# AMD Bulldozer and Piledriver Overclocking Guide - Asus Motherboard



## ComputerRestore

_Overclock Time_









Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz.
M5A97 Users Please see the M5A97 Notes


Spoiler: RECOMMENDED SETTINGS




Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks)
CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
CPU/NB LLC - Auto
CPU Current Capability - 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
DRAM Current Capability 130%
Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
C1E - Disabled
SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
Core C6 State - Disabled
HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
Amp Master Mode - Disabled

****The power saving features should be disabled until you find your stable overclock. Then feel free to re-enable them to benefit from power savings*



_Read all the steps before proceeding_


In the BIOS, set the Recommended Settings. Then Save and Exit.
_Do not adjust the CPU Manual Voltage, or CPU Ratio yet._

Back in the BIOS, scroll to CPU Manual Voltage and Manually Set it to whatever value it shows for your CPU. _They all vary_

You need to find the Max OC you can get at the stock voltage so move to CPU Ratio and adjust it up.

_Most Piledriver CPUs will run an extra 400-500Mhz on Stock Voltages_
_Most Bulldozer CPUs will run an extra 700-800Mhz on Stock Voltages_

Exit and Save changes, and boot into your Operating System.

Load and run Prime95 Small FFT for 10 Minutes.
If no Cores Fail, then increase another point on the CPU Ratio and run Prime95 again.
If a Core Fails then increase the CPU Manual Voltage one point and run Prime95 again.
If your system Freezes or BSOD, then reduce you CPU Ratio by one point and run Prime95 again.
If your system Freezes or BSOD after increasing the CPU Ratio by one point then increase your CPU Manual Voltage by three points and run Prime95 again.

_(each run of Prime95 for this step will be 10 minutes on Small FFT's)_

When Overclocking, make sure to monitor temperatures. Once you have reached the thermal or voltage limits of your overclock (or just one you are happy with) Then it is time to run a full Prime test.

Full Prime Test = Custom Setting - using 75% of your ram for a minimum of 6-12 hours
_this is just what I recommend. If you are happy with 2 hours of prime, that's fine_

If your system fails the Prime test, then increase the CPU Manual Voltage by one point and re-test. Or, if it passes, then enjoy your faster running CPU.
Thermal and Voltage Limits for the CPU


Spoiler: Click



*Thermal Limits*
CPU Core - 62 Celsius
CPU Socket - 72 Celsius

*Voltage Limits*
- CPU Manual Voltage 1.55v


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## ComputerRestore

FSB & MISC Overclocking Section. (Sometimes offers fine tuning, but not required)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!




FSB Overclocking Recommended Ranges
FSB - 230 to 300**
**290 - 300+ may or may not work on your Motherboard








VDDA Voltage - 2.5 vto 2.65v - increasing this voltage will improve system performance when increasing the FSB
HTT/CPUNB Speeds - Linking these speeds when FSB Overclocking has shown performance increases. The suggested range is 2400-2500Mhz for both. (If possible, linking the DRAM speed in this range will also increase performance)
PCIe - Manually set to 100Mhz
Other than that, the settings for NB,HT Link, CPU, DRAM, will all be the same as when Multiplier Overclocking.



FSB OC - Things to Consider


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Because most things are affected by the FSB (Multi * FSB = Frequency) you need to take into consideration what will be effected.

CPU
HTT
CPU/NB
DRAM
So in simple terms, you just need to select the highest stable FSB speed that you can, which will give you your desired OC results.

Also, once you have your desired Overclock, within your safe voltage, you can also increase the FSB by 1 point at a time, until you have your max stable overclock.



Recommended FSB Ranges


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> FSB - 250
> DRAM - 2000Mhz
> CPU/NB - 2500Mhz
> HTT - 2500Mhz


Quote:


> FSB - 275
> DRAM - 2200Mhz
> CPU/NB - 2475Mhz
> HTT - 2475Mhz


Quote:


> FSB - 280
> DRAM - 1866Mhz
> CPU/NB - 2520Mhz
> HTT - 2520Mhz


Quote:


> FSB - 300
> DRAM - 2400Mhz
> CPU/NB - 2400Mhz
> HTT - 2400Mhz






FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Would you like to have great Multithreaded Performance as well as a lot better Single Core Performance?
Do you also like to save on hydro?

Well then this might interest you.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









With Turbo Enabled, increasing the FSB also increases the Turbo Frequency
With Offset Voltage Mode you can fully utilize C'n'C and APM Mode
I recommend to keep the offset voltages to Auto with the "+" using Ultra LLC on the CPU and Auto LLC on the CPU/NB.
If you are going for an extreme difference between stock frequency and Turbo frequency, then you should increase the CPU Offset Voltage to Compensate
_Example: 4.6Ghz with a Turbo of 5.6Ghz you might need an offset of +0.15v_

The higher you raise the FSB, the higher the Auto CPU and CPU/NB voltage will be set.
As you can see from my pictures, for my system the best FSB speed was 233. This allowed me to run my ram near my spec of 1866Mhz and also allows me to stay within my thermal limits when Turbo engages.

The actual turbo listed is not what it will go to. The Turbo listed is the highest level of Turbo - on an FX8350 that would be 4.2Ghz, so a Multiplier of 21. The normal turbo that will run all 8 cores is 4.1Ghz so a Multiplier of 20.5, which will let me run 4.776Ghz with a 233FSB.
Under a heavy load, the CPU will cycle between my set CPU Ratio and the Turbo Speed to run cooler. Or it will just stay at the set CPU Ratio - which is ~4.5Ghz

So using this method I will have a 17% increase in Single Threaded Performance and a 12.5% increase in Multithreaded Performance.
With the power saving features I idle at 68W. (Full System)
At full load 280W which is the same as a Manual 4.5Ghz Overclock.



UnOfficial Overclocking Method
Based on a Theory: Testing done by Mr-McRaven Link to Testing


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Recommended Settings
Quote:


> 1600Mhz Ram
> - FSB 240
> - CPU/NB 7x/8xMulti @ 1680Mhz/1920Mhz [0.9v-1.075]
> - Ram 6.66x Multi @ 1600Mhz [1.3v-1.5v]
> - HTT 11x Multi @ 2640Mhz


***Requires Fine Tuning with voltages.


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## philharmonik

Can I use this guide for the Sabertooth 990FX?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philharmonik*
> 
> Can I use this guide for the Sabertooth 990FX?


You sure can. I think that the Sabertooth has a couple more options for Sub Zero Overclocking that I don't have listed. But otherwise it's the same.


----------



## Darius Silver

Nice guide, though I seen on the ROG site that CPU and PCIe Spread Spectrum should be disabled. Unless I am misinterpreting something.

From the site:
Quote:


> CPU Spread Spectrum: Modulates the processor clock to reduce radiated noise emissions - disable for overclocking as clock modulation reduces logic sampling margins.
> 
> PCIe Spread Spectrum: Modulates the PCIe clock to reduce radiated noise emissions - disable for overclocking as clock modulation reduces logic sampling margins.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darius Silver*
> 
> Nice guide, though I seen on the ROG site that CPU and PCIe Spread Spectrum should be disabled. Unless I am misinterpreting something.
> 
> From the site:


Thanks for that.

I researched it a bit more and found you are exactly right about the Spread Spectrum.

The only reason to have it on is if you live in an area with high amounts of EMI.
The reason to have it disabled, is that while overclocking it can accidentially register a clock cycle as EMI, causing a BSOD or freeze.

I will update the guide.


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## Ashura

Hey, thanks for this guide!

I couldn't get any kind of stability at any voltage & clock whatsoever.
I restored optimized defaults & followed your steps and VIOLA! some stability








Now running 4.2GHz at stock voltage, which happens to be 1.3875v, & CPU/NB is set to 1.2v
Also note that I've set APM & CPU spread spectrum both on Auto.

Did a 10min OCCT run;


Is this graph okay?


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## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Hey, thanks for this guide!
> 
> I couldn't get any kind of stability at any voltage & clock whatsoever.
> I restored optimized defaults & followed your steps and VIOLA! some stability
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now running 4.2GHz at stock voltage, which happens to be 1.3875v, & CPU/NB is set to 1.2v
> Also note that I've set APM & CPU spread spectrum both on Auto.
> 
> Did a 10min OCCT run;
> 
> 
> Is this graph okay?


Nice, glad it's working for you.

For CPU Spread Spectrum, I had to do an update, because it can effect higher overclocks if it's enabled, so for that I'd recommend to Disable it.

Your graph does look a bit strange. From 1 minute to 5 minutes is the only time the CPU is at 100%, otherwise it's showing near 0% usage for the rest of the time.
If you are using Ultra LLC for the CPU and it's increasing the voltage above what you have set (as shown by the graph) then you can lower it to High LLC. It's best to have it compensate just enough so the voltage barely changes under load. If the voltage increases, then your LLC is set too high.

Also the way it's listing your CPU seems off. It seems to show that you have Turbo Enabled with a higher CPU Ratio set. If you have an Overclock set, with Turbo Enabled, then the CPU will run at 4.1Ghz under load, even if you have the CPU set higher (4.2Ghz)


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## Ashura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Your graph does look a bit strange. From 1 minute to 5 minutes is the only time the CPU is at 100%, otherwise it's showing near 0% usage for the rest of the time.


Actually, those are Idle periods. 1 min at start & 5 min at end. I thought those minutes would be excluded from the time I set








Quote:


> If you are using Ultra LLC for the CPU and it's increasing the voltage above what you have set (as shown by the graph) then you can lower it to High LLC. It's best to have it compensate just enough so the voltage barely changes under load. If the voltage increases, then your LLC is set too high.
> 
> Also the way it's listing your CPU seems off. It seems to show that you have Turbo Enabled with a higher CPU Ratio set. If you have an Overclock set, with Turbo Enabled, then the CPU will run at 4.1Ghz under load, even if you have the CPU set higher (4.2Ghz)


LLC is enabled. That's all I can do on my budget board.








Also, TurboCore is disabled.


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## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Actually, those are Idle periods. 1 min at start & 5 min at end. I thought those minutes would be excluded from the time I set


Ahhh, ok. I figured that's what was happening, just thought I'd verify.


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## Ashura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Ahhh, ok. I figured that's what was happening, just thought I'd verify.


so.... Are those minor voltage spikes normal?


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## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> so.... Are those minor voltage spikes normal?


They can be normal. But it's not something that you want to have for normal usage. Under load the CPU voltage will usually drop a little. Using the LLC function, you want a setting that will give you the same voltage as what is set in the BIOS. Ultra High is usually the setting that gets it as close as possible without Overvolting.

On your graph it looks like a difference of 0.025v which isn't a big deal. It maybe adds an extra 6W of heat energy to your Overclock. So if your next lowest LLC setting drops the voltage way below what you have set, then I'd say stay with what you are using.


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## navynuke499

ill have to give this a try and see how much more i can get out of my fx-6100. i haven't got it stable at 5GHz but i am so close.


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## TND2pointO

Following the steps in this guide (with the exception that I was running blend tests because I wasn't really paying attention) I have my Sabertooth 990FX R2 and FX8320 running at 4.2 ghz with "stock voltage".

VID is 1.375 and BIOS is set to 1.375 but it idles at 1.368 and bounces between 1.380 and 1.392 under load. If I set my LLC any lower then it drops below 1.368 under load. If I set LLC any higher then it will hit over 1.400 under load.

My temps were still slightly on the incline when I took this, but this is under load.


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## aHumanBeing

very well written and documented post for the FX line, Rep given.


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## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TND2pointO*
> 
> Following the steps in this guide (with the exception that I was running blend tests because I wasn't really paying attention) I have my Sabertooth 990FX R2 and FX8320 running at 4.2 ghz with "stock voltage".
> 
> VID is 1.375 and BIOS is set to 1.375 but it idles at 1.368 and bounces between 1.380 and 1.392 under load. If I set my LLC any lower then it drops below 1.368 under load. If I set LLC any higher then it will hit over 1.400 under load.
> 
> My temps were still slightly on the incline when I took this, but this is under load.


That's great. It looks like that H40 is really working, but still holding it's own. Does that HWinfo program show Core Temps as well? I believe the one listed in that screen shot is the CPU Socket Temp.
I'm also curious if your stock vCore @ 3.5Ghz is 1.375 with Turbo Disabled? That seems kind of high for an 8320. It could also be bouncing around if it's still set to Auto, instead of manually inputting the voltage after a restart.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aHumanBeing*
> 
> very well written and documented post for the FX line, Rep given.


Thank you very much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> ill have to give this a try and see how much more i can get out of my fx-6100. i haven't got it stable at 5GHz but i am so close.


Sabertooth, Custom Water, recipe for success









A couple notes:
If two cores within the same module fail during Prime95, that module may be limited in it's ability to Overclock further. Sometimes more voltage helps, but usually not.
If only a single core fails, then more voltage will fix it, but sometimes it takes too much extra voltage.

My CPU can almost run Prime95 Stable at 4.5Ghz with only 1.325v, but Core 8 will fail. I need 1.3625v to keep Core 8 happy. The amount keeps increasing the higher I go. I'd need to disable Module 4 (cores 7-8) to hit 5.0Ghz stable.

**Not all the CPU's have that issue, or as severe.


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## navynuke499

i am interested to see the FSB section added to this. ive seen many others pushing into the 230s and 240s with no issues but i cant get mine stable past 213


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## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> i am interested to see the FSB section added to this. ive seen many others pushing into the 230s and 240s with no issues but i cant get mine stable past 213


That's kind of why I'm nervous to create the FSB section. There's more variables that cause issues (headaches).
For instance, some motherboards have FSB dead zones.

For example, from 211-229 on Model A Motherboard might cause Hardware Errors when stressing, or random BSOD's etc.
There's also the whole issue of on some Motherboards, when you increase the FSB, you have to manually set the PCIe Clock to 100 or it might fail to boot.

On the M5A99FX PRO 2.0 I've pushed my FSB into the 300's, but there wasn't any noticeable performance gains. Some days it would be flaky, and some days it would work ok.
Around 250 is a nice point so I can Overclock my DRAM to 2000Mhz using the 8x Divider (1600Mhz)

Maybe I'll just do a very general/quick guide, and hopefully add info as the issues come up.


----------



## TND2pointO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That's great. It looks like that H40 is really working, but still holding it's own. Does that HWinfo program show Core Temps as well? I believe the one listed in that screen shot is the CPU Socket Temp.


Yes, the green one is socket right below it the CPU 0 is core temp - matches the core temp values, e.g., 15.3*C at idle. I think what I like most about HWiNFO64 is being able to graph any value with 2 clicks, and if you hit save it will remember the graphs you had open and where. The only thing I don't like about its graphs is that is does not remember your upper and lower bounds on y for the graph on exit/restart.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I'm also curious if your stock vCore @ 3.5Ghz is 1.375 with Turbo Disabled? That seems kind of high for an 8320.


It sure is stock non-turbo at 1.375 according to both CoreTemps VID and HWiNFO64's VID readings, and that is what the BIOS calls out as default. VCore would go to like 1.41v under turbo when I got it and LLC was on auto, but last time I actually had turbo enabled I was not paying attention to VID so I don't know what its Turbo VID is for sure. I undervolted it for a while and was "desktop stable" going 4.2 @ between 1.25 - 1.30v, I didn't record my settings but I remember it rebooted on me somewhere under 1.25 while playing D3. I have not tried to undervolt it again, I figured I would try to go the other direction and see how high I can go without using more volts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> It could also be bouncing around if it's still set to Auto, instead of manually inputting the voltage after a restart.


Voltage was manually input after disabling turbo and reading VID, VCore was set to auto when I booted with turbo disabled to read VID. I have my VCore, Multiplier, and FSB set manually, all other CPU options are Auto. LLC is set to CPU:Ultra High and NB:High; all others auto or disabled.


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## ComputerRestore

@ TND2pointO

Wow, that VID....well at least you are making good progress with it. Maybe it's a Golden 8320


----------



## bios_R_us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I'm also curious if your stock vCore @ 3.5Ghz is 1.375 with Turbo Disabled? That seems kind of high for an 8320. It could also be bouncing around if it's still set to Auto, instead of manually inputting the voltage after a restart.


I've had two 8320s, one had 1.4v / 1.425v (turbo off/on) and the other had 1.3875v / 1.425v (turbo off/on) so 1.375v would be fine considering this sad experience  Then again, I get all the bad chips I would say. Reading how you've said that MOST VIshera chips will do 400-500 MHz with stock volts, my 8350 will do 4.2 with stock volts :-( that's just barely the turbo speed. And it takes 1.456v to be stable at 4.5, which already reaches my temp limits. Undervolting it isn't really great either, it isn't stable at 4 GHz with anything less than 1.325v under load...

I lost the chip lottery three times in a row with Vishera..

I don't think it's the board that's keeping me back THAT much since other people seem to do very good with the UD3...


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bios_R_us*
> 
> I've had two 8320s, one had 1.4v / 1.425v (turbo off/on) and the other had 1.3875v / 1.425v (turbo off/on) so 1.375v would be fine considering this sad experience  Then again, I get all the bad chips I would say. Reading how you've said that MOST VIshera chips will do 400-500 MHz with stock volts, my 8350 will do 4.2 with stock volts :-( that's just barely the turbo speed. And it takes 1.456v to be stable at 4.5, which already reaches my temp limits. Undervolting it isn't really great either, it isn't stable at 4 GHz with anything less than 1.325v under load...
> 
> I lost the chip lottery three times in a row with Vishera..
> 
> I don't think it's the board that's keeping me back THAT much since other people seem to do very good with the UD3...


That is some really bad luck. Hopefully it's not due to the motherboad. What is the exact model, and version? The budget Gigabytes that are doing good are the 990FX UD3 Revision 1.1 or newer with LLC. It seems like either your board has some major vDroop, or it's a re-branded 890 chipset that wasn't updated to handle more than 110A on the CPU. Feel free to PM me, I'll see if I can help at all.


----------



## bios_R_us

It's the 990fxa-UD3 rev1.2 and the volts are rather stable (1.375v for example, with LLC on auto, ranges from 1.36 to 1.392 under load). I've got 4.5 stable at 1.4v and Ultra High LLC (goes up to 1.456v under load) but temps go above 62c if i don't "chill" my room. I've only stressed it with 20 IBT runs on custom - 6144mb ram and about 1h of P95 blend.

I'm trying for 1.375v and Ultra High LLC on 4400 right now, IBT was fine, P95 is at it for 70 mins so far, volts would peak at 1.424v for the first hour but have reached 1.440v now .. and temps were getting a bit over 62c on the cores so I opened the window .... if I try anything lower on the LLC it fails....


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## Chrisoldinho

How does lowering the VDDA voltage lower temps? I have set it to 2.2 at 4.7 but see very little difference, probably outweighed by the ambient temp changes are a result of running OCCT


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> How does lowering the VDDA voltage lower temps? I have set it to 2.2 at 4.7 but see very little difference, probably outweighed by the ambient temp changes are a result of running OCCT


It's only a couple degrees, but it's something.

I don't know if it's only on my board either, but lowering the VDDA for me, makes my voltages very steady as well. If I set 1.425 in the BIOS with Ultra LLC, under load it will go to 1.416v and wont change. If I use 2.5v or higher, then it will fluctuate a little between 1.416v and 1.425v under load.

I should also update my guide, that if you are using the FSB to Overclock, then you shouldn't lower the VDDA.


----------



## ComputerRestore

I updated the Guide with FSB info. It's pretty General but I hope it helps.

I also created a small guide on using Turbo mode with the FSB to get better Single Threaded Performance while staying within your thermal and power limits.


----------



## aHumanBeing

Bah....instability (hardware initialization failure I think? it was a few nights ago) within 10 mins using prime95 at 4.0 and 4.2ghz. Turned off cpu and pcie spread spectrum, tried it again and got "illegal sumout" I'm doubting that my chip will be a very good overclocker given that it failed even at 4.0ghz. Which is even more pathetic since I disabled all the power saving features it runs at 3.9ghz all the time it seems 4.0 wouldn't be hard.


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## aHumanBeing

hmm if I actually follow the guide it works! lol, I neglected to adjust the digi+vrm section and now that I have i've gotten it working at 4.0ghz, once that runs for a while i'll move on


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aHumanBeing*
> 
> hmm if I actually follow the guide it works! lol, I neglected to adjust the digi+vrm section and now that I have i've gotten it working at 4.0ghz, once that runs for a while i'll move on


Yes, the settings in the Digi+ section are very important. Once it's all set, it's pretty much just a matter of increasing the frequency and adding a bit more voltage.
Can't wait to see how much you can push that Bulldozer.


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## BillyBonz

I just want to say thank you for all the tips!!!! I has given me the strength to loose my fear and graduate from the kiddie pool. I will be trying this on my Fx 8150, paired with the Sabertooth R1 with the latest Bios.


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## BillyBonz

So far I have played it with the preset options in my MB and tweaked.


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## aHumanBeing

been running at 4.3 for about half an hour or [email protected] 1.331250v but it's starting to get kinda toasty, 53*c was about all I felt like watching in prime95. I suppose i'll sit at 4.3 for a day or so and see how it does.


----------



## aHumanBeing

do you think turning CPU Power Phase Control down to standard would help get temps back in line?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> I just want to say thank you for all the tips!!!! I has given me the strength to loose my fear and graduate from the kiddie pool. I will be trying this on my Fx 8150, paired with the Sabertooth R1 with the latest Bios.


Very welcome. They're a lot of fun to overclock, so it would be a shame to not push it.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aHumanBeing*
> 
> been running at 4.3 for about half an hour or [email protected] 1.331250v but it's starting to get kinda toasty, 53*c was about all I felt like watching in prime95. I suppose i'll sit at 4.3 for a day or so and see how it does.


53C is not that warm, especially on Prime95. Unless you run programs that will fully stress all the cores ([email protected] etc) you will never see those temps in daily use.

The max Core temp is 62 Celsius, and 70 Celsius for Socket.

If you are able to increase the frequency more without an increase in voltage, you will see minimal temperature increases. I'd say you have a lot of headroom left for overclocking.


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## ChrisB17

Forgot to post. But I used this guide for helping me OC my chip. I needed the help because it was so different from Intel Ivy bridge (boring). Great guide. Helped me


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## raisethe3

I don't have any of these CPUs but great guide!


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## AccellGarage

So Crosshair V Formula can hit FSB 300Mhz


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## computerfreak09

This was exactly what I was looking for - a guide to OC with the ASUS motherboard I have with my FX-8320.

Thanks man!


----------



## computerfreak09

I'm sorry for this double post, but this thread needs a damn bump because it's so helpful! I don't want it to be gone - and I'm sure there are others looking for this type of guide.

Anyway, I've gotten my FX-8320 OC'ed to 4.3Ghz and that's my limit, because if I try to go to 4.5Ghz, my temps get too hot (exactly to the max temps) due to me having to add more voltage.







But still! 4.3Ghz is an achievement to me


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *computerfreak09*
> 
> I'm sorry for this double post, but this thread needs a damn bump because it's so helpful! I don't want it to be gone - and I'm sure there are others looking for this type of guide.
> 
> Anyway, I've gotten my FX-8320 OC'ed to 4.3Ghz and that's my limit, because if I try to go to 4.5Ghz, my temps get too hot (exactly to the max temps) due to me having to add more voltage.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But still! 4.3Ghz is an achievement to me


Hard to complain about an extra 800Mhz







Nice work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AccellGarage*
> 
> So Crosshair V Formula can hit FSB 300Mhz


I wonder if that is the limit for this chipset. I haven't been able to get past 300 with any kind of stability. None of the voltages I've adjusted help it get any higher. Only CPU VDDA seems to keep it stable, but wont extend the range.


----------



## Demonkev666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hard to complain about an extra 800Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work.
> I wonder if that is the limit for this chipset. I haven't been able to get past 300 with any kind of stability. None of the voltages I've adjusted help it get any higher. Only CPU VDDA seems to keep it stable, but wont extend the range.


Have you loosened your trfc? on your memory ?

try 300ns


----------



## navynuke499

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hard to complain about an extra 800Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work.
> I wonder if that is the limit for this chipset. I haven't been able to get past 300 with any kind of stability. None of the voltages I've adjusted help it get any higher. Only CPU VDDA seems to keep it stable, but wont extend the range.


i may be wrong, but i thought i saw somewhere that 300 is the limit, at least on the asus boards it is.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> i may be wrong, but i thought i saw somewhere that 300 is the limit, at least on the asus boards it is.


Not that I've seen. I can dial in 600 if it would POST.
There was one CHV-Z that got into 320's.

Personally I like 250ish anyways.


----------



## computerfreak09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hard to complain about an extra 800Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice work.


Definitely not complaining







I can tell from benchmarks that my CPU is actually quite faster - this should be good when I'm rendering videos. And thank you







! If it wasn't for this guide, I would probably be lost.


----------



## Zamoldac

I've just made the switch to Piledriver - 8350 and i'm using the 990FX Sabertooth motherboard everything runs fine (updated to latest bios) BUT when i open thermal radar the header of the menu says P67 Sabertooth instead of 990FX, also the displayed PCB is the P67 one.

Any ideas on how to fix this guys?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zamoldac*
> 
> I've just made the switch to Piledriver - 8350 and i'm using the 990FX Sabertooth motherboard everything runs fine (updated to latest bios) BUT when i open thermal radar the header of the menu says P67 Sabertooth instead of 990FX, also the displayed PCB is the P67 one.
> 
> Any ideas on how to fix this guys?


Sorry, I am not familiar with the Sabertooth software. But if you are getting the Printed Circuit Board display and title of the P67 Mobo, maybe try downloading the most recent version of that software from the Asus website and re-install. Maybe the wrong version was loaded to the Driver CD?


----------



## Zamoldac

I've tried that with no result (also updated the bios with no effect), will try to install the thermalradar of the non R2.0 version also, maybe that will work.

LE: Cleaned everything up again an re-installed and this time everything worked ok!


----------



## tribal599

I would like to thank you for your comprehensive overclocking guide. Here is my list:
Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0
FX 8350
8GB 1866 Corsair Vengeance 9-10-9-27
128GB Corsair SSD
Thermaltake Water Pro 2.0
Antec 850w PSU

I followed your guide settings to the letter. I started my overclock at 4500, ran Prime 95 small FTT for ten minutes, all good. I'm adjusting the ratio higher and adding voltage when I reached 4800 with almost the voltage maxed out at 1.54. Run small FTT and it passes. Now it's time to run the full custom prime test and within a couple of minutes the core fails either to error or hardware (can't remember which cores failed). Clocked it down 4700 the same failure. When it was at 4500 at 1.47 v it passes running Prime 95 for two hours for stable OC. I tried going to 4600 with 1.5 v but no luck there either. In all my testing my temps were good and I noticed in CPU Z and running Prime 95 my clock ratio would dip back and forth from lets say x22.5 to x7 once in awhile even when stable. Can you advise me what to do in settings to get more OC or do I have to be happy with what I got? Thanks.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*
> 
> I would like to thank you for your comprehensive overclocking guide. Here is my list:
> Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0
> FX 8350
> 8GB 1866 Corsair Vengeance 9-10-9-27
> 128GB Corsair SSD
> Thermaltake Water Pro 2.0
> Antec 850w PSU
> 
> I followed your guide settings to the letter. I started my overclock at 4500, ran Prime 95 small FTT for ten minutes, all good. I'm adjusting the ratio higher and adding voltage when I reached 4800 with almost the voltage maxed out at 1.54. Run small FTT and it passes. Now it's time to run the full custom prime test and within a couple of minutes the core fails either to error or hardware (can't remember which cores failed). Clocked it down 4700 the same failure. When it was at 4500 at 1.47 v it passes running Prime 95 for two hours for stable OC. I tried going to 4600 with 1.5 v but no luck there either. In all my testing my temps were good and I noticed in CPU Z and running Prime 95 my clock ratio would dip back and forth from lets say x22.5 to x7 once in awhile even when stable. Can you advise me what to do in settings to get more OC or do I have to be happy with what I got? Thanks.


It sounds like your VRMs might be getting too warm. I'd recommend to install the stock CPU Cooler fan over top of the VRM heatsink with it blowing down over the heatsink. You should be able to use some double sided tape to stick the fan to the side of that Water Pro block. Position it so it will sit in the center of the heatsink.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> It sounds like your VRMs might be getting too warm. I'd recommend to install the stock CPU Cooler fan over top of the VRM heatsink with it blowing down over the heatsink. You should be able to use some double sided tape to stick the fan to the side of that Water Pro block. Position it so it will sit in the center of the heatsink.


'm sorry...where is the VRM heatsink located. i believe we have the same board. Thanks.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*
> 
> 'm sorry...where is the VRM heatsink located. i believe we have the same board. Thanks.


Looking down at the board it is the heat sink to the left of the CPU.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Looking down at the board it is the heat sink to the left of the CPU.


I guess I'm screwed...the Thermaltake liquid cooler has two fans connected to the radiator. It covers the heatsink.


----------



## tribal599

This is the message I got from the results text document running Prime95...six minutes into it;
ERROR: ILLEGAL SUMOUT
Possible hardware failure, consult readme.txt file, restarting test.

On Thread 7 it said "No errors 100 warnings. Worker stopped" and its the message above.
Will this thread resume after a couple of minutes or once this happens its failed?

I forgot to mention on my other post that I'm running Win 8 Pro 64bit.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*
> 
> This is the message I got from the results text document running Prime95...six minutes into it;
> ERROR: ILLEGAL SUMOUT
> Possible hardware failure, consult readme.txt file, restarting test.
> 
> On Thread 7 it said "No errors 100 warnings. Worker stopped" and its the message above.
> Will this thread resume after a couple of minutes or once this happens its failed?
> 
> I forgot to mention on my other post that I'm running Win 8 Pro 64bit.


Once that error happens, then it failed. It means that Core isn't returning the results that Prime expected, so it's unstable.

Things to try:
Increase the CPU/NB voltage a bit more. 1.3v-1.35v
Lower your memory settings. If you're running 1866Mhz, lower it to 1600Mhz
Still try and fit a fan on or near the VRM heatsink. As long as your getting airflow near it, it will help.


----------



## mavisky

Tribal, depending on your case you may be able to help by relocating one of the fans to the back of the case. I run my Haf XB like this now. If I hadn't done this then the sink would have been completely covered so this has to be helping to some degree.


----------



## vSpooKy

Spent alot of time trying to get my 8350 at 4.5Ghz when running prime95 4 of my cores would stop and would fail, able to get it to 4.3 with no problem.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Tribal, depending on your case you may be able to help by relocating one of the fans to the back of the case. I run my Haf XB like this now. If I hadn't done this then the sink would have been completely covered so this has to be helping to some degree.


My Antec case has two 120mm exhaust fans on top and the left one happens to be on top of the heatsink. I could take the left fan and turn it around.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Once that error happens, then it failed. It means that Core isn't returning the results that Prime expected, so it's unstable.
> 
> Things to try:
> Increase the CPU/NB voltage a bit more. 1.3v-1.35v
> Lower your memory settings. If you're running 1866Mhz, lower it to 1600Mhz
> Still try and fit a fan on or near the VRM heatsink. As long as your getting airflow near it, it will help.


Thanks I will try it. Also last night I ran IntelBurntest or something to that effect lol. Ran it for ten passes on high and it passed but in Prime I failed on 4.6Ghz


----------



## navynuke499

well i used this to help push every last little bit out for multithreaded mayhem last month. here was my best result.


----------



## Chrisoldinho

CnQ - Disabled by CPU setting, does this mean the cores will no longer down clock when not under load as well as when under load? If so does this effectively increase power consumption as you are always running the CPU at a higher multiplier?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*
> 
> My Antec case has two 120mm exhaust fans on top and the left one happens to be on top of the heatsink. I could take the left fan and turn it around.


That could work. It doesn't look like it will interfere with the Water Cooler.

Also, are you running two different sets of Ram? That could be why you can pass Small FFT (Little Ram used) but not the Blend Test.

IBT can still pass, with incorrect results, but Prime will do error checking.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisoldinho*
> 
> CnQ - Disabled by CPU setting, does this mean the cores will no longer down clock when not under load as well as when under load? If so does this effectively increase power consumption as you are always running the CPU at a higher multiplier?


Disabled by CPU is meant to turn off CnQ when the CPU is under load. It should still down clock when at idle.
I usually switch it to Always Enabled after I find my stable overclock, that way if it starts to throttle when stress testing, it wont be because of CnQ.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *navynuke499*
> 
> well i used this to help push every last little bit out for multithreaded mayhem last month. here was my best result.


Wow nice work. That is a really nice 6100. Since the 6 cores are poor 8 core samples, so they lazer off the bad core, you usually don't find a 6 that can do 5Ghz+. You usually have to take a good 8 core and disable the weakest module.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That could work. It doesn't look like it will interfere with the Water Cooler.
> 
> Also, are you running two different sets of Ram? That could be why you can pass Small FFT (Little Ram used) but not the Blend Test.
> 
> IBT can still pass, with incorrect results, but Prime will do error checking.
> Disabled by CPU is meant to turn off CnQ when the CPU is under load. It should still down clock when at idle.
> I usually switch it to Always Enabled after I find my stable overclock, that way if it starts to throttle when stress testing, it wont be because of CnQ.
> Wow nice work. That is a really nice 6100. Since the 6 cores are poor 8 core samples, so they lazer off the bad core, you usually don't find a 6 that can do 5Ghz+. You usually have to take a good 8 core and disable the weakest module.


It's the same Ram just different color same timings. This pic is a week old but now I'm back to 8GB, The blue one was causing crashes, memory dump. Did a Memtest and sure enough it found errors. But all my OC and testing were done w/8GB


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*
> 
> It's the same Ram just different color same timings. This pic is a week old but now I'm back to 8GB, The blue one was causing crashes, memory dump. Did a Memtest and sure enough it found errors. But all my OC and testing were done w/8GB


Oh ok, and you are using 27.7 or newer version of Prime95?


----------



## tribal599

I used Prime 95 27.7 for 64 bit Win 8 but it said for AMD Bulldozer on top. I did what you asked...lower my ram timings and increase the CPU/NB voltage but unfortunately it failed at 4600GHz and tried OCCT 4.3.2 for good measure and it failed also in the same amount of time lol. The only thing that helped was my multiplier was stable x23 without fluctuating to x7. I guess that was due to the fan I had pointed down to the VRM heatsink. Well i would have to be happy with a 4500GHz stable overclock. Can't think of anything else


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*
> 
> I used Prime 95 27.7 for 64 bit Win 8 but it said for AMD Bulldozer on top. I did what you asked...lower my ram timings and increase the CPU/NB voltage but unfortunately it failed at 4600GHz and tried OCCT 4.3.2 for good measure and it failed also in the same amount of time lol. The only thing that helped was my multiplier was stable x23 without fluctuating to x7. I guess that was due to the fan I had pointed down to the VRM heatsink. Well i would have to be happy with a 4500GHz stable overclock. Can't think of anything else


Glad to know that the fan on the VRM is helping with throttling.
If you are up to it, feel free to post, the graphed data from OCCT, for when it fails. Please just put it in a Spoiler Tag, because there are a lot of pics. It might bring some more insight to why it is failing.

In my signature there is also a link to the Piledriver Module/Core Failure Thread. You might want to go through some of that testing to see if your CPU is just defective. I created that thread because of my first Piledriver CPU, and AMD RMA'd it no problem.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Glad to know that the fan on the VRM is helping with throttling.
> If you are up to it, feel free to post, the graphed data from OCCT, for when it fails. Please just put it in a Spoiler Tag, because there are a lot of pics. It might bring some more insight to why it is failing.
> 
> In my signature there is also a link to the Piledriver Module/Core Failure Thread. You might want to go through some of that testing to see if your CPU is just defective. I created that thread because of my first Piledriver CPU, and AMD RMA'd it no problem.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*


i have 24 items that were taken when it failed. Anyone in particular?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*
> 
> i have 24 items that were taken when it failed. Anyone in particular?


It's best if you post them all, to get the full picture of what's happening.


----------



## tribal599

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> It's best if you post them all, to get the full picture of what's happening.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265548/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265549/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265551/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265553/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265553/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265553/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265553/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265557/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265558/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265559/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265560/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265561/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265561/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265562/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265570/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265574/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265575/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265576/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265577/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265578/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265579/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265580/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265581/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





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http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265583/width/240/height/240/flags/LM





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.overclock.net/image/id/4265584/width/240/height/240/flags/LM


----------



## TND2pointO

Congrats on 14 GHz!


----------



## Majorhi

Nice thread! Answered some things in here I wasn't sure of when I was mucking about.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tribal599*




It looks like it went unstable because the socket temps got too high. *76C*

Try taking the back panel off, and have a fan flow onto the back of the motherboard around the socket area. See if that helps with stability.

Sometimes the socket temp is high because the CPU cooler isn't seated properly, but your Core Temp is ok for your Overclock settings, so I'd say it's only due to airflow.


----------



## Krusher33

Thanks for the 5.0 ghz settings.

I just jumped right to that, and started off at 1.48v. It booted fine but crashed in IBT (AVX) after 4 passes.

Bumped up voltage a couple of times, and it crashed after 12 passes.

Bumped voltage a couple more times, and it passed IBT 20 passes but crashed halfway through Heaven.

Bumped up a couple more times and it survived during Heaven benchmark. But when I saved scores and closed Heaven, it crashed.

Bumped up voltage a couple more, started up my GPU folding to see if it improved some. It's back to where it was when I had the Thuban at 4ghz. But after about 30 minutes the driver crashed.

Bumped to 1.55v and it folded fine all night. Can't wait to get home and try Prime to see how the temps are at full load.

Batch # 1236.


----------



## Krusher33

I'm running Prime, Large FTT's, 11 passes for 7 of the cores. 1 of the cores is lagging behind at 7.









But the good news is at 1.55v, it hasn't peaked over 60c yet. Ambient is 19c.

Spoke too soon. The next set of tests it jumped to 66c.


----------



## electech13

The mobo used by the op in this thread is the one I'm considering switching to. I currently have the GA-990FX-UD3. This is with an FX-8350. There appears to be a few more specific oc options in the bios and more vrm power controls with the Digi+ and all that making me think I should make the switch. I have always liked Asus but Gigabyte has been fine for me too and the past few GA mobo's i've had have been just fine. This one seem to be pretty good from what I've read and many seem to prefer it too...but I'm having a few issues right now that I can't figure out.

Firstly I want to oc my chip to 4.5-5Ghz. I have the Corsair H100 cooler and thus far temps have not been even close to an issue at all for any oc i've done up to 5Ghz and over 1.55v...which has been surprising...but very good of course. (never go above 51 and typically in the 41-45 range at full load up to 4.8GHZ)

The voltages were running higher then I wanted though and i just found out that was due to my LLC level being at "extreme". I didn't think it made that much of a difference but apparently it did although most recommend using it and on it's higher levels...even here.. outside of that I'm seeing a lot of fluctuating voltages when under load...and recently noticed some sort of apparent throttling as well. I have all the control features OFF (C&Q, CE1, C6, Turbo, etc).. LLC can be at regular or high..I can have voltages at auto or manual to any level.. my temps are beautifully low yet when under FULL load the core clock drops down to 3.5 or 2.5GHz for just a split second here and there repeatedly at whatever oc i'm at and I can't figure it out.
Any ideas? is this the mobo...or chip? other settings I should try? However I must admit, after tinkering around I'm pretty much stable at any clock I want up to around 4.85Ghz with good temps..but don't like the things I'm seeing and assume this could be an issue and hamper running at 5Ghz steady.

And that leads to the mobo itself.. should I opt for the Asus M5A99FX Pro R2 (or even the Crosshair V) instead?.. what is the key differences with the Crosshair over the M5A anyways?...but mainly I'm looking at what I should do about this situation and possibly comparison or switch between the GA-990FXA-UD3/M5A99FX Pro.

THanks


----------



## Krusher33

If you're wanting to go over 4.5ghz, don't get the M5A's... they have a voltage protection and it throttles when you get to a certain voltage or temperature. Pretty annoying. If you're going ASUS, get the Crosshair or Sabertooth. I picked the Sabertooth over Crosshair because of the more fan connectors and overkill temperature readings all over the board. I can't remember what the Crosshair has that Sabertooth doesn't.


----------



## mavisky

I'm a big fan of my M5A99fx Pro R2.0. I'm running an FX-4170 and the boards auto overclock features will spin it up to 4.7ish GHZ all on it's own with auto-tuning and run stable as can bet at this rate with just an H80 cooling it off. Although it is giving me weird options for my ram settings. Not sure what's causing that.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> If you're wanting to go over 4.5ghz, don't get the M5A's... they have a voltage protection and it throttles when you get to a certain voltage or temperature. Pretty annoying. If you're going ASUS, get the Crosshair or Sabertooth. I picked the Sabertooth over Crosshair because of the more fan connectors and overkill temperature readings all over the board. I can't remember what the Crosshair has that Sabertooth doesn't.


Yeah I found that out last night. I was able to safely get up to 4.6 and bench it stable. But anything over that even with voltage bumps all the way up to 1.48 a core would fail. But not all is lost. I actually went the multi OC route this time to reach 4.5 24/7 stability. Since last May I had only used the FSB to get up to 4.5 to run 24/7. So I reach the 4.5 at 1.37, 1866 Mem, and 2400 CPU/NB 2600 HT. Good enough for me.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> If you're wanting to go over 4.5ghz, don't get the M5A's... they have a voltage protection and it throttles when you get to a certain voltage or temperature. Pretty annoying. If you're going ASUS, get the Crosshair or Sabertooth. I picked the Sabertooth over Crosshair because of the more fan connectors and overkill temperature readings all over the board. I can't remember what the Crosshair has that Sabertooth doesn't.


Yes, the M5A boards are a lot more work. To reach 4.7ghz on mine, I installed a 60mm fan on top of the VRM heatsink. I also cut a hole in the back panel for a 120mm fan to blow air directly at the CPU socket. The CPU socket which is directly linked to the VRM's doesn't like to run over 70 Celsius, or you see throttling and instability.

Cost wise, I would have chosen the Evo 2.0 over the Pro 2.0. They Evo has the same power delivery system, for much less. As I wasn't running SLI or Crossfire I didn't need the 16x 16x PCIe lanes compared to 16x 8x, not that it would make a huge difference.

The Sabertooth has superior cooling in that regard. For the most part it will keep the Core and Socket temps almost equal, during stress testing, so if you will be fine unless your CPU is running too hot.

The advantage of the Crosshair V Formula is the Extreme Digi engine for power delivery.
The advantage of the Crosshair V Formula-Z is the Extreme Digi II engine for power delivery.


----------



## aHumanBeing

My VRM's ended up getting way too hot (touch them and burn finger hot), so I took off my pusher fan to let the VRM's get some more air since they were covered. Those little suckers really need a built in fan so I suppose that reversing one of my top 240's will be the solution (like someone else did.)


----------



## electech13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Yes, the M5A boards are a lot more work. To reach 4.7ghz on mine, I installed a 60mm fan on top of the VRM heatsink. I also cut a hole in the back panel for a 120mm fan to blow air directly at the CPU socket. The CPU socket which is directly linked to the VRM's doesn't like to run over 70 Celsius, or you see throttling and instability.
> 
> Cost wise, I would have chosen the Evo 2.0 over the Pro 2.0. They Evo has the same power delivery system, for much less. As I wasn't running SLI or Crossfire I didn't need the 16x 16x PCIe lanes compared to 16x 8x, not that it would make a huge difference.
> 
> The Sabertooth has superior cooling in that regard. For the most part it will keep the Core and Socket temps almost equal, during stress testing, so if you will be fine unless your CPU is running too hot.
> 
> The advantage of the Crosshair V Formula is the Extreme Digi engine for power delivery.
> The advantage of the Crosshair V Formula-Z is the Extreme Digi II engine for power delivery.


Thanks for the info..just the kind of stuff I'm looking for.

I'm not running SLI or CF at all and gaming not really of importance so just one main pcie x16 is needed..with that being said is that the only difference between the M5A PRO and the Evo?

And those boards require more work to get above 4.6Ghz u say and need fans on the vrm?...so if I can oc to 4.85Ghz easily and stable on my GA-UD3 then switch to either if those two might be useless u think? (There is some sort of minor throttle happening but someone gave me bios tweak that I believe has solved that).
I just think the Bios in ALL those Asus and above are better, no? More oc options and better vrm and important to have specific digi+ power controls don't u think?

So basically if I am gonna switch then I should go to at least the Sabbertooth or Crosshair I take it? And is the Extreme Digi to Extreme Digi II power controls the only difference from the Crosshair and Crosshair-Z?

Thanks for your help and info!


----------



## mavisky

Testing mine right now. Turbo V Evo shows 200 cpu bus frequency and a 23.5 cpu ratio for 4.7ghz but while running Prime 95 CPU-Z is showing me 214.3 cpu bus and 23.5 ratio for a total of 5.037ghz. Which do i believe here?

Misspelled while on the crapper via my Droid Razr


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Thanks for the info..just the kind of stuff I'm looking for.
> 
> I'm not running SLI or CF at all and gaming not really of importance so just one main pcie x16 is needed..with that being said is that the only difference between the M5A PRO and the Evo?
> 
> And those boards require more work to get above 4.6Ghz u say and need fans on the vrm?...so if I can oc to 4.85Ghz easily and stable on my GA-UD3 then switch to either if those two might be useless u think? (There is some sort of minor throttle happening but someone gave me bios tweak that I believe has solved that).
> I just think the Bios in ALL those Asus and above are better, no? More oc options and better vrm and important to have specific digi+ power controls don't u think?
> 
> So basically if I am gonna switch then I should go to at least the Sabbertooth or Crosshair I take it? And is the Extreme Digi to Extreme Digi II power controls the only difference from the Crosshair and Crosshair-Z?
> 
> Thanks for your help and info!


If you are stable on your UD3 (IBT Max Settings 10 Runs, or a couple hours of Prime95) at 4.85Ghz then I wouldn't recommend changing Boards.
Although the Asus BIOS is simple to use and has more refined settings, the 990FX-;UD3 has 8+2 Power Phase control, which is better than the Evo/Pro 6+2+2 Power Phase, without extra fans on the coolers.

You would only get better results from a Sabertooth,Crosshair, 990FX UD7 and ASrock 990FX Extreme9

There are some other slight differences between the CHVF CHVF-Z which you can read here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Testing mine right now. Turbo V Evo shows 200 cpu bus frequency and a 23.5 cpu ratio for 4.7ghz but while running Prime 95 CPU-Z is showing me 214.3 cpu bus and 23.5 ratio for a total of 5.037ghz. Which do i believe here?
> 
> Misspelled while on the crapper via my Droid Razr


Sorry, I only ever use the BIOS for Overclocking. I'm not sure which one you should trust. Although I've never had a wrong reading from CPU-Z.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mavisky*
> 
> Testing mine right now. Turbo V Evo shows 200 cpu bus frequency and a 23.5 cpu ratio for 4.7ghz but while running Prime 95 CPU-Z is showing me 214.3 cpu bus and 23.5 ratio for a total of 5.037ghz. Which do i believe here?
> 
> Misspelled while on the crapper via my Droid Razr


If you did not touch any settings in the BIOS then it should be 200 bus. If you did some overclocking... then what did you adjust?


----------



## mavisky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> If you did not touch any settings in the BIOS then it should be 200 bus. If you did some overclocking... then what did you adjust?


Bus is set to 200 in the bios, and still set at 200 in Turbo V Evo within the Asus Suite. Just caught me off guard that CPU-Z was showing something different. I'll have to get a screen shot so everyone can see what it is I'm talking about.


----------



## Krusher33

Are you using the latest CPUz?


----------



## mavisky

Seems to be working right now. Not sure what was up with it earlier.

Misspelled while on the crapper via my Droid Razr


----------



## riggnix

Great guide!

Getting my FX-8350 any day now, can't wait to push it to the limits on my Sabertooth 990FX









So basically your guide is saying, the results are pretty much just bound to temperature (like on Phenom II)?
Great. Thermalright Ultra-120 Black on top of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra (liquid metal) with 2x Scythe GentleTyphoon 5400 is waiting


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riggnix*
> 
> Great guide!
> 
> Getting my FX-8350 any day now, can't wait to push it to the limits on my Sabertooth 990FX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So basically your guide is saying, the results are pretty much just bound to temperature (like on Phenom II)?
> Great. Thermalright Ultra-120 Black on top of Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra (liquid metal) with 2x Scythe GentleTyphoon 5400 is waiting


Looking forward to your results.

Yeah, once you have all the base settings dialed in, it's just a matter of increasing the CPU Multi and CPU Voltage until your temps are out of control.
It's much easier than Phenom II because you don't have to even touch the NB Speeds in order to help with stability/increase OC.


----------



## riggnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Looking forward to your results.
> 
> Yeah, once you have all the base settings dialed in, it's just a matter of increasing the CPU Multi and CPU Voltage until your temps are out of control.
> It's much easier than Phenom II because you don't have to even touch the NB Speeds in order to help with stability/increase OC.


Well, finally got my FX today. Got it all set up. Running the first 10 minute prime test right now. Looking good so far.
4,3 GHz @ 1,3625V
45 °C (ambient about 25°C) with low fan setting and open case.
Idle is exactly at room temperature: I love liquid metal thermal compound.









Update:
Closed my case, temps are a bit lower now.
I'm on 4,5GHz @ stock 1,3625V, stays at 49*C, looks stable so far.

Update:
4,6 @ 1,38V, 53°C


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riggnix*
> 
> Well, finally got my FX today. Got it all set up. Running the first 10 minute prime test right now. Looking good so far.
> 4,3 GHz @ 1,3625V
> 45 °C (ambient about 25°C) with low fan setting and open case.
> Idle is exactly at room temperature: I love liquid metal thermal compound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update:
> Closed my case, temps are a bit lower now.
> I'm on 4,5GHz @ stock 1,3625V, stays at 49*C, looks stable so far.
> 
> Update:
> 4,6 @ 1,38V, 53°C


Wow nice. It looks like your CPU is scaling very nicely. 500Mhz on Stock voltages, and ~an extra 3 notches to 4.6Ghz.
Nice cool temps too


----------



## riggnix

Ok, I finally finished my cooling system









Now I'm on 8x 4.8 GHz @ 1.45V.
I'm having trouble with my cooler, SpeedFan doesn't recognize the core temperature, so I can only control my fans by CPU socket temperature. I guess that's why I need this voltage. I don't want to run my fans at too high rpm all the time, they are pretty loud








Does anyone know a fan control software that reads FX-8350's temp? There's an open issue on SpeedFan's bug tracker...

I got 4.9 almost stable, but i think the only problem was my fan control. I won't give up


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riggnix*
> 
> Ok, I finally finished my cooling system
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I'm on 8x 4.8 GHz @ 1.45V.
> I'm having trouble with my cooler, SpeedFan doesn't recognize the core temperature, so I can only control my fans by CPU socket temperature. I guess that's why I need this voltage. I don't want to run my fans at too high rpm all the time, they are pretty loud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know a fan control software that reads FX-8350's temp? There's an open issue on SpeedFan's bug tracker...
> 
> I got 4.9 almost stable, but i think the only problem was my fan control. I won't give up


Fan Xpert through the Asus Software Suite works great. It also goes by socket temp, but you can create a custom setup, so that it keeps the core temp nice and cool.


----------



## riggnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Fan Xpert through the Asus Software Suite works great. It also goes by socket temp, but you can create a custom setup, so that it keeps the core temp nice and cool.


Then i guess I'll stick to SpeedFan. It also supports custom fan control.
The problem is, that the core temp rises very fast if I start Prime. The socket temp is a bunch of seconds behind, which let's the CPU climb up the the high 50s, where it needs alot of voltage to stay stable. The main problem is surviving these seconds, once my fans spin at full rpm it's not that big of a problem to keep the CPU cool









About "safe temperatures": What do you think, is it really that bad, if temps rise to 65°C when running Prime? It will probably never get that high under normal usage, even when all cores are used. Because I'm only at 1.45V now, so there's some headroom left


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riggnix*
> 
> Then i guess I'll stick to SpeedFan. It also supports custom fan control.
> The problem is, that the core temp rises very fast if I start Prime. The socket temp is a bunch of seconds behind, which let's the CPU climb up the the high 50s, where it needs alot of voltage to stay stable. The main problem is surviving these seconds, once my fans spin at full rpm it's not that big of a problem to keep the CPU cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About "safe temperatures": What do you think, is it really that bad, if temps rise to 65°C when running Prime? It will probably never get that high under normal usage, even when all cores are used. Because I'm only at 1.45V now, so there's some headroom left


65C is not too bad when running prime. You're right, under normal usage, you wont see temps reach that high. Even if you were Folding or BIONIC or something that loads all the cores, Prime95 actually stresses the system ~15% over it's capacity (both in power usage and heat).


----------



## ComputerRestore

Updated the OP with some UnOfficial Overclocking Methods.

I encourage people to try this method - as there hasn't been enough testing on it, but so far has decent results.


----------



## Krusher33

I have been wanting to lower the NB to RAM speeds and lower the voltage a bit to see if it makes a difference on mine. I've just been too lazy to do so.


----------



## USMCprwarr

Thanks for the thread. I had already had my sabertooth and 8350 stable at 4.6. But this guide showed me that for MY chip I didn't need nearly as much power as I was using


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *USMCprwarr*
> 
> Thanks for the thread. I had already had my sabertooth and 8350 stable at 4.6. But this guide showed me that for MY chip I didn't need nearly as much power as I was using


Thanks very much. That's actually the reason I made this Guide. With such a huge range of stock voltages for these CPU's (1.28-1.4), it was difficult for people to share settings. My CPU had such a low stock voltage, that most people couldn't even boot at the voltage I was using to overclock with. That and I've never been a fan of brute force and overvolting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I have been wanting to lower the NB to RAM speeds and lower the voltage a bit to see if it makes a difference on mine. I've just been too lazy to do so.


Here's some RedBull - need moar results from testing.....thanks for your interest Krusher.


----------



## USMCprwarr

So maybe someone can give me some insight. I'musing sabertooth 990fx r.1.0 and ffix 8350. I've noticed my north bridge (not CPU/nb) core be stable at about 1.134 then suddenly drop to 0.38. I'm using AIDA64 for monitoring. Is this odd?


----------



## riggnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 65C is not too bad when running prime. You're right, under normal usage, you wont see temps reach that high. Even if you were Folding or BIONIC or something that loads all the cores, Prime95 actually stresses the system ~15% over it's capacity (both in power usage and heat).


I got 8x 4.9 GHz stable (15 min Prime) @ 1.50625 V








It's getting kinda warm (65-66 °C) but i think for Prime that's ok.

8x 5 GHz is almost stable, sometimes 1 core crashes (not always the same one). I undervolted the CPU-NB to 1.2 V, makes everything 1-2 °C cooler. DDR3-2133 still running stable. I'll try to UV the CPU-NB even further, it's really making a difference.
VDDA is at 2.2 V now, i wish i could try lowering it even more









5 GHz club, here I come









Has anyone here tried OCing with only 2 modules? I'm gonna use custom TurboCore via AmdMsrTweaker, just want to know what i can expect


----------



## 2advanced

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riggnix*
> 
> Well, finally got my FX today. Got it all set up. Running the first 10 minute prime test right now. Looking good so far.
> 4,3 GHz @ 1,3625V
> 45 °C (ambient about 25°C) with low fan setting and open case.
> Idle is exactly at room temperature: I love liquid metal thermal compound.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update:
> Closed my case, temps are a bit lower now.
> I'm on 4,5GHz @ stock 1,3625V, stays at 49*C, looks stable so far.
> 
> Update:
> 4,6 @ 1,38V, 53°C


What are your voltages under load?


----------



## Ashura

Hey, my replacement cpu has been shipped!








Wating impatiently.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riggnix*
> 
> I got 8x 4.9 GHz stable (15 min Prime) @ 1.50625 V
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's getting kinda warm (65-66 °C) but i think for Prime that's ok.
> 
> 8x 5 GHz is almost stable, sometimes 1 core crashes (not always the same one). I undervolted the CPU-NB to 1.2 V, makes everything 1-2 °C cooler. DDR3-2133 still running stable. I'll try to UV the CPU-NB even further, it's really making a difference.
> VDDA is at 2.2 V now, i wish i could try lowering it even more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 GHz club, here I come
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone here tried OCing with only 2 modules? I'm gonna use custom TurboCore via AmdMsrTweaker, just want to know what i can expect


Nice Overclock. It looks like you have a really good CPU there.

If you want to try for even better temps, you could try the UnOfficial Overclock method, so you could push it further. It's a combination of lowering the CPU/NB and voltage, but the down side is you can't run higher Ram speeds than the NB frequency. (Info is added to the guide - and a link to testing)

Some testing has shown that Memory Bandwidth is bottlenecked at those speeds anyways, so you probably wont notice it. You could even compare it with MaxxMem to see.

I've Overclocked with only 2 Modules by disabling two in the BIOS. I haven't found a program that would let me clock each Module differently. I'd be interested to know if AmdMsrTweaker will do that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Hey, my replacement cpu has been shipped!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wating impatiently.


Nice!!! Looking forward to the results with your new CPU. Shouldn't take too long to come in the mail.


----------



## riggnix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Nice Overclock. It looks like you have a really good CPU there.
> 
> If you want to try for even better temps, you could try the UnOfficial Overclock method, so you could push it further. It's a combination of lowering the CPU/NB and voltage, but the down side is you can't run higher Ram speeds than the NB frequency. (Info is added to the guide - and a link to testing)
> 
> Some testing has shown that Memory Bandwidth is bottlenecked at those speeds anyways, so you probably wont notice it. You could even compare it with MaxxMem to see.


Sound like a good idea, but I'd really like to have 5 GHz + DDR3-2133








If I got that, i guess i will try lowering RAM and NB speeds and look at the temps and performance, might be worth it for 24/7.

I don't think AmdMsrTweaker can clock modules independently, but with C'n'Q enabled, the CPU will do this itself.


----------



## BillyBonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Very welcome. They're a lot of fun to overclock, so it would be a shame to not push it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 53C is not that warm, especially on Prime95. Unless you run programs that will fully stress all the cores ([email protected] etc) you will never see those temps in daily use.
> 
> The max Core temp is 62 Celsius, and 70 Celsius for Socket.
> 
> If you are able to increase the frequency more without an increase in voltage, you will see minimal temperature increases. I'd say you have a lot of headroom left for overclocking.


Just wanted to give you an update I was able to reach to 4.4ghz all all 8 cores and ran IBT stable, looking to get to 4.6 but its been a bit difficult.








Below is the link to the CPU-Z validation. http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2703050


----------



## BillyBonz

I am posting my MB settings for the above 4.4 OC, let me know if you have any comments


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> I am posting my MB settings for the above 4.4 OC, let me know if you have any comments
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Great Overclock.

Your Rig info states that you are running 1600Mhz Ram - yet your Screenshot is showing 1241Mhz. If you are using the FSB to Overclock you should manually adjust the DRAM-CPU/NB-HTT so that it runs at the proper specs.

For pushing to 4.6Ghz I'd recommend changing Current Capability for the CPU and CPU/NB to 130%

Switch CPU and CPU/NB Voltage to Manual Mode

Increase the CPU/NB to 1.2v-1.25v

Then all you need to do is bump up the CPU voltages until it can run Prime95 or IBT stable.


----------



## BillyBonz

I guess I am happy with the 4.4, I wanted to get as high as possible with the 1.3++ volts. Now I I were to enable turbo core and cool and quiet will the processor boost 1 or 2 of the modules when the turbo kicks in going above the 4.4Ghz?


----------



## BillyBonz

I will fix the RAM frequency also, tyvm for the tip


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> I guess I am happy with the 4.4, I wanted to get as high as possible with the 1.3++ volts. Now I I were to enable turbo core and cool and quiet will the processor boost 1 or 2 of the modules when the turbo kicks in going above the 4.4Ghz?


Oh I see, 4.4Ghz is a nice overclock. You're right, it's around the point where you start to really boost the voltage needed for stability, so definately a good choice.

You will have to read my FSB + Turbo section to find out what will happen when you enable Turbo while using the FSB to Overclock.

It is a good idea to enable Cool'n'Quiet once you have your overclock. That way it will drop the voltage and frequency when idle, so save heat and power.


----------



## electech13

Great guide Compu..and now that I have a Sabertooth (and have figured out it's quirks)..things are rocking.. i was still going by general guidelines and settings before when using a UD3 board...but now with Sabertooth and Bios practically the same.. very nice..lots of options and methods you have here.. like that..

Much like on my UD3 board..i'm able to EASILY get my 8350 to 4.8Ghz with little extra voltage and great temps.. my stock vcore vid is 1.315v.. and can run around 1.41v for the 4.8 and I can stay under 50 degrees! oh and this was with a lowly little Corsair H50 water cooler on it LOL! but I'm back to my H100 again.. to be safe and to get the extra couple of degrees difference.. it doesn't take too much tweaking to get 5 and 5.1Ghz and temps still very good.. and voltages well within range.. but what I really want to try now and it seems you're looking for testers is the FSB oc'ing method..

I always believe that doing the FSB method is a "higher performance" oc to begin with when dealing with the same final CPU clock freq.. just take more work in most cases...and you say I should be able to work up to 300... so that's what I'll try to do and get back to y'all and get some screenies too.. I have ram that can run stable up to 2500.. some hopefully I can find a nice balance at 300 fsb with 2400NB/2400HT/2400dram and get the right voltages to work it all out..


----------



## xSneak

Thanks for the guide.

What's the recommended vdda voltage for a 4.8 ghz oc? I have mine around 1.61 V and my cpu vcore is 1.584 V- 1.596 V under load in prime95, and it seems to be stable on the small ffts now that I bumped my cpu vcore up a notch, but I'm not entirely sure. (Sabertooth r2.0 990fx)

I'm just wondering If dropping the vcore back down a notch and turning the vdda up to 1.65 would be better.


----------



## bao28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Thanks for the guide.
> 
> What's the recommended vdda voltage for a 4.8 ghz oc? I have mine around 1.61 V and my cpu vcore is 1.584 V- 1.596 V under load in prime95, and it seems to be stable on the small ffts now that I bumped my cpu vcore up a notch, but I'm not entirely sure. (Sabertooth r2.0 990fx)
> 
> I'm just wondering If dropping the vcore back down a notch and turning the vdda up to 1.65 would be better.


that is insanely high, you will see degradation in 1 year, maybe faster depending on ur temperatures on load


----------



## Flamingo

Such a nice guide, ill use it for my 1090T overclock









so many settings in the evo 2.0, its confusing


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electech13*
> 
> Great guide Compu..and now that I have a Sabertooth (and have figured out it's quirks)..things are rocking.. i was still going by general guidelines and settings before when using a UD3 board...but now with Sabertooth and Bios practically the same.. very nice..lots of options and methods you have here.. like that..
> 
> Much like on my UD3 board..i'm able to EASILY get my 8350 to 4.8Ghz with little extra voltage and great temps.. my stock vcore vid is 1.315v.. and can run around 1.41v for the 4.8 and I can stay under 50 degrees! oh and this was with a lowly little Corsair H50 water cooler on it LOL! but I'm back to my H100 again.. to be safe and to get the extra couple of degrees difference.. it doesn't take too much tweaking to get 5 and 5.1Ghz and temps still very good.. and voltages well within range.. but what I really want to try now and it seems you're looking for testers is the FSB oc'ing method..
> 
> I always believe that doing the FSB method is a "higher performance" oc to begin with when dealing with the same final CPU clock freq.. just take more work in most cases...and you say I should be able to work up to 300... so that's what I'll try to do and get back to y'all and get some screenies too.. I have ram that can run stable up to 2500.. some hopefully I can find a nice balance at 300 fsb with 2400NB/2400HT/2400dram and get the right voltages to work it all out..


Wow, it looks like you have a very nice CPU there. Those are some very nice voltages you are running at. Looking forward to your results with using the FSB. The Sabertooth is an awesome board, so I think you'll get some great results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Thanks for the guide.
> 
> What's the recommended vdda voltage for a 4.8 ghz oc? I have mine around 1.61 V and my cpu vcore is 1.584 V- 1.596 V under load in prime95, and it seems to be stable on the small ffts now that I bumped my cpu vcore up a notch, but I'm not entirely sure. (Sabertooth r2.0 990fx)
> 
> I'm just wondering If dropping the vcore back down a notch and turning the vdda up to 1.65 would be better.


Hi xSneak - just to clarify VDDA is usually in the range of 2.2v-2.9v - you won't be able to lower it below 2.2v - I recommend using 2.25v if you are only using the CPU Multi to overclock, as it will help with temperatures. If you are using the FSB, then you will need a higher VDDA voltage - 2.6v

There isn't' really a recommended cpu voltage, because it's all dependent on what your stock voltage is. If you have a really high stock voltage then you will need higher voltages to keep stable compared to someone with a low stock voltage. The bonus with a higher stock voltage though, is lower temps.

What is your cpu voltage at stock settings, with Turbo Disabled and LLC on Ultra High? (you will need to save a restart to get the proper reading after changing those settings - from the BIOS - Not using CPUZ)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flamingo*
> 
> Such a nice guide, ill use it for my 1090T overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so many settings in the evo 2.0, its confusing


Thubans Overclock really nice on these boards. The extra amperage these boards support over AM3 really helps (145A vs 110A - after enabling CPU Current to 130% and CPU/NB to 130%). Incase you aren't aware, you will need to overclock the CPU/NB (2500-2800Mhz) to get the best results and to maintain stability for higher overclocks. Keep the HTT at 2000Mhz though, cause it works fine there.
Good Luck.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bao28*
> 
> that is insanely high, you will see degradation in 1 year, maybe faster depending on ur temperatures on load


I was just trying to see what the maximium overclock I could get out of the chip was. I'm going to have it turbo up to 4.6Ghz for normal usage.

@ComputerRestore

Thanks, I was just wondering because it seemed to stabilize my oc when I bumped the vdda voltage up from stock.
I'll get back to you on my stock vcore voltage. Also, I'm using llc on extreme settings since it seemed to be the only way to get stable at 4.8, should I drop it to ultra high if I want to turbo to 4.6?

I thought the temperatures were the only concern with overclocking; as long as I'm am in the safe temperature range, it doesn't matter what the voltages are.
Is that false?

another question, If I only fail prime95 on the blend test, does that mean there is an issue with my ram?


----------



## xSneak

duplicate post.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> I was just trying to see what the maximium overclock I could get out of the chip was. I'm going to have it turbo up to 4.6Ghz for normal usage.
> 
> @ComputerRestore
> 
> Thanks, I was just wondering because it seemed to stabilize my oc when I bumped the vdda voltage up from stock.
> I'll get back to you on my stock vcore voltage. Also, I'm using llc on extreme settings since it seemed to be the only way to get stable at 4.8, should I drop it to ultra high if I want to turbo to 4.6?
> 
> I thought the temperatures were the only concern with overclocking; as long as I'm am in the safe temperature range, it doesn't matter what the voltages are.
> Is that false?
> 
> another question, If I only fail prime95 on the blend test, does that mean there is an issue with my ram?


If you fail Blend on Prime95 then there could be a ram or IMC issue. You can try to increase your CPU/NB voltage more, as that is the IMC voltage. But ram issues will effect it as well. Also, some of these chips just have strange issues when fully loading the IMC like with Prime, so you may not get it fully stable on Blend, but if Small FFT is ok, you probably wont notice any issues under normal usage.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> If you fail Blend on Prime95 then there could be a ram or IMC issue. You can try to increase your CPU/NB voltage more, as that is the IMC voltage. But ram issues will effect it as well. Also, some of these chips just have strange issues when fully loading the IMC like with Prime, so you may not get it fully stable on Blend, but if Small FFT is ok, you probably wont notice any issues under normal usage.


I was thinking the same thing because I didn't have any problems in game.

Do you think it could be because the motherboard uses slightly different specs than the xmp settings? I loaded the xmp settings on my ram : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468
and the "TRFC" is set to 160 on the motherboard vs. 171 on the xmp settings.

It's always worker 8 that fails.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> I was thinking the same thing because I didn't have any problems in game.
> 
> Do you think it could be because the motherboard uses slightly different specs than the xmp settings? I loaded the xmp settings on my ram : http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231468
> and the "TRFC" is set to 160 on the motherboard vs. 171 on the xmp settings.
> 
> It's always worker 8 that fails.


It could be from the motherboard setting different specs, than what the ram is rated for.
You could set a lower overclock and run 10 Passes of Intel Burn Test on Maximum to see if it's stable. That should rule out any obvious ram issues.
Looks like your ram is rated for 11-11-11-30 2T @ 1.6v @ 2133Mhz.

From what I've seen though is that worker 8 will fail if you don't have enough cpu voltage set. Or the IMC just has issues keeping stabiliy to some cores over a certain frequency. (while under Prime stress)


----------



## Ashura

They took 4 FREAKING days!








*Sigh*, anyways it finally arrived.
My previous chip was 1242 & this one is 1247

Running it @ stock for now, will find some time & do some overclocking & stress testing.


----------



## riggnix

@ComputerRestore:
What do you think about Prime Large FFT test? It gets my cpu a few degrees warmer, and i have to use a bit more voltage to get it stable. Does it make sense to test for Large FFT stability? I also want to test the IMC, because i have the NB running at 2200 and want to undervolt it as much as possible (heat).
How would you test? Small FFT and Blend or Large FFT?


----------



## Flamingo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Thubans Overclock really nice on these boards. The extra amperage these boards support over AM3 really helps (145A vs 110A - after enabling CPU Current to 130% and CPU/NB to 130%). Incase you aren't aware, you will need to overclock the CPU/NB (2500-2800Mhz) to get the best results and to maintain stability for higher overclocks. Keep the HTT at 2000Mhz though, cause it works fine there.
> Good Luck.


Thank you!

Is there any general rule of thumb, when I should set it to 130%? (ie what CPU volt or frequency?)

On TPU, when they overclocked a 1100T @ 4Ghz, 1.4V, it drew about 275W at load, which would be 196A :S (it also shutdown the board for them).

At Guru3D it was "At 4200 MHz (all cores stressed) / 1.55 V we consumed over 250 Watts (peak)." ie 161A

Is there any software to monitor the the current draw or power usage of the CPU? I know HWmonitor has that option but thats TDP and something different...

I assume that increasing this setting cause VRM's to heat more too?

*sorry for discussing non-FX processor*


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riggnix*
> 
> @ComputerRestore:
> What do you think about Prime Large FFT test? It gets my cpu a few degrees warmer, and i have to use a bit more voltage to get it stable. Does it make sense to test for Large FFT stability? I also want to test the IMC, because i have the NB running at 2200 and want to undervolt it as much as possible (heat).
> How would you test? Small FFT and Blend or Large FFT?


For the final test, I prefer Blend with 75% of ram usage. It's a really good full system stresser.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> They took 4 FREAKING days!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Sigh*, anyways it finally arrived.
> My previous chip was 1242 & this one is 1247
> 
> Running it @ stock for now, will find some time & do some overclocking & stress testing.


Hope it runs a lot better - get those results up








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flamingo*
> 
> Thank you!
> 
> Is there any general rule of thumb, when I should set it to 130%? (ie what CPU volt or frequency?)
> 
> On TPU, when they overclocked a 1100T @ 4Ghz, 1.4V, it drew about 275W at load, which would be 196A :S (it also shutdown the board for them).
> 
> At Guru3D it was "At 4200 MHz (all cores stressed) / 1.55 V we consumed over 250 Watts (peak)." ie 161A
> 
> Is there any software to monitor the the current draw or power usage of the CPU? I know HWmonitor has that option but thats TDP and something different...
> 
> I assume that increasing this setting cause VRM's to heat more too?
> 
> *sorry for discussing non-FX processor*


No worries about asking non-fx questions. It's mostly about the board anyways.

I would recommend to always have CPU Current Capabillity set to 130% when overclocking. It doesn't cause the cpu to use extra current, it just opens up a larger range if "required". It's better to have the current fluctuate, which allows the cpu voltage to stay steady depending on the load, which helps with stability.

As for those W @ load figures, that would most likely be full system. The actual cpu watt load would be much lower. I'm not sure of a program that could measure cpu power usage. You would most likely need to use a multi-meter and amp clamp around the atx plug, and then do calculations.

Using this formula TDP((OC MHZ/MHZ)(OC V/V)^2)=~WATTS

That CPU @ 4.2Ghz and 1.55v would only be using 135A @ ~ 200W

So say, that you left the settings on 100% only giving you 110A to use.

That CPU @ 4.2Ghz would need 1.8v @ 110A to keep within the 200W power usage it needs.
But the voltage would fluctuate like crazy depending on load so it would be unstable anyways.


----------



## Ashura

This was the etching I was talking about.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











BUT, a similar etching was on my new Chip as well.









whats up with that?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> This was the etching I was talking about.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT, a similar etching was on my new Chip as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> whats up with that?


Yeah, mine have that too. Just part of the IHS manufacturing I guess.


----------



## Ashura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Yeah, mine have that too. Just part of the IHS manufacturing I guess.


Ha.. weird.

Also, I forgot to mention that my previous 8350 came with a cooler master heatsink & this one is AVC.
I saw some unboxing videos & they all had AVC.


----------



## lordstag

Love the guide, thanks for that. Question regarding LLC. I know the point of it is to stabilize vdroop, but in my situation it's more or less compensating for vdrrop that isn't there and I'm basically using it to increase my voltage at load.. For example my 8350 at 5 Ghz requires 1.55 volts. I have my LLC set to extreme and idle voltage is 1.5, and LLC brings it to 1.55 at load...

It is Prime95 stable, but, my question is: is that a good way to do it or would setting a lower LLC and increase voltage be better? Presumably if i can run at lower voltage when not at load that is good?

Thanks for any input you can give.


----------



## Krusher33

Lowering LLC can lower temps. Only way to find out if you don't need it that high is to just lower and test it.


----------



## lordstag

No, I know i need 1.55 volts for 5ghz to be stable. My question is am I better off with extreme LLC and having LLC raise my 1.5 to 1.55. Or, am I better off setting a lower LLC and raising my voltage to 1.55 manually having a consistent 1.55 voltage.


----------



## Krusher33

Sounds a lot like my chip actually. I'm at 1.55v for stability. For LLC, I went with 1 step down from Ultra and had no problems.


----------



## xSneak

I'm back again. Is there anyway I can adjust cool'n'quiet's behavior? It seems to be throttling my processor when it's under load even though my temps are fine.

secondly, how many cores does turbo core overclock when it kicks in?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordstag*
> 
> No, I know i need 1.55 volts for 5ghz to be stable. My question is am I better off with extreme LLC and having LLC raise my 1.5 to 1.55. Or, am I better off setting a lower LLC and raising my voltage to 1.55 manually having a consistent 1.55 voltage.


I usually recommend setting lower LLC and using a higher voltage. The reason for this is to reduce VRM temps. Using the extreme setting boosts the voltage as well as works the VRM's harder because it's over compensating. If you are happy with using Exteme or you have the cooling to do it, then I would leave it as is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> I'm back again. Is there anyway I can adjust cool'n'quiet's behavior? It seems to be throttling my processor when it's under load even though my temps are fine.
> 
> secondly, how many cores does turbo core overclock when it kicks in?


Welcome back.

You can change Cool'N'Quiet to be disabled, or disabled by CPU so that it wont throttle the cpu.
You have that set and it's still throttling, then another component may be overheating, causing the system to throttle. Generally it's the VRM's or Socket temps.

There are a couple modes of Turbo.
1st stage: All cores frequency increase
2nd stage: Half of the cores frequency increases higher.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I usually recommend setting lower LLC and using a higher voltage. The reason for this is to reduce VRM temps. Using the extreme setting boosts the voltage as well as works the VRM's harder because it's over compensating. If you are happy with using Exteme or you have the cooling to do it, then I would leave it as is.
> Welcome back.
> 
> You can change Cool'N'Quiet to be disabled, or disabled by CPU so that it wont throttle the cpu.
> You have that set and it's still throttling, then another component may be overheating, causing the system to throttle. Generally it's the VRM's or Socket temps.
> 
> There are a couple modes of Turbo.
> 1st stage: All cores frequency increase
> 2nd stage: Half of the cores frequency increases higher.


I reversed my h100i to intake air from the top so it will cool the vrm that's been causing trouble. It doesn't get past 73 degrees celsius now, before it was getting to 86 degrees celsius.

It seems to be throttling at these temperatures which are safe.

This is with prime95 running btw. The normal clock speed was 4.4Ghz.


----------



## lordstag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Sounds a lot like my chip actually. I'm at 1.55v for stability. For LLC, I went with 1 step down from Ultra and had no problems.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I usually recommend setting lower LLC and using a higher voltage. The reason for this is to reduce VRM temps. Using the extreme setting boosts the voltage as well as works the VRM's harder because it's over compensating. If you are happy with using Exteme or you have the cooling to do it, then I would leave it as is.
> Welcome back.
> 
> You can change Cool'N'Quiet to be disabled, or disabled by CPU so that it wont throttle the cpu.
> You have that set and it's still throttling, then another component may be overheating, causing the system to throttle. Generally it's the VRM's or Socket temps.
> 
> There are a couple modes of Turbo.
> 1st stage: All cores frequency increase
> 2nd stage: Half of the cores frequency increases higher.


Thanks for your input. I'll test out temps at lower LLC and higher voltage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> I reversed my h100i to intake air from the top so it will cool the vrm that's been causing trouble. It doesn't get past 73 degrees celsius now, before it was getting to 86 degrees celsius.
> 
> It seems to throttling at these temperatures which are safe.
> 
> This is with prime95 running btw. The normal clock speed was 4.4Ghz.


Not sure if this is what is happening to you... but on a Gigabyte board I had with my bulldozer chip I had the same multiplier lowering throttling for no apparent reason. I had to disable APM in the BIOS and it stopped. I've always disabled APM since then, so not sure if it was an issue specifically with that board or not.


----------



## Krusher33

Sometimes boards will just throttle because of the amount of voltage. Happened to me once.


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lordstag*
> 
> Thanks for your input. I'll test out temps at lower LLC and higher voltage.
> Not sure if this is what is happening to you... but on a Gigabyte board I had with my bulldozer chip I had the same multiplier lowering throttling for no apparent reason. I had to disable APM in the BIOS and it stopped. I've always disabled APM since then, so not sure if it was an issue specifically with that board or not.


I'll try to disable apm. Edit: It worked. thanks a ton.

When I disabled both c1e and cool'n'quiet it stopped throttling. I also don't get errors instantly in blend now that I upped the cpu/nb voltage.

My system failed prime95 after 1 hour 20 minutes on worker 7 this time. I just upped the vcore to see if that will fix it.

I upped the vcore a notch, so it's at 1.488v under load and it failed after 1 hour 30 minutes on small fft. (Worker 7)

I'm stable on small fft, now I need to get stable on blend.


----------



## Ashura

Hey there,
The freeze was not CPU related








This new CPU was also freezing.
But, I guess I figured it out, I've set LLC on Auto & it isn't freezing. And the temps are so low!



CPU Voltage is set @ 1.38v in BIOS. @ load it drops to 1.26v. I'm guessing thats vDroop?
Is it okay?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Hey there,
> The freeze was not CPU related
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This new CPU was also freezing.
> But, I guess I figured it out, I've set LLC on Auto & it isn't freezing. And the temps are so low!
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Voltage is set @ 1.38v in BIOS. @ load it drops to 1.26v. I'm guessing thats vDroop?
> Is it okay?


temps are very high for 4.2 and a low vcore like that









change yer cooler


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Hey there,
> The freeze was not CPU related
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This new CPU was also freezing.
> But, I guess I figured it out, I've set LLC on Auto & it isn't freezing. And the temps are so low!
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Voltage is set @ 1.38v in BIOS. @ load it drops to 1.26v. I'm guessing thats vDroop?
> Is it okay?


Hey Ashura,

So using any level of LLC other than Auto will cause your CPU to freeze?
That is some pretty bad vDroop as well.

Hopefully it's not a faulty motherboard.


----------



## Ashura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> temps are very high for 4.2 and a low vcore like that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> change yer cooler


Yes its high, but relatively low than last time, when LLC was enabled.
Ambient is around 30C, what can I expect.








At 1.380v and high ambient, I thought my cooler was doing fine








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hey Ashura,
> 
> So using any level of LLC other than Auto will cause your CPU to freeze?
> That is some pretty bad vDroop as well.
> 
> Hopefully it's not a faulty motherboard.


It seems my budget board (or maybe my PSU) cannot handle LLC.
When Idling my vcore fluctuates between 1.344v ~1.380v.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Yes its high, but relatively low than last time, when LLC was enabled.
> Ambient is around 30C, what can I expect.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 1.380v and high ambient, I thought my cooler was doing fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems my budget board (or maybe my PSU) cannot handle LLC.
> When Idling my vcore fluctuates between 1.344v ~1.380v.


Yeah, I haven't heard of any issues with the M5A97 boards not having functional LLC setttings. It is a budget board, but the VRM components are still decent. I can't remember if I asked before if you have the most up to date BIOS.

That air cooler looks pretty decent. You should try and get 4.5Ghz with it.

Lol, I think I found you on the ROG forums. HWMonitor doesn't read the PSU voltages correctly, so don't worry about that.


----------



## Ashura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Yeah, I haven't heard of any issues with the M5A97 boards not having functional LLC setttings. It is a budget board, but the VRM components are still decent. I can't remember if I asked before if you have the most up to date BIOS.
> 
> That air cooler looks pretty decent. You should try and get 4.5Ghz with it.
> 
> Lol, I think I found you on the ROG forums. HWMonitor doesn't read the PSU voltages correctly, so don't worry about that.


Yeah, that's what I thought when buying this board. Bios is updated to 1503.
Brought it back to stock.
Is too much vdroop okay?

And yes, I had seen similar threads @ rog, thought about getting some more views


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Yeah, that's what I thought when buying this board. Bios is updated to 1503.
> Brought it back to stock.
> Is too much vdroop okay?
> 
> And yes, I had seen similar threads @ rog, thought about getting some more views


Well, the high vDroop is fine, it just means you have to set a very high voltage to compensate. The other thing, is that the voltage is probably boucing around under load, which effects stability. You could run OCCT and it will graph your voltage. If it's a nice steady line, or it doesn't fluctuate too much then it is something that you can just live with I guess.

Maybe it's something you could message Asus about with the board as well. It'll freeze even at stock running anything but Auto LLC too right?


----------



## Ashura

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Well, the high vDroop is fine, it just means you have to set a very high voltage to compensate. The other thing, is that the voltage is probably boucing around under load, which effects stability. You could run OCCT and it will graph your voltage. If it's a nice steady line, or it doesn't fluctuate too much then it is something that you can just live with I guess.
> 
> Maybe it's something you could message Asus about with the board as well. It'll freeze even at stock running anything but Auto LLC too right?


Its absolutely fine at stock settings. I set all the default values manually(Like your guide) except my LLC was set on auto, & it passed 10 runs of IBT @ High.
But, I couldn't take it to 4.2Ghz, even with a high voltage(1.425v).
This board doesn't look like it can handle an OC.









I'll see if I can sell this board and get the Evo version.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Its absolutely fine at stock settings. I set all the default values manually(Like your guide) except my LLC was set on auto, & it passed 10 runs of IBT @ High.
> But, I couldn't take it to 4.2Ghz, even with a high voltage(1.425v).
> This board doesn't look like it can handle an OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll see if I can sell this board and get the Evo version.


if its the m5A99x evo then you in for a treat. its my old board and with it reached 4.8ghz

just hope its not your chip thats holding you back


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Its absolutely fine at stock settings. I set all the default values manually(Like your guide) except my LLC was set on auto, & it passed 10 runs of IBT @ High.
> But, I couldn't take it to 4.2Ghz, even with a high voltage(1.425v).
> This board doesn't look like it can handle an OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll see if I can sell this board and get the Evo version.


Yeah, definately sounds like a board issue. I actually just bought the M5A99X Evo 2.0 so I could continue testing my FX 8150 (since I sold my Piledriver Rig). With Rebates I picked it up for $90, and it overclocks like a champ. (Currently 4.6Ghz on Air easy) It has all the options that the Pro version had, just a few less Sata Ports and different PCIe lanes.


----------



## xSneak

Any advice on getting my ram stable?

It seems to be impossible...... I might just give up on it. Would it causes crashes if I was gaming or transcoding movies?


----------



## xSneak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Any advice on getting my ram stable?
> 
> It seems to be impossible...... I might just give up on it. Would it causes crashes if I was gaming or transcoding movies?


The longest I've had it stable on blend was 15 minutes.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> The longest I've had it stable on blend was 15 minutes.


If you are running the proper timings and voltages for your Ram and it wont pass Blend, you can try to increase the CPU/NB a bit more. If it's still unstable running Prime on Blend, then the IMC may not be able to handle that load.

It should be fine in normal usage though.


----------



## Ashura

Yes, there is a lot of fluctuation. But, minor ones.


----------



## Peckafo

First I want to say thank you for this awesome guide. Without it I would have been totally lost.
I'm new with CPU overclocking and recently build my rig with AMD FX-6300 and Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0.
I changed the stock cooler to CM Hyper 212 EVO. Yesterday I tried some overclocking and managed to get 4300Mhz (with Ratio 21.5 and CPU manual Voltage 1.344).
I used all recommended settings of this quide







and got 0 errors of running Prime95 Small FTT-test for about 25 minutes.
Temps were high though: Core temp 54 and Socket 64 celcius degrees.
Then I tried to get 4400Mhz with ratio 22. At first 6th core failed during the stress test. I raised the voltage a little (to 1.369V) and got 0 errors for 30 mins of Small FTT.
Naturally temps were even higher at this time: Core 59C, Socket 68C. I tried to play Far Cry 3 and after 5 minutes it crashed.

Heat is obviously a problem in my case. I was thinking to put a fan blowing to VRM heatsink but I don't have room for that at the moment. My case is old (Antec Sonata Piano) and PSU is top mounted to case. Do you think it would be ok to turn the psu upside down so that it wound suck the air from up? How much empty space PSU needs to get the air? That way I could tape the extra fan for VRM heatsink to other side of psu. Here is a picutre of my rig (with stock cooler still on):



I'm not going to buy a new case, but if there is something else that I could do to lower temps I would be very grateful for any tips. Sorry my bad english.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peckafo*
> 
> Heat is obviously a problem in my case. I was thinking to put a fan blowing to VRM heatsink but I don't have room for that at the moment. My case is old (Antec Sonata Piano) and PSU is top mounted to case. Do you think it would be ok to turn the psu upside down so that it wound suck the air from up? How much empty space PSU needs to get the air? That way I could tape the extra fan for VRM heatsink to other side of psu. Here is a picutre of my rig (with stock cooler still on):
> 
> I'm not going to buy a new case, but if there is something else that I could do to lower temps I would be very grateful for any tips. Sorry my bad english.


I would say, leave your PSU the way it is. Also looking at your picture, it looks like you only have a 4-Pin ATX plugged in. You should plug in an 8-Pin for better power delivery.

You can use your stock CPU fan with some double sided tape and you should have room to stick it above the I/O Panel, to cool the VRM's. You'll want it blowing down on the VRM's for best performance.

Other than that, as long as you have the Cooler Master blowing towards the rear exhaust fan, you should have enough Airflow.
You should also check the seating of your CPU cooler. You should be getting better cooling with it, unless your ambient temps are high.


----------



## lucas.vulcan

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/42/2013021400h46voltagecpu.png/

Pseudo : Lucas
Processeur : AMD FX-8350 @ 4615 MHZ
Refroidissement CPU : (ANTEC 920)
Carte mère : SABERTOOTH 990 FX R2.0
Mémoire : PATRIOT @ 16GO 1866MHZ 9-11-9-27-1T
Carte graphique : Crossfire ATI HD 7970 @ 1125/1575
Refroidissement 3D : : ANTEC 920 x2
Pilotes : Catalyst 13.1
Système d'exploitation : W7 ultimate 64bits

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/3dmark11crossfireoc.png/

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2715100

http://valid.canardpc.com/2715100

Under OCCT test for 8H `and` NO ERROR
CPU Vcore with all the right example of stability.


----------



## Peckafo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I would say, leave your PSU the way it is. Also looking at your picture, it looks like you only have a 4-Pin ATX plugged in. You should plug in an 8-Pin for better power delivery.
> 
> You can use your stock CPU fan with some double sided tape and you should have room to stick it above the I/O Panel, to cool the VRM's. You'll want it blowing down on the VRM's for best performance.
> 
> Other than that, as long as you have the Cooler Master blowing towards the rear exhaust fan, you should have enough Airflow.
> You should also check the seating of your CPU cooler. You should be getting better cooling with it, unless your ambient temps are high.


Thank you for paying attention to ATX-cable, should have noticed it myself. I reinstalled the cooler with good cleanup and new paste (which came with cooler). This time I put a thin layer of paste to cooler base (with credit card). It was the way to do it in manual. First time i just put a small spot of paste on CPU.

I also tried to fit my stock CPU fan above the I/O panel. I had to use a knife to cut it a little cause it didn't fit otherwise. Now it fits and i will install it better when i have double sided tape. Here's updated picture where you can see the stock fan (not the best picture):



I didn't have time to test temps yet. Just test started computer with quite noisy sound of the little fan, it was running fast. Will use fan Xpert to change it's speed profile. Do you think it would we a good idea to add another 120mm fan to cooler (push/pull system)? Thank you for your answer. I will report the temperatures when I have time to test it.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peckafo*
> 
> Thank you for paying attention to ATX-cable, should have noticed it myself. I reinstalled the cooler with good cleanup and new paste (which came with cooler). This time I put a thin layer of paste to cooler base (with credit card). It was the way to do it in manual. First time i just put a small spot of paste on CPU.
> 
> I also tried to fit my stock CPU fan above the I/O panel. I had to use a knife to cut it a little cause it didn't fit otherwise. Now it fits and i will install it better when i have double sided tape. Here's updated picture where you can see the stock fan (not the best picture):
> 
> I didn't have time to test temps yet. Just test started computer with quite noisy sound of the little fan, it was running fast. Will use fan Xpert to change it's speed profile. Do you think it would we a good idea to add another 120mm fan to cooler (push/pull system)? Thank you for your answer. I will report the temperatures when I have time to test it.


Cooler looks great. For the stock CPU fan, I usually just set it right on top of the VRM heatsink, but you should get decent enough airflow with how you have it.
Yes those little cooler master fans do get noisy.
I would recommend installing another one for Push/Pull. I think they are smaller than 120mm though, so you should measure it before ordering another one.


----------



## Peckafo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Cooler looks great. For the stock CPU fan, I usually just set it right on top of the VRM heatsink, but you should get decent enough airflow with how you have it.
> Yes those little cooler master fans do get noisy.
> I would recommend installing another one for Push/Pull. I think they are smaller than 120mm though, so you should measure it before ordering another one.


I taped the little fan to it's place on the picture. I wanted to put it top of the VRM heatsink but ATX-cables didn't left me any room for that (or do you mean you tape the little fan on VRM heatsink just below cables in "upright" position? I'm a little confused).
Anyway I did a couple Prime95 tests (I only changed CPU ratio with little changes of voltage):
4400Mhz, 1.38v -> About 7 minutes of Small FTT Test and had to stop it cause Core Temp went to 62C (Socket was at 65C that time), 0 errors
4400Mhz 1.36V-> BSOD (less than 10 mins) with this test i tried with APM Master mode disabled because I found out it has helped some people with throttling problems in high temps
4300Mhz 1.36V-> 10 min Small FTT: Core 58C, Socket 63C. Then I ran blend test 22min: Socket 66C/Core 60C with 0 errors.

I played a little with this last setting and temps were much lower and it didn't crashed.
It seems that Socket temps are little bit lower (thanks to that little fan i guess) than first time but core temps are very high.
There was no problem at installing the cooler, but still the temps make me think I did something wrong.
I was dreaming to get 4.5 stable but it seems to be impossible with my system. Anyway, 4.3 is a lot better than 3.5








I'll keep testing and reporting. Thank you so much for help and advices!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peckafo*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I taped the little fan to it's place on the picture. I wanted to put it top of the VRM heatsink but ATX-cables didn't left me any room for that (or do you mean you tape the little fan on VRM heatsink just below cables in "upright" position? I'm a little confused).
> Anyway I did a couple Prime95 tests (I only changed CPU ratio with little changes of voltage):
> 4400Mhz, 1.38v -> About 7 minutes of Small FTT Test and had to stop it cause Core Temp went to 62C (Socket was at 65C that time), 0 errors
> 4400Mhz 1.36V-> BSOD (less than 10 mins) with this test i tried with APM Master mode disabled because I found out it has helped some people with throttling problems in high temps
> 4300Mhz 1.36V-> 10 min Small FTT: Core 58C, Socket 63C. Then I ran blend test 22min: Socket 66C/Core 60C with 0 errors.
> 
> I played a little with this last setting and temps were much lower and it didn't crashed.
> It seems that Socket temps are little bit lower (thanks to that little fan i guess) than first time but core temps are very high.
> There was no problem at installing the cooler, but still the temps make me think I did something wrong.
> I was dreaming to get 4.5 stable but it seems to be impossible with my system. Anyway, 4.3 is a lot better than 3.5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll keep testing and reporting. Thank you so much for help and advices!


I made a picture on how to place the fan on the VRM heatsink. It's pretty crude but I hope it helps.



Your temps do still seem high for a 6 core FX. Did you clean the CPU and the Heatsink surface with Rubbing Alcohol? The Cooler Master heatsinks usually come with a sticker that leaves a thick glue on the mounting surface. If not, then I would clean them and when you re-assemble everything, use the Pea Size Dot of TIM on the CPU and then let the weight of the CPU cooler squish it out as you install it.


----------



## Krusher33

I can't remember if you answered my question or not but on my Hyper 212+ I was able to drop the fan down on the cooler a bit so that some air blows below the cooler's fins and into the VRM area. I also had fliped the case's top fans to blowing inward onto the VRM area as well.

And then there's ComputerRestore's idea as well which is getting more common. I've actually made a fan mount out of aluminum, bolted it just above the IO area.


----------



## Peckafo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I made a picture on how to place the fan on the VRM heatsink. It's pretty crude but I hope it helps.
> 
> 
> 
> Your temps do still seem high for a 6 core FX. Did you clean the CPU and the Heatsink surface with Rubbing Alcohol? The Cooler Master heatsinks usually come with a sticker that leaves a thick glue on the mounting surface. If not, then I would clean them and when you re-assemble everything, use the Pea Size Dot of TIM on the CPU and then let the weight of the CPU cooler squish it out as you install it.


I used isopropanol to clean the CPU and cooler base, I cleaned it very careful. I think i will reinstall it once more some day.

I just installed the little fan like you suggested, raised voltage to 1.406V, 4500mhz and tried Intel Burn Test. It went through with no errors. Temps: Core 58C and Socket 62C
Then I tried Prime95 small FFT for ten minutes and got also 0 errors! Temps: Core 61C and Socket 64C. Core temps are too high but socket seems OK now I think.
It was definitely worth it to put the fan like you said. I'm happy now if computer doesn't freeze during gaming. I don't think core temps are going so high while playing but I'll be careful. Thank you once more!


----------



## BenC

I decided to post this here given the ASUS mobo theme.

I ran into this Vishera performance scaling thread that seems to suggest non-linear scaling when overclocking.

I wanted to try and verify this, and add to it by including the Northbridge as well. To do so I decided to use All Benchmark - Tiger. Video card remained at stock across all tests.

Caveat: I did not run a significant number of iterations for each set of parameters. With that in mind I would only look at trends, as opposed to individual scores.

Testing setup:
8350
G. Skill 1600 9-9-9-24
MSI 7950 - 880/1250

Overclocks were done using multiplier only. Each OC was minimally Prime stable, ~10mins Blend.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Overall, this did not confirm the "sweet spot" hypothesis, but it does seem to show that overclocking the Northbridge has limited gains on its own. However, NB overclocks can increase performance and improve scaling when combined with CPU overclocks.

Sweet spots may exist around 4.2, and between 4.5 - 4.6, when combined with a mild NB OC'd to 2400.

I will try to follow up on these, but it has made me re-think how I OC my system.


----------



## Krusher33

Did you keep the same RAM speed in each of the tests?


----------



## BenC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Did you keep the same RAM speed in each of the tests?


Only changes were the variables being investigated, core speed and NB.

All other settings stayed the same.


----------



## Durvelle27

need help ocing as i can't get my system stable. Windows 7 Freezes when i oc. I have a FX 8320 & a ASUS M5A997 EVO


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Did you keep the same RAM speed in each of the tests?
> 
> 
> 
> Only changes were the variables being investigated, core speed and NB.
> 
> All other settings stayed the same.
Click to expand...

What I'm curious is... upping NB and upping RAM synchronously. Just something about AMD's OC guide saying NB = Memory speed makes me curious. I understand that RAM speed probably doesn't affect scaling directly.


----------



## BenC

I will try and add differing ram speeds when I have time.

Unfortunately the G skill Sniper I have will not go above ~1770 and remain stable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> need help ocing as i can't get my system stable. Windows 7 Freezes when i oc. I have a FX 8320 & a ASUS M5A997 EVO


Have you read the guides on the first page? That is an excellent place to start.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> I decided to post this here given the ASUS mobo theme.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I ran into this Vishera performance scaling thread that seems to suggest non-linear scaling when overclocking.
> 
> I wanted to try and verify this, and add to it by including the Northbridge as well. To do so I decided to use All Benchmark - Tiger. Video card remained at stock across all tests.
> 
> Caveat: I did not run a significant number of iterations for each set of parameters. With that in mind I would only look at trends, as opposed to individual scores.
> 
> Testing setup:
> 8350
> G. Skill 1600 9-9-9-24
> MSI 7950 - 880/1250
> 
> Overclocks were done using multiplier only. Each OC was minimally Prime stable, ~10mins Blend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, this did not confirm the "sweet spot" hypothesis, but it does seem to show that overclocking the Northbridge has limited gains on its own. However, NB overclocks can increase performance and improve scaling when combined with CPU overclocks.
> 
> Sweet spots may exist around 4.2, and between 4.5 - 4.6, when combined with a mild NB OC'd to 2400.
> 
> I will try to follow up on these, but it has made me re-think how I OC my system.


Great work BenC. That is very intersting indeed.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> I will try and add differing ram speeds when I have time.
> 
> Unfortunately the G skill Sniper I have will not go above ~1770 and remain stable.
> Have you read the guides on the first page? That is an excellent place to start.


Yes found out the problem was voltage. I was able to get 4.4GHz stable at 1.380v


----------



## MrSingh

Been using the Sabertooth 990fx r2.0 for about a week now, still overclocking!! Got 4.8ghz stable on the fx-8350 with Antec 920 kuhler(cooler). I swapped out a Corsair H60 for it because my temps maxed out at 4.6ghz, (62-65 core, 72-75 socket). With the Antec 920 ive gotten 4.8ghz at max temps (61 core, 71 socket).

I`m thinking of ways I can get better cooling, maybe using better thermal paste like the arctic m-4, currently I used the preapplied paste that came with the Antec 920. And thinking about installing a fan behind the socket into the towers case.(A slim 120mm or 140mm fan)

Suggestions and tips would be much appreciated

*Although I am impressed and satisfied with 4.8ghz, 5ghz would be a done deal!*


----------



## BenC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> What I'm curious is... upping NB and upping RAM synchronously. Just something about AMD's OC guide saying NB = Memory speed makes me curious. I understand that RAM speed probably doesn't affect scaling directly.


Try as I can I could not boot with my ram higher than 1800, so until I get faster ram I can't look at memory and NB scaling.

On a different note, Computer Restore is there any trick to your FSB + Turbo core overclock?

My FSB is higher than yours, but even a modest Turbo OC (4.2 --> 4.5) fails to boot. This happens with/with out cooln'quiet, or APM on.

Info:
FSB 268
Current CPU - 4.2 @ 1.30 vCore
NB 2400 + some change
HT 2600 + some change

Offset - Auto or 0.15

Ram - 9 9 9 24 1777

If I understand NB is also increased with Turbo, is there anyway to see the NB target frequency?


----------



## Krusher33

Last night I finally got around to overclocking my RAM a bit.

Previously I was 2600 HT, 2000 NB, and 1866 RAM; I was getting about on average 88-90 gflops in IBT-AVX.

I wanted to up the NB before I start on the RAM. I raised it to 2600 and got 96 gflops.







I did not know it had that much of an effect?

Whatever and moved on. Bumped RAM to 2133, left its voltage the same. gflops dropped to about 86-97 and near the end it crashed.

Up the RAM voltage a couple of notches and the gflops went back to about 94-95 and was successful.

But then I had a memory error during GW2.







So I bumped my RAM voltage 1 more time. I only played for about 15 minutes after that. I'll have to check on it again tonight.


----------



## BenC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Last night I finally got around to overclocking my RAM a bit.
> 
> Previously I was 2600 HT, 2000 NB, and 1866 RAM; I was getting about on average 88-90 gflops in IBT-AVX.
> 
> I wanted to up the NB before I start on the RAM. I raised it to 2600 and got 96 gflops.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did not know it had that much of an effect?
> 
> Whatever and moved on. Bumped RAM to 2133, left its voltage the same. gflops dropped to about 86-97 and near the end it crashed.
> 
> Up the RAM voltage a couple of notches and the gflops went back to about 94-95 and was successful.
> 
> But then I had a memory error during GW2.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I bumped my RAM voltage 1 more time. I only played for about 15 minutes after that. I'll have to check on it again tonight.


What is your core speed?

And try your NB at 2400 and 2200 (which is stock btw).

For whatever reason my system likes NB at 2400. Yesterday I managed my highest All Benchmark score, with a corespeed of 4.2 (VCore at 1.3 !), NB at 2400, and ram at 9-9-9-24, 1777.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I went with 2600 right away because I wanted give my RAM overclocking some room. But I had tried 205 reference clock and it BSOD'd on my at Windows boot.









So I just may lower it down to 2200 and just be happy with 2133 RAM. Timings stayed the NEARLY the same from 1866 by the way; the last one went from 43 to 50.


----------



## BenC

Try 2400 as well. You should be able to do it at stock cpu/nb voltage, and it may provide more of an improvement than 2600.


----------



## Krusher33

For 2600 I had to up the voltage to 1.25v... I think. I don't remember for sure now.


----------



## BenC

I am not on my sig rig atm, but I think my stock cpu/nb is 1.25. Which is what I am using for NB 2400.

Weird, I feel like there is a lot of "stock" voltage variability.


----------



## Krusher33

That is possible. I had lowered it down to 1.2 some time back to lower overall temps. Now that I have a new block, I'm not as concerned.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> Try 2400 as well. You should be able to do it at stock cpu/nb voltage, and it may provide more of an improvement than 2600.


I bumped CPU voltage and RAM by 1, lowered NB to 2200.

I was super excited at first because the first test was 101.6765 gflops. But then each one after was 91-95.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> Try as I can I could not boot with my ram higher than 1800, so until I get faster ram I can't look at memory and NB scaling.
> 
> On a different note, Computer Restore is there any trick to your FSB + Turbo core overclock?
> 
> My FSB is higher than yours, but even a modest Turbo OC (4.2 --> 4.5) fails to boot. This happens with/with out cooln'quiet, or APM on.
> 
> Info:
> FSB 268
> Current CPU - 4.2 @ 1.30 vCore
> NB 2400 + some change
> HT 2600 + some change
> 
> Offset - Auto or 0.15
> 
> Ram - 9 9 9 24 1777
> 
> If I understand NB is also increased with Turbo, is there anyway to see the NB target frequency?


Since you can't set the Primary Turbo Ratio except in AOD or ASUS Suite, you have to use a lower FSB.

Currently what you are trying to boot with is 268x20.5 = 5.5Ghz


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> Try 2400 as well. You should be able to do it at stock cpu/nb voltage, and it may provide more of an improvement than 2600.
> 
> 
> 
> I bumped CPU voltage and RAM by 1, lowered NB to 2200.
> 
> I was super excited at first because the first test was 101.6765 gflops. But then each one after was 91-95.
Click to expand...

After this I tried 2400 before going to bed. 93-95 GFlops.

I think I'm going to go with 2200 for now and see if I can lower the NB voltage a bit.


----------



## BenC

I dropped my FSB to 241, this puts my memory at 1600. Everything seems to work fine but Turbo never kicks in. Not sure what is going on....


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> I dropped my FSB to 241, this puts my memory at 1600. Everything seems to work fine but Turbo never kicks in. Not sure what is going on....


That is strange. It should work as long as Turbo is Enabled or Auto and the CPU Ratio is set lower than the Turbo Frequency.


----------



## johnyboy

Turbo mode works in two stages.
For stage 1 you need to have Core C6 State ON.
For stage 2 you need to have supplementary Amp Master Mode ON.
For my FX8320 i have AMD Turbo CORE Technology set to manual in order to establish second stage turbo multiplier.
In this moment i have like this:
18 base multiplier (~4000 mhz)
18.5 first stage (~4080 mhz) this is not modifiable value
19.5 second stage (~4300 mhz)
This is maximum i cant get with my old Cooler Master TX3









Stage 1 enter when you have low loading on all core
Stage 2 enter when you have high loading on maximum 4 cores
I have Cool'n'Quiet ON, C1E ON, HPC Mode OFF


----------



## BenC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnyboy*
> 
> Turbo mode works in two stages.
> For stage 1 you need to have Core C6 State ON.
> For stage 2 you need to have supplementary Amp Master Mode ON.
> For my FX8320 i have AMD Turbo CORE Technology set to manual in order to establish second stage turbo multiplier.
> In this moment i have like this:
> 18 base multiplier (~4000 mhz)
> 18.5 first stage (~4080 mhz) this is not modifiable value
> 19.5 second stage (~4300 mhz)
> This is maximum i cant get with my old Cooler Master TX3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 1 enter when you have low loading on all core
> Stage 2 enter when you have high loading on maximum 4 cores
> I have Cool'n'Quiet ON, C1E ON, HPC Mode OFF


C6 and APM are both enabled.

Dropping my FSB solved the boot problem. Cool'n'quiet is working now and made me realize my biggest power draw was my 7950 not down clocking in 2D due to extended desktop.

I've manually set my secondary Turbo multiplier to 19.5, but it continues to switch to 20.5.

I'll keep working at it. I work at home occasionally, and I'd prefer to keep the power draw as low as possible when I am only working in spreadsheets/reading papers etc.


----------



## Krusher33

I had to drop my RAM back down to 1866 last night.







It kept crashing GW2.


----------



## johnyboy

You have fx-8350
default settings is like this:
200 fsb
20 default multi
20.5 first turbo - this cannot be changed from bios
21 second turbo is possible to change if AMD Turbo CORE Technology set to manual

if you set second turbo to 19.5 si wrong way







is like turbo brake








you must lower your fsb to use turbo technology and stay in safe value


----------



## BenC

My FSB is not stock. So 19.5 is 4.7.

It sounds like the first Turbo is the issue.

Some folks have been able to use Turbo with a higher FSB to get the best of both worlds (check the first page







).


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BenC*
> 
> C6 and APM are both enabled.
> 
> Dropping my FSB solved the boot problem. Cool'n'quiet is working now and made me realize my biggest power draw was my 7950 not down clocking in 2D due to extended desktop.
> 
> I've manually set my secondary Turbo multiplier to 19.5, but it continues to switch to 20.5.
> 
> I'll keep working at it. I work at home occasionally, and I'd prefer to keep the power draw as low as possible when I am only working in spreadsheets/reading papers etc.


Johnyboy is right. It's just that you can't set the Secondary Turbo lower than the Primary - so it'll default to a Minimum of 20.5. I'm still not sure why Turbo is not activating for you. (Primary Turbo uses a 20.5 Ratio)

I'd Load Optimal Defaults, and then just change the FSB only. Then manually set your HTT, CPU/NB and DRAM. Leave CPU and CPU/NB Voltages on Auto and on Offset Mode.


----------



## Ashura

Does switching the CPU and CPU/NB Voltages to Offset Mode changes the values back to stock?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashura*
> 
> Does switching the CPU and CPU/NB Voltages to Offset Mode changes the values back to stock?


It depends. Offset Mode with Auto settings will actually increase the voltage based on Overclock. If you are at Stock CPU settings and you change to Offset Mode, then it will change them to stock.

Also take note that it will increase the CPU/NB voltages as well based on Overclock. I've seen it set up to 1.4v for CPU/NB


----------



## BenC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Johnyboy is right. It's just that you can't set the Secondary Turbo lower than the Primary - so it'll default to a Minimum of 20.5. I'm still not sure why Turbo is not activating for you. (Primary Turbo uses a 20.5 Ratio)
> 
> I'd Load Optimal Defaults, and then just change the FSB only. Then manually set your HTT, CPU/NB and DRAM. Leave CPU and CPU/NB Voltages on Auto and on Offset Mode.


Ahhh I was misunderstanding.

First Turbo is 20.5, it is not manually set multiplier + 0.5. Which is what you both (Johnnyboy and Computer Restore) mean when you say it cannot be changed. It is set at 20.5 not an application of + 0.5.


----------



## akdeng47

Nice post.

I have 2 main questions regarding to the "recommended setting" section.

1st is the C1E Support
According to the manual -when enabled, the CPU core frequency and voltage will be reduced during system halt state to decrease power consumption.
Also I've done a lot of readings on overclocking and they all recommend this setting to be disable as i thought so.
Is the any reason that OP enabling this setting?

2nd is HPC mode
This is high performance computing mode if i am right. -enable prevents the CPU frequency from being lowered during system halt state.
I set it disable as you recommended but it downclocked my multiplier underload from 200x20=4Ghz to 200x15=3Ghz. So I leave it enable and it gives me 4Ghz constantly.
Is there any benefit to disable this setting?

Again this guide helps me a lot, thanks.

PS:I've been using ASUS board for years, just swtiched to gigabyte 990FXA-UD3. (I think C1E and HPC work in the same way on both boards?)


----------



## ComputerRestore

Hi, glad you like my guide.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akdeng47*
> 
> Nice post.
> 
> I have 2 main questions regarding to the "recommended setting" section.
> 
> 1st is the C1E Support
> According to the manual -when enabled, the CPU core frequency and voltage will be reduced during system halt state to decrease power consumption.
> Also I've done a lot of readings on overclocking and they all recommend this setting to be disable as i thought so.
> Is the any reason that OP enabling this setting?


The power saving features don't generally effect Overclocking now, compared to when they were first being introduced. In my experience they have never caused instability on these new Asus Boards, so I recommend leaving them enabled. Feel free to disable them, if you feel it's effecting your Overclock performance though.
Quote:


> 2nd is HPC mode
> This is high performance computing mode if i am right. -enable prevents the CPU frequency from being lowered during system halt state.
> I set it disable as you recommended but it downclocked my multiplier underload from 200x20=4Ghz to 200x15=3Ghz. So I leave it enable and it gives me 4Ghz constantly.
> Is there any benefit to disable this setting?


On two of the boards that I've tried (M5A99FX Pro and M5A99X Evo) enabling HPC mode would cause the system to freeze while Overclocking. That's the reason I recommend to disable it. From users of the Gigabyte Motherboards, this setting apparenlty prevents the CPU from throttling when the VRM's get hot. I imagine that's also what it's meant for on the Asus boards, but I've never got it to work properly.[/quote]

I hope that helps to answer your questions. Remember too that this is just a guide, so if there is a setting you'd rather use, or maybe a new BIOS update changes things, then go for it.


----------



## akdeng47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hi, glad you like my guide.
> The power saving features don't generally effect Overclocking now, compared to when they were first being introduced. In my experience they have never caused instability on these new Asus Boards, so I recommend leaving them enabled. Feel free to disable them, if you feel it's effecting your Overclock performance though.
> On two of the boards that I've tried (M5A99FX Pro and M5A99X Evo) enabling HPC mode would cause the system to freeze while Overclocking. That's the reason I recommend to disable it. From users of the Gigabyte Motherboards, this setting apparenlty prevents the CPU from throttling when the VRM's get hot. I imagine that's also what it's meant for on the Asus boards, but I've never got it to work properly.
> 
> I hope that helps to answer your questions. Remember too that this is just a guide, so if there is a setting you'd rather use, or maybe a new BIOS update changes things, then go for it.


Great, thank you.

I'm still tweaking to get max stable clock at around 1.4v, hopefully i can hit 4.4Ghz - 4.5Ghz.

So when you were working on ASUS board with HPC disable, did you get any "multiplier drop problem"?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akdeng47*
> 
> Great, thank you.
> 
> I'm still tweaking to get max stable clock at around 1.4v, hopefully i can hit 4.4Ghz - 4.5Ghz.
> 
> So when you were working on ASUS board with HPC disable, did you get any "multiplier drop problem"?


I never had any multiplier drop issues while stress testing with HPC disabled. Under normal usage I would see the multiplier drop, but I assume that's because of the power saving features.
On the M5A99FX Pro and M5A99X Evo boards, there seems to be issues with getting past 4.7-4.8Ghz stable, which HPC might help with, as I've heard of the system throttles at those frequencies.
I was able to get 4.7Ghz stable with HPC disabled (Fan on socket and a fan on the VRMs), but 4.8Ghz is too high for my system cooling (65-70C Core temp on Prime) to test accurately.


----------



## fohtecki

Hi and thanks alot for this thread...








finally got my 6100 at least stable for the first 10 min small fft test without scarring the turds outta my bum....(cpu:54°,vcore 60°during prime after 11 min)
one Thing is weird: with youre recomended Settings my RAM Timings adjusted themselves way different to rated specs...is that o.k. or should i Change them manually?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fohtecki*
> 
> Hi and thanks alot for this thread...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> finally got my 6100 at least stable for the first 10 min small fft test without scarring the turds outta my bum....(cpu:54°,vcore 60°during prime after 11 min)
> one Thing is weird: with youre recomended Settings my RAM Timings adjusted themselves way different to rated specs...is that o.k. or should i Change them manually?


you should manually set your DRAM to their rated specs and voltages, for proper performance.


----------



## fohtecki

Thanks for answering, but what i really meant was: is 9-9-9-24 (Specs) any better than 10-x-x-24 (x=because i sadly didn´t note what the Auto had set it to...i think it was 10-6-10-24).
would 10 oposed to 9 mean something like 1 more, therefor faster or would it mean: 1 more, therefore slower?








i have had a lot of Trouble with These RAMs, had to decrease from 4x4GB to 2x4, to finally get rid of BSOD´s, but still dont know what caused them, because memtest says they all where ok...still have to check the two spare ones now in single mode to find out if the Problem Comes back


----------



## csimon

Cas 9 is faster than 10. It just may not be stable at Cas 9 for whatever reason.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fohtecki*
> 
> Thanks for answering, but what i really meant was: is 9-9-9-24 (Specs) any better than 10-x-x-24 (x=because i sadly didn´t note what the Auto had set it to...i think it was 10-6-10-24).
> would 10 oposed to 9 mean something like 1 more, therefor faster or would it mean: 1 more, therefore slower?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have had a lot of Trouble with These RAMs, had to decrease from 4x4GB to 2x4, to finally get rid of BSOD´s, but still dont know what caused them, because memtest says they all where ok...still have to check the two spare ones now in single mode to find out if the Problem Comes back:doh:


Lower secondary timings are better, but you should start with your stock timings. I'll show you some examples.

10-10-10-27 1T @ 1600Mhz
9-9-9-24 1T @ 1600Mhz

But you could also see

10-10-10-27 1T @ 1866Mhz

If you set your ram to whatever it says on the sticker on the side of DRAM modules (example: 1600Mhz 8-9-8-21 1T 1.65v) and you still have issues then you may have to further diagnose your CPU or DRAM.

Keep in mind though that the FX CPUs are only designed to run 2 DIMMS in Dual Channel at 1866Mhz. So if you are trying to run 4 DIMMS at 1866Mhz then you may need to use higher ram voltage or increase the CPU/NB voltage.


----------



## fohtecki

that then probably means either one of the dimms is abd or cpu is aflty....as i have read dimm is more likely to be the Problem, do you know a way to find out if the cpu has a Problem with 4 dimms?
also, i still have no idea if you can see my rig-specs on the botom of my Posts, i´m still trying to find out how to do thatdropdown-thing...
would it make sense to ride on 3 dimms making 12GB out of it?
Btw:just tried out your idea with the stock cooler on top of the vrm heatsin, works great, gives me another 6°C headroom on Vcore temps...Thanx








this thread is awesome,gives me great insight,without it i couldn´t get apst anything over2 min prime almost melting my Little bulli


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fohtecki*
> 
> that then probably means either one of the dimms is abd or cpu is aflty....as i have read dimm is more likely to be the Problem, do you know a way to find out if the cpu has a Problem with 4 dimms?
> also, i still have no idea if you can see my rig-specs on the botom of my Posts, i´m still trying to find out how to do thatdropdown-thing...
> would it make sense to ride on 3 dimms making 12GB out of it?
> Btw:just tried out your idea with the stock cooler on top of the vrm heatsin, works great, gives me another 6°C headroom on Vcore temps...Thanx:thumb:
> this thread is awesome,gives me great insight,without it i couldn´t get apst anything over2 min prime almost melting my Little bulli


I can see your Sig now.
So Corasir Vengeance Low Profile 1600Mhz - 9-9-9-24 2T @ 1.5v

You should be able to run 4 sticks of that ram with no issues at 1600Mhz. It's only if you're trying to run 4 sticks at 1866Mhz or above that you might have to tweak other voltages.

I would first try running 4 sticks with the CPU at stock settings. Run 5 passes of Intel Burn Test on Maximum. If that passes, then try it again with your overclocked settings. Watch the temperatures though, cause IBT can run hot. If it fails, then try increasing the CPU/NB voltage to around 1.25v and retry.


----------



## fohtecki

bad News...just finished running memtest on all of the ram-sticks individually and when i got to the fourth one it had 1227 Errors after about 7 seconds...guess thats my luck,couldn´t have been the first or second one i tested, had to be dramaticlyTHE LAST








i´ll run three till i find out if the guy at the shop will give me a replacement or if i have to send it to corsair or so, its running perfect with three on 4,0, think i´ll eave it that way.
thank anyways, Keep up the good work


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fohtecki*
> 
> bad News...just finished running memtest on all of the ram-sticks individually and when i got to the fourth one it had 1227 Errors after about 7 seconds...guess thats my luck,couldn´t have been the first or second one i tested, had to be dramaticlyTHE LAST
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i´ll run three till i find out if the guy at the shop will give me a replacement or if i have to send it to corsair or so, its running perfect with three on 4,0, think i´ll eave it that way.
> thank anyways, Keep up the good work


Glad you got it sorted out. That's too bad that one was faulty, it makes for a bad experience. Of course it would be the last one you test, that's just how things go


----------



## Lagpirate

This is exactly the kind of guide I've been looking for! I've been having a hell of a time trying to overclock my 8120, as soon as I get home I'm gonna try following your guide and see if I can't get where I want! Thanks in advance!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> This is exactly the kind of guide I've been looking for! I've been having a hell of a time trying to overclock my 8120, as soon as I get home I'm gonna try following your guide and see if I can't get where I want! Thanks in advance!


Glad to help. Please write here again when you get your desired overclock. I'm interested how far you can get with that CPU cooler. You have a nice Rig.


----------



## Lagpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Glad to help. Please write here again when you get your desired overclock. I'm interested how far you can get with that CPU cooler. You have a nice Rig.


Hey I appreciate the compliment. I'm actually using a cm hyper 212+ for my CPU cooler now, and I also have a gtx 690. That's primarily the reason I am trying to oc my CPU because it is bottling my gpu pretty bad.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> Hey I appreciate the compliment. I'm actually using a cm hyper 212+ for my CPU cooler now, and I also have a gtx 690. That's primarily the reason I am trying to oc my CPU because it is bottling my gpu pretty bad.


Wow, a 690 eh. Hopefully you can get into the 4.5-4.6Ghz range to push it more. I don't think there's a CPU that doesn't bottleneck a 690 in some way or another.


----------



## Lagpirate

Yea I'm having a hard time even getting a stable overclock at all. I'm starting to think maybe my chip or mobo is defective. Basically here's the deal: I followed your instructions/recommended settings and while my thermals are all staying within range, I'm having some HEAVY downclocking. My target overclock was 3.5ghz and my CPU would downclock all the way down to 2.8(less than stock clocks) it mostly stays at 2.8 but will occasionally jump to 3.1-3.5ghz. My voltages are just as erratic. Jumping from 1.25v all the way up to 1.42v and constantly changing (according to HWmonitor and CPU-Z). So, knowing that this wasn't normal, I reset everything to optimized defaults. And out of curiosity, I ran prime on stock settings while monitoring my temps and voltages, I noticed that it is still downclocking to 2.8 and sometimes lower.. And while idling, it does the same thing, only the clock speed will sometimes go up to 4.0 and my multipliers are changing. So, what the heck is going on! I'm starting to think I have a defective mobo/chip. What do you think?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> Yea I'm having a hard time even getting a stable overclock at all. I'm starting to think maybe my chip or mobo is defective. Basically here's the deal: I followed your instructions/recommended settings and while my thermals are all staying within range, I'm having some HEAVY downclocking. My target overclock was 3.5ghz and my CPU would downclock all the way down to 2.8(less than stock clocks) it mostly stays at 2.8 but will occasionally jump to 3.1-3.5ghz. My voltages are just as erratic. Jumping from 1.25v all the way up to 1.42v and constantly changing (according to HWmonitor and CPU-Z). So, knowing that this wasn't normal, I reset everything to optimized defaults. And out of curiosity, I ran prime on stock settings while monitoring my temps and voltages, I noticed that it is still downclocking to 2.8 and sometimes lower.. And while idling, it does the same thing, only the clock speed will sometimes go up to 4.0 and my multipliers are changing. So, what the heck is going on! I'm starting to think I have a defective mobo/chip. What do you think?


The power saving features will reduce the cpu clock multiplier even under load in order to save power and reduce thermals. It will do this even if the temps are good. You can disable all the power saving features and then enable HPC mode (I'm not sure if the Version 1.0 Sabertooths have that, but if not that's ok)
Then increase your Overclock and re-test. If that's the case I will probably make that recommendation to disable those in the guide. At least until the highest stable overclock is achieved, because of the confusion it causes.


----------



## Lagpirate

Okay so I disabled all power saving features and enabled HPC and manually set my CPU voltage from auto to its stock setting at 1.36v and now I am getting no erratic voltage or multiplier changes, even under load. However I ran prime on my stock core speed of 3.1 and my core temps quickly rose past the 61c threshold. I stopped the test right away. My temps never got this hot, this fast. It is a relief that my multiplier isn't so erratic anymore, as I was beginning to think my chip was defective, but now I am concerned with my temps. They are a little concerning, any tips on how to cool it down? Otherwise I have 0 overclocking headroom. :/


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> Okay so I disabled all power saving features and enabled HPC and manually set my CPU voltage from auto to its stock setting at 1.36v and now I am getting no erratic voltage or multiplier changes, even under load. However I ran prime on my stock core speed of 3.1 and my core temps quickly rose past the 61c threshold. I stopped the test right away. My temps never got this hot, this fast. It is a relief that my multiplier isn't so erratic anymore, as I was beginning to think my chip was defective, but now I am concerned with my temps. They are a little concerning, any tips on how to cool it down? Otherwise I have 0 overclocking headroom. :/


Are you going by the CPU temp through Asus Suite? Asus Suite lists the Socket Temp as CPU Temp.
(Which can actually reach over 70 Celsius)

I'd recommend using a program like HWMonitor which will have a listing for Package Temp in order to monitor Core Temps.

You should be getting ok temperatures with the CM 212, as even the Stock AMD cooler will keep decent temps at 3.1Ghz. (~50 Celsius)


----------



## aditrex

how did you disable all power saving i have same problem with that my core is normaly 3,3 and drop to 1,4mhz that is not normal


----------



## Lagpirate

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Are you going by the CPU temp through Asus Suite? Asus Suite lists the Socket Temp as CPU Temp.
> (Which can actually reach over 70 Celsius)
> 
> I'd recommend using a program like HWMonitor which will have a listing for Package Temp in order to monitor Core Temps.
> 
> You should be getting ok temperatures with the CM 212, as even the Stock AMD cooler will keep decent temps at 3.1Ghz. (~50 Celsius)


Yeah I am going by H.W. monitor, Reading the Core temps. That's why it is so alarming, Do you think I could try turning my voltages down? Is there anything else I can do to reduce my thermals?


----------



## MrPerforations

hello,
I posted guide on other thread, push pull your air cooler, then save up 200 for a water cooling kit, like an xspc kit.


----------



## BillyBonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Oh I see, 4.4Ghz is a nice overclock. You're right, it's around the point where you start to really boost the voltage needed for stability, so definately a good choice.
> 
> You will have to read my FSB + Turbo section to find out what will happen when you enable Turbo while using the FSB to Overclock.
> 
> It is a good idea to enable Cool'n'Quiet once you have your overclock. That way it will drop the voltage and frequency when idle, so save heat and power.


Just wanted to let you know that my rig is working strong, I enabled the turbo core. It bumped my voltage to 1.4++. Temps are ok since I left the cool n' quiet enabled. Ran Cinebench single core and got a 1.10 score on single thread much better than when I first tested is stock. My gaming experience has been good, my OS and programs are running great. Guess now I will experiment with virtual machine and load a Linux. Thanks for all the tips, it must have taken you time to get to the templates to start our overclock from, which everyone in this awesome thread is enjoying. By the way, for those who do not have use for the stock AMD heat sink, I used the fan to cool the VRMs


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Yes, the M5A boards are a lot more work. To reach 4.7ghz on mine, I installed a 60mm fan on top of the VRM heatsink. I also cut a hole in the back panel for a 120mm fan to blow air directly at the CPU socket. The CPU socket which is directly linked to the VRM's doesn't like to run over 70 Celsius, or you see throttling and instability.
> 
> Cost wise, I would have chosen the Evo 2.0 over the Pro 2.0. They Evo has the same power delivery system, for much less. As I wasn't running SLI or Crossfire I didn't need the 16x 16x PCIe lanes compared to 16x 8x, not that it would make a huge difference.
> 
> The Sabertooth has superior cooling in that regard. For the most part it will keep the Core and Socket temps almost equal, during stress testing, so if you will be fine unless your CPU is running too hot.
> 
> The advantage of the Crosshair V Formula is the Extreme Digi engine for power delivery.
> The advantage of the Crosshair V Formula-Z is the Extreme Digi II engine for power delivery.


Im currently passing full fft's at 4.8ghz with my evo 2 but voltage is 1.510 no cooling fan on vrm's sockets at 62 & core 54 cpuid chowing cpuvcore at 1.524 all this with case open and a thermalright silver arrow extreme, waiting on a new case to fit the third ty - 143 fan and see if i can use my stock cooling fan to aid the vrm's...... will have to blend test tomorrow and also update my rig in signature as i only got my cooler today and board a few weeks ago
Btw my chips an fx 6300


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lagpirate*
> 
> Yeah I am going by H.W. monitor, Reading the Core temps. That's why it is so alarming, Do you think I could try turning my voltages down? Is there anything else I can do to reduce my thermals?


Sorry for the delayed post.

There must be something wrong with the seating of that CPU cooler to have that high of a temp. I'd recommend taking it off, cleaning both surfaces with Rubbing Alcohol and then re-seating the cooler using the Pea Sized TIM method.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> Just wanted to let you know that my rig is working strong, I enabled the turbo core. It bumped my voltage to 1.4++. Temps are ok since I left the cool n' quiet enabled. Ran Cinebench single core and got a 1.10 score on single thread much better than when I first tested is stock. My gaming experience has been good, my OS and programs are running great. Guess now I will experiment with virtual machine and load a Linux. Thanks for all the tips, it must have taken you time to get to the templates to start our overclock from, which everyone in this awesome thread is enjoying. By the way, for those who do not have use for the stock AMD heat sink, I used the fan to cool the VRMs


I'm glad it working well for you. These really are great processors to use. It did take a bit of trial and error to find what works well, and the guide still probably isn't perfect. I contacted Asus for more info about the more advanced settings, but "they don't offer Overclocking advice"








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Im currently passing full fft's at 4.8ghz with my evo 2 but voltage is 1.510 no cooling fan on vrm's sockets at 62 & core 54 cpuid chowing cpuvcore at 1.524 all this with case open and a thermalright silver arrow extreme, waiting on a new case to fit the third ty - 143 fan and see if i can use my stock cooling fan to aid the vrm's...... will have to blend test tomorrow and also update my rig in signature as i only got my cooler today and board a few weeks ago
> Btw my chips an fx 6300


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> Just wanted to let you know that my rig is working strong, I enabled the turbo core. It bumped my voltage to 1.4++. Temps are ok since I left the cool n' quiet enabled. Ran Cinebench single core and got a 1.10 score on single thread much better than when I first tested is stock. My gaming experience has been good, my OS and programs are running great. Guess now I will experiment with virtual machine and load a Linux. Thanks for all the tips, it must have taken you time to get to the templates to start our overclock from, which everyone in this awesome thread is enjoying. By the way, for those who do not have use for the stock AMD heat sink, I used the fan to cool the VRMs


Those are some great results. The Silver Arrow is an amazing Air Cooler.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Ive dropped it to 4.5Ghz, Im swapping cases later today as my Silver Arrow doesnt fit in this one, prime95 passes the small fft's for 10/15 mins on those settings above but didnt like the voltage being so high.

Whats the likelyhood of it degrading my chip at say 1.55v if my system is stable and temps are good?

Cant believe the guy at scan was trying to palm me off with a single 120mm rad water cooler from antec as a replacement for this Silver Arrow









EDIT***** Just validated and changed it in my sig


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Ive dropped it to 4.5Ghz, Im swapping cases later today as my Silver Arrow doesnt fit in this one, prime95 passes the small fft's for 10/15 mins on those settings above but didnt like the voltage being so high.
> 
> Whats the likelyhood of it degrading my chip at say 1.55v if my system is stable and temps are good?
> 
> Cant believe the guy at scan was trying to palm me off with a single 120mm rad water cooler from antec as a replacement for this Silver Arrow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT***** Just validated and changed it in my sig


I generally run my CPU in the 4.5-4.6Ghz range just because of the performance to power range is so nice. Most CPUs need large increases in voltage above that for small increases in frequency.

There are a couple members of the FX8320/8350 Club that have run 1.55v since release and they haven't seen any issues. This is with daily temps under 60 Celsius which is more important than max voltage. So I would say the likely hood is pretty low on degrading an AMD CPU as long as your temps are ok.


----------



## ComputerRestore

I did make some changes. Not sure how this post ended up over here though


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> About the Guide
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This Guide was created as a simplified method to Overclocking Bulldozer and Piledriver CPU's. I've listed the most important settings to change in order to reach stability, in order to take the guess work out.
> FSB Overclocking is not discussed, as it's not required with a Black Edition CPU. **But if you know about FSB Overclocking, you can just use what you learn here, and apply it to that method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Overclock at your own Risk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Software
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _Recommended Stress Tool is Prime95 Version 27.7 or newer_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Known bugs and fixes:
> 
> 1. *Does not work on AMD Bulldozer processors. Fixed in gwnum 27.5 (there will not be a prime95 27.5).*
> 2. Length 1280K FFT crashes on Pentium 4s with 512K L2 cache or less. Fixed in 27.6.
> 3. Hyperthread detection is not working properly. Fixed in 27.6.
> 4. The 6K 2^N-1 and 8K, 10K, 12K, 16K 2^N+1 AVX FFTs are missing. Fixed in 27.6.
> 5. Some exponents above 536 million generate roundoff errors and incorrect results. Fixed in 27.6.
> 6. FFT crossover points need retuning. Many can be more aggressive, but a few need to be more conservative. Fixed in 27.6.
> 
> 
> 
> Temperature Monitoring
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> HW Monitor -
> _Package Temps, aka Core Temp (62C Max)_
> _CPU Temp, aka Socket Temp (70C Max)_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Tweaker Settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Auto, Manual, DOCP
> CPU Ratio - Adjusts the CPU Clock Multiplier (CPU Multi x FSB = CPU Speed)
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disable in order to manually Overclock the CPU
> CPU Bus Frequency - A.K.A. FSB. This adjusts the base clock for, HTT, NB, CPU, DRAM.
> PCIe Bus Frequency - Defaults to 100, not recommended to change, as it may damage GPU/HDD.
> Memory Frequency - Adjust the Memory Divider. (DRAM Divider x FSB = DRAM Speed)
> CPU/NB Frequency - Adjust the CPU/NB Divider - Defaults to 2000-2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - Adjust the HT Link Divider - Defaults to 2600Mhz
> CPU Spread Spectrum - Disable - to increase overclock stability
> PCIe Spread Spectrum - Disable - to increase overclock stability
> EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
> CPU & NB Voltage - Offset and Manual Mode - Change to Manual Mode for Overclocking
> CPU Manual Voltage - ** Available under Manual Mode - Adjust the CPU voltage
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - ** Available under Manual Mode - Adjust the CPU/NB voltage (IMC)
> CPU VDDA Voltage - Default 2.5v. Higher setting 2.695v will stabilize voltages under load but increases temps. Lower setting 2.2v will lower temps.
> DRAM Voltage - Adjust the voltage for DRAM. Default 1.5v
> NB Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the North Bridge Chipset on the motherboard - Default 1.1v
> NB HT Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the Hyper Transport - Default 1.2v
> NB 1.8V Voltage - Adjust the voltage for the Chipset/CPU Multiplier. Higher multi requires more voltage
> SB Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the South Bridge Default 1.1v
> 
> AI Tweaker Image - Recommended Settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DIGI+ Power Control & CPU Configuration
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _Wiki: The AM3+ Socket offers improved power regulation and power quality specifications, including an increased maximum current support of 145 A versus 110 A._
> 
> DIGI+
> 
> CPU LLC - Adjust CPU LLC. Recommended - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Adjust CPU/NB LLC. Recommended - High (50%)
> CPU Current Capability - Sets the Maximum Current Support. Recommended 130% for 143A
> CPU/NB Current Capability - Sets the Maximum Current Support. Recommended 130%
> _Note: Raising the Maximum Current Support does not make the CPU draw more Current. It just allows it to scale properly with voltage, to prevent Overvolting. Watts = Volts x Amps_
> CPU Power Phase Control - Sets the Phase Control. Extreme helps stability, but increases thermals
> CPU Voltage Frequency - More testing required
> VRM Spread Spectrum - Enabled runs in reduced EMI Mode.
> CPU Power Duty Control - Extreme gives better stability, but higher thermals. T-Probe tested to 4.7Ghz
> CPU Power Response Control - Recommended Auto
> CPU/NB Power Response Control -Recommended Auto
> CPU Power Thermal Control - 130 Tested to 4.7Ghz (not sure what this effects)
> DRAM Current Capability - Set higher Capability for higher frequencies
> DRAM Voltage Frequency - more testing required
> DRAM Power Phase Control - Extreme gives better stability but higher thermals. Recommend - Optimal
> Advanced Tab
> 
> Cool'n'Quiet - Always Enabled will lower frequency of Cores under load.
> Recommend - Always Disabled - or Always Enabled once your Overclock is fine tuned.
> C1E - Enhanced Halt State. Lowers Power Consumption - Recommend - Disabled while testing Overclock (Enabled - Once fine tuned)
> SVM - Virtual Machine - Recommend - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Effects Overclock. Recommend - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Recommended - Enabled - Prevents Throttling when Socket Temp gets high. (In some cases it may cause freezing - if this occurs its recommended to disable)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled - (Set to Auto once Overclock is fine tuned)
> DIGI+ & CPU Config Image
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to expect from your CPU Cooler
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tricks to Keep things Cool
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Whether you are using a closed loop water cooler or air cooling, here are some trick to lower temps even more.
> 
> You can use the Stock CPU Cooler fan, with some double sided foam tape and either stick the fan to the case, or stick it to the Close Loop Cooler block, so that it is positioned blowing down over the VRM heatsink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another way to lower Socket and VRM Temps is to install a fan behind the motherboard so that it is blowing on CPU Socket. All the components link at the socket, so if you can move heat from it, it will help with overall cooling.


----------



## Krusher33

Did you make changes or something?

I started playing with my RAM overclock lately and somehow lost my stable 5 ghz. Personally I think it has to do with touching the DOCP thingy. I might reset CMOS tonight and try to get my 5 ghz back.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Did you make changes or something?
> 
> I started playing with my RAM overclock lately and somehow lost my stable 5 ghz. Personally I think it has to do with touching the DOCP thingy. I might reset CMOS tonight and try to get my 5 ghz back.


Ive saved my 4.5Ghz clock in the bios, i have the ability to save up to 6 i think, i saved my 4.8 clock too but at 1.52v and not yet full prime tested i was reluctant to keep it, might have a play later see what i can hit max then drop it back to 4.5 again, i dont really need it above stock, just thought id get a feel for oc'ing so I can start selling oc systems and be comfortable doing it


----------



## Krusher33

I'm sort of old fashioned in not saving the BIOS settings. I kinda wished I did though.


----------



## ComputerRestore

I did make some changes to the guide. Just update the Recommended Settings to have the Power Saving Features disabled as it was creating some confusion with the voltages and frequency fluctuating while stress testing.

No big breakthroughs on how to reach 6.0Ghz or anything like that


----------



## Hicuty12

Hello;

Im trying to oc my fx 6300 cpu, now im at 4.7 ghz with 1.404 vcore. Disabled 2 cores to reach highter clocks. Im using recommended settings of Bios. My mb is Asus M5a99x evo R2 and my cooler is Xigmatec Balder SD 1283.

The thing is my cpu core temperature is very near to cpu temp which are 47 celc and 48 celc respectively (under load prime blend test). Sometimes it even passes the cpu temp.

Is it normal or is something wrong? Using Hwmonitor to check temps btw

thks


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hicuty12*
> 
> Hello;
> 
> Im trying to oc my fx 6300 cpu, now im at 4.7 ghz with 1.404 vcore. Disabled 2 cores to reach highter clocks. Im using recommended settings of Bios. My mb is Asus M5a99x evo R2 and my cooler is Xigmatec Balder SD 1283.
> 
> The thing is my cpu core temperature is very near to cpu temp which are 47 celc and 48 celc respectively (under load prime blend test). Sometimes it even passes the cpu temp.
> 
> Is it normal or is something wrong? Using Hwmonitor to check temps btw
> 
> thks


This is normal. Socket Temps are much lower on 6 and 4 Core FX CPUs, compared to the 8 Core versions. The Socket Temp is more related to the amount of Current Draw the CPU is doing as the Socket is directly linked to the VRMs.


----------



## Hicuty12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> This is normal. Socket Temps are much lower on 6 and 4 Core FX CPUs, compared to the 8 Core versions. The Socket Temp is more related to the amount of Current Draw the CPU is doing as the Socket is directly linked to the VRMs.


k thks

how much shall i push it in terms of heat? I increased the vcore 1.416 now as it failed in test. Is it safe under 60 celc for my cpu im getting 51 celc core now with this vcore.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hicuty12*
> 
> k thks
> 
> how much shall i push it in terms of heat? I increased the vcore 1.416 now as it failed in test. Is it safe under 60 celc for my cpu im getting 51 celc core now with this vcore.


Safe temps are under 62 Celsius on the Core and around 72 Celsius on the socket. So you have lots of room to work with.


----------



## azrael36

nice I just got the sabertooth 990FX, ths will come in handy! subbed


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hicuty12*
> 
> Hello;
> 
> Im trying to oc my fx 6300 cpu, now im at 4.7 ghz with 1.404 vcore. Disabled 2 cores to reach highter clocks. Im using recommended settings of Bios. My mb is Asus M5a99x evo R2 and my cooler is Xigmatec Balder SD 1283.
> 
> The thing is my cpu core temperature is very near to cpu temp which are 47 celc and 48 celc respectively (under load prime blend test). Sometimes it even passes the cpu temp.
> 
> Is it normal or is something wrong? Using Hwmonitor to check temps btw
> 
> thks


I use core temp to monitor temps and hw monitor, then if theres a major difference i know somethings not reading right


----------



## dorian101

Le me stress testing:


not a minute passed after uploading this image and two of my cores crashed
i guess i need help figuring out what im doing wrong voltage wise.
also can you please tell me if you think my temp's are acceptable or am i right on the limit, for this was a very short test and it jumped up pretty quickly.
(check out rig for more details)

Thanks in advance and please tell me if you need more details on bios settings etc'.


----------



## aas88keyz

Thank you so much for this guide. I have worked with other guides and along with my past experience and with all the work I've done over and over again I have never been so successful with my cpu oc. I had only been able to get my fx-8120 to 4200MHz and that was way too hot. So I had to drop it down to 4100MHz. Your guide, with just a few difference in settings than what I have done, has got me to 4400MHz. Huge accomplishment. I have stuck with multiplier ocing with the bulldozer for the most part but on my AMD's in the past I always did a little of the multiplier and fsb combination. I still would like to stick with multiplier ocing. I so want to make it to 4.5GHz but my 7th core keeps crashing.

the most interesting difference in my success is my temps. My sockets temp has always been at least 12*C higher than my cores. while my cores maxed at 61*C my socket would reach 73*C and higher at 4.2 GHz . I have always heard that a way to solve this is adding a fan blowing on the back side of the cpu but wouldn't find one thinking it had to be a certain size that I couldn't find locally. You mentioned the solution of using the fan from the cpu heatsink. It was just that easy to get a perfect fit. I have it attached to my right side case blowing right on the cpu and my socket temps have dropped below my cores by 4 to 6*C at full load. The cores are hotter than the socket again! Cores would reach 61*C while at full load with my socket at 55*C. I now have 17 degrees from the 72*C max on my socket that you suggested I should leave.. I have another cpu f&hs. If I can fit it under the H80 fans and radiator and force that air on my vrms will this give me anymore stability to make another 100MHz to a 4.5GHz? If I could get my FX-8120 to 4.5 GHz I promised myself I wouldn't work any further to get higher. I would probably work more on stability and drop some voltage if I got to that goal.

Also could you give me more details about this setting you mentioned in op:

"NB 1.8V Voltage - Adjust the voltage for the Chipset/CPU Multiplier. Higher multi requires more voltage"

How many increments and what would be that max voltage for that? I would like to see if this could get me to 4.5 GHz too. Again thanks for the help to get this far and you can bet I will vote yes to your poll.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dorian101*
> 
> Le me stress testing:





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> not a minute passed after uploading this image and two of my cores crashed
> i guess i need help figuring out what im doing wrong voltage wise.
> also can you please tell me if you think my temp's are acceptable or am i right on the limit, for this was a very short test and it jumped up pretty quickly.
> (check out rig for more details)
> 
> Thanks in advance and please tell me if you need more details on bios settings etc'.






Nice Overclock Dorian101. It looks like you will be at the limit of your CPU cooler with 4.8Ghz.
You should start by increasing the cpu voltage a few notches and then re-trying. Between 4.8-5.0Ghz is where most of the FX 8350's start to require a lot more voltage to keep stable.

You can also try increasing the CPU/NB voltage a couple notches as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Thank you so much for this guide.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> I have worked with other guides and along with my past experience and with all the work I've done over and over again I have never been so successful with my cpu oc. I had only been able to get my fx-8120 to 4200MHz and that was way too hot. So I had to drop it down to 4100MHz. Your guide, with just a few difference in settings than what I have done, has got me to 4400MHz. Huge accomplishment. I have stuck with multiplier ocing with the bulldozer for the most part but on my AMD's in the past I always did a little of the multiplier and fsb combination. I still would like to stick with multiplier ocing. I so want to make it to 4.5GHz but my 7th core keeps crashing.
> 
> the most interesting difference in my success is my temps. My sockets temp has always been at least 12*C higher than my cores. while my cores maxed at 61*C my socket would reach 73*C and higher at 4.2 GHz . I have always heard that a way to solve this is adding a fan blowing on the back side of the cpu but wouldn't find one thinking it had to be a certain size that I couldn't find locally. You mentioned the solution of using the fan from the cpu heatsink. It was just that easy to get a perfect fit. I have it attached to my right side case blowing right on the cpu and my socket temps have dropped below my cores by 4 to 6*C at full load. The cores are hotter than the socket again! Cores would reach 61*C while at full load with my socket at 55*C. I now have 17 degrees from the 72*C max on my socket that you suggested I should leave.. I have another cpu f&hs. If I can fit it under the H80 fans and radiator and force that air on my vrms will this give me anymore stability to make another 100MHz to a 4.5GHz? If I could get my FX-8120 to 4.5 GHz I promised myself I wouldn't work any further to get higher. I would probably work more on stability and drop some voltage if I got to that goal.
> 
> Also could you give me more details about this setting you mentioned in op:
> 
> "NB 1.8V Voltage - Adjust the voltage for the Chipset/CPU Multiplier. Higher multi requires more voltage"
> 
> How many increments and what would be that max voltage for that? I would like to see if this could get me to 4.5 GHz too. Again thanks for the help to get this far and you can bet I will vote yes to your poll.





Hi aas88keyz,

it's amazing how much that fan drops the socket temps, glad it worked well for you. I would recommend putting a fan over the VRM's as well, because the cooler you can keep them, the more effecient they are. It may not make as large of a difference on the CHV board because it has such a nice heatsink, but if you have a fan, why not.

For an 8 Core FX, it's very unusual to have the Socket Temp lower than the Core Temp, even with cooling on the socket and the VRM's. This leads me to suspect that maybe your H80 isn't seated properly on the CPU, or the airflow through the radiator is not working well. By addressing that possible issue, you should be able to reach 4.5-4.6Ghz with your Overclock.

About NB 1.8v - This is more for using Liquid Nitrogen to reach extreme Overclocks. For air or water you should leave it at 1.8v.


----------



## aas88keyz

Sorry took so long to get back to you but I have been creating headaches for myself. I don't remember all the details but I did as suggested and reseated my waterblock... 3 times! LOL. Anyway, when I took off the water block of the H80 I did notice that the TIM wasn't spread evenly. Probably cause it was so thick and I might have been in a hurry and just dabbed a little in the center like in the olden days. The system must have been running half way decent though cause it didn't overheat that bad in the few months after I seated it the last time. 1st time I tried to reseat yesterday the temps were much higher and not capable of a stable 4.4 GHz I had before then. When I removed it I could see where all the bubbles were. 2nd time was with a rubber glove i tried to smooth it over with lightly. kept sticking to my glove though and I think I had too thin a layer. As soon as I stressed it took seconds to overheat and crash Prime. 3rd time, before I went to bed I tried two thin lines of TIM, seated the heatsink and glided once forward and back and again left and right. I haven't stressed it yet but idle temps are a lot better. for core and socket. I did place another fan on the vrms below my radiator. can't tell if it helps or not. Not that I could see the temps on it but on my Crosshair the heatsinks on the vrms don't usually get hot to the touch for me but doesn't hurt. I do think that it makes it a little more stable but I might be wishful thinking. I will let you know what my stress tests come up with with my newest reseat of the waterblock.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Sorry took so long to get back to you but I have been creating headaches for myself. I don't remember all the details but I did as suggested and reseated my waterblock... 3 times! LOL. Anyway, when I took off the water block of the H80 I did notice that the TIM wasn't spread evenly. Probably cause it was so thick and I might have been in a hurry and just dabbed a little in the center like in the olden days. The system must have been running half way decent though cause it didn't overheat that bad in the few months after I seated it the last time. 1st time I tried to reseat yesterday the temps were much higher and not capable of a stable 4.4 GHz I had before then. When I removed it I could see where all the bubbles were. 2nd time was with a rubber glove i tried to smooth it over with lightly. kept sticking to my glove though and I think I had too thin a layer. As soon as I stressed it took seconds to overheat and crash Prime. 3rd time, before I went to bed I tried two thin lines of TIM, seated the heatsink and glided once forward and back and again left and right. I haven't stressed it yet but idle temps are a lot better. for core and socket. I did place another fan on the vrms below my radiator. can't tell if it helps or not. Not that I could see the temps on it but on my Crosshair the heatsinks on the vrms don't usually get hot to the touch for me but doesn't hurt. I do think that it makes it a little more stable but I might be wishful thinking. I will let you know what my stress tests come up with with my newest reseat of the waterblock.


Hopefully it turns out well. I set up my FX 8150 to give you an idea of what to expect. (Most 8120's can Overclock the same as 8150's)





Here's a 5 minute run of Prime with this above cooler. It's nothing fancy. You'll have to look at the Maximum Temps because Prime was already ended before the screenshot was taken.

Couple Things About the H80


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Pea Size amount of Thermal Paste right in the center of the CPU works well to get even coverage. Let the pressure of the H80 waterblock spread the thermal paste to prevent air pockets.

Tightening the H80 Block too much can cause high temps and poor performance.



The Water Block should be tightned evenly or you'll end up with the above issue.

Make sure the Rad Fans are plugged into the headers of the Water Block, then the speed can be controlled by the button on the water block.

Radiator Fan Placement
Intake - Fans are set up push/pull drawing air into the case. Other case fans should be set up to blow air out of the case to create a negative pressure, to improve CPU cooling.
Exhaust - Fans are set up push/pull drawing air out of the case. Other case fans should be set up to draw air into the case to create a positive pressure, to improve CPU cooling.



Hope that's helpful.


----------



## aas88keyz

I lost most all stability along with higher core temps. This 3rd time reseating the cpu I finally dropped the temps of core and socket where they used to be. Except then I was at 4.4 GHz and no higher than 55*C on either socket or core. Now I am forcing a 4.3GHz oc and barely getting my cores in at 61*C and socket 55*C. I don't know if I am failing miserably with the TIM or what but I was doing a lot better when I was following your guide in the beginning and then I started messing with things trying to get to a golden overclock (to me atleast) of 4.5GHz. I don't know how much of my TIM I have left and yes I know it only takes the smallest amount but I was just not getting it to spread evenly. I don't know if I should try a reseat again and see how it was spread or accept what I have now. With the temps that I have now do I have the chance to get considerably cooler with reseating once or twice more? I never had this trouble before but I think the difference is the consistency with the TIM. I had more liquidly TIM in the past and now the stuff I have is real thick. though it had a good review. What do you think?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> 
> 
> I lost most all stability along with higher core temps. This 3rd time reseating the cpu I finally dropped the temps of core and socket where they used to be. Except then I was at 4.4 GHz and no higher than 55*C on either socket or core. Now I am forcing a 4.3GHz oc and barely getting my cores in at 61*C and socket 55*C. I don't know if I am failing miserably with the TIM or what but I was doing a lot better when I was following your guide in the beginning and then I started messing with things trying to get to a golden overclock (to me atleast) of 4.5GHz. I don't know how much of my TIM I have left and yes I know it only takes the smallest amount but I was just not getting it to spread evenly. I don't know if I should try a reseat again and see how it was spread or accept what I have now. With the temps that I have now do I have the chance to get considerably cooler with reseating once or twice more? I never had this trouble before but I think the difference is the consistency with the TIM. I had more liquidly TIM in the past and now the stuff I have is real thick. though it had a good review. What do you think?


It may just be a TIM issue then. If it's really thick it must not be spreading well when you put the water block on.

I'd recommend MX-4 or Artic Silver 5. Hopefully that and following the info above will get your results.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> 
> 
> I lost most all stability along with higher core temps. This 3rd time reseating the cpu I finally dropped the temps of core and socket where they used to be. Except then I was at 4.4 GHz and no higher than 55*C on either socket or core. Now I am forcing a 4.3GHz oc and barely getting my cores in at 61*C and socket 55*C. I don't know if I am failing miserably with the TIM or what but I was doing a lot better when I was following your guide in the beginning and then I started messing with things trying to get to a golden overclock (to me atleast) of 4.5GHz. I don't know how much of my TIM I have left and yes I know it only takes the smallest amount but I was just not getting it to spread evenly. I don't know if I should try a reseat again and see how it was spread or accept what I have now. With the temps that I have now do I have the chance to get considerably cooler with reseating once or twice more? I never had this trouble before but I think the difference is the consistency with the TIM. I had more liquidly TIM in the past and now the stuff I have is real thick. though it had a good review. What do you think?


wow my thermalright sb-e extreme is allowing me 4.5ghz with lower temps, yeah arctic silver is good, although I used ceramique ii, quite thick mix, used thermalrights tim that came with the cooler for this build, 3 rice grain sized amounts on cooler plate and same on cpu then used a plastic card (library not bank but same material and thickness) to spread into a thin layer on both cpu and cooler, this makes sure its smooth and evenly spread, then seated the cooler, no need to remove to check spread as you have made sure there is an even coating with the card, hope this helps


----------



## allavett

Hello,
I'm new in the forum.
I have been trying to OC my FX-8350 for a week and a half now, but can't seem to be able to get any good results with low CPU Voltage
Have tried using only multiplier and also FSB - has not made any difference. 4,6GHz gets stable around 1,45V and 4,7GHz needs ~1,5V.
Stock CPU Voltage is around 1.37V.
I'll add some pictures with my latest settings.


If I decrease Vcore by one point 7th or 8th core will fail in prime within 2 hours.
I hope somebody can help me or will atleast say that my chip is that bad and I should stop trying


----------



## 1Lt Bob

Dont worry, on my chip i need 1.53v to be stable at 4.7, and around 1.57 for 4.8


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allavett*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm new in the forum.
> I have been trying to OC my FX-8350 for a week and a half now, but can't seem to be able to get any good results with low CPU Voltage
> Have tried using only multiplier and also FSB - has not made any difference. 4,6GHz gets stable around 1,45V and 4,7GHz needs ~1,5V.
> Stock CPU Voltage is around 1.37V.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I'll add some pictures with my latest settings.
> 
> 
> 
> If I decrease Vcore by one point 7th or 8th core will fail in prime within 2 hours.
> I hope somebody can help me or will atleast say that my chip is that bad and I should stop trying


Hopefully I can help you. I see you have a lot of voltages changed and your HTT and CPU/NB are under spec.

1st - Load Optimal Defaults
2nd - See how high you can Overclock just using the CPU Multi on stock voltages using Ultra High LLC.
You can disable all the power saving features and all that, but just leave HTT and CPU/NB on Auto Settings and Auto Voltages.

Test using Prime Small FFT. Just 10 mintues between tests is ok for now.


----------



## allavett

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Lt Bob*
> 
> Dont worry, on my chip i need 1.53v to be stable at 4.7, and around 1.57 for 4.8


Thank you for comforting








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hopefully I can help you. I see you have a lot of voltages changed and your HTT and CPU/NB are under spec.
> 
> 1st - Load Optimal Defaults
> 2nd - See how high you can Overclock just using the CPU Multi on stock voltages using Ultra High LLC.
> You can disable all the power saving features and all that, but just leave HTT and CPU/NB on Auto Settings and Auto Voltages.
> 
> Test using Prime Small FFT. Just 10 mintues between tests is ok for now.


Ok, did some testing with the following settings:

With stock (1.368750) voltage I was able to run 10 minutes of Prime95 Small FFT up to 4,5GHz. For 4,6GHz I had to up the voltage to 1,393750 (1,404V in CPU-Z). To have 4,7GHz stable in prime small FFT I had to use 1,43750 volts (1,440V in CPU-Z). After running 10 minutes of prime small FFT I tried to run blend, 7th or 8th core failed immediatlly.
Tested same volts with my own settings (previously posted) and got same results. Did not try to get CPU prime95 blend stable takes damn long time. But I have the feeling, it goes the same as it has been before (4,5GHz needs ~1,42V; 4,6GHz needs ~1,46V; 4,7GHz needs ~1,5V).

Will gladly try something new, if you've got some ideas


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> 
> 
> I lost most all stability along with higher core temps. This 3rd time reseating the cpu I finally dropped the temps of core and socket where they used to be. Except then I was at 4.4 GHz and no higher than 55*C on either socket or core. Now I am forcing a 4.3GHz oc and barely getting my cores in at 61*C and socket 55*C. I don't know if I am failing miserably with the TIM or what but I was doing a lot better when I was following your guide in the beginning and then I started messing with things trying to get to a golden overclock (to me atleast) of 4.5GHz. I don't know how much of my TIM I have left and yes I know it only takes the smallest amount but I was just not getting it to spread evenly. I don't know if I should try a reseat again and see how it was spread or accept what I have now. With the temps that I have now do I have the chance to get considerably cooler with reseating once or twice more? I never had this trouble before but I think the difference is the consistency with the TIM. I had more liquidly TIM in the past and now the stuff I have is real thick. though it had a good review. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> wow my thermalright sb-e extreme is allowing me 4.5ghz with lower temps, yeah arctic silver is good, although I used ceramique ii, quite thick mix, used thermalrights tim that came with the cooler for this build, 3 rice grain sized amounts on cooler plate and same on cpu then used a plastic card (library not bank but same material and thickness) to spread into a thin layer on both cpu and cooler, this makes sure its smooth and evenly spread, then seated the cooler, no need to remove to check spread as you have made sure there is an even coating with the card, hope this helps
Click to expand...

Ok. Duh moment for me... I spaced on the card application. Never done it that way before but I should with the stuff I am using. You totally make sense cause your absolutely right. That is worth a try right away though I will have to pause my boinc crunching from the BOINCers Gone Bonkers event. I will let you all know. I will rep you later.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Ok. Duh moment for me... I spaced on the card application. Never done it that way before but I should with the stuff I am using. You totally make sense cause your absolutely right. That is worth a try right away though I will have to pause my boinc crunching from the BOINCers Gone Bonkers event. I will let you all know. I will rep you later.


Lol


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allavett*
> 
> Thank you for comforting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, did some testing with the following settings:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With stock (1.368750) voltage I was able to run 10 minutes of Prime95 Small FFT up to 4,5GHz. For 4,6GHz I had to up the voltage to 1,393750 (1,404V in CPU-Z). To have 4,7GHz stable in prime small FFT I had to use 1,43750 volts (1,440V in CPU-Z). After running 10 minutes of prime small FFT I tried to run blend, 7th or 8th core failed immediatlly.
> Tested same volts with my own settings (previously posted) and got same results. Did not try to get CPU prime95 blend stable takes damn long time. But I have the feeling, it goes the same as it has been before (4,5GHz needs ~1,42V; 4,6GHz needs ~1,46V; 4,7GHz needs ~1,5V).
> 
> Will gladly try something new, if you've got some ideas


Your voltages running small FFT are right in line with where they should be. You should be able to run Blend at near the same voltages as well.
A couple things to try:
- Make sure you have a current version of Prime95 - 27.7 or newer
- Increase the CPU/NB voltage a little 1.25-1.35v

If Core 7/8 still fail, if it's just a sumout error (xxx was expected, cpu returned xxy) then you can adjust either DRAM VREFDQ or DRAM VREFCA, I can't remember which one, you'll have to do a bit of research. But you can either raise or lower the value so that the CPU returns correct results, without having to increase the cpu voltage.

So basically, you have a very weak 4th module, so you'll have to tweak those settings to keep the voltage down.


----------



## allavett

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Your voltages running small FFT are right in line with where they should be. You should be able to run Blend at near the same voltages as well.
> A couple things to try:
> - Make sure you have a current version of Prime95 - 27.7 or newer
> - Increase the CPU/NB voltage a little 1.25-1.35v
> 
> If Core 7/8 still fail, if it's just a sumout error (xxx was expected, cpu returned xxy) then you can adjust either DRAM VREFDQ or DRAM VREFCA, I can't remember which one, you'll have to do a bit of research. But you can either raise or lower the value so that the CPU returns correct results, without having to increase the cpu voltage.
> 
> So basically, you have a very weak 4th module, so you'll have to tweak those settings to keep the voltage down.


Thanks for these tips will start trying them out right now


----------



## aas88keyz

Ok.. I did the work and I feel satisfied the I was successful at applying the TIM with a credit card. It took me a couple times to find that the kind of card mattered. But that is for another thread. Currently my FX-8120 is 4.2 GHz at stock voltage is even temps between the core and socket at around 55*C. I know I was told that bulldozers need core temps lower than socket temps but am I good when it is even?

Now currently I started Boinc crunching again for the rest of the event. I have to decide when it is over with whether I need to let the TIM cure for a time or if I should start my over clocking over immediately and see if my stability is any better. I have the "80-way Thermal Interface Material Performance Test" link so I can do the research on my TIM whether if it does have a minimum cure time. I can do that on my own. Only thing I don't know is whether I have to be at stock clocks the whole time it takes to cure. I will do what research I can. I just don't know how I was able to get to a cool and stable 4.4 GHz on my 8120 immediately after I finished following this guide and not being satisfied until I could make 4.5 GHz I lost my footage and barely make a hot but stable 4.2 GHz since then. Any advice is welcome.


----------



## ParalyzingAgent

Hey ComputerRestore, lovely guide, I just said to myself "If I only searched Bulldozer Overclock Asus Motherboard" I'd have found this on my own, instead another poster on another forum tipped me. Searching FX-8120 Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0 doesn't come up with much, more generic search terms win this round.

I've OCed my 8120 on and off for the past year, so its seasoned, but I never followed the guide which apparently was my problem getting over 4.2Ghz. On the small FFTs, I complete 7 tests in 11 minutes at 4.4Ghz (24x200) at stock 1.35V. I'm using Cooler Master Seidon 120M water block, and on test 1, my CPU Temperature skyrockets up to 79C by Test 3. My Fan Expert is set to hit 100% at 62C so I'm at max cooling. But 79C is ceiling for the test, and temps slowly drop to 67C range for the last 4-5 minutes. Using Arctic Silver MX-4 paste (free after rebate). Should I upgrade the paste or just settle for stock voltage OC? I'm actually scared of running Blend overnight only to wake up to an overcooked PC.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Ok.. I did the work and I feel satisfied the I was successful at applying the TIM with a credit card. It took me a couple times to find that the kind of card mattered. But that is for another thread. Currently my FX-8120 is 4.2 GHz at stock voltage is even temps between the core and socket at around 55*C. I know I was told that bulldozers need core temps lower than socket temps but am I good when it is even?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Now currently I started Boinc crunching again for the rest of the event. I have to decide when it is over with whether I need to let the TIM cure for a time or if I should start my over clocking over immediately and see if my stability is any better. I have the "80-way Thermal Interface Material Performance Test" link so I can do the research on my TIM whether if it does have a minimum cure time. I can do that on my own. Only thing I don't know is whether I have to be at stock clocks the whole time it takes to cure. I will do what research I can. I just don't know how I was able to get to a cool and stable 4.4 GHz on my 8120 immediately after I finished following this guide and not being satisfied until I could make 4.5 GHz I lost my footage and barely make a hot but stable 4.2 GHz since then. Any advice is welcome.


For the cure time on your Thermal Paste, you can use whatever settings you want as long as the CPU isn't getting too hot. (over 62 Celsius)
I really can't understand your high temps. At 4.2Ghz you should be around 45 Celsius under load with that cooler.

So you are using the Corsair Fans in Push/Pull?
The fans are plugged into the water block so the water block can control the fan speed?
All the lights are lit up on the water block indicating that it will offer maximum cooling?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ParalyzingAgent*
> 
> Hey ComputerRestore, lovely guide, I just said to myself "If I only searched Bulldozer Overclock Asus Motherboard" I'd have found this on my own, instead another poster on another forum tipped me. Searching FX-8120 Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0 doesn't come up with much, more generic search terms win this round.
> 
> I've OCed my 8120 on and off for the past year, so its seasoned, but I never followed the guide which apparently was my problem getting over 4.2Ghz. On the small FFTs, I complete 7 tests in 11 minutes at 4.4Ghz (24x200) at stock 1.35V. I'm using Cooler Master Seidon 120M water block, and on test 1, my CPU Temperature skyrockets up to 79C by Test 3. My Fan Expert is set to hit 100% at 62C so I'm at max cooling. But 79C is ceiling for the test, and temps slowly drop to 67C range for the last 4-5 minutes. Using Arctic Silver MX-4 paste (free after rebate). Should I upgrade the paste or just settle for stock voltage OC? I'm actually scared of running Blend overnight only to wake up to an overcooked PC.


Lol, I tried to make it easy to find when searching.

Couple questions:
- are you going by the CPU Temp of the Asus Suite? If you are, then that is the listing for the Socket Temperature. You should download a program like HWMonitor so you can view the Socket Temps (Max ~70 Celsius) as well as the Core Temp (aka Package Temp Max 62 Celsius)
- Do you have another fan to add for push/pull on your Radiator?

MX-4 paste is really good. You should be able to get a decent OC out of your rig with that cooler.
If you find that your Core Temps are ok, and you're just reading the Socket Temps. You can add a fan to the VRM's and behind your motherboard to blow on the socket to lower temps even more.

Good Luck.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> For the cure time on your Thermal Paste, you can use whatever settings you want as long as the CPU isn't getting too hot. (over 62 Celsius)
> I really can't understand your high temps. At 4.2Ghz you should be around 45 Celsius under load with that cooler.
> 
> So you are using the Corsair Fans in Push/Pull?
> The fans are plugged into the water block so the water block can control the fan speed?
> All the lights are lit up on the water block indicating that it will offer maximum cooling?


Corsair fans are connected and controlled by the motherboard dc fan controller. Fans are push/pull out the back of the case. All other fans are intake (2 top, 2 front, 1 left panel, 1 right blowing the cpu socket. The fans levels are maxed (I turn off the controller speed settings) when ocing or folding. I go silent speed or standard speed on mb controller for everyday use. The water block contoller lights were always on full (all 3 lights) though I must admit the lights aren't showing since yesterday when I accidentally pull the cables out of the power connector. Nothing really broke on it and I confirmed with my other pc's h80 setup. I can confirm the pump is working and there is water pressure still. Worse case scenario I trade out pc 2's h80 with my pc 1 (this one's) that I am working on.

Now I did my research about the TIM application and came up with this link for these special instructions for Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond Thermal Compound. http://www.antec.com/specs/instruction4.html.
Quote:


> 1. Remove any thermal pads or other compound from the heat sink and the CPU core surfaces.
> Use a LINT FREE cloth and low residual solvent such as isopropyl alcohol or acetone (nail polish remover) to clean the mating surfaces completely. Make absolutely sure the surfaces are free of foreign materials such as old compound, a hair, piece of lint or oil from fingers. Note: Never use any oil or petroleum based cleaners (WD-40, citrus based grease removers and other automotive degreasers) to clean the surfaces.
> 2. Put a finger into a clean plastic bag and apply a small amount of Silver Thermal Compound to the outside of the bag. To apply the compound, use a circular motion to rub the compound onto the base of the heat sink where the CPU core will contact it. Use a LINT FREE cloth to clean the surface again.
> DO NOT use any solvent or fluid this time.
> 3. Slowly and carefully squeeze about 1/2 size of an uncooked grain of white rice or 1/4 of a BB to the CPU core.
> 4. Use a razor blade or the clean edge of a piece of paper to spread the compound over the core. Note: DO NOT use your finger to apply or smooth the compound.
> 5. Follow the manufacturer's instructions to secure the heat sink. Minimize any "Twisting" or lateral "Sliding".


Craziest instructions I have ever heard of but I guess I have to try it. I just hope I have the TIM to spare.


----------



## ParalyzingAgent

Thank you for clarifying. I was using both AiSuite and HWMonitor. My Package temp maxed at 51C, so I am ecstatic about the cooling and the MX-4 paste. I did hook the radiator onto my case fan that is blowing out while the CM fan is blowing into the radiator.

I am going to pull the stock CPU cooler fan off my A10-5700 as I just installed it in my HTPC and used my old air blower (Zalman) because that tiny fan is A) super loud and B) the APU gets too hot. Although, not I think its the board that is too hot since you cleared up what CPU temp on the board means within HWMonitor! That should get the socket temp down and appease my Probe II when the socket gets over 70C!

On your original post, you don't mention *how* to inch up the voltage or multiplier when stress testing. You might want to add that TurboV EVO does a nice job on CPU tweaks and include the disclaimer to log the results somewhere so when the PC crashes, you can save the highest stable values into the BIOS instead of loading the OC profile upon boot.
I personally like to boot at 3.8Ghz, OC with TurboV when I need max output, and revert my profile back when I don't need it anymore. Only trouble there is if you are doing massive voltage jumps or FSB / Multiplier jumps, you might want to phase in your clocks / volts as it can be unstable.


----------



## allavett

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Now I did my research about the TIM application and came up with..


Little bit OT but:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Video that is linked in the end is quite informative









On a sidenote, I am still doing some testing with the "DRAM VREF CA ON CPU" setting. It seems to make some difference, but won't tell for sure, until I have some accurate results.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ParalyzingAgent*
> 
> Thank you for clarifying. I was using both AiSuite and HWMonitor.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My Package temp maxed at 51C, so I am ecstatic about the cooling and the MX-4 paste. I did hook the radiator onto my case fan that is blowing out while the CM fan is blowing into the radiator.
> 
> I am going to pull the stock CPU cooler fan off my A10-5700 as I just installed it in my HTPC and used my old air blower (Zalman) because that tiny fan is A) super loud and B) the APU gets too hot. Although, not I think its the board that is too hot since you cleared up what CPU temp on the board means within HWMonitor! That should get the socket temp down and appease my Probe II when the socket gets over 70C!
> 
> On your original post, you don't mention *how* to inch up the voltage or multiplier when stress testing. You might want to add that TurboV EVO does a nice job on CPU tweaks and include the disclaimer to log the results somewhere so when the PC crashes, you can save the highest stable values into the BIOS instead of loading the OC profile upon boot.
> I personally like to boot at 3.8Ghz, OC with TurboV when I need max output, and revert my profile back when I don't need it anymore. Only trouble there is if you are doing massive voltage jumps or FSB / Multiplier jumps, you might want to phase in your clocks / volts as it can be unstable.


Those are some nice temps, great work.

I thought about doing a section for TurboV, as it would speed up the process of having to go back into the BIOS for each increase, but I didn't want to complicate things too much. That, and I haven't used TurboV enough to help with any issues that may arise out of using it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allavett*
> 
> Little bit OT but:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Video that is linked in the end is quite informative
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a sidenote, I am still doing some testing with the "DRAM VREF CA ON CPU" setting. It seems to make some difference, but won't tell for sure, until I have some accurate results.


That video is awesome. Personally I like to put mine through the dishwasher to get the dust off. (<-Joking)
I've actually been looking for the video that was linked at the end, as it was one of the best representations for applying TIM. Now I can link it to my guide, thanks for finding it.

I wish I could help more with those DRAM VREF settings, but only the CHV boards have them. Although I asked Asus to sponsor one to me for this guide, but that was a no go.


----------



## CharlieHuggan

Joined to thank you for this thread, was having all kinds of problems, couldn't get my FX-8350 stable above 4.5 (lots of freezing)... Spent 10 minutes on your thread, and now upto 4.7GHz easily. My ambient temps are a little high, so socket is 70c Max, Cores 57. I taped the AMD stock fan behind my mobo which helped bring down the skyrocketing socket temps! Thinking about just putting a full 120mm fan back there now if it fits lolol.

Vcore is 1.5v though, couldn't get stable on blend without it. Seen someone else with the exact same issue on this thread. However I use an M5A99X Evo R2. I will try raising the NB voltage later to see if it helps.

Cheers for the guide again, going to keep pushing it for a few days and see if I can't reach 4.8 stable at least.

EDIT: Failed custom blend test after the first 16 minutes in a couple tests, raising NB voltage did nothing. Retried with vcore at 1.512 volts and is now stable past that mark.


----------



## maxboy

Thanks for this thread that help me understand a lot how piledriver works!
Currently I have 8350 + Sabertooth r2 + H60 and I got some questions that how someone could help.

What is the default voltage for stock speed? I disabled all power saving feature and have low lcc, Cpuz and Asus utilities both read 1.284 at stock, is it a bit low? (but it is perfectly stable)

I didn't touch that voltage while tune up only LLC to ultra high, I can get it stable at 4.5GHz with 1.332v at 56c for core and socket at 68C, I will try to put a fan to blow on vcore area. Seems like 4.8ghz is achievable if I can control the temp!


----------



## allavett

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That video is awesome. Personally I like to put mine through the dishwasher to get the dust off. (<-Joking)
> I've actually been looking for the video that was linked at the end, as it was one of the best representations for applying TIM. Now I can link it to my guide, thanks for finding it.
> I wish I could help more with those DRAM VREF settings, but only the CHV boards have them. Although I asked Asus to sponsor one to me for this guide, but that was a no go.


Good to know the video was useful. I saw you added the new part. There was a picture of delidded CPU, I was thinking you maybe could use this picture instead. A bit better reference I think.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kahboom*
> 
> bulldozer delided. cpu was already gone and yes its sodered


Sorry to hear about ASUS not sponsoring you :/
But if you had gotten the board my life would be so much more boring








At the moment I have stopped testing DRAM VREF settings. Just needed a brake and play some DayZ with my friends








But when I resume with it and come to somekind of a conclusion I will definetly post it here.


----------



## CharlieHuggan

If you get it above 4.7GHz without raising voltages please do let me know! Otherwise I'm probably keeping mine at this level too. I'll try tweaking more later and see if I can get to 4.8 @1.512 which _should_ be reasonable..


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlieHuggan*
> 
> Joined to thank you for this thread,
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> was having all kinds of problems, couldn't get my FX-8350 stable above 4.5 (lots of freezing)... Spent 10 minutes on your thread, and now upto 4.7GHz easily. My ambient temps are a little high, so socket is 70c Max, Cores 57. I taped the AMD stock fan behind my mobo which helped bring down the skyrocketing socket temps! Thinking about just putting a full 120mm fan back there now if it fits lolol.
> 
> Vcore is 1.5v though, couldn't get stable on blend without it. Seen someone else with the exact same issue on this thread. However I use an M5A99X Evo R2. I will try raising the NB voltage later to see if it helps.
> 
> Cheers for the guide again, going to keep pushing it for a few days and see if I can't reach 4.8 stable at least.
> 
> EDIT: Failed custom blend test after the first 16 minutes in a couple tests, raising NB voltage did nothing. Retried with vcore at 1.512 volts and is now stable past that mark.


Thanks very much, I'm glad it was able to help you. Looks like you're getting really good results with that CPU. It looks like you have a high stock voltage, so don't be too concerned if others can hit the same clock at lower voltages.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxboy*
> 
> Thanks for this thread that help me understand a lot how piledriver works!
> Currently I have 8350 + Sabertooth r2 + H60 and I got some questions that how someone could help.
> 
> What is the default voltage for stock speed? I disabled all power saving feature and have low lcc, Cpuz and Asus utilities both read 1.284 at stock, is it a bit low? (but it is perfectly stable)
> 
> I didn't touch that voltage while tune up only LLC to ultra high, I can get it stable at 4.5GHz with 1.332v at 56c for core and socket at 68C, I will try to put a fan to blow on vcore area. Seems like 4.8ghz is achievable if I can control the temp!


That voltage is normal. Pretty well every CPU is different. I've seen FX 8350's from 1.28-1.41v for stock voltages.

The drawback (as you are witnessing) with a low stock voltage, is that temps get crazy really quick. You'll hit the thermal limit way before you hit the voltage limit of 1.55v.

That CPU is more suited to Custom Water Cooling or Liquid Nitrogen.

You might be able to hit 4.8Ghz with a larger All-in-one water cooler (H80i, H100i, etc) but you should be ok at 4.6Ghz with the H60. So it depends how much that extra 200Mhz is worth to you I guess.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *allavett*
> 
> Good to know the video was useful.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I saw you added the new part. There was a picture of delidded CPU, I was thinking you maybe could use this picture instead. A bit better reference I think.
> Sorry to hear about ASUS not sponsoring you :/
> But if you had gotten the board my life would be so much more boring
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment I have stopped testing DRAM VREF settings. Just needed a brake and play some DayZ with my friends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But when I resume with it and come to somekind of a conclusion I will definetly post it here.


I will use that picture, thanks. It fits much better to this thread than a delidded Ivy. Yeah, the Asus Sponsor was a long shot, lol. If they did, then I was going to get the EK full board blocks and see how much better I could OC my Chip. (my 2nd one was a 1.28v stock voltage one and it ran HOT)


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlieHuggan*
> 
> Joined to thank you for this thread, was having all kinds of problems, couldn't get my FX-8350 stable above 4.5 (lots of freezing)... Spent 10 minutes on your thread, and now upto 4.7GHz easily. My ambient temps are a little high, so socket is 70c Max, Cores 57. I taped the AMD stock fan behind my mobo which helped bring down the skyrocketing socket temps! Thinking about just putting a full 120mm fan back there now if it fits lolol.
> 
> Vcore is 1.5v though, couldn't get stable on blend without it. Seen someone else with the exact same issue on this thread. However I use an M5A99X Evo R2. I will try raising the NB voltage later to see if it helps.
> 
> Cheers for the guide again, going to keep pushing it for a few days and see if I can't reach 4.8 stable at least.
> 
> EDIT: Failed custom blend test after the first 16 minutes in a couple tests, raising NB voltage did nothing. Retried with vcore at 1.512 volts and is now stable past that mark.


My fx 6300 needed nearly 1.52 for 4.8ghz im going to drop my ram from oc 1866mhz and start adjusting the multiplier see if i can hit 5 maybe more lol


----------



## ParalyzingAgent

I rigged my APU heatsink's fan over the 990fx chip by an elastic band around the middle of the fan and a twisty tie from the bank to my Seidon's water tubing (stiff like metal). My Prime95 testing ran 8-10 degrees cooler, with minimal noise. I hooked it up to the 990fx Pro R2.0's 'opt CPU fan' plug. My Armor A90's top 200mm fan started clicking annoyingly about 3 months ago, and now that I'm back to OCing, I get a new one tomorrow / Monday and will pursue higher clocks with the 1.45V range on the FX-8120 to climb to 4.8Ghz land.

Probably the wrong thread, but anyone have feedback with OCing 2x8GB 1600Mhz RAM to 1866Mhz? Does Bulldozer like higher RAM frequency? The APU thrives with 1866Mhz - 2133Mhz, and throttles at 1600Mhz for pretty well documented reasons.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ParalyzingAgent*
> 
> I rigged my APU heatsink's fan over the 990fx chip by an elastic band around the middle of the fan and a twisty tie from the bank to my Seidon's water tubing (stiff like metal). My Prime95 testing ran 8-10 degrees cooler, with minimal noise. I hooked it up to the 990fx Pro R2.0's 'opt CPU fan' plug. My Armor A90's top 200mm fan started clicking annoyingly about 3 months ago, and now that I'm back to OCing, I get a new one tomorrow / Monday and will pursue higher clocks with the 1.45V range on the FX-8120 to climb to 4.8Ghz land.
> 
> *Probably the wrong thread, but anyone have feedback with OCing 2x8GB 1600Mhz RAM to 1866Mhz? Does Bulldozer like higher RAM frequency? The APU thrives with 1866Mhz - 2133Mhz, and throttles at 1600Mhz for pretty well documented reasons.*


Bulldozer/Piledriver can push really high Memory Frequencies, but it actually benefits more from tight timings.
You could probably try your Ram at 1866Mhz 9-11-9-24 and then just increase the DRAM voltage.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ParalyzingAgent*
> 
> I rigged my APU heatsink's fan over the 990fx chip by an elastic band around the middle of the fan and a twisty tie from the bank to my Seidon's water tubing (stiff like metal). My Prime95 testing ran 8-10 degrees cooler, with minimal noise. I hooked it up to the 990fx Pro R2.0's 'opt CPU fan' plug. My Armor A90's top 200mm fan started clicking annoyingly about 3 months ago, and now that I'm back to OCing, I get a new one tomorrow / Monday and will pursue higher clocks with the 1.45V range on the FX-8120 to climb to 4.8Ghz land.
> 
> Probably the wrong thread, but anyone have feedback with OCing 2x8GB 1600Mhz RAM to 1866Mhz? Does Bulldozer like higher RAM frequency? The APU thrives with 1866Mhz - 2133Mhz, and throttles at 1600Mhz for pretty well documented reasons.


I have my G.Skills F3-12800CL9-4GBXL 1600 MHz XMP running at 1866 MHz with 10-10-10-24 timings, prime stable


----------



## 1Lt Bob

Im running at 1866 with 9-9-9-24-1t, buts its some 2400 mhz trident ram, id like to get it in the 2000 mhz range, but i will probably need to drop the 1t


----------



## maxboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That voltage is normal. Pretty well every CPU is different. I've seen FX 8350's from 1.28-1.41v for stock voltages.
> 
> The drawback (as you are witnessing) with a low stock voltage, is that temps get crazy really quick. You'll hit the thermal limit way before you hit the voltage limit of 1.55v.
> 
> That CPU is more suited to Custom Water Cooling or Liquid Nitrogen.
> 
> You might be able to hit 4.8Ghz with a larger All-in-one water cooler (H80i, H100i, etc) but you should be ok at 4.6Ghz with the H60. So it depends how much that extra 200Mhz is worth to you I guess.


You are so right, this time I tried something different, with all LLC at regular, the drop is pretty nasty, if I set it to 1.41, it will gives 1.35v, at this voltage I can get 4.6 ghz stable, but I hit the thermal wall, socket at 70C, core at 61C and vcore at 80C!!! The temp really goes crazy!
What its the safe temp for vcore bTw?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxboy*
> 
> You are so right, this time I tried something different, with all LLC at regular, the drop is pretty nasty, if I set it to 1.41, it will gives 1.35v, at this voltage I can get 4.6 ghz stable, but I hit the thermal wall, socket at 70C, core at 61C and vcore at 80C!!! The temp really goes crazy!
> What its the safe temp for vcore bTw?


vCore is the VRM reading. Below 85 Celsius is good. Adding a fan can drop the temps to 50 which will make the power production more effecient.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I lost most all stability along with higher core temps. This 3rd time reseating the cpu I finally dropped the temps of core and socket where they used to be. Except then I was at 4.4 GHz and no higher than 55*C on either socket or core. Now I am forcing a 4.3GHz oc and barely getting my cores in at 61*C and socket 55*C. I don't know if I am failing miserably with the TIM or what but I was doing a lot better when I was following your guide in the beginning and then I started messing with things trying to get to a golden overclock (to me atleast) of 4.5GHz. I don't know how much of my TIM I have left and yes I know it only takes the smallest amount but I was just not getting it to spread evenly. I don't know if I should try a reseat again and see how it was spread or accept what I have now. With the temps that I have now do I have the chance to get considerably cooler with reseating once or twice more? I never had this trouble before but I think the difference is the consistency with the TIM. I had more liquidly TIM in the past and now the stuff I have is real thick. though it had a good review. What do you think?
> 
> 
> 
> wow my thermalright sb-e extreme is allowing me 4.5ghz with lower temps, yeah arctic silver is good, although I used ceramique ii, quite thick mix, used thermalrights tim that came with the cooler for this build, 3 rice grain sized amounts on cooler plate and same on cpu then used a plastic card (library not bank but same material and thickness) to spread into a thin layer on both cpu and cooler, this makes sure its smooth and evenly spread, then seated the cooler, no need to remove to check spread as you have made sure there is an even coating with the card, hope this helps
Click to expand...

Eureka! Finally... How is folding at full load and 4.0 GHz at 39*C? I haven't responded back to this thread because I wanted to get it right unless I was all wrong which was real close. I did many reapplications of the Antec Formula 7 TIM and could not get the temps down that was reaching max recommended temps. I tried the grain of rice in the center and it would not spread out. I tried spreading it thin and thinner with a razor blade and I would get max temps that wouldn't go down. I tried my finger in plastic and this stuff would not come off the plastic as I was trying to apply it. This is really thick stuff and hard to spread.I must of had a great amount of this TIM. Not because I was using a lot but because I must have tried in so many different ways to get this stuff to spread evenly. Finally I was rdy to buy arctic 5 at the home town radio shack but thought I would give it one more try. I applied it in a "x" form on my cpu from the recommendation here Finally low temps were coming. I burned it in for another 12 hours. This morning I tried folding with it. The core temps came to be 39 to 40*C. The Socket temps @ 45*C thanks to this thread's advice to place a stock cpu fan to blow air on the bottom of the socket. I am feeling pretty good about trying to reach my 4.5 GHz goal thanks to this thread but waiting for my FAH work unit to finish. Wish me luck.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Eureka! Finally... How is folding at full load and 4.0 GHz at 39*C? I haven't responded back to this thread because I wanted to get it right unless I was all wrong which was real close. I did many reapplications of the Antec Formula 7 TIM and could not get the temps down that was reaching max recommended temps. I tried the grain of rice in the center and it would not spread out. I tried spreading it thin and thinner with a razor blade and I would get max temps that wouldn't go down. I tried my finger in plastic and this stuff would not come off the plastic as I was trying to apply it. This is really thick stuff and hard to spread.I must of had a great amount of this TIM. Not because I was using a lot but because I must have tried in so many different ways to get this stuff to spread evenly. Finally I was rdy to buy arctic 5 at the home town radio shack but thought I would give it one more try. I applied it in a "x" form on my cpu from the recommendation here Finally low temps were coming. I burned it in for another 12 hours. This morning I tried folding with it. The core temps came to be 39 to 40*C. The Socket temps @ 45*C thanks to this thread's advice to place a stock cpu fan to blow air on the bottom of the socket. I am feeling pretty good about trying to reach my 4.5 GHz goal thanks to this thread but waiting for my FAH work unit to finish. Wish me luck.


Oh good. That gives you much more headroom to play with. I'm really glad you got it sorted out, and that it was just the TIM that wasn't playing nice. Temps look to be spot on for that setup now.

Looking forward to how far you can push it now.


----------



## csimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Eureka! Finally... How is folding at full load and 4.0 GHz at 39*C? I haven't responded back to this thread because I wanted to get it right unless I was all wrong which was real close. I did many reapplications of the Antec Formula 7 TIM and could not get the temps down that was reaching max recommended temps. I tried the grain of rice in the center and it would not spread out. I tried spreading it thin and thinner with a razor blade and I would get max temps that wouldn't go down. I tried my finger in plastic and this stuff would not come off the plastic as I was trying to apply it. This is really thick stuff and hard to spread.I must of had a great amount of this TIM. Not because I was using a lot but because I must have tried in so many different ways to get this stuff to spread evenly. Finally I was rdy to buy arctic 5 at the home town radio shack but thought I would give it one more try. I applied it in a "x" form on my cpu from the recommendation here Finally low temps were coming. I burned it in for another 12 hours. This morning I tried folding with it. The core temps came to be 39 to 40*C. The Socket temps @ 45*C thanks to this thread's advice to place a stock cpu fan to blow air on the bottom of the socket. I am feeling pretty good about trying to reach my 4.5 GHz goal thanks to this thread but waiting for my FAH work unit to finish. Wish me luck.


What cpu voltage are you setting for 4.5ghz to fold?


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csimon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Eureka! Finally... How is folding at full load and 4.0 GHz at 39*C? I haven't responded back to this thread because I wanted to get it right unless I was all wrong which was real close. I did many reapplications of the Antec Formula 7 TIM and could not get the temps down that was reaching max recommended temps. I tried the grain of rice in the center and it would not spread out. I tried spreading it thin and thinner with a razor blade and I would get max temps that wouldn't go down. I tried my finger in plastic and this stuff would not come off the plastic as I was trying to apply it. This is really thick stuff and hard to spread.I must of had a great amount of this TIM. Not because I was using a lot but because I must have tried in so many different ways to get this stuff to spread evenly. Finally I was rdy to buy arctic 5 at the home town radio shack but thought I would give it one more try. I applied it in a "x" form on my cpu from the recommendation here Finally low temps were coming. I burned it in for another 12 hours. This morning I tried folding with it. The core temps came to be 39 to 40*C. The Socket temps @ 45*C thanks to this thread's advice to place a stock cpu fan to blow air on the bottom of the socket. I am feeling pretty good about trying to reach my 4.5 GHz goal thanks to this thread but waiting for my FAH work unit to finish. Wish me luck.
> 
> 
> 
> What cpu voltage are you setting for 4.5ghz to fold?
Click to expand...

Haven't yet. I am only 4.0 GHz since I started to burn in the TIM successfully. This night I will make my move for 4.5. Currently 1.35v for 4.0 GHz. I will let you know if 4.5 is successful.


----------



## Seanay00

Im in the process of overclocking my FX-8350 on a crosshair IV formula. im currently at 4.4ghz at stock volts and the clocks seem to go between 3.4 and 4.4 ghz erratically in coretemp. Is this just the type of test im doing?? (large FFT's) or is there something i havent done right??
Also the biggest issue i have with amd is getting the ram stable. I have 8gb (4x2) gskill ripjaws x 1866 ram and currently have it at 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 timings. Is there anything i need to do to get this running stable at 1866??


----------



## bond32

Lots of good info here. I have decided to return my phenom 2 965 and ordered the fx 4300. I don't even know what the stock clock is but I really hope to get close to 5 gig with proper cooling.

Edit: NVM went with the 8320.


----------



## Meeks317

hi all. i just built my gaming ring a few months ago and i am having trouble getting my Processor to overcck correctly. would the fact that my ram will not let me clock it at the correct speed be a determining factor of this. I have the AMD 8320 Processor in a Sabertooth 990FX mobo.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> Im in the process of overclocking my FX-8350 on a crosshair IV formula. im currently at 4.4ghz at stock volts and the clocks seem to go between 3.4 and 4.4 ghz erratically in coretemp. Is this just the type of test im doing?? (large FFT's) or is there something i havent done right??
> Also the biggest issue i have with amd is getting the ram stable. I have 8gb (4x2) gskill ripjaws x 1866 ram and currently have it at 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 timings. Is there anything i need to do to get this running stable at 1866??


Manually set the rated timings and voltage then try tightening them, i have my 1600mhz gskills oc'ed at 1866mhz with 10-10-10-24 but will be trying to get it tighter on 1600 tomorrow, also make sure you have not got something limiting or throttling your cores, theres a couple of hotfix updates for bulldozer/piledriver that stops core parking and theres also protection for heat that will underclock/undervolt your cpu, or something like that, follow the guide, double check all your settings and maybe start again, make sure your temps are staying within the limits too


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meeks317*
> 
> hi all. i just built my gaming ring a few months ago and i am having trouble getting my Processor to overcck correctly. would the fact that my ram will not let me clock it at the correct speed be a determining factor of this. I have the AMD 8320 Processor in a Sabertooth 990FX mobo.


If you set the ram manually, ie 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 1.5v for mine, will it not run at the rated speed? Reset your bios to optimised default, then manually set your ram, save and exit, boot and test, then work on the 5ghz recommended, if that doesnt help then theres a problem with hardware


----------



## Seanay00

yea ive checked all the settings and have turned off everything that should throttle the cpu but im new to amd and i really want this chip to shine. Anyone used this chip with the crosshair IV formula??


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> yea ive checked all the settings and have turned off everything that should throttle the cpu but im new to amd and i really want this chip to shine. Anyone used this chip with the crosshair IV formula??


The crosshair is very similar to other asus boards, if you follow the guide then you should be able to get the chip to hit some good clocks


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> Im in the process of overclocking my FX-8350 on a crosshair IV formula. im currently at 4.4ghz at stock volts and the clocks seem to go between 3.4 and 4.4 ghz erratically in coretemp. Is this just the type of test im doing?? (large FFT's) or is there something i havent done right??
> Also the biggest issue i have with amd is getting the ram stable. I have 8gb (4x2) gskill ripjaws x 1866 ram and currently have it at 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 timings. Is there anything i need to do to get this running stable at 1866??


The CPU frequency will fluctuate with the Power Saving features enabled. You can disable them in the BIOS for stress testing your CPU, but it's a good idea to re-enable them when you're done.

If it is the Crosshair IV Formula that you are using, you would get much better results switching from an AM3 Motherboard to AM3+. I used to own the CHIV as well, and my Bulldozer testing proved to have many glitches and issues Overclocking on the AM3 platform.

The Divider for 1866Mhz memory may not work right on that motherboard, as Phenom II's used 1600Mhz. You might have to use the FSB. If you set it to 233 with the 8x Divider that will give you 1864Mhz. You will have to reduce the CPU/NB Divider and HTT Divider to keep them at the stock settings of 2200Mhz CPU/NB and 2600Mhz HTT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Lots of good info here. I have decided to return my phenom 2 965 and ordered the fx 4300. I don't even know what the stock clock is but I really hope to get close to 5 gig with proper cooling.
> 
> Edit: NVM went with the 8320.


Great choice. Average clocks for the 8320's seems to be around 4.4-4.7Ghz. You'll notice a huge difference over the 965.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meeks317*
> 
> hi all. i just built my gaming ring a few months ago and i am having trouble getting my Processor to overcck correctly. would the fact that my ram will not let me clock it at the correct speed be a determining factor of this. I have the AMD 8320 Processor in a Sabertooth 990FX mobo.


As long as your Ram is running at or below it's stock settings it shouldn't cause an issue Overclocking the CPU. (unless the Ram is just faulty)
I'll definitely try to help where I can.

Please fill out your Rig Builder info, and add it to your Signature. If you followed the info in my Guide, please let me know what area you are having problems with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> The crosshair is very similar to other asus boards, if you follow the guide then you should be able to get the chip to hit some good clocks


The Crosshair V Formula is very similar to the other AM3+ Boards, but the Crosshair IV Forumla is a different beast all together, and it's only AM3. Running these AM3+ CPU's on the AM3 platform causes all kinds of issues even at stock settings.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Ahh didnt know it was only am3, they do an am3+ chvi now


----------



## maxboy

After tinkering for a day, I just can't get prime95 (custom with 6000mb ram used) pass for more than 1hr at 4.5ghz. Either core 5,7 or 8 gets error.
I playEd around with [email protected] and cpu nb @1.2-1.275. It just fail at 40-59 mins, higher voltage fail faster, lol. Temp are perfectly fine tho.

Can anyone have Any suggestion ? Maybe nb voltage?


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *csimon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Eureka! Finally... How is folding at full load and 4.0 GHz at 39*C? I haven't responded back to this thread because I wanted to get it right unless I was all wrong which was real close. I did many reapplications of the Antec Formula 7 TIM and could not get the temps down that was reaching max recommended temps. I tried the grain of rice in the center and it would not spread out. I tried spreading it thin and thinner with a razor blade and I would get max temps that wouldn't go down. I tried my finger in plastic and this stuff would not come off the plastic as I was trying to apply it. This is really thick stuff and hard to spread.I must of had a great amount of this TIM. Not because I was using a lot but because I must have tried in so many different ways to get this stuff to spread evenly. Finally I was rdy to buy arctic 5 at the home town radio shack but thought I would give it one more try. I applied it in a "x" form on my cpu from the recommendation here Finally low temps were coming. I burned it in for another 12 hours. This morning I tried folding with it. The core temps came to be 39 to 40*C. The Socket temps @ 45*C thanks to this thread's advice to place a stock cpu fan to blow air on the bottom of the socket. I am feeling pretty good about trying to reach my 4.5 GHz goal thanks to this thread but waiting for my FAH work unit to finish. Wish me luck
> 
> 
> .
> 
> 
> 
> What cpu voltage are you setting for 4.5ghz to fold?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Haven't yet. I am only 4.0 GHz since I started to burn in the TIM successfully. This night I will make my move for 4.5. Currently 1.35v for 4.0 GHz. I will let you know if 4.5 is successful.
Click to expand...

K.. currently folding at 4.4 GHz at 53*C average core temps and 1.38V. I haven't attempted 4.5 GHz yet. I don't know how much voltage it would require as I think it will fold too hot. Still for 4.4 GHz I think 1.38v stable is pretty good. When I have both pc's in this room folding the room is so small that all the heat gets trapped in here hurting my overclocks. I really don't believe there is much more I could do to reseat the FX-8120. It is at my most coolest temps yet being before this guide I couldn't keep any freq higher then 4.1 GHz. I will have to weigh things out to decide whether a 4.5GHz attempt is worth it.


----------



## Meeks317

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> If you set the ram manually, ie 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 1.5v for mine, will it not run at the rated speed? Reset your bios to optimised default, then manually set your ram, save and exit, boot and test, then work on the 5ghz recommended, if that doesnt help then theres a problem with hardware


i have tried that. every time i set them manually it blue screens.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meeks317*
> 
> i have tried that. every time i set them manually it blue screens.


Try loosening the timings or dropping the speed a little


----------



## csimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> K.. currently folding at 4.4 GHz at 53*C average core temps and 1.38V. I haven't attempted 4.5 GHz yet. I don't know how much voltage it would require as I think it will fold too hot. Still for 4.4 GHz I think 1.38v stable is pretty good. When I have both pc's in this room folding the room is so small that all the heat gets trapped in here hurting my overclocks. I really don't believe there is much more I could do to reseat the FX-8120. It is at my most coolest temps yet being before this guide I couldn't keep any freq higher then 4.1 GHz. I will have to weigh things out to decide whether a 4.5GHz attempt is worth it.


I usually test my overclocks for one week minimum on [email protected] to determine stability. Also, when I moved from 4.4 to 4.5 it took quite a chunk more of voltage to do so to get it stable. And heat, just a heads-up.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csimon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> K.. currently folding at 4.4 GHz at 53*C average core temps and 1.38V. I haven't attempted 4.5 GHz yet. I don't know how much voltage it would require as I think it will fold too hot. Still for 4.4 GHz I think 1.38v stable is pretty good. When I have both pc's in this room folding the room is so small that all the heat gets trapped in here hurting my overclocks. I really don't believe there is much more I could do to reseat the FX-8120. It is at my most coolest temps yet being before this guide I couldn't keep any freq higher then 4.1 GHz. I will have to weigh things out to decide whether a 4.5GHz attempt is worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> I usually test my overclocks for one week minimum on [email protected] to determine stability. Also, when I moved from 4.4 to 4.5 it took quite a chunk more of voltage to do so to get it stable. And heat, just a heads-up.
Click to expand...

Thank. Good advice I think. I felt the same way. I can be satisfied with a 300 MHz increase @ 4.4 GHz over a 4.1 GHz it was probably a week ago.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxboy*
> 
> After tinkering for a day, I just can't get prime95 (custom with 6000mb ram used) pass for more than 1hr at 4.5ghz. Either core 5,7 or 8 gets error.
> I playEd around with [email protected] and cpu nb @1.2-1.275. It just fail at 40-59 mins, higher voltage fail faster, lol. Temp are perfectly fine tho.
> 
> Can anyone have Any suggestion ? Maybe nb voltage?


Hi Maxboy,

It could be an issue with the Ram if more CPU voltage doesn't help with failing. What error is Prime95 giving? Also, is it version 27.7 or newer? Also, please fill out the Rig Builder info so I can see what hardware you are working with.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meeks317*
> 
> i have tried that. every time i set them manually it blue screens.


Which model of Low Profile Ram do you have? I ask because some versions use 1.35v for 9-9-9-24 @ 1600Mhz.
Make sure all the Ram have the same #'s and try them as individual pairs. (Only 2x4 at a time)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> K.. currently folding at 4.4 GHz at 53*C average core temps and 1.38V. I haven't attempted 4.5 GHz yet.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know how much voltage it would require as I think it will fold too hot. Still for 4.4 GHz I think 1.38v stable is pretty good. When I have both pc's in this room folding the room is so small that all the heat gets trapped in here hurting my overclocks. I really don't believe there is much more I could do to reseat the FX-8120. It is at my most coolest temps yet being before this guide I couldn't keep any freq higher then 4.1 GHz. I will have to weigh things out to decide whether a 4.5GHz attempt is worth it.


Looks like your FX8120 OC is about the same as my FX8150. It took 1.4v for 4.5Ghz and 1.435v for 4.6Ghz. I'd bet you could do 4.6Ghz. You have lots of headroom still as you're under 62 Celsius on the Core. 62 is the max 24/7 Temp, so don't be afraid to hover around that mark when Folding.

Looks like your CPU block is seated well now, so sometimes you can even lower temps more by playing with fan profiles. I can't remember what your profile was now, but you could even try a Push/Pull setup having the Radiator is the intake for the case.


----------



## Neroy

I am currently found my highest point of overclock @ 4.8Ghz considering that 4 hours is good without warnings. If I add more bus speed or raise the multiplier, one core stops in prime test. If I add core voltage, it freezes. Max core voltage that it hits is about 1.521v. temps at prime is max 62C. HT is running @ 2200Mhz and NB @ 2400Mhz. Voltages are raised with .1volt both. It is Very good overclock IMO considering that I have Asus M4A89GTD PRO and FX-8150 with Crucial Ballistix sport running @1500Mhz with 9-9-9-24-2T. As a cooler I am using corsair hydro H100 with Noctua fans(not push pull only two fans). It broke down last week and its waiting for RMA. After I get it back, I'm about to post some pictures of the overclock and thinking about hitting to the peak with this chip. By the way I have noticed that bulldozer has little bit more overclocking potential than the piledriver chips have. I hope that this reply gets attention because I'm overclocking with AM3 board, not with AM3+ board.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neroy*
> 
> I am currently found my highest point of overclock @ 4.8Ghz considering that 4 hours is good without warnings. If I add more bus speed or raise the multiplier, one core stops in prime test. If I add core voltage, it freezes. Max core voltage that it hits is about 1.521v. temps at prime is max 62C. HT is running @ 2200Mhz and NB @ 2400Mhz. Voltages are raised with .1volt both. It is Very good overclock IMO considering that I have Asus M4A89GTD PRO and FX-8150 with Crucial Ballistix sport running @1500Mhz with 9-9-9-24-2T. As a cooler I am using corsair hydro H100 with Noctua fans(not push pull only two fans). It broke down last week and its waiting for RMA. After I get it back, I'm about to post some pictures of the overclock and thinking about hitting to the peak with this chip. By the way I have noticed that bulldozer has little bit more overclocking potential than the piledriver chips have. I hope that this reply gets attention because I'm overclocking with AM3 board, not with AM3+ board.


Wow that is really impressive. How is the performance on that Motherboard.. When you get your parts back and set back up, could you post as screenshot of Cinebench 11.5 with your score at 4.8Ghz.


----------



## 033Y5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> yea ive checked all the settings and have turned off everything that should throttle the cpu but im new to amd and i really want this chip to shine. Anyone used this chip with the crosshair IV formula??


have you tried AmdMsrTweaker for apm ( might be wrong ) but am sure thats what i had to do every boot
should be all here http://www.overclock.net/t/682489/official-asus-crosshair-iv-formula-extreme-club/12470


----------



## Meeks317

Which model of Low Profile Ram do you have? I ask because some versions use 1.35v for 9-9-9-24 @ 1600Mhz.
Make sure all the Ram have the same #'s and try them as individual pairs. (Only 2x4 at a time)

i have Corsair Vengence CML16GX3M4A1866C9B. its supposed to be clocked at 1866 with timing of 9 10 9 27 @ 1.5V


----------



## Meeks317

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Which model of Low Profile Ram do you have? I ask because some versions use 1.35v for 9-9-9-24 @ 1600Mhz.
> Make sure all the Ram have the same #'s and try them as individual pairs. (Only 2x4 at a time)


this is the specific set of ram that i ordered. its a link to newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233360


----------



## Neroy

I use 9-9-9-24-2t with Crucial Ballistix Sport


----------



## Neroy

I would certainly do that. I haven't ever used cinebench but I will download it right after I get my stock cooler dismounted thumb.gif . My test stability tests are always based on Prime95 and Aida64 also I use MSI Kombustor when I test my CPU and GPU simultaneously. Also I have noticed that first one to fail in AIDA stability test is the math processor inside the CPU. I think It's called the FPU. But anyways it would be nice to know if playing with NB and HT frequencies could help with the FPU stability.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

theres mine, don't really understand it but there it is


----------



## maxboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hi Maxboy,
> 
> It could be an issue with the Ram if more CPU voltage doesn't help with failing. What error is Prime95 giving? Also, is it version 27.7 or newer? Also, please fill out the Rig Builder info so I can see what hardware you are working with.


Thx for the reply. Im using 27.9. The error is illegal sum and unexpected rounding. I eventually make it stable at 4.5Ghz with 1.368v and CPUNB 1.2v with assisted cooling (open the windows....lol). But my CPU is insanely hard to control the temp, one step from 1.344 to 1.356v and shoot up the temp by 10'c. Are there any fine tuning option that could drop the voltage by increase other and remain stable? I also posted my rig info!

Btw, anyone tried offset mode to keep CnQ ex. to have power saving instead of steady over voltage? I use phenommsrtweaker before but no longer work with Bulldozer/piledriver.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meeks317*
> 
> this is the specific set of ram that i ordered. its a link to newegg: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233360


That's a nice set.
You should just run two at a time to see if you can set the higher frequency, or any other frequency for that matter. Try and rule out there being a bad ram module.

The IMC in the FX CPUs is only designed to run 2 DIMMS at 1866Mhz, although lots of people are able to. So it'd be good to rule out a mad module first, and then look into possibly a weak IMC.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxboy*
> 
> Thx for the reply. Im using 27.9. The error is illegal sum and unexpected rounding. I eventually make it stable at 4.5Ghz with 1.368v and CPUNB 1.2v with assisted cooling (open the windows....lol). But my CPU is insanely hard to control the temp, one step from 1.344 to 1.356v and shoot up the temp by 10'c. Are there any fine tuning option that could drop the voltage by increase other and remain stable? I also posted my rig info!
> 
> Btw, anyone tried offset mode to keep CnQ ex. to have power saving instead of steady over voltage? I use phenommsrtweaker before but no longer work with Bulldozer/piledriver.


Nice Rig. The Sabertooth is such a good board.

It's hard to say how far you can push your CPU on the H60. I'm not sure how they are rated for cooling.
A couple things you can try in order to drop temps
- Install your Rad fan as an intake into your case.
- Install the Rad fan in a pull setup.
- If it doesn't effect stability you can drop the CPU/NB voltage to reduce temps. (1.05-1.1v) Some of the CPUs need a high CPU/NB voltage to keep the IMC happy.

- Fan over the VRM's and on the CPU socket behind the motherboard.
- Under load the CPU Core and CPU Socket temp should be about 10 Celsius difference. If it's less than that, your Water Block mounting may need to be redone. If it's greater than that, then the VRMs may be getting too warm.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> 
> 
> theres mine, don't really understand it but there it is


It just gives a good indication of system performance. It's pretty CPU intensive so it can pick up if the system is throttling, or performance is effected somehow. Yours looks pretty well spot on.


----------



## Meeks317

Cinebench.PNG 2134k .PNG file

are these numbers good?


----------



## AndenAnden

Anybody out there want to share their stable 5+ghz settings. im fine with going 1.67 with the volt, the temps can be controlled. I am having some trouble getting the thing stable. Followed the recommended setting for up to 5ghz. Im sure most will say, read the guide. I tried, and im open for a new approch. I can play games and what not with 5.1 and 5.2 with like 1.59 but its not stable for intel burn

CPU Z validation/ system spec http://valid.canardpc.com/2766095

Please share
Digi settings
CPU advanced settings
And other settings like Offset volt on cpu, nb ect

I am thinking the memory might be to slow, I have corsair vengeance 1600mhz. Do I need to clock the timings/speed to get the processor stable? I have clocked the memory to like 1766 or something. Anyway, just thinking out loud. Need something new to try. So shot if anybody got some good recommendation

Current settings:
5,1 ghz at 1.59V
HT link 2600
NB fre: 2200

Digi: Very high
Extreme
130%
130%
Standard

CPU advanced: everything disabled

Volt:

CPU: 1.59
CPU/NB: 1.32

Edit: update I clocked the memory timings. heard these settings was better 9 9 9 24 http://valid.canardpc.com/2766110

did not make the cpu more stable though


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meeks317*
> 
> Cinebench.PNG 2134k .PNG file
> 
> are these numbers good?


Looks good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> Anybody out there want to share their stable 5+ghz settings. im fine with going 1.67 with the volt, the temps can be controlled. I am having some trouble getting the thing stable. Followed the recommended setting for up to 5ghz. Im sure most will say, read the guide. I tried, and im open for a new approch. I can play games and what not with 5.1 and 5.2 with like 1.59 but its not stable for intel burn
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Z validation/ system spec http://valid.canardpc.com/2766095
> 
> Please share
> Digi settings
> CPU advanced settings
> And other settings like Offset volt on cpu, nb ect
> 
> I am thinking the memory might be to slow, I have corsair vengeance 1600mhz. Do I need to clock the timings/speed to get the processor stable? I have clocked the memory to like 1766 or something. Anyway, just thinking out loud. Need something new to try. So shot if anybody got some good recommendation
> 
> Current settings:
> 5,1 ghz at 1.58V
> HT link 2600
> NB fre: 2200
> 
> Digi: Very high
> Extreme
> 130%
> 130%
> Standard
> 
> CPU advanced: everything disabled
> 
> Volt:
> 
> CPU: 1.59
> CPU/NB: 1.32
> 
> Edit: update I clocked the memory timings. heard these settings was better 9 9 9 24 http://valid.canardpc.com/2766110
> 
> did not make the cpu more stable though


What hardware are you using? I ask because the M5A99*** Motherboards struggle with OC's over 4.8Ghz due to the 6+2 Digi Phase. In other threads, I've only seen 5.0Ghz+ on any of the 8+2 Phase or better boards.
Sabertooth
Crosshair V Formula
Crosshair V Formula-Z


----------



## bond32

http://www.overclock.net/t/1381186/fx-6300-at-5-ghz-need-input

I too want to get 5 ghz + stable. Made a post with my settings


----------



## AndenAnden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Looks good.
> What hardware are you using? I ask because the M5A99*** Motherboards struggle with OC's over 4.8Ghz due to the 6+2 Digi Phase. In other threads, I've only seen 5.0Ghz+ on any of the 8+2 Phase or better boards.
> Sabertooth
> Crosshair V Formula
> Crosshair V Formula-Z


Now this is what I was afraid of, the motherboard cant handle it. Thanks for your input, I need to look into this. I guess there is no simple way around this, like some new adapter or something hehe


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1381186/fx-6300-at-5-ghz-need-input
> 
> I too want to get 5 ghz + stable. Made a post with my settings


Wow, how long was Prime running? Does it fail?

CPU-Z and HW Monitor are fairly acurate for voltages, so I would say that 1.66v is what it's running at, so it's boosting the voltage compared to what the BIOS is set to.

I'm not familiar with ASRock, so I'm not sure what other settings might help.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Wow, how long was Prime running? Does it fail?
> 
> CPU-Z and HW Monitor are fairly acurate for voltages, so I would say that 1.66v is what it's running at, so it's boosting the voltage compared to what the BIOS is set to.
> 
> I'm not familiar with ASRock, so I'm not sure what other settings might help.


Yeah, more I look into it I believe they are correct. Prime small fft ran for about 20 min, no issues. Core temps got into 63 - 64 at full load.

I am playing various games to make sure there are no more issues. Also ran 3dmark11 (I know its more graphic intense) and it completed fine. Putting a fan on the back side of the cpu bracket really made the difference in socket temps as they were >70C at full load before.


----------



## bond32

Wow sorry triple post...


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Wow, how long was Prime running? Does it fail?
> 
> CPU-Z and HW Monitor are fairly acurate for voltages, so I would say that 1.66v is what it's running at, so it's boosting the voltage compared to what the BIOS is set to.
> 
> I'm not familiar with ASRock, so I'm not sure what other settings might help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> Now this is what I was afraid of, the motherboard cant handle it. Thanks for your input, I need to look into this. I guess there is no simple way around this, like some new adapter or something hehe


Ha ha I wish.

It looks like you have a very tough CPU to work with so there's a couple things you can try:

- Make sure HPC (High Performance Computing Mode) is on
- Fan on the VRM's and blowing on the back of the socket to try and keep temps as low as possible for the VRM's.
- Lower the CPU/NB Settings. (1800 Mhz @ 1.05v)

- Increase CPU Power Switching frequency to 400.

No guarantees, but that's probably your best chance with that Mobo.


----------



## bond32

What he said. Also I recommend attaching the stock cpu fan to the backplate!!

This ASRock board has been ok. LLC does not work at all, every time I attempted to enable it windows fails to load. This is with both the new FX-6300 and phenom 2. It is an 8 + 2 with substantial vrm cooling though.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah, more I look into it I believe they are correct. Prime small fft ran for about 20 min, no issues. Core temps got into 63 - 64 at full load.
> 
> I am playing various games to make sure there are no more issues. Also ran 3dmark11 (I know its more graphic intense) and it completed fine. Putting a fan on the back side of the cpu bracket really made the difference in socket temps as they were >70C at full load before.


I would say you are probably ok at those settings then. 1.66v is pretty high for voltage, but it's generally just the temps that you need to be concerned about. I doubt you will see any issues gaming, as the temps wont be near that high anyways.

If you haven't already, updating to the most recent BIOS 2.0 Might allow LLC to work, which will let you drop to better voltages.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I would say you are probably ok at those settings then. 1.66v is pretty high for voltage, but it's generally just the temps that you need to be concerned about. I doubt you will see any issues gaming, as the temps wont be near that high anyways.


I think so too. Had to slowly bump the voltage up and this is finally what keeps cores from failing in prime. I'm a happy camper


----------



## AndenAnden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Ha ha I wish.
> 
> It looks like you have a very tough CPU to work with so there's a couple things you can try:
> 
> - Make sure HPC (High Performance Computing Mode) is on
> - Fan on the VRM's and blowing on the back of the socket to try and keep temps as low as possible for the VRM's.
> - Lower the CPU/NB Settings. (1800 Mhz @ 1.05v)
> 
> - Increase CPU Power Switching frequency to 400.
> 
> No guarantees, but that's probably your best chance with that Mobo.


Does the NB/CPU frequency have to be that low, im gonna try for sure. I am not sure if I understand right though. but im gonna set it to 1800mhz with nb/cpu volt with 1.05.

And im not sure where cpu power switching frequency settings are, but im gonna go out right away and look for it.

Update:

Done the 1800mhz, and 1.05V, enabled HPC, gonna put my old cpu fan on the back soon(will be an intresting experiemtn if nothing else for sure).

Cant find the power switching frequency, could it be: "CPU power response controll"? It got the standard settings like auto, medium, high, extreme. .


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndenAnden*
> 
> Does the NB/CPU frequency have to be that low, im gonna try for sure. I am not sure if I understand right though. but im gonna set it to 1800mhz with nb/cpu volt with 1.05.
> 
> And im not sure where cpu power switching frequency settings are, but im gonna go out right away and look for it.
> 
> Update:
> 
> Done the 1800mhz, and 1.05V, enabled HPC, gonna put my old cpu fan on the back soon(will be an intresting experiemtn if nothing else for sure).
> 
> Cant find the power switching frequency, could it be: "CPU power response controll"? It got the standard settings like auto, medium, high, extreme. .


Sorry it was CPU Voltage Frequency.
Let me know if it helps on your OC.


----------



## fohtecki

Hi once more...
I have a strange issue I just came across the other day:
after reseating my cpu water-cooler block i started getting way better temps on my System, so i thought i might be able to raise the oc a bit more without getting too hot or too loud...
but for some reason i can´t even get stable on 3,9 on small ffts as i had it before.
maybe someone can help me out who has experience with fx 6100, one of the (prime) workers (no6) always stops after about ten minutes(around pass 7) and always is a bit slower than the rest...
could it be a Problem with a Windows update for April i read is somehow causing Systems to Crash?

thanks a lot if anybody can help...


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fohtecki*
> 
> Hi once more...
> I have a strange issue I just came across the other day:
> after reseating my cpu water-cooler block i started getting way better temps on my System, so i thought i might be able to raise the oc a bit more without getting too hot or too loud...
> but for some reason i can´t even get stable on 3,9 on small ffts as i had it before.
> maybe someone can help me out who has experience with fx 6100, one of the (prime) workers (no6) always stops after about ten minutes(around pass 7) and always is a bit slower than the rest...
> could it be a Problem with a Windows update for April i read is somehow causing Systems to Crash?
> 
> thanks a lot if anybody can help...


It's hard to say if a Windows Update would be causing your issues.

One thing to note is that if you tighten your water block too much it will stress the PCB around the CPU Socket and can cause stability issues.

Other than that, you should try increasing the CPU voltage more to see if it helps. Possibliy the CPU just requires a bit more voltage now.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> It's hard to say if a Windows Update would be causing your issues.
> 
> Once thing to note is that if you tighten your water block too much it will stress the PCB around the CPU Socket and can cause stability issues.
> 
> Other than that, you should try increasing the CPU voltage more to see if it helps. Possibliy the CPU just requires a bit more voltage now.


I have windows 7 up to date and at 4.5ghz on air with the fx6300, im stable with no issues or system crashing, try changing everything back to stock and test, if it fails then, you know you need to check your hardware

Edit**** sorry wrong quote


----------



## fohtecki

at @amd_pcmarlow:did as you said,stock voltage is for some reason lower,still proceeding upwards, I`ll let you know tomorow how far i got, thanks for the info anyway, helps me exclude possible reasons for my Little Problem...


----------



## Tomlintm

i followed your instructions it was very helpfull thank you and i am now doing my 2 hour test with my fx-4300 3.8ghz quad now running at 4.5ghz @ 1.425v i will update when the 2 hour test is over


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fohtecki*
> 
> at @amd_pcmarlow:did as you said,stock voltage is for some reason lower,still proceeding upwards, I`ll let you know tomorow how far i got, thanks for the info anyway, helps me exclude possible reasons for my Little Problem...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fohtecki*
> 
> at @amd_pcmarlow:did as you said,stock voltage is for some reason lower,still proceeding upwards, I`ll let you know tomorow how far i got, thanks for the info anyway, helps me exclude possible reasons for my Little Problem...


Yeah i find if your having problems its usually easier to start over after resetting everything to stock, hope you have a smoother experience now 

Edit *** need to stop using phone to quote lol


----------



## Tomlintm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomlintm*
> 
> i followed your instructions it was very helpfull thank you and i am now doing my 2 hour test with my fx-4300 3.8ghz quad now running at 4.5ghz @ 1.425v i will update when the 2 hour test is over


well had to up the voltage one more time so lets see if this work


----------



## Meeks317

Alright, I got my ram running at a more correct speed. it was the IMC that was limiting me from running 4 sticks of ram at 1866. so i got them to run at 1600. now im having troubles overclocking my 8320. ive gone into the bios under AI tweaker and set the multiplier to 20 and it clocked at 4.4 GHz stayed stable for Intel burn test and didn't get above 55 c running the test so i figured it was a pass. i decided to call it a night and shut off the computer fully and in the morning it decided to blue screen before windows even fully booted. what am i doing wrong?


----------



## fohtecki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Yeah i find if your having problems its usually easier to start over after resetting everything to stock, hope you have a smoother experience now
> 
> Edit *** need to stop using phone to quote lol


thaught you´d notice... running on stock at 1,217v with 3,7 just being tested on smalls... just got my 4th ram-stick back from RMA, back to 16GB feels somehow better, also is noticeable


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meeks317*
> 
> Alright, I got my ram running at a more correct speed. it was the IMC that was limiting me from running 4 sticks of ram at 1866. so i got them to run at 1600. now im having troubles overclocking my 8320. ive gone into the bios under AI tweaker and set the multiplier to 20 and it clocked at 4.4 GHz stayed stable for Intel burn test and didn't get above 55 c running the test so i figured it was a pass. i decided to call it a night and shut off the computer fully and in the morning it decided to blue screen before windows even fully booted. what am i doing wrong?


I'd recommend to install Blue Screen View so you can see with the BSOD Code was, which will help narrow down your issue.

If you're getting 4.4Ghz with a CPU Multi of 20 then I'd guess you're running the FSB at 220.

So if your CPU/NB or HTT is Overclocked now, it may just be a matter of increasing those voltages or reducing the Ratio to bring them closer to stock.


----------



## sam01sam

Hi,

I am new to this forum and new owner of AMD 8350, have couple of questions & hoping to get some help









Mother board - Asus M5A99FX PRO R2
ram - 1333mhz

1.. Can we overclock at 4.5ghz with the heat sink that came with processor, if not then what kind of cooler can i buy for 80$, i do not play games much, mainly used for 3D modeling, 3D rendering (maya, after effects)

2. right now i do not have a good graphics card, i own a nvidia GT 440, so i was hoping most of the work should be done by the processor.


----------



## Meeks317

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam01sam*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am new to this forum and new owner of AMD 8350, have couple of questions & hoping to get some help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mother board - Asus M5A99FX PRO R2
> ram - 1333mhz
> 
> 1.. Can we overclock at 4.5ghz with the heat sink that came with processor, if not then what kind of cooler can i buy for 80$, i do not play games much, mainly used for 3D modeling, 3D rendering (maya, after effects)
> 
> 2. right now i do not have a good graphics card, i own a nvidia GT 440, so i was hoping most of the work should be done by the processor.


Do not overclock with stock CPU cooler. As for the new cooler I would go with the Top rated online that fits in your case and is in your price range. Top brands are Coolermaster, and Zalman


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam01sam*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am new to this forum and new owner of AMD 8350, have couple of questions & hoping to get some help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mother board - Asus M5A99FX PRO R2
> ram - 1333mhz
> 
> 1.. Can we overclock at 4.5ghz with the heat sink that came with processor, if not then what kind of cooler can i buy for 80$, i do not play games much, mainly used for 3D modeling, 3D rendering (maya, after effects)
> 
> 2. right now i do not have a good graphics card, i own a nvidia GT 440, so i was hoping most of the work should be done by the processor.


1.
For air coolers I'd go with:

Phanteks PH-TC14PE: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709001
Noctua NH-D14: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018
But the Hyper 212+ will get you to 4.5 ghz.

2. Are you playing games?


----------



## Seanay00

Im havn a few issues getting my 8350 to 5ghz. Im using a H100i for cooling but i cant seem to get it stable at even 4.6ghz. Im using a crosshair V formula and ive heard a few people say the 8350's dont clock well on these boards due to old architecture, is this true??


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam01sam*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I am new to this forum and new owner of AMD 8350, have couple of questions & hoping to get some help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Mother board - Asus M5A99FX PRO R2
> ram - 1333mhz
> 
> 1.. Can we overclock at 4.5ghz with the heat sink that came with processor, if not then what kind of cooler can i buy for 80$, i do not play games much, mainly used for 3D modeling, 3D rendering (maya, after effects)
> 
> 2. right now i do not have a good graphics card, i own a nvidia GT 440, so i was hoping most of the work should be done by the processor.


Looks like you got some good recomendations from others here. $80 is a lot to spend on a good air cooler if you only want 4.5Ghz, so pretty well anything in the $30 range will be good enough.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seanay00*
> 
> Im havn a few issues getting my 8350 to 5ghz. Im using a H100i for cooling but i cant seem to get it stable at even 4.6ghz. Im using a crosshair V formula and ive heard a few people say the 8350's dont clock well on these boards due to old architecture, is this true??


From your previous post you said that you have the Crosshair IV 890FX Motherboard. If that's the case then my previous answer is still the same.
Quote:


> The CPU frequency will fluctuate with the Power Saving features enabled. You can disable them in the BIOS for stress testing your CPU, but it's a good idea to re-enable them when you're done.
> 
> If it is the Crosshair IV Formula that you are using, you would get much better results switching from an AM3 Motherboard to AM3+. I used to own the CHIV as well, and my Bulldozer testing proved to have many glitches and issues Overclocking on the AM3 platform.
> 
> The Divider for 1866Mhz memory may not work right on that motherboard, as Phenom II's used 1600Mhz. You might have to use the FSB. If you set it to 233 with the 8x Divider that will give you 1864Mhz. You will have to reduce the CPU/NB Divider and HTT Divider to keep them at the stock settings of 2200Mhz CPU/NB and 2600Mhz HTT.


But if it is the Crosshair V Forumla that you have then it should Overclock fine. Although there were issues when Bulldozer came out, where the BIOS chip wasn't large enough for the FX BIOS and would cause voltage issues. This would require calling Asus and getting a replacement BIOS chip.


----------



## sam01sam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 1.
> For air coolers I'd go with:
> 
> Phanteks PH-TC14PE: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709001
> Noctua NH-D14: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835608018
> But the Hyper 212+ will get you to 4.5 ghz.
> 
> 2. Are you playing games?


Thanks for the reply.

Games not much, even if i play it would be far cry, max payne etc.. shooting & car racing games mainly..

i checked cooler master website and found there hyper 412 is in my the price range, is this any good ? i will check Phanteks & Noctua from the market today.

what about - Corsair Hydro H60, bit expensive

cabinet i am looking at is - (50-80 $)
Cabinet USP 100
Cooler Master Elite 370, 371 or any other cabinets in that price range. in future i was hoping to get any GTX 660 or 670 (if possible) are they good ? or any other choice.

can i run amd fx 8350 & Asus M5A99FX PRO R2 for video editing & modeling & rendering without any graphics card ? bcos i thought we could overclock and achieve good rendering speed.

thanks for your valuable inputs guys..


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam01sam*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Games not much, even if i play it would be far cry, max payne etc.. shooting & car racing games mainly..
> 
> i checked cooler master website and found there hyper 412 is in my the price range, is this any good ? i will check Phanteks & Noctua from the market today.
> 
> what about - Corsair Hydro H60, bit expensive
> 
> cabinet i am looking at is - (50-80 $)
> Cabinet USP 100
> Cooler Master Elite 370, 371 or any other cabinets in that price range. in future i was hoping to get any GTX 660 or 670 (if possible) are they good ? or any other choice.
> 
> can i run amd fx 8350 & Asus M5A99FX PRO R2 for video editing & modeling & rendering without any graphics card ? bcos i thought we could overclock and achieve good rendering speed.
> 
> thanks for your valuable inputs guys..


That CM Hyper 412 looks like a decent air cooler. I've used a couple of the closed loop systems, and I prefer the simplicity of a good air cooler. Unless you are going to a high end $100 closed loop it's not really worth it IMO.

You would need to have your video card connected to the M5A99FX because it doesn't have any display port connections. (no iGPU etc).


----------



## sam01sam

i do have GT 440 graphics card, but its a very basic card. thanks for the info, hyper 412 seems to fit the budget,, other Noctua & Phanteks are expensive, so cant afford.

how much i can overclock using CM Hyper 412 ?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam01sam*
> 
> i do have GT 440 graphics card, but its a very basic card. thanks for the info, hyper 412 seems to fit the budget,, other Noctua & Phanteks are expensive, so cant afford.
> 
> how much i can overclock using CM Hyper 412 ?


Should be good to at least 4.5Ghz. If you ever want to try and push it more you have the option to strap another fan to it for push/pull for better cooling too.


----------



## sam01sam

this solves my problem... thanks...


----------



## SalTrent

+ rep this has helped me out allot on knowing what to do when I get (and go to over clock) my new 8350


----------



## Shneakypete

Finally got my new 8350 stable, granted its pushing the temp limits but after running prime a bit and playing bf3 and bioshock for half the day I think I'm good to go


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shneakypete*
> 
> Finally got my new 8350 stable, granted its pushing the temp limits but after running prime a bit and playing bf3 and bioshock for half the day I think I'm good to go
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Beauty OC. How do you find the 8350 over your PII 965?


----------



## Shneakypete

I felt my 965 may have bottle necked my OC 7970. Now that I'm starting to do a little video editing on top of gaming, the 8350 well out performs the 965. Play every game on ultra with 28" eyefinity.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam01sam*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> Games not much, even if i play it would be far cry, max payne etc.. shooting & car racing games mainly..
> 
> i checked cooler master website and found there hyper 412 is in my the price range, is this any good ? i will check Phanteks & Noctua from the market today.
> 
> what about - Corsair Hydro H60, bit expensive
> 
> cabinet i am looking at is - (50-80 $)
> Cabinet USP 100
> Cooler Master Elite 370, 371 or any other cabinets in that price range. in future i was hoping to get any GTX 660 or 670 (if possible) are they good ? or any other choice.
> 
> can i run amd fx 8350 & Asus M5A99FX PRO R2 for video editing & modeling & rendering without any graphics card ? bcos i thought we could overclock and achieve good rendering speed.
> 
> thanks for your valuable inputs guys..


You would be better getting an ati card rather than NVidia, they run better with amd chips and drivers tend to be more stable but each to their own I guess, that board doesn't have onboard graphics so you would need something like a hd5450 (budget card) to display anything, or hd6670 2gb for video rendering minimum

edit scrap that just seen you got a gt440 :/


----------



## aas88keyz

Well just when I was about ready to give up 4.5GHz on my FX-8120 I found what was holding me back. I was able to get 4.5 stable with this guide with good temps but when used it in real world uses my core temps would skyrocket. I just finished a folding competition and for 90% of it I had to fold at 4.4GHz otherwise my core temps would reach past 65*C at 4.5. Even at 4.4 my temps would dance around 61 to 63*C. By chance when the folding event was finished I stopped folding on my gpu. In no time my cpu was folding at 51*C. Plenty of room to jump back to 4.5 clocks. Any way my gpu is obviously heating up my case too much. Though if I were to attempt a new oc I am betting that less voltage would be required for 4.5 with out the gpu for cpu stability. I might have to find my own combined clocking for folding which will be a pain. Either way for ten 24/7 days I did not lose any wu's so my clocking is good for the most part. Now I need to find a different air flow structure in my case to prevent my gpu from overheating it all and risk ruining all my components.

Keep on foldin'!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Well just when I was about ready to give up 4.5GHz on my FX-8120 I found what was holding me back. I was able to get 4.5 stable with this guide with good temps but when used it in real world uses my core temps would skyrocket. I just finished a folding competition and for 90% of it I had to fold at 4.4GHz otherwise my core temps would reach past 65*C at 4.5. Even at 4.4 my temps would dance around 61 to 63*C. By chance when the folding event was finished I stopped folding on my gpu. In no time my cpu was folding at 51*C. Plenty of room to jump back to 4.5 clocks. Any way my gpu is obviously heating up my case too much. Though if I were to attempt a new oc I am betting that less voltage would be required for 4.5 with out the gpu for cpu stability. I might have to find my own combined clocking for folding which will be a pain. Either way for ten 24/7 days I did not lose any wu's so my clocking is good for the most part. Now I need to find a different air flow structure in my case to prevent my gpu from overheating it all and risk ruining all my components.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!


Wow, that GPU really makes a difference on those Folding Temps.

Still a huge improvement from what it was, very nice work.


----------



## DynaMight

I have a Asus M5A97 PRO mobo, plus a 8320 + 7850 but when I clock past 4.4Ghz I get graphics corruption or games freezing up for 5-10 secs at a time (no hard lock). I'm starting to wonder if the motherboard isnt supplying enough juice to the right places.

Any recommendations that may help?

I've left all the voltages to Auto except the CPU (1.35v is 10pass IBT stable upto 4.6Ghz, but even at 4.4Ghz I get pauses in games) If I run 4Ghz stock voltage I have no issues at all, perfectly stable but would like to get a little more out of it and its bugging me a little.

Thanks


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Well just when I was about ready to give up 4.5GHz on my FX-8120 I found what was holding me back. I was able to get 4.5 stable with this guide with good temps but when used it in real world uses my core temps would skyrocket. I just finished a folding competition and for 90% of it I had to fold at 4.4GHz otherwise my core temps would reach past 65*C at 4.5. Even at 4.4 my temps would dance around 61 to 63*C. By chance when the folding event was finished I stopped folding on my gpu. In no time my cpu was folding at 51*C. Plenty of room to jump back to 4.5 clocks. Any way my gpu is obviously heating up my case too much. Though if I were to attempt a new oc I am betting that less voltage would be required for 4.5 with out the gpu for cpu stability. I might have to find my own combined clocking for folding which will be a pain. Either way for ten 24/7 days I did not lose any wu's so my clocking is good for the most part. Now I need to find a different air flow structure in my case to prevent my gpu from overheating it all and risk ruining all my components.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!


Flip your fans on your H80 to intake instead.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Well just when I was about ready to give up 4.5GHz on my FX-8120 I found what was holding me back. I was able to get 4.5 stable with this guide with good temps but when used it in real world uses my core temps would skyrocket. I just finished a folding competition and for 90% of it I had to fold at 4.4GHz otherwise my core temps would reach past 65*C at 4.5. Even at 4.4 my temps would dance around 61 to 63*C. By chance when the folding event was finished I stopped folding on my gpu. In no time my cpu was folding at 51*C. Plenty of room to jump back to 4.5 clocks. Any way my gpu is obviously heating up my case too much. Though if I were to attempt a new oc I am betting that less voltage would be required for 4.5 with out the gpu for cpu stability. I might have to find my own combined clocking for folding which will be a pain. Either way for ten 24/7 days I did not lose any wu's so my clocking is good for the most part. Now I need to find a different air flow structure in my case to prevent my gpu from overheating it all and risk ruining all my components.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flip your fans on your H80 to intake instead.
Click to expand...

That might be the thing though I thought I tried that in previous attempts at airflow but now I have twice as many fans to work with. I have all case fans on intake except two 120mm fans on top along with the h80 push/pull fans as exhaust. if I intake h80 will these top fans be enough to exhaust the whole system? One other question. are the fans on the gpu supposed to be exhaust or intake? I suppose that is something I can do on my own but if someone has the short answer before I look at it let me know. I will try to keep this thread on topic though. But for now I really am still working on the 4.5 GHz that the op helped me a lot already..


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> That might be the thing though I thought I tried that in previous attempts at airflow but now I have twice as many fans to work with. I have all case fans on intake except two 120mm fans on top along with the h80 push/pull fans as exhaust. if I intake h80 will these top fans be enough to exhaust the whole system? One other question. are the fans on the gpu supposed to be exhaust or intake? I suppose that is something I can do on my own but if someone has the short answer before I look at it let me know. I will try to keep this thread on topic though. But for now I really am still working on the 4.5 GHz that the op helped me a lot already..


GPUs are usually exhaust.

If you make the H80 as an intake, you'll want to make a few others exhaust so the H80 isn't fighting against pressure in the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DynaMight*
> 
> I have a Asus M5A97 PRO mobo, plus a 8320 + 7850 but when I clock past 4.4Ghz I get graphics corruption or games freezing up for 5-10 secs at a time (no hard lock). I'm starting to wonder if the motherboard isnt supplying enough juice to the right places.
> 
> Any recommendations that may help?
> 
> I've left all the voltages to Auto except the CPU (1.35v is 10pass IBT stable upto 4.6Ghz, but even at 4.4Ghz I get pauses in games) If I run 4Ghz stock voltage I have no issues at all, perfectly stable but would like to get a little more out of it and its bugging me a little.
> 
> Thanks


Are you using the FSB to Overclock, or are you just increasing the CPU Ratio?


----------



## DynaMight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Are you using the FSB to Overclock, or are you just increasing the CPU Ratio?


Just multiplier, FSB is untouched.


----------



## frog7877

I've got an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 R2.0 and Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO sitting unopened in my closet, and I'm going to order an FX-8350 next week.

That setup just screams "overclock me" but I'm intensely skittish about increasing the FSB from the stock frequency of 200 MHz, and I'm not sure I can get over that anytime soon - it's a lot more variables to keep track of, and my meds make my brain a little hazy sometimes (got medical issues).

Do you all think I can get a decent performance increase by just increasing multipliers and voltages (CPU cores, CPU/NB, HTT Link, etc) without touching the FSB speed, or is increasing the FSB frequency really important to increasing performance?


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frog7877*
> 
> I've got an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 R2.0 and Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO sitting unopened in my closet, and I'm going to order an FX-8350 next week.
> 
> That setup just screams "overclock me" but I'm intensely skittish about increasing the FSB from the stock frequency of 200 MHz, and I'm not sure I can get over that anytime soon - it's a lot more variables to keep track of, and my meds make my brain a little hazy sometimes (got medical issues).
> 
> Do you all think I can get a decent performance increase by just increasing multipliers and voltages (CPU cores, CPU/NB, HTT Link, etc) without touching the FSB speed, or is increasing the FSB frequency really important to increasing performance?


If you follow the guide for the 5.0Ghz and leave the fsb alone, you should be able to get a decent oc out of that chip, would keep an eye on your temps though with the evo, im at 4.5ghz with my fx6300 with a thermalright sb-e extreme


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DynaMight*
> 
> Just multiplier, FSB is untouched.


Ok, well then you most likely just don't have enough vcore. Have you tried running a stress program Prime95, IBT, OCCT to see if the system crashes at the voltage you are using?

If you follow my guide for Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz to the letter and you are still having the same issue, there may be something wrong with the Mobo.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frog7877*
> 
> I've got an ASUS Sabertooth 990FX/Gen3 R2.0 and Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO sitting unopened in my closet, and I'm going to order an FX-8350 next week.
> 
> That setup just screams "overclock me" but I'm intensely skittish about increasing the FSB from the stock frequency of 200 MHz, and I'm not sure I can get over that anytime soon - it's a lot more variables to keep track of, and my meds make my brain a little hazy sometimes (got medical issues).
> 
> Do you all think I can get a decent performance increase by just increasing multipliers and voltages (CPU cores, CPU/NB, HTT Link, etc) without touching the FSB speed, or is increasing the FSB frequency really important to increasing performance?


The 212 EVO is the little one right? The 92mm or whatever?


----------



## DynaMight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Ok, well then you most likely just don't have enough vcore. Have you tried running a stress program Prime95, IBT, OCCT to see if the system crashes at the voltage you are using?
> 
> If you follow my guide for Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz to the letter and you are still having the same issue, there may be something wrong with the Mobo.


The CPU ran through 10 passes of IBT at 4.7Ghz @ 1.35v, but the graphics driver crashed, still passed though.

I have been playing around today and managed to get 4.4Ghz stable by basically setting everything to Extreme, rather than High/Ultra High, that allowed 4.4Ghz to work without any pauses in BF3, 4.6Ghz still has issues though. I'm guessing that the motherboard just isnt up for the task, I did get it almost 2 years ago so not exactly the latest kit and the top CPU around that time was something like a 3Ghz X4.

If I keep 4.4Ghz and put most of the setting down to Medium/High and try 4.4Ghz it is even more flakey, also 4Ghz on Medium/High or Ultra High etc works perfectly so its not as if those settings are causing the issues, its purely the CPU frequency. Almost seems to be a bandwidth issue, my HT Link speed has a max setting of 2200Mhz whereas I see the newer boards are 2600Mhz, not sure if thats the issue or not.

Next question is, whats a good motherboard that doesnt cost silly money? I did upgrade this way (rather than Intel) because it was cheaper, if I knew I may had needed a new motherboard too, I could had gone that route instead


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DynaMight*
> 
> The CPU ran through 10 passes of IBT at 4.7Ghz @ 1.35v, but the graphics driver crashed, still passed though.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I have been playing around today and managed to get 4.4Ghz stable by basically setting everything to Extreme, rather than High/Ultra High, that allowed 4.4Ghz to work without any pauses in BF3, 4.6Ghz still has issues though. I'm guessing that the motherboard just isnt up for the task, I did get it almost 2 years ago so not exactly the latest kit and the top CPU around that time was something like a 3Ghz X4.
> 
> If I keep 4.4Ghz and put most of the setting down to Medium/High and try 4.4Ghz it is even more flakey, also 4Ghz on Medium/High or Ultra High etc works perfectly so its not as if those settings are causing the issues, its purely the CPU frequency. Almost seems to be a bandwidth issue, my HT Link speed has a max setting of 2200Mhz whereas I see the newer boards are 2600Mhz, not sure if thats the issue or not.
> 
> Next question is, whats a good motherboard that doesnt cost silly money? I did upgrade this way (rather than Intel) because it was cheaper, if I knew I may had needed a new motherboard too, I could had gone that route instead


I should have paid more attention to what motherboard you had. Saw PRO and immediately thought M5A99X.

I believe the issue will be the level of LLC that you are using. On those boards using these CPUs it seems that LLC on AUTO is the only thing that works.

If your HT Link can't go higher than 2200, it makes me wonder if you have the correct BIOS intalled. 1604 is the most recent that supports Piledriver.


----------



## DynaMight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I should have paid more attention to what motherboard you had. Saw PRO and immediately thought M5A99X.
> 
> I believe the issue will be the level of LLC that you are using. On those boards using these CPUs it seems that LLC on AUTO is the only thing that works.
> 
> If your HT Link can't go higher than 2200, it makes me wonder if you have the correct BIOS intalled. 1604 is the most recent that supports Piledriver.


Sorry I got that wrong, it goes to a max of 2400 HT and something like 3200 CPU/NB Freq, but I've set both to 2400. I do have the very latest BIOS flashed 1604.

Thanks for the tip on the LLC, I set both CPU LLC and CPU/NB LLC to Auto and 4.4Ghz works just as well as Extreme, I will try clocking a little further tomorrow and see what happens. Any other suggested settings would be amazing


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DynaMight*
> 
> Sorry I got that wrong, it goes to a max of 2400 HT and something like 3200 CPU/NB Freq, but I've set both to 2400. I do have the very latest BIOS flashed 1604.
> 
> Thanks for the tip on the LLC, I set both CPU LLC and CPU/NB LLC to Auto and 4.4Ghz works just as well as Extreme, I will try clocking a little further tomorrow and see what happens. Any other suggested settings would be amazing


I believe it's just that only Auto LLC works. You should be able to follow the rest of the Guide as normal. Good luck on your OCing.


----------



## DynaMight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I believe it's just that only Auto LLC works. You should be able to follow the rest of the Guide as normal. Good luck on your OCing.


I tried 4.6Ghz again, but I still get the same issues as before. Easiest way for me to spot it is to go into a game of BF3, within 10secs the game will freeze for 5-10secs.

I tried bumping up the CPU voltage in 0.025 increments but had no effect. Later this afternoon I'll change some of the other settings and see if I can make it any better.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DynaMight*
> 
> I tried 4.6Ghz again, but I still get the same issues as before. Easiest way for me to spot it is to go into a game of BF3, within 10secs the game will freeze for 5-10secs.
> 
> I tried bumping up the CPU voltage in 0.025 increments but had no effect. Later this afternoon I'll change some of the other settings and see if I can make it any better.


Just a thought, is the freezing in the first few minutes or is it mid game? I had a similar issue before I installed the hotfix patches for bulldozer to stop it parking cores


----------



## DynaMight

I'll get into a multiplayer game, spawn in and it'll either freeze straight away or after maybe 10-30seconds. The game will freeze up, then unfreeze again, it doesnt hard lock, sometimes it'll only allow maybe 1-2 seconds between freezing.

I'll give the patches a try. I assume you're referring to:

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2646060
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2645594


----------



## Kairk

Thanks so much for this guide. I've never overclocked before and it allowed me to overclock my new system (I'll describe my results once I've finished the final testing).

For a final 24 hour Prime95 test, should the test be 24 hours continuous or are two 12 hour tests just as good?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kairk*
> 
> Thanks so much for this guide. I've never overclocked before and it allowed me to overclock my new system (I'll describe my results once I've finished the final testing).
> 
> For a final 24 hour Prime95 test, should the test be 24 hours continuous or are two 12 hour tests just as good?


If you want to do a 24 hour test it should be a straight 24 hours to run through all the tests, otherwise it'll just be 12 hours of the same tests twice.


----------



## Kairk

24 hour continuous it is then, thanks.


----------



## SalTrent

Quick question I have the asus crosshair v formula which has a pretty beefy looking heat sink over its VRM's should I install a fan over them to help keep them cool or is the heat-spreader enough?


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DynaMight*
> 
> I'll get into a multiplayer game, spawn in and it'll either freeze straight away or after maybe 10-30seconds. The game will freeze up, then unfreeze again, it doesnt hard lock, sometimes it'll only allow maybe 1-2 seconds between freezing.
> 
> I'll give the patches a try. I assume you're referring to:
> 
> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2646060
> http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2645594


Yeah if it isnt those i dont know


----------



## aas88keyz

K.... My 8120 cores are now 53*C, and Motherboard @ 34*C at 4.5GHz load. Even dropped the gpu down to 65*C while whole system is at load. A huge trial and error with airflow. But well worth it. At one point the cores were averaging 65*C load with 4.4GHz clock when testing. Now I have the perfect balance including high clocks and low temps. I have room to increase my oc but I am satisfied with settling with 4.5GHz. It what I always wanted and this guide has got me there each step of the way. With just the advice at cooling my cpu socket with a side panel fan that I got from my cpu heatsink my socket has never gotten higher than 56*C. Couldn't have done it without the recommended bios settings either. And with the cooling I got now, though the whole system is not underwater, anything is possible.

Now I got a new problem and just tell me if this does not belong in this thread. Whenever I have the cpu and/or gpu at load for any period of time the cpu usage throttles down to 0% every two to 5 minutes, a couple seconds a piece, killing my smp folding. I have tried everything a lot of things to stop this from happening but I am just not finding the right setting i guess somewhere. Why should my cpu core at 53*C throttle so much and so often. C6, C1, APM. Cool n' Quiet. all disabled. Don't know what I am doing wrong. The performance out of this machine is good for what it is but I need consistency for what I use it for. Any help would be appreciated.

Keep on foldin'!


----------



## ROFLmonster

First of all, thanks for this guide, as I know nothing about overclocking, and this guide explained almost everything for me. The steps are very clear, and I'm looking forward to try that once I build my system.

A question, tho. You finished the 'Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz' with 'enjoy your faster CPU'. But after that you started talking about FSB overclocking.
Is it essential? The FSB part, that is.

If I only want to reach ~4.5ghz on my FX-6300, and I don't want to OC anything else, do I need to OC the FSB as well? Will it be stable if I only increase the CPU multiplier?

And one more question, I saw somewhere that one day you OC will be stable for hours of testing, but after a while you'll need to re-tweak the settings to KEEP it stable. Is that true? Does it get less stable over time?


----------



## bond32

If you only want what you said then you should have no problems simply raising the multiplier and maybe voltage a little. It will take tweaking but it's easy to get that stable. I had the 6300 and it's very easy to get what you said.

No it doesn't become less stable over time. If you isolate Amy problems through stress testing you should be good.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> The 212 EVO is the little one right? The 92mm or whatever?


Dont know if it's been answered, but the 212 EVO is the 120mm model.


----------



## ROFLmonster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> If you only want what you said then you should have no problems simply raising the multiplier and maybe voltage a little. It will take tweaking but it's easy to get that stable. I had the 6300 and it's very easy to get what you said.
> 
> No it doesn't become less stable over time. If you isolate Amy problems through stress testing you should be good.


Thanks for the quick reply. So I'll just add a Hyper Evo 212 to my build, follow your guide, and I'll be good to go! Good to hear.

Regarding voltages, as it's the thing that keeps confusing me, I need to up the ratio (multiplier) one notch at a time until I fail the tests or I crash, and then I need to adjust the voltage as well, right?
Now, there are many voltages,and the one mentioned in the recommended settings is CPU/NB Manual voltage. Do I only change this one? Or this one and one below it? (CPU Manual Voltage)

Other than that, your answer cleared a lot of things up for me, thanks again.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROFLmonster*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. So I'll just add a Hyper Evo 212 to my build, follow your guide, and I'll be good to go! Good to hear.
> 
> Regarding voltages, as it's the thing that keeps confusing me, I need to up the ratio (multiplier) one notch at a time until I fail the tests or I crash, and then I need to adjust the voltage as well, right?
> Now, there are many voltages,and the one mentioned in the recommended settings is CPU/NB Manual voltage. Do I only change this one? Or this one and one below it? (CPU Manual Voltage)
> 
> Other than that, your answer cleared a lot of things up for me, thanks again.


When I personally tried out the settings in this guide, I only altered the CPU/NB voltage, and left the voltage reading underneath that alone. My tests worked out fine for me, so hopefully they will for you as well.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROFLmonster*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply. So I'll just add a Hyper Evo 212 to my build, follow your guide, and I'll be good to go! Good to hear.
> 
> Regarding voltages, as it's the thing that keeps confusing me, I need to up the ratio (multiplier) one notch at a time until I fail the tests or I crash, and then I need to adjust the voltage as well, right?
> Now, there are many voltages,and the one mentioned in the recommended settings is CPU/NB Manual voltage. Do I only change this one? Or this one and one below it? (CPU Manual Voltage)
> 
> Other than that, your answer cleared a lot of things up for me, thanks again.


What board do you have? If I recall the 6300 I had would run around 4.2 ghz at stock voltage... What you might try, and I say might, is starting at 200 fsb 20.0 multi, set the voltage to whatever your board shows (should be like 1.38 ish), then run some stress tests. Also keep a check on your ram, you can probably leave it for now but before changing cpu clocks make sure it runs stable.

Stress programs should run fine. Then I would go straight to 4.2 ghz and try again but its up to you. With that cooler just watch temps, keep socket temp under 72 and core under 62 ish....


----------



## ROFLmonster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> What board do you have? If I recall the 6300 I had would run around 4.2 ghz at stock voltage... What you might try, and I say might, is starting at 200 fsb 20.0 multi, set the voltage to whatever your board shows (should be like 1.38 ish), then run some stress tests. Also keep a check on your ram, you can probably leave it for now but before changing cpu clocks make sure it runs stable.
> 
> Stress programs should run fine. Then I would go straight to 4.2 ghz and try again but its up to you. With that cooler just watch temps, keep socket temp under 72 and core under 62 ish....


I'm planning to get the M5A97 R2.0.
And what do you mean keep a check on my ram? I've never done that before, so keep that in mind.








About FSB, what do you mean? 20.0 ratio? can't find it anywhere on the images.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> When I personally tried out the settings in this guide, I only altered the CPU/NB voltage, and left the voltage reading underneath that alone. My tests worked out fine for me, so hopefully they will for you as well.


I see, thanks for your input.
So OC'ing is not as intimidating as I thought it is, good to know that.

I'll lurk here for a while and do a bit more research, but so far it looks simple enough.
I'm planning to build my system hopefully soon, and I hope I'll remember to post here with my experience. Thanks everybody, have a nice day.


----------



## bond32

Keep in mind, at fully stock untouched the 6300 turbo's up to 4.2 ghz. So that should tell you how capable it is.


----------



## ROFLmonster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Keep in mind, at fully stock untouched the 6300 turbo's up to 4.2 ghz. So that should tell you how capable it is.


Untouched voltages, that is?

I edited my last post as I only noticed you replied after I submitted, I'd appreciate it if you answer my question.
What do you mean by by 'starting 200 fsb 20.0 multi..' and please be as clear as possible. Thanks.

Edit: I'll be abck tomorrow, thanks for your help.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROFLmonster*
> 
> Untouched voltages, that is?
> 
> I edited my last post as I only noticed you replied after I submitted, I'd appreciate it if you answer my question.
> What do you mean by by 'starting 200 fsb 20.0 multi..' and please be as clear as possible. Thanks.
> 
> Edit: I'll be abck tomorrow, thanks for your help.


Slightly more complicated I believe, cool n' quiet mode adjusts frequencies based on load, temps, and voltage and adjusts accordingly. Voltage will vary depending on what it determines.

The FSB is also known as the base clock. Stock this should be "auto" but one of your first steps should be to take it off auto, just set it to 200 MHz. The multiplier multiplies the base clock within the cpu itself, yielding the clock speeds you see (3.5 Ghz, 4.0 Ghz, etc...). What I would do is simply set the base clock to the 200 MHZ, then starting with a multiplier of 20.0x slowly move it up by .5, testing each and monitoring voltages. Somewhere around a 22-23x multiplier you will have to add voltage. Just read the OP for stress testing and what he recommends for adjustments.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Slightly more complicated I believe, cool n' quiet mode adjusts frequencies based on load, temps, and voltage and adjusts accordingly. Voltage will vary depending on what it determines.
> 
> The FSB is also known as the base clock. Stock this should be "auto" but one of your first steps should be to take it off auto, just set it to 200 MHz. The multiplier multiplies the base clock within the cpu itself, yielding the clock speeds you see (3.5 Ghz, 4.0 Ghz, etc...). What I would do is simply set the base clock to the 200 MHZ, then starting with a multiplier of 20.0x slowly move it up by .5, testing each and monitoring voltages. Somewhere around a 22-23x multiplier you will have to add voltage. Just read the OP for stress testing and what he recommends for adjustments.


I have the fx6300 oc'ed at 4.5ghz on my asus m5a99x evo board with a thermalright sb-e extreme cooler, using just the multiplier and upped the voltage a little, the thing you need to remember is that all chips vary slightly, what works for me might be unstable for someone else, follow the guide for the recommended 5.0ghz and manually set your memory to its rated speed and timings (ie gskills 1600mhz ripjaws @ 9,9,9,24 needs to be set to 1600mhz 9,9,9,24) once your oc is stable then you can look at tightening your timings if you ram allows it

edit**** sorry just realised your helping ROFLmonster with his oc
ROFLmonster if you follow the recommended settings and see where you get to, keep an eye on your temps and don't stress, if you struggle ask, this oc of mine is my first and through this guide and personal experience Ive managed to help others


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROFLmonster*
> 
> I'm planning to get the M5A97 R2.0.
> And what do you mean keep a check on my ram? I've never done that before, so keep that in mind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About FSB, what do you mean? 20.0 ratio? can't find it anywhere on the images.
> I see, thanks for your input.
> So OC'ing is not as intimidating as I thought it is, good to know that.
> 
> I'll lurk here for a while and do a bit more research, but so far it looks simple enough.
> I'm planning to build my system hopefully soon, and I hope I'll remember to post here with my experience. Thanks everybody, have a nice day.


Np. I was intimidated by attempting an overclock myself when I first started learning about it. But once i began trying things, little steps at a time, it became less and less intimidating and more and more intriguing. If you start small, you'll likely see that it's not so scary. Just dont try to go balls out right off the bat and crank things to the max.. lol.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SalTrent*
> 
> Quick question I have the asus crosshair v formula which has a pretty beefy looking heat sink over its VRM's should I install a fan over them to help keep them cool or is the heat-spreader enough?


The Formula V and Z models are usually pretty good with high airflow in the case. If you are using water cooling though a small fan does help because there's usually little airflow around the CPU cooler.

@ aas88keyz - Great results. It's nice to shoot for a goal and accomplish it.

Quick replay as I'm pressed for time this weekend

- Hopefully the Core Parking for Windows 7 patch helps with BF3 - also helps with Steam Games
- As frequency goes up, you need to increase CPU voltage to keep stability once Recommended Settings are set.
- The FSB was just something I threw together quick as some were asking about it.
- I'd recommend only using CPU Multi as a beginner to OCing.
- I will make a seperate guide section about the M5A97 Boards because LLC does not work properly.
- Due to the M5A97 issues, I'd recommend a M5A99X or better board.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> ...Now I got a new problem and just tell me if this does not belong in this thread. Whenever I have the cpu and/or gpu at load for any period of time the cpu usage throttles down to 0% every two to 5 minutes, a couple seconds a piece, killing my smp folding. I have tried everything a lot of things to stop this from happening but I am just not finding the right setting i guess somewhere. Why should my cpu core at 53*C throttle so much and so often. C6, C1, APM. Cool n' Quiet. all disabled. Don't know what I am doing wrong. The performance out of this machine is good for what it is but I need consistency for what I use it for. Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!


Had to quote myself since no one commented on it but I believe I found the solution to my problem. My cpu wouldn't throttle to 0% usage every few second which left my oc useless when it came to requiring my system to process at full load. I did the research but found nothing on throttling until I looked deeper and they called it CPU "core parking" I found a fix through the registry that one website "recommended" (they actually were against it but gave me the info to change it anyway). I later found there is programs that can do the same thing "safely" I used _process lasso_ that I actually already installed a while ago. It was worth the risk for me as I went from 100% to 0% every handful of seconds to it only throttling for one second in 15 minutes. I regained 8 kppd in folding points that I had lost while folding all 8 cores on my fx-8120. This makes what I paid for the bulldozer cpu almost worth it in performance. This may not work for everyone and again not many sites or forums condone it so do your research if find an interest in it. If anyone has any questions of what I know or where you can find the info on this feel free to ask me and I will try to answer to the best of my abililty.

Keep on foldin'!


----------



## SalTrent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> The Formula V and Z models are usually pretty good with high airflow in the case. If you are using water cooling though a small fan does help because there's usually little airflow around the CPU cooler.
> 
> @ aas88keyz - Great results. It's nice to shoot for a goal and accomplish it.
> 
> Quick replay as I'm pressed for time this weekend
> 
> - Hopefully the Core Parking for Windows 7 patch helps with BF3 - also helps with Steam Games
> - As frequency goes up, you need to increase CPU voltage to keep stability once Recommended Settings are set.
> - The FSB was just something I threw together quick as some were asking about it.
> - I'd recommend only using CPU Multi as a beginner to OCing.
> - I will make a seperate guide section about the M5A97 Boards because LLC does not work properly.
> - Due to the M5A97 issues, I'd recommend a M5A99X or better board.


Thanks I am gong to have a 200mm side fan so that should be fine. Also I don't know if anyone posted them yet or not but in case anyone is wondering the hotfix(s) can be found at the links below.

http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2645594/en-us
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2646060

NOTE: Some users (depending on exact hardware/OS) will only be able to install one of the patches above. When you go to install the 2nd patch, it will inform you that it does not apply to your setup.


----------



## ROFLmonster

Hey, me again.

I've done some more reading, and I still can't decide between the Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 and the ASUS M5A97 R2.0.
While the Gigabyte one is much better for OC, it seems a lot harder to OC without the friendly interface (UEFI). Is there a similar guide like this one but for Gigabyte boards? Can't find any.

Edit: A lot of reviews regarding the two and how they both OC. It seems that they're pretty much the same altho on paper the Gigabyte one looks a lot better.
Leaning towards the ASUS still.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROFLmonster*
> 
> Hey, me again.
> 
> I've done some more reading, and I still can't decide between the Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 and the ASUS M5A97 R2.0.
> While the Gigabyte one is much better for OC, it seems a lot harder to OC without the friendly interface (UEFI). Is there a similar guide like this one but for Gigabyte boards? Can't find any.
> 
> Edit: A lot of reviews regarding the two and how they both OC. It seems that they're pretty much the same altho on paper the Gigabyte one looks a lot better.
> Leaning towards the ASUS still.


I personally like my ASUS board M5A99fx R2.0. Makes everything i need to get to all in one place and labels them properly. I still feel like the UEFI is a bit gimmicky, but I guess thats just the direction the BIOS's are moving.

But the ASUS boards have been a bit more stable than other brands Ive tried in the past.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Had to quote myself since no one commented on it but I believe I found the solution to my problem. My cpu wouldn't throttle to 0% usage every few second which left my oc useless when it came to requiring my system to process at full load. I did the research but found nothing on throttling until I looked deeper and they called it CPU "core parking" I found a fix through the registry that one website "recommended" (they actually were against it but gave me the info to change it anyway). I later found there is programs that can do the same thing "safely" I used _process lasso_ that I actually already installed a while ago. It was worth the risk for me as I went from 100% to 0% every handful of seconds to it only throttling for one second in 15 minutes. I regained 8 kppd in folding points that I had lost while folding all 8 cores on my fx-8120. This makes what I paid for the bulldozer cpu almost worth it in performance. This may not work for everyone and again not many sites or forums condone it so do your research if find an interest in it. If anyone has any questions of what I know or where you can find the info on this feel free to ask me and I will try to answer to the best of my abililty.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!


If you check again there are two hotfix patches released by windows that stops the cores parking, the links have been posted in here too


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Had to quote myself since no one commented on it but I believe I found the solution to my problem. My cpu wouldn't throttle to 0% usage every few second which left my oc useless when it came to requiring my system to process at full load. I did the research but found nothing on throttling until I looked deeper and they called it CPU "core parking" I found a fix through the registry that one website "recommended" (they actually were against it but gave me the info to change it anyway). I later found there is programs that can do the same thing "safely" I used _process lasso_ that I actually already installed a while ago. It was worth the risk for me as I went from 100% to 0% every handful of seconds to it only throttling for one second in 15 minutes. I regained 8 kppd in folding points that I had lost while folding all 8 cores on my fx-8120. This makes what I paid for the bulldozer cpu almost worth it in performance. This may not work for everyone and again not many sites or forums condone it so do your research if find an interest in it. If anyone has any questions of what I know or where you can find the info on this feel free to ask me and I will try to answer to the best of my ability.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you check again there are two hotfix patches released by windows that stops the cores parking, the links have been posted in here too
Click to expand...

Thanks but I installed those microsoft patches a long while ago. I saw those links and knew right what they were because I kept a copy of those updates in my backup folder in case I needed them again with a Windows reinstall. What I found in my research was something different. I forgot to mention that the ms patches were already installed. Those helped the performance of my pc at that time but did not completely solve my issues. With the patches my pc throttled 1 out of 5 seconds this was better at that time but because of this throttling the most ppd I could get was an average of 15k with all 8 cores. With 7 cores I was able to fold with an avg of 18kppd. Between a registry hack for core parking and also have a software tool to do it automatically I now fold all 8 cores at 21k to 25kppd on my fx-8120 alone. This was the biggest improvement in ppd I ever had with this bulldozer cpu. Now if I have any throttling at all it is usually a second out of every 15 minutes. Though again every site and every program that fixed this issue gave a lot of big warnings before I continued it. I backed everything up as usual and took the chance and now I am very satisfied with the outcome. The advice I would give would be yours that says only to install the ms patches and go no further unless your willing to take the big risk in the direction I took. If the bulldozer is not throttling than you should have no worries and reason to apply this other fix. It just happened to be worth it to me. Thanks again for giving that advice so others who have not yet installed those ms patches are made aware. They did help me in the past too.

Keep on foldin'!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROFLmonster*
> 
> Hey, me again.
> 
> I've done some more reading, and I still can't decide between the Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3 and the ASUS M5A97 R2.0.
> While the Gigabyte one is much better for OC, it seems a lot harder to OC without the friendly interface (UEFI). Is there a similar guide like this one but for Gigabyte boards? Can't find any.
> 
> Edit: A lot of reviews regarding the two and how they both OC. It seems that they're pretty much the same altho on paper the Gigabyte one looks a lot better.
> Leaning towards the ASUS still.


The largest differences between those two boards

GA-970A-UD3
8+2 Power Phase
Rev 1.0 - No LLC
Rev 1.1 - Has LLC
Standard BIOS

ASUS M5A97 R2.0
4+2 Digital Power Phase
LLC Issues - Only Auto works

The Gigabyte board can generally push an 8 Core FX further than the M5A97.

There's also M5A97 Evo and Pro Motherboards which have the 6+2 Digital Power Phase


----------



## MarvinDessica

SO I tried NB overclocking and I managed to do very, very, well. But like before even though I managed to DRASTICALLY reduce the amount of voltage needed for an over at 4.6, I just can't get over that hump to get to 4.8 or even 4.7 Any advice on where to go from what you see here? Posted to imgur so you can see them individually. I'm absolutely astound that 4.6 is good at 1.41 but I have to go ALL the way to 1.48 for 4.7, I KNOW I'm doing something wrong...but I just don't know what.

Also, I tried lowering the NB & HT Link Speeds. But it didn't help at all.

http://imgur.com/ivL89AT,MeNT3UE,jtnc7Zr,YR9jCJO


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> SO I tried NB overclocking and I managed to do very, very, well. But like before even though I managed to DRASTICALLY reduce the amount of voltage needed for an over at 4.6, I just can't get over that hump to get to 4.8 or even 4.7 Any advice on where to go from what you see here? Posted to imgur so you can see them individually. I'm absolutely astound that 4.6 is good at 1.41 but I have to go ALL the way to 1.48 for 4.7, I KNOW I'm doing something wrong...but I just don't know what.
> 
> Also, I tried lowering the NB & HT Link Speeds. But it didn't help at all.
> 
> http://imgur.com/ivL89AT,MeNT3UE,jtnc7Zr,YR9jCJO


You will probably have to Enable HPC to stop the CPU throttling when shooting for 4.7-4.8Ghz
What are your temps at those settings when Stressing the CPU?
Your CPU/NB voltages are really high so it'll really shoot your temps up. Try 1.2-1.3 or as low as you can get it while remaining stable (each CPU is a bit different)

How far are you able to Overclock just using the CPU Multi?


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> You will probably have to Enable HPC to stop the CPU throttling when shooting for 4.7-4.8Ghz
> What are your temps at those settings when Stressing the CPU?
> Your CPU/NB voltages are really high so it'll really shoot your temps up. Try 1.2-1.3 or as low as you can get it while remaining stable (each CPU is a bit different)
> 
> How far are you able to Overclock just using the CPU Multi?


Temps at these settings in performance mode are as follows:

CPU: Averages around 48-52 in full stress. Socket when I have a fan blowing the heat away never tops 62/65 depending on the voltages. I can't clear 4.6 for anything but I'll give what you said a try and see what happens.


----------



## sam01sam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> You would be better getting an ati card rather than NVidia, they run better with amd chips and drivers tend to be more stable but each to their own I guess, that board doesn't have onboard graphics so you would need something like a hd5450 (budget card) to display anything, or hd6670 2gb for video rendering minimum
> 
> edit scrap that just seen you got a gt440 :/


you mean to say, ati cards perform better with amd processors & not nvidia ? i heard nvidia has cuda cores which help in rendering not ati ? now i am confused.. can you explain to me, because i was about get an nvidia gtx 660 card for after effects, photoshop & maya etc..


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Temps at these settings in performance mode are as follows:
> 
> CPU: Averages around 48-52 in full stress. Socket when I have a fan blowing the heat away never tops 62/65 depending on the voltages. I can't clear 4.6 for anything but I'll give what you said a try and see what happens.


Updating, tried HPC mode. nothing helps outside of brute force voltage increases. Also, you asked about multiplier only overclocking.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2783367

This is the result of that.


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, I seem to be having my own bit of trouble starting today..

When I run a stress test, IBT specifically, I notice that in CPU-Z my multiplier sparatically drops from x22.5 to x7?? Any suggestions why, or what might be the cause of this? I've never encountered it doing this before when running IBT.


----------



## aas88keyz

CPU throttling or what they call "core parking". Was discussed in the last couple of pages of this thread. I recommend you find the link with the Microsoft patches if you haven't already installed them. Should be not too far back to find. Should fix your issue in most cases. I would not recommend my previous resolutions i mentioned in the same thread unless you have tried everything else.

Keep on foldin'!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> CPU throttling or what they call "core parking". Was discussed in the last couple of pages of this thread. I recommend you find the link with the Microsoft patches if you haven't already installed them. Should be not too far back to find. Should fix your issue in most cases. I would not recommend my previous resolutions i mentioned in the same thread unless you have tried everything else.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!


Ill try them again in a second, pretty sure I had these hotfixes installed a long time ago though.. Never experienced this issue before today.

EDIT: apparently i did not have these hotfixes installed previously as i thought I had.. As it let me install one of them. Here's hoping this fixes the issue I'm having.!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Updating, tried HPC mode. nothing helps outside of brute force voltage increases. Also, you asked about multiplier only overclocking.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2783367
> 
> This is the result of that.


Oh I see. Seems you might just have a poor Overclocker.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, I seem to be having my own bit of trouble starting today..
> 
> When I run a stress test, IBT specifically, I notice that in CPU-Z my multiplier sparatically drops from x22.5 to x7?? Any suggestions why, or what might be the cause of this? I've never encountered it doing this before when running IBT.


Do you have HPC Enabled?
There are a couple other settings that will drop the CPU Multi when stressing.
Cool n Quiet
APM

and if you have the Power Profile in Windows not on Performance


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Oh I see. Seems you might just have a poor Overclocker.
> Do you have HPC Enabled?
> There are a couple other settings that will drop the CPU Multi when stressing.
> Cool n Quiet
> APM
> 
> and if you have the Power Profile in Windows not on Performance


I had followed the guide and set all of those to disable. It was in fact one of those hotfixes that I needed.

I'm having a different issue now.
EDIT: All were disabled except HPC.
EDIT: What do you mean poor overclocker?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I had followed the guide and set all of those to disable. It was in fact one of those hotfixes that I needed.
> 
> I'm having a different issue now.
> EDIT: All were disabled except HPC.
> EDIT: What do you mean poor overclocker?


Some of these CPU's can only overclock so high at which point no amount of voltage will keep it stable. Even despite good temps and a decent Motherboard.

That comment was directed at MarvinDessica.

My first Piledriver was like that so I wrote a thread on my testing on it before I RMA'd it.

Piledriver Core/Module Failure Thread.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Some of these CPU's can only overclock so high at which point no amount of voltage will keep it stable. Even despite good temps and a decent Motherboard.
> 
> That comment was directed at MarvinDessica.
> 
> My first Piledriver was like that so I wrote a thread on my testing on it before I RMA'd it.
> 
> Piledriver Core/Module Failure Thread.


Ahh gotcha.. Yea I'm thinking my board/chip has reached its limit at 4.5Ghz.

EDIT: I'll move my question from the 1Ghz Overclock thread to here, ( sorry if that counts as double post or spamming)
Before a crash this morning, my NB Manual voltage was set to Auto at 1.22. Afterwards i checked again and it read 1.45. Which is really high, But it also will not let me boot or post if I try to change it manually back to 1.22.

Sidenote: My Socket temps read much higher than my Chip temps. Is this NB voltage the cause?


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Some of these CPU's can only overclock so high at which point no amount of voltage will keep it stable. Even despite good temps and a decent Motherboard.
> 
> That comment was directed at MarvinDessica.
> 
> My first Piledriver was like that so I wrote a thread on my testing on it before I RMA'd it.
> 
> Piledriver Core/Module Failure Thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Ahh gotcha.. Yea I'm thinking my board/chip has reached its limit at 4.5Ghz.
> 
> EDIT: I'll move my question from the 1Ghz Overclock thread to here, ( sorry if that counts as double post or spamming)
> Before a crash this morning, my NB Manual voltage was set to Auto at 1.22. Afterwards i checked again and it read 1.45. Which is really high, But it also will not let me boot or post if I try to change it manually back to 1.22.
> 
> Sidenote: My Socket temps read much higher than my Chip temps. Is this NB voltage the cause?
Click to expand...

For FX cpu's the socket tends to be higher in temp than the cores. There is a really good suggestion to fix that from the op. He helped me get my socket temps down 10*C from where it was before. In a most affordable way.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> For FX cpu's the socket tends to be higher in temp than the cores. There is a really good suggestion to fix that from the op. He helped me get my socket temps down 10*C from where it was before. In a most affordable way.


Thanks for the suggestion. Do you happen to know where this fix might could be found? Or was that through PM?


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> For FX cpu's the socket tends to be higher in temp than the cores. There is a really good suggestion to fix that from the op. He helped me get my socket temps down 10*C from where it was before. In a most affordable way.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. Do you happen to know where this fix might could be found? Or was that through PM?
Click to expand...

First post of this thread. Post #1 started by *ComputerRestore*. You can find it other one of the spoiler titled "*Tricks to Keep things Cool*". To be honest I don't know how I use the quote function for just that suggestion but that whole post is filled with good overall knowledge


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> First post of this thread. Post #1 started by *ComputerRestore*. You can find it other one of the spoiler titled "*Tricks to Keep things Cool*". To be honest I don't know how I use the quote function for just that suggestion but that whole post is filled with good overall knowledge


Ahh ok gotcha. Ill look through that again.

I still would like to know if there is any justifiable reason for my NB voltage to be so high?
Also, Is a max stress temp of 78C for my Socket ok? During normal gaming I never see it rise passed 50C. Anybody able to offer some insight?


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sam01sam*
> 
> you mean to say, ati cards perform better with amd processors & not nvidia ? i heard nvidia has cuda cores which help in rendering not ati ? now i am confused.. can you explain to me, because i was about get an nvidia gtx 660 card for after effects, photoshop & maya etc..


In my personal opinion ati cards suit amd setups, NVidia drivers I always found buggy but its been a while since I had one, it is only my opinion and yes the NVidia cards do fair better in rendering


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ahh ok gotcha. Ill look through that again.
> 
> I still would like to know if there is any justifiable reason for my NB voltage to be so high?
> Also, Is a max stress temp of 78C for my Socket ok? During normal gaming I never see it rise passed 50C. Anybody able to offer some insight?


If the CPU/NB voltage is left on Auto then it will increase on it's own as you increase the CPU Multiplier. 1.4v is generally too high and just creates extra heat for the CPU.

It's recommended to try and keep the Socket Temp under 72 Celsius, or you will have Stress test failure due to Throttling.

I'd recommend reading through the whole guide and Spoilers as all that information is there.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ahh ok gotcha. Ill look through that again.
> 
> I still would like to know if there is any justifiable reason for my NB voltage to be so high?
> Also, Is a max stress temp of 78C for my Socket ok? During normal gaming I never see it rise passed 50C. Anybody able to offer some insight?


Socket temps get higher than core temps, the core temp needs to stay below 62 deg c, preferably lower than 55 really in my opinion, if you have the stock cooler fan still you can mount it under the mb to blow air onto the socket, this helps take a few degrees off the socket temps, stress testing is the absolute max, and if your not hitting more than 50's gaming its nothing to worry about if your stable, I never check my socket temps now just core temps if im doing something new


----------



## ComputerRestore

Updated the Guide with notes about the M5A97 Motherboards LLC Functions.

As they don't seem to work properly, it's recommended to leave them on the Auto Setting.

Not sure if this is for all M5A97 Boards, but until there is some clarifiation to this, I'll just leave it in the Guide.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Updated the Guide with notes about the M5A97 Motherboards LLC Functions.
> 
> As they don't seem to work properly, it's recommended to leave them on the Auto Setting.
> 
> Not sure if this is for all M5A97 Boards, but until there is some clarifiation to this, I'll just leave it in the Guide.


It doesn't affect the m5a99x evo rev 2.0


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> If the CPU/NB voltage is left on Auto then it will increase on it's own as you increase the CPU Multiplier. 1.4v is generally too high and just creates extra heat for the CPU.
> 
> It's recommended to try and keep the Socket Temp under 72 Celsius, or you will have Stress test failure due to Throttling.
> 
> I'd recommend reading through the whole guide and Spoilers as all that information is there.


I read through the guide at school today. Was able to successfully lower the NB voltage down quite a bit, and still currently working on getting it down to about 1.3V.

I found an old 70mm heatsink fan and attached it with zip ties next to my h100's block so that it blows directly onto heatsink there. (like you show in your diagram in the tips section) I was very happy to see that it lowered the temps a few degrees Celsius.

Running IBT a minute ago I was able to keep my Socket temps under 68C so that makes me happy.

BTW M5A99FX R2.0 is not afflicted with the LLC bug you mentioned. With the latest (1503 for this board) Bios update everything seems to function and respond as it should.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I read through the guide at school today. Was able to successfully lower the NB voltage down quite a bit, and still currently working on getting it down to about 1.3V.
> 
> I found an old 70mm heatsink fan and attached it with zip ties next to my h100's block so that it blows directly onto heatsink there. (like you show in your diagram in the tips section) I was very happy to see that it lowered the temps a few degrees Celsius.
> 
> Running IBT a minute ago I was able to keep my Socket temps under 68C so that makes me happy.
> 
> BTW M5A99FX R2.0 is not afflicted with the LLC bug you mentioned. With the latest (1503 for this board) Bios update everything seems to function and respond as it should.


1604 bios is available for the m5a99x evo r2.0


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> 1604 bios is available for the m5a99x evo r2.0


I do not have the Evo board. I have the M5A99fx Pro R2.0. Latest BIOS is 1503.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I read through the guide at school today. Was able to successfully lower the NB voltage down quite a bit, and still currently working on getting it down to about 1.3V.
> 
> I found an old 70mm heatsink fan and attached it with zip ties next to my h100's block so that it blows directly onto heatsink there. (like you show in your diagram in the tips section) I was very happy to see that it lowered the temps a few degrees Celsius.
> 
> Running IBT a minute ago I was able to keep my Socket temps under 68C so that makes me happy.
> 
> BTW M5A99FX R2.0 is not afflicted with the LLC bug you mentioned. With the latest (1503 for this board) Bios update everything seems to function and respond as it should.


That is strange that you have issues when running the CPU/NB at a low voltage. (1.2v-1.3v) You are increasing the CPU voltage as well when increasing the CPU frequency, right?

Also correct. Only the M5A97 Motherboards have the LLC Bug, all the M5A99- boards work fine.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That is strange that you have issues when running the CPU/NB at a low voltage. (1.2v-1.3v) You are increasing the CPU voltage as well when increasing the CPU frequency, right?
> 
> Also correct. Only the M5A97 Motherboards have the LLC Bug, all the M5A99- boards work fine.


Yes, following the guide I reached my max clock on stock voltage, then gradually increased voltage in line with increasing the clock higher. I have been working on lowering the NB voltage in increments over the last few hours, and am down to 1.325V currently, I believe. It has shown stable so far, no hiccups are abnormalities as of yet. And i am still slowly lowering the voltage until I either reach the previously reported 1.225V again, or I hit an unstable point close to it.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Oh I see. Seems you might just have a poor Overclocker.
> Do you have HPC Enabled?
> There are a couple other settings that will drop the CPU Multi when stressing.
> Cool n Quiet
> APM
> 
> and if you have the Power Profile in Windows not on Performance


Alright I'm going full on bizarro land right now...so short story long. I exchanged my 8350 for an 8320 and get this...it literally runs 4.6 at the same settings as the 8350. 20 passes of IBT @ extreme, I figured this might be a great sign of things to come...and I'm back to where I was; 4.6 being my end all be all cap of pushing my processor and no matter what settings I tweak I just cannot for the love of God get over that hump to GET 4.7/4.8. But at the same time, I feel sorta better that I paid less and got the same performance but this is seriously going to IRK THE HECK OUT OF ME. What on earth could I be doing wrong?


----------



## bond32

What's your ram running at? Nb speeds? Voltages? Are you using fsb or just multiplier?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Alright I'm going full on bizarro land right now...so short story long. I exchanged my 8350 for an 8320 and get this...it literally runs 4.6 at the same settings as the 8350. 20 passes of IBT @ extreme, I figured this might be a great sign of things to come...and I'm back to where I was; 4.6 being my end all be all cap of pushing my processor and no matter what settings I tweak I just cannot for the love of God get over that hump to GET 4.7/4.8. But at the same time, I feel sorta better that I paid less and got the same performance but this is seriously going to IRK THE HECK OUT OF ME. What on earth could I be doing wrong?


Well, I'll see what I can do to help, since two processors capped at 4.6Ghz would be unusual.

Could you:
- Post Screenshots of Your BIOS Settings (Voltages/Frequency Section, LLC Page, Power Savings Page)
- Run OCCT, when the test fails it will give you a bunch of graphs. Please post those graphs.
(There will be multiple graphs per core, so you only have to post one of each of those, otherwise there'll be like 32 graphs)

Please use the [ Spoiler ] Tag so the pictures wont take an entire page.


----------



## Destrto

Just an update from last night, I have been able to drop the NB manual voltage down from 1.45V to 1.306V without changing any of my other overclock settings.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Just an update from last night, I have been able to drop the NB manual voltage down from 1.45V to 1.306V without changing any of my other overclock settings.


Oh good, that's more reasonable. Is this at the stock 2200Mhz CPU/NB speed, or are you overclocking the CPU/NB?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Oh good, that's more reasonable. Is this at the stock 2200Mhz CPU/NB speed, or are you overclocking the CPU/NB?


I have started overclocking my FSB more, instead of just my multi.
Multi is at x18
FSB is at 250
CPU/NB speed is at 2500Mhz
HT speed is at 2500Mhz
RAM is at 1666Mhz

I'm getting the exact same overclock as I did using just the multi. I just felt like trying my hand at the fine tuning and tweaking, rather than just the multi alone.

Heres my latest CPU-z Validation
http://valid.canardpc.com/2788956


----------



## bond32

Very nice. Vcore looks really good. Fully stable?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Very nice. Vcore looks really good. Fully stable?


Yes. fully stable. Ran IBT on a 2 hour test last night and it was stable.
I plan to reapply thermal paste either tomorrow at school or when my new paste comes in the mail later this week.It's ceramic based, and I've heard different things about ceramic paste, but I'm going to try it for myself.


----------



## Destrto

Are there any major advantages/disadvantages to changing the Nb/HT link speeds higher than stock?

Is it best to leave them as close to stock as possible?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Well, I'll see what I can do to help, since two processors capped at 4.6Ghz would be unusual.
> 
> Could you:
> - Post Screenshots of Your BIOS Settings (Voltages/Frequency Section, LLC Page, Power Savings Page)
> - Run OCCT, when the test fails it will give you a bunch of graphs. Please post those graphs.
> (There will be multiple graphs per core, so you only have to post one of each of those, otherwise there'll be like 32 graphs)
> 
> Please use the [ Spoiler ] Tag so the pictures wont take an entire page.


How long is it considered average for OCCT to run before a failure? I dont like using OCCT cause it doesnt tell you what the error was that it detected. And IBT can run my system for hours, while OCCT usually stops after a few minutes.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Are there any major advantages/disadvantages to changing the Nb/HT link speeds higher than stock?
> 
> Is it best to leave them as close to stock as possible?


Increasing the HT only benefits Crossfire/SLI set ups.

Increasing the CPU/NB speeds hasn't shown any benefit outside the margin of error, so it's recommended to run it at or below stock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> How long is it considered average for OCCT to run before a failure? I dont like using OCCT cause it doesnt tell you what the error was that it detected. And IBT can run my system for hours, while OCCT usually stops after a few minutes.


OCCT will usually show a stability issue in under an hour. By examining the graphs, it'll usually give you an idea of where the issue lies.
- Temps too high.
- Voltage fluctuating too much
- System Throttle
- etc


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Increasing the HT only benefits Crossfire/SLI set ups.
> 
> Increasing the CPU/NB speeds hasn't shown any benefit outside the margin of error, so it's recommended to run it at or below stock.
> OCCT will usually show a stability issue in under an hour. By examining the graphs, it'll usually give you an idea of where the issue lies.
> - Temps too high.
> - Voltage fluctuating too much
> - System Throttle
> - etc


About the NB/HT Link speeds, great, ill set those back down to stock since there isnt any major benefit.
With OCCT, I ran it a few minutes ago and the graphs all seemed normal to me, but maybe there is something it's showing me that im not seeing right away. I didnt see any fluctuations that seemed out of order.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> About the NB/HT Link speeds, great, ill set those back down to stock since there isnt any major benefit.
> With OCCT, I ran it a few minutes ago and the graphs all seemed normal to me, but maybe there is something it's showing me that im not seeing right away. I didnt see any fluctuations that seemed out of order.


Ive found occt to be rather annoying for checking the stability of my overclock, prime95 will run for hours on end, 24 minimum without failing yet occt fails in less than 2 minutes, my system is stable when gaming, folding and any other task, occt fails at stock settings on mine


----------



## CannedBullets

Anyone in here have an FX-6300 clocked to 4.1 ghz? If so what's your voltages?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Anyone in here have an FX-6300 clocked to 4.1 ghz? If so what's your voltages?


I did have a 6300... Should be able to run that at stock voltages.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I did have a 6300... Should be able to run that at stock voltages.


4.1ghz is the stock turbo speed so stock voltage should work, or maybe a couple of points higher
stock voltage varys so you will have to find yours in bios


----------



## CannedBullets

Should I still disable Turbo?


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Should I still disable Turbo?


If your overclocking it to 4.1Ghz then yes disable turbo, if your using the stock cooler id leave it as it is though


----------



## MarvinDessica

Alright so no matter how much voltage I throw at it can't get past this 4.6 hump, beyond what you see in the 4.8 tab remains the same. I also tried OCCT but it crashes before I can get any real screenshots of what's going on.

4.6 stable


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










4.8 attempts


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Edit for computer restore, I added OCCT.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## CannedBullets

So what's the FX-6300's stock voltage? I just checked my bios and it said its stock voltage was around 1.28. When I overclock to 4.1 should I leave it like that because 4.1 is the turbo speed or should I bump it up to around 1.30? Also, I don't have an Asus motherboard. I have an ASRock 970 Extreme3 but I can't find any overclock guide for ASRock motherboards.

Also, my BIOS is updated to its latest version. I didn't update it myself, it was like that when I got it so I guess my motherboard was manufactured after the latest bios update.


----------



## 1Lt Bob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Alright so no matter how much voltage I throw at it can't get past this 4.6 hump, beyond what you see in the 4.8 tab remains the same. I also tried OCCT but it crashes before I can get any real screenshots of what's going on.
> 
> 4.6 stable
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.8 attempts
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The cpu voltage is prolly a bit low, i need 1.57v for prime95 stable at 4.8, but i know i got a bad chip, try with around 1.5v


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Lt Bob*
> 
> The cpu voltage is prolly a bit low, i need 1.57v for prime95 stable at 4.8, but i know i got a bad chip, try with around 1.5v


Well normally I'd be in all agreement with you but why such a HUGE jump? The stability of these chip is confusing because 1.42 ALL the way to 1.5? Most chips hitting vcores that high are getting 5ghz and above. Also, check the OCCT I posted. Even when jacking it up all way up too 1.7 it didn't help.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Alright so no matter how much voltage I throw at it can't get past this 4.6 hump, beyond what you see in the 4.8 tab remains the same. I also tried OCCT but it crashes before I can get any real screenshots of what's going on.
> 
> 4.6 stable
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.8 attempts
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit for computer restore, I added OCCT.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


THe only thing i can see that might cause instability is the NB/HT Link speeds. Just from what I had talked with ComputerRestore about yesterday, setting that at anything other than stock speeds has no real benefit.. ANd I personally encountered stress testing to fail when i had it around 2500 or higher.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> Alright so no matter how much voltage I throw at it can't get past this 4.6 hump, beyond what you see in the 4.8 tab remains the same. I also tried OCCT but it crashes before I can get any real screenshots of what's going on.
> 
> 4.6 stable
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 4.8 attempts
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit for computer restore, I added OCCT.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Couple things to try.

Manually set PCIe to 100
Lower CPU/NB to the 2200 Range + Lower CPU/NB voltage to 1.25v

what is your ram rated for? I see you're at 1600Mhz with 4.8Ghz so make sure you have the right voltage and timings set for that.

For diagnosis purposes, I would recommend figuring out your Max CPU OC using the CPU Multiplier only (Following the Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz)
That way to rule out any other settings causing issues.

From what I have seen 4.7Ghz is about the max for this board, with it's 6+2 Digi Power. Although it could push higher with a really good CPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Lt Bob*
> 
> Or try to set ur dram voltage to 1.5 or 1.55, cause you got a slight overclock on it and for me it would crash on auto


Agreed. I looked more into your rig, and you have 1333Mhz Ram?
Yeah definately just work on CPU Multi only, get your Ram specs set properly. Then go from there. It's hard to pinpoint the issue, when your ram is OC'd at stock voltages with everything else OC'd by increasing the FSB.


----------



## 1Lt Bob

Or try to set ur dram voltage to 1.5 or 1.55, cause you got a slight overclock on it and for me it would crash on auto


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I did have a 6300... Should be able to run that at stock voltages.
> 
> 
> 
> 4.1ghz is the stock turbo speed so stock voltage should work, or maybe a couple of points higher
> stock voltage varys so you will have to find yours in bios
Click to expand...

I know on thubans the CPU adds .1v when turbo kicks in. Does it not do the same on Visheras?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know on thubans the CPU adds .1v when turbo kicks in. Does it not do the same on Visheras?


Nope. The voltage on the FX's is set very high. It accounts for Turbo, AVX higher voltage requirement, and vDroop. That's why most Piledrivers can do an extra ~500Mhz and Bulldozer around 800Mhz on stock voltages with Ultra High LLC.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know on thubans the CPU adds .1v when turbo kicks in. Does it not do the same on Visheras?


Is there any reason you want to oc to turbo speed instead of just letting it step up when required? Or am i in my noob state missing something haha


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know on thubans the CPU adds .1v when turbo kicks in. Does it not do the same on Visheras?
> 
> 
> 
> Nope. The voltage on the FX's is set very high. It accounts for Turbo, AVX higher voltage requirement, and vDroop. That's why most Piledrivers can do an extra ~500Mhz and Bulldozer around 800Mhz on stock voltages with Ultra High LLC.
Click to expand...

I see. What about the # of cores? On the Thuban's 6-core chips, I know only 3 of them would clock up to turbo. Same with the FX's? I tried looking for the info but all I'm seeing are explanations that they just clock up.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I see. What about the # of cores? On the Thuban's 6-core chips, I know only 3 of them would clock up to turbo. Same with the FX's? I tried looking for the info but all I'm seeing are explanations that they just clock up.


There is two modes of Turbo for the FX's
(example being FX 8350)
Turbo Mode 1: All cores @ 4.1Ghz
Turbo Mode 2: Half cores @ 4.2Ghz

You almost never see Turbo Mode 2, because of how things get scheduled. I can't remember if it's specifically 1 Core per module over 4 Modules or 2 Cores per module, but only over 2 modules of 4, that will trigger Turbo Mode 2.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I know on thubans the CPU adds .1v when turbo kicks in. Does it not do the same on Visheras?
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any reason you want to oc to turbo speed instead of just letting it step up when required? Or am i in my noob state missing something haha
Click to expand...

This be why.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I see. What about the # of cores? On the Thuban's 6-core chips, I know only 3 of them would clock up to turbo. Same with the FX's? I tried looking for the info but all I'm seeing are explanations that they just clock up.
> 
> 
> 
> There is two modes of Turbo for the FX's
> (example being FX 8350)
> Turbo Mode 1: All cores @ 4.1Ghz
> Turbo Mode 2: Half cores @ 4.2Ghz
> 
> You almost never see Turbo Mode 2, because of how things get scheduled. I can't remember if it's specifically 1 Core per module over 4 Modules or 2 Cores per module, but only over 2 modules of 4, that will trigger Turbo Mode 2.
Click to expand...


