# Repository Of Power Supply Pin Outs.



## Lutro0

This will simply be a repository of Pinouts for people that are looking for them for their sleeving job. This will be a community project and everyone is encouraged to add to the repository.

*It is always recommended that you make a pinout of your own, no matter what, before you begin on a sleeving job - remember to make one for all cables. Even if you see your pinout on the list please make one for yourself anyhow as nothing in this thread is iron clad and it should be a prerequisite to sleeving your power supply no matter how many times you have sleeved!

I recommend investing in a PSU Tester and personally use the Thermaltake Dr Power II as it tests the main cables on an ATX PSU including the 8 Pin PCI-E cable which many testers do not include. I'd also suggest a Multi-Meter as a quick way of testing or doubling checking an individual pinout in the case of doubt.*

_Please also note that you are using these pinouts with no guarantee from anyone on the accuracy, but if they are listed most likely they were used on the project they were for._

Another note of caution that some PSU makers will consider your warranty void by removing the wires!

*P.S.*
Please don't steal these pinouts for your own site/use without linking back to this thread as this thread will continue to be added to and pinouts verified. Also the users that contribute to these pinouts needs to get credit for the time they have put into helping out the community - so if you use them they should be thanked on your build log and the thread linked out of courtesy.

*Quick Tip:*
A lot of the power supply units these days have double pins which make the sleeving process harder, you can try to sleeve a double wire and stuff it into the ATX connector but this looks terrible so most sleevers use a double wire technique where they put the split in the back of the case or make a short set of OEM cables and then add a set of extensions to the end for a clean look. Another way is to just shroud the PSU and then use extensions which is the cheapest way to go about it. But for those that want to full OEM sleeve or make a short cable kit you will need to split the cables to make them the cleanest and easiest to use. Therefore this video method was made by Lutro0 Customs a while ago and has been used by sleevers since.

*Lutro0 Customs - Double Wire Video Guide*

*Also:*
If you run into problems or want info on on which methods to use please check out the Sleeving FAQ Located Here : *Frequently Asked Sleeving Questions
*

I will add a nice graph that was made by someone from the MDPC Family for people to use and as people make their own pinouts we can add them by maker and model. The use of the graph is not needed and you make make your own as long as it is easy for others to read.

Here is a graph to use and scan when you have a full pinout to get you started:


Spoiler: Click to Expand







*Power Supply Pinouts*

*ATX Standard Motherboard and Hardware Side Pin Out*

*ATX Standard by Lutro0/Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand





Remember this side will always be the same on the hardware side, the side that changes is on the OEM PSU side.

Here is another great resource for all of the other cables commonly used: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html#sata



*Antec Series*

*Antec HCP-1300 Platinum by kpoeticg*


Spoiler: Click to Expand









*Cooler Master Series*

*Cooler Master Silent Hybrid Pro 850 24pin by Furion92, tictoc and Lutro0*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



Furion92 Version


Lutro0 Version




*Corsair Series*

*Corsair AX1200 by Devious Dog*


Spoiler: Click to Expand













http://www.overclock.net/t/1173304/corsair-ax-custom-power-cables/0_20#post_19936341

Corsair AX1200 Wiring Diagram.pdf 48k .pdf file




*Corsair AX750, AX850 & AX860 by Lutro0*


Spoiler: Click to Expand









*Corsair 1200I, AX860I, and AX760I Full by Deafboy/TheChisel*


Spoiler: Click to Expand














http://www.overclock.net/t/1354660/ax1200i-24-pin-question/0_20

Please note that the AX860I, 1200I, and AX760I all have the same pinout!



*Corsair RM750 by aRkangeLPT*


Spoiler: Click to Expand







*Enermax Series*

*Enermax MaxRevo 1350W 24pin by mundivalur*


Spoiler: Click to Expand







*Enermax MaxRevo EMR1500EWT 1500W by Germanian*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



The following image illustrates the modular sockets layout and its DC rail distribution.

You must connect the 16-pin and 20-pin connectors into respective sockets to enable the 24-pin MB and 8-pin CPU/EPS connectors.



*EVGA Series*

*EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 (also covers 750 G2, 1000 G2, 1000 P2, 1300 G2, 1200 P2 & 1600 G2) by tinus93 and Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand









*EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2 and SuperNOVA 1300 G2 by Thaal Sinestro*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



Note that the PSU has capacitors between pins 1 and 3 (3.3V and Ground), pins 4 and 15 (5V and Ground) and pins 10 and 7 (12V and Ground).

It has been confirmed that the SuperNOVA 1300 G2 also uses the same pin-out.

Note: EVGA issued an *Update Notice* for this PSU to highlight a possible manufacturing defect.





*HighPower Series*

*HighPower Astro GD 500W 80+Gold by Thaal Sinestro*


Spoiler: Click to Expand







*OCZ Series*

*OCZ ZX 850w PSU 24pin by Lunker*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



OCZ ZX 850w PSU side Pinout

MB Side ATX-PSU Side ATX
1(+3.3v)-5(+3.3v)
2(+3.3v)-17(+3.3v)
3(GND)-8(GND)
4(+5v)-14(+5v)
5(GND)-6(GND)
6(+5v)-13(+5v)
7(GND)-10(GND)
8(PG)-21(PG)-grey wire
9(+5VSB)-18(+5VSB)-purple wire
10(+12v)-12(+12v)
11(+12v)-24(+12v)
12(+3.3v)-4(+3.3v)
13(+3.3v)-16(+3.3v)-double wire with brown to 15(psu side)
14(-12v)-19(-12v)-blue wire
15(GND)-23(GND)
16(PS-ON)-20(PS-ON)-green wire
17(GND)-7(GND)
18(GND)-11(GND)
19(GND)-22(GND)
20(Not Used)xxxxxxxxxxxxx15(brown single wire connected with orange wire to 13 on MB side)
21(+5v)-3(+5v)
22(+5v)-2(+5v)
23(+5v)-1(+5v)
24(GND)-9(GND)

Other cables are still needed for this pinout



*SeaSonic Series*

*Notes from Big Elf on SeaSonic Units*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



Fanless FL1 - X-400, X-460
Platinum Series, Fanless FL2 - P-400, P-460, P-520
X-Series KM1 - X-650, X-750
X-Series KM2 - X-560, X-660, X-760, X-850
X-Series KM3 - X-650, X-750, X-850
X-Series XM - X-1050, X-1250
Platinum Series XP1 - P-860, P-1000, P-1200
Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860
Platinum Series XP3 - P-1200

These are all likely to apply to future releases of SeaSonic PSUs until further notice and can easily be verified by inspecting the supplied cables in the case of those supplied with coloured cables or checking with a multi-meter for the all black cables supplied with some of the later revisions.

You should always double check these cables before use as incorrect pin-outs will cause component destruction. As I mention Ad nauseum I recommend the Thermaltake Dr Power II which will check every cable on an ATX PSU.

SeaSonic uses a standard method of pin-outs for all their current PSUs for the following modular connectors used at the PSU socket:

6 Pin Auxiliary Connector - used for 4 Pin Molex/Auxiliary Connectors and SATA Power Connectors
In the case of the 4 Pin Molex/Auxiliary Connector pin-out no. 4 (3.3V) is not used.

8 Pin Connector - Used for CPU/EPS Connectors and PCI-E Connectors. Uses 12V and Ground Connectors only.

12 Pin Connectors - Used mainly for PCI-E Connectors but also for additional 8 Pin CPU/EPS Cables (only 4 x 12V and 4 x Ground pin-outs are populated). Uses 12V and Ground Connectors only. Where there are insufficient Ground connections e.g. for 2 x 8 Pin PCI-E Connectors it is necessary to splice Ground cables together to make up enough wires to connect to the 8 Pin PCI-E Connector.

Because the connectors at the component end i.e. EPS/CPU/PCI-E/Molex/Auxiliary/SATA are all standard it should be easy to refer to the standard pin-outs for each of these connectors to correctly wire them up.




*SeaSonic Fanless FL1 - X-400, X-460 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.




*SeaSonic Platinum Series, Fanless FL2 - P-400, P-460, P-520 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.




*SeaSonic X-Series KM1 - X-650, X-750 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.




*SeaSonic X-Series KM2 - X-560, X-660, X-760, X-850 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.




*SeaSonic X-Series KM3 - X-650, X-750, X-850 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.




*SeaSonic X-Series XM - X-1050, X-1250 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.



Alternative Pinout

The dual Ground wires shown on Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector are optional. If you redo Pin 24 as a single Ground wire then leave Pin 7 on the 18 Pin Connector unused and move Pin 3 from the 24 Pin connector to Pin 6 on the 18 Pin Connector to match the latest revision. It's beneficial to leave Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector as a single wire to avoid splitting dual wires between the 18 pin and the 10 pin connector. If you find this confusing let me know and I'll do an additional image.





*SeaSonic Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires."




*SeaSonic X750 ATX Pinout 16-10Pin to 24Pin by Laine Dalí D'artagnan*


Spoiler: Click to Expand





Other cables are still needed for this pinout



*SeaSonic Platinum 1000 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.


















http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/20_20#post_20680274



*SeaSonic XP3 Series - Platinum 1200 by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires. *Note:* The pin-outs on the 8 Pin Connectors are the opposite way round to all previous SeaSonic PSUs.





*Silverstone Series*

*SilverStone ST45SF-G 450W (and other models) by WISK*


Spoiler: Click to Expand





This will cover other models, list coming soon.



*SilverStone ST65F-G 650W by Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



A note from the Elf "As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.



Note the dual wire on Pinout 21. This has an additional wire (looks like AWG20 or 22) crimped onto the same pin as the main wire.

Also note the dual wire crimped onto Pin 13 (3.3V) at the Motherboard end of the connection which goes to Pin 13 and also Pin 20 on the PSU end of the connection. This is a sense wire which is used to fine tune voltages at load.





*Ultra Series*

*Ultra X4 750W 24Pin by Frank N. Stein*


Spoiler: Click to Expand





http://www.4shared.com/office/6qV20HdK/UltraX4_750W_24-Pin.html

Other cables are still needed for this pinout



*XFX XTR Series*

*XFX XTR 550W 24Pin by Adict and Big Elf*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



The pin-out for the XFX XTR 550W PSU has been *confirmed* as being the same as the SeaSonic KM2 series. You're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.


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## adi518

Sweet thread and highly needed! thanks Mike!


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## Lutro0

New Pinout Added for Corsair 1200I By Deafboy


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## Lutro0

Thread has been cleaned up and cautionary notes added.


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## xD3aDPooLx

I will get the NZXT HALE 90v2 Series up for you too Mike. Should have told me a while ago about this


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## kgtuning

excellent pinout for the 1200I


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xD3aDPooLx*
> 
> I will get the NZXT HALE 90v2 Series up for you too Mike. Should have told me a while ago about this


Just started it today, it was sparked by the idea of a few different sites building modding repositories. I know this subforum to be full of some of the most active and passionate sleevers from around the world so it just dawned on me for this to be an awesome place for it to be constantly updated and used. I take no credit in the idea - i just carried it out and made it easy for people to add more of them.

But it would be awesome to have official pinouts from NZXT for their psus.


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> excellent pinout for the 1200I


Yes some people take allot of work in making these and deserve the rep for making them if you use them.

-edit- Please excuse the double posts, refreshing a ton and missing things lol


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## Apocalypse Maow

This is good stuff! Thanks for getting it all in one place!


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalypse Maow*
> 
> This is good stuff! Thanks for getting it all in one place!


Working on getting it stickied as well as the Pin and Connector Thread (http://www.overclock.net/t/1327420/pc-crimping-part-numbers/0_20)which is a huge source of knowledge itself.

-edit- Looks like they are stickied!


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> *SilverStone ST45SF-G 450W 24pin by Lutro0*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand


Lol Mike. Pretty sure I drew that diagram









I can add the pinouts for the Molex/Sata, EPS and PCIe if you like, but the original files are on my work PC.


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Lol Mike. Pretty sure I drew that diagram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can add the pinouts for the Molex/Sata, EPS and PCIe if you like, but the original files are on my work PC.


Yes please do, I just looked it up online so all credit will goto you bud, I think that diagram covers allot of them.


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## WiSK

Yeah the pinout for the SFX is pretty simple for the EPS and PCIe, but the Sata/Molex is useful and the detail about the 3.3V sense wire on the ATX24 is interesting in case anyone wants to do a double wire there.


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## mark_thaddeus

Does the HX series for Corsair have the same layout as the AX?


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Yes please do,


There we go: Silverstone ST45SF-G pinout


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> There we go: Silverstone ST45SF-G pinout


WISK how many models use this pin out?


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> WISK how many models use this pin out?


I think all Striders, but since I only own SFX ones I can't confirm. Do you want me to also make a more general version of that diagram?


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I think all Striders, but since I only own SFX ones I can't confirm. Do you want me to also make a more general version of that diagram?


It would be easier for the complete route of the cables for new sleevers. And I know allot of them use the same pin out. It would be nice to know which ones do so people can buy the right one based on the easy pinout.


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## LeandroJVarini

Anyone know the best way to put sleeving on ocz zx 1250w? this source has its pin 24 out of the psu very strange!


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> Anyone know the best way to put sleeving on ocz zx 1250w? this source has its pin 24 out of the psu very strange!


I want to say that the zx series is the same, but you would need to double check. I also believe they have lots of caps which need to be removed. Also you will have to follow the double wire guide for the double wires.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXaKt-tiVI0&feature=player_embedded


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## iBored

Hi, just to let you know, the pinouts posted for the ax1200i doesn't work on my ax760i.
I've added the pinouts I got from the stock cable. =) will be adding the 8-pin soon


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## gdubc

^that's weird. The corsair pre sleeved kits are all the same for the axi series 24 pin.
I think you maybe labeled the 24 pin numbers incorrectly. They should be 1-24. If you re-label based off 1-24, then the pinout is the same. The 13 pin on the mb side is shared to the 13 and the 20 slot on the psu end. And the 20 pin is empty on mb end.


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## Big Elf

Not especially professional but the pinouts for the Seasonic Platinum 1000 24 Pin



And the PSU Rear Connectors


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## Lutro0

I will give my own a look and see if I can verify those and BE thanks as always I will get it added asap.


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## LeandroJVarini

I have an idea already have some time, I thought I'd make an adapter type, where u connect the PSU one end using the default font and the other end using standard 24 pin motherboard, so you can use an extender with cables your taste without having problem cables crossing from one side to the other, since it has some PSU custom of gathering all cables 12v, 5v, 3.3v, among others in a location on the connector coming out of the PSU being only divided when it comes the connector that goes into the motherboard, do not know if I expressed it well, but some images will speak for themselves!

Model where all cables are intersecting as in my source ocz 1250w


Model with the cables crossing but using a cover to cover and give a better appearance.


What do you think?


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## Big Elf

Like this?


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## LeandroJVarini

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Like this?


It's really my idea but would not use cables of this size and with less possible for sleeving would not be so apparent in the case


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## street1030

Does anyone have the pin layout for the OCZ ZT 650W PSU? Forgot to make a diagram before starting my first sleeve job :O


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## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> It's really my idea but would not use cables of this size and with less possible for sleeving would not be so apparent in the case


The cables in the above image are 140mm in length. The smallest sleeved cables you can actually use are about 90-100mm, any smaller than that and they are impossible to fit into the housings.


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The cables in the above image are 140mm in length. The smallest sleeved cables you can actually use are about 90-100mm, any smaller than that and they are impossible to fit into the housings.


I think he means the "cables adapted" section would not be sleeved, but the whole block be covered by some material to improve the appearance e.g. tape, shrink, hot glue, etc.

I would guess personally that the minimum length of such an adapter is 55mm: 20mm for each connector and maybe 15mm in the middle to swap wires around.


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## gdubc

You could get the same effect with a typical psu cover. Just hide the psu and all wires under a false bottom.


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## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> You could get the same effect with a typical ps3 cover. Just hide the ps3 and all wires under a false bottom.


You can sure use a shroud but some people want to sleeve everything.

Its great to see people discuss these methods as it is hardly talked about and its great to get this info out to everyone.

The main thing I need to know if if these pin outs work for other models as I know they resuse the same pinout many times. We just need to try to make sure the info is accurate, so everyone should make their own pinout anyhow regardless if there is one supplied.

I have also added the new one thanks BE


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## Lutro0

also if any of you own these psus and you see in the notes that we need the other cables for it please take the time to finish the psu for others, all credit and rep will go to who ever put in the time to make any of these.


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## barracks510

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Not especially professional but the pinouts for the Seasonic Platinum 1000 24 Pin
> 
> 
> 
> And the PSU Rear Connectors


I have double checked that this works with the Seasonic P-1000, although the number of double wires on the stock cable makes it so much more annoying.


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## Big Elf

I've been going through my notebooks and copying them to my PC so here's a semi-modular Corsair HX850 PSU Rear Connections


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## Big Elf

Corsair HX620 semi-modular PSU rear connections:


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## themraw

So I messed up. I think I got my pin out wrong on my psu's proprietary side. I have an XFX 850w model# P1-850B-BEFX. Would the seasonic graphs work since xfx is just rebranded seasonic's? The Seasonic 1000W has double wires in the same location as mine , not sure if that's enough similarity to compare to. Thanks


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## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *themraw*
> 
> So I messed up. I think I got my pin out wrong on my psu's proprietary side. I have an XFX 850w model# P1-850B-BEFX. Would the seasonic graphs work since xfx is just rebranded seasonic's? The Seasonic 1000W has double wires in the same location as mine , not sure if that's enough similarity to compare to. Thanks


I'd try it but only on the proviso that you buy one of these *Thermaltake Dr Power II* and test the cables before use. That particular PSU tester will test every cable on your XFX.

The rear of the XFX looks like the SeaSonic 860W V2.

Edit: The PCI-E connectors on your PSU are different to those on the SeaSonic P1000 so you should use a multimeter to work out which pinout is which.


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## LeandroJVarini

It might seem crazy but someone already used rigid wire in PSU? said substiuindo flexible wires? sounds crazy but if they put sleeving them stretch and mold inside the case give a visually insane!


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## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LeandroJVarini*
> 
> It might seem crazy but someone already used rigid wire in PSU? said substiuindo flexible wires? sounds crazy but if they put sleeving them stretch and mold inside the case give a visually insane!


You will break your crimper eventually if you use solid wire. Also, you don't need solid wire to hold a shape. If you stretch plastic sleeving properly, then it also holds its shape.


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## Big Elf

I doubt if anyone would be using a BeQuiet Dark Power Pro P7 650W from around 2008 but here it is anyway:



I've no idea why the '6 Pin EPS' Connector exists and has 3.3V pinouts.


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## Raikkok

Lutro0 could you confirm if

AX 750/AX 850 HAS THE SAME PINOUT OF AX 860?

the ax860 24-pin cable has 10+18 in one side and in the other one the 24.

thanks so much


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## aiwa501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raikkok*
> 
> Lutro0 could you confirm if
> 
> AX 750/AX 850 HAS THE SAME PINOUT OF AX 860?
> 
> the ax860 24-pin cable has 10+18 in one side and in the other one the 24.
> 
> thanks so much


No they do not. I have the AX860 and I checked the 750/850 diagram with what I have on my AX860 24pin cable and they do not match. I was hoping they did so that I could connect the two misplaced cables on my 24pin cable. Anyone have a diagram for the AX760/860?


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## sTudo

Does anyone know if the AX760/AX760i uses the same pin layout as the Seasonic XP-760 seeing as the AX760 is a rebrand of the Seasonic?


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## aRkangeLPT

Hey guys,

I want to make cables for this PSU, but in not sure if this is the same as the Seasonic X series, its looks very similar, and very similar to the AX series from corsair too.

The psu is this XFX Pro 750W Black Edition


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## crazysurfanz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I want to make cables for this PSU, but in not sure if this is the same as the Seasonic X series, its looks very similar, and very similar to the AX series from corsair too.
> 
> The psu is this XFX Pro 750W Black Edition
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pic


The back of that looks identical to the Seasonic Platinum 760W I have... apart from a few cosmetics... I don't have a pinout for that though, so not sure that it helps much


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## aRkangeLPT

Yes it looks very similar, i have one X760 too, but the pinout its diferent.


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## Big Elf

It also looks very similar to the back of the SeaSonic P1000 and it is made by them.

I'd recommend that anyone who's thinking of sleeving their PSU also consider spending a few pounds/dollars on a multimeter and learn how to use it. It can save a lot of hassle and time especially if combined with a PSU Tester.


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## kpoeticg

I pretty much spent all day day yesterday writing out the pinout for every cable on my Antec HCP-1300 Platinum, basically removing the pins and using a multimeter to test for continuity. I'd happily post a pinout so other people can have it, but i have like 4 pages written. What's the best way to post one? Should i post the pinout of the PSU or the cables?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It also looks very similar to the back of the SeaSonic P1000 and it is made by them.
> 
> I've emailed the CEO of SeaSonic I contact occasionally asking if he could arrange the supply of the pinouts for all the fully modular PSUs. He's a bit reluctant to do it as it can badly affect them in respect of RMAs when people don't put them back together correctly. However I might have another avenue open to me so will also try that.
> 
> I'd recommend that anyone who's thinking of sleeving their PSU also consider spending a few pounds/dollars on a multimeter and learn how to use it. It can save a lot of hassle and time especially if combined with a PSU Tester.


What PSU tester do you recommend? I've been thinking of getting one to help me convert an old PSU into a Bench/Breadboard PSU


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## Big Elf

My personal view is that posting the pinout of the cable is the best for the 24 Pin as there can be quite a few ways of connecting it at the PSU end even though the 24 pin front end is standard. Either way for the rest of the cables.


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## kpoeticg

Thanx. What program is it easy to make the pinout in? Also what PSU Tester do you recommend? I've been planning on ordering one....

I'm kind of a noob when it comes to Photoshop/Office/etc....

I've been planning on learning SketchUp, but haven't spent much time in it yet


----------



## Big Elf

I'm familiar with Excel so do it in that. I then go to print preview, take a screenshot, paste it into an image editing program then trim it and finally upload it. There will be an easier way than that.

This is what I end up with:



If you have MS Office I can send you a blank template for that.

I use and recommend the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* (I wish I was on commission for it) as it will test every cable on the current ATX spec including the 8 pin PCI-E cable


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx brotha. I'll take your advice on Excel and the TT Dr Power II. I'd appreciate that template too


----------



## Big Elf

Send me a pm with your email address and I'll send it on to you.


----------



## kpoeticg

PM sent. Thanx again. I should have that pinout posted within the next few hours =)


----------



## Lutro0

I have some updating to do, I will get the new ones added to the op! Thanks guys.


----------



## kpoeticg

One wire I'm particularly worried about is pin 11 has 3 12v 22AWG wires in it. Can anybody shed some light on if it's a good idea to splice that into 1? I have some of the 16 AWG from Lutro0's shop so I'm able to step it down a guage if that's enough....


----------



## kpoeticg

Edit


----------



## kpoeticg

Damn, wish I could make the resolution look better than that. I'm still gonna do a rearview of the PSU. Just figured I'd up that since it's done

Thanx for your help Big Elf!!

If any1 notices anything that should be formatted different or how i can make the image sharper let me know. I couldn't figure out how to get a full snapshot in Excel so I had to save to PDF and take a snapshot there....


----------



## Big Elf

If you email it to me I'll do it in higher resolution. There's no need to show the wire gauge as 18AWG or 24/0.2 wire is considered adequate.


----------



## kpoeticg

Well my reason for showing that is cuz there's 5 different guages used on that pinout. Just helps people get a better idea. Especially since there's a triple 22AWG crimp, and a bunch of dbl crimps. The HCP-1300 definitely isn't a recommended PSU if you're a form > function person. But it's incredible as far as quality, that's why i went with it. Just figured adding the number of wires and the sizes might help people like me. I didn't create that part for the 16's and 18's on there. It's for the 20's, 22's, and 24's. Does that make sense?

I emailed you the pdf, jpg, and xlsx cuz i didn't know which was easier to sharpen up

Also, if you could tell me what you did to make it sharper, it'll help me with PSU pinout I'm gonna do for it

Thanx Big Elf for fixing this for me
Here's the pinout again with a better image


----------



## kpoeticg

Big Elf, I just finished making the template for my Rear PSU Pinout. Would you mind sharpening it up for me after I fill it in? Either later tonight or tomorrow...


----------



## Big Elf

No problem, it's just after 2am here so will be in a few hours.


----------



## kpoeticg

Thanx. I'll just email it to you when I'm done with it and PM you after I email it. Just hit me back whenever you get a chance to do it =)


----------



## kpoeticg

I figured it out. Just had to Print Screen =). Don't know why saving to PDF makes the image so crappy


----------



## Big Elf

I'm in the process of preparing the pin-outs for the 24 pin for all current modular SeaSonic PSUs. When I've done that I'll try and do the rest of the pin-outs for each PSU. If anyone is desperate for a particular one let me know and I'll do it as a priority.

Edit: I was going to do separate pin-out for all the other connectors on the SeaSonic PSUs. However getting hold of images of the layouts on the back of each to match the documented pin-outs I have will take forever so instead I've done the following which applies to:

Fanless FL1 - X-400, X-460
Platinum Series, Fanless FL2 - P-400, P-460, P-520
X-Series KM1 - X-650, X-750
X-Series KM2 - X-560, X-660, X-760, X-850
X-Series KM3 - X-650, X-750, X-850
X-Series XM - X-1050, X-1250
Platinum Series XP1 - P-860, P-1000, P-1200
Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860

These are all likely to apply to future releases of SeaSonic PSUs until further notice and can easily be verified by inspecting the supplied cables in the case of those supplied with coloured cables or checking with a multi-meter for the all black cables supplied with some of the later revisions.

You should always double check these cables before use as incorrect pin-outs will cause component destruction. As I mention Ad nauseum I recommend the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* which will check every cable on an ATX PSU.

SeaSonic uses a standard method of pin-outs for all their current PSUs for the following modular connectors used at the PSU socket:

6 Pin Auxiliary Connector - used for 4 Pin Molex/Auxiliary Connectors and SATA Power Connectors
In the case of the 4 Pin Molex/Auxiliary Connector pin-out no. 4 (3.3V) is not used.

8 Pin Connector - Used for CPU/EPS Connectors and PCI-E Connectors. Uses 12V and Ground Connectors only.

12 Pin Connectors - Used mainly for PCI-E Connectors but also for additional 8 Pin CPU/EPS Cables (only 4 x 12V and 4 x Ground pin-outs are populated). Uses 12V and Ground Connectors only. Where there are insufficient Ground connections e.g. for 2 x 8 Pin PCI-E Connectors it is necessary to splice Ground cables together to make up enough wires to connect to the 8 Pin PCI-E Connector.

Because the connectors at the component end i.e. EPS/CPU/PCI-E/Molex/Auxiliary/SATA are all standard it should be easy to refer to the standard pin-outs for each of these connectors to correctly wire them up.


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic Fanless FL1 - X-400, X-460*

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic Platinum Series, Fanless FL2 - P-400, P-460, P-520*

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic X-Series KM1 - X-650, X-750*

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.


----------



## WiSK

Helpful! +rep

Reminds me I promised to do pinouts for the Strider series... will get around to it one day


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic X-Series KM2 - X-560, X-660, X-760, X-850*

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic X-Series KM3 - X-650, X-750, X-850*

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic X-Series XM - X-1050, X-1250*

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.

Note: These PSUs have 2 alternative pin-outs. The one shown is for the original release. However a further revision was made without changing the revision number.

The dual Ground wires shown on Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector are optional. If you redo Pin 24 as a single Ground wire then leave Pin 7 on the 18 Pin Connector unused and move Pin 3 from the 24 Pin connector to Pin 6 on the 18 Pin Connector to match the latest revision. It's beneficial to leave Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector as a single wire to avoid splitting dual wires between the 18 pin and the 10 pin connector. If you find this confusing let me know and I'll do an additional image.


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic Platinum Series XP1 - P-860, P-1000*

The pin-outs for the Platinum P-1000 are already listed but note that the pin-outs are the same for the Platinum P-860.


----------



## Big Elf

*SeaSonic Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860*

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.


----------



## Lutro0

OP Updated - let me know if I missed anything.


----------



## kpoeticg

Dunno if it's needed as much, but i posted a rear PSU pinout like 4 posts under the 24 Pin for the HCP-1300.


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Dunno if it's needed as much, but i posted a rear PSU pinout like 4 posts under the 24 Pin for the HCP-1300.


Added!


----------



## kpoeticg




----------



## lemniscate

guys, since Corsair sells the same sleeved cable packs for AX and AXi series PSU (except 24 pin), does that mean my AX860 PSU use the same pinout as AX760i/860i/1200i in the first page for the pcie, cpu, and peripheral cables?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lemniscate*
> 
> guys, since Corsair sells the same sleeved cable packs for AX and AXi series PSU (except 24 pin), does that mean my AX860 PSU use the same pinout as AX760i/860i/1200i in the first page for the pcie, cpu, and peripheral cables?


Easy way to check is with a multi-meter.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Easy way to check is with a multi-meter.


actually, is it possible to just use multi-meter to test each pin on the component side (mb, gpu, etc.), which pins are connected to it on the psu side? (it's been years since I last used a multimeter, but I think there's one mode that tells you if two points are connected or not. cmiiw)

that way I can make a pinout map without cutting the sleeving.


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, although you can put the probes in the pins in the back of the PSU. If you put the black probe into a pin and the red probe into another then using the PCI-E or CPU/EPS Connectors:

If it shows 0 you have identified 2 Ground or 2 12V connections
If it shows -12V you have the black probe in the 12V connection and the red probe in the ground connection
If it shows 12V you have correctly identified a 12V connection and a ground connection.

You'll need to jump start the PSU in order to use the multi-meter.


----------



## lemniscate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Yes, although you can put the probes in the pins in the back of the PSU. If you put the black probe into a pin and the red probe into another then using the PCI-E or CPU/EPS Connectors:
> 
> If it shows 0 you have identified 2 Ground or 2 12V connections
> If it shows -12V you have the black probe in the 12V connection and the red probe in the ground connection
> If it shows 12V you have correctly identified a 12V connection and a ground connection.
> 
> You'll need to jump start the PSU in order to use the multi-meter.


thanks. +rep.









I think I'm going to start making custom fan cables (splitters) and SATA power cables. they seem to contribute the most mess to my case. thanks for the help..


----------



## davcc22

i have the pin out for the silverstone st40f-es tohu to the st50f-es will post vit later to night when its cooler


----------



## Lutro0

Does anyone have an XFX pro 1000w I think its a model of seasonic but I wanted to double check.

I also need an Enermax MaxRevo 1350W SLI PSU pin out.

Thanks guys.


----------



## Big Elf

All current XFX PSUs are made by SeaSonic and the *RealHardTechX* database is useful for checking out who makes what. It looks like the XFX is a limited edition version of the SeaSonic P1000.


----------



## Big Elf

This should confirm WiSKs pinouts for the SilverStone ST45SF-G 450W. This is for the *Silverstone SST-ST65F-G 650W*:

As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.

Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.



Note the dual wire on Pinout 21. This has an additional wire (looks like AWG20 or 22) crimped onto the same pin as the main wire.

Also note the dual wire crimped onto Pin 13 (3.3V) at the Motherboard end of the connection which goes to Pin 13 and also Pin 20 on the PSU end of the connection. This is a sense wire which is used to fine tune voltages at load.


----------



## WiSK

Nice one mate


----------



## cdnGhost

Does anyone have the Corsair AX760 pinout for the 24pin to 18pin & 10pin connectors


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnGhost*
> 
> Does anyone have the Corsair AX760 pinout for the 24pin to 18pin & 10pin connectors


If you have the PSU compare it to the pin-out for the *SeaSonic X-Series KM2 - X-560, X-660, X-760, X-850*


----------



## JackNaylorPE

BigE ....

Wish I had found this thread earlier ..... over the weekend I sat down w/ my meter, my new set of helping hands ..... (love this bugger BTW, my old version from Exacto kept disassembling itself ..... "No Disassemble No. 5 !) .....

http://www.amazon.com/Helping-Hand-Magnifier-Solder-Holder/dp/B00B88B67E/ref=pd_sbs_t_20

and traced out the connectors for the Seasonic X-1250..... of course tracing the wire connectivity, I'm looking inside the plug end rather than the back end so everything I have is a mirror image of yours.

I did notice that your diagram has 5 wires doubled up and I only have 4. I saw ya note about pinout 24 and I just didn't get where ya were going with that .... is this a factory change in recent times or are you suggesting the switch to make sleeve job easier. Here's the PDF "for Schlitz and Giggles" ... dunno why AutoCAD to PDF comes out so crappy.

Seasonic- 24pin-18-10pin.pdf 29k .pdf file


Oh and BTW, if you are wondering where the missing cables are, it seems the conversion process removed the black edge lines from my white cables....and no I don't expect all the sleeve colors to work out at the PSU end .... I just didn't wanna do all the drawing editing


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> ...I saw ya note about pinout 24 and I just didn't get where ya were going with that .... is this a factory change in recent times or are you suggesting the switch to make sleeve job easier...


SeaSonic originally did the pin-outs with the extra Ground wire for this and the first release of the Platinum 1000. A short time later and supposedly to rationalise their pin-out structure they removed it. It doesn't affect performance either way (apparently) and no '_Short Circuit_'

I got into the habit of doing my pin-outs looking into the back of the connector as it helped me visualise the connectors on the PSU itself.

I think it's beneficial to note your own pin-outs as it helps you to learn where they are and gives a bit more confidence. Having them listed here is a backup in case it somehow goes wrong.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Guys, I really need the pin out for an EVGA SUPERNOVA 1000 G2 PSU! Please, help me out!


----------



## kpoeticg

Isn't the Supernova G2 a rebrand of the SuperFlower Leadex Gold? You might have better luck searching for that. Dbl check that though cuz i'm not 100% positive.


----------



## Lutro0

Hey guys sorry about the lack of updating, LC has been super busy. I will be looking into giving over the thread to someone with some more time to update as there is always more work that needs to be done on this thread and it is super invaluable.


----------



## Lutro0

As I said before I have had way too much on my plate, so I am giving ownership of this thread over to Big Elf - He is very reputable in this section of the forum and I trust him and his decisions. More so he has been helping this thread in a big way anyhow.

Congrats BE!


----------



## Big Elf

Gulp!

My first act has been to update some of the SeaSonic pin-out diagrams which although had the correct pin-out had the wrong description. All have been fixed.


----------



## WiSK

Good luck Big Elf


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Good luck Big Elf


Thank you. I nominated you for the job


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Good luck Big Elf


Haha, you were another that I was thinking for the job as well. Both of you have done a huge ammount of work for this section and everyone thanks you!


----------



## WiSK

Awesome haha









Better for the community that Big Elf got the job. I would have just renamed the thread "Repository of Pin Outs for the Silverstone Strider Series" and called it a day


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Thanks, your right. I'll try that. Im getting another 24 pin from EVGA so I'll make a diagram myself if I cant find it.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Anyone have a suggested non-ebay source for wire..... went to HomeDepot today and found some 16AWG that was the exact same diameter as what's on my Seasonic X-1250 (2.54 mm) which is just outside the spec for the MDPC tool ..... which I was gonna ignore ..... but also to big for the 150 gold plated connectors I have. In searching around, looking for spools for organizational reasons but not 100-200' spools for sources.

I see a lot of the NTE stuff....which also come in nice little racks

If my math and resources are correct .....

18AWG - 16 strand wire is 1.024 mm thick....300 volt is 1/64th inch insulation for 1.82 mm thickness
18AWG - 16 strand wire is 1.024 mm thick....600 volt is 1/32nd inch insulation for 2.62 mm thickness

*300V STRANDED WIRE (WH SERIES) - 90C*
GAUGES: 26-24-22-20-18
INSULATION: P.V.C
COLORS: Black, Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet, Gray, White
SPOOLS: 25 and 100 feet
Tinned plated copper conductor: 22/24/26 is 7 strand, 20 is 10 strand, 18 is 16 strand
Insulation thickness = 1/64"
UL Style 1007
CSA TR-64/1569
Passes UL VW-1.S vertical flame test
OSHA acceptable
APPLICATIONS:
Internal wiring of electrical and electronic equipment, Internal wiring of panels, meters, computers, business machines, appliances & control panels
Point to point wiring where 300V required
6 Amps

*600V STRANDED WIRE (WH6 SERIES) - 105C*
GAUGES: 18-16-14-12-10
INSULATION: P.V.C
COLORS: Black, Brown, Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Violet, Gray, White
SPOOLS: 25 and 100 feet
Tinned plated copper conductor: 18 is 16 strand, 16 is 26 strand, 14 is 41 strand, 12 is 65 strand, 10 is 105 strand
UL Style 1015
CSA type TEW
Insulation thickness = 1/32"
UL VW-1.S Vertical Flame Test
OSHA acceptable
APPLICATIONS: Internal wiring of electrical, electronic equipment and machinery, Internal wiring of panels and meters, Point to point wiring where 600V required
15 Amp max

So if an eight-pin connector uses three +12 V wires to carry up to 150 W .... then 150 / (3 x 12v) = 4.17 amps, we should be just fine with the 300V stuff

Amazon has most colors for $3.75 for a 25' roll .... and $5 shipping.

$5.97 a 25' roll here
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/productGroupDetails.jsp?N=201997+101007+422+811258634+810014719+810079356&pgCatId=201997&pgAttrId=101007&No=0&getResults=true&appliedparametrics=true&locale=en_US&divisionLocale=en_US&catalogId=&skipManufacturer=false&skipParametricAttributeId=100000&prevNValues=201997+101007+422+811258634+810014719+810049281&mm=1000496||,&filtersHidden=false&appliedHidden=false&autoApply=false&originalQueryURL=%2Fjsp%2Fsearch%2Fbrowse.jsp%3FN%3D201997%2B101007%26locale%3Den_US%26skipParametricAttributeId%3D100000

$6.40 a roll here
http://www.ntepartsdirect.com/ENG/PRODUCTLIST/HOOK_UP_WIRE_300_VOLT_STRANDED_18AWG

If anybody has better sources, please advise .... I'll delete these from the post so no one wastes time on it


----------



## kpoeticg

Lutro sells a die for the MDPC crimper to allow you to crimp 4-Pin Molex Terminals & 16AWG. He also sells 16AWG that's a great diameter for sleeving with. Lutro0-Customs.com


----------



## JackNaylorPE

I'm aware of that .... I noted that it was just outside the spec for the MDPC tool ..... which I was gonna ignore ..... but as I said its also to big *" for the 150 gold plated connectors I have"* .... So ....

1. My tool is too small tho Nils said don't worry about it
2. My 150 pins that i already have are too small for the 16 gauge wire
3. My 300 feet of sleeving at 3mm is a bit tight w/ the 16 gauge

Tossing all that to buy new everything is not a way I wanna go just now.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

No luck with the SuperFlower Leadex Gold pinout search.


----------



## WiSK

Jack, for MDPC-X sleeve I find stranded 18 AWG with 2.2mm or 2.3mm total outer diameter to be ideal. Flexible PVC, the more strands the better but it's not important. Because it's only going to carry 12V a short distance and it's not for long-distance power transmission, then the max voltage and max temperature are rather irrelevant.

The reason PSU manufacturers put 16 AWG in is more for extreme use than normal use. Think heavy CPU overclock, multiple GPUs etc.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> I'm aware of that .... I noted that it was just outside the spec for the MDPC tool ..... which I was gonna ignore ..... but as I said its also to big *" for the 150 gold plated connectors I have"* .... So ....
> 
> 1. My tool is too small tho Nils said don't worry about it
> 2. My 150 pins that i already have are too small for the 16 gauge wire
> 3. My 300 feet of sleeving at 3mm is a bit tight w/ the 16 gauge
> 
> Tossing all that to buy new everything is not a way I wanna go just now.


I wasn't telling you to throw away anything. Just lettin you know that Lutro sells thin diameter 16AWG for your specific situation, and also a Die for like $12 bux that's lets your crimper work on bigger pins/wire. I didn't say to throw away your pins or sleeving.


----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> Does anyone have an XFX pro 1000w I think its a model of seasonic but I wanted to double check.
> 
> I also need an Enermax MaxRevo 1350W SLI PSU pin out.
> 
> Thanks guys.


I can fix that one ,see if i wont find time to morrow


----------



## Lutro0

Does anyone have the pinout for a cooler master Hybrid Pro 24pin. Just need the 24pin.


----------



## Big Elf

*Furion92* posted this for a Cooler Master Silent Hybrid Pro 850.



Furion92 verified the pin-outs and supplied an updated version.


----------



## tictoc

Edit - Big Elf got it, and here's the link to the user manual: Hybrid Pro User Manual


----------



## Big Elf

tictoc - No, leave your link in. I'll be adding the images from both to the front page.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *e"WiSK"*
> 
> Jack, for MDPC-X sleeve I find stranded 18 AWG with 2.2mm or 2.3mm total outer diameter to be ideal. Flexible PVC, the more strands the better but it's not important. Because it's only going to carry 12V a short distance and it's not for long-distance power transmission, then the max voltage and max temperature are rather irrelevant.
> 
> The reason PSU manufacturers put 16 AWG in is more for extreme use than normal use. Think heavy CPU overclock, multiple GPUs etc.


Yeah, I don't have MDPC sleeving or crimp connectors big enough to handle stuff above 2.5mm. Getting the 3mm sleeve on the 2.57 cable from home depot was a bit laborious..... which is why I was looking at the 1.82 stuff which Nils recommended......I have some in my hobby kit that i used to use to rewire RC card for my son and that worked well. BTW, that's a weird wire at 2.2 - 2.3 .... not in the standard thickness table, would like to learn more about it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> I wasn't telling you to throw away anything. Just lettin you know that Lutro sells thin diameter 16AWG for your specific situation, and also a Die for like $12 bux that's lets your crimper work on bigger pins/wire. I didn't say to throw away your pins or sleeving.


I understood what you said.... it's just not a viable option given the circumstances. I'm trying to find a wire that 1) works with my stock of 150 crimp connectors, 2) my 300+feet of sleeve 3) the crimping tool I already have 4) is available in a variety (8+) of colors and 5) maintains 6 amp rating (usually means 1/64th inch insulation thickness) . Lutro0's site was one of the first places I looked before posting and while, like everything else on his site, the wire has some very nice features, it just wasn't a match for my requirements.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> BTW, that's a weird wire at 2.2 - 2.3 .... not in the standard thickness table, would like to learn more about it..


It's this http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/604520/FLY-automotive-cableBlack-Sold-per-metre-Leoni
Is European size closer to gauge 18 _and a half_, but I've tested most of my cabling and nothing is pulling more than 3 amps that I can discover.
I tried to find it on the US Leoni site but don't see it there.


----------



## mundivalur

Here is the Enermax Revo 1350W and my great paint design


----------



## Big Elf

New pin-outs added for Enermax MaxRevo 1350W and Cooler Master Silent Hybrid Pro 850.

I'm aware that something has gone wrong with the formatting but, with my dodgy eyesight, I'm having a problem tracking it down. The information for the PSUs is all there (I think) and I'll fix it over the weekend.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It's this http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/604520/FLY-automotive-cableBlack-Sold-per-metre-Leoni
> Is European size closer to gauge 18 _and a half_, but I've tested most of my cabling and nothing is pulling more than 3 amps that I can discover.
> I tried to find it on the US Leoni site but don't see it there.


Much thx.... I been educated today









This Euro / US availability / unavailability is getting annoying . Off topic but I been trying to get 10/12 mm acrylic in > 19" lengths and it doesn't exist here anymore.....5 pound purchase is 40 pounds shipping from your side of the pond.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JackNaylorPE*
> 
> This Euro / US availability / unavailability is getting annoying .... 5 pound purchase is 40 pounds shipping from your side of the pond.


I think the internet has spoiled us. Quick communication over the internet in the last 20 years has advanced fast, but the global market that has emerged is still limited by relatively high cost of moving goods around. Big brands with a good foothold in logistics can offer products easily worldwide - economies of scale. But transport costs for niche products in small quantities will be borne largely by the consumer. It may be a few decades yet before the global market truly consolidates.

40 pound shipping however is unnecessary. Many e-tailers do not realise that sending goods as an insured registered padded letter, instead of a parcel, can be a much cheaper albeit slower way of shipping small goods. Not sure that method would help with your acrylic tubes though. You might try buying 1/2" OD tube locally and sanding it down to 12mm. Can use a blowtorch to regain the clarity after sanding


----------



## Lutro0

CM Hybrid Pro, Easier Pic to Understand.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lutro0*
> 
> CM Hybrid Pro, Easier Pic to Understand.


Added to the list.

Also sorted them into alphabetical order and toned down the text colours a bit to aid those with poor eyesight (me).


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

EVGA Supernova 1000w G2 24 Pin cable pinout

T is for the thin gauge wire out of the the double wires.

I made a custom 24 pin cable with the capacitors removed and all the cables 16 gauge wire.
Works perfectly


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Big Elf made this. So awesome!


----------



## Big Elf

Added the EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2 to the main list after converting to a slight different layout which includes the correct pin numbers. Coincidentally this *thread* helped confirm the pin-out is accurate and also that the 1000W G2 and the 1300W G2 have the same pin-out.


----------



## fast_fate

AX 850 PCI-E cable pinout.
In note form....

If some one wants to properly format into pretty diagram - please feel free, or not









Original stock cable tested with multimeter

12v wires are numbers 2, 4, 6 & 8, 10, 12

Ground wires are numbers 1, 3, 5 & 7, 9, 11



after making cable with pin out notes - tested new cable on multi meter - perfect.


----------



## Big Elf

Can you double check that please. the +2 on the 6+2 connector should both be Ground and not the 12V that it shows, unless I'm reading it wrong.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Can you double check that please. the +2 on the 6+2 connector should both be Ground and not the 12V that it shows, unless I'm reading it wrong.


Just checked with multi meter again.

Edited my post above - 3 x 12v wires and 5 x ground on each 8 pin plug.
Not other way - sorry









Pin out diagram remains the same and correct - stock and custom cable voltages match.

EDIT..
I noted that plug with wires 2,4 & 6 read 12.3v
while plug with wires 8,10 & 12 read 12.1 to 12.2v


----------



## cdnGhost

Anyone have the 4+4 CPU pinout and the single 6+2 pci e cables? It's for a corsair ax760 not sure if its a gen 2? But it is only 3 months old
Thanks


----------



## Lutro0

Awesome to see Big Elf keeping this going!


----------



## pexon

Has anyone got a pin out of the KM-3 series PCI-E cables? Can't find them anywhere!


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Has anyone got a pin out of the KM-3 series PCI-E cables? Can't find them anywhere!


They're in the section 'Notes from Big Elf on SeaSonic Units' on the first page.


----------



## pexon

Thanks dude


----------



## cdnGhost

Hey question I just checked all my pins on the end that plugs into the motherboard and noticed on pin 8 I am getting 5v
According to a 24 molex pinout it's listed as power ok....
Did I miss something or is it normal to get the 5v

Thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdnGhost*
> 
> Hey question I just checked all my pins on the end that plugs into the motherboard and noticed on pin 8 I am getting 5v
> According to a 24 molex pinout it's listed as power ok....
> Did I miss something or is it normal to get the 5v


From the ATX 2.2 specification
Quote:


> 4.1.3.3 PWR_OK
> PWR_OK is a power good signal and should be asserted high by the power supply to indicate that the +5VDC and +3.3VDC outputs are above the undervoltage thresholds of the power supply. When this signal is asserted high, there should be sufficient energy stored by the converter to guarantee continuous power operation within specification. Conversely, when the output voltages fall below the undervoltage threshold, or when mains power has been removed for a time sufficiently long so that power supply operation is no longer guaranteed, PWR_OK should be de-asserted to a low state. The recommended electrical and timing characteristics of the PWR_OK signal are provided in the ATX12V Power Supply Design Guide.



_Signal Type_*+5 V* TTL compatible_Logic level low_< 0.4 V while sinking 4 mA_Logic level high_Between 2.4 V and 5 V output while sourcing 200 µA_High-state output impedance_1 kOhm from output to common_PWR_OK delay_100 ms < T3 < 500 ms_PWR_OK risetime_T4 =< 10 ms_AC loss to PWR_OK hold-up time_T5 >= 16 ms_Power-down warning_T6 >= 1 ms
Signal type is 5V so yes short answer is yes it's normal to measure 5V at pin 8 on motherboard side


----------



## KyleRoa

Does anyone have the pin out for the RM850 24-pin?? I've gone ahead and made my own when I took it apart, but I can't seem to find any online to reference to double check.


----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyleRoa*
> 
> Does anyone have the pin out for the RM850 24-pin?? I've gone ahead and made my own when I took it apart, but I can't seem to find any online to reference to double check.


The Corsair RM series uses the same cables as the 760i,860i and 1200i


----------



## UNOE

Anyone know what TX850M 6pin on PSU side is ?

Edit : I have extra molex string from AX1200 and AX760i

I'm wondering if I could use either of these with the TX850M


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Anyone know what TX850M 6pin on PSU side is ?
> 
> Edit : I have extra molex string from AX1200 and AX760i
> 
> I'm wondering if I could use either of these with the TX850M


I'd suggest using a multi-meter on the PSU to find out (then let us know).


----------



## Big Elf

Duplicate post


----------



## PCModderMike

It may just be me and my browser, but just checking. I'm trying to expand the spoiler underneath "Corsair AX750 and AX850 by Lutro0" and it doesn't expand, it just makes the page bounce up to the top.


----------



## kpoeticg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It may just be me and my browser, but just checking. I'm trying to expand the spoiler underneath "Corsair AX750 and AX850 by Lutro0" and it doesn't expand, it just makes the page bounce up to the top.


Definitely a browser issue. Works fine for me. Try deleting all your cookies. Here's the screenshot


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## PCModderMike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PCModderMike*
> 
> It may just be me and my browser, but just checking. I'm trying to expand the spoiler underneath "Corsair AX750 and AX850 by Lutro0" and it doesn't expand, it just makes the page bounce up to the top.
> 
> 
> 
> Definitely a browser issue. Works fine for me. Try deleting all your cookies. Here's the screenshot
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

Yea it works now, I'm at home using Chrome. I was at work earlier using Firefox when it wasn't working for me. But thanks for posting the pic.


----------



## kpoeticg

NP


----------



## KyleRoa

Hey guys! Another question.

Does anyone know if the cables for the RM850 and RM1000 are the same? Ive been thinking about just getting the 1000, but I recently just sleeved all of my 850 cables, so I would prefer that they were the same, so I didnt just waste all my time

Thanks


----------



## mundivalur

Corsair PSU Compatibility: (But the 24pin is different, the AXi and RM have the same 24pin )

AXI Platinum Series - 1200/860/760
AX Platinum Series - 860/760
HX Gold Series - 1050/850/750/650
TXM Bronze Series - 850/750/650/550
CXM Bronze Series - 750/600/500/430
RM Series - 1000/850/750/650/550/450


----------



## Bartimaeus

Does anyone have the pinout for the 8 pin EPS for an XFX 1000w platinum?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bartimaeus*
> 
> Does anyone have the pinout for the 8 pin EPS for an XFX 1000w platinum?


It should be the same as the SeaSonic Platinum 1000:



This pin-outs are based on looking at the connectors from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Double check with a multi-meter or PSU tester to be sure.


----------



## Bartimaeus

Thanks. And the PCIE pinout would just be the same as every other one, right? Or is there a special one?


----------



## Big Elf

PCI-E pinout at the PSU end (also based on looking at the connector from the rear) is:



SeaSonic supply an 8 Pin EPS/CPU connector to fit the 12 pin PSU connector as well as the standard 8 pin one so XFX may do the same.

Double check with a multi-meter or PSU tester if in doubt.


----------



## barracks510

Technically, the order of wires does not matter as long as the correct voltages are delivered, correct?

For example, to eliminate double wires on a PSU, you could easily do this:



Or does that not work, because every wire has a corresponding ground?


----------



## Furion92

I don't really know how to interpret your diagram, but your statement is correct. You can use any pin on the psu with the correct voltage as a source for a combined connector for the component side.

@BigElf: I've noticed some things looking through the pinouts. The diagrams from the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid manual are just the connectors on component side (-> ATX spec). They have nothing to do with the psu-specific pinout, that might confuse people.

Then I've got another issue: it is not clear to me whether the pinouts should be read as a view onto the back of the power supply or a view on the end of the cables which go into the power supply. For example, I've provided the SPH850W pinout, which is definitely a view on the male connectors on the back of the psu, but I've got another pinout on my computer (OCZ ZX 850W) where I didn't use a multimeter but traced down the wires -> resulting in a view on the end of the cables going into the psu.

So... which is the standard form? Which view did people providing pinouts use? That's a massive origin of danger when you're making your own cables and use one of the many pinouts from this repository.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furion92*
> 
> @BigElf: I've noticed some things looking through the pinouts. The diagrams from the Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid manual are just the connectors on component side (-> ATX spec). They have nothing to do with the psu-specific pinout, that might confuse people.
> 
> *You're right that they might be confusing so I'll have a think about the best use of them and probably remove them.*
> 
> Then I've got another issue: it is not clear to me whether the pinouts should be read as a view onto the back of the power supply or a view on the end of the cables which go into the power supply. For example, I've provided the SPH850W pinout, which is definitely a view on the male connectors on the back of the psu, but I've got another pinout on my computer (OCZ ZX 850W) where I didn't use a multimeter but traced down the wires -> resulting in a view on the end of the cables going into the psu.
> 
> *Unfortunately none of us have used a standard layout. Where the back of the PSU is shown I don't think it's necessary, for the others the proper pin-out number are shown and (I think) the diagrams or notes state whether it's a view looking at the front or rear of the connector*
> 
> So... which is the standard form? Which view did people providing pinouts use? That's a massive origin of danger when you're making your own cables and use one of the many pinouts from this repository.
> 
> *Everyone using these pin-outs in the main should have there own cables and they should use these pin-outs as a double check. I appreciate some people use them because they've screwed up without making their own notes of the pin-outs before starting (and in one particular case uses them to create cable sets for his business giving nothing back in return to the OCN community).
> 
> After saying that I think I'll move my notes on using a multi-meter and PSU tester into the intro rather than just in the notes I created for my own pin-out diagrams.
> 
> *


----------



## Furion92

You're right, it's always recommended to make your own pinout diagram before ripping your cables apart. However, the ones who lost their diagrams or never made one will probably find this thread and don't have any other choice than to use what they find. The only pinout which I found 0% misleading was the one by @Devious Dog for the Corsair AX1200. If we could encourage the contibutors of pinouts to use a certain template, we could standardize the diagrams leaving no room for open questions.

I realize that there's a lot of work associated with standardizing pinouts and I'm absolutely not saying that this repository wouldn't make sense the way it is right now. It's just an idea how to improve its value.
If you ever consider doing this, feel free to contact me as I would be glad to help. After all, everything we need is a really good template (yes, I'm looking at you, @Devious Dog







) to begin with.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

I will be posting the pin out for a Highpower Astro GD 500w 80+ PSU soon...I haven't received it yet


----------



## gdubc

That is a good looking psu!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaal Sinestro*
> 
> I will be posting the pin out for a Highpower Astro GD 500w 80+ PSU soon...I haven't received it yet


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gdubc*
> 
> That is a good looking psu!


Yes...yes it is


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

UPDATE: Sorry for the delay. Been waiting for some wire and sleeving. Got them a few days ago. Tested 24 mobo, eps, vga(8pin and 6pin), and they passed! Wooo! I'm making the last cable a sata/molex power cable from scratch to test before I post anything. Will be finished soon. Lates

Aaaaand the sata connecters don't work on 16 ga wire...dang!


----------



## failwheeldrive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaal Sinestro*
> 
> EVGA Supernova 1000w G2 24 Pin cable pinout
> 
> T is for the thin gauge wire out of the the double wires.
> 
> I made a custom 24 pin cable with the capacitors removed and all the cables 16 gauge wire.
> Works perfectly


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaal Sinestro*
> 
> Big Elf made this. So awesome!


Thanks for making these guys. I was thinking about sharing the 1300 g2 diagram I made, but I'll save myself the work now. Just a heads up: the capacitors have a positive and negative side, and the three caps on the 24 pin all have different model numbers as well. Don't know if makes a difference, but it may want to be included anyway.

I checked my pinout against Big Elf's and it's correct. In case anyone is wondering, the three different caps are as follows:

(Motherboard side)
P1140: + goes to 5v, - goes to ground
P1226: + goes to 12v, - goes to ground
P1232: + goes to 3.3v, - goes to ground.