----------



## Destrto

I've been having an odd issue lately with my Cpu temps. My Idle temp currently is about 17C. The issue though, is when ANY load hits the CPU, the temps fluctuate pretty wildly, from 19C-24C with a CPU load around 5-10%.

I've had some people tell me that this is normal, that the temp sensors on the board are just sensitive. And although the temp increases arent crazy, i still would like to know why they seem to fluctuate so sporadically such little load?
It's as though anything I do on the computer, from just moving the mouse around the desktop, to opening a program makes the temps jump like that, and then slowly ease back down to near Idle again.

Any thoughts?


----------



## fabiovtec

Dont know why but with LLC on AUTO, if i change the cpu voltage with OFFSET ou MANUAL, even if i dont overclock the cpu, the computer will freeze/lockup in flash player games/videos but runs hours of games and streess testing without no problems

If i set LLC to high or very high the computer dont freeze

I have a m5a97 evo r2.0 and fx 6300


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I've been having an odd issue lately with my Cpu temps. My Idle temp currently is about 17C. The issue though, is when ANY load hits the CPU, the temps fluctuate pretty wildly, from 19C-24C with a CPU load around 5-10%.
> 
> I've had some people tell me that this is normal, that the temp sensors on the board are just sensitive. And although the temp increases arent crazy, i still would like to know why they seem to fluctuate so sporadically such little load?
> It's as though anything I do on the computer, from just moving the mouse around the desktop, to opening a program makes the temps jump like that, and then slowly ease back down to near Idle again.
> 
> Any thoughts?


That is normal. The chip calculates the temperature. It gets more accurate as you get closer to 62c. So when it's that far away, any small change will look crazy.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> That is normal. The chip calculates the temperature. It gets more accurate as you get closer to 62c. So when it's that far away, any small change will look crazy.


Ok, great. So normal is the final verdict. Thanks.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fabiovtec*
> 
> Dont know why but with LLC on AUTO, if i change the cpu voltage with OFFSET ou MANUAL, even if i dont overclock the cpu, the computer will freeze/lockup in flash player games/videos but runs hours of games and streess testing without no problems
> 
> If i set LLC to high or very high the computer dont freeze
> 
> I have a m5a97 evo r2.0 and fx 6300


That is strange. That's quite the opposite of info I've been getting. Usually it's that pretty well anything will randomly freeze unless LLC is on Auto with any of the M5A97 Boards.

Not sure what to tell you, except that it's nice you seem to have working LLC modes.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I've been having an odd issue lately with my Cpu temps. My Idle temp currently is about 17C. The issue though, is when ANY load hits the CPU, the temps fluctuate pretty wildly, from 19C-24C with a CPU load around 5-10%.
> 
> I've had some people tell me that this is normal, that the temp sensors on the board are just sensitive. And although the temp increases arent crazy, i still would like to know why they seem to fluctuate so sporadically such little load?
> It's as though anything I do on the computer, from just moving the mouse around the desktop, to opening a program makes the temps jump like that, and then slowly ease back down to near Idle again.
> 
> Any thoughts?


Its pretty normal for that to happen, under certain temps its not that accurate, its full load temps you need to worry about


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Couple things to try.
> 
> Manually set PCIe to 100
> Lower CPU/NB to the 2200 Range + Lower CPU/NB voltage to 1.25v
> 
> what is your ram rated for? I see you're at 1600Mhz with 4.8Ghz so make sure you have the right voltage and timings set for that.
> 
> For diagnosis purposes, I would recommend figuring out your Max CPU OC using the CPU Multiplier only (Following the Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz)
> That way to rule out any other settings causing issues.
> 
> From what I have seen 4.7Ghz is about the max for this board, with it's 6+2 Digi Power. Although it could push higher with a really good CPU.
> Agreed. I looked more into your rig, and you have 1333Mhz Ram?
> Yeah definately just work on CPU Multi only, get your Ram specs set properly. Then go from there. It's hard to pinpoint the issue, when your ram is OC'd at stock voltages with everything else OC'd by increasing the FSB.


My ram is rated for 1600mhz., 1.65v, 9-9-9-27

It's these right here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104262


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> My ram is rated for 1600mhz., 1.65v, 9-9-9-27
> 
> It's these right here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104262


Those are the same that I have. And yes, they are rated at 1600Mhz. Just make sure you select the XMP profile within BIOS.

And what ComputerRestore suggests is what worked for me. I run across much less trouble when I overclock using just the Multi.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Those are the same that I have. And yes, they are rated at 1600Mhz. Just make sure you select the XMP profile within BIOS.
> 
> And what ComputerRestore suggests is what worked for me. I run across much less trouble when I overclock using just the Multi.


I'm trying now.









Hopefully I can get that 4.7 with a reasonable voltage and call it done lol.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> I'm trying now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I can get that 4.7 with a reasonable voltage and call it done lol.


Which CPU did you say you had?

I hit a wall at 4.5Ghz with mine.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> My ram is rated for 1600mhz., 1.65v, 9-9-9-27
> It's these right here http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820104262


Oh ok. The ones in your Rig said 1333Mhz.

Hopefully those other changes will help with stability.


----------



## EliteReplay

nice thanks


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Which CPU did you say you had?
> 
> I hit a wall at 4.5Ghz with mine.


What temps are you getting and am I right in assuming everything listed in your rig is up to date? I can manage 4.8 with my FX6300 on air but didn't like the voltage needed


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> What temps are you getting and am I right in assuming everything listed in your rig is up to date? I can manage 4.8 with my FX6300 on air but didn't like the voltage needed


My temps are 17C idle, and around 38C while gaming with the H100 fan setting on low.

Yes you are correct, everything listed in my rig is up to date.

My voltage is at 1.356V currently.


----------



## MarvinDessica

So I'm back. The results? Would be nice to hit 4.7, but 4.6 and $40 dollars less makes me feel better about it. The amount of voltage needed for 4.7/4.8 really isn't worth it.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarvinDessica*
> 
> So I'm back. The results? Would be nice to hit 4.7, but 4.6 and $40 dollars less makes me feel better about it. The amount of voltage needed for 4.7/4.8 really isn't worth it.


That's hows I felt about even my 8350. It was a low VID which meant it ran hot. My choice was to go with Custom Water for 4.8Ghz+ or stick with my cheepo air cooler for 4.6Ghz @ 1.335v

4.7Ghz needed 1.38v and 4.8Ghz needed 1.44v and I couldn't keep it stable due to temps. (70C+) Even with an H100.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That's hows I felt about even my 8350. It was a low VID which meant it ran hot. My choice was to go with Custom Water for 4.8Ghz+ or stick with my cheepo air cooler for 4.6Ghz @ 1.335v
> 
> 4.7Ghz needed 1.38v and 4.8Ghz needed 1.44v and I couldn't keep it stable due to temps. (70C+) Even with an H100.


When I get my new Thermal paste in the mail today I might see what voltage I'll actually need to reach above 4.5Ghz.

What would you consider to be the breaking point for idle temps on this 8120?

I left HWMonitor running while i went to take my final today. Room temp dropped to 66F, and HWMontior showed my lowest idle to be 13C, or 55F. This is at a 4.5Ghz Overclock.. No throttling or power saving features enabled.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> When I get my new Thermal paste in the mail today I might see what voltage I'll actually need to reach above 4.5Ghz.
> 
> What would you consider to be the breaking point for idle temps on this 8120?
> 
> I left HWMonitor running while i went to take my final today. Room temp dropped to 66F, and HWMontior showed my lowest idle to be 13C, or 55F. This is at a 4.5Ghz Overclock.. No throttling or power saving features enabled.


You'll never get an accurate Idle Temp with these CPUs. The best you can do is go by Socket Temp at idle. Although idle temps are useless IMO, unless for some reason it's rediculously high.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> You'll never get an accurate Idle Temp with these CPUs. The best you can do is go by Socket Temp at idle. Although idle temps are useless IMO, unless for some reason it's rediculously high.


i see. Well during normal gaming (currently playing Dead Space 3) it hasnt gone above 40C. So Im thinking I have a little head room left to try some more tweaking.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> i see. Well during normal gaming (currently playing Dead Space 3) it hasnt gone above 40C. So Im thinking I have a little head room left to try some more tweaking.


Most of the FX 8120's Overclock very well. You could probably hit 4.8Ghz with the H100.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Most of the FX 8120's Overclock very well. You could probably hit 4.8Ghz with the H100.


That is what I'm hoping for. Possibly as high as 5.2Ghz, you think? Or is that pushing it.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That is what I'm hoping for. Possibly as high as 5.2Ghz, you think? Or is that pushing it.


Only way to find out is to try. Also depends if the motherboard is up for it as well.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Only way to find out is to try. Also depends if the motherboard is up for it as well.


Ill be sure to try today.. Got my TIM in the mail a little bit ago.. Testing time begins!


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ill be sure to try today.. Got my TIM in the mail a little bit ago.. Testing time begins!


Have fun with it and keep us posted and try taking two sticks of ram out, oc tends to work better with just the two if im not mistaken


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Have fun with it and keep us posted and try taking two sticks of ram out, oc tends to work better with just the two if im not mistaken


I thought that only pertained to certain boards or older model systems?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Have fun with it and keep us posted and try taking two sticks of ram out, oc tends to work better with just the two if im not mistaken


Just tried getting passed 4.6Ghz.. still no go. I was able to get to 4.6Ghz and make it stable at 1.39V but my temps were too high at load for my taste.. And once I tried 4.7Ghz at 1.4V it froze and crashed after 1 or 2 minutes of stressing. So I'm just going to quit while I'm ahead..


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Just tried getting passed 4.6Ghz.. still no go. I was able to get to 4.6Ghz and make it stable at 1.39V but my temps were too high at load for my taste.. And once I tried 4.7Ghz at 1.4V it froze and crashed after 1 or 2 minutes of stressing. So I'm just going to quit while I'm ahead..


What were your temps getting up to? Less than 62C on the core is good. Unless there is an issue with the H100 it should handle voltage up to at least 1.45v with an 8 Core.

By issues I mean:
- Not using the right fans. (i.e. High pressure Stock Corsair fans)
- Water Block seating isn't right (see picture)
- paste is too thick
- too little paste
- Fan profile is on low/quiet mode (button on water block)



Most common cause. One side was tightened too much before the other side. Or the water block is too tight in general.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> What were your temps getting up to? Less than 62C on the core is good. Unless there is an issue with the H100 it should handle voltage up to at least 1.45v with an 8 Core.
> 
> By issues I mean:
> - Not using the right fans. (i.e. High pressure Stock Corsair fans)
> - Water Block seating isn't right (see picture)
> - paste is too thick
> - too little paste
> - Fan profile is on low/quiet mode (button on water block)
> 
> 
> 
> Most common cause. One side was tightened too much before the other side. Or the water block is too tight in general.


My temps at 4.7Ghz were getting up to 75C at the socket reading before it froze or crashed.

I'm using the stock fans that came with the H100.
On the high setting (all 3 lights on the block are lit)
Dont think the paste is the issue.

As far as it not being seated right, or one side being tightened too much while the other side not enough.. There really isnt a way to tell with the way the bracket screws down. There is no "stop" point with the threads. they'll keep going till I twist them completely off. I will try to re tighten the screws a little more evenly if I can see how much they are being tightened down on each side.

And are you saying that the stock fans would be the incorrect fans to use?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> My temps at 4.7Ghz were getting up to 75C at the socket reading before it froze or crashed.
> 
> I'm using the stock fans that came with the H100.
> On the high setting (all 3 lights on the block are lit)
> Dont think the paste is the issue.
> 
> As far as it not being seated right, or one side being tightened too much while the other side not enough.. There really isnt a way to tell with the way the bracket screws down. There is no "stop" point with the threads. they'll keep going till I twist them completely off. I will try to re tighten the screws a little more evenly if I can see how much they are being tightened down on each side.
> 
> And are you saying that the stock fans would be the incorrect fans to use?


the stock H100 are good to use. Many people make the mistake of swapping them for normal fans with low pressure that can't push the air through the rad.

The way the H100 mounts is a bit of a pain. With the brackets they have there is no flex to allow for equal pressure on each side of the mount. Probably the best way is to have the tower on it's side. Apply moderate pressure on the center of the water block with your hand and just snug the thumb screws up. They don't need to be super tight because the mechanical advantage applies so much pressure.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> the stock H100 are good to use. Many people make the mistake of swapping them for normal fans with low pressure that can't push the air through the rad.
> 
> The way the H100 mounts is a bit of a pain. With the brackets they have there is no flex to allow for equal pressure on each side of the mount. Probably the best way is to have the tower on it's side. Apply moderate pressure on the center of the water block with your hand and just snug the thumb screws up. They don't need to be super tight because the mechanical advantage applies so much pressure.


That is exactly how I just reapplied the block. So I'm glad I had the right way already in my head.

Anytime I try to reach higher than 4.5Ghz the socket temp just reaches too high. I think this is just the limit of this particular chip. Which I'm not upset about, I'm surprised I made it passed 4Ghz to be honest.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That is exactly how I just reapplied the block. So I'm glad I had the right way already in my head.
> 
> Anytime I try to reach higher than 4.5Ghz the socket temp just reaches too high. I think this is just the limit of this particular chip. Which I'm not upset about, I'm surprised I made it passed 4Ghz to be honest.


4.5Ghz is still great for 3.1Ghz stock.

How high does the Package/Core temp get? When using a water cooler there is a lack of airflow around the VRM's and socket. If you're not near 62C on the core then you could add a fan to the VRM's and to behind the motherboard to blow on the socket to keep the socket temp down.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 4.5Ghz is still great for 3.1Ghz stock.
> 
> How high does the Package/Core temp get? When using a water cooler there is a lack of airflow around the VRM's and socket. If you're not near 62C on the core then you could add a fan to the VRM's and to behind the motherboard to blow on the socket to keep the socket temp down.


The package/core temp gets up to about 56-58C while stressing with IBT. I already have a small fan pulling air off of the vrm (between the CPU and the rear IO panel). Having it pull air off instead of blowing air into it seems to cool it better.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Well, if you decide to try and push it further here is a pic of my FX 8150 and settings using an air cooler about as good as they Hyper 212 Evo. Running Prime95 @ 4.6Ghz. It's only a 5 minute run, so temps would have hit 71C on the Socket and probably 60C on the Core.

With my H100 temps only reached high 40's and the Socket high 50's. I couldn't get it stable above 4.8Ghz
though.

Having the VRM fan blow down onto the heatsink will cool it best, since it pushes heat away from the Mosfets which are located under the heat sink.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> 
> Well, if you decide to try and push it further here is a pic of my FX 8150 and settings using an air cooler about as good as they Hyper 212 Evo. Running Prime95 @ 4.6Ghz. It's only a 5 minute run, so temps would have hit 71C on the Socket and probably 60C on the Core.
> 
> With my H100 temps only reached high 40's and the Socket high 50's. I couldn't get it stable above 4.8Ghz
> though.
> 
> Having the VRM fan blow down onto the heatsink will cool it best, since it pushes heat away from the Mosfets which are located under the heat sink.


Yea I tried it that way first, but I wasn't noticing any change in temps. When I turned the fan around, however, it lowered 2-3C.
I'm not sure why your temps were so much lower than mine using the H100.. Are those numbers during g a stress test?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yea I tried it that way first, but I wasn't noticing any change in temps. When I turned the fan around, however, it lowered 2-3C.
> I'm not sure why your temps were so much lower than mine using the H100.. Are those numbers during g a stress test?


The pic is a run with just an air cooler. You'll have to look at max temps for the pic, because I ended the run before I took the pic.
With my H100 I was only hitting high 40's and high 50's running Prime.

It may not mean much, because each CPU runs at a different temp. Although yours runs a good voltages, it was branded as an 8120, which may have just been because it ran too hot to fit into the 125W TDP for 8150 settings.

Just wanted to rule out anything obvious, but you could be right that 4.6Ghz is all it can handle.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> The pic is a run with just an air cooler. You'll have to look at max temps for the pic, because I ended the run before I took the pic.
> With my H100 I was only hitting high 40's and high 50's running Prime.
> 
> It may not mean much, because each CPU runs at a different temp. Although yours runs a good voltages, it was branded as an 8120, which may have just been because it ran too hot to fit into the 125W TDP for 8150 settings.
> 
> Just wanted to rule out anything obvious, but you could be right that 4.6Ghz is all it can handle.


The 8120 runs at 125w TDP as well. But I understand what you're saying. I've gone a full .05v above what I'm at now, and no change in stability, so I'm just going to let that tell me that that's its limit. Any voltage higher than that and my temps reach passed the threshold.

Quick update to the new thermal paste though, it works well. And with 20g worth, it'll last me quite awhile. if I can ever get dwood to answer my PM about those brackets he makes I'll learn how to start a build log on here and work on doing "the red mod" to my 6850s. Along with a complete resleeving with black/carbon gray.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The 8120 runs at 125w TDP as well. But I understand what you're saying. I've gone a full .05v above what I'm at now, and no change in stability, so I'm just going to let that tell me that that's its limit. Any voltage higher than that and my temps reach passed the threshold.
> 
> Quick update to the new thermal paste though, it works well. And with 20g worth, it'll last me quite awhile. if I can ever get dwood to answer my PM about those brackets he makes I'll learn how to start a build log on here and work on doing "the red mod" to my 6850s. Along with a complete resleeving with black/carbon gray.


Exactly 125W @ 3.1Ghz compared to 125W @ 3.6Ghz even though you have very good voltages to work with.

Looking forward to your Build Log. I'm subscribed to so many cause I like seeing the updates and how they look.


----------



## bond32

I considered putting the stock heatsink fan on my VRM, I am just wondering if I should have it blowing up rather than down.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Exactly 125W @ 3.1Ghz compared to 125W @ 3.6Ghz even though you have very good voltages to work with.
> 
> Looking forward to your Build Log. I'm subscribed to so many cause I like seeing the updates and how they look.


Ahh I see what you mean. It's rated at the stock speed.

How exactly do I start a build log? I'm going to get my sleeving first, and would like to show my progress with that, since it will be my first real attempt at sleeving.

AS far as the "red mod", I dont know how well the zip tie method would work, and if I need a metal ziptie for the initial wrap around the base of the block.
If I dont hear from Dwood before I get the money for the H50's or H60's, I'll be tempted to start on it.

Side note: I've tried 2 different fans on top of my VRM's next to the cpu, and I'm not seeing any change in temps like I thought i was before. I tried with both fans facing down towards the board, and the opposite way as well.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I considered putting the stock heatsink fan on my VRM, I am just wondering if I should have it blowing up rather than down.


That sounds logical but best thing to do is test both.


----------



## bond32

Actually at the moment just put a 120mm fan blowing on the vrm from the side. The stock fan didn't do much but make a lot of noise. Temps on the vrm seem better but I never recorded a reading before hand. Really want to try to eliminate as much as I can for now.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The package/core temp gets up to about 56-58C while stressing with IBT. I already have a small fan pulling air off of the vrm (between the CPU and the rear IO panel). Having it pull air off instead of blowing air into it seems to cool it better.


Those temps do seem a little high for water cooling, with regards to the ram, because your using quad, it puts a bit more strain on the imc, although it should be capable of handling all 4 slots populated, it can affect the oc, only going off advice ive seen around the forums on here tho, i can hit 4.8ghz with 1.44v on air with my fx6300, core hits 47ºc in prime


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Those temps do seem a little high for water cooling, with regards to the ram, because your using quad, it puts a bit more strain on the imc, although it should be capable of handling all 4 slots populated, it can affect the oc, only going off advice ive seen around the forums on here tho, i can hit 4.8ghz with 1.44v on air with my fx6300, core hits 47ºc in prime


I see what you mean about the RAM. I think my core temps arent that much higher than normal, given that I am running 1.4Ghz over stock with the FX-8120. One side of me still wants to keep pushing it, the other side is happy with the speed it is at. haha.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I considered putting the stock heatsink fan on my VRM, I am just wondering if I should have it blowing up rather than down.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I would always recommend to have the fan blowing down onto the VRM heat sink. The copper in the motherboard absorbs a lot of heat from the MosFets so blowing air over that area should have the greatest impact.


----------



## Meeks317

Hi all, I have successfully ocd my 8320 to 3.9GHz but i was wondering if i have to manually set my HT Link speed to increase farther. right now it is just taking the bus speed and multiplying by 10 for the HT Link speed. is this correct? i have my rig set up in my signature so you can see it. i have the sabertooth 990 FX R2.0 with the 8320 processor. if i have to manually set the HT Link speed what do i set it to?


----------



## PainKiller89

Hi,

I am looking to get some assistance with my 8350 chip. Currently its at 4.2ghz, the temps stay around 10 to 13c on idle. On 100% load is 30C. My questions was what will i need to do in the bios to overclock this further. My rig is updated if you need to check. I guess i need to know what to disable and what not to disable in the cpu configuration page.


----------



## aas88keyz

The original post of this thread has really good info on the questions you are asking. Try that first. It's worked for a lot of members including me.

Keep on foldin'!


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I see what you mean about the RAM. I think my core temps arent that much higher than normal, given that I am running 1.4Ghz over stock with the FX-8120. One side of me still wants to keep pushing it, the other side is happy with the speed it is at. haha.


Thats not a bad oc to be fair, i would like to be able to hit 5 on mine but 4.8 has been my absolute max, im thinking of building another rig with an 8350


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Thats not a bad oc to be fair, i would like to be able to hit 5 on mine but 4.8 has been my absolute max, im thinking of building another rig with an 8350


Yea I wish I could afford anymore upgrades. Last thing in my budget was this sleeving. ( I wonder how people get sponsors to send them parts? Lol)
Anyway, I'm hapy with my setup for now, till the day comes when some magical fairy sends me money to plan for something bigger.


----------



## 1Lt Bob

As you guys know, i got a chip that need a good amound of voltage, ( 1.572v for prime95 stable at 4.8 ghz) and that get me to about 60 Celsius on my core temps after 30 mins.

I was wondering if there is some specials settings on my Crosshair V that could make me lower it a bit?

So far the only thing i saw with my chip is that using 224 fsb make me drop the vcore a little bit compared to only multi


----------



## SalTrent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I would always recommend to have the fan blowing down onto the VRM heat sink. The copper in the motherboard conducts a lot of heat from the MosFets so blowing air over that area should have the greatest impact.


I was wondering would a large side fan (say 200mm) have the same effect? Or should I mount one over the VRM heat sink as well on my Crosshair V FORMULA.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SalTrent*
> 
> I was wondering would a large side fan (say 200mm) have the same effect? Or should I mount one over the VRM heat sink as well on my Crosshair V FORMULA.


The large fans usually rotate pretty slow. I would say you could still benefit from a fan on the VRM.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1Lt Bob*
> 
> As you guys know, i got a chip that need a good amound of voltage, ( 1.572v for prime95 stable at 4.8 ghz) and that get me to about 60 Celsius on my core temps after 30 mins.
> 
> I was wondering if there is some specials settings on my Crosshair V that could make me lower it a bit?
> 
> So far the only thing i saw with my chip is that using 224 fsb make me drop the vcore a little bit compared to only multi


The only testing I've done that has been able to give a noticeable drop in CPU voltage was the method of dropping the CPU/NB speed and voltage.

It may not be something you'd want to do seeing as you have 2400Mhz Ram, but here are the details.

CPU/NB 1800Mhz - 1.05-1.1v
Ram 1600Mhz - and in your case you could go for very tight timings
If you're using just the CPU Multiplier for OC then you can drop the CPU PLL to around ~2.1v-2.2v

Although you might have paid a premium for the 2400Mhz Ram, these FX CPU's do benefit most from 1600Mhz at tight timings.
If you decide to try this method out, I'd be interested in hearing your results. You might even be able to push for 5.0Ghz as this method also reduces temperatures.


----------



## devdevil85

So my 8350 (4.6Ghz @ 1.363V) passed Prime95 with 0 errors on all 8 cores, but towards the end of testing all cores downclocked to 9.7Mhz all at the same time and only for a split second. What would cause this? Max Socket = 60C / Max Core = 48.1C


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *devdevil85*
> 
> So my 8350 (4.6Ghz @ 1.363V) passed Prime95 with 0 errors on all 8 cores, but towards the end of testing all cores downclocked to 9.7Mhz all at the same time and only for a split second. What would cause this? Max Socket = 60C / Max Core = 48.1C


It's hard to say for certain, but most cases of the cores downclocking that low is from not having HPC Mode Enabled. Others have been fixed, in the case of Folding, with the Windows HotFix Patches that address Scheduling and Core Parking.

The Windows Patches aren't something that would come through Automatic Updates. They have be downloaded from the Windows Website.


----------



## devdevil85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> It's hard to say for certain, but most cases of the cores downclocking that low is from not having HPC Mode Enabled. Others have been fixed, in the case of Folding, with the Windows HotFix Patches that address Scheduling and Core Parking.
> 
> The Windows Patches aren't something that would come through Automatic Updates. They have be downloaded from the Windows Website.


Thanks Comp, I'll try enabling HPC and see if that works. The HotFix patches you refer to don't seem to involve Windows 8 (which is what I'm running). I'll let you know if it works.


----------



## PainKiller89

@ComputerRestore

can you please tell me what i should disable under cpu configuration to push my 8350 to 4.8ghz or more. Currently i am at 4.2ghz my temps idle are 10 to 13c. I have LLC set properly, but i wanted to know what do i need to disable under CPU configuration tab for it to overclock further.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PainKiller89*
> 
> @ComputerRestore
> 
> can you please tell me what i should disable under cpu configuration to push my 8350 to 4.8ghz or more. Currently i am at 4.2ghz my temps idle are 10 to 13c. I have LLC set properly, but i wanted to know what do i need to disable under CPU configuration tab for it to overclock further.


Read the recommended settings for 5Ghz on first page, all the settings are there, dont skip any of them and you should be able to get a decent clock out of it


----------



## PainKiller89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Read the recommended settings for 5Ghz on first page, all the settings are there, dont skip any of them and you should be able to get a decent clock out of it


Appreciated it.


----------



## Destrto

Another question for you guys. These heatsinks on the motherboard, (M5A99FX pro 2.0) does anyone happen to know how difficult they are to remove? I read a few times that people "used" to remove them and replace the thermal paste, as the kind used was fairly cheap, too much or too little applied. Is attempting this still seen as a good idea? Or have board manufacturers done a better job with newer motherboards, making replacing the thermal paste unnecessary?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Another question for you guys. These heatsinks on the motherboard, (M5A99FX pro 2.0) does anyone happen to know how difficult they are to remove? I read a few times that people "used" to remove them and replace the thermal paste, as the kind used was fairly cheap, too much or too little applied. Is attempting this still seen as a good idea? Or have board manufacturers done a better job with newer motherboards, making replacing the thermal paste unnecessary?


For the most part, manufacturers have done a much better job. Also, chipsets also experience Die shrinks so the thermals of them are much lower now.
On many of the new motherboards they use a very sticky/hard compound (I can only relate it to old gum found under a desk) which is a pain to remove.

Boards I've repasted:
- Gigabyte 990FX-UD3 - North Bridge better cooling as the Heat sink was barely touching
- M5A99FX Pro 2.0 - Maybe 2C?
- Asus Crosshair Formula IV - NB huge difference due to standoffs for heat sink being too tall/ had to modify standoffs

As for it being difficult to remove. Not really. You'll have to remove the motherboard from your case and there is just plastic tabs with springs that hold them on. The plastic tabs are very hard plastic so you need to squeeze them with pliers. Probably not worth the chance of breaking something on the board, as they're pretty good from factory.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> For the most part, manufacturers have done a much better job. Also, chipsets also experience Die shrinks so the thermals of them are much lower now.
> On many of the new motherboards they use a very sticky/hard compound (I can only relate it to old gum found under a desk) which is a pain to remove.
> 
> Boards I've repasted:
> - Gigabyte 990FX-UD3 - North Bridge better cooling as the Heat sink was barely touching
> - M5A99FX Pro 2.0 - Maybe 2C?
> - Asus Crosshair Formula IV - NB huge difference due to standoffs for heat sink being too tall/ had to modify standoffs
> 
> As for it being difficult to remove. Not really. You'll have to remove the motherboard from your case and there is just plastic tabs with springs that hold them on. The plastic tabs are very hard plastic so you need to squeeze them with pliers. Probably not worth the chance of breaking something on the board, as they're pretty good from factory.


Ok kool. just wondered about that. Ill be sure to leave them be.

BTW...Update on my endeavors to lower temps.. I have just recently been able to lower my CPU/NB voltage from 1.225V to 1.0125V. Successfully lowering my stressing temps by a few degrees C. Still no luck on raising my Cpu clock from 4.5Ghz though.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ok kool. just wondered about that. Ill be sure to leave them be.
> 
> BTW...Update on my endeavors to lower temps.. I have just recently been able to lower my CPU/NB voltage from 1.225V to 1.0125V. Successfully lowering my stressing temps by a few degrees C. Still no luck on raising my Cpu clock from 4.5Ghz though.


How high have you pushed the CPU voltage without being able to increase the frequency?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> How high have you pushed the CPU voltage without being able to increase the frequency?


Ive gone nearly 1.5V And each run of IBT results in an instability eventually. The Socket and CPU also reach passed the threshold before the test gets half way through as well. This was also before I lowered the NB voltage and left it at Auto.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ive gone nearly 1.5V And each run of IBT results in an instability eventually. The Socket and CPU also reach passed the threshold before the test gets half way through as well. This was also before I lowered the NB voltage and left it at Auto.


You should try lowering your Ram speed one notch. So if it's at the 9.33 Divider try 8.
Some of these CPUs lose stability trying to push high ram speeds when overclocking.

If it helps, at least you know why. Or you can keep pushing it with lower Ram speeds and just tighten the timings.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> You should try lowering your Ram speed one notch. So if it's at the 9.33 Divider try 8.
> Some of these CPUs lose stability trying to push high ram speeds when overclocking.
> 
> If it helps, at least you know why. Or you can keep pushing it with lower Ram speeds and just tighten the timings.


I'm admittedly not very familiar with manually changing RAM timings. I've still been using just the CPU multi to over clock, and I don't believe my board let's me alter the RAM in the way you describe, changing from 9:33 to 8. in cpu-z it shows as 1:4?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I'm admittedly not very familiar with manually changing RAM timings. I've still been using just the CPU multi to over clock, and I don't believe my board let's me alter the RAM in the way you describe, changing from 9:33 to 8. in cpu-z it shows as 1:4?


That's right. It's actually double the data rate for DDR3 so that's why for x8 it shows up in CPUz as 1:4, as well as 800Mhz, when it's actually running at 1600Mhz.

You can leave the Ram timings on Auto and they will be set by the info on the Ram Module. If it let's you overclock higher then you can get into tightening the timings.


----------



## AustinL

I am going to buy the 8350 and my cooler i would like to use would be the Corsair H100i would it be good enough for a 4.6Ghz to 4.8 oc?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AustinL*
> 
> I am going to buy the 8350 and my cooler i would like to use would be the Corsair H100i would it be good enough for a 4.6Ghz to 4.8 oc?


With the FX 8350 4.6Ghz can be had a with a $20-$30 dollar air cooler.

Most people with the H100i have reached 4.8Ghz-5.0Ghz

You will also need a decent motherboard to handle that Overclock as well.
Sabertooth/ Sabertooth 2.0
Crosshair Formula V-Z
Crosshair Formula V

It will also depend on the CPU; most 8350's can hit 4.8Ghz though.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That's right. It's actually double the data rate for DDR3 so that's why for x8 it shows up in CPUz as 1:4, as well as 800Mhz, when it's actually running at 1600Mhz.
> 
> You can leave the Ram timings on Auto and they will be set by the info on the Ram Module. If it let's you overclock higher then you can get into tightening the timings.


Yea, I knew the double data rate part, was just putting what cpu-z had as a question to see if that was the same rate you were referring to with 9.33 and 8. And since I now have realized what you were talking about, I'll give turning the RAM down to 1333Mhz and see if it makes any difference. Should be back shortly with results.


----------



## AustinL

5.0 GHz gosh good thing i was gonna get a Sabertooth but 4.8Ghz would do just fine. AND TY!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yea, I knew the double data rate part, was just putting what cpu-z had as a question to see if that was the same rate you were referring to with 9.33 and 8. And since I now have realized what you were talking about, I'll give turning the RAM down to 1333Mhz and see if it makes any difference. Should be back shortly with results.


Well, I gave it a shot. (Quite a few shots, actually) Still hitting the same wall. Anything above 4.5Ghz and it is unstable. Tried Setting the RAM to 1333, and even 1066 as well. Moving the voltage up to 1.45V even. Still unstable after a few minutes of IBT.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Well, I gave it a shot. (Quite a few shots, actually) Still hitting the same wall. Anything above 4.5Ghz and it is unstable. Tried Setting the RAM to 1333, and even 1066 as well. Moving the voltage up to 1.45V even. Still unstable after a few minutes of IBT.


Well, it was worth a shot








I've only actually seen it help from 1866Mhz down to 1600Mhz so it was a long shot.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Well, it was worth a shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only actually seen it help from 1866Mhz down to 1600Mhz so it was a long shot.


It was a good idea though. if I get a mind to, and a few drinks, I might see if I can't tweak things any further.


----------



## CannedBullets

I'm on an ASRock 970 Extreme3 with an FX-6300 but I've been using this guide, I'll try overclocking my FX-6300 tomorrow when I get back from school, hopefully it works out. When I reach what I think is my optimal voltage for my desired speed of 4.1 ghz should I keep running small ffts for a few hours or should I select the blend option? Also, after I think I've reached my optimal voltage for 4.1 ghz, how long should I run Prime95 for? A few hours? If this works out I'll start overclocking the northbridge speed next week, for tomorrow I'll leave the northbridge on its stock speed of 2000 mhz and stock voltage of 1.1875v.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I'm on an ASRock 970 Extreme3 with an FX-6300 but I've been using this guide, I'll try overclocking my FX-6300 tomorrow when I get back from school, hopefully it works out. When I reach what I think is my optimal voltage for my desired speed of 4.1 ghz should I keep running small ffts for a few hours or should I select the blend option? Also, after I think I've reached my optimal voltage for 4.1 ghz, how long should I run Prime95 for? A few hours? If this works out I'll start overclocking the northbridge speed next week, for tomorrow I'll leave the northbridge on its stock speed of 2000 mhz and stock voltage of 1.1875v.


Overclocking the north bridge hasn't shown to produce any noticeable improvements. I asked that same question a few days ago.

You can run Prime95, I've heard people suggest, for at least 12 hours. Or another popular program that I personally like better is IBT(Intel Burn Test). Much faster at finding stability than Prime. You can run IBT at High or Very High setting to make sure your voltage is adjusted properly.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Overclocking the north bridge hasn't shown to produce any noticeable improvements. I asked that same question a few days ago.
> 
> You can run Prime95, I've heard people suggest, for at least 12 hours. Or another popular program that I personally like better is IBT(Intel Burn Test). Much faster at finding stability than Prime. You can run IBT at High or Very High setting to make sure your voltage is adjusted properly.


So overclocking my NB to 2400 mhz won't make much of a difference? So I could basically leave it at its stock speed of 2000 mhz and its stock voltage throughout my PC's lifespan and the performance should be fairly good if the CPU is at 4.1 ghz right? I might try NB overclocking later on though. So how long does it take IBT to detect instability compared to Prime95?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So overclocking my NB to 2400 mhz won't make much of a difference? So I could basically leave it at its stock speed of 2000 mhz and its stock voltage throughout my PC's lifespan and the performance should be fairly good if the CPU is at 4.1 ghz right? I might try NB overclocking later on though. So how long does it take IBT to detect instability compared to Prime95?


Yes, I have been told that it is actually recommended to leave the Northbridge and HT Link speed at stock.

I've tested mine at every speed from 1800 to 2800, and there has been no noticeable difference.

IBT will find instabilities in your settings within minutes on a standard test.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, I have been told that it is actually recommended to leave the Northbridge and HT Link speed at stock.
> 
> I've tested mine at every speed from 1800 to 2800, and there has been no noticeable difference.
> 
> IBT will find instabilities in your settings within minutes on a standard test.


So if I go with IBT to test my stability instead of Prime95 after I think I've found my optimal voltage for 4.1 ghz how long should I leave it on for if it doesn't detect any instabilities? IBT will work fine for piledriver FX CPUs right? Also, what's the difference between the very high and high option for IBT? Is there much of a difference?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So if I go with IBT to test my stability instead of Prime95 after I think I've found my optimal voltage for 4.1 ghz how long should I leave it on for if it doesn't detect any instabilities? IBT will work fine for piledriver FX CPUs right?


IBT works for just about any Chip. you set it to run however long you want. default is a10 run test, usually takes anywhere from 3 to 7 minutes to complete.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> IBT works for just about any Chip. you set it to run however long you want. default is a10 run test, usually takes anywhere from 3 to 7 minutes to complete.


Okay, I just downloaded IBT, I'm doing a test run of it to get a feel for the software I just left every thing on its default settings and picked Very high for the stress level clicked start and now its running, how long should this take? Because it didn't give an indication of how long the test would take, 3 to 7 minutes like you suggested?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, I just downloaded IBT, I'm doing a test run of it to get a feel for the software I just left every thing on its default settings and picked Very high for the stress level clicked start and now its running, how long should this take? Because it didn't give an indication of how long the test would take, 3 to 7 minutes like you suggested?


Standard stress level will take 3 to 7 minutes. Very High will take quite a bit longer. The nice thing about IBT is that there really arent any settings to mess with. Just pick what stress level, how many runs, and let it work.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Standard stress level will take 3 to 7 minutes. Very High will take quite a bit longer. The nice thing about IBT is that there really arent any settings to mess with. Just pick what stress level, how many runs, and let it work.


Okay, so after I achieve what I think is my optimal voltage, I can run IBT for ten runs on very high, and if it says my CPU is stable, it should be fine right? Just like running Prime95 for 12 hours?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, so after I achieve what I think is my optimal voltage, I can run IBT for ten runs on very high, and if it says my CPU is stable, it should be fine right? Just like running Prime95 for 12 hours?


It would give similar results, yes. and you can select more than 10 runs if, say, you want to burn in your thermal paste or check for long term temperature fluctuations

My system completes 1 standard run in 22 seconds. 1 High run in roughly 68 seconds. the higher your stress level, the longer each run will take.

Also be sure to make note of the result code it gives you for each run. They should all be the same for each completed run. If one or more is not, it indicates instability.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> It would give similar results, yes. and you can select more than 10 runs if, say, you want to burn in your thermal paste or check for long term temperature fluctuations
> 
> My system completes 1 standard run in 22 seconds. 1 High run in roughly 68 seconds. the higher your stress level, the longer each run will take.
> 
> Also be sure to make note of the result code it gives you for each run. They should all be the same for each completed run. If one or more is not, it indicates instability.


Alright, I think after I think I have the right voltage I'll do 25 runs of IBT on Very High, I did some google searching and they said 20 stable passes of IBT means your system should be stable, but an extra 5 passes shouldn't hurt.

Also, If I get an instability failure in IBT after testing what I think is my optimal voltage, should I just bump up the voltage one notch and see if that works?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Alright, I think after I think I have the right voltage I'll do 25 runs of IBT on Very High, I did some google searching and they said 20 stable passes of IBT means your system should be stable, but an extra 5 passes shouldn't hurt.
> 
> Also, If I get an instability failure in IBT after testing what I think is my optimal voltage, should I just bump up the voltage one notch and see if that works?


Thats the recommended step, yes. Just one notch each time until you can run a complete 20-25 run test (if you so choose) without crashing, freezing, or IBT alerting you to an instability. Also, make sure your system is not "core parking" or throttling down when stressed. There have been a few cases listed where that has been an issue with FX CPUs.

When IBT gives you an unstable warning, it's not ALWAYS because your voltage is too low. It could be your NB voltage, RAM voltage or speed, OR Vcore(back to CPU voltage)


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thats the recommended step, yes. Just one notch each time until you can run a complete 20-25 run test (if you so choose) without crashing, freezing, or IBT alerting you to an instability. Also, make sure your system is not "core parking" or throttling down when stressed. There have been a few cases listed where that has been an issue with FX CPUs.
> 
> When IBT gives you an unstable warning, it's not ALWAYS because your voltage is too low. It could be your NB voltage, RAM voltage or speed, OR Vcore(back to CPU voltage)


So how can I tell if its not my voltage being too low and that its something else like my RAM voltage or RAM speed?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So how can I tell if its not my voltage being too low and that its something else like my RAM voltage or RAM speed?


Thats honestly, the tricky part. There is no easy way to tell. Start with CPU voltage. bump it up one notch, run the test again. If you pass, congrats, thats what you needed. If you get to where you are bumping up your Vcore quite a few notches and still fail IBT, look into something else as the culprit.

It is mainly a trial and error process. Try one, if that does not work, try the next, and so forth.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thats honestly, the tricky part. There is no easy way to tell. Start with CPU voltage. bump it up one notch, run the test again. If you pass, congrats, thats what you needed. If you get to where you are bumping up your Vcore quite a few notches and still fail IBT, look into something else as the culprit.
> 
> It is mainly a trial and error process. Try one, if that does not work, try the next, and so forth.


Oh, well I think my RAM should be fine at DDR3-1600 in dual channel at 1.5v. It might be the NB Voltage if the CPU voltage doesn't affect the stability test.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Oh, well I think my RAM should be fine at DDR3-1600 in dual channel at 1.5v. It might be the NB Voltage if the CPU voltage doesn't affect the stability test.


Thats the same step I would take as well. If you have NB voltage set to auto in BIOS, you should be fine there. And should focus on CPU voltage first.

Remember also, it is not necessary to test your system on High or Very High within IBT to determine stability. Anything more than Standard is mainly for temperature torture.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thats the same step I would take as well. If you have NB voltage set to auto in BIOS, you should be fine there. And should focus on CPU voltage first.
> 
> Remember also, it is not necessary to test your system on High or Very High within IBT to determine stability. Anything more than Standard is mainly for temperature torture.


So its okay to leave my NB voltage on auto? What about HT voltage? Do I leave that on auto?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So its okay to leave my NB voltage on auto? What about HT voltage? Do I leave that on auto?


Yes, reading through the guide at the beginning of this thread, it is fine to leave both of those at auto. Just keep track of your recorded temps while stress testing.

I personally had an issue with my Socket temp (NB) getting too hot, so I had to manually tweak my NB voltage a little lower to maintain acceptable temperatures during tests.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, reading through the guide at the beginning of this thread, it is fine to leave both of those at auto. Just keep track of your recorded temps while stress testing.
> 
> I personally had an issue with my Socket temp (NB) getting too hot, so I had to manually tweak my NB voltage a little lower to maintain acceptable temperatures during tests.


What about CPU VDDA and PCIE VDDA voltage? I have no idea what to set those to or what they do but I'm assuming you can just set them to auto. I'll manually set my RAM voltage at 1.5.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> What about CPU VDDA and PCIE VDDA? I have no idea what to set those to or what they do but I'm assuming you can just set them to auto. I'll manually set my RAM voltage at 1.5.


Leave most of those at auto. The only voltage setting you need to manually alter right now is CPU Vcore. If you're attempting to overclock with just the Multiplier, everything else will stay at its auto or stock settings.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Leave most of those at auto. The only voltage setting you need to manually alter right now is CPU Vcore. If you're attempting to overclock with just the Multiplier, everything else will stay at its auto or stock settings.


So I can leave the RAM voltage on auto and not on 1.5?


----------



## Destrto

Unless you have an XMP profile for your RAM that requires higher than stock voltage, You should be fine leaving it at auto.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Unless you have an XMP profile for your RAM that requires higher than stock voltage, You should be fine leaving it at auto.


Oh, well my RAM runs at 1.5v by default, my motherboard autodetected my RAM as 1333 so I had to manually set the speed in the bios to 1600, which was its marketed speed.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Oh, well my RAM runs at 1.5v by default, my motherboard autodetected my RAM as 1333 so I had to manually set the speed in the bios to 1600, which was its marketed speed.


Yea some boards do that, my ASUS board did the same thing. If you leave the voltage at auto, set the RAM to its rated 1600, and restart into BIOS. It SHOULD remain at 1.5V.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yea some boards do that, my ASUS board did the same thing. If you leave the voltage at auto, set the RAM to its rated 1600, and restart into BIOS. It SHOULD remain at 1.5V.


Yeah I did that a long time ago so it should be fine. Its in dual channel also.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yea some boards do that, my ASUS board did the same thing. If you leave the voltage at auto, set the RAM to its rated 1600, and restart into BIOS. It SHOULD remain at 1.5V.


Also, should I disable thermal throttling? Will that affect my overclock negatively?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I did that a long time ago so it should be fine. Its in dual channel also.


Ok good. Yea just go through little by little, run IBT, see if you are stable. If you are, try raising your clock one notch and testing again till you reach your desired clock. If it crashes, freezes or gives you a warning, bump your voltage up a notch till you reach stability.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ok good. Yea just go through little by little, run IBT, see if you are stable. If you are, try raising your clock one notch and testing again till you reach your desired clock. If it crashes, freezes or gives you a warning, bump your voltage up a notch till you reach stability.


Yeah I'm planning onm the ten minute Prime95 test method from the guide, then using IBT 25 runs to see if its stable. So I'm guessing I leave CPU Thermal Throttle on disabled?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I'm planning onm the ten minute Prime95 test method from the guide, then using IBT 25 runs to see if its stable. So I'm guessing I leave CPU Thermal Throttle on disabled?


Yes. that CPU spread spectrum as well. The guide is very well written, and pretty much covers all the features within BIOS that are unnecessary.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes. that CPU spread spectrum as well. The guide is very well written, and pretty much covers all the features within BIOS that are unnecessary.


Yeah its just that I couldn't find anything relating to a setting labeled as "CPU Thermal Control" but I'm on an ASRock board and not an Asus board like the guide was based around.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah its just that I couldn't find anything relating to a setting labeled as "CPU Thermal Control" but I'm on an ASRock board and not an Asus board like the guide was based around.


I had that Asrock board before this ASUS one. I dont believe there is a setting for that. Closest thing is CPU spread spectrum.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I had that Asrock board before this ASUS one. I dont believe there is a setting for that. Closest thing is CPU spread spectrum.


Alright, it was in the motherboard manual. I'm also at the latest bios version. I didn't update it myself, my motherboard was already at the latest bios version most likely because it was manufactured after the latest bios update.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Alright, it was in the motherboard manual. I'm also at the latest bios version. I didn't update it myself, my motherboard was already at the latest bios version most likely because it was manufactured after the latest bios update.


Most likely. You should be fine though for testing. It's not too difficult really. Just takes time and patience. Once you get started with it, you'll get a feel for whats needed and how far you can push things.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Most likely. You should be fine though for testing. It's not too difficult really. Just takes time and patience. Once you get started with it, you'll get a feel for whats needed and how far you can push things.


Yep, fingers crossed, hopefully this works. Also, what should I do if my motherboard catches on fire? Do I just spray a fire extinguisher at it or do I turn off the power supply and wait for it to burn out by itself?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yep, fingers crossed, hopefully this works. Also, what should I do if my motherboard catches on fire? Do I just spray a fire extinguisher at it or do I turn off the power supply and wait for it to burn out by itself?


If your Board catches fire you should fall to the floor and cry a lot...Also, video record it too.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> If your Board catches fire you should fall to the floor and cry a lot...Also, video record it too.


So there's a low chance of it happening?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So there's a low chance of it happening?


Yes. Very low. The board and pretty much everything else plugged in has very touchy safety precautions built in. Thats why the computer crashes, freezes and does other things that let you know something is not right.

You would have to be doing something very dangerous and very irresponsible to actually cause a motherboard to catch fire. Overclocking your processor a little...does not fall into that category.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes. Very low. The board and pretty much everything else plugged in has very touchy safety precautions built in. Thats why the computer crashes, freezes and does other things that let you know something is not right.
> 
> You would have to be doing something very dangerous and very irresponsible to actually cause a motherboard to catch fire. Overclocking your processor a little...does not fall into that category.


Well that's good to know. I'm heading off, I'll update on what happens tomorrow if my overclock is successful or unsuccessful, most likely in a new thread.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well that's good to know. I'm heading off, I'll update on what happens tomorrow if my overclock is successful or unsuccessful, most likely in a new thread.


Nothing wrong with posting the results here. And if you reach 1Ghz over stock, make sure you post it HERE


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Nothing wrong with posting the results here. And if you reach 1Ghz over stock, make sure you post it HERE


Just asking because you used to have the same motherboard as me. What should I do with this setting called "Overclock Mode"? Do I leave it on auto or manual? Because when its on manual it shows "CPU Frequency" and "PCIE Frequency." I'm not sure what to do with those settings and I can't find a guide which shows what to do with those settings. Right now I'm assuming that you leave it on manual and have the "CPU Frequency" and "PCIE Frequency" set to their stock values.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Just asking because you used to have the same motherboard as me. What should I do with this setting called "Overclock Mode"? Do I leave it on auto or manual? Because when its on manual it shows "CPU Frequency" and "PCIE Frequency." I'm not sure what to do with those settings and I can't find a guide which shows what to do with those settings. Right now I'm assuming that you leave it on manual and have the "CPU Frequency" and "PCIE Frequency" set to their stock values.


I believe that should be Manual. Auto will "automatically" try to set the overclock settings based on your system specs. Best to do that kind of stuff yourself.
If you dont see those settings within your BIOS, just leave them be. They are set to auto by default whether you can see the setting or not.

But yes you are correct, if you CAN see those settings, set them to manual, and leave them at stock values. That forces them to stay at stock.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I believe that should be Manual. Auto will "automatically" try to set the overclock settings based on your system specs. Best to do that kind of stuff yourself.
> If you dont see those settings within your BIOS, just leave them be. They are set to auto by default whether you can see the setting or not.
> 
> But yes you are correct, if you CAN see those settings, set them to manual, and leave them at stock values. That forces them to stay at stock.


Alright I'll leave them at stock. Yeah if I remember correctly "Overclock Mode" set to manual showed the CPU Frequency at 200 mhz and the PCIE Frequency at 100 mhz.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Alright I'll leave them at stock. Yeah if I remember correctly "Overclock Mode" set to manual showed the CPU Frequency at 200 mhz and the PCIE Frequency at 100 mhz.


Right, If you're overclocking using just the multiplier, then both of those values should stay at their stock numbers.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, so I'm typing all this on my laptop and I just disabled all the settings and I set the multiplier for my desktop. The thing is that when I selected "Save Changes and Exit" in the bios, the PC just shut itself off completely and restarted by itself. Is that normal? I'm running Prime95 right now.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, so I'm typing all this on my laptop and I just disabled all the settings and I set the multiplier for my desktop. The thing is that when I selected "Save Changes and Exit" in the bios, the PC just shut itself off completely and restarted by itself. Is that normal? I'm running Prime95 right now.


Completely normal

It will do that anytime you change a value like the multiplier or FSB speed.

DONT FREAK OUT! Lol.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Completely normal


Okay good, I'm testing it on 3.7 ghz with stock voltage, 3.6 ghz was a pass. My temperature under Prime95 load peaked at 55 degrees C, compared to the 50 degrees C I got when i tested Prime95 at my CPU's stock speed.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay good, I'm testing it on 3.7 ghz with stock voltage, 3.6 ghz was a pass. My temperature under Prime95 load peaked at 55 degrees C, compared to the 50 degrees C I got when i tested Prime95 at my CPU's stock speed.


Ive read most of your conversation, the 6300 should hit 4.1ghz easily on stock voltage with that board, it was 4.2 i had to start adding voltage, im at 4.5 with 1.44v


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Ive read most of your conversation, the 6300 should hit 4.1ghz easily on stock voltage with that board, it was 4.2 i had to start adding voltage, im at 4.5 with 1.44v


I was at 3.9 ghz on the stock voltage when my CPU got hot at 63 degrees C and throttled itself. I set the voltage up one notch and the next runs for 3.9 and 4.0 didn't throttle. I'm doing 4.1 ghz right now. CPU Z said the vcore is at about 1.312, but when I'm running Prime 95 it jumps to 1.360 volts for some reason. After I pass ten minutes of this Prime95 run I'll do Intel Burn Test on Very High for 25 runs.


----------



## CannedBullets

Huh, that's weird, my CPU throttles itself to a speed of about 1.4 ghz for a short time then it goes back to 4.1 ghz.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, I passed the ten minute Prime95 small ffts test. Core Voltage is at 1.312, speed is 4.1 ghz. I'm conducting 25 runs of Intel Burn Test right now with the stress level set to Very High. Hopefully this works out. Is it normal for a CPU to throttle itself from 1.4 ghz for a short time then back to 4.1 ghz?


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, the ninth test failed. My error code for prime95 was 5.881036e+012


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Huh, that's weird, my CPU throttles itself to a speed of about 1.4 ghz for a short time then it goes back to 4.1 ghz.


That sounds like cool n quite mode nonsense and turbo. Make sure all that is disabled, unless that's what you're shooting for. See Op.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> That sounds like cool n quite mode nonsense and turbo. Make sure all that is disabled, unless that's what you're shooting for. See Op.


Yeah I just restarted my PC to go into the bios to see if they were turned off and they were turned off. Someone else in a different thread mentioned that the VRM might be throttling because it gets too hot or something like that.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I was at 3.9 ghz on the stock voltage when my CPU got hot at 63 degrees C and throttled itself. I set the voltage up one notch and the next runs for 3.9 and 4.0 didn't throttle. I'm doing 4.1 ghz right now. CPU Z said the vcore is at about 1.312, but when I'm running Prime 95 it jumps to 1.360 volts for some reason. After I pass ten minutes of this Prime95 run I'll do Intel Burn Test on Very High for 25 runs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I just restarted my PC to go into the bios to see if they were turned off and they were turned off. Someone else in a different thread mentioned that the VRM might be throttling because it gets too hot or something like that.


4.1ghz is the turbo speed for the 6300 so it should be fine with stock voltage, the throttling could be due to vrm's overheating but i cant see why they would at just 4.1 with a little increase in stock voltage, run blended tests on prime for a minimum of 2 hours monitoring your temps, other than that the only reason i can think your cpu would throttle is the core parking, if you havent already, install the two windows hotfix patches to fix core parking in windows 7 for bulldozer/piledriver chips


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I just restarted my PC to go into the bios to see if they were turned off and they were turned off. Someone else in a different thread mentioned that the VRM might be throttling because it gets too hot or something like that.


Download and install the hot fixes for "core parking"


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Download and install the hot fixes for "core parking"


That could be the issue?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> That could be the issue?


Most likely, yes. I, and a number of other users experienced the same throttling when stressing. Those hotfixes fixed it. There are 2 like he says above, both may work, only one may work. Both are not necessary.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay I should mention that I'm on Windows 8 so I'm not sure if they have that fix for available. Also when I was running Intel Burn Test my PC failed the 9th test so I had to bump the vcore up one notch and it was able to pass 50 tests on standard stress level. Also, I might need to get a better cooler because I noticed that during stress testing my PC throttles itself when the socket reaches 61 degrees C. I'm not entirely sure if the core temperature HWMonitor gives is completely accurate because it usually says the CPU is around 30 to 40 degrees C when the socket temperature is 61 degrees C.

I should also mention that when I was just doing stuff like internet browsing when overclocked it was actually slower and would sometimes freeze requiring a hard reboot because I couldn't open up Task Manager or anything like that, also the mouse cursor in Counter Strike: Global Offensive's main menu was really laggy, and when I reset my bios to its stock configuration, the performance in basic stuff like internet browsing was a lot better. Also, when I was overclocked my PC froze on me after a couple hours of Skyrim because I tried to use Steam's in-game internet browser and it froze when I tried to scroll down a link I clicked, it had a longer than usual load time also.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay I should mention that I'm on Windows 8 so I'm not sure if they have that fix for available. Also when I was running Intel Burn Test my PC failed the 9th test so I had to bump the vcore up one notch and it was able to pass 50 tests on standard stress level. Also, I might need to get a better cooler because I noticed that during stress testing my PC throttles itself when the socket reaches 61 degrees C. I'm not entirely sure if the core temperature HWMonitor gives is completely accurate because it usually says the CPU is around 30 to 40 degrees C when the socket temperature is 61 degrees C.
> 
> I should also mention that when I was just doing stuff like internet browsing when overclocked it was actually slower and would sometimes freeze requiring a hard reboot because I couldn't open up Task Manager or anything like that, also the mouse cursor in Counter Strike: Global Offensive's main menu was really laggy, and when I reset my bios to its stock configuration, the performance in basic stuff like internet browsing was a lot better. Also, when I was overclocked my PC froze on me after a couple hours of Skyrim because I tried to use Steam's in-game internet browser and it froze when I tried to scroll down a link I clicked, it had a longer than usual load time also.


Sadly, Win8 does not have a fix currently. Although there are a couple workarounds available on Youtube.

If there is not enough cooling on the socket heatsink, it will rise faster than the CPU. If you havent already, try the extra fan method explained in the Tips section of the guide.

If you are still crashing and freezing, it would suggest a RAM issue.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Sadly, Win8 does not have a fix currently. Although there are a couple workarounds available on Youtube.
> 
> If there is not enough cooling on the socket heatsink, it will rise faster than the CPU. If you havent already, try the extra fan method explained in the Tips section of the guide.
> 
> If you are still crashing and freezing, it would suggest a RAM issue.


So if the socket's max temperature is 72 degrees C as explained in the guide, 61 degrees C would be good right? Also, would getting a closed-loop liquid cooler help with socket temperature or does it only affect CPU cooling? Also, how long should it take for Windows 8 to receive such a patch?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So if the socket's max temperature is 72 degrees C as explained in the guide, 61 degrees C would be good right? Also, would getting a closed-loop liquid cooler help with socket temperature or does it only affect CPU cooling? Also, how long should it take for Windows 8 to receive such a patch?


Yes, Socket temp of 61C is fine.
And no, the socket temp would not be affected much with a closed loop cooler. Thats why the tips section in the guide shows putting a small fan on top or behind the heatsink next to the CPU. So it can get its own airflow.

ANd there really is no telling when Win8 will receive a patch for that.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So if the socket's max temperature is 72 degrees C as explained in the guide, 61 degrees C would be good right? Also, would getting a closed-loop liquid cooler help with socket temperature or does it only affect CPU cooling? Also, how long should it take for Windows 8 to receive such a patch?


Hi CannedBullets -

Keeping the CPU cool does effect Socket Temps.
It generally works like this
Socket Temps
8 Core CPU: 10-15 C greater than Core Temp @ 100% Load
6 Core CPU: 7-10 C greater than Core Temp @ 100% Load
4 Core CPU: 0-7 C greater than Core Temp @ 100% Load

If your Socket Temp is greater than that range, then you need better case airflow. A fan on the VRM or blowing on the back of the socket will help as well.

Not sure what settings ASRock has, but it's generally the Power Saving Features or HPC Mode being Disabled that will cause throttling when the Socket reaches a certain temperature.

Windows 8 already has the AMD Module Design patches built into it. So you wont have to worry about updates for that.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hi CannedBullets -
> 
> Keeping the CPU cool does effect Socket Temps.
> It generally works like this
> Socket Temps
> 8 Core CPU: 10-15 C greater than Core Temp @ 100% Load
> 6 Core CPU: 7-10 C greater than Core Temp @ 100% Load
> 4 Core CPU: 0-7 C greater than Core Temp @ 100% Load
> 
> If your Socket Temp is greater than that range, then you need better case airflow. A fan on the VRM or blowing on the back of the socket will help as well.
> 
> Not sure what settings ASRock has, but it's generally the Power Saving Features or HPC Mode being Disabled that will cause throttling when the Socket reaches a certain temperature.
> 
> Windows 8 already has the AMD Module Design patches built into it. So you wont have to worry about updates for that.


There was another member having issues with HPC mode CAUSING his system to throttle down at load. Devdevil85 I believe. I talked with him at length about that. When he disabled it again, the throttling went away.

Might have been a fluke error though.


----------



## CannedBullets

You know I think I have HPC mode enabled, I'll have to check my bios again. So the socket temperature getting 61 degrees C is good right? Which means the core temp is around 54 degrees C if the core temp is 7 degrees C less than the socket temp for FX 6-cores right? I know I have all the power saving features disabled but I think HPC mode is still enabled. Maybe HPC mode is causing me to freeze?

Except I'm freezing in minor stuff like internet browsing for some reason.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> You know I think I have HPC mode enabled, I'll have to check my bios again. So the socket temperature getting 61 degrees C is good right? Which means the core temp is around 54 degrees C if the core temp is 7 degrees C less than the socket temp for FX 6-cores right? I know I have all the power saving features disabled but I think HPC mode is still enabled. Maybe HPC mode is causing me to freeze?


It may be, just saying there may be a slight chance. SInce there was one other member who had that issue and ran Windows 8.

ComputerRestore would know more on that than I.

And IMO those temps look good. One thing to look at, try turning down your NB speed if you havent already, to 2000Mhz maybe.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> It may be, just saying there may be a slight chance. SInce there was one other member who had that issue and ran Windows 8.
> 
> ComputerRestore would know more on that than I.
> 
> And IMO those temps look good. One thing to look at, try turning down your NB speed if you havent already, to 2000Mhz maybe.


Well my NB speed is at stock, the same goes for NB voltage. I set the bus speed to manual at its stock value of 200 but that didn't do anything. I mean if HPC mode causes issues under load, why was my PC freezing during minor stuff like internet browsing?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well my NB speed is at stock, the same goes for NB voltage. I set the bus speed to manual at its stock value of 200 but that didn't do anything. I mean if HPC mode causes issues under load, why was my PC freezing during minor stuff like internet browsing?


Try turning your Nb speed down to 2000, stock is 2200 I believe.

The freezes under minimal load suggest to me that it is a RAM issue. But I could very well be mistaken. Is your RAM overclocked at all?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Try turning your Nb speed down to 2000, stock is 2200 I believe.
> 
> The freezes under minimal load suggest to me that it is a RAM issue. But I could very well be mistaken. Is your RAM overclocked at all?


My RAM is not overclocked, my motherboard autodetected it at 1333 mhz RAM but I bumped it back up to 1600 mhz because that is the marketed speed for it. The timings are on marketed speed also and its dual channel.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> You know I think I have HPC mode enabled, I'll have to check my bios again. So the socket temperature getting 61 degrees C is good right? Which means the core temp is around 54 degrees C if the core temp is 7 degrees C less than the socket temp for FX 6-cores right? I know I have all the power saving features disabled but I think HPC mode is still enabled. Maybe HPC mode is causing me to freeze?
> 
> Except I'm freezing in minor stuff like internet browsing for some reason.


To elaborate on what I posted.

@ 100% Load if the Socket Temp is greater than 7-10C than your Core/Package temp then you need better case airflow. It's not a way of measuring your core temp.

It's possible that on the ASRock motherboards HPC causes issues. HPC seems to operate differently for all manufacturers.
LLC Functions can also cause Freezing - for example on some of the M5A97 Asus boards, running anything other than Auto LLC will cause issues.

If you are running stock Ram, NB, HTT etc and adding extra CPU or CPU/NB voltage doesn't help, then you should look further into your BIOS settings.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> My RAM is not overclocked, my motherboard autodetected it at 1333 mhz RAM but I bumped it back up to 1600 mhz because that is the marketed speed for it. The timings are on marketed speed also and its dual channel.


Have you set your RAM voltage up to compensate for the "overclock" of the RAM? To me, that sounds like the issue.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Have you set your RAM voltage up to compensate for the "overclock" of the RAM? To me, that sounds like the issue.


I haven't put my RAM voltage up. Its on auto so it should be at 1.5v because my RAM runs at 1.5v on 1600 mhz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> To elaborate on what I posted.
> 
> @ 100% Load if the Socket Temp is greater than 7-10C than your Core/Package temp then you need better case airflow. It's not a way of measuring your core temp.
> 
> It's possible that on the ASRock motherboards HPC causes issues. HPC seems to operate differently for all manufacturers.
> LLC Functions can also cause Freezing - for example on some of the M5A97 Asus boards, running anything other than Auto LLC will cause issues.
> 
> If you are running stock Ram, NB, HTT etc and adding extra CPU or CPU/NB voltage doesn't help, then you should look further into your BIOS settings.


I have LLC disabled because on the ASRock Extreme series thread in the motherboard forum they said I should have it disabled for FX CPUs. I haven't tinkered with the NB voltage at all though, I left that on stock.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I haven't put my RAM voltage up. Its on auto so it should be at 1.5v because my RAM runs at 1.5v on 1600 mhz.
> I have LLC disabled because on the ASRock Extreme series thread in the motherboard forum they said I should have it disabled for FX CPUs. I haven't tinkered with the NB voltage at all though, I left that on stock.


Ok, thats fine then for the voltage.

For LLC, I know mine was wonky until i got the latest BIOS update when I had the ASRock 970 Extreme4. But LLC helps quite a bit with Vdroop and possible crashes.

Remember, each motherboard will operate differently from another's. Just because an entire forum says not to do something with your board, if it wont work the way they say it should, You're left with doing what they tell you not to do.

Like in Devdevil85's case, HPC, in the guide, should be turned on. But in his case, it needed to be turned off in order for his system to maintain stability.


----------



## CannedBullets

Hmm, maybe I have to enable LLC. I'm not sure whether or not to put it to auto or enabled. Because when I throttle under load my voltage goes from like 1.36 to 0.88 and my clockspeed drops to 1.4 ghz. I've also found out something weird and its that I don't have a setting for HPC mode in the motherboard bios at all. Iooked at every setting and every page in the motherboard bios but I cannot find it at all. I don't know if ASRock has a different name for it but even if it did I'm sure I could have found it, but right now my motherboard has no option for HPC mode and I'm on the latest bios version also.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I haven't put my RAM voltage up. Its on auto so it should be at 1.5v because my RAM runs at 1.5v on 1600 mhz.
> I have LLC disabled because on the ASRock Extreme series thread in the motherboard forum they said I should have it disabled for FX CPUs. I haven't tinkered with the NB voltage at all though, I left that on stock.


No wonder it is throttling, the llc is used to control the voltages when oc'ing, if your ram is stock, everything else is more or less stock and your having issues id say its likely to be the llc being disabled, set it to auto and see if it helps the browsing etc.

Using an asrock guide then jumping on here for advice i find a little strange though


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> No wonder it is throttling, the llc is used to control the voltages when oc'ing, if your ram is stock, everything else is more or less stock and your having issues id say its likely to be the llc being disabled, set it to auto and see if it helps the browsing etc.
> 
> Using an asrock guide then jumping on here for advice i find a little strange though


Well it wasn't an ASRock guide, it was more of an ASRock Extreme series owners club and they said I should leave LLC disabled if I can't set my LLC to 1/2 LLC (which I can't, the only options are enabled, auto, and disabled). Also I checked my NB speed and voltage, they're both at stock values and the stock speed for NB multiplier for me is 2000 mhz. In hindsight, I should have spent more money for an Asus board in 8+2 phase because Asus seems to have the best community support for overclocking.

But would LLC really help for my freezing during internet browsing issue? I thought that was mainly for helping prevent vdroop under load.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well it wasn't an ASRock guide, it was more of an ASRock Extreme series owners club and they said I should leave LLC disabled if I can't set my LLC to 1/2 LLC (which I can't, the only options are enabled, auto, and disabled). Also I checked my NB speed and voltage, they're both at stock values and the stock speed for NB multiplier for me is 2000 mhz. In hindsight, I should have spent more money for an Asus board in 8+2 phase because Asus seems to have the best community support for overclocking.
> 
> But would LLC really help for my freezing during internet browsing issue? I thought that was mainly for helping prevent vdroop under load.


Yes, it definitely would help. When your CPU goes under heavy load, or any load, that LLC helps maintain a stable voltage and in turn a stable clock speed. Your clock speed is dropping because it cannot maintain the proper voltage to do so.
Setting it to Auto helped when I had my ASRock board.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, it definitely would help. When your CPU goes under heavy load, or any load, that LLC helps maintain a stable voltage and in turn a stable clock speed. Your clock speed is dropping because it cannot maintain the proper voltage to do so.
> Setting it to Auto helped when I had my ASRock board.


Okay, so it could be LLC which is the issue. So putting LLC on auto could make it stable during minor stuff like internet browsing right? Also, what's the difference between enabled and auto for LLC?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, so it could be LLC which is the issue. So putting LLC on auto could make it stable during minor stuff like internet browsing right? Also, what's the difference between enabled and auto for LLC?


Honestly, you will have to set it to each, and test for yourself whether it helps or not. It may be different for you than it was for me.
But setting it to auto or enabled might help with your freezing under minimal load. Test it out and see.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, I just loaded the save profile for my overclock. this time I set the LLC to auto, I'm looking at my voltage in HWMonmitor (my CPU voltage is set at 1.3125) and my voltage is not dropping under 1.288. This is promising so far.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, I just loaded the save profile for my overclock. this time I set the LLC to auto, I'm looking at my voltage in HWMonmitor (my CPU voltage is set at 1.3125) and my voltage is not dropping under 1.288. This is promising so far.


If 1.31 was needed to maintain initial stability, I would bump your voltage so that the drop under load doesnt go below that.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, I had to go all the way up to 1.35. When I had LLC set to enabled, my CPU throttled to 1.4 ghz and 0.88v and would not go back up to 4.1 ghz and 1.33-35. When I had LLC enabled with the voltage set to 1.35 v it failed Intel Burn Test on the 20th test. So yeah, I'm back to stock and I don't think I'll try overclocking right now, maybe later, it could be the NB voltage, I don't know. If I need to upgrade my CPU I'll probably get a Steamroller 6-core CPU instead because right now overclocking is getting annoying.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, I had to go all the way up to 1.35. When I had LLC set to enabled, my CPU throttled to 1.4 ghz and 0.88v and would not go back up to 4.1 ghz and 1.33-35. When I had LLC enabled with the voltage set to 1.35 v it failed Intel Burn Test on the 20th test. So yeah, I'm back to stock and I don't think I'll try overclocking right now, maybe later, it could be the NB voltage, I don't know. If I need to upgrade my CPU I'll probably get a Steamroller 6-core CPU instead because right now overclocking is getting annoying.


Thats just the way it goes. Trial and error. There is no easy way to do things in terms of overclocking. It could just be the board, and not anything else. Some boards are just better suited to overclocking than others.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thats just the way it goes. Trial and error. There is no easy way to do things in terms of overclocking. It could just be the board, and not anything else. Some boards are just better suited to overclocking than others.


So if I try altering the NB voltage, do I alter the CPU/NB Voltage under the CPU configuration section or the NB Voltage in the Voltage Configuration section? Because I'm not sure which to alter.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So if I try altering the NB voltage, do I alter the CPU/NB Voltage under the CPU configuration section or the NB Voltage in the Voltage Configuration section? Because I'm not sure which to alter.


CPU/NB voltage. The one that is right underneath CPU voltage.

Or you could leave it to auto, and reduce your NB speed from 2000Mhz to 1800Mhz. Have you been trying to stress your system since trying LLC on Enabled and Auto both?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> CPU/NB voltage. The one that is right underneath CPU voltage.
> 
> Or you could leave it to auto, and reduce your NB speed from 2000Mhz to 1800Mhz. Have you been trying to stress your system since trying LLC on Enabled and Auto both?


Yeah, I was at 1.35 and I tried both auto and enabled, it didn't work, on auto it throttled the CPU speed and voltage and it wouldn't go back and it won't let me set CPU/NB voltage to auto, only its voltage multipliers, I might try raising the CPU/NB voltage up a notch or two and lower the CPU voltage by a notch or two.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah, I was at 1.35 and I tried both auto and enabled, it didn't work, on auto it throttled the CPU speed and voltage and it wouldn't go back and it won't let me set CPU/NB voltage to auto, only its voltage multipliers, I might try raising the CPU/NB voltage up a notch or two and lower the CPU voltage by a notch or two.


Lowering the CPU voltage will only hurt your stability, cause i doubt anything is getting too hot besides maybe your NB heatsink. You could try raising the NB voltage, see if that helps any.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Lowering the CPU voltage will only hurt your stability, cause i doubt anything is getting too hot besides maybe your NB heatsink. You could try raising the NB voltage, see if that helps any.


1.35 sounds kind of high for 4.1 ghz, then again there was another member on these forums who said he needed 1.37v for his FX-6300 on 4.2 ghz. So what's the maximum voltage I should apply for CPU/NB? I know the maximum voltage for the CPU is 1.55v. Also, would raising the NB voltage raise the temperature? Also, if the raising the NB voltage doesn't do anything, could there be a chance that my Hyper 212 EVO isn't enough? Because I think the highest temperature I saw today during stress testing was 62 degrees C, but that's for the socket, the CPU core temp on HWMonitor was kind of inaccurate giving me readings of 46 degrees C for the core temp when my socket was 61-62 degrees C.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 1.35 sounds kind of high for 4.1 ghz, then again there was another member on these forums who said he needed 1.37v for his FX-6300 on 4.2 ghz. So what's the maximum voltage I should apply for CPU/NB? I know the maximum voltage for the CPU is 1.55v. Also, would raising the NB voltage raise the temperature? Also, if the raising the NB voltage doesn't do anything, could there be a chance that my Hyper 212 EVO isn't enough? Because I think the highest temperature I saw today during stress testing was 62 degrees C, but that's for the socket.


Raising the NB voltage will begin to increase temps a little.. But, you're going to have to experiment with these things to see what your particular CPU wants to maintain stability. We can help you as much as we are able, but each and every CPU will require slightly different voltages to maintain the same results. So Joe Blo says he needs 1.37V to get to 4.2 Ghz might be what his CPU wanted. Yours might not need that much to reach the same speed, or it might need even more.

The major point of overclocking is to test *yourself* what your computers limits are. Not to see what others have gotten to and immediately think your system will do the exact same as theirs did.

The stock NB voltage should be plenty for the clock you are trying to achieve. So I wouldnt bother messing with it, and just set it out of your mind for now. Focus on what is right in front of you. At your current clock, with your current voltage, is your system stable under IBT(10 runs of Standard), do you still experience throttling. If you are not stable, bump your voltage a notch or two. If your system still throttles, Look HERE for a few tips to try and resolve it. Like ComputerRestore said earlier, Windows 8 was supposed to have those core parking fixes implemented already, so unless it is a bug with your BIOS, there may be a setting somewhere that has been overlooked.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Raising the NB voltage will begin to increase temps a little.. But, you're going to have to experiment with these things to see what your particular CPU wants to maintain stability. We can help you as much as we are able, but each and every CPU will require slightly different voltages to maintain the same results. So Joe Blo says he needs 1.37V to get to 4.2 Ghz might be what his CPU wanted. Yours might not need that much to reach the same speed, or it might need even more.
> 
> The major point of overclocking is to test *yourself* what your computers limits are. Not to see what others have gotten to and immediately think your system will do the exact same as theirs did.
> 
> The stock NB voltage should be plenty for the clock you are trying to achieve. So I wouldnt bother messing with it, and just set it out of your mind for now. Focus on what is right in front of you. At your current clock, with your current voltage, is your system stable under IBT(10 runs of Standard), do you still experience throttling. If you are not stable, bump your voltage a notch or two. If your system still throttles, Look HERE for a few tips to try and resolve it. Like ComputerRestore said earlier, Windows 8 was supposed to have those core parking fixes implemented already, so unless it is a bug with your BIOS, there may be a setting somewhere that has been overlooked.


Well, my system was stable for ten runs of IBT on standard, but it failed the 20th run. I don't think my cores are parked under load because Speedfan says 100% of my CPU is being used across all cores during stress testing. Man, if its a bug with the bios like you suggested I don't know what to do.

I thought setting Windows to high performance mode was just for laptops. Would setting it to high performance mode for me make it look like the Windows 2000 layout?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Well, my system was stable for ten runs of IBT on standard, but it failed the 20th run. I don't think my cores are parked under load because Speedfan says 100% of my CPU is being used across all cores during stress testing. Man, if its a bug with the bios like you suggested I don't know what to do.
> 
> I thought setting Windows to high performance mode was just for laptops. Would setting it to high performance mode for me make it look like the Windows 2000 layout?


It's the most useful for laptops, but there are settings that are in there for both desktops and laptops. Mainly the one listed as "processor power management". And no, it will not set the theme to Windows 2000. If it does, for some reason, you can change it back easily.

Speedfan wont show you if your cores are parking, Open CPU-Z and watch the Clocks section as you're testing. If core parking is still being activated for whatever reason, you will see your clock drop tremendously.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> It's the most useful for laptops, but there are settings that are in there for both desktops and laptops. Mainly the one listed as "processor power management". And no, it will not set the theme to Windows 2000. If it does, for some reason, you can change it back easily.
> 
> Speedfan wont show you if your cores are parking, Open CPU-Z and watch the Clocks section as you're testing. If core parking is still being activated for whatever reason, you will see your clock drop tremendously.


Huh, well I had CPU-Z open and my clockspeed was dropping also, but it wasn't dropping when I had LLC enabled and the voltage set to 1.35, it still showed up as instable, so maybe I have to bump up the north bridge up a notch?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Huh, well I had CPU-Z open and my clockspeed was dropping also, but it wasn't dropping when I had LLC enabled and the voltage set to 1.35, it still showed up as instable, so maybe I have to bump up the north bridge up a notch?


I would try bumping up the CPU voltage first. Thats more often than not, the cause of instability if the NB has not been altered.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I would try bumping up the CPU voltage first. Thats more often than not, the cause of instability if the NB has not been altered.


Alright I'll try that when I have more time, hopefully my CPU doesn't get too hot, 62 degrees for the socket is good though right? Because if the core tmep is 7 degrees less than the socket temp, it should be good. I'm just afraid my motherboard will burn out because its a 4+1 phase board.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Alright I'll try that when I have more time, hopefully my CPU doesn't get too hot, 62 degrees for the socket is good though right? Because if the core tmep is 7 degrees less than the socket temp, it should be good. I'm just afraid my motherboard will burn out because its a 4+1 phase board.


Look at your actual temps when stressing. dont just assume that if your socket temp is 62 that your cpu temp will be 7C below that. HWMonitor, HWInfo, CoreTemp all will give you "fairly" accurate temps readings. And they may differ.
You will be able to overclock your board to 4.1-4.2Ghz on that board. Just because it has 4+1 phase doesnt mean it WILL blow up when an 8+2 phase board wont. It just means the limits that board can handle may be less than a stronger phase board.
Like we've said, it just takes time, patience and trial and error to find the sweet spot for your CPU

I know it is possible to overclock on a 4+1 phase board cause I had an ASRock 970 Extreme4 with an AMD Propus 620 Overclocked from 2.6Ghz to 3.2Ghz with a Hyper 212+.Never had any issues with the board being under powered or inadequate.


----------



## aas88keyz

I am sorry. I have been following this thread for a long while and the OP answered a lot of my questions about ASUS motherboard overclocking stability. Because of the advice I was able to get my FX-8120 to 4.5GHz everyday stable without the overheating I had before. Any I don't mean to speak out of turn but this thread is going around in circles. The questions are the same and the answers never change. Now this isn't my thread but I appreciate the teachings it has from those that have experience but I must advise that before any questions need to be asked then everything must be tried from the original post first and then if there is no success after everything has been tried then we can ask advice. If there is something that comes up that is not on the original post I have witnessed the updates made from the original poster to the first posts so when we access this thread we can find what we need in the first post instead of repeating the same mistakes. The more times we repeat the same issue the longer the thread will become and the harder to search for what we are looking for inparticular. I promise that it is not very often that I state opinions in this forum but I thought it was important this time and I won't say anymore. Thanks for listening


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> I am sorry. I have been following this thread for a long while and the OP answered a lot of my questions about ASUS motherboard overclocking stability. Because of the advice I was able to get my FX-8120 to 4.5GHz everyday stable without the overheating I had before. Any I don't mean to speak out of turn but this thread is going around in circles. The questions are the same and the answers never change. Now this isn't my thread but I appreciate the teachings it has from those that have experience but I must advise that before any questions need to be asked then everything must be tried from the original post first and then if there is no success after everything has been tried then we can ask advice. If there is something that comes up that is not on the original post I have witnessed the updates made from the original poster to the first posts so when we access this thread we can find what we need in the first post instead of repeating the same mistakes. The more times we repeat the same issue the longer the thread will become and the harder to search for what we are looking for inparticular. I promise that it is not very often that I state opinions in this forum but I thought it was important this time and I won't say anymore. Thanks for listening


While I agree that a lot, if not all, of these questions can be answered in the main guide, some people understand things more clearly if someone is there to walk them through it. Not everyone is capable of just reading a guide and completely understanding what will then be required for them to do.

And having a thread open for people with questions to ask them, is from what I've learned so far, what this forum tries to be about. Telling someone to read the guide but dont ask questions cause it makes finding specifics harder, defeats the purpose of being a helpful group. Making a thread larger with more information, regardless of how much is repeated, just allows for different questions and answers to be explained in multiple ways, so that someone who got one answer but didnt understand it, might be able to understand it once explained in a different way..

Now, I'm not telling you what to do, and i am only speaking for myself, and voicing my own opinion as well, but I would prefer that anybody with questions to ask them freely until they understand what is being told them, or they close the topic.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Look at your actual temps when stressing. dont just assume that if your socket temp is 62 that your cpu temp will be 7C below that. HWMonitor, HWInfo, CoreTemp all will give you "fairly" accurate temps readings. And they may differ.
> You will be able to overclock your board to 4.1-4.2Ghz on that board. Just because it has 4+1 phase doesnt mean it WILL blow up when an 8+2 phase board wont. It just means the limits that board can handle may be less than a stronger phase board.
> Like we've said, it just takes time, patience and trial and error to find the sweet spot for your CPU
> 
> I know it is possible to overclock on a 4+1 phase board cause I had an ASRock 970 Extreme4 with an AMD Propus 620 Overclocked from 2.6Ghz to 3.2Ghz with a Hyper 212+.Never had any issues with the board being under powered or inadequate.


So I'm on an ASRock 970 Extreme3, what difference is there between the Extreme3 and Extreme4? Yeah I'll try upping the voltage one more notch, then another and I'll test both with LLC disabled, enabled, and auto. Hopefully I can narrow down the issues that way. So if my core temp is around 46 degrees C in HW and my socket temp is 62 degrees C then the core temp is fairly accurate on HWMonitor right? Because 46 degrees seems low when my socket temp is 62. I think it should be fine because the max temp for the socket is 72 degrees C.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So I'm on an ASRock 970 Extreme3, what difference is there between the Extreme3 and Extreme4? Yeah I'll try upping the voltage one more notch, then another and I'll test both with LLC disabled, enabled, and auto. Hopefully I can narrow down the issues that way. So if my core temp is around 46 degrees C in HW and my socket temp is 62 degrees C then the core temp is fairly accurate on HWMonitor right? Because 46 degrees seems low when my socket temp is 62. I think it should be fine because the max temp for the socket is 72 degrees C.


I use core temps to check my cpu when stress testing, HWMonitor is fairly accurate too, the difference between the core and socket temps can vary from those averages, EACH CPU/BOARD will give different results, MY BOARD AND CPU COULD BE IDENTICAL TO ANOTHER MEMBERS BUT I MAY NEED MORE VOLTAGE TO REACH THE SAME CLOCK SPEED.

start from scratch, follow the recommended settings on the first page of this guide....

Set the LLC to Auto if that was the least problematic, also check you have the latest BIOS for your board and follow the advice, if you reach 1.5v and your still not stable at 4.1Ghz, then there is an underlying issue, either with your settings or with your hardware

I don't mean to sound funny but you keep going over the same questions and not getting any closer to stable at the STOCK TURBO speed for the FX6300

LEAVE IBT out of the testing, your testing an AMD chip, run prime95 as advised, then when stable for the 10 mins as advised, run blended for at least 2 hours, if that is still stable, try folding and if you have no issues with the folding or with prime95 for at least 2 hours then your cpu is stable

I am 36 hours prime stable yet OCCT screaches and fails after less than 5 minutes, I have no issues gaming, browsing or folding yet OCCT wont pass under any settings


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So I'm on an ASRock 970 Extreme3, what difference is there between the Extreme3 and Extreme4? Yeah I'll try upping the voltage one more notch, then another and I'll test both with LLC disabled, enabled, and auto. Hopefully I can narrow down the issues that way. So if my core temp is around 46 degrees C in HW and my socket temp is 62 degrees C then the core temp is fairly accurate on HWMonitor right? Because 46 degrees seems low when my socket temp is 62. I think it should be fine because the max temp for the socket is 72 degrees C.


The socket temp, if it has no airflow directly on it, can be that much higher. And yes, i say fairly accurate, and that is meant to be taken with a grain of salt, as we discussed earlier than sensors on these boards can be a bit dull and inaccurate.

There arent much differences between the 2, i think just an extra Pci-e x16 slot mainly. Maybe another onboard USB connector as well? Other than that, everything is the same between the two as far as BIOS i would imagine.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> I am sorry. I have been following this thread for a long while and the OP answered a lot of my questions about ASUS motherboard overclocking stability. Because of the advice I was able to get my FX-8120 to 4.5GHz everyday stable without the overheating I had before. Any I don't mean to speak out of turn but this thread is going around in circles. The questions are the same and the answers never change. Now this isn't my thread but I appreciate the teachings it has from those that have experience but I must advise that before any questions need to be asked then everything must be tried from the original post first and then if there is no success after everything has been tried then we can ask advice. If there is something that comes up that is not on the original post I have witnessed the updates made from the original poster to the first posts so when we access this thread we can find what we need in the first post instead of repeating the same mistakes. The more times we repeat the same issue the longer the thread will become and the harder to search for what we are looking for inparticular. I promise that it is not very often that I state opinions in this forum but I thought it was important this time and I won't say anymore. Thanks for listening


Thanks Aas88keyz.

I haven't had much time to spend on these forums myself, and was suprised to see ~80+ new posts on my thread.
I don't mind helping but I am going to recommend to CannedBullets, that it seems it might be in your best interest to start your own thread.
It's not that others here aren't willing to help, it's just that we aren't running ASRock, which would make it difficult to replicate your issues.
By starting your own thread, you have a better chance of help from not only others with the same hardware, but also someone may have already experience and fixed the same issues you are having.

Good luck with your OCing.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Thanks Aas88keyz.
> 
> I haven't had much time to spend on these forums myself, and was suprised to see ~80+ new posts on my thread.
> I don't mind helping but I am going to recommend to CannedBullets, that it seems it might be in your best interest to start your own thread.
> It's not that others here aren't willing to help, it's just that we aren't running ASRock, which would make it difficult to replicate your issues.
> By starting your own thread, you have a better chance of help from not only others with the same hardware, but also someone may have already experience and fixed the same issues you are having.
> 
> Good luck with your OCing.


Yeah I'll try raising my CPU voltage and all that later after I'm done with finals, if I can't get a stable overclock at 1.4-1.5 then something is definitely wrong and I doubt it would be the CPU/NB voltage even though the NB speed is stock and the voltage is stock. I'll start a new thread for that if I still get issues.


----------



## DeusXXX

Hi guys

I am trying to oc my fx8350 and i am hitting a brick wall.

My setup is as follows:
M5A99FX PRO R2.0
16GB (4X4GB) 1600mhz Kingston HyperX genesis 9-9-9-27-2T @1.65v
Nexus 1000watt psu
corsair h80i

CPU Auto voltage is 1.38v and turbo auto voltage 1.42v
CPU/NB Auto voltage is 1.2v

I have manually set the ram timings, the digi+ settings according to the guide,
cpu/nb freq(2200),ht link freq(2600), cpu and cpu/nb voltages and disabled c-states.

I have tried prime95 small fft tests up to 4.7ghz @1.5v with no problem.

My target frequency for the beginning is [email protected] with the ram @1600mhz.

HWmonitor reads 1.428min, 1.456max. Most of the time HWMon reads 1.44v
Cpu/nb voltages below 1.3v and above 1.35v are totally unstable with random freezes even when browsing.
Moving towards cpu/nb voltage of 1.3375v increased stability, but despite my high hopes of discovering an
island of stability @1.3375v (completed several hours of occt, IBT maximum setting 10 runs) after 7 hours
of prime95 custom test(12gb ram used) 1 core failed. Any increment above or below, of cpu/nbv and cpuv,
will also fail. Should i give up on trying to keep my ram @1600mhz?
Any suggestions from someone with 4 ram modules are higly appreciated.

I have also tried the alternative method with lowering the cpu/nb speed from 2200mhz to 1600mhz.
So far i have tried [email protected], 1600mhz ram, with random cpu/nb increment selection between 0.9v and 1.1v
and all failed. 1.1v was more stable than 0.9v

p.s. temps are always well within specs i.e. @1.45v 58c socket, 47c cores
thanks in advance for your help.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I am trying to oc my fx8350 and i am hitting a brick wall.
> 
> My setup is as follows:
> M5A99FX PRO R2.0
> 16GB (4X4GB) 1600mhz Kingston HyperX genesis 9-9-9-27-2T @1.65v
> Nexus 1000watt psu
> corsair h80i
> 
> CPU Auto voltage is 1.38v and turbo auto voltage 1.42v
> CPU/NB Auto voltage is 1.2v
> 
> I have manually set the ram timings, the digi+ settings according to the guide,
> cpu/nb freq(2200),ht link freq(2600), cpu and cpu/nb voltages and disabled c-states.
> 
> I have tried prime95 small fft tests up to 4.7ghz @1.5v with no problem.
> 
> My target frequency for the beginning is [email protected] with the ram @1600mhz.
> 
> HWmonitor reads 1.428min, 1.456max. Most of the time HWMon reads 1.44v
> Cpu/nb voltages below 1.3v and above 1.35v are totally unstable with random freezes even when browsing.
> Moving towards cpu/nb voltage of 1.3375v increased stability, but despite my high hopes of discovering an
> island of stability @1.3375v (completed several hours of occt, IBT maximum setting 10 runs) after 7 hours
> of prime95 custom test(12gb ram used) 1 core failed. Any increment above or below, of cpu/nbv and cpuv,
> will also fail. Should i give up on trying to keep my ram @1600mhz?
> Any suggestions from someone with 4 ram modules are higly appreciated.
> 
> I have also tried the alternative method with lowering the cpu/nb speed from 2200mhz to 1600mhz.
> So far i have tried [email protected], 1600mhz ram, with random cpu/nb increment selection between 0.9v and 1.1v
> and all failed. 1.1v was more stable than 0.9v
> 
> p.s. temps are always well within specs i.e. @1.45v 58c socket, 47c cores
> thanks in advance for your help.


The problem in my opinion isnt your cpu, its more likely your 4 sticks of ram, try it with just 2 sticks just to be sure and see, maybe drop the ram but tighten the timings, the memory controller doesnt like 4 sticks as it puts strain on it, anyone knows a way round can put me straight but thats my experience so far


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> The problem in my opinion isnt your cpu, its more likely your 4 sticks of ram, try it with just 2 sticks just to be sure and see, maybe drop the ram but tighten the timings, the memory controller doesnt like 4 sticks as it puts strain on it, anyone knows a way round can put me straight but thats my experience so far


If I were to try this, removing 2 sticks out of 4. Say, I were to gain a higher overclock. Would I then have to leave those 2 sticks out of my rig from then on? Could I reinsert them afterwards with no adverse affects?

What happens?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> I am trying to oc my fx8350 and i am hitting a brick wall.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> My setup is as follows:
> M5A99FX PRO R2.0
> 16GB (4X4GB) 1600mhz Kingston HyperX genesis 9-9-9-27-2T @1.65v
> Nexus 1000watt psu
> corsair h80i
> 
> CPU Auto voltage is 1.38v and turbo auto voltage 1.42v
> CPU/NB Auto voltage is 1.2v
> 
> I have manually set the ram timings, the digi+ settings according to the guide,
> cpu/nb freq(2200),ht link freq(2600), cpu and cpu/nb voltages and disabled c-states.
> 
> I have tried prime95 small fft tests up to 4.7ghz @1.5v with no problem.
> 
> My target frequency for the beginning is [email protected] with the ram @1600mhz.
> 
> HWmonitor reads 1.428min, 1.456max. Most of the time HWMon reads 1.44v
> Cpu/nb voltages below 1.3v and above 1.35v are totally unstable with random freezes even when browsing.
> Moving towards cpu/nb voltage of 1.3375v increased stability, but despite my high hopes of discovering an
> island of stability @1.3375v (completed several hours of occt, IBT maximum setting 10 runs) after 7 hours
> of prime95 custom test(12gb ram used) 1 core failed. Any increment above or below, of cpu/nbv and cpuv,
> will also fail. Should i give up on trying to keep my ram @1600mhz?
> Any suggestions from someone with 4 ram modules are higly appreciated.
> 
> I have also tried the alternative method with lowering the cpu/nb speed from 2200mhz to 1600mhz.
> So far i have tried [email protected], 1600mhz ram, with random cpu/nb increment selection between 0.9v and 1.1v
> and all failed. 1.1v was more stable than 0.9v
> 
> p.s. temps are always well within specs i.e. @1.45v 58c socket, 47c cores
> thanks in advance for your help.


I would say that it's pretty stable from the sounds of it. If just one core failed on Prime after 7 hours, it could have been just a slight hiccup in the power control. 4.7-4.8Ghz is about the limit of the 6+2 Power Phase from what I've seen. A few members on the Piledriver owners club swapped to the Sabertooth after not breaking 4.8Ghz, and now they're at 5.0Ghz using water cooling.

Great Overclock


----------



## DeusXXX

I set the ram at D.O.C.P.
Settings are:

1600mhz, 9-9-9-24-2T @ 1.5v

Same settings for cpu and cpu/nb.

Despite having no hopes at all, since 24 is much tighter than 27 i previously used
and 1.5v is way low, i left it overnight to run prime95.

So far its 7 hour stable and going.
Leaving for work now and gonna check it when i come back.


----------



## DeusXXX

I quit prime95 at 19 hours, stable.

The only logical explanation i can think of, is that due to the reduced ram voltage
the imc suffered less and thus became stable.

You might want to add to your guide, especially if you confirm it with others using
4 ram modules, that D.O.C.P. ram settings is the way to go for this kind of setup.

I am going to try lowering the cpu/nb voltage and see if this works now.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> I quit prime95 at 19 hours, stable.
> 
> The only logical explanation i can think of, is that due to the reduced ram voltage
> the imc suffered less and thus became stable.
> 
> You might want to add to your guide, especially if you confirm it with others using
> 4 ram modules, that D.O.C.P. ram settings is the way to go for this kind of setup.
> 
> I am going to try lowering the cpu/nb voltage and see if this works now.


If you could verify what this does outside of automatically setting the DRAM Profile based on DRAM frequency, I will definately add it to the guide.
I've seen this mentioned on other motherboard forums (not in a guide) such as Gigabyte.

As far as I know it's the same as setting your stock settings for your Ram, (correct me if I'm wrong).

I will definately list it as an option seeing as it's assisted in your Prime Stability, but I would also like to list the reason that it works.

If you manually set it to what D.O.C.P. set, will it retain it's stability
- verify if due to lower DRAM Voltage it assists in stability

Thanks very much if you could offer any insight to this, as I no longer have either of my Bulldozer/Piledriver setups for testing.

Something interesting is that I didn't have any Prime issues outside of needing extra cpu voltage. (on my 2nd Piledriver CPU as the first was defective). But I also run low voltage Samsung Green Ram @ 1.3v and never higher than 1.475v


----------



## DeusXXX

Before someone reads below i need to make a statement that i am no expert
and that the info i have gathered is from various posts and some friends advice.

D.O.C.P is an ''overclocking'' feature provided only in asus m/bs.
It is similar to xmp profiles for intel platforms, but it also supports
ram without xmp, like mine for example. It tries to identify an
''overclocking profile'' for ram, given that any speed above 1333mhz
is considered as such.
From what i have gathered, it performs a quick compatibility check and
assigns ram values.
The info i have so far is that it is conservative but rather stable.
In fact in an intel platform paired with xmp ram it will load the exact
same settings as using xmp profiles.

In my case it autodetected 1600mhz ram speed and 9-9-9-24-2T timings.
Also it reverted the ram voltage from 1.65v to Auto (1.48v bios reading, 1.5v cpu-z reading).
The strange thing is that my ram is advertized as 1600 9-9-9-27-2T.

Manually setting what d.o.c.p picked changes nothing.

*note*
I read somewhere in this forum that my ram can operate at the advertized timings
and speed @1.5v and 1.65v is not needed.

As far as the imc is conserned i had only a few hours to check (so no prime95)
but so far it seems that i can achieve higher cpu clock @stock cpu/nb voltage
with only 2 ram modules.

As a conclusion one thing seems certain. Either from d.o.c.p magical abilities or
by my ram's ability to run @1.5v, less power came through the imc.
I have come to believe that, its not the frequency that matters when populating
all memory banks, but the fact that too much power is passing through the imc.

Most people using 4 ram nodules reduce their ram speed or cpu/nb speed
to have acceptable cpu/nb voltage whereas reducing ram voltage (when possible ofcourse)
could give better yields/stability.


----------



## aas88keyz

Looks like my newest upgrade was the right choice to compliment the success of this guide for me. I have been folding stable with my fx-8120 @ 4.5GHz at 59*C core since the first time I followed this guide. Which was ok but I was uncomfortable with being so close to the max @ 61*C core. and 4.5GHz is a nice round number is all I ever wanted and needed. I wasn't sure what my next upgrade would be but I decided I would center on cooling. Whether fans or coolers I decided to upgrade my H80 with a H100 on clearance for $65 (no open box). I was optimistic about the results I would get. I added my H80 fans to push/pull. Anyway without going too far out of topic I can just say this guide and H100 made a huge improvement. I still do not want to go higher in frequency so I stuck with resolving temps for 4.5GHz. With H100 at *medium speed* I am now folding at 51*C load compared to H80 at 59*C load I was at before. Huge margin for overclocking further if I like (especially since I am only on H100's medium setting) but I am satisfied enough with the better temps that this guide got me to

Keep on foldin'!







.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> Before someone reads below i need to make a statement that i am no expert
> and that the info i have gathered is from various posts and some friends advice.
> 
> D.O.C.P is an ''overclocking'' feature provided only in asus m/bs.
> It is similar to xmp profiles for intel platforms, but it also supports
> ram without xmp, like mine for example. It tries to identify an
> ''overclocking profile'' for ram, given that any speed above 1333mhz
> is considered as such.
> From what i have gathered, it performs a quick compatibility check and
> assigns ram values.
> The info i have so far is that it is conservative but rather stable.
> In fact in an intel platform paired with xmp ram it will load the exact
> same settings as using xmp profiles.
> 
> In my case it autodetected 1600mhz ram speed and 9-9-9-24-2T timings.
> Also it reverted the ram voltage from 1.65v to Auto (1.48v bios reading, 1.5v cpu-z reading).
> The strange thing is that my ram is advertized as 1600 9-9-9-27-2T.
> 
> Manually setting what d.o.c.p picked changes nothing.
> 
> *note*
> I read somewhere in this forum that my ram can operate at the advertized timings
> and speed @1.5v and 1.65v is not needed.
> 
> As far as the imc is conserned i had only a few hours to check (so no prime95)
> but so far it seems that i can achieve higher cpu clock @stock cpu/nb voltage
> with only 2 ram modules.
> 
> As a conclusion one thing seems certain. Either from d.o.c.p magical abilities or
> by my ram's ability to run @1.5v, less power came through the imc.
> I have come to believe that, its not the frequency that matters when populating
> all memory banks, but the fact that too much power is passing through the imc.
> 
> Most people using 4 ram nodules reduce their ram speed or cpu/nb speed
> to have acceptable cpu/nb voltage whereas reducing ram voltage (when possible ofcourse)
> could give better yields/stability.


Sort of how i inderstand it, i didnt think to check you had manually set your ram.... facepalm on my part, yeah the imc doesnt like the higher voltage so thus reducing it with the 4 banks still populated seems to have done the trick for you, glad you got it stable, just added some blue ccfl strips to my clear acrylic case, need to do some major cable management now


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> If you could verify what this does outside of automatically setting the DRAM Profile based on DRAM frequency, I will definately add it to the guide.
> I've seen this mentioned on other motherboard forums (not in a guide) such as Gigabyte.
> 
> As far as I know it's the same as setting your stock settings for your Ram, (correct me if I'm wrong).
> 
> I will definately list it as an option seeing as it's assisted in your Prime Stability, but I would also like to list the reason that it works.
> 
> If you manually set it to what D.O.C.P. set, will it retain it's stability
> - verify if due to lower DRAM Voltage it assists in stability
> 
> Thanks very much if you could offer any insight to this, as I no longer have either of my Bulldozer/Piledriver setups for testing.
> 
> Something interesting is that I didn't have any Prime issues outside of needing extra cpu voltage. (on my 2nd Piledriver CPU as the first was defective). But I also run low voltage Samsung Green Ram @ 1.3v and never higher than 1.475v


I had to set my ram to its rated speeds and timings manually using d.o.c.p. when i first started or my g.skills ripjaws were running at 1333mhz, think its something bout amd and xmp, samsung low profile ram is fantastic for oc'ing


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> Before someone reads below i need to make a statement that i am no expert
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> and that the info i have gathered is from various posts and some friends advice.
> 
> D.O.C.P is an ''overclocking'' feature provided only in asus m/bs.
> It is similar to xmp profiles for intel platforms, but it also supports
> ram without xmp, like mine for example. It tries to identify an
> ''overclocking profile'' for ram, given that any speed above 1333mhz
> is considered as such.
> From what i have gathered, it performs a quick compatibility check and
> assigns ram values.
> The info i have so far is that it is conservative but rather stable.
> In fact in an intel platform paired with xmp ram it will load the exact
> same settings as using xmp profiles.
> 
> In my case it autodetected 1600mhz ram speed and 9-9-9-24-2T timings.
> Also it reverted the ram voltage from 1.65v to Auto (1.48v bios reading, 1.5v cpu-z reading).
> The strange thing is that my ram is advertized as 1600 9-9-9-27-2T.
> 
> Manually setting what d.o.c.p picked changes nothing.
> 
> *note*
> I read somewhere in this forum that my ram can operate at the advertized timings
> and speed @1.5v and 1.65v is not needed.
> 
> As far as the imc is conserned i had only a few hours to check (so no prime95)
> but so far it seems that i can achieve higher cpu clock @stock cpu/nb voltage
> with only 2 ram modules.
> 
> As a conclusion one thing seems certain. Either from d.o.c.p magical abilities or
> by my ram's ability to run @1.5v, less power came through the imc.
> I have come to believe that, its not the frequency that matters when populating
> all memory banks, but the fact that too much power is passing through the imc.
> 
> Most people using 4 ram nodules reduce their ram speed or cpu/nb speed
> to have acceptable cpu/nb voltage whereas reducing ram voltage (when possible ofcourse)
> could give better yields/stability.


Thanks for the info +1.

I will update the guide to reflect the benefits of using lower voltage for the Ram modules.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Thanks for the info +1.
> 
> I will update the guide to reflect the benefits of using lower voltage for the Ram modules.


Also, not sure it's helpful on this particular subject, but on my Kingston HyperX RAM, it says that the voltage needs to be set to 1.65V in order to run its 9-9-9-24 timings at 1600Mhz. I was able to back the voltage down to 1.5 and everything is working exactly the same. No hiccups or anything recorded after a few runs of High and Very High from IBT.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Also, not sure it's helpful on this particular subject, but on my Kingston HyperX RAM, it says that the voltage needs to be set to 1.65V in order to run its 9-9-9-24 timings at 1600Mhz. I was able to back the voltage down to 1.5 and everything is working exactly the same. No hiccups or anything recorded after a few runs of High and Very High from IBT.


Interesting. I wonder if that would help you push for a higher stable clock too, since the extra CPU voltage wasn't doing anything for it.

There's some people on other threads that complain that Prime95 will fail even at their stock settings so it's not a good stress tool. I will pay more attention to their Rig info to see if there is a connection between 4x DIMMS @ 1.65v, which maybe even at a stock CPU frequency is causing issues for the IMC.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Interesting. I wonder if that would help you push for a higher stable clock too, since the extra CPU voltage wasn't doing anything for it.
> 
> There's some people on other threads that complain that Prime95 will fail even at their stock settings so it's not a good stress tool. I will pay more attention to their Rig info to see if there is a connection between 4x DIMMS @ 1.65v, which maybe even at a stock CPU frequency is causing issues for the IMC.


I will definitely be testing this theory in the morning. Cant find a save spot in Metro:Last Light just yet haha.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I will definitely be testing this theory in the morning. Cant find a save spot in Metro:Last Light just yet haha.


So I have tested it... Results??


STABLE!!

Just a quick run. I had to bump my voltage up to 1.4V (1.392V in CPU-Z)
My NB temp got a little over the threshold, but it held at 74C, and I was not worried that it was dangerously high.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> So I have tested it... Results??
> 
> 
> STABLE!!
> 
> Just a quick run. I had to bump my voltage up to 1.4V (1.392V in CPU-Z)
> My NB temp got a little over the threshold, but it held at 74C, and I was not worried that it was dangerously high.


Wow nice. That's really impressive. Good scores on IBT, which usually indicates that it's very stable. So it's very possible that yours just didn't like the high DRAM voltage either.

Too bad you are at the limit of your cooling, cause I'm very curious how much further your CPU would go. Being that most these M5A99FX boards seem to top out at 4.7-4.8Ghz Max, it wouldn't be a good idea to drop $$$ on WCing either though


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Wow nice. That's really impressive. Good scores on IBT, which usually indicates that it's very stable. So it's very possible that yours just didn't like the high DRAM voltage either.
> 
> Too bad you are at the limit of your cooling, cause I'm very curious how much further your CPU would go. Being that most these M5A99FX boards seem to top out at 4.7-4.8Ghz Max, it wouldn't be a good idea to drop $$$ on WCing either though


I agree, spending anymore money on cooling now wouldn't serve my pockets very well. Especially since this rig has become my test bench of sorts with modding.

I'm not going to attempt to push my clock further, even though I'm confident that my board can handle the increased NB temps. I am happy with my new stable clock, and don't see any way to lower my temps with more voltage tweaks.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I agree, spending anymore money on cooling now wouldn't serve my pockets very well. Especially since this rig has become my test bench of sorts with modding.
> 
> I'm not going to attempt to push my clock further, even though I'm confident that my board can handle the increased NB temps. I am happy with my new stable clock, and don't see any way to lower my temps with more voltage tweaks.


You must be referring to the CPU socket as NB temps. That will lower if you could get the Package temp lower as it's within the 10-15C of the Package temp under load. So if you got the package to 50, then the Socket could drop to ~64C.

Probably the only thing you could do is play with the fans in your case to try and lower temps. If I remember correct you already re-seated the water block to make sure it was good. So really that just leaves airflow as the issue. H100 should be getting you closer to 4.8Ghz. But meh









Stock Corsair Fans as Intake on the Rad - Setup as pull
All other fans setup as exhaust
Should be moving a ton of heat


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> You must be referring to the CPU socket as NB temps. That will lower if you could get the Package temp lower as it's within the 10-15C of the Package temp under load. So if you got the package to 50, then the Socket could drop to ~64C.
> 
> Probably the only thing you could do is play with the fans in your case to try and lower temps. If I remember correct you already re-seated the water block to make sure it was good. So really that just leaves airflow as the issue. H100 should be getting you closer to 4.8Ghz. But meh
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stock Corsair Fans as Intake on the Rad - Setup as pull
> All other fans setup as exhaust
> Should be moving a ton of heat


True, I've seen alot of other systems with the H80's and H100's getting closer to 4.8Ghz.
And yes, I I've been calling the Socket Temp NB temp. For some reason I just have that stuck in my head.

I'll try to play with the fans to see if anything makes a noticeable difference in temps. With it getting so hot here though, I doubt I will be able to get much better than what I have currently. Arkansas's Spring/Summer is nothing to play with. haha.

Other than lowering the clock, I dont see any way to get my Package down to 50 under a full stress. I just dont see it happening. I was hitting higher than that with stock settings.


----------



## Destrto

I also have not had my question answered. A number of people have suggested using only 2 RAM sticks to test with. Once I do test, am I supposed to continue to leave just 2 installed from then on?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I also have not had my question answered. A number of people have suggested using only 2 RAM sticks to test with. Once I do test, am I supposed to continue to leave just 2 installed from then on?


You should test with however many sticks you are going to be using. No point getting it stable with two and finding out x4 is too much for IMC.

From what I've seen though, this architecture likes to have all four ram slots populated.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> You should test with however many sticks you are going to be using. No point getting it stable with two and finding out x4 is too much for IMC.
> 
> From what I've seen though, this architecture likes to have all four ram slots populated.


Makes sense. Thanks for all the info.


----------



## BillyBonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Okay, I had to go all the way up to 1.35. When I had LLC set to enabled, my CPU throttled to 1.4 ghz and 0.88v and would not go back up to 4.1 ghz and 1.33-35. When I had LLC enabled with the voltage set to 1.35 v it failed Intel Burn Test on the 20th test. So yeah, I'm back to stock and I don't think I'll try overclocking right now, maybe later, it could be the NB voltage, I don't know. If I need to upgrade my CPU I'll probably get a Steamroller 6-core CPU instead because right now overclocking is getting annoying.


I am catching up with my reading here at the forum, so if you fixed this already then never mind but if you have not... in Windows 8 you have different power settings. Control Panel->System and Security->Power Options. If you choose High Performance the OS will not let your processor into power saving mode. You will see that your processor stays at the desired stable OC. If you choose balanced then it will power save by down clocking your processor. Hope this helps


----------



## MrRenefo

I'm testing now on stock voltage I'm at 4.6 so i`m at the very edge for stock voltage but in Prime95 runs fine at 50-60% but kresjer immediately at 100% or freezes but in AIDA64 can it run for at least half an hour at 100% any idea why?

its a Fx 8350 on a crosshair v formula-z


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrRenefo*
> 
> I'm testing now on stock voltage I'm at 4.6 so i`m at the very edge for stock voltage but in Prime95 runs fine at 50-60% but kresjer immediately at 100% or freezes but in AIDA64 can it run for at least half an hour at 100% any idea why?
> 
> its a Fx 8350 on a crosshair v formula-z


We've noticed with some software, clocks will show stable in one, but not the other, and vice-versa. Prime95 crashes my system even at stock settings, and IBT has been the only software to accurately report a stable clock for me. Others have reported the opposite.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrRenefo*
> 
> I'm testing now on stock voltage I'm at 4.6 so i`m at the very edge for stock voltage but in Prime95 runs fine at 50-60% but kresjer immediately at 100% or freezes but in AIDA64 can it run for at least half an hour at 100% any idea why?
> 
> its a Fx 8350 on a crosshair v formula-z


It seems that anything that uses AVX requires more voltage to keep stability. That would be my guess as to what's happening.


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah I'm going to try overclocking again sometime this week or next week. I'll try manually setting the RAM voltage to 1.5, windows in high performance mode, and LLC on auto this time.


----------



## Destrto

Quick question about re enabling the power saving features after I've finished tweaking my overclock. Arent I supposed to see the clock throttle down under idle after turning all of these settings back on?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quick question about re enabling the power saving features after I've finished tweaking my overclock. Arent I supposed to see the clock throttle down under idle after turning all of these settings back on?


The down clock feature doesn't seem to work unless you are using the Offset Voltage setting.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> The down clock feature doesn't seem to work unless you are using the Offset Voltage setting.


Ahh OK. Well I went back and turned them off, since I started experiencing anomolies with random freezes.


----------



## MrRenefo

when you overclock the CPU is there any advantage to give the Ram a little extra voltage?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrRenefo*
> 
> when you overclock the CPU is there any advantage to give the Ram a little extra voltage?


Increasing the voltage on the ram increases the strain on the IMC, so it can actually be a bad thing when overclocking.
It's recommended to find out your max CPU OC with the ram at a low setting for this reason.


----------



## aas88keyz

you don't fail to surprise me with new advice. I had no idea (though I should have) that the dimm volts effected to IMC and over all overclock. I had already lowered voltage for both but I don't think it is enough. So going have to start on a fresh oc tomorrow maybe after I mod my case for push/pull h100 and see better cooling hopefully. Still want to hold at 4.5GHz and will be working on cooler and stable instead of pushing for faster.

... and again +rep
( I only give those to difference changers







)


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> you don't fail to surprise me with new advice. I had no idea (though I should have) that the dimm volts effected to IMC and over all overclock. I had already lowered voltage for both but I don't think it is enough. So going have to start on a fresh oc tomorrow maybe after I mod my case for push/pull h100 and see better cooling hopefully. Still want to hold at 4.5GHz and will be working on cooler and stable instead of pushing for faster.
> 
> ... and again +rep
> ( I only give those to difference changers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


He he, I can't take all the credit. My guide is updated and linked to a certain members post in regards to this.
Seeing as not all cores can reach the same frequency, it makes sense that the IMC may struggle when the CPU is pushed.
I'm fairly new to overclocking as well, so it's nice to learn from others experiences.


----------



## Qbiz4man

Great guide - Although I have been OCing CPUs since the original x486 days, I learned quite a bit about the new processoer and platform.

A couple of quick questions, but first my pertinent specs: *6300 on SaberT FX990 R2.0* 2.0 -

my goal - simple overclock to replicate 6350 perf (3.9 with 4.2 boost),

I have followed guide suggestions, read pretty much all posts

As you may have guessed, with all power saving off, easly hit 3.9 on stock volts (1.375) volt solid as rock.

To get my CPU power savings working I will be enabling Cool n Quiet option, C1E and APM Master Mode (auto).

My questions:

Do I want c6 enabledin this secnario? If no - why not?

For this OC, should I keep CPU LLC to ultra high and CPU/NB LLC to high, or should I dial it back to cut thermals on VRM?

Current should still be set to 130%, or dial it back a bit to also save on thermals?

Whats best way to test turbo mode (4.2), just run prime with only 3 cores? Or?

Thanks in advance, this is a great guide and a cool forum.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbiz4man*
> 
> Great guide - Although I have been OCing CPUs since the original x486 days, I learned quite a bit about the new processoer and platform.
> 
> A couple of quick questions, but first my pertinent specs: *6300 on SaberT FX990 R2.0* 2.0 -
> 
> my goal - simple overclock to replicate 6350 perf (3.9 with 4.2 boost),
> 
> I have followed guide suggestions, read pretty much all posts
> 
> As you may have guessed, with all power saving off, easly hit 3.9 on stock volts (1.375) volt solid as rock.
> 
> To get my CPU power savings working I will be enabling Cool n Quiet option, C1E and APM Master Mode (auto).
> 
> My questions:
> 
> Do I want c6 enabledin this secnario? If no - why not?
> 
> For this OC, should I keep CPU LLC to ultra high and CPU/NB LLC to high, or should I dial it back to cut thermals on VRM?
> 
> Current should still be set to 130%, or dial it back a bit to also save on thermals?
> 
> Whats best way to test turbo mode (4.2), just run prime with only 3 cores? Or?
> 
> Thanks in advance, this is a great guide and a cool forum.


You will want to run C6. It will allow the cores to be completely shut down when idle.
For that Overclock you could reduce the LLC to Medium or High to reduce VRM thermals, as stability shouldn't be an issue with loading. You may just need to up the CPU voltage a few notches.

I'm not sure if you could actually set the same specs as the 6350 as far as a turbo profile goes. (Unless you use the AOD Software)
4.2Ghz will be the secondary Turbo profile (3 cores loaded) Which you can't set in the BIOS. You can only set the primary turbo (6 Cores).
You are correct though that to test it, you would need to set the affinity to whatever stress test you use, to only use 3 of 6 cores.
This isn't something I've played with, so I would be intested to know, that if you set the primary turbo profile, if the secondary profile is automatically increased.


----------



## Qbiz4man

Thanks for the quick reply.

Since you did not comment on setting the current to an amount below 130%, I'll assume I should leave it there.

Your turbo comment surprised me. I could have sworn that when I was running stock but started to tweak the turbo ratio, that it was the second setting (4.1 of the 3.5 - 3.8 -4.1 frequencies that I observed at at stock settings) that was adjusting. (of course its not just computer memory that fails with age







)

Regardless, that brings up a question as to how whichever turbo mode that is not settable is determined, and how it is impacted by changing either the base CPU ratio or the turbo ratio?

Anyone have further thoughts on this?

Thanks again for your help!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbiz4man*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply.
> 
> Since you did not comment on setting the current to an amount below 130%, I'll assume I should leave it there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Your turbo comment surprised me. I could have sworn that when I was running stock but started to tweak the turbo ratio, that it was the second setting (4.1 of the 3.5 - 3.8 -4.1 frequencies that I observed at at stock settings) that was adjusting. (of course its not just computer memory that fails with age
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Regardless, that brings up a question as to how whichever turbo mode that is not settable is determined, and how it is impacted by changing either the base CPU ratio or the turbo ratio?
> 
> Anyone have further thoughts on this?
> 
> Thanks again for your help!


Oops. Yeah, you can just leave the Current setting at 130%. It only allows the CPU to access it if required, otherwise there's no difference. I'm not sure of the reason to have adjustments, as other motherboard manufacturers have full current as a stock setting, and offer no adjustments.

Turbo mode is very strange, and I didn't do a whole lot of testing. From what I could tell the CPU frequency didn't effect the Turbo frequency at all, which is why I just recommend to disable it for overclocking.

For example: (Using the FX 8350 - 4.0Ghz - T1 4.1Ghz - T2 4.2Ghz)
If you increase the CPU frequency above 4.1Ghz and leave Turbo enabled - then your CPU will run at 4.1Ghz under load - unless it's using only 4 or less cores and then it will run at 4.2Ghz

To simplify things and since you are only going for a small OC - I would recommend you use Offset Voltage mode, keep the power saving features enabled, and then just OC your CPU with Turbo Disabled.

That way it will downclock to 1.4Ghz when idle - and boost to your OC settings when you need it.


----------



## 033Y5

hi all
hoping someone can help me i noticed in hwinfo64 my 3vsb is @0.192v what should it be seems low


----------



## Destrto

Trying out those power saving settings within BIOS, C6 state, C1E, and coo and quiet, did not seem to make any difference for me. I remember you talked about it only working if i altered the offset voltage for the CPU, which I have done, but it still did not change anything within WIndows. Is there anything I'm missing?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Trying out those power saving settings within BIOS, C6 state, C1E, and coo and quiet, did not seem to make any difference for me. I remember you talked about it only working if i altered the offset voltage for the CPU, which I have done, but it still did not change anything within WIndows. Is there anything I'm missing?


As long as you are using "Offset Voltage Mode" instead of Manual Mode and you are at least running a Balanced Power Profile in Windows then the CPU should down clock at idle, as well as the voltage should drop.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> As long as you are using "Offset Voltage Mode" instead of Manual Mode and you are at least running a Balanced Power Profile in Windows then the CPU should down clock at idle, as well as the voltage should drop.


That may be what I overlooked. I'm still running High Performance profile within Windows.


----------



## Qbiz4man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Oops. Yeah, you can just leave the Current setting at 130%. It only allows the CPU to access it if required, otherwise there's no difference. I'm not sure of the reason to have adjustments, as other motherboard manufacturers have full current as a stock setting, and offer no adjustments.
> 
> Turbo mode is very strange, and I didn't do a whole lot of testing. From what I could tell the CPU frequency didn't effect the Turbo frequency at all, which is why I just recommend to disable it for overclocking.
> 
> For example: (Using the FX 8350 - 4.0Ghz - T1 4.1Ghz - T2 4.2Ghz)
> If you increase the CPU frequency above 4.1Ghz and leave Turbo enabled - then your CPU will run at 4.1Ghz under load - unless it's using only 4 or less cores and then it will run at 4.2Ghz
> 
> To simplify things and since you are only going for a small OC - I would recommend you use Offset Voltage mode, keep the power saving features enabled, and then just OC your CPU with Turbo Disabled.
> 
> That way it will downclock to 1.4Ghz when idle - and boost to your OC settings when you need it.


I see what you mean. But that makes me think a bit. The purpose for this particular overclock (besides the learning aspect) is to tune a machine for a bit more than stock performance for everyday use including gaming.

I am now running at what appears to be a stable 4.0 at 1.368v. ( at least based on multiple hours of various P95 and OCCT runs) It will down clock to 1.4 at .9v. *But I wonder if I have achieved my objective?*

With stock settings I had 3.5 with a boost to 3.8 on all cores and to 4.1 on 3 (or 4?). Under these settings I seemed to get intermediate states as well (i.e. 3000) .

Now I seem to get just two states 1.4 and 4.0. Given many games don't use all cores, am I actually set up to be slower for gaming than I was before?

If so then it suggests a few things:

1. I need to at least go to 4.1 base clock to ensure equal performance as stock settings in games (but at the apparent cost of some power savings (i.e the intermediate states)

2. Perhaps upping the turbo ratio may be a better way to go instead of upping vase ratio. If this results in T1 and T2 going higher, don't I get better real world performance from this?

3. I see the point of your FSB addition. Based on the way the turbo mode appears to work, it looks like the only way to get an increase across the board may be to up FSB (of course it may cause my memory to need to run at a lower speed). If I can get away with a 210 fsb without lowering memory speed, I should get 3675 with a T1 - T2 boost of 3990 - 4305

Interesting. What do you guys think?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbiz4man*
> 
> I see what you mean. But that makes me think a bit. The purpose for this particular overclock (besides the learning aspect) is to tune a machine for a bit more than stock performance for everyday use including gaming.
> 
> I am now running at what appears to be a stable 4.0 at 1.368v. ( at least based on multiple hours of various P95 and OCCT runs) It will down clock to 1.4 at .9v. *But I wonder if I have achieved my objective?*
> 
> With stock settings I had 3.5 with a boost to 3.8 on all cores and to 4.1 on 3 (or 4?). Under these settings I seemed to get intermediate states as well (i.e. 3000) .
> 
> Now I seem to get just two states 1.4 and 4.0. Given many games don't use all cores, am I actually set up to be slower for gaming than I was before?
> 
> If so then it suggests a few things:
> 
> 1. I need to at least go to 4.1 base clock to ensure equal performance as stock settings in games (but at the apparent cost of some power savings (i.e the intermediate states)
> 
> 2. Perhaps upping the turbo ratio may be a better way to go instead of upping vase ratio. If this results in T1 and T2 going higher, don't I get better real world performance from this?
> 
> 3. I see the point of your FSB addition. Based on the way the turbo mode appears to work, it looks like the only way to get an increase across the board may be to up FSB (of course it may cause my memory to need to run at a lower speed). If I can get away with a 210 fsb without lowering memory speed, I should get 3675 with a T1 - T2 boost of 3990 - 4305
> 
> Interesting. What do you guys think?


You bring up some very good points. If upping the Turbo ratio will increase the secondary ratio as well for the intermediate performance/power savings then that would be the best choice. I couldn't verify if that's how it worked on the little bit of testing I did with it (even setting the priority for a single program to 4 cores, would result in the OS or some other background program to use even 1% of a 5th core resulting in 0% T2 usage)

The FSB increase was the only way I could create a variable Turbo profile outside of using Software, without having to use Offset voltage mode, but still isn't ideal. - Memory tuning to suit desired turbo ratio etc.

Considering that it seems that one almost never sees the secondary Turbo kick in, the best option seems to be Offset Voltage mode with power savings. You can even change the + offset to - offset to have it reduce the amount of voltage under load, as you may find that it requires a lot less voltage to keep stability than what is automatically being set, offering even more power and heat savings than a custom turbo profile with stock voltages.


----------



## Qbiz4man

Ok, played with it all a bit more and here is what I found:

For Ref on my fx-6300 stock is Base 3500, T1 3800, T2 4100.

If you adjust the turbo ratio in the Bios it adjusts T2, not T1

If you adjust the base CPU ratio it adjusts base, but leaves T1 and T2 the same (which as you pointed out earlier can be an issue if base gets over 3800 with turbo enabled , then T1 will drop it down.

T2 seems to be illusive and only shows up under some kind of partial load. When I run P95 v25.11, I can get it to show up and fluctuate between T1 and T2 when I run the benchmark (which takes one core to 100%). That doesn't happen if I use Benchmark on P95 v 27.7 (it kicks all cores to 100% even though it only shows one worker thread?)

*I am curious, any one know what characteristics T1 and T2 mode are supposed to be engaged?*

So based on my earlier comments, I must revise a bit.

It appears that there is very little value in adjusting turbo mode ratio by itself. Further, since you cant do base over 3800 without running into T1's limit - there seems to be little point in upping base multiplier above 3800 and leaving turbo enabled.

While moving FSB will alleviate this issue, I am not sure it gains much (outside of the normal gains from upping FSB) because (unless someone can point to a different observation about how T2 is supposed to work) it appears that very little time is spent at T2 ratios, and even then it only with a subset of cores.

In short, in my case it appears disabling turbo and running base ratio up to 20 (4.0) seems to be better than any form of turbo unless it takes take FSB over 212 (which for me also has the downside that in-order to keep CNQ working, I have to specify offset, and where I pick the lowest as auto it jacks up volts over 1.42 whenever turbo is enabled).

And of course, I could just take it to 4.1 and be done with it

Thanks for all your help. Maybe I'll get another one of these boards & CPUs just to play with







(also makes me wonder how my 965BE would do)









Thanks again for the feedback.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbiz4man*
> 
> Ok, played with it all a bit more and here is what I found:
> 
> For Ref on my fx-6300 stock is Base 3500, T1 3800, T2 4100.
> 
> If you adjust the turbo ratio in the Bios it adjusts T2, not T1
> 
> If you adjust the base CPU ratio it adjusts base, but leaves T1 and T2 the same (which as you pointed out earlier can be an issue if base gets over 3800 with turbo enabled , then T1 will drop it down.
> 
> T2 seems to be illusive and only shows up under some kind of partial load. When I run P95 v25.11, I can get it to show up and fluctuate between T1 and T2 when I run the benchmark (which takes one core to 100%). That doesn't happen if I use Benchmark on P95 v 27.7 (it kicks all cores to 100% even though it only shows one worker thread?)
> 
> *I am curious, any one know what characteristics T1 and T2 mode are supposed to be engaged?*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> So based on my earlier comments, I must revise a bit.
> 
> It appears that there is very little value in adjusting turbo mode ratio by itself. Further, since you cant do base over 3800 without running into T1's limit - there seems to be little point in upping base multiplier above 3800 and leaving turbo enabled.
> 
> While moving FSB will alleviate this issue, I am not sure it gains much (outside of the normal gains from upping FSB) because (unless someone can point to a different observation about how T2 is supposed to work) it appears that very little time is spent at T2 ratios, and even then it only with a subset of cores.
> 
> In short, in my case it appears disabling turbo and running base ratio up to 20 (4.0) seems to be better than any form of turbo unless it takes take FSB over 212 (which for me also has the downside that in-order to keep CNQ working, I have to specify offset, and where I pick the lowest as auto it jacks up volts over 1.42 whenever turbo is enabled).
> 
> And of course, I could just take it to 4.1 and be done with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for all your help. Maybe I'll get another one of these boards & CPUs just to play with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (also makes me wonder how my 965BE would do)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks again for the feedback.


T1 - All Cores - As long as there is thermal headroom
T2 - 1/2 Cores - As long as there is thermal headroom

As you've seen T2 is essentially useless as the requirements to get it to actually activate are difficult. It would have to be a single threaded load, without any further multitasking.

Oh right. It is only T2 that you can increase in the BIOS, I forgot about that. Now I remember the whole reason for FSB + Turbo, because it's the only way to change T1 outside of software.

If you want something further to play around with, you can make your own power saving profile. I'll show you an example.
T1 = 4.1Ghz (200x20.5)

So you could increase the FSB to something like 220 to make T1 4.51Ghz.
Then you could lower the CPU Ratio to something low for idle situations - Maybe 8 or 1.76Ghz - or as low as you can get it to run.

If I remember correctly, the CPU ratio determines the Offset Base voltage, so you can tell it to add voltage under load, while still having it drop at idle.


----------



## Destrto

I have a quick question, not about overclocking so much, but I can't seem to find an answer anywhere obvious.

With the Asus M5A99fx Pro R2.0 board, it has the 2 Sata ports that are blue, now BIOS says they are Ext ports, and the specs sheet says they are part of the ASMEDIA PCIe Sata Controller, which is a different controller than the others, which run off the AMD SB950 controller. But what exactly are they used for? And can they be used as extra Hard Drive or Optical Drive ports?
Ports shown here >>


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick question, not about overclocking so much, but I can't seem to find an answer anywhere obvious.
> 
> With the Asus M5A99fx Pro R2.0 board, it has the 2 Sata ports that are blue, now BIOS says they are Ext ports, and the specs sheet says they are part of the ASMEDIA PCIe Sata Controller, which is a different controller than the others, which run off the AMD SB950 controller. But what exactly are they used for? And can they be used as extra Hard Drive or Optical Drive ports?
> Ports shown here >>


I believe they are the SATA 6 ports, where as the white ones are SATA 3.


----------



## Nick2d

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I have a quick question, not about overclocking so much, but I can't seem to find an answer anywhere obvious.
> 
> With the Asus M5A99fx Pro R2.0 board, it has the 2 Sata ports that are blue, now BIOS says they are Ext ports, and the specs sheet says they are part of the ASMEDIA PCIe Sata Controller, which is a different controller than the others, which run off the AMD SB950 controller. But what exactly are they used for? And can they be used as extra Hard Drive or Optical Drive ports?
> Ports shown here >>


As long as they're enabled in the bios (should be by default) then you can use them as internal. If you have a boot drive or optical connected, you may need to enable a bootable option under the Asmedia Sata controller in the bios. Otherwise, they seem to work as any other sata port in the OS for storage drives (I didn't notice a different hooked to the 2 Asmedia ports for storage on my CHVFZ)


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick2d*
> 
> As long as they're enabled in the bios (should be by default) then you can use them as internal. If you have a boot drive or optical connected, you may need to enable a bootable option under the Asmedia Sata controller in the bios. Otherwise, they seem to work as any other sata port in the OS for storage drives (I didn't notice a different hooked to the 2 Asmedia ports for storage on my CHVFZ)


That makes sense. They are enabled within BIOS. I was just curious as they are under the eSata portion, which made me think they were only used for External sata.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I believe they are the SATA 6 ports, where as the white ones are SATA 3.


They say all of the Sata ports are Sata6 on the spec sheet online.

From the looking around I did, It seems as though the only difference is that they are ran by 2 different Chipsets.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> That makes sense. They are enabled within BIOS. I was just curious as they are under the eSata portion, which made me think they were only used for External sata.
> They say all of the Sata ports are Sata6 on the spec sheet online.
> 
> From the looking around I did, It seems as though the only difference is that they are ran by 2 different Chipsets.


I think you're right.


----------



## DeusXXX

The five white ones (4horizontal +1vertical) are controlled by the southbridge (sb950).
The blue ones pair with a seperate controller (asmedia).

Your storage devices should always be connected to the white slots for better performance.
Only reason to use the blue is if you setup a raid array, due to possible conflicts and generally
known limitations of the sb950 s/b.

As for prime95 reporting errors check the version. From v27.7 avx commands are supported
and it should not report errors. My cpu was reporting errors even with optimized default settings
when i put this rig together. I read in several threads people stating thats its a prime95 issue but
i have come to believe its not.

After testing and crosschecking results i have found three major reason for prime95 errors.

1st Outdated version of prime95

2nd With default settings (Auto voltages) most m/bs tend to overvolt and unlike many other
platforms, piledriver doesn't tolerate overvolting, even within thermal specs.

3rd Because Amd decided that an Octacore can fit in a ****ty 45euro m/b, doesn't mean
it can work properly. Most 4+1 phase m/b cannot provide enough juice, if you're unlucky and
your cpu is power hungry (like mine 1.44v for 4.4ghz)

As for oc'ed cpus, to be fully stable, they must be able to pass any stress test
supporting avx commands (including prime95 v27.7).
The above statement take it for granted, i have thoroughly tested it.

2


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> The five white ones (4horizontal +1vertical) are controlled by the southbridge (sb950).
> The blue ones pair with a seperate controller (asmedia).
> 
> Your storage devices should always be connected to the white slots for better performance.
> Only reason to use the blue is if you setup a raid array, due to possible conflicts and generally
> known limitations of the sb950 s/b.
> 
> As for prime95 reporting errors check the version. From v27.7 avx commands are supported
> and it should not report errors. My cpu was reporting errors even with optimized default settings
> when i put this rig together. I read in several threads people stating thats its a prime95 issue but
> i have come to believe its not.
> 
> After testing and crosschecking results i have found three major reason for prime95 errors.
> 
> 1st Outdated version of prime95
> 
> 2nd With default settings (Auto voltages) most m/bs tend to overvolt and unlike many other
> platforms, piledriver doesn't tolerate overvolting, even within thermal specs.
> 
> 3rd Because Amd decided that an Octacore can fit in a ****ty 45euro m/b, doesn't mean
> it can work properly. Most 4+1 phase m/b cannot provide enough juice, if you're unlucky and
> your cpu is power hungry (like mine 1.44v for 4.4ghz)
> 
> As for oc'ed cpus, to be fully stable, they must be able to pass any stress test
> supporting avx commands (including prime95 v27.7).
> The above statement take it for granted, i have thoroughly tested it.
> 
> 2


Thanks for the extra details about the Sata connectors on the Mobo. If I'm understanding you correctly, I should move my RAID drives over to the Blue Ports?

As for Prime95, I have the latest build, and atleast for my particular system, regardless of what I tried, stock, overclocked or what else, it would not run without giving some error. My CPU does not seem to be as power hungry as yours, I'm running 4.5Ghz at 1.368V. Prime 95 will, however, run a good number of hours without issues, but eventually it does. Usually after the 7-8 hour mark.

I appreciate the information you've given. It definitely gives myself and possibly others, a better idea of what other causes for instability may be.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the extra details about the Sata connectors on the Mobo. If I'm understanding you correctly, I should move my RAID drives over to the Blue Ports?
> 
> As for Prime95, I have the latest build, and atleast for my particular system, regardless of what I tried, stock, overclocked or what else, it would not run without giving some error. My CPU does not seem to be as power hungry as yours, I'm running 4.5Ghz at 1.368V. Prime 95 will, however, run a good number of hours without issues, but eventually it does. Usually after the 7-8 hour mark.
> 
> I appreciate the information you've given. It definitely gives myself and possibly others, a better idea of what other causes for instability may be.


If you aren't experiencing issues with your raid setup as it is why change it, "if something isn't broken don't try to fix it" lol


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> If you aren't experiencing issues with your raid setup as it is why change it, "if something isn't broken don't try to fix it" lol


Speaking on that note, I tried switching them to the blue ports,and Bios would only recognize them as 2 separate drives. So using the blue ports was not successful.

I wm keeping all of my drives connected to the white ports as everything is working as intended currently.


----------



## asdf2

Hi! First, sorry for my english.
So, I've got a problem with my mobo. If I try to set higher 'FSB' (host clock) for example 220 then my memory and NB and HT clocks get higher. That's okay i set them lowe (memories on 14xx, NB 2200, HT2640, sorry i dont remember the numbers.. ) Then I save it reset, and after it just dont beep this machine... And nothing on screen. Then reboot (long press power button, to power off) it says 'last boot was failed...' so i just enter the UEFI and there i can see: memory: 14xx, NB: 2400, HT 2860(!!)

Si i think it just dont save my NB and HT clocks, and my mobo still run them at 11x220 and 13*220. What can i do? (im running 1503 bios)

And my mobo is: M5A99FX PRO R2.0


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asdf2*
> 
> Hi! First, sorry for my english.
> So, I've got a problem with my mobo. If I try to set higher 'FSB' (host clock) for example 220 then my memory and NB and HT clocks get higher. That's okay i set them lowe (memories on 14xx, NB 2200, HT2640, sorry i dont remember the numbers.. ) Then I save it reset, and after it just dont beep this machine... And nothing on screen. Then reboot (long press power button, to power off) it says 'last boot was failed...' so i just enter the UEFI and there i can see: memory: 14xx, NB: 2400, HT 2860(!!)
> 
> Si i think it just dont save my NB and HT clocks, and my mobo still run them at 11x220 and 13*220. What can i do? (im running 1503 bios)
> 
> And my mobo is: M5A99FX PRO R2.0


I've never seen it where the motherboard would save some settings and not others.

Are you using Manual Overclock mode?
Is your CPU being overclocked (if it's unstable and fails to boot, it might set the HT and CPU/NB back to the stock multiplier upon reboot)


----------



## Qrux

*@ComputerRestore, et al,

Thank you for a wonderful guide.* I've been a professional geek for almost 20 years, and I've never OC'ed a thing. I recently retired an old dual-Opteron mobo (ca. 2006, Opteron 140 or 160), and started testing some code on it. It was painfully slow, and since it was just a dev machine, I switched that CPU/mobo out for consumer parts, but something more modern. I ended with an *ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0* and an *FX-6350*. While I'm bummed that I didn't get the 8350, I'm quite happy with the rig. My project compile went from overnight-and-then-some to ~2 hours.

These "Black Edition" FX processors looked like they were "easy" to OC, and since I bought a decent heat-sink to go with it (*Noctua NH-L12*), and because the case has lots of room (Old CM Stacker STC-T01), I decided to try overclocking for the very first time. So, thanks again for the OP and everyone else who chimed in with their experiences.

Long story short, I was able to get *4.4 GHz on air, passing Prime95 Blend (75% memory) for 12 hours and also passing my own torture test.*

I was bummed I couldn't get more, because I'm only hitting about 55-deg at load (Prime95, Blend, 75%). But, despite 5 days of fiddling CPU, VDDA, and any other setting I thought applicable, I just couldn't get 4.5 stable for more than 3 hours of P95 or my personal test suite. I have a notion that the rig could handle it, but it needs more finesse than I have time to develop at the moment.

My personal test suite consists of building an entire GNU/Linux "distribution" from scratch. It's based off LFS (the Linux From Scratch project), with my own bits for cloud-deployment (i.e., using Xen as a VM hypervisor). My script (again, heavily leveraging the work the wonderful folks at LFS provided) builds an entire GNU/Linux system--including bootstrapping binutils, the compiler, then the rest of the system, and finally the kernel. I run all the available regression-test suites (which, on the old dual-Opteron system would take more than 15 hours). That particular workload is mostly integer math (not much compiling happening on the FPU), and I use '-j 6', which allows 'make' to push independent compiles to all 6 "cores". I'm not sure that this is optimal for the BD/PD architecture, since the "cores" share so much in the module, but it's probably fairly stressful. Building the compiler, glibc, and the kernel is a pretty arduous workload. In fact, at 4.5, even with 3+ hours of P95 passed, the compile suite failed after about 90 minutes.

So, I wanted a 12-hour stable P95 build, and my own test suite to build (with all the regression tests passing).

This is Day-6, and I've finally achieved that, thanks to this board and the various posters.

Here's where I ended up:

Freqs
----
22.0 / 200 / 100 (multi, bus, PCIe)
2200 MHz - CPU/NB Freq
2600 MHz - HT Link Speed

Voltages
----
1.38125 - CPU
1.25 - CPU/NB
2.55625 - VDDA
*1.4 - DRAM*
1.1 - NB
1.2 - NB HT
1.8 - NB 1.8
1.1 - SB

DIGI+ Power Control
----
*High - CPU LLC*
High - CPU/NB LLC
130% - CPU Current
130% - CPU/NB Current
*Optimized - CPU Power Phase Control*
Auto - CPU Voltage Freq
Enabled - VRM Spread Spectrum
T.Probe - CPU Power Duty Control
Auto - CPU Power Response Control
Auto - CPU/NB Power Response Control
130 - CPU Power Thermal Control
*130% - DRAM Current*
300 - DRAM Voltage Freq
Optimized - DRAM Power Phase Control

The settings in *BOLD* differ from the OP's "Recommended Settings". Here's my story (I'm sure the veterans know all this, but in case some nubsicle like myself is trying this, I'll offer my rookie insights.):

Initially, I stuck with the Recommended Settings. And, even at 4.6 GHz (multi-only, at 23.0), I was able to get, at stock voltages, a 10-min pass of Prime95 Small FFT. But, once I started the Blend tests, the system failed quickly. Almost always (and in the past 6 days I've done the SmFFT test many dozens of times), it was a single core failing, and always in the 3rd module. I assumed it was the 3rd because I used AMD OverDrive to monitor the system (the UI made it immediately obvious when P95 stopped working) and it was always showing either Core 5 or Core 6 failing.

I started playing with voltages, and here's where things started going sideways.

First, I noticed (I became more aware over time of things to look for) that my DRAM was not showing the right settings. I first saw this in my Memtest+ (which I *always* do before building a machine). It passed 2 passes, and I figured that my version (4.10) was old, and just wasn't seeing the right SPD settings. I learned, after much surfing, that SPD is sort of like a "configuration" written to the RAM, and may not reflect its actual capabilities.

I looked to the BIOS. The settings were off there, too. It showed 1333 MHz, and my sticks had 1600 MHz printed on the box, and these were "name-brand" sticks. Not the revered G.Skills, but Corsair (though the lower-quality XMS3 sticks). Since I had 32 GB of this stuff (4x8), I figured that running it at speed would be nice. In case anyone else has this memory, it's: *Corsair XMS3 CMX16GX3M2A1600C11*.

So, in the Ai Tweaker, I upped the Auto 1333 to Manual 1600. Boy was that a...mistake.

After that "fix", I wasn't able to get P95 Blend working for more than 2 minutes at a time. Seemed pretty obvious that Blend used a ton of memory, and I either had bad sticks (which seemed unlikely, given the multiple Memtest+ passes) or bad settings (duh). So, I took more steps, but sadly for me, that was *BEFORE* I read about SPD. I set the DRAM Timings to 9-9-9-24-T1, manually. I thought to myself: "How clever, man, you can totally rock this."

Oh was I wrong. Windows sometimes didn't boot, and sometimes BSODed even before I got to start P95.

Turns out, I should learn to read memory model numbers. The "...C11" should have been a clue. After some more research on the Interwebs, I realized that the timings which were actually verified for that memory at 1600 MHz were 11-11-11-30. So, I plugged that in. I thought: "Good job. You've got it now." Wrong again. More research. Thanks to other blog posts (heck, it may have been another OCN thread) I realized *the correct DRAM timing was actually 11-11-11-30-T2*.

That worked. Now, Blend was running, but never more than about 1 hour at a time before failure.

So, I was back to voltage-grinding (think MMORPG levels here...).

I kept going up, until I hit the thermal ceiling (also took a while to realize the the *PACKAGE temp was actually Core Temp*--should have read OP's post more carefully, and that it would be lower than the SOCKET temp (labeled "CPU"). Anyway, I wasn't having much luck with the multi-only method. So, I tried to turn down the multiplier and bumped the FSB. Still no joy.

Then, going back and *reading the original post more carefully* (that post is dense, I tells ya), I started over. In doing so, *I realized that I had never bumped the CPU/NB Manual Voltage setting*. Realizing that it was related to the IMC--and that my Small FFTs were perfectly solid and that my Blends were failing hard--*I then bumped the CPU/NB voltage to 1.25*. This seemed to help, but I still wasn't able to get across the 3-hour mark in Blend.

Same with VDDA. I hadn't adjusted that up from what Auto was (don't have clear notes about that setting). Went back to read the original post. *Same story; I hadn't been careful enough...*

Also, at some point around Day-3, I installed *OCCT. ZOMGwonderful*. That told a lot of the story right away. I set it to watch Vcore. Now, after achieving a stable setup, I have no idea if what I did was "right", or even "on track". I can only observe the result, and I only have a vague intuition about correlation. Before correctly setting VDDA, which by Day-4 I had not touched (again, not careful enough reading the original post), I saw two different things with Vcore:

*1) On Prime95 Small FFT, I saw a straight line.* Virtually no deviation once load was applied, at least as far as the sampling aliased the measurements.

*2) On Prime95 Blend, I saw a...saw. The voltage was super-erratic.*

On Blend, I would notice an immediate spike. Followed by an erratic shark's mouth of voltage "teeth". Now, for those who are even casually versed in signals knows that it's pretty hard to tell a spike from a droop. A short spike might actually be 2 long droops, etc. So, what I'm describing might not actually be the case, but I'm going on my gut--since I have no theory, only observations. Point is, I was seeing lots of spikes, a lot of the time. For example, if I had CPU at 1.38125 (@ 4.5 GHz), idle Vcore was 1.38. When Blend started, there were spikes up to 1.392. Then, maybe there were stretches at 1.392, and then other stretches at 1.38, and in between those plateaus there were just these awful-looking spikes and droops, occurring at ~1sec intervals. At that point, it's hard to tell one from the other.

The key word now, of course, is "droop". And so started an investigation into Vdroop (which I thought was hacker slang). I ended up in a mess of technical documents, far out of my depth. So, here's where I had to turn knobs "in the dark", and made some "educated" guesses. Vdroop was a real thing. I developed a vague notion of what LLC was doing. And, I thought that might be the cause of the spikes. I got worried that spikes were causing the instability (pushing the CPU too hot with LLC st to "Ultra-High"). And, since VDDA helps with stability, I did two things (not at the same time, but I think I've been going on for a quite a while now, given how small my scroll thumb has gotten): *I upped VDDA to 2.5. That helped.* I was getting past 3 hours. I also changed the Load Line Calibration settings. *I went from CPU LLC of "Ultra High" to just "High". I also eventually landed on VDDA at 2.55625*, because that seemed to offer more stability than just upping the CPU Manual Voltage setting and didn't seem to push the temps as hard.

In the end, I still see frequent voltage spikes, in between stretches of voltage quiescence, even in my final stable settings. Vcore swung from 1.356 to 1.368. But, they look like droops now (which I expected, from a lower LLC setting). And, that sorta makes sense to me....

*Even still, the Vcore swings look wrong. I feel like, even at load, Vcore should be stable*. And, that's not to say it isn't ever stable. I might get 20 minutes of a flat line, but that's followed by 5 minutes of swings. But, maybe that's how voltage always looks when running Blend...IDK...maybe memory accesses cause droops/spikes. *I'd very much welcome a knowledgeable opinion here on the Vcore swings.*

I lowered the DRAM voltage down to 1.4 eventually, and that didn't have any observable effect on the saw-tooth voltage, though OP relayed that lower DRAM voltage might help reduce the stress on the IMC, which I figured was good given that Blend--and never Small FFT--was the problem.

So, at the end of the last *Prime95 Blend (75%) test, I stopped at 12 hours stable (no cores failed),* and the *max temps reported by OCCT were 55-deg C (package/core) and 59-deg C (socket/cpu).* That seemed healthy enough to me. And, I passed my own compilation torture test in the middle of the afternoon (ambient was ~30-deg C).

I have some images, too, of my air-cooled setup (it's pretty...ugly, but, IMO, clever), and of the OCCT voltage spikes, if anyone happens to have made it past this wall-of-text-crittage, and would like to see those.

Sorry about the ramblage...

_*TL;DR - Thanks for creating this post.*_ *4.4 GHz (13% OC) on air* is a fine result. For me, stability is a big issue--I used it to test the a system I eventually duplicate in production, so stable >>> crazy-fast. Grats, too, for all those who have successfully OC'ed from this post. Perhaps, armed with more time and experience, I'll be able to get better results in the future. And, for other intrepid explorers, *READ THE ORIGINAL POST CAREFULLY*. Duh. _And, may the source be with you._


----------



## DeusXXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Thanks for the extra details about the Sata connectors on the Mobo. If I'm understanding you correctly, I should move my RAID drives over to the Blue Ports?
> 
> As for Prime95, I have the latest build, and atleast for my particular system, regardless of what I tried, stock, overclocked or what else, it would not run without giving some error. My CPU does not seem to be as power hungry as yours, I'm running 4.5Ghz at 1.368V. Prime 95 will, however, run a good number of hours without issues, but eventually it does. Usually after the 7-8 hour mark.
> 
> I appreciate the information you've given. It definitely gives myself and possibly others, a better idea of what other causes for instability may be.


I am sorry for my terrible syntax. I am not native english...

What i meant is that raid goes to the white ports (sb950), and all other sata devices must go
to the blue ports in order not to have conflicts and performance issues. Also depending on
the number of your raid devices (usually two or four as raid 5 with 3 devices is not recommended)
you should start populating first the bottom white ports (sata3_1 sata3_2) and move upwards.

As for 7 hours prime95 without errors means that your oc is fairly stable, but something minor
should be adjusted. Most propably you won't ever notice because in real use your not gonna
stress your cpu that much, and if that error is actually ever reproduced in gaming or other use
it might be a hickup, a small framedrop or something that wont affect your experience.
So if your not having issues in everyday use go on and enjoy your oc!

On a side note. Have you tried stock clocks but without default settings in bios?
Meaning that you set the settings as described by the guide and leave only
cpu multiplier, cpu voltage and cpu/nb voltage at default.
I would be very surprised if this setup produced prime95 errors.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qrux*
> 
> *
> *





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> @ComputerRestore, et al,
> 
> Thank you for a wonderful guide. I've been a professional geek for almost 20 years, and I've never OC'ed a thing. I recently retired an old dual-Opteron mobo (ca. 2006, Opteron 140 or 160), and started testing some code on it. It was painfully slow, and since it was just a dev machine, I switched that CPU/mobo out for consumer parts, but something more modern. I ended with an *ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0* and an *FX-6350*. While I'm bummed that I didn't get the 8350, I'm quite happy with the rig. My project compile went from overnight-and-then-some to ~2 hours.
> 
> These "Black Edition" FX processors looked like they were "easy" to OC, and since I bought a decent heat-sink to go with it (*Noctua NH-L12*), and because the case has lots of room (Old CM Stacker STC-T01), I decided to try overclocking for the very first time. So, thanks again for the OP and everyone else who chimed in with their experiences.
> 
> Long story short, I was able to get *4.4 GHz on air, passing Prime95 Blend (75% memory) for 12 hours and also passing my own torture test.*
> 
> I was bummed I couldn't get more, because I'm only hitting about 55-deg at load (Prime95, Blend, 75%). But, despite 5 days of fiddling CPU, VDDA, and any other setting I thought applicable, I just couldn't get 4.5 stable for more than 3 hours of P95 or my personal test suite. I have a notion that the rig could handle it, but it needs more finesse than I have time to develop at the moment.
> 
> My personal test suite consists of building an entire GNU/Linux "distribution" from scratch. It's based off LFS (the Linux From Scratch project), with my own bits for cloud-deployment (i.e., using Xen as a VM hypervisor). My script (again, heavily leveraging the work the wonderful folks at LFS provided) builds an entire GNU/Linux system--including bootstrapping binutils, the compiler, then the rest of the system, and finally the kernel. I run all the available regression-test suites (which, on the old dual-Opteron system would take more than 15 hours). That particular workload is mostly integer math (not much compiling happening on the FPU), and I use '-j 6', which allows 'make' to push independent compiles to all 6 "cores". I'm not sure that this is optimal for the BD/PD architecture, since the "cores" share so much in the module, but it's probably fairly stressful. Building the compiler, glibc, and the kernel is a pretty arduous workload. In fact, at 4.5, even with 3+ hours of P95 passed, the compile suite failed after about 90 minutes.
> 
> So, I wanted a 12-hour stable P95 build, and my own test suite to build (with all the regression tests passing).
> 
> This is Day-6, and I've finally achieved that, thanks to this board and the various posters.
> 
> Here's where I ended up:
> 
> Freqs
> ----
> 22.0 / 200 / 100 (multi, bus, PCIe)
> 2200 MHz - CPU/NB Freq
> 2600 MHz - HT Link Speed
> 
> Voltages
> ----
> 1.38125 - CPU
> 1.25 - CPU/NB
> 2.55625 - VDDA
> *1.4 - DRAM*
> 1.1 - NB
> 1.2 - NB HT
> 1.8 - NB 1.8
> 1.1 - SB
> 
> DIGI+ Power Control
> ----
> *High - CPU LLC*
> High - CPU/NB LLC
> 130% - CPU Current
> 130% - CPU/NB Current
> *Optimized - CPU Power Phase Control*
> Auto - CPU Voltage Freq
> Enabled - VRM Spread Spectrum
> T.Probe - CPU Power Duty Control
> Auto - CPU Power Response Control
> Auto - CPU/NB Power Response Control
> 130 - CPU Power Thermal Control
> *130% - DRAM Current*
> 300 - DRAM Voltage Freq
> Optimized - DRAM Power Phase Control
> 
> The settings in *BOLD* differ from the OP's "Recommended Settings". Here's my story (I'm sure the veterans know all this, but in case some nubsicle like myself is trying this, I'll offer my rookie insights.):
> 
> Initially, I stuck with the Recommended Settings. And, even at 4.6 GHz (multi-only, at 23.0), I was able to get, at stock voltages, a 10-min pass of Prime95 Small FFT. But, once I started the Blend tests, the system failed quickly. Almost always (and in the past 6 days I've done the SmFFT test many dozens of times), it was a single core failing, and always in the 3rd module. I assumed it was the 3rd because I used AMD OverDrive to monitor the system (the UI made it immediately obvious when P95 stopped working) and it was always showing either Core 5 or Core 6 failing.
> 
> I started playing with voltages, and here's where things started going sideways.
> 
> First, I noticed (I became more aware over time of things to look for) that my DRAM was not showing the right settings. I first saw this in my Memtest+ (which I *always* do before building a machine). It passed 2 passes, and I figured that my version (4.10) was old, and just wasn't seeing the right SPD settings. I learned, after much surfing, that SPD is sort of like a "configuration" written to the RAM, and may not reflect its actual capabilities.
> 
> I looked to the BIOS. The settings were off there, too. It showed 1333 MHz, and my sticks had 1600 MHz printed on the box, and these were "name-brand" sticks. Not the revered G.Skills, but Corsair (though the lower-quality XMS3 sticks). Since I had 32 GB of this stuff (4x8), I figured that running it at speed would be nice. In case anyone else has this memory, it's: *Corsair XMS3 CMX16GX3M2A1600C11*.
> 
> So, in the Ai Tweaker, I upped the Auto 1333 to Manual 1600. Boy was that a...mistake.
> 
> After that "fix", I wasn't able to get P95 Blend working for more than 2 minutes at a time. Seemed pretty obvious that Blend used a ton of memory, and I either had bad sticks (which seemed unlikely, given the multiple Memtest+ passes) or bad settings (duh). So, I took more steps, but sadly for me, that was *BEFORE* I read about SPD. I set the DRAM Timings to 9-9-9-24-T1, manually. I thought to myself: "How clever, man, you can totally rock this."
> 
> Oh was I wrong. Windows sometimes didn't boot, and sometimes BSODed even before I got to start P95.
> 
> Turns out, I should learn to read memory model numbers. The "...C11" should have been a clue. After some more research on the Interwebs, I realized that the timings which were actually verified for that memory at 1600 MHz were 11-11-11-30. So, I plugged that in. I thought: "Good job. You've got it now." Wrong again. More research. Thanks to other blog posts (heck, it may have been another OCN thread) I realized *the correct DRAM timing was actually 11-11-11-30-T2*.
> 
> That worked. Now, Blend was running, but never more than about 1 hour at a time before failure.
> 
> So, I was back to voltage-grinding (think MMORPG levels here...).
> 
> I kept going up, until I hit the thermal ceiling (also took a while to realize the the *PACKAGE temp was actually Core Temp*--should have read OP's post more carefully, and that it would be lower than the SOCKET temp (labeled "CPU"). Anyway, I wasn't having much luck with the multi-only method. So, I tried to turn down the multiplier and bumped the FSB. Still no joy.
> 
> Then, going back and *reading the original post more carefully* (that post is dense, I tells ya), I started over. In doing so, *I realized that I had never bumped the CPU/NB Manual Voltage setting*. Realizing that it was related to the IMC--and that my Small FFTs were perfectly solid and that my Blends were failing hard--*I then bumped the CPU/NB voltage to 1.25*. This seemed to help, but I still wasn't able to get across the 3-hour mark in Blend.
> 
> Same with VDDA. I hadn't adjusted that up from what Auto was (don't have clear notes about that setting). Went back to read the original post. *Same story; I hadn't been careful enough...*
> 
> Also, at some point around Day-3, I installed *OCCT. ZOMGwonderful*. That told a lot of the story right away. I set it to watch Vcore. Now, after achieving a stable setup, I have no idea if what I did was "right", or even "on track". I can only observe the result, and I only have a vague intuition about correlation. Before correctly setting VDDA, which by Day-4 I had not touched (again, not careful enough reading the original post), I saw two different things with Vcore:
> 
> *1) On Prime95 Small FFT, I saw a straight line.* Virtually no deviation once load was applied, at least as far as the sampling aliased the measurements.
> 
> *2) On Prime95 Blend, I saw a...saw. The voltage was super-erratic.*
> 
> On Blend, I would notice an immediate spike. Followed by an erratic shark's mouth of voltage "teeth". Now, for those who are even casually versed in signals knows that it's pretty hard to tell a spike from a droop. A short spike might actually be 2 long droops, etc. So, what I'm describing might not actually be the case, but I'm going on my gut--since I have no theory, only observations. Point is, I was seeing lots of spikes, a lot of the time. For example, if I had CPU at 1.38125 (@ 4.5 GHz), idle Vcore was 1.38. When Blend started, there were spikes up to 1.392. Then, maybe there were stretches at 1.392, and then other stretches at 1.38, and in between those plateaus there were just these awful-looking spikes and droops, occurring at ~1sec intervals. At that point, it's hard to tell one from the other.
> 
> The key word now, of course, is "droop". And so started an investigation into Vdroop (which I thought was hacker slang). I ended up in a mess of technical documents, far out of my depth. So, here's where I had to turn knobs "in the dark", and made some "educated" guesses. Vdroop was a real thing. I developed a vague notion of what LLC was doing. And, I thought that might be the cause of the spikes. I got worried that spikes were causing the instability (pushing the CPU too hot with LLC st to "Ultra-High"). And, since VDDA helps with stability, I did two things (not at the same time, but I think I've been going on for a quite a while now, given how small my scroll thumb has gotten): *I upped VDDA to 2.5. That helped.* I was getting past 3 hours. I also changed the Load Line Calibration settings. *I went from CPU LLC of "Ultra High" to just "High". I also eventually landed on VDDA at 2.55625*, because that seemed to offer more stability than just upping the CPU Manual Voltage setting and didn't seem to push the temps as hard.
> 
> In the end, I still see frequent voltage spikes, in between stretches of voltage quiescence, even in my final stable settings. Vcore swung from 1.356 to 1.368. But, they look like droops now (which I expected, from a lower LLC setting). And, that sorta makes sense to me....
> 
> *Even still, the Vcore swings look wrong. I feel like, even at load, Vcore should be stable*. And, that's not to say it isn't ever stable. I might get 20 minutes of a flat line, but that's followed by 5 minutes of swings. But, maybe that's how voltage always looks when running Blend...IDK...maybe memory accesses cause droops/spikes. *I'd very much welcome a knowledgeable opinion here on the Vcore swings.*
> 
> I lowered the DRAM voltage down to 1.4 eventually, and that didn't have any observable effect on the saw-tooth voltage, though OP relayed that lower DRAM voltage might help reduce the stress on the IMC, which I figured was good given that Blend--and never Small FFT--was the problem.
> 
> So, at the end of the last *Prime95 Blend (75%) test, I stopped at 12 hours stable (no cores failed),* and the *max temps reported by OCCT were 55-deg C (package/core) and 59-deg C (socket/cpu).* That seemed healthy enough to me. And, I passed my own compilation torture test in the middle of the afternoon (ambient was ~30-deg C).
> 
> I have some images, too, of my air-cooled setup (it's pretty...ugly, but, IMO, clever), and of the OCCT voltage spikes, if anyone happens to have made it past this wall-of-text-crittage, and would like to see those.
> 
> Sorry about the ramblage...
> 
> _*TL;DR - Thanks for creating this post.*_ *4.4 GHz (13% OC) on air* is a fine result. For me, stability is a big issue--I used it to test the a system I eventually duplicate in production, so stable >>> crazy-fast. Grats, too, for all those who have successfully OC'ed from this post. Perhaps, armed with more time and experience, I'll be able to get better results in the future. And, for other intrepid explorers, *READ THE ORIGINAL POST CAREFULLY*. Duh. _And, may the source be with you._






Thanks for posting your Overclock experience. It was both entertaining and I learned a bit more about how these beasts work.

If you could provide a bit more insight into your setting choices I would really appreciate it.

DRAM Current - 130% - In your case, did increasing this setting help with stability/memory usage etc?
Quote:


> Since I had 32 GB of this stuff (4x8), I figured that running it at speed would be nice.


Your rig differs from mine, as I was only using 2 X 4GB Modules of Samsung Green which runs at 1.3v. I think that's an area of my guide I need to improve on, as the Recommended Settings are based on pushing a tricyle - where as someone like yourself who is pushing a dump truck may have issues using those settings.

What did you end up with for Ram Speed/Settings? (Did you stick with the 1600Mhz 11-11-11-30 2T @ 1.4v)

Did you have to drop your DRAM voltage to 1.4v to maintain stability with the 32GB?


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> I am sorry for my terrible syntax. I am not native english...
> 
> What i meant is that raid goes to the white ports (sb950), and all other sata devices must go
> to the blue ports in order not to have conflicts and performance issues. Also depending on
> the number of your raid devices (usually two or four as raid 5 with 3 devices is not recommended)
> you should start populating first the bottom white ports (sata3_1 sata3_2) and move upwards.
> 
> As for 7 hours prime95 without errors means that your oc is fairly stable, but something minor
> should be adjusted. Most propably you won't ever notice because in real use your not gonna
> stress your cpu that much, and if that error is actually ever reproduced in gaming or other use
> it might be a hickup, a small framedrop or something that wont affect your experience.
> So if your not having issues in everyday use go on and enjoy your oc!





On a side note. Have you tried stock clocks but without default settings in bios?
Meaning that you set the settings as described by the guide and leave only
cpu multiplier, cpu voltage and cpu/nb voltage at default.
I would be very surprised if this setup produced prime95 errors.
I did actually test Prime95 with manually setting my clocks to stock numbers, and I still received crashes and failures. Prime95 has just never liked my system, and although I know a lot of people swear by it, I'm personally not a fan. Intel Burn Test does the same job (Looking up the technical details explains they both perform the same standard test) and I've gotten reliable results from it on repeated occasions. However, I am also aware that reliability between IBT and Prime95 is user specific, so I stay unbiased towards or against any one program and simply state "this is what worked for me".

Thank you for clarifying about the Sata ports. I do in fact have the Raid drives occupying the bottom most White Slots on the board, and my 2 storage drives on the next 2 above those. Everything is running smoothly for me currently. Games play swimmingly, 1080p videos play without hiccups, and overall I'm satisfied.


----------



## aas88keyz

I am not a fan of Prime95 and also tend to prefer IBT to stress the CPU but what Prime95 can do that IBT can not perform as well is testing the memory and the imc for stability which is equally important for overall stability. I will usually keep things at stock except the cpu and work on my CPU overclock. about the time I hit a wall I start my memory overclock in frequency and latency using memtest. And finally I start my IMC stress testing and overclocking if needed using Prime95 blend testing. If I can perform these test at my max overclocks I can pretty much be assured that I can be stable at most anything else.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> I am not a fan of Prime95 and also tend to prefer IBT to stress the CPU but what Prime95 can do that IBT can not perform as well is testing the memory and the imc for stability which is equally important for overall stability. I will usually keep things at stock except the cpu and work on my CPU overclock. about the time I hit a wall I start my memory overclock in frequency and latency using memtest. And finally I start my IMC stress testing and overclocking if needed using Prime95 blend testing. If I can perform these test at my max overclocks I can pretty much be assured that I can be stable at most anything else.


I've found that IBT is able to perform a decent memory stress with the higher test settings, which utilize more RAM, or you can set your own value. Granted, the tests then take longer with the more memory you choose to use. but that's just my personal experience.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> I am not a fan of Prime95 and also tend to prefer IBT to stress the CPU but what Prime95 can do that IBT can not perform as well is testing the memory and the imc for stability which is equally important for overall stability. I will usually keep things at stock except the cpu and work on my CPU overclock. about the time I hit a wall I start my memory overclock in frequency and latency using memtest. And finally I start my IMC stress testing and overclocking if needed using Prime95 blend testing. If I can perform these test at my max overclocks I can pretty much be assured that I can be stable at most anything else.
> 
> 
> 
> I've found that IBT is able to perform a decent memory stress with the higher test settings, which utilize more RAM, or you can set your own value. Granted, the tests then take longer with the more memory you choose to use. but that's just my personal experience.
Click to expand...

Yes, there are settings in IBT to increase memory to put more stress on the cpu because the computations are more complex. Though, when centered on the memory stability itself, memtest will use a variety of tests and trials that will find failures in memory faster and will tell you exactly what those failures are. There are but a few programs out there that will find errors in memory timings than with memtest. But the cpu/nb can't be tested as well with IBT or memtest. There are better programs for CPU/NB including but not only Prime95 blend test. I use Prime95 blend, AMD overdrive is another and lately I have been using AIDA64 that has proven to help me find the instabilities of the CPU/NB that every day use programs would be shown to have in real time scenarios. But I have learned in my experience that all in all there is not necessarily one program that test and gives answers to overall stability. If someone only tests on IBT and the stability test fails where do they start? Most people would assume CPU and adjust voltage and settings "appropriately" But how will someone know for sure it is the CPU and not memory. IBT can't answer that. Same for testing the CPU/NB through IBT. Does not give a clear answer that it is the CPU/NB that is unstable. Still adjusting setting for CPU voltage and settings. I have learned that turning knobs on one hardware component a lot of times masks the stability with more voltage or high/lower frequencies. Some people concentrating on CPU stabilities could eventually put more unnecessary stress and heat on that one component. But if someone takes time and works on each component, one at a time, they could find the cooler more stable balance.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Yes, there are settings in IBT to increase memory to put more stress on the cpu because the computations are more complex. Though, when centered on the memory stability itself, memtest will use a variety of tests and trials that will find failures in memory faster and will tell you exactly what those failures are. There are but a few programs out there that will find errors in memory timings than with memtest. But the cpu/nb can't be tested as well with IBT or memtest. There are better programs for CPU/NB including but not only Prime95 blend test. I use Prime95 blend, AMD overdrive is another and lately I have been using AIDA64 that has proven to help me find the instabilities of the CPU/NB that every day use programs would be shown to have in real time scenarios. But I have learned in my experience that all in all there is not necessarily one program that test and gives answers to overall stability. If someone only tests on IBT and the stability test fails where do they start? Most people would assume CPU and adjust voltage and settings "appropriately" But how will someone know for sure it is the CPU and not memory. IBT can't answer that. Same for testing the CPU/NB through IBT. Does not give a clear answer that it is the CPU/NB that is unstable. Still adjusting setting for CPU voltage and settings. I have learned that turning knobs on one hardware component a lot of times masks the stability with more voltage or high/lower frequencies. Some people concentrating on CPU stabilities could eventually put more unnecessary stress and heat on that one component. But if someone takes time and works on each component, one at a time, they could find the cooler more stable balance.


That is very true. I might have to check out these other programs and see what results I get.

About AIDA64, is there a way to see the specific details of any error it gives? one stability test gave a hardware error after about an hour, but I was not able to find any info on which hardware device exactly.


----------



## Qrux

@ComputerRestore - I'm definitely not claiming expertise. Most of my choices were trial-and-error, and I can only confirm that my results worked for my particular case. Additionally, I have no idea about "binning", or whether I have "flaky" parts or "solid" parts...(Also, I don't know how to quote...)

To get to your questions...*I chose DRAM Current of 130% because I inferred*--though this isn't based on any evidence (because I'm not a get-out-the-multimeter-and-start-measuring-pins-on-the-mobo kind of guy)--*that just like CPU Current, upping the current through the memory doesn't actually cause it to use more current; but simply allows more current to flow*.

Most of the posts in this thread talk about 2 sticks. I think DEUSXXX's post that you linked to in the guide was the only one that stuck out for me as someone using 4 sticks (though, that may just be bad analog memory on my part). Since I'm already busy making assumption (and asses), I just sorta thought, based on shaky high school physics first principles, that more sticks probably means "more juice needed". Meaning, since I was using a fixed voltage setting for the DRAM, I should probably allow more current. If I had to guess, (making more asses by the minute), I'd say that the 130% DRAM Current Capability is probably helping more than my DRAM voltage setting. Astute high-schoolers will realize at this point that I failed to factor in "resistance" in my shoddy guesswork. And they'd be right, because I just have no idea if these setting apply to a single slot, or to the entire DRAM subsystem (assuming that's a thing), or how RAM interacts with the rest of the system electronically.

The reason I suspected memory in the first place (again, empirically, and not based on a sound theoretical understanding of how these things work) is that on the same OC profile, Prime95 Small FFT always worked (little-to-no memory accesses)--with very stable voltages and temps--but Blend (75% mem, which for me meant typing in '24576') was causing a lot of voltage fluctuations. So, I figured that since my sticks weren't at all warm (I've a fan blowing right onto them, so they stay pretty chilly--at least their heatsinks do) I could allow more current. Of course, I have no way of knowing if that change actually affected anything...

I had also read somewhere that the the M5A99X (and similar boards--I assumed they were referring to chipset) didn't really deal well with 4 sticks. I assumed that meant that it didn't allow high mem overclocks. I wanted them at 1600 (despite the SPD config), but I didn't push them past what the box said they could do.

*I ended up at manually setting them (4 sticks of 8 GB) to 1600 MHz at 11-11-11-30-2T, with 1.4 V.* At a later date, I may try to "tighten up the timings", but I suspect (based on prior failures at 9-9-9-24-1T) that I don't have much leeway here. Even with those settings, I still get Vcore fluctuations using Blend. But, the tests are passing, so I'm living with it...

As for the DRAM voltage...I chose 1.4 V as a "subjective compromise" between what DEUSXXX said about lowering DRAM voltage to reduce stress on the IMC "to improve stability" (which is probably being stressed pretty hard during the Blend-75% test) and going the other way (upping voltages) to...well, frankly, I don't know what a higher voltage potential for RAM does, other than assuming it was for analogous reasons to upping CPU voltage--which I would guess also improves stability. Odd that it could go both ways with DRAM.

The short answer is, I chose 1.4 V because of the potential "reduced IMC stress". Though, now that you've asked, I might try increasing the voltage--at least up to 1.65. *Does anyone know if a DRAM voltage setting that's too low can cause CPU voltage ("Vcore", according to OCCT) to swing?* I honestly don't know if upping it will "improve" things (i.e., allow a higher overclock for when I'm ready to try that, if ever), or even if lowering it to 1.4 is actually helping.

So, to the extent that I can add any data to this thread, it would be that for my memory, the 4x8GB sticks, my timings allow my setup to work. Now, having said that, the Corsair site lists this memory as "Dual Channel": Corsair XMS3 CMX16GX3M2A1600C11. I'm not sure what this means, and I'm worried that it might mean that 4 sticks of this stuff were never meant to be used together. I base that off the specs from a better Corsair product: Corsair Vengence Extreme, which explicitly state "Dual / Quad Channel". It makes me suspect that there might be some difference. (Info under "Tech Specs".)

@DEUSXXX - I'm pretty confused by your conclusion that running DRAM at 1.5 V (instead of 1.65 V) causes less power to go through the IMC. I'm definitely not saying you're wrong; I'm just trying to figure out 1) how you measured that, and 2) if this means that DRAM voltage is somehow "pushes" through to the CPU/NB (since you speculated that lower DRAM voltages might stabilize the IMC).

I'm just having a hard time seeing why DRAM voltage would affect the IMC. From my admittedly sketchy guesses, it would seem that simply using 4 sticks--as you were and as I current am--is what's increasing the current to the IMC (more stuff to control, more current flowing). When you measured the power through the IMC, was after changing settings? Or dropping down to 2 sticks?

And, you end with this:
Quote:


> Most people using 4 ram nodules reduce their ram speed or cpu/nb speed to have acceptable cpu/nb voltage whereas reducing ram voltage (when possible of course) could give better yields/stability.


What did you mean when you said "to have acceptable CPU/NB voltage"? Do you mean that increasing RAM speed requires a concomitant increase to CPU/NB voltage, so it was necessary to drop RAM speed to keep CPU/NB voltages from hurting the OC (by increasing the thermal load)...?

As for my own problem...To the extent my "problem" is these Vcore swings, I'm not sure which part of the chain (CPU/NB/IMC/DRAM) should be adjusted--or if the Vcore swings are even an issue (the system produces correct results, but maybe I'm frying my CPU/RAM?).

So, maybe going down to a DRAM Voltage of 1.4 V was unnecessary...I can see spending the next long-weekend doing some more tests.








I'm still interested to see if it's possible to somehow get my Vcore to be flat under Prime95 Blend load. It takes so long to figure out which knobs to turn and now to turn them...No conclusions here, yet.

Which is all to say...I realize I'm probably confusing many issues here, so thank you all for all the work you've put into this thread to help a nubsicle like me get even a modest overclock!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qrux*
> 
> @ComputerRestore - I'm definitely not claiming expertise. Most of my choices were trial-and-error, and I can only confirm that my results worked for my particular case. Additionally, I have no idea about "binning", or whether I have "flaky" parts or "solid" parts...(Also, I don't know how to quote...)





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> To get to your questions...*I chose DRAM Current of 130% because I inferred*--though this isn't based on any evidence (because I'm not a get-out-the-multimeter-and-start-measuring-pins-on-the-mobo kind of guy)--*that just like CPU Current, upping the current through the memory doesn't actually cause it to use more current; but simply allows more current to flow*.
> 
> Most of the posts in this thread talk about 2 sticks. I think DEUSXXX's post that you linked to in the guide was the only one that stuck out for me as someone using 4 sticks (though, that may just be bad analog memory on my part). Since I'm already busy making assumption (and asses), I just sorta thought, based on shaky high school physics first principles, that more sticks probably means "more juice needed". Meaning, since I was using a fixed voltage setting for the DRAM, I should probably allow more current. If I had to guess, (making more asses by the minute), I'd say that the 130% DRAM Current Capability is probably helping more than my DRAM voltage setting. Astute high-schoolers will realize at this point that I failed to factor in "resistance" in my shoddy guesswork. And they'd be right, because I just have no idea if these setting apply to a single slot, or to the entire DRAM subsystem (assuming that's a thing), or how RAM interacts with the rest of the system electronically.
> 
> The reason I suspected memory in the first place (again, empirically, and not based on a sound theoretical understanding of how these things work) is that on the same OC profile, Prime95 Small FFT always worked (little-to-no memory accesses)--with very stable voltages and temps--but Blend (75% mem, which for me meant typing in '24576') was causing a lot of voltage fluctuations. So, I figured that since my sticks weren't at all warm (I've a fan blowing right onto them, so they stay pretty chilly--at least their heatsinks do) I could allow more current. Of course, I have no way of knowing if that change actually affected anything...
> 
> I had also read somewhere that the the M5A99X (and similar boards--I assumed they were referring to chipset) didn't really deal well with 4 sticks. I assumed that meant that it didn't allow high mem overclocks. I wanted them at 1600 (despite the SPD config), but I didn't push them past what the box said they could do.
> 
> *I ended up at manually setting them (4 sticks of 8 GB) to 1600 MHz at 11-11-11-30-2T, with 1.4 V.* At a later date, I may try to "tighten up the timings", but I suspect (based on prior failures at 9-9-9-24-1T) that I don't have much leeway here. Even with those settings, I still get Vcore fluctuations using Blend. But, the tests are passing, so I'm living with it...
> 
> As for the DRAM voltage...I chose 1.4 V as a "subjective compromise" between what DEUSXXX said about lowering DRAM voltage to reduce stress on the IMC "to improve stability" (which is probably being stressed pretty hard during the Blend-75% test) and going the other way (upping voltages) to...well, frankly, I don't know what a higher voltage potential for RAM does, other than assuming it was for analogous reasons to upping CPU voltage--which I would guess also improves stability. Odd that it could go both ways with DRAM.
> 
> The short answer is, I chose 1.4 V because of the potential "reduced IMC stress". Though, now that you've asked, I might try increasing the voltage--at least up to 1.65. *Does anyone know if a DRAM voltage setting that's too low can cause CPU voltage ("Vcore", according to OCCT) to swing?* I honestly don't know if upping it will "improve" things (i.e., allow a higher overclock for when I'm ready to try that, if ever), or even if lowering it to 1.4 is actually helping.
> 
> So, to the extent that I can add any data to this thread, it would be that for my memory, the 4x8GB sticks, my timings allow my setup to work. Now, having said that, the Corsair site lists this memory as "Dual Channel": Corsair XMS3 CMX16GX3M2A1600C11. I'm not sure what this means, and I'm worried that it might mean that 4 sticks of this stuff were never meant to be used together. I base that off the specs from a better Corsair product: Corsair Vengence Extreme, which explicitly state "Dual / Quad Channel". It makes me suspect that there might be some difference. (Info under "Tech Specs".)
> 
> @DEUSXXX - I'm pretty confused by your conclusion that running DRAM at 1.5 V (instead of 1.65 V) causes less power to go through the IMC. I'm definitely not saying you're wrong; I'm just trying to figure out 1) how you measured that, and 2) if this means that DRAM voltage is somehow "pushes" through to the CPU/NB (since you speculated that lower DRAM voltages might stabilize the IMC).
> 
> I'm just having a hard time seeing why DRAM voltage would affect the IMC. From my admittedly sketchy guesses, it would seem that simply using 4 sticks--as you were and as I current am--is what's increasing the current to the IMC (more stuff to control, more current flowing). When you measured the power through the IMC, was after changing settings? Or dropping down to 2 sticks?
> 
> And, you end with this:
> What did you mean when you said "to have acceptable CPU/NB voltage"? Do you mean that increasing RAM speed requires a concomitant increase to CPU/NB voltage, so it was necessary to drop RAM speed to keep CPU/NB voltages from hurting the OC (by increasing the thermal load)...?
> 
> As for my own problem...To the extent my "problem" is these Vcore swings, I'm not sure which part of the chain (CPU/NB/IMC/DRAM) should be adjusted--or if the Vcore swings are even an issue (the system produces correct results, but maybe I'm frying my CPU/RAM?).
> 
> So, maybe going down to a DRAM Voltage of 1.4 V was unnecessary...I can see spending the next long-weekend doing some more tests.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still interested to see if it's possible to somehow get my Vcore to be flat under Prime95 Blend load. It takes so long to figure out which knobs to turn and now to turn them...No conclusions here, yet.
> 
> Which is all to say...I realize I'm probably confusing many issues here, so thank you all for all the work you've put into this thread to help a nubsicle like me get even a modest overclock!






Thanks for the explenation for your choice. I was concerned about at which point it was required to increase the DRAM Current Capacity. You're right though, if it helps - then just do it. I'll update the guide to include this as there's no ill effect in having it higher, just the same as CPU and CPU/NB.

DRAM Voltage - It's effect on the IMC is due to the DRAM voltage also being the signalling voltage to the IMC. That's how it causes strain to the IMC. Same with more DIMMS and higher capacity Modules (1GB, 2GB,4GB,8GB etc)
Increasing the CPU/NB voltage helps keep the IMC stable while running outside of it's normal range (4x4GB DIMMS @ 1600Mhz 1.5v or 2x4GB DIMMS @ 1866Mhz)
But also increases the CPU thermals, and reduces the max stable overclock.

That's why you see Competitive Overclockers (Liquid Nitrogen etc) run with a single ram module at it's lowest spec and voltage.


----------



## DeusXXX

Tighter ram timings and speed require more power delivered to ram.
If the cpu is oced then the imc needs more power too, in order to keep up
with increased ram performance. If the timings are too tight and/or ram speed
too high even not oced cpu's might need imc voltage increase. The highest
the amount of memory capacity and memory modules the more power is needed.
All the above with the exception of someone lucky with very efficient/tolerant equipement.
This is my collective experience from oc'ing different platforms along the years.

From what info i have gathered the imc is controlling/regulating the current that
powers ram modules. So decreasing or at least trying to keep dram voltage as
low as possible seems to be less stressing for the imc which in return might improve stability.
In my case it did. I have no means to measure that but i tried the exact same settings
(timings/speed/cpu multi.. everytinhg) with only dram voltage changed at 1.8v.
My pc hanged after first ibt run, not to mention prime95....
So my assumption (please not a speculation) might be right.

One other thing i have noticed is that the general rule of overvolting a bit, finding stability
and then lowering voltages till stability is lost is not applied very well with piledrivers or
at least with mine. To be more specific: with 1.34 cpu/nb i am stable at 4.4. Just an increment
increase (around 0.009) and stability is lost although the temps are well within specs.
Increasing speed at 4.5ghz , cpu voltage one increment and cpu/nb voltage four increments (around 1.4v)
stable again! So although ~1.349 is well inside the ''stable spectrum'' it has to be paired with the
appropriate speed. Strange...

Trying to oc my cpu with only 2 ram modules takes me well away from these insane voltages
and the whole process is more or less simple like others have posted in this beautifull quide.

p.s. too low dram voltage even if not hurting stability might hurt performance.
your power swings are always below the central line, always above the central
line or just erratic?
p.s.2 unless i am terribly mistaken there is no way in hell to have 1T with four modules.
try tightening the other timers.


----------



## DeusXXX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> Thanks for the explenation for your choice. I was concerned about at which point it was required to increase the DRAM Current Capacity. You're right though, if it helps - then just do it. I'll update the guide to include this as there's no ill effect in having it higher, just the same as CPU and CPU/NB.
> 
> DRAM Voltage - It's effect on the IMC is due to the DRAM voltage also being the signalling voltage to the IMC. That's how it causes strain to the IMC. Same with more DIMMS and higher capacity Modules (1GB, 2GB,4GB,8GB etc)
> Increasing the CPU/NB voltage helps keep the IMC stable while running outside of it's normal range (4x4GB DIMMS @ 1600Mhz 1.5v or 2x4GB DIMMS @ 1866Mhz)
> But also increases the CPU thermals, and reduces the max stable overclock.
> 
> That's why you see Competitive Overclockers (Liquid Nitrogen etc) run with a single ram module at it's lowest spec and voltage.


^^^the expert gave a much better explanation about the imc


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> ^^^the expert gave a much better explanation about the imc


Thanks Deus
I was going to say the same thing about your explanation. I get the feeling you've been Overclocking much much longer than me.
Quote:


> One other thing i have noticed is that the general rule of overvolting a bit, finding stability
> and then lowering voltages till stability is lost is not applied very well with piledrivers


You're exactly right. With good water cooling you can brute force the OC on these into the 4.8-5.0Ghz range and then tweak from there, but on normal cooling it's not really an option. But there is a large difference in performance at those frequencies between a brute forced OC and a fine tuned one. Some of the OCs at 5.0Ghz only have similar performance to 4.6Ghz because they're just that picky.
(other than the ones running 5.0Ghz on air that are just throttling)


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Thanks Deus
> I was going to say the same thing about your explanation. I get the feeling you've been Overclocking much much longer than me.
> You're exactly right. With good water cooling you can brute force the OC on these into the 4.8-5.0Ghz range and then tweak from there, but on normal cooling it's not really an option. But there is a large difference in performance at those frequencies between a brute forced OC and a fine tuned one. Some of the OCs at 5.0Ghz only have similar performance to 4.6Ghz because they're just that picky.
> (other than the ones running 5.0Ghz on air that are just throttling)


I can hit 24 hours prime95 stable at 4.8ghz with my 6300 on the evo r2.0 with 2x4gb gskills @1600mhz 9-9-9-24 1t 1.5v on air with the thermalright sb-e extreme cooler, doesnt seem to throttle but then how would i find out?

Also i cant get any higher than 4.8 without errors in p95 not even with 1.55v vcore.... maybe the 6+2 phase digi vrm's on these boards arent quite up to hitting the 5ghz or my chip just doesnt like me haha


----------



## Qrux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeusXXX*
> 
> Tighter ram timings and speed require more power delivered to ram.
> If the cpu is oced then the imc needs more power too, in order to keep up
> with increased ram performance. If the timings are too tight and/or ram speed
> too high even not oced cpu's might need imc voltage increase. The highest
> the amount of memory capacity and memory modules the more power is needed.
> All the above with the exception of someone lucky with very efficient/tolerant equipement.
> This is my collective experience from oc'ing different platforms along the years.
> 
> From what info i have gathered the imc is controlling/regulating the current that
> powers ram modules. So decreasing or at least trying to keep dram voltage as
> low as possible seems to be less stressing for the imc which in return might improve stability.
> In my case it did. I have no means to measure that but i tried the exact same settings
> (timings/speed/cpu multi.. everytinhg) with only dram voltage changed at 1.8v.
> My pc hanged after first ibt run, not to mention prime95....
> So my assumption (please not a speculation) might be right.
> 
> One other thing i have noticed is that the general rule of overvolting a bit, finding stability
> and then lowering voltages till stability is lost is not applied very well with piledrivers or
> at least with mine. To be more specific: with 1.34 cpu/nb i am stable at 4.4. Just an increment
> increase (around 0.009) and stability is lost although the temps are well within specs.
> Increasing speed at 4.5ghz , cpu voltage one increment and cpu/nb voltage four increments (around 1.4v)
> stable again! So although ~1.349 is well inside the ''stable spectrum'' it has to be paired with the
> appropriate speed. Strange...
> 
> Trying to oc my cpu with only 2 ram modules takes me well away from these insane voltages
> and the whole process is more or less simple like others have posted in this beautifull quide.
> 
> p.s. too low dram voltage even if not hurting stability might hurt performance.
> your power swings are always below the central line, always above the central
> line or just erratic?
> p.s.2 unless i am terribly mistaken there is no way in hell to have 1T with four modules.
> try tightening the other timers.


I have a new data point...Keeping everything else the same except DRAM Voltage, I bumped it from 1.4 V to 1.5 V. I was only able to run Blend (75%) for 9.5 hours before a core failed. I'm putting it back to 1.4 V, and running the Prime95 again. I hope I'll see greater-than-12-hour stability I had the last time I ran it at 1.4 V. Here's hoping for consistency (I'm only at 2 hours now...)

On a related note (seems all is related), my CPU/NB Voltage is at the low end of the recommended settings: 1.25 V. At this point, I'm having trouble understanding the relationships between settings. The feeling is that there a lot of knobs that can be turned, and turning some seems to require (or strongly suggest) turning others.

BTW, I found this reference:

Understanding All Voltage Configurations from the Motherboard

which is perfect for someone like me who doesn't know much about the electronics. It at least helps me know to which physical components the settings refer.

I'm surprised that upping the DRAM voltage (from 1.4 to 1.5) would make Blend more unstable. It certainly lends credence to the theory that DRAM voltage contributes to IMC stress. So, if upping DRAM Voltage increases IMC stress, is there a knob to turn that mitigates that stress? Would that be increasing CPU/NB Voltage?

@DeusXXX - I'm not surprised that 1.8 V DRAM wouldn't function well. That's near the JEDEC spec for max-voltage-before-damage, and there's no guarantee that it will function at that voltage. AFAIK, DDR3 is spec'ed between 1.5 and 1.65 V (unlike DDR2, which used much higher voltages, like 2.5). So, lower than 1.8 is definitely better, though that may not be an IMC issue; that may simply be that the DRAM is working well outside of spec?

Regarding my voltage swings...It's hard to say whether I'm seeing "droops" or "spikes". For example, right now, OCCT reports that Vcore spends a lot of time at 1.356 V, and "spikes" to 1.368 V. And, that is the common pattern. Though, it's hard to figure out if these are "long droops" or "short spikes". It does drop to 1.34, but that seems very infrequent--HAHA--nevermind, at this exact moment, I see "droops" now from 1.356 to 1.342.

Just for the record, I'm not trying to OC my memory...I'm just wondering if the voltages swings are hurting anything. If not, then I won't be concerned by it.

Finally, I'll post back after 12 hours of Blend (or sooner, if it fails).

*TL;DR - Preliminarily, it seems that DRAM at 1.4 V helped Blend stability*, at least on my 4-sticks-of-8GB of 1600 manually-clocked memory.


----------



## Qrux

Yep.

*While perhaps not 100% scientifically rigorous, after dropping DRAM Voltage to 1.4 V* (down from 1.5 V, which saw a single core failure after 9.5 hours), *I successfully completed another 12+ hour run of Prime95 Blend (75%).*

That's 2 Blend runs at 75% with DRAM Voltage at 1.4 V that exceeded 12 hours, and 1 Blend run at 95% with DRAM Voltage at 1.5 V that failed at 9.5 hours. And that's using *4 sticks (4x8GB) at DDR3-1600, 11-11-11-30-2T*.

So, I'm going to call it--"myth confirmed".

Seems pretty clear that the DRAM voltage drop helps stability...However, I'm curious about something...Seems like I'm using *exactly* 75% of RAM (I type in 24576 MB into the "Custom" Blend memory-usage). What is the likelihood that running Blend is only exercising 3 sticks? And therefore not pushing *ALL* the RAM? I don't think it's too likely, because, with the OS, running Blend was using up to 26.7 GB. But, I think it's probably better to intentionally stress as much memory as possible.

I'll run another test with 28 GB (87.5% mem) for Prime95 (28672 MB in Custom)...

Oh--on a totally different note...*For those who don't have cases that have a "DirectKey" button, it's simple to wire the Reset button into the DirectKey pins on the mobo.* That was a HUGE, HUGE timesaver.









After connecting the Reset button that way, *with the ASUS drivers installed (I'm using Win 7 Ultimate), it was as simple as pushing the newly-wired Reset button to get the system to shutdown. Then, a second press would boot directly into BIOS config.* SO MUCH BETTER than having to press F8 a million times during boot. I'm sure this is old-hat to all the veteran OC'ers out there, but in case anyone is new to the process, this is a wonderful feature on the ASUS mobos. Especially since I rarely use the Reset button.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qrux*
> 
> It certainly lends credence to the theory that DRAM voltage contributes to IMC stress. So, if upping DRAM Voltage increases IMC stress, is there a knob to turn that mitigates that stress? Would that be increasing CPU/NB Voltage?


Thanks for all your further testing.

As for your question here. That's exactly right. To break it down it looks like this.

DRAM increase from stock -> Increase CPU/NB votlage -> Increases CPU thermals

It'd be interesting to know how much you need to increase your CPU/NB voltage to either run at the normal 1.5v and/or tighten the timings on your ram. Or even try to overclock your ram. Apparently you can run it up to 1.5v and at stock it's usually around 1.18v.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qrux*
> 
> Yep.
> 
> *While perhaps not 100% scientifically rigorous, after dropping DRAM Voltage to 1.4 V* (down from 1.5 V, which saw a single core failure after 9.5 hours), *I successfully completed another 12+ hour run of Prime95 Blend (75%).*
> 
> That's 2 Blend runs at 75% with DRAM Voltage at 1.4 V that exceeded 12 hours, and 1 Blend run at 95% with DRAM Voltage at 1.5 V that failed at 9.5 hours. And that's using *4 sticks (4x8GB) at DDR3-1600, 11-11-11-30-2T*.
> 
> So, I'm going to call it--"myth confirmed".
> 
> Seems pretty clear that the DRAM voltage drop helps stability...However, I'm curious about something...Seems like I'm using *exactly* 75% of RAM (I type in 24576 MB into the "Custom" Blend memory-usage). What is the likelihood that running Blend is only exercising 3 sticks? And therefore not pushing *ALL* the RAM? I don't think it's too likely, because, with the OS, running Blend was using up to 26.7 GB. But, I think it's probably better to intentionally stress as much memory as possible.
> 
> I'll run another test with 28 GB (87.5% mem) for Prime95 (28672 MB in Custom)...
> 
> Oh--on a totally different note...*For those who don't have cases that have a "DirectKey" button, it's simple to wire the Reset button into the DirectKey pins on the mobo.* That was a HUGE, HUGE timesaver.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After connecting the Reset button that way, *with the ASUS drivers installed (I'm using Win 7 Ultimate), it was as simple as pushing the newly-wired Reset button to get the system to shutdown. Then, a second press would boot directly into BIOS config.* SO MUCH BETTER than having to press F8 a million times during boot. I'm sure this is old-hat to all the veteran OC'ers out there, but in case anyone is new to the process, this is a wonderful feature on the ASUS mobos. Especially since I rarely use the Reset button.


Theres also direct bios on the disc that came with it, a desktop icon so you dont have to hardwire the reset button lol also with you populating all 4 ram slots you are adding strain to the imc so using stock 1.5v and stick timings for your ram you will see a core or two fail in prime95 and anything above 16gb is hardly ever going to be used in everyday use or gaming, unless you have a reason for using 32gb ram?


----------



## Qbiz4man

Watching this thread continues to be very interesting. I have been completely stable in all tests 12+ hours each test @ 4000 stock volts (1.368)

So I was doing some comparison testing running SuperPi mod v1.5 while I expected Piledriver to lag the old Phenom II X4 BE chips in single threaded performance, the results surprised me

at 3.6 a 4 core Thuban on a modern DDR3 1600 box slightly beat my old 955BE also running at 3.6 but on an old DDR2 800 box. My 6300 running at 4000 with DDR3 1866 was trounced! (approx 4M score 1.049 v 1.051 v *2.07*) Holy crap!







. I played with a software overclock (using the excellent AI SUITE II tools), and did not regain the lead until 4500.

Based on test results I knew a stock 980BE (3.7) trounced a FX6300 in single thread performance, but would have thought by 4000 -4100 it would have caught up (especially give the FX platform's faster memory.

This in line with what others have seen?

Guess I am going to have to take it up a bit, to at least 4200 -4300


----------



## Qrux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Theres also direct bios on the disc that came with it, a desktop icon so you dont have to hardwire the reset button lol also with you populating all 4 ram slots you are adding strain to the imc so using stock 1.5v and stick timings for your ram you will see a core or two fail in prime95 and anything above 16gb is hardly ever going to be used in everyday use or gaming, unless you have a reason for using 32gb ram?


@amd-pcmarlow:

Thanks! I didn't know about the utility that adds a direct-reboot-to-BIOS Icon. That sounds quite nice. But, wiring it to a physical button has other benefits. Namely, *I don't typically run Windows.* In fact, the only time I'm on it (with this machine) is for initial-build stability testing. *Linux doesn't always have drivers for the newest sensors*, so while I can run Prime95, *it can be impossible to monitor voltages & temps at the same time*. So, as much as it pains me to say, it's just easier to do it in Windows.

So, when I'm booting my custom Linux box, it's a bit of a bother to hit DEL/F8. It's nice to do a "shutdown -h now" at the command line, and then press the Reset button (which is to say, there aren't Linux drivers for the ASUS mobo).

I do realize that having 4 sticks works the system harder than 2 or 1. The question for me was which knobs need to be turned. What was interesting to me was that turning DRAM Voltage DOWN was the key, not up. Maybe that's old news to a lot of folks, but it seemed like there was only one post (by DeusXXX) which discussed how to work with more than 1 or 2 sticks, so it seemed like my data would be helpful (since, as you pointed out, a lot of folks probably don't run with more than 16 GB for everyday use).

And, the reason I cared in the first place is because my use is probably not what most would consider "everyday". I write software, and I have source code compilations that used to take more than 15 hours at a time. Having a faster dev box makes a lot of difference. I mount entire filesystems with gigabytes of source code into RAM, to remove slow disk I/Os from the equation. And, every once in a while, I work with some large datasets that are faster to load into memory. Large production systems have anywhere from 32 GB to 512 GB of RAM; this is just a small dev machine to do some basic tests on.

Having said that, fundamentally, this is more of a learning exercise for me. I don't OC my production machines, and I do my (light) gaming at stock (and use 8-year-old graphics cards). The most significant part of this for me, since it's my first OC, is to learn new things, for which this thread has been a wonderful resource. I'm happy just contributing a data point or two!

@ComputerRestore:

I'm now curious about turning up CPU/NB voltage, although the main question would be: "Why?" *If the system is stable, would having new data about CPU/NB be interesting from the POV of trying to push the RAM (either through freq or timings)?
*
I'm also curious to see if it will even out Vcore during Blend--not that I even know if the swings are problematic to begin with. I'm beginning to wonder if the droops and spikes come from when Prime95 switches tests (for me, that defaults to every 15 minutes); presumably, it loads new data into memory, which is reducing FPU use (and probably changes electrical load/thermals). _*Could Vcore swings during Blend be...natural?*_


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qrux*
> 
> @ComputerRestore:
> 
> I'm now curious about turning up CPU/NB voltage, although the main question would be: "Why?" *If the system is stable, would having new data about CPU/NB be interesting from the POV of trying to push the RAM (either through freq or timings)?
> *
> I'm also curious to see if it will even out Vcore during Blend--not that I even know if the swings are problematic to begin with. I'm beginning to wonder if the droops and spikes come from when Prime95 switches tests (for me, that defaults to every 15 minutes); presumably, it loads new data into memory, which is reducing FPU use (and probably changes electrical load/thermals). _*Could Vcore swings during Blend be...natural?*_


For the CPU/NB it would be interesting from the point of both tighter timings and/or higher frequency the points being:
**How much CPU/NB voltage would it take
- to run your ram at the rated 1.5v
- to tighten the timings
- to increase your Ram frequency

***How much would this increase CPU thermals.

Unless you are intested in running your ram tighter or higher, I wouldn't worry about it though, seeing as you needed 9+ hours to see that even 1.5v had issues with stability. That's way too much time IMO to spend for a minor increase.

As for your voltage swings. It does sound like it's during the point of switching data sets. Something else about Prime95 is that it will stagger the cores to improve effeciency, so depending on how the cores are staggered you may see multiple swings during a short period before it evens out again. As long as it doesn't look like the heart beat of an extreme athlete then you're fine.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qrux*
> 
> @amd-pcmarlow:
> 
> Thanks! I didn't know about the utility that adds a direct-reboot-to-BIOS Icon. That sounds quite nice. But, wiring it to a physical button has other benefits. Namely, *I don't typically run Windows.* In fact, the only time I'm on it (with this machine) is for initial-build stability testing. *Linux doesn't always have drivers for the newest sensors*, so while I can run Prime95, *it can be impossible to monitor voltages & temps at the same time*. So, as much as it pains me to say, it's just easier to do it in Windows.
> 
> So, when I'm booting my custom Linux box, it's a bit of a bother to hit DEL/F8. It's nice to do a "shutdown -h now" at the command line, and then press the Reset button (which is to say, there aren't Linux drivers for the ASUS mobo).
> 
> I do realize that having 4 sticks works the system harder than 2 or 1. The question for me was which knobs need to be turned. What was interesting to me was that turning DRAM Voltage DOWN was the key, not up. Maybe that's old news to a lot of folks, but it seemed like there was only one post (by DeusXXX) which discussed how to work with more than 1 or 2 sticks, so it seemed like my data would be helpful (since, as you pointed out, a lot of folks probably don't run with more than 16 GB for everyday use).
> 
> And, the reason I cared in the first place is because my use is probably not what most would consider "everyday". I write software, and I have source code compilations that used to take more than 15 hours at a time. Having a faster dev box makes a lot of difference. I mount entire filesystems with gigabytes of source code into RAM, to remove slow disk I/Os from the equation. And, every once in a while, I work with some large datasets that are faster to load into memory. Large production systems have anywhere from 32 GB to 512 GB of RAM; this is just a small dev machine to do some basic tests on.
> 
> Having said that, fundamentally, this is more of a learning exercise for me. I don't OC my production machines, and I do my (light) gaming at stock (and use 8-year-old graphics cards). The most significant part of this for me, since it's my first OC, is to learn new things, for which this thread has been a wonderful resource. I'm happy just contributing a data point or two!
> 
> @ComputerRestore:
> 
> I'm now curious about turning up CPU/NB voltage, although the main question would be: "Why?" *If the system is stable, would having new data about CPU/NB be interesting from the POV of trying to push the RAM (either through freq or timings)?
> *
> I'm also curious to see if it will even out Vcore during Blend--not that I even know if the swings are problematic to begin with. I'm beginning to wonder if the droops and spikes come from when Prime95 switches tests (for me, that defaults to every 15 minutes); presumably, it loads new data into memory, which is reducing FPU use (and probably changes electrical load/thermals). _*Could Vcore swings during Blend be...natural?*_


Well that cleared the ram up, nice one


----------



## saucyracer

The only reason I just joined overclock.net was to vote yes on your poll. Really good overclock guide, planning to buy a FX-63XX and I feel this will help immensely. Thank you.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saucyracer*
> 
> The only reason I just joined overclock.net was to vote yes on your poll. Really good overclock guide, planning to buy a FX-63XX and I feel this will help immensely. Thank you.


Wow, thanks. These are great processors and I'm sure you'll be happy with one. If you have any questions before you make your purchase the FX-83XX Owners Club is a great resource. That way you end up with hardware suited to your overclocking expectations.


----------



## Destrto

I had a quick question over the guide temperatures listed. Can't remember if it had been asked already. I've been hearing more and more talk about measuring Delta temps, as opposed to just Load temps.

My question is, the temperatures listed in your guide, are those to be Load temps? or Delta temps?

For anybody that doesn't know, Delta temp is your Ambient temp subtracted from your Load temp. And although I'm not entirely read up on the significance of knowing this Delta temp, my guess is that it is the actual (or more accurate, maybe?) reading of the CPU temperature?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I had a quick question over the guide temperatures listed. Can't remember if it had been asked already. I've been hearing more and more talk about measuring Delta temps, as opposed to just Load temps.
> 
> My question is, the temperatures listed in your guide, are those to be Load temps? or Delta temps?
> 
> For anybody that doesn't know, Delta temp is your Ambient temp subtracted from your Load temp. And although I'm not entirely read up on the significance of knowing this Delta temp, my guess is that it is the actual (or more accurate, maybe?) reading of the CPU temperature?


The temps for these are pretty much just what is shown.

Package/Core is only accurate under load or near 62C

The Socket Temp is pretty accurate all the time.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> The temps for these are pretty much just what is shown.
> 
> Package/Core is only accurate under load or near 62C
> 
> The Socket Temp is pretty accurate all the time.


OK, just wanted to make sure. A lot of places i've been reading are talking more and more about Delta temps lately, so it made me curious.


----------



## Majorhi

This guide as been an absolute gem. Great work! I've used it to get my old FX4100 up to 4.5 24/7 stable and just last week got my 8350 up to 4.5 24/7 stable and up to 5 experimentally*. I'm waiting for some funds to become available to pick up one of those nice Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL.

* = I don't have adequate cooling to do intense stress testing.


----------



## StryckNyne

Joined this forum so i can just say, This guide is fantastic! Followed all the directions, everything looking good. Left the 8350 clocked at 4.5Ghz @ 1.38v till i open some space and send more air onto the socket and VRM's, and the back side as well. Once thats taken care of ill tweak it farther.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StryckNyne*
> 
> Joined this forum so i can just say, This guide is fantastic! Followed all the directions, everything looking good. Left the 8350 clocked at 4.5Ghz @ 1.38v till i open some space and send more air onto the socket and VRM's, and the back side as well. Once thats taken care of ill tweak it farther.


Thanks very much. That's a great starting point. These Chips run super cool and stable in the 4.5-4.6Ghz range. The fun really starts going past that. Good luck and great OCing.


----------



## MrPerforations

hello people,
just wondering if the 220 watt mobo's that are coming would enable us to clock are cpu's higher from the higher wattage please?
I could do with a better mobo with 8+ vrm or even a 16 and a 6300 to go in this 6+2 vrm mobo.


----------



## nz3777

Was wondering if you guys can give me some tips- I have my fx 6100 oc to 4.2 almost my cpu voltage is at 1.44375 ( temps are low ) do I need to increase cpu/nb voltage as well? Vdda voltage iam not sure what that does exactly, Nb ht voltage as well,Sb voltage should I mess with that or no? And finally Nb 1.8v voltage should this be increased as well? Running stock 16.5 multiplier


----------



## StryckNyne

The FX-8350 clocked well to 4.5Ghz @ 1.38v, which was stock voltage according to my Mobo. So after ripping out the cd-rom, moved my Kuhler 920 into the drive bay there for intake instead of exhaust, got some double sided foam tape and stuck a fan on the VRM's and another on the rear of the Mobo to cool the socket. Temps are nice and stable now. Clock up the FX-8350 to 4.7Ghz using multi again (x23.5) @ 1.416v, ran Prime95 for 30 minutes small FFT's, and IntelBurn for 30minutes on Very High setting, both passed. So now can i use FSB to try and reach 5ghz? cause at the current settings it is hitting at 60c under stress on the CPU, and socket around 65c (cant fully remember), i understand i'll have to adjust cpu/nb freq and ht freq to get around 2200-2400. just wondering about adjusting some volts somewhere to stabilize the FSB if i go there.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StryckNyne*
> 
> The FX-8350 clocked well to 4.5Ghz @ 1.38v, which was stock voltage according to my Mobo. So after ripping out the cd-rom, moved my Kuhler 920 into the drive bay there for intake instead of exhaust, got some double sided foam tape and stuck a fan on the VRM's and another on the rear of the Mobo to cool the socket. Temps are nice and stable now. Clock up the FX-8350 to 4.7Ghz using multi again (x23.5) @ 1.416v, ran Prime95 for 30 minutes small FFT's, and IntelBurn for 30minutes on Very High setting, both passed. So now can i use FSB to try and reach 5ghz? cause at the current settings it is hitting at 60c under stress on the CPU, and socket around 65c (cant fully remember), i understand i'll have to adjust cpu/nb freq and ht freq to get around 2200-2400. just wondering about adjusting some volts somewhere to stabilize the FSB if i go there.


If you want to get 5.0Ghz you could still just bump up the multi some more. If you want to use the FSB, you can just reduce the CPU/NB and HTT multipliers to keep it around stock settings.

You are pretty well at your limit with 4.7Ghz for temps while stressing. Looks like you have a very good CPU if you are stable at those voltages and with such low temps. Usually low VID chips are like nuclear reactors lol.


----------



## madorax

i just want to confirm.



based on this pic. CPU sensor that actually read by my Ai Suite sensor is a CPU temp in HW monitor which is a *Socket temp*. (58c on pic) am i correct? and the limit is not 62c but 70c right?

so the one i should care of is the package temp in the HW monitor which is my real CPU temp (max 62c)? is this correct? (42c on pic)


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> i just want to confirm,
> based on this pic. CPU sensor that actually read by my Ai Suite sensor is a CPU temp in HW monitor which is a *Socket temp*. (58c on pic) am i correct? and the limit is not 62c but 70c right?
> 
> so the one i should care of is the package temp in the HW monitor which is my real CPU temp (max 62c)? is this correct? (42c on pic)


You got it


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> You got it


so why this ai suite not read the "true" cpu speed? if the limit is 70c why this app always give warning in 62c? which is succeed fooling me for the past 4 weeks since i buy this board & 8320...

so until before you confirm, i think the cpu temp on the ai suite IS the cpu temp with 62c MAX... not the socket temp with 70c max... ~__~


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> so why this ai suite not read the "true" cpu speed? if the limit is 70c why this app always give warning in 62c? which is succeed fooling me for the past 4 weeks since i buy this board & 8320...
> 
> so until before you confirm, i think the cpu temp on the ai suite IS the cpu temp with 62c MAX... not the socket temp with 70c max... ~__~


The AI temp is the socket temp. Just run both the sensor program and CPU HW monitor and you can see.


----------



## xSneak

Hi computerrestore, I just wanted to say I followed your guide when initially overclocking and ran into an issue i had to figure out on my own.

I couldn't get prime95 blend to pass no matter what i did to my nb voltage, imc voltage, dram settings; I spent a ton of hours trying to figure out what was wrong with the computer i had built.

Only when I increased the cpu's vcore did it stabilize.

My 8320 is at 4.5Ghz and 1.512 Vcore now.


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, quick request. Anyone who has positioned a fan to the rear of their motherboard, to help cool the VRM area, happen to have a picture of how they mounted it? I'm trying to figure out the best way to get a fan back there, but would like to see some of the ideas you guys have chosen to go with.

Rear as in, behind the motherboard tray.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Hey guys, quick request. Anyone who has positioned a fan to the rear of their motherboard, to help cool the VRM area, happen to have a picture of how they mounted it? I'm trying to figure out the best way to get a fan back there, but would like to see some of the ideas you guys have chosen to go with.
> 
> Rear as in, behind the motherboard tray.





Spoiler: Socket Fan







Here's how I did mine. I'd recommend cutting the hole from the inside so you don't scratch the outside all up. You have to measure the fan placement so that it will fit inside the socket cutout when the panel is slid on. I also had to shave about 1/8" off the fan so it would fit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xSneak*
> 
> Hi computerrestore, I just wanted to say I followed your guide when initially overclocking and ran into an issue i had to figure out on my own.
> 
> I couldn't get prime95 blend to pass no matter what i did to my nb voltage, imc voltage, dram settings; I spent a ton of hours trying to figure out what was wrong with the computer i had built.
> 
> Only when I increased the cpu's vcore did it stabilize.
> 
> My 8320 is at 4.5Ghz and 1.512 Vcore now.


That's great you were able to get stability. Your voltage does seem very high for 4.5Ghz. I hope you were able to properly follow my guide, because after setting the recommended settings, the rest of the steps consist of increasing the cpu voltage and cpu ratio.


----------



## madorax

@ComputerRestore

Man... your tip is suuuupeeeeeerrrr... i run on 4.3 now... still with default volt!!! (1.375. 1225. LLC enabled).

i'll try to get higher later.... so happy right now


----------



## Destrto

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Socket Fan
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's how I did mine. I'd recommend cutting the hole from the inside so you don't scratch the outside all up. You have to measure the fan placement so that it will fit inside the socket cutout when the panel is slid on. I also had to shave about 1/8" off the fan so it would fit.
> That's great you were able to get stability. Your voltage does seem very high for 4.5Ghz. I hope you were able to properly follow my guide, because after setting the recommended settings, the rest of the steps consist of increasing the cpu voltage and cpu ratio.






Thanks for the visual. I planned on using one of my old 70mm CPU fans that is pretty slim, in the 500r I can fit it behind there without a few MM to spare, since it has that extra recess at the rear.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> 
> Thanks for the visual. I planned on using one of my old 70mm CPU fans that is pretty slim, in the 500r I can fit it behind there without a few MM to spare, since it has that extra recess at the rear.


Yeah, that's a good idea. Definately don't have to go for a 120MM like I did. If I do another one, it'll be smaller.

@ Madorax

That looks much better. Glad to help.


----------



## Destrto

Just trying to figure out any possible alternatives to drilling a hole in my side panel.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Just trying to figure out any possible alternatives to drilling a hole in my side panel.


Lol, I wouldn't be jumping at the opportunity to drill a hole in my 500R, if I had one, either.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Lol, I wouldn't be jumping at the opportunity to drill a hole in my 500R, if I had one, either.


Haha not yet anyway. I'm trying to think of some type of bracket I could use to maybe tape it with double sided foam tape? Not sure, as I'm out of spare CPU heatsink brackets.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Haha not yet anyway. I'm trying to think of some type of bracket I could use to maybe tape it with double sided foam tape? Not sure, as I'm out of spare CPU heatsink brackets.


Probably thick foam tape would let you stick it right to the socket. Just a couple of thin strips on either side of the fan.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Probably thick foam tape would let you stick it right to the socket. Just a couple of thin strips on either side of the fan.


I'm leaning towards that option. I have some extra foam tape I can use. I was thinking of cutting little squares and placing them at each corner of the fan.


----------



## madorax

i manage to get 4.5Ghz stable with only 3 step up from default vcore & cpu-nb volt (1.375 to 1.39XX) with LLC enabled. pass OCCT 5 minute test. & 15 minutes on SmallFFT Prime without dropping core.
question is... if that considering stable why the system freeze if i'm running vantage? not under test, but only after i click the icon it will freeze. in 3DM 2006, 3DM 2011, & 3DM 2013 all is well, nothing problem.
is this maybe the problem within the vantage itself? but if i turn the LLC to disabled. set my volt high (example 1.46) i can run vantage normally and pass the bench, but of course fail in OCCT & Prime. weird...


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> i manage to get 4.5Ghz stable with only 3 step up from default vcore & cpu-nb volt (1.375 to 1.39XX) with LLC enabled. pass OCCT 5 minute test. & 15 minutes on SmallFFT Prime without dropping core.
> question is... if that considering stable why the system freeze if i'm running vantage? not under test, but only after i click the icon it will freeze. in 3DM 2006, 3DM 2011, & 3DM 2013 all is well, nothing problem.
> is this maybe the problem within the vantage itself? but if i turn the LLC to disabled. set my volt high (example 1.46) i can run vantage normally and pass the bench, but of course fail in OCCT & Prime. weird...


So as soon as you click the icon to run Vantage it will freeze? Or it will run the test fine, but then freeze when you click to see your results after?

Maybe try increasing the DRAM or the CPU/NB voltage a little bit. It sounds like a ram/IMC issue. Hopefully that helps.


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> So as soon as you click the icon to run Vantage it will freeze? Or it will run the test fine, but then freeze when you click to see your results after?
> 
> Maybe try increasing the DRAM or the CPU/NB voltage a little bit. It sounds like a ram/IMC issue. Hopefully that helps.


it freeze as soon vantage load up (the window open, not even complete, and freeze).
i notice 2nd problem which is crucial to me. when i stream from youtube it will freeze to for about 10 second after play. no matter what video dan what quality i play. try both firefox, chrome, & even internet explorer.

give more volt to CPU-NB & even NB volt wont help, any other solution?

the only solution i had right now is set clock to 4200 (with this i still can run without add volt, still default volt) and even if i set NB @ 2400 the stream will play without freeze.... what is wrong in here.... duh


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> it freeze as soon vantage load up (the window open, not even complete, and freeze).
> i notice 2nd problem which is crucial to me. when i stream from youtube it will freeze to for about 10 second after play. no matter what video dan what quality i play. try both firefox, chrome, & even internet explorer.
> 
> give more volt to CPU-NB & even NB volt wont help, any other solution?
> 
> the only solution i had right now is set clock to 4200 (with this i still can run without add volt, still default volt) and even if i set NB @ 2400 the stream will play without freeze.... what is wrong in here.... duh


Did you try increasing or decreasing the DRAM voltage?

The only other thing I can think of is that the LLC function is not reacting fast enough. That's the most common issue on the M5A97 boards.
If it is, you might be able to fix it by turning off HPC mode. It might throttle if the VRM's get too hot, but it should prevent it from freezing.


----------



## CannedBullets

Hey guys, if I ever add 8 GBs of memory to get 16 GBs of RAM. Would I have to redo my overclock if the new RAM had a different speed (DDRs-1866) and different timings? I might upgrade my motherboard and CPU cooler to an Asus 990FX Sabertooth R2 and a Corsair H80i to go for a 4.5 ghz overclock on my FX-6300.


----------



## timisyourfriend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Hey guys, if I ever add 8 GBs of memory to get 16 GBs of RAM. Would I have to redo my overclock if the new RAM had a different speed (DDRs-1866) and different timings? I might upgrade my motherboard and CPU cooler to an Asus 990FX Sabertooth R2 and a Corsair H80i to go for a 4.5 ghz overclock on my FX-6300.


Of course, first you need to test and see whether the two kits can even work together in the same computer. If they can at DDR3-1600, then you can attempt DDR3-1866. You will be overclocking the original DDR3-1600, or downclocking the new DDR3-1866, but either way the first concern is whether they can match properly to be stable at any frequency/timing.

Cheers


----------



## Majorhi

So it looks like I can only get up to 4.6 stable with my 8350 on my M5A99x evo board. I get 4.6 @ 1.42v and 24/7 stable. I cannot for the life of me get to 4.7 stable. I went all the way up to 1.51v still no joy getting prime 95 to run for ten minutes. I bumped it up to 1.52 volts but then the system failed to boot. I used your exact settings as prescribed. So now I settle with 4.6 with the turbo up to 4.85. with the 19.5x237 setting.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timisyourfriend*
> 
> Of course, first you need to test and see whether the two kits can even work together in the same computer. If they can at DDR3-1600, then you can attempt DDR3-1866. You will be overclocking the original DDR3-1600, or downclocking the new DDR3-1866, but either way the first concern is whether they can match properly to be stable at any frequency/timing.
> 
> Cheers


But if I'm using the same RAM and I just add two more sticks to get 16 GB of RAM it should be fine?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> So it looks like I can only get up to 4.6 stable with my 8350 on my M5A99x evo board. I get 4.6 @ 1.42v and 24/7 stable. I cannot for the life of me get to 4.7 stable.


That seems to be about the limit of those boards. I squeezed 4.7Ghz out of mine, but even 4.72 would fail. I think it's just the limit of stable VRM operation.


----------



## StryckNyne

Well, i dont know if i can actually call it progress but here goes. After following your instructions and doing everything with laser like precision (following the guide) i clocked my FX-8350 @ 4.7ghz stable with 1.416v and intelburn and prime stable for at least 30 minutes on boths, small FFT for prime, and very high settings with intel burn. So the goal was to get 5ghz.. The day before i got a new case, the Rosewill Black Ultra Supertower, i decided to celebrate and get a bit tipsy, woke up to find prime plugging away on small FFT's for about 5hrs! which passed btw! :O for the life of me i can not recall everything i changed, but i do recall the voltage being something like 1.482v @ x25 multi. So after hearing the banshee wail of my fans on the Kuhler 920 screaming agony, and signifigantly warmer in my room i decided to return everything to stock speeds till i can 1. get adquate power supplied to all these fans without sucking massive power from my motherboard. 2. ensure everything has air blowing on it. Hopefully this will take place over the next couple days, as i have vowed to not drink and overclock again lol. Anyhow i will try and replicate the results, and get Screenies and a CPU-Z validation. The Previous Post is #704.

Can not quite figure out how to attach my rig to this post but, here is what i got

FX-8350 running stock at the moment
Antec Kuhler H2o 920 2 x 120mm fans in push pull configuration (intake)
ASUS CrossHair V Formula -Z 990fx AM3+
Gigabyte ATI Radeon HD7950
Hitachi 1tb 7200rpm HDD
Corsair Vengeance 16gb DDR3 mem kit @ 1600mhz @ 9-9-9-24-2t timings 1.5v
Antec TruePower Quattro 1000w Modular PSU
Rosewill BlackHawk Ultra SuperTower, 3 x 230mm fans, 5 x 140mm fans, 1 x 120mm fan facing the rear of the Motherboard socket.
LG supermulti drive.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StryckNyne*
> 
> Well, i dont know if i can actually call it progress but here goes....


Very nice results.

Yes I usually only recommend drinking and OCing when using L2N. That way you can keep the beer cold in the L2N Pot lol.

Do you happen to remember the max temp after 5 hours of prime @ 5.0Ghz on that 920? I can imagine it was a bit of a buzz kill waking up to that.


----------



## StryckNyne

It was lol, 62-63c, liquid temps was pegging 45c trying to cool everything down, and socket was right at it's limit too, which was 70c i believe.


----------



## Neroy

This is my setup with Crosshair V formula-z.
TO make this accurate, here in Finland it's 30c outside and even my H100 with 4 noctua NF-F12 fans can't cool it well
Case is CM storm enforcer and nothing much to add.
Later on winter I'll try to add 200-300Mhz if the temps let me do that.


----------



## Neroy

Also the picture is little blurry but anyways core clock is 4672Mhz HT is 2600Mhz and the NB is @ 2300Mhz Memory is G.Skill sniper 2133Mhz with 11-11-11-30-1T with the exact clock at the moment.


----------



## madorax

is there any difference between m5a99x EVO with m5a99x EVO R2.0 because i think i'm gonna upgrade my board to this.
can't buy sabertooth because no stock here in Indonesia.

if there's no significant difference between booth of them i'm going for the cheaper one (EVO R1.0) ^^


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neroy*
> 
> 
> 
> This is my setup with Crosshair V formula-z.
> TO make this accurate, here in Finland it's 30c outside and even my H100 with 4 noctua NF-F12 fans can't cool it well
> Case is CM storm enforcer and nothing much to add.
> Later on winter I'll try to add 200-300Mhz if the temps let me do that.


Nice Overclock. For your temps all I can see is your Socket Temps @ 62C. Your Package Temps should be a lot lower than that. So I think you still have headroom to Overclock more, even with your high Ambients.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> is there any difference between m5a99x EVO with m5a99x EVO R2.0 because i think i'm gonna upgrade my board to this.
> can't buy sabertooth because no stock here in Indonesia.
> 
> if there's no significant difference between booth of them i'm going for the cheaper one (EVO R1.0) ^^


I would go with the Evo 2.0. It has an updated power delivery system as well as seperate phases for DRAM 6+2+2 compared to 6+2.

If you can, you should wait it out for a Sabertooth. You have a pretty good CPU there, and I'm not sure you could push it much higher on the M5A99X Evo 2.0 compared to your M5A97. It would just be much easier and more stable. But possibly not higher.


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Nice Overclock. For your temps all I can see is your Socket Temps @ 62C. Your Package Temps should be a lot lower than that. So I think you still have headroom to Overclock more, even with your high Ambients.
> I would go with the Evo 2.0. It has an updated power delivery system as well as seperate phases for DRAM 6+2+2 compared to 6+2.
> 
> If you can, you should wait it out for a Sabertooth. You have a pretty good CPU there, and I'm not sure you could push it much higher on the M5A99X Evo 2.0 compared to your M5A97. It would just be much easier and more stable. But possibly not higher.


i want to, but usually if i held some money it will not last long before it's gone, so better buy something now ^^

if that's the case maybe i'm just going to M5A97 EVO R2.0 since it has All the 99x EVO R2 Feature and also had 6+2+2 phase power. since i'm not going to use SLI or anything 99x offer.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> i want to, but usually if i held some money it will not last long before it's gone, so better buy something now ^^
> 
> if that's the case maybe i'm just going to M5A97 EVO R2.0 since it has All the 99x EVO R2 Feature and also had 6+2+2 phase power. since i'm not going to use SLI or anything 99x offer.


The M5A97 Evo 2.0 still has a buggy LLC as far as I know. So definately go fo the 99X EVO 2.0


----------



## madorax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> The M5A97 Evo 2.0 still has a buggy LLC as far as I know. So definately go fo the 99X EVO 2.0


okay then. i'll give another result later after the board come ^^

PS: i'm also looking at asrock 990FX extreme 4 right now, the board is so cool and has built in fan in the vrm, and gold capasitor too. if this board still available, i'll take this one, otherwise i'll go to 99X EVO R2.0

===============================

anyway.... does the batch really mean something if you got a good oc proc? mine is an early 2013 version i guess....


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> anyway.... does the batch really mean something if you got a good oc proc? mine is an early 2013 version i guess....


Some believe that CPU's with similar batch numbers OC about the same, as they were probably made with very similar silicon.
Honestly I'm not sure how much truth is in that. But probably if you had two CPU's that came off the same wafer, then they'd probably OC similar.


----------



## Neroy

I heard that the 2.0 has pcie 3.0


----------



## CannedBullets

So if my PC restarts when I'm running Prime95 could it be a power supply issue? Because it did that a while back when I was testing out my overclock a while back, I took it as a sign that I had to raise the voltage, then I heard that it could be a RAM issue today. So could it be a RAM issue, a PSU issue, or something else?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> So if my PC restarts when I'm running Prime95 could it be a power supply issue? Because it did that a while back when I was testing out my overclock a while back, I took it as a sign that I had to raise the voltage, then I heard that it could be a RAM issue today. So could it be a RAM issue, a PSU issue, or something else?


If it just straight resets without a BSOD, it would most likely be VRM temp or current limit, CPU temp limit, or PSU.

Usually if it's a ram issue, it will either BSOD or just freeze.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> If it just straight resets without a BSOD, it would most likely be VRM temp or current limit, CPU temp limit, or PSU.
> 
> Usually if it's a ram issue, it will either BSOD or just freeze.


Definitely not a ram issue, its a power issue, whether its vrm heat, cpu voltage or not enough power from psu is a different matter but defo power related


----------



## Destrto

I do believe cannedbullets is beating a dead horse. I've talked with him at length about this already. Explained to him what he needed to know without hearing conflicting advice.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I do believe cannedbullets is beating a dead horse. I've talked with him at length about this already. Explained to him what he needed to know without hearing conflicting advice.


Yeah. Same as on other threads. Consensus is, ASRock 970 Extreme 3. Nothing wrong with ASRock, but the 970 with 4+1 Phase is not a great OCer.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Yeah. Same as on other threads. Consensus is, ASRock 970 Extreme 3. Nothing wrong with ASRock, but the 970 with 4+1 Phase is not a great OCer.


Right. I spent 2 days explaining this with him. He plans to get a better board to remedy the power problem. I advised him to also check his power supply, and possibly upgrade that.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Right. I spent 2 days explaining this with him. He plans to get a better board to remedy the power problem. I advised him to also check his power supply, and possibly upgrade that.


Yep, Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2, going to shoot for 4.5 ghz. My power supply is a Seasonic X650, the PSU I was using to test out the initial overclock was a Corsair TX-550M. Yeah on the VRM database on here it says the ASRock 970 Extreme3 throttles overclocked eight core CPUs, so maybe the same could apply to overclocked six core CPUs like my FX-6300?


----------



## aas88keyz




----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*


What, my 970 Extreme3 kept throttling no matter what setting I did.


----------



## chase11

On the trick to keep things cool part, could the op add that putting a little fan behind the mobo to cool the vrms back there can help? It just helped me by over 10 degrees. I just put a little 40mm x 40mm x 10mm fan back there....


----------



## madorax

sadly UD5 is the only board that awailable in my place right now. i don't say they bad, some say it even better than 99x EVO R2.0... i'm just wondering if i can keep asking in this thread again for advice because the board is not asus anymore


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chase11*
> 
> On the truck to keep things cool part, could the op add that putting a little fan behind the mobo to cool the vrms back there can help? It just helped me by over 10 degrees. I just put a little 40mm x 40mm x 10mm fan back there....


It is there. That info was in the OP when I first found this thread a couple months back. Was the best advice for me. I immediately installed a fan on the side panel and as you said, cooled my socket by at least 10 degrees. Stability was never better for me. Fan inside blowing directly on the VRM's was another piece of advice in the original post that helped me out.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> sadly UD5 is the only board that awailable in my place right now. i don't say they bad, some say it even better than 99x EVO R2.0... i'm just wondering if i can keep asking in this thread again for advice because the board is not asus anymore


It would be unfortunate for us to lose a poster of this thread. There is still _general_ advice that can be taken in all around overclocking but advice _specific_ to your hardware would be preferable to most. It is hard sometimes not to go off topic in certain threads such as these. If I was to answer your request on the subject of asking advice from this thread I know no one would turn you away. I would support the original poster's decision either way.


----------



## chase11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> It is there. That info was in the OP when I first found this thread a couple months back. Was the best advice for me. I immediately installed a fan on the side panel and as you said, cooled my socket by at least 10 degrees. Stability was never better for me. Fan inside blowing directly on the VRM's was another piece of advice in the original post that helped me out.










I must be tired.... i didn't read the part right under the picture


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> sadly UD5 is the only board that awailable in my place right now. i don't say they bad, some say it even better than 99x EVO R2.0... i'm just wondering if i can keep asking in this thread again for advice because the board is not asus anymore


The Overclock is very similar between boards. Feel free to ask questions, even if you get a Gigabyte. If you run into "I'm having trouble with this specific setting on my Gigabyte Board" then that's where it would probably be best to ask in another section.









Although aas88keyz already wrote a great reply, just though I'd answer too. I still watch this thread, but it's been doing very well on it's own he he.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madorax*
> 
> sadly UD5 is the only board that awailable in my place right now. i don't say they bad, some say it even better than 99x EVO R2.0... i'm just wondering if i can keep asking in this thread again for advice because the board is not asus anymore


Id be happy to help with any questions im capable of answering, the ud5 is as good if not equal to the evo r2.0, but with gigabyte options lol, most settings are the same anyway, welcome to the club man


----------



## madorax

Thanks bro ^^

i'll update with pic and early result of OC tonight


----------



## CannedBullets

Looks like the Sabertooth 990FX Gen 3 is back in stock at Newegg. Any noticeable advantage over the 990FX R2 that justifies the extra $20? It seems only difference is that it has more heatsinks, PCIe 3.0, and a CMOS battery placed in a better location.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Looks like the Sabertooth 990FX Gen 3 is back in stock at Newegg. Any noticeable advantage over the 990FX R2 that justifies the extra $20? It seems only difference is that it has more heatsinks, PCIe 3.0, and a CMOS battery placed in a better location.


The Gen 3 loses the PCI e x1 slot. Has a slightly different bus speed layout on the PCIe x16 slots.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The Gen 3 loses the PCI e x1 slot. Has a slightly different bus speed layout on the PCIe x16 slots.


Different bus speed layout? What does that mean?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Different bus speed layout? What does that mean?


The sabertooth 990fx R2.0 has a layout that follows:
PCI Express 2.0 x16 - 3(dual x16 or x16, x8, x8)
1(x4 mode, black)

990fx Gen3 R2.0 -
PCI Express 3.0/2.0 x16 - 3(dual x16 or x16, x8, x8)
1 PCIe 2.0 x16 (x16 mode, black)


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> The sabertooth 990fx R2.0 has a layout that follows:
> PCI Express 2.0 x16 - 3(dual x16 or x16, x8, x8)
> 1(x4 mode, black)
> 
> 990fx Gen3 R2.0 -
> PCI Express 3.0/2.0 x16 (dual x16 or x16, x8, x8)
> 1 PCIe 2.0 x16 (x16 mode, black)


Oh, looks like I'll just be going with the R2 then because I'm not planning any multicard setups in the future. I'll order the R2 and the H80i either this 4th of July if Newegg has sales for those or sometime next week.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Oh, looks like I'll just be going with the R2 then because I'm not planning any multicard setups in the future. I'll order the R2 and the H80i either this 4th of July if Newegg has sales for those or sometime next week.


That's a great combo imo. H80i is a fantastic cooler and the sabertooth is the second best board in my opinion, only second to the crosshair V formula Z.


----------



## doodie

Had a quick question about temperatures. I have the Asus M5A99x Evo r2.0, fx-8350 and the phanteks ‎PH-TC14PE cooler. ATM i have the cpu OC at 4.4ghz on stock voltages (1.32) and when i run prime95 my core temps are around 46-47c and my socket temp is around 64-65c. Since this guide says the max socket temp is 70c does that mean I shouldn't push it any further even though i can go a bit higher with my core temps? I plan in the future to put a fan behind the motherboard to cool the socket/vrm which should help with socket temps.

I am new to oc so any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doodie*
> 
> Had a quick question about temperatures. I have the Asus M5A99x Evo r2.0, fx-8350 and the phanteks ‎PH-TC14PE cooler. ATM i have the cpu OC at 4.4ghz on stock voltages (1.32) and when i run prime95 my core temps are around 46-47c and my socket temp is around 64-65c. Since this guide says the max socket temp is 70c does that mean I shouldn't push it any further even though i can go a bit higher with my core temps? I plan in the future to put a fan behind the motherboard to cool the socket/vrm which should help with socket temps.
> 
> I am new to oc so any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


You could probably go a bit higher. The socket temp doesn't go crazy usually until 4.7Ghz. I've seen where others have pushed 80C on the Socket without any obvious issues, but most of the Asus Boards will throttle at 72C anyways which usually results in a failed test.


----------



## FatedFrenzy

I have the same board and CPU set up but I have an H100 cooling the CPU. My CPU maxes out at 59 degrees in prime at 4.6 GHz and 1.46v.

I would look into maybe upgrading the cooler (I have no idea what you're cooler is cable of, never used it) or look into the air flow of your case. I also have a lot of room around my CPU and 5 fans in the case.


----------



## doodie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> I have the same board and CPU set up but I have an H100 cooling the CPU. My CPU maxes out at 59 degrees in prime at 4.6 GHz and 1.46v.
> 
> I would look into maybe upgrading the cooler (I have no idea what you're cooler is cable of, never used it) or look into the air flow of your case. I also have a lot of room around my CPU and 5 fans in the case.


Is that 59 degrees core temp? If so what is your socket temp like? The cooler i have is one of the top air coolers on the market. I think I need a bigger case with better air flow (have the zalman z9 plus atm). Thanks for the reply guys ill stick with a safe socket temp until i get a fan blowing on my socket.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doodie*
> 
> Had a quick question about temperatures. I have the Asus M5A99x Evo r2.0, fx-8350 and the phanteks ‎PH-TC14PE cooler. ATM i have the cpu OC at 4.4ghz on stock voltages (1.32) and when i run prime95 my core temps are around 46-47c and my socket temp is around 64-65c. Since this guide says the max socket temp is 70c does that mean I shouldn't push it any further even though i can go a bit higher with my core temps? I plan in the future to put a fan behind the motherboard to cool the socket/vrm which should help with socket temps.
> 
> I am new to oc so any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


Maybe look at getting thermalright ty-143 fans to puton your phantec cooler or in the case, they move a lot of air and will help cool that down a bit, maybe put one under the socket if you can too


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

My fx 6300 hits a little under that at full load with the thermalright sb-e extreme with 3 ty-143 fans 2 on the cooler and one drawing air into the case, i have several 80mm case fans that do a little too but nowhere near as much as the ty's


----------



## iFreeStylin

Is P95 better than OCCT? right now my CPU is at 4.5ghz with 1.45Vcore OCCT 1 hr stable. Back when i had it at 4.3ghz with 1.4VCore i can run P95 for 2hrs no problem but it wont get pass 5 min of OCCT.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Is P95 better than OCCT? right now my CPU is at 4.5ghz with 1.45Vcore OCCT 1 hr stable. Back when i had it at 4.3ghz with 1.4VCore i can run P95 for 2hrs no problem but it wont get pass 5 min of OCCT.


Some people like Prime, some like OCCT. Some people just test their system doing daily tasks to see if it will crash or not. It just depends on what you are happy with. As for Prime passing and OCCT failing, it depends on what test you were running on Prime. If it was just Small FFT, that could be a reason.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Some people like Prime, some like OCCT. Some people just test their system doing daily tasks to see if it will crash or not. It just depends on what you are happy with. As for Prime passing and OCCT failing, it depends on what test you were running on Prime. If it was just Small FFT, that could be a reason.


Yeah i was only running the small FFT. does 1.45Vcore seems high for 4.5ghz?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Yeah i was only running the small FFT. does 1.45Vcore seems high for 4.5ghz?


Hard to say. I'm not sure what CPU you have. You should fill out the rig builder in your Signature.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Yeah i was only running the small FFT. does 1.45Vcore seems high for 4.5ghz?


seems a bit high maybe...

for my 8350FX I have gotten 4.6 stable at 1.39Vcore, but I have read many cases where even professional overclockers couldn't get 4.5 to stabilize without using 1.4 or higher Vcore, a lot of that depends on your particular cpu and mainboard... not all silicone is created equal even when two of the exact same models are put side by side... for example 4 cores of mine are much stronger than the other 4 so I can disable the weaker 4 and get 5 ghz stable at only 1.41 Vcore.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hard to say. I'm not sure what CPU you have. You should fill out the rig builder in your Signature.[/quote
> 
> My bad and am using the FX 6300


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> seems a bit high maybe...
> 
> for my 8350FX I have gotten 4.6 stable at 1.39Vcore, but I have read many cases where even professional overclockers couldn't get 4.5 to stabilize without using 1.4 or higher Vcore, a lot of that depends on your particular cpu and mainboard... not all silicone is created equal even when two of the exact same models are put side by side... for example 4 cores of mine are much stronger than the other 4 so I can disable the weaker 4 and get 5 ghz stable at only 1.41 Vcore.


I had to back down to 4.2ghz with 1.4Vcore because temps getting crazy, 61C on the core when playing BF3 for a bit.


----------



## pr0k1llz

hey i was wondering if you could help me out with amd over drive for some reason i cant move the ht reference clock from 200 to anything more or less. can you help out? i read some where but didnt quite understand them but i think they said i coulnd move it without something else being increased. i need to ovc with over drive ht reference clock for a certain reason

but thank you for this ovc guide i managed to get mine to 4.8Ghz on 1.48voltage in bios


----------



## Rogrthat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doodie*
> 
> Had a quick question about temperatures. I have the Asus M5A99x Evo r2.0, fx-8350 and the phanteks ‎PH-TC14PE cooler. ATM i have the cpu OC at 4.4ghz on stock voltages (1.32) and when i run prime95 my core temps are around 46-47c and my socket temp is around 64-65c. Since this guide says the max socket temp is 70c does that mean I shouldn't push it any further even though i can go a bit higher with my core temps? I plan in the future to put a fan behind the motherboard to cool the socket/vrm which should help with socket temps.
> 
> I am new to oc so any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


As always how do you intend to cool your CPU? Also how far do you intend to push your voltages?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> I had to back down to 4.2ghz with 1.4Vcore because temps getting crazy, 61C on the core when playing BF3 for a bit.


I don't know what kind of cooling you are using, sounds like you need to get something better.... I did find something you might be interested in... this person has over 4.8 ghz at 1.464 Vcore on your exact cpu... now to be fair, like I said, all silicon is not created equal so yours may not OC so well. http://images.hardwarecanucks.com/image//skymtl/CPU/FX-6300-FX-4300/FX-6300-FX-4300-1.jpg


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I don't know what kind of cooling you are using, sounds like you need to get something better.... I did find something you might be interested in... this person has over 4.8 ghz at 1.464 Vcore on your exact cpu... now to be fair, like I said, all silicon is not created equal so yours may not OC so well. http://images.hardwarecanucks.com/image//skymtl/CPU/FX-6300-FX-4300/FX-6300-FX-4300-1.jpg


My rig should be in my signature. I'm using the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus for cooling. This thread recommend you to do a customs test but what i heard that small FFT does a better job at stressing the CPU.

Update;
@4.3ghz with 1.4Vcore and these are my results after 1 hour of P95

http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/iFreeStylin/media/P951HR_zpsd6489ef0.jpg.html

As you can see. temps are already hitting max safe.


----------



## Abdul Karim

Hmm... I made a thread yesterday seeking help for overclocking my CPU but now that I see this, I may not need any further help... before I delete my thread, I just wanted to ask to be sure: would this guide work for me since I am trying to OC my AMD FX-8120 (I believe it is considered a Bulldozer CPU, yes?) and it is on an ASUS M5A99X EVO motherboard?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> My rig should be in my signature. I'm using the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus for cooling. This thread recommend you to do a customs test but what i heard that small FFT does a better job at stressing the CPU.
> Update;
> @4.3ghz with 1.4Vcore and these are my results after 1 hour of P95
> As you can see. temps are already hitting max safe.


Small FFT only stresses the cache of the CPU. You could do Blend or a Custom setup to make sure the IMC is functioning properly at your Overclocked settings by loading up more Ram.

Your voltages could be normal, since there is such a large range on these CPUs. You should be able to get ~4.0Ghz using your stock voltage with Turbo Disabled. Looking at your OC with that 212 Plus you are pretty close. Blend will run hotter than Small FFT too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abdul Karim*
> 
> Hmm... I made a thread yesterday seeking help for overclocking my CPU but now that I see this, I may not need any further help... before I delete my thread, I just wanted to ask to be sure: would this guide work for me since I am trying to OC my AMD FX-8120 (I believe it is considered a Bulldozer CPU, yes?) and it is on an ASUS M5A99X EVO motherboard?


Works exactly the same and yes it sure is a Bulldozer CPU. Feel free to post your results.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> My rig should be in my signature. I'm using the Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus for cooling. This thread recommend you to do a customs test but what i heard that small FFT does a better job at stressing the CPU.
> 
> Update;
> @4.3ghz with 1.4Vcore and these are my results after 1 hour of P95
> 
> http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/iFreeStylin/media/P951HR_zpsd6489ef0.jpg.html
> 
> As you can see. temps are already hitting max safe.


Like computerestore said, small ffts don't always do the trick.. I would also run a blend test... I am curious what LLC settings you are using as well as your other voltages and settings... 1.4 still, to me at least seems a bit high to only be getting 4.3 stable... but then like I've said before, not all silicone is equal so that may just be what that chip needs.... I just can't help to think though that there is something else that can be done to lower the voltages and keep it stable and cooler....even my old 8150 FX would hit 4.4ghz stable at 1.4Vcore


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> Like computerestore said, small ffts don't always do the trick.. I would also run a blend test... I am curious what LLC settings you are using as well as your other voltages and settings... 1.4 still, to me at least seems a bit high to only be getting 4.3 stable... but then like I've said before, not all silicone is equal so that may just be what that chip needs.... I just can't help to think though that there is something else that can be done to lower the voltages and keep it stable and cooler....even my old 8150 FX would hit 4.4ghz stable at 1.4Vcore


My mobo only allows LLC enable, disable or auto. In bios my CPU voltage is set to 1.38, with LLC enable reports 1.39 and under load goes up to 1.4. As for other voltages i have every other one at defaults.


----------



## CannedBullets

Hey, so would a newer FX-6300 overclock better than the FX-6300 I bought in January? I have my Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2/GEN3 (which I will install on Friday), my current motherboard (ASRock 970 Extreme3) will go to my Dad's build when I build a PC to replace his aging Dell. He wants the same CPU as me and said it would be okay if his PC used the same FX-6300 on my PC right now and I got a new FX-6300 to go with my Sabertooth. So would an FX-6300 bought this week overclock better than an FX-6300 bought in January? Yeah I'm gunning for 4.5 ghz.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

no way to tell really, but there is that chance for sure. I would think that since they are based on the same pildriver cores that my 8350 is made of that 4.5ghz would be easy to get, but seems iFreeSylin's chip would prove different. I can run 4.2 ghz at only 1.28 ghz (1.25 if I turn llc up to extreme) and can get 4.5 to stabilize at 1.34 vcore, but his 6300 seems to need more, but then I've seen others that "claim" to have gotten better results.... its that silicone lottery, sometimes you win, sometimes you lose.


----------



## Abdul Karim

Hey guys, I need some help because after applying the Recommended settings and then following the guide and setting the CPU manual voltage and cpu ratio, I encounter a major problem:

First off, with regards to the Recommended settings, this is what I put:

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual = *I set it to Manual*
AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled = *I put Disabled*
DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v = *I haven't see anything which said "DRAM" to mess with, however I did see something which I think is the same thing: "Memory Frequency" which I set to DDR3-1666Mhz *that was the closest I was able to select instead of 1600Mhz*
CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz = *once again, I didn't have that exact option so I selected the closest number which is 2250Mhz*
HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz = *yet again, I didn't have that exact option so I selected the closest number which is 2500Mhz*
CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks) = *I put 1.3v*
CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%) = *I put Ultra High*
CPU/NB LLC - Auto = *left it at Auto*
CPU Current Capability - 130% = *I put 130%*
CPU/NB Current Capability - 130% = *I put 130%*
DRAM Current Capability 130% = *I have no such option in my Bios*
Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled = *I have no such option in my Bios*
C1E - Disabled = *I have no such option in my Bios*
SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines = *I have no such option in my Bios*
Core C6 State - Disabled = = *I have no such option in my Bios*
HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind) = = *I have no such option in my Bios*
Amp Master Mode - Disabled = = *I have no such option in my Bios*
*Although it isn't officially part of the guide, I disabled the two Spread Spectrum options like the guy who commented in the thread recommended to do and which ComputerRestore affirmed should be done (although I wonder how come it isn't part of the official guide if it is a recommended option...*

After all that, I restarted the computer and reentered the Bios to tweak the CPU Manual Voltage and I set it manually to the number it said, which was about 1.356v (if I remember correctly) and then set my CPU ratio so that it went from 3100Mhz to 3725 MHz (that's only a 625Mhz increase even though the guide says that most Bulldozer CPUs will run an extra 700-800Mhz) and I was gonna start the stress test from there... but when I rebooted to go to my Desktop and start doing the Prime95 tests, my monitor refused to turn on! I could see that the computer clearly restarted but for some reason the monitor would now not turn on. So I turned it off and on via the power button to see if it happened again and monitor just kept refusing to turn on so I unplugged the computer for about a minute, plugged it back in and it happened the monitor happened to turn on but instead it didn't load to the desktop, rather it said that my "Overclock Failed!" from which point I just put everything back to normal and decided to seek someone's help on here before I do anything else. Here are my specs (according to Speccy program) in case it helps troubleshooting my problem:

Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
CPU
AMD FX-8120 25 °C
Zambezi 32nm Technology
RAM
8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 668MHz (9-9-9-24)
Motherboard
ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. M5A99X EVO (AM3r2) 40 °C
Graphics
VX2450 SERIES ([email protected])
2048MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 (EVGA) 35 °C
Hard Drives
238GB M4-CT256 M4SSD2 SATA Disk Device (SSD)
233GB Western Digital WDC WD25 00JD-00HBB0 SATA Disk Device (SATA) 35 °C
Optical Drives
DTSOFT Virtual CdRom Device
Audio
Realtek High Definition Audio

^That includes my idle temps


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abdul Karim*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some help because after applying the Recommended settings and then following the guide and setting the CPU manual voltage and cpu ratio, I encounter a major problem:
> 
> First off, with regards to the Recommended settings, this is what I put:
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual = *I set it to Manual*
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled = *I put Disabled*
> DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v = *I haven't see anything which said "DRAM" to mess with, however I did see something which I think is the same thing: "Memory Frequency" which I set to DDR3-1666Mhz *that was the closest I was able to select instead of 1600Mhz*
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz = *once again, I didn't have that exact option so I selected the closest number which is 2250Mhz*
> HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz = *yet again, I didn't have that exact option so I selected the closest number which is 2500Mhz*
> CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks) = *I put 1.3v*
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%) = *I put Ultra High*
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto = *left it at Auto*
> CPU Current Capability - 130% = *I put 130%*
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130% = *I put 130%*
> DRAM Current Capability 130% = *I have no such option in my Bios*
> Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled = *I have no such option in my Bios*
> C1E - Disabled = *I have no such option in my Bios*
> SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines = *I have no such option in my Bios*
> Core C6 State - Disabled = = *I have no such option in my Bios*
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind) = = *I have no such option in my Bios*
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled = = *I have no such option in my Bios*
> *Although it isn't officially part of the guide, I disabled the two Spread Spectrum options like the guy who commented in the thread recommended to do and which ComputerRestore affirmed should be done (although I wonder how come it isn't part of the official guide if it is a recommended option...*
> 
> After all that, I restarted the computer and reentered the Bios to tweak the CPU Manual Voltage and I set it manually to the number it said, which was about 1.356v (if I remember correctly) and then set my CPU ratio so that it went from 3100Mhz to 3725 MHz (that's only a 625Mhz increase even though the guide says that most Bulldozer CPUs will run an extra 700-800Mhz) and I was gonna start the stress test from there... but when I rebooted to go to my Desktop and start doing the Prime95 tests, my monitor refused to turn on! I could see that the computer clearly restarted but for some reason the monitor would now not turn on. So I turned it off and on via the power button to see if it happened again and monitor just kept refusing to turn on so I unplugged the computer for about a minute, plugged it back in and it happened the monitor happened to turn on but instead it didn't load to the desktop, rather it said that my "Overclock Failed!" from which point I just put everything back to normal and decided to seek someone's help on here before I do anything else. Here are my specs (according to Speccy program) in case it helps troubleshooting my problem:
> 
> Operating System
> Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit SP1
> CPU
> AMD FX-8120 25 °C
> Zambezi 32nm Technology
> RAM
> 8.00GB Single-Channel DDR3 @ 668MHz (9-9-9-24)
> Motherboard
> ASUSTeK COMPUTER INC. M5A99X EVO (AM3r2) 40 °C
> Graphics
> VX2450 SERIES ([email protected])
> 2048MB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 660 (EVGA) 35 °C
> Hard Drives
> 238GB M4-CT256 M4SSD2 SATA Disk Device (SSD)
> 233GB Western Digital WDC WD25 00JD-00HBB0 SATA Disk Device (SATA) 35 °C
> Optical Drives
> DTSOFT Virtual CdRom Device
> Audio
> Realtek High Definition Audio
> 
> ^That includes my idle temps


I am sorry but I don't have much time as I am headed out the door. But real quickly, when ocing one of the most important rules is do one thing at a time and test most changes made individually. As chips all tend to be different in results you usually can't copy all the settings from one chip and put them in another without gradually testing. This will not only give you a feel of how your system will run and tells you what your system is capable of but also helps your advisors out so they can narrow down the issue. Just start like that and as soon as you see errors document it it and send it our way and most of the time we can tell you what to do next. Like i said. I have to go for now. Good luck having one of the funnest experiences you can find on the computer.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abdul Karim*
> 
> Hey guys, I need some help because after applying the Recommended settings and then following the guide and setting the CPU manual voltage and cpu ratio, I encounter a major problem:


Hi Abdul,

Couple things:
I can tell by your frequencies that you are increasing the FSB. Since these are Black Edition CPUs you will only need to increase the CPU Multiplier, that way you can keep your other frequencies (DRAM,HTT,CPU/NB) all at their stock frequencies. Otherwise you may run into issues with stability from other factors.

It is strange that you don't have options for Cool'n'Quiet among other settings. You will need to make sure that you have the most up to date BIOS for your motherboard.

Have another read through the Guide. You should familiarize yourself with all of the functions, that way to have a better understanding of the Overclock procedure.

To simplify the Recommended Settings section not all options are included. Information on the settings such as Spread Spectrum can be found under their in BIOS heading (AI Tweaker etc)

Good luck.

Edited: Also please fill out your Rig info and add it to your signature. Being able to see the specs of all your hardware will make it much easier to help you.


----------



## Abdul Karim

Where would I go to fill out my rig information?

And I don't know how I am increasing my Front Side Bus because I don't even know how to do that in the first place. The only settings that I have been touching to my knowledge has been the options that the Recommended Settings mentioned.

Cool N' Quiet and the other options don't appear under AI tweak settings.. maybe they are under another category?

I know my CPU can overclock because when I put automatic overclock, the CPU automatically auto clocks to 3.9Ghz from 3.1Ghz. I just know I can get a better overclock but I just need to find out what keeps making my monitor not start up when I do it manually.


----------



## ComputerRestore

To add a Rig

Click on your name on the top right of the page to get into your Profile.

Down at the very bottom you will see Create a new Rig - fill out all your info.

You can take it one step further an when you go to Edit your Signature you can add the Rig to your signature. Then members can view your rig info right from your Sig.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I'm running a 6300 on an ASRock 990FX Extreme4. I'm at 1.325 volts and 4.5 GHz running [email protected] on full. I'm not sure of its stability, since I've had several crashes and freezes (like literally just now). What voltages does 4.5 GHz typically take? I have spread spectrum off and can only hit 3.9 GHz at stock voltages, if that helps.


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I'm running a 6300 on an ASRock 990FX Extreme4. I'm at 1.325 volts and 4.5 GHz running [email protected] on full. I'm not sure of its stability, since I've had several crashes and freezes (like literally just now). What voltages does 4.5 GHz typically take? I have spread spectrum off and can only hit 3.9 GHz at stock voltages, if that helps.


That's pretty low for that speed. I need at least 1.4V for 4.5 ghz stable.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I'm running a 6300 on an ASRock 990FX Extreme4. I'm at 1.325 volts and 4.5 GHz running [email protected] on full. I'm not sure of its stability, since I've had several crashes and freezes (like literally just now). What voltages does 4.5 GHz typically take? I have spread spectrum off and can only hit 3.9 GHz at stock voltages, if that helps.
> 
> 
> 
> That's pretty low for that speed. I need at least 1.4V for 4.5 ghz stable.
Click to expand...

I'm turning it up incrementally so nothing dies yet. Once Prime95 finishes successfully, I'll try that for a while and see how it handles.

EDIT: I've been running Prime95 for the past ten-fifteen minutes at 1.4v just fine, so I'll call it stable. Except I have one sort of major problem: Core number five shut and only sporadically gets used.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I'm turning it up incrementally so nothing dies yet. Once Prime95 finishes successfully, I'll try that for a while and see how it handles.
> 
> EDIT: I've been running Prime95 for the past ten-fifteen minutes at 1.4v just fine, so I'll call it stable. Except I have one sort of major problem: Core number five shut and only sporadically gets used.


usual that's a sign that the particular core in question erored out sometime during the test... its not unusually in multicore cpu's to have one or more cores that require more voltage to get stable than the rest... I have 4 out of my 8 that can hit 5.1 ghz at only 1.41 vcore... the others take 1.55v to get that stable at least to the point that my cooling can stand.. I can't test for long at that voltage because my cooling won't keep up with all 8 cores at that voltage... but the 1.41 volts on 4 cores I have tested for hours and its stable... but I can't decide whether or not its better to have 4 cores running over 5 ghz or 8 running at 4.8.... just depends on how many threads the program uses I suppose


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Ugh.. Is it more dangerous to have a core or two drop out under extreme load or to overvolt it even more? Other than benchmarks, I'm not going to be at 100% loads for more than a few seconds and my uber fan system is keeping core temperatures around 50 usually and under 55 degrees tops. I suppose if only my CPU and GPU die and don't take the motherboard with it then I can upgrade with an 8350 and better GPU.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I like your thinking of "if they die, I can upgrade" that's how I ended up with this system. Usually the extreme conditions that p95 generate will bring in the worst case scenario.. most of the time.. if it survives even for a few mins on p95 then it will be ok for use... you just might have a few more crashes and BSOD's than normal... I would try testing it with intel burn test... if it survives that on standard settings then you will likely be ok... now if you just can't stand the idea of the mild instability being there, voltage increase might get it out... however there are other things that you can try... some say to try raising the cpu-nb voltage a tick or two.. .others say try raising the mem voltage a tick or two... then I've heard the opposite can help on the memory sometimes... Overclocking isn't a path to a door, its a road ever leading into frustration lol. Personally, I'd tick up the voltage a bit and run the test while watching the cpu core temps and socket temps to make sure that they don't go over 61 C for the cores and 65C for the socket.... those are not hard numbers...just my comfort zone.

Edit: one thing I forgot to mention, the temps you see in prime 95 and intel burn test aren't really the ones you have to be concerned about unless you seriously put that kind of load on it regularly... they are just a worst case scenario, so if you have to increase voltage to keep it stable and you don't like the temps you seen in p95 or itb you could leave a monitoring program running and do some real life tests by simply doing what you normally would do and see what the temps are like then... if they are all good then you will be ok... even with the stock cooler and stock settings on these pildriver chips you will see horrible temps with artificially high loads put on them.


----------



## Abdul Karim

Should I be worried if I am running Prime95 and my motherboard temp shoots up a lot more than my CPU temp? My CPU temp was at 59 C while the mobo was at 68 C...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abdul Karim*
> 
> Should I be worried if I am running Prime95 and my motherboard temp shoots up a lot more than my CPU temp? My CPU temp was at 59 C while the mobo was at 68 C...


strange indeed... never heard of that happening before... sounds like you may need some case fans or perhaps a re-organization of the ones you have.. usually even in games with two 6850's venting inside the case I don't have my mobo temp get over 43 C and its sensor is right near the video cards... but I have a lot of fans both pushing air in (from the front of the machine) and pulling out (on the side near the cards and in the rear) I would be concerned... especially if other temps around it were hot....but I can't help but to wonder if maybe thats a VRM temp on the mobo instead of just the mobo temp...if so... a fan over the vrm's will help


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abdul Karim*
> 
> Should I be worried if I am running Prime95 and my motherboard temp shoots up a lot more than my CPU temp? My CPU temp was at 59 C while the mobo was at 68 C...


That is normal depending what CPU you are running.
Under Prime95 or similar Load
4 Core FX - CPU Core and Socket are usually the same temp
6 Core FX - CPU Socket is ~5-7C higher than the CPU Core
8 Core FX - CPU Socket is ~10-15C higher than the CPU Core.

Because the CPU Socket is directly linked to the VRMs the extra current to run the 6 and 8 core FXs causes temps to be higher.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> That is normal depending what CPU you are running.
> 4 Core FX - CPU Core and Socket are usually the same temp
> 6 Core FX - CPU Socket is ~5-7C higher than the CPU Core
> 8 Core FX - CPU Socket is ~10-15C higher than the CPU Core.
> 
> Because the CPU Socket is directly linked to the VRMs the extra current to run the 6 and 8 core FXs causes temps to be higher.


on my board using AI suite the cpu temp is the socket temp... the mobo temp is a completely different sensor...I didn't consider that his may be reporting the socket temp as the mobo temp... if thats the case all is well.


----------



## CannedBullets

Hey, so I noticed on my Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 bios (flashed to the latest version) that I have to enter in the multiplier/CPU Ratio manually by typing in stuff like 17.5 or 18.0 or 22.5 and etc and it looks like you have to enter in voltages manually because it mentions it on the guide. Is it possible to have a drop down menu setting for the voltages?

I'm more used to the drop down menu because on my old ASRock 970 Extreme3 the multiplier and voltages were in drop down menus instead of manually entering in the values you wanted.

Yeah the Sabertooth is just an excellent piece of engineering. I can't wait until the summer semester is over so I can start overclocking.

EDIT: Also if it makes a difference I flashed the bios by downloading the bios file from Asus's website and using AI Suite to install off of the file, it worked fine.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Hey, so I noticed on my Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 bios (flashed to the latest version) that I have to enter in the multiplier/CPU Ratio manually by typing in stuff like 17.5 or 18.0 or 22.5 and etc and it looks like you have to enter in voltages manually because it mentions it on the guide. Is it possible to have a drop down menu setting for the voltages?


For these Asus boards you will have to enter your settings manually. You can either Type it in, or use the +/- to increase or decrease your values.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I'm turning it up incrementally so nothing dies yet. Once Prime95 finishes successfully, I'll try that for a while and see how it handles.
> 
> EDIT: I've been running Prime95 for the past ten-fifteen minutes at 1.4v just fine, so I'll call it stable. Except I have one sort of major problem: Core number five shut and only sporadically gets used.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> usual that's a sign that the particular core in question erored out sometime during the test... its not unusually in multicore cpu's to have one or more cores that require more voltage to get stable than the rest... I have 4 out of my 8 that can hit 5.1 ghz at only 1.41 vcore... the others take 1.55v to get that stable at least to the point that my cooling can stand.. I can't test for long at that voltage because my cooling won't keep up with all 8 cores at that voltage... but the 1.41 volts on 4 cores I have tested for hours and its stable... but I can't decide whether or not its better to have 4 cores running over 5 ghz or 8 running at 4.8.... just depends on how many threads the program uses I suppose


It is better not to have any cores fail due to error, although it is true that prime95 will run your cpu at full capacity and most programs will not utilise 100% of your cpu the majority of the time, having 6/8 cores (fx6xxx & 8xxx cpu's) running at 4.5Ghz would be better than having 3/4 cores running at 5Ghz, the fact your only running p95 for say 15 mins is not going to show you that your system is stable, mine at 4.8Ghz will run 4 hours prime stable at 2 notches down on the voltage before failing yet adding 2 notches to the voltage I can run 18 hours plus stable


----------



## waveaddict

Hello all,first post.
Great thread,I have recently taken the plunge into OC'ng my FX 6100,and have gotten to 4200mhz w/ 1.380v, 2400 on CPU/NB , 2200 on HT.
FSB is not touched(200) all other settings disabled or in auto as described above in the BIOS.
Using ASUS MB M5A97 LE R2.0
CORSAIR vengance ram @ 1600 4gig x2 , 1.5v timings set @ 9,9,9,24
CPU cooler ANTEC h20 kuhler 920,in push-pull
I've ran prime95 w/ small FFT's with no problems and Blend test for 1-1/2 hrs,then I got the error on worker#6.
I also run 3DMARK06 only to stress the CPU,and get a final score.
Would like to go a little higher,like 4400-4500 maybe,I guess I'm asking is it better or more stable to OC using multi+voltage or just FSB?

Any suggestions with what I've done so far.

Thanks,
waveaddict


----------



## CannedBullets

This is weird, for some reason when I went into my Bios and set the voltage to manual to see what my stock voltage was it said 1.38v. Isn't that too high for an FX-6300 on stock? I thought it was 1.28v, so when I do my overclock testing should I manually put the CPU voltage to 1.28v? Yeah the CPU/NB Voltage was 1.18v also.

Yeah iirc it did this when i first booted into the bios before I flashed it to the latest version.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Hello all,first post.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Great thread,I have recently taken the plunge into OC'ng my FX 6100,and have gotten to 4200mhz w/ 1.380v, 2400 on CPU/NB , 2200 on HT.
> FSB is not touched(200) all other settings disabled or in auto as described above in the BIOS.
> Using ASUS MB M5A97 LE R2.0
> CORSAIR vengance ram @ 1600 4gig x2 , 1.5v timings set @ 9,9,9,24
> CPU cooler ANTEC h20 kuhler 920,in push-pull
> I've ran prime95 w/ small FFT's with no problems and Blend test for 1-1/2 hrs,then I got the error on worker#6.
> I also run 3DMARK06 only to stress the CPU,and get a final score.
> Would like to go a little higher,like 4400-4500 maybe,I guess I'm asking is it better or more stable to OC using multi+voltage or just FSB?
> 
> Any suggestions with what I've done so far.
> 
> Thanks,
> waveaddict






Welcome to OCN.

For OCing these FX cpus, there hasn't been any noticeable difference between overclocking with the FSB, or CPU Ratio. So for simplicity it's nice to stick to the CPU ratio, as the FSB effects many components.

I'm not certain how much of an OC you can get on that motherboard. To improve stability it would be recommended to put aftermarket heat sinks on the VRM's and since you are using an AIO (All-in-One) cooler to put a fan over the VRMs as well. Keep those cool will be your biggest OC hurdle on that board. Good luck.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> This is weird, for some reason when I went into my Bios and set the voltage to manual to see what my stock voltage was it said 1.38v. Isn't that too high for an FX-6300 on stock? I thought it was 1.28v, so when I do my overclock testing should I manually put the CPU voltage to 1.28v? Yeah the CPU/NB Voltage was 1.18v also.
> 
> Yeah iirc it did this when i first booted into the bios before I flashed it to the latest version.


Is it showing 1.38v with Turbo disabled?
(Disable Turbo, set to Manual Voltage mode - Save and Exit BIOS, back in the BIOS you will see a different value)


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Is it showing 1.38v with Turbo disabled?
> (Disable Turbo, set to Manual Voltage mode - Save and Exit BIOS, back in the BIOS you will see a different value)


Its showing it with turbo on. So just switch off Turbo and change voltage from offset to manual? Or do I have to put the stock voltage of 1.28 in the CPU Voltage box?


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Is it showing 1.38v with Turbo disabled?
> (Disable Turbo, set to Manual Voltage mode - Save and Exit BIOS, back in the BIOS you will see a different value)
> 
> 
> 
> Its showing it with turbo on. So just switch off Turbo and change voltage from offset to manual? Or do I have to put the stock voltage of 1.28 in the CPU Voltage box?
Click to expand...

If the cpu voltage is left on auto , as you raise the clock on you cpu the voltage will be added automatically. Usually more voltage than is needed making your overclock hotter than it needs to be, limiting your overall oc. set the voltage manually to stock. raise voltage in increments as needed to stabilize the cpu oc, keeping close attn to both the cpu core temps and socket temps.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Its showing it with turbo on. So just switch off Turbo and change voltage from offset to manual? Or do I have to put the stock voltage of 1.28 in the CPU Voltage box?


Turn Turbo off
Change CPU voltage to Manual

Save and Exit the BIOS

Enter into BIOS - now all the values will be changed due to Turbo being off.

From here you can manually enter what your Stock CPU voltage is.
(your stock CPU voltage is whatever it is showing beside Auto)

Then you can work on increasing your CPU ratio until it fails stability.


----------



## waveaddict

Thanks for the reply.I 'll stick to OC'ing using CPU ratio,FSB threw the DRAM to high for my MB.All though my ram can handle 2000 OC.Don't want to deal with more hot spots than I have to.I know I'm pretty limited with my MB.
I'll see if I can go a little higher,safely and post back.My temps are good @ 4200 mhz,25c idle,36c w/Prime95 Blend test.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Turn Turbo off
> Change CPU voltage to Manual
> 
> Save and Exit the BIOS
> 
> Enter into BIOS - now all the values will be changed due to Turbo being off.
> 
> From here you can manually enter what your Stock CPU voltage is.
> (your stock CPU voltage is whatever it is showing beside Auto)
> 
> Then you can work on increasing your CPU ratio until it fails stability.


Thanks, yeah at first I thought I got a really bad FX-6300 that needed 1.38v for stock when it was just the Turbo doing that.


----------



## brucevilanch

If my ram is rated for 1.65 volts, then should I still run it at 1.5v?


----------



## chase11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucevilanch*
> 
> If my ram is rated for 1.65 volts, then should I still run it at 1.5v?


It is not required. If your ram is rated at 1.65v running it at 1.5 will not make much of a difference or make it last longer. I would just run it at what it is rated at unless you are underclocking your ram for some weird reason.


----------



## Pipson10

has anyone managed to get 4.8ghz stable on M5a99x evo r2.0 ?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brucevilanch*
> 
> If my ram is rated for 1.65 volts, then should I still run it at 1.5v?


For testing your max CPU overclock I would recommend running your Ram at a Spec that only uses 1.5v and/or a low frequency (1600Mhz)

The IMC stability seems to be a lot lower than the CPU stability and running high voltage and/or high frequency puts a lot of strain on the IMC.

Once you find your max stable CPU overclock, then you can find your max Ram speed.
You can increase the CPU/NB voltage to help with IMC stability, but at the cost of heat, but it will help you know if you need more CPU/NB voltage or CPU voltage for pushing your Ram harder.

If you set your ram first (i.e. 1866Mhz+) it might run fine when you aren't pushing the limits of the CPU, but usually once you pass ~4.4Ghz then the IMC will struggle, and it will be hard to find where the stability issue is.


----------



## pr0k1llz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> has anyone managed to get 4.8ghz stable on M5a99x evo r2.0 ?


yea ive gotten my amd fx 4170 stable to 4.822 Ghz on 1.49 volts even and prime 95. but i could go higher because i did not move the bus speed as much as i should have most of the ovc was using the multiplyer


----------



## StryckNyne

Would AI Suite alerting wild voltage swings be a software glitch or indicative of an aging powersupply? also since the night of drunken overclocking i think my antec h2o kuhler 920 is limping away on it last leg, so which would be a suitable replacement? H100 or Kraken x60? until these 2 issues get resolved i cant do anything to my overclock, and have since then reverted back to stock speeds


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StryckNyne*
> 
> Would AI Suite alerting wild voltage swings be a software glitch or indicative of an aging powersupply? also since the night of drunken overclocking i think my antec h2o kuhler 920 is limping away on it last leg, so which would be a suitable replacement? H100 or Kraken x60? until these 2 issues get resolved i cant do anything to my overclock, and have since then reverted back to stock speeds


The voltage swings are a software glitch. It does that to me saying my 5V rail is at 2.9V when HWMonitor says my 5V rail is at 4.9V. This is on a two month old Seasonic X650 also.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StryckNyne*
> 
> Would AI Suite alerting wild voltage swings be a software glitch or indicative of an aging powersupply? also since the night of drunken overclocking i think my antec h2o kuhler 920 is limping away on it last leg, so which would be a suitable replacement? H100 or Kraken x60? until these 2 issues get resolved i cant do anything to my overclock, and have since then reverted back to stock speeds


I have a thermalright sb-e extreme which in the UK is almost half the price of the h100, and performs a lot better, I am able to keep my fx6300 below 49ºc using prime95 to test stability of an overclock at 4.8Ghz so wouldnt recommend the h100 over my air cooler at all,


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Anybody planning on getting the new fx 9350 at all?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Anybody planning on getting the new fx 9350 at all?


Ha ha, as much as I would love to play with one....it's a bit out of my budget. I would like to see a review that included overclocking one though, but it would probably have to be on a CHV-Z with a custom loop.

One thing that's impressive is most the reviews I've seen the FX-9590 is turboing up to 5.0Ghz @ ~1.46v. Most of AMD's voltages are very generous, so really...how high could it actually go. There's members on the FX Owners group that push 1.6v through their chips and keep decent temps with custom water cooling. So maybe ~5.6Ghz+ with this chip? It's almost worth the money too find out.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Ha ha, as much as I would love to play with one....it's a bit out of my budget. I would like to see a review that included overclocking one though, but it would probably have to be on a CHV-Z with a custom loop.
> 
> One thing that's impressive is most the reviews I've seen the FX-9590 is turboing up to 5.0Ghz @ ~1.46v. Most of AMD's voltages are very generous, so really...how high could it actually go. There's members on the FX Owners group that push 1.6v through their chips and keep decent temps with custom water cooling. So maybe ~5.6Ghz+ with this chip? It's almost worth the money too find out.


on further digging, it seems its just an 8350 that is pre overclocked, and with my thermalright sb-e extreme I think id be able to get it at 5Ghz without the turbo and keep the heat down, it would just be my m5a99x evo r2.0 board that wouldn't like it









If I get enough compo from my hit n run accident I may get one with a crosshair board and see how my sb-e handles it, according to aria.co.uk a corshair h100 would be ok (don't think they that clever when it comes to overclocking, they use burnin test to check stability and use lower end boards in the oc builds they sell lol) but like I said it will only be if I get enough compo to be able to afford to throw near on £1000 at hardware I could possibly end up killing in less than 6 months haha


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> on further digging, it seems its just an 8350 that is pre overclocked


Yeah, that's all it is. But it's such a great sample of an 8350. I would pay $280 for one, but not $800+. I would rather buy two 8350's a CHV-Z and full board custom water cooling - and it would pretty much guarantee the best OC.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Yeah, that's all it is. But it's such a great sample of an 8350. I would pay $280 for one, but not $800+. I would rather buy two 8350's a CHV-Z and full board custom water cooling - and it would pretty much guarantee the best OC.


I wouldn't mind a board that takes 2 x 8350's like the workstations and xeons lol


----------



## waveaddict

In regards to settings in my bios,how do you set these;
CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
CPU/NB LLC - Auto ( this one is obvious)
CPU Current Capability - 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
DRAM Current Capability 130%


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> In regards to settings in my bios,how do you set these;
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto ( this one is obvious)
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Current Capability 130%


It's in the OP's first post.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Many thanks for this thread. I read it and actually read about what each setting is and what it does on this forum, rather than just seeing what I should set them to. If I had staarted tackling my first ever CPU OC without reading this first... bad things would have happened.







Also, I feel 3 times smarter now.
Just a question though: If I don't mess with my FSB, do I still need to change my DRAM Current Capability? If yes, will it increase RAM temps?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Many thanks for this thread. I read it and actually read about what each setting is and what it does on this forum, rather than just seeing what I should set them to. If I had staarted tackling my first ever CPU OC without reading this first... bad things would have happened.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I feel 3 times smarter now.
> Just a question though: If I don't mess with my FSB, do I still need to change my DRAM Current Capability? If yes, will it increase RAM temps?


Setting the DRAM Current Capability to 130% wont increase the ram temps and it wont draw more current than it needs to. There was an issue where another OCN member was using 4x8GB modules for 32GB of Ram and had issues keeping it stable without setting the higher current capability, so for simplicities sake I updated the guide to include this setting since it doesn't hurt anything by doing so.


----------



## waveaddict

In my bios I dont have these settings;DIGI+power control.Does my bios need to be updated?


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> In my bios I dont have these settings;DIGI+power control.Does my bios need to be updated?


I Would update your BIOS and see if then it is there. If not maybe it's not capable of those settings or it's in another location in the BIOS.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> In my bios I dont have these settings;DIGI+power control.Does my bios need to be updated?


On the third image it says cpu load line calibration and the option enabled, what other options do you have, what board are you using? Your bios may need upgrading and i will have a look in my bios later to see if i can try and clear this up a little


----------



## Stormscion

Lower end motherboards do not have digiVRM


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Might be a dumb question, but how much does increasing VDDA voltage increase stabilty? Does it make sense do do it while only overclocking the CPU?


----------



## waveaddict

Not sure if CPU LLC & CPU/NB LLC need to enabled or disabled when I'm OC'ing only using CPU ratio,as well as not having the option for DIGI control.

I'll post more shots of my bios a little later.
I've also tried to update the bios using the Asus flash utility but was not clear how to do this.

Any advise would be appreciated.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Not sure if CPU LLC & CPU/NB LLC need to enabled or disabled when I'm OC'ing only using CPU ratio,as well as not having the option for DIGI control.
> 
> I'll post more shots of my bios a little later.
> I've also tried to update the bios using the Asus flash utility but was not clear how to do this.
> 
> Any advise would be appreciated.


Easiest way is to go to the ASUS site and download the newest BIOS file for your mobo. Then use the ASUS update and update form file, select the file you downloaded, and continue. Upon rebooting you'll have to setup you settings once again as they'll be back to defaults.

Step 1: Open AI Suite, Update, ASUS Update


Step 2: Select Update BIOS from file


Step 3: Browse for downloaded BIOS


Step 4: Select if you want a custom logo or default


Step 5: Begin flashing process


I'd continue on past here with images but I am quite satisfied with my current BIOS. Hopefully this helps. Good luck.


----------



## waveaddict

Alright,updated the Bios using AI suite,but still no DIGI/VRM settings.I guess my board does not have that option.Have since reverted back and restarted my OC using the settings recommended,while running Prime small FFT's.
I'll post back when I get a stable OC.


----------



## Pholostan

Great thread and great guide! Thanks a bunch









I had many problems that boiled down to a flaky stick of RAM in the end. It passes memtest on both my AMD boards, but on an Intel board it fails every time. No more mysterious problems without it.

I am stable at 4.6 GHz and 1.464 Volt, I can boot at 4.8 but need very high voltage to be stable. Temperature runs amok :-/ I run most stuff as stated in the guide, though have found that I have the same stability with High LLC and phase control set to Optimized, and gain a little better temps/power consumption.


Ambient temps were about 24-25 C.


----------



## Majorhi

So I decided today, to run OCCT, after running my current settings for the past month without issue. After 49 seconds it stops. Error detected, but no explanation as to why. Is there an error log or something i'm not seeing? I only see the pictures.


----------



## computerfreak09

Never mind, ignore this post.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Great thread and great guide! Thanks a bunch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had many problems that boiled down to a flaky stick of RAM in the end. It passes memtest on both my AMD boards, but on an Intel board it fails every time. No more mysterious problems without it.
> 
> I am stable at 4.6 GHz and 1.464 Volt, I can boot at 4.8 but need very high voltage to be stable. Temperature runs amok :-/ I run most stuff as stated in the guide, though have found that I have the same stability with High LLC and phase control set to Optimized, and gain a little better temps/power consumption.


Very nice OC. Does your CPU have a high Stock CPU Voltage? Or does it just require a lot of voltage at 4.6Ghz? It looks like you have some very nice cooling as you're only hitting 44C running IBT.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> So I decided today, to run OCCT, after running my current settings for the past month without issue. After 49 seconds it stops. Error detected, but no explanation as to why. Is there an error log or something i'm not seeing? I only see the pictures.


This picture is showing that your CPU Voltage was fluctuating too wildly under OCCT Stress. I was never able to get my 990FX Pro 2.0 100% Stable above 4.7Ghz. Like yours it was fine running above those settings, but any sort of stress test would bring it to it's knees. Many people with those boards have similar difficulty despite board cooling VRM, CPU, Socket etc so I suspect the VRM's just aren't capable of sustaining that sort of strain.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Very nice OC. Does your CPU have a high Stock CPU Voltage? Or does it just require a lot of voltage at 4.6Ghz? It looks like you have some very nice cooling as you're only hitting 44C running IBT.
> This picture is showing that your CPU Voltage was fluctuating too wildly under OCCT Stress. I was never able to get my 990FX Pro 2.0 100% Stable above 4.7Ghz. Like yours it was fine running above those settings, but any sort of stress test would bring it to it's knees. Many people with those boards have similar difficulty despite board cooling VRM, CPU, Socket etc so I suspect the VRM's just aren't capable of sustaining that sort of strain.


Well all my day to day tasks run fine as well as gaming. My 4.6 @ 1.41-1.452v oc never hits thermal limits and turbos to 4.85 without fail. So I should be content with that.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Very nice OC. Does your CPU have a high Stock CPU Voltage? Or does it just require a lot of voltage at 4.6Ghz?


Thanks







I think my stock is 1.365 V or a little higher. I want my rig to be AVX and prime95 stable, and that takes considerable more voltage. If I only run ordinary IBT I can run at much less voltage. Games etc are quite stable at a lower voltage, but if I run prime or anything with AVX instructions it's unstable :-/
To be AVX/prime stable at 4.8 GHz it reaches 1.55 Volts under load at Ultra High LLC. It is stable, but core temps go into the 60-70 C range now in summer under prime. I have seen one or two cores reach 60-65 C when I run games. Folding stays at 55 C or so. So at least in summer I stay at 4.6 GHz. Ambient temps are about 25 C.
Quote:


> It looks like you have some very nice cooling as you're only hitting 44C running IBT.


Yeah, I'm very happy with the Swiftech Apogee Drive 2. It's a great pump and block combo. The alphacool rad and the GT15:s are also highly recommended. Great stuff.

Edit: Seems that the correct number for my stock CPU Voltage should be 1.3625 V.


----------



## Chopper1591

OP:

On the second post you told about:
Quote:


> Most Piledriver CPUs will run an extra 400-500Mhz on Stock Voltages


I assume this is based on the boost-clock? Which is 4.0ghz for my fx-8320.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Hey guys here is my overclock so far; AMD FX 6300 OC to 4.5Ghz

http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/iFreeStylin/media/45_zpsda6ebdc7.jpg.html

I know my CPU temps are way more that whats recommended but am getting a new cooler in a day or two. the night before i tried P95 with a Vcore of 1.440 but core #6 failed in 1 hour and 45 mins.
Its my overclock somewhat stable other from the high temps on the core?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> OP:
> 
> On the second post you told about:
> I assume this is based on the boost-clock? Which is 4.0ghz for my fx-8320.


Unfortunately that is based on the base clock. So for an 8320 you can look to get about 4.0Ghz without increasing the stock CPU voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Hey guys here is my overclock so far; AMD FX 6300 OC to 4.5Ghz
> 
> I know my CPU temps are way more that whats recommended but am getting a new cooler in a day or two. the night before i tried P95 with a Vcore of 1.440 but core #6 failed in 1 hour and 45 mins.
> Its my overclock somewhat stable other from the high temps on the core?


Looks good. Temps could be the issue.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Unfortunately that is based on the base clock. So for an 8320 you can look to get about 4.0Ghz without increasing the stock CPU voltage.
> Looks good. Temps could be the issue.


Ohh that's a shame... i kinda thought/hoped the other way around.
I think i will get pretty far with my corsair h100 anyway. Just need to cool those mosfets on my gigabyte down. On 4.0 they reach 60c rather quickly.

But i am happy my chip says 1.325v stock in the bios


----------



## truckerguy

It rare for me to see anyone take the time to test their CPU by under volting it the mistake I see everyone making is assuming that the voltage's they see the board set at is stock voltage for their CPU. its not it is a a setting that will make sure what ever CPU the board is made to run will boot up. Every CPU is different even if they are the same model. Do yourself a favor test your CPU find the stock voltage for your CPU. This is the lowest voltage setting it will boot up and run @ knowing your base will tell you how much you can OC


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Unfortunately that is based on the base clock. So for an 8320 you can look to get about 4.0Ghz without increasing the stock CPU voltage.
> Looks good. Temps could be the issue.


Yeah am getting a new cooler in a couple of days


----------



## CannedBullets

Just a question regarding what settings to disable and enable for an overclock of 4.5 ghz for an FX-6300, the rest of my rig is in my signature. I'm using the CPU multiplier also. I'm on an Asus Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 flashed to the latest bios. My RAM is in dual channel and its DDR3-1600, I set the voltage, timings, and speed manually to 1.5v, 9-9-9-24, and 1600 mhz.

AI Tweaker Questions

CPU Bus Frequency is 200 at stock right? So i should set it to 200 manually?
Also, I'm assuming that I leave NB Voltage, NB HT Voltage, NB 1.8 Voltage, and SB Voltage on auto right?

DIGI+ Questions

Also, should I leave CPU Power Phase Control on Standard?
Should I just leave CPU Voltage frequency on auto like in the picture?
Is VRM Spread Spectrum supposed to be set to Enabled or Disabled?
CPU Power Thermal Control is set to 130 right? Like in the picture?
Should I leave CPU Power Duty Control on Extreme or T-Probe?
Also, what should I set DRAM Current Capability and DRAM Voltage Frequency to?

I know I get repetitive with questions, but this Sabertooth has so many more settings than my old ASRock 970 Extreme3 to mess around with. I'll try to get 4.2 GHz stable on Friday, then later in the week when the weather is cool and after I've put a VRM fan on I'll push for 4.5 ghz.

Yeah I'll test for stability using 12 hours of P95 Blend.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Just a question regarding what settings to disable and enable for an overclock of 4.5 ghz for an FX-6300, the rest of my rig is in my signature. I'm using the CPU multiplier also. I'm on an Asus Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 flashed to the latest bios. My RAM is in dual channel and its DDR3-1600, I set the voltage, timings, and speed manually to 1.5v, 9-9-9-24, and 1600 mhz.
> 
> AI Tweaker Questions
> 
> CPU Bus Frequency is 200 at stock right? So i should set it to 200 manually?
> Also, I'm assuming that I leave NB Voltage, NB HT Voltage, NB 1.8 Voltage, and SB Voltage on auto right?
> 
> DIGI+ Questions
> 
> Also, should I leave CPU Power Phase Control on Standard?
> Should I just leave CPU Voltage frequency on auto like in the picture?
> Is VRM Spread Spectrum supposed to be set to Enabled or Disabled?
> CPU Power Thermal Control is set to 130 right? Like in the picture?
> Should I leave CPU Power Duty Control on Extreme or T-Probe?
> Also, what should I set DRAM Current Capability and DRAM Voltage Frequency to?
> 
> I know I get repetitive with questions, but this Sabertooth has so many more settings than my old ASRock 970 Extreme3 to mess around with. I'll try to get 4.2 GHz stable on Friday, then later in the week when the weather is cool and after I've put a VRM fan on I'll push for 4.5 ghz.
> 
> Yeah I'll test for stability using 12 hours of P95 Blend.


Well i don't know the bios of your board but regarding the voltages, can you choose Normal over Auto? Or set the normal voltages manually.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Well i don't know the bios of your board but regarding the voltages, can you choose Normal over Auto? Or set the normal voltages manually.


I'd have to set them manually for my bios.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I'd have to set them manually for my bios.


To be honest, i think that would be safer.

I don't know how the sabertooth's react to auto voltage but i've seen many board overvolt when loading OC'ed components.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> To be honest, i think that would be safer.
> 
> I don't know how the sabertooth's react to auto voltage but i've seen many board overvolt when loading OC'ed components.


Yeah I know, I just need answers clearing up what to do with the bios settings I mentioned.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Just a question regarding what settings to disable and enable for an overclock of 4.5 ghz for an FX-6300, the rest of my rig is in my signature. I'm using the CPU multiplier also. I'm on an Asus Sabertooth 990FX GEN3/R2 flashed to the latest bios. My RAM is in dual channel and its DDR3-1600, I set the voltage, timings, and speed manually to 1.5v, 9-9-9-24, and 1600 mhz.
> 
> AI Tweaker Questions
> 
> CPU Bus Frequency is 200 at stock right? So i should set it to 200 manually?
> Also, I'm assuming that I leave NB Voltage, NB HT Voltage, NB 1.8 Voltage, and SB Voltage on auto right?
> 
> DIGI+ Questions
> 
> Also, should I leave CPU Power Phase Control on Standard?
> Should I just leave CPU Voltage frequency on auto like in the picture?
> Is VRM Spread Spectrum supposed to be set to Enabled or Disabled?
> CPU Power Thermal Control is set to 130 right? Like in the picture?
> Should I leave CPU Power Duty Control on Extreme or T-Probe?
> Also, what should I set DRAM Current Capability and DRAM Voltage Frequency to?
> 
> I know I get repetitive with questions, but this Sabertooth has so many more settings than my old ASRock 970 Extreme3 to mess around with. I'll try to get 4.2 GHz stable on Friday, then later in the week when the weather is cool and after I've put a VRM fan on I'll push for 4.5 ghz.
> 
> Yeah I'll test for stability using 12 hours of P95 Blend.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard

Please check out my guide. All your questions should be answered in the first section.

Click the Spoiler Tab under AI Tweaker Settings DIGI+ Control Settings.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard
> 
> Please check out my guide. All your questions should be answered in the first section.
> 
> Click the Spoiler Tab under AI Tweaker Settings DIGI+ Control Settings.


Yeah its just that I was unsure what to do with those because you didn't say what to do with them but it looks like you leave them at stock values.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Since i have a pretty stable OC on my FX 6300 (thanks to this thread) am wondering can i go ahead an enable C6 & C1e? i already have CnQ enable to under-clock when not under heavy load.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Since i have a pretty stable OC on my FX 6300 (thanks to this thread) am wondering can i go ahead an enable C6 & C1e? i already have CnQ enable to under-clock when not under heavy load.


As far as i know it shouldn't give issues.

Correct me if i'm wrong


----------



## Minotaurtoo

anyone in here keep OC profiles for varying situations? next question would be AI suite profiles or bios?

I ask because I do, maybe I'm a nut, but I have many profiles varying from my low power OC and lower power stock seen here http://www.overclock.net/t/1409067/undervolting-8350fx-without-losing-performance to a 5 Ghz profile that shouldn't be left on 24/7 on account my cooling just can't keep up with it if I were to run something like folding for hours.... a 4.8 Ghz profile that borders on to hot and several that I can run 24/7... my favorite though is the low power OC







more clocks less power









If you do keep profiles like that I'd be curious as to the details of each.. .if you don't want to post them here, a PM would be fine.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> anyone in here keep OC profiles for varying situations? next question would be AI suite profiles or bios?
> 
> I ask because I do, maybe I'm a nut, but I have many profiles varying from my low power OC and lower power stock seen here http://www.overclock.net/t/1409067/undervolting-8350fx-without-losing-performance to a 5 Ghz profile that shouldn't be left on 24/7 on account my cooling just can't keep up with it if I were to run something like folding for hours.... a 4.8 Ghz profile that borders on to hot and several that I can run 24/7... my favorite though is the low power OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> more clocks less power
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do keep profiles like that I'd be curious as to the details of each.. .if you don't want to post them here, a PM would be fine.


Profiles is a very smart way to go...
Why go all out when you don't need it









I am not that far... i'm still trying to find my OC's.


----------



## CannedBullets

I'm over 7 minutes in on small ffts on 4.2 ghz with the stock voltage and I've not gotten any failures or issues yet. I guess I'll know once I set it to blend if it passes small ffts on stock voltage and 4.2 ghz.

EDIT: Just passed 10 minutes of small ffts with 4.2 ghz and stock voltage, going to do P95 Blend now.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I'm over 7 minutes in on small ffts on 4.2 ghz with the stock voltage and I've not gotten any failures or issues yet. I guess I'll know once I set it to blend if it passes small ffts on stock voltage and 4.2 ghz.
> 
> EDIT: Just passed 10 minutes of small ffts with 4.2 ghz and stock voltage, going to do P95 Blend now.


Seems decent with the stock voltage







.
What is that in your case? 1.375v?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Seems decent with the stock voltage
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> What is that in your case? 1.375v?


1.28v for an FX-6300 on stock voltage, I'm expecting to have to raise the voltage later on in the blend test if P95 fails.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 1.28v for an FX-6300 on stock voltage, I'm expecting to have to raise the voltage later on in the blend test if P95 fails.


My bad.
I kinda thought you had an 83x0 chip







.
Seeing your boost clock is 4.1 stock maybe you can squeeze out some more.

Be sure to run blend long enough. At least 6 hours.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> My bad.
> I kinda thought you had an 83x0 chip
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Seeing your boost clock is 4.1 stock maybe you can squeeze out some more.
> 
> Be sure to run blend long enough. At least 6 hours.


I'm planning on 12 hours of blend. I'm still expecting it to fail soon, I'm at 30 minutes of P95 blend right now and I'm pretty sure I need more than stock voltage to run an FX-6300 at 4.2 ghz.

EDIT: Okay a core failed after 46 minutes, I raised the voltage up one notch by from 1.28 to 1.29. The core failed with 100 warnings and zero errors. Not sure what those warnings are.

EDIT: Just checked the warnings, it said Illegal Sumout, not sure what that is.

EDIT: After 46 minutes again it failed, same core, same error. The document says "ILLEGAL SUMOUT, possible hardware failure" and "ILLEGAL SUMOUT, maximum number of warnings passed" I'm setting the vcore to 1.30 now.

EDIT: Okay I'm doing 1.30v but HWMonitor still says the vcore is 1.296v.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Profiles is a very smart way to go...
> Why go all out when you don't need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am not that far... i'm still trying to find my OC's.


took me months to settle on my profiles, literally.. I'm not so much of a stability stickler like some, although a few days ago I decided to let prime 95 run itself out on my undervolted OC just to see if it would pass and it did...... generally I run just an intel burn test for 20 runs and right after that hit it with prime 95, usually if its stable enough to pass that, data loss under normal use is not likely to occur, but then, I have 5 computers and its mostly my gaming system... that, and I've heard of many stock systems failing prime 95 at some point... and for the record, as of yet I haven't had a problem with data loss on my game system even after many suicide runs lol

Thanks for the reply.. and when you settle in on your profiles, if you don't mind send me a pm on what specs you used..who knows I might like one and copy


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ohh that's a shame... i kinda thought/hoped the other way around.
> I think i will get pretty far with my corsair h100 anyway. Just need to cool those mosfets on my gigabyte down. On 4.0 they reach 60c rather quickly.
> 
> But i am happy my chip says 1.325v stock in the bios


I have my fx6300 stable at 4.5ghz, only found the thermalright sb-e extreme air cooler better than the corsair h100, if you havent already got the corsair get a sb-e extreme air cooler with the ty-143 fans, also the voltage could just need a couple more points, not much, about another two nudges up just to stop the last couple of cores failing, but wait till you have the cooler in place

Edit***** sorry just re read and you already have the h100, it was ifusion getting a cooler, the h100 does take away the stock cooling of the vrm's there are some copper mosfet coolers you can ger that just stick on the mosfets and disipate a little heat, think they are enzyme or something, theres a link in the vrm database post for amd boards, or use the fan dfrom the stock cooler and have it blowing air at the vrms, or do both, good luck with it anyway


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> I have my fx6300 stable at 4.5ghz, only found the thermalright sb-e extreme air cooler better than the corsair h100, if you havent already got the corsair get a sb-e extreme air cooler with the ty-143 fans, also the voltage could just need a couple more points, not much, about another two nudges up just to stop the last couple of cores failing, but wait till you have the cooler in place


Just out of curiosity but what vcore did you need? Also, did you have to alter your CPU-NB voltage?

Yeah testing right now. 4.2 GHz at 1.32v on P95 blend. Not sure what voltage range 4.2 ghz falls in for an FX-6300.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Just out of curiosity but what vcore did you need? Also, did you have to alter your CPU-NB voltage?
> 
> Yeah testing right now. 4.2 GHz at 1.32v on P95 blend. Not sure what voltage range 4.2 ghz falls in for an FX-6300.


give me 10 mins ill post pics of my bios settings


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

although this is my stable 4.5 on a m5a99x evo r2.0 an fx6300 and 8gb gskills 1600mhz ram with a thermalright sb-e extreme cooler, yours may need more voltage or a little more fine tuning to be stable but heres a starting point for you


----------



## CannedBullets

I have my CPU-NB set to 2200 mhz also, but the voltage is set to auto and every time I go into the bios it always says 1.18v for the CPU-NB.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I have my CPU-NB set to 2200 mhz also, but the voltage is set to auto and every time I go into the bios it always says 1.18v for the CPU-NB.


I wouldn't know if its going to cause you an issue, just leave it on auto unless you start getting errors and are advised to change it


----------



## truckerguy

With a CPU/NB of 2200MHz a voltage of 1.18 is fine you don't need to bump the CPU/NB voltage till you start to get over 2600MHz and up


----------



## CannedBullets

Yeah I've been P95 blend testing for an hour at 1.32v at 4.2 ghz, not sure when this will fail because 1.32v sounds really low for 4.2 ghz. CPU-NB voltage is set to auto and CPU-NB speed is 2200 mhz.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, I've been on Blend for 3 hours at 1.32v 4.2 ghz. No issues yet but I'm expecting this to fail at any minute, I mean most people seem to need 1.35 - 1.37 for an FX-6300 at 4.2 ghz.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay its over 6 hours on Prime95 Blend on my FX-6300 with 4.2 ghz and 1.32v. No failures yet but I noticed that core 5 can take long to finish tests but there's no issue with that. I'll stop this if it gets to 8 hours without failing.


----------



## CannedBullets

Its normal for Prime95 to only use 34% memory on Blend right?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

34% isn't the thing to know... its the literal amount... the more ram you have the lower the percent of memory it will use on the standard blend test.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> 34% isn't the thing to know... its the literal amount... the more ram you have the lower the percent of memory it will use on the standard blend test.


Oh, well I've got 8 GBs.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Oh, well I've got 8 GBs.


sounds pretty normal then.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Oh, well I've got 8 GBs.


sounds pretty normal then.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

it uses only about 17 % on my desktop, it has 16GB, but to be honest I don't think prime really "uses" that much on that blend test. My laptop has 8 GB ram and I ran prime on it to make sure it could keep its cool... I can't remember exactly what it used on mine though...


----------



## truckerguy

when running a lower CPU/NB speed your not going to use a lot of ram


----------



## Minotaurtoo

well now I know how the double posts I see on here happen... random.. anyway.. hopefully one of the random posts will go the way it came.. poof...


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truckerguy*
> 
> when running a lower CPU/NB speed your not going to use a lot of ram


Yeah I'm not going to overclock the CPU-NB, I'll just leave it at 2200 mhz.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I'm not going to overclock the CPU-NB, I'll just leave it at 2200 mhz.


I think mine on my desktop is 2300mhz


----------



## truckerguy

You get more out of your chip if you push the MC. AMD chips respond better to a OC of the MC becase they use a lot more pipe lines


----------



## CannedBullets

So earlier during the stress test my socket temp was 61 C and my core temp was 51 C, I'm not sure if my ambients got cooler or the tests P95 is running right now are less intensive but my socket temp is 57 C and 46 C for core temp according to HWMonitor.


----------



## CannedBullets

So this was after exactly 10 hours and 17 minutes of P95 Blend at 4.2 ghz. Its crazy how I got 4.2 ghz stable at 1.32v when I saw most people needing 1.36-1.37v to get 4.2 ghz stable. I'll push for 4.5 ghz later in the week after I get a fan over my VRMs.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

All this talk about cooling VRM is making me nervous... How hot can it get on overclocking? How important is it to cool it? I'm currently running an FX-6100 on an M5A99FX PRO R2.0 @ 3.9GHz and I'd like to push for 4.0 GHz.
Also, does it make sense to OC my CPU-NB? What will that change? What might get hotter?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 
> 
> So this was after exactly 10 hours and 17 minutes of P95 Blend at 4.2 ghz. Its crazy how I got 4.2 ghz stable at 1.32v when I saw most people needing 1.36-1.37v to get 4.2 ghz stable. I'll push for 4.5 ghz later in the week after I get a fan over my VRMs.


Just be happy man.
Not every chip is the same.
Called silicon lottery









BTW:
You better use hwinfo64 instead of hwmonitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> All this talk about cooling VRM is making me nervous... How hot can it get on overclocking? How important is it to cool it? I'm currently running an FX-6100 on an M5A99FX PRO R2.0 @ 3.9GHz and I'd like to push for 4.0 GHz.
> Also, does it make sense to OC my CPU-NB? What will that change? What might get hotter?


How hot do your vrm's get now with that clock? You best keep it below 70c. Below 60c would be optimal.

Just play a bit with the cpu-nb. Run some benchmarks(3dmark, heaven) on different settings and compare.
You can get a decent performance increase from upping the cpu-nb.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> All this talk about cooling VRM is making me nervous... How hot can it get on overclocking? How important is it to cool it? I'm currently running an FX-6100 on an M5A99FX PRO R2.0 @ 3.9GHz and I'd like to push for 4.0 GHz.
> Also, does it make sense to OC my CPU-NB? What will that change? What might get hotter?


VRM cooling isn't as important on your setup. With the 6+2 Digi Phase and only running a 6 Core most likely your case airflow alone will be enough to keep it cool. Having a fan on the VRMs is also more important for those running liquid cooling where there is a lack of airflow around the Socket area of the motherboard.
The VRMs on your setup should be good to at least 4.6Ghz without issue. The main thing to look for is the difference between CPU Core Temp and CPU Socket Temp. For a 6 Core if the spread is greater than 10C *when stress testing,* then you need further cooling on the VRMs or on the back of the CPU Socket.

For the FX processors there is no noticeable difference when overclocking the CPU/NB. Since the CPU/NB needs to be greater than or equal to the Ram speed if you were running memory over 2200Mhz then you would need to increase the CPU/NB speed for stability purposes. If you are running benchmarks then increasing the CPU/NB can get you ~1% higher score at the cost of increased temps.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Just be happy man.
> Not every chip is the same.
> Called silicon lottery










I won I won I won


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I won I won I won


Haha.
Look up if you like: Golden chip cpu


----------



## CannedBullets

I noticed it took longer to boot up today from a cold boot also. Nothing in the event viewer though.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Haha.
> Look up if you like: Golden chip cpu


actually I only won on 4 cores for sure and sorta on the rest... I can disable cores 5-8 on my cpu and run 5.1 ghz at 1.42 vcore easy.. haven't tested with prime for hours or nothing... just not that extreme with my stability testing, but I did at least run ITB for 20 runs and Prime on it right after that for about 10 mins on blend... no errors on any core there... I need better cooling to try this, but based on short run stability tests (pushing to the thermal limit and stopping) I believe I can get 5 ghz on all cores at 1.5 -1.55v stable enough to pass the same tests. Question is, for gaming, is it better to have 4 cores @ 5.1 or 8 running @ 4.8ghz (this is my highest OC that will stay cool enough during long gaming runs)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I noticed it took longer to booth up today fro ma cold boot also. Nothing in the event viewer though.


Blend that sucker overnight








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> actually I only won on 4 cores for sure and sorta on the rest... I can disable cores 5-8 on my cpu and run 5.1 ghz at 1.42 vcore easy.. haven't tested with prime for hours or nothing... just not that extreme with my stability testing, but I did at least run ITB for 20 runs and Prime on it right after that for about 10 mins on blend... no errors on any core there... I need better cooling to try this, but based on short run stability tests (pushing to the thermal limit and stopping) I believe I can get 5 ghz on all cores at 1.5 -1.55v stable enough to pass the same tests. Question is, for gaming, is it better to have 4 cores @ 5.1 or 8 running @ 4.8ghz (this is my highest OC that will stay cool enough during long gaming runs)


Really depends on the game you are running. I would say if it is only for gaming go for the 5.1 4-core.
Just run some games and keep task manager or something open to monitor core usage.

But run blend for longer. 10 minutes is nothing to look if it is stable. Do at least 6 hours if u can. Or do IBT on very high for like 10 runs.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Blend that sucker overnight


But I tested for over 10 hours on blend yesterday. Nothing in the Event Viewer also.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Blend that sucker overnight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really depends on the game you are running. I would say if it is only for gaming go for the 5.1 4-core.
> Just run some games and keep task manager or something open to monitor core usage.
> 
> But run blend for longer. 10 minutes is nothing to look if it is stable. Do at least 6 hours if u can. Or do IBT on very high for like 10 runs.


I ran ITB at standard for 20 runs of it...and had prime ready to kick in the instant ITB passed... that way the cpu was good and hot already... I've noticed in the past that if Prime is going to fail anytime soon it usually will do it when the cpu is hot and right after ITB .... oh and I have ran ITB on it at very high before, had it pass, ran prime for 30 seconds and fail on an OC before... illegal sumout error... that's why I run the prime right after ITB... it's just a personal thing, I've found that if they pass that run of ITB with prime right after, they are good for gaming and such.... And for the record... I've ran an experiment before I called the 4.64 experiment... it was an OC that was "unstable" to the point where it would instantly fail.... but it passed ITB for 4 runs...not 5 though... well I ran it for one solid week on this rig... NO blue screens, NO lockups, and NO unexplained program failures! I ran it hard too, the worst games I could think of that I had, benchmarks, etc. Therefore I made this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1410656/q-how-can-i-know-its-stable-a-rofl-stability-is-highly-over-rated

edit: Despite the results of the experiment, I do not advocate purposely running a system that can't pass intel burn test for less than 10 runs.


----------



## Chopper1591

Guys,

Do some of you also sometimes have the issue that when you load up the Windows desktop that the icons take longer to display? Like that they stay white first before changing to the correct image?
Could this be a symptom of instability somewhere?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Guys,
> 
> Do some of you also sometimes have the issue that when you load up the Windows desktop that the icons take longer to display? Like that they stay white first before changing to the correct image?
> Could this be a symptom of instability somewhere?


usually that's a symptom of overloaded hard drive... i.e. too many read/writes going on at once.. not a problem really, it can be pretty common when loading windows especially if you have a lot of startup programs loading in the background.

edit:
I should add that it can be a symptom of a soon to fail hard drive too... or an unstable pcie overclock, I've never known anyone who OC'd their pcie, but I do know that moving that clock over 102mhz can cause hdd read problems as well as write problems.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> usually that's a symptom of overloaded hard drive... i.e. too many read/writes going on at once.. not a problem really, it can be pretty common when loading windows especially if you have a lot of startup programs loading in the background.
> 
> edit:
> I should add that it can be a symptom of a soon to fail hard drive too... or an unstable pcie overclock, I've never known anyone who OC'd their pcie, but I do know that moving that clock over 102mhz can cause hdd read problems as well as write problems.


My desktop is kinda flooded so i keep it at that.
It's only on windows load so i don't mind really. Everything else reacts nice and fast, i don't have the feeling my drive is dying.
My pci-e is at stock but i know which problem you are talking about.

Thanks for the info


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> My desktop is kinda flooded so i keep it at that.
> It's only on windows load so i don't mind really. Everything else reacts nice and fast, i don't have the feeling my drive is dying.
> My pci-e is at stock but i know which problem you are talking about.
> 
> Thanks for the info


glad to help.


----------



## CannedBullets

What are the chances that enabling Core C6 State and CnQ and putting Apm Master Mode on auto will make my overclock unstable? Also, what does Apm Master Mode exactly do?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> What are the chances that enabling Core C6 State and CnQ and putting Apm Master Mode on auto will make my overclock unstable? Also, what does Apm Master Mode exactly do?


Just disable all and see how it works.
Like i said you can use C&C when you are sure you are stable.

I found disabling all savings makes me clock higher. And the voltage is more stable that way.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Just disable all and see how it works.
> Like i said you can use C&C when you are sure you are stable.
> 
> I found disabling all savings makes me clock higher. And the voltage is more stable that way.


Yeah I'm sure I'm stable because I passed P95 blend for ten hours. I already enabled CnQ and Core C6 State and APM Master Mode is on auto now also.

Should it be fine if a VRM fan is covered by an H80i radiator and its fans?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah I'm sure I'm stable because I passed P95 blend for ten hours. I already enabled CnQ and Core C6 State and APM Master Mode is on auto now also.
> 
> Should it be fine if a VRM fan is covered by an H80i radiator and its fans?


How covered is covered?







Picture?
I say as long as the temp's don't get too high your good.

Maybe the noise raises a bit because the fan needs to work harder. But it will get the air through it i guess.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How covered is covered?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture?
> I say as long as the temp's don't get too high your good.
> 
> Maybe the noise raises a bit because the fan needs to work harder. But it will get the air through it i guess.


Covered like you can only see the bottom right corner of the fan.


----------



## CannedBullets

Does anyone else have a VRM fan that gets really loud? I have it set so it only rotates at 60% speed in the bios but its still at 4200 RPM.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Does anyone else have a VRM fan that gets really loud? I have it set so it only rotates at 60% speed in the bios but its still at 4200 RPM.


mine don't get loud except when I'm playing games for a long time... then its loud..but its on auto speed settings and reaches max speed when the vrm's hit 55C


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Does anyone else have a VRM fan that gets really loud? I have it set so it only rotates at 60% speed in the bios but its still at 4200 RPM.


That's because it's covered so much.
Try it out with another fan. Maybe intake. Hold your hand against it at the inside(where it blows towards) you will hear it reving up because it can't push the air away.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> mine don't get loud except when I'm playing games for a long time... then its loud..but its on auto speed settings and reaches max speed when the vrm's hit 55C


That's weird. I set my fan's max speed to 60% in the bios and it still gets to 4200 RPM even when the VRMs are just like 38 C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That's because it's covered so much.
> Try it out with another fan. Maybe intake. Hold your hand against it at the inside(where it blows towards) you will hear it reving up because it can't push the air away.


Yeah the VRM fan is working as an intake fan to blow air onto the VRM heatsink.

I might just unplug it when I get 4.5 GHz stable.


----------



## CannedBullets

Is it safe to put PCIE Bus Frequency on auto?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Is it safe to put PCIE Bus Frequency on auto?


I haven't had any issues running it on auto while increasing the FSB. On a couple Gigabyte board I had it would cause issues unless you manually entered 100 for the PCIe when increasing the FSB.

On the Asus boards I would say it's safe to leave it as Auto.


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I haven't had any issues running it on auto while increasing the FSB. On a couple Gigabyte board I had it would cause issues unless you manually entered 100 for the PCIe when increasing the FSB.
> 
> On the Asus boards I would say it's safe to leave it as Auto.


Well I've had this issue so I set it to 100.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1415986/screen-just-went-blank-what-could-it-be-cpu-gpu-motherboard#post_20549031


----------



## brett387

thanks alot for the guide!

was wondering if anyone could help me with this problem. i have an asus m5a97 motherboard, the bios version is 1605. some of the power settings like the Cool'n'Quiet, c1e, svm, core c6 state, hpc mode, and amp master mode, will just dissapear when i would go back into my bios to go a litttle further for overclocking. right now, all i see is the core c6state, hpc mode and apm master mode.

after i chaged all of them, i saved, and exited the bios. but when i went back into the bios, they i only saw 3, and the settings where set back to default

also, the cpu llc, i only see auto, disabled, enabled. is there a way i can change the setting to what it says? like ultra high (75%)?

if anyone can help me thank you so much.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> thanks alot for the guide!
> 
> was wondering if anyone could help me with this problem. i have an asus m5a97 motherboard, the bios version is 1605. some of the power settings like the Cool'n'Quiet, c1e, svm, core c6 state, hpc mode, and amp master mode, will just dissapear when i would go back into my bios to go a litttle further for overclocking. right now, all i see is the core c6state, hpc mode and apm master mode.
> 
> after i chaged all of them, i saved, and exited the bios. but when i went back into the bios, they i only saw 3, and the settings where set back to default
> 
> also, the cpu llc, i only see auto, disabled, enabled. is there a way i can change the setting to what it says? like ultra high (75%)?
> 
> if anyone can help me thank you so much.


The M5A97 only has those options of LLC. I made a special section in my Guide about them, because depending on the board LLC will not work properly on Auto, Enabled. So watch for that when you start overclocking. You may have to use one or the other.

As for your Power Saving features not showing up. I'm not 100% about that, but it may be linked to whether or not you have Turbo Enabled, or are using Manual or Offset Voltages. I believe some of the settings only work with Turbo Enabled or when using Offset Voltages. I didn't delve too deply on which ones exactly, but that could be the cause of them not showing up in the BIOS.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> The M5A97 only has those options of LLC. I made a special section in my Guide about them, because depending on the board LLC will not work properly on Auto, Enabled. So watch for that when you start overclocking. You may have to use one or the other.
> 
> As for your Power Saving features not showing up. I'm not 100% about that, but it may be linked to whether or not you have Turbo Enabled, or are using Manual or Offset Voltages. I believe some of the settings only work with Turbo Enabled or when using Offset Voltages. I didn't delve too deply on which ones exactly, but that could be the cause of them not showing up in the BIOS.


oh duh... sorry, didnt see that part there till now.

you were 100% right, i changed the cpu and nb voltage from manual, to offset mode, and the rest of the options reappeared. thank you!


----------



## iFreeStylin

you were 100% right, i changed the cpu and nb voltage from manual, to offset mode, and the rest of the options reappeared. thank you![/quote]

I have the same Mobo as you and LLC should be on Enable, if you leave it on auto you will get Vdrops. Setting it to enable will increase voltage by about 0.024 under load from what you set in bios. I have my Vcore at 1.428 and under load it goes up to 1.452 with LLC enable. As he said before, if you switched to manually voltage you will lose CnQ, that's why I use offset.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> I have the same Mobo as you and LLC should be on Enable, if you leave it on auto you will get Vdrops. Setting it to enable will increase voltage by about 0.024 under load from what you set in bios. I have my Vcore at 1.428 and under load it goes up to 1.452 with LLC enable. As he said before, if you switched to manually voltage you will lose CnQ, that's why I use offset.


okay, ill enable the llc next time i go into the bios, which wont be long. what cpu do you have? i just dont want to push my voltage up too high. i think im going ot keep it just a bit under 1.45. i can get an overclock of around 4.4Ghz at around 1.38 max with llc on auto. but the past .4Volts i have been having to step the voltage up quite a bit just to get an extra .1Ghz.

which is better, manual or offset?


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> okay, ill enable the llc next time i go into the bios, which wont be long. what cpu do you have? i just dont want to push my voltage up too high. i think im going ot keep it just a bit under 1.45. i can get an overclock of around 4.4Ghz at around 1.38 max with llc on auto. but the past .4Volts i have been having to step the voltage up quite a bit just to get an extra .1Ghz.
> 
> which is better, manual or offset?


Am using the FX 6300 and is Currently OC to 4.5Ghz. As for which is better idk but in our case (since we have the Asus M5A97) offset is better because after you get to your stable OC enabling CnQ will save some energy. what cooler you using? and the OP states max safe is 1.5


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Am using the FX 6300 and is Currently OC to 4.5Ghz. As for which is better idk but in our case (since we have the Asus M5A97) offset is better because after you get to your stable OC enabling CnQ will save some energy. what cooler you using? and the OP states max safe is 1.5


wow, nice overclock! what voltage do you have it set at? i probably dont plan on upgrading for at least a couple more years, so is 1.5v good for 24/7 use? thanks!

okay, ill have to get used to using the offset then, no biggy. the cooler im using is the hyper n520. even under around 4.4Ghz and like 1.4V under full load, its never went above 122F. (50C?) its a very good cooler, very impressed with it.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> wow, nice overclock! what voltage do you have it set at? i probably dont plan on upgrading for at least a couple more years, so is 1.5v good for 24/7 use? thanks!
> 
> okay, ill have to get used to using the offset then, no biggy. the cooler im using is the hyper n520. even under around 4.4Ghz and like 1.4V under full load, its never went above 122F. (50C?) its a very good cooler, very impressed with it.


I would say its safe for 24/7 as long as you stay under the max safe temps. Am using 1.452 for my 4.5Ghz OC and its being cool by Corsair H60. Am gonna lower my OC to about 4.3ghz or so until it gets closer to winter or i get a better cooler although i also have the cooler master hyper 212 plus which keeps my CPU About 5 degrees cooler than my H60.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> I would say its safe for 24/7 as long as you stay under the max safe temps. Am using 1.452 for my 4.5Ghz OC and its being cool by Corsair H60. Am gonna lower my OC to about 4.3ghz or so until it gets closer to winter or i get a better cooler although i also have the cooler master hyper 212 plus which keeps my CPU About 5 degrees cooler than my H60.


okay, awesome. i know theres people that say that they have had there cpu at 1.5Volts, but i wasent sure if it was 24/7 safe. i would say the H60 is queiter than the hyper 212?


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> okay, awesome. i know theres people that say that they have had there cpu at 1.5Volts, but i wasent sure if it was 24/7 safe. i would say the H60 is queiter than the hyper 212?


The pump it self is pretty quiet. The fan that came with it i think is defective because it runs at a constant 1900 RPM. I contact corsair and hopefully i can get a new fan. with that cooler you should be able to hit 4.6ghz pretty easily! if you need any help am here. you have the FX 6300 too right?


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> The pump it self is pretty quiet. The fan that came with it i think is defective because it runs at a constant 1900 RPM. I contact corsair and hopefully i can get a new fan. with that cooler you should be able to hit 4.6ghz pretty easily! if you need any help am here. you have the FX 6300 too right?


is the fan a 3 or 4pin? if its a 3pin, it will only go one speed. im just bearly hitting 4.6Ghz, but i gotta go above 1.45Volts. i got teh fx 4100. i might need help, but right now i think its just up to me to mess with the settings and see which is better.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> is the fan a 3 or 4pin? if its a 3pin, it will only go one speed. im just bearly hitting 4.6Ghz, but i gotta go above 1.45Volts. i got teh fx 4100. i might need help, but right now i think its just up to me to mess with the settings and see which is better.


no, the fan is 4pin and its plug into my CPU fan header. I know my fan header works cause it has no problem controlling my hyper 212 4pin fan.
you say your using 1.440 for 4.4ghz? if so then thats pretty much similar to what my CPU uses. How do you go about stress testing? i figure i'll need about 1.475 to get 4.6ghz stable on my CPU.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> no, the fan is 4pin and its plug into my CPU fan header. I know my fan header works cause it has no problem controlling my hyper 212 4pin fan.
> you say your using 1.440 for 4.4ghz? if so then thats pretty much similar to what my CPU uses. How do you go about stress testing? i figure i'll need about 1.475 to get 4.6ghz stable on my CPU.


ohhhh okay i see. yeah the fan might be defective, the part that tells the motherboard its rpm might be dead, which could be why its running at 1900RPM. i use prime 95 for about 10minutes to see if its stable for quick, and then if so, go overclock some more. for long term stable overclock, i use amd overdrive's stability test thing for at least an hour, or i use intel burntest to ensure its stable.

i think i may have been using 1.44 or 1.45 to get a kind stable 4.6Ghz.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> ohhhh okay i see. yeah the fan might be defective, the part that tells the motherboard its rpm might be dead, which could be why its running at 1900RPM. i use prime 95 for about 10minutes to see if its stable for quick, and then if so, go overclock some more. for long term stable overclock, i use amd overdrive's stability test thing for at least an hour, or i use intel burntest to ensure its stable.
> 
> i think i may have been using 1.44 or 1.45 to get a kind stable 4.6Ghz.


Well i did 8hrs of P95 on custom settings with 6GB of my ram and had no errors, also i like to do at least 1hr with OCCT just to make sure. From doing a lot of research on stress testing software, i dont think IBT its a good choice. Most people says what its really does is push your temps more than any other software. I normally do 10 minutes of small fft on prime then when i get to my desire Clock i'll do about an hour of small fft and when i have the time 8hrs of custom test with 75% of my ram.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Well i did 8hrs of P95 on custom settings with 6GB of my ram and had no errors, also i like to do at least 1hr with OCCT just to make sure. From doing a lot of research on stress testing software, i dont think IBT its a good choice. Most people says what its really does is push your temps more than any other software. I normally do 10 minutes of small fft on prime then when i get to my desire Clock i'll do about an hour of small fft and when i have the time 8hrs of custom test with 75% of my ram.


hmmm sounds very good testing. OCCT is a stress testing program? never heard of it, what do you think of it? IBT is alright, it just seems like its too simple. whats the purpose of using so much ram for P95?


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> hmmm sounds very good testing. OCCT is a stress testing program? never heard of it, what do you think of it? IBT is alright, it just seems like its too simple. whats the purpose of using so much ram for P95?


Yes OCCT is a stress testing software, much like prime but I find it detects errors much faster. I can do 30 min of prime small fft but fails in under a minute using OCCT. As for ram, that's what this guide recommends. I know games don't use that much ram but I also some video editing which can use a lot more ram than games.
I have use IBT before and past 20 runs on very high settings but failed Prime and OCCT


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Yes OCCT is a stress testing software, much like prime but I find it detects errors much faster. I can do 30 min of prime small fft but fails in under a minute using OCCT. As for ram, that's what this guide recommends. I know games don't use that much ram but I also some video editing which can use a lot more ram than games.
> I have use IBT before and past 20 runs on very high settings but failed Prime and OCCT


ahhhh okay i see. is there a way i can stop my cpu from trottling while on load, but off of load, it wont throttle. is it possible to do that while conserving energy, so its not 4.5ghz and 1.4v the whole time?


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> ahhhh okay i see. is there a way i can stop my cpu from trottling while on load, but off of load, it wont throttle. is it possible to do that while conserving energy, so its not 4.5ghz and 1.4v the whole time?


Your saying under load your CPU undeclocks, Is this the clock speed or voltage? Set cool and quiet to enable (CnQ) for this, you need to be using offset voltage mood. Also you can enable C1e and C6 state to conserve more energy but don't try to overclock with any of these on enable. I tried to test my CPU with all power saving enable and it failed prime but works fine doing what I do with it.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Your saying under load your CPU undeclocks, Is this the clock speed or voltage? Set cool and quiet to enable (CnQ) for this, you need to be using offset voltage mood. Also you can enable C1e and C6 state to conserve more energy but don't try to overclock with any of these on enable. I tried to test my CPU with all power saving enable and it failed prime but works fine doing what I do with it.


under load, it will underclock, and undervolt. with no load on it, it will stay the same clock speed, and around the same voltage. thats what i have been using since last night.

i just disabled all of the power saving things, and ill see what it does. it would apear that it stopped, when they are disabled.

if i renable them again, it would start throttling again.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> under load, it will underclock, and undervolt. with no load on it, it will stay the same clock speed, and around the same voltage. thats what i have been using since last night.
> 
> i just disabled all of the power saving things, and ill see what it does. it would apear that it stopped, when they are disabled.
> 
> if i renable them again, it would start throttling again.


Your saying with CnQ enable your CPU does not underclock at idle? What is APM set to? Try enable cool and Quiet only and double check your temps


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Your saying with CnQ enable your CPU does not underclock at idle? What is APM set to? Try enable cool and Quiet only and double check your temps


i had CnQ enabled, and it would underclock to save energy during idle, but when i was stress testing, it would throttle. i had all of them enabled.

i went through and disabled all of them for now. so far i got 4.6Ghz at 1.476Volts stable. i think its going to stay there, the temps are a fair, maxxed out around 134F (57C). im just afraid that if i go and enable the power saving settings, the voltage is going ot go higher than it was, or its going to thottle.

wait... i have CnQ only enabled, and its not throttling. maybe its not CnQ... i have the other settings disabled.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> i had CnQ enabled, and it would underclock to save energy during idle, but when i was stress testing, it would throttle. i had all of them enabled.
> 
> i went through and disabled all of them for now. so far i got 4.6Ghz at 1.476Volts stable. i think its going to stay there, the temps are a fair, maxxed out around 134F (57C). im just afraid that if i go and enable the power saving settings, the voltage is going ot go higher than it was, or its going to thottle.
> 
> wait... i have CnQ only enabled, and its not throttling. maybe its not CnQ... i have the other settings disabled.


So I take it CnQ is working now? And I think the problem is APM master mode. If you have it enable and voltage go above the max limit for turbo core, it will throttle your CPU. Temps are looking good. Since you have the 4 core CPU, you might can get to 4.7 using 1.475 or maybe even higher, keep adding 100mhz and do 10 of prime95 small fft and tell me when it failes


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> So I take it CnQ is working now? And I think the problem is APM master mode. If you have it enable and voltage go above the max limit for turbo core, it will throttle your CPU. Temps are looking good. Since you have the 4 core CPU, you might can get to 4.7 using 1.475 or maybe even higher, keep adding 100mhz and do 10 of prime95 small fft and tell me when it failes


yeah its working now, i guess it must have been the APM. should have APM enabled after im done overclocking? or just leave it disabled? ill keep pushing it and see how far it goes. 5Ghz is getting close... lol.

nope, it crashed at 4.7. would increasing the CPU/NB offset voltage affect how stable it is?


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> yeah its working now, i guess it must have been the APM. should have APM enabled after im done overclocking? or just leave it disabled? ill keep pushing it and see how far it goes. 5Ghz is getting close... lol.
> 
> nope, it crashed at 4.7. would increasing the CPU/NB offset voltage affect how stable it is?


If you enable APM and it's throttle your CPU then leave it disable, it's not really a power saving feature. Did it say core fails or BSOD? What's you NB frequency at? You can set voltage between 1.23-1.3. I have mines set at 1.25


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> If you enable APM and it's throttle your CPU then leave it disable, it's not really a power saving feature. Did it say core fails or BSOD? What's you NB frequency at? You can set voltage between 1.23-1.3. I have mines set at 1.25


i tried to overclock to 4.7Ghz at the same voltage, i think 1.476volts and it crashed. ill stop raising the voltage a bit under 1.5 and see what i can get. i might get lucky. doubt it though. but we will see.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> i tried to overclock to 4.7Ghz at the same voltage, i think 1.476volts and it crashed. ill stop raising the voltage a bit under 1.5 and see what i can get. i might get lucky. doubt it though. but we will see.


Cool just let me know. What's the rest of your setup and what games you play?


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Cool just let me know. What's the rest of your setup and what games you play?


had to boost it to 1.5V on the dot, to get 4.7Ghz stable. minecraft, tekkit, left 4 2, killing floor. orion dino beatdown, those are the ones i got on my computer so far. i got gtx 560 for a graphics card, 530w PSU, and for the most part, you already know the cpu, cooler, and motherboard, lol. i think im going to back it down to 4.6 and lower the voltage.

idk if it should be or not, but i got cpu llc, and cpu/nb llc both enabled, should i put them on auto? cause i know they will change the voltage going to the cpu.


----------



## CannedBullets

This was after 10 hours of Prime95 blend. The highest the socket temp got was 61 C but it could have been higher (65-67 C maybe) if I didn't have a fan over the VRM heatsink. The core temp went to 63 C a few times during the test though.

Yeah its at 1.42v and 4.5 ghz.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> had to boost it to 1.5V on the dot, to get 4.7Ghz stable. minecraft, tekkit, left 4 2, killing floor. orion dino beatdown, those are the ones i got on my computer so far. i got gtx 560 for a graphics card, 530w PSU, and for the most part, you already know the cpu, cooler, and motherboard, lol. i think im going to back it down to 4.6 and lower the voltage.
> 
> idk if it should be or not, but i got cpu llc, and cpu/nb llc both enabled, should i put them on auto? cause i know they will change the voltage going to the cpu.


Leave LLC on enable so you don't get Vdrops. If your Vcore shows 1.43 in bios under load it will go up to 1.452


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> 
> 
> This was after 10 hours of Prime95 blend. The highest the socket temp got was 61 C but it could have been higher (65-67 C maybe) if I didn't have a fan over the VRM heatsink. The core temp went to 63 C a few times during the test though.
> 
> Yeah its at 1.42v and 4.5 ghz.


Nice OC, that's one good chip you got there.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Leave LLC on enable so you don't get Vdrops. If your Vcore shows 1.43 in bios under load it will go up to 1.452


okay. do you know why the cpu offset voltage changes everytime i go into the bios?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Nice OC, that's one good chip you got there.


Yeah, I just played Skyrim for an hour and 9 minutes, the highest the core and socket temp got was 50 C.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> okay. do you know why the cpu offset voltage changes everytime i go into the bios?


That shouldn't happen, what bios version you on?


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> That shouldn't happen, what bios version you on?


the latest one, i just updated it like a couple days ago. 1605. is it because im in offset mode?


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> Yeah, I just played Skyrim for an hour and 9 minutes, the highest the core and socket temp got was 50 C.


I hit 55c on the core when playing BF3 but my Vcore is at 1.45. What cooler you using? And what's the rest of your setup. Am using my phone at work so I can't see much


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> the latest one, i just updated it like a couple days ago. 1605. is it because im in offset mode?


Am still on 1602 and I have never notice any change to the offset voltage that I haven't done. Do your Vcore also change? In bios and in windows?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> I hit 55c on the core when playing BF3 but my Vcore is at 1.45. What cooler you using? And what's the rest of your setup. Am using my phone at work so I can't see much


I've got an H80i, the rest of my specs are in my sig. I'm going to upgrade to a Corsair C70 and H100i sometime next week though.

Yeah it looks like my socket temp idles at around 43 C after a gaming session.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Am still on 1602 and I have never notice any change to the offset voltage that I haven't done. Do your Vcore also change? In bios and in windows?


yeah, most likly. almost everytime i go to change the voltage for stability issues, it changes, around .03-.04v up or down. should i downgrade the bios version and see if it makes a difference?


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> I've got an H80i, the rest of my specs are in my sig. I'm going to upgrade to a Corsair C70 and H100i sometime next week though.
> 
> Yeah it looks like my socket temp idles at around 43 C after a gaming session.


Oh cool. Am getting the 500r and doing a window mod on it. Do you have CnQ enable? Cause my socket temps idles at 35c.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> yeah, most likly. almost everytime i go to change the voltage for stability issues, it changes, around .03-.04v up or down. should i downgrade the bios version and see if it makes a difference?


what changes exactly? can you take a pic and show me?


----------



## CannedBullets

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Oh cool. Am getting the 500r and doing a window mod on it. Do you have CnQ enable? Cause my socket temps idles at 35c.


No I don't have any C states enabled. Should I enable some C-states and set windows to balanced mode? Its on performance mode.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> what changes exactly? can you take a pic and show me?


when i would go to change the cpu voltage, to 1.393750, the one to the left of it says 1.416. and when i go to boot and do a stress test, cpuz, and hwmonitor would show like 1.46v. i use cpuz and hwmonitor to check temps and voltages. i have cpu llc enabled.

p.s. thats about exactly what the voltages are. i went to the manual mode because i thought i liked it more and it seemed more straight forward.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> when i would go to change the cpu voltage, to 1.393750, the one to the left of it says 1.416. and when i go to boot and do a stress test, cpuz, and hwmonitor would show like 1.46v. i use cpuz and hwmonitor to check temps and voltages. i have cpu llc enabled.
> 
> p.s. thats about exactly what the voltages are. i went to the manual mode because i thought i liked it more and it seemed more straight forward.


Thats perfectly normal. what your seeing is the LLC doing its job by increasing your Vcore underload. Also set the NB LLC to auto, i would recommended you get use to using offset mode if you want to save energy when your not gaming.


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CannedBullets*
> 
> No I don't have any C states enabled. Should I enable some C-states and set windows to balanced mode? Its on performance mode.


If you dont want your CPU and 4.5ghz when your not gaming then enable CnQ. the rest is optional, C1e and C6 just helps out CnQ to save more energy. Keep your computer on performance. i doubt it would make much difference in power consumption.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Thats perfectly normal. what your seeing is the LLC doing its job by increasing your Vcore underload. Also set the NB LLC to auto, i would recommended you get use to using offset mode if you want to save energy when your not gaming.


ohh okay. it just seemed weird that it kept changing when i went into it. okay, thanks!


----------



## iFreeStylin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brett387*
> 
> ohh okay. it just seemed weird that it kept changing when i went into it. okay, thanks!


Np man just mess around with it, you'll get use to it.


----------



## brett387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iFreeStylin*
> 
> Np man just mess around with it, you'll get use to it.


yeah thats all it will take is some time to get used to it. thanks again for your help!


----------



## CannedBullets

So does anyone else leave their CPU-NB voltage on auto? My FX-6300 at 4.5 GHz is at 2200 mhz NB speed and when its set to auto it says 1.18v in the bios. HwInfo64 says its 1.18v also but it also says my core voltage is 1.3 even though its set to 1.42v so I doubt its accurate.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

What all does overclocking the northbridge do? I'm up 400 MHz from 2 GHz but I don't exactly know what I'm gaining.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> What all does overclocking the northbridge do? I'm up 400 MHz from 2 GHz but I don't exactly know what I'm gaining.


On the FX processors all you are really gaining is extra heat and power usage. The IMC/L3 cache is not a bottleneck on these processors like it was when overclocking the Phenom II series.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Back to stock it is then. Thanks!


----------



## thrux

Hey guys, first post, and first serious rig for me. I've been gaming on laptops throughout college and now I have a new set-up, 2nd PC built for me, but the last one was 10 years ago!

I have an FX8350 on an M599FX pro 2.0 board, cooling with a hyper 212 with one fan. I've started OCing using the multiplier method and using this guide. Undervolting (for temperature reasons) have hit 4214 MHz at 1.308V stable. Any less voltage, and I start dropping cores in P95. More volts/multiplier, and I reach 72C on the socket. I have flipped my top case fan over to blow on the VRMs, and that has allowed me to get where I am. Is there something wrong with my case flow? I have two fans blowing into the case at the front, one blowing out the rear at the top, and the top case fan blowing in. I am thinking I need to move one of the front fans to the side of the case to pull air out from the GPU/power supply. Would re-applying thermal paste help? The Hyper is mounted with the radiator in the vertical position.

Any suggestions on improving cooling? Thanks for the help guys!


----------



## FatedFrenzy

What thermal paste are you using? I've personally learned when trying to build a power rig, its a must to buy some high end paste. I use Arctic Silver 5 myself and I know there many others that people swear by and have had success with.

72 does seem high. I reach a max of 59 at 4.63 GHz with 1.46v (using a closed loop). I would say if you're not using a good paste, get some and reapply. If you are using a good paste, reapply anyways. Make sure you fill in the cracks of the heatsink (credit card method) and then apply just a BB sized drop on the CPU itself.

If that doesn't work, I would look into other CPU coolers.


----------



## thrux

I'm using the one that came with the hyper 212. I'll pick up some AS and re-do the paste tonight. I used the CC method, but only applied to the CPU. I'll post results. Thanks!


----------



## wntrsnowg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> What all does overclocking the northbridge do? I'm up 400 MHz from 2 GHz but I don't exactly know what I'm gaining.
> 
> 
> 
> On the FX processors all you are really gaining is extra heat and power usage. The IMC/L3 cache is not a bottleneck on these processors like it was when overclocking the Phenom II series.
Click to expand...

So its not worth it to OC the nb? On my 8350 I have mine at 2600 right now at 1.35V and it seems to have upped my maxxmem2 score


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wntrsnowg*
> 
> So its not worth it to OC the nb? On my 8350 I have mine at 2600 right now at 1.35V and it seems to have upped my maxxmem2 score


I have noticed it does provide slight increase in physics scores (around 200-300). But it does make my system unstable anything around 2500-2600.


----------



## CannedBullets

Okay, wow. I altered my ini files on Planetside 2 (quite possibly the most poorly coded game in existence) after I installed it today and with my FX-6300 overclocked to 4.5 GHz I'm getting 150 FPS at the Warp Gate when I was getting 50-60 at stock speeds. That is crazy how much of a performance increase you get in CPU intensive games like Planetside 2.

Yeah I only tested at the Warpgate, I haven't been in combat yet.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thrux*
> 
> Hey guys, first post, and first serious rig for me. I've been gaming on laptops throughout college and now I have a new set-up, 2nd PC built for me, but the last one was 10 years ago!
> 
> I have an FX8350 on an M599FX pro 2.0 board, cooling with a hyper 212 with one fan. I've started OCing using the multiplier method and using this guide. Undervolting (for temperature reasons) have hit 4214 MHz at 1.308V stable. Any less voltage, and I start dropping cores in P95. More volts/multiplier, and I reach 72C on the socket. I have flipped my top case fan over to blow on the VRMs, and that has allowed me to get where I am. Is there something wrong with my case flow? I have two fans blowing into the case at the front, one blowing out the rear at the top, and the top case fan blowing in. I am thinking I need to move one of the front fans to the side of the case to pull air out from the GPU/power supply. Would re-applying thermal paste help? The Hyper is mounted with the radiator in the vertical position.
> 
> Any suggestions on improving cooling? Thanks for the help guys!


Is your CPU cooler a Hyper 212, or a Hyper 212 Evo?

As for your temps, the best way to look at it is the difference between Core Temp and Socket temp when running Prime95. With an 8 Core CPU the socket temp should be 10-15C higher than Core temp. If your Socket temp is more than 15C above Core temp, then take the back panel off your case and have a fan blowing on the back of the socket. If the socket temp doesn't drop the reasonable levels, then you need either a better CPU cooler or the seating just isn't good.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

So I've been trying to stabilize 4GHz on my FX-6100 and noticed something odd during testing. I ran Blend for 3.5 hours until I had to stop. All the cores ran perfectly all this time. Later on, I left Blen running overnight. When I woke up, I saw that one core had failed at 2 hours and 47 minutes. Why did my CPU last longer during the first test with the exact same settings?
Also, while trying to get 3.9GHz stable I tried increasing the VDDA voltage. I didn't go all the way up, just up to 2.6v at first. However, that actually decreased my stability rather than increase it. Again, why is this happening?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> So I've been trying to stabilize 4GHz on my FX-6100 and noticed something odd during testing. I ran Blend for 3.5 hours until I had to stop. All the cores ran perfectly all this time. Later on, I left Blen running overnight. When I woke up, I saw that one core had failed at 2 hours and 47 minutes. Why did my CPU last longer during the first test with the exact same settings?
> Also, while trying to get 3.9GHz stable I tried increasing the VDDA voltage. I didn't go all the way up, just up to 2.6v at first. However, that actually decreased my stability rather than increase it. Again, why is this happening?


There are too many factors to be able to tell you exactly why Blend failed, without a bunch more information. It could be as simple as the VRM switching frequency wasn't quite fast enough when Prime changed tests, or you are just on the limit for CPU voltage to keep it stable.

For VDDA voltage, from the testing I did on it on the Asus boards with LLC. Increasing it seemed to increase vdroop on the CPU voltage, but the voltage was slightly more consistent. (less fluctuations) It seems to operate differently depending on the board manufacturer. If you were right on the edge of stability for cpu voltage and increased the VDDA - which in turn increased your cpu vdroop, then that would explain the less stable operation. Long story short - MOAR voltage needed.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> So I've been trying to stabilize 4GHz on my FX-6100 and noticed something odd during testing. I ran Blend for 3.5 hours until I had to stop. All the cores ran perfectly all this time. Later on, I left Blen running overnight. When I woke up, I saw that one core had failed at 2 hours and 47 minutes. Why did my CPU last longer during the first test with the exact same settings?
> Also, while trying to get 3.9GHz stable I tried increasing the VDDA voltage. I didn't go all the way up, just up to 2.6v at first. However, that actually decreased my stability rather than increase it. Again, why is this happening?


What voltage are you at for 4.0? I have a fx 6100 and was able to get 4.4 @ 1.38v stable,I'm no pro but you should be almost at stock voltage.
I've never messed with VDDA,so I don't know about that.I've ran P95 blend for 2 hours,3Dmark and intel burn test several times with no issues,so you should at least be able to
get to 4.4.
Be sure to run small FFT's in between each multi.for 10-15min.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> What voltage are you at for 4.0? I have a fx 6100 and was able to get 4.4 @ 1.38v stable,I'm no pro but you should be almost at stock voltage.
> I've never messed with VDDA,so I don't know about that.I've ran P95 blend for 2 hours,3Dmark and intel burn test several times with no issues,so you should at least be able to
> get to 4.4.
> Be sure to run small FFT's in between each multi.for 10-15min.


Currently at 1.332v (stock was 1.212v so quite far from it). Not quite sure about stability as my last overnight test was interrupted by a Windows update forcing an automatic update.







My socket temp is already touching 60C, so I'm not sure how much further I dare go... Arctic A30 isn't exactly a high-performance cooler. Also, which MB/cooler are you using? And have you re-enabled Turbo Core at your current OC? Good to meet a fellow FX-6100 owner.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Currently at 1.332v (stock was 1.212v so quite far from it). Not quite sure about stability as my last overnight test was interrupted by a Windows update forcing an automatic update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My socket temp is already touching 60C, so I'm not sure how much further I dare go... Arctic A30 isn't exactly a high-performance cooler. Also, which MB/cooler are you using? And have you re-enabled Turbo Core at your current OC? Good to meet a fellow FX-6100 owner.


How long do you have the chip?
Maybe you will be able to sell it and get an fx-6300.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Ok on full load via P95 after several hours my CPU temp is a steady 66-68C, my Package temps 53-55C and never seem to go beyond this.

Im running P95 on blended, OC is at 4.3GHz,
FSB 200 (I don't touch that)
multiplier is set to 21.5
CPU voltage is set to 1.40
System is set to D.O.C.P. (matches the ram timings as per G.SKILL to the letter)

Is this too hot? I was really hoping to get to 4.8 but that doesn't look too promising if Im already at these temps at only 4.3GHz....


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How long do you have the chip?
> Maybe you will be able to sell it and get an fx-6300.


I don't really see the need to bother myself with that. I have no complaints about my FX-6100. Handles everything I throw at it without issues even on stock settings. I'm really only overclocking for my own entretainment.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Currently at 1.332v (stock was 1.212v so quite far from it). Not quite sure about stability as my last overnight test was interrupted by a Windows update forcing an automatic update.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My socket temp is already touching 60C, so I'm not sure how much further I dare go... Arctic A30 isn't exactly a high-performance cooler. Also, which MB/cooler are you using? And have you re-enabled Turbo Core at your current OC? Good to meet a fellow FX-6100 owner.




Using a ANTEC Kuler H20 920 in push pull,it does pretty well,have not enabled Turbo,not sure if I'm done OCing.Will most likely upgrade my chip to at least a 8320 in the near future though.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Ok on full load via P95 after several hours my CPU temp is a steady 66-68C, my Package temps 53-55C and never seem to go beyond this.
> 
> Im running P95 on blended, OC is at 4.3GHz,
> FSB 200 (I don't touch that)
> multiplier is set to 21.5
> CPU voltage is set to 1.40
> System is set to D.O.C.P. (matches the ram timings as per G.SKILL to the letter)
> 
> Is this too hot? I was really hoping to get to 4.8 but that doesn't look too promising if Im already at these temps at only 4.3GHz....


Nice rig. I'll see what I can do to help you out, because you should be able to get a decent OC out of those parts.

1st - Is 1.4v your voltage with Turbo disabled? Once you make sure you are running the CPU voltage as low as possible while still keeping full stability (generally 4.5Ghz for an 8350 @ base voltage with Turbo off) then you can look at your temps again. You should be able to hit 4.5Ghz with mid 50 temps on that cooler. If they are still high, then either your case airflow needs to be tweaked, or your CPU block is not seated well enough.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> I don't really see the need to bother myself with that. I have no complaints about my FX-6100. Handles everything I throw at it without issues even on stock settings. I'm really only overclocking for my own entretainment.


My bad.
If it is for the fun only, play on.








Me myself also find it kinda fun to overclock. I see it sort of as an puzzle.

I thought it was your goal to go higher, i just wanted to make clear that the x3xx chips overclock much better than the x1xx chips.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> My bad.
> If it is for the fun only, play on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Me myself also find it kinda fun to overclock. I see it sort of as an puzzle.
> 
> I thought it was your goal to go higher, i just wanted to make clear that the x3xx chips overclock much better than the x1xx chips.


Well I wouldn't mind getting some practice with a newer chip. Just can't afford upgrading as fast as new chips come out. Though I do it for fun only, I do still want to do it as best I can.

4.0GHz is stable at 1.332v with a maximum socket temp of 59C. Not sure if I should push the temps higher and overclock further or leave it as it is and try to see what extra Turbo Core will give me. Later I might see what my RAM can handle and perhaps try to lower the CPU ratio while turning up the FSB. Not sure if it actually makes a difference, but hey, at least I won't be bored for a while.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Well I wouldn't mind getting some practice with a newer chip. Just can't afford upgrading as fast as new chips come out. Though I do it for fun only, I do still want to do it as best I can.
> 
> 4.0GHz is stable at 1.332v with a maximum socket temp of 59C. Not sure if I should push the temps higher and overclock further or leave it as it is and try to see what extra Turbo Core will give me. Later I might see what my RAM can handle and perhaps try to lower the CPU ratio while turning up the FSB. Not sure if it actually makes a difference, but hey, at least I won't be bored for a while.


Get some benchmarking software man.
If u speculate you will most likely not see the difference.

Numbers is what you want


----------



## LifeDisturbens

I have some questions regarding overclocking with my 8320.

Now it's running what i think is stable, i basicly have no idea since i'm new to this.
Anyways, when i change the Volt in bios it's on 1.397500. And when i check the Volt when running Prime95 or just in Idle the Volt displays 1.4v. What does this Volt increase mean?

The clock is at the moment 4.3 Ghz.

Also: What cooler should i go? I have the 212 EVO now without PnP, and well. It's basicly making the CPU run 36-38 Idle and 56-58 load wich i think is a little bit to high. Should i get the PnP function + new fans or should i get a new CPU cooler?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The idle temps are as usual with AMD broken. So don't mind them.
Also, i havent done the long Prime95 test. When i tested Prime over 4.3 Ghz one of the cores. (Always core 6) failed during 6-7 minutes in the short test. I figured it out that i couldn't turn up the volt more because the heat was already at 60.

AND. What is a good and stable clock for gaming? I'm using a Sapphire Radeon 7970 Vapor-X 1050/1500 3GB. And i'm pretty pissed since many games are staggering behinde with the 3.8 Ghz boost setting. (And my Nvidia/Intel friend keeps nagging me about this).

Everything is mounted in a CM Haf x Big Tower and uses a Sabertooth 990FX r2.0.

I really need help with this, i've had so many problems with this PC i think i'm going nuts.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LifeDisturbens*
> 
> I have some questions regarding overclocking with my 8320.
> 
> Now it's running what i think is stable, i basicly have no idea since i'm new to this.
> Anyways, when i change the Volt in bios it's on 1.397500. And when i check the Volt when running Prime95 or just in Idle the Volt displays 1.4v. What does this Volt increase mean?
> 
> The clock is at the moment 4.3 Ghz.
> 
> Also: What cooler should i go? I have the 212 EVO now without PnP, and well. It's basicly making the CPU run 36-38 Idle and 56-58 load wich i think is a little bit to high. Should i get the PnP function + new fans or should i get a new CPU cooler?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The idle temps are as usual with AMD broken. So don't mind them.
> Also, i havent done the long Prime95 test. When i tested Prime over 4.3 Ghz one of the cores. (Always core 6) failed during 6-7 minutes in the short test. I figured it out that i couldn't turn up the volt more because the heat was already at 60.
> 
> AND. What is a good and stable clock for gaming? I'm using a Sapphire Radeon 7970 Vapor-X 1050/1500 3GB. And i'm pretty pissed since many games are staggering behinde with the 3.8 Ghz boost setting. (And my Nvidia/Intel friend keeps nagging me about this).
> 
> Everything is mounted in a CM Haf x Big Tower and uses a Sabertooth 990FX r2.0.
> 
> I really need help with this, i've had so many problems with this PC i think i'm going nuts.


Well overclocking is general hit or miss. No chip is guaranteed to overclock high. Bit i think you can go higher if u add more volts. So yes it would be best to look into a better cooler.
Is your budget allowing you to go custom loop? Or else maybe an high end air cooler like the noctua NH-D14 or Thermalright Silver Arrow?

I don't know where you are from? Are you able to get this in your country?
http://www.swiftech.com/h220.aspx

For comparison:
My 8320 paired with a Corsair H100 will hit 70c at about 1.47-1.49v

About your intel buddy:
I don't know which chip he has but in most games in i5 3570k will be much faster then your chip. That is core-by-core performance.


----------



## LifeDisturbens

I live in Sweden.
Actually, i have no idea what clocks i need to run games good. My pal told me that increasing clocks for more performance is bull****. And i'm pretty sure that he's wrong.

If not that one, i can go for an H100i. As i said. I'm new to overclocking.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LifeDisturbens*
> 
> I live in Sweden.
> Actually, i have no idea what clocks i need to run games good. My pal told me that increasing clocks for more performance is bull****. And i'm pretty sure that he's wrong.
> 
> If not that one, i can go for an H100i. As i said. I'm new to overclocking.


H100i is decent. What kind of fans can you mount in the top of your case? If you manage to fit 140mm(x2) somehow maybe go with the h110.

About the clock increase. It's not the general rule that higher is more fps(frames per second) in games, it really depends on the game itself. Some games are cpu intensive while far more games are gpu intensive. You can always monitor the cpu and gpu usage while running some games where you think you want more performance in. It lets say the gpu is at 100% load and the cpu is less than 50% your cpu is to slow and the other way around.

What gpu did you have again? I thought u said hd7970 earlier.
Honestly in think in most games 4.2ghz is plenty on the cpu.
You can always try to overclock the gpu a bit and see if u get an increase in performance.

But always use fraps or something similar to SEE how much performance you get.

Edit:
Have a look here, maybe it clears things up a bit.
http://forums.anandtech.com/showthread.php?t=2307366


----------



## LifeDisturbens

I use fraps. And after my clock i have reduced FPS in Leauge Of Legends and increased in Fallout 3/NV and Skyrim. That's a bit wierd actually.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Get some benchmarking software man.
> If u speculate you will most likely not see the difference.
> 
> Numbers is what you want


Can you recommend any good RAM benching software?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LifeDisturbens*
> 
> I use fraps. And after my clock i have reduced FPS in Leauge Of Legends and increased in Fallout 3/NV and Skyrim. That's a bit wierd actually.


I think with LoL it doesn't really mather, that game isn't so demanding is it?

For skyrim look here:
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-processor-frame-rate-performance,3427-6.html

But it is still weird that you actually have decreased performance.
Can you monitor both cpu and gpu usage while running LoL at both clock settings you are talking about?

But i hardly believe a single 7970 can bottleneck an 8320.

Someone fill me in if i am wrong.









Edit:
Now i look at your build. Why did you go with the Quad Channel kit on an AMD build? A bit waste of your money if u ask me. Plus in general chips don't like it very much to be overclocked with 4 ram sticks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Can you recommend any good RAM benching software?


I like MaxxMem


----------



## LifeDisturbens

I have 60 FPS constant. The thing is that i'm MUCH for modding. I have 150+ mods. Everything from small gamechanges to 4K textures and meshes. Could be the RAM-Usage? Even though Skyrim uses 4GB. Maybe the Video-Card RAM is restricted. I'll check that with CFF Explorer.

And for Leauge, i'll test that now. And no. It's an Adobe Air scripted game. And the game-engine itself isn't that good. And shadows are off since they're bad as hell. (But the same seems to occour for Dota 2. I have the same FPS there, seem to be capped at 50).

I'll check out the GPU and CPU usage, any good program for that?

EDIT: Now when i think about it, the only thing that is optimized for the FX-8xxx series is Windows 8. Everything else, from games to programs seem to drop performance.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Nice rig. I'll see what I can do to help you out, because you should be able to get a decent OC out of those parts.
> 
> 1st - Is 1.4v your voltage with Turbo disabled? Once you make sure you are running the CPU voltage as low as possible while still keeping full stability (generally 4.5Ghz for an 8350 @ base voltage with Turbo off) then you can look at your temps again. You should be able to hit 4.5Ghz with mid 50 temps on that cooler. If they are still high, then either your case airflow needs to be tweaked, or your CPU block is not seated well enough.


Ah thanks so much. Turbo is disabled (I followed your guide). As it turns out that 1.4 voltage setting was not good. I let it run for a bit longer and the temps continued (gradually but steadily) get higher. I stopped P95 when the CPU temp hit 70C and the core temps were at 58C. I then set the voltage to auto which under full load @4.3 was only 1.34 and it ran for a good 4 hours, the last 3 with CPU at 66C/core 52C and not moving any further. I still think this is too hot so maybe I need to reseat like you said


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LifeDisturbens*
> 
> I have 60 FPS constant. The thing is that i'm MUCH for modding. I have 150+ mods. Everything from small gamechanges to 4K textures and meshes. Could be the RAM-Usage? Even though Skyrim uses 4GB. Maybe the Video-Card RAM is restricted. I'll check that with CFF Explorer.
> 
> And for Leauge, i'll test that now. And no. It's an Adobe Air scripted game. And the game-engine itself isn't that good. And shadows are off since they're bad as hell. (But the same seems to occour for Dota 2. I have the same FPS there, seem to be capped at 50).
> 
> I'll check out the GPU and CPU usage, any good program for that?
> 
> EDIT: Now when i think about it, the only thing that is optimized for the FX-8xxx series is Windows 8. Everything else, from games to programs seem to drop performance.


you are right about that windows 8 being the only thing optimized for the 8 core cpu's. Although I did notice some programs and games gain a bit in performance on mine... probably because of the way windows was using the cpu though... in windows 7 it seemed like half of my cores were never used fully... in 8 the load is spread better, except of coarse when working with one single threaded app, but that almost never happens for me lol... such a multitasker.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I think with LoL it doesn't really mather, that game isn't so demanding is it?
> 
> For skyrim look here:
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/gaming-processor-frame-rate-performance,3427-6.html
> 
> But it is still weird that you actually have decreased performance.
> Can you monitor both cpu and gpu usage while running LoL at both clock settings you are talking about?
> 
> But i hardly believe a single 7970 can bottleneck an 8320.
> 
> Someone fill me in if i am wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Now i look at your build. Why did you go with the Quad Channel kit on an AMD build? A bit waste of your money if u ask me. Plus in general chips don't like it very much to be overclocked with 4 ram sticks.
> I like MaxxMem


I've wondered if that's why I can't get over 5.2 ghz on my 8350 FX... I have 4 sticks of corsair vengeance ram... can hit 4.8 easy... and 5+ with a little effort, but 5.2 is a brick wall for me


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I've wondered if that's why I can't get over 5.2 ghz on my 8350 FX... I have 4 sticks of corsair vengeance ram... can hit 4.8 easy... and 5+ with a little effort, but 5.2 is a brick wall for me


5.2 is already damn high man. What cooler u using?
Maybe you can try to do a test with 2 sticks installed and see where you get...

How much voltage you need for the 4.8 clock?


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 5.2 is already damn high man. What cooler u using?
> Maybe you can try to do a test with 2 sticks installed and see where you get...
> 
> How much voltage you need for the 4.8 clock?


My every day overclock on my 6300 needs 1.440 on the vcore for 4.8 ghz


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> My every day overclock on my 6300 needs 1.440 on the vcore for 4.8 ghz


Aint to bad.
But the 6300 is another story then the 83x0.
8 cores need a little more juice to run high


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 5.2 is already damn high man. What cooler u using?
> Maybe you can try to do a test with 2 sticks installed and see where you get...
> 
> How much voltage you need for the 4.8 clock?


for the 4.8 clock I am using 1.45 vcore to get it prime 95 stable.. but to be honest.. I don't really care to keep it prime 95 stable for hours like that so... I usually make sure that it'll pass ITB and a short run of prime and it will do that at 1.43vcore... and I am using a H80 cooler...but I also have cold air intake and a chimney out the back carrying the heat away from the pc... keeps all components much cooler that way...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 5.2 is already damn high man. What cooler u using?
> Maybe you can try to do a test with 2 sticks installed and see where you get...
> 
> How much voltage you need for the 4.8 clock?


I forgot to mention that the ambient air temp in my case stays around 20-25C nice and cool : ) I can get it down to 15C when doing extreme overclocking IE 5.2 ghz


----------



## bond32

Yeah I did have an 8350 that took 1.45 for 4.8 too. At the time I never had cooling for anything more for prime stable.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah I did have an 8350 that took 1.45 for 4.8 too. At the time I never had cooling for anything more for prime stable.


honestly though I don't keep it there... something happens after 4.6 ghz in my cpu/mobo... I can get an across the board 10% OC stable at stock voltages (turbo core and all) (4.42 base @ 1.3375 and 4.64 max turbo @ 1.41 ) but to get 4.6 solid stable it only takes 1.39... then 1.42 for 4.7... and 1.45 for 4.8... and the voltages climb exponentially from there


----------



## bond32

Yeah, most run 4.6-4.8 for their daily overclock.

Personally I am testing my 2 new 7950's (on air atm) and having nice results. Once I find the max OC for them I will give my 5.03 ghz OC a try. My high OC isn't prime stable but it can bench.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> honestly though I don't keep it there... something happens after 4.6 ghz in my cpu/mobo... I can get an across the board 10% OC stable at stock voltages (turbo core and all) (4.42 base @ 1.3375 and 4.64 max turbo @ 1.41 ) but to get 4.6 solid stable it only takes 1.39... then 1.42 for 4.7... and 1.45 for 4.8... and the voltages climb exponentially from there


Uhm. I am a bit lost with your response.
In your previous post you said u don't really like testing prime for hours.
And now you say you have it solid stable on 4.6 with 1.39v.
To me solid stable means at least prime95 blend 12 hours.

Sure i can make it boot to windows at 5ghz with 1.45 volts or something. But i am sure it won't be stable


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Yeah, most run 4.6-4.8 for their daily overclock.
> 
> Personally I am testing my 2 new 7950's (on air atm) and having nice results. Once I find the max OC for them I will give my 5.03 ghz OC a try. My high OC isn't prime stable but it can bench.


honestly, if it will pass ITB it'll work for daily use.... you risk losing a random bit of data due to corruption, but so long as you keep your critical stuff backed up you are ok.. I've never had a problem and I've even purposely tested and unstable clock on daily running to see what will happen... the clock I tested was 4.64 @ 1.36 vcore.. it would pass 4 runs of ITB, but prime errored out instantly... for a solid week I ran it like that... no problems... not even a app crash or a bluescreen.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> honestly, if it will pass ITB it'll work for daily use.... you risk losing a random bit of data due to corruption, but so long as you keep your critical stuff backed up you are ok.. I've never had a problem and I've even purposely tested and unstable clock on daily running to see what will happen... the clock I tested was 4.64 @ 1.36 vcore.. it would pass 4 runs of ITB, but prime errored out instantly... for a solid week I ran it like that... no problems... not even a app crash or a bluescreen.


No i am not saying it will crash on you or something.
But if it isn't stable it will actually perform worse.
If u like to roll that way go ahead. What makes you happy counts







.

Just run benches and see what gives the best performance.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Uhm. I am a bit lost with your response.
> In your previous post you said u don't really like testing prime for hours.
> And now you say you have it solid stable on 4.6 with 1.39v.
> To me solid stable means at least prime95 blend 12 hours.
> 
> Sure i can make it boot to windows at 5ghz with 1.45 volts or something. But i am sure it won't be stable


solid is a bit arbitrary really... many times even stock pc's won't pass for 12 hours... but I run a test from amd on it, and it says its good lol... ITB says its good... and prime ran for as long as it took to reach max heat... and no errors.. so to me... and in my years of experience... its all good... and just so everyone knows.. I've never had a problem with data loss and when I say a clock is stable, I don't see blue screens either... unless I'm using a program that's bugged or am hacking.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> No i am not saying it will crash on you or something.
> But if it isn't stable it will actually perform worse.
> If u like to roll that way go ahead. What makes you happy counts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Just run benches and see what gives the best performance.


oh I do run benches a lot.. and its funny what will give better performance and what will not... I've spent months testing and testing on my desktop to see what gives the best performance per watt on that thing... and finally settled on an OC for it... oh and the reason I don't like running prime for hours.. is I can't sit there and watch it that long and I'm a bit paranoid that something dumb will happen like a cpu fan going out or something. that will let heat build up when I'm not there.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> oh I do run benches a lot.. and its funny what will give better performance and what will not... I've spent months testing and testing on my desktop to see what gives the best performance per watt on that thing... and finally settled on an OC for it... oh and the reason I don't like running prime for hours.. is I can't sit there and watch it that long and I'm a bit paranoid that something dumb will happen like a cpu fan going out or something. that will let heat build up when I'm not there.


Oh no i am not sitting there those hours haha. That would be kinda dull.
I feel you about the fan issue or something that might happen.

But i trust the thermal protection on the cpu's these days.
Last time i burned a cpu and board was with an Sempron 1600+








And that really BURNED. There literally came smoke out of the case hahaha. I tell you burned pcb don't smell nice









I used to do the same as you. Just 20 runs of IBT or something and half an hour till 1,5 hours of blend and call it a day.
But i had several times that when doing long gaming sessions i still got a nasty BSOD.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Oh no i am not sitting there those hours haha. That would be kinda dull.
> I feel you about the fan issue or something that might happen.
> 
> But i trust the thermal protection on the cpu's these days.
> Last time i burned a cpu and board was with an Sempron 1600+
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And that really BURNED. There literally came smoke out of the case hahaha. I tell you burned pcb don't smell nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to do the same as you. Just 20 runs of IBT or something and half an hour till 1,5 hours of blend and call it a day.
> But i had several times that when doing long gaming sessions i still got a nasty BSOD.


never had one of those yet, except during testing... maybe just lucky though.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Ah thanks so much. Turbo is disabled (I followed your guide). As it turns out that 1.4 voltage setting was not good. I let it run for a bit longer and the temps continued (gradually but steadily) get higher. I stopped P95 when the CPU temp hit 70C and the core temps were at 58C. I then set the voltage to auto which under full load @4.3 was only 1.34 and it ran for a good 4 hours, the last 3 with CPU at 66C/core 52C and not moving any further. I still think this is too hot so maybe I need to reseat like you said


Hmmmm, you might want to start that OC from scratch. If on Auto voltages it sets it to 1.34 @ 4.3 your stock voltage may be even lower.

I would recommend loading optimized defaults. Disable Turbo - and put CPU LLC to Ultra High then Save and Reset in the BIOS. When you go back into the BIOS the voltage should be much lower. Manually set whatever the CPU voltage says, and you should be able to reach 4.4-4.5Ghz with that.

My 2nd 8350 had a voltage of 1.28v - Running 1.4v had high temps even on my H100 - but the CPU did 4.6Ghz @ 1.34v with decent temps on Air. So it's very important not to use more voltage then you need, especially if you CPU has a very low stock voltage 1.26v-1.28v which are ideal for benching with L2N.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Hello guys!

So I'm running a FX-8350 @ 4.6GHz @ 1.428v at full load(P95) and 1.404 in idle.
I've followed this guide but I really struggle with my temps at this voltage + higher.

Right now I'm running prime with small FFTs and the temps after a few minutes with my H100i is:
Socket: 75c
Cores(all) 62c

Thing is, I know I should be able to get lower temps with this cooler, however I can't get 4.6Ghz stable w/o this volt.

My speccs are:
*CPU:* AMD FX 8350 @ 4.6GHz
*Cooler:* Corsair H100i
*GPU:* GeForce GTX 650Ti BOOST 2048MB x2 SLI
*Motherboard:* Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0
*Memory:* Corsair 8GB CL8 1600Mhz VENGEANCE

At these temps my system does not freeze or anything. It can go even higher w/o any lockups.
My BIOS settings are pretty much the same as the guide says(+ the CPU/NB LLC on auto as said in 5.0+Ghz part)
Running CPU Power Phase Control on Extreme

Any ideas how to lower my temperatures while in prime?
In gaming load(+livestream) the temps are just fine.
My goal with the OC is 4.7/4.8GHz.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Hello guys!
> 
> So I'm running a FX-8350 @ 4.6GHz @ 1.428v at full load(P95) and 1.404 in idle.
> I've followed this guide but I really struggle with my temps at this voltage + higher.
> 
> Right now I'm running prime with small FFTs and the temps after a few minutes with my H100i is:
> Socket: 75c
> Cores(all) 62c
> 
> Thing is, I know I should be able to get lower temps with this cooler, however I can't get 4.6Ghz stable w/o this volt.
> 
> My speccs are:
> *CPU:* AMD FX 8350 @ 4.6GHz
> *Cooler:* Corsair H100i
> *GPU:* GeForce GTX 650Ti BOOST 2048MB x2 SLI
> *Motherboard:* Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0
> *Memory:* Corsair 8GB CL8 1600Mhz VENGEANCE
> 
> At these temps my system does not freeze or anything. It can go even higher w/o any lockups.
> My BIOS settings are pretty much the same as the guide says(+ the CPU/NB LLC on auto as said in 5.0+Ghz part)
> Running CPU Power Phase Control on Extreme
> 
> Any ideas how to lower my temperatures while in prime?
> In gaming load(+livestream) the temps are just fine.
> My goal with the OC is 4.7/4.8GHz.


Make sure your H100 Mounting is good. A lot of the time I see people tighten one side down too much before the other side.


Spoiler: Pics








Since you are using the H100 you can use some double sided tape and stick the stock AMD fan to the side of it, so that it's blowing air onto the VRM heat sink. This will lower Socket and Core temps.

Other than that, you will just have to play around with case fan configurations to get the best airflow through the Radiator. Make sure to use the stock Corsair fans on your H100 unless you have other high pressure fans to replace them. I recommend placing the fans to pull air through the radiator. This will cause the air to accelerate through the fins giving the best effeciency. You can also play around with using the radiator as the exhaust or intake. If you don't have a fan controller, then make sure your rad fans are plugged into the Corsair block. Make sure you have the fan profile on full (3 lights).

Fan profiles -
Rad as Exhaust - place other case fans as intakes so there is excess air to push through the radiator.
Rad as Intake - place other case fans as exhaust so the radiator fans aren't fighting agains a positive case pressure to push air through the radiator.

Good luck - nice Rig.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Make sure your H100 Mounting is good. A lot of the time I see people tighten one side down too much before the other side.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you are using the H100 you can use some double sided tape and stick the stock AMD fan to the side of it, so that it's blowing air onto the VRM heat sink. This will lower Socket and Core temps.
> 
> Other than that, you will just have to play around with case fan configurations to get the best airflow through the Radiator. Make sure to use the stock Corsair fans on your H100 unless you have other high pressure fans to replace them. I recommend placing the fans to pull air through the radiator. This will cause the air to accelerate through the fins giving the best effeciency. You can also play around with using the radiator as the exhaust or intake. If you don't have a fan controller, then make sure your rad fans are plugged into the Corsair block. Make sure you have the fan profile on full (3 lights).
> 
> Fan profiles -
> Rad as Exhaust - place other case fans as intakes so there is excess air to push through the radiator.
> Rad as Intake - place other case fans as exhaust so the radiator fans aren't fighting agains a positive case pressure to push air through the radiator.
> 
> Good luck - nice Rig.


First of all; Thank you








Second of all: I can't use the stock h100i fans due to I pretty much destroyed them when trying to install them on my HAF 912 case, so right now I'm using a random fan(around 2.2k rpm I think) and a Corsair Air series SP120 Quiet edition.

The reason that I use my fancontroller is because I don't have PWM on those fans, so I guess I can't use Corsair Link to change the RPM and such.

I run both fans on my fan controller on max speed. So guess both are running on full speed








About the rad: Right now I have the fans against the top side of my case and then the radiator and it takes the air out of my case and out in the top.
I also have x2 140mm fans in the front that pulls in air + 1 in the back that exhausts.


The front fans is sitting a bit higher than showing on the picture. It's blowing pretty much straight over the motherboard/RAM and GPUs
Blue arrow = Intake
Red arrows = Exhaust

I may have put the block wrong though. However, shouldn't the core temperatures become more different from eachother?
But anyway, do I have to remove the block totally or can I just loosen up the block a little bit and then screw it back better?

Could it perhaps be worth getting x2 Corsair Air series SP120 High Performance, PWM?
Btw, would it make any performance difference from 4.6Ghz to 4.8?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> First of all; Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second of all: I can't use the stock h100i fans due to I pretty much destroyed them when trying to install them on my HAF 912 case, so right now I'm using a random fan(around 2.2k rpm I think) and a Corsair Air series SP120 Quiet edition.
> 
> The reason that I use my fancontroller is because I don't have PWM on those fans, so I guess I can't use Corsair Link to change the RPM and such.
> 
> I run both fans on my fan controller on max speed. So guess both are running on full speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the rad: Right now I have the fans against the top side of my case and then the radiator and it takes the air out of my case and out in the top.
> I also have x2 140mm fans in the front that pulls in air + 1 in the back that exhausts.
> 
> 
> The front fans is sitting a bit higher than showing on the picture. It's blowing pretty much straight over the motherboard/RAM and GPUs
> Blue arrow = Intake
> Red arrows = Exhaust
> 
> I may have put the block wrong though. However, shouldn't the core temperatures become more different from eachother?
> But anyway, do I have to remove the block totally or can I just loosen up the block a little bit and then screw it back better?
> 
> Could it perhaps be worth getting x2 Corsair Air series SP120 High Performance, PWM?
> Btw, would it make any performance difference from 4.6Ghz to 4.8?


I also use the h100 and i have set it the other way around. The radiator sitting against the chasis and fans with shrouds(i use 2 gentle typhoon 1850rpm) in pull. Taking cool air inside the case.
Also in that way you have positive pressure inside the case to reduce dust intake.

When all cores have the same temp is it about right. When one or several cores have different temps the contact isn't optimal.
But when you do want to mount again never use the same thermal paste, so no, you can't loosen and fasten it to mount properly. That way you get air bubbles which hurt the cooling allot.

And theoretically faster means more performance. But it really comes down to where you use it for... so you can find out if the increased power usage and heat is worth it against the performance gain.
For normal everyday usage 4.6 is enough if u ask me. Most likely 4.8 will be hard to maintain on the h100. It isn't really top of the line cooling.

Edit:
Oh misread. You have the h100i. That is a little better. Just look how the temps are when you clock at 4.8. What voltage are you at now? 1.44-1.46v?


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I also use the h100 and i have set it the other way around. The radiator sitting against the chasis and fans with shrouds(i use 2 gentle typhoon 1850rpm) in pull. Taking cool air inside the case.
> Also in that way you have positive pressure inside the case to reduce dust intake.
> 
> When all cores have the same temp is it about right. When one or several cores have different temps the contact isn't optimal.
> But when you do want to mount again never use the same thermal paste, so no, you can't loosen and fasten it to mount properly. That way you get air bubbles which hurt the cooling allot.
> 
> And theoretically faster means more performance. But it really comes down to where you use it for... so you can find out if the increased power usage and heat is worth it against the performance gain.
> For normal everyday usage 4.6 is enough if u ask me. Most likely 4.8 will be hard to maintain on the h100. It isn't really top of the line cooling.
> 
> Edit:
> Oh misread. You have the h100i. That is a little better. Just look how the temps are when you clock at 4.8. What voltage are you at now? 1.44-1.46v?


Yo!
I had it that way before, so it took in fresh air, but the GPUs got kinda hot that way.
I usually Livestream games. The most cpu/gpu heavy game I play atm is BF3 and upcoming BF4.

My current voltage is 1.428v at full load(P95) and 1.404 in idle.
I noticed that Blend Test did less heat than Small FFTs, although I'm still on 55+ on cores after ~10 minutes of testing with blend. Thing is; I guess I could run it stable in games on 4.8Ghz since it makes less heat than P95, but I also need to stress test it so.. There's my problem. Because p95 causes so much heat I can't really stress test at higher voltages

Edit: My VRM on my Sabertooth 990Fx r2.0 is VERY hot. I can actually burn myself on them. I've tried put a fan over them but I can't get it stuck. My IO panel is not "big enough" and i have nothing else to actually get it stuck- Any ideas how to reduce the vrm temps?

On p95 load they're around 80-90C


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Yo!
> I had it that way before, so it took in fresh air, but the GPUs got kinda hot that way.
> I usually Livestream games. The most cpu/gpu heavy game I play atm is BF3 and upcoming BF4.
> 
> My current voltage is 1.428v at full load(P95) and 1.404 in idle.
> I noticed that Blend Test did less heat than Small FFTs, although I'm still on 55+ on cores after ~10 minutes of testing with blend. Thing is; I guess I could run it stable in games on 4.8Ghz since it makes less heat than P95, but I also need to stress test it so.. There's my problem. Because p95 causes so much heat I can't really stress test at higher voltages


In the opening post of this thread this was stated:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Thermal and Voltage Limits for the CPU
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click
> 
> 
> 
> *Thermal Limits*
> CPU Core - 62 Celsius
> CPU Socket - 72 Celsius


About heating up the gpu i know what you mean. Maybe if you have a spare fan you can make extra airflow to the back exhaust?
I tried finding an good picture to show what i mean but i couldn't find what i meant exactly:

Something like that.

But you can also mount a fan in the 5.25" bay, can even do it with zip ties. I have done that before. Also is pretty quiet that way.

About the vrm.
You can grab one of these:
http://store.antec.com/Product/cooling-cooling_fan/SpotCool-100/0-761345-75050-9.aspx

What i did was actually zip tie a 120mm fan to the hoses of my h100








I made an post on the FX-8320/FX-8350 Owners Club, have a look:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/19620#post_20478169


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> In the opening post of this thread this was stated:
> About heating up the gpu i know what you mean. Maybe if you have a spare fan you can make extra airflow to the back exhaust?
> I tried finding an good picture to show what i mean but i couldn't find what i meant exactly:
> 
> Something like that.
> 
> But you can also mount a fan in the 5.25" bay, can even do it with zip ties. I have done that before. Also is pretty quiet that way.


Ok, Let's put it this way: If I go higher the temps will exceed 65+ on cores and 75+ on socket.
As also mentioned I've tried putting a 80mm fan on the VRM heatsink but I can't get it to stick there.

should also perhaps say my case is a Corsair Carbide Air 540 Cube


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Ok, Let's put it this way: If I go higher the temps will exceed 65+ on cores and 75+ on socket.
> As also mentioned I've tried putting a 80mm fan on the VRM heatsink but I can't get it to stick there.


Read up my editted post.

As you already are close to the max socket temp i wouldn't push further.
You can try the method i advised, setting the radiator as intake and mounting an fan to push the hot air to the rear exhaust. That will maybe shave of a few degrees. But you are close to the max your cooler can take.

If u want higher it is going to be custom loop for you. But i don't think the costs of that will weight up against the (small) performance increase you can gain.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Read up my editted post.
> 
> As you already are close to the max socket temp i wouldn't push further.
> You can try the method i advised, setting the radiator as intake and mounting an fan to push the hot air to the rear exhaust. That will maybe shave of a few degrees. But you are close to the max your cooler can take.
> 
> If u want higher it is going to be custom loop for you. But i don't think the costs of that will weight up against the (small) performance increase you can gain.


Fair enough and that's the answer I wanted








I'm gonna see if I can get the fan stuck there somehow at some point but as you said, getting the "small" performance by the 100-200 MHz I wished for may not be worth pushing those degrees.

Thank you very much for your help.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Fair enough and that's the answer I wanted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna see if I can get the fan stuck there somehow at some point but as you said, getting the "small" performance by the 100-200 MHz I wished for may not be worth pushing those degrees.
> 
> Thank you very much for your help.


Glad to help when i can.









Well even if u don't try to push further i would try to optimize the cooling. Cooler components last longer...
What i saw some guys do is mount a fan on the right side panel of the case somehow that it blows cool air to the rear side of the cpu socket. That can shave of some temp also. Maybe you have room behind the motherboard tray to mount that. If u have a dremel or can lend it from someone you can always make an hole in the side panel.

And mounting/zip tying a fan in the rear of the 5.25" bays should be simple enough.

Good luck


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Glad to help when i can.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well even if u don't try to push further i would try to optimize the cooling. Cooler components last longer...
> What i saw some guys do is mount a fan on the right side panel of the case somehow that it blows cool air to the rear side of the cpu socket. That can shave of some temp also. Maybe you have room behind the motherboard tray to mount that. If u have a dremel or can lend it from someone you can always make an hole in the side panel.
> 
> And mounting/zip tying a fan in the rear of the 5.25" bays should be simple enough.
> 
> Good luck


Thanks.
I actually putted the original fan for the 8350 on the backside of my motherboard and it reduced the temps on the socket with over 10c o.o
However, the core temps are still rising over 62c when increasing the voltage.

VRM temps were better as well. But holy shizzle the fan sounds loud


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Thanks.
> I actually putted the original fan for the 8350 on the backside of my motherboard and it reduced the temps on the socket with over 10c o.o
> However, the core temps are still rising over 62c when increasing the voltage.
> 
> VRM temps were better as well. But holy shizzle the fan sounds loud


Haha true. That sucker spins at about 5000rpm.
Do you have something like:


Because what i did was switch the red and the fellow wire on the side of the molex(big 4-pin) where it connects to the psu. If u do that the fan will run at 5v instead of 12v. Sure it doesn't take of 10c in that mode but it will be allot quieter







.

Oh that picture is wrong. The little connector should be male(with pins).


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Haha true. That sucker spins at about 5000rpm.
> Do you have something like:
> 
> 
> Because what i did was switch the red and the fellow wire on the side of the molex(big 4-pin) where it connects to the psu. If u do that the fan will run at 5v instead of 12v. Sure it doesn't take of 10c in that mode but it will be allot quieter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Oh that picture is wrong. The little connector should be male(with pins).


Aye, I get what you mean








Although It only runs @ 2.2k rpm or so.

Could you explain why I should stress test with Small FFTs instead of Blend test? Because on the swedish site, "Sweclockers" I've heard from like everyone that blend test is the way to go.
But in this guide it says Small FFTs.

In Small FFTs I go over 60c on cores pretty much straight away, but on blend It's now stable at around 53-55c while the socket is on 56c and VRM on 64/58c


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Aye, I get what you mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although It only runs @ 2.2k rpm or so.
> 
> Could you explain why I should stress test with Small FFTs instead of Blend test? Because on the swedish site, "Sweclockers" I've heard from like everyone that blend test is the way to go.
> But in this guide it says Small FFTs.


You can always make an larger hole in the side panel and mount an 120mm fan behind the motherboard.

Lets see, how to put this.
While you work on finding your overclock most guy's use Small FFTs because this puts the most stress on the cpu. But almost none on the ram memory. Also this is for quick testen, like 10 minutes or so. if it passes. Raise overclock. Untill you either hit the temp limit or a core fails. When a core fails up the voltage one notch and repeat. Until you find your desired overclock or temp limit. If small FFTs stays just within the temp limit it is ok. Normal program's games never heat it up that much.

When you found your overclock run blend for like 12 hours, can do that overnight. Blend uses much ram. So it can fail because of faulty ram settings. Increasing cpu core clock increases stress on the IMC(internal memory controller). So when you have max cpu overclock you can't overclock the ram much/at all. When you lower the cpu you can up the ram theoretically. Also depends on the ram itself of course.

Is it clear?


----------



## h1F5solomon

Absolutely. Very good explanation. Thank you









And no, I'm not gonna make a hole on my case. I bought it 2 days ago.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Absolutely. Very good explanation. Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And no, I'm not gonna make a hole on my case. I bought it 2 days ago.


Hahaha. Just saying the options







.
I had a mate of mine who took out the grinder tool and cut out almost the complete top of his 800D Corsair case







. He just HAD to mount an 480 rad in there hahaha.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> First of all; Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Second of all: I can't use the stock h100i fans due to I pretty much destroyed them when trying to install them on my HAF 912 case, so right now I'm using a random fan(around 2.2k rpm I think) and a Corsair Air series SP120 Quiet edition.
> 
> The reason that I use my fancontroller is because I don't have PWM on those fans, so I guess I can't use Corsair Link to change the RPM and such.
> 
> I run both fans on my fan controller on max speed. So guess both are running on full speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> About the rad: Right now I have the fans against the top side of my case and then the radiator and it takes the air out of my case and out in the top.
> I also have x2 140mm fans in the front that pulls in air + 1 in the back that exhausts.
> 
> 
> The front fans is sitting a bit higher than showing on the picture. It's blowing pretty much straight over the motherboard/RAM and GPUs
> Blue arrow = Intake
> Red arrows = Exhaust
> 
> I may have put the block wrong though. However, shouldn't the core temperatures become more different from eachother?
> But anyway, do I have to remove the block totally or can I just loosen up the block a little bit and then screw it back better?
> 
> Could it perhaps be worth getting x2 Corsair Air series SP120 High Performance, PWM?
> Btw, would it make any performance difference from 4.6Ghz to 4.8?


A fan controller is great. Some people sometimes plug the fans into a Chassis spot on the motherboard, so they never increase in speed when the CPU gets hot. It would be worth it to get another SP120, unless your other random fan happens to have high static pressure. Otherwise you're basically only running one fan that can actually get air through the radiator.

So - SP120, turn that rear exhaust around so that it's blowing air into the case, for more positive pressure and as long as your seating and TIM application is good on the CPU then even 4.8Ghz with nice temps should be dooable.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> A fan controller is great. Some people sometimes plug the fans into a Chassis spot on the motherboard, so they never increase in speed when the CPU gets hot. It would be worth it to get another SP120, unless your other random fan happens to have high static pressure. Otherwise you're basically only running one fan that can actually get air through the radiator.
> 
> So - SP120, turn that rear exhaust around so that it's blowing air into the case, for more positive pressure and as long as your seating and TIM application is good on the CPU then even 4.8Ghz with nice temps should be dooable.


I plug my cpu fans into my mobo case fan plugs.... I have 4 fans cooling my cpu area only one of which is actually plugged into the cpu fan plug... but my board has controls in it where I can tie the case fans speed into the cpu temp reading so that if my cpu temp goes up so does my fans... I did that because the corsair H80 has 3 settings noisy, warm and hot'n quiet lol.. I wanted to be able to get the full range of the fans... but not all boards allow you to do that...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hahaha. Just saying the options
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I had a mate of mine who took out the grinder tool and cut out almost the complete top of his 800D Corsair case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . He just HAD to mount an 480 rad in there hahaha.


lol.. I carved on mine too... not with a grinder though... little less invasive methods used... but now I have a 120mm fan mounted neatly on the outside of my case... and yes I did put a grill over it to keep wandering fingers out of harms way


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> lol.. I carved on mine too... not with a grinder though... little less invasive methods used... but now I have a 120mm fan mounted neatly on the outside of my case... and yes I did put a grill over it to keep wandering fingers out of harms way


...or pets.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> ...or pets.


This is a little off the fan conversation...but what do you think of this? worth it? I've seen some tests that show it does better than the H80.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/271262505942?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649


----------



## Minotaurtoo

oh, here is a pic of the results of my carving


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> This is a little off the fan conversation...but what do you think of this? worth it? I've seen some tests that show it does better than the H80.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/271262505942?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649


For that price i would say go for it.
I looked at that cooler myself sometime. It looks decent enough with the 5 8mm pipes, should drive away the heat pretty fast.

Have a read through this review
By looking at the results it seems that the h50 is about 1c cooler with an overclocked i5. So better then h80, i doubt it.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> For that price i would say go for it.
> I looked at that cooler myself sometime. It looks decent enough with the 5 8mm pipes, should drive away the heat pretty fast.
> 
> Have a read through this review
> By looking at the results it seems that the h50 is about 1c cooler with an overclocked i5. So better then h80, i doubt it.


that's what I thought.. just was wondering.. I don't have a use for it unless I was going to replace my H80 with it... but since you confirmed what I was thinking.. I'll keep my H80... oh, what did you think of the fans I put on my H80.. they were showing in the back of that pic I left... please ignore the poor cable tying as I haven't sat down and fixed my cables proper yet


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> that's what I thought.. just was wondering.. I don't have a use for it unless I was going to replace my H80 with it... but since you confirmed what I was thinking.. I'll keep my H80... oh, what did you think of the fans I put on my H80.. they were showing in the back of that pic I left... please ignore the poor cable tying as I haven't sat down and fixed my cables proper yet


Sorry, but i can't see **** on the picture







.
Do you want to improve the performance of the h80?
The Corsair SP120 high pressure high performance fans are one of the best to pair with an radiator. But a bit expensive for some people. They do sell in 2 packs with a little discount.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sorry, but i can't see **** on the picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Do you want to improve the performance of the h80?
> The Corsair SP120 high pressure high performance fans are one of the best to pair with an radiator. But a bit expensive for some people. They do sell in 2 packs with a little discount.


for the record... its "can't see $#!+" lol... and not really aiming for performance increase..just the blue led's... these were a bit of a sideways movement performance wise...they come in just under the stock fans as far as cfm and static pressure go, but silence was golden.. these on full blast are barely audible... I thought about getting these.. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7867794&CatId=802 as they have a bit higher cfm than the stock fans that came with my H80, at least according to the specs I saw online... and they have the blue led's and low noise I'm looking for... don't know if they hold up to the 109 cfm they state or not... but seriously thinking about getting 2 of them... although I'm not having problems staying cool now...not until I get to 4.8ghz anyway.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> for the record... its "can't see $#!+" lol... and not really aiming for performance increase..just the blue led's... these were a bit of a sideways movement performance wise...they come in just under the stock fans as far as cfm and static pressure go, but silence was golden.. these on full blast are barely audible... I thought about getting these.. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=7867794&CatId=802 as they have a bit higher cfm than the stock fans that came with my H80, at least according to the specs I saw online... and they have the blue led's and low noise I'm looking for... don't know if they hold up to the 109 cfm they state or not... but seriously thinking about getting 2 of them... although I'm not having problems staying cool now...not until I get to 4.8ghz anyway.


Cougars are nice. Can't go wrong with that.








I used to be the same. It has to have leds and look nice and all. But now i just want performance.
Sure if i have the choice between identical fans i go with the better looking one but it is not my primary choice.

I have two Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm on my h100. They work pretty nice for the noise they make. Just a little hum from the air they move.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Cougars are nice. Can't go wrong with that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to be the same. It has to have leds and look nice and all. But now i just want performance.
> Sure if i have the choice between identical fans i go with the better looking one but it is not my primary choice.
> 
> I have two Gentle Typhoons 1850rpm on my h100. They work pretty nice for the noise they make. Just a little hum from the air they move.


I didn't used to care about noise that much... when my pc sat under my desk in a secluded area... but when I got into gaming, the cabinet would get hot causing problems, so I set my pc on my desktop...that's actually what got me into caring about the looks too.. .if I've got to stare at it all the time, then I want it to look cool and be quiet so I can hear stuff outside...no hairdryer fans for me lol. The fans I have are doing pretty good.. the cpu socket is the second coolest temp in the case atm while browsing the web... and the core temps are running right at ambient temps..under load though that'll change lol.


----------



## xxToranachxx

Still pretty new to "modern" overclocking. However, I am getting prime95 core failure on one of the cores when I go past 209 for my FSB settings on my Asus Sabertooth 990fx. Im at stock voltage and way below max temp. The multiplier is still at 20 right now and and the voltage is stock. Im really not sure whats wrong, Any advice?


----------



## xxToranachxx

Still pretty new to "modern" overclocking. However, I am getting prime95 core failure on one of the cores when I go past 209 for my FSB settings on my Asus Sabertooth 990fx. Im at stock voltage and way below max temp. The multiplier is still at 20 right now and and the voltage is stock. Im really not sure whats wrong, Any advice?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Up the voltage a bit. 1.35 to 1.45 is good for modest overclocks, but don't worry too much about core failure. Prime95 and [email protected], for instance, are nowhere near indicative of normal use.

I personally have only touched the multiplier and am at 4.5 GHz (+1 GHz) at 1.4v with a 22.5 multiplier. A core dropped after a few minutes of Prime95 and second got throttled about 15 minutes in.


----------



## xxToranachxx

I will try that when I get home from work this afternoon, I was hoping for 4.5-4.7 ghz on my Coolermaster V-8. I know its not the best cooler but it's worked very well so far. I replaced my case fans with the cougar fans to get a little more airflow but my case really sucks. I was also thinking about replacing the fan in the V-8 as well. The airflow could be so much better. A new case will be my next upgrade I think. It's between the rosewill Thor v2 and the CM Storm Trooper. The temps in my case aren't bad but they could be a lot better. I was hoping for a FSB of 215-225 with a multiplier of 20.5-21. Hopefully my chip will allow this. Thanks for the response Cynical.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxToranachxx*
> 
> I will try that when I get home from work this afternoon, I was hoping for 4.5-4.7 ghz on my Coolermaster V-8. I know its not the best cooler but it's worked very well so far. I replaced my case fans with the cougar fans to get a little more airflow but my case really sucks. I was also thinking about replacing the fan in the V-8 as well. The airflow could be so much better. A new case will be my next upgrade I think. It's between the rosewill Thor v2 and the CM Storm Trooper. The temps in my case aren't bad but they could be a lot better. I was hoping for a FSB of 215-225 with a multiplier of 20.5-21. Hopefully my chip will allow this. Thanks for the response Cynical.


earlier in the thread I posted an ebay link to a thermaltake frio... its one of the best air coolers out there... the Noctua DH 14 is the best air cooler... but that price on the thermaltake was cheap... from what I've read you can change the fans on it pretty easy to upgrade if you wanted too. Of coarse you could always go with liquid cooling... general consensus seems to be that custom loops are the best cooling out there without going to phase change or LN2/LHe2


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xxToranachxx*
> 
> I will try that when I get home from work this afternoon, I was hoping for 4.5-4.7 ghz on my Coolermaster V-8. I know its not the best cooler but it's worked very well so far. I replaced my case fans with the cougar fans to get a little more airflow but my case really sucks. I was also thinking about replacing the fan in the V-8 as well. The airflow could be so much better. A new case will be my next upgrade I think. It's between the rosewill Thor v2 and the CM Storm Trooper. The temps in my case aren't bad but they could be a lot better. I was hoping for a FSB of 215-225 with a multiplier of 20.5-21. Hopefully my chip will allow this. Thanks for the response Cynical.


Just watch out for FSB dead spots. Some motherboard+CPU combos do not run with stability at certain ranges of FSB. Every one is different and there can be multiple ranges. That's why I was pretty reluctant to put any kind of FSB Guide info (Head-ache!!)

I would recommend to pick your FSB speed first and lower all the multipliers to run at completely stock settings to make sure it will pass your stability tests. As long as you know you're not hitting a dead zone then you're safe to adjust further.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Up the voltage a bit. 1.35 to 1.45 is good for modest overclocks, but don't worry too much about core failure. Prime95 and [email protected], for instance, are nowhere near indicative of normal use.


I once accidentally used In-place FFT-s instead of Blend, meaning my cores never failed. Later when I ran Blend I gotcore failure at 18 minutes. In between those 2 tests this CPU ran Skyrim on max settings with no stability issues whatsoever.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

for those who don't know, overclocking isn't a road to a door, instead its a dark path leading deeper into the woods of frustration and forest of insanity. have a good trip lol


----------



## FatedFrenzy

^this!

I drove my fiance nuts with OCing my current build. I was frustrated and angry for a week.


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello fellow clockers








Would you care to look at my post here?

I have my stuff back from RMA and got my system back up and running.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> ^this!
> 
> I drove my fiance nuts with OCing my current build. I was frustrated and angry for a week.


took me months to get a set of happy overclock profiles for me... lol.. don't know why I spent so much time.. but I wasn't aiming for highest clocks.. but highest performance in benchmarks as well as a level of stability that didn't lead to blue screens or "not normal" game crashes... some games crash anyway... don't believe me.. just play tdu2.... didn't go crazy stability testing though.. I don't do the hours of prime thing... but then I come from a time when the most stable desktop computers in the world crashed daily lol


----------



## h1F5solomon

Hello again guys!

I'm just doing a small update due to I've actually managed to get up to 4.7GHz!!








How I managed this was to first of all put my rad/fans to do pull as a Intake which actually decreased my temps with ~10c (holy crap on a stick) and after that I've been tinkering around with the voltage, different settings and such as well.

I'm on my 8th hour of stress testing right now.
although, I did change the digi+ settings as well a littlte bit.

So guys, do you think by up'ing the Northbridge or HT link, could I get out any more performance?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Hello again guys!
> 
> I'm just doing a small update due to I've actually managed to get up to 4.7GHz!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How I managed this was to first of all put my rad/fans to do pull as a Intake which actually decreased my temps with ~10c (holy crap on a stick) and after that I've been tinkering around with the voltage, different settings and such as well.
> 
> I'm on my 8th hour of stress testing right now.
> although, I did change the digi+ settings as well a littlte bit.
> 
> So guys, do you think by up'ing the Northbridge or HT link, could I get out any more performance?


Hey you again









NB doesn't help much. But upping the cpu-nb can give a nice increase in overal performance as that increases the communication between the cpu and ram.

Nice clock btw.
I don't remember. But did I advice you to put them rad as intake? Because i have told things to many guys lately, haha.
And yes intake gives a nice difference. I also use it.
I'm just hold back by the motherboard. If the voltage was a bit more stable i'd be able to get 4.7-4.8 i guess.
And the vrm temp just rockets at 4.5ghz because i have to put the vCore at around 1.55v because of the vDroop.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hey you again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> NB doesn't help much. But upping the cpu-nb can give a nice increase in overal performance as that increases the communication between the cpu and ram.
> 
> Nice clock btw.
> I don't remember. But did I advice you to put them rad as intake? Because i have told things to many guys lately, haha.
> And yes intake gives a nice difference. I also use it.
> I'm just hold back by the motherboard. If the voltage was a bit more stable i'd be able to get 4.7-4.8 i guess.
> And the vrm temp just rockets at 4.5ghz because i have to put the vCore at around 1.55v because of the vDroop.


Well, someone told me at least! ^^
I'm running the cpu/nb at 2200MHz right now with 1.25v. I haven't "stresstested" it so I don't know if I can up the cpu/nb higher. But what Mhz do you think I can go with on the cpu-nb?

And: Do I stresstest further when increasing the cpu-nb? Like with prime blend or so

How about the HT Link(2600Mhz atm)? Would that increase any performance?

Edit: A little off-topic but how do I get a signature like yours? With my rig I mean


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Well, someone told me at least! ^^
> I'm running the cpu/nb at 2200MHz right now with 1.25v. I haven't "stresstested" it so I don't know if I can up the cpu/nb higher. But what Mhz do you think I can go with on the cpu-nb?
> 
> And: Do I stresstest further when increasing the cpu-nb? Like with prime blend or so
> 
> How about the HT Link(2600Mhz atm)? Would that increase any performance?
> 
> Edit: A little off-topic but how do I get a signature like yours? With my rig I mean


That is almost on topic. It is very handy for us to be able to see your rig. Because i now read your post but i have no idea what chip or board you use.

Go to your profile scroll all the way down. And there is the sector " Your rigs". Fill it in. Can take some time. Really no need to fill in all the small details. If you have the part names and models etc we know enough. Don't need to fill in all the voltages because that takes ages.

Then when you have the rig. Slightly above "Your rigs" there is "Your forum signature". Open that and maybe type in some stuff if you want.








Beneath the field where you can type stuff there are three drop down boxes at which you can choose what to display, that can be one of your albums, threads or your rig.










Will come back to you when you are done with that.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Alright, think I got it now!


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Alright, think I got it now!


Yes you did as I just opened your rig from your signature and am investigating it.







(Love your case BTW)
And you've been talking so much about overclocking recently that I'm really in the mood now... Sadly I managed to break my rig recently so I guess I'll just explode with excitement.







Oh, and, nice OC you have there.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Yes you did as I just opened your rig from your signature and am investigating it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Love your case BTW)
> And you've been talking so much about overclocking recently that I'm really in the mood now... Sadly I managed to break my rig recently so I guess I'll just explode with excitement.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh, and, nice OC you have there.


Thank you very much man







I appreciate it


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Well, someone told me at least! ^^
> I'm running the cpu/nb at 2200MHz right now with 1.25v. I haven't "stresstested" it so I don't know if I can up the cpu/nb higher. But what Mhz do you think I can go with on the cpu-nb?
> 
> And: Do I stresstest further when increasing the cpu-nb? Like with prime blend or so
> 
> How about the HT Link(2600Mhz atm)? Would that increase any performance?
> 
> Edit: A little off-topic but how do I get a signature like yours? With my rig I mean


that cpu/nb (2200mhz) is stock so u don't have to overclock. Also mind that the max advised cpu/nb voltage is actually 1.225v so begin by setting it to that voltage and see if you can get to 2400-2600mhz.
Just run some benchmarks with each increase to see which gains you get compared to the increased heat you get. Sometimes it's better to settle with a lower cpu core clock but higher cpu/nb and/or ram speed. Is that ram set running at 9-9-9-27 timings? Maybe you can try to either up the frequency or lower the timings to something like 8-9-8-25. Giving a bit more voltage to the ram's can make the overclock stable(1.55-1.60v), run either blend or memtest to check ram stability.

Good benchmarks to test the cpu-nb speeds are 3dmark or heaven or something like that.

I would leave HT link as it is. Don't change everything together. When you have a good clock you can try to fiddle with that but i don't expect that to give much gains.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Alright, think I got it now!


Good job.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> that cpu/nb (2200mhz) is stock so u don't have to overclock. Also mind that the max advised cpu/nb voltage is actually 1.225v so begin by setting it to that voltage and see if you can get to 2400-2600mhz.
> Just run some benchmarks with each increase to see which gains you get compared to the increased heat you get. Sometimes it's better to settle with a lower cpu core clock but higher cpu/nb and/or ram speed. Is that ram set running at 9-9-9-27 timings? Maybe you can try to either up the frequency or lower the timings to something like 8-9-8-25. Giving a bit more voltage to the ram's can make the overclock stable(1.55-1.60v), run either blend or memtest to check ram stability.
> 
> Good benchmarks to test the cpu-nb speeds are 3dmark or heaven or something like that.
> 
> I would leave HT link as it is. Don't change everything together. When you have a good clock you can try to fiddle with that but i don't expect that to give much gains.
> Good job.


Right. My mem is running on 8-8-8-24.

And how do I know if the cpu/nb is stable?
Edit: I did two tests. One with 2400 and one with 2600 on the cpu-nb.
Here's the result:

*2400Mhz*
*Graphics Score:* 3667
*Physics Score:* 7887
*Combined Score:* 3787

*X3887*

*2600MHz*
*Graphics Score:* 3671
*Physics Score:* 8449
*Combined Score:* 3796

*X3904*


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Right. My mem is running on 8-8-8-24.
> 
> And how do I know if the cpu/nb is stable?
> Edit: I did two tests. One with 2400 and one with 2600 on the cpu-nb.
> Here's the result:
> 
> *2400Mhz*
> *Graphics Score:* 3667
> *Physics Score:* 7887
> *Combined Score:* 3787
> 
> *X3887*
> 
> *2600MHz*
> *Graphics Score:* 3671
> *Physics Score:* 8449
> *Combined Score:* 3796
> 
> *X3904*


Just test cpu-nb as you would test the other overclocks. With blend or something that uses the ram much.

Nice.If that doesn't raise the heat much i would say it's a nice bonus


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Just test cpu-nb as you would test the other overclocks. With blend or something that uses the ram much.
> 
> Nice.If that doesn't raise the heat much i would say it's a nice bonus


Coolio! So do you reckon I should stress this for another 8-12h? Or is it fine with less?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Coolio! So do you reckon I should stress this for another 8-12h? Or is it fine with less?


Longer is always better but i don't think it will fail after a long time. It probably will BSOD or freeze early in the test.
You can always do IBT on max for like 4 runs. That stresses pretty much all ram available.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Longer is always better but i don't think it will fail after a long time. It probably will BSOD or freeze early in the test.
> You can always do IBT on max for like 4 runs. That stresses pretty much all ram available.


Just got error on core 0,1,2,3:
Fatal error: rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4 on the first 3 and fatal error: final result was 4690A9C3, expected: 38100A5F.
Should I turn up the cpu-nb voltage or cpu voltage?

Can't say I saw any difference in the temps though.

Edit: I decided I'm happy with the 4.7Ghz and I'm gonna stay with this for a while now at least








Thank you once again for the help.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Just got error on core 0,1,2,3:
> Fatal error: rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4 on the first 3 and fatal error: final result was 4690A9C3, expected: 38100A5F.
> Should I turn up the cpu-nb voltage or cpu voltage?
> 
> Can't say I saw any difference in the temps though.
> 
> Edit: I decided I'm happy with the 4.7Ghz and I'm gonna stay with this for a while now at least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you once again for the help.


After how long were the error's?
Your cpu-nb was at 1.225v already, was it?
Don't raise that higher. But as your temps stayed the same feel free to up the cpu voltage one notch. This chips don't care really how high the voltage of the cpu is as long as the temp stays within the proper range.








You can literally pump 2 volts through it as long as it stays nice and cool. But that will require extreme cooling.



BTW:
I don't know if you found out already but when you get blue screens while stressing it generally is memory related. Shutdowns temp related and freezes or core fails too low voltage somewhere.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I haven't started stress testing yet, but what is a typical voltage for a 5 GHz 6300? I booted into Windows at 1.5v, but is that usually too low or too high? Obviously a lot depends on whether or not you win the silicon lottery, but I'm just looking for a rough idea.

EDIT: Using Prime95 "Blend" preset, 15 seconds in and cores 4, 5, and 6 drop out. 30 seconds in and core 2 follows.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I haven't started stress testing yet, but what is a typical voltage for a 5 GHz 6300? I booted into Windows at 1.5v, but is that usually too low or too high? Obviously a lot depends on whether or not you win the silicon lottery, but I'm just looking for a rough idea.
> 
> EDIT: Using Prime95 "Blend" preset, 15 seconds in and cores 4, 5, and 6 drop out. 30 seconds in and core 2 follows.


The Typical voltage for 5.0Ghz is between 1.5v-1.55v.

How are your temps running Prime95? (Core and Socket)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> I haven't started stress testing yet, but what is a typical voltage for a 5 GHz 6300? I booted into Windows at 1.5v, but is that usually too low or too high? Obviously a lot depends on whether or not you win the silicon lottery, but I'm just looking for a rough idea.
> 
> EDIT: Using Prime95 "Blend" preset, 15 seconds in and cores 4, 5, and 6 drop out. 30 seconds in and core 2 follows.


There really isn't an "regular" voltage to say.
Like you said every chip is different. But it also depends on the motherboard and ram combo.

Just follow the overclock guide and don't jump to 5ghz straight away.
Increase in small steps.
When a core fails increase the voltage one step
Increase multi untill core fails or system freezes.
Increase voltage again.
If it still fails increase the voltage more.

Repeat this until you hit the thermal limit or your desired overclock

*Between each step stress with Prime smallFFTs(not blend) for like 10 minutes.

If you found your thermal limit or wanted overclock do Prime blend overnight(12 hours or so).

Hope this help.
Ask ahead if you want more info.


----------



## BillyBonz

Working it up to 4.6GHz on the old Dozer, for now I am running 4.5Ghz at 1.368v

http://valid.canardpc.com/86zv3m


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> Working it up to 4.6GHz on the old Dozer, for now I am running 4.5Ghz at 1.368v
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/86zv3m


Is that stable?
Would be nice voltage if it were.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

What sort of temps are you guys running? Just wondering how much further from my current 59C I dare to go.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> What sort of temps are you guys running? Just wondering how much further from my current 59C I dare to go.


Where is that temp coming up to you?
When doing blend? Because if you tip 61 when blending I would say you are good.

Normal usage will never get it that high anyway.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Where is that temp coming up to you?
> When doing blend? Because if you tip 61 when blending I would say you are good.
> 
> Normal usage will never get it that high anyway.


Chopper is absolutely right.

my highest "normal use" temps always come in game... unless I'm pushing more than 1.4 vcore.... at that point for some reason it seems to get warm quick, but level off pretty quick so that in game it still doesn't get much warmer than just opening a harsh program. That being said, before I panic over "stress test" temps, I'd run it for a day or so doing "normal" stuff like gaming and such.. just watch the temps.. and if it gets to warm, back down... that's how I came about my daily use OC's

edit: I'm kinda picky about this... but I don't like to see my socket temps over 50C or my core temps over 40C in game... but seriously so long as your harshest normal use on the warmest day stays below 60C Core and 65C socket you'll likely be good.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> but seriously so long as your harshest normal use on the warmest day stays below 60C Core and 65C socket you'll likely be good.


65C on socket under normal use? Not sure I will go that high... 65C under the heaviest conditions imaginable under full load would have been my own limit, so I suppose that's safe enough. Thanks for confirming that.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> 65C on socket under normal use? Not sure I will go that high... 65C under the heaviest conditions imaginable under full load would have been my own limit, so I suppose that's safe enough. Thanks for confirming that.


Everyone wants to keep it at their own "safe" temps.
Max core temp is 62c and socket temp is 72c.

I always just push the clock up till me cooling can just hold it below the max temp while running the harshest stress test. If it stays at 60 and 70 tops I am happy.
Under gaming my chip usually stays at around 45-50 on the socket and 40-45 on the cores.


----------



## BillyBonz

I tested it using IBT in Standard and High stress level for about 2 Hrs. Then I loaded up BL 2 and played a good solid hour and had no issue so far. The ambient temperature when I did the testing and gaming was 77F-78F, the core temp reached 57C on full load kind of close to that 61C max temp mark. Should I try and reseat the H100 with new thermal paste like Mx4? Maybe I can get better load temp?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

remember 61 C is the "recommended" max.. as safe point... even if you go over it doesn't mean death for you chip instantly.. just not something you'll want to do very often.. I had my old bulldozer chip up to 75C core temps..(trying to kill it actually... was getting vishera so didn't care lol) I ended up killing the mobo vrms instead.. pushing well past 5 ghz on it and stressing it... now I have a much better mobo... when I decide to upgrade... or if... this chip WILL DIE muhahaha ...wait I got side tracked...

you could try to reseat it.. .I was shocked how much better my temps got after reseating mine... I didn't even know I had a problem lol... but I must have not gotten it tightened even or something... anyway, I don't see temps like that on stressing unless I have my fans turned down and am pushing 4.8ghz.... on an H80 if that means anything to you.


----------



## BillyBonz

Tried IBT again on High stress lvl again, my computer restarted in the middle of the stress test, I upped the voltage to 1.368 and tested again and did not have issues. Core temperature reached 57C Max, Socket Temperature 61C Max. Maybe my Chip has more leakage and hence the high core temps? I will try reseating later on.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> remember 61 C is the "recommended" max.. as safe point... even if you go over it doesn't mean death for you chip instantly.. just not something you'll want to do very often.. I had my old bulldozer chip up to 75C core temps..(trying to kill it actually... was getting vishera so didn't care lol) I ended up killing the mobo vrms instead.. pushing well past 5 ghz on it and stressing it... now I have a much better mobo... when I decide to upgrade... or if... this chip WILL DIE muhahaha ...wait I got side tracked...
> 
> you could try to reseat it.. .I was shocked how much better my temps got after reseating mine... I didn't even know I had a problem lol... but I must have not gotten it tightened even or something... anyway, I don't see temps like that on stressing unless I have my fans turned down and am pushing 4.8ghz.... on an H80 if that means anything to you.


What was the difference then?
Because I have the h100 and having a hard time getting it cool enough on 4.7.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> Tried IBT again on High stress lvl again, my computer restarted in the middle of the stress test, I upped the voltage to 1.368 and tested again and did not have issues. Core temperature reached 57C Max, Socket Temperature 61C Max. Maybe my Chip has more leakage and hence the high core temps? I will try reseating later on.


Those temps at that low voltage definitely seem wrong.

Have you mounted the radiator as intake?


----------



## bphillips712

I have a Gigabyte 970A-DS3, I also have an FX-8350. What would be the most I could safely increase bus speed on this mobo? It isn't a very expensive one, but I am hoping to get a Formula Z soon. Just temporary what would be best. I believe it's at 2000MHz FBs.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2897367

I was having problems the other night with heat and performance, however I looked into it and disabled the Turbo Core and Enabled HPC mode. From there I have it at 4.2Ghz 1.332V. Also memory is Oc'd slightly up from 1600 to 1866 give or take. Left the memory voltage at 1.5. I want to get the most out of this mobo and cpu, hopfully postponing the upgrade at least a few months if possible. So let me know how much more you think I could safely up it. I would play around and figure it out but I would go overboard and break everything, just looking for a second opinion.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bphillips712*
> 
> I have a Gigabyte 970A-DS3, I also have an FX-8350. What would be the most I could safely increase bus speed on this mobo? It isn't a very expensive one, but I am hoping to get a Formula Z soon. Just temporary what would be best. I believe it's at 2000MHz FBs.
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/2897367
> 
> I was having problems the other night with heat and performance, however I looked into it and disabled the Turbo Core and Enabled HPC mode. From there I have it at 4.2Ghz 1.332V. Also memory is Oc'd slightly up from 1600 to 1866 give or take. Left the memory voltage at 1.5. I want to get the most out of this mobo and cpu, hopfully postponing the upgrade at least a few months if possible. So let me know how much more you think I could safely up it. I would play around and figure it out but I would go overboard and break everything, just looking for a second opinion.


I think it is just trial and error, like the rest of us.
But be sure not to raise voltages too much. That board has no vrm cooling. Which WILL hurt your overclock.
Maybe you can look into buying some heatsinks for it or you have a few laying around?
But as you said you are going to upgrade soon I think it will be a waste to buy some now....

Just go with the multi overclock. I think you should be happy with 4.2ghz on that board. What cpu cooler are you running?
If the cpu stays cool enough you can always try overclock the cpu-nb a bit and do benches to see the difference.

What ram are you running? Corsair 1600 what?
Your timings are a bit loose for that frequency. Maybe try tightening them a bit and overvolting a little: 1.55-1.6 and see how it goes. Just run memtest86 or prime blend to test that overclock.

Good luck.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What was the difference then?
> Because I have the h100 and having a hard time getting it cool enough on 4.7.


Not really sure... maybe voltage level, my particular chip... maybe your cpu/nb voltage who knows really.....although, it could have something to do with the way I have the airflow rigged.. I have a straight front to back airflow across the top of my case.. the front pulls air that's coming right off the air conditioner and I have a heat chimney in the back that channels all the heat up away from the machine...but really when I reseated it is when I noticed my temps drop a good bit. Oh and the temps referenced on 4.8 were not under extreme loads over hours remember.. I don't do the prime 95 for hours thing lol.. so that may be it too... if I left it running for hours it'd probably heat up lol...


----------



## BillyBonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What was the difference then?
> Because I have the h100 and having a hard time getting it cool enough on 4.7.
> Those temps at that low voltage definitely seem wrong.
> 
> Have you mounted the radiator as intake?


It is currently on exhaust mode on top of my case. The case is a Corsair 600T, I have 1 200MM and 2 120MM fan in the front as intake, on its side I installed 2 Corsair SP 120mm fans intake. A small 80mm fan coling vrms. Then a 120 SP as exhaust at the back plus the h100 as exhaust on the top. The fans are inside the case and the radiator sits on the top side of the mesh. If I were to change the h100 to intake do you think I should set the side fans as exhaust:questionm


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> It is currently on exhaust mode on top of my case. The case is a Corsair 600T, I have 1 200MM and 2 120MM fan in the front as intake, on its side I installed 2 Corsair SP 120mm fans intake. A small 80mm fan coling vrms. Then a 120 SP as exhaust at the back plus the h100 as exhaust on the top. The fans are inside the case and the radiator sits on the top side of the mesh. If I were to change the h100 to intake do you think I should set the side fans as exhaust:questionm


Thats a good question.... About the side in or out.
I can't really tell. I should just test things out and see how it goes. How did you manage to get the radiator on op of the case? Have you got tube length to play with?
Maybe you can use radiator spacers? And seal the top of the case, except the part where the tubes go in of course. That way you get the heat away completely from the case.
The rest of the fan setup seems pretty decent how you have it now.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

I find having a flow pattern helps... keeping the air moving in one direction if possible... my case was pretty easy with one exception... my flow goes from front to back nearly straight with fans pulling air into the case in the front and pushing out in the back... the only exception was right at the video cards... I had to put an exhaust fan there to keep their heat out of the case as much as possible... now as to keeping the cpu cooler... intake works..unless the exhaust heat from inside your pc will come back around and re-enter your case... I had to design an exhaust chimney to keep that from happening in my desk enclosure.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> I find having a flow pattern helps... keeping the air moving in one direction if possible... my case was pretty easy with one exception... my flow goes from front to back nearly straight with fans pulling air into the case in the front and pushing out in the back... the only exception was right at the video cards... I had to put an exhaust fan there to keep their heat out of the case as much as possible... now as to keeping the cpu cooler... intake works..unless the exhaust heat from inside your pc will come back around and re-enter your case... I had to design an exhaust chimney to keep that from happening in my desk enclosure.


That's also my problem. I have the h100 as intake and rear fan as exhaust. But the case is on the ground. With the "kinda" desk above it... So the heat is somewhat trapped.
Don't know how to fix that. Maybe exhaust will work better on mine.

I am also thinking of mounting the rad on top of the case. As i have cut almost all the mesh away from the top of my 650D. Just a shame i have the nice Demci filter. Would hate to see that go to waste.
Set me back like 25 euro inc. shipping.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> That's also my problem. I have the h100 as intake and rear fan as exhaust. But the case is on the ground. With the "kinda" desk above it... So the heat is somewhat trapped.
> Don't know how to fix that. Maybe exhaust will work better on mine.
> 
> I am also thinking of mounting the rad on top of the case. As i have cut almost all the mesh away from the top of my 650D. Just a shame i have the nice Demci filter. Would hate to see that go to waste.
> Set me back like 25 euro inc. shipping.


nice filter.. I am thinking of putting an intake filter on the front of mine... well just inside the vents lol... as for the exhaust... a little dryer vent tubing and handy work with tape and card stock paper you can make a chimney like I did.. run it up behind your desk or somewhere out of site and away from your pc.. that worked miracles for me.

edit: I forgot to mention that a good flow pattern resulted in ambient air temps inside the case staying around 25C.. so using the H80 as exhaust didn't really cost me anything temp wise.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> nice filter.. I am thinking of putting an intake filter on the front of mine... well just inside the vents lol... as for the exhaust... a little dryer vent tubing and handy work with tape and card stock paper you can make a chimney like I did.. run it up behind your desk or somewhere out of site and away from your pc.. that worked miracles for me.
> 
> edit: I forgot to mention that a good flow pattern resulted in ambient air temps inside the case staying around 25C.. so using the H80 as exhaust didn't really cost me anything temp wise.


Thanks dude. You got me going,

I will keep the h100 as intake as it is nicely filtered already.
But I will look if I can find one of these:



Look, I made a few pictures.


Epi© paint $k!llz







. Will mount the tube there, attached to the exhaust fan somehow.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

sounds like a plan.. because of my desk area, I was able to route mine behind the desk with minimal carving.. but looks like you have a good plan going.. as for attaching it to the exhaust, I honestly just used tape.. and a flange I made out of card stock paper that I stapled/taped onto the tube. I can't get to it to show pictures very well and all that one can see of it when the pc is in place is the card stock, but I found that plain old scotch tape sticks very well to my case in the back... the tubing is supported by ties so that it doesn't put any pressure on the tape... and when I pull out my PC it just hangs there... I would pull it out to send a picture, but with as many wires and other obstacles I have to overcome to get it out... I think I'll pass lol..


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> sounds like a plan.. because of my desk area, I was able to route mine behind the desk with minimal carving.. but looks like you have a good plan going.. as for attaching it to the exhaust, I honestly just used tape.. and a flange I made out of card stock paper that I stapled/taped onto the tube. I can't get to it to show pictures very well and all that one can see of it when the pc is in place is the card stock, but I found that plain old scotch tape sticks very well to my case in the back... the tubing is supported by ties so that it doesn't put any pressure on the tape... and when I pull out my PC it just hangs there... I would pull it out to send a picture, but with as many wires and other obstacles I have to overcome to get it out... I think I'll pass lol..


Hey,I've been doing a similar dryer vent install,but as my intake from my window a/c to the back of my case were my rad intake is.Blows cool air in through the rad over the mobo
and out the top and side.
Works pretty well,just used duct tape.Not pretty but functional


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Hey,I've been doing a similar dryer vent install,but as my intake from my window a/c to the back of my case were my rad intake is.Blows cool air in through the rad over the mobo
> and out the top and side.
> Works pretty well,just used duct tape.Not pretty but functional


I live in the country, duct tape is an acceptable decoration for anything.. way to go, that's a great idea there.







in the winter I've thought of pulling freezing cold air from outside into the case and re testing some of my OC's just to see if I could push past that 5.2ghz boundary I'm stuck at.


----------



## Chopper1591

Results









Used piece of plastic bottle which fitted perfectly.



The vent.



And on the case.


Turned out pretty nice I guess.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

lol I just replied to your pm asking what you used.. this is great man.. just great.. I'm going to get some bottle and re-do mine now

+ 1 on your rep for that!


----------



## Chopper1591

Haha thanks for the rep.









PM'ed you also.. lol


----------



## bond32

Lol what's the point of all that...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Lol what's the point of all that...


to keep heat from building up in small places where the pc sits.. I had the same trouble and did something similar.. reduced my temps a lot... ambient case temps dropped from 40C in game to 25C and cpu temps as well as gpu temps dropped radically not to mention all mobo components... all because heat was getting trapped in confined space and re-entering the pc... so vent the heat away and voila cooler pc


----------



## bond32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> to keep heat from building up in small places where the pc sits.. I had the same trouble and did something similar.. reduced my temps a lot... ambient case temps dropped from 40C in game to 25C and cpu temps as well as gpu temps dropped radically not to mention all mobo components... all because heat was getting trapped in confined space and re-entering the pc... so vent the heat away and voila cooler pc


I highly doubt temps would drop that much due to deflecting one 120mm fan away from the case (exhaust none the less).


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I highly doubt temps would drop that much due to deflecting one 120mm fan away from the case (exhaust none the less).


on mine it did... I have a thermal sensor hanging inside my case with a readout on the front... I saw the difference... it was real.. will not go back lol.. the heat from mine was from the H80 cooler I have that is setup as exhaust... it was rising getting trapped coming out the front of my enclosure... getting sucked in to my front intake vents right back into the pc.. .I tried reversing the H80 thinking that would help... not really.. it just heated up my inside case temps worse.. and redlined my vcore temps... so I had to come up with a solution... I went with straight front to back air flow pattern.. pushing in from the front pushing out at the back... and a vent tube carrying up the heat behind the desk... worked perfect. 15C temp drop in ambient case temps.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> I highly doubt temps would drop that much due to deflecting one 120mm fan away from the case (exhaust none the less).


I don't aim at that high a change.

But when doing long gaming session the heat coming from the exhaust is pretty high. And it gets trapped beneath the desk, then enters the h100 on the top which is intake....


----------



## bond32

Any specific reason why the top is intake?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bond32*
> 
> Any specific reason why the top is intake?


No i want to type it it sounds a bit silly.

Cool air intake....
And positive pressure. I was getting sick of the dust.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> No i want to type it it sounds a bit silly.
> 
> Cool air intake....
> And positive pressure. I was getting sick of the dust.


this is







but I want to say.. I love your avatar lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> this is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but I want to say.. I love your avatar lol


Of course you do.

It is damn epic.








But..... did you blink?


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Of course you do.
> 
> It is damn epic.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But..... did you blink?


I blinked... blunk... blunked...whatever if grammatically correct...


----------



## Minotaurtoo

found a larger version so its more epic... lol.. not going to steal your avatar though...don't worry.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minotaurtoo*
> 
> found a larger version so its more epic... lol.. not going to steal your avatar though...don't worry.


I claimed rights.
So try it and feel the wrath of the moderators....


----------



## aas88keyz

Since we started getting off topic I have a minor question that kinda relates to the thread. I just reseated a Phenom II BE965 in my 2nd pc and am doing a decent 4.1 GHz oc with my best load temps I ever had. I must be learning how do the TIM finally. This chip is advised to stay under 62*C max and I am at 49*C with vcore at 1.500v air cooled with with Bulldozer stock heatsink. Question is I lived by not raising my vcore beyond the 1.5v but if the TIM and the air cooling is doing it's job and I am at least 13 hours prime95 stable should I attempt to reach higher overclocks by raising voltage? I am actually asking this for how it relates to my FX-8120 in case I reseat the bulldozer and get the same temps or better with my H100. Thanks in advance.


----------



## bphillips712

It gets very unhappy when I try to tighten the clocks on the memory any further. Not sure why. They are Corsair Vengeance. Also when I try to up the voltage at all on them the mother board or something makes a whining sound. However I am picking up my Seidon 240m tomorrow with the Crosshair V so I will post the before and after if I am able to remember. Might also try and get a sound clip of the memory.


----------



## Minotaurtoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Since we started getting off topic I have a minor question that kinda relates to the thread. I just reseated a Phenom II BE965 in my 2nd pc and am doing a decent 4.1 GHz oc with my best load temps I ever had. I must be learning how do the TIM finally. This chip is advised to stay under 62*C max and I am at 49*C with vcore at 1.500v air cooled with with Bulldozer stock heatsink. Question is I lived by not raising my vcore beyond the 1.5v but if the TIM and the air cooling is doing it's job and I am at least 13 hours prime95 stable should I attempt to reach higher overclocks by raising voltage? I am actually asking this for how it relates to my FX-8120 in case I reseat the bulldozer and get the same temps or better with my H100. Thanks in advance.


for fx 1.55 is max recomended voltage, but in general, if your temps are acceptable, you are clear to push on.. I've found though that most bulldozer cpu's will push the limits of an H100 when the voltage reaches 1.5 and sometimes less.. really depends on a lot of things though.. only way to know for sure is to test.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Is voltage or temperature more likely to kill a CPU? Like, if I'm at 1.1v and 100 degrees or 2.5v and 40 degrees, which will kill it faster? My 6300 is unstable in Prime95 (first core drops after one minute, second after five, then I quit) but extremely stable for real-world scenarios and only peaked at 63 degrees at 4.8GHz @ 1.5v. I'm not sure if my motherboard can handle supplying much more power, actually, since it fails quickly at 5GHz. ASRock Extreme4 990FX if anybody knows about it.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Is voltage or temperature more likely to kill a CPU? Like, if I'm at 1.1v and 100 degrees or 2.5v and 40 degrees, which will kill it faster? My 6300 is unstable in Prime95 (first core drops after one minute, second after five, then I quit) but extremely stable for real-world scenarios and only peaked at 63 degrees at 4.8GHz @ 1.5v. I'm not sure if my motherboard can handle supplying much more power, actually, since it fails quickly at 5GHz. ASRock Extreme4 990FX if anybody knows about it.


FX are killed by temp. Rock the voltage on.

Is that socket temp or core?

If your socket stays below 70c and cores below 60c you can push on. But I highly recommend you to test with prime...
You got 62c while using "real-world" things?

If so, you are near or over your limit.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

That was bad phrasing. No, Prime95 peaked at 63 degrees. Real-world peaks around 55 in intense applications and hovers in the low 50s otherwise when running things. Idle is a bit below 40. I'm not sure if that was socket or core. It's whatever Speedfan is using in my Rainmeter script of choice. Overdrive showed about the same too. I'll check when I get home.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> That was bad phrasing. No, Prime95 peaked at 63 degrees. Real-world peaks around 55 in intense applications and hovers in the low 50s otherwise when running things. Idle is a bit below 40. I'm not sure if that was socket or core. It's whatever Speedfan is using in my Rainmeter script of choice. Overdrive showed about the same too. I'll check when I get home.


Don't use both.








Hwinfo64 is all you need.

Be sure to look up the proper temps. Don't kill the chip.
Can you post back the results?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

HWInfo is somewhat useless. It gives a value for CPU temperature identical to that of Speedfan and doesn't specify core or socket. With Core VI dropping out, temperatures still stay below 65 degrees.

EDIT: Okay, I just checked Overdrive. The 55ish degree temperatures it's giving are the core temperatures. The 63ish degree temperatures HWInfo and Speedfan are giving is presumably the socket temperatures.

EDIT 2: After Core II dropped out about 20-25 minutes in, the socket temperature quickly increased to 67 degrees within a minute after staying steady at 63 degrees earlier. Core temperatures are now 62.(a bit) for all six. I'll keeping going until it reads 70 degrees socket or 65 core.

EDIT 3: And 30 seconds after editing, Prime95 crashed. It's safe to say that I'll be fine in real world applications though.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> HWInfo is somewhat useless. It gives a value for CPU temperature identical to that of Speedfan and doesn't specify core or socket. With Core VI dropping out, temperatures still stay below 65 degrees.


No offense.
Use what you like the best. But be sure you can monitor both core and socket temps. You need both to stay below their max temps.
Hwmonitor is also used by many guys here. Just look up which readings are what. I use hwinfo64 because I can adjust the labels.

Mine looks like this:


You want to stay below this temps:

Cores: 62c
Socket: 72c

May I ask how you conclude it is "extremely stable" on normal usage? Because you don't get BSOD's, freezes or crashes?
Because I find that you get lower performance when the system is unstable.

I recommend you to work on the system until it is prime stable. By all means if you get core fails within a few minutes you are far from stable.
Failed cores want more voltage.
If your cooling can't cope with the heat, just lower the clock. I don't want to ruin your high overclock but don't run a chip unstable for long. It can get damaged by that.
Plus you can get a faster system with a lower clock that is actually stable. Do some benchmarks to compare the performance.

If you have any questions you can always send me an PM.
Good luck.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Blergh. You're right. I just want all the jiggahertz...









26 minutes (before Prime95 crashed) got me 10 degrees below both the maximums running 4.6GHz @ 1.425v. Had it run for another hour, they might've hit 55 and 65 degrees. No cores dropped this time, and I think this will be fine for the real world (do you really see 100% CPU usage for more than few seconds?) and I just want to shoot space robots right now. I'm not sure I can get much higher on this motherboard though. I can play around with the multiplier maybe, but I'll see no noticeable benefits. Thanks man. Have a rep.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Blergh. You're right. I just want all the jiggahertz...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 26 minutes (before Prime95 crashed) got me 10 degrees below both the maximums running 4.6GHz @ 1.425v. Had it run for another hour, they might've hit 55 and 65 degrees. No cores dropped this time, and I think this will be fine for the real world (do you really see 100% CPU usage for more than few seconds?) and I just want to shoot space robots right now. I'm not sure I can get much higher on this motherboard though. I can play around with the multiplier maybe, but I'll see no noticeable benefits. Thanks man. Have a rep.


Yeah that's better already. 4.6 ain't a bad overclock...
You can run smallFFTs for like 10 minutes to find out if your cooling can cope with the heat. Wont get much hotter then that.

Thanks for the rep.


----------



## nX3NTY

Hello all,

It's weird that everytime I try to prime or run IBT AVX it always fail but games runs fine for hours. And small FFT runs fine too, but introduce RAM to it it starts to fail. I don't even overclock the CPU-NB, does it need extra volts too even when we overclock the multiplier?


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah that's better already. 4.6 ain't a bad overclock...
> You can run smallFFTs for like 10 minutes to find out if your cooling can cope with the heat. Wont get much hotter then that.
> 
> Thanks for the rep.


You only get one. Don't waste it.

If I can get it stable, I want to get 4.71GHz so I can paraphrase Doc Brown. But this will do for now.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> It's weird that everytime I try to prime or run IBT AVX it always fail but games runs fine for hours. And small FFT runs fine too, but introduce RAM to it it starts to fail. I don't even overclock the CPU-NB, does it need extra volts too even when we overclock the multiplier?


When you overclock the cpu the stress on the IMC gets higher. Even though the cpu-nb and the ram are on stock settings.
If you get core failes up the voltage. Either be it cpu core or cpu-nb voltage. Just try it.

If it fails, it aint stable.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

I recently updated my bios and that pretty much wiped out my overclock. I already know all the stable settings do I still have to gradually get there one by one all over again? Or can I just shoot right to the top as I already know all the pertinent values? It would suck ass to have to set it all one by one, P95, etc etc..all over again


----------



## aas88keyz

There are many reasons why you would want to redo your overclocking from the begining. Main one is a lot of times the bios updates improve stability. In that case you potentially can lower your voltage requirements if it gets stable faster which would equal lower temps which raises the bar for your over all overclock. Also sometime the bios adds new features and controls which could do the same to you stability. My opinion... worth it everytime.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> There are many reasons why you would want to redo your overclocking from the begining. Main one is a lot of times the bios updates improve stability. In that case you potentially can lower your voltage requirements if it gets stable faster which would equal lower temps which raises the bar for your over all overclock. Also sometime the bios adds new features and controls which could do the same to you stability. My opinion... worth it everytime.


In which case it sounds easiest to revert settings and then lower the voltage until you're stable.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> There are many reasons why you would want to redo your overclocking from the begining. Main one is a lot of times the bios updates improve stability. In that case you potentially can lower your voltage requirements if it gets stable faster which would equal lower temps which raises the bar for your over all overclock. Also sometime the bios adds new features and controls which could do the same to you stability. My opinion... worth it everytime.


I hear ya, but this bios upgrade didn't add anything but a fix for the RTC button. No new features (at least nothing was listed, like not a thing) plus I didn't see anything new and different in the bios


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> I recently updated my bios and that pretty much wiped out my overclock. I already know all the stable settings do I still have to gradually get there one by one all over again? Or can I just shoot right to the top as I already know all the pertinent values? It would suck ass to have to set it all one by one, P95, etc etc..all over again


Voltage involved bumps I would increase in steps to be sure.
Because of the big stress bump else.

Just let it heat up a bit and raise again.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> There are many reasons why you would want to redo your overclocking from the begining. Main one is a lot of times the bios updates improve stability. In that case you potentially can lower your voltage requirements if it gets stable faster which would equal lower temps which raises the bar for your over all overclock. Also sometime the bios adds new features and controls which could do the same to you stability. My opinion... worth it everytime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In which case it sounds easiest to revert settings and then lower the voltage until you're stable.
Click to expand...

Ahh. Good advice. probably good rule to live by for cpu only overclocking. Rep+. My tendency is I always consider all component's on the pc for over all overclock and lowering the vcore only usually didn't benefit my cpu/nb, nb, memory clocks and latency along with the vcore. The benchmarks that I run usually approves the added performance so i take the extra time
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> There are many reasons why you would want to redo your overclocking from the begining. Main one is a lot of times the bios updates improve stability. In that case you potentially can lower your voltage requirements if it gets stable faster which would equal lower temps which raises the bar for your over all overclock. Also sometime the bios adds new features and controls which could do the same to you stability. My opinion... worth it everytime.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hear ya, but this bios upgrade didn't add anything but a fix for the RTC button. No new features (at least nothing was listed, like not a thing) plus I didn't see anything new and different in the bios
Click to expand...

In your case I think it would be safe to say your mostly right that if it is a fix for a certain component then your overclock is safe. Follow CynicalUnicorn's advice.


----------



## thor2002ro

hi guys,
I got an issue maybe you guys can fix....

my oc was rock solid till I got another pair of ram dimms(yes I need the ram!!!) so running 4x8gb now

my settings were
freq - 4.6ghz
cpu v - 1.5
cpu/nb v - 1.36
vdda - 2.69
nb - 2600mhz
ht - 2600mhz

ram at 1600 9-9-9-24 @ 1T with 1.55v

now I have
freq - 4.6ghz
cpu v - 1.5
cpu/nb v - 1.37
vdda - 2.69
nb - 2200mhz
ht - 2600mhz

ram at 1600 9-9-9-24 @ 1T with 1.57v

all oc is done with multiplier....

now the problem... the system is just "stablish" at random times be it idle or full load it will just bsod
so I covered by bases....
I tried prime95.... I left it 5h and it was still going no errors...
I tried memtest 3 passes no errors...

I tried everything from bumping the voltages with no success...
even tried ram at 2T its the same....

can anyone help me??? I'm struggling with this for about a week and I might throw it out the window pretty soon...


----------



## ChrisB17

I am having a hard time getting my ram to work at ddr3 2400 speeds. My mobo suppoets up to ddr3 2450 and my ram is stock speeds 2400. I kwwp getting prime errors when I blend test.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> hi guys,
> I got an issue maybe you guys can fix....
> 
> my oc was rock solid till I got another pair of ram dimms(yes I need the ram!!!) so running 4x8gb now
> 
> my settings were
> freq - 4.6ghz
> cpu v - 1.5
> cpu/nb v - 1.36
> vdda - 2.69
> nb - 2600mhz
> ht - 2600mhz
> 
> ram at 1600 9-9-9-24 @ 1T with 1.55v
> 
> now I have
> freq - 4.6ghz
> cpu v - 1.5
> cpu/nb v - 1.37
> vdda - 2.69
> nb - 2200mhz
> ht - 2600mhz
> 
> ram at 1600 9-9-9-24 @ 1T with 1.57v
> 
> all oc is done with multiplier....
> 
> now the problem... the system is just "stablish" at random times be it idle or full load it will just bsod
> so I covered by bases....
> I tried prime95.... I left it 5h and it was still going no errors...
> I tried memtest 3 passes no errors...
> 
> I tried everything from bumping the voltages with no success...
> even tried ram at 2T its the same....
> 
> can anyone help me??? I'm struggling with this for about a week and I might throw it out the window pretty soon...


It's hard telling with this few information.
Did you put 2 extra sticks in there? Or a new 4-stick set?
Are they identical? Frequency and timings?

Have you tried testing with the new sticks only?
You really need to start with ruling things out.
But it is weird that memtest and prime seem stable.
Have you ran the newest version of memtest?

Your vcore seems a bit high anyway...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChrisB17*
> 
> I am having a hard time getting my ram to work at ddr3 2400 speeds. My mobo suppoets up to ddr3 2450 and my ram is stock speeds 2400. I kwwp getting prime errors when I blend test.


Your board supports the speed. But you know the cpu only supports up to 1866 natively?
So when you clock the ram on 2400 it gives more stress on the imc. I don't know what your cpu overclock is? But overall if the cpu clock is higher the ram will be less stable.
You can try mess around with the voltages a bit. I would start with the cpu-nb voltage. Can also try cpu vcore and vdimm. But not all at once because you want to know what needs more.
If its a no go you may need to either lower the cpu or the ram.


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> It's hard telling with this few information.
> Did you put 2 extra sticks in there? Or a new 4-stick set?
> Are they identical? Frequency and timings?
> 
> Have you tried testing with the new sticks only?
> You really need to start with ruling things out.
> But it is weird that memtest and prime seem stable.
> Have you ran the newest version of memtest?
> 
> Your vcore seems a bit high anyway...


its just 2 new sticks... the other set is my older one
I tested the 2 new sticks separate and they are good...
only difference between the sticks is that my older set is v3 - Micron chips and new set is v2 - Elpida chips

I tested with memtest+ 4.20 and Memtest86 4.3.2 and the 5.0 beta

as for vcore always been this high for me otherwise it will not be stable same goes for cpu/nb
temperatures are under control 59c max on the cpu core

I also ruled out windows by running
"Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth"
and
"sfc /scannow"
no issues
I got no viruses or malware or cracked apps or other crappy stuff on my pc...

here are the bios settings


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> its just 2 new sticks... the other set is my older one
> I tested the 2 new sticks separate and they are good...
> only difference between the sticks is that my older set is v3 - Micron chips and new set is v2 - Elpida chips
> 
> I tested with memtest+ 4.20 and Memtest86 4.3.2 and the 5.0 beta
> 
> as for vcore always been this high for me otherwise it will not be stable same goes for cpu/nb
> temperatures are under control 59c max on the cpu core
> 
> I also ruled out windows by running
> "Dism /Online /Cleanup-Image /RestoreHealth"
> and
> "sfc /scannow"
> no issues
> I got no viruses or malware or cracked apps or other crappy stuff on my pc...
> 
> here are the bios settings


Maybe it is just that the two sets don't like each other. I have had that before. But I am not certain.
Are you possible to test the sets in another computer?
Weird that both sets work independently but together you get a BSOD but memtest works with all 4 installed....
Have you tried lowering the cpu clock and voltage just to be sure? You have to narrow things down more.

Can't make a decision which is the cause of the problem.

Me I don't like to put extra ram in just to be sure I always go for a new set when I need more ram.
Are you able to return the set? When did you buy it?


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> When you overclock the cpu the stress on the IMC gets higher. Even though the cpu-nb and the ram are on stock settings.
> If you get core failes up the voltage. Either be it cpu core or cpu-nb voltage. Just try it.
> 
> If it fails, it aint stable.


I was busy benching tweaking voltage to make it stable and forgot to see the CPU temperature that shoots up to 80C!!! Looks like CM Hyper 412 with a couple of Arctic F12 push-pull isn't enough to cool it down, but is it possible temperature makes the core fails in benchmarks?

Staying at 4.3GHz stock 1.375Vcore for now, loads package temp is 61C which is the limit of what I wanted. Game loads like Tomb Raider is only 50C.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> I was busy benching tweaking voltage to make it stable and forgot to see the CPU temperature that shoots up to 80C!!! Looks like CM Hyper 412 with a couple of Arctic F12 push-pull isn't enough to cool it down, but is it possible temperature makes the core fails in benchmarks?
> 
> Staying at 4.3GHz stock 1.375Vcore for now, loads package temp is 61C which is the limit of what I wanted. Game loads like Tomb Raider is only 50C.


Yeah these chips put out some heat hehe. I have the h100 and it still isn't great for this chip. I can manage to about 4.7 depending on the ambient.

Have you looked at the cpu usage in some games?








I also have about 10-15c lower in games then in stress tests. This is normal.

Where did you get that temp? What were you running?
When you upgrade to another cooler go a good dual tower if you go air. And if you want to go water. By all means just save the money to go full custom.


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Maybe it is just that the two sets don't like each other. I have had that before. But I am not certain.
> Are you possible to test the sets in another computer?
> Weird that both sets work independently but together you get a BSOD but memtest works with all 4 installed....
> Have you tried lowering the cpu clock and voltage just to be sure? You have to narrow things down more.
> 
> Can't make a decision which is the cause of the problem.
> 
> Me I don't like to put extra ram in just to be sure I always go for a new set when I need more ram.
> Are you able to return the set? When did you buy it?


I tired going [email protected], as for cpu/nb voltage I can't touch it... at 1.3 it will bsod at windows startup and around 1.33+ it starts to get stable...
I don't have another pc to test them in...my other pc uses ddr2
maybe the imc is causing some kind of instability.... and just goes into ram failure after some time...can I go higher on the cpu/nb voltage?
I mean it weird... sometimes it can bsod in minutes after boot and other times it will bsod after 5-10h of no issues...and when I mean no issues I mean NO ISSUES... I constantly monitor windows and services/programs are not unstable and nothing errors out....

been thinking will it help if I switch my oc to fsb instead of multi?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> I tired going [email protected], as for cpu/nb voltage I can't touch it... at 1.3 it will bsod at windows startup and around 1.33+ it starts to get stable...
> I don't have another pc to test them in...my other pc uses ddr2
> maybe the imc is causing some kind of instability.... and just goes into ram failure after some time...can I go higher on the cpu/nb voltage?
> I mean it weird... sometimes it can bsod in minutes after boot and other times it will bsod after 5-10h of no issues...and when I mean no issues I mean NO ISSUES... I constantly monitor windows and services/programs are not unstable and nothing errors out....
> 
> been thinking will it help if I switch my oc to fsb instead of multi?


It seems a bit off that you need that cpu-nb voltage to be stable. I can do 4.8 with cpu-nb at stock.

Start with setting your cpu at stock. Not a bit lower, stock. Set the ram at the correct timings and see how it goes.
If you get bsod's with stock settings I am thinking you have some hardware failure.

Start with that and report back, then we can look further.


----------



## Maximus2501

ComputerRestore,

"Holy crap" literally escaped my lips when I first fell upon your guide!







You've put a butt-load of time and effort into this...Thank you!!









I'd been toying with OC'ing awhile back, but didn't ever feel like I was doing it correctly. Yeah, I had my FX-6100 clocked to 4.0Ghz, but it didn't feel "right" if you know what I mean? Anyway, holding your hand, I started from scratch last night...

Ended up with 4.3Ghz at 1.356v. Prime95 ran for about 45 minutes with zero errors. Ran again this morning before work...48 minutes in the 5th core dropped.
Not to worried though, as I've never been able to get past that 4.0Ghz mark before last night!

Anyway, thanks again for your hard work! Looking forward to see how far I can push it!

What I'm working with:
MoBo: Sabertooth 990FX/GEN2 R2.0 (BIOS version 1802)
CPU: FX-6100

BTW, if it's cool with the community...I'll post my progress and benchmarks?

P.S. I am also a noobie to the whole Forum world...please be gentle.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah these chips put out some heat hehe. I have the h100 and it still isn't great for this chip. I can manage to about 4.7 depending on the ambient.
> 
> Have you looked at the cpu usage in some games?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also have about 10-15c lower in games then in stress tests. This is normal.
> 
> Where did you get that temp? What were you running?
> When you upgrade to another cooler go a good dual tower if you go air. And if you want to go water. By all means just save the money to go full custom.


Once you touch the voltage the temperature starts to get out of control. I'm playing safe with stock Vcore till I bought new cooler.

I haven't, I thought I did but I'm not surprised if it's low









I'm running prime95 blend test, temperature monitoring using HWMonitor. I don't know if I wanted full custom, because I never did watercooling before. Perhaps a CM Seidon 240M since it cools just as good as H100 but a lot cheaper. I don't know if Noctua DH-14 is good upgrade or not or get the AIO watercool setup


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> I tired going [email protected], as for cpu/nb voltage I can't touch it... at 1.3 it will bsod at windows startup and around 1.33+ it starts to get stable...
> I don't have another pc to test them in...my other pc uses ddr2
> maybe the imc is causing some kind of instability.... and just goes into ram failure after some time...can I go higher on the cpu/nb voltage?
> I mean it weird... sometimes it can bsod in minutes after boot and other times it will bsod after 5-10h of no issues...and when I mean no issues I mean NO ISSUES... I constantly monitor windows and services/programs are not unstable and nothing errors out....
> 
> been thinking will it help if I switch my oc to fsb instead of multi?


Your issue sounds strangely familiar to this other one I was helping with. The person was running two different models of the same Brand of Ram, with the same timings etc between all of them, but...they weren't paired with the right ones in the Ram slots on the motherboard.

So make sure that you have the proper sticks paired in Dual Channel.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus2501*
> 
> ComputerRestore,
> 
> "Holy crap" literally escaped my lips when I first fell upon your guide!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've put a butt-load of time and effort into this...Thank you!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd been toying with OC'ing awhile back, but didn't ever feel like I was doing it correctly. Yeah, I had my FX-6100 clocked to 4.0Ghz, but it didn't feel "right" if you know what I mean? Anyway, holding your hand, I started from scratch last night...
> 
> Ended up with 4.3Ghz at 1.356v. Prime95 ran for about 45 minutes with zero errors. Ran again this morning before work...48 minutes in the 5th core dropped.
> Not to worried though, as I've never been able to get past that 4.0Ghz mark before last night!
> 
> Anyway, thanks again for your hard work! Looking forward to see how far I can push it!
> 
> What I'm working with:
> MoBo: Sabertooth 990FX/GEN2 R2.0 (BIOS version 1802)
> CPU: FX-6100
> 
> BTW, if it's cool with the community...I'll post my progress and benchmarks?
> 
> P.S. I am also a noobie to the whole Forum world...please be gentle.


Nice setup. You have a great platform for overclocking that 6100. Feel free to post your OC results. It'll be very interesting to see how far you can push it.
You can post any Benchmarks if you like too. Just wrap it in the Spoiler Tag so it doesn't take over the whole page.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus2501*
> 
> ComputerRestore,
> 
> "Holy crap" literally escaped my lips when I first fell upon your guide!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've put a butt-load of time and effort into this...Thank you!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd been toying with OC'ing awhile back, but didn't ever feel like I was doing it correctly. Yeah, I had my FX-6100 clocked to 4.0Ghz, but it didn't feel "right" if you know what I mean? Anyway, holding your hand, I started from scratch last night...
> 
> Ended up with 4.3Ghz at 1.356v. Prime95 ran for about 45 minutes with zero errors. Ran again this morning before work...48 minutes in the 5th core dropped.
> Not to worried though, as I've never been able to get past that 4.0Ghz mark before last night!
> 
> Anyway, thanks again for your hard work! Looking forward to see how far I can push it!
> 
> What I'm working with:
> MoBo: Sabertooth 990FX/GEN2 R2.0 (BIOS version 1802)
> CPU: FX-6100
> 
> BTW, if it's cool with the community...I'll post my progress and benchmarks?
> 
> P.S. I am also a noobie to the whole Forum world...please be gentle.


Welcome aboard Maximus2501,

Good to hear you made some nice progress with this epic guide.
Can I ask what cooler you are using?

By all means post the progress and benches.
Food for us people.









Good luck on the overclock journey.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Once you touch the voltage the temperature starts to get out of control. I'm playing safe with stock Vcore till I bought new cooler.
> 
> I haven't, I thought I did but I'm not surprised if it's low
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running prime95 blend test, temperature monitoring using HWMonitor. I don't know if I wanted full custom, because I never did watercooling before. Perhaps a CM Seidon 240M since it cools just as good as H100 but a lot cheaper. I don't know if Noctua DH-14 is good upgrade or not or get the AIO watercool setup


Custom loops aren't that hard. And they don't have to be that expensive either.
Trust me, if you plan to get an AIO just go all out and buy an XSPC rasa or raystorm kit. You can't go wrong with that.

Like I said, the h100 will still struggle with this heat these chips put out.
If I had the chance to do it over I wouldn't buy the h100.
When the XSPC kits are too expensive you can always look if you can find one of the Swiftech h220 kits. Those are pretty good, and expendable later if you want to cool the board or gpu later.


----------



## link1393

Can I overclock my FX-6100 more than 4Ghz on a M5A97 R1.0 ? Or 4Ghz is the limit for this board.
Now I'm at 4013Mhz and my voltage is set to 1.45.

Thanks


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> Can I overclock my FX-6100 more than 4Ghz on a M5A97 R1.0 ? Or 4Ghz is the limit for this board.
> Now I'm at 4013Mhz and my voltage is set to 1.45.
> 
> Thanks


I have no experience with that board but as long as your temps are good I think you should be able to push higher.
What are the full settings? cpu-nb/voltage, ram etc.

What temps do you get now. Can you read out the motherboard vrm temp?


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Your issue sounds strangely familiar to this other one I was helping with. The person was running two different models of the same Brand of Ram, with the same timings etc between all of them, but...they weren't paired with the right ones in the Ram slots on the motherboard.
> 
> So make sure that you have the proper sticks paired in Dual Channel.
> Nice setup. You have a great platform for overclocking that 6100. Feel free to post your OC results. It'll be very interesting to see how far you can push it.
> You can post any Benchmarks if you like too. Just wrap it in the Spoiler Tag so it doesn't take over the whole page.


Thank you! I'll try and post some results when I can...

Also, thanks for the tip on the Spoiler Tag...was wondering why your guide was full of those things!


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Guys I have reason to believe overclocking broke my CPU or MB... I ran my 4GHz clock on my FX-6100 for nearly a month and it was rock solid. But then my PC started crashing and powering off randomly. Clearing CMOS and updating BIOS did nothing. Same story with tweaking BIOS to increase stability. Now it has also started having problems with booting up... Getting it going is just a lottery. Occasionally the CPU led on the MB is on when not booting up. Once it gets going, BIOS claims there's an OC failure, though i'm backto stock atm. OC temps were 59 C socket/ 48C core, so I doubt the temps did anything... I have accepted the fact that I might habeto replace something, but I'm not sure which component is failing. Any help would be appreciated as I no longer have any idea...


----------



## FatedFrenzy

What is your PSU?


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Welcome aboard Maximus2501,
> 
> Good to hear you made some nice progress with this epic guide.
> Can I ask what cooler you are using?
> 
> By all means post the progress and benches.
> Food for us people.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck on the overclock journey.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom loops aren't that hard. And they don't have to be that expensive either.
> Trust me, if you plan to get an AIO just go all out and buy an XSPC rasa or raystorm kit. You can't go wrong with that.
> 
> Like I said, the h100 will still struggle with this heat these chips put out.
> If I had the chance to do it over I wouldn't buy the h100.
> When the XSPC kits are too expensive you can always look if you can find one of the Swiftech h220 kits. Those are pretty good, and expendable later if you want to cool the board or gpu later.


Thanks for the welcome, Sir! Yep, it was exciting to see some real progress.









To answer your question, I have the H100, and have for over a year now. It replaced my Zalman's CNPS9500A...Long story short. I hated the 3 button fan speed thingy on the block, so I installed the Fractal Adjust 108 fan controller. (I put each fan on their own dial) I keep the CPU fans about a quarter of the way up on the controller during everyday stuff. (Good low noise/idle temps of 32C to 35C) I'll push the dials up to 3/4 for gaming. 100% for encoding and running Prime.

My max temp from last night was 45C after running Prime for 45 minutes.

All 'n all...I've been very happy with my H100!







However...a lot has changed in the last year...and I wish I'd been more patient and looked further into setting up a custom loop then, instead of just pulling the trigger on the H100. Live and learn, right?!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Once you touch the voltage the temperature starts to get out of control. I'm playing safe with stock Vcore till I bought new cooler.
> 
> I haven't, I thought I did but I'm not surprised if it's low
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running prime95 blend test, temperature monitoring using HWMonitor. I don't know if I wanted full custom, because I never did watercooling before. Perhaps a CM Seidon 240M since it cools just as good as H100 but a lot cheaper. I don't know if Noctua DH-14 is good upgrade or not or get the AIO watercool setup


My 2 cents: I second Chopper's comment...


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> What is your PSU?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> What is your PSU?


Aerocool VP -750 (rig is in my sig).
One scary thing I heard today is that a low quality PSU can get damage by OC and then hurt other parts too...


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Guys I have reason to believe overclocking broke my CPU or MB... I ran my 4GHz clock on my FX-6100 for nearly a month and it was rock solid. But then my PC started crashing and powering off randomly. Clearing CMOS and updating BIOS did nothing. Same story with tweaking BIOS to increase stability. Now it has also started having problems with booting up... Getting it going is just a lottery. Occasionally the CPU led on the MB is on when not booting up. Once it gets going, BIOS claims there's an OC failure, though i'm backto stock atm. OC temps were 59 C socket/ 48C core, so I doubt the temps did anything... I have accepted the fact that I might habeto replace something, but I'm not sure which component is failing. Any help would be appreciated as I no longer have any idea...


Have you tried replacing the thermal paste? If it were me, I'd remove the heatsink, replace the paste and try again. I'd also make sure the heatsink is making contact with the CPU.

Good luck!


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus2501*
> 
> Have you tried replacing the thermal paste? If it were me, I'd remove the heatsink, replace the paste and try again. I'd also make sure the heatsink is making contact with the CPU.
> 
> Good luck!


That would show in temps. The lastttime it ran the temps were perfectly ok (idle @ 31C socket / 13C core). Will buy more thermal paste tomorrow and try though.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus2501*
> 
> Have you tried replacing the thermal paste? If it were me, I'd remove the heatsink, replace the paste and try again. I'd also make sure the heatsink is making contact with the CPU.
> 
> Good luck!


That would show in temps. The lastttime it ran the temps were perfectly ok (idle @ 31C socket / 13C core). Will buy more thermal paste tomorrow and try though.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Aerocool VP -750 (rig is in my sig).
> One scary thing I heard today is that a low quality PSU can get damage by OC and then hurt other parts too...


Thats not completely correct the way you tell it.
But a low quality psu in general doesn't supply as clean power as a good psu would.
Point is. If the psu dies there is a chance it takes out other components too, yes.

Myself I never save money by buying a cheap psu.
It is driving the system...


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> That would show in temps. The lastttime it ran the temps were perfectly ok (idle @ 31C socket / 13C core). Will buy more thermal paste tomorrow and try though.


I was quite hesitant to reply noting A. You'd mentioned your temps, and B. It seemed to also be an intermittent power up issue.
None the less, I thought I'd offer as I had seen a similar issue with a friends new build (FX-81XX on an ROG board) that would die after being up for an hour even though the temps were good via HWMonitor. He found that the heatsink wasn't seated properly, and that there was a lack of thermal paste on it...


----------



## FatedFrenzy

There are worse PSUs out there but it very well might be the culprit. Can you get your hands on another PSU, swap it and test?

Idk, to me it sounds like that's the problem.


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> It seems a bit off that you need that cpu-nb voltage to be stable. I can do 4.8 with cpu-nb at stock.
> 
> Start with setting your cpu at stock. Not a bit lower, stock. Set the ram at the correct timings and see how it goes.
> If you get bsod's with stock settings I am thinking you have some hardware failure.
> 
> Start with that and report back, then we can look further.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Your issue sounds strangely familiar to this other one I was helping with. The person was running two different models of the same Brand of Ram, with the same timings etc between all of them, but...they weren't paired with the right ones in the Ram slots on the motherboard.
> 
> So make sure that you have the proper sticks paired in Dual Channel.


ok guys I tested stock settings still bsod's....

also the ram is correctly paired... and dual channel is active...

now looking around I noticed something in the memory profiles....

[NEW STICKS 16GB Corsair V2 - Elpida chips]
Extreme Memory Profile v1.2
Profile NameEnthusiast (Certified)
Memory SpeedDDR3-1600 (800 MHz)
Voltage1.50 V (Memory Controller: 1.20 V)
Refresh Period (tREF)7.8 us
Recommended DIMMs Per Channel1
@ 800 MHz9-9-9-24 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 41-128-2-6-12-6-6-30-9 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)
@ 533 MHz6-6-6-16 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 27-86-2-4-8-4-4-20-6 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)

[OLD STICKS 16GB Corsair V3 - Micron chips]
Extreme Memory Profile v1.3
Profile NameEnthusiast (Certified)
Memory SpeedDDR3-1600 (800 MHz)
Voltage1.50 V (Memory Controller: 1.30 V)
Refresh Period (tREF)7.8 us
Recommended DIMMs Per Channel1
@ 800 MHz9-9-9-24 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 41-208-2-6-12-6-6-30-8 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)
@ 533 MHz6-6-6-16 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 27-139-2-4-8-4-4-20-6 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)

looking closely... I found that some of the profile settings are different... mainly WCL and RFC
so I made the changes to WCL only since I don't have RFC 208 setting... only 160 that worked fine on the old sticks before the new ones and 300ns...and I don't wanna go that extreme...
also if you look closely the old ram says memory controller at 1.3... so that explains my high cpu/nb voltage requirements....

now running with these settings and hopping for the best....
what you guys think ??


----------



## dallas1990

thanks to this guide im oc my fx-8320 lot better. atm im at 4.4ghz doing the 10 minute test. my temps are at the socket 56c and the cpu itself is at 43c. at stock volts to

i'll keep going till i push it as far as i can. im hoping to hit 5ghz. i'll post pics when i hit my max









also is the max socket temp 72c or 70c? and is the fx-8320 max temp 62c? i just want to make sure i got the right temps.

im using the asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> There are worse PSUs out there but it very well might be the culprit. Can you get your hands on another PSU, swap it and test?
> 
> Idk, to me it sounds like that's the problem.


I have a cheapy 650W one lying around... might be good for testing if my PSU is actually damaged I suppose, but won't go easier on my CPU and MB.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> ok guys I tested stock settings still bsod's....
> 
> also the ram is correctly paired... and dual channel is active...
> 
> now looking around I noticed something in the memory profiles....
> 
> [NEW STICKS 16GB Corsair V2 - Elpida chips]
> Extreme Memory Profile v1.2
> Profile NameEnthusiast (Certified)
> Memory SpeedDDR3-1600 (800 MHz)
> Voltage1.50 V (Memory Controller: 1.20 V)
> Refresh Period (tREF)7.8 us
> Recommended DIMMs Per Channel1
> @ 800 MHz9-9-9-24 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 41-128-2-6-12-6-6-30-9 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)
> @ 533 MHz6-6-6-16 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 27-86-2-4-8-4-4-20-6 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)
> 
> [OLD STICKS 16GB Corsair V3 - Micron chips]
> Extreme Memory Profile v1.3
> Profile NameEnthusiast (Certified)
> Memory SpeedDDR3-1600 (800 MHz)
> Voltage1.50 V (Memory Controller: 1.30 V)
> Refresh Period (tREF)7.8 us
> Recommended DIMMs Per Channel1
> @ 800 MHz9-9-9-24 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 41-208-2-6-12-6-6-30-8 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)
> @ 533 MHz6-6-6-16 (CL-RCD-RP-RAS) / 27-139-2-4-8-4-4-20-6 (RC-RFC-CR-RRD-WR-WTR-RTP-FAW-WCL)
> 
> looking closely... I found that some of the profile settings are different... mainly WCL and RFC
> so I made the changes to WCL only since I don't have RFC 208 setting... only 160 that worked fine on the old sticks before the new ones and 300ns...and I don't wanna go that extreme...
> also if you look closely the old ram says memory controller at 1.3... so that explains my high cpu/nb voltage requirements....
> 
> now running with these settings and hopping for the best....
> what you guys think ??


Never noticed that before, with the higher imc voltage requirement...
Can hardly believe some ram needs the cpu-nb voltage to be over stock.

But what you noticed about the timings. If one set is slow you take that settings. Put both sets at the lower settings and it should work.
If it doesn't I advice you to either take the set back to the store for refund if possible. Or sell both sets and get one dual channel kit of two sticks and use that.
It really looks like a compatibility problem because both sets work correctly when used apart from each other.
You can always try to give the ram a small bump in voltage to see if it gets stable.

Let us know what you achieve.
Good luck.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> I have a cheapy 650W one lying around... might be good for testing if my PSU is actually damaged I suppose, but won't go easier on my CPU and MB.


Go for it.
It's just for ruling things out. Just connect the psu externally to the system. No need to build it in. Cables should be long enough. Connect as few components as possible.

Post back your findings.










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> thanks to this guide im oc my fx-8320 lot better. atm im at 4.4ghz doing the 10 minute test. my temps are at the socket 56c and the cpu itself is at 43c. at stock volts to
> 
> i'll keep going till i push it as far as i can. im hoping to hit 5ghz. i'll post pics when i hit my max
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also is the max socket temp 72c or 70c? and is the fx-8320 max temp 62c? i just want to make sure i got the right temps.
> 
> im using the asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0


Hey welcome to the club








Quote:


> Thermal Limits:
> CPU Core - 62 Celsius
> CPU Socket - 72 Celsius


The socket temp is the temperature of the cpu itself.
Core are the cores in the chip. Usually the core temps will be lower so you should be able to keep them apart.

Those are the max recommended. It's not like your chip dies instantly when going over it but It won't like it for prolonged time. So if you are around that temp when fully stressing it you should be good. Normal usage will never get it that high anyway.

I hope you hit the 5ghz. But expect a pretty big V bump after some clocking. Hope your cooling can cope with it.
How is your ambient temp?


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Custom loops aren't that hard. And they don't have to be that expensive either.
> Trust me, if you plan to get an AIO just go all out and buy an XSPC rasa or raystorm kit. You can't go wrong with that.
> 
> Like I said, the h100 will still struggle with this heat these chips put out.
> If I had the chance to do it over I wouldn't buy the h100.
> When the XSPC kits are too expensive you can always look if you can find one of the Swiftech h220 kits. Those are pretty good, and expendable later if you want to cool the board or gpu later.


My local shop do sell Swiftech H220 and H320, and it's cheaper than H100 too!

There are a couple of sort of XSPC like (probably rebadged) of GF-600 and GF-890. It's expensive but I could afford it, is it worth it if I get one?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> My local shop do sell Swiftech H220 and H320, and it's cheaper than H100 too!
> 
> There are a couple of sort of XSPC like (probably rebadged) of GF-600 and GF-890. It's expensive but I could afford it, is it worth it if I get one?


I am not too sure about the fake xspc kits.
Could be nice or could be waste of the money.

To be safe I would just go with the h320 if your case can fit it. And maybe extend the loop with another 240 or 120 rad if you have the room.
As you said the Swiftechs are nicely priced.

Just my


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I am not too sure about the fake xspc kits.
> Could be nice or could be waste of the money.
> 
> To be safe I would just go with the h320 if your case can fit it. And maybe extend the loop with another 240 or 120 rad if you have the room.
> As you said the Swiftechs are nicely priced.
> 
> Just my


Thanks, I don't know if it fake or not, but their keyboards were good. I see that this company took pretty much everything from other company.

I don't believe H320 triple rads will fit on CoolerMaster CM690 but I am interested to buy it anyway haha. I even thinking of buying 2nd PSU to power just the CPU for overclocking.

+ rep for you sir, thank you for all your replies and guidance


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Thanks, I don't know if it fake or not, but their keyboards were good. I see that this company took pretty much everything from other company.
> 
> I don't believe H320 triple rads will fit on CoolerMaster CM690 but I am interested to buy it anyway haha. I even thinking of buying 2nd PSU to power just the CPU for overclocking.
> 
> + rep for you sir, thank you for all your replies and guidance


I opt for the Swiftech because they have a good pump to support multiple extra parts in the loop. And you can't beat that price I guess.
I had the cm690 before the 650d I have now. Can't fit 360 rad in the top without modding.
But if you are handy with power tools you can make it fit on top of the case. That would also help the cooling performance.
Just go with what you like the most. I am sure you will also be happy with the other kits, but like I said you can just as well extend the Swiftech loop with cooling for the gpu and/or motherboard.
That is the best route IMO. You want cool vrm's on the board to overclock the cpu hard.

And why a second psu?
You'd be better of just by buying a good 750 or 850 watt unit.

Can you post results when you have set your mind on what to get?
Would like to see the build afterwards.

And thanks for the rep









Edit:
Nice mouse pad btw.
I have the Goliathus Control. Loving this thing for years. Had an Razer Destructor in between but couldn't get used to it so went to buy another Goliathus.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I opt for the Swiftech because they have a good pump to support multiple extra parts in the loop. And you can't beat that price I guess.
> I had the cm690 before the 650d I have now. Can't fit 360 rad in the top without modding.
> But if you are handy with power tools you can make it fit on top of the case. That would also help the cooling performance.
> Just go with what you like the most. I am sure you will also be happy with the other kits, but like I said you can just as well extend the Swiftech loop with cooling for the gpu and/or motherboard.
> That is the best route IMO. You want cool vrm's on the board to overclock the cpu hard.
> 
> And why a second psu?
> You'd be better of just by buying a good 750 or 850 watt unit.
> 
> Can you post results when you have set your mind on what to get?
> Would like to see the build afterwards.
> 
> And thanks for the rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Nice mouse pad btw.
> I have the Goliathus Control. Loving this thing for years. Had an Razer Destructor in between but couldn't get used to it so went to buy another Goliathus.


I'm handy with power tools and have dremel but I don't want to lose the top panel USB header so perhaps I will buy H220. I already mod the top half of the grille and remove the plastic there to fit fan there









I will put stock AMD fan on the VRM to cool it down, what awesome this case is it already got rear fan to blow behind the motherboard.

Second PSU is just my silly plan, since high power PSU with those 80+ cert is pretty costly and I don't have money to buy it. The voltages of my current CPU were fine, Using multimeter the 12V rail stays about ~12.24V under load so I don't believe I run out of power, but I will never know when I'm going watercooling and going to unknown waters









I will post my PC setup when I bought and install it, if I'm free I will buy H220 tomorrow.

Yup Goliathus is awesome, but it has worn out pretty bad from my abuse and some solder flying and got stuck on top (already remove it but it leave a nasty scar) but it still works fine till this day.


----------



## dallas1990

My CPU cooler is a swiftech h220. So far its been holding well. I also have 10 fans going 7 intake 3 exhaust lol. CPU core and socket rose by 1c for every bump. At 4.5 GHz I finally had to up the voltage by 1 point. But I got a unusual prime test. I do 8 test threads and one stopped texting around minute 8 of the test. Got no errors was going to look it up but I had to get some sleep.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> My CPU cooler is a swiftech h220. So far its been holding well. I also have 10 fans going 7 intake 3 exhaust lol. CPU core and socket rose by 1c for every bump. At 4.5 GHz I finally had to up the voltage by 1 point. But I got a unusual prime test. I do 8 test threads and one stopped texting around minute 8 of the test. Got no errors was going to look it up but I had to get some sleep.


Just up the voltage 1 bump more and see how it goes.

But can I ask, why 10 fans?








More isn't generally better you know. It's all about the correct flow.


----------



## dallas1990

I live next to a dirt road and the positive pressure in my case helps a lot. Instead of dusting once a week I'm dusting it once a month on average. Also I don't like my Asus gtx 670 get hotter than mid 60's range.

As of air flow it goes from bottom/ front to top/back. And my PC is on a desk.

I know 10 fans is a bit over kill but I rather keep things nice and cool. My GPU idk whats the Max safe temp is but a friend told me don't let it go higher than 70c.

But when i get home i'll re do the test if samething i'll bump up the volts.

Also on my mobo can i adjust the volts and cpu ratio with the "turbo evo" program in the ai suite 2? Or is it best to keep restarting my PC and change it in the bios?


----------



## FatedFrenzy

I don't think you can run two PSUs, I believe it MUST have signal from the MOBO in order for it to put out power.

If you find out that it's NOT the PSU that is your issue and it's Incompatible RAM, I would still buy a new PSU. Why take the chance of having a lower end one?

I always recommend the XFX line of PSUs. They're all at least bronze certified, always have one or more on sale, decently priced, great looking AND they're Seasonic electronics.

And also I recommend a modular PSU if you don't have one already. They're SO worth the extra money.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I live next to a dirt road and the positive pressure in my case helps a lot. Instead of dusting once a week I'm dusting it once a month on average. Also I don't like my Asus gtx 670 get hotter than mid 60's range.
> 
> As of air flow it goes from bottom/ front to top/back. And my PC is on a desk.
> 
> I know 10 fans is a bit over kill but I rather keep things nice and cool. My GPU idk whats the Max safe temp is but a friend told me don't let it go higher than 70c.
> 
> But when i get home i'll re do the test if samething i'll bump up the volts.
> 
> Also on my mobo can i adjust the volts and cpu ratio with the "turbo evo" program in the ai suite 2? Or is it best to keep restarting my PC and change it in the bios?


Yeah dust is a killer I know what you mean.
But I think you can have proper positive pressure with less fans.
I don't want to give you extra work or something but what I would do if I had your setup: setup the h220 that it exhaust out the top and make the rest of the fans as intake. Also the rear fan so it blows fresh air to the radiator. Or if you have the radiator filtered already make all intake and the rear fan exhaust.

About the gpu, some people are freaking out way too fast. That gpu is good up to 90-95c, just don't let it run that hot prolonged time. To be safe you can opt to keep it below 80. Thats plain normal for an gpu. My 7950 tops at about 71-72c when heavy gaming. That is with an 1150 core overclock(from 850 stock) with slight voltage raise.

You can use the AI suite to make small adjustments to test them out directly but it is preferable to use the bios. But with minor changes you can just try things out and set it in bios when you found what you need.

Just ask if you need more info or anything(except money







).










Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> I don't think you can run two PSUs, I believe it MUST have signal from the MOBO in order for it to put out power.
> 
> If you find out that it's NOT the PSU that is your issue and it's Incompatible RAM, I would still buy a new PSU. Why take the chance of having a lower end one?
> 
> I always recommend the XFX line of PSUs. They're all at least bronze certified, always have one or more on sale, decently priced, great looking AND they're Seasonic electronics.
> 
> And also I recommend a modular PSU if you don't have one already. They're SO worth the extra money.


You can use dual psu's.
Just use one of those to be able to use them:


XFX are decent for the price indeed.
But I can really advice you to just grab Corsair because of the awesome warranty service.
I don't know how theirs is in your country but I had mine replaced two weeks ago:
Posted it on Monday and had a fresh psu at my door on Friday the same week.


----------



## dallas1990

I have a thermaltake smart m 750w PSU. 80 bronze certified. I'm thinking about getting the evga 1000w platinum certified. But I haven't read much about it. Just haven't had the time.

I don't mind the extra work. As long as it improves my PC that is. My swiftech is a exhaust on top then I have the stock exhaust fan. After I'm done testing my CPU oc. I'll try to bring the number of fans down lol. I keep forgetting to buy aftermarket filters though.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I have a thermaltake smart m 750w PSU. 80 bronze certified. I'm thinking about getting the evga 1000w platinum certified. But I haven't read much about it. Just haven't had the time.
> 
> I don't mind the extra work. As long as it improves my PC that is. My swiftech is a exhaust on top then I have the stock exhaust fan. After I'm done testing my CPU oc. I'll try to bring the number of fans down lol. I keep forgetting to buy aftermarket filters though.


By all means if you have the funds go for the psu. Evga is a solid brand with epic warranty service. And it is Platinum... What do you need to know more?









As your h220 is exhaust already just swap the rear fan... With both the rad and the rear fan being exhaust they pull away air from each other.
Make the rear fan blow fresh air in for the h220. If you can find some filters make the side and rear filtered.


----------



## FatedFrenzy

That's that Y-adapter for the PSU is sweet I had no clue they had that, its simple and makes sense though.

Ok ... Ugh ... I'm totally gonna be "that" guy right now. I've done some pretty heavy research on PSUs in the past and I have conversed with another member on here would is like a PSU aficionado.

Thermaltake is no better than Aerocool. Its a crap shoot. You either get a good one or you get a crap one.

Corsair makes some really nice PSUs but their lower end ones have poor QC (the internals are make by a different company than their higher end ones).

I've was also told about the same for EVGA accept that only their top Escalon was quality as it was made by a different company than the rest.

Me personally, I'd rather go with something I don't have to worry about vs having a great warranty. Honda and Toyota only have a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty and Hyundai and Kia have 10 year 100,000 miles .... Guess which one you have to use more though.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> That's that Y-adapter for the PSU is sweet I had no clue they had that, its simple and makes sense though.
> 
> Ok ... Ugh ... I'm totally gonna be "that" guy right now. I've done some pretty heavy research on PSUs in the past and I have conversed with another member on here would is like a PSU aficionado.
> 
> Thermaltake is no better than Aerocool. Its a crap shoot. You either get a good one or you get a crap one.
> 
> Corsair makes some really nice PSUs but their lower end ones have poor QC (the internals are make by a different company than their higher end ones).
> 
> I've was also told about the same for EVGA accept that only their top Escalon was quality as it was made by a different company than the rest.
> 
> Me personally, I'd rather go with something I don't have to worry about vs having a great warranty. Honda and Toyota only have a 3 year 36,000 mile warranty and Hyundai and Kia have 10 year 100,000 miles .... Guess which one you have to use more though.


That cable is sweet isn't it?
But you can easily make it yourself. Just solder two cables to the correct pins and connect them to turn on the psu. Or you can even connect a cheap as switch to it.
I used such a psu in the store I worked at for a school project.

I feel you.
But IMO Corsair and Evga have the best warranty of all the brands that make computer parts. At least that is in the country I live in.
Just grab either an HX or AX serie Corsair and you can't go wrong.


----------



## dallas1990

Seams like 1,000w PSU is standard now a days lol. I still have about 3 hours till I can go home from work.

Thinking about using both prime95 and Intel burn test when I when I'm doing a oc test. Just as a double check.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> Seams like 1,000w PSU is standard now a days lol. I still have about 3 hours till I can go home from work.
> 
> Thinking about using both prime95 and Intel burn test when I when I'm doing a oc test. Just as a double check.


Lol no it's definitely not standard.
But a mate of mine has an 1250 and it barely cuts it with his setup.









3970k heavy overclocked paired with quad-sli gtx 680's also overclocked to the bone.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> ok guys I tested stock settings still bsod's....
> 
> also the ram is correctly paired... and dual channel is active...




Just to make sure, as your issue sounds exactly like the other one.
Paired sticks go:
A1 + B1
A2 + B2
not side by side.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> Can I overclock my FX-6100 more than 4Ghz on a M5A97 R1.0 ? Or 4Ghz is the limit for this board.
> Now I'm at 4013Mhz and my voltage is set to 1.45.
> 
> Thanks


Many people have pushed the 8 Core FX's to 4.5Ghz-4.6Ghz on the M5A97 Boards so that should be a good target for you to hit with a 6 Core as long as your temps are within limits.

Do you need 1.45v to keep it stable? If so, what is your voltage under load. It could just be that your board has very high vdroop and the load voltage is dropping much lower than 1.45.


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Lol no it's definitely not standard.
> But a mate of mine has an 1250 and it barely cuts it with his setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3970k heavy overclocked paired with quad-sli gtx 680's also overclocked to the bone.


sounds he needs a nuclear reactor to power his rig lmao


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> sounds he needs a nuclear reactor to power his rig lmao


Haha. Thats is only under full load.
Haven't spoke to him in a wile. Last time he had the 3970k at 5.6 for benching.








He also has the complete rig watercooled including the ram, lmao.


----------



## dallas1990

Damn lol and I thought I was over killed lol. 10 fans on full rpm feel like a tornado inmy case lol


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> Damn lol and I thought I was over killed lol. 10 fans on full rpm feel like a tornado inmy case lol


Again. More isn't better. I once also bought a complete set with a new case I bought. All quality fans but the performance was terrible.
Just set it up good and it will perform just good while being pretty silent.

I have my 650d as follows:
front 200mm intake.
top 2x 120mm intake on the h100.
Right side 120mm intake blowing at the backside of the cpu socket and vrm's.
Rear 120mm exhaust.
Extra fan in the rear of the 5.25" bays to direct the air coming from the radiator to the rear exhaust.


----------



## dallas1990

I almost got that case but I got the corsair c70


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Many people have pushed the 8 Core FX's to 4.5Ghz-4.6Ghz on the M5A97 Boards so that should be a good target for you to hit with a 6 Core as long as your temps are within limits.
> 
> Do you need 1.45v to keep it stable? If so, what is your voltage under load. It could just be that your board has very high vdroop and the load voltage is dropping much lower than 1.45.


I will post some pic of my bios when I'm back to my home.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

dupe


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> 
> Just to make sure, as your issue sounds exactly like the other one.
> Paired sticks go:
> A1 + B1
> A2 + B2
> not side by side.
> Many people have pushed the 8 Core FX's to 4.5Ghz-4.6Ghz on the M5A97 Boards so that should be a good target for you to hit with a 6 Core as long as your temps are within limits.
> 
> Do you need 1.45v to keep it stable? If so, what is your voltage under load. It could just be that your board has very high vdroop and the load voltage is dropping much lower than 1.45.


Just out of curiosity, whats the difference between using A2/B2 for two sticks over A1/B1? I get the dual channel thing my question is why do they suggest the 2nd and 4th slot over the 1st and 3rd when using 2 sticks


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I guess because they're checked for first when POSTing? I've wondered myself.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> I almost got that case but I got the corsair c70


Care to post some pictures?








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, whats the difference between using A2/B2 for two sticks over A1/B1? I get the dual channel thing my question is why do they suggest the 2nd and 4th slot over the 1st and 3rd when using 2 sticks


Using a2/b2 or a1/b1 doesn't matter IMO. Some may use the latter because of restriction due to the cpu cooler.
I would say try it out and see what the differences are.









But some boards just have this layout. Mine also does. Channel 1 and 3 or 2 and 4 for dual channel. Other boards use 1/2 or 3/4.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> But some boards just have this layout. Mine also does. Channel 1 and 3 or 2 and 4 for dual channel. Other boards use 1/2 or 3/4.


Yeah, there are tons of boards that use 1+2 3+4. That's why it's important to check. Even if you have Dual Channel Mode set to run and you install your DIMMS in the wrong slot, you'll be stuck with two sticks in Single Channel.

I've never noticed a difference in performance between slots when only running 2 DIMMS. You would think that the closer set would have a fraction of a fraction less latency, lol.


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Never noticed that before, with the higher imc voltage requirement...
> Can hardly believe some ram needs the cpu-nb voltage to be over stock.
> 
> But what you noticed about the timings. If one set is slow you take that settings. Put both sets at the lower settings and it should work.
> If it doesn't I advice you to either take the set back to the store for refund if possible. Or sell both sets and get one dual channel kit of two sticks and use that.
> It really looks like a compatibility problem because both sets work correctly when used apart from each other.
> You can always try to give the ram a small bump in voltage to see if it gets stable.
> 
> Let us know what you achieve.
> Good luck.


seams the imc cant take all 4 slots of ram filled at 1600.... even with the new ram timings....
I set the ram at 1333 and no crashes it seams for 5h....

does anyone have ram slots all 4 filled and with good oc.... at 1600+?


----------



## FatedFrenzy

I've heard of this happening. I was worried about my board taking all 32gb at 1866 but it did.


----------



## dallas1990

heres some pics theres 2 fans on the side window now though.

grrrrr, testing out a 4.6ghz with prime95. and i keep getting "ILLEGAL SUMOUT" error. i bumped the volts 2 times and it hasnt fixed it not sure what to do lol


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> does anyone have ram slots all 4 filled and with good oc.... at 1600+?


I have all four slots populated, 32 GB at 2152 MHz, rather loose timings at 11-12-12-31 but it is stable 24/7. 8350 at 4.6 GHz, FSB overclock at 230 MHz. Asus Sabertooth R2.0.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

So swapping over the PSU seemed to fix everything. I might actually afford to replace it soon. I'm not gonna make the mistake of getting something cheap again, but my wallet isn't too big... Any suggestions to what I should buy?


----------



## thor2002ro

I'm now testing 1600 10-10-10-27 instead of stock 9-9-9-24.... seams ok so far....


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> seams the imc cant take all 4 slots of ram filled at 1600.... even with the new ram timings....
> I set the ram at 1333 and no crashes it seams for 5h....
> 
> does anyone have ram slots all 4 filled and with good oc.... at 1600+?


Nice to see you made some progress.
But as to blame what is the cause is still hard.
Could be the motherboard or the particular cpu.

As you might know overclocking the cpu increases the stress on the IMC.
Were you trying the various ram settings while having the cpu at stock or not?

You do want to overclock the cpu also I guess?
I would first start with clocking your cpu to the desired speed because if you found the fastest working ram settings and you clock the cpu after that you probably will get errors again.
Maybe try overclocking with the FSB instead of the multiplier. This gives more stress on the motherboard compared to the chip....

Go with something like 230mhz to start with. Just try to keep the ht link close to the 2600 stock clock.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> So swapping over the PSU seemed to fix everything. I might actually afford to replace it soon. I'm not gonna make the mistake of getting something cheap again, but my wallet isn't too big... Any suggestions to what I should buy?


I can highly advice you not the go cheap on the psu.
Looking at your system you should be good with an decent 650 watt unit.
If you don't overclock the gpu's you should even be able to cut it with an 550 watt... But it's better to have some breathing room to extend the life of the psu.
Look for a Corsair hx650(OEM: Seasonic), Seasonic G-series 650. If you can spend a bit more money I advice you to grab the Cooler-Master V700(OEM: Seasonic), this is a very good psu for the money.
Or you can always look for one of those second hand with warranty. I had mine HX750 also second hand for 80 euro(105 USD) instead of the 158 USD new price. About 9 months old, this unit has 7 years warranty.


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Nice to see you made some progress.
> But as to blame what is the cause is still hard.
> Could be the motherboard or the particular cpu.
> 
> As you might know overclocking the cpu increases the stress on the IMC.
> Were you trying the various ram settings while having the cpu at stock or not?
> 
> You do want to overclock the cpu also I guess?
> I would first start with clocking your cpu to the desired speed because if you found the fastest working ram settings and you clock the cpu after that you probably will get errors again.
> Maybe try overclocking with the FSB instead of the multiplier. This gives more stress on the motherboard compared to the chip....
> 
> Go with something like 230mhz to start with. Just try to keep the ht link close to the 2600 stock clock.


well I'm at 1600 10-10-10-27 and all looks good 6h... might try to go for 1866 11-11-11-31 since timings seam to have little impact compared to freq

as for cpu max freq is 4.6... I'm already at 1512mv so pretty high... its also at the limit what h100 can take and I am pretty scared of custom loops... might upgrade to h110 through...but it will be a pain to install in haf 932


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> well I'm at 1600 10-10-10-27 and all looks good 6h... might try to go for 1866 11-11-11-31 since timings seam to have little impact compared to freq
> 
> as for cpu max freq is 4.6... I'm already at 1512mv so pretty high... its also at the limit what h100 can take and I am pretty scared of custom loops... might upgrade to h110 through...but it will be a pain to install in haf 932


Sorry to say but that would be a total waste of money.
Just make the jump if you want to upgrade. I haven't made loops myself but if I have the credit it grab it instantly.
Just put together the loop outside the case. Connect it to the psu and run it for a few hours to see if it leaks.
By all means. All in one coolers also do leak sometimes. If you buy quality components and it doesn't leak at the start you will be good.

1866 cl11 is awful. My ram runs at 1866 9-10-9-27.
How is the vDimm and cpu-nb voltage?
For benchmarks higher frequency is better indeed. But for gaming you want lower timings compared to higher frequency...


----------



## thor2002ro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sorry to say but that would be a total waste of money.
> Just make the jump if you want to upgrade. I haven't made loops myself but if I have the credit it grab it instantly.
> Just put together the loop outside the case. Connect it to the psu and run it for a few hours to see if it leaks.
> By all means. All in one coolers also do leak sometimes. If you buy quality components and it doesn't leak at the start you will be good.
> 
> 1866 cl11 is awful. My ram runs at 1866 9-10-9-27.
> How is the vDimm and cpu-nb voltage?
> For benchmarks higher frequency is better indeed. But for gaming you want lower timings compared to higher frequency...


I don't game much... some LOL and BF3... that's about it...
most of the time I work with virtual machines that's why I need this much ram... I'm more interested in programs startup speeds... and to me it seams more freq does the trick...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> I don't game much... some LOL and BF3... that's about it...
> most of the time I work with virtual machines that's why I need this much ram... I'm more interested in programs startup speeds... and to me it seams more freq does the trick...


Oh thats another story. You want max bandwidth then indeed, thus higher frequency.

Voltages seem about right.
But try going the FSB route.

Go in the bios. lower all multi's, set the fsb to around 230-240mhz and play around with the multi's to get about the same clocks as you have now.
Maybe you can even lower the cpu voltage a bit.
To stabilize you can give the NB voltage one tick up. But try without first.


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Nice to see you made some progress.
> But as to blame what is the cause is still hard.
> Could be the motherboard or the particular cpu.
> 
> As you might know overclocking the cpu increases the stress on the IMC.
> Were you trying the various ram settings while having the cpu at stock or not?
> 
> You do want to overclock the cpu also I guess?
> I would first start with clocking your cpu to the desired speed because if you found the fastest working ram settings and you clock the cpu after that you probably will get errors again.
> Maybe try overclocking with the FSB instead of the multiplier. This gives more stress on the motherboard compared to the chip....
> 
> Go with something like 230mhz to start with. Just try to keep the ht link close to the 2600 stock clock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can highly advice you not the go cheap on the psu.
> Looking at your system you should be good with an decent 650 watt unit.
> If you don't overclock the gpu's you should even be able to cut it with an 550 watt... But it's better to have some breathing room to extend the life of the psu.
> Look for a Corsair hx650(OEM: Seasonic), Seasonic G-series 650. If you can spend a bit more money I advice you to grab the Cooler-Master V700(OEM: Seasonic), this is a very good psu for the money.
> Or you can always look for one of those second hand with warranty. I had mine HX750 also second hand for 80 euro(105 USD) instead of the 158 USD new price. About 9 months old, this unit has 7 years warranty.


I agree on the HX750. I have one, and it's great. As of right now you can pick one up at newegg.com for $130.00. Apply the 15% off promo code and you're looking at $110.00 with free shipping. Looks like you also get a $25.00 gift card from Corsair via their rebate. Not sure how you feel about rebates, but a similar deal from the egg is how I was able to afford one! With all included...a great PSU for $85.50!

BTW, glad to hear it was just the PSU, and nothing was damaged!


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus2501*
> 
> I agree on the HX750. I have one, and it's great. As of right now you can pick one up at newegg.com for $130.00. Apply the 15% off promo code and you're looking at $110.00 with free shipping. Looks like you also get a $25.00 gift card from Corsair via their rebate. Not sure how you feel about rebates, but a similar deal from the egg is how I was able to afford one! With all included...a great PSU for $85.50!
> 
> BTW, glad to hear it was just the PSU, and nothing was damaged!


$85.50 (USD)


----------



## FatedFrenzy

The HX750 is a nice PSU. That being said, I would go with the XFX 750 Black Edition. It has the same internals (Seasonic), its the same price, but with a little flashier outside casing. It is full modular as well.

For a little less ($109.99) you can grab the XFX 750 XXX edition. This is Bronze certified as aposed to gold and is semi modular.

OR

If you're looking for even cheaper, the XFX core edition 550. I think it's $80. I also have one of these I'd be willing to get rid of still in the box, just saying. This PSU is bronze but full wired.

These are my recommendations. Again, you can't go wrong with any of these its just a matter of what you need. And the hx750 and 750 Black edition aee the same with different shells.


----------



## AmcieK

Hello.
I try overlock my FX but i have a problem with temperature and voltages .

My settings in bios

http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/13660924/img/OC-/1.jpg

http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13660925/img/OC-/2.jpg

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/13660926/img/OC-/3.jpg

http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/13660927/img/OC-/4.jpg

With this settings temperature is 66C ;/ . With lower voltage proccesor is not stable

http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/13660930/img/OC-/21412.jpg

There graphs from OCCT

http://amciek.picturepush.com/album/326519/p-OC.html#column2::/album/326519/detail/13660921

My thermal paste is be quiet DC 1 .

My spec.
CPU: AMD FX 6300
Mobo: Asus M5A97 EVO R. 2.0
RAM: 2 x 4 Gb Corsair Vegance 1600 mhz CL 9
GPU: XFX HD7850 DD Black Edition
HDD: Seagate Barracuda 7200 200GB
SSD: Plextor 128GB M5S
PSU: Seasonic G550
CASE: Corsair 300r.
FAN: SilentiumPC Fera Pro HE 1224 + Corsair AF 120
Audio. Creative Sound Blaster Audigy + Creative T6100
OS: Windows 7 Ultimate 64 Bit
MOUSE: Logitech G300
Any idea ?
Sorry for my english


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> Hello.
> I try overlock my FX but i have a problem with temperature and voltages .
> Any idea ?
> Sorry for my english


Your CPU Temperature is a little bit high for only running a 6 Core. Try to get better case airflow or put a fan over the Voltage Regulator heatsink. I am not sure what CPU Cooler you are using but if it is an all in one water cooler then you definitely need a fan over the VRM's to bring the CPU temp down.

The main temperature you want to go by for the CPU is Package Temperature. Accoring to HWMonitor you're only hitting 51C during OCCT Stress Testing so you have a lot of headroom to Overclock.

Your english is great


----------



## AmcieK

Cooler > http://chlodzenie.net/reviews/silentiumpc-fera-pro-he1224-test-coolera-cpu/ wiht corsair AF 120 PE. but I wonder about the Prolimatech megahelms or something from corsair hydro series.

Are you sure my temperature is ok ? so why in OCCT and AI suite i have 66 ?

now i have only 11 C ? In ai suite II 31 C

http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/13661947/1024/OC-/4124214.jpg


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> Cooler > http://chlodzenie.net/reviews/silentiumpc-fera-pro-he1224-test-coolera-cpu/ wiht corsair AF 120 PE. but I wonder about the Prolimatech megahelms or something from corsair hydro series.
> 
> Are you sure my temperature is ok ? so why in OCCT and AI suite i have 66 ?
> 
> now i have only 11 C ? In ai suite II 31 C
> 
> http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/13661947/1024/OC-/4124214.jpg


AI Suite and OCCT show Socket Temp which is ok up to 70-72C. It is the Core, also known as Package Temperature that should be under 62C


----------



## swnny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> Just to make sure, as your issue sounds exactly like the other one.
> Paired sticks go:
> A1 + B1
> A2 + B2
> not side by side.


That's something that was bothering me since I got my ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0, why is it recommended to have 2 ram modules in the DIMM_A2 and DIMM_B2, instead of A1 and B1?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swnny*
> 
> That's something that was bothering me since I got my ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0, why is it recommended to have 2 ram modules in the DIMM_A2 and DIMM_B2, instead of A1 and B1?


No idea.
Just use which 2 slots you want. Just stick to the right combo.
IMO it doesn't matter which pair you use.


----------



## dallas1990

well i think prime95 is acting up. i tested a 4.6ghz @ 1.392v on intel burn test. i ran 5 runs on it and its stable (as of the test) temp wise my socket temp went to 59c and my cpu core temp went to 45c.

is intel burn test ok to to replace prime95?


----------



## dallas1990

About to test a 5ghz oc xD 1.452v hope it holds







I might put it to 5.1 GHz if temps look good


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> well i think prime95 is acting up. i tested a 4.6ghz @ 1.392v on intel burn test. i ran 5 runs on it and its stable (as of the test) temp wise my socket temp went to 59c and my cpu core temp went to 45c.
> 
> is intel burn test ok to to replace prime95?


IBT is a pretty decent stress test as well. You will want to do your 5 runs using the Maximum setting though. 5 runs of Standard wont do much.


----------



## dallas1990

i did 5 with very high settings on extreme (right click start) when i got to 4.8 but now im on 5.0ghz still got a bsod about 20 seconds in. i declocked it to 4.9 and going again.

Well socket temp got to hot. So I am going to see if I can get my CPU stock fan mounted on the back of my mobo. Just need double side tape or a way to bolt it with out drilling holes in case


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> I have no experience with that board but as long as your temps are good I think you should be able to push higher.
> What are the full settings? cpu-nb/voltage, ram etc.
> 
> What temps do you get now. Can you read out the motherboard vrm temp?





Spoiler: Bios Picture









And my temp after 30 min. :


my CPU cooler is Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO in push/pull.


----------



## nongameocer

re- AmcieK
I have the same configuration as yourself - processor and mobo.
My current level is 4.7GHz with prime95 stable. Rest of the configuration is: 2x8GHz Vengeance RAM, 7750 gpu, vs550 psu, 212 evo cpu cooler
I have reached higher OC but without thermal stability under prime95

To achieve stability in your case, I recommend:
1. Go to BIOS and reset it to DEFAULT
then make ONLY these changes:
2. Leave your FSB at 200 MHz
3. Set your multiplier to what you desire, for ex. 21,5
4. Set your Ai Overclock Tuner to D.O.C.P.
5. Go to Memory button and select at bottom of the list the long descripted RAM memory configuration, which automatically is shown when you select D.O.C.P.
6. DO NOT change the AUTO settings of the CPU/NB or HT settings - leave them as AUTO
7. Leave the "CPU & NB Voltage" setting as default, which is - "OFFSET" and just below enter an offset value of 0,1400V to 0,1500V (for me 0,1500V works at 4,7GHz, while the system completely freezes if this value is *any higher*), at your lower OC, you may need to enter lower value
8. Do not make any changes from DEFAULT to the settings you show in pictures 1 and especially 2, leave them all alone, don't touch them!
9. Lastly, your BIOS is also out of date, latest available version is 1903, no guarantee it will make any difference stability wise, but update is always recommended

I don't know how effective is your CPU cooler, however from my experience the CPU temperatures of 72-74 degC indicated by the asus AI Suite were stable under prime95 for nearly 1 hour. When trying to reach larger OC, the processor heats so fast and reaches it's terminal temperature causing the whole computer to completely shut down. This in my estimate is the method of AMD CPU protection.

Powodzenia


----------



## dallas1990

so far ran several IBT runs with 20gb of ram. im guessing 10 hours worth. with an average temp of socket 66c and cpu at 58c oh and my volts are 1.536 under stress test. i'll be running it more later tomorrow and post a temp pic as well as cpu-z xD so far im calling is stable. but damn these test take forever lol


----------



## hannse12

so i just got a rig, and its a 8320 in a m5a97, and im using a h40 in push/pull to cool it.

i can get it stable at 4.1 @ stock voltage, but at 4.2 i cant seem to stabilize it







.

i've tried everything the guide tells me, and i seem to get all but the last core stable, it always has a warning, and then after 3 warnings, prime95 shuts it off.

my socket temps are reaching mid to high 70s though, but because of the h40 i do not have room for a fan over the northbridge / VRMs.
the cpu reaches max of 60.

i tried setting LLC to enable, but it boosts my voltage to like 1.53 and the computer just hard locks. Should i try stock clocks and enable LLC?

i mean, all this extra heat and abuse isn't worth the extra 100mhz over 4.1, but i was hoping to push the system to like 4.3-4.5 at least









anyone have any ideas on how to make the system stable?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hannse12*
> 
> so i just got a rig, and its a 8320 in a m5a97, and im using a h40 in push/pull to cool it.
> 
> i can get it stable at 4.1 @ stock voltage, but at 4.2 i cant seem to stabilize it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> i've tried everything the guide tells me, and i seem to get all but the last core stable, it always has a warning, and then after 3 warnings, prime95 shuts it off.
> 
> my socket temps are reaching mid to high 70s though, but because of the h40 i do not have room for a fan over the northbridge / VRMs.
> the cpu reaches max of 60.
> 
> i tried setting LLC to enable, but it boosts my voltage to like 1.53 and the computer just hard locks. Should i try stock clocks and enable LLC?
> 
> i mean, all this extra heat and abuse isn't worth the extra 100mhz over 4.1, but i was hoping to push the system to like 4.3-4.5 at least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyone have any ideas on how to make the system stable?


With that cpu cooler you are not going to reach 4.3-4.5 to be honest. The H40 is too weak.
As you reach high 70s on your socket temp you are already exceeding your max. Try reseating the cooler but I think you need to upgrade to go higher. 72c is the max recommended temp for the socket. You know this as you read the guide thoroughly.

The socket temp is the cpu temp....
Core temp are the cores inside the cpu, these may not exceed 62c.

EDIT:
Just did a short run of smallFFTs for you to compare the temps I have at 4.2(same cpu) with 1.45v with the H100 cooler.


----------



## hannse12

wow, thanks for the quick reply!

yeah, i know the h40 is quite underpowered, but i got it in a bundle consisting of 8gb crucial ballistix ram, a PII 965, a creative soundcard, the m5a97, and the h4 for 120 usd. after that, i had about 1 week to test it, get a 8320, and put it a suitcase to take to uni (im in germany now)

i will probably get a h80 or so, because im also running all of that with a 7950 in a sleeper case (its an older chieftec from the Pentium 4 era, because i really like the idea of a sleeper pc. i plan on modding it soon though, for better airflow.


----------



## dallas1990

If you want to get a 4.3-4.5 GHz oc. I need a better cooler. Maybe a h80 could pull it off but I'm not sure. I use a swiftech h220 and it keeps my temps just under the thermal range. But I'm set up at 5.0ghz on a 8320.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hannse12*
> 
> wow, thanks for the quick reply!
> 
> yeah, i know the h40 is quite underpowered, but i got it in a bundle consisting of 8gb crucial ballistix ram, a PII 965, a creative soundcard, the m5a97, and the h4 for 120 usd. after that, i had about 1 week to test it, get a 8320, and put it a suitcase to take to uni (im in germany now)
> 
> i will probably get a h80 or so, because im also running all of that with a 7950 in a sleeper case (its an older chieftec from the Pentium 4 era, because i really like the idea of a sleeper pc. i plan on modding it soon though, for better airflow.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> If you want to get a 4.3-4.5 GHz oc. I need a better cooler. Maybe a h80 could pull it off but I'm not sure. I use a swiftech h220 and it keeps my temps just under the thermal range. But I'm set up at 5.0ghz on a 8320.


Like he said. If you plan to buy something better get the h220 if you have the credits. Or at least an h100i or h110.
Like I said I have the h100 and mine struggles at around 4.7-4.8. But in my case the motherboard is also *****ing pretty hard.









IMO save the credits and go with the h220. That unit is also good for expanding later on. So you can add another radiator and cool the board and gpu for example.

EDIT:
Sorry for the language.


----------



## hannse12

so you really think its a thermal limit im hittting and at which point the cpu is failing the prime 95 test? i mean socket temps are definitely high, but he cpu is staying under 60. I will mos likely upgrade the cpu cooler, either to a water cooler, or a high end air cooler, and possibly mod my 7950 with the h40 cooler. I am just amazed that a 100mhz difference could be the difference between stock clocks and having to push a whole lot of voltage through!

well, thanks for your help, guess ill just settle for 4.1ghz atm, knowing there is more the squeeze out of the chip down the road.

also, from what i read, the m5a97 has some serious issues with LLC, which to my understanding is used to combat vdrop. could it be that because i have LLC on auto, that the processor just doesn't get enough voltage under load to keep the 4.2ghz clock speed without getting errors in prime95?


----------



## dallas1990

The more you push a CPU (either clock speed or its voltage) it'll generate more heat.

How I saw it that its easier to manage a higher clock speed at stock volts. then let's say a 4.4ghz clocked CPU but at 1.38v. The difference can be a 5* jump with ease.

If your going to buy a new CPU cooler look at the radiator materials. Copper is best which is why I got the swiftech h220. Its a little higher than the others buts its worth it. I think its about $150 range


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hannse12*
> 
> so you really think its a thermal limit im hittting and at which point the cpu is failing the prime 95 test? i mean socket temps are definitely high, but he cpu is staying under 60. I will mos likely upgrade the cpu cooler, either to a water cooler, or a high end air cooler, and possibly mod my 7950 with the h40 cooler. I am just amazed that a 100mhz difference could be the difference between stock clocks and having to push a whole lot of voltage through!
> 
> well, thanks for your help, guess ill just settle for 4.1ghz atm, knowing there is more the squeeze out of the chip down the road.
> 
> also, from what i read, the m5a97 has some serious issues with LLC, which to my understanding is used to combat vdrop. could it be that because i have LLC on auto, that the processor just doesn't get enough voltage under load to keep the 4.2ghz clock speed without getting errors in prime95?


If you are hitting mid 70's on the Socket Temp, then it will cause the CPU to throttle. That will make the voltages fluctuate like crazy and usually throws an error (generally on the weakest core that is most voltage sensitive).

There is issues with LLC on the M5A97 Boards. Some work with Auto, some work with Enabled, it's really hit or miss on what will actually work. That's something you should definitely play around with as each board seems to be different.

On that board you can generally get a stable 4.4-4.6Ghz Overclock. So take that into consideration when looking at your cooling. On average I have been able to get 8150's and 8350's into the 4.6Ghz range on a $30 air cooler with ambient temps of 22c-24c. There isn't much difference between 8X20's and 8X50's until you get into the 4.8Ghz range so it should hold true for your CPU as well.

You might even be able to pull it off with that H40 after you mod your case for better airflow as it's suppose to be within 4-5C of the Hyper 212 Evo, but with the H40 in push/pull it might be exactly the same anyways. Just make sure to use high pressure fans on the H40 or it will work like garbage.

Another thing you can play around with is to take the back panel off your case and put a fan blowing on the back of the socket. Some have seen a 10-15C drop in Socket temp and ~4C drop in Package temp. If it works good for you, that'd be a great first Mod.


----------



## link1393

What program can I use to read the temperature of the VRM ?

Thanks

- Sam


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hannse12*
> 
> so you really think its a thermal limit im hittting and at which point the cpu is failing the prime 95 test? i mean socket temps are definitely high, but he cpu is staying under 60. I will mos likely upgrade the cpu cooler, either to a water cooler, or a high end air cooler, and possibly mod my 7950 with the h40 cooler. I am just amazed that a 100mhz difference could be the difference between stock clocks and having to push a whole lot of voltage through!
> 
> well, thanks for your help, guess ill just settle for 4.1ghz atm, knowing there is more the squeeze out of the chip down the road.
> 
> also, from what i read, the m5a97 has some serious issues with LLC, which to my understanding is used to combat vdrop. could it be that because i have LLC on auto, that the processor just doesn't get enough voltage under load to keep the 4.2ghz clock speed without getting errors in prime95?


Note that the stock clocks of the 8320 is 3.5ghz, not 4.0. When you use the boost clock your voltage is upped automatically to 1.4-1.42v. So you are really using an 600mhz overclock already when you clock it at 4.1ghz.

And yeah your problem is probably thermal related.

But don't confuse things. The socket temp you are telling about is in fact the cpu-die temp. And the temp you say that stays under 60c is in fact the cpu cores temp, which should stay below 62c.
When either the core or the socket temp exceeds their max safe temp the chip will throttle, thus lower voltage or frequency to stay within the safe temp. range.
So no, I don't think your problem has to do with the LLC settings on your board. Like someone else posted: use either auto or enabled and see what works best for you. But first, upgrade that cooler.

If you plan to go high end air, which I don't advice to do, grab one of the dual tower ones. Where you can mount three fans on it.
But preferably grab the h220 if you have the credits. The h100/h100i will let you clock the cpu to about 4.6 or higher, depending on the particular chip(silicon lottery), motherboard and ambient temps.

Note that this chip will get quiet a big increase in power consumption if you clock it higher then 4.6.

Take all that in note and choose what you want to acquire and if the costs of the cooler and increased power consumption are worth it to you.

If you want more info just ask.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> If you want to get a 4.3-4.5 GHz oc. I need a better cooler. Maybe a h80 could pull it off but I'm not sure. I use a swiftech h220 and it keeps my temps just under the thermal range. But I'm set up at 5.0ghz on a 8320.


What volts


----------



## dallas1990

Durvelle27 my volts are at 1.524 to get a 5.0ghz oc. but im pushing my temps on the high side. i might be able to do more but i need a better cooler. maybe after i get a new case and set it up with custom water cooling


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> Durvelle27 my volts are at 1.524 to get a 5.0ghz oc. but im pushing my temps on the high side. i might be able to do more but i need a better cooler. maybe after i get a new case and set it up with custom water cooling


man i need 1.55v just for 4.8GHz


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thor2002ro*
> 
> seams the imc cant take all 4 slots of ram filled at 1600.... even with the new ram timings....
> I set the ram at 1333 and no crashes it seams for 5h....
> 
> does anyone have ram slots all 4 filled and with good oc.... at 1600+?


Its the stress on the imc, even if you use a brand new set of 4 sticks as soon as you start to overclock your cpu your putting a strain on the imc, ie. if your memory is rated for 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 that will be intels xmp setting so with an amd chip you have to manually set the timings in bios for the 1600mhz 9-9-9-24, with all 4 slots populated the imc wont be able to handle the 4 slots at 1600mhz 9-9-9-24, try tighter timings at 1333mhz or get 2x16gb sticks for 32gb instead of 4x8gb, anything over 32gb would be overkill in an amd rig in my opinion anyway


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> man i need 1.55v just for 4.8GHz


What coolers are you using? Ive got a thermalright sb-e extreme with 3x ty-143 fans its noisy but i hit 49c max at 4.8ghz core temp with p95, 7c better than the h100i and £40 cheaper when i bought it even with the extra ty-143 fan


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> What coolers are you using? Ive got a thermalright sb-e extreme with 3x ty-143 fans its noisy but i hit 49c max at 4.8ghz core temp with p95, 7c better than the h100i and £40 cheaper when i bought it even with the extra ty-143 fan


I have a custom Loop with 2x 240mm Radiators


----------



## dallas1990

im using a swiftech h220 with just the stock fans. would done push/pull but not enough room. also i have the stock cooler fan taped on the back side of my socket. my temps at idle are cpu itself at a chilly 25*c-27*c and my socket at idle is 36*c.

i used IBT with 20gbs of ram but my socket was at 70* and my cpu was at 59*-60* average.

i bet i can push it more but i need to work on other things also im upgrading my rig. getting a silverstone tj07


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> im using a swiftech h220 with just the stock fans. would done push/pull but not enough room. also i have the stock cooler fan taped on the back side of my socket. my temps at idle are cpu itself at a chilly 25*c-27*c and my socket at idle is 36*c.
> 
> i used IBT with 20gbs of ram but my socket was at 70* and my cpu was at 59*-60* average.
> 
> i bet i can push it more but i need to work on other things also im upgrading my rig. getting a silverstone tj07


Mount the rad. externally.
Problem solved


----------



## madmanmarz

Just got an 8320 and I'm having all types of trouble getting anything decent out of it. It seems to run hot no matter what. I have tried playing with pretty much everything now (high/low NB, High/low LLC, playing with all of the voltages, lowering ram speed, voltage, htt, nb, etc out of the equation but no matter what i do the temps seem way too high for my cooling setup (remounted the water block twice to be sure), and core 8 fails right away.

aghhhhh

Edit: I seem to hit a wall after 4.5 Ghz. Currently my best settings are as follows
225 x 20
1.45v (might be able to go a tad lower, we'll see)
2475 htt/nb
1500 Ram 1.675v 7-8-7 1t (lowering voltage, loosening timings/speed lowered temps a lot but did not affect stability)
llc is at 75%, regular for nb, & voltage stays about the same from idle to load
130%
120%
all the voltages are bumped a hair and nb/vddc bumped to 1.3, 1.55
I turned on ce1/coolnquiet and hpc mode

Anyway like i said anything after 4.5 fails core 8 and sometimes 6 no matter what I try, if I raise vcore temps soar. I am on a good custom water cooling setup and previously had my 1090t up to 4.2ish so I don't think it's the board holding me back that much.

I thought I saw someone mentioning some kind of ram timings that could help stability if you have a weak core. Any suggestions?


----------



## dallas1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Just got an 8320 and I'm having all types of trouble getting anything decent out of it. It seems to run hot no matter what. I have tried playing with pretty much everything now (high/low NB, High/low LLC, playing with all of the voltages, lowering ram speed, voltage, htt, nb, etc out of the equation but no matter what i do the temps seem way too high for my cooling setup (remounted the water block twice to be sure), and core 8 fails right away.
> 
> aghhhhh
> 
> Edit: I seem to hit a wall after 4.5 Ghz. Currently my best settings are as follows
> 225 x 20
> 1.45v (might be able to go a tad lower, we'll see)
> 2475 htt/nb
> 1500 Ram 1.675v 7-8-7 1t (lowering voltage, loosening timings/speed lowered temps a lot but did not affect stability)
> llc is at 75%, regular for nb, & voltage stays about the same from idle to load
> 130%
> 120%
> all the voltages are bumped a hair and nb/vddc bumped to 1.3, 1.55
> I turned on ce1/coolnquiet and hpc mode
> 
> Anyway like i said anything after 4.5 fails core 8 and sometimes 6 no matter what I try, if I raise vcore temps soar. I am on a good custom water cooling setup and previously had my 1090t up to 4.2ish so I don't think it's the board holding me back that much.
> 
> I thought I saw someone mentioning some kind of ram timings that could help stability if you have a weak core. Any suggestions?


try adjusting the multiplier instead of the CPU bus. I found it much easier. And that 120% switch it to 130%. Should be in your "digi+" menu. When I stressed tested my CPU my ram is 1866 speed so I bumped it to 1600. Not sure what it did exactly but it worked.


----------



## nX3NTY

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just got an 8320 and I'm having all types of trouble getting anything decent out of it. It seems to run hot no matter what. I have tried playing with pretty much everything now (high/low NB, High/low LLC, playing with all of the voltages, lowering ram speed, voltage, htt, nb, etc out of the equation but no matter what i do the temps seem way too high for my cooling setup (remounted the water block twice to be sure), and core 8 fails right away.
> 
> aghhhhh
> 
> Edit: I seem to hit a wall after 4.5 Ghz. Currently my best settings are as follows
> 225 x 20
> 1.45v (might be able to go a tad lower, we'll see)
> 2475 htt/nb
> 1500 Ram 1.675v 7-8-7 1t (lowering voltage, loosening timings/speed lowered temps a lot but did not affect stability)
> llc is at 75%, regular for nb, & voltage stays about the same from idle to load
> 130%
> 120%
> all the voltages are bumped a hair and nb/vddc bumped to 1.3, 1.55
> I turned on ce1/coolnquiet and hpc mode
> 
> Anyway like i said anything after 4.5 fails core 8 and sometimes 6 no matter what I try, if I raise vcore temps soar. I am on a good custom water cooling setup and previously had my 1090t up to 4.2ish so I don't think it's the board holding me back that much.
> 
> I thought I saw someone mentioning some kind of ram timings that could help stability if you have a weak core. Any suggestions?


Hey that is EXACTLY what I experiencing. It seems like both two cores always failing for some reason, and Sabertooth unable to lock both crappy cores too, which really disappoints me. My guess is we have two dud cores which needs crazy amounts of volts to get those two up to other speed.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dallas1990*
> 
> try adjusting the multiplier instead of the CPU bus. I found it much easier. And that 120% switch it to 130%. Should be in your "digi+" menu. When I stressed tested my CPU my ram is 1866 speed so I bumped it to 1600. Not sure what it did exactly but it worked.


Yeah I've gone up to 140/130% no change. I tried bumping down the ram also and it doesn't seem to be the issue either. I am currently just bumping all the other NB/HT voltages and that hasn't helped so I'm just gonna up vcore till it passes unless it gets ridiculous in which case I'll bump down and maybe try overclocking with turbo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nX3NTY*
> 
> Hey that is EXACTLY what I experiencing. It seems like both two cores always failing for some reason, and Sabertooth unable to lock both crappy cores too, which really disappoints me. My guess is we have two dud cores which needs crazy amounts of volts to get those two up to other speed.


Yeah I mean it's always a risk you take when you don't buy the fastest chip they got. I guess I got lucky on my last one but I've been here before.


----------



## dallas1990

I got the 8320 only cause I didn't see much of a difference between the 8320 and 8350. But I got a lucky CPU I guess.


----------



## hannse12

oh, from what im reading, could my 1600mhz ram be an issue too? im runnning all 4 slots, with 4gb in each.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Just got an 8320 and I'm having all types of trouble getting anything decent out of it. It seems to run hot no matter what. I have tried playing with pretty much everything now (high/low NB, High/low LLC, playing with all of the voltages, lowering ram speed, voltage, htt, nb, etc out of the equation but no matter what i do the temps seem way too high for my cooling setup (remounted the water block twice to be sure), and core 8 fails right away.
> 
> aghhhhh
> 
> Edit: I seem to hit a wall after 4.5 Ghz. Currently my best settings are as follows
> 225 x 20
> 1.45v (might be able to go a tad lower, we'll see)
> 2475 htt/nb
> 1500 Ram 1.675v 7-8-7 1t (lowering voltage, loosening timings/speed lowered temps a lot but did not affect stability)
> llc is at 75%, regular for nb, & voltage stays about the same from idle to load
> 130%
> 120%
> all the voltages are bumped a hair and nb/vddc bumped to 1.3, 1.55
> I turned on ce1/coolnquiet and hpc mode
> 
> 
> Anyway like i said anything after 4.5 fails core 8 and sometimes 6 no matter what I try, if I raise vcore temps soar. I am on a good custom water cooling setup and previously had my 1090t up to 4.2ish so I don't think it's the board holding me back that much.
> 
> I thought I saw someone mentioning some kind of ram timings that could help stability if you have a weak core. Any suggestions?


Can you give more info.
What ram are you running? How much?

You say you have custom cooling. What exactly is in the loop?
How are your temps now?

You know cpu's aren't guaranteed to run much higher then the stock speeds. It's just a bonus if it clocks nice.
4.5ghz is already a full ghz overclock over stock so you may not complain really









I also run 1.45v for 4.5 so you should be about right with that.
Then again I have the vDroop to about 1.42v.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hannse12*
> 
> oh, from what im reading, could my 1600mhz ram be an issue too? im runnning all 4 slots, with 4gb in each.


Could be.
If you are experiencing problems try the clock with two sticks of ram installed...
I always go with 2 sticks if I can. 4 just gives big stress on the IMC if you overclock.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can you give more info.
> What ram are you running? How much?
> 
> You say you have custom cooling. What exactly is in the loop?
> How are your temps now?
> 
> You know cpu's aren't guaranteed to run much higher then the stock speeds. It's just a bonus if it clocks nice.
> 4.5ghz is already a full ghz overclock over stock so you may not complain really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I also run 1.45v for 4.5 so you should be about right with that.
> Then again I have the vDroop to about 1.42v.
> Could be.
> If you are experiencing problems try the clock with two sticks of ram installed...
> I always go with 2 sticks if I can. 4 just gives big stress on the IMC if you overclock.


Enzotech CPU block, I think a Swiftech GPU block, a couple of fat 120mm radiators (1 with reservoir) sandwiched by fans, mounted outside of the case, and a $50 aquarium pump. GPU is 6850 @ 1.35v overclocked to 1050/1150. Stays around 40c idle, 55 load. I have used this setup on my previous Thuban OC (both a 1055 and later a 1090 and I believe even an old Athlon chip and all were pushed close to their limits, which has not been the case thus far with this Vishera.

Somehow I feel like 4.2 on Thuban is a greater achievement than 4.5 on Vishera; almost makes me want to return it.

Temps are 20 idle but I understand that they are reported inaccurately. Temps go up to about 55c and spike toward 60 here and there in prime.

I have 2x4GB sticks that have been perfectly stable up until now. Been using the same settings and have tried underclocked as well. Same goes for htt/nb, etc. Cores 6 and 8 keep failing.

Also want to note that the cores are underclocking and I have all that power saving stuff disabled, state set to high performance, core parking disabled, etc.

I'm currently trying 225x20, 1.475vcore, all the other voltages bumped up (hasn't made a different one way or the other), 2250 NB/HT, 1500 ram @ 1.6v w/ loose timings. Temps stay around 50c but peaked to 60c in the beginning of the test which makes me scared to bump up the voltages any more.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Enzotech CPU block, I think a Swiftech GPU block, a couple of fat 120mm radiators (1 with reservoir) sandwiched by fans, mounted outside of the case, and a $50 aquarium pump. GPU is 6850 @ 1.35v overclocked to 1050/1150. Stays around 40c idle, 55 load. I have used this setup on my previous Thuban OC (both a 1055 and later a 1090 and I believe even an old Athlon chip and all were pushed close to their limits, which has not been the case thus far with this Vishera.
> 
> Somehow I feel like 4.2 on Thuban is a greater achievement than 4.5 on Vishera; almost makes me want to return it.
> 
> Temps are 20 idle but I understand that they are reported inaccurately. Temps go up to about 55c and spike toward 60 here and there in prime.
> 
> I have 2x4GB sticks that have been perfectly stable up until now. Been using the same settings and have tried underclocked as well. Same goes for htt/nb, etc. Cores 6 and 8 keep failing.
> 
> Also want to note that the cores are underclocking and I have all that power saving stuff disabled, state set to high performance, core parking disabled, etc.
> 
> I'm currently trying 225x20, 1.475vcore, all the other voltages bumped up (hasn't made a different one way or the other), 2250 NB/HT, 1500 ram @ 1.6v w/ loose timings. Temps stay around 50c but peaked to 60c in the beginning of the test which makes me scared to bump up the voltages any more.


A couple of fat 120 rads. Is that 2 radiators?
If so, I really think your blame is cooling wise. To be honest I think two 120mm rads won't be enough for a loop with the 8320 and the gpu which is clocked pretty high on the voltage.

These Vishera's pump out allot of heat. I have the h100 and it struggles with 1.47v.
Sure If you want to you can return it but don't count on it you will clock much higher with another one.

Also I don't know how that aquarium pump performs but maybe it isn't cutting it.

Like some other guys suggested:
Clock the fsb at 200 // multi to get 4.5 @ 1.45v and cpu-nb at 1.25-1.30v
nb at 2200 ht at 2600
ram at 1600 1.5v

Try how that rolls and what temps you get. If you get close to the 60c max your cooling isn't enough. 62c is max for the cores and 72c is max for the socket, but you probably knew that already.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.


----------



## hannse12

hmm, maybe ill drop the ram down to 1600mhz, might also get a mini fan for chipset and vrm


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Enzotech CPU block, I think a Swiftech GPU block, a couple of fat 120mm radiators (1 with reservoir) sandwiched by fans, mounted outside of the case, and a $50 aquarium pump. GPU is 6850 @ 1.35v overclocked to 1050/1150. Stays around 40c idle, 55 load. I have used this setup on my previous Thuban OC (both a 1055 and later a 1090 and I believe even an old Athlon chip and all were pushed close to their limits, which has not been the case thus far with this Vishera.
> 
> Somehow I feel like 4.2 on Thuban is a greater achievement than 4.5 on Vishera; almost makes me want to return it.
> 
> Temps are 20 idle but I understand that they are reported inaccurately. Temps go up to about 55c and spike toward 60 here and there in prime.
> 
> I have 2x4GB sticks that have been perfectly stable up until now. Been using the same settings and have tried underclocked as well. Same goes for htt/nb, etc. Cores 6 and 8 keep failing.
> 
> Also want to note that the cores are underclocking and I have all that power saving stuff disabled, state set to high performance, core parking disabled, etc.
> 
> I'm currently trying 225x20, 1.475vcore, all the other voltages bumped up (hasn't made a different one way or the other), 2250 NB/HT, 1500 ram @ 1.6v w/ loose timings. Temps stay around 50c but peaked to 60c in the beginning of the test which makes me scared to bump up the voltages any more.


Are you using the M5A97 motherboard? I would recommend switching to a Sabertooth or CHV-Z if you want to get the full potential out of your watercooling on that FX 8320.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Enzotech CPU block, I think a Swiftech GPU block, a couple of fat 120mm radiators (1 with reservoir) sandwiched by fans, mounted outside of the case, and a $50 aquarium pump. GPU is 6850 @ 1.35v overclocked to 1050/1150. Stays around 40c idle, 55 load. I have used this setup on my previous Thuban OC (both a 1055 and later a 1090 and I believe even an old Athlon chip and all were pushed close to their limits, which has not been the case thus far with this Vishera.
> 
> Somehow I feel like 4.2 on Thuban is a greater achievement than 4.5 on Vishera; almost makes me want to return it.
> 
> Temps are 20 idle but I understand that they are reported inaccurately. Temps go up to about 55c and spike toward 60 here and there in prime.
> 
> I have 2x4GB sticks that have been perfectly stable up until now. Been using the same settings and have tried underclocked as well. Same goes for htt/nb, etc. Cores 6 and 8 keep failing.
> 
> Also want to note that the cores are underclocking and I have all that power saving stuff disabled, state set to high performance, core parking disabled, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm currently trying 225x20, 1.475vcore, all the other voltages bumped up (hasn't made a different one way or the other), 2250 NB/HT, 1500 ram @ 1.6v w/ loose timings. Temps stay around 50c but peaked to 60c in the beginning of the test which makes me scared to bump up the voltages any more.


Just did a quick test for you to show you my temps on the h100.
This was done on an 4.4 clock with 1600 ram(1.5v) and nb and ht at stock. Cpu voltage was set to 1.45v in the bios, stays around 1.425v due to vDroop.

Idle temps(off as usual):


And load after 8 runs of IBT avx on high:


----------



## hannse12

whats going to be more beneficial across the board: 16gb of 1333mhz ram or 8 @ 16000mhz


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hannse12*
> 
> whats going to be more beneficial across the board: 16gb of 1333mhz ram or 8 @ 16000mhz


Depending on what you use it for most.
If I were to buy something and had to choose between that I would go wit the faster one. As 8gb is enough for most things I do these days.


----------



## madmanmarz

Man nothing seems to work. I am trying 200 x whatever for 4500mhz, 1.475v, dram @ 1333, 1.5v, 2200/2600, 1.3v. Computer locked up after a few minutes. Seems I was closer before.

I honestly don't think it's the cooling unless overclocking this chip puts out that much more heat than anything else before it. This cooling setup has worked better by far than anything else I've used before including an ultra120 extreme push/pull.

My temps at 1.4-1.475 are good but above that they start to soar. Also strangely enough raising the dram voltage seems to add a ton of heat.

Right now as I'm stressing using prime95 blend, temps hit 60c (core) right off the bat and then drop to 50c after a few minutes and seem to stay around there.

I CAN'T CRACK THIS NUT RARRGGHHH!!!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Man nothing seems to work. I am trying 200 x whatever for 4500mhz, 1.475v, dram @ 1333, 1.5v, 2200/2600, 1.3v. Computer locked up after a few minutes. Seems I was closer before.
> 
> I honestly don't think it's the cooling unless overclocking this chip puts out that much more heat than anything else before it. This cooling setup has worked better by far than anything else I've used before including an ultra120 extreme push/pull.
> 
> My temps at 1.4-1.475 are good but above that they start to soar. Also strangely enough raising the dram voltage seems to add a ton of heat.
> 
> Right now as I'm stressing using prime95 blend, temps hit 60c (core) right off the bat and then drop to 50c after a few minutes and seem to stay around there.
> 
> I CAN'T CRACK THIS NUT RARRGGHHH!!!


If the temp stays at 50c for the cores, up the voltage.








What are the other temps? Socket, motherboard vrm?

What is the actual voltage being used? What does hwinfo/hwmonitor display?

And yes, it is known that upping the ramm voltage adds quiet allot of heat.

I am curious. How did you come to the 4.5 overclock?
Did you go there from stock of did you did it in steps like the guide advices.

EDIT:
You said you run blend and the temps immediately jump to 60c on the core.... I just fired up blend and my core temp was about 30c after 1 minute, socket temp was 38c.

By comparing that your cooling isn't cutting it. Or the block isn't seated correctly, have you tried re-seating it?


----------



## madmanmarz

I just had dejavu. I remembered I was having trouble overclocking with this board previously and it was due to throttling from the VRMs getting hot. Also sometimes the LLC options don't work as they should. I Just know I was at 1.5v and 4200 mhz and it was throttling like crazy, temps were about 49c on the core after a few minutes of prime blend and 69 on the socket. Seems it's the first 30 seconds or so that spike the temps and then it settles afterward.

Anyway I am going to ease up on my vcore and anything that would raise temps on the VRM and go from there. BTW been using open hardware monitor and cpu-z to watch things.

Edit: Making progress. I put all my fans on high, eased up on all the vrm/llc stuff and temps are a lot better. Currently testing 1.44v/4500mhz with no throttling. Going to see how high I can go and then step it back a couple notches.

Edit 2: Well that helped with the throttling but hasn't helped be get any higher. I would love to add another radiator and try to find a VRM block that would work but I honestly now think that I did not get my hands on a great CPU as it locks up right away at 4.75 no matter what (6/8 fail immediately).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I just had dejavu. I remembered I was having trouble overclocking with this board previously and it was due to throttling from the VRMs getting hot. Also sometimes the LLC options don't work as they should. I Just know I was at 1.5v and 4200 mhz and it was throttling like crazy, temps were about 49c on the core after a few minutes of prime blend and 69 on the socket. Seems it's the first 30 seconds or so that spike the temps and then it settles afterward.
> 
> Anyway I am going to ease up on my vcore and anything that would raise temps on the VRM and go from there. BTW been using open hardware monitor and cpu-z to watch things.
> 
> Edit: Making progress. I put all my fans on high, eased up on all the vrm/llc stuff and temps are a lot better. Currently testing 1.44v/4500mhz with no throttling. Going to see how high I can go and then step it back a couple notches.
> 
> Edit 2: Well that helped with the throttling but hasn't helped be get any higher. I would love to add another radiator and try to find a VRM block that would work but I honestly now think that I did not get my hands on a great CPU as it locks up right away at 4.75 no matter what (6/8 fail immediately).


What are the temps of the vrm's?
I'm also held back by the board. The cpu can go way higher I think.

Upping the voltage beyond 1.44v gives way more stress on the vrm's. You can try put the stock amd fan over the vrm's...

Some guy showed me a picture which I posted on the forum, look at the post:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1048912/official-gigabyte-ga-990xa-970a-series-owners-club-help-thread-fx-8350-support-added/1970#post_20657539


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> .
> 
> Edit 2: Well that helped with the throttling but hasn't helped be get any higher. I would love to add another radiator and try to find a VRM block that would work but I honestly now think that I did not get my hands on a great CPU as it locks up right away at 4.75 no matter what (6/8 fail immediately).


Seriously though. If you want to hit those numbers, you'll need a better board. Did you read my other reply?


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What are the temps of the vrm's?
> I'm also held back by the board. The cpu can go way higher I think.
> 
> Upping the voltage beyond 1.44v gives way more stress on the vrm's. You can try put the stock amd fan over the vrm's...
> 
> Some guy showed me a picture which I posted on the forum, look at the post:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1048912/official-gigabyte-ga-990xa-970a-series-owners-club-help-thread-fx-8350-support-added/1970#post_20657539


Yeah I might do something like that but I do have a side fan half blowing onto the VRMs during testing. I keep getting errors at 4.4 and 4.5 and this Vishera is basically getting into the territory that my Thuban ran at!! Unacceptable!!


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Seriously though. If you want to hit those numbers, you'll need a better board. Did you read my other reply?


I'm not going to spend $200 for a few extra mhz. I have always done well with mid range boards with decent VRM and the fact that the same cores keep failing so easy makes me think it's the CPU. I'm sure a nice board would help but I still think that this particular CPU is not too great.

I'm going to read through as much of this thread as I can and see if I missed anything that could help.

I've been overclocking since the Athlon days (and always on a budget) and I've always been satisfied that I got my CPU pretty close to it's limits. This board is 6+2, I have good water cooling and case cooling and previously had excellent results on a 1090T. I understand that FX places even more stress on the VRM but to not even get 4.4 stable easily does not make sense to me unless it's the CPU.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I'm not going to spend $200 for a few extra mhz. I have always done well with mid range boards with decent VRM and the fact that the same cores keep failing so easy makes me think it's the CPU. I'm sure a nice board would help but I still think that this particular CPU is not too great.
> 
> I'm going to read through as much of this thread as I can and see if I missed anything that could help.
> 
> I've been overclocking since the Athlon days (and always on a budget) and I've always been satisfied that I got my CPU pretty close to it's limits. This board is 6+2, I have good water cooling and case cooling and previously had excellent results on a 1090T. I understand that FX places even more stress on the VRM but to not even get 4.4 stable easily does not make sense to me unless it's the CPU.


Custom or AIO cooling

Please list all settings in BIOs that your using when OCing so i could further assist you and make sure any power saving feature are disabled


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I'm not going to spend $200 for a few extra mhz. I have always done well with mid range boards with decent VRM and the fact that the same cores keep failing so easy makes me think it's the CPU. I'm sure a nice board would help but I still think that this particular CPU is not too great.
> 
> I'm going to read through as much of this thread as I can and see if I missed anything that could help.
> 
> I've been overclocking since the Athlon days (and always on a budget) and I've always been satisfied that I got my CPU pretty close to it's limits. This board is 6+2, I have good water cooling and case cooling and previously had excellent results on a 1090T. I understand that FX places even more stress on the VRM but to not even get 4.4 stable easily does not make sense to me unless it's the CPU.


If you're not even getting 4.4Ghz stable then that's an issue. I was more referring to this
Quote:


> I did not get my hands on a great CPU as it locks up right away at 4.75 no matter what (6/8 fail immediately).


If you followed the guide by starting with your stock voltage with Turbo disabled and working your way up and you still have issues at 4.4Ghz then you should check out this other guide I made as it may very well be the CPU.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1334836/amd-piledriver-individual-core-module-failure-discussion-thread-stability-issues-stock-and-overclocked

If you can narrow it down to the specific faulty module by disabling all others (except Module 1 which you can't disable). Then stress it to rule out power delivery issues and temperatures and if it still fails then it's a defective Module.
I was able to RMA mine through AMD "because it would cause BSOD at stock settings







)


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Custom or AIO cooling
> 
> Please list all settings in BIOs that your using when OCing so i could further assist you and make sure any power saving feature are disabled


I am on a custom loop. I think I've tried every bios setting one way or another but I started by following the guide. Off the top of my head right now I'm testing 200x21 (4200) @ 1.4v. 45c load, 59c socket. All power saving features are disabled. 140/130%. LLC is set to High/Regular. I bumped up vddc and nb voltages as well.

I noticed you're at 4.8 with 1.55v on the same board. Mind posting a screen of your bios settings? Did you run into any throttling issues? I'd post mine but I'm trying so many different settings and rebooting a lot because I haven't really found anything that works.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> If you're not even getting 4.4Ghz stable then that's an issue. I was more referring to this
> If you followed the guide by starting with your stock voltage with Turbo disabled and working your way up and you still have issues at 4.4Ghz then you should check out this other guide I made as it may very well be the CPU.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1334836/amd-piledriver-individual-core-module-failure-discussion-thread-stability-issues-stock-and-overclocked
> 
> If you can narrow it down to the specific faulty module by disabling all others (except Module 1 which you can't disable). Then stress it to rule out power delivery issues and temperatures and if it still fails then it's a defective Module.
> I was able to RMA mine through AMD "because it would cause BSOD at stock settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Okay as soon as this passes a reasonable amount of time I will try that and then I will try disabling it and see how high it'll go.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I am on a custom loop. I think I've tried every bios setting one way or another but I started by following the guide. Off the top of my head right now I'm testing 200x21 (4200) @ 1.4v. 45c load, 59c socket. All power saving features are disabled. 140/130%. LLC is set to High/Regular. I bumped up vddc and nb voltages as well.
> 
> I noticed you're at 4.8 with 1.55v on the same board. Mind posting a screen of your bios settings? Did you run into any throttling issues? I'd post mine but I'm trying so many different settings and rebooting a lot because I haven't really found anything that works.


sorry I can not as I'm waiting on a new CPU to arrive so its down and no throttling issues


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> sorry I can not as I'm waiting on a new CPU to arrive so its down and no throttling issues


What happened with the old one?

Yeah so 4.3 passed for about 45 mins @ 1.4v, tried 4.4 & failed immediately. Bumped vcore to 1.425 and was testing fine for 15 minutes and then all the cores went down to like 1500mhz *** Running it again


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> What happened with the old one?
> 
> Yeah so 4.3 passed for about 45 mins @ 1.4v and 4.4 failed immediately. Bumped vcore to 1.425 and was testing fine for 15 minutes and then all the cores went down to like 1500mhz ***


Getting a 8350 to push for 5GHz

I think your chip is throttling from temps


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Had to quote myself since no one commented on it but I believe I found the solution to my problem. My cpu wouldn't throttle to 0% usage every few second which left my oc useless when it came to requiring my system to process at full load. I did the research but found nothing on throttling until I looked deeper and they called it CPU "core parking" I found a fix through the registry that one website "recommended" (they actually were against it but gave me the info to change it anyway). I later found there is programs that can do the same thing "safely" I used _process lasso_ that I actually already installed a while ago. It was worth the risk for me as I went from 100% to 0% every handful of seconds to it only throttling for one second in 15 minutes. I regained 8 kppd in folding points that I had lost while folding all 8 cores on my fx-8120. This makes what I paid for the bulldozer cpu almost worth it in performance. This may not work for everyone and again not many sites or forums condone it so do your research if find an interest in it. If anyone has any questions of what I know or where you can find the info on this feel free to ask me and I will try to answer to the best of my ability.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you check again there are two hotfix patches released by windows that stops the cores parking, the links have been posted in here too
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thanks but I installed those microsoft patches a long while ago. I saw those links and knew right what they were because I kept a copy of those updates in my backup folder in case I needed them again with a Windows reinstall. What I found in my research was something different. I forgot to mention that the ms patches were already installed. Those helped the performance of my pc at that time but did not completely solve my issues. With the patches my pc throttled 1 out of 5 seconds this was better at that time but because of this throttling the most ppd I could get was an average of 15k with all 8 cores. With 7 cores I was able to fold with an avg of 18kppd. Between a registry hack for core parking and also have a software tool to do it automatically I now fold all 8 cores at 21k to 25kppd on my fx-8120 alone. This was the biggest improvement in ppd I ever had with this bulldozer cpu. Now if I have any throttling at all it is usually a second out of every 15 minutes. Though again every site and every program that fixed this issue gave a lot of big warnings before I continued it. I backed everything up as usual and took the chance and now I am very satisfied with the outcome. The advice I would give would be yours that says only to install the ms patches and go no further unless your willing to take the big risk in the direction I took. If the bulldozer is not throttling than you should have no worries and reason to apply this other fix. It just happened to be worth it to me. Thanks again for giving that advice so others who have not yet installed those ms patches are made aware. They did help me in the past too.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> sorry I can not as I'm waiting on a new CPU to arrive so its down and no throttling issues
> 
> 
> 
> What happened with the old one?
> 
> Yeah so 4.3 passed for about 45 mins @ 1.4v, tried 4.4 & failed immediately. Bumped vcore to 1.425 and was testing fine for 15 minutes and then all the cores went down to like 1500mhz *** Running it again
Click to expand...

A little thing I researched a while back that helped my FX-8120 from throttling called core parking. There is a registry fix out there. Even automated software that does the fix for you. Remember this is a different step than the MS patches that you should install first before trying my recommendations. See what works for you.


----------



## madmanmarz

I believe those hotfixes are for windows 7, I am on 8 and I disabled core parking before starting. I have managed the VRM throttling issue with more fans and taking it easy on the VRM settings in the bios but once I went for 4.4/4.5 this time around, all the cores throttled together, not jumping around like the board did. This happened at about exactly 62c.

For ****s and giggles I ran the power supply calculator to figure out wattage used between my old 1090t and this 8320 and the wattage was considerably higher for the 8320. I'm guessing I may in fact be due for some radiator upgrades. I have tried re-seating the block to the CPU and there is no difference.

Does anyone else experience the chip throttling exactly when it hits max temp? I'm still surprised about this since there are people with air cooling doing much better and my current setup works much better than my old ultra 120 extreme heatsink.

To give you guys an idea I have an Enzotech Sapphire Rev A CPU block in the same loop with an MCW82 VGA block. Then I have the 120mm exhaust fan blowing out into a Swiftech MCR120 radiator outside the case, with an ultra kaze 120 fan sandwiched between it, and an XSPC RX120 radiator (all outside). Pump is a Tunze 1073.008 aquarium pump claimed at 800 l/h.

So basically cpu/gpu block cooled by one 120mm radiator and one double wide 120mm radiator with a very powerful fan and an aquarium pump all outside the case. I guess I could replace the skinny 120mm with another fat one and get better fans and see how that goes.

Thanks for the help, I guess I'll have to settle around 4.4 for now . =(((


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I believe those hotfixes are for windows 7, I am on 8 and I disabled core parking before starting. I have managed the VRM throttling issue with more fans and taking it easy on the VRM settings in the bios but once I went for 4.4/4.5 this time around, all the cores throttled together, not jumping around like the board did. This happened at about exactly 62c.
> 
> For ****s and giggles I ran the power supply calculator to figure out wattage used between my old 1090t and this 8320 and the wattage was considerably higher for the 8320. I'm guessing I may in fact be due for some radiator upgrades. I have tried re-seating the block to the CPU and there is no difference.
> 
> Does anyone else experience the chip throttling exactly when it hits max temp? I'm still surprised about this since there are people with air cooling doing much better and my current setup works much better than my old ultra 120 extreme heatsink.
> 
> To give you guys an idea I have an Enzotech Sapphire Rev A CPU block in the same loop with an MCW82 VGA block. Then I have the 120mm exhaust fan blowing out into a Swiftech MCR120 radiator outside the case, with an ultra kaze 120 fan sandwiched between it, and an XSPC RX120 radiator (all outside). Pump is a Tunze 1073.008 aquarium pump claimed at 800 l/h.
> 
> So basically cpu/gpu block cooled by one 120mm radiator and one double wide 120mm radiator with a very powerful fan and an aquarium pump all outside the case. I guess I could replace the skinny 120mm with another fat one and get better fans and see how that goes.
> 
> Thanks for the help, I guess I'll have to settle around 4.4 for now . =(((


Two 120mm just aren't going to cut it for an high OC and a GPU. I recommend you get a bigger better rad like a 480mm or 2x 240mm. I use 2x 240mm. One for my CPU and one for my GPU. Temps on my GPU never exceed 48c and CPU temps on my 8320 @4.9GHz hit 60c @1.56v


----------



## madmanmarz

Aight I guess when I have some money I'll go big or go home. GPU temps are good tho 40c-55c.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Aight I guess when I have some money I'll go big or go home. GPU temps are good tho 40c-55c.


Could you post a pic of your config


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Could you post a pic of your config


Sure I will do tomorrow but I warn you it's a bit ghetto. I'm considering replacing the swiftech rad with another xspc and swapping fans for better ones. I put a CPU fan blowing down across the VRM just now and sealed up any gaps between the fans and radiator and temps have gone down. Throttling is back after about an hour of prime 95 but things are looking OK since this is the longest pass yet, and core temps are around 55c, 70c socket. Currently at 4.4 ghz, 1.440 v (after vdroop, 1.475 in bios), 2475 nb/ht, and ram at 1500 7-8-7- 1t. If it fails I'm going down to 4.275 GHZ and ~1.4 vcore.

Also I was wondering, how does the board know the VRM temps in order to throttle. Think it's going off of the socket temp?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Aight I guess when I have some money I'll go big or go home. GPU temps are good tho 40c-55c.


Dude...

I was telling you all along that 120 rads aint gonna cut it. But you kept saying bla bla the 1090t worked fine.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Dude...
> 
> I was telling you all along that 120 rads aint gonna cut it. But you kept saying bla bla the 1090t worked fine.


Fine, you got me, I was being stubborn.

Seems like a lot of people are using a single 240 to cool both GPU/CPU, so I'm not sure how 2x120's is that far off, especially when they're outside of the case, pump is pretty powerful, and there is a very powerful fan sandwiched between them. I think the biggest contributors are the GPU being on the same loop and ambient temps aren't so great. Also I forgot that when I overclocked my 1090 originally, I lived in a different place and kept my room in the 60's where now it's in the living room with ambient around 77f.

Durvelle 27 I'm very curious about your cooling setup, and what is all that blue tape looking stuff?

Anyway I got this thing stable at 1.45v, 4.4ghz, 2475 ht/nb and 1500 7-8-7-1t on the ram. Probably my weakest personal overclock all things considered but it'll have to do.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Fine, you got me, I was being stubborn.
> 
> Seems like a lot of people are using a single 240 to cool both GPU/CPU, so I'm not sure how 2x120's is that far off, especially when they're outside of the case, pump is pretty powerful, and there is a very powerful fan sandwiched between them. I think the biggest contributors are the GPU being on the same loop and ambient temps aren't so great. Also I forgot that when I overclocked my 1090 originally, I lived in a different place and kept my room in the 60's where now it's in the living room with ambient around 77f.
> 
> Durvelle 27 I'm very curious about your cooling setup, and what is all that blue tape looking stuff?
> 
> Anyway I got this thing stable at 1.45v, 4.4ghz, 2475 ht/nb and 1500 7-8-7-1t on the ram. Probably my weakest personal overclock all things considered but it'll have to do.


I bet their running stock also and what blue tape


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Fine, you got me, I was being stubborn.
> 
> Seems like a lot of people are using a single 240 to cool both GPU/CPU, so I'm not sure how 2x120's is that far off, especially when they're outside of the case, pump is pretty powerful, and there is a very powerful fan sandwiched between them. I think the biggest contributors are the GPU being on the same loop and ambient temps aren't so great. Also I forgot that when I overclocked my 1090 originally, I lived in a different place and kept my room in the 60's where now it's in the living room with ambient around 77f.
> 
> Durvelle 27 I'm very curious about your cooling setup, and what is all that blue tape looking stuff?
> 
> Anyway I got this thing stable at 1.45v, 4.4ghz, 2475 ht/nb and 1500 7-8-7-1t on the ram. Probably my weakest personal overclock all things considered but it'll have to do.


Really? Are you using the rads as sandwich?
Try switching to making them both push/pull and not on top of each other. This way you are just cooling the 2nd rad with the hot air from the first one....

And a 240 rad for cpu and gpu IMO isn't enough either. Although there of course are many different rads.
I would advise at least and 240 and 120 rad. Preferably two 240 rads. Or one 360 and one 120.


----------



## madmanmarz

Yeah I sacrifice a little performance with the sandwich. My case is kind of old and beat up so maybe in a year I'll get a new one and redo the water setup, block on the VRMs, etc. For now I guess I'll leave it be though. Maybe add a bigger reservoir and better fans (stuff I can reuse for a future setup).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Yeah I sacrifice a little performance with the sandwich. My case is kind of old and beat up so maybe in a year I'll get a new one and redo the water setup, block on the VRMs, etc. For now I guess I'll leave it be though. Maybe add a bigger reservoir and better fans (stuff I can reuse for a future setup).


Good plan.

Gentle typhoons ap-15 fans is all you need. They also last a long time.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Good plan.
> 
> Gentle typhoons ap-15 fans is all you need. They also last a long time.


Yeah lots of recommendations for those. What about the whole static pressure thing? I used to care more about noise but now that this thing is in the living room and I game with headphones, noise is less of an issue.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Yeah lots of recommendations for those. What about the whole static pressure thing? I used to care more about noise but now that this thing is in the living room and I game with headphones, noise is less of an issue.


Static pressure is all you need.

There are fans that push 100+ cfm but have low static pressure, these will push very little air through dense radiators.

Just do some research on which fans have high static pressure.
But most recommend the ap-15's because you can hardly get any better.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Fine, you got me, I was being stubborn.
> 
> Seems like a lot of people are using a single 240 to cool both GPU/CPU, so I'm not sure how 2x120's is that far off, especially when they're outside of the case, pump is pretty powerful, and there is a very powerful fan sandwiched between them. I think the biggest contributors are the GPU being on the same loop and ambient temps aren't so great. Also I forgot that when I overclocked my 1090 originally, I lived in a different place and kept my room in the 60's where now it's in the living room with ambient around 77f.
> 
> Durvelle 27 I'm very curious about your cooling setup, and what is all that blue tape looking stuff?
> 
> Anyway I got this thing stable at 1.45v, 4.4ghz, 2475 ht/nb and 1500 7-8-7-1t on the ram. Probably my weakest personal overclock all things considered but it'll have to do.


I'm curious how high you can get that OC using the stock CPU voltage.
(Ultra high LLC - Disable Turbo - Save + Exit BIOS) - Make sure to set Current Capability to 130% for Ram,CPUNB and CPU - HPC Enabled

Load the DOCP for that ram to start with, and then just keep bumping up the CPU ratio until it fails. Add voltage and re-test until you get your max temps.

If possible I would also recommend to take the back panel off and put a fan blowing on the back of the socket.

(leave the HT Link and CPU/NB at whatever speeds the DOCP profile sets for it)

The M5A97 Evo should have all the Digi+ VRM settings as it's •Dual Intelligent Processors 2 with DIGI+ VRM


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> I'm curious how high you can get that OC using the stock CPU voltage.
> (Ultra high LLC - Disable Turbo - Save + Exit BIOS) - Make sure to set Current Capability to 130% for Ram,CPUNB and CPU - HPC Enabled
> 
> Load the DOCP for that ram to start with, and then just keep bumping up the CPU ratio until it fails. Add voltage and re-test until you get your max temps.
> 
> If possible I would also recommend to take the back panel off and put a fan blowing on the back of the socket.
> 
> (leave the HT Link and CPU/NB at whatever speeds the DOCP profile sets for it)
> 
> The M5A97 Evo should have all the Digi+ VRM settings as it's •Dual Intelligent Processors 2 with DIGI+ VRM


I did that already and actually had better temps this time around with LLC to high/reg and using a higher voltage. I set voltage to 1.4v initially and I think it was good up to 4.2 for an hour (never did a full test). The problem is that once you get to mid 50s core temp (or maybe 60s at the socket), the VRMs start throttling. I actually performed most of my testing at ultra high/extreme LLC and current capability at 140/130% before going to high/reg.

I will try a fan on the back one of these days but I did put a CPU fan blowing down across the VRMs. I guess with how early the throttling kicks in with this board, I have no choice but to keep the CPU much cooler than needed.

On a positive note my windows experience score went from 7.9, 7.9, (CPU/RAM) to 8.1, 8.1


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I did that already and actually had better temps this time around with LLC to high/reg and using a higher voltage. I set voltage to 1.4v initially and I think it was good up to 4.2 for an hour (never did a full test). The problem is that once you get to mid 50s core temp (or maybe 60s at the socket), the VRMs start throttling. I actually performed most of my testing at ultra high/extreme LLC and current capability at 140/130% before going to high/reg.
> 
> I will try a fan on the back one of these days but I did put a CPU fan blowing down across the VRMs. I guess with how early the throttling kicks in with this board, I have no choice but to keep the CPU much cooler than needed.
> 
> On a positive note my windows experience score went from 7.9, 7.9, (CPU/RAM) to 8.1, 8.1


Did you try it with your DOCP ram profile loaded? (probably 1600Mhz) and the normal CPUNB/HTLink settings.
Also HPC mode Enabled is suppose to prevent it from throttling too soon.

What is your voltage with Turbo Disabled LLC on Auto at stock settings? If you have a low VID CPU with one really bad module that takes a lot of voltage then you really are in trouble as the low VID chips run hot.

Most 8320's and 8350's can hit ~4.5Ghz with a Hyper 212 Evo style air cooler in ~22C ambient temperatures, if you can use that as a reference.

Nice upgrade to Windows 8
On a side note: You did update your BIOS to one that supports Piledriver?


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Did you try it with your DOCP ram profile loaded? (probably 1600Mhz) and the normal CPUNB/HTLink settings.
> Also HPC mode Enabled is suppose to prevent it from throttling too soon.
> I had HPC enabled about 90% of the time. I never tried loading my DOCP profile exactly but I did loosen timings and speed, with normal voltage. I tried a lot of NB/HT settings but generally i left them around 2200/2200 or 2200/2400ish. I usually ran everything (cpunb,ht,nb,RAM) lower with a slight voltage bump to keep them out of the equation as much as possible.
> 
> What is your voltage with Turbo Disabled LLC on Auto at stock settings? If you have a low VID CPU with one really bad module that takes a lot of voltage then you really are in trouble as the low VID chips run hot.
> I will have to check in on this but I keep having this feeling that mine is not a great chip.
> 
> Most 8320's and 8350's can hit ~4.5Ghz with a Hyper 212 Evo style air cooler in ~22C ambient temperatures, if you can use that as a reference.
> My cooling is definitely better than something like that but my ambient is a bit higher. Years ago I was on ultra-120 extreme and this was like a 10* drop in temps from that.
> 
> Nice upgrade to Windows 8
> On a side note: You did update your BIOS to one that supports Piledriver?
> Yes, I did when it came out a while back but there haven't been any new BIOS updates in quite a whle for the m5a97 evo r.1 unfortunately.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Guys when you go water cooled your effectively taking cooling away from the vrm's if you can, get a water block for your vrm's, better than any other option, if your using an aio water cooler stick that on ebay and buy yourself a thermalright sb-e extreme, providing your case will fit it, if you have a custom loop setup make sure your using seperate radiators for cpu, vrms and gpu or your effectively transfering heat from one to the next, personally id leave the graphics air cooled if the cpu is throttling until you get a seperate or larger rad, i have 4.5 at 49c core temp, 56c socket under prime95 testing, with 1.44v on a m5a99x evo r2.0 board using a thermalright sb-e extreme, check my rig for the setup before i put it in a clear case


----------



## gunslinger0077

Hi I need to know what settings I should change to get to 5.0. At current settings i get Illegal sumout errors in prime95.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Guys when you go water cooled your effectively taking cooling away from the vrm's if you can, get a water block for your vrm's, better than any other option, if your using an aio water cooler stick that on ebay and buy yourself a thermalright sb-e extreme, providing your case will fit it, if you have a custom loop setup make sure your using seperate radiators for cpu, vrms and gpu or your effectively transfering heat from one to the next, personally id leave the graphics air cooled if the cpu is throttling until you get a seperate or larger rad, i have 4.5 at 49c core temp, 56c socket under prime95 testing, with 1.44v on a m5a99x evo r2.0 board using a thermalright sb-e extreme, check my rig for the setup before i put it in a clear case


VRM cooling is easily remedied by a fan on the VRMs. A block is nice but I think the throttling is from socket temps (my guess).

I came previously from a ultra 120 extreme and I cant tell you that nothing beats good water. Even if I'm sharing between GPU/CPU the noise benefit and more stable temps are worth it (less spikes). Plus having a ginormous heatsink doesn't work for everybody.

Definitely not transfering heat from one to the next. Maybe the average of both but I cant tell you that neither my GPU nor CPU hit over 55*

Lastly, don't forget that the 8xxx series has 2 more cores to throw extra heat into the mixture.

By the way I ordered 3 Koolance 120x38mm fans (the quieter 116cfm), which apparently have very high static pressure. Not the quietest but hopefully they'll do.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Maybe you have a bad chip then, Or theres something not set right in the bios? Start from stock and follow the guide to the letter, i understand you have oc before with other chips but maybe the fx behaves differently and your missing something, ive never oc before this and was able to reach a max oc of 4.8 on air, temps were just below max so rather than risk it i dropped it to 4.5 for better temps and at not much of a loss, my ram will oc to 1866 with 11-11-11-27 t1 timings at 4.5 too but temps increase and the tighter timings of 9-9-9-24 at 1600 mhz give me better results when gaming and multitasking


----------



## ChristianUshuaia

Hi there, How to check the socket temp on HWmonitor 64bits?.

My noob, mild, roockie, begginer experience with FX-8350:

I was able to get all 8 cores working up to 5.0GHz 1.4v anything higher than that crashed on me. Then I had to deactivate 2 cores to get stability. Lately I was able to take my water cooled FX-8350 up to 5.3GHz with only 6 active cores at 1.5v manual. Super PI 1.5 passed and thats it. I only changed the multi to 25 and manually set the voltage to 1.5v. Ram was set to 1600MHz at that time. And at 5.2GHz 6 cores (1.5v) I was able to set the 4x4gb Viper III Black Mamba at 2400MHz 11-12-11-30 2T 1.68v, I don't think it would be Prime95 stable though.

Its impossible to get to windows at 5.3GHz 6 cores (1.55V) Ram 2400MHz (1.68). I'm thinking on getting to the highest OC possible on this chip. I need this for Super PI 1.5 better scores. I saw ppl on the web getting al 8 cores working at 5.3GHz but the voltage was set way to high, also ram OC helps on the final score.

I have heard on being cautios when touching the LLC to high because of voltage raises. Any recomendations, experiences?. Thank you all in advance.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ChristianUshuaia*
> 
> Hi there, How to check the socket temp on HWmonitor 64bits?.
> 
> My noob, mild, roockie, begginer experience with FX-8350:
> 
> I was able to get all 8 cores working up to 5.0GHz 1.4v anything higher than that crashed on me. Then I had to deactivate 2 cores to get stability. Lately I was able to take my water cooled FX-8350 up to 5.3GHz with only 6 active cores at 1.5v manual. Super PI 1.5 passed and thats it. I only changed the multi to 25 and manually set the voltage to 1.5v. Ram was set to 1600MHz at that time. And at 5.2GHz 6 cores (1.5v) I was able to set the 4x4gb Viper III Black Mamba at 2400MHz 11-12-11-30 2T 1.68v, I don't think it would be Prime95 stable though.
> 
> Its impossible to get to windows at 5.3GHz 6 cores (1.55V) Ram 2400MHz (1.68). I'm thinking on getting to the highest OC possible on this chip. I need this for Super PI 1.5 better scores. I saw ppl on the web getting al 8 cores working at 5.3GHz but the voltage was set way to high, also ram OC helps on the final score.
> 
> I have heard on being cautios when touching the LLC to high because of voltage raises. Any recomendations, experiences?. Thank you all in advance.


5.0 at 1.4v is awesome if you ask me.
How are your temps btw?

As long as you are within the safe limits you can up the voltage no problem. These chips are killed by heat, not voltage.
Have you upped the cpu-nb voltage to get stability btw? I find that upping this to 1.3v or more helps for high overclocks.


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Nice setup. You have a great platform for overclocking that 6100. Feel free to post your OC results. It'll be very interesting to see how far you can push it.
> You can post any Benchmarks if you like too. Just wrap it in the Spoiler Tag so it doesn't take over the whole page.


Morning All,

ComputerRestore:
Another thank you for your guide!

Two reasons for my post&#8230;
1.Wanted to show my progress thus far.
I've been able to pull off a 4.5Ghz OC, which I'd say is pretty stable&#8230;(See attached)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








2.I'm obviously going to keep pushing but before I do, I was hoping I could get some feedback on my current settings, and some recommendations on where to go from here. (See attached)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Thanks in advance for your insight and help!


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunslinger0077*
> 
> Hi I need to know what settings I should change to get to 5.0. At current settings i get Illegal sumout errors in prime95.


How high were you able to get with stability?

My suggestions would be to increase the CPU/NB voltage a little bit (1.25v-1.3v) and make sure to cool the VRM's somehow.

If you didn't work your way up to 5.0Ghz from a lower Overclock then I would also recommend to try and get the CPU voltage as low as you can for that OC.
Voltage really sky rockets temps at that frequency which could be part of the instability if you're feeding it too much.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus2501*
> 
> Morning All,
> 
> ComputerRestore:
> Another thank you for your guide!
> 
> Two reasons for my post&#8230;
> 1.Wanted to show my progress thus far.
> 
> 2.I'm obviously going to keep pushing but before I do, I was hoping I could get some feedback on my current settings, and some recommendations on where to go from here. (See attached)


Nice work so far. Your settings and temps look great. If you run into issues with higher clocks, I would say to put CPU/CPUNB Power Response Control back to auto. I'm not sure what the Auto Setting actually runs at, but my board didn't like any other settings at higher clocks.


----------



## gunslinger0077

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> How high were you able to get with stability?
> 
> My suggestions would be to increase the CPU/NB voltage a little bit (1.25v-1.3v) and make sure to cool the VRM's somehow.
> 
> If you didn't work your way up to 5.0Ghz from a lower Overclock then I would also recommend to try and get the CPU voltage as low as you can for that OC.
> Voltage really sky rockets temps at that frequency which could be part of the instability if you're feeding it too much.
> Nice work so far. Your settings and temps look great. If you run into issues with higher clocks, I would say to put CPU/CPUNB Power Response Control back to auto. I'm not sure what the Auto Setting actually runs at, but my board didn't like any other settings at higher clocks.


4.8 on 1.464 vcore is what im running now stable.
i tried cpu/nb voltage all the way up to 1.35


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunslinger0077*
> 
> 4.8 on 1.464 vcore is what im running now stable.
> i tried cpu/nb voltage all the way up to 1.35


Looks like you have a good chip then.

CPU 1.5v
CPU/NB 1.25v

Around those marks should be good for your CPU. Maybe try Power Phase at Extreme.
Rounding Errors are usually related to the IMC or Ram, so try a lower frequency, or lower/raise the DRAM voltage.

As long as your temps are good (Core and Socket) you should be able to get it.


----------



## gunslinger0077

got it up to 4.9 but it wont run 5.0 here is a screen shot of temps, its pretty warm here today right now.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gunslinger0077*
> 
> got it up to 4.9 but it wont run 5.0 here is a screen shot of temps, its pretty warm here today right now.


Yeah, looks to be cutting it close even at 4.9Ghz. If I'm understanding correctly, you require a 0.1v bump in CPU voltage from 4.8Ghz to 4.9Ghz? When you start to see jumps like that, then you are pretty limited on going any further. I've seen some theory-crafting that the IMC will lose stability on some chips above 55C which causes it to start needing some crazy voltage for stability. I suspect that's what you will run into on your journey to 5.0Ghz. Most likely you could set around 1.52v for daily use and never have an issue.

Your CPU looks pretty tough though, so it might be worth it to mess around with the cooling. Maybe try a table fan blowing direcly on the back of the CPU socket to help bring down temps. You can also try lowering the CPU/NB, CPU PLL Voltages and DRAM voltages. As long as it keeps stability it'll greatly help with temps.


----------



## gunslinger0077

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Yeah, looks to be cutting it close even at 4.9Ghz. If I'm understanding correctly, you require a 0.1v bump in CPU voltage from 4.8Ghz to 4.9Ghz? When you start to see jumps like that, then you are pretty limited on going any further. I've seen some theory-crafting that the IMC will lose stability on some chips above 55C which causes it to start needing some crazy voltage for stability. I suspect that's what you will run into on your journey to 5.0Ghz. Most likely you could set around 1.52v for daily use and never have an issue.
> Your CPU looks pretty tough though, so it might be worth it to mess around with the cooling. Maybe try a table fan blowing direcly on the back of the CPU socket to help bring down temps. You can also try lowering the CPU/NB, CPU PLL Voltages and DRAM voltages. As long as it keeps stability it'll greatly help with temps.
> 
> Your CPU looks pretty tough though, so it might be worth it to mess around with the cooling. Maybe try a table fan blowing direcly on the back of the CPU socket to help bring down temps. You can also try lowering the CPU/NB, CPU PLL Voltages and DRAM voltages. As long as it keeps stability it'll greatly help with temps.


Think im just going to run 4.8 i can run it at low 50's on temp stress testing. rep for your help


----------



## dmnclocker

First off thank you for this awesome post, really helpful. I have a couple of questions. I followed your oc using multiplier and was confused about a couple things. The part where you set dram 1600mhz @1.5 do I set the ram to 1600 and go to dram voltages and change to 1.5?The ram I have is 1333mhz. Another part is with changing cpu /nb voltage my stock is 1.187 and you said change it to at least 2. 5?A little confused about LLC too, as I put on ultra my temps get too high so I put it on high so should current be130% still?I'm able to go to 4.5 ghz if I bump cpu voltage up to 1.3875,but my temps are 56°.Is there any way to bring temps down besides better cooler or dropping down cpu ratio? Btw I have Amd fx 8350 cpu and crosshair v formula-z motherboard.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> First off thank you for this awesome post, really helpful. I have a couple of questions. I followed your oc using multiplier and was confused about a couple things. The part where you set dram 1600mhz @1.5 do I set the ram to 1600 and go to dram voltages and change to 1.5?The ram I have is 1333mhz. Another part is with changing cpu /nb voltage my stock is 1.187 and you said change it to at least 2. 5?A little confused about LLC too, as I put on ultra my temps get too high so I put it on high so should current be130% still?I'm able to go to 4.5 ghz if I bump cpu voltage up to 1.3875,but my temps are 56°.Is there any way to bring temps down besides better cooler or dropping down cpu ratio? Btw I have Amd fx 8350 cpu and crosshair v formula-z motherboard.


Hello,

Definitely, if your ram is only rated for 1333Mhz then you should set it as that. You should have a DOCP Profile to select for 1333 that will set all the optimal setting for your ram. The 1600Mhz is only an example of the base speed for the ram, in order to figure out the maximum Overclock of the CPU while not putting too much strain on the Memory Controller (Compared to 2400Mhz etc)

For the CPU/NB Voltage I recommend setting it to 1.25v. This can be changed or adjusted after overclocking, but many of the CPUs seem to hit an Overclock wall at 4.6Ghz which required the CPU/NB voltage to be raised, as that is the voltage for the Memory Controller.

Ultra High LLC may cause your CPU to run hotter under load, as it will prevent the CPU voltage from dropping as much as a lower setting will. As long as you are able to compensate with a lower setting, then you should be ok using which ever you choose. You should still keep CPU Current Capabilities @ 130%.

What type of cooling are you using. What are you using to measure your CPU temps?


----------



## dmnclocker

I set docp and it filled in info, but it also filled in bus speed and such,I should put bus speed back to auto? If I set ram to 1333 mhz what do I put dram voltage at? The cooling I have is 6 fans, 3 aeorocool shark 82cfm and rest cooler master 69 cfm sickle flow. Cpu cooler is zalman 9900 blue led and I'm using aida64 to monitor temps.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> I set docp and it filled in info, but it also filled in bus speed and such,I should put bus speed back to auto? If I set ram to 1333 mhz what do I put dram voltage at? The cooling I have is 6 fans, 3 aeorocool shark 82cfm and rest cooler master 69 cfm sickle flow. Cpu cooler is zalman 9900 blue led and I'm using aida64 to monitor temps.


You can leave the HT Link and CPU/NB speeds at whatever DOCP sets it to as it will be optimized for your ram profile that way. DOCP will automatically set the DRAM Voltage to whatever it needs as well, so that can be left alone.

From there on, you are pretty much limted to what your zalman 9900 capacity is. The only way to get a lower temp then would be to get better cooling, or to make sure you have the VCore as low as possible. Having a fan blow on the back of the CPU Socket will help a little as well. Make sure you are monitoring the Core/Package temp in AIDA64 as that is the one that is limited to 62C.
For stressing you can go higher than 62C, but for daily usage you'll want it <62C


----------



## dmnclocker

I was able to get to 4.4 Ghz with cpu volt at 1.3625000 so i ran prime small for 1 hr and it as good so i decided to run custom and after 5 min the core failed #8.If the same core is failing all the time does that mean that that core is bad?When i put prime on custom i didn't change any info,do i have to?I bumped cpu voltage up to 1.375000 and ran custom test again for about 45 min and no fail,i know i have to run longer,but i don't have time now.Is there something i'm doing wrong?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> I was able to get to 4.4 Ghz with cpu volt at 1.3625000 so i ran prime small for 1 hr and it as good so i decided to run custom and after 5 min the core failed #8.If the same core is failing all the time does that mean that that core is bad?When i put prime on custom i didn't change any info,do i have to?I bumped cpu voltage up to 1.375000 and ran custom test again for about 45 min and no fail,i know i have to run longer,but i don't have time now.Is there something i'm doing wrong?


If it fails it sounds as too low voltage to me....
Can also have to do with the ram but I'm not sure.

I need about 1.408v for 4.44 if that helps. Cpu-nb 1.287v 2400mhz, ht-link 2400.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> I was able to get to 4.4 Ghz with cpu volt at 1.3625000 so i ran prime small for 1 hr and it as good so i decided to run custom and after 5 min the core failed #8.If the same core is failing all the time does that mean that that core is bad?When i put prime on custom i didn't change any info,do i have to?I bumped cpu voltage up to 1.375000 and ran custom test again for about 45 min and no fail,i know i have to run longer,but i don't have time now.Is there something i'm doing wrong?


So far you're doing exactly what you're supposed to be doing in the OC process. Set your target clock speed, in your case 4.4, work on making it stable (small FFT for 10 minutes, if all is well then run custom) so everything looks good, that's the process.

From my experience (which isn't a whole lot but I'm in the middle of it now with similar clock speeds as you) the whole process is just that. Restart/bump voltage/restart/run prime/failed core during prime custom/restart/bump voltage again/etc etc. When I got failed cores a voltage bump is what fixed it for me. I would bump it 1 at a time until no more failures. For me Core failures would occur within the first hour and a half of a custom stress test (that's the longest my cpu would run before cores failed...) in 15 or so tests cores have never failed beyond that point so If 2 hours went by with no failures, chances were good that it is stable (for me):

Here is my set up:
4.5Ghz clock
CPU VCORE: 1.39 (while idle it will be at 1.38, when I run Prime it goes up to 1.39)
6 hours on Prime95 Custom with no core failures (under custom I set the RAM to 75% of my total ram, as per ComputerRestore's guide suggest)

How long you run Prime95 has been debated over and over (seriously I've gone blind reading on it) Some say 4 hours, 6 hours, 8, 12 (some have even said 72 hours) Your stability test time should reflect your usage. For me I do gaming (4-6 hours in a clip) and I do a few hours of video encoding here and there. I don't fold and I shut my CPU down every night. Folders who run their PC's 24/7 AND under full load most likely need those extreme levels (24-36 hours) of stability testing. What are yours?


----------



## Charliew87

Im really at a loss here.

[email protected] The chip itself seems to be GODLY (FX-8320) but its so damn hot. It reaches 62c after about 2 minutes of prime95ing (stopped after that) and Im using an Antec 1220 integrated watercooler (coolance 240mm rad).

The water temps seem to be mirroring the temps of the package, which means its attached properly I guess.The question is if the radiator itself is doing anything at all. Are the fans that come with the cooler THAT bad?

Running games etc to check for stability atm since I cant prime for long, it hasnt even frozen ONCE. I really want to test what this chip can do (Built the rig for a friend and going home tomorrow, stupid me used Arctic silver 5 which has a cure time).

Still the water temperature proves that cpu->cooler is working fine, guess the problem needs to be cooler->rad then, and the pump seems to be working fine : /.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charliew87*
> 
> Im really at a loss here.
> 
> [email protected] The chip itself seems to be GODLY (FX-8320) but its so damn hot. It reaches 62c after about 2 minutes of prime95ing (stopped after that) and Im using an Antec 1220 integrated watercooler (coolance 240mm rad).
> 
> The water temps seem to be mirroring the temps of the package, which means its attached properly I guess.The question is if the radiator itself is doing anything at all. Are the fans that come with the cooler THAT bad?
> 
> Running games etc to check for stability atm since I cant prime for long, it hasnt even frozen ONCE. I really want to test what this chip can do (Built the rig for a friend and going home tomorrow, stupid me used Arctic silver 5 which has a cure time).
> 
> Still the water temperature proves that cpu->cooler is working fine, guess the problem needs to be cooler->rad then, and the pump seems to be working fine : /.


The antec integrated water cooler isnt as good as some of the top air coolers such as the noctua and thermalright sb-e, and at the same price, the problem is vrm cooling and as its a sealed system theres not much you can do to increase its effectiveness, you would think that with it being a water cooler it would be better but even corsairs h100i loses to the thermalright sb-e extreme although the extreme is kinda noisy when the fans are at 100%, trust me i have 3 in mine and although mine will run 4.8 with temps not exceeding 50 its like its ready to take off, my suggestion would be to try adding some fans to the other side of your rad to pull and push air through to increase effectiveness, try making sure ur rad is outside the tower too and a desk fan blowing air towards will cool the air hitting the rad, thats the cheapest option to lower temps a few degrees, although you will need to think about better cooling eventually


----------



## dmnclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> So far you're doing exactly what you're supposed to be doing in the OC process. Set your target clock speed, in your case 4.4, work on making it stable (small FFT for 10 minutes, if all is well then run custom) so everything looks good, that's the process.
> 
> From my experience (which isn't a whole lot but I'm in the middle of it now with similar clock speeds as you) the whole process is just that. Restart/bump voltage/restart/run prime/failed core during prime custom/restart/bump voltage again/etc etc. When I got failed cores a voltage bump is what fixed it for me. I would bump it 1 at a time until no more failures. For me Core failures would occur within the first hour and a half of a custom stress test (that's the longest my cpu would run before cores failed...) in 15 or so tests cores have never failed beyond that point so If 2 hours went by with no failures, chances were good that it is stable (for me):
> 
> Here is my set up:
> 4.5Ghz clock
> CPU VCORE: 1.39 (while idle it will be at 1.38, when I run Prime it goes up to 1.39)
> 6 hours on Prime95 Custom with no core failures (under custom I set the RAM to 75% of my total ram, as per ComputerRestore's guide suggest)
> 
> How long you run Prime95 has been debated over and over (seriously I've gone blind reading on it) Some say 4 hours, 6 hours, 8, 12 (some have even said 72 hours) Your stability test time should reflect your usage. For me I do gaming (4-6 hours in a clip) and I do a few hours of video encoding here and there. I don't fold and I shut my CPU down every night. Folders who run their PC's 24/7 AND under full load most likely need those extreme levels (24-36 hours) of stability testing. What are yours?


Thanks for help. I upped cpu voltage and ran custom again, this time I used 75% of ram (I have 16 gb so I set number to 12288 MB and test failed, bit it wasn't the same core so I brought up the cpu /nb voltage and I'm waiting for rensuresImI'm about like you few hours of gaming not real hardcore.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> Thanks for help. I upped cpu voltage and ran custom again, this time I used 75% of ram (I have 16 gb so I set number to 12288 MB and test failed, bit it wasn't the same core so I brought up the cpu /nb voltage and I'm waiting for rensuresImI'm about like you few hours of gaming not real hardcore.


Yeah you'll see, one bump at a time til the cores stop failing (and they will stop). Core failures can be due to memory and various other things but when it happens in this setting its more often than not insufficient voltage. Let us know


----------



## swnny

On my Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0, can someone explain to me how exactly CPU & NB Voltage Offset Mode works? Whatever + 0.0xxxx value I put, the readings under load in HWmonitor/CPU-Z don't differ much from the AUTO setting. And does the value in Manual Mode override any power saving features? Because when I enter 1.4v (for example), it's stays like that no matter if it's in idle or under load. Kinda confused...


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swnny*
> 
> On my Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0, can someone explain to me how exactly CPU & NB Voltage Offset Mode works? Whatever + 0.0xxxx value I put, the readings under load in HWmonitor/CPU-Z don't differ much from the AUTO setting. And does the value in Manual Mode override any power saving features? Because when I enter 1.4v (for example), it's stays like that no matter if it's in idle or under load. Kinda confused...


You need to run in Offset Mode if you want the CPU Frequency to drop at idle. I can't remember what setting that is off the top of my head, that it overrides if you use Manual Mode.

You wont be able to see the CPU/NB changes in HWMonitor. You can only see CPU Voltage.


----------



## swnny

Thank you for the reply! That clears somethings!
But still, I have a stable overclock of 4.4GHz at 1.438v set in manual, but I don't want my cpu running at that voltage 24/7, so I want to do the same oc, but with offset. The problem is that I can't get the vcore under load any higher then 1.380 no matter what offset I choose. If I lower LLC to regular(0), the vcore under load will rise to about 1.392, but it's not enough. I've tried with '+' values from 0.00625 to 0.05000, but the vcore just stays at 1.380v... That's whats bothers me. Any ideas will be appreciated.


----------



## DarthElvis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swnny*
> 
> On my Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0, can someone explain to me how exactly CPU & NB Voltage Offset Mode works? Whatever + 0.0xxxx value I put, the readings under load in HWmonitor/CPU-Z don't differ much from the AUTO setting. And does the value in Manual Mode override any power saving features? Because when I enter 1.4v (for example), it's stays like that no matter if it's in idle or under load. Kinda confused...


I second this. Is there a guide around for offset mode? I remember seeing one around, well maybe not a guide, but a pretty in depth posting or two. But damned if I can find it. What I need to know is this:
I have my 8350 stable (2hr.s OCCT(for both tests, actually 3 - avx on and off for the linpack) and a 6hr queue on Handbrake) at 4.6 @ 1.36V, all digi settings from the guide. I believe my stock VID is 1.31V. Now, how would I go about setting offset mode to reflect that without crashing all over the place? Does the + or - mean it adjusts from the stock VID, or is it working with whatever gawdawful voltage that the board would set in auto? Or is there some other kind of voodoo at play that only the gods understand?
I would really like to use C'n'Q this time around. And as I see from HWiNFO, the multi drops great, but the voltage doesn't. Really annoying since it also shows the VID, which drops to a nice 0.88v while my Vcore stays at 1.36v.
Again, sorry if this has been answered before, but my search has turned up nothing of any real relevance. Lots of guys saying "use offset" but not explaining how to go about that once you have a stable o/c. It's quite possible I missed it, but the Vishera owners club is thousands of pages alone. Even a simple "DON'T DO THIS" type of thing would be great.


----------



## swnny

You can check out the Vishera Owner's Club thread for a good discussion about this(my) problem. Hope it helps.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swnny*
> 
> Thank you for the reply! That clears somethings!
> But still, I have a stable overclock of 4.4GHz at 1.438v set in manual, but I don't want my cpu running at that voltage 24/7, so I want to do the same oc, but with offset. The problem is that I can't get the vcore under load any higher then 1.380 no matter what offset I choose. If I lower LLC to regular(0), the vcore under load will rise to about 1.392, but it's not enough. I've tried with '+' values from 0.00625 to 0.05000, but the vcore just stays at 1.380v... That's whats bothers me. Any ideas will be appreciated.


Offset is kind of tricky. Here is what I remember from it.

Changing the CPU Multiplier will change the Offset CPU Voltage after a Reboot. So basically to start out you want to have a + 0 Offset

From running in Manual Mode you should know what your CPU required to keep stable. So here's an example since it's not an exact Science:

Set Multi to 23 for a Frequency of 4.6Ghz using Offset Mode - Save and Reset
Back in the BIOS now your CPU Voltage says 1.38v

So.....maybe your CPU only took 1.36v for 4.6Ghz, what now? Well you can do a "-" offset of 0.02v which will actually drop the voltage under load, but keep in mind you also have to compensate for vdroop. You could use a lower level of LLC and keep an Offset of 0 for example. So keep that in mind.
or.......
Maybe your CPU takes 1.4v for 4.6Ghz. Now you'll want "+" to add voltage 0.04 - and also consider vdroop and levels of LLC. Maybe you'll have to add 0.05v running Ultra High LLC as an example.

Hope that helps. But the main thing is to start with 0 Offset until you have your CPU Ratio set as it will change the CPU voltage upon restart.


----------



## HeatPwnz

Hello
I'm having a lot of bad luck with my fx8350... motherboard is msi 990fx-gd80
I was trying to clock it and tweak around with it and got some really misarble results and I have a lot of questions
1.) I managed to make my fx stable on prime @ 4.3ghz, only on 1.4V (load 1.32V in load - cpuz)
2.) then I tried going on 4.4 but my vcore limit in bios is only 1.44V (load 1.36V in load - cpuz) and I dont know why, and every voltage below that was complete failure with one of cores in prime
3.) then I tried running same settings like in 1.) step and got core failure again...

can someone guide me or something because I cant belive I'm having so bad luck with a cpu
most of the things are the same as on the tutorial in first 2 posts


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HeatPwnz*
> 
> Hello
> I'm having a lot of bad luck with my fx8350... motherboard is msi 990fx-gd80
> I was trying to clock it and tweak around with it and got some really misarble results and I have a lot of questions
> 1.) I managed to make my fx stable on prime @ 4.3ghz, only on 1.4V (load 1.32V in load - cpuz)
> 2.) then I tried going on 4.4 but my vcore limit in bios is only 1.44V (load 1.36V in load - cpuz) and I dont know why, and every voltage below that was complete failure with one of cores in prime
> 3.) then I tried running same settings like in 1.) step and got core failure again...
> 
> can someone guide me or something because I cant belive I'm having so bad luck with a cpu
> most of the things are the same as on the tutorial in first 2 posts


http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database/1270#post_20838600
Check the post out for info on your board, possibly ask if anyone has oc'ed with it, ive been advised to keep away lol


----------



## dmnclocker

How do I know when I'm running prime test and core fails if I have to up cpu voltage or cpu/nb voltage?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> How do I know when I'm running prime test and core fails if I have to up cpu voltage or cpu/nb voltage?


Hardware Failure usually means more CPU Voltage
Rounding Error usually means more CPU/NB Voltage or Ram issues. (More/Less DRAM Voltage - Lower Frequency etc)


----------



## dmnclocker

Where do you see those error messages?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> Where do you see those error messages?


When a core fails using Prime95 it will show that error on the core that failed. There are some error messages that I'm not too sure what they mean. It's mostly the WARNING errors, where there isn't Hardware or Rounding Errors. I believe those may be related to Temperature related throttling.


----------



## dmnclocker

I had a question maybe someone can answer.I had some parts in pc in pci slots and i no longer use them so i bought pci slot covers http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999224 Is it better if i'm using air cooling to use closed slot covers so the cold air circulates in the case or the vented ones like this?


----------



## madmanmarz

Alright soooo this week I get my new gpu and fans. I am going to mount a fan on the back of the gpu, at a slight angle so it blows over the cpu socket and vrm's, and out the top of the case, in an attempt to reduce cpu socket temps and throtting from the mobo.

I am still torn on whether or not to mount a back/side panel fan, because I will have to cut a hole in both the side panel, and the area behind the motherboard.

I am also going to upgrade all the radiator fans with the koolance fans, in a push|sandwich|pull config. Then I will try some of the things I read in this thread and report back.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> I had a question maybe someone can answer.I had some parts in pc in pci slots and i no longer use them so i bought pci slot covers http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999224 Is it better if i'm using air cooling to use closed slot covers so the cold air circulates in the case or the vented ones like this?


All comes down to the rest of the fan setup. If you have proper positive pressure I would say vented slot covers. Negative pressure is closed.
I even taped it off completely once when I did a negative pressure setup.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Alright soooo this week I get my new gpu and fans. I am going to mount a fan on the back of the gpu, at a slight angle so it blows over the cpu socket and vrm's, and out the top of the case, in an attempt to reduce cpu socket temps and throtting from the mobo.
> 
> I am still torn on whether or not to mount a back/side panel fan, because I will have to cut a hole in both the side panel, and the area behind the motherboard.
> 
> I am also going to upgrade all the radiator fans with the koolance fans, in a push|sandwich|pull config. Then I will try some of the things I read in this thread and report back.


I would say do it!

Putting a fan so it blows to the backside of the cpu and vrm's can make quiet a difference.
How is your cutting skill?








If you have a dremel it is done pretty fast. Just make sure to measure things 2 times.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> All comes down to the rest of the fan setup. If you have proper positive pressure I would say vented slot covers. Negative pressure is closed.
> I even taped it off completely once when I did a negative pressure setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say do it!
> 
> Putting a fan so it blows to the backside of the cpu and vrm's can make quiet a difference.
> How is your cutting skill?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have a dremel it is done pretty fast. Just make sure to measure things 2 times.


I have done some dremel cutting in the past. I cut down a micro-atx case so that it would fit in a large backpack and basically traveled the world with it. I just have too many projects. I'm supposed to be fitting fiberglass fairings on my bike and a bi-xenon projector!

Also my sister has my old 1055t rig, and I just found an 1100t with an h70 dual fan liquid cooling sys on the bay for $120!! Gonna hook her up and sell her chip...Btw I sold my 1090t for $145 which means my fx-8320 was free so even with the mediocre overclock, it didn't cost me a dime =)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I have done some dremel cutting in the past. I cut down a micro-atx case so that it would fit in a large backpack and basically traveled the world with it. I just have too many projects. I'm supposed to be fitting fiberglass fairings on my bike and a bi-xenon projector!
> 
> Also my sister has my old 1055t rig, and I just found an 1100t with an h70 dual fan liquid cooling sys on the bay for $120!! Gonna hook her up and sell her chip...Btw I sold my 1090t for $145 which means my fx-8320 was free so even with the mediocre overclock, it didn't cost me a dime =)


Except for the massive power consumption.


----------



## dmnclocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> All comes down to the rest of the fan setup. If you have proper positive pressure I would say vented slot covers. Negative pressure is closed.
> I even taped it off completely once when I did a negative pressure setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would say do it!


I have 3 intake fans and 3 exhaust fans on cooler master elite 430 case.


----------



## dmnclocker

So i managed to get a stable oc at 4.4 Ghz..My cpu volt was 1.393750 and my cpu/nb was 1.281250 volt.I ran the prime full custom test for 3 hrs and it was stable,but i'm really concerned because my temps got up to 60*.Should i try to stick with a 4.3 oc and see if i can get lower temps until i can get better cooling?


----------



## Kynes

Awesome Guide! Thanks +Rep

Pretty happy with my results.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> I have 3 intake fans and 3 exhaust fans on cooler master elite 430 case.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> So i managed to get a stable oc at 4.4 Ghz..My cpu volt was 1.393750 and my cpu/nb was 1.281250 volt.I ran the prime full custom test for 3 hrs and it was stable,but i'm really concerned because my temps got up to 60*.Should i try to stick with a 4.3 oc and see if i can get lower temps until i can get better cooling?


How are the fans setup? 3 in 3 out... Where are which? Its best to have more intake airflow then exhaust to make positive pressure so the dust income is reduced.

Which temp did get up to 60c? You need to be more precise. Is that socket or core temp? And with daily use it will not get to the temp prime takes it to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kynes*
> 
> Awesome Guide! Thanks +Rep
> 
> Pretty happy with my results.


Nice volts for that clock.
Is it stable? How did you test? Overnight blend?


----------



## Kynes

Quote:


> Nice volts for that clock.
> Is it stable? How did you test? Overnight blend?


Yep stable. Did 8 hours of Prime95 custom 75% of ram.

Only thing that sucks is I'm at my thermal limit core hit 65C and socket hit 76C at one point during the test. Not a bad CPU did 4.6 at stock volts of 1.3 and was all the way up to 4.9 with 1.38V No BSOD"S or crashes etc just failed workers through the testing.

I'm gonna look into getting a better Rad and Fans like some Gentle Typhoon's.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kynes*
> 
> Yep stable. Did 8 hours of Prime95 custom 75% of ram.
> 
> Only thing that sucks is I'm at my thermal limit core hit 65C and socket hit 76C at one point during the test. Not a bad CPU did 4.6 at stock volts of 1.3 and was all the way up to 4.9 with 1.38V No BSOD"S or crashes etc just failed workers through the testing.
> 
> I'm gonna look into getting a better Rad and Fans like some Gentle Typhoon's.


Yeah these chips put out some serious heat








Nice results non the less.

When I first got the chip I had expected my h100 to take it up pretty high because it cooled my Phenom 955 at 4.0ghz way below max temps.
But 8 vs 4 cores is another world.


----------



## swnny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kynes*
> 
> Yep stable. Did 8 hours of Prime95 custom 75% of ram.
> 
> Only thing that sucks is I'm at my thermal limit core hit 65C and socket hit 76C at one point during the test. Not a bad CPU did 4.6 at stock volts of 1.3 and was all the way up to 4.9 with 1.38V No BSOD"S or crashes etc just failed workers through the testing.
> 
> I'm gonna look into getting a better Rad and Fans like some Gentle Typhoon's.


Really impressive results! Care to tell us what is your chip's vid?


----------



## dmnclocker

Sorry for the lack of details.I have 6 fans in case 1 front(intake) 69 cfm,one bottom(intake) 69 cfm,side(intake) 82 cfm,back(exhaust) 82 cfm,two top fans(exhaust)82 cfm.they are all 120 mm.Here is the case airflow diagram http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower/elite-430-black.html The temp of 60c was the core temp.


----------



## Kynes

Quote:


> Really impressive results! Care to tell us what is your chip's vid?


BIOS Screenshots


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> Sorry for the lack of details.I have 6 fans in case 1 front(intake) 69 cfm,one bottom(intake) 69 cfm,side(intake) 82 cfm,back(exhaust) 82 cfm,two top fans(exhaust)82 cfm.they are all 120 mm.Here is the case airflow diagram http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/case/mid-tower/elite-430-black.html The temp of 60c was the core temp.


I would switch around the front and bottom fans with the two top fans. So that the front and bottom are 82 cfm intake and the top is dual 62 cfm exhaust.
That would give positive pressure.

As your core is 60c you are indeed nearing the max your cooling can handle. But as long as you stay at 62c or lower when stressing the system you should be good.
I can still advice you to put an extra intake fan at the right side panel so it blows cold air to the backside of the cpu. 80-120mm should do it.


----------



## dmnclocker

Thanks for reply. I plan on getting all 82 cfm fans and replace the 69 cfm ones, that would be better?


----------



## madmanmarz

Alrighttt so I put the system back together and temps are WAY down, although I have not overvolted/clocked the GPU yet.