Thought this would be helpful for those like me who relocated the caps to custom cables on the power supply side in order to be hidden.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *failwheeldrive*
> 
> Thanks for making these guys. I was thinking about sharing the 1300 g2 diagram I made, but I'll save myself the work now. Just a heads up: the capacitors have a positive and negative side, and the three caps on the 24 pin all have different model numbers as well. Don't know if makes a difference, but it may want to be included anyway.
> 
> I checked my pinout against Big Elf's and it's correct. In case anyone is wondering, the three different caps are as follows:
> 
> (Motherboard side)
> P1140: + goes to 5v, - goes to ground
> P1226: + goes to 12v, - goes to ground
> P1232: + goes to 3.3v, - goes to ground.
> 
> Thought this would be helpful for those like me who relocated the caps to custom cables on the power supply side in order to be hidden.


Thanks failwheeldrive for the heads up Good lookin out!!!!


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Sorry. Took down to prevent the misinformation.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thaal Sinestro*
> 
> Annnnd I'm done!
> 
> Thank you Devious Dog!
> 
> Made from scratch and tested(24 pin, EPS, and VGA) to work


Thanks for doing this.

Can you double check the 24 pin connector please, pin 20 is normally unused?

I'm a bit confused with the PCI-E connector and am not sure what the 4A/4B split pin-out represents on the component side and the 5/1 split pin-out on the PSU side. Because a 12V can be replaced with a 12V and a Ground with a Ground then colour coding might help clarify these particular pin-outs.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

LOL your right Big Elf. Got it flipped! Ill fix it and re post! Sorry


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Here it is..corrected


----------



## Big Elf

Sorry to be a pain but could you double check the pin-outs for the PCI-E cables again please.

On that PSU the connectors for the PCI-E are also used for the EPS/CPU connector(s) therefore logically (and as there's no dual wires shown for the EPS/CPU connector) pin-outs 5-8 should be 12V and 1-4 should be Ground. There should be 2 sets of dual wires for Ground coming out of the PSU from pin-outs 1-4. Surely Pin 8 on the PSU side should therefore be 12V and not a Ground.

Colour coding them will help me see what's going on more clearly.

Confused.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

I've double check and they are correct. The problem I think is easy to see with the pic you see here



The PCI-E and EPS share the same outputs. Hope that helps

P.S. I don't have a voltmeter to test the voltages and the cables and the black wires.


----------



## Big Elf

If they share the same output then how can the PSU connectors for the PCI-E connector have a shared ground on pin 8 when the PSU connector for pin 8 for the CPU connector shows it as having 12V?

If you colour code them you should hopefully have a better idea of what I mean.

Edit: I think it's the pin-out numbering on the PSU connectors for the CPU 8 pin that are throwing me, they're the opposite way round to those for the PCI-E 6+2 pin PSU Connector.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

This is the stock cable.

I get what your saying now, but I hope you can see in this pic that that's how they are wired. Why that is I don't know. I'm no electrical engineer and I don't work at HighPower. Sorry.





Hope this helps.


----------



## Big Elf

Look closely at your pin numbering on the PSU connector for the PCI-E and then the CPU. You'll see that they're different, you've got the CPU one the opposite way round to what it should be.


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Here are 2 pics of the EPS cable. Both ends and the top and bottom of the connectors. Feel free to prove me wrong, but I stand by my earlier assertion that the EPS and PCI-E are correct.


----------



## shilka

Anyone in here that have a HighPower Astro Gold?


----------



## Big Elf

Never mind, people can work it out themselves


----------



## Big Elf

The *Corsair AX860* 24 pin cable has the same pin-outs as the Corsair AX750 and AX850. Also the same as the SeaSonic P860 V2.

Updated the listings.


----------



## WaveRider69

Great Thread Big Elf

Hey do you have the pin outs for the Corsair HX750/850 models? And the 1050.

Man that would be a huge help.


----------



## Big Elf

HX850 is *here*. I believe there are a number of different versions and I think this is version 1. That image shows the connections on the back of the PSU.


----------



## WaveRider69

You're a life saver thanks man for all this info, the whole Corsair wiring thing has been a headache until now









Many cheers

Just of curiosity do I have to follow the crisscrossing pattern of the wires that is shown in some pics to the PCI-E to the video card? It seems to me as long as all the +12's and Grounds are lined up that's all that should matter, right?

Also real quick. If I wanted to make a gpu cable with 6x16awg with a single end connected to the psu instead of two separate connectors in 2 slots, would that put any more stress on that slot? Or are all the +12v inside the PSU connected from a single point anyway so it wouldn't matter? I noticed Seasonic does this by default anyway. I just want to make sure though before I go and make a whole bunch of new cables.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WaveRider69*
> 
> Just of curiosity do I have to follow the crisscrossing pattern of the wires that is shown in some pics to the PCI-E to the video card? It seems to me as long as all the +12's and Grounds are lined up that's all that should matter, right?
> 
> *Right*
> 
> Also real quick. If I wanted to make a gpu cable with 6x16awg with a single end connected to the psu instead of two separate connectors in 2 slots, would that put any more stress on that slot? Or are all the +12v inside the PSU connected from a single point anyway so it wouldn't matter? I noticed Seasonic does this by default anyway. I just want to make sure though before I go and make a whole bunch of new cables.
> 
> *If I understand this correctly, you want to have dual wires in each of the pin-outs for a PSU connector to make 2 x 6 pin connectors.? If that's the case then:
> it seems to be OK to do it as Corsair also do this. I'm not sure if there's any implications for multi-rail PSUs though.
> I'd suggest splicing the wires.
> I'd only consider this if you were short of PCI-E cables.
> 
> *


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Can someone post the Pinout of the PCI-E cables of the AX850?

Thanks


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> Can someone post the Pinout of the PCI-E cables of the AX850?


Check again, it's there.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Check again, it's there.


For the AX850 i can't see, I just see the CPU and 24pins diagrams.


----------



## Big Elf

I believe the Corsair AX850 has the same pin-outs as the SeaSonic X-850 although you must double check with a multi-meter.


----------



## abirli

need reassurance for an evga p1000 psu. am i correct in thinking that the 8 pin eps and 8 pin gpu cables are 1:1? i know the 24 pin is posted, but just wanted to make sure about the pci and eps


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> need reassurance for an evga p1000 psu. am i correct in thinking that the 8 pin eps and 8 pin gpu cables are 1:1? i know the 24 pin is posted, but just wanted to make sure about the pci and eps


As far as i know you cant use an 8 pin EPS as an 8 pin PCI-E or the other way around


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> As far as i know you cant use an 8 pin EPS as an 8 pin PCI-E or the other way around


they have different connectors, what im looking for is if the the 8 pin pci on the psu side is the same layout as the gpu side, and the same goes for the eps


----------



## shilka

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> they have different connectors, what im looking for is if the the 8 pin pci on the psu side is the same layout as the gpu side, and the same goes for the eps


Oh sory i misunderstood you


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shilka*
> 
> As far as i know you cant use an 8 pin EPS as an 8 pin PCI-E or the other way around


FYI, I have used this method in certain situations just gotta make sure you hook them up right. Mainly low power applications.


----------



## abirli

for the evga pin out on the first page, what does (2) mean? double wire?


----------



## kpoeticg

That's what it looks like. Especially since it's a 24 => 28Pin Cable


----------



## abirli

so it has 2 wires to the same spot on the psu side connector? aka 2 wires on hole


----------



## Zooty Cat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> so it has 2 wires to the same spot on the psu side connector? aka 2 wires on hole


Splicing the double wire in the middle or somewhere out of the way, will give you a cleaner look at the motherboard end and I think it's easier than jamming two wires in to the same crimp.


----------



## abirli

When there's an unused spot on the 24 pin (pin 20) can I put a wire there and connect it to an unused spot on the psu side?


----------



## Thaal Sinestro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zooty Cat*
> 
> Splicing the double wire in the middle or somewhere out of the way, will give you a cleaner look at the motherboard end and I think it's easier than jamming two wires in to the same crimp.


Zooty Cat is correct. That's what I did. And the stock cables have double cables in one crimp. Pain in the ass to do personally speaking!



Here's my original diagram for the pin out.

Note: This diagram is from behind the connectors! You would be looking at the end that the cables goes in to the connector. Not the end of the connectors that connect to the PSU or MOBO. The flat end k?


----------



## `br4dz-

Anyone have the pinout for Corsair's RM series?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *`br4dz-*
> 
> Anyone have the pinout for Corsair's RM series?


I'm sure Lutro0 bought one of these but I haven't seen the pin-out for it yet. How about it Mike?

Edit: I'd forgotten about this post *#137* which says it's the same pin-out as the Corsair 760i,860i and 1200i


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *`br4dz-*
> 
> Anyone have the pinout for Corsair's RM series?


Im waiting one for me, and i will do some custom cables, after that i post the pinout.


----------



## Himo5

Awkward squad here.

As my modding supplies wing their way round the planet towards me I'm prepping the various tasks ahead, not least of which is the big, Seasonic, Ha-ha, sleeve that! competition which, in addition to doubled crimps from different plugs and twisted wires, presents us with a collection of different wire gauges into the bargain.

Having got my magnifier out I've managed to glean the wire gauges shown in the printing on each wire in the 10/18>24 ATX cable, where it's not glued under sleeving, but that still leaves me with a question mark over 4 wires which may be either 20 or 22 AWG.

I post this addendum to the original chart in the hope that some kind soul may have more info and to ask in passing if there are any examples posted anywhere that these things have been sleeved without completely disregarding what Seasonic did.


----------



## Big Elf

Unless you're sleeving the original wires then the vast majority of people use 18AWG (or the metric equivalent 24/0.2) for the whole power supply. Dual wires are spliced, twisted wires are untwisted and left that way.


----------



## Himo5

Thanks for the quick response. So, for example, the UL1007 18awg hoook up wire I'm getting from ModDIY should be fine?


----------



## Big Elf

That should be fine. I don't know where you're based but also check out Lutro0s *stuff*. If you're in the UK then you can get 24/0.2 a fair bit cheaper.


----------



## Himo5

I'm trying out a design based on their gold sleeving, so have kitted up with their preferred materials.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Corsair RM750 Pinout here...


----------



## Big Elf

Thanks for that. Could you run your spellchecker and then copy it again without the red highlights please.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Thanks for that. Could you run your spellchecker and then copy it again without the red highlights please.


Oh lol sorry for that, I will upload it again


----------



## aRkangeLPT




----------



## Big Elf

Thank you, added to list.


----------



## joesaiditstrue

can somebody explain how seasonic jusifies their 24pin design on their x1250 psu? They run two 12v leads from the psu to one single pin on the 24pin, they do this with a 5v as well... Wouldn't one lead per pin be sufficient? It would make sense if you're running a 12v lead from the psu to two separate pins on the 24pin, but I don't get wiring two separate 12v leads into a single pin?


----------



## Big Elf

Just a reminder about this Repository of Power Supply Pin Outs. I've noticed there's quite a few people who post regularly on here who've sleeved their PSU(s) but haven't posted a pin-out. It would be much appreciated if you could take the time to do so.

If you need any help with doing it send me a pm and I'll try to help.


----------



## amatthie

I've got a question about wire placement for my Ultra x4 1050w psu. The pin out that Frank Stein posted for the 750w is the exact layout my 24pin atx is. Of course with the stock pin placement it creates a nasty blob of wires.
I am wondering if it is safe to detangle the wires a bit as long the correct voltage wire ends in a proper place.
For example: Pin 4 on the psu connecter is suppose to go to pin 6 on the mobo connecter. Its "yellow" 12v wire. Is it safe to put pin 4 (psu) into pin 4 (mobo)? In other words as long as the start voltage(psu) ends in the same end (mobo) voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> *Ultra X4 750W 24Pin by Frank N. Stein*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click to Expand
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.4shared.com/office/6qV20HdK/UltraX4_750W_24-Pin.html
> 
> Other cables are still needed for this pinout


----------



## Germanian

ENERMAX Maxrevo EMR1500EWT add please

rails 12v1, and 12v2 each have 12v x 20A = 240 Watt each Rail

rails 12v3, 12v4, 12v5 and 12v6 each have 12v x 30A = 360 Watt each Rail


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amatthie*
> 
> I've got a question about wire placement for my Ultra x4 1050w psu. The pin out that Frank Stein posted for the 750w is the exact layout my 24pin atx is. Of course with the stock pin placement it creates a nasty blob of wires.
> I am wondering if it is safe to detangle the wires a bit as long the correct voltage wire ends in a proper place.
> For example: Pin 4 on the psu connecter is suppose to go to pin 6 on the mobo connecter. Its "yellow" 12v wire. Is it safe to put pin 4 (psu) into pin 4 (mobo)? In other words as long as the start voltage(psu) ends in the same end (mobo) voltage.


You're generally OK to do that i.e. match a 12V with a 12V, a 5V with a 5v, Ground with a Ground etc. However where there are dual wires on some of the pins you may need to follow the pin-outs as some of these dual wires are sensors. Whilst I'm not 100% sure about this I do recall at least one person commenting that the PSU wouldn't start up if the pin-outs weren't matched exactly (it's also possible they were wrong at the first attempt).


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Germanian*
> 
> ENERMAX Maxrevo EMR1500EWT add please
> 
> rails 12v1, and 12v2 each have 12v x 20A = 240 Watt each Rail
> 
> rails 12v3, 12v4, 12v5 and 12v6 each have 12v x 30A = 360 Watt each Rail


Thanks for this. Are the pin-outs based on the connectors on the cable or on the PSU (I'm guessing PSU)? If it's the cable is it looking from the front or rear of the connector? (Never mind, found the answer with the image in the manual). In addition the 20 pin and 16 pin sockets combine both the 24 Pin and 8 Pin CPU/EPS connectors.

Adding the pin-out numbers from the 24 pin connector would be helpful.


----------



## amatthie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> You're generally OK to do that i.e. match a 12V with a 12V, a 5V with a 5v, Ground with a Ground etc. However where there are dual wires on some of the pins you may need to follow the pin-outs as some of these dual wires are sensors. Whilst I'm not 100% sure about this I do recall at least one person commenting that the PSU wouldn't start up if the pin-outs weren't matched exactly (it's also possible they were wrong at the first attempt).


Thanks for the info. Lucky I only have 1 double wire to deal with and I am keeping that pin position stock. I'll probably be purchasing a psu tester to confirm the readings are exactly the same.


----------



## Big Elf

I recommend the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* PSU tester. AFAIK it's the only one that will test the 8 pin PCI-E cables as well as the other main connectors.


----------



## pexon

Does anyone have a pinout for the AX750 and AX 860? I've seen the one in the OP, but I can't understand it, the 24 pin doesn't seem to be on the 10/18 pin connectors. Does it use the same pinout as certain Seasonics?


----------



## joesaiditstrue

Gonna try to make a pin-out for Seasonic X-1250, the one supplied here is incorrect and won't allow me to jump-start the PSU. I used the diagram here (and triple-checked my work) to "fix" my MODDIY 24-pin cable that already gave me fits, and it also did not allow the PSU to be jumped using the paper-clip method.

I bought a spare x-1250 cable kit from a Seasonic reseller, and checked their 24-pin wiring compared to the one in this thread, and it's different and the 24-pin I received from the reseller works properly when trying to jump the unit.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joesaiditstrue*
> 
> Gonna try to make a pin-out for Seasonic X-1250, the one supplied here is incorrect and won't allow me to jump-start the PSU. I used the diagram here (and triple-checked my work) to "fix" my MODDIY 24-pin cable that already gave me fits, and it also did not allow the PSU to be jumped using the paper-clip method.
> 
> I bought a spare x-1250 cable kit from a Seasonic reseller, and checked their 24-pin wiring compared to the one in this thread, and it's different and the 24-pin I received from the reseller works properly when trying to jump the unit.


Was that taking into account the note with the pin-out

'As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires

The dual Ground wires shown on Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector are optional. If you redo Pin 24 as a single Ground wire then leave Pin 7 on the 18 Pin Connector unused and move Pin 3 from the 24 Pin connector to Pin 6 on the 18 Pin Connector to match the latest revision. It's beneficial to leave Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector as a single wire to avoid splitting dual wires between the 18 pin and the 10 pin connector. If you find this confusing let me know and I'll do an additional image.'

I've tried to check your pin-outs although a little bit difficult as you've non-standard pin numbering and yours is based on looking at the connector from the front while mine is based on looking from the back and taking into account the above comment they match allowing for the fact that some of the same voltage (or ground) wires are transposed into the same voltage (or ground) wires e.g. 12V matches 12V, 5V matches 5V, Ground matches Ground, 3.3V matches 3.3V. I've also rechecked it to the official SeaSonic pin-out diagram so am a bit puzzled.

What pin-outs was the ModDIY cable using?


----------



## joesaiditstrue

yes I'm aware that the diagram here was with a rear view perspective, i took that into account when re-pinning the moddiy.

I don't remember what the original moddiy pin layout was but it was different from the one here

not sure what would have caused the issue, does my diagram have the exact same locations for double wires (on the 24pin side) as the diagram here? curious if any of the ground/3.3/5/12 wires are actually running into a "sensing" slot (you can tell which slots these are if you have an original seasonic cable, on the pins using split wires, follow the thinner wire to the 10 pin or 18 pin connector


----------



## Big Elf

At least one of each of the dual wires were in the same pin-out on each diagram except for the Ground on the original pin-out diagram. However if you followed the additional note about the optional Ground pin-out and replaced it in pin-out 6 on the 18 pin connector. There should be no reason why either yours or the SeaSonic pin-out should not work.

I'll create another diagram for the X-1250 which shows the alternative pin-outs but either of them should work and both have been tested on a P1000.

SeaSonic have standardised on their pin-outs for the models that use 18 Pin and 10 Pin connectors as well as the models that use 16 Pin and 10 Pin connectors.


----------



## JackNaylorPE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Was that taking into account the note with the pin-out
> 
> 'As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires
> 
> The dual Ground wires shown on Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector are optional. If you redo Pin 24 as a single Ground wire then leave Pin 7 on the 18 Pin Connector unused and move Pin 3 from the 24 Pin connector to Pin 6 on the 18 Pin Connector to match the latest revision. It's beneficial to leave Pin 24 on the 24 Pin Connector as a single wire to avoid splitting dual wires between the 18 pin and the 10 pin connector. If you find this confusing let me know and I'll do an additional image.'
> 
> I've tried to check your pin-outs although a little bit difficult as you've non-standard pin numbering and yours is based on looking at the connector from the front while mine is based on looking from the back and taking into account the above comment they match allowing for the fact that some of the same voltage (or ground) wires are transposed into the same voltage (or ground) wires e.g. 12V matches 12V, 5V matches 5V, Ground matches Ground, 3.3V matches 3.3V. I've also rechecked it to the official SeaSonic pin-out diagram so am a bit puzzled.
> 
> What pin-outs was the ModDIY cable using?


I also did it the non standard way and thought I had posted it for other "backwards" people







like me .... I did it with a meter verifying each wore and did it by sticking the meter probes in the sockets with them facing me. In any case .... here's my CAD drawing is it helps anyone looking from the other side.

PSUCable.pdf 35k .pdf file


----------



## Sadfez

Anyone sitting on a Corsair CS*M pin-out diagram? Can't seem to find anything about that psu. Made a few cables for a friend with a CS550M and I'm stuck until I can figure this out. The original cables are not within my reach.
Alternatively, is any of the other Corsair series similar to the CS*M in therms of pin-out?


----------



## Big Elf

As it's only semi-modular checking the pin-outs for the EPS, PCIE and Auxiliary connectors with a multi-meter should be relatively straight forward. As the PSU series is the only one of Corsairs made by GreatWall there's only a slight chance that the pin-outs match those on other Corsair PSUs.


----------



## Sadfez

Thanks for the input. Should've mentioned that I don't have the PSU here either. Guess it's up to him now.


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> Corsair RM750 Pinout here...


Is this looking at the connector from the back or front?


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Its from this side... i suppose that its the same as the other guy's.



Is where the numbers are written.


----------



## iBored

I made one for my RM850 too.
I think it's the same as the RM750.


----------



## Big Elf

Thank you. Am I correct in thinking that the POV on the component connector is looking at it from the front and the PSU connector is also looking from the front of the connector? Also that the only dual wire on the 24 pin is pin-out 13 (3.3V)?


----------



## iBored

I did mine all looking from where the wires go in the connector.

And yep only one double wire.
I'm having trouble crimping 2 of lutro0's 16 awg wire together for that though.


----------



## Adict

Hi guys , can anyone help me with PINOUTS on PSU XFX XTR 550W , Or have other PSU who compatible with my. Its 20+4 pin on motherboard , and 1x18pin on psu and another one 1x10 pin to psu . I just sleeve the cables and mixed some wires and PC would not turn on . Help


----------



## Big Elf

Have a look at the pin-outs for the SeaSonic KM2 series on Page 1 and get a multi-meter and/or Thermaltake Dr Power II PSU tester as well. Hopefully the short circuit protection has worked.


----------



## Adict

thanks but i think its not compatible with xfx xtr 550 because i dont have pin like on page 1 on SeaSonic KM2 . I think on empty pin .

http://cdn.overclock.net/f/f0/900x900px-LL-f0613dfc_x1250.png

8 pin on 24 pin are empty.


----------



## Big Elf

You realise my pin-out diagrams are looking from the back of the connector? You've also used non-standard pin-out numbers which doesn't make it easy to compare them. Pin number 20 is not used on the 24 Pin Connector.


----------



## Adict

Uhh thanks a lot . That help me , my PSU are again on full of speed







I used pinouts of SeaSonic KM2 for XFX XTR 550 W and Its works. Thanks one more time Big Elf .


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adict*
> 
> Uhh thanks a lot . That help me , my PSU are again on full of speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used pinouts of SeaSonic KM2 for XFX XTR 550 W and Its works. Thanks one more time Big Elf .


As you've confirmed the pin-outs are the same as the SeaSonic KM2 series I've added the XFX XTR 550W to the main listing, thank you.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iBored*
> 
> I made one for my RM850 too.
> I think it's the same as the RM750.
> snip


Thank you, added to main listing.


----------



## JoeArchitect

Just unboxed my XFX XTR 650W; the numbered backs of the PSU connectors and the diagram in the manual for the motherboard connection both appear to imply that this unit is the same as the Seasonic KM2/3 series.

Doesn't surprise me as it's Seasonic OEM, the 550W is the same, and the KM2/3 uses the same diagram for its models.


----------



## xerythul

This might be a bit of a stretch, but is anyone able to provide a pin out of the thermaltake toughpower 1200w psu with s/n w0133ru? I am about to send an email off to thermaltake and see if they will provide me with one but I thought I would ask the pro's too ;-).

Thank you for keeping this thread up by the way. I used it to sleeve up my corsair ax1200, after drawing up my own diagram to verify nothing had changed and the info was spot on. Thanks again!


----------



## Methadras

I have a Seasonic X-850 that I'm getting ready to sleeve. I looked at the Seasonic pinout, but there is a discrepancy from the picture to the actual cable I have. In the picture pin 18 is ground and pin 20 is not used, but on my cable, pin 20 is used and pin 18 is not used. Can anyone who has this power supply please take a picture of it for me or verify for me that it is supposed to be the way it is in the picture?

Thank you.


----------



## Big Elf

Are you looking at the 24 pin Connector from the back (where the cables are inserted). Pin-out 20 isn't used in the current ATX spec.

On some SeaSonic PSUs they have an optional, additional ground wire but it's connected as a dual wire in the normally unused pin-out 7 of the 18 pin connector.


----------



## Methadras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Are you looking at the 24 pin Connector from the back (where the cables are inserted). Pin-out 20 isn't used in the current ATX spec.
> 
> On some SeaSonic PSUs they have an optional, additional ground wire but it's connected as a dual wire in the normally unused pin-out 7 of the 18 pin connector.


Okay, that's great to know. Now I just need to move the pin over and it all should be good. Scared the crap out of me and it's a good thing I saw it because i'm hooking this PSU up to an ASUS Maximus V Formula and I did not want it to go boom.


----------



## Big Elf

As I think I've mentioned elsewhere once or twice a *Thermaltake Dr Power II* PSU Tester is a good investment if you're sleeving as it will test all the main cables on current ATX PSUs.


----------



## xerythul

Any hopefuls on the Thermaltake Toughpower 1200w p/n wo133ru? Thermaltake told me to shove off in so many words, wiring diagrams are not something they make available apparently. I am really just trying to create a few cords that I didn't get with the supply, any help is appreciated.


----------



## mundivalur

Does anyone have the rest of the Evga P2/G2 1000w (8pin cpu,pcie,molex and sata )
Thanks


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Does anyone have the rest of the Evga P2/G2 1000w (8pin cpu,pcie,molex and sata )
> Thanks


If you don't get a response you could use a multi-meter to find the pin-outs yourself and post them here.


----------



## mundivalur

Yea if i had any Evga cables i would do that


----------



## Big Elf

You don't need the cables. Take the readings from the pin-outs on the PSU.


----------



## xerythul

Big Elf, this may sound a little dumb, but how exactly would I go about doing something like that? I'm trying to create a cable to use with my TT toughpower 1200w, a 6 pin to 6+2 pin connector to be specific. I have access to a 6 pin to 6 pin, and an 8 pin to 8 pin, but the crossover point of 6 to 6+2 isnt overtly obvious to me. I'm a little new to all this stuff but trying to keep detailed records of pinouts as I go along.


----------



## Big Elf

Making sure that you have the probes correctly inserted in the multi-meter (Black probe goes into the COM connector). If you put the black probe into a pin and the red probe into another then for the PCI-E or CPU/EPS Connectors:

If it shows 0 you have identified 2 Ground or 2 12V connections
If it shows -12V you have the black probe in the 12V connection and the red probe in the ground connection
If it shows 12V you have correctly identified a 12V connection and a ground connection.

Work through the pin-outs on the PSU until each one is identified. You'll need to 'jump start' the PSU to do this.

Bear in mind that the 8 pin PCI-E cable consists of 3 x 12V wires and 5 Ground wires. It's acceptable to splice the Ground wires if necessary.

Even when you've finished doing this it is still good idea to use a PSU Tester to make sure your finished cables have been assembled correctly.


----------



## xerythul

Excellent, thank you for that. So from looking at one of the links in the first post am I correct in assuming that a ground is a ground and a +12v is a +12v? i.e. if I use the standard pci-e 6 pin configuration (working backwards from the graphics card) I can remove the two extra ground pins in the 4 and 8 position (because im trying to turn an 8 to 8 into a 6+2 to 8), trace them back and remove them from wherever they plug in on the psu side? Obviously a power supply tester and multimeter will tell me my final result (good or bad) but does my logic seem sound this far at least?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Excellent, thank you for that. So from looking at one of the links in the first post am I correct in assuming that a ground is a ground and a +12v is a +12v? i.e. if I use the standard pci-e 6 pin configuration (working backwards from the graphics card) I can remove the two extra ground pins in the 4 and 8 position (because im trying to turn an 8 to 8 into a 6+2 to 8), trace them back and remove them from wherever they plug in on the psu side? Obviously a power supply tester and multimeter will tell me my final result (good or bad) but does my logic seem sound this far at least?


That's about it.


----------



## xerythul

It sounds deceptively simple. So the only thing proprietary then is where the +12v and ground connectors are on the psu side? like 1-3 are +12v, 4-8 are ground in my case, so it doesnt matter if I go 1 to 1, 2 to 2, and 3 to 3, OR 1 to 2, 2 to 1, and 3 to 3 etc etc as long as they end up in the right spots on the graphics card side? What a revelation, I have been agonizing over this for days, and it all just seems too simple now.


----------



## Big Elf

It is simple and you're right, as long as you match 12V to 12V and Ground to Ground (in the case of PCI-E and EPS cables) you'll be fine.

Also it only takes a tiny bit of extra work with the multi-meter to identify the additional 3.3V and 5V pin-outs on the auxiliary connectors.

Armed with a PSU tester as well you can't really go wrong.


----------



## xerythul

Awesome, I'm going to get to it. I appreciate your help and insight big elf, hopefully here in a few days I'll be able to start using this psu when I get time to crack down on it. Thanks again.


----------



## Himo5

In the KM2 Seasonic cable set for MKII X-Series PSUs X-560/660/760/850 there is a twisted wire pair in the 24-pin cable, Purple Mbd Pin9:5VStandby and Black Mbd Pin19:Ground. This has been widely presumed to be an EMI protection measure for when the computer is in standby mode with the general sleeving decision to ignore it. My question is would wrapping the Purple wire with adhesive Ally foil serve the same purpose?


----------



## aRkangeLPT

One thing, acording to Corsair Website the ATX 24pins from RM750 its the same for the AXI Platinum Series - 1200/860/760
RM Series - 1000/850/750/650/550/450 but when i look at my pinout and the 1200i, that is posted on this thread they don't look the same to me, something is wrong? Could be a diferent view? It say's Front view... what does that mean?


----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> One thing, acording to Corsair Website the ATX 24pins from RM750 its the same for the AXI Platinum Series - 1200/860/760
> RM Series - 1000/850/750/650/550/450 but when i look at my pinout and the 1200i, that is posted on this thread they don't look the same to me, something is wrong? Could be a diferent view? It say's Front view... what does that mean?


Looking at front https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37251938/V%C3%ADrafl%C3%A6kja/Evga%20sata%20%282%29.jpg
then the back is where the wires go in








The AX1200i uses the same cables as the RM series


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Looking at front https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/37251938/V%C3%ADrafl%C3%A6kja/Evga%20sata%20%282%29.jpg
> then the back is where the wires go in
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The AX1200i uses the same cables as the RM series


Hum ok but i made the other way, its when you look from the back.


----------



## Himo5

Think of it as the connection face and the wire entry face.

The Rear view or back of the connector is where the wires of the cable go into it and if you look closely you should see that each wire entry port is numbered, the digits in these numbers determine which way up to set the position of the Connector Latch when you look at this wire entry face.

The Front view shows the array of plugs that go into the array of sockets in the target connector (or vice versa) and you determine which way up to look at this connection face according to the position of the Connector Latch.

When you have a modular cable connecting two sockets on the PSU with one socket on the motherboard, with the PSU sockets positioned with the latch on the bottom of the connector and the pinout diagram having the latch on the top - in accordance with the numbering - it can get really confusing trying to work out which wire goes where.

Some people try to overcome this with a Connection Face diagram but this is only likely to add to the confusion. The best diagram to have is to orient the PSU plug numbers according to the physical position of the latch. Here's one from a previous Seasonic mark.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Think of it as the connection face and the wire entry face.
> 
> The Rear view or back of the connector is where the wires of the cable go into it and if you look closely you should see that each wire entry port is numbered, the digits in these numbers determine which way up to set the position of the Connector Latch when you look at this wire entry face.
> 
> The Front view shows the array of plugs that go into the array of sockets in the target connector (or vice versa) and you determine which way up to look at this connection face according to the position of the Connector Latch.
> 
> When you have a modular cable connecting two sockets on the PSU with one socket on the motherboard, with the PSU sockets positioned with the latch on the bottom of the connector and the pinout diagram having the latch on the top - in accordance with the numbering - it can get really confusing trying to work out which wire goes where.
> 
> Some people try to overcome this with a Connection Face diagram but this is only likely to add to the confusion. The best diagram to have is to orient the PSU plug numbers according to the physical position of the latch. Here's one from a previous Seasonic mark.


I know it Himo5, but i was just confused because everyone should make this the same way arround, and not ones from back and other from front, because the last cable for the AX850 i have made was wrong because of this.


----------



## Big Elf

Jappetto at Reddit has come up with a template which not only would standardise the layout for the pin-outs but would also include all the connectors and has the advantage of looking extremely good, sample below:



However before releasing it it would be a good idea to get your comments on it with any suggestions for improvement e.g.
to include a colour coded legend,
to clarify whether you're looking at the connector from the back or front etc.

Please post your thoughts and if you would like to volunteer to help maintain the templates please let me know.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> I know it Himo5, but i was just confused because everyone should make this the same way arround, and not ones from back and other from front, because the last cable for the AX850 i have made was wrong because of this.


As you may have gathered - I went there too.


----------



## awesomedude872

Can Someone make a pinout for the Corsair CX750M
thinking of sleeving mah cables

THANKS:thumb:


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awesomedude872*
> 
> Can Someone make a pinout for the Corsair CX750M
> thinking of sleeving mah cables
> 
> THANKS:thumb:


It's semi-modular and made by Seasonic, so read the "Notes from Big Elf on SeaSonic Units" in the OP.


----------



## awesomedude872

but all the cables are black


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *awesomedude872*
> 
> but all the cables are black


Perhaps you can use stickers to help remember which wire goes where. (And obviously PSU tester or multimeter before switching it on.)


----------



## abirli

if you've got the psu why dont you make one for the community?

http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1623709/flags/LL


----------



## Brian18741

*EVGA Series*

*EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G2 and SuperNOVA 1300 G2 by Thaal Sinestro*


Spoiler: Click to Expand



Note that the PSU has capacitors between pins 1 and 3 (3.3V and Ground), pins 4 and 15 (5V and Ground) and pins 10 and 7 (12V and Ground).

It has been confirmed that the SuperNOVA 1300 G2 also uses the same pin-out.

Note: EVGA issued an *Update Notice* for this PSU to highlight a possible manufacturing defect.


----------



## Big Elf

You can normally match the colours so as long as 12V matches 12V, Ground matches Ground, 5V matches 5V etc. you should be OK. You still won't be able to get a perfectly straight cable but if you try to do the twists nearer the PSU end it'll be less visible.

You could also make a short length of cables with all the twists and splices to be hidden with an extension on that:





excuse the poor photography skills.


----------



## Brian18741

Excellent idea, I may do just that!

This may be a stupid question but I am assuming male terminal pins go into male connectors and female pins into female connectors?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Excellent idea, I may do just that!
> 
> This may be a stupid question but I am assuming male terminal pins go into male connectors and female pins into female connectors?


correct


----------



## abirli

does anyone know if the silverstone strider plus 1000 follows the 2 silverstone models listed in the OP?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> does anyone know if the silverstone strider plus 1000 follows the 2 silverstone models listed in the OP?


All Striders are much the same, minor variation is whether it has double wire between pins 13 and 20.


----------



## Brian18741

Is there different pin outs for PCIe 6 and 8 pins and 8 pin EPS etc?


----------



## oc_geek

Mind that PCIe and EPS have *reversed polarities*

Connector (end point not PSU side) front view at the right side of pic


----------



## tinus93

Does anyone know if the EVGA 850W G2 follows the same pinout as the 1000W G2 and 1300W G2? I will make a pinout for safety reasons anyways but it would be nice if I have something to compare it with.


----------



## Gait

I'm planning to make custom cables for my Corsair AX760, I don't have a multimeter yet, tonight I'm getting one.
Is the AX760 the same as AX750?

I have a R9 290 wich uses a 8+6 pin, Corsair delivers a 8 pin PSU side with a 6+2 pin GPU side splitting up to 8-pin GPU side.
Can I make two different cables for this? One 8 pin PSU - 8 pin GPU and one 8 pin PSU - 6 pin GPU?


----------



## DanielCoffey

Yes, Gait - that would be a good idea. I have an AX860I and will be using two separate cables to the GPU.


----------



## Gait

Can I use a 8 pin PSU side connector with only 6 wires in it?
Were can I get 10 and 14 pin connectors in The Netherlands/Europe.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gait*
> 
> Can I use a 8 pin PSU side connector with only 6 wires in it?
> Were can I get 10 and 14 pin connectors in The Netherlands/Europe.


http://www.modding.bit-tech.pl/sklep/en/black-connector/390-corsair-ax1200i-psu-modular-connector-full-set-16pcs.html 10 euro for a full set, but I think you can buy them individually as well.


----------



## xerythul

Yes, you can absolutely use an 8pin (psu side) to 6pin (gpu side) connector as long as you mind which wires go to where. I did it on my ax1200 actually, same exact scenario with my gpu using an 8pin and 6pin but on the psu side they are both 8pin. Doing some googling can find what youre looking for if the OP doesnt have the 860i in the post, but I'm pretty sure it does.


----------



## DanielCoffey

UK supplier of the Lutro0 connectors is E22 and he should ship to the EU. He has the 10 and 14pin in stock but is currently out of 8pin female EPS.

http://www.e22.biz/connectors.aspx


----------



## abirli

@big elf

the evga nex650g pci cables are 1:1 correct?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> @big elf
> 
> the evga nex650g pci cables are 1:1 correct?


I was hoping someone would chime in with an answer.

Best way is to check with a multi-meter using this *rough guide*


----------



## abirli

they are indeed 1:1


----------



## abirli

when looking at the ax760 and rm750, which generation are they referring to?

since the gpu and cpu both share connectors at the psu end, am i correct in assuming that one row is all 12v and the other is ground.

in the rm750 all the 12v leads are on the "bottom" or flat part of the connector, and the grounds are on the part with the locking tab.
while at the ax760 all the 12v leads are at the top with the locking tab and the grounds are on the bottom flat part.

this leads me to think that one of the pinouts is either wrong or from a different version, because the corsair sleeve kits work on both the rm750 and ax760.

am i right or am i just confusing my self?


----------



## Gait

I've made a diagram for the Corsair AX760.

CorsairAX760.pdf 4027k .pdf file


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gait*
> 
> I've made a diagram fot the Corsair AX760.
> 
> CorsairAX760.pdf 4027k .pdf file


so looking at that, it reflects the rm750 like it should, the ax760 listed in the OP is different. right?

edit to add///

pretty much gnd's on the bottom of the plug at the psu end and 12v at the top.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

On this image/pinout the view on the 24pin connector is from front or back?

On the 10 18pin its from the back right?


----------



## Big Elf

Looking at the pin numbering they're all looking from the front.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Ok and the 10 and 18pin connector too?


----------



## tinus93

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2
This psu has 3 double wires and 3 capacitors.
It looks a lot like the 1000W and 1300W but the cables were different, voltages are all the same though. The end of the 10 and 18 pin was different.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2
> This psu has 3 double wires and 3 capacitors.
> It looks a lot like the 1000W and 1300W but the cables were different, voltages are all the same though. The end of the 10 and 18 pin was different.
> snip


Thank you. Added to list. The other connectors would also be useful.


----------



## tinus93

I am working on those aswell as a revision for better wire management. Soon™*

*Not an actual trademark


----------



## tinus93

This should be 99% perfect. I can't be too sure untill I finish this PSU myself.


----------



## Domiro

I'm currently sleeving my first PSU cables for a BeQuiet! Power Zone 650w.

Started with the PSU to GPU cable, which splits into 6+2 and another 6+2. As recommended I made myself a diagram and split double cables where needed. Now I'm looking at the second PSU to GPU cable and I noticed the layout is different. Whereas on the one I've already done the '+2' is simply a double cable coming from a single terminal, while the the second PSU to GPU cable has the '+2' coming from two different terminals. Both 12 pins are identical, but for both the 6+2 connectors are completely different.

I've got one of those el cheapo PSU testers, so would there be any harm in testing it out or am I better off contacting BeQuiet to see whether they've got the diagrams for me?


----------



## Big Elf

The people who assemble the cables don't always put them in exactly the same place in the connector and as long as a 12V matches a 12V and a Ground matches a Ground it'll be fine. There's no harm in using a PSU tester to check.


----------



## Domiro

Interesting, I had no idea. I thought the pattern on the 12 pin looked a little weird but didn't consider it any further.

Out of curosity, what If I wired it wrong and hook it up to the PSU tester, should I expect anything drastic?


----------



## Big Elf

If it's wired incorrectly the USB tester will indicate this depending on which it is.

Edit: I forgot, there's only one decent PSU tester that will test 8 Pin PCI-E cables, the *Thermaltake Dr Power II*. All the others are pointless unless you're willing to take a risk or they've updated them to include this test.


----------



## Domiro

Thanks for the info!

Tested and turned out fine.


----------



## pexon

Does anyone have a pinout for Corsair AX760 PCI/ EPS? I can't find any info on them


----------



## aRkangeLPT

James it's the same for allmost all of them http://www.corsair.com/pt-pt/professional-individually-sleeved-dc-cable-kit-type-3-generation-2-black
You can copy from my RM750 Pinout.


----------



## pexon

Brilliant, thanks man


----------



## Gait

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gait*
> 
> I've made a diagram for the Corsair AX760.
> 
> CorsairAX760.pdf 4027k .pdf file


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Does anyone have a pinout for Corsair AX760 PCI/ EPS? I can't find any info on them


I didn't finished sleeving yet but this is what I made of it.


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gait*
> 
> I didn't finished sleeving yet but this is what I made of it.


In your diagram it shows the the CPU connector goes directly to the same pin on the PSU side, on others, I've seen it cross over, top to bottom. Do I presume rightly that your diagram is not correct?


----------



## abirli

I've got the ax769 cable in my hand right now the "top" row with the locking tab on the CPU connector goes to the bottom or flat part of the psu connector


----------



## pexon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> I've got the ax769 cable in my hand right now the "top" row with the locking tab on the CPU connector goes to the bottom or flat part of the psu connector


OK cool, thats what I thought!







I was confused by your diagram


----------



## aRkangeLPT

@Big Elf help me understand the AX850 CPU pinout, is it from front right? Why are all the numbers mixed on both connectors?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> OK cool, thats what I thought!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was confused by your diagram


It's not my diagram, just happen to be sleeving that cable at the time haha


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> @Big Elf help me understand the AX850 CPU pinout, is it from front right? Why are all the numbers mixed on both connectors?


For the 24 pin connector it's looking from the front. If you look at the connectors you'll find that often they're numbered so it's easy to determine the orientation. Pin number 20 is very rarely used so that's another way of determining the connector orientation.

Corsair don't use a 1 to 1 relationship with the pin numbers which explains why they're all over the place and also there are some dual wires.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> For the 24 pin connector it's looking from the front. If you look at the connectors you'll find that often they're numbered so it's easy to determine the orientation. Pin number 20 is very rarely used so that's another way of determining the connector orientation.
> 
> Corsair don't use a 1 to 1 relationship with the pin numbers which explains why they're all over the place and also there are some dual wires.


Yes I know, but let me explain better, in ATX 8 pins i dont know, if this pinout was made, looking from back or front like the 24pins.

And the question about mixed numbers that's if you look on the Motherboard side they look straight/in order but on the right side don't, and i was just wondering why!


----------



## fast_fate

I posted a few notes on the AX850 a while back.
Maybe this will help you


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Thank you, i needed that to finish the PCI-E, can you do the same for EPS 8 pins?


----------



## xerythul

The motherboard supply 8pin or 4pin is different than the configuration for pcie. I dont know the exact for your model psu but dont try to use the pcie pinout.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

And you are saying this because? You think i don't know?

Can someone make a correct 8Pins EPS pinout for AX850?


----------



## Tracti

Is the Cooler Master V850 the same as the hybrid layout
thanks


----------



## Pimphare

@Tracti

Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the OEM of the CM V850 is *SeaSonic-X KM3*.



This is for the 24 pin motherboard side and 28 pin (18pin and 10pin) psu side.


----------



## Big Elf

It depends on the *precise model*


----------



## Pimphare

I believe it's this model: RS-850-AFBA-G1

http://www.jonnyguru.com/modules.php?name=NDReviews&op=Story2&reid=350

According to Jonnyguru it is based on SeaSonic KM3.


----------



## Big Elf

It could be a SeaSonic then but be wary of the connectors. The Peripheral and PCI-E connectors are not the SeaSonic standard used on current KM2 or KM3 PSUs. I'd double check the 24 Pin before use and wouldn't rely on the CPU/PCI-E or Peripheral pin-outs for the SeaSonics at all.


----------



## Pimphare

Alright. So maybe it'd be best to draw up his/her own pin-out diagram?

This is probably what I'm going to do.


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> And you are saying this because? You think i don't know?
> 
> Can someone make a correct 8Pins EPS pinout for AX850?


Sorry mate, can't find my notes on that one and the system is in use with the psu unaccessable now


----------



## xerythul

I was saying it because it sounded like you weren't sure, but going back and reading your post again you just wanted someone to do some work for you. I might recommend something that was pointed out to me, a multimeter and psu tester will get you everything you want to know. GL!


----------



## Noblesgroup

Do you have a pin out of Thermaltakes TR2 series? If not I have one I can send you and add to the list. I bring this up because I read a few posts of people that could not find the info, and had to do some digging myself. Let me know if you're interested. Thanks


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noblesgroup*
> 
> Do you have a pin out of Thermaltakes TR2 series? If not I have one I can send you and add to the list. I bring this up because I read a few posts of people that could not find the info, and had to do some digging myself. Let me know if you're interested. Thanks


No, we don't have any Thermaltake PSUs in the list yet so yours would be welcome.


----------



## Tracti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> Alright. So maybe it'd be best to draw up his/her own pin-out diagram?
> 
> This is probably what I'm going to do.


Thanks for the help guys its a Cooler Master V850, same as this.

http://apac.coolermaster.com/en/product/Detail/powersupply/enthusiast-v-series/v850.html

Thanks heaps for the help was doing my head in sitting there last night trying to draw it up.


----------



## Smithcity

UPDATE TO EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2

So I just got a brand spanking new EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 PSU and figured I'd use the pin-out provided on this thread. I know you guys gave the warning to make our own pin-outs but was going to ignore that. Before tearing my 24pin apart I did decide to compare 1 or 2 of the pins provided here with my cable and luck would have it...they were different.

I went through and ended up making my own diagram, see below. Some pins are the same as the pin-out provided by Thaal Sinestro, yet several were different. After I finished my diagram, I went back and checked each wire to ensure I didn't make a mistake. It turns out that while some of the diagram is different, 3.3v, 5v, 12v etc... are all there as they should, just coming from alternative pins. I do not know why EVGA changed the wiring diagram, obviously the internals on the PSU are in the same order, however the cable changed.


----------



## xerythul

EVGA, like Corsair, rebrand other manufacturer's PSU's. I believe EVGA uses Super Flower PSU's, so it was probably Super Flower that changed something, or they used a different model. Either way, thanks for double checking and the update!


----------



## Brian18741

How do you make a pinout diagram without breaking down the stock cables? I want to replace them altogether and leave them untouched for RMA reasons if it's required. I have an EVGA Supernova 1000 G2.


----------



## kpoeticg

Using a Multimeter works good. Jump your PSU between the green and any ground, then you can test the pins without removing the connector.


----------



## Brian18741

Cool thanks. Just watched a video on how to test with a multimeter, have one already luckily, will get stuck in when hone from work!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Cool thanks. Just watched a video on how to test with a multimeter, have one already luckily, will get stuck in when hone from work!


Can you throw a link up here for the video?


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Can you throw a link up here for the video?


This is the video I watched.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ac7YMUcMjbw


----------



## Barefooter

Great thank you!


----------



## Brian18741

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kpoeticg*
> 
> Using a Multimeter works good. Jump your PSU between the green and any ground, then you can test the pins without removing the connector.


Ok so I can test the voltage from each wire on the 24pin on the MB side. The problem is all the wires and black and bundled up together. How to I test the voltages on the PSU side without taking aparth the cable?

Will I have to make short cable with wires going straight from PSU connector to mobo connector and measure and record the voltages on each one? Hope that makes sense!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Great thank you!


Np dude!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Ok so I can test the voltage from each wire on the 24pin on the MB side. The problem is all the wires and black and bundled up together. How to I test the voltages on the PSU side without taking aparth the cable?


You can test the pins directly at the PSU, you don't need the modular cables


----------



## Brian18741

Sorry, call me thick but I'm not getting this!

How do I jump start it without plugging in the 24 pin (10pin + 14pin connectors in this case)?

Or will I get a result just by having the PSU plugged in?

Is there any "How to make a PSU pinout diagram" guides for this anywhere? Google is not helping for once!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brian18741*
> 
> Sorry, call me thick but I'm not getting this!
> 
> How do I jump start it without plugging in the 24 pin (10pin + 14pin connectors in this case)?
> 
> Or will I get a result just by having the PSU plugged in?
> 
> Is there any "How to make a PSU pinout diagram" guides for this anywhere? Google is not helping for once!


No - it's a good question.

Generally, to jump start a PC, you need to short the green wire (PS_ON) with a ground wire, but you don't know which one is the green wire. So I take back my statement that you don't need the cables.

Put the PSU aside for a moment. Get your multimeter and the 24 pin cable. Look at the motherboard end. The PS_ON is the 4th pin along on top row, shown in this picture. There is a ground wire on the 5th pin.



Stick one probe of the multimeter into that 4th pin on motherboard side. Then set your multimeter to test for resistance (ohms Ω). Use the other probe to search on the PSU side which wire makes a circuit with that 4th pin. Write down which one it is.

Do the same with the 5th pin on motherboard side. Write down the position. Now grab your PSU. Locate the corresponding PS_ON and ground pins on the modular sockets. Set the multimeter to test volts and connect the two pins. It should start the PSU and show something like 5 volts on the multimeter.


----------



## Brian18741

Wisk you're a legend, thanks! +rep!


----------



## WiSK

No, BigElf is the legend. I just pop in when I'm bored, while he addresses pretty much every question posted in here.

I nominated him for helpfulness http://www.overclock.net/t/1444861/nominations-the-most-helpful-people-on-oc-net


----------



## panduhsaur

I started sleeving my AX 860 psu, and I finished the 24 pin and the 8pin cpu. But I saw that there isn't any pin out for the PCIe cable, does anyone know the pin out for it or if maybe it is the same as the RM 750?

Edit: hey, if anyone is working on an AX 860, I figured out what to do.

For the 24 pin cable, follow the picture given where AX 860 is placed.

As for the 8pin mobo, and pcie follow the RM750 picture

Hope this stops some people from going through the same trouble I did


----------



## snowburn

Hello,

My question is not so related with sleeving but rather the pin outs. I have a G-550 SeaSonic power supply that I bought off a local 'craigslist' sort of thing here where I live. The dude gave me incomplete wires and have yet to respond to my messages *** is it. I must admit it was careless of me but this is my very first modular power supply, I didn't really know what I was looking at until I started building it on the PC I am trying to build. :/ My immediate concern is really just having at least one working molex connectors and then maybe I'll figure out the rest.

My question: I'm over here in Canada, I spent the whole night trying to find a reasonable or even a semi-reasonable solution for this and I think, imo, spending 30bucks for one spare modular cable (5 bucks for the wire ~25bucks for shipping) is just ridiculous. Along the seemingly endless holes/sites I've been to, I learned that it's a mistake to just get any available cable but with a different brand as the possibility of the pins not matching is very high. So now, I'm at the end of my wits and I probably need some sleep but before that... but an idea kept popping in my head every now and then, I just kept dismissing it until now. Is it really CRAZY to think or even STUPID to, say, just get a different brand cable may it be Corsair or Silverstone (these are the only brands I actually found that are reasonably easy to get a hold of while here in Canada) and re-wire just the PSU ends (the ones that would connect to the power supply) and finally deal with my problem once and for all? For visuals, I got this: http://img.ncix.com/images/93832_6.jpg

Those 6-pin ends, I noticed that they aren't really all squares when you stare at them, which is why I kept dismissing this idea. I don't see the G series pin outs here specifically but I read that more than likely, the pin-outs would be the same for any of the SeaSonic brands. I have a multimeter and I can borrow a power supply tester from a friend so I can make sure the pin outs and the outputs are consistent with the available diagrams but is it fine for me to conclude that the form factor of all 6-pin ends I see would most likely be the same as any other? I really couldn't verify that in my searches. I wish I could just rotate these pictures! heh. As well, and I think this might be the bigger problem OR not, the other end of the cables are fine as is? I mean, specifically, in the one cable that I really want to get going right away - a [6-pin PSU connector] <

> [Molex/IDE peripherals] cable. If I re-wire the 6-pin end, would I need to modify the Molex ends?????

I think I'm just too tired to really think this through and I really don't want to burn my house down - so if any one can shed some light, I would greatly appreciate it!









PS: If I didn't make any sense, please be a bit more considerate and maybe clarify. I will try my best to re-clarify it with you! I'll be better at this once I get some zzzz's. lol

Thanks again.


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, providing the connectors at the PSU end are the same you can use some manufacturers cables in your PSU. As you say the key is to change the wires around so they match your PSU pinouts and double check them.

SeaSonic use a standard 6 pin 'Auxiliary' connector which are common to many PSUs although not necessarily to Corsairs. I'd ask round and try and get some freebies to experiment with and use.

I wouldn't like to try it with a 24 pin but you're OK on that score as it's captive on your PSU.


----------



## snowburn

Yehees! Thank you very much for confirming my thoughts!

I have contacted SeaSonic as well and have been forwarded to BTOS Integration. I'll be weighing my options once they give me a quote on their shipping charges to Canada.

Thanks again, very helpful thread!


----------



## Smithcity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smithcity*
> 
> UPDATE TO EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2
> 
> So I just got a brand spanking new EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2 PSU and figured I'd use the pin-out provided on this thread. I know you guys gave the warning to make our own pin-outs but was going to ignore that. Before tearing my 24pin apart I did decide to compare 1 or 2 of the pins provided here with my cable and luck would have it...they were different.
> 
> I went through and ended up making my own diagram, see below. Some pins are the same as the pin-out provided by Thaal Sinestro, yet several were different. After I finished my diagram, I went back and checked each wire to ensure I didn't make a mistake. It turns out that while some of the diagram is different, 3.3v, 5v, 12v etc... are all there as they should, just coming from alternative pins. I do not know why EVGA changed the wiring diagram, obviously the internals on the PSU are in the same order, however the cable changed.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I modified my pin-out to more easily denote double wires, capacitors, and more importantly, wire gauges. I noticed that the 24pin cable uses 16awg, 18awg, 22awg, and 20awg. Obviously you don't want to accidentally use a 20awg wire where a 16awg wire should be used!

If anyone has a new EVGA SuperNOVA 1300 G2, I suggest verifying your pinout with my diagram. I finished sleeving, connected my ATX24 pin connector to the PSU and checked all the voltages with a multi-meter. Everything checks out, so the diagram should be good!


----------



## stickg1

How do I determine whether my Seasonic X-650 is KM1 or KM3?


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> How do I determine whether my Seasonic X-650 is KM1 or KM3?


I believe it's KM3.

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Seasonic-X-Series-KM3-650-W-Power-Supply-Review/1690


----------



## stickg1

I figured it out. Mine uses a 16pin and 10pin so it's the KM1. The KM3 uses an 18pin and has more double wires.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I figured it out. Mine uses a 16pin and 10pin so it's the KM1. The KM3 uses an 18pin and has more double wires.


Ah. Glad you got it sorted out.


----------



## Pimphare

Where can I find a pin-out for a XFX Pro Series Black Edition 850W 80 plus gold fully modular psu? I know that I have asked this here a while back and that it's based on the Seasonic X KM3 but I'm not sure if the pin-out is the same. I made up my own pin-out and now I'm in somewhat of a mess. I recently resleeved my psu cables and now I can't get it to do anything. I tried to jump it to turn on my water cooling pump to no avail. I also tried pluging in only 2 wires directly into the psu where the jumper would complete the circuit and I hear a little noise as if it wants to start up, but still nothing. I'm in dire straights here guys.







Any suggestions?


----------



## xerythul

It sounds like you need to start at square one with a multimeter andpsu-tester (if you have one). Big-elf has posted instructions a few times through the thread on how to do it but basically a piece of paper, pen/pencil and lots of patience as you go from pin to pin deducing which is which.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> It sounds like you need to start at square one with a multimeter andpsu-tester (if you have one). Big-elf has posted instructions a few times through the thread on how to do it but basically a piece of paper, pen/pencil and lots of patience as you go from pin to pin deducing which is which.


I have a digital multimeter. Will that suffice? I'll look for Big Elf's instructions. Thanks


----------



## Big Elf

As above, recheck every wire. Also with the SeaSonic series you need to jump extra pins if you connect directly to the PSU rather than use the 24 Pin Cable. I've forgotten the pin-outs for them at the moment so will need to dig out my notes on which additional pins you also need to jump.

Edit: You need to jump pin-outs 4 & 6 on the 18 Pin PSU connection and pin-outs 3 & 5 on the 10 Pin PSU connection to jump start it directly at the PSU. There's additional sensor wires on the SeaSonic KM3 platform.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> As above, recheck every wire. Also with the SeaSonic series you need to jump extra pins if you connect directly to the PSU rather than use the 24 Pin Cable. I've forgotten the pinouts for them at the moment so will need to dig out my notes on which additional pins you also need to jump.


Ok great! I just want to at least rule out that my psu isn't dead before I go through all of this. Thanks Big Elf!


----------



## Big Elf

See edit in my above post.


----------



## xerythul

Yeah absolutely, basically it's just find a ground, and check from pin to pin. He helped me a while back trying to build a pinout for a thermaltake toughpower psu. I had to go through the same crap.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> See edit in my above post.