There was a TON of air in the cooling system so I cannot directly attribute the change to any of the upgrades. Anyway, so I cut a hole and installed a 120mm fan behind the cpu, as well as an 80mm blowing onto the socket/vrms from the front. put in new fans for the radiators and sealed them with silicone. Hopefully the 7850 runs a little cooler as well which should all contribute. I took pics so standby for those.

I am going to go back and see what stock vid is, see how far I can overclock with that, go from there and post the results, but first I'm going to oc the GPU to make sure temps are where they should normally be.
UPDATE: THIS 7850 IS AN ANIMAL!! 1225 vcore, 1275 core, 1550 memory, 43c load, fans on low, no CPU o/c. It was running some tests okay at 1320/1600mhz. Stock is 860/1200.

EDIT: Son of a !!! Apparently I had the TPU switch on this whole time, I thought it was off because it was slid away from the words TPU, but the LED light was on. No wonder the board would take forever to post sometimes. Ahhhh

Righ now with everything set to auto, in CPU-Z I see 3500mhz, 200mhz bus, 17.5 multi, 1.35-1.38v, 2400mhz fsb, 2200mhz nb.

Gonna set vcore to 1.38 or so and see what it maxes out at, I'm not hoping for much here but maybe the throttling will go away at least. Temps are way the F* down, BTW. Idle is showing 16c, gpu is at 30c and fans are on low.

Last update...welllll it wasn't enough. stock voltage ~1.375 passed prime at 4200mhz for 10-15 mins, more than that = crash, 4500 required 1.5+v and temps got into the 60s, so I gave up. Back to the same settings as before but running cooler, quieter, and a nice graphics oc. In the future I am going to take off the small 120mm rad and put a 200mm rad on the top fan and call it a day. Maybe upgrade to a 8350 when it's cheap enough and hope I get a good one.


----------



## madmanmarz

Just want to add that those front/rear fan dropped socket temps from about 15* above core temps to about 5* above.
For those that asked for pics...






Not pretty but it works.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Alrighttt so I put the system back together and temps are WAY down, although I have not overvolted/clocked the GPU yet.
> 
> There was a TON of air in the cooling system so I cannot directly attribute the change to any of the upgrades. Anyway, so I cut a hole and installed a 120mm fan behind the cpu, as well as an 80mm blowing onto the socket/vrms from the front. put in new fans for the radiators and sealed them with silicone. Hopefully the 7850 runs a little cooler as well which should all contribute. I took pics so standby for those.
> 
> I am going to go back and see what stock vid is, see how far I can overclock with that, go from there and post the results, but first I'm going to oc the GPU to make sure temps are where they should normally be.
> UPDATE: THIS 7850 IS AN ANIMAL!! 1225 vcore, 1275 core, 1550 memory, 43c load, fans on low, no CPU o/c. It was running some tests okay at 1320/1600mhz. Stock is 860/1200.
> 
> EDIT: Son of a !!! Apparently I had the TPU switch on this whole time, I thought it was off because it was slid away from the words TPU, but the LED light was on. No wonder the board would take forever to post sometimes. Ahhhh
> 
> Righ now with everything set to auto, in CPU-Z I see 3500mhz, 200mhz bus, 17.5 multi, 1.35-1.38v, 2400mhz fsb, 2200mhz nb.
> 
> Gonna set vcore to 1.38 or so and see what it maxes out at, I'm not hoping for much here but maybe the throttling will go away at least. Temps are way the F* down, BTW. Idle is showing 16c, gpu is at 30c and fans are on low.
> 
> Last update...welllll it wasn't enough. stock voltage ~1.375 passed prime at 4200mhz for 10-15 mins, more than that = crash, 4500 required 1.5+v and temps got into the 60s, so I gave up. Back to the same settings as before but running cooler, quieter, and a nice graphics oc. In the future I am going to take off the small 120mm rad and put a 200mm rad on the top fan and call it a day. Maybe upgrade to a 8350 when it's cheap enough and hope I get a good one.


Still I really wouldn't sandwich radiators...

But you did a nice with the cooling upgrade on the socket and vrms.
It's probably just the chips limits.

Nice clock on the gpu btw. Makes me want to put my 7950 under water







. Mine does 1150 core with 1.168v @ around 70c.
Would be beast if I could cool it with 1.25v.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Still I really wouldn't sandwich radiators...
> 
> But you did a nice with the cooling upgrade on the socket and vrms.
> It's probably just the chips limits.
> 
> Nice clock on the gpu btw. Makes me want to put my 7950 under water
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Mine does 1150 core with 1.168v @ around 70c.
> Would be beast if I could cool it with 1.25v.


Yeah gonna get rid of that other small rad in the near future.
Supposedly you can go to 1.3v on the 7850 with a bios flash but I'm pretty happy with 1200/1500 and how cool it's running. Maybe I'll flash once I put that 200mm rad on top.

Water on the GPU is the way to go, ****ers are too loud with stock coolers and the temps will be wayyy lower with water. I really recommend these generic GPU blocks (like the MCW80). I had a full block for my old HD 2900 pro and ever since then I have been using this and it has seen like 3 or 4 different cards. It's not worth spending $100 or more every time for a new block. Hell I'm even using the same old little copper heatsinks!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Yeah gonna get rid of that other small rad in the near future.
> Supposedly you can go to 1.3v on the 7850 with a bios flash but I'm pretty happy with 1200/1500 and how cool it's running. Maybe I'll flash once I put that 200mm rad on top.
> 
> Water on the GPU is the way to go, ****ers are too loud with stock coolers and the temps will be wayyy lower with water. I really recommend these generic GPU blocks (like the MCW80). I had a full block for my old HD 2900 pro and ever since then I have been using this and it has seen like 3 or 4 different cards. It's not worth spending $100 or more every time for a new block. Hell I'm even using the same old little copper heatsinks!


Yeah I know. That sinks you have on the ram chips are proper. Enzotech right? That's epic quality copper. The vrm's could use better cooling, but then again the 7850 isn't pulling that much power through them. Care to share a heaven 4.0 run? At extreme preset. Would like to compare your 1200 against my 1150.

But the cooling on the vapor-x is good. Its not that loud at all.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah I know. That sinks you have on the ram chips are proper. Enzotech right? That's epic quality copper. The vrm's could use better cooling, but then again the 7850 isn't pulling that much power through them. Care to share a heaven 4.0 run? At extreme preset. Would like to compare your 1200 against my 1150.
> 
> But the cooling on the vapor-x is good. Its not that loud at all.


Sure, DLing now.

Okay I got a 914, and 918. Tessellation set to application controlled / AMD optimized respectively.


----------



## taeness

is this applicable to gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Sure, DLing now.
> 
> Okay I got a 914, and 918. Tessellation set to application controlled / AMD optimized respectively.


Don't mess with the amd settings







. I use AMD optimized mostly.

Here's a run from me at 950 core 1250 mem(stock boost clock), extreme preset.


I have several runs at various overclocks.

This one is at 950 core 1500 mem to show memory boost, small.

* note the other cpu used, my old one. But that doesn't make much difference with this benchmark.

Overclock I use for most games.
1100 core 1250 mem.


And my max overclock for daily use while playing heavy games.
1150 core 1500 mem.


So yours is pretty bad ass for an 7850 IMO.
You can use the Windows snipping tool to make these shots btw. Handy tool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taeness*
> 
> is this applicable to gigabyte 990fxa-ud3 rev 4?


Sure.
Its a general guide.

You wouldn't find all the settings mentioned in this thread and maybe some are not mentioned that you have.
But overall you should be able to get pretty far following this guide.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Don't mess with the amd settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I use AMD optimized mostly.
> 
> Here's a run from me at 950 core 1250 mem(stock boost clock), extreme preset.
> 
> 
> I have several runs at various overclocks.
> 
> This one is at 950 core 1500 mem to show memory boost, small.
> 
> * note the other cpu used, my old one. But that doesn't make much difference with this benchmark.
> 
> Overclock I use for most games.
> 1100 core 1250 mem.
> 
> 
> And my max overclock for daily use while playing heavy games.
> 1150 core 1500 mem.
> 
> 
> So yours is pretty bad ass for an 7850 IMO.
> You can use the Windows snipping tool to make these shots btw. Handy tool.
> Sure.
> Its a general guide.
> 
> You wouldn't find all the settings mentioned in this thread and maybe some are not mentioned that you have.
> But overall you should be able to get pretty far following this guide.


Weres 1080p O.O


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Weres 1080p O.O


extreme preset


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> extreme preset


you can do extreme at 1080p


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> you can do extreme at 1080p


Not using the extreme preset. With custom it lets me (I have the free version if it matters)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> you can do extreme at 1080p


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Not using the extreme preset. With custom it lets me (I have the free version if it matters)


What does it matter?
I use one setting to compare various clocks on the card.
Hell i can even use the lowest settings. As long as they are the same with each test.

I use it for myself, not for competing.


----------



## Deadboy90

Hey guys I'm getting throttling with my m5a97 evo board when socket temps hit 60c. I already have the stock heatsink fan blowing on my vrms but the moment socket hits 60c BOOM, cores start cycling down to 1.4ghz. Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> Hey guys I'm getting throttling with my m5a97 evo board when socket temps hit 60c. I already have the stock heatsink fan blowing on my vrms but the moment socket hits 60c BOOM, cores start cycling down to 1.4ghz. Any help would be appreciated.


Clocks, volts, cooling etc. Thx


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> Hey guys I'm getting throttling with my m5a97 evo board when socket temps hit 60c. I already have the stock heatsink fan blowing on my vrms but the moment socket hits 60c BOOM, cores start cycling down to 1.4ghz. Any help would be appreciated.


Should be HPC Mode enabled to prevent it from throttling that low.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> Hey guys I'm getting throttling with my m5a97 evo board when socket temps hit 60c. I already have the stock heatsink fan blowing on my vrms but the moment socket hits 60c BOOM, cores start cycling down to 1.4ghz. Any help would be appreciated.


HPC mode enabled, and make sure that the TPU/EPU switches are in the off position (red light should be off).
Also make sure all the CPU and other power saving features are disabled during testing and that you're on the latest BIOS.

I would say that it's also important to get some air over/around the CPU socket as well as the VRM's and a fan behind the board definitely helps.
If all that doesn't work then lighten up on all the LLC stuff. You may require slightly more voltage because of vdroop, but you'll have less throttling in my experience with LLC on high/ optimized phase control, etc. Basically none of the extreme settings.

After doing all that I noticed no throttling after 3 hours of prime95 and my temps were right at the limit. I strongly believe socket temps have a lot to do with it so if your socket temps are much higher than coretemp then it's something to look at.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Right guys, I have a dilema, I have an asus m5a99x evo r 2.0 motherboard, fx6300 cpu, 8gb gskills 1600mhz ram with a hd5770 gpu,

Im upgrading another pc from an athlon with my fx6300 and the other 5770 i had in crossfire, and memory,

due to the 2 pci-e slots running at x8 in crossfire when i drop down to 1 5770 I cant notice any difference or major loss in fps on battlefield 3, and i will be upgrading my gpu at a later date anyway

the other pc could benefit from better memory but I could also benefit from a ssd

do I upgrade the cpu in mine to an fx8350, or a fx 6350 or fx8320 with a solid state drive?

80GB OCZ Vertex 2 SATA II 2.5-inch Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - £35.99 inc. VAT
AMD (Piledriver) FX-8320 3.50GHz (4.00GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 8-Core Processor - £113.10 inc. VAT
Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800 C9 1600MHz Single Module £29.99 inc. VAT

or

AMD (Piledriver) FX-8320 3.50GHz (4.00GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 8-Core Processor - £113.10 inc. VAT
8GB (2x4GB) Patriot Viper 3 Black Mamba 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Dual/Quad Channel Kit [PV38G160C9K] £65.99 inc. VAT

or

AMD (Piledriver) FX-6300 3.50GHz (4.10GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 6-Core Processor - £82.79 inc. VAT
8GB (2x4GB) Patriot Viper 3 Black Mamba 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Dual/Quad Channel Kit [PV38G160C9K] £65.99 inc. VAT
OCZ Agility 2 60GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (SSD) - £33.59 inc. VAT

or finally

AMD (Piledriver) FX-8350 4.00GHz (4.20GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 8-Core Processor - £142.79 inc. VAT
Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800 C9 1600MHz Single Module £29.99 inc. VAT


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Clocks, volts, cooling etc. Thx


4.5 ghz
1.46v
Corsair h80i
Core temps don't exceed 45c but the sockets are throttling at 60c


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> 4.5 ghz
> 1.46v
> Corsair h80i
> Core temps don't exceed 45c but the sockets are throttling at 60c


That doesnt seem right, shouldnt be throttling at that temp, just a thought, what os you running


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> That doesnt seem right, shouldnt be throttling at that temp, just a thought, what os you running


Windows 7. And triple checked, all the power saving features are off and hpc is enabled.


----------



## Deadboy90

Here's a shot of my throttling.



once it hits 60c the cores begin to cycle.


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> 4.5 ghz
> 1.46v
> Corsair h80i
> Core temps don't exceed 45c but the sockets are throttling at 60c


Somethings definitely not right here. I have the same exact board and a FX 8350 @4.8GHz 1.475v and i don't get throttling when running wPrime95 blend for 2hrs. Could you take a screenshot of the BIOs


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Somethings definitely not right here. I have the same exact board and a FX 8350 @4.8GHz 1.475v and i don't get throttling when running wPrime95 blend for 2hrs. Could you take a screenshot of the BIOs


I was in the same boat; 1.45v-1.475, ~4.4-4.5 ghz, throttling when approaching 60c. Double check everything I listed. BTW when your core temps are 60c what is your socket temp? Make sure you have the latest bios, and that your power options are set to performance in windows. I have read somewhere else that some boards mess up and you have to disable HPC so you could always try that. What's your ambient temp?


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Somethings definitely not right here. I have the same exact board and a FX 8350 @4.8GHz 1.475v and i don't get throttling when running wPrime95 blend for 2hrs. Could you take a screenshot of the BIOs


Sure but it will have to wait till tommarow, I gotta get to bed. I can tell you that my settings all mirror those reccomended on the first post of this thread though.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Right guys, I have a dilema, I have an asus m5a99x evo r 2.0 motherboard, fx6300 cpu, 8gb gskills 1600mhz ram with a hd5770 gpu,
> 
> Im upgrading another pc from an athlon with my fx6300 and the other 5770 i had in crossfire, and memory,
> 
> due to the 2 pci-e slots running at x8 in crossfire when i drop down to 1 5770 I cant notice any difference or major loss in fps on battlefield 3, and i will be upgrading my gpu at a later date anyway
> 
> the other pc could benefit from better memory but I could also benefit from a ssd
> 
> do I upgrade the cpu in mine to an fx8350, or a fx 6350 or fx8320 with a solid state drive?
> 
> 80GB OCZ Vertex 2 SATA II 2.5-inch Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - £35.99 inc. VAT
> AMD (Piledriver) FX-8320 3.50GHz (4.00GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 8-Core Processor - £113.10 inc. VAT
> Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800 C9 1600MHz Single Module £29.99 inc. VAT
> 
> or
> 
> AMD (Piledriver) FX-8320 3.50GHz (4.00GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 8-Core Processor - £113.10 inc. VAT
> 8GB (2x4GB) Patriot Viper 3 Black Mamba 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Dual/Quad Channel Kit [PV38G160C9K] £65.99 inc. VAT
> 
> or
> 
> AMD (Piledriver) FX-6300 3.50GHz (4.10GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 6-Core Processor - £82.79 inc. VAT
> 8GB (2x4GB) Patriot Viper 3 Black Mamba 1600MHz CL9 DDR3 Dual/Quad Channel Kit [PV38G160C9K] £65.99 inc. VAT
> OCZ Agility 2 60GB 2.5" Solid State Drive (SSD) - £33.59 inc. VAT
> 
> or finally
> 
> AMD (Piledriver) FX-8350 4.00GHz (4.20GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 8-Core Processor - £142.79 inc. VAT
> Crucial Ballistix Sport 4GB (1x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800 C9 1600MHz Single Module £29.99 inc. VAT


You're your own man. Why do you want 2 gaming PC's? I would sell the 5770's and get a single better card. There are good deals right now. xfire sucks. I used to have 5770's in crossfire and I must say I was much happier with a single 6850, although there was a big difference (and yes they were effectively 8x/8x slots) going from a single 5770 to two.

Maybe start another thread with a simple list of what's in your main pc, your 2nd pc and what you expect to do with them.


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I was in the same boat; 1.45v-1.475, ~4.4-4.5 ghz, throttling when approaching 60c. Double check everything I listed. BTW when your core temps are 60c what is your socket temp? Make sure you have the latest bios, and that your power options are set to performance in windows. I have read somewhere else that some boards mess up and you have to disable HPC so you could always try that. What's your ambient temp?


Triple checked all BIOS settings and its all just like what was reccomended. Socket temps are between 45-50 when the throttling hits and I do believe Im on the latest BIOS. Power options in Windows is at high performance and HPC is enabled, ill try disabling it tommarow but I'm not hopeful. Ambients are around 20c


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> Triple checked all BIOS settings and its all just like what was reccomended. Socket temps are between 45-50 when the throttling hits and I do believe Im on the latest BIOS. Power options in Windows is at high performance and HPC is enabled, ill try disabling it tommarow but I'm not hopeful. Ambients are around 20c


How are your socket temps (cpu temp), lower than coretemp? I ask because my throttling was kicking in hard when socket temps were over 70. I understand you have mirrored the settings you saw on the 1st post but try some of the softer llc/vrm settings like I recommended in my other post and try again. A few pics or screenshots of your bios would be fantastic as well.

Also I happened to come across a newer beta bios for this board. I haven't tried it yet as I have managed to overcome my throttling issues, but I might give it a shot and list my conclusions.


----------



## Deadboy90

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> How are your socket temps (cpu temp), lower than coretemp? I ask because my throttling was kicking in hard when socket temps were over 70. I understand you have mirrored the settings you saw on the 1st post but try some of the softer llc/vrm settings like I recommended in my other post and try again. A few pics or screenshots of your bios would be fantastic as well.


Crap I meant core temps are 45-50. Ill give it a shot tommarow. Nite all.

Just saw your edit, I would really appreciate that, thanks man.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deadboy90*
> 
> Crap I meant core temps are 45-50. Ill give it a shot tommarow. Nite all.
> 
> Just saw your edit, I would really appreciate that, thanks man.


Maybe this was asked already, I couldn't find it.

What is the temp of your vrm? I have seen that causing throttling for some guys.


----------



## DarthBaggins

This thread has helped me in OC'ing my 6100 tremendously, still having issues getting above 4.3GHz stable on an upgraded air cooler (NZXT Respire T40) but mainly just getting a crash error which I'm counting for I left something enabled that should be disabled and mismatch of voltage to clock also CPUto FSB ratio might be off. So I restarted and left it stable at 3.8GHz and it's idling around 14-19c







under load gaming only jumps close to 38c. Also feeling part of my issue is on my MoBo on my home rig, as my work rig is an Asus MoBo w/ a 4100 that I was able to use the CCC to auto tune to 4.7GHz and was stable, but that I dropped to 3.6-3.7Ghz just since it's not in a climate controlled area like my home rig, also it only has the NZXT Respire T20 on it and I took a shop fan and placed it on top of the case with the intake laying on an exhaust vent to suck the hot air out and it did really well w/ my doing that obviously, lol.







(and I know CCC Auto-tune is not the best way to OC, as bios allows more control)


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> This thread has helped me in OC'ing my 6100 tremendously, still having issues getting above 4.3GHz stable on an upgraded air cooler (NZXT Respire T40) but mainly just getting a crash error which I'm counting for I left something enabled that should be disabled and mismatch of voltage to clock also CPUto FSB ratio might be off. So I restarted and left it stable at 3.8GHz and it's idling around 14-19c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under load gaming only jumps close to 38c. Also feeling part of my issue is on my MoBo on my home rig, as my work rig is an Asus MoBo w/ a 4100 that I was able to use the CCC to auto tune to 4.7GHz and was stable, but that I dropped to 3.6-3.7Ghz just since it's not in a climate controlled area like my home rig, also it only has the NZXT Respire T20 on it and I took a shop fan and placed it on top of the case with the intake laying on an exhaust vent to suck the hot air out and it did really well w/ my doing that obviously, lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and I know CCC Auto-tune is not the best way to OC, as bios allows more control)


Your MB might not let you go too far past 4.3GHz im afraid. But I see you have invested more into graphics on this rig and to be honest I sometimes wish I'd done that.
What were your temps like when trying to stabilize at 4.3GHz? Your cooler seems to be somewhat similar to mine and I'd like to reach 4.3GHz. Got to 4GHz @ 59C socket before my PSU gave up and am now slowly growing crazy as I await for money for a nicer PSU.

Cheers and keep working on that 6-core Bulldozer brain of yours.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Your MB might not let you go too far past 4.3GHz im afraid. But I see you have invested more into graphics on this rig and to be honest I sometimes wish I'd done that.
> What were your temps like when trying to stabilize at 4.3GHz? Your cooler seems to be somewhat similar to mine and I'd like to reach 4.3GHz. Got to 4GHz @ 59C socket before my PSU gave up and am now slowly growing crazy as I await for money for a nicer PSU.
> 
> Cheers and keep working on that 6-core Bulldozer brain of yours.


What psu were you using?
Decent 650w should be plenty...

I am running a hx750 and it is eating out of its nose with my 8320 and 7950


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What psu were you using?
> Decent 650w should be plenty...
> 
> I am running a hx750 and it is eating out of its nose with my 8320 and 7950


Aerocool VP-750. Enough power, but not quite solid enough. Hoping to go for a CM V700 soon. Everyone says it's my best choice.


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Your MB might not let you go too far past 4.3GHz im afraid. But I see you have invested more into graphics on this rig and to be honest I sometimes wish I'd done that.
> What were your temps like when trying to stabilize at 4.3GHz? Your cooler seems to be somewhat similar to mine and I'd like to reach 4.3GHz. Got to 4GHz @ 59C socket before my PSU gave up and am now slowly growing crazy as I await for money for a nicer PSU.
> 
> Cheers and keep working on that 6-core Bulldozer brain of yours.


My temps from what I could see were around 25-30c at idle till I kicked up the other case fans and it dropped to 22c, I think I had a mismatch really as there was no method to the madness till I restarted the clocking to where it's at now. The reason for me going deeper into a better GPU was due to I mainly game and process photos on my home machine.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Aerocool VP-750. Enough power, but not quite solid enough. Hoping to go for a CM V700 soon. Everyone says it's my best choice.


Yep. That's a good choice.
Decent psu's.
The OEM brand of those are Seasonic.


----------



## DarthBaggins

I know I'll be upping PSU's once I decide to get a new mobo that can handle crossfire, was looking into the AX860i


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> I know I'll be upping PSU's once I decide to get a new mobo that can handle crossfire, was looking into the AX860i


WHOA STOP MAKING ME PUKE RAINBOWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## DarthBaggins

lmao, well I'll be selling the 7870 so I could get a 7970 or 2,







Also I don't think my TX650M will handle crossfire too well or will be close to maxed out so the need for a better PSU


----------



## Trinergy

Using Offset Voltage and Turbo

My 8350 can run at 4.7 GHz at 1.4375v when set to manual. However, when using offset it has to go up to 1.452v which cause CPU temps to reach 68 C and socket temps to reach 70.8 C. Both are set using LLC at Ultra. Does offset actually allow the CPU to use less volts when not at full load or is it just better to set manually. From the HWINFO64 screens it just sits at 1.452

I was also hoping to get 5 GHz on Turbo but I haven't figured out a way to make it do that. OCCT even with one thread keeps everything at 4.7 Ghz. If I set up turbo in Overdrive then I see it working. With the bios TURBO settings it hasn't really gone past the base clock of 4.7 GHz.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> You're your own man. Why do you want 2 gaming PC's? I would sell the 5770's and get a single better card. There are good deals right now. xfire sucks. I used to have 5770's in crossfire and I must say I was much happier with a single 6850, although there was a big difference (and yes they were effectively 8x/8x slots) going from a single 5770 to two.
> 
> Maybe start another thread with a simple list of what's in your main pc, your 2nd pc and what you expect to do with them.


I dont, the other is for a mate, it doesnt matter, went for the 8320 and an ssd in mine, the fx6300 in the other, he was running an athlon11 x3 450 with a hd6670 and wanted to play world of warcraft, so I sold him my hd5770 fx6300 and upgraded the psu from an oem 450w

ive just got to see what oc i can get with this 8320 now and update my gpu after xmas


----------



## madmanmarz

PSU upgrade was definitely smart. Personally I would have spent the money on an SSD if you don't already have one, and a better graphics card if you mostly game. Otherwise I hope you enjoy!

I decided to stop being a vagina and went ahead and upgraded my cooling system a bit =)




I got rid of a 120x30mm radiator, left a 120x60mm in the back and fit a Binfenix Spectre Pro 200mm fan on top with a Phobya Xtreme 200mm radiator. Time to overclock again!


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> PSU upgrade was definitely smart. Personally I would have spent the money on an SSD if you don't already have one, and a better graphics card if you mostly game. Otherwise I hope you enjoy!
> 
> I decided to stop being a vagina and went ahead and upgraded my cooling system a bit =)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got rid of a 120x30mm radiator, left a 120x60mm in the back and fit a Binfenix Spectre Pro 200mm fan on top with a Phobya Xtreme 200mm radiator. Time to overclock again!


I had to upgrade his psu, my machine now has an fx8320 currently oc at 4.6 but cant comment on stability, am prime testing to get max oc and about to test 4.7, a new ssd, the same hd 5770 as i couldnt budget for an upgrade just yet, a corsair tx850w psu non modular which sucks but scoring it for £50 was a bargain, 8gb gskills ripjaws 1600mhz ram on a m5a99x evo r2.0 board, runs bf4 beta with pretty good results so im not complaining, that was before i started overclocking today, windows boots easily faster due to the ssd unfortunately its almost full due to bf3 bf4 and a few other bits installed on it


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Right guys, it looks like my cooling is restricting me to 4.7 on my fx8320, one quick question, im running prime95 now to check stability and socket temp in hwmonitor is at a steady 70 degrees ive paused it for now, is it safe to run prime at that temp, core is around 56 but with socket being on the limit im a little dubious to run prime for 6+ hours on the limit


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarthBaggins*
> 
> lmao, well I'll be selling the 7870 so I could get a 7970 or 2,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also I don't think my TX650M will handle crossfire too well or will be close to maxed out so the need for a better PSU


And I hyave been thinking about selling my 550Ti's to get at least a 7870. Or I might see where the new series rebrands will be priced.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Right guys, it looks like my cooling is restricting me to 4.7 on my fx8320, one quick question, im running prime95 now to check stability and socket temp in hwmonitor is at a steady 70 degrees ive paused it for now, is it safe to run prime at that temp, core is around 56 but with socket being on the limit im a little dubious to run prime for 6+ hours on the limit


Do a 10-15 minute prime smallFFTs run. That should give you the max temp prime will get. If that is at 72c or lower you should be good.
That is, if you can keep ambient temps under control.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Do a 10-15 minute prime smallFFTs run. That should give you the max temp prime will get. If that is at 72c or lower you should be good.
> That is, if you can keep ambient temps under control.


Yeah have done it peaks at approx 71/72 degrees, didnt want to run it 8-12 hours on the limit though, cant afford to replace hardware till april 2014 now, ill just drop the oc a little to be on the safe side, then when i can afford a custom loop see what i can max this chip at, either that or check the tim and maybe put the third fan on to the sb-e extreme cooler instead of just drawing air into the case


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Yeah have done it peaks at approx 71/72 degrees, didnt want to run it 8-12 hours on the limit though, cant afford to replace hardware till april 2014 now, ill just drop the oc a little to be on the safe side, then when i can afford a custom loop see what i can max this chip at, either that or check the tim and maybe put the third fan on to the sb-e extreme cooler instead of just drawing air into the case


I say go for it. 3 fans on that sink work wonders. You have the thermalright fans on it?


----------



## DarthBaggins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> And I hyave been thinking about selling my 550Ti's to get at least a 7870. Or I might see where the new series rebrands will be priced.


I love my 7870 Asus did a good job on their model, especially since I came from an XFX Ghost Series HD7750


----------



## madmanmarz

Alright guys I'm on my last attempt for ****s and giggles. Sandwiched the 200mm radiator between Spectre Pro 200mm fans (all fans are sealed with silicon to the rads), I got a beta bios, and pumped the voltage to 1.55v, although only 1.512 at load with vdroop from LLC on high. Clocks are @ 4628 from 4400. Right now I'm at max socket temp 68, core 58. If it passes 10 minutes I'm gonna keep bumping up the multi until it doesn't, bump it back down a notch and stress over night. Already things are looking a little better with my new cooling setup. Wish I would've put a reservoir in before testing but F it.

Note: 10 mins blend OK @ ~4600. Somehow I have a strong feeling this will be my limit, although I would be very happy with that.

Edit: Welp nothing worked @ 225x21. Tried ultra high llc and 1.55v, upped the vddc, cpu 140%, etc. Gonna stress 225x20.5 @1.512 overnight. Heh I hope it's not a .5 multi thing...noticed my last multi was 19.5. I've seen s*** like that before on Athlon 64 I think.

One other note: The big rad is doing a fantastic job; the air exiting is much hotter out of the 200x45mm than the 120x60mm. Definitely gonna stick to big/wide rads from here on in, plus these Spectre Pros are really quiet and push tons of air. The 120mm is more of a support rad at this point for testing...its fans blow hard and loud at max temps to keep things under 60c, but the rig has hardly reached over 40c without stressing. GPU temps are down too.

Edit2: Well it was close; I went back to ultra llc and ~ 1.525v. Max coretemp is around 62 but dips higher here and there on prime. Not sure if the extra 200 odd mhz is worth the extra heat and voltage but I'll try it for a while. Back to believing this one is just a crappy chip. Anyway, @ 3hrs prime now.


----------



## itomic

Why this Asus boards ( i have Sabertooth ) have such high socket temps ?? I have much higher then i had with same CPU and settings on my UD5 !!


----------



## Sebastian77

Thank you for that topic. Doing step by step i'm at 5.1 Ghz with my fx 8350!! Great thank you again.


----------



## waveaddict

Looking to set my AI & advanced settings back as I'm good with my OC.6100 @ 4.4 using multi.What settings do I want to enable?

Ai overclock tuner back to auto?
Do I enable Turbo?
C & Q
C6 state
C1E
HPC
Amp Master Mode
CPU/NB freq. @ 2400
HT link speed @ 2400
CPU NB voltage manual mode or offset

what should I expect when enabling these back?or do I even have to?


----------



## VBoOmeRanGV

Should say in the original post about all this


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I say go for it. 3 fans on that sink work wonders. You have the thermalright fans on it?


Sorry for late responce been struggling with my knee, had surgery back in july to fix a nasty fractured tibia and just had brace removed so been unable to get on pc, yeah got ty-143's so the extreme fans, sounds like a jet engine ready for take off if i let em max out haha, just need to get to pc and pick up two clips and some rubber to add third fan, ive got it stable and with my hd 5770 at stock im able to run bf4 beta at least, not had chance to join a server with a fair few in as not had much time and its uncomfy but it runs it and until i can afford a new gpu it will do lol


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Looking to set my AI & advanced settings back as I'm good with my OC.6100 @ 4.4 using multi.What settings do I want to enable?
> 
> Ai overclock tuner back to auto?
> Do I enable Turbo?
> C & Q
> C6 state
> C1E
> HPC
> Amp Master Mode
> CPU/NB freq. @ 2400
> HT link speed @ 2400
> CPU NB voltage manual mode or offset
> 
> what should I expect when enabling these back?or do I even have to?


Its the energy saving settings your thinking of right? Check the original guide, read it and read it again, it will tell you what you can enable when stable, and you will expect it to clock down when it doesnt need the full oc, saving power and putting less strain on your cpu, but if its stable enough and your temps are good it should run sweet for a good while anyway


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Sorry for late responce been struggling with my knee, had surgery back in july to fix a nasty fractured tibia and just had brace removed so been unable to get on pc, yeah got ty-143's so the extreme fans, sounds like a jet engine ready for take off if i let em max out haha, just need to get to pc and pick up two clips and some rubber to add third fan, ive got it stable and with my hd 5770 at stock im able to run bf4 beta at least, not had chance to join a server with a fair few in as not had much time and its uncomfy but it runs it and until i can afford a new gpu it will do lol


Can you post back the results after you managed to attach the third fan to that sucker?









If I were you I would wait for the new AMD cards to drop and see how the price drops are.
Reading the rumors the new 280x cards will be tweaked 7970's so that is a no go.
But the 290/290x cards are a different story.


----------



## VBoOmeRanGV

Thanks for this, it allowed me to get my FX8350 / Sabertooth 990FX Rev 2 stable at 4.6GHz
I think mainly turning the LLC up to mostly max helped a lot.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Alright, so I've been trying to overclock some with the FSB instead of multiplier mostly for funsies and here's my result:
AMD FX-8350 4.77GHz x19.0/250 / HT Link: *2759*MHz / Northbridge: *2508*MHz
Corsair 8GB CL8 *@1672*MHz VENGEANCE
Asus SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0

Although, this is without Turbo activated due to I actually don't understand the FSB overclock section on here.
I'm usually pretty good to read between lines, but for some reason(~bunch of beers) I just don't.

So guys; Is it worth just keeping it like I have it right now or is it more worth going with Turbo activated?
These specs are fully stable so I don't really know if Turbo is necessary.

What do you think guys?

Edit: one thing I was wondering about; How does FSB overclocking also increase single thread performance? towards overclocking via multiplier I mean.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Edit: one thing I was wondering about; How does FSB overclocking also increase single thread performance? towards overclocking via multiplier I mean.


Did you run a benchmark on the multiplier OC? If so, you could run one again on the FSB overclock and see how single threaded has changed. If no, you could look up a similar OC on multiplier and compare. Anyway, run a benchmark that tests single threaded performance.

Got a new PSU. Gonna find the thermal limit of my chip (highest so far 4GHz @ 59C socket). Once that's done, who knows, might try FSB too. Seems much more complicated though... But should keep me entertained for a while.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Its the energy saving settings your thinking of right? Check the original guide, read it and read it again, it will tell you what you can enable when stable, and you will expect it to clock down when it doesnt need the full oc, saving power and putting less strain on your cpu, but if its stable enough and your temps are good it should run sweet for a good while anyway


I see and understand the advanced settings,thanks.Will enabling Turbo & setting Ai tuner back to auto only give me 4.4 at load and back down to 3.3 at idle?
If that's the case maybe I should go higher


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Did you run a benchmark on the multiplier OC? If so, you could run one again on the FSB overclock and see how single threaded has changed. If no, you could look up a similar OC on multiplier and compare. Anyway, run a benchmark that tests single threaded performance.
> 
> Got a new PSU. Gonna find the thermal limit of my chip (highest so far 4GHz @ 59C socket). Once that's done, who knows, might try FSB too. Seems much more complicated though... But should keep me entertained for a while.


Well... That was not my question. I wondered HOW does overclocking with FSB also increase single thread performance when it doesn't for multiplier overclocking.


----------



## aas88keyz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Did you run a benchmark on the multiplier OC? If so, you could run one again on the FSB overclock and see how single threaded has changed. If no, you could look up a similar OC on multiplier and compare. Anyway, run a benchmark that tests single threaded performance.
> 
> Got a new PSU. Gonna find the thermal limit of my chip (highest so far 4GHz @ 59C socket). Once that's done, who knows, might try FSB too. Seems much more complicated though... But should keep me entertained for a while.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well... That was not my question. I wondered HOW does overclocking with FSB also increase single thread performance when it doesn't for multiplier overclocking.
Click to expand...

Quick answer cause I gotta go but when you increase FSB you increase frequencies across the board. When you just increase the Multiplier and bus FSB is not changed frequencies will stay the same unless you manually change them too. This could be too obvious of an answer and I have a feeling you are asking something else but just throwing it out there. If you need a different answer please clarify the question.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> I see and understand the advanced settings,thanks.Will enabling Turbo & setting Ai tuner back to auto only give me 4.4 at load and back down to 3.3 at idle?
> If that's the case maybe I should go higher


Re eanbling turbo is not a good idea when you have overclocked using the multiplier, ai settings are in the suite software that came with the board right? Ive only ever overclocked with ai suite once and now my fsb sticks at 200.67 and nothing i do will change it back to 200, dont want to take the battery out as i have 3 different stable clocks saved in bios, if im misreading your post please clarify, i originally thought you had used just the bios to oc


----------



## madmanmarz

I think you're confusing things. Here are two different ways to achieve 4000mhz (4ghz)

FSB SPEED CPU MULTI CPU SPEED
200mhz x 20 = 4000mhz

250mhz x 16 = 4000mhz

4000mhz is 4000mhz any way you make it happen. There is no increase in single threaded performance one way or the other. Your single threaded performance increases from stock speeds because you are increasing the clock speed from stock (3000mhz vs 4000mhz for example).

What changes are the clock speeds of the ht,nb and ram, because those also have multipliers which are tied to the fsb. Using the previous examples, watch what happens with the ram, and ht/nb link speeds

FSB HTT MULTI HTT SPEED NB MULTI NB SPEED RAM MULTI RAM SPEED
200mhz 12 = 2400mhz 12 2400mhz 8 1600mhz

250mhz 12 = 3000mhz 12 3000mhz 8 2000mhz

Note that your motherboard probably has 1333/1600/1833 etc instead of the actual multiplier, but it works the same way. If you set ram to 1600, but you increase your fsb, your ram will not be at 1600, it will increase, and your bios will usually let you know what that new effective speed will be (so you can play with the numbers all you want to see what you get, just don't hit f10 till you're ready).

It is because of this, that you usually must lower your multipliers when increasing your FSB speed. You can use whatever combinations of FSB/multi to make this happen, but if you want to do this, you would want to figure out your max speeds in every category (first test max FSB speed with everything else lowered, then CPU with everything else lowered... RAM, HTT, NB, etc). Once you know what is stable, then you can just use whatever combinations you want (play with the numbers basically) as long as you don't go over what you tested stable. Of course raising clock speeds for any of these items, usually will require an increase in voltage for the appropriate item you're overclocking.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Well... That was not my question. I wondered HOW does overclocking with FSB also increase single thread performance when it doesn't for multiplier overclocking.


Single threaded performance DOES increase with multiplier overclocking. I think you're confusing things. Here are two different ways to achieve 4000mhz (4ghz)

FSB SPEED CPU MULTI CPU SPEED
200mhz x 20 = 4000mhz

250mhz x 16 = 4000mhz

(sorry, about the editing, the spaces don't show up for my tables)

4000mhz is 4000mhz any way you make it happen. There is no increase in single threaded performance one way or the other. Your single threaded performance increases from stock speeds because you are increasing the clock speed from stock (3000mhz vs 4000mhz for example).

What changes are the clock speeds of the ht,nb and ram, because those also have multipliers which are tied to the fsb. Using the previous examples, watch what happens with the ram, and ht/nb link speeds. Note that the FSB is multiplied by the appropriate multiplier to achieve the clock speed in each case.

FSB HTT MULTI HTT SPEED NB MULTI NB SPEED RAM MULTI RAM SPEED
200mhz x 12 = 2400mhz 12 2400mhz 8 1600mhz

250mhz x 12 = 3000mhz 12 3000mhz 8 2000mhz

Note that your motherboard probably has 1333/1600/1833 etc instead of the actual multiplier, but it works the same way. If you set ram to 1600, but you increase your fsb, your ram will not be at 1600, it will increase, and your bios will usually let you know what that new effective speed will be (so you can play with the numbers all you want to see what you get, just don't hit f10 till you're ready).

It is because of this, that you usually must lower your multipliers when increasing your FSB speed. You can use whatever combinations of FSB/multi to make this happen, but if you want to do this, you would want to figure out your max speeds in every category (first test max FSB speed with everything else lowered, then CPU with everything else lowered... RAM, HTT, NB, etc). Once you know what is stable, then you can just use whatever combinations you want (play with the numbers basically) as long as you don't go over what you tested stable. Of course raising clock speeds for any of these items, usually will require an increase in voltage for the appropriate item you're overclocking.

Last note: Turbo overclocking is not something you want to get into until you understand these basics. Most people do not use turbo to overclock (they disable it) because it can behave in strange/unpredictable ways. Read the notes on turbo overclocking and you will see they are more of an alternate overclocking method, or maybe it's useful for someone wanting to do a moderate overclock. Regardless, your best bet is to disable turbo, and then enable cool and quiet and c1e once your overclock is stable. Then set your power options to balanced and your computa will underclock when it's idle.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amd-pcmarlow*
> 
> Re eanbling turbo is not a good idea when you have overclocked using the multiplier, ai settings are in the suite software that came with the board right? Ive only ever overclocked with ai suite once and now my fsb sticks at 200.67 and nothing i do will change it back to 200, dont want to take the battery out as i have 3 different stable clocks saved in bios, if im misreading your post please clarify, i originally thought you had used just the bios to oc


Thanks for the reply,I've only OC'd using the bios,not Ai suite and by this guide.So I should leave Turbo disabled and enable the required power saving options in advanced settings?
Just want to get the same performance while having a higher clock speed and save some power.Is this right or am I seeing this wrong?


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Thanks for the reply,I've only OC'd using the bios,not Ai suite and by this guide.So I should leave Turbo disabled and enable the required power saving options in advanced settings?
> Just want to get the same performance while having a higher clock speed and save some power.Is this right or am I seeing this wrong?


Yeah just the power saving functions, the turbo is when you overclock and want extra, most have issues with it though


----------



## no1carez

Hey there Ladies and Germs...

I need to know what you all need to best advise me, given the following scenario:

1) Hardware:


motherboard: asus m5a97 le r2.0
CPU: 8320
Cooling: Zalman LQ-310
RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB DDR3 1866
2) Preconditions:

First, I used the AI software to automagically raise the processor speed to "Extreme", and all looked awesome at 4.150 GHz. What began to annoy me was the running of my BOINC client, and the entire system locking up. I ended up having to set it to "Turbo" in the auto software to get some stability.

Second, I found this guide--and here is where I think I created a problem for myself--and I jumped right in to begin changing settings in BIOS. I did not *start* from an "unaltered" set of BIOS settings...."stock" as I see it used here.

What I'm saying is: I started making bios overclocking settings, and my VCore starting point was something like 1.4250.

3) I'm reading here that some boards have different options from the "standard" established in the post establishing this thread. My board's BIOS seems to be "missing" the options for the 3 or 4 different percentage (%) settings.

*** What do I wanna do with this rig? ***

First: My ultimate goal is to have it on almost 24/7, running BOINC projects, putting the CPU under load almost-constantly.

Secondly, pause the science whenever (hence little to no load), and let it be used for general surfing, YouTube vids...family members using it.

Third: Now and then turning off the fun, and using it to run a server OS for "labs".

Moral: The best, most-stable OC is a noble goal here.

NOTE: I have this "stable" at 3.8 GHz, but I want to make extra sure I can't eek more out (see B, below) and I'm not sure it's as stable as it should be (see C, below).

*** Here come the Questions ***

A) Given 2, above, should I reset my BIOS to factory default, and take a baseline reading of the VCore? or, should I set a very low value at something like 1.2500 V?

I'm asking this because it appears that the guide's implications are that when you boot for the first time, BIOS reads your Vcore, and that's where you're supposed to start, moving slowly upwards.

B) I am not at my computer to give exact readings, but I was able to eek out stability under the latest version of Prime95 for 13 hours at 3.8 GHz, max core temp of 59C.

I want to know what info do I need to post for review so I can help you all help me? Screen shots from BIOS? a list of BIOS options and their settings?

I won't be able to get the data for another 1.5 days, but I wanted to post this to give a long enough time for response.

C) If I knew what the terminology was, I would use it...I'm looking for 1) the *name* of what's happening, and 2) any suggestion(s) for how to make it stop:

Symptoms: Under load, while I have task manager open in Windows 8.1 to watch the pretty graphs







, I see the CPU % peak out at 100% for an average of about 4.3 seconds, and then it drops to about 40% for an average of 6.2 seconds, then back to 100%.

During this time, Windows Task Manager reports the 3.8 GHz goes down to something like 1.3 GHz

I observe temps peak at 59C, and then fall dramatically during the "40% time frame" to about 48C - 50C.

Is this a fan/water cooling problem where I need to fit it to a different fan speed curve to overcome the heat produced by the load?

OR

Is this a function of having too much voltage to the CPU? or some sort of "protection" on the motherboard? Or, is Windows incorrectly reporting processor speed, and I"m falling for a dirty trick?









D) Regarding the settings reported in the Official guide vs. the settings I am not able to access, is this my user error?
:blinksmilif it's not my user error, can I help in any way to add on a little "something" so others coming after me can have a reference?

////// Thank You /////

I want to thank you all for your help and all the effort that has been put in to this point!

I look forward to your response(s).

And...I'm sorry for such a huge post...you should've seen it at the beginning


----------



## DVIELIS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *no1carez*
> 
> Hey there Ladies and Germs...
> 
> I need to know what you all need to best advise me, given the following scenario:
> 
> 1) Hardware:
> 
> 
> motherboard: asus m5a97 le r2.0
> CPU: 8320
> Cooling: Zalman LQ-310
> RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB DDR3 1866
> 2) Preconditions:
> 
> First, I used the AI software to automagically raise the processor speed to "Extreme", and all looked awesome at 4.150 GHz. What began to annoy me was the running of my BOINC client, and the entire system locking up. I ended up having to set it to "Turbo" in the auto software to get some stability.
> 
> Second, I found this guide--and here is where I think I created a problem for myself--and I jumped right in to begin changing settings in BIOS. I did not *start* from an "unaltered" set of BIOS settings...."stock" as I see it used here.
> 
> What I'm saying is: I started making bios overclocking settings, and my VCore starting point was something like 1.4250.
> 
> 3) I'm reading here that some boards have different options from the "standard" established in the post establishing this thread. My board's BIOS seems to be "missing" the options for the 3 or 4 different percentage (%) settings.
> 
> *** What do I wanna do with this rig? ***
> 
> First: My ultimate goal is to have it on almost 24/7, running BOINC projects, putting the CPU under load almost-constantly.
> 
> Secondly, pause the science whenever (hence little to no load), and let it be used for general surfing, YouTube vids...family members using it.
> 
> Third: Now and then turning off the fun, and using it to run a server OS for "labs".
> 
> Moral: The best, most-stable OC is a noble goal here.
> 
> NOTE: I have this "stable" at 3.8 GHz, but I want to make extra sure I can't eek more out (see B, below) and I'm not sure it's as stable as it should be (see C, below).
> 
> *** Here come the Questions ***
> 
> A) Given 2, above, should I reset my BIOS to factory default, and take a baseline reading of the VCore? or, should I set a very low value at something like 1.2500 V?
> 
> I'm asking this because it appears that the guide's implications are that when you boot for the first time, BIOS reads your Vcore, and that's where you're supposed to start, moving slowly upwards.
> 
> B) I am not at my computer to give exact readings, but I was able to eek out stability under the latest version of Prime95 for 13 hours at 3.8 GHz, max core temp of 59C.
> 
> I want to know what info do I need to post for review so I can help you all help me? Screen shots from BIOS? a list of BIOS options and their settings?
> 
> I won't be able to get the data for another 1.5 days, but I wanted to post this to give a long enough time for response.
> 
> C) If I knew what the terminology was, I would use it...I'm looking for 1) the *name* of what's happening, and 2) any suggestion(s) for how to make it stop:
> 
> Symptoms: Under load, while I have task manager open in Windows 8.1 to watch the pretty graphs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I see the CPU % peak out at 100% for an average of about 4.3 seconds, and then it drops to about 40% for an average of 6.2 seconds, then back to 100%.
> 
> During this time, Windows Task Manager reports the 3.8 GHz goes down to something like 1.3 GHz
> 
> I observe temps peak at 59C, and then fall dramatically during the "40% time frame" to about 48C - 50C.
> 
> Is this a fan/water cooling problem where I need to fit it to a different fan speed curve to overcome the heat produced by the load?
> 
> OR
> 
> Is this a function of having too much voltage to the CPU? or some sort of "protection" on the motherboard? Or, is Windows incorrectly reporting processor speed, and I"m falling for a dirty trick?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D) Regarding the settings reported in the Official guide vs. the settings I am not able to access, is this my user error?
> :blinksmilif it's not my user error, can I help in any way to add on a little "something" so others coming after me can have a reference?
> 
> ////// Thank You /////
> 
> I want to thank you all for your help and all the effort that has been put in to this point!
> 
> I look forward to your response(s).
> 
> And...I'm sorry for such a huge post...you should've seen it at the beginning


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *no1carez*
> 
> Hey there Ladies and Germs...
> 
> I need to know what you all need to best advise me, given the following scenario:
> 
> 1) Hardware:
> 
> 
> motherboard: asus m5a97 le r2.0
> CPU: 8320
> Cooling: Zalman LQ-310
> RAM: 32GB G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 8GB DDR3 1866
> 2) Preconditions:
> 
> First, I used the AI software to automagically raise the processor speed to "Extreme", and all looked awesome at 4.150 GHz. What began to annoy me was the running of my BOINC client, and the entire system locking up. I ended up having to set it to "Turbo" in the auto software to get some stability.
> 
> Second, I found this guide--and here is where I think I created a problem for myself--and I jumped right in to begin changing settings in BIOS. I did not *start* from an "unaltered" set of BIOS settings...."stock" as I see it used here.
> 
> What I'm saying is: I started making bios overclocking settings, and my VCore starting point was something like 1.4250.
> 
> 3) I'm reading here that some boards have different options from the "standard" established in the post establishing this thread. My board's BIOS seems to be "missing" the options for the 3 or 4 different percentage (%) settings.
> 
> *** What do I wanna do with this rig? ***
> 
> First: My ultimate goal is to have it on almost 24/7, running BOINC projects, putting the CPU under load almost-constantly.
> 
> Secondly, pause the science whenever (hence little to no load), and let it be used for general surfing, YouTube vids...family members using it.
> 
> Third: Now and then turning off the fun, and using it to run a server OS for "labs".
> 
> Moral: The best, most-stable OC is a noble goal here.
> 
> NOTE: I have this "stable" at 3.8 GHz, but I want to make extra sure I can't eek more out (see B, below) and I'm not sure it's as stable as it should be (see C, below).
> 
> *** Here come the Questions ***
> 
> A) Given 2, above, should I reset my BIOS to factory default, and take a baseline reading of the VCore? or, should I set a very low value at something like 1.2500 V?
> 
> I'm asking this because it appears that the guide's implications are that when you boot for the first time, BIOS reads your Vcore, and that's where you're supposed to start, moving slowly upwards.
> 
> B) I am not at my computer to give exact readings, but I was able to eek out stability under the latest version of Prime95 for 13 hours at 3.8 GHz, max core temp of 59C.
> 
> I want to know what info do I need to post for review so I can help you all help me? Screen shots from BIOS? a list of BIOS options and their settings?
> 
> I won't be able to get the data for another 1.5 days, but I wanted to post this to give a long enough time for response.
> 
> C) If I knew what the terminology was, I would use it...I'm looking for 1) the *name* of what's happening, and 2) any suggestion(s) for how to make it stop:
> 
> Symptoms: Under load, while I have task manager open in Windows 8.1 to watch the pretty graphs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I see the CPU % peak out at 100% for an average of about 4.3 seconds, and then it drops to about 40% for an average of 6.2 seconds, then back to 100%.
> 
> During this time, Windows Task Manager reports the 3.8 GHz goes down to something like 1.3 GHz
> 
> I observe temps peak at 59C, and then fall dramatically during the "40% time frame" to about 48C - 50C.
> 
> Is this a fan/water cooling problem where I need to fit it to a different fan speed curve to overcome the heat produced by the load?
> 
> OR
> 
> Is this a function of having too much voltage to the CPU? or some sort of "protection" on the motherboard? Or, is Windows incorrectly reporting processor speed, and I"m falling for a dirty trick?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> D) Regarding the settings reported in the Official guide vs. the settings I am not able to access, is this my user error?
> :blinksmilif it's not my user error, can I help in any way to add on a little "something" so others coming after me can have a reference?
> 
> ////// Thank You /////
> 
> I want to thank you all for your help and all the effort that has been put in to this point!
> 
> I look forward to your response(s).
> 
> And...I'm sorry for such a huge post...you should've seen it at the beginning


First of all.
WOW at the long post, damnnn.

You did read the whole guide right?


Start by resetting the bios settings.
Turn off all the power saving features: cool and quiet, c1, c6, apm master mode... etc etc.
Turn off boost
Read out the default voltage and set that.
Then start the overclocking.

Raise the multiplier one step, test prime95 smallFFts for ~10 minutes
If it passes, repeat the above.
Until you get hangups or core errors, raise the Vcore one step, test smallFFTs for ~10 minutes.
If it passes redo steps 1-3.

Continue doing this until you either acquire your wanted core clock or you get the max safe temps:

Core: 62c
Socket(package): 72c
When you think you are good. Run prime95 blend overnight(8-12 hours).
If it crashes or gives errors, raise the Vcore if the temps are good. Or lower the multi one step if the temps are already at their max.

Enjoy your fast cpu.

About the cpu speed fluctuation:
You experience something we call Throttling.

That is either because you have power savings on.
Or the temps on your vrm's of the motherboard are too high.

Please download and install hwinfo64 and post a shot of the temps.


----------



## Moragg

Hi! I've just ordered an M5A99FX PRO R2.0, should be arriving next week. Now all I need is a CPU







and it'll be the 6300/6350/8320/8350. I expect my cooling solution to be the bottleneck - case is a Fractal Arc Midi R2 so I have decent airflow, CPU cooler is the Hyper 212 EVO. What kind of OC's could I expect from each of those CPUs? I imagine the 6-core would have lower TDP so I can push those further, but if it isn't that much then the 8-core would be a better option.

Thanks!

Edit: just to say I did read the guide, the 8350 reached 4.4GHz on entry-level air cooling and if the 8320 could do the same that's be perfect. I'm not chasing those last few MHz, from my 1055T an 8-core 4.4GHz would be amazing. Also, the Phenom II doesn't like temps over 55C - I assume that's been solved with Piledriver and I can go up to 60C without instability issues?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Hi! I've just ordered an M5A99FX PRO R2.0, should be arriving next week. Now all I need is a CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it'll be the 6300/6350/8320/8350. I expect my cooling solution to be the bottleneck - case is a Fractal Arc Midi R2 so I have decent airflow, CPU cooler is the Hyper 212 EVO. What kind of OC's could I expect from each of those CPUs? I imagine the 6-core would have lower TDP so I can push those further, but if it isn't that much then the 8-core would be a better option.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Edit: just to say I did read the guide, the 8350 reached 4.4GHz on entry-level air cooling and if the 8320 could do the same that's be perfect. I'm not chasing those last few MHz, from my 1055T an 8-core 4.4GHz would be amazing. Also, the Phenom II doesn't like temps over 55C - I assume that's been solved with Piledriver and I can go up to 60C without instability issues?


It really comes down to what you are going to use the system for?
Are you planning to use programs that use the 8-cores properly?

Give us some more info.
What would be the rest of the build?

The 212 EVO isn't bad. But it ain't great either.
I am using an Corsair h100 with my 8320 and around 4.7-4.8 is the max my cooling can take(650D case).


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> It really comes down to what you are going to use the system for?
> Are you planning to use programs that use the 8-cores properly?
> 
> Give us some more info.
> What would be the rest of the build?
> 
> The 212 EVO isn't bad. But it ain't great either.
> I am using an Corsair h100 with my 8320 and around 4.7-4.8 is the max my cooling can take(650D case).


Mostly gaming. I'm also interested in using SmoothVIdeoProject which eats cores like to tomorrow, but that's a minor thing. FOr gaming I expect more cores to be better, and there's always the option of upgrading cooling if I want a few more MHz later.

Only other heat-producing component is my 7870 Tahiti LE.

Edit: by gaming I don't mean MMORPGs, which I believe like cores.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Mostly gaming. I'm also interested in using SmoothVIdeoProject which eats cores like to tomorrow, but that's a minor thing. FOr gaming I expect more cores to be better, and there's always the option of upgrading cooling if I want a few more MHz later.
> 
> Only other heat-producing component is my 7870 Tahiti LE.
> 
> Edit: by gaming I don't mean MMORPGs, which I believe like cores.


If you have the budget to upgrade the cooling I would say go for the 8320/8350.
But for gaming IMO 8 cores is overkill these days. Though Battlefield 4 looks like it will have decent scaling on all 8 cores.
Most games now use 4 cores. Some use 6. Very few use 8.

But probably with the upcoming consoles, which have 8 cores. The core usage will go up.

If you want to use the cooling you have now for some time I would suggest you to get the 6 core and maybe safe up to get a better gpu.
That will aid you more in games.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> If you have the budget to upgrade the cooling I would say go for the 8320/8350.
> But for gaming IMO 8 cores is overkill these days. Though Battlefield 4 looks like it will have decent scaling on all 8 cores.
> Most games now use 4 cores. Some use 6. Very few use 8.
> 
> But probably with the upcoming consoles, which have 8 cores. The core usage will go up.
> 
> If you want to use the cooling you have now for some time I would suggest you to get the 6 core and maybe safe up to get a better gpu.
> That will aid you more in games.


I'm expecting core usage to become much more important soon, which is why I'm asking - on the 4 processors I listed, what would be the "average" OC on a 212 Evo?


----------



## Karameikos

Looking at Frosty Tech's Test Results, it would appear that the 212 EVO is comparable to the Zalman 9900 MAX, when fans are running at high speed. Of course, their tests were only performed on Quad Core AMD CPU's, so things might change a bit when you install with an 8 Core.

That said, I have the Zalman 9900 MAX, and it was able to keep my 8350 cool up to 1.39V at 4.4GHz, stable 24/7 for 9 months.

So I'd say you're looking at 4.2-4.5GHz peak for the top 2 processors, and the other 2 would probably peak at close to 4GHz. It's unlikely that the 212 EVO will dissipate enough heat to run a stable "100% load" with 1.4V or higher. Of the 4 CPU's you've listed, I only own the 8350, but AMD's binning process typically allows for around 10-15% extra out of processor (unless you get lucky in the CPU lottery, and / or go with custom cooling).


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Looking at Frosty Tech's Test Results, it would appear that the 212 EVO is comparable to the Zalman 9900 MAX, when fans are running at high speed. Of course, their tests were only performed on Quad Core AMD CPU's, so things might change a bit when you install with an 8 Core.
> 
> That said, I have the Zalman 9900 MAX, and it was able to keep my 8350 cool up to 1.39V at 4.4GHz, stable 24/7 for 9 months.
> 
> So I'd say you're looking at 4.2-4.5GHz peak for the top 2 processors, and the other 2 would probably peak at close to 4GHz. It's unlikely that the 212 EVO will dissipate enough heat to run a stable "100% load" with 1.4V or higher. Of the 4 CPU's you've listed, I only own the 8350, but AMD's binning process typically allows for around 10-15% extra out of processor (unless you get lucky in the CPU lottery, and / or go with custom cooling).


Not bad, I would be very pleased with an 8320 running 4.2GHz. What kind of temps were you getting with the Zalman (P95 small fft)?


----------



## Karameikos

The Zalman paired with an 8350 clocked at 4.4GHz w/ 1.392V hit 63C Core Temp within 5 minutes or so of P95 small FFT's, and did not exceed 65C Core Temp during a 20 minute run. Wasn't tracking socket temp at that time, as I was not experiencing throttling issues.

Ran 6 hours of Custom, only increasing RAM usage to 75%, and peaked at 69C Core Temp - but no errors.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> The Zalman paired with an 8350 clocked at 4.4GHz w/ 1.392V hit 63C Core Temp within 5 minutes or so of P95 small FFT's, and did not exceed 65C Core Temp during a 20 minute run. Wasn't tracking socket temp at that time, as I was not experiencing throttling issues.
> 
> Ran 6 hours of Custom, only increasing RAM usage to 75%, and peaked at 69C Core Temp - but no errors.


Ugh. 60C is the absolute limit I ever want to reach... 6300 looks like the way forward. I'll hope my 1055T tides me over till AMD's roadmaps get released next year, if I do get something then it'll probably be a 6300. I don't want my processor even touching 62C, 60C is my target for Small FFTs.

Thanks for the numbers! They are very useful and much appreciated.


----------



## Karameikos

I'd imagine your 1055T should be fine for a good while yet: my Phenom II @ 4GHz with a pair of XFX 6970's has not had any issues. My wife is running a Phenom I @ 3GHz with a pair of MSI 6850's, and she's been quite happy as well. Granted these are both primarily internet surf / streaming video / gaming machines.

My 8-core build was intended for work: had planned on running a number of XP Virtual Machines under the Windows 7 Pro 64-bit umbrella. Alas, that opportunity didn't exactly pan out, so I'm left with an Uber- "internet surf / streaming video / gaming machine". I figure there's naught left to do except max out the upgrade and push it to it's limits







(Code: future proofing)


----------



## Moragg

It could last a while yet depending on how it clocks on my better mobo, but if I can get £70 for it the 6300 is not that much more and can clock much higher with my cooling solution. It'll last me till black friday though


----------



## Deadboy90

So after a bit of a scare (It wouldn't POST initially) I finally got the new Saberkitty up and running!




Turns out part of the problem was that I missed plugging in my hard drives to my PSU.








So anyway im playing with the BIOS and I have some new interesting settings in Digi+ power control. What is Power Response control, Power thermal control, dram current capability, and dram power phase control?


----------



## ComputerRestore

Hi sorry I haven't been around in a while. No computer at new job









Since there was a bit of interest in the Turbo + FSB section I will give a very brief rundown.

(Example) 8350 Turbo Multipliers 20, 20.5, 21

So with Turbo Enabled, by increasing the FSB you can increase the Turbo Ranges. Using FSB 240 as an example you would have

4.8Ghz - Normal Speed
4.9Ghz - 4 Modules within thermal/power limits
5.0Ghz - 2 Modules within thermal/power limits

The reason I mentioned increased single threaded performance is because you may be able to set a higher frequency that you couldn't normally with 8 Cores, using 4 cores through Turbo. So higher single threaded performance.

Also it will scale with Thermal/Power limits to hopefully prevent BSOD's from board stress.


----------



## glenquagmire

NOOB HERE:

Great thread and great help so far. I have the Crosshair V Formula Z MOBO with 8350 CPU on watercool. I am totally new to OC'ing.

Here is what I have so far and please confirm: From here is there anything to change? What do I continue tweeking? The CPU Ratio and CPU Man Volt? CPU Ratio seems to adjust the target CPU speed, so is that where I get the 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 GHz from?? So a 23 ratio shows almost 5GHz, is this correct? I wen to 22 ratio and tried running IVT or IBT whatever for burn test and it crashed and reset the computer.

AI OC Tuner: Manual
CPU LVL UP: Cancel
CPU RATIO: (currently 21.5 (4300MHz)) *****HOW FAR DO I GO WITH THIS??? AM I LOOKING AT TARGET CPU SPEED???******
AMD TURBO: disabled
CPU BUS FREQ: Auto
PCIE FREQ: Auto
MEM FREQ: Auto (although my current mem sticks are 1866 CL8)
CPU/NB FREQ: 2200MHz
HT LINK SPEED: 2600MHz

CPU SPREAD SPEC: disabled
PCIE SPREAD SPEC: disabled
EPU POWER SAVING: disabled
XTREME TWEAKING: disabled

EXTREME OV: disabled
CPU & NB VOLT: Manual Mode
CPU MANUAL VOLT: 1.284v (in the box it says 1.293750. Is this correct?? I dont understand this? Does it start at the number that I see to the left??)
CPU/NB MANUAL VOLT: 1.162V (AUTO)
CPU VDDA: Auto
DRAM V: Auto
NB V: Auto
NB HT V Auto
NB 1.8v: Auto
SB V: Auto
VDDR: Auto
DRAM VREFDQ: Auto
DRAM VREFCA: Auto
DRAM VREFCA on CPU: Auto
NB V Switching Freq: Auto
NB 1.8v Switching Freq: Auto

*DIGI+POWER CONTROL*
CPU LLC: Ultra High
CCC: 130%
CPU PPC: Standard
CPU PSF: Auto
CPU PDC: T Probe
CPU PRC: Auto
CPU PTC: 130
VRM Spread Spec: Disabled
CPU/NB LLC: High
CPU/NB CC: 130%
CPU/NB PRC: Auto
DRAM C: 130%
DRAM PPC: Optimized
DRAM PSF: 300

ADVANCED
C n' Q: Disabled
C1E: Disabled
SVM: Disabled
CORE C6 ST: Disabled
HPC MODE: Enabled
APM MASTER MODE: Disabled


----------



## HeatPwnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Hi! I've just ordered an M5A99FX PRO R2.0, should be arriving next week. Now all I need is a CPU
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and it'll be the 6300/6350/8320/8350. I expect my cooling solution to be the bottleneck - case is a Fractal Arc Midi R2 so I have decent airflow, CPU cooler is the Hyper 212 EVO. What kind of OC's could I expect from each of those CPUs? I imagine the 6-core would have lower TDP so I can push those further, but if it isn't that much then the 8-core would be a better option.
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Edit: just to say I did read the guide, the 8350 reached 4.4GHz on entry-level air cooling and if the 8320 could do the same that's be perfect. I'm not chasing those last few MHz, from my 1055T an 8-core 4.4GHz would be amazing. Also, the Phenom II doesn't like temps over 55C - I assume that's been solved with Piledriver and I can go up to 60C without instability issues?


Actually just go for the 8350 and you'll be safe for the future upgrades...
If you are primarly planning on using 8350 with 7870, you'll be just fine for current and most future games...
But looking at some BF4 beta benchmarks, the first thing you'll be bottlenecking is definetly 7870... it's a solid card, but not for some ultra fancy graphics...
I can tell you from my example, I have 8350(4.5GHz) and using HD6950 2GB (a bit slower then 7870)... and I had some terrible frames(45avg, 30min, 80max) on all detail levels, gpu was on 100% load all the time, while cpu was barely at 60% load... easy to say what is getting bottlenecked here... (feel free to check out the rest of my specs so you can get a clew on what's going on)
as for the cooler, I think it will do just fine as you done even need to OC that 8350 for some time, it will do just fine, expectaly for games


----------



## Moragg

8350 costs quite a lot... and my next few months I'll be playing Skyrim (progress at ~2 hours a week is minimal, to say the least). Gaming isn't a huge part of my life, so unless I win a heck of a lot of money or get randomly sponsored for £2K I'm trying to keep costs down to a reasonable amount. I can't really justify getting the 8350 over the 6300, especially as the latter costs £70 less, and the 8350 OC will be bottlenecked by my cooler. And I've just dropped £100 on a mobo upgrade, if my 1055T can hit 4GHz on it then I hope it'll last another 12 months. If not, FX6300 at 4.6GHz will keep me happy for quite a while.


----------



## HeatPwnz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> 8350 costs quite a lot... and my next few months I'll be playing Skyrim (progress at ~2 hours a week is minimal, to say the least). Gaming isn't a huge part of my life, so unless I win a heck of a lot of money or get randomly sponsored for £2K I'm trying to keep costs down to a reasonable amount. I can't really justify getting the 8350 over the 6300, especially as the latter costs £70 less, and the 8350 OC will be bottlenecked by my cooler. And I've just dropped £100 on a mobo upgrade, if my 1055T can hit 4GHz on it then I hope it'll last another 12 months. If not, FX6300 at 4.6GHz will keep me happy for quite a while.


1055T is still a nice cpu, and will do just fine for another 12 months expectially if you're not planning on throwing anything crazy at it
Cheers


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hi sorry I haven't been around in a while. No computer at new job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since there was a bit of interest in the Turbo + FSB section I will give a very brief rundown.
> 
> (Example) 8350 Turbo Multipliers 20, 20.5, 21
> 
> So with Turbo Enabled, by increasing the FSB you can increase the Turbo Ranges. Using FSB 240 as an example you would have
> 
> 4.8Ghz - Normal Speed
> 4.9Ghz - 4 Modules within thermal/power limits
> 5.0Ghz - 2 Modules within thermal/power limits
> 
> The reason I mentioned increased single threaded performance is because you may be able to set a higher frequency that you couldn't normally with 8 Cores, using 4 cores through Turbo. So higher single threaded performance.
> 
> Also it will scale with Thermal/Power limits to hopefully prevent BSOD's from board stress.


I may play around with this but it would be nice to be able to increase multipliers per module. I'd be worried that the bad module(s) would still get turbo'd. It would be nice to prevent that somehow.


----------



## Karameikos

It may just be the CPU's I've been dealt, but I've noticed that of late my "slower" cores have been the higher numbered cores: cores 5 and 8 on my 8350, and cores 5 and 7 on my 9590. I don't recall which cores were limiting me on the 2 quad core CPU's I've overclocked, and in any case those units are both in storage at the moment.

Does Turbo default to any cores in particular? Or is it random based on which cores are currently available?

Also, is it confirmed that AMD numbers their cores by position on the die? I'm thinking that it would make sense to number them based on performance, with the "fastest" cores being 1 and 2, and Turbo defaulting to the lower numbered cores. Perhaps they are already doing this.


----------



## csimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> NOOB HERE:
> 
> Great thread and great help so far. I have the Crosshair V Formula Z MOBO with 8350 CPU on watercool. I am totally new to OC'ing.
> 
> Here is what I have so far and please confirm: From here is there anything to change? What do I continue tweeking? The CPU Ratio and CPU Man Volt? CPU Ratio seems to adjust the target CPU speed, so is that where I get the 4.5 4.6 4.7 4.8 GHz from?? So a 23 ratio shows almost 5GHz, is this correct? I wen to 22 ratio and tried running IVT or IBT whatever for burn test and it crashed and reset the computer.
> 
> AI OC Tuner: Manual
> CPU LVL UP: Cancel
> CPU RATIO: (currently 21.5 (4300MHz)) *****HOW FAR DO I GO WITH THIS??? AM I LOOKING AT TARGET CPU SPEED???******
> AMD TURBO: disabled
> CPU BUS FREQ: Auto
> PCIE FREQ: Auto
> MEM FREQ: Auto (although my current mem sticks are 1866 CL8)
> CPU/NB FREQ: 2200MHz
> HT LINK SPEED: 2600MHz
> 
> EXTREME OV: disabled
> CPU & NB VOLT: Manual Mode
> CPU MANUAL VOLT: 1.284v (in the box it says 1.293750. Is this correct?? I dont understand this? Does it start at the number that I see to the left??)
> CPU/NB MANUAL VOLT: 1.162V (AUTO)


You'll probably just need to raise your "CPU MANUAL VOLT:" to about 1.35v or 1.4v to get the next multiplier oc stable. Your cooling seems to be adequate enough to handle that.


----------



## glenquagmire

Hey all, if anyone is interested in my pic gallery I started, its under my profile.


----------



## chiznitz

Hi All,

I'm new here so first of all thanks for all the great information. I've done a lot of reading etc but I thin its best to go ahead and post up and see what others think.

CPU: 8350
MB: Asus m5a99fx evo 2.0
RAM: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313397
Cooler: HyperMaster 212 Plus

Settings: I'm using the recommended settings in the 1st post.

My core and cpu/nb voltages are manually set.

Mutiplier: 20
CPU FReq: 220
vCore: 3.0v

Temps: 71Socket, 57.6CPU

Screenshots






The jist of it all....

I have everything set in the bios but I am using the Asus utility to bump up by 1FSB and or 1 click up in voltage when needed. This looks like I'm at my current limit. My socket temp is hitting 71 and is listed as 72max. I moved up to 221FSB and immediately prime failed. I'm hesitant to add more voltage since I'm already at socket temp thermal max.

Do I have anything wrong that needs to be lowered to reduce temps?

Is this all I can expect out of my setup?

Do I need to reduce anything in bios, IE: set CPU/NB back to closest to 2200 I can can select and HT link back to as close to 2600 as I can?

Will this help temperatures?

Is this typical temps for my setup or did I fubar my thermal paste application?

Recommendations are super appreciated.


----------



## Moragg

Um... why didn't you try a multiplier OC?


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Um... why didn't you try a multiplier OC?


I did mess with it a little bit but the tutorials I had booked marked were a video where the guy does it via FSB and this one.

Will I experience lower temperatures using a multiplier? I'm open to either method to get the max out of my setup. I've saved a couple profiles so I can go ahead and reset to my base profile and then mess with multipliers.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I did mess with it a little bit but the tutorials I had booked marked were a video where the guy does it via FSB and this one.
> 
> Will I experience lower temperatures using a multiplier? I'm open to either method to get the max out of my setup. I've saved a couple profiles so I can go ahead and reset to my base profile and then mess with multipliers.


I'd try following the guide on here for multiplier OCing. It's generally considered better as you don't alter other things, like cpu/nb frequency, ram, HT link, which are all tied to the FSB. It can't do any harm to try, certainly, as long as you follow the instructions and stress test temps every time and keep voltages sane.


----------



## chiznitz

200 FSB @ 22.5 1.30625 vcore Failed right quick
200 FSB @ 22.5 1.31250 vcore took me to 73C fairly quickly.
*200 FSB @ 22.0 1.30000 vcore temps are hanging around 68* and prime is fine so far*

Can I now up the FSB by 1 until I get to hot?

Edit: also ambient is creeping up today, right now it'sup to 74.8*F


----------



## Moragg

Core temp is 68C, or socket temp? Remember max temp on core is 62C, and on socket is 72C.

The best results are achieved with a mix of multiplier+FSB increasing, but I think you're limited by your cooling solution here. CHoose whichever method provides the best stability and temps.


----------



## chiznitz

Thanks again.

HWinfo64
ITE IT8721F -> CPU 68C

CPU [#0]: AMD FX-8350 -> CPU 0 -> 54.3C

From my research I was thinking the ITE CPU is the socket temperature adn the CPU[#0] is the core temp. Hope I'm correct in that thinking.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> HWinfo64
> ITE IT8721F -> CPU 68C
> 
> CPU [#0]: AMD FX-8350 -> CPU 0 -> 54.3C
> 
> From my research I was thinking the ITE CPU is the socket temperature adn the CPU[#0] is the core temp. Hope I'm correct in that thinking.


Yup, that's the correct way of reading it. This is using the small FFTs in place, correct? If so I'd leave the default P95 running for a few hours with a temp logger that'll tell you min/max temp (like HWMonitor) just to see what over time temps are. If it goes to 1C or 2C over that's fine, I'd leave it as is, if it stays under by ~2C or more that's your cue to start upping FSB 1 at a time, or increasing multi further.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Yup, that's the correct way of reading it. This is using the small FFTs in place, correct? If so I'd leave the default P95 running for a few hours with a temp logger that'll tell you min/max temp (like HWMonitor) just to see what over time temps are. If it goes to 1C or 2C over that's fine, I'd leave it as is, if it stays under by ~2C or more that's your cue to start upping FSB 1 at a time, or increasing multi further.


Yes this is the small FFTs test per the 1st page instructions.

Just completing 203FSB @ 22.0 1.30625Vcore Temp is 70C Ambient is up to 75.4 in this room currently. (Sunny side of house







)

I don't believe I'm going to be able up the multi at all due to the 22.5 @ 1.3v Immediate prime fail. I increased the voltage to 1.30625 with 22.5 and went to 73C very quickly.

Granted winter is coming and this room is going to be in the 60s, -10F cooler from these tests.

my goal was to hit the 72 socket temperature without exceeding and leave the settings there since prime is running harder than pretty much anything I'm going to throw at it. The current BF4 benchmarks I believe were showing about 60% usage per core, as long as my gpu doesn't produce heat affecting the cpu I should be ok correct? The GPU fans blow downward and my antec 900 case has 2 120mm fans in the front, one of which I can tell for sure is blowing the hot hair towards the power supply on the bottom of the case which is one exhaust. The other exhaust is uptop on the rear, currently I do not have the 120mm fan in it..(it died the other day). I saw results that said the exhaust fan actually increased temps by 1-2C w/ hypermaster.


----------



## chiznitz

sorry another question...

Are most people being limited by the socket temperature? I have yet to come close to the max temp on the core.

Tried 204 @ 22 and 1.31875v, ambient is @ 75.4F and the socket bounced up to 73C. Prime failed at voltage below that.

Was really hoping to hit the 4500 mark, may have to settle for 4481









Dram voltage is @ 1.650. Would lowering this help temps at all? Anything else I can do besides water cooling etc at this point?

I put the old cpu fan blowing on the chipset heatsink and didn't notice any temperature differences.

Thanks again


----------



## Moragg

I would leave it at 4.4GHz using the multi overclock. Much safer, the 70MHz really isn't worth that much extra temperature. And GPU heat does increase CPU temp too, so that would be my recommendation. FSB 200, Multi 22, and the lowest voltage at which that is stable.

With those settings run P95 Blend for as long as you feel is necessary to ensure stability. I don't know much about this, if it isn't in the 1st page guide I'm sure there's lots of information around for how to torture test your CPU.


----------



## Karameikos

22x200 is all I could get out of my 8350 on a Crosshair V Formula Z. With 1.368V idle and 1.392V under full load.

I torture tested it for a day and a half, switching between each of the available tests, running Blend and Custom (set with 75% RAM as The Guide suggests) for the longest periods of time (6+ hours each).

Having a fan cool my CPU base plate wasn't necessary until I exceeded 1.4V, and I was also using liquid cooling at that point. The base plate fan kept my socket temps under control (lowered them by 10C as I ventured into 1.525V+ territory).

My temps currently do not exceed 65C Core and 74C Socket, with 1.56V under full load.

Edit: I ran this set up configured as above for 9 months with no issues at all. Only upgraded to the 9590 because I was in pursuit of 5GHz


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> 22x200 is all I could get out of my 8350 on a Crosshair V Formula Z. With 1.368V idle and 1.392V under full load.
> 
> I torture tested it for a day and a half, switching between each of the available tests, running Blend and Custom (set with 75% RAM as The Guide suggests) for the longest periods of time (6+ hours each).
> 
> Having a fan cool my CPU base plate wasn't necessary until I exceeded 1.4V, and I was also using liquid cooling at that point. The base plate fan kept my socket temps under control (lowered them by 10C as I ventured into 1.525V+ territory).
> 
> My temps currently do not exceed 65C Core and 74C Socket, with 1.56V under full load.
> 
> Edit: I ran this set up configured as above for 9 months with no issues at all. Only upgraded to the 9590 because I was in pursuit of 5GHz


Wish I knew why my socket gets hot so much quicker than the cpu. Oh well.

One thing that I noticed was I was able to drop vcore significantly from stock. I'm currently at 1.31250 and 22x202.

Would I be able to do the same thing to the CPU/NB voltage possibly? Drop the voltage a little at a time until it fails? Does this reduce overall heat? Worth trying or does it cause other issues?


----------



## Karameikos

My 9590 defaulted at 1.137V for the CPU/NB, and my 8350 defaulted at 1.162V. Both ran fine at 4.4GHz leaving those defaults in place (i.e., left it set to Auto).

My socket was heating up much faster than the cores as well, until I added that base plate fan. Prior to that, I was seeing as much as a 20C delta between the two, with the socket being the higher value. Now I only see a 10C delta. Unfortunately, I don't have a record of what my socket temp was prior to installing the H80i and my 9590: but I know my Core Temps were shooting through the roof when I was using my 9900 MAX HSF with my 9590. When running the 9590 for the first time on stock settings (all Auto), I hit 80C Core Temp during Small FFT Prime 95 run in less than 20 seconds!


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> My 9590 defaulted at 1.137V for the CPU/NB, and my 8350 defaulted at 1.162V. Both ran fine at 4.4GHz leaving those defaults in place (i.e., left it set to Auto).
> 
> My socket was heating up much faster than the cores as well, until I added that base plate fan. Prior to that, I was seeing as much as a 20C delta between the two, with the socket being the higher value. Now I only see a 10C delta. Unfortunately, I don't have a record of what my socket temp was prior to installing the H80i and my 9590: but I know my Core Temps were shooting through the roof when I was using my 9900 MAX HSF with my 9590. When running the 9590 for the first time on stock settings (all Auto), I hit 80C Core Temp during Small FFT Prime 95 run in less than 20 seconds!


Thanks for the info. Only thing I can do is add the stock cooler blowing on the heatsink. My case won't allow me to do anything else without really hacking away.

I'm having an issue now running custom test with 6000MB (i have 8GB ram).
Prime keeps error'g on a core.

I've taken voltage from 1.300 to 1.33125, is this normal? this is what, 5-6 steps above where it runs fine with the small test?


----------



## Karameikos

I didn't permanently mod my case - just took the side panel off and duct taped a 120mm fan into place at a 45 degree angle (see attached photo). This will get me through stress testing. I'll see what the variance between socket and core temps is when I am running normal usage and decide then if I need a new case or a mod to the side panel.

I was running at 1.36V idle and 1.392V full load when set to 4.4GHz.

Also, set memory usage to 4096MB (an even 50% of 8GB / 8192MB). You need to leave at least 3GB free, as Windows and other applications will gobble up 2GB themselves.

PC Fan.jpg 3146k .jpg file


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> 8350 costs quite a lot... and my next few months I'll be playing Skyrim (progress at ~2 hours a week is minimal, to say the least). Gaming isn't a huge part of my life, so unless I win a heck of a lot of money or get randomly sponsored for £2K I'm trying to keep costs down to a reasonable amount. I can't really justify getting the 8350 over the 6300, especially as the latter costs £70 less, and the 8350 OC will be bottlenecked by my cooler. And I've just dropped £100 on a mobo upgrade, if my 1055T can hit 4GHz on it then I hope it'll last another 12 months. If not, FX6300 at 4.6GHz will keep me happy for quite a while.


Hit the 8320 then if you can stretch to it, i had the 6300 and upgraded to the 8320, its better bang for buck and aria had it for just a little more than the 6300, im ten mins from aria so it makes sence to walk round and pick it up lol


----------



## Chopper1591

This chip keeps amazing me. Or is it the board....

fx-8320
990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0
h100 + GT 1850's pull

FSB 200
Multi 21
HT/NB @ stock
Vcore 1.425(in bios)


How come the vcore is so low and it still passes IBT?


----------



## chiznitz

So with prime when I run the small test it generates a ton of heat. Blend doesn't seem to take me near as high.

So a question, do I worry about thermals on the small test and use that as my benchmark for where I need to stop moving higher. Can I use blend instead and use the thermals from that?

Reason being, I'm having a ton of trouble getting any kind of overclock at stock voltage without really nailing some temperatures. stock was 1.35. I can run 4400mhz and successful tests at 1.300 and stay below thermal limits. However, as soon as I run a blend test it fails pretty quickly. I've upped the voltage to stock and the blend test doesn't make the temperatures go super nerdy on me.

Also, what is the best way to troubleshoot blend test failures...keep upping the core? is there someone else I can do?

One last thing, when I select anything above 1666ish in bios for ram I can't post. is that normal? My ram is rated for higher than that, the board is only going to 1833(OC) I believe..

ASUS m5a99fx evo 2.0

Thanks again all!

Edit: I also repasted my cooler/cpu. I removed all old paste and glazed both cpu and heatsink w/ artic4 using the credit card method. They seem to be closer together in temps now.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> So with prime when I run the small test it generates a ton of heat. Blend doesn't seem to take me near as high.
> 
> So a question, do I worry about thermals on the small test and use that as my benchmark for where I need to stop moving higher. Can I use blend instead and use the thermals from that?
> 
> Reason being, I'm having a ton of trouble getting any kind of overclock at stock voltage without really nailing some temperatures. stock was 1.35. I can run 4400mhz and successful tests at 1.300 and stay below thermal limits. However, as soon as I run a blend test it fails pretty quickly. I've upped the voltage to stock and the blend test doesn't make the temperatures go super nerdy on me.
> 
> Also, what is the best way to troubleshoot blend test failures...keep upping the core? is there someone else I can do?
> 
> One last thing, when I select anything above 1666ish in bios for ram I can't post. is that normal? My ram is rated for higher than that, the board is only going to 1833(OC) I believe..
> 
> ASUS m5a99fx evo 2.0
> 
> Thanks again all!
> 
> Edit: I also repasted my cooler/cpu. I removed all old paste and glazed both cpu and heatsink w/ artic4 using the credit card method. They seem to be closer together in temps now.


First of all. Stay away from the credit card method. IMO that is horrible. Just place a rice grain on the cpu and apply the heatsink.

What cooler are you using? Are you saying you reaching max temps with smallFFTs on stock voltage?

1.3v with 4.4 clock seems way to low voltage too me.

Just follow the suggested steps:

Set the default voltage(1.35v in your case)
Up the multiplier(cpu) on step and test prime smallFFTs for 10 minutes
If it fails(core errors, freezes, crashes) up the vcore one step and test smallFFTs 10 minutes again.
If it passes, up the miltiplier one step and test smallFFTs
Repeat steps 2 to 4 until you either reach your wanted overclock or you reach the thermal limits of the chip(cores: 62c, socket 72c)
THEN run blend overnight(12 hours preferable), if that gives errors add some more voltage
About the ram:
Have you tried upping the cpu-nb? Helps me with my memory clocks. For ~4.4ghz and 1866 ram I set my cpu-nb to about 1.28-1.3v.
Also have you set the timings correctly?

Good luck.


----------



## chiznitz

Thanks for the reply.

At stock voltage if I up the multiplier and run small FTT I go over thermal limits rather quickly. @ 3.0 and 4400 I still approach the limits very closely.

I'm pretty positive I used way to much thermal paste on my first try and probably not enough on this try since both cpu and heatsink were only glazed this time.

The cpu/nb voltage is one thing I was really interested in. I wasn't sure where to set that.

What ram timings should I be using, in CPU-Z I can see timings on the SPD tab and the system never exactly matches those values, it's close but not exact.

Here is my setup again.

CPU: 8350
MB: Asus m5a99fx evo 2.0
RAM: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313397
Cooler: HyperMaster 212 Plus

Thanks!


----------



## RKani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I'm pretty positive I used way to much thermal paste on my first try and probably not enough on this try since both cpu and heatsink were only glazed this time.


'Glazed' sounds about right actually; the thermal interface material only needs to be thick enough that no air can get in between the cooler and the heat source; any more than that and at best it's being wasted. You'd know if you hadn't used enough - your idle temperatures would looks like a load temperature.


----------



## Karameikos

I agree with Chopper on the "Credit Card Method" - stay away from it. Less is better, and if it is too much less, as RKani says, you will know immediately when viewing your temps in Bios.

My 8350 took 1.368V Idle to be stable at 4.4GHz. No matter what I added from there it would not get me stable at a higher speed. Not all CPU's are built for 5GHz... make sure to use the settings prescribed in The Guide: they will allow for more current under load (equivalent to another 12mV).


----------



## chiznitz

Just did a test.

I set all defaults in bios and ran small FTT.

41.6C Core
55C Socket

Set ram timings and all the settings in the first post per instructions but kept same clock/multiplier

Small FTT running for only 2 minutes
55.6C Core
67C Socket.

Therefore, something in the settings on first page is rocking my temps before I even get to the OC part.

Any idea which one of those Digi power settings I should play with?


----------



## Karameikos

The Digi-Power settings are allowing for more Current and Voltage: watch your Core Voltage as you start the prime 95 testing. It should increase by around 12mV. This will translate to more heat than you see when the settings are at Default. However, these settings allow for greater success at Over Clocking, so as always, it is a trade off between temperature threshold and max possible speed.

Your temps actually look about right: it typically doesn't take long to get to 55C with all 8 Cores running at 100% with Small FFT's or Large In Place FFT's. Socket temps are typically about 10C higher when you have adequate cooling. I'm 8 hours into a Custom test, currently running Large FFT's, and my Core temp is 50C with a Socket temp of 61C. Both get from 8C to 12C higher when the Small FFT portion comes around...


----------



## Karameikos

My 8350 was fine with it's stock 1.162V for the CPU/NB. My 9590 CPU/NB was 1.137V at stock, but I've since increased it to 1.175V.

I left my RAM timings on default (which exactly matched the timings listed on the RAM heat spreader labels), and just manually selected their rated speed of 1866MHz from the dropdown in Bios. I have not paid much attention to the timings listed in CPU-Z, as they are each rated for a different (lower) speed than what I am using.


----------



## swnny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> This chip keeps amazing me. Or is it the board....
> 
> fx-8320
> 990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0
> h100 + GT 1850's pull
> 
> FSB 200
> Multi 21
> HT/NB @ stock
> Vcore 1.425(in bios)
> 
> 
> How come the vcore is so low and it still passes IBT?


I have a question about IBT. How are you getting 75gflops, thus completing one run for 12secs at 4.2GHz, while my 8320 at 4.5 and even 4.6GHz is getting ~40Gflops, thus completing one run for more then 20secs? Is it because of faster memory?


----------



## h1F5solomon

Trying on 5GHz atm: http://valid.canardpc.com/xhi8hp
(You can see max temp @ link)


That's on full load after 20mins of stress testing.

So, my question is; Is the 1.548 volt TOO close to the 1.55, or am I still in the safe-zone?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Thanks for the reply.
> 
> At stock voltage if I up the multiplier and run small FTT I go over thermal limits rather quickly. @ 3.0 and 4400 I still approach the limits very closely.
> 
> I'm pretty positive I used way to much thermal paste on my first try and probably not enough on this try since both cpu and heatsink were only glazed this time.
> 
> The cpu/nb voltage is one thing I was really interested in. I wasn't sure where to set that.
> 
> What ram timings should I be using, in CPU-Z I can see timings on the SPD tab and the system never exactly matches those values, it's close but not exact.
> 
> Here is my setup again.
> 
> CPU: 8350
> MB: Asus m5a99fx evo 2.0
> RAM: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313397
> Cooler: HyperMaster 212 Plus
> 
> Thanks!


Don't apply paste on both the sink and cpu.
Which paste are you using? I usually clean both the cpu and the heatsink with iso alcohol(96%). Then apply some paste to the heatsink and wipe it off with a coffee-filter(lint-free). Then apply a dot to the cpu and press down the cooler so it spreads across the cpu. Works perfect.

To be honest I think you need a better cooler. The 212 is fine for quad cores but for octa cores it just isn't going to cut it....

If you reach the max temp at around stock clocks you can tweak with the settings as much as you want but you ain't gonna get there....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Trying on 5GHz atm: http://valid.canardpc.com/xhi8hp
> (You can see max temp @ link)
> 
> 
> That's on full load after 20mins of stress testing.
> 
> So, my question is; Is the 1.548 volt TOO close to the 1.55, or am I still in the safe-zone?


IMO you shouldn't look at voltage too much. If the temps are fine you can go over the max voltage no problem...
Don't blame me if you blow the hardware though. But like many peeps told here: these chips tend to die from temperature and not voltage. Some pump 1.8v through these, with LN2 though.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Don't apply paste on both the sink and cpu.
> Which paste are you using? I usually clean both the cpu and the heatsink with iso alcohol(96%). Then apply some paste to the heatsink and wipe it off with a coffee-filter(lint-free). Then apply a dot to the cpu and press down the cooler so it spreads across the cpu. Works perfect.
> 
> To be honest I think you need a better cooler. The 212 is fine for quad cores but for octa cores it just isn't going to cut it....
> 
> If you reach the max temp at around stock clocks you can tweak with the settings as much as you want but you ain't gonna get there....
> IMO you shouldn't look at voltage too much. If the temps are fine you can go over the max voltage no problem...
> Don't blame me if you blow the hardware though. But like many peeps told here: these chips tend to die from temperature and not voltage. Some pump 1.8v through these, with LN2 though.


Well, first you say "Don't look at the voltage too much" and then you say "Don't blame me if you blow the hardware".
You make me confused mate.









Temps on the motherboard are fine.
60c on socket, VRM1/2 68c/56c, NB 44c

So you say It's fine with this voltage then?


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hi sorry I haven't been around in a while. No computer at new job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since there was a bit of interest in the Turbo + FSB section I will give a very brief rundown.
> 
> (Example) 8350 Turbo Multipliers 20, 20.5, 21
> 
> So with Turbo Enabled, by increasing the FSB you can increase the Turbo Ranges. Using FSB 240 as an example you would have
> 
> 4.8Ghz - Normal Speed
> 4.9Ghz - 4 Modules within thermal/power limits
> 5.0Ghz - 2 Modules within thermal/power limits
> 
> The reason I mentioned increased single threaded performance is because you may be able to set a higher frequency that you couldn't normally with 8 Cores, using 4 cores through Turbo. So higher single threaded performance.
> 
> Also it will scale with Thermal/Power limits to hopefully prevent BSOD's from board stress.


I'm having trouble understanding exactly how the turbo overclocking works. If I mess with the turbo multiplier it does increase the turbo clock, albeit it's lower than what's reported in the bios, but more importantly, the base cpu multiplier doesn't seem to have any effect at all. my cpu frequency drops to like 4100mhz from 4400-4500. Currently fsb is at 225mhz. Ideally I would like 4400mhz as a base cpu clock with around 1.45v and have the voltage increase to 1.5v or more with a 4700-4800 turbo frequency. I tried a few different combinations and I'm unable to get my base cpu speed up from 4100.

Edit: I just read this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnyboy*
> 
> Turbo mode works in two stages.
> For stage 1 you need to have Core C6 State ON.
> For stage 2 you need to have supplementary Amp Master Mode ON.
> For my FX8320 i have AMD Turbo CORE Technology set to manual in order to establish second stage turbo multiplier.
> In this moment i have like this:
> 18 base multiplier (~4000 mhz)
> 18.5 first stage (~4080 mhz) this is not modifiable value
> 19.5 second stage (~4300 mhz)
> This is maximum i cant get with my old Cooler Master TX3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stage 1 enter when you have low loading on all core
> Stage 2 enter when you have high loading on maximum 4 cores
> I have Cool'n'Quiet ON, C1E ON, HPC Mode OFF


I'm currently stressing at 4628mhz, 1.5v and things are looking pretty good but I'd rather have all that auto stuff on and have that be my max. Gonna go give it a shot with c6 on.

Well well well, that sure did the trick. Unfortunately the lowest state under load is still 4176 but it usually cycles that frequency on 2 cores while the rest are at 4402 (during prime). If I run superPI it looks like it cycles 2 cores at 4741, 2 at 4402 and the rest at 4176. I guess the only solution is to raise the FSB even further or just leave it as is. I'd really like to get that base value up to 4400-4600.

Gonna do some more research but I'm also worried about how I'm going to actually test the system. Gonna try a few different combinations (less threads in prime or in combo with superpi) to see if I can get the max turbo to kick in.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Well, first you say "Don't look at the voltage too much" and then you say "Don't blame me if you blow the hardware".
> You make me confused mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps on the motherboard are fine.
> 60c on socket, VRM1/2 68c/56c, NB 44c
> 
> So you say It's fine with this voltage then?


What's your coretemp look like? Sounds to me like you got a really good chip, but on air cooling, unless it's really high end, I tend to shy .25-.5v off the max voltage. So your voltage is safe but it's still on the limit so just keep a tight eye on things.

If your max socket temp really is 60c after hours of prime with a mid range air cooler @ 1.55v and 5000mhz then I would say you are one lucky guy. Don't forget to watch those temps in the summer =).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Well, first you say "Don't look at the voltage too much" and then you say "Don't blame me if you blow the hardware".
> You make me confused mate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps on the motherboard are fine.
> 60c on socket, VRM1/2 68c/56c, NB 44c
> 
> So you say It's fine with this voltage then?


Absolutely









Like the others said. If it is stable and stays at that temp you are lucky in the lottery.









Be sure to test overnight though, or have you done that already?
If you are 10c lower then the max while stressing I would even say add some more volts and see where you get.
Just for fun though. You don't need higher then 5ghz for daily use IMO.

What did you use for monitoring the temps again?
Be sure to keep an eye on both the core and package(socket)temp.
And don't mix them up.

Wicked chip


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> What's your coretemp look like? Sounds to me like you got a really good chip, but on air cooling, unless it's really high end, I tend to shy .25-.5v off the max voltage. So your voltage is safe but it's still on the limit so just keep a tight eye on things.
> 
> If your max socket temp really is 60c after hours of prime with a mid range air cooler @ 1.55v and 5000mhz then I would say you are one lucky guy. Don't forget to watch those temps in the summer =).


I use a closed waterloop. Corsair H100i and the max temp on cores were 60c during the night.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Absolutely
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Like the others said. If it is stable and stays at that temp you are lucky in the lottery.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to test overnight though, or have you done that already?
> If you are 10c lower then the max while stressing I would even say add some more volts and see where you get.
> Just for fun though. You don't need higher then 5ghz for daily use IMO.
> 
> What did you use for monitoring the temps again?
> Be sure to keep an eye on both the core and package(socket)temp.
> And don't mix them up.
> 
> Wicked chip


Socket temp at 62 at max and cores at 60c. I'm using both CoreTemp + Aida64 for temps.
Did a run during the night and it seems to run fine. No crash or anything.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> I use a closed waterloop. Corsair H100i and the max temp on cores were 60c during the night.
> Socket temp at 62 at max and cores at 60c. I'm using both CoreTemp + Aida64 for temps.
> Did a run during the night and it seems to run fine. No crash or anything.


In that case I would leave it as it is.
Maybe tweak the ram a bit.

What nb/ht clocks you have btw?

Really nice temps for the h100i btw.
My h100 tends to say this is enough around 1.5v. Depending on the ambient of course.










Edit:
Just did 20 runs of IBT Avx on high. For comparison.

4.6ghz through multiplier only.
1.475v in bios(1.456v peak after vdroop)

Note the 61c temp is the socket temp.


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> In that case I would leave it as it is.
> Maybe tweak the ram a bit.
> 
> What nb/ht clocks you have btw?
> 
> Really nice temps for the h100i btw.
> My h100 tends to say this is enough around 1.5v. Depending on the ambient of course.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit:
> Just did 20 runs of IBT Avx on high. For comparison.
> 
> 4.6ghz through multiplier only.
> 1.475v in bios(1.456v peak after vdroop)
> 
> Note the 61c temp is the socket temp.


As you've seen the HT link is on 2759MHz and the NB is on 2508MHz.
I downclocked the CPU to 4.9GHz with lower volt anyway. But I was stable on 5GHz, so that feels nice.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> As you've seen the HT link is on 2759MHz and the NB is on 2508MHz.
> I downclocked the CPU to 4.9GHz with lower volt anyway. But I was stable on 5GHz, so that feels nice.


Smart move. 4.9 is plenty anyway.

This saves you some energy and makes the chip last longer.
How are the max temps for you on 4.9?


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Smart move. 4.9 is plenty anyway.
> 
> This saves you some energy and makes the chip last longer.
> How are the max temps for you on 4.9?


In gaming load I've been on max 50c, but during prime I'm on 60 ish


----------



## OldBarzo

Hi
I have an FX6300 which I am trying to run on an ASUS M5a97 pro
and am not having any luck. I have a HD Radeon 5870 1gb DDR 5
graphics card and cannot get a picture on my monitor.
RAM is Kingston Hyper 1600(8GB) and my cooler is a Xigmatek Aegir in push/pull config.
I have 2 of these boards and both behave the same. The CPU led flashes on then stays off, also the ram led but the VGA led does not indicate at all, also there are no beeps from the BIOS from the connected speaker.

Any ideas greatly appreciated.

Oldbarzo

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4


----------



## chiznitz

Can someone inform me on how the asus utility treats power settings?

I'm currently set to offset in the bios. I've ran a blend test for 2 hours before a worker failed...

I had a worker fail after 15 minutes when setting the asus utilty to 1.39375. Once I moved it up to 1.4 I was able to get 2 hours of blend.

What exactly is setting the voltage to 1.4 doing? I don't see hwinfo64 coming even close to that on what it reports for min/current/max.

I've been having one hell of a time trying to figure out how to get stable at 4.3-4.4ghz. I run the small ftt tests for 10 minutes and kept going until I hit my thermal limits, then tried blend..only to have to increase voltage significantly to get anywhere and then it gets way to hot. If I set LLC higher the temperatures go up significantly..is this the setting thats keeping me back?

Any help would be very much appreciated, I'm at a low on my overclock self esteem









HWInfo64
vCore Minimum: 1.284V
vCore: Maximum: 1.368V
CPU Voltage in Asus Utilty: 1.4
CPU/NB Voltage: 1.350
DRAM Voltage: 1.650

CPU Ratio 20
CPU BUS Freq. 215
DRAM Frequency: 862.9
NB Frequency: 2373

CPU Load Line: Regular
CPU/NB Load Line: Extreme
130% for capabilities
Power Phase control: standard
Power Response Controls: regular
Dram: 130%

Ram Timings
FSBRAM 1:4
10 12 11 30 40


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Can someone inform me on how the asus utility treats power settings?
> 
> I'm currently set to offset in the bios. I've ran a blend test for 2 hours before a worker failed...
> 
> I had a worker fail after 15 minutes when setting the asus utilty to 1.39375. Once I moved it up to 1.4 I was able to get 2 hours of blend.
> 
> What exactly is setting the voltage to 1.4 doing? I don't see hwinfo64 coming even close to that on what it reports for min/current/max.
> 
> I've been having one hell of a time trying to figure out how to get stable at 4.3-4.4ghz. I run the small ftt tests for 10 minutes and kept going until I hit my thermal limits, then tried blend..only to have to increase voltage significantly to get anywhere and then it gets way to hot. If I set LLC higher the temperatures go up significantly..is this the setting thats keeping me back?
> 
> Any help would be very much appreciated, I'm at a low on my overclock self esteem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWInfo64
> vCore Minimum: 1.284V
> vCore: Maximum: 1.368V
> CPU Voltage in Asus Utilty: 1.4
> CPU/NB Voltage: 1.350
> DRAM Voltage: 1.650
> 
> CPU Ratio 20
> CPU BUS Freq. 215
> DRAM Frequency: 862.9
> NB Frequency: 2373
> 
> CPU Load Line: Regular
> CPU/NB Load Line: Extreme
> 130% for capabilities
> Power Phase control: standard
> Power Response Controls: regular
> Dram: 130%
> 
> Ram Timings
> FSBRAM 1:4
> 10 12 11 30 40


Ehm.. Why do you have CPU LLC on Regular and CPU/NB on Extreme? ;s
If something you should switch those around.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> Ehm.. Why do you have CPU LLC on Regular and CPU/NB on Extreme? ;s
> If something you should switch those around.


The CPU/NB on extreme generates no heat from my tests.

Moving CPU/Load line immediately generates a ton of heat. I can try medium again but anything above that just goes insane.

Is this the only thing that would be recommended in my current configuration?

Edit: Just to test again I dropped the voltage down to 1.35625 and enabled LLC on High.

Temps are now 72C and 62C and still climbing...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldBarzo*
> 
> Hi
> I have an FX6300 which I am trying to run on an ASUS M5a97 pro
> and am not having any luck. I have a HD Radeon 5870 1gb DDR 5
> graphics card and cannot get a picture on my monitor.
> RAM is Kingston Hyper 1600(8GB) and my cooler is a Xigmatek Aegir in push/pull config.
> I have 2 of these boards and both behave the same. The CPU led flashes on then stays off, also the ram led but the VGA led does not indicate at all, also there are no beeps from the BIOS from the connected speaker.
> 
> Any ideas greatly appreciated.
> 
> Oldbarzo
> 
> Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4


First thing that comes to my mind is:
Is the bios compatible with that cpu? Maybe you need to update the bios?

When you take out the ram(all sticks) does it beep?


----------



## Maximus2501

Hello,
I was hoping to get a bit of advice. If my questions have been answered already, please direct me to those posts...if not, any help would be extremely appreciated!

Since my last post I haven't had much time to work on fine tuning my OC. Per the guide I ran Prime95's small fft to get my FX-6100 to 4.5Ghz.. Last time it ran was for just under 12 hours without any errors.

Now, moving on to the "blend" test...It's kicking my rear. Started out and got errors within 15 minutes. Made an adjustment, error at 59 minutes. Skipping the boring details...all other adjustments failed to render my OC stable for over an hour.

Please see attached screens of my current setup.

Again, thanks in advance for your suggestions.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Karameikos

Hello Maximus,

There are 3 settings that you ought to consider adjusting initially, as follows:

1. AI Tweaker Menu AI Overclock Tuner: change this from DOCP to Manual.

2. Advanced Menu HPC Mode: try this with Enabled - will help with Overclocking, so long as you don't experience a freezing issue.

3. DIGI+ Menu CPU Power Duty Cycle: try this with Extreme.

I would only make one change at a time, and run thorough testing several times after each change to gauge the impact of each change.

Each of the Prime 95 Torture Tests will impact your platform a bit differently: I always run them all as part of my stability testing, with the longer timeframe emphasis on Blend (6 hours) and Custom with 75% RAM Tests (12 hours).


----------



## Karameikos

Slightly "off topic", but probably relevant to stability when performance testing, so I'll proceed to ask here. A question regarding Vishera CPU's with Windows 7 Pro 64-bit:

There are apparently 2 Hot Fixes that have been released for AMD FX series CPU's: one to fix core scheduling, and one to address core parking. Neither of these Hot Fixes presented themselves to me through the normal Windows Update notification process. I've been running the 8350 since December, and am now running the 9590. Have not been doing much more than MS Office work and Internet surfing during that timeframe. To the point: are these necessary installs, or have they been integrated into SP1?

Thanks in advance for detailed clarification







If I need to be redirected to another thread, please provide the link.


----------



## chiznitz

I decided to go back to basics.
Every setting that is recommended in guide is set per guide.
Multiplier is at stock 20
voltage is 1.356
htt/nb 2200
Rated FSB 2207
I have ram set to 1033 w/ timings entered. I'm doing this on purpose to rule out ram errors (memtest was fine as well)

Running small FTT in prime w/ these "Stock OC" settings my CPU goes over 62C and socket goes over 72C as well. I shut down prime when I hit these numbers.

So what is really going on here with my system? I'm getting super frustrated at this point.

Coolmaster Hyper 212 Plus
Antec Nine Hundred case with the 120mm fans in front, I'm pushing the 122mm fan through the cooler currently and exhausting with 120mm fan in the back and a 200m fan on top.
Also have the stock cooler fan sitting on the video card angled towards the lower vrm heatsink (just below my cooler)

Ambient is 77F now which is a little high but I don't think I should already be at thermal limits..

Any help is super appreciated.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I decided to go back to basics.
> Every setting that is recommended in guide is set per guide.
> Multiplier is at stock 20
> voltage is 1.356
> htt/nb 2200
> Rated FSB 2207
> I have ram set to 1033 w/ timings entered. I'm doing this on purpose to rule out ram errors (memtest was fine as well)
> 
> Running small FTT in prime w/ these "Stock OC" settings my CPU goes over 62C and socket goes over 72C as well. I shut down prime when I hit these numbers.
> 
> So what is really going on here with my system? I'm getting super frustrated at this point.
> 
> Coolmaster Hyper 212 Plus
> Antec Nine Hundred case with the 120mm fans in front, I'm pushing the 122mm fan through the cooler currently and exhausting with 120mm fan in the back and a 200m fan on top.
> Also have the stock cooler fan sitting on the video card angled towards the lower vrm heatsink (just below my cooler)
> 
> Ambient is 77F now which is a little high but I don't think I should already be at thermal limits..
> 
> Any help is super appreciated.


Being that I have almost the same board, case, cpu, etc let me try to help. First off there is no M5A99FX EVO R2. There is an M5A99FX PRO R2 and an M5A99X EVO R2. Make sure you download and flash to the latest bios that is appropriate for your board. Also you should put that you have an 8350 and the specs of your ram for your rig for easy reference.

Now I'm not sure how you have that extra fan oriented, but I went ahead and stuck an 80mm fan (and you might be able to squeeze something larger), basically on the back of the GPU, pointing at an angle, blowing over the NB/VRM and a little of the CPU socket. While we're there, there's nothing stopping you from adding an extra fan somehow to your cooler for a push/pull config. I also recommend that you install a side 120mm fan on the side panel, which will blow fresh air over your GPU and CPU cooler. As always, ensure you have tucked all your cables nicely out of the way, use zip ties, velcro...whatever and leave all your extra cables hidden behind the right side back panel. Lastly, did your temps change at all when you remounted the heatsink? Everyone has their own method, I like to use a 1/2 grain of rice in the middle and a miniscule dot just inside each corner of the chip. I have not really found a difference as long as you don't use too much or too little, but I find it's important to set the heatsink on a little loosely with 2 screws, and then press hard/wiggle it a little bit, and always tighten your screws in an X pattern. A last note, make sure that neither the TPU or EPU switches on your board are on, if there is a red light next to the switch, then that particular switch is ON. Pay no attention to the orientation of the switch or the manual in this regard.

I start with all of this because the amount of heat that these chips put out is absolutely ridiculous. I came from a 1090T that I pushed between 4100-4400mhz and it didn't come close to stressing out my water cooling setup. Now with even more upgrades this 8320 is at the limit @ around 4500mhz.

Now as far as all those bios option go, I can say that one false move will send your temps skyrocketing. I have found that it's best to leave most of the voltages on auto and to be lenient on the VRM settings to keep the heat down. I played with everything and recommend you try this:

Obviously make sure you disable everything on the 2nd bios page for CPU such as cool n quiet, c6, etc (although I am currently stressing with all those options on, and I have found it to be just as stable at this moderate overclock, but I certainly would make sure they're off for anything extreme or when you're not sure what's stable yet), but do ENABLE HPC computing mode.

Now back to the other stuff.

Ai overclock tuner manual
Turbo core disable
Cpu ratio to something safe (try 18, stress for 10 minutes and if your temps are good/no errors, reboot and increase until your temps are bad/you get errors and either increase CPU voltage or knock it down half a multi and try again).
Bus frequency 200mhz
PCIE freq 100mhz
Memory set to something that is surely stable such as 1333 or 1600, ensure that your have the appropriate frequency at the top of the bios in yellow reading your target speed.
Go into your dram timing control and put 9-9-9 and 2t and leave everything else on auto (you can mess with this stuff later after you figure out your O/C)
Set your NB to 2200 and your HT to 2400, feel free to increase HT after your figure out what's going on.
anything "spread spectrum" to disable
Set your CPU llc to Ultra high. Ultra high appears to set the most STABLE voltage, although I have found that setting this to high, with a slight bump in voltage will decrease temps a touch. The reason that regular/high are not used is because they cause vdroop, and will cause your voltages to change more between load and idle.
Set your NB LLC to auto
CPU current capability to 130%
cpu/nb current capability to auto or 100%
CPU phase control optimized but you can try regular if you want to see if there's a difference
cpu voltage frequency auto
cpu power duty control to t probe
(let us know if there are any other options in your bios you are unsure about)

Set your CPU voltage manually, I would start at 1.375 or 1.4v but that's just me.
Set your dram to its default safe voltage (1.5 or 1.65v, etc) Adding voltage here seems to add heat to your processor so if you're worried about heat, put 1.5v, 1333mhz and loose timings just for testing and then increase later).
Everything else on auto. I think mine defaults vddc to 2.5, nb to 1.25, just make sure there's nothing silly going on like your board going wacko with the voltage on any of the items as some will add a lot of heat.

In the bios I usually like to leave fan monitoring to disable, and then I have AISUITE load up with windows and I only have fan xpert installed. Note that at least on my board, the fan speeds are based off of the socket temp, so I set the fan speeds to "user" and set the fans to hit 100% at 68-70* C.

Next, I have been using openhardwaremonitor and I have found that the voltage and temperatures are very accurate. Feel free to use cpu-z as a quick reference to check your voltage and frequencies but don't leave both open it can sometimes cause issues. Open prime95, click blend, then click custom and set it to use a bunch of your ram (75% or more). If it runs for 30 minutes you are getting close. Over 1 hour you are getting really close. Check to see if the failure/errors are always with the same core(s), and take note of what the error is.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Being that I have almost the same board, case, cpu, etc let me try to help. First off there is no M5A99FX EVO R2. There is an M5A99FX PRO R2 and an M5A99X EVO R2. Make sure you download and flash to the latest bios that is appropriate for your board. Also you should put that you have an 8350 and the specs of your ram for your rig for easy reference.
> 
> Now I'm not sure how you have that extra fan oriented, but I went ahead and stuck an 80mm fan (and you might be able to squeeze something larger), basically on the back of the GPU, pointing at an angle, blowing over the NB/VRM and a little of the CPU socket. While we're there, there's nothing stopping you from adding an extra fan somehow to your cooler for a push/pull config. I also recommend that you install a side 120mm fan on the side panel, which will blow fresh air over your GPU and CPU cooler. As always, ensure you have tucked all your cables nicely out of the way, use zip ties, velcro...whatever and leave all your extra cables hidden behind the right side back panel. Lastly, did your temps change at all when you remounted the heatsink? Everyone has their own method, I like to use a 1/2 grain of rice in the middle and a miniscule dot just inside each corner of the chip. I have not really found a difference as long as you don't use too much or too little, but I find it's important to set the heatsink on a little loosely with 2 screws, and then press hard/wiggle it a little bit, and always tighten your screws in an X pattern. A last note, make sure that neither the TPU or EPU switches on your board are on, if there is a red light next to the switch, then that particular switch is ON. Pay no attention to the orientation of the switch or the manual in this regard.
> 
> I start with all of this because the amount of heat that these chips put out is absolutely ridiculous. I came from a 1090T that I pushed between 4100-4400mhz and it didn't come close to stressing out my water cooling setup. Now with even more upgrades this 8320 is at the limit @ around 4500mhz.
> 
> Now as far as all those bios option go, I can say that one false move will send your temps skyrocketing. I have found that it's best to leave most of the voltages on auto and to be lenient on the VRM settings to keep the heat down. I played with everything and recommend you try this:
> 
> Obviously make sure you disable everything on the 2nd bios page for CPU such as cool n quiet, c6, etc (although I am currently stressing with all those options on, and I have found it to be just as stable at this moderate overclock, but I certainly would make sure they're off for anything extreme or when you're not sure what's stable yet), but do ENABLE HPC computing mode.
> 
> Now back to the other stuff.
> 
> Ai overclock tuner manual
> Turbo core disable
> Cpu ratio to something safe (try 18, stress for 10 minutes and if your temps are good/no errors, reboot and increase until your temps are bad/you get errors and either increase CPU voltage or knock it down half a multi and try again).
> Bus frequency 200mhz
> PCIE freq 100mhz
> Memory set to something that is surely stable such as 1333 or 1600, ensure that your have the appropriate frequency at the top of the bios in yellow reading your target speed.
> Go into your dram timing control and put 9-9-9 and 2t and leave everything else on auto (you can mess with this stuff later after you figure out your O/C)
> Set your NB to 2200 and your HT to 2400, feel free to increase HT after your figure out what's going on.
> anything "spread spectrum" to disable
> Set your CPU llc to Ultra high. Ultra high appears to set the most STABLE voltage, although I have found that setting this to high, with a slight bump in voltage will decrease temps a touch. The reason that regular/high are not used is because they cause vdroop, and will cause your voltages to change more between load and idle.
> Set your NB LLC to auto
> CPU current capability to 130%
> cpu/nb current capability to auto or 100%
> CPU phase control optimized but you can try regular if you want to see if there's a difference
> cpu voltage frequency auto
> cpu power duty control to t probe
> (let us know if there are any other options in your bios you are unsure about)
> 
> Set your CPU voltage manually, I would start at 1.375 or 1.4v but that's just me.
> Set your dram to its default safe voltage (1.5 or 1.65v, etc) Adding voltage here seems to add heat to your processor so if you're worried about heat, put 1.5v, 1333mhz and loose timings just for testing and then increase later).
> Everything else on auto. I think mine defaults vddc to 2.5, nb to 1.25, just make sure there's nothing silly going on like your board going wacko with the voltage on any of the items as some will add a lot of heat.
> 
> In the bios I usually like to leave fan monitoring to disable, and then I have AISUITE load up with windows and I only have fan xpert installed. Note that at least on my board, the fan speeds are based off of the socket temp, so I set the fan speeds to "user" and set the fans to hit 100% at 68-70* C.
> 
> Next, I have been using openhardwaremonitor and I have found that the voltage and temperatures are very accurate. Feel free to use cpu-z as a quick reference to check your voltage and frequencies but don't leave both open it can sometimes cause issues. Open prime95, click blend, then click custom and set it to use a bunch of your ram (75% or more). If it runs for 30 minutes you are getting close. Over 1 hour you are getting really close. Check to see if the failure/errors are always with the same core(s), and take note of what the error is.


Sorry for not reposting my settings. I edited my profile today to have them there and just realized that the link I selected goes to the correct motherboard the wording was wrong so yes i have the m5a99x
Ram is Team Vulcan DDR 2400 2x4GB modules

I just tried the settings you recommended but kept my stock voltage of 1.356

Temps rose to 73 Socket and 62 CPU within 5 minutes.
Idle was 36 socket 20cpu

I guess I could try pasting with the grain of rice since I did glazing w/ credit card method and removed a ton of the paste.

Cooling should be fine, I have everything set per others with same setup.

Edit: meant to say voltage 1.356 originally


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Sorry for not reposting my settings. I edited my profile today to have them there and just realized that the link I selected goes to the correct motherboard the wording was wrong so yes i have the m5a99x
> Ram is Team Vulcan DDR 2400 2x4GB modules
> 
> I just tried the settings you recommended but kept my stock voltage of 1.356
> 
> Temps rose to 73 Socket and 62 CPU within 5 minutes.
> Idle was 36 socket 20cpu
> 
> I guess I could try pasting with the grain of rice since I did glazing w/ credit card method and removed a ton of the paste.
> 
> Cooling should be fine, I have everything set per others with same setup.
> 
> Edit: meant to say voltage 1.356 originally


Yeah f that. Spray some alcohol on the cpu and sink, wipe off all the old stuff real good with something lint free then do your final wipes with a coffee filter or something lint free, visually inspect for any foreign matter on either surface before mounting. Little dab in the middle, push down and wiggle, cross tighten and check your temps again.

Could you post some pics of your rig as well?


----------



## farscaper

So i did my first over clocking, and i would like for you guys to go over my chosen settings. Hopefully everything is its proper setting. So my Current O'c Target is 4.1ghz

My pc spec are,
BIOS 1604
Mobo = 990fx sabertooth rev1 .
Cpu = Fx 8350 @ 4.1ghz
Memory = Gskill ripjaws 4x4 16gb @ 9-9-9-24- 2T
Vid card = diamond Hd7870 2gb double black factory o'c
Psu = thermaltake 850w
Air cooling for cpu = Noctua NH- D14

Displayed on Ai tweaker tab

Current cpu speed = 4100mhz
target cpu speed = 4100
current memory frequency = 1600 mhz
current nb frequency = 2200 mhz
current HT link speed = 2200 mhz

Ai over clock tuner = manual
Oc tuner = cancel
cpu ratio = 20.5
amd turbo core technology = disabled
cpu bus frequency = 200
pcie frequency = auto
memory frequency - DDR3- 1600 mhz
cpu/nb frequency = auto
ht link speed = auto
cpu spread spectrum = auto
pcie spread spectrum = auto
epu power saving mode = disabled
Dram timing control = memory at @ 9-9-9-24
Dram command rate = 2t
Dram driving control = left alone.

Digi + Vrm

Cpu load line calibration = auto
cpu/nb calibration = auto
cpu current capability = auto
cpu/nb current capability = auto
cpu power phase control = standard
cpu voltage frequency = auto
vrm spread spectrum = disabled
cpu power duty control = T.probe thermal

Cpu & NB voltage = manual mode

cpu manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.344v - Human input = 1.343750v
cpu/nb manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.175v Human input = auto
cpu vdda voltage, Mobo reads = 2.496v Human input = auto
dram voltage Mobo reads = 1.503v , Human input = auto
nb voltage, Mobo reads = 1.103v Human input = auto
nb ht voltage , Mobo reads = 1.200v Human input = auto
nb 1.8v voltage, Mobo reads = 1.800v Human input = auto
db voltage, Mobo reads = 1.100v Human input = auto
vdd pcie, Mobo reads1.100v Human input = auto
vddr , Mobo reads 1.200v Human input = auto

Advance tab
--> cpu config

cool n quiet = always disabled
c1e = disabled
svm = disabled
core 6 state = disabled
hpc mode = disabled
apm master mode = auto


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm new here so first of all thanks for all the great information. I've done a lot of reading etc but I thin its best to go ahead and post up and see what others think.
> 
> CPU: 8350
> MB: Asus m5a99fx evo 2.0
> RAM: Team Vulcan 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313397
> Cooler: HyperMaster 212 Plus
> 
> Settings: I'm using the recommended settings in the 1st post.
> 
> My core and cpu/nb voltages are manually set.
> 
> Mutiplier: 20
> CPU FReq: 220
> vCore: 3.0v
> 
> Temps: 71Socket, 57.6CPU
> 
> Screenshots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The jist of it all....
> 
> I have everything set in the bios but I am using the Asus utility to bump up by 1FSB and or 1 click up in voltage when needed. This looks like I'm at my current limit. My socket temp is hitting 71 and is listed as 72max. I moved up to 221FSB and immediately prime failed. I'm hesitant to add more voltage since I'm already at socket temp thermal max.
> 
> Do I have anything wrong that needs to be lowered to reduce temps?
> 
> Is this all I can expect out of my setup?
> 
> Do I need to reduce anything in bios, IE: set CPU/NB back to closest to 2200 I can can select and HT link back to as close to 2600 as I can?
> 
> Will this help temperatures?
> 
> Is this typical temps for my setup or did I fubar my thermal paste application?
> 
> Recommendations are super appreciated.


I went through your posts and saw this. I would say that you are at your limit with that cooler and or needs to be remounted. 4400 @ 1.3v is pretty good with that cooler. I would venture to say that if your core temps are in check and you are within 5* or so on your socket temps that you will be just fine. As far as dropping your other voltages, if you want to try that and test, by all means.


----------



## madmanmarz

Out of curiosity, drop your cpu-nb to 1.175, raise your vdda to 2.69, and use a moderate amount (240-260) of FSB speed with a lower multi and see if there's a difference.


----------



## Maximus2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Hello Maximus,
> 
> There are 3 settings that you ought to consider adjusting initially, as follows:
> 
> 1. AI Tweaker Menu AI Overclock Tuner: change this from DOCP to Manual.
> 
> 2. Advanced Menu HPC Mode: try this with Enabled - will help with Overclocking, so long as you don't experience a freezing issue.
> 
> 3. DIGI+ Menu CPU Power Duty Cycle: try this with Extreme.
> 
> I would only make one change at a time, and run thorough testing several times after each change to gauge the impact of each change.
> 
> Each of the Prime 95 Torture Tests will impact your platform a bit differently: I always run them all as part of my stability testing, with the longer timeframe emphasis on Blend (6 hours) and Custom with 75% RAM Tests (12 hours).


Karameikos:

Thanks for the quick reply! I'll be running through your suggestions as soon as I can find some "free" time.









I did have a follow up question...What are the differences, or rather the advantages/disadvantages, between D.O.C.P and Manual?

Thanks again.


----------



## Moragg

New mobo arrived







and I'm in the process of backing everything important up before the reinstall. Fingers crossed for reaching 4GHz!


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> I went through your posts and saw this. I would say that you are at your limit with that cooler and or needs to be remounted. 4400 @ 1.3v is pretty good with that cooler. I would venture to say that if your core temps are in check and you are within 5* or so on your socket temps that you will be just fine. As far as dropping your other voltages, if you want to try that and test, by all means.


The issue was 1.3 is good enough for small FTT all day long, when I run blend I need to increase the power significantly to not get instant failures...which puts me way over thermals.

Going to try the other recommendation here and will redo paste tonight after work as well as modify my case so I can blow directly onto the back of the CPU Socket.

I'll go ahead and open a thread of my own so we don't keep taking up pages here.

thanks all


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> So i did my first over clocking, and i would like for you guys to go over my chosen settings. Hopefully everything is its proper setting. So my Current O'c Target is 4.1ghz
> 
> My pc spec are,
> BIOS 1604
> Mobo = 990fx sabertooth rev1 .
> Cpu = Fx 8350 @ 4.1ghz
> Memory = Gskill ripjaws 4x4 16gb @ 9-9-9-24- 2T
> Vid card = diamond Hd7870 2gb double black factory o'c
> Psu = thermaltake 850w
> Air cooling for cpu = Noctua NH- D14
> 
> Displayed on Ai tweaker tab
> 
> Current cpu speed = 4100mhz
> target cpu speed = 4100
> current memory frequency = 1600 mhz
> current nb frequency = 2200 mhz
> current HT link speed = 2200 mhz
> 
> Ai over clock tuner = manual
> Oc tuner = cancel
> cpu ratio = 20.5
> amd turbo core technology = disabled
> cpu bus frequency = 200
> pcie frequency = auto
> memory frequency - DDR3- 1600 mhz
> cpu/nb frequency = auto
> ht link speed = auto
> cpu spread spectrum = auto
> pcie spread spectrum = auto
> epu power saving mode = disabled
> Dram timing control = memory at @ 9-9-9-24
> Dram command rate = 2t
> Dram driving control = left alone.
> 
> Digi + Vrm
> 
> Cpu load line calibration = auto
> cpu/nb calibration = auto
> cpu current capability = auto
> cpu/nb current capability = auto
> cpu power phase control = standard
> cpu voltage frequency = auto
> vrm spread spectrum = disabled
> cpu power duty control = T.probe thermal
> 
> Cpu & NB voltage = manual mode
> 
> cpu manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.344v - Human input = 1.343750v
> cpu/nb manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.175v Human input = auto
> cpu vdda voltage, Mobo reads = 2.496v Human input = auto
> dram voltage Mobo reads = 1.503v , Human input = auto
> nb voltage, Mobo reads = 1.103v Human input = auto
> nb ht voltage , Mobo reads = 1.200v Human input = auto
> nb 1.8v voltage, Mobo reads = 1.800v Human input = auto
> db voltage, Mobo reads = 1.100v Human input = auto
> vdd pcie, Mobo reads1.100v Human input = auto
> vddr , Mobo reads 1.200v Human input = auto
> 
> Advance tab
> --> cpu config
> 
> cool n quiet = always disabled
> c1e = disabled
> svm = disabled
> core 6 state = disabled
> hpc mode = disabled
> apm master mode = auto


First of all: Welcome to the world of overclocking, try not to get addicted.









Sadly my board lacks Digi+ settings so I am not too familiar with that. I can advise you to read the section of Digi+ on the first page. But auto will probably work for such a low overclock.

I read you post and all settings look to be in order. Only thing you need to change is the APM Master Mode on the Advance tab. Be sure to disable that. Else you will get slow-downs because the cpu tries to stay below TDP with that enabled.

Too shoot for the higher overclock just follow the steps on the first page of the guide.
Depending on the ambient temps you will probably reach around 4.6ghz or higher with that cooler. Of course it is different from chip to chip.

Good luck, and if you have more questions just shoot.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> The issue was 1.3 is good enough for small FTT all day long, when I run blend I need to increase the power significantly to not get instant failures...which puts me way over thermals.
> 
> Going to try the other recommendation here and will redo paste tonight after work as well as modify my case so I can blow directly onto the back of the CPU Socket.
> 
> I'll go ahead and open a thread of my own so we don't keep taking up pages here.
> 
> thanks all


It's just the cooler you are using. Don't expect wonders with it.

My Corsair h100 keeps up to about 1.45-1.475v

These chips put out some serious heat.









Edit:
Damn-it.

Sorry for double post.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximus2501*
> 
> Karameikos:
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply! I'll be running through your suggestions as soon as I can find some "free" time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did have a follow up question...What are the differences, or rather the advantages/disadvantages, between D.O.C.P and Manual?
> 
> Thanks again.


You're welcome! Regarding DOCP vs Manual:

1/ DOCP "auto optimizes the CPU Bus, CPU Ratio, and memory parameters". Meaning the Bios will set these values for you based on it's pre-determined (pre-programmed) method of understanding performance vs. stability.

2/ With Manual method, you set these values yourself and determine stability based on your own testing.

I believe the vast majority of individuals on this forum would choose option # 2


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Out of curiosity, drop your cpu-nb to 1.175, raise your vdda to 2.69, and use a moderate amount (240-260) of FSB speed with a lower multi and see if there's a difference.


My results with so far are amazing!
Vcore - 1.34375
VDDA 2.69
FSB 245
Multi: 18
Rated FSB: 2704

Memory: 819
FSBRAM 3:10
9 9 9 24 33 2T

I also moved my rear exhaust fan to be a pull fan on the coolermaster which I noticed dropped temperatures quite a bit. Even before I moved the fan I was having great results with VDDA @ 2.69. I'm running lower voltage than stock right now and blend test has been going for 30 minutes which is a record for me!! Usually it fails within 15 minutes even at super high voltages.

Could you please explain the logic here and whether or not I should tweak VDDA CPU/NB voltages anymore? Also will my ram timings be ok where they are if this continues good?

Thank you so much.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> First of all: Welcome to the world of overclocking, try not to get addicted.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sadly my board lacks Digi+ settings so I am not too familiar with that. I can advise you to read the section of Digi+ on the first page. But auto will probably work for such a low overclock.
> 
> I read you post and all settings look to be in order. Only thing you need to change is the APM Master Mode on the Advance tab. Be sure to disable that. Else you will get slow-downs because the cpu tries to stay below TDP with that enabled.
> 
> Too shoot for the higher overclock just follow the steps on the first page of the guide.
> Depending on the ambient temps you will probably reach around 4.6ghz or higher with that cooler. Of course it is different from chip to chip.
> 
> Good luck, and if you have more questions just shoot.


Firs , thanks for your input. I will roger your advice. Yes it's a small o'c I wanted to start small so I wouldnt fry my rig







. I did check the ambient temp of my room and it read arount 25 c. Motherboard read from bios 36c.. again thanks.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Firs , thanks for your input. I will roger your advice. Yes it's a small o'c I wanted to start small so I wouldnt fry my rig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I did check the ambient temp of my room and it read arount 25 c. Motherboard read from bios 36c.. again thanks.


It's good to be cautious.
But you have quality hardware right there so you will have to do real weird to fry things. Thermal protection will kick in long before you fry something anyway.

Increase the cpu multiplier one step and test with prime95 on smallFFTs settings for like 10 minutes.
If you get no errors, increase the multiplier one more step and re-run smallFFTs for 10 minutes.

Repeat this until you get error's: then increase the cpu voltage one step and re-run the same test.
* You might have to up the voltage a few steps depending on how large the step is with your motherboard.

Repeat the above until you either reach the max temperature of the chip or you are happy with the overclock you have:

cpu cores 62c
cpu socket(package) 72c
After this run prime95 on blend for at least 6 hours, preferable overnight(12 hours).
If you get error's increase the voltage some more and repeat.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> About the Guide
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This Guide was created as a simplified method to Overclocking Bulldozer and Piledriver CPU's. I've listed the most important settings to change in order to reach stability, in order to take the guess work out.
> FSB Overclocking is not discussed, as it's not required with a Black Edition CPU. **But if you know about FSB Overclocking, you can just use what you learn here, and apply it to that method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Overclock at your own Risk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Software
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _Recommended Stress Tool is Prime95 Version 27.7 or newer_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Known bugs and fixes:
> 
> 1. *Does not work on AMD Bulldozer processors. Fixed in gwnum 27.5 (there will not be a prime95 27.5).*
> 2. Length 1280K FFT crashes on Pentium 4s with 512K L2 cache or less. Fixed in 27.6.
> 3. Hyperthread detection is not working properly. Fixed in 27.6.
> 4. The 6K 2^N-1 and 8K, 10K, 12K, 16K 2^N+1 AVX FFTs are missing. Fixed in 27.6.
> 5. Some exponents above 536 million generate roundoff errors and incorrect results. Fixed in 27.6.
> 6. FFT crossover points need retuning. Many can be more aggressive, but a few need to be more conservative. Fixed in 27.6.
> 
> 
> 
> Temperature Monitoring
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> HW Monitor -
> _Package Temps, aka Core Temp (62C Max)_
> _CPU Temp, aka Socket Temp (70C Max)_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Tweaker Settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Auto, Manual, DOCP
> CPU Ratio - Adjusts the CPU Clock Multiplier (CPU Multi x FSB = CPU Speed)
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disable in order to manually Overclock the CPU
> CPU Bus Frequency - A.K.A. FSB. This adjusts the base clock for, HTT, NB, CPU, DRAM.
> PCIe Bus Frequency - Defaults to 100, not recommended to change, as it may damage GPU/HDD.
> Memory Frequency - Adjust the Memory Divider. (DRAM Divider x FSB = DRAM Speed)
> CPU/NB Frequency - Adjust the CPU/NB Divider - Defaults to 2000-2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - Adjust the HT Link Divider - Defaults to 2600Mhz
> CPU Spread Spectrum - Disable - to increase overclock stability
> PCIe Spread Spectrum - Disable - to increase overclock stability
> EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
> CPU & NB Voltage - Offset and Manual Mode - Change to Manual Mode for Overclocking
> CPU Manual Voltage - ** Available under Manual Mode - Increase the CPU Voltage when increasing the CPU frequency.
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - ** Available under Manual Mode - IMC Voltage - Increase when overclocking memory - may require an increase when increasing CPU frequency.
> CPU VDDA Voltage - Default 2.5v. Higher setting 2.695v will stabilize voltages under load but increases temps. Lower setting 2.2v will lower temps.
> DRAM Voltage - Adjust the voltage for DRAM. Default 1.5v
> NB Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the North Bridge Chipset on the motherboard - Default 1.1v
> NB HT Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the Hyper Transport - Default 1.2v
> NB 1.8V Voltage - Adjust the voltage for the Chipset/CPU Multiplier. Higher multi requires more voltage
> SB Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the South Bridge Default 1.1v
> 
> AI Tweaker Image - Recommended Settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DIGI+ Power Control & CPU Configuration
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _Wiki: The AM3+ Socket offers improved power regulation and power quality specifications, including an increased maximum current support of 145 A versus 110 A._
> 
> DIGI+
> 
> CPU LLC - Adjust CPU LLC. Recommended - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Adjust CPU/NB LLC. Recommended - High (50%)
> CPU Current Capability - Sets the Maximum Current Support. Recommended 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - Sets the Maximum Current Support. Recommended 130%
> _Note: Raising the Maximum Current Support does not make the CPU draw more Current. It just allows it to scale properly with voltage, to prevent Overvolting. Watts = Volts x Amps_
> CPU Power Phase Control - Sets the Phase Control. Extreme helps stability, but increases thermals
> CPU Voltage Frequency - More testing required
> VRM Spread Spectrum - Enabled runs in reduced EMI Mode - Recommended Disable
> CPU Power Duty Control - Extreme gives better stability, but higher thermals. T-Probe tested to 4.7Ghz
> CPU Power Response Control - Recommended Auto
> CPU/NB Power Response Control -Recommended Auto
> CPU Power Thermal Control - 130 Tested to 4.7Ghz (not sure what this effects)
> DRAM Current Capability - Set higher Capability for higher frequencies - Recommended 130%
> DRAM Voltage Frequency - more testing required
> DRAM Power Phase Control - Extreme gives better stability but higher thermals. Recommend - Optimal
> Advanced Tab
> 
> Cool'n'Quiet - Always Enabled will lower frequency of Cores under load.
> Recommend - Always Disabled - or Always Enabled once your Overclock is fine tuned.
> C1E - Enhanced Halt State. Lowers Power Consumption - Recommend - Disabled while testing Overclock (Enabled - Once fine tuned)
> SVM - Virtual Machine - Recommend - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Effects Overclock. Recommend - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Recommended - Enabled - Prevents Throttling when Socket Temp gets high. (In some cases it may cause freezing - if this occurs its recommended to disable)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled - (Set to Auto once Overclock is fine tuned)
> DIGI+ & CPU Config Image
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Picture Requires updating to reflect Recommended Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to expect from your CPU Cooler
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tricks to Keep things Cool
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Whether you are using a closed loop water cooler or air cooling, here are some trick to lower temps even more.
> 
> You can use the Stock CPU Cooler fan, with some double sided foam tape and either stick the fan to the case, or stick it to the Close Loop Cooler block, so that it is positioned blowing down over the VRM heatsink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another way to lower Socket and VRM Temps is to install a fan behind the motherboard so that it is blowing on CPU Socket. All the components link at the socket, so if you can move heat from it, it will help with overall cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DRAM Voltages and OC Stability
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> By using 1.5v or lower for DRAM voltage you can reduce the stress on the IMC to improve stability with overclocked settings.
> 
> Special thanks to DEUSXXX for testing
> POST
> 
> 
> 
> How to Apply Thermal Paste
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why it's just the Center of the IHS (Integrated Heat Spreader) that really matters, when applying Thermal Paste.
> 
> 
> *** Do not Delidd your FX CPU it's soldered.
> It's only meant to represent the size of the CPU Die.
> 
> 
> 
> M5A97 Notes
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It seems that the LLC functions on some of the M5A97 Motherboards does not function as intended.
> If you run into stability issues and strange voltages using LLC, it's recommended to leave it set to Auto.


Are these settings recommended to change lets say right after windows is installed and running properly? or when some one does minor o'c? for instance in my case?
So i did my first over clocking, and i would like for you guys to go over my chosen settings. Hopefully everything is its proper setting. So my Current O'c Target is 4.1ghz

My pc spec are,
BIOS 1604
Mobo = 990fx sabertooth rev1 .
Cpu = Fx 8350 @ 4.1ghz
Memory = Gskill ripjaws 4x4 16gb @ 9-9-9-24- 2T
Vid card = diamond Hd7870 2gb double black factory o'c
Psu = thermaltake 850w
Air cooling for cpu = Noctua NH- D14

Displayed on Ai tweaker tab

Current cpu speed = 4100mhz
target cpu speed = 4100
current memory frequency = 1600 mhz
current nb frequency = 2200 mhz
current HT link speed = 2200 mhz

Ai over clock tuner = manual
Oc tuner = cancel
cpu ratio = 20.5
amd turbo core technology = disabled
cpu bus frequency = 200
pcie frequency = auto
memory frequency - DDR3- 1600 mhz
cpu/nb frequency = auto
ht link speed = auto
cpu spread spectrum = auto
pcie spread spectrum = auto
epu power saving mode = disabled
Dram timing control = memory at @ 9-9-9-24
Dram command rate = 2t
Dram driving control = left alone.

Digi + Vrm

Cpu load line calibration = auto
cpu/nb calibration = auto
cpu current capability = auto
cpu/nb current capability = auto
cpu power phase control = standard
cpu voltage frequency = auto
vrm spread spectrum = disabled
cpu power duty control = T.probe thermal

Cpu & NB voltage = manual mode

cpu manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.344v - Human input = 1.343750v
cpu/nb manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.175v Human input = auto
cpu vdda voltage, Mobo reads = 2.496v Human input = auto
dram voltage Mobo reads = 1.503v , Human input = auto
nb voltage, Mobo reads = 1.103v Human input = auto
nb ht voltage , Mobo reads = 1.200v Human input = auto
nb 1.8v voltage, Mobo reads = 1.800v Human input = auto
db voltage, Mobo reads = 1.100v Human input = auto
vdd pcie, Mobo reads1.100v Human input = auto
vddr , Mobo reads 1.200v Human input = auto

Advance tab
--> cpu config

cool n quiet = always disabled
c1e = disabled
svm = disabled
core 6 state = disabled
hpc mode = disabled
apm master mode = auto


----------



## h1F5solomon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Are these settings recommended to change lets say right after windows is installed and running properly? or when some one does minor o'c? for instance in my case?
> So i did my first over clocking, and i would like for you guys to go over my chosen settings. Hopefully everything is its proper setting. So my Current O'c Target is 4.1ghz


You should still set up the DIGI settings.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> You should still set up the DIGI settings.


I will roger your advice....

so i tried to download core temps, and my comodo firewall flags it as a virus. Is this the webpage to get this program?.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> My results with so far are amazing!
> Vcore - 1.34375
> VDDA 2.69
> FSB 245
> Multi: 18
> Rated FSB: 2704
> 
> Memory: 819
> FSBRAM 3:10
> 9 9 9 24 33 2T
> 
> I also moved my rear exhaust fan to be a pull fan on the coolermaster which I noticed dropped temperatures quite a bit. Even before I moved the fan I was having great results with VDDA @ 2.69. I'm running lower voltage than stock right now and blend test has been going for 30 minutes which is a record for me!! Usually it fails within 15 minutes even at super high voltages.
> 
> Could you please explain the logic here and whether or not I should tweak VDDA CPU/NB voltages anymore? Also will my ram timings be ok where they are if this continues good?
> 
> Thank you so much.


No problem. I was doing some research and experimenting on my own last night and was able to drop my temps some with those settings. From what I've read, you don't want to go over 2.69 vdda on most boards but apparently it helps stabilize overclocks. Looks like it allows for more stability with less vcore. I also was reading that a lot of boards default to 1.15-1.175 for the nb voltage so I gave that a shot. Lastly it seems to me that having a high multi can place a little extra stress on the CPU, so I figured we could take some of that out of the equation by letting the higher FSB reduce the cpu multi.

Looks like you have a hell of a chip there, I bet with better cooling you could hit 5ghz no problem. Still, 4700mhz with less than stock voltage on mid range air cooling is pretty incredible. I need to get me one of them there 8350's!!

Good, yeah you definitely want the rear fan sucking out if it wasn't already. As far as ram timings go, in my experience bad ram timings will fail pretty quickly. You could always tweak later on in Windows using AMD overdrive. If I remember correctly you have some pretty nice ram, so I would go into cpu-z and look at the different profiles available and try to get the ram to match as closely as possible. You can always increase the dram multi and add a bit of voltage to get there.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h1F5solomon*
> 
> You should still set up the DIGI settings.


so the wierdest thing happened. As I went to steam to download all my games nothing happened. But when I clicked on download on all my games my computer shut down. Any relation to my over clock?.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Are these settings recommended to change lets say right after windows is installed and running properly? or when some one does minor o'c? for instance in my case?
> So i did my first over clocking, and i would like for you guys to go over my chosen settings. Hopefully everything is its proper setting. So my Current O'c Target is 4.1ghz
> ...


Looks like you just said f' the guide.
Go back read what it says and input that stuff into your bios. Have it open on a laptop or your phone if it makes it easier. Have you stressed with prime or anything?
Yes you should install windows on a 100% stable setup. I wouldn't install or download anything important until you are stable.

It may look daunting at first but just go step by step. You have a lot of stuff set to auto that shouldn't be (remember auto does not = default, it means the board puts what it thinks is appropriate).


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Looks like you just said f' the guide.
> Go back read what it says and input that stuff into your bios. Have it open on a laptop or your phone if it makes it easier. Have you stressed with prime or anything?
> Yes you should install windows on a 100% stable setup. I wouldn't install or download anything important until you are stable.
> 
> It may look daunting at first but just go step by step. You have a lot of stuff set to auto that shouldn't be (remember auto does not = default, it means the board puts what it thinks is appropriate).[/qu
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Looks like you just said f' the guide.
> Go back read what it says and input that stuff into your bios. Have it open on a laptop or your phone if it makes it easier. Have you stressed with prime or anything?
> Yes you should install windows on a 100% stable setup. I wouldn't install or download anything important until you are stable.
> 
> It may look daunting at first but just go step by step. You have a lot of stuff set to auto that shouldn't be (remember auto does not = default, it means the board puts what it thinks is appropriate).
> 
> 
> 
> So if I didn't want to overclock, should I still change those settings?. Or can I just set everything on default and let the ez bios over clock when I click on performance.
Click to expand...


----------



## glenquagmire

I have the Asus Crosshair V formula Z. I got things to a 4.8mzh oc so far and just bought new dram . I had 1866 cl 8 2x4GB with memory set to 1866, cpu nb at 2200 mhz and ht at 2600mhz. Ran fine then loaded my new dram 2400 cl 10 2x8gb. I bumped the memory to 2400 and left the ht at 2600 and the cpu nb said unsupported as anything lower than 2400. When I set cpu nb to 2400 and save reset, the computer doesn't boot. In using the new dram, what does the cpu nb mhz need to be at?


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> I have the Asus Crosshair V formula Z. I got things to a 4.8mzh oc so far and just bought new dram . I had 1866 cl 8 2x4GB with memory set to 1866, cpu nb at 2200 mhz and ht at 2600mhz. Ran fine then loaded my new dram 2400 cl 10 2x8gb. I bumped the memory to 2400 and left the ht at 2600 and the cpu nb said unsupported as anything lower than 2400. When I set cpu nb to 2400 and save reset, the computer doesn't boot. In using the new dram, what does the cpu nb mhz need to be at?


You need to make sure your chip and board will support 2400mhz dram first, if not drop the mem settings to 1866mhz on that dram with the same timings, if it boots at that, benchmark your mem and then go back and start tightening the timings, it may give u better results than increased mhz


----------



## glenquagmire

Ok so here is whats going on....

I had Ripjaws 1866 CL8 2x4gb DRAM set as:
4.8MHz
Mem Freq 1866
CPU/NB Freq 2200
HT Speed 2600
CPU Manual Volt 1.48
CPU/NB Volt 1.30
DRAM Volt 1.50

Now I have Trident X 2400 CL 10 2x8gb DRAM. I have the same settings as above, but when I switch the Memory Freq to 2400, I cant boot. I try upping the CPU/NB up to 3000MHz and still cannot boot. I can only boot when I make the new trident x the same setting as when I had the Ripjaws except now DRAM volt is 1.65.

Do I need to keep going up with the CPU/NB further than 3000MHz?


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *glenquagmire*
> 
> Ok so here is whats going on....
> 
> I had Ripjaws 1866 CL8 2x4gb DRAM set as:
> 4.8MHz
> Mem Freq 1866
> CPU/NB Freq 2200
> HT Speed 2600
> CPU Manual Volt 1.48
> CPU/NB Volt 1.30
> DRAM Volt 1.50
> 
> Now I have Trident X 2400 CL 10 2x8gb DRAM. I have the same settings as above, but when I switch the Memory Freq to 2400, I cant boot. I try upping the CPU/NB up to 3000MHz and still cannot boot. I can only boot when I make the new trident x the same setting as when I had the Ripjaws except now DRAM volt is 1.65.
> 
> Do I need to keep going up with the CPU/NB further than 3000MHz?


Right firstly if your ram is supported by board and cpu, your going to have to start over with your oc, you have taken such a big jump with your ram and expecting it to work by altering the ht and cpu/nb is a bit far fetched, set everything back to default and boot, see what settings your ram is reporting, then work on getting the ram to the 2400mhz until it wont POST, then and only then can you get back to overclocking your chip, or you could as i explained before, run it at 1866mhz with TIGHTER TIMINGS as the fx chips PREFER tighter timings to higher frequencies, i have GSKILLS 2x4gb 1600mhz at 9.9.9.24 T1 that i can oc to 1866mhz 11.10.11.27 T2 and although it is stable at that i get better results from the 1600mhz at cas9


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> So if I didn't want to overclock, should I still change those settings?. Or can I just set everything on default and let the ez bios over clock when I click on performance.


Bro if I were you I would follow the guide. You need to have a better understanding of what's going on. Do some research on overclocking and try to gain a basic understanding before you just start throwing things at it and end up with something unstable. Personally I would revert back to stock settings, do a clean Windows reinstall, download cpu-z, hardwaremonitor/open hardwaremonitor, latest v. of prime95, make a print out or open a laptop with the guide, read it 3 times, do some research on anything you don't understand and or ask specific questions at that point.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Bro if I were you I would follow the guide. You need to have a better understanding of what's going on. Do some research on overclocking and try to gain a basic understanding before you just start throwing things at it and end up with something unstable. Personally I would revert back to stock settings, do a clean Windows reinstall, download cpu-z, hardwaremonitor/open hardwaremonitor, latest v. of prime95, make a print out or open a laptop with the guide, read it 3 times, do some research on anything you don't understand and or ask specific questions at that point.


alright i will do that. But is there anything wrong using the ez mode and using any of those presets.?


----------



## glenquagmire

NEW BIOS FOR CROSSHAIR V FORMULA Z IS OUT
Crosshair V Formula-Z BIOS 1602

This is for Windows 7 64b
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/CROSSHAIR_V_FORMULAZ/#support


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> alright i will do that. But is there anything wrong using the ez mode and using any of those presets.?


Who knows give it a shot and run prime afterwards.


----------



## farscaper

ok so i tried to follow the guide as best as i can, would anyone experienced go over my settings on the bios. Please


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> ok so i tried to follow the guide as best as i can, would anyone experienced go over my settings on the bios. Please


Any reason you already upped the cpu/nb voltage and removed the rest from Auto? Besides that it looks like you're ready to start moving that multipier.


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Any reason you already upped the cpu/nb voltage and removed the rest from Auto? Besides that it looks like you're ready to start moving that multipier.


i was following the written guide, maybe i interpreted wrong. so your saying i should cpu/nb manaul voltage and the rest to auto? Like so..


----------



## chiznitz

That looks better now, I would still put your manual cpu voltage to whatever it was when you had defaults set, I see yours is a little lower.

Looks better now, I'm no expert though


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> That looks better now, I would still put your manual cpu voltage to whatever it was when you had defaults set, I see yours is a little lower.
> 
> Cpu & NB voltage = manual mode
> 
> cpu manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.344v - Human input = 1.343750v
> cpu/nb manual voltage, Mobo reads = 1.175v Human input = auto
> That's what I had originally


----------



## glenquagmire

PERFORMANCE PC DISCOUNTS!!!!!!!


----------



## farscaper

hello everybody

I ran 5 prime 95 small fft test's @ 10 min each. And they are as fallows,

Test 1 .
cpu [email protected] 20.5 = 4.11 ghz(mhz)
cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
Hw monitor temp @ 56'c = 132f'
No error's
Test 2 .
cpu [email protected] = 4.21 ghz(mhz)
cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
Hw monitor temp @57'c = 134f'
package temp @48'c
No error's

Test 3.
cpu [email protected] = 4.31 ghz(mhz)
cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
Hw monitor @ 59'c = 138f'
core temps -cpu = 121f' across all 8 cores
asus sensors = 59'c = 138f'
No error's

Test4.
cpu ratio @22.0 = 4.41 ghz(mhz)
cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
Hw [email protected] 60'c = 140f't
core temps -cpu = 124f' across all 8 cores
asus sensor = 60c = 140f'
package temps = 51'c = 123f
No error's

Test 5.
cpu [email protected] 22.5 =4.51 ghz(mhz)
cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
Hw [email protected] 62'c = 143f'
core temps = 128f' across all 8 cores
asus sensor = 62'c = 143f'
package temps 53'c 127f.
No error's

> on test 5 the computer reached 62'c = 143f max temp, but package temp stayed at 53'c = 127f'

Ambient room temps for all test were @ 25c

Any comments and or suggestions on what to do at this point are welcomed


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> hello everybody
> 
> I ran 5 prime 95 small fft test's @ 10 min each. And they are as fallows,
> 
> Test 1 .
> cpu [email protected] 20.5 = 4.11 ghz(mhz)
> cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
> Hw monitor temp @ 56'c = 132f'
> No error's
> Test 2 .
> cpu [email protected] = 4.21 ghz(mhz)
> cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
> Hw monitor temp @57'c = 134f'
> package temp @48'c
> No error's
> 
> Test 3.
> cpu [email protected] = 4.31 ghz(mhz)
> cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
> Hw monitor @ 59'c = 138f'
> core temps -cpu = 121f' across all 8 cores
> asus sensors = 59'c = 138f'
> No error's
> 
> Test4.
> cpu ratio @22.0 = 4.41 ghz(mhz)
> cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
> Hw [email protected] 60'c = 140f't
> core temps -cpu = 124f' across all 8 cores
> asus sensor = 60c = 140f'
> package temps = 51'c = 123f
> No error's
> 
> Test 5.
> cpu [email protected] 22.5 =4.51 ghz(mhz)
> cpu voltage @ 1.343750v = 1.44v
> Hw [email protected] 62'c = 143f'
> core temps = 128f' across all 8 cores
> asus sensor = 62'c = 143f'
> package temps 53'c 127f.
> No error's
> 
> > on test 5 the computer reached 62'c = 143f max temp, but package temp stayed at 53'c = 127f'
> 
> Ambient room temps for all test were @ 25c
> 
> Any comments and or suggestions on what to do at this point are welcomed


So you are saying the cores reached 62c but the package was only 53c?

If so you have reached the limit of your cooling.
But by looking at the clocks I think you should be able to lower the voltage slightly.

Give it a shot.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> So you are saying the cores reached 62c but the package was only 53c?
> 
> If so you have reached the limit of your cooling.
> But by looking at the clocks I think you should be able to lower the voltage slightly.
> 
> Give it a shot.


He mentions ASUS temperature, which on my board is the socket temperature. I find it rare the socket temp would be lower than the core temperature. To me it looks like he has some room to keep going


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> He mentions ASUS temperature, which on my board is the socket temperature. I find it rare the socket temp would be lower than the core temperature. To me it looks like he has some room to keep going


alright new update.

i ran another test. i ran prime 95 for 9 hours and 33 minutes.

cpu ratio @ 21.0 = 4.41ghz
cpu voltage = 1.343750 = 1.44v
prime 95 on blend option, = no errors.
Hw monitor @ 57c = 134f'
ambient temp when started test was at 25'c, but it probably dropped lower during the over night test.
package [email protected] 49'c

Temps at the initial test were 34c=93f.

. im happy with these temps and mild over clock.
Though prime 95 did not report any errors , I noticed that the Asus program locked up when I clicked the button that gives me the graphs , in turn so did the windows button . All this while prime 95 was runing. So I had to reset the machine. It probably froze the programs because everything was on full load.
again any suggestions are welcomed.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> alright new update.
> 
> i ran another test. i ran prime 95 for 9 hours and 33 minutes.
> 
> cpu ratio @ 21.0 = 4.41ghz
> cpu voltage = 1.343750 = 1.44v
> prime 95 on blend option, = no errors.
> Hw monitor @ 57c = 134f'
> ambient temp when started test was at 25'c, but it probably dropped lower during the over night test.
> package [email protected] 49'c
> 
> Temps at the initial test were 34c=93f.
> 
> . im happy with these temps and mild over clock.
> 
> again any suggestions are welcomed.


It's up to you but I would keep going. If you are posting the max temp the test hit then you definitely have more room to work.

I'm sitting @: 17.5*257=4513
CPU Voltage = 1.37500
CPU/NB = 1.175
DRAM = 1.5
VDDA = 2.6875
Temperatures: Socket 67C, CPU 64C

I think I finally found a stable overclock I can live with, blend has been going for an hour, hopefully it keeps going.

I'm really debating if I want to return this hyper 212plus while I can and get something different. It just doesn't seem to have the cooling needed, I'm barely on the edge of the graph showing what air coolers can do.

For what its worth, I cut the backside of my motherboard tray last night and was able to place a plastic 120mm fan mount in the hole temporary. I placed the stock AMD fan there blowing towards the socket, the results are amazing for socket temperatures, not really sure I noticed much on the core.

There was between 12-18Degrees difference in socket to core temperatures before I did this, now even with that little fan the difference is 2-6 degrees, impressive!


----------



## farscaper

Ok so the way to do it would be, if I wanted a higher ratio, is to lower the voltage ?. Seting it higher would raise temps right?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> He mentions ASUS temperature, which on my board is the socket temperature. I find it rare the socket temp would be lower than the core temperature. To me it looks like he has some room to keep going


Doesn't make sense to me.

So you say the Asus temp is socket?

But OP reported the Asus temp as 62c and the package temp(which is the socket) as 53c
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> alright new update.
> 
> i ran another test. i ran prime 95 for 9 hours and 33 minutes.
> 
> cpu ratio @ 21.0 = 4.41ghz
> cpu voltage = 1.343750 = 1.44v
> prime 95 on blend option, = no errors.
> Hw monitor @ 57c = 134f'
> ambient temp when started test was at 25'c, but it probably dropped lower during the over night test.
> package [email protected] 49'c
> 
> Temps at the initial test were 34c=93f.
> 
> . im happy with these temps and mild over clock.
> Though prime 95 did not report any errors , I noticed that the Asus program locked up when I clicked the button that gives me the graphs , in turn so did the windows button . All this while prime 95 was runing. So I had to reset the machine. It probably froze the programs because everything was on full load.
> again any suggestions are welcomed.


It's still a bit blurry...

Would you be so kind to download hwinfo64 if you haven't already done that.
And post a screenshot of the sensor window after 5-10 minutes of prime smallFFTs? Also let it get close to idle temps so I can see which is socket and which is core temp.

You are talking about HWinfo, package and Asus temps but I would like to see a screenshot of the sensors so I can make senso of it..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> Ok so the way to do it would be, if I wanted a higher ratio, is to lower the voltage ?. Seting it higher would raise temps right?


Well lower volts mean lower temps indeed.

But I doubt it you would get higher with less volts.
Just push the multi in 1 step increases and test with prime smallFFTs(10 minutes) until you get core errors. Then increase the voltage 1 step and repeat.
After you get close to the max temp run blend overnight.


----------



## chiznitz

As per the guide, keep raising your multiplier until you get a failure in smallftt tests or reach thermal limits 62C for core, 72C for socket temperatures. (You can push these if you're willing, throttling starts at 70C core)

If you get a smallFTT failure within 10 minutes, up the voltage. I'm using the asus aisuite which allows you to change these things without going back and forth into the bios. Once I find a stable setting I go ahead and reboot and make the changes in the bios. Once I'm back in Windows I'll run my tests again to ensure stability then I'll start bumping up the FSB or multiplier again.

In your case I would just try moving the multiplier up by .5 and running smallftt to see your max temperatures. If that works and you aren't approaching temperatures I would move it up another .5 until you get failures or high temps. Again if you get a failure but are not approaching high temps move the voltage up one click and try again


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Doesn't make sense to me.
> 
> So you say the Asus temp is socket?
> 
> But OP reported the Asus temp as 62c and the package temp(which is the socket) as 53c
> It's still a bit blurry...
> .


The ASUS Utility and the ASUS Bios show the socket temperature not core.
I have yet to see someone running a lower socket temperature than core, this does happen but only for a minute or two when you place the cores under load. The cores spike fast in temperature and the socket trails but eventually will surpass the core temperatures.

If he is using hwmonitor it reports "Package temp" as the cores. See this screenshot I stole


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> The ASUS Utility and the ASUS Bios show the socket temperature not core.
> I have yet to see someone running a lower socket temperature than core, this does happen but only for a minute or two when you place the cores under load. The cores spike fast in temperature and the socket trails but eventually will surpass the core temperatures.
> 
> If he is using hwmonitor it reports "Package temp" as the cores. See this screenshot I stole


Yeah those are definitely core temps. The idle temp bug









I've had my core temps as low as 4c. Rofl


----------



## stickg1

What should I expect out of this A8-5600K? I have had it up to 4.2GHz @ 1.44v, temps seem fine around 54C, think I'm good up to ~1.5v?


----------



## farscaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Doesn't make sense to me.
> 
> So you say the Asus temp is socket?
> 
> But OP reported the Asus temp as 62c and the package temp(which is the socket) as 53c
> It's still a bit blurry...
> 
> Would you be so kind to download hwinfo64 if you haven't already done that.
> And post a screenshot of the sensor window after 5-10 minutes of prime smallFFTs? Also let it get close to idle temps so I can see which is socket and which is core temp.
> 
> You are talking about HWinfo, package and Asus temps but I would like to see a screenshot of the sensors so I can make senso of it..
> Well lower volts mean lower temps indeed.
> 
> But I doubt it you would get higher with less volts.
> Just push the multi in 1 step increases and test with prime smallFFTs(10 minutes) until you get core errors. Then increase the voltage 1 step and repeat.
> After you get close to the max temp run blend overnight.


here is the info you requested.


----------



## chiznitz

Question all.

I just had a failure in prime blend tests around 3hours and 45 minutes. Prime log shows the following

Code:



Code:


[Thu Oct 24 16:41:56 2013]
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
Self-test 72K passed!

What would be the best option in this situation? Increase cpu/nb? Increase NB? increase vcore?

I don't quite know which specific scenarios would lead to better results upping one voltage over the other.

Trying to be stable at 5000 on 8350.
vcore - 1.36250
cpu/nb - 1.175
vdda - 1.68750
dram 1.5
The rest of the voltages are at stock settings
BUS: 257
multi: 17.5
Digi Power set per instructions on page 1.
687mhz ram 9 9 9 25 34

Thanks again


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *farscaper*
> 
> here is the info you requested.


Alright thanks.

Hwinfo displays as follows:
CPU 0 = the core temp
CPU = socket temp

The nice thing about hwinfo is that you can change the labels at each temp. Just right-click on one of the names and choose rename.
When you click configure sensors you can even chose which sensors to display and at which places etc.

Here look, here is a shot of mine after 10 minutes smallFFTs.
I have the same vcore as you. What is your stock voltage btw? Mine is 1.325v.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Question all.
> 
> I just had a failure in prime blend tests around 3hours and 45 minutes. Prime log shows the following
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [Thu Oct 24 16:41:56 2013]
> Self-test 72K passed!
> Self-test 72K passed!
> Self-test 72K passed!
> Self-test 72K passed!
> Self-test 72K passed!
> Self-test 72K passed!
> Self-test 72K passed!
> FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4
> Hardware failure detected, consult stress.txt file.
> Self-test 72K passed!
> 
> What would be the best option in this situation? Increase cpu/nb? Increase NB? increase vcore?
> 
> I don't quite know which specific scenarios would lead to better results upping one voltage over the other.
> 
> Trying to be stable at 5000 on 8350.
> vcore - 1.36250
> cpu/nb - 1.175
> vdda - 1.68750
> dram 1.5
> The rest of the voltages are at stock settings
> BUS: 257
> multi: 17.5
> Digi Power set per instructions on page 1.
> 687mhz ram 9 9 9 25 34
> 
> Thanks again


Start with giving the vcore one bump.
Will probably need to up the cpu-nb a bit also. But don't do thing at the same time.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

***Question regarding AI Tweak on M5A97 board:

When I ran it on Windows it calibrated everything, showed some fun graphics, rebooted, and came back with another fun graphic that said that it overclocked my CPU to 4.3 Ghz. Im just wondering if I should leave it that way, or go back in and change the settings myself and follow the guide.

Has anyone else had any previous experience with ASUS's built-in overclocking tool, AI Tweak, and if so, does it actually perform a small, stable, OC that can be used? To tell you the truth, after the program ran there was no noticeable difference in performance.

**** Question regarding Prime 95 on Linux (mprime)

While I have Vista on my box, my main OS is Ubuntu. I noticed in the beginning of this thread that there were issues with Prime 95 not working with Bulldozer chips. Its not clear if it is corrected in later versions but was there any problems with 8350/Piledriver chips? If so, when I do this I guess I will just do it in Windows


----------



## link1393

Hey ! I have a question for you, at 4.4Ghz do I need more than 1333Mhz for my RAM ?

I have Kingston HyperX Beast 1600Mhz but in the bios I see it at 1333Mhz.


----------



## link1393

I can't go higher than 4.3Ghz.

At 4.4Ghz the core 5 stop at all test. Here some pic of the BIOS and my test :

This is after 4 min.




And the temp go uo to 61 and higher if I don't stop it.
and the BIOS :






I have an Hyper 212 Evo in Push/Pull at 1880RPM


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> ***Question regarding AI Tweak on M5A97 board:
> 
> When I ran it on Windows it calibrated everything, showed some fun graphics, rebooted, and came back with another fun graphic that said that it overclocked my CPU to 4.3 Ghz. Im just wondering if I should leave it that way, or go back in and change the settings myself and follow the guide.
> 
> Has anyone else had any previous experience with ASUS's built-in overclocking tool, AI Tweak, and if so, does it actually perform a small, stable, OC that can be used? To tell you the truth, after the program ran there was no noticeable difference in performance.
> 
> **** Question regarding Prime 95 on Linux (mprime)
> 
> While I have Vista on my box, my main OS is Ubuntu. I noticed in the beginning of this thread that there were issues with Prime 95 not working with Bulldozer chips. Its not clear if it is corrected in later versions but was there any problems with 8350/Piledriver chips? If so, when I do this I guess I will just do it in Windows


1. Any OCing utility always tends to over volt and are not recommended.
Always OC from the bios! You'll see much better results.

2. Prime95 runs fine on my setup. I have two 4.8GHz OC's that are 24 hr Prime95 stable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> Hey ! I have a question for you, at 4.4Ghz do I need more than 1333Mhz for my RAM ?
> 
> I have Kingston HyperX Beast 1600Mhz but in the bios I see it at 1333Mhz.


All of the Dram specs (freq, timing and voltage) should always be manually entered into bios to run at advertized speeds.
It's not uncommon to have to raise the dram voltage .05 to .1v on the AMD platform as rated voltage is for Intel and by nature they use less dram voltage.
You'll need to test at rated dram voltage first.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> I can't go higher than 4.3Ghz.
> 
> At 4.4Ghz the core 5 stop at all test. Here some pic of the BIOS and my test :
> 
> And the temp go uo to 61 and higher if I don't stop it.
> and the BIOS :
> 
> I have an Hyper 212 Evo in Push/Pull at 1880RPM


If you're hoping to OC that 8350 think seriously about a better cooling solution.
The Hyper 212 is not going to get you very far as you have already seen.

Looking at your bios snips you would have better luck manually entering all the values that you know rather than leaving so many on auto.
I'd be happy to share what I know to give you a better idea of what is important if you are unsure in this area.
Either post back here or feel free to PM me if you don't see me on here.


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Post
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> Hey ! I have a question for you, at 4.4Ghz do I need more than 1333Mhz for my RAM ?
> 
> I have Kingston HyperX Beast 1600Mhz but in the bios I see it at 1333Mhz.
> 
> 
> 
> All of the Dram specs (freq, timing and voltage) should always be manually entered into bios to run at advertized speeds.
> It's not uncommon to have to raise the dram voltage .05 to .1v on the AMD platform as rated voltage is for Intel and by nature they use less dram voltage.
> You'll need to test at rated dram voltage first.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> I can't go higher than 4.3Ghz.
> 
> At 4.4Ghz the core 5 stop at all test. Here some pic of the BIOS and my test :
> 
> And the temp go uo to 61 and higher if I don't stop it.
> and the BIOS :
> 
> I have an Hyper 212 Evo in Push/Pull at 1880RPM
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> If you're hoping to OC that 8350 think seriously about a better cooling solution.
> The Hyper 212 is not going to get you very far as you have already seen.
> 
> Looking at your bios snips you would have better luck manually entering all the values that you know rather than leaving so many on auto.
> I'd be happy to share what I know to give you a better idea of what is important if you are unsure in this area.
> Either post back here or feel free to PM me if you don't see me on here.
Click to expand...

Thanks I will try this and give you some news, but for the RAM I don't want to touch it because I think this is very complicated and I have an fx-8320


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> I can't go higher than 4.3Ghz.
> 
> At 4.4Ghz the core 5 stop at all test. Here some pic of the BIOS and my test :
> 
> This is after 4 min.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the temp go uo to 61 and higher if I don't stop it.
> and the BIOS :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Hyper 212 Evo in Push/Pull at 1880RPM


Not sure if this will help but I have a 212 plus and these are my settings. I'm @ 4500mhz and temperatures will reach around 67 on the core during prime, however, I'm ok with this since it's only a few minutes and its only for running prime during the stability testing.

Multiplier: 17.5
CPU BUS FREQ: 257
CPU Voltage: 1.37500
CPU/NB: 1.7500
DRAM: 1.5
VDDA: 2.68750 (If I don't do this I can't get prime stable at all)
The Digi+ Settings are what is recommended on first page.
Set HTT and NB Frequency to as close to default as it lets you select.
I set my ram to around 1333, tried higher but prime wasn't stable, I may go back and work on that but at this point I'm not sure if I care about the gains.

Edit: just realized you have 8320. Hopefully something in my setup may help you anyways









Good luck


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I'm really debating if I want to return this hyper 212plus while I can and get something different. It just doesn't seem to have the cooling needed, I'm barely on the edge of the graph showing what air coolers can do.
> 
> For what its worth, I cut the backside of my motherboard tray last night and was able to place a plastic 120mm fan mount in the hole temporary. I placed the stock AMD fan there blowing towards the socket, the results are amazing for socket temperatures, not really sure I noticed much on the core.
> 
> There was between 12-18Degrees difference in socket to core temperatures before I did this, now even with that little fan the difference is 2-6 degrees, impressive!


Good move on the mod to have the fan blowing against the backside of your motherboard: as posted previously, that had the single greatest impact on my Socket temperature. Replacing my Zalman 9900 MAX with the Corsair H80i had just as significant an impact on my Core Temperatures. (Read: ditch the Hyper 212 plus)

Been looking at cases that are configured for a fan to be behind the Motherboard in the first place: found the Xigmatek Elysium. However, from the on line photos it looks as though it would be a bit cramped between the side of the case and the Motherboard...


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Been looking at cases that are configured for a fan to be behind the Motherboard in the first place: found the Xigmatek Elysium. However, from the on line photos it looks as though it would be a bit cramped between the side of the case and the Motherboard...


Just an FYI, the Elysium is designed for something like this http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Kaze-Jyuni-Slim-Stream-120mm/dp/B002CYPWTG/ref=sr_1_1/182-3552900-8766427?ie=UTF8&qid=1382927144&sr=8-1&keywords=sy1212sl12l to go behind the mobo. It's what I run without issue.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Slightly "off topic", but probably relevant to stability when performance testing, so I'll proceed to ask here. A question regarding Vishera CPU's with Windows 7 Pro 64-bit:
> 
> There are apparently 2 Hot Fixes that have been released for AMD FX series CPU's: one to fix core scheduling, and one to address core parking. Neither of these Hot Fixes presented themselves to me through the normal Windows Update notification process. I've been running the 8350 since December, and am now running the 9590. Have not been doing much more than MS Office work and Internet surfing during that timeframe. To the point: are these necessary installs, or have they been integrated into SP1?
> 
> Thanks in advance for detailed clarification
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I need to be redirected to another thread, please provide the link.


Is anyone installing these Hot Fixes on their clean Windows 7 64 bit installs?

I've not tried them yet, but have not noticed any issues either. Except Steam hangs up with Shogun2 about 50% of the time, always when loading menus or maps) - but The Witcher 2 Enhanced Edition (a non-Steam title) runs just fine. I recall having issues with Steam Only Titles on my Phenom II as well (Lord of the Rings War In The North for one). So not sure if I should write that issue off as the usual Steam Only compatibility issues with certain configurations or not.

Was planning to try Age of Conan next, as it is multi-core enabled, but it takes soooooooo long to download, and I'm travelling a lot lately.


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> I can't go higher than 4.3Ghz.
> 
> At 4.4Ghz the core 5 stop at all test. Here some pic of the BIOS and my test :
> 
> This is after 4 min.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And the temp go uo to 61 and higher if I don't stop it.
> and the BIOS :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an Hyper 212 Evo in Push/Pull at 1880RPM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if this will help but I have a 212 plus and these are my settings. I'm @ 4500mhz and temperatures will reach around 67 on the core during prime, however, I'm ok with this since it's only a few minutes and its only for running prime during the stability testing.
> 
> Multiplier: 17.5
> CPU BUS FREQ: 257
> CPU Voltage: 1.37500
> CPU/NB: 1.7500
> DRAM: 1.5
> VDDA: 2.68750 (If I don't do this I can't get prime stable at all)
> The Digi+ Settings are what is recommended on first page.
> Set HTT and NB Frequency to as close to default as it lets you select.
> I set my ram to around 1333, tried higher but prime wasn't stable, I may go back and work on that but at this point I'm not sure if I care about the gains.
> 
> Edit: just realized you have 8320. Hopefully something in my setup may help you anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck
Click to expand...

Thanks I will try that, but now I am at 4.2Ghz at 1.368750V in the BIOS and I have a stable overclock (I don't do the Overnight). At 4.3Ghz and more when I do the blend test that never pass and the temp are too hight.

Now I have only the PCIE Frequency, CPU VDDA voltage at auto and all the RAM section
And what the VDDA voltage ?


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Good move on the mod to have the fan blowing against the backside of your motherboard: as posted previously, that had the single greatest impact on my Socket temperature. Replacing my Zalman 9900 MAX with the Corsair H80i had just as significant an impact on my Core Temperatures. (Read: ditch the Hyper 212 plus)
> 
> Been looking at cases that are configured for a fan to be behind the Motherboard in the first place: found the Xigmatek Elysium. However, from the on line photos it looks as though it would be a bit cramped between the side of the case and the Motherboard...


Newegg has the coolermaster 240m water for $69.99 after rebate. Returning the hyper 212 and some extra fans I bought would basically pay for that system. I'm just not sure it will mount in an antec900. Is it worth all the trouble...maybe...5ghz would be nice









This is the slim fan I bought, I haven't made the final case mod yet but I recieved it on saturday and it looks like it will fit.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835705066

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> Thanks I will try that, but now I am at 4.2Ghz at 1.368750V in the BIOS and I have a stable overclock (I don't do the Overnight). At 4.3Ghz and more when I do the blend test that never pass and the temp are too hight.
> 
> Now I have only the PCIE Frequency, CPU VDDA voltage at auto and all the RAM section
> And what the VDDA voltage ?


I've read about VDDA but from the most I can tell it really just supplies more power above vcore to help from vdroops. I couldn't get mine stable at stock and it was suggested I try a higher vdda, as soon as I did I was able to run lower core voltage and pass blend tests without introducing much more heat into this system.


----------



## link1393

What do you think about the Zalman Reserator 3 MAX ?

Just here


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> What do you think about the Zalman Reserator 3 MAX ?
> 
> Just here


Looking at reviews I think you could do much better when it comes to bank for buck cooling. The DH-14 air cooler beats it easily and is cheaper.


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> What do you think about the Zalman Reserator 3 MAX ?
> 
> Just here
> 
> 
> 
> Looking at reviews I think you could do much better when it comes to bank for buck cooling. The DH-14 air cooler beats it easily and is cheaper.
Click to expand...

But it's a lot bigger !! XD

and too much for my case(I think), the 212 is limit. I have ~1cm before my panel


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> But it's a lot bigger !! XD
> 
> and too much for my case(I think), the 212 is limit. I have ~1cm before my panel


I remember those days all to well my friend, not enough case I mean.

You've already had a taste of the heat that can be produced OCing a 83xx.

When it comes to a cooling solution it's cheaper *in the long run* to go big right at the start.
This doesn't have to be super expensive if planed out properly.
FYI Rasa kits can be externally mounted on top or on back of many cases to get you started plus they're expandable unlike AIO's.


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> But it's a lot bigger !! XD
> 
> and too much for my case(I think), the 212 is limit. I have ~1cm before my panel
> 
> 
> 
> I remember those days all to well my friend, not enough case I mean.
> 
> You've already had a taste of the heat that can be produced OCing a 83xx.
> 
> When it comes to a cooling solution it's cheaper *in the long run* to go big right at the start.
> This doesn't have to be super expensive if planed out properly.
> FYI Rasa kits can be externally mounted on top or on back of many cases to get you started plus they're expandable unlike AIO's.
Click to expand...

I do some research and I have enough room to support it, but I will do my OC with what I have.


----------



## piranha

So far so good running 1.42 at 5ghz 1st attempt afterbit blue screen but thay was qhat Iis pictured. . Prolly more tweaking tho 3d mark 11 was lower score than @ 4.3ghz 11% gain in ice storm... will get back qith other benches


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> So far so good running 1.42 at 5ghz 1st attempt afterbit blue screen but thay was qhat Iis pictured. . Prolly more tweaking tho 3d mark 11 was lower score than @ 4.3ghz 11% gain in ice storm... will get back qith other benches


Voltage is way too low IMO.

Having a hard time with typing?


----------



## piranha

From off my phone heh.. but im at 1.42 so far havent test ed more yet.. but no crashes so far


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> From off my phone heh.. but im at 1.42 so far havent test ed more yet.. but no crashes so far


How long have you tested now?

Are you using prime95?


----------



## chiznitz

I posted at 5100mhz last night and was able to play some CS:GO (had riva tuner showing my temps OSD). Soon as I hit start on prime it hard locked up.

I was only giving it 1.48v though just to test.

I'm thinking I may have an issue hitting 5k due to my 600i power supply.

Thermaltake water extreme 2.0 should be on my porch when I get home. My PC is completely stripped so i can do the install and finish my fan modification for blowing on the socket...still haven't cut the case side panel for actual mounting.


----------



## piranha

Didnt get to yet, just ran few benchmarks no prime yet, will when I get home in morning


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Just an FYI, the Elysium is designed for something like this http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-Kaze-Jyuni-Slim-Stream-120mm/dp/B002CYPWTG/ref=sr_1_1/182-3552900-8766427?ie=UTF8&qid=1382927144&sr=8-1&keywords=sy1212sl12l to go behind the mobo. It's what I run without issue.


Thanks for the tip! I actually had hands on with an Antec 1100 at Fry's Electronics this week. Looks like it has some decent clearance for a base plate fan: roughly 35mm between side panel and base plate. I've had experience with Scythe fans previously: the Ultra Kaze's with my Phenom II. Very impressive cooling!


----------



## BenC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> So far so good running 1.42 at 5ghz 1st attempt afterbit blue screen but thay was qhat Iis pictured. . Prolly more tweaking tho 3d mark 11 was lower score than @ 4.3ghz 11% gain in ice storm... will get back qith other benches


What's up with CPU-Z showing your 8350 as Zambezi?

Is this a CPU-Z version issue?


----------



## piranha

No idea, running benchmarks with gtx 780 but only getting 7500ish in firestorm. .. checked simular systems they get in 9400 range. And its oc alittle more to match zotac specs... power issue or maybe vlotages not high enough.. im not sure. At 1.45v for cpu now.. I ran r9 280x not 5ghz 4.3 and it got almost same score. Maybe 780 and oc drawing too much power or nb needs uped.. im us8ng 750watt power supply as well


----------



## piranha

Oh and I get an error when oc gpu some stating workload over


----------



## piranha

http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/1060861/fs/1077596


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> No idea, running benchmarks with gtx 780 but only getting 7500ish in firestorm. .. checked simular systems they get in 9400 range. And its oc alittle more to match zotac specs... power issue or maybe vlotages not high enough.. im not sure. At 1.45v for cpu now.. I ran r9 280x not 5ghz 4.3 and it got almost same score. Maybe 780 and oc drawing too much power or nb needs uped.. im us8ng 750watt power supply as well


I doubt it man. Nvidia states the 780 needs at least an 600w psu...

What brand and model is your psu?

Try to up the vcore to 1.475-1.5v when clocking 5ghz and re-run the test.


----------



## piranha

Psu last thing left to do, its just a coolmax 750watt.. maybe thats why r9280x was running better think that required 500watt. Will try ur suggesti9n though. With 280x wasnt having as many issues as 780. Prolly due to power draw. 280 was oc as well. But only did tests at 4.3 with it but 1, didnt have the time


----------



## chiznitz

Does anyone have more information on CPU Power Duty Control? I've had mine set to T-Probe but have been trying a bunch of things to improve stability so I switched it to extreme. I was dropping a core within 5 minutes doing a custom 12K - 12K test (this is what I'd always fail on) I'm currently much deeper into the same test and the only thing I really messed with was CPU Power Duty Control.

Exactly what effects does this have? I do not notice any increase in temperatures...


----------



## piranha

What are u clocked at? Im onpy having issues qitu benching with an oc 780 otherwise when I had a r9 280x no crashes, I followed the steps in list for 5ghz and only didy voltages a few times


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Does anyone have more information on CPU Power Duty Control? I've had mine set to T-Probe but have been trying a bunch of things to improve stability so I switched it to extreme. I was dropping a core within 5 minutes doing a custom 12K - 12K test (this is what I'd always fail on) I'm currently much deeper into the same test and the only thing I really messed with was CPU Power Duty Control.
> 
> Exactly what effects does this have? I do not notice any increase in temperatures...


Perhaps this may help?
http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2585-ASUS-Crosshair-V-Formula-BIOS-Guide-Overclocking&country=&status=

This is how I run just to give you an idea.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







As mentioned before you'll probably need much better cooling to be able to play real hard.
Keep a close eye on your temps!


----------



## piranha

At 1.475 benchmark jumped up to 8822 benching again with more videocard oc


----------



## piranha

Thinking and researching if gtz 470 qould be good as a dedicated physx card or not but yea thanks for the help


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Perhaps this may help?
> http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?2585-ASUS-Crosshair-V-Formula-BIOS-Guide-Overclocking&country=&status=
> 
> This is how I run just to give you an idea.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As mentioned before you'll probably need much better cooling to be able to play real hard.
> Keep a close eye on your temps!


Thanks. I guess I'll just leave it on extreme. I don't quite understand what it actually does but I made it much further in prime with it turned on.

My cooling system was changed to a TT water 2.0 extreme on friday night


----------



## om3nz

Hi guys. Just wanted to share my experience with the m5a99fx PRO r2.0. I have had problems with thermal throttling in prime95 when I have oc'd my 8320 to 4.5GHz @ 1.38v. The core temps were fine 54c, the cpu socket temps were on the higher side 75c. At first I have thought that the throttling is happening because of the high socket temps, but then I decided to slap a 120mm fan on the VRM heatsink and the thermal throttling has disappeared.







Btw, it didn't help when I tried putting the fan on the case side panel.


----------



## chiznitz

Any tips for hard lockups when temperature are still in order?

I've tried for stable 4.9 with many different configurations but keep getting a hard lock up in windows, I'm doing a custom 12K test since that what has been failing. Anything I can do to get past a 12K test?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Any tips for hard lockups when temperature are still in order?
> 
> I've tried for stable 4.9 with many different configurations but keep getting a hard lock up in windows, I'm doing a custom 12K test since that what has been failing. Anything I can do to get past a 12K test?


More volts?

But don't expect wonders with that cooling though.
Sure it's not bad but these chips put out massive heat IMO.

What temps are you getting on the current setting? And at what voltage?
I think you are near or at the max your cooling can take.
IMO you should have spent a little more and get a custom set.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> More volts?
> 
> But don't expect wonders with that cooling though.
> Sure it's not bad but these chips put out massive heat IMO.
> 
> What temps are you getting on the current setting? And at what voltage?
> I think you are near or at the max your cooling can take.
> IMO you should have spent a little more and get a custom set.


Not sure if you are referring to my old cooling setup or my new setup. Even @ 1.54 voltage in prime and small FTTs the CPU core temp hasn't broken 60C. The socket has been decent but has hit 75-76 at the 1.54 voltage. For some reason my CPU fan never seems to get over 1500-1600RPM even with all the different cooling programs I've tried. Trying to figure out how to make it run @ 100% no matter the temperature.

I don't think temperature is the issue though, I've even had the window open in the room with a big fan blowing directly onto the board etc, we're talking 40F ambient cold air flowing directly into the case on the VRMs etc.

So far the hard lockups are anything above 4800mhz no matter what voltage I'm throwing at it. I'm sitting here @ 4950mhz for over an hour without any issues. I know when I start prime though it'll lock after a bit.

I've tried multiple voltages from 1.48 through 1.54.

Currently 235FSB x 21
1.49375 vcore
1.175CPU/nb
1.5dram
Defaults on rest.

I've tried, VDDA 2.69, CPU/NB 1.3, NB 1.2, DRAM 1.65 (also around 1.520 has been tried)

Just no idea how to figure out what causes the hard lockups at this point.


----------



## ImJJames

I've always had prime95 stable with custom blend 75% memory just using multiplier increase @ 4.62ghz just by following the guidelines on here to a tee.

But I found out my memory overclocks really well. (Up to 2133 @ 1.6v's)

So I started from scratch and wanted to do FSB/Multiplier hybrid overclocking. I followed the recommend FSB settings, I am currently at

4.64Ghz @ 1.428

FSB - 250
DRAM - 2000Mhz @ 1.6v
CPU/NB - 2500Mhz
HTT - 2500Mhz

Interestingly enough, using FSB/Multi hybrid overclocking I was able to use less CPU voltage thus decreasing temps also compared to just multiplier overclocking. Not only that but I saw significant increase in my ram performance using maxxmem benchmark.

But there seems to be a small problem, using small fft prime I am stable @ 7 hours no errors temps never reaching pass 62C core/68c socket

But with blend or custom(75% mem) one of my cores fail with "illegal sumout" within one hour, but rest of cores are stable for hours on end.

My memory is perfectly error free as I run HCI memtest with 400% with 0 errors.

Has anyone been successful with overclocking FSB @ around 250(With DRAM/CPU/NB/HTT linked) and hours prime stable on blend?

Here are my settings 7 hour small fft prime stable, but only prime 1 hour blend stable.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Any tips for hard lockups when temperature are still in order?
> 
> I've tried for stable 4.9 with many different configurations but keep getting a hard lock up in windows, I'm doing a custom 12K test since that what has been failing. Anything I can do to get past a 12K test?


I had the same problem you were, I even reloaded windows fresh to eliminate any other sources. I found when playing with the auto voltages in the bios that anything above 4.7ghz wanted higher cpu/nb voltage. talking around 1.3v to almost 1.4v

Before I had a ton of issues with hard lock up's and hardware failure messages in prime.

Also check your ram timing's in the bios under tools you can see what timings are recommended for you ram. I set mine manually to the loosest timings. That seemed to do the trick for me.

also make sure you focus on one thing at a time. be sure to keep you NB and HT at 2200mhz to 2400mhz and ram to loose timings while hunting for your voltages to get the cpu at a comfortable overclock.

Then you can start playing with everthing else one at a time to optimize your clock.

These are what helped me in my search for 5ghz. Hope it helps you.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> I've always had prime95 stable with custom blend 75% memory just using multiplier increase @ 4.62ghz just by following the guidelines on here to a tee.
> 
> But I found out my memory overclocks really well. (Up to 2133 @ 1.6v's)
> 
> So I started from scratch and wanted to do FSB/Multiplier hybrid overclocking. I followed the recommend FSB settings, I am currently at
> 
> 4.64Ghz @ 1.428
> 
> FSB - 250
> DRAM - 2000Mhz @ 1.6v
> CPU/NB - 2500Mhz
> HTT - 2500Mhz
> 
> Interestingly enough, using FSB/Multi hybrid overclocking I was able to use less CPU voltage thus decreasing temps also compared to just multiplier overclocking. Not only that but I saw significant increase in my ram performance using maxxmem benchmark.
> 
> But there seems to be a small problem, using small fft prime I am stable @ 7 hours no errors temps never reaching pass 62C core/68c socket
> 
> But with blend or custom(75% mem) one of my cores fail with "illegal sumout" within one hour, but rest of cores are stable for hours on end.
> 
> My memory is perfectly error free as I run HCI memtest with 400% with 0 errors.
> 
> Has anyone been successful with overclocking FSB @ around 250(With DRAM/CPU/NB/HTT linked) and hours prime stable on blend?
> 
> Here are my settings 7 hour small fft prime stable, but only prime 1 hour blend stable.


Have you tried upping your vdda voltage to 2.69?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> I had the same problem you were, I even reloaded windows fresh to eliminate any other sources. I found when playing with the auto voltages in the bios that anything above 4.7ghz wanted higher cpu/nb voltage. talking around 1.3v to almost 1.4v
> 
> Before I had a ton of issues with hard lock up's and hardware failure messages in prime.
> 
> Also check your ram timing's in the bios under tools you can see what timings are recommended for you ram. I set mine manually to the loosest timings. That seemed to do the trick for me.
> 
> also make sure you focus on one thing at a time. be sure to keep you NB and HT at 2200mhz to 2400mhz and ram to loose timings while hunting for your voltages to get the cpu at a comfortable overclock.
> 
> Then you can start playing with everthing else one at a time to optimize your clock.
> 
> These are what helped me in my search for 5ghz. Hope it helps you.


CPU/NB can be taken to 1.5 just like the proc right? Not that i would do it..I haven't gone above 1.3, would trying 1.4 be a safe step as long as I have this window fan blowing on the board? I don't really have a way to monitor vrm temps but so far they are never too hot to touch.

Did you have to increase NB voltage? What about VDDA?

Thanks for the tips


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Have you tried upping your vdda voltage to 2.69?
> CPU/NB can be taken to 1.5 just like the proc right? Not that i would do it..I haven't gone above 1.3, would trying 1.4 be a safe step as long as I have this window fan blowing on the board? I don't really have a way to monitor vrm temps but so far they are never too hot to touch.
> 
> Did you have to increase NB voltage? What about VDDA?
> 
> Thanks for the tips


Here's where I ended up. Basically slowly raised my cpu/nb voltage untill it became stable. The max I would go is 1.4v and no more. Its just not worth the risk.

I read on ROG post that the VDDA voltage rarely needs to be touched and can be left on auto when overclocking.

And you can see how I keep my Mosfets/NB cool. I saw that it actually helped with the "CPU" temps in HWmonitor. Package aka core temps stayed basically the same if it did help it wasn't measureable on core temp or hwmonitor.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Have you tried upping your vdda voltage to 2.69?


Thanks for the tip increasing VDDA voltage to 2.62 has given me extra 15mins without any errors until it illegal sumout again on blend. So I increase it one more time its at VDDA 2.64 now and so far no errors on blend, this is longest I have gone on blend without any errors just by increasing VDDA voltage. Whats even crazier is my core and socket temps has decreased...

Currently running on blend 2 hours now, 4.64Ghz @ 1.428 Volts max core temp 55c/max socket temp 64c. I am very impressed. FSB/multiplier hybrid overclocking is much better option than just multiplier overclocking for these fx chips.

With the decrease of temps, I should be able to overclock my CPU even more now, will try for 4.7Ghz prime blend stable.

To anyone who thinks they are stable at small FFT, try blend







It takes a lot more tweaking to get stable on blend. Small FFT stable is easy.


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> Thanks for the tip increasing VDDA voltage to 2.62 has given me extra 15mins without any errors until it illegal sumout again on blend. So I increase it one more time its at VDDA 2.64 now and so far no errors on blend, this is longest I have gone on blend without any errors just by increasing VDDA voltage. Whats even crazier is my core and socket temps has decreased...
> 
> Currently running on blend 2 hours now, 4.64Ghz @ 1.428 Volts max core temp 55c/max socket temp 64c. I am very impressed. FSB/multiplier hybrid overclocking is much better option than just multiplier overclocking for these fx chips.
> 
> With the decrease of temps, I should be able to overclock my CPU even more now, will try for 4.7Ghz prime blend stable.
> 
> To anyone who thinks they are stable at small FFT, try blend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a lot more tweaking to get stable on blend. Small FFT stable is easy.


Are you using a straight FSB overclock or FSB+Turbo?
I was thinking of trying FSB OC,nice to see someone with good results.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Are you using a straight FSB overclock or FSB+Turbo?
> I was thinking of trying FSB OC,nice to see someone with good results.


Nope not straight FSB, FSB and multiplier. 250FSB 18.5 Multiplier


----------



## ImJJames

With further FSB/Multiplier hybrid overclocking testing, here is what I have come up with PRIME95 BLEND stable.

*4.71Ghz @ 1.452 Volts* (At 4.62 Ghz I only need 1.428 Volts prime95 blend stable)
*Multiplier: 18.5
FSB: 254 Mhz
DRAM: 2038 Mhz @ 1.6 Volts
HT: 254 Mhz
NB: 254 Mhz*

*CPU/NB Voltage: 1.3 Volts
CPU VDDA: 2.64 Volts
NB Volt: Auto*

Rest of settings are exactly same as the guide, except I changed CPU/NB LLC to AUTO

*Prime95 Blend Max Temps @ 2+ hours
Core: 65 C
Socket: 71C*

As you can see I am pretty much at my limit for air cooling(hyper 212 plus) Just remember that my prime temps are perfectly fine because you will never stress your computer as much during regular usage)


----------



## ImJJames

Quick question to people actually turn these back on after finding a stable overclock? I have heard issues turning CnQ on after a overclock.

*Cool'n'Quiet* - Always Enabled will lower frequency of Cores under load.
Recommend - Always Disabled - or Always Enabled once your Overclock is fine tuned.
*C1E* - Enhanced Halt State. Lowers Power Consumption - Recommend - Disabled while testing Overclock (Enabled - Once fine tuned)
SVM - Virtual Machine - Recommend - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
Core C6 State - Effects Overclock. Recommend - Disabled
HPC Mode - Recommended - Enabled - Prevents Throttling when Socket Temp gets high. (In some cases it may cause freezing - if this occurs its recommended to disable)
*Amp Master Mode* - Disabled - (Set to Auto once Overclock is fine tuned)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> With further FSB/Multiplier hybrid overclocking testing, here is what I have come up with PRIME95 BLEND stable.
> 
> *4.71Ghz @ 1.452 Volts* (At 4.62 Ghz I only need 1.428 Volts prime95 blend stable)
> *Multiplier: 18.5
> FSB: 254 Mhz
> DRAM: 2038 Mhz @ 1.6 Volts
> HT: 254 Mhz
> NB: 254 Mhz*
> 
> *CPU/NB Voltage: 1.3 Volts
> CPU VDDA: 2.64 Volts
> NB Volt: Auto*
> 
> Rest of settings are exactly same as the guide, except I changed CPU/NB LLC to AUTO
> 
> *Prime95 Blend Max Temps @ 2+ hours
> Core: 65 C
> Socket: 71C*
> 
> As you can see I am pretty much at my limit for air cooling(hyper 212 plus) Just remember that my prime temps are perfectly fine because you will never stress your computer as much during regular usage)


I would back down a bit if I were you. You are over max temps for the cores. Socket is just cutting it. 4.6 is nice for the cooling you have. My h100 lets me clock to 4.8 max. *edit: Misread that you have a fx-6300. H100 lets me clock my fx-8320 to ~4.8.
But don't say it is stable after you tested for 2 hours. Preferably run it overnight(12 hours) or at least 6 hours.

And what you said about smallFFTs is true. It is generally to reach the peak temps to see if the cooling takes it.
SmallFFTs hardly test the RAM and thus blend is tested afterwards to test for stability. To test blend after each setting change for a couple of hours would take too much time.

Ohh yeah and try to avoid settings things to AUTO. Especially voltage settings. So set the cpu-nb manually. Can giving your ram settings and NB frequency you should set it between 1.25v and 1.30v.

And if you can try to tighten the ram down a bit. Maybe a small bump in voltage. 2038 mhz cl 10 is a bit slow IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> Quick question to people actually turn these back on after finding a stable overclock? I have heard issues turning CnQ on after a overclock.
> 
> *Cool'n'Quiet* - Always Enabled will lower frequency of Cores under load.
> Recommend - Always Disabled - or Always Enabled once your Overclock is fine tuned.
> *C1E* - Enhanced Halt State. Lowers Power Consumption - Recommend - Disabled while testing Overclock (Enabled - Once fine tuned)
> SVM - Virtual Machine - Recommend - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Effects Overclock. Recommend - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Recommended - Enabled - Prevents Throttling when Socket Temp gets high. (In some cases it may cause freezing - if this occurs its recommended to disable)
> *Amp Master Mode* - Disabled - (Set to Auto once Overclock is fine tuned)


CnQ has to be off while testing for stability. I enable that afterwords to keep it cooler and safe some energy. But you can keep it off if it makes you feel better.
C1E and C6 I would leave disabled.
SVM speaks for itself.
HPC Mode, I don't have that on my board. Some experience errors with it enabled, others with it disabled. So test things out.
APM Master-Mode definitely off. Lowers the power of the CPU to keep it below TDP if I'm right. Test on and off with Intel Burn Test and compare the results.

Hope this helps.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I would back down a bit if I were you. You are over max temps for the cores. Socket is just cutting it. 4.6 is nice for the cooling you have. My h100 lets me clock to 4.8 max. *edit: Misread that you have a fx-6300. H100 lets me clock my fx-8320 to ~4.8.
> But don't say it is stable after you tested for 2 hours. Preferably run it overnight(12 hours) or at least 6 hours.
> 
> And what you said about smallFFTs is true. It is generally to reach the peak temps to see if the cooling takes it.
> SmallFFTs hardly test the RAM and thus blend is tested afterwards to test for stability. To test blend after each setting change for a couple of hours would take too much time.
> 
> Ohh yeah and try to avoid settings things to AUTO. Especially voltage settings. So set the cpu-nb manually. Can giving your ram settings and NB frequency you should set it between 1.25v and 1.30v.
> 
> And if you can try to tighten the ram down a bit. Maybe a small bump in voltage. 2038 mhz cl 10 is a bit slow IMO.


Remember that was the max temp it reached, but it would stabilize at 62'c, and for socket it would stablize at 69c.

To me its stable, I used to only test my stability using small FFT, running that for 12 hours and I used to think that was enough. I ran my computer for 3 months straight like that, gaming, video editing, streaming, web browsing etc, never had a crash or error. Than few days ago I did a blend test just for kicks and it error out within 1 hour. So basically what I am trying to say for my type of usage 2 hours of prime95 blend error free is stable for me









And my ram settings, I'll mess with it more just haven't had time to get a better cas setting on it, since I pretty much spent all day yesterday just getting extra 100mhz stable off my chip lol.
But just for reference I want to show you that my memory ain't slow, here are the differences with the stock manufacture required settings and my oc settings for the ram.

*Manufacture recommended settings 1866/9-10-9-28*


*My OC settings 2038/10-11-10-28*


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> Remember that was the max temp it reached, but it would stabilize at 62'c, and for socket it would stablize at 69c.
> 
> To me its stable, I used to only test my stability using small FFT, running that for 12 hours and I used to think that was enough. I ran my computer for 3 months straight like that, gaming, video editing, streaming, web browsing etc, never had a crash or error. Than few days ago I did a blend test just for kicks and it error out within 1 hour. So basically what I am trying to say for my type of usage 2 hours of prime95 blend error free is stable for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And my ram settings, I'll mess with it more just haven't had time to get a better cas setting on it, since I pretty much spent all day yesterday just getting extra 100mhz stable off my chip lol.
> But just for reference I want to show you that my memory ain't slow, here are the differences with the stock manufacture required settings and my oc settings for the ram.
> 
> *Manufacture recommended settings 1866/9-10-9-28*
> 
> 
> *My OC settings 2038/10-11-10-28*


Ok I get back to that. Should leave your ram as it is.









But about the stable issue. I have been there, done that.
I also said ahh it runs my games and everything else without problems.

But then I found out that running stable, which probably will be with a slightly lower clock actually gave me better performance...
Run a few benchmarks and compare the stuff. Preferably 3D Mark as that uses the cpu nicely.

What are your typical gaming sessions? I mean how long in a row?
Most guys advice to make it blend stable at the longest session you normally stress the cpu with daily use.
Understand what I mean?

Your acquired settings you have now are nice nonetheless.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ok I get back to that. Should leave your ram as it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But about the stable issue. I have been there, done that.
> I also said ahh it runs my games and everything else without problems.
> 
> But then I found out that running stable, which probably will be with a slightly lower clock actually gave me better performance...
> Run a few benchmarks and compare the stuff. Preferably 3D Mark as that uses the cpu nicely.
> 
> What are your typical gaming sessions? I mean how long in a row?
> Most guys advice to make it blend stable at the longest session you normally stress the cpu with daily use.
> Understand what I mean?
> 
> Your acquired settings you have now are nice nonetheless.


4.6ghz

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1079134

4.7ghz

http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1094638

The physics score shows the improvement

I am a competitive CS:GO player and there are days I play it for 6-8 hours straight while streaming on twitch. I also play battlefield 3 for hours on end. Never had a problem.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> 4.6ghz
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1079134
> 
> 4.7ghz
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1094638
> 
> The physics score shows the improvement
> 
> I am a competitive CS:GO player and there are days I play it for 6-8 hours straight while streaming on twitch. I also play battlefield 3 for hours on end. Never had a problem.


I am not saying you will see shutdowns or error's or whatever.
It's just like when it is not stable it has to re-calculate things. So when you are stable you actually get better performance.

Just a tip. Do what feels good for you. Not like I want to attack you or something.









But its pretty clear that CS GO will give no problems as that will probably hardly use the cpu.

Just for the fun of it. Here's the results of a run I did.
*note I now use 4gb of ram instead of 8 because 1 stick is faulty, going to send it for RMA. With 8gb physics will probably will be higher.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/1560660


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I am not saying you will see shutdowns or error's or whatever.
> It's just like when it is not stable it has to re-calculate things. So when you are stable you actually get better performance.
> 
> Just a tip. Do what feels good for you. Not like I want to attack you or something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *But its pretty clear that CS GO will give no problems as that will probably hardly use the cpu*.


And that is why the word stable is subjective my friend.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I am not saying you will see shutdowns or error's or whatever.
> It's just like when it is not stable it has to re-calculate things. So when you are stable you actually get better performance.
> 
> Just a tip. Do what feels good for you. Not like I want to attack you or something.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But its pretty clear that CS GO will give no problems as that will probably hardly use the cpu.
> 
> Just for the fun of it. Here's the results of a run I did.
> *note I now use 4gb of ram instead of 8 because 1 stick is faulty, going to send it for RMA. With 8gb physics will probably will be higher.
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/1560660


My game of choice is CS:GO as well. It is primarily a CPU based game but the engine is old enough that it doesn't stress the CPU near as much as other things.

I'm able to run my 4850mhz overclock all night long in CS without a single hiccup and i'm definitely not 20 minutes prime stable on those settings.

*Question:I notice a hissing coming from my speakers when I start prime95 stability test...any idea why?*

I'm also having weird issues with my logitech usb headset , also noticed my death adder didn't like the USB 3.0 port all of a sudden and wouldn't power on. Hopefully my board isn't toasted.

*I made a separate post in the AMD CPU thread about my 8350 and throttling issues I can't seem to figure out. If anyone gets time to chime in I would greatly appreciate it.*


----------



## om3nz

After adding some ghetto cooling to m5a99fx PRO r2.0 VRMs, I have encountered more throttling issues after 20mins of prime95. So I have added a fan on the back of the motherboard and it helped. Some photos of my ghetto cooling setup







. Any suggestions for a permanent fan positioning?


Cable management is crap because I am waiting for a PSU replacement and this is a temporary solution.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *om3nz*
> 
> After adding some ghetto cooling to m5a99fx PRO r2.0 VRMs, I have encountered more throttling issues after 20mins of prime95. So I have added a fan on the back of the motherboard and it helped. Some photos of my ghetto cooling setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Any suggestions for a permanent fan positioning?
> 
> 
> Cable management is crap because I am waiting for a PSU replacement and this is a temporary solution.


You can buy a slim 120mm fan. I searched newegg for 120mm slim, just barely fits between the case and the motherboard, case doesn't quite look 100% on correctly. Before watercooling it seemed to do a great job but now I really don't know much of a difference, I think I may have an airflow issue where I'm getting stagnant air due to pressure's being to close together.

I'm having crazy throttling on the m5a99x, I have never noticed it before but all of a sudden its my primary issue. No idea why it just started, rather disappointed at this point. Didn't realize this board sucks so bad.


----------



## Moragg

How are people reducing their socket temps? My core (1055T) reaches 50C but socket reaches 72C so I don't go further. It's an M5A99FX Pro R2.0

That said, I suspect I can clock further since the board only forces 100% fan speed when socket reaches 75C.

To confirm - core temps are the sensors inside the CPU, and socket temps are sensors in the socket?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *om3nz*
> 
> After adding some ghetto cooling to m5a99fx PRO r2.0 VRMs, I have encountered more throttling issues after 20mins of prime95. So I have added a fan on the back of the motherboard and it helped. Some photos of my ghetto cooling setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Any suggestions for a permanent fan positioning?
> 
> 
> Cable management is crap because I am waiting for a PSU replacement and this is a temporary solution.


The more posts I see about this issues the more I actually think like: what are we doing?

We buy AIO cooling solutions to make it cooler and more silent right?
But then we encounter other problems....

Add a couple of fans which make it look ridiculous and probably sound louder then having a high-end air cooler. Also the costs of fan add up to the mix.
If we just bought a nice double tower air cooler the chip would be at least as cool was with the single 120mm rad and the vrm's and NB would be cooled by the airflow as well.

If my h100 dies on me I will probably buy a big ass heatsink again like the (good)old days, or if my budget allows it go full out and put everything under water(including the vrm's and NB).

Anybody feels what I am saying?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> How are people reducing their socket temps? My core (1055T) reaches 50C but socket reaches 72C so I don't go further. It's an M5A99FX Pro R2.0
> 
> That said, I suspect I can clock further since the board only forces 100% fan speed when socket reaches 75C.
> 
> To confirm - core temps are the sensors inside the CPU, and socket temps are sensors in the socket?


Core temps are the temps of the actual cores in the cpu. And the socket is the cpu temp itself, sometimes called the die. Nothing to do with the socket itself(motherboard).


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> The more posts I see about this issues the more I actually think like: what are we doing?
> 
> We buy AIO cooling solutions to make it cooler and more silent right?
> But then we encounter other problems....
> 
> Add a couple of fans which make it look ridiculous and probably sound louder then having a high-end air cooler. Also the costs of fan add up to the mix.
> If we just bought a nice double tower air cooler the chip would be at least as cool was with the single 120mm rad and the vrm's and NB would be cooled by the airflow as well.
> 
> If my h100 dies on me I will probably buy a big ass heatsink again like the (good)old days, or if my budget allows it go full out and put everything under water(including the vrm's and NB).
> 
> Anybody feels what I am saying?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Core temps are the temps of the actual cores in the cpu. And the socket is the cpu temp itself, sometimes called the die. Nothing to do with the socket itself(motherboard).


I'm starting to think it's just the board and no matter what type of cooling you throw at it, it's just not happening. I seriously had my double window fan blowing 35-45F air directly onto my board last night and still was being throttled even though my socket temperature would not go over 64C...I mean if socket temperature is only 64C could my VRMs really be over heating and holding me back?

i swear this wasn't happening before yesterday but now I'm at a loss of what could be happening. Why am I throttling when socket is only 64C??

I have 2 bgears 100CFM fans sucking air in the front, I moved another 120mm Fan in front as well. I have the tt water 2.0 extreme in the front of the case pulling air with its 2 fans. I have the stock amd fan taped/blowing air directly on the VRM below the CPU, I have a side case fan blowing directly onto the other. A 200mm top fan and 120mm fan exhaust. I have a fan blowing on or blowing away from CPU socket depending on my testing.

This is all with my ambient room temperatures in the mid 50s and the case close to the window either bringing air in front outside or being forced air from the double window fan.

Sigh


----------



## om3nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> You can buy a slim 120mm fan. I searched newegg for 120mm slim, just barely fits between the case and the motherboard, case doesn't quite look 100% on correctly. Before watercooling it seemed to do a great job but now I really don't know much of a difference, I think I may have an airflow issue where I'm getting stagnant air due to pressure's being to close together.
> 
> I'm having crazy throttling on the m5a99x, I have never noticed it before but all of a sudden its my primary issue. No idea why it just started, rather disappointed at this point. Didn't realize this board sucks so bad.


I have found a slim fan in my local stores that should fit between the motherboard tray and the case side panel.







I am disappointed in m5a99fx too, I hoped that it could handle at least 4.5GHz @ 1.4 volts without hassle. Now I have ghetto cooling everywhere.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *om3nz*
> 
> I have found a slim fan in my local stores that should fit between the motherboard tray and the case side panel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am disappointed in m5a99fx too, I hoped that it could handle at least 4.5GHz @ 1.4 volts without hassle. Now I have ghetto cooling everywhere.


I'm currently testing 4700mhz @ 213FSB w/ 1.45vcore. Max temp so far on socket is 59C and I haven't seen the throttling kick in yet. Will post back when i find my limits to maybe help others.

I looked at the recommended boards and it looks like we jump up above $140. At this point I don't even know why I'm overclocking this chip. I enjoy the hobby but I could have definitely just bought a different chip that gets me the same performance. Oh well, live and learn and OC'g is fun at least


----------



## edwardm

awesome thread, thanks for putting it together!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I'm starting to think it's just the board and no matter what type of cooling you throw at it, it's just not happening. I seriously had my double window fan blowing 35-45F air directly onto my board last night and still was being throttled even though my socket temperature would not go over 64C...I mean if socket temperature is only 64C could my VRMs really be over heating and holding me back?
> 
> i swear this wasn't happening before yesterday but now I'm at a loss of what could be happening. Why am I throttling when socket is only 64C??
> 
> I have 2 bgears 100CFM fans sucking air in the front, I moved another 120mm Fan in front as well. I have the tt water 2.0 extreme in the front of the case pulling air with its 2 fans. I have the stock amd fan taped/blowing air directly on the VRM below the CPU, I have a side case fan blowing directly onto the other. A 200mm top fan and 120mm fan exhaust. I have a fan blowing on or blowing away from CPU socket depending on my testing.
> 
> This is all with my ambient room temperatures in the mid 50s and the case close to the window either bringing air in front outside or being forced air from the double window fan.
> 
> Sigh


I don't know the full story.
Have you tried setting things back to stock? Or is it at stock?

If it is happening from one to the other day without changing settings it looks like something is going down south.
How is your psu?


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I don't know the full story.
> Have you tried setting things back to stock? Or is it at stock?
> 
> If it is happening from one to the other day without changing settings it looks like something is going down south.
> How is your psu?


Stock settings things run fine. It's when I overclock slightly that things go south.

The PSU may not be adequate. It's a 600 bronze running...
1 Sata HDD
6x120mm Fan 3 of which have LEDs
1x200mm Fan
1x Thermaltake water pump
1x 9800 gtx video card
3x USB devices (keyboard, mouse, gaming headset)

When I look at the voltages in OCCT they are all within acceptable limits. My other post here in AMD CPUs has screenshots of those voltages.

Could it still be the power supply even though voltages look to be fine? I'm trying to figure out what the best bang for buck power supply is out there for my wattage area, but also don't want to spend too little that I just get another not capable PS.

I have had the computer hesitate to come on when its cold


----------



## Overkill

Connect a voltmeter directly to your 12v rail on your PSU to see the actual voltage, fluctuation, and vDrop under load. Software voltage readings for power supplies aren't always trustworthy. HWmonitor lists wild numbers when my psu is actually rock solid with a voltmeter.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Overkill*
> 
> Connect a voltmeter directly to your 12v rail on your PSU to see the actual voltage, fluctuation, and vDrop under load. Software voltage readings for power supplies aren't always trustworthy. HWmonitor lists wild numbers when my psu is actually rock solid with a voltmeter.


I'll get the voltmeter out tonight and see how stable my voltages are. Guess I should have already done this


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Stock settings things run fine. It's when I overclock slightly that things go south.
> 
> The PSU may not be adequate. It's a 600 bronze running...
> 1 Sata HDD
> 6x120mm Fan 3 of which have LEDs
> 1x200mm Fan
> 1x Thermaltake water pump
> 1x 9800 gtx video card
> 3x USB devices (keyboard, mouse, gaming headset)
> 
> When I look at the voltages in OCCT they are all within acceptable limits. My other post here in AMD CPUs has screenshots of those voltages.
> 
> Could it still be the power supply even though voltages look to be fine? I'm trying to figure out what the best bang for buck power supply is out there for my wattage area, but also don't want to spend too little that I just get another not capable PS.
> 
> I have had the computer hesitate to come on when its cold


You can do a simple test by unplugging all the fans except the cpu cooler fans and see if there is any difference.
But I think 600 watt should be enough. How old is the psu?

If it hesitates to come on sometimes something definitely is wrong.

If you have the funds upgrading the psu is always good.
If the budget allows look at either a Corsair HX series or a Seasonic G-Serie,
Cooler-Master V700 is also a decent psu. Also good priced.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> You can do a simple test by unplugging all the fans except the cpu cooler fans and see if there is any difference.
> But I think 600 watt should be enough. How old is the psu?
> 
> If it hesitates to come on sometimes something definitely is wrong.
> 
> If you have the funds upgrading the psu is always good.
> If the budget allows look at either a Corsair HX series or a Seasonic G-Serie,
> Cooler-Master V700 is also a decent psu. Also good priced.


PSU is brand new with this build.

It really may be throttling due to VRM heat issues since I've seen others with this board have the issue. I'll test the power tonight with the multi-meter and see whats going on.

Any idea what the motherboard temperature reading is in hwmonitor? I've seen it @ 19C most of the time, I've seen it @ 32C and this morning it was around 2C when I had the intake fans close to the window and 30ish degrees outside.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> PSU is brand new with this build.
> 
> It really may be throttling due to VRM heat issues since I've seen others with this board have the issue. I'll test the power tonight with the multi-meter and see whats going on.
> 
> Any idea what the motherboard temperature reading is in hwmonitor? I've seen it @ 19C most of the time, I've seen it @ 32C and this morning it was around 2C when I had the intake fans close to the window and 30ish degrees outside.


2c seems a like a read error to me.
No way you get that low with air cooling.









Care to post a shot of idle and load temps(hwmonitor)?

Going to get some shuteye now, will get back to you tomorrow.

Good night all.


----------



## aas88keyz

Had to do some searching to re-obtain this but here is some advice on cpu throttling (Or core parking as it is called). It is my understanding that this is not as much an issue with windows 8 but it is an issue for Windows 7. Note that there are patches to download for Microsoft Windows which helps but there are additional fixes that better improve core parking. Use it at your own discretion. If you need any further info on my experience on this let me know and I will answer to the best of my ability.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> PSU is brand new with this build.
> 
> It really may be throttling due to VRM heat issues since I've seen others with this board have the issue. I'll test the power tonight with the multi-meter and see whats going on.
> 
> Any idea what the motherboard temperature reading is in hwmonitor? I've seen it @ 19C most of the time, I've seen it @ 32C and this morning it was around 2C when I had the intake fans close to the window and 30ish degrees outside.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> ...Now I got a new problem and just tell me if this does not belong in this thread. Whenever I have the cpu and/or gpu at load for any period of time the cpu usage throttles down to 0% every two to 5 minutes, a couple seconds a piece, killing my smp folding. I have tried everything a lot of things to stop this from happening but I am just not finding the right setting i guess somewhere. Why should my cpu core at 53*C throttle so much and so often. C6, C1, APM. Cool n' Quiet. all disabled. Don't know what I am doing wrong. The performance out of this machine is good for what it is but I need consistency for what I use it for. Any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Had to quote myself since no one commented on it but I believe I found the solution to my problem. My cpu wouldn't throttle to 0% usage every few second which left my oc useless when it came to requiring my system to process at full load. I did the research but found nothing on throttling until I looked deeper and they called it CPU "core parking" I found a fix through the registry that one website "recommended" (they actually were against it but gave me the info to change it anyway). I later found there is programs that can do the same thing "safely" I used _process lasso_ that I actually already installed a while ago. *(There are smaller more affordable "free" software solutions that I have found since.)*It was worth the risk for me as I went from 100% to 0% every handful of seconds to it only throttling for one second in 15 minutes. I regained 8 kppd in folding points that I had lost while folding all 8 cores on my fx-8120. This makes what I paid for the bulldozer cpu almost worth it in performance. This may not work for everyone and again not many sites or forums condone it so do your research if find an interest in it. If anyone has any questions of what I know or where you can find the info on this feel free to ask me and I will try to answer to the best of my abililty.
> 
> Keep on foldin'!
Click to expand...


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 2c seems a like a read error to me.
> No way you get that low with air cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Care to post a shot of idle and load temps(hwmonitor)?
> 
> Going to get some shuteye now, will get back to you tomorrow.
> 
> Good night all.


*Load 4500mhz overclock* (Ambient 74.5, window to outside isn't open at this time)
*Please reference Max column for temperature, this was 8k-8k Test in prime*


*Idle 4500mhz overclock*



*Voltages tested with mutlimeter*

*12V Load*: 11.99 - 12.02
IDLE: 12.13 - 12.14

*5V Load*: 5.10
IDLE: 5.05-5.06

*3.3V Load*: 3.30 - 3.32
Idle: 3.32

I can post some tests @ 4600mhz where I start getting throttling even with the windows open which drops temperatures significantly


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> *Load 4500mhz overclock* (Ambient 74.5, window to outside isn't open at this time)
> *Please reference Max column for temperature, this was 8k-8k Test in prime*
> 
> 
> *Idle 4500mhz overclock*
> 
> 
> 
> *Voltages tested with mutlimeter*
> 
> *12V Load*: 11.99 - 12.02
> IDLE: 12.13 - 12.14
> 
> *5V Load*: 5.10
> IDLE: 5.05-5.06
> 
> *3.3V Load*: 3.30 - 3.32
> Idle: 3.32
> 
> I can post some tests @ 4600mhz where I start getting throttling even with the windows open which drops temperatures significantly


Looks like you have no reading of the VRM temp.

Voltage readings look fine. Optimally you want the 12v rail to be at least 12v under load but 11,99 shouldn't make a difference I guess.

cpu 0 would be the cores
cpu would be socket
motherboard i'm not so sure but I guess that would be the Northbridge temp.

If you want you can send pics of the 4.6ghz tests. But looking at the current socket temp with the 4.5 clock you might very well be temp limited here. Especially if you need to raise the vcore.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Looks like you have no reading of the VRM temp.
> 
> Voltage readings look fine. Optimally you want the 12v rail to be at least 12v under load but 11,99 shouldn't make a difference I guess.
> 
> cpu 0 would be the cores
> cpu would be socket
> motherboard i'm not so sure but I guess that would be the Northbridge temp.
> 
> If you want you can send pics of the 4.6ghz tests. But looking at the current socket temp with the 4.5 clock you might very well be temp limited here. Especially if you need to raise the vcore.


Overnight I ran prime blend with the window open to lower my ambient. I ran this @ 4600mhz

cpu voltage: 1.41875
cpu/nb: 1.16250
Dram 1.495
Stock Everything else

Started Prime blend at 12:06AM
Stopped Prime @ 7:06AM

0 workers failed. Look at the max temps, they don't even break 52 @ the socket. Mmmmm.

The only reason it was so hot on the other test was the windows were closed and my room was 75F. Granted i won't run this with the window open but i also won't stress it like the 8k test either.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Overnight I ran prime blend with the window open to lower my ambient. I ran this @ 4600mhz
> 
> cpu voltage: 1.41875
> cpu/nb: 1.16250
> Dram 1.495
> Stock Everything else
> 
> Started Prime blend at 12:06AM
> Stopped Prime @ 7:06AM
> 
> 0 workers failed. Look at the max temps, they don't even break 52 @ the socket. Mmmmm.
> 
> The only reason it was so hot on the other test was the windows were closed and my room was 75F. Granted i won't run this with the window open but i also won't stress it like the 8k test either.


Looking at those temps I would try to get higher if I were you.








I'm a bit amazed your core temps are so much lower then the socket....

And that motherboard temp really looks like a faulty reading to me.








But that's no problem. As long as you don't encounter error's or whatever.

I think your cooling will at least handle another voltage bump with the max clock on that voltage.

But if you think this is a nice clock you can leave it.
Honestly you don't need more for regular usage. Unless you do something very cpu heavy, rendering/folding etc.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Looking at those temps I would try to get higher if I were you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm a bit amazed your core temps are so much lower then the socket....
> 
> And that motherboard temp really looks like a faulty reading to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But that's no problem. As long as you don't encounter error's or whatever.
> 
> I think your cooling will at least handle another voltage bump with the max clock on that voltage.
> 
> But if you think this is a nice clock you can leave it.
> Honestly you don't need more for regular usage. Unless you do something very cpu heavy, rendering/folding etc.


I'd like to go higher but I tried 4700mhz again this morning and during the 8k test I got the throttling even though I didn't break 54C @ socket and around 36C at cores.

I placed ANOTHER fan blowing sort of underneath the heatsink to actually hit those MOSFETS, very weird setup at this point blowing air on those suckers, currently I've been running a test @ 4660 with very little voltage increase over my 4600..prime stable so far. However I'm again bringing in cold air form outside. I've had people tell me this board is good for more, but I honestly don't know. I guess the easiest way to go higher is buy another board, not sure if there are air cooled VRM heatsink options that are cheap.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

I have not yet started my overclock. However, I have a very big problem. ASUS has their own software that tweaks your CPU. It turned me up to 4.3ghz. Ever since that has happened, I have experienced system crashing while playing video games. And then today, even just playing an online video. Sound and then video stutters, then the whole system either crashes or restarts.

I have tried to reset the cpu ghz back down to 4.0 and it wont let me (via the ASUS software). When I ask it to return to stock settings it does its thing, restarts, and its still at 4.3ghz.

My main question is, could I be undervolted and could this be causing my crashes? If so, what should my voltage be at (approx) for 4.3? I really shouldnt have any problems at 4.3 but I am. The system is not stable. And it was just stable a few weeks ago. I figured I would ask here first before I made a new thread on this topic


----------



## chiznitz

uninstall the asus software.

Reboot, press delete during the reboot, once in bios press f5 to restore defaults.

You should be able to do that overclock on stock voltage, follow the guide on page 1 to achieve what you are after, don't let asus do its auto overclock stuff. I did it for fun and then ran prime after and had all kinds of issues.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Yeah totally. I think I will uninstall the ASUS software. I was really just curious to see what it would actually do.

However, I have a few problems. The DIGI+ settings on page 1 do not exist on my mobo (and that is where a lot of important settings are according to this guide) This is odd because I have the same model mobo. Also my HT Link speed does not go any higher than 2400mhz. The recommended settings are for 2600. And there are other issues/discrepancies from page 1 guide that I can not apply to my system. This means I really do not have a thorough and stable starting point.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DMatthewStewart*
> 
> Yeah totally. I think I will uninstall the ASUS software. I was really just curious to see what it would actually do.
> 
> However, I have a few problems. The DIGI+ settings on page 1 do not exist on my mobo (and that is where a lot of important settings are according to this guide) This is odd because I have the same model mobo. Also my HT Link speed does not go any higher than 2400mhz. The recommended settings are for 2600. And there are other issues/discrepancies from page 1 guide that I can not apply to my system. This means I really do not have a thorough and stable starting point.


Is your bios up to date?

For what it's worth I still find the aisuite useful for minor tuning. When i have a stable overclock i set that in bios and make minor tweaks through AISuite. I've disabled the task that starts aisuite and I've set its services to manual..it's a real hog on system resources and makes my razor synapse application crash on startup.


----------



## DMatthewStewart

Youre right, it is a little hog on resources. What do you think I should do about not having the DIGI+ in my Bios? It seems that there are too many important settings in that sub-menu. I cant just ignore them or proceed for a stable overclock without being able to get to those settings (or their equivalent). Just for the record, I really hate windows. It seems nothing ever works properly right out of the box.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I'd like to go higher but I tried 4700mhz again this morning and during the 8k test I got the throttling even though I didn't break 54C @ socket and around 36C at cores.
> 
> I placed ANOTHER fan blowing sort of underneath the heatsink to actually hit those MOSFETS, very weird setup at this point blowing air on those suckers, currently I've been running a test @ 4660 with very little voltage increase over my 4600..prime stable so far. However I'm again bringing in cold air form outside. I've had people tell me this board is good for more, but I honestly don't know. I guess the easiest way to go higher is buy another board, not sure if there are air cooled VRM heatsink options that are cheap.


Yeah I would do some search on universal VRM sinks first.

If you can manage to fit something like this you can easily manage to slam a fan on it.
Should work properly if it is indeed the vrm's getting too hot which causes the throttling.

A worthy option IMO.
Definitely cheaper then buying another board.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah I would do some search on universal VRM sinks first.
> 
> If you can manage to fit something like this you can easily manage to slam a fan on it.
> Should work properly if it is indeed the vrm's getting too hot which causes the throttling.
> 
> A worthy option IMO.
> Definitely cheaper then buying another board.


Well I have good news. I formatted today and reinstalled windows 7. So far no throttling whatsoever. I think AMD Overdrive did something that wasn't turned off when it was removed.

I'm still locking up when I try to bump up above 4750mhz but I can play around with that. May be my power supply just sucks, either way I'm super stoked.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I'd like to go higher but I tried 4700mhz again this morning and during the 8k test I got the throttling even though I didn't break 54C @ socket and around 36C at cores.
> 
> I placed ANOTHER fan blowing sort of underneath the heatsink to actually hit those MOSFETS, very weird setup at this point blowing air on those suckers, currently I've been running a test @ 4660 with very little voltage increase over my 4600..prime stable so far. However I'm again bringing in cold air form outside. I've had people tell me this board is good for more, but I honestly don't know. I guess the easiest way to go higher is buy another board, not sure if there are air cooled VRM heatsink options that are cheap.


You shouldn't have any throttling with those temps on that MB. I have that MB and it doesn't even throttle when I hit 70C core, 76C socket. No fan on VRM's. You might have a defective MB.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> You shouldn't have any throttling with those temps on that MB. I have that MB and it doesn't even throttle when I hit 80C core, 76C socket. No fan on VRM's. You might have a defective MB.


Could just as well be.


----------



## stampee

Hi all: I used the guide (THANKS so much) and reached 5ghz last night on my fx8350, specs in my sig. I had to raise cpu VDDA voltage to do so. raising the cpu core voltage just would not do it. My core voltage is now 1.453125 as set in bios.
I have a few questions however. The most serious: my cpu temp under wprime load is 69C this is with hardware monitor and reading the package temp.
I installed a cpu base fan as suggested and a fan to the backplane as well. These helped lower the socket temps.
I now show the following temps Mainboard 29C, socket temp 61C and package temp 69C
I understand that package' is the actual cpu core temp?
With this noctua air cooler I would think my temps should be lower. Especially when my mainboard and socket temps are so low. I have fan user profles set to ensure my fans are running full speed.
I removed the heat sink and cleaned the thermal paste and reapplied a very thin film. It made no difference at all.
Currently my push/pull fans are blowing upwards out of the case. I am sure they are not reversed, or fighting each other.
Also I tried going to the Noctua company pages, and google says they are offline. Has the company gone out of business?
Any advice on bringing the temps down would be appreciated.
OH and by the way I saw a max of 74C while flying in FSX. I did not run a long prime95, so it may not be STABLE as the rest of you are doing, but It does what I want, which is run my games.
2) If I enable cool N Quiet then I cannot even boot into windows. What is up with that?
it is always greyed out. I have to set default settings, enable CnQ then set my overclock settings, then the bios greys out cNq again, but it now says enabled when it is greyed out.
This worked for lower clock settings but is not for 5ghz.
Below are my current settings in bios.
cpu ratio 25
cpu freq 200
cpu NB 2200
ht link 2200 The highest my board will go. The guide said 2600
dram 1600
cpu volt 1.453125
cpu/nb volt 1.28125
cpu vdda 2.8
dram volt 1.5

Thank you
-Stampee


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stampee*
> 
> Hi all: I used the guide (THANKS so much) and reached 5ghz last night on my fx8350, specs in my sig. I had to raise cpu VDDA voltage to do so. raising the cpu core voltage just would not do it. My core voltage is now 1.453125 as set in bios.
> I have a few questions however. The most serious: my cpu temp under wprime load is 69C this is with hardware monitor and reading the package temp.
> I installed a cpu base fan as suggested and a fan to the backplane as well. These helped lower the socket temps.
> I now show the following temps Mainboard 29C, socket temp 61C and package temp 69C
> I understand that package' is the actual cpu core temp?
> With this noctua air cooler I would think my temps should be lower. Especially when my mainboard and socket temps are so low. I have fan user profles set to ensure my fans are running full speed.
> I removed the heat sink and cleaned the thermal paste and reapplied a very thin film. It made no difference at all.
> Currently my push/pull fans are blowing upwards out of the case. I am sure they are not reversed, or fighting each other.
> Also I tried going to the Noctua company pages, and google says they are offline. Has the company gone out of business?
> Any advice on bringing the temps down would be appreciated.
> OH and by the way I saw a max of 74C while flying in FSX. I did not run a long prime95, so it may not be STABLE as the rest of you are doing, but It does what I want, which is run my games.
> 2) If I enable cool N Quiet then I cannot even boot into windows. What is up with that?
> it is always greyed out. I have to set default settings, enable CnQ then set my overclock settings, then the bios greys out cNq again, but it now says enabled when it is greyed out.
> This worked for lower clock settings but is not for 5ghz.
> Below are my current settings in bios.
> cpu ratio 25
> cpu freq 200
> cpu NB 2200
> ht link 2200 The highest my board will go. The guide said 2600
> dram 1600
> cpu volt 1.453125
> cpu/nb volt 1.28125
> cpu vdda 2.8
> dram volt 1.5
> 
> Thank you
> -Stampee


That NH-U12P only has 4 heat pipes compared to the NH-D14 which has 6 this helps explain the temps you're seeing.
I doubt 1.453 Vcore will be very stable, seems very low for 5.0.
Are you using Manual Voltage Mode for Vcore? To have C&Q function you'll need to run "Offset Voltage Mode" when using the higher multipliers.
The CPU VDDA of 2.8 seems excessive for an Asus mobo. I find only a slight increase helps but to much seems to hurt my stability.
You may find additional Dram voltage (+.05 to .1) may help at the higher clocks as well as possibly more CPU/NB voltage.
I'd try a bit longer using less VDDA + above.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stampee*
> 
> Hi all: I used the guide (THANKS so much) and reached 5ghz last night on my fx8350, specs in my sig. I had to raise cpu VDDA voltage to do so. raising the cpu core voltage just would not do it. My core voltage is now 1.453125 as set in bios.
> I have a few questions however. The most serious: my cpu temp under wprime load is 69C this is with hardware monitor and reading the package temp.
> I installed a cpu base fan as suggested and a fan to the backplane as well. These helped lower the socket temps.
> I now show the following temps Mainboard 29C, socket temp 61C and package temp 69C
> I understand that package' is the actual cpu core temp?
> With this noctua air cooler I would think my temps should be lower. Especially when my mainboard and socket temps are so low. I have fan user profles set to ensure my fans are running full speed.
> I removed the heat sink and cleaned the thermal paste and reapplied a very thin film. It made no difference at all.
> Currently my push/pull fans are blowing upwards out of the case. I am sure they are not reversed, or fighting each other.
> Also I tried going to the Noctua company pages, and google says they are offline. Has the company gone out of business?
> Any advice on bringing the temps down would be appreciated.
> OH and by the way I saw a max of 74C while flying in FSX. I did not run a long prime95, so it may not be STABLE as the rest of you are doing, but It does what I want, which is run my games.
> 2) If I enable cool N Quiet then I cannot even boot into windows. What is up with that?
> it is always greyed out. I have to set default settings, enable CnQ then set my overclock settings, then the bios greys out cNq again, but it now says enabled when it is greyed out.
> This worked for lower clock settings but is not for 5ghz.
> Below are my current settings in bios.
> cpu ratio 25
> cpu freq 200
> cpu NB 2200
> ht link 2200 The highest my board will go. The guide said 2600
> dram 1600
> cpu volt 1.453125
> cpu/nb volt 1.28125
> cpu vdda 2.8
> dram volt 1.5
> 
> Thank you
> -Stampee


2.8 on cpu vdda holy moly


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> You shouldn't have any throttling with those temps on that MB. I have that MB and it doesn't even throttle when I hit 80C core, 76C socket. No fan on VRM's. You might have a defective MB.


Wonder if I should just get ready to RMA this sucker. I thought the throttling was gone but its still here. I'm so frustrated, thought I had it nicked.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Wonder if I should just get ready to RMA this sucker. I thought the throttling was gone but its still here. I'm so frustrated, thought I had it nicked.


Don't wonder, just do it. Don't waste your time fixing a defective MB.


----------



## stampee

Thanks much Sandman: I will lower the cpu VDDA and see what happens. I do not understand the offset voltage mode. What figures do I enter for 1.453125?
Every time I have attempted using offset mode it scared the heck out of me not knowing what the numbers were doing.
I guess the temps are inline with the best this cooler can do. I wont keep tearing my hair out with the cooler then, and will get a better one someday.
-Stampee


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImJJames*
> 
> Don't wonder, just do it. Don't waste your time fixing a defective MB.


I wonder if the power supply could be sending some power over the line in a way that would make things run hotter. It looks fine on a multimeter but maybe it's not delivering clean power?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stampee*
> 
> Thanks much Sandman: I will lower the cpu VDDA and see what happens. I do not understand the offset voltage mode. What figures do I enter for 1.453125?
> Every time I have attempted using offset mode it scared the heck out of me not knowing what the numbers were doing.
> I guess the temps are inline with the best this cooler can do. I wont keep tearing my hair out with the cooler then, and will get a better one someday.
> -Stampee


I'm in the same boat as you. I thought I was setting everything correctly with offset but just couldn't get anything stable at all.

I picked up the thermaltake water 2.0 extreme for $59.99 after rebate from newegg so if you're cooler is new you could rma and pick this one up cheap









However, if I had the time and money a custom loop would have been best, I have a very hard time keeping the socket temperatures down even with a fan blowing hard on them.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stampee*
> 
> Thanks much Sandman: I will lower the cpu VDDA and see what happens. I do not understand the offset voltage mode. What figures do I enter for 1.453125?
> Every time I have attempted using offset mode it scared the heck out of me not knowing what the numbers were doing.
> I guess the temps are inline with the best this cooler can do. I wont keep tearing my hair out with the cooler then, and will get a better one someday.
> -Stampee


Offset voltage works like this,
DL/run HWInfo64. Look at the Core #0 VID "Maximum" column this is your CPU VID.
Mine is 1.325 at the top below,



You use your Core #0 VID (CPU VID) as a base voltage.
Any offset voltage you add will be added to this figure. One bump of the + key adds .00625v (on my CHVZ)



Currently I run a 0.193750 offset (seen above) when added to the CPU VID of 1.325 equals 1.51875 Vcore.
The changes you make with offset voltage are not displayed in bios until after reboot, than re-enter the bios.

Note, to enlarge snips first click on snip than lower right corner and click Original.


----------



## stampee

Thank you for the images and numbers. I selected offset and just left what was there before I saw this post
then I changed the cpu vddA to 2.6 down from 2.8 and ran a test at 4900 mhz
My temps did not change, but the test completed without errors. I also have cNQ enabled, as you said, as soon as I selected offset I was able to enable it.
I downloaded hw64 thanks!
So the base core#0 vid will always be 1.325 for this motherboard? and using offset I can then add the values to it, to come up with the maximum voltage I may want?

I hate to monkey around buying and trying to sell this existing cooler. Maybe I need to take a breather for awhile and let the finances catch up before buying some expensive aggressive cooler.

I will fly awhile and see what hw64 records as max temperatures. That is where I need it ultimately.

-Stampee


----------



## thebufenator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stampee*
> 
> I now show the following temps Mainboard 29C, socket temp 61C and package temp 69C
> ......................
> Below are my current settings in bios.
> cpu ratio 25
> cpu freq 200
> cpu NB 2200
> ht link 2200 The highest my board will go. The guide said 2600
> dram 1600
> cpu volt 1.453125
> cpu/nb volt 1.28125
> cpu vdda 2.8
> dram volt 1.5
> 
> Thank you
> -Stampee


HOLY COW........that's pretty hot. I get scared at 60c on the socket.


----------



## ImJJames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thebufenator*
> 
> HOLY COW........that's pretty hot. I get scared at 60c on the socket.


For stress testing up to 70c core is fine. Remember only stress testing will get your temps that high.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stampee*
> 
> So the base core#0 vid will always be 1.325 for this motherboard? and using offset I can then add the values to it, to come up with the maximum voltage I may want?-Stampee


Just to be clear, the 1.325 CPU VID is what my chip is, that's what I was showing you. Yours might be the same but very well could be different. It's chip dependent.
You'll obviously need to see what YOUR CPU VID is and use that figure.

The CPU VID will stay constant yes.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Just to be clear, the 1.325 CPU VID is what my chip is, that's what I was showing you. Yours might be the same but very well could be different. It's chip dependent.
> You'll obviously need to see what YOUR CPU VID is and use that figure.
> 
> The CPU VID will stay constant yes.


if I'm correct the CPU VID is the designed stock voltage...
Indeed diverse from chip to chip.

It doesn't show the actual voltage in use at that time.

For the voltage you need to scroll down a bit and read the vcore value.


----------



## aas88keyz

AMD Bulldozer max recommended temps:

72* socket
61* core


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aas88keyz*
> 
> AMD Bulldozer max recommended temps:
> 
> 72* socket
> 61* core


Recommendations are no law









You can surely take the chip to higher temps, if you are okay with it not lasting very long.
But chips will most likely be replaced in 1 or 2 years anyway.

I do like to keep my chips at least 5c below max though.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Recommendations are no law
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can surely take the chip to higher temps, if you are okay with it not lasting very long.
> But chips will most likely be replaced in 1 or 2 years anyway.
> 
> I do like to keep my chips at least 5c below max though.


Agreed! I've been using 72C Socket / 62C Core as a general guideline, but allow for up to 75C Socket / 68C Core while running the various Prime95 torture tests. Above 75C Socket, I experience throttling... Maintaining ambient room temperature at 20C +/- 1C. This is on a CHVF-Z with a 9590 at between 1.524V and 1.56V (depending on what I'm trying to do over clock wise).

Basically, as long as you take everything in small steps, your system "should" let you know when you're hitting it's threshold: provided you correctly interpret it's subtle (or not so subtle) hints


----------



## GeToChKn

Thank you for a great guide. I've been able to hit 4.5ghz stable on my 8320, so 1.0ghz faster is a nice free boost. And I've just started tweaking and also keeping my temps down fairly low as well, as I'm sure I could higher if I wanted to push it but I like the quiet silence at 4.5ghz.

I have a 8320, 16gb GSkill Aries 1866 RAM, 7870OC, Kingston SSD. Getting a good motherboard was the key to getting a good overclock.

I had the M5A97 R2.0, and anything over 4.1ghz would freeze, restart, fail burn in, etc. No amount of settings would get it past there. Just bought the board, so brought it back and got the asus m5a99x evo r2.0. Barely messing with the settings, I am at 4.5ghz stable and I'm sure I can go faster. The better VRM's really make a difference.

I have the Seidon 240xl liquid closed loop cooler, Bitfenix ghost case and 4 case fans and the 2 fans on the rad. Max temps at 4.5ghz is about 41c core, 54c socket, so there is some room there to go, or more aggressive fan profiles might help cool that a bit but I'm going for quiet as well. I just build the system a week ago, so I'm still working on case air flow, fan placement and direction, etc.

So again, thanks for the guide. Any tips to getting socket temps lower? Can't see a way to mount a fan there. lol. I have some ideas for my air flow in my case, so we'll see.


----------



## dallas1990

I unfortunately had to return my 8320 to stock clock. My temperature probe on my mobo stopped working. And im playing it safe so I'll be getting a new mobo next week.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> I have the Seidon 240xl liquid closed loop cooler, Bitfenix ghost case and 4 case fans and the 2 fans on the rad. Max temps at 4.5ghz is about 41c core, 54c socket, so there is some room there to go, or more aggressive fan profiles might help cool that a bit but I'm going for quiet as well. I just build the system a week ago, so I'm still working on case air flow, fan placement and direction, etc.
> 
> So again, thanks for the guide. Any tips to getting socket temps lower? Can't see a way to mount a fan there. lol. I have some ideas for my air flow in my case, so we'll see.


If you don't plan to Overclock any further, I wouldn't worry about your Socket Temps: a max of 54C is well within normal operating temperature range, and it is unlikely that you will ever even hit that level again when not stress testing.

If you do plan to push further, you'll eventually need to get airflow / cooling to the back of your Motherboard (that is, when you start seeing 70C+ Socket Temps). For stress testing, I keep the side panel off and use duct tape to hold a 120mm fan in place at a 45 degree angle blowing over the CPU back plate. Depending where I end up Socket Temp wise under normal operating conditions, I may switch from my Antec 902 to an Antec 1100, as it has around 35mm clearance between the side panel and the back of the motherboard, as well as a pre-built fan position.

Enjoy your faster CPU - that's a great OC!


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> If you don't plan to Overclock any further, I wouldn't worry about your Socket Temps: a max of 54C is well within normal operating temperature range, and it is unlikely that you will ever even hit that level again when not stress testing.
> 
> If you do plan to push further, you'll eventually need to get airflow / cooling to the back of your Motherboard (that is, when you start seeing 70C+ Socket Temps). For stress testing, I keep the side panel off and use duct tape to hold a 120mm fan in place at a 45 degree angle blowing over the CPU back plate. Depending where I end up Socket Temp wise under normal operating conditions, I may switch from my Antec 902 to an Antec 1100, as it has around 35mm clearance between the side panel and the back of the motherboard, as well as a pre-built fan position.
> 
> Enjoy your faster CPU - that's a great OC!


thanks. I redid the airflow in my case and seems to be a bit better. i have my rear fan pulling in and then rad and 2 120mm fans at the top pulling out. Seems nice and cool. And yes, stress testing seems to be super loads the pc never really sees. I just played like an hour of BF3 on ultra and only hit like 40 for core, 47 for socket. i'm sure I could do more with more voltage, I'm at 4.56ghz right now with only 1.38v. Seems a good increase though for little overhead. I may try bumping up the volts to like 1.45 and see what it takes though so to see how high I can get. lol. Now I'm curious. Since I only need 1.38v for a 1ghz increase, seems like the chip could handle a lot more. I haven't even play with cpu/nb voltages or the million other settings. The 4.5ghz is 233 clock speed, which gets my ram back up to 1864mhz, and 19.5 multiplier. A few digi+ settings changed and that's about it. I think the voltage is only up 1 or 2 notches from stock. All power saving stuff still turned on, etc.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Thank you for a great guide. I've been able to hit 4.5ghz stable on my 8320, so 1.0ghz faster is a nice free boost. And I've just started tweaking and also keeping my temps down fairly low as well, as I'm sure I could higher if I wanted to push it but I like the quiet silence at 4.5ghz.
> 
> I have a 8320, 16gb GSkill Aries 1866 RAM, 7870OC, Kingston SSD. Getting a good motherboard was the key to getting a good overclock.
> 
> I had the M5A97 R2.0, and anything over 4.1ghz would freeze, restart, fail burn in, etc. No amount of settings would get it past there. Just bought the board, so brought it back and got the asus m5a99x evo r2.0. Barely messing with the settings, I am at 4.5ghz stable and I'm sure I can go faster. The better VRM's really make a difference.
> 
> I have the Seidon 240xl liquid closed loop cooler, Bitfenix ghost case and 4 case fans and the 2 fans on the rad. Max temps at 4.5ghz is about 41c core, 54c socket, so there is some room there to go, or more aggressive fan profiles might help cool that a bit but I'm going for quiet as well. I just build the system a week ago, so I'm still working on case air flow, fan placement and direction, etc.
> 
> So again, thanks for the guide. Any tips to getting socket temps lower? Can't see a way to mount a fan there. lol. I have some ideas for my air flow in my case, so we'll see.


Do you have a custom made AIO from Cooler-Master?
As far as I know there is no Seidon 240XL. Only 120XL and 240M.


----------



## GeToChKn

No, just confused them. lol. It's the 240M.

Still playing around with positive vs negative pressure for my setup to see what cools the socket the best. the cooler keeps the chip cool no problem. Thing hasn't hit 50 yet for core temps no matter what. Now it's seeing if cool air flowing over the vrm/cooler pump/socket/cpu area is better than pulling the air out. Everyone has theories,but for me, it's best to just test. run intel burn in for 10 test, look at max temp. Flip fan around, run same test, compare results. Easier than reading 154543534 messages on a thread about everyone debating whether pulling or pushing is better. It's different for each persons pc, so trial and error is always my favorite method.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> No, just confused them. lol. It's the 240M.
> 
> Still playing around with positive vs negative pressure for my setup to see what cools the socket the best. the cooler keeps the chip cool no problem. Thing hasn't hit 50 yet for core temps no matter what. Now it's seeing if cool air flowing over the vrm/cooler pump/socket/cpu area is better than pulling the air out. Everyone has theories,but for me, it's best to just test. run intel burn in for 10 test, look at max temp. Flip fan around, run same test, compare results. Easier than reading 154543534 messages on a thread about everyone debating whether pulling or pushing is better. It's different for each persons pc, so trial and error is always my favorite method.


IMO that's the proper way.








But one can read around the web to get some ideas.
Testing to see what works best in your case always is the way to go.

I mostly go for positive pressure to keep the dust out. Difference will probably be a few degrees anyway.

Do you have the cooler set as intake BTW? That can make a notable difference.

I do advice you to run prime95 smallFFTs to test temps. Makes things heat up more then Intel Burn Test. Run it for about 10 minutes.


----------



## FatedFrenzy

Hey guys. I OC'd my 8350 when I first got it back in March and got it to a stable 4.615ghz.

I recently decided to try and see if I could squeeze any more out of her as I've become a bit more proficient at OCing since. I have been unable to squeeze anything out of this puppy further. I have attempted more voltage, adjusting multiplier, adjusting FSB, more VDDC volts, etc.

Maybe my chip is at her end of OCability or maybe I'm just not putting out the right combination of things. Anyone with suggestions? My sig rig is up to date. Here are my current OC specs:

Multiplier - 23

CPU Bus Freq. - 200
CPU Vol. - 1.46875
CPU/NB Vol. - 1.26250
DRAM Vol. - 1.5
NB Vol. - 1.1
VDDA Vol. - 2.5
SB Vol. - 1.1
NB 1.8v Vol. - 1.845

I reach 4.615ghz with this.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> Hey guys. I OC'd my 8350 when I first got it back in March and got it to a stable 4.615ghz.
> 
> I recently decided to try and see if I could squeeze any more out of her as I've become a bit more proficient at OCing since. I have been unable to squeeze anything out of this puppy further. I have attempted more voltage, adjusting multiplier, adjusting FSB, more VDDC volts, etc.
> 
> Maybe my chip is at her end of OCability or maybe I'm just not putting out the right combination of things. Anyone with suggestions? My sig rig is up to date. Here are my current OC specs:
> 
> Multiplier - 23
> 
> CPU Bus Freq. - 200
> CPU Vol. - 1.46875
> CPU/NB Vol. - 1.26250
> DRAM Vol. - 1.5
> NB Vol. - 1.1
> VDDA Vol. - 2.5
> SB Vol. - 1.1
> NB 1.8v Vol. - 1.845
> 
> I reach 4.615ghz with this.


Try a combo of FSB and multi overclocking.
Start with setting the FSB at 250 and set ram, ht and nb at around their default settings.

Then set the multi so the cpu is running at around 4.8 and test things out. You probably need to raise the cpu voltage a bit.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> IMO that's the proper way.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But one can read around the web to get some ideas.
> Testing to see what works best in your case always is the way to go.
> 
> I mostly go for positive pressure to keep the dust out. Difference will probably be a few degrees anyway.
> 
> Do you have the cooler set as intake BTW? That can make a notable difference.
> 
> I do advice you to run prime95 smallFFTs to test temps. Makes things heat up more then Intel Burn Test. Run it for about 10 minutes.


I have 6 fans in my case, plus the GPU fans exhausting out and the PSU fan exhausting out. The front has 2x120mm intaking. The bottom has a 120mm intaking. Right now, the rear fan is a 120mm intake and the top is the rad, then 2x120mm exhausting. I can't get the fan's and then the rad in my case properly, so I have to rad, then fans, and they are pulling the heat away. I'm going to test and then flip the top fans and rear fan so the top is intaking, the rear exhausting and see how it does. Really though, all my other temps in the case are fine. It's just the socket temp is what it is I think for the most part. My core stays cool. My HD's are 30c, my video card, even at 100% for an hour is only 64c and thats OC'd 150mhz, which for a 7870 is pretty good. And even my socket temps aren't bad, only see 60c once.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> I have 6 fans in my case, plus the GPU fans exhausting out and the PSU fan exhausting out. The front has 2x120mm intaking. The bottom has a 120mm intaking. Right now, the rear fan is a 120mm intake and the top is the rad, then 2x120mm exhausting. I can't get the fan's and then the rad in my case properly, so I have to rad, then fans, and they are pulling the heat away. I'm going to test and then flip the top fans and rear fan so the top is intaking, the rear exhausting and see how it does. Really though, all my other temps in the case are fine. It's just the socket temp is what it is I think for the most part. My core stays cool. My HD's are 30c, my video card, even at 100% for an hour is only 64c and thats OC'd 150mhz, which for a 7870 is pretty good. And even my socket temps aren't bad, only see 60c once.


60c on the socket aint bad, depending on the settings you have the chip running. But to be honest I don't even know which cpu you have.
Would you be so kind to create your rig on your profile page and make it show in your signature? This way people can see what hardware you have when they read a post of you on the forum.
Makes things allot easier to reply with correct answers.

I found out that putting my rad, Corsair h100, as intake gave a slightly lower temp compared to exhaust. Plus gives you positive pressure to prevent dust intake(a bit).

Which case do you have? If there is room you can mount the stock cpu fan behind the motherboard so it blows cold air against the back of the socket. This helps quiet allot with most of the people.
I actually make a 120mm fan hole in the right side-panel and mounted a nice 120mm fan there.

Here is a link to the post I did a couple of months ago about the little mod:
Side-panel mod


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 60c on the socket aint bad, depending on the settings you have the chip running. But to be honest I don't even know which cpu you have.
> Would you be so kind to create your rig on your profile page and make it show in your signature? This way people can see what hardware you have when they read a post of you on the forum.
> Makes things allot easier to reply with correct answers.
> 
> I found out that putting my rad, Corsair h100, as intake gave a slightly lower temp compared to exhaust. Plus gives you positive pressure to prevent dust intake(a bit).
> 
> Which case do you have? If there is room you can mount the stock cpu fan behind the motherboard so it blows cold air against the back of the socket. This helps quiet allot with most of the people.
> I actually make a 120mm fan hole in the right side-panel and mounted a nice 120mm fan there.
> 
> Here is a link to the post I did a couple of months ago about the little mod:
> Side-panel mod


There, added my rig to my sig. lol. it's an 8320, running at 4.56ghz stable right now with at 1.39v, fsb at 233, multiplier at 19.5, digi controls fairly modest, haven't adjust anything else like ht speeds or nb voltages or anything. When I'm gaming or doing other things, it never hits that high of temps. Burn in tests always push it further than what happens in the real world. So far I'm happy that I switched motherboards and happy with my chip.

Here's a pic of my rig. You can see the rad at the top, and then I have 2 fan's on top of that, pulling out right now. The rear fan pulls in, bottom fan pulls in, two front fans pull in. Having the rear fan pulling in has cooled the VRM's a bit I may try switching the rear as exhaust and the ones on the fan pushing in. The rad never seems that hot anyways, don't think it will push too much warmer air in. Could almost mount one in the 5.25 bay blowing in across two, and maybe a shroud down towards the socket area. I don't want to cut my case, on the inside of both panels is acoustic material to quiet it and it's dead quiet and I like that so a fan behind the socket isn't an option.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> There, added my rig to my sig. lol. it's an 8320, running at 4.56ghz stable right now with at 1.39v, fsb at 233, multiplier at 19.5, digi controls fairly modest, haven't adjust anything else like ht speeds or nb voltages or anything. When I'm gaming or doing other things, it never hits that high of temps. Burn in tests always push it further than what happens in the real world. So far I'm happy that I switched motherboards and happy with my chip.
> 
> Here's a pic of my rig. You can see the rad at the top, and then I have 2 fan's on top of that, pulling out right now. The rear fan pulls in, bottom fan pulls in, two front fans pull in. Having the rear fan pulling in has cooled the VRM's a bit I may try switching the rear as exhaust and the ones on the fan pushing in. The rad never seems that hot anyways, don't think it will push too much warmer air in. Could almost mount one in the 5.25 bay blowing in across two, and maybe a shroud down towards the socket area. I don't want to cut my case, on the inside of both panels is acoustic material to quiet it and it's dead quiet and I like that so a fan behind the socket isn't an option.


It's your build. Do what you feel is the best.
But it is proven that blowing air against the back of the socket lowers temps like 3-7c.

Everyone has another opinion. Some tell me I am crazy for putting my dremel in my 145 euro Corsair 650D case.
But then again I have a mate of mine who took his angle grinder to cut off pretty much the entire top of his 260 euro 800D to make a 480 radiator fit into the top.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

I can testify that a fan behind the motherboard will lower your temps. I used the stock heat sink fan blowing on the back . Huge difference in socket temp, small difference in core temp.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> I can testify that a fan behind the motherboard will lower your temps. I used the stock heat sink fan blowing on the back . Huge difference in socket temp, small difference in core temp.


True.
For me it was mostly the socket temp that was touching the limit anyway.

Don't remember exactly how much cooler it is now after making a 120mm fan hole in the side-panel of my 650D to blow on the backside of the socket but it is upwards to 10c. Does give some extra noise BTW, but that's okay for me.


----------



## Mord

My try FX 8350 on Crosshair IV Formula


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mord*
> 
> My try FX 8350 on Crosshair IV Formula


I would try to lower the vcore a bit if I were you.
It's a bit high for only 4.6ghz. You should do at least 4.8ghz with that voltage.


----------



## Mord

I will try.


----------



## Mord

Not work that is minimum.


----------



## Durdle

Hello there!

Registered me on this forum just because of the overclocking guide. I have a fx 8350 and sabertooth 990fx r2.0 with coolermaster seidon 240m lqc. My stock voltage at 4 ghz is 1.392 (high) and are able to get the 8350 to 4.6(tried 4.7 too but bluescreen then) without core crash or anything in 10 min small fft as the guide says, but directly when i start blend it fails and ive checked my ram with memtest86 and they are good. My bios is set after ur 5.0 Ghz rec settings. Under full load my cpu vcore goes to 1.416 volt, up from 1.392.

I think its something with rammemories that fails me, cause small fft is good but when i blend test they directly fails with hardware error or something.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Hello there!
> 
> Registered me on this forum just because of the overclocking guide. I have a fx 8350 and sabertooth 990fx r2.0 with coolermaster seidon 240m lqc. My stock voltage at 4 ghz is 1.392 (high) and are able to get the 8350 to 4.6(tried 4.7 too but bluescreen then) without core crash or anything in 10 min small fft as the guide says, but directly when i start blend it fails and ive checked my ram with memtest86 and they are good. My bios is set after ur 5.0 Ghz rec settings. Under full load my cpu vcore goes to 1.416 volt, up from 1.392.
> 
> I think its something with rammemories that fails me, cause small fft is good but when i blend test they directly fails with hardware error or something.


I would just add more vcore until you get it stable in Blend. The prime smallFTT test is good to get you closer to the range you need. However, I had to up the voltage sometimes 4-5 clicks(+ in bios) in order to get it blend stable.

here is how I would approach it if I were you.

Run Blend and watch which test it fails on...say it fails on 640k.

Up the voltage one click and go to custom test in prime and enter 640k - 640k for the size and run it for 10 minutes. If it doesn't fail go ahead and try full blend, if it fails again up the voltage one click and repeat.

Also if you are getting "rounding errors" I found another solution was to up the vdda voltage to around 2.6875 based on another user here who helped me out.

Good luck!


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Hello there!
> 
> Registered me on this forum just because of the overclocking guide. I have a fx 8350 and sabertooth 990fx r2.0 with coolermaster seidon 240m lqc. My stock voltage at 4 ghz is 1.392 (high) and are able to get the 8350 to 4.6(tried 4.7 too but bluescreen then) without core crash or anything in 10 min small fft as the guide says, but directly when i start blend it fails and ive checked my ram with memtest86 and they are good. My bios is set after ur 5.0 Ghz rec settings. Under full load my cpu vcore goes to 1.416 volt, up from 1.392.
> 
> I think its something with rammemories that fails me, cause small fft is good but when i blend test they directly fails with hardware error or something.


Welcome to OCN,







have you tried upping your vcore voltage to become more stable?

well chiznitz beat me to it.


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> I would just add more vcore until you get it stable in Blend. The prime smallFTT test is good to get you closer to the range you need. However, I had to up the voltage sometimes 4-5 clicks(+ in bios) in order to get it blend stable.
> 
> here is how I would approach it if I were you.
> 
> Run Blend and watch which test it fails on...say it fails on 640k.
> 
> Up the voltage one click and go to custom test in prime and enter 640k - 640k for the size and run it for 10 minutes. If it doesn't fail go ahead and try full blend, if it fails again up the voltage one click and repeat.
> 
> Also if you are getting "rounding errors" I found another solution was to up the vdda voltage to around 2.6875 based on another user here who helped me out.
> 
> Good luck!


Ty for a fast answer!

The thing is that i was peaking 59 degrees celsius on my CPU on hw monitor, dont know if its core or socket? it only says CPU and then I have package temp too, which was lower.
Why does it fail blend? Cause when im only stressing cpu im stable, but when ram stress too it failes - so how could higher vcore help ram? doesnt you need to get more power to ram?

And btw, I tried again a few times with stock [email protected] but this time i raised cpu/nb volt from 1.25 as the guides told me to 1.3 and now im just getting fatal error: rounding was 0.455..., expected less than 0.4 Hardware failure detected


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Ty for a fast answer!
> 
> The thing is that i was peaking 59 degrees celsius on my CPU on hw monitor, dont know if its core or socket? it only says CPU and then I have package temp too, which was lower.
> Why does it fail blend? Cause when im only stressing cpu im stable, but when ram stress too it failes - so how could higher vcore help ram? doesnt you need to get more power to ram?
> 
> And btw, I tried again a few times with stock [email protected] but this time i raised cpu/nb volt from 1.25 as the guides told me to 1.3 and now im just getting fatal error: rounding was 0.455..., expected less than 0.4 Hardware failure detected


CPU Recommended Max = 72C This is your socket temp
Core/Package = 62C This is your CPU core temperature.

I've taken mine above these temperatures during the smallftt tests and I'm ok with that. Typically I don't like it when the core gets above 65C.

The socket usually reaches max temperatures before the core and thats why most of us have placed a fan blowing on the rear of the socket.

It looks like you have quite a bit to go if you were only hitting 59 on the socket!

I would just add more vcore for now since your temperatures aren't going crazy. You could try to up VDDA as suggested and that will probably work but I wouldn't go that route until you're reaching your max temperatures and its the last option.


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> CPU Recommended Max = 72C This is your socket temp
> Core/Package = 62C This is your CPU core temperature.
> 
> I've taken mine above these temperatures during the smallftt tests and I'm ok with that. Typically I don't like it when the core gets above 65C.
> 
> The socket usually reaches max temperatures before the core and thats why most of us have placed a fan blowing on the rear of the socket.
> 
> It looks like you have quite a bit to go if you were only hitting 59 on the socket!
> 
> I would just add more vcore for now since your temperatures aren't going crazy. You could try to up VDDA as suggested and that will probably work but I wouldn't go that route until you're reaching your max temperatures and its the last option.


Does hwmonitor show right temps then on cores/package?

So you say i should runt with 1.25 on cpu/nb manual voltage like i had before, and then just up my cpu manual voltage? When do you need to up cpu/nb manual voltage then?


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Does hwmonitor show right temps then on cores/package?
> 
> So you say i should runt with 1.25 on cpu/nb manual voltage like i had before, and then just up my cpu manual voltage? When do you need to up cpu/nb manual voltage then?


It won't hurt to leave it where it is for now. I'm running a high fsb and around 4900, I'm not sure how low I can take it but I know @ 1.25 I lockup so it has to be between 1.3 and 1.25 for me but I put it to 1.3 and found a stable overclock, I haven't had time to see how low I can go with it.

Yes, hwmonitor should be showing you the correct temperatures.

The guys here are way more advanced than myself on this subject. Once you start changing the NB speeds higher you're going to need some more voltage, I've been told to get the vcore stable while staying around stock speeds on nb/ht. Once you stabilize the overclock you can try and up the nb/ht speeds as well. I'm running 2600 and some change right now on both.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Does hwmonitor show right temps then on cores/package?
> 
> So you say i should runt with 1.25 on cpu/nb manual voltage like i had before, and then just up my cpu manual voltage? When do you need to up cpu/nb manual voltage then?


It would help us all if you'd post your rig sig so we know what you're working with.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

Include a couple snips showing CPU-Z with the CPU and Memory tabs open.
I'd recommend DLing HWInfo64 (or 32) to monitor the 83xx. HWMonitor and Core Temp are too buggy for me.
It's easy to "Hide" unwanted/duplicated info and you end up with something like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Are all your memory specs manually entered in bios including dram voltage?
If dram voltage is still at stock level an increase of .05 to .1v is not uncommon for the AMD platform.
This could be the issue causing the failure you're seeing but could also be the CPU/NB voltage is still to low.

I will hold off till there is more info available to work with.

Edit: I just noticed lol,
welcome to OCN!


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> It would help us all if you'd post your rig sig so we know what you're working with.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> 
> Include a couple snips showing CPU-Z with the CPU and Memory tabs open.
> I'd recommend DLing HWInfo64 (or 32) to monitor the 83xx. HWMonitor and Core Temp are too buggy for me.
> It's easy to "Hide" unwanted/duplicated info and you end up with something like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are all your memory specs manually entered in bios including dram voltage?
> If dram voltage is still at stock level an increase of .05 to .1v is not uncommon for the AMD platform.
> This could be the issue causing the failure you're seeing but could also be the CPU/NB voltage is still to low.
> 
> I will hold off till there is more info available to work with.
> 
> Edit: I just noticed lol,
> welcome to OCN!




Here is the photo u requested! I have the same settings as guide tells me, then voltage on 1.392 and cpu/nb voltage on 1.25 this time. Runs small fft in prime 95 good with no crashes and so BUT 2 degrees higher today?!


----------



## Durdle

So I went to test prime small FFT's again, with 4.6Ghz and cpu/nb voltage on 1.25 and vcore on stock 1.392...

For the first 10 minutes in went to 57Degrees on CPU(think it was socket) and 48 on package/cores, and under this time vcore jumped between 1.392 and 1.416volt. 10 minutes and forward my vcore got stabil at 1.404volt and my cpu went to 55 degrees celsius and cores was something around 46. This test last for about 23 minutes and 20 tests. Now on blend tho it failes directly. Within 5 minutes on bend worker 5 7 and 8 fails.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> So I went to test prime small FFT's again, with 4.6Ghz and cpu/nb voltage on 1.25 and vcore on stock 1.392...
> 
> For the first 10 minutes in went to 57Degrees on CPU(think it was socket) and 48 on package/cores, and under this time vcore jumped between 1.392 and 1.416volt. 10 minutes and forward my vcore got stabil at 1.404volt and my cpu went to 55 degrees celsius and cores was something around 46. This test last for about 23 minutes and 20 tests. Now on blend tho it failes directly. Within 5 minutes on bend worker 5 7 and 8 fails.


That is definitely going to need some more vcore, you're way under the max limits! What speed is your fan running @ with those temperatues? I bet its not even running full speed yet. Just increase the vcore until you get blend stable and remember to look at what test failed so you can run it manually and save some time.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> So I went to test prime small FFT's again, with 4.6Ghz and cpu/nb voltage on 1.25 and vcore on stock 1.392...
> 
> For the first 10 minutes in went to 57Degrees on CPU(think it was socket) and 48 on package/cores, and under this time vcore jumped between 1.392 and 1.416volt. 10 minutes and forward my vcore got stabil at 1.404volt and my cpu went to 55 degrees celsius and cores was something around 46. This test last for about 23 minutes and 20 tests. Now on blend tho it failes directly. Within 5 minutes on bend worker 5 7 and 8 fails.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> That is definitely going to need some more vcore, you're way under the max limits! What speed is your fan running @ with those temperatues? I bet its not even running full speed yet. Just increase the vcore until you get blend stable and remember to look at what test failed so you can run it manually and save some time.


Like chiznitz says your vcore is too low.

Depending on how good your chip is you will probably need somewhere around 1.425v to be 4.6ghz stable.


----------



## Durdle

So I just need to increase cpu manual voltage untill I dont get any fatal errors? And when do I have to increase cpu/nb manual voltage? its still 1.25v


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> So I just need to increase cpu manual voltage untill I dont get any fatal errors? And when do I have to increase cpu/nb manual voltage? its still 1.25v


I would leave it where it is for now. Just work with your vcore until you end up getting to hot of temperatures or have increased so much that you think something else may be needed.

It really can take 5 or more additions to vcore to get blend stable. I was running all stock voltages except for VDDA @ 4600mhz. If you are really worried about it you could put cpu/nb at 1.3 and leave it but then you're just adding voltage without knowing it really did anything and the goal is to have every voltage as low as you can while being stable.


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> So I just need to increase cpu manual voltage untill I dont get any fatal errors? And when do I have to increase cpu/nb manual voltage? its still 1.25v
> 
> 
> 
> I would leave it where it is for now. Just work with your vcore until you end up getting to hot of temperatures or have increased so much that you think something else may be needed.
> 
> It really can take 5 or more additions to vcore to get blend stable. I was running all stock voltages except for VDDA @ 4600mhz. If you are really worried about it you could put cpu/nb at 1.3 and leave it but then you're just adding voltage without knowing it really did anything and the goal is to have every voltage as low as you can while being stable.
Click to expand...

Well okey then! How long should i run blend without getting any errors to call the clock stable for everyday uaing and gaming?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Well okey then! How long should i run blend without getting any errors to call the clock stable for everyday uaing and gaming?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


You will get varying opinions on that. I let them run overnight usually and if it doesn't fail i try to go further. I'd just stick to the tests mentioned in the beginning of the tutorial for that time period.

here is an example though. I'm overclocked to 4900mhz right now. Prime95 fails immediately no matter what test I throw at it. Folding fails as well. OCCT doesn't seem to fail but it heats up enough stuff that I get throttling. AIDA64 with everything but HDD checked ran for 12 hours without failing before I stopped it.

I've played BF4 and CS:GO without any issues. My machine has been up for 3 days right now with long gaming sessions and I haven't' had a single hiccup. I would consider myself, CS:GO stable as thats what I play the most of. I wouldn't consider myself stable for encoding video or stuff i don't do so i won't find out about those issues until later...I'm ok with that.

Stability is really your own choice. For games I'd say aida64 stability test. If you're going to be folding doing video etc I'd say stick with prime.


----------



## Durdle

So I ran prime about 47 minutes until 2 workes failed! It was 100 warnings, and the test was 460000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations m245759 AMD K10 type 0 fft length 12k, pass 1=48 pass 2=256

So how can I only try that test again? dont want to do all tests up to that one again just because ive failed it.. And how much should i increase vcore? just one point?


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> So I ran prime about 47 minutes until 2 workes failed! It was 100 warnings, and the test was 460000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations m245759 AMD K10 type 0 fft length 12k, pass 1=48 pass 2=256
> 
> So how can I only try that test again? dont want to do all tests up to that one again just because ive failed it.. And how much should i increase vcore? just one point?


12k's have always been the test to fail for me as well and prime hits it around 45minutes or so, so that makes sense. Up the vcore by one tick, in prime click custom test. The image below shows a custom 448k test, you'll want to put 12 in the boxes where this person has 448

You should also leave the "Run in place" unchecked


----------



## Durdle

Going to up the vcore 1 tick and then test 12k fft. if it passes all test in 12k, should i start blend from start then again?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Well okey then! How long should i run blend without getting any errors to call the clock stable for everyday uaing and gaming?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


Cpu-nb 1.25v is fine for overclocks to about 4.6-4.8ghz.

Run prime blend as long as the longest session of heavy cpu load you usually have.
For example, when you game for like 4 hours straight max. Make it 4 hours blend stable at least. But preferably overnight(12 hours).

Try with setting the vcore to about 1.425v and run blend.


----------



## Durdle

So I just passed the 12k test which was 15 minutes. My cpu socket went to 62 degrees and cores went to 53 which is hot?!
My cpu vcore is about 1.428 in hw monitor and full load 1.452 in full load.

Should I start blend again? soon im giving up cause i dont think i will reach 4.6ghz stable...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> So I just passed the 12k test which was 15 minutes. My cpu socket went to 62 degrees and cores went to 53 which is hot?!
> My cpu vcore is about 1.428 in hw monitor and full load 1.452 in full load.
> 
> Should I start blend again? soon im giving up cause i dont think i will reach 4.6ghz stable...


Sounds good.
Those temps are fine. If you stay below the max 72c on the socket and 62c on the cores you are good. As you are almost a full 10c below on both temps you can even up the voltage more if needed.

That voltages looks good to me for 4.6. My 8320 wants about 1.42v for 4.6ghz.
Maybe you encounter core fails but as you are nowhere near the max temp you an give it another bump on the voltage.

Good luck.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> So I just passed the 12k test which was 15 minutes. My cpu socket went to 62 degrees and cores went to 53 which is hot?!
> My cpu vcore is about 1.428 in hw monitor and full load 1.452 in full load.
> 
> Should I start blend again? soon im giving up cause i dont think i will reach 4.6ghz stable...


I honestly am not sure if you've read the guide thoroughly or what you're trying to achieve, but you have plenty of headroom to get to a higher overclock. You're looking at another 9 Degrees on the core before you reach the recommended maximum. Many have said that even 65C core is fine during stress testing.

I say if you've passed the 12k test at your current mark, increase your overclock until you fail the 12k, then increase vcore again until you fail the 12k or reach thermal limits, then back down your overclock to the highest 12k pass you had and try some blending.


----------



## Durdle

trying blend atm again, im soon at 12k which the 8350 is supposed to pass cause i passed in while custom testing. After that ill see what test my 8350 fails.

And how safe is it to get to temps like 72 cpu and 62 cores?

Update: srsly ***, this time worker 8 failed 720k test, which it didnt fail before and this time I even had higher voltage then before?!...


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> trying blend atm again, im soon at 12k which the 8350 is supposed to pass cause i passed in while custom testing. After that ill see what test my 8350 fails.
> 
> And how safe is it to get to temps like 72 cpu and 62 cores?


If you max out at those temps I would not expect any trouble at all, if it's stable.
For me it's not stable till it passes 20 runs max setting of IBT AVX version, 24 hrs of P95 Blend and the list goes on.

Prime95 is great but I save that till I know I can pass say 20 runs on max IBT AVX.
IBT works real good in the early stages as it's tests can be much faster to show a failure, just not quite as through as p95.
I find if I can pass that, Prime95 is usually not far behind voltage wise but it will take additional to pass p95.

Learning how to OC takes time (some times a lot of time). Don't rush, take your time and make only small changes/increases than re-run test.
There's nothing better than having an optimized OC but be prepared, it takes time.
Stabilizing a 4.6GHz OC shouldn't be an issue with a suitable mobo (something that doesn't throttle or have temp issues with the VRM's)

Have you mentioned what mobo your using? Maybe I missed it.
This is a very important factor when it comes to power management for a Vishera.
This by itself could tell us a lot.

The previous image you posted could have shown more real info other than 8 times the core vid, 8 x core clock and than 8 more core usage listings.
I was hoping to see more of the voltages/temps etc that are lower in HWInfo64 lol.
It's hard to help with only half the info lol.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> If you max out at those temps I would not expect any trouble at all, if it's stable.
> For me it's not stable till it passes 20 runs max setting of IBT AVX version, 24 hrs of P95 Blend and the list goes on.
> 
> Prime95 is great but I save that till I know I can pass say 20 runs on max IBT AVX.
> IBT works real good in the early stages as it's tests can be much faster to show a failure, just not quite as through as p95.
> I find if I can pass that, Prime95 is usually not far behind voltage wise but it will take additional to pass p95.
> 
> Learning how to OC takes time (some times a lot of time). Don't rush, take your time and make only small changes/increases than re-run test.
> There's nothing better than having an optimized OC but be prepared, it takes time.
> Stabilizing a 4.6GHz OC shouldn't be an issue with a suitable mobo (something that doesn't throttle or have temp issues with the VRM's)
> 
> Have you mentioned what mobo your using? Maybe I missed it.
> This is a very important factor when it comes to power management for a Vishera.
> This by itself could tell us a lot.
> 
> The previous image you posted could have shown more real info other than 8 times the core vid, 8 x core clock and than 8 more core usage listings.
> I was hoping to see more of the voltages/temps etc that are lower in HWInfo64 lol.
> It's hard to help with only half the info lol.


He's using a sabertooth 2.0 and a cooler master seidon 240m water cooling kit. Pretty sure he should definitely be able to take his rig a lot further if he wants to.

Durdle, what kind of error this time? As mentioned before if it is a rounding error trying upping the VDDA voltage if this is as fast as you are going to take your overclock. If you are interested in taking your OC further then continue with the Core voltage increases until it stable in a 720k.

If I were doing this I would do the 12k test for 10 minutes and if it passes I would then up my overclocked speed and repeat until it fails or reaches the thermal limits you are comfortable with. Running a blend test after every setting change will take an extremely long time to find your max stable overclock.

Just keep doing 8 or 12k tests for 10 minutes and upping voltage/overclock speed as you go until you reach those limits. Then run blend, if it fails and you believe you should not increase voltage due to limits, back the overclock down a little bit at a time until blend is stable.


----------



## Alsen1987

Hello fellow overclockers.
Just gotten a fx8350 with the Asus 970 board.
I encountered a strange problem, the temp for my cpu socket is often very high. It went up to 80 degree cel while running prime95 FFT but cpu temp was ard 60 at 4.6ghz, below 1.4volt. It failed the prime95 test anyway and im hesitant to up the volt with this kind of temp. Is this normal? Can I do anything abt the temp?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> trying blend atm again, im soon at 12k which the 8350 is supposed to pass cause i passed in while custom testing. After that ill see what test my 8350 fails.
> 
> And how safe is it to get to temps like 72 cpu and 62 cores?
> 
> Update: srsly ***, this time worker 8 failed 720k test, which it didnt fail before and this time I even had higher voltage then before?!...


Like the Sandman said, overclocking takes time.

I remember messing with my Phenom II 955. Oh my that was a pain.
Must have been close to 100 hours it took me to get it stable. But it did give me a 4.2 clock in the end, for a good 1ghz overclock.

It's not like you put a few settings and it's done. Its trail and error all the way.
Just take small steps and test.

What you can try is lower your memory a bit first to see where the problem is.
I don't recall you telling what memory and settings you are running....

Good luck dude.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alsen1987*
> 
> Hello fellow overclockers.
> Just gotten a fx8350 with the Asus 970 board.
> I encountered a strange problem, the temp for my cpu socket is often very high. It went up to 80 degree cel while running prime95 FFT but cpu temp was ard 60 at 4.6ghz, below 1.4volt. It failed the prime95 test anyway and im hesitant to up the volt with this kind of temp. Is this normal? Can I do anything abt the temp?


No this is not good.
Don't up the voltage.

You have some more info?
What cooling you have on there? Looks like it is not seating correctly to me.


----------



## Alsen1987

Quote:


> No this is not good.
> Don't up the voltage.
> 
> You have some more info?
> What cooling you have on there? Looks like it is not seating correctly to me.
> Edited by Chopper1591 - Today at 12:46 am


I have a Noctua U12P and a Silverstone Casing, RV02.
Its abit 3 years old. I think there is a chance for some mounting error when I did the mounting. But it shouldnt be hard? Squeeze the paste on the cpu, tighten the 2 screw on each side.
Where does the CPU SOCKET Temp come from? How different does it compare to the CPU temp?
I got okay CPU temp but the cpu socket always shoot up to 80 under prime95.


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alsen1987*
> 
> I have a Noctua U12P and a Silverstone Casing, RV02.
> Its abit 3 years old. I think there is a chance for some mounting error when I did the mounting. But it shouldnt be hard? Squeeze the paste on the cpu, tighten the 2 screw on each side.
> Where does the CPU SOCKET Temp come from? How different does it compare to the CPU temp?
> I got okay CPU temp but the cpu socket always shoot up to 80 under prime95.


If I'm correct that your cooler cools very similar to a hyper 212 plus I'd say you're almost at your limits. 4600 was around the max I could push mine. Your core temperature is fine and you could squeak a little more out of it. Have you placed a fan blowing on the rear of your socket? I had a 15-18C different in my core vs socket before I placed a fan blowing on the rear of the socket. You can also place blowing down on the VRMs as suggested, i noticed this helped lower socket by an additional 1C as well.


----------



## Alsen1987

Im looking to replace the noctua now.
A pin fell out while I was remounting it from my previous CPU and probably not in tip top shape anymore.
Im pretty happy with its performance just that the cpu socket temp got me worried.
Time to look for a better cooler. ~


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alsen1987*
> 
> Im looking to replace the noctua now.
> A pin fell out while I was remounting it from my previous CPU and probably not in tip top shape anymore.
> Im pretty happy with its performance just that the cpu socket temp got me worried.
> Time to look for a better cooler. ~


This one has been good for me so far and I believe you're not going to beat this price for the cooling you get.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190

If you want to spend more money etc I'm sure the guys here will tell you get your own custom loop


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alsen1987*
> 
> Im looking to replace the noctua now.
> A pin fell out while I was remounting it from my previous CPU and probably not in tip top shape anymore.
> Im pretty happy with its performance just that the cpu socket temp got me worried.
> Time to look for a better cooler. ~


By all means 60c on the cores with only a 4.6ghz clock are not "okay" temps.

To get things straight first.
The socket temp is the temperature of the cpu itself, so the complete chip.
And the other temp you are talking about, displayed as cpu temp, we call the core temps(the temperature of the actual cores inside the cpu).

Here are a few shots of prime smallFFT runs for you to compare.

8320 @ 4.2ghz 1.344v // here I had changed the labels of hwinfo64 so it is easier to read.


8320 @ 4.5ghz 1.424v // old windows install, named the socket "die"
I think this shot was after I made the side-panel mod to my 650D. Adding a 120mm fan blowing to the back of the cpu, lowering the socket(die) temp quiet allot.


Cpu cooled by a Corsair h100 with two ap-15's pulling in fresh air from the top of the case.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> This one has been good for me so far and I believe you're not going to beat this price for the cooling you get.
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190
> 
> If you want to spend more money etc I'm sure the guys here will tell you get your own custom loop


Like chiznitz says, if you have the budget go with a custom loop.

If you don't you really are better of buying a high end air cooler. Because you will get problems cooling your vrm's when you go with an all-in-one unit.

Suggested coolers IMO are:
Noctua NH-D14
Phanteks PH-TC14PE
Thermalright Silver Arrow SB-E (Extreme Edition)

The pro for getting a high-end air cooler is that you have airflow over the vrm's. Where if you have a all-in-one cooler you don't. You can add extra fans and all to cool the vrm's but that just messes up your airflow.

So it's either all the way and preferably also put water on the motherboard or go with a decent air cooler.

That's my opinion on this.
I found it out myself with my h100 that the vrm's on the motherboard do tend to bottleneck your overclock.


----------



## GeToChKn

So played around with putting my stock AMD fan on the back of the socket, first with the case off, about 10c cooler under prime load. Put the case on to sandwich it between the case and the board, not a lot of room for airflow, but some will get through. 6c cooler with the side panel on and the fan going. I jsut have it taped there. I want to play with it blowing across the socket vs pull heat away. Since it's wedged between my side panel, not a lot of room for airflow so maybe pulling heat away into the case side panel would help disapate the heat.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> So played around with putting my stock AMD fan on the back of the socket, first with the case off, about 10c cooler under prime load. Put the case on to sandwich it between the case and the board, not a lot of room for airflow, but some will get through. 6c cooler with the side panel on and the fan going. I jsut have it taped there. I want to play with it blowing across the socket vs pull heat away. Since it's wedged between my side panel, not a lot of room for airflow so maybe pulling heat away into the case side panel would help disapate the heat.


Excellent results.









I think the best temps are going to be blowing across the backplates of the vrms, and cpu. Since the direct contact of air to the plates will help with heat transfer from the plate to air.

Removing the air around may help since there will be some airflow on the plates and you'll be relocating the stagnant hot air but my thoughts are its not gonna be as great a result as direct air flow.

Definately try both ways and post your findings. I'm definitely curious as to which is better.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Quick question that I might have asked already and since forgotten:

What is the maximum "safe" voltage that a typical Piledriver chip can take? Is it 1.55v, higher, or lower?


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Excellent results.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the best temps are going to be blowing across the backplates of the vrms, and cpu. Since the direct contact of air to the plates will help with heat transfer from the plate to air.
> 
> Removing the air around may help since there will be some airflow on the plates and you'll be relocating the stagnant hot air but my thoughts are its not gonna be as great a result as direct air flow.
> 
> Definately try both ways and post your findings. I'm definitely curious as to which is better.


Will do tomorrow. I have to have slimmer fans in my shop somewhere off of something. The stock AMD fan just fits from the backplate to my case side, and my case has noise material on the inside, so I'd rather find a slimmer fan to put again so there is room there for it to draw air from. It sits so tight on the acoustic foam, it left an imprint. lol. I have to have a slimmer CPU fan I can rip off something.

EDIT: Found another CPU heatsink in my shop with a fan that is about 1/8" thinner, so I can hotglue it to the bracket blowing on the socket. I'll try both socket ways tomorrow and also my rad fans blowing in/back fan out vs rad fans blowing out/back fan in. So new fans works pretty good. Just taped in place to test, but upped my voltage and my clock to 4.6, 1.4v, and while core hit 51 in prime, socket only hit 56. Much more in sync with the core temps. No way before that would have let me run prime that long with hitting 65-70.


----------



## FatedFrenzy

I actually just modded my Phantom with a 140mm fan now mounted on the backside of the CPU and VRMs. It really does make a difference.

I have a question though, and I fee like an idiot asking this but, in HWinfo64 which temp is the core and which is the socket?

^Yeah, this is really confusing me kinda to the point of pissing me off because I can Google this question in any way I want and I just can't get the answer.

I have:

CPU 0: Currently at 18.1C

and under ITE IT8721F

CPU: 34C
Motherboard: 27C


----------



## Durdle

Soo 1 core failed after 9 and a half hour, wasnt a rounding fail so should i increase the volt or could I just stay here and call it "stable" because of i never run full cpu usage for 9 hours?


----------



## Moragg

If temps were fine, and you don't want to OC further, just increase vcore a notch or two and call it a day.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> I actually just modded my Phantom with a 140mm fan now mounted on the backside of the CPU and VRMs. It really does make a difference.
> 
> I have a question though, and I fee like an idiot asking this but, in HWinfo64 which temp is the core and which is the socket?
> 
> ^Yeah, this is really confusing me kinda to the point of pissing me off because I can Google this question in any way I want and I just can't get the answer.
> 
> I have:
> 
> CPU 0: Currently at 18.1C
> 
> and under ITE IT8721F
> 
> CPU: 34C
> Motherboard: 27C


CPU 0: Is the core temp
CPU: Is the socket temp. That's the one that usually goes up faster


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Found another CPU heatsink in my shop with a fan that is about 1/8" thinner, so I can hotglue it to the bracket blowing on the socket. I'll try both socket ways tomorrow and also my rad fans blowing in/back fan out vs rad fans blowing out/back fan in. So new fans works pretty good. Just taped in place to test, but upped my voltage and my clock to 4.6, 1.4v, and while core hit 51 in prime, socket only hit 56. Much more in sync with the core temps. No way before that would have let me run prime that long with hitting 65-70.


Awsome!









Now Crank those clocks up some more. Looks like your on your way to 4.8ghz with your new found headroom.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Awsome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now Crank those clocks up some more. Looks like your on your way to 4.8ghz with your new found headroom.


Ran prime for a few hours, cranked up the voltage, got 233 FSB, 20.5 multi for 4.775ghz so far, socket temp hit about 56 tops, core about 52 tops. I have to mount the fan better though, it rattles a bit and it's driving me nuts but now it's hot glued down so i have to cut the glue and redo it, but can't find anymore glue sticks around so when I can get the fan back on, I'll try for 4.8 although already very happy with my 1.2ghz overclock. lol.


----------



## Mord

How about this with out any tweak but just it is?








http://www.dodaj.rs/?2f/Kq/2fou4DWR/103gflopsa.png


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mord*
> 
> How about this with out any tweak but just it is?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.dodaj.rs/?2f/Kq/2fou4DWR/103gflopsa.png


your pic doesn't show right.


----------



## Mord

I do not know way but forum refuse correct display image.


----------



## Mord

Sorry I disable Import images


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mord*
> 
> Sorry I disable Import images


Nice









Now try tweaking some, maybe lower the voltage till you become unstable then raise it slightly should help with your temps.









or you could raise your overclock untill you become unstable the drop it slightly.


----------



## Durdle

Is it allways too low vcore when u get hardware error?

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Is it allways too low vcore when u get hardware error?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


What you mean by hardware error?
Core fails on prime?

Not always related to too low voltage.
Could also be unstable ram/IMC, unstable cpu-nb.

What have you acquired so far BTW?


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What you mean by hardware error?
> Core fails on prime?
> 
> Not always related to too low voltage.
> Could also be unstable ram/IMC, unstable cpu-nb.
> 
> What have you acquired so far BTW?


Well im still at 4.6 Ghz, went prime for 9.5 hours before 1 core failed due hardware error on 1.45V. Changed the volt 1 tick to 1.456250 and went more than 10 hours without errors before fail on 1 core again.


----------



## FatedFrenzy

I had to have my voltage up to 1.46875 in order to get 4.6 stable. 1.47500 for 4.7


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> I had to have my voltage up to 1.46875 in order to get 4.6 stable. 1.47500 for 4.7


How was your temps? Font know ehat happened but when i increased froom 1.45 to 1.456250 i got mu cores from max 51 to 56... a d cpu vent from 59 to 64

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## FatedFrenzy

In Prime I'm in the low 50s for core and can get up to 64 socket at 4.7. @ 4.6 with my fan controller set to high, I'm about 51/61 core/socket.


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> In Prime I'm in the low 50s for core and can get up to 64 socket at 4.7. @ 4.6 with my fan controller set to high, I'm about 51/61 core/socket.


Its something wrong with my core temp, cause my core temp jumps to lika instant 50 degrees celsius when i start prime and core is hotter than my cpu socket lol... Even installed my amd stock fan behind the cpu pulling air from the back but nothing changed.. And in idle my core temp can jump from 12 degrees to like 30 in 1 sec


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Its something wrong with my core temp, cause my core temp jumps to lika instant 50 degrees celsius when i start prime and core is hotter than my cpu socket lol... Even installed my amd stock fan behind the cpu pulling air from the back but nothing changed.. And in idle my core temp can jump from 12 degrees to like 30 in 1 sec


Yes, as soon as the cores ramp up, the temp starts to ramp up. AMD's idle core temps are off, they don't get accurate till they are under good load and hit 40.


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Yes, as soon as the cores ramp up, the temp starts to ramp up. AMD's idle core temps are off, they don't get accurate till they are under good load and hit 40.


It just feels strange that 0.006250 volt more makes the cores get so many degrees hotter and hotter than socket.


----------



## GeToChKn

So, 4.7ghz seems pretty stable.

233 FSB, 20x Multiplier, 1.38v, IBT Stable, Prime ran for a few hours without a warning or worker dropping out. With the fan on the back, core/socket temps are near in sync, and around 57/63c is the highest I've hit. Playing BF3, never went past 40c on either of them though. lol.

I"m happy here, I'm sure I could OC more, but it's within max temps at full prime load, then normal gaming like BF3 keeps me cool and my fans barely running. lol.

What is the better way to OC though for temps? Am I better off going more FSB instead of multiplier or am I good with the mix of both that I have?


----------



## FatedFrenzy

My current setup is pretty much all multiplier and my temps are about the same. I don't even brake 50c on core or socket (usually in the mid 40s) even in demanding games like Metro.

My GPUs on the other hand can get up to almost 100c







.... but that's for another thread and another time


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

I barely hit 50 degrees core under battlefield with my 8320 at 4.7ghz i did try for 4.8 but hit 63 core almost instantly so until i go custom loop water i wont be going any higher, my thermalright sb-e extreme on a pull pull does rather well tho as it is, i do have a 3rd ty-143 fan drawing air in, although its louder than most i dont hear it while i have my headset on and swmbo is ok as she can hear the tv still lol


----------



## Durdle

It is so weird that my Cores get much hotter than socket now... Didnt change anything either it just happened lol. Tryed to decrease vdda to 2.25 instead of auto which was 2.5 but cant se lower temps.. my Cpu socket tho stays cooler than before :/ Have i ruined my mobo allready?


----------



## chiznitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> It is so weird that my Cores get much hotter than socket now... Didnt change anything either it just happened lol. Tryed to decrease vdda to 2.25 instead of auto which was 2.5 but cant se lower temps.. my Cpu socket tho stays cooler than before :/ Have i ruined my mobo allready?


You haven't even begun to hit temperatures that are worrysome. You need to let it run for a few minutes, at the current speed/voltage the core is going to spike very quickly as your fans/water cooling ramps on speed. Let it run for 3 minutes and I bet socket will be higher than core again. You really have nothing to worry about yet.

This is like the 5th post where you have asked about temperatures being so hot, yet you aren't even at the recommended limits yet, unless you're saying the CPU Core has gone to 64C all of a sudden If its just the socket that has gone to 64C there are no issues


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> It is so weird that my Cores get much hotter than socket now... Didnt change anything either it just happened lol. Tryed to decrease vdda to 2.25 instead of auto which was 2.5 but cant se lower temps.. my Cpu socket tho stays cooler than before :/ Have i ruined my mobo allready?
> 
> 
> 
> You haven't even begun to hit temperatures that are worrysome. You need to let it run for a few minutes, at the current speed/voltage the core is going to spike very quickly as your fans/water cooling ramps on speed. Let it run for 3 minutes and I bet socket will be higher than core again. You really have nothing to worry about yet.
> 
> This is like the 5th post where you have asked about temperatures being so hot, yet you aren't even at the recommended limits yet, unless you're saying the CPU Core has gone to 64C all of a sudden If its just the socket that has gone to 64C there are no issues
Click to expand...

Ive run peime95 for 20 mintues now and cores are 55 degress while socket is 53

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## chiznitz

Screenshot?


----------



## Durdle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chiznitz*
> 
> Screenshot?


Sorry did t take any but i will take one later

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## Durdle

Here is my socket and cores 2 hours in blend test! My socket used to be at 60 while cores lower but something happened :/

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my socket and cores 2 hours in blend test! My socket used to be at 60 while cores lower but something happened :/
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


Don't stress out so much.
Just make sure you stay below both max core and max socket temps.
Looks like you are just nearing the limit your cooling can take.

Every chip is different you know.

Do you happen to have a large fan you use in the house when it is hot?
Put the side panel of and use the fan on full speed to blow cool air in and see if it makes a difference.

Also which psu do you have?
Voltage lines look a bit low.


----------



## Durdle

I have a corsair rm750 gold psu now. And I have a fan which i will test out and see if it makes any better then, but the fan i installed on the back blowing at socket didnt change anyting.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


----------



## FatedFrenzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> I have a corsair rm750 gold psu now. And I have a fan which i will test out and see if it makes any better then, but the fan i installed on the back blowing at socket didnt change anyting.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


Really? Hmmm ... I cut out a hole in the panel of my Phantom and installed a 140mm fan there. It definitely helped my socket temps.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> I have a corsair rm750 gold psu now. And I have a fan which i will test out and see if it makes any better then, but the fan i installed on the back blowing at socket didnt change anyting.
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk


Just for sh#$ and giggles. did you try using a diff monitoring software to make sure the readings aren't screwed.

CPUz's HW monitor or Core temp. Just install them and see. If you do see a diff try uninstalling and reinstalling HWmonitor64.

I doubt you'll see diff temps on the others but hey, ya never know.


----------



## done75

Hi all, this is my OC.
I stopped at 4.5Ghz because with 4.6 T° are too high for me.






upload


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FatedFrenzy*
> 
> Really? Hmmm ... I cut out a hole in the panel of my Phantom and installed a 140mm fan there. It definitely helped my socket temps.


Same here.
I used a 120mm fan on the right side-panel of my 650D.

Haven't noted the temp difference but it was at least 5c. Maybe close to 10c. On the socket that is. Cores weren't much different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *done75*
> 
> Hi all, this is my OC.
> I stopped at 4.5Ghz because with 4.6 T° are too high for me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> upload


Looks like you are close to your max indeed.

But you sure you are stable with that voltage?
Seems a bit low to me....

How long is it prime blend stable?


----------



## done75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Looks like you are close to your max indeed.
> 
> But you sure you are stable with that voltage?
> Seems a bit low to me....
> 
> How long is it prime blend stable?


I use OCCT for testing (1 h).
I'll test with Prime Blend too in the next days.


----------



## Durdle

Hello again, thought about updating a little bit here.

I've ran prime95 blend 13.5 hours without errors on 4.6ghz and it seems stable atm. Vcore on 1.488 on load and 1.464 on idle. Can I enable power saving mode now to get my vcore down when its not fully loaded?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durdle*
> 
> Hello again, thought about updating a little bit here.
> 
> I've ran prime95 blend 13.5 hours without errors on 4.6ghz and it seems stable atm. Vcore on 1.488 on load and 1.464 on idle. Can I enable power saving mode now to get my vcore down when its not fully loaded?


Yes, it shouldn't be an issue.
I run C&Q on all my OC's after stabilizing.


----------



## done75

What's the differences between Prime Custom 75% (in 1st page) and Prime Blend?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *done75*
> 
> What's the differences between Prime Custom 75% (in 1st page) and Prime Blend?


75% means 75% ram usage. But apart from that it's identical to blend, if you don't change any of the other settings.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Some semi done OC sessions, just have been reading many posts in this thread, and figured why not contribute! FX 8320 sure gave me bang for my buck I would say =p


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> 
> 
> Some semi done OC sessions, just have been reading many posts in this thread, and figured why not contribute! FX 8320 sure gave me bang for my buck I would say =p


The voltage is way up.
I benched on 5ghz with that voltage.

Have you ran prime smallFFTs?


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> The voltage is way up.
> I benched on 5ghz with that voltage.
> 
> Have you ran prime smallFFTs?


Yes, the voltage is up. around 30% (3.5 is stock not 3.7 like OCCT states) increase in frequency and I would expect voltage to have increased largely? I don't understand what you meant really. I have ran smallFFT.

Edit: So, meant to ask. I have respected the 62 degree core temp, and I understand of course there is risk going above it. Can someone let me in or elaborate on that? In terms of like how much risk (like....your F'd in the A, or well it could fail, but most are ok up to) or that sort of thing? Oh and anyone want to share what I could expect if I decide in the near future to upgrade to one of the "9000" series chips. I understand they are from what I can tell cherry picked FX 8350's, but hope someone has some info or personal experience on OCing expereience with them because I can get around 4.7 with my 8320 and am not a rich man so wasting money would be annoying.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Yes, the voltage is up. around 30% (3.5 is stock not 3.7 like OCCT states) increase in frequency and I would expect voltage to have increased largely? I don't understand what you meant really. I have ran smallFFT.
> 
> Edit: So, meant to ask. I have respected the 62 degree core temp, and I understand of course there is risk going above it. Can someone let me in or elaborate on that? In terms of like how much risk (like....your F'd in the A, or well it could fail, but most are ok up to) or that sort of thing? Oh and anyone want to share what I could expect if I decide in the near future to upgrade to one of the "9000" series chips. I understand they are from what I can tell cherry picked FX 8350's, but hope someone has some info or personal experience on OCing expereience with them because I can get around 4.7 with my 8320 and am not a rich man so wasting money would be annoying.


Well if you followed the guide you would know if the voltage is correct.

You always take small steps:
increase the multi, test
increase more, till fail
increase voltage, test
if no fail, increase multi, test

etc. etc

About temperature:
Amd stated the max advised temp on the cores of 62c.
Going over it won't kill the chip instantly. But the chance of getting error's is large. And the chip WILL degrade fast.
The cooler the chip, the longer the lifespan.

About the 9000 series.
IMO I wouldn't bother with it. Should only buy it if you are lazy to overclock yourself....
I don't expect there to be allot of headroom left as it is already basically the same chip as the 8350.

Either be happy with the chip you have now and wait for the real followup of the 83x0 chips.
Or spend some cash on proper cooling and take that 8320 to higher levels.

Hope this helps a bit.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Well if you followed the guide you would know if the voltage is correct.
> 
> You always take small steps:
> increase the multi, test
> increase more, till fail
> increase voltage, test
> if no fail, increase multi, test
> 
> etc. etc
> 
> About temperature:
> Amd stated the max advised temp on the cores of 62c.
> Going over it won't kill the chip instantly. But the chance of getting error's is large. And the chip WILL degrade fast.
> The cooler the chip, the longer the lifespan.
> 
> About the 9000 series.
> IMO I wouldn't bother with it. Should only buy it if you are lazy to overclock yourself....
> I don't expect there to be allot of headroom left as it is already basically the same chip as the 8350.
> 
> Either be happy with the chip you have now and wait for the real followup of the 83x0 chips.
> Or spend some cash on proper cooling and take that 8320 to higher levels.
> 
> Hope this helps a bit.


If I followed the guide? Man you come off a bit high and mighty. I have been doing this a while, and yes I did follow the guide. Each chip is different (Since you know so much I am sure you know that) My chip obviously requires more voltage then yours.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> If I followed the guide? Man you come off a bit high and mighty. I have been doing this a while, and yes I did follow the guide. Each chip is different (Since you know so much I am sure you know that) My chip obviously requires more voltage then yours.


Sorry man don't mean to snap at you or something.
What do you mean by high and mighty?

It's just that the way you replied that I thought you had just jumped the voltage and tried clocking. My bad.








Just want to help where I can.

I can't smell what you done already and how much you know of course.

My first reply to you was aimed to ask if you needed so much voltage because I would expect you to be able squeeze out some more out of the chip with that voltage.
But maybe it is just me being lucky to run mine at 4.68 with around 1.44v


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sorry man don't mean to snap at you or something.
> What do you mean by high and mighty?
> 
> It's just that the way you replied that I thought you had just jumped the voltage and tried clocking. My bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just want to help where I can.
> 
> I can't smell what you done already and how much you know of course.
> 
> My first reply to you was aimed to ask if you needed so much voltage because I would expect you to be able squeeze out some more out of the chip with that voltage.
> But maybe it is just me being lucky to run mine at 4.68 with around 1.44v


Well, I am not trying to flame anyone, but it read to me like you not smelled what I have done, because I don't have some ego or expect you to have ESP, but it seemed that you assumed that I was well naive or ignorant enough to be like, hey here is a guide I will just wing this beast and post some OC's, because that will show them how cool i am! This 8320 is not cream of the crop as I have read people getting much better clocks vs voltages, but it does great for me. I paid $179.99 around release, and it chomps through anything I throw at it.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Well, I am not trying to flame anyone, but it read to me like you not smelled what I have done, because I don't have some ego or expect you to have ESP, but it seemed that you assumed that I was well naive or ignorant enough to be like, hey here is a guide I will just wing this beast and post some OC's, because that will show them how cool i am! This 8320 is not cream of the crop as I have read people getting much better clocks vs voltages, but it does great for me. I paid $179.99 around release, and it chomps through anything I throw at it.


Ohh no that was absolutely not my vision of you.
You are somewhat the negative type are you?







no offense

By all means the clock you achieved for the price you paid is nice indeed.

Just tried to share some info.
Maybe it came over a bit wrong. My bad.

Kodu's on the monitor BTW. How is it?
I've had my eye on those displays for some time now.
If I just had the money laying around. Damn you crisis.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Well I won't lie the monitor is Fing amazing. And it isn't even new to me I have had it for about 2 years now, and honestly <3. I play a lot of CS:S (now CS:GO) and have always been a FPS maniac so the 120hz refresh and "instant mode" low latency optimizing makes it really stand out. Heh so I got my tax returns on a Turbo Tax prepaid 2 years ago right? So I used $471 of the $1200 to buy and get next day shipping on the XL2420T right around release date, and all was well they took the money off the card, and bummer stock was low or at 0 so it took around 2 weeks to ship right? They released the funds back on to the card. I even left the $471.81 on the card for most of a week AFTER receiving the monitor! I was convinced that the monitor wasn't going to ship or you know they would take the funds before or during shipping? Nah haha And they did take the funds finally like 3 months later, but sadly I didn't hold on to the $471.81 *oops* and so the turbo tax card went -$471.81 , and I was ok with that beings I loved the monitor and wouldn't mind paying it back gradually. In a twist of fate/luck/wizards? The bank that backed Turbo tax's cards was acquired by some other entity and in the notice of this sent to my email something about debt being bought (I really am not sure) but long osm story short 2 years later that $471.81 has never shown up on any credit reports, I have received no notices (still at the same residence no changes) so yeah I got that piece for free


----------



## waveaddict

Hey all,happy T-Day.
Just wanted to share my recent OC'ing experience.Had my 6100 stable @ 4.5 using multi per guide.Got bored and decided to try a different OC,FSB+ turbo again per the guide.
Had it stable with P95 small FFT for 30 min. no issues.IBT,no problem.
multi- 18.5
FSB-240
ram-1599 ( close to spec @ 1600mhz) 9,9,9,24
nb-2650
ht-2650
Temps were good as well,never went above 45c on cores and 50c on socket with small FFT's.
Got greety and tweaked the numbers and couldn't get back,unstable.No matter what,even putting it back with the above settings.Which I should of left alone because everything
was running good and smooth.








Went back to default and tried a Muti+FSB,that didn't work at all,lock ups all over the place.So now I'm back to default settings,3.3 with turbo @ 3.9:thumbsdowI don't think these
6100 chips like a FSB OC,or maybe I just got a unlucky chip,or maybe my board can't handle to high of an OC,or maybe I should just stick with a simple multi OC?

Is doing all this different OC's bad for the chip/board,I mean re setting to default,oc'ing,back to default and so on.I'm sure it puts wear and tear on the components.
I might be tossing this chip and at least getting a 8320.Newegg has it right now for $129.

Any thoughts


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Hey all,happy T-Day.
> Just wanted to share my recent OC'ing experience.Had my 6100 stable @ 4.5 using multi per guide.Got bored and decided to try a different OC,FSB+ turbo again per the guide.
> Had it stable with P95 small FFT for 30 min. no issues.IBT,no problem.
> multi- 18.5
> FSB-240
> ram-1599 ( close to spec @ 1600mhz) 9,9,9,24
> nb-2650
> ht-2650
> Temps were good as well,never went above 45c on cores and 50c on socket with small FFT's.
> Got greety and tweaked the numbers and couldn't get back,unstable.No matter what,even putting it back with the above settings.Which I should of left alone because everything
> was running good and smooth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Went back to default and tried a Muti+FSB,that didn't work at all,lock ups all over the place.So now I'm back to default settings,3.3 with turbo @ 3.9:thumbsdowI don't think these
> 6100 chips like a FSB OC,or maybe I just got a unlucky chip,or maybe my board can't handle to high of an OC,or maybe I should just stick with a simple multi OC?
> 
> Is doing all this different OC's bad for the chip/board,I mean re setting to default,oc'ing,back to default and so on.I'm sure it puts wear and tear on the components.
> I might be tossing this chip and at least getting a 8320.Newegg has it right now for $129.
> 
> Any thoughts


If you ran P95 for only 30 minuets there's no way you could say/tell if your system was stable to begin with.
Have you tried to clear the CMOS, and than retry previous settings?

You also need to consider your mobo has 4+2 phase count and unheatsinked VRM's.
Not a good combination if you hoping to OC much at all.
Adding HS's and a fan blowing directly onto them may help.

Changing the settings in bios back and forth is not harmful at all.
Quality components will hold there own when OC'd but the budget boards components will show their limitations quickly when stressed.

If it was me I'd think about upgrading the mobo instead of the CPU.
A better mobo will allow better OC's on the FX6100 (using less voltage) plus be able to handle the 83xx series where your present mobo won't handle it at all.

This may help explain more in detail if you're interested http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> If you ran P95 for only 30 minuets there's no way you could say/tell if your system was stable to begin with.
> Have you tried to clear the CMOS, and than retry previous settings?
> 
> You also need to consider your mobo has 4+2 phase count and unheatsinked VRM's.
> Not a good combination if you hoping to OC much at all.
> Adding HS's and a fan blowing directly onto them may help.
> 
> Changing the settings in bios back and forth is not harmful at all.
> Quality components will hold there own when OC'd but the budget boards components will show their limitations quickly when stressed.
> 
> If it was me I'd think about upgrading the mobo instead of the CPU.
> A better mobo will allow better OC's on the FX6100 (using less voltage) plus be able to handle the 83xx series where your present mobo won't handle it at all.
> 
> This may help explain more in detail if you're interested http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database


Thanks sandman,
the 30 min P95 small fft was only between steps,P95 BLEND for 4 hours was done as well (sorry should of mentioned)
Haven't tried CMOS yet.Yah,I know not to expect much with this MOBO thought I could at least get 4.5 out of it.I'll keep things mello and keep an eye on temps.Probably do an upgrade here soon,either MOBO or MOBO/CPU.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Oh and anyone want to share what I could expect if I decide in the near future to upgrade to one of the "9000" series chips. I understand they are from what I can tell cherry picked FX 8350's, but hope someone has some info or personal experience on OCing expereience with them because I can get around 4.7 with my 8320 and am not a rich man so wasting money would be annoying.


If you are able to hit 4.7 with your current chip, and don't have a use for an additional chip already, I wouldn't advise getting a 9000 series chip. My first 9590 caps out at 4.9 when running RAM at rated 1866, and 5.0 when running RAM at 1600. I have a second 9590 that I just picked up at MC, and I'll post if it performs any differently. Note that I have not seen any significantly better performance mentioned in posts from others that have purchased these chips. I was moving up from an 8350 that was peaking at 4.4GHz, so I'm satisfied (was guaranteed a 300MHz increase and ended up with a 500MHz increase).

This thread covers the 9000 series:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1414604/any-9590-or-9370-overclocking-results/270


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> If you are able to hit 4.7 with your current chip, and don't have a use for an additional chip already, I wouldn't advise getting a 9000 series chip. My first 9590 caps out at 4.9 when running RAM at rated 1866, and 5.0 when running RAM at 1600. I have a second 9590 that I just picked up at MC, and I'll post if it performs any differently. Note that I have not seen any significantly better performance mentioned in posts from others that have purchased these chips. I was moving up from an 8350 that was peaking at 4.4GHz, so I'm satisfied (was guaranteed a 300MHz increase and ended up with a 500MHz increase).
> 
> This thread covers the 9000 series:
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1414604/any-9590-or-9370-overclocking-results/270


Care to post a Cinebench 11.5 run with your 5ghz clock?

This is my 8320:


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Care to post a Cinebench 11.5 run with your 5ghz clock?
> 
> This is my 8320:


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Care to post a Cinebench 11.5 run with your 5ghz clock?
> 
> This is my 8320:


This is at 4.9GHz - will revert settings in Bios and repost with 5GHz shortly.

CBR11.5Capture4.9GHzstockVRAM1866.PNG 254k .PNG file


----------



## Karameikos

and this is at 5GHz with RAM lowered to 1600MHz, CPU increased to 1.548V load, CPU-NB increased to 1.25V:

CBR11.5Capture5.0GHzOVRAM1600.PNG 245k .PNG file


A 2% higher score for a 2% OC. H80i fans kicked up a lot sooner though, due to the increased voltages.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> and this is at 5GHz with RAM lowered to 1600MHz, CPU increased to 1.548V load, CPU-NB increased to 1.25V:
> 
> CBR11.5Capture5.0GHzOVRAM1600.PNG 245k .PNG file
> 
> 
> A 2% higher score for a 2% OC. H80i fans kicked up a lot sooner though, due to the increased voltages.


Alright thanks.
Confirms what I already thought.

9000 series is nothing more then higher clocked 83x0 chips.

I am still pretty amazed that my 8320 can cope with the your score.
Especially when considering my cpu costs about 136 euro($184) compared to the 9590 which costs about 274 euro($372) here.

But anyway.
How are the temps with the 4.9 clock? My h100 definitely can't cope with my 5ghz clock at around 1.55v.


----------



## miklkit

Now you are scaring me. Two others are reporting higher clocks and lower vcores. My cooling can handle what they are reporting, but probably not what you are running.

What to do?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Now you are scaring me. Two others are reporting higher clocks and lower vcores. My cooling can handle what they are reporting, but probably not what you are running.
> 
> What to do?


Like you say. Two others.

As always you play gamble in the silicon lottery.

Can you give some more info on your situation.
Do you want to upgrade from a 8350 cpu?

If so I think you would be better of to just spend money on decent cooling and push your current chip....


----------



## miklkit

I'm on an 8350 and it is already being pushed too hard. The vcore is set to 1.617v in bios which translates into spikes of 1.58v, idle of 1.43v, and stress tests @ 1.52v. This is already more than I want to push it for everyday use, and it is only 4.7ghz and barely stable.

I have taken it to 5ghz and LIKE the way it runs there except it is unstable and too hot. If I could get 5ghz at these voltages I would be happy, and that is what the others are doing.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I'm on an 8350 and it is already being pushed too hard. The vcore is set to 1.617v in bios which translates into spikes of 1.58v, idle of 1.43v, and stress tests @ 1.52v. This is already more than I want to push it for everyday use, and it is only 4.7ghz and barely stable.
> 
> I have taken it to 5ghz and LIKE the way it runs there except it is unstable and too hot. If I could get 5ghz at these voltages I would be happy, and that is what the others are doing.


Sux to hear that. thought for sure most would be able to get 4.8ghz with at least very good air cpu cooler like yours.

I'm using a custom loop and am at 24/7 5.0ghz at 1.49v room temp of 75deg sometimes we get lucky.









If your looking for a cheap custom loop the XSPC Raystorm is what I have,

If your after cpu only you could do AX240 with push pull 2000rpm fans depending on what your case can hold.

If you have to do external then I rec going at least AX360, there are other options. this is what I have and have enjoyed for sure.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Sux to hear that. thought for sure most would be able to get 4.8ghz with at least very good air cpu cooler like yours.
> 
> I'm using a custom loop and am at 24/7 5.0ghz at 1.49v room temp of 75deg sometimes we get lucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your looking for a cheap custom loop the XSPC Raystorm is what I have,
> 
> If your after cpu only you could do AX240 with push pull 2000rpm fans depending on what your case can hold.
> 
> If you have to do external then I rec going at least AX360, there are other options. this is what I have and have enjoyed for sure.


How are your typical load and stressing temps with that voltage and clock?


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Sux to hear that. thought for sure most would be able to get 4.8ghz with at least very good air cpu cooler like yours.
> 
> I'm using a custom loop and am at 24/7 5.0ghz at 1.49v room temp of 75deg sometimes we get lucky.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your looking for a cheap custom loop the XSPC Raystorm is what I have,
> 
> If your after cpu only you could do AX240 with push pull 2000rpm fans depending on what your case can hold.
> 
> If you have to do external then I rec going at least AX360, there are other options. this is what I have and have enjoyed for sure.


If I could run your volts and be stable I would be there already. I have gone as high as 1.65 vcore and gained nothing but heat. 1.52 vcore while stress testing is as far as I want to go, and this cooler does that fine.

Two out of the three 9XXX owners have reported using vcores in my range, so I might get one and see how I do in the silicon lottery again. I will only go water if I get one and then find it runs too hot on air.


----------



## bangbangbowman

Wanted to get opinions of some people here. When overclocking and doing a prolonged stability test, when it comes to the temp of the cpu. I know the max is 62 c but in that stability test how much of a buffer do you prefer to have between the max temp and your overclocking temp of the cpu?


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Alright thanks.
> Confirms what I already thought.
> 
> 9000 series is nothing more then higher clocked 83x0 chips.
> 
> I am still pretty amazed that my 8320 can cope with the your score.
> Especially when considering my cpu costs about 136 euro($184) compared to the 9590 which costs about 274 euro($372) here.
> 
> But anyway.
> How are the temps with the 4.9 clock? My h100 definitely can't cope with my 5ghz clock at around 1.55v.


9000 series were binned specifically for low leakage, so theoretically they should hit higher clocks with less heat at comparable voltage settings to other chips. That's not to say that low leakage chips were not already in the mix of 8000 series out there.

You definitely have a choice 8320









With stock voltages for the 4.9GHz, temps were generally around 58C Core and 68C Socket while stressing with P95, with peaks of 62C Core and 70C Socket. Ambient temp 20C, with a dual fan H80i (push-pull config), and a 120mm fan blowing on my socket backplate at a 45 degree angle.

Heading out on a 2 week business trip again, so it will be a while before I test the 2nd 9590.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> 9000 series were binned specifically for low leakage, so theoretically they should hit higher clocks with less heat at comparable voltage settings to other chips. That's not to say that low leakage chips were not already in the mix of 8000 series out there.
> 
> You definitely have a choice 8320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With stock voltages for the 4.9GHz, temps were generally around 58C Core and 68C Socket while stressing with P95, with peaks of 62C Core and 70C Socket. Ambient temp 20C, with a dual fan H80i (push-pull config), and a 120mm fan blowing on my socket backplate at a 45 degree angle.
> 
> Heading out on a 2 week business trip again, so it will be a while before I test the 2nd 9590.


Yeah thanks, it really looks like I was lucky with my 8320.
But not so with my board(990fxa-ud3 rev 1.0). I am pretty sure my board is holding me back.


----------



## bangbangbowman

Some help please, I ran a custom torture test with 70% load for the ram for 74 minutes and all cores passed with no errors. The software I'm using is giving me some weird info. The bios settings are: cpu clock ratio is at x23/4600mhz and CPU core voltage is bumped up by 0.075V. I used CPUID Monitor and AMD Overdrive to monitor CPU temps. CPUID HW Mon game me weird readings, the tempin 0, 1, 2 were showing for the max temp of 128c or so but when I was monitoring it was at 60 - 70c. The CPU vcore was fluctuate between 1.233 and 1.344 when I watched it but said the max was 2.016. The cpui package temp was stable at 53 c for most of the time but maxed out at 56c when i personally watched it, I left the room briefly and came back it said the temp was 56c but the max temp it reached was 96c. I stopped the test at that point, I also noted overdrive said the cpu temp was 64-67c. I know the max is 62c so that's why I'm posting, very confusing numbers. I'd appreciate help or suggestions for alternative monitoring programs. Thank you


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bangbangbowman*
> 
> Some help please, I ran a custom torture test with 70% load for the ram for 74 minutes and all cores passed with no errors. The software I'm using is giving me some weird info. The bios settings are: cpu clock ratio is at x23/4600mhz and CPU core voltage is bumped up by 0.075V. I used CPUID Monitor and AMD Overdrive to monitor CPU temps. CPUID HW Mon game me weird readings, the tempin 0, 1, 2 were showing for the max temp of 128c or so but when I was monitoring it was at 60 - 70c. The CPU vcore was fluctuate between 1.233 and 1.344 when I watched it but said the max was 2.016. The cpui package temp was stable at 53 c for most of the time but maxed out at 56c when i personally watched it, I left the room briefly and came back it said the temp was 56c but the max temp it reached was 96c. I stopped the test at that point, I also noted overdrive said the cpu temp was 64-67c. I know the max is 62c so that's why I'm posting, very confusing numbers. I'd appreciate help or suggestions for alternative monitoring programs. Thank you


I cannot follow you clearly.

Can you post screenshots?
You talk about the max temp for the cpu is 62c. That is for the cores. Socket temp may go up to 72c.
As for the 128c readouts. I have had that before too. False reading. 96c looks false to me too. No way it shoots to that temp while staying around 64 for most of the time.

Last but not least. Can you fill in your system in the rig builder on your user page? And link that to your sig. Makes it easier for us to help you.


----------



## aas88keyz

Having so many monitoring software running at the same time tends not to be compatible with each other and will conflict readings. If you are trying to compare temps and voltage readings between monitoring programs try only starting one at a time. Then when you are ready to compare using the other monitoring software be sure you close the first one and then open the next one. When you are finished comparing and you are pretty sure which one is giving you the most accurate reading you probably want to uninstall any others to prevent conflict in the future.


----------



## bangbangbowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I cannot follow you clearly.
> 
> Can you post screenshots?
> You talk about the max temp for the cpu is 62c. That is for the cores. Socket temp may go up to 72c.
> As for the 128c readouts. I have had that before too. False reading. 96c looks false to me too. No way it shoots to that temp while staying around 64 for most of the time.
> 
> Last but not least. Can you fill in your system in the rig builder on your user page? And link that to your sig. Makes it easier for us to help you.


I have put my rig in the rig builder section like you requested. No I don't have a screenshot, I'll do another torture test, with just HW Monitor running. How long would you recommend to run it for and then give you a screenshot?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bangbangbowman*
> 
> I have put my rig in the rig builder section like you requested. No I don't have a screenshot, I'll do another torture test, with just HW Monitor running. How long would you recommend to run it for and then give you a screenshot?


Do a prime smallFFTs run for like 10 minutes or so.

Or just stop when you think you reach unsafe temps.


----------



## bangbangbowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Do a prime smallFFTs run for like 10 minutes or so.
> 
> Or just stop when you think you reach unsafe temps.


I ran a custom test prior to your reply and just stopped. BIOS settings are the same, 4600 mhz and +0.075 on the voltage. What do you think? Screenshot below


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bangbangbowman*
> 
> I ran a custom test prior to your reply and just stopped. BIOS settings are the same, 4600 mhz and +0.075 on the voltage. What do you think? Screenshot below


I don't know exactly which temps are which.

But your cores(displayed as package) are around 56c so I presume to 68c reading is your socket temp.
In that case you are nearing your limit. You can push till either of these reaches 62c or 72c respectively.

But it looks like you have APM Master Mode enabled or on auto. Put that on disable.
Also disable Turbo core if you haven't already.

It's always better to disabled any power saving features while stress testing. They can be enabled later when desired.


----------



## bangbangbowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I don't know exactly which temps are which.
> 
> But your cores(displayed as package) are around 56c so I presume to 68c reading is your socket temp.
> In that case you are nearing your limit. You can push till either of these reaches 62c or 72c respectively.
> 
> But it looks like you have APM Master Mode enabled or on auto. Put that on disable.
> Also disable Turbo core if you haven't already.
> 
> It's always better to disabled any power saving features while stress testing. They can be enabled later when desired.


Is there no software that shows the socket and cpu temp? Also if I disable these should I just leave them disabled?


----------



## bangbangbowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I don't know exactly which temps are which.
> 
> But your cores(displayed as package) are around 56c so I presume to 68c reading is your socket temp.
> In that case you are nearing your limit. You can push till either of these reaches 62c or 72c respectively.
> 
> But it looks like you have APM Master Mode enabled or on auto. Put that on disable.
> Also disable Turbo core if you haven't already.
> 
> It's always better to disabled any power saving features while stress testing. They can be enabled later when desired.


I dont see any of those settings in bios I did disable the cpu fan control so it would run at max all the time.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bangbangbowman*
> 
> Is there no software that shows the socket and cpu temp? Also if I disable these should I just leave them disabled?


Most here use HWInfo64 (or 32) http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
Depends on the mobo sensors (which/how many) as to what the utilities are able to display.


----------



## bangbangbowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Most here use HWInfo64 (or 32) http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
> Depends on the mobo sensors (which/how many) as to what the utilities are able to display.


Thanks for the reply, I downloaded and where it shows the cores the ThermaMon is N/A


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bangbangbowman*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I downloaded and where it shows the cores the ThermaMon is N/A


When you run it you must choose "sensors only"


----------



## bangbangbowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> When you run it you must choose "sensors only"


Thank you! I like this program the best! Im restarting my overclocking today and im going to run a stress test for 8 or more hours while im at work and ill move on from there


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bangbangbowman*
> 
> Thank you! I like this program the best! Im restarting my overclocking today and im going to run a stress test for 8 or more hours while im at work and ill move on from there


Alright.
How's it going?

I see you also run your cpu of the 990fxa-ud3 board. Which revision do you have?


----------



## bangbangbowman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Alright.
> How's it going?
> 
> I see you also run your cpu of the 990fxa-ud3 board. Which revision do you have?


I'll let you knpw how it went tonight it was good when I left after a hour of running. Its revision 1 according to my @bios


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bangbangbowman*
> 
> I'll let you knpw how it went tonight it was good when I left after a hour of running. Its revision 1 according to my @bios


My condolence.

I also have the revision 1.0 but it is a total pain in the but for me.
Vrm cooling aint so great and the lack of LLC also is a bummer.


----------



## Diwiak

hi guys, WONDERFULL guide here, have few questions,

I set my fresh FX6300 to default bios settings and it shows me vcore of 1.380, som I put some clocks in there







and set vcore to manual mode and 1.380V(as I understood from this guide),

now Iam running somewhere at 4.5GHz with "stock" voltage (1.380/1.416), temperature is hitting 59 / 52 C degrees in "burn"

*QUESTION* is that HW monitors (hwinfo, hw monitor) shows voltage of 1.416V - whats wrong?? voltage in bios is fixed to those 1.380, so is there wrong sensor or..??..

what exp u have with similar build?? FX6300 + M5a97 EVO R2.0 + ZALMAN CNPS9900MAX

thanks


----------



## The Sandman

Check in bios what the CPU LLC (Load Line Calibration) is set to.
Most likely normal and expected due to load applied.


----------



## Diwiak

..and what LLC do u recommend?? because its M5a97 board, and from the guide its better to set LLC to auto on these.

is 1.4V too much ?? isnt my temp high?? (btw. in 3DMark full run it reach max 46/44 C degrees)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diwiak*
> 
> ..and what LLC do u recommend?? because its M5a97 board, and from the guide its better to set LLC to auto on these.
> 
> is 1.4V too much ?? isnt my temp high?? (btw. in 3DMark full run it reach max 46/44 C degrees)


My board lacks the LLC feature.
But I do advice you to just test things out to see what works best for you.

1.416v is fine.
It's better to keep an eye on the temps then on the voltage with these cpu's.
But as you say you only hit 59/52 while burning you are good to go. Push on!


----------



## Diwiak

..and what burn test you prefer? Iam using P95 but read somewhere that IBT is better for that.


----------



## link1393

Ok, now I have this think









I have these setting :

CPU voltage : 1.443750V
FSB : 200Mhz
Multi : 22.5
VDDA : 2.625V
RAM : 1333Mhz
DRAM Voltage : 1.5V
Digi+ setting are what is recommended on first page.

All other setting are at stock, but not at Auto.

When I go to 4.6Ghz I need to push my voltage to 1.48 and a little bit more if I want to get it stable.

Do you can help me to push it higher than 4.5 ?

after 30min. I got 56C on core and 65C on socket, but my fan are only at 1600RPM (on a blend test).

EDIT : the temp have drop to 53C core and 61C socket 12min after.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> Ok, now I have this think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have these setting :
> 
> CPU voltage : 1.443750V
> FSB : 200Mhz
> Multi : 22.5
> VDDA : 2.625V
> RAM : 1333Mhz
> DRAM Voltage : 1.5V
> Digi+ setting are what is recommended on first page.
> 
> All other setting are at stock, but not at Auto.
> 
> When I go to 4.6Ghz I need to push my voltage to 1.48 and a little bit more if I want to get it stable.
> 
> Do you can help me to push it higher than 4.5 ?
> 
> after 30min. I got 56C on core and 65C on socket, but my fan are only at 1600RPM (on a blend test).
> 
> EDIT : the temp have drop to 53C core and 61C socket 12min after.


I need with LLC (ultra high on my 990fx sabertooth R. 2) under load about 1.488 vcore , and yeah I mean getting to 4.5-4.6 is pretty damn good i would say considering % gain over stock, price and, that it isn't the "top bin" of the line, but yeah I need 1.488 - 1,5+ which is way too hot and damn high voltage if I want to get much higher.


----------



## Chopper1591

Hi guys,

I don't know if this is the right place to ask this, but...

Today I ordered a 990fx sabertooth r2.0 to replace my headache of a 990fxa-ud3 rev1.0.
I already found out that the kitty has much more bios settings.

I am looking for guys/girls who also have the kitty(990fx r2.0) paired with either a fx-8350 or fx-8320.
What I would like is a few examples of bios settings used to overclock the 83x0 chips.

Thing will be cooled by a h100 in a 650d case.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I don't know if this is the right place to ask this, but...
> 
> Today I ordered a 990fx sabertooth r2.0 to replace my headache of a 990fxa-ud3 rev1.0.
> I already found out that the kitty has much more bios settings.
> 
> I am looking for guys/girls who also have the kitty(990fx r2.0) paired with either a fx-8350 or fx-8320.
> What I would like is a few examples of bios settings used to overclock the 83x0 chips.
> 
> Thing will be cooled by a h100 in a 650d case.


hi mr

i will screenshot my bios for u


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I don't know if this is the right place to ask this, but...
> 
> Today I ordered a 990fx sabertooth r2.0 to replace my headache of a 990fxa-ud3 rev1.0.
> I already found out that the kitty has much more bios settings.
> 
> I am looking for guys/girls who also have the kitty(990fx r2.0) paired with either a fx-8350 or fx-8320.
> What I would like is a few examples of bios settings used to overclock the 83x0 chips.
> 
> Thing will be cooled by a h100 in a 650d case.


im not home but I can help you out as well. .what all are you looking for exactly,, my general settings and voltages will be off from what you normally see as my chip sucks

here is also the official saberkitty club

http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/6040#post_21347087


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I don't know if this is the right place to ask this, but...
> 
> Today I ordered a 990fx sabertooth r2.0 to replace my headache of a 990fxa-ud3 rev1.0.
> I already found out that the kitty has much more bios settings.
> 
> I am looking for guys/girls who also have the kitty(990fx r2.0) paired with either a fx-8350 or fx-8320.
> What I would like is a few examples of bios settings used to overclock the 83x0 chips.
> 
> Thing will be cooled by a h100 in a 650d case.





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> I don't know if this is the right place to ask this, but...
> 
> Today I ordered a 990fx sabertooth r2.0 to replace my headache of a 990fxa-ud3 rev1.0.
> I already found out that the kitty has much more bios settings.
> 
> I am looking for guys/girls who also have the kitty(990fx r2.0) paired with either a fx-8350 or fx-8320.
> What I would like is a few examples of bios settings used to overclock the 83x0 chips.
> 
> Thing will be cooled by a h100 in a 650d case.


i can help with any questions you have


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Th_Remedy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> Ok, now I have this think
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have these setting :
> 
> CPU voltage : 1.443750V
> FSB : 200Mhz
> Multi : 22.5
> VDDA : 2.625V
> RAM : 1333Mhz
> DRAM Voltage : 1.5V
> Digi+ setting are what is recommended on first page.
> 
> All other setting are at stock, but not at Auto.
> 
> When I go to 4.6Ghz I need to push my voltage to 1.48 and a little bit more if I want to get it stable.
> 
> Do you can help me to push it higher than 4.5 ?
> 
> after 30min. I got 56C on core and 65C on socket, but my fan are only at 1600RPM (on a blend test).
> 
> EDIT : the temp have drop to 53C core and 61C socket 12min after.
> 
> 
> 
> I need with LLC (ultra high on my 990fx sabertooth R. 2) under load about 1.488 vcore , and yeah I mean getting to 4.5-4.6 is pretty damn good i would say considering % gain over stock, price and, that it isn't the "top bin" of the line, but yeah I need 1.488 - 1,5+ which is way too hot and damn high voltage if I want to get much higher.
Click to expand...

Yes my LLC is a t ultra high too, and I am stable @ 4.5Ghz with 1.456250v


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> im not home but I can help you out as well. .what all are you looking for exactly,, my general settings and voltages will be off from what you normally see as my chip sucks
> 
> here is also the official saberkitty club
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1035333/official-asus-sabertooth-amd-owners-club/6040#post_21347087


Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thank you









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i can help with any questions you have


Alright, I will contact you if needed.

If everything works well the board will be delivered today.










Am I right to be hyped about this board compared to my 990fxa-ud3?
Don't hope to get disappointed.
The voltage regulation is really bad on the ud3. Lack of LLC. Kinda bad vrm cooling. Broken NB temp sensor...
Weird slow downs and blue screens from time to time....


----------



## Mega Man

you wont be sad ! it is an epic board !


----------



## piranha

Stable 5ghz and all cpu features running now as well so idle doesn't use as much energy


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> Stable 5ghz and all cpu features running now as well so idle doesn't use as much energy


And that is cooled by what?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> Stable 5ghz and all cpu features running now as well so idle doesn't use as much energy
> 
> 
> 
> And that is cooled by what?
Click to expand...

+1
+ define stable !

gaming stable
benching stable
prime/ibt-avx stable

FYI there are 2 forms of ibt. normal ibt (if you dont know about the avx version, yours is normal ~ 40-50gflos = normal ibt, 85-100gflops = ibt-avx )

to find IBT-AVX look in my sig opening post of the 83xx club


----------



## piranha

All no crashes or bsod either, h100 with sp120hp


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> All no crashes or bsod either, h100 with sp120hp


Detailed settings?

If the h100 cuts it its a good job IMO.


----------



## piranha

When I get home ill give settings


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> All no crashes or bsod either, h100 with sp120hp


translation without any stress, please dont claim this as stable without clarifying

also please dont think i am telling you you have to run a stability program.

but on the same hand i dont want someone to think they can go buy a 8350, cheap mobo, and h100 ( or h100i ) and get 5ghz prime stable. ( which has been a huge problem, between 212evos and h100s)

people see these amazing builds @ 5ghz and they think they can do it, which unless you got a golden chip, you cant.

lastly i would caution against this, and here is why


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> translation without any stress, please dont claim this as stable without clarifying
> 
> also please dont think i am telling you you have to run a stability program.
> 
> but on the same hand i dont want someone to think they can go buy a 8350, cheap mobo, and h100 ( or h100i ) and get 5ghz prime stable. ( which has been a huge problem, between 212evos and h100s)
> 
> people see these amazing builds @ 5ghz and they think they can do it, which unless you got a golden chip, you cant.
> 
> lastly i would caution against this, and here is why


+Rep









I couldn't have said this better myself.
In just the last couple years (since the release of FX?) the term stable has taken on a completely different meaning/s.

No proof = don't claim you are stable


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> +Rep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I couldn't have said this better myself.
> In just the last couple years (since the release of FX?) the term stable has taken on a completely different meaning/s.
> 
> No proof = don't claim you are stable


I'm stable at 5Gz


----------



## ashyg

Just got a Kill-a-Watt meter.

Daym do these thing suck power haha. System load idle was about 110, running prime at 4.2 (1.3v) or 4.4 (1.35) was pulling 260/270 watts, thats before GPU.

Dialed it back to 3.8 @ 1.2v, alongside my undervolted 7950, stock clocks, but undervolt from 1.15 to 1.0

Getting around 250-260 total wattage playing BF4 now, power is expensive here ._.


----------



## Malcom28

I cant see content when i press on spoiler it jumps right to the page top..


----------



## Mega Man

reload it happens when the page does not fully load, i am not be able to see rigs in sigs also when this happens


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

There was a fix for this released yesterday (_my_ bug report, thank you very much







). Clear your cache and it should be better.


----------



## Moragg

Finally installed my 8320! Just got a few questions:

I can't POST with a CPU/NB above 2600MHz, even with 1.35V on it. What is the highest that I should push cpu/nb voltage, and would increasing NB or CPU voltage help stabilize this? Is it possible that my RAM (1.5V 1600 CL9) is limiting my cpu/nb OC?

Is there any benefit to leaving HT at 2600MHz, or should I just downclock that to 2200MHz?

I can hit 4.2GHz before thermal limitations, but I'm having trouble getting 2600MHz cpu/nb stable at this OC.


----------



## Mega Man

yes bump the nb up from stock ~.1v chould help, also may need to bump vcore a bump or 2


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes bump the nb up from stock ~.1v chould help, also may need to bump vcore a bump or 2


Hm... increased stability a bit, but my vcore is already near it's limits (bad cooling). For whatever reason, cores 1 and 2 just kept failing seconds into a blend test, but the other cores were fine. I've managed to get 4.4GHz w 2400MHz cpu/nb stable though, which is an improvement.


----------



## Diwiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashyg*
> 
> Just got a Kill-a-Watt meter.
> 
> Daym do these thing suck power haha. System load idle was about 110, running prime at 4.2 (1.3v) or 4.4 (1.35) was pulling 260/270 watts, thats before GPU.
> 
> Dialed it back to 3.8 @ 1.2v, alongside my undervolted 7950, stock clocks, but undervolt from 1.15 to 1.0
> 
> Getting around 250-260 total wattage playing BF4 now, power is expensive here ._.










mine getting to 500W (Prime95+Furmark burn), FC3 gameplay 400W









energy is expensive here too, but between factory and overclock theres not huge difference, did some calculating and we are talking maybe of 10-15EURs per year, so dont panic.. and its cold here now, so another heat unit is not bad


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Hm... increased stability a bit, but my vcore is already near it's limits (bad cooling). For whatever reason, cores 1 and 2 just kept failing seconds into a blend test, but the other cores were fine. I've managed to get 4.4GHz w 2400MHz cpu/nb stable though, which is an improvement.


You say you are running 1600mhz ram right?
If so, overclocking the cpu-nb nets almost none performance increase. I would leave the cpu-nb clock and voltage at stock to lower the cpu temp a bit.

Which cooling are you running btw? Have you already tried putting a fan behind the motherboard? So that there is cold air being blown to the backside of the socket.


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> You say you are running 1600mhz ram right?
> If so, overclocking the cpu-nb nets almost none performance increase. I would leave the cpu-nb clock and voltage at stock to lower the cpu temp a bit.
> 
> Which cooling are you running btw? Have you already tried putting a fan behind the motherboard? So that there is cold air being blown to the backside of the socket.


Really? I got massive performance boosts on my 1055T from OCing the CPU/NB - would getting faster RAM (1866+) and OCing that and the cpu/nb make much of a difference (or make it easier to stabilise)?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Really? I got massive performance boosts on my 1055T from OCing the CPU/NB - would getting faster RAM (1866+) and OCing that and the cpu/nb make much of a difference (or make it easier to stabilise)?


The bans yes there was a boost fx line there is not


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Really? I got massive performance boosts on my 1055T from OCing the CPU/NB - would getting faster RAM (1866+) and OCing that and the cpu/nb make much of a difference (or make it easier to stabilise)?
> 
> 
> 
> The bans yes there was a boost fx line there is not
Click to expand...

Only just realised you meant "Thubans"

I'm pretty sure it could help - e.g. there are parts of Skyrim where I have GPU utilisation at 80% and (apparently) no single CPU thread above 80% - a similar to situation to what I had with my 1055T, and one which was solved by OCing CPU/nb.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> Only just realised you meant "Thubans"
> 
> I'm pretty sure it could help - e.g. there are parts of Skyrim where I have GPU utilisation at 80% and (apparently) no single CPU thread above 80% - a similar to situation to what I had with my 1055T, and one which was solved by OCing CPU/nb.


Stupid autocorrect.. my bad..

That is because amds weak point is single core compute. Skyrim is coded in old coding format and the bottleneck is not the ram or cpunb unlike how it was with the thubans


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Stupid autocorrect.. my bad..
> 
> That is because amds weak point is single core compute. Skyrim is coded in old coding format and the bottleneck is not the ram or cpunb unlike how it was with the thubans


I know, but no cores are being used 100% - which is weird. There must be a bottleneck, and last time I encountered this exact problem CPU/NB was the bottleneck.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I know, but no cores are being used 100% - which is weird. There must be a bottleneck, and last time I encountered this exact problem CPU/NB was the bottleneck.


It's coding issue

True this fix.. you should see improvement

http://www.overclock.net/t/1402792/hwbot-the-stilt-releases-bulldozer-conditioner-software-amd-superpi-history-to-be-re-written


----------



## Moragg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moragg*
> 
> I know, but no cores are being used 100% - which is weird. There must be a bottleneck, and last time I encountered this exact problem CPU/NB was the bottleneck.
> 
> 
> 
> It's coding issue
> 
> True this fix.. you should see improvement
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1402792/hwbot-the-stilt-releases-bulldozer-conditioner-software-amd-superpi-history-to-be-re-written
Click to expand...

Maybe a frame more... nevertheless, thanks for the help!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> The bans yes there was a boost fx line there is not


Yeah when I used my 955 BE I also got a decent boost when overclocking the cpu-nb with ram speeds of just 1600mhz.
Don't know why but the fx chips indeed only net performance boost beyond 1866 ram when overclocking the cpu-nb


----------



## AmcieK

Hi guys







i change my cooler to prolimatech megahalems with two corsair sp 120 . and try oc to 4,6 butt my problem is temp :/
My last stable oc is 4,3 with 1,308 V

http://i.imgur.com/CzimmFJ.png
http://i.imgur.com/fYz76rw.png
http://i.imgur.com/L1I2S8f.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/xjboNax.png

Any idea what change ?

Efter 2 round in bf4 59C


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i change my cooler to prolimatech megahalems with two corsair sp 120 . and try oc to 4,6 butt my problem is temp :/


I run my CPU-NB at no more than 1.25 Volts, and that is with 2133 Mhz RAM and CPU at 4.6 GHz. 1.4 Volts seem excessive to me. My CPU Vcore is at 1.48 V. You might have run into the max heat your cooler can take, but I would check the mounting of the cooler, do a remount (remember to always clean a re-apply thermal compound) and see if anything changes. I have liquid cooling, but I think that it was possible for me to run 4.6 GHz with my Thermaltake Frio.


----------



## Chopper1591

Can someone help me on this?

I am using my new Sabertooth R2.0 for the first time now, coming from a 990fxa-ud3.

I followed the advised settings on the first page of the guide.
Problem is that my cpu-nb seems to default at 1.4v. The default for 83x0 chips is around 1.125v right?



I also upgraded from a 8gb kit of Vengeance 1866 ram to a 8gb kit of TridentX 2400 cl9 ram.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can someone help me on this?
> 
> I am using my new Sabertooth R2.0 for the first time now, coming from a 990fxa-ud3.
> 
> I followed the advised settings on the first page of the guide.
> Problem is that my cpu-nb seems to default at 1.4v. The default for 83x0 chips is around 1.125v right?
> 
> 
> 
> I also upgraded from a 8gb kit of Vengeance 1866 ram to a 8gb kit of TridentX 2400 cl9 ram.


Nice Upgrade!!!

The CPU Northbridge is usually around 1.25v i think. I run mine around 1.35v Not sure why it would default to 1.4v That'll def heat things up.

To think of it your bios settings are probably high if your AI suite is using that. Either dont use AI suite or set your bios to default settings. Then use AI suite


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Nice Upgrade!!!
> 
> The CPU Northbridge is usually around 1.25v i think. I run mine around 1.35v Not sure why it would default to 1.4v That'll def heat things up.
> 
> Do you have advanced mode in the bios or is that it. To me that looks like the AI suite/EZ bios.


Yeah that shot is from the ai suite...
But in bios, advanced, it defaults at 1.4.
I can use the offset "-" function though.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah that shot is from the ai suite...
> But in bios, advanced, it defaults at 1.4.
> I can use the offset "-" function though.


Hmm. Indeed strange. If the bios is using 1.40 I'd offset it first in the bios and then run prime and see how she reacts.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i change my cooler to prolimatech megahalems with two corsair sp 120 . and try oc to 4,6 butt my problem is temp :/
> 
> 
> 
> I run my CPU-NB at no more than 1.25 Volts, and that is with 2133 Mhz RAM and CPU at 4.6 GHz. 1.4 Volts seem excessive to me. My CPU Vcore is at 1.48 V. You might have run into the max heat your cooler can take, but I would check the mounting of the cooler, do a remount (remember to always clean a re-apply thermal compound) and see if anything changes. I have liquid cooling, but I think that it was possible for me to run 4.6 GHz with my Thermaltake Frio.
Click to expand...

+1 alotta heat @1.4
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can someone help me on this?
> 
> I am using my new Sabertooth R2.0 for the first time now, coming from a 990fxa-ud3.
> 
> I followed the advised settings on the first page of the guide.
> Problem is that my cpu-nb seems to default at 1.4v. The default for 83x0 chips is around 1.125v right?
> 
> 
> 
> I also upgraded from a 8gb kit of Vengeance 1866 ram to a 8gb kit of TridentX 2400 cl9 ram.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Nice Upgrade!!!
> 
> The CPU Northbridge is usually around 1.25v i think. I run mine around 1.35v Not sure why it would default to 1.4v That'll def heat things up.
> 
> Do you have advanced mode in the bios or is that it. To me that looks like the AI suite/EZ bios.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that shot is from the ai suite...
> But in bios, advanced, it defaults at 1.4.
> I can use the offset "-" function though.
Click to expand...

1 update bios, they have addressed that in new updates, to my knowledge, last time i used it they did for sure
2 you can set it to manual volts, but i like offset as it allows for cnq to work
you should be able to do 2600 cpu/nb @ 1.2~1.3 v


----------



## Stormscion

Have anyone tried method with APM and FSB overclock to use turbo core from the opening post?
It has some success for me BUT he keeps C6 turned off. If i turn off C6 it will never boost to the last state (2 cores max turbo) and if i turn on c6 my motherboard is buzzing like hell... i dont know is there way to force mast stage of turbo with that turned off since he apparently those. (all 8 core turbo is working with 233 fsb )


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormscion*
> 
> Have anyone tried method with APM and FSB overclock to use turbo core from the opening post?
> It has some success for me BUT he keeps C6 turned off. If i turn off C6 it will never boost to the last state (2 cores max turbo) and if i turn on c6 my motherboard is buzzing like hell... i dont know is there way to force mast stage of turbo with that turned off since he apparently those. (all 8 core turbo is working with 233 fsb )


have you tried installing AOD ?


----------



## Stormscion

AOD ? overdrive ? I have it installed
But it works without it. Have you tried overclocking like in the first post ?


----------



## Mega Man

and did you set it up to the turbo you want, ?

what power options are off


----------



## AmcieK

I change thermal paste and 10 C different . It's ok old thermal paste is hardened only in center of processor . Look in photo what i mean







In phenom it was hardened on all surface

http://i.imgur.com/p8cagzI.jpg

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=AF9EC1DE3F35BF4C!154&authkey=!AAeM0qe0uyOh4bo&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg

https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=AF9EC1DE3F35BF4C!153&authkey=!AAEjHQ1scuJ4igE&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmcieK*
> 
> I change thermal paste and 10 C different . It's ok old thermal paste is hardened only in center of processor . Look in photo what i mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In phenom it was hardened on all surface
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/p8cagzI.jpg
> 
> https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=AF9EC1DE3F35BF4C!154&authkey=!AAeM0qe0uyOh4bo&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg
> 
> https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resid=AF9EC1DE3F35BF4C!153&authkey=!AAEjHQ1scuJ4igE&v=3&ithint=photo%2c.jpg


How long was the cooler on there with that paste?
Looks like either your chip or you heatsink asks for a lap. Have you checked how flat the heatsink is already?


----------



## AmcieK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How long was the cooler on there with that paste?
> Looks like either your chip or you heatsink asks for a lap. Have you checked how flat the heatsink is already?


Its about 2 month

I took out the CPU cap looks fine, also the heatsink base . Tommorow i took out again and check as it look.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Hmmmm, I am getting some very weird errors & hardlocks.
I followed all the steps on the OP to the letter, got to 5GHz stable through the 10 min small FFT. Rebooted and saved the OC profile, retested again just to make sure - Summout errors on 2 cores within seconds.
Rebooted again and raised Vcore a notch - Summout 3 cores after 5 min. Rebooted - Raised Vcore - Hardlock.
Rebooted - Load OC Profile - Summout 2 Cores








Rebooted and dropped the clock to 4.9 - Hardlock on Desktop









Here is the "supposed" stable clock:




All the core errors are totally random cores and the 4.9 clock I dropped to was 20 run IBT Maximum/ 1hour Prime stable. Any adjustments I do create totally random errors and freezes







RAM has been tested through Memtest last night 6 passes no errors If anyone can see anything that's a bit skewiff feel free to berate me









Asus CHVF - Z
9590
16GB Corsair Dominator GT 1866
Custom Loop


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Hmmmm, I am getting some very weird errors & hardlocks.
> I followed all the steps on the OP to the letter, got to 5GHz stable through the 10 min small FFT.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Rebooted and saved the OC profile, retested again just to make sure - Summout errors on 2 cores within seconds.
> Rebooted again and raised Vcore a notch - Summout 3 cores after 5 min. Rebooted - Raised Vcore - Hardlock.
> Rebooted - Load OC Profile - Summout 2 Cores
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rebooted and dropped the clock to 4.9 - Hardlock on Desktop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the "supposed" stable clock:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All the core errors are totally random cores and the 4.9 clock I dropped to was 20 run IBT Maximum/ 1hour Prime stable. Any adjustments I do create totally random errors and freezes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> RAM has been tested through Memtest last night 6 passes no errors If anyone can see anything that's a bit skewiff feel free to berate me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Asus CHVF - Z
> 9590
> 16GB Corsair Dominator GT 1866
> Custom Loop


If you could get some screen shots of your Bios settings that could help us get a better idea of where to start helping you.

With my 8350 I would hit a Vcore stability issue when it was too high for the clock. The temps were fine but just too much volts and it was not stable at all. Might try lowering the vcore and raising the cpu nb or the vdda


----------



## p5ych00n5

Voila






Hmmmm, I noticed my CPU/NB LLC is set to Auto and my RAM is well underclocked


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Voila
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm, I noticed my CPU/NB LLC is set to Auto and my RAM is well underclocked


Well for the most part it looks good. I'd say make sure you keep the cpu nb freq at 2600. I noticted with my overclock that anything above or below gave me problems. Maybe go back to your 5.0 stable settings and set that to 2600

If you want you can get your ram up to speed. Remember to stick to one thing at a time. You may have to start from scratch only adjusting one thing at a time and while making sure your ram is 1866 and not 1333 also making sure that the cpu nb is close to 2600. Seems to work good for the Asus CHV with FX chips.

Right now I cant remember what my cpu nb llc was set to. I'll check later.


----------



## p5ych00n5

I ran some more tests comparing voltages, using frequency over multiplier and using multiplier over frequency.
@ 1.5215 even - freq over multi and multi over freq I was getting ILLEGAL SUMOUT on worker 8 in both instances.
@ 1.5125 + - freq over multi and multi over freq I was getting hardlocks. Now when I was getting the hardlocks in every instance my powerboard would emit an audible Click and the lamp in my room would flicker off for an instant, I have been getting quite a few lately. The more volts I'm pushing through the PC, the worse it is.

I can only conclude it's one of 2 things - I've a dud chip which barely clocks above stock, or the wiring in my house is dodgy (it's a very early 1900's I'd hazard a guess).
With the clicking powerboard and the flickering lamp I'm leaning more towards the wiring.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Voila
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmmm, I noticed my CPU/NB LLC is set to Auto and my RAM is well underclocked


1
your volts are way way to low, 5ghz @1.5v??? not going to happen in most cases

2
vrms are set to standard rather then extreme


----------



## Stormscion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and did you set it up to the turbo you want, ?
> 
> what power options are off


if c6 is turned off it wont go


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stormscion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and did you set it up to the turbo you want, ?
> 
> what power options are off
> 
> 
> 
> if c6 is turned off it wont go
Click to expand...

well there you go so then it is fixed right??? since you dont need help i mean any time people ask... you inform them instead of just answering their questions.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

When i did my 5.4ghz run I needed a mix of multiplier and freq. Might try that and the other suggestions above . My 8350 is a golden cchip and and does 5.0 @ 1.51v and 5.4ghz @ 1.54v it's all about experimenting to your hearts desire. Sometimes it worth just settling in at a decent clock.


----------



## Th_Remedy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Alright, I will contact you if needed.
> 
> If everything works well the board will be delivered today.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Am I right to be hyped about this board compared to my 990fxa-ud3?
> Don't hope to get disappointed.
> The voltage regulation is really bad on the ud3. Lack of LLC. Kinda bad vrm cooling. Broken NB temp sensor...
> Weird slow downs and blue screens from time to time....


I can speak to the 970a-ud3 (hopefully that is worth something lol) as I replaced one but yeah, any decent modern board should be almost night and day compared to the MSI 970a ud3 (I know yours is a 990, but yeah, hope you have the same experience) I noticed temp leaps and bounds in the right direction, stability presents of holiday cheer, and spontaneous overclocking success instead of the very finicky and seemingly oven like comparison that was my 970a-UD3.

PS. I do have to give it to my 970a-UD3 as much as I just sort of bagged on it. It was a F ing trooper. A often unstable trooper but yeah. It survived my case and CPU backplate doing the metal to metal dance come to find out for some time (I'm not dumb I swear haha my case spacers i think over time were screwed in too tight and yeah bridged the gap between case mount and Tuniq120mm extreme tower backplate) not to mention many screw driver slips and stabs, and I'm pretty sure it even survived random sprinkles of liquid over the 3 years I had it. SO it wasn't great but a trooper.. sorry im stoned haha ill shut up now.,


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> When i did my 5.4ghz run I needed a mix of multiplier and freq. Might try that and the other suggestions above . My 8350 is a golden cchip and and does 5.0 @ 1.51v and 5.4ghz @ 1.54v it's all about experimenting to your hearts desire. Sometimes it worth just settling in at a decent clock.


can i see a 12 hour prime @ 90 % memory usage and 100% of cpu usage


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1
> your volts are way way to low, 5ghz @1.5v??? not going to happen in most cases
> 
> 2
> vrms are set to standard rather then extreme


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> When i did my 5.4ghz run I needed a mix of multiplier and freq. Might try that and the other suggestions above . My 8350 is a golden cchip and and does 5.0 @ 1.51v and 5.4ghz @ 1.54v it's all about experimenting to your hearts desire. Sometimes it worth just settling in at a decent clock.


Thanks for all your help guys, but I've just hit the wall I think, maybe it is just a dud chip/module which is holding me back as all silicon is not created equally. Time to start from scratch again, I've cleared Cmos and reflashed the BIOS now back to the black art of OC'ing


----------



## Stormscion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stormscion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> and did you set it up to the turbo you want, ?
> 
> what power options are off
> 
> 
> 
> if c6 is turned off it wont go
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> well there you go so then it is fixed right??? since you dont need help i mean any time people ask... you inform them instead of just answering their questions.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I am just saying that unless I am overlooking something, opening post is not accurate


----------



## Mega Man

you are

1 most ppl do not use turbo when they oc

EDIT
my bad... i was getting you and the "golden chip" user confused, sorry i just had 2 teeth extracted and been high on Vicodin ....
to the other user

2 most people when they claim a stable oc will post proof instead of side stepping, as for me i call 100% shenanigans on your "golden chip" i can boot at a lot lower levels, that does not mean it is stable nor golden chip, feel free to prove me wrong, and post a screen of a reputable ( IBTAVX OR prime ) stability test

as all the rigs you have listed would not even be possible to hit 5ghz even with a golden chip with that cooling


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> When i did my 5.4ghz run I needed a mix of multiplier and freq. Might try that and the other suggestions above . My 8350 is a golden cchip and and does 5.0 @ 1.51v and 5.4ghz @ 1.54v it's all about experimenting to your hearts desire. Sometimes it worth just settling in at a decent clock.


Right off the bat i can tell you your 5GHz is not stable just by looking at that 3DMark11 run in your sig if its yours. Your physics score is way to low to suppose to be 5GHz. making your score barely beat my single 290

http://www.3dmark.com/compare/3dm11/7418734/3dm11/7626071


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Right off the bat i can tell you your 5GHz is not stable just by looking at that 3DMark11 run in your sig if its yours. Your physics score is way to low to suppose to be 5GHz. making your score barely beat my single 290
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/compare/3dm11/7418734/3dm11/7626071


http://community.futuremark.com/forum/showthread.php?169906-Lower-windows-8-performance

I use my comp to play games and to cruise craigslist.so take your thumb politely shove it. lol but no really all the hate...


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> http://community.futuremark.com/forum/showthread.php?169906-Lower-windows-8-performance
> 
> I use my comp to play games and to cruise craigslist.so take your thumb politely shove it. lol but no really all the hate...


That's a very rude remark but just an FYI. I'm on Windows 8.1 Pro x64 now and i didn't get a performance decrease. All i was doing is stating the obvious


----------



## alanQtrmaine

I'm sorry its just my humor. Thought you'd get a laugh. oh well. I use windows 8.0 64. No matter what clock from 4.8ghz and up it hovers at that some score....

I run intel burn on high and then run prime to 3hrs for my stability. Sorry if that's not in spec with others on this forum. If I lived somewhere further from the equator I may just run it longer.

Have a happy holidays.









Nice score by the way!


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> I'm sorry its just my humor. Thought you'd get a laugh. oh well. I use windows 8.0 64. No matter what clock from 4.8ghz and up it hovers at that some score....
> 
> I run intel burn on high and then run prime to 3hrs for my stability. Sorry if that's not in spec with others on this forum. If I lived somewhere further from the equator I may just run it longer.
> 
> Have a happy holidays.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Nice score by the way!


Screen shots please


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Since I'm not currently at home use the search. I have some post with screen shots. Again why all the hate. You seem a bit childish joining in on something with out helping the person who asked a question and attacking the person offering advise.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Since I'm not currently at home use the search. I have some post with screen shots. Again why all the hate. You seem a bit childish joining in on something with out helping the person who asked a question and attacking the person offering advise.


You sure do talk a lot of B.S. 4.8 stable at the very least will net you 8500 in physics score.. 5.1 nets me closer to 10k...

something smells funny.. kinda like well you know

Yours: http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1723283/a/1052198/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/sort/display_order/

Mine http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1201649

How is it that my score outright puts yours to shame?

Oh yeah.. you are not stable. Pfft now shove it


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Since I'm not currently at home use the search. I have some post with screen shots. Again why all the hate. You seem a bit childish joining in on something with out helping the person who asked a question and attacking the person offering advise.


simple, we have to deal with the results that you dont, when people come in say i got the cheapest mobo ( am3+) and cheapest cooler ( 212 or simalar, or h100 ) and i am going to get 5ghz stable. then we have to tell them why they wont get it, so yea it is one of those things we come in and put to rest by when people claim to have "golden chip" we ask for proof, which funny enough they never have

they think they will get it due to people like you who claim stability and "golden chip"

on a side note i would be willing to get you run the basic version of IBT and not IBTAVX, IBT is too weak and i could pass on the most unstable of systems


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> simple, we have to deal with the results that you dont, when people come in say i got the cheapest mobo ( am3+) and cheapest cooler ( 212 or simalar, or h100 ) and i am going to get 5ghz stable. then we have to tell them why they wont get it, so yea it is one of those things we come in and put to rest by when people claim to have "golden chip" we ask for proof, which funny enough they never have
> 
> they think they will get it due to people like you who claim stability and "golden chip"
> 
> on a side note i would be willing to get you run the basic version of IBT and not IBTAVX, IBT is too weak and i could pass on the most unstable of systems


This
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You sure do talk a lot of B.S. 4.8 stable at the very least will net you 8500 in physics score.. 5.1 nets me closer to 10k...
> 
> something smells funny.. kinda like well you know
> 
> Yours: http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1723283/a/1052198/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/sort/display_order/
> 
> Mine http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1201649
> 
> How is it that my score outright puts yours to shame?
> 
> Oh yeah.. you are not stable. Pfft now shove it


You know your comparing firestrike to 3DMark 11 right. But your are correct his is low for even then 4.8GHz.

This is a run i did at 4.4GHz and your Physics score is barely any higher

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6201455


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> This
> You know your comparing firestrike to 3DMark 11 right. But your are correct his is low for even then 4.8GHz.
> 
> This is a run i did at 4.4GHz and your Physics score is barely any higher
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/3dm11/6201455


Woops but yeah on 11 I get around 9k ish at 5.0


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Mega Man your right, i didn't look at his cooling system. I just went off from him saying he had passed prior. And to the others scrutinizing my 3d mark score,that's a poor basis especially since you comparing win 8 to win 7 scores. Only one person showed their win 8.1 score that's a valid point. When i get home I'll look for some screen shots of my test. Other than that, the flame brigade may continue


----------



## Mega Man

and again, this is 100% not an attack on you, if it is stable enough for you, that is great.

stability is subjective.

with that said, when people come in and say i have 5ghz stable, we want proof, so that people know what form of stability is, through out most of this web site stable is prime or ibtavx


----------



## p5ych00n5

Does anyone have any links to IBTAVX seems every link I've followed is broken









Never mind, found a link in another thread. Happy Clocking yall









_EDIT_ Did a quick comparison run between IBT & IBTAVX:

IBT


IBTAVX


----------



## alanQtrmaine

5.0 ghz 1.500v standard ITB


5.0ghz 1.500v high ITB


1hr prime 5.0ghz 1.512v


5.0ghz Cinebench for those who say my pc mark score sucks.


5.2ghz (weak attempt to test cooler temps to stability @ 1.500v not stable for multiple runs.)


Just for ****s. My 5.4ghz cinebench score. Not quite cold enough In florida to do a stability test at those voltages and clocks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> 5.0 ghz 1.500v standard ITB
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5.0ghz 1.500v high ITB
> 
> 
> 1hr prime 5.0ghz 1.512v
> 
> 
> 5.0ghz Cinebench for those who say my pc mark score sucks.
> 
> 
> 5.2ghz (weak attempt to test cooler temps to stability @ 1.500v not stable for multiple runs.)
> 
> 
> Just for ****s. My 5.4ghz cinebench score. Not quite cold enough In florida to do a stability test at those voltages and clocks.


you are not using ibtavx, which regular ibt is very easy to pass and will not show instability, add to that you are NOT using most of your memory, and yea, you will not fail.

to find ibtavx please see the OP of the 83xx thread in my sig

in prime screens it does not show how much memory you are using either, nor does 1 hour mean anything








although some of these are from my 2011 and some from my am3+ this will give you an idea.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you are not using ibtavx, which regular ibt is very easy to pass and will not show instability, add to that you are NOT using most of your memory, and yea, you will not fail.
> 
> to find ibtavx please see the OP of the 83xx thread in my sig
> 
> in prime screens it does not show how much memory you are using either, nor does 1 hour mean anything
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although some of these are from my 2011 and some from my am3+ this will give you an idea.


All this time IBT was passing with flying colours, until IBTAVX









IBT High 10 passes


IBTAVX High 10 passes


I was getting frustrated as to why I was getting 20 run Maximum passes on IBT then the clock failing every other Stability test









1 bump in Vcore - Pass. Now onto Prime testing


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Good work Ph5ch00n5,

For those patiently waiting here is my 5.0ghz 1.500 ITBAVX Maximum setting test


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> All this time IBT was passing with flying colours, until IBTAVX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IBT High 10 passes
> 
> 
> IBTAVX High 10 passes
> 
> 
> I was getting frustrated as to why I was getting 20 run Maximum passes on IBT then the clock failing every other Stability test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 bump in Vcore - Pass. Now onto Prime testing


Try Maximum stress level as it seems high is much easier


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Good work Ph5ch00n5,
> 
> For those patiently waiting here is my 5.0ghz 1.500 ITBAVX Maximum setting test


thanks i appreciate it, you have an amazing chip !
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durvelle27*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> All this time IBT was passing with flying colours, until IBTAVX
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IBT High 10 passes
> 
> 
> IBTAVX High 10 passes
> 
> 
> I was getting frustrated as to why I was getting 20 run Maximum passes on IBT then the clock failing every other Stability test
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1 bump in Vcore - Pass. Now onto Prime testing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try Maximum stress level as it seems high is much easier
Click to expand...

that is why i always use custom and do 80-90% memory usage

on a side note you know that the negatives are not stable right ?


----------



## Durvelle27

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thanks i appreciate it, you have an amazing chip !
> that is why i always use custom and do 80-90% memory usage
> 
> on a side note you know that the negatives are not stable right ?


Yes that's why I posted that pic with that comment. To show High is much easier.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You sure do talk a lot of B.S. 4.8 stable at the very least will net you 8500 in physics score.. 5.1 nets me closer to 10k...
> 
> something smells funny.. kinda like well you know
> 
> Yours: http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1723283/a/1052198/official-nvidia-gtx-670-owners-club/sort/display_order/
> 
> Mine http://www.3dmark.com/fs/1201649
> 
> How is it that my score outright puts yours to shame?
> 
> Oh yeah.. you are not stable. Pfft now shove it


Here you go, I went ahead and bought 3d Mark on Steam which is on sale for under $3.00 right now









And here are our comparing results. I even went to my 5.2 trial bios profile.

http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/1376706/fs/1201649

here is one at 5.1ghz for some apples to apples win 8 loses by 0.1 fps 5.1 firestrike


----------



## miklkit

On the subject of IBT, this one can pass it when it gets enough volts. What is the opposite of golden? Golden shower?

Anyway, it can pass but it does not pass the freeze test as it is constantly locking up. I've already bumped the cpu-nb and NB to 1.3v which helps some, but something more is needed. Does anyone have any ideas on what else to pump up?



Anf yes, -1 is not stable. I ran like that for some time before being told about it, and +3 makes a difference.


----------



## Pipson10

Il be getting an h100 tuesday an already have 8350 + m5a99x, whats the highest clock i should expect?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> thanks i appreciate it, you have an amazing chip !
> that is why i always use custom and do 80-90% memory usage
> 
> on a side note you know that the negatives are not stable right ?


Do you use 80 - 90% of total memory or available memory as shown by IBT, I've been trying 85% of total system memory, which is a touch below what Maximum is showing on IBT.
I never knew about the negatives signalling un-stableness, there you go you learn something new everyday, saves waiting on a 10 run IBT only for it to crash on the 10th run


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Il be getting an h100 tuesday an already have 8350 + m5a99x, whats the highest clock i should expect?


*MMV*, my 9590 is yet to get 100% stable on 4.9 it's close but all the hooplah around "binning" pointed towards a stable 5GHz. BUT all silicon is not created equal, a chip is only as strong as it's weakest link, if one core/module can only clock to 4.5 there's your max OC, there's also a lot of variables like RAM, PSU, Cooling, Motherboard etc etc.
Ballpark figure I'd safely say 4.5 - 4.7, but that one word again, MMV


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Here you go, I went ahead and bought 3d Mark on Steam which is on sale for under $3.00 right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And here are our comparing results. I even went to my 5.2 trial bios profile.
> 
> http://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/1376706/fs/1201649
> 
> here is one at 5.1ghz for some apples to apples win 8 loses by 0.1 fps 5.1 firestrike


Great! I like when I get proved wrong


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Il be getting an h100 tuesday an already have 8350 + m5a99x, whats the highest clock i should expect?


Your not really going to know what overclock you can get with the H100 until you see what your temps are while going thru the first post guide. H100 are decent coolers but your ambient will def dictate how well it will work.

Some people say 4.8ghz is max with h100 some say less. One of the fun parts of overclocking is going thru the steps and using the results to kinda make a guess of where you'll end up. Then using that as a small carrot dangling out in front to drive you thru the long process of clocking and stability testings each round.

Good luck and ask lots of questions and search the treads. Lots of great info here on oc.net


----------



## Chopper1591

Don't want to double post. But would you guys give me your thoughts on this?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/27790#post_21446533


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Don't want to double post. But would you guys give me your thoughts on this?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/27790#post_21446533


Here's my









Myself I shoot for a slightly higher value under the "Results" meaning maybe just one bump of Vcore. Your very close.
Another thing I've found on my CHV-Z is a slight increase of CPU VDDA (guessing you run auto from what I can see) might tighten up the GFlops variance you see in that run. Along with this it also allowed me to lower Vcore one bump too and maintain the slightly higher "Results" value. Every little bit helps.

With 8GB of Ram I'd seriously try a 20 pass run after a little tinkering mentioned above (if you choose to go that way). The 36 minute run (posted above) even on IBT AVX Maximum isn't all that much preparation for Prime95. I'd much rather find early weakness using IBT AVX as it's so much faster than P95.

While this post does contain all the useful utilities it's a shame HWInfo64 wasn't better displayed showing more info with less clutter.
Over all, good job!


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Prime95 has been running for 10 minutes or so. Currently, Core II has failed. and my temps are steady. I haven't touched the core clocks since getting 4.6GHz stable, but I have set HT to automatically run at 2600MHz and have overclocked the northbridge to 2400MHz @ 1.2125v. Does anybody have experience with overclocking the northbidge? I don't think I'm unstable with it; nothing seems out of the ordinary.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Prime95 has been running for 10 minutes or so. Currently, Core II has failed. and my temps are steady. I haven't touched the core clocks since getting 4.6GHz stable, but I have set HT to automatically run at 2600MHz and have overclocked the northbridge to 2400MHz @ 1.2125v. Does anybody have experience with overclocking the northbidge? I don't think I'm unstable with it; nothing seems out of the ordinary.


Make sure to manually enter all dram specs in bios (Freq, Timing and voltage) if it isn't already.
You may find a slight increase to Dram voltage might help. Usually .05 to .1v is enough.
When you get a "Worker Has Failed" in P95 it's usually CPU/NB voltage or Dram voltage. Sometimes a combination of the two.

You haven't mentioned if your running CPU/NB LLC.
It may help if you could post CPUZ showing CPU and Memory tabs open and HWInfo64 showing voltages and temps when making a post. It'll give everyone a better idea of where your at.

You do know that when a core fails there is no sense continuing that test right? Just making sure.


----------



## amd-pcmarlow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Il be getting an h100 tuesday an already have 8350 + m5a99x, whats the highest clock i should expect?


First of all your overclock will differ from others, each chip clocks differently, secondly the h100 is more expensive than a thermalright sb-e extreme and if you have room in your case and arent bothered about the noise id suggest swaying away from a aio water cooler as the sb-e extreme allows me to hit 4.6Ghz on my 8320 and be under thermal limits, i tried for 4.7 and hit 63 core almost immediately, i could fit the 3rd ty-143 fan directly to the cooler but im not sure it would make much difference


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Il be getting an h100 tuesday an already have 8350 + m5a99x, whats the highest clock i should expect?
> 
> 
> 
> Your not really going to know what overclock you can get with the H100 until you see what your temps are while going thru the first post guide. H100 are decent coolers but your ambient will def dictate how well it will work.
> 
> Some people say 4.8ghz is max with h100 some say less. One of the fun parts of overclocking is going thru the steps and using the results to kinda make a guess of where you'll end up. Then using that as a small carrot dangling out in front to drive you thru the long process of clocking and stability testings each round.
> 
> Good luck and ask lots of questions and search the treads. Lots of great info here on oc.net
Click to expand...

with that mobo and assuming you have a decent chip you will be lucky with 4.8 with no throttling, with previous users experience probably 4.5~4.7 is likely
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> While this post does contain all the useful utilities it's a shame HWInfo64 wasn't better displayed showing more info with less clutter.
> Over all, good job!


huh ? you can customize hwinfos layout to show what ever you want in what ever order you want, you can even tell them not to monitor each individual setting
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Prime95 has been running for 10 minutes or so. Currently, Core II has failed. and my temps are steady. I haven't touched the core clocks since getting 4.6GHz stable, but I have set HT to automatically run at 2600MHz and have overclocked the northbridge to 2400MHz @ 1.2125v. Does anybody have experience with overclocking the northbidge? I don't think I'm unstable with it; nothing seems out of the ordinary.


did you bump the cpu/nb volts? or just the northbridge ?

you need to bump both fyi ( generally ) but the freq you are talking about is the cpu/nb


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

CPU: 4.6GHz (23x200MHz) @ 1.4375v
NB: 2400MHz (12x200MHz) @ 1.2125v

Does northbridge instability cause CPU instability? I'm probably going to bump up the CPU voltage a bit to 1.45v and, if needed, the northbridge to 1.225v.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> CPU: 4.6GHz (23x200MHz) @ 1.4375v
> NB: 2400MHz (12x200MHz) @ 1.2125v
> 
> Does northbridge instability cause CPU instability? I'm probably going to bump up the CPU voltage a bit to 1.45v and, if needed, the northbridge to 1.225v.


the speed you are refering to is not your northbridge speed, it is your cpu/nb, which is your memory controller. so yes it can, ht is the thing that talks to the actual northbridge


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh ? you can customize hwinfos layout to show what ever you want in what ever order you want, you can even tell them not to monitor each individual setting


Lol. Exactly what I meant when I said not HWInfo64 wasn't better displayed.
I was referring to a lack of customization. I took it for granted everyone knew about this. It only takes a few minutes to hide the unwanted values than rename the rest and so on.
Funny how so many post showing only things like 8x core usage or 8 cores worth of VID lol.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> huh ? you can customize hwinfos layout to show what ever you want in what ever order you want, you can even tell them not to monitor each individual setting
> 
> 
> 
> Lol. Exactly what I meant when I said not HWInfo64 wasn't better displayed.
> I was referring to a lack of customization. I took it for granted everyone knew about this. It only takes a few minutes to hide the unwanted values than rename the rest and so on.
> Funny how so many post showing only things like 8x core usage or 8 cores worth of VID lol.
Click to expand...

every time i custom mine... i forget not to copy the config file from the new version lol


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> every time i custom mine... i forget not to copy the config file from the new version lol


I hear ya there buddy. I'm sooo glad I've never done that before








Especially when I start to think just how much time I do spend arraigning/moving things around.

Hows that loop for the CHV-Z doing lately? Any progress?
I'm just finishing up an order to help feed the addiction and to tidy up my loop.
Wanting to ditch the bay res and see what a tube looks like for a change of pace.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Il be getting an h100 tuesday an already have 8350 + m5a99x, whats the highest clock i should expect?


My daily clock on my 8350 + 990FX Sabertooth is 4.8Ghz (24x multiplier @ 1.48V, 2600Mhz) with my h100i. I can run 5.0Ghz but it reaches 62*C during IBT which I'm not comfortable with

http://valid.canardpc.com/4eugy4 (@4.8Ghz)

I just lapped my 8350 - breaking in the TIM (Gelid GC-extreme) right now and will report back


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> every time i custom mine... i forget not to copy the config file from the new version lol
> 
> 
> 
> I hear ya there buddy. I'm sooo glad I've never done that before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially when I start to think just how much time I do spend arraigning/moving things around.
> 
> Hows that loop for the CHV-Z doing lately? Any progress?
> I'm just finishing up an order to help feed the addiction and to tidy up my loop.
> Wanting to ditch the bay res and see what a tube looks like for a change of pace.
Click to expand...

good i just got another apogee hd and pump for it, now i need more rads ~! for now it i s using a h220


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> My daily clock on my 8350 + 990FX Sabertooth is 4.8Ghz (24x multiplier @ 1.48V, 2600Mhz) with my h100i. I can run 5.0Ghz but it reaches 62*C during IBT which I'm not comfortable with
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/4eugy4 (@4.8Ghz)
> 
> I just lapped my 8350 - breaking in the TIM (Gelid GC-extreme) right now and will report back


Reporting back! The following are @ 4.8Ghz

Temps before lapping my FX:

Pre-lap max package temp was 59*C

Temps after lapping my FX (and switching to Gelid GC-Extreme from the stock h100i TIM)

Post-lap max package temp was 47*C

Going to try 5.2Ghz now


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Reporting back! The following are @ 4.8Ghz
> 
> Temps before lapping my FX:
> 
> 
> Temps after lapping my FX (and switching to Gelid GC-Extreme from the stock h100i TIM)
> 
> 
> Going to try 5.2Ghz now


Word of the wise, you are using regular IBT you need to use IBT avx for these chips there is a huge difference in stability


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Word of the wise, you are using regular IBT you need to use IBT avx for these chips there is a huge difference in stability


Difference in heat output as well.
Archea47: You should also work your way up to running the Maximum setting rather than Standard.
If it can pass 20 runs on Maximum setting than you're ready for 12 to 24 hrs of Prime95 Blend.

You can also expect a huge voltage wall right around 4.8GHz. Just wait till you see what that does to your temps!









Here's a link to IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
Keep a close eye on those temps, the H100i usually won't support much above 4.8GHz (if that) depending on ambient room temp unless a lot of noise (and after market fans) is not an issue.
I'm in no way saying anything negative about H100i, only sharing facts shared by other members here.

Good luck!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Difference in heat output as well.
> Archea47: You should also work your way up to running the Maximum setting rather than Standard.
> If it can pass 20 runs on Maximum setting than you're ready for 12 to 24 hrs of Prime95 Blend.
> 
> You can also expect a huge voltage wall right around 4.8GHz. Just wait till you see what that does to your temps!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link to IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> Keep a close eye on those temps, the H100i usually won't support much above 4.8GHz (if that) depending on ambient room temp unless a lot of noise (and after market fans) is not an issue.
> I'm in no way saying anything negative about H100i, only sharing facts shared by other members here.
> 
> Good luck!


Thanks for the tips guys! Haha I couldn't find IBT w/ AVX anywhere so F3ERS 2 ASH3S was nice enough to PM me a copy

Interestingly IBT w/ AVX runs a few *C cooler for me (and I like the tons more Gflops it reports







). I'll give max a shot. I've also been using Prime95, but IBT is short and sweet

I've run 5 Ghz (1.54V) for a while before but I didn't like that it was getting into the mid-50s while loading maps in BF4 so that's why I went down to 4.8Ghz

Doesn't bother me if we recognize the shortcomings of the h100i - it was just what I could find locally and fit in my case


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Lol. Exactly what I meant when I said not HWInfo64 wasn't better displayed.
> I was referring to a lack of customization. I took it for granted everyone knew about this. It only takes a few minutes to hide the unwanted values than rename the rest and so on.
> Funny how so many post showing only things like 8x core usage or 8 cores worth of VID lol.


Yeah sorry I'm a bit lazy, busy weeks lately.
Haven't took the time to customize the layout after the fresh OS install half a week ago.

IMO the ability to customize the layout is a big pro compared to hwmonitor.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Archea47: You should also work your way up to running the Maximum setting rather than Standard.
> If it can pass 20 runs on Maximum setting than you're ready for 12 to 24 hrs of Prime95 Blend.
> 
> You can also expect a huge voltage wall right around 4.8GHz. Just wait till you see what that does to your temps!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's a link to IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> Keep a close eye on those temps, the H100i usually won't support much above 4.8GHz (if that) depending on ambient room temp unless a lot of noise (and after market fans) is not an issue.


Here's on IBT AVX @ max



Looking good - back to 5Ghz. I hear ya on running Prime for 12 hours but I'm just looking to game at the moment

I run the h100i fans on "Performance" mode (~2000-2200RPM) all day. I started building computers in the mid 90s (386->486 conversion chip veteran







) and take a loud computer as a point of pride a bit I must admit. Plus I work in datacenters so I'm used to a lot more noise than a h100i


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Here's on IBT AVX @ max
> 
> 
> 
> Looking good - back to 5Ghz. I hear ya on running Prime for 12 hours but I'm just looking to game at the moment
> 
> I run the h100i fans on "Performance" mode (~2000-2200RPM) all day. I started building computers in the mid 90s (386->486 conversion chip veteran
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and take a loud computer as a point of pride a bit I must admit. Plus I work in datacenters so I'm used to a lot more noise than a h100i


It's up to you how long you want a stability test to run. But do at least 20 runs of IBT avx on max before you call it somewhat stable.
But if the temps stay around as they are in that picture: push on


----------



## Pipson10

I have started overclocking based on the guide in the 1st page. What i would like to know is the following: What are the best CPU stress testing and stability software for fx 8350 and whch settings should i use? followed by the best software to monitor temps and benchamrks

So far i use prime95, intelburn test (which is the best settings?) and AIDA64(again which is the best settings. Also i have found out at times when testing that in prime95 when one core would fail usually mean unstable however in AIDA64 it never fails, so which is more reliable?

As far as temps goes i use HWmonitor and coretemp, for some reason speedfan freezes my computer every once in a while (anyone got a hotfix for this, may be related to windows 8.1)

benchmarks so far i only know cinebench


----------



## Mega Man

welcome, feel free to pop in the 83xx thread in my sig too

prime and ibt axv, for ibtavx see the opening post of the 83xx club in my sig

use hwinfo64 or hwinfo32 ( if you use 32 bit ) dont use core temp as that may be a cause of the freezes, unless it has been updated, been causing random bsod for a long time

also will help us to help you to use rigbuilder ( top right of this page ) and put it in your sig, ( click your name scroll down till you see your sig edit and follow the instructions )


----------



## Pipson10

What about AIDA64?


----------



## Mega Man

it is good as well


----------



## Pipson10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is good as well


Check sig.

Im testing 4.6 and so far no core failed on AIDA64 and AMD overdrive statebility test after 20mins. On Prime95 and Intelburntest i get failed cores, so who do i trust?


----------



## Mega Man

both, but tbh i only use ibtavx and prime

just because one test does not find the fault and another does... does not mean either is wrong, but rather both are right, one found it and that is what is important @


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Check sig.
> 
> Im testing 4.6 and so far no core failed on AIDA64 and AMD overdrive statebility test after 20mins. On Prime95 and Intelburntest i get failed cores, so who do i trust?


Up the voltage a bit and start with ibt avx on max as that takes less time then blending with prime.


----------



## Pipson10

My stock voltage will only do 4.5. The highest clock ive done so far is 5.0ghz ~ stable with Aida64 - temps could go up as 62-64 and sometimes it also drops to 55-57 on full load, on idle i get from 12-25 depends if heaters are on or not.

Cinebench score i get 8.50


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> My stock voltage will only do 4.5. The highest clock ive done so far is 5.0ghz ~ stable with Aida64 - temps could go up as 62-64 and sometimes it also drops to 55-57 on full load, on idle i get from 12-25 depends if heaters are on or not.
> 
> Cinebench score i get 8.50


I don't believe you are stable on 4.5 with stock voltage.

You best avoid aida and just stress with ibt avx and prime. Preferably prime, but ibt to quickly test the small changes.
Also I doubt you will get 5ghz stable with the h100. Mine is having a hard time with 4.8.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> My stock voltage will only do 4.5. The highest clock ive done so far is 5.0ghz ~ stable with Aida64 - temps could go up as 62-64 and sometimes it also drops to 55-57 on full load, on idle i get from 12-25 depends if heaters are on or not.
> 
> Cinebench score i get 8.50


What's your stock voltage?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Also I doubt you will get 5ghz stable with the h100. Mine is having a hard time with 4.8.


FWIW my 8350, which i don't think is golden from seeing others with lower 5Ghz voltage, does pass IBT AVX @ max with 20 passes at 4.8 (just multi,, Vcore set to 1.48 with times at 1.5) with an absolute max core temp of 52 (admittedly after lapping) with the h100i. So it's not out of the realm of possibility to get above 4.8 (I'm running 4.92 daily now, but it's 61*C @ 10 passes on max).

Like Jason387 said I'd be curious to know what Pipson's "stock voltage" is and what it's spiking to.

What are everyone's opinions on the 64 degree core temp? Literature of course is 62-62.5 thermal limit. I suppose the chips are affordable enough to gamble with compared to intel


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> FWIW my 8350, which i don't think is golden from seeing others with lower 5Ghz voltage, does pass IBT AVX @ max with 20 passes at 4.8 (just multi,, Vcore set to 1.48 with times at 1.5) with an absolute max core temp of 52 (admittedly after lapping) with the h100i. So it's not out of the realm of possibility to get above 4.8 (I'm running 4.92 daily now, but it's 61*C @ 10 passes on max).
> 
> Like Jason387 said I'd be curious to know what Pipson's "stock voltage" is and what it's spiking to.
> 
> What are everyone's opinions on the 64 degree core temp? Literature of course is 62-62.5 thermal limit. I suppose the chips are affordable enough to gamble with compared to intel


The max temp is advised by amd.
Sure you can go over it. It will just decrease the lifespan of the cpu. And you have a chance of throttling.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> FWIW my 8350, which i don't think is golden from seeing others with lower 5Ghz voltage, does pass IBT AVX @ max with 20 passes at 4.8 (just multi,, Vcore set to 1.48 with times at 1.5) with an absolute max core temp of 52 (admittedly after lapping) with the h100i. So it's not out of the realm of possibility to get above 4.8 (I'm running 4.92 daily now, but it's 61*C @ 10 passes on max).
> 
> Like Jason387 said I'd be curious to know what Pipson's "stock voltage" is and what it's spiking to.
> 
> What are everyone's opinions on the 64 degree core temp? Literature of course is 62-62.5 thermal limit. I suppose the chips are affordable enough to gamble with compared to intel


I found that while benching I don't mind max temps being reached. But while playing BF4 and everthing on the board is being maxed out the Core temps sky rockets and I wasn't noticing it right away.

Make sure if your skating close to the limits to monitor your temps while using games or demanding applications to be sure your not getting a degree or two more. During cooler days I'll run my higher clocks and hotter days I will boot into my 4.8 bios profile.

Remember its what you feel comfortable with. To some, hey what's another mobo and cpu, meh just a chance to upgrade lol. While to others its a lot of money/work to redo it all.

Me personally I like to keep my max core temps in the mid to high 50's for day to day grind.

In the end of it all make sure to have fun and it does what your want it to do well.


----------



## jason387

Will increasing ht link help to increase stability???


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Will increasing ht link help to increase stability???


No.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Will increasing ht link help to increase stability???
> 
> 
> 
> No.
Click to expand...

no and most users would never need to


----------



## p5ych00n5

As usual,I have received the crappiest chip known to man. It's a 9590 which barely gets stable @ 4,8.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> As usual,I have received the crappiest chip known to man. It's a 9590 which barely gets stable @ 4,8.


Sorry to hear.
I did laugh a bit when I say your comment.

IMO it is also a bit waste of money compared to a 8350.


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> As usual,I have received the crappiest chip known to man. It's a 9590 which barely gets stable @ 4,8.


Sorry to hear that.

I noticed in the past pics that you posted your NB freq is at 2600 and your max NB voltage was 1.11v also your Cpu/Nb was at 1.310 you can try upping either of the two.

Also when you run Prime what faults are you getting. I'm not 100% sure but I know some here can interpret those faults down to what your next step should be. That is unless your temp limited.


----------



## Pipson10

Ive gone back to basics and i got a bit of available time and wanna make sure my system is proper clocked as the first time i did, it seemed it was and then the next day i was having a few blue screen.

Before we talk about overclocking, i thought id mention the important parts of the PC.

I have a bitfenix ronin (love the case) set up with an H100 and 2 Corsair SP120. I also have 4 Corsair AF120.

My idle temps are 6-12C - So i would like to think my case is nicely cooled.

Here is the standard set up before i mess about with CPU Ratio and CPU voltage

Advanced CPU Configuration:


AI tweaker part1:


AI tweaker part 2:

My ram is the following: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-042-AR&groupid=701&catid=8 - I am uncertain which voltage to use?
Also do i need to change CPU/NB Manual Voltage?



DIGI+


I have not set up DRAM Timing Control:



Again ive linked my ram above, advice on this would be appreciated

Also if anything else needs changing and etc please do tell.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Ive gone back to basics and i got a bit of available time and wanna make sure my system is proper clocked as the first time i did, it seemed it was and then the next day i was having a few blue screen.
> 
> Before we talk about overclocking, i thought id mention the important parts of the PC.
> 
> I have a bitfenix ronin (love the case) set up with an H100 and 2 Corsair SP120. I also have 4 Corsair AF120.
> 
> My idle temps are 6-12C - So i would like to think my case is nicely cooled.
> 
> Here is the standard set up before i mess about with CPU Ratio and CPU voltage
> 
> Advanced CPU Configuration:
> 
> 
> AI tweaker part1:
> 
> 
> AI tweaker part 2:
> 
> My ram is the following: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-042-AR&groupid=701&catid=8 - I am uncertain which voltage to use?
> Also do i need to change CPU/NB Manual Voltage?
> 
> 
> 
> DIGI+
> 
> 
> I have not set up DRAM Timing Control:
> 
> 
> 
> Again ive linked my ram above, advice on this would be appreciated
> 
> Also if anything else needs changing and etc please do tell.


i dont have time atm but remind me and ill look over, do not trust idle temps ever. they are wrong, loaded temps are not


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Ive gone back to basics and i got a bit of available time and wanna make sure my system is proper clocked as the first time i did, it seemed it was and then the next day i was having a few blue screen.
> 
> Before we talk about overclocking, i thought id mention the important parts of the PC.
> 
> I have a bitfenix ronin (love the case) set up with an H100 and 2 Corsair SP120. I also have 4 Corsair AF120.
> 
> My idle temps are 6-12C - So i would like to think my case is nicely cooled.
> 
> Here is the standard set up before i mess about with CPU Ratio and CPU voltage
> 
> Advanced CPU Configuration:
> 
> 
> AI tweaker part1:
> 
> 
> AI tweaker part 2:
> 
> My ram is the following: http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-042-AR&groupid=701&catid=8 - I am uncertain which voltage to use?
> Also do i need to change CPU/NB Manual Voltage?
> 
> 
> 
> DIGI+
> 
> 
> I have not set up DRAM Timing Control:
> 
> 
> 
> Again ive linked my ram above, advice on this would be appreciated
> 
> Also if anything else needs changing and etc please do tell.


Can you share some more info.
What were roughly your cpu and cpu-nb settings when you did get BSOD's?

As for the settings as you have them now: they look alright.

The ram section:
I would leave the voltage as is now.
Set the top 4 timing settings as displayed by the ram CAS table: 9-9-9-24.

Leave the cpu on the current clock and do either 10 runs of ibt avx on maximum or prime blend to see if the ram is stable.
If you do get errors then you can up the ram voltage as I am not so sure what to set as they display 1.5-1.65v.

If you don't have ibt avx:

IBTAVX.zip 4326k .zip file


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sorry to hear.
> I did laugh a bit when I say your comment.
> 
> IMO it is also a bit waste of money compared to a 8350.


Well I did score it for only 200 bucks, so it's not a complete waste
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Sorry to hear that.
> 
> I noticed in the past pics that you posted your NB freq is at 2600 and your max NB voltage was 1.11v also your Cpu/Nb was at 1.310 you can try upping either of the two.
> 
> Also when you run Prime what faults are you getting. I'm not 100% sure but I know some here can interpret those faults down to what your next step should be. That is unless your temp limited.


Cheers mate I will try your suggestions, all my prime faults are either Illegal Sumout or Rounding errors, and I've calmed down a bit I did get a wee bit over excited


----------



## Pipson10

Post with screenshots: http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/1890#post_21474915vvvvvvvvvvvvv

So ive been able to get it stable at 4.8ghz - passed IBT 10 runs and Prime95 at 30mins no fails.

The only changes i made was ram timings to 9-9-9-24 and CPU ratio to 24 and CPU V to 1.476V.

Temps were fine highest i saw was 66C but most of the time it was under 60C and usually around 56C~.

Now i wanna get to 4.9+, but i think this will be my 24/7 overclock at 4.8.

At 4.9+ (would like to get 5ghz stable) i feel like i need to make a few minor changes to my current settings (which are on the above link) especially to CPU/NB Manual Voltage, DRAM Voltage or anything else???

Also what is the difference in CPU multiplier overclocking and Bus speed? Would there be a difference in performance and temps?


----------



## Mega Man

can be yes, but 99% not in volts used ( will not lower volts needed )

be careful on that board with ocs that high.

fsb you may want to add some to. i dont remember the name but the one that is 1.8v i use +.005-.01v to get 300fsb, that is the volts that stabilize the fsb if youu over volt it you will set 201 and it will read 204.

cpu/nb if you have not already uses a bump usually as does northbridge


----------



## Pipson10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> can be yes, but 99% not in volts used ( will not lower volts needed )
> 
> be careful on that board with ocs that high.
> 
> fsb you may want to add some to. i dont remember the name but the one that is 1.8v i use +.005-.01v to get 300fsb, that is the volts that stabilize the fsb if youu over volt it you will set 201 and it will read 204.
> 
> cpu/nb if you have not already uses a bump usually as does northbridge


Sorry didnt understand that fully. What changes should i make (specific if you can) to try and get it to 5ghz stable


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Sorry didnt understand that fully. What changes should i make (specific if you can) to try and get it to 5ghz stable


Don't want to spoil it, but you won't see 5ghz with that cooler.
Aim for 4.8 max. Maybe even lower.


----------



## Pipson10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Don't want to spoil it, but you won't see 5ghz with that cooler.
> Aim for 4.8 max. Maybe even lower.


already managed to get 4.8ghz stable and temps were fine that i feel there maybe room for more. When i have the heaters off and the side case open it never reaches 60. I just liek input on changes to make to give a ''try'' no harm in that


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> already managed to get 4.8ghz stable and temps were fine that i feel there maybe room for more. When i have the heaters off and the side case open it never reaches 60. I just liek input on changes to make to give a ''try'' no harm in that


What do you consider stable?
How did you test it?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sorry to hear.
> I did laugh a bit when I say your comment.
> 
> IMO it is also a bit waste of money compared to a 8350.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Sorry to hear that.
> 
> I noticed in the past pics that you posted your NB freq is at 2600 and your max NB voltage was 1.11v also your Cpu/Nb was at 1.310 you can try upping either of the two.
> 
> Also when you run Prime what faults are you getting. I'm not 100% sure but I know some here can interpret those faults down to what your next step should be. That is unless your temp limited.


Here went another endless round of tweaking and cursing














10 Runs IBTAVX Custom 1200MB

5.0 GHz @ 1.525 Vcore - 1.500 CPU/NB anything above 1,525 Vcore would hardlock on IBTAVX

CPU VDDA @ 2.5 Fail - 2.8 Fail (hardlock)

RAM 1866 @ 1.50 - 1.65 Fail (hardlock)

CPU/NB @ 2200 - 2600 Fail

NB @ 1.2V - 1.5V Fail

NB HT @ 1.3 - 1.5 Fail

Temps were passable, didn't go above 66 degrees, at least I now know my thresholds







. I also ran each test at the setting before the hardlocks. So I'm now totally out of ideas


----------



## Mega Man

nb @1.2 should not need more, ht you should not have to change, ever ( unless going for more then stock, let me tell you this adds heat @3900ht... i have lots of heat... hehe )

cpu/nb @~1.2-1.3 no more, again adds nothing but heat

you could put your rig in your sig would help us

what cooler are you running?

if water cooling are you cooling your vrms with fan ( ii know this has been asked, but i have poor memory sorry.

also 1.5 is way to low vcore, you will probably need 1.6 or so

i never had any luck with VDDA on asus leave it at 2.5

with that vcore you will probably get 4.7-4.8,


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nb @1.2 should not need more, ht you should not have to change, ever ( unless going for more then stock, let me tell you this adds heat @3900ht... i have lots of heat... hehe )
> 
> cpu/nb @~1.2-1.3 no more, again adds nothing but heat
> 
> you could put your rig in your sig would help us
> 
> what cooler are you running?
> 
> if water cooling are you cooling your vrms with fan ( ii know this has been asked, but i have poor memory sorry.
> 
> also 1.5 is way to low vcore, you will probably need 1.6 or so
> 
> i never had any luck with VDDA on asus leave it at 2.5
> 
> with that vcore you will probably get 4.7-4.8,


All good mate. So I rejigged the voltage - NB @ 1.2V - HT @ 2600 still - CPU/NB 1.2V - VDDA 2.5V and reamed 1.575V Vcore

1.575 Vcore - DPC Watchdog Violation BSOD
1.568 Vcore - IRQL Not Less Or Equal BSOD
1.556 Vcore - See Above BSOD
1.550 Vcore - System Thread Exception Not Handled BSOD
1.5437 Vcore - System Service Exception BSOD
1.5375 Vcore - See Above BSOD
1.53125 Vcore - System Thread Exception Not Handled BSOD
1.525 Vcore - 1 failed run @ IBTAVX 80% RAM

Custom Loop, with fans over NB and GPU VRM due to non reference card, most likely it's a stinker of a chip/module that's causing me grief, or it's the very flakey pre-1900's wiring in the house that's starving my whole rig of clean constant power

And Gentleman I present the house circuit board that powers a 60 Inch Plasma, Bluray Player, 800 Watt 7.1 Surround System, My PC, my housemates PC, my housemates laptop, 3 stereos/surround systems, washing machine, dryer etc etc etc


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here went another endless round of tweaking and cursing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 10 Runs IBTAVX Custom 1200MB
> 
> 5.0 GHz @ 1.525 Vcore - 1.500 CPU/NB anything above 1,525 Vcore would hardlock on IBTAVX
> 
> CPU VDDA @ 2.5 Fail - 2.8 Fail (hardlock)
> 
> RAM 1866 @ 1.50 - 1.65 Fail (hardlock)
> 
> CPU/NB @ 2200 - 2600 Fail
> 
> NB @ 1.2V - 1.5V Fail
> 
> NB HT @ 1.3 - 1.5 Fail
> 
> Temps were passable, didn't go above 66 degrees, at least I now know my thresholds
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I also ran each test at the setting before the hardlocks. So I'm now totally out of ideas


Hey just food for thought. That CPU/NB voltage is crazy high! I found past 1.35 is too much and around 1.30v with a mix of vdda around 2.60v works well.

I hope your test havent been with CPU/NB that high.









also, Your pic of that power box made me cry a bit.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Hey just food for thought. That CPU/NB voltage is crazy high! I found past 1.35 is too much and around 1.30v with a mix of vdda around 2.60v works well.
> 
> I hope your test havent been with CPU/NB that high.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, Your pic of that power box made me cry a bit.


Haha, I think my cpu/nb voltage being that high is a hangover from my thuban days of having it very close to vcore voltage, must learn to not pump it that high.

I cry every time I walk past the fusebox









_EDIT_ dropped the cpu/nb to 1.3, ramped vdda to 2.6 and pummelled the cpu up to 5.8, 5.9 and 6.0 and got hardlock, hardlock and crash respectively, no BSOD so cheers AQ you've pointed me roughly in the right direction and big props to everyone for their patience and advice, I will get this varmint stable at 5GHz even if it kills me (or I fry the chip)


----------



## miklkit

I live in a 76 year old house and it does have unstable wiring. My solution is a 1,000 volt, 600 watt Uninterruptable Power Supply and it does make a difference. It is not unusual to hear it happily clicking on and off while I am stress testing.
And something that big is needed. When I was running X2 6970s and an OCed 8350 it would show over 700 watts being drawn from the wall. Now with a single R9 280X it stays below 500 watts.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I live in a 76 year old house and it does have unstable wiring. My solution is a 1,000 volt, 600 watt Uninterruptable Power Supply and it does make a difference. It is not unusual to hear it happily clicking on and off while I am stress testing.
> And something that big is needed. When I was running X2 6970s and an OCed 8350 it would show over 700 watts being drawn from the wall. Now with a single R9 280X it stays below 500 watts.


When I'm stresstesting my powerboard clicks like a maniac as well sorta like it's tripping on and off and trying to get as much voltage as needed to the PC.
I currently only have the Rig and one monitor hooked up to it and it's not clicking as badly


----------



## miklkit

1. What is your rig? You have no sig rig.

2. Get thyself a BIG UPS ASAP! Those things come with batteries and do help smooth out the power delivery. A good Seasonic PSU also is a very big help.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Make sure it's true sine wave too, not simulated. Also try to leave a 25% or so overhead. If you're drawing 800W, then your UPS will probably be 1000W/1650VA or so.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Just updated my Sig to show the 9590 Rig, it's The Slug







. just had a quick squizz at 1000W UPS' online they're ranging from $100 AUD to 1400 AUD



Thoughts?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Sorry for the double post, but The Slug hardlocked on the desktop, until I can get a UPS I will be running stock thank you very much, lest I end up with a very expensive paperweight


----------



## miklkit

My 1st UPS was a cheap Belkin which I fried in less than a year. It was shorting out and spitting sparks at the end.

I now have an APC which is giving good service. The replaceable battery looks to be big enough to start a 4 cylinder car and it has a led screen that is easy to read. Heh, sitting here with a antivirus scan going it is using 220-250 watts.

Get the good stuff. It will hurt your wallet now, but it beats buying a new computer.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> My 1st UPS was a cheap Belkin which I fried in less than a year. It was shorting out and spitting sparks at the end.
> 
> I now have an APC which is giving good service. The replaceable battery looks to be big enough to start a 4 cylinder car and it has a led screen that is easy to read. Heh, sitting here with a antivirus scan going it is using 220-250 watts.
> 
> Get the good stuff. It will hurt your wallet now, but it beats buying a new computer.


There's a quote I like to use which is "Short term pain for long term gain", which I think is very apt here. Oh and Happy New Year everyone


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

IT IS STILL 2013 ON THE EAST COAST!







Good advice. $30 is not a good deal on a PSU if it's a 500W Corsair CX. $50 AR for a 650W Rosewill Capstone is much better. A good PSU followed by a good UPS and/or surge protector are the best way to protect against things you can't control. Make sure you know your system's limits too, but a couple hundred dollars investment can save a thousand dollar rig.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> IT IS STILL 2013 ON THE EAST COAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good advice. $30 is not a good deal on a PSU if it's a 500W Corsair CX. $50 AR for a 650W Rosewill Capstone is much better. A good PSU followed by a good UPS and/or surge protector are the best way to protect against things you can't control. Make sure you know your system's limits too, but a couple hundred dollars investment can save a thousand dollar rig.


Aye. I have the capstone 750 from rosewill. Solid psu


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> IT IS STILL 2013 ON THE EAST COAST!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good advice. $30 is not a good deal on a PSU if it's a 500W Corsair CX. $50 AR for a 650W Rosewill Capstone is much better. A good PSU followed by a good UPS and/or surge protector are the best way to protect against things you can't control. Make sure you know your system's limits too, but a couple hundred dollars investment can save a thousand dollar rig.


It's New Years Day in Australia


----------



## miklkit

It's still 2013 here on the left coast for another 2 1/2 hours.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It's still 2013 here on the left coast for another 2 1/2 hours.


Happy new year.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Happy New Year


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Happy New Year *2014*


----------



## p5ych00n5

Has anyone heard/tried this program:
http://www.jam-software.com/heavyload/

If so, any thoughts at it's worth of a stresstester for an OC. I've had it going for a bit and it does seem to push the CPU, but not quite sure if it's to the extent of Prime or IBTAVX


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Has anyone heard/tried this program:
> http://www.jam-software.com/heavyload/
> 
> If so, any thoughts at it's worth of a stresstester for an OC. I've had it going for a bit and it does seem to push the CPU, but not quite sure if it's to the extent of Prime or IBTAVX


Can I ask why you want other program's to test stability?


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can I ask why you want other program's to test stability?


Seems legit. Its been around since 2002 with updates to 2013.

Also Its not bad to think outside the box. Just pair it up side by side. run prime if it fails. Run this program see if it picks up the same failure point.

I like the way this looks over primes bland gui. This may be more adjustable too from reading the updates. hmm.

also just seen that it has gpu load to add to heavy load! full stresser!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can I ask why you want other program's to test stability?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Seems legit. Its been around since 2002 with updates to 2013.
> 
> Also Its not bad to think outside the box. Just pair it up side by side. run prime if it fails. Run this program see if it picks up the same failure point.
> 
> I like the way this looks over primes bland gui. This may be more adjustable too from reading the updates. hmm.
> 
> also just seen that it has gpu load to add to heavy load! full stresser!


Ya, and you can adjust whether you want just a memory, gpu or cpu stresstest rather than having a million and one seperate programs doing a million and one seperate tests

Just ran the program at Stock, Hardlock







.


----------



## miklkit

Aww man........... You have an expensive PSU so it looks to be an undervolt situation.

When you are stress testing do you use HWINFO64? I'm wondering if you can see the voltages wandering around and causing the crash.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Aww man........... You have an expensive PSU so it looks to be an undervolt situation.
> 
> When you are stress testing do you use HWINFO64? I'm wondering if you can see the voltages wandering around and causing the crash.


Here's some voltages after a quick 'n dirty max IBTAVX run




This is with the whole Rig barebone Stock


----------



## miklkit

When It's running IBT are the numbers changing a lot or are they staying the same almost all the time?

Nothing there is really jumping out at me, but I'm not exactly an expert either.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> When It's running IBT are the numbers changing a lot or are they staying the same almost all the time?
> 
> Nothing there is really jumping out at me, but I'm not exactly an expert either.


Update: Disabled Turbo and enabled CPU & CPU/NB LLC = Huzzah




With LLC enabled, volts didn't drop to anorexic levels. I also reckon with Turbo disabled Vcore didn't spike as hard.









Now to conquer 4.8


----------



## p5ych00n5

Sorry for the double post, 4.8 bios settings as before:





_EDIT_ notched up to 4.9 - -1xxxxxxx fails


----------



## miklkit

I don't know enough about your rig, but those temps look high. Is that normal for that board?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I don't know enough about your rig, but those temps look high. Is that normal for that board?


Yeah, I second that.
Those temps would be too high for my taste.


----------



## miklkit

Ok, there is something wrong. Unless someone can figure out a way to get that HAL 9590 rocking you might want to consider RMAing it. I say this because I finally got around to installing my HAL9590 and there is a world of difference.

This one has the same 1.513 VID but runs way cooler. Before installing I disabled turbo and enabled Cool N Quiet, and set the ram to 1866mhz. Everything else is on Auto so it peaks @ 4.7ghz. But under load @ 4.7 it was only pulling 1.448 vcore max and running @ 44C....on air.

Methinks there is something wrong with yours p5ych00n5.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I don't know enough about your rig, but those temps look high. Is that normal for that board?


Probable high ambient temp. I'd have to guess it's summer time heat playing into the picture judging from the mainboard and SB temps posted above. (plus their location)


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ok, there is something wrong. Unless someone can figure out a way to get that HAL 9590 rocking you might want to consider RMAing it. I say this because I finally got around to installing my HAL9590 and there is a world of difference.
> 
> This one has the same 1.513 VID but runs way cooler. Before installing I disabled turbo and enabled Cool N Quiet, and set the ram to 1866mhz. Everything else is on Auto so it peaks @ 4.7ghz. But under load @ 4.7 it was only pulling 1.448 vcore max and running @ 44C....on air.
> 
> Methinks there is something wrong with yours p5ych00n5.


Those temps posted by p5ys00n5 are definitely close to what I get at 1.5v at 26deg c ambient at 1.5 volts with two 120.3 rads. The second picture posted with 73 deg max o.0 ????


----------



## savagemic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Sorry for the double post, 4.8 bios settings as before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _EDIT_ notched up to 4.9 - -1xxxxxxx fails


What rig is that in? Assuming that water cooled?


----------



## miklkit

Perhaps I was stoked and spoke too soon. I have been going up on clocks and volts and am now getting computer black screens and lockups too.

Gotta find that sweet spot.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Ambient & incase Temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I don't know enough about your rig, but those temps look high. Is that normal for that board?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Yeah, I second that.
> Those temps would be too high for my taste.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ok, there is something wrong. Unless someone can figure out a way to get that HAL 9590 rocking you might want to consider RMAing it. I say this because I finally got around to installing my HAL9590 and there is a world of difference.
> 
> This one has the same 1.513 VID but runs way cooler. Before installing I disabled turbo and enabled Cool N Quiet, and set the ram to 1866mhz. Everything else is on Auto so it peaks @ 4.7ghz. But under load @ 4.7 it was only pulling 1.448 vcore max and running @ 44C....on air.
> 
> Methinks there is something wrong with yours p5ych00n5.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Probable high ambient temp. I'd have to guess it's summer time heat playing into the picture judging from the mainboard and SB temps posted above. (plus their location)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanQtrmaine*
> 
> Those temps posted by p5ys00n5 are definitely close to what I get at 1.5v at 26deg c ambient at 1.5 volts with two 120.3 rads. The second picture posted with 73 deg max o.0 ????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *savagemic*
> 
> What rig is that in? Assuming that water cooled?


Cheers for all your help guys, I reseated the CPU applied new TIM and ghetto rigged a fan behind the MOBO tray




Temps dropped at least 10 degrees, this is at the 4.8 settings that I previously posted, ambient temps are roughly 25 degrees


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> Ambient & incase Temps.
> 
> Cheers for all your help guys, I reseated the CPU applied new TIM and ghetto rigged a fan behind the MOBO tray
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Temps dropped at least 10 degrees, this is at the 4.8 settings that I previously posted, ambient temps are roughly 25 degrees


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*


So I'm an hour into a P95 session, hasn't gone above 54 degrees









Now I'm effin angry, things are humming along fine - powerboard starts clicking like a maniac PC locks up


----------



## p5ych00n5

So after defaulting to stock settings and still hardlocking, until I get a decent UPS there is no more OCing, there goes my GPU upgrade


----------



## miklkit

If it's any consolation to you, this 9590 is black screening, which causes the mouse and keyboard to drop out, and the reset and power buttons to do nothing. The only option is to flip the switch on the PSU off-pause-on and then restart. I'm calling it the Black Screen Of Death.

It runs great at 4.8 and at 4.9 it does everything but stress testing. That gives a quick BSOD no matter how I set it up. Turbo or no turbo. FSB or no FSB. Multi only. It seems to be voltage related.


----------



## Mega Man

it sounds like ocp to me


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> If it's any consolation to you, this 9590 is black screening, which causes the mouse and keyboard to drop out, and the reset and power buttons to do nothing. The only option is to flip the switch on the PSU off-pause-on and then restart. I'm calling it the Black Screen Of Death.
> 
> It runs great at 4.8 and at 4.9 it does everything but stress testing. That gives a quick BSOD no matter how I set it up. Turbo or no turbo. FSB or no FSB. Multi only. It seems to be voltage related.


4.8, click - Hardlock. 4.9, click - Hardlock, it's the same with me any configuration of settings always brings up the same result
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it sounds like ocp to me


Over Current Protection yes?. The fact that it's even doing it at stock but not as frequently leads me to believe the power in this house is so flakey it's either dropping so low it's starving my rig of juice, or it's got homicidal tendencies and attempting to fry my rig with big spikes of dirty power but the surge protectors stepping in

EDIT Twice at stocksettings click-hardlock, I am so far over this you have to send Sherpas up the north face to find me


----------



## miklkit

The BSODs have nearly stopped now for me. I'm starting to think I was too impatient in waiting for the Antec formula 7 TIM to cure. But other problems are appearing.

I know I'm getting stable power as when stress testing the 8350 the voltages would hardly move at all. Now they are moving quite a bit and all the time. This leads me to speculate that the cpu itself is a bit unstable.

Also, methinks my bios is acting up as now it is misreading the ram as 1600 instead of 1866. MSI is aware that the latest bios has problems and is working on it, so I'm going to sit on this 4.8ghz HAL9590 until they release the next bios.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The BSODs have nearly stopped now for me. I'm starting to think I was too impatient in waiting for the Antec formula 7 TIM to cure. But other problems are appearing.
> 
> I know I'm getting stable power as when stress testing the 8350 the voltages would hardly move at all. Now they are moving quite a bit and all the time. This leads me to speculate that the cpu itself is a bit unstable.
> 
> Also, methinks my bios is acting up as now it is misreading the ram as 1600 instead of 1866. MSI is aware that the latest bios has problems and is working on it, so I'm going to sit on this 4.8ghz HAL9590 until they release the next bios.


Different board I know but I'd updated to the latest BIOS through Asus problems problems problems, I rolled back and Huzzah none so far, so maybe rollback to an earlier BIOS


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The BSODs have nearly stopped now for me. I'm starting to think I was too impatient in waiting for the Antec formula 7 TIM to cure. But other problems are appearing.
> 
> I know I'm getting stable power as when stress testing the 8350 the voltages would hardly move at all. Now they are moving quite a bit and all the time. This leads me to speculate that the cpu itself is a bit unstable.
> 
> Also, methinks my bios is acting up as now it is misreading the ram as 1600 instead of 1866. MSI is aware that the latest bios has problems and is working on it, so I'm going to sit on this 4.8ghz HAL9590 until they release the next bios.


Sorry for the Double Post, but the bios rollback failed to quell the hangs, two hangs and two reboots resulted in this




Rebooted, initialised stock settings hang - hang - hang







, Reboot initialise optimum defaults, no hang, no lock, smooth sailing

One thing is clear, any settings which alter voltages in anyway, always, 100% of the time results in the hangs and hardlocks. Anything - I enable LLC - hang. I manually notch up the voltage - hang. Enable OV - hang.
I have 10 A4 sheets of paper with different clock settings, using multiplier, using frequency, ouji board summonings all result in the one conclusion. I. Must. Get. A. UPS. Even now at optimum defaults my surge protector is click-click-click


----------



## Mega Man

sounds like it is time to move to me


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sounds like it is time to move to me










Problem is we've only been here for 3 months


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Problem is we've only been here for 3 months


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*


Only another 9 months to go


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Only another 9 months to go


There's always accidentally house-fires.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> There's always accidentally house-fires.


Bahahahahaha, I'll just run my second rig straight from the wall socket, no surge protection and she'll light up like a firework on fourth of july


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Bahahahahaha, I'll just run my second rig straight from the wall socket, no surge protection and she'll light up like a firework on fourth of july


Can you post a log on this.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can you post a log on this.


Should have key witness firefighters too


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Can you post a log on this.


Watch this space

_EDIT_ Installed a fan behind the mobo tray

Fan

No Fan


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Watch this space
> 
> _EDIT_ Installed a fan behind the mobo tray
> 
> Fan
> 
> No Fan


Oh, that's clever. Mounting on the backplate...
Did you use double tape or something?

Does help allot, right? I have a 120mm fan down there.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Oh, that's clever. Mounting on the backplate...
> Did you use double tape or something?
> 
> Does help allot, right? I have a 120mm fan down there.


It;s an old GSkill Ram cooler, I just flattened it and hooked where it clips onto the end of the Ram over the backplate and theres 4 clips which hold the two lengths of cable securing it nice 'n snug, it's dropped temps by about 3 degrees


----------



## miklkit

That looks like a nice tight install. I like that pad on the back side of the VRMs too. Every little bit helps.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That looks like a nice tight install. I like that pad on the back side of the VRMs too. Every little bit helps.


Sabertooth vrm sink FTW.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That looks like a nice tight install. I like that pad on the back side of the VRMs too. Every little bit helps.


It's the NB Heatsink backplate









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Sabertooth vrm sink FTW.


So close, Crosshair V Formala Z


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I like that pad on the back side of the VRMs too. Every little bit helps.


Here's an interesting thought.
I use to think the same thing till I put my NB/VRM under water. Here's a clip from the EK installation manual.

"This product is intent to be run without the backplates. The stock backplates are made of steel anyway and don't have practically any cooling surface. Their only job is to ensure even contact of the factory flimsy heat-pipe cooling system with the MOSFETs. Because the EK-FB ASUS C5F-Z waterblock is made out of hard electrolytic copper there is no need for such backplates."

You'd be amazed at the temp drop of both NB and VRM.


----------



## miklkit

I am aware that that plate is a stiffener to hold the cooler flat onto the VRMs. When I had a Gigabyte board we all were looking at that stiffener and trying to come up with one of our own as those boards got so hot the PCB would warp and pull the VRMs away from the heat sink.
I glued a rubber foot from a pc steering wheel between the motherboard and the case to push mine back into shape after it warped.

The MSI 990FXA GD80 adds a third bolt in the center of the VRM heat sink to hold the PCB flat against it.

Asus really should add cooling fins to that stiffener plate tho.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am aware that that plate is a stiffener to hold the cooler flat onto the VRMs. When I had a Gigabyte board we all were looking at that stiffener and trying to come up with one of our own as those boards got so hot the PCB would warp and pull the VRMs away from the heat sink.
> I glued a rubber foot from a pc steering wheel between the motherboard and the case to push mine back into shape after it warped.
> 
> The MSI 990FXA GD80 adds a third bolt in the center of the VRM heat sink to hold the PCB flat against it.
> 
> Asus really should add cooling fins to that stiffener plate tho.


and what if the case does not have a cpu cutout !


----------



## miklkit

Either get a better case or get out ye olde hacksaw!


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I am aware that that plate is a stiffener to hold the cooler flat onto the VRMs. When I had a Gigabyte board we all were looking at that stiffener and trying to come up with one of our own as those boards got so hot the PCB would warp and pull the VRMs away from the heat sink.
> I glued a rubber foot from a pc steering wheel between the motherboard and the case to push mine back into shape after it warped.
> 
> The MSI 990FXA GD80 adds a third bolt in the center of the VRM heat sink to hold the PCB flat against it.
> 
> Asus really should add cooling fins to that stiffener plate tho.


Depending on the case, these might do the trick
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_314&products_id=24256
With my case theres a 20mm gap between the side panel and the motherboard tray.


----------



## The Sandman

The bottom line here is it's a steel backplate. Heat transfer/absorption would be minimal.
Copper absorbs the most heat but aluminum gives up the heat faster.

IMHO if you're going to do anything why not fab a backplate out of aluminum at least.
You could even incorporate the added material for fins for a HS of sorts and it would be one piece.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> The bottom line here is it's a steel backplate. Heat transfer/absorption would be minimal.
> Copper absorbs the most heat but aluminum gives up the heat faster.
> 
> IMHO if you're going to do anything why not fab a backplate out of aluminum at least.
> You could even incorporate the added material for fins for a HS of sorts and it would be one piece.


You da man









And since I can't OC, I'm gonna have a crack at Undervolting, should keep me busy until I can get a UPS


----------



## herericc

So my 8320 has 4 cores that aren't quite as good. I got 4 cores (2 modules) to run prim with no issues at 5GHz at 1.5V.

Only using 4 cores brought my temps to a more reasonable range, though I'm also planning on buying some nicer radiator fans than the stock h220 fans. Max prime temp after 10m was 67.3 *and 55*.

Is there any way to enable turbo core only on certain CPU's? I was thinking it would be pretty cool if I could determine the max overclock for all my cores including the crappier ones, then set turbo just for cores 1,2,3, and 4 since I know they run at 5GHz.


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I don't think it's possible based on CPU architecture. There is a device called the clock that counts cycles essentially. Overclocking does literally just that: the clock runs at a higher frequency. The only way this could be possible is if all modules ran at whole number ratios, but that would require an entirely new architure if not microprocessor paradigm.


----------



## herericc

Well, the turbo core usually is clocking up only certain cores, so if it was module based, i would only want it to use turbo core on modules 1 and 2 since my modules 3 and 4 can't even get to 4.8ghz without like 1.5V which overloads my H220 pretty fast : /

Also it's worth mentioning that I have a pretty good understanding of the architecture, learning about it at school


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Well your classes sound much more interesting than mine...







Does TurboCore really only do that for certain cores? I find this improbable. Source, please?


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Well your classes sound much more interesting than mine...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does TurboCore really only do that for certain cores? I find this improbable. Source, please?


Don't really need a source. Just enable turbocore and watch any monitor program. You can see certain cores go high up and others stay lower.


----------



## herericc

Yeah my source is the same as getochicken's. When you monitor your clock speeds with turbo on, only certain cores frequencies fluctuate.

If there was a way to specify which modules to run turbo core on, it would give overclockers a lot more to customize about their chip, since you can determine clocks that work for each module (my damn core 5 is making me clock the whole chip to 4.6, it refuses to be stable at any higher clock speeds : / )


----------



## piranha

When I have time I'll post my settings I've ran burnin to test for stability, power saving options are on as well idle runs at 14c and load under 40c. Very happy with the 8350.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *piranha*
> 
> When I have time I'll post my settings I've ran burnin to test for stability, power saving options are on as well idle runs at 14c and load under 40c. Very happy with the 8350.


Can't trust the 14c as these chips are not accurate till 32c but you can trust 400 so keep pushing that baby!


----------



## piranha

I'm happy with 5ghz haven't had time to play around with this pc lately


----------



## Dave van Hinton

Hey Guys ,

greatings from Germany so excuse my terrible english.

I've got an 9370 on an Asus M5A990FX board and can't keep my CPU running cold at Stock Setting with my Macho Cooler .

I've tried an Enermay AIO Watercooling , but it was loud and not that much cooler as the Macho.

Do you know any Stock Air/Liquid Cooler that can handle this 220TDP Monster ?

Im thinking about an Custom Water Cooling but this would be expansive ...

Thanks for any Input


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave van Hinton*
> 
> Hey Guys ,
> 
> greatings from Germany so excuse my terrible english.
> 
> I've got an 9370 on an Asus M5A990FX board and can't keep my CPU running cold at Stock Setting with my Macho Cooler .
> 
> I've tried an Enermay AIO Watercooling , but it was loud and not that much cooler as the Macho.
> 
> Do you know any Stock Air/Liquid Cooler that can handle this 220TDP Monster ?
> 
> Im thinking about an Custom Water Cooling but this would be expansive ...
> 
> Thanks for any Input


nope and i seriously question that boards ability to handle the 9xxx anything

besides that the 9xxx are ment to be used with a custom cooler specifically an open loop


----------



## Dave van Hinton

The Board ist listed on Asus do be okay for the 9xxx CPUs . Actually i'm running the CPU at settings Posted here . So it's undervolted and underclocked.

Yeah , your right the Boxed cooler is an AIO Watercooler like the Enermax I've tested. 120mm Radiator with two Fans.

What Coolers do you use for overclocking the 8xxx CPUs ?

Think the 9xxx and 8xxx are pretty much the same , so an overclocked 8xxx needs same cooling as an 9xxxx....

THX

Dave


----------



## Diwiak

9x are supported CPUs for M5A99FX (*Due to the high TDP, please be noted there are limitations while using this CPU(i.e. special thermal required*.)), so if it runs this is not problem, cant find max TDP of Macho cooler, probably its not powerful enough. better get some 220WTDP certified, for example http://www.coolermaster.com/company/newsDetail-M13072200015b0d-20130722.html


----------



## Dave van Hinton

So you think any 220W TDP Cooler can handle the CPU ? cuz there are some 250W or 280W AirCoolers on the market.

The Macho is around 140W TDP with Stock Fan , i'd installt a faster spinning 140mm Fan and some good Casefans . So i'm running around 60°C in BF4 with reduced Voltage.

So i think it's okay , but I want to overclock or atleast use the default clock of 4,7Ghz

Thx

Dave


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dave van Hinton*
> 
> So you think any 220W TDP Cooler can handle the CPU ? cuz there are some 250W or 280W AirCoolers on the market.
> 
> The Macho is around 140W TDP with Stock Fan , i'd installt a faster spinning 140mm Fan and some good Casefans . So i'm running around 60°C in BF4 with reduced Voltage.
> 
> So i think it's okay , but I want to overclock or atleast use the default clock of 4,7Ghz
> 
> Thx
> 
> Dave


there is very few air coolers for that chip that i would trust, i have 1 8350 with a h220 and the rest of my systems are all open loop


----------



## Diwiak

any of that coolers in link which i posted above HAVE to handle your CPU at default settings: "...many of our coolers can actually handle even significantly higher thermal loads - so there is still some room to tweak the latest FX processors, especially with our liquid cooling units...".

go for biggest liquid cooler and ull be fine IMO.

I think you want go to this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1414604/any-9590-or-9370-overclocking-results/290


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diwiak*
> 
> any of that coolers in link which i posted above HAVE to handle your CPU at default settings: "...many of our coolers can actually handle even significantly higher thermal loads - so there is still some room to tweak the latest FX processors, especially with our liquid cooling units...".
> 
> go for biggest liquid cooler and ull be fine IMO.
> 
> I think you want go to this thread http://www.overclock.net/t/1414604/any-9590-or-9370-overclocking-results/290


and yet i would only trust the h220 variant and i would still at at min another 240


----------



## Diwiak

and I would give it extra VRM heatsink fan/back of the cpu socket fan. there will be huuuuge load


----------



## Dave van Hinton

Hey

got some 30mm , 80mm and 90mm Fans here , gonna install 'em to blow some Air round the VRM Heatsink.
My CPU heat up to 80°C + under Prime95 with BF4 Need4Speed etc its about 60°.

TDp : the Enermax ELC 120 has a TDP of 250W and it doesn't keep temps lower , but it was loud

thanks for the Links and info

Dave


----------



## Sa10

Newbie here been trying to OC my newly acquired 8320 on the recommened settings with a multiplier of 20 at 4ghz and my temps seem to be extremely high running Prime95 on Small FFT, hitting up to 70C+. I shut prime95 down before it gets any hotter. Just trying to figure out why the temps are hitting that high when it seems that the OC is only 500MHz above stock clock settings. However if i change everything besides the CPU Voltage and run Prime95 again with the same multiplier im capping out at 60C after an hour of running the program. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

My Rig is as follows:
AMD FX 8320
Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
Enermax T40 TB
Antec Lanboy 350ATX
Rosewell 500PSU
HD6870
12gbs of RAM, forgot the make.

Case is open with a table fan blowing into the case, i know this isn't an ideal setup but when I get some extra cash to invest in a good case that will be my next purchase. Below is an image of my comp with the Recommend settings sans the CPU Voltage is on Auto rather than having inputed the 1.3625 that would have been in its place.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sa10*
> 
> Newbie here been trying to OC my newly acquired 8320 on the recommened settings with a multiplier of 20 at 4ghz and my temps seem to be extremely high running Prime95 on Small FFT, hitting up to 70C+. I shut prime95 down before it gets any hotter. Just trying to figure out why the temps are hitting that high when it seems that the OC is only 500MHz above stock clock settings. However if i change everything besides the CPU Voltage and run Prime95 again with the same multiplier im capping out at 60C after an hour of running the program. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> My Rig is as follows:
> AMD FX 8320
> Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
> Enermax T40 TB
> Antec Lanboy 350ATX
> Rosewell 500PSU
> HD6870
> 12gbs of RAM, forgot the make.
> 
> Case is open with a table fan blowing into the case, i know this isn't an ideal setup but when I get some extra cash to invest in a good case that will be my next purchase. Below is an image of my comp with the Recommend settings sans the CPU Voltage is on Auto rather than having inputed the 1.3625 that would have been in its place.


welcome
1 dump hwmonitor and download hwinfo64 !


----------



## Haruspex

I'm in the middle of a budget upgrade to my pc and i was thinking to pair an AMD FX 8320 with the ASUS M5A97 r2.0 (not evo/le/pro), i'm planning to do a moderate overclock, and by that i mean if i manage to get a 4 ghz stable i would be happy. But i don't want to alter the multiplier, just pure FSB overclocking. I know it's kind of a theoretical question but do you guys think it's a doable oc in that mobo?

Also i want to ask about the memory divider options in the m5a97 r2.0, i think the default multiplier of the fx 8320 is 17,5 and with the default fsb of 200mhz that equals to 3,5ghz, no?

So if i want to reach 4ghz with that multiplier i have to increase the fsb around 233mhz. If i do just that, what speeds will the memory dividers give me in a standard cl9 ddr3 1600mhz ram?


----------



## Sa10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome
> 1 dump hwmonitor and download hwinfo64 !


Will get on it after I get back from class later today. Other than that what is the problem I am running into that would cause this issue? Our can it not be determined with the current info given by hwmonitor?


----------



## Diwiak

no matter, Iam using 4 hwmonitors, everyone is showing me different voltages but ALWAYS same temps. what cooler do you have?? must be some boxed one


----------



## Sa10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diwiak*
> 
> no matter, Iam using 4 hwmonitors, everyone is showing me different voltages but ALWAYS same temps. what cooler do you have?? must be some boxed one


I'm using an enermax t40tb, my idle temps are great and underload with the recommended settings but leaving CPU voltage on auto with a 500mhz OC those are the temps I am getting in my first post running prime95


----------



## Sa10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome
> 1 dump hwmonitor and download hwinfo64 !


So I went back and reseated my heatsink, following the instructions in the guide, thinking it may be a seating issue and decided to input all the values again from the recommended settings. I changed the multiplier from 17.5 to 20 and ran Prime for about 30 seconds before i hit 74C and decided to stop the program before I do permanent damage to the chip. Here are the monitors from HWMonitor, HWInfo64, and Core temp.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome
> 1 dump hwmonitor and download hwinfo64 !


I second that motion HWInfo gives you much better system monitoring


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sa10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> welcome
> 1 dump hwmonitor and download hwinfo64 !
> 
> 
> 
> Will get on it after I get back from class later today. Other than that what is the problem I am running into that would cause this issue? Our can it not be determined with the current info given by hwmonitor?
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sa10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Diwiak*
> 
> no matter, Iam using 4 hwmonitors, everyone is showing me different voltages but ALWAYS same temps. what cooler do you have?? must be some boxed one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using an enermax t40tb, my idle temps are great and underload with the recommended settings but leaving CPU voltage on auto with a 500mhz OC those are the temps I am getting in my first post running prime95
Click to expand...

make a rig in rig builder ( upper right hand corner of this page and add it to your sig ( click on your name goto your sig, edit and you should be bale to find it from there )

but that cooler will not cut it, i would recommend big air ( noctura phantecs ect and i mean their upper end ) or water that cooler wont get you far neither will a 212.


----------



## Sa10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> make a rig in rig builder ( upper right hand corner of this page and add it to your sig ( click on your name goto your sig, edit and you should be bale to find it from there )
> 
> but that cooler will not cut it, i would recommend big air ( noctura phantecs ect and i mean their upper end ) or water that cooler wont get you far neither will a 212.


Hmmm, would like to avoid water cooling at all cost. Something about having some liquids close to electrical components just doesn't sit right with me. Mind suggesting some Noctua coolers that allow for pretty decent Overclocks.


----------



## Mega Man

nhd14 ( or something similar, IE i may have order of letters wrong )

besides that watercooling is the best and it is a fun hobby


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> nhd14 ( or something similar, IE i may have order of letters wrong )
> 
> besides that watercooling is the best and it is a fun hobby


It also eats a giant hole in your wallet


----------



## Diwiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sa10*
> 
> I'm using an enermax t40tb, my idle temps are great and underload with the recommended settings but leaving CPU voltage on auto with a 500mhz OC those are the temps I am getting in my first post running prime95


'
OH man u cant leave voltage at auto! please, read first page of this thread carefully to find out how to overclock. I think u wont damage cpu it already has some die protection afaik.

Edit: I checked your screenshot,cpu voltage is not that high,open pc case, and when hw monitor shows up to 70C degrees, touch cpu heatsink with your hand-if its mounted properly it have to be hot that u wont hold your fingers there.


----------



## Sa10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diwiak*
> 
> '
> OH man u cant leave voltage at auto! please, read first page of this thread carefully to find out how to overclock. I think u wont damage cpu it already has some die protection afaik.
> 
> Edit: I checked your screenshot,cpu voltage is not that high,open pc case, and when hw monitor shows up to 70C degrees, touch cpu heatsink with your hand-if its mounted properly it have to be hot that u wont hold your fingers there.


When I was doing my initial OC, I did not leave my CPU Voltage on auto. I had inputted the stock voltages that the MOBO had shown. I guess the use of some commas and periods in my sentences would leave out the confusion.

I will have to test that when I get home from work tonight Diwiak.

So this is how it goes, followed the guide to the "T" so to say. Inputted all the values from the recommended settings from the guide into the Bios. Set my multiplier to 20 and reboot to desktop. Ran Prime for a min or so and the results were the image that were posted a couple posts ago, core temp hitting 70+ in a matter of a minute.

Now, if i leave all the settings in the bios to be default and have the chip Turbo to 4ghz and test using Prime again, my temps are in the low 40'sC after half an hour of running. Just trying to understand why temps are as such with an aftermarket cooler, granted its not gonna be as good as a Noctua. But it shouldn't have to be since the OC is not that big, in fact its not even pushing above the chips Turbo. Now I know not to trust the internet, but ive read on other forums of people getting 4.4GHz on a CM 212.


----------



## Diwiak

pretty interesting. try what I said - check cpu heatsink temperature, with hand or some laser thermometer(if you have some),Iam curious if it will be really that hot, or if heatsink is just not sitting well(it could be allright at default clocks, but maybe wont hold when bit overclocked). one more thing, overclock, reboot, and just stay in bios status screen and chcek temps if it will rise excessively. also I would update bios to last one, if there is some temp monitoring bug (but I dont guess this because cpu temp is high as well cpu cores).let us know, iam really curious whats the matter


----------



## Mega Man

as to water cooling eating a hole in your pocket not that bad imo. depends, in a 6k pc 500 is not alot to spend to keep all your components cool.

i have not even bought all the fans i need but i think i spent more then most spend on cases on fans alone, and i buy cheap fans !


----------



## Sa10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diwiak*
> 
> pretty interesting. try what I said - check cpu heatsink temperature, with hand or some laser thermometer(if you have some),Iam curious if it will be really that hot, or if heatsink is just not sitting well(it could be allright at default clocks, but maybe wont hold when bit overclocked). one more thing, overclock, reboot, and just stay in bios status screen and chcek temps if it will rise excessively. also I would update bios to last one, if there is some temp monitoring bug (but I dont guess this because cpu temp is high as well cpu cores).let us know, iam really curious whats the matter


So I tried doing what you said and touched the HSU as I had Prime running in the background didnt feel hot. Beginning to think its this generic compound I had laying around from RadioShack, so ordered some arctic silver 5 to try again. Bios temps seem fine no sporadic jumps in temp. Guess ill find out what the deal is when the compound comes in.


----------



## Ghall

Hei guys, I'm having some issues with my 8350 regarding load temperatures, it idles at around 34c. First of all, specs:

8350, sabertooth 990fx r.2, h100i with 2 noctuas (p12 and f12) set in pull exhaust, 8gb kingston beast 1600 mhz, cm 690 II advanced windowed with 2 intakes and 1 exhaust.



For the bios settings I reseted everything to default and then used "recommended settings up to 5.0 ghz" with my NB voltage set to 1.25 and cpu voltage 1.39(the default i was getting).

As you can see I managed to hit 4.5 ghz with the stock voltage but I'm having really high temps. The image above is after 10 min of small fft in prime 95.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghall*
> 
> Hei guys, I'm having some issues with my 8350 regarding load temperatures, it idles at around 34c. First of all, specs:
> 
> 8350, sabertooth 990fx r.2, h100i with 2 noctuas (p12 and f12) set in pull exhaust, 8gb kingston beast 1600 mhz, cm 690 II advanced windowed with 2 intakes and 1 exhaust.
> 
> For the bios settings I reseted everything to default and then used "recommended settings up to 5.0 ghz" with my NB voltage set to 1.25 and cpu voltage 1.39(the default i was getting).
> 
> As you can see I managed to hit 4.5 ghz with the stock voltage but I'm having really high temps. The image above is after 10 min of small fft in prime 95.


First I would try swapping the Noctuas out for the original H100i SP120*L* fans. They are ~2400RPM and 4mmH2O static pressure - yes they are loud but they are performers. To do 5Ghz when I was using a H100i on the same motherboard and chip I had to lap the 8350 (it's quite convex) and use the SP120L's in push (along with Gelid GC Extreme TIM) at max RPM. I'm a bit surprised your temps are so high though even at 4.5Ghz. Personally I shut it down when the piledrivers hit 62*C

You should try cooling your VRMs if you haven't, which in turn will bring the CPU temp down a bit. You can use doublesided tape or zip ties to attach 40mm or larger fan(s) to the VRM & NB heatsinks. A fan on the back of the motherboard helps too. If you want to go all out I have my Sabertooth Rev2 (like yours) VRMs under water using a Koolance universal block

1.39V IME isn't close to enough voltage for 5Ghz btw ... if you look at the 5Ghz overclock club thread and peek at voltages for people with 8350s they are all 1.488+ - personally I need 1.55+ for mine, even with the VRMs & NB under water. But this voltage increase is of course going to raise your temps higher (see switching back to stock fans, lapping the 8350 and cooling the VRMs). You might want to check your TIM application too - I really do suggest lapping the 8350 because the H100i can't bolt flat to the HIS on the chip because it's domed


----------



## Ghall

Well, I did what you sad and replaced the noctuas with the stock fans. My computer sounds like a vacuum cleaner now but it did bring the temps down quite a bit. Actually I'm now able to hit 4.7 ghz with 1.44v and have a maximum socket temp of 65 and core temp in the high 50's while stress testing. I'm pretty confused, all the forums I've read sad that I should replace the stock fans with noctuas for less noise and more performance, what's going on ?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghall*
> 
> Well, I did what you sad and replaced the noctuas with the stock fans. My computer sounds like a vacuum cleaner now but it did bring the temps down quite a bit. Actually I'm now able to hit 4.7 ghz with 1.44v and have a maximum socket temp of 65 and core temp in the high 50's while stress testing. I'm pretty confused, all the forums I've read sad that I should replace the stock fans with noctuas for less noise and more performance, what's going on ?


I'm really glad that worked out for you

The Corsair SP120*L* fans are considerably better than the Corsair SP120s in the way of static pressure, FWIW - just something to keep in mind. The tradeoff is that the Ls are louder

I think the issue is that while the 120Ls are great performers, a lot of people talk about fan performance in terms of performance:noise ratio. So if the 120Ls give twice the performance but four times the amount of noise, they perform half as well in that context

Personally I game with headphones on and work in a datacenter so the noise is no big deal. I run my Scythe Gentle Typhoons at 3000RPM and my BGears at 1800RPM (their max) and the noise isn't a problem for me


----------



## Diwiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sa10*
> 
> So I tried doing what you said and touched the HSU as I had Prime running in the background didnt feel hot. Beginning to think its this generic compound I had laying around from RadioShack, so ordered some arctic silver 5 to try again. Bios temps seem fine no sporadic jumps in temp. Guess ill find out what the deal is when the compound comes in.


yes premium compound will help but not that much. check heatsink base if its flat enough- small curve isnt bad, its helping touch the center of cpu more

btw. I googled around and overheating seems to be a common problem, even with watercooling. https://www.google.sk/search?q=fx+8+overheating&oq=fx+8+overheating&aqs=chrome..69i57j0j69i60.203j0j9&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to water cooling eating a hole in your pocket not that bad imo. depends, in a 6k pc 500 is not alot to spend to keep all your components cool.
> 
> i have not even bought all the fans i need but i think i spent more then most spend on cases on fans alone, and i buy cheap fans !


So am I crazy?

Spending around 350-400 to cool a cpu only(for now) in a 1k build?


----------



## miklkit

You are not crazy. It looks like I will need to spend $600-$700 more in liquid cooling this year. This is nuts.

Those cheap Kaveri's are looking better and better.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to water cooling eating a hole in your pocket not that bad imo. depends, in a 6k pc 500 is not alot to spend to keep all your components cool.
> 
> i have not even bought all the fans i need but i think i spent more then most spend on cases on fans alone, and i buy cheap fans !


I was only joking







, once the initial outlay for blocks and such is out the way, they can be all migrated to different rigs, my CPU Block (Koolance CPU 370) for example has cooled a Phenom, Phenom II, i7 950 and now my 9590, as well my GPU Blocks are universal so when I upgrade my cards add another 20 - 50 clams for heatsinks and it's good to go.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghall*
> 
> Hei guys, I'm having some issues with my 8350 regarding load temperatures, it idles at around 34c. First of all, specs:
> 
> 8350, sabertooth 990fx r.2, h100i with 2 noctuas (p12 and f12) set in pull exhaust, 8gb kingston beast 1600 mhz, cm 690 II advanced windowed with 2 intakes and 1 exhaust.
> 
> 
> 
> For the bios settings I reseted everything to default and then used "recommended settings up to 5.0 ghz" with my NB voltage set to 1.25 and cpu voltage 1.39(the default i was getting).
> 
> As you can see I managed to hit 4.5 ghz with the stock voltage but I'm having really high temps. The image above is after 10 min of small fft in prime 95.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghall*
> 
> Well, I did what you sad and replaced the noctuas with the stock fans. My computer sounds like a vacuum cleaner now but it did bring the temps down quite a bit. Actually I'm now able to hit 4.7 ghz with 1.44v and have a maximum socket temp of 65 and core temp in the high 50's while stress testing. I'm pretty confused, all the forums I've read sad that I should replace the stock fans with noctuas for less noise and more performance, what's going on ?


whats going on is you are very very very unlikely to hit a stable 5ghz on a h100 or any other aio INCLUDING the h220 although it has the best chance. but as is, tbh it does nto ahve enough cooling capability unless you receive a very golden chip
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diwiak*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sa10*
> 
> So I tried doing what you said and touched the HSU as I had Prime running in the background didnt feel hot. Beginning to think its this generic compound I had laying around from RadioShack, so ordered some arctic silver 5 to try again. Bios temps seem fine no sporadic jumps in temp. Guess ill find out what the deal is when the compound comes in.
> 
> 
> 
> yes premium compound will help but not that much. check heatsink base if its flat enough- small curve isnt bad, its helping touch the center of cpu more
> 
> btw. I googled around and overheating seems to be a common problem, even with watercooling. https://www.google.sk/search?q=fx+8+overheating&oq=fx+8+overheating&aqs=chrome..69i57j0j69i60.203j0j9&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=122&ie=UTF-8
Click to expand...

depends on what you mean by "overheating" imo no it is not common cpus create heat, your job is to remove it, add to that that 99% of people are not prepared in anything they try to do ( well informed ) then sure alot of people will say it is "overheating" vs my cooling is not good enough

you can feel free to belive other people who claim they do, there is an infamous one in the 83xx thread that claims to hit 5ghz on a 212, and no i am not joking, this is why in threads i try to get people to have at least some form of common ground of what stable is

with that said there is a member in the 83xx thread that may be able to help, he has said many times that the h100 is very tricky to mount properly and that you can easily over tighten a screw and make you mount off

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to water cooling eating a hole in your pocket not that bad imo. depends, in a 6k pc 500 is not alot to spend to keep all your components cool.
> 
> i have not even bought all the fans i need but i think i spent more then most spend on cases on fans alone, and i buy cheap fans !
> 
> 
> 
> So am I crazy?
> 
> Spending around 350-400 to cool a cpu only(for now) in a 1k build?
Click to expand...

this is another question you have to ask yourself, not everyone can go straight to the top they have to do it in steps

what is your goal, what is your budget, what makes you happy

as for me as soon as i am home i wanna play with my pc so yes it is worth it, shoulda seen my pc when i started 970a-ud3 1.1 ( didnt know that was the good rev to get, just lucked out ) 6100 zal cooler and junky psu cheap case seriously, my case now is worth more then that entire pc6


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> So am I crazy?
> 
> Spending around 350-400 to cool a cpu only(for now) in a 1k build?


no key word.. for now


----------



## ronaldo9_r9

Hi Guys,

I am trying to overclock my FX4100 to stable 4.4GHZ. I have turned all of powersaving features off in BIOS and CPU LLC and CPU/NB LLC on auto. If i choose auto or disabled I get freezes and BSOD.

I have already tried multiplier method to overclock to 4.4 ghz that is running stable but I have read many comment where people use both multiplier and BUS method to overclock for even better performance.

I have now tried FBUS method of overclocking to see if its any better.

Please see CPUZ Validation here

I am running 4415.58 MHz (20 * 220.78 MHz) at 1.416 Volt. Temps are 64C for CPU and 57C for package temps. I ran IBT twice on very high and it came with message stable. I also noticed that when I increased BUS frequency to 220 Mhz ram overclock also from 1333 to 1429 (something like that)

here are my RAM results in CPUZ validation.

Size
16384 MB

Type
DDR3-1471 - Dual Channel

Frequency
735.9 MHz (3:10)

Timings
11-11-11-28

I am little worried that in winter temp are this high. I switched the room heater on to keep room temps at 20c.

Below are results of temps etc running IBT test.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Are these temps safe at that clock.

I have also read that you can enable cool and quiet etc on once pc is stable as per first post. For me to activate cool and quite I have to choose offset mode by doing that voltage and everything else change to auto. I opened CPUZ again and it choose voltage rang from 1.39v to 1.47v and it keeps going up and down depending on what I am doing on the pc. Where before manually setting voltage to 1.41v it stayed at that voltage.

Please advise which Power Saving features exactly I need to turn on this board/cpu to keep system stable.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldo9_r9*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am trying to overclock my FX4100 to stable 4.4GHZ. I have turned all of powersaving features off in BIOS and CPU LLC and CPU/NB LLC on auto. If i choose auto or disabled I get freezes and BSOD.
> 
> I have already tried multiplier method to overclock to 4.4 ghz that is running stable but I have read many comment where people use both multiplier and BUS method to overclock for even better performance.
> 
> I have now tried FBUS method of overclocking to see if its any better.
> 
> Please see CPUZ Validation here
> 
> I am running 4415.58 MHz (20 * 220.78 MHz) at 1.416 Volt. Temps are 64C for CPU and 57C for package temps. I ran IBT twice on very high and it came with message stable. I also noticed that when I increased BUS frequency to 220 Mhz ram overclock also from 1333 to 1429 (something like that)
> 
> here are my RAM results in CPUZ validation.
> 
> Size
> 16384 MB
> 
> Type
> DDR3-1471 - Dual Channel
> 
> Frequency
> 735.9 MHz (3:10)
> 
> Timings
> 11-11-11-28
> 
> I am little worried that in winter temp are this high. I switched the room heater on to keep room temps at 20c.
> 
> Below are results of temps etc running IBT test.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are these temps safe at that clock.
> 
> I have also read that you can enable cool and quiet etc on once pc is stable as per first post. For me to activate cool and quite I have to choose offset mode by doing that voltage and everything else change to auto. I opened CPUZ again and it choose voltage rang from 1.39v to 1.47v and it keeps going up and down depending on what I am doing on the pc. Where before manually setting voltage to 1.41v it stayed at that voltage.
> 
> Please advise which Power Saving features exactly I need to turn on this board/cpu to keep system stable.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Try this thread to start off with since I'm not that familiar with 4100's
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225268/amd-fx-4100-overclocking

There's so many variables with OC'ing because each Chip is different, because no piece of silicon is created equal what's good for one chip is different for another. there are people with 8350/9370 who are getting higher clocks than I am with less volts (9590).

Cooling is in my opinion the biggest factor, if you haven't sufficient cooling, all attempts at a decent clock will end in tears and in the end a fried chip or worse your whole system, keep your temps below 65C CPU and 60C core, lose HWMonitor in my experience it misreports true temperatures by 10 degrees, and download HWInfo64, it offers a far greater range of monitoring options

Put LLC on 75% (CPU & NB)

I like to keep Ram on stock frequencies & voltages while overclocking, you can always OC Ram later once you have a rock solid stable clock

You already have powersavings off:thumb:

Others have said that it's a good thing to manually input voltages, clear CMOS, go into BIOS and manually input each individual voltage rather than leaving everything Auto, my Rig hates this, yours may like it, again each chip is different

IBTAVX is your friend, standard IBT will pass even though it is unstable, download IBTAVX/Linx and run a minimum of 10 runs custom (80% Ram), then run P95 overnight

There are others here who are well more versed than I am that would be more than happy to help, hope this helps you out.

My







, Happy Clocking


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this is another question you have to ask yourself, not everyone can go straight to the top they have to do it in steps
> 
> what is your goal, what is your budget, what makes you happy
> 
> as for me as soon as i am home i wanna play with my pc so yes it is worth it, shoulda seen my pc when i started 970a-ud3 1.1 ( didnt know that was the good rev to get, just lucked out ) 6100 zal cooler and junky psu cheap case seriously, my case now is worth more then that entire pc6


Same here.
The PC is a hobby of mine. I like to watch it, tweak it and use it everyday.

Building a custom loop will also be a project and a challenge for me. Sure, some guys will declare me nuts for spending that much on just cooling. I can imagine them saying: the stock cooler is just as good, right?
Ehmm.. nope









I also have to do it in steps. My budget won't allow me to buy the complete set in one order.
I do have the block(xspc Raystorm amd/intel combo), pump(Swiftech mcp655 with ek x-top) and the tubing(Primo Advanced LRT white) already.

Decided to go with that pump so it will be powerful enough to run the loop when I decide to expand it to include the mobo and gpu in the future.
Block should be decent enough to cool the fx-8320 I guess. My chip likes to run at 5+ ghz with voltage around 1.58v, but the h100 says it's a no go.









I am still deciding which rad to get. If I want it internally in the case(650D) it will be a 240 max. But I will probably go with a UT60 or Monsta 360 rad and mount it on to the top of the case with a rad-stand.


----------



## ronaldo9_r9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Try this thread to start off with since I'm not that familiar with 4100's
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225268/amd-fx-4100-overclocking
> 
> There's so many variables with OC'ing because each Chip is different, because no piece of silicon is created equal what's good for one chip is different for another. there are people with 8350/9370 who are getting higher clocks than I am with less volts (9590).
> 
> Cooling is in my opinion the biggest factor, if you haven't sufficient cooling, all attempts at a decent clock will end in tears and in the end a fried chip or worse your whole system, keep your temps below 65C CPU and 60C core, lose HWMonitor in my experience it misreports true temperatures by 10 degrees, and download HWInfo64, it offers a far greater range of monitoring options
> 
> Put LLC on 75% (CPU & NB)
> 
> I like to keep Ram on stock frequencies & voltages while overclocking, you can always OC Ram later once you have a rock solid stable clock
> 
> You already have powersavings off:thumb:
> 
> Others have said that it's a good thing to manually input voltages, clear CMOS, go into BIOS and manually input each individual voltage rather than leaving everything Auto, my Rig hates this, yours may like it, again each chip is different
> 
> IBTAVX is your friend, standard IBT will pass even though it is unstable, download IBTAVX/Linx and run a minimum of 10 runs custom (80% Ram), then run P95 overnight
> 
> There are others here who are well more versed than I am that would be more than happy to help, hope this helps you out.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Happy Clocking


Cheers Boss. I am stable at IBT and I ran prime for 4 hours and its stable. I could not find download IBTAVX/Linx using google search.

I have a different motherboard (Asus M5A97 LE R2.0) that does not give options like Put LLC on 75% (CPU & NB). Only option I get is to either enable,disable or auto.

Please See my BIOS pics below.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Here it shows memory at 1466Mhz (my ram is 1333MHZ) but increasing BUS increases the memory so I choose closest to 1333MHZ other wise I have to choose 1172Mhz





Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





Here only options I get for LLC on my boards



I need to turn on powersaving features on but not sure what exactly you turn on to keep 4.4GHZ and keep voltage around 1.41v.

Thanks


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldo9_r9*
> 
> Cheers Boss. I am stable at IBT and I ran prime for 4 hours and its stable. I could not find download IBTAVX/Linx using google search.


Here you go!
http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldo9_r9*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I am trying to overclock my FX4100 to stable 4.4GHZ. I have turned all of powersaving features off in BIOS and CPU LLC and CPU/NB LLC on auto. If i choose auto or disabled I get freezes and BSOD.
> 
> I have already tried multiplier method to overclock to 4.4 ghz that is running stable but I have read many comment where people use both multiplier and BUS method to overclock for even better performance.
> 
> I have now tried FBUS method of overclocking to see if its any better.
> 
> Please see CPUZ Validation here
> 
> I am running 4415.58 MHz (20 * 220.78 MHz) at 1.416 Volt. Temps are 64C for CPU and 57C for package temps. I ran IBT twice on very high and it came with message stable. I also noticed that when I increased BUS frequency to 220 Mhz ram overclock also from 1333 to 1429 (something like that)
> 
> here are my RAM results in CPUZ validation.
> 
> Size
> 16384 MB
> 
> Type
> DDR3-1471 - Dual Channel
> 
> Frequency
> 735.9 MHz (3:10)
> 
> Timings
> 11-11-11-28
> 
> I am little worried that in winter temp are this high. I switched the room heater on to keep room temps at 20c.
> 
> Below are results of temps etc running IBT test.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are these temps safe at that clock.
> 
> I have also read that you can enable cool and quiet etc on once pc is stable as per first post. For me to activate cool and quite I have to choose offset mode by doing that voltage and everything else change to auto. I opened CPUZ again and it choose voltage rang from 1.39v to 1.47v and it keeps going up and down depending on what I am doing on the pc. Where before manually setting voltage to 1.41v it stayed at that voltage.
> 
> Please advise which Power Saving features exactly I need to turn on this board/cpu to keep system stable.
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ronaldo9_r9*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Try this thread to start off with since I'm not that familiar with 4100's
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225268/amd-fx-4100-overclocking
> 
> There's so many variables with OC'ing because each Chip is different, because no piece of silicon is created equal what's good for one chip is different for another. there are people with 8350/9370 who are getting higher clocks than I am with less volts (9590).
> 
> Cooling is in my opinion the biggest factor, if you haven't sufficient cooling, all attempts at a decent clock will end in tears and in the end a fried chip or worse your whole system, keep your temps below 65C CPU and 60C core, lose HWMonitor in my experience it misreports true temperatures by 10 degrees, and download HWInfo64, it offers a far greater range of monitoring options
> 
> Put LLC on 75% (CPU & NB)
> 
> I like to keep Ram on stock frequencies & voltages while overclocking, you can always OC Ram later once you have a rock solid stable clock
> 
> You already have powersavings off:thumb:
> 
> Others have said that it's a good thing to manually input voltages, clear CMOS, go into BIOS and manually input each individual voltage rather than leaving everything Auto, my Rig hates this, yours may like it, again each chip is different
> 
> IBTAVX is your friend, standard IBT will pass even though it is unstable, download IBTAVX/Linx and run a minimum of 10 runs custom (80% Ram), then run P95 overnight
> 
> There are others here who are well more versed than I am that would be more than happy to help, hope this helps you out.
> 
> My
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Happy Clocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers Boss. I am stable at IBT and I ran prime for 4 hours and its stable. I could not find download IBTAVX/Linx using google search.
> 
> I have a different motherboard (Asus M5A97 LE R2.0) that does not give options like Put LLC on 75% (CPU & NB). Only option I get is to either enable,disable or auto.
> 
> Please See my BIOS pics below.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here it shows memory at 1466Mhz (my ram is 1333MHZ) but increasing BUS increases the memory so I choose closest to 1333MHZ other wise I have to choose 1172Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here only options I get for LLC on my boards
> 
> 
> 
> I need to turn on powersaving features on but not sure what exactly you turn on to keep 4.4GHZ and keep voltage around 1.41v.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...





i never owned that board but i have both the CVFz and saberkitty
the saberkitty is the only one i have not had vdrop on the ram i recommend bumping it ( hit the "+" ) 2 times

with that said i noticed you mentioned not finding ibtavx in my sig in the spoiler goto the 83xx club and in the opening post there is a download link

i recommend you download and use HWinfo as you are missing several volts i think ( all my asus show alot more then you are being shown ) and i dont think that is accurate as it looks to be looking at the voltage in bios rather then actual vcore

secondly the main volts you DO NOT want to leave on auto ( Vcore, cpu/nb ) but the rest are fine, excluding the below

bump cpu/nb +.1v ( you already did )
bump NB +.1v ( i did not see )

the high temps are because you put LLC on Auto and due to this it is using extreme and overvolting, you should be fine at High or Ultra, personally i would be willing to bet high is all you need.

i would be willing to bet you are not getting any boost using fsb only. and if you ever oc the FSB you need to lock the pcie freq. down @ 100mghz you can corrupt your hdd/sdd if you dont ( you can oc this but it is not recommended and most people who oc only recommend a MAX of +10mghz )

the powersaving features are only activated with offset not manual, ( your pc may downclock without it, but you wont downvolt as well. )
cnq will downclock and if using offset downvolt the cpu
apm will let the pc "Turbo" and may do other things, the negative side is @~40c core the CPU will throttle and 72c socket the cpu will throttle. ( keeps cpu within thermal limits )
HPC - stops CPU throttle @ core temp with apm on, however pc will still throttle if socket temp is reached.
c1e&c6 are related to sleep and other things, idk i just leave then on or off as i only ever turn on or off all powersaving at the same time whether or not i am benching

with that said your ram is really limiting you. i would upgrade if i were you to at least 1866 when you can. i would stick to multi oc until you are much more comfortable with ocing ( more experience ) as you are not getting any additional effect excluding the fact you oced your ram which may not be stable.

ibt ( regular ) will not stress the cpu enough and will not heat up the cpu alot to find stability.


----------



## ronaldo9_r9

@Mega Man. My motherboard does not have options to set LLC on extreme etc. I can only choose from auto, disable and enable. I will try to find the link for ibt avx and test in the morning.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mega Man

ah, then ... we will need others with your mobo to chime in


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

How hard a limit is 62C core temp? I'm pushing, when BOINC is running full-blast, nearly 66C after some time. I've downclocked from 4600 to 4200MHz too and it has not done much. How much would up to 66C for 72 hours damage anything? I guess I can take of the side-panel if need be.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> How hard a limit is 62C core temp? I'm pushing, when BOINC is running full-blast, nearly 66C after some time. I've downclocked from 4600 to 4200MHz too and it has not done much. How much would up to 66C for 72 hours damage anything? I guess I can take of the side-panel if need be.


General consensus is 62c however with AMD overdrive now showing temp till max temp it is now 75c so pick your choice.. To be honest I personally think you are find however as all overclocking is concerned do so at your own risk


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Lolwut? +13C limit?  Um. Well in that case, it's back to 4.6GHz when I get around to it today and BOINCing for the next 72 hours plus ~10 hours when I'm sleeping an can't turn anything off.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Lolwut? +13C limit?  Um. Well in that case, it's back to 4.6GHz when I get around to it today and BOINCing for the next 72 hours plus ~10 hours when I'm sleeping an can't turn anything off.


Yeah lol at least on newer amd chips


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

Which would mean Kaveri, but not necessarily Richland/Trinity or Vishera. I don't think that a smaller chip could handle a higher temperature necessarily, though that's just 4nm smaller.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> Which would mean Kaveri, but not necessarily Richland/Trinity or Vishera. I don't think that a smaller chip could handle a higher temperature necessarily, though that's just 4nm smaller.


Starting with AMD OverDrive Ver 4.3.1.0690 instead of displaying CPU temperature, AOD will report
Thermal Margin. Thermal Margin indicates how far the current operating temperature is below the
maximum operating temperature of the processor.

http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_OverDrive_Utility_AMD.COM_Release_Notes.pdf

With that being said if you install overdrive and watch the max temp you will see a bigger thermal limit.. odd I know

*AMD does have a disclaimer though stating that all overclock even with Overdrive can void warranty.. but you know how that is


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

I'm peaking at a thermal margin of 1.5C. That's not great but it's within the rating.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> How hard a limit is 62C core temp? I'm pushing, when BOINC is running full-blast, nearly 66C after some time. I've downclocked from 4600 to 4200MHz too and it has not done much. How much would up to 66C for 72 hours damage anything? I guess I can take of the side-panel if need be.


It will most likely just shorten the chip's lifespan. And maybe cause some instability.

Like F3ERS 2 ASH3S said: it is always your own risk. If you feel fine running it above the "recommended" max temp go ahead.
The chip will probably need to be replaced well before it's lifespan is over anyway...


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

My issue was lessened by removing the side panel and solved by killing the GPU miner. Mining sucks. That was ~250W of GPU spitting out heat. I haven't exceeded the limit since then, best I can tell anyway. It has gotten close though, but this is back at 4.6GHz @ 1.4625V as opposed to 4.2GHz @ 1.4375V (probably too high but I know it works and didn't want to bother with stability testing).


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> My issue was lessened by removing the side panel and solved by killing the GPU miner. Mining sucks. That was ~250W of GPU spitting out heat. I haven't exceeded the limit since then, best I can tell anyway. It has gotten close though, but this is back at 4.6GHz @ 1.4625V as opposed to 4.2GHz @ 1.4375V (probably too high but I know it works and didn't want to bother with stability testing).


Me I push 1.7v 24/7 on my chip


----------



## CynicalUnicorn

You're also liquid cooling. I have considered; how many rads are you running? "Be careful" goes without saying with that much heat and voltage, but hey. You overclocked your way to a 9590.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Me I push 1.7v 24/7 on my chip


Meh

i cant go beyond 1.7 board doesnt seem to like it


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CynicalUnicorn*
> 
> You're also liquid cooling. I have considered; how many rads are you running? "Be careful" goes without saying with that much heat and voltage, but hey. You overclocked your way to a 9590.


Just 1 240 rad... I need more but I have a cool chip that eats volts and doesn't clock too high
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Meh
> 
> i cant go beyond 1.7 board doesnt seem to like it


We have the same board. Turn off the voltage monitor in bios on the monitoring tab


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Me I push 1.7v 24/7 on my chip


What temps do you run at?

I am about to do my first custom loop with my fx-8320.

XSPC Raystorm block
MCP655 pump w/ EK x-top
360 UT60 rad.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What temps do you run at?
> 
> I am about to do my first custom loop with my fx-8320.
> 
> XSPC Raystorm block
> MCP655 pump w/ EK x-top
> 360 UT60 rad.


Wile gaming at 5.1 on those volts I get 65-70c with spikes to 75-77c bit hot


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

At it again with my FX-6100. My current highest is 4GHz, trying to push 4.1. Seems I have the temp headroom for it, even if I add 5C that summertime will add. I don't have another PC of any kind so I can't be at it 24/7 though, so for now I saved my "stable on 5 out of 6 cores" OC @ 4.1GHz in a profile and went back to stock until nighttime when I can leave it stability testing. A higher clock on this chip would really work nice paired with my new 280X.








I noticed the guide said HTT defaults to 2600, mine is at 2000. Why? Could I simply increase it to 2600 as is or do I have to bump the voltage? Also, what is the best way to stress test CPU-NB and HTT? I'm using Prime95 and IBT AVX for my CPU.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Wile gaming at 5.1 on those volts I get 65-70c with spikes to 75-77c bit hot


1.7 volts for only 5.1ghz?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 1.7 volts for only 5.1ghz?


yup chip hates me lol


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> yup chip hates me lol


Don't feel too bad ... I don't need quite that much VCore for 5.1 (1.6V) but ... $#@&%$# Vishera ... 1.6 isn't enough for a couple clocks (+1 FSB with 25.5 multi) over 5.1 to pass a full 10 passes of IBT AVX on max (usually passes the first 5 or 7 then craps) which I really thought it would. Pretty much the same effect at 5.3 too - it'll pass a few IBT AVX'ers and start crashing out. Tried BF4 and it crashed twice after about 20 minutes of gameplay

Might have to try this 1.7V thing if my core thermals don't go crazy. Going from 1.56 to 1.6 didn't have much of an effect on core temps, which was surprising to me. VRMs are under water of course to be trying this stuff


----------



## Gabynator

my cpu is finally stable at 1.5v cpu and 1.31 cpu/nb with 2400 mhz ram 16go at 4.9 ghz 8350 fx


----------



## Mega Man

although not impossible those volts look pretty low


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> although not impossible those volts look pretty low


4.9ghz with 1.5v isn't THAT low, right?
Seems doable to me.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> 4.9ghz with 1.5v isn't THAT low, right?
> Seems doable to me.


i run 4.9 at 1.50


----------



## Mega Man

possible, yes but i always want proof !


----------



## Gabynator

finally at 1.506v fail after 10 hours on prime95 blend so i add +1 notch for 1.512v and bring down cpu/nb to 1.306volts

i heard 12 hours on blend is pretty much a stable pc for gamers maybe not for extremist

put kraken x60 to 100% speed and top temperature is 69 cpu and 59 packages


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabynator*
> 
> finally at 1.506v fail after 10 hours on prime95 blend so i add +1 notch for 1.512v and bring down cpu/nb to 1.306volts
> 
> i heard 12 hours on blend is pretty much a stable pc for gamers maybe not for extremist
> 
> put kraken x60 to 100% speed and top temperature is 69 cpu and 59 packages


more or less ******* @ 90% memory useage !!!!!!!!!! *********


----------



## Gabynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> more or less ******* @ 90% memory useage !!!!!!!!!! *********


13500 memory usage


----------



## marcellocamargo

Hey guys, what voltage should i use to get a stable 4.7Ghz on my fx8120+asus m5a78L-m/usb3? i just cant get it stable =(


----------



## Archea47

Keep an eye on your vrm temperatures with HWINFO64. Where are you now for voltage?


----------



## marcellocamargo

im at auto voltage


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcellocamargo*
> 
> im at auto voltage


Unfortunately that motherboard is very limited in the way of voltage regulator cooling (none it appears)










I was going to suggest setting vcore voltage to 1.5V and see if you could work down from there but with that motherboard that could be dangerous

Unless you are absolutely restricted by size and budget I would throttle back the O/C until you get a board more suitable for overclocking


----------



## marcellocamargo

yeah, i know. i'm using a fan cooler on top of the voltage regulator


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcellocamargo*
> 
> yeah, i know. i'm using a fan cooler on top of the voltage regulator


You can look at picking up copper heatsinks to individually apply to the VRMs (the small chips above the socket in the picture I posted), which should help and make your fan more effective. Personally I would do that before moving forward

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g40/c16/s1859/list/p1/Air_Cooling-Chipset_HeatsinksCoolers-Mosfet_Chipsink-Page1.html
(use the discount code OCN when checking out for 5.1% off)

Do you have HWINFO64 up and running yet? You might get a warning about using the sensor on the ASUS mobo - as long as you aren't using AISUite you can disregard and use that sensor (it will give the vrm temps we're looking for)

I'd hate to give you a number to set vcore to without knowing where you are currently for voltage and what temperatures your core/package and vrms (vcore-2 in my experience on ASUS mobos). Can you post your current temperatures and voltages during full load?


----------



## jason387

Could a core give errors and fail during prime 95 due to low cou nb voltage?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Could a core give errors and fail during prime 95 due to low cou nb voltage?


yes


----------



## jason387

Is 4.4Ghz on the FX 6300 at 1.368v during p95 a good overclock?


----------



## marcellocamargo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> You can look at picking up copper heatsinks to individually apply to the VRMs (the small chips above the socket in the picture I posted), which should help and make your fan more effective. Personally I would do that before moving forward
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g40/c16/s1859/list/p1/Air_Cooling-Chipset_HeatsinksCoolers-Mosfet_Chipsink-Page1.html
> (use the discount code OCN when checking out for 5.1% off)
> 
> Do you have HWINFO64 up and running yet? You might get a warning about using the sensor on the ASUS mobo - as long as you aren't using AISUite you can disregard and use that sensor (it will give the vrm temps we're looking for)
> 
> I'd hate to give you a number to set vcore to without knowing where you are currently for voltage and what temperatures your core/package and vrms (vcore-2 in my experience on ASUS mobos). Can you post your current temperatures and voltages during full load?


my temperature at full load is around 41º, 46º, this is good, right? my vcore is set to auto, is going around 1.38
i wanted at list 4.6Ghz


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcellocamargo*
> 
> my temperature at full load is around 41º, 46º, this is good, right? my vcore is set to auto, is going around 1.38
> i wanted at list 4.6Ghz


On my Asus board if I leave the vcore in auto and overclock, the vcore is automatically adjusted. Set it to either manual (CnC turns off) or use offset voltages.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcellocamargo*
> 
> my temperature at full load is around 41º, 46º, this is good, right? my vcore is set to auto, is going around 1.38
> i wanted at list 4.6Ghz


In the 40s is great - 62*C is the limit for these chips. What clock was that at?

What about VRM temperatures though? Can you see those in HWInfo64?

If you're still at 4.7GHz 1.38V sounds awfully low in reference to my 8350 (though all chips are different). I ran 1.5+V at 4.8Ghz to get my system IBT AVX stable. I don't think it would be wise to raise your voltage that high though without more VRM cooling and seeing the temperatures


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marcellocamargo*
> 
> Hey guys, what voltage should i use to get a stable 4.7Ghz on my fx8120+asus m5a78L-m/usb3? i just cant get it stable =(


answer, you shouldnt get a new mobo if you want to


----------



## dsr07mm

Hey,

I had M5A97 R2.0 and I couldnt overclock more then 4.1 on FX8350. Yesterday I got my new M5A99FX PRO 2.0 and seems better but as soon as I change voltage from auto to any (1.380 example) my temperatures are going so freaking high over 60c. On stock voltage is 1.280 and temperature 48c. I followed everything from guide. I'm lost.


----------



## link1393

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> I had M5A97 R2.0 and I couldnt overclock more then 4.1 on FX8350. Yesterday I got my new M5A99FX PRO 2.0 and seems better but as soon as I change voltage from auto to any (1.380 example) my temperatures are going so freaking high over 60c. On stock voltage is 1.280 and temperature 48c. I followed everything from guide. I'm lost.


What is your CPU cooler ?


----------



## dsr07mm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> What is your CPU cooler ?


EVO212. I do know what I can expect from him, to be honest OS is stable at 4.5 I played BF4/ CSGO and even Witcher 2 for couple hours without any issues and no overheating. It's something related to voltage definitely. On old board on 1.45 I had little bit over 62c in short tests but I always had core failures or BSODS after couple seconds.

I didnt said that here, but I changed my FX8350 when I had issue with being unable to OC, I changed memory, I also changed new PSU and yesterday new motherboard and small upgrade from 7950 to GTX770 for couple bucks with free game. I doubt that is hardware issue. I have 3 fans inside my case, at rear to get everything from evo, on top (1cm away from EVO212) and on side for GPU. Airflow shouldnt be a problem. Also I cant get stable voltage even with this guide. When I get 1.404 system is fine but temperature is high, when I add one + to that voltage it's still same or it's even going lower.


----------



## link1393

With a EVO 212 you can go higher than 4.1-4.2 or the temp will increase very quickly.


----------



## dsr07mm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *link1393*
> 
> With a EVO 212 you can go higher than 4.1-4.2 or the temp will increase very quickly.


\

I'm pretty positive that people are being able to OC with EVO212 at least on 4.5-4.6 depending on what vcore is required. As I said before changing motherboard even on 1.44 I was able to have 60c max temperatures in Prime95, now I cant have those even with 1.380. I suspect that it's something related to LLC but I cant be sure so if anyone have suggestion I would appreciate.


----------



## link1393

Yes some reaxh it, but for me that doesn't work.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> \
> 
> I'm pretty positive that people are being able to OC with EVO212 at least on 4.5-4.6 depending on what vcore is required. As I said before changing motherboard even on 1.44 I was able to have 60c max temperatures in Prime95, now I cant have those even with 1.380. I suspect that it's something related to LLC but I cant be sure so if anyone have suggestion I would appreciate.


Most get 4.3 - 4.4 don't expect too much as soon as you raise any volts that is where it ends


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Most get 4.3 - 4.4 don't expect too much as soon as you raise any volts that is where it ends


Quoted for truth

Evo sux


----------



## dsr07mm

So which one would you recommend me ? First thing first, I'm from Serbia so ordering from outside of country would cost me 50% more and I cant afford that. Also I'm not very good with coolers so I will give you a link with 5 water coolers, if any of those is good tell me and I'm ordering immidietely. Otherwise I will need to wait from that company to get new since I can get whatever I want there on my card in couple monthly rates.

http://www.winwin.rs/racunari-i-komponente/racunarske-komponente/hladnjaci-ventilatori-i-oprema.html?kompatibilnost_filter=56880

Hopefully you can help me.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> So which one would you recommend me ? First thing first, I'm from Serbia so ordering from outside of country would cost me 50% more and I cant afford that. Also I'm not very good with coolers so I will give you a link with 5 water coolers, if any of those is good tell me and I'm ordering immidietely. Otherwise I will need to wait from that company to get new since I can get whatever I want there on my card in couple monthly rates.
> 
> http://www.winwin.rs/racunari-i-komponente/racunarske-komponente/hladnjaci-ventilatori-i-oprema.html?kompatibilnost_filter=56880
> 
> Hopefully you can help me.


http://www.winwin.rs/racunari-i-komponente/racunarske-komponente/hladnjaci-ventilatori-i-oprema/cpu-hladnjak-1150-1155-2011-am3-fm2-cooler-master-nepton-280l-rl-n28l-20pk-r1-1187713.html

Is the best option Add two more fans for push/pull you should be set for a bit you should be able to hit 4.8 maybe 4.9 with that which would be almost the boards max

http://www.overclockersclub.com/reviews/cooler_masster_nepton_280l/6.htm

You may also be interested in a double tower air cooler but if you do that you would need quality


----------



## dsr07mm

That should be possible in this case

http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001578

?

Thanks for recommendation. Confirm this and I'm going to order this. I7 4770k with casual clock sometime in future will be good aswel ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> That should be possible in this case
> 
> http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/products-model.aspx?id=C_00001578
> 
> ?
> 
> Thanks for recommendation. Confirm this and I'm going to order this. I7 4770k with casual clock sometime in future will be good aswel ?


It should work however if you mount it on top you may need to mount fans on the out side of the case if you want push pull


----------



## ludespeedny

I am having issues with the fsb. Any time I raise the fsb I can get it stable and run occt for 2+ hrs without issue.
The problem is that when it goes into sleep mode in Win 7 it never fully goes down and have to fully power off, unplug the power, plug it back in and boot into bios.
Does anyone know what is going on?

I am running a FX-6300 w/ hyper 212 Evo on an Asus M5a99x Evo r2.0.


----------



## dsr07mm

Is push/pull really making huge difference ? Personally I would like to run FX8350 at least 4.5 and 4.6/4.7 would be premium for me, but once when I upgrade to i7 I wouldnt like to have this EVO212 again, so this Nepton will be fine fo casual overclock even then ? If It's doable it's not a problem to put fans over case, case is under table on cold place anyways.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> I am having issues with the fsb. Any time I raise the fsb I can get it stable and run occt for 2+ hrs without issue.
> The problem is that when it goes into sleep mode in Win 7 it never fully goes down and have to fully power off, unplug the power, plug it back in and boot into bios.
> Does anyone know what is going on?
> 
> I am running a FX-6300 w/ hyper 212 Evo on an Asus M5a99x Evo r2.0.


RAM possibly, what frequency do they go to when you FSB clock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> Is push/pull really making huge difference ? Personally I would like to run FX8350 at least 4.5 and 4.6/4.7 would be premium for me, but once when I upgrade to i7 I wouldnt like to have this EVO212 again, so this Nepton will be fine fo casual overclock even then ? If It's doable it's not a problem to put fans over case, case is under table on cold place anyways.


It would make a difference about 3-7c depending on.. that cooler would do your expected clocks just fine.


----------



## ludespeedny

trying to keep it at 1866 so fsb of 280 I run it at 1866 and fsb of 276 is pretty close to 1866 speeds.
I manually set my ram timings and voltage for my ram's 1866 speeds (g.skill sniper 2x4gb sticks).


----------



## dsr07mm

Ok so I clearly have a winner. I will order in only couple minutes one of those.

Anyways can there be a explanation why I'm getting so high temperatures on 1.380 voltage ? It's CM paste, I checked twice is EVO212 placed correctly while before on 1.44 I had decreased temperatures. It's just weird, nothing more.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> trying to keep it at 1866 so fsb of 280 I run it at 1866 and fsb of 276 is pretty close to 1866 speeds.
> I manually set my ram timings and voltage for my ram's 1866 speeds (g.skill sniper 2x4gb sticks).


I would need to see BIOS screenies to really help but if its not ram it could be nb or HT, I normally do a mid FSB over clock with the rest on the multiplier to relieve stress on the other components. it also could be a FSB dead spot but sounds like something is under volted
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> Ok so I clearly have a winner. I will order in only couple minutes one of those.
> 
> Anyways can there be a explanation why I'm getting so high temperatures on 1.380 voltage ? It's CM paste, I checked twice is EVO212 placed correctly while before on 1.44 I had decreased temperatures. It's just weird, nothing more.


could have been bumped or paste isn't good.. not sure exactly


----------



## dsr07mm

Checked twice it's fine. It's only changing due to voltage.

By the way Cooler Master Nepton 280L has 140mm fans, my case has 2 spots for 120mm fans at the top. Could that be a issue ?

One more time this is my case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133094

I wouldnt like to buy this and then have issues because company sucks with returning money and so on. One small confirmation and you guys are lifesavers.


----------



## ludespeedny

Not sure if this helps, ubt if not I'll try to get bios screens when I get home. Here is my running OCCT test: http://i.imgur.com/X4N1zGz.png

What would you recommend as a mid fsb overclock that will let me run my ram in spec?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I would need to see BIOS screenies to really help but if its not ram it could be nb or HT, I normally do a mid FSB over clock with the rest on the multiplier to relieve stress on the other components. it also could be a FSB dead spot but sounds like something is under volted
> could have been bumped or paste isn't good.. not sure exactly


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> Checked twice it's fine. It's only changing due to voltage.
> 
> By the way Cooler Master Nepton 280L has 140mm fans, my case has 2 spots for 120mm fans at the top. Could that be a issue ?
> 
> One more time this is my case http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811133094
> 
> I wouldnt like to buy this and then have issues because company sucks with returning money and so on. One small confirmation and you guys are lifesavers.


ooo I didnt notice that.. yes that would be a major issue unless you wanted to punch holes in your case
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Not sure if this helps, ubt if not I'll try to get bios screens when I get home. Here is my running OCCT test: http://i.imgur.com/X4N1zGz.png
> 
> What would you recommend as a mid fsb overclock that will let me run my ram in spec?


230-250


----------



## dsr07mm

What about this ? http://www.winwin.rs/racunari-i-komponente/racunarske-komponente/hladnjaci-ventilatori-i-oprema/cpu-hladnjak-1150-am3-fm2-cooler-master-eisberg-prestige-120l-rl-eb12-16fk-r1-1171515.html

Or something like this which is literally free for 70$ ? http://www.winwin.rs/racunari-i-komponente/racunarske-komponente/hladnjaci-ventilatori-i-oprema/cpu-hladnjak-1150-1155-2011-am3-fm2-cooler-master-seidon-120v-rl-s12v-24pk-r1-1180003.html

Better then EVO212 ?


----------



## ludespeedny

Ok, I'll try that later.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

I think I've hit the thermal limit of my FX-6100. 4.1GHz @ 1.38v, max socket temp 67C. Not much room to push 4.2GHz. It wasn't the easiest journey (killed a PSU, then had RAM instability for like 6 months) but finally got it done. Many thanks for the guide, thanks to all who helped (you probably don't remember though







). CPU-Z link:
http://valid.canardpc.com/dag41n
Feel free to comment on how my clock/voltage/temp relation is, cause I have no idea what would be a good result.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsr07mm*
> 
> What about this ? http://www.winwin.rs/racunari-i-komponente/racunarske-komponente/hladnjaci-ventilatori-i-oprema/cpu-hladnjak-1150-am3-fm2-cooler-master-eisberg-prestige-120l-rl-eb12-16fk-r1-1171515.html
> 
> Or something like this which is literally free for 70$ ? http://www.winwin.rs/racunari-i-komponente/racunarske-komponente/hladnjaci-ventilatori-i-oprema/cpu-hladnjak-1150-1155-2011-am3-fm2-cooler-master-seidon-120v-rl-s12v-24pk-r1-1180003.html
> 
> Better then EVO212 ?


While they might be better I wouldn't expect them to be significantly better. I could be wrong - I've never tried a system that small

You were looking at the Cooler Master 280L before right? What about the CoolerMaster Glacer 240L? http://www.legitreviews.com/cooler-master-glacer-240l-expandable-liquid-cooler-review_135211


----------



## ludespeedny

Here's my bios screens
http://i.imgur.com/5VxpMnv.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/b4GyelY.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/OzJAIMc.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/PpeaS8a.jpg


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Here's my bios screens
> http://i.imgur.com/5VxpMnv.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/b4GyelY.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/OzJAIMc.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/PpeaS8a.jpg


In Digi option

Up CPU voltage frequency
Up Power response control
Up CPU/nb Power response control


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> In Digi option
> 
> Up CPU voltage frequency
> Up Power response control
> Up CPU/nb Power response control


Hey, I would really appreciate if you could go into detail on these. Both recommended values for 5+ GHz and what they actually do


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Hey, I would really appreciate if you could go into detail on these. Both recommended values for 5+ GHz and what they actually do


I will show you mine keep in mind that I eased up into this should do the samw


----------



## ludespeedny

OK I upped what you recommended, here are some images:
http://i.imgur.com/LkWd43K.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/8jJ3vBC.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/U8iO7UK.jpg

Do my values look good or should I go higher?

It will go into standby now, but occt fails with errors. Should I up the voltage on the cpu? I ran the multi at 19 and 18.5 and got occt errors


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> OK I upped what you recommended, here are some images:
> http://i.imgur.com/LkWd43K.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/8jJ3vBC.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/U8iO7UK.jpg
> 
> Do my values look good or should I go higher?
> 
> It will go into standby now, but occt fails with errors. Should I up the voltage on the cpu? I ran the multi at 19 and 18.5 and got occt errors


put vrm frequency at 320 to 350


----------



## ludespeedny

Thanks, I'll give it a shot tonight.


----------



## ludespeedny

when at 233 fsb and 19x multi, the cpu stays about 4.0 and jumps bit but doesnt stay at high speeds, any idea why?
http://i.imgur.com/MAN68Rl.png


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> when at 233 fsb and 19x multi, the cpu stays about 4.0 and jumps bit but doesnt stay at high speeds, any idea why?
> http://i.imgur.com/MAN68Rl.png


APM

Also if you watch in CPUz you will see that the bus goes up and down 0.01 to 0.1


----------



## ludespeedny

How come it never hits the 4.3 that I set then? I only have an issue at that multi and fsb. Seems odd.


----------



## ludespeedny

Just a thought, I have AI Suite II installed. Should I remove that, is it possible that is interfering?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Just a thought, I have AI Suite II installed. Should I remove that, is it possible that is interfering?


It does depend.. For instance it reads CPU socket and not CPU core so if you have a high socket temp it will shut the system down There are a few other bugs too but that is the biggest one
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> How come it never hits the 4.3 that I set then? I only have an issue at that multi and fsb. Seems odd.


v

It could be APM or the c state.. There are multiple factors however what I have all told you should help you get that better OC on it.


----------



## sb23rd

Cast my vote with a 'Yes' for this threads poll and now I can happily post my results.

Yesterday I finally upgraded my Corsair HX-650 to another Corsair, this time the AX760i. I noticed in the last couple of months (since adding a second gpu) some odd and unbecoming behavior coming from my gaming rig. Games would stutter, there'd be random glitches and graphic corruption and similar behavior not suited for what I think is a fairly decent rig. Anyway long story short, the new PSU has eliminated all that.

I decided to spend a considerable amount of time going through Google to gather information so I could finally tweak my PC properly. Hence me now posting here. After much playing around, I've reached a personal sweet spot. Acceptable temps for a decent OC.

I admit it is tricky and somewhat daunting attempting to OC without doing considerable digging. I'm currently sitting on 4.5 Ghz @ 1.32v (Offset mode + 0.050000). The only other voltage adjustment was to set the RAM to 1.5v. Before the PSU upgrade I had the same OC of 4.5 but had the vcore set at manual (1.365 iirc). I've noticed a temp drop of about 5c by using offset mode. I'm sitting in my room now, with a good ambient temp of around 25c (perhaps under because air con was on). Core temp is 15c and socket temp is 34c.

All power saving features are off. LLC set to High, Capability both @ 130%. NB @ 2400, HT @ 2400 <--- this gives me no errors running OCCT compared to a HT @ 2600. HPC Mode is enabled. I'm fairly happy now, with the new PSU I can now safely OC my GPU's free of any graphical corruption and instability.

Many thanks to this thread and all its contributors.


----------



## ludespeedny

So my board absolutely refuses a fsb overclock, but I think it is the nb/ht speeds. I decreased them to about 2300 and at last can go for 10 min stable. I'll keep going and see what happens.
at a fsb of 233 what is a good speed to set the nb/ht values to? do you get any speed increase if the ht speed is higher. example: If I have the nb at 2300 and the ht at 2500 would I see better performance than if had them matched?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

You can run them independently

2400 NB and 2600 HT is about normal. HT is only good to clock higher if you have multiple GPUs


----------



## ludespeedny

Ok. When running the last test it failed with a "Sensor over max value" error
http://i.imgur.com/rwvOlFH.png
Is this a spike or should I be worried, or try again?
This is the first type of this error I have seen, and not sure what could have caused it.


----------



## Jaydev16

Can I use this as a guide to OCing on a Gigabyte?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Ok. When running the last test it failed with a "Sensor over max value" error
> http://i.imgur.com/rwvOlFH.png
> Is this a spike or should I be worried, or try again?
> This is the first type of this error I have seen, and not sure what could have caused it.


Looks like a false reading to me.
Please try again.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jaydev16*
> 
> Can I use this as a guide to OCing on a Gigabyte?


Sure.
Some settings might be a bit different in you bios. Just post it here if you have any questions.


----------



## Jaydev16

Thanks!


----------



## lddsys

Hello guys,

I know this is an Asus motherboard thread but couldn't find anything like for the gigabyte motherboards. Maybe you could help me.

I own a GA-990FXA-UD5 and an AMD FX-8350 and a custom water cooling loop (CPU and VGA only). Currently I'm stuck, because the multiplier and the vcore voltage drops while testing with prime. No problem for one-two minutes but then this happens: https://www.dropbox.com/s/28m68bmx3q6vtdc/2014-02-13%2023.34.46.mp4
No instability, no BSOD or anything, just this. Is this normal? Should I increase something? BIOS is the newest and I sticked with the recommended settings, and did only multiplier overclocking.

Thanks for your help! (or give me a thread for this kind of problem).


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I know this is an Asus motherboard thread but couldn't find anything like for the gigabyte motherboards. Maybe you could help me.
> 
> I own a GA-990FXA-UD5 and an AMD FX-8350 and a custom water cooling loop (CPU and VGA only). Currently I'm stuck, because the multiplier and the vcore voltage drops while testing with prime. No problem for one-two minutes but then this happens: https://www.dropbox.com/s/28m68bmx3q6vtdc/2014-02-13%2023.34.46.mp4
> No instability, no BSOD or anything, just this. Is this normal? Should I increase something? BIOS is the newest and I sticked with the recommended settings, and did only multiplier overclocking.
> 
> Thanks for your help! (or give me a thread for this kind of problem).


Just a wild guess.
Did you disable all the power saving features? c&c, c1, c6, apm....

It really looks like power saving as both the voltage and the multiplier drop. It sure isn't throttling as your temps are fine.

But please stop uploading movies with your phone. It hurts my eyes.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Just a wild guess.
> Did you disable all the power saving features? c&c, c1, c6, apm....
> 
> It really looks like power saving as both the voltage and the multiplier drop. It sure isn't throttling as your temps are fine.
> 
> But please stop uploading movies with your phone. It hurts my eyes.


Yes, I disabled the power saving features: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gndvpgttnrmjt98/2014-02-16%2018.21.48.jpg

Sorry, the dropbox live-preview is so "great", compressed the **** out of it.... This is a FULL HD clip captured with my Galaxy S3... if you download it the quality is just fine.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Yes, I disabled the power saving features: https://www.dropbox.com/s/gndvpgttnrmjt98/2014-02-16%2018.21.48.jpg
> 
> Sorry, the dropbox live-preview is so "great", compressed the **** out of it.... This is a FULL HD clip captured with my Galaxy S3... if you download it the quality is just fine.


Try disabling core performance boost and setting the frequency manually. Or do you want to use boost?
Also you can disable SVM unless you are using a virtual machine.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Try disabling core performance boost and setting the frequency manually. Or do you want to use boost?
> Also you can disable SVM unless you are using a virtual machine.


Unfortunately I'm using virtual machines, so I have to enable that feature, but I don't think this is the problem.

I don't need the core performance boost, so I set it to the same multiplier as the core clock multiplier. The only reason I left it on is when I disable it my pc starts weirdly. After I press the power button it starts then halt then starts then halt then starts and then finally POST and boots.

But give me a minute, I'll try it out with the boost disabled.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Unfortunately I'm using virtual machines, so I have to enable that feature, but I don't think this is the problem.
> 
> I don't need the core performance boost, so I set it to the same multiplier as the core clock multiplier. The only reason I left it on is when I disable it my pc starts weirdly. After I press the power button it starts then halt then starts then halt then starts and then finally POST and boots.
> 
> But give me a minute, I'll try it out with the boost disabled.


I disabled it but nothing changed. The multi drops as before.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Unfortunately I'm using virtual machines, so I have to enable that feature, but I don't think this is the problem.
> 
> I don't need the core performance boost, so I set it to the same multiplier as the core clock multiplier. The only reason I left it on is when I disable it my pc starts weirdly. After I press the power button it starts then halt then starts then halt then starts and then finally POST and boots.
> 
> But give me a minute, I'll try it out with the boost disabled.
> 
> 
> 
> I disabled it but nothing changed. The multi drops as before.
Click to expand...

turn hpc on and try again


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> turn hpc on and try again


OK, I enabled hpc but unfortunately it is the same.


----------



## Melcar

Turbo boost off? Turn it off, don't eave it at auto. My chips acts the same way with it on.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Turbo boost off? Turn it off, don't eave it at auto. My chips acts the same way with it on.


Yes, core performance boost (turbo) off, but the drop remains.


----------



## Melcar

Have you tried checking with other monitoring software? Maybe it's just a software bug. Maybe.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Have you tried checking with other monitoring software? Maybe it's just a software bug. Maybe.


Yes. Now I'm running CPUID HWMonitor and it shows the drop aswell!







(at the exact same time)


----------



## Melcar

Run benchies and some games. If performance remains consistent then I wouldn't worry about it much. You get no errors in Prime right? Tested other stuff like OCCT yet?


----------



## lddsys

Guys. I think I found something. And maybe I'm az idiot.
In HWMonitor there is a TMPIN2 sensor at the Motherboard section. I haven't seen it until now, because AIDA64 or AMD Overdrive hasn't got this sensor.
When this sensor go over 60 celsius degree the drop happens. I think this is the cause of the throttle..... Is this the VRM? Where should I put some cooling?


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Guys. I think I found something. And maybe I'm az idiot.
> In HWMonitor there is a TMPIN2 sensor at the Motherboard section. I haven't seen it until now, because AIDA64 or AMD Overdrive hasn't got this sensor.
> When this sensor go over 60 celsius degree the drop happens. I think this is the cause of the throttle..... Is this the VRM? Where should I put some cooling?


Open up your case and touch the VRM heatsink under load. Shouldn't be too hot.


----------



## Melcar

I think on GB mobos the TMPIN2 sensor is located in the NB.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> I think on GB mobos the TMPIN2 sensor is located in the NB.


I second that.
At least on my gigabyte boards(paste 6 years or so) TMPIN2 was the Northbridge.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I second that.
> At least on my gigabyte boards(paste 6 years or so) TMPIN2 was the Northbridge.


Thank you, I figured it out, that TMPIN2 is the Northbridge so I installed a fan on the heatsink. The heatsink wasn't so hot.

For an hour maybe, it worked great, no throttle or anything, good temps: 20 celsius to the CPU thermal limit and the NB was 50-55. So I restarted my PC to tweak with the BIOS settings. I reduced the NB voltage and increased the VCore voltage to 1.45 maybe, and increased the multi to 24, restarted again, no problem. Prime was stable for 10 minutes, but then started being instable so I decided to restart. Bump! Can't start it back again







I think the motherboard went wrong.







No beep, no video output, no reaction to reset or power-off. CMOS reset isn't helping. Only the fans working, nothing else, no POST. So... yeah, bump. I have to call for an rma.
CPU, RAM, PSU works in another computer.

Thank you for your help!


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Thank you, I figured it out, that TMPIN2 is the Northbridge so I installed a fan on the heatsink. The heatsink wasn't so hot.
> 
> For an hour maybe, it worked great, no throttle or anything, good temps: 20 celsius to the CPU thermal limit and the NB was 50-55. So I restarted my PC to tweak with the BIOS settings. I reduced the NB voltage and increased the VCore voltage to 1.45 maybe, and increased the multi to 24, restarted again, no problem. Prime was stable for 10 minutes, but then started being instable so I decided to restart. Bump! Can't start it back again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think the motherboard went wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No beep, no video output, no reaction to reset or power-off. CMOS reset isn't helping. Only the fans working, nothing else, no POST. So... yeah, bump. I have to call for an rma.
> CPU, RAM, PSU works in another computer.
> 
> Thank you for your help!


Reset the bios with the reset key or power it down a couple times should come back


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Reset the bios with the reset key or power it down a couple times should come back


I reset the CMOS couple times and powered it down for like 20 times. No result. No video output, no beep, nothing. I waited for an hour, started back again, nothing happened.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> I reset the CMOS couple times and powered it down for like 20 times. No result. No video output, no beep, nothing. I waited for an hour, started back again, nothing happened.


Have you tried pulling the battery and resetting it that way?


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Have you tried pulling the battery and resetting it that way?


Yes, of course. But I think I was impatient, now I waited extra long time and voila: "Bios has been reset". Windows starts properly - for now...
I don't know what was that.
Thank you!


----------



## lddsys

Does anybody know what is the safe temperature for the NB sensor? With stock clock and voltage settings it is 11 celsius degree. (minimum 7, maximum 22).


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> I think I've hit the thermal limit of my FX-6100. 4.1GHz @ 1.38v, max socket temp 67C. Not much room to push 4.2GHz. It wasn't the easiest journey (killed a PSU, then had RAM instability for like 6 months) but finally got it done. Many thanks for the guide, thanks to all who helped (you probably don't remember though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ). CPU-Z link:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/dag41n
> Feel free to comment on how my clock/voltage/temp relation is, cause I have no idea what would be a good result.


I've got a FX-6100 and got it at 4.3 w/ same voltage 1.38 temps don't exceed 57c on prime.Seems you should be able to go higher with that voltage.


----------



## ludespeedny

Well, was able to get it to 4.4 with a fsb of 233 and voltage of 1.37. Ran OCCT for 2+ hrs no error. Put the computer in sleep mode for about 10 min and brought it back out to run more tests and occt showed the cpu speed jumping between 4.0 and 4.4 and then failed within a few minutes. Any ideas why it would?
If it is due to cpu throttling, what settings do you recommend to enable once a stable clock is found?


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Well, was able to get it to 4.4 with a fsb of 233 and voltage of 1.37. Ran OCCT for 2+ hrs no error. Put the computer in sleep mode for about 10 min and brought it back out to run more tests and occt showed the cpu speed jumping between 4.0 and 4.4 and then failed within a few minutes. Any ideas why it would?
> If it is due to cpu throttling, what settings do you recommend to enable once a stable clock is found?


I've found (at least with my board and this chip) it likes a multi OC and not fsb.Have you tried a straight multi with the OP's
guide?
What were your temps?


----------



## ludespeedny

Yeah, seems like my board doesn't like fsb. On multi I can get 4.3 stable, then if I go to 4.4 I can run occt fine for 2+ hrs then run it a little later and fails in a few minutes. Kinda seems like 4.3 is my limit.
my last run at 4.46 I got up to 67c and 57c socket and package respectively.
Will I notice a big difference between just multi vs fsb and multi?


----------



## waveaddict

I think it's more stable on just a multi tbh,I haven't changed any other voltages either.NB & HT are both set to 2600.










I might try to go to 4.4 but I'm pretty happy with the performance thus far,plus my board dose not have any VRM heatsinks.


----------



## Mega Man

heh i use 300fsb, 2700ht 3900ht, pretty sure they oc fsb withotu issue you may not be able to do it with that board but the chip can


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> Does anybody know what is the safe temperature for the NB sensor? With stock clock and voltage settings it is 11 celsius degree. (minimum 7, maximum 22).


Have a look here.
I don't have the time to read through the whole thread but maybe it can help you out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1161772/what-are-your-990fx-northbridge-temps


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Have a look here.
> I don't have the time to read through the whole thread but maybe it can help you out.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1161772/what-are-your-990fx-northbridge-temps


Thank you!


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> I've got a FX-6100 and got it at 4.3 w/ same voltage 1.38 temps don't exceed 57c on prime.Seems you should be able to go higher with that voltage.


What could be holding me back then? I followed everything on the guide, what should I try to change to get 4.3? I have voltage on manual, only changed vcore voltage, none of the others. Would it help if I set the other voltages manually rather than leaving them on auto?


----------



## lddsys

My results with FX-8350 & GA-990FXA-UD5 & water cooling: 4,8 Ghz @ 1,548 (HWMonitor). I think this is the limit of this setup. Unfortunately I got this from prime: "torture test completed 25 tests in 38 minutes - 0 errors, 100 warnings. worker stopped" So I stepped back to 4,7 Ghz. Currently testing.....

ps: I think the Motherboard TMPIN2 is the CPU temp because this is the exact same number as the AMD-FX8350 package temperature and the temperature provided by AIDA64 (at the CPU section): 57 celsius under load.... That's ridiculous.....









under load:
TMPIN0: 38
TMPIN1: 50
TMPIN2: 59


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> My results with FX-8350 & GA-990FXA-UD5 & water cooling: 4,8 Ghz @ 1,548 (HWMonitor). I think this is the limit of this setup. Unfortunately I got this from prime: "torture test completed 25 tests in 38 minutes - 0 errors, 100 warnings. worker stopped" So I stepped back to 4,7 Ghz. Currently testing.....
> 
> ps: I think the Motherboard TMPIN2 is the CPU temp because this is the exact same number as the AMD-FX8350 package temperature and the temperature provided by AIDA64 (at the CPU section): 57 celsius under load.... That's ridiculous.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under load:
> TMPIN0: 38
> TMPIN1: 50
> TMPIN2: 59


TMPIN1 is your CPU temp. TMPIN2 is your NB Temp and TMPIN0 is your mobo temp. Same for all gigabyte mobo's.


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> TMPIN1 is your CPU temp. TMPIN2 is your NB Temp and TMPIN0 is your mobo temp. Same for all gigabyte mobo's.


https://www.dropbox.com/s/9ge2q7xsaaks6nb/temp.png
Have a look.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/9ge2q7xsaaks6nb/temp.png
> Have a look.


The Thermal Margin in AMD Overdrive goes according to core temps which are a max of 70c. Download HW Info, there you will see that CPU temps correspond to TMPIN1 and not TMPIN2.


----------



## Flamingo

So Ive been following the steps in the original post and after setting all the Digi and BIOS options:
Quote:


> Load and run Prime95 Small FFT for 10 Minutes.
> 
> If no Cores Fail, then increase another point on the CPU Ratio and run Prime95 again.
> If a Core Fails then increase the CPU Manual Voltage one point and run Prime95 again.
> If your system Freezes or BSOD, then reduce you CPU Ratio by one point and run Prime95 again.
> If your system Freezes or BSOD after increasing the CPU Ratio by one point then increase your CPU Manual Voltage by three points and run Prime95 again.


Atm, I started off with 200x23 = 4600Mhz with 1.38V vcore (which was the default).

One of the core failed in prime95 once, increased the Vcore 1 step. Failed again and again until it reached 1.4V. (was different cores)

Now at 1.4V and 4.6Ghz one of the cores it still failed. Note the temperatures though. The CPU/Socket temp is already above 70C which is the limit according to the thread.









Quote:


> HW Monitor -
> Package Temps, aka Core Temp (62C Max)
> *CPU Temp, aka Socket Temp (70C Max)*


My cooling is a Coolermaster Seidon 120M (yeah it aint the best), but I got 2x Gentle typhoons on the radiator.

Should I keep increasing the vcore @ 4.6Ghz?

It is stable at 1.38V and 4.5Ghz. But that isnt much of an overclock lol. Also max temps at is 75C at 4.5ghz, but its prime so I dont need to worry. For gaming its usually lower.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> My results with FX-8350 & GA-990FXA-UD5 & water cooling: 4,8 Ghz @ 1,548 (HWMonitor). I think this is the limit of this setup. Unfortunately I got this from prime: "torture test completed 25 tests in 38 minutes - 0 errors, 100 warnings. worker stopped" So I stepped back to 4,7 Ghz. Currently testing.....
> 
> ps: I think the Motherboard TMPIN2 is the CPU temp because this is the exact same number as the AMD-FX8350 package temperature and the temperature provided by AIDA64 (at the CPU section): 57 celsius under load.... That's ridiculous.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> under load:
> TMPIN0: 38
> TMPIN1: 50
> TMPIN2: 59


Like jason387 told you: TMPIN2 is the NB temp.

I have a hard time believing 4.8 will be your max with your current setup.

Can you take a screenshot of a prime smallFFTs run(10minutes) monitored with HWinfo64?


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Like jason387 told you: TMPIN2 is the NB temp.
> 
> I have a hard time believing 4.8 will be your max with your current setup.
> 
> Can you take a screenshot of a prime smallFFTs run(10minutes) monitored with HWinfo64?


If I increase the multiplier then prime workers fail. Now I'm testing with 4,7 Ghz, this is the optimal setup for my cooling configuration because sometimes the thermal margin is only 5 celsius degrees.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> The Thermal Margin in AMD Overdrive goes according to core temps which are a max of 70c. Download HW Info, there you will see that CPU temps correspond to TMPIN1 and not TMPIN2.


Yes, the thing about the thermal margin is clear. OK, I will.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lddsys*
> 
> If I increase the multiplier then prime workers fail. Now I'm testing with 4,7 Ghz, this is the optimal setup for my cooling configuration because sometimes the thermal margin is only 5 celsius degrees.
> Yes, the thing about the thermal margin is clear. OK, I will.


How can you be so close to the max temp with these two radiators?

You sure the cpu block has a good mount?


----------



## lddsys

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> How can you be so close to the max temp with these two radiators?
> 
> You sure the cpu block has a good mount?


I don't know. I'll check that later. (According to my friend who also owns this cpu water block this is normal...)


----------



## ludespeedny

I just got these errors today:

[02/15/2014 at 08:25 pm] +3.3V 6.120 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 08:25 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 08:29 pm] +3.3V 0.648 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 08:29 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 08:32 pm] +3.3V 0.360 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 08:32 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 10:49 pm] +3.3V 0.360 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 10:49 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 10:50 pm] +3.3V 0.048 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 10:50 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 10:51 pm] +3.3V 0.384 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 10:51 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 10:52 pm] +3.3V 2.688 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 10:52 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 0.168 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 2.856 Abnormal
[02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
[02/17/2014 at 04:16 pm] +VDDA 0.084 Abnormal
[02/17/2014 at 04:16 pm] +VDDA 2.508 Normal

And when I got the vdda error I was in a game and it halted and then came back, it this an issue?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> I just got these errors today:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> [02/15/2014 at 08:25 pm] +3.3V 6.120 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 08:25 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 08:29 pm] +3.3V 0.648 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 08:29 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 08:32 pm] +3.3V 0.360 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 08:32 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:49 pm] +3.3V 0.360 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:49 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:50 pm] +3.3V 0.048 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:50 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:51 pm] +3.3V 0.384 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:51 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:52 pm] +3.3V 2.688 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:52 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 0.168 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 2.856 Abnormal
> [02/15/2014 at 10:53 pm] +3.3V 3.264 Normal
> [02/17/2014 at 04:16 pm] +VDDA 0.084 Abnormal
> [02/17/2014 at 04:16 pm] +VDDA 2.508 Normal
> 
> 
> 
> And when I got the vdda error I was in a game and it halted and then came back, it this an issue?


from which program ?


----------



## ludespeedny

Ai Suite II, more specifically Probe II. This occurred while playing borderlands 2 and it is like I just lost all power to my video card, the game crawled, but a reboot sorted it out.
Is it possible I have a failing psu? I have a 500watt thermaltake prob 3-4yrs old.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Ai Suite II, more specifically Probe II. This occurred while playing borderlands 2 and it is like I just lost all power to my video card, the game crawled, but a reboot sorted it out.
> Is it possible I have a failing psu? I have a 500watt thermaltake prob 3-4yrs old.


What are you working with?
Please fill out the rig builder section and add it to your sig. http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

AI Suite is known to be very buggy. You'll do much better running HWInfo64.
This may help uninstall AI Suite http://www.overclock.net/t/946327/official-asus-crosshair-v-formula-990fx-club/7720#post_21763765


----------



## ludespeedny

Ok, added my rig in the sig. Really only use AI Suite II to monitor the cores and control the cpu fan, but I think I can put that in the bios. I already experienced lots of issues with it effecting throttlingh games, so not a fan of it so far.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Ai Suite II, more specifically Probe II. This occurred while playing borderlands 2 and it is like I just lost all power to my video card, the game crawled, but a reboot sorted it out.
> Is it possible I have a failing psu? I have a 500watt thermaltake prob 3-4yrs old.


just uninstall it, that program is junk HWinfo64!


----------



## ludespeedny

Do you normally leave hwinfo64 up and running all times or just when monitoring?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Do you normally leave hwinfo64 up and running all times or just when monitoring?


Personally I only have it up and running while monitoring.
But you can leave it on, it uses very little resources.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Do you normally leave hwinfo64 up and running all times or just when monitoring?


On my setup it runs full time.
I try to keep a close on eye on things as I'm not always present while encoding etc.

Maybe it just helps me sleep better when I can see an entire days worth of activity all in the "Normal" range when it comes time for those overnight stress test runs.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Do you normally leave hwinfo64 up and running all times or just when monitoring?
> 
> 
> 
> On my setup it runs full time.
> I try to keep a close on eye on things as I'm not always present while encoding etc.
> 
> Maybe it just helps me sleep better when I can see an entire days worth of activity all in the "Normal" range when it comes time for those overnight stress test runs.
Click to expand...

i do as it sends sensor data to my aquaero


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Is it possible I have a failing psu? I have a 500watt thermaltake prob 3-4yrs old.


Very good chance it is. Even new, it looks like it has two 12 volt rails, [email protected], [email protected], pretty poor for overclocking.

Your rig is similar to mine. Overclocking my FX6300 to 4.8ghz and overclocking the GTX650 to as far as it will go, and running MSI Kombustor and Prime 95 small FFTs at the same time, I can push the wattage output to 400 watts (monitor and external drives not included) per my Kill-A-Watt meter. My 3 year old PSU is a CX600 with a single 46A rail. So far, its done a great job.

(at idle, with CnC enabled, I use 77 watts







)


----------



## ludespeedny

Here are some of the voltages from hwmonitor
http://i.imgur.com/7zecux7.png

What range psu should I look for?

Also not sure if related, but my comps works ok till I put it in sleep mode. Once it comes out I can't get anything over 3.8ghz and the occt graphs are erratic. Is this a psu problem too?


----------



## ludespeedny

Oh, and this is actually my current PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153028


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Here are some of the voltages from hwmonitor
> http://i.imgur.com/7zecux7.png
> 
> What range psu should I look for?
> 
> Also not sure if related, but my comps works ok till I put it in sleep mode. Once it comes out I can't get anything over 3.8ghz and the occt graphs are erratic. Is this a psu problem too?


Depends a little bit on your budget.

If you are tight on budget you can pick one of these:

Corsair TX650(v2)
XFX PRO 650W or 750W
OCZ Fatal1ty 750W

Or spend a little more and get one of these:

Cooler Master V Series V700
Corsair RM 650 or 750
Seasonic G-Serie 650 or 750
I do advice you to buy a PSU with more wattage to extend it's lifespan, because of the lower load. And so you have more room when you plan to upgrade the GPU later or whatever. Spending a few bucks more now would save you the trouble of upgrading the PSU later.

If you do have the credits to spend buy one of the lower three. Either of these will give you a solid PSU for at least the next 5 years.
My vote goes to Corsair for their awesome warranty service.


----------



## ludespeedny

Thanks! I think a new PSU will prob help alleviate all the random issues I am having.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Thanks! I think a new PSU will prob help alleviate all the random issues I am having.


Could very well be.

I had problems which were causes by a PSU before.
Random reboot's, crashes etc...

What you also can try is, look for a nice second hand Corsair PSU.
The RM line from Corsair has 5 years warranty, which are linked to the part number so a invoice isn't needed for the warranty.
I bought my current Corsair unit second hand.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Could very well be.
> 
> I had problems which were causes by a PSU before.
> Random reboot's, crashes etc...
> 
> What you also can try is, look for a nice second hand Corsair PSU.
> The RM line from Corsair has 5 years warranty, which are linked to the part number so a invoice isn't needed for the warranty.
> I bought my current Corsair unit second hand.


I've noticed a lot more companies are doing that. I like it!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I've noticed a lot more companies are doing that. I like it!


Ohh nice. I didn't know that.
But I like Corsair's service the most anyway.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ohh nice. I didn't know that.
> But I like Corsair's service the most anyway.


Main companies so far that I have seen this from is Asus Corsair xfx even MSI was great with their customer support.

I'm digging north America's XFX support. Must be small I seem to get the same guy every time


----------



## ludespeedny

That's a good Idea, I'll check that out.


----------



## ludespeedny

Would either of these be decent for my system? My budget is about $50 right now.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3844176


----------



## prboss

Question......

Is a VCore spike of 1.55 okay while playing BF3? It only happened once and the rest of the time it was around 1.43 - 1.48. I have the M5A99x evo R2.0 with a 8320 on a Evo 212 cooler. The only overclock I've done is adjust the multiplier, so my CPU is sitting around 4.1GHz. My temps are fine, about 54c at full load (prime95). During prime95 it didn't spike at all.

Also, about what it the Max VCore for a FX-8320?? Just wanted to see everyone's opinion.

ASUSTeKCOMPUTERINC.M5A99XEVOR2.0CPUVCOREVoltage.bmp 1100k .bmp file


----------



## sb23rd

Just noticed yesterday when playing BF3 my temps rose beyond normal. Socket temp hit 73c and core was at 58c. I opened cpuz and saw my voltage sitting on 1.45v. ***! Dunno why it's doing this. All power saving features are off so is core boost.

Anyway I went back to manual mode and set the vcore to 1.34. Stress testing shows vcore jumping from 1.33 to 1.308v and idling on 1.32v @ 4.5ghz. Anyway its stable and temps back to normal. Bye bye offset mode.

With no aircon running, nice moderate day with windows open I idle at 25-30c core and around 40-45c socket. I think I'll give oc another go and try push 4.8ghz with the goal of maintaining good temps.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Also, about what it the Max VCore for a FX-8320?? Just wanted to see everyone's opinion.


1.55 volts is the recommended max, so youre definately OK with that spike.

Quote:


> What range psu should I look for?


With your current setup, youre going to want at least 40A on a single 12 volt rail. The Corsair CX600 goes on sale at Newegg regularly for under $50. The single rail Rosewills also get good reviews and the 600 watt unit is now on sale for $39 after rebate. Thats about as cheap as your going to get away with, heh.

You dont want too high a wattage psu, as efficiency goes way down under 20% loads in idle. The good news is that it looks like the over-current protection in your present psu is working correctly.

I dont know about your sleep mode problems, as I have sleep set to hibernate in windows 8.1 and it works great for me.







(OK, hibernate does take longer to wake up, but with an SSD its pretty irrelevant. The plus is I can resume exactly where I left off watching a movie using my windows remote control, heh.)


----------



## prboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> 1.55 volts is the recommended max, so youre definately OK with that spike.


Cool


----------



## prboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sb23rd*
> 
> Just noticed yesterday when playing BF3 my temps rose beyond normal. Socket temp hit 73c and core was at 58c. I opened cpuz and saw my voltage sitting on 1.45v. ***! Dunno why it's doing this. All power saving features are off so is core boost.
> 
> Anyway I went back to manual mode and set the vcore to 1.34. Stress testing shows vcore jumping from 1.33 to 1.308v and idling on 1.32v @ 4.5ghz. Anyway its stable and temps back to normal. Bye bye offset mode.
> 
> With no aircon running, nice moderate day with windows open I idle at 25-30c core and around 40-45c socket. I think I'll give oc another go and try push 4.8ghz with the goal of maintaining good temps.


What MB & CPU are you using? And Cooler?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prboss*
> 
> Question......
> 
> Is a VCore spike of 1.55 okay while playing BF3? It only happened once and the rest of the time it was around 1.43 - 1.48. I have the M5A99x evo R2.0 with a 8320 on a Evo 212 cooler. The only overclock I've done is adjust the multiplier, so my CPU is sitting around 4.1GHz. My temps are fine, about 54c at full load (prime95). During prime95 it didn't spike at all.
> 
> Also, about what it the Max VCore for a FX-8320?? Just wanted to see everyone's opinion.
> 
> ASUSTeKCOMPUTERINC.M5A99XEVOR2.0CPUVCOREVoltage.bmp 1100k .bmp file


i have been hearing a ton of horror stories with sleep do you use it ?

max vcore does not matter temps do ! a friend is @ 1.7 24/7 for well over a year and i push 1.65 no harm


----------



## prboss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have been hearing a ton of horror stories with sleep do you use it ?
> 
> max vcore does not matter temps do ! a friend is @ 1.7 24/7 for well over a year and i push 1.65 no harm


No, I have my computer to stay on all the time. But again, the only thing I changed in the bios is the multiplier, so all of the CPU throttling stuff is still on.

I'm going to change it tomorrow and turn all that stuff off. At work right now, so gotta wait till the A.M.


----------



## sb23rd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prboss*
> 
> What MB & CPU are you using? And Cooler?


Asus M599FX Pro R2, FX-8350, Corsair H80i.

I noticed the spike just like you did only with BF3. Stressing with prime95 and occt did not give spikes. I'll probably stay with 4.5ghz & 1.34v as I find this resulting in acceptable temps. Playing BF3 the temps usually hit 60c socket and 45c core. I think I should invest in proper water cooling. I was thinking this http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=20463.


----------



## sb23rd

Double post.


----------



## ludespeedny

Just seeing new deals come in, is this a decent PSU: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817153167&nm_mc=EMC-IGNEFL022014&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL022014-_-EMC-022014-Index-_-PowerSupplies-_-17153167-L017A

I also found a Cooler Master GX 750 for $40 used. Either of these good, or should I keep looking?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sb23rd*
> 
> Playing BF3 the temps usually hit 60c socket and 45c core


That's perfectly acceptable and leaves you with some headroom. For peace of mind with the voltage spikes you can add air cooling to your VRMs by affixing a fan or two to the VRM heatsink (a bit of double-sided tape or zip-ties is acceptable) - might bring your socket temp down a bit too but your current levels aren't problematic


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Would either of these be decent for my system? My budget is about $50 right now.
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817207013
> http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=3844176


I highly recommend you to wait a little longer then till you have enough money to buy a decent one.

But if you DO need to buy now I suggest getting the XFX one.
I would avoid the Corsair CX line.


----------



## ludespeedny

I'll keep looking and holding out till I find a good deal. I can still use my pc, but just can't push it as far.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> I'll keep looking and holding out till I find a good deal. I can still use my pc, but just can't push it as far.


You can always send me a PM about this.
When you find a deal and you doubt if you should buy it or not, let me know.

I have been there, done that.
PSU is an important part of the build.


----------



## ludespeedny

Thanks! I appreciate it.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I would avoid the Corsair CX line.


My CX600 has been running great (tight voltages, low heat output, almost noiseless) for almost 4 years now. But yeah, based on other reviews from Newegg, it can a hit or miss kind of thing. It looks like if you dont get one that dies on you in a week or two or has a noisy/high pitched fan, that it will last years. Most of the CX units are made by CWT, who used to make Antec psu's when Antec was a good brand in the late 90's.

ludespeedny, the Thermaltake TR2 TR-700 700W on sale for $40 at Newegg has me perplexed. The 12 volt amperage is great at 52A and so is the 5 year warranty. From this review, http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermaltake-TR2-700-W-Power-Supply-Review/1422/1 it looks like its made by FSP, which is a very good psu manufacturer. (I still use a FSP 530 watt thats 11 years old. I only had to replace a dying fan it a couple of years back). However, I am concerned about the reviews on Newegg that have it dying after a few months. Very odd for a psu that has a 5 year warranty. Shipping back defective psu's can be about $20.

The review for the Cooler Master GX 750 can be found here: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Cooler-Master-GX-750-W-Power-Supply-Review/917/10 I would also be concerned about the warranty transfer on a used unit.

Buying a more expensive unit is certainly no guarantee that it wont be defective either, although normally it lessens the odds.

In summary, buying a psu online even after extensive reviews, can be a crap shoot, ya place your money and ya takes your chances.


----------



## ludespeedny

Yeah, what I noticed about newegg, is that very few of the reviews are actually for that PSU, most are from others (400watt, 600watt). It is tempting though for that price.
I have only owned one thermaltake psu and that one is 6+yrs old and the one I am maxing out now.


----------



## GeToChKn

Just curious of people find that pushing more FSB overclock than multiplier overclock needs more voltage, generates more heat, etc. I'm still playing around, can get about 4.6 out of my 8320 with multipler or 4.3 from FSB, but as soon as I get one stable and try to increase the other, it crashes stress testing. Or is a happy middle a bit of each.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> pushing more FSB overclock than multiplier overclock needs more voltage, generates more heat, etc.


Not necessarily more vcore voltage, but more VDDA, NB and HTT voltages. As such, more heat will be generated on those heatsinks so more fans will be necessary. See post #3 of this thread.

You also need to change the NB and HTT speeds (which will increase with fsb) so they dont exceed about 2700mhz.

For 24/7, Im at 4.8094 ghz, 229 X 21, 1.476 vcore, HTT and NB at 2516mhz, with my PNY pc1600 ram overclocked to 1830mhz. With CnC at low usage, its at 1601mhz.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Not necessarily more vcore voltage, but more VDDA, NB and HTT voltages. As such, more heat will be generated on those heatsinks so more fans will be necessary. See post #3 of this thread.
> 
> You also need to change the NB and HTT speeds (which will increase with fsb) so they dont exceed about 2700mhz.
> 
> For 24/7, Im at 4.8094 ghz, 229 X 21, 1.476 vcore, HTT and NB at 2516mhz, with my PNY pc1600 ram overclocked to 1830mhz. With CnC at low usage, its at 1601mhz.


Thanks. I did a BIOS update today, reset to default, set the recommended defaults in the first post, then plugged in your settings and hit 4848mhz Maybe it was me not messing with the HT speeds before or whatever.

I have a Seidon 240L cooler, with 4 artic fans in push pull, 3 more case fans, fan glued behind the motherboard on the socket, fan blowing down on the VRM's. I then ran a 3D fractal render, which is my stress test because it's the most my system will ever do, and it taxes all 8 cores, 100% usage and gives you something to look at while it takes 15mins to render. So after 15 mins rendering the fractal seen, those were my temps. The CPU was at 59 for the whole render and when it finished it spiked to the 61 for a second and that's why the max is 61 but it ran for 15 mins at 59c so I'll take that as the max.

ss.jpg 941k .jpg file


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ludespeedny*
> 
> Yeah, what I noticed about newegg, is that very few of the reviews are actually for that PSU, most are from others (400watt, 600watt). It is tempting though for that price.
> I have only owned one thermaltake psu and that one is 6+yrs old and the one I am maxing out now.


Yeah,don't rely on newegg reviews,there crap.These forums as well as professional reviews are best.Also,check out BeQuiet power zone,pretty solid PSU's.


----------



## orlfman

I picked up a H100i to overclock my beast and I could use a lot of help... First time ever overclocking a AMD processor. Right now I would like to overclock my 8350 to a mild 4.4ghz. I read the first page of this thread and I honestly don't know where to begin. Since my 8350 is unlocked do I just increase its multiplier? What voltage should do 4.4ghz? My ram is 1600mhz 1.5vs, do I have to increase FSB?


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Thanks. I did a BIOS update today, reset to default, set the recommended defaults in the first post, then plugged in your settings and hit 4848mhz Maybe it was me not messing with the HT speeds before or whatever.


So, youre at 231 X 21 ? At 59C, you can still go a bit higher than me because you have better ram and cooling on the cpu.

I have a 92mm fan on the backside of the motherboard, covering the cpu and vrm areas, running at 7 volts so its dead silent. I have the stock FX6300 fan blowing on the vrm heatsink and its controlled by the Asus FanXpert to ramp up when the cpu goes over 50C so its very quiet until then.









Quote:


> What voltage should do 4.4ghz?


Somewhere in the area around 1.38 to 1.4 volts. Yeah, just follow the guide on the first page of this thread. The M5A99X EVO R2.0 has slightly tiny different bios setting names and locations, but theyre very very close. Do the multiplier only overclock at first to get a good feel of your cpu, then later play with increasing the fsb.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> I picked up a H100i to overclock my beast and I could use a lot of help... First time ever overclocking a AMD processor. Right now I would like to overclock my 8350 to a mild 4.4ghz. I read the first page of this thread and I honestly don't know where to begin. Since my 8350 is unlocked do I just increase its multiplier? What voltage should do 4.4ghz? My ram is 1600mhz 1.5vs, do I have to increase FSB?


No need to overclock the FSB unless you want to go that route. Honestly you can get 4.4GHz by leaving everything at the defaults and using the built in OC tuner on your motherboard - it should put you right there


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> No need to overclock the FSB unless you want to go that route. Honestly you can get 4.4GHz by leaving everything at the defaults and using the built in OC tuner on your motherboard - it should put you right there


I made a thread on the motherboard section for some more clarification... How about if I sorta wanted to do it manually for 4.4ghz?


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> So, youre at 231 X 21 ? At 59C, you can still go a bit higher than me because you have better ram and cooling on the cpu.
> 
> I have a 92mm fan on the backside of the motherboard, covering the cpu and vrm areas, running at 7 volts so its dead silent. I have the stock FX6300 fan blowing on the vrm heatsink and its controlled by the Asus FanXpert to ramp up when the cpu goes over 50C so its very quiet until then.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Somewhere in the area around 1.38 to 1.4 volts. Yeah, just follow the guide on the first page of this thread. The M5A99X EVO R2.0 has slightly tiny different bios setting names and locations, but theyre very very close. Do the multiplier only overclock at first to get a good feel of your cpu, then later play with increasing the fsb.


Came down a bit to 225x21, was able to drop the voltage to 1.4, and nb voltage to 1.175, ht/cpu transport to 2200mhz each, ram at 1800mhz, for 4.763ghz. Did a 15min fractal render and max is 52/55 for core/socket temp. That's good for me. Bit lower temps and works fine under the max load I will put it under. I don't calculate linpacs, I don't search for prime number, I like 3D fractals and if it can max 8 cores at 4.763ghz at 100% and not crash while doing that, I'm good.


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> I made a thread on the motherboard section for some more clarification... How about if I sorta wanted to do it manually for 4.4ghz?


It's been a long time for me unfortunately since I was at 4.4 so I can't tell you off the top of my head what sort of cpu vcore/vid you should shoot for. I hear you on wanting to do it yourself though, I'm the same sort of way!

I see your title indicates you're into Linux. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with analogous tools to what I'm going to suggest for Windows so ... I'm going to run with Windows for now. There are probably Linpack-based implementations for linux I would imagine though for IBT AVX ...

Search on the forums here for a copy of IBT AVX - a few times people have added it as attachments to their posts. This is a more CPU-intensive version of Intel Linpack stress testing software than you can easily find on google under the name IBT (Intel Burn Test) as it uses an AVX instruction set which our processors do have. This is a quick way to gauge if you system is at least stable enough to sleep at night, but some people do like to go further and run Prime95 for tens of hours (such is their right). Personally if an OC of mine can go 10 rounds of IBT AVX on Maximum I bless it stable, as that's pushing my patience as it is. You're also going to want to pick up HWiNFO64. When you run it you might get warnings about using your motherboard's sensor. I just make sure not to have other motherboard monitoring software open and have had no issues using the ASUS sensor. HWiNFO64 will show you a number of readings, most importantly are your VRMs and package (the one listed under your CPU's sensor, not the motherboard's cpu sensor) temperatures. You will also be able to see your cpu vcore, but the reality is the measurement isn't always accurate. Still, it seems to be at least precise in the manner that even if it's off by a bit, it should be reliably off by the same amount at the same voltage.

To make your target of 4.4GHz interesting you could set an objective of keeping AMD Cool&Quiet enabled. Some people do achieve this with even higher clocks but personally I've never taken the time. This means your clocks will fluxuate with usage, which means ... cooler cores and a quieter computer if your fan speeds are automatically controlled. Either way though I would disable turbo core.

It's likely that you have some headroom right out of the gate in regard to voltage. First step is to establish that you're stable without modification - go ahead and run IBT AVX @ Max. It will probably take 4 mintues on each round. For rough ideas 5 rounds will let you know if you're in the ballpark or not.

Once you're established stable ... you can probably bump the multiplier by 1, which brings you to 21. A multiplier of 21, multiplied by the FSB of 200 yields 4.2GHz. It's possible you'll have enough voltage as stock to support this. Setting LLC to Very High or Extreme if available will give you some more leeway as in overshooting your set voltage when necessary but ultimately leads to slightly higher temps than fine tuning it (relevance depends on thermal headroom). If you fail IBT AVX at this level then boot into the BIOS and up the CPU VID/VCORE by one tic (by pressing the + sign). If you want to use C&Q like I challenged keep the voltage at the default offset mode. Then try once more doing IBT AVX.

if you _did_ pass at 4.2 ... well IME the need for voltage curve is exponential and your multiplier increments can only go as small as 0.5 so you'll probably need more voltage. At this point I start to lead with voltage and catch up with clocks. During your IBT AVX tests keep an eye on your package/core temperatures and whichever VCORE (-1 or -2) is higher in HWiNFO - the higher value will be your VRMs which regulate how much power reaches the socket and get warmer with more vcore (really unless you don't have VRM heatsinks on your motherboard this shouldn't be an issue with your target). Maximum recommended core temps are 62*C. Internal damage point (logic gates start soldering together supposedly) is ~75*C on the 8350.

Keep dancing between voltage and multiplier until you get to 4.4 stable, then you can lower your vcore to stable. If it happens too quickly and you're bored, turn LLC back down a bit but _make sure_ you aren't getting voltage dips when the stress testing starts. As far as I understand LLC was designed to combat this, which in turn results in overshooting target voltage. If you notice this symptom with your board you're going to want to keep LLC.on

I read in the thread you linked that you already set the CPU/NB (this is the IMC on the chip as I understand) to 2200 and the HTT link to 2600. Once you're done you can try playing with the CPU/NB to see what gets you the highest GFLOP score in IBT/AVX. For me this has been 2400, with worse performance below and barely if any improvement above (seems the GFLOPs are less repeatable). This makes sense mathematically I read as I have dual channel DDR3 1600. Do what works for you. At 2400 you may need to bump the voltage a tic. Another trick I've had some luck with is lowering the RAM voltage a couple ticks when I'm right there but failing IBT AVX after it passes without crashing but IBT says the results were wrong

Unfortunately I won't be with the rig until Sunday evening but I'll be following your progress and possibly posting my results here of overclocking my girlfriend's A10-6800k. Good Luck! Oh and if you do find some good scripts or binaries for linux along the lines of monitoring and stressing link them please.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Came down a bit to 225x21, was able to drop the voltage to 1.4, and nb voltage to 1.175, ht/cpu transport to 2200mhz each,


Just for reference, Im at :

CPU/NB Offset Voltage - +.043750 so it shows 1.231 volts
CPU VDDA Voltage - 2.625
NB Voltage - 1.16875
Dram Voltage - 1.65 which is the stock voltage
NB HT Voltage - 1.23125
NB 1.8 Voltage - Auto
SB Voltage - Auto

With the VRM cooling setup as described in the previous post, the highest temp Ive measured at any point on the VRM or NB heatsink under prime 95 load with my Rosewill Infrared Thermometer (should be accurate to at least +/- 5 F) has been only 115 F.


----------



## Mega Man

boy where to start
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Not necessarily more vcore voltage, but more VDDA, NB and HTT voltages. As such, more heat will be generated on those heatsinks so more fans will be necessary. See post #3 of this thread.


you do not need to increase HT speeds unless ocing ht, which my first question would be "why are you ocing ht" please know this comes from someone running 3900 ht

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> ss.jpg 941k .jpg file


fyi it is much easier to instead of attaching the image click the pic of a pic
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> I picked up a H100i to overclock my beast and I could use a lot of help... First time ever overclocking a AMD processor. Right now I would like to overclock my 8350 to a mild 4.4ghz. I read the first page of this thread and I honestly don't know where to begin. Since my 8350 is unlocked do I just increase its multiplier? What voltage should do 4.4ghz? My ram is 1600mhz 1.5vs, do I have to increase FSB?


welcome !

idk the volts for 4.4, iirc it can be done on most 8350s at stock, but not all, ( ~ 1.3 )
depending on mobo i always recommend bumping dram volts as the only mobo that didnt have vdroop was my sabertooth ( i didnt see your rig sorry )
good way to oc
bump multi until you can not boot into windows ( or to where you want ) then stability test or stability test with each bump. ( latter takes much longer ) use either prime 95 and or ibt avx ( please see the opening post in the 83xx club in my sig, click the spoiler ) make sure to use 90% memory !!!

way i oc, i goto where i want and bump vcore till i can boot and then bump at least 2 more times, then start stability testing, my personal fav is to encode vids i use dvd fab it is cool because it did stress ht as well which being in quadfire i actually can use it

other things to do besides vcore
cpu/nb +0.1v
nb +0.1v
*when fsb ocing it helps * to bump the voltage that is set to 1.8v at stock 1-2 bumps is all that is needed it will help stabilze the fsb but too much will overshoot the fsb, i have seen it overshoot by 50 !~
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> I picked up a H100i to overclock my beast and I could use a lot of help... First time ever overclocking a AMD processor. Right now I would like to overclock my 8350 to a mild 4.4ghz. I read the first page of this thread and I honestly don't know where to begin. Since my 8350 is unlocked do I just increase its multiplier? What voltage should do 4.4ghz? My ram is 1600mhz 1.5vs, do I have to increase FSB?
> 
> 
> 
> No need to overclock the FSB unless you want to go that route. Honestly you can get 4.4GHz by leaving everything at the defaults and using the built in OC tuner on your motherboard - it should put you right there
Click to expand...

yea, highly not recommended unless you get failure with your chip first
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Came down a bit to 225x21, was able to drop the voltage to 1.4, and nb voltage to 1.175, ht/cpu transport to 2200mhz each,
> 
> 
> 
> Just for reference, Im at :
> CPU/NB Offset Voltage - +.043750 so it shows 1.231 volts
> CPU VDDA Voltage - 2.625
> NB Voltage - 1.16875
> Dram Voltage - 1.65 which is the stock voltage
> NB HT Voltage - 1.23125
> NB 1.8 Voltage - Auto
> SB Voltage - Auto
> 
> With the VRM cooling setup as described in the previous post, the highest temp Ive measured at any point on the VRM or NB heatsink under prime 95 load with my Rosewill Infrared Thermometer (should be accurate to at least +/- 5 F) has been only 115 F.
Click to expand...

why would you want to lower both ht and cpu/NB ? ( unless you are talking about bd and not Vish ) which you are not


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> why would you want to lower both ht and cpu/NB ? ( unless you are talking about bd and not Vish ) which you are not


He probably found a thread by reading and following all the links in the FSB overclocking portion of the first few posts of this thread like I did. The idea is that lowering the CPU/NB can end up running cooler package temps. I pursued this but my GFLOPs in IBT AVX ended up plummeting from 80-85 to ~55 at one point. Unacceptable no matter what the thermals are


----------



## orlfman

So I've been running five passes of intel burn test avx custom using 14 of my 16 of ram and always when it finishes the last fith pass it says "critical error, warning linepack binary stopped unexpectedly. This could be a result of missing executables, unstable system, or a software bug. If you have UAC enabled, please try re-running the program with administrative privileges."

I tried dropping it down to 4.2ghz and recieved the same error. Whats even more odd is recieving the error at stock 4ghz speed with everything back to stock auto....


----------



## Mega Man

idr how someone fixed it . sorry


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> which my first question would be "why are you ocing ht" please know this comes from someone running 3900 ht


Im confused, youre running 3900 mhz HT versus 5200 mhz HT ? Does that help you ?

Part of the reason I bought a 990 board vs a 970 board was the increase in HT speeds (5200 vs 4800).
Quote:


> why would you want to lower both ht and cpu/NB ?


I didnt lower them, I increased them over what the bios was originally showing me. It looks like I can safely up them some more, and I'll try upping the NB 1.8 voltage up a notch too, thanks. Keep in mind, Im only working with PC1600 9-9-9-24 ram which Ive already OC to 1830 9-10-10-30. I would like to keep it at CAS 9.

(I got the 2 X 4gb sticks two years ago for $32, and they included two free movies. Unbelievable how ram prices change, heh.)


----------



## orlfman

Alright I fixed my intel burn text issues with the help of another memeber but now curious as to how I can easy lower my socket temp? Anyone have any good guides with hacking a fan to blow air over the vrms and socket on an asus m599x/fx motherboard?


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Anyone have any good guides with hacking a fan to blow air over the vrms and socket on an asus m599x/fx motherboard?


Well, I never use the rear I/O cover shield, so I just drilled two small holes, the distance of the fan holes, into the back of the case and secured the fan with nylon zip ties. Also stick a small shim on the side of the fan so it angles towards the vrm heatsink / cpu socket.

If you wanted to keep the I/O cover, you would have to drill 2 pairs of holes, distance separated by the thickness of the fan.

When drilling with the mobo in, cover the area with masking tape to prevent fillings from falling on the mobo.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> Alright I fixed my intel burn text issues with the help of another memeber but now curious as to how I can easy lower my socket temp? Anyone have any good guides with hacking a fan to blow air over the vrms and socket on an asus m599x/fx motherboard?


Here is an old CPU fan glued to the back of my motherboard cpu bracket to blow air on the socket and back of the VRM's.



Here is a stock cooler on the front of the MB blowing on the VRM's. I took a couple of self taping wood screws and screwed through the two fan holes on the fan it hit two of the slots between the fins perfectly and screwing in tightly.



My Water cool has 4 fans, push/pull config, fan at the back, one in the front, one in the bottom of the case. With all that, last night I hit 4.8 on my 8320 and socket was about 67 under full stress, only 58 when doing real load work like rendering a 3D fractal and my core temp was 58 after 100% usage for 20mins straight rendering and that is about as intense as I'll use my PC. I backed off my OC a bit and playing around 4.6 or so as it seems to keep both temps under 50 under full load. I rather have a big thermal margin of error than a few hundred extra mhz. It gets adicting though, wanting to hit higher just to hit higher. lol. I did 5ghz last night. Got waaaay too hot to fast, like core temp up to 65 after 6s in IBT, but I still hit 5gz. lol. Not practical to run 24/7 though. Rather have a 15c window.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> did 5ghz last night. Got waaaay too hot to fast, like core temp up to 65 after 6s in IBT, but I still hit 5gz. lol. Not practical to run 24/7 though. Rather have a 15c window.


Your temps seem high to me with your very nice cooling setup. How to they compare to other eight cores with a 240mm radiator cooling setup ?

With my dinky Hyper 212+ with push pull fans, I only hit 63C socket, 67C core @ 4.8ghz after about a half hour of Prime 95 small FFTs.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Your temps seem high to me with your very nice cooling setup. How to they compare to other eight cores with a 240mm radiator cooling setup ?
> 
> With my dinky Hyper 212+ with push pull fans, I only hit 63C socket, 67C core @ 4.8ghz after about a half hour of Prime 95 small FFTs.


4.7, 4.8 wasn't an issue. Just the bump in everything I needed to hit 5ghz pushed it too high. Still might play again, I don't know. lol. Damn addicting overclocking. lol.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Your temps seem high to me with your very nice cooling setup. How to they compare to other eight cores with a 240mm radiator cooling setup ?
> 
> With my dinky Hyper 212+ with push pull fans, I only hit 63C socket, 67C core @ 4.8ghz after about a half hour of Prime 95 small FFTs.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> 4.7, 4.8 wasn't an issue. Just the bump in everything I needed to hit 5ghz pushed it too high. Still might play again, I don't know. lol. Damn addicting overclocking. lol.


Once you start you are hooked for life.









Around 4.7-4.8 most chip's will meet the voltage wall.

My fx-8320 @ 4.7 with 2400 ram, 2400 cpu-nb and 2600 HT needs 1.3 volts on the cpu-nb and 1.44 on the cpu itself.

For 5ghz 2133 ram, 2200 cpu-nb and 2600 HT it needs 1.548v with 1.25v on the cpu-nb.


----------



## GeToChKn

I still seem to have higher temps. May have to try to reset my cooler and thermal paste. 1.5v would heat me up instantly i think. lol.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> I still seem to have higher temps. May have to try to reset my cooler and thermal paste. 1.5v would heat me up instantly i think. lol.


What voltage did you use when you tested 5ghz?
And what ram and cpu-nb clock?

I may hope you have much higher temps with 1.54-1.57v then me.
Would make me cry if you weren't, considering the money I paid for my cooling.









Custom loop with a UT60 360 radiator.
Maybe I have to remount the block though. Temps still seem a bit high to me.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What voltage did you use when you tested 5ghz?
> And what ram and cpu-nb clock?
> 
> I may hope you have much higher temps with 1.54-1.57v then me.
> Would make me cry if you weren't, considering the money I paid for my cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Custom loop with a UT60 360 radiator.
> Maybe I have to remount the block though. Temps still seem a bit high to me.


Just redid my thermal paste and my cooler and just barely slightly tighented it. i think i've been tightening too much, thermal paste wasn't spread well. this time did a bb sized drop in the middle and just tightened the cooler barely on and my temps are already 10c+ cooler on the core. core max hovers right around 50, even at 4.8 but the socket temp just shoots up to almost 70 at 4.7 or 4.8 seems any voltage I give my chip just heats the socket temp high regardless of fan on the socket at the back blowing down in the front on the vrm heatsink. Might try putting my 4 rad fans blowing down instead into the case, I dunno. I'm at just over 1.43v, 230fsb, 21x, 1.18nb and my socket hits almost 70 after 2 IBT passes.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I still seem to have higher temps. May have to try to reset my cooler and thermal paste. 1.5v would heat me up instantly i think. lol.


What paste are you using ? If its the stock Cooler Master paste in the purple tube, you could knock at least a good 2C off if you use Arctic Silver Ceramique or Arctic MX-4 which I presently use. (Ive always been scared to use conductive type pastes, heh)
Quote:


> Custom loop with a UT60 360 radiator.


Your temps are more in line of what I would expect @ 5 ghz. Question, 3 fans or 6 on the radiator ?

Youre certainly right, once you start youre hooked for life, heh.

(I keep pond koi and goldfish, so Ive got a good collection 100 - 800 gph pumps to spare, plus lots of aquarium tanks and buckets/66 gallon barrels. About 7 years ago, I carved out a S shaped channel water block out of a 2" X 3" X 3/8" block of copper, but havent used it. Ive got plenty of 1/2" plexy and the tougher poly stuff. I did find a waterproof glue good up to 70C, but forgot what it was, heh. Ive also got an amazing collection of old shower heads, heh. (and I got a good 50 ft of 3/8" copper tubing which Im not using which could be buried deep for geo cooling) So Im tempted to set up an evaporative/geo cooling system, but if all Im going to get out of it is another maybe 400 mhz (less than 10%), maybe its not worth the effort ? Especially considering the risk factor of a leaky system ? )


----------



## GeToChKn

I have a feeling the Artic F12 fans aren't up to the rad cooling. They just don't move much air, even at full power you can barely feel them. Think I'm going to back to the Corsair fans that came with the cooler, at least they can move some air. Only problem is I used 1 in my girlfriends 6350 build and now I have to wait till she's done her Sim's so I can shut down her computer and steal a fan. lol. I know it's an all in one water cooler, but should be getting better cooling out of it. Pulling or pushing more heat out of the rad should help keep the CPU cool and maybe the socket too since the CPU wouldn't be as hot.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Think I'm going to back to the Corsair fans that came with the cooler, at least they can move some air. Only problem is I used 1 in my girlfriends 6350 build and now I have to wait till she's done her Sim's so I can shut down her computer and steal a fan. lol.


Buying the 2 packs of the Corsair high SP fans seems to be the cheapest way to go on those fans, whether from newegg or amazon.









I myself just bought a Lepa 70d to replace my old Delta 120 X 38 fan that I ran at 7 volts. Since Ive reduced the fan noise my system to about absolute nil, the Delta was the noisiest with a small rattling sound even after reoiling. The Lepa 70d has a decent amount of SP and good air movement, which helped me drop another 1C over the old big delta (because it can be mobo controlled and the old Delta couldnt (the Delta however kicks butt at 12 volts, 150 cfm) and its much quieter than the CM stock fan. Also, as a plus you get a 18" 3 pin connector to the mobo, plus a 5v-7v-12v adapter (very handy to keep around for other fans) with it , plus a 100,000 hr life ?, for a total of $5.99 with free shipping, which takes a strange week long time to ship to me (it was only .6 lbs for goodness sake) from only 3 hours away, heh, Amazing how Newegg has gone done the drain.


----------



## orlfman

My hack of adding the stock fan on on my vrm heatsink and pushed enough to also help blow air to under the socket. From first impression it lowered my motherboards temp by 6c







Now to run a battery of tests to see if it helps lower the socket temp under load!

Edit:
Saw a nice 6c drop is socket load temps







Even saw a drop in core temps too. About 4c which surprised me.


----------



## cpmee

Looks good.
IMHO, a slim non conductive shim that would make the fan about 3/8" off the top of vrm sink and pointed a little towards the base of the socket would help. But just my opinion.


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Looks good.
> IMHO, a slim non conductive shim that would make the fan about 3/8" off the top of vrm sink and pointed a little towards the base of the socket would help. But just my opinion.


Would something like this work?


----------



## GeToChKn

Well redid my fans. Did the coolermaster fans blowing out instead, moved my socket fan, latest results. Much better.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Well redid my fans. Did the coolermaster fans blowing out instead, moved my socket fan, latest results. Much better.


Looks good.

But again, those F12 fan's aren't that bad. Have a read here:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?261778-120mm-Fan-Testing-on-an-MCR120-Radiator-Round-6

But are you sure you are stable?
Did you run prime blend for at least 6 hours?

And you do get better temps if you put the radiator as intake.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Looks good.
> 
> But again, those F12 fan's aren't that bad. Have a read here:
> http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?261778-120mm-Fan-Testing-on-an-MCR120-Radiator-Round-6
> 
> But are you sure you are stable?
> Did you run prime blend for at least 6 hours?
> 
> And you do get better temps if you put the radiator as intake.


No I didn't do a prime test. Few hours of some CPU litecoin mining and a 55 min fractal render and an hour or so of BF3 without a glitch. that's real world stable for me. lol.

I'll probably set it a bit lower for all day usage, Prime just kills my socket temps. I'm not sure what else to do for the socket temp. Got fan on front and back of socket, and everywhere else. It's lower and about in line with the CPU now, until I put a bit of voltage to it and the socket heats right up fast. Maybe just my board, my PSU, my chip. I'm happy with what I get, just a lot of people seem to get lower socket temps. MEh, I"m happy.with what I can get out of it. Jsut the bug got me on trying to get more. lol. IT was the same way back in the day when I started OC'ing old Celerons'.

Intake vs outtake didn't seem to help much with the temps either way. maybe a degree here or there.

The artic fans seem good for case fans. Can run that at 12v and get some decent flow all the time through the case, but for the rad's, even 4 of them in push/pull didn't do as much as the 2 stock cooler master fans do. Granted they are louder but my fan profile only kicks the rad fans and the socket fans into any noticable noise when the socket hits 50, then ramps up to 100% at 60c, so under normal load, my pc is dead quiet.

Just so many settings to change, conflict on whats better vs worse, what works vs what may work, etc.

My CPU at stock is only like 1.308v, but seems to need a big boost to get any decent oc and then it just heats the socket super fast. Don't know what could combat that settings wise.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> No I didn't do a prime test. Few hours of some CPU litecoin mining and a 55 min fractal render and an hour or so of BF3 without a glitch. that's real world stable for me. lol.
> 
> I'll probably set it a bit lower for all day usage, Prime just kills my socket temps. I'm not sure what else to do for the socket temp. Got fan on front and back of socket, and everywhere else. It's lower and about in line with the CPU now, until I put a bit of voltage to it and the socket heats right up fast. Maybe just my board, my PSU, my chip. I'm happy with what I get, just a lot of people seem to get lower socket temps. MEh, I"m happy.with what I can get out of it. Jsut the bug got me on trying to get more. lol. IT was the same way back in the day when I started OC'ing old Celerons'.
> 
> Intake vs outtake didn't seem to help much with the temps either way. maybe a degree here or there.
> 
> The artic fans seem good for case fans. Can run that at 12v and get some decent flow all the time through the case, but for the rad's, even 4 of them in push/pull didn't do as much as the 2 stock cooler master fans do. Granted they are louder but my fan profile only kicks the rad fans and the socket fans into any noticable noise when the socket hits 50, then ramps up to 100% at 60c, so under normal load, my pc is dead quiet.
> 
> Just so many settings to change, conflict on whats better vs worse, what works vs what may work, etc.
> 
> My CPU at stock is only like 1.308v, but seems to need a big boost to get any decent oc and then it just heats the socket super fast. Don't know what could combat that settings wise.


My socket is the same.
It's only up till 4.6 or something where the cores get hotter. From stock to 4.4-4.5 the cores are way below socket temp.

But I think you are just nearing the max your cooling can take.
These chip's put out some serious heat you know. A mere seidon 240m isn't enough to cool that sucker down.

Sure your cooler is a decent one but just not enough if you want to clock a 8-core amd that high.
Then again we are comparing your cooler, which is about 100 euro's, with mine, which is a custom loop which costed me around 400 euro's.

Maybe your particular cpu just isn't the greatest overclocker. But even if you can only clock it at 4.6-4.7 you have a decent overclock. Coming from a 3.5 base clock.

Seems like your voltage wall is around 4.7 to, like mine.
When I want to go from 4.7 to 5ghz I need to up the voltage from 1.44-1.46v to 1.54-1.57v.
That needs massive cooling.










edit:

Just did a few runs of IBT avx on very high. 4.8 ghz 1.475 volts in the bios.
Look at the peak temps and voltage to get a comparison of our cooling.



I modded my Corsair 650D case so that I have a 120mm intake behind the motherboard. That lowered my socket temp at least 10c.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> which my first question would be "why are you ocing ht" please know this comes from someone running 3900 ht
> 
> 
> 
> Im confused, youre running 3900 mhz HT versus 5200 mhz HT ? Does that help you ?
> 
> Part of the reason I bought a 990 board vs a 970 board was the increase in HT speeds (5200 vs 4800).
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> why would you want to lower both ht and cpu/NB ?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I didnt lower them, I increased them over what the bios was originally showing me. It looks like I can safely up them some more, and I'll try upping the NB 1.8 voltage up a notch too, thanks. Keep in mind, Im only working with PC1600 9-9-9-24 ram which Ive already OC to 1830 9-10-10-30. I would like to keep it at CAS 9.
> 
> (I got the 2 X 4gb sticks two years ago for $32, and they included two free movies. Unbelievable how ram prices change, heh.)
Click to expand...

i suck at explaining this but here goes
stock is 2600 (2600x2 = 5200 )

mine is 3900 ( 3900x2 = 7800 )
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HyperTransport

you multiply it by 2 as it is bidirectional ( up and down )


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i suck at explaining this but here goes
> stock is 2600 (2600x2 = 5200 )
> 
> mine is 3900 ( 3900x2 = 7800 )
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HyperTransport
> 
> you multiply it by 2 as it is bidirectional ( up and down )


Sounds pretty clear to me.









Do you have any comparison benchmarks?
Would be interested in this.

Am I right about this?
A higher HT is only useful when you run multiple GPU's.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Would something like this work?


No, no, no. I meant something like a small slanted piece of wood or plastic under the vrm fan, to get it pointed in the right direction.
Quote:


> mine is 3900 ( 3900x2 = 7800 )


Whoa, I wasnt expecting HT to go that high, thats why I assumed 1950 X 2, heh.








Quote:


> Am I right about this?
> A higher HT is only useful when you run multiple GPU's.


I would think its gotta increase the memory bandwidth ?


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> My socket is the same.
> It's only up till 4.6 or something where the cores get hotter. From stock to 4.4-4.5 the cores are way below socket temp.
> 
> But I think you are just nearing the max your cooling can take.
> These chip's put out some serious heat you know. A mere seidon 240m isn't enough to cool that sucker down.
> 
> Sure your cooler is a decent one but just not enough if you want to clock a 8-core amd that high.
> Then again we are comparing your cooler, which is about 100 euro's, with mine, which is a custom loop which costed me around 400 euro's.
> 
> Maybe your particular cpu just isn't the greatest overclocker. But even if you can only clock it at 4.6-4.7 you have a decent overclock. Coming from a 3.5 base clock.
> 
> Seems like your voltage wall is around 4.7 to, like mine.
> When I want to go from 4.7 to 5ghz I need to up the voltage from 1.44-1.46v to 1.54-1.57v.
> That needs massive cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> edit:
> 
> Just did a few runs of IBT avx on very high. 4.8 ghz 1.475 volts in the bios.
> Look at the peak temps and voltage to get a comparison of our cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> I modded my Corsair 650D case so that I have a 120mm intake behind the motherboard. That lowered my socket temp at least 10c.


Ya, I think that's my limit. Beyond that and my cooler can't keep up. I know it's not a full on water loop and doesn't about the same job as a high end air cooler. I think just with the fans changing and moving the vrm and not tightening my cooler down so tight, etc, and all the other things I've done in the past day has gotten my system running better and down clocking to 4.6, I should have temps like yours at 5 but with under 1.4v. Anything under about 4.6 and my chip hardly needs and voltage bump and like I said, my chip is 1.308v stock, so a low stock value, should have good OC room. I think my chip is actually pretty good and the rest of my stuff, just my cooling isn't enough to get me past the 4.8 barrier.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Ya, I think that's my limit. Beyond that and my cooler can't keep up. I know it's not a full on water loop and doesn't about the same job as a high end air cooler. I think just with the fans changing and moving the vrm and not tightening my cooler down so tight, etc, and all the other things I've done in the past day has gotten my system running better and down clocking to 4.6, I should have temps like yours at 5 but with under 1.4v. Anything under about 4.6 and my chip hardly needs and voltage bump and like I said, my chip is 1.308v stock, so a low stock value, should have good OC room. I think my chip is actually pretty good and the rest of my stuff, just my cooling isn't enough to get me past the 4.8 barrier.


I can run 5ghz with much less voltage.

But I only run an overclock when it is at least 10 runs IBT avx on maximum stable.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I can run 5ghz with much less voltage.
> 
> But I only run an overclock when it is at least 10 runs IBT avx on maximum stable.


Ya the stress testing pushing these things far beyond anything in the real world for the most part. If I can render a 3D fractal at 8 cores 100% usage for an hour straight and not top over 50 core/55 socket, I think that's good for me. That is by far the most intense thing I do with my PC. the other is either BF3 which uses like 60% usage and doesn't get me over 40c. lol.

Thanks for yours and everyone elses help though.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i suck at explaining this but here goes
> stock is 2600 (2600x2 = 5200 )
> 
> mine is 3900 ( 3900x2 = 7800 )
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HyperTransport
> 
> you multiply it by 2 as it is bidirectional ( up and down )
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds pretty clear to me.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any comparison benchmarks?
> Would be interested in this.
> 
> Am I right about this?
> A higher HT is only useful when you run multiple GPU's.
Click to expand...

more or less, unless you are running some crazy pcie stuffs
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Would something like this work?
> 
> 
> 
> No, no, no. I meant something like a small slanted piece of wood or plastic under the vrm fan, to get it pointed in the right direction.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> mine is 3900 ( 3900x2 = 7800 )
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Whoa, I wasnt expecting HT to go that high, thats why I assumed 1950 X 2, heh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Am I right about this?
> A higher HT is only useful when you run multiple GPU's.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I would think its gotta increase the memory bandwidth ?
Click to expand...

no. memory is cpu/nb which i run @ 2700
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I can run 5ghz with much less voltage.
> 
> But I only run an overclock when it is at least 10 runs IBT avx on maximum stable.
> 
> 
> 
> Ya the stress testing pushing these things far beyond anything in the real world for the most part. If I can render a 3D fractal at 8 cores 100% usage for an hour straight and not top over 50 core/55 socket, I think that's good for me. That is by far the most intense thing I do with my PC. the other is either BF3 which uses like 60% usage and doesn't get me over 40c. lol.
> 
> Thanks for yours and everyone elses help though.
Click to expand...

not completely true, when i encode, it far exceeds anything prime or ibt does


----------



## GeToChKn

Just noticed my Gflop in IBT are like half of yours, even at 4.8ghz. What did I change to mess this up. lol.


----------



## Mega Man

are you using ibt avx, probably not check the op of the 83xx club. ibtavx is a different puppy then the ibt and it will push your oc much harder odds are you are not stable fair warning


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you using ibt avx, probably not check the op of the 83xx club. ibtavx is a different puppy then the ibt and it will push your oc much harder odds are you are not stable fair warning


Yes. I downloaded that version and am in the 80's now. Well it depends on how I overclock. I figure 4.5 is a good number to settle at that won't generate massive heat, need massive voltage, or get me anywhere near the thermal limits.

So I tried first 4.5 with all multiplier, 22.5x standard 200 bus speed. avg 76 glfop
Then I tried 4.5 with 225 fsb and 20 multiplier avg 76 gflop
Then I went 21x and 215fsb and I get 85.

Seem's to be a sweet spot of enough FSB for the multiplier or something. 10glfop difference doesn't seem to be a fluke. even went back and tried those settings again, same thing. I didn't touch anything else though, just adjusted those two values from AI Suite. This combo also gave the lowest temps. Only a few degrees, but enough.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> are you using ibt avx, probably not check the op of the 83xx club. ibtavx is a different puppy then the ibt and it will push your oc much harder odds are you are not stable fair warning


Have to agree on this.

When my score is either lower then expected or is all over the place, it ain't stable.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Just out of boredom I had another look at my BIOS and the settings and started wondering: how much does playing with things like Power Phase and Power Response control affect temps? I know they are VRM settings that increase stability but also temps as well, but how big is the impact? Also, what does the Motherboard sensor on HWiNFO64 show? I'm guessing NB or VRM temp, but which one?


----------



## Sdf89

I run on an ASUS M5a97 r2.0 and i noticed there were some notes regarding this board are there any major differences as far as the settings are concerned


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Just out of boredom I had another look at my BIOS and the settings and started wondering: how much does playing with things like Power Phase and Power Response control affect temps? I know they are VRM settings that increase stability but also temps as well, but how big is the impact? Also, what does the Motherboard sensor on HWiNFO64 show? I'm guessing NB or VRM temp, but which one?


vrm temps

odds are more then likely it is in the nb but tbh idk


----------



## OldBarzo

HI

Have just lately upgraded my Mobo from an MSI 970A-G46 to an Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0 (BIOS 2201)
and FX6300.
Started to OC using the info from the OP at start of thread but have been having problems.
When I followed the instructions exactly my PC would not boot at any OC above the Stock frequency,
so I set everything to auto and and restarted again, this time just on Manual and upping the Multiplied only with
all power saving features disabled and I have been able to get to 4.1Ghz and passed Prime small FFTs each time. Max CPU Temp 45C as per HWMon64
But when I tried for 4.2Ghz and ran Prime Core 6 failed on the first pass.
My Ram is Kingston DDR3 1600 4x2Gb Dimms

Any help greatly appreciated.

Oldbarzo


----------



## GeToChKn

So I decided to play around and do some tests. 4.5 seems to be a stable speed and not need a lot of voltage or heat up under testing. I was curious though if getting to 4.5ghz was better with FSB or multiplier, if faster RAM, HT, CPU/NB Link had an effect, so here is my chart. I set my BIOS to the recommended settings and then only adjusted the setting shown in the chart. I tried 4.6-4.9 but they required too much voltage and my cooling can't keep up. I ran IBT AVX with a standard set of 10, and averaged the GFLOPS and rounded up the nearest number for ease. Temps were also rounded.



The CPU/NB Link seemed to have the biggest effect on more gflops, see test number 2,3,4 and 6,7,8. Same settings and only increasing that increased the gflops. Anything over 2400, even 2457 needed more voltage and NB voltage. Increasing HT Link speed didn't as you can see from test 5 to 6.

With roughly the same CPU/NB link speed, it didn't matter if it was FSB or multipler, the gflop and temps were about the same. Only increasing voltages brought on more heat for minimal gain. I'm running at number 3 right now as it seemed to give the highest settings with the lowest temps and voltages. I can probably tweak the voltage down some and stay cooler.

Anything above 4.5 OR a CPU/NB Link speed of 2400 needs more voltage though and the heat trade off isn't worth it.

Not sure if this helps anyone, was just my own testing to see what way to get 4.5 gave me the coolest temps and best gflops, which I would translate to more calculations per second being down, and thus being more efficent at processing regardless of clock speed. It's getting more done per clock.

I even tried downclocking to 3ghz and uping the CP/NB link to 2800, 3000 range but couldn't get it to post.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> But when I tried for 4.2Ghz and ran Prime Core 6 failed on the first pass.


Up your vcore a bit more, which is at what voltage ?

Quote:


> Anything above 4.5 OR a CPU/NB Link speed of 2400 needs more voltage though and the heat trade off isn't worth it.


Run #4 seems to be your best, and expected at 2600. I think your motherboard temps are really your cpu on chip temps. Even in hot cases, the motherboard temps generally dont get over 40C. Anyway, you still have a little bit more distance to go on safe temps and voltages.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Up your vcore a bit more, which is at what voltage ?
> Run #4 seems to be your best, and expected at 2600. I think your motherboard temps are really your cpu on chip temps. Even in hot cases, the motherboard temps generally dont get over 40C. Anyway, you still have a little bit more distance to go on safe temps and voltages.


Well I know there are 2 temps that most monitorting programs report that both go up during oc. the core or package, which I take as the actual core. the other one is what, the vrm temp or northbridge. some people call it the socket temp and that limit is 72c and the other limit is 62c.

I know I have more room but past 1.4 or so every bit of voltage increases the heat a lot. I'm going for quiet and stable over max speed.


----------



## GeToChKn

So being bored and wanting lower socket temps, I took the fan off the back of my MB, got a few degrees lower. It was just blowing the heat around more than cooling anything. Then I replaced my fan in the front with a 120mm.



Much better. The MAX temps were before removing the back fan and replacing the front fan



The current temps were right before my set of IBT finished. Few degrees on the CPU but 7c on the socket is nice.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> It was just blowing the heat around more than cooling anything. Then I replaced my fan in the front with a 120mm.


Yeah, you need ventilation and cool air on the backside too otherwise you would be just blowing around hot air.







The 120mm fan looks good, how are you suspending it ?

The case I made is a double full tower (also serves as an end table) so I have lots of cold air on the backside.


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Yeah, you need ventilation and cool air on the backside too otherwise you would be just blowing around hot air.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 120mm fan looks good, how are you suspending it ?
> 
> The case I made is a double full tower (also serves as an end table) so I have lots of cold air on the backside.


I like my case closed don't want to drill into my side panel. It's the socket temps, or whatever they are, they keep killing me. Core temps don't go up much when I overclock, it's just the socket temps that shoot right up and no amount of fans really seems to help.


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> I like my case closed don't want to drill into my side panel. It's the socket temps, or whatever they are, they keep killing me. Core temps don't go up much when I overclock, it's just the socket temps that shoot right up and no amount of fans really seems to help.


My socket was what was killing me too. My h100i dropped my core temps drastically but only a minor improvement with the socket over my 212 evo I had. I didn't want to remove my back side panel at all because like you I liked my back side panel. I bit the bullet and ended up taking off my back side panel and rigged a fan onto the back blowing air both on the socket and the back vrms. It lowered my socket temp by 10c. It's really the best way to cool it off.

I know it sucks to do it and it isn't elegant, but if you really want to OC its really the best thing to do.

I'm currently trying to think of a way I can cut a nice hole in my back side panel to allow the fan to fit through it because I really want my panel back...


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> My socket was what was killing me too. My h100i dropped my core temps drastically but only a minor improvement with the socket over my 212 evo I had. I didn't want to remove my back side panel at all because like you I liked my back side panel. I bit the bullet and ended up taking off my back side panel and rigged a fan onto the back blowing air both on the socket and the back vrms. It lowered my socket temp by 10c. It's really the best way to cool it off.
> 
> I know it sucks to do it and it isn't elegant, but if you really want to OC its really the best thing to do.
> 
> I'm currently trying to think of a way I can cut a nice hole in my back side panel to allow the fan to fit through it because I really want my panel back...


Do you have a pic of how you attached it and anyone else want to share photos of the vrm fans?


----------



## BlockLike

Question about safe temps for VCORE-1

Ran a successful IBT test on my 4.8 OC @ 1.48v

Socket maxed at 57C, Core 48C

VCORE-1 maxed 65C

Are there any recommended safe temps to stay within for VCORE-1?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> Question about safe temps for VCORE-1
> 
> Ran a successful IBT test on my 4.8 OC @ 1.48v
> 
> Socket maxed at 57C, Core 48C
> 
> VCORE-1 maxed 65C
> 
> Are there any recommended safe temps to stay within for VCORE-1?


VCORE-1 on your board should be the VRM temperature. 65*C isn't a problem, but you can put fan(s) on the VRM/NB heatsink or watercool (see my sig) them to keep them in check if you want to go farther


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> I like my case closed don't want to drill into my side panel. It's the socket temps, or whatever they are, they keep killing me. Core temps don't go up much when I overclock, it's just the socket temps that shoot right up and no amount of fans really seems to help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> My socket was what was killing me too. My h100i dropped my core temps drastically but only a minor improvement with the socket over my 212 evo I had. I didn't want to remove my back side panel at all because like you I liked my back side panel. I bit the bullet and ended up taking off my back side panel and rigged a fan onto the back blowing air both on the socket and the back vrms. It lowered my socket temp by 10c. It's really the best way to cool it off.
> 
> I know it sucks to do it and it isn't elegant, but if you really want to OC its really the best thing to do.
> 
> I'm currently trying to think of a way I can cut a nice hole in my back side panel to allow the fan to fit through it because I really want my panel back...


I did a search on my posts on the forum to find my little log on the side panel mod.
Oh my god I made a lot of posts since then.









But I did find it.

Here ya go:
Side panel mod


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> Question about safe temps for VCORE-1
> 
> Ran a successful IBT test on my 4.8 OC @ 1.48v
> 
> Socket maxed at 57C, Core 48C
> 
> VCORE-1 maxed 65C
> 
> Are there any recommended safe temps to stay within for VCORE-1?


Depending on the brand of mosfets used on your particular motherboard the vrm's can go as high as 90C to 130C
So you are perfectly fine.

For personal preferences I like to have mine below 80C


----------



## GeToChKn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Depending on the brand of mosfets used on your particular motherboard the vrm's can go as high as 90C to 130C
> So you are perfectly fine.
> 
> For personal preferences I like to have mine below 80C


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Do you have a pic of how you attached it?


So is the socket temp on the m5a99x the socket or the VRM's? I'm confused to all the different temps. lol.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> So is the socket temp on the m5a99x the socket or the VRM's? I'm confused to all the different temps. lol.


im sure u cant get vrm temp on that board

put a screenshot on here and we tell u what each one is


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> im sure u cant get vrm temp on that board
> 
> put a screenshot on here and we tell u what each one is


This ^^


----------



## alanQtrmaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GeToChKn*
> 
> Do you have a pic of how you attached it and anyone else want to share photos of the vrm fans?


There are a couple of ways to attach a fan to cool VRM/Mofets.

You can ziptie it to the rear fan using the screw holes on both fans.

or if you water cooled zip tie them to the water line.


----------



## Mega Man

or double sided tape, any way you can, i have set them on my gpu, wedged them in


----------



## dyingpie1

Hi guys,
I recently overclocked my FX 8350 to 4.8 GHZ at 1.493750 volts to the CPU. I just stressed tested it for 13 hours and the max got to 64 degrees Celsius! But it didn't seem to stay there too long because when I woke up it was at 52 Degrees Celsius. Is this an OK temperature? Should I downclock the CPU at all so I can achieve a cooler max? Thanks!


----------



## BlockLike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyingpie1*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I recently overclocked my FX 8350 to 4.8 GHZ at 1.493750 volts to the CPU. I just stressed tested it for 13 hours and the max got to 64 degrees Celsius! But it didn't seem to stay there too long because when I woke up it was at 52 Degrees Celsius. Is this an OK temperature? Should I downclock the CPU at all so I can achieve a cooler max? Thanks!


if that's the max core temp, then the recommended temp to keep within is 62C

However, the recommended temp to keep within for the socket is 72C

Personally, that's a bit warm for my liking. I don't like either temps getting over 60C

What kind of cooling are you using?


----------



## dyingpie1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> if that's the max core temp, then the recommended temp to keep within is 62C
> 
> However, the recommended temp to keep within for the socket is 72C
> 
> Personally, that's a bit warm for my liking. I don't like either temps getting over 60C
> 
> What kind of cooling are you using?


I am using a Corsair h100i watercooling. I am getting Noctua fans for it soon so that my lower temps.


----------



## BlockLike

was that temp the core or socket?

were the fans at max?

what is your ambient case temp?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyingpie1*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I recently overclocked my FX 8350 to 4.8 GHZ at 1.493750 volts to the CPU. I just stressed tested it for 13 hours and the max got to 64 degrees Celsius! But it didn't seem to stay there too long because when I woke up it was at 52 Degrees Celsius. Is this an OK temperature? Should I downclock the CPU at all so I can achieve a cooler max? Thanks!


You're sitting pretty, good sir. Assuming you've tested the volts (by the way, how are you getting that precise on the measurements?) to lowest stable I'd say you have a solid OC. For some more head room lap the 8350 if you haven't - I saw almost 10*C improvement on my (now replaced with custom) H100i at that clock by doing it from the improved mating

As long as you aren't BOINC/Fold/Mining with it those momentary spikes IME only come up during stressing. I take the 62*C as sacred but I bet it was just a split second spike and if no workers failed - job done!


----------



## dyingpie1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> You're sitting pretty, good sir. Assuming you've tested the volts (by the way, how are you getting that precise on the measurements?) to lowest stable I'd say you have a solid OC. For some more head room lap the 8350 if you haven't - I saw almost 10*C improvement on my (now replaced with custom) H100i at that clock by doing it from the improved mating
> 
> As long as you aren't BOINC/Fold/Mining with it those momentary spikes IME only come up during stressing. I take the 62*C as sacred but I bet it was just a split second spike and if no workers failed - job done!


Oops I meant to say thats the manual voltage I set in the BIOS. How should I test the volts? What software should I use? (Sorry I'm a noob and this my first time overclocking). Also what does improved mating mean? Ya I think you're probably right that it was a momenatary heat spike. Thanks!


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyingpie1*
> 
> Oops I meant to say thats the manual voltage I set in the BIOS. How should I test the volts? What software should I use? (Sorry I'm a noob and this my first time overclocking). Also what does improved mating mean? Ya I think you're probably right that it was a momenatary heat spike. Thanks!


Try HWInfo64 to monitor your volts. The reality is that it won't be accurate - nor will what you set voltage to on your motherboard. You need a high end multimeter to actually tell what voltage your CPU is getting. That said - the measurements you get from HWInfo64 at least are consistent so even if they aren't exactly true (same with all software monitoring) they are at least repeatable

About lapping ... The Integrated Heat Sink (the zinc-plated metal cover you see on top of the die of the CPU when you look at your chip) (IHS) on the 8350 is dome shaped. You won't get proper seating of the cooler to the CPU without making the top of the 8350 flat - this should be apparent by looking at the build-up of Thermal Interface Material (aka thermal paste) (TIM) on your chip when you remove your cooler - ideally it should be almost entirely pushed away from the mating surfaces. You lap your CPU by sanding it flat on a flat surface - post mid-century glass works fine as a surface to do this on. Start with 400 grit sand paper and you will see that the middle of the IHS is the first to sand through the zinc into the underlying copper. You use the 400 until the whole IHS is copper, then step up to higher grit papers like 800, 1200 and 2000. Eventually the IHS will be flat and you'll be able to see your reflection in it.


(what you see on the chip is a reflection of a white wall with a painting on it)


----------



## dyingpie1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Try HWInfo64 to monitor your volts. The reality is that it won't be accurate - nor will what you set voltage to on your motherboard. You need a high end multimeter to actually tell what voltage your CPU is getting. That said - the measurements you get from HWInfo64 at least are consistent so even if they aren't exactly true (same with all software monitoring) they are at least repeatable
> 
> About lapping ... The Integrated Heat Sink (the zinc-plated metal cover you see on top of the die of the CPU when you look at your chip) (IHS) on the 8350 is dome shaped. You won't get proper seating of the cooler to the CPU without making the top of the 8350 flat - this should be apparent by looking at the build-up of Thermal Interface Material (aka thermal paste) (TIM) on your chip when you remove your cooler - ideally it should be almost entirely pushed away from the mating surfaces. You lap your CPU by sanding it flat on a flat surface - post mid-century glass works fine as a surface to do this on. Start with 400 grit sand paper and you will see that the middle of the IHS is the first to sand through the zinc into the underlying copper. You use the 400 until the whole IHS is copper, then step up to higher grit papers like 800, 1200 and 2000. Eventually the IHS will be flat and you'll be able to see your reflection in it.
> 
> 
> (what you see on the chip is a reflection of a white wall with a painting on it)


Ok I see what you mean by lapping. But is there a reason why they have the heat sink on the CPU that way. Why doesn't AMD just do that for you? Is it dangerous? Is there a downside?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockLike*
> 
> was that temp the core or socket?
> 
> were the fans at max?
> 
> what is your ambient case temp?


That was core temp. Socket reached like 75 degrees celsius.

Well I have it set to go faster the hotter it gets.

I will get back to you on the ambient temp.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Ok I see what you mean by lapping. But is there a reason why they have the heat sink on the CPU that way. Why doesn't AMD just do that for you? Is it dangerous? Is there a downside?


The other side of the equation is the heatsink. Some are concave, some convex and some perfectly flat. It could be most of AMDs stock hsf are concave, plus they use a thick coating of thermal paste. All this is fine if youre running at stock speeds. However, when you overclock youre in a different ball game, and every tiny little bit can help.









Quote:


> post mid-century glass works fine as a surface to do this on.


Heh, yeah. You dont want to use any glass from the 1700's to lap on.


----------



## miklkit

Yeah, I lapped my 8350 and it was quite concave, and it did make a difference.


----------



## dyingpie1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> The other side of the equation is the heatsink. Some are concave, some convex and some perfectly flat. It could be most of AMDs stock hsf are concave, plus they use a thick coating of thermal paste. All this is fine if youre running at stock speeds. However, when you overclock youre in a different ball game, and every tiny little bit can help.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Heh, yeah. You dont want to use any glass from the 1700's to lap on.


Is it in any way dangerous?


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyingpie1*
> 
> Is it in any way dangerous?


Well ... you probably won't be eligible for any warrantee claims







And if you have a few of them in the drawer you might get your chips confused









Really the only danger I see is bending the pins. I dd notice some damage, which was to my fingertips getting raw. I did it with my bare hands and my pins didn't get bent at all


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

I've noticed some people playing around with settings like Power Phase and Power Response control and was wondering if that might boost my stability in any way. I tried playing around with some of those power settings the BIOS doesn't mention but didn't notice a difference. If anyone can explain the more complex BIOS tweaking I would appreciate it. I'm gonna upgrade to an 8350 in a week or so and would like to see if I can push the limit on my 6100 before it finds a new home. I'm currently at 4.1GHz @ 1.38v, everything is set like the guide says, multi only.
Cheers.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Really the only danger I see is bending the pins. I dd notice some damage, which was to my fingertips getting raw. I did it with my bare hands and my pins didn't get bent at all


Push the pins into some closed cell styrofoam cut to the size of the cpu.


----------



## SandyClaws

Hi there,

these are my settings how it's shown at the first page. One question though - is everything done right & what stands T.Probe and C.Probe for at CPU Power Duty Control ? T is for thermal, C is for the VRM Current. no more options, there isnt such thing as "Extreme" or so. What should I do ? Let it on T.Probe for now..


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SandyClaws*
> 
> Hi there,
> 
> these are my settings how it's shown at the first page. One question though - is everything done right & what stands T.Probe and C.Probe for at CPU Power Duty Control ? T is for thermal, C is for the VRM Current. no more options, there isnt such thing as "Extreme" or so. What should I do ? Let it on T.Probe for now..


yes,

with good cooling on vrm i alwas left it to current


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dyingpie1*
> 
> Is it in any way dangerous?


There is a slight risk of ESD which can damage your chip.
Plus if you dry sand the IHS there is the possibility of fine copper getting inside the cpu, there are small gaps between the cpu and the IHS.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> There is a slight risk of ESD which can damage your chip.


Good point, you dont want to be lapping the cpu on carpet with leather shoes on. A bare concrete floor is where you want to lap, for many reasons, assuming you dont want to work outdoors on a cold ground.


----------



## SandyClaws

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes,
> 
> with good cooling on vrm i alwas left it to current


Ok but I dont think my cooling is sufficient. During Idle HWiNFO says that the VRM temps from the Asus EC are at 50-60 deg c.

Turned CnC back on since I've got 4.2 stable (stock VID







)


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Good point, you dont want to be lapping the cpu on carpet with leather shoes on. A bare concrete floor is where you want to lap, for many reasons, assuming you dont want to work outdoors on a cold ground.


I am not talking about the ESD coming from yourself.
You can imagine sliding the cpu itself creates allot of friction and thus it can build up a decent amount of static.

A quick Google search came up with this link, a ESD killed cpu caused by lapping. Be sure to wet sand always.
http://www.overclock.net/t/227066/lapping-killed-my-cpu


----------



## Nisrock7863

Just wanted to take a moment to say a giant thank you for this excellent guide, and specifically for the turbo overclock section. It's made finding a balance between acceptable temps and high performance infinitely easier. I'm running an FX 8320 on an Asus M5A99FX Pro 2.0 motherboard, and I've got it rock solid at 4/4.3/4.6GHz with a 233MHz FSB. I don't like heating my whole apartment with just my CPU, so that's as far as I'm going, but I'm very, very happy with the performance improvement I got out of the simple steps in this guide.

I did take it as high as 245MHz FSB for clocks of 4.3/4.55/4.65, but I could feel the change in the room temperature, so I decided to back off. My Hyper 212 Evo has a hard time keeping up at that level, as does my air conditioner. Besides, I don't notice that much performance improvement over the 233MHz FSB.


----------



## SinX7

This should be fine on my Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0?


----------



## Noufel

Hi everyone

8320 4.5 ghz 1.34 Vcore
LLC on hight
CPU current capabilities 130 %
CPU power phase controle optimized
after a 30 min run on OCCT temps are 50 on the socket and 42 on the core ( h100i push HAF X case)
are those good temps ? and can i activate the CnQ option when overclocking ?
many thanks


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> are those good temps ?


Yes, but you can get your socket temps lower with a fan on the back of the mobo.
Quote:


> and can i activate the CnQ option when overclocking ?


Sure. Enable CnC, C1E and C6. Set voltages to offset instead of using fixed voltages.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Hey guys.
I was very excited when I got my 8350, but when I started overclocking I quickly got disappointed: I set the vcore at the standard 1.356 and tweaked all the other settings according to the guide and that already put my socket temps at 72C, which is not right giving that my core temp was nearly 20C lower. I'm afraid it's my VRMs heating it up. I tried putting a 140mm fan on the back of the MB but that didn't change my temps at all. What else could I try to cool things down?


----------



## SinX7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I was very excited when I got my 8350, but when I started overclocking I quickly got disappointed: I set the vcore at the standard 1.356 and tweaked all the other settings according to the guide and that already put my socket temps at 72C, which is not right giving that my core temp was nearly 20C lower. I'm afraid it's my VRMs heating it up. I tried putting a 140mm fan on the back of the MB but that didn't change my temps at all. What else could I try to cool things down?


What is your room temp?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I was very excited when I got my 8350, but when I started overclocking I quickly got disappointed: I set the vcore at the standard 1.356 and tweaked all the other settings according to the guide and that already put my socket temps at 72C, which is not right giving that my core temp was nearly 20C lower. I'm afraid it's my VRMs heating it up. I tried putting a 140mm fan on the back of the MB but that didn't change my temps at all. What else could I try to cool things down?


If your running the cooling solution listed in your rig sig that would be the reason why.

You'll find there isn't much else that builds heat like an 8350 (when OCing especially) but without more of your systems current setup it's hard to say.

At this point I'm thinking a lack of cooling/air flow.
Without a lot of air flow you could have some heat soaking going on too.

It would help everyone if you'd update your rig sig too.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> If your running the cooling solution listed in your rig sig that would be the reason why.
> 
> You'll find there isn't much else that builds heat like an 8350 (when OCing especially) but without more of your systems current setup it's hard to say.
> 
> At this point I'm thinking a lack of cooling/air flow.
> Without a lot of air flow you could have some heat soaking going on too.
> 
> It would help everyone if you'd update your rig sig too.


Did I forget to put the 8350 in my sig? My bad.
Still have the same cooler with original fan and 120mm CM Sickleflow as front intake, 140mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWM as top exhaust and a random 120mm 1800rpm fan salvaged from a dead PSU as rear exhaust. Cooler takes air in from the bottom.
My main concern is not the actual socket temp but how much higher it is than the core. I remember reading on this thread at some point that it shouldn't be more than 15C higher so 20C higher seems really bad.
Edit: the case has no side panels on.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Did I forget to put the 8350 in my sig? My bad.
> Still have the same cooler with original fan and 120mm CM Sickleflow as front intake, 140mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWM as top exhaust and a random 120mm 1800rpm fan salvaged from a dead PSU as rear exhaust. Cooler takes air in from the bottom.
> My main concern is not the actual socket temp but how much higher it is than the core. I remember reading on this thread at some point that it shouldn't be more than 15C higher so 20C higher seems really bad.
> Edit: the case has no side panels on.


What is happening is not enough heat is being dissipated and bottle necking at the base of the HS creating the higher socket temps.
You might try re-seating the HS but I doubt very seriously you'll see big gains at all. It's only a four pipe HS. You might want to look at a Noctura D14 as something more suitable if you're hoping to OC and maintain temps.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I was very excited when I got my 8350, but when I started overclocking I quickly got disappointed: I set the vcore at the standard 1.356 and tweaked all the other settings according to the guide and that already put my socket temps at 72C, which is not right giving that my core temp was nearly 20C lower. I'm afraid it's my VRMs heating it up. I tried putting a 140mm fan on the back of the MB but that didn't change my temps at all. What else could I try to cool things down?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Did I forget to put the 8350 in my sig? My bad.
> Still have the same cooler with original fan and 120mm CM Sickleflow as front intake, 140mm Bitfenix Spectre Pro PWM as top exhaust and a random 120mm 1800rpm fan salvaged from a dead PSU as rear exhaust. Cooler takes air in from the bottom.
> My main concern is not the actual socket temp but how much higher it is than the core. I remember reading on this thread at some point that it shouldn't be more than 15C higher so 20C higher seems really bad.
> Edit: the case has no side panels on.
> 
> 
> 
> What is happening is not enough heat is being dissipated and bottle necking at the base of the HS creating the higher socket temps.
> You might try re-seating the HS but I doubt very seriously you'll see big gains at all. It's only a four pipe HS. You might want to look at a Noctura D14 as something more suitable if you're hoping to OC and maintain temps.
Click to expand...


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> My main concern is not the actual socket temp but how much higher it is than the core. I remember reading on this thread at some point that it shouldn't be more than 15C higher so 20C higher seems really bad.
> Edit: the case has no side panels on.


You should put a fan on the vrms too.

My core temps are always higher than my socket temps. I have a fan on the vrms, which is also slightly angled towards the base of the cpu socket, and I have a 92mm fan on the back of the mobo blowing cool air in the area of the socket and vrms.


----------



## Liveblue23

well i just got done using this guide and i got up to 4700 with the stock voltage but i went up to 4800 and i ran prime95 but noticed only 6 cores where at full load the other 2 were hovering around 13 to 20 %? not sure whats up with that? also i ran heaven bench and im getting lower stats accross the board from my stock settings?

extra note. i did however run the 3d mark fire strike test and got 5860 default settings and 6277 at the 4700 clock mark.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liveblue23*
> 
> well i just got done using this guide and i got up to 4700 with the stock voltage but i went up to 4800 and i ran prime95 but noticed only 6 cores where at full load the other 2 were hovering around 13 to 20 %? not sure whats up with that? also i ran heaven bench and im getting lower stats accross the board from my stock settings?
> 
> extra note. i did however run the 3d mark fire strike test and got 5860 default settings and 6277 at the 4700 clock mark.


Please fill your rig sig http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig so we all know what your working with.
4.8 stock voltage? Prime95 is probably failing due to instability. This is what your seeing with the two cores dropping off. They're no longer working because they failed the test.

I can't help further without more of your system info.


----------



## Liveblue23

ok thanks for the info. i updated my info and sig. id love more input.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Liveblue23*
> 
> ok thanks for the info. i updated my info and sig. id love more input.


I just noticed you're new here, Welcome!

Thank you for filling it out! Now we all know your system is capable with your current mobo and cooling solution. It's up to you to find those limits. This takes time if you're looking to optimize your setup so be forewarned.

You tested using Prime95, was this the first failure you've seen? If so how long did P95 run until you saw this failure?
The previous test you ran that hopefully you passed, how long did that test run?
It's not uncommon to see a need for a slight/fair increase in Vcore between 4.5 and 4.7 to maintain stability. 4.8 will definitely not happen at near stock voltages most are running much closer to 1.48 to 1.5v Vcore to be anywhere near stable (24 hr Prime95 stable) to give you an idea of more of the norm.

IBT AVX version also works nice (faster for quick runs before running P95) to find instability. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
You'd want to keep test "results" in the +xxx.xx side, showing a - "result" shows instability while passing 20 runs on "Max" setting all while maintaining temps. Be careful, this will create some heat.

Are all memory specs manually entered in bios etc? Would be very helpful to see a snip showing HWInfo64 with useful items showing along with CUPZ like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This would save a few questions and we could see where you are voltage wise etc.


----------



## Bagmup

I've noticed that Asus mobo M5A99FX PRO R2.0 seems to be having socket temp problems in this thread.

I've just come in here to say i have the same problem FX 8350 @ a measly 4.4Ghz see's me get to the max temp within 5 minutes of prime95

Socket - 72 celcius
Core - 50 celcius

I'm running an XSPC EX 240 rad cooling system, and the core temps are fine, but this socket temp is insane.

I can slow the rising temp by ghetto zip tying a standard cpu cooler fan onto the NB heatsink but it still ends up around 68 degrees after 20 min of prime95.

Any other tips? I was hoping to get to 4.7 - 4.8 but it's out of reach atm.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I can slow the rising temp by ghetto zip tying a standard cpu cooler fan onto the NB heatsink but it still ends up around 68 degrees after 20 min of prime95.
> 
> Any other tips? I was hoping to get to 4.7 - 4.8 but it's out of reach atm.


Theres a heatpipe between the VRM heatsink and the NB heatsink. Put the fan blowing on the VRM heatsink angled towards the base of the cpu socket. (The VRM fins are angled that way too) Also put a fan on the back of the mobo blowing on the socket and vrm area.


----------



## dogma82

I've been lurking around these forums for a while now and there is so much great information available. I'd just like to share something that I haven't seen mentioned anywhere, and I have been doing an awful lot of reading up lately because of a recent problem I had.