Outstanding! Now I need to find your multimeter instructions so I can go through the pain staking coarse. +Rep

Also thank you Xerythul for your help!









Edit: Thank goodness my psu isn't dead.







I definitely goofed up somewhere with the wiring.


----------



## xerythul

Well good luck man.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Well good luck man.


I followed the SeaSonic-X KM3 pin-out and all is good now. Played a little Batman Arkham Origins for a brief system stability test.


----------



## xerythul

Glad everything worked out for you, might be a decent opportunity to use your multimeter to "test" your pinout, knowing it is correct and does work. Just in case you run into this down the road heh.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Glad everything worked out for you, might be a decent opportunity to use your multimeter to "test" your pinout, knowing it is correct and does work. Just in case you run into this down the road heh.


Very true.. or at the least learn how to do it for future reference. I'm not going to throw away my printed km3 pin-out no time soon.


----------



## Himo5

Now that I'm setting out to internally lace the 24 pin ATX cable on a Seasonic KM2 PSU it becomes important to do something about the unconnected Pin 20 - the old White(-5V) line removed from the ATX12V 1.3 and later specifications after the discontinuation of the ISA bus.

With internal lacing each wire depends for its place in the structure of the cable on the wires either side of it, which a missing wire would disrupt.

Most 24 pin extensions preserve their structural design by putting a wire in Pin 20 and leaving the connecting of it to whatever the PSU constructor has arranged in their 24 pin cable.

With most Seasonic PSUs this will be a missing wire, so a construction equivalent to an extension that goes all the way to the PSU has the problem of a wire at Pin 20 on the motherboard that has no corresponding connection at the PSU and no intervening connector to lose it in; the wire from Pin 20 has to stop at some point without connecting to anything.

In the 10-pin/18-pin arrangement with most Seasonic modular PSUs Pin 7 on the 18-pin connector is marked as Not Connected although there is a connector pin on the PSU, so it would be interesting to find out what connection this pin represents.

If it is a Ground - or dead - connection the problem can be solved by treating it as the destination connection from Pin 20, but if it may be a live line then it may be harmful - and certainly electrically unsound - to connect it to Pin 20, and inadvisable to try and anchor a sleeve to Pin 7 in which the wire from Pin 20 has been cut short.


----------



## Big Elf

An alternative is to do a dummy splice i.e. heatshrink the wire from pin 20 to another sleeved wire without making an electrical connection.


----------



## Himo5

I've just thought, actually, that the connectors from 24:20 to 18:7 could be linked with a non-conductive material, which would give me the structure I need without altering the electrical arrangement.


----------



## Big Elf

SeaSonic have recently added the XP3 Platinum 1200 to their range. Pin-outs added.


----------



## stickg1

Hey I forgot to mention. On my X-650, which looked to be a KM1, there was a double 5v (red) missing from the diagram. Unless my unit was an in between revision or something.

I do appreciate putting up the pinouts though, it made everything a lot easier. Next time I'm going to put labels on the wires and try to organize them to run with less mess, it's hard to do with a layout that's not 1:1, and I don't think I can get it perfect but I could probably make it neater. Also I still didn't get all my wires the exact same length either. I took a couple of short-cuts, that's just how I typically work though, a mix between quality and time efficiency.


----------



## Big Elf

Can you let me know the pin-out number(s) and I'll recheck although they should all be pretty much the same. After saying that this new P1200 seems to have a totally different pin-out for the 8 pin connectors at the PSU end which I'm having double checked.


----------



## stickg1

I had sleeved the OEM cables before and spliced all my double wires. So where the single end of it fell on the 24pin connector and where the double side on the 10pin+16pin fell might not have been the way it came from the factory. I just kind of went red to red, black to black, that's what I mean about having a system next time I do it because I created a bit of a spaghetti monster, lol. I have it bundled though so it still looks okay.


----------



## Big Elf

Reply from SeaSonic about the reversed pin-outs on the 8 pin connectors on the new XP3 Platinum 1200W:

'We did reverse the +12V and Ground on XP3 if you compare it with older models such as P-1000 (XP) or X-1250, X-1050 (XM).

Future Seasonic units will also follow the pin assignment for XP3.'

Something to bear in mind and watch out for in future.


----------



## pexon

EDIT: Found the info I needed. Derp


----------



## CasP3r

Does anyone in here know if the EVGA P2 1000w has the same pinout as the G2 1000w?


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> Does anyone in here know if the EVGA P2 1000w has the same pinout as the G2 1000w?


It's the same pin-outs. If you check the *cable sets* that EVGA sell you'll find they're compatible with each other.


----------



## CasP3r

I see. That particular thing never crossed my mind, thanks a lot Big Elf! You just made my custom cabling job a little easier.


----------



## Big Elf

Updated master list to add EVGA PSUs with the same pin-outs.


----------



## xioros

[Double Triple Quad Check]

The first post states that the AX850 and AX860 use the same pin layout. Other posts in this thread tell me otherwise.
Could someone confirm this please?

-Xio


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioros*
> 
> [Double Triple Quad Check]
> 
> The first post states that the AX850 and AX860 use the same pin layout. Other posts in this thread tell me otherwise.
> Could someone confirm this please?
> 
> -Xio


AX860 or AX860i?

Your sig links to an AX860i


----------



## xioros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xioros*
> 
> [Double Triple Quad Check]
> 
> The first post states that the AX850 and AX860 use the same pin layout. Other posts in this thread tell me otherwise.
> Could someone confirm this please?
> 
> -Xio
> 
> 
> 
> AX860 or AX860i?
> 
> Your sig links to an AX860i
Click to expand...

AX860 non-i.

*fixing sig*


----------



## Big Elf

The AX850 and AX860 are both made by SeaSonic and use an 18 pin and 10 pin connector on the PSU side for the 24 Pin motherboard connector.

You have to bear in mind that some people will say they're different if the same wires e.g. Ground wires got to different locations even though both those locations utilise the same type of connection. The different people who assemble the cables don't always assemble them the same way but as long as the 12V, 5V, 3V, Ground and signal cables are in the right place they'll still work. Also bear in mind that the people who did say they were different didn't bother to post their own pin-out to show the difference.

While I'm not 100% sure I'm reasonably confident they're the same but as is stated in the first post you should always make your own pin-outs and use these to double check.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xioros*
> 
> The first post states that the AX850 and AX860 use the same pin layout. Other posts in this thread tell me otherwise.


Okay, I see one post where someone claims it's not the same, and one post where someone claims it is.

Big Elf seems to provide the best confirmation, by comparing with the OEM model: SeaSonic P860 V2

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/170#post_21575156


----------



## xioros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> The AX850 and AX860 are both made by SeaSonic and use an 18 pin and 10 pin connector on the PSU side for the 24 Pin motherboard connector.
> 
> You have to bear in mind that some people will say they're different if the same wires e.g. Ground wires got to different locations even though both those locations utilise the same type of connection. The different people who assemble the cables don't always assemble them the same way but as long as the 12V, 5V, 3V, Ground and signal cables are in the right place they'll still work. Also bear in mind that the people who did say they were different didn't bother to post their own pin-out to show the difference.
> 
> While I'm not 100% sure I'm reasonably confident they're the same but as is stated in the first post you should always make your own pin-outs and use these to double check.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xioros*
> 
> The first post states that the AX850 and AX860 use the same pin layout. Other posts in this thread tell me otherwise.
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I see one post where someone claims it's not the same, and one post where someone claims it is.
> 
> Big Elf seems to provide the best confirmation, by comparing with the OEM model: SeaSonic P860 V2
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/170#post_21575156
Click to expand...

All right!
It's just that I don't want to fry my rig









Thanks!
-Xio


----------



## Big Elf

It's worth investing in a PSU tester. It's still possible to get it wrong when re-assembling (that would be me then







)


----------



## Himo5

With regard to double wires in the Seasonic 18pin/10pin PSU connectors, selecting which of the 3.3V/5V wires (which all go to the 18pin connector) to monitor seems fair enough, but has anyone checked to see if black ground wires which go to the 10pin connector can be selected instead of one going to the 18pin, since every variation of these pinouts I have seen have double wires going to the same connector as the wires they are monitoring.


----------



## pexon

Anyone have pinout for SATA and Molex for the AX1200 (NOT the 'i' version). I can't see it in the OP


----------



## Big Elf

It's relatively easy to find these with a cheap multi-meter.

With the Auxiliary connector you need to first identify the Ground wire, once you've done that it's then easy to determine the other voltages. If you put the black probe into a pin and the red probe into another then:

If it shows 0 you have identified 2 Ground connections (not all Auxiliary connectors have 2 Grounds, many have just one)
If it shows -12V you have the black probe in the 12V connection and the red probe in the ground connection
If it shows 12V you have correctly identified a 12V connection and a ground connection.

If it shows -5V you have the black probe in the 5V connection and the red probe in the ground connection
If it shows 5V you have correctly identified a 5V connection and a ground connection.

If it shows -3.3V you have the black probe in the 3.3V connection and the red probe in the ground connection
If it shows 3.3V you have correctly identified a 3.3V connection and a ground connection.

You'll need to jump start the PSU in order to use the multi-meter.

Because of the risk of serious damage to components if you get this wrong you should/must use a PSU Tester before connecting to equipment.


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Anyone have pinout for SATA and Molex for the AX1200 (NOT the 'i' version). I can't see it in the OP


I can post it up later when I get home from work if you have not figured it out by then, sorry for the delay!


----------



## pexon

Thanks for the info guys, having another wiring diagram from a fellow member would also give me some more confidence. Thanks for the helps guys!


----------



## xerythul

This is a pic of my notations. All diagram pictures are from the point of wire entry at the "back" of the plug. The numbers below are the start (psu side) and end (specific plug end side) and are read from left (psu) to right (wire end). Hope it helps. Let me know if you have any questions

And for everyone/anyone else this is for the AX1200. NOT the 1200i.


----------



## pexon

Thanks man, that is just what I needed!


----------



## xerythul

Glad I could be of assistance. Thanks really goes to big elf for promoting the concept that a person should make their own pinout diagram while following someone elses during a teardown in case stuff doesnt match up.


----------



## Friction

I've come across quite a dilemna. I was using Gait's template as a guide for my own Corsair AX760 while individually sleeving each cable at a time, but the pinout on mine is different. If you look at Gait's template linked below he has:
PSU - MB
5 - 1
8 - 2
6 - 3
7 - 4
2 - 5
1 - 6
4 - 7
3 - 8

But mine is:
PSU - MB
5 - 1
8 - 2
7 - 3
6 - 4
4 - 5
3 - 6
1 - 7
2 - 8

Can anyone confirm or deny the same pinout on a AX760 like I have? Mine is currently plugged in and working fine.
The only thing I can see that is similiar between the 2 is that all the Ground wires on the PSU side are on the top row and goes to the MB side on the bottom, and the all the 12v wires on the PSU side are on the bottom row and go to the top row of the MB. I guess as long as you have a ground going to ground and a 12v going to 12v in this particular cable, it doesn't matter. Would I be correct in assuming that?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gait*
> 
> I've made a diagram for the Corsair AX760.
> 
> CorsairAX760.pdf 4027k .pdf file


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Friction*
> 
> I guess as long as you have a ground going to ground and a 12v going to 12v in this particular cable, it doesn't matter. Would I be correct in assuming that?


Yep


----------



## Friction

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yep


Thanks


----------



## Tbenni88

OK so, this is about the 4th or 5th PSU I have sleeved, but this time it was the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2. I have finished sleeving, plugged all my wires in, and hit the power switch. That was followed by nothing. I hear the PSU click on like it normally does, but no power is outputted(no fans or lights come on). The power switch on the mobo does light up though before I hit the switch. When I sleeved, I did one or 2 at a time, so I don't think I have any in the wrong places. I will have to go back and double check. My question is this: Does it really matter where exactly the wires go, even if the voltages line up and are the same on both ends of the cable? ie (12v to 12v 5v to 5v... etc...) I ask because I put the wires back into the connectors the same way they were originally(tested before I started sleeving), but my exact locations don't match with the listed pinouts above.


----------



## Smithcity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tbenni88*
> 
> OK so, this is about the 4th or 5th PSU I have sleeved, but this time it was the EVGA SuperNova 750 G2. I have finished sleeving, plugged all my wires in, and hit the power switch. That was followed by nothing. I hear the PSU click on like it normally does, but no power is outputted(no fans or lights come on). The power switch on the mobo does light up though before I hit the switch. When I sleeved, I did one or 2 at a time, so I don't think I have any in the wrong places. I will have to go back and double check. My question is this: Does it really matter where exactly the wires go, even if the voltages line up and are the same on both ends of the cable? ie (12v to 12v 5v to 5v... etc...) I ask because I put the wires back into the connectors the same way they were originally(tested before I started sleeving), but my exact locations don't match with the listed pinouts above.


I recently sleeved an EVGA SuperNova 1300 G2, I made my own pinout before starting which ended up being different than the pinout listed in this thread. It is possible that this is the case for your 750 G2.

I'd recommend plugging the cables into the PSU, turn the PSU on (jumper the 24pin connector) then checking each individual pin with a multi-meter. I followed a similar process that you did for sleeving my 8pin VGA cables and still somehow swapped two wires around and had similar symptoms when I tried to turn my PC on that you are experiencing.


----------



## xerythul

Just make sure you use this time to troubleshoot. Back in my rookie days I used a modular cable from one psu, on a completely different psu and it fried my mobo in one second flat. learned that lesson the hard way.


----------



## Tbenni88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Smithcity*
> 
> I recently sleeved an EVGA SuperNova 1300 G2, I made my own pinout before starting which ended up being different than the pinout listed in this thread. It is possible that this is the case for your 750 G2.
> 
> I'd recommend plugging the cables into the PSU, turn the PSU on (jumper the 24pin connector) then checking each individual pin with a multi-meter. I followed a similar process that you did for sleeving my 8pin VGA cables and still somehow swapped two wires around and had similar symptoms when I tried to turn my PC on that you are experiencing.


So I took the time and checked continuity on all the wires that I sleeved and checked and double checked the pinouts for each cable and they are all fine. This is a brand new build with a brand new PSU and mobo. The PSU powers on fine when I jump it, but wont power up when I plug all the necessary wires into the mobo. Unless I have the 8pin power wired wrong, I don't know why it wont power on when I plug it into the mobo.

For the 8pin pinout, the 8pin on the PSU side, pins 5-8(clip side) are 12v and the 1-4 are ground. I mirrored that on the other end(mobo side). so the clip sides have the 12v and the other the grounds. Would it hurt to try switching them around on the mobo side?


----------



## Big Elf

Don't switch wires around and then plug them into components to test. Buy a *PSU tester* to check them. It's always a good idea to check before connecting to the motherboard as there's a possibility of damage if it's wrong.


----------



## Tbenni88

I have figured it out. I had 2 of the PCI-E 8pin wires backwards... Pins 1-3 are 12v, I had them in pin 2-4. So I just switched the 2 outside wires and now we are good. Thanks for all the help!


----------



## xerythul

Yeah it can get weird/very bad when you mix up pins directly for mobo power. I can also highly recommend getting a PSU tester also, they are relatively inexpesnvie (I paid $15 usd for mine), and very handy. Anyways glad you figured it out!


----------



## CasP3r

I'm currently making cables for my EVGA 1000W P2. On the 24-pin there's one empty spot at the motherboard end and two empty spots on the PSU end of the cable. Can I make a dummy wire between these spots to not have a missing wire messing up the looks?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> I'm currently making cables for my EVGA 1000W P2. On the 24-pin there's one empty spot at the motherboard end and two empty spots on the PSU end of the cable. Can I make a dummy wire between these spots to not have a missing wire messing up the looks?


Yes, as long as the wire itself doesn't connect anything. In the past I've used a tiny piece of heatshrink to cap the wire and make it a little thicker, then used superglue to hold the sleeve in the connector. It's a bit fragile, but if you are careful it will hold. Recently though, I just don't bother and leave the empty pins empty.


----------



## CasP3r

So just to clarify, do you mean that I can't have an actual wire with pins between these empty spots?


----------



## WiSK

I wouldn't risk it on PSU side, because there may be a live connection behind that spot on the PSU. You could use a multimeter and connect those 'blank' pins to ground and see if there's any voltage (p.d.) when the PSU is started.

The empty motherboard pin is pin #20 right? It might be expecting -5V, or it might be unconnected. Depends on the motherboard; but presuming it's a recent one, I would guess it's unconnected.


----------



## CasP3r

Umm, yes, I do believe the empty one at the motherboard side is number 20. I don't have the cable at hand right now but I remember the approximate position of the empty pin and it's most likely that one.

The motherboard is a Gigabyte Z87MX-D3H, so it's still a relatively new product. I checked the manual though and that pin seems to be expecting -5V. I've yet to make a pinout for the 24-pin, so I'll check the blank spots on the PSU while I'm doing that. Although I will most likely leave it not connected just to be safe, maybe do what you suggested with super glue or crimp the motherboard end and connect it properly but just leave the PSU end hanging in there and hide it somewhere.

Would it be safe to make the connection should I find a -5V connection on the PSU?


----------



## WiSK

Unlikely that your PSU has a -5V since that was removed from the ATX spec about 10 years ago









I thought of another idea.

Get a piece of wire. Crimp both ends to the correct length.

Then make an incision in the middle with a sharp knife, running _along_ the wire. Cut about 2cm long, making sure not to cut the whole way through, just enough to see the copper strands.

Carefully pull out the copper strands out with the tip of the knife. Now cut them, leaving a gap of 1cm-2cm without wire.



Push the strands back into the insulation. Sleeve as normal.


----------



## CasP3r

Oh.







I see.

That's actually a pretty neat way of doing that, I may have to try that. Thanks a lot for you help WiSK!


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Unlikely that your PSU has a -5V since that was removed from the ATX spec about 10 years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought of another idea.
> 
> Get a piece of wire. Crimp both ends to the correct length.
> 
> Then make an incision in the middle with a sharp knife, running _along_ the wire. Cut about 2cm long, making sure not to cut the whole way through, just enough to see the copper strands.
> 
> Carefully pull out the copper strands out with the tip of the knife. Now cut them, leaving a gap of 1cm-2cm without wire.
> 
> 
> 
> Push the strands back into the insulation. Sleeve as normal.


Crafty...all stealthy and whatnot. I like it!


----------



## pexon

Anyone have the AX1500i pinout?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Anyone have the AX1500i pinout?


Is it not the same as the AX1200i?


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Unlikely that your PSU has a -5V since that was removed from the ATX spec about 10 years ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought of another idea.
> 
> Get a piece of wire. Crimp both ends to the correct length.
> 
> Then make an incision in the middle with a sharp knife, running _along_ the wire. Cut about 2cm long, making sure not to cut the whole way through, just enough to see the copper strands.
> 
> Carefully pull out the copper strands out with the tip of the knife. Now cut them, leaving a gap of 1cm-2cm without wire.
> 
> 
> 
> Push the strands back into the insulation. Sleeve as normal.


This worked wonderfully for me, no more empty spots on my 24 pin! Great idea WiSK.









I have to say that the EVGA 1000W P2 is pretty much nightmare if you're looking for a clean look with your sleeving. 24 pin has three double wires on it and the pinout is all over the place. I think there were no cables that would go nice and straight from the motherboard to the psu.







But otherwise it's a magnificent psu so I can live with that.


----------



## WiSK

I'm really glad it worked out for you @CasP3r


----------



## fast_fate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CasP3r*
> 
> This worked wonderfully for me, no more empty spots on my 24 pin! Great idea WiSK.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say that the EVGA 1000W P2 is pretty much nightmare if you're looking for a clean look with your sleeving. 24 pin has three double wires on it and the pinout is all over the place.
> *I think there were no cables that would go nice and straight from the motherboard to the psu.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But otherwise it's a magnificent psu so I can live with that.


It is a cool idea of Wisk's








and glad it worked for you.

@cpachris has a brilliant way of dealing with non 1:1 pin outs and doubles wires.
He makes a really short extension for the PSU that deals with the doubles and cross overs.
Leaving a 1:1 plug for the extension to motherboard








Being the champ that he is, he details his method of making the short extension in his current build log - The PPPP


----------



## CasP3r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fast_fate*
> 
> It is a cool idea of Wisk's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and glad it worked for you.
> 
> @cpachris has a brilliant way of dealing with non 1:1 pin outs and doubles wires.
> He makes a really short extension for the PSU that deals with the doubles and cross overs.
> Leaving a 1:1 plug for the extension to motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Being the champ that he is, he details his method of making the short extension in his current build log - The PPPP


Thank you for bringing that up fast_fate.









I was aware of Chris' method, I've been following The PPPP since the beginning and I if I recall correctly he did similar thing with The BBBB as well. I thought of doing an extension like that myself but in the end I decided against it, even though it probably would have made the cable routing look cleaner on the motherboard end. The main reason was the shorter motherboard tray of the S5. The psu, especially when it's a longer one, extends quite far towards the edge of the motherboard tray. Therefore there isn't that much room to hide the short extension. The pinout of the P2 is also all over the place. The pinout of Chris' psu looks sooo simple compared to mine. My psu doesn't even have a clear pattern like that, the wires just seem to go wherever the heck they like. Mine is a 28-pin to 24-pin though, so that definitely adds another twist to it. So I should probably have made the extension a little bit longer to make all the connections. That combined with short motherboard tray would have meant that you could quite easily see the little extension, which in my opinion kind of defeats to purpose of doing such thing. I also wanted to have all of the cables sleeved so I decided to just deal with it.

Should I have an S8 with a longer motherboard tray for example or a case with some kind of dual chamber design where I could locate the psu out of sight, I would have definitely gone that route. I agree that it's a really nice way of dealing with weird pinouts. Although it would be even nicer if motherboard manufacturers just designed the cables to be 1-to-1 to begin with...


----------



## Himo5

I was working on something similar for a 10/18-24 PSU to be hidden under a PSU Cover some time ago, but having to incorporate double wires - and perhaps even capacitors - at the PSU end of the connection instead of at the motherboard end eventually seemed to me to be defeating what Seasonic were trying to achieve.


----------



## shakmods

Hi guys, I'm working on a Corsair AX1200i psu. Finished most of the cables but i'm stuck with the 8pin pcie cable.
can anyone confirm if there's a double wire on the 8pin pcie cable? thanks in advance


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shakmods*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm working on a Corsair AX1200i psu. Finished most of the cables but i'm stuck with the 8pin pcie cable.
> can anyone confirm if there's a double wire on the 8pin pcie cable? thanks in advance


The 1200i seems to have the PCIe and the EPS sockets shared, they all have four 12V and four grounds. Since the PCIe is three 12V and five ground, it's logical that you are going to have to double up two of the wires.


----------



## shakmods

Thanks WiSk.. i melted all the sleeve with my fingertips without heatshrink and when my fingers got hot and tired the brain stopped working lol. =)


----------



## morencyam

Hey guys, I have a quick question, and sorry if this has been asked before. I'm looking to make custom length cables for my Corsair AX850. As you may know, the PSU side has the funky 10-pin and 18-pin connectors. I looked on Lutro0's store and both 18- and 10-pin connectors are out of stock. Is there anywhere else that I can find these. I checked both PPCs and FCPU and neither have them, unless I missed them when I looked


----------



## xerythul

Well FCPU has a selection of connectors, you may have cruised through these but maybe not? I thought a quick link couldn't hurt http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g51/Connectors.html


----------



## xerythul

ModDIY also has a huge selection, you might find what youre looking for there as well. Hope either of these links help out!

http://www.moddiy.com/categories/Connectors/Modular-Connectors/


----------



## morencyam

Completely missed the manufacturer specific connectors. Thanks. +1


----------



## morencyam

One more question, and sorry for the double post. I'm looking at the pins now on FCPU and they have gold plated and non-gold plated. How necessary is gold plated over non-gold plated?


----------



## xerythul

That is a question I would love to be able to offer a solid answer to but all I really know about it is the usually heard stuff about anything gold plated. Gold is a better conductor and corrosion proof as well, but if there is no cost difference or very little difference I would just go with the gold.

If anyone else has any better, more specific evidence for or against gold plated connectors I would love to hear it!


----------



## morencyam

The gold pins are $.99 per 4 pack and non gold is $.30 per 4 pack abd I need like 120 total pins so it adds up


----------



## audioxbliss

I made a couple more detailed pinouts for the AX850. Specifically adds the PCI-E cables, peripheral ports (voltage only), and I personally think the 24-pin is clearer. All diagrams are looking toward the pin side, wire side is away.

Stock wire configuration. Numbers with a * are wires that split.


Voltage guide, PSU side only. Reference the ATX standard guide to use this. Also use with caution.


Originals available on request.


----------



## morencyam

wow, that's amazing. thank you. I was just starting to make my own very similar to that. these will be very helpful!


----------



## shakmods

Big Elf i was just making a EVGA 24pin cable with 16awg wires. i was first trying to copy the original psu but then the wires were going all over crossing each other. so i took it apart and start matching black with black, orange with orange and other colors. This should work right? i double checked it again after making it to make sure the volts were matching. It looked alot better doing this way.


----------



## xerythul

It helps to check it with a PSU checker, and a multimeter is a handy tool to have also. Most times the color matching _should_ work, but if you're moving stuff around to suit a cleaner look you really should check it with some sort of meter to make sure you don't fry your motherboard. Get a PSU tester, please please!


----------



## shakmods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> It helps to check it with a PSU checker, and a multimeter is a handy tool to have also. Most times the color matching _should_ work, but if you're moving stuff around to suit a cleaner look you really should check it with some sort of meter to make sure you don't fry your motherboard. Get a PSU tester, please please!


i have the tester but dont have the psu. making it for clients. he wanted the cables to look nice but yes he said he's gonna buy psu tester before using the cables =)


----------



## xerythul

Good yeah just check that first, or better yet find a pinout for the psu, verify the pinout against your confiug, and at least you will know youre on the right track. Always good to test before you plug in though.


----------



## abirli

are we correct in assuming the hxi series has same pin outs as axi?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> are we correct in assuming the hxi series has same pin outs as axi?


Probably, but a PSU tester is a good $20 investment to make sure


----------



## abirli

would be if i had the psu with me


----------



## Dizzmal

Does anyone have an EVGA Super Nova 1000w G1 that they have a PSU pin out for?


----------



## shakmods

can anyone help out on the pinout for sata cable for ax1200psu

i dont see the pinout anywhere..please =)


----------



## xerythul

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shakmods*
> 
> can anyone help out on the pinout for sata cable for ax1200psu
> 
> i dont see the pinout anywhere..please =)


I'll be able to post it later if no one else gets ya taken care of sooner. Sorry I can't post right now I just don't have the information handy, just wanted you to know you're not without hope!


----------



## morencyam

If it's the same as the ax850, I could give you that


----------



## shakmods

xerythul thanks. if you can get me 1 it will be great. thanks in advance.


----------



## shakmods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If it's the same as the ax850, I could give you that


i'm not sure about that. will have to ask someone who have both of the psu's about this =)


----------



## Blindfolded

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shakmods*
> 
> i'm not sure about that. will have to ask someone who have both of the psu's about this =)


I'm assuming you don't have a voltage meter?


----------



## Dizzmal

I was able to get EVGA to supply me with the proper pin out for the EVGA SuperNova 1000W G1 PSU. Thank you to EVGA tech support!


----------



## Blindfolded

That is why I'll only buy EVGA's stuff. Their customer support is great. I submitted a ticket for corsair with regards to an older supply and I just go the "we don't give out that info"


----------



## xerythul

Okay, I'm really sorry it has taken me so long to get back to you with this information but here it is... For the corsair ax1200 the sata pinout is as follows..

With everything mentioned below I am referring to the rearview, or wire entry side of the connector, always, this is _never_ in reference to the front of the connector.

On the PSU side of the wire, with the locking tab on the top, and again looking into the back of the connector at the wire entry side, the top three wires from left to right are numbered 6, 5, 4 and the bottom three wires from left to right are numbered 3, 2, 1. And when looking at the wire entry side of the sata power connector itself, with the leg of the "l" key on the right (again when looking into the back of the connector) the wires are labeled from left to right 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. They correspond to each other as follows PSU 1 to SATA 5, PSU 2 to SATA 4, PSU 3 to SATA 3, PSU 4 to SATA 2, PSU 5 to SATA 1, and PSU 6 is a blank/ does not connect at the other end (it should be an empty slot). Below I'm going to attach my best effort at a picture diagram in case any of the above is too confusing to follow.





I'm sorry if any of it is confusing, but again based on just the pictures the numbers correspond in reverse order with the 6th wire blank/empty , so 1 to 5, 2 to 4, 3 to 3, 4 to 2, and 5 to 1.

Hope this helps!


----------



## shakmods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> If it's the same as the ax850, I could give you that


thanks xerythul

thanks for that. i got a similer drawing from my customer but his drawing is totally opposite to yours.

His was like this:



I've made 1 cable and shipped his parcel out yesterday. i'm not sure if it would work now. =(


----------



## xerythul

Well I dont really know what to tell you but the pinout I provided is a direct copy of the cable that came with my ax1200 and im currently using 4 of them in my own build. I hope it works but I always advise using a power supply tester if possible. Keep us posted!


----------



## AKAMOD

Very good, but to see a lot of very dizzy：D


----------



## shakmods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xerythul*
> 
> Well I dont really know what to tell you but the pinout I provided is a direct copy of the cable that came with my ax1200 and im currently using 4 of them in my own build. I hope it works but I always advise using a power supply tester if possible. Keep us posted!


Thanks, I spoke to the customer, he'll compare it with his cables and if wrong way round he'll swap it himself. All i have to do is send him a free removel tool which i sell =)


----------



## shakmods

alright guys need another favor. anyone have pin out for the Consair CX750M power supply
need the cpu and pcie pinout. thanks


----------



## iBored

Corsair listed their custom cables for the RM series to be compatible with the HX (non-i) series.
So its safe to say the pinouts are the same right?

Does anyone know the pinouts for corsair HX-i Series?


----------



## tinus93

The same gen 2 type 3 cables as the AXi and RM series. Confirmed by corsair themself.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> The gold pins are $.99 per 4 pack and non gold is $.30 per 4 pack abd I need like 120 total pins so it adds up


These are the pins that I'm currently using. They're not gold plated and work just fine. I actually like them better than the pins I got from Lutro0 Customs. To me they're easier to get a good crimp because they don't have the longer wings/tabs like the other ones.

Edit: If memory serves me right, this will be your first attempt at making your own custom cables correct? I'd go ahead and buy a few extra pins for practice/mess ups/ease of mind just in case you need them.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pimphare*
> 
> These are the pins that I'm currently using. They're not gold plated and work just fine. I actually like them better than the pins I got from Lutro0 Customs. To me they're easier to get a good crimp because they don't have the longer wings/tabs like the other ones.
> 
> Edit: If memory serves me right, this will be your first attempt at making your own custom cables correct? I'd go ahead and buy a few extra pins for practice/mess ups/ease of mind just in case you need them.


A bit late, but thanks for the advice. And yes, this was my first time making my own cables. I ended up getting them from Frozen CPU and they worked fine. I had a couple that I had to redo, but like you suggested, I ordered plenty of extra.


----------



## Pimphare

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> A bit late, but ta=hanks for the advice. And yes, this was my first time making my own cables. I ended up getting them from Frozen CPU and they worked fine. I had a couple that I had to redo, but like you suggested, I ordered plenty of extra.


I figured I was a little late. I only responded to a month old post lol.


----------



## morencyam

No worries, I'll keep it in mind if I ever need to order more pins again.


----------



## dancedanceGG

*Cooler Master V1000*

I noticed big elfs post about the Seasonic P1000, not sure if its a mistake or not but the pin out is opposite of his for the Cooler Master V1000. (Same pinout just numbers are backwards, I used the "manual" as a starting reference so my numbers may be different but everything is where it needs to be)

The weird thing is all the cords are black. so it makes it a huge pain in the arse. but here ya go.



Let me know if anyone has any questions.








cheers


----------



## Torus15

Hi
I'm looking to change my Seasonic 760W Platium XP2 for a Seasonic 1050 Platium XP3. I was hoping that the cables I've spent hours making would just transfer over however just noticed that the pinouts for the Seasonic 1200 Watt version have all the 8 pin connectors with the 12v and earth lines swapped. Can anyone tell me if this is the same for the 1050 watt one.
Here's hopping that I don't have to extract all the PSU pins and turn the connectors around, who ever designed that extract technique needs a kick up the arse.
Thanks


----------



## Torus15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Reply from SeaSonic about the reversed pin-outs on the 8 pin connectors on the new XP3 Platinum 1200W:
> 
> 'We did reverse the +12V and Ground on XP3 if you compare it with older models such as P-1000 (XP) or X-1250, X-1050 (XM).
> 
> Future Seasonic units will also follow the pin assignment for XP3.'
> 
> Something to bear in mind and watch out for in future.


Ops just noticed this in the thread, I'll go crawl back under my stone.
Great Info here, must try looking for it.


----------



## OffTheChart

right, so I know I am going to get much flak about asking this, but I really couldn't get proper definite/visual confirmation on something

I am going to get a stock kit from an AX850 and from that, I will be salvaging some of the cables, but for the ATX/EPS/SATA/PCIE, I will be changing it to work with an AX860i

now all I could find HERE, is the image of the AX1200i 24-pin on the front page

I have cables for an AX1200i, so if they ALL work/match for the AX-i series, then I could work from there, but just couldn't find definite confirmation

so again, sorry for asking something that has probably been mentioned before









also, the RM1000 and RM650 would be same yes?


----------



## morencyam

The Spoiler on the first page states that that the AX860I, 1200I, and AX760I all have the same pinout
*Corsair 1200I, AX860I, and AX760I Full by Deafboy/TheChisel*


Spoiler: Click to Expand














http://www.overclock.net/t/1354660/ax1200i-24-pin-question/0_20

*Please note that the AX860I, 1200I, and AX760I all have the same pinout!*


----------



## OffTheChart

wait, so that was meant as in ALL CABLES as well? (facepalm)

NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the set I have is AX1200


----------



## jchap1590

I'm working on documenting the pinouts for my EVGA SuperNOVA 650 G1 power supply.. first sleeving/cabling project and I have one question: the 8-pin PCIe cable is not wired straight-thru but the pin-out is 1 for 1, am I correct in assuming I can rewire it to connect any ground together and any +12 together?

thanks for any help! I'll add the rest of the pin-outs in the next couple days.. I believe these should apply to the SuperNOVA 750 G1 as well


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jchap1590*
> 
> am I correct in assuming I can rewire it to connect any ground together and any +12 together?


Yes


----------



## jchap1590

So, how do I get this out?


----------



## WiSK

Jeweler's screwdriver, insert and twist.


----------



## morencyam

i've used a small allen wrench


----------



## aRkangeLPT

The XFX XTR 550w has the same pinout as the 650w and 750w versions?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Dumb question: When putting together the PCIE cables and such, if we do it in the same order that they are going, it's basically a 'mirror' of the PSU-side of the cable, so does that mean all the wires do a criss cross? If that's the case, to avoid as much criss-crossing, as long as we match up the 12v and grounds we should be okay for changing the arrangement?

Wording in that sucked, I've never done this wiring stuff before hehe.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Dumb question: When putting together the PCIE cables and such, if we do it in the same order that they are going, it's basically a 'mirror' of the PSU-side of the cable, so does that mean all the wires do a criss cross? If that's the case, to avoid as much criss-crossing, as long as we match up the 12v and grounds we should be okay for changing the arrangement?
> 
> Wording in that sucked, I've never done this wiring stuff before hehe.


Wording... I always think of modular cables like two sides of a door handle, but I tried to explain it that way before and probably left people scratching their heads









Basically the answer to your question is yes, but it only works nicely for PCIe 6-pins and EPS cables. Any others and it's kinda impossible to make them mirror.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I guess a good way to state it is they're Enantiomers of each other haha. (Chemistry talk).









It looks like 8 pin PCI-E are okay too, as long as you keep in mind that the 'mirror' will have a flip in it (the two extra grounds).


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> Dumb question: When putting together the PCIE cables and such, if we do it in the same order that they are going, it's basically a 'mirror' of the PSU-side of the cable, so does that mean all the wires do a criss cross? If that's the case, to avoid as much criss-crossing, as long as we match up the 12v and grounds we should be okay for changing the arrangement?
> 
> Wording in that sucked, I've never done this wiring stuff before hehe.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Wording... I always think of modular cables like two sides of a door handle, but I tried to explain it that way before and probably left people scratching their heads
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Basically the answer to your question is yes, but it only works nicely for PCIe 6-pins and EPS cables. Any others and it's kinda impossible to make them mirror.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRT-Maverick*
> 
> I guess a good way to state it is they're Enantiomers of each other haha. (Chemistry talk).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks like 8 pin PCI-E are okay too, as long as you keep in mind that the 'mirror' will have a flip in it (the two extra grounds).


You guys are correct
This confuses people so that's why I normally just tell them to do them exactly as the stock cables are, pin for pin.

But just to be clear for everyone, this only works nicely for PCIe and EPS (CPU) cables.
Reason...the 24-pin, SATA and the 4-pin molex use combinations of different voltages . +, - 12v, 3.3v, 5v, etc, where as the ESP and PCI-E cables consists of only 12v and ground wires.


----------



## DRT-Maverick

Buehler, pin for pin, you're correct it's a good way to do it. I just observed that when I do pin for pin, it's an enantiomeric mirror image of the other cable.we can flip it to mirror each other, like your hand- they are not identical, they look identical but they cannot be directly lined up and compared (just like if you line your hands up you have to flip one over so your palms are touching to get them to line up, you can't put the palm of one hand on the top of the other and get the same image).

This is a very confusing way to look at it, and it's why organic chemistry can be a pain in the butt hehe, it has a very similar concept.

Here's a quick question- i was reading 26 on my voltage meter for voltage. Shouldn't it be 12? I'm new at using these things and I have no clue what I'm doing other than following the wordless instruction pamphlet lol. Using a Klein Tools MM100.


----------



## Buehlar

What wires were you measuring?


----------



## DRT-Maverick

I figured it out I had the multimeter set wrong. I got it to read 12volt!


----------



## Buehlar

cool








Yea...nothing is supposed to read 26v on any PSU.

Also, be careful with the multimeter settings. Without the appropriate settings you can easily damage the meter and/or the hardware being measured .


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Is the pinout of the XFX PRO 750W Black Edition the same as the 850W version?


----------



## dean_8486

Is this image for the ax860i front pin side or rear side where the cable is inserted?

Thanks


----------



## Buehlar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dean_8486*
> 
> 
> 
> Is this image for the ax860i front pin side or rear side where the cable is inserted?
> 
> Thanks


Front side, just as if you were looking at the open end of the pins.


----------



## Daggi

Hi
I made myself a pin out schematics for my AXi series power supply's.
I have a AX1200i, AX860i and a AX760i but the cables are the same. Could anyone check it out and see if i have done anything wrong?

AXiseriespowersupplypinoutedited.pdf 758k .pdf file


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> Hi
> I made myself a pin out schematics for my AXi series power supply's.
> I have a AX1200i, AX860i and a AX760i but the cables are the same. Could anyone check it out and see if i have done anything wrong?
> 
> AXiseriespowersupplypinout2.pdf 382k .pdf file


Looks good to me, very concise + rep


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Looks good to me, very concise + rep


Oh that's great, thanks


----------



## eXistencelies

Hello all,

I am new here and in the process of resleeving my EVGA 850W G2. It was my first time so of course I messed up and lost the way the pins go. Luckily I found this site, but wish I did before messing up as I could have easily just made my own extension for my 24 pin ATX. So now I am in the process of putting everything back in the correct slot. Now my question is about the diagram listed on the first post..

If you noticed the person who created this may have mad a mistake, or I am just reading it wrong. Pin 5 on the 24 pin connector has 2 wires coming from it. He says down in the notes he runs 1 wire to the 12 pin on the 18 pin connector and the other wire to 13 pin on the 18 pin connector. Ok that sounds good, yea? Well getting down to pin 4 on the 18 pin connector it says that pin 5 from the 24 pin connector goes there. Well this is where I am lost. It is showing it needs 3 wires, not 2. Can anyone confirm this, please? Thanks.


----------



## WiSK

They are all ground wires, so it doesn't matter.

However, I suggest to get a cheap psu tester to confirm you have done the rewiring correctly


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> They are all ground wires, so it doesn't matter.
> 
> However, I suggest to get a cheap psu tester to confirm you have done the rewiring correctly


Well I know the stock configuration was nothing like this from what I remember. I do remember some of the paired wires going to the 10 pin as well as the 18 from the 24 pin. I almost want to just trash this and get a new 24 pin ATX cable and make my own extension one. So confusing.

Well nvm. Seems someone has already fixed it.










Woot!!


----------



## tinus93

I did that pinout and some of the cables are matched so that the cables don't crisscross everywhere like they did on the OEM cables. First revision is how EVGA delivered the cables to me and the 1.1 revision is the fixed one.


----------



## eXistencelies

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinus93*
> 
> I did that pinout and some of the cables are matched so that the cables don't crisscross everywhere like they did on the OEM cables. First revision is how EVGA delivered the cables to me and the 1.1 revision is the fixed one.


That is good to know. I appreciate the pinout for this. Never thought I would have needed it though. If I had to go back and redo this I would just make an extension with custom sleeving. I have a H440 case so the PSU is hidden as well as the cables.


----------



## parasamon

Cooler Master v1000 24pin same Pin out Seasonic km3 Yes or No?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parasamon*
> 
> Cooler Master v1000 24pin same Pin out Seasonic km3 Yes or No?


Hi, welcome to OCN









It's indeed based on KM3, and looks to have the standard Seasonic 18+10 pin sockets for motherboard. Best to get a cheap PSU tester to make sure.


----------



## bigbite76

Does any one have a pinout diagram of an antec hcp-850 that I'm to compare with?
have compared it with the hcp-1300 and there are a few pins that are different, mainly same voltages but going to a different connector on the power supply.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parasamon*
> 
> Cooler Master v1000 24pin same Pin out Seasonic km3 Yes or No?


One thing to look out for with the Seasonic KM3 X-series is that the standard CPU/EPS 8-pin connectors with two half round nozzles between two square nozzles opposite the latch won't fit on them. All the CPU/PCIE sockets on KM3 Psu's fit PCI-E 8-pin connectors with three half round and one square nozzle opposite the latch. Whenever you order these it pays to ask the supplier to check that they haven't mixed their stock.


----------



## parasamon

i have V1000, but have no cable 24Pin. .


----------



## gotrunx

Could someone please tell me how can I determine pin-out for my M12II Evo?








I could not find it anywhere, so I wanted to know what would be the easiest way to find it myself.

Thanks


----------



## morencyam

get a multimeter and check continuity


----------



## Lutro0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gotrunx*
> 
> Could someone please tell me how can I determine pin-out for my M12II Evo?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I could not find it anywhere, so I wanted to know what would be the easiest way to find it myself.
> 
> Thanks


Easiest two ways, is what the person above me just suggested and/or you can follow all the wires out and make a hand drawn diagram which is what I do on each job even if I already have the pin out just to be double sure. ALWAYS DO A PINOUT BEFORE YOU START A JOB.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

@Big Elf, you said the XFX XTR 550w are the same as the Seasonic KM2, but all the pinouts? or just the 24p cable?

I have a X-760 and i want to make cables for a XTR 550, if it was the same, would be great.


----------



## Tracti

Now this may seem like a silly question, Famous last words. I have a CM 850V power supply and I sleeved some of the original cables that came with it, some of which are doubled up, 2 wire going into the MB plug. Why is this ? if it only needs a certain voltage why the second cable ? Reason is all the double ups I did look fairly poorly compared to the single wire
Cheers in Advance


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tracti*
> 
> Why is this ? if it only needs a certain voltage why the second cable ?


Double wires are usually used by the PSU to regulate voltage droop. By measuring the resistance it can make comparisons and adjust itself. The techniques used are variations on the Kelvin Bridge.

Check Lutro0's video guides for how to sleeve double wires. (Sticky threads in this forum)


----------



## Darron

I just created a new 24pin to 18+10 cable for my Corsair AX760 so needed/Wanted to document the pins for future uses.
I also made a diagram of the 8pin EPS/CPU cable.

Both cables are only tested with the AX760

The cables for Corsair AX760 are "Type 3 Generation 2"

I borrowed some of the Graphics from Lutro0 (he started this thread)

*
24 PIN ATX to the 18+10 Modulcar connectors for the Corsair AX760 - overview of the connectors.*
Printed on the cable connector: "*650-860AX ONLY*"


*Corsair AX760 24 pin ATX connector to PSU 18 + 10 connector*
Documentations for each cable property and the correct configurations for the Corsair AX760


*Diagram for Corsair AX760 8 pinout PSU to EPS/CPU*
Printed on the cable connector: "*AX760/860AX ONLY*"
Looking in at the pins in the connectors at the ends of the cable.
EDIT: Just noticed I only depicted the CPU/EPS end of the cable! So don't go use the same wiring for both ends


----------



## Himo5

Not sure if this question has come up before, so I'll ask it, anyway. I have two identical PSUs but with 24 pin cables that have different pinouts. So how hard should I try not to mix these two cables up?


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Not sure if this question has come up before, so I'll ask it, anyway. I have two identical PSUs but with 24 pin cables that have different pinouts. So how hard should I try not to mix these two cables up?


hmm tricky. i took a brief look at the photo, does the wires all get the same voltages ?

i know i've done some corsair psus before and same sets had diffrent pin outs but were still getting same voltage.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> hmm tricky. i took a brief look at the photo, does the wires all get the same voltages ?
> 
> i know i've done some corsair psus before and same sets had diffrent pin outs but were still getting same voltage.


This. When I did my Corsair AX850, the pinout of my unit was different than the pinout listed in the OP, but the voltages and whatnot were all the same. I actually moved some wires around when I did mine so there wasn't as much crisscrossing


----------



## Himo5

Yes, the differences all lie within the voltage groups and the thin signal wire remains the same within each voltage group.

What is happening is that a different 18awg wire is being paired with the signal wire, which leaves me unsure of where and how the signal is being processed.

What I'm wondering about is the case where you build a short adapter to uncross and single everything up for an extension and whether each unit then requires its own unique adapter.


----------



## morencyam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Yes, the differences all lie within the voltage groups and the thin signal wire remains the same within each voltage group.
> 
> What is happening is that a different 18awg wire is being paired with the signal wire, which leaves me unsure of where and how the signal is being processed.
> 
> What I'm wondering about is the case where you build a short adapter to uncross and single everything up for an extension and whether each unit then requires its own unique adapter.


You mean like this? I made one for my AX850 24-pin. About 4" long, then made extensions to the needed length.
I'd assume each would not need it's own adapter. Just as long as the voltages match up and the signal wires go to the same place, it should be fine

NOTE: Not my picture. Found from another user earlier in this thread


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *morencyam*
> 
> You mean like this? I made one for my AX850 24-pin. About 4" long, then made extensions to the needed length.
> I'd assume each would not need it's own adapter. Just as long as the voltages match up and the signal wires go to the same place, it should be fine
> 
> NOTE: Not my picture. Found from another user earlier in this thread


Something like that, only a little more substantial (lol).



BTW, I've run both PSUs successfully with each others' 24 Pin cables, so it looks like the answer to my question is not very much!


----------



## abirli

Anyone have a pin out or insight on silver stone sx600-g SFX ?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *abirli*
> 
> Anyone have a pin out or insight on silver stone sx600-g SFX ?


Exactly the same as the ST45SF-G (and all other Striders fundamentally)


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Exactly the same as the ST45SF-G (and all other Striders fundamentally)


Would be awesome not to be colorblind


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darron*
> 
> Would be awesome not to be colorblind


I'm happy to adjust it. Can you pm some details about which colours are unclear for you?


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> I'm happy to adjust it. Can you pm some details about which colours are unclear for you?


I, personally, am not going to use that specific pin out, as I have different PSU.

Just that 10%, or so, of all males are colorblind... I'm not much affected in general, and know many are much worse off than me. Less than 1% (much less) of females are colorblind.

That said, all the different hues of Legend colors are really blending together.

*For colorblind people* (for those I know) it is optional to use different legends than plain different hues of colors, like:
Striped in different patterns: ie stripes horizontally or vertically. Stripes (just use 1) must be one of the prime colors or Black or White. Thin stripes or multiple stripes will make it worse.

*What I experience:*
When I look at the legend area I can see they are different colors.
When I try to match the colors to the pins however, I can't see if it a 5Vsb or -12, 3.3V or 5V or PS_On. Powr OK could be 3.3V, 5V, sense or GND
etc. You get my point









It's very hard for colorblind people to seperate different colors placed closely together, unless those colors are pure RGB and/or Black and White.

Best way would be to put a notation NeXT to each pinout, but that often Means it's less clean to look at:
Here is a pin-out I made


----------



## parasamon

Corsair AX750, AX850 & AX860

12Pin Same Seasonic


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *parasamon*
> 
> When I look at the legend area I can see they are different colors.
> When I try to match the colors to the pins however, I can't see if it a 5Vsb or -12, 3.3V or 5V or PS_On. Powr OK could be 3.3V, 5V, sense or GND etc. You get my point


Yes, I understand now. I will make it in a different way where it doesn't rely on the colours to explain the function of each pin.


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Yes, I understand now. I will make it in a different way where it doesn't rely on the colours to explain the function of each pin.


----------



## lmarklar

Didn't see this in the previous pages, granted I didn't read through all 51, only checked the front page. But if anyone is updating the main post still, here is the pinout for the EVGA 1000w G1


----------



## Dizzmal

Yeah I posted it a while back.


----------



## dennis97519

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> *SeaSonic X-Series KM2 - X-560, X-660, X-760, X-850*
> 
> As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.
> 
> Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.


For me the purple and black wires are twisted. Does it matter if I untwist them?


----------



## Metatr0n

Since I'm doing a full cable-mod on my Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W Black, I thought I'd share it with you guys, so Lutro0 can add it to his repository.

Super Flower is using their own patented 3x6, 3x4 and 3x3 connectors!

In the picture, you are actually looking at the front of the connector.



Edit: Corrected the pinout


----------



## gdubc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> Since I'm doing a full cable-mod on my Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W Black, I thought I'd share it with you guys, so Lutro0 can add it to his repository.
> 
> Super Flower is using their own patented 3x6, 3x4 and 3x3 connectors!
> 
> In the picture, you are actually looking at the front of the connector.


I have the 1200w but I haven't torn into it yet. How are those connectors to work with?


----------



## Metatr0n

The Super Flower connectors are well designed but pretty stiff, it's a bit fiddly to insert the pin-remover. Also when sleeving, you can't pull your sleeve over the crimped piece because the connector narrows down at this point and the sleeved cable won't fit in anymore. Your sleeve has to stop before the crimp.



Every cable has those wanna-be-filter-caps on it, I removed them on the PCIe Cable and I'm going to remove them from the EPS and ATX, too.

Since you, Lutro0 already told us what you think about the caps on the PCIe Cables, it would be nice to learn what you think on those caps that are soldered to the 8 pin EPS and 24 pin ATX cable.

I wanted to make a general discussion thread about this topic (since all I can find are scrattered discussions in different PSU-threads) to let you guys know what I think think about this topic and of course to learn what you guys have in mind.


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> The Super Flower connectors are well designed but pretty stiff, it's a bit fiddly to insert the pin-remover. Also when sleeving, you can't pull your sleeve over the crimped piece because the connector narrows down at this point and the sleeved cable won't fit in anymore. Your sleeve has to stop before the crimp.
> 
> 
> 
> Every cable has those wanna-be-filter-caps on it, I removed them on the PCIe Cable and I'm going to remove them from the EPS and ATX, too.
> 
> Since you, Lutro0 already told us what you think about the caps on the PCIe Cables, it would be nice to learn what you think on those caps that are soldered to the 8 pin EPS and 24 pin ATX cable.
> 
> I wanted to make a general discussion thread about this topic (since all I can find are scrattered discussions in different PSU-threads) to let you guys know what I think think about this topic and of course to learn what you guys have in mind.


I wouldn't recommend removing the capacitors... Especially on your PCIe.

They are there to prevent surging and act as a ripple filter. Will it work without them? Sure. Is there a chance that you'll see weird and random errors due to dirty power without them? Yup. If they put the caps on the line, then more than likely they did not put them in the case, and you need them in one or the other. If you really want it to be clean, move the caps to down inside the case, should be pretty easy and it will keep the protection for your components. Just google decoupling capacitor and read the resulting info.
For anyone who recommends removing them. Have they tested these power supplies with transient loads? Or with the components surging? Did they put a oscilloscope on each power line after they removed all the caps? I haven't done any digging on this subject as I have no intention of modding a power supply to that extent, but I'm an electronics tech and I can tell you I would get fired if I removed filters from the power supplies on the equipment I work on


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> The Super Flower connectors are well designed but pretty stiff, it's a bit fiddly to insert the pin-remover. Also when sleeving, you can't pull your sleeve over the crimped piece because the connector narrows down at this point and the sleeved cable won't fit in anymore. Your sleeve has to stop before the crimp.
> 
> Every cable has those wanna-be-filter-caps on it, I removed them on the PCIe Cable and I'm going to remove them from the EPS and ATX, too.
> 
> Since you, Lutro0 already told us what you think about the caps on the PCIe Cables, it would be nice to learn what you think on those caps that are soldered to the 8 pin EPS and 24 pin ATX cable.
> 
> I wanted to make a general discussion thread about this topic (since all I can find are scrattered discussions in different PSU-threads) to let you guys know what I think think about this topic and of course to learn what you guys have in mind.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> I wouldn't recommend removing the capacitors... Especially on your PCIe.
> 
> They are there to prevent surging and act as a ripple filter. Will it work without them? Sure. Is there a chance that you'll see weird and random errors due to dirty power without them? Yup. If they put the caps on the line, then more than likely they did not put them in the case, and you need them in one or the other. If you really want it to be clean, move the caps to down inside the case, should be pretty easy and it will keep the protection for your components. Just google decoupling capacitor and read the resulting info.
> For anyone who recommends removing them. Have they tested these power supplies with transient loads? Or with the components surging? Did they put a oscilloscope on each power line after they removed all the caps? I haven't done any digging on this subject as I have no intention of modding a power supply to that extent, but I'm an electronics tech and I can tell you I would get fired if I removed filters from the power supplies on the equipment I work on


I must say I agree completely with this answer by *lmarklar* to the capacitor issue. On all accounts and based on the same points raised here.

I found it a very.. odd practice to place them on the cables and not inside the PSU case. Didn't know anyone did that to be honest.
Is this because the PSU they ordred didn't meet their requirments so they retrofitted these?

edits: to remove image and clear up quotes


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darron*
> 
> I must say I agree completely with this answer by *lmarklar* to the capacitor issue. On all accounts and based on the same points raised here.
> 
> I found it a very.. odd practice to place them on the cables and not inside the PSU case. Didn't know anyone did that to be honest.
> Is this because the PSU they ordred didn't meet their requirments so they retrofitted these?
> 
> edits: to remove image and clear up quotes


I wonder if they are placing them closer to the components due to the high frequency response times (which causes "Capacitor Whine"). Maybe being closer to the components changes the filter range just enough to reduce whine. Would just be a guess, but when you're measuring response times in the nano seconds I'm betting every inch counts!


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> I wonder if they are placing them closer to the components due to the high frequency response times (which causes "Capacitor Whine"). Maybe being closer to the components changes the filter range just enough to reduce whine. Would just be a guess, but when you're measuring response times in the nano seconds I'm betting every inch counts!


I can't comment on it really, as it would just be a guess on my part. If it was a valid point it does seem strange that some other major manufacturers, OEM etc. isn't doing the same.

I can see how they could spin some major marketing on this with big fat letters on the box









Many lower quality, and some higher quality, PSUs that people are complaning about isn't really suffering from Capacitor whine, but really are suffering from not-enough 'glue' to stabilize components.

It's fun about the whole "whine" thing as everyone and his mother are complaining about whine now and then, but go back 10 years and nobody would know what you talked about








I have a Corsair AX760 (non-i with seasonic innards) and before that I had some modular Silverstonetek (SFF) and before that a Corsair HX620. None of them had any whine I could hear.
Some even complained that the Graphics Card I have, EVGA 750 ti SC, suffers from whine. Actually only seen 1 or 2 complain, but I sure as heck can't hear it... so it makes one Wonder about this whine "issue".

edit: clarifications and errors


----------



## Metatr0n

To make it clear in the beginning, I didn't just blindly cut them off, I spent an entire day with researching into that matter and I found hundres of threads on different forums with opinions that ranged from "just cut them off, it doesn't matter" to "DON'T DO IT OR YOUR PSU WILL EXPLODE!!!".

I will give you the facts:

1. At 3dguru they tested a PSU with caps on the PCIe cables -> no ripple, without the caps on the PCIe cables -> ripple barely noticeble with an oscilloscope
2. The PSU itself has many capacitors inside for ripple reduction, so the reason they put it on the end of the cable is to prevent ripple that can occure on the way between the PSU and the graphicscard
3. Based on point 2, moving the caps from graphicscard-side to PSU-side totally destroys the effect of the caps
4. Based on point 2+3, putting a sleeved extension cable on the cables totally destroys the effect of the caps
5. Based on point 2+3+4, a lot of users use extension cables on those cables or cut them off in the sleeving process and didn't notice any difference in graphics-performance at all
6. Even a PSU manufacturer that uses caps on their cables offers their very own sleeved extensions in their webshop, so based on point 2+3+4+5, this thing is BUSTED

Why do I think this is a marketing-scam?
Because a manufacturer of a high-end PSU that costs 190+ € advertizes that only high grade Nippon Chemi-Con capacitors are used for highest quality and best ripple reduction/suppression, but then for a "so important MLG360noscope-feature" they cheap out on CapXon capacitors?
For me this has the big fat headline "We want to do marketing but we actually don't want to spend *that* much money for it"

That the PSU or the graphicscard will die when removing the caps? Utter bull**** in my opinion, because even the best high-end graphics-cards are designed to even work with the worst china-cracker-PSU and a Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W is one of the best PSUs when it comes to ripple suppression, so even without the caps on the PCIe cables, the ripple will still be much lower than on a china-cracker.

As far as real-life-experience goes, Lutro0 already cut off hundreds of capacitors even for customer-builds and even the customers that did their very own testing on the hardware said that they were able to detect marginal differences to no difference at all.

Like I said, that was the reason why I wanted to make a very own thread for this topic, so everyone can state their experiences on that topic. (And I mean experience, not "I THINK YOUR PSU MIGHT EXPLODE!!!")

The only thing I wasn't able to find any good information on is the caps on the ESP- and ATX-cables. But to be honest, I don't really expect a valid reason for them to exist either.

Edit: minor changes


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> Why do I think this is a marketing-scam?
> Because a manufacturer of a high-end PSU that costs 190+ € advertizes that only high grade Nippon Chemi-Con capacitors are used for highest quality and best ripple reduction/suppression, but then for a "so important MLG360noscope-feature" they cheap out on CapXon capacitors?
> For me this has the big fat headline "We want to do marketing but we actually don't want to spend *that* much money for it"


Think you hit it head on. Not saying it because I know this particular PSU, but the whole concept seems.. odd.

Anyway, it is possible to get shielding brading if needed. Mostly to shield USB noise though, but I guess they can be usefull for other applications.. or marketing scams


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> To make it clear in the beginning, I didn't just blindly cut them off, I spent an entire day with researching into that matter and I found hundres of threads on different forums with opinions that ranged from "just cut them off, it doesn't matter" to "DON'T DO IT OR YOUR PSU WILL EXPLODE!!!".
> 
> I will give you the facts:
> 
> 1. At 3dguru they tested a PSU with caps on the PCIe cables -> no ripple, without the caps on the PCIe cables -> ripple barely noticeble with an oscilloscope
> 2. The PSU itself has many capacitors inside for ripple reduction, so the reason they put it on the end of the cable is to prevent ripple that can occure on the way between the PSU and the graphicscard
> 3. Based on point 2, moving the caps from graphicscard-side to PSU-side totally destroys the effect of the caps
> 4. Based on point 2+3, putting a sleeved extension cable on the cables totally destroys the effect of the caps
> 5. Based on point 2+3+4, a lot of users use extension cables on those cables or cut them off in the sleeving process and didn't notice any difference in graphics-performance at all
> 6. Even a PSU manufacturer that uses caps on their cables offers their very own sleeved extensions in their webshop, so based on point 2+3+4+5, this thing is BUSTED
> 
> Why do I think this is a marketing-scam?
> Because a manufacturer of a high-end PSU that costs 190+ € advertizes that only high grade Nippon Chemi-Con capacitors are used for highest quality and best ripple reduction/suppression, but then for a "so important MLG360noscope-feature" they cheap out on CapXon capacitors?
> For me this has the big fat headline "We want to do marketing but we actually don't want to spend *that* much money for it"
> 
> That the PSU or the graphicscard will die when removing the caps? Utter bull**** in my opinion, because even the best high-end graphics-cards are designed to even work with the worst china-cracker-PSU and a Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W is one of the best PSUs when it comes to ripple suppression, so even without the caps on the PCIe cables, the ripple will still be much lower than on a china-cracker.
> 
> As far as real-life-experience goes, Lutro0 already cut off hundreds of capacitors even for customer-builds and even the customers that did their very own testing on the hardware said that they were able to detect marginal differences to no difference at all.
> 
> Like I said, that was the reason why I wanted to make a very own thread for this topic, so everyone can state their experiences on that topic. (And I mean experience, not "I THINK YOUR PSU MIGHT EXPLODE!!!")
> 
> The only thing I wasn't able to find any good information on is the caps on the ESP- and ATX-cables. But to be honest, I don't really expect a valid reason for them to exist either.
> 
> Edit: minor changes


I never said "YOUR PSU WILL EXPLODE!!!" I said I don't feel that it's a good idea, and it's not based on what you yourself said from your research. If an oscilloscope showed extra ripple when the caps are removed then there is ripple, period, no matter how small. Ripple is bad, especially on sensitive components. Like I said before, will it work? Probably. Is there a chance that you will see problems? Yup, maybe a small chance, but the PSU was designed to run with them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> 2. The PSU itself has many capacitors inside for ripple reduction, so the reason they put it on the end of the cable is to prevent ripple that can occure on the way between the PSU and the graphicscard
> 3. Based on point 2, moving the caps from graphicscard-side to PSU-side totally destroys the effect of the caps


Moving the capacitor to the end of the line inside the PSU would be good, it would make a difference compared to completely removing them. If it's acting as a high frequency filter, it won't be quite as effective due to the difference in line length, but it will still function. If it is acting as just a decoupling capacitor? Then it still makes a large enough difference for it to be advisable.
Capacitors are like the batteries on a car, they aren't there to take the full load of the system, that's what the alternator (PSU) is for. They are there to smooth out any sudden surges that the card requires because the voltage regulator can't keep up with fast demands. The reason to have some on the end of line is probably because the closer to your source the decoupling capacitors are, the more stable your voltage is. It's probably a combination of reasons, high frequency filter, closer to your draw is better with decoupling capacitor and as a filter placed on the end of the line it will be able to reduce interference / noise that your lines may have picked up from outside interference since there is no ground shields on power wires.

To me it doesn't make sense that someone would spend $200+ on a PSU and then say "They were BS'ing, they don't need these!!" and cut components out. It's like buying a new BMW and then ripping the muffler off..... Personal opinion.
It's your PSU and it doesn't matter to me if you want to cut them out completely, I'm not here to argue with you about it and more than likely you'll be fine, but the correct information needs to be out there on what they are doing also. Not just "Bob said it worked!". I'm sure that there are a couple of electrical engineers who can probably chime in with more specifics and maybe they can look at the layout of the PSU and say definitively that it won't hurt anything.

I've seen sleeving jobs where the caps were left in, didn't look horrible and there might even be a way to hide them aesthetically, but to each their own!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> Like I said, that was the reason why I wanted to make a very own thread for this topic, so everyone can state their experiences on that topic. (And I mean experience, not "I THINK YOUR PSU MIGHT EXPLODE!!!")


and if by experience you mean, 10+ years as an electronics technician doing component level repair, sure, I've got experience. I've repaired all kinds of equipment that someone said "doesn't need that!". Until the one day it did. Some ran fine for years, some just degraded to the point that you could tell something wasn't right, but were still functional and some encountered that 1 in a 10000 chance that the protection was installed for and blew up because it was removed. Moral? It was designed that way for a reason. Maybe it's a long shot reason, but it's there.


----------



## Himo5

*Imarklar*
Quote:


> It's probably a combination of reasons, high frequency filter, closer to your draw is better with decoupling capacitor and as a filter placed on the end of the line it will be able to reduce interference / noise that your lines may have picked up from outside interference since there is no ground shields on power wires.


Mulling over what you said here, would wrapping the wire with copper or ally foil under the sleeving obviate the need for device-side capacitors/double wires if it could be grounded?


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> *Imarklar*
> Mulling over what you said here, would wrapping the wire with copper or ally foil under the sleeving obviate the need for device-side capacitors/double wires if it could be grounded?


I can't answer wheter it would do the trick, but instead of copper or alufoil you might want to use some conductive brading instead.
I have thought about using this for internal USB cables due to noise + my onboard audio = bad combo.


----------



## WiSK

Capacitors can be added to modular cables when the manufacturer has a minor revision. Such additions do not offer fundamental functionality, but it's something like transient response improvement, ripple (low pass) or noise (high pass) filtering. If a revision is more serious to the function of the PSU, then not only must the revision go inside the PSU, but also the PSU is retested by Underwriters Labs and Ecova before it can be certified for sale in North America and Europe.


----------



## lmarklar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> *Imarklar*
> Mulling over what you said here, would wrapping the wire with copper or ally foil under the sleeving obviate the need for device-side capacitors/double wires if it could be grounded?


It would alleviate any outside interference, but would not replace a capacitor on a power supply cable. As Daron said a ground shield on a wire is best used on signal cables that require no noise. Make sure you only ground one side of the shield, no ground on either side = might as well not have it, grounding both sides = ground loops, might as well not have it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Capacitors can be added to modular cables when the manufacturer has a minor revision. Such additions do not offer fundamental functionality, but it's something like transient response improvement, ripple (low pass) or noise (high pass) filtering. If a revision is more serious to the function of the PSU, then not only must the revision go inside the PSU, but also the PSU is retested by Underwriters Labs and Ecova before it can be certified for sale in North America and Europe.


This I didn't know, but makes a lot of sense, thanks!


----------



## Metatr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> I never said "YOUR PSU WILL EXPLODE!!!" I said I don't feel that it's a good idea, and it's not based on what you yourself said from your research.


I really don't know why you got so upset about that, I never quoted you and nothing in my posting was directed at you. But if the shoe fits, put it on.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> If an oscilloscope showed extra ripple when the caps are removed then there is ripple, period, no matter how small. Ripple is bad[...]


Every PSU, no matter how expensive it is or how many japanese high-grade capacitors it uses, every PSU has ripple. And without the caps on the PCIe cables, the ripple is still lower than on 60-70% of the PSUs that hundreds of reviewers tested and still said they were good, gave them a high rating and recommended them for customers. So basically what you say is that all those PSUs with good ratings are all rubbish because there is ripple. Ok...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> Moving the capacitor to the end of the line inside the PSU would be good, it would make a difference compared to completely removing them. If it's acting as a high frequency filter, it won't be quite as effective due to the difference in line length, but it will still function. If it is acting as just a decoupling capacitor? Then it still makes a large enough difference for it to be advisable.




That is the connector PCB and those capacitors you see there already filter the lines, what sense does it make to filter again 2 cm behind it and then put 60 cm of cable on it that *might* introduce some ripple? The capacitors are in parallel and their only purpose is to filter the ripple to the max, so they should stay as close the graphicscard as possible. Putting them to the PSU side, where already filter caps are installed like you see in the picture, leaves the cable-side of the graphicscard unfiltered which is basically the same as if the filter caps don't exist at all.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> If it is acting as just a decoupling capacitor? Then it still makes a large enough difference for it to be advisable.
> Capacitors are like the batteries on a car, they aren't there to take the full load of the system, that's what the alternator (PSU) is for. They are there to smooth out any sudden surges that the card requires because the voltage regulator can't keep up with fast demands.


I'm sorry, up till now I didn't provide that information, but the caps are actually 2200µF so that won't work. Silverstone for example explained that they are neither decoupling capacitors, nor ripple-filters but merely just filter out buzzing noise that *can* occure with some graphicscards-combination.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> To me it doesn't make sense that someone would spend $200+ on a PSU and then say "They were BS'ing, they don't need these!!" and cut components out. It's like buying a new BMW and then ripping the muffler off..... Personal opinion.


That tells me that you're looking at me and the topic from a wrong angle. I understand the reason and the technical functionality behind a muffler and you can't compare it to this case. A proper comparison would be a rear-spoiler on a FWD-car. It looks nice, gives results "in theory" and on the paper but practically, in the real world, it makes no sense.

The worst result on removing the caps was measured on the Antec Truepower Quattro 1200W on the 12V-rail:

-With caps: Δ 29.0 mV
-Without caps normal: Δ 24.0 mV (better than with caps...)
-Without caps worst: Δ 71.0 mV

And that was not even ripple, it was only a higher tolerance on voltage. ATX-Standard defines a Δ of +/- 0.6V on the 12V-rail, so even with the worst result ever reached, we're still only 11.8 % off of the optimum.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lmarklar*
> 
> and if by experience you mean, 10+ years as an electronics technician[...]


No, I actually mean someone with practical experience regarding the PCIe-caps-topic. I don't doubt your competence as an electrician but without testing it yourself to get real-world-results, it's nothing more than assumptions. And that's what makes me angry, because there is a handfull of people that actually tried it themselves and they say "Look it worked, no difference in the real-world-results!" but there is a ton of people who did *no testing at all* and only believe that theoretical stuff in the books and what the marketing-departments of the PSU-manufacturers dictate them and they say "Oh no, you shouldn't do it, they are there for a reason!". Yes, the reason is called marketing. Except you want to discuss the biochemical reaction on the body after drinking Sapporo's super healthy Diet Water







:


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> Capacitors can be added to modular cables when the manufacturer has a minor revision. Such additions do not offer fundamental functionality, but it's something like transient response improvement, ripple (low pass) or noise (high pass) filtering. If a revision is more serious to the function of the PSU, then not only must the revision go inside the PSU, but also the PSU is retested by Underwriters Labs and Ecova before it can be certified for sale in North America and Europe.


Very valuable information!







Didn't know this and never heard about it either


----------



## lmarklar

I wasn't mad. I was responding to a direct response to my earlier posts, there wasn't anyone else responding so what was I supposed to assume? The response was a general statement directed at people who haven't even posted? Eh, semantics. Either way, I'm not mad at you man









Like I said, it's your power supply, I don't care if you mod it, I just didn't want someone posting "These capacitors do nothing, feel free to remove them!" as it is erroneous information. They do something. Whether you think they help or not is your opinion, but before people make a decision they should have all of the information.

Here is a good read on the theory and why us "Book thumpers" are saying it's probably a bad idea. Capacitor filters ect

Your last post has had more good info than most other posts. I can see why you say it's ok to remove them. Again, I personally wouldn't. But to each their own.

I'm going to stop hijacking this thread for this discussion now, if you like feel free to PM me and we can continue the discussion, or open a new thread and shoot me a link and we can chat there, I enjoy a good debate, whether I'm proved wrong or right, the fun is in the conversation!








I've had to go back and do my own homework and brush up a bit just for this little bit, it's always nice to learn new stuff and refresh old knowledge!


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> No, I actually mean someone with practical experience regarding the PCIe-caps-topic. I don't doubt your competence as an electrician but without testing it yourself to get real-world-results, it's nothing more than assumptions. And that's what makes me angry, because there is a handfull of people that actually tried it themselves and they say "Look it worked, no difference in the real-world-results!" but there is a ton of people who did *no testing at all* and only believe that theoretical stuff in the books and what the marketing-departments of the PSU-manufacturers dictate them and they say "Oh no, you shouldn't do it, they are there for a reason!". Yes, the reason is called marketing. Except you want to discuss the biochemical reaction on the body after drinking Sapporo's super healthy Diet Water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Good comment. Must admit I'm a bit like that when it comes to PSUs.
Not the "you shouldn't do that" kind of guy though, but proper caution must be taken


----------



## Metatr0n

I had to correct the pinout for the Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000W, had a typo in it which I just realized now.

The double-wire from PCIe to PCIe goes from D2 -> 5.


----------



## pexon

Can anyone confirm the EVGA G2 pinout fits the G1 version? There is no info in the OP


----------



## abirli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pexon*
> 
> Can anyone confirm the EVGA G2 pinout fits the G1 version? There is no info in the OP


I don't think so, they're listed as two diff sets on evgas website.


----------



## amdblack

hey im new to the whole modding and sleeving of power supplys and im looking for the pinout for the mushkin semi modular 580watt power supply dose anyone have or know were i can find the pinout diagram ?


----------



## delslow

So, if I'm reading this right, all Seasonic semi-modulars now use the same pin-outs? I have a 650W Seasonic G-Series that is not listed here. I have emailed Seasonic, but they haven't got back to me yet.

edit: Seasonic got back to me with their "confidential" pinouts for my PSU. Does anyone more savvy than me, want them so they can add it to the master list?


----------



## Darron

Seems the Corsair AX 760 I made on page 50 hasn't been added to the first post.
Just a reminder.


----------



## WiSK

Perhaps message Lutro0 directly, he's not been so active lately.


----------



## Metatr0n

I also messaged him directly because my Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000W wasn't added either but up till now, no response.


----------



## Darron

I'm in the process of redressing a small 310w ATX to power a small 3D printer and came across a capacitor placed with one leg in the PWR_OK (pin 8) and the other leg in GND (pin 7).

I have tried googling it, but came up with nothing.

I know the PWR_OK is there to tell that it (the ATX psu) is good to go.

Anyone know what the capacitor is for? Can I just remove it and connect the pins directly or should I connect them via the small capacitor?


----------



## Zinic

Quick question. I have the EVGA Supernova G2. Looking at the pin layout, do I connect, say, +5V to +5V on the other end?


----------



## Metatr0n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darron*
> 
> Anyone know what the capacitor is for? Can I just remove it and connect the pins directly or should I connect them via the small capacitor?


Some pages ago I already posted a long post about the capacitors on the PSU cables, you may want to read it first.
Different PSU manufacturers use different explanations on why those caps are there but everyone uses the same ones with the same capacity, in my opinion it's pure marketing-bull****.
I removed all of the caps on my custom cables and up till now my system is running without any problems. My PSU didn't explode and my graphic card is still intact.

I can't even think of a plausible explanation on why a cap has to bridge the PWR_OK because the voltage on that wire doesn't need to be filtered or anything.

Edit: Just wanted to link you to my posting here


----------



## Darron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> Some pages ago I already posted a long post about the capacitors on the PSU cables, you may want to read it first.
> Different PSU manufacturers use different explanations on why those caps are there but everyone uses the same ones with the same capacity, in my opinion it's pure marketing-bull****.
> I removed all of the caps on my custom cables and up till now my system is running without any problems. My PSU didn't explode and my graphic card is still intact.
> 
> I can't even think of a plausible explanation on why a cap has to bridge the PWR_OK because the voltage on that wire doesn't need to be filtered or anything.
> 
> Edit: Just wanted to link you to my posting here


I actually have read that post









I asked as my capactior is between the PWR_OK (pin 8) and a GND/COM (pin 7) which I found rather odd. (I also mentioned that in my post with my question







)

It's a really low end noname PSU at 310 watt. Actually pretty high amp on the 12volt, so might not be _that_ low end, but it sure doesn't proclaim itself as something special.

I ended up taping the wires and capacitor up tight, but I would really like to jus remove it allthogether as I have shortened up everything else.


----------



## bigbite76

Pin out for a Antec HCP-850 Platinum here. If someone would be able to verify it that would be great.


----------



## bkvamme

Just some info for other members.

The Fractal Design Newton R3 1000W has 1:1 pinout on all cables except the modular PCI-E cables. Got this confirmed with Fractal Design support.
Quote:


> On Mon, 20 Apr at 1:01 AM , bkvamme wrote:
> Hi, Are there any double connections on the motherboard/PCIe cables? I.e, does any of the pins on the 24pin/6+2 plug have two cables connected to them, or are there one cable per pin? Also, what is the pinout for the modular cables? Is it 1:1, or are there double connections here aswell? Also, what is your warranty policy with regards to customers sleeving cables? Thank you!


Quote:


> Hello,
> 
> On the modular PCI-E cable there are two leads connecting to one pin on the power supply side.
> Other than that cable all others are 1:1.
> 
> Kind regards
> XXX


Looks like a good PSU, only downside is that it is only semi-modular. However, for the price, 80PLUS Platinum, and a 9.4 at jonnyguru.com, I can live with that.


----------



## casp

Hey Everyone,

I got the sleeve bug since I have a new build. I got a Corsair 860i and started on the 24 pin cord first since it takes the longest. This is my first time doing this and one rookie mistake I made was not labeling the wires as I went along so there is a little bit of confusion.

All of the cables are still originally connected on the PSU side. I made another diagram of exactly where the numbers are from the direction seen in the example.



Forgive me if this is a stupid question but how are the cables connected from one side to the other? If you have pin 1 on the PSU, do you connect it to pin 1 on the mobo side? I did not make any connections because I was afraid that for example pin 1 might be originally connected to pin 3 on the other side and so on.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casp*
> 
> Forgive me if this is a stupid question but how are the cables connected from one side to the other?


The pinout for the 1200I, AX860I, and AX760I is in the first post of the thread. The photo shows wire voltages by colour, and the pencil & paper diagram (front view, looking into the pins) shows which number MB pin connects to which number on the PSU.


----------



## casp

I did see and have gone over that, but it was just a bit confusing and I wanted to make sure that I was along the correct lines. Thanks again.


----------



## 3nki77

bonjour!

je recherche un schémas de branchement atx 20+4 pin motherboard vars 14pin psu et 10pin psu ?

hello!
I want a connection diagrams ATX 20 + 4 pin motherboard and vars 14pin psu 10pin psu?

cordialement
cordially


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *casp*
> 
> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I got the sleeve bug since I have a new build. I got a Corsair 860i and started on the 24 pin cord first since it takes the longest. This is my first time doing this and one rookie mistake I made was not labeling the wires as I went along so there is a little bit of confusion.
> 
> All of the cables are still originally connected on the PSU side. I made another diagram of exactly where the numbers are from the direction seen in the example.
> 
> 
> 
> Forgive me if this is a stupid question but how are the cables connected from one side to the other? If you have pin 1 on the PSU, do you connect it to pin 1 on the mobo side? I did not make any connections because I was afraid that for example pin 1 might be originally connected to pin 3 on the other side and so on.
> 
> Thanks for your help!


You can also download a .pdf document that I made for my AXi series if you like

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/460_20#post_23120508


----------



## casp

Sweet! Thanks!


----------



## Tracti

Hey all little stuck going to cheat and order some cable for my mates rig for him just carnt seem to find what type of plug type they are, the psu is a Silverstone Strider Plus 850W ST85F-P, and looking to get the cables from cable mod and they don't list this model wondering if anyone knows if this is compatible with other psu cable types, cheers


----------



## Path Finder

Hi all!

I am totally new into this sleeving thing and i´m about to order tools and materials.

I have read through the faq but i still want to ask some questions. I am so sorry if i this has already been answered or i just appear to be plain stupid. I just want to be 100% sure on what i am doing when i am doing it. I am not worried about the sleeving part or double wire thing even though they look to be a bit of a hassle.

The things i am wondering are the following.

1). On the beginning of the FAQ there is a picture of the pin side view, this one: 

Does pin side view mean when i look directly onto the pins? Like this: 


2). If have understand it all correctly according to the pins. The motherboard side is always the same like the first picture in my post. But the PSU makers have no standard in the wiring. And what i have to do is to match easily speaking the right color/number from PSU against the connector going into the motherboard using the pin layouts based on the specific PSU.

3). If i am making an extension. A 24 pin one. How do i know which cord goes where so i don't double cross the wires? All i have found is this picture: 

Thanks!


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Path Finder*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> I am totally new into this sleeving thing and i´m about to order tools and materials.
> 
> I have read through the faq but i still want to ask some questions. I am so sorry if i this has already been answered or i just appear to be plain stupid. I just want to be 100% sure on what i am doing when i am doing it. I am not worried about the sleeving part or double wire thing even though they look to be a bit of a hassle.
> 
> The things i am wondering are the following.
> 
> 1). On the beginning of the FAQ there is a picture of the pin side view, this one:
> 
> Does pin side view mean when i look directly onto the pins? Like this:
> 
> 
> 2). If have understand it all correctly according to the pins. The motherboard side is always the same like the first picture in my post. But the PSU makers have no standard in the wiring. And what i have to do is to match easily speaking the right color/number from PSU against the connector going into the motherboard using the pin layouts based on the specific PSU.
> 
> 3). If i am making an extension. A 24 pin one. How do i know which cord goes where so i don't double cross the wires? All i have found is this picture:
> 
> Thanks!


1. Yup, that's pin view.
2. Correct here aswell. The motherboard follows the ATX standard.
3. If you are only making an extension, you can just to 1 to 1 wiring. I.e, Connect a wire from pin 1 on the male connector plug to pin 1 on the female connector plug. As long as you do this, you cannot go wrong.

The tricky part comes when you want to create fully custom cables, using the pinout on the PSU (if modular PSU).


----------



## Path Finder

Thanks for the quick reply! Really appreciated








Then i know at least that i am on a good track!


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Path Finder*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply! Really appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then i know at least that i am on a good track!


No problem. If you are making a extension from scratch, I would recommend cutting, crimping and sleeving all the 24 wires first, and then put them in place afterwards. It might help to plug the male plug in the female plug if you are unsure. Extensions sure make it easy, wish I had space for it 

If you are sleeving a purchased extension, the failsafe method is to sleeve one cable at a time, although this might take a bit longer.


----------



## Path Finder

Sorry for my late reply. I see its good to know i take all the help/information i can find ^^

I also found this article with some pictures relating to other connector types: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/power-supply-specifications-atx-reference,3061-9.html
and this page: http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/connectors.html

Are the article correct regarding other pinouts and the page as well?

So i can make my own extensions by following my PSU chart like the ones on the first page of this thread.


----------



## tistou77

hello

I use Stealth Combs for the 24pins,



With a Seasonic P760, some wires are doubled (2 wires on the same pin side MB and 1 wire per pin side PSU), and I can not make to pass the sheath of the "double wire" in the hole in the Stealth Combs
I tried deleting a wire that was doubled, the PC works fine, but this "double wire" used for smoothing voltage?

If I "shunt" the side of the power supply (to keep only 1 wire side MB), it's good?
Like that



Thanks for your help


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> hello
> 
> I use Stealth Combs for the 24pins,
> 
> 
> 
> With a Seasonic P760, some wires are doubled (2 wires on the same pin side MB and 1 wire per pin side PSU), and I can not make to pass the sheath of the "double wire" in the hole in the Stealth Combs
> I tried deleting a wire that was doubled, the PC works fine, but this "double wire" used for smoothing voltage?
> 
> If I "shunt" the side of the power supply (to keep only 1 wire side MB), it's good?
> Like that
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your help


Yes, the modified version will work fine. Removing the double all together is possible, but not recommended as it might cause the PSU to deliver power out of the specifications. The dual cables are there for a reason, no PSU manufacturer would use more wiring than they have to.

Edit: Lutr0 covered this in his sleeving FAQ.


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bkvamme*
> 
> Yes, the modified version will work fine. Removing the double all together is possible, but not recommended as it might cause the PSU to deliver power out of the specifications. The dual cables are there for a reason, no PSU manufacturer would use more wiring than they have to.
> 
> Edit: Lutr0 covered this in his sleeving FAQ.


Thanks for your reply, I will use the Lutr0 method, but I do not have a soldering iron and of tin, if I "kink" the wires and I put the heat shrink, it's good?


----------



## bkvamme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tistou77*
> 
> Thanks for your reply, I will use the Lutr0 method, but I do not have a soldering iron and of tin, if I "kink" the wires and I put the heat shrink, it's good?


As long as you are able to intertwine the two cables, it should work if you heatshrink it. Depending on the size of your heatshrink, you might want to consider using some electricians tape (flexible PVC tape) between the heatshrink and cable just to make sure that the second cable does not slip out. Having a loose cable could be very bad









Try to pull on the cables afterwards just to make sure aswell. The solder isn't just there to improve conductivity, it also helps to hold it inplace.


----------



## tistou77

Modification done and I think it's good.









By default, the 12v was at 12.18v, when I removed the "double wire", I had the 12v at 12.39v and with the modification, it's returned to 12.18v
The next time that I "disassembles" the PC, I think I'll put of the "crimp" modified

Thanks for your help


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Just a heads up, HCP 750 Platinum Power supplies have a different power connector configuration


----------



## Adict

Hello guys I need help , I buy a new GPU and now I have 1x6 pin power and 1x8 pin power from PSU to GPU . My old GPU have 2x6 pin power connector and I sleeve them .
Now I want sleeve for new gpu that 2 more wire what gpu need . Can somebody give me or tell me where i must put this 2wire in my psu 8 connector . PLS help








I want sleeve that today







I must sleeve 8pin psu to 8 pin . PSU TO GPU ..


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adict*
> 
> Hello guys I need help , I buy a new GPU and now I have 1x6 pin power and 1x8 pin power from PSU to GPU . My old GPU have 2x6 pin power connector and I sleeve them .
> Now I want sleeve for new gpu that 2 more wire what gpu need . Can somebody give me or tell me where i must put this 2wire in my psu 8 connector . PLS help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want sleeve that today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I must sleeve 8pin psu to 8 pin . PSU TO GPU ..


The two extra wires on the 8-pin connectors are both ground, so if you let us know exactly which PSU you have, probably there is an easy solution for finding two more ground wires.


----------



## Adict

I have XFX XTR 550W modulas PSU . I sleeve one wire and plug at the both connector at the same place , and GPU works fine . So i hit first one


----------



## Adict

Pls help . 8 pin psu to 8 pin gpu . XFX XTR 550w .


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adict*
> 
> I have XFX XTR 550W modulas PSU . I sleeve one wire and plug at the both connector at the same place , and GPU works fine . So i hit first one


You have two PCIe plugs on the PSU side. Those are big 12-pin connectors with the top row is 12V and the bottom row is grounds. So instead 12-pins to 2x6, you could make 12-pins to 8 and 12-pins to 6.

At PSU side, see left most diagram, *view from rear of connector*


At GPU side 8-pin connector is bottom drawing, *view from front of connector* (the blue and green pins are ground)


----------



## u25a0

Greetings one and all!
My name is Ender, long long time lurker, first time poster.
I was introduced to the modding community many years ago by a previously very active member, colleague and very close friend who went by Langer. Unfortunately he passed away a few years ago and left a big hole in everyone's lives. Some of you may remember his PrometheusCU and Helios case mods, among others.

I still work and operate the company once founded by Langer -Society Inc- and we're still working on a bunch of very cool tech projects. One of our projects requires TWO very serious PCs for the development of a next generation type VR/AR headset akin to what you may have seen from Hololens/MagicLeap/GoogleGlass.

_I'm going to be doing a project log in the coming months reviving Langer's Helios case mod_... a little homage to my old buddy. I've worked with his family to get some very similar 8mm thick carbon panels, like those used in his project log years ago. I've updated and improved his drawings and designs. As well, I've ordered all the hardware already... and I'm at over $60,000cad into this project now already.

The hardware list of the two machines is as follows, The First is going to be pretty standard in terms of it's construction and will live in a rackmount case, very little modding here:
x1 - Asus - Z10PE-D8 WS Motherboard
x2 - Intel Xeon - E5-2687 V3 Processors
x8 - Kingston - 16GB ECC DDR4 RAM Stick
x3 - Evga - Titan Z 12GB Graphics
x1 - Samsung - SM951 256GB M2 Drive
x8 - HGST - HE8 8TB HardDrives
x1 - Asus - PCE-AC68 Wificard
x1 - Asus - Xonar Essence Soundcard
x1 - Evga - 1600w Titanium PSU
x1 - Case - Rugged Rackmount

The second is going to be something pretty special, and will be the topic of discussion with my questions further below:
x01 - Asus - Z10PE-D8 WS Motherboard [130w]
x02 - Intel Xeon - E5-2690 V3 Processors [300w]
x08 - Kingston - 16GB ECC DDR4 RAM Stick [36w]
x03 - Radeon - R9 Dual Fury X 8GB [unreleased] Graphics [1600w]
x01 - Samsung - SM951 256GB M2 Drive [5w]
x08 - Corsair - Neutron XT 960GB SSDs [50w]
x01 - Asus - PCE-AC68 Wificard [15w?]
x01 - RME - HDSPE AIO Soundcard [20w?]
x02 - Supermicro - PWS-2K04A-1R 2KW Power Supplies [2000w out]
x01 - Turemetal - TL240 240W PICO ATX Power Supply [240w out]
x12 - Noctua NF-A14 Industrial PPC-3000 Fans [100w incl pumps]
x01 - VERY CUSTOM Case, lots of Watercooling.








total - ~2256w under absolute max load (likely more ~1750watt under heavy operating load)

I've opted to use two rackmount 1U server style hot-swap power supplies, in this case they deliver 2000w at 230v, (1000w at 120v), of 12v power, rated 80+ titanium.
They look a little like this: http://i.imgur.com/xl3AgwC.jpg
(note that there are no wires, these PSUs use 'gold finger connections')

SO this brings me to my specific system, I've drawn a rough map below:


Here's a little Langer inspired teaser, a totally updated and revised Helios mod plan in keeping with his aesthetic style:
This is just a little taste, but communicates the parts layout well enough, the long pink rectangles in the bottom are the Supermicro PSUs. Note that in total we have only 10 wires going to the motherboard and GPUs for power. Also all the connections for power (and data) are built right into the chassis for total modularity.


As you can see I want to run the two 2kw 12v PSUs in parallel, which will drive the various 12v components of the build.
They also power a very small 240w DC-DC ATX power supply that will provide the various voltages for the motherboard, as well as the necessary 5V for the SSD Sata drives.

The order of business here is wire reduction, I plan on eliminating the normally standard ~167 wires needed to power all my gear and cooling down to just 30wires.

1) I haven't had anyone say anything to the contrary as yet in regards to bridging like wires. For example, the 24pin ATX connector only consists of 8 different connections... if the necessary current is provided for is there any reason I cant just jump all the connections throughout the built and minimize the wire count (as shown in my diagram)?

2) Same goes with the 6x and 8x pin 12V connections on the motherboard, I would like to jump all these together and run just 2x wires from the PSU. In the case of the 12v GPU power lines, I've seen the 2-wire mod done before: http://imgur.com/a/LEG2L
Full build log here: http://community.thermaltake.com/index.php?/topic/1426-australia-stuart-tonks/

3) I know almost nothing about these server style power supply units, there's a great about them that's still a mystery to me. I've reached out to Supermicro, who asked me to sign an NDA in exchange for some documentation... but I found very few answers to the deeper question. I see a lot of reference to current sharing in one document, and there is a loadshare pin (ishare) as well as a wake-up bus pin that seem to be related to this but can be ignored, can anyone help me better organize the necessary circuit and connections to make this work?
I got some feedback from reddit that tells me ishare simply needs to be joined on each psu, and I've seen a vague wire diagram that eludes that wake-up-bus works the same (although I suspect wake-upbus requires some additional circuitry between each psu).

4) In the case of the +5v standby out from the Supermicro units, it's my thinking that i should bridge these lines and run the current to the motherboard; ignoring the 5Vsb from the Pico PSU. Same goes with the DCGOOD wire, I'm thinking that I should bridge and run it to the motherboard as well, in place of the pico.

Please take a look at my diagram above, let me know if I've done anything glaringly wrong... I'm sure I have, as I mentioned I have no idea how to force a current sharing situation with these units so it's all guesswork. Any little bit of input would no doubt be of huge help!

Thanks in advance.
*e


----------



## crafty615

for the EVGA 850 pinouts, since the 8 pin doesnt have numbers in ( ) like the 24 pin, does that mean that the 8th pin slot on the psu side goes into the 8th pin slot on the other side?


----------



## SimonOcean

Guys,

I had not found a pinout schematic for my Power Supply: the (relatively) new Corsair RM1000i. So I did the work myself. I've saved the work and am happy to share it with you all / the Overclock.net community. Many of you have helped me, so it is good karma to give something back! Maybe some of you will find this useful.

(As a health warning. I have triple checked this data, but I will not take responsibility for any errors or omission. You use this data at your own risk. One thing I was not sure about was the definitions of the writing on top of the SMD capacitors. If anyone else reading this has a correction, please let me know and I will update the source document.).

See attached. - Simon.

Corsair RM1000i pinout schematics


----------



## Kinru

Does anyone have the pinout for the EVGA 550 GS (or know if it is the same as the 650, 750, 850 etc)?


----------



## JR23

This thread, i r8 8/8 no db8 m8. GG all round. Repped Lutro and the Elf of gr8 magnitude.

Re-pinned the cables Pexon made for my AX860 Platinum and made a few more to fit a Seasonic 1200W XP3. If anyone is ever curious I can confirm that the 24-pin is identical but the others are all different. 8-pins are all switched top for bottom and use a PCIe block at the PSU end. Peripheral connector pinout is also different between the Corsair and Seasonic units (both Seasonic OEM).




























JR


----------



## parasamon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JR23*
> 
> This thread, i r8 8/8 no db8 m8. GG all round. Repped Lutro and the Elf of gr8 magnitude.
> 
> Re-pinned the cables Pexon made for my AX860 Platinum and made a few more to fit a Seasonic 1200W XP3. If anyone is ever curious I can confirm that the 24-pin is identical but the others are all different. 8-pins are all switched top for bottom and use a PCIe block at the PSU end. Peripheral connector pinout is also different between the Corsair and Seasonic units (both Seasonic OEM).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> JR


----------



## jinxedx84

I cant seem to find anything on the EVGA 1000 PS (220-PS-1000-V1). Looking for a pinout. I could have sworn it was here before?...... maybe not. Thanks in advance for any help


----------



## paulyoung

Does anyone know of a guide for the SuperFlower leadex Gold 1000W ? Or if they are at least single pinned/wired , or if they have any of those dreaded joins?


----------



## Jacklim

Does anyone have the pinouts for Silverstone strider gold series 750w?


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> Does anyone have the pinouts for Silverstone strider gold series 750w?


It'll be the same as all other Silverstone Strider models. Follow the chart in the OP for the SilverStone ST65F-G 650W


----------



## xerythul

Hey Elf i wanted to share some findings with you. I am sleeving up an AX860 (the non "i" version) and the pinout guide lists it as being the same as the ax750/850 when it actually is based on the seasonic km3. I have a pinout i drew up based on the oem wires and i'll try to get some time to send it over to you. Thought i would bring it to your attention!


----------



## Jacklim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> It'll be the same as all other Silverstone Strider models. Follow the chart in the OP for the SilverStone ST65F-G 650W


I have double checked the psu cables.The mobo side 24pin connection is correct. But there are no double wires in pin 23 for the psu side connection. Instead,i have double wires in pin 23.
I am a little afraid to use the pinout.


----------



## WiSK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jacklim*
> 
> I have double checked the psu cables.The mobo side 24pin connection is correct. But there are no double wires in pin 23 for the psu side connection. Instead,i have double wires in pin 23.
> I am a little afraid to use the pinout.


That double wire is not vital to the proper functioning of the PSU. It just helps the unit fine-tune the 5V line (for technical explanation, google Kelvin Bridge). For any Strider, you can safely leave out double wires on 5V. It will not only work properly, it will stay within ATX2.4 specifications.


----------



## Jacklim

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WiSK*
> 
> That double wire is not vital to the proper functioning of the PSU. It just helps the unit fine-tune the 5V line (for technical explanation, google Kelvin Bridge). For any Strider, you can safely leave out double wires on 5V. It will not only work properly, it will stay within ATX2.4 specifications.


Thanks for the explanation







I will google it up after i finish my school project.


----------



## Revoluzion Tech

Hey guys,

Just wanted to share repository pin outs for SuperFlower Leadex Silver 550W - SF-550F14MT

24 pins have 3 double wiring. For the pcie and eps connectors, they are one to one, they are not universal among each other as it is seperated on the psu itself and requires identical connectors for it. For example, pcie connectors on the psu will only fit pcie connectors and would not fit the EPS connectors.

Picture for pin out attached.

Tested and all works fine, however we would not be liable for any wrong doings done, rest assured we had triple check the pin outs and tested with PSU tester and works well.

We will be doing the 650w silver and the gold series version as well soon, however the gold series which uses acrylic transparent type connectors are unique, they are 3 rows instead of 2 rows basic connectors used. Basically we would have to re-use the original connectors that came with it.

SuperFlower-Leadex-Silver-550W---SF-550F14MT.jpg 105k .jpg file


Any questions, feel free to PM me.

Thanks,
Revoluzion Technologia


----------



## Mystriss

I hope this is the appropriate location to ask this.

I just got an EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2 to replace my old SilverStone ST1200 which doesn't have enough amps on the 12v line to power my GPUs (it's not the new/current SST-ST1200) I'm trying to kind of "future proof" my rig for later upgrading.

Now, I've heard that the EVGA uses 16awg vs the typical 18AWG. While I've read that I should be fine with running 18awg extensions for my connections, I'm redoing all my cable work either way so I figured I would use 16awg on my GPUS easy enough and the EPS cable as well, but the 24pin connector is a concern because my build will have a flat ribbon ("Corsair Style") cable straight off the MB then immediately under it with as little wire showing as possible.

Also of note/considerations, I'm looking at upgrading in a few years, atm my upgrade of choice woudl be an asus x99-we w/i7, which uses more power off the MB. I believe the m.2 ssd uses power off the PCIe and I intend to get one off those as well (which GPU's tax PCIe onboard power a bit already yea?) So now what about the 24pin connection? As I understand it the EPS powers the CPU, so does the mean that the 24pin power's the PCIe's?

If the 24pin powers the PCIe's then could I just go 16awg on the 12v lines and grounds, and leave the rest at 18awg, or would I need to do the whole cable in 16awg? You can do sense wires in 22awg yea?, so am I right in presuming that the 3.3 and 5v cables could be done in 18awg no problem? And/or that 16awg would never be necessary on those wires?

_UPDATE_: a detailed study of EVGA's stock cables answered a lot of my questions above - they mix 16, 18, 20, and 22 gauge for various reasons, so it's clearly okay to mix the gauges as they did to make my 24pin MB ribbon cable "thinner." They also use 22awg off the psu for sense, 3.3v, 5v, and one of the 12v wires so I think as long as I match their stock gauges I should be good. EVGA however doesn't recommend extensions as the added length interferer's with resistance and such so I'll have to make some adjustments. (Still wondering about the following question, if any computer engineer/PCB studier happens to know if there's a set pathway for the PCIe slot power (like the 12v pin #10 on the connector feeds PCIe slots 1 and 3 or w/e,) that'd be great, then I could just make sure to put 16awg on those.)

As an... alternate solution, maybe, I've found a gizmo by EVGA that basically plugs a molex straight into an unused PCIe slot and powers the PCIe lane on the MB just like a direct molex on the board would. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OTXUYU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00) A few trusted reviewers have indicated that while it's likely unneeded they do find it smooths out the power flux on PCIe lanes in crossfire etc. So I figured it couldn't hurt and I went ahead and got one, so the secondary question is, if I've got this thing plugged in on the MB, should I still switch over to 16awg on the 24pin or no?

~ Basically I'm trying to limit the width of the 24pin cable so it doesn't interfere with the connections of other plugins near the 24pin, I don't want any "stacked" ribbons wrapping around the edge of the mb. Like a lot of MB's have the 2.0 USB plug right next to the 24pin and stuff, I just don't want to run into a stacking issue with later upgrades. AKA I'm being picky heh


----------



## alltheGHz

Hello all, I need some help with the pinout on my EVGA G2 750.

Correct me if I am wrong, but A) the EPS (CPU) cable is linear (just goes straight across)?
B) I can cross a 12v and a 12v, same with a ground and a ground?
C) whatever is on the "PSU" side I mimic on the "component" side?

Please help me out with this!


----------



## Mystriss

Alright I got my EVGA SuperNOVA 1600T2 and I'll be remaking all the cables for it so I'm doing detailed pin outs. Here's the complicated 24 pin MB cable so you don't have to cut off /your/ stock EVGA sleeve to figure it out heh



The caps are all on the MB connector side and there are no duals on the PSU connector side. I've also included the stock wire gauges since EVGA mixes 16, 20, and 22.

I've got the info for the others, just need to make the charts, will post those in a day or so.


----------



## Himo5

Great chart. I'm assuming that the PSU connector diagrams, like the Motherboard connector diagram (and unlike the charts at the start of the Repository) are showing the nozzle-side (or front) of the connectors rather than the wire-side (or rear)?

Edit: Oh, now that I look at it more closely I see that the PSU connector diagrams are showing the wire-side view!

Edit in response to Post 587 (below):
Ok. The connector diagrams in Post 585 (above) are now all nozzle-side (front) views and the two previous comments in this post should be disregarded by anyone preparing to act on them without reading further.


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> Great chart. I'm assuming that the PSU connector diagrams, like the Motherboard connector diagram (and unlike the charts at the start of the Repository) are showing the nozzle-side (or front) of the connectors rather than the wire-side (or rear)?
> 
> Edit: Oh, now that I look at it more closely I see that the PSU connector diagrams are showing the wire-side view!


Awk... I suppose I should at least make them both wire side or peg side... I used a generic 24pin diagram instead of making my own connector image from scratch and didn't even think that they were showing different sides lol Will fix the PSU side to the "nozzle-side" view right now heh

Update: I've put the corrected image in my post. Thanks for catching that and I'm sorry about any confusion, I'd been up over 30 hours


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

can anyone tell me why the 1200i has a shared 3.3V to mobo pin #13? i dont think it is standby or anything... is it necessary to jumper PSU pin #20 to pin #13 as shown in the diagram?

seems like i could just wire PSU #13 to mobo #13 and not run a #20 at all...

 

@Lutro0, @deafboy ?


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> can anyone tell me why the 1200i has a shared 3.3V to mobo pin #13? i dont think it is standby or anything... is it necessary to jumper PSU pin #20 to pin #13 as shown in the diagram?
> 
> seems like i could just wire PSU #13 to mobo #13 and not run a #20 at all...
> 
> 
> 
> @Lutro0, @deafboy ?


I ran it one-to-one without the shared split. No idea why they had it. In my experience its not necessary.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> can anyone tell me why the 1200i has a shared 3.3V to mobo pin #13? i dont think it is standby or anything... is it necessary to jumper PSU pin #20 to pin #13 as shown in the diagram?
> 
> seems like i could just wire PSU #13 to mobo #13 and not run a #20 at all...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Lutro0, @deafboy ?
> 
> 
> 
> I ran it one-to-one without the shared split. No idea why they had it. In my experience its not necessary.
Click to expand...

thanks! that's what I thought, just couldnt find any confirmation... or any reason why corsair would make their harnesses like that


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> I ran it one-to-one without the shared split. No idea why they had it. In my experience its not necessary.


So no issues doing it that way? I need to resleeve my 1200i and it'd be great not to split that wire.


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> I ran it one-to-one without the shared split. No idea why they had it. In my experience its not necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> So no issues doing it that way? I need to resleeve my 1200i and it'd be great not to split that wire.
Click to expand...

read: interesting thread on the matter

it appears that pin #20 used to be -5V in a previous revision of the ATX spec, but was removed ~15yrs ago. therefore, pin #20 is not longer used in most modern motherboards. I can't believe this topic has not come up in this thread already... seems super-relevant

i am currently resleeving my entire case. not done yet, but i will let you know if anything fries when i turn it on


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoostrC0gburn*
> 
> read: interesting thread on the matter
> 
> it appears that pin #20 used to be -5V in a previous revision of the ATX spec, but was removed ~15yrs ago. therefore, pin #20 is not longer used in most modern motherboards. I can't believe this topic has not come up in this thread already... seems super-relevant
> 
> i am currently resleeving my entire case. not done yet, but i will let you know if anything fries when i turn it on


I'm sorry, I'm kind of confused... I was talking about pin 13 split. Lol I haven't used pin 20 in a long time.


----------



## deafboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kgtuning*
> 
> So no issues doing it that way? I need to resleeve my 1200i and it'd be great not to split that wire.


I haven't had any issues and everything checks out on the multimeter so I'd say go for it.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deafboy*
> 
> I haven't had any issues and everything checks out on the multimeter so I'd say go for it.


Excellent, thanks for the information. I actually need to extend my cables, hopefully 36 inch cables don't cause any issues.


----------



## eucalyptus

Do anyone has, or know where I can find the wire diagram for a Super Flower leadex 850 watt??

Have been trying to find one for hours.

I sleeved my 24 pin cable and made some mistakes. I ended up with a full 20 pin and only 3 cables in the 4 pin.

Then I found some guy in this thread had a diagram for the 1000 watt. But when I compared his diagram to my it seems I haven't a single cable right - which to me seems very suspicious.

So please, anyone?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metatr0n*
> 
> Since I'm doing a full cable-mod on my Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W Black, I thought I'd share it with you guys, so Lutro0 can add it to his repository.
> 
> Super Flower is using their own patented 3x6, 3x4 and 3x3 connectors!
> 
> In the picture, you are actually looking at the front of the connector.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Corrected the pinout


Hey, from what direction have you designed the pinout? From the back or front?

Is it the same for the 850 Watt platinum?

I guess it's like this, upside down from the front?


----------



## RickRockerr

Is there any info if AX760 and AX760i have the same pinout? I have ax760 and I'm going to sleeve the 24pin cable tomorrow. If I cant get a confirmation I'll make my own wiring diagram and post it here or just compare it to the wiring diagram of a 760i.


----------



## kendallkoh

Anyone have the pinout for Superflower Leadex Gold 750W?


----------



## kendallkoh

I'm looking at my spare cpu cable.
The double wires seem to come out from 1 and 6 on the PSU side, but your diagram indicated 2 and 6 position.

But mine are Leadex Gold 750W. Would that be the reason for the difference?


----------



## alltheGHz

No I don't, sorry, but try emailing one of their representatives?


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alltheGHz*
> 
> No I don't, sorry, but try emailing one of their representatives?


Already tried... No answers after a week! And it says on their page somewhere something like "we are here for you, we listen" - yeah sure.


----------



## mundivalur

Hi here is a fast drawing i made sometime ago
looking at the front of the connectors
superflower Leadex GOLD 650W 80 Plus Gold i did go over the Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W drawing and they are the same
just the numbers 1-12 are different on the drawings


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Hi here is a fast drawing i made sometime ago
> looking at the front of the connectors
> superflower Leadex GOLD 650W 80 Plus Gold i did go over the Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W drawing and they are the same
> just the numbers 1-12 are different on the drawings


So to clear things out - this is not the same layout/pinout as the leadex platnium 1000 watt?

I do really wonder which ones of the psu has the same pinout. I really really really need the pinout for the 850 watt platinum - and it has to be the right one


----------



## mundivalur

they use the same cables, my drawing/pin out (650w) is the same as this 1000w pla.


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> they use the same cables, my drawing/pin out (650w) is the same as this 1000w pla.


Not to be annoying now. But, I had a quick look and instantly noticed one thing that differ them between. Look at your pinout, number 13 from 24 pin goes to the bottom of the psu connector - it doesn't match with the positions of the other pin out layout...

Which one is correct


----------



## mundivalur

the difference is in the 1-12 on the 24pin connector my 1-12 turns the wrong way compared to the other drawing


----------



## RickRockerr

Here's a wire diagram for Corsair AX760 24pin. I'll add 8pin cpu power and 6pin pci-e if I find them (did the diagrams about 2 moths ago but forgot to post them).


----------



## mundivalur

The new Corsair AX760/860 and AXi/HXi/RM use the same modular cables except the 24pin


----------



## kendallkoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Hi here is a fast drawing i made sometime ago
> looking at the front of the connectors
> superflower Leadex GOLD 650W 80 Plus Gold i did go over the Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W drawing and they are the same
> just the numbers 1-12 are different on the drawings


when you say the front, ..

is it the side where you put the pins?
or..
the other side?


----------



## kendallkoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> they use the same cables, my drawing/pin out (650w) is the same as this 1000w pla.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Hi here is a fast drawing i made sometime ago
> looking at the front of the connectors
> superflower Leadex GOLD 650W 80 Plus Gold i did go over the Super Flower Leadex Platinum 1000 W drawing and they are the same
> just the numbers 1-12 are different on the drawings


Not sure if im understanding right.
But this looks like a different pattern.

Are some of the wires interchangeable?
It is the same pattern for some, but not all.

Edit: Ok, i understand better now.

As long as i plug the correct colour from the PSU side to the ATX side it should be fine?
(As well as on the 15 loop or the 24 loop side)


----------



## mundivalur

Yea if you follow the colors then you should be fine


----------



## kendallkoh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Yea if you follow the colors then you should be fine


Sry just to check. So.. i dont need to follow the numbers. just the colours?


----------



## mundivalur

You can use both but usually it just takes some time to learn how to read the drawings







all the mistakes you will make will only help you learn more
Start with the colored drawing and see how that goes


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> they use the same cables, my drawing/pin out (650w) is the same as this 1000w pla.


Hi again Sir!

Took a further look on my pci express cable to gpu , already discovered issues!

I made a quick pinout on my phone:


If you compare mine to the other one you can clearly see my cables isn't the same as his! And I know I am right about my cables because they are directly out of the box.

So something isn't right here, very weird. Hope you can see what I mean.?


----------



## mundivalur

For the gpu cables you just need to think of 12v(yellow) and ground (black) the wires just need to go to the right colors yellow to yellow and it does not matter if they cross or go straight
the Superflower cables are not the easiest to start learning because of double wires and small loop wires
you also need to know how the connectors are turning on the drawings, i think on your drawing i am seeing the back side where the wires go in but the other drawing with the colors you are looking at the front of the connectors (not where wires go in)
I hope that explains it haha this this has taken me years to learn so i know it takes time to learn and after many mistakes you will learn
Mundi Icemodz


----------



## eucalyptus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> For the gpu cables you just need to think of 12v(yellow) and ground (black) the wires just need to go to the right colors yellow to yellow and it does not matter if they cross or go straight
> the Superflower cables are not the easiest to start learning because of double wires and small loop wires
> you also need to know how the connectors are turning on the drawings, i think on your drawing i am seeing the back side where the wires go in but the other drawing with the colors you are looking at the front of the connectors (not where wires go in)
> I hope that explains it haha this this has taken me years to learn so i know it takes time to learn and after many mistakes you will learn
> Mundi Icemodz


No, it's both from the front side, but they are upside down compared to the other one.

First is the psu contact, the other two is the gpu contact 2x6 (it is 6+6+2).

Ok, will give it another try. Try after colours instead of numbers. But still, my differ from the others, could it be a fault from factory?


----------



## mundivalur

The gpu cable wiring can be different from the factory, like if they are making a new batch of cables the only thing that matters is that yellow goes to yellow(12v) and black to black(ground)
http://prntscr.com/8zopgg


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

workin on the last couple cables here... AX 1200i GPU cables

i have already depinned the stock cables to reuse the connectors, and stupidly forgot to make a diagram. i am making cables for the GPUs now, so we are only talking about PCIE connectors.

can someone please tell me if the +12V and GND wires invert? check out the diagram:


*at the PSU,* you can see GND is on the "latch side" of the connector, and +12V are on the "non-latch" side.

*at the GPU* (other end of the cable) will GND still be on the "latch side" of the cable? or should I have +12V on the "latch side" ?


----------



## mundivalur

Yes ground is on the top on both sides


----------



## RoostrC0gburn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Yes ground is on the top on both sides


Thank you so much! damn, i love this community


----------



## Favorito

Is it possible for the pinout from the XFX serie XTR will be the same for the 550w/650w/750w ?


----------



## mundivalur

Yes that is 100% the same pin out








Mundi Icemodz


----------



## jarn

Hello all,
Here is my pinout for the seasonic M12ii 750W Evo (http://seasonic.com/product/m12ii-750-evo/)


----------



## Daggi

Hey all

I cleaned up my schematics for my AXi series pin-out. Is there anyone that got time to see if it's all OK?









http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/450_30#post_23120508


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Anything for the RMi series?


----------



## dave g

just bought an EVGA G1 650 supernova,all black wires and black modular connectors..oh the joys lol.

i checked with a multimeter and the atx pins were all messed up like spaghetti(they were in the correct pin places for voltage but not for neatness) so i made a quick paint job showing where they went to on mine if it helps anyone.

the numbers in white on the outside are the numbers on the plastic connector as it plugs into the psu,the numbers on the inside on the pins tell you which pin position they went into on the other end of the cable that goes to the mobo.


----------



## parasamon

RMi Series

CPU / VGA / Power SATA / Same AXI

CPU With Capacitor +2 Pin


----------



## butzgalore

do you guys have a diagram for 8pin pcie diagram for seasonic x650km3 please? tia!


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *butzgalore*
> 
> do you guys have a diagram for 8pin pcie diagram for seasonic x650km3 please? tia!