I had been running my 8350 @4.5ghz for some time with no issue and I had a couple of different OC profiles which I'd tinker about with occasionally. Aside from work and other projects, I had been doing some gaming and, lately, my 7850 just wasn't cutting it anymore. I found another cheap one available locally so decided to go crossfire...

I have had a terrible experience with crossfire since I got that card. I had issues in BF3/4 and Crysis 2 where my GPU usage would just drop off to ~60% on both cards (No Vsync). I tried multiple drivers to no avail (removing and installing correctly everytime). Cpu benched fine and would max out, same with both Gpus. I was at my wits end and regretted ever thinking that crossfiring these two 7850s was a sound idea.

While I was getting only ~60% usage at times in games, my Cpu usage would never go above 70% on any one core, can't be a Cpu bottleneck! I looked into the fact that the Cpu could be throttling due to VRM... all temps good, cpu monitor shows no throttling. Along with this low usage, and drops to ~30fps in BF4 (average of ~80fps), the frametimes were horrendous, it was nauseating even trying to play because of the frame lag. I was getting, on average, similar or slightly better performance of a single card.

I must have read every relevant thread I could possibly find on crossfiring and what could cause this. I could understand it if even one of my cores was maxing out, but no. So, I had a bit of time this weekend and decided I was going to figure it out once and for all...

I had previously been running a couple of different overclocks, a straightforward multi and an FSB overclock. I could discern no difference between them. Prevously, I had some trouble getting the FSB over 240 so I settled at that and it worked out quite nice for my RAM @1600mhz. I have no problem taking my chip to 4.8ghz on that same profile with a little tweaking but I didn't see the need for general usage (and , yes, I had tried gaming at this speed, absolutely no difference again!) So, I decided to take that OC a bit further.

Over the weekend, with a nice amount of free time, I focused on getting my FSB to 300mhz while keeping the Cpu speed in or around 4.5ghz. After some tweaking I managed to get this to an acceptable level of stability (no real burns yet!). I'm currently at 300x15, NB 2400mhz HT 2400mhz, temps are about the same as I get at 4.8ghz but there is some tuning to be done yet (of course).

The difference between having the FSB at 200mhz and 300mhz is night and day, I'm absolutely amazed at the change this has brought to my crossfire performance - gpus being fully utilsed, my fps does not drop below 60 in 64p BF4 with High/Ultra settings. I had read previously (AMD whitepaper I think), that increasing the HT link was advantageous for multi-gpu scenarios, but no mention of the difference the FSB can have. I can't believe that in all my reading on forums and where people have been having the exact same issue as me, that this had never been mentioned.

I just had to share my experience somewhere in the hope that someone suffering similar woes might get the best out of their setup.

Sorry if that's all a bit longwinded but I'm so happy with my setup now. Have a good day and happy OC'ing


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I can slow the rising temp by ghetto zip tying a standard cpu cooler fan onto the NB heatsink but it still ends up around 68 degrees after 20 min of prime95.
> 
> Any other tips? I was hoping to get to 4.7 - 4.8 but it's out of reach atm.
> 
> 
> 
> Theres a heatpipe between the VRM heatsink and the NB heatsink. Put the fan blowing on the VRM heatsink angled towards the base of the cpu socket. (The VRM fins are angled that way too) Also put a fan on the back of the mobo blowing on the socket and vrm area.
Click to expand...

this, and you may need a fan on the back of the mobo ~ i am working on a block for the rear socket and vrms !~ not that i need it, but it will be fun


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dogma82*
> 
> I've been lurking around these forums for a while now and there is so much great information available. I'd just like to share something that I haven't seen mentioned anywhere, and I have been doing an awful lot of reading up lately because of a recent problem I had.
> 
> I had been running my 8350 @4.5ghz for some time with no issue and I had a couple of different OC profiles which I'd tinker about with occasionally. Aside from work and other projects, I had been doing some gaming and, lately, my 7850 just wasn't cutting it anymore. I found another cheap one available locally so decided to go crossfire...
> 
> I have had a terrible experience with crossfire since I got that card. I had issues in BF3/4 and Crysis 2 where my GPU usage would just drop off to ~60% on both cards (No Vsync). I tried multiple drivers to no avail (removing and installing correctly everytime). Cpu benched fine and would max out, same with both Gpus. I was at my wits end and regretted ever thinking that crossfiring these two 7850s was a sound idea.
> 
> While I was getting only ~60% usage at times in games, my Cpu usage would never go above 70% on any one core, can't be a Cpu bottleneck! I looked into the fact that the Cpu could be throttling due to VRM... all temps good, cpu monitor shows no throttling. Along with this low usage, and drops to ~30fps in BF4 (average of ~80fps), the frametimes were horrendous, it was nauseating even trying to play because of the frame lag. I was getting, on average, similar or slightly better performance of a single card.
> 
> I must have read every relevant thread I could possibly find on crossfiring and what could cause this. I could understand it if even one of my cores was maxing out, but no. So, I had a bit of time this weekend and decided I was going to figure it out once and for all...
> 
> I had previously been running a couple of different overclocks, a straightforward multi and an FSB overclock. I could discern no difference between them. Prevously, I had some trouble getting the FSB over 240 so I settled at that and it worked out quite nice for my RAM @1600mhz. I have no problem taking my chip to 4.8ghz on that same profile with a little tweaking but I didn't see the need for general usage (and , yes, I had tried gaming at this speed, absolutely no difference again!) So, I decided to take that OC a bit further.
> 
> Over the weekend, with a nice amount of free time, I focused on getting my FSB to 300mhz while keeping the Cpu speed in or around 4.5ghz. After some tweaking I managed to get this to an acceptable level of stability (no real burns yet!). I'm currently at 300x15, NB 2400mhz HT 2400mhz, temps are about the same as I get at 4.8ghz but there is some tuning to be done yet (of course).
> 
> The difference between having the FSB at 200mhz and 300mhz is night and day, I'm absolutely amazed at the change this has brought to my crossfire performance - gpus being fully utilsed, my fps does not drop below 60 in 64p BF4 with High/Ultra settings. I had read previously (AMD whitepaper I think), that increasing the HT link was advantageous for multi-gpu scenarios, but no mention of the difference the FSB can have. I can't believe that in all my reading on forums and where people have been having the exact same issue as me, that this had never been mentioned.
> 
> I just had to share my experience somewhere in the hope that someone suffering similar woes might get the best out of their setup.
> 
> Sorry if that's all a bit longwinded but I'm so happy with my setup now. Have a good day and happy OC'ing






well, although i love my 300 fsb oc, i have run CFX with 200fsb and 300 and several in between, i have benched up to 350 fsb i have to say i never had this problem

with that said welcome to the forums !! let us know if you need any help and feel free to stick around !

be sure to build a rigbuilder ( see my sig ) !


----------



## Bagmup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this, and you may need a fan on the back of the mobo ~ i am working on a block for the rear socket and vrms !~ not that i need it, but it will be fun


So i had a stock cpu cooler fan lying around, i used some double sided tape to mount it to the backplate.

Temps are now 55 Celsius at the socket and 45 at the core, much better.


----------



## dogma82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> well, although i love my 300 fsb oc, i have run CFX with 200fsb and 300 and several in between, i have benched up to 350 fsb i have to say i never had this problem
> 
> with that said welcome to the forums !! let us know if you need any help and feel free to stick around !
> 
> be sure to build a rigbuilder ( see my sig ) !


Maybe it's an issue with CFX on my board? I don't know, but raising the FSB most definitely had a massive impact on CFX performance - night and day I tells ya! It was like going from my old Q6600 @3.6ghz to this 8350 with a HD6970









Believe me, I had exhausted every other avenue on this one and was so close to giving up. For sure, there could be something else at play here and somehow the high FSB is counteracting that, but this is what solved my particular problem with my particular setup - undoubtedly.

Well, thanks for the welcome anyways. I'll be sure to ask any questions or contribute anything I can, seems like a nice community. I just created my sig there too. I just put in the prices I paid for everything so, well, it's not worth what it says it's worth...


----------



## superkeest

I used this guide last night and got my fx 8320 to 4.7ghz @ 1.386 v but froze during prime95.

4.5ghz seemed stable, ran 15 min of prime, was up to 62 C socket and 42C package with a 212 evo push/pull. Seems like temps are fine, so i thought i could go higher. Also i noticed i accidentally left the voltage on auto. so thats how i arrived at 1.386v would i be better off manually adjusting the voltage? do you guys think i could hit 4.7 or even 5?

5ghz started to boot, but froze at the windows 7 swirling colors.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superkeest*
> 
> I used this guide last night and got my fx 8320 to 4.7ghz @ 1.386 v but froze during prime95.
> 
> 4.5ghz seemed stable, ran 15 min of prime, was up to 62 C socket and 42C package with a 212 evo push/pull. Seems like temps are fine, so i thought i could go higher. Also i noticed i accidentally left the voltage on auto. so thats how i arrived at 1.386v would i be better off manually adjusting the voltage? do you guys think i could hit 4.7 or even 5?
> 
> 5ghz started to boot, but froze at the windows 7 swirling colors.


Welcome to OCN!

It takes a lot more than 15 minutes of Prime95 to be calling it stable, or to gauge temps.
Most consider a minimum of 12 to 24 hours of Prime95 to be stable.
Prime95 hits only the first maximum spike temp reading at the 15 min mark. There's another at the 1 hour make followed by a few more after that.

For better temp check stressing try IBT AVX on max for a minimum of 20 passes.
http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202

Be warned, the 212 may not hold under these loads! Watch your temps VERY closely.

As far as reaching 5GHz on a 212? Usually not happening unless you live in the arctic









The more you manually enter into the bios the better off you'll be. Vcore, CPU/NB, LLC and all Dram specs at a minimum should be entered IMHO.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I used this guide last night and got my fx 8320 to 4.7ghz @ 1.386 v but froze during prime95.


Thats pretty decent on that voltage, but I believe youll have to go to 1.45 volts to make it stable. That will pretty well be maxing out the 212 evo with 2 fans on the 8320.

After finding stability, turn on CnC and C6 so that youll be nice and low and cool at idle and low loads.







Youll need to input your voltages in offset mode to take advantage of CnC.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Red, read, re-read-and red again..got it..tweaked it to 4.8Ghz @ 1.44v, stable on IBT, max temp 58C all 8 cores......very informative guide to boot .

Ohh "IT" is below flashing at you..sort of done not with the specs.

http://valid.canardpc.com/lfxmib


----------



## mkadi

Hi everyone, i am a total newbie when it comes to overclocking. I have been playing games over 13 years on pc but never tried to oc.
My question is can i oc my cpu to 4.0-4.2ghz without changing voltage. I tried every possible way on the net but my socket temps keeps getting over 60 degrees so i stop prime95
my board is sabertooth 990fx r2.0 and cpu 8320. as for cooling i am using hyper 212 evo.
idle temps on stock clock 33C, with prime95 it is around 51C. (by the way i am looking at the value just besides cpu not package on hwmonitor.
but when i try to overclock with the manuals on the web it stables around 63C which is max for amd chips i belive.
So my question is, are my stock degrees too high to begin with or i am doing something wrong with the oc. (i used jayztwocents video for oc)

http://i.imgur.com/mwnUCyA.png

i have read the manual in the first page, since i have never done this before i am not sure i get it at all, lol


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> idle temps on stock clock 33C, with prime95 it is around 51C.


What were your voltages at stock ?

Use HWiNFO64 instead of HWMonitor, especially on Asus boards.


----------



## mkadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> What were your voltages at stock ?
> 
> Use HWiNFO64 instead of HWMonitor, especially on Asus boards.


ok. i have done every setting in the first page of the thread. and set my ratio to 20 which gives 4.0ghz. ran the prime95 and my temps stabled at 71 on cpu and 61 on package on default volt in hwmonitor. So those temps are not good, i should not try to go further?


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> So those temps are not good, i should not try to go further?


Yeah, you should be able to do a little bit better with the EVO. What are your voltages set at ?
If below 1.45 v, then I think I would remount the 212 EVO. A second fan on it would help by 1-2 C.


----------



## mkadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> What were your voltages at stock ?
> 
> Use HWiNFO64 instead of HWMonitor, especially on Asus boards.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Yeah, you should be able to do a little bit better with the EVO. What are your voltages set at ?
> If below 1.45 v, then I think I would remount the 212 EVO. A second fan on it would help by 1-2 C.


it is in stock volt which is 1.325 i belive. i'll try a little bit more see what happens.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> it is in stock volt which is 1.325 i belive


You cant just guess at voltages, heh. Either HWiNFO64 or CPU-Z will tell you.







If the voltages are that low, then you do have a mounting problem with the EVO.

(or the EVO is defective in some way, ie the fluid leaked out of the pipes)


----------



## mkadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> You cant just guess at voltages, heh. Either HWiNFO64 or CPU-Z will tell you.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the voltages are that low, then you do have a mounting problem with the EVO.
> 
> (or the EVO is defective in some way, ie the fluid leaked out of the pipes)


i am suspecting too much thermal paste...but stock temps are not that bad. idle 33 and with prime95 max 51. i am not sure a mounting problem or not. the voltage was 1.325.

right now i am trying 1.375 and 22 multiplier 4.4ghz. idle is 44 and prime95 is definetly over max temps for the chip.


----------



## mkadi

am i missing something?


----------



## mkadi

reapplying thermal paste...it might be the problem.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mkadi*
> 
> 
> 
> am i missing something?


i was going to say tim,

with that said why does everyone downclock cpu/nb !!! LEAVE IT STOCK @!


----------



## mkadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i was going to say tim,
> 
> with that said why does everyone downclock cpu/nb !!! LEAVE IT STOCK @!


excuse me what do you mean by that? i followed the first page of this thread.


----------



## Mega Man

my apologies, i was thinking HT not CPU/NB


----------



## mkadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> my apologies, i was thinking HT not CPU/NB


again sorry i am really new to oc, is there something wrong with my oc values except temps?


----------



## Mega Man

no, i miss read what i did, and miss thought,


----------



## superkeest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Thats pretty decent on that voltage, but I believe youll have to go to 1.45 volts to make it stable. That will pretty well be maxing out the 212 evo with 2 fans on the 8320.
> 
> After finding stability, turn on CnC and C6 so that youll be nice and low and cool at idle and low loads.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Youll need to input your voltages in offset mode to take advantage of CnC.


Yea i decided to just go with 4.0ghz, haven't had a single issue since. Was really just trying to see how high i could go. And honestly i couldn't tell the difference between 3.5 and 4.7 as far as snappiness. this chip is pretty quick. thanks guys.


----------



## kaiwei

You never said what to do if u start throttling... plz reply


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaiwei*
> 
> You never said what to do if u start throttling... plz reply


What motherboard do you have?


----------



## Mega Man

pretty sure he is a spam bot


----------



## jason387

Can increasing cpu nb voltage help stabilize overclocks?


----------



## Mega Man

it can


----------



## jason387

What if I running the nb and ht link at 2000Mhz and I have my cou nb voltage at 1.22v, is that enough to stabilize 4.6-4.7Ghz?


----------



## Mega Man

should be but why gimp your cpu but down clocking your ht ?


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> should be but why gimp your cpu but down clocking your ht ?


whats the stock ht and nb for the 6300? My default in the bios is 2000Mhz.


----------



## cpmee

The HT stock speed depends on the motherboard, either 2400 or 2600. NB stock is 2200.


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Can increasing cpu nb voltage help stabilize overclocks?


I think it depends on your motherboard and also possibly on your memory. On my Sabertooth with my Team group Vulcan RAM I see zero benefit from increasing CPU NB voltage. I run mine at stock or just one tick above (1.19375V) due to the auto setting putting it at 1.4V (offset voltage). That being said, I see overclocking benefits from turning down my RAM speeds, at 1333MHz RAM I can hit 4.9 with some stability (at least Very High in IBT AVX). But then almost every benchmark suffers, I'm not at all much higher at 4.9 GHz and 1333 MHz RAM compared to 4.6GHz and 2133MHz ram. I think this is due to the caches being quite slow on this AMD chip. But I dont really know, only what my bench results say. I'm planning to borrowing two 1600Mhz ECC RAM sticks from my server to test with, some people say that two sticks overclock better than four (I run 4x8GB now).

I think it has been talked about before in this thread about RAM voltage, the ECC sticks I plan to test with are DDR3L, i.e. 1.35V. That might be a factor too, I'll report any interesting findings.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> I think it depends on your motherboard and also possibly on your memory. On my Sabertooth with my Team group Vulcan RAM I see zero benefit from increasing CPU NB voltage. I run mine at stock or just one tick above due to the auto setting putting it at 1.4 V (offset voltage). That being said, I see overclocking benefits from turning down my RAM speeds, at 1333MHz RAM I can hit 4.9 with some stability (at least Very High in IBT AVX). But then almost every benchmark suffers, I'm not at all much higher at 4.9 GHz and 1333 MHz RAM compared to 4.6GHz and 2133MHz ram. I think this is due to the caches being quite slow on this AMD chip. But I dont really know, only what my bench results say. I'm planning to borrowing two 1600Mhz ECC RAM sticks from my server to test with, some people say that two sticks overclock better than four (I run 4x8GB now).
> 
> I think it has been talked about before in this thread about RAM voltage, the ECC sticks I plan to test with are DDR3L, i.e. 1.35V. That might be a factor too, I'll report any interesting findings.


Nice read


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Nice read


Thanks. I like to have a large amount of RAM. Although, I did some testing and my CPU overclocking kinda suffers from having four 8GB sticks. The IMC seems to have a hard time with high frequencies and lots of RAM. If I only use two 8GB sticks my CPU overclock is much more stable. With two 4GB 2133MHz sticks I'm stable at 4.8GHz, not really with two 8's. And i kinda want that RAM, gotten used to that 32 by now. I've been thinking about testing with that ECC for a while, will probably get the sticks next week.


----------



## kaiwei

i have an asus a99 pro


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Can increasing cpu nb voltage help stabilize overclocks?
> 
> 
> 
> I think it depends on your motherboard and also possibly on your memory. On my Sabertooth with my Team group Vulcan RAM I see zero benefit from increasing CPU NB voltage. I run mine at stock or just one tick above due to the auto setting putting it at 1.4 V (offset voltage). That being said, I see overclocking benefits from turning down my RAM speeds, at 1333MHz RAM I can hit 4.9 with some stability (at least Very High in IBT AVX). But then almost every benchmark suffers, I'm not at all much higher at 4.9 GHz and 1333 MHz RAM compared to 4.6GHz and 2133MHz ram. I think this is due to the caches being quite slow on this AMD chip. But I dont really know, only what my bench results say. I'm planning to borrowing two 1600Mhz ECC RAM sticks from my server to test with, some people say that two sticks overclock better than four (I run 4x8GB now).
> 
> I think it has been talked about before in this thread about RAM voltage, the ECC sticks I plan to test with are DDR3L, i.e. 1.35V. That might be a factor too, I'll report any interesting findings.
Click to expand...

1 ( this is why you see little to no benifit from cpu/nb )
what are you doing @ 1.4v cpu /nb that is alotta heat. most can do 2600 @ 1.2-1.3v ! stock is ~1.1 iirc

( SEE BELOW )

2
8 gb sticks are extremely hard on the imc

3
FOUR sticks are extremely hard on the imc

4
the combination of 2+3 is even harder AND YOU MAY VERY WELL NEED 1.4v cpu/nb

i will also add the only way i can get extremely good scores are @ 2700+ cpu/nb ( with 2400 ram ) , although i have seen two ( one was not much ) better, it may be the fact they both use 4gb sticks ( and only 2 ) idk yet


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what are you doing @ 1.4v cpu /nb that is alotta heat. most can do 2600 @ 1.2-1.3v ! stock is ~1.1 iirc


? I said that I run my CPU NB at stock or just one tick above. That's 1.1875 Volts at stock and one tick above is 1.19375V. The Auto setting in bios sets it at 1.4V, and I see no benefit from that. I can't overclock any higher at 1.4V CPU NB than I can at stock. I've tried 1.5V CPU NB, no benefit there either. I'm almost stable at 4.8GHz and 32GB of 2133MHz RAM, but only almost. Rock solid at 4.6GHz and have very nice temps, under 50C at everything but ordinary IBT or prime.

And I absolutely agree that four 8GB sticks are hard on the IMC, I thought I pretty much said that


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what are you doing @ 1.4v cpu /nb that is alotta heat. most can do 2600 @ 1.2-1.3v ! stock is ~1.1 iirc
> 
> 
> 
> ? I said that I run my CPU NB at stock or just one tick above. That's 1.1875 Volts at stock and one tick above is 1.19375V. The Auto setting in bios sets it at 1.4V, and I see no benefit from that. I can't overclock any higher at 1.4V CPU NB than I can at stock. I've tried 1.5V CPU NB, no benefit there either. I'm almost stable at 4.8GHz and 32GB of 2133MHz RAM, but only almost. Rock solid at 4.6GHz and have very nice temps, under 50C at everything but ordinary IBT or prime.
> 
> And I absolutely agree that four 8GB sticks are hard on the IMC, I thought I pretty much said that
Click to expand...

sorry i thought you ment "stock" was 1.4

here is what i think you could try, pull 2 sticks bump cpu/nb to 1.2 and then 1.3 and try ocing farther i bet you could. if that is the case either more cpu/nb and you can pull 4.8 or your imc is at its limits with all 4 sticks, i cant not do 2400 on one of my chips all four dimms ( have not tried with this 1229 ) even with 1.6 cpu/nb i tried lol


----------



## Pholostan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry i thought you ment "stock" was 1.4
> 
> here is what i think you could try, pull 2 sticks bump cpu/nb to 1.2 and then 1.3 and try ocing farther i bet you could. if that is the case either more cpu/nb and you can pull 4.8 or your imc is at its limits with all 4 sticks, i cant not do 2400 on one of my chips all four dimms ( have not tried with this 1229 ) even with 1.6 cpu/nb i tried lol


No worries man, it's not always easy to read what I mean









Thanks for the advice. I have tried different combinations of RAM sticks, I have a G.Skill kit with 4x4GB 2133MHz modules. Those allow a higher overclock at lower Vcore compared to my Team Xtreem Vulcan-2133MHz 4x8GB kit. Earlier I had very cheap Crucial Ballistic Sport RAM, those sticks were horrible for overclocking, even with very loose timings and low frequencies. Cheap but also crap for overclocking.

I did some more testing while I was at work today. I flashed the 2104 BIOS for my Sabertooth a couple of weeks ago for other reasons, and hadn't really tested stuff with it. It has that irritating bug when resuming from sleep (resets CPU multi to stock and turns APM and TURBO on), but what the heck. And now I see there is a newer BIOS available, 2301, just last week. Maybe that one has fixed the bug? Anyway, with 1.55V I am stable at 4.8 GHz, weee








CPU Vcore hits 1.572V under load (Ultra High LLC), a little scary but my temps are good. I disabled and killed all Asus-processes and services before testing, Turbo-EVO etc are convenient, but not very stable in my experience. The utilities crashes now and then, and the fan control-stuff glitches out in dangerous ways. I had ThermalRadar suddenly set my fans and pump to absolute minimum when the socket temp hit 50C. Not at all like what was set in the app. So I deleted it and use BIOS settings instead, works every time.

Some screens, Open Hardware Monitor and IBT AVX (green plot is Core Temp):


CPU-z:


Testing with 29GB RAM takes almost 5 hours. This is at 1.25V CPU/NB. I haven't tested more yet, maybe I will. The numbers for IBT AVX could be little higher and more even, but that's fine tuning now that the damn thing is finally stable









Anyway, this is the best yet I have managed with 32GB of 2133MHz RAM. I like it









*Edit:* Ambient temp during testing was about *18-19C*, Sunny early spring day with a window open.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pholostan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> sorry i thought you ment "stock" was 1.4
> 
> here is what i think you could try, pull 2 sticks bump cpu/nb to 1.2 and then 1.3 and try ocing farther i bet you could. if that is the case either more cpu/nb and you can pull 4.8 or your imc is at its limits with all 4 sticks, i cant not do 2400 on one of my chips all four dimms ( have not tried with this 1229 ) even with 1.6 cpu/nb i tried lol
> 
> 
> 
> No worries man, it's not always easy to read what I mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I have tried different combinations of RAM sticks, I have a G.Skill kit with 4x4GB 2133MHz modules. Those allow a higher overclock at lower Vcore compared to my Team Xtreem Vulcan-2133MHz 4x8GB kit. Earlier I had very cheap Crucial Ballistic Sport RAM, those sticks were horrible for overclocking, even with very loose timings and low frequencies. Cheap but also crap for overclocking.
> 
> I did some more testing while I was at work today. I flashed the 2104 BIOS for my Sabertooth a couple of weeks ago for other reasons, and hadn't really tested stuff with it. It has that irritating bug when resuming from sleep (resets CPU multi to stock and turns APM and TURBO on), but what the heck. And now I see there is a newer BIOS available, 2301, just last week. Maybe that one has fixed the bug? Anyway, with 1.55V I am stable at 4.8 GHz, weee
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU Vcore hits 1.572V under load (Ultra High LLC), a little scary but my temps are good. I disabled and killed all Asus-processes and services before testing, Turbo-EVO etc are convenient, but not very stable in my experience. The utilities crashes now and then, and the fan control-stuff glitches out in dangerous ways. I had ThermalRadar suddenly set my fans and pump to absolute minimum when the socket temp hit 50C. Not at all like what was set in the app. So I deleted it and use BIOS settings instead, works every time.
> 
> Some screens, Open Hardware Monitor and IBT AVX (green plot is Core Temp):
> 
> 
> CPU-z:
> 
> 
> Testing with 29GB RAM takes almost 5 hours. This is at 1.25V CPU/NB. I haven't tested more yet, maybe I will. The numbers for IBT AVX could be little higher and more even, but that's fine tuning now that the damn thing is finally stable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, this is the best yet I have managed with 32GB of 2133MHz RAM. I like it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Edit:* Ambient temp during testing was about *18-19C*, Sunny early spring day with a window open.
Click to expand...





glad it helped ! also to note, although it may of been fixed by now hwmonitor has had some issues with fx cpus, i recommend hwinfo

nothing to worry about at those volts fyi i run mine higher

i will never trust asus or any other software program for my fans, that is why i have a aquaero with its own CPU and if it stops getting infos from HWINFO it defaults to a temp i preset ( assumed temp ) which i always set high

also i would not get my hopes up about the sleep issue.

not only is it a problem across several amd mobos but also intels personally i think it is a windows issue, for me it is a non issue as i never let it go into sleep as i have SDDs and sleep does not alow them to use trim


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> It has that irritating bug when resuming from sleep (resets CPU multi to stock and turns APM and TURBO on), but what the heck. And now I see there is a newer BIOS available, 2301, just last week. Maybe that one has fixed the bug?


I have changed my sleep button to hibernate in windows and have no issues. It might take a few seconds or so longer to shut down, but when it wakes its exactly where I left off.







Oh, and hibernate saves the total amount of ram you have on the C: drive, so if you have like 32GB of ram on a 60GB SSD, you need to take that into careful consideration.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

I left my overclock stress testing for the night and when I woke up and turned on my monitors, they were saying no video input. I've never seen that before while overclocking, does it mean my OC was unstable (no surprise with 4.6GHz @ 1.387v) or did Windows/graphics drivers go nuts on me, which would be very annoying. I don't really want to sit at my screen for the whole 12 hours and it's my only computer, so I prefer to do it at night.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> I left my overclock stress testing for the night and when I woke up and turned on my monitors, they were saying no video input.


Most likely the OC failed and locked up. But windows could have messed you up. Did you have sleep mode and screen saver enabled ? If so, disable if youre going for long overnight runs.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Most likely the OC failed and locked up. But windows could have messed you up. Did you have sleep mode and screen saver enabled ? If so, disable if youre going for long overnight runs.


No and no. Guess it was just unstable.


----------



## oscardcz

Hey Guys,

i got issue with FX 8350. Running on Asus M5A88-V EVO MB with Xigmatek SD-1283 cooler. I added also fan from stock cooler to blow on VRM and additional 12cm to Xigmatec heatsink.
I hoped i can do little OC with these components. I also found some "stable" OC configuration...BUT... my processor still throttling and overheating even on stock settings with CaQ and other throttle settings it started on 62C and with these settings off on around 78C.

Is this behavior normal?
I dont know what could be wrong. I am getting frustrated









Adding my OCCT resuls:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> and with these settings off on around 78C.
> 
> Is this behavior normal?


At 78C, it should be throttling. Try reseating the heatsink.


----------



## oscardcz

Got it stable now w/o throttling on 4,4Ghz and 64C. Advice to set LLC to auto work on this model too








Ok, ill try it, Maybe i placed too much thermal paste. I hope that this heatsink can cool better than that...


----------



## bonami2

CPU Power Thermal Control - 130 Tested to 4.7Ghz (not sure what this effects)

Ai suit say 130 celsius so it look like it temp throttling but at 130c i think the board will uh


----------



## mkadi

Hi, i have followed the instructions on the firsr page. With a 8320 and cm seidon 120v, how does it look?


----------



## bonami2

with that low of voltage im impressed


----------



## mkadi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> with that low of voltage im impressed


Maybe something wrong with it? I am new to overclock, but i ran prime95 none of the cores failed.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> with that low of voltage im impressed


Same here..don't see a boot until 1.336v WOW


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mkadi*
> 
> Maybe something wrong with it? I am new to overclock, but i ran prime95 none of the cores failed.


Not at all...Lottery winner


----------



## bonami2

im at 1.45 with my fx 6300 at 4.5 im testing p95 now blend test for 12 hour after small ftt and after large ftt each for 5 hour +

after i write my setting and save them and will try 4.8


----------



## Youown

Replying to save for later. I've been toying around with my CPU with the M5A99FX r 2.0 Pro and I'm still getting some sloppy performance with an 8120 at 4.6 GHz.


----------



## bonami2

vrm and back of mobo cooling required i hit 113c at 1.45v at 4.5ghz with my fx 6300 so that probably not helping


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Youown*
> 
> Replying to save for later. I've been toying around with my CPU with the M5A99FX r 2.0 Pro and I'm still getting some sloppy performance with an 8120 at 4.6 GHz.


let us know when you need help, you can also pop in the 83xx club in my sig


----------



## Skreedles

Hello,

I'm trying to ovrclock my AMD fx-8320 to 4.5ghz on a asus m5a97 r2.0 I'm wondering what settings I need since I don't have digi+.


----------



## Mega Man

turn off turbo, apm, cnq c1e c6 up multi and volts


----------



## bonami2

and add cooling to back of mobo and vrm


----------



## orlfman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skreedles*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm trying to ovrclock my AMD fx-8320 to 4.5ghz on a asus m5a97 r2.0 I'm wondering what settings I need since I don't have digi+.


If you can, ghetto rig your stock 8320 fan to the back off your motherboard on your motherboards socket plate. This will help lower socket temperature. Then add one or two 60mm - 80mm fans on your vrm's if you can fit them to help cool them off. Make sure cool and quiet and any other power saving features are turned off.


----------



## Skreedles

Sorry could you explain that a little better?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> turn off turbo, apm, cnq c1e c6 up multi and volts


----------



## Mega Man

turn off all power saving then up the multi and the voltage till you reach what you want. or what your cooling can handle

you may have to bump cpu/nb.

with that said i would not expect too much from that mobo ~ 4.5 to 4.7 if your cooling can handle it and that would be best case.

recommended oc method is up multi until pc wont boot then up volts somewhere you test for stability ( use ibt-avx if you use IBT ! see the opening post in the 83xx club in my sig for download )


----------



## bonami2

fan on back of mobo pointing at vrm if my fx 6300 at 4.5 can make them reach 113c i think your can go higher there is some chip on the back without heatsink

socket is ok


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bonami2*
> 
> fan on back of mobo pointing at vrm if my fx 6300 at 4.5 can make them reach *113c* i think your can go higher there is some chip on the back without heatsink
> 
> socket is ok


you hve a fan on the front ? if not why not ?


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> you hve a fan on the front ? if not why not ?..


I think he does now. Those 113C temps he was measuring were before he put a fan on the back. Those little chips on the back can certainly get very hot without some cooling, heh.


----------



## Youown

Is the 8120 at 4.6 GHz still a sloppy processor? In many games (Even WoW for crying out loud) I can't seem to maintain at least 60 FPS. Granted, I'm in populated areas in WoW and I know it favors Intel, but surely there's something wrong with my setup. I've disabled all power saving features, tweaked my M5A99FX r 2.0 Pro to the max, and have a Superclocked GTX 770 4GB (1307 MHz core, 3907 Memory). What can hold me back? Can it be my RAM? I have A-Data 8 GB (4x2 1333 Mhz), if it's anything I'm wanting to say its that. I'm so sick of microstuttering in Skyrim too. I hear Intel doesn't have any of these problems.. what do?



This is a Unigine Valley benchmark I did after ovreclocking my CPU. 4.5 gave better performance than 4.6 apparently. GPU clocks were +30 core +420 memory, then I learned how to overvolt and now I can push the core to +40, probably more. I'll do more benchmarks now that I can overvolt but I don't think my GPU is the issue. I'm merely showing this as I know Valley and other Unigine tests are more GPU based than CPU, as CPU games are where I'm getting issues.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Youown*
> 
> Is the 8120 at 4.6 GHz still a sloppy processor? In many games (Even WoW for crying out loud) I can't seem to maintain at least 60 FPS. Granted, I'm in populated areas in WoW and I know it favors Intel, but surely there's something wrong with my setup. I've disabled all power saving features, tweaked my M5A99FX r 2.0 Pro to the max, and have a Superclocked GTX 770 4GB (1307 MHz core, 3907 Memory). What can hold me back? Can it be my RAM? I have A-Data 8 GB (4x2 1333 Mhz), if it's anything I'm wanting to say its that. I'm so sick of microstuttering in Skyrim too. I hear Intel doesn't have any of these problems.. what do?
> 
> 
> 
> This is a Unigine Valley benchmark I did after ovreclocking my CPU. 4.5 gave better performance than 4.6 apparently. GPU clocks were +30 core +420 memory, then I learned how to overvolt and now I can push the core to +40, probably more. I'll do more benchmarks now that I can overvolt but I don't think my GPU is the issue. I'm merely showing this as I know Valley and other Unigine tests are more GPU based than CPU, as CPU games are where I'm getting issues.


wow is only working on 3 core that why intel is better...

From a Blizzard Forum admin

just requires 1, will benefit greatly with 2, and use a third a little, but not so much as you could tell over just having 2. The game automatically sees what you have and uses it to the best advantage it can.

Amd fx are very strong processor when game can use all the core and overclocked they are monster....

But most game only use 2-4 core...

And about microstuttering it about the gpu

DId not have any lagg on my fx 6300 and 7950 when i played

It possible that your overclock is unstable and create stutter


----------



## miklkit

There are 2 small utilities that will improve AMD performance in games like that.

1. Bulldozer Conditioner adds support for obsolete X87 code which Skyrim still has in abundance.

2. For many years intel has been seeding either/or utilities in programs that check what brand of cpu is being used. Guess who gets the good stuff? This patch lets all cpus use the good stuff and it does make a difference.

I use both of these and they do make a noticeable difference.

EDIT: No more Dropbox links.


----------



## bonami2

drop box? how can we trust you? is their any official page? I never trusted dropbox link


----------



## waveaddict

I agree,know one going to just download a zip/patch without a good source or web site that shows how and if it will work on all systems.
If you have a link with some reputable sources that would be great.


----------



## Nisrock7863

What stress tests have you run and at what settings?


----------



## miklkit

Dropbox is where I keep stuff archived. If you want the site for the Bulldozer conditioner, here it is. I have been using it for over 9 months now.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?286448-The-Book-of-Bulldozer-Revelations-Episode-2-(SuperPI-x87)

The ICC Patch was first posted by member Kalistoval here on one of these threads and I have been using it for 2 months now. Here is another site to look at.
http://freecode.com/projects/patch-authenticamd


----------



## nickster076

Guys i need help with fx8350 on m5a78l-m/usb3, throttle at 54celcius. No apm enabled or any powersaving, used msrtweakrr etc. Probably vrm issue since its 4+1 yet i see people get overclocks on this setup, remind i run at STOCK cpu speed!! My idea was to stop autovoltage and put offset voltage instead, to lower my vrm temp if thats the case, yet i cant find it in bios. Cant seem do adjust any voltage. Latest bios v1801. Any help very apreciated! I know vrm cooling heatsinks adding and all, i want this only if there is no option for adjusting my voltages for temp decrease on mosfets/vrm. any1?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickster076*
> 
> Guys i need help with *fx8350 on m5a78l-m/usb3*, throttle at 54celcius. No apm enabled or any powersaving, used msrtweakrr etc. Probably vrm issue since its 4+1 yet i see people get overclocks on this setup, remind i run at STOCK cpu speed!! My idea was to stop autovoltage and put offset voltage instead, to lower my vrm temp if thats the case, yet i cant find it in bios. Cant seem do adjust any voltage. Latest bios v1801. Any help very apreciated! I know vrm cooling heatsinks adding and all, i want this only if there is no option for adjusting my voltages for temp decrease on mosfets/vrm. any1?


no no no

nooo


----------



## Johan45

You need to put CPU overclocking in manual in the advanced menu, jumper free configuration before you have access to the voltages in bios. But I wouldn't use that board at all unless you're undervolting or shutting down cores


----------



## nickster076

Yes undervolting indeed, soery for being confusing, wanna run stock speed on lower voltages instead of overclock on stock voltages.


----------



## nickster076

I guess the voltages are locked on this board


----------



## Johan45

The info is still the same but if you want that board to live you really should get some active cooling on the VRM. A buudy of mine blew one of those up with a FX 4130, just FYI


----------



## nickster076

Im pretty worried about that yes, but i will keep playing untill i have the money, i mean.. If it throttles back for safety, it cant get to hot either right?


----------



## nickster076

Pretty strange tho i overclocked a 4300to 4400mhz without throttle or temp issues, should be heavier then a 4150


----------



## Johan45

It can happen pretty quicky and throttling doesn't always stop it. As for the busted board, let's just say he's never been a fraid of voltage.


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nickster076*
> 
> Guys i need help with fx8350 on m5a78l-m/usb3, throttle at 54celcius. No apm enabled or any powersaving, used msrtweakrr etc. Probably vrm issue since its 4+1 yet i see people get overclocks on this setup, remind i run at STOCK cpu speed!! My idea was to stop autovoltage and put offset voltage instead, to lower my vrm temp if thats the case, yet i cant find it in bios. Cant seem do adjust any voltage. Latest bios v1801. Any help very apreciated! I know vrm cooling heatsinks adding and all, i want this only if there is no option for adjusting my voltages for temp decrease on mosfets/vrm. any1?


the gigabyte motherboard as vrm heatsink and can overclock a little with some fan..

but a 4+1 without heatsink cant handle at all a 8350 and even with heatsink it very hard


----------



## brad1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> So I've been running five passes of intel burn test avx custom using 14 of my 16 of ram and always when it finishes the last fith pass it says "critical error, warning linepack binary stopped unexpectedly. This could be a result of missing executables, unstable system, or a software bug. If you have UAC enabled, please try re-running the program with administrative privileges."
> 
> I tried dropping it down to 4.2ghz and recieved the same error. Whats even more odd is recieving the error at stock 4ghz speed with everything back to stock auto....


I am having this exact problem, even when setting BIOS back to default. Although it is happening to me on "standard". Regular IBT passes without problem. I DLed a new copy of IBT AVX.

No matter how many passes I select, the error comes up right when the "Passed" message should come up, right at the end. I think this is a problem with IBT, not an indication of instability. If I set 100 passes, and there are no errors, till the very end, I would think it is something else. Almost seems like it is having trouble writing the final results or something.

If you Goolge "linepack binary stopped unexpectedly" you get less than 20 results, it is a rare problem. Prime 95 runs without a problem either. Any Ideas?


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Any Ideas?


At stock ? Try upping the cpu-nb and nb and dimm voltages a notch.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brad1138*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *orlfman*
> 
> So I've been running five passes of intel burn test avx custom using 14 of my 16 of ram and always when it finishes the last fith pass it says "critical error, warning linepack binary stopped unexpectedly. This could be a result of missing executables, unstable system, or a software bug. If you have UAC enabled, please try re-running the program with administrative privileges."
> 
> I tried dropping it down to 4.2ghz and recieved the same error. Whats even more odd is recieving the error at stock 4ghz speed with everything back to stock auto....
> 
> 
> 
> I am having this exact problem, even when setting BIOS back to default. Although it is happening to me on "standard". Regular IBT passes without problem. I DLed a new copy of IBT AVX.
> 
> No matter how many passes I select, the error comes up right when the "Passed" message should come up, right at the end. I think this is a problem with IBT, not an indication of instability. If I set 100 passes, and there are no errors, till the very end, I would think it is something else. Almost seems like it is having trouble writing the final results or something.
> 
> If you Goolge "linepack binary stopped unexpectedly" you get less than 20 results, it is a rare problem. Prime 95 runs without a problem either. Any Ideas?
Click to expand...

some times it is not ran in admin mode ( not by checking the box in preferences but by right clicking and actually running in admin by hand ) others have noted an issue with certain monitoring software, i think if it makes it through all the passes and gives the correct ( same ) answers you are fine however


----------



## brad1138

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some times it is not ran in admin mode ( not by checking the box in preferences but by right clicking and actually running in admin by hand ) others have noted an issue with certain monitoring software, i think if it makes it through all the passes and gives the correct ( same ) answers you are fine however


Thanks, orlfman had the solution. The problem seems to be Win 8.1, run it in Win 7 compatibility mode and as Admin, and it works fine.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brad1138*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> some times it is not ran in admin mode ( not by checking the box in preferences but by right clicking and actually running in admin by hand ) others have noted an issue with certain monitoring software, i think if it makes it through all the passes and gives the correct ( same ) answers you are fine however
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, orlfman had the solution. The problem seems to be Win 8.1, run it in Win 7 compatibility mode and as Admin, and it works fine.
Click to expand...

i knew i forgot at least one


----------



## Razer505

So i have set all recommended settings per the guide (HPC disabled because of freezing)

My temps sky rocket, (when everything is default my temps never go above 61C socket)

But with everything set to manual it will get up too 73C and 62 on the cores (thats when i turn off prime 95)(in less than 5 minutes)

Any idea at all? I'd greatly appreciate it.

My cpu cooler is a thermalright macho 120 rev A with a coolermaster sickleflow 120mm strapped on (its better than the stock fan)

Oh and its like 76F in my house i know that doesn't help but it still only hits 61c on auto prime95 for like 15 minutes

PLEASE HELP!!!!


----------



## Mega Man

set to manual on what settings ?


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> So i have set all recommended settings per the guide (HPC disabled because of freezing)
> 
> My temps sky rocket, (when everything is default my temps never go above 61C socket)
> 
> But with everything set to manual it will get up too 73C and 62 on the cores (thats when i turn off prime 95)(in less than 5 minutes)
> 
> Any idea at all? I'd greatly appreciate it.
> 
> My cpu cooler is a thermalright macho 120 rev A with a coolermaster sickleflow 120mm strapped on (its better than the stock fan)
> 
> Oh and its like 76F in my house i know that doesn't help but it still only hits 61c on auto prime95 for like 15 minutes
> 
> PLEASE HELP!!!!


Temps going higher when you set everything up based on this guide is normal, things like LLC stress the VRMs higher and heat up the socket. I saw a similar increase in temps with my FX-8350 cooled by an Arctic A30, these chips run quite hot. This guide let me get up 4.5GHz without increasing voltages though.
Try putting a fan on the back of the socket. If you have a good fan it can give a noticeable difference in temps. You could try using the stock fan of your cooler. Attach it with cable ties or double sided tape on the cooler's backplate. Thermal paste can also make a difference. What are you using and how did you apply it? The credit card method isn't considered very good anymore, just put a rice grain in the centre of the CPU. Some good pastes are Gelid GC-Extreme and Arctic Silver 5, I use the slightly cheaper Arctic MX4 and that's pretty good as well. Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra is also considered good, but it's highly conductive, so if you get it on the motherboard it may cause a short, so be careful when applying.
As far as setting the BIOS goes, some people run CPU LLC on high rather than ultra, which will generate less heat, but increases vdroop, so you need slightly higher CPU voltage to keep it stable. Didn't work for me, but has worked for many others.


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra is also considered good, but it's highly conductive, so if you get it on the motherboard it may cause a short, so be careful when applying.


It also eats aluminum, but with his Thermalright macho 120 rev A hes OK in that regard.


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> Temps going higher when you set everything up based on this guide is normal, things like LLC stress the VRMs higher and heat up the socket. I saw a similar increase in temps with my FX-8350 cooled by an Arctic A30, these chips run quite hot. This guide let me get up 4.5GHz without increasing voltages though.
> Try putting a fan on the back of the socket. If you have a good fan it can give a noticeable difference in temps. You could try using the stock fan of your cooler. Attach it with cable ties or double sided tape on the cooler's backplate. Thermal paste can also make a difference. What are you using and how did you apply it? The credit card method isn't considered very good anymore, just put a rice grain in the centre of the CPU. Some good pastes are Gelid GC-Extreme and Arctic Silver 5, I use the slightly cheaper Arctic MX4 and that's pretty good as well. Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra is also considered good, but it's highly conductive, so if you get it on the motherboard it may cause a short, so be careful when applying.
> As far as setting the BIOS goes, some people run CPU LLC on high rather than ultra, which will generate less heat, but increases vdroop, so you need slightly higher CPU voltage to keep it stable. Didn't work for me, but has worked for many others.


Wow i didn't figure it would get that hot. Im disappointed in this cooler. i figured it's basically i hyper 212 with bigger surface area. The thing is my clock was at 4000 when all the recommended settings were set so i was surprised to see a spike that high in temps...(also it will auto clock to like 4.1 or something wimpy lol)

As for method i used the pea method and Chill factor 3 thermal paste.

My case is somewhat small too, thermaltake v3 with 2 fans in and one out (the out is same speed as cpu cooler)

So... about this cooler, should i just give up and go get a hydro h100i? lol


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> But with everything set to manual it will get up too 73C and 62 on the cores (thats when i turn off prime 95)(in less than 5 minutes)(when everything is default my temps never go above 61C socket)


Quote:


> Oh and its like 76F in my house i know that doesn't help


Quote:


> So... about this cooler, should i just give up and go get a hydro h100i? lol


Whats your motherboard temp ?

I wouldnt give up yet, you just probably have something set too high in bios unnecessarily. And you could probably use a second high pressure fan on the thermalright macho 120 along with a fan on the back of the mobo and a fan on the vrm heatsink.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Wow i didn't figure it would get that hot. Im disappointed in this cooler. i figured it's basically i hyper 212 with bigger surface area. The thing is my clock was at 4000 when all the recommended settings were set so i was surprised to see a spike that high in temps...(also it will auto clock to like 4.1 or something wimpy lol)
> 
> As for method i used the pea method and Chill factor 3 thermal paste.
> 
> My case is somewhat small too, thermaltake v3 with 2 fans in and one out (the out is same speed as cpu cooler)
> 
> So... about this cooler, should i just give up and go get a hydro h100i? lol


If you set everything up based on the guide you should be able to overclock from stock a bit without raising vcore and without increasing temps. Give it a try, set everything based on the guide, set the vcore manually to what the BIOS is saying it runs at and up the multi a bit. Increasing the clock itself doesn't increase temps as long as you don't bump the vcore.
Your thermal paste seems like good stuff based on some reviews I just looked up. Pretty much the same performance as the GC-Extreme.


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> If you set everything up based on the guide you should be able to overclock from stock a bit without raising vcore and without increasing temps. Give it a try, set everything based on the guide, set the vcore manually to what the BIOS is saying it runs at and up the multi a bit. Increasing the clock itself doesn't increase temps as long as you don't bump the vcore.
> Your thermal paste seems like good stuff based on some reviews I just looked up. Pretty much the same performance as the GC-Extreme.


I will later today i have a few errands to run first,

i also just ordered 2 Coolermaster Jetflo 120's i'll strap one on the cooler and the other for exhaust.

Also i ordered some silver 5 and that cleaning kit or whatever it is... (glorified rubbing alcohol lol)

I'll try later tonight with everything as is, on Tuesday when everything arrives I'll hook it up and see if i get any improvements. I was originally upset because it was overheating with recommended settings at stock clocks per the guide.

That Cooler of yours the Freezer A30 looks similar to mine could i ask what you have you cpu/nb volts at? its says 1.25-1.3v but that isnt specific (when i set it to what it was automatically on my pc froze up) i had it set at 1.27v with those high temps at 4ghz

(P.s thank you very much for your time!)


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> I will later today i have a few errands to run first,
> 
> i also just ordered 2 Coolermaster Jetflo 120's i'll strap one on the cooler and the other for exhaust.
> 
> Also i ordered some silver 5 and that cleaning kit or whatever it is... (glorified rubbing alcohol lol)
> 
> I'll try later tonight with everything as is, on Tuesday when everything arrives I'll hook it up and see if i get any improvements. I was originally upset because it was overheating with recommended settings at stock clocks per the guide.
> 
> That Cooler of yours the Freezer A30 looks similar to mine could i ask what you have you cpu/nb volts at? its says 1.25-1.3v but that isnt specific (when i set it to what it was automatically on my pc froze up) i had it set at 1.27v with those high temps at 4ghz
> 
> (P.s thank you very much for your time!)


i'd be more concerned why u considered your cooler would be good at that price.....

U didnt scrimp on the other components so why did u for the cooler?

The 8350 takes some cooling


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> i'd be more concerned why u considered your cooler would be good at that price.....
> 
> U didnt scrimp on the other components so why did u for the cooler?
> 
> The 8350 takes some cooling


Well i'm a bit leery of water cooling (even though i would like one) and my case doesn't have much room in it. The dimensions of that cooler has more surface area than a hyper 212 which i have heard people clocking to 4.5ghz its the same price range/ similar engineering and a solid brand (makers of the silver arrow). I came to the conclusion it was worth a try. obviously i was mistaken


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Well i'm a bit leery of water cooling (even though i would like one) and my case doesn't have much room in it. The dimensions of that cooler has more surface area than a hyper 212 which i have heard people clocking to 4.5ghz its the same price range/ similar engineering and a solid brand (makers of the silver arrow). I came to the conclusion it was worth a try. obviously i was mistaken


u dont need to WC









i started on a noctua NH-U12S then i went to nh-d14 but its a bit beefy and needs a big enough case for it

we see it alot in the vishera thread that some people scrimp on the cooler


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> I will later today i have a few errands to run first,
> 
> i also just ordered 2 Coolermaster Jetflo 120's i'll strap one on the cooler and the other for exhaust.
> 
> Also i ordered some silver 5 and that cleaning kit or whatever it is... (glorified rubbing alcohol lol)
> 
> I'll try later tonight with everything as is, on Tuesday when everything arrives I'll hook it up and see if i get any improvements. I was originally upset because it was overheating with recommended settings at stock clocks per the guide.
> 
> That Cooler of yours the Freezer A30 looks similar to mine could i ask what you have you cpu/nb volts at? its says 1.25-1.3v but that isnt specific (when i set it to what it was automatically on my pc froze up) i had it set at 1.27v with those high temps at 4ghz
> 
> (P.s thank you very much for your time!)


I have mine at 1.25v and no problems so far. I believe increasing CPU/NB gets more important on higher clocks, that might be why I have had no need to bump it up. Maybe if I get better cooling and breach 5GHz it may become necessary, but up to 4.5GHz I've been fine with 1.25v.
Report back with results.








Would have replied sooner but I seemed to have problems with internet...


----------



## jleslie246

Not sure if anyone posted this or not. I found this very helpful, along with the guide here on OC.net.

http://sites.amd.com/us/documents/amd_fx_performance_tuning_guide.pdf


----------



## mikemykeMB

Hit the over 5.0Ghz...except Vcore sux asteriods at 1.57..ughhh

http://valid.x86.fr/84qrq3


----------



## cpmee

Quote:


> except Vcore sux asteriods at 1.57.


Its only 1.548 with vdroop, so its still safe.


----------



## Mega Man

@jleslie246Fyi I would not beg for rep (or ask) it is against tos and your post will be removed along with the helpful info and will remove your hard work to make the post. That guide is great but outdated.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cpmee*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> except Vcore sux asteriods at 1.57.
> 
> 
> 
> Its only 1.548 with vdroop, so its still safe.
Click to expand...

As I mentioned above that guide is great and only contains generalized comments. Personally I think they left out water cooling as it can differ greatly. These chips can take far more then a beating.

I and others have pushed far greater on our chips. 24/7 I run around 1.6v and I know others that run 1.7

It really depends on heat. If you can control it. You are fine. People need to stop worrying about max volts and worry about max temps


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @jleslie246Fyi I would not beg for rep (or ask) it is against tos and your post will be removed along with the helpful info and will remove your hard work to make the post. That guide is great but outdated.
> As I mentioned above that guide is great and only contains generalized comments. Personally I think they left out water cooling as it can differ greatly. These chips can take far more then a beating.
> 
> I and others have pushed far greater on our chips. 24/7 I run around 1.6v and I know others that run 1.7
> 
> It really depends on heat. If you can control it. You are fine. People need to stop worrying about max volts and worry about max temps


True that for control of heat, ..I just have a concern for the overvolt..max temp reached was around 57-58, so there is more room for a higher clock, but if your mentioning 1.6v, might just see how it goes.


----------



## Mega Man

i might add we pushed it over a year with no ill effects few of us have pushed 1.7-1.8 + while benching without issues as well.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i might add we pushed it over a year with no ill effects few of us have pushed 1.7-1.8 + while benching without issues as well.


Been there and done that many times. as for sustained runs at high voltage and temps I'll direct you to this thread http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=728489&highlight=tougher He still has suffered no ill effects from his FX punishment to my knowledge. Personally I wouldn't do this but ssj shows it is possible.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Nice to know, thou shall(...you just want me to) go further huh?? Not a CS, but will do when I return back at the ranch..lol


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Nice to know, thou shall(...you just want me to) go further huh?? Not a CS, but will do when I return back at the ranch..lol


They're your parts and your money. I beat the crap out of my stuff on a regular basis but my 24/7 OC , I keep the volts lower I have no need to surf at 5.2G , I just keep different profiles in BIOS for my needs


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> They're your parts and your money. I beat the crap out of my stuff on a regular basis but my 24/7 OC , I keep the volts lower I have no need to surf at 5.2G , I just keep different profiles in BIOS for my needs


Agreed, and a good idea. I also would never keep it there anyways, have read in various posts on different sites about the punishment being done and how it keeps on ticking. Ah, but yes there is always a "break" point somewhere, and I am not searching for it either.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Agreed, and a good idea. I also would never keep it there anyways, have read in various posts on different sites about the punishment being done and how it keeps on ticking. Ah, but yes there is always a "break" point somewhere, and I am not searching for it either.


As Mega Man said as long as you keep you heat under control there's no hram in seeing what it's capable of. That's benching in a nutshell. Keep pushing and tweaking to get better scores.


----------



## Nisrock7863

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Wow i didn't figure it would get that hot. Im disappointed in this cooler. i figured it's basically i hyper 212 with bigger surface area. The thing is my clock was at 4000 when all the recommended settings were set so i was surprised to see a spike that high in temps...(also it will auto clock to like 4.1 or something wimpy lol)
> 
> As for method i used the pea method and Chill factor 3 thermal paste.
> 
> My case is somewhat small too, thermaltake v3 with 2 fans in and one out (the out is same speed as cpu cooler)
> 
> So... about this cooler, should i just give up and go get a hydro h100i? lol


Nah. That cooler's not bad according to a review on another sight I found - in fact, it can be within 6C of the Silver Arrow SB-E, according to them, which is pretty good for a budget cooler.

I'd try reseating it to make sure the paste spread evenly when you installed it. Make sure you got good coverage in the center in particular. You can use coffee filters and high percentage (I use 90%) isopropyl alcohol to clean off the original application.

If you didn't get around 75% coverage apply a little more than you did the first time, If it's lop sided be careful to apply even pressure when you seat the cooler, first when you set it press it down evenly, and be sure to go back and forth between the screws as you're screwing it in so that it's applied evenly when it's tightened down.

Next up is your case air flow. Air coolers are only as effective as the air flow in your case. If you're not moving a lot of air through your case, and with three fans you're likely not, then the heat from your CPU cooler probably isn't going anywhere. If your V3 is the same one they're selling on Amazon you have space for a side panel intake and an extra exhaust fan up top - I'd fill both of those slots to maximize the amount of air moving through your case.

I'd also try the stock fan on your cooler again and compare load temps between them. Sickleflows are good case fans, but they don't exert much static pressure, so it's probably having trouble getting air through your heatsink. The stock fan probably exerts more pressure, and while it may get lower air flow, it could still get more air through the heatsink due to that pressure.


----------



## Razer505

I did, cleaned it of and applied some arctic silver it came with the cleaner and prep liquid (its cooler in my house granted 72 tonight) but it was on prime 95 for 20 minutes and diddn't hit above 60C so there may be hope for it yet.

I took your advice put the sickleflo as my 2nd intake in the front and the stock on the cooler.

I think i got a decent spread this time ( was careful to apply pressure on each screw 2 turns at a time. I'll see how my temps hold up when i bump the clock up at bit and post back. Thanks!

(it did twist just a hair so if i get the urge ill reset it again...) but for now im ok idleing around 33-34C at stock


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> Nah. That cooler's not bad according to a review on another sight I found - in fact, it can be within 6C of the Silver Arrow SB-E, according to them, which is pretty good for a budget cooler.
> 
> I'd try reseating it to make sure the paste spread evenly when you installed it. Make sure you got good coverage in the center in particular. You can use coffee filters and high percentage (I use 90%) isopropyl alcohol to clean off the original application.
> 
> If you didn't get around 75% coverage apply a little more than you did the first time, If it's lop sided be careful to apply even pressure when you seat the cooler, first when you set it press it down evenly, and be sure to go back and forth between the screws as you're screwing it in so that it's applied evenly when it's tightened down.
> 
> Next up is your case air flow. Air coolers are only as effective as the air flow in your case. If you're not moving a lot of air through your case, and with three fans you're likely not, then the heat from your CPU cooler probably isn't going anywhere. If your V3 is the same one they're selling on Amazon you have space for a side panel intake and an extra exhaust fan up top - I'd fill both of those slots to maximize the amount of air moving through your case.
> 
> I'd also try the stock fan on your cooler again and compare load temps between them. Sickleflows are good case fans, but they don't exert much static pressure, so it's probably having trouble getting air through your heatsink. The stock fan probably exerts more pressure, and while it may get lower air flow, it could still get more air through the heatsink due to that pressure.


Well i tried again, sort of

i just put everything in the bios to manual

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks) (had on auto)
CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
CPU/NB LLC - Auto
CPU Current Capability - 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
DRAM Current Capability 130%
Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
C1E - Disabled
SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
Core C6 State - Disabled
HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind) (had this disables)
Amp Master Mode - Disabled

and

still skyrocked in less than 5 minutes up to like 77 socket and 66 core so i quit the test... stock clocks too man...


----------



## Nisrock7863

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Well i tried again, sort of
> 
> i just put everything in the bios to manual
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
> DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
> CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks) (had on auto)
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Current Capability 130%
> Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
> C1E - Disabled
> SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind) (had this disables)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled
> 
> and
> 
> still skyrocked in less than 5 minutes up to like 77 socket and 66 core so i quit the test... stock clocks too man...


What are you setting your voltage to? That's the most important number in this equation.

Air coolers are only as effective as your ability to move air through the case. Your best bet is to get as many fans into your case as you can to move as much air as you can. Two intakes and one exhaust isn't quite cutting it. Are you running all of your fans at full speed while stress testing? Does your V3 have the two vents on top and one in the side?

EDIT: You might also consider finding a way to mount a fan in your lower 5.25" drive bay area. This'd feed air directly to your CPU cooler. As things stand now it's having to pull air either through the front of the case or around from below, where the intake fans are. That's definitely not optimal air flow.

I built a little duct for a fan to fit into my 5.25" area specifically for this purpose. All it took was some poster board and some glue sticks. Oh, and a high static pressure fan to pull air in and blast it at my cooler.


----------



## Razer505

Well i tried again, sort of

i just put everything in the bios to manual

Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks) (had on auto)
CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
CPU/NB LLC - Auto
CPU Current Capability - 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
DRAM Current Capability 130%
Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
C1E - Disabled
SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
Core C6 State - Disabled
HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind) (had this disables)
Amp Master Mode - Disabled

and

still skyrocked in less than 5 minutes up to like 77 socket and 66 core so i quit the test... stock clocks too man...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> What are you setting your voltage to? That's the most important number in this equation.
> 
> Air coolers are only as effective as your ability to move air through the case. Your best bet is to get as many fans into your case as you can to move as much air as you can. Two intakes and one exhaust isn't quite cutting it. Are you running all of your fans at full speed while stress testing? Does your V3 have the two vents on top and one in the side?
> 
> EDIT: You might also consider finding a way to mount a fan in your lower 5.25" drive bay area. This'd feed air directly to your CPU cooler. As things stand now it's having to pull air either through the front of the case or around from below, where the intake fans are. That's definitely not optimal air flow.
> 
> I built a little duct for a fan to fit into my 5.25" area specifically for this purpose. All it took was some poster board and some glue sticks. Oh, and a high static pressure fan to pull air in and blast it at my cooler.


Volts were only at like 1.392 it was what they were automatically hovering at. But I may have other problems now. I put all settings back to defaults and now my computer is acting funny... It's frozen 3 or 4 times. 2 times under normal conditions and 2 times while running prime 95 small FFT tests. Everything completely default.

I was running Small FFT test while i went to bed and it lasted 3 hours and a pop up from my virus scanner trying to start a scan froze the computer.

And it froze this morning after i logged in and opened chrome...

I've re-installed windows and made sure all wires were seated, even the ram was dust free...

(Recent changes were i cut a hole in the top of my case with sheet metal snips(cpu was removed everything was blown off after)
(Installed an H100I and removed it because it was defective (led did not work and it made a fan lock up and smoke)

Since then i have returned my case to exactly the way it used to be, re-installed windows(after it started acting funny) and that's it.
If you could help me figure out why my computer is acting this way at everything stock i might mail you cookies.


----------



## Razer505

*Update

I have re-flashed the bios to the most current version 2301 i think, and am currently running memtest 86


----------



## Razer505

**Update 2

Memtest 86 ran for 43 minutes ( i know ill leave it overnight tonight)
1 pass no errors

Then i checked the GFX card drivers up to date etc etc
Unigine Vally (very pretty btw)
Score 2377
Min FPS 16.3 Max 105.1
Avg FPS 56.1
High
AA 4x

Then i went to OCCT
Linepack
90% Memory
64 bits checked
AVX checked

FAILED LASTED 10 minutes then strangely it stopped because the package temp was 103 C (Which holy **** btw)
But the socket only registered to 59C ***?


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> **Update 2
> 
> Memtest 86 ran for 43 minutes ( i know ill leave it overnight tonight)
> 1 pass no errors
> 
> Then i checked the GFX card drivers up to date etc etc
> Unigine Vally (very pretty btw)
> Score 2377
> Min FPS 16.3 Max 105.1
> Avg FPS 56.1
> High
> AA 4x
> 
> Then i went to OCCT
> Linepack
> 90% Memory
> 64 bits checked
> AVX checked
> 
> FAILED LASTED 10 minutes then strangely it stopped because the package temp was 103 C (Which holy **** btw)
> But the socket only registered to 59C ***?


Something funky is going on, HWmonitor said it was around 44C or so...


----------



## Johan45

How many monitoring programs do you have on there? If one of the is AISuite uninstall it. Also you really don't need to set the CPU_NB that high for stock speed. Leave it at auto or 1.2v max


----------



## Mega Man

something tells me bad mount on your cpu cooler


----------



## Razer505

This time It froze up on OCCT half way through the test, do i have a defective cpu?


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> How many monitoring programs do you have on there? If one of the is AISuite uninstall it. Also you really don't need to set the CPU_NB that high for stock speed. Leave it at auto or 1.2v max


It's been on auto
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> something tells me bad mount on your cpu cooler


I can try to reset it again, but this is infuriating, will report back soon.


----------



## Johan45

Good call Mega, I just had alook at a review for that cooler and it looks like a real PIA to install, they also mentioned that the plate could get hungup on the HS with AMD so make sure that the retention plate is fully seated Razer. One thing once you have the cooler set into the paste try hard not to lift it again or you'll have a possibility of air bubbles.


----------



## Nisrock7863

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Well i tried again, sort of
> 
> i just put everything in the bios to manual
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
> DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
> CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks) (had on auto)
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Current Capability 130%
> Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
> C1E - Disabled
> SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind) (had this disables)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled
> 
> and
> 
> still skyrocked in less than 5 minutes up to like 77 socket and 66 core so i quit the test... stock clocks too man...
> Volts were only at like 1.392 it was what they were automatically hovering at. But I may have other problems now. I put all settings back to defaults and now my computer is acting funny... It's frozen 3 or 4 times. 2 times under normal conditions and 2 times while running prime 95 small FFT tests. Everything completely default.
> 
> I was running Small FFT test while i went to bed and it lasted 3 hours and a pop up from my virus scanner trying to start a scan froze the computer.
> 
> And it froze this morning after i logged in and opened chrome...
> 
> I've re-installed windows and made sure all wires were seated, even the ram was dust free...
> 
> (Recent changes were i cut a hole in the top of my case with sheet metal snips(cpu was removed everything was blown off after)
> (Installed an H100I and removed it because it was defective (led did not work and it made a fan lock up and smoke)
> 
> Since then i have returned my case to exactly the way it used to be, re-installed windows(after it started acting funny) and that's it.
> If you could help me figure out why my computer is acting this way at everything stock i might mail you cookies.


I hope you removed your motherboard when you did that, too. Metal shavings from cutting the hole could do some damage to it. Blow the whole thing off with compressed air. Be sure to go over it front and back, and look at it carefully to make sure there's nothing you missed. Are you taking anti static measures as you're working on all this?

1.392 is some high voltage. My 8320 hits 4.4GHz on 1.38 and that gets dangerously close to my thermal limit on my Evo. It's no wonder you're having temp problems. What's your actual vid voltage? It should be listed near the top of Hwinfo's sensor list. I know all these CPUs are different, but I highly doubt you need 1.392v to be stable at 4GHz.

I'd try setting voltage to 1.35 and your multi to 20 and see if that is stable. I'd also drop LLC to high. It might be over volting your CPU even further under load.


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> I hope you removed your motherboard when you did that, too. Metal shavings from cutting the hole could do some damage to it. Blow the whole thing off with compressed air. Be sure to go over it front and back, and look at it carefully to make sure there's nothing you missed. Are you taking anti static measures as you're working on all this?
> 
> 1.392 is some high voltage. My 8320 hits 4.4GHz on 1.38 and that gets dangerously close to my thermal limit on my Evo. It's no wonder you're having temp problems. What's your actual vid voltage? It should be listed near the top of Hwinfo's sensor list. I know all these CPUs are different, but I highly doubt you need 1.392v to be stable at 4GHz.
> 
> I'd try setting voltage to 1.35 and your multi to 20 and see if that is stable. I'd also drop LLC to high. It might be over volting your CPU even further under load.


Well i wasn't thinking ( got too excited being a dumbass i guess) so i diddn't have it completely apart.

But i just did a full tear down and rebuild and re-seated the heat sink .

Im looking at HWmonitor at idle (all bios settings to default) CPU VCORE is jumping between 1.140, 1.188, 1.224, 1.308, and 1.392


----------



## Razer505

There caught it


----------



## Johan45

That's fairly normal when the bios is on default all the Green stuff is working to save power. Every time a background service or what not starts it'll give a bit of a spike in usage so the voltage and clocks will fluctuate.


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> I hope you removed your motherboard when you did that, too. Metal shavings from cutting the hole could do some damage to it. Blow the whole thing off with compressed air. Be sure to go over it front and back, and look at it carefully to make sure there's nothing you missed. Are you taking anti static measures as you're working on all this?
> 
> 1.392 is some high voltage. My 8320 hits 4.4GHz on 1.38 and that gets dangerously close to my thermal limit on my Evo. It's no wonder you're having temp problems. What's your actual vid voltage? It should be listed near the top of Hwinfo's sensor list. I know all these CPUs are different, but I highly doubt you need 1.392v to be stable at 4GHz.
> 
> I'd try setting voltage to 1.35 and your multi to 20 and see if that is stable. I'd also drop LLC to high. It might be over volting your CPU even further under load.


Yea.. i diddn't i wasn't thinking straight, i did look it over (just did a full tear down and rebuild) and applied compressed air liberally

Mt CPU Vcore is jumping from (all bios settings on default) 1.164, 1.224, 1.344, 1.368 at idle
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> That's fairly normal when the bios is on default all the Green stuff is working to save power. Every time a background service or what not starts it'll give a bit of a spike in usage so the voltage and clocks will fluctuate.


Well thats good, how about it freezing up the moment i click the small FFT test on Prime 95?

Still everything on bios is at default, any ideas? i mean otherwise it is stable to play games and surf. I'm on it right now, its really strange.


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Yea.. i diddn't i wasn't thinking straight, i did look it over (just did a full tear down and rebuild) and applied compressed air liberally
> 
> Mt CPU Vcore is jumping from (all bios settings on default) 1.164, 1.224, 1.344, 1.368 at idle
> Well thats good, how about it freezing up the moment i click the small FFT test on Prime 95?
> 
> Still everything on bios is at default, any ideas? i mean otherwise it is stabe to play games and surf. I'm on it right now, its really strange.


P.s.

Blend test doesnt seem to phase it im doing one as i'm typing.

The Small FFT froze at 1.35V and 1.33V and on auto V's


----------



## Johan45

Did you monitor your temps while doing it, I would also suggest using blend test the small FFTs cause a lot more heat. If possible try to get a HWMonitor pic before it freezes so we can see what's going on.


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

still cant get my 9370 to be stable @ over 236x20.5 i tried everyone settings and still nothing any more my pc will lock up during gaming etc. heck i even tried 230 x 20 and 233 x 21.5 and 22 @ 1.57v and still did it but was able to play for a few seconds before it locked up completely. I have to run 1.56v to keep it stable at my current settings.

what cpu_ NB voltages should I be trying? i think on auto it runs 1.3-1.35 I gave 1.5 a try for the heck of it with no help.

llc is ultra high

rest is at ultra fast/ 130%

vrms are plenty cool

i dont know what else to try.

this chip is basically impossible to overclock any higher.

all on the newest bios as well


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Did you monitor your temps while doing it, I would also suggest using blend test the small FFTs cause a lot more heat. If possible try to get a HWMonitor pic before it freezes so we can see what's going on.


Well it wont even start a Small FFT test without instantly freezing so i cant get a screen

During the line test on OCCT it hovered about 58-60 at the socket, and 43ish package.

But its been blending for a little over 10 minutes and im at this:


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Well it wont even start a Small FFT test without instantly freezing so i cant get a screen
> 
> During the line test on OCCT it hovered about 58-60 at the socket, and 43ish package.
> 
> But its been blending for a little over 10 minutes and im at this:


Well so far so good. Next time can you open HWMonitor a bit more so we can see the package temp as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> still cant get my 9370 to be stable @ over 236x20.5 i tried everyone settings and still nothing any more my pc will lock up during gaming etc. heck i even tried 230 x 20 and 233 x 21.5 and 22 @ 1.57v and still did it but was able to play for a few seconds before it locked up completely. I have to run 1.56v to keep it stable at my current settings.
> 
> what cpu_ NB voltages should I be trying? i think on auto it runs 1.3-1.35 I gave 1.5 a try for the heck of it with no help.
> 
> llc is ultra high
> 
> rest is at ultra fast/ 130%
> 
> vrms are plenty cool
> 
> i dont know what else to try.
> 
> this chip is basically impossible to overclock any higher.
> 
> all on the newest bios as well


My suggestion at this poit would be to set defaults in bios and start over, you can't just go throwing setting at it and expect them all to work. Did you drop ram spedd/ timings, NB when messing with the FSB ? You voltages look way too high to me for 4.7 ish
Like I said start on default and slowly raise the multi till it gets unstable , see how high it'll go that way. The only thing I would do is disable turbo.


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Well so far so good. Next time can you open HWMonitor a bit more so we can see the package temp as well.


Your wish my command


Its weird though, if i set all properties in BIOS to manual it will freeze very hot mind you even at stock clocks and multipliers... If i run a Small FFT it freezes

Gaming and surfing at defaults nothing...


----------



## Razer505

Now that i think about it i was attempting to run small fft's when originally trying to OC which explains all the failures...

is this a thing? some cpu's suck at small FFT's sorry if that's total novice but something is up lol


----------



## Razer505

http://www.overclock.net/t/750114/prime95-stress-test-which-setting-blend-or-small-ffts

scroll to newpc's comment is this true?

blend checks half ur ram + cpu

while small just does cpu and the cache's

i like blend better, just because it checks both

In which case my cpu is having issues? (not yet 30 days old btw)


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Now that i think about it i was attempting to run small fft's when originally trying to OC which explains all the failures...
> 
> is this a thing? some cpu's suck at small FFT's sorry if that's total novice but something is up lol


If you pay attention while P95 is running you'll see some signifigant temp spikes at times. That's typically when running a "small FFT " length. So it makes sense tha if it's harder on the CPU it makes more heat and requires more volyage which is probably why it was shutting down on you.


----------



## Razer505

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> If you pay attention while P95 is running you'll see some significant temp spikes at times. That's typically when running a "small FFT " length. So it makes sense tha if it's harder on the CPU it makes more heat and requires more voltage which is probably why it was shutting down on you.


Damn it froze at 1:43 when i had the wrong window open... It would seem (please do correct me if i am wrong) that my CPU is defective,

It that's the common consensus among you i have no problem returning it to amazon and ordering another as it is less than 30 days old.

Opinions?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Damn it froze at 1:43 when i had the wrong window open... It would seem (please do correct me if i am wrong) that my CPU is defective,
> 
> It that's the common consensus among you i have no problem returning it to amazon and ordering another as it is less than 30 days old.
> 
> Opinions?


hardly defective, i say human error

if i was you id reset everything in bios to stock because u come across as doing alot of things quickly and i think this is the problem


----------



## Razer505

New CPU will be here tomorrow, will update then


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> I hope you removed your motherboard when you did that, too. Metal shavings from cutting the hole could do some damage to it. Blow the whole thing off with compressed air. Be sure to go over it front and back, and look at it carefully to make sure there's nothing you missed. Are you taking anti static measures as you're working on all this?
> 
> 1.392 is some high voltage. My 8320 hits 4.4GHz on 1.38 and that gets dangerously close to my thermal limit on my Evo. It's no wonder you're having temp problems. What's your actual vid voltage? It should be listed near the top of Hwinfo's sensor list. I know all these CPUs are different, but I highly doubt you need 1.392v to be stable at 4GHz.
> 
> I'd try setting voltage to 1.35 and your multi to 20 and see if that is stable. I'd also drop LLC to high. It might be over volting your CPU even further under load.
> 
> 
> 
> Well i wasn't thinking ( got too excited being a dumbass i guess) so i diddn't have it completely apart.
> 
> But i just did a full tear down and rebuild and re-seated the heat sink .
> 
> Im looking at HWmonitor at idle (all bios settings to default) CPU VCORE is jumping between 1.140, 1.188, 1.224, 1.308, and 1.392
Click to expand...

first DUMP ( uninstall ) hwmonitor as it has been known to cause issues with FX cpus ( freezing ) and get hwinfo ) as it is better then hwmonitor anyway

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> still cant get my 9370 to be stable @ over 236x20.5 i tried everyone settings and still nothing any more my pc will lock up during gaming etc. heck i even tried 230 x 20 and 233 x 21.5 and 22 @ 1.57v and still did it but was able to play for a few seconds before it locked up completely. I have to run 1.56v to keep it stable at my current settings.
> 
> what cpu_ NB voltages should I be trying? i think on auto it runs 1.3-1.35 I gave 1.5 a try for the heck of it with no help.
> 
> llc is ultra high
> 
> rest is at ultra fast/ 130%
> 
> vrms are plenty cool
> 
> i dont know what else to try.
> 
> this chip is basically impossible to overclock any higher.
> 
> all on the newest bios as well


according to your rig you have 2dimms of 1866? 1.2 should be plenty ( ish may need 1.25, this causes the most heat ) sounds to me like you can not keep up with the heat and it is causing freezing

what bios are you running on your saberkitty ?

when you say no further are you using fsb or multi to oc, personally i would not recommend fsb untill you know what you are doing ( which you might, i dont know you so dont take that personally. ) as all FX have fsb holes where they wont work, and it can differ chip to chip, board to board ( meaning you could take out your cpu and it may have the same holes in another board, or it may not )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> New CPU will be here tomorrow, will update then


.....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razer505*
> 
> Damn it froze at 1:43 when i had the wrong window open... It would seem (please do correct me if i am wrong) that my CPU is defective,
> 
> It that's the common consensus among you i have no problem returning it to amazon and ordering another as it is less than 30 days old.
> 
> Opinions?
> 
> 
> 
> hardly defective, i say human error
> 
> if i was you id reset everything in bios to stock because u come across as doing alot of things quickly and i think this is the problem
Click to expand...


----------



## Nisrock7863

Do you have another AM3 socket CPU you can test on the motherboard to make sure it isn't at fault here?


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first DUMP ( uninstall ) hwmonitor as it has been known to cause issues with FX cpus ( freezing ) and get hwinfo ) as it is better then hwmonitor anyway
> :


I have been using HWMonitor free for years and have never once seen this problem. I mean to each their own but there's nothing wrong with the software itself. Most likely the system was unstable or some other software such as AISuite interfering.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> I have been using HWMonitor free for years and have never once seen this problem. I mean to each their own but there's nothing wrong with the software itself. Most likely the system was unstable or some other software such as AISuite interfering.


No mate you are quite mistaken, i too was using hwmonitor but i couldnt do with the false readings of temps and voltage, i even rma a psu cause of it lol









hwinfo64 ftw!


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> No mate you are quite mistaken, i too was using hwmonitor but i couldnt do with the false readings of temps and voltage, i even rma a psu cause of it lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hwinfo64 ftw!


Guess it's just something I hven't noticed ??


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Guess it's just something I hven't noticed ??


maybe lol, open em both and see the difference i guess lol


----------



## Johan45

I've never trusted anything but a physical reading for testing PSU delivery. Any software is dubious when it comes to that. As for CPU etc I have always found HWMoniotor to be bang on.


----------



## 06yfz450ridr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first DUMP ( uninstall ) hwmonitor as it has been known to cause issues with FX cpus ( freezing ) and get hwinfo ) as it is better then hwmonitor anyway
> according to your rig you have 2dimms of 1866? 1.2 should be plenty ( ish may need 1.25, this causes the most heat ) sounds to me like you can not keep up with the heat and it is causing freezing
> 
> what bios are you running on your saberkitty ?
> 
> when you say no further are you using fsb or multi to oc, personally i would not recommend fsb untill you know what you are doing ( which you might, i dont know you so dont take that personally. ) as all FX have fsb holes where they wont work, and it can differ chip to chip, board to board ( meaning you could take out your cpu and it may have the same holes in another board, or it may not )
> .....


hw info still has its issues, if I run it even with HDD monitoring disabled i get huge spikes when gaming.

but regardless im on 2301 i was on 2103 but still had the same issues.

i figured 1.2-1.3v was fine for just 2 dimms as well but I tried boosting it regardless.

plus my temps are fine, i now only run one rad in push and my other rad in pull vs both push/pull in my case and still get lower temps since its on my bench.

I would think 2x220mm rads should work decently even if they are qps with 12 fpi, not the greatest but my temps seem to be good.

that reminds me dont use food coloring as a dye, it clogged my block solid, had to do some cleaning to get it running back the way it was haha

also this is my 3rd fx cpu haha, started with a 6300, then the 8320, then this cpu. for me around a 230 bclk I had the most stable results when adjusting the multiplier as well.

it seems everything I tried at 200 really didnt play well. ive tried everything on this cpu using 200 with really no luck 230-236 has gotten me stable, even my 8320/6300 was the same way it ran best at 230-233.

I tried searching for holes but i gave up, i tried everything from 300, 280, 250 etc and all in between and havent had any luck which seems my board likes this range.

I can give 200 a try again but I literally tried every thing at that range, cant get it to run stable even at 4.8 with 1.56v for some reason.

this cpu is a real pain to overclock.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> I have been using HWMonitor free for years and have never once seen this problem. I mean to each their own but there's nothing wrong with the software itself. Most likely the system was unstable or some other software such as AISuite interfering.
> 
> 
> 
> No mate you are quite mistaken, i too was using hwmonitor but i couldnt do with the false readings of temps and voltage, i even rma a psu cause of it lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hwinfo64 ftw!
Click to expand...

the proof is in this thread, idr when exactly but a while ago hwmonitor was CAUSING bsod. period, was fixed by removing it ( and ironically installing hwinfo, but that was not the reason it stopped bsod ) and not just one person~ multiple

no hw monitor is without its false readings, but either way hwinfo has been the best for me
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *06yfz450ridr*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> first DUMP ( uninstall ) hwmonitor as it has been known to cause issues with FX cpus ( freezing ) and get hwinfo ) as it is better then hwmonitor anyway
> according to your rig you have 2dimms of 1866? 1.2 should be plenty ( ish may need 1.25, this causes the most heat ) sounds to me like you can not keep up with the heat and it is causing freezing
> 
> what bios are you running on your saberkitty ?
> 
> when you say no further are you using fsb or multi to oc, personally i would not recommend fsb untill you know what you are doing ( which you might, i dont know you so dont take that personally. ) as all FX have fsb holes where they wont work, and it can differ chip to chip, board to board ( meaning you could take out your cpu and it may have the same holes in another board, or it may not )
> .....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hw info still has its issues, if I run it even with HDD monitoring disabled i get huge spikes when gaming.
> 
> but regardless im on 2301 i was on 2103 but still had the same issues.
> 
> i figured 1.2-1.3v was fine for just 2 dimms as well but I tried boosting it regardless.
> 
> plus my temps are fine, i now only run one rad in push and my other rad in pull vs both push/pull in my case and still get lower temps since its on my bench.
> 
> I would think 2x220mm rads should work decently even if they are qps with 12 fpi, not the greatest but my temps seem to be good.
> 
> that reminds me dont use food coloring as a dye, it clogged my block solid, had to do some cleaning to get it running back the way it was haha
> 
> also this is my 3rd fx cpu haha, started with a 6300, then the 8320, then this cpu. for me around a 230 bclk I had the most stable results when adjusting the multiplier as well.
> 
> it seems everything I tried at 200 really didnt play well. ive tried everything on this cpu using 200 with really no luck 230-236 has gotten me stable, even my 8320/6300 was the same way it ran best at 230-233.
> 
> I tried searching for holes but i gave up, i tried everything from 300, 280, 250 etc and all in between and havent had any luck which seems my board likes this range.
> 
> I can give 200 a try again but I literally tried every thing at that range, cant get it to run stable even at 4.8 with 1.56v for some reason.
> 
> this cpu is a real pain to overclock.
Click to expand...


fyi 99% of all dyes are made from solids and will separate eventually this includes food coloring

what settings are you changing ? just fsb/multi/ vcore


----------



## IronMonkey187

Hi,

I'm currently running my rig at following settings:

[email protected] (200x24)
ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0
Corsair H100i cooling
VCore = 1.425V
CPU/NB voltage = 1.25V
2x4GB DDR3-1600MHz 9-9-9-28 1T

Idle temps are Socket 41°C Package: 25-28°C
Under IBT at Very high the temps reach Socket = 84°C, Package = 57°C after third run

Are these normal temps?


----------



## Nisrock7863

The Asus M5A99FX motherboards all seem to suffer from high socket temps, likely due to the 6+2 power phase. Try sticking a fan to the back of your CPU socket to keep air moving back there. The fan from the stock CPU cooler and some double stick tape should do the trick.


----------



## Gregory14

I tried that once, but there is no outside airflow. It would make more sense if you cut a fan hole and mounted it so air is pulled away from the socket/vrm in the back of mobo.

I had to lower my clock and vcore, probably gonna scale down even further cuz ambient temps are hot, even with water its warm.


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> The Asus M5A99FX motherboards all seem to suffer from high socket temps, likely due to the 6+2 power phase. Try sticking a fan to the back of your CPU socket to keep air moving back there. The fan from the stock CPU cooler and some double stick tape should do the trick.


Ok, just tried it out with a spare 140mm fan and it lowered the temps to 75°C at the same load

But there's no way i'm going to be able to install the sidepanel again. So it's going to be there for the OC'ing and stability testing only.

Just wanna see how far i can go with this.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm currently running my rig at following settings:
> 
> [email protected] (200x24)
> ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0
> Corsair H100i cooling
> VCore = 1.425V
> CPU/NB voltage = 1.25V
> 2x4GB DDR3-1600MHz 9-9-9-28 1T
> 
> Idle temps are Socket 41°C Package: 25-28°C
> Under IBT at Very high the temps reach Socket = 84°C, Package = 57°C after third run
> 
> Are these normal temps?


I am running mine right now at 4.8GHz and Vcore 1.464, CPU-NB 1.3V and I max at 52 degrees C. Im on a custom water loop though. What rpm is your pump turning? and the fans?


----------



## Jam0r

Guys after some advice

I bought a CPU and motherboard bundle from a guy and i'm trying to get the best from it.

It's running fine at 4.8Ghz, whether that's using just the multi or going down the FSB method instead (300x16) but anything above 4.8GHz just refuses to be stable, even though the previous owner managed this.

Temps are fine. Running prime at 4.8GHz the CPU never goes above 47 degrees and I have a fan blowing over the VRMs. They are warm/cold to the touch

Any things I can try?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jam0r*
> 
> Guys after some advice
> 
> I bought a CPU and motherboard bundle from a guy and i'm trying to get the best from it.
> 
> It's running fine at 4.8Ghz, whether that's using just the multi or going down the FSB method instead (300x16) but anything above 4.8GHz just refuses to be stable, even though the previous owner managed this.
> 
> Temps are fine. Running prime at 4.8GHz the CPU never goes above 47 degrees and I have a fan blowing over the VRMs. They are warm/cold to the touch
> 
> Any things I can try?


we need more info.

screenshots of bios ( fat32 formatted usb press f12 )

all volts, multis, cpu options, and digi options please


----------



## CmdrAlchemy

Im new to this forum (posting) but wanted to share my results. I have used this thread allot for my overclocking and the information at front page is gold.

I had this somewhat stable at 5GHz. Was stable in prime, then got few random shutdowns and then started to fail Blend at 4th test. Started to play with the UEFI again and accidentally hit the auto tune thing and I had to start from memory again. Had to drop the voltage since the offset was wrong was running few steps above 0.2 but after the bios defaults it wandered a bit higher and started to give me CPU Overvoltage varnings during startup.

Anyhow managed to drop the voltage settings few steps but during load its pretty much same thing, 1.61V 1.62V acording to sensors. And did another prime and was stable but the package/socket temp i'm guessing is getting 70c+, CPU was hitting below 60c. Did also raise the CPU Current from 130% to 140% but will have to solve the socket temp somehow.

*--- Settings*
AMD Turbo CORE -- *Disabled*
DRAM -- *1866Mhz 9-10-9-27-48-1T*
CPU/NB Frequency --- *2400Mhz*
HT Link Speed --- *2400Mhz*

*-- Voltages*
CPU --- *1.62 LOAD*
CPU/NB --- *1.27V*
CPU/NB LLC --- *Auto*
DRAM --- *1.5*

CPU LLC --- *Ultra High*
CPU Current Capability --- *140%*
CPU/NB Current Capability --- *130%*
DRAM Current Capability --- *100%*

*-- CPU Settings*
Cool'n'Quiet --- *Enabled*
C1E --- *Disabled*
SVM --- *Disabled*
C6 State --- *Disabled*
HPC Mode --- *Disabled*
AMP --- *Disabled*

Code:



Code:


fam15h_power-pci-00c4
Adapter: PCI adapter
power1:        6.75 W  (crit = 125.19 W)

k10temp-pci-00c3
Adapter: PCI adapter
CPU Temp:     +49.6°C  (high = +70.0°C)
                       (crit = +90.0°C, hyst = +87.0°C)

it8721-isa-0290
Adapter: ISA adapter
+12V:           +11.70 V  (min = +11.40 V, max = +12.60 V)
+5V:             +4.82 V  (min =  +4.76 V, max =  +5.23 V)
Vcore:           +1.61 V  (min =  +0.85 V, max =  +1.60 V)  ALARM
+3.3V:           +3.29 V  (min =  +1.68 V, max =  +1.82 V)  ALARM
VDDA:            +2.52 V  (min =  +2.20 V, max =  +2.80 V)
DRAM:            +1.54 V  (min =  +0.40 V, max =  +0.49 V)  ALARM
3VSB:            +3.84 V  (min =  +0.84 V, max =  +4.01 V)
Vbat:            +3.31 V  
CPU Fan:        1638 RPM  (min =  600 RPM)
CPU Fan opt:       0 RPM  (min =    0 RPM)
Chassis FAN #1:  725 RPM  (min =  399 RPM)
CPU Temp:        +62.0°C  (low  =  +0.0°C, high = +70.0°C)  sensor = thermistor
M/B Temp:        +28.0°C  (low  =  +0.0°C, high = +60.0°C)  sensor = thermistor
intrusion0:     OK

CPU | Freq 
   0|  5015
   1|  5016
   2|  5016
   3|  5015
   4|  5015
   5|  5015
   6|  5015
   7|  5016


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CmdrAlchemy*
> 
> Im new to this forum (posting) but wanted to share my results. I have used this thread allot for my overclocking and the information at front page is gold.
> 
> I had this somewhat stable at 5GHz. Was stable in prime, then got few random shutdowns and then started to fail Blend at 4th test. Started to play with the UEFI again and accidentally hit the auto tune thing and I had to start from memory again. Had to drop the voltage since the offset was wrong was running few steps above 0.2 but after the bios defaults it wandered a bit higher and started to give me CPU Overvoltage varnings during startup.
> 
> Anyhow managed to drop the voltage settings few steps but during load its pretty much same thing, 1.61V 1.62V acording to sensors. And did another prime and was stable but the package/socket temp i'm guessing is getting 70c+, CPU was hitting below 60c. Did also raise the CPU Current from 130% to 140% but will have to solve the socket temp somehow.
> 
> *--- Settings*
> AMD Turbo CORE -- *Disabled*
> DRAM -- *1866Mhz 9-10-9-27-48-1T*
> CPU/NB Frequency --- *2400Mhz*
> HT Link Speed --- *2400Mhz*
> 
> *-- Voltages*
> CPU --- *1.62 LOAD*
> CPU/NB --- *1.27V*
> CPU/NB LLC --- *Auto*
> DRAM --- *1.5*
> 
> CPU LLC --- *Ultra High*
> CPU Current Capability --- *140%*
> CPU/NB Current Capability --- *130%*
> DRAM Current Capability --- *100%*
> 
> *-- CPU Settings*
> Cool'n'Quiet --- *Enabled*
> C1E --- *Disabled*
> SVM --- *Disabled*
> C6 State --- *Disabled*
> HPC Mode --- *Disabled*
> AMP --- *Disabled*
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> fam15h_power-pci-00c4
> Adapter: PCI adapter
> power1:        6.75 W  (crit = 125.19 W)
> 
> k10temp-pci-00c3
> Adapter: PCI adapter
> CPU Temp:     +49.6°C  (high = +70.0°C)
> (crit = +90.0°C, hyst = +87.0°C)
> 
> it8721-isa-0290
> Adapter: ISA adapter
> +12V:           +11.70 V  (min = +11.40 V, max = +12.60 V)
> +5V:             +4.82 V  (min =  +4.76 V, max =  +5.23 V)
> Vcore:           +1.61 V  (min =  +0.85 V, max =  +1.60 V)  ALARM
> +3.3V:           +3.29 V  (min =  +1.68 V, max =  +1.82 V)  ALARM
> VDDA:            +2.52 V  (min =  +2.20 V, max =  +2.80 V)
> DRAM:            +1.54 V  (min =  +0.40 V, max =  +0.49 V)  ALARM
> 3VSB:            +3.84 V  (min =  +0.84 V, max =  +4.01 V)
> Vbat:            +3.31 V
> CPU Fan:        1638 RPM  (min =  600 RPM)
> CPU Fan opt:       0 RPM  (min =    0 RPM)
> Chassis FAN #1:  725 RPM  (min =  399 RPM)
> CPU Temp:        +62.0°C  (low  =  +0.0°C, high = +70.0°C)  sensor = thermistor
> M/B Temp:        +28.0°C  (low  =  +0.0°C, high = +60.0°C)  sensor = thermistor
> intrusion0:     OK
> 
> CPU | Freq
> 0|  5015
> 1|  5016
> 2|  5016
> 3|  5015
> 4|  5015
> 5|  5015
> 6|  5015
> 7|  5016


Can you get it stable lowering your Vcore? I run 5.0GHz at 1.55Vcore. You get a lot of heat with more voltage. Could help uping your RAM voltage. So many variables.... i know..


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I am running mine right now at 4.8GHz and Vcore 1.464, CPU-NB 1.3V and I max at 52 degrees C. Im on a custom water loop though. What rpm is your pump turning? and the fans?


The pump speed is fixed at 2200rpm
fan speed goes up to 2550rpm max.

Now I'm running at [email protected] 1.4125V (1.416V according to HWMonitor) CPU/NB 1.25

CPU LLC --- Ultra High
CPU Current Capability --- 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability --- 130%

C'n Q enabled
C1E enabled
C6 enabled
SVM Disabled
HPC Disabled

But it's no problem for IntelBurnTest 2.54 to rise Socket temp up to 84°C with a max package temp of 57°C.

After 10 minute run of Prime95 v27.9 temps are 71°C socket and 50° Package temp.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> The pump speed is fixed at 2200rpm
> fan speed goes up to 2550rpm max.
> 
> Now I'm running at [email protected] 1.4125V (1.416V according to HWMonitor) CPU/NB 1.25
> 
> CPU LLC --- Ultra High
> CPU Current Capability --- 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability --- 130%
> 
> C'n Q enabled
> C1E enabled
> C6 enabled
> SVM Disabled
> HPC Disabled
> 
> But it's no problem for IntelBurnTest 2.54 to rise Socket temp up to 84°C with a max package temp of 57°C.
> 
> After 10 minute run of Prime95 v27.9 temps are 71°C socket and 50° Package temp.


its normally 10C difference between core and socket
your socket too high


----------



## Razer505

Hey i installed HWinfo,

Also i received my new CPU, i guess the last one must have been defective i've been running small FFT's and line packs all morning to check stability and that must have been the problem. im good temps are holding at 59C after 21 minutes of line pack, package @ 40


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> its normally 10C difference between core and socket
> your socket too highits normally 10C difference between core and socket
> your socket too high


It is, isn't it?
However, the specs of the AM3+ socket tell me it's not that disastrous: According to AMD Publication # 48988:

Sockets must meet LLCR and visual inspection requirements after being subjected to 500 hours of
temperature life testing at 115°C. This test should be conducted with the associated heatsink
assembly (AMD part number 91B0000090) attached to the processor package.

But truth be told I'd expected the socket temp to be at least 10°C less at a less-than 20% overclock.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> It is, isn't it?
> However, the specs of the AM3+ socket tell me it's not that disastrous: According to AMD Publication # 48988:
> 
> Sockets must meet LLCR and visual inspection requirements after being subjected to 500 hours of
> temperature life testing at 115°C. This test should be conducted with the associated heatsink
> assembly (AMD part number 91B0000090) attached to the processor package.
> 
> But truth be told I'd expected the socket temp to be at least 10°C less at a less-than 20% overclock.


Socket temp can help create instability, although the socket can go up that high, doesn't mean that the board around that socket can, plus the added heat on the other components may push them over the edge of stability


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm currently running my rig at following settings:
> 
> [email protected] (200x24)
> ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0
> Corsair H100i cooling
> VCore = 1.425V
> CPU/NB voltage = 1.25V
> 2x4GB DDR3-1600MHz 9-9-9-28 1T
> 
> Idle temps are Socket 41°C Package: 25-28°C
> Under IBT at Very high the temps reach Socket = 84°C, Package = 57°C after third run
> 
> Are these normal temps?


Is the H100i not the issue? Idle temps look a bit high to mee, I would expect socket temps @ idle to be somewhere in the mid thirties. My fx6300 @4,2GHz is still in progress but currently my max temps after 30 minutes small Ftt's in prime 27.7 are 41C with vcore @ 1,236V


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Is the H100i not the issue? Idle temps look a bit high to mee, I would expect socket temps @ idle to be somewhere in the mid thirties. My fx6300 @4,2GHz is still in progress but currently my max temps after 30 minutes small Ftt's in prime 27.7 are 41C with vcore @ 1,236V


Well, I used your setup as a reference:

[email protected] (core 5/6 disabled) Vcore=1.236V
M5A99X EVO R2.0

After 25 minutes P95 27.9 small FTT's max socket temp was 46°C / core temp: 31°C.

I don't think it's the H100i that's the issue...

Is it possible that the 6+2 phase power gets hotter and transmits the heat through the loadlines to the socket?


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> Well, I used your setup as a reference:
> 
> [email protected] (core 5/6 disabled) Vcore=1.236V
> M5A99X EVO R2.0
> 
> After 25 minutes P95 27.9 small FTT's max socket temp was 46°C / core temp: 31°C.
> 
> I don't think it's the H100i that's the issue...
> 
> Is it possible that the 6+2 phase power gets hotter and transmits the heat through the loadlines to the socket?


With all 8 cores enabled the socket temperature levels out at 51°C / core temp 31°C


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> Well, I used your setup as a reference:
> 
> [email protected] (core 5/6 disabled) Vcore=1.236V
> M5A99X EVO R2.0
> 
> After 25 minutes P95 27.9 small FTT's max socket temp was 46°C / core temp: 31°C.
> 
> I don't think it's the H100i that's the issue...
> 
> Is it possible that the 6+2 phase power gets hotter and transmits the heat through the loadlines to the socket?


I think a fan on the back of your mobo could help to cool down the socket temps.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1484303/fx-8350-and-hyper-212-evo-temp-problem

In the meantime I bumped my chip to 4,4GHz @1,26V, after 30 min small FTT's my max temp was 43C.
What is the fan setup in your case?


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> I think a fan on the back of your mobo could help to cool down the socket temps.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1484303/fx-8350-and-hyper-212-evo-temp-problem
> 
> In the meantime I bumped my chip to 4,4GHz @1,26V, after 30 min small FTT's my max temp was 43C.
> What is the fan setup in your case?


Fan setup is: 2x120mm front intake over hdcages,
1x140mm back exhaust
2x120mm on H100i mounted configuration: pull intake. (100i is mounted on the ceiling of the case)

The fan would work but I'd better modify my sidepanel for that...

In the mean time I did a little research: I looked on the CPU support list and it doesn't mention the FX-9xxx series whereas with the sabertooth and Crosshair it is supported so I might be right about the phase power design and heat buildup.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> Fan setup is: 2x120mm front intake over hdcages,
> 1x140mm back exhaust
> 2x120mm on H100i mounted configuration: pull intake. (100i is mounted on the ceiling of the case)
> 
> The fan would work but I'd better modify my sidepanel for that...


Do you have room to put a 120 or 140mm at the bottom as intake? If so you could put the H100i as exhaust. It might be that your airflow is disturbed as you only have one 140mm as exhaust.
I don't know which case you're using and the space between the sidepanel but akasa has some nice slim pwm fans available

http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product.list.tpl&type=Fans&type_sub=Slim


----------



## IronMonkey187

I'm using a CM Storm Trooper case,

I tried to configure the H100i as an exhaust but the fans had quite a hard time and didn't rev to full speed, it didn't cool any better either.
And the case comes with a topmounted dust filter.

I think Bottom fan will create a "pressure wall" for the front intake fans.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> I'm using a CM Storm Trooper case,
> 
> I tried to configure the H100i as an exhaust but the fans had quite a hard time and didn't rev to full speed, it didn't cool any better either.
> And the case comes with a topmounted dust filter.
> 
> I think Bottom fan will create a "pressure wall" for the front intake fans.


Are you using Corsair Link? I would not recommend that..Fan Expert of Asus does the job pretty wel.
I have 2 140mm as front intake, 120mm at the bottom, 120 as exhaust and 2 120 mm in push as exhaust..until now no issues with the temps or airflow in my 450D.

I have never used a CM Storm Trooper so I can't give an opinion on the case but I really think 1 fan as exhaust is not enough to get heat out of the case


----------



## IronMonkey187

Indeed, Corsair Link is a bit of a fail. I use xpertFan at the moment and the mobo fan connections. Way better.

Well, I ordered some SP120 HP PWM fans to replace the stock fans. I'll put then in push out. When done, I'll add that bottom 120mm fan.

One of the drawbacks of this case is actually the handle of the case which i think restricts the ventilation a little. But truth be told I was using corsair link when i tested the exhaust config.

Settings at the moment:

FX-8350 4.6GHz Vcore 1.362V

After 25 min. P95 small FTT: socket temp stable at 64°C, core at 44°C


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> Indeed, Corsair Link is a bit of a fail. I use xpertFan at the moment and the mobo fan connections. Way better.
> 
> Well, I ordered some SP120 HP PWM fans to replace the stock fans. I'll put then in push out. When done, I'll add that bottom 120mm fan.
> 
> One of the drawbacks of this case is actually the handle of the case which i think restricts the ventilation a little. But truth be told I was using corsair link when i tested the exhaust config.
> 
> Settings at the moment:
> 
> FX-8350 4.6GHz Vcore 1.362V
> 
> After 25 min. P95 small FTT: socket temp stable at 64°C, core at 44°C


Core temps are not too bad but socket temp is close to limit if you want the oc last for a long time. What you also could do to improve the airflow is remove (partially) the hdd cages if possible. I removed it completly and installed the ssd on the back of the motherboard tray..it really improved the airflow. When I ordered the H100i i also got Noctua's NF-F12 because the stock fans are really loud. Today the Noctua NF-A15's and another set of NF-F12's have arrived. The stock case fans are not pwm controlled and I know the looks of the Noctua's are terrible but they really preform and have also good noise levels.


----------



## Keakaha

Hello I just signed up to say thanks to the OP for this guide and everyone elses input, Ive managed to get my FX8320 to 4.4Ghz @ 1.275v stable with some great temps to boot.
However I have noticed my PSU making some strange noises while running my OC profile, it makes a small buzzing noise that lasts about a second and happens about every 5 or so minutes, It almost sounds like something vibrating or something rubbing against a fan, but i have double and triple checked everything and am 99% sure it isnt a fan rubbing on something. Anyways when i go back to stock settings the noise goes away.

Any ideas what this could be?

Im guessing I may have to start trial and error with every setting to figure out what it is.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> Indeed, Corsair Link is a bit of a fail. I use xpertFan at the moment and the mobo fan connections. Way better.
> 
> Well, I ordered some SP120 HP PWM fans to replace the stock fans. I'll put then in push out. When done, I'll add that bottom 120mm fan.
> 
> One of the drawbacks of this case is actually the handle of the case which i think restricts the ventilation a little. But truth be told I was using corsair link when i tested the exhaust config.
> 
> Settings at the moment:
> 
> FX-8350 4.6GHz Vcore 1.362V
> 
> After 25 min. P95 small FTT: socket temp stable at 64°C, core at 44°C


I used a TT AIO with my 8350 on the M5A99FX Pro and same results. The 8 core CPU just puts too much strain on the Power delivery once you start pushing all cores.. Even with additional cooling to the VRM and back of the board I stopped at 4.64. I just believe it couldn't supply enough " stable" power passed that point.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

First of all I would like to thank the OP for this great guide. It helped me as a newbee to oc'ing a lot. I followed the guide step by step, to check stability I run p95 small FTT's for 20 minutes to check max temps.

After 4,3GHz I need to bump the voltage by relative big steps to get it stable while running P95.

Voltage @4.3 GHz:
http://valid.canardpc.com/a3m4sv

Voltage @4,6 GHz:
http://valid.canardpc.com/7rgu4g

Is this normal for just a 300MHz clock increase?
Temps I'm not worried about, max temps after 20 min P95 @4,6GHz are 48C


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> First of all I would like to thank the OP for this great guide. It helped me as a newbee to oc'ing a lot. I followed the guide step by step, to check stability I run p95 small FTT's for 20 minutes to check max temps.
> 
> After 4,3GHz I need to bump the voltage by relative big steps to get it stable while running P95.
> 
> Voltage @4.3 GHz:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/a3m4sv
> 
> Voltage @4,6 GHz:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/7rgu4g
> 
> Is this normal for just a 300MHz clock increase?
> Temps I'm not worried about, max temps after 20 min P95 @4,6GHz are 48C


Yepper that's quite normal and the higher your clock goes the more it takes for that next 100 and so on and so on.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Yepper that's quite normal and the higher your clock goes the more it takes for that next 100 and so on and so on.


Okay..currently it's going really fast with the voltages..1,368 is not enough to keep the rig stable @4,7GHz


----------



## Johan45

Well my 8350 was a bit of a dog, just for reference I had 4.5 at 1.4v then 4.64 was 1.476v had a stable at 4.9 with 1.58v http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7484325&postcount=1

Every CPU is different but they all hit a spot where the increase in volts just isn't worth the added V_Core


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Well my 8350 was a bit of a dog, just for reference I had 4.5 at 1.4v then 4.64 was 1.476v had a stable at 4.9 with 1.58v http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showpost.php?p=7484325&postcount=1
> 
> Every CPU is different but they all hit a spot where the increase in volts just isn't worth the added V_Core


I will continue tomorrow and see what is needed to get 4,7 stable..I have plenty of room before I hit the thermal limits although I will install a fan on the backplate of the mobo and one on the heatsinks

Finally I got it stable @4,7GHz with a vcore of 1,38 under load, temps still ok and max 51C at the socket


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> I used a TT AIO with my 8350 on the M5A99FX Pro and same results. The 8 core CPU just puts too much strain on the Power delivery once you start pushing all cores.. Even with additional cooling to the VRM and back of the board I stopped at 4.64. I just believe it couldn't supply enough " stable" power passed that point.


True,

It's the 6+2 phase power design that's really getting pushed to the limit. According to eXtreme Power Supply Calculator v2.5, the Vishera consumes about 150-160W at these speed and voltage settings.
At [email protected] it's already consuming 184W. A little too much for the EVO and PRO model line of motherboards, I guess...
I'll stick with [email protected] for now...


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Keakaha*
> 
> Hello I just signed up to say thanks to the OP for this guide and everyone elses input, Ive managed to get my FX8320 to 4.4Ghz @ 1.275v stable with some great temps to boot.
> However I have noticed my PSU making some strange noises while running my OC profile, it makes a small buzzing noise that lasts about a second and happens about every 5 or so minutes, It almost sounds like something vibrating or something rubbing against a fan, but i have double and triple checked everything and am 99% sure it isnt a fan rubbing on something. Anyways when i go back to stock settings the noise goes away.
> 
> Any ideas what this could be?
> 
> Im guessing I may have to start trial and error with every setting to figure out what it is.


may be coil whine but idk generally coil whine is described as a high pitched whine
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> First of all I would like to thank the OP for this great guide. It helped me as a newbee to oc'ing a lot. I followed the guide step by step, to check stability I run p95 small FTT's for 20 minutes to check max temps.
> 
> After 4,3GHz I need to bump the voltage by relative big steps to get it stable while running P95.
> 
> Voltage @4.3 GHz:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/a3m4sv
> 
> Voltage @4,6 GHz:
> http://valid.canardpc.com/7rgu4g
> 
> Is this normal for just a 300MHz clock increase?
> Temps I'm not worried about, max temps after 20 min P95 @4,6GHz are 48C
> 
> 
> 
> Yepper that's quite normal and the higher your clock goes the more it takes for that next 100 and so on and so on.
Click to expand...









this, and around 4.7-4.8 it gets huge called a voltage wall


----------



## myzko

Perhaps someone could help me out, I just recently replaced my Phenom II X6 1090T with a AMD FX-8320 because I wanted to reach higher clocks. I'm still using my cooler Phanteks PH-TC14PE that efficiently cooled my Phenom II X6 1090T @ 4GHz and a voltage of around 1.4~

However, I am confounded by the high thermals I am getting with this chip and this cooler, as I am sure the cooler and cpu surface were clean enough, and there is a good thermal compound in between and it's fitted rightly there.

Prime95 makes the thermals hit the roof and the computer shuts down. Here is a picture running 7-Zip, which doesn't overheat the CPU.


Am I wrong and the CPU_Cooler has to be seated wrong? Or is supposed to be this hot with this cooler & voltage/frequency?


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myzko*
> 
> Perhaps someone could help me out, I just recently replaced my Phenom II X6 1090T with a AMD FX-8320 because I wanted to reach higher clocks. I'm still using my cooler that efficiently cooled my Phenom II X6 1090T @ 4GHz and a voltage of around 1.4~
> 
> However, I am confounded by the high thermals I am getting with this chip and this cooler, as I am sure the cooler and cpu surface were clean enough, and there is a good thermal compound in between and it's fitted rightly there.
> 
> Prime95 makes the thermals hit the roof and the computer shuts down. Here is a picture running 7-Zip, which doesn't overheat the CPU.
> 
> 
> Am I wrong and the CPU_Cooler has to be seated wrong? Or is supposed to be this hot with this cooler & voltage/frequency?


Pretty steep for an aircooled oc. Let's see. At those settings your FX consumes about 190W. Lot of heat for your vrm's. What's the Phase Power design on that board?

High Vcore, High frequency, low cooler rpm(!) Check settings/cooling profile!!!!


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myzko*
> 
> Perhaps someone could help me out, I just recently replaced my Phenom II X6 1090T with a AMD FX-8320 because I wanted to reach higher clocks. I'm still using my cooler Phanteks PH-TC14PE that efficiently cooled my Phenom II X6 1090T @ 4GHz and a voltage of around 1.4~
> 
> However, I am confounded by the high thermals I am getting with this chip and this cooler, as I am sure the cooler and cpu surface were clean enough, and there is a good thermal compound in between and it's fitted rightly there.
> 
> Prime95 makes the thermals hit the roof and the computer shuts down. Here is a picture running 7-Zip, which doesn't overheat the CPU.
> 
> 
> Am I wrong and the CPU_Cooler has to be seated wrong? Or is supposed to be this hot with this cooler & voltage/frequency?


You will get your best answers in the air cooled forum as that is where the people with knowledge of air coolers hang out. That cooler can easily cool your cpu at that clock when everything is working correctly.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myzko*
> 
> Perhaps someone could help me out, I just recently replaced my Phenom II X6 1090T with a AMD FX-8320 because I wanted to reach higher clocks. I'm still using my cooler Phanteks PH-TC14PE that efficiently cooled my Phenom II X6 1090T @ 4GHz and a voltage of around 1.4~
> 
> However, I am confounded by the high thermals I am getting with this chip and this cooler, as I am sure the cooler and cpu surface were clean enough, and there is a good thermal compound in between and it's fitted rightly there.
> 
> Prime95 makes the thermals hit the roof and the computer shuts down. Here is a picture running 7-Zip, which doesn't overheat the CPU.
> 
> 
> Am I wrong and the CPU_Cooler has to be seated wrong? Or is supposed to be this hot with this cooler & voltage/frequency?


You are about it for your cooler, What are your ambients? You can attribute the extra heat to the extra 2 physical cores.. plus the mArch is different as well which it is a known fact that the bulldozer/PD/SR modules are not the coolest architecture out there..

I went from an 1100T at 4.1 to the 8350 and saw how much more cooling I needed with the FX chip..


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> may be coil whine but idk generally coil whine is described as a high pitched whine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this, and around 4.7-4.8 it gets huge called a voltage wall


Does this mean I towards the limits of my fx chip? Finally got 4,7GHz stable @1,38 under load (running P95 small FTT's for 20 minutes).
I didn't test 4,8 yet but I assume looking at the previous bumps I need about 1,45V to get it stable


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> Does this mean I towards the limits of my fx chip? Finally got 4,7GHz stable @1,38 under load (running P95 small FTT's for 20 minutes).
> I didn't test 4,8 yet but I assume looking at the previous bumps I need about 1,45V to get it stable


That means that you are towards the limit of the VRMs on the mother board.. I guarantee your chip can go a LOOOOTTTT Further


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> That means that you are towards the limit of the VRMs on the mother board.. I guarantee your chip can go a LOOOOTTTT Further


I'm in the same situation, limited by the VRM's... not that I think the M5A99X Evo is a bad board, quite the opposite. But I'm considering to replace anyway with either a Crosshair V Formula Z or a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> I'm in the same situation, limited by the VRM's... not that I think the M5A99X Evo is a bad board, quite the opposite. But I'm considering to replace anyway with either a Crosshair V Formula Z or a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0.


Those are good choices to move to.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> That means that you are towards the limit of the VRMs on the mother board.. I guarantee your chip can go a LOOOOTTTT Further


I'm planning to install a 80mm fan at the backplate of the mobo and another on the heatsink. Would this improve the oc ability?
Although the sensors of my sabertooth measure max temps of 60C under load on the heatsink so I think there should be enough room to continue


----------



## Nisrock7863

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myzko*
> 
> Perhaps someone could help me out, I just recently replaced my Phenom II X6 1090T with a AMD FX-8320 because I wanted to reach higher clocks. I'm still using my cooler Phanteks PH-TC14PE that efficiently cooled my Phenom II X6 1090T @ 4GHz and a voltage of around 1.4~
> 
> However, I am confounded by the high thermals I am getting with this chip and this cooler, as I am sure the cooler and cpu surface were clean enough, and there is a good thermal compound in between and it's fitted rightly there.
> 
> Prime95 makes the thermals hit the roof and the computer shuts down. Here is a picture running 7-Zip, which doesn't overheat the CPU.
> 
> 
> Am I wrong and the CPU_Cooler has to be seated wrong? Or is supposed to be this hot with this cooler & voltage/frequency?


Try using IBT AVX on Very High for 20 runs to stress test. Prime95 is great, but it generates a lot of unnecessary heat on FX chips. You can find the application in the original post of the Vishera owners thread.

That said, 4.7 is pretty good for air. You may be able to go higher with IBT AVX as a stress test since it doesn't generate as much heat. How's your case cooling?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> I'm planning to install a 80mm fan at the backplate of the mobo and another on the heatsink. Would this improve the oc ability?
> Although the sensors of my sabertooth measure max temps of 60C under load on the heatsink so I think there should be enough room to continue


You have a little room to go but not much.. the fan on the backplate does help.. but only so much.. Although for me it makes the difference of being able to game at 5.2 or BSOD at start
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> Try using IBT AVX on Very High for 20 runs to stress test. Prime95 is great, but it generates a lot of unnecessary heat on FX chips. You can find the application in the original post of the Vishera owners thread.
> 
> That said, 4.7 is pretty good for air. You may be able to go higher with IBT AVX as a stress test since it doesn't generate as much heat. How's your case cooling?


I still say that it is about the limitation of the board. these 8 cores like to have a lot of power available.. and the heat on the board.. its a tricky combination.. However think about how much more work the VRMs have to do which cause more heat.. which = resistance, in the end.. he is about at the limit may be able to push a little more however at 4.8-4.9 there is a huge voltage wall that a 6+2 power phase just can't keep up with.


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You have a little room to go but not much.. the fan on the backplate does help.. but only so much.. Although for me it makes the difference of being able to game at 5.2 or BSOD at start


I will install the fan this week and check to which level I can boost the rig..if it's true you are saying than I'm a little disappointed in the performance of the Sabertooth..I thought due it's 8+2 power phase and ceramix on the heatsinks it would be able to deal with high oc


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> I will install the fan this week and check to which level I can boost the rig..if it's true you are saying than I'm a little disappointed in the performance of the Sabertooth..I thought due it's 8+2 power phase and ceramix on the heatsinks it would be able to deal with high oc


I was speaking terms of the m5 990 evo/pro and lesser boards.. No the Saber (which I have) with a dud chip... Can do very very well.. the digi options are your friends.. I have hit 5.3 and 5.4 but limited cause I lost the silicon lottery


----------



## Magic Sjefke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I was speaking terms of the m5 990 evo/pro and lesser boards.. No the Saber (which I have) with a dud chip... Can do very very well.. the digi options are your friends.. I have hit 5.3 and 5.4 but limited cause I lost the silicon lottery


I followed the guide step by step and did all the required digi settings..while trying to do a suicide run with my FX6300 to see if it would clock +2GHz above stock speeds I even wasn't able to boot into bios..but maybe that might be caused by the ram I use. Until 4,3GHz I was able to get the system stable under load (IBT and P95) a 1,224V, after these clocks I had to bump it real hard to get it stable under P95..IBT is still not stable at 1,38V.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> I'm in the same situation, limited by the VRM's... not that I think the M5A99X Evo is a bad board, quite the opposite. But I'm considering to replace anyway with either a Crosshair V Formula Z or a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0.


Why not the GEN3 Sabertooth?


----------



## Nisrock7863

Yeah, the M5A99FX boards do have some pretty bad socket heat problems. Even with a fan blowing on the back of mine and a hole cut in the back of my case to let it pull cool air in it still runs warm. They're great boards if you're not really planning on going as high as absolutely possible, though, and at an excellent price.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Why not the GEN3 Sabertooth?


The R2.0 and Gen3 are about the same minus a PLX chip for the PCIe 3 lanes.. which really doesn't make a difference.


----------



## RockZero

Hello experts Overclockers!
I'm from Caracas, Venezuela, I'm new for this site and also new to Overclocking my machine, I found this tutorial very useful for my system ( CPU AMD FX 8320 / MB ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0/ 8 GB RAM G.Skill Ripjaws 1866 Mhz ) to begin to test OC with corsair hydro H80i Cooler.

Here my Results for Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz for first try.

1) *4.4 GHZ*, CPU Vcore 1.35, CPU/ NB auto ( 1.118v ), Temps ( CPU Core 49.5 °C / CPU Socket 61°C / VRM 68°C ) , Prime95 for 11min stable



2) *4.5 GHZ*, CPU Vcore 1.375, CPU/ NB ( 1.25v ), Temps ( CPU Core 51.5 °C / CPU Socket 63°C / VRM 70°C ) , Prime95 for 11min stable.



Now with this last voltage I try to get 4.6 GHZ stable in prime, and two core Fails ( 7 and 8 ). try to up vcore to 1.39. and one core fails...what do you think ? Do I need to up the CPU/NB Voltage.? I think I room to get some extra MHZ, maybe 4.7 or 4.8 on thermal limits.

Regards!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Magic Sjefke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> You have a little room to go but not much.. the fan on the backplate does help.. but only so much.. Although for me it makes the difference of being able to game at 5.2 or BSOD at start
> 
> 
> 
> I will install the fan this week and check to which level I can boost the rig..if it's true you are saying than I'm a little disappointed in the performance of the Sabertooth..I thought due it's 8+2 power phase and ceramix on the heatsinks it would be able to deal with high oc
Click to expand...

it can but you need to actively cool the vrms
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Why not the GEN3 Sabertooth?
> 
> 
> 
> The R2.0 and Gen3 are about the same minus a PLX chip for the PCIe 3 lanes.. which really doesn't make a difference.
Click to expand...

and 3.0 seems to be eol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RockZero*
> 
> Hello experts Overclockers!
> I'm from Caracas, Venezuela, I'm new for this site and also new to Overclocking my machine, I found this tutorial very useful for my system ( CPU AMD FX 8320 / MB ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0/ 8 GB RAM G.Skill Ripjaws 1866 Mhz ) to begin to test OC with corsair hydro H80i Cooler.
> 
> Here my Results for Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz for first try.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1) *4.4 GHZ*, CPU Vcore 1.35, CPU/ NB auto ( 1.118v ), Temps ( CPU Core 49.5 °C / CPU Socket 61°C / VRM 68°C ) , Prime95 for 11min stable
> 
> 
> 
> 2) *4.5 GHZ*, CPU Vcore 1.375, CPU/ NB ( 1.25v ), Temps ( CPU Core 51.5 °C / CPU Socket 63°C / VRM 70°C ) , Prime95 for 11min stable.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now with this last voltage I try to get 4.6 GHZ stable in prime, and two core Fails ( 7 and 8 ). try to up vcore to 1.39. and one core fails...what do you think ? Do I need to up the CPU/NB Voltage.? I think I room to get some extra MHZ, maybe 4.7 or 4.8 on thermal limits.
> 
> Regards!


more vcore


----------



## frithy

So I followed this guide, but I notice that my socket CPU temp reaches 74C and starts throttling down, but the package(core) temps are only 50C. Is there any way to prevent the throttling at high temp, and is 4.4ghz on just 1.375 volts enough to push the temp that high on the socket or is there something wrong? I'm wondering if it could be a seating issue, I'm currently using a Corsair H90 for cooling. My biggest debate is whether or not to remove the pump and take some alcohol and remove the thermal compound that came with and use some arctic silver MX-4 instead... do you think that would make any difference?

Any answers would be appreciated


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frithy*
> 
> So I followed this guide, but I notice that my socket CPU temp reaches 74C and starts throttling down, but the package(core) temps are only 50C. Is there any way to prevent the throttling at high temp, and is 4.4ghz on just 1.375 volts enough to push the temp that high on the socket or is there something wrong? I'm wondering if it could be a seating issue, I'm currently using a Corsair H90 for cooling. My biggest debate is whether or not to remove the pump and take some alcohol and remove the thermal compound that came with and use some arctic silver MX-4 instead... do you think that would make any difference?
> 
> Any answers would be appreciated


fan on VRMs and back of the board


----------



## frithy

Can't leave my case open to do that, too many cats, too much hair lol... it's why I got the 650d, so I'd have filters front and bottom, and lots of airflow inside the case. The H90 is top mounted in a pull config with the back fan as exhaust.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frithy*
> 
> Can't leave my case open to do that, too many cats, too much hair lol... it's why I got the 650d, so I'd have filters front and bottom, and lots of airflow inside the case. The H90 is top mounted in a pull config with the back fan as exhaust.


well fans on the vrm will help a lot


----------



## frithy

Outside of that, is there anything else? or am I stuck with a 4.3ghz stable?


----------



## LinusBE

Fan on the back of the motherboard is the most effective against high socket temps.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frithy*
> 
> So I followed this guide, but I notice that my socket CPU temp reaches 74C and starts throttling down, but the package(core) temps are only 50C. Is there any way to prevent the throttling at high temp, and is 4.4ghz on just 1.375 volts enough to push the temp that high on the socket or is there something wrong? I'm wondering if it could be a seating issue, I'm currently using a Corsair H90 for cooling. My biggest debate is whether or not to remove the pump and take some alcohol and remove the thermal compound that came with and use some arctic silver MX-4 instead... do you think that would make any difference?
> 
> Any answers would be appreciated


I use to run AS5 till Red posted this http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/18640#post_20408137

I saw a 6 degree drop under load myself.


----------



## Piddeman

Under Prime95 my temp on the VRM goes up to 70c (4500mhz on the FX-8350) about 20min stress test. (Stable) No Core failure.

Under gaming Battlefield 4 the temp is max 59c on the vrm. Am I safe on the temp? Around 1 hour gaming.

The Cpu is 45-55c under the stress test Prime95


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Under Prime95 my temp on the VRM goes up to 70c (4500mhz on the FX-8350) about 20min stress test. (Stable) No Core failure.
> 
> Under gaming Battlefield 4 the temp is max 59c on the vrm. Am I safe on the temp? Around 1 hour gaming.
> 
> The Cpu is 45-55c under the stress test Prime95


You are good. I run my FX8350 at 5GHz at times with same temps (on custom water loop). Prime95 is not a realistic stress test IMO. The 8350 really shines at 4.8GHz if you can reach it with same/similar temps.


----------



## Piddeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> You are good. I run my FX8350 at 5GHz at times with same temps (on custom water loop). Prime95 is not a realistic stress test IMO. The 8350 really shines at 4.8GHz if you can reach it with same/similar temps.


Nice! Thanks the input!

I will try to reach 4.8ghz and se if the temp will allow it.

One more Q: My Psu got 11.952V on the 12+ rail. Is that ok? It is the max peak. And sometime it goes down to 11.8V.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Under Prime95 my temp on the VRM goes up to 70c (4500mhz on the FX-8350) about 20min stress test. (Stable) No Core failure.
> 
> Under gaming Battlefield 4 the temp is max 59c on the vrm. Am I safe on the temp? Around 1 hour gaming.
> 
> The Cpu is 45-55c under the stress test Prime95


VRM's at 70c is approaching what most consider safe upper limit but on that mobo you'll do better if you add a fan blowing directly onto the VRM HS.
From what I've come across (for the CHV-Z anyway) is most quality VRM components (the actual chip) can handle 115c but this was not confirmed with a link, so it should only be used as a reference.
On my CHV-Z with air cooled VRM's they ran 51c under load with Prime95 Blend and now with a VRM/NB WB they rarely exceed 40c.
Add a fan you'll be glad you did.

Gaming at 59c for VRM's is normal for ACing.

To each their own but 20 min of P95 is nothing lol.
I'm sure your temps will increase maybe as much as 5c during a 8 to 12 hour run due to heat soak. Something to bear in mind if you're looking for something that approaches stable.
IMHO if it can't pass 24 hrs of P95 and 20 runs of IBT AVX set to maximum it isn't stable.
I'm one of those types









For the question about CPU temps on a FX please read this and the following couple of posts
http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/29200#post_21593316

The low voltage for PSU is also normal for most monitoring utilities, if you have doubts use a meter. It's the only way to know for sure.
My PSU also read low like yours on HWInfo64 and every other utility I've tried.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Nice! Thanks the input!
> 
> I will try to reach 4.8ghz and se if the temp will allow it.
> 
> One more Q: My Psu got 11.952V on the 12+ rail. Is that ok? It is the max peak. And sometime it goes down to 11.8V.


That is with limits. You should be good.


----------



## Nightwolf88

I would like to share this with you guys.
Its a spreadsheet i made in my quest to reach the most efficient overclock.









Key things
- It gives (starters) an idea of what voltage is needed for which speed
- It proves the importance of LLC and the right setting.








- Starting with an under volt gives optimal results.
- Undervolting is great for the FX!

AMDfx8150.xlsx 20k .xlsx file


It's an AMD FX 8150 on a Sabertooth 990FX rev. 1.

Question: Should I replace my FX8150 @ 5.1ghz with the "new" FX 8350 or wont I see any noticeable benefits?


----------



## Gregory14

Got a question concerning a RAM upgrade kinda. I got the Gskill Trident 16GB 1600Mhz, and plan to overclock to 1866, i know i'm going to have to up the volts and loosen some timings, hopefully my mobo will tell me what exactly the numbers are, anyway, is it necessary to increase the NB frequency past 2200Mhz?


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> Got a question concerning a RAM upgrade kinda. I got the Gskill Trident 16GB 1600Mhz, and plan to overclock to 1866, i know i'm going to have to up the volts and loosen some timings, hopefully my mobo will tell me what exactly the numbers are, anyway, is it necessary to increase the NB frequency past 2200Mhz?


Necessary? Not AFAIK. It only needs to be as high or higher as the RAM frequency for everything to work properly. However, it might give you a small boost in some applications so you can do it if you wanna try. Mine went to 2400 at stock volts without anything going unstable. CPU at 4.9GHz, RAM at 2133MHz and all is well.


----------



## RockZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> I would like to share this with you guys.
> Its a spreadsheet i made in my quest to reach the most efficient overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Key things
> - It gives (starters) an idea of what voltage is needed for which speed
> - It proves the importance of LLC and the right setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Starting with an under volt gives optimal results.
> - Undervolting is great for the FX!
> 
> AMDfx8150.xlsx 20k .xlsx file
> 
> 
> It's an AMD FX 8150 on a Sabertooth 990FX rev. 1.
> 
> Question: Should I replace my FX8150 @ 5.1ghz with the "new" FX 8350 or wont I see any noticeable benefits?


The FX 8350 is very nice Upgrade for your MB, I think is worth! and don't break you bank account., maybe you could achieve a better OC with similar temps


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> I would like to share this with you guys.
> Its a spreadsheet i made in my quest to reach the most efficient overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Key things
> - It gives (starters) an idea of what voltage is needed for which speed
> - It proves the importance of LLC and the right setting.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Starting with an under volt gives optimal results.
> - Undervolting is great for the FX!
> 
> AMDfx8150.xlsx 20k .xlsx file
> 
> 
> It's an AMD FX 8150 on a Sabertooth 990FX rev. 1.
> 
> Question: Should I replace my FX8150 @ 5.1ghz with the "new" FX 8350 or wont I see any noticeable benefits?


It is on sale right now from newegg for $159


----------



## frithy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> well fans on the vrm will help a lot


So, I took the side case off and did this so far


But I hate having an open case... The side panel looks like this:


I figure if I get a window cut out with fan mount for the fan (and some mesh for filtering, I can get the best of both, but no idea how to go about doing so... anyone here every do any case mods and where do you typically bring this type of project to?


----------



## frithy

Oh, and yes, that is christmas reindeer duct tape holding the fan on... it's the old 200mm fan that was top mounted, have the H90 in there now, so this fan was just sittin around.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frithy*
> 
> So, I took the side case off and did this so far
> 
> 
> But I hate having an open case... The side panel looks like this:
> 
> 
> I figure if I get a window cut out with fan mount for the fan (and some mesh for filtering, I can get the best of both, but no idea how to go about doing so... anyone here every do any case mods and where do you typically bring this type of project to?


What some people have done is take a jigsaw and cut a hole and mounted it that way.. as for the back fan it helps a bit but it looks like crap unless you do a proper mod. Now adding a fan to the vrm heatsink helps a great deal.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frithy*
> 
> So, I took the side case off and did this so far
> 
> 
> But I hate having an open case... The side panel looks like this:
> 
> 
> I figure if I get a window cut out with fan mount for the fan (and some mesh for filtering, I can get the best of both, but no idea how to go about doing so... anyone here every do any case mods and where do you typically bring this type of project to?


Check my sig and pics of the back side panel I cut a window and used the OE 8350 fan thats mounted to metal grille mesh.


----------



## Nisrock7863

A bimetal hole saw attachment for a power drill does a very clean job and only costs about $20 at Lowe's for a 3", which is the perfect size for an 80mm fan. Just make sure you clamp it down well and tape the area over so that you don't scratch up your paint. There's several very helpful guides to using a hole saw for adding fans to a case on YouTube.


----------



## Nisrock7863

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frithy*
> 
> So, I took the side case off and did this so far
> 
> 
> But I hate having an open case... The side panel looks like this:
> 
> 
> I figure if I get a window cut out with fan mount for the fan (and some mesh for filtering, I can get the best of both, but no idea how to go about doing so... anyone here every do any case mods and where do you typically bring this type of project to?


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7wGlWZ24QsE is a very helpful video about how to use a hole saw to cleanly add a fan to your PC case. I followed it and put an 80mm fan in the rear panel of my case. Worked great.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nisrock7863*
> 
> http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=7wGlWZ24QsE is a very helpful video about how to use a hole saw to cleanly add a fan to your PC case. I followed it and put an 80mm fan in the rear panel of my case. Worked great.


Great info. Thanks. I REP you for that!









One point though: Not many cases will have the depth for a fan to be installed on the back side of the motherboard.

I may try this on my Switch 810. Id like a filter on it though.. wonder if one of those magnetic screens will do the trick there? hmm...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Great info. Thanks. I REP you for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One point though: Not many cases will have the depth for a fan to be installed on the back side of the motherboard.
> 
> I may try this on my Switch 810. Id like a filter on it though.. wonder if one of those magnetic screens will do the trick there? hmm...


you can put it on the back side not inside the case itself...

As for the screens.. if done right you should be able to use case screws to install the screen on top of the fan


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Id like a filter on it though.. wonder if one of those magnetic screens will do the trick there? hmm...


If you're referring to these http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8823/ffi-29/DEMCiflex_120mm_Magnetic_Fan_Dust_Filter_-_Black_-_Steel_Aluminum_Plastic_Chassis.html?tl=g47c223s1024
I will vouch for them. While they do restrict a small amount of air flow the amount of dust they collect is worth the trade off in my case.

I run a complete custom set on a Xigmatek Elysium (rig sig) and love the time they add between cleanings.


----------



## Gregory14

need some help with bios settings. I updated the bios of my M5A99FX Pro REV 2.0 to bios 2501, and now it downclocks to 1.4Ghz sometimes and undervolts itself. i set it to 4.8Ghz, should i turn off all power saving stuff? I'm stuck here I was fine until I updated.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> need some help with bios settings. I updated the bios of my M5A99FX Pro REV 2.0 to bios 2501, and now it downclocks to 1.4Ghz sometimes and undervolts itself. i set it to 4.8Ghz, should i turn off all power saving stuff? I'm stuck here I was fine until I updated.


Sometimes more than most an bios update creates another issue if you have never had any before = reverse it. Theses updates mostly are for newer cpu's and known issues after a release of the other update. Get it..I don't either..but stay with what'cha got..


----------



## Gregory14

thanks for the reply. I re-installed win 8 and put all drivers and updated bios, then updated windows completed and no more VDroop and 1.4Mhz. 4.7-4.9 now. Dunno what happened, i think it was a windows thing.

all good now. false alarm.


----------



## Nisrock7863

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Great info. Thanks. I REP you for that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One point though: Not many cases will have the depth for a fan to be installed on the back side of the motherboard.
> 
> I may try this on my Switch 810. Id like a filter on it though.. wonder if one of those magnetic screens will do the trick there? hmm...


I don't have much space behind my motherboard tray in my HAF 912, either, but I managed to squeeze a 15mm thick 80mm fan in there. Something very thin like that should fit as long as you have some cable management room back there and a motherboard cutout. All you have to do is line it up off center so air moves over the socket and you avoid the fan dead zone in the middle.

I also run mine off the second CPU fan header on my motherboard so it works hard when my machine really needs it to. Switching it to that header reduced socket temps under load while running case fans at much lower speeds. Worked out great.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005C31GIA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1400481877&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40 is the fan I use. It doesn't generate tremendous air flow, but it moves air over the socket effectively and it's fairly quiet even at full tilt.

You could go with a 120 if you're willing to mount it outside the case. My decision was ultimately made by the price of the hole saw attachments: 3" was $20, 4.5" was $45.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Core temps and socket temps..

After about 3+ hours of Prime 95 my core temp has been sitting pretty steady at 50C-53C. According to the guide max is 62C so I would think this is going very well.

My socket temp has been 66-71C (mostly at 68C) which is uncomfortably close to 70. In fact for about 20 minutes it was at 71C until I opened my office door because I realized it was a bit warm in the room (these 8350's generate quite a bit of heat...) Is this normal?

Typically these have always run more or less the same distance from their max (at least for me). Both running at around 8 degrees or so below max. Why is my core temp running so wonderfully but my socket temp on the edge?

Heres what I have:
[email protected]
CPU Voltage 1.40 (manually set in bios but it looks like it goes up a bit when under full load)
16GB Gskill 1600 system ram (4x4)
Sabertooth 990FX R2.0

Here's a screenshot while still running at full load, 3 hours or so


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Core temps and socket temps..
> 
> After about 3+ hours of Prime 95 my core temp has been sitting pretty steady at 50C-53C. According to the guide max is 62C so I would think this is going very well.
> 
> My socket temp has been 66-71C (mostly at 68C) which is uncomfortably close to 70. In fact for about 20 minutes it was at 71C until I opened my office door because I realized it was a bit warm in the room (these 8350's generate quite a bit of heat...) Is this normal?
> 
> Typically these have always run more or less the same distance from their max (at least for me). Both running at around 8 degrees or so below max. Why is my core temp running so wonderfully but my socket temp on the edge?
> 
> Heres what I have:
> [email protected]
> CPU Voltage 1.40 (manually set in bios but it looks like it goes up a bit when under full load)
> 16GB Gskill 1600 system ram (4x4)
> Sabertooth 990FX R2.0
> 
> Here's a screenshot while still running at full load, 3 hours or so


normal..

now a lot of us use a fan on the VRMS and some put a fan on the back side of the socket to keep it cooler


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> normal..
> 
> now a lot of us use a fan on the VRMS and some put a fan on the back side of the socket to keep it cooler


Really...so it's normal for the socket to be closer to max than the core? I always thought they sort of ran in tandem, more or less the same percentage away from max.

I'll look around to see how vrm/back of mobo fans are set up.

Also, based on these temps it looks like i have more room to OC right? Everything seems pretty stable at 4.6 and my temps look pretty good (except for the socket which I'll see about a fan)

Thanks for the reply

P.S. Is your 5+GHz stable? like can you run it 24/7 like that? Pretty impressive (I almost thought you must keep your rig in the frige), what is your voltage set to?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> Really...so it's normal for the socket to be closer to max than the core? I always thought they sort of ran in tandem, more or less the same percentage away from max.
> 
> I'll look around to see how vrm/back of mobo fans are set up.
> 
> Also, based on these temps it looks like i have more room to OC right? Everything seems pretty stable at 4.6 and my temps look pretty good (except for the socket which I'll see about a fan)
> 
> Thanks for the reply


yeah if you get the socket cooled down then you have a lot of room to go.

As for the socket, that is the mainboard temp around the CPU the package/core is the heat inside of the chip under the IHS, so you can have a temperature difference if your cooler is doing well


----------



## TheLandstander

FX-8320 (3.5ghz)
Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0
CM Hyper 212 EVO
8gb of G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866mhz CL9 @ 1.5v

I like to overclock conservatively. I only go to what air cooling and stock voltages can reach. I always figure that helps with the lifespan of the chip.

I've largely followed the guide as written without going above what the voltage as read at stock speed (entered as 'manual voltage'). About 1.33v. I did make the LLC tweaks... not that I have any understanding what they do or if that is over-volting somewhere or not. I have the RAM at 1866mhz @ 1.5v (without any FSB overclock(?)).

So anyway, I get BSOD @ 4400mhz when just starting a burn test with Prime95, unstable after a couple hours of P95 @ 4300mhz (core #6 stops) and apparently rock solid @ 4200mhz.

The 'package temperature' is on average mid to low 50's. It occasionally spikes near 60 degrees, and has peaked at 62. The spikes only last a couple minutes and then it settles back down to the mid 50's again.

That's the first question: What's with the spikes? Is it normal and safe? I would have thought 100% CPU usage would be a constant temp, not variable.

Question 2: For some reason, my 'CPU temp' which I understand to be the Socket Temperature runs 20 degrees hotter, not 10 like most people say it should. That means a peak at 82 degrees!

Is THAT, safe, normal, a problem with my mobo, or some setting I have wrong? It seems kinda far off, but my case stays at 32-33 degrees the whole time. Is there a way to bring it down?

Question 3: I'd like to lower the multiplier and raise the FSB once I have a target speed (which looks to be 4200mhz). In the past AMD chips (all the way back to my first 486) have had better performance and ran cooler with FSB overclocks as opposed to multiplier overclocks. Is that true for Bulldozer/Piledriver chips?

There seems to be some BIOS changes since guide was written. For example the BIOS I have seems to only allow adjustment to the 100's place on CPU/NB and HT. Numbers like: FSB 280, DRAM 1866 and CPU/NB/HT 2475mhz can't be reached.

Question 4: What's proper for CPU/NB/HT then? And why does it look like FSB changes no longer effect these numbers? Has Asus completely decoupled them to run asynchronous? I wouldn't have thought I could run the RAM at 1866 without a FSB overclock.

Question 5: Why is there be a performance IMPROVEMENT by setting the HT to the CPU/NB speed when the HT has a default of 2600mhz. I would think lower HT would mean worse performance.

I've never had so much confusion trying to o/c with past builds. These BIOS are pretty complicated and I'm a bit out of my comfort zone.
Apologies for the length of the post.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> FX-8320 (3.5ghz)
> Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0
> CM Hyper 212 EVO
> 8gb of G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866mhz CL9 @ 1.5v
> 
> I like to overclock conservatively. I only go to what air cooling and stock voltages can reach. I always figure that helps with the lifespan of the chip.
> 
> I've largely followed the guide as written without going above what the voltage as read at stock speed (entered as 'manual voltage'). About 1.33v. I did make the LLC tweaks... not that I have any understanding what they do or if that is over-volting somewhere or not. I have the RAM at 1866mhz @ 1.5v (without any FSB overclock(?)).
> 
> So anyway, I get BSOD @ 4400mhz when just starting a burn test with Prime95, unstable after a couple hours of P95 @ 4300mhz (core #6 stops) and apparently rock solid @ 4200mhz.
> 
> The 'package temperature' is on average mid to low 50's. It occasionally spikes near 60 degrees, and has peaked at 62. The spikes only last a couple minutes and then it settles back down to the mid 50's again.
> 
> That's the first question: What's with the spikes? Is it normal and safe? I would have thought 100% CPU usage would be a constant temp, not variable.
> 
> Question 2: For some reason, my 'CPU temp' which I understand to be the Socket Temperature runs 20 degrees hotter, not 10 like most people say it should. That means a peak at 82 degrees!
> 
> Is THAT, safe, normal, a problem with my mobo, or some setting I have wrong? It seems kinda far off, but my case stays at 32-33 degrees the whole time. Is there a way to bring it down?
> 
> Question 3: I'd like to lower the multiplier and raise the FSB once I have a target speed (which looks to be 4200mhz). In the past AMD chips (all the way back to my first 486) have had better performance and ran cooler with FSB overclocks as opposed to multiplier overclocks. Is that true for Bulldozer/Piledriver chips?
> 
> There seems to be some BIOS changes since guide was written. For example the BIOS I have seems to only allow adjustment to the 100's place on CPU/NB and HT. Numbers like: FSB 280, DRAM 1866 and CPU/NB/HT 2475mhz can't be reached.
> 
> Question 4: What's proper for CPU/NB/HT then? And why does it look like FSB changes no longer effect these numbers? Has Asus completely decoupled them to run asynchronous? I wouldn't have thought I could run the RAM at 1866 without a FSB overclock.
> 
> Question 5: Why is there be a performance IMPROVEMENT by setting the HT to the CPU/NB speed when the HT has a default of 2600mhz. I would think lower HT would mean worse performance.
> 
> I've never had so much confusion trying to o/c with past builds. These BIOS are pretty complicated and I'm a bit out of my comfort zone.
> Apologies for the length of the post.


1.) Yes normal, but not great, means you need more cooling to go higher etc etc, What the spikes are is the chip heating up faster than the heatsink can handle, you notice the drop when the heatsink finally dissipates the heat, this can also be caused by bad TIM application or not so great TIM

2.) the socket temp is the temp on the main board, you most likely need better airflow in your case, with these low of clocks that is most likely the main issues, Other suggestions is put a fan on the VRMs of the board.

3.) I am not sure which board you have so this will be a bit vague, however make sure you have it set to manual, What board and BIOS version?

4.) really CPUNB 2200 to 2400 is fine, this is the memory controller on the chip itself, HT 2400-2600 is about normal as well, You won't see much improvement unless you have your ram with really tight timings or high frequency. the decoupling is not an ASUS thing it is a FX chip thing,

5.) As for this, it really only depends on how you have your system set up, If by putting them the same then you can add less stress to the board, also depends on your RAM and clock settings.. its a hard question to answer, however I am going to for this

You may have the HT under volted. or something else under volted to where it is not 100% stable but stable enough to work.

Put your rig in your sig and tell us what board and BIOS that you are on.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> FX-8320 (3.5ghz)
> Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0
> CM Hyper 212 EVO
> 8gb of G.Skill Ripjaws X 1866mhz CL9 @ 1.5v
> 
> I like to overclock conservatively. I only go to what air cooling and stock voltages can reach. I always figure that helps with the lifespan of the chip.
> 
> I've largely followed the guide as written without going above what the voltage as read at stock speed (entered as 'manual voltage'). About 1.33v. I did make the LLC tweaks... not that I have any understanding what they do or if that is over-volting somewhere or not. I have the RAM at 1866mhz @ 1.5v (without any FSB overclock(?)).
> 
> So anyway, I get BSOD @ 4400mhz when just starting a burn test with Prime95, unstable after a couple hours of P95 @ 4300mhz (core #6 stops) and apparently rock solid @ 4200mhz.
> 
> The 'package temperature' is on average mid to low 50's. It occasionally spikes near 60 degrees, and has peaked at 62. The spikes only last a couple minutes and then it settles back down to the mid 50's again.
> 
> That's the first question: What's with the spikes? Is it normal and safe? I would have thought 100% CPU usage would be a constant temp, not variable.
> 
> Question 2: For some reason, my 'CPU temp' which I understand to be the Socket Temperature runs 20 degrees hotter, not 10 like most people say it should. That means a peak at 82 degrees!
> 
> Is THAT, safe, normal, a problem with my mobo, or some setting I have wrong? It seems kinda far off, but my case stays at 32-33 degrees the whole time. Is there a way to bring it down?
> 
> Question 3: I'd like to lower the multiplier and raise the FSB once I have a target speed (which looks to be 4200mhz). In the past AMD chips (all the way back to my first 486) have had better performance and ran cooler with FSB overclocks as opposed to multiplier overclocks. Is that true for Bulldozer/Piledriver chips?
> 
> There seems to be some BIOS changes since guide was written. For example the BIOS I have seems to only allow adjustment to the 100's place on CPU/NB and HT. Numbers like: FSB 280, DRAM 1866 and CPU/NB/HT 2475mhz can't be reached.
> 
> Question 4: What's proper for CPU/NB/HT then? And why does it look like FSB changes no longer effect these numbers? Has Asus completely decoupled them to run asynchronous? I wouldn't have thought I could run the RAM at 1866 without a FSB overclock.
> 
> Question 5: Why is there be a performance IMPROVEMENT by setting the HT to the CPU/NB speed when the HT has a default of 2600mhz. I would think lower HT would mean worse performance.
> 
> I've never had so much confusion trying to o/c with past builds. These BIOS are pretty complicated and I'm a bit out of my comfort zone.
> Apologies for the length of the post.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.) Yes normal, but not great, means you need more cooling to go higher etc etc, What the spikes are is the chip heating up faster than the heatsink can handle, you notice the drop when the heatsink finally dissipates the heat, this can also be caused by bad TIM application or not so great TIM
> 
> 2.) the socket temp is the temp on the main board, you most likely need better airflow in your case, with these low of clocks that is most likely the main issues, Other suggestions is put a fan on the VRMs of the board.
> 
> 3.) I am not sure which board you have so this will be a bit vague, however make sure you have it set to manual, What board and BIOS version?
> 
> 4.) really CPUNB 2200 to 2400 is fine, this is the memory controller on the chip itself, HT 2400-2600 is about normal as well, You won't see much improvement unless you have your ram with really tight timings or high frequency. the decoupling is not an ASUS thing it is a FX chip thing,
> 
> 5.) As for this, it really only depends on how you have your system set up, If by putting them the same then you can add less stress to the board, also depends on your RAM and clock settings.. its a hard question to answer, however I am going to for this
> 
> You may have the HT under volted. or something else under volted to where it is not 100% stable but stable enough to work.
> 
> Put your rig in your sig and tell us what board and BIOS that you are on.
Click to expand...

mostly this, you can not decvouple the ram from fsb though. or any of the other settings you mentioned


----------



## Piddeman

I restore the stock clock on my FX-8350, but without the turbo, so 4ghz does it run now. (Cool and Quiet enable)

I felt on the vrm regulators that is placed back of the motherboard, voltregulators was hot like hell...

Someone said that I could drill a hole in my case.

My case is a new H440 so I dont want to drill any holes in it yet









So I decided to buy some of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/261404304094?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648 to apply on the Volt regulators back of the motherboard.

It will fit I hope









Some cooling is better than none









Sry for my bad grammar.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> mostly this, you can not decvouple the ram from fsb though. or any of the other settings you mentioned


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 1.) Yes normal, but not great, means you need more cooling to go higher etc etc, What the spikes are is the chip heating up faster than the heatsink can handle, you notice the drop when the heatsink finally dissipates the heat, this can also be caused by bad TIM application or not so great TIM
> 
> 2.) the socket temp is the temp on the main board, you most likely need better airflow in your case, with these low of clocks that is most likely the main issues, Other suggestions is put a fan on the VRMs of the board.
> 
> 3.) I am not sure which board you have so this will be a bit vague, however make sure you have it set to manual, What board and BIOS version?
> 
> 4.) really CPUNB 2200 to 2400 is fine, this is the memory controller on the chip itself, HT 2400-2600 is about normal as well, You won't see much improvement unless you have your ram with really tight timings or high frequency. the decoupling is not an ASUS thing it is a FX chip thing,
> 
> 5.) As for this, it really only depends on how you have your system set up, If by putting them the same then you can add less stress to the board, also depends on your RAM and clock settings.. its a hard question to answer, however I am going to for this
> 
> You may have the HT under volted. or something else under volted to where it is not 100% stable but stable enough to work.
> 
> Put your rig in your sig and tell us what board and BIOS that you are on.


THANKS for replying. I'm pretty worried that I need to return the mobo with socket temperatures like this on a low overclock.

I put most of the system details in the post, but I just updated my sig. The BIOS is 2501.
Btw, I've removed the overclock for now, but enabled Turbo until this is sorted out...

1) To be fair, my Arctic Silver 5 is pretty old and I was surprised that it was more the consistency of creamy peanut butter this time. I sort of hoped it would be okay. Apparently not. I'll order a new tube and reseat they HSF (it's that or my Arctic Silver 3 which seems surprisingly to still be good). My biggest problem was pre-treating the CM heastsink. Those heat pipes are kind of murder to smooth TIM on without the layer being too thick.

2) I dunno about cooling the VRM, that looks kind of tricky. There's not much space. The tower heat sink is in front, and two 80mm fans are immediately behind them.
My case runs at a steady 32-33 degrees. No real fluctuation. I have a fan controller on 5 Sunon 80mm fans in this case. Cranking them all to full blast doesn't seem to make much difference.

3) Board and BIOS listed in sig now.

4) The ram is noted below. I haven't tried o/c'ing it yet. Dunno what I'll do with the CPU/NB and HT yet... or how to be sure they're GOOD numbers.
I asked about 'decoupled' from the FSB because the BIOS lets me just select the speed from a drop down list. I haven't really played much with the FSB yet, but it looks like 'choose a number', not a multiplier would equate to uncoupled. I'm probably as wrong about this as everything else right nwo.

6) Btw, I was thinking. The guide mentions enabling adding Turbo after overclocking. If you are already O/C as far as your CPU goes, isn't there a chance that doing this would cause the chip to disable some cores and then speed up a core that can't handle higher speeds? Also, isn't it feeding more power to the accelerated core? It sounds like this needs to be stability tested after being enabled, but I'm not sure how. Thoughts?

Edit: Oops. Didn't actually add my rig to my sig. It's there now.


----------



## Mega Man

1 get rid of the evo


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1 get rid of the evo


Who? If you mean me, are you referring to the mobo or the HSF? And why?


----------



## Mega Man

evo is junk, and really unless you want to keep it near stock. is useless


----------



## diggiddi

Hey guys how is this looking? I know I'm maxing out the temps but take a look at it anyhoo. just ran Prime FFT small for about 15 mins 4.6 @1.35v Using the guide to set up everything don't know why its reporting 1.262v in HWinfo64

Fan behind socket and blowing on VRM's as well as top intake, see pics for further Illustrations


----------



## Pipson10

Well for some reason im finding it hard to get it stable at 4.9/5ghz! I managed to get it stable at 4.8ghz with 1.42V - 10mins with AIDA64 stability test no problems! Temps avg was 44C - here is a link to my settings: http://s129.photobucket.com/user/PipsonFM/library/Crosshair%20OC - Any advice on changes i would appreciate it - i couldnt get 4.9 stable with 1.5v which is shocking :S considering i got 2.8 at 1.42v

I have a H100 push n pull on a corsair 540 air


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Well for some reason im finding it hard to get it stable at 4.9/5ghz! I managed to get it stable at 4.8ghz with 1.42V - 10mins with AIDA64 stability test no problems! Temps avg was 44C - here is a link to my settings: http://s129.photobucket.com/user/PipsonFM/library/Crosshair%20OC - Any advice on changes i would appreciate it - i couldnt get 4.9 stable with 1.5v which is shocking :S considering i got 2.8 at 1.42v
> 
> I have a H100 push n pull on a corsair 540 air


4.8GHz stable with only 1.42v Vcore? Hard to believe. 10 min of AIDA64 stability test is really not stressing the system much.
Better try a dose of IBT AVX and see how it holds up. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
If you can pass 20 runs on the "Maximum" setting than you'll be on your way to being somewhat stable.
Follow up with a run of Prime95 "Blend" for 24 hrs than your stable.

Most have a tough time completely stabilizing 4.8 so don't be discouraged. Back up a bit and stress test with either IBT or Prime95 and you'll do much better as the clock rises.
Looking over your settings I see too many values on auto. The more you manually enter the better off you'll be.


----------



## Pipson10

Ive read many times for AMD that AIDA64 is the way to go and that those 2 programs you mentioned are more for intel than AMD


----------



## Pipson10

I havent had a single crash and ive played games - so i trust AIDA64, could someone either refer me to a stable 5ghz or have a look at my settings and tell me how i can improve it? what needs changing? understand after that its pretty much increase voltage and test if fail increase and test.

my specs are h100 push and pull - case is corsair 540 air and crosshair v formula-z psu xfxpro750W


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Ive read many times for AMD that AIDA64 is the way to go and that those 2 programs you mentioned are more for intel than AMD


if you want not stable pcs yea, aida64 is great.

if you want fully stable prime and ibtAVX ( not normal ibt which is junk for any recent cpus anyway ) are the way to go. ( with 90% memory usage )


----------



## Pipson10

Again not really getting the response i was hoping for, i understand that guys. but can someone look at my screenshot and tell me what to change? I could be adding too much or not adding enough volts and not changing settings here and there that i shouldn't, ive only had the motherboard for 2 days and im really hoping to get it to 5ghz


----------



## Mega Man

your bios can take screenshots directly.

insert a usb formatted in FAZT32 and press f12 while in bios

up your vcore and stresstest with prime or ibtavx

go back to auto on cpu VDDA, that only helps on giga boards

NB volts are too high and if you dont have active cooling probably hurting you 1.2-1.25 is really all you need
same with cpu/nb ~1.2-1.25 generally speaking this may not be the case i have not seen all your settings yep for 1600 ram. way way way too much

*
ONLY IF YOU HAVE ACTIVE COOLING ON YOUR VRMS
*
change CPU POWER PHASE CONTROL to EXTREME
POWER DUTY CONTROL to Current
cpu/nb llc to high


----------



## Pipson10

Yeh i tried that and my USB will show up on the drivers list but when i try to take a screenshot it just wont work period - i even formatted it too - does it have to be maybe FAT formatted ?


----------



## Pipson10

by active cooling to do you mean a a fan blowing air to the heatsink close to the IO shield?


----------



## sdlvx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Again not really getting the response i was hoping for, i understand that guys. but can someone look at my screenshot and tell me what to change? I could be adding too much or not adding enough volts and not changing settings here and there that i shouldn't, ive only had the motherboard for 2 days and im really hoping to get it to 5ghz


On 32nm PD-SOI, there is no such thing as too much voltage, only not enough cooling.


----------



## Pipson10

forget my USB full comment - formatted now and it works

So ive made some changes: 1.45V at 4.8ghz
auto on cpu VDDA
200 bus frequency
100 PCIE frequency
CPU config all disabled
change CPU POWER PHASE CONTROL to EXTREME

You asked me to do this: POWER DUTY CONTROL to Current (current was not an option but extreme) so nothing changed there
cpu/nb llc to high -> done
NB volts to auto
cpu/nb 1.25

screenshots:

http://s129.photobucket.com/user/PipsonFM/library/newOC


----------



## Pipson10

Since my hope is trying to get to 5ghz stable - i changed Voltage to 1.5 at 4.8ghz and IBTx passed - i went back and uped the multiplier to 4.9ghz and it failed - pc froze, settings are exctly the same as on the screenshot but NB volts to 1.25 - any help guys?


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Since my hope is trying to get to 5ghz stable - i changed Voltage to 1.5 at 4.8ghz and IBTx passed - i went back and uped the multiplier to 4.9ghz and it failed - pc froze, settings are exctly the same as on the screenshot but NB volts to 1.25 - any help guys?


Bump the Vcore up..as you raise multi u have 2 raise Vcore.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> by active cooling to do you mean a a fan blowing air to the heatsink close to the IO shield?


yes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> forget my USB full comment - formatted now and it works
> 
> So ive made some changes: 1.45V at 4.8ghz
> auto on cpu VDDA
> 200 bus frequency
> 100 PCIE frequency
> CPU config all disabled
> change CPU POWER PHASE CONTROL to EXTREME
> 
> You asked me to do this: POWER DUTY CONTROL to Current (current was not an option but extreme) so nothing changed there
> cpu/nb llc to high -> done
> NB volts to auto
> cpu/nb 1.25
> 
> screenshots:
> 
> http://s129.photobucket.com/user/PipsonFM/library/newOC


there are 2 options. tprobe ( temp ) and current ( the other option )
nb likes .1v added to it 1.2-1.25ish
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Since my hope is trying to get to 5ghz stable - i changed Voltage to 1.5 at 4.8ghz and IBTx passed - i went back and uped the multiplier to 4.9ghz and it failed - pc froze, settings are exctly the same as on the screenshot but NB volts to 1.25 - any help guys?
> 
> 
> 
> Bump the Vcore up..as you raise multi u have 2 raise Vcore.
Click to expand...

4.7+ has huge voltage walls, keep adding vcore

ill be honest. a h100 does not have a high chance of being 4.9/5.0 stable


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes
> there are 2 options. tprobe ( temp ) and current ( the other option )
> nb likes .1v added to it 1.2-1.25ish
> 4.7+ has huge voltage walls, keep adding vcore
> 
> ill be honest. a h100 does not have a high chance of being 4.9/5.0 stable


Very true MM, had to get more surface area = 360 Rad + bigger tubing, more flow to move more heat as well.


----------



## Pipson10

Ill keep my 4.8 that i managed and later tonite or reset it to default and test if its stable with ibm ? For quick test would standard be enough to be considered stable? Ill start with default voltage - so if you guys can post starting bios settings so i can do that and then ill just keep changing to voltage and multiplier also is there a difference using the multiplier and frquency in terms of getting it stable easier?


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> evo is junk, and really unless you want to keep it near stock. is useless


That's the first I've ever heard anyone say that. Most seem to consider it fairly competitive and a good step up from AMD's stock cooler. That's why I bought it.
Considering anything more powerful for cooling starts to provide diminishing returns.

Anyone agree with MM?

Anyone have further answers for earlier post? http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/2530#post_22316491

My most pressing question is if I should be concerned that I got a bad motherboard. If that temperature is excessively hot for such a low o/c in a cool case I need to deal with it.

Is it in any way normal or should I be yanking it out and sending it back?
I'm currently at stock speeds encoding some video. CPU is 44, mobo is 59. That's not a 10 degree difference.
It sort of makes the HSF of secondary importance because I'll never get high clock speeds.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> by active cooling to do you mean a a fan blowing air to the heatsink close to the IO shield?
> 
> 
> 
> yes
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> forget my USB full comment - formatted now and it works
> 
> So ive made some changes: 1.45V at 4.8ghz
> auto on cpu VDDA
> 200 bus frequency
> 100 PCIE frequency
> CPU config all disabled
> change CPU POWER PHASE CONTROL to EXTREME
> 
> You asked me to do this: POWER DUTY CONTROL to Current (current was not an option but extreme) so nothing changed there
> cpu/nb llc to high -> done
> NB volts to auto
> cpu/nb 1.25
> 
> screenshots:
> 
> http://s129.photobucket.com/user/PipsonFM/library/newOC
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> there are 2 options. tprobe ( temp ) and current ( the other option )
> nb likes .1v added to it 1.2-1.25ish
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Since my hope is trying to get to 5ghz stable - i changed Voltage to 1.5 at 4.8ghz and IBTx passed - i went back and uped the multiplier to 4.9ghz and it failed - pc froze, settings are exctly the same as on the screenshot but NB volts to 1.25 - any help guys?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Bump the Vcore up..as you raise multi u have 2 raise Vcore.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 4.7+ has huge voltage walls, keep adding vcore
> 
> ill be honest. a h100 does not have a high chance of being 4.9/5.0 stable
Click to expand...

I am doing pretty good with my H100i. 5.0 stable. Idles at 40c.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> That's the first I've ever heard anyone say that. Most seem to consider it fairly competitive and a good step up from AMD's stock cooler. That's why I bought it.
> Considering anything more powerful for cooling starts to provide diminishing returns.
> 
> Anyone agree with MM?
> 
> Anyone have further answers for earlier post? http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/2530#post_22316491
> 
> My most pressing question is if I should be concerned that I got a bad motherboard. If that temperature is excessively hot for such a low o/c in a cool case I need to deal with it.
> 
> Is it in any way normal or should I be yanking it out and sending it back?
> I'm currently at stock speeds encoding some video. CPU is 44, mobo is 59. That's not a 10 degree difference.
> It sort of makes the HSF of secondary importance because I'll never get high clock speeds.


I agree with Megaman 100%

I've seen this time and time again about how good the Hyper 212 is and again in this case.
The 212 is a budget cooler designed more for a quad and maybe a hexacore.
Count the number of heat tubes and compare that to a Noctura D14 which is an upper end air cooler.

IMHO the mobo is probably fine and the temp issue lays with a lack of air flow inside the case (80mm case fans?) and nothing going to the VRM's? Add this with an under sized budget cooling solution to a 83xx and this is what happens.

I'm not slamming the 212, they do work great on almost anything less than an OC'd octacore. I've setup five different builds (non 83xx) using the 212 and really do like them. Take it from me the 212 in this case is not the answer.
Even the D14 will challenge the best to run a 83xx @ 5GHz (Prime95 stable)

I think the heat issues you're seeing are due to a lack of cooling solution with probable limited case air flow as well.
What is the room ambient where you're at?


----------



## TheLandstander

I'm sitting in an a/c
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I agree with Megaman 100%
> 
> I've seen this time and time again about how good the Hyper 212 is and again in this case.
> The 212 is a budget cooler designed more for a quad and maybe a hexacore.
> Count the number of heat tubes and compare that to a Noctura D14 which is an upper end air cooler.
> 
> IMHO the mobo is probably fine and the temp issue lays with a lack of air flow inside the case (80mm case fans?) and nothing going to the VRM's? Add this with an under sized budget cooling solution to a 83xx and this is what happens.
> 
> I'm not slamming the 212, they do work great on almost anything less than an OC'd octacore. I've setup five different builds (non 83xx) using the 212 and really do like them. Take it from me the 212 in this case is not the answer.
> Even the D14 will challenge the best to run a 83xx @ 5GHz (Prime95 stable)
> 
> I think the heat issues you're seeing are due to a lack of cooling solution with probable limited case air flow as well.
> What is the room ambient where you're at?


Thanks. Yeah, my original build plan included the FX-6350 until I found the 8320 for $130 on Amazon for a 1 day sale. While I'd like to upgrade to something like the D14, $60-80 is out of budget for something that's really kind of frivolous.

As long as EVO 212 is better than the stock cooler from AMD I'll stick with that and be satisfied with what performance bump that can handle. It is better, right?

Hopefully the new arctic silver will bring the CPU down a few degrees and the socket with it. All 5 fans at full blast make hardly a blip in the socket temp versus slowed to quiet speeds. Mind you the VRM heatsink is sort of in a deadspot behind the fans. After reseating the CPU I'll see about sticking a fan right on the VRM.

Should I try to cool both the vertical and horizontal VRM sinks if I can?

So 15-20 degrees difference between CPU and Socket does happen and is not an indication of a bad board? That's a relief. I was perched between send the board back or mailing in my rebate.

Btw, I've been testing in an A/C controlled environment. 75-78 degrees F.


----------



## Pipson10

Okay so ive decided to start fresh: here is what i did with a link to screenshots:
Ai overclock - manual
Cpu ratio - 20
Turbo - disable
Cpu bis fre - 200
Memmory fre - 1600
Cpu:nb freq - 2200
Ht link - 2600
Cpu spread freq - disable

Dram timing control - no changes

Cpu voltage 1.368
Cpu/nb - 1.25
Dram voltage - 1.6
Nb voltage - 1.25

Digi power control
Cpu llc - ultra high
Cpu cc - 130
Cpu power phase control - extreme
Cpu power duty control - extreme/current
Cpu-nb llc - high
Cpu/nb cc - 130
Dram cc - 130

Cpu config
All disabled

- What i would like to know now is this the perfect default overclocking settings that all i have to do now is change cpu voltage and multiplier? or will i need to change something else further up i go? when should i add my ram timings?

Link to screenshots:

http://s129.photobucket.com/user/PipsonFM/library/default%20OC


----------



## Pipson10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I am doing pretty good with my H100i. 5.0 stable. Idles at 40c.


mind posting screenshots of your over clock settings?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> evo is junk, and really unless you want to keep it near stock. is useless
> 
> 
> 
> That's the first I've ever heard anyone say that. Most seem to consider it fairly competitive and a good step up from AMD's stock cooler. That's why I bought it.
> Considering anything more powerful for cooling starts to provide diminishing returns.
> 
> Anyone agree with MM?
> 
> Anyone have further answers for earlier post? http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/2530#post_22316491
> 
> My most pressing question is if I should be concerned that I got a bad motherboard. If that temperature is excessively hot for such a low o/c in a cool case I need to deal with it.
> 
> Is it in any way normal or should I be yanking it out and sending it back?
> I'm currently at stock speeds encoding some video. CPU is 44, mobo is 59. That's not a 10 degree difference.
> It sort of makes the HSF of secondary importance because I'll never get high clock speeds.
Click to expand...

i can keep going further back if you want. the farther i go. the more i can find, from more and more people


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Red1776*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Alastair*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ManofGod1000*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mus1mus*
> 
> Ohh GOD!!
> 
> To talk about silicon lottery while being on a 212 is ridiculous. TBH with you.
> 
> I'd consider your point on silicon lottery if you used top notch cooling, high end mobo, and your chip is a dud!
> 
> My lazy chip won't even boot to windows at 4.9 with anything less 1.5 volts!.. Am I a silicon lottery loser?
> 
> Nope!
> 
> 
> 
> Not GOD, not at all.
> 
> I am quite familiar with overclocking these chips, although I am not all knowing. My chips have hit a wall at 4.4GHz and 4.5GHz. I have pumped up to 1.5V into both and ended up not with overheating but immediate failure in IBT AXV with anything beyond the stated numbers I have given.
> 
> Disrespect all you want, I know that my chips have hit a wall. Also, the Asrock 990FX Extreme 4 and Extreme 9 boards are not low end motherboards at all. Although, the Extreme 9 is better but, my FX 8350 does not run with any sort of stability beyond 4.5Ghz which is the normal average anyways for these chips.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> OK I can see you are quite new here. So I won't unload an entire magazine on you. Right so first thing is first. The Vishera processors are EXTREMELY tough. They can handle TONS of voltage. We have seen chips getting water benched at 1.7v and beyond that even for more exotic cooling. HOWEVER we are YET to see a chip die from over-volting or even any signs of degradation. The accepted rule around here is simple. As long as you can keep it cool you CAN clock it. The only TWO chips we have EVER seen die have been killed by non other than ASrock boards. Two Extreme 9's with blown VRM 's that took the processor with them. The main flaws with the boards are poor machining on the heatsinks that do not make contact with the VRM' s. If that isn't poor quality I dunno what is.
> 
> The second thing is your 212 argument. I have been here for a year. I have had an 8320 and an 8350. I have owned a 212 EVO. That used to play host to an Athlon quad core and a Phenom 2 quad core. That cooler reached its thermal limits on QUAD core at 4.25GHZ. Now you can't come in here and claim that your chip is poor when you are trying to cool 8 cores on a cooler that struggles with 4 overclocked cores. It just won't happen here. We have some of the best FX experts on this club. KyakCk and Mega Man to name a few. Guys have been playing with the chips since a day one release. I have also seen enough take the same judgements as them. Now here are the FACTS after more than a year of experience with the chips and also of being a member of this club. The thing is you HAVE NOT hit the wall on your chips. The 83XX wall sits at around the 4.7-4.8GHz mark. At that point you need lots of voltage for small gains. You ARE thermally limited.
> 
> Rule of thumb for cooling. The average STABLE OC's and the highest achieved STABLE OC's I have seen over my year or so here.
> 
> STOCK: 4.2-4.3 Ghz average 4.5GHz max. (with the noise of a jet)
> 
> SINGLE TOWER AIR COOLER (aka 212): 4.2-4.3GHz average. 4.5GHz max. (Notice something? It's the same as stock. Except quieter. 212 has a 180w TDP limit. At 4.3-4.4 GHZ I promise you are near it.)
> 
> THIN 120mm CLC (H50): 4.5GHz average 4.6-4.7 max.
> 
> DUAL TOWER AIR COOLER/ THICK 120MM CLC(NH-D14): 4.6-4.7GHZ average. 4.8Ghz max
> 
> 240mm CLC: 4.8GHz-4.9Ghz average. 5.0GHZ max.
> 
> Custom Water loop: 5.0GHZ AND ABOVE
> 
> Now don't try and dispute the facts. We have seen it. Over and over and over again. Your 212 IS holding your chip back that is a FACT. Invest in some better cooling and be amazed. Your 212 is doing NOTHING for your VRM 's as well. THE CAKE IS A LIE. If you want to cool your VRM' s take your stock heatsinks fan and paste that to your VRM sinks. The close up direct flow is a ton more beneficial to the VRM 's. But as far as I am aware the Exreme 4 comes with a VRM fan Pre installed so you really shouldn't have need for another.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> well...this one should be made a sticky
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlailScHLAMP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *******edsnail*
> 
> I just ordered the evo 212 for my 8320.Are you guys saying its not enough for this chip,or that is bad?btw not planing on any overclock just the stock speed
> 
> 
> 
> all you are doing is paying for a quieter cooler. if that is worth the cost sure...
> 
> but like i said a few posts ago.. the are alternative that cost just slightly more that do a MUCH better job.
> 
> the mounting system on the hyper 212s just blows donkeys.. hell even Zalman's coolers mount better then 212's
> 
> with the hyper 212 i say "caveat emptor" you get what you pay for, if you get the OC itch you will regret the waste.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *******edsnail*
> 
> I just ordered the evo 212 for my 8320.Are you guys saying its not enough for this chip,or that is bad?btw not planing on any overclock just the stock speed
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on your overclocking goal.
> Dozens of people have used the 212 for the 8 cores, but none have gotten past 4.5 ghz ( honestly) on prime etc.
> 
> Above the voltage wall, a 10 C drop in temperature has yielded @ 200 mhz in stability for benchmarking programs from my experiences. The problem is, the evo peters out below that wall ( around 1.48 volts @ 4.5ghz more or less).
> 
> As a comparison of cooling abilities I have 960T X6 that I have had under various coolers and it would hit its thermal limits @ 4.0 ghz on the N620 , 4.2 ghz under an h-60 , 4.4+ on a thermaltake 2.0 water extreme 4.6 ghz on the 480 mm custom loop. The N620 is considerably better than the Evo and I wouldn't even consider the 620 for overclocking an 8core Vishera.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlailScHLAMP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ManofGod1000*
> 
> That is cool and all but, spending $100 on a cooler does not guarantee a good cooler. Nor does spending $35 on a cooler guarantee a crap one. In my experience, the cooler is far and wide better than the stock cooler ever would be. The fact is that my experience speaks volumes better than your opinion in this case. (Wish I did not hit the wall but, I did not hit the silicon lottery.)
> 
> 
> 
> actually with coolers you do generally get what you pay for... like i said COOLER and PSU are super vital cheaping out on them makes no sense..
> 
> " the hyper 212 is a great cooler" said by no one. at least no one that knows what they are doing.
> 
> Do i need to go find my stock cooler to prove how little benefit other then noise the hyper 212 has over it?
> 
> oh and heads up... this isn't just my opinion it is also my experience with over a year of regular posting IN THIS THREAD. (90% of my posts are in this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> Golden chip or not.. hyper 212 is not going to get ANYONE much farther then you have gotten. that cooler can just flat out NOT deal with the heat.
> 
> would have been better off spending 20$ more on the single tower noctua, believe me it is worth the extra 20$ (might look the same, but better cooling pipes, better construction , and LIGHTYEARS age in mounting)
> 
> and FYI you havn't hit the point to be able to tell if you placed well in the lottery or not. your cooling and maybe your board are holding you back.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlailScHLAMP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ManofGod1000*
> 
> Well, I do not understand why everyone is slamming the 212 Evo, it is an excellent heatsink. (Asrock FX 990 Extreme 4, FX8320, 4.4GHz, 1.475v, load test with IBT AVX does not get above 44C Core, 65C socket temp.) *My FX 8320 hits a wall at 4.4GHz* but I did add a second fan on the 212 for push pull configuration.
> 
> 
> 
> congrats you are at your limit.
> 
> the people saying these coolers are good are using them on 85w TDP intel chips.
> 
> the cooling capacity of the 212 is marginally higher then the stock cooler with the bonus of it not being a turbine.
> 
> I've said it before.. someone spends 160$ on the processor, 100$ on the ram, 100+ on a ssd, ~100$ on a motherboard, 25$ on a cooler and 40$ on a PSU...
> 
> really.. why do people cheap out on two of the most important parts of your system? there is no logic in that choice..
> 
> you will end up killing something or spending more because everyone else is clocking higher. out the windows goes the little bit saved.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moonless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlailScHLAMP*
> 
> let me guess cooling with Hyper 212?
> 
> le sigh.....
> 
> 
> 
> Hahaha! Hyper 212 EVO is like it's own on going joke in this thread.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlailScHLAMP*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Thready*
> 
> Motherboard: Asus M5A97 LE R2.0
> 
> BIOS: American Megatrends Inc., 0906, 9/17/2012
> 
> Specs: (had to bring overclock back down to stock sadface) Multiplier: 20, Bus Speed: 4 GHz, Northbridge clock: 2200 MHz, Hypertransport speed: 2200 MHz
> 
> Memory speed: 1600 MHz, Timings: 10-12-11-30
> 
> Cooling: Cooler Master Hyper 212 non-Evo because Evo is a money grab and is no different.
> 
> 
> 
> oh no.... not again... *shudder*
> 
> ok.. i'm out .. you guys field this one..
Click to expand...




Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Okay so ive decided to start fresh: here is what i did with a link to screenshots:
> Ai overclock - manual
> Cpu ratio - 20
> Turbo - disable
> Cpu bis fre - 200
> Memmory fre - 1600
> Cpu:nb freq - 2200
> Ht link - 2600
> Cpu spread freq - disable
> 
> Dram timing control - no changes
> 
> Cpu voltage 1.368
> Cpu/nb - 1.25
> Dram voltage - 1.6
> Nb voltage - 1.25
> 
> Digi power control
> Cpu llc - ultra high
> Cpu cc - 130
> Cpu power phase control - extreme
> Cpu power duty control - extreme/current
> Cpu-nb llc - high
> Cpu/nb cc - 130
> Dram cc - 130
> 
> Cpu config
> All disabled
> 
> - What i would like to know now is this the perfect default overclocking settings that all i have to do now is change cpu voltage and multiplier? or will i need to change something else further up i go? when should i add my ram timings?
> 
> Link to screenshots:
> 
> http://s129.photobucket.com/user/PipsonFM/library/default%20OC


looks ok, really depends on what you want to oc, if you are just ocing by multi. yes if fsb... dont until you get a feel for your chip that is what i would recommend, fsb is far more involved


----------



## TheLandstander

Thanks for the rundown Mega Man. Good info. Although my temperature concern is largely the socket not the chip right now.
I'm using an M5A99X EVO R2.0 which only has sinks but no fan on the VRM.

Honestly, I'm not looking for extreme o/c and I'll be happy to clock this to a quiet 4.2 - 4.3ghz, but since that is taking my socket to 80 degrees I can't see that being entirely the 212's fault with the CPU 20 degrees or more cooler.

I'll replace the thermal compound when the new tube arrives and see if I can even the spikes out.
While the case is open I'll figure out a way to get something to blow across the VRMs.

You are preaching to the f-in' choir about the 212's mounting brackets. That was a harrowing experience.
Unless someone can suggest anything in the same price range as the 212, I'll stick with it. Then again, I'm not sure what Amazon's return policy would be on it.


----------



## Mega Man

only other options you have is to cool vrms and rear of board


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> only other options you have is to cool vrms and rear of board


Would a second fan on the 212 EVO provide much benefit (for the CPU, not the socket obviously).


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> only other options you have is to cool vrms and rear of board
> 
> 
> 
> Would a second fan on the 212 EVO provide much benefit (for the CPU, not the socket obviously).
Click to expand...

imo no but people swear by it.


----------



## TheLandstander

Cheers. I've got a plan now. Thanks for all the help, I've never needed so much help with an overclock before.


----------



## Nightwolf88

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Okay so ive decided to start fresh: here is what i did with a link to screenshots:
> Ai overclock - manual
> Cpu ratio - 20
> Turbo - disable
> Cpu bis fre - 200
> Memmory fre - 1600
> *Cpu:nb freq - 2200*
> Ht link - 2600
> Cpu spread freq - disable
> 
> Dram timing control - no changes
> 
> Cpu voltage 1.368
> *Cpu/nb - 1.25*
> Dram voltage - 1.6
> Nb voltage - 1.25
> ...


Whats your speed, Mhz, of your CPU/NB? Try finding the lowest voltage for the speed you want. I found that going from 2400mhz @ 1.35v to 2200 @ 1.21v will benefit temps!
In your case try finding the lowest stable setting, in best case this wil give you something around 5°C, and some extra room for more Vcore!. (Sidenote: at some speeds higher CPU/NB volts and lower Vcore gave me stability, so try finding the sweet spot







)

*EDIT*:see you already posted, try if you can lower CPU/NB voltage to 1.2 or even 1.187v and still be stable at 2200 Mhz. If the IMC can, you will drop temps


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> I havent had a single crash and ive played games - so i trust AIDA64, could someone either refer me to a stable 5ghz or have a look at my settings and tell me how i can improve it? what needs changing? understand after that its pretty much increase voltage and test if fail increase and test.
> 
> my specs are h100 push and pull - case is corsair 540 air and crosshair v formula-z psu xfxpro750W


Test with IBT AVX and your system will sure crumble.. AIDA sucks for stressing CPU.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> That's the first I've ever heard anyone say that. Most seem to consider it fairly competitive and a good step up from AMD's stock cooler. That's why I bought it.
> *Considering anything more powerful for cooling starts to provide diminishing returns*.
> 
> *Anyone agree with MM*?


cooling provides diminishing returns? hahaha not really why would it

your cooler sucks man it just cant keep these fx's cool

LISTEN TO MegaMan


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> cooling provides diminishing returns? hahaha not really why would it, your cooler sucks man it just cant keep these fx's cool anything is better
> 
> LISTEN TO MegaMan


^MM got its right....

You spend $30 on a cooler that only nets you 200Mhz OC over stock cooler at best..

Then you get the bug and want more, then add a good fan or fans another 15 to 30 bucks if not a little more, Then you realize that may only net you a 50-100mhz return so you buy another cooler.. by then you go either super big air $70-80 or CLC

Unless you are smart and buy a CLC that is a 240 rad or greater.. or Custom

SO... yeah.. diminishing returns is with the EVO unless you want to stat at 100-200Mhz above what the stock cooler can do..


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> ^MM got its right....
> 
> You spend $30 on a cooler that only nets you 200Mhz OC over stock cooler at best..
> 
> Then you get the bug and want more, then add a good fan or fans another 15 to 30 bucks if not a little more, Then you realize that may only net you a 50-100mhz return so you buy another cooler.. by then you go either super big air $70-80 or CLC
> 
> Unless you are smart and buy a CLC that is a 240 rad or greater.. or Custom
> 
> SO... yeah.. diminishing returns is with the EVO unless you want to stat at 100-200Mhz above what the stock cooler can do..


I get that, but the point is I'm already looking at 500-700mhz if I can stabilize the socket temp. The CPU is cool enough.

A 20% overclock (3.5ghz to 4.2ghz) is a win in my book, even if the chip can do more. It makes the investment cheaper than if I bought the next more expensive CPU, but with quieter cooling.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> mind posting screenshots of your over clock settings?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Cheers. I've got a plan now. Thanks for all the help, I've never needed so much help with an overclock before.


np anytime feel free to hit me up if you need any more ideas ~!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I am doing pretty good with my H100i. 5.0 stable. _*Idles at 40c*_.
> 
> 
> 
> mind posting screenshots of your over clock settings?
Click to expand...

first red flag
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Pipson10*
> 
> mind posting screenshots of your over clock settings?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
Click to expand...

nothing personal. if you like it great, but i dont think you are near stable.

i have yet to see a h100 be able to take 1.65v ( maybe you are not using llc.... but even then... ) let alone with a 1.4v cpu/nb

if you think i am wrong. then run either prime or ibt/avx, ( see the op in the 83xx club for a dl link, if you are using ibt and only getting ~ 40k gflops it is not avx, and it is not stressing your cpu. )

tell me how long your h100 lasts before temps reach 70 core.

but if you idle at 40c... my bet is right after the cores are fully loaded you are already past temps


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> np anytime feel free to hit me up if you need any more ideas ~!
> first red flag
> nothing personal. if you like it great, but i dont think you are near stable.
> 
> i have yet to see a h100 be able to take 1.65v ( maybe you are not using llc.... but even then... ) let alone with a 1.4v cpu/nb
> 
> if you think i am wrong. then run either prime or ibt/avx, ( see the op in the 83xx club for a dl link, if you are using ibt and only getting ~ 40k gflops it is not avx, and it is not stressing your cpu. )
> 
> tell me how long your h100 lasts before temps reach 70 core.
> 
> but if you idle at 40c... my bet is right after the cores are fully loaded you are already past temps


Hey now that is socket temp too.. not even core temp... uh oh baby.. is he gonne be the first one to fry?


























































































































and... boom... Heck I have a hard time pulling that heat away and my cooling is WAY betta!


----------



## PiOfPie

The Evo may not be the best cooler in the world, but it's $30, and for the price that you pay, it's pretty good. My biggest complaint is that the bracket prevents me from installing a RAM stick, but if you're going for a really big, honking fan, they would all have the same problem.

I have my 8120 stable at 4.2 under a Prime95 blend. Core temps max out around 50-52 C under load; Idle is under 20. Vcore is 1.332.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiOfPie*
> 
> The Evo may not be the best cooler in the world, but it's $30, and for the price that you pay, it's pretty good. My biggest complaint is that the bracket prevents me from installing a RAM stick, but if you're going for a really big, honking fan, they would all have the same problem.
> 
> I have my 8120 stable at 4.2 under a Prime95 blend. Core temps max out around 50-52 C under load; Idle is under 20. Vcore is 1.332.


With the EVO you can always put the fan on the opposite side to pull the air if you need the last RAM slot. You can also just slide it up a few inches if you prefer.

Anyone have a guide or recommendation on cooling the VRM? The section on the first page covering it could use fleshing out. Sticking it to the back of the case seems inelegant(?)


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *PiOfPie*
> 
> The Evo may not be the best cooler in the world, but it's $30, and for the price that you pay, it's pretty good. My biggest complaint is that the bracket prevents me from installing a RAM stick, but if you're going for a really big, honking fan, they would all have the same problem.
> 
> I have my 8120 stable at 4.2 under a Prime95 blend. Core temps max out around 50-52 C under load; Idle is under 20. Vcore is 1.332.
> 
> 
> 
> With the EVO you can always put the fan on the opposite side to pull the air if you need the last RAM slot. You can also just slide it up a few inches if you prefer.
> 
> Anyone have a guide or recommendation on cooling the VRM? The section on the first page covering it could use fleshing out. Sticking it to the back of the case seems inelegant(?)
Click to expand...

I used a small chipset fan that was stuck to the socket with double sided tape. It was hidden with the door on and dropped temps about 10c


----------



## TheLandstander

I've been wanting to do the same with the VRM/North Bridge heatsinks, but I cannot figure out how to mount them.
I keep thinking it's a bad idea to use any sort of double sided tape to stick plastic against heatsinks that get that hot.

That said 2 or 3 of those could be lined up right on this sinks and move a lot of air with no noise. I figure there is only enough clearance for 1 fan on the left side of the northbridge only.

Any suggestions on adhesive and if it's a good/bad idea? Speaking of good/bad idea, I keep thinking Asus joining the VRM and NB sinks via a heat pipe is a bad idea. Like a good way to over heat your northbridge.

Maybe something like frag tape. Do they still call it that?


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> np anytime feel free to hit me up if you need any more ideas ~!
> first red flag
> nothing personal. if you like it great, but i dont think you are near stable.
> 
> i have yet to see a h100 be able to take 1.65v ( maybe you are not using llc.... but even then... ) let alone with a 1.4v cpu/nb
> 
> if you think i am wrong. then run either prime or ibt/avx, ( see the op in the 83xx club for a dl link, if you are using ibt and only getting ~ 40k gflops it is not avx, and it is not stressing your cpu. )
> 
> tell me how long your h100 lasts before temps reach 70 core.
> 
> but if you idle at 40c... my bet is right after the cores are fully loaded you are already past temps


Think what you want but i ran prime95 for 19hrs with no errors. My temps never got above 62c. Want me to run again and take screens? Also, it isnt actually 1.65. With LLC on auto there is a good amount vdroop. It is actually just over 1.5v usually. Let me know what you need to erase your doubt lol


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> np anytime feel free to hit me up if you need any more ideas ~!
> first red flag
> nothing personal. if you like it great, but i dont think you are near stable.
> 
> i have yet to see a h100 be able to take 1.65v ( maybe you are not using llc.... but even then... ) let alone with a 1.4v cpu/nb
> 
> if you think i am wrong. then run either prime or ibt/avx, ( see the op in the 83xx club for a dl link, if you are using ibt and only getting ~ 40k gflops it is not avx, and it is not stressing your cpu. )
> 
> tell me how long your h100 lasts before temps reach 70 core.
> 
> but if you idle at 40c... my bet is right after the cores are fully loaded you are already past temps


prime95 75% ram as per the guide. 31 minutes only because i am going out. If you want me to run longer I can lol. It was a little warmer out today so temps are a bit higher then usual.

In every day use, my temps get nowhere near the above. The ambient is also higher today compared to when I ran my 19+ hr test. Vcore fluctuates anywhere from 1.46v to 1.596v. Pushing temps pretty close to the brink. Like previously mentioned, only gets that hot during prime or OCCT. My core has never hit 70c but it has been very close with LLC enabled.

Edit: No freezes, BSOD or issues at all running games or anything else so far. If i am doing something wrong please let me know. Im not here to be right or wrong im here to gain knowledge. =)


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I've been wanting to do the same with the VRM/North Bridge heatsinks, but I cannot figure out how to mount them.
> I keep thinking it's a bad idea to use any sort of double sided tape to stick plastic against heatsinks that get that hot.
> 
> That said 2 or 3 of those could be lined up right on this sinks and move a lot of air with no noise. I figure there is only enough clearance for 1 fan on the left side of the northbridge only.
> 
> Any suggestions on adhesive and if it's a good/bad idea? Speaking of good/bad idea, I keep thinking Asus joining the VRM and NB sinks via a heat pipe is a bad idea. Like a good way to over heat your northbridge.
> 
> Maybe something like frag tape. Do they still call it that?


I've seen some members mod/run the fan setup from a ram cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231435
it can simply be bent to hang from most any edge available within reason of course.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I've seen some members mod/run the fan setup from a ram cooler http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231435
> it can simply be bent to hang from most any edge available within reason of course.


Found the cooler by itself here: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835236002
I'm not sure how you'd mount it and it looks like there's a lot of metal in those clips if that thing slips.
Anyone using these able to talk it up?


----------



## Prokart2000

can someone help me to oc im a begginner and im not to sure what to do, i get the basics, i have a 8320 and a m5a97 r2.0


----------



## Johan45

There's a lot of useful info on page 1 of this thread have you read that yet. It gives you the basic outline of what you need to do.


----------



## Prokart2000

yes i have


----------



## Johan45

Ok then I would start by raising the multi and testing just mind your temps. See how high you can get without adding voltage


----------



## Piddeman

Mind the temps when you run the stress tests after the OC. Dont overdo 70c on the Socket temp, and 62c on the Core temp.

Check the VRM temp to.

Good Luck!

Sry for my grammar!


----------



## jaybirdmikey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Mind the temps when you run the stress tests after the OC. Dont overdo 70c on the Socket temp, and 62c on the Core temp.
> 
> Check the VRM temp to.
> 
> Good Luck!
> 
> Sry for my grammar!


Sooo this thread it stated 62c highest for core and on the fx 83xx / vishera club states 70c max for core?? Am I


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaybirdmikey*
> 
> Sooo this thread it stated 62c highest for core and on the fx 83xx / vishera club states 70c max for core?? Am I


Core is 62*C, socket 70*C. Going a few degrees over is not a problem.


----------



## jaybirdmikey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Core is 62*C, socket 70*C. Going a few degrees over is not a problem.


Haha


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaybirdmikey*
> 
> Haha


download AMD OverDrive it gives thermal margins

core used to be 62C but now with the thermal margin its a tad higher


----------



## jaybirdmikey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> download AMD OverDrive it gives thermal margins
> 
> core used to be 62C but now with the thermal margin its a tad higher


Sure thing...would be best to use as temp monitor huh? Or figure difference between HWinfo64 and just use one.


----------



## TheLandstander

I read somewhere that a tech at Asus told someone these things could hit a socket temp of 90 degrees C without a problem. THAT'S







hot.
I suppose it's one of those, you can hit it, but I wouldn't for very long.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> download AMD OverDrive it gives thermal margins
> 
> core used to be 62C but now with the thermal margin its a tad higher


They are always pushing the limit so you can OC further and be competitive with Intel chips







. Truth be told. those are just "suggested limits". I have run my FX at 70*C core and 85*C socket for 12hr. Prime runs with no throttling or discernible damage to the chip and board (in before my PC explodes). I wouldn't run it like that 24/7, but it gives you the idea that the 62/70*C limits are not set in stone.


----------



## jaybirdmikey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I read somewhere that a tech at Asus told someone these things could hit a socket temp of 90 degrees C without a problem. THAT'S
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hot.
> I suppose it's one of those, you can hit it, but I wouldn't for very long.


Sounds like the tech was high







, and wanted you to join in on the fun of burning one.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> They are always pushing the limit so you can OC further and be competitive with Intel chips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Truth be told. those are just "suggested limits". I have run my FX at 70*C core and 85*C socket for 12hr. Prime runs with no throttling or discernible damage to the chip and board (in before my PC explodes). I wouldn't run it like that 24/7, but it gives you the idea that the 62/70*C limits are not set in stone.


aye just suggested and even then i think we could push it further if ya got the cooling lol

these piledrivers really do take a good beating


----------



## jaybirdmikey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> aye just suggested and even then i think we could push it further if ya got the cooling lol
> 
> these piledrivers really do take a good beating


Don't really know, Until=it explodes-pops-sizzles, then quits on ya...Maybe someone has done it, but not owning up to it, or something. i've heard so many temp ranges, but where is voltages at such OC's.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> these piledrivers really do take a good beating


That they do Gertie








Do you still have that double booting Giga board Gertie? What Rev. is it and does it have HPC?
Maybe that wasn't you just checked your specs??


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> That they do Gertie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you still have that double booting Giga board Gertie? What Rev. is it and does it have HPC?
> Maybe that wasn't you just checked your specs??


Not me man lol i got sabertooth


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> That they do Gertie
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you still have that double booting Giga board Gertie? What Rev. is it and does it have HPC?
> Maybe that wasn't you just checked your specs??
> 
> 
> 
> Not me man lol i got sabertooth
Click to expand...

Ya thanks, I noticed that after my fingers got away from me. I'll track it down. Definately someone in the vishera thread, that's where I saw it.


----------



## TheLandstander

And now the stupidest thing said on the internet today...

I was scoping out the lay of the land to try to figure out how to mount some fans to cool the VRM and Northbridge sink combo.
And then I took a good look here (click to enlarge):


So, um, how long has that strip of protective plastic been there to keep the logo all shiny?
That can NOT have been good for keeping my northbridge cool.

Was I supposed to know that was there?
Are there any more of these damn things that I needed to remove that I obviously missed?
The next most likely site is the southbridge, but there doesn't seem to be a sticker on that.

Still at stock speeds, but I'll report back on how much that lowers my socket temp.

Edit: Okay, that only made the difference of about 1 maybe 2 degrees, but still. What the heck, Asus.


----------



## untore

This is c'n'q making fun of cpuz
http://valid.x86.fr/jy6bia


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *untore*
> 
> This is c'n'q making fun of cpuz
> http://valid.x86.fr/jy6bia


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> download AMD OverDrive it gives thermal margins
> 
> core used to be 62C but now with the thermal margin its a tad higher


Yes, now the thermal margin in Overdrive, corresponds to "core temp" (or "package temp") of 70C reported by other software.


----------



## Undervolter

sorry double post.


----------



## Piddeman

Surly a troll on Asus..90c is very hot and would cause system overheat shut down.

Sry for my grammar.


----------



## TheLandstander

A couple more questions about cooling.

Both placing a fan on the VRM and behind the socket are suggest. Where exactly IS the thermal sensor for the socket temp and how would these two things be related?

I figured I can probably zip tie an 80mm directly over the VRM. It would lie behind and perpendicular to my case exhaust fans (parallel to the motherboard of course.)

Wouldn't the fan in a pull configuration make more sense? It would draw the heat off theVRM sink directly to the case exhaust. In push wouldn't it fight the exhaust fan?

I may test both ways, but I'm curious if anyone else has noticed the same thing.

Edit: Still running FX-8320 @ stock speeds until I get the basics dialed in (and remount the HSF). +17 on the socket still seems like a big difference.

Before adding fans: CPU 41, Socket 58

+80mm fan over VRM (quiet low RPM jobber stolen from a dead PSU) in push configuration:
CPU: 42, Socket 57

+80mm fan over VRM in pull configuration:
CPU:40, Socket 57 (not sure this means anything or is a fluke)

+80mm fan over VRM in pull config. +40mm fan (stolen from an old 486 cooler) on Northbridge sink:
CPU:40, Socket 56

Well, it's a bit of work for not a lot of benefit. I don't know how much that will scale when I actually start overclocking or if it'll ONLY be 1-2 degrees benefit. I'll probably do better mounting one of my Sunon 80mm fans and attaching it to the mobo's temperature/speed control (can I do that?)

In the mean time, I'm not mounting anything permanently until I make things hot and test again.

Edit 2: The answer to the final fan question is 'no'. The CPU fan controls use PWM, not something a 3-wire 80mm fan can be adapted to. So manual fan control or a new pwm fan.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Yes, now the thermal margin in Overdrive, corresponds to "core temp" (or "package temp") of 70C reported by other software.


Does this make the CPU Temp redundant?


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Does this make the CPU Temp redundant?


Sure if ya's wanna burn it up to crispy fried tater tots...if temp is meaningless, or over expressed then it's a







Yup..but not for moi'!


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> A couple more questions about cooling.
> 
> Both placing a fan on the VRM and behind the socket are suggest. Where exactly IS the thermal sensor for the socket temp and how would these two things be related?
> 
> I figured I can probably zip tie an 80mm directly over the VRM. It would lie behind and perpendicular to my case exhaust fans (parallel to the motherboard of course.)
> 
> Wouldn't the fan in a pull configuration make more sense? It would draw the heat off theVRM sink directly to the case exhaust. In push wouldn't it fight the exhaust fan?
> 
> I may test both ways, but I'm curious if anyone else has noticed the same thing.
> 
> Edit: Still running FX-8320 @ stock speeds until I get the basics dialed in (and remount the HSF). +17 on the socket still seems like a big difference.
> 
> Before adding fans: CPU 41, Socket 58
> 
> +80mm fan over VRM (quiet low RPM jobber stolen from a dead PSU) in push configuration:
> CPU: 42, Socket 57
> 
> +80mm fan over VRM in pull configuration:
> CPU:40, Socket 57 (not sure this means anything or is a fluke)
> 
> +80mm fan over VRM in pull config. +40mm fan (stolen from an old 486 cooler) on Northbridge sink:
> CPU:40, Socket 56
> 
> Well, it's a bit of work for not a lot of benefit. I don't know how much that will scale when I actually start overclocking or if it'll ONLY be 1-2 degrees benefit. I'll probably do better mounting one of my Sunon 80mm fans and attaching it to the mobo's temperature/speed control (can I do that?)
> 
> In the mean time, I'm not mounting anything permanently until I make things hot and test again.
> 
> Edit 2: The answer to the final fan question is 'no'. The CPU fan controls use PWM, not something a 3-wire 80mm fan can be adapted to. So manual fan control or a new pwm fan.


If you can in your case, try to mod a 120mm fan behind the mobo tray. If you center the hub between the socket and rear of the VRMs that will really help your socket temp.









Edit: Just noticed your case doesn't even have a CPU cutout. It's no wonder you're getting toasty in that case. I'd try and save for one of the new mid-tower NZXT or Corsair units!


----------



## jaybirdmikey

Here I am, finally with boots sunk in the mud, can't get out of the stable with 5Ghz, even to gain more OC..get a worker stop, and a dumb IBT result other than....normal, up the vcore, do this and do that, well phooey that dung pile stable @ 4.9

And ....only have increased multi and voltage accordingly...my guess is smoke this chip.. vcore @ 1.55, LLC set to guide prefernces... and bump stop spit quit...where/what are the best low baseline voltages and temps for the power hungry chip...cooling can handle it, RAM is a bust? Really change a RAM setting while already OC'd by 700mhz...i must be missing out. Add some FSB, and screw with timings..okay could, but can use some advice.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaybirdmikey*
> 
> Here I am, finally with boots sunk in the mud, can't get out of the stable with 5Ghz, even to gain more OC..get a worker stop, and a dumb IBT result other than....normal, up the vcore, do this and do that, well phooey that dung pile stable @ 4.9
> 
> And ....only have increased multi and voltage accordingly...my guess is smoke this chip.. vcore @ 1.55, LLC set to guide prefernces... and bump stop spit quit...where/what are the best low baseline voltages and temps for the power hungry chip...cooling can handle it, RAM is a bust? Really change a RAM setting while already OC'd by 700mhz...i must be missing out. Add some FSB, and screw with timings..okay could, but can use some advice.


More V_Core and probably a bump to the CPU_NB voltas as well. 1.55v+ is pretty common for an FX doing 5G. My 8350 was at 1.6v just to get 4.9 so each CPU has it's point where it litterally just sucks up the volts for that next 100MHz. I found that once I got around the 5.0 mark it also needed a bump to the CPU_NB even though I hadn't increased the NB speed.


----------



## jaybirdmikey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> More V_Core and probably a bump to the CPU_NB voltas as well. 1.55v+ is pretty common for an FX doing 5G. My 8350 was at 1.6v just to get 4.9 so each CPU has it's point where it litterally just sucks up the volts for that next 100MHz. I found that once I got around the 5.0 mark it also needed a bump to the CPU_NB even though I hadn't increased the NB speed.


Really??..well, will give it a try..+1 on that, so once your @ this OC there's really no reason to change RAM settings-timings, just up some CPU/NB, could some NB 1.8 volts as well help?


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaybirdmikey*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> More V_Core and probably a bump to the CPU_NB voltas as well. 1.55v+ is pretty common for an FX doing 5G. My 8350 was at 1.6v just to get 4.9 so each CPU has it's point where it litterally just sucks up the volts for that next 100MHz. I found that once I got around the 5.0 mark it also needed a bump to the CPU_NB even though I hadn't increased the NB speed.
> 
> 
> 
> Really??..well, will give it a try..+1 on that, so once your @ this OC there's really no reason to change RAM settings-timings, just up some CPU/NB, could some NB 1.8 volts as well help?
Click to expand...

Not really necessary to change the NB from 1.8v, now the CPU_NB is the one you'll need to increase if you up your NB speed.


----------



## TheLandstander

I'm unclear about the relationship of the LLC settings. I understand it improves stability, but how much do they effect heat?
For small overclocks, is it better to leave them at their default settings or still use the recommended 'up to 5ghz' settings?

The first few posts in the guide recommend the CPU/NB LLC be set to High 50%, whereas the 'up to 5ghz' settings say Auto. Is that right? When should High 50% be used?

Any Digi+ power recommendations for a hot overclock from 3.5ghz to about 4.1ghz would be appreciated.

Btw, retesting at overclock speeds, I can confirm that fan speed to the VRM is less important than the direction. Set it to PULL. The socket temp will be identical, but in push it puts the heat towards the CPU and can actually increase the temperature.

Edit: No no no no no. Okay, burn tested BRIEFLY with the LLCs at stock overclock only to 4ghz and the CPU temperature rose 5 degrees higher before I stopped it. The LLC actually keeps things cooler? I REALLY am confused.

Edit 2: Pretty much giving up on getting a good overclock without dumping money in for a case with a cut out behind the CPU and better HSF.

Started testing lower than stock voltages to see if I can fix the temperature issues.
Already down from 1.33v to 1.25, possibly stable and nearly 10 degrees colder in the socket and CPU @ 4ghz.


----------



## CmdrAlchemy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Can you get it stable lowering your Vcore? I run 5.0GHz at 1.55Vcore. You get a lot of heat with more voltage. Could help uping your RAM voltage. So many variables.... i know..


I really tried, but it wont be stable at prime with lower voltage.

Also has anyone tried memtest86+ with multicore option, damn it really makes it hot.


----------



## TheLandstander

If an overclock is including turbo core, what is the best way to see if the turbo is stable?

Because it is colder and redirects the voltage, I can hit turbo speeds I can't clock locking all cores to the same speed.

I've seen recommended using Prime95, starting it, and then shutting down some of the cores manually. That's slow, and doesn't seem to make turbo engage.
Using Prime95 and selecting one core doesn't work because it seems to bounce the test around to different cores, not just picking one and using it.

Should Cool n Quiet, C1E and APM Master be set while testing turbo? I guess they need to be.
Any suggestions?


----------



## OldBarzo

Hi
I am currently running an FX8350 @ 22.5 (4.515Ghz) multiplier only.
LLC is at Ultra High and Turbo and all power saving options off.
I have been running IBT 2.54 and HWinfo.
Are the temps ok for this.
Screenshots att.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OldBarzo*
> 
> Hi
> I am currently running an FX8350 @ 22.5 (4.515Ghz) multiplier only.
> LLC is at Ultra High and Turbo and all power saving options off.
> I have been running IBT 2.54 and HWinfo.
> Are the temps ok for this.
> Screenshots att.


While the CPU Core temp is fine the CPU Socket temp is shown as 20c higher at 69.9c, ouch. Probably due to a lack of air flow and/or heat soak.

Run this version of IBT AVX http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 but watch those temps closely!!! This version may make a lot more heat. What you're currently running is not the AVX version.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> While the CPU Core temp is fine the CPU Socket temp is shown as 20c higher at 69.9c, ouch. Probably due to a lack of air flow and/or heat soak.
> 
> Run this version of IBT AVX http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 but watch those temps closely!!! This version may make a lot more heat. What you're currently running is not the AVX version.


^ This.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> If an overclock is including turbo core, what is the best way to see if the turbo is stable?
> 
> Because it is colder and redirects the voltage, I can hit turbo speeds I can't clock locking all cores to the same speed.
> 
> I've seen recommended using Prime95, starting it, and then shutting down some of the cores manually. That's slow, and doesn't seem to make turbo engage.
> Using Prime95 and selecting one core doesn't work because it seems to bounce the test around to different cores, not just picking one and using it.
> 
> Should Cool n Quiet, C1E and APM Master be set while testing turbo? I guess they need to be.
> Any suggestions?


Im not sure why you would want to leave turbo enabled? It defeats the purpose of OC'ing. But to answer your question, disable those settings. It is in the guide (which also says to turn off turbo).

Have fun


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Im not sure why you would want to leave turbo enabled? It defeats the purpose of OC'ing. But to answer your question, disable those settings. It is in the guide (which also says to turn off turbo).
> 
> Have fun


Quote:


> FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds
> Warning: Spoiler! (Click to hide)
> Would you like to have great Multithreaded Performance as well as a lot better Single Core Performance?
> Do you also like to save on hydro?
> 
> Well then this might interest you.
> Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
> 
> With Turbo Enabled, increasing the FSB also increases the Turbo Frequency
> With Offset Voltage Mode you can fully utilize C'n'C and APM Mode
> I recommend to keep the offset voltages to Auto with the "+" using Ultra LLC on the CPU and Auto LLC on the CPU/NB.
> If you are going for an extreme difference between stock frequency and Turbo frequency, then you should increase the CPU Offset Voltage to Compensate
> Example: 4.6Ghz with a Turbo of 5.6Ghz you might need an offset of +0.15v
> The higher you raise the FSB, the higher the Auto CPU and CPU/NB voltage will be set.
> 
> As you can see from my pictures, for my system the best FSB speed was 233. This allowed me to run my ram near my spec of 1866Mhz and also allows me to stay within my thermal limits when Turbo engages.
> 
> The actual turbo listed is not what it will go to. The Turbo listed is the highest level of Turbo - on an FX8350 that would be 4.2Ghz, so a Multiplier of 21. The normal turbo that will run all 8 cores is 4.1Ghz so a Multiplier of 20.5, which will let me run 4.776Ghz with a 233FSB.
> Under a heavy load, the CPU will cycle between my set CPU Ratio and the Turbo Speed to run cooler. Or it will just stay at the set CPU Ratio - which is ~4.5Ghz
> 
> So using this method I will have a 17% increase in Single Threaded Performance and a 12.5% increase in Multithreaded Performance.
> With the power saving features I idle at 68W. (Full System)
> At full load 280W which is the same as a Manual 4.5Ghz Overclock.


Because Turbo works when some cores are turned off so you can attain higher single core performance than what all cores can achieve stably together. It's looking like I can turbo about 350-600(?)mhz (full load/half load) above my stable o/c. Since turbo only really works correctly with the CnC and APM on, that's how it appears to need to be tested.

P95 test with 3/4 memory still turbos and rests some cores. I was able to make the default turbo ratio fail under it, so it does look like it tests it. I don't know if there's a better way.
Benchmarking with Cinebench I did achieve 10-15 points higher with turbo, Cool n Quiet, C1E and Amp Master Mode enabled AS the guide says.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Because Turbo works when some cores are turned off so you can attain higher single core performance than what all cores can achieve stably together. It's looking like I can turbo about 350-600(?)mhz (full load/half load) above my stable o/c. Since turbo only really works correctly with the CnC and APM on, that's how it appears to need to be tested.
> 
> P95 test with 3/4 memory still turbos and rests some cores. I was able to make the default turbo ratio fail under it, so it does look like it tests it. I don't know if there's a better way.
> Benchmarking with Cinebench I did achieve 10-15 points higher with turbo, Cool n Quiet, C1E and Amp Master Mode enabled AS the guide says.


For Turbo you need to figure out a way to test each core module whatever. Can't say how you would do it since like you pointed out, Windows will just juggle around your Prime process. Easiest way would be to figure out your absolute max OC with all cores and then lower the CPU frequency while leaving the increased vcore. Kind of inefficient since you will be running with a much higher vcore than what you really need under both full load and in single threaded mode.
Or just cross your fingers and blindly set your Turbo to something reasonable, hoping it stays stable. Like for example testing a max OC of 4.4GHz and set a Turbo of 4.6GHz. That's how I have mine







, 4.2GHz with a 4.4GHz Turbo. Hasn't given me issues yet.


----------



## gargiulo2000

I am sorry,
i've got a fx-6300 with the asus m5a97 evo r2.0 and i'm trying with this guide to overclock it with the coolermaster 212.
I've got nice temps and with the 10 min. test i can go as far as 4.5Ghz and 1.32 vcore.
I can test even an hour with small FTT's and the socket goes up to 66, the CPU to 54.
Any other test on prime a core fails instantly.
The ram i've got is a corsair vangeance 4Gb single module set to 1600Mhz on the bios.

Please help


----------



## jleslie246

Interesting. I didnt realize the cores 'turboed' independently. I was able to get all cores stable at 5.0GHz on mine with turbo off (C&Q, C1E and AMM disabled per the guide). I run at 4.8GHz for my everyday use though.


----------



## TheLandstander

I'm still fine tuning, but I'm open to suggestions, criticism, whatever.

Temperature is an issue that I choose not to deal with. Fans on the VRM show minimal improvement, I can't access the back, and increasing case circulation has zero effect. The CPU tends to run 15-20 degrees colder than the socket, so that's probably doing the best that it can.

My FX-8320 (3.5ghz) CPU at stock voltages (1.33v) can hit 4.2ghz before I need to bump it up. Unfortunately, it's already too hot at that point.
I decided I'd rather just run colder if I can hit 4ghz (stock FX-8350 speed).

That's when I realized how much these chips can be UNDER-volted.
As currently stable:

17 x 236mhz fsb = 4012mhz
DDR3 @ 1888
CPU/NP & HT = 2360mhz & 2596mhz

Digi+ are as shown in the first posts for 5ghz o/c plus CPU/NB LLC Auto as list in FSB overclock section.

CPU offset voltage = -.08125v (BIOS reports 1.248v, HWMonitor shows it can fluctuate with Turbo core to about 1.35v and as low as .8v while idle!?
CPU/NB Offset = -.006250 (BIOS reports 1.2v (which is stock)) I don't see a listing for this in HWMonitor so I don't know what it's really doing.
CPU VDDA = 2.2v (BIOS reads 2.242v)
DRAM Voltage = 1.5v

C 'n' Q, C1E, C6 = Enabled (C6 in theory does almost nothing under Win7 and that's fine by me.)
Apm Master Mode = Auto
HPC = Disabled

With Turbo on the default multiplier of 20x, it will fail Prime95, so I've set it to 19.5x.
Full Load Turbo gives around 4366mhz. Supposedly half load should hit 4602ghz, but if it does, it isn't often.

Without Turbo core under Prime95 the CPU doesn't break 50 degrees and the socket stays mid to upper 60's.
With Turbo and all the power saving refinements it runs about 5 degrees cooler under full load.

I'm still fine tuning the last point or two of fsb and voltage, but the above number are 6 hours prime95 stable (without turbo) and 1 hr stable prime95 AND AIDA64 with turbo.

Like I said, thoughts or suggestions?

*Edit:* I would like to mention that I get a Cinebench score of 643 at 4ghz only, but something like 656 with turbo on. I'm sure this chip can do better, but not without a new case... or a dremel.
*
Edit 2:* A suggestion to anyone who has hit a real wall on their overclock: try Turbo Core. Conservative at first and then bump it. (Make sure the power saving stuff like CnQ, C1E and APM master are on.)

You can test full load turbo (which is slower), using Prime95 w/ 75% of your RAM. Since it turns on and off the higher speed the cores don't need to be stable there long, but a long enough test should show any weakness.

To test half load turbo (the top speed (4.6ghz for me)), use Prime95 w/75% of your RAM, but only set it to use 1 core. Prime95 will pass the load around among your cores and eventually they'll all get tested at full speed. Again, it doesn't stay there long, but it will let you kick the tires. They won't be at that speed long in real world applications either.


----------



## ROKO__

This isnt helpfull for Gigabyte..

I have GA-990FXA UD3 Rev 4.0


----------



## StryckNyne

Title clearly states ASUS motherboards >.>


----------



## ROKO__

i want to ask..

for 4500MHz is it safe this settings.

VCore 1.425V
CPU-NB 1.25V
CPU Multipler 22.5

?

Arctic Cooling Freezer A30


----------



## miklkit

I had an 8350 @ 4.5ghz using the Arctic Cooling A30 and temps were normally in the mid 50C range unless stress testing. Then it would get into the mid 60C range. I used multi only and ran about that Vcore or a little bit more on a Gigabyte UD3 R3. Case air flow is very important.


----------



## ROKO__

hm i forget to post LLC is medium.

For stable work on 4.5GHz 1.4315V is it safe this ? Temperatures on max load are 55 - 60 degrees.
Sometimes pc speaker buzzing when cpu get 60 degrees.

but now in Bulgaria in my room is 27 degrees. Linux compiling = prime95 on both tests temperature is about 55-60 under 100% load but i'm not sure if is safe for my pc ??


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKO__*
> 
> hm i forget to post LLC is medium.
> 
> For stable work on 4.5GHz 1.4315V is it safe this ? Temperatures on max load are 55 - 60 degrees.
> Sometimes pc speaker buzzing when cpu get 60 degrees.
> 
> but now in Bulgaria in my room is 27 degrees. Linux compiling = prime95 on both tests temperature is about 55-60 under 100% load but i'm not sure if is safe for my pc ??


AMD Overdrive now states a max Core temp of 70°C - most people say to keep your socket under 80°C.
You're fine. Even voltage up to 1.6 V is safe for use as long as your cooling is in check!


----------



## ROKO__

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> AMD Overdrive now states a max Core temp of 70°C - most people say to keep your socket under 80°C.
> You're fine. Even voltage up to 1.6 V is safe for use as long as your cooling is in check!


i am linux user so we havent AOD :>
so you say its safe my setting ??


----------



## Synister

The current settings you have are safe yes. As long as your temperatures are in check.


----------



## ROKO__

okay thanks for info. but i back to 4300MHz because in 4500 have small performance impact because of temperatures.. maybe cpu start throtling on 60 degrees ??

4300MHz 1.35V 46 - 52 degrees now


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKO__*
> 
> hm i forget to post LLC is medium.
> 
> For stable work on 4.5GHz 1.4315V is it safe this ? Temperatures on max load are 55 - 60 degrees.
> Sometimes pc speaker buzzing when cpu get 60 degrees.
> 
> but now in Bulgaria in my room is 27 degrees. Linux compiling = prime95 on both tests temperature is about 55-60 under 100% load but i'm not sure if is safe for my pc ??


What made you decide to use 'medium' for the LLC? I find higher settings tend to lower temperature and stability at lower voltages.

Edit: Okay, correct me if I'm wrong, but when overclocking you need more wattage to the CPU. To get there you can either increase the voltage or you can increase the current. (Power = Voltage x Current)

In the case of these motherboards they are designed to carry more amps. As such setting them to 'safe' higher currents (ultra high CPU LLC & 130% current capabilities) provides more power at cooler temperatures to the CPU because less voltage is required.

The lower heat is because higher current reduces resistance (V/I=R) and resistance is what generates heat.

Sound about right?


----------



## ROKO__

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> What made you decide to use 'medium' for the LLC? I find higher settings tend to lower temperature and stability at lower voltages.
> 
> Edit: Okay, correct me if I'm wrong, but when overclocking you need more wattage to the CPU. To get there you can either increase the voltage or you can increase the current. (Power = Voltage x Current)
> 
> In the case of these motherboards they are designed to carry more amps. As such setting them to 'safe' higher currents (ultra high CPU LLC & 130% current capabilities) provides more power at cooler temperatures to the CPU because less voltage is required.
> 
> The lower heat is because higher current reduces resistance (V/I=R) and resistance is what generates heat.
> 
> Sound about right?


I am not sure if understand you.. What about LLC ?
Hm ultra hight LLC burn my cpu in 1.48V.. I care about that...


----------



## TheLandstander

My understanding of LLC is poor, and I leave it to others to explain.
I'm saying that Ultra High LLC might let you set your voltage lower.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> My understanding of LLC is poor, and I leave it to others to explain.
> I'm saying that Ultra High LLC might let you set your voltage lower.


LLC ~load line calibration

back in the day when motherboards where first built in order to keep from shorting out there was an intentional creation of vDroop, vDroop is essentially a drop in voltage current when under load as to not overvolt any components.

With newer technologies the need for it is not really needed however is kept as a safety feature. LLC is a boost in voltage to compensate for the vDroop.

When overclocking it can be a great feature to have however not needed. in most cases it allows you to keep the voltage constant, so if you set 1.5v in bios it will remain that, this is true on ASUS boards. the lower settings will allow a lot or little vDroop as medium keeps it constant. High and ultra high boost the voltage to just above or higher to allow for uses when underload is absolutely needed and not needed as constant,

Extreme is just that, It pushes the voltage up higher for loads and can cause added stress and heat on the VRMs and processor itself. It really is not needed unless you are under more advanced cooling and are really trying to push everything to its absolute limit.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> LLC ~load line calibration
> 
> back in the day when motherboards where first built in order to keep from shorting out there was an intentional creation of vDroop, vDroop is essentially a drop in voltage current when under load as to not overvolt any components.
> 
> With newer technologies the need for it is not really needed however is kept as a safety feature. LLC is a boost in voltage to compensate for the vDroop.
> 
> When overclocking it can be a great feature to have however not needed. in most cases it allows you to keep the voltage constant, so if you set 1.5v in bios it will remain that, this is true on ASUS boards. the lower settings will allow a lot or little vDroop as medium keeps it constant. High and ultra high boost the voltage to just above or higher to allow for uses when underload is absolutely needed and not needed as constant,
> 
> Extreme is just that, It pushes the voltage up higher for loads and can cause added stress and heat on the VRMs and processor itself. It really is not needed unless you are under more advanced cooling and are really trying to push everything to its absolute limit.


Thanks, that's the first explanation for LLC that I've seen. Does Current Capability work in a similar manner?


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> LLC ~load line calibration
> 
> back in the day when motherboards where first built in order to keep from shorting out there was an intentional creation of vDroop, vDroop is essentially a drop in voltage current when under load as to not overvolt any components.
> 
> With newer technologies the need for it is not really needed however is kept as a safety feature. LLC is a boost in voltage to compensate for the vDroop.
> 
> When overclocking it can be a great feature to have however not needed. in most cases it allows you to keep the voltage constant, so if you set 1.5v in bios it will remain that, this is true on ASUS boards. the lower settings will allow a lot or little vDroop as medium keeps it constant. High and ultra high boost the voltage to just above or higher to allow for uses when underload is absolutely needed and not needed as constant,
> 
> Extreme is just that, It pushes the voltage up higher for loads and can cause added stress and heat on the VRMs and processor itself. It really is not needed unless you are under more advanced cooling and are really trying to push everything to its absolute limit.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, that's the first explanation for LLC that I've seen. Does Current Capability work in a similar manner?
Click to expand...

Current capability just allows the circuit to "overdraw" power. If you're not really pushing it you can leave those on auto.


----------



## TheLandstander

I don't know if you'd call what I'm running 'pushing it'. I'm only running 4ghz (with 4.6ghz turbo), but I am undervolting to keep the temperatures down.
The peak under partial load is 1.35, but full load is 1.26v.

I'm getting there by way of Offset -.08125v.

Should I leave these Ultra and 130% or lower them? If I do I need to push the voltage higher since at these settings I cannot clock higher or lower the voltage without instability.
I don't know which is preferable, higher voltage or lower Digi+ settings.


----------



## ROKO__

i was try with "Extreme" LLC on my GB and get to run on 4300MHz with 1.275V prime95/linx and another stress tests under linux show stability but i think is not really stable..
For example i was burn cdrom today and system freeze and restart i dont know if this is releated to VCore. I increase VCore to 1.3V system is still stable and running. But need to test again some usual tasks.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKO__*
> 
> i was try with "Extreme" LLC on my GB and get to run on 4300MHz with 1.275V prime95/linx and another stress tests under linux show stability but i think is not really stable..
> For example i was burn cdrom today and system freeze and restart i dont know if this is releated to VCore. I increase VCore to 1.3V system is still stable and running. But need to test again some usual tasks.


Make sure you run prime95 with 75% of your RAM and give it enough time (at least 2 hours, preferably 6).

@Anyone - Is LLC set to 'Auto' mean disabled or does it mean that the motherboard will choose an LLC on it's own as it seems fit? After reading this: http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad I'm trying to see what a good low LLC is and I don't know if 'regular' or 'auto' is more 'off'.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ROKO__*
> 
> i was try with "Extreme" LLC on my GB and get to run on 4300MHz with 1.275V prime95/linx and another stress tests under linux show stability but i think is not really stable..
> For example i was burn cdrom today and system freeze and restart i dont know if this is releated to VCore. I increase VCore to 1.3V system is still stable and running. But need to test again some usual tasks.
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you run prime95 with 75% of your RAM and give it enough time (at least 2 hours, preferably 6).
> 
> @Anyone - Is LLC set to 'Auto' mean disabled or does it mean that the motherboard will choose an LLC on it's own as it seems fit? After reading this: http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad I'm trying to see what a good low LLC is and I don't know if 'regular' or 'auto' is more 'off'.
Click to expand...

I only have experience with Asus boards but when left on auto the LLC can really put the volts to it and I found it too unpredictable. I run mine on high which give a slight droop when not loaded but hit my set voltage when under load. This is on my CHV-z

EDIT: the one thing I have noticed is that every manufacturer has differences in their implementation of LLC so you may have to experiment a bit.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> I only have experience with Asus boards but when left on auto the LLC can really put the volts to it and I found it too unpredictable. I run mine on high which give a slight droop when not loaded but hit my set voltage when under load. This is on my CHV-z
> 
> EDIT: the one thing I have noticed is that every manufacturer has differences in their implementation of LLC so you may have to experiment a bit.


Thanks. My board is an M5A99X EVO R2.0 so that should be true. I decided to see what I could back off on those Digi+ settings.
I turned the Current Capacities to 100% first, and saw absolutely no change in anything.

Next I backed off the CPU LLC.
I'm currently running as Regular. It cost me half my undervolting (from -.08 to -.04, but it seems stable and the offset voltage seem to settle around the same numbers). Still burn testing to be sure, but the temperatures are still nice and cold after a couple hours.

The last thing I'm not sure about is that I have CPU/NB LLC set to 'Auto' which is recommended for FSB overclocking, but I'm wondering if that is safer as 'Normal' as well. I do have the offset at -.006125 for safety (since without setting an offset, even positive, auto goes a bit nuts).

CPU/NB LLC suggestions? FSB is 236, which seems to be my limit without pumping a lot of juice into the NB and/or RAM.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Thanks. My board is an M5A99X EVO R2.0 so that should be true. I decided to see what I could back off on those Digi+ settings.
> I turned the Current Capacities to 100% first, and saw absolutely no change in anything.
> 
> Next I backed off the CPU LLC.
> I'm currently running as Regular. It cost me half my undervolting (from -.08 to -.04, but it seems stable and the offset voltage seem to settle around the same numbers). Still burn testing to be sure, but the temperatures are still nice and cold after a couple hours.
> 
> The last thing I'm not sure about is that I have CPU/NB LLC set to 'Auto' which is recommended for FSB overclocking, but I'm wondering if that is safer as 'Normal' as well. I do have the offset at -.006125 for safety (since without setting an offset, even positive, auto goes a bit nuts).
> 
> CPU/NB LLC suggestions? FSB is 236, which seems to be my limit without pumping a lot of juice into the NB and/or RAM.


Your hunch is correct there. You want to take the CPU/NB LLC off Auto. ASUS boards have a habit of setting it to Extreme under Auto to aid stability. You can double check this though if you like, via the AI Suite II software. If you set Auto in bios, then load up the App in windows, you can see what Auto has set the values to. This can also be used to find your VID with turbo and all power saving off.

Hope this helps, dropping the LLC on CPU/NB should shed a good amount of heat! You can use AIDA64 to monitor NB voltage on some ASUS boards too.


----------



## Melcar

On my M5A97 EVO "Auto" is the same as disabled, apparently. It does nothing. Turning LLC on overvolts (a problem with M5A97 boards).


----------



## TheLandstander

I have not been able to find any monitor for the CPU/NB voltage outside of the BIOS. AI Suite didn't neither does HW Monitor. Do they call it something funny?

I tried taking the CPU/NB from Auto to regular, and my system became unstable. I guess I can try medium or whatever the next step up is. I found the same was true for the CPU LLC. Regular is just too unstable.

@Melcar - The BIOS I believe refers to 'Regular' LLC settings as 0%. That sounds more like off than Auto might be. Are you sure Regular is volting higher than auto while overclocking?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ROKO__*
> 
> i was try with "Extreme" LLC on my GB and get to run on 4300MHz with 1.275V prime95/linx and another stress tests under linux show stability but i think is not really stable..
> For example i was burn cdrom today and system freeze and restart i dont know if this is releated to VCore. I increase VCore to 1.3V system is still stable and running. But need to test again some usual tasks.
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you run prime95 with 75% of your RAM and give it enough time (at least 2 hours, preferably 6).
> 
> @Anyone - Is LLC set to 'Auto' mean disabled or does it mean that the motherboard will choose an LLC on it's own as it seems fit? After reading this: http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad I'm trying to see what a good low LLC is and I don't know if 'regular' or 'auto' is more 'off'.
Click to expand...

most times asus will choose extreme ( meaning all the time, thats what auto is ) and ...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> EDIT: the one thing I have noticed is that every manufacturer has differences in their implementation of LLC so you may have to experiment a bit.


this
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> I only have experience with Asus boards but when left on auto the LLC can really put the volts to it and I found it too unpredictable. I run mine on high which give a slight droop when not loaded but hit my set voltage when under load. This is on my CHV-z
> 
> EDIT: the one thing I have noticed is that every manufacturer has differences in their implementation of LLC so you may have to experiment a bit.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks. My board is an M5A99X EVO R2.0 so that should be true. I decided to see what I could back off on those Digi+ settings.
> I turned the Current Capacities to 100% first, and saw absolutely no change in anything.
> 
> Next I backed off the CPU LLC.
> I'm currently running as Regular. It cost me half my undervolting (from -.08 to -.04, but it seems stable and the offset voltage seem to settle around the same numbers). Still burn testing to be sure, but the temperatures are still nice and cold after a couple hours.
> 
> The last thing I'm not sure about is that I have CPU/NB LLC set to 'Auto' which is recommended for FSB overclocking, but I'm wondering if that is safer as 'Normal' as well. I do have the offset at -.006125 for safety (since without setting an offset, even positive, auto goes a bit nuts).
> 
> CPU/NB LLC suggestions? FSB is 236, which seems to be my limit without pumping a lot of juice into the NB and/or RAM.
Click to expand...

dont leave it on auto. llc for that i use high
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I have not been able to find any monitor for the CPU/NB voltage outside of the BIOS. AI Suite didn't neither does HW Monitor. Do they call it something funny?
> 
> I tried taking the CPU/NB from Auto to regular, and my system became unstable. I guess I can try medium or whatever the next step up is. I found the same was true for the CPU LLC. Regular is just too unstable.
> 
> @Melcar - The BIOS I believe refers to 'Regular' LLC settings as 0%. That sounds more like off than Auto might be. Are you sure Regular is volting higher than auto while overclocking?


you cant with all mobos, iam unsure of it on yours, personally though i would check hwinfo and ditch hwmonitor


----------



## TheLandstander

Maybe the first posts of this thread should be updated. There are two places where it tells you to set the CPU/NB LLC to Auto; in the set up for 5ghz Overclocking and again with the settings needed for fsb overclocking.

I've done some more testing and neither CPU nor CPU/NB LLC set to regular is stable.
Currently my only non-default Digi+ settings are CPU on Medium CPU/NB on High. Oddly the first setting after Regular on the NB IS High. I don't know why there are less options there.

I've been favoring Open Hardware Monitor. It seems a bit better than HW Monitor and doesn't expect you to pay for more features.
Will check AIDA64 and HWinfo. I'm not sure I want to go back and find out what Auto NB LLC was churning out though. I turned the voltage offset to Auto once and it hit some uncomfortable numbers.

Thanks for the tips guys, I think I've finally gotten things locked down. Even if it isn't a fantastic overclock, it is cold and the Turbo number is great (I'm going to retest it higher now that I'm giving more voltage).
I would have been really pissed to run any AMD chip at stock speeds.


----------



## Mega Man

hwinfo is free adia is not.

as to the turbo, if you can just go for the turbo full time. as to the guide it is has been updated for a long time to my knowledge, you can pop into the 83xx thread in my sig if you have any questions


----------



## ROKO__

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Make sure you run prime95 with 75% of your RAM and give it enough time (at least 2 hours, preferably 6).
> 
> @Anyone - Is LLC set to 'Auto' mean disabled or does it mean that the motherboard will choose an LLC on it's own as it seems fit? After reading this: http://www.masterslair.com/vdroop-and-load-line-calibration-is-vdroop-really-bad I'm trying to see what a good low LLC is and I don't know if 'regular' or 'auto' is more 'off'.


Thanks for response.
hm prime95 was not good test for AMD FX i think.
but okay how can i stress with 75% of ram ?

http://www.numberworld.org/y-cruncher/

I will test with this stress program. i type 6144MB of ram and 8 threads. And will see in 1 or 2 hours temperatures how will be and stability


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> hm prime95 was not good test for AMD FX i think.


You 're mistaken. There was an early version of Prime95 that wasn't patched for FX. Now it's fine. It's not good for unstable overclocks, because it's easier to get away with another, more forgiving stress test.


----------



## Piddeman

***Gone***


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

^LOL LOL LOL Troollllllllllllllolololool

and we can see your ignorance.. when you feel like not making a fool of yourself lets us know cause we can help,

BUT with that post I care not to and let you wallow in a self made pity with pathetic terms that you just showed you have no idea what you are talking about

FOOL


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> ^LOL LOL LOL Troollllllllllllllolololool
> 
> and we can see your ignorance.. when you feel like not making a fool of yourself lets us know cause we can help,
> 
> BUT with that post I care not to and let you wallow in a self made pity with pathetic terms that you just showed you have no idea what you are talking about
> 
> FOOL


It seems a miracle happened and now his signature says it's running OC @ 4.5Ghz.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> It seems a miracle happened and now his signature says it's running OC @ 4.5Ghz.


now it was edited


----------



## TheLandstander

@ROKO - Select "Run a Torture Test". Click the "Custom" button. Under "Memory to use (in MB)" enter .75 x your RAM. Click "OK".


----------



## TheLandstander

Now I have a question.
Without power saving features or turbo, I can set the Vcore around 1.27v and run solid @ 4ghz (the socket peaks around 68 degrees here).
To get there I use offset mode and a negative modifier to lower the voltage (-.05).

With turbo and the power saving stuff on, the same negative .05 modifier now gives a voltage of around 1.35v in the BIOS (1.38v peak under real world conditions).
For some reason the mobo pushes the voltage higher. It would be higher still without my negative modifier.

Now here's the thing. Under turbo I can hit Full Load of 4.37ghz (18.5x) and half load of 4.6ghz (19.5x) at 3-5 degrees LOWER than when the Vcore was 1.25v. This is 6 hour prime95 stable.
The energy saving features really chill things out even with the higher voltage peaks.

Now here is the thing. I should be able to run a higher base speed just by upping the voltage to about 1.38v (manual), but by that time it is too hot in the socket without the cooling features.

Is it a good idea to try engaging turbo, the energy saving and upping the base speed to burn test, or is that inconclusive?
With those settings on the voltage would peak high enough for the faster overclock, but the temperature would be cool enough under load.

If I can burn test at 1.38v (manual), it really isn't conclusive because once I engage offset mode/turbo/energy saving, I'd be using -.05v again to peak at 1.38v.

I guess I don't know what I should do. There seems to be more capacity there, but I can't be sure of the proper way to test it.


----------



## StryckNyne

Put a fan on those vrm's and over the socket on the backside of the motherboard if you can and test it like that.


----------



## TheLandstander

I can report that the offset voltage versus manual voltage do not seem to correlate.

At 18x with manual voltage set to 1.35v, it's stable under prime95 for 25 minutes (didn't test longer but the socket hit 72). 18.5x is unstable and fails in seconds.
With offset -.05v, BIOS says 1.344 - 1.35v, turbo, and energy saving on, 18.5x fails in a few minutes.
17.5x failed to blue screen in less than 10 minutes.

So if you are switching from manual to offset, you may need to give more juice to be stable. I'll say it again, if you've hit a wall, try enabling a mild turbo, you just might be surprised, but you'll need to burn test again.

@StryckNyne: Yeah, I haven't found fanning the VRMs to be particularly effective and I have no way to cool the socket back. That's why I'm settling for a mild overclock and a high turbo. I get 4ghz and a top turbo of 4.6ghz undervolting and a low 60 degrees on the socket.

Eventually I'll get a new case, and then I'll try again.


----------



## ROKO__

Hey guys!

Is it possible to overclock turbo performance states ? For example 4 GHz baze freq, 4200 turbo and 4400 turbo ?


----------



## Mega Man

you would have to use AOD


----------



## TheLandstander

My Asus m5a99x evo r2.0 BIOS has a place to enter a Turbo value. Maybe it's only been recently added(?)


----------



## Mega Man

that is only one. you would have to use AOD to do both as you want , the number of cores you want but be warned.

if you change the voltage in bios. it changes the voltage in AOD unless there was a update to it you are adding to the vore set in bios


----------



## TheLandstander

Um, I got half of that.

(For those spetating, I do want to clarify, that confusingly:
Half Load Turbo is when only a few cores are active. This is the FASTEST that the chip will turbo to and the most demanding.
Full Load Turbo happens while the CPU is under full load. It is a slower and less demanding.)

@Mega Man:
"That is only one" - Do you mean that is only the Half Turbo multiplier and not the Full Turbo multiplier that can be changed in the BIOS? That does seem to be the case, but with a FSB overclock that hasn't been an issue for me. But since the default 20x for half turbo is way too much at 237mhz, the ability to lower it has been helpful.

If you mean AOD lets you tune how many cores are active before half/full turbo engages... then yeah, that would be different from the BIOS settings and something I don't want to mess with.

If you mean it only effects one core(?) That is not true. Using Open Hardware Monitor I've seen that all 8 cores have hit Turbo speeds.

As far as Vcore, yes, I use 'Offset' for Turbo as shown in the guide. The Vcore jumped almost a tenth of a volt when Turbo was enabled.
In real world functionality it only requires that much voltage when Half Turbo (the highest speed) is engaged and that is only for fractions of a second.

As long as a spike to that voltage isn't an issue, don't expect it to happen often or for very long.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Um, I got half of that.
> 
> @Mega Man:
> 
> If you mean AOD lets you tune how many cores are active before half/full turbo engages... then yeah, that would be different from the BIOS settings and something I don't want to mess with.


YES


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> YES


Wow.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Wow.


Exactly...AOD can n will allow you to define-make your CPU tweaks-OC preferences-settings. While still in OS.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikemykeMB*
> 
> Exactly...AOD can n will allow you to define-make your CPU tweaks-OC preferences-settings. While still in OS.


I understand AOD can make changes under Windows. I'm wowing because it lets you fine tune the core activity needed to turbo. Something I would think AMD would not want you messing with.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I understand AOD can make changes under Windows. I'm wowing because it lets you fine tune the core activity needed to turbo. Something I would think AMD would not want you messing with.


I too was wow'd, just meant it to say along with your single comment.


----------



## ROKO__

Hm i will not use windows because of AOD, so will stay in linux with static clock :>


----------



## DigDeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I'm still fine tuning, but I'm open to suggestions, criticism, whatever.
> 
> Temperature is an issue that I choose not to deal with. Fans on the VRM show minimal improvement, I can't access the back, and increasing case circulation has zero effect. The CPU tends to run 15-20 degrees colder than the socket, so that's probably doing the best that it can.
> 
> My FX-8320 (3.5ghz) CPU at stock voltages (1.33v) can hit 4.2ghz before I need to bump it up. Unfortunately, it's already too hot at that point.
> I decided I'd rather just run colder if I can hit 4ghz (stock FX-8350 speed).
> 
> That's when I realized how much these chips can be UNDER-volted.
> As currently stable:
> 
> 17 x 236mhz fsb = 4012mhz
> DDR3 @ 1888
> CPU/NP & HT = 2360mhz & 2596mhz
> 
> Digi+ are as shown in the first posts for 5ghz o/c plus CPU/NB LLC Auto as list in FSB overclock section.
> 
> CPU offset voltage = -.08125v (BIOS reports 1.248v, HWMonitor shows it can fluctuate with Turbo core to about 1.35v and as low as .8v while idle!?
> CPU/NB Offset = -.006250 (BIOS reports 1.2v (which is stock)) I don't see a listing for this in HWMonitor so I don't know what it's really doing.
> CPU VDDA = 2.2v (BIOS reads 2.242v)
> DRAM Voltage = 1.5v
> 
> C 'n' Q, C1E, C6 = Enabled (C6 in theory does almost nothing under Win7 and that's fine by me.)
> Apm Master Mode = Auto
> HPC = Disabled
> 
> With Turbo on the default multiplier of 20x, it will fail Prime95, so I've set it to 19.5x.
> Full Load Turbo gives around 4366mhz. Supposedly half load should hit 4602ghz, but if it does, it isn't often.
> 
> Without Turbo core under Prime95 the CPU doesn't break 50 degrees and the socket stays mid to upper 60's.
> With Turbo and all the power saving refinements it runs about 5 degrees cooler under full load.
> 
> I'm still fine tuning the last point or two of fsb and voltage, but the above number are 6 hours prime95 stable (without turbo) and 1 hr stable prime95 AND AIDA64 with turbo.
> 
> Like I said, thoughts or suggestions?
> 
> *Edit:* I would like to mention that I get a Cinebench score of 643 at 4ghz only, but something like 656 with turbo on. I'm sure this chip can do better, but not without a new case... or a dremel.
> *
> Edit 2:* A suggestion to anyone who has hit a real wall on their overclock: try Turbo Core. Conservative at first and then bump it. (Make sure the power saving stuff like CnQ, C1E and APM master are on.)
> 
> You can test full load turbo (which is slower), using Prime95 w/ 75% of your RAM. Since it turns on and off the higher speed the cores don't need to be stable there long, but a long enough test should show any weakness.
> 
> To test half load turbo (the top speed (4.6ghz for me)), use Prime95 w/75% of your RAM, but only set it to use 1 core. Prime95 will pass the load around among your cores and eventually they'll all get tested at full speed. Again, it doesn't stay there long, but it will let you kick the tires. They won't be at that speed long in real world applications either.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1409067/undervolting-8350fx-without-losing-performance/40#post_22341650


----------



## TheLandstander

I decided I wasn't satisfied and started retweaking yesterday. I now find myself really wanting to tweak the Full Load Turbo but refuse to install Asus's software. The last piece I installed took me forever to manually remove all the bits it left behind in the registry and elsewhere.

Anyway, I'm currently running 4.13ghz (17.5x), 4.37ghz (18.5x), 4.72ghz (20x). I'm pretty sure things are stable enough to have the Full Load Turbo at least at 19x if not 19.5x.

I emailed Asus, for what that's worth, requesting that they bring a setting for that to the BIOS and not just Ai Overclock Tuner. I'm sure non-Windows users would agree that it sucks not having access under BIOS.

I urge anyone else interested to drop Asus a note. The more the merrier.

Btw, does anyone know what the Auto voltages typically are for stock settings on an FX-8320? I know non-Turbo is about 1.33v, but under Turbo that tends to get kicked higher and I don't remember testing that before overclocing.

ATM, I'm running at -.01875 which brings the non-Turbo in just below stock, the Turbo to 1.38v, but under half load it peaks at 1.404v. Does that sounds like an okay number? I'm trying not to exceed stock numbers if I can help it to keep temperatures cool.

Btw, before someone says to just bump the speed and turn off Turbo, there is a pretty substantial voltage bump needed for the next multiplier and that runs awfully hot in my case. Turbo gives a performance boost without the associated temperature increase.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I decided I wasn't satisfied and started retweaking yesterday. I now find myself really wanting to tweak the Full Load Turbo but refuse to install Asus's software. The last piece I installed took me forever to manually remove all the bits it left behind in the registry and elsewhere.
> 
> Anyway, I'm currently running 4.13ghz (17.5x), 4.37ghz (18.5x), 4.72ghz (20x). I'm pretty sure things are stable enough to have the Full Load Turbo at least at 19x if not 19.5x.
> 
> I emailed Asus, for what that's worth, requesting that they bring a setting for that to the BIOS and not just Ai Overclock Tuner. I'm sure non-Windows users would agree that it sucks not having access under BIOS.
> 
> I urge anyone else interested to drop Asus a note. The more the merrier.
> 
> Btw, does anyone know what the Auto voltages typically are for stock settings on an FX-8320? I know non-Turbo is about 1.33v, but under Turbo that tends to get kicked higher and I don't remember testing that before overclocing.
> 
> ATM, I'm running at -.01875 which brings the non-Turbo in just below stock, the Turbo to 1.38v, but under half load it peaks at 1.404v. Does that sounds like an okay number? I'm trying not to exceed stock numbers if I can help it to keep temperatures cool.
> 
> Btw, before someone says to just bump the speed and turn off Turbo, there is a pretty substantial voltage bump needed for the next multiplier and that runs awfully hot in my case. Turbo gives a performance boost without the associated temperature increase.


If you set your PC to defaults you can extract the P-States using CPU-z, that'll give your voltages for different multi levels. Just open cpu-z go to the about tab and select save as txt file. It'll spit it out in there along with a lot of other info so just look for it. It'll look like this

P-State FID 0x1A - VID 0x0A - IDD 13 (21.00x - 1.425 V)
P-State FID 0x19 - VID 0x0B - IDD 13 (20.50x - 1.412 V)
P-State FID 0x18 - VID 0x0E - IDD 12 (20.00x - 1.375 V)
P-State FID 0x12 - VID 0x16 - IDD 10 (17.00x - 1.275 V)
P-State FID 0xC - VID 0x1F - IDD 8 (14.00x - 1.162 V)
P-State FID 0x5 - VID 0x29 - IDD 5 (10.50x - 1.037 V)
P-State FID 0x10C - VID 0x33 - IDD 4 (7.00x - 0.912 V)

Every CPU is set different depending on "quality" as you can see my Turbo vid is 1.425v


----------



## TheLandstander

Cool. With everything at default my 20x (turbo) is 1.404v (tested not via CPUz). I'll have to recheck with CPUz when I get a chance.

CPUz with my overclock is telling me my turbo is 1.425v. But that's really not true. It does not go above 1.404v. Apparently those numbers are before whatever offset you've chosen.

So things have worked out pretty well. I'm not really undervolting anymore so much as applying -.01875v which gives me just about the same base and turbo voltages as stock even though the system is overclocked (both fsb and multiplier). 17.5x is 1.32v and 20x is 1.404v. Just low enough voltage to stay a hair below a 70 degree socket.

Btw, were the thermal limits changed in the guide? They currently say 62 and 72, I swore it was previously 61 and 70 or something.


----------



## Overclockjock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> You sure can. I think that the Sabertooth has a couple more options for Sub Zero Overclocking that I don't have listed. But otherwise it's the same.


Thanks ComputerRestore.

I've used your guide as reference to my very first overclock and it has helped tremendously, especially the part including bios defaults and what to disable.

I will edit my post "My first nightmare overclocking experience" and attribute my success to this guide.

Repin ya now.


----------



## Boomboomown

Hey guys. I've been a long time reader on the site and reading this guide for my CPU has been a blast. I had a question about the whole turbo thing and how it's being used. So far I feel I'm at my max OC.
Fx-8320 @ 4.5
Vcore @ 1.32
Multi is 22.5
Other than that I followed the settings in the guide for "up to 5.0 overclock"

Seems like this is the highest I can go with a core temp of 55 under load and socket temp of about 73. H80i in a push/pull setup all running off of a m5a99fx pro r2.0. 750w bronze psu.

If I go to 4.6 I have to bump my voltage and that puts my socket temp way too high. So what exactly is everyone talking about with the half load and full load turbo thing? I read that part of the guide but it's still confusing. Are cores being disabled and if so which ones should be disabled? Is it only if you do a FSB OC or are people using the AOD to do it? If someone wouldn't mind giving me the laymens down and dirty on the whole turbo aspect it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you so much!


----------



## TheLandstander

Turbo Core is a complicated algorithm from what I understand, but the gist is that when the CPU isn't using all cores at full capacity, it dials down the unused ones and accelerates the rest. This comes with an increase in voltage to the chip (I've found about a tenth of a volt), but it is able to dissipate the heat better since its not all cores running.

This improves 'single core' performance.

The process is in steps. If the chip has all cores running (full load), it can boost a little bit, but under light use (half load), the few cores running can be clocked even harder.

Overclocking full load seems to only be possible with the Ai Overclocker or if by increasing your FSB. The half load (top number) can be adjusted in the BIOS.
Either way, you'll need to re-test your overclock using 'offset' voltages and keep an eye on what it peaks at.


----------



## Boomboomown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Turbo Core is a complicated algorithm from what I understand, but the gist is that when the CPU isn't using all cores at full capacity, it dials down the unused ones and accelerates the rest. This comes with an increase in voltage to the chip (I've found about a tenth of a volt), but it is able to dissipate the heat better since its not all cores running.
> 
> This improves 'single core' performance.
> 
> The process is in steps. If the chip has all cores running (full load), it can boost a little bit, but under light use (half load), the few cores running can be clocked even harder.
> 
> Overclocking full load seems to only be possible with the Ai Overclocker or if by increasing your FSB. The half load (top number) can be adjusted in the BIOS.
> Either way, you'll need to re-test your overclock using 'offset' voltages and keep an eye on what it peaks at.


Ok thanks for the explanation. I think I'm understanding it. So it automatically does the dialing down of the cores after it's been set where I'm not doing anything correct? Also I was looking through the AOD software and it looks like it gives you the option of enabling Turbo Core on specific cores. Is that what I should be doing or should it just be done for all cores and let it decide on it's own when it's under half or full load? Thanks again!


----------



## TheLandstander

I have no advice I could give you about tweaking specific cores. That's a little specific for my tastes.
I just set a multiplier (for half load turbo), raised the voltage until stable, when I saw I had a little leeway (in temperature or max voltage) bumped the multiplier again, etc.

My full load is the default 18.5x because I'm only tweaking in BIOS, but I've already overclocked the FSB so that gives me a bump anyway.

I recommend re-burn testing. Once you switch to offset mode, the voltages work a bit differently than manual. So burn test the base speed with Turbo and energy features off.
Then set a turbo and check what the new offset voltage is. It will be automatically higher, make sure you can live with that. Set the energy features (that's what sets the cores to turn on and off).

In Prime95, test the half turbo first (most likely to fail). Do this by manually setting the RAM to 75% and select to test only 1 core. Try not to do anything else on your PC while this is going on so it spends more time in turbo. You'll see the speed bounce off the top speeds every now and then in your hardware monitor.

Once that's stable, burn test AGAIN with Prime95 using all your cores. That will make sure the Full Load turbo overclock is stable.
It won't hit the top speed, but it will hit the middle/full load one.

I'll repeat this just to clarify the confusing naming scheme: FULL load turbo is SLOWER than HALF load turbo. This is because with half the activity on the chip it can boost the active cores higher.


----------



## Boomboomown

Well I went ahead and tried to do a FSB OC to enable the Turbo control. Quick question though. When you say you set the multiplier for half-load, are you talking about finding the FSB you're going to use and then tweaking the cpu multiplier? Or are you specifically setting the Turbo multiplier? How does the computer know when to do half and full load? Sorry about the questions but for whatever reason this part is just not clicking with me haha.

On the other hand with my attempt these were the results I've got. No clue if I did it right or it's working as intended so hopefully someone here has some insight.

I followed the rec. settings in the guide and made some minor tweaks. On just the multi I was getting 4.5 @ 1.34V and right under my thermal limit. Now I'm @ 4.25 with a FSB @ 250 and the multi @ 17 or 17.5 I can't remember. When I enabled the Turbo and turned to voltage to offset + my CPU seems to be sitting at 4.65 @ 1.44V all the time. It's like the Turbo is engaged constantly. So far it's been passing all the stress tests and I saw no downside while gaming. I just don't think it should constantly be at 4.6. It's showing all 8 cores at that speed also. So I have no idea if I did this right or not haha.

*Edit* So I used HWinfo to monitor my individual cores and saw something I'm not sure is right or not. When doing the single core test on Prime, none of my cores were actually at 100% usage. They all had small loads on them with a couple having a larger load (20-40). These were all working at 4.65 using the Turbo with the Auto multiplier. When I ran Prime on all 8 doing the custom test it showed all 8 at 100% but 5-6 would be at 4.65 and the rest would be at 4.25. This would bounce from core to core. So I think I'm seeing the half load on everything because I've seen no middle ground on 8 core tests. Is this doing what it should be doing or did I mess up somewhere? Thanks in advance!


----------



## TheLandstander

The BIOS only lets you set one multiplier for Turbo and that's the half load. The full load is pre-set on the chip. I'm told the AOD software lets you set the half-load to something different.

Yes, I found my FSB value first for my base overclock and let that carry over to my turbos (since it's still FSB x Turbo Multiplier).

As far as the voltage goes, if you know the manual voltage needed, you may need to play around to get the same voltage once you switch to offset mode (and make sure it's stable).

The other thing is when you switch on Turbo, you need to also enable C 'n' Q and APM Mode. If the CPU can't shut off cores, it won't boost the other ones. That may be your problem.


----------



## Boomboomown

Well I've got all of the power saving features active and it is still running all cores at the 4.65 speed. Also I'm going to just stick with using the BIOS instead of using AOD since it seems the BIOS does the same thing unless I'm mistaken. I ran my CPU on the custom prime test last night using all cores and it had no errors or warnings so I'm assuming it's stable? Just wish I could figure out how to stop the Turbo from constantly being active.


----------



## DarylWise

Can I use this guide with the amd fx-8320 vishera and the ASUS M5A97 LE R2.0?


----------



## StryckNyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarylWise*
> 
> Can I use this guide with the amd fx-8320 vishera and the ASUS M5A97 LE R2.0?


Yeah you should be able to.


----------



## Razzaa

So i upgraded today from a 6300 to a 8350. I have been trying to OC my 8350 but I am having a horrible time with it. I cant get 4.5ghz even @ 1.5v. I was able to get my 6300 to 4.9 @ that voltage. I would appreciate any advice you guys could offer. Below is screens of my bios settings. Maybe i just got unlucky with this chip.....





It keeps freezing up no matter what voltage it seems. It wont even Auto Tune to 4.2.......


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> So i upgraded today from a 6300 to a 8350. I have been trying to OC my 8350 but I am having a horrible time with it. I cant get 4.5ghz even @ 1.5v. I was able to get my 6300 to 4.9 @ that voltage. I would appreciate any advice you guys could offer. Below is screens of my bios settings. Maybe i just got unlucky with this chip.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It keeps freezing up no matter what voltage it seems. It wont even Auto Tune to 4.2.......


A couple things to get the ball rolling.

I always recommend to manually enter ALL Dram specs in bios, Freq, timings and voltage.
Auto tune will over volt and not be anywhere close to optimized.

Make sure you have latest bios flashed.

What are you stress testing with?
Possible to post some snips of HWInfo64 while testing would be helpful.

Any cooling for the VRM's installed? Your mobo only has a 4+2 phase count which could become an issue.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> A couple things to get the ball rolling.
> 
> I always recommend to manually enter ALL Dram specs in bios, Freq, timings and voltage.
> Auto tune will over volt and not be anywhere close to optimized.
> 
> Make sure you have latest bios flashed.
> 
> What are you stress testing with?
> Possible to post some snips of HWInfo64 while testing would be helpful.
> 
> Any cooling for the VRM's installed? Your mobo only has a 4+2 phase count which could become an issue.


I am using prime95 to test. This chip didnt like LLC for some reason. Im currently able to do small fft stress tests without a problem running 4.4ghz @ 1.320v. Going to try and get 4.5 stable with a custom test as per the guide.For some reason my socket temps are running 20c higher then my core temps in HWmonitor......


----------



## Razzaa

So it seems I need to add some better cooling to my socket area. Does a 6300 run that much cooler? I never had tgis high socket temps with that chip. This 8350 sure gives off heat lol


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> So it seems I need to add some better cooling to my socket area. Does a 6300 run that much cooler? I never had tgis high socket temps with that chip. This 8350 sure gives off heat lol


Oh heck yes it does! Like no other.

Try adding an old case fan to blow across the VRM's etc.
Zip ties will work in a pinch plus whatever you can do to improve overall air flow (more fans?) will only help.
To go a little extreme you can also add a 120mm (X 15mm thick if ness) fan behind the mobo tray to help keep those temps down but this would probably require a case mod.

With the limited phase count you may be experiencing some heat soak from the VRM's and maybe even NB, combined with CPU socket by itself, well I think you can see where this is going.

Check my rig sig, my setup runs 6 intake fans and this is with a VRM/NB WB lol.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Oh heck yes it does! Like no other.
> 
> Try adding an old case fan to blow across the VRM's etc.
> Zip ties will work in a pinch plus whatever you can do to improve overall air flow (more fans?) will only help.
> To go a little extreme you can also add a 120mm (X 15mm thick if ness) fan behind the mobo tray to help keep those temps down but this would probably require a case mod.
> 
> With the limited phase count you may be experiencing some heat soak from the VRM's and maybe even NB, combined with CPU socket by itself, well I think you can see where this is going.
> 
> Check my rig sig, my setup runs 6 intake fans and this is with a VRM/NB WB lol.


Ya it runs hot as hell!! I tried a case fan blowing across the Vrm but it did squat lol. I guess i will get a small fan for the back of the mobo. Thanks for the tips! Funny thing is my core temps are cool so if i tackle this socket and vrm issue i might be golden. I almost gought a Asus M5a99fx board today..........might go back and get it.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> Ya it runs hot as hell!! I tried a case fan blowing across the Vrm but it did squat lol. I guess i will get a small fan for the back of the mobo. Thanks for the tips! Funny thing is my core temps are cool so if i tackle this socket and vrm issue i might be golden. I almost gought a Asus M5a99fx board today..........might go back and get it.


If it's in the budget think Sabortooth or CHV-Z for worry free fun time lol.


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> If it's in the budget think Sabertooth or CHV-Z for worry free fun time lol.


Have to agree - I have both and they've been nothing but good from day 1.

Actually I have a CHV, CHV-Z and a Sabertooth 2.0 with each one being it's own "Animal" yet they behave in similar fashion overall.

For those wanting to have a BIOS that's not too complicated yet still deliver the goods the Sabertooth is the answer. Compared to a CHV / CHV-Z's BIOS it's simple to tweak and get good performance. The CHV / CHV-Z (Especially the CHV-Z) can overwhelm someone that's not really knowlegeable in the area of BIOS tweaking with all the options available. If it's something that can be tweaked, there's an option for it in there and it's all too easy to tweak the wrong thing or whatever and go crazy trying to figure out what you did wrong. The Sabertooth in comparison is much easier to work with but know that in the hands of an experienced bencher the CHV / CHV-Z will come out on top.

The available tweaking options in the CHV-Z's BIOS for example are more extensive by comparison, you can give more voltage to the chipset than you could with the Sabertooth because the voltage range with the CHV-Z for this option is more extensive, the Sabertooth having a max of 1.25v's you can give it while the CHV-Z can give it at least 1.40v's or higher if you really want to. Luckily the NB on these boards doesn't need that much but shows some of the differences are between the two models. However you can't go wrong with any of them, the Sabertooth in fact is one I would not hesitate to recomend to anyone and I can attest to what it's capable of.

Here's an example of what I can do with my Sabertooth 2.0 and a 8320 Vishy chip and yes, it's capable of more.


----------



## Razzaa

Do tou guys think this fan will perform well enough on the back of my mobo to drop socket temps?

Scythe KAZE-JYUNI Slip Stream Slim 120mm 12MM Cooling Fan 1600RPM 28.8DB 38CFM
- See more at: http://android.ncix.com/2.0/products/sku/39632/1715#sthash.zqwDBOi4.dpuf


----------



## waveaddict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> So i upgraded today from a 6300 to a 8350. I have been trying to OC my 8350 but I am having a horrible time with it. I cant get 4.5ghz even @ 1.5v. I was able to get my 6300 to 4.9 @ that voltage. I would appreciate any advice you guys could offer. Below is screens of my bios settings. Maybe i just got unlucky with this chip.....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It keeps freezing up no matter what voltage it seems. It wont even Auto Tune to 4.2.......


Disable turbo,you have it on auto.


----------



## Razzaa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *waveaddict*
> 
> Disable turbo,you have it on auto.


lmao ya i figured that out right after i posted t. I have 4.4 prime stable atm. I am trying to get 4.5 stable. My problem is the socket temps. My core temps are running cool. Going to pick up this fan today for the back of the mobo hopefully it cools down after. Slip Stream Slim 120mm 12MM Cooling Fan 1600RPM 28.8DB 38CFM


----------



## Razzaa

I used the heatsink fan that came with my chip and put it on the back plate of my mobo with double sided sticky tape............made a huge difference in socket temps. Love this forum!! Thanks guys.

Will it be able to draw enough air with the side panel on? Or will it just recirculate hot air off the socket?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> I used the heatsink fan that came with my chip and put it on the back plate of my mobo with double sided sticky tape............made a huge difference in socket temps. Love this forum!! Thanks guys.
> 
> Will it be able to draw enough air with the side panel on? Or will it just recirculate hot air off the socket?


Depends on how the air flow is arranged. Is the H100i exhausting?

I would think at the "point of first contact" (cool outside air contacting mobo) the affect would remain the same.
Only one way to find out!

My system runs just slightly hotter with the side cover off.


----------



## mikemykeMB

Agree to the lesser of heat....

Re-done...did my back fan on the VRM's..had....

AND...


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Razzaa*
> 
> lmao ya i figured that out right after i posted t. I have 4.4 prime stable atm. I am trying to get 4.5 stable. My problem is the socket temps. My core temps are running cool. Going to pick up this fan today for the back of the mobo hopefully it cools down after. Slip Stream Slim 120mm 12MM Cooling Fan 1600RPM 28.8DB 38CFM


I have the 1200 and the 2000rpm versions of that fan. They do not move much air! And even less witha grill over them. However, it doesn't take much to make a big difference.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

I was trying to use this OC'ing guide to help make my OC stable at 4.4ghz But I am still running into some problems with it been stable....

I am using just the CPU multiplier to get the OC I have followed all the steps I got past the first 10 minute prime95 run and it was running like a dream all day no crash for 10 hours then it locked up









I have got my CPU voltage at 1.3625 and it does cap out while playing games but also changes to 1.344 volts if that makes sense.
When running prime95 all 8 cores it never goes over 1.33volts So I am not to sure what is going on :/

I am running latest BIOS for the Asus Crosshair Formula-Z
Screen shots can be uploaded to help making my OC stable but I am at work so they may have to wait.

Thanks for reading hope someone can help










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _Overclock Time_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Recommended Settings up to 5.0Ghz.
> M5A97 Users Please see the M5A97 Notes
> 
> 
> Spoiler: RECOMMENDED SETTINGS
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
> DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
> CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks)
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Current Capability 130%
> Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
> C1E - Disabled
> SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled
> 
> ****The power saving features should be disabled until you find your stable overclock. Then feel free to re-enable them to benefit from power savings*
> 
> 
> 
> _Read all the steps before proceeding_
> 
> 
> In the BIOS, set the Recommended Settings. Then Save and Exit.
> _Do not adjust the CPU Manual Voltage, or CPU Ratio yet._
> 
> Back in the BIOS, scroll to CPU Manual Voltage and Manually Set it to whatever value it shows for your CPU. _They all vary_
> 
> You need to find the Max OC you can get at the stock voltage so move to CPU Ratio and adjust it up.
> 
> _Most Piledriver CPUs will run an extra 400-500Mhz on Stock Voltages_
> _Most Bulldozer CPUs will run an extra 700-800Mhz on Stock Voltages_
> 
> Exit and Save changes, and boot into your Operating System.
> 
> Load and run Prime95 Small FFT for 10 Minutes.
> If no Cores Fail, then increase another point on the CPU Ratio and run Prime95 again.
> If a Core Fails then increase the CPU Manual Voltage one point and run Prime95 again.
> If your system Freezes or BSOD, then reduce you CPU Ratio by one point and run Prime95 again.
> If your system Freezes or BSOD after increasing the CPU Ratio by one point then increase your CPU Manual Voltage by three points and run Prime95 again.
> 
> _(each run of Prime95 for this step will be 10 minutes on Small FFT's)_
> 
> When Overclocking, make sure to monitor temperatures. Once you have reached the thermal or voltage limits of your overclock (or just one you are happy with) Then it is time to run a full Prime test.
> 
> Full Prime Test = Custom Setting - using 75% of your ram for a minimum of 6-12 hours
> _this is just what I recommend. If you are happy with 2 hours of prime, that's fine_
> 
> If your system fails the Prime test, then increase the CPU Manual Voltage by one point and re-test. Or, if it passes, then enjoy your faster running CPU.
> Thermal and Voltage Limits for the CPU
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Click
> 
> 
> 
> *Thermal Limits*
> CPU Core - 62 Celsius
> CPU Socket - 72 Celsius
> 
> *Voltage Limits*
> - CPU Manual Voltage 1.55v


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> About the Guide
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> This Guide was created as a simplified method to Overclocking Bulldozer and Piledriver CPU's. I've listed the most important settings to change in order to reach stability, in order to take the guess work out.
> FSB Overclocking is not discussed, as it's not required with a Black Edition CPU. **But if you know about FSB Overclocking, you can just use what you learn here, and apply it to that method.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Overclock at your own Risk
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Software
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _Recommended Stress Tool is Prime95 Version 27.7 or newer_
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Known bugs and fixes:
> 
> 1. *Does not work on AMD Bulldozer processors. Fixed in gwnum 27.5 (there will not be a prime95 27.5).*
> 2. Length 1280K FFT crashes on Pentium 4s with 512K L2 cache or less. Fixed in 27.6.
> 3. Hyperthread detection is not working properly. Fixed in 27.6.
> 4. The 6K 2^N-1 and 8K, 10K, 12K, 16K 2^N+1 AVX FFTs are missing. Fixed in 27.6.
> 5. Some exponents above 536 million generate roundoff errors and incorrect results. Fixed in 27.6.
> 6. FFT crossover points need retuning. Many can be more aggressive, but a few need to be more conservative. Fixed in 27.6.
> 
> 
> 
> Temperature Monitoring
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> HW Monitor -
> _Package Temps, aka Core Temp (62C Max)_
> _CPU Temp, aka Socket Temp (70C Max)_
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Tweaker Settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Auto, Manual, DOCP
> CPU Ratio - Adjusts the CPU Clock Multiplier (CPU Multi x FSB = CPU Speed)
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disable in order to manually Overclock the CPU
> CPU Bus Frequency - A.K.A. FSB. This adjusts the base clock for, HTT, NB, CPU, DRAM.
> PCIe Bus Frequency - Defaults to 100, not recommended to change, as it may damage GPU/HDD.
> Memory Frequency - Adjust the Memory Divider. (DRAM Divider x FSB = DRAM Speed)
> CPU/NB Frequency - Adjust the CPU/NB Divider - Defaults to 2000-2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - Adjust the HT Link Divider - Defaults to 2600Mhz
> CPU Spread Spectrum - Disable - to increase overclock stability
> PCIe Spread Spectrum - Disable - to increase overclock stability
> EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
> CPU & NB Voltage - Offset and Manual Mode - Change to Manual Mode for Overclocking
> CPU Manual Voltage - ** Available under Manual Mode - Increase the CPU Voltage when increasing the CPU frequency.
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - ** Available under Manual Mode - IMC Voltage - Increase when overclocking memory - may require an increase when increasing CPU frequency.
> CPU VDDA Voltage - Default 2.5v. Higher setting 2.695v will stabilize voltages under load but increases temps. Lower setting 2.2v will lower temps.
> DRAM Voltage - Adjust the voltage for DRAM. Default 1.5v
> NB Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the North Bridge Chipset on the motherboard - Default 1.1v
> NB HT Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the Hyper Transport - Default 1.2v
> NB 1.8V Voltage - Adjust the voltage for the Chipset/CPU Multiplier. Higher multi requires more voltage
> SB Voltage - Adjusts the voltage for the South Bridge Default 1.1v
> 
> AI Tweaker Image - Recommended Settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DIGI+ Power Control & CPU Configuration
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> _Wiki: The AM3+ Socket offers improved power regulation and power quality specifications, including an increased maximum current support of 145 A versus 110 A._
> 
> DIGI+
> 
> CPU LLC - Adjust CPU LLC. Recommended - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Adjust CPU/NB LLC. Recommended - High (50%)
> CPU Current Capability - Sets the Maximum Current Support. Recommended 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - Sets the Maximum Current Support. Recommended 130%
> _Note: Raising the Maximum Current Support does not make the CPU draw more Current. It just allows it to scale properly with voltage, to prevent Overvolting. Watts = Volts x Amps_
> CPU Power Phase Control - Sets the Phase Control. Extreme helps stability, but increases thermals
> CPU Voltage Frequency - More testing required
> VRM Spread Spectrum - Enabled runs in reduced EMI Mode - Recommended Disable
> CPU Power Duty Control - Extreme gives better stability, but higher thermals. T-Probe tested to 4.7Ghz
> CPU Power Response Control - Recommended Auto
> CPU/NB Power Response Control -Recommended Auto
> CPU Power Thermal Control - 130 Tested to 4.7Ghz (not sure what this effects)
> DRAM Current Capability - Set higher Capability for higher frequencies - Recommended 130%
> DRAM Voltage Frequency - more testing required
> DRAM Power Phase Control - Extreme gives better stability but higher thermals. Recommend - Optimal
> Advanced Tab
> 
> Cool'n'Quiet - Always Enabled will lower frequency of Cores under load.
> Recommend - Always Disabled - or Always Enabled once your Overclock is fine tuned.
> C1E - Enhanced Halt State. Lowers Power Consumption - Recommend - Disabled while testing Overclock (Enabled - Once fine tuned)
> SVM - Virtual Machine - Recommend - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Effects Overclock. Recommend - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Recommended - Enabled - Prevents Throttling when Socket Temp gets high. (In some cases it may cause freezing - if this occurs its recommended to disable)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled - (Set to Auto once Overclock is fine tuned)
> DIGI+ & CPU Config Image
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ***Picture Requires updating to reflect Recommended Settings
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What to expect from your CPU Cooler
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tricks to Keep things Cool
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Whether you are using a closed loop water cooler or air cooling, here are some trick to lower temps even more.
> 
> You can use the Stock CPU Cooler fan, with some double sided foam tape and either stick the fan to the case, or stick it to the Close Loop Cooler block, so that it is positioned blowing down over the VRM heatsink.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another way to lower Socket and VRM Temps is to install a fan behind the motherboard so that it is blowing on CPU Socket. All the components link at the socket, so if you can move heat from it, it will help with overall cooling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DRAM Voltages and OC Stability
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> By using 1.5v or lower for DRAM voltage you can reduce the stress on the IMC to improve stability with overclocked settings.
> 
> Special thanks to DEUSXXX for testing
> POST
> 
> 
> 
> How to Apply Thermal Paste
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why it's just the Center of the IHS (Integrated Heat Spreader) that really matters, when applying Thermal Paste.
> 
> 
> *** Do not Delidd your FX CPU it's soldered.
> It's only meant to represent the size of the CPU Die.
> 
> 
> 
> M5A97 Notes
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> It seems that the LLC functions on some of the M5A97 Motherboards does not function as intended.
> If you run into stability issues and strange voltages using LLC, it's recommended to leave it set to Auto.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> 
> FSB & MISC Overclocking Section. (Sometimes offers fine tuning, but not required)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FSB Overclocking Recommended Ranges
> FSB - 230 to 300**
> **290 - 300+ may or may not work on your Motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VDDA Voltage - 2.5 vto 2.65v - increasing this voltage will improve system performance when increasing the FSB
> HTT/CPUNB Speeds - Linking these speeds when FSB Overclocking has shown performance increases. The suggested range is 2400-2500Mhz for both. (If possible, linking the DRAM speed in this range will also increase performance)
> PCIe - Manually set to 100Mhz
> Other than that, the settings for NB,HT Link, CPU, DRAM, will all be the same as when Multiplier Overclocking.
> 
> 
> 
> FSB OC - Things to Consider
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Because most things are affected by the FSB (Multi * FSB = Frequency) you need to take into consideration what will be effected.
> 
> CPU
> HTT
> CPU/NB
> DRAM
> So in simple terms, you just need to select the highest stable FSB speed that you can, which will give you your desired OC results.
> 
> Also, once you have your desired Overclock, within your safe voltage, you can also increase the FSB by 1 point at a time, until you have your max stable overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> Recommended FSB Ranges
> 
> FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Would you like to have great Multithreaded Performance as well as a lot better Single Core Performance?
> Do you also like to save on hydro?
> 
> Well then this might interest you.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With Turbo Enabled, increasing the FSB also increases the Turbo Frequency
> With Offset Voltage Mode you can fully utilize C'n'C and APM Mode
> I recommend to keep the offset voltages to Auto with the "+" using Ultra LLC on the CPU and Auto LLC on the CPU/NB.
> If you are going for an extreme difference between stock frequency and Turbo frequency, then you should increase the CPU Offset Voltage to Compensate
> _Example: 4.6Ghz with a Turbo of 5.6Ghz you might need an offset of +0.15v_
> 
> The higher you raise the FSB, the higher the Auto CPU and CPU/NB voltage will be set.
> As you can see from my pictures, for my system the best FSB speed was 233. This allowed me to run my ram near my spec of 1866Mhz and also allows me to stay within my thermal limits when Turbo engages.
> 
> The actual turbo listed is not what it will go to. The Turbo listed is the highest level of Turbo - on an FX8350 that would be 4.2Ghz, so a Multiplier of 21. The normal turbo that will run all 8 cores is 4.1Ghz so a Multiplier of 20.5, which will let me run 4.776Ghz with a 233FSB.
> Under a heavy load, the CPU will cycle between my set CPU Ratio and the Turbo Speed to run cooler. Or it will just stay at the set CPU Ratio - which is ~4.5Ghz
> 
> So using this method I will have a 17% increase in Single Threaded Performance and a 12.5% increase in Multithreaded Performance.
> With the power saving features I idle at 68W. (Full System)
> At full load 280W which is the same as a Manual 4.5Ghz Overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> UnOfficial Overclocking Method
> Based on a Theory: Testing done by Mr-McRaven Link to Testing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Recommended Settings
> ***Requires Fine Tuning with voltages.


----------



## jleslie246

Vcore sounds to low to me.


----------



## Mega Man

what you are experiencing is vdroop which is normal the larger the load is on the cpu


----------



## tobyshorkie

Hi, I just want to share my experience with oc the 8320. I got a 4130 before I used for testing before I got the 8320, the board is the formula z, The 4130 went well past 5 ghz easy. I then got an 8320, it started really hard to overclock this, it is paired with 770 sli, the psu is an 800watt thermaltake, Even pushing the voltages wont really make the system stable, I just used 4.1 since going up to 4.4 wont make any difference and just makes the system unstable, even if it runs stable with prime at 4.4 and 4.5, games will be choppy and fps would drop. So I ordered a 1300watt psu which was supposed to arrive today but apparently the ups guy didn't leave it in my doorstep, so what I did is I opened up another computer and powered the 770s with the other psu, it solved the framerate issue, and I pushed the cpu to 4.6 at 1.45volts. I could have tried higher but I would wait till I get the 1300watt psu, I want to say also that I tested the computer with an evga 750 psu and it did the same thing,,, I tested a 7970 also before and it was doing the same thing. I read some comments that using a 750 or 800 psu would be sufficient, but looking at my setup, it looks like it needed more than that.


----------



## Mega Man

i dont know nvidia power needs,

but i will say how is the quality of the output of the psu ? that will effect OCs !


----------



## tobyshorkie

I used a tt 800 bronze, and an evga 750


----------



## Mega Man

depending on model both may be bad for power supply quality


----------



## DigDeep

I heard that HPC can cause that problem.


----------



## BillyBonz

@EnjoyMuff

Make sure that you set the Load Line Calibration per the guide, disable turbo core, Cool 'n' Quiet, C1E,C6E. Test your cpu voltage on manual mode, input the voltage you are currently getting right now and try your 4.4Ghz target. If it loads the OS then run prime or IBT to test it, if you get BSOD go back to bios and manually increase the voltage. If you reach the OC you want but do not want to run your cpu at a high voltage. You can switch from manual to offset with the + sign. save and reset then go back to bios and see what voltage the motherboard gives you with offset mode on auto. Get the difference between your manual and offset voltage and input the difference. Once you match or come really close to your manual stable voltage with the offset voltage turn on cool 'n' quiet and C6E. Save and reset and load your OS. You will see that your CPU will make use of the power saving modes yet hit your overclock target when you need it.


----------



## BillyBonz

Well guys I was able to OC my FX 8150 to 4.6Ghz, this thread is awesome!!!









http://valid.canardpc.com/4ynq19


----------



## tobyshorkie

So I finally got the evga 1300g, before with the evga 750g and the thermaltake 800, I needed 1.46 just to get 4.5 and the system was erratic and unstable, benchmarks are erratic,,,,,, so with the 1300g the 8320 went up to 4.8 @ 1.43v, I bumped it up to 5ghz 1.46v, it would crash prime but would finish 3dmark, I don't want to bump up the voltage anymore just for the extra mhz until I finish the 420rad setup. I'll stick with the 4.8 @ 1.43 for the meantime, I think the h100 is not enough for long prime runs


----------



## tobyshorkie

I dropped the llc one notch, and temps went down by almost 10 degrees, I tried 5ghz again and jumped the vcore to 1.46, it still crashes prime the moment I load it, it will do 3dmark though, any tips to make to 5ghz without increasing the vcore more than 1.46, I really wanted to reach at least 5 but without pushing the vcore too much.


----------



## MrPerforations

hello forum,
just did some testing on my machine, all I did was incress the voltage to my cpu with no clock changes, odd because I got the same live screen hard locks as normal but the clock is stable, I don't know if this is down to psu or the heat, the psu is my main suspect as its a cheap no name emergency replacement, but makes for simple oc rules for the cpu, I could not get over 1.4v without a hard lock within 10 minutes.


----------



## M1kuTheAwesome

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobyshorkie*
> 
> I dropped the llc one notch, and temps went down by almost 10 degrees, I tried 5ghz again and jumped the vcore to 1.46, it still crashes prime the moment I load it, it will do 3dmark though, any tips to make to 5ghz without increasing the vcore more than 1.46, I really wanted to reach at least 5 but without pushing the vcore too much.


I'm quite sure that can't be achieved. 5GHz needs at least 1.5v from what I've seen. You can't excpect to achieve a high clock at random volts by poking BIOS settings all day. This chip has its limits.


----------



## tobyshorkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M1kuTheAwesome*
> 
> I'm quite sure that can't be achieved. 5GHz needs at least 1.5v from what I've seen. You can't excpect to achieve a high clock at random volts by poking BIOS settings all day. This chip has its limits.


Yeah, I think I'll stick with 4.8 @1.41 volts, I don't think its worth for me to push it to 1.5volts just to get 5, maybe if I had an 8350 it would have been possible.


----------



## Phi11ips

Hi all, I am currently trying to OC my FX 6200, and one problem I am experiencing is that I have one core that always require more Volts than any of the others to be stable. First of all I am wondering if this is normal? Secondly is there a way to have one core clocked lower than the others? I am running a Asus sabretooth FX990 R2.0 mobo.

Thanks


----------



## jleslie246

What settings? I'm running my fx6300 at 4.4GHz 24/7


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> What settings? I'm running my fx6300 at 4.4GHz 24/7


At what vcore under load?


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> At what vcore under load?


1.416Vcore


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> 1.416Vcore


Even mine does that. Max of 4440Mhz at 1.41v


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> 1.416Vcore


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Even mine does that. Max of 4440Mhz at 1.41v


I'm sure that rubbing it in his face, so to speak - is exactly what he wanted!

@jleslie246 - I'd say it's your CPU/NB or RAM more than likely. What is your CPU/NB frequency & Voltage?


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> I'm sure that rubbing it in his face, so to speak - is exactly what he wanted!
> 
> @jleslie246 - I'd say it's your CPU/NB or RAM more than likely. What is your CPU/NB frequency & Voltage?


I wasn't rubbing anything in his face. Funny part is with LLC set too regular with a vdroop to 1.368v i can get 4Ghz stable but when I use LLC Extreme I need 1.4v at load to get it stable.


----------



## jleslie246

I wasn't the OP on this subject. Phi11ips was. I was just answering a question.


----------



## jleslie246

IDK why you asked this?? I'm not having any problems with the FX6300

"@jleslie246 - I'd say it's your CPU/NB or RAM more than likely. What is your CPU/NB frequency & Voltage?"


----------



## xLPGx

Had alot of issues getting my 8320 stable at anything higher than 4.2. Followed this thread and now sitting at a nice and stable 4.4. Thanks! Think my voltage is low or high for 4.4? Anything under that is unstable. Vcore set to 1.38 but drops to 1.356 in stresstest.
http://valid.x86.fr/c293xi


----------



## acheleg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Even mine does that. Max of 4440Mhz at 1.41v


it is a known phenomenon for 1 of the cores to be more voltage-hungry during an overclock- with my 750k, it is always core 1 (0-3) that glitches in prime 95, when i exceed 4 ghz on less than 1.37 volts. the inquiries into setting individual frequencies for each core have been around since the first phenom quads were released. generally, it is very hard on the north bridge when you adjust too many frequencies and multi's to achieve an overclock, thus, necessitating a nb overvolt and a nb cooling solution- all of which could be avoided by either sticking to a lower overclock, or simply getting a better cooling solution for the cpu.


----------



## Melcar

Well, color me impressed. Just finished getting my 8320 stable at 4.4GHz with my new Sabertooth. Using the recommended Digi+ settings in the guide with a +0.025 vcore offset (1.392-1.404v under heavy full load). Similar speed and vcore settings on my 970 board would result in 75*C core and +80*C socket temps. Now I'm seeing 68-70*C core and 70-73*C socket (same cooling setup).


----------



## TheLandstander

Does anyone know if enabling SVM gives a performance hit under non-virtualization conditions?

To be specific, I want to run Windows XP Mode under Win7. Enabling SVM should improve performance, but I don't want to enable that CPU feature if everything else takes a hit when I'm not using XP Mode.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Does anyone know if enabling SVM gives a performance hit under non-virtualization conditions?
> 
> To be specific, I want to run Windows XP Mode under Win7. Enabling SVM should improve performance, but I don't want to enable that CPU feature if everything else takes a hit when I'm not using XP Mode.


AFIK it doesn't affect performance but are you actually setting up a VM or just running a software in XP mode? SVM is to aid with Virtual Machines.


----------



## acheleg

if svm is anything like cpu virtualization, it many not play well with an overclock. otherwise, it shouldnt hurt the overall system performance


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Does anyone know if enabling SVM gives a performance hit under non-virtualization conditions?
> 
> To be specific, I want to run Windows XP Mode under Win7. Enabling SVM should improve performance, but I don't want to enable that CPU feature if everything else takes a hit when I'm not using XP Mode.


yes it does but nor much !


----------



## TheLandstander

SVM = Secure Virtual Machine, a virtualization technology by AMD.
Microsoft recommends (and possibly requires it, I'm still a bit unclear, but it should help performance) when running Windows XP Mode. 'XP Mode' is a full XP installation in a window run under Windows Virtual PC software.

It sounds silly, but if it allows 64-bit chips to run 16-bit software (and anything else that you use that doesn't play well with Windows 7 or 8).

Thanks for the answers, all, now I'm considering doing a quick burn retest to make sure it isn't an issue.


----------



## xLPGx

How far can the socket temp go? Currently sitting at exactly 72 (said to be the max) under stress but I do wanna go further in my overclocking. Is something like 75-80 fine for a while when stresstesting?


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xLPGx*
> 
> How far can the socket temp go? Currently sitting at exactly 72 (said to be the max) under stress but I do wanna go further in my overclocking. Is something like 75-80 fine for a while when stresstesting?


Most go with a rule of thumb that 10°C over your Max Core Temp. is 'safe' (also most board throttle around the 80-85°C region).

AMD recommends a safe core temp of 70°C as of a month or so ago.


----------



## tobyshorkie

I added a fan that I got from stock cpu heatsinks on the back of the socket and it helped, my mobo have a heatplate on the back of the vrms and it gets some air also, it lowered overall temps


----------



## Denroth

interesting


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> Most go with a rule of thumb that 10°C over your Max Core Temp. is 'safe' (also most board throttle around the 80-85°C region).
> 
> AMD recommends a safe core temp of 70°C as of a month or so ago.


As in previously thought to be 62°C and AMD is saying 70°C? 8 degrees is a big bump from what we were limiting to.

...or is AMD referring to socket temperature, as in we've been estimating 2 degrees too much?


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> As in previously thought to be 62°C and AMD is saying 70°C? 8 degrees is a big bump from what we were limiting to.
> 
> ...or is AMD referring to socket temperature, as in we've been estimating 2 degrees too much?


No AMD has come out and said that a Max Core Temperature of 70°C is just dandy. Think of it that AMD have more than likely had a 83XX running for a long time @ said temperature. Keep it under 70°C on the Cores and you'll be fine. That in turn should keep your socket temps under their limit!

You can download AMD Overdrive here: www.techspot.com/downloads/4645-amd-overdrive.html
and see for yourself


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Synister*
> 
> No AMD has come out and said that a Max Core Temperature of 70°C is just dandy. Think of it that AMD have more than likely had a 83XX running for a long time @ said temperature. Keep it under 70°C on the Cores and you'll be fine. That in turn should keep your socket temps under their limit!
> 
> You can download AMD Overdrive here: www.techspot.com/downloads/4645-amd-overdrive.html
> and see for yourself


Sounds good, now all we need to do is be able to run the sockets at 80 degrees and I can bump my overclock.


----------



## Piddeman

You mean celcius?

''degrees'' is not the same as celcius.


----------



## StryckNyne

70c yes


----------



## TheLandstander

I'm sorry? Are you arguing that temperature in Celsius in NOT measure in degrees?
Excuse me while I go chuckle.


----------



## Mega Man

No. He is saying you need to be more specific


----------



## TheLandstander

Oh. Yeah, sorry, I guess it was a language thing.

I'm pretty sure every temperature on this thread is in degrees C. I don't think any of us monitor or know the maximum temp in Fahrenheit.


----------



## Mega Man

Some people do report in f.


----------



## Stufi

Hello. I have my 8350 oc'd to a stable 4.5ghz at 1.375v and there is still some room to go higher. However I was looking at my motherboard's specs and found out it supports CPU's up to 140W and i calculated mine to be taking over 150W with my overclock. Should I be concerned about this or does this just mean a cpu at stock clock and voltage shouldnt go past this wattage or something?


----------



## jleslie246

I think you will need to keep it within spec. +10% should be ok though. What motherboard is it?


----------



## Stufi

The motherboard is Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0. I believe it should be quite good with overclocking, but if it really restricts my overclocking with the wattage limit, that just sucks :/ I hope I read it wrong from their site


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> The motherboard is Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0. I believe it should be quite good with overclocking, but if it really restricts my overclocking with the wattage limit, that just sucks :/ I hope I read it wrong from their site


If you look under CPU support you'll see this



You should be fine but definitely add some active VRM cooling and keep an eye on your temps (HWInfo64)


----------



## Stufi

So I shouldn't go any further with overclocking with this motherboard? I used the calculator from here http://www.extreme.outervision.com/tools.jsp to count the watts and it gave 157w with oc and with stock values it was 125w. I have had my cpu at 4.5ghz for about a month and i haven't had any problems and i have monitored cpu core and socket temps every day and they stay under control. Only under pirme95 test the socket temps go a little past 70 but core is about 55 and when gaming and doing other stuff the temps go nowhere near those numbers.


----------



## The Sandman

Not until you can lower that socket temp a bit.

With the cores running 55 tells me the HS is fine but add either more case fans and/or maybe even an old case fan mounted directly to the VRM's will help. It could also help prevent heat soak which can/will affect the socket temp.

Some add/mod a 120mm fan to the back of the mobo tray if the case doesn't have an opening for it.

The D14 should hold to 4.7 or so depending on ambient but you'll have to do some work to lower that socket temp before proceeding.


----------



## Stufi

I do have the fan from Coolermaster 212 evo which I was using before I got NH-D15, so I can try that with some double sided tape like OP mentioned. But just to make it clear; do I have to worry about the text in asus website stating that it "Supports CPU up to 140 W"? Because while it supports my cpu, it still goes to 157W when overclocked to 4500mhz.

E: When gaming, the socket temp goes to about 55 max, so it's nowhere near the 70 degrees it reaches with prime.


----------



## Piddeman

Hello! I wonder if you guy's think it is worth it to upgrade my _NH-D14_ to a _NH-D15_?

My temp now on the FX8350 is Core 56'3C and 73c on the sockel (Under heavy Prime95 Load, 20min run time, fans spins on full RPM (1300RPM)

Rooms temperatur is around 26c. (Summer heat)

Speed 4500mhz
Voltage 1,394 (max Peak)

Idle temp isnt irrelevant, tho my sensor on the cpu is broken (15c Idle temp)


----------



## MrPerforations

hello,
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Hello! I wonder if you guy's think it is worth it to upgrade my _NH-D14_ to a _NH-D15_? )


nope, get a full waterkit and it will be able to upgrade overtime and have better or silent cooling instead.


----------



## Piddeman

Custom water loop with a 360 radiator?

There are no AIO who beats N15 sound/Performance what I've seen on the tests =/


----------



## MrPerforations

there is aio's but no new waterblocks for new cpu's and gpu's?
and why not get a complete kit?
I got the h100, but my mounts in my case are 140mm mounts, I could have just changed the radiator and not have a h100 and now i'm looking at a full kit, plus the temps seemed sad with the h100 in the same case as a zalman performa?, odd.
oh and the volume settings on the h100 stock fans are horrific,
the zalman won on sound and it was 3c difference ...


----------



## jleslie246

IMO if you are only overclocking to 4.5GHz you are probably better off leaving it at stock settings with turbo up to 4.4GHz. Run some benchmarks if you want to see the difference. I never saw much with mine until I pushed it to 4.8-5.1GHz range. Your motherboard is decent, but isn't a strong overclocking board like the ROG and Sabertooth boards. I am sure your setup runs games just fine with the 770 and single monitor. Enjoy your system!









If you do want to keep overclocking with it. Watch your vrm and cpu temps at gaming load (not prime). The 157watts is a bit over the +/-10% of the max wattage speced by ASUS. Generally speaking engineers allow for 10% tolerances in design. I have an EE degree and have a few years experience in the field. This is how I was taught to design. You could always upgrade that mb too.


----------



## Piddeman

Good tip!

The thing is that, in Battlefield 4 my cpu is'nt not strong enough to run the game at Ultra [email protected] No AA.

I will se if I got some FPS drops now when the cpu is at 4,0ghz and turbo up to 4,4ghz like you suggested.

EDIT: I tested Bf4 with the [email protected] and turbo up to 4400mhz, and it seems that the cpu does not bottleneck my GPu's







But I will put 2 50mm fans on the vrm heat sink to lower the temp a bit on that.

my temp on the sockel is now 61c under some play time and 3d mark 11 tests.


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> IMO if you are only overclocking to 4.5GHz you are probably better off leaving it at stock settings with turbo up to 4.4GHz. Run some benchmarks if you want to see the difference. I never saw much with mine until I pushed it to 4.8-5.1GHz range. Your motherboard is decent, but isn't a strong overclocking board like the ROG and Sabertooth boards. I am sure your setup runs games just fine with the 770 and single monitor. Enjoy your system!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you do want to keep overclocking with it. Watch your vrm and cpu temps at gaming load (not prime). The 157watts is a bit over the +/-10% of the max wattage speced by ASUS. Generally speaking engineers allow for 10% tolerances in design. I have an EE degree and have a few years experience in the field. This is how I was taught to design. You could always upgrade that mb too.


I would really like to take the maximum performance out of my processor, but thats just gonna raise the watts even higher, right? And sadly, my motherboard doesnt seem to report VRM temps, so all i have is CPU core and socket and again, they are completely under control. I just looked inside my case and the NH-D15 takes a lot of space so im not sure i can fit a fan on top of the VRMs. One thing i guess i could do is put a fan behind the motherboard, but sadly there are no air intake holes on that side of the case, but maybe it would still help cool it a little? The reason why i want to overclock this processor is that im planning on buying a GTX 870 or 880 later on this year and im guessing the FX 8350 will be bottlenecking that card so im just trying to even it up a little. Then later on next year i will be upgrading my motherboard and getting a new intel processor. I hope that makes sense, im not really an expert when it comes to this stuff. Maybe it would make more sense to upgrade the motherboard and processor first.


----------



## Piddeman

Im kinda into the http://www.coolermaster.com/cooling/cpu-liquid-cooler/nepton-280l/

Would this be a proper upgrade from my NH-D14 to lower my Sockel temp?

I have already put a 80mm fan behind the mobo so the sockel gets fresh air direcly onto it. It only lower the temp with 1c or barley nothing at all.