I posted an update of my Seasonic KM3 pinout, including PCIE/CPU and Sata/Molex outlets, a few days ago.


----------



## butzgalore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I posted an update of my Seasonic KM3 pinout, including PCIE/CPU and Sata/Molex outlets, a few days ago.


is x850 the same with x650?


----------



## Himo5

Yes, they all have the same set of 1 x 18 pin, 1 x 10 pin, 6 x 8 pin and 5 x 6 pin outlets.


----------



## butzgalore

thank you very much for your help and for the very fast response himo5!


----------



## Himo5

You're welcome. Watch out for the different 8-pin connector shapes: PCIE the same as PSU with SQU-BEVEL-BEVEL-BEVEL opposite the lug, and CPU with SQU-BEVEL-BEVEL-SQU.


----------



## ognoM

I recently bought a Chieftec Smart SFX-500GD-C and I intend to use it with the Silverstone PP05-E cable set. As far as I can tell the pinouts are consistent for the modular PSUs of these manufacturers (well, Silverstone has black cables, so I'm going by the illustration posted in this thread). Chieftec doesn't have the orange sense wire, which isn't supposed to be a problem, however I'm still wondering about something:
Pinout 21 has dual red wires on the Silverstone, while Chieftec only has a single wire there. Will this make any diffence?
Thanks for any help.


----------



## SimplexStone6

Does anyone know if the pin out for the EVGA SuperNOVA 750 P2 is the same as the pin out listed as "VGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 (also covers 750 G2, 1000 G2, 1000 P2, 1300 G2, 1200 P2 & 1600 G2) by tinus93 and Big Elf"?


----------



## adi518

Is Seasonic P-660/760/860 24-pin pinout consistent with Seasonic X-560/660/760 24-pin pinout? Thanks.


----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Is Seasonic P-660/760/860 24-pin pinout consistent with Seasonic X-560/660/760 24-pin pinout? Thanks.


Yes its the same i have made many








Mundi Icemodz


----------



## nestormh

Hello, is Seasonic M12II-520 EVO the same with M12II-750 EVO??
Other solution if not is compatible?? :S


----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nestormh*
> 
> Hello, is Seasonic M12II-520 EVO the same with M12II-750 EVO??
> Other solution if not is compatible?? :S


Yes they use the same cables


----------



## nestormh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Yes they use the same cables


thanks!
PLEASEEE, ADD ALL THIS POWER SUPLYS PIN OUT TO THREAD JEJEJE
SEASONIC ONLY, BUT ARE ALL!!!!

http://www.seasonicusa.com/images/BrochureManuals/

see you!


----------



## mundivalur

There are a few Seasonic models that have a different 8pin cpu and gpu, if your seasonic has a 12pin connector for the gpu cables if you have that type then read the "Notes from Big Elf on SeaSonic Units" page 1


----------



## BigBig5

I have a Seasonic M12 II Bronze EVO Edition 850W. I want to know the pin outs of the cables to make some custom ones, especially the 24 pin ATX cable which is hard to because its not a flat cable?


----------



## BigBig5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarn*
> 
> Hello all,
> Here is my pinout for the seasonic M12ii 750W Evo (http://seasonic.com/product/m12ii-750-evo/)


Whould the pin outs be the same as the 850W version? Is the numbers the same as what it says on the connector?


----------



## jarn

Hello BigBig5,
The pin-out should be the same... The 750 even has the same data-sheet as the 850 (http://seasonic.com/main/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/M12II-EVO-750-850-AM2-FDB.pdf)
The numbers are just so that I could remember which wire goes where, they don't correspond to something else.
In any case double check my pin-out diagram with your cables before stripping all wires.
cheers


----------



## GhostHitWall

I am in the process of sleeving a 24pin for Seasonic 860W platinum SS-860XP2.
Just curious that if I can change the pinout based on their voltage?
originally,
18pin connector ---> 24pin connector,
pin9 ---> pin1
pin8 ---> pin2
They are 3.3volt.

Could I do pin9--->pin2 & pin8--->1??


----------



## mundivalur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GhostHitWall*
> 
> I am in the process of sleeving a 24pin for Seasonic 860W platinum SS-860XP2.
> Just curious that if I can change the pinout based on their voltage?
> originally,
> 18pin connector ---> 24pin connector,
> pin9 ---> pin1
> pin8 ---> pin2
> They are 3.3volt.
> 
> Could I do pin9--->pin2 & pin8--->1??


Yes you can make your own pin out as long as the wires go to the right volts/ground


----------



## GhostHitWall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> Yes you can make your own pin out as long as the wires go to the right volts/ground


Thx!! does that apply to double wire too??

EX: on the 24PinS, 23,22,21,6(double wired),4 are all 5 volts
like on the 24Pins, 6 is connected to both 12&2 on the 18Pins.

Could I do, 2&3 on the 18Pins to 4 on the 24Pin?


----------



## mundivalur

Yea if its the same volts then its all good


----------



## Himo5

I wonder if a monitor wire going to the 18 pin outlet is in the same circuit as a black Ground wire going to the 10 Pin outlet. I've always made it a rule to restrict doubling of the Ground wires to the 18 Pin outlet - unless the monitor wire goes to the 10 Pin outlet instead (which I've never heard of).


----------



## GhostHitWall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> I wonder if a monitor wire going to the 18 pin outlet is in the same circuit as a black Ground wire going to the 10 Pin outlet. I've always made it a rule to restrict doubling of the Ground wires to the 18 Pin outlet - unless the monitor wire goes to the 10 Pin outlet instead (which I've never heard of).


Good point.. For now I keep 10pin ground single wire as they were.

I made a lot of mistake in this entire sleeving... second time doing this with new tools.. and White sleeves are hard to manage to be 100% clean after I am done with it.
I guess I will redo it again if I ever have the time. and report back if the 10pin & 18pin ground wire can be doubled on this particular line of Seasonic's.


----------



## mp1380

Despite the fear of asking a stupid question, I thought I'd go ahead with this post.

Are pin outs only necessary if you're sleeving the existing cables of yours PSU? I've sleeved my own custom extensions for an HX650 which didn't require any attention to pin outs, as it was a one to one connection. But now I'm planning on sleeving cables for my HX850i, a fully modular PSU. Instead of extensions, I want the cables to go directly from the PSU to the mobo, gpu, etc. I don't plan on sleeving the provided cables, but once again make my own custom cables. With this being the case, is this still just a one to one connection between the connectors, or will there be a specific pin out I need to get from the extisting cables?


----------



## Mystriss

Well you can sleeve an /extension/ one to one for any PSU, however, if you are replacing the cables entirely (say on a modular PSU) you most definitely have to pay attention to pin outs. All kinds of bad things happen when you, say don't put in a ground wire where their should be one.


----------



## mp1380

Ahh okay, makes sense. It doesn't seem there is an existing pin out for the HX850i, so maybe I'll submit what I come up with after I complete the sleeving. I'm a little concerned aesthetically. One to one is just so much more appealing.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mp1380*
> 
> Ahh okay, makes sense. It doesn't seem there is an existing pin out for the HX850i, so maybe I'll submit what I come up with after I complete the sleeving. I'm a little concerned aesthetically. One to one is just so much more appealing.


The Pinouts on these Corsair power supply's are the same according to the Corsair Individually Sleeved Cable PSU Compatibility:

24pin ATX Individually Sleeved Cable (610mm)

AXI Series - 1500/1200/860/760
RM Series - 1000/850/750/650/550/450
HXi Series - 1200/1000/850/750

________________________________________________________

Corsair PSU Compatibility:
Package contents

Black woven drawstring cable storage pouch
(x4) 6+2 PCI-E cables (600mm)
(x2) 6+2 PCI- E pigtail cables (600mm,750mm)
(x2) 4+4 EPS/ATX12V CPU cables (650mm)
(x1) SATA Power 4-Head Long cables (850mm)
(x3) SATA Power 4-Head Short cables (750mm)
(x3) Peripheral 4-pin Molex Power cables (750mm)

AXI Series - 1500/1200/860/760
AX Series - 860/760
HX Series - 1050/850/750/650
HXi Series - 1200/1000/850/750
TXM Series - 850/750/650/550
CXM Series - 750/600/500/430
CSM Series - 850/750/650/550/450
RM Series - 1000/850/750/650/550/450


----------



## mp1380

You're right. The Corsair website says that the AXI and HXI sleeved cables are interchangeable, so they should be the same pinout. However, I'll still make my own diagram and compare to what's already provided for the AX1200, as recommended by the OP.

Edit: The Corsair website shows the AX1200I as being equivalent to the HX850I that I have. Error on my part, the AX1200 is not the same pinout.


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mp1380*
> 
> You're right. The Corsair website says that the AXI and HXI sleeved cables are interchangeable, so they should be the same pinout. However, I'll still make my own diagram and compare to what's already provided for the AX1200, as recommended by the OP.
> 
> Edit: The Corsair website shows the AX1200I as being equivalent to the HX850I that I have. Error on my part, the AX1200 is not the same pinout.


Check this out : AXi series power supply pinouts
I made a pdf document with the pinouts for my AXi 1200,760 and 860


----------



## mp1380

Thanks! This will be very helpful


----------



## yasirjamal

hi all,
I'm but confused with the pinouts of CoolerMaster v700. Appreciate it if anyone post a picture of it, looks to me its somewhat different to the seasonic ones.


----------



## DyndaS

What about Corsair RMx pinouts? How its compare do EVGA Suprenova G2 ?


----------



## Nacknime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> I had not found a pinout schematic for my Power Supply: the (relatively) new Corsair RM1000i. So I did the work myself. I've saved the work and am happy to share it with you all / the Overclock.net community. Many of you have helped me, so it is good karma to give something back! Maybe some of you will find this useful.
> 
> (As a health warning. I have triple checked this data, but I will not take responsibility for any errors or omission. You use this data at your own risk. One thing I was not sure about was the definitions of the writing on top of the SMD capacitors. If anyone else reading this has a correction, please let me know and I will update the source document.).
> 
> See attached. - Simon.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pinouts
> 
> 
> 
> Corsair RM1000i pinout schematics


Thanks for your work, I really appreciate it.
I'm currently working on a RM650i, already took apart all of my cables except PCIe and made my own pinouts, and somehow A LOT doesn't line up. If RM650i and RM1000i have different pinouts, you can just ignore this reply. If they don't, could you tell me if you used your pinout for the actual project and it worked? *All the differences have the same voltages, so does it just not matter?* I'm fairly new to this, and I don't want to make a mistake. I ordered a PSU tester, so after making it I'll update this reply with definite re-checked pinouts.


Spoiler: 24pin ATX



10P5 goes to 24A12
10P7 goes to 24A23
10P9 goes to 24A21
10P10 goes to 24A15
18P1 goes to 24A13
18P2 goes to 24A2
18P3 goes to 24A3
18P4 goes to 24A4
18P5 goes to 24A5
18P6 goes to 24A6
18P7 goes to 24A7
18P12 goes to 24A18
18P14 goes to 24A24
18P15 goes to 24A17
18P16 goes to 24A19
(Voltages are the same as yours)
Capacitors seem to be correct.
I can't double check this anymore, already tore it apart sadly. This is also the cable I'm least sure of correctness of my pinouts.





Spoiler: CPU



8P1 goes to 8C6
8P2 goes to 8C5
8P4 goes to 8C8
8P5 goes to 8C1
8P6 goes to 8C2
8P7 goes to 8C3
8P8 goes to 8C4
(Voltages are the same as yours)
Capacitor seems to be correct.
I can't double check this anymore, already tore it apart sadly.





Spoiler: PCIe



Talking about the diagram of PSU 8 pin -> PCIe 8 pin:
8P5 goes to 8E6
8P6 goes to 8E5
8P7 goes to 8E7
That translates to the following in the diagram PSU 8 pin -> PCIe 6 pin:
8P5 goes to 8E5
8P6 goes to 8E4
8P7 goes to 8E6
(Voltages are the same as yours)
Capacitors seem to be correct.
Those I just checked again, as I haven't torn it apart yet.





Spoiler: SATA



Seems to be correct. Matches my pinout, can't check again because I already disassembled it.





Spoiler: Molex 4pin



Seems to be correct. I just checked this again, as I haven't torn it apart yet.


Conclusion: Voltages all match, Capacitors are correct. Some wires are swapped.
Sorry for this long post, and I hope you can help me...
-Simon (too!))


----------



## fknraiden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dave g*
> 
> just bought an EVGA G1 650 supernova,all black wires and black modular connectors..oh the joys lol.
> 
> i checked with a multimeter and the atx pins were all messed up like spaghetti(they were in the correct pin places for voltage but not for neatness) so i made a quick paint job showing where they went to on mine if it helps anyone.
> 
> the numbers in white on the outside are the numbers on the plastic connector as it plugs into the psu,the numbers on the inside on the pins tell you which pin position they went into on the other end of the cable that goes to the mobo.


thanks for this, I actually wrote mine down as well. I was just curious about something. I had a little confusion on my pinout compared to yours, mine has a pin6>20 thing going on im not sure if it means i need to have it plugged in one direction or not. Im planning on making new cables for it and wanted to make sure I had them correct.
Not sure if this matters, but could I just make a tiny adapter for it, and make long extensions, so I could run all the wires parallel.


----------



## mforce

Does anyone happen to have the pin out for EVGA Supernova PS 1000W (220-PS-1000-V1), I can't seem to find it anywhere? I am trying to find a set of psu cables and I cannot find it and found someone who might be able to pake for me but he needs the pinout.

Or if anyone knows of any psu cable set that will fit the EVGA Supernova PS 1000W I will really appreciate it.


----------



## mforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jinxedx84*
> 
> I cant seem to find anything on the EVGA 1000 PS (220-PS-1000-V1). Looking for a pinout. I could have sworn it was here before?...... maybe not. Thanks in advance for any help


Did you happen to find it by any chance?


----------



## fknraiden

Ended up figuring it out. Just finished them last night.


----------



## neoroy

Hello guys, I wanna ask about "Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 850W pin out" on first page, does the PCIE pin out from PSU is the same like on "Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 1000W Silver"?
Thanks


----------



## ShdSteel

I'm having issues with the diagram posted for the evga series psu. I have a 650w p2 but some of the pins didn't match. I cut out the capacitors too. My issue is that the 24 pin goes to a 10+18 pin connectors and there's one pin that uses a wire from both the 10 pin and 18 pin connector but the diagram doesn't match up with it. What do I do?


----------



## AreTheGod

Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone got a pinout of the COrsair HX 1000I or could confirm that the pinout is the same that the AX 1000I? Thanks


----------



## Dave6531

Anyone have the pin out for the evga 850w p2?


----------



## nabilishes

I've made a pinout layout for Corsair AX860. The one posted is incorrect. Ive used a multimeter to check every pin connections.


----------



## mundivalur

*Anyone have the pin out for the evga 850w p2?* P2 and G2 use the same cables
*Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone got a pinout of the COrsair HX 1000I or could confirm that the pinout is the same that the AX 1200I?* Yes they use the same cables
*Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 850W pin out" on first page, does the PCIE pin out from PSU is the same like on "Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 1000W Silver"?* Yes they are the same
*EVGA 1000 PS: here ,i dont remember where i found it







*
Mundi Icemodz


----------



## snef

I have a question about double wire

what happen if we don't use the double wire on PSU side

ex: EVGA 1000G2

on PSU side , the have 3 double wire,

1 x 3.3v
1 x 5v and 1 x Gournd

if I remove the double and use only one 3.3v on PSU instead of the 2 x 3.3v?

same thing for 5v and same for ground,?

like that no more double wire


----------



## alltheGHz

What do you mean by double/triple wire?


----------



## snef

the EVGA on the 18pin connector, you have 2 x 3.3v going to the same pin on the 24 pins

if you look on the pinout, the pin 2 on 24 pins (3.3v) is going to pin 3 and 7 of the 18pin connector



but received an answer and generally these are for voltage monitoring under load

able to remove them but better to have these connected


----------



## N o i r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabilishes*
> 
> I've made a pinout layout for Corsair AX860. The one posted is incorrect. Ive used a multimeter to check every pin connections.


Thank you for this - I have an AX860 and so far NO DIAGRAM matches the one I have made by hand and I am utterly confused about this.

I made my own pinout, but after seeing that pretty much everyone rolls its own and doesn't match mine, I think I will play it safe and get an ATX tester just in case I have made a mistake.
Are you aware of different revisions of the Corsair AX860? Or perhaps there is more than one "good" mapping?

When I have time I will publish my own diagram.


----------



## loffeleguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N o i r*
> 
> Thank you for this - I have an AX860 and so far NO DIAGRAM matches the one I have made by hand and I am utterly confused about this.
> 
> I made my own pinout, but after seeing that pretty much everyone rolls its own and doesn't match mine, I think I will play it safe and get an ATX tester just in case I have made a mistake.
> Are you aware of different revisions of the Corsair AX860? Or perhaps there is more than one "good" mapping?
> 
> When I have time I will publish my own diagram.


I used the *SeaSonic Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860 by Big Elf* on my AX860 for the 24-pin and it's the same.


----------



## N o i r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loffeleguan*
> 
> I used the *SeaSonic Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860 by Big Elf* on my AX860 for the 24-pin and it's the same.


Where can I find it? Or perhaps you mean, Big Elf's diagram is the same as the one I quoted?


----------



## loffeleguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N o i r*
> 
> Where can I find it? Or perhaps you mean, Big Elf's diagram is the same as the one I quoted?


On page 1 in the first post


----------



## nabilishes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N o i r*
> 
> Thank you for this - I have an AX860 and so far NO DIAGRAM matches the one I have made by hand and I am utterly confused about this.
> 
> I made my own pinout, but after seeing that pretty much everyone rolls its own and doesn't match mine, I think I will play it safe and get an ATX tester just in case I have made a mistake.
> Are you aware of different revisions of the Corsair AX860? Or perhaps there is more than one "good" mapping?
> 
> When I have time I will publish my own diagram.


My pinout is based on the AX860 and not AX860i. The i-version has a different pinout. My pinout layout is not numbered according to the universal standardize numbering. I renumber it based on the ease of checking the pins by using a multimeter i.e. by looking at the connectors from the front/non-cable side and starting from the top most left pin. My current setup is using the pinout layouts i made and it works.Try uploading your layout here maybe i can have a look at it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loffeleguan*
> 
> I used the *SeaSonic Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860 by Big Elf* on my AX860 for the 24-pin and it's the same.


The diagram by BigElf refers from the rear of the connector where the wire is inserted and mine is referring from the front. Ive just crosschecked my layout with the Seasonic P860 layout by BigElf. Even though the pin to pin doesn't match exactly with the Seasonic, the voltage going to the pin is the same. So its up to you to use whichever diagram you think you are more confident with. Or maybe try doing your own pinout from the original cables you have and follow those.


----------



## loffeleguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabilishes*
> 
> My pinout is based on the AX860 and not AX860i. The i-version has a different pinout. My pinout layout is not numbered according to the universal standardize numbering. I renumber it based on the ease of checking the pins by using a multimeter i.e. by looking at the connectors from the front/non-cable side and starting from the top most left pin. My current setup is using the pinout layouts i made and it works.Try uploading your layout here maybe i can have a look at it.
> The diagram by BigElf refers from the rear of the connector where the wire is inserted and mine is referring from the front. Ive just crosschecked my layout with the Seasonic P860 layout by BigElf. Even though the pin to pin doesn't match exactly with the Seasonic, the voltage going to the pin is the same. So its up to you to use whichever diagram you think you are more confident with. Or maybe try doing your own pinout from the original cables you have and follow those.


I know, I was just saying that the SeaSonic P-860 XP2 has the same pin-layout as the Corsair AX860.


----------



## N o i r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nabilishes*
> 
> My pinout is based on the AX860 and not AX860i. The i-version has a different pinout. My pinout layout is not numbered according to the universal standardize numbering. I renumber it based on the ease of checking the pins by using a multimeter i.e. by looking at the connectors from the front/non-cable side and starting from the top most left pin. My current setup is using the pinout layouts i made and it works.Try uploading your layout here maybe i can have a look at it.
> The diagram by BigElf refers from the rear of the connector where the wire is inserted and mine is referring from the front. Ive just crosschecked my layout with the Seasonic P860 layout by BigElf. Even though the pin to pin doesn't match exactly with the Seasonic, the voltage going to the pin is the same. So its up to you to use whichever diagram you think you are more confident with. Or maybe try doing your own pinout from the original cables you have and follow those.


Oh, I also have the AX860, not the AX860i, I know they are different.

One thing that confuses me of your diagram is that, apparently, two pins from the mother board go to the same pin of the PSU (3 -> 10 and 22 -> 10), which is something that I have not witnessed in any diagram nor in my own cables - the PSU pins always have one and one cable only.
I have since ordered an ATX checker - I don't want to risk losing my hard work!

Thank you anyway for taking the time to do this.


----------



## N o i r

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loffeleguan*
> 
> On page 1 in the first post


Oh I see now. How do I read it however? It doesn't show which pin needs to be connected where. It just requires the voltages to match?


----------



## loffeleguan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N o i r*
> 
> Oh, I also have the AX860, not the AX860i, I know they are different.
> 
> One thing that confuses me of your diagram is that, apparently, two pins from the mother board go to the same pin of the PSU (3 -> 10 and 22 -> 10), which is something that I have not witnessed in any diagram nor in my own cables - the PSU pins always have one and one cable only.
> I have since ordered an ATX checker - I don't want to risk losing my hard work!
> 
> Thank you anyway for taking the time to do this.


If you look closely at the connectors at the motherboard side you can see that there are two or three connectors that are split.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N o i r*
> 
> Oh I see now. How do I read it however? It doesn't show which pin needs to be connected where. It just requires the voltages to match?


That is because every power supply maker have it's own layout, but the connectors on the motherboard side is ATX standard.
You have to match them up with your power supply.
Hope someone else can explain it bette because. my native language isn't english.


----------



## mbmn

Hi everyone,

after I have been googling and reading for hours, I still have problems with my Superflower Leadex Gold 550W psu.
Unfortunately, I have just pulled out all the pins of the cpu power cable while sleeving.
Well done.
I can't figure out how to put them back in properly, because I have no pinout








I did take some photos, but compared to the coloured pinout (1000W Leadex Platinum) I think there are some variations..

Earlier post won't help - I have really tried to understand the drawings listed here.
So, is there anyone using Superflower's original cables who could help me out?

As already said, those wires are not the best to start with, because of the double wires etc...








Mine also has a capacitor soldered, as far as I can see, there is none in the existing pinout.

I really appreciate your support!


----------



## neoroy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mundivalur*
> 
> *Anyone have the pin out for the evga 850w p2?* P2 and G2 use the same cables
> *Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone got a pinout of the COrsair HX 1000I or could confirm that the pinout is the same that the AX 1200I?* Yes they use the same cables
> *Cooler Master Silent Pro Hybrid 850W pin out" on first page, does the PCIE pin out from PSU is the same like on "Cooler Master Silent Pro M2 1000W Silver"?* Yes they are the same
> *EVGA 1000 PS: here ,i dont remember where i found it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Mundi Icemodz


Thanks *mundivalur*








GRP sent.


----------



## mbmn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbmn*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> after I have been googling and reading for hours, I still have problems with my Superflower Leadex Gold 550W psu.
> Unfortunately, I have just pulled out all the pins of the cpu power cable while sleeving.
> Well done.
> I can't figure out how to put them back in properly, because I have no pinout
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did take some photos, but compared to the coloured pinout (1000W Leadex Platinum) I think there are some variations..
> 
> Earlier post won't help - I have really tried to understand the drawings listed here.
> So, is there anyone using Superflower's original cables who could help me out?
> 
> As already said, those wires are not the best to start with, because of the double wires etc...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine also has a capacitor soldered, as far as I can see, there is none in the existing pinout.
> 
> I really appreciate your support!


Good news, I managed to get the pins back into position (CPU Power 12V).
As the pinout shown here differs just a little, I assume that wires of the same group (same colour = same voltage) are interchangeable..!?
Regarding the CPU one it is just wire 2 and 3 that swap positions (psu connector). Because of the minor changes I did't do a new pinout
for the Leadex Gold 550W series.

So I've got two remaining important questions that should be easier to answer, even if you do not use the psu:

1. The capacitor I have mentioned seems to reduce the ripple. I am not an engineer, so could someone tell me,
how this affects my use of the psu? Is this part important, or could I just rip it off while sleeving (would be easier and give a much nicer and cleaner look







)

2. In the pinout diagram it says that 2 slots of the psu sided plug are not used - does someone know, if they are useless or if there is a special voltage
you will be able to use when inserting a pin?

THX


----------



## Mystriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mbmn*
> 
> Good news, I managed to get the pins back into position (CPU Power 12V).
> As the pinout shown here differs just a little, I assume that wires of the same group (same colour = same voltage) are interchangeable..!?
> Regarding the CPU one it is just wire 2 and 3 that swap positions (psu connector). Because of the minor changes I did't do a new pinout
> for the Leadex Gold 550W series.
> 
> So I've got two remaining important questions that should be easier to answer, even if you do not use the psu:
> 
> 1. The capacitor I have mentioned seems to reduce the ripple. I am not an engineer, so could someone tell me,
> how this affects my use of the psu? Is this part important, or could I just rip it off while sleeving (would be easier and give a much nicer and cleaner look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> 2. In the pinout diagram it says that 2 slots of the psu sided plug are not used - does someone know, if they are useless or if there is a special voltage
> you will be able to use when inserting a pin?
> 
> THX


Yes you can move the wires to different pins so long as the voltage / ground is the same. There are 12v, 3.3v, 5v, and ground wires that can be moved if needed to make the cable lay better.

However, I really, really suggest getting a multimeter and checking what's coming off the PSU rather than relying on wire color - like a lot... If you really can't afford to buy a voltage meter, take it to a local computer repair shop or electronics supply store and see if they'll let you use a meter for a few minutes so you can write them down. I'm a chick so when my husband stole his multi-meter from me I just smiled at them all cute like and they explained the whole process while they did it for me









(Note, you'll need to jump pin 16 and a ground to get the PSU to turn on so you can test voltages)

1. A capacitor kind of holds power before releasing it so it regulates the flow - a lot of people remove them and have no trouble. Personally I kinda like to keep them, either sleeve them and hide them between the top and bottom "layer" of wires (or on the underside of the cable), or if I don't need much of the cable showing I'll make an extension so I can hide the stock cable somewhere. However, that's not always possible, I've never had a problem with the couple of cables I've removed them on.

2. Motherboard 24pin connectors almost always have an unused pin #20 (If I recall correctly it it used to be a -5V line)

"Additional" unused pins on the PSU side could come up for a number of reasons... Like say instead of a typical 24pin mb connector, they split it into two or three connectors in order to separate them onto different rails. So you could maybe have a 3 over 3 (6 holes) connector off the 5V rail, but the MB side only takes five 5V lines so you would have have an unused pin on the PSU side.


----------



## kpcpc

Looking for the Super Flower SF-750F14MG pin out.


----------



## GhostHitWall

Hey all,
Does anyone have experience with Seasonic Snow Silent series?
From exterior, this line looks the same as the X series. (750w/1050w)


----------



## snef

yes i made the 1050 and look for Seasonic XP3 pinout

I work on the 750 right now and seem the same


----------



## GhostHitWall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snef*
> 
> yes i made the 1050 and look for Seasonic XP3 pinout
> 
> I work on the 750 right now and seem the same


Thx a lot,
I was actually referring to the KM models as X series.
I always thought the XP models are P series.
And thank you very much for the pinout on all these PSU.


----------



## TUFinside

Please, i need to know if this is compatible with EVGA 750P2 PSU :

http://www.moddiy.com/products/EVGA-PSU-SuperNOVA-MB-Modular-Connector-%2818%252dPin%29.html


----------



## ex1991

I'm looking for a pinout guide for the Cooler Master v550. I cannot find one anywhere. It looks like everyone is saying that the Seasonic KM3 is the same. Do I just go based on that? And What about for PCI-E connectors? Or is that just basically standard? Thank you!


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Just got the Corsair SF450 power supply for my daughter's computer and need custom cables, but couldn't find the pinout.
So, here it is:





Maybe someone can confirm if it's the same on the SF600.









I'll confirm this myself!







SF450&SF600 have same pinout.

Note: Connector viewed from rear.

*EDIT* @TUFinside Yes, that connector is compatible with the 750P2.

*EDIT 2* Updated pinout with double wires location on PSU side.


----------



## gravy davey

I've recently brought a XFX Pro 1000w only problem is it didn't come with any cables i have searched google for a picture or atleast a visual of the cables so i can make my own cables but nothing, is there anyone out there who knows the pin layout of this psu ? i've found custom made ones but they are over £100


----------



## atomicus

Forgive my ignorance here, and apologies if this has been answered already, but how do you 'read' these pin outs? I'm just trying to understand it all, because I've done extensions before, which obviously have no need for pin out diagrams, but I've never tried going straight from PSU to motherboard, and I'm rather baffled. You are still using the same wire and terminals, correct? There is only one type of wire and terminal, correct? So all these colours, voltages etc... what does that mean and how is it applicable to the wiring of the cable?? Is there an idiot's guide somewhere I can read up on all this? I'd like to learn how to do it.


----------



## Himo5

If you had a digital multimeter



you could attach one probe to the first pin at the motherboard end of the 24pin cable and test the other probe against all the pins at the other end of the cable, making a note of which ones registered a connection, then you could do that for all the other pins at the motherboard end and you would end up with a chart like this.



In many cases you would find many wires in the cable having to cross over each other and some of them going in pairs to the same motherboard pin (and maybe even with a capacitor joining them), making it impossible to lay them individually sleeved in a neat path from motherboard to PSU.

So then you might find that you could improve the path neatness by changing which wires are doubled - which can be done if you know which group of 3.3v/5v/12v/Grnd wires they belong to.

PSU cable sets used to be made up with differently colored wires according to the general ATX scheme, so even when that is no longer the case pinouts often use the color scheme to indicate how the groups are organised.


----------



## atomicus

So how do you make nice neat solid rainbow cables if they're crossing over each other?? Or can you simply not, only with extensions?


----------



## Himo5

It depends where you want to locate the crossover point, at the psu or behind the motherboard tray.

Some use a short, unsleeved extension at the PSU that incorporates all the crossing over, capacitors and double wiring and then use another extension with it to display the fancy sleeving.



However, that may end up with something even more complicated.



Another drawback of that strategy is the possibility that moving the double wiring joints to the PSU end of the cable defeats the purpose of comparing differences in current at the motherboard end of the cable.

Rather than having to supply two pairs of Male/Female connectors and their pins the traditional method is to design the crossing over and double wiring to take place in the loops behind the motherboard.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> So how do you make nice neat solid rainbow cables if they're crossing over each other?? Or can you simply not, only with extensions?


Himo has got the right idea... glad I only use black..


----------



## atomicus

I think this may be beyond me, at least for the time being anyway. Are extensions really that bad?? I see quite a few people saying don't do it, but I've used them myself before numerous times without issue.


----------



## Himo5

Why start with the most difficult task? You can draw up a total design and shopping list then work your way through it as and when. Here are some of the projects you could break it down into:
ATX 24Pin Motherboard Power
CPU Cooling System (Air or Water)
Case Ventilation
Front Panel Audio
Front Panel Molex Power
Front Panel USB 2.0 to 10 Pin Header
Front Panel USB 3.0 to 20 pin Header
Graphics Card Power
Graphics Cooling System
Sata Data
Sata Power (DVD/Hubs)
Sata Power (Hdd/SSD)


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> I think this may be beyond me, at least for the time being anyway. Are extensions really that bad?? I see quite a few people saying don't do it, but I've used them myself before numerous times without issue.


I don't think extensions are bad. If it makes it easier then do that. You could always make a full cable later on when you feel more comfortable with it.


----------



## atomicus

I have the crimpers and tools etc. so I certainly CAN do it in the future if I want, but I feel very ambivalent towards jumping in at the deep with something I'm not the slightest bit familiar with. Regular sleeving etc. is fine, that I can manage, but getting into the electronics realm is daunting to say the least... especially when I could do some serious damage if I get it wrong!


----------



## mp1380

I've decided to use extensions in my builds. The cases that I have hide the PSU so it just seems easier that way.


----------



## atomicus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mp1380*
> 
> I've decided to use extensions in my builds. The cases that I have hide the PSU so it just seems easier that way.


My case is the same, I don't see the PSU at all, so initially I thought extensions, yeah why WOULDN'T you just do that given the ease in comparison to making an entirely new cable... but then I have come across numerous comments saying extensions are a bad idea, although I wasn't quite clear why. Providing you're using quality wire and you take your time with it, what's the problem?


----------



## mp1380

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atomicus*
> 
> My case is the same, I don't see the PSU at all, so initially I thought extensions, yeah why WOULDN'T you just do that given the ease in comparison to making an entirely new cable... but then I have come across numerous comments saying extensions are a bad idea, although I wasn't quite clear why. Providing you're using quality wire and you take your time with it, what's the problem?


I don't think there is a problem with extensions. I've made numerous sets and never had a problem with any. If there is a problem, it's news to me. I just hope I don't go home after work to find my build exploded...


----------



## kgtuning

My only guess would be if you had a 24 pin that uses smaller gauge wire then adding on an extension maybe you'd end up with a bit of voltage drop across the cable. just a thought.


----------



## Sedici

Dont' know if this exists, but I recently made custom cables for my Corsair SF600 (600W SFX) psu, and made a quick pinout in the process.

Never made a pinout before, hopefully it's clear enough.

4 Double wires on the main ATX. One double on the PCIE.


----------



## colinreay

Spoiler: Quote



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Dont' know if this exists, but I recently made custom cables for my Corsair SF600 (600W SFX) psu, and made a quick pinout in the process.
> 
> Never made a pinout before, hopefully it's clear enough.
> 
> 4 Double wires on the main ATX. One double on the PCIE.






Dude, that is a wonderful pinout! This might be the easiest to follow one I've seen so far, can you please make all the pinouts from now on?


----------



## Sedici

Hah. Thanks. I can't make more because I don't have any other PSUs.

But I can upload a blank template if someone wants to use it. (molex+sata included)



Traditional 24 to 24 pin main



If you want to make the text match, the font for the numbers is called Muro.


----------



## kgtuning

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Hah. Thanks. I can't make more because I don't have any other PSUs.
> 
> But I can upload a blank template if someone wants to use it. (molex+sata included)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Traditional 24 to 24 pin main
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to make the text match, the font for the numbers is called Muro.


Thats pretty slick! nice pinout.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Hah. Thanks. I can't make more because I don't have any other PSUs.
> 
> But I can upload a blank template if someone wants to use it. (molex+sata included)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Traditional 24 to 24 pin main
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to make the text match, the font for the numbers is called Muro.


Can you upload the blank template? Which program did you use in making the diagrams?


----------



## Sedici

The two posted above are blank. The numbered pins correspond with the non PSU side, which should be universal. I can upload a completely non-numbered one if that isn't the case.

It was made in Photoshop CS5.


----------



## aerial

I'm looking for Seasonic G-series pin layout. Can't find it in this thread, few people have asked.
Already asked seasonic, but they refused to provide such information..


----------



## Himo5

It looks like you're in luck since all the modular cables in the G-series are the ribbon type, so you won't need a multimeter to find out which wire goes to which pin. Since the pins on the device ends of these cables are always the same you can build you own pinout without any problems by tracing them back to the pin(s) in the PSU outlet connectors.


----------



## joduskaboss

Hey, can anyone help me with the 28-24 pin atx cable for Corsair RMx series? I have a rm650x psu but I think any RMx one will work . I messed up the wires so any helpis welcome


----------



## tistou77

Hello

On a Seasonic Platinum 750W, side PSU (not MB), 12v is up or down ?
Like that ?



Thanks


----------



## Rdoxey

Hi Everyone,

Just curious if anyone has any good pin layouts for Seasonic Prime series 850 power supply?

Any would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## NeeqOne

Can someone please verify this pinouts diagram for the EVGA 1200 P2 for me? Thanks.


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeeqOne*
> 
> Can someone please verify this pinouts diagram for the EVGA 1200 P2 for me? Thanks.


You're good to go mate!


----------



## DyndaS

Hi,

Can I plug cables from seasonic platinum to titanium ?


----------



## tistou77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DyndaS*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Can I plug cables from seasonic platinum to titanium ?


yes


----------



## DarkStyxx

Which of the Silverstone pinouts would be usable for the SST-ST70F-PB? If there isn't one, I'll make certain to write down the diagram as I disassemble the harness before sleeving. Let me know. Thanks in advanced.


----------



## orvils

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkStyxx*
> 
> Which of the Silverstone pinouts would be usable for the SST-ST70F-PB? If there isn't one, I'll make certain to write down the diagram as I disassemble the harness before sleeving. Let me know. Thanks in advanced.


You can use second one of op's Silverstone section. One named SilverStone ST65F-G 650W.

Also here are my own pinouts:




All images with wires facing yourself.

I have exactly the same power supply. I did not so double wires as they are not needed - I did my pinout from Silverstone short cable set.
Been using them for a year and works great.


----------



## ritutu

Pinout for Super flower 1600 Gold or titanium or 2000w platinum same power supply
Please?


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

I've question,I've bought Seasonic X-1250 XM2,right now I'm running Corsair AX760 and I would like to use my AX760 cables with Seasonic X-1250 XM2,from back they looks similar or same,I want to use only peripheral cables and that's it

AX760 from back



Seasonic X-1250 XM2



Not sure if those cables will be compatible etc

Please guys if you could let me know if its possible

Thanks in advance,Jura


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jura11*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I've question,I've bought Seasonic X-1250 XM2,right now I'm running Corsair AX760 and I would like to use my AX760 cables with Seasonic X-1250 XM2,from back they looks similar or same,I want to use only peripheral cables and that's it
> 
> AX760 from back
> 
> 
> 
> Seasonic X-1250 XM2
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if those cables will be compatible etc
> 
> Please guys if you could let me know if its possible
> 
> Thanks in advance,Jura


Even if the connector fits, the pinout might be different, so don't do it before checking the pinout on both and moving wires accordingly. If you don't think you can do it and no one else chimes in, I'll check the pinouts when I get home. On my phone right now.


----------



## jura11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Even if the connector fits, tge pinout might be different, so don't do it before checking the pinout on both and moving wires accordingly. If you don't think you can do it and no one else chimes in, I'll check the pinouts when I get home. On my phone right now.


Hi there

If you could check this for me I would be very appreciated

Thanks,Jura


----------



## DyndaS

What if you will mess wires? Can it dmg something? I had custom seasonic EPS P8 with wrong placed wires (probably 1/2) and PC just didin't wanted start on it before I did it again my way.


----------



## Metalcored00d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Just got the Corsair SF450 power supply for my daughter's computer and need custom cables, but couldn't find the pinout.
> So, here it is:
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe someone can confirm if it's the same on the SF600.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll confirm this myself!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SF450&SF600 have same pinout.


Noob here, number 3 - 5 - 7 - 14 and 18 are all red on the 24pin scheme. Does that mean that you can put these in any red square (eg. 5V) on the PSU from either the 18pin or the 8pin connector as long as the voltage is the same?


----------



## GetToTheChopaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Metalcored00d*
> 
> Noob here, number 3 - 5 - 7 - 14 and 18 are all red on the 24pin scheme. Does that mean that you can put these in any red square (eg. 5V) on the PSU from either the 18pin or the 8pin connector as rong as the voltage is the same?


Yes, same voltage pins (same colour) are interchangeable. This way you get the least amount of overlaping wires, resulting in cleaner cable routing. I have done this with all my sleeved PSUs. It's also the reason why I did not use numbers on the PSU side of the pinout I supplied for the SF450.









*EDIT*: Updated pinout with double wires location on PSU side.


----------



## Metalcored00d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GetToTheChopaa*
> 
> Yes, same voltage pins (same colour) are interchangeable. This way you get the least amount of overlaping wires, resulting in cleaner cable routing. I have done this with all my sleeved PSUs. It's also the reason why I did not use numbers on the PSU side of the pinout I supplied for the SF450.


Awesome. That's exactly what I was hoping for







. Thanks!


----------



## Himo5

I've made this point before without a definitive response but I wonder if a wire monitoring another wire going to one psu outlet is in the same circuit as another wire of the same voltage going to another psu outlet. I've not come across an instance where two wires doubled at the motherboard go to different psu outlets, so perhaps you should restrict your doubled wire selection to the same psu outlet as well as the same voltage.

There is also another aspect of this, now that I come to think of it, concerning which of the doubled wires is the monitor. If you double two monitored wires instead of a monitored wire and its monitoring wire then you will have two live outlets going to one motherboard pin and another motherboard pin getting no feed from the monitor wire connected to it.

In Seasonic KM3 cable sets doubled wires always consist of an 18awg and a 22awg pair making it easy to spot the 22awg monitor, but that may not be the case in other PSUs.


----------



## cr333d

COOLERMASTER V750W Pinout
Recently i have made custom sleeve for v750 modular psu.I have double checked pinouts still i will recommended recheck the pinouts while doing .I am not responsible for anything.Thank you i hope this will help lot of peoples.


----------



## jvillaveces

This is the pinout for the Seasonic SS-1050XM2. It is different from the XM version. All the wires in the stock ATX cable are black, but I represented them using the standard colors. Hopefully this will be a useful reference for others wanting to build custom cables for this PSU.


----------



## cr333d

Any one tried sleeving RMX/RMi series


----------



## cr333d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarn*
> 
> Hello BigBig5,
> The pin-out should be the same... The 750 even has the same data-sheet as the 850 (http://seasonic.com/main/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/M12II-EVO-750-850-AM2-FDB.pdf)
> The numbers are just so that I could remember which wire goes where, they don't correspond to something else.
> In any case double check my pin-out diagram with your cables before stripping all wires.
> cheers


numbers are bit confusing


----------



## jarn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr333d*
> 
> numbers are bit confusing


Could you elaborate?


----------



## cr333d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarn*
> 
> Could you elaborate?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jarn*
> 
> Hello all,
> Here is my pinout for the seasonic M12ii 750W Evo (http://seasonic.com/product/m12ii-750-evo/)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i mean the way you numbered 1 to 17 then 18to 27 like you started 18 from the top thats why bit confusing.
Click to expand...


----------



## cr333d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> The two posted above are blank. The numbered pins correspond with the non PSU side, which should be universal. I can upload a completely non-numbered one if that isn't the case.
> 
> It was made in Photoshop CS5.


That will be great


----------



## Sedici

Blanks


----------



## cr333d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sedici*
> 
> Blanks


thank you


----------



## jarn

@cr333d
Hi, I see you are referring to the main power cable. This cable has two connectors on the PSU side and one on the Motherboard side.
(similar to this picture: http://image.dhgate.com/0x0/f2/albu/g3/M01/A9/4F/rBVaHFQ81CyAbvT_AAH2Jn073oQ059.jpg)

Just think of each number representing one cable. So this connector has a total of 27 cables and on the left column you can see their edges on the PSU (27 cables on 2 connectors) and on the right column you can see their edges on the motherboard (27 cables on one connector / some pins have two cables)

Hope this makes more sense.

ps. Please verify my diagram before unplugging any cables...


----------



## GhostHitWall

Just finished my build with *SeaSonic Platinum SS-860XP2 860W*
The 8-pin PCIe doesn't follow the universal pinout listed in the first thread.
The 12v and ground are in reverse.
So, the row closer to the latch is Ground, and the further away row is 12v.

The rest of the pinouts are fine.


----------



## jvillaveces

Here is the completed pinout for the Seasonic X1050-XM2, including PCIE, Sata and Molex connectors.


----------



## DyndaS

What about Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 11 ? Im having 650W and wanna sleeve it but noticed that from psu side there are 2 cables in one pin. I'm talking exactly about PCI-E cable.


----------



## reblacklaf

Yes, I purchased a Seasonic M12II to use with my 3d printer. I need to know which pins I have to connect between the 18 and 10 pin outputs for the motherboard to be able to use the 12v outputs for my printer, fans, and led's.

Thanks
Randy

PS I'm new to the site.


----------



## cr333d

connect the 18pin and 10pin to psu and use 24 pin jumper at the end of 24pin and use the sata/molex for 12v output.Kindly check the wattage of the printer before using.

jumper 15k .jpg file


PSUPaperClipTest5.png 615k .png file


----------



## reblacklaf

Thanks, I looked at what you sent and traced it to pins 23 and 27 of the 10 pin connector. That works and I get my 12 volts on the CPU/PCI-E 8 pin connectors. I shouldn't have to put any protection on the jumper do I? I want power to come on once the power switch on the power supply is thrown.

http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6f/6f831e5c_SEASONICM12IIBRONZEEVO750W.jpeg

Randy


----------



## Bogga

I've got EVGA G2 850w, can someone verify that I'm doing this right so far. As I've understood it's just reverse the cables... (it's the 8-pin cpu) please disregard my horrible heat shrinks



EDIT: Or are they supposed to go straight over?


----------



## Boi666

Can anyone give me pinout for Be Quiet Pure Power 9 400W.I tried custom sleeving and did bad pinout and dont have multimeter so cant find 3 12V wires.I need just pcie cable pinout.Thnks in advance!


----------



## Virgule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*


Hello,

I'm replying to post #570 but seeing the length of time between posts, anyone's help is welcomed.

So I'm trying to make custom cables for the RM1000i and this post in particular will be of help. I'm relatively new to sleeving PSU cables (not extensions) and seeing this diagram makes me shiver a bit. My main two concerns are about the capacitors and the different gauge wires.

Questions :

1- From what I understand, using capacitors is not mandatory as it just helps with voltage fluctuations. Can I just forego those and follow the wiring diagram without connecting capacitors to different 24p pins ?

2- Can I use 18AWG wire accross the board without having to connect 16AWG to 22AWG wires (for example) ?

3- Pin #20 of the MB 24pin seems unused. Is this normal ? Is there really no cable there. If I compare this to a standard 24pin ATX layout, there should be a -5V pin there.

Thanks in advance for the help.


----------



## SimonOcean

Hi Virgule, In answer to each of your questions:

1- From what I understand, using capacitors is not mandatory as it just helps with voltage fluctuations. Can I just forego those and follow the wiring diagram without connecting capacitors to different 24p pins ?
You are correct. In included the capacitors in the diagram for completeness only. I've completed a custom cable job myself, but you don't need the capacitors. Just ignore those links entirely. The capacitors help with ultimate voltage stability, but I don't notice any difference on my rig.

2- Can I use 18AWG wire accross the board without having to connect 16AWG to 22AWG wires (for example) ?
Yes. I tried wiring with 16AWG where indicated, but I had problems with the cable ties that I was using, so now I am using all 18AWG. And everything works fine.

3- Pin #20 of the MB 24pin seems unused. Is this normal ? Is there really no cable there. If I compare this to a standard 24pin ATX layout, there should be a -5V pin there.
Correct: it is not used on this PSU.

Good luck with your rig.


----------



## willieboy90

Hello guys,

My GPU (Gigabyte GTX 1070 Xtreme Gaming) has an 8pin and 6pin connection, and my Corsair SF450 PSU came with two 6+2 pin cables where I have two cable joining at the end going into a single opening in the connector. According the the following post (PSU pinout repo, search for "Corsair SF450"), the +2 of the 6+2 connectors are all ground, which means it doesn't do anything right (cable has 3 12v's and 5 grounds), since all 3 12v cables have a ground pair.

So back to the GPU, which requires an 8 pin + 6 pin. Is it safe to remove the both +2 (only ground wires) from my 6+2 pin cables and provide my GPU with power from two 6pins instead of an 6+2 pin and 6pin?

I'm asking this because I'm sleeving my cables and I hate (sleeving) those two into one cables, plus I read in several places that the +2 ground wires don't actually do anything.


----------



## Virgule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> Hi Virgule, In answer to each of your questions:
> 
> 1- From what I understand, using capacitors is not mandatory as it just helps with voltage fluctuations. Can I just forego those and follow the wiring diagram without connecting capacitors to different 24p pins ?
> You are correct. In included the capacitors in the diagram for completeness only. I've completed a custom cable job myself and you need to make the Y interconnects between cables, but you don't need the capacitors.


So if I understand correctly, in addition to the interconnects shown on your main diagram, I have to add the interconnects shown on your capacitor diagram (as if the capacitors themselves were not there) ?
So 7 interconnects in total ?


----------



## SimonOcean

NO!!!! Sorry: what I wrote was very misleading. I will correct it in the post above so as not to misled anyone. I meant just ignore the capacitors. Don't link up with bare wires instead of capacitors. That could end very badly. Glad you wrote to clarify.


----------



## Virgule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> NO!!!! Sorry: what I wrote was very misleading. I will correct it in the post above so as not to misled anyone. I meant just ignore the capacitors. Don't link up with bare wires instead of capacitors. That could end very badly. Glad you wrote to clarify.


Exactly what I thought. Thank you so much for your help and for this clarification. I'll try and report back when the job's done. I also purchased a Thermaltake DR. Power II just to make sure I'm not frying anything.


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> NO!!!! Sorry: what I wrote was very misleading. I will correct it in the post above so as not to misled anyone. I meant just ignore the capacitors. Don't link up with bare wires instead of capacitors. That could end very badly. Glad you wrote to clarify.


To elaborate a little on what Simon said, the capacitors have one lead connected to the 12v (or 5/3.3v if memory serves), and the other lead connected to a ground wire. Bridging the two could result in a pretty lights show, that you most certainly do not want to see.


----------



## Virgule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinreay*
> 
> To elaborate a little on what Simon said, the capacitors have one lead connected to the 12v (or 5/3.3v if memory serves), and the other lead connected to a ground wire. Bridging the two could result in a pretty lights show, that you most certainly do not want to see.


Yea I bet.

I've done the top half of the 24 pin so far including 3 double wires. It's not that hard but you bet your ass I'll triple check every wire before even connecting it to my psu tester and turning the switch on. Motherboard side looks so clean but PSU side looks like a mess with all these twists and tangles.


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Virgule*
> 
> I've done the top half of the 24 pin so far including 3 double wires. It's not that hard but you bet your ass I'll triple check every wire before even connecting it to my psu tester and turning the switch on. Motherboard side looks so clean but PSU side looks like a mess with all these twists and tangles.


Nice to get the hard part out of the way first! I personally dislike doing double wires as I use krazy glue to stick the sleeving to the solder joint before sliding heatshrink over the joint+sleeving to cover everything up - that stuff will get stuck and never come off.


----------



## Sindre2104

Hello,
I am considering sleeving my Cooler Master V850, and looking at the pinout in the OP of this thread the pinout is 1:1?

If that is wrong, and there is double cables and the like, would it be undoable/too ugly to do a 20cm 24pin cable?
The PSU is in a caselabs S3, so the cable run is almost shaped like a circle for the 24 pin.

I have all the tools and have sleeved before, but i am considering ordering custom made ones from icemodz, just because its hassle free.
Only problem is they have a min. length of 30cm.


----------



## eTanium

First, thank you all for sharing this wealth of information. I tried to read through this entire thread, but my eyes gave out on page #36. I did find answers to several questions that I had, but there is still one that remains>

First, some back story/validation of my found answers, if you will.

So, I just bought everything I need from https://mainframecustom.com and started tearing down my first test wire, a PCI-E 6+2.

The first thing that I needed was to find the pin layout for my EVGA SuperNOVA G3 850W. I still plan on using my multimeter to verify this layout.

Post #293

I was thinking about shortening the stock cables, and then making extension cables, but I decided against it. Much like the idea here.

Post #25

Next, I wanted to see if the pin layout, going from the PSU, to the 6+8, could be rearranged to a 1:1 ratio, which would remove the need to shorten the stock cables, and then make extensions. This seems to be the case.

Post #177

And the standard pin layout for 6+2 (or just 8) pin PCI-E.

Post #273

Finally, my question is about the capacitor that is at the GPU end of the 6+2 connector. I want to move it to the back of the cable, closer to the PSU. Additionally, since I am going to be rearranging the pin layouts, I want to make sure that changing the cables, that this capacitor is connected to, won't damage, it or dampen it's value.

I've been told that it can be removed without issue, but unless someone can talk me out of it - providing test data - that I don't need it, I would like to keep it (and others, but more on that later), in place.

So, in regards to the attached image, which illustrates the stock layout/relation, I want to rearrange the connection from the back of the PSU, to the GPU 6+2, so that the wires are 1:1. Additionally, I would like to keep the capacitor at the end of the connector. That would mean that the GPU 6+2 connector would be rearranged to receive wires from the PSU as follows, (Bottom, left to right), 4321, and (Top, left to right), 8765. This would mean that I would have to then connect the capacitor to Ground #5, and to +12v #1.

Would changing the capacitor connector wire cause any ill effect, or dampen its initial benefit?

I will be moving onto the MB, CPU, and peripheral cables next. Although I haven't broken down this PSU's MB cable, I'm quite certain that there is another +12v capacitor, as well as a 5v, and 3.xv capacitor. So, the same question goes for these as well. Can I change their connecting wires, as long as they match up to the original voltage/ground?

Thank you much in advance!


----------



## elbartek

Hello guys!

First, great work on those pinouts! Great !
I have heard that some companies (like Dell perhaps) have, historically, changed the pinout scheme of the power input to their motherboards, but used the same ATX specified 24 pin connectors and 4/8 pin cpu connectors... And guess what, the documentation is not really there. However, from searching about info online, I hear they went back to the standard...

But okay, for server racks, the psu units are great and reliable, but we have to, most of the time, find out the power rail outputs and we usually get their max output power either in a datasheet or on the sticker or from test... mostly they output 12v at high amperage... they're cheap and you can find some for under 20$ shipped... with 500w - 1400w range!

Only thing you need, is a converter board, that converts them to standard ATX+PCIE... and voila, some are even rated 80 plus silver/gold... the newer ones.

My project, which I started, is to harvest most of these pinouts, and produce a PCB adapter with point of load DC DC converters that convert the 12v to 5v and 3.3v and have all ATX connectors (24pin, ecs 8pin, cpu 4pin ... etc) ... converter boards are available for some servers/workstation that are specific for a psu, but cost a lot of $$$, not like the PSU...

My board would approx. cost in the range of 20 to 40$ depending on my source of reasonably good DC to DC point of load converters (>80% efficient at all >20% loads) ... I am testing three different units which cost from 5$ to 15$ per unit and offer in the range of 15-20A per unit of output. In theory I would need two units (30A) for 3.3v and two units for 5v (30A).. that would recreate a very good atx psu.

So, here, you would buy a server PSU (500w - 1400w) for 20-40$, buy my board for 20-40$ and have a high end very reliable and durable high power PSU for your rig... as an example check out the HP DL380 G5 1000W Power Supply PSU... which outputs 1000w... you can get it for below 40$ with shipping. However, you would have to have some modding skills for most installs... the pins on most server psus are not a standard format, you would either have to solder or use a special connector.

Why do I do this?
Well, for many reasons...

1. High end server companies force their clients to upgrade PSUs for their own proprietary models... hence they throw away or sell real cheap the old ones...
2. The old psus are still great and perform great (stability, efficiency, reliability wise...)
3. From an ecological perspective, we are wasting so much and polluting by throwing away good hardware and buying new.
4. It is cheaper, and way better than buying a 1000w atx cheap psu that costs above 70$.

======

What led me to this...

I just got a good priced motherboard for my new built... I want to install a Xeon e5-v2690 v4 on this... but the problem is...

The motherboard is from a Dell T7810, check it out... great mobo... but here's the deal:

1. one ATX24 connector for main power..
2. two "10 PIN" CONNECTORS for power2 and power3 (for each cpu ? or more 12v rails ?)

now, I don't have the original psu and don't want to buy one (100$ at least) and don't want to buy the power distribution board (>50$)

and, guess what, dell doesn't give any technical guide manual for this motherboard at all... so..

I am lest with my oscilloscope, logic analyzer and DMM... and my EE skills...

My point is to stay under 800$ for this build... I will not buy another board if I can find out the pinouts.

Anyone has any information ? I would be grateful ... instead of spending hours on figuring it out and perhaps burning something.

The great thing is... The original PSU only has ::
(D825ef)
1. 7 x 12v at 18a rails
2. -12v at 0.5a
3. +12vsb at 2a

which is great!?! the 12vsb is the standby voltage which is always on as long as the AC is connected... no problems there..
and the great thing is only 12V are used ? the converters are on the mobo ? I will check it out...
hence, I can't mess up things too much...

I have checked out the interwebs for hours searching for a 10pin ECS or ATX standard for motherboard power supply connection, and did only find some dell units which use one 10 pin for power for ultra small form factor... that is not it... this seems like some proprietary thing DELL used to disallow using a normal PSU...

However, I checked some high res power distribution board pictures, and, these connectors seem only to feed +12V and ground...

anyone had some experience with this ?


----------



## iam2big2fail

Quick question on EVGA P2:

My 18 & 10 pin PSU cables have redundant/extra connections (splits) on:

pin 12 (18 pin PSU) and pin 14 (18 pin PSU) for GND pin 5 (24 ATX)
pin 13 (18 pin PSU) and pin 1 (10 pin PSU) for GND pin 17 (24 ATX)
pin 10 (10 pin PSU) and pin 9 (10 pin PSU) for 5V pin 6 (24 ATX)
pin 8 (18 pin PSU) and pin 3 (18 pin PSU) 3.3V pin 2 (24 ATX)

Are these really necessary? I'm using 18 AWG and gold-plated connectors that candle handle 9A. Shouldn't this be more than sufficient so I don't have to bother splicing my cables (i.e. only 24 (-1) total connections from PSU to MB)?


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iam2big2fail*
> 
> Quick question on EVGA P2:
> 
> My 18 & 10 pin PSU cables have redundant/extra connections (splits) on:
> 
> pin 12 (18 pin PSU) and pin 14 (18 pin PSU) for GND pin 5 (24 ATX)
> pin 13 (18 pin PSU) and pin 1 (10 pin PSU) for GND pin 17 (24 ATX)
> pin 10 (10 pin PSU) and pin 9 (10 pin PSU) for 5V pin 6 (24 ATX)
> pin 8 (18 pin PSU) and pin 3 (18 pin PSU) 3.3V pin 2 (24 ATX)
> 
> Are these really necessary? I'm using 18 AWG and gold-plated connectors that candle handle 9A. Shouldn't this be more than sufficient so I don't have to bother splicing my cables (i.e. only 24 (-1) total connections from PSU to MB)?


Yes, they are all important. You will definitely need to do some cable splicing.

Moreover, make sure to test the cables, very important.


----------



## Revan654

I was wondering if anyone whats going on with my one PSU.

I have two PSU both are EVGA and both are from the P2 series. An 850 and a 1000.

I just finished making my cables (I followed the pin layout in the very first post in this thread). This is where the issues starts. The 850 will not turn on using my ATX or my GPU cables(all the other cables are fine, Sata, EPS, Molex). However the 1000 has no problem turning on with all the cables plugged in.

I tried just ATX and GPU to just make sure the 850 PSU was not overloaded (I only have one GPU, I doubt that's the issue).

Lastly I have two D5 pump at speed of 3. With the 850 is having problems pushing the water to the top section of my case. With 1000 it has zero issues.

I assume the 850 PSU faulty (RMA time)? Unless theirs a different pin layout for the 850?


----------



## colinreay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I was wondering if anyone whats going on with my one PSU.
> I assume the 850 PSU faulty (RMA time)? Unless theirs a different pin layout for the 850?


They should have the same pinout...

Dumb question, but did you ever verify the 850 to work, even with stock cables? I would also get a PSU tester, something like the Dr. Power is quite handy for testing PSUs.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colinreay*
> 
> They should have the same pinout...
> 
> Dumb question, but did you ever verify the 850 to work, even with stock cables? I would also get a PSU tester, something like the Dr. Power is quite handy for testing PSUs.


It's strange. I got it working on the outside, the second I install on the inside of my case. Used the same jumper, Dead as door knob.


----------



## NeeqOne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> It's strange. I got it working on the outside, the second I install on the inside of my case. Used the same jumper, Dead as door knob.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Don't rely on any Pin-outs. It is always good to do your own pin-outs diagrams. Moreover, don't connect the PSU cables without testing. I second the advise to get the Dr. Power II PSU tester.


----------



## iRonMan22

Hey All! I have been reading this thread diligently and I have to say thanks to all who have contributed here. You have all helped me so much in understanding this dreaded 24 pin out. I have an EVGA 1000 G2 PSU and I too would like to custom sleeve it myself. I have all of the parts/items/tools needed to do the deed but I am stuck on this capacitor issue. This is what it looks like for me (as I'm sure it does for everyone else):



Also, just to reiterate what everyone else has been saying, MAKE YOUR OWN PINOUT! I'm so glad that I did not only to make sure it was right, but for the learning experience as well. All the same, I am including my personal PINOUT for anyone who would like to compare/check their own against. This PINOUT is specific to the EVGA 1000 G2 PSU only. AGAIN, do your won pinout to be sure and to double check it is correct. But it doesn't hurt to compare yours to mine to see if they are the same, extra validation, right?! Here it is:



Anyway, I would like to sleeve these myself, especially because the CableMod 24 pin custom cable is $40 + $20 flat shipping cost (come on! $20?? for a 0.09 lb cable? I ask you...). I read on here that you can just cut off the capacitors, but I would rather keep them for the sake of things being done exactly right and in the off chance down the line I actually need them. Then I read that I can just cut them off where they are and splice them onto the same wires but lower down the line toward the PSU so that they are not noticeable (as long as the polarities are the same as they originally were). Is this true? I think this sounds like the best option for me. I just want additional verification and to maybe discuss my method with the community before just doing it. Also, if anyone has any better solutions I am all ears! Thanks again!


----------



## alltheGHz

Cut the capacitors, they are meant to regulate differences in electrical surges or something, but I've been running my rig without them for a year now and it's just fine. Just make sure they are cut all the way down to prevent a short.


----------



## Virgule

Hey @SimonOcean ,

Just wanted to update you on my sleeving. I've been really busy on a different client build lately but I've done the 24pin of my RM1000i. I'll edit a photo in this post real soon. I haven't tested anything yet but I'll get on that as well.

I'm getting ready to put that aside again to sleeve a RM850i for another client. Do you know if your RM1000i diagrams apply for the RM850i ?

Thanks for all your help!


----------



## SimonOcean

Sorry, not sure regarding the RM850i. I think Corsair themselves do a braided cables accessory for the RMi series. Maybe you can check to see if the ones that are suitable for RM1000i are suitable for RM850i. That should answer your question.


----------



## Virgule

Nice trick!


----------



## ViolentColor

I've tried searching around a little bit, but couldn't find one anywhere. I did a pinout for my Seasonic Prime Titanium 650w, but wanted to compare against someone elses to check my work. This is my first time sleeving, so I wanted to make sure I did it right!


----------



## Virgule

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SimonOcean*
> 
> Sorry, not sure regarding the RM850i. I think Corsair themselves do a braided cables accessory for the RMi series. Maybe you can check to see if the ones that are suitable for RM1000i are suitable for RM850i. That should answer your question.


Hey,

Just wanted to follow-up my last post with a proper response from Corsair. The RM850i and the RM1000i do indeed share the same pinout. Here is Corsair's response :


Also, here are my 24pin and 8pin EPS cables for the RM1000i. I'll let you guess which ends are hidden and which are shown.




Thanks for all your help @SimonOcean


----------



## SimonOcean

You are welcome. Congratulations: it looks like you have done a VERY neat job there. Well done.


----------



## ZestyChicken

So I'm working on developing the pin out for a Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 850W Gold Full Modular. Basically I just followed the wires and based it on the standard 24 pin mapping.

Here's my question. The pin 17 on the motherboard connector is empty. This is just a ground. For cosmetic reasons, I want to fill this pin. Can I just route it to Pin 14 on PSU1 (18 pin) which is currently one of two pins fed from pin 24 on the motherboard connector. Bottom line - isn't a ground a ground?

Here's what I have so far (THIS IS UNTESTED AND IS A WORK-IN-PROCESS - ONLY POSTED TO GET INPUT FROM THE FORUM):

MOTHERBOARD
Pin Name
1 +3.3V
2 +3.3V
3 COM Ground
4 +5V
5 COM Ground
6 +5V
7 COM Ground
8 PWR_ON Power Good
9 +5V Standby
10 +12V1
11 +12V1
12 +3.3V
13 +3.3V
14 -12V
15 COM Ground
16 PS_ON# Power Supply On
17 COM Ground **************this pin is empty on the Thermaltake PSU cable************
18 COM Ground
19 COM Ground
20 NC -5 VDC
21 +5V
22 +5V
23 +5V
24 COM Ground

PSU 1 (18 pin)
Pin MB Pin Name
1 9 +5V Standby
2 9 +5V Standby
3 7 COM Ground
4 16 PS_ON# Power Supply On
5 15 COM Ground
6 22 +5V
7 21 +5V
8 23 +5V
9 13 +3.3V
10 12 +3.3V
11 11 +12V1
12 1 +3.3V
13 24 COM Ground
14 24 COM Ground
15 5 COM Ground
16 14 -12V
17 4 +5V
18 19 COM Ground

PSU 2 (10 pin)
Pin MB Pin Name
1 8 PWR_ON Power Good
2 8 PWR_ON Power Good
3 2 +3.3V
4 3 COM Ground
5 3 COM Ground
6 20 NC -5 VDC
7 10 +12V1
8 10 +12V1
9 18 COM Ground
10 6 +5V


----------



## Revan654

Anyone have a diagram for six pin pcie to PSU side(EVGA T2). Where each wire goes & which one is double crimped? I can't seem to find a proper picture.


----------



## I-Siamak-I

Hello guys,

I have a EVGA Supernova 1000 P2 Power Supply which I wanna do a custom sleeving on, I just wanna know is there any way to get rid of the double wires that goes into a single connector on the 24 pin connector?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *I-Siamak-I*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I have a EVGA Supernova 1000 P2 Power Supply which I wanna do a custom sleeving on, I just wanna know is there any way to get rid of the double wires that goes into a single connector on the 24 pin connector?


No, Double wires are required. The only way around it is to solder three wires together at some point from Motherboard to PSU.


----------



## doesntevenMATer

I couldn't find a reliable diagram for the Corsair AX760/860 so I picked up a cheap circuit tester and made one using a template I found on here. Hope this can help someone out.


----------



## Jubijub

Quick question : I have bought a multimeter, which I plan to use to do the pin outs diagram.

For the from/to diagram for the housings wiring, I just need the continuity mode, no questions there

However, if I want to test with the PSU running to know what type of voltage is supplied by which wire : do you confirm there is no harm for the PSU/the multimeter/myself if for instance I put the two multimeter pins on 2 different 12V connector pins ?

Another example : a "molex" mate'n lock 4 pin has 12v, GND, GND, 5V : what happens if I put the multimeter in 12v and 5v ?
If I remember my physics / "technology" courses, the multimeter measures a difference of potential, so I should read 7 or -7, is that correct ?


----------



## shakmods

i think you got the pinout all wrong. 17 is never empty, 20 is always empty.
did you get the cable working?
do you have a newer updated version of this pinout?


----------



## shakmods

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZestyChicken*
> 
> So I'm working on developing the pin out for a Thermaltake Toughpower Grand RGB 850W Gold Full Modular. Basically I just followed the wires and based it on the standard 24 pin mapping.
> 
> Here's my question. The pin 17 on the motherboard connector is empty. This is just a ground. For cosmetic reasons, I want to fill this pin. Can I just route it to Pin 14 on PSU1 (18 pin) which is currently one of two pins fed from pin 24 on the motherboard connector. Bottom line - isn't a ground a ground?
> 
> Here's what I have so far (THIS IS UNTESTED AND IS A WORK-IN-PROCESS - ONLY POSTED TO GET INPUT FROM THE FORUM):
> 
> MOTHERBOARD
> Pin Name
> 1 +3.3V
> 2 +3.3V
> 3 COM Ground
> 4 +5V
> 5 COM Ground
> 6 +5V
> 7 COM Ground
> 8 PWR_ON Power Good
> 9 +5V Standby
> 10 +12V1
> 11 +12V1
> 12 +3.3V
> 13 +3.3V
> 14 -12V
> 15 COM Ground
> 16 PS_ON# Power Supply On
> 17 COM Ground **************this pin is empty on the Thermaltake PSU cable************
> 18 COM Ground
> 19 COM Ground
> 20 NC -5 VDC
> 21 +5V
> 22 +5V
> 23 +5V
> 24 COM Ground
> 
> PSU 1 (18 pin)
> Pin MB Pin Name
> 1 9 +5V Standby
> 2 9 +5V Standby
> 3 7 COM Ground
> 4 16 PS_ON# Power Supply On
> 5 15 COM Ground
> 6 22 +5V
> 7 21 +5V
> 8 23 +5V
> 9 13 +3.3V
> 10 12 +3.3V
> 11 11 +12V1
> 12 1 +3.3V
> 13 24 COM Ground
> 14 24 COM Ground
> 15 5 COM Ground
> 16 14 -12V
> 17 4 +5V
> 18 19 COM Ground
> 
> PSU 2 (10 pin)
> Pin MB Pin Name
> 1 8 PWR_ON Power Good
> 2 8 PWR_ON Power Good
> 3 2 +3.3V
> 4 3 COM Ground
> 5 3 COM Ground
> 6 20 NC -5 VDC
> 7 10 +12V1
> 8 10 +12V1
> 9 18 COM Ground
> 10 6 +5V


i think you got the pinout all wrong. 17 is never empty, 20 is always empty.
did you get the cable working?
do you have a newer updated version of this pinout?


----------



## Daggi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quick question : I have bought a multimeter, which I plan to use to do the pin outs diagram.
> 
> For the from/to diagram for the housings wiring, I just need the continuity mode, no questions there
> 
> However, if I want to test with the PSU running to know what type of voltage is supplied by which wire : do you confirm there is no harm for the PSU/the multimeter/myself if for instance I put the two multimeter pins on 2 different 12V connector pins ?
> 
> Another example : a "molex" mate'n lock 4 pin has 12v, GND, GND, 5V : what happens if I put the multimeter in 12v and 5v ?
> If I remember my physics / "technology" courses, the multimeter measures a difference of potential, so I should read 7 or -7, is that correct ?


I read 7 volts on my multimeter when i connect the black (ground) test probe to the 5 volt and the red(positiv) test probe to the 12 volt on the 4 pin molex connector


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Quick question : I have bought a multimeter, which I plan to use to do the pin outs diagram.
> 
> For the from/to diagram for the housings wiring, I just need the continuity mode, no questions there
> 
> However, if I want to test with the PSU running to know what type of voltage is supplied by which wire : do you confirm there is no harm for the PSU/the multimeter/myself if for instance I put the two multimeter pins on 2 different 12V connector pins ?
> 
> Another example : a "molex" mate'n lock 4 pin has 12v, GND, GND, 5V : what happens if I put the multimeter in 12v and 5v ?
> If I remember my physics / "technology" courses, the multimeter measures a difference of potential, so I should read 7 or -7, is that correct ?


First, just work safely. It's really easy to get seriously hurt if you don't know what you're doing when working with the sort of currents a PSU can put out, even if they're DC. It's surprising how many how-to sites and videos don't emphasize that enough; sometimes it seems like we've been using power supplies for so long they've become second nature, making me wonder if some us haven't become complacent about the safety aspects.

As for your questions about measuring voltage across the two live points used in your example, I think you're asking just in case you do so by accident or come across an incorrectly wired cable, but correct me if I'm mistaken. As long as your multimeter is set to measure (e.g., dc voltage) and you're not touching either of the metal parts on the test leads directly, no harm should come to you, the power supply, or the multimeter. That said, the difference noted above (12-5 = 7) by Daggi is similar to what's called a differential measurement, which has its purposes in things like (e.g.) data acquisition. To measure these two voltages properly, you need a ground reference, and you need to measure one voltage at a time.

You might find the following link interesting, though it doesn't go into detail about how to use a multimeter:

*How To Measure Voltage*

Lastly, the proper to check the voltage outputs of your psu is under load, which can be accomplished by hooking it up in your system and turning it on. It helps to first use one of those *psu idiot checkers* and ensure your wiring/cabling is correct, if you don't want to blow things up.

Again, be safe (and have fun)!


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Daggi*
> 
> I read 7 volts on my multimeter when i connect the black (ground) test probe to the 5 volt and the red(positiv) test probe to the 12 volt on the 4 pin molex connector


Thanks, this is exactly what I wanted to know

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> First, just work safely. It's really easy to get seriously hurt if you don't know what you're doing when working with the sort of currents a PSU can put out, even if they're DC. It's surprising how many how-to sites and videos don't emphasize that enough; sometimes it seems like we've been using power supplies for so long they've become second nature, making me wonder if some us haven't become complacent about the safety aspects.
> 
> As for your questions about measuring voltage across the two live points used in your example, I think you're asking just in case you do so by accident or come across an incorrectly wired cable, but correct me if I'm mistaken. As long as your multimeter is set to measure (e.g., dc voltage) and you're not touching either of the metal parts on the test leads directly, no harm should come to you, the power supply, or the multimeter. That said, the difference noted above (12-5 = 7) by Daggi is similar to what's called a differential measurement, which has its purposes in things like (e.g.) data acquisition. To measure these two voltages properly, you need a ground reference, and you need to measure one voltage at a time.
> 
> You might find the following link interesting, though it doesn't go into detail about how to use a multimeter:
> 
> *How To Measure Voltage*
> 
> Lastly, the proper to check the voltage outputs of your psu is under load, which can be accomplished by hooking it up in your system and turning it on. It helps to first use one of those *psu idiot checkers* and ensure your wiring/cabling is correct, if you don't want to blow things up.
> 
> Again, be safe (and have fun)!


Precisely, I am trying to be cautious









I've seen a couple of vidz about voltage measurement, my question was exactly about differential measurement.
If you start from a known pin out then places where to find ground are obvious, my question was more out of curiosity: what if you don't know where the ground is ?
Daggi's answer shows there is no problem : you will simply get the potential difference between the two pins, which will give an odd value if the COM plug is not on a ground pin.

To build the cables though, all I need is continuity testing really, which is done unplugged


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> If you start from a known pin out then places where to find ground are obvious, my question was more out of curiosity: what if you don't know where the ground is ?


That's a fairly easy one to answer... most encased electrical components like power supplies, audio components, car engine electronics, etc., use their chassis as a common ground. If you ohm out a wiring connection to such a chassis and it reads 0 ohms, in all likelihood you've probably found a ground connection you can use (or one that shouldn't be there). There are exceptions to that of course (e.g., like checking continuity through a path that contains a diode imposing very little to no resistance when proper polarity with respect to the multimeter leads is observed),


----------



## ZestyChicken

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shakmods*
> 
> i think you got the pinout all wrong. 17 is never empty, 20 is always empty.
> did you get the cable working?
> do you have a newer updated version of this pinout?


This worked fine for me. It could be you are not using the same pin layout as me if you don't have the same PSU. Or perhaps you're not using the same pin as 1. I used this as the model:



To resolve the missing wire issue, I ended up creating two cables. The first is a female to female Y cable which takes the PSU 10 and 18 cables to a 24 pin cable. The second is a 24 pin extension cable, male to female which is quite a bit simpler to make. I added a wire for pin 17 on the extension but nothing is feeding it.

Two benefits to doing this. 1) I hide all the kludge (Ys, missing cable) behind my case. 2) I can make the color scheme whatever I want on each side without doing a ton of shrink wrap and split sleeving.


----------



## ZestyChicken

I liked the way the Corsair guy did his. Here's my 24 pin using the same layout. I'm not going to renumber everything using the same 1 as he did as I'd likely screw it up.


----------



## shakmods

Thanks for the drawing, so do you have the pinout for cpu, gpu and sata cable as well? Thanks in advance


----------



## ZestyChicken

I liked the way the Corsair guy did his. Here's my 24 pin using the same layout. I'm not going to renumber everything though as I'd likely screw it up.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shakmods*
> 
> Thanks for the drawing, so do you have the pinout for cpu, gpu and sata cable as well? Thanks in advance


I do but I'm not sure it's right. From my notes, I have two pin layouts. I would have to work from the cord to produce it and I'm away from home for the next 10 days. I don't want to post anything wrong. However, if you have the original cable, it's very easy to figure out yourself. Depending on your MB, you may need to split 4 of the wires to make a second EPS connection (my MB required 8+4).


----------



## iamjanco

Starting my cable and PSU pinouts (WIP):



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Note: I will be making my own cables based on the data I've collected.

Edited 05/30/17: Underway, drawing started (I'll sign off on this when it's complete). About the artwork: First, thanks to Devious Dog for the the initial template, this saves me a lot of time. Though the fonts were toasted during the conversion from PDF to .ai, everything else came through like a champ.. I suspect you (he) did the drawing in a CAD equivalent app.



Edited 09/03/17, bumped to v0.7 (WIP); added SATA POWER connector:



PDF version of both pages combined (updated 09/03/17, added SATA POWER Connector, bumped to rev 0.7):

EVGASuperNOVA1000T2WiringDiagramv0.7-DRAFT.pdf 1310k .pdf file




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Crimp tool arrived (06/1/17):


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Starting my cable and PSU pinouts (WIP):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: I will be making my own cables based on the data I've collected.


Looking forward to this. I have started my own, but get weird readings due to capacitors. (so I have continuity between GND and +5 pins







)
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pyLjjzLpYIjZbSwb7tLN0UpASNVofI-S4W8BQBw6K18/edit?usp=sharing

Which begs the question : how can one properly check the wiring without having to strip the PSU cable to see how it is physically wired ? I have a multimeter, but apparently the continuity check approach doesn't work because capacitors create bridges between wires

It also seems that my pin out differs from the one posted on the first page for EVGA power supplies (I have a brand new 1200 P2).
For instance, wire that goes to the 19pin on the 24 pin Mobo side doesn't go to the same 10/18 connectors pins.

Edit : I am a huge tool







I realized that when testing polarity mattered, and some of my "continuity tests"don't work the other way around. This will help me to sort out wired connection vs continuity happening through the capacitors


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Looking forward to this. I have started my own, but get weird readings due to capacitors. (so I have continuity between GND and +5 pins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pyLjjzLpYIjZbSwb7tLN0UpASNVofI-S4W8BQBw6K18/edit?usp=sharing
> 
> Which begs the question : how can one properly check the wiring without having to strip the PSU cable to see how it is physically wired ? I have a multimeter, but apparently the continuity check approach doesn't work because capacitors create bridges between wires
> 
> It also seems that my pin out differs from the one posted on the first page for EVGA power supplies (I have a brand new 1200 P2).
> For instance, wire that goes to the 19pin on the 24 pin Mobo side doesn't go to the same 10/18 connectors pins.
> 
> Edit : I am a huge tool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I realized that when testing polarity mattered, and some of my "continuity tests"don't work the other way around. This will help me to sort out wired connection vs continuity happening through the capacitors


Glad you sorted out the cap related question. They're electrolytics, and can charge and discharge (polarity dependent) when using a multimeter, since you're connecting a potential to them. Polarity matters in this case.

As for the pinouts differing, I tend to be a little wary of what's available in these threads datawise, unless I'm familiar with the source. For instance, I've seen a number of illustrations here and elsewhere label their connectors' pin numbering in different ways (e.g., clockwise from 1-24, counterclockwise, etc.), but it's best to try to stick to the tiny little numbers on the backs of the housing when coming up with diagrams and schematics. The only exception to that might be unless an oem has specifically labeled them otherwise in their docs, and used the terminal housings they do because they sufficed (not all housings are labeled, but most produced by Molex, TE/AMP, etc., typically are).


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Glad you sorted out the cap related question. They're electrolytics, and can charge and discharge (polarity dependent) when using a multimeter, since you're connecting a potential to them. Polarity matters in this case.
> 
> As for the pinouts differing, I tend to be a little wary of what's available in these threads datawise, unless I'm familiar with the source. For instance, I've seen a number of illustrations here and elsewhere label their connectors' pin numbering in different ways (e.g., clockwise from 1-24, counterclockwise, etc.), but it's best to try to stick to the tiny little numbers on the backs of the housing when coming up with diagrams and schematics. The only exception to that might be unless an oem has specifically labeled them otherwise in their docs, and used the terminal housings they do because they sufficed (not all housings are labeled, but most produced by Molex, TE/AMP, etc., typically are).


I did a full session with the PSU on, to check which voltage I would read PSU side, and which voltage I would read component side. Mixing this with the pin out done with the continuity testing should give me a good map of which wire carries which voltage, from where to where.

For numbering you have a good point, I used the rear view / Molex numbering (ie 1 in bottom right on rear view with connector lock up), with each row starting on the right (ie neither clockwise nor counterclockwise)
But even when similar numbering is used, I found differences. None in the voltages obviously (a ground is still a ground), but sometime a given pin is plugged to a different place PSU side vs what I could read here).
As I don't know any better, I will make safe replicas of the my existing cables, with 4 differences :
- different lengths
- no double crimping, but wire splicing instead (i need the case to figure out where to put the splice so it is located behind the backplate)
- no capacitors
- full 16AWG so I won't have to bother with wire size

Updates of my findings : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pyLjjzLpYIjZbSwb7tLN0UpASNVofI-S4W8BQBw6K18/edit?usp=sharing (still raw, I haven't formatted it much on the second tab)

Edit : I have confirmed that for the main 24pin (which on the EVGA P1200 is connected to a 18pin + 10pin on PSU side), the pinning on the first page is not accurate :
- what gets out of the PSU from the 18 + 10 is accurate
- which PSU pin goes to which pin of the 24pin is wrong however (I have no doubt it is accurate for the PSU on which it was made, but it doesn't match how EVGA P1200 cables are wired). As the voltage are the same, the wires would probably all work, but there might be an underlying reason why EVGA decided to wire the cables differently.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I did a full session with the PSU on, to check which voltage I would read PSU side, and which voltage I would read component side. Mixing this with the pin out done with the continuity testing should give me a good map of which wire carries which voltage, from where to where.
> 
> For numbering you have a good point, I used the rear view / Molex numbering (ie 1 in bottom right on rear view with connector lock up), with each row starting on the right (ie neither clockwise nor counterclockwise)
> But even when similar numbering is used, I found differences. None in the voltages obviously (a ground is still a ground), but sometime a given pin is plugged to a different place PSU side vs what I could read here).
> As I don't know any better, I will make safe replicas of the my existing cables, with 4 differences :
> - different lengths
> - no double crimping, but wire splicing instead (i need the case to figure out where to put the splice so it is located behind the backplate)
> - no capacitors
> - full 16AWG so I won't have to bother with wire size
> 
> Updates of my findings : https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1pyLjjzLpYIjZbSwb7tLN0UpASNVofI-S4W8BQBw6K18/edit?usp=sharing (still raw, I haven't formatted it much on the second tab)
> 
> Edit : I have confirmed that for the main 24pin (which on the EVGA P1200 is connected to a 18pin + 10pin on PSU side), the pinning on the first page is not accurate :
> - what gets out of the PSU from the 18 + 10 is accurate
> - which PSU pin goes to which pin of the 24pin is wrong however (I have no doubt it is accurate for the PSU on which it was made, but it doesn't match how EVGA P1200 cables are wired). As the voltage are the same, the wires would probably all work, but there might be an underlying reason why EVGA decided to wire the cables differently.


It may not be the most up to date version, However it will work without any issues. Cablemod uses a different layout then EVGA & is different from photo on the first page.

You can use this one, I have note compared it to photo on the front page. I'm not sure if it's the same or not.


----------



## Jubijub

The component side (obviously) and the PSU side are exactly the same on your picture, what's on the front page, and what I found.
My point is more on how the wiring itself is done. EVGA may or may not decide to wire differently based on the power of the PSU, I don't know.
For instance : the 24pin connector has 5x +5V pin, while on the PSU side there are 6. This means there has to be a double wire, but that also means that any 2 given +5V could be bundled together for that. And I don't know what is the rationale for picking those two, nor what are the consequences if you don't pick the same 2, so I'm gonna play safe and pick the exact same ones as those EVGA chose on my particular model.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> The component side (obviously) and the PSU side are exactly the same on your picture, what's on the front page, and what I found.
> My point is more on how the wiring itself is done. EVGA may or may not decide to wire differently based on the power of the PSU, I don't know.
> For instance : the 24pin connector has 5x +5V pin, while on the PSU side there are 6. This means there has to be a double wire, but that also means that any 2 given +5V could be bundled together for that. And I don't know what is the rationale for picking those two, nor what are the consequences if you don't pick the same 2, so I'm gonna play safe and pick the exact same ones as those EVGA chose on my particular model.


This is the layout I used for my P2 PSU & I don't have any issues with it. I'm going to stick with this since I know it works.

You can contact EVGA tech support & ask them. You could also post in there forums & wait to hear from someone at EVGA.

This is the layout that Ice-modz & Mod-One uses(Even though Mod-One doesn't do custom cables yet). I believe singularity computers also uses this.


----------



## Jubijub

Wow Iamjanco, very clean drawings









Ah wiring diagrams and pinouts, all my professional debuts








Now that I'm trying to do a poor 24pin cable, I realize how automotive harnesses were beautiful things


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Wow Iamjanco, very clean drawings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ah wiring diagrams and pinouts, all my professional debuts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now that I'm trying to do a poor 24pin cable, I realize how automotive harnesses were beautiful things


Thanks, but I have to give much of the credit to Devious Dog, as he came up with the original template for his Corsair PSU. I'm just moving things around in it that survived the conversion process from PDF to Illustrator .ai, and tailoring it my PSU.

I will say that his PSU pinouts differ vastly from what EVGA came up with. Motherboard connectors should be the same or similar though, depending on any changes made to the specs since the time he created his version. I'm also referencing the specs I have access to, to help ensure everything jives.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Crimp tool arrived (06/1/17):


I would have gotten this tool as well however, I needed to crimp more then just mini Fit Jr. terminals. I would be looking at around 1k just in crimping tools(Mini Fit Jr., Dupont, Plus others). It's why In the end I went with engineer crimping tool. It's amazing tool, better then my MDPC-X tool.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I would have gotten this tool as well however, I needed to crimp more then just mini Fit Jr. terminals. I would be looking at around 1k just in crimping tools(Mini Fit Jr.,
> 
> Dupont, Plus others). It's why In the end I went with engineer crimping tool. It's amazing tool, better then my MDPC-X tool.


Understood. I realize not everyone is going to fork out the kind of money it takes to purchase official tools, and acknowledge that if what you're using works for you, it's okay by me.

*Pinouts diagrams for EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2* updated (still a work in progress).


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Understood. I realize not everyone is going to fork out the kind of money it takes to purchase official tools, and acknowledge that if what you're using works for you, it's okay by me.
> 
> *Pinouts diagrams for EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2* updated (still a work in progress).


Can you tell me what the preload is set to on your crimper? It's the small numbered dial on the grip. I accidentally changed mine.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Can you tell me what the preload is set to on your crimper? It's the small numbered dial on the grip. I accidentally changed mine.


Out of the box, it's set to 5. The instructions also state that the factory preset preload is set to 25-45lbs of force.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thanks, but I have to give much of the credit to Devious Dog, as he came up with the original template for his Corsair PSU. I'm just moving things around in it that survived the conversion process from PDF to Illustrator .ai, and tailoring it my PSU.
> 
> I will say that his PSU pinouts differ vastly from what EVGA came up with. Motherboard connectors should be the same or similar though, depending on any changes made to the specs since the time he created his version. I'm also referencing the specs I have access to, to help ensure everything jives.


I made my front connectors on illustrator today as well. Used the Molex drawings on which I "drew over"
I tried Google schematics, but it is really badly suited for this type of things.

I looked at your drawing and indeed spotted differences as well.

Here is a WIP, I need to figure out what layout I want to put. Ideally I'd like to be able to print it to support the actual wiring process.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Starting my cable and PSU pinouts (WIP):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Note: I will be making my own cables based on the data I've collected.
> 
> Edited 05/30/17: Underway, drawing started (I'll sign off on this when it's complete). About the artwork: First, thanks to Devious Dog for the the initial template, this saves me a lot of time. Though the fonts were toasted during the conversion from PDF to .ai, everything else came through like a champ.. I suspect you (he) did the drawing in a CAD equivalent app.
> 
> 
> 
> Edited 06/3/17 (WIP):


Nice start so far. The one photo size should be increased(The one with all the data), It's a bit hard to read on larger monitors.


----------



## homingmystic

Sorry for a stupid question, but just trying to figure this out before going ahead, I have a Seasonic X750 I have saw the pin out, but what orientation does the plastic connector have to face, I have attached a basic picture for reference. Many Thanks!


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Out of the box, it's set to 5. The instructions also state that the factory preset preload is set to 25-45lbs of force.


Thanks. Is this how yours is set?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Thanks. Is this how yours is set?


Sure is, exactly.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Nice start so far. The one photo size should be increased(The one with all the data), It's a bit hard to read on larger monitors.


Now I understand why you post such large pictures.







I'm using an NEC PA272W at my end. That said, I've added PDF attachments that you should be able to download and enlarge to your heart's content. All fonts have been outlined in the two files.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I made my front connectors on illustrator today as well. Used the Molex drawings on which I "drew over"
> I tried Google schematics, but it is really badly suited for this type of things.
> 
> I looked at your drawing and indeed spotted differences as well.
> 
> Here is a WIP, I need to figure out what layout I want to put. Ideally I'd like to be able to print it to support the actual wiring process.


Just an fyi that I updated the drawings and added pdf versions of them after confirming that the 24 pin cable checks out per the specs in my latest drafts. Cap locations and values are correct, and all I've got to do now are the smaller cables.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Sorry for a stupid question, but just trying to figure this out before going ahead, I have a Seasonic X750 I have saw the pin out, but what orientation does the plastic connector have to face, I have attached a basic picture for reference. Many Thanks!


The orientation can really be what suits your needs/wants best . What you really want to pay attention to is how you number the pins. both in your front and rear views, and how that lines up with your numbering scheme. When putting that together you also want to make sure you annotate how you determined your pin order (left to right, right to left, etc.) and whether you were looking at the front side with the pins (terminals) showing when you did that, or at the back side of the terminal housing where the terminals and their attached wires are inserted into the housing.

If you look really closely at the back side of one of the larger connectors, you'll see really tiny, faint numbers. Those numbers can and should be used for identification purposes in your drawings.

Lastly, remember that the orientation of those numbers changes depending on which side of the housing you're looking at, AND whether the locking key is on top or bottom when you're viewing the housing.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Sure is, exactly.


Cool thanks.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homingmystic*
> 
> Sorry for a stupid question, but just trying to figure this out before going ahead, I have a Seasonic X750 I have saw the pin out, but what orientation does the plastic connector have to face, I have attached a basic picture for reference. Many Thanks!


If the doc you are reading is done properly, whoever did the pinout will give that reference (if connectors are to be looked from the front (prong side) or from the back (wire side)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Just an fyi that I updated the drawings and added pdf versions of them after confirming that the 24 pin cable checks out per the specs in my latest drafts. Cap locations and values are correct, and all I've got to do now are the smaller cables.


will look into this.
I understand that you are going to put back the caps ? any reasons for doing so ? (I read that EVGA high end PSU have caps on the PSU side already, and even EVGA doesn't put caps on their high end aftermarket cables)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> The orientation can really be what suits your needs/wants best . What you really want to pay attention to is how you number the pins. both in your front and rear views, and how that lines up with your numbering scheme. When putting that together you also want to make sure you annotate how you determined your pin order (left to right, right to left, etc.) and whether you were looking at the front side with the pins (terminals) showing when you did that, or at the back side of the terminal housing where the terminals and their attached wires are inserted into the housing.
> 
> If you look really closely at the back side of one of the larger connectors, you'll see really tiny, faint numbers. Those numbers can and should be used for identification purposes in your drawings.
> 
> Lastly, remember that the orientation of those numbers changes depending on which side of the housing you're looking at, AND whether the locking key is on top or bottom when you're viewing the housing.


^+1
If you plan to do your own, I would recommend to use Molex conventions, which is to have the housing retainer at the bottom. Most pin outs use this convention, however I saw as many front view as I saw rear views. Both are fine, and I would argue both are needed (it is easier to test wires from the front side, as wires don't get in the way, but equally the rear view helps to define how to insert the terminals inside the housing)


----------



## acheleg

if the power amp is rated at 1500 watts, but the fuse is only 30 amps, how many watts on the 12 v rail do i really need?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> If the doc you are reading is done properly, whoever did the pinout will give that reference (if connectors are to be looked from the front (prong side) or from the back (wire side)
> will look into this.
> I understand that you are going to put back the caps ? any reasons for doing so ? (I read that EVGA high end PSU have caps on the PSU side already, and even EVGA doesn't put caps on their high end aftermarket cables)
> ^+1
> If you plan to do your own, I would recommend to use Molex conventions, which is to have the housing retainer at the bottom. Most pin outs use this convention, however I saw as many front view as I saw rear views. Both are fine, and I would argue both are needed (it is easier to test wires from the front side, as wires don't get in the way, but equally the rear view helps to define how to insert the terminals inside the housing)


Was the last part about Molex conventions for homingmystic's benefit? The only real reason I did the drawings the way I did with the housing retainer at the bottom is because that's how they're positioned (at the bottom) when looking at the PSU and aligns with the previous drawings/images of the PSU that I hid in the spoilers in that same post to make the newer info easier to read.

As for the caps, I simply added them to be thorough. I haven't made my mind up about them yet and do have a supply of caps on hand, but I'm going to take some noise readings with an oscope before finalizing that decision. Since I've got an 24 pin cable that already is capped and one that isn't, the comparison should be relatively easy to accomplish at this point.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Now I understand why you post such large pictures.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using an NEC PA272W at my end. That said, I've added PDF attachments that you should be able to download and enlarge to your heart's content. All fonts have been outlined in the two files.


I just don't resize the photos. I just upload them directly from my iPhone to image host (I believe they upload at 4K). My screen is not even at 1440p (due to the my GPU is so old it doesn't support that screen size, It still states it's an ATi GPU not a AMD GPU). Some will have 1440p to 4K monitors on the site, the font & images will be tiny.


----------



## iamjanco

*EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 PSU Cabling Wiring Diagram and Pinouts*
Updated, added additional info and made corrections, bumped to v 0.5.


----------



## homingmystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> The orientation can really be what suits your needs/wants best . What you really want to pay attention to is how you number the pins. both in your front and rear views, and how that lines up with your numbering scheme. When putting that together you also want to make sure you annotate how you determined your pin order (left to right, right to left, etc.) and whether you were looking at the front side with the pins (terminals) showing when you did that, or at the back side of the terminal housing where the terminals and their attached wires are inserted into the housing.
> 
> If you look really closely at the back side of one of the larger connectors, you'll see really tiny, faint numbers. Those numbers can and should be used for identification purposes in your drawings.
> 
> Lastly, remember that the orientation of those numbers changes depending on which side of the housing you're looking at, AND whether the locking key is on top or bottom when you're viewing the housing.


Thanks for this, Was just unsure if the connector had to face a certain way. So aslong as I get the pinout correct for my PSU the orientation is fine? The Pinout i was looking at for the Seasonic X750 is pin down, or rear view as Elf states.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> If the doc you are reading is done properly, whoever did the pinout will give that reference (if connectors are to be looked from the front (prong side) or from the back (wire side)
> will look into this.
> I understand that you are going to put back the caps ? any reasons for doing so ? (I read that EVGA high end PSU have caps on the PSU side already, and even EVGA doesn't put caps on their high end aftermarket cables)
> ^+1
> If you plan to do your own, I would recommend to use Molex conventions, which is to have the housing retainer at the bottom. Most pin outs use this convention, however I saw as many front view as I saw rear views. Both are fine, and I would argue both are needed (it is easier to test wires from the front side, as wires don't get in the way, but equally the rear view helps to define how to insert the terminals inside the housing)


Thanks for the reply, yeah Elf's guide is rear view (wire side). I am going to make my own also for all the cables, but its nice to have a reference to check


----------



## iamjanco

*EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 info* is ready for testing purposes, both drawings have been included in PDF Version.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 info* is ready for testing purposes, both drawings have been included in PDF Version.


Nice job. Looks really professional and easy to read.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Nice job. Looks really professional and easy to read.


Thx!


----------



## Barefooter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 info* is ready for testing purposes, both drawings have been included in PDF Version.


Nice work there! Do you know if this is the same as the EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Nice work there! Do you know if this is the same as the EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2?


Thx. Couldn't say with certainty about the 1600. You might try asking on the eVGA Power Supply forum.


----------



## Revan654

This may be a bit of an odd question, is is possible to use VGA slots on a PSU for Sata or Molex power? My Sata/Molex slots are maxed out & I don't really feel like adding a second PSU.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> This may be a bit of an odd question, is is possible to use VGA slots on a PSU for Sata or Molex power? My Sata/Molex slots are maxed out & I don't really feel like adding a second PSU.


Don't think so. VGA/PCIe outputs only provide 12V. Molex (Periph) provide 12v and 5v; SATA 12V, 5V, and 3.3V.

Edited: Now if you wanted to run 12V directly to something like fans or a 12V pump (or something else powered by 12V), you could probably get away with that.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Don't think so. VGA/PCIe outputs only provide 12V. Molex (Periph) provide 12v and 5v; SATA 12V, 5V, and 3.3V.
> 
> Edited: Now if you wanted to run 12V directly to something like fans or a 12V pump (or something else powered by 12V), you could probably get away with that.


I didn't think so I had to ask, I thought maybe someone knew something I didn't know.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I didn't think so I had to ask, I thought maybe someone knew something I didn't know.


NP, there's also the sense signal you might have to watch out for when using the VGA 12V lines for other purposes. They essentially tell the pwr supply whether a six or eight pin connection is being made.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Barefooter*
> 
> Nice work there! Do you know if this is the same as the EVGA SuperNOVA 1600 T2?


All T2 use the same pinout.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> *EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2 PSU Cabling Wiring Diagram and Pinouts*
> Updated, added additional info and made corrections, bumped to v 0.5.


Any chance you can add 6-pin for VGA to the loadout?


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> All T2 use the same pinout.
> Any chance you can add 6-pin for VGA to the loadout?


Probably. I'll see if I can't do that sometime this week.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Edited 06/06/17, bumped to v0.6 (WIP):
> 
> 
> 
> Are you sure the PCI-E & EPS is correctly? or maybe I'm just reading it wrong. Shouldn't they be 1:1


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Are you sure the PCI-E & EPS is correctly? or maybe I'm just reading it wrong. Shouldn't they be 1:1


What do mean by 1:1? Being specific avoids ambiguity.

Edited: Btw, if it helps, I actually stripped the sleeving from the oem cables, as well as did a physical and an electrical check of each wire on each cable from end to end. I went that extra mile because the OEM EVGA cabling for the T2 seemed that much different from other EVGA PSUs, and even more different from those of (e.g) Corsair. It did make it easier to note the locations of the caps though.

That said, as it says in the notes, it's a still a WIP, and shouldn't be considered complete until the word "DRAFT" is removed. Even then, others should always run their own continuity and electrical tests, *especially if they're making their own cables*.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> What do mean by 1:1? Being specific avoids ambiguity.
> 
> Edited: Btw, if it helps, I actually stripped the sleeving from the oem cables, as well as did a physical and an electrical check of each wire on each cable from end to end. I went that extra mile because the OEM EVGA cabling for the T2 seemed that much different from other EVGA PSUs, and even more different from those of (e.g) Corsair. It did make it easier to note the locations of the caps though.
> 
> That said, as it says in the notes, it's a still a WIP, and shouldn't be considered complete until the word "DRAFT" is removed. Even then, others should always run their own continuity and electrical tests, *especially if they're making their own cables*.


I thought 1: 1 is clear.

Slot 1 on Connector A goes to Slot 1 on Connector B
Slot 2 on Connector A goes to Slot 2 on Connector B
etc...


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I thought 1: 1 is clear.
> 
> Slot 1 on Connector A goes to Slot 1 on Connector B
> Slot 2 on Connector A goes to Slot 2 on Connector B
> etc...


If you mean (e.g.) pin 1 on the PSU end of a PCI-E cable going to pin 1 on the VGA card end of the same cable, ***absolutely not*** in the case of the EVGA 1000 T2. I should add that by no means is there any spec, atx or otherwise, that dictates which pins should carry which voltages/signals at the PSU outputs. PSU manufacturers only need to ensure that the motherboard board ends of such cables are terminated correctly, as per the specs that do exist (and are supposed to be adhered to).

I hope you haven't been building your cables using that 1:1 approach... at least not without finding *definitive* information that says they should be that way.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> If you mean (e.g.) pin 1 on the PSU end of a PCI-E cable going to pin 1 on the VGA card end of the same cable, ***absolutely not*** in the case of the EVGA 1000 T2. I should add that by no means is there any spec, atx or otherwise, that dictates which pins should carry which voltages/signals at the PSU outputs. PSU manufacturers only need to ensure that the motherboard board ends of such cables are terminated correctly, as per the specs that do exist (and are supposed to be adhered to).
> 
> I hope you haven't been building your cables using that 1:1 approach... at least not without finding *definitive* information that says they should be that way.


I haven't fully assembled my cables yet. I just finished sleeving my cables. I can just follow the wiring on the cables I have. Which should reflect the most recent Revision of the T2 & P2 series.

I'm also using the chart that both Mod-One & Ice-Modz uses. Some cables are 1:1.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I haven't fully assembled my cables yet. I just finished sleeving my cables. I can just follow the wiring on the cables I have. Which should reflect the most recent Revision of the T2 & P2 series.


Just a helpful suggestion: when you make a statement like the one you did in your last sentence above, you might want to add something which supports such conclusions. For instance, can you provide links to why the oem cables you have should reflect the most recent "Revision" of both the T2 & P2 series?

Anything less and you risk the information you're providing being interpreted incorrectly, especially by laypeople; which, in-turn fosters confusion and the risk of damage to the equipment of others who may have followed such advice.
Quote:


> I'm also using the chart that both Mod-One & Ice-Modz uses. Some cables are 1:1.


It would be helpful if you could provide links to the charts you're referring to.

Lastly, the diagrams I've been working on are solely intended to help ensure correct wiring pinouts when building one's own cables (hence, the name of this thread), end to end. If you're referring to the sleeving color selector tools/utilities Mod-One uses & Ice-Modz used, what they don't point out is the fact that in most, if not all cases, what's not pictured by way of those tools is how wires criss-cross in such cables simply because they aren't built in a 1:1 fashion, as you mentioned. Such sleeving selector tools are meant to be as user-friendly as possible so that pretty much anyone can establish their own custom-sleeved color scheme when ordering these products.

The criss-crossing I'm referring to is typical done by custom cable sleevers at some point in the cable where it isn't readily seen; and examining the oem cables you have on hand should help explain that. As for your original question which started all of this ("or maybe I'm just reading it wrong"), I suspect that is the case.


----------



## jleslie246

Can someone please direct me to a 850 G3 pinout please, thank you.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Just a helpful suggestion: when you make a statement like the one you did in your last sentence above, you might want to add something which supports such conclusions. For instance, can you provide links to why the oem cables you have should reflect the most recent "Revision" of both the T2 & P2 series?
> 
> Anything less and you risk the information you're providing being interpreted incorrectly, especially by laypeople; which, in-turn fosters confusion and the risk of damage to the equipment of others who may have followed such advice.
> It would be helpful if you could provide links to the charts you're referring to.
> 
> Lastly, the diagrams I've been working on are solely intended to help ensure correct wiring pinouts when building one's own cables (hence, the name of this thread), end to end. If you're referring to the sleeving color selector tools/utilities Mod-One uses & Ice-Modz used, what they don't point out is the fact that in most, if not all cases, what's not pictured by way of those tools is how wires criss-cross in such cables simply because they aren't built in a 1:1 fashion, as you mentioned. Such sleeving selector tools are meant to be as user-friendly as possible so that pretty much anyone can establish their own custom-sleeved color scheme when ordering these products.
> 
> The criss-crossing I'm referring to is typical done by custom cable sleevers at some point in the cable where it isn't readily seen; and examining the oem cables you have on hand should help explain that. As for your original question which started all of this ("or maybe I'm just reading it wrong"), I suspect that is the case.


The 1:1 was based on information Ice-Modz told be awhile back for my PSU.

The chart is posted a few pages back.

I can't post link for REV OEM cables since it was from a conversation I had with EVGA Tech team.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Can someone please direct me to a 850 G3 pinout please, thank you.




This should work with the G3 series. You can also use the first page pin layout too.


----------



## iamjanco

At the *top of the very first post on the very first page of this thread*, Lutro0 stated a couple of things that rings true to this day. *It would be advisable to adhere to them regardless of what conversations you or anyone else had with whom:*
Quote:


> *It is always recommended that you make a pinout of your own, no matter what, before you begin on a sleeving job - remember to make one for all cables. Even if you see your pinout on the list please make one for yourself anyhow as nothing in this thread is iron clad and it should be a prerequisite to sleeving your power supply no matter how many times you have sleeved!
> 
> I recommend investing in a PSU Tester and personally use the Thermaltake Dr Power II as it tests the main cables on an ATX PSU including the 8 Pin PCI-E cable which many testers do not include. I'd also suggest a Multi-Meter as a quick way of testing or doubling checking an individual pinout in the case of doubt.*
> 
> _Please also note that you are using these pinouts with no guarantee from anyone on the accuracy, but if they are listed most likely they were used on the project they were for._


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> The 1:1 was based on information Ice-Modz told be awhile back for my PSU.
> 
> The chart is posted a few pages back.
> 
> I can't post link for REV OEM cables since it was from a conversation I had with EVGA Tech team.


Relying solely on anything included in this thread that is not somehow linked to verifiable reference material is not only foolhardy, but can lead to equipment damage, if not unsafe conditions for the user. The information posted in this thread should be treated merely as a guide which can be used for comparison against any data *you personally* collect using a combination of visual inspection and a multimeter.


----------



## jleslie246

Thanks, I saw that one. The G3 is different than the G2. I moved pin by pin to the one i built so it should be good. I just wanted to triple check. Just ordered a $10 tester off amazon.


----------



## ruffhi

Do I have this right? I have a Seasonic 750w Snow Silent PSU ... and I am trying to understand the CPU / PCIE slots.

So ... here is a picture of the plug end of the PSU. One of thge CPU / PCIE slots is boxed in Green. I think I have the pin numbers right (purple) but I might have 1 and 4, 5 and 8 swapped. Not that it makes a difference as my question is ... which row supplies the +12v and which is GND?



The pin out says that 1-4 are the +12v pins and that is the row furthest from the catch (ie bottom row in this pic).

However ...
if I use a volt meter with the black in the top and a red in the bottom ... it shows ... +12v.
if I use a volt meter with the black in the bottom and a red in the top ... it shows ... -12v.

I would have thought that the red in 1-4 would show +12v ... and not -12v. <-- *Edit*: I got this wrong ... red in 1-4 does show +12v .. 1-4 is bottom in my pic.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruffhi*
> 
> Do I have this right? I have a Seasonic 750w Snow Silent PSU ... and I am trying to understand the CPU / PCIE slots.
> 
> So ... here is a picture of the plug end of the PSU. One of thge CPU / PCIE slots is boxed in Green. I think I have the pin numbers right (purple) but I might have 1 and 4, 5 and 8 swapped. Not that it makes a difference as my question is ... which row supplies the +12v and which is GND?
> 
> 
> 
> The pin out says that 1-4 are the +12v pins and that is the row furthest from the catch (ie bottom row in this pic).
> 
> However ...
> if I use a volt meter with the black in the top and a red in the bottom ... it shows ... +12v.
> if I use a volt meter with the black in the bottom and a red in the top ... it shows ... -12v.
> 
> I would have thought that the red in 1-4 would show +12v ... and not -12v.


Not sure where you got that pinout which looks like something Seasonic might have ginned up, but it's somewhat confusing because of the way the drawing was laid out. As for the polarity of the voltages you're measuring, if your cables are connected to your meter correctly (red to plus, black to minus or gnd), when you connect them properly to the psu output connector, your 12VDC should read positive. (+12VDC). Reversing the leads will give that negative reading.


----------



## ruffhi

My voltmeter has hard-wired cables ... so I don't have the option of plugging them in the wrong way round. The pinout did come from seasonic ... and I agree that it is confusing re which is pin 1 and which is pin 4 ... it isn't confusing re top v bottom.

Anyway, I just walked the dog and thought of another way to determine GND v HOT in the 8-pin ... the middle pin (either top of bottom) in the 6-pin plug is GND. Put the black in there and measure the voltage from the top row (near the catch) and I get 0v ... the voltage from the bottom row (further away from the catch) gives +12v.

So the bottom row (further away from the catch) is HOT.


----------



## iamjanco

Agreed, sounds like it. The way they positioned the catch with respect to where that catch seats in their drawing baffles the mind, at least mine. When in doubt, the meter should firm things up.


----------



## ruffhi

Thx ... just made myself a power 'hub' for my LEDs, pedestal fans and pumps.


----------



## Himo5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Agreed, sounds like it. The way they positioned the catch with respect to where that catch seats in their drawing baffles the mind, at least mine. When in doubt, the meter should firm things up.


You will find that a lot of MiniFit Jnr connectors are numbered on their rear (wire entry) edges.

When you see how they are numbered the source of all the confusion becomes a little clearer.

In relation to the lug (or catch mechanism) both Male and Female connectors are numbered from opposite to the lug to adjacent to the lug, so - in a non-Chinese sort of way - it's best to view them from the rear with the lug on the bottom.

Then - even though the numbers are printed in reverse - the pins go from left to right on the Female connector and from right to left on the Male connector (so in a 6pin plug the wire in Female Pin 1 connects to the wire in Male Pin 1).

When we started drawing Pinouts here in Cables And Sleeving for some reason a lot of pinouts were drawn with the lug on the top, so we were having to read the pins from bottom to top and backwards on the most commonly used Female connectors.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himo5*
> 
> You will find that a lot of MiniFit Jnr connectors are numbered on their rear (wire entry) edges.
> 
> When you see how they are numbered the source of all the confusion becomes a little clearer.
> 
> In relation to the lug (or catch mechanism) both Male and Female connectors are numbered from opposite to the lug to adjacent to the lug, so - in a non-Chinese sort of way - it's best to view them from the rear with the lug on the bottom.
> 
> Then - even though the numbers are printed in reverse - the pins go from left to right on the Female connector and from right to left on the Male connector (so in a 6pin plug the wire in Female Pin 1 connects to the wire in Male Pin 1).
> 
> When we started drawing Pinouts here in Cables And Sleeving for some reason a lot of pinouts were drawn with the lug on the top, so we were having to read the pins from bottom to top and backwards on the most commonly used Female connectors.


Understood, I've been working on a *pinout diagram for the EVGA 1000 T2* myself, which is still a WIP.

As for the numbering on the rear of the housings, somewhere in time its usability went somewhere south, even with Molex and TE/AMP branded parts (at least those I've gotten). Though the numbering in the examples you provided are clearly legible and hard to miss, that's not the case today. I've had to examine the branded and generic versions I've gotten with an inspection loop in order to see them, and some of the generics aren't even numbered.

Upside down and backwards can be dealt with, but it certainly doesn't make things easier, nor clearer. I'm just glad the numbering isn't in hànzì. Your input certainly backs up what I've suspected, and I appreciate that.









Added: oh, and the numbering and respective mating of the male/female housing connections should make sense, but seems to often be lost in translation.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Understood, I've been working on a *pinout diagram for the EVGA 1000 T2* myself, which is still a WIP.
> 
> As for the numbering on the rear of the housings, somewhere in time its usability went somewhere south, even with Molex and TE/AMP branded parts (at least those I've gotten). Though the numbering in the examples you provided are clearly legible and hard to miss, that's not the case today. I've had to examine the branded and generic versions I've gotten with an inspection loop in order to see them, and some of the generics aren't even numbered.
> 
> Upside down and backwards can be dealt with, but it certainly doesn't make things easier, nor clearer. I'm just glad the numbering isn't in hànzì. Your input certainly backs up what I've suspected, and I appreciate that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Added: oh, and the numbering and respective mating of the male/female housing connections should make sense, but seems to often be lost in translation.


Molex or TE/AMP is not always the best option to go specially when sleeving as you can see with there Sata connectors. Sata input area on Molex Brand is much smaller compared to other brand connectors. It's close to impossible to use MDPC-X & Molex Brand Sata Connectors.



(Left to Right) HWT -> JMT -> Molex

Also I noticed MainFrameCustoms have started to stock Molex brand products recently & are getting rid of some of there Chinese crap they use to stock. Not everything is Molex brand.

Also everything ensourced.net stocks is Molex or TE/AMP brand.

I really some US store would stock JMT Connectors & terminals, instead of having to order from China or Singularity Computers. I hate having to waiting two weeks or more for orders to arrive.


----------



## iamjanco

Understood. I would imagine that it would be best to use whatever works best for sleeving, when sleeving. If you or another would like to research that, we could include (e.g.) an extra column in whatever we put together as far as usable terminals are concerned, for sleeving purposes. That way the official parts could be listed in one column, and sleeving alternatives in another.