----------



## Johan45

This lowered my temps the most on my M5A99 , little 50mm fan held on with double sided tape. Getting an AIO will only make socket temps worse since there's less airflow around the VRM then.


The next best thing was to get a motherboard more suited to running an 8 core cpu.


----------



## Piddeman

I have done that







And put some heatsink on the vrm back of the mobo. Then I will stick with my Nh-D14 for now









Do you guys think an old (2 years old) *Corsair TX 750W M 80+ Bronze* is enough for my setup?

I had this problem a while now. Iam playing bf4 a time...suddenly all my fps drops from 70(Vsync on) to 25-50 and I tab out and checks whats wrong...CPU/GPu1/GPu2 is down to 50% usage, and my psu feels hot.

I have looked at this psu *EVGA Supernova G2 850W, 80+ Gold*, would that be enough to feed my PC with enough power under full load?

//PS I have all my components Stock-clock at this moment.

Sry for my grammar!


----------



## Axel_74

Great guide thank you .


----------



## Stufi

I placed a fan on the socket too and wow, socket temps went down by 10 degrees under prime load! Now I just wish i could monitor VRM temps, but I guess I could go higher with my overclock now?


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> I have done that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And put some heatsink on the vrm back of the mobo. Then I will stick with my Nh-D14 for now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you guys think an old (2 years old) *Corsair TX 750W M 80+ Bronze* is enough for my setup?
> 
> I had this problem a while now. Iam playing bf4 a time...suddenly all my fps drops from 70(Vsync on) to 25-50 and I tab out and checks whats wrong...CPU/GPu1/GPu2 is down to 50% usage, and my psu feels hot.
> 
> I have looked at this psu *EVGA Supernova G2 850W, 80+ Gold*, would that be enough to feed my PC with enough power under full load?
> 
> //PS I have all my components Stock-clock at this moment.
> 
> Sry for my grammar!


That 750 should be enough depending on how high you overclock is on the cards. I have heard they can pull close to 300watts each when oc'd. So a heavy OC on the cards and oc'd cpu could be getting close to the limit. But typically when you overload a PSU the whole system will just shut down not a FPS drop.
If you want to test your PSU I'd run unigine heave in a loop and P95 blend at the same time if that goes without a hitch then your psu is fine and it's most likely just the game or driver conflict with the game,.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I placed a fan on the socket too and wow, socket temps went down by 10 degrees under prime load! Now I just wish i could monitor VRM temps, but I guess I could go higher with my overclock now?


You could try and touch them







If they are too hot to touch they are over 60 degrees. My Sabertooth gives a warning when they reach 80 degrees. If they are too hot, point a fan at them


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> You could try and touch them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If they are too hot to touch they are over 60 degrees. My Sabertooth gives a warning when they reach 80 degrees. If they are too hot, point a fan at them


No way I'm sticking my hand in there when its running!


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> No way I'm sticking my hand in there when its running!


Why wouldn't you? Just be careful and only touch the vrm heatsink.


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Why wouldn't you? Just be careful and only touch the vrm heatsink.


It's such a narrow area because of my cooler.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> It's such a narrow area because of my cooler.


Might be time for one of these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16896268001


----------



## Piddeman

I took away my second HD7950 and all my gaming problems went away...Now I got 70fps all the time in bf4 ([email protected]) Damn crossfire sucks...

Crossfire is only good for benchmarking...Nothing else.


----------



## Mega Man

HAHAHAHAHAHA yea... no

2 quadfire systems both work spectacularly, one 7970-8350, one 290x-3930k

you are running with a motherboard only capable of x8-x8 what did you think was going to happen ???

in 4way CFX not as big of a deal x8 x8 x8 x8 = ok

but 2way??? big big big difference.

dont choose budget components and expect enthusiast results.

you want good CFX you need to get a board with x16-x16 for 2way cfx

and yes, CFX is enthusiast level

wont even get into the fact your starving your cards for power....


----------



## Piddeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> HAHAHAHAHAHA yea... no
> 
> 2 quadfire systems both work spectacularly, one 7970-8350, one 290x-3930k
> 
> you are running with a motherboard only capable of x8-x8 what did you think was going to happen ???
> 
> in 4way CFX not as big of a deal x8 x8 x8 x8 = ok
> 
> but 2way??? big big big difference.
> 
> dont choose budget components and expect enthusiast results.
> 
> you want good CFX you need to get a board with x16-x16 for 2way cfx
> 
> and yes, CFX is enthusiast level
> 
> wont even get into the fact your starving your cards for power....


How come in benchmarks I got really nice score, but ingame results the crossfire sucks. And I'm not alone with the problem









8x pci-e vs 16x pci-e is not so big difference..around 1-3fps top at most.

So yea, crossfire sucks.

And PSU was enough to feed my componets according to my electricity meters after all. 630W at its peak.

Anyway...My PC work now like a charm. No super microstutters och lagg frezes in Battlefield 4







So I'm happy.


----------



## Mega Man

well. i ran a x750, and i get far better scores with a second psu ( at the time ) wont even get into gaming.

1-3 fps is not the same as bandwidth needed.

but go ahead, and live in your delousions, there is a reason you wont post that in the 83xx club, as several of us in there run 2-3-and 4way cfx and would shoot you down

i push 120-200 fps with no microstutter ( which is an inherent issue mind you of 2way cfx/sli { also why frame pacing was made } and usually can be solved with 3 or 4 way ) in EYEFINITY

budget components = budget results


----------



## Piddeman

I dont know...It seems that it is you who lives fantasy world..I go after test results and my own results.

Yes I got low budget (Thats why I go with AMD) Yet it is high for AMD...

Funny is I got very nice fps with one GPU in Bf4. 70fps all the time with Vsync on. [email protected], so I'm happy with it







2x gpu is a no go in Battlefield 4. Unless you have a mobo for 600£ according to you..Not so great deal if you ask me...

Anyway, I added some fans on my VRM heatsink and my socket temp got lowered 15c..I was surprised that it affects the temperature socket so much.


----------



## Cotsios

Hello guys,
I have an AMD FX8350 for about 1.5 years.
I tested it lately on prime95 (Running Blend test) on stock clocks (default settings) and a core of the cpu fails.
My pc is watercooled CPU and GPU, with a 360 rad and a D5 pump.
I also thing that I expirience hight temps.

Do you guys thing that my chip is defective?

I would like to add that I have tried to OC it but I had hight temps 62+ on 4.5GHz.
Motherboard is an ASUS M5A99X R2.
Ram 16GB Corsair Vengeance.
GPU EVGA GTX 670 Nvidia

Please let me know your thoughts.

Tanks a lot


----------



## Piddeman

Turn of energi saving (EPU)

I got core failure too in Prime97 if I got EPU on auto or enable.


----------



## Cotsios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Turn of energi saving (EPU)
> 
> I got core failure too in Prime97 if I got EPU on auto or enable.


I see ok thanks I will give it a try.


----------



## crastakippers

Hi,

this is a great guide. I am trying to OC my FX8320. Could someone please help me better understand some of the temp readings from hwinfo. I'm using a sabertooth 990fx. Hopefully my sig includes the details. I have marked the three temp values I am currently concerned with.

1. The first value (CPU[#0] is this the AMD calculated value and shows an accurate reading of my cpu core once above 45 celcius? This reaches 52 celsius after 50 minutes prime95 small ffts. Is this safe?

2. The second value (VCore-1). I am not sure about this but it reaches 66 celsius under the same test.

3. CPU. Is this the mother board socket temp? It reaches 62 celsius

thank you all.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> this is a great guide. I am trying to OC my FX8320. Could someone please help me better understand some of the temp readings from hwinfo. I'm using a sabertooth 990fx. Hopefully my sig includes the details. I have marked the three temp values I am currently concerned with.
> 
> 1. The first value (CPU[#0] is this the AMD calculated value and shows an accurate reading of my cpu core once above 45 celcius? This reaches 52 celsius after 50 minutes prime95 small ffts. Is this safe?
> 
> 2. The second value (VCore-1). I am not sure about this but it reaches 66 celsius under the same test.
> 
> 3. CPU. Is this the mother board socket temp? It reaches 62 celsius
> 
> thank you all.


1. This is indeed the core temperature value. Max safe temperature is 70C according to AMD Overdrive, but try to keep them below 62C.

2. This is the VRM temperature. AI Suite will give a warning when this reaches 80C. Point a fan at the heatsink to keep them nice and cool.

3. This is the socket temp. Try to keep this below 70C as well.

Btw I can't see your rig in your sig.


----------



## crastakippers

Thank you for the very fast reply and information regarding the safe temps. It sounds like I might be able to let my tests run longer now. I do have the stock CPU HSF double sided stickied and blowing at the vrms.

I'l take a look at my sig. And thank you once again. Much appreciated.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Thank you for the very fast reply and information regarding the safe temps. It sounds like I might be able to let my tests run longer now. I do have the stock CPU HSF double sided stickied and blowing at the vrms.
> 
> I'l take a look at my sig. And thank you once again. Much appreciated.


No problem, that's what we're here for. We have the same motherboard, so if you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask me here or in a pm


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cotsios*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I have an AMD FX8350 for about 1.5 years.
> I tested it lately on prime95 (Running Blend test) on stock clocks (default settings) and a core of the cpu fails.
> My pc is watercooled CPU and GPU, with a 360 rad and a D5 pump.
> I also thing that I expirience hight temps.
> 
> Do you guys thing that my chip is defective?
> 
> I would like to add that I have tried to OC it but I had hight temps 62+ on 4.5GHz.
> Motherboard is an ASUS M5A99X R2.
> Ram 16GB Corsair Vengeance.
> GPU EVGA GTX 670 Nvidia
> 
> Please let me know your thoughts.
> 
> Tanks a lot


please add your rig in rigbuilder ( see my sig )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Thank you for the very fast reply and information regarding the safe temps. It sounds like I might be able to let my tests run longer now. I do have the stock CPU HSF double sided stickied and blowing at the vrms.
> 
> I'l take a look at my sig. And thank you once again. Much appreciated.
> 
> 
> 
> No problem, that's what we're here for. We have the same motherboard, so if you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask me here or in a pm
Click to expand...

yep !


----------



## JR88

finally got fx 4300/ msi-760gma-p34 going again after reinstall of windows had bunch crazy chipset/ audio/driver literal hell, still not sure what the hell it was some crazy driver conflict.......dumped that crappy round/fin zalman heatsink put on a thermalright true spirit, just really amazed at just how bad that zalman was I swear an immediate drop of 20-30 degrees like no joke......now to oc and see if I can burn up the VRMS on this board xD


----------



## Liranan

Got my new FX8320. So far testing OC and got it to 4.2 on stock voltage. Don't know if it's stable yet as I don't want to test it, going to play ME 3 a little then shall continue.

The one certain thing is that this H70 is terrible.


----------



## crastakippers

Following the guide I have my 8320 at 4.5Ghz. I'm using a CM 212 evo, stock CPU fan on the VRMs and one on the back of the motherboard at the socket. I ran 10 IBTs on very high, and a small FFT and max temps were all inside safe limits.
I then ran a prime blend test for 8 hours, nothing failed but my core #4 only completed 34 torture tests while the others range from 52 to 65 tests completed. Does this mean I have something wrong with my #4 core? Unfortunately I have only ran a blend test this long at 4.4Ghz and I did not compare the number of tests, so I do not know if there is a pattern.

I'm guessing its possible #4 core could slow overall CPU performance of some programs? Could I disable this core and perform comparative bench marks?

I appreciate your help. Thank you.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Following the guide I have my 8320 at 4.5Ghz. I'm using a CM 212 evo, stock CPU fan on the VRMs and one on the back of the motherboard at the socket. I ran 10 IBTs on very high, and a small FFT and max temps were all inside safe limits.
> I then ran a prime blend test for 8 hours, nothing failed but my core #4 only completed 34 torture tests while the others range from 52 to 65 tests completed. Does this mean I have something wrong with my #4 core? Unfortunately I have only ran a blend test this long at 4.4Ghz and I did not compare the number of tests, so I do not know if there is a pattern.
> 
> I'm guessing its possible #4 core could slow overall CPU performance of some programs? Could I disable this core and perform comparative bench marks?
> 
> I appreciate your help. Thank you.


Turn off the Asus EC sensor in hwinfo because that causes high CPU usage, which explains the 4th core completing tests slower.


----------



## crastakippers

OK Great! I will try another blend test tonight with EC disabled now that I know that those temps are fine. I am quite surprised I have got to this OC to be honest.









Thanks again for the help.


----------



## Mega Man

i have no issues using EC, i dont know who started this , but i have seen several people say this and several disagree

it does use some CPU but not much, i dont know where you get "high cpu useage"

failed core means more volts,

slower cores means background processes are at work


----------



## LostParticle

Hello, nice to meet you all









I've followed the "FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds" section of this guide but it fails on Prime95, Custom, 75% ram, after approximately 4 hours. When testing this specific profile for stability should I have the power settings in the BIOS enabled or disabled?

I tried with them enabled - as shown in the screenshot below- and it gave me an ILLEGAL SUMOUT error after approx. four hours.
What do I need to do to pass the stress test?

Thanks









note: the screenshot is from the first post of this guide and not from my own system.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i have no issues using EC, i dont know who started this , but i have seen several people say this and several disagree
> 
> it does use some CPU but not much, i dont know where you get "high cpu useage"
> 
> failed core means more volts,
> 
> slower cores means background processes are at work


This is with Asus EC enabled:



Disabled:


----------



## crastakippers

Sorry Linus, I was unable to try another blend run last night to confirm your information. I do see a jump (more of a pulse) in CPU usage of around 15% when EC is enabled. I will try the blend tonight.


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> This is with Asus EC enabled:
> 
> 
> 
> Disabled:


Is this the Linus from Linus Tech Tips ?


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Is this the Linus from Linus Tech Tips ?


Yes it is! Only the less rich Belgian version


----------



## jason387

Oh. You entered in for the competition at blackholetec, right??


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> This is with Asus EC enabled:
> 
> 
> 
> Disabled:


Where did you say that setting was located? Is that in the BIOS or something that ASUS's tools installs?

@LostParticle - You will need to have the Power Settings on, otherwise the CPU can't shut down cores to turbo others. When it does this it does need to draw more power, so you may need to increase voltage above your base stable overclock.

I assume you are using offset voltage, you must have a + or - value (not auto) or it can run a bit out of control.

I will say that I also enable C6, because most of the complaints associated with this causing problems have long since been patched in Windows 7 and up. I don't believe there is any performance loss from using it (can any one else comment?).

I also keep SVM enabled, but that's because I use 'XP Mode' under Windows Virtual PC. But that's because I have some 16-bit software I occasionally want to run.


----------



## LostParticle

@TheLandstander

Thank you very much for your reply!

Below I post my BIOS settings, set after loading optimized defaults and rebooting. It was with these exact same settings - besides C1E which was disabled - that it has failed after 4 hours of Prime95, custom 75% ram.

Should I change something? What should I change to succeed?

Thank you!


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> @TheLandstander
> 
> Thank you very much for your reply!
> 
> Below I post my BIOS settings. It was with these exact same settings - besides C1E which was disabled - that it has failed after 4 hours of Prime95, custom 75% ram.
> 
> Should I change something? What should I change to succeed?
> 
> Thank you!


To be clear, I am far from an expert, but apparently not many people here use Turbo.
This post should help with regards to testing: http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/2670#post_22480158

My first thought is that you MUST set a voltage offset. On Auto it will adjust the voltage, sometimes terrifyingly high, when it needs more juice.
I'm not currently overvolting and I'm running at -.01875v which brings the non-Turbo voltage in just below stock, the Turbo to 1.38v, but under half load it peaks at 1.404v.
The BIOS won't reveal what the voltage is really peaking at, just what it is at idle (1.41v). You have to watch it under Windows with software while testing a single core.
Heck, an offset of +.006250 will usually give you a lower voltage than Auto.

The same goes for the CPU/NB voltage. I use -.006250v so it doesn't exceed stock. I also set a manual voltage on the CPU VDDA.

The second thing I would do, after you know your base speed and voltage are stable is to try manually lowering the Turbo multiplier.
The FSB is overclocking as well. 21x233 is giving you 4.9ghz under half load. (You can't tweak the full load multiplier in BIOS.) Anyway, if you don't want to go higher with the voltage, back the Turbo down 0.5x at a time and see if it stabilizes. Nothing wrong with a 4.8ghz Turbo.


----------



## Mega Man

you dont need to use offset you can use manual, i prefer offset

in a bit i will post some suggestions


----------



## JR88

Asus BIOS way more user friendly/tweakable.....

I still finally got my fx 4300 to 5ghz at 1.4v on my msi-760gma-p34 though...sure as hell not through bios on that board though haha, further better cooling/heatsink did the trick, doesn't even break 50-55c half the time....

this board will blow up watch lol


----------



## LostParticle

Thank you all for your replies









I did not fully understand @TheLandstander's suggestions so I run the stress test again using the settings given at #2797 above. It has failed, of course. Here is the results.txt from Prime95.

results.txt 25k .txt file


@Mega Man
I am looking forward for your suggestions! I am relatively new to this so please tell me exactly where to go in BIOS and what to change. My feeling is that I am one click away from stability.

Thank you.

ps: when testing for stability with Prime I am using HWiNFO64's alerts. A few seconds or minutes after the stress test will start I am opening the Alerts tab and I am setting the following rule:

IF Total CPU usage < 99 then shutdown computer (shutdown.exe -s -t 10)

A similar alert is set for CPU (core) temp when required.

Then I am leaving the room. If the test will fail the computer will shut down, and the results.txt gets updated.


----------



## Mega Man

first why are you doing a FSB + multi?
second why is your dram at 1.615?
as you are new i would HIGHLY recommend multi only at first

disable turbo for now

DO NOT use auto for
Vcore CPU/NB

you will need your chip VID

to find it disable turbo, put everything on auto ( f5)

reboot and look at your cpu vcore

whether you are using manual or offset you need to know this

manual start there and bump up from there.

offset you just bump up the offset

ANYTHING BELOW please make sure you have a fan on your VRM and NB

NB to 1.2
cpunb +0.1v ( if using manual do some math ~ 1.2 )

LLC ultra to high
cpu/nb LLC - high

cpu current capability to 130
cpu current capability to 130
cpu phase control extreme
i enable vrm spread spectrum but it is not needed
cpu power duty control to the other option ( i always forget the other option )
cpu power response control ultra fast
cpu/NB power response control ultra fast
dram phase control extreme

again i can not stress this enough YOU MUST have active cooling on the VRM/NB !!!!!

for testing stability

shut off CNQ C1E C6 APM
if you want to keep them on

CNQ always enabled
C1E C6 HPC and APM enable

please note

APM throttles at ~ 40c CPU temp and 72c socket ( some mobos also throttle @ a certain wattage pull i do not think the sabberkitty does )

HPC shuts off ALL BUT 72c socket.

if your socket is hitting 72 and apm is on YOU WILL drop a core and fail prime or IBTAVX
you may need a fan on the back of your MOBO at the socket and VRMS !

you can use windows snippet tool to upload pics, dont attach them use the little pic of a little pic next to the paperclip to insert them

it looks like you are dropping a core to me either temps or volts, probably temps


----------



## crastakippers

I disabled ASUS EC and ran a p95 blend for 4 hours and 30 minutes. All cores performed an equal number of tests (+-1). No slow cores.

I seem to have hit the thermal limit of my air cooling. My 8320 is at 4.5Ghz, 1.4volts and core temp reaches 57 degrees max during prime. I can get to 4.6Ghz with a small bump in voltage but the temp rises to 63 degrees during prime. Do you think it would be worth investing in a closed loop cooler (H110) or am I pretty much near the max I can achieve. I know there are no guarantees but would appreciate oppinions if going water cooled would be worth it?

thanks.


----------



## JR88

probably need to be at more like 1.45v+, yeah you trying to get up there water is way to go.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Oh. You entered in for the competition at blackholetec, right??


Yes I did, why?


----------



## jason387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> Yes I did, why?


Cause I remember your entry. I'm a reviewer/admin at blackholetec.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jason387*
> 
> Cause I remember your entry. I'm a reviewer/admin at blackholetec.


Oh okay nice. Too bad I didn't win anything ;-)


----------



## jason387

We will be having many more competitions and there will be more prizes. We might even have a Black Hole Mayhem- Christmas Special


----------



## LinusBE

I look forward to it! My fx 8350 can do better than 4.8


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Below I post my BIOS settings, set after loading optimized defaults and rebooting. It was with these exact same settings - besides C1E which was disabled - that it has failed after 4 hours of Prime95, custom 75% ram.
> 
> Should I change something? What should I change to succeed?
> 
> Thank you!


PM returned
Hope it's of some help!


----------



## Piddeman

Why does the M5A99FX EVO R2.0 support the FX9-serie and the M5A99X EVO R2.0 does'nt? shoudnt the mobos almost be the same? Its 16/8 vs 16/16 on the Pci-e bus? thats seperate them?

Both mobos does take 140W cpu's and has 6+2 power phases. Same heat tolerance etc..

//Sry for my grammar.


----------



## JR88

no way you could overclock that high on a board like that though....


----------



## Piddeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JR88*
> 
> no way you could overclock that high on a board like that though....


I dont know if you mean me? But right now I have my cpu (FX8350) running at 4400mhz and turbo on 4700mhz stable









Cpu temp 54c max peak and the sockel 70c max peak (Prime95 burn in)

In Battlefield 4 sockel temp is max 60c and cpu around 49-50c.


----------



## Gregory14

is it safe to run FSB at 203? Main concern is to not burn out my GPU, I set Multi to 24, FSB to 203, and PCI to 100Mhz. Now running at 4.864

Its actually running cooler now, slightly.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> is it safe to run FSB at 203? Main concern is to not burn out my GPU, I set Multi to 24, FSB to 203, and PCI to 100Mhz. Now running at 4.864
> 
> Its actually running cooler now, slightly.


Manually setting the PCI to 100MHz was the correct move. Your GPU shouldn't see any issues due to raising the Ref Clock.

Many see slightly lower temps by running a FSB X Multi OC vs a Multiplier only OC.
You'll see larger gains in performance with a higher Ref Clock as well.

Takes more time and some research but very much worth the effort IMHO.


----------



## LostParticle

Hi guys!

Thank you all very much for your replies!

Unfortunately, I keep failing to achieve stability in this FSB + Turbo overclocking.

Leaving aside the reason I am attempting this particular overclocking method, allow me to describe my steps.

Initially I've tested with the settings given at post #2797. After failing with those I have changed CPU/NB Load Line Calibration from "Auto" to "High". It failed. Then I've started to raise the CPU Offset Voltage incrementally, reaching 1.440V maximum value in HWiNFO64 during stress testing - 1.428V in the BIOS. It kept failing. My last attempt was last night when I returned the CPU Offset Voltage to "Auto" -perhaps this was a big mistake- and increased CPU/NB Offset voltage by 0.08750, reaching 1.25V. [As you probably know HWiNFO64 does not show CPU/NB voltage neither DIMM (dram) voltage, in real time, so I use AIDA64 Extreme to view these values when testing.] Well, it has failed again, after approximately six hours this time.

Today I will take my LAST attempt:
CPU/NB LLC : High
CPU Offset voltage: 0.087500 (1.464V in the BIOS)
CPU/NB Offset voltage: 0.087500 (1.25V in the BIOS)

I am always testing with Prime95 (v.28.5 build 2), custom-Blend, 12GB (or a bit more) of ram.
If it helps, the maximum frequency I see in HWiNFO64 in normal usage is 4816.7 MHz. During Prime95 it locks around 4.5GHz.

If anyone would like to comment on the above values before starting my stress testing, I'd appreciate it!

Why all this fuss and not simply giving up and attempting the good old Multiplier or FSB o/c?
For two reasons: I feel I am too close to stabilize it and it would be a pity to quit now, but most importantly because in my head this method seems ideal! Having a base frequency of 4.5GHz (in this example), I jump up to ~ 4.8GHz, whenever required! Perhaps I got it all wrong, however this is the reason I am trying it. Anyway, today it will be my LAST attempt. If it will fail again I will give up.

@Mega Man
I'm trying this method for the reasons stated just above. I have set my DRAM voltage at 1.615V because when I set it at 1.6V, as G.Skill recommends for my memory kit, it does never reach this value, neither in the BIOS nor in AIDA64 where I check the DRAM voltage, in real time. It always stays below 1.6V, somewhere around 1.584V or something. My rig shows that I already have a fan on the VRM, as well as a backplate fan. I used that little picture to upload my screenshots, I have not found the way to put them in a spoiler yet, though. Thank you very much for the rest of your suggestions but at this moment I am struggling for FSB + Turbo O/C stability, and not for some other overclocking method. Soon though I will!









@The Sandman
I deeply appreciate your amazing message!! I will definitely study it!! Soon I will attempt a second method: 4.8Ghz strictly FSB overclocking. I am looking forward to your suggestions!

Finally, since I've never provided any temperature values, let me say that I live in southern Europe where the ambient temperatures this period are around 30 Celsius. I never had any problems with the maximum temperatures in all these stress tests. My guess is that I can safely stress test for up to 4.8GHz with my system's cooling.

Thank you!


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> I disabled ASUS EC and ran a p95 blend for 4 hours and 30 minutes. All cores performed an equal number of tests (+-1). No slow cores.
> 
> I seem to have hit the thermal limit of my air cooling. My 8320 is at 4.5Ghz, 1.4volts and core temp reaches 57 degrees max during prime. I can get to 4.6Ghz with a small bump in voltage but the temp rises to 63 degrees during prime. Do you think it would be worth investing in a closed loop cooler (H110) or am I pretty much near the max I can achieve. I know there are no guarantees but would appreciate oppinions if going water cooled would be worth it?
> 
> thanks.


What case do you have? If you have the room, you could look for a "custom loop in a box" like alphacool sells. Preferably one with a 360 rad. They cost more than an aio, but they perform better and they are expandable. A swiftech h220x is also an option.

I have an h100i and I can reach 4.9 GHz with it. Temps are around 63 during prime.


----------



## crastakippers

I have a fractal R4 define case. I just did some quick research into the alpha cool kits. They look great but are a little pricey. I might become upset if I buy one of those and I find my chip hits a brick wall at 4.6 Ghz.







I was looking at the H100i and H110 and will take a look at the swiftech.
What I am trying to balance is whether I really can expect much more from 8320 or if I am just getting greedy. If I stick with 4.5Ghz then my current cooling is fine just so long as the cpu fan stuck on the back of the MB remains in place. But this OCing thing is quite addictive and I really would like to get closer to 5.0 if possible. What to do?


----------



## Gregory14

When I first started overclocking my 8320, i followed this guide, it may help.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nsanESSKfE


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> I have a fractal R4 define case. I just did some quick research into the alpha cool kits. They look great but are a little pricey. I might become upset if I buy one of those and I find my chip hits a brick wall at 4.6 Ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking at the H100i and H110 and will take a look at the swiftech.
> What I am trying to balance is whether I really can expect much more from 8320 or if I am just getting greedy. If I stick with 4.5Ghz then my current cooling is fine just so long as the cpu fan stuck on the back of the MB remains in place. But this OCing thing is quite addictive and I really would like to get closer to 5.0 if possible. What to do?


That case isn't really good for a custom loop. If you want to reach 5 GHz you will need a custom loop. What you have to do all depends from the amount of money you want to spend. With an aio you can do a lot, but a custom loop performs better and is more expandable. It just costs a lot.


----------



## Mega Man

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



imo skip the CLC and go full custom, if not H220x
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi guys!
> 
> Thank you all very much for your replies!
> 
> Unfortunately, I keep failing to achieve stability in this FSB + Turbo overclocking.
> 
> Leaving aside the reason I am attempting this particular overclocking method, allow me to describe my steps.
> 
> Initially I've tested with the settings given at post #2797. After failing with those I have changed CPU/NB Load Line Calibration from "Auto" to "High". It failed. Then I've started to raise the CPU Offset Voltage incrementally, reaching 1.440V maximum value in HWiNFO64 during stress testing - 1.428V in the BIOS. It kept failing. My last attempt was last night when I returned the CPU Offset Voltage to "Auto" -perhaps this was a big mistake- and increased CPU/NB Offset voltage by 0.08750, reaching 1.25V. [As you probably know HWiNFO64 does not show CPU/NB voltage neither DIMM (dram) voltage, in real time, so I use AIDA64 Extreme to view these values when testing.] Well, it has failed again, after approximately six hours this time.
> 
> Today I will take my LAST attempt:
> CPU/NB LLC : High
> CPU Offset voltage: 0.087500 (1.464V in the BIOS)
> CPU/NB Offset voltage: 0.087500 (1.25V in the BIOS)
> 
> I am always testing with Prime95 (v.28.5 build 2), custom-Blend, 12GB (or a bit more) of ram.
> If it helps, the maximum frequency I see in HWiNFO64 in normal usage is 4816.7 MHz. During Prime95 it locks around 4.5GHz.
> 
> If anyone would like to comment on the above values before starting my stress testing, I'd appreciate it!
> 
> Why all this fuss and not simply giving up and attempting the good old Multiplier or FSB o/c?
> For two reasons: I feel I am too close to stabilize it and it would be a pity to quit now, but most importantly because in my head this method seems ideal! Having a base frequency of 4.5GHz (in this example), I jump up to ~ 4.8GHz, whenever required! Perhaps I got it all wrong, however this is the reason I am trying it. Anyway, today it will be my LAST attempt. If it will fail again I will give up.
> 
> @Mega Man
> I'm trying this method for the reasons stated just above. I have set my DRAM voltage at 1.615V because when I set it at 1.6V, as G.Skill recommends for my memory kit, it does never reach this value, neither in the BIOS nor in AIDA64 where I check the DRAM voltage, in real time. It always stays below 1.6V, somewhere around 1.584V or something. My rig shows that I already have a fan on the VRM, as well as a backplate fan. I used that little picture to upload my screenshots, I have not found the way to put them in a spoiler yet, though. Thank you very much for the rest of your suggestions but at this moment I am struggling for FSB + Turbo O/C stability, and not for some other overclocking method. Soon though I will!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @The Sandman
> I deeply appreciate your amazing message!! I will definitely study it!! Soon I will attempt a second method: 4.8Ghz strictly FSB overclocking. I am looking forward to your suggestions!
> 
> Finally, since I've never provided any temperature values, let me say that I live in southern Europe where the ambient temperatures this period are around 30 Celsius. I never had any problems with the maximum temperatures in all these stress tests. My guess is that I can safely stress test for up to 4.8GHz with my system's cooling.
> 
> Thank you!






spoiler very easy, click the box that looks like a quote balloon in a comic type in the middle of the commands

another method is to highlight what you typed then click the balloon

the reason i never recommend people to start that way is n so you can learn your chip. when in multi there is ~ 3-5 voltages/settings to change and that can change actively.

when in FSB there is 10-20 depending on board,

FSB affects everything so you dont know what is failing,

multi is ONLY your clock so you know if that clock is stable,

FSB also has dead spots you have to overcome which differ from chip to chip and even same chip different boards


----------



## LostParticle

Hi again!

I have finally succeeded!
















All of the settings are given in my (few) previous posts. I always disconnect from the Internet when stress testing for stability and also I have the High Performance power plan in Windows 7. In the background I have only MSE and NVIDIA GeForce Experience running.

My results:

- Twelve hours of Prime95, custom-Blend test, 12GB of ram, room temperature = 30C

A few seconds before terminating the stress test.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Right after terminating the test


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It feels good, really good, that I have finally done it!









This is not the best I can get from my system, of course not, this might even be a "bad" O/C practice, but I wanted to achieve this because it seems ideal to me! I will test this for 72 hours with regular usage, perhaps I will raise VCore a bit - even though I don't think it's required- and then I will save it as "EVERYDAY-OK" !









@Mega Man
Yes, I understand you and I agree with you! Tomorrow I will follow the guide from the fist post, to find out my stock VCore, how far I can go with it, and I might try some Multi-O/C, as well ! I'd also like to ask you about the differences between your suggestions and the guide...

I would like your help, and @The Sandman, to FSB-O/C, too, though!

Thanks


----------



## Mega Man

believe it or not most come from this guide the rest is my experience


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LinusBE*
> 
> *That case isn't really good for a custom loop*. If you want to reach 5 GHz you will need a custom loop. What you have to do all depends from the amount of money you want to spend. With an aio you can do a lot, but a custom loop performs better and is more expandable. It just costs a lot.


You just saved me a bunch of money. Now I do not have to worry about a custom loop.









I think I probably go with a swiftech. I just have to check case compatibility. I believe there is a new version out the 220-x but I have not seen it available in Canada yet. Can I ask a couple more questions?

1. With a closed loop I guess I will still need a fan on the rear of the MB for the socket? Do you have additional cooling for the socket and vrms?

2. Do you know if there is a forum with comparative benchmarks for these chips. I would like to know if I am getting reasonable *physics* performance compared to others with same OC.

3. Is there anything else I can do to improve my *physics* performance. Will better memory, OCing my memory, trying an FSB OC help more? My memory is just basic Kingston 1333 stuff.

thanks again.


----------



## LinusBE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> You just saved me a bunch of money. Now I do not have to worry about a custom loop.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I probably go with a swiftech. I just have to check case compatibility. I believe there is a new version out the 220-x but I have not seen it available in Canada yet. Can I ask a couple more questions?
> 
> 1. With a closed loop I guess I will still need a fan on the rear of the MB for the socket? Do you have additional cooling for the socket and vrms?
> 
> 2. Do you know if there is a forum with comparative benchmarks for these chips. I would like to know if I am getting reasonable *physics* performance compared to others with same OC.
> 
> 3. Is there anything else I can do to improve my *physics* performance. Will better memory, OCing my memory, trying an FSB OC help more? My memory is just basic Kingston 1333 stuff.
> 
> thanks again.


1. Yes this will still be necessary. I have additional cooling on the rear of the MB, but not on the vrm's. Only when I stress test for long periods of time I point a fan at my vrm's.

2. Here you can find rankings of different benchmarks with different cpu's

3. I don't know how memory speed affects different benchmarks. I use Corsair Vengeance LP 1600 MHz memory.


----------



## LostParticle

Hi









I have started my efforts for the maximum O/C - using strictly the CPU Ratio- that the ambient temperatures will allow me. We have 30C here, right now.

I've started by using the guide of this thread with the only exception that from the beginning I have set CPU/NB LLC to "High" instead of leaving it to "Auto". CPU/NB was set at 1.25V, CPU VDDA was left to Auto. With these settings I have found out that:

- My stock CPU Offset voltage (VCore) is 1.296V, in the BIOS (with Turbo Core Disabled, of course)
- With this VCore value I can pass 10 minutes of Prime95 Small FFTs at 4.5GHz.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







After my first failure at 4.6 I applied @Mega Man 's suggestions, specifically:
* CPU Power Phase Control : Extreme
* CPU Power Duty Control : C. Probe current
* CPU Power response control : Ultra Fast
* CPU/NB Power response control : Ultra Fast
* Dram Phase control : Extreme

I had no particular reason to set these settings, I just wanted to try them. I have no idea though what most of them do, so I ask @Mega Man to explain to me: - Why are these settings better than those the guide suggests?

Anyway, with these new settings I continued.

- 4.6GHz requires VCore = 1.320V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs. Sorry, I don't have a screenshot for this one.

- 4.7GHz requires VCore = 1.356V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







- 4.8GHz requires VCore = 1.41250V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







- 4.9GHz requires VCore = 1.45625V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I haven't tried 5.0GHz due to the temperatures.

This evening I will attempt a stability test at 4.9. I am aware of the fact that it will require much more voltage to stabilize at this high frequency but I am willing to try. If the temperatures will not permit me the test I will try at 4.8.

My questions:

a) Why are Mega Man's settings -the ones I have used- better than the guide's?

b) The only setting I actually touched was the core voltage. Is there anything I could do, at 4.8 or 4.9, to achieve a lower VCore? Is there any other value I should change to achieve stability with less core voltage?

Thank you


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have started my efforts for the maximum O/C - using strictly the CPU Ratio- that the ambient temperatures will allow me. We have 30C here, right now.
> 
> I've started by using the guide of this thread with the only exception that from the beginning I have set CPU/NB LLC to "High" instead of leaving it to "Auto". CPU/NB was set at 1.25V, CPU VDDA was left to Auto. With these settings I have found out that:
> 
> - My stock CPU Offset voltage (VCore) is 1.296V, in the BIOS (with Turbo Core Disabled, of course)
> - With this VCore value I can pass 10 minutes of Prime95 Small FFTs at 4.5GHz.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After my first failure at 4.6 I applied @Mega Man 's suggestions, specifically:
> * CPU Power Phase Control : Extreme
> * CPU Power Duty Control : C. Probe current
> * CPU Power response control : Ultra Fast
> * CPU/NB Power response control : Ultra Fast
> * Dram Phase control : Extreme
> 
> I had no particular reason to set these settings, I just wanted to try them. I have no idea though what most of them do, so I ask @Mega Man to explain to me: - Why are these settings better than those the guide suggests?
> 
> Anyway, with these new settings I continued.
> 
> - 4.6GHz requires VCore = 1.320V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs. Sorry, I don't have a screenshot for this one.
> 
> - 4.7GHz requires VCore = 1.356V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - 4.8GHz requires VCore = 1.41250V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - 4.9GHz requires VCore = 1.45625V (in the BIOS) to pass 10' Small FFTs.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't tried 5.0GHz due to the temperatures.
> 
> This evening I will attempt a stability test at 4.9. I am aware of the fact that it will require much more voltage to stabilize at this high frequency but I am willing to try. If the temperatures will not permit me the test I will try at 4.8.
> 
> My questions:
> 
> a) Why are Mega Man's settings -the ones I have used- better than the guide's?
> 
> b) *The only setting I actually touched was the core voltage. Is there anything I could do, at 4.8 or 4.9, to achieve a lower VCore? Is there any other value I should change to achieve stability with less core voltage*?
> 
> Thank you


you are already low vcore for 4.9ghz most have to have 1.50v

this get sme thinking you should really do 20-30mins minimum on prime 11mins is never enough
dont wanna burst your bubble mate


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> you are already low vcore for 4.9ghz most have to have 1.50v
> 
> this get sme thinking you should really do 20-30mins minimum on prime 11mins is never enough
> dont wanna burst your bubble mate


No bubble, nothing like that.
As I already said: this was NOT a stability test! I am just following the guide from the first post of this thread, together with a few suggestions from another forum member. This evening, after approx. 4-5 hours, I will try the stability test, Prime95 Blend-custom, 12GB ram. If you mean that I should run Small FFTs more, well...okay, I can do that, but the guide says 10 minutes. On the other hand, Blend-custom will show me for sure the lack in core voltage in the first 15-20 minutes so, I think, it's the same.

Thanks for your answer , anyway


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> No bubble, nothing like that.
> As I already said: this was NOT a stability test! I am just following the guide from the first post of this thread, together with a few suggestions from another forum member. This evening, after approx. 4-5 hours, I will try the stability test, Prime95 Blend-custom, 12GB ram. If you mean that I should run Small FFTs more, well...okay, I can do that, but the guide says 10 minutes. On the other hand, Blend-custom will show me for sure the lack in core voltage in the first 15-20 minutes so, I think, it's the same.
> 
> Thanks for your answer , anyway


i think small fft's should have 20-30mins minimum, for me the temps dont change much after 30mins this is what i was meaning for you









i still think you got a good cpu there


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> i think small fft's should have 20-30mins minimum, for me the temps dont change much after 30mins this is what i was meaning for you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i still think you got a good cpu there


Thanks man!

We will see... after I will pass the stability stress test... By the way, you were right! I ran Small FFTs, at 4.9, with the previous settings and it failed after...12 minutes! Here is my new attempt:

VCore = 1.46250V


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I stopped it because the cores were reaching their thermal limits and because I have something to do. Anyway, as I see, I will not be able to stability stress test with these temperatures of 30C that we have here right now, so I will probably aim at 4.8GHz for the moment.

Ps: I am not a native English speaker.


----------



## crastakippers

I don't want to burst your bubble







.
But does it not depend on where your at with the overclock in terms of your cooling as to whether 10 or 30 minutes prime ffts raises temps and stability failure chances ? Is not ten minutes generally enough and then onto blends?

Me nana made the best Yorkshire pudding btw.


----------



## DigDeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thanks man!
> 
> We will see... after I will pass the stability stress test... By the way, you were right! I ran Small FFTs, at 4.9, with the previous settings and it failed after...12 minutes! Here is my new attempt:
> 
> VCore = 1.46250V
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stopped it because the cores were reaching their thermal limits and because I have something to do. Anyway, as I see, I will not be able to stability stress test with these temperatures of 30C that we have here right now, so I will probably aim at 4.8GHz for the moment.
> 
> Ps: I am not a native English speaker.


If you dont have fan on VRM heatsink, add it, it will lower cpu temperature.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> If you dont have fan on VRM heatsink, add it, it will lower cpu temperature.


Thank you, I do have a small fan there, check out my rig please. In general, I believe my cooling is behaving decently, especially if you'll take in consideration that I do not own an expensive custom made water cooling solution. It's just that the weather here this period is too hot. No problem, I will try 4.8.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have started my efforts for the maximum O/C - using strictly the CPU Ratio- that the ambient temperatures will allow me. We have 30C here, right now.
> 
> I've started by using the guide of this thread with the only exception that from the beginning I have set CPU/NB LLC to "High" instead of leaving it to "Auto". CPU/NB was set at 1.25V, CPU VDDA was left to Auto. With these settings I have found out that:
> 
> - My stock CPU Offset voltage (VCore) is 1.296V, in the BIOS (with Turbo Core Disabled, of course)
> - With this VCore value I can pass 10 minutes of Prime95 Small FFTs at 4.5GHz.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After my first failure at 4.6 I applied @Mega Man 's suggestions, specifically:
> 1* CPU Power Phase Control : Extreme
> 2* CPU Power Duty Control : C. Probe current
> 3* CPU Power response control : Ultra Fast
> 4* CPU/NB Power response control : Ultra Fast
> 5* Dram Phase control : Extreme
> 
> I had no particular reason to set these settings, I just wanted to try them. I have no idea though what most of them do, so I ask @Mega Man to explain to me: - Why are these settings better than those the guide suggests?
> 
> Anyway, with these new settings I continued.
> I haven't tried 5.0GHz due to the temperatures.
> 
> This evening I will attempt a stability test at 4.9. I am aware of the fact that it will require much more voltage to stabilize at this high frequency but I am willing to try. If the temperatures will not permit me the test I will try at 4.8.
> 
> My questions:
> 
> a) Why are Mega Man's settings -the ones I have used- better than the guide's?
> 
> b) The only setting I actually touched was the core voltage. Is there anything I could do, at 4.8 or 4.9, to achieve a lower VCore? Is there any other value I should change to achieve stability with less core voltage?
> 
> Thank you


ah i understand your question

1 "wakes" up your vrms so they work more often,- greatly increases VRM temps due to this
they "trade off" far more often

2 with the other setting, the vrms throttle at a preset temp ( from asus )

with this setting they only throttle at a certain current , which since is also set by asus

the sabertooth used to no boot @ 1.7 ( iirc ) + now i dont know if anyone has found the new limit

3-5

to my understanding these both allow the VRMS to switch duty at a very fast rate

also greatly increasing temps on vrms


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ah i understand your question
> 
> 1 "wakes" up your vrms so they work more often,- greatly increases VRM temps due to this
> they "trade off" far more often
> 
> 2 with the other setting, the vrms throttle at a preset temp ( from asus )
> 
> with this setting they only throttle at a certain current , which since is also set by asus
> 
> the sabertooth used to no boot @ 1.7 ( iirc ) + now i dont know if anyone has found the new limit
> 
> 3-5
> 
> to my understanding these both allow the VRMS to switch duty at a very fast rate
> 
> also greatly increasing temps on vrms


Thanks a lot for explaining!

From what I understood with your settings there is a BIG probability that the VRM temperatures will rise. Since those are represented in HWiNFO64 by the VCORE-1 and VCORE-2 values, we can conclude that I have no problem: in my last and most difficult trial, at 4.9GHz, and with an ambient temperature of 30C, we see (post #2830, spoiler) that my max VCORE-1 was 70C and my max VCORE-2 was 56C. We also know that AI Suite gives a warning at VCORE-1 = 80C and that they can reach a temperature of 100C or even more. Am I right?

Please be kind enough and also explain IF your suggestions help in maintaining stability on high frequencies or help achieve higher clocks, or whatever else benefit they might have.

I will also test, the 4.8 & 4.9GHz, with the "Standard" / "Auto" values (of these specific features) and compare the VRM temps.

And pardon me if I sound weird but I am really making an effort to write correct in English.


----------



## Mega Man

it is np and your doing fine !

you are correct, as i said in my first settings post, as long as you put a fan or water cool the vrms you are fine

i am sorry i didnt not explain but the first time i did not know what you ment by your question, i thought you just wanted to know why i know how to do that


----------



## Johan45

Ihave never found that for clocks around 5.0 that adjusting the phasing etc. was even necessary. I set my CPU/NB and ram LLC to high and that's it. A clock of 4.8 to 5.0 is really going to increase the V_core voltage to 1.5v to 1.6v I would also suggest you up your CPU_NB voltage for that 16G of tight ram. 1.28 to 1.3v


----------



## Mega Man

i would suggest you try it may help lower vcore needed, it has helped me alot


----------



## LostParticle

Two Small FFTs tests of approximately 20 minutes each:

Default DIGI+ Power Control settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







@Mega Man 's suggested settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







There is almost NO difference in temperatures!

Conclusion: I will use Mega Man's suggestions. I suppose this is what you mean with your last message, right?


----------



## Mega Man

for me the effects seen were much farther in then 20 min, at 6+ hours i would fail until i did this ( IE with default settings )


----------



## LostParticle

Hello again

I have finally stabilized my current attempt: 4.8GHz, by using strictly the Multiplier (CPU Ratio)









BIOS settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










Twelve hours of Prime95, Blend-custom, 85% Ram, Room temperature = 30C


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



A few seconds before terminating the test: temperatures - voltages


After stopping the test




Any comments/suggestions are welcomed!









There is one thing I'd like to ask specifically @The Sandman though, or anyone else who would like to answer, of course:

- Do you see my DRAM Row Cycle Time (tRC)? Set in Auto my motherboard sets it at 46 clocks. Is this way too high? Can I set it lower and if so, at which value?

Thank you


----------



## Johan45

Your temps and all look good, I would consider raising the NB speed a bit. As for the ram tRFC there should be a setting from the ram itself. Check the tools section in bios under SPD. You should be able to drop it to 40 or less possibly. It all depends on the ram. If it's close up the ram voltage a tad. to get it stable. Trial and error is the only true test.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Your temps and all look good, I would consider raising the NB speed a bit. As for the ram tRFC there should be a setting from the ram itself. Check the tools section in bios under SPD. You should be able to drop it to 40 or less possibly. It all depends on the ram. If it's close up the ram voltage a tad. to get it stable. Trial and error is the only true test.


Thank you for the immediate reply!

Here is a screenshot from CPU-Z, SPD tab:



Does this mean that I can set it manually at 33 clocks?!

The truth is that my memory kit has 2 profiles, #1 and #2, but I did not use those neither in this O/C attempt nor in my previous (successful) one, the FSB + Turbo. I just set the first four timings manually, and leave all the rest in Auto. The motherboard does the job. In the FSB + Turbo O/C it has set the tRC at 40 cycles. (post #2797). The command rate is 1T, always.

Finally, why raising the NB speed and how much should I raise it?

Thanks a lot!









ps: it is strange with the DRAM voltage! The M/B keeps it below 1.6V most of the time!!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Thank you for the immediate reply!
> 
> Here is a screenshot from CPU-Z, SPD tab:
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mean that I can set it manually at 33 clocks?!
> 
> The truth is that my memory kit has 2 profiles, #1 and #2, but I did not use those neither in this O/C attempt nor in my previous (successful) one, the FSB + Turbo. I just set the first four timings manually, and leave all the rest in Auto. The motherboard does the job. In the FSB + Turbo O/C it has set the tRC at 40 cycles. (post #2797). The command rate is 1T, always.
> 
> Finally, why raising the NB speed and how much should I raise it?
> 
> Thanks a lot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ps: it is strange with the DRAM voltage! The M/B keeps it below 1.6V most of the time!!


1. I always recommend manually entering as many as you feel comfortable with (Dram timing), even if it's exactly the same as what the bios reads with said entries still on auto. This keeps Dram at a constant/unchanging setting so it rules out any chance of it changing value without your knowledge, this can/will happen as you make changes in other areas of your OC.

Seems strange as there is a difference between our mobos running the exact same Ram kit.
Here's what the CHV-Z displays after only entering 8-9-9-24 than changing the others to match bios.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








So, yes just manually enter 33 tRC you should be just fine.

2. The NB Freq comes with two different points of view.
Some claim there's no/little benefit over stock, while others (self included) that can easily see the gains in benchmarks and even feel the increase.
You'll have to test for yourself as Johan45 mentioned to be sure. AIDA64 has a nice memory benchmark that will show you the changes.

Keeping the HT and NB freq's the same works well for what I do. (As high as possible)
The only time you'll see any gains from OCing the HT is when you run multiple GPU's (Megaman can chime in on his 3400MHz HT wow).

Have you tried 2400MHz with your kit yet?


Note the SPD values.


----------



## Weird0ne

So I'm using a 212 Evo cooler for the 8350. Started OC'ing and it's hitting 69C - 72C when I run prime, is that fine?
Trying to hit 4.6GHz stable atm using this guide


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weird0ne*
> 
> So I'm using a 212 Evo cooler for the 8350. Started OC'ing and it's hitting 69C - 72C when I run prime, is that fine?
> Trying to hit 4.6GHz stable atm using this guide


Sounds high to me. Im running 4.6GHz ATM at 34-40 degrees while gaming, 48-50 with prime on water. 4.8GHz bumps me up about 5 degrees.

What temps are you seeing while gaming?

Your vcore?


----------



## Weird0ne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Sounds high to me. Im running 4.6GHz ATM at 34-40 degrees while gaming, 48-50 with prime on water. 4.8GHz bumps me up about 5 degrees.
> 
> What temps are you seeing while gaming?
> 
> Your vcore?


I don't have time to run all the proper tests atm but my VCore is 1.452, 4.62GHz using 210x22.
Prime actually ran me up to 80C while testing, getting about 48C with a game open.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weird0ne*
> 
> I don't have time to run all the proper tests atm but my VCore is 1.452, 4.62GHz using 210x22.
> Prime actually ran me up to 80C while testing, getting about 48C with a game open.


Wow. try lowering Vcore. Thats where your heat is coming from (P=IE). My vcore is 1.40 (drops a bit under load) at 4.6GHz


----------



## LostParticle

Hi again guys , @Johan45, @The Sandman

Thanks a lot for your replies and your suggestions.

Let me start by saying that I've contacted G.Skill technical support and they told me to better leave tRC where the motherboard automatically sets it, so at 46 cycles. For the other matter, the fact that my motherboard rarely shows 1.6V even though I have DRAM voltage set at 1.615V in the BIOS, they said that some motherboards do that, and that to be sure about the actual DRAM voltage used I have to use a voltmeter. Well, I do not own one so I will keep setting it at 1.615V in the BIOS manually.

When it comes to your suggestions about tRC, I've benchmarked "everything" with AIDA64. Instead of posting a ton of screenshots in this message, here is an Excel snapshot with all the results:


_screenshots available to anyone interested._

In what we see above, Profile 0 and Profile 1 are the ready made profiles the DRAM kit provides. After loading Optimized Defaults and rebooting I had to select D.O.C.P. in the BIOS for those to become available. Where it says "Manual-46" and the likes it means that I was manually setting tRC at 46, 33 and 40 cycles, respectively. As you can see there's almost no difference, nothing significant at least, not even in the benchmark.

Where something significant took place was when I manually set NB frequency at 2600MHz, giving the same value at HT Link Speed. So you were right! There is a benefit when raising this from its stock value (2200).

Conclusion: when it comes to the RAM on my system I will always either set tRC manually at 40 cycles or leave it on Auto. Regarding NB Frequency it's set at 2200MHz (Auto) in my previous successful 4.8 - Multi O/C attempt, and at a bit more (2330, I think) in my FSB+Turbo profile. I will raise it to 2600 at the 4.8-Multi profile (and stress-test), if there's no objection! The FSB+Turbo will stay as is.

These will happen in a future time though because after a couple of hours I will start my third overclocking effort:

4.8GHz using strictly the FSB !

Anyone who would like to help me is very (very) welcomed!









Thank you very much!

ps: I haven't started the efforts to overclock my memory yet because I want to finish first with overclocking my processor using all possible methods.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weird0ne*
> 
> So I'm using a 212 Evo cooler for the 8350. Started OC'ing and it's hitting 69C - 72C when I run prime, is that fine?
> Trying to hit 4.6GHz stable atm using this guide


thats about as good as you'll get with the beloved evo i wouldnt try higher


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weird0ne*
> 
> So I'm using a 212 Evo cooler for the 8350. Started OC'ing and it's hitting 69C - 72C when I run prime, is that fine?
> Trying to hit 4.6GHz stable atm using this guide


I have the same cooler. I have a fan blowing air in from the top of my case, I have a cpu fan stuck on the back of the mother board to cool the socket, this makes a big difference to socket temps. I also have another cpu fan to cool the vrms. At 4.5 Ghz overclock on my 8320 under full prime ffts my max temps hit around 57/58 celcius. I could not achieve this without that cpu fan on the socket.

Oh and I can reach 4.6Ghz at 63 c on the core under prime but that is too hot for me currently.


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi again guys , @Johan45, @The Sandman
> 
> Thanks a lot for your replies and your suggestions.
> 
> .


+1. I have learnt a lot from reading your exchanges. I will reread them when I get water cooled and try for higher.


----------



## Smally268

Hi guys, i was pointed to this guide by another member in the Gigabyte 990FX owners thread, and ive gotta say the guide is superb.
Thought id post up my journey so far to try and reach 4.6Ghz on my chip.

So i started with disabling all power saving features, CnQ, Turbo Boost etc and figured out my CPU stock voltage, set LLC at Medium and went from there.

Step 1 - 4.2Ghz @ 1.3375 and passed a 10min Small FFT
Step 2 - 4.3Ghz @ 1.3375 and failed a 10min Small FFT (Worker 8 Failed)
Step 3 - 4.3Ghz @ 1.3500 and passed 10min Small FFT
Step 4 - 4.4Ghz @ 1.3500 and failed 10 min Small FFT (Worker 6 Failed after 5min)
Step 5 - 4.4Ghz @ 1.3625 and failed 10 min Small FFT (Worker 6 Failed after 3min)
Step 6 - 4.4Ghz @ 1.3875 and passed 10min Small FFT
Step 7 - 4.6Ghz @ 1.3875 and failed 10min Small FFT (BSOD)
Step 8 - 4.6Ghz @ 1.4125 and failed Small FFT (Worker 5 ILLEGAL SUMOUT)
Step 9 - 4.6Ghz @ 1.4375 and passed Small FFT

At this point i started with a custom test using 75% Ram as shown in the guides as i got to the 4.6GHz I wanted

Step 10 - 4.6Ghz @ 1.4375 Failed Prime test (Worker 5 failed after 21 min)
Step 11 - 4.6Ghz @ 1.4500 Failed Prime Test (BSOD)
Step 12 - 4.6Ghz @ 1.4625 Failed Prime Test (VRMs got to hot and started throttling the CPU)

So now im thinking that i cant get a 4.6Ghz overclock unless i put a fan on the VRMs, which im not willing to do just yet so i dropped down to 4.5 Ghz and used my last successful voltage at Small FFT which was 1.435v

Step 13 - 4.5Ghz @ 1.4375 - Passed Small FFT

So now im running a full prime test at these settings and it seems pretty stable, if it passes after 2 hrs (currently 1hr 32mins in) i may try lowering the voltages a litte more. Im thinking i may be able to get it down to around 1.4125v

I'll let you know how i get on









Ive gotta say that ive really enjoyed overclocking this CPU so many thanks for the guide as i was a bit lost at first.

Thanks
Mr Small

P.S Sorry for thelarge post


----------



## Weird0ne

Hitting 78C right now on p95 12 hour test...


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weird0ne*
> 
> Hitting 78C right now on p95 12 hour test...


78C on CPU core? What is your ambient temperature?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> +1. I have learnt a lot from reading your exchanges. I will reread them when I get water cooled and try for higher.


Thank you, we all try to do our best and help each other


----------



## Smally268

Just an update from my previous post and a question I'm hoping you can help me with.

So I finally got prime stable after 2hrs using 4.5Ghz and 1.4250 volts.

I then decided to run OCCT just to double check everything and I'm not sure if there is an issue with my RAM.
I ran a 10 minute test and found my ram usage dropping after a couple of minutes and I'm not sure if this is normal for OCCT or not

Settings used:


----------



## tobyshorkie

my 8320 is stable at 4.8, I didn't really mind the temps as they are fine, running a custom water 360 rad, with fan on the vrm and small fan on the rear of the socket, I think the cpu hit a wall at 4.8, going to 5 will require a lot more voltage just to get that extra 200 which is not worth it, I am more concerned with the triple 280x running which gets hot, I am still waiting for another good deal on another 280x to get to quadfire, I have a 3770k at 4.5 with sli 770 and the amd with the trifire280x is can run crysis3 a lot better than the other system, but the game still cannot be maxed out at 1440p with the trifire, I think with a quadfire it may still not be possible to max out crysis3 with butter smooth framerates


----------



## LostParticle

Hi again!









I have managed to stabilize my "4.8GHz FSB - strictly" effort, at last!!










BIOS settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











Fifteen hours of Prime95, Blend-custom, 85% Ram, room temperature = 29 - 30 C


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









I think this was my last effort on 4.8GHz. I might try one last thing: 4.5 using the CPU Ratio and then going to 4.8 via the FSB. Not sure if I will try this method but I think I will because it will help me in my future attempts to reach 5.0 GHz.

And with these efforts I am done for the time being. Ambient temperatures -around 30C this time of the year, here- do not allow me to stress test for higher frequencies. In about a month or two I will start again, aiming at 4.9 and then at 5.0 GHz.

Any comments, advice, suggestions are welcomed and appreciated!









Thank you.


----------



## Gregory14

Now I see why the NB frequency helps with the FPS in games. I noticed a difference in Crysis 3 at 2400+, it still froze up on me, usually happens with C&Q enabled. So I disabled that, loosened up the RAM timings to 8-8-9-24 2T. NB is at 2444, CPU is at 4888Mhz, although idle its running kinda hotter, 42c, hit 59c in game. I still have C1E enabled. Although its quite hot right now, my ambient temp is 33c.


----------



## Chopper1591

Hello folks,

I am seeing very various LLC settings here.

Is there somebody who has done a test on the LLC solely?
Like having all clocks and all at a fixed number but only changing LLC to see what the impact is on temps, voltages and maybe even performance(benches)?

I have mine at very high all the time, but maybe I can do better?

Am trying to work my way up with as less voltage as possible now. Normally I went the other route, going as high as my cooling can take.
But it seems that after 4.6ghz I hit a major voltage-wall.

Running 4.2ghz @ 1.404v atm. 2600 htt and 2400 cpu-nb @ 1.25v. Ram is at 2133mhz 9-10-10-29-39-1T


----------



## Gregory14

LLC is for main current to the CPU and other hardware, LLC / voltages. 1866 being what the Processor can handle, you need more volts for higher than that and it stress' the CPU. If temps are a problem then lower the RAM frequency and voltage, and see how it goes.


----------



## LostParticle

Hey guys, I have a simple (and kinda off topic) question:

- I thought to run a benchmark on all of my saved O/C profiles. I've downloaded CINEBENCH_R15. Is this benchmark appropriate? Would you recommend something else?

And most importantly: should I run this benchmark with the Power Saving features (in the BIOS) enabled or disabled? I'm talking here about C n Q, HPC Mode, APM Master mode and C1E.

Thanks


----------



## Gregory14

Crysis 2 is good. I would turn off C&Q when testing. the other C states are only active when idle. So leave them on, then let the computer rest for a bit and see what happens.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> Crysis 2 is good. I would turn off C&Q when testing. the other C states are only active when idle. So leave them on, then let the computer rest for a bit and see what happens.


Thank you for your reply.

I thought to leave all power saving features enabled because I was thinking to test my computer in real life conditions where all of those are enabled (meaning, I have them as they are on Optimized Defaults). I will benchmark it both with them enabled and disabled.

Is there a Crysis 2 benchmark or you are talking about the actual game? If you are talking about the game I do not own it, so I cannot test with that. If there is a benchmark please provide a link.

Thank you.


----------



## Gregory14

I meant the game Crysis 2. It can be considered a standard PC stress test whilst having fun, until it crashes. Here


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://www.futuremark.com/support/downloads


. You can find a test that suits your computer on that site. Its a good all around test. Takes about 20 Mins to complete.


----------



## crastakippers

LostParticle,

it would be great if you could post a comparison bench mark of your FSB OC with the CPU multi only OC. I intend to try both OCs when I can get hold of a H220-x. Do you notice a real difference in everyday use?

4.8GHz is a great OC btw.

One more question, I'm assuming there is no issue OCing the ram on the sabertooth. I notice you left the timings on auto and upped the frequency and voltage. Was it that easy?


----------



## Gregory14

I should have clarified to do the 3D Mark Vantage benchmark, I just did the test.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> LLC is for main current to the CPU and other hardware, LLC / voltages. 1866 being what the Processor can handle, you need more volts for higher than that and it stress' the CPU. If temps are a problem then lower the RAM frequency and voltage, and see how it goes.


Were you answering my post?
If so, it's better to make a quote so it's more obvious to who you answer.

I know what LLC does. I have been around the OC scene some time.
Just was curious to see if someone did test a scenario I posted.

Have you seen my rig in my sig?
Temps are not a problem.









But I did indeed notice that lower ram clocks let me lower the vcore a pretty big step.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a simple (and kinda off topic) question:
> 
> - I thought to run a benchmark on all of my saved O/C profiles. I've downloaded CINEBENCH_R15. Is this benchmark appropriate? Would you recommend something else?
> 
> And most importantly: should I run this benchmark with the Power Saving features (in the BIOS) enabled or disabled? I'm talking here about C n Q, HPC Mode, APM Master mode and C1E.
> 
> Thanks


If you normally have power savings on I would leave them on as you do benches.
Like you already said, that would give you the most real life stats.

Cinebench is a good program to use. I use that myself to compare cpu and ram settings.
But like gregory stated it is a isolated bench. Mostly cpu-bound.

So just test whatever you use most.
If you do gaming use game benches, 3dmark or Unigine for example.

wPrime is also a nice tool to test overal performance.

And... post some results.










Here's some food for you guys:


----------



## Gregory14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Were you answering my post?
> If so, it's better to make a quote so it's more obvious to who you answer.
> 
> I know what LLC does. I have been around the OC scene some time.
> Just was curious to see if someone did test a scenario I posted.
> 
> Have you seen my rig in my sig?
> Temps are not a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I did indeed notice that lower ram clocks let me lower the vcore a pretty big step.
> ]


Yeah I meant to reply to your post. I was actually saying that to get confirmation for myself that it does the same like my intel computer. Indeed it does. And the Furmark 3D bench uses 100% CPU in the test I noticed.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> Yeah I meant to reply to your post. I was actually saying that to get confirmation for myself that it does the same like my intel computer. Indeed it does. And the Furmark 3D bench uses 100% CPU in the test I noticed.


You mean lowering the ram clock allowed you to lower the vcore?
It's kinda obvious though as it puts less stress on the IMC.

Do you have a 3dmark run to compare your cpu score with mine?


----------



## 12Cores

Chopper can you game @ 5.1 and is you LLC calibration set to High, Ultra High or Extreme at 1.54vcore, thanks in advance.


----------



## Gregory14

Not the RAM part, its obvious now, but I was pointing it out. I was talking LLC.

I sure do have a comparison, just ran a bench this morning.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Chopper can you game @ 5.1 and is you LLC calibration set to High, Ultra High or Extreme at 1.54vcore, thanks in advance.


I think not.
Just did that run for fun. Haven't tested it at all. Just ramped up the voltage and Multi and benched.

I highly doubt it was stable.

LLC was/is at Ultra High.
CPU-nb LLC at High

I mostly have it clocked at 4.6 lately for the sweet spot voltage-wise. 1.4125v
Bumping it to 4.8 will need about 1.48v for it to be stable.

Both with 2133 ram.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> Not the RAM part, its obvious now, but I was pointing it out. I was talking LLC.
> 
> I sure do have a comparison, just ran a bench this morning.
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Is that a fun run?
5ghz with 1.344v?










Do you have a fan blowing at the rear of the socket btw?
Helped me to lower the temps a good 5-10c


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> LostParticle,
> 
> it would be great if you could post a comparison bench mark of your FSB OC with the CPU multi only OC. I intend to try both OCs when I can get hold of a H220-x. Do you notice a real difference in everyday use?
> 
> 4.8GHz is a great OC btw.
> 
> One more question, I'm assuming there is no issue OCing the ram on the sabertooth. I notice you left the timings on auto and upped the frequency and voltage. Was it that easy?


Hi

I have prepared an Excel sheet to help myself in my future attempts. I don't know if it helps but here it is:



It sums up all my successful efforts so far - and if you will look at my previous messages you will find all these settings together with the Prime95 stress tests. I've run CINEBENCH as well, just as a personal guideline, I do not need/feel like comparing my system to others. CINEBENCH was run with all the Power Saving features in the BIOS, enabled. Specifically, C n Q, C1E, Core C6 State were enabled, SVM and HPC Mode were disabled and APM was on Auto. I took them one after another, after loading the specific OC profile, of course. I have screenshots from each one of the benchmarks but I don't like filling up the place with them. If anyone wants, I can post them.

When it comes to my RAM, so the G.Skill kit I have this period, I have not tried to overclock it yet because I wish to finish with the processor first. Personally, I think that there's no way to lower the timings of this specific DRAM model (and keep it at 1866) but it has behaved nicely when I raised it at (approx.) 2133MHz (see FSB attempt).

Hope I've helped you a bit. I don't know much.

EDIT: by the way, the most ...interesting O/C profile, so far, is the FSB + Turbo! Here's a screenshot of the values as I am typing this message and after having it on idle for a few minutes! Wow.... Am I in danger?!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## 12Cores

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I think not.
> Just did that run for fun. Haven't tested it at all. Just ramped up the voltage and Multi and benched.
> 
> I highly doubt it was stable.
> 
> LLC was/is at Ultra High.
> CPU-nb LLC at High
> 
> I mostly have it clocked at 4.6 lately for the sweet spot voltage-wise. 1.4125v
> Bumping it to 4.8 will need about 1.48v for it to be stable.
> 
> Both with 2133 ram.
> Is that a fun run?
> 5ghz with 1.344v?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a fan blowing at the rear of the socket btw?
> Helped me to lower the temps a good 5-10c


Chopper, thank you for your response. These chips would rule if 75% of them would hit 5-5.2 at less that 1.45v, I am still going hold on to this build for another 2 years or so.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *12Cores*
> 
> Chopper, thank you for your response. These chips would rule if 75% of them would hit 5-5.2 at less that 1.45v, I am still going hold on to this build for another 2 years or so.


I highly doubt that even any would hit 5.2 @ 1.45v.
Well, it would boot. But I don't believe there are stable chips with that voltage.

Anyway...
I just don't think it is worth it, at least not for me, to run my chip at 5ghz.
The power consumption will just be too high to justify the gains above 4.8ghz.

But for fun, in benches... why not.

Performance per watt = Intel, hands down.
Performance per dollar = AMD all the way


----------



## Gregory14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I think not.
> Just did that run for fun. Haven't tested it at all. Just ramped up the voltage and Multi and benched.
> 
> I highly doubt it was stable.
> 
> LLC was/is at Ultra High.
> CPU-nb LLC at High
> 
> I mostly have it clocked at 4.6 lately for the sweet spot voltage-wise. 1.4125v
> Bumping it to 4.8 will need about 1.48v for it to be stable.
> 
> Both with 2133 ram.
> Is that a fun run?
> 5ghz with 1.344v?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a fan blowing at the rear of the socket btw?
> Helped me to lower the temps a good 5-10c


actually offset voltage of i think + .08265 NB offset + .01250

No rear fan either, although I bet it would help, the backplate does get warm.

It was a fun run, I barely changed it yesterday, FSB is 207 or 208, thats it. NB 2200, HT 2600. Multi 23.5. Dang I think the FSB is higher, but I know I set it to 23.5 multi. For 5Ghz it has to be 1.356v, but I also find the sweet spot at 4.8 with it turbo'ing to 5Ghz when its cool ambient. This is my new 24/7 setting. Ran Crysis 3 stable and bench stable. However Crysis is the only game that requires disabling C&Q, for some odd reason. I left C1E enabled. Idling at 44c right now. Ram was set to 1600, but its a little above that with the FSB. Im going to create a game profile with the NB at 2400 just for Crysis 3, as I saw good gains with it like that.

Actual Settings:










Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Thats a Vcore offset of + .08750


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi
> 
> I have prepared an Excel sheet to help myself in my future attempts. I don't know if it helps but here it is:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Yes it is useful information and thank you.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Yes it is useful information and thank you.


You are welcome, I'm glad that an inexperienced person like me could help you









The truth is that I did not have the time yet to try all these profiles in everyday usage but for the next two months I will have plenty of time! I do not play games neither I do any intensive/demanding work with my computer so I will be simulating demanding tasks by running all of the Prime95 torture tests for an hour or two, few times per week. The profiles will be used for a week, each.

Finally, let me add two things:

1) In all of my efforts the DIGI+ Power control settings were set as this guide suggests. Specifically:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CPU LLC = Ultra High
CPU/NB LLC = High
CPU Current Capability & CPU/NB Current Capability = 130%
CPU Power Phase Control = Standard
CPU Voltage Frequency = Auto
VRM Spread Spectrum = Disabled
CPU Power Duty Control = T.Probe
CPU & CPU/NB Power Response Control = Auto
CPU Power Thermal control = 130
DRAM Current capability = 130%
DRAM Voltage frequency = 300
DRAM Power Phase control = Optimized.



In my last, and most difficult, effort (FSB) I've tried the DIGI+ settings that @Mega Man has suggested few posts earlier. I have not seen any benefit from them, neither have they helped me reach stability with lower voltage values. Perhaps they will be useful when I will be trying for the 5.0 GHz

2) When stress testing people usually advise to stay near the computer as much as possible. Personally, I do that only when I'm running the 10-20 minutes Small FFTs. When running the long, 12+ hours, stability Blend-custom test I cannot possibly be in the room, or in the house, all this time so I am setting Alerts in HWiNFO64. Here is an example:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







In this example I kill Prime95 when the Core temp will reach 70C.

The most useful setting though is this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Prime95 gets killed if total cpu usage will be less than 99%. This reassures that Prime will not keep running after a core will fail. And if I have to leave the house or sleep I can load shutdown.exe - found in C:\Windows\System32- with the parameters -s -t 10 (shutdown in 10 seconds). The computer will shutdown if a core will fail and the results.txt will get updated. Remember to enable the kill command after the cores reach 100% usage.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> actually offset voltage of i think + .08265 NB offset + .01250
> 
> No rear fan either, although I bet it would help, the backplate does get warm.
> 
> It was a fun run, I barely changed it yesterday, FSB is 207 or 208, thats it. NB 2200, HT 2600. Multi 23.5. Dang I think the FSB is higher, but I know I set it to 23.5 multi. For 5Ghz it has to be 1.356v, but I also find the sweet spot at 4.8 with it turbo'ing to 5Ghz when its cool ambient. This is my new 24/7 setting. Ran Crysis 3 stable and bench stable. However Crysis is the only game that requires disabling C&Q, for some odd reason. I left C1E enabled. Idling at 44c right now. Ram was set to 1600, but its a little above that with the FSB. Im going to create a game profile with the NB at 2400 just for Crysis 3, as I saw good gains with it like that.
> 
> Actual Settings:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats a Vcore offset of + .08750


Are you saying you rely on games and benches to call it stable?

Prime blend is the way to go.
I doubt it will pass a few hours.

I call it stable when it will run at least 12 hours blend. Preferably 24.

And is there a reason you use offset instead of manual voltage?


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> You are welcome


I was not aware alerts could be used to initiate prime95 shutdown. Now I can run blends tests for more than 8 hours without worry. Thanks again.


----------



## Gregory14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are you saying you rely on games and benches to call it stable?
> 
> Prime blend is the way to go.
> I doubt it will pass a few hours.
> 
> I call it stable when it will run at least 12 hours blend. Preferably 24.
> 
> And is there a reason you use offset instead of manual voltage?


I've never ran a prime or IBT burn test for more than 5 mins. I dont just rely on games and benches to call it stable, but I havent had a crash, unless it was in a game with C&Q enabled. I just let it run the way it runs, and if it crashes, so be it. But it does not crash, thankfully.

The reason I still use offset voltage is because thats the way Ive always had it, and I keep it that way all the time. I've enabled C6 as well, and put core on/off function to auto, idling at 32c on the socket now. It goes down to 1.332V at idle like this. Thanks.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gregory14*
> 
> I've never ran a prime or IBT burn test for more than 5 mins. I dont just rely on games and benches to call it stable, but I havent had a crash, unless it was in a game with C&Q enabled. I just let it run the way it runs, and if it crashes, so be it. But it does not crash, thankfully.
> 
> The reason I still use offset voltage is because thats the way Ive always had it, and I keep it that way all the time. I've enabled C6 as well, and put core on/off function to auto, idling at 32c on the socket now. It goes down to 1.332V at idle like this. Thanks.


Ok.
Crashes are not the only reaction of instability you know.
I have noticed that lowering the overclock to make it stable actually gives better performance then a sky high unstable clock.

But, it's your show.
Use whatever you like the most.


----------



## Piddeman

I give up trying to keep my sockel temp low...I dont want to keep my case open to keep my temp low..

I will go over to Intel.

I will buy a I3, 4370. Funny is that the I3 have stronger gaming power and runs ALOT cooler than a FX 8350...Bye bye AMD..

My PC gets so hot that the peace of crap throttles down (No its not Cool n quiet)...Yet I have nice cooling on it (I dont want to build a custom loop water cooling) AMD setups its not worth the money..

NH-D14 with 2x NF-F12 and 2 50mm fans on the VRM heatsink...My cpu temp is ok, but the sockel temp is pathetic...70c stock...Jesus christ...I have undervolt the cpu and turn off turbo. Digi power all set to Regular, and 100% etc...

Look here...everything on stock...And the crappy PC is throttning down in prime95...Cuz of the high sockel temp...


http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18566305


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> I give up trying to keep my sockel temp low...I dont want to keep my case open to keep my temp low..
> 
> I will go over to Intel.
> 
> I will buy a I3, 4370. Funny is that the I3 have stronger gaming power and runs ALOT cooler than a FX 8350...Bye bye AMD..
> 
> My PC gets so hot that the peace of crap throttles down (No its not Cool n quiet)...Yet I have nice cooling on it (I dont want to build a custom loop water cooling) AMD setups its not worth the money..
> 
> NH-D14 with 2x NF-F12 and 2 50mm fans on the VRM heatsink...My cpu temp is ok, but the sockel temp is pathetic...70c stock...Jesus christ...I have undervolt the cpu and turn off turbo. Digi power all set to Regular, and 100% etc...
> 
> Look here...everything on stock...And the crappy PC is throttning down in prime95...Cuz of the high sockel temp...
> 
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18566305


no it is throttling because of APM is enabled and HPC is disabled ( maybe i am wrong about HPC ) but if you shut off apm the throttling goes away

also to note that mobo is known for high socket temps


----------



## 2003M36sp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> I give up trying to keep my sockel temp low...I dont want to keep my case open to keep my temp low..
> 
> I will go over to Intel.
> 
> I will buy a I3, 4370. Funny is that the I3 have stronger gaming power and runs ALOT cooler than a FX 8350...Bye bye AMD..
> 
> My PC gets so hot that the peace of crap throttles down (No its not Cool n quiet)...Yet I have nice cooling on it (I dont want to build a custom loop water cooling) AMD setups its not worth the money..
> 
> NH-D14 with 2x NF-F12 and 2 50mm fans on the VRM heatsink...My cpu temp is ok, but the sockel temp is pathetic...70c stock...Jesus christ...I have undervolt the cpu and turn off turbo. Digi power all set to Regular, and 100% etc...
> 
> Look here...everything on stock...And the crappy PC is throttning down in prime95...Cuz of the high sockel temp...
> 
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18566305


lol i3 what are they good for wasting money especially if ur a gamer if they do run cooler; I don't know anyone who has one it would be cause there a dual core vs a eight core. Another thing i wouldn't go back to a quad core never mind a dual core.














Quadish




This is at 1360 x 768 due to monitors which will also make the games more cpu demanding.

Every game i play ever graphical eye candy is at the highest. Settings are either ultra then i check to make sure there all as high as they can be some games like watchdogs go higher then ultra couple other also but everything is maxed for the gpu except physic.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> I give up trying to keep my sockel temp low...I dont want to keep my case open to keep my temp low..
> 
> I will go over to Intel.
> 
> I will buy a I3, 4370. Funny is that the I3 have stronger gaming power and runs ALOT cooler than a FX 8350...Bye bye AMD..
> 
> My PC gets so hot that the peace of crap throttles down (No its not Cool n quiet)...Yet I have nice cooling on it (I dont want to build a custom loop water cooling) AMD setups its not worth the money..
> 
> NH-D14 with 2x NF-F12 and 2 50mm fans on the VRM heatsink...My cpu temp is ok, but the sockel temp is pathetic...70c stock...Jesus christ...I have undervolt the cpu and turn off turbo. Digi power all set to Regular, and 100% etc...
> 
> Look here...everything on stock...And the crappy PC is throttning down in prime95...Cuz of the high sockel temp...
> 
> 
> http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18566305


There has to be a problem somewhere.

When I have my 8320 @ 4.8ghz with very high LLC and 1.487v the socket only gets to about 64c max while doing prime smallFFTs.
I do have a 12cm fan blowing to the rear of the socket though. This helped me lower the temp for like 5-10c


----------



## Piddeman

The solution is called Intel...I will sell my AMD PC for a good price so I can get rid of it..

So tired of having a noicy PC. I want a cool and quiet PC. That still manage to run games at stable frames.


----------



## Mega Man

w.e.

you want cool and quiet go water,

air is air, and having a intel under it does not make it cooler or quieter

either way


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> w.e.
> 
> you want cool and quiet go water,
> 
> air is air, and having a intel under it does not make it cooler or quieter
> 
> either way


So true Mega.









Overclocking is a way of life.
No room for quiters here.







(joking, don't ban me)











Seeking advice from my fellow addicts once again.

I am going another route. Wanting to try and make my ram run @ 1866mhz with the lowest possible timings.
What is your advice on this?

First I thought running ram at high frequency was better but I doubt that now. Lowering the ram speed also lets me lower the vcore a fair amount.

What should I do?
Where should I start?

My ram is in the rig:
G.Skill 2400 9-11-11-31-2T

Tested so far:
1866 8-9-9-26-1T

I really have no clue what to do with the secundary timings, but I do think there is something to gain there.
Rofl. Seems like 8-8-8 isn't stable. It was set at those while I typed this, had not run a stress, and I got a nice BSOD.


----------



## Piddeman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> w.e.
> 
> you want cool and quiet go water,
> 
> air is air, and having a intel under it does not make it cooler or quieter
> 
> either way


Air cooler is quieter than noicy pump from a water cooling =/ If you don't put 1000£ on the watercooling system...Then maybe the pump doesnt sound so much.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> Air cooler is quieter than noicy pump from a water cooling =/ If you don't put 1000£ on the watercooling system...Then maybe the pump doesnt sound so much.


you said bye bye amd over 20 hours ago?

why are u here still posting lol


----------



## saulgoodman

Hello everyone, it's a few weeks ago I read around the forum about the oc of my configuration.

Case Thermaltake Commander MS-1
Thermaltake Berlin Smart B630W 80 Plus PFC
AMD FX 8320
Cooler Master Ventirad Hyper 212 EVO
ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0
Kingston Hyperx Fury Memory Black Memoria RAM DIMM 2x8 GB 1866 MHz
Scheda video Ati Sapphire R9 280 - 3GB GDDR5
Western Digital WD10EZEX Caviar BLUE HardDisk SATA 64MB Cache

I just finished the test with IBT set to very high.
I received an error at the end of last cycle, but I do not know what is due, I also run in administrator mode.



while below my bios settings.







(I used the guide in the first post .. about! then with some personal adaptation!)

I have no idea if the configuration of the bios is set correctly and if the values that I have are good,
I checked the temperature of the CPU package, for the rest you tell me!

I can try to increase a little bit multiplier?
maybe a 4.4 / 4.5 GHz ??

thanks in advance!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> So true Mega.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overclocking is a way of life.
> No room for quiters here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (joking, don't ban me)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seeking advice from my fellow addicts once again.
> 
> I am going another route. Wanting to try and make my ram run @ 1866mhz with the lowest possible timings.
> What is your advice on this?
> 
> First I thought running ram at high frequency was better but I doubt that now. Lowering the ram speed also lets me lower the vcore a fair amount.
> 
> What should I do?
> Where should I start?
> 
> My ram is in the rig:
> G.Skill 2400 9-11-11-31-2T
> 
> Tested so far:
> 1866 8-9-9-26-1T
> 
> I really have no clue what to do with the secundary timings, but I do think there is something to gain there.
> Rofl. Seems like 8-8-8 isn't stable. It was set at those while I typed this, had not run a stress, and I got a nice BSOD.


This should help you get a basic understanding of the path required http://www.overclock.net/t/809889/amd-overclocking-timing-guide#post_10483184
it may be somewhat dated but the basics still apply.

Secondary timings could be left on auto as bios will adjust them as needed.
Be sure to leave Dram Driving Control on auto as well.

As you tighten timings you will see a need for additional Dram voltage. Make small voltage increases and re-test
If you look at my rig sig you'll see I have the GSkill 1866MHz kit (timings you listed above) and for my needs performance is better at freq/timings listed in sig.
I haven't spent a lot of time trying to tighten yet but have been able to stabilize this 1866MHz kit even at 2408MHz with your kits timings at 1T.


----------



## saulgoodman

@ComputerRestore thanks for your guide! a true miracle!
unfortunately I do not have the stable values when I run the test with IBT and prime95,
IBT always fails, even if it leads to the end of the cycles.
(I'm doing short cycles, just to see if I have the base to do more extensive testing)

I list my settings, if you have the chance, I would need a review:



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Ai Tweaker Settings

Cpu Ratio - 21x200
Memory Frequency - DD3-1866 (kingston hyperx 1866Mhz 8x2- 10-11-10-30)
CPU/NB Frequency - AUTO
HT Link Speed - AUTO
CPU Manual Voltage 1.35
CPU/NB Manual Voltage AUTO
CPU VDDA Voltage - AUTO
DRAM Voltage - AUTO
NB Voltage - AUTO
NB HT Voltage - AUTO
NB 1.8V Voltage - AUTO
SB Voltage - AUTO

DIGI+

CPU LLC - High
CPU/NB LLC - High
CPU Current Capability - 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability - AUTO
CPU Power Phase Control - Optimized
CPU Power Duty Control - T.Probe
CPU Power Response Control - fast
CPU/NB Power Response Control - fast
CPU Power Thermal Control - 130
DRAM Current Capability - 100%
DRAM Power Phase Control - Optimal

Advanced Tab

Cool'n'Quiet - Always Disabled
C1E - Disabled
SVM - Disabled
Core C6 State - Disabled
HPC Mode - Enabled
Amp Master Mode - Disabled



and my bios:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











and this is my topic http://www.overclock.net/t/1512083/help-oc-amd-fx-8320-asus-m5a97-evo-r2-0-hyper-212-evo


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saulgoodman*
> 
> Hello everyone, it's a few weeks ago I read around the forum about the oc of my configuration.
> 
> Case Thermaltake Commander MS-1
> Thermaltake Berlin Smart B630W 80 Plus PFC
> AMD FX 8320
> Cooler Master Ventirad Hyper 212 EVO
> ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0
> Kingston Hyperx Fury Memory Black Memoria RAM DIMM 2x8 GB 1866 MHz
> Scheda video Ati Sapphire R9 280 - 3GB GDDR5
> Western Digital WD10EZEX Caviar BLUE HardDisk SATA 64MB Cache
> 
> I just finished the test with IBT set to very high.
> I received an error at the end of last cycle, but I do not know what is due, I also run in administrator mode.
> 
> 
> 
> while below my bios settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I used the guide in the first post .. about! then with some personal adaptation!)
> 
> I have no idea if the configuration of the bios is set correctly and if the values that I have are good,
> I checked the temperature of the CPU package, for the rest you tell me!
> 
> I can try to increase a little bit multiplier?
> maybe a 4.4 / 4.5 GHz ??
> 
> thanks in advance!


Welcome to the forum.

I see you also use Win8.1.
Don't know why but I also have the same issue with IBT. I know it is pretty stable but I always get the same error after the last run. Just ignore it for the moment and call it stable anyway.
I didn't encounter that problem when I was still using Win7.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> This should help you get a basic understanding of the path required http://www.overclock.net/t/809889/amd-overclocking-timing-guide#post_10483184
> it may be somewhat dated but the basics still apply.
> 
> Secondary timings could be left on auto as bios will adjust them as needed.
> Be sure to leave Dram Driving Control on auto as well.
> 
> As you tighten timings you will see a need for additional Dram voltage. Make small voltage increases and re-test
> If you look at my rig sig you'll see I have the GSkill 1866MHz kit (timings you listed above) and for my needs performance is better at freq/timings listed in sig.
> I haven't spent a lot of time trying to tighten yet but have been able to stabilize this 1866MHz kit even at 2408MHz with your kits timings at 1T.


Thanks for the link dude.
I subbed and will look into it when I have the time, probably somewhere this weekend.

What do you think?
Should I mess with the ram while I leave my cpu at the desired clock?
Or lower the cpu first, and then try to make a good combo later?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Thanks for the link dude.
> I subbed and will look into it when I have the time, probably somewhere this weekend.
> 
> What do you think?
> Should I mess with the ram while I leave my cpu at the desired clock?
> Or lower the cpu first, and then try to make a good combo later?


I OC/tighten the ram last after reaching my goal in other areas of OC
This can lead to a few more tweaks to "Optimize" the system but that's what it's all about right?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I OC/tighten the ram last after reaching my goal in other areas of OC
> This can lead to a few more tweaks to "Optimize" the system but that's what it's all about right?


I thought the same.

Will do.


----------



## LostParticle

Hi,

Absolutely newbie-ish question here, but I prefer to clarify this one:

- When we say that the maximum manual voltage is 1.55V does this mean that 1.55V is the maximum value we can manually enter in the BIOS or it means that 1.55 is the maximum we can see in Windows, when for example, Prime95 is running?

Thank you.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Absolutely newbie-ish question here, but I prefer to clarify this one:
> 
> - When we say that the maximum manual voltage is 1.55V does this mean that 1.55V is the maximum value we can manually enter in the BIOS or it means that 1.55 is the maximum we can see in Windows, when for example, Prime95 is running?
> 
> Thank you.


max voltage goes with your cooling, obviously u cant go 1.55 with subpar cooling, for this u need a custom loop going

a few of us in vishera thread have benched over 1.60vcore...heres a pic of me running 5.1 prime


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> max voltage goes with your cooling, obviously u cant go 1.55 with subpar cooling, for this u need a custom loop going
> 
> a few of us in vishera thread have benched over 1.60vcore...heres a pic of me running 5.1 prime


I have asked a specific question.

- What does max voltage = 1.55V mean? Does it mean that the maximum voltage in the BIOS can be 1.55V or that the maximum value a monitoring tool in Windows shows, should be up to 1.55?

Also, translating the word "subpar" gives me "below the average". IF your opinion is that my CPU cooling is below the average, then : 1) I completely disagree with you, 2) I do not care at all debating on this with you.

Please, answer my specific question with a straight answer or do not bother quoting me / replying to me.

Thank you.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I have asked a specific question.
> 
> - What does max voltage = 1.55V mean? Does it mean that the maximum voltage in the BIOS can be 1.55V or that the maximum value a monitoring tool in Windows shows, should be up to 1.55?
> 
> Also, translating the word "subpar" gives me "below the average". IF your opinion is that my CPU cooling is below the average, then : 1) I completely disagree with you, 2) I do not care at all debating on this with you.
> 
> Please, answer my specific question with a straight answer or do not bother quoting me / replying to me.
> 
> Thank you.


i did answer you

MAX VOLTS ONE CAN PLAY WITH DEPENDS ON YOUR COOLING 1.55volts isnt max volts

yes u have h100 cooling but peeps in vishera thread with h100 cant hit 5ghz cause of the heat of summer

ya dont have to get crappy


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> I have asked a specific question.
> 
> - What does max voltage = 1.55V mean? Does it mean that the maximum voltage in the BIOS can be 1.55V or that the maximum value a monitoring tool in Windows shows, should be up to 1.55?
> 
> Also, translating the word "subpar" gives me "below the average". IF your opinion is that my CPU cooling is below the average, then : 1) I completely disagree with you, 2) I do not care at all debating on this with you.
> 
> Please, answer my specific question with a straight answer or do not bother quoting me / replying to me.
> 
> Thank you.


The max voltage you can both set and see is much higher. Even so high you can instantly kill your chip.
But the max said voltage (1.55v) is the maxed ADVICED voltage.
If you have proper cooling you can go above that though.

And a h110 cpu cooler is by all mean not bad. But it aint gonna cut it if you want to clock with a voltage of 1.55v. No way.

Go find out for yourself.
I think you will see a max of around 1.45-1.48v. That is, keeping your temps at acceptable levels.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> i did answer you
> 
> MAX VOLTS ONE CAN PLAY WITH DEPENDS ON YOUR COOLING 1.55volts isnt max volts
> 
> yes u have h100 cooling but peeps in vishera thread with h100 cant hit 5ghz cause of the heat of summer
> 
> ya dont have to get crappy


I'm not getting "crappy", dunno how it translates exactly, in any case mind your language, and finally, I am NOT going to argue with a native English speaker who already has the benefit of his native language.

You have not answered me. This guide, on the 1st post, states that the maximum manual (safe) voltage is 1.55V. If you do NOT accept this, fine. There must be a limit to the acceptable (safe) max manual voltage, though! If you do not accept the 1.55 limit, I have no problem, but this is what I am seeking:

1.55 in the BIOS or 1.55 to be the MAX V the user will see in a monitoring tool, in Windows?

Summer heat, and the maximum temperatures of my system, are my own problem - and I have not asked your opinion!

All I asked was a specific question.

I have an H110, to be precise.

Please, if you know, answer my question or let somebody else reply

Thanks


----------



## crastakippers

When I read the 1.55v max voltage at the start of the guide I take it exactly like the CPU Core max temp of 62 or the socket max temp of 72. By that I mean, its the recommended threshold that you should not cross. But its your choice based on your own level of knowledge. After you cross that line nothing is guaranteed. Some people choose to cross the line on the temps and the voltage, particularly while stability testing, and do so without problems. Some people chose not to cross any of those boundaries. I shut my tests down when I see 63 or 64 on the core for instance. There may also be motherboards that won't let you exceed 1.55v, I do not know for sure.

This is my own interpretation and I admit know nothing, but the above makes sense to me.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> When I read the 1.55v max voltage at the start of the guide I take it exactly like the CPU Core max temp of 62 or the socket max temp of 72. By that I mean, its the recommended threshold that you should not cross. But its your choice based on your own level of knowledge. After you cross that line nothing is guaranteed. Some people choose to cross the line on the temps and the voltage, particularly while stability testing, and do so without problems. Some people chose not to cross any of those boundaries. I shut my tests down when I see 63 or 64 on the core for instance. There may also be motherboards that won't let you exceed 1.55v, I do not know for sure.
> 
> This is my own interpretation and I admit know nothing, but the above makes sense to me.


Thank you very much for your clear answer!









IF I understood correctly then, you take it that 1.55V is the maximum VCore we should see under Windows (and stress testing) using HWiNFO, for example? Am I right?

Here's the reason I asked this question:

I've started my 5.0 O/C attempt. It is just an attempt and I won't mind if I will not be able to stability-stress test it right now, no problem with that. In the BIOS, I am at 1.531250V right now and it is still unstable, meaning that it fails after 5 minutes of Prime95 Blend-custom 85% ram. It is a simple Multiplier o/c attempt, here are 2 screenshots:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It's just the beginning so I have not touched CPU/NB yet.

To reach 1.55V in the BIOS I need to press the "+" three times. About THAT was my question! Should I set 1.55V in the BIOS, or not? With the current value (1.531250V), VCore in Prime95 has reached 1.56V...! Even with this, it falis (ILLEGAL SUMOUT error). IF I will set 1.55 in the BIOS how high will the VCore go under Prime? Above 1.56 for sure! Will this be dangerous?

This was the reason I asked this question.

CPU LLC = Ultra High
CPU/NB LLC = High



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Note: Last night I even tried at ...5.1 GHz, lol... I was curious. Well....it was failing and failing and I was raising the cpu core voltage. At one point I set it to 1.55, if I recall correctly, and the CPU LLC to extreme (this, I recall correctly). The result: I boot, the PC froze on Windows. Hard reset - wasn't booting. Shut down from the button, shut down the PSU from its button. After 5 minutes I boot, BIOS comes up and says : CPU OverVolt - OC Failed - Press F1 to enter the BIOS. I entered, loaded Optimized Defaults, and here I am today.


----------



## Mega Man

people ( including myself ) pushed 1.6v+ 24/7 without issue i have benched at 1.7 and some @ 1.8 ( 1.7 was the max on the saberkitty at the time i used it the most, since then the cap has been lifted )

your cooling will be your limiting factor,

99% of 83xx/9xxx can not get stable on h100/h100i @ 5ghz, due to heat, it is this that he was talking about.

you may find you cant get it stable any higher, if you do want to, i would recommend going for full custom loop


----------



## LostParticle

OK people, so here's what happened:

- I've raised the CPU manual voltage at 1.55V in the BIOS, and then I started stress testing it again, always with Blend-custom. 85% Ram. After approximately 6 minutes the computer shut down itself. Last time I looked VCORE in HWiNFO64 was at 1.587V, and CPU core and socket temperatures were both around 85-86C. Here now we have an ambient temp of 29,5C, partially cloudy.

When I powered on the PC again, I checked the results.txt of Prime and there was no error, which means that it shut down due to overheating, if I'm not mistaken.

Here's a screenshot of the system's state, after approx. 20 minutes of normal usage (all energy saving features, enabled):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



 
yeah, I monitor all these things, sorry











I will keep these settings and use them for a few days or weeks. They are not tested and I am aware of that, but I want to see what will happen. This is a Home Computer, it is not used for work, study, or anything important. Does anyone know why my VCore doesn't lower down, even though I have the usual power saving features (in the BIOS and in Windows) enabled?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> people ( including myself ) pushed 1.6v+ 24/7 without issue i have benched at 1.7 and some @ 1.8 ( 1.7 was the max on the saberkitty at the time i used it the most, since then the cap has been lifted )
> 
> your cooling will be your limiting factor,
> 
> 99% of 83xx/9xxx can not get stable on h100/h100i @ 5ghz, due to heat, it is this that he was talking about.
> 
> you may find you cant get it stable any higher, if you do want to, i would recommend going for full custom loop


Okay, I understand you, thank you for your reply









Since you've mentioned it, tell me please: IF I would have an AMD FX-9370 in this same system, would I still have heat problems running it at stock or even o/c-ing it a bit? At 5.2?

One last word: it is now, with all this, that I am learning the limits of my system. So far, I have accomplished three O/C profiles: two of 4.8GHz (multiplier, FSB) and my favorite, FSB + Turbo (4.5 going up to 4.8).

After realizing my limits, my dream and my goal is an FSB + Turbo profile like this: 4.8 going up to 5.0









Will I be able to one day achieve it!








What do you think?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> OK people, so here's what happened:
> 
> - I've raised the CPU manual voltage at 1.55V in the BIOS, and then I started stress testing it again, always with Blend-custom. 85% Ram. After approximately 6 minutes the computer shut down itself. Last time I looked VCORE in HWiNFO64 was at 1.587V, and CPU core and socket temperatures were both around 85-86C. Here now we have an ambient temp of 29,5C, partially cloudy.
> 
> When I powered on the PC again, I checked the results.txt of Prime and there was no error, which means that it shut down due to overheating, if I'm not mistaken.
> 
> Here's a screenshot of the system's state, after approx. 20 minutes of normal usage (all energy saving features, enabled):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, I monitor all these things, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will keep these settings and use them for a few days or weeks. They are not tested and I am aware of that, but I want to see what will happen. This is a Home Computer, it is not used for work, study, or anything important. Does anyone know why my VCore doesn't lower down, even though I have the usual power saving features (in the BIOS and in Windows) enabled?
> Okay, I understand you, thank you for your reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you've mentioned it, tell me please: IF I would have an AMD FX-9370 in this same system, would I still have heat problems running it at stock or even o/c-ing it a bit? At 5.2?
> 
> One last word: it is now, with all this, that I am learning the limits of my system. So far, I have accomplished three O/C profiles: two of 4.8GHz (multiplier, FSB) and my favorite, FSB + Turbo (4.5 going up to 4.8).
> 
> After realizing my limits, my dream and my goal is an FSB + Turbo profile like this: 4.8 going up to 5.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will I be able to one day achieve it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?


Wow!

If you are willing to change the cpu in a few months, continue what you are doing now.

85c on the cores? Really?
You did read the first page, did you?
Max recommended temp is 62c on the cores and 72c on the socket.

And No. You are not going to achieve a 4.8 to 5.0(turbo) overclock. At least not with your corrent cooling solution.

Start with trying to make it prime stable.
Using it for days or weeks to see what happens in not the way to go IMO.

If you followed the steps on the first page you know you need to increase in small increments. Starting with stock voltage and upping the Multi untill you encounter errors, then increase vcore and repeat(until you find your desired clock or are nearing the max recommended temps).

And about the FX-9370:
Yes you would still have heat problems. And no, you are most probably not able to overclock that with the h110.
Some of these(if I am not mistaken) won't even run at their rated turbo clock because of the heat.

Can you post screenshots of your bios settings?
So we can advice you on your power savings question.

I don't want to ruin your dream but you really have to go custom when you want that chip to clock that high. At least, when you want it 24/7 stable.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Wow!
> 
> If you are willing to change the cpu in a few months, continue what you are doing now.
> 
> 85c on the cores? Really?
> You did read the first page, did you?
> Max recommended temp is 62c on the cores and 72c on the socket.
> 
> And No. You are not going to achieve a 4.8 to 5.0(turbo) overclock. At least not with your corrent cooling solution.
> 
> Start with trying to make it prime stable.
> Using it for days or weeks to see what happens in not the way to go IMO.
> 
> If you followed the steps on the first page you know you need to increase in small increments. Starting with stock voltage and upping the Multi untill you encounter errors, then increase vcore and repeat(until you find your desired clock or are nearing the max recommended temps).
> 
> And about the FX-9370:
> Yes you would still have heat problems. And no, you are most probably not able to overclock that with the h110.
> Some of these(if I am not mistaken) won't even run at their rated turbo clock because of the heat.
> 
> Can you post screenshots of your bios settings?
> So we can advice you on your power savings question.
> 
> I don't want to ruin your dream but you really have to go custom when you want that chip to clock that high. At least, when you want it 24/7 stable.


It was on this post that I said "Hello" for the first time, right after joining this site. Since then I have achieved three stable (or Prime-stable) O/C profiles, with screenshots of full BIOS settings and the respective Prime95 stress tests' results. All of them can be found in this thread.
Have I read the first post or not, what do you think?

Perhaps you believe that having the CPU at a temperature higher than 62C for a few minutes will ruin it. I do not believe that. I believe that the max safe core temp is around 70 Celsius. I also believe that leaving the CPU running up to its MAX (over 70C), for a few minutes does not destroy or degrade it, that is my personal and subjective opinion, and this is why I do all that I do. I own this FX-8350 for approximately two years and nine months now. IF its time has come, so be it. I started dealing with overclocking around April 2014. One day after my first attempt I went in the bank and I deposited 600€ in my bank account, the maximum amount of cash I would be willing to pay for a new microprocessor and/or motherboard in case something would go terribly wrong with my overclocking attempts. The conclusion is that I am doing all this deliberately and consciously, and I am giving no one the right to judge or to criticize me.

I've read your opinion about the 9370, too bad that it's like that with this one - it was tempting - even though many would argue. I will research it further.

About the VCore of this 5.0GHz profile, after one hour of normal use, HWiNFO64 shows me right now: MIN=1.536 - MAX=1.560. The frequency drops.
The BIOS settings are given at post post #2906 above, with the only exception that CPU manual voltage is set at 1.55V in the BIOS.
In DIGI+ menu I have used exact the same setting as in this guide, 1st post, and my power saving settings are :

Cool n Quiet, C1E, Core C6 State = Enabled.
SVM , HPC Mode = Disabled
APM Master mode = Auto.

I've tried with disabling C1E and even enabling SVM (nothing to do, I know) but it's still the same. VCORE does not drop below 1.536, in Windows.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> It was on this post that I said "Hello" for the first time, right after joining this site. Since then I have achieved three stable (or Prime-stable) O/C profiles, with screenshots of full BIOS settings and the respective Prime95 stress tests' results. All of them can be found in this thread.
> Have I read the first post or not, what do you think?
> 
> Perhaps you believe that having the CPU at a temperature higher than 62C for a few minutes will ruin it. I do not believe that. I believe that the max safe core temp is around 70 Celsius. I also believe that leaving the CPU running up to its MAX (over 70C), for a few minutes does not destroy or degrade it, that is my personal and subjective opinion, and this is why I do all that I do. I own this FX-8350 for approximately two years and nine months now. IF its time has come, so be it. I started dealing with overclocking around April 2014. One day after my first attempt I went in the bank and I deposited 600€ in my bank account, the maximum amount of cash I would be willing to pay for a new microprocessor and/or motherboard in case something would go terribly wrong with my overclocking attempts. The conclusion is that I am doing all this deliberately and consciously, and I am giving no one the right to judge or to criticize me.
> 
> I've read your opinion about the 9370, too bad that it's like that with this one - it was tempting - even though many would argue. I will research it further.
> 
> About the VCore of this 5.0GHz profile, after one hour of normal use, HWiNFO64 shows me right now: MIN=1.536 - MAX=1.560. The frequency drops.
> The BIOS settings are given at post post #2906 above, with the only exception that CPU manual voltage is set at 1.55V in the BIOS.
> In DIGI+ menu I have used exact the same setting as in this guide, 1st post, and my power saving settings are :
> 
> Cool n Quiet, C1E, Core C6 State = Enabled.
> SVM , HPC Mode = Disabled
> APM Master mode = Auto.
> 
> I've tried with disabling C1E and even enabling SVM (nothing to do, I know) but it's still the same. VCORE does not drop below 1.536, in Windows.


Have you tried with the offset option in voltage control(in bios) instead of manual?

And may I ask why you want the voltage to drop in idle state?
Mine doesn't and I am fine with it.

I don't even know if it is supposed to drop. It is different then power saving in GPUs.

All max temps are adviced temps, so do with it what you want. I aint my chip.

But you are kinda hard on the words.
We all just try to give you advice as best as we can. I am not here to argue. Don't want to spent my time doing that.

Cool n Quiet does drop the frequency, right?
That makes your cpu use less power, thus saving.
I wouldn't make to much of a problem of the voltage not dropping.

And the fluctuation in the voltage is normal. Has to do with either your board and/or your LLC settings. The higher the LLC the less vdroop.

You are right, that having the temps higher then recommend briefly doesn't do any/much damage. But it sure is a sign you have crossed a line.
And when it actually showed 80+ degrees you are crossed it pretty bad. But that is my opinion and I am not telling you to do anything.

Do as you like.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Have you tried with the offset option in voltage control(in bios) instead of manual?
> 
> And may I ask why you want the voltage to drop in idle state?
> Mine doesn't and I am fine with it.
> 
> I don't even know if it is supposed to drop. It is different then power saving in GPUs.
> 
> All max temps are adviced temps, so do with it what you want. I aint my chip.
> 
> But you are kinda hard on the words.
> We all just try to give you advice as best as we can. I am not here to argue. Don't want to spent my time doing that.
> 
> Cool n Quiet does drop the frequency, right?
> That makes your cpu use less power, thus saving.
> I wouldn't make to much of a problem of the voltage not dropping.
> 
> And the fluctuation in the voltage is normal. Has to do with either your board and/or your LLC settings. The higher the LLC the less vdroop.
> 
> You are right, that having the temps higher then recommend briefly doesn't do any/much damage. But it sure is a sign you have crossed a line.
> And when it actually showed 80+ degrees you are crossed it pretty bad. But that is my opinion and I am not telling you to do anything.
> 
> Do as you like.


Well...it seems that I was mistaken about the drop of VCore and I apologize for this. I've loaded 2 different oc profiles as well as optimized defaults, and I've checked both with HWiNFO64 and AIDA64 (licensed edition). The fluctuation of the voltage is the same in each one, even though AIDA picked a min of 0.960 or something, on optimized defaults. Apologies then, I was sure though that I've seen it dropping.

I have used the offset both with the plus and the minus signs in my FSB+Turbo oc and the UnderVolting oc successful attempts, respectively. When I attempt via the FSB or the Multi though I prefer the (direct) manual setting.

My apologies to anyone offended, but I don't think I'm hard on my words. It depends on how the other person speaks to me. My apologies, though.

Okay! So! Off I go to try my FSB+Turbo = 4.8 --> 5.0
















Let's hope it will work!

Thanks everyone!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Well...it seems that I was mistaken about the drop of VCore and I apologize for this. I've loaded 2 different oc profiles as well as optimized defaults, and I've checked both with HWiNFO64 and AIDA64 (licensed edition). The fluctuation of the voltage is the same in each one, even though AIDA picked a min of 0.960 or something, on optimized defaults. Apologies then, I was sure though that I've seen it dropping.
> 
> I have used the offset both with the plus and the minus signs in my FSB+Turbo oc and the UnderVolting oc successful attempts, respectively. When I attempt via the FSB or the Multi though I prefer the (direct) manual setting.
> 
> My apologies to anyone offended, but I don't think I'm hard on my words. It depends on how the other person speaks to me. My apologies, though.
> 
> Okay! So! Off I go to try my FSB+Turbo = 4.8 --> 5.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's hope it will work!
> 
> Thanks everyone!


No problem.

Be sure to report back.
Preferably with screens


----------



## Mega Man

i think it is just miscommunication, remember english is not his native language, and most other cultures are far more blunt then americans,

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> OK people, so here's what happened:
> 
> - I've raised the CPU _*manual voltage*_ at 1.55V in the BIOS, and then I started stress testing it again, always with Blend-custom. 85% Ram. After approximately 6 minutes the computer shut down itself. Last time I looked VCORE in HWiNFO64 was at 1.587V, and CPU core and socket temperatures were both around 85-86C. Here now we have an ambient temp of 29,5C, partially cloudy.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> When I powered on the PC again, I checked the results.txt of Prime and there was no error, which means that it shut down due to overheating, if I'm not mistaken.
> 
> Here's a screenshot of the system's state, after approx. 20 minutes of normal usage (all energy saving features, enabled):
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> yeah, I monitor all these things, sorry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will keep these settings and use them for a few days or weeks. They are not tested and I am aware of that, but I want to see what will happen. This is a Home Computer, it is not used for work, study, or anything important. Does anyone know why my VCore doesn't lower down, even though I have the usual power saving features (in the BIOS and in Windows) enabled?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> people ( including myself ) pushed 1.6v+ 24/7 without issue i have benched at 1.7 and some @ 1.8 ( 1.7 was the max on the saberkitty at the time i used it the most, since then the cap has been lifted )
> 
> your cooling will be your limiting factor,
> 
> 99% of 83xx/9xxx can not get stable on h100/h100i @ 5ghz, due to heat, it is this that he was talking about.
> 
> you may find you cant get it stable any higher, if you do want to, i would recommend going for full custom loop
> 
> 
> 
> Okay, I understand you, thank you for your reply
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since you've mentioned it, tell me please: IF I would have an AMD FX-9370 in this same system, would I still have heat problems running it at stock or even o/c-ing it a bit? At 5.2?
> 
> One last word: it is now, with all this, that I am learning the limits of my system. So far, I have accomplished three O/C profiles: two of 4.8GHz (multiplier, FSB) and my favorite, FSB + Turbo (4.5 going up to 4.8).
> 
> After realizing my limits, my dream and my goal is an FSB + Turbo profile like this: 4.8 going up to 5.0
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will I be able to one day achieve it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think?
Click to expand...

that is why it does not "downclock" the voltage

manual is manual. it will always run at that voltage no matter what.

you need offset for it to change voltages

yes you can probably run a 9590 even off of the h100,. however it would be close and very hot. i do not think you will see 5.2 with that cooling solution unless you won the golden silicon lottery


----------



## ad hoc

I just bought a Hyper 212 EVO to OC my 6300, but I'm worried about my motherboard (990FX Extreme3). What should I expect from my board? I've read it has a problem of down-clocking because of weak VRM's.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> i think it is just miscommunication, remember english is not his native language, and most other cultures are far more blunt then americans,
> that is why it does not "downclock" the voltage
> 
> manual is manual. it will always run at that voltage no matter what.
> 
> you need offset for it to change voltages
> 
> yes you can probably run a 9590 even off of the h100,. however it would be close and very hot. i do not think you will see 5.2 with that cooling solution unless you won the golden silicon lottery


Thanks Mega for clearing that up.

But, can you advice him on running offset versus manual?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad hoc*
> 
> I just bought a Hyper 212 EVO to OC my 6300, but I'm worried about my motherboard (990FX Extreme3). What should I expect from my board? I've read it has a problem of down-clocking because of weak VRM's.


If I remember correctly the Extreme 3 has a 4+1 power phase. So that will probably limit your overclock a bit.
But it all comes down to what you have in mind?

It's not by definition a bad board or something.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad hoc*
> 
> I just bought a Hyper 212 EVO to OC my 6300, but I'm worried about my motherboard (990FX Extreme3). What should I expect from my board? I've read it has a problem of down-clocking because of weak VRM's.


You should be able to run 4.4GHz 24/7 with that setup. Let me know if you have any trouble.


----------



## tobyshorkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Piddeman*
> 
> The solution is called Intel...I will sell my AMD PC for a good price so I can get rid of it..
> 
> So tired of having a noicy PC. I want a cool and quiet PC. That still manage to run games at stable frames.


going to intel wont make it quiet especially if youre also going to overclock the intel cpu, you have to go water
once you have a custom loop water, the vidcards heat will be more of a problem than cpu, my amd pc is actually quieter than my intel pc
I suggest to just get those triple rad xspc kits if you don't want to do a custom loop, very simple install
I recently built an amd system for a friend and its surprisingly whisper quiet even with gaming

delidded i7 [email protected] tri-sli 770gtx 1200psu
[email protected] trifire 280x 1300psu


----------



## ad hoc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> You should be able to run 4.4GHz 24/7 with that setup. Let me know if you have any trouble.


Thanks


----------



## zeromeep

Hello everyone, seeing as reading all the updates I see that this is a very active forum and as such I will ask for help regarding overclocking temps on an FX-8320. I have been running this chip at 4.2 – 4.4 usually between volts of 1.308 to 1.414 and have been limited by temps that always floated around 59 – 60+ in some cases when running 4.4Ghz in the upper 70+ using an thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme (first in a push / pull and settled for a push 120mm fan) sorry for the long story anyho I decided to upgrade to the Phanteks ph-tc14pe and have been able to overclock it to 4.6Ghz but temps are still a big limitation as they are climbing up in the high 65-70c even with a fan at the back of the socket. Recent OCCT run at 4.4 @1.38v Core 59c / Socket 60c and 4.6 @1.414 Core 65c - 73c / Socket 65c. DRUM ROLLLLLL, the question ; was I expecting too much from this cooler (Phantek) or is there something wrong here that you can see?? Running all this on a Sabertooth 990fx v1, Corsair 600t case and using the guide for the Asus bios overclock settings in the first pages. Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## tobyshorkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Hello everyone, seeing as reading all the updates I see that this is a very active forum and as such I will ask for help regarding overclocking temps on an FX-8320. I have been running this chip at 4.2 - 4.4 usually between volts of 1.308 to 1.414 and have been limited by temps that always floated around 59 - 60+ in some cases when running 4.4Ghz in the upper 70+ using an thermalright Ultra-120 Extreme (first in a push / pull and settled for a push 120mm fan) sorry for the long story anyho I decided to upgrade to the Phanteks ph-tc14pe and have been able to overclock it to 4.6Ghz but temps are still a big limitation as they are climbing up in the high 65-70c even with a fan at the back of the socket. Recent OCCT run at 4.4 @1.38v Core 59c / Socket 60c and 4.6 @1.414 Core 65c - 73c / Socket 65c. DRUM ROLLLLLL, the question ; was I expecting too much from this cooler (Phantek) or is there something wrong here that you can see?? Running all this on a Sabertooth 990fx v1, Corsair 600t case and using the guide for the Asus bios overclock settings in the first pages. Thanks in advance for any advice.


I used a h100 before to cool an 8320 and it was hot, the h100 is more or less the same performance as the phanteks tc, if you want to cool down these cpus, its better to go to water, I suggest to get the xspc 360 for starters, I think its a bargain cooler for the value, with the money you used for the thermalright and the phanteks, you probably could have bought an xspc kit


----------



## zeromeep

I was looking into that option just recently from other members post on this forum about the XSPC line or kits. They sound great and the cost isnt bad. I purchased the thermalright 120 5+ years ago when the 939 sockets were all the rage so cost wise I have just paid $80 bucks for the Phantek so I would have to invest and additional $100 bucks +(return phantek) to purchase a watercooling kit. I think with your reply that I am at the thermal limits with AIR even with the high end coolers unless i settle for 4.4Ghz or i could invest in TY-140 fans or NF-A14 fans but the cost @$20 each ($40) its better to go water. Now thinking the Phantek was not that much of an upgrade for 200mhz of additional clock speed. hmmmm...... any thoughts as to what i could do to improve my cooling beside putting it next to the air conditioning outlet


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> I was looking into that option just recently from other members post on this forum about the XSPC line or kits. They sound great and the cost isnt bad. I purchased the thermalright 120 5+ years ago when the 939 sockets were all the rage so cost wise I have just paid $80 bucks for the Phantek so I would have to invest and additional $100 bucks +(return phantek) to purchase a watercooling kit. I think with your reply that I am at the thermal limits with AIR even with the high end coolers unless i settle for 4.4Ghz or i could invest in TY-140 fans or NF-A14 fans but the cost @$20 each ($40) its better to go water. Now thinking the Phantek was not that much of an upgrade for 200mhz of additional clock speed. hmmmm...... any thoughts as to what i could do to improve my cooling beside putting it next to the air conditioning outlet


Yeah I have been using a h100 also.
Cooled down my previous chip pretty good(Phenom 955), but these chips just put out serious heat. Especially when a little volt increase comes to play.

I've upgraded to a custom loop(you can see it in my sig).
It is up to you what you want to spend and what your goal is. What clock are you looking at? And why?

Most chips tend to hit the voltage wall at around 4.6-4.7ghz. Behind that a big bump is needed mostly. Mine is pretty stable at 4.8ghz with voltage around 1.48v.
Air cooling is not gonna cool that down.

Are you able to still return the Phanteks? Seems weird since you already used it....


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are you able to still return the Phanteks? Seems weird since you already used it....


I have only used it for about a week and i would of course have to most likely pay a restocking fee but it would be negledgible.

I guess after reviewing the online forums and you tube video's on FX-8320's and members getting overclocks of 4.5 - 4.8 Ghz on air with the Noctua and Phantek coolers I drank the Kool-Aid and bought one online thinking I would hit these speeds as i was already getting 4.2 - 4.4 using the Thermalright 120 with decent temps so this one (Phantek) should be better and allow me to scale down temps to reach higher clocks. My choice to go AIR vs Water was the fear of leaks and of course cost as most starter kits (good ones) start at $150 - $200+.

I would like to hit 4.6 Ghz, why?? dont know.. is there a real difference vs 4.4Ghz (most likely not) for what i do, little encoding and FPS games but of course that's what overclocking is all about, pushing your system to the edge... (or something like that)


----------



## tobyshorkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> I was looking into that option just recently from other members post on this forum about the XSPC line or kits. They sound great and the cost isnt bad. I purchased the thermalright 120 5+ years ago when the 939 sockets were all the rage so cost wise I have just paid $80 bucks for the Phantek so I would have to invest and additional $100 bucks +(return phantek) to purchase a watercooling kit. I think with your reply that I am at the thermal limits with AIR even with the high end coolers unless i settle for 4.4Ghz or i could invest in TY-140 fans or NF-A14 fans but the cost @$20 each ($40) its better to go water. Now thinking the Phantek was not that much of an upgrade for 200mhz of additional clock speed. hmmmm...... any thoughts as to what i could do to improve my cooling beside putting it next to the air conditioning outlet


I think at 4.6, it will be all up to you if you want to get a good water kit, my 8320 hit a wall at 4.8, It required a lot more voltage after that which I think is not worth it just to get the extra 200 mhz at 5 ghz all the time so I lowered it to 4.8, my board is the crosshairV with a 1300w psu,
I guess it may not be worth it to get a water kit just to go a few extra MHz but if you want it to run cooler and less noise then getting a good water kit will be nice, the only reason I had to push the 8320 to the limit so it wont bottleneck too much the 3 280x it is running with, looking at your sig, I think you will benefit more getting another vidcard


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobyshorkie*
> 
> I think at 4.6, it will be all up to you if you want to get a good water kit, my 8320 hit a wall at 4.8, It required a lot more voltage after that which I think is not worth it just to get the extra 200 mhz at 5 ghz all the time so I lowered it to 4.8, my board is the crosshairV with a 1300w psu,
> I guess it may not be worth it to get a water kit just to go a few extra MHz but if you want it to run cooler and less noise then getting a good water kit will be nice, the only reason I had to push the 8320 to the limit so it wont bottleneck too much the 3 280x it is running with, looking at your sig, I think you will benefit more getting another vidcard


I agree with you.

I bought the custom loop because I wanted to.
Really I spend around 400 euro to cool a ~150 euro cpu. Crazy? Maybe. But I just wanted water. And decided to buy decent parts from the start.

It also gives me headroom when I want to expand the loop in the future.

Is it worth it for just a 8320? I don't think so.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I bought the custom loop because I wanted to.
> Really I spend around 400 euro to cool a ~150 euro cpu. Crazy? Maybe. But I just wanted water. And decided to buy decent parts from the start.


Crazy.... Well were all a little crazy for doing what we do. Thanks for the info and you guys are right, I can invest in other parts first like an additional video card to boost performance to match the cpu output. I guess ill save up for a water kit, what do you think of the XSPC line, checking them out online there are so many to choose from but with a little mod/cut i saw a video at OC3D that fit the 360 rad on top of the corsair 600t. looks like something i could do in the future but there is an RX, AX and EX version. which would be a good investment?

oh and this morning after a few tweaks i managed to get [email protected] with the Package / Core temp at 63 - 65c on Prime95 so i think ill settle on this for now or until tomorrow


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Crazy.... Well were all a little crazy for doing what we do. Thanks for the info and you guys are right, I can invest in other parts first like an additional video card to boost performance to match the cpu output. I guess ill save up for a water kit, what do you think of the XSPC line, checking them out online there are so many to choose from but with a little mod/cut i saw a video at OC3D that fit the 360 rad on top of the corsair 600t. looks like something i could do in the future but there is an RX, AX and EX version. which would be a good investment?
> 
> oh and this morning after a few tweaks i managed to get [email protected] with the Package / Core temp at 63 - 65c on Prime95 so i think ill settle on this for now or until tomorrow


AX>RX>EX IMO

Just get whatever fits your budget the most.

The RX has the lowest FPI if I am right. Fins Per Inch.
Allowing you to use lower RPM fans so less noise. AX performs better but needs higher static pressure fans, thus more noise.

Hope this helps.

I have a Alphacool 360 UT60. Also low fpi so I run my 3 fans mostly @ 800 rpm.

Have a look here: Martins Roundup.
I've read allot there before I went water.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> I have only used it for about a week and i would of course have to most likely pay a restocking fee but it would be negledgible.
> 
> I guess after reviewing the online forums and you tube video's on FX-8320's and members getting overclocks of 4.5 - 4.8 Ghz on air with the Noctua and Phantek coolers I drank the Kool-Aid and bought one online thinking I would hit these speeds as i was already getting 4.2 - 4.4 using the Thermalright 120 with decent temps so this one (Phantek) should be better and allow me to scale down temps to reach higher clocks. My choice to go AIR vs Water was the fear of leaks and of course cost as most starter kits (good ones) start at $150 - $200+.
> 
> I would like to hit 4.6 Ghz, why?? dont know.. is there a real difference vs 4.4Ghz (most likely not) for what i do, little encoding and FPS games but of course that's what overclocking is all about, pushing your system to the edge... (or something like that)


You really should visit the air cooling forum and chat with the experts there. You case looks like it has good airflow but your temps say the hot air is not getting out and is just recirculating around inside it.

The Phantek cooler is arguably better than the one I'm using and it can cool a 9590.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You really should visit the air cooling forum and chat with the experts there. You case looks like it has good airflow but your temps say the hot air is not getting out and is just recirculating around inside it.
> 
> The Phantek cooler is arguably better than the one I'm using and it can cool a 9590.


Thanks and I'll give that forum a try and see what they recommend. From what I gather it's "go water or go home"







buy maybe it's just bad airflow. I have a 200mm in front and 120mm exhaust @1250+ rpm and two 120mm on top exhaust. I used the 200mm top and placed it on the back of the motherboard to give air to the back of the socket which lowered it from 70+c to 60c. Phantek comes with 2 140mm but I do feel hot air getting trapped between last tower and rear exhaust right on top of vcore mosfets and vcore 1 gets pretty toasty. Maybe that is limiting my overclock?


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Thanks and I'll give that forum a try and see what they recommend. From what I gather it's "go water or go home"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> buy maybe it's just bad airflow. I have a 200mm in front and 120mm exhaust @1250+ rpm and two 120mm on top exhaust. I used the 200mm top and placed it on the back of the motherboard to give air to the back of the socket which lowered it from 70+c to 60c. Phantek comes with 2 140mm but I do feel hot air getting trapped between last tower and rear exhaust right on top of vcore mosfets and vcore 1 gets pretty toasty. Maybe that is limiting my overclock?


Two things.

1. Big fans can move a lot of air but can not provide any push. If there is resistance they do not move any air.

2. That case exhaust fan is a bottleneck. Remove it and also cut out the grill so there is just a big gaping hole there. Leave the fan mounting holes as you might want to put something there. Also, remove the I/O panel. It blocks air flow and creates a dead zone right over the VRMs. Look at my sig rig and click on the pic. There are two pics there that kinda show what I'm talking about. Oh, the pic with the single tower cooler? The 8350 under it is running at 4.6ghz.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Two things.
> 
> 1. Big fans can move a lot of air but can not provide any push. If there is resistance they do not move any air.
> 
> 2. That case exhaust fan is a bottleneck. Remove it and also cut out the grill so there is just a big gaping hole there. Leave the fan mounting holes as you might want to put something there. Also, remove the I/O panel. It blocks air flow and creates a dead zone right over the VRMs. Look at my sig rig and click on the pic. There are two pics there that kinda show what I'm talking about. Oh, the pic with the single tower cooler? The 8350 under it is running at 4.6ghz.


I do agree on removing the rear exhaust fan.


----------



## LostParticle

HI









I have finally succeeded!









BIOS settings


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



 
 




Prime95, Blend-custom, 12,2GB of ram, 12 hours, room temperature = 28,5 C


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Memory benchmark


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







It feels great stabilizing this one! It will become my everyday profile! Also, the computer sleeps (S3 state) and wakes up perfectly - I am not facing the problem I have with my other FSB+Turbo profile.

I will stress-test this profile further using other stability tools, as well, like IBT AVX, x264_Benchmark_HD_v5.0.1 and others but I will not do this right now.

I have also updated and I post my Excel sheet, where I keep the values of all my successful o/c attempts, hoping to help anyone who'd need it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







With this successful overclocking attempt I have finished with overclocking my computer. I will make one last effort to achieve stability at 5.0GHz, using the multiplier and/or the FSB, but I will attempt this only when the ambient temperature will drop below 20C, here.

Thank you.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> HI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have finally succeeded!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BIOS settings
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prime95, Blend-custom, 12,2GB of ram, 12 hours, room temperature = 28,5 C
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Memory benchmark
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It feels great stabilizing this one! It will become my everyday profile! Also, the computer sleeps (S3 state) and wakes up perfectly - I am not facing the problem I have with my other FSB+Turbo profile.
> 
> I will stress-test this profile further using other stability tools, as well, like IBT AVX, x264_Benchmark_HD_v5.0.1 and others but I will not do this right now.
> 
> I will also try to update and post my Excel sheet, where I keep the values of all my successful o/c attempts.
> 
> With this successful overclocking attempt I have finished with overclocking my computer. I will make one last effort to achieve stability at 5.0GHz, using the multiplier and/or the FSB, but I will attempt this only when the ambient temperature will drop below 20C, here.
> 
> Thank you.


Congrats on the clock.
Is that the least voltage that will do?

And what now?
Are you done?
Will you switch to another cpu?


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I do agree on removing the rear exhaust fan.


I uploaded some picture's of the layout I have and where the hot zone is in between the rear case fan and the Phantek tower. If i was to remove the rear case fan would the hot air coming out of the heatsink just sit there creating more of a heat issue?

another thing that is weird (or not







) is tower 1 as labeled in the photo stays cool / cold to the touch and tower 2 (rear) stays warm / hot when stress testing with cpu core temps @63-65c is this normal? or is it that hot air being trapped in that dead zone. would another 140mm phantek fan be advisable so there is 3 cpu fans in total be more practical and remove the rear case fan?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> HI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have finally succeeded!


Congratulations nice overclock feels good when prime doesn't fail and just keeps chugging along....


----------



## zeromeep

Quick question LostParticle in your first bios setting image, how did you get c6 state or CnQ to enable multiplier lowering while in idle when you set the CPU Ratio manually and also the FSB? when i change the CPU ratio from AUTO to a manual number (ie 23x) at idle with CnQ enabled it will not lower clock speeds?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> I uploaded some picture's of the layout I have and where the hot zone is in between the rear case fan and the Phantek tower. If i was to remove the rear case fan would the hot air coming out of the heatsink just sit there creating more of a heat issue?
> 
> another thing that is weird (or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) is tower 1 as labeled in the photo stays cool / cold to the touch and tower 2 (rear) stays warm / hot when stress testing with cpu core temps @63-65c is this normal? or is it that hot air being trapped in that dead zone. would another 140mm phantek fan be advisable so there is 3 cpu fans in total be more practical and remove the rear case fan?
> Congratulations nice overclock feels good when prime doesn't fail and just keeps chugging along....


Tower 1 being colder I think is normal. As that one is in push/pull.

You can try and move the front fan to the back side of tower 1 to see if there is a difference.

You can also try and mount the rear exhaust fan externally and see if that helps.

Adding another fan to tower 2 will block airflow over the vrm's even more I think.

What I would try if I were you is turning the front top fan around so it is intake blowing air to the front fan of your cpu cooler.

What are the temps of your vrm anyway? I can't remember you posted it.
If the temps are ok I wouldn't worry about it too much.


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Quick question LostParticle in your first bios setting image, how did you get c6 state or CnQ to enable multiplier lowering while in idle when you set the CPU Ratio manually and also the FSB? when i change the CPU ratio from AUTO to a manual number (ie 23x) at idle with CnQ enabled it will not lower clock speeds?


Hello, forgive me, I am not a native English speaker. I will tell you exactly what I do, hoping this will help you.

- I set the values in the BIOS, as you see it.
- In Windows, I open power options, change advanced power settings (I always use the High performance plan), I scroll down to processor power management, open Minimum processor state, change it to 0% even if it is already there, Apply and OK.

This is how it works in my system. Hope I've helped.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello, forgive me, I am not a native English speaker. I will tell you exactly what I do, hoping this will help you.
> 
> - I set the values in the BIOS, as you see it.
> - In Windows, I open power options, change advanced power settings (I always use the High performance plan), I scroll down to processor power management, open Minimum processor state, change it to 0% even if it is already there, Apply and OK.
> 
> This is how it works in my system. Hope I've helped.


Yeah it is probably software related.

I set the cpu power in catalyst control centre. You can also try that.
There is a bar there which set the max and min cpu clock


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Congrats on the clock.
> Is that the least voltage that will do?
> 
> And what now?
> Are you done?
> Will you switch to another cpu?


Thank you very much, nice of you









Now I will enjoy my computer because there are quite a few awesome TV series I would like to watch. After a couple of days or even weeks, I will stress test this profile again using the other stability tools I've already mentioned and/or Prime again. In those tests I might try to lower the VCore a bit. The truth is that, before this successful attempt, my computer managed to pass eleven (11) hours of Prime95, blend-custom, 85% ram, with the FSB set at 247, which brought the maximum Core clock in HWiNFO at around 5.147MHz or something! Sorry, I do not recall exactly but for sure it was above 5.100 MHz. It failed after 11 hours.

Finally, I will keep my current CPU and switch to Intel after approximately a year and a half, depending from the conditions of that period.

Have a nice day.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> I uploaded some picture's of the layout I have and where the hot zone is in between the rear case fan and the Phantek tower. If i was to remove the rear case fan would the hot air coming out of the heatsink just sit there creating more of a heat issue?
> 
> another thing that is weird (or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) is tower 1 as labeled in the photo stays cool / cold to the touch and tower 2 (rear) stays warm / hot when stress testing with cpu core temps @63-65c is this normal? or is it that hot air being trapped in that dead zone. would another 140mm phantek fan be advisable so there is 3 cpu fans in total be more practical and remove the rear case fan?
> Congratulations nice overclock feels good when prime doesn't fail and just keeps chugging along....


You have 2 large powerful fans on that cooler pushing air at a small weak case fan. It is just getting in the way and blocking airflow. Remove all restrictions to exhaust flow.

As to the case top fans, the front one should be an intake to feed the Phantek fans and I found on my case thar removing the rear fan lowered temps.

Is it possible to mount your optical drive in the lowest slot and then mount a 120mm fan above it blowing directly back at the Phantek?

I have three front intakes and one top front intakes for 4 intake fans and no case exhaust fans. Just the 2 powerful cooler fans. When all fans are running 100% it still has slight negative pressure.

I use Aerocool Sharks. There are better fans but I want leds so I can see when the filters need cleaning.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Quick question LostParticle in your first bios setting image, how did you get c6 state or CnQ to enable multiplier lowering while in idle when you set the CPU Ratio manually and also the FSB? when i change the CPU ratio from AUTO to a manual number (ie 23x) at idle with CnQ enabled it will not lower clock speeds?


Make sure to run "Offset Voltage" for both CPU and CPU/NB.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hello, forgive me, I am not a native English speaker. I will tell you exactly what I do, hoping this will help you.
> 
> - I set the values in the BIOS, as you see it.
> - In Windows, I open power options, change advanced power settings (I always use the High performance plan), I scroll down to processor power management, open Minimum processor state, change it to 0% even if it is already there, Apply and OK.
> 
> This is how it works in my system. Hope I've helped.


Thanks, your English and instructions were spot on, after I changed the value in windows power settings, voila it worked after a reboot








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You have 2 large powerful fans on that cooler pushing air at a small weak case fan. It is just getting in the way and blocking airflow. Remove all restrictions to exhaust flow.


Sorry been MIA as for the last question from Chopper1591 posted a few back, the vrm's were getting into the high 70's c as far as AI Suite reported. I will remove the rear case fan and remove the top case fans and just leave the front 120mm but change direction so it will be used as an Intake right infront of the 1st Phantek tower. One pet-peeve about this case is the rear fan only has a 120mm hole placement so no large fan can be used there. I placed a Scythe S-Flex SFF21F that has a high cfm / rpm that i though might contend with the 140mm fans but your right it doesn't seem like its optimal. Ultimately I need better case fans and the Aerocool Sharks look good.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Make sure to run "Offset Voltage" for both CPU and CPU/NB.


thanks sandman for that info, i learned this the hard way before when i changed the voltage manually so CnQ would enable and lower clock speed at idle but Cpu volts would not change to match clock speeds.

after a little more tweaks i managed to get it to 4.6Ghz (straight Multiplier OC of 23x200 vs FSB OC) with temps in the 63-67c under Prime95 SmallFFT / OCCT with 1.414v but i had to remove all case doors and run at night with room temps in the 23c range. I cant get Prime95 to go past 6 min of Blended but will do 30min+ of smallFFT (will test longer once i get temps and volts settled). Could it be that i have 4 sticks of ram running and putting to much stress on the IMC?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Thanks and I'll give that forum a try and see what they recommend. From what I gather it's "go water or go home"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> buy maybe it's just bad airflow. I have a 200mm in front and 120mm exhaust @1250+ rpm and two 120mm on top exhaust. I used the 200mm top and placed it on the back of the motherboard to give air to the back of the socket which lowered it from 70+c to 60c. Phantek comes with 2 140mm but I do feel hot air getting trapped between last tower and rear exhaust right on top of vcore mosfets and vcore 1 gets pretty toasty. Maybe that is limiting my overclock?
> 
> 
> 
> Two things.
> 
> 1. Big fans can move a lot of air but can not provide any push. If there is resistance they do not move any air.
> 
> 2. That case exhaust fan is a bottleneck. Remove it and also cut out the grill so there is just a big gaping hole there. Leave the fan mounting holes as you might want to put something there. Also, remove the I/O panel. It blocks air flow and creates a dead zone right over the VRMs. Look at my sig rig and click on the pic. There are two pics there that kinda show what I'm talking about. Oh, the pic with the single tower cooler? The 8350 under it is running at 4.6ghz.
Click to expand...

what he said....

OR
just add a good high static pressure fan then you dont need to do the above
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Quick question LostParticle in your first bios setting image, how did you get c6 state or CnQ to enable multiplier lowering while in idle when you set the CPU Ratio manually and also the FSB? when i change the CPU ratio from AUTO to a manual number (ie 23x) at idle with CnQ enabled it will not lower clock speeds?


you have to set CNQ to always on, use offset voltage ( NOT MANUAL ) and ( or on /enable ) and do what he says to do in windows


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Crazy.... Well were all a little crazy for doing what we do. Thanks for the info and you guys are right, I can invest in other parts first like an additional video card to boost performance to match the cpu output. I guess ill save up for a water kit, what do you think of the XSPC line, checking them out online there are so many to choose from but with a little mod/cut i saw a video at OC3D that fit the 360 rad on top of the corsair 600t. looks like something i could do in the future but there is an RX, AX and EX version. which would be a good investment?
> 
> oh and this morning after a few tweaks i managed to get [email protected] with the Package / Core temp at 63 - 65c on Prime95 so i think ill settle on this for now or until tomorrow


I'm liking both XSPC rads in my rig (check rig sig photo) RX 360 and EX 140
My first setup ran a 360 mounted externally on the back side of case. External mounting is an option.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Thanks, your English and instructions were spot on, after I changed the value in windows power settings, voila it worked after a reboot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry been MIA as for the last question from Chopper1591 posted a few back, the vrm's were getting into the high 70's c as far as AI Suite reported. I will remove the rear case fan and remove the top case fans and just leave the front 120mm but change direction so it will be used as an Intake right infront of the 1st Phantek tower. One pet-peeve about this case is the rear fan only has a 120mm hole placement so no large fan can be used there. I placed a Scythe S-Flex SFF21F that has a high cfm / rpm that i though might contend with the 140mm fans but your right it doesn't seem like its optimal. Ultimately I need better case fans and the Aerocool Sharks look good.
> thanks sandman for that info, i learned this the hard way before when i changed the voltage manually so CnQ would enable and lower clock speed at idle but Cpu volts would not change to match clock speeds.
> 
> after a little more tweaks i managed to get it to 4.6Ghz (straight Multiplier OC of 23x200 vs FSB OC) with temps in the 63-67c under Prime95 SmallFFT / OCCT with 1.414v but i had to remove all case doors and run at night with room temps in the 23c range. I cant get Prime95 to go past 6 min of Blended but will do 30min+ of smallFFT (will test longer once i get temps and volts settled). Could it be that i have 4 sticks of ram running and putting to much stress on the IMC?


IHMO you're fighting too high of temps causing instability. ACing usually hits the limit about 4.6GHz.
I believe you'd have better luck if max was under 55 to 60c.

Indirectly it could be the use of four Dimms if they're OC'd, but stock and under 2400MHz shouldn't be that big of issue on the IMC.
Yes two Dimms does create less stress, especially when OC'd.
More than likely just high ambient and lack of cooling solution.

I'd need more info such as dram settings, NB freq, current CPU/NB voltage etc.
Best if you could post a snip of HWInfo64 with useful info showing (not just 8 x CPU freq or something lol.
Rename things so it's easy for those helping you, like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## LostParticle

Hi guys









I have an OFF TOPIC question, please.

Here is a screenshot of the directory I keep my Stability tools:



From all those which ones are the recommended / appropriate for stability stress testing of the AMD FX-8350?
I have only used Prime95, so far. (I have also used OCCT, for 15' max).

Also, do you happen to know how much time does the x264 test require to complete?

Thank you


----------



## zeromeep

Will do Sandman, appreciate all the help. Removed the rear case fan and put all case doors back on and temps went through the roof.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LostParticle*
> 
> Hi guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have an OFF TOPIC question, please.
> 
> Here is a screenshot of the directory I keep my Stability tools:
> 
> 
> 
> From all those which ones are the recommended / appropriate for stability stress testing of the AMD FX-8350?
> I have only used Prime95, so far. (I have also used OCCT, for 15' max).
> 
> Also, do you happen to know how much time does the x264 test require to complete?
> 
> Thank you


Personally I do about 20 runs of ibt-avx on normal/standard or 10 minutes of prime smallFFTs to do a quick test.
10 runs ibt-avx on very high to test more extensive.
And preferably 12 hours or more of prime blend with 75-80% ram usage to test the final clock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> 
> Will do Sandman, appreciate all the help. Removed the rear case fan and put all case doors back on and temps went through the roof.


Try a cooler re-mount if you haven't already.
No way your cpu temp increases by removing the exhaust fan.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> No way your cpu temp increases by removing the exhaust fan.


Last run was done with both case doors off and at night with room kinda cold maybe 20c. This test I put case doors back on and only removed back case fan but I think I'll give up on this overclock as others have said these chips run hot and maybe 4.4 Ghz is the limit for the cooling I have. The truth is hard some times


----------



## LostParticle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Personally I do about 20 runs of ibt-avx on normal/standard or 10 minutes of prime smallFFTs to do a quick test.
> 10 runs ibt-avx on very high to test more extensive.
> And preferably 12 hours or more of prime blend with 75-80% ram usage to test the final clock.


Okay, thank you for the suggestions.

I will start using IBT-AVX, as well. I have downloaded the appropriate version from this thread. Regarding this test I will quote another member who said to me : "_Results that are not 3.* are invalid, even if it says it passes. GFLOPS should be over 70._"

I will also use the x264 benchmark to simulate intensive everyday usage, since I never encode anything.

Finally, when stress testing for stability I start with Prime95 , Blend custom, 85% ram. In the beginning I used to run 10 minutes of Small FFTs, too. According to my (very little) experience though, Small FFTs will produce an error only if you are way out with the voltage settings or your settings, in general. In almost every stability stress test I could pass Small FFTs with an X vcore, only to find out that it would require an X+2 to X+3 notches, IF I say it correctly, to pass the 12hours Blend custom test. So, now I start with the Blend-custom, directly.

I've run the IBT-AVX a bit, too, today. With the ambient temperature at 29C, the CPU core temperature raised to 71C. So, I will leave it for colder days.

Thank you


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what he said....
> 
> OR
> just add a good high static pressure fan then you dont need to do the above
> you have to set CNQ to always on, use offset voltage ( NOT MANUAL ) and ( or on /enable ) and do what he says to do in windows


Umm been there done that. With 2 fans pushing an effective 122cfm any case exhaust fan quieter than a jet engine is just blocking air flow. His problem is no air flowing through the case.


----------



## TheLandstander

I'm still new to multicore processors, but I've been seeing something I don't understand.

Using HCenc (an mpeg2 encoder) that supports multiprocessors I find CPU utilization hovering around 25%.

Is that a question of some energy saving chip feature (like CnQ), something else bottlenecking it, or something wrong with my overclock?

I've seen some other programs I'd expect to max out the CPU usage run less than what is available. Thoughts?


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I'm still new to multicore processors, but I've been seeing something I don't understand.
> 
> Using HCenc (an mpeg2 encoder) that supports multiprocessors I find CPU utilization hovering around 25%.
> 
> Is that a question of some energy saving chip feature (like CnQ), something else bottlenecking it, or something wrong with my overclock?
> 
> I've seen some other programs I'd expect to max out the CPU usage run less than what is available. Thoughts?


It might just be the encoder software that your using, might not really be optimized for multi-core usage. 7zip has multi-core support although it does what you explained, using 25% (more or less) of all cores but when I use Handbrake a software to encode movies to apple format it uses 100% of all cores as shown when i open up Windows task manager and see the cpu state under performance tab.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Umm been there done that. With 2 fans pushing an effective 122cfm any case exhaust fan quieter than a jet engine is just blocking air flow. His problem is no air flowing through the case.


funny you should say that, just yesterday I was about to give up on reaching my 4.6ghz goal and this morning i decided to rearrange my fan set up to see if i could get better temps. Well i took off the dual 120 mm top exhaust and put back the 200 mm fan back in reversed so its pushing air into the case and put back the rear exhaust fan to take some of the hot air out, also re-seated my Phantek with new thermal-paste and this is what i got now.



placed a amd cpu fan (pulled off original stock heatsink) on top of vrm's like in the first post. Although now it sounds like a Jet Engine







it did not fail the AIDA64 stress test after 40 min. and temps stayed below 60c core. What do you guys think, am i on the right path.....

ohh and i took out 2 sticks of ram so now i have 2 (4)gig sticks and Instead a straight multi overclock (23x200fsb) I have a (20x230fsb) if that makes a difference.


----------



## DigDeep

AIDA 64 stress test is not good enough. You need Prime 95 or IBT AVX.


----------



## miklkit

My puter got hacked last week and I lost everything on the hard drive so I can't just throw up a comparison from a year or more ago. It is not running well yet but I did manage to get this run in.

I'm not bragging but comparing them. You have what the experts consider the better cooler but I'm running faster with a lot more vcore at pretty much the same temps. Why? Better case airflow.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> My puter got hacked last week and I lost everything on the hard drive so I can't just throw up a comparison from a year or more ago. It is not running well yet but I did manage to get this run in.
> 
> I'm not bragging but comparing them. You have what the experts consider the better cooler but I'm running faster with a lot more vcore at pretty much the same temps. Why? Better case airflow.
> ]


That's what I though too when I bought the Phantek that I would get these crazy low temps but everything I have tried, temps still are an issue or at least at the clock speed / volts I want to achieve. I essentially have the same case as Chopper1591 as he has a corsair 650D (inside of case is identical) to my 600T but he is running water for cooling. Your sig list you have a SILVERSTONE Tundra Series TD03 ALL-IN-ONE Liquid Cooler which looks like an Corsair H80i vs mine where it really depends on case temps as hot air is just being recycled unless i start making big holes everywhere and yeh your running some high VCORE volts (@1.576+) vs my 1.414v of course yours is an 8350 so you may not have to push it as much as your's is binned at a higher clock speed even though there all based off the same chip. Others have said its the Sabertooth 990fx that runs hot (socket) and have even placed a fan in the back of the motherboard to control socket temps. I have to become creative as a Water kit is still out of my price range and as others have stated too cost vs performance at this point makes no sense, maybe when I have saved up for it. I can run IBT and Prime95 smallfft but eventually i will burn out my socket or chip which will cost more in the long run. Nice overclock though and your temps are something i would love to have.....


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> AIDA 64 stress test is not good enough. You need Prime 95 or IBT AVX.


Well folks here it is, temps that are high I know but as this is an unrealistic usage of CPU power temps will never reach this high and at this point its something i can live with.










was peaking at 66c at some points but again temps in real life usage will not hit this high.



Final 10 runs with VERY HIGH settings profile pass, I know this isnt a final say in the STABLE overclock world but for me its a small win so i will enjoy it for a while.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Well folks here it is, temps that are high I know but as this is an unrealistic usage of CPU power temps will never reach this high and at this point its something i can live with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> was peaking at 66c at some points but again temps in real life usage will not hit this high.
> 
> 
> 
> Final 10 runs with VERY HIGH settings profile pass, I know this isnt a final say in the STABLE overclock world but for me its a small win so i will enjoy it for a while.


You didn't use IBT-avx, did you?
Judging by the scores you used the normal IBT, which is a tad lighter.

But anyway.
Now it is time to do a prime blend with 75-80% ram usage for ~12 hours.

The temps look ok to me. Like you said, these are under very high load which you will most likely not see in daily usage.
The cores are a bit over the recommended but that's okay, as long as it happens for brief periods.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> what he said....
> 
> OR
> just add a good high static pressure fan then you dont need to do the above
> you have to set CNQ to always on, use offset voltage ( NOT MANUAL ) and ( or on /enable ) and do what he says to do in windows
> 
> 
> 
> Umm been there done that. With 2 fans pushing an effective 122cfm any case exhaust fan quieter than a jet engine is just blocking air flow. His problem is no air flowing through the case.
Click to expand...

cfm is a poor standard of fans, as is static pressure, however it is a better standard, you need a pq chart, however 99% of fans do not have these, which is why i recommend static pressure,
but anyway. CFM means nothing, and changes with higher restriction. ( like a heatsink )

you need pressure to push through the HS/fan grill/filter


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> cfm is a poor standard of fans, as is static pressure, however it is a better standard, you need a pq chart, however 99% of fans do not have these, which is why i recommend static pressure,
> but anyway. CFM means nothing, and changes with higher restriction. ( like a heatsink )
> 
> you need pressure to push through the HS/fan grill/filter


Agreed.
I see too many people that say, no but I have very good fans. They do 2000rpm and 150cfm. But the air coming through the rad or fins is actually 20cfm or something.









Am happy with my Gentle Typhoons though. My rad likes them, even at 800rpm.


----------



## DigDeep

Some say that NB overclock does nothing on fx chip. Well in my case it lowers the latency from 60ns to 54ns- amd raises performance of L3 cache

and thats just from 2200 to 2400mhz.





I think thats not little


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> Some say that NB overclock does nothing on fx chip. Well in my case it lowers the latency from 60ns to 54ns- amd raises performance of L3 cache
> 
> and thats just from 2200 to 2400mhz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think thats not little


I don't know where you got that info.
Overclocking NB can make a difference, but mostly with higher clocked ram.

it doesn't hurt to try and compare though.
Try higher and see if there is a difference. You will probably need more cpu-nb voltage for that though.


----------



## miklkit

1. You misread my sig rig. I am using the Silverstone Heligon HE01 twin tower air cooler with 2 fans.

2. No sheeite sherlock. The fans on the HE01 are rated @ 171 cfm but when tested in an open case they flow 141 cfm and in an average case they only flow 121 cfm. That makes them about the same as the TY-143 which doesn't drop as bad.
In normal use this case has positive pressure but when all fans are at 100% it has slight negative pressure. When stress testing the 9590 @ 5 ghz the temps are in the 59-62C range.

3. Siverstone is making a GT clone now. Methinks it is called the FQ-121.


----------



## exroofer

Greetings all.

I have been studying the guide at the start for a while now, prepping for my change over from a 975BE to my new 8350. I had a pretty successful OC with my 975 (4.1 / 2600 NB stable 24/7 OC)
There are some differences I would like to ask about, mostly concerning NB OC'ing. With my previous chip I could get very significant gains in cpu benchmarks from raising the NB alone.With very little voltage increase, and very little heat penalty.
I see a post or two about that topic above, but it is not emphasized in the guide. I wanted to know what people recommend for the NB with the 8350, to get an idea of what I can get from this portion of the OC. My chip at stock sits at 2200 NB. How much headroom above that is there, realistically, and how much gain is there to be had? Looking for stable 24/7 OC, not max numbers. I need to upgrade to a Hyper 212 Evo or other cooler I think before raising the cpu freq. much, since my new card (Sapphire Toxic R290x) contributes more case heat than the previous 7870. Nothing ridiculous, but at stock cpu clocks I am getting low 50's for cpu temp. Thus I wondered if I could steal some performance through the NB for now without much heat penalty, until such time as I beef up the cpu cooler.

* Before anyone asks, I have my current cooler because a) it fit in my old case, which was small, and b) it provided enough airflow for the OC with the previous chip and video card.
It is a downdraft low profile style cooler.


----------



## Mega Man

for the love of god, please do not buy a 212.... not worth it
cpu/nb will be dependent upon what ram speeds you run

not gonna see huge gains except with high speed ram


----------



## exroofer

Currently on 1866 ram @ 9/10/9/27. I'm not expecting "huge" gains. More interested in what kind of ceiling people find for the NB, and at what kind of voltages.
The 975 could get 20-25% gain in cpu thruput from the NB alone. I understand that the 8350 chip architecture is different, and not as sensitive to NB OC'ing.
I wanted to get an idea where that limit lies. I have a fairly solid understanding of the normal cpu OC process, and what to expect there.
Just wanted to save that for later, after cooling improvements.


----------



## Mega Man

in my experience normal zone is 2600-2700 however i have seen some 2800+


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 1. You misread my sig rig. I am using the Silverstone Heligon HE01 twin tower air cooler with 2 fans.


Yup your right but when you click on your rig picture and all items listed there is an AOI cooler listed. At be because the original phanteks 140mm are only 75cfm and run lower when using pmw. I could replace fans but then again it's additional get to the cost and going down that road I might as well go water kit as cooler + fans would run $120 - 140 bucks


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zeromeep*
> 
> Yup your right but when you click on your rig picture and all items listed there is an AOI cooler listed. At be because the original phanteks 140mm are only 75cfm and run lower when using pmw. I could replace fans but then again it's additional get to the cost and going down that road I might as well go water kit as cooler + fans would run $120 - 140 bucks


You are right! I have no idea how that Tundra pic got in there as I listed the HE01.







I did actually buy a TD03 and installed it but saw temps in the 74-78C range and put the air cooler back in.

It seems to me you need better case intake fans, and if you get wet you're going to be buying fans by the case anyway.


----------



## zeromeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> It seems to me you need better case intake fans, and if you get wet you're going to be buying fans by the case anyway.


you are right, leaks was one of my fears that's why I stuck to Air coolers. In this case there is only a fan placement holes for a 200mm with no other option like say 2-3 140mm or even 120mm. there is an additional option to change the side case windows for a grill that holds 4 120mm case fans but then they would interfere with the Phantek and i would lose my side case windows


----------



## miklkit

When I look at pictures of your case I see 4 slots in the top half behind screens. How many of those slots are full?

I ask because my case has 3 slots with 2 free. I put the optical drive in the bottom slot and then had just enough room to stick a 120mm fan in on top of it. That fan is blowing straight back at the ram, motherboard and the cpu cooler intake. It does make a difference and I have never understood why all cases are not like that.


----------



## zeromeep

I dont have any optical drives so they are all empty. I was looking at a guy that modded his front 600t and removed the whole front panel and made a new front panel with 2 200mm case fans


http://www.overclock.net/t/1367658/case-mod-corsair-600t-jinx-dual-phobya-xtreme-400mm-radiators

I was looking at taking out the optical drive bays by drilling out the rivets that hold them in place and looking at where i can add another 200mm case fan for now and make room for future 360 rad in front standing up. will have to see video's on drilling out the rivets and see if i have the tools to do that.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exroofer*
> 
> Currently on 1866 ram @ 9/10/9/27. I'm not expecting "huge" gains. More interested in what kind of ceiling people find for the NB, and at what kind of voltages.
> The 975 could get 20-25% gain in cpu thruput from the NB alone. I understand that the 8350 chip architecture is different, and not as sensitive to NB OC'ing.
> I wanted to get an idea where that limit lies. I have a fairly solid understanding of the normal cpu OC process, and what to expect there.
> Just wanted to save that for later, after cooling improvements.


Here's where mine run 24 hr Prime95 stable


----------



## exroofer

Thanks a lot Sandman. That is very informative and definitely gives me an idea of what to expect from that part of things.


----------



## jleslie246

FX8350 is on sale from amazon for $139


----------



## madmanmarz

Overclocking is a strange animal. My temps were maxing out previously around 1.5-1.525v @ 4800 mhz with pretty conservative llc and other voltages.

Now I decide to increase my FSB multi to ~250, increase cpu/nb, vdda, and 1.8v a bit and my temps are 5-10* lower. ***?

Are there any surefire methods or tricks I've missed for squeezing out those last few hundred mhz? Just got a new board (sabertooth r2) and I am not having much success. I can post at 5ghz and run prime at 4.8-4.9 for 20 mins before I get the maximum number or warnings reached error.


----------



## jleslie246

1.5-1.525v @ 4800 MHz is a bit high. You should be stable @ 4.8 with 1.48ish Vcore. I know this doesn't address your question but it will lower your temps with multiplier OC.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Overclocking is a strange animal. My temps were maxing out previously around 1.5-1.525v @ 4800 mhz with pretty conservative llc and other voltages.
> 
> Now I decide to increase my FSB multi to ~250, increase cpu/nb, vdda, and 1.8v a bit and my temps are 5-10* lower. ***?
> 
> Are there any surefire methods or tricks I've missed for squeezing out those last few hundred mhz? Just got a new board (sabertooth r2) and I am not having much success. I can post at 5ghz and run prime at 4.8-4.9 for 20 mins before I get the maximum number or warnings reached error.


Check your DIGI options, they are vital to higher clocks and stability


----------



## madmanmarz

Eh I think I've tried everything at this point. LLC on high bumps me down .15-.25v and ultra high goes up .25. I've been using high and everything else pretty much extreme. I've also tried auto and ~medium settings, everything set to the most extreme settings, etc.

I have tried bumping and reducing the voltage of pretty much everything independently (cpu, cpu/nb, nb, vdda, 1.8v). Nothing seems to make a difference. I did not have a good chip to begin with but I was hoping my cooling would make up for it.

Also tried low nb/ht speeds as well as high, and of course my ram is loosened up a bunch.

The only thing that has made a difference thus far is going for a higher cpu bus frequency which seems to have reduced temps.

Previously 4600 was stable at 1.45 so I was hoping for 4800 @ ~1.5v and if that goes then maybe pushing for a little more. I went for a little more first so I guess it's time to work my way back down. I can't really find anything that helps my oc.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> Some say that NB overclock does nothing on fx chip. Well in my case it lowers the latency from 60ns to 54ns- amd raises performance of L3 cache


I think mdocod had posted a chart with real life results of various NB speeds and the result was, that it was zero or close to that, except for some specific combinations of software and high RAM speed. It's a bit like synthetic benchmarks that show more bandwidth when you pass from 1333 to 1600 RAM, but then in real world you can't tell the difference and in games it's 1 fps.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Eh I think I've tried everything at this point. LLC on high bumps me down .15-.25v and ultra high goes up .25. I've been using high and everything else pretty much extreme. I've also tried auto and ~medium settings, everything set to the most extreme settings, etc.
> 
> I have tried bumping and reducing the voltage of pretty much everything independently (cpu, cpu/nb, nb, vdda, 1.8v). Nothing seems to make a difference. I did not have a good chip to begin with but I was hoping my cooling would make up for it.
> 
> Also tried low nb/ht speeds as well as high, and of course my ram is loosened up a bunch.
> 
> The only thing that has made a difference thus far is going for a higher cpu bus frequency which seems to have reduced temps.
> 
> Previously 4600 was stable at 1.45 so I was hoping for 4800 @ ~1.5v and if that goes then maybe pushing for a little more. I went for a little more first so I guess it's time to work my way back down. I can't really find anything that helps my oc.


don't forget about the CPU frequencies and limits.. I set my CPU to 140% also phases for the VRMS

http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1888978/a/1127522/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/sort/display_order/


----------



## madmanmarz

Yeah I tried 120, 130, 140%. I haven't tried the vrm fixed frequency aside from auto and 300. I'll give that a shot if/when my current run fails.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Yeah I tried 120, 130, 140%. I haven't tried the vrm fixed frequency aside from auto and 300. I'll give that a shot if/when my current run fails.


also make sure temps are good. especially vrms I can hit 5.1 on my sabertooth no issues.

Oh do you have AIsuite installed? another thing is socket temp if hits 72c it will become unstable


----------



## madmanmarz

Socket temp is barely higher than core. Right now at 1.488v and 4854mhz I'm at 55c core and 59 socket, which I know doesn't really leave any room on the core. I have not seen any throttling of any kind. I am using openhardwaremonitor (always liked it best). Yes I have aisuite installed, but just some of the basics, not the full install.

What do you use for HPC and APM? I have them both disabled.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Socket temp is barely higher than core. Right now at 1.488v and 4854mhz I'm at 55c core and 59 socket, which I know doesn't really leave any room on the core. I have not seen any throttling of any kind. I am using openhardwaremonitor (always liked it best). Yes I have aisuite installed, but just some of the basics, not the full install.
> 
> What do you use for HPC and APM? I have them both disabled.


i would have to look, I can't remember right now, I have noticed that AIsuite is buggy and can cause issues, Also you can push the core to 70c without any issue, verified by AMD with overdrive's thermal margin


----------



## madmanmarz

Ok yeah I don't mind going into the mid 60s.

Have you found nb voltage to help stabilize? or to run ht/nb at the same speeds, etc? nb 1.8v ...


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Ok yeah I don't mind going into the mid 60s.
> 
> Have you found nb voltage to help stabilize? or to run ht/nb at the same speeds, etc? nb 1.8v ...


I have been running my clocks for over a year and a half at 5.1, so don't remember also keep in mind my chip is a poor clocker, In addition I have my RAM way clocked so there is that as well. 1866 cas 9 ram that is clocked to 2133 cas 8, fpr the NB voltage I don't think I adjusted it much, only the cpu/nb as that is the voltage to the memory controller, Also if you are clocking by FSB make sure that you drop ram timings down to stock latencies and frequency to rule that out.. I almost want to bet you even though you have the timings loose it could be your entire issue


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I have been running my clocks for over a year and a half at 5.1, so don't remember also keep in mind my chip is a poor clocker, In addition I have my RAM way clocked so there is that as well. 1866 cas 9 ram that is clocked to 2133 cas 8, fpr the NB voltage I don't think I adjusted it much, only the cpu/nb as that is the voltage to the memory controller, Also if you are clocking by FSB make sure that you drop ram timings down to stock latencies and frequency to rule that out.. I almost want to bet you even though you have the timings loose it could be your entire issue


Ram has been underclocked and run at stock latencies and 1.65v for the vast majority of testing. I did try 1.5v and even looser frequencies as well. By the way I tried all the llc stuff on extreme, ultra fast etc, with 450 frequency...same thing. Core 7 20 mins in errors. Max temp was 57 so I could try bumping up voltage further, but I don't think it's gonna make it.


----------



## madmanmarz

Alright I went back to mild llc settings, backed off some other voltages, raised vcore a tad and had 4854mhz passing for 1 1/2 hours, so I rebooted, bumped my nb/ht back up and ram back to normal. So far so good. I gotta keep in mind that this is an 83*20*, and not a strong one at that.

Temps are spiking to 69 on the core but usually don't go over 60. 63/66 for socket. Stressing using the latest prime95, custom with 6000MB RAM.

Also deleted aisuite to be safe.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *madmanmarz*
> 
> Alright I went back to mild llc settings, backed off some other voltages, raised vcore a tad and had 4854mhz passing for 1 1/2 hours, so I rebooted, bumped my nb/ht back up and ram back to normal. So far so good. I gotta keep in mind that this is an 83*20*, and not a strong one at that.
> 
> Temps are spiking to 69 on the core but usually don't go over 60. 63/66 for socket. Stressing using the latest prime95, custom with 6000MB RAM.
> 
> Also deleted aisuite to be safe.


Glad you got it worked out


----------



## Johan45

I would just like to say that not all 8xxx fx will do 4.8 at 1.48v although many will. Here's a shot of my old 8350 which I had nicknamed miss piggy running 4.9 at 1.584v http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/732341-Not-all-FX-are-created-equal?p=7484325&viewfull=1#post7484325. It was a pig of a CPU but it would also clock quite high just not very stable. It has since seen the magic smoke leak out and will clock no more. RIP Miss Piggy.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Glad you got it worked out


Alright so one of the cores failed 5 hours in and another 6 hours in. So 99% but not quite what I like so gonnna try again tonight with one more voltage bump.


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> I would just like to say that not all 8xxx fx will do 4.8 at 1.48v although many will. Here's a shot of my old 8350 which I had nicknamed miss piggy running 4.9 at 1.584v http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/732341-Not-all-FX-are-created-equal?p=7484325&viewfull=1#post7484325. It was a pig of a CPU but it would also clock quite high just not very stable. It has since seen the magic smoke leak out and will clock no more. RIP Miss Piggy.


LOL that's a lot of voltage. I had very good luck with athlon64/x2 and phenom2 but unfortunately this is my second 8320 and neither were very good (although both were ebay specials which probably marks why).


----------



## wrayman

struggling with this 4.7 on my 8350.

this has been my highest stable oc i've found in the past 2 days or so, i've played around with everything but i just can't seem to get 4.8 at decent cpu voltage. Anyone have any suggestions i can try?

my cpuz dump:

http://valid.x86.fr/126vhy

i've moved the nb and the ht freq about, kept the dram about 1600+-100.
vdda 2.6
nb/cpu 1.268(tried it up to about 1.3, still doesnt make it stable enough)

i've played about A LOT with multi/fsb, it just doesn't like it when either stray too far from 20/200, my only successful OCs as of yet have been 20-24/200-225.

really uncomfortable with this vcore... even 1 point lower and it fails on a core after about 15mins on p95


----------



## madmanmarz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wrayman*
> 
> struggling with this 4.7 on my 8350.
> 
> this has been my highest stable oc i've found in the past 2 days or so, i've played around with everything but i just can't seem to get 4.8 at decent cpu voltage. Anyone have any suggestions i can try?
> 
> my cpuz dump:
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/126vhy
> 
> i've moved the nb and the ht freq about, kept the dram about 1600+-100.
> vdda 2.6
> nb/cpu 1.268(tried it up to about 1.3, still doesnt make it stable enough)
> 
> i've played about A LOT with multi/fsb, it just doesn't like it when either stray too far from 20/200, my only successful OCs as of yet have been 20-24/200-225.
> 
> really uncomfortable with this vcore... even 1 point lower and it fails on a core after about 15mins on p95


It seems like some chips are just different.

In some cases vdda has helped while for most if has not. For some, extreme llc settings work, for me, thus far mild ones with more vcore works.

Try running your nb/ht at 2200ish, bring your ram down to 1333 at whatever voltage you intend to run with slightly loosened up timings. Bring your vdda down to 2.5-2.55 (if you have found that it has not added stability thus far). Bring your cpu/NB down to 1.75 or so. Give your NB a little bump and give your 1.8v a bump (I went up to 1.875 and found it to help). Once you've narrowed down what hasn't given you any extra stability, bump it back down to reduce heat and then increase your vcore as required. How much vcore are you using?

Once you've gotten the CPU stable with temps and voltages that you're comfortable with, then start messing with increasing nb/ht & ram if you wish. If you already have a baseline of what they can handle that helps a lot.


----------



## Johan45

@wrayman, you have a lot of ram in that system so I wouldn't be surprised if you need more CPU_NB voltage even up to 1.35v+ you might also want to add .05v to the ram itself.


----------



## madmanmarz

Didn't notice the 4 dimms. =/


----------



## jleslie246

Wow, comparing your CPU-Z to mine. I must have gotten a good chip. I can run stable at 5GHz 24/7. I have mine cranked down a bit to work on a GPU issue im having.

CPUZ


----------



## Sarex77

I have Rams with 2133 mhz. You recommend CPU/NB with 2200 or 2400 mhz?

And my CPU/FSB = 22.5x200 = 4.5 Ghz

HT Link with 2600 mhz.

You think that I am ok?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarex77*
> 
> I have Rams with 2133 mhz. You recommend CPU/NB with 2200 or 2400 mhz?
> 
> And my CPU/FSB = 22.5x200 = 4.5 Ghz
> 
> HT Link with 2600 mhz.
> 
> You think that I am ok?


HT @ 2600MHz and CPU/NB @ either 2200MHz (stock) or 2400MHz is fine.
I run both of mine at 2678MHz with a 267 x 18.0 OC as listed in my rig sig with very good results!


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## DigDeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sarex77*
> 
> I have Rams with 2133 mhz. You recommend CPU/NB with 2200 or 2400 mhz?
> 
> And my CPU/FSB = 22.5x200 = 4.5 Ghz
> 
> HT Link with 2600 mhz.
> 
> You think that I am ok?


2200 to 2400nb, shaved few ns for my latency, it went from 60ns to 54ns.


----------



## jleslie246

Did a little tweaking. Running 4.8Ghz @ 1.476Vcore, ( or I can up it to 5Ghz at 1.50Vcore). Temps way low right after gaming BF4 load. Good stuff here.

http://valid.x86.fr/ln2exj


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Did a little tweaking. Running 4.8Ghz @ 1.476Vcore, ( or I can up it to 5Ghz at 1.50Vcore). Temps way low right after gaming BF4 load. Good stuff here.
> 
> http://valid.x86.fr/ln2exj


Completely stable?
Would be nice considering you have all 4 ram slots populated.


----------



## jleslie246

Yes. Solid! I ran Prime for 2.5 hours (I know, thats short to some) and gamed BF4 for another 3 hours.

Does 4 ram slots used make it less stable in general? I was thinking of taking out two. 32Gb is over kill and not enough to use for a RamDrive which is why I maxed mine out to begin with. I just never used it like I thought I would. I can make a 20G ramdrive but it isnt really enough for most games. Now when I switch to DDR4 platform (X99?) I can go 64G and that would work out well.

Point being, my assumption from your comment, 16G is plenty IMO and more stable if I understand the premise of your comment.









Going to 5Ghz I really dont see any performace increase other than benchmarks. 4.8 is where this chip jumps up and dances for me!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Yes. Solid! I ran Prime for 2.5 hours (I know, thats short to some) and gamed BF4 for another 3 hours.
> 
> Does 4 ram slots used make it less stable in general? I was thinking of taking out two. 32Gb is over kill and not enough to use for a RamDrive which is why I maxed mine out to begin with. I just never used it like I thought I would. I can make a 20G ramdrive but it isnt really enough for most games. Now when I switch to DDR4 platform (X99?) I can go 64G and that would work out well.
> 
> Point being, my assumption from your comment, 16G is plenty IMO and more stable if I understand the premise of your comment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to 5Ghz I really dont see any performace increase other than benchmarks. 4.8 is where this chip jumps up and dances for me!


The extra two Dimms place a lot more stress on the IMC and can cause instability. Just depends on the chip.
Try running 10 passes of IBT AVX set to "Maximum" http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202

I say 10 runs as you're running 32GB which will take a while to run.

With that much Ram I'd recommend trying a HTT x Multi OC instead a Multi only.
You'll be surprised what the extra bandwidth can do for performance and actual feel during everyday tasks

You now have a fairly good base point to work from but I doubt it's nearly as stable as you think with so little testing.
Give that IBT some consideration and let us know how it goes.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> The extra two Dimms place a lot more stress on the IMC and can cause instability. Just depends on the chip.
> Try running 10 passes of IBT AVX set to "Maximum" http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> 
> I say 10 runs as you're running 32GB which will take a while to run.
> 
> With that much Ram I'd recommend trying a HTT x Multi OC instead a Multi only.
> You'll be surprised what the extra bandwidth can do for performance and actual feel during everyday tasks
> 
> You now have a fairly good base point to work from but I doubt it's nearly as stable as you think with so little testing.
> Give that IBT some consideration and let us know how it goes.


+1

Let us know.


----------



## tobyshorkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Yes. Solid! I ran Prime for 2.5 hours (I know, thats short to some) and gamed BF4 for another 3 hours.
> 
> Does 4 ram slots used make it less stable in general? I was thinking of taking out two. 32Gb is over kill and not enough to use for a RamDrive which is why I maxed mine out to begin with. I just never used it like I thought I would. I can make a 20G ramdrive but it isnt really enough for most games. Now when I switch to DDR4 platform (X99?) I can go 64G and that would work out well.
> 
> Point being, my assumption from your comment, 16G is plenty IMO and more stable if I understand the premise of your comment.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to 5Ghz I really dont see any performace increase other than benchmarks. 4.8 is where this chip jumps up and dances for me!


same with me, stayed at 4.8, not worth it for me at 5.0


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobyshorkie*
> 
> same with me, stayed at 4.8, not worth it for me at 5.0


I think most people want it because of the magic number.

For me it is the same. Performance/watt ratio wise


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I think most people want it because of the magic number.
> 
> For me it is the same. Performance/watt ratio wise


I saw a little boost. but mainly due to fsb oc, however i wan't to be the magic number


----------



## crastakippers

Hi Guys,

I had my 8320 prime blend stable at (>= 8 hours) on air. I just installed an xspc raystorm kit with a 240 rad and I need help getting a higher clock stable. I have also switched memory from Kingston HyperX 1333 to gskill 1866 but I am running it slower until I get the OC stable. My GSkill is set at 1.6v and my NB is 1.3v. I run IBT AVX and I fail on the 9th pass when using very high. Does this mean that the problem is memory? I think I may have some work todo with regard to case air flow and maybe switch from exausting the rad to intake?
The screenshots below are after runnning prime small FFT for 17 minutes which passes but if I cannot pass IBT on very high I will not pass prime blend. Sorry I have a jumped about a little in this post, please let me know what other information you need to help.

Ambients were 67c

Thanks for your help.

4700fail.PNG 797k .PNG file


4700_memory.PNG 98k .PNG file


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or were you running in the oven?









I would start with putting your ram on the specced settings. 1866 + the timings that are on the stickers on the modules.
And then start from scratch.
Now you are playing with 2 things at once.

Can you post screen-shots from your bios settings: voltages, digi+ etc.
Also what were your previous settings with the stable clock on air? Volts, clocks...

If you start with stock cpu and stock ram(specced settings) you can isolate things.

Judging by the test your ran now, I think your volts are too low. But I need to see more settings to advice on what to change.
Also you tell about NB 1.3 volts. I hope you switched terms and are not talking about the NB core volts but about the cpu-nb volts.
Either way, that is probably too high. You are at stock cpu-nb frequency.

I have the same board as you so I should be able to help you out a bit.


----------



## Chopper1591

Edit:

Oops, double post.


----------



## crastakippers

Sorry, Yes 67f and yes cpu NB. OK I can put the ram timings onto the sticker spec. They are 8, 9, 9, so I though loosening them up was better for stability. I can also go back to the Kingston memory if necessary. Here are some shots of the bios. Let me know if you need others and thanks for taking an interest.


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or was i
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Sorry, Yes 67f and yes cpu NB. OK I can put the ram timings onto the sticker spec. They are 8, 9, 9, so I though loosening them up was better for stability. I can also go back to the Kingston memory if necessary. Here are some shots of the bios. Let me know if you need others and thanks for taking an interest.


Bios settings look allright.
But you can keep the cpu-nb voltage at what it was stock, or put it at 1.2v to be sure.

Start with putting the ram @ 1866 8-9-9-26-35
Set the cpu at 4.0 with 1.4v. And run ibt very high.

If that works. Just make your way to a higher overclock on the cpu in steps. Increasing vcore where needed.

Post back.


----------



## crastakippers

Thanks I will give your suggestions a try and let you know.


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ambients were 67F, I take it?
> Or was i
> Bios settings look allright.
> But you can keep the cpu-nb voltage at what it was stock, or put it at 1.2v to be sure.
> 
> Start with putting the ram @ 1866 8-9-9-26-35
> Set the cpu at 4.0 with 1.4v. And run ibt very high.
> 
> If that works. Just make your way to a higher overclock on the cpu in steps. Increasing vcore where needed.
> 
> Post back.


OK. Did as you suggested. Thank you. Took a while as I use baby steps on the voltage. I am now at 4.8Ghz for 1.5v on the CPU. 10 passes of IBT AVX on very high. Temps ain't too bad the max on the CPU here shows 60 but I never saw it go over 52 when I was looking. I intend to run a prime blend perhaps over night. Do you think I can go higher?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> I am now at 4.8Ghz for 1.5v on the CPU. 10 passes of IBT AVX on very high. Temps ain't too bad the max on the CPU here shows 60 but I never saw it go over 52 when I was looking. I intend to run a prime blend perhaps over night. Do you think I can go higher?


You might be able to go higher but only further testing will tell the story.

Be sure to manually enter the following to help keep the bios constant
Memory Freq - 1866 at this point
CPU/NB Freq - do not leave on auto
HT Link Speed
PCIE Spread Spectrum to disabled

We run the same Dram kit and on my CHV-Z stock timing is


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







These should also be manually entered.
If you check my rig sig you'll see where my kit is currently running. They are stable even running @ 2408MHz. This is a very nice kit with lots of headroom









You may want to look into running "OffSet Voltage Mode" if you'd like to run Cool & Quiet.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Thanks I will give your suggestions a try and let you know.


I have Trident memory as well and tech support helped me out a bit. Gskill recommends "Enable DOCP/EOCP in BIOS, raise CPU-NB Voltage +0.15V". You will see the DOCP setting under Ai Overclock Tuner. This worked great for me.


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> You might be able to go higher but only further testing will tell the story.
> 
> We run the same Dram kit and on my CHV-Z stock timing is
> You may want to look into running "OffSet Voltage Mode" if you'd like to run Cool & Quiet.


I tried 4.9Ghz. It needs 1.543v and Core temp is at 63 and socket 70 so I think I will leave it at 4.8Ghz for now, run a blend test and just check everything is stable.
Thank you for your ram settings.







I will enter mine manually and also check out Offset Voltage mode.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> I have Trident memory as well and tech support helped me out a bit. Gskill recommends "Enable DOCP/EOCP in BIOS, raise CPU-NB Voltage +0.15V". You will see the DOCP setting under Ai Overclock Tuner. This worked great for me.


Thanks I will give this a try too.

I appreciate all your help guys.


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or were you running in the oven?









I would start with putting your ram on the specced settings. 1866 + the timings that are on the stickers on the modules.
And then start from scratch.
Now you are playing with 2 things at once.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> OK. Did as you suggested. Thank you. Took a while as I use baby steps on the voltage. I am now at 4.8Ghz for 1.5v on the CPU. 10 passes of IBT AVX on very high. Temps ain't too bad the max on the CPU here shows 60 but I never saw it go over 52 when I was looking. I intend to run a prime blend perhaps over night. Do you think I can go higher?


Looks good.

What was your previous overclock? Before getting the Water kit.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> I tried 4.9Ghz. It needs 1.543v and *Core temp is at 63 and socket 70* so I think I will leave it at 4.8Ghz for now, run a blend test and just check everything is stable.
> Thank you for your ram settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will enter mine manually and also check out Offset Voltage mode.
> Thanks I will give this a try too.
> 
> I appreciate all your help guys.


Don't get things mixxed up here.
The earlier screenshot of IBT @ 4.8 was showing a max of 55c on the socket and 60.6c on the cores.

Was it the other way around when you upped it one step more?
Also was that the least voltage you needed for 4.9?

You could also try upping the cpu-nb voltage a bit instead of the cpu voltage, and see if that gives you a better temp.

But running it at 70c on the socket and 63c on the cores is fine. Normal usage won't get it that high anyway.
Under stressing, that is fine.


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> What was your previous overclock? Before getting the Water kit.
> Don't get things mixxed up here.
> The earlier screenshot of IBT @ 4.8 was showing a max of 55c on the socket and 60.6c on the cores.
> 
> Was it the other way around when you upped it one step more?
> Also was that the least voltage you needed for 4.9?
> 
> You could also try upping the cpu-nb voltage a bit instead of the cpu voltage, and see if that gives you a better temp.
> 
> But running it at 70c on the socket and 63c on the cores is fine. Normal usage won't get it that high anyway.
> Under stressing, that is fine.


Ambients the last runs were 65F, I opened the window.
The previous overclock using an evo 220, cpu fan on the back of the socket and on vrms was 4.6Ghz > 8 hours prime blend stable plus ten passes of IBT AVX on very high.
Yes, I think I have muddled those temps up. What then is the VCORE-1 voltage and what is safe (80c) ? I thought VCORE-1 was the socket so temp. So my socket was actually lower.
How far would I raise the cpu/north bridge?
Also what is a recommended amount of ram for prime blend custom run. I tried to test with 12Gb but prime locked up so I guess I still have work on stability?


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or were you running in the oven?









I would start with putting your ram on the specced settings. 1866 + the timings that are on the stickers on the modules.
And then start from scratch.
Now you are playing with 2 things at once.

Can you post screen-shots from your bios settings: voltages, d
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Ambients the last runs were 65F, I opened the window.
> The previous overclock using an evo 220, cpu fan on the back of the socket and on vrms was 4.6Ghz > 8 hours prime blend stable plus ten passes of IBT AVX on very high.
> Yes, I think I have muddled those temps up. What then is the VCORE-1 voltage and what is safe (80c) ? I thought VCORE-1 was the socket so temp. So my socket was actually lower.
> How far would I raise the cpu/north bridge?
> Also what is a recommended amount of ram for prime blend custom run. I tried to test with 12Gb but prime locked up so I guess I still have work on stability?


On the blend custom. Most use around 80% ram.
And if it crashes, you need more volts.

VCORE-1 is vrm.
Most are safe upto 120 or something. But I like it as cool as possible.
80c should be allright. But do use a fan over them if you haven't already.

Ehm...
Try upping the cpu-nb to 1.25v


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> VCORE-1 is vrm.
> Most are safe upto 120 or something. But I like it as cool as possible.
> 80c should be allright. But do use a fan over them if you haven't already.
> 
> Ehm...
> Try upping the cpu-nb to 1.25v


Not sure why I got the Vcore confused. It makes sense that it is the vrm. But it was a safe mistake







. The highest I have ever seen the vrm is 70c and my socket has never been quite that high. I'l up the cpu-nb and try and blend later. If that fails I will add a little volts to the cpu. Thanks again.


----------



## crastakippers

I have upped the nb-cpu to 1.25v. I also needed to up the cpu to 1.525v to be able to run for one hour prime custom blend using 12Gb. Max temp on the Core hit 64c at one point but mainly stayed at 60c, socket max was 62c. I will run this blend test toinight and if it lasts > 6 hours I might call it done and start clocking my memory or GPU.

Thanks again everyone.


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or were you running in the oven?









I would start with putting your ram on the specced settings. 1866 + the timings that are on the stickers on the modules.
And then start wit
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> I have upped the nb-cpu to 1.25v. I also needed to up the cpu to 1.525v to be able to run for one hour prime custom blend using 12Gb. Max temp on the Core hit 64c at one point but mainly stayed at 60c, socket max was 62c. I will run this blend test toinight and if it lasts > 6 hours I might call it done and start clocking my memory or GPU.
> 
> Thanks again everyone.


Good to hear.
You can put the cpu-nb back if you want. It was on 1.2v before, right?
Will also lower the cpu temps.

I just thought that maybe you could up the cpu-nb instead of the cpu volts.
So try things out a bit.

Temps look ok.


----------



## crastakippers

Unfortunately the 4.8Ghz blend test using 12G of ram hard locked the PC. I am at 1.525v on the cpu and the core temp hit 64c during the test. Other temps are fine. Not sure if I can go any higher on the volts looking at the core temp.
Would relaxing the ram timings help? I am currently on 8-9-9-26-35. 1866.

Or should I go back to 4.7Ghz and try for that overnight blend stable.


----------



## jleslie246

If you followed the guide and this is the result then you've hit the limit of the cpu. Am it on water? If not then I would try that. I run 1.475V @ 4.8Ghz and don't get over 38c on water under load


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or were you running in the oven?









I would start with putting your ram on the specced settings. 1866 + the timings that are on the stickers on the modules.
And then start from scratch.
Now you are playing with 2 things at once.

Can you post screen-shots from your bios settings: voltages, digi+ etc.
Also what were your previous settings with the stable clock on air? Volts, clocks...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> Unfortunately the 4.8Ghz blend test using 12G of ram hard locked the PC. I am at 1.525v on the cpu and the core temp hit 64c during the test. Other temps are fine. Not sure if I can go any higher on the volts looking at the core temp.
> Would relaxing the ram timings help? I am currently on 8-9-9-26-35. 1866.
> 
> Or should I go back to 4.7Ghz and try for that overnight blend stable.


Relaxing the ram timings will probably let you use a bit less volts on the cpu.
But personally I would like my ram tighter with a 4.7 clock then the other way around.

Feel free to try it yourself.
Run some benches and compare the results.
To test mem performance I use Aida64's bench tool.

Latest news is that the core temp is acutally safe up to 70c.
How is your socket temp compared to the core?


----------



## crastakippers

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Relaxing the ram timings will probably let you use a bit less volts on the cpu.
> But personally I would like my ram tighter with a 4.7 clock then the other way around.
> 
> Feel free to try it yourself.
> Run some benches and compare the results.
> To test mem performance I use Aida64's bench tool.
> 
> Latest news is that the core temp is acutally safe up to 70c.
> How is your socket temp compared to the core?


I will leave the ram as it is and just try and get 4.7 prime stable. The socket temps seem to stay within a couple of degrees of the core temp. The CPU fan on the back of the socket really helps. I am surprised how effective it is. Anyway I will focus on 4.7 and see how that goes.

cheers!


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or were you running in the oven?









I would start with putting your ram on the specced settings. 1866 + the timings that are on the stickers on the modules.
And then start from scratch.
Now you are playing with 2 things at once.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> I will leave the ram as it is and just try and get 4.7 prime stable. The socket temps seem to stay within a couple of degrees of the core temp. The CPU fan on the back of the socket really helps. I am surprised how effective it is. Anyway I will focus on 4.7 and see how that goes.
> 
> cheers!












Fan on the back of the board helps allot, true.
Mine lowered the socket temp for like a good 10c.

Can you fill out your rig in your sig more completely?
I think you reached the limit your cooling can take, but I can't recall which cooler you have...

Good luck on making it rock solid.


----------



## TheLandstander

I've had what I thought was a stable overclock for the past couple months, except I had an unexpected Windows shutdown yesterday.

Out of curiosity I decided to burn test my overclock with turbo setup _again_ by using Prime95 on a single core.

After about 2 hours I got: ERROR: ILLEGAL SUMOUT repeated across 3 pages (all at the same time stamp) before Prime95 stopped.
I've never seen that before. Does the specific error mean anything or do I just test some more voltage?

Edit: The Vcore already peaked at 1.404v so I instead decided to lower the half turbo multipler to 19.5x (4.6ghz instead of 4.7ghz). So far 4 hours stable. Seems a shame, but I'm sure as infrequently as half turbo engages 118mhz isn't going to make any difference.
Edit 2: 6 hours fine. Stopping testing for now. I'd still like to know if the weird error from Prime95 means somethings specific.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I've had what I thought was a stable overclock for the past couple months, except I had an unexpected Windows shutdown yesterday.
> 
> Out of curiosity I decided to burn test my overclock with turbo setup _again_ by using Prime95 on a single core.
> 
> After about 2 hours I got: ERROR: ILLEGAL SUMOUT repeated across 3 pages (all at the same time stamp) before Prime95 stopped.
> I've never seen that before. Does the specific error mean anything or do I just test some more voltage?
> 
> Edit: The Vcore already peaked at 1.404v so I instead decided to lower the half turbo multipler to 19.5x (4.6ghz instead of 4.7ghz). So far 4 hours stable. Seems a shame, but I'm sure as infrequently as half turbo engages 118mhz isn't going to make any difference.
> Edit 2: 6 hours fine. Stopping testing for now. I'd still like to know if the weird error from Prime95 means somethings specific.


I don't know about the specified error you are talking about.
But usually I just see it like this: any error, whatever type, code, number... = unstable

So yeah. You probably need more voltage.

What is your non-turbo clock? You only talk about a 4.6 turbo clock.
I know for sure mine likes some more juice then 1.404v for a 4.6 clock.

Can you post a SS of a IBT-avx run?


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I don't know about the specified error you are talking about.
> But usually I just see it like this: any error, whatever type, code, number... = unstable
> 
> So yeah. You probably need more voltage.
> 
> What is your non-turbo clock? You only talk about a 4.6 turbo clock.
> I know for sure mine likes some more juice then 1.404v for a 4.6 clock.
> 
> Can you post a SS of a IBT-avx run?


I have temperatures issues in my case for now so I only keep my base speed at 4.1ghz (17.5x236). With the voltage set to -.01875v offset, it's nice and cool even when the turbo kicks in. The 4.1ghz is 24 hour stable with less voltage than that. It's just difficult to burn test turbo and I thought I had done it well enough. Apparently not.

4.1 may not be much, but when it isn't idling to save power under regular light/medium use (which is most of the time) it's usually at full turbo speed (4.4ghz) with occasional spikes to half turbo. I've seen turbo kick in under heavy use as well.

It's a good compromise when heat or voltage is an issue.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I have temperatures issues in my case for now so I only keep my base speed at 4.1ghz (17.5x236). With the voltage set to -.01875v offset, it's nice and cool even when the turbo kicks in. The 4.1ghz is 24 hour stable with less voltage than that. It's just difficult to burn test turbo and I thought I had done it well enough. Apparently not.
> 
> 4.1 may not be much, but when it isn't idling to save power under regular light/medium use (which is most of the time) it's usually at full turbo speed (4.4ghz) with occasional spikes to half turbo. I've seen turbo kick in under heavy use as well.
> 
> It's a good compromise when heat or voltage is an issue.


Ahh, ok.
Yeah thats nice of the turbo feature.

If you want to go higher I highly recommend getting a better cooler though.
It's mentioned allot of times here, the 212 just doesn't cut it with these hot-head 8-cores.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ahh, ok.
> Yeah thats nice of the turbo feature.
> 
> If you want to go higher I highly recommend getting a better cooler though.
> It's mentioned allot of times here, the 212 just doesn't cut it with these hot-head 8-cores.


I don't know if it is the 212's fault or not, but my biggest problem is my socket runs 15 degrees hotter than the CPU. That's been my limiting factor. Additional fans in the case, on the mobo sinks, etc. don't help. Probably need a new case or to cut a hole in back.


----------



## jleslie246

Cut a hole in the back of the case. Most mb's have a heat sink on the back. A fan on this area will improve temps big time!!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I don't know if it is the 212's fault or not, but my biggest problem is my socket runs 15 degrees hotter than the CPU. That's been my limiting factor. Additional fans in the case, on the mobo sinks, etc. don't help. Probably need a new case or to cut a hole in back.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Cut a hole in the back of the case. Most mb's have a heat sink on the back. A fan on this area will improve temps big time!!


This.
I have done this with my case and it helped allot. Can't find screenshots of before and after but I think it was a good 10c cooler after adding a fan to the back of the socket.

Lined things out


Took out the dremel


Filling things down


And the results.


This was a run from when I just had my custom loop together:

Just a 4.7 clock, no turbo


----------



## tekokk

guys recently i've just overclocked my 8350 4.6ghz @ 1.35.

During the stress test, I got 81c socket temp (load) and 70-71c core temp. Is it fine?


----------



## jleslie246

No! Are you using the stock cooler?


----------



## tekokk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> No! Are you using the stock cooler?


nope using Phanteks PH-TC14PE CPU Cooler http://www.phanteks.com/ph-tc14pe.html

idle temps at 35c


----------



## Chopper1591

Ambients were 67F, I take it?
Or were you running in the oven?









I would start with putting your ram on the specced settings. 1866 + the timings that are on the stickers on the modules.
And then start from scratch.
Now you are playing with 2 things at once.

Can you post screen-shots from your bios settings: voltages, digi+ etc.
Also what were your previous settings with the stable clock on air? Volts, clocks...

If you start with stock cpu and stock ram(specced settings) you can isolate things.

Judging by the test your ran now, I think your volts are too low. But I need to see more settings to advice on what to change.
Also you tell about NB 1.3 volts. I hope you mis
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tekokk*
> 
> nope using Phanteks PH-TC14PE CPU Cooler http://www.phanteks.com/ph-tc14pe.html
> 
> idle temps at 35c


Try reseating the cooler if you haven't already.

That is a proper cooling and those temps are way higher then to be expected.


----------



## Tsine

I've also asked for this in amd piledriver thread . If i have i high l3 cache latency what do i do ?

They told me to up the NB CORE voltage (gigabyte 990fx UD3 rev 4 ) to the point that me computer gets better l3 cache . I tried to lower to 1.2 from 1.225 and l3 cache got better latency . Then i tried 1.3 volts from 1.225 and again i got better l3 cache latency .

Any suggestions?


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tsine*
> 
> I've also asked for this in amd piledriver thread . If i have i high l3 cache latency what do i do ?
> 
> They told me to up the NB CORE voltage (gigabyte 990fx UD3 rev 4 ) to the point that me computer gets better l3 cache . I tried to lower to 1.2 from 1.225 and l3 cache got better latency . Then i tried 1.3 volts from 1.225 and again i got better l3 cache latency .
> 
> Any suggestions?


When You increase volts for cpu/nb You also need To up the cpu/nb mHz To 2400 or even 2600 and higher. I reached 2800+ easy buth i like the cooler temps more. I only See the difference in benches and not in Windows or games.


----------



## Tsine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> When You increase volts for cpu/nb You also need To up the cpu/nb mHz To 2400 or even 2600 and higher. I reached 2800+ easy buth i like the cooler temps more. I only See the difference in benches and not in Windows or games.


What about Nb mhz from 2400 to 2600 effect L3 cache latency ?

Because if nb 2600mhz lowers L3 cache ..it will effect the responsiveness of the programs and games that take advantage of the L3 cache


----------



## DigDeep

It did help when I raised it from 2200 to 2400, but HT from 2400 to 2600 did not do anything.

Check this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1361667/amd-fx-series-8350-8320-overclocking-experiment


----------



## jleslie246

Id like to see a comparison like this with OC by multiplier vs OC by bus speed (and maybe a mix of the two).


----------



## Caz

Hey all,

I recently started a new build. 8350+MSI 990FXA-GD65V2+Cooler Master Seidon 240M, what type of numbers do you think I should push. I've already Prime95'd my CPU for half an hour on blend and it was topping out at 35C, ambients around 8-10C stock.

I figured 5-5.2 should be doable...


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caz*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I recently started a new build. 8350+MSI 990FXA-GD65V2+Cooler Master Seidon 240M, what type of numbers do you think I should push. I've already Prime95'd my CPU for half an hour on blend and it was topping out at 35C, ambients around 8-10C stock.
> 
> I figured 5-5.2 should be doable...


You what?
Ambient around 8-10c?

I would recommend doing ibt-avx to get an idea of where you cooling can take you.

Got no extended knowledge about the GD65, but I do expect it to hold you back somewhat as it is not top-tier.
And a closed loop, thin rad, will only take you so far.

I honestly don't expect you to hit those numbers. Not with that board and cooling.
If you keep the ambient at those rediculous numbers you can go higher then must, sure.

I have a full custom loop with a thick 360 radiator and it is not easy to keep my fx-8320 stable over 5ghz.


----------



## Caz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> You what?
> Ambient around 8-10c?
> 
> I would recommend doing ibt-avx to get an idea of where you cooling can take you.
> 
> Got no extended knowledge about the GD65, but I do expect it to hold you back somewhat as it is not top-tier.
> And a closed loop, thin rad, will only take you so far.
> 
> I honestly don't expect you to hit those numbers. Not with that board and cooling.
> If you keep the ambient at those rediculous numbers you can go higher then must, sure.
> 
> I have a full custom loop with a thick 360 radiator and it is not easy to keep my fx-8320 stable over 5ghz.


Yeah, my ambients are crazy low. I also have one Delta (high CFH rate) so it keeps it very cool. I suspect if I had 4 push pull it would be really cold. I keep my home about 65, and I have high/efficient airflow through the case.

Thanks for your 2cents, I suspect you might be right, this board might hold me back a bit. Although I know it has a higher power phase though...


----------



## miklkit

When you say ambients do you mean the temps at idle with no load? Temps like that are normal with CnQ enabled.

I suspect that the GD65 will get hot quickly when you push it as it has no heat pipe and smallish heat sinks. I also do not know what VRMs it has. Try for 4.5-4.6 ghz first and see how it runs. It might top out at 4.7-4.8 ghz.

Do you have a laser thermometer? That will let you monitor VRM temps while it's running. You might have to put a fan on them.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caz*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> I recently started a new build. 8350+MSI 990FXA-GD65V2+Cooler Master Seidon 240M, what type of numbers do you think I should push. I've already Prime95'd my CPU for half an hour on blend and it was topping out at 35C, ambients around 8-10C stock.
> 
> I figured 5-5.2 should be doable...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> You what?
> Ambient around 8-10c?
> 
> I would recommend doing ibt-avx to get an idea of where you cooling can take you.
> 
> Got no extended knowledge about the GD65, but I do expect it to hold you back somewhat as it is not top-tier.
> And a closed loop, thin rad, will only take you so far.
> 
> I honestly don't expect you to hit those numbers. Not with that board and cooling.
> If you keep the ambient at those rediculous numbers you can go higher then must, sure.
> 
> I have a full custom loop with a thick 360 radiator and it is not easy to keep my fx-8320 stable over 5ghz.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, my ambients are crazy low. I also have one Delta (high CFH rate) so it keeps it very cool. I suspect if I had 4 push pull it would be really cold. I keep my home about 65, and I have high/efficient airflow through the case.
> 
> Thanks for your 2cents, I suspect you might be right, this board might hold me back a bit. Although I know it has a higher power phase though...
Click to expand...

wait 65f=18c, i thought your ambient was 8-10c

FYI do not trust idle temps on amd, unlike intel they DO NOT have a thermister on board, they have a calculation that is more accurate the more loaded the cpu is ( the hotter it is ) use socket temps to ~ 40c then use core.

you need to disable the power savings to see true temps idle other wise you will throttle and keep temps ~ 40c


----------



## Caz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> When you say ambients do you mean the temps at idle with no load? Temps like that are normal with CnQ enabled.
> 
> I suspect that the GD65 will get hot quickly when you push it as it has no heat pipe and smallish heat sinks. I also do not know what VRMs it has. Try for 4.5-4.6 ghz first and see how it runs. It might top out at 4.7-4.8 ghz.
> 
> Do you have a laser thermometer? That will let you monitor VRM temps while it's running. You might have to put a fan on them.


Good advice! Thanks! I've been thinking about the Fan on the VRMs or the south bridge.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> wait 65f=18c, i thought your ambient was 8-10c
> 
> FYI do not trust idle temps on amd, unlike intel they DO NOT have a thermister on board, they have a calculation that is more accurate the more loaded the cpu is ( the hotter it is ) use socket temps to ~ 40c then use core.
> 
> you need to disable the power savings to see true temps idle other wise you will throttle and keep temps ~ 40c


My home is at 65F, my computer idles at around 8C.

Agreed, I plan on switching it up whenever I game or use my computer for anything more than HTPC/Audiophile.


----------



## Mega Man

ok lets back up your pc CAN NOT be cooler then your ambient unless using phase change / chiller / dry ice ect

your home is 18c, your pc will not be less then 18c much less 18c on air cooling with or without a delta fan ( or 200 of them ) it is physically impossible for the air cooler to remove the heat quick enough to even get to room temp, this is not a issue of airflow but the copper physically can not move the heat to AIR to keep it that cool

so sorry again your pc is not idling at 8-10c


----------



## Caz

You're probably right about the sensors. I'm jusayin


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> 9000 series were binned specifically for low leakage, so theoretically they should hit higher clocks with less heat at comparable voltage settings to other chips. That's not to say that low leakage chips were not already in the mix of 8000 series out there.
> 
> You definitely have a choice 8320
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With stock voltages for the 4.9GHz, temps were generally around 58C Core and 68C Socket while stressing with P95, with peaks of 62C Core and 70C Socket. Ambient temp 20C, with a dual fan H80i (push-pull config), and a 120mm fan blowing on my socket backplate at a 45 degree angle.
> 
> Heading out on a 2 week business trip again, so it will be a while before I test the 2nd 9590.


Oh my, that last sentence was an understatement









But I just installed my "new" 9590 last night, and expect to get after it's overclocking and testing this weekend. Made several updates to my rig: case, cooling, PSU and BIOS of primary concern.

For those that are interested:

9590 # 1 is a 1322PGS
9590 # 2 is a 1329 PGS

These were both purchased last year.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caz*
> 
> 
> 
> You're probably right about the sensors. I'm jusayin


Ahh..
Things clear up now.

Your ambient is around 18c.
And you IDLE at 8-10c.
At least, you say you do.

Mentioned by Megaman, idle temps are way off.

In that case you will really not see much more then 4.7 with your current setup.
You will probably hit the voltage wall around those clocks, where the game most likely will end for you.
The heat will be too much for the cooler.

Which temp are you talking about when doing prime?
Core or socket?

Can you do 10 minutes of prime smallFFTs and post a screenshot showing all temps with hwinfo64?


----------



## Caz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Ahh..
> Things clear up now.
> 
> Your ambient is around 18c.
> And you IDLE at 8-10c.
> At least, you say you do.
> 
> Mentioned by Megaman, idle temps are way off.
> 
> In that case you will really not see much more then 4.7 with your current setup.
> You will probably hit the voltage wall around those clocks, where the game most likely will end for you.
> The heat will be too much for the cooler.
> 
> Which temp are you talking about when doing prime?
> Core or socket?
> 
> Can you do 10 minutes of prime smallFFTs and post a screenshot showing all temps with hwinfo64?


I gotcha. To me ambient and idle are pretty darn close. Sorry for the misunderstanding.

I cannot remember, but I believe it was 35C Core, it was obviously higher for the socket.

I will probably end up putting another fan on the end of my 5.25" bays, zip tied or something to keep the VRMs and everything cooler.


----------



## jleslie246

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok lets back up your pc CAN NOT be cooler then your ambient unless using phase change / chiller / dry ice ect
> 
> your home is 18c, your pc will not be less then 18c much less 18c on air cooling with or without a delta fan ( or 200 of them ) it is physically impossible for the air cooler to remove the heat quick enough to even get to room temp, this is not a issue of airflow but the copper physically can not move the heat to AIR to keep it that cool
> 
> so sorry again your pc is not idling at 8-10c


Why does CPUID report my cpu temp at 12 degrees C? Ambient is 21C and AI suite II reports 28C. I am on a custom water loop btw.


----------



## agung79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Why does CPUID report my cpu temp at 12 degrees C? Ambient is 21C and AI suite II reports 28C. I am on a custom water loop btw.


i think megamen right, at idle its not true (for all monitoring software), at max only that's the true reading of the cpu temp... core temp not socket....
and this are already old discussion... every body should known that...

my idle 9 Cdeg with 4 radiators (1x420, 3x360 1x140, wb vrm, 2xwwb on gpu)in 32 Cdeg ambient.... can you guys imagine that







......


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok lets back up your pc CAN NOT be cooler then your ambient unless using phase change / chiller / dry ice ect
> 
> your home is 18c, your pc will not be less then 18c much less 18c on air cooling with or without a delta fan ( or 200 of them ) it is physically impossible for the air cooler to remove the heat quick enough to even get to room temp, this is not a issue of airflow but the copper physically can not move the heat to AIR to keep it that cool
> 
> so sorry again your pc is not idling at 8-10c
> 
> 
> 
> Why does CPUID report my cpu temp at 12 degrees C? Ambient is 21C and AI suite II reports 28C. I am on a custom water loop btw.
Click to expand...

cpuz uses the package sensor VS aisuite ( which is crap ) which will always read socket temp

Package = core temp

socket = sensor in socket


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caz*
> 
> I gotcha. To me ambient and idle are pretty darn close. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
> 
> I cannot remember, but I believe it was 35C Core, it was obviously higher for the socket.
> 
> I will probably end up putting another fan on the end of my 5.25" bays, zip tied or something to keep the VRMs and everything cooler.


Still...

Can you post a screenshot with showing both temps(core and socket), after/while doing a stress test?

You need to keep an eye on both the temps.
My target is 70c max for either of them. But short periods over that, should be fine. At least, while stressing.
Daily usage both my temps rarely see 50+.


----------



## The Sandman

my bad


----------



## blithe

Hello guys. Firstly, very thanks for amazing guide. But I have a question about my cpu oc. I have 8320 @ 4.1 GHZ with stock voltages.
Mother board is ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0 and CPU cooler is Cooler Master HYPER LGA. I want to oc my CPU to 4.5 or 4.4 GHZ. I Couldn't set right voltages. Can you help me with that ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blithe*
> 
> Hello guys. Firstly, very thanks for amazing guide. But I have a question about my cpu oc. I have 8320 @ 4.1 GHZ with stock voltages.
> Mother board is ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0 and CPU cooler is Cooler Master HYPER LGA. I want to oc my CPU to 4.5 or 4.4 GHZ. I Couldn't set right voltages. Can you help me with that ?


Hello Blithe, welcome first off

now what you need to do is bump it up to 4.2 (assuming that it is stable at 4.1)
To test stability run IBT AVX on very high
secondly, if 4.1 is stable then go to 4.2 and up the voltages

That is about as detailed as I can get, we will need to know your voltages that are set your settings in addition, turn auto off in your BIOS and manually set the voltages. Are you using LLC?

3rdly go ahead and build your rig in the rig builder and attach it to the signature, it will help us help you as we go further into this, Overclocking is a fine art and it takes finess and patience,

Do not expect to set a clock and just put in voltages and it will work, each chip is different.


----------



## blithe

Hello
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Hello Blithe, welcome first off
> 
> now what you need to do is bump it up to 4.2 (assuming that it is stable at 4.1)
> To test stability run IBT AVX on very high
> secondly, if 4.1 is stable then go to 4.2 and up the voltages
> 
> That is about as detailed as I can get, we will need to know your voltages that are set your settings in addition, turn auto off in your BIOS and manually set the voltages. Are you using LLC?
> 
> 3rdly go ahead and build your rig in the rig builder and attach it to the signature, it will help us help you as we go further into this, Overclocking is a fine art and it takes finess and patience,
> 
> Do not expect to set a clock and just put in voltages and it will work, each chip is different.


Firstly, thanks for your reply. I want oc to 4.5 my cpu because of I am thinking it bottlenecking my gpu gtx 970. Anyway, I just set multiplier to 20.5 to reach 4.1 , turbo disable, cool and quiet, and all of below in that section disabled, power saving epu disabled. Else are auto. I ran 1.3 hours prime 65 small fft no error shows and my cpu max temp was 66 degree while prime 95 running.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blithe*
> 
> Hello
> Firstly, thanks for your reply. I want oc to 4.5 my cpu because of I am thinking it bottlenecking my gpu gtx 970. Anyway, I just set multiplier to 20.5 to reach 4.1 , turbo disable, cool and quiet, and all of below in that section disabled, power saving epu disabled. Else are auto. I ran 1.3 hours prime 65 small fft no error shows and my cpu max temp was 66 degree while prime 95 running.


download and install hwInfo64 and look at the package/core temp as that one will be the most vital,

The next step will be to bump it up to 21x multiplier,
test if stable if not then add voltage to cpu
adding voltages, although takes longer is best to do in the BIOS itself.

Only do a few ticks at a time and test for stability, once stable write down the voltage.. wash and repeat.. soon you will start seeing a trend for how much voltage you need to add, per 100mhz


----------



## blithe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> download and install hwInfo64 and look at the package/core temp as that one will be the most vital,
> 
> The next step will be to bump it up to 21x multiplier,
> test if stable if not then add voltage to cpu
> adding voltages, although takes longer is best to do in the BIOS itself.
> 
> Only do a few ticks at a time and test for stability, once stable write down the voltage.. wash and repeat.. soon you will start seeing a trend for how much voltage you need to add, per 100mhz


70 degree 1 hour prime 95 full load is normal ?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blithe*
> 
> 70 degree 1 hour prime 95 full load is normal ?


Here is the thing, I need both the socket temp and the core temp

Socket temp is the temp that your bios and computer reads, this is the one that you would see in lets say AIsuite, (which if you have that installed.. remove it) its super buggy
the socket temp is the actual socket and temp that is on the motherboard itself,

The core temp is a calculation that derives the reporting from an algorithm inside the chip itself, If core temp is > 72c you are way hot,
If socket temp is > 80c you are way hot

These are two different temps and need to have further information as to which one you are reporting to let you know,


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Here is the thing, I need both the socket temp and the core temp
> 
> Socket temp is the temp that your bios and computer reads, this is the one that you would see in lets say AIsuite, (which if you have that installed.. remove it) its super buggy
> the socket temp is the actual socket and temp that is on the motherboard itself,
> 
> The core temp is a calculation that derives the reporting from an algorithm inside the chip itself, If core temp is > 72c you are way hot,
> If socket temp is > 80c you are way hot
> 
> These are two different temps and need to have further information as to which one you are reporting to let you know,


Are we adjusting max temps AGAIN?









I stick with 72c as the max on both the socket and the cores.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are we adjusting max temps AGAIN?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I stick with 72c as the max on both the socket and the cores.


80c on socket has always been, the core is the 72c neither changed lol


----------



## Archea47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 80c on socket has always been, the core is the 72c neither changed lol


Okay, we're talking about older versions like 4130, right? I thought with Vishera the core limit is down to 62*C, or are we talking point of no return?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Archea47*
> 
> Okay, we're talking about older versions like 4130, right? I thought with Vishera the core limit is down to 62*C, or are we talking point of no return?


Where did you get that at?

I have been running mine for 2 years now at the temps I posted lol.. technically there was not a set limit and the temp was brought over from the phenoms but once AMD came out with Overdrive showing the thermal margin, if you did the math it points to 72c core

and sockets have always been safe to 80c, its on the toasty side for sure but not going to outright fry


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Where did you get that at?
> 
> I have been running mine for 2 years now at the temps I posted lol.. technically there was not a set limit and the temp was brought over from the phenoms but once AMD came out with Overdrive showing the thermal margin, if you did the math it points to 72c core
> 
> and sockets have always been safe to 80c, its on the toasty side for sure but not going to outright fry


I know the old limit was copied from the phenoms. But I can't recall ever hearing about 80c.

Thats somewhat a game changer


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I know the old limit was copied from the phenoms. But I can't recall ever hearing about 80c.
> 
> Thats somewhat a game changer


80c socket not core

sorry for the size but I think people got confused

Socket being the specification for the onboard heat sensor from the motherboard manufacturer


----------



## ringostar90

This guide helped me from the beginning of my journey of my 8320 to the wildebeest she is now. I originally had a Ga-78lmt-usb3 and was able to push it up to 4.5 with llc on and 1.5v, after reading this guide and many others like it on overclockers.net and tomshardware I decided to upgrade to an ASUS Sabretooth 990FX r2. BEST DECISION I EVER MADE. I currently run at 4.9GHZ stable temps reaching 65 after 1hour in prime95 with a cooler master seidon 240m mounted on the top of the case (4 fans pull out) I have 1 120m fan on the bottom front blowing in, 2 120m fans blowing in from the rear, power supply fan swapped to blow out, 120m fan on the side to blow in. ALL VOLTAGES ARE STOCK with the exception of the CPU at 1.5 with LLC @ Ultra High, CPU NB 1.25, CPU LLC HIGH, everything is followed to a T from the spoilers. I couldn't be any happier with a completely plug and play guide I only wish I would've gone with the Sabretooth 990FX r from the beginning. anyways, here's some computer porn, I overclocked my r7 260x as well with the gpu tweaker. anyone got a better program?


----------



## DigDeep

Msi afterburner


----------



## Stufi

Hi, I have my 8350 clocked to 4.6GHz at around ~1.30v. I have been using hwmonitor and hwinfo64 and sometimes after gaming or stress testing, hwmonitor shows a max temp of 193 degrees for the core, but HWiNFO's core temp is in the normal range. Is this a mistake in hwmonitor's part? Because I have read of a throttling technique used in Asus boards when VRM temps get too high, so it tells the computer that the CPU is too hot and it should be throttled. However it was said that it should show a value of 255 degrees and i havent noticed any throttling. I cant remember where I read it or if its even a real thing, I just came to check.


----------



## Mega Man

first do you use Celsius or Fahrenheit

second this is why we recommend NOT using hwmonitor it has been proven glitchy more then once. although hwinfo is not perfect it is updated far more often


----------



## Stufi

Celsius. Hwmonitor being buggy explains a lot so its probably nothing to worry about.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> Celsius. Hwmonitor being buggy explains a lot so its probably nothing to worry about.


Not likely it happens all the time. Was it something like this


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Not likely it happens all the time. Was it something like this


Yes, that looks about right. Except i've never caught it with the current temp being over 100 so i imagine its just a quick spike.


----------



## Johan45

That one is an anomalous reading from the software since the CHV doesn't have a sensor reporting for that temp but I have seen it many times. I use HWMonitor for the most part and it still works fine for me. I have heard that it can cause instabilities but have never witnessed it personally.


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> That one is an anomalous reading from the software since the CHV doesn't have a sensor reporting for that temp but I have seen it many times. I use HWMonitor for the most part and it still works fine for me. I have heard that it can cause instabilities but have never witnessed it personally.


I think I'll just stick to HWiNFO. Also gotta see if I can push my overclock a bit further once I get some vrm cooling.


----------



## Chopper1591

Core to post a shot after IBT?

Just slam some fans on the front and back of the vrm/socket section.


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Core to post a shot after IBT?
> 
> Just slam some fans on the front and back of the vrm/socket section.


Alright, but I have never used IBT before. I just ran it on the standard setting and passed. Is this a good program to test stability after overclocking, because it was pretty quick thing to do or should i stick to taking longer tests with OCCT/Prime? Standard seemed heavy as hell on the CPU, i wonder how heavy extreme would be. Tell me what stress level you want me to run it and do i post pics of IBT and HWiNFO with core and package temps?


----------



## Johan45

You got it stufi, run 10-20 passes on very high with the pics you mentioned. IBT AVX is a pretty tough stressor but it works.


----------



## Stufi

The results are in! I did 10 runs and I was using my computer while testing which seems to show from the speed results.


----------



## Johan45

It appears you have the wrong version of IBT. Use this one http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 it's the AVX version and you'll notice a big difference. Don't be surprised if it fails or you overheat at your current settings, this one's a lot tougher.


----------



## Stufi

I dont have much time right now so I ran a quick 2 run test on very high and it failed. Temps seemed to be about the same as on the other IBT, at least for the 2mins that test took. I'll look into it later today and maybe try raising the volts a bit.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> The results are in! I did 10 runs and I was using my computer while testing which seems to show from the speed results.


I suggest you to not use the system while you run IBT.
Shouldn't take that long anway, so be patient.









Looking at the current shot I think you would benefit from putting some air flow over the back of the cpu socket, if possible.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> It appears you have the wrong version of IBT. Use this one http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 it's the AVX version and you'll notice a big difference. Don't be surprised if it fails or you overheat at your current settings, this one's a lot tougher.


Johan is right.

Post back those results.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I dont have much time right now so I ran a quick 2 run test on very high and it failed. Temps seemed to be about the same as on the other IBT, at least for the 2mins that test took. I'll look into it later today and maybe try raising the volts a bit.


Hehe,
As we expected.

For me I can call it stable enough after 20 runs of IBT-avx on Very-High.


----------



## Johan45

Sure whenever you get around to it. There'll always be someone around to help you out if need be.


----------



## jleslie246

What frequency for cpu? I don't see it


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Sure whenever you get around to it. There'll always be someone around to help you out if need be.


For sure.









Number of experienced guys here is climbing every week.
Feel at home here. Hehe.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jleslie246*
> 
> What frequency for cpu? I don't see it


He was running 4.6.
I don't know if the above shot was still with the same settings though.


----------



## Johan45

Your avatar just kills me chopper. I have one of them at home that just stares at me like that till I tell her to shut up Mr Kitty.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Your avatar just kills me chopper. I have one of them at home that just stares at me like that till I tell her to shut up Mr Kitty.












I love it.
Can't recall how I found it, but it is there. For years.









Sounds like a funny cat/kitten you have there.
Is it still young?

On topic(sort of):
What do you guys think?

Currently running 3 Gentle Typhoon ap-15's on my UT60 rad. Love them.
What can I expect when I put the rad in push/pull?

If it is worth it, second problem comes in sight.... ap-15's are EOL. At least where I live.
Are there similar fans that will do okay when paired with a ap-15?
Buying 6 new fans will certainly not be worth it IMO.


----------



## Johan45

Ya MrKitty is a weirdo, she's 2yrs old. Loves water, leave the toilet seat up and she's in it playing in less than 30 seconds also like to pee in the basement sink for some reason.

What's the fin density on that rad ? If it's a higher density you would benefit from more fans. Found your scythes on amazon but $23 each which seems really pricy to me. http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-GentleTyphoon-D1225C12B5AP-15-120mm-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO

You could alwys try some of these yates, I thnk the specs are pretty similar. http://www.performance-pcs.com/120mm-fans/shopby/brand--yate-loon/


----------



## Stufi

Damn I can't make it pass. I raised the volts from about 1.30 to 1.45 and it still fails after second run. I have had it at 4.6GHz for quite a long time and i have never had any instabilities in games. I feel like i have to add a lot of voltage to make it stable.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> Looking at the current shot I think you would benefit from putting some air flow over the back of the cpu socket, if possible.


I have a fan right on the socket. I added it about six months ago I think, and at that time the temps were lowered by at least 10 degrees!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Ya MrKitty is a weirdo, she's 2yrs old. Loves water, leave the toilet seat up and she's in it playing in less than 30 seconds also like to pee in the basement sink for some reason.
> 
> What's the fin density on that rad ? If it's a higher density you would benefit from more fans. Found your scythes on amazon but $23 each which seems really pricy to me. http://www.amazon.com/Scythe-GentleTyphoon-D1225C12B5AP-15-120mm-Silent/dp/B001Q6RUVO
> 
> You could alwys try some of these yates, I thnk the specs are pretty similar. http://www.performance-pcs.com/120mm-fans/shopby/brand--yate-loon/


Ohh lol.
Thats weird indeed. And fun.

Caught mine a few times(not the one on the picture though, mine's black) drinking out of the toilet.
Last time he did it I heard massive noise coming out of the rest room. Rushed in to see what was going on there.
OMG. The lid was closed, cat gone, furr everywhere all over the toiler. And there was some blood on there too.
Poor fella made the lit close probably and got stuck in there.
No serious injury though.
But he did stop to drink from there.









Back to basics.

The rad is ~11 fpi. So it is rather low density. I mostly have my fans turned down completely through a NZXT Sentry Mesh(5 30w channels) which has a minimum of 40% fan power(roughly 700rpm).
That is indeed a bit pricey, too much for my liking. Although I really love these fans. Real quality IMO. Heavy and sturdy. Noise is also very pleasant.

Yates are very appealing indeed.
Although I am bit skeptic because I read different experiences with those. Quality control is a bit low... which is kinda understandable with the price they cost.
Also I can't find some good info on static pressure of those.

I can buy them cheap though:
1350 rpm's for 5.95 euro(7 usd) and 1650 and 2200 rpm's for 6.50 euro.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> Damn I can't make it pass. I raised the volts from about 1.30 to 1.45 and it still fails after second run. I have had it at 4.6GHz for quite a long time and i have never had any instabilities in games. I feel like i have to add a lot of voltage to make it stable.
> 
> I have a fan right on the socket. I added it about six months ago I think, and at that time the temps were lowered by at least 10 degrees!


My bad.
Missed that.

That was about the same I achieved with a fan at the back of the socket. Massive change, right?









Can you post full bios settings?
I believe you are able to make screenshots on the bios.

There is probably something else that is playing with you.

And you say stable in games for a long time.
When it fails IBT, and certainly that fast, it aint stable by far.
Not trying to ruin your game... that's just what it is.

And it is completely up to you to choose what you want to run, but personally I wouldn't want a system that unstable.
You will crash eventually and thus have risk of losing data when you are doing important stuff.


----------



## Chopper1591

Oops.

Spaced out.

Double post.


----------



## Stufi

Strange. When I said I've had these clocks for quite a long time, I meant months. I have played a bunch of games (learning BF4 at the moment) without any crashes. But yes, it seems very unstable indeed. Something must be done and I dont feel comfortable going much higher in volts without a fan blowing on the VRM, even though my CPU cooler should give it pretty good airflow. Someone once told me a while back that I probably shouldn't go higher than 1.45V without active VRM cooling and I've been sticking to that rule even though I don't know how close or far it is from the truth.
 








Anyways, here are the pics from my BIOS:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> Strange. When I said I've had these clocks for quite a long time, I meant months. I have played a bunch of games (learning BF4 at the moment) without any crashes. But yes, it seems very unstable indeed. Something must be done and I dont feel comfortable going much higher in volts without a fan blowing on the VRM, even though my CPU cooler should give it pretty good airflow. Someone once told me a while back that I probably shouldn't go higher than 1.45V without active VRM cooling and I've been sticking to that rule even though I don't know how close or far it is from the truth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, here are the pics from my BIOS:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ah well...
The game of overclocking is weird sometimes, but that is also the fun of it. If it is easy.. it is boring IMO.









Well.
I need to get some shut eye soon, alarm will wake me up early again tomorrow morning.
So Mega or someone else will probably fill me in. It's about time he wakes up from whatever he is doing(Hey Mega







).

If there is no reply tomorrow I will hit you back on it.

Although, I agree: put some fan(s) over the vrm area. But you are also right, the cpu fan should cool it also. More then my water block at least(that aint giving airflow).


----------



## Johan45

You'll likely have to raise your CPU_NB voltage to 1.25v and set your ram to 1.65-1.67 , also try 2.56v for the VDDA see if that helps if not then you'll just need more V_Core voltage. That's about where my M5A pro fell apart and I had a hell of a time stabilizing it.


----------



## Stufi

Will raising these settings produce a lot of heat?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> Will raising these settings produce a lot of heat?


Try and see...
I don't expect a massive increase.

Kinda depends on how much voltage your cpu-nb has now.
It does add heat. But how much, no idea.

I would start with upping the cpu-nb to 1.2v-1.25v and and run IBT again, post back if you are not sure if your good.


----------



## Stufi

I raised NB voltage from 1.2v a few steps and IBT lasted five runs until it failed. Improvement! Anyway, I rebooted and started hitting delete when my screen went dark but it never woke so I held the power button for a while. After booting up I got an "overclocking failed" message and it put me into bios. I ignored it and exited without saving and it booted. Wonder what happened? I'll take NB up to 1.25v to see if that helps even more

E: It happened again when I rebooted. I brought NB back to 1.2v and also put CPU voltage down two steps. Now it's been booting normally.

E2: This is really weird. Is -1 a valid result in IBT? I havent done anything after lowering NB and Vcore, I just thought I'd do a quick test with these settings and this happened:

That's the best result I've had with IBT AVX even though it... Shouldn't be this way.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I raised NB voltage from 1.2v a few steps and IBT lasted five runs until it failed. Improvement! Anyway, I rebooted and started hitting delete when my screen went dark but it never woke so I held the power button for a while. After booting up I got an "overclocking failed" message and it put me into bios. I ignored it and exited without saving and it booted. Wonder what happened? I'll take NB up to 1.25v to see if that helps even more
> 
> E: It happened again when I rebooted. I brought NB back to 1.2v and also put CPU voltage down two steps. Now it's been booting normally.
> 
> E2: This is really weird. Is -1 a valid result in IBT? I havent done anything after lowering NB and Vcore, I just thought I'd do a quick test with these settings and this happened:
> 
> 
> 
> That's the best result I've had with IBT AVX even though it... Shouldn't be this way.


thats ibt talk for moar volts









negative readout is regarded as unstable


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I raised NB voltage from 1.2v a few steps and IBT lasted five runs until it failed. Improvement! Anyway, I rebooted and started hitting delete when my screen went dark but it never woke so I held the power button for a while. After booting up I got an "overclocking failed" message and it put me into bios. I ignored it and exited without saving and it booted. Wonder what happened? I'll take NB up to 1.25v to see if that helps even more
> 
> E: It happened again when I rebooted. I brought NB back to 1.2v and also put CPU voltage down two steps. Now it's been booting normally.
> 
> E2: This is really weird. Is -1 a valid result in IBT? I havent done anything after lowering NB and Vcore, I just thought I'd do a quick test with these settings and this happened:
> 
> That's the best result I've had with IBT AVX even though it... Shouldn't be this way.


- values is instable indeed.

Black screen could be various things.
For me it is sometimes ram related.

You best disable APM Master Mode while you work on your overclock. Can be enabled after you find your stable clock.
Raise your ram voltage so it reads 1.65v in bios, it is now at around 1.62v by looking at your screenshots.

What are your ram specs?
I recommend you to set stuff manual in the bios, memory frequency and timings. Could very well be the cause of the black screen and OC failed.

Also, wait for the bios post image before pressing delete. I've had issues sometimes when hitting the keyboard too early while booting.

Edit:

Did a quick IBT run for you to compare.



Note small difference in core and socket temp, proper airflow over the socket.
4.8ghz with 1.5v(bios set) with peak voltage of 1.524v under load.
Cpu-nb at 2680 with 1.35v.
Ram at 2140 c8.

Here was a shot I did a few weeks ago, 20 runs IBT Very-High. That's enough for me to call it stable:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Stufi

I have a pair of these: http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/khx1600c9d3k2_8gx.pdf

Your temps are nice! I just passed 8 runs when i changed cpu nb to 1.25v and vcore to 1.45. My socket did go to 68 degrees though.

How did you achieve a good socket airflow? I just have one fan back there and my socket gets quite a bit hotter than yours and your vcore is 1.5v!


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I have a pair of these: http://www.kingston.com/datasheets/khx1600c9d3k2_8gx.pdf
> 
> Your temps are nice! I just passed 8 runs when i changed cpu nb to 1.25v and vcore to 1.45. My socket did go to 68 degrees though.
> 
> How did you achieve a good socket airflow? I just have one fan back there and my socket gets quite a bit hotter than yours and your vcore is 1.5v!


Hmm...
It actually looks like your ram is rated for 1.5v.
Look on the web to see if you can find full a full timings table for your set. So you can set it manual in the bios.

I have a 120mm fan on the side panel blowing cold air on the back of the socket.
Maybe your's has a bit low cfm?
Or your ambient is higher. Could be multiple things.

I don't know how big the impact is by the cooler itself. I do have a custom loop after all.

68c is fine under IBT.
Are you talking about cpu or package(core) temps? Cores are good up to ~72c, socket can go to 80c but I like it 70c or lower personally.

Have you tried cooler re-mount though?
Your's is a top tier air cooler, I kinda expect better performance from it. Got no experience with the D15 though. My last air cooler was a Mugen 2.


----------



## miklkit

With air cooling the case air flow is very important or it is just blowing hot air around inside the case. That case looks to be very restrictive.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> With air cooling the case air flow is very important or it is just blowing hot air around inside the case. That case looks to be very restrictive.


Uhmm.

Who are you replying to?
Its better to use the quote thingy.

If you are talking about Stufi:
That case is actually pretty good IMO.

No we are talking about it, *Stufi*:
Can you show a picture of the fan you have blowing over the socket? Did you mod the case? The side panel on the rear side of the board is solid, right?


----------



## Stufi

I took the fan from my previous CPU cooler, the 212 EVO, and yes the side panel is solid and I havent done any modifications to it so it could be better. About the CPU cooler; the first time I installed it last summer, i used too much thermal paste so I reinstalled it a bit later and used Arctic Silver and it cooled much better. I don't know if there is something wrong with it or my chip is just not the best for overclocking. Back when I bought the 212 Evo, I couldn't overclock it because it became unstable as soon as I put it to 4300MHz and adding more volts made it too hot. Something to note though is that the case is a bit dusty at the moment. I will clean it very soon once I get my new merchandise so I can move my hard drives to the 5.25 bay and remove the bottom hard drive cage to get better airflow. I will also add a two Noctua redux coolers to the front and move the current front Noctua to the back as exhaust. There is also a fan on the bottom.

This is the latest on stability front with 1.25v CPU/NB and 1.45v Vcore:


E: Oh, and back when I said the temp reached 68 degrees I was talking about socket temp. I dont usually look at core because its not a "real" temperature. It was also quite warm in the room, probably from all that testing


----------



## miklkit

The pictures of Stufi's case that I saw show the intake fans blowing against the hard drive cages, which are turned sideways. No airflow there. I didn't see a bottom fan. It looks like the case exhaust fan is doing all the work which means there is not much air flow and the flow is going from the bottom front to the top rear. That means that video card heat is also going there. Maybe that is why the socket is so hot.


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> The pictures of Stufi's case that I saw show the intake fans blowing against the hard drive cages, which are turned sideways. No airflow there. I didn't see a bottom fan. It looks like the case exhaust fan is doing all the work which means there is not much air flow and the flow is going from the bottom front to the top rear. That means that video card heat is also going there. Maybe that is why the socket is so hot.


Did you see my profile picture? It's old'ish but thats pretty much the way it is now.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I took the fan from my previous CPU cooler, the 212 EVO, and yes the side panel is solid and I havent done any modifications to it so it could be better. About the CPU cooler; the first time I installed it last summer, i used too much thermal paste so I reinstalled it a bit later and used Arctic Silver and it cooled much better. I don't know if there is something wrong with it or my chip is just not the best for overclocking. Back when I bought the 212 Evo, I couldn't overclock it because it became unstable as soon as I put it to 4300MHz and adding more volts made it too hot. Something to note though is that the case is a bit dusty at the moment. I will clean it very soon once I get my new merchandise so I can move my hard drives to the 5.25 bay and remove the bottom hard drive cage to get better airflow. I will also add a two Noctua redux coolers to the front and move the current front Noctua to the back as exhaust. There is also a fan on the bottom.
> 
> This is the latest on stability front with 1.25v CPU/NB and 1.45v Vcore:
> 
> 
> E: Oh, and back when I said the temp reached 68 degrees I was talking about socket temp. I dont usually look at core because its not a "real" temperature. It was also quite warm in the room, probably from all that testing


Core is "real". Where did you get that information?
True, on idle the core temp is way of but on load it is actually pretty accurate. At least as far as software monitoring is accurate at all.

Did you try to set the ram manual? Freq. and timings?

Seems like you are gaining something.

Haha, there he is again: the goold ol' 212 cooler.
Surprised you even got to 4.3 with that one.

Well. You could Always try and do a re-mount to see if you get slightly better temps.
Although you are probably better of to compare your temps with someone with the same chip and cooler.

But, after all.
If you manage to cool the socket down some more with a mod to the side panel you will probably be able to take the chip to at least 1.475v with that cooler.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> Did you see my profile picture? It's old'ish but thats pretty much the way it is now.


Your airflow setup looks okay IMO.


----------



## Stufi

I meant core doesn't have a sensor so I do keep an eye on it but socket is always higher and it's reported by a sensor so I usually use that as reference to how much overclocking headroom I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> Did you try to set the ram manual? Freq. and timings?


Yes... And no. I have manually set the RAM frequency and I set DRAM voltage to 1.65v. I looked at the timings and it was just an overwhelming list of settings and I have no idea what they are so I left them at auto. I'll try to look for what values I should set them to. Haven't experienced any black screens or overclocking failed messages anymore though, it ended once I set NB/CPU volts back to 1.2 and the problem didnt return once raised it again to 1.25v.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I meant core doesn't have a sensor so I do keep an eye on it but socket is always higher and it's reported by a sensor so I usually use that as reference to how much overclocking headroom I have.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> Did you try to set the ram manual? Freq. and timings?
> 
> 
> 
> Yes... And no. I have manually set the RAM frequency and I set DRAM voltage to 1.65v. I looked at the timings and it was just an overwhelming list of settings and I have no idea what they are so I left them at auto. I'll try to look for what values I should set them to. Haven't experienced any black screens or overclocking failed messages anymore though, it ended once I set NB/CPU volts back to 1.2 and the problem didnt return once raised it again to 1.25v.
Click to expand...

No sense re-inventing the wheel so here's a link with some bios pics from a CHV-z, very similar to your M5A http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/753109-Upgrade-or-OC?p=7774105&viewfull=1#post7774105


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> No sense re-inventing the wheel so here's a link with some bios pics from a CHV-z, very similar to your M5A http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php/753109-Upgrade-or-OC?p=7774105&viewfull=1#post7774105


I don't get the relation with Stufi's post and your reply...

Adviced him earlier to manually set the ram freq and timings.
He doesn't know what to do and said he will search for the proper data, which I adviced before also.

Good link, that's for sure.
But in his case it would be better to have a link with the proper timings of his ram set.


----------



## umeng2002

Normal IBT is a bit hotter than AVX IBT on my 8320e. Everyone is saying it's more strenuous, but is it really?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Normal IBT is a bit hotter than AVX IBT on my 8320e. Everyone is saying it's more strenuous, but is it really?


Is it?

Don't have a complete answer for you.
More importantly is to run it on very-high or higher.


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> I don't get the relation with Stufi's post and your reply...
> 
> Adviced him earlier to manually set the ram freq and timings.
> He doesn't know what to do and said he will search for the proper data, which I adviced before also.
> 
> Good link, that's for sure.
> But in his case it would be better to have a link with the proper timings of his ram set.


I have (likely) found the correct values, they are 9-9-9-27 and im running memtest at the moment to make sure it works. So far so good.

Also thanks to Johan for that link. It didn't show the values for my RAM but it was really helpful anyway as i wasn't at all familiar with setting timings in bios.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I have (likely) found the correct values, they are 9-9-9-27 and im running memtest at the moment to make sure it works. So far so good.
> 
> Also thanks to Johan for that link. It didn't show the values for my RAM but it was really helpful anyway as i wasn't at all familiar with setting timings in bios.


Those are pretty standard timings.
I think you can run the ram at 1.5v with those. Can you try that?


----------



## TheLandstander

@Stufi - Did you actually get a temperature drop strapping the fan to blank back side of the case without cutting?


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> @Stufi - Did you actually get a temperature drop strapping the fan to blank back side of the case without cutting?


Yes I did and it wasn't just one or two degrees, it was close to ten degrees while prime testing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> I think you can run the ram at 1.5v with those. Can you try that?


Sure, I'll try that tomorrow. I checked the side of the actual sticks and it said 1.65v though.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> Yes I did and it wasn't just one or two degrees, it was close to ten degrees while prime testing.


Zuh? I may have to try that.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I checked the side of the actual sticks and it said 1.65v though.


Enter timings and voltage that are written directly on Dram and start with that.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Enter timings and voltage that are written directly on Dram and start with that.


Simple enough.
Why didn't I think about that.









Was doing too difficult, finding stuff on the web and all. Haha.
Give this man a +rep for me.


----------



## Stufi

I only saw voltage written on it. I got timings from Kingston's site. Seems to be working perfectly.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I only saw voltage written on it. I got timings from Kingston's site. Seems to be working perfectly.


Really?
Weird.

Ah well. How is progress on the OC?
Side panel switch made any difference?


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Is it?
> 
> Don't have a complete answer for you.
> More importantly is to run it on very-high or higher.


Yes, I only run it on max for stress testing. AVX version is like 4 C core temp cooler than the normal version. I know AVX is working since my GFLOPS jump to 80 something. Although I think I'm done with Intel burn test because I've had stable max 10 runs pass but then fail Prime95 in a few seconds.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Yes, I only run it on max for stress testing. AVX version is like 4 C core temp cooler than the normal version. I know AVX is working since my GFLOPS jump to 80 something. Although I think I'm done with Intel burn test because I've had stable max 10 runs pass but then fail Prime95 in a few seconds.


True.
Same goes for the other way around.

The best would be to do a combination.
But I just stopped using prime.

Everyone's one taste, right?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Is it?
> 
> Don't have a complete answer for you.
> More importantly is to run it on very-high or higher.
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, I only run it on max for stress testing. AVX version is like 4 C core temp cooler than the normal version. I know AVX is working since my GFLOPS jump to 80 something. Although I think I'm done with Intel burn test because I've had stable max 10 runs pass but then fail Prime95 in a few seconds.
Click to expand...

exactly how much ram are you using ?


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> exactly how much ram are you using ?


I have 8GB in my system, and I put it on max, so over 6 GB.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> exactly how much ram are you using ?


What do you think Mega?
You have also been around the scene for a while and gained experience over the past few years.

I keep my testing through IBT.
20 runs of ibt-avx very-high is enough.

Agree?


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Really?
> Weird.
> 
> Ah well. How is progress on the OC?
> Side panel switch made any difference?


I did some tests with the panel switch and tried a few different ways to place the fan because the slot on the wall isn't directly on top of the socket. A case mod like yours would probably be much better. Anyways, the best I got out of it was around 4 degrees cooler than with the closed panel, so no huge difference there, but it's definetly worth the change. I didn't make it permanent though and i'm back to my old ways as I'll order my new fans today or tomorrow and I'll add a dust filter along with them. When they arrive I'll clean my pc of dust and make the changes. I wonder if a bigger/better fan to the socket would make any difference? Is the 212 Evo fan any good?

As for overclocking, I just can't seem to make it stable at 4600MHz.You'd think that 1.45v would be enough but no. Johan told me to add some VDDA voltage earlier but I haven't touched that yet. Perhaps I should.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I did some tests with the panel switch and tried a few different ways to place the fan because the slot on the wall isn't directly on top of the socket. A case mod like yours would probably be much better. Anyways, the best I got out of it was around 4 degrees cooler than with the closed panel, so no huge difference there, but it's definetly worth the change. I didn't make it permanent though and i'm back to my old ways as I'll order my new fans today or tomorrow and I'll add a dust filter along with them. When they arrive I'll clean my pc of dust and make the changes. I wonder if a bigger/better fan to the socket would make any difference? Is the 212 Evo fan any good?
> 
> As for overclocking, I just can't seem to make it stable at 4600MHz.You'd think that 1.45v would be enough but no. Johan told me to add some VDDA voltage earlier but I haven't touched that yet. Perhaps I should.


The 212 evo fan is pretty good. If you can stand the noise though.
Spec's:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Fan Dimension 120 x 120 x 25 mm (4.7 x 4.7 x 1 in)
Fan Speed 600 - 2,000 RPM (PWM) ± 10%
Fan Airflow 24.9 - 82.9 CFM ± 10%
Fan Air Pressure 0.3 - 2.7mm H2O ± 10%
Fan Life Expectancy 40,000hrs
Fan Noise Level (dB-A) 9 - 36 dBA dBA Reference
Bearing Type Long Life Sleeve Bearing
Connector 4-Pin
Fan Rated Voltage 12 VDC
Fan Rated Current 0.22A



Overclock:
So, you are sure you are stable with the 4.5 clock?
If so, dial back the vcore somewhat(what was it on 4.5 again?) and set the vdda to 2.55v
The cpu-nb was already a bit higher then stock? Around 1.2v-1.25v should be sufficient.

You could also try your luck with an increased fsb.
Set it to something between 220-240, choose something that lets you keep your cpu-nb, ht and ram around the same clocks.


----------



## Stufi

I just did a quick check to make sure 4.5GHz is stable, so I decreased clocks to 4.5 but left all the other stuff untouched, so it's still at 1.45v. It went through all ten runs fine but after the last run is finished it says something about linpack binary stopping which may be caused by unstable system. So I tried two runs and again, went fine but after the last one finishes it gives me the binary error. I had this a couple of times with 4.6 clocks as well. Is this a bug in the software or is my system really unstable with those volts even at 4.5GHz?


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> I just did a quick check to make sure 4.5GHz is stable, so I decreased clocks to 4.5 but left all the other stuff untouched, so it's still at 1.45v. It went through all ten runs fine but after the last run is finished it says something about linpack binary stopping which may be caused by unstable system. So I tried two runs and again, went fine but after the last one finishes it gives me the binary error. I had this a couple of times with 4.6 clocks as well. Is this a bug in the software or is my system really unstable with those volts even at 4.5GHz?


Are you running windows 8(.1)?
if so, change compatibility to windows 7:

Should solve it.

If you do pass it though, it has nothing to do with your system not liking high voltage.
There is something else causing troubles.


----------



## Stufi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are you running windows 8(.1)?
> if so, change compatibility to windows 7:
> 
> Should solve it.
> 
> If you do pass it though, it has nothing to do with your system not liking high voltage.
> There is something else causing troubles.


This did the trick! Yes, it passed with 1.45v at 4.5GHz. Went down a bit and passed at 1.425v also.

E: Passed 10 runs of IBT with 1.412v at 4.5GHz. Tried even lower but didn't pass anymore. How does 4.6GHz not run with a voltage of 1.45v :/


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> exactly how much ram are you using ?
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think Mega?
> You have also been around the scene for a while and gained experience over the past few years.
> 
> I keep my testing through IBT.
> 20 runs of ibt-avx very-high is enough.
> 
> Agree?
Click to expand...

it is personal choice, as to the passing ibtavx but failing prime,

just because you pass one test does not mean you are stable with all. each tests different things, i start with ibtavxand then generally goto prime for at least 12 hours but again stability is subjective, just dont assume it is stable when you use cinebench for it. ..... go with normal stable for that group


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chopper1591*
> 
> Are you running windows 8(.1)?
> if so, change compatibility to windows 7:
> 
> Should solve it.
> 
> If you do pass it though, it has nothing to do with your system not liking high voltage.
> There is something else causing troubles.


Thanks for the tip. I was having this issue too. Since all the results were the same, but it gave that error at the end of the last run had me confused.


----------



## Chopper1591

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is personal choice, as to the passing ibtavx but failing prime,
> 
> just because you pass one test does not mean you are stable with all. each tests different things, i start with ibtavxand then generally goto prime for at least 12 hours but again stability is subjective, just dont assume it is stable when you use cinebench for it. ..... go with normal stable for that group


True.

I know, cinebench is eh... a bench.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Thanks for the tip. I was having this issue too. Since all the results were the same, but it gave that error at the end of the last run had me confused.


Yeah, I know the feeling.

Credits go to another guy here though. Don't remember who, but he told me to put it on compatibility mode.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> 80c socket not core
> 
> sorry for the size but I think people got confused
> 
> Socket being the specification for the onboard heat sensor from the motherboard manufacturer


Jumping in a few days late, but...

I've worked with, or not much over, the suggested 62C Core and 72C Socket that has generally been "accepted" as the limits throughout the three threads I've followed with regards to Vishera. I've occasionally let the cores get up to 66C, but I observed throttling at 68C Core. I did not observe my socket at the specific instances of throttling, however, when my temps are up that high, the socket is always 8C to 10C hotter than the Cores.

I have an 8350, and two 9590's, all tested in the same Asus CHV-fZ. Currently using 9590 #1, with a Nepton 280L.

I'd suggest always staying under 65C Core / 75C Socket: being that close to the "throttling" threshold can not be good for CPU lifespan (part of the reason I purchased a second 9590).


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Jumping in a few days late, but...
> 
> I've worked with, or not much over, the suggested 62C Core and 72C Socket that has generally been "accepted" as the limits throughout the three threads I've followed with regards to Vishera. I've occasionally let the cores get up to 66C, but I observed throttling at 68C Core. I did not observe my socket at the specific instances of throttling, however, when my temps are up that high, the socket is always 8C to 10C hotter than the Cores.
> 
> I have an 8350, and two 9590's, all tested in the same Asus CHV-fZ. Currently using 9590 #1, with a Nepton 280L.
> 
> I'd suggest always staying under 65C Core / 75C Socket: being that close to the "throttling" threshold can not be good for CPU lifespan (part of the reason I purchased a second 9590).


Im 2 years in and a guinea pig 72c core hasnt harmed me


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Im 2 years in and a guinea pig 72c core hasnt harmed me


Nor has it harmed my setup, as I only ever hit it when stress testing, which only happens when I grab a new chip









I would speculate that my socket was at around 78C when I experienced throttling, because it consistently occurred with core temps reaching 68C.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> it is personal choice, as to the passing ibtavx but failing prime,
> 
> just because you pass one test does not mean you are stable with all. each tests different things, i start with ibtavxand then generally goto prime for at least 12 hours but again stability is subjective, just dont assume it is stable when you use cinebench for it. ..... go with normal stable for that group


I tend to "torture" the hell out of my PC to prove out stability: with stock settings, I can run any prime95 test for a week, and simultaneously loop benchmark tests on top of that, with no issues whatsoever. makes a great "space heater" in the winter, as well!

I expect the same from my OC's. It reassures me that I won't have some random program crash, freeze up or BSD down the road


----------



## umeng2002

Just an FYI, the current AMD overdrive only gives thermal margin now, and guess what, basing off other temp software, it's 70C for the core temp - HWiNFO64 reads 60 C and AMD Overdrive reports 10 C thermal margin.


----------



## Karameikos

The 68C Core causing "throttling" that I referred to was reported by Core Temp 64. I actually only noticed because at the time I was using an H80i, and I heard the fans spin down momentarily every so often while I was testing for stability. Ever since, I've deliberately stayed at 66C and under.


----------



## Stufi

Managed to make 4.6GHz stable with ~1.46v. It's a significant increase compared to 4.5GHz which is stable at 1.418v. It's probably wise to stop here as the volts needed for +100MHz is getting ridiculous.

Hm, not sure if i should stay here or revert to 4.5, the voltage increase is ridiculous. I could try to tweak it a little, might work with one step lower vcore, also dropping LLC would drop the max vcore a bit, yes? Anyway, now that I have found stable values for both 4.5 and 4.6GHz, I can enable some of the power saving settings in bios? Which ones can I enable and can they cause instability? Also, I dont remember if this CPU underclocked itself automatically in idle at stock settings? If so, is it possible to enable this power saving feature too while being overclocked?


----------



## Rob The Robot

Hi guys, I've followed the guide very closely and I have a stable (at least 2 hours prime 95) 4.7Ghz with 1.375v set in bios and a Semi-stable (20-30 mins on prime 95) 4.9Ghz 1.4375 set in bios with 2 cores disabled. Both have power saving options re-enabled and neither has crashed yet as far as I'm aware.

If I am staying under 60c during load with my 4.9Ghz setup can I use this as a daily gamer?
4.8Ghz all cores enabled seemed to be unattainable for me as well (high thermals and much higher vcore needed).

I am very new to this as it is my first build and overclock, just curious to find out if I'm doing this right.


----------



## MaddMutt

Be happy, as my Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 R1.x and FX-8320 can't be adjusted under AOD.








I can raise the voltage only 1 notch. If I raise it higher and click apply, the CPU automatically gets bumped down to 2.7GHz.








This has also been confirmed with CPU-Z, AIDA64, and SisoftSandra. I overclock using the BIOS.


----------



## MaddMutt

I will not admit to being a hard core OCer, as some of these guys are. My knowledge is limited to Gigabyte motherboards and non UEFI BIOSes. My Gigabyte 990FXA-UD5 R1.x and FX-8320 could run 24/7 @ 4.5GHz with 1.45v. Now going from 4.5GHz to 5GHz would require 1.7v or more for a stable 20 - 30 min benchmark run. I didnot feel good leaving it that high for extended periods.

But at the same time, I did a benchrun using AIDA64 @ 5087Ghz with 1.4875 on my signature rig (Christmas)








Asus is currently working on replacing the FRIED VRM mosfet and the FX-8350 is junk. The Gigabyte boards would give a absolute value, instead of the Asus offset value. If I'm at 1.40v and add + 50mv, it would tell me that I'm @ 1.450v.

Replying to your post : If you are under 60c under load, then you are doing good.








Here is a good question for you : 4.7GHz with 6 cores or 4.9GHz with 4 cores?????
Do you have any other piece of hardware overclocked??????
I noticed that you have a Corsair CX-600 that is rated @ 49A - 552W
Your video card has a 8+6 pin power connection and I also Believe that you have that OCed as-well????
Your Video card can draw upto 75W from the motherboard, the 8 pin will draw 150W, and the 6 pin will draw 75W. That is 300W gone before you even touch the CPU.
If that is going to be your GAMING RIG, I would look at upgrading the power supply to at least a 850 Watt unit. I think you might be overloading the power supply and it has not shown it yet.
http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/tools/volts-watts-amps-converter

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-TX850M-Enthusiast-Series-Power-Supply-850W-Modular-80-PLUS-Bronze-certi-/121411623144?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c44b258e8
for $59.95 and free shipping.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob The Robot*
> 
> Hi guys, I've followed the guide very closely and I have a stable (at least 2 hours prime 95) 4.7Ghz with 1.375v set in bios and a Semi-stable (20-30 mins on prime 95) 4.9Ghz 1.4375 set in bios with 2 cores disabled. Both have power saving options re-enabled and neither has crashed yet as far as I'm aware.
> 
> If I am staying under 60c during load with my 4.9Ghz setup can I use this as a daily gamer?
> 4.8Ghz all cores enabled seemed to be unattainable for me as well (high thermals and much higher vcore needed).


I don't have an x6 chip on hand, but I do have 3 x8 chips: all of them take more than 1.4V to get stable at 4.7GHz. To get 4.9GHz stable requires around 1.5V+, depending on how many sticks of RAM I use and what speed I set them to. I'd expect the x6 chips would fare better regarding voltage, but peak earlier with max core clock.

I don't recall receiving an error in Prime 95 beyond the 2 hour 5 minute mark on Blend recently (that timed error happened this week). So if you run Small FFT's for an hour, and Blend for three hours, you are probably ok. Personally, I test quite a bit more.

I don't use power saving options, so cannot speak to the settings. That said, a gaming machine is unlikely to ever near the temps you experienced under 100% Load, unless your ambient temps change significantly.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> If that is going to be your GAMING RIG, I would look at upgrading the power supply to at least a 850 Watt unit. I think you might be overloading the power supply and it has not shown it yet.


100% agree with this: pay attention to the PSU's available current per 12V Rail, and make sure there at least two 12V rails.


----------



## Rob The Robot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> Here is a good question for you : 4.7GHz with 6 cores or 4.9GHz with 4 cores?????
> Do you have any other piece of hardware overclocked??????
> I noticed that you have a Corsair CX-600 that is rated @ 49A - 552W
> Your video card has a 8+6 pin power connection and I also Believe that you have that OCed as-well????
> Your Video card can draw upto 75W from the motherboard, the 8 pin will draw 150W, and the 6 pin will draw 75W. That is 300W gone before you even touch the CPU.
> If that is going to be your GAMING RIG, I would look at upgrading the power supply to at least a 850 Watt unit. I think you might be overloading the power supply and it has not shown it yet.
> http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/tools/volts-watts-amps-converter
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-TX850M-Enthusiast-Series-Power-Supply-850W-Modular-80-PLUS-Bronze-certi-/121411623144?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c44b258e8
> for $59.95 and free shipping.


4.7 is all 6 and 4.9 is 4. I use 4.9 for better single core performance in some games.

Evga GTX 760sc 2GB is OC'D +27mhz core and +550 mem stock voltage

Adata Ram Is set using D.O.C.P xmp profile 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 1.5v

6 Case fans, no optical drive, 1 HD, and maybe an ssd down the road

Evga says total power draw is 170w. The Fx6300 stock is 95 watts but have no idea if its that simple.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> 100% agree with this: pay attention to the PSU's available current per 12V Rail, and make sure there at least two 12V rails.


I exceed Evga's recommendations for the +12v rail amps and checked that when I bought the power supply, do I need a much higher rating? I also read that having multi rails is not essential and more of a gimmick.

Basically I am curious if my system will be ok and what the worst case scenario is. I really don't want to have to swap the PSU because my case is tiny and would require an almost complete tear down.

I really appreciate all the input, thanks.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> If that is going to be your GAMING RIG, I would look at upgrading the power supply to at least a 850 Watt unit. I think you might be overloading the power supply and it has not shown it yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 100% agree with this: pay attention to the PSU's available current per 12V Rail, and make sure there at least two 12V rails.
Click to expand...

ummm

why ?


----------



## MaddMutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob The Robot*
> 
> 4.7 is all 6 and 4.9 is 4. I use 4.9 for better single core performance in some games.
> 
> Evga GTX 760sc 2GB is OC'D +27mhz core and +550 mem stock voltage
> 
> Adata Ram Is set using D.O.C.P xmp profile 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
> 
> 6 Case fans, no optical drive, 1 HD, and maybe an ssd down the road
> 
> Evga says total power draw is 170w. The Fx6300 stock is 95 watts but have no idea if its that simple.
> I exceed Evga's recommendations for the +12v rail amps and checked that when I bought the power supply, do I need a much higher rating? I also read that having multi rails is not essential and more of a gimmick.
> 
> Basically I am curious if my system will be ok and what the worst case scenario is. I really don't want to have to swap the PSU because my case is tiny and would require an almost complete tear down.
> 
> I really appreciate all the input, thanks.


Grab GPU-Z. After you have it installed, click on sensors tab. At the bottom of the screen, check "record log file". It will pop up asking where to save it, chose a location that you can find easy. Now drop GPU-Z to the taskbar and run a 3D game/benchmark for at least 5 minutes. After your done, go back and open the GPU-Z log file and find the highest Number in amps. Multiply this by 1.5(Volts) AMPs + Volts = Watts
Evga says total power draw is 170w.. Are you running a EVGA power supply or a Corsair CX-600??????
Evga says total power draw is 170w.. Did you input your overclocking information?????
The AMD 6300 will run a 95 watts, only @ stock speed. Once you start overclocking, that number goes out the window. This is also TRUE for YOUR VIDEO CARD.
A power supply on the ropes is very hard to diagnose. You'll have random BSODS, memory errors, hard drives dropping out of raid, and many other symptoms that seem to point at other hardware items and not the PSU.
I apologize but sleep is hitting me hard along with fatigue from my sickness. I was diagnosed with Leukemia 2 years ago
Hopefully some one else will pick up my thoughts and finish help you. For all I know, I could just have easy been rambling about nothing.

Thank You For Your Time
In Reading And Replying


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob The Robot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> Here is a good question for you : 4.7GHz with 6 cores or 4.9GHz with 4 cores?????
> Do you have any other piece of hardware overclocked??????
> I noticed that you have a Corsair CX-600 that is rated @ 49A - 552W
> Your video card has a 8+6 pin power connection and I also Believe that you have that OCed as-well????
> Your Video card can draw upto 75W from the motherboard, the 8 pin will draw 150W, and the 6 pin will draw 75W. That is 300W gone before you even touch the CPU.
> If that is going to be your GAMING RIG, I would look at upgrading the power supply to at least a 850 Watt unit. I think you might be overloading the power supply and it has not shown it yet.
> http://www.supercircuits.com/resources/tools/volts-watts-amps-converter
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-TX850M-Enthusiast-Series-Power-Supply-850W-Modular-80-PLUS-Bronze-certi-/121411623144?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c44b258e8
> for $59.95 and free shipping.
> 
> 
> 
> 4.7 is all 6 and 4.9 is 4. I use 4.9 for better single core performance in some games.
> 
> Evga GTX 760sc 2GB is OC'D +27mhz core and +550 mem stock voltage
> 
> Adata Ram Is set using D.O.C.P xmp profile 1600mhz 9-9-9-24 1.5v
> 
> 6 Case fans, no optical drive, 1 HD, and maybe an ssd down the road
> 
> Evga says total power draw is 170w. The Fx6300 stock is 95 watts but have no idea if its that simple.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> 100% agree with this: pay attention to the PSU's available current per 12V Rail, and make sure there at least two 12V rails.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I exceed Evga's recommendations for the +12v rail amps and checked that when I bought the power supply, do I need a much higher rating? I also read that having multi rails is not essential and more of a gimmick.
> 
> Basically I am curious if my system will be ok and what the worst case scenario is. I really don't want to have to swap the PSU because my case is tiny and would require an almost complete tear down.
> 
> I really appreciate all the input, thanks.
Click to expand...

long story about rails

http://www.overclock.net/t/761202/single-rail-vs-multi-rail-explained/0_100

as to your psu yea you should be fine, i ran a 8350 @ 4.8 and a 7970 on a x750.


----------



## MaddMutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> long story about rails
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/761202/single-rail-vs-multi-rail-explained/0_100
> 
> as to your psu yea you should be fine, i ran a 8350 @ 4.8 and a 7970 on a x750.


A 750 watt PSU is quit different from running a 600 watt psu.

http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/13

Power Consumption Results: The EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB SC w/ ACX Cooling used just a tad more power at idle and load compared to the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 2GB reference card. This was expected as it comes overclocked from the factory and has an additional fan and all that. During gaming sessions we averaged a peak Wattage of *345 Watts*, which is well below the 550W PSU that is recommended for this card.
Read more at http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/13#M2JEiHVjs246Eb58.99

Okay.... If we take 345 watts from 552 watts, what we have left is 207 watts left to run your system. We will be conservative and say that the other parts of your computer w/o CPU is using 75 watts. This now leaves you with 132 watts to Overclock your XPU.

This is what they were able to acceded when OCing your card :

To see how much higher we could get we increased the power target to 115% and the temperature target to 94C. This is the highest possible setting for each. We then slowly increased the GPU clock offset and memory clock offset to see how far we could go before the card would become unstable. We ended up with a GPU clock offset to +130MHz and the mem clock offset to +775MHz before we started to get encounter issues like artifacts and tearing in games.

image: http://legitreviews.com/images/reviews/2240/max-oc.jpg
max-oc

Read more at http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/14#GMdAKfwoo8HPRY8l.99

Again







I apologize as the fatigue is kicking my ass this morning, from my sickness. I was diagnosed with Leukemia 2 years ago
Hopefully some one else will pick up my thoughts and finish helping you. For all I know, I could just have easy been rambling about nothing.

Thank You For Your Time
In Reading And Replying


----------



## Rob The Robot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> A 750 watt PSU is quit different from running a 600 watt psu.
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/13
> 
> Power Consumption Results: The EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB SC w/ ACX Cooling used just a tad more power at idle and load compared to the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 2GB reference card. This was expected as it comes overclocked from the factory and has an additional fan and all that. During gaming sessions we averaged a peak Wattage of *345 Watts*, which is well below the 550W PSU that is recommended for this card.
> Read more at http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/13#M2JEiHVjs246Eb58.99
> 
> Okay.... If we take 345 watts from 552 watts, what we have left is 207 watts left to run your system. We will be conservative and say that the other parts of your computer w/o CPU is using 75 watts. This now leaves you with 132 watts to Overclock your XPU.
> 
> This is what they were able to acceded when OCing your card :
> 
> To see how much higher we could get we increased the power target to 115% and the temperature target to 94C. This is the highest possible setting for each. We then slowly increased the GPU clock offset and memory clock offset to see how far we could go before the card would become unstable. We ended up with a GPU clock offset to +130MHz and the mem clock offset to +775MHz before we started to get encounter issues like artifacts and tearing in games.
> 
> image: http://legitreviews.com/images/reviews/2240/max-oc.jpg
> max-oc
> 
> Read more at http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/14#GMdAKfwoo8HPRY8l.99
> 
> Again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize as the fatigue is kicking my ass this morning, from my sickness. I was diagnosed with Leukemia 2 years ago
> Hopefully some one else will pick up my thoughts and finish helping you. For all I know, I could just have easy been rambling about nothing.
> 
> Thank You For Your Time
> In Reading And Replying


I believe they are talking about total system consumption, not the graphics consumption. I think that they are comparing which consumes more power or less power on the test rig. The test rig is an Intel chip that consumes 130w at base clock. http://ark.intel.com/products/63696/Intel-Core-i7-3960X-Processor-Extreme-Edition-15M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz

Their 345w could be attained by adding, Card 170w TDP + CPU 130w TDP = 300w. The reaming wattage could be consumed by the rest of the system.

I think I feel safe with the PSU, its been running 4.7Ghz for over a month or two now so we will see what happens. If I get a new case soon ill probably upgraded then.

Thanks for all the replies


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob The Robot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> A 750 watt PSU is quit different from running a 600 watt psu.
> 
> http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/13
> 
> Power Consumption Results: The EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB SC w/ ACX Cooling used just a tad more power at idle and load compared to the NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 2GB reference card. This was expected as it comes overclocked from the factory and has an additional fan and all that. During gaming sessions we averaged a peak Wattage of *345 Watts*, which is well below the 550W PSU that is recommended for this card.
> Read more at http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/13#M2JEiHVjs246Eb58.99
> 
> Okay.... If we take 345 watts from 552 watts, what we have left is 207 watts left to run your system. We will be conservative and say that the other parts of your computer w/o CPU is using 75 watts. This now leaves you with 132 watts to Overclock your XPU.
> 
> This is what they were able to acceded when OCing your card :
> 
> To see how much higher we could get we increased the power target to 115% and the temperature target to 94C. This is the highest possible setting for each. We then slowly increased the GPU clock offset and memory clock offset to see how far we could go before the card would become unstable. We ended up with a GPU clock offset to +130MHz and the mem clock offset to +775MHz before we started to get encounter issues like artifacts and tearing in games.
> 
> image: http://legitreviews.com/images/reviews/2240/max-oc.jpg
> max-oc
> 
> Read more at http://www.legitreviews.com/evga-geforce-gtx-760-superclocked-w-acx-cooling-video-card-review_2240/14#GMdAKfwoo8HPRY8l.99
> 
> Again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I apologize as the fatigue is kicking my ass this morning, from my sickness. I was diagnosed with Leukemia 2 years ago
> Hopefully some one else will pick up my thoughts and finish helping you. For all I know, I could just have easy been rambling about nothing.
> 
> Thank You For Your Time
> In Reading And Replying
> 
> 
> 
> I believe they are talking about total system consumption, not the graphics consumption. I think that they are comparing which consumes more power or less power on the test rig. The test rig is an Intel chip that consumes 130w at base clock. http://ark.intel.com/products/63696/Intel-Core-i7-3960X-Processor-Extreme-Edition-15M-Cache-up-to-3_90-GHz
> 
> Their 345w could be attained by adding, Card 170w TDP + CPU 130w TDP = 300w. The reaming wattage could be consumed by the rest of the system.
> 
> I think I feel safe with the PSU, its been running 4.7Ghz for over a month or two now so we will see what happens. If I get a new case soon ill probably upgraded then.
> 
> Thanks for all the replies
Click to expand...

this,

quick easy solution. put it in,

run heaven + prime,

if you trip OCP you need a higher wattage PSU


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ummm
> 
> why ?


I've found that PSU's with dual 12V rails provide more stability than those with a single 12V rail when combined with heavily overclocked CPU's and higher end graphic cards. It is also important to make sure that the available current is sufficient per rail, as well as PSU efficiency.

The main point I am making is "don't just shop for a total wattage value" when choosing a PSU. Pay attention to the underlying specifications









Edit:
Haha! Just read the post you had linked. I didn't realize that there was such a polarized "discussion" on this topic in the hobby... I switched to multi-rail PSU's when I tired of the "upgrade GPU, get BSOD's, upgrade PSU" routine. One should take the wattage requirements on the GPU boxes with a grain of salt: they are typically for the GPU at full load only, and are set low enough not to disqualify the systems of prospective buyers (who often did not build their own PC's). Similar to software minimum system requirements. When I decided to choose a "PSU to rule them all", the best options readily available "off the shelf" at the time (2007) were either dual or quad-rail. Other considerations were available 12V rail current, PSU efficiency, and a preference for modular cables. I've stuck with them for the last 5 builds, re-purposing each of the original 3 PSU's as I upgraded systems. The oldest dropped out after 5 1/2 years, having served in two separate high current systems, and it has been replaced. The 2nd oldest has been going for 7.5 years now (running an OC'ed quad core with 4 sticks of RAM, and currently with a pair of OC'ed 6850's).

As far as lump summing your available current, or separating it for it's respective components, it's up to personal preference. I prefer to have my GPU and CPU each with their own Current allocations.


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> this,
> 
> quick easy solution. put it in,
> 
> run heaven + prime,
> 
> if you trip OCP you need a higher wattage PSU


Sure beats the heck out of doing a bunch of math!







Seriously though, several sites (Asus comes to mind) have PSU calculators, and the couple I've used have always come up relatively close in suggested rating (i.e., within 50W or so of each other).

Be warned, though: the ratings are usually much higher than one might expect. My old OC FX62, with a pair of OC BFG 8800GTX'es and two sticks of Dominator DDR2 was tallying up at a suggested 1050W.


----------



## Mega Man

One of shilkas golden rules NEVER TRUST online psu calculators


----------



## Karameikos

Looking over a few of shilka's posts, I see quite a bit of solid information: alas, he started posting 4 years after I had already completed my research into the optimal PSU for my needs (I built my first "uber" rig in January 2007, after thoroughly researching various components in the latter half of 2006). Note that I am a former Electronics Technician myself, and I own a multimeter, oscilloscope, and various other pieces of TMDE.

I've been exclusively using Thermaltake Toughpower Grand (OEM Thermaltake) for 8 years now, and they have not given me a reason to change brands. Granted, there are times when I could settle for a weaker PSU in a particular configuration, but I look at it this way: the PSU and the MB are the two most critical components of a system with regards to stability, and also the two most difficult / time consuming to replace or upgrade. I prefer to have the assurance of plenty of headroom and solid build quality









Back to the original topic that led to our discussion, given the specifications that the OP has since elaborated on, my suggestion was probably "over kill" for his needs. Depending on his actual usage habits / environment, I still think he's a bit underpowered, but if it works for him, I guess that is all that matters


----------



## just wondering

Hi I have been reading this thread with great interest and i have learned a lot so far ,but I am having issues pushing my 8350 with my Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 motherboard any further than 4.4 without losing lots of cores early in the test using Prime 95 at 4.5 Ghz

HWinfo :- Shows my core clocks when it begins at 4415 but this drops during the prime 95 test to 1404 and then goes back up , the core clocks seem to go between the two speeds during the time i am testing using blend test on P95 , is this a sign of "droop" or is this normal while stress testing ?

I had a look at you guide at the start of this forum post , but one thing in my bios I do not have is
the options to set CPU LLC to for example ultra high / high etc , it is a simple option of , ON , OFF or Auto.

At cpu ratio of 22.00 (4400 MHz) Prime 95 (blend test) works fine all workers remain active for around 10 minutes and usually core 7 falls over and stops , the rest remain active and the test continues happily , but generally speaking always core 7 falls over.

Ideally I would like to go to 4600 MHz or higher with all cores active in a prime 95 test, but I do not want to push it too far etc.

Currently when I set the CPU ratio of 22.5 fairly quickly 3 of the workers (cores) will stop and show errors , the rest of the workers continue to march on and show no errors

Average temps max around 55 (using CPUID HW monitor) when testing using prime 95

Idle temps around 34

If I run OCCT the system appears to run and test fine at cpu 22.0 / 4400 MHz... it is prime 95 that shows one core failing. OCCT shows a pass at the end !

I have tested my ram using x86 memory tester that all works perfectly.

Below are the details of my settings and my system setup.

Any extra info you may require , i will be more than happy to supply.

Help and advice please TYI









Things I have switched off/disabled

( anything here I should not of switched off , or anything else I should switch off)

Amd turbo core off
Cpu spread spectrum off
EPu power saving mode off
Core c6 state off
Hpc mode off
Apm master mode off
cool and quiet off
PCIe spread spectrum set to disabled

Things I am unsure if I need to change (set to auto currently) no other options available for these settings.

Cpu load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
Cpu/nb load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)

Settings for motherboard and voltage etc (set to manual) I have these currently set to :-

Cpu ratio 22 (sets chip to 4400mhz)
Cpu bus frequency 200
Pcie frequency auto (PCIe spread spectrum set to disable , are either of these settings having any neg effect on my Graphics card when I over clock the card? if so what should I change to ?)

Memory 1866 MHz (8-8-8-24)
Cpu / MB frequency set to 2200 ( max of up to 3200)
HT Link speed set to 2400 (max setting 2400)

Cpu manual voltage 1.45 volts ( i have tried as high as 1.47)
Cpu/nb manual voltage 1.25 (i have tried as high as 1.27)

Cpu VDDA voltage 2.5 (i have tried as high as 2.6)

Dram voltage 1.5 volt (auto)
Nb voltage 1.1 (auto)
NB HT voltage 1.2 set to (auto)
NB 1.8 Voltage 1.8 set to (auto)
SB Voltage set to 1.1 (auto)

system specs

XFX pro 750w psu
Asus M5A97 LE r2.0 (latest bios) MB
16 GB ballistix Ram 1866mhz
8350 Amd CPU
280x graphics
EVO212 HS and fan (fitted a few days ago )
Cooler master case
EVO 840 SSD 240
Crucial 550 512 SSD
2 x regular HD's Sata
1 x Blu Ray


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Hi I have been reading this thread with great interest and i have learned a lot so far ,but I am having issues pushing my 8350 with my Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 motherboard any further than 4.4 without losing lots of cores early in the test using Prime 95 at 4.5 Ghz
> 
> ....
> 
> Cpu load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
> Cpu/nb load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
> 
> ...
> 
> Cpu manual voltage 1.45 volts ( i have tried as high as 1.47)
> Cpu/nb manual voltage 1.25 (i have tried as high as 1.27)
> 
> Cpu VDDA voltage 2.5 (i have tried as high as 2.6)
> 
> Dram voltage 1.5 volt (auto)
> Nb voltage 1.1 (auto)
> NB HT voltage 1.2 set to (auto)
> NB 1.8 Voltage 1.8 set to (auto)
> SB Voltage set to 1.1 (auto)
> 
> y


Hi,
I don't know the board you are using. So try to find out exactly what the LLC does by experimenting. Try the setting auto and on and check how much you V- core drops under full load.
If it still drops a lot under load you need to compensate this by upping the voltage, yeah it will be a tad high in idle. But cause of the drop it will be on spot on load.
Mine ran fine at 4,6 Ghz with 1,39375 volts, but that was with LLC at UH so it would not drop, ( if i use extreme it will boost vcore instead of drop)
Conclusion: find out how big of a drop your board gives you!









Another thing, you can definitely go a little higher on the cpu/nb voltage. When i went for 5 ghz it was around 1,325 volts. (IF YOU HAVE DECENT COOLING, higher volts here wil give more stability but will also raise your cpu temps.)

*EDIT*: a Third thing, you can compensate drop a litte extra by upping *VDDA voltage* from 2,5 to 2,52

EDIT2: If these raises in voltage don't work try switching to multi only OC, or the other way arround lower multi with higher bus speed. I remember my 8150 was very very picky with some multi's especially 'half ones' (for example: 20,5; 21,5; 22,5)


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> Hi,
> I don't know the board you are using. So try to find out exactly what the LLC does by experimenting. Try the setting auto and on and check how much you V- core drops under full load.
> If it still drops a lot under load you need to compensate this by upping the voltage, yeah it will be a tad high in idle. But cause of the drop it will be on spot on load.
> Mine ran fine at 4,6 Ghz with 1,39375 volts, but that was with LLC at UH so it would not drop, ( if i use extreme it will boost vcore instead of drop)
> Conclusion: find out how big of a drop your board gives you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another thing, you can definitely go a little higher on the cpu/nb voltage. When i went for 5 ghz it was around 1,325 volts. (IF YOU HAVE DECENT COOLING, higher volts here wil give more stability but will also raise your cpu temps.)
> 
> *EDIT*: a Third thing, you can compensate drop a litte extra by upping *VDDA voltage* from 2,5 to 2,52
> 
> EDIT2: If these raises in voltage don't work try switching to multi only OC, or the other way arround lower multi with higher bus speed. I remember my 8150 was very very picky with some multi's especially 'half ones' (for example: 20,5; 21,5; 22,5)


Thank you for your reply , i have now observed that when the cores drop to 1.4 ghz then also the Vcore has dropped to 0.972 , when cores are at full speed then vcore is a 1.44

I shall try now with LLC set to ON as opposed to auto and give a test , then also try with on and up the CPU/NB voltage first to 1.30 then up a bit more to see if it helps with the Vcore droop.

out of interest which board are you using ?

I 'm heading into the bios !!!!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Hi I have been reading this thread with great interest and i have learned a lot so far ,but I am having issues pushing my 8350 with my Asus M5A97 LE R2.0 motherboard any further than 4.4 without losing lots of cores early in the test using Prime 95 at 4.5 Ghz
> 
> HWinfo :- Shows my core clocks when it begins at 4415 but this drops during the prime 95 test to 1404 and then goes back up , the core clocks seem to go between the two speeds during the time i am testing using blend test on P95 , is this a sign of "droop" or is this normal while stress testing ?
> 
> I had a look at you guide at the start of this forum post , but one thing in my bios I do not have is
> the options to set CPU LLC to for example ultra high / high etc , it is a simple option of , ON , OFF or Auto.
> 
> At cpu ratio of 22.00 (4400 MHz) Prime 95 (blend test) works fine all workers remain active for around 10 minutes and usually core 7 falls over and stops , the rest remain active and the test continues happily , but generally speaking always core 7 falls over.
> 
> Ideally I would like to go to 4600 MHz or higher with all cores active in a prime 95 test, but I do not want to push it too far etc.
> 
> Currently when I set the CPU ratio of 22.5 fairly quickly 3 of the workers (cores) will stop and show errors , the rest of the workers continue to march on and show no errors
> 
> Average temps max around 55 (using CPUID HW monitor) when testing using prime 95
> 
> Idle temps around 34
> 
> If I run OCCT the system appears to run and test fine at cpu 22.0 / 4400 MHz... it is prime 95 that shows one core failing. OCCT shows a pass at the end !
> 
> I have tested my ram using x86 memory tester that all works perfectly.
> 
> Below are the details of my settings and my system setup.
> 
> Any extra info you may require , i will be more than happy to supply.
> 
> Help and advice please TYI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Things I have switched off/disabled
> 
> ( anything here I should not of switched off , or anything else I should switch off)
> 
> Amd turbo core off
> Cpu spread spectrum off
> EPu power saving mode off
> Core c6 state off
> Hpc mode off
> Apm master mode off
> cool and quiet off
> PCIe spread spectrum set to disabled
> 
> Things I am unsure if I need to change (set to auto currently) no other options available for these settings.
> 
> Cpu load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
> Cpu/nb load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
> 
> Settings for motherboard and voltage etc (set to manual) I have these currently set to :-
> 
> Cpu ratio 22 (sets chip to 4400mhz)
> Cpu bus frequency 200
> Pcie frequency auto (PCIe spread spectrum set to disable , are either of these settings having any neg effect on my Graphics card when I over clock the card? if so what should I change to ?)
> 
> Memory 1866 MHz (8-8-8-24)
> Cpu / MB frequency set to 2200 ( max of up to 3200)
> HT Link speed set to 2400 (max setting 2400)
> 
> Cpu manual voltage 1.45 volts ( i have tried as high as 1.47)
> Cpu/nb manual voltage 1.25 (i have tried as high as 1.27)
> 
> Cpu VDDA voltage 2.5 (i have tried as high as 2.6)
> 
> Dram voltage 1.5 volt (auto)
> Nb voltage 1.1 (auto)
> NB HT voltage 1.2 set to (auto)
> NB 1.8 Voltage 1.8 set to (auto)
> SB Voltage set to 1.1 (auto)
> 
> system specs
> 
> XFX pro 750w psu
> Asus M5A97 LE r2.0 (latest bios) MB
> 16 GB ballistix Ram 1866mhz
> 8350 Amd CPU
> 280x graphics
> EVO212 HS and fan (fitted a few days ago )
> Cooler master case
> EVO 840 SSD 240
> Crucial 550 512 SSD
> 2 x regular HD's Sata
> 1 x Blu Ray


you Are using a 212. You won't get much past 4.4.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> you Are using a 212. You won't get much past 4.4.


Indeed i am , any ideas on why the cores drop to 1.4 and the vcore drops ?


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> Hi,
> I don't know the board you are using. So try to find out exactly what the LLC does by experimenting. Try the setting auto and on and check how much you V- core drops under full load.
> If it still drops a lot under load you need to compensate this by upping the voltage, yeah it will be a tad high in idle. But cause of the drop it will be on spot on load.
> Mine ran fine at 4,6 Ghz with 1,39375 volts, but that was with LLC at UH so it would not drop, ( if i use extreme it will boost vcore instead of drop)
> Conclusion: find out how big of a drop your board gives you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another thing, you can definitely go a little higher on the cpu/nb voltage. When i went for 5 ghz it was around 1,325 volts. (IF YOU HAVE DECENT COOLING, higher volts here wil give more stability but will also raise your cpu temps.)
> 
> *EDIT*: a Third thing, you can compensate drop a litte extra by upping *VDDA voltage* from 2,5 to 2,52
> 
> EDIT2: If these raises in voltage don't work try switching to multi only OC, or the other way arround lower multi with higher bus speed. I remember my 8150 was very very picky with some multi's especially 'half ones' (for example: 20,5; 21,5; 22,5)


Thank you for the edit info also :-

i have tried with :- cpu line load set to "enabled" this made the system crash once the prime 95 test had stressed the system enough to show a vcore drop to 0.97 from 1.4 so i have set back to its original setting of Auto and the system is working fine as in not crashing , but still showing Vcore and core droop.

here is a update to my current settings as i have changed some volts :-

Cpu manual voltage 1.45 volts ( i have tried as high as 1.47)
Cpu/nb manual voltage ***** changed to 1.35

Cpu VDDA voltage ******* changed to 2.55

Dram voltage 1.5 volt (auto)
Nb voltage 1.1 (auto)
NB HT voltage 1.2 set to (auto)
NB 1.8 Voltage 1.8 set to (auto)
SB Voltage set to 1.1 (auto)

Just a quick daft question which i am always pondering , based on the attached picture , which is the actual CPU temp i should be quoting when talking about CPU temp

Do i quote based on HWinfo :- CPU {#0} amd fx CPU 0 temp
or do i quote the CPU temp from under the ITE IT8721F CPU TEMP ???

The image below also shows my system after running prime95 for around 30 minutes

.


----------



## just wondering

One thing i have not tried , but a bit concerned to try as having :- Cpu load line calibration set to enable , causing my system to crash when been stressed by prime 95 , is it worth trying it with "Disabled" or is that a bad idea !!


----------



## just wondering

hmmmmm well i thought i shall do a test , set the clock speed the 8350 stand speed of 4ghz and i my vcore is still drooping along with the core clock speeds !!! testing with Prime 95 !!

I guess that is not ment to happen ?!?


----------



## Johan45

Have you turned off Cool & Quiet in the BIOS and set windows to performance mode?


----------



## StryckNyne

IMO you need to disable ALL powersaving options in the bios, and even in your OS if you have them enabled, with them disabled your multiplier shouldn't swing from 22 to 7. Then see about raising your Vcore up for stability. The 8350 should be able to do 4.4ghz easy on stock volts, mine does anyhow.


----------



## Hits9Nine

M5A97 LE R2.0 ? It's going to be a long hard experience for you to overclock this motherboard with an FX8350, you will most likely damage your hardware before you get stable clocks. 8350 needs 8+2 for a good OC IMO


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> M5A97 LE R2.0 ? It's going to be a long hard experience for you to overclock this motherboard with an FX8350, you will most likely damage your hardware before you get stable clocks. 8350 needs 8+2 for a good OC IMO


Yes an 8 phas board is best if you're going to push it but the board they have with that cooler should take them to 4.4 without any real issue. I have the M5A 99FX pro at home which is similar and it handle 4.64 with better cooling.


----------



## Hits9Nine

But the M5A97 LE R2.0 is only a 4+2 with no vrm cooler and 4pin cpu power, as to your M5A 99FX pro 6+2 vrm cooler with 8pin cpu power


----------



## just wondering

Hi, Thank you all for your replies , Yes i think i have it set to performance mode :- control panel / power options / select a power plan / set to high performance mode..

my current settings :-

Things I have switched off/disabled

( anything here I should not of switched off , or anything else I should switch off)

Amd turbo core off
Cpu spread spectrum off
EPu power saving mode off
Core c6 state off
Hpc mode off
Apm master mode off
cool and quiet off
PCIe spread spectrum set to disabled

Things I am unsure if I need to change (set to auto currently) no other options available for these settings.

Cpu load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
Cpu/nb load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)

Settings for motherboard and voltage etc (set to manual) I have these currently set to :-

Cpu ratio 22 (sets chip to 4400mhz)
Cpu bus frequency 200
Pcie frequency auto (PCIe spread spectrum set to disable , are either of these settings having any neg effect on my Graphics card when I over clock the card? if so what should I change to ?)

Memory 1866 MHz (8-8-8-24)
Cpu / MB frequency set to 2200 ( max of up to 3200)
HT Link speed set to 2400 (max setting 2400)

Cpu manual voltage 1.45 volts ( i have tried as high as 1.47)
Cpu/nb manual voltage 1.25 (i have tried as high as 1.27)

Cpu VDDA voltage 2.5 (i have tried as high as 2.6)

Dram voltage 1.5 volt (auto)
Nb voltage 1.1 (auto)
NB HT voltage 1.2 set to (auto)
NB 1.8 Voltage 1.8 set to (auto)
SB Voltage set to 1.1 (auto)

system specs

XFX pro 750w psu
Asus M5A97 LE r2.0 (latest bios) MB
16 GB ballistix Ram 1866mhz
8350 Amd CPU
280x graphics
EVO212 HS and fan (fitted a few days ago )
Cooler master case
EVO 840 SSD 240
Crucial 550 512 SSD
2 x regular HD's Sata
1 x Blu Ray


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Yes an 8 phas board is best if you're going to push it but the board they have with that cooler should take them to 4.4 without any real issue. I have the M5A 99FX pro at home which is similar and it handle 4.64 with better cooling.


I am getting 4.4 ghz but its the vcore droop that seems to be causing me issues , when using prime 95 test , i watch using HWinfo and i can see when the temp rises to around 54 , the vcore droops and the core clocks drop to 1.4 for a few seconds.

I am considering a new motherboard though....

Low budget though , but ideally want 8+2 and 2 fast graphic card slots so i can crossfire or sli in the future... sabertooth looks good , but kind of out of my price range....I would be happy to spend around 70 - 80 Uk pounds ..


----------



## Hits9Nine

Vdroop is common without using LLC, you will have to offset the Vdroop with increased voltage, but this may cause a lot of problems with that board.

You could always puck up a used 890FX am3 board for cheap


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> Vdroop is common without using LLC, you will have to offset the Vdroop with increased voltage, but this may cause a lot of problems with that board.
> 
> You could always puck up a used 890FX am3 board for cheap


I do have these two options for LLC

Cpu load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
Cpu/nb load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)

If i set Cpu load line calibration to ON then when i do my stress test it locks up , so i set it back to auto.
I have left the CPU/NB setting at auto.

Which voltage should i increase and what to ?


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> Vdroop is common without using LLC, you will have to offset the Vdroop with increased voltage, but this may cause a lot of problems with that board.
> 
> You could always puck up a used 890FX am3 board for cheap


I am considering a new motherboard , with 8+2 but also need two fast graphic card slots for crossfire , or maybe SLI , but currently using a AMD 280x


----------



## Hits9Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> I do have these two options for LLC
> 
> Cpu load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
> Cpu/nb load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
> 
> If i set Cpu load line calibration to ON then when i do my stress test it locks up , so i set it back to auto.
> I have left the CPU/NB setting at auto.
> 
> Which voltage should i increase and what to ?


With enabling the LLC on that board you most likely started to see throttling as the VRM started to heat up to much. I would not recommend increasing the voltage at all at this point.

side note- when you were doing your oc you were disabling turbo right?


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> With enabling the LLC on that board you most likely started to see throttling as the VRM started to heat up to much. I would not recommend increasing the voltage at all at this point.
> 
> side note- when you were doing your oc you were disabling turbo right?


Based on my current settings (please see below ) anything you would reccomend trying ?

Also i am open to the idea of a new motherboard recommendation , my budget would be around £80.00 , i can buy a saber 990 r2 brand new for 120 , but i am kind of thinking thats a bit much really .

Things I have switched off/disabled

( anything here I should not of switched off , or anything else I should switch off)

Amd turbo core off
Cpu spread spectrum off
EPu power saving mode off
Core c6 state off
Hpc mode off
Apm master mode off
cool and quiet off
PCIe spread spectrum set to disabled

Things I am unsure if I need to change (set to auto currently) no other options available for these settings.

Cpu load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)
Cpu/nb load line calibration Auto (option on, off, auto)

Settings for motherboard and voltage etc (set to manual) I have these currently set to :-

Cpu ratio 22 (sets chip to 4400mhz)
Cpu bus frequency 200
Pcie frequency auto (PCIe spread spectrum set to disable , are either of these settings having any neg effect on my Graphics card when I over clock the card? if so what should I change to ?)

Memory 1866 MHz (8-8-8-24)
Cpu / MB frequency set to 2200 ( max of up to 3200)
HT Link speed set to 2400 (max setting 2400)

Cpu manual voltage 1.45 volts ( i have tried as high as 1.47)
Cpu/nb manual voltage 1.25 (i have tried as high as 1.27)

Cpu VDDA voltage 2.5 (i have tried as high as 2.6)

Dram voltage 1.5 volt (auto)
Nb voltage 1.1 (auto)
NB HT voltage 1.2 set to (auto)
NB 1.8 Voltage 1.8 set to (auto)
SB Voltage set to 1.1 (auto)

system specs

XFX pro 750w psu
Asus M5A97 LE r2.0 (latest bios) MB
16 GB ballistix Ram 1866mhz
8350 Amd CPU
280x graphics
EVO212 HS and fan (fitted a few days ago )
Cooler master case
EVO 840 SSD 240
Crucial 550 512 SSD
2 x regular HD's Sata
1 x Blu Ray


----------



## just wondering

If i bought a ASUS Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 Review and used my current fan set up a EVO 212 , what kind of overclock would i get ?!?


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> But the M5A97 LE R2.0 is only a 4+2 with no vrm cooler and 4pin cpu power, as to your M5A 99FX pro 6+2 vrm cooler with 8pin cpu power


Yep you're right. There are so many of the M5A 97 boards it gets confusing at times keeping then straight. the non le has 6 and the evo has 8. My bad


----------



## Hits9Nine

Honestly I would not overclock with this motherboard, I would let the Turbo do its thing as any "stable" increase would not have any real impact.

Take a look at these motherboards

Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0
Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0
Gigabyte 990fxa-ud5
ASRock 990fx killer
ASRock 990FX Extreme6


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> Honestly I would not overclock with this motherboard, I would let the Turbo do its thing as any "stable" increase would not have any real impact.
> 
> Take a look at these motherboards
> 
> Asus M5A99FX PRO R2.0
> Asus M5A99X EVO R2.0
> Gigabyte 990fxa-ud5
> ASRock 990fx killer
> ASRock 990FX Extreme6


Fair enough , so set it back to stock and turn turbo back , i shall check out a new motherboard.

so basically because my board is 4+2 , that is why my system is showing signs of "Droop" on my system .

As a cheap alternative , what about this board :- Gigabyte GA-970A-UD3P i think its the one down from the Gigabyte 990fxa-ud5

I can pick one up for under 69.99 , it has 8+2 but sadly not two fast GPU PCI-E slots , but i might be able to live with that in the short term , on Fleabay my board normally sells for around 35 after all the fees , so chuck in another 35 pounds and maybe that will do the trick....

Just spent 74.00 on a new fractual define r5 case , so might try and save a few pounds !


----------



## Hits9Nine

It looks good but I would not pair an 970 chipsets with FX83## cpu's


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> It looks good but I would not pair an 970 chipsets with FX83## cpu's


With the CPU , it seems as if as soon as my board hits 54oC then the droop kicks in.

I am thinking maybe go for a sabre fx990 r2 board , i can pick one up for 120.00 delivered , based on my issues a 8+2 phase help sort out my issues with overclocking ?


----------



## just wondering

Which test do most people use when running prime 95 ?

I have it set to blend test , should i be using say small FFT's test instead?


----------



## Hits9Nine

I use blended with prime95 then IBT 30runs on max after. You will need a mobo with excellent VRM cooling and a very good cpu cooler too.
SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 will do just fine with an H100i cpu cooler


----------



## just wondering

Okay , Now this may sound pretty stupid to only mention now........BUT i mentioned i had just spent £74.00 on a new case a fractal define r5 , it arrives tomorrow....main reason been my old coolermaster case with the EVO 212 fitted , i have not been able to have my side panel on my case properly , a fair bit of a gap , due to the size of the evo 212

With the airflow been a bit off at the moment (to say the least) , would be perhaps causing my CPU to hit 54 and then for the droop to kick in and send my cores down in speed to 1.4 instead of 4.4 ?!?


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hits9Nine*
> 
> I use blended with prime95 then IBT 30runs on max after. You will need a mobo with excellent VRM cooling and a very good cpu cooler too.
> SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0 will do just fine with an H100i cpu cooler


I might have to hold off on the new cooler as well as a new motherboard....but that can come later i guess.

Is the h105 better than the h100i , they both seem to be similar prices in general.


----------



## DigDeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Okay , Now this may sound pretty stupid to only mention now........BUT i mentioned i had just spent £74.00 on a new case a fractal define r5 , it arrives tomorrow....main reason been my old coolermaster case with the EVO 212 fitted , i have not been able to have my side panel on my case properly , a fair bit of a gap , due to the size of the evo 212
> 
> With the airflow been a bit off at the moment (to say the least) , would be perhaps causing my CPU to hit 54 and then for the droop to kick in and send my cores down in speed to 1.4 instead of 4.4 ?!?


Did you enable HPC mode(high performance computing) in Bios, if you didnt, then thats why your cores throttle down to 1.4ghz.

You can achive the same result if you disable APM mode.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> Did you enable HPC mode(high performance computing) in Bios, if you didnt, then thats why your cores throttle down to 1.4ghz.
> 
> You can achive the same result if you disable APM mode.


Hi thank you for your reply, i have enabled HPC mode and i believe i have APM disabled .

Everytime it hits 54 degrees it throttles...

!!!


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Thank you for your reply , i have now observed that when the cores drop to 1.4 ghz then also the Vcore has dropped to 0.972 , when cores are at full speed then vcore is a 1.44
> 
> I shall try now with LLC set to ON as opposed to auto and give a test , then also try with on and up the CPU/NB voltage first to 1.30 then up a bit more to see if it helps with the Vcore droop.
> 
> out of interest which board are you using ?
> 
> I 'm heading into the bios !!!!


The drop to 0.9** @ 1.4 ghz is normal it is a power savings feature.

You need to observe the drop you get at full core load, when running prime.

I'm using Asus Sabetertooth 990 FX rev. 1. And i Like it a lot.
Like megaman suggests you changes are high you need a other board if you really want to go high..

For now, try mounting a fan on the VRM section, it will give a nice drop on the core of about 6°C. That should help out with the throttling to.

EDIT: While you wait for you new board to arrive you can try to start back from scratch, maybe it is possible to get is stable at lower volts.
If you want high CPU clock you can sacrifce CPU/NB, especialy because your ram is just at 1866 you can run the cpu/nb at 2000 mhz @ 1.2 volts (maybe even lower volts)
Tis wil drop you temps. Reading your board is just 4+2 you will need a lot of thinkering to even reach 4,6 if even possible...
Being able to use decent LLC and using good cooler. (for me fine tuning the saberkitty and using custom WC loop. I was able to use other numbers.

_Stock CPU FAN_
*Mhz Vcore Temp*
4100 *1,3* 56
4300 *1,36875* 68
4500 *1,44375* TO HOT!!









_Now with decent finetuning of LLC ect. & WC_
*Mhz Vcore Temp*
4100 *1,23125* to low to note down








4300 *didn't note* to low to note down








4500 *1,35* 40,5

As you can see with stock cooling and no LLC, I was also running ridiculous high volts at first. I started over with first undervolting and then going back up from there.
I could run 8 core's at 3600 with only 1.15 volts and 4200 with the 1.3 stock volts.

*In short:* it is quite possible that with a new motherboard and good cooling you will reach easy 4,8 maybe even 5.

Here have some of the raw data

AMDfx8150.xlsx 20k .xlsx file

Mind that i dind't fill everything in and i forgot to complete it when i went for 5.1 Ghz. I did that on paper cause of al the BSOD in the process









Here I made a prediction for undervolting in the graph and tested a few speeds.

AMDfx8150undervolt.xlsx 20k .xlsx file

I love my excel file because it just show the AMD FX could have been a lot more power efficient...

Disclaimer: not every chip is the same so don't go mindless copy pasta on the data









Final edit: With good cooling i mean some high end WC or custom build loop. So you need to ask yourself if that is really worth it for going those extra 200mhz..
You can try with the new board and 212, to dial in a CnQ - turbo - set-up. That are my summer and office settings. (than it goes from 1600 mhz @ 0.912 to 4500(8core) and 4830Mhz (turbo) @ 1,44. It was a b*itch to dial in but once its set its nice to have it save some power and heat when just reading or working.)