Can't help you with the JMT suppliers, that's mostly a business decision driven by whether or not a profit margin exists. Outside of that, a supplier might consider adding such low-profit items to their inventory if it meant drawing more business to their site for the other items they offer.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Molex or TE/AMP is not always the best option to go specially when sleeving as you can see with there Sata connectors. Sata input area on Molex Brand is much smaller compared to other brand connectors. It's close to impossible to use MDPC-X & Molex Brand Sata Connectors.
> 
> 
> 
> (Left to Right) HWT -> JMT -> Molex
> 
> Also I noticed MainFrameCustoms have started to stock Molex brand products recently & are getting rid of some of there Chinese crap they use to stock. Not everything is Molex brand.
> 
> Also everything ensourced.net stocks is Molex or TE/AMP brand.
> 
> I really some US store would stock JMT Connectors & terminals, instead of having to order from China or Singularity Computers. I hate having to waiting two weeks or more for orders to arrive.


Good to know that there are differences in size. I believe I have the Molex branded SATA connectors and had to remove some material in order for the sleeve to fit.


----------



## macaria

Hello.I am French, so excuse the faults. I lost the 24 pin cable from my Seasonics 1050 snow silent power supply. Someone in the community has it drawing this wiring. I have seen wiring, but none for this specific model.
Thank you in advance for your answers.


----------



## ruffhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macaria*
> 
> Hello.I am French, so excuse the faults. I lost the 24 pin cable from my Seasonics 1050 snow silent power supply. Someone in the community has it drawing this wiring. I have seen wiring, but none for this specific model.
> Thank you in advance for your answers.


Sent you a pm.


----------



## iamjanco

Along the same lines, I believe I read somewhere that the SS 1050 G3 model had a different pinout arrangement, but I couldn't locate the specifics. That's one of the reasons why regardless of what you mostly find on the net, it's probably always best to make your own unique pinout chart when doing your own custom cables.

macaria, I'm assuming you want to build your own replacement cable, but correct me if I'm mistaken. If that's not the case, have you contacted Seasonic directly? From what I've seen, they provide pretty good customer support.

On a different note, my cheap, made you-know-where CenTech (the *P98674 Harbor Freight* Mastech Multimeter knockoff) COM jack literally fell apart on me today and there was no saving it, though I did try. That said, I've been researching handhelds for a few weeks now, digging into the reviews, videos, etc., as well as the usual pros (and cons in the form of complaints). I opted for the *Fluke 289 FVF*, simply because it fits my bill, and it should get here pretty quickly given the vendor's location (I'm in NY, they're in NJ). Next up might be a DSO or MSO (oscilloscope) depending on how the Tek 465 works out for me once I start getting into benching.


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Along the same lines, I believe I read somewhere that the SS 1050 G3 model had a different pinout arrangement, but I couldn't locate the specifics. That's one of the reasons why regardless of what you mostly find on the net, it's probably always best to make your own unique pinout chart when doing your own custom cables.
> 
> macaria, I'm assuming you want to build your own replacement cable, but correct me if I'm mistaken. If that's not the case, have you contacted Seasonic directly? From what I've seen, they provide pretty good customer support.
> 
> On a different note, my cheap, made you-know-where CenTech (the *P98674 Harbor Freight* Mastech Multimeter knockoff) COM jack literally fell apart on me today and there was no saving it, though I did try. That said, I've been researching handhelds for a few weeks now, digging into the reviews, videos, etc., as well as the usual pros (and cons in the form of complaints). I opted for the *Fluke 289 FVF*, simply because it fits my bill, and it should get here pretty quickly given the vendor's location (I'm in NY, they're in NJ). Next up might be a DSO or MSO (oscilloscope) depending on how the Tek 465 works out for me once I start getting into benching.


Nice upgrade on the multimeter. I've always liked Fluke, although I just a basic one (115 I think).
Definitely agree with doing your own pinout. Some of the pinouts are really confusing, which is the last thing you want when $100's of dollars is at stake.


----------



## iamjanco

@macaria contact *snef* via a PM. He's in Canada, and I would assume understands French. He's also very good at what he does, and has experience with the Seasonic Snow Series you have. He should be able to confirm whether the diagram created by Big Elf on the *first page of this thread* for the SeaSonic XP3 Series - Platinum 1200 is identical to the 1050 XP3 model.

That said, good luck. Again, when making your own cables, you really should have something like the OEM cable set to bump them against; but in your case, unless Seasonic helps you out or you purchase a new set of cables (or just the 24 pin cable) there's not much you can do. Me, I'd be buying a replacement cable if I didn't already have one.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Nice upgrade on the multimeter. I've always liked Fluke, although I just a basic one (115 I think).
> Definitely agree with doing your own pinout. Some of the pinouts are really confusing, which is the last thing you want when $100's of dollars is at stake.


Thanks. The 115 is also a very good, basic meter, which would suffice in most cases, especially with respect to computer builds.

Mentioned earlier somewhere, I wanting the logging functionality the 289 offers, which I'll use during benching. It's not a perfect meter (e.g., it eats batteries like candy, and like everything else nowadays it's not made to the same quality standards American steel used to be), but in comparison to the other logging handhelds out there, it got top bill from me.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Thanks. The 115 is also a very good, basic meter, which would suffice in most cases, especially with respect to computer builds.
> 
> Mentioned earlier somewhere, I wanting the logging functionality the 289 offers, which I'll use during benching. It's not a perfect meter (e.g., it eats batteries like candy, and like everything else nowadays it's not made to the same quality standards American steel used to be), but in comparison to the other logging handhelds out there, it got top bill from me.


wow, nice multimeter...
I considered Fluke, but for equal capabilities, they are like 3x the price, and for a hobbyist usage this was not "reasonnable". But they are supposedly the best you can find on the market from what I read, built to last decades.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> wow, nice multimeter...
> I considered Fluke, but for equal capabilities, they are like 3x the price, and for a hobbyist usage this was not "reasonnable". But they are supposedly the best you can find on the market from what I read, built to last decades.


I actually got a pretty good deal on the FVF package, which ended up costing less than my 1080ti. Quite a bit less as a matter of fact.

For most it would be severe overkill though, especially when you can usually do what you need to do with something like that cheap CenTech that went south on me.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Merci
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually got a pretty good deal on the FVF package, which ended up costing less than my 1080ti. Quite a bit less as a matter of fact.
> 
> For most it would be severe overkill though, especially when you can usually do what you need to do with something like that cheap CenTech that went south on me.


Heremore than anywhere else, I've learned not to judge other people's purchases








After all, I am building a 7k config, which by many people standard is absolutely insane









Truth is, you seem to be well versed in electrical engineering, which I am not at all, despite having worked on IT support for electrical engineering solutions









I ended up with a Brymen, which is way overkill too, but way cheaper.

Do post pictures, I am intrigued about the packaging and stuff (my Brymen came in a super cheap box).

More on topic, I do recommend people serious with pinouts to buy a multimeter, it is really useful (continuity testing of supplied/own cables, voltage measurement, ability to find the capacitors without tearing the supplied cables, etc...)


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Here more than anywhere else, I've learned not to judge other people's purchases
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After all, I am building a 7k config, which by many people standard is absolutely insane
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Truth is, you seem to be well versed in electrical engineering, which I am not at all, despite having worked on IT support for electrical engineering solutions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ended up with a Brymen, which is way overkill too, but way cheaper.
> 
> Do post pictures, I am intrigued about the packaging and stuff (my Brymen came in a super cheap box).
> 
> More on topic, I do recommend people serious with pinouts to buy a multimeter, it is really useful (continuity testing of supplied/own cables, voltage measurement, ability to find the capacitors without tearing the supplied cables, etc...)


Thanks for the compliment, but I wouldn't call myself an engineer; I have worked closely with them for many years though, and learned quite a bit from them. Couple that with the basics I learned in avionics, toss in some microwave rf-digital systems integration, and cellular base station and tower work for companies like Nortel and Verizon, and I know better than to lick a live outlet with a wet appendage (e.g., my tongue).

I'll post some pix of the meter when it shows up. I'd do an unboxing video, but I've been swamped for more than a week now doing database work, and have to be done with this tasking by end of next week.


----------



## snef

and i comfirm

i sleeved a lot of snow silent 1050 and 750

and the pinout on first page for xp3 1200 and X-1050 are same and compatible with the snow silent serie


----------



## Remy2

Has anyone come across a pinout for the Corsair RM850x? I saw the RM850i mentioned in here, but I haven't seen the RM850x mentioned. It looks like they may be the same (cablemod's compatibility list has C-Series RMi / RMx for both).


----------



## cr333d

http://www.overclock.net/t/1420796/repository-of-power-supply-pin-outs/560#post_24346238
Compatible with RMX


----------



## AIHD

Hi!

Can you help me with pinouts for seasonic m12II-850 bronze? I need some one only for pcie/cpu connectors!
I*am a modder, who needs to create pci-e modular cables and I*ve got any PSU, so i can*t chek pinout by multimetre((


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AIHD*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Can you help me with pinouts for seasonic m12II-850 bronze? I need some one only for pcie/cpu connectors!
> I*am a modder, who needs to create pci-e modular cables and I*ve got any PSU, so i can*t chek pinout by multimetre((


I would take a look at the first page & read the SeaSonic Notes.

As for the picture, You can use one of the PCIE slots. It's a little odd the PSU is designed this way.

Make sure you grab the right connector.


----------



## AIHD

Thanks!
So can I use this one (see atached file) for creating modular cable?

Seems that I should combine 4gnd into 5gnd and use only "3 line" 12V+ instead of "4 line", am I right?


----------



## MysteryGuy

I'm getting a new Seasonic Prime Titanium 850 (SSR-850TD) to replace a Seasonic 860 XP2 (SS-860XP2).

Does anyone know if I can use the cables (the CPU/24 Pin ATX cable in particular) from the Platinum supply with the Titanium Prime? (So I don't have to replace it).

As I understand it, the Titanium Prime has some voltage sensing wires in the 24-Pin cable, and I wasn't sure if these sense wires were also present in the Platinum XP2 cables.

Thanks;


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MysteryGuy*
> 
> I'm getting a new Seasonic Prime Titanium 850 (SSR-850TD) to replace a Seasonic 860 XP2 (SS-860XP2).
> 
> Does anyone know if I can use the cables (the CPU/24 Pin ATX cable in particular) from the Platinum supply with the Titanium Prime? (So I don't have to replace it).
> 
> As I understand it, the Titanium Prime has some voltage sensing wires in the 24-Pin cable, and I wasn't sure if these sense wires were also present in the Platinum XP2 cables.
> 
> Thanks;


I'm not familiar with SeaSonic series, For what it's worth a few companies use the same pinout for both XP2 & Prime 850.

My advise would be getting a Power Supply tester & Multi-meter. Then test the cables, Unless there been a revision to the PSU the cables should work together.

I would also E-mail SeaSonic & see if they have a diagram of the pins for both PSU. Some companies will E-mail them to you if they the PDF on file.

This is what most use for there PSU for Titanium Prime. I would compare it to the first page which has listing for Xp2.


----------



## Big Elf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MysteryGuy*
> 
> I'm getting a new Seasonic Prime Titanium 850 (SSR-850TD) to replace a Seasonic 860 XP2 (SS-860XP2).
> 
> Does anyone know if I can use the cables (the CPU/24 Pin ATX cable in particular) from the Platinum supply with the Titanium Prime? (So I don't have to replace it).
> 
> As I understand it, the Titanium Prime has some voltage sensing wires in the 24-Pin cable, and I wasn't sure if these sense wires were also present in the Platinum XP2 cables.
> 
> Thanks;


Be careful with the PCI-E connectors, as annoyingly, SeaSonic changed the orientation of the pinouts on some later versions of their PSUs and what was previously 12V became Ground and vice versa. I don't know whether that became a change in all new PSUs. If you get it wrong it has disastrous results.

At the time the 24 Pin cable pinouts remained the same.

As mentioned above a PSU tester/multimeter are worth buying and as I mentioned in the first post in this thread I recommend the Thermaltake Dr Power II tester as it used to be the only one that would test the 8 pin PCI-E cables.

I used to have a contact in SeaSonic who supplied the pinouts just prior to new models being released and I kept up to date with them until I suffered a bout of bad ill health a few years ago and pretty much lost interest in everything for a while. I've not been in touch with him for a while but if you have any problems getting hold of the pinouts let me know and I'll get in touch again.


----------



## MysteryGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Be careful with the PCI-E connectors, as annoyingly, SeaSonic changed the orientation of the pinouts on some later versions of their PSUs and what was previously 12V became Ground and vice versa. I don't know whether that became a change in all new PSUs. If you get it wrong it has disastrous results.
> 
> At the time the 24 Pin cable pinouts remained the same.
> 
> ...


Thanks.

I was hoping to be able to save some time by just reusing the existing cable set (mounted in the case). But, it sounds like I need to either just switch to the new cables, or double check the connectivity first.


----------



## MysteryGuy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MysteryGuy*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> I was hoping to be able to save some time by just reusing the existing cable set (mounted in the case). But, it sounds like I need to either just switch to the new cables, or double check the connectivity first.


For what it's worth, I replaced my Seasonic 860 XP2 (SS-860XP2) with a Seasonic Prime Titanium 850 (SSR-850TD). I ended up using the 24-Pin CPU, 2 CPU Power, and 2 PCIe cables from the Prime to play it safe. I only reused 2 SATA Power cables from the Platinum.

I did a quick visual and meter check of the PCIe and CPU cables. They had different numbers printed on the connectors.

It looked like the CPU cables were physically slightly different (one long 8 conductor cable instead of 2 4-conductor cables connecting the ends) but appeared to have the same pin-pin connections.

The PCIe cables also appeared similar for the 'Single' PCIe 6/8 pin cables, and appears to have the same connections.

The Platinum also came with a 'Dual' ended PCIe cable that has two 6/8 pin PCIe connectors. It used an extra pin (at the power supply) compared to the Single connector version. But, the Titanium Prime didn't come with an equivalent cable to compare against.

At any rate, I didn't actually try these and decided to use the ones provided with the Prime (for the CPU, 24-Pin, and PCIe connections). But, I suspect that at least the CPU and Single connector PCIe cables probably would have worked.

And, the XP2 SATA power cables seem to be working on the Prime.


----------



## Jubijub

Throwing my hat in the ring

*EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2*




I also made a PDF version for easier use.

Fun fact : I sampled all the VGA cables supplied with my PSU, and none had the same pinnout. Of course, pin 1-2-3 on the PSU side always ended up on pin 1-2-3 on the PCI-e connectors, but in no repeatable orders. And for the rest, I had a bit of everything.
This is interesting because that means that they test cable on voltage and not on pinning. (when I was working for automotive, we used to test based on precise pinning, so we knew that port 68 of connector A had to be plugged to port 12 of connector B. The tables on which the harnesses were manufactured had what we called a "counter-harness" that was plugged to the freshly built harness, and a computer was testing all pins one by one. With such a setup, those cables wouldn't pass quality tests as pin out is not constant.

I also realize that since I have only 2 periph ports on the PSU, I may have to either chain the Molex connectors, or use SATA ports instead, so I will have to come up with a more exotic cable


----------



## iamjanco

^ Very nice work! Were the pinouts similar to the 1000 T2?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Throwing my hat in the ring
> 
> *EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made a PDF version for easier use.
> 
> Fun fact : I sampled all the VGA cables supplied with my PSU, and none had the same pinnout. Of course, pin 1-2-3 on the PSU side always ended up on pin 1-2-3 on the PCI-e connectors, but in no repeatable orders. And for the rest, I had a bit of everything.
> This is interesting because that means that they test cable on voltage and not on pinning. (when I was working for automotive, we used to test based on precise pinning, so we knew that port 68 of connector A had to be plugged to port 12 of connector B. The tables on which the harnesses were manufactured had what we called a "counter-harness" that was plugged to the freshly built harness, and a computer was testing all pins one by one. With such a setup, those cables wouldn't pass quality tests as pin out is not constant.
> 
> I also realize that since I have only 2 periph ports on the PSU, I may have to either chain the Molex connectors, or use SATA ports instead, so I will have to come up with a more exotic cable


Very nice work! Were the pinouts similar to the 1000 T2?


----------



## Jubijub

I checked with yours and everything seems consistent for VGA / SATA / periph (even though you chose slightly different cable order than I did on VGA)

I haven't checked for 24pin / 8pin EPS, but I am willing to bet voltage wise it's the same, with potentially different cable ordering within a given voltage


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Throwing my hat in the ring
> 
> *EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made a PDF version for easier use.
> 
> Fun fact : I sampled all the VGA cables supplied with my PSU, and none had the same pinnout. Of course, pin 1-2-3 on the PSU side always ended up on pin 1-2-3 on the PCI-e connectors, but in no repeatable orders. And for the rest, I had a bit of everything.
> This is interesting because that means that they test cable on voltage and not on pinning. (when I was working for automotive, we used to test based on precise pinning, so we knew that port 68 of connector A had to be plugged to port 12 of connector B. The tables on which the harnesses were manufactured had what we called a "counter-harness" that was plugged to the freshly built harness, and a computer was testing all pins one by one. With such a setup, those cables wouldn't pass quality tests as pin out is not constant.
> 
> I also realize that since I have only 2 periph ports on the PSU, I may have to either chain the Molex connectors, or use SATA ports instead, so I will have to come up with a more exotic cable


Nice work, that had to take awhile to put together.

I would have take less VGA ports for more Sata/perp ports. P2 version has 6 & T2 have five.

This is what I put together the other day. I might try to redo it with MDPC-X Sleeving if I have time.



----
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> ^ Very nice work! Were the pinouts similar to the 1000 T2?


Yes & No(There are some unique cables that P2 version does not have). The main cables seem to be the same. The pinlayout does work on P2 850 & 1000 PSU. The first page pinouts do still work on T2 & P2 as well.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Nice work, that had to take awhile to put together.
> 
> I would have take less VGA ports for more Sata/perp ports. P2 version has 6 & T2 have five.


I took a while primarily because I am not an Illustrator champion. This topic helped quite a lot, that and having a decent multimeter so I could map the cables pinning, and also check straight at the PSU side. Once you know what's in and what's out, it's fairly easy to determine how the cable is done. I really wanted to invest the time to have 0 surprises at build time.

I agree, there are too many VGA ports, and not that many for Periph / SATA (I also don't really get the need to separate them, they could all be SATA, which covers the right voltages, only the cables would be different)


----------



## Revan654

24P



CPU (EPS)

----



PCie

Testing results of my PSU cables(EVGA 1600W T2). Most of pin layouts are similar to what Jubijub has posted in photos.


----------



## badkitten

Hi Revan and hi at all

i am sleeving my Titanium Prime 850 --> unfortunatly my kittens destroyed my pinout -- is it possible to use your pinout? I have searched google and i haven't found a pinout for my PSU - and Seasonic wants me to buy at cable mod.

many thanks in advance


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *badkitten*
> 
> Hi Revan and hi at all
> 
> i am sleeving my Titanium Prime 850 --> unfortunatly my kittens destroyed my pinout -- is it possible to use your pinout? I have searched google and i haven't found a pinout for my PSU - and Seasonic wants me to buy at cable mod.
> 
> many thanks in advance


No, EVGA uses different layout then other companies(Not to mention EVGA uses 18 + 10 Connectors, Which I believe only EVGA uses). I suggest using the front page. SeaSonic hasn't really updated there pin layout for awhile, So that should work. I would buy a PSU tester before plugging it into anything.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Throwing my hat in the ring
> 
> *EVGA SuperNOVA 1200 P2*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also made a PDF version for easier use.


I just noticed something in your Pin layout the Sata is incorrectly numbered, 1 slot should be on the far right not on the left. I just tested your pin layout at used my PSU tester just to make sure (It fails the test every time). If you do it the opposite way (Which is the correct way) it passes every time.

a Revision will be needed if you feel like fixing the pin layout on your guide.


----------



## iamjanco

Thanks for that, repped. I'll be double checking those pinouts when I start to actually wire, and finalizing those layouts after testing realtime. My SL 4.7GHz 7900x just showed up at the door about 30 minutes ago, and my Rampage VI Apex MB should arrive tomorrow. The only thing I'm really waiting on now are 5mm bolts for my test bench:

Extruded Aluminum


A few other quick pix (shot with a cell phone):

Fan testing before painting


LED testing


SL 4.7GHz binned 7900x


When I start my actual build log, in addition to the pix I've been adding all along, I'll start using my lighting setup with my Nikon D810. Quality of the images will improve at that point.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I just noticed something in your Pin layout the Sata is incorrectly numbered, 1 slot should be on the far right not on the left. I just tested your pin layout at used my PSU tester just to make sure (It fails the test every time). If you do it the opposite way (Which is the correct way) it passes every time.
> 
> a Revision will be needed if you feel like fixing the pin layout on your guide.


I have just rechecked, and the numbering is correct :

- with the PSU side facing font, the bottom left pin is 1 in my diagram
- with SATA connector facing rear (ie with the larger part of the connector on the left), I get connection with the leftmost pin, which is also hte leftmost. When facing front, this is the rightmost, which is also what the diagram says.

Now you could argue 1 is 5, and 5 is 1 (I never found any numbering on SATA connectors), but if you follow my diagram (pin x goes to pin y) you will make a working cable for EVGA 1200 P2 PSU.

I did work a bit on it, now with proper wire colors (using ATX standard), also reflected in the connector representations.
I need to do one for PWM / USB / Aquabus cables


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I have just rechecked, and the numbering is correct :
> 
> - with the PSU side facing font, the bottom left pin is 1 in my diagram
> - with SATA connector facing rear (ie with the larger part of the connector on the left), I get connection with the leftmost pin, which is also hte leftmost. When facing front, this is the rightmost, which is also what the diagram says.
> 
> Now you could argue 1 is 5, and 5 is 1 (I never found any numbering on SATA connectors), but if you follow my diagram (pin x goes to pin y) you will make a working cable for EVGA 1200 P2 PSU.
> 
> I did work a bit on it, now with proper wire colors (using ATX standard), also reflected in the connector representations.
> I need to do one for PWM / USB / Aquabus cables


Thanks for the update as well! I'll reconfirm and finalize just prior to building my cabling.


----------



## Jubijub




----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I have just rechecked, and the numbering is correct :
> 
> - with the PSU side facing font, the bottom left pin is 1 in my diagram
> - with SATA connector facing rear (ie with the larger part of the connector on the left), I get connection with the leftmost pin, which is also hte leftmost. When facing front, this is the rightmost, which is also what the diagram says.
> 
> Now you could argue 1 is 5, and 5 is 1 (I never found any numbering on SATA connectors), but if you follow my diagram (pin x goes to pin y) you will make a working cable for EVGA 1200 P2 PSU.
> 
> I did work a bit on it, now with proper wire colors (using ATX standard), also reflected in the connector representations.
> I need to do one for PWM / USB / Aquabus cables




There you go Numbers, As you can see one starts at the far right when it's not upside down.

The pinout for your sata fails, I tested it & it fails each time.

Aquabus is 1:1 as long as the pins are going different directions at each side. The flow cable is a whole another story.


----------



## Jubijub

Revan : I tested my pinout with a multimeter which has continuity mode. I could video it if you don't believe me, but I swear that on my PSU, the cabling works exactly as shown on my pinout
- if you take any pinout on the web, the wire closest to the L angle is the 3.3v. Then GND, then 5V, then GND, then 12V. Same on my pinout
- on my cables, only 5/6 ports are wired, and I checked again tonight, the pinning is as shown on my diagram.
YMMV with a different PSU.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> Revan : I tested my pinout with a multimeter which has continuity mode. I could video it if you don't believe me, but I swear that on my PSU, the cabling works exactly as shown on my pinout
> - if you take any pinout on the web, the wire closest to the L angle is the 3.3v. Then GND, then 5V, then GND, then 12V. Same on my pinout
> - on my cables, only 5/6 ports are wired, and I checked again tonight, the pinning is as shown on my diagram.
> YMMV with a different PSU.


I'm just telling what going on with my T2 PSU. After looking at the Photos you have the sata connector upside down. The plastic locks should be facing down, you have them facing up.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> the plastic locks should be facing down


Just curious... why?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Just curious... why?


You don't connect a sata connector to the harddrive upside down. You connect it with the plastic locks facing down. You also don't crimp the terminals upside down.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> You don't connect a sata connector to the harddrive upside down. You connect it with the plastic locks facing down. You also don't crimp the terminals upside down.


That I understand. But the pinout diagrams being created are strictly for reference purposes, not as how-to's lined up with your physical hardware. I suspect Jubijub realizes that as well.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> That I understand. But the pinout diagrams being created are strictly for reference purposes, not as how-to's lined up with your physical hardware. I suspect Jubijub realizes that as well.


Still the reference should still following numbers on the actual connector & in the correct orientation.


----------



## iamjanco

^ Let's just that I agree to disagree with you and leave it at that for now. Again, once I firm up my pinout diagram I'll label it final. Until then it's still a WIP.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> I'm just telling what going on with my T2 PSU. After looking at the Photos you have the sata connector upside down. The plastic locks should be facing down, you have them facing up.


I put all the connectors with the lock facing up, so irrespective of which connector I am reading, I know I should always look at it with lock facing up

For your T2 PSU : what is the wiring of the PSU side connector ? Your SATA side is bound to be the same, this is standard









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> That I understand. But the pinout diagrams being created are strictly for reference purposes, not as how-to's lined up with your physical hardware. I suspect Jubijub realizes that as well.


Exactly. The goal of the pinout for me is to serve as a wiring manual : if I create as many wires as the diagram says, and insert them in the source / destination connector as the diagram says, I will have valid cables.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Still the reference should still following numbers on the actual connector & in the correct orientation.


My connectors don't have any numbering (neither the PSU stock ones nor the Molex nor the ones where you insert the wires directly).
I am happy to renumber, but so will check first if Molex has numbering on their diagrams


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> I put all the connectors with the lock facing up, so irrespective of which connector I am reading, I know I should always look at it with lock facing up
> 
> For your T2 PSU : what is the wiring of the PSU side connector ? Your SATA side is bound to be the same, this is standard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Exactly. The goal of the pinout for me is to serve as a wiring manual : if I create as many wires as the diagram says, and insert them in the source / destination connector as the diagram says, I will have valid cables.
> My connectors don't have any numbering (neither the PSU stock ones nor the Molex nor the ones where you insert the wires directly).
> I am happy to renumber, but so will check first if Molex has numbering on their diagrams


One thing good about Molex, They don't watermark it to the high heaven unlike certain companies. Some connectors even has top printed on the connector(Don't have any photos of those).

One small side note, With talking about Molex, the 5557 Mini Fit Jr. Black series is being phased out. If you want Molex true black connectors I would grab stock from mouser or where ever you buy your molex parts from before stock dries up. Since the 46992 series will be the only series you can get in "Black" from molex and those connectors are more blueish/black then true black.


----------



## msd0

Jubijub, good job on your pinout. Very straightforward and easy to understand as well. The pinout for the SATA power looks fine since the key on the connector is clearly shown.


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Jubijub, good job on your pinout. Very straightforward and easy to understand as well. The pinout for the SATA power looks fine since the key on the connector is clearly shown.


Thanks msd0 !


----------



## Revan654

Molex Drawing Showing Top & Bottom & Everything properly labeled from One to Five for Sata.

Link: http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/887577810_sd.pdf


----------



## msd0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> Molex Drawing Showing Top & Bottom & Everything properly labeled from One to Five for Sata.
> 
> Link: http://www.molex.com/pdm_docs/sd/887577810_sd.pdf


Isn't that the same as jubijub's pinout (pin 1 at "L" key feature)?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msd0*
> 
> Isn't that the same as jubijub's pinout (pin 1 at "L" key feature)?


Yes & No. Pins should be the same(I haven't compared the two). However the connector was upside down on his pin layout.


----------



## Revan654

Quick Question: I was wonder if I could connect molex devices that only use two pins into one of the GPU slots I have. It seems all voltage match correctly. Unless there another issue, Would this work without destroying any hardware?

Molex Slot 1: 12V DC
Molex Slot 2: Ground

GPU Slot 6 through 8: 12V DC
GPU Slot 1 through 5: Ground


----------



## Big Elf

Yes, I do that as it's handy to spread the load for peripherals rather than have a number of them on a single connection. I've got 4 pumps connected that way using single connections for each one on my main system.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> Yes, I do that as it's handy to spread the load for peripherals rather than have a number of them on a single connection. I've got 4 pumps connected that way using single connections for each one on my main system.


What slots on the connector are you using? I only have two pumps. I would only need to use two connectors. Not sure if it would be a good idea to connect both to the same connector.


----------



## Big Elf

It's a SeaSonic 1000 Platinum and I'm using one of the 12 pin PCI-E/EPS Connectors so just 12V and Ground.


----------



## iamjanco

Please note that I have updated the *pinout diagram for the EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2* that I have been working on. It's still a WIP, but I did add the SATA Power Connector to page 1, and bumped the rev to 0.7.

Test deck is nearing completion (I'll be using it to proof my pinout diagram). It was sized to accommodate most current form factors through HPTX, and can accommodate larger boards (e.g., WTX, SWTX, etc.) with some minor reconfiguration:


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Big Elf*
> 
> It's a SeaSonic 1000 Platinum and I'm using one of the 12 pin PCI-E/EPS Connectors so just 12V and Ground.


Ok, I was just curious which slot on the connector you were using.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Please note that I have updated the *pinout diagram for the EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 T2* that I have been working on. It's still a WIP, but I did add the SATA Power Connector to page 1, and bumped the rev to 0.7.


you need more space. I think that can be said for most people. I have a decent sized room & I still need more room. I just have to many boxes with items inside them & never put the things away I don't need anymore.


----------



## Rdoxey

Hey Everyone

Does anyone know if the pin out is the same for most bequiet psu cause I am thinking about doing some custom cables and want to know if any one knows if its the same for the sfx series link below

http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/789

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rdoxey*
> 
> Hey Everyone
> 
> Does anyone know if the pin out is the same for most bequiet psu cause I am thinking about doing some custom cables and want to know if any one knows if its the same for the sfx series link below
> 
> http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/789
> 
> Any feedback would be greatly appreciated


If you have PSU already, Compare the cables to what is posted.


----------



## bolo1800

Hello guys,

Does anyone have the HX1000i pinout? Or maybe can you direct me to which one of the pinouts that was already displayed is the correct one?

Thanks


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> Does anyone have the HX1000i pinout? Or maybe can you direct me to which one of the pinouts that was already displayed is the correct one?
> 
> Thanks


It might be a good idea to build your own using a multimeter. I would take look at the default cables & build it using that cable as a reference. PSU makers do update there pin layouts from time to time.

CableMod still uses the old version(Nothing wrong using the old version), Where most recent post for EVGA T2 uses the most recent version of the pin layout.

This is what I found & it covers your PSU. Most HX have the same layout & should work. I would buy a power Supply tester & test your cables before plugging them in. One bad wiring & it can destroy all your hardware.

One Small bit information. Some Corsair Pin layouts will only work for US version(So far I know that applies to Type 4, Not sure if Type 3 is effected or not). UK & other regions will not work due to different voltage. Most of the pin layouts posted are based off the US version.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rdoxey*
> 
> Hey Everyone
> 
> Does anyone know if the pin out is the same for most bequiet psu cause I am thinking about doing some custom cables and want to know if any one knows if its the same for the sfx series link below
> 
> http://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/789
> 
> Any feedback would be greatly appreciated


This is the only pin layout I have for BeQuiet. BeQuiet is not a popular PSU brand compared to Corsair & EVGA. I have no idea if the layout is the same for all there PSU or not. It may be a bit harder to find a proper pin layout for there PSU. I have no idea if this will work with your PSU or not. It's worth trying. I would get a PSU tester & maker sure everything is ok before plugging the cables in.

I would also use your default cables as a reference.


----------



## Thischimp

I saw this online while trying to find ways to make an 8pin to 8pin pcie cables for a EVGA 1000w g2. I'm a little confused now because I'm sure I read somewhere in this thread that you need to splice a ground cable at the GPU end? Also in the pictures linked to it it shows that on the PSU end there are 4 12v (Yellow) and 4 black (ground) sockets so where does the 4th 12v go at the GPU end?

If anyone has done one already and wouldn't mind showing me what way they connected it and how they did because I can't get my head around the one linked, Plus it only shows connections for one end :/....

Thanks


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thischimp*
> 
> 
> 
> I saw this online while trying to find ways to make an 8pin to 8pin pcie cables for a EVGA 1000w g2. I'm a little confused now because I'm sure I read somewhere in this thread that you need to splice a ground cable at the GPU end? Also in the pictures linked to it it shows that on the PSU end there are 4 12v (Yellow) and 4 black (ground) sockets so where does the 4th 12v go at the GPU end?
> 
> If anyone has done one already and wouldn't mind showing me what way they connected it and how they did because I can't get my head around the one linked, Plus it only shows connections for one end :/....
> 
> Thanks


That Photo is useless, It doesn't show any of wire properties.

There is no 4th 12V on a pcie, Only a EPS has a 4th 12V. There is 3 12V and the rest is GND. EVGA doesn't use double wires on there GPU's. Double wires only comes into play if you want to have two connectors at the GPU end(Which is very hard to sleeve & get inside the connector).

This is my own Pin layout for my GPU cables based off my default cables(From T2 series).

I have no idea if this will work for G2 series or not. Every series usually has it's own pin layout. Make sure you test your cable before plugging it in with a PSU tester(I suggest using Dr. Power II).

GPU -> PSU
1 (12V) -> 3
2 (12V) -> 2
3 (12V) -> 1
4 (GND) -> 4
5 (GND) -> 8
6 (GND) -> 7
7 (GND) -> 6
8 (GND) -> 5

Here is a proper Pin layout for the G2 series:


----------



## Thischimp

thought as much haha, just wanted to double check that's all.

That photo makes alot more sense now, I did get a PSU tester with my power supply so I'm feeling confident enough to have a crack at it.

Appreciate the help and advise!


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Thischimp*
> 
> thought as much haha, just wanted to double check that's all.
> 
> That photo makes alot more sense now, I did get a PSU tester with my power supply so I'm feeling confident enough to have a crack at it.
> 
> Appreciate the help and advise!


as long as it's properly test you should be good. Some PSU now of days have fail safes, I know with my PSU if the voltage becomes unstable it auto shuts-offs & starts a cool down period).

Usually you only get a PSU jumper when you buy a PSU. Most PSU testers do not have 8-pin slot for GPU, just a warning. I've only seen Dr. Power II to have 8-pin slot.


----------



## bolo1800

Hey guys, Did anyone by any chance find a place that has Antec's new 16-pin connectors?

And is there a guide that shows how to make a psu pinout?


----------



## bolo1800

OK connector problem is solved







gonna take 8 pin connectors and shave the corners off the square keys.
Just need a good PSU pinout guide. I can see the color coding on both ends. only question is is it important where I take the double wires from or not. So for instance, If I take a 5v to pair up with another 5v from a different place on the PSU side to the same place on the MOBO side.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> Hey guys, Did anyone by any chance find a place that has Antec's new 16-pin connectors?
> 
> And is there a guide that shows how to make a psu pinout?


Link: https://mod-one.com/16-pin-atx-female-connector-black/
Link: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0469921610_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
Link: https://www.singularitycomputers.com/shop/custom-wiring/16-pin-psu-jmt/

No, Antec's is not list among all the PSU listed. I'm guessing it's not a popular PSU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> OK connector problem is solved
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gonna take 8 pin connectors and shave the corners off the square keys.
> Just need a good PSU pinout guide. I can see the color coding on both ends. only question is is it important where I take the double wires from or not. So for instance, If I take a 5v to pair up with another 5v from a different place on the PSU side to the same place on the MOBO side.


5v is 5v. You need to check to see if it has any other properties attached to it(Standby, Power OK, Power On, etc...) .


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> No, Antec's is not list among all the PSU listed. I'm guessing it's not a popular PSU.


That damn thing is popular here they started using a 16 pin propriety connector which no one has...but shaving the edges off the square keys work so NP there.
Quote:


> 5v is 5v. You need to check to see if it has any other properties attached to it(Standby, Power OK, Power On, etc...) .


How do I find out if there is anything attached to it? Any way of knowing?


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revan654*
> 
> 5v is 5v. You need to check to see if it has any other properties attached to it(Standby, Power OK, Power On, etc...) .


Oh you mean at the MOBO side?


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> Oh you mean at the MOBO side?


Everything Is based off the PSU side. After all 5V comes from the PSU not the Motherboard.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> That damn thing is popular here they started using a 16 pin propriety connector which no one has...but shaving the edges off the square keys work so NP there.
> How do I find out if there is anything attached to it? Any way of knowing?


Not sure they are since not even CableMod supports Antec. a Company who makes mass Produces PSU cables for almost every brand out there.

I just gave you three links with the connectors. Molex you can find everywhere (may be a bit more money then normal connectors, You are paying for best connectors available).

It Should be the 8, 9 & 16 slots/Wires that have special properties(I'm basing it off EVGA Pin layout). Remember 5V needs to go to both slots that require 5V. Don't bo putting it in a GND, 12V or one of the unused slots that produce zero power. Slot 16 is the same across all PSU, It the wire you splice if your going to use two PSU's. 8 & 9 should be the same, However not 100% sure off the top of my head. Since I haven't done PSU cables for other brands for awhile. I would have to look at Data layout.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> Hey guys, Did anyone by any chance find a place that has Antec's new 16-pin connectors?
> 
> And is there a guide that shows how to make a psu pinout?


Which model Antec PSU? I'm surprised that question hasn't been asked yet.

As for a guide on how to make a psu pinout, I don't think one actually exists per se. Much of that info can be gleaned from the posts in this thread though, if carefully reviewed.


----------



## bolo1800

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Which model Antec PSU? I'm surprised that question hasn't been asked yet.
> 
> As for a guide on how to make a psu pinout, I don't think one actually exists per se. Much of that info can be gleaned from the posts in this thread though, if carefully reviewed.


It's HCP Platinum 850.
And this is the little devil I can't find


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bolo1800*
> 
> It's HCP Platinum 850.
> And this is the little devil I can't find


It's not been verified as far as I can tell, but there is a *pinout diagram for the HCP 850 here*.

As for the 16 pin connector you referred to, since that's a provision to use two 8 pin peripheral power connectors side by side (ref. PC Perspective's *Antec High Current Pro Platinum 850W Power Supply Review*), you might try looking through Molex's site to see if you can come up with something that matches, similar to a *Mini-Fit Jr. receptacle housing*. It's a pretty old power supply by today's standards (still viable though), and it could be that few have had custom cables made for it for them (or made by them). Otherwise, if you have a set of the older cables on hand that came with the psu, you might try removing the pins from those connector housings and reusing them, if possible. You'll need to use compatible terminal pins as well.


----------



## Revan654

Have Looked at any of links I posted for the connector?

Here are some more.

16 Pin Dual Row Connector can be found here: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0469921610_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml
HWT Version (Less Expensive & lower quality version) : https://mod-one.com/cable-sleeving-supplies/connectors/new-category-1/
Single Row 5 Pin Connector(HWT Version): https://mainframecustom.com/shop/cable-sleeving/5pin-single-row-female-connector/
Single Row 5 Pin Connector (Molex Version): http://www.molex.com/molex/products/datasheet.jsp?part=active/0469940512_CRIMP_HOUSINGS.xml

Right now this is the only Shop I have found that does any kind of Sleeving for Antec PSU

Link: https://beyondcustoms.net/collections/custom-modular-cables/products/copy-of-custom-modular-cables-seasonic

You might want to ask if they willing to give you the pin layout or E-Mail Antec directly. It does look like Antec no longer supports that PSU.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jarn*
> 
> Hello all,
> Here is my pinout for the seasonic M12ii 750W Evo (http://seasonic.com/product/m12ii-750-evo/)


The 520W version uses the same pinout? Anyone knows?!


----------



## cr333d

yes same pinout


----------



## Duality92

Can someone confirm to me that this is what the prime series uses? Specifically the 650 and 1000 titanium.

I want to make a jumper between power supplies for dual PSU, basically it'd be a small 10pin extension with bridging to the other PSU with ps_on and a ground.

http://cdn.overclock.net/0/05/500x1000px-LL-052aa8a7_SeaSonicXP31200.jpeg


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> Can someone confirm to me that this is what the prime series uses? Specifically the 650 and 1000 titanium.
> 
> I want to make a jumper between power supplies for dual PSU, basically it'd be a small 10pin extension with bridging to the other PSU with ps_on and a ground.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/0/05/500x1000px-LL-052aa8a7_SeaSonicXP31200.jpeg


Exactly the same thing I've been thinking about doing, using their new Prime Ultras. The following is straight out of their *user guide for the Prime Ultra Titanium Series*:


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> Exactly the same thing I've been thinking about doing, using their new Prime Ultras. The following is straight out of their *user guide for the Prime Ultra Titanium Series*:


But that picture of connector end, not PSU side. I need PSU side.

That diagram is true for all power supplies.


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> But that picture of connector end, not PSU side. I need PSU side.
> 
> That diagram is true for all power supplies.


Yeah, you're right, sorry about that (multitasking at my end). They're relatively new models, but I'll keep my eyes open for any additional info that might be available.

@Duality92 Edited: so I just ordered two 850 Prime Ultra Titaniums. I'll be ohming out the stock cables on one of them after they arrive to figure out the pinouts, then sending what I come up with to Seasonic for confirmation. At that point, I'll probably also ask if the pinouts on the PSU series are the same across all the models (at least the Titaniums). I do know that there are no caps to deal with, as they've been done away with by Seasonic by moving the filtering associated with them inside the Ultra PSUs themselves.


----------



## freeq1g

Superflower Leadex Titanium 750W: 24-pin and EPS12V pinouts:


----------



## Rollo42

Now i got my BitFenix Whisper M 650Watt.
The ATX24 cable is very bad(flat cables and a BIG "it" with capacitors inside)
But the good is the pinouts are compatible with corsair type 4 (ATX24 cable to 18/10pin - PCIe and EPS/CPU same pinout)
With other words the BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 PSU Cable Kit CSR Series fits the Whisper M series as well.

I have checked twice, and successfully connected the ATX24<->18/10 cable from my corsair SF450 on the Bitenix Whisper M PSU.
After that i connected a CableMod (CM-CSR-BKIT-KKG-R for RMx/RMi series) i have laying arround on the Bitfenix Whisper M PSU with no issues too.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rollo42*
> 
> Now i got my BitFenix Whisper M 650Watt.
> The ATX24 cable is very bad(flat cables and a BIG "it" with capacitors inside)
> But the good is the pinouts are compatible with corsair type 4 (ATX24 cable to 18/10pin - PCIe and EPS/CPU same pinout)
> With other words the BitFenix Alchemy 2.0 PSU Cable Kit CSR Series fits the Whisper M series as well.


I would double check the voltage before plugging anything into the motherboard. Just because they look the same it doesn't mean they use the same wiring.


----------



## Rollo42

thanks, but saw this at BitFenix site.


----------



## Revan654

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rollo42*
> 
> 
> 
> thanks, but saw this at BitFenix site.


I would still be careful, It's always a good idea to check 3rd party cables.


----------



## aRkangeLPT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cr333d*
> 
> yes same pinout


No it doesn't.

I made my this one myself, in a better way too!


----------



## Propagandalf1

Hey guys,

does the EVGA 1000w QG Gold share the same pin out for the PCIE, CPU and Sata connectors with the EVGA 1000w G2 or similar EVGA PSU's?
24 pin isn't necessary cause it is semi modular.

thank you


----------



## Alperen62002

Hi Can someone please help me with silverstone st80f-ti psu. And give me the 24p atx pinouts MB side and psu side with these 4pin sense connector. I would appreciate it very much


----------



## DrunknMaster

Hey guys, first let me say thank you for making these wonderful and helpful threads. They have helped me in so many ways in building my first custom sleeved and cooled PC. My first ever build like this and having pinouts is priceless when your terminating and sleeving everything yourself.

I need some advice.

I have a Cooler Master 1200W Silent Pro Gold that I bought back in 2011 and it's finally giving out on me. It doesn't supply enough power when the SLI GPU's draw power and shuts everything off. I bought a new PSU, EVGA Supernova 1000 G3 and am in the process of replacing it. Problem is that the Cooler Master is a semi-modular psu so I have to put new connectors on my 24 pin, EPS and PCI cables.

I have the color coding for the 24 pin and luckily Cooler Master used colored wires so it'll be pretty easy to terminate the connector. However, I have two wires that I am curious about.

1. There is a brown wire and no brown wire in the color coding. I opened up the CM to see where it's going and it's labeled +3.3VS
Can you guys tell me what number pin that would go on?

2. There is a little red wire and I thought it tied together with another wire but I can't tell which one. I looked on the pcb of the CM but it's not labeled.

3. There is a black and grey wire twisted together but not on the psu side. I think they are tied together but I wanted to make sure.

Thanks for any help you guys can provide. Been without my rig for a couple months now troubleshooting it and I don't want to make any mistakes like frying something.

FYI - Troubleshooting rigid tube cooled pc is a pain in the ass. I figured it out but damn, you definitely can't go about it like you would a normal build. lol.

Update: I figured it out. I guess it was late I was feeling nervous about it and overlooked the obvious. I traced out the terminated end to see what the little wires were attached to and that did the trick. I blushed when I remembered what to do. lol


----------



## UncommonNL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjanco*
> 
> @Duality92 Edited: so I just ordered two 850 Prime Ultra Titaniums. I'll be ohming out the stock cables on one of them after they arrive to figure out the pinouts, then sending what I come up with to Seasonic for confirmation. At that point, I'll probably also ask if the pinouts on the PSU series are the same across all the models (at least the Titaniums). I do know that there are no caps to deal with, as they've been done away with by Seasonic by moving the filtering associated with them inside the Ultra PSUs themselves.


Just bought the 850 W prima ultra titanium myself, and wanted to do some custom cables, did you manage to determine the pin-outs on it yet ? would save me some multimeter hassle ;P


----------



## iamjanco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UncommonNL*
> 
> Just bought the 850 W prima ultra titanium myself, and wanted to do some custom cables, did you manage to determine the pin-outs on it yet ? would save me some multimeter hassle ;P


Sorry, not there yet, as I'm still running my system on a test bench using an EVGA 1000 T2.


----------



## chacal231077

Seasonic SWITCHING POWER SUPPLY & WIRING HARNESS Seasonic M12II 520 evo ect...

Seasonic620GM.pdf 177k .pdf file


Seasonic620GM2.pdf 221k .pdf file
 Update

Thank you for being able to make a diagram of concordance with the connection in frontage of the power supply


----------



## Aenra

@Jubijub Appreciate the 1200 P2 layout! And with a .pdf to boot! Much obliged, gave some rep 

[ever since i 'discovered' the in-thread searching, i feel like a king, lol, it's all right there for me ^^]


----------



## Modpcru

Hello! Please help me! I need pinout for peripherials of the Gigabyte G750H. I'm searching everywhere,,,


----------



## Thing0nASpring

Does anyone know the difference between the Corsair RM750 and the RM750X. Am i ok to use the pinout for the 750?


----------



## Modpcru

Yes, they are the same. But 750x have extra pins (total 18+10 instead of 14+10) for voltage regulation


----------



## Thing0nASpring

Brilliant, thank you!


----------



## Thing0nASpring

Do you know where i could find an accurate ATX pinout, as of course the 750 has 4 less pins.


----------



## Game0Pat

Hey guys,

I think I made a mistake noting the pinout of my Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650W.








Can I use the pinout from the older ones or may they have changed something with the Focus models?
Another one: Did Seasonic switch the 12v and grnd lanes on the 8-pins?
I sleeved that one today and I am pretty sure I did nothing wrong when noting the pinout... xD

edit: I also noticed, that espacially the 8-pin cables are wired bit strange. The 12v lanes are crossing each other so for example instead of

1-1
2-2
3-3
4-4

it is something like

1-2
2-3
3-1
4-4

Is this important or can I go the "better" way as these are only 12v lanes?

This is btw. my sleeving work for the 24-pin cable ... some nice plait-wiring ^^


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aenra*
> 
> @Jubijub Appreciate the 1200 P2 layout! And with a .pdf to boot! Much obliged, gave some rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [ever since i 'discovered' the in-thread searching, i feel like a king, lol, it's all right there for me ^^]


You're very welcome, glad someone could use it

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Game0Pat*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I think I made a mistake noting the pinout of my Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650W.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I use the pinout from the older ones or may they have changed something with the Focus models?
> Another one: Did Seasonic switch the 12v and grnd lanes on the 8-pins?
> I sleeved that one today and I am pretty sure I did nothing wrong when noting the pinout... xD
> 
> edit: I also noticed, that espacially the 8-pin cables are wired bit strange. The 12v lanes are crossing each other so for example instead of
> 
> 1-1
> 2-2
> 3-3
> 4-4
> 
> it is something like
> 
> 1-2
> 2-3
> 3-1
> 4-4
> 
> Is this important or can I go the "better" way as these are only 12v lanes?
> 
> This is btw. my sleeving work for the 24-pin cable ... some nice plait-wiring ^^


Not sure which cable you were testing in particular, but sometimes pinning can vary within the same cable type. For instance, on my EVGA 1200, none of the VGA 8+6 cables are wired the same way.
Of course on the card side the values are always the same, but which port on the card side is connected to which port on the PSU side is different on all cables for this PSU.

Bottom line : as long as :
- the component side values are consistent, and confirm to standards
- each PSU port always provide the same value (12v, 5v, GND, etc...)
You don't need to worry.
Eg : if port 3 and 6 on the component side need to provide 12v, and if 12v is provided by ports 1,2,3 on the PSU side, it doesn't matter much if COMP#3 takes its 12v from PSU#1, or PSU#2, or PSU#3


----------



## drohm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Game0Pat*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I think I made a mistake noting the pinout of my Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 650W.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can I use the pinout from the older ones or may they have changed something with the Focus models?
> Another one: Did Seasonic switch the 12v and grnd lanes on the 8-pins?
> I sleeved that one today and I am pretty sure I did nothing wrong when noting the pinout... xD
> 
> edit: I also noticed, that espacially the 8-pin cables are wired bit strange. The 12v lanes are crossing each other so for example instead of
> 
> 1-1
> 2-2
> 3-3
> 4-4
> 
> it is something like
> 
> 1-2
> 2-3
> 3-1
> 4-4
> 
> Is this important or can I go the "better" way as these are only 12v lanes?
> 
> This is btw. my sleeving work for the 24-pin cable ... some nice plait-wiring ^^


Did you purchase better looking (more neutral) caps to apply to your cables? I was thinking of doing that so I'm curious to know if you did. Cables look great btw!


----------



## Hotwil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aRkangeLPT*
> 
> No it doesn't.
> 
> I made my this one myself, in a better way too!


Hi, i've just made some custom sleeving on my 520W evo, and i don't understand why but i don't have the same "pairs" on the psu-side.

On another post in this thread, Jarn speaks about the wiring of the 750W, here it is :



He says that it would be the same for the 520W, but none of the 750w or the one that you show just above matches with mine, which is :



Can someone explain me if it's normal ? I didn't change anything on this psu-side while i was sleeving the wire, it's as i bought it.
I've already sent an email to seasonic and they told me that all EVO cables are the same...

Thanks for your answers !


----------



## msd0

If you made your own pinout, you should follow that. I would test the cables with a cable tester or multimeter before using if you think you made a mistake.


----------



## Modpcru

Seasonic Focus Plus Platinum 550W




There some modification on the side of the PSU for clear ATX 24 half cable sleeve:


----------



## Hotwil

Well, the problem for me is that i can't find any pinout layout for my 520w m12ii evo...

My cable on the PSU side haven't been removed, i've drawn the layout on my thread above and i don't thing any layout that match mine on the psu side :/
My girlfriend has the 620w version, so mostly the same i guess... (and that's waht seasonic told me) but no at all too !

It's like for those seasonic evo, each models have its self wiring layout, and i can't figure out to find the one for the 520w for the motherboard side, which obviously mean that i can't reconnect the my wires.

Modpcru, thanks for your reply but once again, your layout doesn't match mine on the psu side, i guess that it means that it won't work for the mother board side in my case.
(Moreover, your sample is for Seasonic Focus Plus Platinum 550W, not for the seasonic m12ii 520w evo)

While searching an answer on internet, i found something that might explain why all pinout on the psu-side from seasonic evo's PSU are not necessary the same but all could match... It would be because the ordre of the wiring is not really usefull, what's really important is that each voltage goes to the right point to the motherboard, so each 3.3v to the correct place but that's all. That might explain why double-wire in the same slot on the the motherboard have not necessary the same input on the psu-side, while it keeps the correct voltage... ?
Can someone tell me if i'm wrong or not ?


----------



## rrmitko

Hi all ,
Can I get pinout for Seasonic XP-1050 platinum Model : SS-1050XP Active PFC F3. Thanks


----------



## Jubijub

to @hotwil and @rrmitko

You can do it yourselves. I am not being mean here, but I doubt both your posts will get answers because :
- nobody will do a pinout for you : it takes some time
- even if they did, you would have the risk that if you don't have the same revision / model as the person who did the pinout, you may have disastrous results (cf the warning at the begining of this thread :
Quote:


> It is always recommended that you make a pinout of your own, no matter what, before you begin on a sleeving job - remember to make one for all cables. Even if you see your pinout on the list please make one for yourself anyhow as nothing in this thread is iron clad and it should be a prerequisite to sleeving your power supply no matter how many times you have sleeved!


Doing a pinout isn't hard, all you need is a multimeter, even a cheap one will do.

What voltage you will find on the component side of each cable is a given, because it is standard : the trick is to find what each pin on the PSU side gives in terms of voltage value, and also which pin of the PSU is plugged to which pin on the component side

*Finding which PSU pin is wired to which component pin*
All you need is your cables, and using that multimeter, on Continuous Volt mode or in continuity mode
- for each of the 24 mobo, 8pin EPS, 4pin EPS, 8pin VGA, 6pin VGA, Molex, SATA cable, take the cable
- put both connectors facing the same way (convention is usually to have the connector holder facing up). A helping hand, or anything holding the wires together helps a lot
- using your mutlimeter on Continuous volt, or even better, on Continuity testing :
- put one multimeter plug on the 1st pin of one connector (say you always put PSU side on the left, take the top left pin of the PSU side connector)
- using the other multimeter plug, test all the right connect pins until you find continuity
- in voltage mode the value is either nothing (no continuity), or a small reading (you have found 2 connected pins)
- in continuity mode, if you have no bips there is no continuity, if it beeps (or shows a visual signal on the multimeter screen), you have continuity
- note down the result (eg : PSU#1 goes to COMP#4)
- continue until you have tested all the pins
- redo the test the other way around : put the first plug on the right connector, and check which of the left connector pin matches. This will help you confirm results, and also detect capacitors (which have a polarity, so depending which multimeter plug you use, you may not spot them at first)

*Troubleshooting*
- sometimes you will find that one pin has continuity with more than one other pin : there can be 2 reasons for that :
- the there is a splice somewhere. This is for instance the case for Seasonic / Corsair PSUs where the 24pin mobo connector is connected to 2 connectors in the PSU side (a 10 and a 18pin). As a consequence, some wires on the component side are connected to 2 wires on the PSU side
- there is a capacitor : to differenciate a splice and a capacitor, simply reverse polarity (swap your multimeter plugs) : if you only get continuity in one direction, you have found a capacitor. If you get continuity regardless of which polarity you use, you have found a splice
- I tested multiple cables for similar purpose (eg : several VGA 8 cables), and I find a different pinout : it's possible. Since in the end what matters is what voltage is found on each pin of the component side, it doesn't really matter from which PSU pin a given voltage is procured.
For instance : if PSU pins 1, 2, 3 and 4 all provide +12V, and component side requires that pin 1 provides +12V, it doesn't really matter is the component pin#1 is connected to PSU pin #1, #2, #3 or #4 as they all provide the same voltage.

*Finding which PSU pin provides which voltage*
Using that multimeter, on Continuous Volt mode.
- first put some load on your PSU (plugging a couple of fans does the trick for any good PSU), plug the 24pin cable, and short circuit pin 16 and any GND (like pin 15 or 17)
- take each PSU socket
- the goal is to find the ground : put the multimeter red plug in the top left pin, and test the other pins in order with the black plug
- voltage is a difference of potential, so it's the difference between the red reading, and the black reading
- we know that the possible "difference" values are : 12V, 5V, 3.3V, -3.3V and -5.0V, but you can also get other differences
- if you get 12V : congrats, your black plug is on GND, and your red plug is on 12V (note this down). For subsequent measures, you can keep your black plug on that GND pin
- if you get 5V : congrats, your black plug is on GND, and your red plug is on +5V
- if you get +3.3V : congrats, you found +3.3V (red) and GND (black)
- same for -3.3V and -5V (you see why)
- if you get 7V : most likely, your red plug is on 12V, and your black plug is on 5V : tentatively mark those pins with those values, and restest once you have found a proper GND plug
- if you get 8.7V (same as above, you found 12V and 3.3V)
- if you get 0 : this means you have found 2 pins with the same potential, but that tells you nothing about which potential that is (it could be both 12V, both 5V, both GND, etc...)
- if you are testing the 24pin, check for specific values (eg : PSU on, Standby and Power on are all three +5V signals. Here you will have to rely on the standard 24pin pinout to determin if you found simple 5V
- once you have located a good GND (ie a pin that if you put your black multimeter plug on, all the readings you get are legit values), restest all the pins
*note* :
- for a given socket on a PSU, you can have several pins delivering the same values, so it is OK to find several GND, several 12V, etc...
- to test the 24pin sockets while the cable is plugged, you can simply insert your multimeter plugs from the back of the cable connector. As long as the multimeter plug touches the pin terminal, you are good.


----------



## rrmitko

I thought someone my have it already.Thanks for the info anyway.


----------



## Hotwil

First of all, a really HUGE THANKS Jubijub for have taking the time to answer me with all those steps and details, it really helps me a lot !

Well, after several tests, i've check all the wire and found the voltage for all of them








I also looked at at the diagram of my motherboard that i found on the manufacturer website (MSI B250i pro ac) and i'm almost at the end because i mostly have all the informations i need to correctly finish my sleeving job and put all the wire in their respective cases in the mb socket.



So, I do need :

- 4 x 3.3V -> Got it !
- 5 x 5V -> I found 7 !
- 1x -12V -> Got it !
- 2x 12 V -> Got it !
- 8 x Ground -> Got it !
- PS-ON -> Got it !
- PWR OK -> ?
- 5VSB -> ?
- RES -> ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jubijub*
> 
> - if you are testing the 24pin, check for specific values (eg : PSU on, Standby and Power on are all three +5V signals. Here you will have to rely on the standard
> 24pin pinout to determin if you found simple 5V


What do you mean by "rely on the standard 24pin to determin if you found simple 5V" ? I mean, what can i check except the voltage to ensure me that it's a "simple 5V" or not ?

With the voltages that i measured on my psu, i have 2 x 5V left, which i guess, are for PWR OK, 5VSB or RES ?
What about the -3.3V and -5V that you talked previously in your post ?

And there's an empty slot too, but what for ? I might say for the ground ?

I know that it's a lot of question, sorry about that, i just try to figure out this pinout problem and i couln't do it without your help









Thanks a lot !


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotwil*
> 
> First of all, a really HUGE THANKS Jubijub for have taking the time to answer me with all those steps and details, it really helps me a lot !


you are welcome








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotwil*
> 
> Well, after several tests, i've check all the wire and found the voltage for all of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also looked at at the diagram of my motherboard that i found on the manufacturer website (MSI B250i pro ac) and i'm almost at the end because i mostly have all the informations i need to correctly finish my sleeving job and put all the wire in their respective cases in the mb socket.


on the component side the pinning will always be the same because this is driven by ATX, PCIe and other related standards
http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5Catx2_2.PDF page 20, you should find something similar to what you found.

Check the pinouts here, you will see the comp side is always the same, you can trivially find 24pin pinnings with color code on the web.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotwil*
> 
> So, I do need :
> 
> - 4 x 3.3V -> Got it !
> - 5 x 5V -> I found 7 !
> - 1x -12V -> Got it !
> - 2x 12 V -> Got it !
> - 8 x Ground -> Got it !
> - PS-ON -> Got it !
> - PWR OK -> ?
> - 5VSB -> ?
> - RES -> ?
> What do you mean by "rely on the standard 24pin to determin if you found simple 5V" ? I mean, what can i check except the voltage to ensure me that it's a "simple 5V" or not ?
> 
> With the voltages that i measured on my psu, i have 2 x 5V left, which i guess, are for PWR OK, 5VSB or RES ?
> What about the -3.3V and -5V that you talked previously in your post ?
> 
> And there's an empty slot too, but what for ? I might say for the ground ?
> 
> I know that it's a lot of question, sorry about that, i just try to figure out this pinout problem and i couln't do it without your help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks a lot !




What I mean by this is that the 24pin side (the mobo plug if you will) absolutely always has the same pinout.
Regarding 5V, you have several types :
- standard 5V, that just provides +5V power for other components. They are always on when the PC is powered, always down when shut down
- signal 5V, which can be on or off, that is used for communication. For instance PWR OK is 0V when the computer is shut down (Oh really ?) and +5V is the PSU confirms that power is on.
- 5V SB (standby) provides +5V even when the PC is powered off, for components that can wake up the PC
- PS ON is used to power up the PC : shortcutting this pin with any ground actually starts the PC. it is also a +5V signal.

So the mobo side is always a given, the trick is to find which PSU pin provides which power, and what is the mapping between the PSU plug, and the mobo plug.


----------



## Hotwil

Perfect, it seems clear for me









But, with this in mind, what can i do to know which 5V wire is actually the standby for instance ?
And what about the empty slot ? It's always at the same place then ?

Oh and another thing, when i was taking the voltage on all wires, 2 wires touched each other and so, the psu just shut down instantly.
I removed the electricity cable for 10 seconds and the psu has run again, it seems that the psu was put on protection... Do you think that it should have damaged the psu and so, it would be better to buy a new one or there's no consequences ?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotwil*
> 
> Perfect, it seems clear for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But, with this in mind, what can i do to know which 5V wire is actually the standby for instance ?
> And what about the empty slot ? It's always at the same place then ?
> 
> Oh and another thing, when i was taking the voltage on all wires, 2 wires touched each other and so, the psu just shut down instantly.
> I removed the electricity cable for 10 seconds and the psu has run again, it seems that the psu was put on protection... Do you think that it should have damaged the psu and so, it would be better to buy a new one or there's no consequences ?


The empty slot is always in the same place. It's part of the ATX spec -- when you look at pinouts, you will see it denoted by "X" or something similar. Some people put a dummy wire in the empty slot to make the sleeved cable look better.

It is possible to reassign PSU wire pins to component pins in ways different than the PSU manufacturer did with their stock cables, in order to improve aesthetics. You will see references to such an operation in this thread very often. However, this is not an advisable option for a novice . The best strategy until you are confident you understand all the possible implications of such a decision is to reproduce the pinout employed by the PSU manufacturer. You can eliminate caps with (almost) impunity, and you can eliminate twisted wires with even less risk. But you should keep the split wires the way they are, and refrain from moving wires from one pin to another unless you are 100% certain you know what you are doing.

Your PSU is OK, don´d sweat it. But if you're still nervous, get a PSU tester and see for yourself.


----------



## Hotwil

Well, if i ask how to reassign the wire on the mb side, it's just because i removed the socket and made a mistake after sleeving, while i was reassigning the wires.

For now, i do have my volt values, so 3.3v,5V and so on.
But the point is that with the 5V, all of them seems not the same as Jubijub explained just above, like for the 5VSB and the POWER OK.

And i would ask this question one more time to be sure, except for these particular 5V wires, it doesn't matter from which pin it comes on the psu side while the voltage is correct ? No other parameter to take care ?


----------



## jvillaveces

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotwil*
> 
> Well, if i ask how to reassign the wire on the mb side, it's just because i removed the socket and made a mistake after sleeving, while i was reassigning the wires.
> 
> For now, i do have my volt values, so 3.3v,5V and so on.
> But the point is that with the 5V, all of them seems not the same as Jubijub explained just above, like for the 5VSB and the POWER OK.
> 
> And i would ask this question one more time to be sure, except for these particular 5V wires, it doesn't matter from which pin it comes on the psu side while the voltage is correct ? No other parameter to take care ?


The explanations and diagrams at http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5Catx2_2.PDF should provide all the information you need about the function of each wire in the ATX spec, as well as the voltages on each. This seems to be the information you're looking for. If you do go ahead and redesign your cable, be sure to test it with a PSU tester before putting it in a system.


----------



## Hotwil

I've read this document, but it actually give the definition for all of these connectors, okay, but not how to find which one is the correct one in a bunch of 5V wires...
From my point of view, the only thing i can measure is the voltage, i have 7 wires with 5V, but two of them should go for POWER OK and StandBy, my question is : How can i find them ?

Tell me if i'm wrong, but see that this 5VSB is always on, even when the psu is off, should i find 5V on this pin even if i let my psu off ? (By off, i mean on but not started with shuntage)


----------



## Jubijub

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hotwil*
> 
> I've read this document, but it actually give the definition for all of these connectors, okay, but not how to find which one is the correct one in a bunch of 5V wires...
> From my point of view, the only thing i can measure is the voltage, i have 7 wires with 5V, but two of them should go for POWER OK and StandBy, my question is : How can i find them ?
> 
> Tell me if i'm wrong, but see that this 5VSB is always on, even when the psu is off, should i find 5V on this pin even if i let my psu off ? (By off, i mean on but not started with shuntage)


Oh, you have removed the connector before doing the pinout ?









I am afraid you cannot really check, as nothing differentiates a +5V from another +5V

The only thing that could save you is if your PSU cables use wires of different colors, in which case the color will tell you what the wire does. But if you have a good PSU, then they are usually all black, and sleeved.

I am afraid you will have to find another cable to do the pinout, or try and find and existing pinout for your model.


----------



## Hotwil

Yes that's what i did :/

I know that's kind of stupid, i actually started with a first pin, sleeved it and put it in a "holder" in its respective slot (you know, kind of small plastic pieces made with 24 holes to correctly hold the sleeved wires together).
It shoud has worked but at the end, i saw that i made a mistake because the empty slot was not at the same slot as before (the 5th) but at the 6th slot.

I did proceed in the initial order of the mb connector but at the end, most wires are just offset by 1 slot .

But i do think that everything's not lost, like i said, i have another seasonic psu, the 620w, i've checked the pinout which is not perfectly the same regarding the double wires...

I will check all this one more time and see if i can figure out









Thanks for everything !!!


----------



## Hotwil

I finally find the correct pinout by comparing the cable of the 620w and if the "double wires" were not at the same slot then my 520w, it was exactly the same in terms of output values, which means that the pinout for both seasonic evo (520 & 620 at least) are identically the same, except for the double wires but it just change nothing.
Both have 4 double wires (1x3,3v / 1x5v, 1x12v / 1xGnd), it doesn't matter from where comes these double wires while the voltage are correctly assigned to the motherboard









Here's the pinout for both 520&620 evo (draw by myself), i hope it will help someone !


----------



## AgentMoros

*Seasonic Focus 650FX Gold Pin Out*

Not sure if someone else has posted one yet, but here is the pin out i came up with for the Seasonic Focus 650FX Gold :thumb:


----------



## DarryDj

*Seasonic Prime Titanium 650TD*

Hello Guys,

i did a sleeving on original cables for this power supply and i did it pin by pin, but after that i wanted to measure voltage on ATX24pin end, but i am unable to turn this power supply on. I did not tried to did that on original cables, so now i do not know if the power supply is defective, or i made during slaving some mistake. I tried to compare pinout with some of the which are here for seasonic, but they are really different. Could please anyone help here? Many thanks guys.


----------



## DarryDj

Hello guys,

could you please share, if someone have pinout for seasonic prime titanium 650 TD.

many thanks


----------



## OrionBG

Hey guys,
Anyone has the pinout of this monster: http://www.andysonpower.com/product.php?pid_for_show=3186&category_sn=502
Mine is an LC-Power 1000W v2.4: http://www.lc-power.com/en/product/netzteile/platinum-series/lc1000-v24/
and it is the same PSU basically...


----------



## yasirjamal

Hi Pros,
Hope you are all fine.
Can anyone post the pinout of Seasonic G Series. I am looking for a 450 watt psu.

Thanks....

Sent from my SJ1-5 using Tapatalk


----------



## Revan654

yasirjamal said:


> Hi Pros,
> Hope you are all fine.
> Can anyone post the pinout of Seasonic G Series. I am looking for a 450 watt psu.
> 
> Thanks....


The pinout for X-Series, XFX and Focus will work with G-series . You can also just look at the stock cables pinout and use that or build or own.



OrionBG said:


> Hey guys,
> Anyone has the pinout of this monster: http://www.andysonpower.com/product.php?pid_for_show=3186&category_sn=502
> Mine is an LC-Power 1000W v2.4: http://www.lc-power.com/en/product/netzteile/platinum-series/lc1000-v24/
> and it is the same PSU basically...


There isn't one, your going have to build your own or use the stock cable pinout.


----------



## yoi

i need help , cant find the pinout of a EVGA 850 T2 

ive done some extensions ... but man , this is another beast 

ive been reading and stuff , and i think im ready to tackle this , with all the cable splits and stuff 

thanks in advance !


----------



## rock14

hi guys! just bought the new Seasonic Prime ultra 750w titanium and i'm in the process of making full custom cables. This is the pinout that i made (double checked everything). 
Please if you're going to use it check it before use it. 
ps. i have the blank pinout table if someone want to use it (i made it by looking at the one found on the forum)


----------



## Revan654

rock14 said:


> hi guys! just bought the new Seasonic Prime ultra 750w titanium and i'm in the process of making full custom cables. This is the pinout that i made (double checked everything).
> Please if you're going to use it check it before use it.
> ps. i have the blank pinout table if someone want to use it (i made it by looking at the one found on the forum)


Are you 100% sure there four Double wires? Also double check to make sure there going to the right connector, Usually one or two of them are split between both connectors on PSU side.

- Also I wouldn't change the numbers around for perf connectors. I would use the default numbering so it doesn't confuse.

Have you run your cable through multi-meter or a PSU tester yet?


----------



## rock14

Revan654 said:


> Are you 100% sure there four Double wires? Also double check to make sure there going to the right connector, Usually one or two of them are split between both connectors on PSU side.
> Have you run your cable through multi-meter or a PSU tester yet?


I tested all with a multimeter (cable pinout and psu voltage). I'm pretty sure that this model has 4 double wires and they are not splitting in the 2 psu connectors. I looked at some other seasonic pinout and there is some difference. maybe in this new model they have change the pinout a little bit (i know that they have removed the capacitors on the wires).



> - Also I wouldn't change the numbers around for perf connectors. I would use the default numbering so it doesn't confuse.


Sorry but can you explain what do you mean? sorry...


----------



## Revan654

rock14 said:


> I tested all with a multimeter (cable pinout and psu voltage). I'm pretty sure that this model has 4 double wires and they are not splitting in the 2 psu connectors. I looked at some other seasonic pinout and there is some difference. maybe in this new model they have change the pinout a little bit (i know that they have removed the capacitors on the wires).
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but can you explain what do you mean? sorry...


There been a few revisions. The older versions did have four double wires, I have no idea what new one looks like. You should check the stock cables to see what pinout they use.

All connector slots are numbered, Changing them could confuse. Check the back of PCie connector or on top of the "Molex" connector.


----------



## rock14

Revan654 said:


> There been a few revisions. The older versions did have four double wires, I have no idea what new one looks like. You should check the stock cables to see what pinout they use.
> 
> All connector slots are numbered, Changing them could confuse. Check the back of PCie connector or on top of the "Molex" connector.


i have made the pinout using the seasonic stock cables. 

for the connector number i've use the same numbering that you find on the back of the connector. where you find REF, that's the reference connector that i used to do the pinout looking from the back of the connector where the cables enter. 
sorry if i created all of this mess...


----------



## Revan654

rock14 said:


> i have made the pinout using the seasonic stock cables.
> 
> for the connector number i've use the same numbering that you find on the back of the connector. where you find REF, that's the reference connector that i used to do the pinout looking from the back of the connector where the cables enter.
> sorry if i created all of this mess...


I'm just saying Sata and Molex connectors are also number(I know allot make mistakes on these since it's very easily to turn it up side down). 

Once complete I would also run it through a PSU tester to make sure all voltage output is correct. Thermaltake PSU tester is the best I've found. Since it's one of the few that supports both 6 and 8 pin GPU.

Creating a custom pinout is not a easy task, good job :specool: Not sure why SeaSonic needed four double wires, where most other PSU only need three. Some reason it needs more voltage sent to the ATX. I'm guessing it was due to removing the capacitors, Which corsair should follow. There no reason to have capacitors now of days. Thankfully EVGA does not, another reason to like EVGA even more.










Not the best picture, it gives you a nice LCD and results for each cable.


----------



## Modpcru

rock14 said:


> hi guys! just bought the new Seasonic Prime ultra 750w titanium and i'm in the process of making full custom cables. This is the pinout that i made (double checked everything).
> Please if you're going to use it check it before use it.
> ps. i have the blank pinout table if someone want to use it (i made it by looking at the one found on the forum)


This is true pinout. And attached is true too.
There are the difference:
1) in out of the signal of 3.3 V - 1/2 pin from ATX24
2) the sequence - 18-19-24 / 14-19-18 pin for ATX24 and some other
Both of them using GND/12/5/3.3 V and signals form GND/12/5/3.3 V from the same type of pins. So you can use both of them

And there pinout for Seasonic SSR-300SUB


----------



## Kenjiwing

Does anyone have the pinout for the EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2 220-P2-0850-X1? I cant seem to find it anywhere.


----------



## Revan654

Kenjiwing said:


> Does anyone have the pinout for the EVGA SuperNOVA 850 P2 220-P2-0850-X1? I cant seem to find it anywhere.


It's on the first page. 850 uses the same pinout as the other P2 and T2. I've fully tested it with both Pinouts.


----------



## Kunax

*beQuiet Dark Power Pro 11*

Does anyone has a PinOut for the beQuiet Dark Power Pro 11 850W?


----------



## Revan654

Kunax said:


> Does anyone has a PinOut for the beQuiet Dark Power Pro 11 850W?


Everything you need to build the cables is in the back of your manual. It shows you exactly what each slot does. 

Your going have to create your own pinout or use stock as a reference. There is no Pinout posted for most of the BeQuiet PSU's.

Only one I've seen one or two for there PSU's. It for one of there older PSU, Which I don't think they even make anymore.


----------



## jvillaveces

*EVGA Supernova 1200 P2*

This is a pinout for the EVGA Supernova 1200 P2. It documents the stock cables supplied by EVGA. It can be tweaked to rationalize routing, but this is what came with my PSU.


----------



## FredgHar

AgentMoros said:


> Not sure if someone else has posted one yet, but here is the pin out i came up with for the Seasonic Focus 650FX Gold :thumb:


Hi,

Is that verified? what's the source?


----------



## Modpcru

Pinouts. Corsair and Seasonic


----------



## Allenqas

*PCIE AND CPU connection has -12v*

MY seasonic prime ultra 1000w titanium has -12v on top level(near the clip) of the 8 pins PCIE and CPU. (power supply side connection) Does it matter?


----------



## Maltedsoyamilk

Does anyone know the silverstone sfx700-LPT pinouts? I can't find them anywhere on the user manual


----------



## Maltedsoyamilk

Big Elf said:


> This should confirm WiSKs pinouts for the SilverStone ST45SF-G 450W. This is for the *Silverstone SST-ST65F-G 650W*:
> 
> As always with my pin-outs you're looking at the connector from the rear (where the wire is inserted). Where 2 is shown in brackets after the wire colour on the 24 Pin Connector it denotes dual wires.
> 
> Always double check the pin-outs for your own PSU and I recommend investing in a PSU Tester, specifically the *Thermaltake Dr Power II* as it will test ALL the cables on an ATX PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> Note the dual wire on Pinout 21. This has an additional wire (looks like AWG20 or 22) crimped onto the same pin as the main wire.
> 
> Also note the dual wire crimped onto Pin 13 (3.3V) at the Motherboard end of the connection which goes to Pin 13 and also Pin 20 on the PSU end of the connection. This is a sense wire which is used to fine tune voltages at load.


I would like to know if the sx700-LPT uses the same pinouts as this Silverstone SST-ST65F-G 650W? I tried looking for it from the user manual and can't it anywhere. I don't have the cables that came with it anymore so I can't reference it from that


----------



## SethLethe

Good Evening, 
I am reading this forum quite a while now, Learned a lot and appreciate it thanks a lot!
I need a help on my sleeving project here, I got Seasonic Prime 750w Gold , I just tripped while doing the 24 pin and 6+2 pin, I searched the 100 pages ( took some time indeed ) couldn't find any pinout drawings over there. I already mailed Seasonic about the matter, however if anyone have the same PSU could you please share the pinout of? I have no knowledge or courage to check it with voltmeter actually. was going one by one while watching tv and I just lose the pin  
Thanks a lot in advance.


----------



## Minusorange

SethLethe said:


> Good Evening,
> I am reading this forum quite a while now, Learned a lot and appreciate it thanks a lot!
> I need a help on my sleeving project here, I got Seasonic Prime 750w Gold , I just tripped while doing the 24 pin and 6+2 pin, I searched the 100 pages ( took some time indeed ) couldn't find any pinout drawings over there. I already mailed Seasonic about the matter



https://seasonic.com/main/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/PRIME-PD-GD-user-manual.pdf

Page 58 has the pins no ?


----------



## SethLethe

Minusorange said:


> https://seasonic.com/main/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/PRIME-PD-GD-user-manual.pdf
> 
> Page 58 has the pins no ?


Well that page is only showing the 24 pin end, I was asking more on 10+18 pin ends :/


----------



## Himo5

I would urge anyone intending to sleeve their own cable set to get a digital multimeter and not depend on any pinouts they find online - these are not expensive items.


They should be having to test their own cables before they can use them anyway so they might as well start by building a pinout of the cable set they are going to replace.


Draw a diagram of the connector at the device end and diagram(s) of the PSU connectors at the other end of the cable, making a note of which side of the connector has the lug. 



Then turn the multimeter dial to 200 Ohms and test each pin at the device end against all the pins at the PSU end, noting the device pin number in the PSU pin box whenever the multimeter registers a connection.


When you have finished don't forget to dial the multimeter back to Off.


----------



## Minusorange

SethLethe said:


> Well that page is only showing the 24 pin end, I was asking more on 10+18 pin ends :/


Get a cheap multimeter and use continuity function to check each pin so you're 100%, nobody seems to have uploaded anything for the 10+18 PSU side

Otherwise if you're not willing to buy a MM then just trace out the wires


----------



## yasirjamal

Hi... How r u guys.
Can anyone tell whats the pinout configuration of Corsair HX620w.. I need the the voltages for 5pin connector for IDE/SATA.

Thanks in advance..

Sent from my Infinix X510 using Tapatalk


----------



## Modpcru

yasirjamal said:


> Hi... How r u guys.
> Can anyone tell whats the pinout configuration of Corsair HX620w.. I need the the voltages for 5pin connector for IDE/SATA.


Seems like 3.3V/GND/5V/GND/12V
http://www.pcstats.com/articleimages/200611/corsairHX620W_rpspc.jpg

Can anyone tell whats the pinout configuration of EVGA g2L series?
https://www.pcper.com/files/review/2016-10-07/13b-Front-cables.jpg


----------



## Big Elf

yasirjamal said:


> Hi... How r u guys.
> Can anyone tell whats the pinout configuration of Corsair HX620w.. I need the the voltages for 5pin connector for IDE/SATA.
> 
> Thanks in advance..
> 
> Sent from my Infinix X510 using Tapatalk


Is *this* what you're after?


----------



## yasirjamal

Big Elf said:


> Is *this* what you're after?


No I am looking for the voltages on that 5pin ide/sata connector back at PSU. I think its
+12 G G +5 +3 i.e Y G G R O
With the clip facing downwards.

I don't have the psu with me otherwise i would have checked it by multimeter....

Anyone can confirm this ?

Sent from my Infinix X510 using Tapatalk


----------



## Big Elf

That image is supposed to represent the PSU end.


----------



## syntaxhighlight

Did someone maybe already a Pin Out from a Seasonic Prime 1200 Gold?

Gesendet von meinem SM-G930F mit Tapatalk


----------



## duniek

SEASONIC PLATNIUM XP2/XP3 pinout (should be works with gold as well)











if you want power UP psu without ATX wire harness - you have to connect green + any GND pin PLUS 2x GND (if you dont connect 2x GND in upper socket psu will start on 0,5s and off)

LIKE THIS











PS
additional info
molex/sata wires for PSU lc power 850W arkangel or sth is the same as type3/type4 cables (the same pinout)


----------



## duniek

silentmaxx 500W platnium fanless


----------



## getloki

Hi guys, anyone can share the pinouts for Corsair HX750 Non i Platinum psu? I can't seem to find any in here.


----------



## jvillaveces

getloki said:


> Hi guys, anyone can share the pinouts for Corsair HX750 Non i Platinum psu? I can't seem to find any in here.


try these resources:

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility
http://www.modders-inc.com/power-supply-pinout-repository/8/


----------



## duniek

EDIT

nevermind

RAILS pinout in enemrax reevolutions psus

https://abload.de/img/revolutionpinoutto4fj8.png


----------



## elrompeplacas

Hi! someone has the pinout for the bequiet straight power 11?
thank you!!!


----------



## NYM

Hey guys, the last time I sleeved was my X-560 8 years ago. Now, I am tempted to sleeve my current Seasonic Focus Plus 550W. After much looking, I notice that the Seasonic psu 24 pin layout did not change from the X series days. 

I would like to confirm that as long the correct voltages are fed to the correct motherboard voltages(5V to 5V, 3.3V to 3.3), I shouldn't worry about the stock cable arrangement right?


----------



## atomicus

Would anyone know where I might be able to find the pinout for the SilverStone Nightjar NJ450-SXL? Thanks.


----------



## WiSK

atomicus said:


> Would anyone know where I might be able to find the pinout for the SilverStone Nightjar NJ450-SXL? Thanks.


It's mostly a Strider pinout, so you can look at the ST45SF-G or ST65-G pinouts in the OP. 

But Silverstone recently added 4-pin voltage sense to their newer PSUs. Basically it doubles up 4 of the wires on the motherboard side of the ATX24: one 3.3V, one 5V, one 12V and one ground. It uses this as a sort of Kelvin Bridge to make adjustments to the voltages delivered. You can check your original cables to see exact which pins are doubled. I did this recently with a ST65F-PT, but I'm sorry I didn't write down exactly which pins. If I look at the motherboard connector, all 4 extra wires are at the bottom, so I would guess pins 11+12+23+24. Then using the original cables, check where they lead to on the 4-pin sense connector. Best to use a multimeter to confirm circuit.

However, good news is: it doesn't need these double wires to function. The PSU stays within ATX spec even without the voltage sensor connector connected. This is sure because Silverstone themselves sell replacement sleeved cables that do not have the sense connector.

So you have a choice depending if you are adept at making double crimps. If you are good at crimping then go ahead, make the sense connector. Otherwise, keep it simple and just make the ATX24 as a one-to-one.


----------



## NoobasaurusWrex

Hey everyone,

My Seasonic 1200 XP3 PSU is on its way out and I'm looking to replace it. I have custom cablemod cables so I need to ensure the pinouts are the same for the Prime 1300 Platinum (SSR-1300PD) that I'm hoping to replace it with. CableMod doesnt have the PSU listed in their compatibility list, but I have also noticed not many people are talking about this particular PSU in general.

Can anyone confirm or deny if the layout is the same?


----------



## Lutfij

I'm looking into buying the GM series of SFX PSU's from EVGA. Anyone know if the platform's pinouts are shared with their other units? They seem to have individually sleeved cables but for the case I want sleeving it in(Compact Splash) are too long hence why I need to make custom(very short) length sets.


----------



## Kenjiwing

Hey guys I have a corsair SF600 that apparently isnt beefy enough to OC the new 9900k with so I need a new psu. I made custom cables for my SF600 so id really like to keep them. Can anyone confirm that the SF600 (I think its type 4) is compatible with the Corsair RMX850x (2018 edition)? The corsair compatibility chart looks like it but id prefer to get some guidance from the pros.

https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SF60...pID=51KMMloK5gL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch (purchased in 2016)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079H5WNXN/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1


----------



## DaaQ

Cable sleeving sub forum is gone??


----------



## mubo84

Hello

I am looking PIN OUT for the EVGA SUPERNOVA P2 650W ,on the first side is not... (there is not HW side pci-e x6 either polarity capacitors) it is hard to find, this theme is very extensive
Thanks for help


----------



## Moshe2

Hey guys, I'm only new here so please go easy on me. I bought a Thermaltake PS-TPI-1250DPCTAU-T 1250W 80Plus unit and have a question about the CPU cables that came with it. My MB has 2 sockets for the CPU and the PSU came with 2x 8-pin cables. Both are labelled as CPU. The connectors on one look identical on each end with the single clip, but on the other one there's a single clip on one end and a double clip on the other connector end, like 2x 4-pin connectors stuck together.

Anyway, I could not find the pinout for the PSU side of the CPU power socket. I have emailed TT a few weeks ago and got no response whatsoever. I have decided to put the parts together and after going through the cables, I've noticed that the wires from pins 1-4 on one side of the cable/connector go to pins 5-8 on the other side. I double checked the MB manual and it states pins 1-4 are Ground and pins 5-8 are +12V for both power sockets.

Without knowing the pinout on the TT PSU, my question is, would all the pinouts on PSU's be standard? Also, why would they include these types of cables, or are there 2 ways to connect the CPU power, such as straight through wires from pins 1-8 going from one end to pins 1-8 of another without crossover, and with the crossover of pins 1-4 from one end to 5-8 of another?

Sorry for my lack of understanding, but if anyone knows anything about this and can help, I'd be so grateful. Don't want to plug it in and blow the MB again.

Thank you all for your patience. I've read through this whole interesting thread but couldn't find anything that answers my question.


----------



## Deathscythes

Moshe2 said:


> Hey guys, I'm only new here so please go easy on me. I bought a Thermaltake PS-TPI-1250DPCTAU-T 1250W 80Plus unit and have a question about the CPU cables that came with it. My MB has 2 sockets for the CPU and the PSU came with 2x 8-pin cables. Both are labelled as CPU. The connectors on one look identical on each end with the single clip, but on the other one there's a single clip on one end and a double clip on the other connector end, like 2x 4-pin connectors stuck together.
> 
> Anyway, I could not find the pinout for the PSU side of the CPU power socket. I have emailed TT a few weeks ago and got no response whatsoever. I have decided to put the parts together and after going through the cables, I've noticed that the wires from pins 1-4 on one side of the cable/connector go to pins 5-8 on the other side. I double checked the MB manual and it states pins 1-4 are Ground and pins 5-8 are +12V for both power sockets.
> 
> Without knowing the pinout on the TT PSU, my question is, would all the pinouts on PSU's be standard? Also, why would they include these types of cables, or are there 2 ways to connect the CPU power, such as straight through wires from pins 1-8 going from one end to pins 1-8 of another without crossover, and with the crossover of pins 1-4 from one end to 5-8 of another?
> 
> Sorry for my lack of understanding, but if anyone knows anything about this and can help, I'd be so grateful. Don't want to plug it in and blow the MB again.
> 
> Thank you all for your patience. I've read through this whole interesting thread but couldn't find anything that answers my question.


Hello, welcome to OCN =)
The pinout on the PSU side is not standard which is why one shouldn't plug random cables on any PSU. However the pinout on the hardware side has to be standard otherwise we would have some serious incompatibility issue. You're safe, the stock cables of your PSU use the correct pinout. The reason one of your cable is 2x4pin is simply for compatibility with 4pin male connectors that you find on many boards. I hope that clarifies things


----------



## supremleo

Hi there wonder if its someone else besides me still looking at this thread? Am planing to add the Corsair RM1000i and the SF450 so my questions is how to post them that they appear in the right place in this case in the Corsair session? Thanks in advance 

BTW I learned to sleeve with your tutorial in youtube @Lutro0 many thanks.


----------



## Big Elf

Sadly, unless Lutro0 comes back to take control of the thread or the mods give control to someone competent to maintain it then the original entries in the first post containing the main pinouts won't be updated. Although I used to maintain this thread for a while to help out Lutro0 that's not going to happen again.

I suspect that now the original Cable and Sleeving section has been closed that Lutro0 no longer wishes to take part in the forum and I'm guessing that life got in the way as it has with me.

You can post your pinout here and hope that others needing it will find it on a search.


----------



## Dexter Bows

Hello i need Help, I have EVGA 1000 Supernova G+ and i missing their 24 pin cable, iwant to make one but i cant find any Pinout around, im not sure with Page 1 it said for g2 series, but i have G+ series,someone please help me,anyone have 24 pin pinout for EVGA Supernova 1000 G+?


----------



## kot0005

anyone got a pinout for AX1000 Titanium psu ?


----------



## David Brawley

Please help!... Hey guys new here, first off thanks for all the work put into this thread looks great. But I was unable to find my power supply pinout. I am in desperate need of it, I wrote up my own diagram but I failed to pay attention to which side the 4 pin on the 20+4 went. Does anyone have the pinout for the Corsair RM850I.


----------



## Modpcru

Everything here


----------



## HCBoyZ

anyone have superflower leadex 550w silver psu pin out? please help


----------



## Kazziel

*sleeve wired seasonic 850 focus plus platinum*

Hi guys, all right? I invoke the teachers of the PSU and I respectfully request the pinout diagram of the seasonic source 850w focus plus platinum (ssr 850px) please! it's of vital importance. thank you!


----------



## Kazziel

Hello!,
Thanks for sharing.
This diagram is compatible with seasonic focus + 850w platinum?
best regards!


----------



## hanbin719

good~1 need it


----------



## senthiele

*G.skill Ripjaws PS850G Pinout*

anyone have a G.skill Ripjaws PS850G Pinout for atx cables. trying to do my owe sleeve setup but do not have pinout setting.


----------



## nocturnal112

Can I use cables from a RM550x with a RM850x? Thanks in advance.


----------



## RoGDoM

Hi everyone, I need help with Corsair AX860i power supply cables, basically I am trying to gather-buy multiple corsair branded and/or after market individually good looking cables for this power supply, trying to widen my choice with corsair and cable mode kits especially type 4 (price point, availability and looks of type4 kits)

- On corsair website compatibility chart >> https://www.corsair.com/us/en/psu-cable-compatibility
it mentions that AX860i would be compatible with all type3 cables evidently, and also with type 4 EPS12V and PCIe ( type 4 mobo 24 pin not compatible ?), (no mention of type 4 sata or molex in the whole chart apparently they may be the same as type 3) 

- Another website (https://www.corsair.com/us/en/blog/Explanation-of-RMi-New-Type-4-Cables ) mentions that the only difference between type 4 and type 3 cables is that the type 4 cables are equipped with capacitors for electrical noise reduction " This improved ripple suppression is a direct result of the Type 4 cables included with the RMi Series power supplies. The Type 4 cables have the same pin-out as Type 3 cables, but include small, solid capacitors on the +12V, +5V and +3.3V leads on the 24-pin, PCIe and EPS12V cables.", it also include ( at least type 4 gen3) 4 more wires on the motherboard cable from PSU side called voltage sense wires that land onto 24 pin motherboard side bundled with other pre existing wires.
So why shouldn't they be compatible with type3 corsair PSU in all the cables range?
I was also to spot a difference in PSU side pin out between peripherals wiring between type3 and type 4 >> https://www.modders-inc.com/power-supply-pinout-repository/8/

- Also why corsair type3 cables are referred to as generation 2, while type4 cables are referred to as generation 4 and at other times as generation 3: must be a difference there that I am missing.
Really mind boggling stuff.
Please help.
thanks


----------



## nocturnal112

*nocturnal112*



nocturnal112 said:


> Can I use cables from a RM550x with a RM850x? Thanks in advance.


Edit: The RM850x V2


----------



## GTS81

*Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 850W*

Hi all,

Just bought the SSR-850FX and the cables are too chunky for my small casing. Looking into learning how to do custom cabling and in an effort not to blow up my new PSU, here's what I have mapped out using a multimeter and the 24-pin ATX cable. Please let me know if you notice something amiss. I'll map the other cables this week. Thanks.


----------



## cdnGhost

Does anyone have a pinout for an ASUS Thor 850w? or know which brand it is? I hear Seasonic but want to make sure

Thanks


----------



## Modpcru

cdnGhost - yes, it is.
Is there anyone knows about ATX24 pinout for Zalman 1000 EBT?


----------



## cdnGhost

Modpcru said:


> cdnGhost - yes, it is.
> Is there anyone knows about ATX24 pinout for Zalman 1000 EBT?


Thanks, I ended up just tearing the stock cables down and making my own pinout... I will clean it up and post it this week.


----------



## BroadPwns

Seasonic Focus Plus Gold (most likely GX too) PCI Express cable (not the PSU itself, I can't be bothered to do it) pinout, it's basically 1:1 to the PCI Express socket pinout with an exception of one empty slot. I might one day do the rest too.


----------



## Modpcru

Bought Zalman ZM-1000 EBT and made the pinout measurement:


----------



## TheJesus

Anyone happen to know if the Seasonic XP2 P-660 and Seasonic SS-1050XP3 share pinouts? It looks like most of Seasonic's line are the same, just want to check. Thanks!


----------



## jvillaveces

TheJesus said:


> Anyone happen to know if the Seasonic XP2 P-660 and Seasonic SS-1050XP3 share pinouts? It looks like most of Seasonic's line are the same, just want to check. Thanks!


I don't know. I've had a few Seasonics, and they were different from each other. Best bet is to spend some quality time with your stock cables, a multimeter, and a piece of paper to figure out the pinout for your particular psu. Sometimes they vary even within the same model. Right now I'm building cables for an EVGA 1200 P2. It turned out to be different from my previous 1200P2, bought about 3 years apart and externally identical.


----------



## smilinjohn

jvillaveces said:


> I don't know. I've had a few Seasonics, and they were different from each other. Best bet is to spend some quality time with your stock cables, a multimeter, and a piece of paper to figure out the pinout for your particular psu. Sometimes they vary even within the same model. Right now I'm building cables for an EVGA 1200 P2. It turned out to be different from my previous 1200P2, bought about 3 years apart and externally identical.





I have those pinouts


----------



## BlackDragonier

Hello.

If anyone have the Cooler Master MWE series fully modular PSU pinout chart, please share it with me. Looking for a long time. 

Product link - https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/power-supplies/mwe-series/mwe-gold-650-full-modular/

Thanks in advanced.

Dragon


----------



## zxy

https://imgur.com/gallery/gIBIdYi

this is all information that i can collect by far(sorry for google trans grammer)
pls help me connect it

and how do i know when should i use 18awg or 24awg?

btw my psu is *super flower leadex iii argb*


----------



## Inso_

*Pinouts - Seasonic PX 650 Focus+ (Modular 80+ Platinium)*

Hello !

I didn't fin any diagrams over the Internet about the Seasonic PX 650 Focus+ and it's really a shame that Seasonic doesn't share any spec about it !
I took the diagram base of the user Hotwil (a big thanks to him). It's clear to understand and I hope this will help some people can sleeve this beautiful PSU.










-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also i add the clean version of the diagrams if it can be useful for someone


----------



## ale88hardwire

hi, 
can anyone help me find the pinout of Enermax Platimax DF 750w Platinum? Thanks!


----------



## ale88hardwire

if somebody needs it, here the pinout of Enermax Platimax DF 750w EPF750EWT (the one with 18+10pin MB). The pinout is the same of Corsair Type 4 except for the different connector for PCIe (10pin). Be carefull because the 10pin PCIE is different compared to the motherboard 10pin!


----------



## KedarWolf

Can I use a PCI-e cable from an AX1500i with a Seasonic 1200w Platinum??

The Corsair is a Type 3, can find info on the Seasonic PCI-e cable, might be a Type 1. 

I'm pretty sure I can't, think the pinouts are different.


----------



## skupples

you should be able to eye ball it. find out what the 1200 plug looks like, & move the pins. check twice, plug once.


----------



## thebordella

Long shot here, but looking for pinout for the original NZXT Hale90(-650-M) (not the V2). This PSU has eight 8 pin connectors that support any of the cables. I do not have any cables for it, so I need the pinout for the PSU side to make my own cables. Thanks!


----------



## ale88hardwire

KedarWolf said:


> Can I use a PCI-e cable from an AX1500i with a Seasonic 1200w Platinum??
> 
> The Corsair is a Type 3, can find info on the Seasonic PCI-e cable, might be a Type 1.
> 
> I'm pretty sure I can't, think the pinouts are different.


if u mean Prime Platinum you can't. the pinout is the same but the connectors (PSU side) are different.


----------



## ale88hardwire

thebordella said:


> Long shot here, but looking for pinout for the original NZXT Hale90(-650-M) (not the V2). This PSU has eight 8 pin connectors that support any of the cables. I do not have any cables for it, so I need the pinout for the PSU side to make my own cables. Thanks!


if u have the psu and not cables you can find the pinout with a multimeter and some practice.


----------



## jivefly

Before I check the pinout myself, I figured I'd ask: does anyone have component/GPU side PCIe 8-pin/6+2-pin pinout for EVGA 850 G2/G3/P2/T2? It's awesome, but at the same time a little silly that someone took the time to make the PSU and component side pinouts for the 24-pin, but only bothered with PSU side on the PCIe. I haven't been able to find it anywhere for these PSU's. I'm thinking I'll just grab the harness and isolate each wire myself with a continuity test and a hand drawn pin-out chart. 

I essentially just want to make shorty cables so that it's easy, and much cheaper, to simply switch out to any extension set if I ever want/need to change the color or length. Rather than being stuck with a single expensive full custom cable kit.


----------



## iamjanco

Firmed up that the following will work for the *Seasonic Prime Titanium SSR 850w TR*. It likely also will work for the other models listed in the diagram below, but I didn't confirm those. It also differs from the stock oem cable, but the assumption is a few of the pins (10) on the 18 pin plug at the psu end were moved around to accommodate a neater sleeving/cable comb arrangement. 

One thing not noted in the diagram: While Seasonic didn't use caps in the cable, there is a twisted 3-wire triplett that goes from the 24P (MB end) connector to the 10P (PSU end) connector, assumably to help negate induced noise/hum. The details of that triplet follow:



Code:


24P-8	->	10P-10	(P.G.)
24P-9	->	10P-9	(+5Vsb)
24P-19	->	10P-2	(GND)










*Image source.*

Going to rewire the stock oem psu cable I'm using in my Muffler Bearings build that'll connect to the custom psu breakout board I've also added:


----------



## KedarWolf

Can I use an 8 pin CPU power cable from an AX1500i on an EVGA 1600w Supernova G2?

I ask because I bought a used G2 and it's missing one of two 8 pin CPU power cables. 

Edit. No, different pinout PSU side.


----------



## tistou77

Hello

Sorry i didn't know where to ask this

I had sleeved "Seasonic" wires (those of colors, the old ones)
Needing another 8 pins, I wanted to sleeve it but it is more complicated now (a lot of trouble to fit the heat-shrinkable sheath into the connector) I stopped and used the original Seasonic cable (the flat and black)

I noticed that the wires section is smaller than the colored ones (ATX 12v and GND)

Seasonic had seen too "big" at the time ?

I was wondering about for the "heat" the wires

Thanks


----------



## BlackDragonier

Hello, I am posting here again. I found the 24 pin pin layout for Cooler Master MWE 750w Gold. Here - https://imgur.com/a/NVEZjlk

Hope it helps some people.


----------



## BlackDragonier

Hello, 

I am posting again. I am looking for Antec HCG 650w Gold series PSU pin layout. If anyone have it, please do share it. Here is the official website of the PSU - https://www.antec.com/product/power/hcg-gold650.php

Thanks in advanced.
Dragon


----------



## SteezyTN

Hi all, Just a little curious. I ordered some sleeving products from mainframe customs to make some extensions for my EVGA 850 P2... but would eventually like to make full length cables. It just worries me with the layout and correct placement. I also have CableMod Pro cables, and when I look at the pinout on the page here, it doesn't match up with the remade CableMod Pro cables. Am I missing something?

EDIT** Nevermind... Forgot to realize that the pin layout is shown in the "rear view." Everything lines up. Thanks


----------



## Doc1355

Hello guys!

Is there any detailed pinout for the Corsair AX760?
The only info I can find is very misleading.

As far as I can see the AX760 uses Corsair Type3 cables except for the 24pin.

But what is the pinout for the 24pin??

Thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## WiSK

Seasonic Focus PX-850, it was a little different than previous Seasonic Focus models.


----------



## Doc1355

Are you guys able to see the No1 post with the pinouts?

Since the update nothing is visible to me!


----------



## ruffhi

I just ran across 'shorty' cables at mod-one. Has anyone used one of these? I tried to make one but my attempt descended into a) madness and b) a mess.

Edit: It looks pretty small and compact. This is the Corsair version ... so that wire confusion will differ for each maker / model.


----------



## Doc1355

Yeah I recently made a couple of them as testers for my custom cable sets.

It depends on how short the cable is, could be a pain in the ass though hahaha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## Doc1355

Is there a plan to fix the TS post so we can be able to see the pinouts again?

It’s all messed up right now!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## joufflu

Hi
I'm new to custom cables and sleeving. I've just bought all the tools needed, and got my new PSU (Corsair RM 850x).
THe first thing I did was to remove the stock sleeves from the cables provided with the PSU. I checked the arrangement of the every single wire on the ATX 24 pin, the PCIe 8 pin, and the EPS 8 pin cables.
What I noticed immediately was that the wires were not connected the same way as indicated in the pinouts diagrams I found online (for Type 4 PSU). Of course, the colors corresponded (red with red, black with black and so on), but for every cable the layout of the wires were slightly different.
So my question is simple: should I connect the wires of the custom cables exactly like they are on the stock cables? Or can I follow a less entangled layout, as long as voltages fit, like it seems to be in the diagrams I found online? Lastly, is it normal to see discrepancies between diagram and the actual wires on my cables?
Thanks,


----------



## Himo5

If you are talking about double wires on the 24 pin ATX cable the RM850 probably follows the variations I saw on my 4 copies of the KM3 iteration of Seasonic's X850 Gold PSUs, which I have set out in Notes 2, 3, 4 and 5 on my pinout. The double wires at the motherboard end vary but the pins they connect to at the PSU end do not.


----------



## joufflu

Hello Himo5 and thanks for your reply. I'll have a look more precisely when I'm back home.
I'm not talking only about the ATX cable.
For instance here is the pinout I have marked down for the EPS CPU cable (for perspective, the "C" is the little plastic pin, and I look at the connector from the wired side)








And here is the Corsair Type 4 pinout diagram I found:








As I wrote, the "yellow" are connected with the yellow, and blacks with blacks. But in a different order.
I quickly checked on the ATX diagram I made (red are double wires, correspondingother ends are in yellow, PSU side)
















and here is what the diagram says: it is the same motherboard side, but not the same PSU side. Again, the colors correspond though.


----------



## Himo5

So, for the ATX cable and calling the 18pin outlet A and the 10pin outlet B, 
the pinout has ATX pin 19(Ground) to A16+A17 and you found 19 connected to A14+A17, but A16 is also Ground
the pinout has ATX pin 13(-+3.3V) to A10+B06 and you found 13 connected to A01+B06, but A10 is also +3.3V
the pinout has ATX pin 21(---+5V) to A08+B07 and you found 21 connected to A08+B08, but B07 is also +5V
the pinout has ATX pin 10(--+12V) to A18+B03 and you found 10 connected to A18+B04, but B03 is also +12V
Meanwhile, on the EPS cable at the motherboard end you found they had mixed up the ground lines in the row opposite to the lug instead of having them in reverse order to their position adjacent to the lug at the PSU end.

As long as these variations still conform with the correct PSU rail you can still formalise your own version based on the standard pinout. You certainly wouldn't want to emulate that weird EPS variation.


----------



## joufflu

Himo5 said:


> So, for the ATX cable and calling the 18pin outlet A and the 10pin outlet B,
> the pinout has ATX pin 19(Ground) to A16+A17 and you found 19 connected to A14+A17, but A16 is also Ground
> the pinout has ATX pin 13(-+3.3V) to A10+B06 and you found 13 connected to A01+B06, but A10 is also +3.3V
> the pinout has ATX pin 21(---+5V) to A08+B07 and you found 21 connected to A08+B08, but B07 is also +5V
> the pinout has ATX pin 10(--+12V) to A18+B03 and you found 10 connected to A18+B04, but B03 is also +12V


Ok it put my brain upside down to check that but yes, that is correct. 😅 So no problem then?



Himo5 said:


> Meanwhile, on the EPS cable at the motherboard end you found they had mixed up the ground lines in the row opposite to the lug instead of having them in reverse order to their position adjacent to the lug at the PSU end.
> 
> As long as these variations still conform with the correct PSU rail you can still formalise your own version based on the standard pinout. You certainly wouldn't want to emulate that weird EPS variation.


I'm not entirely sure if I understand you: do you mean that I can rearrange the wires on the motherboard side to 8 7 6 5, as the pinout diagram states? Why do you say that I don't want to emulate this, is it dangerous in some way?


As for the PCIe cable I noticed that there are some serious discrepancies as well. The double wire is on a different pin, and the empty pin is different... Should I be worried?









Thanks!


----------



## Himo5

Yes, so if you can match those rail checks on a pinout variation from the standard there should be no problems emulating the standard rather than the variation. 
As for my comment about the EPS cable, I was thinking about the cable routing you are trying to achieve when emulating the supplied cable set. A set of wires running from the device to a reverse set of pins at the outlet can be difficult enough to bundle together smoothly but when the reversal is only partial you are liable to get as tangled up a mess as you would using the supplied cables.


----------



## joufflu

Ok thank you Himo5, really appreciate the help. I am now reassured. I will receive my MDPC-X sleeves and tools tomorrow, can't wait to get my hands dirty!


----------



## Himo5

Good luck. If you want I made an illustrated instructional post in Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion about a stealth method for splitting double wires without losing the electrical advantage of doubling them at the pin


----------



## Doc1355

Himo5 said:


> Good luck. If you want I made an illustrated instructional post in Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion about a stealth method for splitting double wires without losing the electrical advantage of doubling them at the pin


If only the post was visible 


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## joufflu

Himo5 said:


> Good luck. If you want I made an illustrated instructional post in Cable Sleeving Gallery & Discussion about a stealth method for splitting double wires without losing the electrical advantage of doubling them at the pin


I saw it a couple of days ago while I was browsing the thread, but I thought that was too much advanced for a beginner 
I have not used a solder iron since I was 12. I will have a look when my cables will be ready. Oh, I foresee good times...


----------



## Doc1355

Am I doing something wrong here?
The post you mentioned looks like that on my browser, both on phone and desktop.











Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## joufflu

Many posts look like that for me, but not the one he linked earlier.


----------



## iamjanco

That's the content that had html code formatting that's incompatible with Xenforo, the result of Vertical Scope's deployment of the platform to OCN. They say they're working on fixing it; time will tell just how true that is.


----------



## 2D.

Hello everyone! I'm just wondering if you guys have a pin out diagram for Thermaltake DPS G RGB 1250W psu. I've been having a hard time to search the internet for a pin-out diagram. Thanks in advance!


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## Phil480

Hi all, am currently looking for a Zalman ZM-750HP or ZM600/500HP PSU pinout. All your helps would be great and highly appreciated. Thanks ☺


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## JackCY

Buy almost any $10 multimeter and measure it, better safe than sorry.


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## Nathan615154

Does anyone have the pin layout for the Corsair Hx 1000?


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## aRkangeLPT

Serious problem here 

The AX850 Pinout has the view from thee back or from the front of the conector?


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## Himo5

This Corsair 24pin from the AX850 PSU copies the 24 pin arrangement on the Seasonic X850/KM3 PSU.
Looking at it in detail, as follows, you can go by the Seasonic chart, which gives a wire entry(rear) view.
The only difference may be that the line from Pin 9 on the ATX end is not twisted with one of the ground lines.
There are doubled wires for Ground, 3.3v, 5v and 12v from ATX pins 3, 2, 6 and 10 - as on the X850, which connect to the same Grd/3.3v/5v blocks on the 18 pin PSU end with a random choice of pins within each block, while the 12v doubled wire from ATX pin 10 goes to the 10 pin PSU connector, just as on the X850. 
On the Seasonic X850 the doubled line consists of an 18g wire and a 22g wire with the 22g wire going to the PSU pin marked with an s (GNDs/+3V3s/+5Vs/+12Vs) on the Corsair chart - you should check the Corsair cable to see if the same gauges are used on that.
The block of 3 Ground lines from ATX pins 18/19/24 goes to the same block of PSU pins, 1/2/3, on the 10 pin PSU connector.
The 4 special lines, PSR-OK/+5Vsb/-12V/PS-ON, from ATX pins 8,9,14 and 16 go to the same PSU pins, 10, 9, 8 and 5, on the 10 pin connector (on the X850 the -12V and PWR-OK wires are 20g).
Finally, just as on the Seasonic X850, ATX pin 20 and Pin 7 on the 18 pin PSU connector are not connected.


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## objecttothis

SimonOcean said:


> Guys,
> 
> I had not found a pinout schematic for my Power Supply: the (relatively) new Corsair RM1000i. So I did the work myself. I've saved the work and am happy to share it with you all / the Overclock.net community. Many of you have helped me, so it is good karma to give something back! Maybe some of you will find this useful.
> 
> (As a health warning. I have triple checked this data, but I will not take responsibility for any errors or omission. You use this data at your own risk. One thing I was not sure about was the definitions of the writing on top of the SMD capacitors. If anyone else reading this has a correction, please let me know and I will update the source document.).
> 
> See attached. - Simon.
> 
> Corsair RM1000i pinout schematics


I have a Corsair RM1000i and these pinouts do not match what my unit has. Either this guy did the pinout for a different unit but labeled it as the RM1000i, the same unit but did them wrong or Corsair has multiple revisions of the RM1000i with different pinouts in the wild. I'm stuck on the 24 pin ATX because I didn't label which double-pin wires were the 22 AWG and which were the 16 AWG. Does anyone have an actual pinout or do I just need to rewire those ones so all of them are using 16 AWG? The 22AWG go to the CHK pins and if I swap them accidentally, I'll still get the right voltage but risk getting too much current down a narrow wire and melting the wire.


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## jvillaveces

Sometimes manufacturers change pinouts for the same model. I have experienced this with Seasonic, and more recently with EVGA 1200 P2. The only assurance you will have of a correct pinout is to make your own by using a multimeter on the stock cables and writing it down. You don't run any risks by using all 16 ga wire, it's what I routinely do on my custom cables. I don't like to mix gauges because the sleeving doesn't't look good.


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## farmerginge

Sorry if I'm just being an idiot but are any of these pinout diagrams compatible with the Corsair AX760 (platinum) 24pin?


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## Alhadied

Revoluzion Tech said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> Just wanted to share repository pin outs for SuperFlower Leadex Silver 550W - SF-550F14MT
> 
> 24 pins have 3 double wiring. For the pcie and eps connectors, they are one to one, they are not universal among each other as it is seperated on the psu itself and requires identical connectors for it. For example, pcie connectors on the psu will only fit pcie connectors and would not fit the EPS connectors.
> 
> Picture for pin out attached.
> 
> Tested and all works fine, however we would not be liable for any wrong doings done, rest assured we had triple check the pin outs and tested with PSU tester and works well.
> 
> We will be doing the 650w silver and the gold series version as well soon, however the gold series which uses acrylic transparent type connectors are unique, they are 3 rows instead of 2 rows basic connectors used. Basically we would have to re-use the original connectors that came with it.
> 
> SuperFlower-Leadex-Silver-550W---SF-550F14MT.jpg 105k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Any questions, feel free to PM me.
> 
> Thanks,
> Revoluzion Technologia


Pinout 6pin sata is different with mine...mine is 65432 not 65423.what about molex pin??


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## jekipedia

Below is the official pin configuration for Enermax Platimax D.F 1200 Watt.


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## jekipedia

In case someone needed this *ENERMAX PLATIMAX D.F 1200Watt* Pin Configuration


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## Gabito

Hi guys, I am reading the notes for SeaSonic Platinum Series XP2 - P-660, P-760, P-860 by Big Elf and there is no "2 with bracket for double wire" does that mean we can skip the double wire thing and just do single wire for this model of PSU?


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## Kris Stoll

Hi everyone. I've been tearing my hair out trying to find the pinout of the PSU side of a Thermaltake Toughpower DPS G RGB 850W Gold PSU's 14+10 mainboard configuration. The only other PSU that seems to have a 14+10 to 24 pin is the Corsair AX series and it isn't the same as the Thermaltake. It seems that after making these PSU's they went with the far more common 18+10 to 24 pin connector. I can find the pinout for that all day long! But the 14+10 to 24 pin is quite difficult to track down! I picked up this PSU for a very good price but it did not come with the mainboard power connector. I didn't really sweat it as I figured I could simply enough find the pinout and just make my own... It has NOT been that east unfortunately Any help would be hugely appreciated! Thanks!


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## agilliam

Does anyone have the pinout for the MSI MPG A850GF? Cant seem to find it anywhere.


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