----------



## just wondering

Thank you all for the great information and help....

"The drop to 0.9** @ 1.4 ghz is normal it is a power savings feature." how do i turn this off ? or is it standard and to be expected ?!!?

with people mentioning that the drop back to 1.4 core is a power saving feature setting , i would like to nail down and find that , i have turned off APM and i have enabled HPC mode.

My windows 7 64bit is set to performance mode , the only thing i can see that i have option left to change is setting the processor power mangement system cooling policy from active to passive....currently set to active ....

Before i buy a new board , as i would be quite happy with a overclock of 4.4 with no power features kicking in...

Other things i have on my system , is AMD overdrive , i have run this in the past , but have it disabled

Plus i have not installed any Asus software , i tend to assume this kind of thing will be mostly bloat ware......

PLEASE help me figure out what is making a power saving feature kick in , when i have disable so many things.

Windows is in performance mode.
Amd turbo core off
Cpu spread spectrum off
EPu power saving mode off
Core c6 state off
Hpc mode ON
Apm master mode off
cool and quiet off
PCIe spread spectrum set to disabled

its driving me bonkers...as i am guessing regardlessly of the 4+2 phase , something else is making it drop to 1.4 , basically a setting some where.


----------



## Blue Dragon

could be PSU overheating, but doubtful... try taking board out of case. I had two problems with my old MSI GD80 board. first was a memory problem because my MB was screwed down a hair too tight and the second caused my core temp sensor to false read 255 which would cause throttling until a reboot.


----------



## just wondering

Hi , i have a pretty solid PSU a 750 watt xfx , i am only running a 280x, 2 ssd's ,2 standard hds and a Blu ray...

But when it comes to taking out the motherboard , that will be happening in the next few days as my new Fractual Define r5 case is hopefully arriving today at around 2pm.

But i would love to nail down which power saving feature is causing the drop to 1.4 core , as per my previous post i have changed all the things i think it could be.....

Other than passive and active cooling in performance mode settings .

but i have not installed asus software for the motherboard , as i always assume things like that are pretty much bloat ware and AMD overdrive options which i did try a long time ago and turned off........

If the power saving feature is part of windows , a new motherboard is kind of unlikely to help my feeble needs of a 4.4 ghz 8350 with out power saving features









by the looks of things , my overclock works , it is the power saving feature that is my demon!!

Stuck...


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stufi*
> 
> Managed to make 4.6GHz stable with ~1.46v. It's a significant increase compared to 4.5GHz which is stable at 1.418v. It's probably wise to stop here as the volts needed for +100MHz is getting ridiculous.
> 
> Hm, not sure if i should stay here or revert to 4.5, the voltage increase is ridiculous. I could try to tweak it a little, might work with one step lower vcore, also dropping LLC would drop the max vcore a bit, yes? Anyway, now that I have found stable values for both 4.5 and 4.6GHz, I can enable some of the power saving settings in bios? Which ones can I enable and can they cause instability? Also, I dont remember if this CPU underclocked itself automatically in idle at stock settings? If so, is it possible to enable this power saving feature too while being overclocked?


Don't know if someone answered you yet. Was cleaning out my mails and saw your post in it.

Seeing your temps i would revert back to 4.5. You are only 1°C off the real safe margin of 61°C core temp. So increase cooling or settle for 4.5,. If really want tot stay at 4.6 keep track of your temps under normal/gaming load. If okay, then you are probably good for 24/7 safe








Try optimizing volts a litte more tough to gain a little more thermal margin, good luck.


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Hi , i have a pretty solid PSU a 750 watt xfx , i am only running a 280x, 2 ssd's ,2 standard hds and a Blu ray...
> 
> But when it comes to taking out the motherboard , that will be happening in the next few days as my new Fractual Define r5 case is hopefully arriving today at around 2pm.
> 
> But i would love to nail down which power saving feature is causing the drop to 1.4 core , as per my previous post i have changed all the things i think it could be.....
> 
> Other than passive and active cooling in performance mode settings .
> 
> but i have not installed asus software for the motherboard , as i always assume things like that are pretty much bloat ware and AMD overdrive options which i did try a long time ago and turned off........
> 
> If the power saving feature is part of windows , a new motherboard is kind of unlikely to help my feeble needs of a 4.4 ghz 8350 with out power saving features
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by the looks of things , my overclock works , it is the power saving feature that is my demon!!
> 
> Stuck...


Not sure but i think C6 state is making it drop to 1.4ghz

Like allready said you can overcome this by disabling C6 states, enable HPC and in windows select in power option 'high performance' Normaly it should maintain max speed with those settings

EDIT: just saw your post higher up.
Mm settings look right. Probably thermal throttling, increase cooling to test
In your case and looking at your pic probably trhottling from the VRM section. Or it's just saying bonkers i cant delivers that amount of amps you crazy







.

If you have a spare fan set it op to blow air about there


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> Not sure but i think C6 state is making it drop to 1.4ghz
> 
> Like allready said you can overcome this by disabling C6 states, enable HPC and in windows select in power option 'high performance' Normaly it should maintain max speed with those settings
> 
> EDIT: just saw your post higher up.
> Mm settings look right. Probably thermal throttling, increase cooling to test.


It always kicks in at 54 degrees , quickly cools down etc then hits back to full speed .

But is there a way to turn off thermal throttling ? or change the setting.

I do have a new case coming today a good one a Fractal Define r5 , currently my old case is not able to have its side on due to the size of the evo 212 heat sink...

Edit :- would a previous play in the past with AMD overdrive of left some settings on my system , i am sure i have turned them all off , but is that possible ?


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> Not sure but i think C6 state is making it drop to 1.4ghz
> 
> Like allready said you can overcome this by disabling C6 states, enable HPC and in windows select in power option 'high performance' Normaly it should maintain max speed with those settings
> 
> EDIT: just saw your post higher up.
> Mm settings look right. Probably thermal throttling, increase cooling to test
> In your case and looking at your pic probably trhottling from the VRM section. Or it's just saying bonkers i cant delivers that amount of amps you crazy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> If you have a spare fan set it op to blow air about there


Thank you for your reply..

I tired the option of no ATI overdrive / GPU program loading at start up , That did not help.

But the issue is Even at Stock speeds with Turbo turned off running at a mere 4ghz with no overclock , all volts set to auto , Thermal throttling still kicks in !?!!?

But at least my new case arrives today....i guess the air flow in my system with the side panel slighty off , is going to cause me issues .....

GGGGGGRRRRRRRR


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Thank you all for the great information and help....
> 
> "The drop to 0.9** @ 1.4 ghz is normal it is a power savings feature." how do i turn this off ? or is it standard and to be expected ?!!?
> 
> with people mentioning that the drop back to 1.4 core is a power saving feature setting , i would like to nail down and find that , i have turned off APM and i have enabled HPC mode.
> 
> My windows 7 64bit is set to performance mode , the only thing i can see that i have option left to change is setting the processor power mangement system cooling policy from active to passive....currently set to active ....
> 
> Before i buy a new board , as i would be quite happy with a overclock of 4.4 with no power features kicking in...
> 
> Other things i have on my system , is AMD overdrive , i have run this in the past , but have it disabled
> 
> Plus i have not installed any Asus software , i tend to assume this kind of thing will be mostly bloat ware......
> 
> PLEASE help me figure out what is making a power saving feature kick in , when i have disable so many things.
> 
> Windows is in performance mode.
> Amd turbo core off
> Cpu spread spectrum off
> EPu power saving mode off
> Core c6 state off
> Hpc mode ON
> Apm master mode off
> cool and quiet off
> PCIe spread spectrum set to disabled
> 
> its driving me bonkers...as i am guessing regardlessly of the 4+2 phase , something else is making it drop to 1.4 , basically a setting some where.


CnQ drops the multi to7x, it's quite normal but if you don't like it turn it off in bios and disable APM. And please don't run P95, especially on your board. The LE is only 4+1 phase and P95 is extremely stressful. Handbrake or POVRAy, HyperPI, Cinebench, Fry renderer are all viable alternatives to Prime....


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pill Monster*
> 
> CnQ drops the multi to7x, it's quite normal but if you don't like it turn it off in bios and disable APM. And please don't run P95, especially on your board. The LE is only 4+1 phase and P95 is extremely stressful. Handbrake or POVRAy, HyperPI, Cinebench, Fry renderer are all viable alternatives to Prime....


Hi , Thank you for your reply...I have APM turned off , CnQ turned off , performance mode in windows set to on , HPC mode enabled...still the issue persists.


----------



## DigDeep

is your bios version BIOS 2301 2014/03/27?

http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M5A97_LE_R20/HelpDesk_Download/

did you try to undervolt your cpu? I have mine fx 8320 on 1.272V, that will lower temperatures

or if you have a place for a fan on your right side panel, wich will blow cool air onto motherboard, that will also help to redice temperatures

you can try aida64 or AMD overdrive test


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> is your bios version BIOS 2301 2014/03/27?
> 
> http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/M5A97_LE_R20/HelpDesk_Download/
> 
> did you try to undervolt your cpu? I have mine fx 8320 on 1.272V, that will lower temperatures
> 
> or if you have a place for a fan on your right side panel, wich will blow cool air onto motherboard, that will also help to redice temperatures
> 
> you can try aida64 or AMD overdrive test


Hi , Thank you for your reply , My bios version is slightly newer 2501 , i see your running 2301 , any reason for the older bios ?

My Temps only reach 54 degrees before it begins to throttle , which i think is pretty low based on what i have read etc.

But i do have a new case arriving today in the next hour or so , a Fractal define r5 , i have bought a extra fan for the case also.


----------



## DigDeep

My mistake i meant 2501 version

Your cpu is probably throttling because of VRM protection. Its must be very hot. You will need a heatsink or fan on it.

dont know if your motherboard has a temp sensor for VRM, but you can try to see if it has it, with hwinfo program, wich is best monitoring tool outhere.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> My mistake i meant 2501 version
> 
> Your cpu is probably throttling because of VRM protection. Its must be very hot. You will need a heatsink or fan on it.
> 
> dont know if your motherboard has a temp sensor for VRM, but you can try to see if it has it, with hwinfo program, wich is best monitoring tool outhere.


One thing though if it is the VRM causing the issue , i have tested at stock speed 4gh with all voltages set to auto not off set or manual , with Turbo turned off , so basically 4ghz with no turbo and it still throttles at 54 degrees.

My new case has arrived , i will not get a chance to work on that until next tuesday.

It is puzzling me why it would throttle even at its lowest settings.


----------



## Hits9Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> One thing though if it is the VRM causing the issue , i have tested at stock speed 4gh with all voltages set to auto not off set or manual , with Turbo turned off , so basically 4ghz with no turbo and it still throttles at 54 degrees.
> 
> My new case has arrived , i will not get a chance to work on that until next tuesday.
> 
> It is puzzling me why it would throttle even at its lowest settings.


Its because IMO that board is designed for a 95w CPU.
What you could do is enable 1 core per compute unit in the bios and see if the throttling is still happening


----------



## DigDeep

because 4+1 power phase is not good enough for 8 core processor. + you dont have a heatsink on VRMs like evo mobos have










you can buy copper heatsink for mosfets, and it will hopefully help you with your throttling

check this

http://www.overclock.net/t/1202751/amd-fx-cpu-throttling-fixes-please-sticky/70#post_21427918

and as I already said, you can undervolt cpu, for 4ghz you need only 1.272v(or maybe even lower), that will lower power consumption, heat, and thus help you with thottling


----------



## just wondering

Thank you for your replies , i shall test with one core and see what happens and i am thinking of buying a new motherboard , so if my new case with much better airflow , does not help , then i'd say time for a new motherboard , sell this one on Fleabay , my two motherboard options are both a bit chalk and cheese , but one is like 50 pounds cheaper than the other and i am not sure i will be other clocking beyond 4.5.

My two choices would be :-

Gigabyte 970A-UD3P rev 4.0 , i can pick one brand new delivered for just a tad over £62.00 , it is 8+2 but single full speed PCI-Express 16x

or the other end of the spectrum would be

Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 at £120 delivered , which of course is a well known board for over clocking and great features....

If i bought the Asus sabertooth that would end up in me spending more money for say a corsair 105 cooler , which is ment to fit very nicely into a Fractal r5 define case.

But on the other hand the Gigabyte is more than likely enough to suit my needs and i can sell my old Asus and recoup around 35.00 from Fleabay...making the Gigabyte a cheap / sideways but better 8+2 phase board.

Dilema !!! but i shall fit my current setup into my new case first see how it all plays out









Cheers for all the great help and excellent replies , i feel much more educated now


----------



## Hits9Nine

H105 and the Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0.


----------



## DigDeep

I have ud3p, and its very good board.

If you want a high overclock, you need to put a fan on to VRM heatsink or on to right side panel of your case. that will cool down cpu socket and vrm section, and temperatures will drop down quite a bit.

That is not necessary but highly recommended thing to do.

I would take UD3P and put other 60 bucks into something else.


----------



## Pill Monster

It's not turbo that does it, it's CnQ.
Look under CPU settings in the advanced menu. it's normal to downclock when there is little/no load. But if it throttles when under a stress test u may need to update bios and also enable HPC ( in CPU menu). LE isn't really suitable for overclocking an FX.

2 great options imho are either the rock solid 990FX or else M5A97 EVO which is single GPU and 6+2 digi vrm, and cheaper.


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Thank you for your replies , i shall test with one core and see what happens and i am thinking of buying a new motherboard , so if my new case with much better airflow , does not help , then i'd say time for a new motherboard , sell this one on Fleabay , my two motherboard options are both a bit chalk and cheese , but one is like 50 pounds cheaper than the other and i am not sure i will be other clocking beyond 4.5.
> 
> My two choices would be :-
> 
> Gigabyte 970A-UD3P rev 4.0 , i can pick one brand new delivered for just a tad over £62.00 , it is 8+2 but single full speed PCI-Express 16x
> 
> or the other end of the spectrum would be
> 
> Asus Sabertooth 990FX R2.0 at £120 delivered , which of course is a well known board for over clocking and great features....
> 
> If i bought the Asus sabertooth that would end up in me spending more money for say a corsair 105 cooler , which is ment to fit very nicely into a Fractal r5 define case.
> 
> But on the other hand the Gigabyte is more than likely enough to suit my needs and i can sell my old Asus and recoup around 35.00 from Fleabay...making the Gigabyte a cheap / sideways but better 8+2 phase board.
> 
> Dilema !!! but i shall fit my current setup into my new case first see how it all plays out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers for all the great help and excellent replies , i feel much more educated now


If your going to buy a new board, please buy the 990FX and not again a 970 chipset. The saberkitty will also be SLI-ready








And i have the feeling you want to clock high, you need a rather high end motherboard for that.

Like other mentioned, cool the VRM. Even with the new motherboard, the heatsink makes it easy to mount some fan in there.
Testing is knowing. I did the VRM cooling test for you guys a while back.

The red line is when i put on my VRM fan (it was the stock CPU fan at low rpm..
Temps drop about 10 degrees; and you can see the CPU temps drops with it. Win win!









For the love of god, cool them VRM's


----------



## miklkit

That motherboard doesn't have any VRM heatsink at all?

FYI this is what VRM throttling looks like. It was a Gigabyte UD3 rev3 with an aftermarket heat pipe heat sink on the VRMs and good air flow. The VRMs were still so hot the case behind them was too hot to touch.


----------



## Pill Monster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> That motherboard doesn't have any VRM heatsink at all?
> 
> FYI this is what VRM throttling looks like. It was a Gigabyte UD3 rev3 with an aftermarket heat pipe heat sink on the VRMs and good air flow. The VRMs were still so hot the case behind them was too hot to touch.


Probably a moot point now but fwiw you have APM enabled in that OCCT test.

The "Powers" value in HWMontor is TDP for APM.
Can't remember how exactly it's worked out .....an average across 4 cores or something, documented in the BKDG whitepaper.....


----------



## miklkit

Ya, that was in June 2013 and all I did was bump up the multi and then bumped up the vcore +0.025v or whatever one click was on that board. Oh, I turned off 6 or 7 things in the bios because the experts said to. I knew pretty much nothing then and don't know much more now.


----------



## just wondering

Okay , I thought i should offer up a update !!

I have fitted my new case to my system and i am glad to say , that Throttling is no longer happening , when stress testing with prime95.

Clearly it was due in part to very poor air flow , My new case the Fractal define r5 and a added extra fan really has made all the difference.

BUT i am in the process of buying a AMD Sabretooth motherboard FX990 , I shall fit and test , then i am thinking of going for a water cooler , i am a bit budget minded in general , so i was thinking of the Revision 2 of the 120v Seidon , the revision 2 was released in Novemeber 2014 and is ment to offer lower noise due to a new pump and better fan, i can purchase this for £33.00 delivered to replace me EVO 212 Air cooler ...... i cannot quite justify 80 - 100 for a 240 sized water cooler... AM i MAD ?!!? or will the Seidon 120v Revision 2 a good choice , accoridng to http://www.frostytech.com/top5_liquid_heatsinks.cfm it is in the top 10 of liquid coolers









Thank you all for your patience and knowledge , it has been most helpful.

One thing when i over clock i use the multiplier , eg. set it to 22 x , would i gain any benefits form setting the multiplier to 20 and using the front side bus to up the clock speed , of course keeping a eye on ram speeds etc going up to ?


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Okay , I thought i should offer up a update !!
> 
> I have fitted my new case to my system and i am glad to say , that Throttling is no longer happening , when stress testing with prime95.
> 
> Clearly it was due in part to very poor air flow , My new case the Fractal define r5 and a added extra fan really has made all the difference.
> 
> BUT i am in the process of buying a AMD Sabretooth motherboard FX990 , I shall fit and test , then i am thinking of going for a water cooler , i am a bit budget minded in general , so i was thinking of the Revision 2 of the 120v Seidon , the revision 2 was released in Novemeber 2014 and is ment to offer lower noise due to a new pump and better fan, i can purchase this for £33.00 delivered to replace me EVO 212 Air cooler ...... i cannot quite justify 80 - 100 for a 240 sized water cooler... AM i MAD ?!!? or will the Seidon 120v Revision 2 a good choice , accoridng to http://www.frostytech.com/top5_liquid_heatsinks.cfm it is in the top 10 of liquid coolers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you all for your patience and knowledge , it has been most helpful.
> 
> One thing when i over clock i use the multiplier , eg. set it to 22 x , would i gain any benefits form setting the multiplier to 20 and using the front side bus to up the clock speed , of course keeping a eye on ram speeds etc going up to ?


Regarding the cooler, it depends on how far you want to push your processor, and how much space you have available: the CM Nepton 140XL performs consistently 5C cooler across 125W/150W/200W than the CM Seidon 120V (according to the same charts you've linked). That 5C will matter if you are chasing OC results comparable to what others have achieved.

Some find that OC with the FSB feels a bit more responsive in use than OC with the multiplier. I've noticed this difference myself when using a very high multiplier: 20 x 245 felt smoother than 25 x 200 on my 9590's.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Regarding the cooler, it depends on how far you want to push your processor, and how much space you have available: the CM Nepton 140XL performs consistently 5C cooler across 125W/150W/200W than the CM Seidon 120V (according to the same charts you've linked). That 5C will matter if you are chasing OC results comparable to what others have achieved.
> 
> Some find that OC with the FSB feels a bit more responsive in use than OC with the multiplier. I've noticed this difference myself when using a very high multiplier: 20 x 245 felt smoother than 25 x 200 on my 9590's.


Brilliant , i will give it ago with a FSB overclock , i must admit after reading up about the Siedon , i did do some research on the Nepton 140xl , looks to be excellent value , i can pick one up delivered for around £55.00 so that might be my next purchase , once my Sabretooth has arrived and i have it all fitted , maybe have a little play around to see how high i get my 8350 on air first , then i can appreciate the benefits of what a good water cooler can offer


----------



## Johan45

In my opinion if you're going to try the AIO coolers at least get something that will give some decent cooling. Most of the 120 AIO won't do much better than a decent air cooler. Check out prices for the Swiftech 220x . I would say that a 2x120 rad is a minimum if you really want to OC.


----------



## Mega Man

Agreed


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> In my opinion if you're going to try the AIO coolers at least get something that will give some decent cooling. Most of the 120 AIO won't do much better than a decent air cooler. Check out prices for the Swiftech 220x . I would say that a 2x120 rad is a minimum if you really want to OC.


This guy knows!

Don't know much about AIO solutions. I got myself an EK supremacy and 360 rad, D5 pump. And that's not even overkill for a 8150 @ 5.1Ghz








So what ever you do stay away from small and cheap 120 AIO solutions.

If you can afford the EK 360 kit (around € 220)
or another example, you can go with H110 (around € 120) --> probably best buy in your situation.
(100 for 4 degrees is a lot but it could mean an extra 100mhz, AND with the EK kit you can in the futre integrate your GPU in the loop)

Take a look here: http://www.madshrimps.be/articles/article/1000437/EK-Waterblock-L-360-Kit-Review/4
There are quite a few AIO solutions on that charts in the review.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> In my opinion if you're going to try the AIO coolers at least get something that will give some decent cooling. Most of the 120 AIO won't do much better than a decent air cooler. Check out prices for the Swiftech 220x . I would say that a 2x120 rad is a minimum if you really want to OC.


Based on Frosty techs site and other review sites , 140xl really does hold its old against much bigger rads.

http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2778&page=4


----------



## Mega Man

you take a crappy pump ( coolit or asetek ) and a crappy rad, = crappy results

if they had a real pump and block and a good rad you would have much better, if all you want is a 140 aio go get it, but either the swiftech 220x/240x or 140x would crush any other aio of similar/ in some cases smaller size


----------



## soccerballtux

here to report my Asus A5M97-R2.0 consistently locks up after the BIOS throttles the CPU to protect the 4-phase VRMs from getting too hot. The throttle down is OK, but the return to full speed ISN'T.

If I had to guess it's something to do with LLC. I had trouble first with CnQ, so I disabled that and was able to achieve stable OC. I'm not sure what to do for a stable return from throttle. I guess I could disable LLC and just do higher voltage but...meh. I guess if that lets me use CnQ it might be worth it for the energy savings.

4.3ghz and 1.3v FX-8310.

also, for even barely stable operation at 4.5ghz, needed 1.3v in BIOS and LLC'd up to 1.4v. I'll stay at the sweet spot of 1.3v!


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> here to report my Asus A5M97-R2.0 consistently locks up after the BIOS throttles the CPU to protect the 4-phase VRMs from getting too hot. The throttle down is OK, but the return to full speed ISN'T.
> 
> If I had to guess it's something to do with LLC. I had trouble first with CnQ, so I disabled that and was able to achieve stable OC. I'm not sure what to do for a stable return from throttle. I guess I could disable LLC and just do higher voltage but...meh. I guess if that lets me use CnQ it might be worth it for the energy savings.
> 
> 4.3ghz and 1.3v FX-8310.
> 
> also, for even barely stable operation at 4.5ghz, needed 1.3v in BIOS and LLC'd up to 1.4v. I'll stay at the sweet spot of 1.3v!


I had a similar problem , it turned out to be airflow been the main issue , as i was just about to fit a new case , due to needing to keep the side panel off on my old case , as i had bought a evo 212 heat sink and fan and it was too big for my case.

previously to the new case , using prime 95 and my amd 8350 oc to 4.4 , the system would heat up fairly quickly then throttle , then heat up , then throttle .

but since the new case , things have improved a lot , it takes a lot longer now before it even reaches throttling temps

so make sure you have good airflow and cooling in your case , my current board has 4+1 also , it is a asus m5 a97-le Rr2.0.

but i have taken the advice from the people on this forum and i have a ASUS sabretooth coming and a Nepton 140XL on there way to me.....


----------



## ltpdttcdft

nevermind


----------



## just wondering

Okay , good news , my new Sabertooth 990fx mb is fitted and working , i have also installed my 140xl Nepton (nice bit of kit !!)

Any way i have been happily overclocking my motherboard with using offset , FSB and some clock multiplying....

My computer will happily pass tests at 4.8 .with no signs of droop or workers stopping.

But anyway , i was reading the first page of this most helpful thread and i kinda spotted this :-

"FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds"

So i thought hmmmm yes , looks good , how hard can it been , considering using normal overclocking methods my cpu is handling the load , best of both worlds sounds great to me.

Anyway...thats when i ran into issues....

Basically i set my setting to a similar setting ( i kept my FSB a bit lower just in case due to Turbo mode upping the speed)

When i turn the system on and it first boots up , all looks well , all cores seem to be where they should be......but as soon as i start prime 95 in either Small FFT's or Blend test , My cores go down in speed and so does the voltage ! i presume that is some kind of droop..?!?! i thought to myself surely it should be the other way round perhaps , with lower voltage when not stress testing with say 4.5 ish clocks and it jumping upto say 4.7ish once the test begun..

Below is a couple of pictures and some of my settings ( that are not as detailed in the "FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds" recommended settings , i followed what was detailed in the pictures and text )

Please can you tell me where i am going wrong....

settings (these are the settings i have been using for a regular overclock , please let me know if any of these are way out in general for all kinds of overclocking etc.)

cpu load line cal - ultra

cpu/nb llc -auto

cpu current 130%

cpu/nb current 130 %

cpu phase control - manual
manual adj - fast

cpu voltage freq - auto

vrm spread spec - disabled

cpu power duty control - tprobe

cpu powe response ctrl - auto

cpu power thermal control 130

dram current cap - 100%

dram voltage freq - 300

dram phase control - optomised

With test running , is this some kind of droop.


Test stopped by me , same kind of figures reported when i first boot up .


TIA


----------



## Mega Man

They will boost at lite load and if they can thermally.

The people who wrote Fsb and turbo. Well can't have a proper oc.


----------



## just wondering

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They will boost at lite load and if they can thermally.
> 
> The people who wrote Fsb and turbo. Well can't have a proper oc.


So basically would you say that the method for turbo enabled is not a good option and does not work ?!


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> So basically would you say that the method for turbo enabled is not a good option and does not work ?!


I understood that this method is intended for you to keep your 8350 set to it's stock multiplier of 20 (or lower), while only OC the bus speed from 200 to whatever you find as stable for all 8 cores. Leaving Turbo enabled would then give you a boost of 1 or 2 steps of the multiplier (i.e., 20.5 or 21). So as an example, if you had 245 x 20 for 4.9GHz, you could hit a turbo of 5.02GHZ or 5.15GHz depending on load. It appears that The Guide is using an extreme example: a lower than stock multiplier with a much higher base clock (like 265 x 17 for 4.5GHz, with a max turbo of 265 x 21 for 5.56 GHz).

My understanding is that if you manually set your multiplier higher than stock, then enabling turbo would have the effect you are describing (i.e., the multiplier would drop to the default turbo levels). Also keep in mind that max turbo will only boost a few cores (just 2 IIRC).

I am not positive in this though, as while I have read through this option in The Guide, I have never tried it out. Actually, I have never even played with Turbo: it's been disabled from day one


----------



## MaddMutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> So basically would you say that the method for turbo enabled is not a good option and does not work ?!


I'd turn off the turbo. I have a Sabertooth R2.0 with a FX-8370, so far the combo has been sweet. I have custom water cooling and have hit 5368GHz with a FSB of 261.9.
BUT on that same note!!!!!!!!
I had my FIRST Asus Sabertooth R2.0 with a FX-8350. While Overclocking, (only got to 5087) I fried a VRM/Mosfet chip under the heat sink. I had it for about 3 months ( Asus States it has a 5 year warranty) and sent it to ASUS for repair. They contacted me and stated " The motherboard is non repairable, please send us $150 for a replacement motherboard & $10 for Shipping and Handling. I told them NO, and fix my motherboard per the 5 yr warranty. The reply back from ASUS stated " AS PER OUR WARRANTY CONTRACT, LINE ___ STATES THAT ANY PHYSICAL DAMAGE ie BURNT COMPONENTS, VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY.
So Asus sent me back my broken motherboard but kept the VRM/NB heat sink from when they took it off.

Just a word of warning, go easy on the kitty until you have it broke in.


----------



## MaddMutt

I for got to add that it also fried my FX-8350. Luckily I was able to submit it to AMD and received a NIB FX-8350. Not knowing if AMD would replace the CPU or not, when I bought my second kitty, I bought a FX-8370.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> They will boost at lite load and if they can thermally.
> 
> The people who wrote Fsb and turbo. Well can't have a proper oc.
> 
> 
> 
> So basically would you say that the method for turbo enabled is not a good option and does not work ?!
Click to expand...

it works for what it is designed for
turbo is based on thermals and loads, you can either have 4 cores @ 4.1 or 1 at 4.2 ( iirc i have not cared about turbo for years, and i am going off the top of my head )

so in single core you have a higher boost ( at stock )

same is true when you "oc" turbo, personally i would rather just oc to 4.8 + and screw turbo anything

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> So basically would you say that the method for turbo enabled is not a good option and does not work ?!
> 
> 
> 
> I understood that this method is intended for you to keep your 8350 set to it's stock multiplier of 20 (or lower), while only OC the bus speed from 200 to whatever you find as stable for all 8 cores. Leaving Turbo enabled would then give you a boost of 1 or 2 steps of the multiplier (i.e., 20.5 or 21). So as an example, if you had 245 x 20 for 4.9GHz, you could hit a turbo of 5.02GHZ or 5.15GHz depending on load. It appears that The Guide is using an extreme example: a lower than stock multiplier with a much higher base clock (like 265 x 17 for 4.5GHz, with a max turbo of 265 x 21 for 5.56 GHz).
> 
> My understanding is that if you manually set your multiplier higher than stock, then enabling turbo would have the effect you are describing (i.e., the multiplier would drop to the default turbo levels). Also keep in mind that max turbo will only boost a few cores (just 2 IIRC).
> 
> I am not positive in this though, as while I have read through this option in The Guide, I have never tried it out. Actually, I have never even played with Turbo: it's been disabled from day one
Click to expand...

this is not true, many mobos let you change the turbo value

which means you turbo to w.e. you set it to still a poor way to OC
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> So basically would you say that the method for turbo enabled is not a good option and does not work ?!
> 
> 
> 
> I'd turn off the turbo. I have a Sabertooth R2.0 with a FX-8370, so far the combo has been sweet. I have custom water cooling and have hit 5368GHz with a FSB of 261.9.
> BUT on that same note!!!!!!!!
> I had my FIRST Asus Sabertooth R2.0 with a FX-8350. While Overclocking, (only got to 5087) I fried a VRM/Mosfet chip under the heat sink. I had it for about 3 months ( Asus States it has a 5 year warranty) and sent it to ASUS for repair. They contacted me and stated " The motherboard is non repairable, please send us $150 for a replacement motherboard & $10 for Shipping and Handling. I told them NO, and fix my motherboard per the 5 yr warranty. The reply back from ASUS stated " AS PER OUR WARRANTY CONTRACT, LINE ___ STATES THAT ANY PHYSICAL DAMAGE ie BURNT COMPONENTS, VOIDS YOUR WARRANTY.
> So Asus sent me back my broken motherboard but kept the VRM/NB heat sink from when they took it off.
> 
> Just a word of warning, go easy on the kitty until you have it broke in.
Click to expand...

i smell something fishy here and that is not being told
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> I for got to add that it also fried my FX-8350. Luckily I was able to submit it to AMD and received a NIB FX-8350. Not knowing if AMD would replace the CPU or not, when I bought my second kitty, I bought a FX-8370.


which is warranty fraud as when you oced your chip you violated your cpu warranty thus voiding it


----------



## MaddMutt

From Mega MAN QUITE" Which is warranty fraud as when you oced your chip you violated your cpu warranty thus voiding it"QUITE
The Sabertooth and the CH V are designed to overclock. Look at the Intel side....... Every motherboard manufacturer has a motherboard model just for overclocking.

Gigabyte - GA-X99-SOC Force (rev. 1.0)
ASUS - RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION
MSI - X99S XPOWER AC THE OVERCLOCKING CHAMPION
Asrock - X99 OC Formula

Thank You For Your Time


----------



## umeng2002

I'm sure there is a gentleman's agreement between CPU and mobo manufacturers with consumers OC'ing and RMA'ing chips.

Why would anyone spend $200+ on a mobo if they don't overclock? So AMD, Intel, and mobo manufactures have an incentive to let those people return fried parts.

What the warranty is really for is X company buying 5,000 CPUs, overclocking them all, 10% break, and they want refunds on 500 CPU ran out of spec.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaddMutt*
> 
> From Mega MAN QUITE" Which is warranty fraud as when you oced your chip _*you violated your cpu warranty thus voiding*_ it"QUITE
> The Sabertooth and the CH V are designed to overclock. Look at the Intel side....... Every motherboard manufacturer has a motherboard model just for overclocking.
> 
> Gigabyte - GA-X99-SOC Force (rev. 1.0)
> ASUS - RAMPAGE IV BLACK EDITION
> MSI - X99S XPOWER AC THE OVERCLOCKING CHAMPION
> Asrock - X99 OC Formula
> 
> Thank You For Your Time


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> I'm sure there is a gentleman's agreement between CPU and mobo manufacturers with consumers OC'ing and RMA'ing chips.
> 
> Why would anyone spend $200+ on a mobo if they don't overclock? So AMD, Intel, and mobo manufactures have an incentive to let those people return fried parts.
> 
> What the warranty is really for is X company buying 5,000 CPUs, overclocking them all, 10% break, and they want refunds on 500 CPU ran out of spec.


ok, i stated warranty fraud on the CPU NOT THE MOBO

and it is, read your warranty agreement ( they do not post the little white paper that comes with the cpu in the box that i can find, on line )

however here is this from amd

http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf page 18 in bold



as i said warranty fraud
@umeng2002

there is no "agreement" as the agreement is wrote out on the paper when you buy it
to add, no " gentlemans " agreement would ever stand up in court, as again the agreement ( guarantee ) is in ink
@MaddMutt did you tell them the chip died by OVERCLOCKING ?


----------



## umeng2002

A gentleman's agreement in this case would be an OC'er RMA'ing his CPU after frying it. AMD has a good suspicion that it was OC'ed. They may even be able to prove it, but they still give them a new CPU because they want to keep enthusiasts happy.

A gentleman agreement is the exact opposite of a written contract.


----------



## MaddMutt

From Mega Man " @MaddMutt did you tell them the chip died by OVERCLOCKING ?
Edited by Mega Man - Today at 2:02 pm "

When I filled out the RMA for AMD so I could send it in, I stated that the CPU fried when the motherboard's VRM went up in smoke. I also asked Asus Customer Service Representative (CSR) Who would be responsible for replacing my fried CPU. I was told by the CSR that Asus only deals with motherboards not CPU's. He directed me to AMD for problems with the fried CPU.


----------



## Mega Man

So yep warranty fraud


----------



## Globber

Hey guys. I am running an FX8350 with 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport 1866Mhz. I am running an ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 motherboard on 1300 watts and a couple GTX 780's in SLI. A few weeks ago I was playing a few games with my CPU at 4600Mhz on 1.39v and my memory OC'd to 2100Mhz. My GPU's were lightly overclocked1202 Mhz on 1.16v. All of a sudden my screens went black. Then I got the message that my computer recovered from an unexpected crash. I rebooted. Everything powered up fine and seemed to work well, checked voltages in BIOS and everything seemed normal. So I went to log into Civilizations V, got logged in and just before I could do anything I noticed some LED changes in my PC, I looked over and 3 of the voltage LEDs on my top GPU went out and then my screens went black again. So At first I thought I was overclocked too high. I went in and reset all of my GPU specs to default, then shutdown, switched my GPUs to my LN1 BIOS and rebooted. I went into BIOS on my mobo and reset all to default as well. Then went to launch Civ V again and the same thing happened. This was on an old 1000w PSU, so I thought my PSU was failing and grabbed a new one. I had also removed my 2nd GPU until I figured out the problem. After the new PSU went in, everything seemed ok running defaults on a single GPU. I decided that since it was running smooth and I had my new 1300w PSU, I would put my 2nd GPU back in and get it going(all still at default settings). Then 2 weeks ago I was running another game and all of a sudden my game froze, my hardware monitor and GPUz froze up and then all of my programs stopped launching when executed. So I attempted to shut down and got stuck hanging. Had to hard power down. When I powered up my boot drive was not detected anymore, nor were 2 of my other 6 hard drives. Could not get them to show up at all. So I removed the 2nd card again thinking that maybe there were issues with my PCI lanes. Booted back in and my OS drive was detected again and everything powered up, but VERY VERY slow and sluggish. I ran DSKCHK and mem tests, as well as all hardware tests and found no issues. So I rebooted and still same issues with sluggishness, thinking my drive data was corrupted I ran a clean Win7 install and everything seemed to work fine. I reconnected my drives one at a time so I could remap them one by one and everything was working fine. And out of nowhere it happened again. Instead of reinstalling, I tried disconnecting all drives except my OS and then everything was fine, shut down reconnected 2 of my important drives and everything is running just fine, until I try to attach my other HDDs again. Then other drives start to disappear and not be detected in BIOS or by my OS. So now I am back to running the system bare bones with just my 3 drives and everything stock. Does anyone have any suggestions? Sorry for the long explanation.

My instinct tells me that my SATA/USB controller on my mobo is fried and that's why it won't keep my drives organized. Does anyone have an idea what might be wrong? And if it is most likely my motherboard, what would be my best motherboard option for the FX8350? Since the AMD boards are fairly inexpensive I am not worried as much about the $ tag, just want to make sure I can get the best board possible for my build. I was either thinking about the Crosshair V Formula-Z or the Asrock 990FX Extreme9. Not opposed to the Sabertooth 990FX or the MSI 990FXGD80 V2, it just seems like the first two options have more power and features I like.

Also, since the FX chips and 990FX chipsets only support 1866 Mem speed on dual and 1600 on quad channel, what would be the way to clock memory if I were to get a set of 2400Mhz memory to run with my FX8350? Do I just go in and manually set the memory to 2400Mhz? Or do I need to set it to 1866, then adjust the timing and overclock up from there?

Anyway,
Thanks Overclockers!
Happy clocking!


----------



## Mega Man

umm mostly sounds driver issues

but have you replaced the bios batt


----------



## Globber

Have not replaced the batt. Drivers are all updated and fully installed, clean installed. I went to ASUS and had the latest BIOS version flashed and also updated and installed all drivers fresh. If the driver is failing, then why are my drives showing up and not showing up?


----------



## LostParticle

Hello









Feels nice to recall all this - while waiting for my CPU replacement.

Take care, thank you











Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Hits9Nine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ok, i stated warranty fraud on the CPU NOT THE MOBO
> 
> and it is, read your warranty agreement ( they do not post the little white paper that comes with the cpu in the box that i can find, on line )
> 
> however here is this from amd
> 
> http://sites.amd.com/us/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf page 18 in bold
> 
> 
> 
> as i said warranty fraud
> @umeng2002
> 
> there is no "agreement" as the agreement is wrote out on the paper when you buy it
> to add, no " gentlemans " agreement would ever stand up in court, as again the agreement ( guarantee ) is in ink
> @MaddMutt did you tell them the chip died by OVERCLOCKING ?


Here is my 2 cents on this topic




I am not reading into anything but....


----------



## umeng2002

They market them as good overclockers. They want you to overclock them so you want to buy them. They put not covering OC damage in their warranty since they want their cake and eat it too.

If you RMA it, THEY decide if they want to replace it or not. The OC violating the warranty is simply them RESERVING THE RIGHT to replace or not.

Trying to have it replaced isn't fraud - it's more like a negotiation.

At some point they determined it's just cheaper to RMA a fried chip than use advanced detective work to tell if it's damaged from OC'ing.

As I pointed out in the other thread. The end user has very little tools against large companies that mislead consumers. Feeling bad for AMD RMA'ing a fried chip is silly.


----------



## MorbidlyAMD

[soap box]Why is it necessary for this argument to span 2 threads when it is only very loosely related to either? You are burying posts that legitimately belong here. People could be asking for actual help and it gets buried 2 pages deep behind this epeeing contest. There is no winning an argument on the internet, please take it into a private message or start a thread about whether or not it is right to rma a chip you fried.[/soap box]


----------



## Globber

Yes, like the issues I am having with my FX8350. Which is what I thought this thread was designated exactly for. Not for warranty issues. Take those discussions to the warranty thread. If you are overclocking your PC you should already know the risks you take in overclocking.

Now back to my question from previously. The initial post was #3247 on pg. 325. Those issues were just compounded as I am now getting messages that my USB controller is missing the driver, but when I go to ASUS and download the driver and attempt to install, it says that the driver is already installed and will not install. Now the driver .exe file will not launch, even as admin. Doesn't show any process when launched in my task manager either.

ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 is having issues. My experience with ASUS is I am better off getting a different mobo than trying for RMA. I am talking stability, performance and power. I have a 1300 watt PSU so I have no concerns on a board that uses a lot of power. What is THE BEST HANDS DOWN MOBO for the FX8350??


----------



## Globber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbidlyAMD*
> 
> [soap box]Why is it necessary for this argument to span 2 threads when it is only very loosely related to either? You are burying posts that legitimately belong here. People could be asking for actual help and it gets buried 2 pages deep behind this epeeing contest. There is no winning an argument on the internet, please take it into a private message or start a thread about whether or not it is right to rma a chip you fried.[/soap box]


Exactly!!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Globber*
> 
> ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 is having issues. My experience with ASUS is I am better off getting a different mobo than trying for RMA. I am talking stability, performance and power. I have a 1300 watt PSU so I have no concerns on a board that uses a lot of power. What is THE BEST HANDS DOWN MOBO for the FX8350??


Best board for a 8350 is either the Saborkitty rev2 or the CHV-Z the latter being my first choice.









And all this talk about ASUS RMA being a PITA just wasn't so for me when I RMA'd my first CHV-Z (bought day of release). Went exactly as it should with no issues, just saying.

You may want to look this over as it'll make it much easier for those trying to help you if we know what all your system contains. http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig


----------



## MorbidlyAMD

Globber, Your description sounds a lot like what they used to call cascade failures, where one thing goes and it is like a house of cards falling down after. I am not a doctor, but your board sounds hosed.

I can give you no personal experience with the other boards, I picked this M5A99FX PRO R2 based on being able to 2x crossfire at x16 and $$. I couldn't justify 200$ on a 5 year old design with 2016 coming up waiting to see what AMD does next.

What I can tell you is I read a lot of reviews before settling on M5A99FX, and if money wasn't an option I would have gone with the ROG first, Sabertooth second, and now that the OC bug has bit me this hard, I am really wishing I had gone Sabertooth or the ROG Crosshair V, they are really built for it. If you want to go custom loop or just upgrade cooling, you are more apt to find solutions for these top of the line boards than lesser offerings.

I would say buy the better board, but still try to RMA this one it if it is under warranty, and you didn't void it. You could make use it for a steam box or htpc or some other fun project.

Question for The Sandman, do you think owning the ROG maybe put you in a premier customer support tier? Just wondering, other companies to similar things.


----------



## Globber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbidlyAMD*
> 
> Globber, Your description sounds a lot like what they used to call cascade failures, where one thing goes and it is like a house of cards falling down after. I am not a doctor, but your board sounds hosed.
> 
> I can give you no personal experience with the other boards, I picked this M5A99FX PRO R2 based on being able to 2x crossfire at x16 and $$. I couldn't justify 200$ on a 5 year old design with 2016 coming up waiting to see what AMD does next.
> 
> What I can tell you is I read a lot of reviews before settling on M5A99FX, and if money wasn't an option I would have gone with the ROG first, Sabertooth second, and now that the OC bug has bit me this hard, I am really wishing I had gone Sabertooth or the ROG Crosshair V, they are really built for it. If you want to go custom loop or just upgrade cooling, you are more apt to find solutions for these top of the line boards than lesser offerings.
> 
> I would say buy the better board, but still try to RMA this one it if it is under warranty, and you didn't void it. You could make use it for a steam box or htpc or some other fun project.
> 
> Question for The Sandman, do you think owning the ROG maybe put you in a premier customer support tier? Just wondering, other companies to similar things.


Sorry for language, was frustrated at the time. I have had this issue since day one, well pretty shortly after getting the board. Even after flashing to the current BIOS. The board is about 19 months old so I don't know if they'll RMA it anyway. I do have another one of these boards that works perfectly with an FX 6350. I tried installing drivers from that board's disk but it didn't help any of the issues. All my other hardware works great, GPU's and all. Is the Asrock Extreme9 a worthwhile look? My first thought is to go with the CH V F-Z, as you recommend. I do realize that the newer models should be starting to be introduced later this year, I just don't feel like my 8-core processor is near obsolete yet. This makes me at least want to get a quality motherboard for it so I can save for a newer generation build for next year. I don't want immediately brand new tech, I want it to be out for a few months and let them work out kinks first.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbidlyAMD*
> 
> Question for The Sandman, do you think owning the ROG maybe put you in a premier customer support tier? Just wondering, other companies to similar things.


I can't say for sure, perhaps. It wouldn't be any surprise.
I will share the fact I also had to RMA a M4A785M (a $68.00 mobo) a few years back and had the same experience. So for whatever it's worth I just felt it necessary to share my personal experience with ASUS RMA's.

Now if you want to talk about customer support by phone, that's a completely different animal. They can be real.... I'll just say for me it's always less than desirable








They could use a good lesson from GSkill who is always most willing and helpful with whatever I've inquired about.

Let's get back to OCing okay, this stuff is boring.
Good luck and have fun guys!


----------



## MorbidlyAMD

Has anyone upgraded RAM and had it completely blow an OC profile? Is it usual to have to start over at step 1 with new RAM?


----------



## Mega Man

@ globber it sounds as to me to be ebkac
@morbidlyamd did you raise cpu/nb.

did you raise ram voltage ( also when doing this you need to raise it higher IE ram rated @ 1.65 you need 1.675ish to compensate for vdrop )


----------



## MorbidlyAMD

Thanks Mega Man I will try it tonight!


----------



## Globber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbidlyAMD*
> 
> Has anyone upgraded RAM and had it completely blow an OC profile? Is it usual to have to start over at step 1 with new RAM?


I would start over if it is new ram, CPU or PSU. But that is just my preference. If your new RAM has different timing or voltage specs then I can see where you would start having issues.


----------



## Globber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @ globber it sounds as to me to be ebkac


If ebkac then where would I be creating an error? Especially since my other 2 of these boards are running fine in smaller rigs. This is how I know all of my other hardware runs fine, able to test it on the other M5A99FX boards.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Globber*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *MorbidlyAMD*
> 
> Has anyone upgraded RAM and had it completely blow an OC profile? Is it usual to have to start over at step 1 with new RAM?
> 
> 
> 
> I would start over if it is new ram, CPU or PSU. But that is just my preference. If your new RAM has different timing or voltage specs then I can see where you would start having issues.
Click to expand...

??

if you oc properly

( CPU mghz first, then ram ) {- simplified }

then why ?

you know it is a ram thing.

which means one of 2 things,

IMC ( cpu/nb will need volt increase due to more sticks of ram/higher density and higher speed )
NB ( may need minor volt increase )
ram voltage


----------



## ViciousChad

I have the same CPU and motherboard. I couldn't even get it stable at 4.3 GHz







I think the problem is the motherboard. Think ASrock 990fx Killer would be better?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

what are the settings and how are you clocking it.. post bios screen shots and setting cooling and everything else..


----------



## ViciousChad

The radiator is kind of blocking the VRMs of my motherboard btw.

My BIOS overclock is set to 21.5 multiplier DOCP


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ViciousChad*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The radiator is kind of blocking the VRMs of my motherboard btw.
> 
> My BIOS overclock is set to 21.5 multiplier DOCP


Stop using DOCP and you might have better luck. Just set your ram etc. manually


----------



## ViciousChad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Stop using DOCP and you might have better luck. Just set your ram etc. manually


I tried using manual but nothing changed


----------



## Johan45

What do you have for ram, how much and speed. I noticed you have the CPU_NB voltage on auto and it may not be giving enough.


----------



## MorbidlyAMD

Try something like this over the vrm heatsink


----------



## ViciousChad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> What do you have for ram, how much and speed. I noticed you have the CPU_NB voltage on auto and it may not be giving enough.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbidlyAMD*
> 
> 
> Try something like this over the vrm heatsink


So should I mount my radiator on top instead? I won't be able to do a push-pull configuration when on top
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> What do you have for ram, how much and speed. I noticed you have the CPU_NB voltage on auto and it may not be giving enough.


I just purchased the ASRock Fatality Killer instead, ill upload a pic in a sec


----------



## The Sandman

ViciousChad, please fill this out so we all have a better idea of what you have http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig


----------



## MorbidlyAMD

Quote:


> So should I mount my radiator on top instead? I won't be able to do a push-pull configuration when on top


You could always put the pull fan on the outside of the case with a grill over it, to free up some room inside.


----------



## MorbidlyAMD

Also, update on my memory issue:



I found under tools in UEFI, it gives the SPD info, a JEDEC and a XMP. I find it weird that UEFI can show me the XMP profiles but it will not load it, must be a licensing thing. I also noticed that even though ASUS documentation says it loads the SPD by default, my system settings were definitely not doing that, I was getting CAS 11 timings, and that isn't in any of the profiles.

When I looked at the SPD it gave me the familiar abbreviations, tRAS, tRC ect, but in the DRAM timing settings, they were spelled out, and I couldn't find a pattern to decode it, and didn't feel like looking each one up, so I used DOCP, selected the only timing profile available, which was listed as 1600, but was actually 1333, reset the bios, it carried over the timings, loaded my saved profile, and then manually copied the timings on the left side into the right, and bumped it to 1600Mhz, and voila back to stable.



10 passes of IBT stable anyway, it spiked to 73c for a fraction of a second, but flirts around 68c on what CPUID HWMonitor reports as CPU (socket I am pretty sure) and 59c on the Package, so it looks like unless I do a back of socket fan I am done at 4.6Ghz.

http://valid.x86.fr/w746mp


----------



## Johan45

That's a good clock for that board, you won't get much more from it. I have the same board .


----------



## ViciousChad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MorbidlyAMD*
> 
> You could always put the pull fan on the outside of the case with a grill over it, to free up some room inside.


I just returned my motherboard and purchased the ASRock Fatal1ty Killer 990fx and I now can overclock to 4.6GHz


----------



## Agonist

I just snagged me up a ASRock 970 Extreme 4 motherboard, FX 8120, and 8GB of Patriot VIper DDr3 1600 and GTX 650ti 1gb.(Will replace with a GTX 660 2gb) soon.

Eventually Ill put a AIO on it. It has the stock cooler with heatpipes but with a modded PWM 90MM fan on it. That alone dropped the load teams almost 12c.

Right now it stocks clocks cause I am waiting on the new psu arrive. And still am learing these new UEFI bios. Last AMD chip I overclocked is the Athlon X4 640 in my gfs sons pc.

Its gonna be used for nvidia game stream and steam game streaming, movie streaming, and a backup server.

Gonna be reading alot of this thread and see what people have posted.


----------



## Batpimp

Hey guys I am trying to follow this guide but whenever I click on

About the Guide
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show) <

nothing happens. I tried checking for ad blocker and other things but nothing pops up or expands for me to read. is there something im missing?

I tried opening in chrome and IE


----------



## miklkit

I just tried it and all spoilers in the first post work for me. Firefox here.


----------



## Batpimp

im on a work PC so maybe that's its

ill try at home


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Globber*
> 
> Hey guys. I am running an FX8350 with 16GB Crucial Ballistix Sport 1866Mhz. I am running an ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0 motherboard on 1300 watts and a couple GTX 780's in SLI. A few weeks ago I was playing a few games with my CPU at 4600Mhz on 1.39v and my memory OC'd to 2100Mhz. My GPU's were lightly overclocked1202 Mhz on 1.16v. All of a sudden my screens went black. Then I got the message that my computer recovered from an unexpected crash. I rebooted. Everything powered up fine and seemed to work well, checked voltages in BIOS and everything seemed normal. So I went to log into Civilizations V, got logged in and just before I could do anything I noticed some LED changes in my PC, I looked over and 3 of the voltage LEDs on my top GPU went out and then my screens went black again. So At first I thought I was overclocked too high. I went in and reset all of my GPU specs to default, then shutdown, switched my GPUs to my LN1 BIOS and rebooted. I went into BIOS on my mobo and reset all to default as well. Then went to launch Civ V again and the same thing happened. This was on an old 1000w PSU, so I thought my PSU was failing and grabbed a new one. I had also removed my 2nd GPU until I figured out the problem. After the new PSU went in, everything seemed ok running defaults on a single GPU. I decided that since it was running smooth and I had my new 1300w PSU, I would put my 2nd GPU back in and get it going(all still at default settings). Then 2 weeks ago I was running another game and all of a sudden my game froze, my hardware monitor and GPUz froze up and then all of my programs stopped launching when executed. So I attempted to shut down and got stuck hanging. Had to hard power down. When I powered up my boot drive was not detected anymore, nor were 2 of my other 6 hard drives. Could not get them to show up at all. So I removed the 2nd card again thinking that maybe there were issues with my PCI lanes. Booted back in and my OS drive was detected again and everything powered up, but VERY VERY slow and sluggish. I ran DSKCHK and mem tests, as well as all hardware tests and found no issues. So I rebooted and still same issues with sluggishness, thinking my drive data was corrupted I ran a clean Win7 install and everything seemed to work fine. I reconnected my drives one at a time so I could remap them one by one and everything was working fine. And out of nowhere it happened again. Instead of reinstalling, I tried disconnecting all drives except my OS and then everything was fine, shut down reconnected 2 of my important drives and everything is running just fine, until I try to attach my other HDDs again. Then other drives start to disappear and not be detected in BIOS or by my OS. So now I am back to running the system bare bones with just my 3 drives and everything stock. Does anyone have any suggestions? Sorry for the long explanation.
> 
> My instinct tells me that my SATA/USB controller on my mobo is fried and that's why it won't keep my drives organized. Does anyone have an idea what might be wrong? And if it is most likely my motherboard, what would be my best motherboard option for the FX8350? Since the AMD boards are fairly inexpensive I am not worried as much about the $ tag, just want to make sure I can get the best board possible for my build. I was either thinking about the Crosshair V Formula-Z or the Asrock 990FX Extreme9. Not opposed to the Sabertooth 990FX or the MSI 990FXGD80 V2, it just seems like the first two options have more power and features I like.


Not sure if you resolved this or not (I just caught up on the past couple weeks of posts, and didn't see a post where you said you had resolved it).

That said, it sounds like you had two different issues: replacing the old power supply, and reducing the GPU OC's appears to have addressed the first issue.

The separate, unrelated second issue (as far as I can tell from your detailed description), may have a separate root cause than the Mobo altogether. Crucial SSD's were at one point not very stable with ASUS AMD motherboards, due to a conflict with their controller and the ASUS driver chip. I had similar crashes due to "disappearing" drives, and the root cause was my former OCZ Vertex 3 SSD. I went to Crucial next, as I got a good deal on their best SSD at the time, but prior to opening the package and installing it, I saw similar complaints as compared to my OCZ Sandforce controller issue on different forums. So I returned it, did some more research, and have happily been with Samsung Pro SSD's on my last five builds.

Hope you get it sorted out, if you have not already


----------



## Globber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Not sure if you resolved this or not (I just caught up on the past couple weeks of posts, and didn't see a post where you said you had resolved it).
> 
> That said, it sounds like you had two different issues: replacing the old power supply, and reducing the GPU OC's appears to have addressed the first issue.
> 
> The separate, unrelated second issue (as far as I can tell from your detailed description), may have a separate root cause than the Mobo altogether. Crucial SSD's were at one point not very stable with ASUS AMD motherboards, due to a conflict with their controller and the ASUS driver chip. I had similar crashes due to "disappearing" drives, and the root cause was my former OCZ Vertex 3 SSD. I went to Crucial next, as I got a good deal on their best SSD at the time, but prior to opening the package and installing it, I saw similar complaints as compared to my OCZ Sandforce controller issue on different forums. So I returned it, did some more research, and have happily been with Samsung Pro SSD's on my last five builds.
> 
> Hope you get it sorted out, if you have not already


I wouldn't say that I have actually fixed the issue. I am running my OS on the Toshiba Q-Series Pro SSD now, with the 2 Crucial SSDs also attached. Everything seemed to run fine so I reconnected my 2TB Seagate Barracuda that has my multimedia on it, and after a day the same problems appeared with my Toshiba not showing up. Disconnected the Seagate again and everything booted fine, Received a message that my USB driver wasn't working so I reinstalled drivers and everything is fine. My other systems are using Toshiba Q Series SSDs and WD blue and black drives and have had none of these issues. So I guess it could be it.

I do plan on upgrading to Samsung SSDs at some point, just not quite at that point yet. EVO series decent enough to run? Or go directly to the Pro series? I'll have to see how stability runs with all of my SSDs upgraded to them.

Overclock is running stable again at 4.6 Ghz on 1.39v as well. Memory is at 2099Mhz. I do plan on upgrading to a 32 GB memory kit that is actually on my QVL as well. I am assuming the issues with the overclocks before were most directly related to the lower end PSU. The only times I ever ran into issues were running SLI, single GTX780 is running fine at 1254Mhz on 1.212v.


----------



## Karameikos

I've only used the Pro Series, specifically from the 830 and 840 lines.

That said, my understanding is that all of the Samsung SSD's will be fine, as they make their own controller, and it has no conflicts with the Asus AMD Mobo's.

Not sure if you bought your SSD's at a brick and mortar store, but I was able to get a refund for mine when I had this issue previously. I had even bookmarked the on line threads on the OEM forums complaining of the same issue, but didn't need to show it.

One last note, as it may be relevant: firmware updates reportedly address these issues from time to time, however, I didn't have success with the OCZ Vertex 3: it was 2 revs behind when purchased, neither worked, and I wasn't waiting around for a third revision.

Best of luck to you!


----------



## Globber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Not sure if you bought your SSD's at a brick and mortar store, but I was able to get a refund for mine when I had this issue previously. I had even bookmarked the on line threads on the OEM forums complaining of the same issue, but didn't need to show it.
> 
> Best of luck to you!


I purchased the SSDs so long ago that I am sure I would not be able to return them. If anything I would sell them or just save for my Intel build.

Now, back to overclocking.


----------



## dmnclocker

I posted awhile back. I was able to get 4.4 ghz on cpu voltage at 1.38,that was air cooling. Now I got h100i water cooler, so I decided to try to get higher ghz,I'm testing 4.8 now with cpu voltage 1.46 and so far so good. Temps are 52°.I left the cpu nb voltage to auto. Should I change that? I did try 4.9 ghz and bumped cpu voltage to 1.49,but it crashed. Is there some settings I should change to achieve 4.9 or 5.0 ghz? Thanks in advance.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> I posted awhile back. I was able to get 4.4 ghz on cpu voltage at 1.38,that was air cooling. Now I got h100i water cooler, so I decided to try to get higher ghz,I'm testing 4.8 now with cpu voltage 1.46 and so far so good. Temps are 52°.I left the cpu nb voltage to auto. Should I change that? I did try 4.9 ghz and bumped cpu voltage to 1.49,but it crashed. Is there some settings I should change to achieve 4.9 or 5.0 ghz? Thanks in advance.


Start by filling out your rig sig http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig so we all know what you're system includes.

What/how are you "testing" with?
The fewer items in bios left on auto the better, is a general rule IMHO.

Also depends on what you want/need as far as stability goes. Example, are you just gaming or is your data important to you. This makes a world of difference as stability is subjective to some.
To help more we'll need this info for starters.


----------



## dmnclocker

Sorry for delay I was updating rig info. I'm using prime 95 for test. I'm following this tutorial. I use my pc as a general use pc and also gaming.


----------



## The Sandman

The 8350 typically needs closer to 1.5v Vcore and CPU/NB voltage closer to 1.25 to 1.35v depending on CPU/NB freq and ram settings (possibly more).
You'll find the Digi II settings can be your best friend on the CHV-Z (see spoiler below)
Remember to make small increases and test each setting as you go.

IBT http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 is a good choice for these quick, in between test till you reach your goal and than follow with a Prime95 run (12 - 24hrs).

Just to give you an idea here is what it took for my 8350 to pass a 24 hr run of P95


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Do not just enter what I ran (shown above) as your chip will have different requirements. The only way to determine it's needs is by testing each field on "YOUR" system.
I posted my settings just to give you an idea of what it will probably take. Others may not need as much CPU/NB voltage as my chip using this particular 16GB ram kit which is an 1866MHz kit OC'd to these settings okay. It'll take some time. That's what OCing takes, lots of time









What kind of failures are you seeing when running P95?


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *just wondering*
> 
> I had a similar problem , it turned out to be airflow been the main issue , as i was just about to fit a new case , due to needing to keep the side panel off on my old case , as i had bought a evo 212 heat sink and fan and it was too big for my case.
> 
> previously to the new case , using prime 95 and my amd 8350 oc to 4.4 , the system would heat up fairly quickly then throttle , then heat up , then throttle .
> 
> but since the new case , things have improved a lot , it takes a lot longer now before it even reaches throttling temps
> 
> so make sure you have good airflow and cooling in your case , my current board has 4+1 also , it is a asus m5 a97-le Rr2.0.
> 
> but i have taken the advice from the people on this forum and i have a ASUS sabretooth coming and a Nepton 140XL on there way to me.....


you're talking about something different than me. I'm not talking about the throttling, I'm talking about the stability when the throttling code runs.


----------



## dmnclocker

Ty so much for help, I was able to get 4.8 ghz, cpu voltage at 1.47. I left cpu/nb to auto. I passed a 15 min test small on prime 95,but when I ran custom at 75%ram. I have 16 Gb,so I used 12288 ram and it fails after awhile.


----------



## dmnclocker

Also I'm using the setting that automatically puts ram info in. The ram speed it puts is 1333. I seen recommended settings was 1600 for ram. Should I change it to 1600?


----------



## Mega Man

yes you will also want timings, do you know the mn of the ram you got ( ie a link )


----------



## Ztaal3

Hey, maybe you guys could help me with an issue I've been having. I'm having to redo my overclock of my 8350 after almost a year of stable use, it have been running at 4.8ghz with no problems. Don't remember the exact voltage I had, but was 1.38 or something. Then early this week I started to see som weirdness when gaming, so tried running prime again, failure after 10sec on one or more cores, tried aida64 worked until stressing gpus, ran furmark and gpus seems fine. So not knowing the issue I started from scratch, and have now been testing oc with prime and I now have to run 1.425 v, it's sett to use 12gb ram now temps are OK 51 c pack and 62 core.

Any ideas why it suddenly needs more voltage than before? Nothing has changed same GHz and bus and ratio...
Also I get to 4.7ghz on 1.35 v (stock 1.344)


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ztaal3*
> 
> Hey, maybe you guys could help me with an issue I've been having. I'm having to redo my overclock of my 8350 after almost a year of stable use, it have been running at 4.8ghz with no problems. Don't remember the exact voltage I had, but was 1.38 or something. Then early this week I started to see som weirdness when gaming, so tried running prime again, failure after 10sec on one or more cores, tried aida64 worked until stressing gpus, ran furmark and gpus seems fine. So not knowing the issue I started from scratch, and have now been testing oc with prime and I now have to run 1.425 v, it's sett to use 12gb ram now temps are OK 51 c pack and 62 core.
> 
> Any ideas why it suddenly needs more voltage than before? Nothing has changed same GHz and bus and ratio...
> Also I get to 4.7ghz on 1.35 v (stock 1.344)


has anything changed? like adding more RAM?


----------



## Ztaal3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> has anything changed? like adding more RAM?


Nope, nothing changed since I got the 8350, originally it was prime95 stable for 24 hours


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ztaal3*
> 
> Nope, nothing changed since I got the 8350, originally it was prime95 stable for 24 hours


Ambient change?

or something ended up getting reset.. the voltage is well within even the stock voltages so I wouldn't say any type of degradation.. perhaps fans are dirty or something has changed the internal ambients..


----------



## ComputerRestore

Hey everyone. Thanks for keeping my Guide going. I haven't been able to frequent the OCN forums as much as I would like. I'm glad to see how many people it's helped in unlocking the potential of these amazing CPU's.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ztaal3*
> 
> Hey, maybe you guys could help me with an issue I've been having. I'm having to redo my overclock of my 8350 after almost a year of stable use, it have been running at 4.8ghz with no problems. Don't remember the exact voltage I had, but was 1.38 or something. Then early this week I started to see som weirdness when gaming, so tried running prime again, failure after 10sec on one or more cores, tried aida64 worked until stressing gpus, ran furmark and gpus seems fine. So not knowing the issue I started from scratch, and have now been testing oc with prime and I now have to run 1.425 v, it's sett to use 12gb ram now temps are OK 51 c pack and 62 core.
> 
> Any ideas why it suddenly needs more voltage than before? Nothing has changed same GHz and bus and ratio...
> Also I get to 4.7ghz on 1.35 v (stock 1.344)


Are you certain of your previous settings prior to re-doing your Overclock?

4.0Ghz @ 1.344 - 4.8Ghz @ 1.38

800 Mhz for 0.036v would be one amazing chip -> although your CPU could possibly Boot at that voltage I could not see it being stable/prime stable

Even 4.8Ghz @ 1.425 is incredible. There is the possibility of electron migration causing the need for higher voltages (usually caused constantly high voltages/temps) but really, I think that either your OC was not stable, or you just forgot what your actual voltages were.

I'm curious if anyone has tried to run the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility on their AMD CPU. As Intel itself has had issues with Prime Stability, it has it's redesigned utility for tweaking and testing it's CPUs. As I no longer have my Piledriver setup, due to selling/buying so many different setups to play around with, I am unable to see if it would even run on an AMD build.

Here is the link if anyone is interested.

http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/motherboards/desktop-motherboards/desktop-boards-software-extreme-tuning-utility.html


----------



## Ztaal3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Ambient change?
> 
> or something ended up getting reset.. the voltage is well within even the stock voltages so I wouldn't say any type of degradation.. perhaps fans are dirty or something has changed the internal ambients..


I see what you are thinking, but not really ambient temperatures here in Norway is not a problem, 20-22c.
No dirt in her all fans have magnetic filters and it gets a "blowjob" 2-3 times a year.

Im just really surprised as its been stable for so long, games and rendering


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Even 4.8Ghz @ 1.425 is incredible. There is the possibility of electron migration causing the need for higher voltages (usually caused constantly high voltages/temps) but really, I think that either your OC was not stable, or you just forgot what your actual voltages were.


^pretty much this.. 1.425 really is nothing,

I suggest also getting another drive and testing a fresh install of OS.. there are some funky thinks that either temp files or a corrupted OS do.. especially with installs.. I am 99% sure that this is either a missed setting or not a hardware issue at all..


----------



## Ztaal3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hey everyone. Thanks for keeping my Guide going. I haven't been able to frequent the OCN forums as much as I would like. I'm glad to see how many people it's helped in unlocking the potential of these amazing CPU's.
> Are you certain of your previous settings prior to re-doing your Overclock?
> 
> 4.0Ghz @ 1.344 - 4.8Ghz @ 1.38
> 
> 800 Mhz for 0.036v would be one amazing chip -> although your CPU could possibly Boot at that voltage I could not see it being stable/prime stable
> 
> Even 4.8Ghz @ 1.425 is incredible. There is the possibility of electron migration causing the need for higher voltages (usually caused constantly high voltages/temps) but really, I think that either your OC was not stable, or you just forgot what your actual voltages were.


You might be correct, but it did run fin on both gaming and rendering for hours and it's always been a 24/7 on pc, just now it's been dropping out of games so I thought I would check it, Aida64 reported at test 1.38 something so almost 1.39, im now on my 10th current hour of prime95 and cpuid says 1.428v, hw monitor says CPU 64-65c package is 53-54

Yeah thanks for the great guid, have been using it every time since I got a 8350 
Glad to hear I'm not on crazy volts, what is "normal" for 4.8?


----------



## Ztaal3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> ^pretty much this.. 1.425 really is nothing,
> 
> I suggest also getting another drive and testing a fresh install of OS.. there are some funky thinks that either temp files or a corrupted OS do.. especially with installs.. I am 99% sure that this is either a missed setting or not a hardware issue at all..


Os is pretty fresh, went to 8.1 1-2 months ago... Hmm maybe I'm just paranoid )


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ztaal3*
> 
> Os is pretty fresh, went to 8.1 1-2 months ago... Hmm maybe I'm just paranoid )


That is a huge difference alone.. You may have appeared to be stable under 8 and now with the update you are not as the OC wasn't 100% stable before.. ORRRR the OS has cached files crap some where... That makes perfect sense TBH


----------



## Ztaal3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> That is a huge difference alone.. You may have appeared to be stable under 8 and now with the update you are not as the OC wasn't 100% stable before.. ORRRR the OS has cached files crap some where... That makes perfect sense TBH


Yeah I'm not sure, but seems fine now with the new tune, maybe I should try 5 GHz this time


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hey everyone. Thanks for keeping my Guide going. I haven't been able to frequent the OCN forums as much as I would like. I'm glad to see how many people it's helped in unlocking the potential of these amazing CPU's.
> 
> I'm curious if anyone has tried to run the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility on their AMD CPU. As Intel itself has had issues with Prime Stability, it has it's redesigned utility for tweaking and testing it's CPUs. As I no longer have my Piledriver setup, due to selling/buying so many different setups to play around with, I am unable to see if it would even run on an AMD build.
> 
> Here is the link if anyone is interested.
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/motherboards/desktop-motherboards/desktop-boards-software-extreme-tuning-utility.html


That's a no go ComputerRestore, XTU won't run on AMD at all. It only runs on INTEL and then only the newer ones. Also the XTU stability test and Bench are based off of P95, don't know if it's a direct use or modified but it shows in task manager while running and it's a hard bench on the CPU, a lot of heat from that one.
AFIK P95 runs fine on FX and i7, have tested both of them. The only warning I recall was that if the voltages (intel) were left on adaptive/auto then the system tends to use much higher voltages when processing AVX instructions and was causing a lot of hot processors. Many Intel users won't touch P95 but I found many of the other stability test just didn't cut it.


----------



## MisterMusculo

Hello everybody!

I'm a new member and this is just my second post after the introductionary one. So I'll cut straight to the point. I've managed to oc my fx 8350 to 4.8ghz using fsb and following jayz2cents video guide on youtube. I have an asus crosshair v formula-z and ek L240 water cooling loop (kit with 240mm radiator). As mentioned already, my oc seems stable @ 4.8 with the voltage set on 1.42v. I haven't been running prime95 for much more than an hour, but everything was perfectly stable. However my temps disallowed me to go further, because I've just reached 8350's max with about 71 on the socket and cca 60 to 62 on the core.

My biggest question now is related to the speed of my ram and nb, ht link. I don't have much idea about how to overclock these and whether I should even do it, regarding my temps now reaching safe maximum under full load. I'm still running around 30 in idle and perhaps max 50 (talking about socket, I get much less on the cores) in most stressfull applications that I use daily. When ocing using fsb, we all know that everything changes along with cpu frequency, but I have been lowering the nb and ht link on purpose, and have achieved only very small overcloks on those two. I've also left my ram on 1599mhz, which is the closest number that I could get near my default of 1600mhz. I've aplied the same principle to nb and ht link, I'm running my nb at around 2400 (default 2200), and ht link a little above the default of 2600. I've had to manually input my correct ram timings, which I've written down from the time when I had my ram on it's factory profile using D.O.C.P. mode in bios. (I hate that fsb overclocking, multiplyer seems much easier and also seem to bring me lower temps). But I haven't set anything in ram driving control, so I'm a bit puzzled if everything is optimal as I run it now. I know that 1599 should be virtually the same as 1600mhz, but I'm still not 100% assured that my settings are ok.

I also want to know what to do with nb and ht link and how to maybe tweak it a bit more if possible, maybe get a bit better oc out of it. I also haven't seen much improvement in some applications, especially games with my cpu running at 4.8 compared to my previous attempt (prior to mb and cooling solution switch), when I used multiplyer oc running @ 4.5ghz.

I'm also quite saddened by the fact I've "only" managed to get it to 4.8ghz, regarding my pretty low voltage at this point, I have a feeling that I could push it up to 5ghz, but it seems even my custom loop can't handle the temps for 5.0 properly. Any suggestions will be most welcome, thank you in advance guys!


----------



## Johan45

To get to 5.0 you're going to need great heat tranfer lot's of fresh air into the case and get some fans around the VRM and back of the motherboard. As for FSB VS Multi a bit of each is always good the performance differences will be minimal in day to day use so if you felt temps were better before maybe use more multi and less reference clock.I would leave the HT and NB right where they are. Have you added CPU_NB voltage?


----------



## MisterMusculo

@Johan45: Thanks man, but I doubt that I'm prepared to sacrifice my very pleasant pc noice level to those 5.0ghz that I could hypotethicaly achieve with those extra fans and air flow. My exact NB and HT frequencies are: - NB 2400
- HT link 2640.

I haven't changed added any voltage to the default CPU_NB value, which is 1.162 for my system. I've just set it manually. Do you think everything is ok as it is now? What about possible ram oc? I'm running 2 sticks of 1600mhz low voltage (1.5v) dd3 cl9 g-skill Ares ram.


----------



## Johan45

That's fine you asked about 5.0, there's nothing wrong with 4.8 on one of these systems. Now when it comes to ram, that ares should run at 1866 with a bump in voltage to 1.65, it will need testing of course. You may need to set timings like 9-10-9-27 but we'll see. TYhe one thing to remember though is that as you increase ram speed it puts more load on the IMC( CPU_NB) which you have at 2400 with no voltage increase so if you're having difficulty after upping the ram speed I would suggest upping the CPU_NB voltage to 1.25-1.3v if necessary.


----------



## rybonator1990

Hey everybody! Just a quick question, I'm using HWMonitor, and it shows CPU temp and Package temp, which of those corresponds to core and socket temp?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rybonator1990*
> 
> Hey everybody! Just a quick question, I'm using HWMonitor, and it shows CPU temp and Package temp, which of those corresponds to core and socket temp?


CPU temp = socket
Package = core temp

Personally I find HWInfo64 less buggy and is known to work better on Asus mobo's


----------



## rybonator1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> CPU temp = socket
> Package = core temp
> 
> Personally I find HWInfo64 less buggy and is known to work better on Asus mobo's


I've been running prime for about an hour now, core is at 48°C and socket is at 58°C, core voltage at 1.26th, FX 8320 @ 4214 MHz


----------



## soccerballtux

are you sure the board is still supplying same voltage under load as before? My IP35-e had increasing droop. Every 9 months or so had to give an extra 0.025v to keep 1.48v under load.

check the LLC.

edit: this for Ztaal. quote not working some reason.

anyways, now that you have stable on 1.425, I would try dropping back to 1.38 and see if anything changes. Ever since everything went UEFI it's been really hard to get consistency out of computing products. Transient stuff like that happens and it turns out it's not the voltage at all. to me at least.


----------



## rybonator1990

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> are you sure the board is still supplying same voltage under load as before? My IP35-e had increasing droop. Every 9 months or so had to give an extra 0.025v to keep 1.48v under load.
> 
> check the LLC.


Minimum voltage has been 1.248, max 1.332


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Hey everyone. Thanks for keeping my Guide going. I haven't been able to frequent the OCN forums as much as I would like. I'm glad to see how many people it's helped in unlocking the potential of these amazing CPU's.
> I'm curious if anyone has tried to run the Intel Extreme Tuning Utility on their AMD CPU. As Intel itself has had issues with Prime Stability, it has it's redesigned utility for tweaking and testing it's CPUs. As I no longer have my Piledriver setup, due to selling/buying so many different setups to play around with, I am unable to see if it would even run on an AMD build.
> 
> Here is the link if anyone is interested.
> 
> http://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/motherboards/desktop-motherboards/desktop-boards-software-extreme-tuning-utility.html
> 
> 
> 
> That's a no go ComputerRestore, XTU won't run on AMD at all. It only runs on INTEL and then only the newer ones. Also the XTU stability test and Bench are based off of P95, don't know if it's a direct use or modified but it shows in task manager while running and it's a hard bench on the CPU, a lot of heat from that one.
> AFIK P95 runs fine on FX and i7, have tested both of them. The only warning I recall was that if the voltages (intel) were left on adaptive/auto then the system tends to use much higher voltages when processing AVX instructions and was causing a lot of hot processors. Many Intel users won't touch P95 but I found many of the other stability test just didn't cut it.
Click to expand...

dont say that in the DC thread, you will be run out like a heretic, as " that level of stability is not needed and unnecessary "
glad to see i am not the only one
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterMusculo*
> 
> Hello everybody!
> 
> I'm a new member and this is just my second post after the introductionary one. So I'll cut straight to the point. I've managed to oc my fx 8350 to 4.8ghz using fsb and following jayz2cents video guide on youtube. I have an asus crosshair v formula-z and ek L240 water cooling loop (kit with 240mm radiator). As mentioned already, my oc seems stable @ 4.8 with the voltage set on 1.42v. I haven't been running prime95 for much more than an hour, but everything was perfectly stable. However my temps disallowed me to go further, because I've just reached 8350's max with about 71 on the socket and cca 60 to 62 on the core.
> 
> My biggest question now is related to the speed of my ram and nb, ht link. I don't have much idea about how to overclock these and whether I should even do it, regarding my temps now reaching safe maximum under full load. I'm still running around 30 in idle and perhaps max 50 (talking about socket, I get much less on the cores) in most stressfull applications that I use daily. When ocing using fsb, we all know that everything changes along with cpu frequency, but I have been lowering the nb and ht link on purpose, and have achieved only very small overcloks on those two. I've also left my ram on 1599mhz, which is the closest number that I could get near my default of 1600mhz. I've aplied the same principle to nb and ht link, I'm running my nb at around 2400 (default 2200), and ht link a little above the default of 2600. I've had to manually input my correct ram timings, which I've written down from the time when I had my ram on it's factory profile using D.O.C.P. mode in bios. (I hate that fsb overclocking, multiplyer seems much easier and also seem to bring me lower temps). But I haven't set anything in ram driving control, so I'm a bit puzzled if everything is optimal as I run it now. I know that 1599 should be virtually the same as 1600mhz, but I'm still not 100% assured that my settings are ok.
> 
> I also want to know what to do with nb and ht link and how to maybe tweak it a bit more if possible, maybe get a bit better oc out of it. I also haven't seen much improvement in some applications, especially games with my cpu running at 4.8 compared to my previous attempt (prior to mb and cooling solution switch), when I used multiplyer oc running @ 4.5ghz.
> 
> I'm also quite saddened by the fact I've "only" managed to get it to 4.8ghz, regarding my pretty low voltage at this point, I have a feeling that I could push it up to 5ghz, but it seems even my custom loop can't handle the temps for 5.0 properly. Any suggestions will be most welcome, thank you in advance guys!


first welcome,

i like jayz but frankly i wont watch the ocing vidas i doubt he would teach me anything, and as much as i like him i have seen a few videos that frankly he spread enough false info i would not trust him

with that said the biggest thing holding you back is your ram, .... i know 1600 is all you need... meh to that...

as to HT

simply DONT not worth it unless you run 3-4 gpus,

cpu/nb you wont find much gains, esp at 1600 ram, if you were @2400 maybe. but just barely !

as to ocing fsb vs multi,

go with multi, why push fsb when there is little to no benefit for you

if you want i can get into how to oc both cpu/nb and ht, but it will be a no go road for you. ( i e no increases in perf. )

my 8350 i ran @ 4.8/2700/3900 *( speedcpu-cpu/nb-HT ) @ 2400 cl10 ram

i would highly recommend rigbuilder ( see my sig ) and bios screenshots,

again not seeing that video

make sure cpu/nb is @ ~ 1.2v shouldnt need much more. it will generate a TON of heat !!!

@~4.8+ you need a fan on the vrm/nb at min!~ possibly cooling on the back of the socket, although i have yet to do that or need to,

Core you can * according to AOD * go to 72c

** AOD = AMD OverDrive they changed core temp to thermal margin, which now corresponds to 72c

let me know if you have any other questions !~


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> dont say that in the DC thread, you will be run out like a heretic, as " that level of stability is not needed and unnecessary "
> glad to see i am not the only one
> 
> ~


Yes, this I know and thanks. When I first OCd my 4770k I used AIDA64 as many people/guides suggested and I was seriously impressed with my CPU. That is untill I tried to [email protected] with it and it crashed as soon as the test started. I started a thread about it at OCF cause I was a bit pissed that I had wasted a whole day to get nowhere with a test that wasn't suitable. Part of the reason I was always skeptical of IBT. Now I have learned to use it as another stability tool and have you guys to thank for that.


----------



## ComputerRestore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ztaal3*
> 
> Yeah thanks for the great guid, have been using it every time since I got a 8350
> Glad to hear I'm not on crazy volts, what is "normal" for 4.8?


Typical Voltage for a 4.8Ghz Overclock is 1.45-1.5v

So it sounds like you have a really great CPU there. Maybe it was a 9590 that snuck in as an 8350








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> That's a no go ComputerRestore, XTU won't run on AMD at all. It only runs on INTEL and then only the newer ones. Also the XTU stability test and Bench are based off of P95, don't know if it's a direct use or modified but it shows in task manager while running and it's a hard bench on the CPU, a lot of heat from that one.
> AFIK P95 runs fine on FX and i7, have tested both of them. The only warning I recall was that if the voltages (intel) were left on adaptive/auto then the system tends to use much higher voltages when processing AVX instructions and was causing a lot of hot processors. Many Intel users won't touch P95 but I found many of the other stability test just didn't cut it.


Thanks for checking for me. I suspect that XTU is a modified version of Prime95 as it seems to be able to test the instructions/cpu without stressing the power delivery as hard. Maybe modified due to Haswell-E boards burning up (8 Cores 16 threads)

Since VRM stress causes the socket, and thus CPU to heat up and in some cases causing false negatives (throttling etc), I thought it might be a useful tool for those to check stability, if they aren't planning on say, running [email protected] Too bad Intel doesn't play nice like that.


----------



## Ztaal3

Yeah went back and tested lower voltage, but the same thing happened, failure after 10-15 min. Guess I'm happy with it as long as it keeps stable 

Yeah was thinking about getting a 9590, but if I got one already there is no point :-D hehe, only need to get the 5.0 GHz speed ;-)


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ztaal3*
> 
> Yeah went back and tested lower voltage, but the same thing happened, failure after 10-15 min. Guess I'm happy with it as long as it keeps stable
> 
> Yeah was thinking about getting a 9590, but if I got one already there is no point :-D hehe, only need to get the 5.0 GHz speed ;-)


weird.

are you sure the board hasn't developed some vdroop?


----------



## MisterMusculo

Hey what up me again, I just wanna know one simple thing, I have crosshair v formula-z, which has some more options under digi power control than it's predecessor crosshair v formula. I'm running my 8350 @ 4.8 with following settings. I'll post a screenshot, all I want from you guys is whether my settings under that bios section are ok or should I change anything? It seems my oc is very stable now, therefore I'd also like to know if I can now turn any of those power saving settings back on/to which values. Thanks!


----------



## Ztaal3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> weird.
> 
> are you sure the board hasn't developed some vdroop?


I'm sorry not sure how to know if it has. I haven't been measuring anything directly on the board.


----------



## Johan45

Those settings look fine to me.
as for the power savings. Those will only work if you use offset voltages for your overclock. Unless you do that the board can't change volts or clocks. Does that answer your question?


----------



## MisterMusculo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Those settings look fine to me.
> as for the power savings. Those will only work if you use offset voltages for your overclock. Unless you do that the board can't change volts or clocks. Does that answer your question?


Yeah thanks, I think I'll just leave them as they are now. Honestly I don't even care so much about electricity bill since I live alone and my bill is very small either way. Plus I have a feeling things are more stable with them always off so let's leave it like it is now. I only left core6 state or something similar on, I've been said it's nothing wrong with that, I think that keeps my vcore a bit lower when idling, correct me if I'm wrong please.


----------



## Johan45

Like I said it won't do anything right now. Using offset isn't overly difficult. You just need your CPU VID and your load voltage. If the stock CPU voltage is 1.3 say and you need 1.45v for your current clock then you set an offset of .15v minus whatever the LLC. Then with all the greenstuff and C&Q on the PC will idle at 1.4GHz and .9v but cycle up to your OC clocks when there's a load.


----------



## MisterMusculo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Like I said it won't do anything right now. Using offset isn't overly difficult. You just need your CPU VID and your load voltage. If the stock CPU voltage is 1.3 say and you need 1.45v for your current clock then you set an offset of .15v minus whatever the LLC. Then with all the greenstuff and C&Q on the PC will idle at 1.4GHz and .9v but cycle up to your OC clocks when there's a load.


Is VID the same as my stock voltage on the cpu before the oc?
How do you mean minus LLC? My LLC is set to ultra high, which is 75%, I don't exactly understand what do I need to do with that. Plus I don't even know where do you set the offset, it's probably an option in bios, I gotta look it up...


----------



## Johan45

The offset is an option instead of manual voltage. The LLC setting adds a bit of voltage to your bios setting under load. So taking the last example of 1.3 VID and 1.45 under load. Assume that the LLC adds .02v you'd set the offset to 0.13v. That way when LLC kicks in you get the 0.15v offset. If you use HWINfo it will show you your VID for CPU and CPU-NB


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ztaal3*
> 
> I'm sorry not sure how to know if it has. I haven't been measuring anything directly on the board.


in CPU-Z. The CPU knows what voltage it's getting.

For example, I have 2 monitors, and always have CPU-Z running. over time, you memorize the voltage it runs at, and droops to, under load.


----------



## Ztaal3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> in CPU-Z. The CPU knows what voltage it's getting.
> 
> For example, I have 2 monitors, and always have CPU-Z running. over time, you memorize the voltage it runs at, and droops to, under load.


Yeah all volt reading is done in cpuz so it is with llc and all


----------



## MisterMusculo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> The offset is an option instead of manual voltage. The LLC setting adds a bit of voltage to your bios setting under load. So taking the last example of 1.3 VID and 1.45 under load. Assume that the LLC adds .02v you'd set the offset to 0.13v. That way when LLC kicks in you get the 0.15v offset. If you use HWINfo it will show you your VID for CPU and CPU-NB


So lets see if I got this right. My VID is 1.3 according to HWinfo (exact same as you mentioned as example), and my vcore is 1.42(5000). I don't completely understand how do you calculate how much LLC you gotta take into the equasion. So I have my LLC set to ultra high, meaning 75%. If I take 0.02 for the LLC as you mentioned, my correct offset would be 0.10v.

Is that correct, do I need to calculate LLC value more precisely (based on certain formula)?

And last but not least: Which power saving features can I turn back on after setting the offset? All of them or do I need to leave anything off.
Thanks for the great help so far Johan!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterMusculo*
> 
> Hey what up me again, I just wanna know one simple thing, I have crosshair v formula-z, which has some more options under digi power control than it's predecessor crosshair v formula. I'm running my 8350 @ 4.8 with following settings. I'll post a screenshot, all I want from you guys is whether my settings under that bios section are ok or should I change anything? It seems my oc is very stable now, therefore I'd also like to know if I can now turn any of those power saving settings back on/to which values. Thanks!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


none of that is power savings
Cool N Quiet
C1E
C6
APM
HPC are power savings
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Those settings look fine to me.
> as for the power savings. Those will only work if you use offset voltages for your overclock. Unless you do that the board can't change volts or clocks. Does that answer your question?


fixed, if not using offset it wont change volts, clock it still can


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> none of that is power savings
> Cool N Quiet
> C1E
> C6
> APM
> HPC are power savings
> fixed, if not using offset it wont change volts, clock it still can


C1E and C6 are OK. Nobody who's anybody really knows if they affect stability, people just started parroting it. I can't objectively say if it's nonsense or not, but I haven't had problems with mine enabled; and it's significantly improved temps, too.


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

I have both CnQ and C1E enabled. Haven't tried C6 though, maybe I have and forgot. Once I finish with my RAM I'll probably try enabling C6 and testing for stability. I've hit my limit on CPU as above 4.9GHz I'll likely hit the Temperature Wall. Limit on my RAM until I get it RMAed, so only C6 left.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> none of that is power savings
> Cool N Quiet
> C1E
> C6
> APM
> HPC are power savings
> fixed, if not using offset it wont change volts, clock it still can
> 
> 
> 
> C1E and C6 are OK. Nobody who's anybody really knows if they affect stability, people just started parroting it. I can't objectively say if it's nonsense or not, but I haven't had problems with mine enabled; and it's significantly improved temps, too.
Click to expand...

First of all who is saying they are?

C1e
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-the-CPU-C-States-Power-Saving-Modes/611
C6
http://www.overclock.net/t/1328938/what-is-core-c6-state-exactly

This is best I could do I
On mobile

Again who said to shut them off. C6 can cause other issues however.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> I have both CnQ and C1E enabled. Haven't tried C6 though, maybe I have and forgot. Once I finish with my RAM I'll probably try enabling C6 *and testing for stability.* I've hit my limit on CPU as above 4.9GHz I'll likely hit the Temperature Wall. Limit on my RAM until I get it RMAed, so only C6 left.


I wouldn't bother. It's only used during suspend. The higher the C-state, the deeper the sleep. C5 is practically off.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> First of all who is saying they are?
> 
> C1e
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Everything-You-Need-to-Know-About-the-CPU-C-States-Power-Saving-Modes/611
> C6
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1328938/what-is-core-c6-state-exactly
> 
> This is best I could do I
> On mobile
> 
> Again who said to shut them off. C6 can cause other issues however.


lot of the guides around here about overclocking say it 'can cause stability problems', for example the 8350 overclocking guide, the 990FX/970A-UD3P overclocking guide, etc.


----------



## Mega Man

Ok. Well I don't with the exemption of my ud3 I oc with everything on. On my ud7 APM causes bsod. I think it has to do with the fact there is no socket temp.

Either way. My point is. Not everyone does. I will to new people. Because it does change the way chips behave.


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> I wouldn't bother. It's only used during suspend. The higher the C-state, the deeper the sleep. C5 is practically off.


Ah I see, thanks. My PC does not suspend/sleep as I have it on or off.


----------



## adam45417

In the middle of overclocking my CPU, I have been recording temps and the CPU voltage from 3.5 to 4.3 ghz.

I'm Running a Amd 8320 + Hyper 212 Evo on a M5A97 R2.0

4.3ghz is stable on the stock voltage which is 1.225v.
Iv'e Been running 10-15min tests on Prime 95 Small fft's.

I tried yesterday Overclocking but give up as I was annoyed at the voltage as it kept going under what I had manually set in the bios for example at 4.0ghz I had 1.25v but it was reading 1.164v in HWmonitor.

So after some reading I decided to give it a go today by enabling LLC and my volts now stay around what I have set for example when set at 1.225v they change to 1.236v at idle and 1.266v at load.

Do these readings same right and can some one explain it more to me, if i was right enabling LLC.

Also temps are getting quite high at 4.3ghz even at stock volts.

Idle - Socket 36c, CPU 17c
Load - Socket 68c~69c, CPU 50c

These temps same like my motherboard is holding me back so I was wondering about attaching a CPU fan to the board to help cool it.

Anyway just need some help and want to know if I am doing all this right.

Oh and since I am manually changing the CPU voltage how do I put back on some energy saving features like Cool n quiet.

Also is this normal when testing in Prime ?

https://gyazo.com/fb3df4af2750babf2e19fb39bc3bf0ca

Test 1 skipped onto test 2 after the 5mins, although test 2 passed and the following test also passed.


----------



## Johan45

The readings do seem right and enabling LLC is the right thing to do. It helps with the voltage regulation. Now on to the board. Yes mounting some fans will help over the VRM and behind the motherboard if you can. That should help to drop the socket temps a bit. That board and that cooler(hyper212) will hold you back from going a lot further though. Here's some pics of fans


----------



## adam45417

Thanks a lot for the reply







.

I have settled for 4.3ghz in the end as the temps where hitting 68c for the socket in prime.
I just ran an OCCT test there now for 1hr 5mins. I have some graphs here If you would like to look at them as I don't know what I am looking at lol and would feel better getting an opinion from you looking at them.

I'll upload them below.

Also I have the fan from my stock cooler would i be better of putting it on the VRM's or the back of the motherboard.


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam45417*
> 
> In the middle of overclocking my CPU, I have been recording temps and the CPU voltage from 3.5 to 4.3 ghz.
> 
> I'm Running a Amd 8320 + Hyper 212 Evo on a M5A97 R2.0
> 
> 4.3ghz is stable on the stock voltage which is 1.225v.
> Iv'e Been running 10-15min tests on Prime 95 Small fft's.
> 
> I tried yesterday Overclocking but give up as I was annoyed at the voltage as it kept going under what I had manually set in the bios for example at 4.0ghz I had 1.25v but it was reading 1.164v in HWmonitor.
> 
> So after some reading I decided to give it a go today by enabling LLC and my volts now stay around what I have set for example when set at 1.225v they change to 1.236v at idle and 1.266v at load.
> 
> Do these readings same right and can some one explain it more to me, if i was right enabling LLC.
> 
> Also temps are getting quite high at 4.3ghz even at stock volts.
> 
> Idle - Socket 36c, CPU 17c
> Load - Socket 68c~69c, CPU 50c
> 
> These temps same like my motherboard is holding me back so I was wondering about attaching a CPU fan to the board to help cool it.
> 
> Anyway just need some help and want to know if I am doing all this right.
> 
> Oh and since I am manually changing the CPU voltage how do I put back on some energy saving features like Cool n quiet.
> 
> Also is this normal when testing in Prime ?
> 
> https://gyazo.com/fb3df4af2750babf2e19fb39bc3bf0ca
> 
> Test 1 skipped onto test 2 after the 5mins, although test 2 passed and the following test also passed.


Keep an eye on that board. I had one of those and it died a few weeks after I put this FX8320 on it. Wasn't even pushing it, 4.0GHz on stock.


----------



## adam45417

Thanks for the reply, I've had the board for around 4 months all is good so far before oc. Just started the custom prime test with 75% of ram usage and 2 cores crashed after 20mins :/. Wasn't expecting that think I'll go back to 4.2ghz and try the same test instead of adding more voltage as temps are high even at this voltage.


----------



## adam45417

So I just changed the clock speed to 4.2ghz and ran prime again for 2 hours and everything is stable.


----------



## Johan45

That's good, happy putering


----------



## Mega Man

yea, 212 needs to go first sorry ...


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam45417*
> 
> Thanks for the reply, I've had the board for around 4 months all is good so far before oc. Just started the custom prime test with 75% of ram usage and 2 cores crashed after 20mins :/. Wasn't expecting that think I'll go back to 4.2ghz and try the same test instead of adding more voltage as temps are high even at this voltage.


to give you an idea I need at least one step above 1.3125v for stability, I crash at 1.3125v on my 8310 at 4.3ghz. I bumped it 2 steps to 1.33-something-volts and am stable.

your temps are perfectly fine. Don't worry about the socket temp, that's a diode underneath the processor in the socket and doesn't have any airflow. Hitting 70C (I've been to 80) is to be expected and not cause for concern. In general, I've had issues with the CPU temp going above 65C. Try to keep under 63C. You might have trouble with 4.5-4.7ghz but you should be fine with your 212 cooler at 4.3ghz. Also watch out for CPU VRM throttling. I regularly hit that after about 5-10mintues on Prime95 max-heat/power consumption setting. The VRM heatsinks aren't made [finned] as well as they used to be, and these CPUs take more power than AMDs used to take


----------



## Mega Man

Do you gave any proof for the numbers your throwing out?


----------



## adam45417

Is that aimed towards me Mega Man ? lol. And if I was to go higher and bump up the voltage where would the best place to install the small cpu fan I have be on the vrms or at the back. ?

And to be fair the 212 keeps the cpu temps around 50c at 4.3ghz it's just the socket temps getting high.


----------



## Johan45

What people don't realize is that the core( calculated temp) Is based in part off of the socket temp which is a real measurement. Now other things will affect the socket temp but one of the biggest is how well your CPU cooler does pulling the heat away from the CPU.

If you notice in this pic that the package and cpu temps are ~ 10c apart which is where they should be. I'm not using any fans I just have an exceptional water loop. My point is that the CPU cooler IS the most important part of the cooling as well as the motherboard. Better boards dissipate heat more effectively and transfer power with less heat produced. Your board Is OK for a mild OC but if you want to go higher I would suggest a better cooler or strap a fan on the back of the board and leave it where it is.


----------



## adam45417

Thanks for the reply's, I don't really want to buy a new cooler prob just get a better one next time im upgrading. Might keep attaching the fan to the back of the board a go though and see how the temps change.

Just use some double sided tape?.

On another note, do these fire strike benches look ok, CPU performance mostly.

Mine- http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/6471059

Beats my friends score who has a 8350 at 4.3ghz and 4.7ghz turbo which he used amd catalyst auto clock to do. His cpu scores are terrible, told him to do it through bios...

Mates - http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/6471307

Pretty sure his ram is underclocked aswell


----------



## Johan45

Double sided tape works fine that's what i used and for the speed your score looks fine for the speed. If you're comparing CPU score check the physics. It's your best indicator. Or a test like Cinebench R15


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam45417*
> 
> Is that aimed towards me Mega Man ? lol. And if I was to go higher and bump up the voltage where would the best place to install the small cpu fan I have be on the vrms or at the back. ?
> 
> And to be fair the 212 keeps the cpu temps around 50c at 4.3ghz it's just the socket temps getting high.


on the VRMs


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> What people don't realize is that the core( calculated temp) Is based in part off of the socket temp which is a real measurement. Now other things will affect the socket temp but one of the biggest is how well your CPU cooler does pulling the heat away from the CPU.
> 
> If you notice in this pic that the package and cpu temps are ~ 10c apart which is where they should be. I'm not using any fans I just have an exceptional water loop. My point is that the CPU cooler IS the most important part of the cooling as well as the motherboard. Better boards dissipate heat more effectively and transfer power with less heat produced. Your board Is OK for a mild OC but if you want to go higher I would suggest a better cooler or strap a fan on the back of the board and leave it where it is.


it is not 'part of the calculated temp'. In these small packages entropy is basically a hard science. Die is 55C? under the die is going to be roughly warmer than that. Right now I'm showing a socket temp of 50C, and core temp of 33C. If I open Prime95 and start a max-heat-power-consumption stress test the core temp jumps to 50C but the socket temp slowly edges up to 55C after about 5 seconds...then slowly higher after that. That's the capacitive lag of the heat transfer we're seeing. Go ahead, test it yourself. After 10 minutes it heats up a bit more than that to 68-70C or so when the CPU is at 60C.

'the board transferring power' isn't what's creating that heat. There's some residual heat that passes through the copper power planes from the VRMs running at 100C+ but the diode temperature in the socket is because the CPU is directly top of it and is getting hot. The CPU heatsink only takes heat from the TOP of the CPU, but some of the heat radiates to the bottom of the CPU, into the air underneath it, and then convects to the diode on the motherboard. The thermal capacity of solids is much higher than gasses (air) which is why we see the socket temperature lags behind the CPU temperature


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam45417*
> 
> Thanks for the reply's, I don't really want to buy a new cooler prob just get a better one next time im upgrading. Might keep attaching the fan to the back of the board a go though and see how the temps change.
> 
> Just use some double sided tape?.
> 
> On another note, do these fire strike benches look ok, CPU performance mostly.
> 
> Mine- http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/6471059
> 
> Beats my friends score who has a 8350 at 4.3ghz and 4.7ghz turbo which he used amd catalyst auto clock to do. His cpu scores are terrible, told him to do it through bios...
> 
> Mates - http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/6471307
> 
> Pretty sure his ram is underclocked aswell


the ram probably doesn't make a difference, but there might be some thermal or TDP throttling going on with him that's not happening to you.

or the physics might happen through GPU-compute as well. I'm not sure.

it would be better to use a benchmark that we know only tests the CPU and go from there.

ANYWAYS you don't need to buy a new CPU cooler. Your CPU is running very cool as is (50C), you don't need to even THINK about upgrading until you're hitting 63C. Save your money







you've got a great cooler
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> on the VRMs


in fact, the fact that you have a VRM cooler could be part of the reason your CPU is doing better. These CPUs take quite a lot of power his 8350 is probably running at 1.38v or something much higher than yours. This much higher voltage means the VRMs are providing a lot more power than on your board, which means his are producing a lot more heat, which means they might be throttling before yours do.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam45417*
> 
> Is that aimed towards me Mega Man ? lol. And if I was to go higher and bump up the voltage where would the best place to install the small cpu fan I have be on the vrms or at the back. ?
> 
> And to be fair the 212 keeps the cpu temps around 50c at 4.3ghz it's just the socket temps getting high.


I assure you, you don't need to worry about the socket temps, that's perfectly normal.

I hope all my posts helped dispel your fears


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do you gave any proof for the numbers your throwing out?


63C is what AMD lists on their technical sheets for the quad-modules processors. Technically you should be able to go as high as 80 considering the T_junction temp is the temperature that determines when the CPU starts physically being damaged. That is the temp that the thermometer in the CPU die is counting down towards as it warms up), but 70C is what they list for the dual-module processors. There's nothing different physically speaking at the transistor level between the dual and quad modules, so what's good for a dual aught to be good for a quad module. It was the same in the Phenom 2 days, the x2's said 70C was ok but the x4's said 63C was ok. I regularly went to 67C+ without issue.

You can track down the technical sheets with google yourself if you want.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam45417*
> 
> Is that aimed towards me Mega Man ? lol. And if I was to go higher and bump up the voltage where would the best place to install the small cpu fan I have be on the vrms or at the back. ?
> 
> And to be fair the 212 keeps the cpu temps around 50c at 4.3ghz it's just the socket temps getting high.


No it was not
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Do you gave any proof for the numbers your throwing out?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 63C is what AMD lists on their technical sheets for the quad-modules processors. Technically you should be able to go as high as 80 considering the T_junction temp is the temperature that determines when the CPU starts physically being damaged. That is the temp that the thermometer in the CPU die is counting down towards as it warms up), but 70C is what they list for the dual-module processors. There's nothing different physically speaking at the transistor level between the dual and quad modules, so what's good for a dual aught to be good for a quad module. It was the same in the Phenom 2 days, the x2's said 70C was ok but the x4's said 63C was ok. I regularly went to 67C+ without issue.
> 
> You can track down the technical sheets with google yourself if you want.
Click to expand...

Yes I am asking you. I have " tracked them down " they don't exist.
The only proof which in and of itself is weak. Is AOL which shows thermal margin

However I know you are incorrect as I have taken my cpu to thermal shutdown ( iirc 92c ) several times and exceeded 80c many more when benching. And no "imeadiate damage" did happen.

I understand that it is not guaranteed to damage it when you exceed that temp. But I have for hours on end. And again. No damage what so ever.

Now they do have one for the 81xx but alas that chip is not the 83xx. However even in that it stays the max temp is 61c. Not 63c.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> No it was not
> Yes I am asking you. I have " tracked them down " they don't exist.
> The only proof which in and of itself is weak. Is AOL which shows thermal margin
> 
> However I know you are incorrect as I have taken my cpu to thermal shutdown ( iirc 92c ) several times and exceeded 80c many more when benching. And no "imeadiate damage" did happen.
> 
> I understand that it is not guaranteed to damage it when you exceed that temp. But I have for hours on end. And again. No damage what so ever.
> 
> Now they do have one for the 81xx but alas that chip is not the 83xx. However even in that it stays the max temp is 61c. Not 63c.


obviously you haven't looked hard enough because I've read the sheets myself on at least two occasions. And no it's not 'thermal margin'

and who ever said the damage would be immediately visible? the capacitance between the gate and channel drops only gradually as the electrons become embedded in the dielectric. Since you seem to know so much, why don't you explain to me exactly how this process occurs? And while you're at it why don't you go ahead and show me your understanding of the differential equations that govern the electron probability density function for the bulk-silicon lattice to silicon dioxide insulation layer. Additionally, adhesives weakening would not lead to immediate failure, like you said. You could drive a brand new engine in second gear on the highway and it would be fine for 50k miles. That's what we're talking about here, and "it still works" means nothing.

You prove to me that the gate-channel capacitance hasn't dropped, and I'll show you the technical sheets.

I shouldn't have to work this hard to convince you. It's more efficient for you to trust me. I'm peacing out. The veracity of my claims stands regardless of your acceptance of them.


----------



## DigDeep

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adam45417*
> 
> Thanks for the reply's, I don't really want to buy a new cooler prob just get a better one next time im upgrading. Might keep attaching the fan to the back of the board a go though and see how the temps change.
> 
> Just use some double sided tape?.
> 
> On another note, do these fire strike benches look ok, CPU performance mostly.
> 
> Mine- http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/6471059
> 
> Beats my friends score who has a 8350 at 4.3ghz and 4.7ghz turbo which he used amd catalyst auto clock to do. His cpu scores are terrible, told him to do it through bios...
> 
> Mates - http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/6471307
> 
> Pretty sure his ram is underclocked aswell


Maybe your friends cpu only half turbos, he should check cpu frequency during the test. Your cpu will have 4200mhz on all cores, friends cpu could have it only on 4 cores.
I remember when I ran Prime 95 on stock 8320, and max cpu frequency was 3.700mhz. and not 4ghz, and It would throttle to 2900 mhz until I enabled HPC.

Thats why I always recommend to people who uses FX cpus, to disable turbo then restart and set cpu frequency to whatever they want to, that way they will have all cores on max all the time, and will not suffer from half or full turbo load. That way you can lower cpu voltage too, I have it on 1.272v for 4ghz. To increase performance even more, its good to increase NB clock from 2200 to 2400 and to set memory from CR2 to CR1. ( increase from 2400 to 2600mhz didnt have a lot improvement, same is for HT)

I hope this will help your friend.

..____ increasing NB clock from 2200 to 2400mhz can disable AERO on windows 7..... Why that happens I dont have a clue


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> obviously you haven't looked hard enough because I've read the sheets myself on at least two occasions. And no it's not 'thermal margin'
> 
> and who ever said the damage would be immediately visible? the capacitance between the gate and channel drops only gradually as the electrons become embedded in the dielectric. Since you seem to know so much, why don't you explain to me exactly how this process occurs? And while you're at it why don't you go ahead and show me your understanding of the differential equations that govern the electron probability density function for the bulk-silicon lattice to silicon dioxide insulation layer. Additionally, adhesives weakening would not lead to immediate failure, like you said. You could drive a brand new engine in second gear on the highway and it would be fine for 50k miles. That's what we're talking about here, and "it still works" means nothing.
> 
> You prove to me that the gate-channel capacitance hasn't dropped, and I'll show you the technical sheets.
> 
> I shouldn't have to work this hard to convince you. It's more efficient for you to trust me. I'm peacing out. The veracity of my claims stands regardless of your acceptance of them.


Trust is not to be given so freely. At least you've seen these documents twice already, meaning it would be more efficient for you to find them compared to someone else. If you are not so wiling I don't see how someone else would be. Your claims stand unproven until they are proven. If you've never shared these documents, then no one has seen the proof. If you even once shared the actual source then it would be easy for you to look back on your history of posts on the web and find them. If you can't convince some people as you don't want to go find proof, then you'll accept the fact some people will take your claims and even other posts with a grain of salt.


----------



## TheLandstander

An update on my weird setup and a question:

For those that remember, I was running 17.5x236 for 4.1ghz and stock voltage because of socket temperatures that I've been to lazy to deal with.
I've also been running a 19.5x turbo which gave me 4366mhz and 4602mhz in full/half turbo.

After reading some more I realized the fsb limitation I was running into was my RAM being power starved and that was only because I was keeping the CPU/NB voltage at stock.
I have since adjusted my CPU/NB voltage to mild +0.025 (1.225v).

Assuming faster memory=better performance I've reset everything: RAM=1944mhz, CPU=17x243 still for 4.1ghz and 19x turbo for 4.6ghz. The real bump to this is now the full turbo which engages more frequently than half turbo but can't be set in BIOS. That's now 4.5ghz. Another plus is my CPU/NB & HT Link are now running at the same speed.

Temperatures are still cool, and everything is looking stable.

My question: In the guide it is mentioned that raising the VDDA voltage 'improves system performance'. Are we talking higher overclocks, or does it actually provide better performance at the same CPU clock speed in some way? I've always had mine set to stock voltage.


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> An update on my weird setup and a question:
> 
> For those that remember, I was running 17.5x236 for 4.1ghz and stock voltage because of socket temperatures that I've been to lazy to deal with.
> I've also been running a 19.5x turbo which gave me 4366mhz and 4602mhz in full/half turbo.
> 
> After reading some more I realized the fsb limitation I was running into was my RAM being power starved and that was only because I was keeping the CPU/NB voltage at stock.
> I have since adjusted my CPU/NB voltage to mild +0.025 (1.225v).
> 
> Assuming faster memory=better performance I've reset everything: RAM=1944mhz, CPU=17x243 still for 4.1ghz and 19x turbo for 4.6ghz. The real bump to this is now the full turbo which engages more frequently than half turbo but can't be set in BIOS. That's now 4.5ghz. Another plus is my CPU/NB & HT Link are now running at the same speed.
> 
> Temperatures are still cool, and everything is looking stable.
> 
> My question: In the guide it is mentioned that raising the VDDA voltage 'improves system performance'. Are we talking higher overclocks, or does it actually provide better performance at the same CPU clock speed in some way? I've always had mine set to stock voltage.


I think what they mean is it provides more stability for the system/Higher OCs. At least that's what I've read in a few other AMD FX OCing guides. Don't think its a direct relation to performance.


----------



## TheLandstander

Yeah, that's what I figured, but with stuff like HT Link, I wondered if maybe there was something else going on there.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> My question: In the guide it is mentioned that raising the VDDA voltage 'improves system performance'. Are we talking higher overclocks, or does it actually provide better performance at the same CPU clock speed in some way? I've always had mine set to stock voltage.


Asus mobo's tend to over volt CPU VDDA voltage just a touch on auto as a rule. Auto will work fine in most cases.
On a Gigabyte mobo I've read they benefit from additional VDDA voltage.

I've played with my CPU VDDA a lot and it runs a 5017MHz OC (in sig rig) and is set at 2.524 in bios when default was 2.540. It was the same on my CHIV-F as well and that had a 4222MHz CPU OC with a CPU/NB Freq at 3211MHz.

CPU VDDA can/will help you but more as a fine tuning feature. Yes it helps just don't look for it to be that "Missing" voltage unless your OC is extreme.
To much can/will cause instability.

Easiest way to describe an example would be to look at your last run of IBT and look for a big variation in GFlops (3 to 5 maybe more) . Most runs will have some variance but you can help minimize this spread with CPU VDDA.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Does it help? Look close at the snip above and decide for yourself.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> What people don't realize is that the core( calculated temp) Is based in part off of the socket temp which is a real measurement. Now other things will affect the socket temp but one of the biggest is how well your CPU cooler does pulling the heat away from the CPU.
> 
> If you notice in this pic that the package and cpu temps are ~ 10c apart which is where they should be. I'm not using any fans I just have an exceptional water loop. My point is that the CPU cooler IS the most important part of the cooling as well as the motherboard. Better boards dissipate heat more effectively and transfer power with less heat produced. Your board Is OK for a mild OC but if you want to go higher I would suggest a better cooler or strap a fan on the back of the board and leave it where it is.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it is not 'part of the calculated temp'. In these small packages entropy is basically a hard science. Die is 55C? under the die is going to be roughly warmer than that. Right now I'm showing a socket temp of 50C, and core temp of 33C. If I open Prime95 and start a max-heat-power-consumption stress test the core temp jumps to 50C but the socket temp slowly edges up to 55C after about 5 seconds...then slowly higher after that. That's the capacitive lag of the heat transfer we're seeing. Go ahead, test it yourself. After 10 minutes it heats up a bit more than that to 68-70C or so when the CPU is at 60C.
> 
> 'the board transferring power' isn't what's creating that heat. There's some residual heat that passes through the copper power planes from the VRMs running at 100C+ but the diode temperature in the socket is because the CPU is directly top of it and is getting hot. The CPU heatsink only takes heat from the TOP of the CPU, but some of the heat radiates to the bottom of the CPU, into the air underneath it, and then convects to the diode on the motherboard. The thermal capacity of solids is much higher than gasses (air) which is why we see the socket temperature lags behind the CPU temperature
Click to expand...

Not really sure what you're going on about I didn't say anything really about the board transferring power . That "core" temp isn't a measured temp but that's still irrelevant. What I said in that post is if you can pull the heat away from the CPU you WILL lower the socket temp. If you look at that pic I was running 5.0 with a socket temp in the 30s. No fans nothing directly cooling the VRM or behind the board. That's 100% CPU cooling. SO If the poster had a better CPU cooler it will also lower the socket temps since it has greater heat transfer.


----------



## TheLandstander

I noticed today under "Recommended FSB Ranges" one of the entries is:
Quote:


> FSB - 280
> DRAM - 1866Mhz
> CPU/NB - 2520Mhz
> HTT - 2520Mhz


This is the only one on the list where the DRAM isn't clocked with an 8x multiplier. Should that actually read 2240?

Also is the 8x multiplier recommended or is faster RAM always the best way to go when available?
For example I'm running with a 243 FSB which is 1944, but the next setting up may be within reach.

I know the CPU/NB and HTT at the same speed is preferred for performance, but I don't know about the 8x on the DRAM.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Not really sure what you're going on about *I didn't say anything really about the board transferring power .*


yeah you did, right here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Better boards dissipate heat more effectively *and transfer power with less heat produced.*


It's important, and the reason I brought this up is: the socket temp is not affected very much by the board transferring power. If it were, you'd be losing significant voltage to the resistive properties of the board for the same reason that a lighbulb heats up.
Quote:


> That "core" temp isn't a measured temp but that's still irrelevant.


no, you're wrong. yes, it is a measured temp. It uses the characteristics of the I-V curve in silicon diodes to arrive at the solution for temperature, going backwards from a known current to get the bias voltage, which varies with temperature. It's actually extremely accurate.
Quote:


> What I said in that post is if you can pull the heat away from the CPU you WILL lower the socket temp. If you look at that pic I was running 5.0 with a socket temp in the 30s. No fans nothing directly cooling the VRM or behind the board. That's 100% CPU cooling. SO If the poster had a better CPU cooler it will also lower the socket temps since it has greater heat transfer.


this is true, yes.
But I will repeat myself from other posts-- he doesn't need to worry about the socket temp.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> *Trust is not to be given so freely.* At least you've seen these documents twice already, meaning it would be more efficient for you to find them compared to someone else. If you are not so wiling I don't see how someone else would be. Your claims stand unproven until they are proven. If you've never shared these documents, then no one has seen the proof. If you even once shared the actual source then it would be easy for you to look back on your history of posts on the web and find them. If you can't convince some people as you don't want to go find proof, then you'll accept the fact some people will take your claims and even other posts with a grain of salt.


ok that's your loss. I've already shown in previous posts to yours that I am able to explain much more about the details of transistors on the physics level than you. If you don't want to trust me and google more that's fine. I'm too lazy to bother tracking them down again. My time is worth more than that


----------



## Mega Man

" trust me ~ i am an engineer "


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I noticed today under "Recommended FSB Ranges" one of the entries is:
> This is the only one on the list where the DRAM isn't clocked with an 8x multiplier. Should that actually read 2240?
> 
> Also is the 8x multiplier recommended or is faster RAM always the best way to go when available?
> For example I'm running with a 243 FSB which is 1944, but the next setting up may be within reach.
> 
> I know the CPU/NB and HTT at the same speed is preferred for performance, but I don't know about the 8x on the DRAM.


it's good to hit even (as in, rounded off, not as in 'not odd') numbers on the RAM multiplier. Doing that is all that really matters. Both of those speeds are pretty good, obviously 2240 would be 'better' but you're not really going to see much difference (1-2%) in the majority of applications. Media encoding, you might see 5% between the two.

most people don't worry about RAM speeds too much. Easier to just overclock the processor another 50mhz and call it a day.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> " trust me ~ i am an engineer "


I already explained all the details if he wants to disagree he needs to look them up and prove me wrong but he can't be bothered to so. I don't see why I should go do his google work for him. At any rate, he trusts the PC he types on I don't see why it's such a big deal to believe me when I say he didn't google hard enough.


----------



## Mega Man

missing the point

if you were willing ot help we would listen, so far all i have heard is " i know more then you"

prove me wrong

first case in point, these "white papers" for the 83xx series should be easy as i have said i nor ANY ONE i know has seen them no one has seen an "official" max thermal temp from amd, barring AOD thermal margin


----------



## drSeehas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> ... AOD ...


I am new, what is "AOD" in this case?


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

AOD = AMD Overdrive


----------



## Mega Man

amd over drive


----------



## drSeehas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> AOD = AMD Overdrive


Thanks.
I'll add it to wikipedia.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> it's good to hit even (as in, rounded off, not as in 'not odd') numbers on the RAM multiplier. Doing that is all that really matters.


I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by that. How could you do unrounded multipliers?


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I'm afraid I don't understand what you mean by that. How could you do unrounded multipliers?


I think what he means is to avoid the RAM multipliers that are not rounded off aka 5.33x (1066mhz) 6.66x(1333mhz) 9.33x(1866mhz) 10.66x(2133mhz).

4x(800mhz) 8x(1600mhz) 12x(2400mhz) would be RAM multipliers with rounded numbers


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> [
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> That "core" temp isn't a measured temp but that's still irrelevant.
> 
> 
> 
> no, you're wrong. yes, it is a measured temp. It uses the characteristics of the I-V curve in silicon diodes to arrive at the solution for temperature, going backwards from a known current to get the bias voltage, which varies with temperature. It's actually extremely accurate.
Click to expand...

Measure : ascertain the size, amount, or degree of (something) by using an instrument or device marked in standard units

diode modelling refers to the mathematical models used to *approximate* the actual behavior of real diodes to enable calculations and circuit analysis.
No matter how accurate it is it's not a measurement but a calculation.

It's all semantics. Picking at someones post like that really does nothing to help anyone in the end.


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> I think what he means is to avoid the RAM multipliers that are not rounded off aka 5.33x (1066mhz) 6.66x(1333mhz) 9.33x(1866mhz) 10.66x(2133mhz).
> 
> 4x(800mhz) 8x(1600mhz) 12x(2400mhz) would be RAM multipliers with rounded numbers


Thanks. Didn't know there were fractional multipliers. I never sat and did the math.

Edit: It still throws me. AMD always used to get better overclock performance at colder temperatures megahertz for megahertz by moving the FSB instead of the multiplier.

It's apparently no longer true.


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Thanks. Didn't know there were fractional multipliers. I never sat and did the math.


No problem. Sometimes motherboard/BIOS makes it easier by showing the actual multipliers. Sometimes they ust show the speed and we have to figure out the multipliers. Not sure it matters rounded vs unrounded.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> I think what he means is to avoid the RAM multipliers that are not rounded off aka 5.33x (1066mhz) 6.66x(1333mhz) 9.33x(1866mhz) 10.66x(2133mhz).
> 
> 4x(800mhz) 8x(1600mhz) 12x(2400mhz) would be RAM multipliers with rounded numbers


yeah.

I don't know for certain if that actually matters these days, just conventional wisdom; but it's not hard to stick to it.

conventional wisdom was to avoid un-rounded CPU multipliers too, and AMD and Intel both diverged. This one is harder to stick with when overclocking.


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Measure : ascertain the size, amount, or degree of (something) by using an instrument or device marked in standard units
> 
> diode modelling refers to the mathematical models used to *approximate* the actual behavior of real diodes to enable calculations and circuit analysis.
> *No matter how accurate it is it's not a measurement but a calculation.*
> 
> It's all semantics. Picking at someones post like that really does nothing to help anyone in the end.


considering the bias voltage is a measurement, that makes you 100% wrong.

2*2 is a calculation, yet every time we end up with 4.

If you want to stick you head in the sand be my guest. The thermal calculations are public knowledge, 100% vetted, and 100% accurate thanks to the doping precision of silicon these days.

I'm sorry but the burden of proof to disprove is on you. Intel and AMD have been using these simple undergraduate-level formulas for protecting their chips from damage for decades now. If you can't be bothered to do the simple math to show that electrical engineers have been wrong for 35 years, why are you bothering arguing on the internet?


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Thanks. Didn't know there were fractional multipliers. I never sat and did the math.
> 
> Edit: It still throws me. AMD always used to get better overclock performance at colder temperatures megahertz for megahertz by moving the FSB instead of the multiplier.
> 
> It's apparently no longer true.


the latency is usually always better with a faster bus, though the difference is minimal.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Measure : ascertain the size, amount, or degree of (something) by using an instrument or device marked in standard units
> 
> diode modelling refers to the mathematical models used to *approximate* the actual behavior of real diodes to enable calculations and circuit analysis.
> *No matter how accurate it is it's not a measurement but a calculation.*
> 
> It's all semantics. Picking at someones post like that really does nothing to help anyone in the end.
> 
> 
> 
> considering the bias voltage is a measurement, that makes you 100% wrong.
> 
> 2*2 is a calculation, yet every time we end up with 4.
> 
> If you want to stick you head in the sand be my guest. The thermal calculations are public knowledge, 100% vetted, and 100% accurate thanks to the doping precision of silicon these days.
> 
> I'm sorry but the burden of proof to disprove is on you. Intel and AMD have been using these simple undergraduate-level formulas for protecting their chips from damage for decades now. If you can't be bothered to do the simple math to show that electrical engineers have been wrong for 35 years, why are you bothering arguing on the internet?
Click to expand...

One temp is read from a diode and one is calculated. As for all this BS it's absolutely irrelevant and won't help anyone

Taken from http://support.amd.com/TechDocs/49125_15h_Models_30h-3Fh_BKDG.pdf

49125 Rev 3.06 - February 10, 2015
BKDG for AMD Family 15h Models 30h-3Fh Processors
145
2.10 Thermal Functions
Thermal functions HTC, PROCHOT_L and THERMTRIP are
intended to maintain processor temperature in a valid range by:
• Providing a signal to external circuitry for system thermal management like fan control.
• Lowering power consumption by switching to lower-performance P-state.
• Sending processor to the THERMTRIP state to prevent it from damage.
The processor thermal-related circuitry includes (1) the temperature calculation circuit (TCC) for determining
the temperature of the processor and (2) logic that uses the temperature from the TCC

2.10.3 Temperature-Driven Logic
The temperature calculated by the TCC is used by HTC,THERMTRIP, and PROCHOT_L


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> One temp is read from a diode and one is calculated. As for all this BS it's absolutely irrelevant and won't help anyone
> 
> Taken from http://support.amd.com/TechDocs/49125_15h_Models_30h-3Fh_BKDG.pdf
> 
> 49125 Rev 3.06 - February 10, 2015
> BKDG for AMD Family 15h Models 30h-3Fh Processors
> 145
> 2.10 Thermal Functions
> Thermal functions HTC, PROCHOT_L and THERMTRIP are
> intended to maintain processor temperature in a valid range by:
> • Providing a signal to external circuitry for system thermal management like fan control.
> • Lowering power consumption by switching to lower-performance P-state.
> • Sending processor to the THERMTRIP state to prevent it from damage.
> The processor thermal-related circuitry includes (1) the temperature calculation circuit (TCC) for determining
> the temperature of the processor and (2) logic that uses the temperature from the TCC
> 
> 2.10.3 Temperature-Driven Logic
> The temperature calculated by the TCC is used by HTC,THERMTRIP, and PROCHOT_L


you're mis-interpreting that. It's still based on a measurement. That's why it's guaranteed accurate. They don't just pull the number out of thin silicon.


----------



## Johan45

AMD themselves say that's it's not accurate until the system is under load at around 45c. I understand what you're saying and maybe we're focused on the wrong words. I just don't see a measurement being the same as a calculation. Even simplified if you know a measured velocity you can use it to calculate distance over time. It may be accurate but it's still not a measurement.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> you're mis-interpreting that. It's still based on a measurement. That's why it's guaranteed accurate. They don't just pull the number out of thin silicon.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> considering the bias voltage is a measurement, that makes you 100% wrong.
> 
> 2*2 is a calculation, yet every time we end up with 4.
> 
> If you want to stick you head in the sand be my guest. The thermal calculations are public knowledge, 100% vetted, and 100% accurate thanks to the doping precision of silicon these days.
> 
> I'm sorry but the burden of proof to disprove is on you. Intel and AMD have been using these simple undergraduate-level formulas for protecting their chips from damage for decades now. If you can't be bothered to do the simple math to show that electrical engineers have been wrong for 35 years, why are you bothering arguing on the internet?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> ok that's your loss. I've already shown in previous posts to yours that I am able to explain much more about the details of transistors on the physics level than you. If you don't want to trust me and google more that's fine. I'm too lazy to bother tracking them down again. My time is worth more than that


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> obviously you haven't looked hard enough because I've read the sheets myself on at least two occasions. And no it's not 'thermal margin'
> 
> and who ever said the damage would be immediately visible? the capacitance between the gate and channel drops only gradually as the electrons become embedded in the dielectric. Since you seem to know so much, why don't you explain to me exactly how this process occurs? And while you're at it why don't you go ahead and show me your understanding of the differential equations that govern the electron probability density function for the bulk-silicon lattice to silicon dioxide insulation layer. Additionally, adhesives weakening would not lead to immediate failure, like you said. You could drive a brand new engine in second gear on the highway and it would be fine for 50k miles. That's what we're talking about here, and "it still works" means nothing.
> 
> You prove to me that the gate-channel capacitance hasn't dropped, and I'll show you the technical sheets.
> 
> I shouldn't have to work this hard to convince you. It's more efficient for you to trust me. I'm peacing out. The veracity of my claims stands regardless of your acceptance of them.


Wow, all this in just the last few pages or so? Seriously?
So much to share, to bad it contains so little help to anyone.

If I had made 124 posts with seemingly this much knowledge and only earned one flame I'd have to ask myself what I was doing wrong, but that's me. I'm here to help others.
I'm with Mega on this one, too much time spent on telling others "i know more then you, prove me wrong" and with xKrNMBoYx on his reply http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/3360#post_23751728


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Wow, all this in just the last few pages or so? Seriously?
> So much to share, to bad it contains so little help to anyone.
> 
> If I had made 124 posts with seemingly this much knowledge and only earned one flame I'd have to ask myself what I was doing wrong, but that's me. I'm here to help others.
> I'm with Mega on this one, too much time spent on telling others "i know more then you, prove me wrong" and with xKrNMBoYx on his reply http://www.overclock.net/t/1348623/amd-bulldozer-and-piledriver-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboard/3360#post_23751728


so what we have here is you sticking your head in the sand because you don't like what I'm saying, yet not offering any proof or alternative theories that are grouded in anything besides what you're making up. Meanwhile I give you the information you need to see for yourself what I'm talking about, but you won't look into it.

and somehow that makes me wrong?

stick your head in the sand all you want, the measurement is taken from the voltage bias and used to solve the equations I already linked


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

It's been too long since whatever the argument was about but from memory it was about something that has yet been proved period as nothing from AMD was found. Probably why people don't want to listen to you and the 'information we need' but as we haven't found proof we can't show you either. Until one side finds proof nothing is for sure and anyone standing on one side 100% is a bit hardheaded. I don't think the equations on Wikipedia (which anyone can edit whether right or wrong) was what we were expecting. Technical sheets from AMD(?) is what we heard which would be more credible.


----------



## torchy

All this thanks to your guide, tho I started with FSB and after slightly increased ratio.
For cooling I use a corsair h100i closed loop and 6 additional 120 fans, 3 intake, 3 outtake. 2 intakes blowing the MoBo


----------



## Johan45

Nice work torchy


----------



## TheLandstander

I realized today that my recent reclocking included a bump to the memory speed. Typically I'll run MemTest+ at the new speed to make sure everything is fine there first... but I'd forgotten (I did run Prime95 though).

So today I fired up MemTest+ 5.01 and saw something I don't understand.

My RAM is G.Skill RipJaws X 2x4gb @ 1866mhz. With the clock bump it is running (243x8)=1944mhz.

The thing is MemTest is reporting that I'm running a 896mhz (bus?) & 1792mhz for the RAM. I'm not sure what the first number is, or why the other number is low (it is reporting the 1866 number and CL for the memory properly where it shows sticks installed farther down).

To my knowledge the Turbo mode on these chips only effects CPU multiplier and not the RAM in any way, so I'm at a loss as to why the speed wouldn't report correctly.
Thoughts?


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> It's been too long since whatever the argument was about but from memory it was about something that has yet been proved period as nothing from AMD was found. Probably why people don't want to listen to you and the 'information we need' but as we haven't found proof we can't show you either. Until one side finds proof nothing is for sure and anyone standing on one side 100% is a bit hardheaded. I don't think the equations on Wikipedia (which anyone can edit whether right or wrong) was what we were expecting. Technical sheets from AMD(?) is what we heard which would be more credible.


you can follow the source yourself on wikipedia. nobody modified them. you can also search elsewhere and find the same equation in hundreds of lectures given to engineers studying semiconductor fundamentals classes.

people argue about history, politics, religion on wikipedia. not math and physics that's common knowledge


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soccerballtux*
> 
> you can follow the source yourself on wikipedia. nobody modified them. you can also search elsewhere and find the same equation in hundreds of lectures given to engineers studying semiconductor fundamentals classes.
> 
> people argue about history, politics, religion on wikipedia. not math and physics that's common knowledge


We're talking about AMD products so what I like and believe are facts and sources/numbers from AMD. Don't care if the smartest person in the world posted those equations. Bulldozer had a official tech sheet with temp info. Piledriver doesn't.


----------



## klepp0906

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crastakippers*
> 
> I have upped the nb-cpu to 1.25v. I also needed to up the cpu to 1.525v to be able to run for one hour prime custom blend using 12Gb. Max temp on the Core hit 64c at one point but mainly stayed at 60c, socket max was 62c. I will run this blend test toinight and if it lasts > 6 hours I might call it done and start clocking my memory or GPU.
> 
> Thanks again everyone.


6 hours unfortunately is only enough to get through < half the tests. To each their own however.


----------



## crastakippers

^^
You really should put the date in the quote or enquire how things are now if your honestly interested ..., that is when your qouting old stuff. But to each their own. lol

I'm trying to be funny btw, I do realise your trying to help.


----------



## kellexan

I am having issues at 225+ bus frequency, I get random freezes. I have tired raising the voltage and gotten all the way to 1.55 and still experience them. By now I have reset my bios 3 times and followed this guide however I am still having issues with getting at least 4.5 ghz.

If anyone still watches this thread can I have some assistance?

AMD FX-8350
Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC version
M5A99FX PRO R2.0
32 gb of ddr3 1600 mhz ram
Hyper 212 Evo cooler
Corsair CW 750w


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xKrNMBoYx*
> 
> We're talking about AMD products so what I like and believe are facts and sources/numbers from AMD. Don't care if the smartest person in the world posted those equations. Bulldozer had a official tech sheet with temp info. Piledriver doesn't.


I think I found one one time that had some dual module Vishera.

there's really no reason to think if you follow BD's specs, that PD won't be ok


----------



## soccerballtux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kellexan*
> 
> I am having issues at 225+ bus frequency, I get random freezes. I have tired raising the voltage and gotten all the way to 1.55 and still experience them. By now I have reset my bios 3 times and followed this guide however I am still having issues with getting at least 4.5 ghz.
> 
> If anyone still watches this thread can I have some assistance?
> 
> AMD FX-8350
> Sapphire R9 290 Tri-X OC version
> M5A99FX PRO R2.0
> 32 gb of ddr3 1600 mhz ram
> Hyper 212 Evo cooler
> Corsair CW 750w


you might need to up the northbridge or southbridge. I don't recall which. Do both +0.1v, leave the CPU at 1.55v, and see if you can hit 4.5ghz. +0.1v should be all you need-- if you break through, you'll know that's what it was.

also check that your RAM isn't running out of spec/faster than 1600mhz at these higher bus speeds


----------



## kellexan

when i up the bus frequency the mhz for the ram goes up to around 1800? so do I need to lower it? there is no 1600 mhz option after putting the bus frequency higher.


----------



## Mega Man

first southbridge needs nothing,

NB may need a bump, but if you already followed this guide, you already did that,

second, odds are you are freezing due to temps, the 212 cant handle voltage that high. 4.3-4.4 is generally the average with that cooler can handle, we have seen some of the newer chips do a little better

that cooler simply cant handle the temp spikes, and it does spike far to fast for even a monitoring program to see it.

third, i do not recommend fsb for you till you understand multi.

fsb ( technically HT ref ) affect far more then just your clock. it also does CPU/nb and ram speeds,
so there is no longer 1600 ( 200 fsb x 8 ( memory multi ) )
it is now 225x8 .... ect

you may need to lower other things to get it stable

speaking of another person-- he who not be named-

any one else see that post where he just stated he has not seen the white pages he just insisted he has, he then backtracked to say vish are the same as BD hahahahahahaha


----------



## Johan45

Gee whiz imagine that.


----------



## TheLandstander

I was checking my BIOS for something and noticed when I recently reclocked my system, for some reason I set my HTLink-CPU/NB speeds to the same as my RAM=1944.

I can't figure out if that was a screw up or what I burn tested at. I swore they were higher.
So I've reset them to both be 2430mhz (which is a 10x multiplier).

How much testing does that require? Do I need to 24 hr burn test again for the HTLink-CPU/NB or does it either run or not run?
My system has Turbo enabled, do I need to turn that off and test it the base speed, or my final settings... or does it not matter?

I'm a bit confused what my next step is.


----------



## Mega Man

I would recommend stressing. Cpu/nb is your imc


----------



## TheLandstander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I would recommend stressing. Cpu/nb is your imc


Imc? I don't know what that means.

Do you think with Turbo enabled (and energy saving stuff) it's okay to test or should I disable all of that? Does the speed of the CPU (as in base is 4.1ghz but turbo 4.6ghz) have an effect on the Cpu/nb&HTLink?

Is any particular Prime95 setting better for stressing this portion? (Small fft or blend with 75% RAM, etc)


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Imc? I don't know what that means.
> 
> Do you think with Turbo enabled (and energy saving stuff) it's okay to test or should I disable all of that? Does the speed of the CPU (as in base is 4.1ghz but turbo 4.6ghz) have an effect on the Cpu/nb&HTLink?
> 
> Is any particular Prime95 setting better for stressing this portion? (Small fft or blend with 75% RAM, etc)


IMC = Integrated memory controller located within the CPU. Adjust using CPU/NB voltage to control NB Freq.
Always stress with power saving features disabled. You can enable them when finished stressing.
I'd run P95 Blend again but I'm a stickler on stability. I also run 20 runs of IBT AVX version set to maximum before running prime, again this is just me.

HT = 2600MHz
NB = 2200MHz for stock settings.


----------



## TheLandstander

I've seen the IBT mentioned with AVX in a few places... what IS the AVX version? Googling I can't find something with that name.

Edit: Btw, the guide recommends running HT and NB at the same speed for better results. Assuming the NB can handle >2400mhz it should be better (maybe?).
Wouldn't 2430mhz all be better?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> I've seen the IBT mentioned with AVX in a few places... what IS the AVX version? Googling I can't find something with that name.
> 
> Edit: Btw, the guide recommends running HT and NB at the same speed for better results. Assuming the NB can handle >2400mhz it should be better (maybe?).
> Wouldn't 2430mhz all be better?


You'll find the AVX version here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
Watch your temps!

I have yet to see any actual proof that running them (HT/NB) the same is a benefit. Additional NB does improve things but IMHO not enough to warrant the added voltage it may take. Been there and done that one. My 8350 at 4822MHz could run a 2700 NB but not this 9590 at 5117MHz. At least not yet









Why under clock the HT?
Leave HT higher and yes add in more NB it does help especially in benchmarks but for everyday use and working up to a "new" goal it would be wiser to make small changes and test (shorter test lengths) to make things easier as you raise the OC. I run my HT 2660 and NB 2470MHz currently. I've had the NB freq just over 2700MHz, the results definitely show in benchmarks.


----------



## Mega Man

I agree running them both at the same is useless. There is no proof and people have spouted it since bull dozer


----------



## TheLandstander

Thanks, I'll bump the HT and try again.

And... wow, IBT really turns on the heat. Almost 4 degrees hotter socket then even Prime95 can crank out. I wouldn't have thought that possible.
Pulled the side off my case for now since nothing real world could ever possibly hit those temps.

So the AVX isn't a special fork or anything, just the newest version number. Got it.


----------



## The Sandman

Definitely a special fork all right. Places a lot more load on system.
Check out the difference in temps/Gflops between the two versions!


----------



## TheLandstander

But we are talking about the AgentGod version, right? https://www.xgamingstudio.com/forum/showthread.php?9-RELEASE-IntelBurnTest-v2-54
Seems to be identical.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheLandstander*
> 
> Thanks, I'll bump the HT and try again.
> 
> And... wow, IBT really turns on the heat. Almost 4 degrees hotter socket then even Prime95 can crank out. I wouldn't have thought that possible.
> Pulled the side off my case for now since nothing real world could ever possibly hit those temps.
> 
> So the AVX isn't a special fork or anything, just the newest version number. Got it.


not complaining just letting you know. Prime will get hotter but you don't let it go long enough


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

I powered on my A8-5600K and figured I would try overclocking it. I'm a little confused on the temp sensors.

In my BIOS I have an alarm set for when the CPU hits 60C -- yes, the alarm system and speaker does work









When I'm running prime95 on all four cores one of the temps goes to 75C..I'm not sure if this temp/sensor is accurate though.

Which one of these temps is actually my cpu temp?

This is when Prime95 is running:


EDIT: Hm, seems like I'm totally in the wrong thread here


----------



## Mega Man

It is np. Cpu (first) should be socket and cpu 0 is core.

I am going from memory however (as I lie in bee )


----------



## Mr.N00bLaR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> It is np. Cpu (first) should be socket and cpu 0 is core.
> 
> I am going from memory however (as I lie in bee )


So the cou load temp is actually 43C. Any idea what the package temps are a measure of?


----------



## TheLandstander

I recently built an A8 system for my dad. I noticed a lot of the temperature reporting apps didn't properly work with it. Many were just plain wrong and I think only one meaningful temp is actually reported by HWMonitor. (One sensorreported temperatures in excess of 100 degrees Celsius under load.)

Expect around low to mid 60's non-overclocked with stock cooling. I believe 72 degree is the maximum for that CPU.
I believe only socket temp is reported because you have both CPU and GPU on the same die.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I agree running them both at the same is useless. There is no proof and people have spouted it since bull dozer


You can say that again. Only testing tells you where your chip performs the best.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr.N00bLaR*
> 
> So the cou load temp is actually 43C. Any idea what the package temps are a measure of?


On my CHV-Z HWInfo64 reports Package temp identical to Core temp. Not saying it's this way for you.
I'd recommend trying AMD's AOD http://www.amd.com/en-us/markets/game/downloads and use it simply to compare/identify what values are what.
It displays a "Thermal Margin" which is how much you have left to go with CPU Core temps.


----------



## BranField

hi everyone.

I used this guide in the past to oc my 8350 when i was on my h100i, got to 4.7ghz @ 1.38vcore. i have since moved over to custom loop. yesterday i attempted to push the oc a little higher to 4.9ghz. i kept getting freezing so i increased the vcore in 2 incremental steps per stability test freeze. once it stopped freezing i got a core stop using occt stress test so i upped the vcore a little more again. now comes this issue that is confusing me, i keep getting random frequency drops down to 1.4ghz, just for a second and then back up again during stressing. i upped the vcore a couple more times, testing inbetween each step but it just kept happening so i reverted back to my stable 4.7ghz.

Anyone have any idea what could be causing the frequency drops, i dont think its temps at all. after looking at the graphs occt puts out it looks like a freq drop coincided with a drop in vcore. but im not sure if that is a cause or a result of the freq drop.

Here are the OCCT outputs from the testing yesterday, if someone could take a look it may explain things a little better than i can.

EDIT - removed zip file and adding graphs as pics.


----------



## Koykis

Hello people, i've been reading in the forums for some time now but never felt the need to write. I guess this is the time.

I have an FX9590 on a Sabertooth 990FX R2.0, cooled by a CoolerMaster Nepton 280L with noiseblocker fans. I experience freezes during gaming, so I went and followed this guide to set the cpu running on a stable clock speed, in case some auto setting was messing with it. After setting the cpu at 4.7GHz i ran prime95 and the computer shut down at 90 degrees after 3 or so minutes. It was kinda shocking so i set the uefi to the default config and tried running prime again. The cpu sits at about 62 degrees with a socket temp of 75 to 80 at 100% load with the default settings.
Is it the luck of the draw? Bad silicon? Should i swap the cpu for something slower?

P.S. The case is the H440,loaded with fans and cleaned regularly.


----------



## miklkit

There is something wrong with your cooling as you should be seeing 50-55C @ 4.7.


----------



## Agent Smith1984

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> There is something wrong with your cooling as you should be seeing 50-55C @ 4.7.


I actually won't even offer up any other suggestion here. milk is absolutely correct.

I am seeing temps similar to yours at 4.9GHz on an ASRock board with a LEPA 240mm AIO
I have never seen a Saber hit that high of a socket temp, even with a higher core temp than yours.


----------



## Koykis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agent Smith1984*
> 
> I actually won't even offer up any other suggestion here. milk is absolutely correct.
> 
> I am seeing temps similar to yours at 4.9GHz on an ASRock board with a LEPA 240mm AIO
> I have never seen a Saber hit that high of a socket temp, even with a higher core temp than yours.


I'm getting officially worried now...







So you guys suggest that there's something wrong with the airflow or with the AIO cooler?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> hi everyone.
> 
> I used this guide in the past to oc my 8350 when i was on my h100i, got to 4.7ghz @ 1.38vcore. i have since moved over to custom loop. yesterday i attempted to push the oc a little higher to 4.9ghz. i kept getting freezing so i increased the vcore in 2 incremental steps per stability test freeze. once it stopped freezing i got a core stop using occt stress test so i upped the vcore a little more again. now comes this issue that is confusing me, i keep getting random frequency drops down to 1.4ghz, just for a second and then back up again during stressing. i upped the vcore a couple more times, testing inbetween each step but it just kept happening so i reverted back to my stable 4.7ghz.


Have you tried running IBT AVX version at 4.7GHz? http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
If you can pass 20 runs on Very High some might call this gaming stable. I always pass 20 runs on maximum and than go for a 24 Prime95 run.
It's been a long time since I've run OCCT as it's fairly weak as far as stress tests go.

Freezing is usually a sign of a lack of Dram voltage or CPU/NB voltage, sometimes even a combination of the two.
You'll also need to play with Digi+ settings as you go. Especially with a higher clock.

Something to realize, some 8350's can do 4.9 others have a hard time stabilizing 4.8Ghz. Others can't get past 4.7GHz (stable).
Jumping from 4.7 to 4.9 is going to take some time if you're looking for stability. I never did my 8350 higher than 4822MHz @1.512v and have it 24 hr Prime95 stable.

Do you have active cooling on your VRM's?

I'd start back at 4.7 and check stability with IBT. Once you have that than move ahead and watch dram and cpu/nb voltages rather than just increase vcore.
At this level you'll be amazed how small of a voltage change can impact your OC. Think baby steps.

It might be helpful if we could see some bios snips to see where your at (F12 with a thumb drive in USB2.0 port).


----------



## miklkit

Dunno what the problem is, but this is what my 9590 did @ 4.7 on a Sabertooth with air cooling.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koykis*
> 
> I'm getting officially worried now...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So you guys suggest that there's something wrong with the airflow or with the AIO cooler?


Could be a bad mount on the cpu block (needing better TIM)
Could/probably also be poor air flow through case.

Is the AIO intake or exhaust? I'd have it as intake.
Also think about adding a fan for both sides of the mobo. (VRM's and back of socket)

Have a look at my rig sig and you'll see what it takes to cool my 9590








These things do run hot, but you definitely have issues somewhere there with that crazy socket temp.
You didn't forget to peal back a protective film on the WB by chance? I've seen that more than once.

Welcome to OCN! (just noticed)


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Have you tried running IBT AVX version at 4.7GHz? http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> If you can pass 20 runs on Very High some might call this gaming stable. I always pass 20 runs on maximum and than go for a 24 Prime95 run.
> It's been a long time since I've run OCCT as it's fairly weak as far as stress tests go.
> 
> Freezing is usually a sign of a lack of Dram voltage or CPU/NB voltage, sometimes even a combination of the two.
> You'll also need to play with Digi+ settings as you go. Especially with a higher clock.
> 
> Something to realize, some 8350's can do 4.9 others have a hard time stabilizing 4.8Ghz. Others can't get past 4.7GHz (stable).
> Jumping from 4.7 to 4.9 is going to take some time if you're looking for stability. I never did my 8350 higher than 4822MHz @1.512v and have it 24 hr Prime95 stable.
> 
> Do you have active cooling on your VRM's?
> 
> I'd start back at 4.7 and check stability with IBT. Once you have that than move ahead and watch dram and cpu/nb voltages rather than just increase vcore.
> At this level you'll be amazed how small of a voltage change can impact your OC. Think baby steps.
> 
> It might be helpful if we could see some bios snips to see where your at (F12 with a thumb drive in USB2.0 port).


thanks for the detailed reply.

i have never run IBT at all but i will give it a shot. my OC to 4.7 was tested for around 8hours with OCCT and not had a problem with it for around a year now.

well i countered the freezing by adding more vcore and that worked, i did not change the Dram or CPU/NB voltages at all.

I do not have active cooling on my vrams, pics can be found on my W.I.P. build log in my sig.

Thanks, i will post some pics of my BIOS when i can and give it another crack. wont be for a little while as im at a friends wedding at the weekend. Damn people getting married, dont they know we have overclocking to do.


----------



## btupsx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I agree running them both at the same is useless. There is no proof and people have spouted it since bull dozer


Seconded. I've always seen better performance (though nothing spectacular) running the HT a multi or two above the CPU/NB.


----------



## Adict

Hii guys , I try to overclock my 8320 to 4.5ghz with corsair h80i watercooling on the asrock fatal1ty killer 990 motherboard . I notice that i have voltage drops when i test in prime 95 . I turn off turbo and cool'n'quiet . Some people tell me to disable LLC but I cant find it in my bios .
Can someone who have amd fx 8320 on 4.5ghz tell me voltage for that overclock ? Or something that i forgot to do ?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adict*
> 
> Hii guys , I try to overclock my 8320 to 4.5ghz with corsair h80i watercooling on the asrock fatal1ty killer 990 motherboard . I notice that i have voltage drops when i test in prime 95 . I turn off turbo and cool'n'quiet . Some people tell me to disable LLC but I cant find it in my bios .
> Can someone who have amd fx 8320 on 4.5ghz tell me voltage for that overclock ? Or something that i forgot to do ?


Have you added any active cooling for the VRMs?
Could be the voltage drops are due to temps causing throttling (Asrock is known for this).

Post a few SS's showing HWInfo while running P95.

Also please give this a read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
It makes much easier for those trying to help you!


----------



## Spitras

Hi everyone, been reading this forum for a while, although never posted







Have this rig like 6 months, first OCed it to 4.2, everything went smooth, used it for couple of months, but U know how it is, never enough







So i think why not try to go for 4.5 GHz, 1.38V Core voltage and 4.5 GHZ seems fine, did some DIGI+ tuning, everything from this guide, which by the way is awesome







CPU LLC set to High, if i go for Ultra High then my temps go even more, thats why I'm asking for your guidance. Did everything else pretty much as this guide says. CPU Idle temps is 33-36 (Depends on ambient temps i guess) But when i run Prime95 it just jumps to 70 in like 5 minutes and i have to shut it right away before my CPU fries... On stress testing Core voltage drops to 1.356V (When CPU LLC - Ultra High, this voltage stays where it is at 1.38V-1.392V, but as mentioned temps get even higher). Also doing AMD OverDrive stress testing CPU never exceeds 62-63, and on AIDA64 CPU test never more than 60. I just wanted to clear things up about Prime95, is it so harsh to CPU ? or something is wrong here? because other test seems to run fine and I am kind a lost at this point. I know my Seidon 120V isn't the best of its kind but it should do the job keeping things cool on 1.38Vcore









P.S My Rig is in Rigbuilder, adding some screens on idle ant prime testing temps


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spitras*
> 
> Hi everyone, been reading this forum for a while, although never posted
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have this rig like 6 months, first OCed it to 4.2, everything went smooth, used it for couple of months, but U know how it is, never enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So i think why not try to go for 4.5 GHz, 1.38V Core voltage and 4.5 GHZ seems fine, did some DIGI+ tuning, everything from this guide, which by the way is awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU LLC set to High, if i go for Ultra High then my temps go even more, thats why I'm asking for your guidance. Did everything else pretty much as this guide says. CPU Idle temps is 33-36 (Depends on ambient temps i guess) But when i run Prime95 it just jumps to 70 in like 5 minutes and i have to shut it right away before my CPU fries... On stress testing Core voltage drops to 1.356V (When CPU LLC - Ultra High, this voltage stays where it is at 1.38V-1.392V, but as mentioned temps get even higher). Also doing AMD OverDrive stress testing CPU never exceeds 62-63, and on AIDA64 CPU test never more than 60. I just wanted to clear things up about Prime95, is it so harsh to CPU ? or something is wrong here? because other test seems to run fine and I am kind a lost at this point. I know my Seidon 120V isn't the best of its kind but it should do the job keeping things cool on 1.38Vcore


Welcome to OCN!

The difference in temps vs stress test is due to the fact both AIDA64 and AOD do not the push the system near as hard as Prime95.
Most here test with IBT AVX version (http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202) and Prime95. For me it's 20 runs of IBT on Max followed by 24 hrs of P95 Blend.
Both of these will push temps/voltages up but is required for stability testing. It's not about passing just one brand of test but rather all tests unless your into re-imaging due to possible OS corruption and or losing data.

You have already seen what to expect with your current cooling solution as this is typical on a Vishera @ 4.5 and above.
The temps definitely go up and usually requires "Ultra High" LLC on a Asus mobo to achieve stability. Have you checked how the WB is seated? (changed TIM?)

I wouldn't expect to go much higher with only a 120mm rad. You should also consider adding VRM cooling as mentioned above. It can also lower socket temps by helping to prevent heat soak.
Make sure your case also has very good air flow. You have to keep things cool if you're wanting to OC with stability.









How is the rad mounted Intake or exhaust?
Intake is preferred with only a 120.


----------



## OneWhoLived

Hello happy overclockers!

I've had my FX-8320 for year now. I set it to run at FX-8350's speed (4.0/4.2 GHz) on first day I got it without any problems.

But now I decided to push it further. Im currently stress testing it at [email protected] and it seems to be fine. I won't try to get more OC since my cooler is just medium-size Scythe Mugen 3.

So well, I got question about the temps. When doing Prime95 small FFT test, CPU package/core temp will raise very quickly. With current setting it will stay just on 61-62°C. When running Blend test or custom test, the package temp is naturally much lower around 50°C+ on long run.

So now the real question: If I would want to get even more OC, and my core temp would exceed 62°C only in small FFT test, but not in other test nor any real life usage, would my OC still be safe since currently my socket temp barely reaches 60°C? (still long way to 70 °C)

Thanks for the replies!


----------



## Nightwolf88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneWhoLived*
> 
> Hello happy overclockers!
> 
> I've had my FX-8320 for year now. I set it to run at FX-8350's speed (4.0/4.2 GHz) on first day I got it without any problems.
> 
> But now I decided to push it further. Im currently stress testing it at [email protected] and it seems to be fine. I won't try to get more OC since my cooler is just medium-size Scythe Mugen 3.
> 
> So well, I got question about the temps. When doing Prime95 small FFT test, CPU package/core temp will raise very quickly. With current setting it will stay just on 61-62°C. When running Blend test or custom test, the package temp is naturally much lower around 50°C+ on long run.
> 
> So now the real question: If I would want to get even more OC, and my core temp would exceed 62°C only in small FFT test, but not in other test nor any real life usage, would my OC still be safe since currently my socket temp barely reaches 60°C? (still long way to 70 °C)
> 
> Thanks for the replies!


The problem is it would get hard to test the stability of your overclock because of the temp that would get to high.

Probably you could clock it a little higher then 4.5 for real life usages. In those 100% load temps get really hot. But it will depend on your usage of the computer. If you encode video or run real intense good multi-threaded programs you will also see real life 100% loads. If you just do office, watching movies and playing games your load probably won't go much over 60% and temps will never reach max.

My advice would be, yes you could go a little higher but in the next few weeks keep a good eye on your temps when you are using your computer to be sure you never cross the max!
And start with searching for real minimum voltage needed to lower temps, for example 4.6 as a guideline. Mine 8150 can do 4,6 Ghz on 8 cores with 1,39375v. Considering you have a 8350 you could _probably_ use an lower voltage. You do must use LLC (load line calibration) for this borderline-low voltages.







You will lower temps by doing this and will be able to push it a little more within thermal envelope.

*EDIT*: Just saw you are a fellow sabertooth user, they have good power delivery so be sure to fiddle with the LLC settings and lower voltages







You could also get a fan to blow on the VRM heatsinks, this will drop VRM temps about 10 and CPU temps about 3, because those are two are connected with copper which is a good medium to transfer heat. This will give you some extra wiggle room to get a little higher.
_Also, Welcome to the forum!







_


----------



## Spitras

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> The difference in temps vs stress test is due to the fact both AIDA64 and AOD do not the push the system near as hard as Prime95.
> Most here test with IBT AVX version (http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202) and Prime95. For me it's 20 runs of IBT on Max followed by 24 hrs of P95 Blend.
> Both of these will push temps/voltages up but is required for stability testing. It's not about passing just one brand of test but rather all tests unless your into re-imaging due to possible OS corruption and or losing data.
> 
> You have already seen what to expect with your current cooling solution as this is typical on a Vishera @ 4.5 and above.
> The temps definitely go up and usually requires "Ultra High" LLC on a Asus mobo to achieve stability. Have you checked how the WB is seated? (changed TIM?)
> 
> I wouldn't expect to go much higher with only a 120mm rad. You should also consider adding VRM cooling as mentioned above. It can also lower socket temps by helping to prevent heat soak.
> Make sure your case also has very good air flow. You have to keep things cool if you're wanting to OC with stability.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How is the rad mounted Intake or exhaust?
> Intake is preferred with only a 120.


I want to run it as stable as it can get, thats for sure







Yea i guess Ultra High is most reliable option and i guess ill have to go for it even if i need to sacrifice 100 or 200 MHz for suitable temps









I already ordered arctic cooling mx-4 TIM, ill try to reapply it as soon as i get it, cos im not pro at PC building so it might be i applied it wrong, and the fact is i used TIM which came with Seidon 120v WB so i guess its not best quality either









My case is stuffed with coolers, air flow is good i guess, 4 intakes ( 1x front 1x 140mm bottom and 2x side) and 3 exausts (Cpu rad, and 2x top), CPU rad is exausting through back of the case. Also this case has external temp sensor, which is places directly in middle of case near cpu and vrm, and it never shows more than 29-30 even during hard gaming









So what is normal temp running P95 with this class cooler, should I not exceed 65 or somnething similar?


----------



## p5ych00n5

Alright so after being out of the game for a while it's time to punish this Vishera again

10 Runs IBT AVX High @4.9 - 1.499375V - LLC Ultra. Only Ratio LLC and Vcore touched


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spitras*
> 
> So what is normal temp running P95 with this class cooler, should I not exceed 65 or somnething similar?


According to AMD 70c for Thermo Margin (Core Temp) is max.
I'd recommend trying to keep it under 65c for say a 24 hr run of P95 to have a little headroom.

You have to keep the room ambient temp in mind as well.
The hotter the cores run the more voltage they require even with the same clock/load, it's a vicious circle lol.

p5ych00n5: had any luck running "Very High" or "Maximum" settings yet?
Looks good so far


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> According to AMD 70c for Thermo Margin (Core Temp) is max.
> I'd recommend trying to keep it under 65c for say a 24 hr run of P95 to have a little headroom.
> 
> You have to keep the room ambient temp in mind as well.
> The hotter the cores run the more voltage they require even with the same clock/load, it's a vicious circle lol.
> 
> p5ych00n5: had any luck running "Very High" or "Maximum" settings yet?
> Looks good so far


Not yet, it froze on desktop so a hard reset was in order, understandable as I only raised vcore LLC and cpu ratio and left all other settings untouched

A custom loop does help with the temps though









Reconfigured my OC to the recommended settings in the guide, passes the 10 minute P95 FFT Test @ 4.7, 4.8, 4.9, but it freezes @ 5.0 9 minutes into the test. Running 1.518750 Vcore

Somethings up, P95 constantly freezes even at stock clocks, but IBT AVX doesn't even raise a sweat



Gonna try for a 20 run


----------



## p5ych00n5

20 run completed successfully


----------



## OneWhoLived

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nightwolf88*
> 
> The problem is it would get hard to test the stability of your overclock because of the temp that would get to high.
> 
> Probably you could clock it a little higher then 4.5 for real life usages. In those 100% load temps get really hot. But it will depend on your usage of the computer. If you encode video or run real intense good multi-threaded programs you will also see real life 100% loads. If you just do office, watching movies and playing games your load probably won't go much over 60% and temps will never reach max.
> 
> My advice would be, yes you could go a little higher but in the next few weeks keep a good eye on your temps when you are using your computer to be sure you never cross the max!
> And start with searching for real minimum voltage needed to lower temps, for example 4.6 as a guideline. Mine 8150 can do 4,6 Ghz on 8 cores with 1,39375v. Considering you have a 8350 you could _probably_ use an lower voltage. You do must use LLC (load line calibration) for this borderline-low voltages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You will lower temps by doing this and will be able to push it a little more within thermal envelope.
> 
> *EDIT*: Just saw you are a fellow sabertooth user, they have good power delivery so be sure to fiddle with the LLC settings and lower voltages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You could also get a fan to blow on the VRM heatsinks, this will drop VRM temps about 10 and CPU temps about 3, because those are two are connected with copper which is a good medium to transfer heat. This will give you some extra wiggle room to get a little higher.
> _Also, Welcome to the forum!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> _


Thank you! Had been reading the forums for long time but decided to finally register now.

Yes I followed the guide and I have CPU LLC Ultra High and NB LLC high. I had to increase voltage still little bit, my 8320 (Yes, not 8350) did small FFT testing well with 1.3925V but had to increase it to 1.4125V to have few hours stable run with prime custom test as told in guide. And yes my core temp reached finaly 60C on that run so I guess this setting is I will stay now. Sabertooth Vcore-1 temp got max 66C during the stress test, but it won't reach that on normal use.

I will be following the real life usage temps still to be sure they remain in good range.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> Somethings up, P95 constantly freezes even at stock clocks, but IBT AVX doesn't even raise a sweat


Freezing is usually a sign of a lack of Dram voltage or CPU/NB voltage. Could also be a combination of the two.
Remember having all four Dimm slots full will require additional CPU/NB voltage (even at stock). My 2400MHz NB with only two Dimms is 1.193v in bios with "Regular" setting for CPU/NB LLC.
I haven't stabilized a 2600MHz NB at my current clock of 5117MHz so far due to excessive voltage required and really no noticeable difference in everyday usage, only in benchmarks.
For me, not worth the heat it adds either.

As you raise the CPU clock by itself, this will also require additional CPU/NB voltage and additional Dram voltage after a certain point which you are probably at now. This would be keeping both freqs at current levels and only adding CPU clock. If you have the CPU/NB higher than 2400MHz (I thought I saw this a few posts back) try reducing it till you gain stability than re-add it back into the OC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p5ych00n5*
> 
> 20 run completed successfully


Notice the seemingly big spread in GFlops (77.xxx to 86.xxx)? If you haven't yet and have your CPU VDDA voltage on auto try making small changes and rerun test.
On my CHV-Z I found the mobo tends to over volt and sets mine to 2.54v when on auto. I ended up manually entering 2.51875v and this really tightened up my GFlops after fine tuning the Dram and CPU/NB voltages.

While number in GFlops means nothing by itself you'll find fine tuning the OC will bring GFlops much closer to the same and I find/use this to aid in finding stability.
You should also see as the closer they are, the higher they will be.

While it did pass "Very High" I'd be surprised if it made very far into a "Maximum" run gauging from the difference in GFlops shown above.
Shoot for something more like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Keep pushing you'll make it


----------



## p5ych00n5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Freezing is usually a sign of a lack of Dram voltage or CPU/NB voltage. Could also be a combination of the two.
> Remember having all four Dimm slots full will require additional CPU/NB voltage (even at stock). My 2400MHz NB with only two Dimms is 1.193v in bios with "Regular" setting for CPU/NB LLC.
> I haven't stabilized a 2600MHz NB at my current clock of 5117MHz so far due to excessive voltage required and really no noticeable difference in everyday usage, only in benchmarks.
> For me, not worth the heat it adds either.
> 
> As you raise the CPU clock by itself, this will also require additional CPU/NB voltage and additional Dram voltage after a certain point which you are probably at now. This would be keeping both freqs at current levels and only adding CPU clock. If you have the CPU/NB higher than 2400MHz (I thought I saw this a few posts back) try reducing it till you gain stability than re-add it back into the OC.
> Notice the seemingly big spread in GFlops (77.xxx to 86.xxx)? If you haven't yet and have your CPU VDDA voltage on auto try making small changes and rerun test.
> On my CHV-Z I found the mobo tends to over volt and sets mine to 2.54v when on auto. I ended up manually entering 2.51875v and this really tightened up my GFlops after fine tuning the Dram and CPU/NB voltages.
> 
> While number in GFlops means nothing by itself you'll find fine tuning the OC will bring GFlops much closer to the same and I find/use this to aid in finding stability.
> You should also see as the closer they are, the higher they will be.
> 
> While it did pass "Very High" I'd be surprised if it made very far into a "Maximum" run gauging from the difference in GFlops shown above.
> Shoot for something more like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Keep pushing you'll make it


Well I kicked up the CPU/NB - Dram Volts a notch and dropped the VDDA which tightened up the GFlops... Quick & Dirty 10 run


----------



## Amhro

Wow, I think I'm very "lucky" for my 8320 chip.
Decided to push it a little today, ended up with 4,2GHz @ 1.375v








CPU temp always under 50°C, VRM temp under 65. I still had some little space so decided to go further.
4,5GHz @ 1.45v and prime95 would fail right after starting the test, and I'm not sure whether I can add more vcore or not... Is there something I may do wrong, or is my chip just not friend with overclock?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Wow, I think I'm very "lucky" for my 8320 chip.
> Decided to push it a little today, ended up with 4,2GHz @ 1.375v
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> CPU temp always under 50°C, VRM temp under 65. I still had some little space so decided to go further.
> 4,5GHz @ 1.45v and prime95 would fail right after starting the test, and I'm not sure whether I can add more vcore or not... Is there something I may do wrong, or is my chip just not friend with overclock?


Actually the Hyper 212 will be your limiting factor as they're known to hold temps in check till about 4.5 to 4.6 at best depending on ambient air temp.
Read back a few posts, add an old case fan to blow directly onto the VRM HS to help cool those VRMs and we need more info on how your OC is failing to help you further.

Can you post a ss of HWInfo64


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






while running a test? Would also help to know how you have bios setup. Please take a few minutes and rename the values in HWInfo which makes it much easier to read and no need to see all eight listings for CPU usage etc.


----------



## pumpkinwatcher

Hello Community.
First of all thanks guys for all the great help I found in this conversation specifically. A shout out to Sandman, a fellow Michigan resident (Lansing). I followed the guide to the T and have achieved overclocks several different ways but keep running into a few problems.

First of all I believe I was blessed with a stellar 8370 chip because I am able to bump it up to 4.6 Prime stable using the fsb with zero voltage increase so it's frustrating that I am unable to achieve anything beyond 4.8. As soon as I get to 4.8 its temp limited because I am required to increase the voltage to 1.4 + to achieve any kind of stable overclock. I can only achieve 4.8 prime stable overclock through a fsb overclock because as soon as I touch the multiplier the voltage required outpaces my thermal capabilities. I know I am somewhat limited by the board which has a large disparity between the socket temp and chip temp which is well documented by other users so I understand I am dealing with a very real ceiling here.

Before I started to play with a mixed overclock my fsb overclock was stable at 1.4125 and the temps were peaking in prime at 70/52 socket/chip respectively.

Now a couple things I've noticed recently, using CPU-z with either overclocks (FSB/Multiplier) despite having everything set manually the voltage will fluctuate from 1.4 to 1.42 as the FSB increases or decreases causing my chip to fluctuate between 4.8 and 4.9?! For the life of me, I don't remember this happening a few days/weeks/months ago and I cannot figure out why its doing this. Not sure if this is a hardware problem or a bios setting problem but its a problem because I believe its affecting my stability. I've retraced my steps using the guide once more and I cannot remedy this issue. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Asus m5a99fx pro r2.0
AMD 8370


----------



## pumpkinwatcher

Oh and one more thing, despite trying to readup on the subject, I am terribly ignorant about voltage requirements to the northbridge and dram. I know you just touched on it a bit Sandman but this could be part of my overarching problem because I'm unsure how it relates to FSB and HT speed. I currently have my RAM overvolted a nudge and zero overvolt for my NB. When I was stable at 4.8 (static 4.8) I simply adjusted my NB and HT down willy nilly to around defaults. Shows my overclocking prowess I guess.









To add some more info here, I just went back to my formerly stable overclock as saved in the bios and it froze during Prime. Weird. Never done that before. It had rebooted a couple times using SISoftware but I figured that was an anomaly. Well I just reset to defaults in bios and the computer is running like a dream my temps at 48 socket 30 chip full load in prime with the fan profiles of the cpu and case to silent. (Cpu fans running at 30% case fans running at 40%). Not sure whats up but I'm committed to getting this thing overclocked so I will be starting from scratch on the overclock once again.

Any help from the start would be appreciated. I will be referring to the guide. Thanks in advance.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pumpkinwatcher*
> 
> Oh and one more thing, despite trying to readup on the subject, I am terribly ignorant about voltage requirements to the northbridge and dram. I know you just touched on it a bit Sandman but this could be part of my overarching problem because I'm unsure how it relates to FSB and HT speed. I currently have my RAM overvolted a nudge and zero overvolt for my NB. When I was stable at 4.8 (static 4.8) I simply adjusted my NB and HT down willy nilly to around defaults. Shows my overclocking prowess I guess.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To add some more info here, I just went back to my formerly stable overclock as saved in the bios and it froze during Prime. Weird. Never done that before. It had rebooted a couple times using SISoftware but I figured that was an anomaly. Well I just reset to defaults in bios and the computer is running like a dream my temps at 48 socket 30 chip full load in prime with the fan profiles of the cpu and case to silent. (Cpu fans running at 30% case fans running at 40%). Not sure whats up but I'm committed to getting this thing overclocked so I will be starting from scratch on the overclock once again.
> 
> Any help from the start would be appreciated. I will be referring to the guide. Thanks in advance.


Hey pumpkinwatcher welcome to OCN!

What I do is run IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 before P95.
It finds the easy instability with less work. Try 10 runs of "Very High", after passing that move to a 20 run set on "Maximum" than follow up with P95.

You ask about NB voltage. I'll assume you mean the actual NB voltage and not CPU/NB. Additional NB voltage is required to help stabilize a Ref Clock above say 240MHz or so, depends on the mobo.
Some go as high as 1.3v depending on the mobo and clock.
On my CHV-Z with an 8350 running @ 4822MHz (18 x 267MHz) I ended up running 1.24375v for the actual NB voltage manually entered in bios.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














You'll need to test your setup as every setup will be diferent these are just to give you an idea.

HT voltage can probably use a slight bump as well.
Of course as you increase the clock speed you will also find a need for additional Dram and CPU/NB voltages as mentioned a few posts back.
My 8350 had one heck of a voltage wall at 4822 and was where I had to stop for my everyday OC. After selling it the new owner had it up to 7.1GHz on LN2 lol.

Temps are going to be your limit and adding a fan to blow directly onto the VRMs will help to lower socket temps at the same time due to heat soak. Give this a try. Zip ties will hold it in place for testing.
When AIO's are used many don't think to replace the air flow over the mobo/VRM's. I run a 120mm on the back side of the mobo and on my VRM's and they already have a WB on them!

To go above 4.7/4.8 may require a better cooling solution (depending on ambient). I do know M5a99FX Pro Rev2.0 is capable of 5.0 but only with enough cooling.
You might want to read through here http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club and here http://www.overclock.net/t/1519033/5-ghz-24-7-oc-club/820#post_24007747 to see the M5a99FX I mentioned.

Feel free to post back or PM me if I can help you further!


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Actually the Hyper 212 will be your limiting factor as they're known to hold temps in check till about 4.5 to 4.6 at best depending on ambient air temp.
> Read back a few posts, add an old case fan to blow directly onto the VRM HS to help cool those VRMs and we need more info on how your OC is failing to help you further.
> 
> Can you post a ss of HWInfo64
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> while running a test? Would also help to know how you have bios setup. Please take a few minutes and rename the values in HWInfo which makes it much easier to read and no need to see all eight listings for CPU usage etc.


Yeah I had one fan blowing on VRM but recently it started to be really noisy and haven't found replacement yet








HWInfo64 screenshot, little bit edited as you requested, it will not help much as thread failed right after starting blend test even at 4,2GHz @ 1,375v now, it didn't happen before.


Here are some bios screens.

The yellow number is 1.450000.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Yeah I had one fan blowing on VRM but recently it started to be really noisy and haven't found replacement yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWInfo64 screenshot, little bit edited as you requested, it will not help much as thread failed right after starting blend test even at 4,2GHz @ 1,375v now, it didn't happen before.
> 
> The yellow number is 1.450000.


When you say it didn't happen before are you meaning it passed P95 before, and not now? If so how long did you test for and pass?
I'm a little confused. Have you been able to pass any IBT AVX on this previous OC?
Any chance it was never really stable? Bare in mind, I'm one of those that has to pass 20 runs of IBT AVX set to Maximum and than 24 hrs of P95 to be considered stable lol.

Looking at bios snips you want to try these,

CPU Spread Spectrum and CPU/NB S/S can both be disabled
Myself I use OFFSET Voltage Mode which allows use of C&Q
Dram voltage should be manually entered to what is labeled on the sticker on the Ram itself (might have to add .05v to .1v) the fewer items left on auto the better off you will be.
Manually enter all the Dram timing from the sticker
Enter NB voltage, start with 1.125v which should be fine with the 200MHz Ref Clock
NB HT voltage enter 1.225v
SB voltage enter 1.100v
You may need to try the next level for CPU Power Phase Control
CPU Power Response Control to Fast, not auto
Dram Current Capability to 130%
You can try raising the Dram Voltage Freq when nothing else helps

Be sure *ALL* power saving features are disabled completely when stress testing. You can enable them after you reach your goal if you use OFFSET Voltage
If you tested with the Power Saving features they way they're shown in bios snip could be reason enough for instability.

I am really curious to hear if this OC has been stable as in before now or if this is the first real stress tests you've done, it'll make a difference when I/we learn this.

At this point I would work on getting all the dram specs manually entered and retest. Don't forget you may need to add a little dram voltage.
Keep us posted!


----------



## pumpkinwatcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Hey pumpkinwatcher welcome to OCN!


Thank you! And Thanks for the response and detailed images. The links you provided are excellent, I will dive into them.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pumpkinwatcher*
> 
> Thank you! And Thanks for the response and detailed images. The links you provided are excellent, I will dive into them.


You're very welcome!

Have a look at this one too http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
makes it easy for other to see what you running (should've had in my last response lol)


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> When you say it didn't happen before are you meaning it passed P95 before, and not now? If so how long did you test for and pass?
> I'm a little confused. Have you been able to pass any IBT AVX on this previous OC?
> Any chance it was never really stable? Bare in mind, I'm one of those that has to pass 20 runs of IBT AVX set to Maximum and than 24 hrs of P95 to be considered stable lol.
> 
> Looking at bios snips you want to try these,
> 
> CPU Spread Spectrum and CPU/NB S/S can both be disabled
> Myself I use OFFSET Voltage Mode which allows use of C&Q
> Dram voltage should be manually entered to what is labeled on the sticker on the Ram itself (might have to add .05v to .1v) the fewer items left on auto the better off you will be.
> Manually enter all the Dram timing from the sticker
> Enter NB voltage, start with 1.125v which should be fine with the 200MHz Ref Clock
> NB HT voltage enter 1.225v
> SB voltage enter 1.100v
> You may need to try the next level for CPU Power Phase Control
> CPU Power Response Control to Fast, not auto
> Dram Current Capability to 130%
> You can try raising the Dram Voltage Freq when nothing else helps
> 
> Be sure *ALL* power saving features are disabled completely when stress testing. You can enable them after you reach your goal if you use OFFSET Voltage
> If you tested with the Power Saving features they way they're shown in bios snip could be reason enough for instability.
> 
> I am really curious to hear if this OC has been stable as in before now or if this is the first real stress tests you've done, it'll make a difference when I/we learn this.
> 
> At this point I would work on getting all the dram specs manually entered and retest. Don't forget you may need to add a little dram voltage.
> Keep us posted!


It hasn't passed your "passing"







I let it for like 30 min without any problem, then you asked me for screenshots of hwinfo while p95 fails at 4,[email protected] but it froze twice and after it, I returned back to 4,[email protected] and it didn't pass even 1 min







But yes, it may have never been stable, it just didn't pop up in those 30 min (also no problems in bf4 or gta v). Haven't tried IBT AVX, just p95, is it somehow heavier testing?
Thanks for those tips, I will look into it later today and I will report back!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Haven't tried IBT AVX, just p95, is it somehow heavier testing?


Not heavier by any means but it will expose instability in the early stages of testing faster than P95.
IBT will create a ton of heat like P95 and is usually quicker saving you some time rather than getting say into 3 to 4 hrs of P95 to find an error, IBT will show in sometimes only 20 minutes.
Just a time saver for running some quick tests before taking the extended time to run P95.


----------



## pumpkinwatcher

Thanks for the rig link Sandman, I'll look into that for sure. First things first though. I must be missing something in the bios because I cannot for the life of me get the cpu voltage to remain stable at what I manually set it. For example I just got my overclock up to 4.6 pretty easily with a 20 multiplier and 230 which is what I was expecting but it froze during IBT so I reset to bios and bumped the voltage to 1.34 which is .02 over stock. Got back into windows and started running IBT and noticed the voltage now reads 1.308. What? I checked it with three different programs (HWmonitor, cpuz, asus probe) all of them rock solid on 1.308. But its not freezing. I don't get it. However, now that I'm no longer testing it reads 1.332 with a max of 1.344. What is going on here. I have disabled all of the bios settings the guide points to. Is there software control going on here or am I not understanding something. I am at a loss here.


----------



## The Sandman

pumpkinwatcher:

Probably VDroop due to a lack of LLC. What is yours set to? I don't remember if we touched on this or not.
If you're currently running auto or standard raise it up one level and retest. Repeat till voltage levels off or is slightly higher than what is bios.
With LLC you pay attention to the load voltage. LLC can/will over volt so by watching loaded vcore you may be able to slightly lower Vcore to achieve the same loaded voltage, make sense?

Here's more on the topic http://www.overclockers.com/load-line-calibration/ and http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/24019-load-line-calibration-why-overclockers-should-care/

Depending on temps (Socket and VRM's) you might be throttling the CPU. Check on HWInfo during test and watch to make sure there is no difference between core usage (less than 100%) is one way to check throttling. Helps too to graph Vcore on HWInfo.


----------



## pumpkinwatcher

Ok, I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with a hardware issue. I understand LLC well enough to know what is does and how it affects the stability of an overclock, so after reading your link on the subject which verified I was understanding it correctly, I went into my bios and set the LLC to regular (it was on very high) but left the overclock unchanged otherwise with a voltage of 1.35. I then checked the voltages at idle and nothing had changed, it was still under and at 3.08/3.32 despite being set manually to 3.35. So I ran IBT and the computer immediately shut down and then powered back on. Never seen that.

The thing that's really worrisome is at idle the bus speed is in constant flux which causes the clock to jump around as well almost like it behaves at default but set within a much smaller range. Its any where from 4.515 to 4.7 according to CPUz. Hwmonitor backs up the voltage readings in real time. I'm completely confused at this because it behaves Exactly the same under load as it does at idle with LLC on very high, just with higher temps.

Because it behaves identical at idle as to load I would think that rules out a temp/throttling issue? I have touched the VRMs and they are not overly warm, I have x3 Noctua nf f12 fans running at 3000 rpms through my case during testing (to my wife's dismay) with a fan on the back socket to boot.

I just don't know with this one. I went as far and reflashed my bios. This was not happening with my earlier overclocks on my fx 6300 nor with my earlier overclocks with my current chip. Any ideas of what to try? Thanks again for your response. Your links really are helpful and as much as I've troubleshooted, I have only found one thread dealing with a similar issue and it ended with no solution.


----------



## Amhro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> When you say it didn't happen before are you meaning it passed P95 before, and not now? If so how long did you test for and pass?
> I'm a little confused. Have you been able to pass any IBT AVX on this previous OC?
> Any chance it was never really stable? Bare in mind, I'm one of those that has to pass 20 runs of IBT AVX set to Maximum and than 24 hrs of P95 to be considered stable lol.
> 
> Looking at bios snips you want to try these,
> 
> CPU Spread Spectrum and CPU/NB S/S can both be disabled
> Myself I use OFFSET Voltage Mode which allows use of C&Q
> Dram voltage should be manually entered to what is labeled on the sticker on the Ram itself (might have to add .05v to .1v) the fewer items left on auto the better off you will be.
> Manually enter all the Dram timing from the sticker
> Enter NB voltage, start with 1.125v which should be fine with the 200MHz Ref Clock
> NB HT voltage enter 1.225v
> SB voltage enter 1.100v
> You may need to try the next level for CPU Power Phase Control
> CPU Power Response Control to Fast, not auto
> Dram Current Capability to 130%
> You can try raising the Dram Voltage Freq when nothing else helps
> 
> Be sure *ALL* power saving features are disabled completely when stress testing. You can enable them after you reach your goal if you use OFFSET Voltage
> If you tested with the Power Saving features they way they're shown in bios snip could be reason enough for instability.
> 
> I am really curious to hear if this OC has been stable as in before now or if this is the first real stress tests you've done, it'll make a difference when I/we learn this.
> 
> At this point I would work on getting all the dram specs manually entered and retest. Don't forget you may need to add a little dram voltage.
> Keep us posted!


Still no luck, changed all the settings as you have suggested, disabled power saving features, manually entered all the voltages, entered dram timings (9-9-9-24) and increased dram voltage by .08v (default 1.5v), raised Dram voltage frequency to 400, but one worker in p95 keeps failing after ~20 seconds.


----------



## RJ-Savage

you can try to drop your actual northbridge voltage, like to 1.125v...seen hell of a temp drop doing that/socket etc runs molten fire hot/burn you to the touch on this board small heatsink etc......vs overvolting with really no point/no better stabilty/performance....overvolting/ocing ram to 1.6-1.625v 1866mhz etc....

then play around with your cpu-nb voltage...try to go lower if you can...finding sweet spot/w stability etc....anything above 1.28-1.3v it's throwing off a lot more heat....

expect to get a ton of system service exception's BSODs xD

find a bit more stability at 1.2v on SB...VDDA voltage leave stock/lowest doesn't seem to help a whole lot other than more excess heat....

4.5-4.6ghz is pretty easy to hit/keep in check with temps...it's 4.7-5ghz that's waaay tougher to get just right to run anything remotely being stable. at least this chip/board. this memory not helping either and overvolting/ocing trying to find right timings etc...

it's stability nightmare dude.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pumpkinwatcher*
> 
> Ok, I'm pretty sure I'm dealing with a hardware issue. I understand LLC well enough to know what is does and how it affects the stability of an overclock, so after reading your link on the subject which verified I was understanding it correctly, I went into my bios and set the LLC to regular (it was on very high) but left the overclock unchanged otherwise with a voltage of 1.35. I then checked the voltages at idle and nothing had changed, it was still under and at 3.08/3.32 despite being set manually to 3.35. So I ran IBT and the computer immediately shut down and then powered back on. Never seen that.
> 
> The thing that's really worrisome is at idle the bus speed is in constant flux which causes the clock to jump around as well almost like it behaves at default but set within a much smaller range. Its any where from 4.515 to 4.7 according to CPUz. Hwmonitor backs up the voltage readings in real time. I'm completely confused at this because it behaves Exactly the same under load as it does at idle with LLC on very high, just with higher temps.
> 
> Because it behaves identical at idle as to load I would think that rules out a temp/throttling issue? I have touched the VRMs and they are not overly warm, I have x3 Noctua nf f12 fans running at 3000 rpms through my case during testing (to my wife's dismay) with a fan on the back socket to boot.
> 
> I just don't know with this one. I went as far and reflashed my bios. This was not happening with my earlier overclocks on my fx 6300 nor with my earlier overclocks with my current chip. Any ideas of what to try? Thanks again for your response. Your links really are helpful and as much as I've troubleshooted, I have only found one thread dealing with a similar issue and it ended with no solution.


Sorry for the delay, life









Do you have AI Suite installed (don't remember) If you do use this http://www.overclock.net/t/946327/official-asus-crosshair-v-formula-990fx-club/7720#post_21763765 other wise you end up doing it manually.
Remember to run only one monitoring utility for best results. Not saying this is the problem at all, just good practice if you weren't aware. AI Suite is not a good thing to have, causes too many issues.

Do you see the same issue with the Bus Speed while running AIDA64?
Last I read you were running a 230MHz ref clck have you tried increasing the actual NB voltage? This is what you adjust to stabilize the ref clck but most times it's not necessary till you're closer to 250MHz or higher.

If nothing else helps you could remove and reinstall the CPU. I've heard of a lot weird stuff happening when it doesn't seat (drop in) properly.
It may be your particular chip doesn't play well in the 230MHz range. Have you tried any other just to see if the issue persists? Some FX's are known to have "dead spots" in the ref clck!

Show a few snips with next post of bios settings and/or HWInfo, CPUZ etc and include current CPU/NB voltage again please so we know where your at and what you've had any luck with.

Good luck!

Feel free to PM me if I don't get back to you soon enough or due to the weekend holiday
Temps are nice and cool at night this week can you guess what I'll be doing, (working on stabilizing the 5.2GHz







)


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Amhro*
> 
> Still no luck, changed all the settings as you have suggested, disabled power saving features, manually entered all the voltages, entered dram timings (9-9-9-24) and increased dram voltage by .08v (default 1.5v), raised Dram voltage frequency to 400, but one worker in p95 keeps failing after ~20 seconds.


If you haven't tried yet I would start to raise the CPU/NB voltage a little (1 bump at a time) and retest.
Keep good notes of what you changed, from and to, as well as how long before test failed. By doing this you'll start to see a pattern form with the failure time. It will either decrease which means a step in the right direction or no change/worse obviously means it be time to look at another area. I do this a lot! Bare in mind this may take more than just a couple runs of 1 bump each. Strive for the minimal voltage ness. This is where IBT comes in very handy for these short tests as you can actually see the "results" change giving you a direction to follow.

I like the "Very High" setting for starters, you'll want to see around 3.88xxxx under the results.
something like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







If you still have trouble it might be easier to back down the OC to something that will pass a few tests and proceed from that point.

When you're looking to optimize your OC/system take your time and start small, maybe even from stock again as you now have an idea at least of what it takes to get to this point.
It can be easy to over look one area (example, new DIGI settings) while increasing another and you end up chasing your tail so much it's sometimes easier to start fresh.

Let us know if increasing CPU/NB helps or what you do that does help.


----------



## EnjoyMuff

I have been stable on 4.4ghz now for a very long time and I am now looking into pushing my 8350 further I used this guide before to get the 4.4ghz and I was happy with the results and temps.
I am no looking for 4.6ghz or maybe higher but my main question is when looking at HWmonitor I am not sure which temp I should be taking my reading from as there are two for the CPU may someone please let me know which one is for which? This will help me know if I am getting close to temp limits and all that dango











The current readings are from ideal temps in a very hot room as the English summer is kicking in now load temps can be uploaded as well if needed.

Thanks everyone


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> I have been stable on 4.4ghz now for a very long time and I am now looking into pushing my 8350 further I used this guide before to get the 4.4ghz and I was happy with the results and temps.
> I am no looking for 4.6ghz or maybe higher but my main question is when looking at HWmonitor I am not sure which temp I should be taking my reading from as there are two for the CPU may someone please let me know which one is for which? This will help me know if I am getting close to temp limits and all that dango
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The current readings are from ideal temps in a very hot room as the English summer is kicking in now load temps can be uploaded as well if needed.
> 
> Thanks everyone


your package temps are the core temps, and cpu is your socket temp

keep socket undeer 72 and all will be well


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> your package temps are the core temps, and cpu is your socket temp
> 
> keep socket under 72 and all will be well


Thank you I never get close to 50c on the package temp reading but high/ mid 50s under load on the cpu socket reading.

I was asking because some programs only show the socket temp reading and nothing else E.G. the BIOS and AI suit.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> Thank you I never get close to 50c on the package temp reading but high/ mid 50s under load on the cpu socket reading.
> 
> I was asking because some programs only show the socket temp reading and nothing else E.G. the BIOS and AI suit.


nice u got some headroom to go higher if u can


----------



## EnjoyMuff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gertruude*
> 
> nice u got some headroom to go higher if u can


I am hoping to yes I have 4.4ghz stable at 1.375 volts in the bios, reads a bit higher in OS though as normal.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> Thank you I never get close to 50c on the package temp reading but high/ mid 50s under load on the cpu socket reading.
> 
> I was asking because some programs only show the socket temp reading and nothing else E.G. the BIOS and AI suit.


HWInfo64 works pretty well on a CHF-Z as it shows all the sensors


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







If you want to uninstall AI Suite (it's known to cause issues) this may help http://www.overclock.net/t/946327/official-asus-crosshair-v-formula-990fx-club/7720#post_21763765


----------



## pumpkinwatcher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EnjoyMuff*
> 
> I have been stable on 4.4ghz now for a very long time and I am now looking into pushing my 8350 further I used this guide before to get the 4.4ghz and I was happy with the results and temps.
> I am no looking for 4.6ghz or maybe higher but my main question is when looking at HWmonitor I am not sure which temp I should be taking my reading from as there are two for the CPU may someone please let me know which one is for which? This will help me know if I am getting close to temp limits and all that dango
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The current readings are from ideal temps in a very hot room as the English summer is kicking in now load temps can be uploaded as well if needed.
> 
> Thanks everyone


This explanation of what socket temp is to cpu temp and the difference between the two was the best I have found. http://www.sevenforums.com/pc-custom-builds-overclocking/330431-amd-fx-temps.html

Actually, its probably worth a read even if you think you understand it fully. It's short and to the point as well from an authority on the subject.


----------



## pumpkinwatcher

Thanks Sandman for the info, I am working at getting a 4.7 stable and about to change out my rad fans/ thermal paste on the northbridge. When I do so I will post some screen shots of my bios settings to begin work at 4.8+. I thought I had 4.7 stable after passing x2 maximum IBT AVX passes and 10+ hours of Prime but I left for an overnight excursion to Grand Rapids (shout out Sandman) and when I got back the system had rebooted for some reason. Always frustrating. At any rate have a great holiday!!!


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> Typical Voltage for a 4.8Ghz Overclock is 1.45-1.5v
> 
> So it sounds like you have a really great CPU there. Maybe it was a 9590 that snuck in as an 8350
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for checking for me. I suspect that XTU is a modified version of Prime95 as it seems to be able to test the instructions/cpu without stressing the power delivery as hard. Maybe modified due to Haswell-E boards burning up (8 Cores 16 threads)
> 
> Since VRM stress causes the socket, and thus CPU to heat up and in some cases causing false negatives (throttling etc), I thought it might be a useful tool for those to check stability, if they aren't planning on say, running [email protected] Too bad Intel doesn't play nice like that.


I'm glad you gents posted these comments here: I recently built a 5960X for work, but have yet to play with BIOS settings on the Asus X99. As such, I didn't bother running any stability testing. I'll definitely research this topic thoroughly before touching the BIOS: never would have considered that P95 would kill an i7


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> What people don't realize is that the core( calculated temp) Is based in part off of the socket temp which is a real measurement. Now other things will affect the socket temp but one of the biggest is how well your CPU cooler does pulling the heat away from the CPU.
> 
> If you notice in this pic that the package and cpu temps are ~ 10c apart which is where they should be. I'm not using any fans I just have an exceptional water loop. My point is that the CPU cooler IS the most important part of the cooling as well as the motherboard. Better boards dissipate heat more effectively and transfer power with less heat produced. Your board Is OK for a mild OC but if you want to go higher I would suggest a better cooler or strap a fan on the back of the board and leave it where it is.


Old post, but I 100% agree - if the two temps are more than 10C apart during stress testing, something is wrong with your cooling. My set-ups fluctuate between a 6C and 10C gap depending on which stage of the stability testing I'm on.


----------



## CS14

Very useful and well put together guide. I'll be using this when my M5A99X EVO R2.0 arrives in the next few days.


----------



## carinae

Hello, can someone suggest a not so expensive Asus motherboard to OC'd a 8320e? Here are the available am3 socket Asus Motherboard in my region:
M5A97 LE R2.0
M5A99FX Pro R2.0
ROG 990FX Crosshair V Formula Z
TUF Sabertooth 990FX r2.0

In terms of OC and performance, what should I expect from each?

Also, how much performance boost should I expect from 8370e compared to 8320e? Does it OC'd much higher?

In terms of use, I'm only going to be using this AMD machine to run graphics/CAD render/simulation. No gaming. Just CPU and RAM.

Thank you very much.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carinae*
> 
> Hello, can someone suggest a not so expensive Asus motherboard to OC'd a 8320e? I live on the other side of the world and most likely availability would be an issue so I'd appreciate it if you suggest more than 1. Thank you very much.


Here's my first two picks for the budget minded that perform real well
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131874
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813131851


----------



## jacqlittle

For only 2$ difference, go for the 990FX Pro version...


----------



## SomeLittleGuy

This is my first post to the forums, yes yes I feel a little bit of a jerk due to that








But I really need help.

Which one of these Socket ?? Temperatures, is my actual socket temp?



Max temperature in RED seems a bit high for running at stock, should I be worried?

This was after 10 cycles IBT @ high setting. Prime95 gave approx same results, it was about 1 or 2 deg Celcius less.

Ambient temp is about 28/29c at this moment being (I'm sadly in the attic with my PC) I opened the door since the heat should be dropping again where I live, hoping outside temperature will be around 21c soon again. I don't really like the heat, usually it's around 18c in the house (feels like 20/21 because of good isolation).

So my old processor was running quite a lot cooler (it was 6100) while it was clocked a lot higher with a high voltage, I believe it was at ~4.6/4.7ghz @ 1.44v with 240mhz on the fsb, it ran stable. Max socket temp around 62 deg celcius under full load for 8 hr, this was in the winter though.

I Feel that it's my application of TIM when I just placed this CPU in my board. I feel that I did not apply enough TIM, I'm pretty sure it's not too much and not too little. I definitely know for sure that it's not too much. Also which method is best for AMD FX, I didn't do anything different? Or is my H100i dying?

Should I try remount with re-apply of TIM? I want to overclock this beauty, but I don't really want to hit socket max temp after 4.6ghz, yes I know h100i isn't the best cooler at the moment. But I can't afford to cooler for at least another month.

(The h100i is about 2 years old now I guess, it's a second one, first one I had to RMA because pump stopped after 2 weeks).

One other thing, my CPU/NB Voltage defaults at 1.15000 is this normal?
The FX 8350 in question defaults at / around 1.284000 is this normal as well, seems a bit low.

Rig

AMD Fx-8350
Crosshair V Formula-Z
H100i CPU Cooler
Corsair vengeance low profile 1600mhz CL8

Some SSD, Couple of HDD, 2x GTX 660 (guessing this is irrelevant).


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SomeLittleGuy*
> 
> This is my first post to the forums, yes yes I feel a little bit of a jerk due to that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I really need help.
> 
> Which one of these Socket ?? Temperatures, is my actual socket temp?
> 
> 
> 
> Max temperature in RED seems a bit high for running at stock, should I be worried?
> 
> This was after 10 cycles IBT @ high setting. Prime95 gave approx same results, it was about 1 or 2 deg Celcius less.
> 
> Ambient temp is about 28/29c at this moment being (I'm sadly in the attic with my PC) I opened the door since the heat should be dropping again where I live, hoping outside temperature will be around 21c soon again. I don't really like the heat, usually it's around 18c in the house (feels like 20/21 because of good isolation).
> 
> So my old processor was running quite a lot cooler (it was 6100) while it was clocked a lot higher with a high voltage, I believe it was at ~4.6/4.7ghz @ 1.44v with 240mhz on the fsb, it ran stable. Max socket temp around 62 deg celcius under full load for 8 hr, this was in the winter though.
> 
> I Feel that it's my application of TIM when I just placed this CPU in my board. I feel that I did not apply enough TIM, I'm pretty sure it's not too much and not too little. I definitely know for sure that it's not too much. Also which method is best for AMD FX, I didn't do anything different? Or is my H100i dying?
> 
> Should I try remount with re-apply of TIM? I want to overclock this beauty, but I don't really want to hit socket max temp after 4.6ghz, yes I know h100i isn't the best cooler at the moment. But I can't afford to cooler for at least another month.
> 
> (The h100i is about 2 years old now I guess, it's a second one, first one I had to RMA because pump stopped after 2 weeks).
> 
> One other thing, my CPU/NB Voltage defaults at 1.15000 is this normal?
> The FX 8350 in question defaults at / around 1.284000 is this normal as well, seems a bit low.
> 
> Rig
> 
> AMD Fx-8350
> Crosshair V Formula-Z
> H100i CPU Cooler
> Corsair vengeance low profile 1600mhz CL8
> 
> Some SSD, Couple of HDD, 2x GTX 660 (guessing this is irrelevant).


Welcome to OCN! (and never feel out of place, we all had to start just like you)

That's the first time I've seen two Socket temps load like that.
Usually any duplication is between the ROG and ITE Header values but because they're a different sets of sensors so this makes sense.
Have you tried to reinstall HWInfo? Also, how stable is current setup?

Socket temps are greatly affected by air flow or lack there of. Socket temps can/will increase when running an AIO (or custom loop) as there is no longer any fan mounted near the socket area.
You can easily add an old case or the stock CPU HS fan to blow directly onto the socket and VRM's which helps a lot. Double sided tape or zip ties work great.
You can also add another fan behind the mobo to blow onto the back side of the socket area too which also helps a lot but depending on your case it may require a slight mod.

Here's a snip of my set up at the end of a 24 hr run of Prime95, check the socket temp (max and average). To view image full size, in lower right hand corner click "Original"


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Yes there's a big difference in our clocks and voltage but I'm running active cooling (1x80mm plus 2x60mm front, 120mm back) on both sides of the socket/vrm's (they're listed in my HWInfo) while the CPU, Mobo, and GPU are all under h2o.
Socket should be fine for at least 70c. I've heard of some running closer to 80c without issue.

Make sure your testing with ibt avx version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 but watch those temps as the avx version is much more demanding!

83xx run very hot when OC'd here's a clip on applying TIM http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/24890#post_20981038
Definitely try a remount and consider adding some active cooling for socket.

If you notice my snip above you'll see HWInfo lists my chips CPU VID (labeled Core #0 VID) and CPU/NB VID (labeled NB VID) which is what AMD recommends for its stock voltages. Mine is 1.125v for CPU/NB.
When OCing you should ALWAYS manually enter as many values as possible with a minimum left on "Auto". Start with VID values and test. Make small increases ONLY when necessary followed with more testing.

You may want to give this a read too as it will help those that are trying to help you http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

If I can help any further feel free to post back or PM me,
Have fun and good luck!


----------



## SomeLittleGuy

Thanks for the quick reply.

I might do a remount and the VRM fan mod, just in case. Yeah, the temperatures seem kind of odd to me as well. I know there is / can be a fluctuation between several temperatures and sensors. But they seem way off. The airflow in my case isn't really the best one you can get, since it's the Corsair Carbide 500R (yeah, kind of a failure purchase, but the aesthetics are nice).
Planning to do a window mod very soon to get a better airflow in my case. The mesh panel is kind of making the air go all nuts and sneaking outside my case where I don't want it.

I used the pea method for applying TIM as I would normally do and never had issues with that (but still kept me in doubt for some reason), so I'm not really sure. I guess I'll have to see what a remount does. Got +500 mhz stable(ish) for on stock voltage and temperature didn't increase much more as I had shown in the attachment (tested this for about an hour, then I reverted back to stock. Explaining the stable-ish







). After leaving the balcony door open for a couple of hours during night time, temperatures seem to have dropped for about 4/5 celcius under load, but still seem rather high to me.

I did test with IBT-avx, but thanks for pointing that out and my RIG should have updated as per now.

I'll make an update whenever I had the time to do the remount and the VRM mod. Which will probably be tomorrow. I'm not too worried at the moment since I'm not making high loads at the moment. But am planning to do so during this week, hence I wanted to have everything stable and cool at stock before I started.

Once more, thanks for the quick reply.









As a quick edit: I have reinstalled hwinfo64, also did a clean install of windows after placing the CPU (seems kind of redundant, but always do after major hardware changes) I do not use the Link Software until corsair has sorted that stuff out, so no conflicts from their either. Everything seems stable after 2/3 hr of stresstesting, must admit the long term stress was done with prime95 though (this was at stock before I made the post). but I'm leaving that for now untill I have done the stuff I am supposed to do first







.


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Socket should be fine for at least 70c. I've heard of some running closer to 80c without issue.


Holy smokes batman. You guys run these chips that warm really?? Eek.

Now from what I've experienced with a stock system, at 65c socket temp, the cpu throttles. Perhaps you meant the core temps you can run up that high??

Just wondering cause when my socket temp is that high, say 65c, my core temps are blazing past 80c.

Here's where I is benching on liquid, far far from some 70c socket temp.

Edit: in this picture, Cpu = socket / package = cores no?


----------



## Karameikos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ShrimpBrime*
> 
> Holy smokes batman. You guys run these chips that warm really?? Eek.
> 
> Now from what I've experienced with a stock system, at 65c socket temp, the cpu throttles. Perhaps you meant the core temps you can run up that high??
> 
> Just wondering cause when my socket temp is that high, say 65c, my core temps are blazing past 80c.
> 
> Here's where I is benching on liquid, far far from some 70c socket temp.
> 
> Edit: in this picture, Cpu = socket / package = cores no?


Obviously, your Custom Cooling setup is an exception to the norm







I haven't seen a HSF or AIO that can effectively cool north of 1.55V on an FX 8 Core under full Prime 95 Small FFT load, let alone 1.69V!

That said, I usually set my limits to 64C Core / 72C Socket. I've on occasion pushed the Cores for short periods to 68C, with a Socket of 75C.

If I blast the back side of the socket with compressed air during stress testing, I can lower the Socket temp to within 1 - 2 C of the Core temps.

And yes, in reference to your screenshot, the CPU Package entry of 16C is for the cores, and the CPU entry of 27C (above Mainboard entry) is for the socket. So when using non-custom cooling solutions, the Socket should be the higher temperature, and the Cores should be the lower temperature (except when ramping up at the beginning of a stress test, as the cores ramp faster than the socket).

Not trying to be Captain Obvious - just keeping the explanations clear for those that may be less experienced.


----------



## Melcar

Both my core and socket temps. end up about the same under full load (socket ends up a couple of degrees higher). The core temp. on AMD CPUs is basically a bs reading anyway, so pay more attention to your socket temp. If you have a good and proper cooling setup and a decent board, those temps should not be that far apart anyway (when under full load).


----------



## ShrimpBrime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Karameikos*
> 
> Obviously, your Custom Cooling setup is an exception to the norm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen a HSF or AIO that can effectively cool north of 1.55V on an FX 8 Core under full Prime 95 Small FFT load, let alone 1.69V!
> 
> That said, I usually set my limits to 64C Core / 72C Socket. I've on occasion pushed the Cores for short periods to 68C, with a Socket of 75C.
> 
> If I blast the back side of the socket with compressed air during stress testing, I can lower the Socket temp to within 1 - 2 C of the Core temps.
> 
> And yes, in reference to your screenshot, the CPU Package entry of 16C is for the cores, and the CPU entry of 27C (above Mainboard entry) is for the socket. So when using non-custom cooling solutions, the Socket should be the higher temperature, and the Cores should be the lower temperature (except when ramping up at the beginning of a stress test, as the cores ramp faster than the socket).
> 
> Not trying to be Captain Obvious - just keeping the explanations clear for those that may be less experienced.


No this is an excellent reply!! That above screen shot is far from some Prime95 stability testing.....

And I laugh when people run ONLY prime95 for a couple hours without errors. I used to test stability running Prime95 and OCCT linpack back to back for quite some time longer than just a couple of hours fully loading the entire system minus the video card. Then after passing this kind of stressing, I'd go and render and game to get load on that PCIe x16 lanes.

But times have changed. The bare minimum seems to be all we need for testing, however we do see people running Prime95 for many many hours like The Sandman for example. Now that my friend is a stability test when completed at 24 hours. He gets 10 points for that!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Both my core and socket temps. end up about the same under full load (socket ends up a couple of degrees higher). The core temp. on AMD CPUs is basically a bs reading anyway, so pay more attention to your socket temp. If you have a good and proper cooling setup and a decent board, those temps should not be that far apart anyway (when under full load).


Underlined_

Just to comment on core temps..... The FX-9590 has a Tj Max of 90c. If your core ever reaches this temp, the board will shut down for thermal protection.

However, your statement is true while running less than 45c on that core temp, obviously 9c idle is BS as you stated.... curious WHY it's that way....

But I have tested extensively thermal margins and over heating. While running air cooling on a stock system, FX cpu socket temp, system should throttle at 65c (core temps don't apply here) and I've noticed this on a variety of FX processors from FX-4100 all the way through to the big FX-9xxx series chips.

I've also tested the 90c thermal max several times inquiring core temps (usually higher on my system) and at that point, the board shuts right off.

All this testing was to figure out why FX-9590 and Formula-z has hang up issues, my only answer was to see that voltage was too low while running a manual overclock and shutting off the processors ability to ask motherboard for Cpu VID of 1.5250v. In addition to that low volt hang, while temps are lower, reflects voltage usage drastically. The lower the temp, the lower the usable volts. I tested this on a variety of cooling and processors including and not limited to TEC (peltier) cooling. (I'll show examples shortly, gotta few things to attend to for a few minutes here)


----------



## ShrimpBrime

OK SO - - - (strictly for testing purposes only, not for daily use. Comparison temps vs volts)

TEC (peltier) cooling temps and voltage against Pstate recommended voltage at X clock speeds. Goal was to remain frozen and thus included shutting down processor cores because TEC is not enough for running 8 cores beyond a certain point. Again tested to keep frozen, trying to stay at 0 or less in temps.

Cpu FX-8350 Working Pstats used...

# of P-States 7
P-State FID 0x1A - VID 0x0A - IDD 13 (21.00x - 1.425 V)
P-State FID 0x19 - VID 0x0B - IDD 13 (20.50x - 1.412 V)
P-State FID 0x18 - VID 0x0E - IDD 12 (20.00x - 1.375 V)
P-State FID 0x12 - VID 0x16 - IDD 10 (17.00x - 1.275 V)
P-State FID 0xC - VID 0x1F - IDD 8 (14.00x - 1.162 V)
P-State FID 0x5 - VID 0x29 - IDD 5 (10.50x - 1.037 V)
P-State FID 0x10C - VID 0x33 - IDD 4 (7.00x - 0.912 V)

To bring this up to speed, I'll post highest speed with 8 cores under TEC

Started at 1.7ghz (skipped to 3ghz to shorten the post)

Using P-state P-State FID 0xC - VID 0x1F - IDD 8 (14.00x - 1.162 V) Ran this at 3ghz frozen was about the highest accomplished on 8 cores.
After this point, I had to shut down cores to keep frozen. So this is strictly data, not daily usable. Shutting down two cores to run only 6 brought the same kind of heat as 8 cores would have so I did shut down 4 cores and then down to 2 cores.



Next up here is 4 cores 3.4ghz at the same 1.1640v. Now running Under Pstate voltage and multi of 17x - 1.2750v

Temps where really good and I had proceeded overclocking and running random benchmarks. But this is where 4 cores started under TEC cooling and remaining frozen to the best of the TEC's ability.



Skipping along bring this up to better speed... still running 1.1640v and now at 3800mhz, still frozen and benching, totally usable and fun system!



_
Then had to UP the voltage slightly running 1.272v Pstate 17x - 1.2750v recommendation while running normal ambient cooling.
Now at 4200mhz with only 1.272v started seeing above frozen temps, but still pretty darn cold to the average cooling.



And at this point had to shut down 2 more cores to remain frozen and keep well under Pstate voltage.

4.4ghz 1.272v - still running that x17 Pstate voltage, obviously well above the recommended frequency even if was only 2 cores.



Reaching 4.6ghz 2 cores 1.272v was about the limit for low voltage possiblity. After this picture had to bump v-core up a tad or two.



________________

Going to skip quite a few in between my max able and what I've demonstrated. I can add more to this later, but the idea was to see where I could top out with the lowest voltage possible and at this point going above that frozen mark I was aiming for, but was actually impressed of the possibility of running this chip under some extreme colder conditions to determine what exactly I could get away with. In all it was a fun experiment, I thoroughly enjoy the challenge of TEC cooling or any kind of frozen cooling for that matter.

In the end, cooler temps will yield a much higher overclock with a much lower voltage. So seeing people with OC issues, 9 of 10 are a cooling issue more so than settings in bios beyond that of just cpu multiplier and voltage. You can tweak all you want, but if you can't cool it, you can't OC it!

5600mhz 1.560v FX-8350 2 cores enabled only. *(again testing purposes only and a bit of fum.)*


----------



## SomeLittleGuy

So, I'm gonna try a remount within an hour or so.

All your temperatures seem so sick and steady








I just hope it's here something dumb and get fixed after the remount. Otherwise I'm gonna leave everything low and stock while I save up for a custom loop. If my cooler seems to be degrading I'll be using my old air cooler for a while until I have the budget needed for the loop.

Have been testing this evening for another 4 hour. Socket temp doesn't seem to go over 51 degrees now (didn't do a remount now, but still seems VERY hot on stock, but it might also be this old h100i, well have to about that). Now at least I'm sure that temperatures have dropped here at the attic (it's lovely dutch weather now, rain rain rain). Gonna leave the door open this night so ambient gets about the same as it is outside now. (it's approx 21 outside now, 22,5 inside one room below. Here in the Attic it's 23,5/24 celcius now).

Many thanks for the Temperature comparisons, it helps quite a lot (even though I'm on a ****ty closed loop, it gives me some starting point).


----------



## SomeLittleGuy

So, already told this to The Sandman.

To calm my tits and to make sure, I did one other clean install of windows. And apparantly it seemed there was something conflicting after all.

After 4 hours of ibt-avx on high on stock.. Temperatures were looking as following screenshot:


_(Forgot to make the screenshot before I started upping my frequency, but I can assure everyone my temperature stayed approx the same after +/-2 hr)._

This stayed like that until I got to 4.5ghz, after that I went into instability.

After 1 hour of testing until I found my stability back I have primed for 20 more minutes after I found stable voltage for 4.5 ghz and these were temperatures for prime95 ... They seemed a bit higher than with IBT-AVX (forgot to make a screenshot, but temperature on core was about 41 degr. celcius and on socket about 50 degrees celcius, with IBT).


This was at +500mhz and 1.3125volts on the vCore. (Yes, I had been playing a bit games in between the tests, haha.)

Sadly I couldn't let this run for longer for now, since I have to get to work and rather have my eye on it while it's busy. I'll continue my journey this night when I get back from work







.

Everything seemed to be stable so far though







.

Yes the chip is still running a tad hot for my likings, but it's almost the same temperature as my previous chip. So it must have been a conflict of some sort, not the cooler. I won't be pushing this chip too hard until I have found the funds for a custom water loop.

I will keep you updated how far I will get as soon as I get back home tonight.

As an edit: I will make more and better screenshots tonight when I continue my journey. I'm aiming for a stable 4.7ghz maybe 4.8ghz.


----------



## soccerballtux

your voltage is way too low for that frequency. Try 1.37v c.f. http://anandtech.com/show/8864/amd-fx-8320e-cpu-review-the-other-95w-vishera/2


----------



## SomeLittleGuy

Hello people,

Got my CPU stable @ 240 mhz FSB x 19.5 multiplyer (~ 4,7ghz @ 1.382v vCore).

And yes soccerballtux, I know I couldn't ever get to 4.7/4.8 on 1.3125volts.. but 4.5ghz ran stable for about 12 hours when I got back home, so I assume my chip is a quite decent.

didn't crash in 18 hr of stress testing no failing cores in prime95 in 6 hours. So I assume it's fine.
Around 49-53c on cores 55/57c on socket under maximum IBT-Avx for 12 hours
Around 51-55c on cores 57/62c on socket under blend Prime95 for about 6 hours ( didn't feel like running any longer, it were a long 18 hours).
And for some strange reason prime95 blend test seems to run more hot than IBT-AVX at maximum, any idea why this is?

Since I still had some headroom.. I thought I would try to push it a little harder to 4.8ghz.
I had 4.8 stable for 3 hours @ 1.42v but then it crashed in prime95, rebooted put voltage up a notch and tried IBT-AVX (instantly crashed).
got it stable at around 1.46v at the vCore but my temps were near limits, so I decided to revert back to 4.7ghz and I am quite pleased now, might look into custom waterloop very soon. ( I was babyraging at corsair and myself for being so stupid to buy stuff without thinking. I should care less about aesthetics I guess )

My CPU/NB Frequency (~ 1.2000v High LLC) and HT-Linkspeed is @ 2400 mhz.. Now I don't know if this is necessary, anyone any tips?
I feel like I could better try for the Alternative OC for 1600mhz RAM, since that is what my ram is rated for. I tried this for a while at 4.7ghz it seemed a couple of degrees cooler, but it decreased a bit in performance in cinebench when I set the CPU/NB frequency to 1920mhz. But I assume this isn't very much noticable in the real world. I use cinema4D a lot so mainly I use this for benchmarking. On the flipside this chip renders much much much faster than my previous fx6100. The poor thing took so long to get a 4K image rendered at max 16x16 AA, especially with crazy lightning and reflections. This chip seems to be at least 20% faster (very rough calculation).

So any advice? Go for couple degrees cooler with CPU/NB @ 1920mhz and HT-link @ 2640mhz... or should I leave it at 2400/2400mhz. I'm really not sure about this.

@ CPU/NB freq 1920mhz I got voltage as low as 1.075 before I went into stability issues.

I still need to do the VRM mod though, so I put my sidepanel fans @ max rpm. I got some doublesided tape, but it didn't want to hold the cpu fan in place, so I have to get a new tape tomorrow.


----------



## DigDeep

Stay on 2400/2400 it will give you much better performance.


----------



## Adict

Hi guys , can any give me settings for 4.5 ghz amd fx 8320 with watercooling h80i ? I have asrock fatality 990fxMB and 550w XFX XTR PS .


----------



## Mega Man

Short answer no.

Long answer no
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DigDeep*
> 
> Stay on 2400/2400 it will give you much better performance.


huh why oem is 2400/2600


----------



## DigDeep

Short answer no.

Long answer no
Quote:


> Originally Posted by DigDeep
> 
> Stay on 2400/2400 it will give you much better performance.


huh why oem is 2400/2600
Quote:


> So any advice? Go for couple degrees cooler with CPU/NB @ 1920mhz and HT-link @ 2640mhz... or should I leave it at 2400/2400mhz. I'm really not sure about this.


Thats why

Stock is 2200/2600


----------



## Mega Man

either way --- my question of why still stands there is NO reason to do that


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adict*
> 
> Hi guys , can any give me settings for 4.5 ghz amd fx 8320 with watercooling h80i ? I have asrock fatality 990fxMB and 550w XFX XTR PS .


Nobody can give you "settings". Even if they had the exact same rig. It isn't nearly that cut and dried.


----------



## Globber

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Nobody can give you "settings". Even if they had the exact same rig. It isn't nearly that cut and dried.


But you can usually have a set of parameters that 90% of the time will work well. Especially for a mild 4.5 Ghz oc. I followed a video from JayZeeTwoCents and it worked well for me to get my overclock started at 4.5. I was able to get it inched up to 4.7 from there on 1.4v. Then I had a Razer gaming mouse static shock me and my system has been ****ty since. Thinking my motherboard got damaged. I keep losing my USB controller drivers and my BUS speed won't hold steady. Replaced all of my hardware at this point except for my motherboard and CPU. DIMMs, GPUs, HDDs all have tested fine, and I have since then upgraded to a 1300w PSU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adict*
> 
> Hi guys , can any give me settings for 4.5 ghz amd fx 8320 with watercooling h80i ? I have asrock fatality 990fxMB and 550w XFX XTR PS .


There are a bunch of videos on oc for the 8320, watch a few of them. Also depends on your motherboard, some motherboards have different functions in BIOS.


----------



## Mega Man

1 i have never seen a vid worth a darn when it comes to ocing
2 jayszee2cents is at best a ok reviewer - he shows way way way too much bias and also tends to speak false info and never fixes it
3 there is a fine OC guide you are posting in right now !~ but you have not read it ??


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Globber*
> 
> But you can usually have a set of parameters that 90% of the time will work well.


You don't come in this forum and say "Give me the settings for my overclock". Nobody here will respond to that that. You read one of the guides. You do it yourself. Then you can come back here and post CPU-ID, Hardware Monitor screenshots and then people will help you out.


----------



## Archea47

One does not simply overclock into Mordor ...

But the first post will help get you to the black gates at least!


----------



## BillyBonz

I think I found a stable voltage for my fx8150 @4.6Ghz 1.404V. I'm currently testing on manual setting. I will keep on testing and if everything works ok I would like to use the Offset mode to enable the power saving features. Now, when I tried using Offset mode, my voltage did not pass beyond 1.368v. The value I placed on CPU Offset Voltage is 0.0925 which is the difference between my stock voltage and the 1.404v needed to maintain the 4.6Ghz. My motherboard is an Asus Sabertooth rev1.


----------



## Johan45

Try altering the CPU LLC. Set it to ultra high or just add a bit more to the offset. Things behave a bit differently when set to auto


----------



## BillyBonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> Try altering the CPU LLC. Set it to ultra high or just add a bit more to the offset. Things behave a bit differently when set to auto


Thank you Johan 45, I adjusted offset setting to 0.13750 and now my off set voltage is 1.404v.


----------



## Johan45

NP Billy


----------



## BillyBonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johan45*
> 
> NP Billy


Tried to oc pass 4.6 but it seems I exeded my H100 cooling capacity.


----------



## BillyBonz

Stable so far at 4.6ghz 1.404v


----------



## NACHTSCHRAT

Hi guys,

i am new here and i hope you will be able to help me.

I overclocked the rig of my brother with an FX-6300 and a M5A97 Board - 4.4 GHz, fine thermals, cool!

Now i wanted to overclock mine...but...there are some problems. At the moment i run at 4.14 GHz by putting the bus-speed to 250. Voltage @ Stock. Memory @ 1666Mhz.

I wanted to put up the multiplier and got errors, so i said myself : ok, lets put up the voltage a bit. so i was giving a little amount of voltage...first via offset-mode...then manual...but it's all the same.

Everytime i touch the voltage, my system starts to freeze when i try to start my benchmarks. what could be wrong?

SPECS: FX-8120/ M5A97 EVO/ G-Skill Ripjaws CL9 1600MHz RAM/ Corsair AX760 PSU

PS: Sorry for my bad writing, i am not a native englisch-speaker.


----------



## BillyBonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NACHTSCHRAT*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i am new here and i hope you will be able to help me.
> 
> I overclocked the rig of my brother with an FX-6300 and a M5A97 Board - 4.4 GHz, fine thermals, cool!
> 
> Now i wanted to overclock mine...but...there are some problems. At the moment i run at 4.14 GHz by putting the bus-speed to 250. Voltage @ Stock. Memory @ 1666Mhz.
> 
> I wanted to put up the multiplier and got errors, so i said myself : ok, lets put up the voltage a bit. so i was giving a little amount of voltage...first via offset-mode...then manual...but it's all the same.
> 
> Everytime i touch the voltage, my system starts to freeze when i try to start my benchmarks. what could be wrong?
> 
> SPECS: FX-8120/ M5A97 EVO/ G-Skill Ripjaws CL9 1600MHz RAM/ Corsair AX760 PSU
> 
> PS: Sorry for my bad writing, i am not a native englisch-speaker.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NACHTSCHRAT*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> i am new here and i hope you will be able to help me.
> 
> I overclocked the rig of my brother with an FX-6300 and a M5A97 Board - 4.4 GHz, fine thermals, cool!
> 
> Now i wanted to overclock mine...but...there are some problems. At the moment i run at 4.14 GHz by putting the bus-speed to 250. Voltage @ Stock. Memory @ 1666Mhz.
> 
> I wanted to put up the multiplier and got errors, so i said myself : ok, lets put up the voltage a bit. so i was giving a little amount of voltage...first via offset-mode...then manual...but it's all the same.
> 
> Everytime i touch the voltage, my system starts to freeze when i try to start my benchmarks. what could be wrong?
> 
> SPECS: FX-8120/ M5A97 EVO/ G-Skill Ripjaws CL9 1600MHz RAM/ Corsair AX760 PSU
> 
> PS: Sorry for my bad writing, i am not a native englisch-speaker.


go to bios and reset to optimum settings. Reboot... Go into bios. Turn turbo off. Reboot, write down what the default voltage settings are for your CPU, CPU NB, RAM. Reboot, set CPU, CPU NB and ram manually. Reboot... Set the multyplier to 4.1ghz with de fault voltages. If it bsod, increment voltage per what the Mb specifications. Page 1 on this thread will help tons.


----------



## Mega Man

Don't change fsb to 250 as a beginner. Start with multi only OC learn your chip first


----------



## NACHTSCHRAT

Okay guys,

thank you for your response. I will give it a try and post my results.

EDIT:

So, i was preparing my System, (LLC-Settings, Capabillitys 130%, No C&C, SVM & C6...).

I was able to reach 3,5 GHz with a multi from 17.5 at Stock-V for CPU and CPU/NB (1.320 & 1,237).

At the moment i am at 4,2 GHz with a 21 multi and 1.3625v for the CPU and 1.25v for CPU/NB. I got a raise of 10 kelvin of temperature at Cinebench. Everything fine.

But...when i am Prime-Testing the System, after a while my CPU drops some cores from 4.2 GHz to 1.4 GHz and raises them again. 2-3 cores start to drop at high temps ( x > 65 Celcius). Is this normal? I also think that i reached my thermal-border. Any suggestions what i could do? Should i now start to edit the BUS-Speed?

PS: I am at the same level i went with fsb oc. Same speed but higher termals :O. i think my cpu don't like me xD.


----------



## BillyBonz

this are my settings since you have an Asus board see what settings are available.


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NACHTSCHRAT*
> 
> Okay guys,
> 
> thank you for your response. I will give it a try and post my results.
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> So, i was preparing my System, (LLC-Settings, Capabillitys 130%, No C&C, SVM & C6...).
> 
> I was able to reach 3,5 GHz with a multi from 17.5 at Stock-V for CPU and CPU/NB (1.320 & 1,237).
> 
> At the moment i am at 4,2 GHz with a 21 multi and 1.3625v for the CPU and 1.25v for CPU/NB. I got a raise of 10 kelvin of temperature at Cinebench. Everything fine.
> 
> But...when i am Prime-Testing the System, after a while my CPU drops some cores from 4.2 GHz to 1.4 GHz and raises them again. 2-3 cores start to drop at high temps ( x > 65 Celcius). Is this normal? I also think that i reached my thermal-border. Any suggestions what i could do? Should i now start to edit the BUS-Speed?
> 
> PS: I am at the same level i went with fsb oc. Same speed but higher termals :O. i think my cpu don't like me xD.


I think your CPU doesn't like your cooler. You are getting hot and the CPU is throttling that drop to 1.4 is normal. You need more air flow and cooling power

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BillyBonz*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> this are my settings since you have an Asus board see what settings are available.


Just wondering why you have the NB voltage set to 1.1 manually?

I think you both need something along these lines to get some air to the socket area.
VRM Cooling



Fan on the side door



Right on the rear of the cpu socket.



All of these will help drop your temps


----------



## NACHTSCHRAT

Thanks so far for the information...ok...i will go back to a mutli of 19 - 3900GHz and 1.343 volt for the cpu. at this settings my thermals were perfect.

How far could i push the speed with fsb oc? my aim are about 4,5 GHz.

how did you atach the fans on the heatsinks? ;O.

PS: airflow should be fine


----------



## Johan45

For the heatsinks you can use cable ties and sometimes the grooves will let you sink a screw between the. The back side is almost more important for airflow. I see the tower air cooler and they just don't cut it with the FX once you start pouring the coals to it.


----------



## NACHTSCHRAT

Okay, thanks for the answer.

I managed to reach the 4.5 GHz. But the temps are to high....i know, real-life programms usually dont reach prime-temps, but 65 Celcius @ load is too much.

I will return to my fsb- 4.1 GHz @ Stock voltage. I need a better cooler xD


----------



## BillyBonz

I manually set the NB voltage to stock voltage instead of leaving it auto.


----------



## darko313

Hey everyone. I'm looking for guidance. I have an 8320 and an MSI 970 gaming motherboard. I've read its not safe to go above 1.45v so I'm at 1.44v trying to hit 4300mhz but P95 crashed on me in an hour. I have no clue what to set my CPU NB, NB, SB, and HT frequencies at. I've waded through pages of discussion but most of it is about temperatures and I'm wondering if manually setting these values could get me a better overclock. I have a decent cooler so if the board can handle above1.45v that would likely work but the board is only 6+2 phase. A lot of people are also saying the VRMs in my board are poor as well. Any tips on what would be safe settings for those values? Some say setting the HT frequencys to the same value can improve performance but others are saying that doesn't matter and stock speed is fine.


----------



## NACHTSCHRAT

Hello darko.

Why do you set your voltage that high? My 8120 was able to reach 4.3 by a slightly hit in the voltage.

Try to adjust your llc and capabillities. Also, read the First page in this thread. It helped me a lot.


----------



## miklkit

Leave your vcore where it is and also leave those other settings on auto. Try bumping your ram to 1.6v and see what happens. That board does not have LLC.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darko313*
> 
> Hey everyone. I'm looking for guidance. I have an 8320 and an MSI 970 gaming motherboard. I've read its not safe to go above 1.45v so I'm at 1.44v trying to hit 4300mhz but P95 crashed on me in an hour. I have no clue what to set my CPU NB, NB, SB, and HT frequencies at. I've waded through pages of discussion but most of it is about temperatures and I'm wondering if manually setting these values could get me a better overclock. I have a decent cooler so if the board can handle above1.45v that would likely work but the board is only 6+2 phase. A lot of people are also saying the VRMs in my board are poor as well. Any tips on what would be safe settings for those values? Some say setting the HT frequencys to the same value can improve performance but others are saying that doesn't matter and stock speed is fine.


Lowering the second fan as far as you can on that Phanteks will help cool the vrm heatsink. A fan on the cpu socket will help you lots to. Those drive bays are killing your airflow from the front fans. I would try and route more of those cable behind the motherboard.


----------



## darko313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NACHTSCHRAT*
> 
> Hello darko.
> 
> Why do you set your voltage that high? My 8120 was able to reach 4.3 by a slightly hit in the voltage.
> 
> Try to adjust your llc and capabillities. Also, read the First page in this thread. It helped me a lot.


Any lower and I get BSODs or worker crashes in prime. There's no LLC control.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Leave your vcore where it is and also leave those other settings on auto. Try bumping your ram to 1.6v and see what happens. That board does not have LLC.


Alright I'll try this.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Lowering the second fan as far as you can on that Phanteks will help cool the vrm heatsink. A fan on the cpu socket will help you lots to. Those drive bays are killing your airflow from the front fans. I would try and route more of those cable behind the motherboard.


Some good tips here.

Seems like my CPU temp peaks at around 46C but I hit a floor here at 1.448V vcore and 4300MHz on the clock speed. It survives 10 minutes of P95 so will probably be stable enough for my purposes. A bit of a shame I can't figure out how to get past that. I've tried a lot of different settings on the mobo and seem to have hit a wall. Still not bad for a $100 motherboard and $140 CPU. Thanks for the advice everyone.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darko313*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NACHTSCHRAT*
> 
> Hello darko.
> 
> Why do you set your voltage that high? My 8120 was able to reach 4.3 by a slightly hit in the voltage.
> 
> Try to adjust your llc and capabillities. Also, read the First page in this thread. It helped me a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> Any lower and I get BSODs or worker crashes in prime. There's no LLC control.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Leave your vcore where it is and also leave those other settings on auto. Try bumping your ram to 1.6v and see what happens. That board does not have LLC.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Alright I'll try this.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Lowering the second fan as far as you can on that Phanteks will help cool the vrm heatsink. A fan on the cpu socket will help you lots to. Those drive bays are killing your airflow from the front fans. I would try and route more of those cable behind the motherboard.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Some good tips here.
> 
> Seems like my CPU temp peaks at around 46C but I hit a floor here at 1.448V vcore and 4300MHz on the clock speed. It survives 10 minutes of P95 so will probably be stable enough for my purposes. A bit of a shame I can't figure out how to get past that. I've tried a lot of different settings on the mobo and seem to have hit a wall. Still not bad for a $100 motherboard and $140 CPU. Thanks for the advice everyone.
Click to expand...

What does it drop down to when under load, This will be the number that you need to look at.. minus the under load from the voltage set and find your variance.


----------



## miklkit

I do not know about that particular board's bios but the bios on my GD80 only goes to 1.449v. As a test I just set the vcore to that, bumped the ram over 1.6v, turned off turbo and the power saving stuff but left CnQ enabled and it made it to 4.6 ghz.

That is as far as I would go with that board anyway.


----------



## darko313

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> What does it drop down to when under load, This will be the number that you need to look at.. minus the under load from the voltage set and find your variance.


Running Prime it seems to go to 1.448V, but sometimes shows 1.456V so I'm not really sure which is accurate. This is in Hwmonitor under cpu vcore. Not sure what you mean by the last sentence.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I do not know about that particular board's bios but the bios on my GD80 only goes to 1.449v. As a test I just set the vcore to that, bumped the ram over 1.6v, turned off turbo and the power saving stuff but left CnQ enabled and it made it to 4.6 ghz.
> 
> That is as far as I would go with that board anyway.


I have CnQ, C1E and HPC Mode enabled. I'm running prime now with cpu voltage to 1.44, disabling c1e, and raising dram voltage to 1.65v

4.4ghz failed pretty quickly, but I can still tweak NB V, CPU NB V, and up dram voltage. I still think I am stuck at 4.3 though.


----------



## miklkit

Could you post your HWINFO64 screenie? Something like this.


It does sound like you need to tweak those other settings to get any further.


----------



## darko313

Here's what I got. Any advice? I have NB at 1.2, CPU NB at about 1.3v and dram at 1.65v. 4.3ghz is stable for more than 10 minutes but 4.4 is not.


----------



## miklkit

Now you are moving into an area that I do not know very much about. Do you have CPUZ installed? It will show what your ram timings are.

Wait. In HWINFO64 the 2nd CPU temperature is at 85C. That is far too hot and is not for the CPU anyway. We need to know what that actually is. I would guess it is either the socket or the VRMs. Either way you are in the danger zone there and that is probably the cause of your instability.

Can you put a fan directly on the VRM heat sink?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darko313*
> 
> Here's what I got. Any advice? I have NB at 1.2, CPU NB at about 1.3v and dram at 1.65v. 4.3ghz is stable for more than 10 minutes but 4.4 is not.


1.448V is the voltage that you are looking at then at your minimum, so you may need to tick the voltage up a little. CPU/NB is fine where its at
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Now you are moving into an area that I do not know very much about. Do you have CPUZ installed? It will show what your ram timings are.
> 
> Wait. In HWINFO64 the 2nd CPU temperature is at 85C. That is far too hot and is not for the CPU anyway. We need to know what that actually is. I would guess it is either the socket or the VRMs. Either way you are in the danger zone there and that is probably the cause of your instability.
> 
> Can you put a fan directly on the VRM heat sink?


The 2nd CPU is the GPU socket I believe. not the actual processor on his board. CPU0 is the one to look at. However.. IF I am incorrect in that statement that means socket is hitting 85c but shouldn't at that voltage unless you have some serious lack of airflow in your case.


----------



## miklkit

GPU socket? You lost me there. While that is the motherboard section why would the PCI-E slot be that hot when P95 is running?

Anyway more information is needed as something is running too hot.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> GPU socket? You lost me there. While that is the motherboard section why would the PCI-E slot be that hot when P95 is running?
> 
> Anyway more information is needed as something is running too hot.










 Your correct, its the socket temp on board.. bleh I need more coffee today

Yeah that needs WAY better cooling on the socket or better airflow in the case.. and that would cause the fail.


----------



## darko313

Thanks for the help. It does indeed seem like my socket temps are out of control. I moved the noctua to the back exhaust and the corsair fan to top rear exhaust, so maybe that will help clear the heat out faster. I think 70C is the recomended max socket temp so I will try and overclock as high as I can until I hit that.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darko313*
> 
> Thanks for the help. It does indeed seem like my socket temps are out of control. I moved the noctua to the back exhaust and the corsair fan to top rear exhaust, so maybe that will help clear the heat out faster. I think 70C is the recomended max socket temp so I will try and overclock as high as I can until I hit that.


tips to cool socket temp.. fan on VRMS and Northbridge... need extra cooling fan on back of socket.

max socket is up to mobo manufacture normally can get to 75-80c


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> tips to cool socket temp.. fan on VRMS and Northbridge... need extra cooling fan on back of socket.
> 
> max socket is up to mobo manufacture normally can get to 75-80c


Must not post pictures....must not post...must not...


----------



## ht_addict

Whats better for testing. IBT or Prime95


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Whats better for testing. IBT or Prime95


Both,

IBT AVX will get you 99% there and still be pretty quick, Prime takes a wile for the errors to start popping up when you get close.


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Hey guys I know this has been beat into the ground and I apologize if this has already been discussed, but I found this yesterday and was curious what you guys think. Does this mean we can go to 70C on the core 24/7 on FX8350s and not even worry about socket temps?

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/faq/id-2122665/understanding-temperature-amd-cpus-apus.html

I am running into a thermal wall at 1.4 volts while running prime 95 small ffts on my FX8350 cooled by an h100i. I have checked and rechecked my thermal paste and it's crazy to me that I can't get up above 1.4 volts without some serious heat. The upside is I can hit 4.5Ghz at 1.368 volts lol however, I want MOAR power and can't get any higher due to heat. To stack on the above question has anyone else run into this?

I'm running an FX8350 on a Sabertooth 990fx R2.0.


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Both,
> 
> IBT AVX will get you 99% there and still be pretty quick, Prime takes a wile for the errors to start popping up when you get close.


Hello, I just saw your rig details in your signature. Just curious about you running 1.7 volts on your chip? Is it running well?


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrymelocke*
> 
> Hey guys I know this has been beat into the ground and I apologize if this has already been discussed, but I found this yesterday and was curious what you guys think. Does this mean we can go to 70C on the core 24/7 on FX8350s and not even worry about socket temps?
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/faq/id-2122665/understanding-temperature-amd-cpus-apus.html
> 
> I am running into a thermal wall at 1.4 volts while running prime 95 small ffts on my FX8350 cooled by an h100i. I have checked and rechecked my thermal paste and it's crazy to me that I can't get up above 1.4 volts without some serious heat. The upside is I can hit 4.5Ghz at 1.368 volts lol however, I want MOAR power and can't get any higher due to heat. To stack on the above question has anyone else run into this?
> 
> I'm running an FX8350 on a Sabertooth 990fx R2.0.


The usual applies, you need to cool the VRMs and the back of the socket ..must not post photos ..again!

You should be able to do 4.7 with a H100i on a Saberkitty,

Have a couple of photos anyway..




And you can stop laughing now Gertie..


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> The usual applies, you need to cool the VRMs and the back of the socket ..must not post photos ..again!
> 
> You should be able to do 4.7 with a H100i on a Saberkitty,
> 
> Have a couple of photos anyway..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And you can stop laughing now Gertie..


lol thanks for the pics. I forgot to mention I have fans on my VRMs setup similar to yours as well as a thin fan behind the socket . I think I just lost the lottery :/. Yours is much much prettier though lol. What about the 70C on the core? It seems they are saying that is totally safe. What do you think? If that's the case I have another 5 or 6 degrees to go. I don't want to go all the way to 70, but I'll take it to 68 or so.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrymelocke*
> 
> lol thanks for the pics. I forgot to mention I have fans on my VRMs setup similar to yours as well as a thin fan behind the socket . I think I just lost the lottery :/. Yours is much much prettier though lol. What about the 70C on the core? It seems they are saying that is totally safe. What do you think? If that's the case I have another 5 or 6 degrees to go. I don't want to go all the way to 70, but I'll take it to 68 or so.


You should be ok,

Use this (AMD Overdrive)



to tell you how much headroom you have. This is stock



It should look something like this when running right.


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> You should be ok,
> 
> Use this (AMD Overdrive)
> 
> 
> 
> to tell you how much headroom you have. This is stock
> 
> 
> 
> It should look something like this when running right.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mike The Owl*
> 
> You should be ok,
> 
> Use this (AMD Overdrive)
> 
> 
> 
> to tell you how much headroom you have. This is stock
> 
> 
> 
> It should look something like this when running right.


Awesome thanks so much! Yeah I've been playing around with it today. I'm going to get to work and see what I can do. I'll be happy if I can hit 4.7. Out of curiosity do you use Extreme LLC on CPU and CPU/NB? I switched to it and I think I like it better than Ultra High. I'll let you guys know what I get. Again thanks for the quick replies.


----------



## TheGrymelocke

It looks like it could be stable with 4.7 Gz @ 1.46 volts (haven't done a 12 hour blend yet) however, small ffts test takes it to a little over 71C and I don't like that. I did notice that when I had my PC at 4.5Ghz the blend test never got as hot as the small fft test even after 12 hours. Is it absolutely necessary to use small ffts to check for max temps? I don't think anything would ever put it up that high would it? If that's the case I'll just stick with my 4.5Ghz overclock. I was really hoping to get 4.7 or 4.8 though







.


----------



## Mike The Owl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrymelocke*
> 
> It looks like it could be stable with 4.7 Gz @ 1.46 volts (haven't done a 12 hour blend yet) however, small ffts test takes it to a little over 71C and I don't like that. I did notice that when I had my PC at 4.5Ghz the blend test never got as hot as the small fft test even after 12 hours. Is it absolutely necessary to use small ffts to check for max temps? I don't think anything would ever put it up that high would it? If that's the case I'll just stick with my 4.5Ghz overclock. I was really hoping to get 4.7 or 4.8 though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Try IBT AVX or Aida 64 ( recommended but you have to pay for the full version)


----------



## Mega Man

Your fine at those temps I wouldn't worry. Don't do it daily. But when stressing you will be fine


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrymelocke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Both,
> 
> IBT AVX will get you 99% there and still be pretty quick, Prime takes a wile for the errors to start popping up when you get close.
> 
> 
> 
> Hello, I just saw your rig details in your signature. Just curious about you running 1.7 volts on your chip? Is it running well?
Click to expand...

Almost 3 years now.. No issues. But I keep it cool... Heat is the true killer of these chips


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Hey guys, me again. So I ran both IBT 2.54 (I read this has AVX instruction, please correct me if it doesn't) and OCCT regular mode and Linpack mode and I'm stable waaaaaay under what Prime 95 Blend allows. I'm using version 28.5 and I think people were using version 26 when this guide was written? I know this is HIGHLY debated, but I'm just going to go with whatever you guys say. I'm playing games just fine and did a couple runs of Cinebench and Firestrike. Just curious what you guys think. Thanks so much! I still think there is something wrong with my H100i though. I'm getting much higher temps than most. 67C at the core at 1.44 volts. I mean how are people hitting 1.55volts on this cooler? Or are they lying lol?


----------



## Mega Man

Use the ibt/avx in the op of the 83xx club.

The easiest way to see a difference is the gflops in the avx is 80+tile in the original is 40ish.

I use the latest prime avail

They are not lying. The newer chips are much more sensitive to voltage then the old (meaning they are trending to be hotter at same voltage )


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Yeah my chip is just slightly too hot







. Oh well. I bought it in 2013, but it was only a few months before they released the 9 series so that's probably why. Thanks again everyone for all of your help. I'm getting close, but it's just too hot. I plan to keep this for a while ha ha. Honestly it plays all my games perfectly at stock settings anyway. I just wanted to try and see what I could do with it. 4.5 is pretty decent and raises my Firestrike physics score by 1000 points so that is all well and good. I'll be back when Zen comes out to talk more. I'm super excited and may upgrade if it's worth it. Cheers!


----------



## Mega Man

iirc i promised i would go over power savings settings
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> as to power saving
> 
> Cool n quiet- downclocks cpu freq and downvolts cpu if left in OFFSET vcore mode- if in manual you still downclock cpu but keep the same volts
> 
> c1e AND c6 lets cpu enter low power states ( specific states )
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://superuser.com/questions/184569/what-is-c1e-support-on-my-amd-cpu
> FOR SOURCES SEE ABOVE LINK PLEASE
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> From an AMD Blog:
> 
> C1E is a power management state that allows the processor to reduce power beyond just the cores. With C1E, the processor power can be reduced by lowering the memory controller clock speed and halting the HyperTransport™ technology links. This new feature was extremely important for our 12-core processors with the increase in memory channel support as well as the increase in HyperTransport™ technology links within the design.
> 
> According to AMD's publicly available BIOS and Kernel Developer's Guide, section 2.4.3.3:
> 
> The C1 enhanced state (C1E) is a stop-grant state supported by the processor. The C1E state is characterized by the following properties:
> 
> All cores are in the halt (C1) state.
> The ACPI-defined P_LVL3 register has been accessed.
> The chipset has issued a STPCLK assertion message with the appropriate SMAF for C1E entry. Note that [The ACPI Power State Control Registers] F3x[84:80] specify the processor clocking and voltage behavior in response to the C1E SMAF.
> The processor has issued a STOP_GRANT message to the chipset.
> 
> General requirements for C1E:
> 
> The ACPI-defined C2 and C3 states must not be declared to the operating system.
> C1E should only be enabled when the platform is in ACPI power management mode.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/everything-you-need-to-know-about-the-cpu-c-states-power-saving-modes/
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> C6 Deep Power Down Reduces the CPU internal voltage to any value, including 0 V 45-nm mobile Core 2 Duo only
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> apm- this throws most people !
> 
> in fx it does 3 things ( on most mobos 2 things )
> all mobos i have seen
> apm throttles the cpu @ 42c ( iirc but it is between 40-42) core temp and throttles at 72c socket temp!
> on some mobos but not most !
> throttles based on vrm wattage
> 
> HPC makes APM ONLY throttle on socket 72deg ( iirc it also take out the wattage throttling, excluding gigas hard coded throttling for vrms on ud3 )
Click to expand...


----------



## ht_addict

So I decided to lap my 9590's IHS to reveal that beautiful copper top. urrently running her through some Prime95 Small FFT at 4.9Ghz/1.476v for the last 30min. Temp reading from HWINFO64 has CPU(#0):52.6oC. Ran IBT-AVX on Very High for 10 runs and hit 47.9oC. Cooler is a Corsair 110i GTX(Water Cooled)


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> So I decided to lap my 9590's IHS to reveal that beautiful copper top. urrently running her through some Prime95 Small FFT at 4.9Ghz/1.476v for the last 30min. Temp reading from HWINFO64 has CPU(#0):52.6oC. Ran IBT-AVX on Very High for 10 runs and hit 47.9oC. Cooler is a Corsair 110i GTX(Water Cooled)


Thank for the temp im sold on the h110i gtx


----------



## bonami2

Anyone know what is the setting northbridge core voltage on a gigabyte mobo it seem to default at 1.18volt

If left it on auto since it do not seem to heat up more with overclock

Hwinfo64

Says like core vid 1.188

and NB vid 1.188


----------



## Mega Man

Sounds right


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Mine is 1.106, but every chip is different of course. My chip runs 4.0 ghz flat (no turbo) at 1.3 volts on the cpu voltage. It seems most others are higher.

Edit: Sorry I looked at the wrong rig. I thought you had an fx8350. My bad :/


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Almost 3 years now.. No issues. But I keep it cool... Heat is the true killer of these chips


Ha ha! That's awesome, I was just curious. I can't even get above 1.44 volts without sever heat with my h100i. I got a crappy bin







. I'm still happy with it at 4.5ghz though


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sounds right


Any idea what would be the stock voltage for the northbridge core thing in the gigabyte bios? Asus bios was alot easier to understand uh


----------



## Mega Man

1.1x generally


----------



## bonami2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> 1.1x generally


Thank you


----------



## Revolted

Hi, first of all thanks for this awesome guide, it helped me a lot to understand what all the options in the BIOS do, my MB is a ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0 and the CPU is a AMD FX 8350, cooled by a EK L360 Watercooling, I can easily overclock my CPU to 4.4Ghz without touching the voltage but for some reason wen running Prime95, Small FFT test the CPU down throttles the speed to 1.4Ghz and it barely reaches the 60ºC, I've tried everything, all the BIOS settings are correct, I also read that it down throttles maybe because of the socket temperature, which I don't know if it's the case, but I don't believe so, is there anything else I can try? I'm unable to see how much overclock I can get out of my CPU if it down throttles during Prime95.

And again, thank you.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Hi, first of all thanks for this awesome guide, it helped me a lot to understand what all the options in the BIOS do, my MB is a ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0 and the CPU is a AMD FX 8350, cooled by a EK L360 Watercooling, I can easily overclock my CPU to 4.4Ghz without touching the voltage but for some reason wen running Prime95, Small FFT test the CPU down throttles the speed to 1.4Ghz and it barely reaches the 60ºC, I've tried everything, all the BIOS settings are correct, I also read that it down throttles maybe because of the socket temperature, which I don't know if it's the case, but I don't believe so, is there anything else I can try? I'm unable to see how much overclock I can get out of my CPU if it down throttles during Prime95.
> 
> And again, thank you.


You could be getting severe vdroop. Others like Johan would know better.


----------



## Mega Man

wouldnt be vdroop

sorry for the delay,

what are your power savings at?

APM HPC coolNquiet c1e and c6


----------



## Revolted

Hi, no problem guys, I'm just glad this thread exists.









Well, APM is Disable, HPC is Enable, CoolNQuiet is Disable, C1E is Disable, C6 is also Disable.

I'll take any suggestions and will try them as soon as I can, thank you guys again.


----------



## Mega Man

it shouldnt be enabled ( the throttling, ) are you using amd overdrive ?


----------



## Revolted

Nope, I did not even knew of the existence of that software, just checked it out on google.

For me overclock needs to be done via BIOS and not by software.

Maybe posting some screenshots of my BIOS settings would help?


----------



## Mega Man

The only other things I know of is hard coding in bios. Do you know what your cpu temp is when you throttle?


----------



## Revolted

I just tested, It throttles down from 4.4Ghz to 1.4Ghz around 57ºC


----------



## Mega Man

Is your VRM hot?


----------



## Revolted

I don't know exactly, It does seem like the VRM/Mosfet do heat up a lot, I can't leave my finger on the heat sink, I'll leave some screens but I don't see the VRM temps in those, unless I'm not seeing right.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> I don't know exactly, It does seem like the VRM/Mosfet do heat up a lot, I can't leave my finger on the heat sink, I'll leave some screens but I don't see the VRM temps in those, unless I'm not seeing right.


You won't find many boards that monitor VRM temps. The saberkiity does I believe but on my Z I ended up using Optional temp sensors.
A infrared thermometer will get you close if you pick and choose for the hottest point.

Do you have active cooling over the VRMs and/or back side of CPU? This can become a factor when WCing.
An old case fan can do wonders, even the old stock HS fan can help.

Please give this a read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig as it will make it easier for those trying to help you


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> You won't find many boards that monitor VRM temps. The saberkiity does I believe but on my Z I ended up using Optional temp sensors.
> A infrared thermometer will get you close if you pick and choose for the hottest point.
> 
> Do you have active cooling over the VRMs and/or back side of CPU? This can become a factor when WCing.
> An old case fan can do wonders, even the old stock HS fan can help.
> 
> Please give this a read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig as it will make it easier for those trying to help you


I don't have any fan on the VRM or any fans on the backside of the CPU socket, only the water block support, cutting the backside of this case would be a nightmare, it may be old but its very strong, so... the backside water block support could be the cause?

Also, I did the signature thing, thanks.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> I don't have any fan on the VRM or any fans on the backside of the CPU socket, only the water block support, cutting the backside of this case would be a nightmare, it may be old but its very strong, so... the backside water block support could be the cause?
> 
> Also, I did the signature thing, thanks.


There's really no "pretty" way of attaching a fan to VRMs but zip ties, double sided tape or hot glue go a long ways.
You may even get lucky and be able to use screws in between the HS cooling fins.
I use to simply/lightly wedge a 80mm fan between a couple water tubes as the position was perfect in my case.

The plus is obviously lower VRM temps but it will also help prevent heat sink and probably lower CPU Sockets a bit too









By the way,
WELCOME to OCN too








Good luck and have fun!


----------



## Revolted

Thank you *The Sandman* for the welcome.
*MEGA MAN* and others thanks too.

I think I might have some 80mm fans laying around, I'll give it a try tomorrow (2am here), even if it helps a bit, it's worth trying, although it may be difficult to achieve the 5Ghz I was expecting to get wen I chose to purchase this excellent WC Kit, every day I learn something new, I may have the CPU properly cooled now but the VRM of my mobo may not be able to handle the stress.









Thanks again, have a nice day or night where you are, tomorrow I'll post my new findings.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> I don't have any fan on the VRM or any fans on the backside of the CPU socket, only the water block support, cutting the backside of this case would be a nightmare, it may be old but its very strong, so... the backside water block support could be the cause?
> 
> Also, I did the signature thing, thanks.


A good bi-metal hole saw will cut through any computer case made.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> I don't have any fan on the VRM or any fans on the backside of the CPU socket, only the water block support, cutting the backside of this case would be a nightmare, it may be old but its very strong, so... the backside water block support could be the cause?
> 
> Also, I did the signature thing, thanks.


A good bio-metal hole saw would
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> I don't have any fan on the VRM or any fans on the backside of the CPU socket, only the water block support, cutting the backside of this case would be a nightmare, it may be old but its very strong, so... the backside water block support could be the cause?
> 
> Also, I did the signature thing, thanks.


A good bi-metal hole saw would cut through your case like warm butter.


----------



## Revolted

I broke a 19mm bi-metal hole saw doing the holes to pass the watercooling tubes, either the saw was not of good quality or I'm not good at using power tools, I'll have to ask someone to help me with that some time later.

For now, after directing the air flow of two 80mm fans to the HS of the VRM like *The Sandman* suggested, which really helped a lot more than I expected, I managed to get 4.6Ghz stable, if it can be considered stable after doing a Small FFT's test on Prime95 for 10 minutes, I'll let a screenshot here and ask you what do you think? Shall I try to push it a little further?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> I broke a 19mm bi-metal hole saw doing the holes to pass the watercooling tubes, either the saw was not of good quality or I'm not good at using power tools, I'll have to ask someone to help me with that some time later.
> 
> For now, after directing the air flow of two 80mm fans to the HS of the VRM like *The Sandman* suggested, which really helped a lot more than I expected, I managed to get 4.6Ghz stable, if it can be considered stable after doing a Small FFT's test on Prime95 for 10 minutes, I'll let a screenshot here and ask you what do you think? Shall I try to push it a little further?


For a 19mm dia hole best to use a step drill. They can be a little pricey but work soo well.

Temps look good but...
10 minutes of any stress test is never enough to be even close to stable. Good enough for a quick test between rounds though.

Give this a try (IBT AVX) http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 but keep a real close eye on your temps. It can run hotter then Prime95.
If you can pass 10 runs on Very High you'll be ready for 20 runs on Maximum. (With 16GB Ram 10 run on max = 1 3/4 hr roughly)
This is what I consider somewhat stable and good enough to start with some Prime95 Blend for a 24 hr run.

You'll cover more ground quicker in the early stages of testing with IBT AVX but for a system to be called stable it should pass any/all stress tests IMHO.

If temps hold after running IBT I would try raising the clock more.
If you need help with test results don't hesitate to post a few.

Watch those temps


----------



## ht_addict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> For a 19mm dia hole best to use a step drill. They can be a little pricey but work soo well.
> 
> Temps look good but...
> 10 minutes of any stress test is never enough to be even close to stable. Good enough for a quick test between rounds though.
> 
> Give this a try (IBT AVX) http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 but keep a real close eye on your temps. It can run hotter then Prime95.
> If you can pass 10 runs on Very High you'll be ready for 20 runs on Maximum. (With 16GB Ram 10 run on max = 1 3/4 hr roughly)
> This is what I consider somewhat stable and good enough to start with some Prime95 Blend for a 24 hr run.
> 
> You'll cover more ground quicker in the early stages of testing with IBT AVX but for a system to be called stable it should pass any/all stress tests IMHO.
> 
> If temps hold after running IBT I would try raising the clock more.
> If you need help with test results don't hesitate to post a few.
> 
> Watch those temps


Do we really need to test for 24hrs? I highly doubt AMD or Intel runs stress tests on their CPU's to verify


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> For a 19mm dia hole best to use a step drill. They can be a little pricey but work soo well.
> 
> Temps look good but...
> 10 minutes of any stress test is never enough to be even close to stable. Good enough for a quick test between rounds though.
> 
> Give this a try (IBT AVX) http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 but keep a real close eye on your temps. It can run hotter then Prime95.
> If you can pass 10 runs on Very High you'll be ready for 20 runs on Maximum. (With 16GB Ram 10 run on max = 1 3/4 hr roughly)
> This is what I consider somewhat stable and good enough to start with some Prime95 Blend for a 24 hr run.
> 
> You'll cover more ground quicker in the early stages of testing with IBT AVX but for a system to be called stable it should pass any/all stress tests IMHO.
> 
> If temps hold after running IBT I would try raising the clock more.
> If you need help with test results don't hesitate to post a few.
> 
> Watch those temps


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Do we really need to test for 24hrs? I highly doubt AMD or Intel runs stress tests on their CPU's to verify


Thanks *The Sandman*, just a n00b questions, do I need to do the tests, one right after the other? That will be hard for me because of work hours, stuff to do around the house, etc, I can't just sit in front of my rig for hours and watch for the temps.


----------



## Johan45

Nope, whenever you find the time and it is a good idea to keep an eye on things,


----------



## Revolted

Wow, I really like this IBT AVX program, it only froze on me once, since then I've been increasing the VCORE, managed to pass the Very High test @ 4.6Ghz with 1.416v, and a max temp of 59ºC, so I started doing the Maximum stress test, it passed two phases and failed the third, tomorrow I'll add a bit more voltage, but before that, I'd like to know what max temp running these stress test do you guys recommend.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ht_addict*
> 
> Do we really need to test for 24hrs? I highly doubt AMD or Intel runs stress tests on their CPU's to verify


Stability is very subjective, for me nothing less than 20 runs max IBT AVX, 24 hr P95 Blend followed with HCI Memtest for 6 to 8 hrs.
It makes a good start anyway lol.

Here's an excellent read about this very topic of whether or not to test for 24 hrs by a very respected member here at OCN. http://www.overclock.net/t/990229/stress-testing-warning/20#post_13127125

If all you do is game, have no important data and don't mind the possibility of an occasional reinstall of windows/games etc than no, many do not test for 24 hrs IMHO.

If you value your data than yes IMO.

Besides it just feels good to be able to claim and prove you've done your work correctly


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Wow, I really like this IBT AVX program, it only froze on me once, since then I've been increasing the VCORE, managed to pass the Very High test @ 4.6Ghz with 1.416v, and a max temp of 59ºC, so I started doing the Maximum stress test, it passed two phases and failed the third, tomorrow I'll add a bit more voltage, but before that, I'd like to know what max temp running these stress test do you guys recommend.


AMD says 72c max on Core using AMD's AOD and Thermal Margin.


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> AMD says 72c max on Core using AMD's AOD and Thermal Margin.


Wow, that's some nice test results, and damn that Motherboard and CPU are excellent, If I could afford those I definitively would, I'm ASUS all the way too.

And yes, I am fortunate that I never lost any data due to bad overclocking, but also think it's best to test an OC thoroughly than just leaving it not fully tested, it could cause problems sooner or later, I may not have a lot of time to run and keep a watch on things while stress testing, but slowly I'll get there, I'll only stop when I'm sure it's 100% stable.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Wow, I really like this IBT AVX program, it only froze on me once, since then I've been increasing the VCORE, managed to pass the Very High test @ 4.6Ghz with 1.416v, and a max temp of 59ºC, so I started doing the Maximum stress test, it passed two phases and failed the third, tomorrow I'll add a bit more voltage, but before that, I'd like to know what max temp running these stress test do you guys recommend.


may need to bump cpu/nb v


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Wow, I really like this IBT AVX program, it only froze on me once, since then I've been increasing the VCORE, managed to pass the Very High test @ 4.6Ghz with 1.416v, and a max temp of 59ºC, so I started doing the Maximum stress test, it passed two phases and failed the third, tomorrow I'll add a bit more voltage, but before that, I'd like to know what max temp running these stress test do you guys recommend.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> may need to bump cpu/nb v
Click to expand...

Yeah as the max just allocates more RAM usage.


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> may need to bump cpu/nb v


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Yeah as the max just allocates more RAM usage.


I bumped the cpu/nb voltage a bit and will do some test, another n00b question, what is the max recommended cpu/nb voltage? (before I fry my system).


----------



## Mega Man

I am one of the only ones that have grief the cpu nb and I was pushing 1.55-1.6 generally 1.2-1.3 is more then enough


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am one of the only ones that have grief the cpu nb and I was pushing 1.55-1.6 generally 1.2-1.3 is more then enough


Wow, I run into heat issues when I push that high,


----------



## Mega Man

was during my suicide runs !

also to note- it didnt help, it didnt hurt it for a while too, took a few weeks of suicide runs


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am one of the only ones that have grief the cpu nb and I was pushing 1.55-1.6 generally 1.2-1.3 is more then enough


Thanks *Mega Man*, I tried pushing the CPU/NB from 1.2v to 1.3v and did a couple of stress runs, I got random nVidia Display Driver recovery and crashes, hole system freezes, so I reverted back to 1.2, and started adding more VCORE, still the nVidia Display Driver recovers or crashes from time to time now, did I damage something?


----------



## Mega Man

I highly doubt it. Asus will default to 1.4v. And allot of people pushed much father.

Also cpu/nb is the imc. And has nothing to do with video cards /pcie


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> I bumped the cpu/nb voltage a bit and will do some test, another n00b question, what is the max recommended cpu/nb voltage? (before I fry my system).


Always best to start low and just keep testing. I find these chips (my 9590 especially) are so finicky with voltage that sometimes one bump too many is more than enough to cause issues.
Megaman is on it









This what I have from AMD about safe limits


As for the nVidia Display Driver recovery thing, I feel your pain man. I had that for the longest time on my CHIV with a nvidia card. Try an older driver that use to not through the error maybe?
Could also be do to unstable OC. (memory?)

Also you do have *all* the memory specs manually entered in bios correct?
Try additional dram voltage rather than CPU/NB voltage. If that doesn't help try combinations of the two.


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I highly doubt it. Asus will default to 1.4v. And allot of people pushed much father.
> 
> Also cpu/nb is the imc. And has nothing to do with video cards /pcie


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Always best to start low and just keep testing. I find these chips (my 9590 especially) are so finicky with voltage that sometimes one bump too many is more than enough to cause issues.
> Megaman is on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This what I have from AMD about safe limits
> 
> 
> As for the nVidia Display Driver recovery thing, I feel your pain man. I had that for the longest time on my CHIV with a nvidia card. Try an older driver that use to not through the error maybe?
> Could also be do to unstable OC. (memory?)
> 
> Also you do have *all* the memory specs manually entered in bios correct?
> Try additional dram voltage rather than CPU/NB voltage. If that doesn't help try combinations of the two.


Yes, I did increase the CPU/NB voltage gradually and did stress runs, ended up freezing or getting the message of an unstable overclock, so I reduced the CPU/NB voltage all the way back to 1.2v, bumped up the VCORE to 1.440v, started a maximum stress test that ended successfully, I got the nVidia Display Driver has recovered like 3 times, but if its not caused by any kind of damage, then it does not bother me since it's happening only during the maximum stress test.

And yes I have all the memory specs set manually in the bios, I'll also try adding a bit more dram voltage too then, I only did one complete run of the *MAXIMUM* stress test, CPU max temp reached 64ºC, tomorrow I'll try bumping the CPU to 4.7Ghz and do it again, if temps don't reach the 72ºC under stress I'll keep pushing to see how far it goes, maybe I'll be able to reach the 5.0Ghz one day, I'd be very happy if I'm able to.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I highly doubt it. Asus will default to 1.4v. And allot of people pushed much father.
> 
> Also cpu/nb is the imc. And has nothing to do with video cards /pcie
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Always best to start low and just keep testing. I find these chips (my 9590 especially) are so finicky with voltage that sometimes one bump too many is more than enough to cause issues.
> Megaman is on it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This what I have from AMD about safe limits
> 
> 
> As for the nVidia Display Driver recovery thing, I feel your pain man. I had that for the longest time on my CHIV with a nvidia card. Try an older driver that use to not through the error maybe?
> Could also be do to unstable OC. (memory?)
> 
> Also you do have *all* the memory specs manually entered in bios correct?
> Try additional dram voltage rather than CPU/NB voltage. If that doesn't help try combinations of the two.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes, I did increase the CPU/NB voltage gradually and did stress runs, ended up freezing or getting the message of an unstable overclock, so I reduced the CPU/NB voltage all the way back to 1.2v, bumped up the VCORE to 1.440v, started a maximum stress test that ended successfully, I got the nVidia Display Driver has recovered like 3 times, but if its not caused by any kind of damage, then it does not bother me since it's happening only during the maximum stress test.
> 
> And yes I have all the memory specs set manually in the bios, I'll also try adding a bit more dram voltage too then, I only did one complete run of the *MAXIMUM* stress test, CPU max temp reached 64ºC, tomorrow I'll try bumping the CPU to 4.7Ghz and do it again, if temps don't reach the 72ºC under stress I'll keep pushing to see how far it goes, maybe I'll be able to reach the 5.0Ghz one day, I'd be very happy if I'm able to.
Click to expand...

For the crashes, have you cleared out the temp files? sounds strange but it can help. I am a big advocate of keeping a very clean PC at work it fixes so much so quickly


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> For the crashes, have you cleared out the temp files? sounds strange but it can help. I am a big advocate of keeping a very clean PC at work it fixes so much so quickly


*F3ERS 2 ASH3S* do you mean windows temporary files?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> For the crashes, have you cleared out the temp files? sounds strange but it can help. I am a big advocate of keeping a very clean PC at work it fixes so much so quickly
> 
> 
> 
> *F3ERS 2 ASH3S* do you mean windows temporary files?
Click to expand...

Yeah


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Yeah


I'm going to do it right now since my system just froze during stress test.









EDIT: I did it through the Disk Cleanup utility, but read that some people use CCleaner, do you do it any specific way?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Yeah
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to do it right now since my system just froze during stress test.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I did it through the Disk Cleanup utility, but read that some people use CCleaner, do you do it any specific way?
Click to expand...

I do disk cleanup and then manual inspections then again like I said I am a clean freak I don' t let the junks build up too much.


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I do disk cleanup and then manual inspections then again like I said I am a clean freak I don' t let the junks build up too much.


Thanks, I did the same.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I do disk cleanup and then manual inspections then again like I said I am a clean freak I don' t let the junks build up too much.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, I did the same.
Click to expand...

Let us know if you are still having an issue or if that fixed it.


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Let us know if you are still having an issue or if that fixed it.


Hi, I had no time during this weekend and today (family stuff), but since I bumped the CPU RATIO to 23.5 (4.7Ghz), so far I got random crashes or freeze during *IBT AVX MAXIMUM Stress Test*, my current voltages are:

VCORE: 1.452v
DRAM: 1.540v
CPU/NB: 1.225v

And max temp during Maximum stress test reached 64ºC before crash or freeze, tomorrow I'll give it another shot, bumping slowly voltages.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Revolted*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Let us know if you are still having an issue or if that fixed it.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi, I had no time during this weekend and today (family stuff), but since I bumped the CPU RATIO to 23.5 (4.7Ghz), so far I got random crashes or freeze during *IBT AVX MAXIMUM Stress Test*, my current voltages are:
> 
> VCORE: 1.452v
> DRAM: 1.540v
> CPU/NB: 1.225v
> 
> And max temp during Maximum stress test reached 64ºC before crash or freeze, tomorrow I'll give it another shot, bumping slowly voltages.
Click to expand...

I say bump the CPU/NB up to 1.3ish and try that, if not then you will need more vcore


----------



## Revolted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> I say bump the CPU/NB up to 1.3ish and try that, if not then you will need more vcore


Okay, I'll do that tomorrow.









EDIT: Wowoooooooo, I finally completed a full *IBT AVX MAXIMUM* Strest Test @ 4.7Ghz, the CPU reached 70ºC during the test but the 1.3v on the CPU/NB really made a difference, thanks again guys, I'm pushing it to 4.8Ghz tomorrow with the same voltages I had with 4.7Ghz, if I manage to pass another test without reaching the 72ºC, do you guys think I should keep the VCORE voltage as it is or decrease it a little? Another question, can I even stress test the CPU beyond the 72ºC limit recommended by AMD during the stress test, lets say, like reach 80ºC during stress test, I'm not risking more that than, and will not risk it at all if you guys tell me not to.









EDIT 2: I think 4.7Ghz may be the highest overclock I can get out of my CPU and still be stable, I've tried about 20 more maximum stress tests today @ 4.8Ghz, reaching, VCORE: 1.5v, CPU/NB: 1.45v and DRAM: 1.6v, the system froze every single time, if there is anything else I can try, let me know guys, and thank you all for the help so far.


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Been reading through this. Does CPU/NB voltage really help even if you don't oc the CPU/NB frequency? The highest I've set it is 1.25volts


----------



## Mega Man

Yes it can 0.1-0.15 is more then enough generally


----------



## TheGrymelocke

I'm not using offset. If I were to use offset (I heard it is more stable and cooler) where would I start?


----------



## Mega Man

That does not matter you take stock volts and add that value to it. Same with offset ( cpu/nb is 1.1v default )

So offset you would do +0.1-0.15v
Manual you would do 1.2 or 1.25.

Offset isn't cooler unless you use cnq (cool n quiet )

Vcore can vary. You need to turn off all power saving stuff ( cnq, apm c1e c6 ) and turbo then reboot to see vid, or use a program like hwinfo

Generally in the 1.2-1.3ish range

Same idea though. If your vid is 1.3 and you want 1.4 ( vcore )
Manual 1.4
Offset +0.1


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Ah ok. That makes sense lol. Thank you!


----------



## Mega Man

No


----------



## Furanku

Hi guys, I had a little question and figured someone here might be able to offer advice.
I didn't find much on this topic at all, so here goes:

I have an FX8350 on a crosshair formula z. I have it running stable at 4.7.
Now I would actually like to mimic the 9590 and enable the turbo so it can boost under single threaded loads to 4.9-5GHz.
I tried this and manually set the turbo to the desired multiplier in the bios but it did not work.

Do I need to re-enable anything else in the power saving options (they are all disabled) for to it to boost the clocks correctly?
Any caveats to this whole idea?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furanku*
> 
> Hi guys, I had a little question and figured someone here might be able to offer advice.
> I didn't find much on this topic at all, so here goes:
> 
> I have an FX8350 on a crosshair formula z. I have it running stable at 4.7.
> Now I would actually like to mimic the 9590 and enable the turbo so it can boost under single threaded loads to 4.9-5GHz.
> I tried this and manually set the turbo to the desired multiplier in the bios but it did not work.
> 
> Do I need to re-enable anything else in the power saving options (they are all disabled) for to it to boost the clocks correctly?
> Any caveats to this whole idea?


You need to enable the c states and APM I believe. Also for it to work correctly you will need to also use offset voltage as opposed to set voltage


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furanku*
> 
> Hi guys, I had a little question and figured someone here might be able to offer advice.
> I didn't find much on this topic at all, so here goes:
> 
> I have an FX8350 on a crosshair formula z. I have it running stable at 4.7.
> Now I would actually like to mimic the 9590 and enable the turbo so it can boost under single threaded loads to 4.9-5GHz.
> I tried this and manually set the turbo to the desired multiplier in the bios but it did not work.
> 
> Do I need to re-enable anything else in the power saving options (they are all disabled) for to it to boost the clocks correctly?
> Any caveats to this whole idea?


It won't work. Turbo needs APM to work. BUT, APM's job is to ensure that the CPU won't exceed the nominal TDP. The nominal TDP of 8350 is 125W. At 4.7Ghz you are already way beyond that. So in the hypothesis that you would do that and it would work, you 'd cause the CPU to throttle, in order to get back to the 125W limit.

So, forget the turbo once you 've overclocked. Besides, i don't think you 'd notice the difference.


----------



## Furanku

Cool thanks for the info! I guess I will drop the idea then XD


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Furanku*
> 
> Hi guys, I had a little question and figured someone here might be able to offer advice.
> I didn't find much on this topic at all, so here goes:
> 
> I have an FX8350 on a crosshair formula z. I have it running stable at 4.7.
> Now I would actually like to mimic the 9590 and enable the turbo so it can boost under single threaded loads to 4.9-5GHz.
> I tried this and manually set the turbo to the desired multiplier in the bios but it did not work.
> 
> Do I need to re-enable anything else in the power saving options (they are all disabled) for to it to boost the clocks correctly?
> Any caveats to this whole idea?
> 
> 
> 
> It won't work. Turbo needs APM to work. BUT, APM's job is to ensure that the CPU won't exceed the nominal TDP. The nominal TDP of 8350 is 125W. At 4.7Ghz you are already way beyond that. So in the hypothesis that you would do that and it would work, you 'd cause the CPU to throttle, in order to get back to the 125W limit.
> 
> So, forget the turbo once you 've overclocked. Besides, i don't think you 'd notice the difference.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furanku*
> 
> Cool thanks for the info! I guess I will drop the idea then XD


Actually that is false.. in the Digi options you can adjust the power limits allowed especially on that board.


----------



## Furanku

Good to know, I will take another look later.


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Actually that is false.. in the Digi options you can adjust the power limits allowed especially on that board.


It is not.
The current capability options in "DIGI+ Power Control" page in bios have nothing to do with CPU power management (Apm). They just control the OCP activation threshold of the VRM.


----------



## The Sandman

Something more to consider here is the lack of cooling for 4.8.
A H80i GT ain't gonna cut it IMHO.

Most notice a huge difference in temps from 4.7 to 4.8GHz and of those most can't run extended stress tests (24 hr Prime95 etc) due to temps.
A lot struggle in this range that have a "working" cooling solution as it's always chip dependent, just saying.

What do you currently see for temps?
Just curious.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Actually that is false.. in the Digi options you can adjust the power limits allowed especially on that board.
> 
> 
> 
> It is not.
> The current capability options in "DIGI+ Power Control" page in bios have nothing to do with CPU power management (Apm). They just control the OCP activation threshold of the VRM.
Click to expand...

incorrect

CPU Power Duty Control can be set to Extreme to force the Extreme Engine DIGI+ III to function with respect to its maximum possible current delivery instead of a balanced temperature for a better delivery of power to the CPU integrated voltage regulator. This can also help to gain just a little more margin when trying to push CPU frequency to its max.

CPU Power Thermal Control can be set to a higher value when experiencing CPU throttling problems due to overheating Extreme Engine DIGI+ III. We recommended leaving this setting at default for all normal O.C., to ensure that the safe operating margins of the onboard CPU voltage supply are not breached. If experiencing throttling, the best advice is to cool the onboard Extreme Engine DIGI+ III with a fan to reduce temperature rather than altering this setting.

You assumed something else..
















Not saying that it is the absolute thing however those options will adjust how apm works to keep it from auto throttling.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furanku*
> 
> Good to know, I will take another look later.


Well, you 've got nothing to lose if you try what F3ERS 2 ASH3S says. I have ran only modest motherboards, that don't have such fancy settings to allow APM manipulation.


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> incorrect
> 
> CPU Power Duty Control can be set to Extreme to force the Extreme Engine DIGI+ III to function with respect to its maximum possible current delivery instead of a balanced temperature for a better delivery of power to the CPU integrated voltage regulator. This can also help to gain just a little more margin when trying to push CPU frequency to its max.
> 
> CPU Power Thermal Control can be set to a higher value when experiencing CPU throttling problems due to overheating Extreme Engine DIGI+ III. We recommended leaving this setting at default for all normal O.C., to ensure that the safe operating margins of the onboard CPU voltage supply are not breached. If experiencing throttling, the best advice is to cool the onboard Extreme Engine DIGI+ III with a fan to reduce temperature rather than altering this setting.
> 
> You assumed something else..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not saying that it is the absolute thing however those options will adjust how apm works to keep it from auto throttling.












There is no such thing as "Extreme Engine DIGI+ III". It is CHL8328 VRM controller with ASUS text on it. These options change the VRM parameters and nothing else. There is no "integrated voltage regulator" on AMD CPUs either.

CPU Current Capability = CPU OCP (per phase)
CPU Power Phase Control = Phase shedding
CPU Power Response Control = Phase current imbalance control (threshold to add or drop phases)

Apm is configured by CPU fuses (during manufacturing) and no "Extreme Engine DIGI+ III" can change it´s parameters








If you want to reconfigure Apm you need to use JTAG (HDT).


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> incorrect
> 
> CPU Power Duty Control can be set to Extreme to force the Extreme Engine DIGI+ III to function with respect to its maximum possible current delivery instead of a balanced temperature for a better delivery of power to the CPU integrated voltage regulator. This can also help to gain just a little more margin when trying to push CPU frequency to its max.
> 
> CPU Power Thermal Control can be set to a higher value when experiencing CPU throttling problems due to overheating Extreme Engine DIGI+ III. We recommended leaving this setting at default for all normal O.C., to ensure that the safe operating margins of the onboard CPU voltage supply are not breached. If experiencing throttling, the best advice is to cool the onboard Extreme Engine DIGI+ III with a fan to reduce temperature rather than altering this setting.
> 
> You assumed something else..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not saying that it is the absolute thing however those options will adjust how apm works to keep it from auto throttling.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is no such thing as "Extreme Engine DIGI+ III". It is CHL8328 VRM controller with ASUS text on it. These options change the VRM parameters and nothing else. There is no "integrated voltage regulator" on AMD CPUs either.
> 
> CPU Current Capability = CPU OCP (per phase)
> CPU Power Phase Control = Phase shedding
> CPU Power Response Control = Phase current imbalance control (threshold to add or drop phases)
> 
> Apm is configured by CPU fuses (during manufacturing) and no "Extreme Engine DIGI+ III" can change it´s parameters
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you want to reconfigure Apm you need to use JTAG (HDT).
Click to expand...

So what you are saying is that the turbo clock that I had played with on my kitty did not work cause APM would throttle it to 125w TDP however it had seemed to work just as it should and I listed how I had to do it../...

Also yea the Digi version that I referenced was a quick google to get the description of it.. http://rog.asus.com/technology/republic-of-gamers-motherboard-innovations/extreme-engine-digi-iii/

Also it does exist.. just on intel .. however same options apply on the AMD kitty and crosshair

Thus by your explanation would mean that this is wrong.. " Drivers can use APM function calls to notify the BIOS about CPU usage, but it is up to the BIOS to act on this information; a driver cannot directly tell the CPU to go into a power saving state." which it is not.. ultimately it goes back to the power threshold set in the BIOS and back to the Digi options that I stated before hand.

So ill correct the digi.. its Extreme Engine Digi+ II just to be correct on the version of it... (ASUS calls it what it wants.)

Also noticed that you pointed out and skipped what I was talking about entirely.. :
CPU Power Duty Control
CPU Power Thermal Control

Which are not:
CPU Current Capability
CPU Power Phase Control
CPU Power Response Control


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> So what you are saying is that the turbo clock that I had played with on my kitty did not work cause APM would throttle it to 125w TDP however it had seemed to work just as it should and I listed how I had to do it../...


Turbo is active when certain number of the cores are power gated (C6). Obviously the power draw will be lower when less units are active / used. The default 125W TDP limit is most definitely sufficient when all of the cores are not used. When Apm is enabled you will definitely see throttling if you overclock and fully stress the CPU. If Apm is active and the TDP limit is exceeded, the CPU will throttle until the power consumption falls below the TDP limit.

When Apm is disabled the CPU cannot measure it´s power consumption and there is no power related throttling. Killing Apm will kill Turbo at the same time, since without the ability to measure the power consumption the CPU cannot determine when to activate or deactivate the boost. Likewise disabling C6 state will disable the highest boost state with power gating requirement (usually half of the compute units).


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> So what you are saying is that the turbo clock that I had played with on my kitty did not work cause APM would throttle it to 125w TDP however it had seemed to work just as it should and I listed how I had to do it../...
> 
> 
> 
> Turbo is active when certain number of the cores are power gated (C6). Obviously the power draw will be lower when less units are active / used. The default 125W TDP limit is most definitely sufficient when all of the cores are not used. When Apm is enabled you will definitely see throttling if you overclock and fully stress the CPU. If Apm is active and the TDP limit is exceeded, the CPU will throttle until the power consumption falls below the TDP limit.
> 
> When Apm is disabled the CPU cannot measure it´s power consumption and there is no power related throttling. Killing Apm will kill Turbo at the same time, since without the ability to measure the power consumption the CPU cannot determine when to activate or deactivate the boost. Likewise disabling C6 state will disable the highest boost state with power gating requirement (usually half of the compute units).
Click to expand...

Well yes,, and thats what I stated in my first post about that.. However the ASUS Bios options help negate that by allowing higher thermal before APM throttles.. IF that was not true then even hitting 4.7Ghz with Turbo to 5 like the 9570 would mean that it would have to allow a TDP of 220w

which would throttle under normal situations, however.. with the options in the Digi controls on the Upper end boards from ASUS you can tweak a little to what the BIOS would allow for TDP.. APM does act on switching however still requires the BIOS to control actual changes. and thats how it can be modified.

So yes it is possible to set a 8350 to the same parameters as the 9570


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Well yes,, and thats what I stated in my first post about that.. However the ASUS Bios options help negate that by allowing higher thermal before APM throttles.. IF that was not true then even hitting 4.7Ghz with Turbo to 5 like the 9570 would mean that it would have to allow a TDP of 220w
> 
> which would throttle under normal situations, however.. with the options in the Digi controls on the Upper end boards from ASUS you can tweak a little to what the BIOS would allow for TDP.. APM does act on switching however still requires the BIOS to control actual changes. and thats how it can be modified.
> 
> So yes it is possible to set a 8350 to the same parameters as the 9570












But the 9570 DOES come out of factory with the TDP limit scheduled for 220W. That's why the turbo works for any motherboard that supports it and not just for ASUS.

If the 8350 would remain at 125W with turbo to 5Ghz, why didn't AMD put its turbo to 5Ghz? It would be a selling point!

The turbo, will try to kick in on half the cores too (when 4 are idle, it will try to turboboost the other 4). So you 'd need to have 4 cores at 5Ghz, not exceeding 125W. How likely is that if these 4 cores are actually fully loaded? The FX 4350 certainly can't hit 5Ghz at 125W. So how is this going to be done?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Well yes,, and thats what I stated in my first post about that.. However the ASUS Bios options help negate that by allowing higher thermal before APM throttles.. IF that was not true then even hitting 4.7Ghz with Turbo to 5 like the 9570 would mean that it would have to allow a TDP of 220w
> 
> which would throttle under normal situations, however.. with the options in the Digi controls on the Upper end boards from ASUS you can tweak a little to what the BIOS would allow for TDP.. APM does act on switching however still requires the BIOS to control actual changes. and thats how it can be modified.
> 
> So yes it is possible to set a 8350 to the same parameters as the 9570
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the 9570 DOES come out of factory with the TDP limit scheduled for 220W. That's why the turbo works for any motherboard that supports it and not just for ASUS.
> 
> If the 8350 would remain at 125W with turbo to 5Ghz, why didn't AMD put its turbo to 5Ghz? It would be a selling point!
> 
> The turbo, will try to kick in on half the cores too (when 4 are idle, it will try to turboboost the other 4). So you 'd need to have 4 cores at 5Ghz, not exceeding 125W. How likely is that if these 4 cores are actually fully loaded? The FX 4350 certainly can't hit 5Ghz at 125W. So how is this going to be done?
Click to expand...

you got confused lol or I didn't say it well enough.. I was talking about ocerclocking a 8350 to the same stats as a 9570 meaning the 8350 would have the 125TDP from factory that it would have to overcome to reach the 220w that the 9570 is....

and that was part of my point. TheStilt and I where discussing the Digi options that allow the TDP to be raised in order to do so in the BIOS itself.

what you are saying is the example that I was putting forth, meaning if those options did not exist in BIOS to modify it, then APM would throttle at 125w on the 4 cores as you pointed out.

essentially I am saying that the BIOS can and would need to do so to overcome the APM throttle. which was back to my original post on the subject saying what options that need to be changed are.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> you got confused lol or I didn't say it well enough.. I was talking about ocerclocking a 8350 to the same stats as a 9570 meaning the 8350 would have the 125TDP from factory that it would have to overcome to reach the 220w that the 9570 is....
> 
> and that was part of my point. TheStilt and I where discussing the Digi options that allow the TDP to be raised in order to do so in the BIOS itself.
> 
> what you are saying is the example that I was putting forth, meaning if those options did not exist in BIOS to modify it, then APM would throttle at 125w on the 4 cores as you pointed out.
> 
> essentially I am saying that the BIOS can and would need to do so to overcome the APM throttle. which was back to my original post on the subject saying what options that need to be changed are.


Yeah, i can't follow. I find all this confusing. I mean, the only way i see to have an 8350 work at the same turbo values of 9570 , is if the motherboard can manipulate the APM limit that exists on the CPU out of factory. If ASUS can do that, well, that's certainly a novelty to me and kudos to ASUS for managing this unique feat. Because all these years, overclockers were disabling APM and turbo thinking it would only hinder them.

Oh well, like i said, the OP can try. He can set turbo to 5Ghz, get Prime95 and set 3 or 4 threads and see if turbo works or if it gets throttling. Can't hurt trying.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> you got confused lol or I didn't say it well enough.. I was talking about ocerclocking a 8350 to the same stats as a 9570 meaning the 8350 would have the 125TDP from factory that it would have to overcome to reach the 220w that the 9570 is....
> 
> and that was part of my point. TheStilt and I where discussing the Digi options that allow the TDP to be raised in order to do so in the BIOS itself.
> 
> what you are saying is the example that I was putting forth, meaning if those options did not exist in BIOS to modify it, then APM would throttle at 125w on the 4 cores as you pointed out.
> 
> essentially I am saying that the BIOS can and would need to do so to overcome the APM throttle. which was back to my original post on the subject saying what options that need to be changed are.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, i can't follow. I find all this confusing. I mean, the only way i see to have an 8350 work at the same turbo values of 9570 , is if the motherboard can manipulate the APM limit that exists on the CPU out of factory. If ASUS can do that, well, that's certainly a novelty to me and kudos to ASUS for managing this unique feat. Because all these years, overclockers were disabling APM and turbo thinking it would only hinder them.
> 
> Oh well, like i said, the OP can try. He can set turbo to 5Ghz, get Prime95 and set 3 or 4 threads and see if turbo works or if it gets throttling. Can't hurt trying.
Click to expand...

Essentially thats what these are.. Since APM still has to report back to BIOS any way before the power gating happens.

CPU Power Duty Control can be set to Extreme to force function with respect to its maximum possible current delivery instead of a balanced temperature for a better delivery of power to the CPU integrated voltage regulator. This can also help to gain just a little more margin when trying to push CPU frequency to its max.

CPU Power Thermal Control can be set to a higher value when experiencing CPU throttling problems due to overheating DIGI+ II. We recommended leaving this setting at default for all normal O.C., to ensure that the safe operating margins of the onboard CPU voltage supply are not breached. If experiencing throttling, the best advice is to cool the onboard Extreme Engine DIGI+ III with a fan to reduce temperature rather than altering this setting.


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Well yes,, and thats what I stated in my first post about that.. However the ASUS Bios options help negate that by allowing higher thermal before APM throttles.. IF that was not true then even hitting 4.7Ghz with Turbo to 5 like the 9570 would mean that it would have to allow a TDP of 220w
> 
> which would throttle under normal situations, however.. with the options in the Digi controls on the Upper end boards from ASUS you can tweak a little to what the BIOS would allow for TDP.. APM does act on switching however still requires the BIOS to control actual changes. and thats how it can be modified.
> 
> So yes it is possible to set a 8350 to the same parameters as the 9570


As I said before, these options do not change any CPU related setting (only VRM). With Apm on FX-8370E throttles when the power draw exceeds 95W, FX-8370 throttles when it exceeds 125W and FX-9370 & FX-9590 throttle when 220W is exceeded.

These options are completely unrelated and the TDP limits cannot be changed (they are read only). The only AMD chips that support configurable TDP (cTDP) are APUs (Richland, Kaveri, Carrizo).


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Essentially thats what these are.. Since APM still has to report back to BIOS any way before the power gating happens.
> 
> CPU Power Duty Control can be set to Extreme to force function with respect to its maximum possible current delivery instead of a balanced temperature for a better delivery of power to the CPU integrated voltage regulator. This can also help to gain just a little more margin when trying to push CPU frequency to its max.
> 
> CPU Power Thermal Control can be set to a higher value when experiencing CPU throttling problems due to overheating DIGI+ II. We recommended leaving this setting at default for all normal O.C., to ensure that the safe operating margins of the onboard CPU voltage supply are not breached. If experiencing throttling, the best advice is to cool the onboard Extreme Engine DIGI+ III with a fan to reduce temperature rather than altering this setting.


All wrong again, sorry.
The CPU doesn´t report anything back to bios.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Essentially thats what these are.. Since APM still has to report back to BIOS any way before the power gating happens.
> 
> CPU Power Duty Control can be set to Extreme to force function with respect to its maximum possible current delivery instead of a balanced temperature for a better delivery of power to the CPU integrated voltage regulator. This can also help to gain just a little more margin when trying to push CPU frequency to its max.
> 
> CPU Power Thermal Control can be set to a higher value when experiencing CPU throttling problems due to overheating DIGI+ II. We recommended leaving this setting at default for all normal O.C., to ensure that the safe operating margins of the onboard CPU voltage supply are not breached. If experiencing throttling, the best advice is to cool the onboard Extreme Engine DIGI+ III with a fan to reduce temperature rather than altering this setting.
> 
> 
> 
> All wrong again, sorry.
> The CPU doesn´t report anything back to bios.
Click to expand...

Then how does the information for APM get passed into windows

https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/242414

And how does APM know when to actuate?


----------



## chrisjames61

Why would anyone question The Stilt on these matters?


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> Why would anyone question The Stilt on these matters?


Cause I like to live dangerously


----------



## The Stilt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *F3ERS 2 ASH3S*
> 
> Then how does the information for APM get passed into windows
> 
> https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/kb/242414


"Advanced Power Management" and AMD´s "Application Power Management" are two completely different things. Neither are controlled by any of the "Digi+" options thou. Apm has been used in AMD APUs and CPUs since 15h family.

Page 65: http://support.amd.com/TechDocs/42301_15h_Mod_00h-0Fh_BKDG.pdf


----------



## Furanku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> What do you currently see for temps?
> Just curious.


Yeah you are right about the thermals becoming an issue when going from 4.7 to 4.8. It needs a good chunk of extra voltage.
At my current settings i peak at 52-54 with an ambient 20 in the room.

Also, after some testing (and thanks to all the in-depth knowledge here) reproducing the exact FX9590 settings on the 8350 seems quite impossible without some serious tinkering and extreme undervolting perhaps.

I tried a few times now and ran prime95 on a single core to see if it would boost all the way, but other than the occasional brief spike to 5GHz, it remained and hovered at just 4100MHz during the test.

But then again, I am not the most experienced guy when it comes to this stuff and I consider myself a fairly casual overclocker.
So I'll stick to my 4.7 on all cores since I need a stable work station/gaming platform.


----------



## alex8714

Hi everyone i am a beginner at overclocking and i would like to get some more knowledge then the nice read i just got here.
I have a Amd fx-8320 3.5GHz and a corsair H60I cooler, after i read and did exactly what it said i was running prime95 and it got to 70 degrees celsius within first 2 min of testing first time on the 500mhz extra on the multiplier so total of 4.0GHz. If anyone could help me that would be great. I would like to reach between 4.5 - 4.7 if possible and temps under 60 degrees. Thank you all.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex8714*
> 
> Hi everyone i am a beginner at overclocking and i would like to get some more knowledge then the nice read i just got here.
> I have a Amd fx-8320 3.5GHz and a corsair H60I cooler, after i read and did exactly what it said i was running prime95 and it got to 70 degrees celsius within first 2 min of testing first time on the 500mhz extra on the multiplier so total of 4.0GHz. If anyone could help me that would be great. I would like to reach between 4.5 - 4.7 if possible and temps under 60 degrees. Thank you all.


Welcome to OCN!

Before recommending more than the obvious please give this a read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
It makes it much easier for those helping you if we know what your system contains.

The H60i is most likely the cause for the temps you're seeing.
It "might" work for stock but probably nothing more. Have you tried to re-apply TIM?

I'll wait to share more info rather than ask a hundred and one questions


----------



## alex8714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> Before recommending more than the obvious please give this a read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> It makes it much easier for those helping you if we know what your system contains.
> 
> The H60i is most likely the cause for the temps you're seeing.
> It "might" work for stock but probably nothing more. Have you tried to re-apply TIM?
> 
> I'll wait to share more info rather than ask a hundred and one questions


Thanks man.
I have not went with other thermal paste yet since i just wanted the system to be up and running. Would it be better with a blower style cooler instead added specs in sig also here: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/alex8714/saved/kJ8gXL


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex8714*
> 
> Thanks man.
> I have not went with other thermal paste yet since i just wanted the system to be up and running. Would it be better with a blower style cooler instead added specs in sig also here: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/alex8714/saved/kJ8gXL


If by "blower style" you mean air cooling, I don't think you'd see a ton of improvement as the case looks a little cramped.

You might consider something like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-h220-x-dual-120mm-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html#Additional-Information
If you anticipate wanting to add onto your cooling solution this may be the way to go.

This is probably the minimum I would recommend.

It's also recommended to add some active cooling over the VRM area.
The stock HS fan (or old case fan) can make a nice difference when mounted to the VRM HS/Socket area (zip ties, screw etc)
This helps prevent heat soak from VRM's to CPU Socket, remember you removed any air flow when you removed the stock HS/fan.

Appears you don't have a lot of space so make the most out of what you have.
Make sure fans are not the "silent" type, you'll need/want the air flow when things warm up.


----------



## alex8714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> If by "blower style" you mean air cooling, I don't think you'd see a ton of improvement as the case looks a little cramped.
> 
> You might consider something like this http://www.performance-pcs.com/swiftech-h220-x-dual-120mm-cpu-liquid-cooling-kit.html#Additional-Information
> If you anticipate wanting to add onto your cooling solution this may be the way to go.
> 
> This is probably the minimum I would recommend.
> 
> It's also recommended to add some active cooling over the VRM area.
> The stock HS fan (or old case fan) can make a nice difference when mounted to the VRM HS/Socket area (zip ties, screw etc)
> This helps prevent heat soak from VRM's to CPU Socket, remember you removed any air flow when you removed the stock HS/fan.
> 
> Appears you don't have a lot of space so make the most out of what you have.
> Make sure fans are not the "silent" type, you'll need/want the air flow when things warm up.


the thing is if i put that rad in front of my case cause that is the only place it will fit then i will get hot air directly into my case right now its blowing out in the vent in the back. I will see what the temps will do when i get my 140mm fan on the top and 2 in the front rn i have 2 120mm fans in the front (they are air intake).


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex8714*
> 
> the thing is if i put that rad in front of my case cause that is the only place it will fit then i will get hot air directly into my case right now its blowing out in the vent in the back. I will see what the temps will do when i get my 140mm fan on the top and 2 in the front rn i have 2 120mm fans in the front (they are air intake).


I run all three of my rads (RX360, RS360 and EX140) as intake blowing into my case.
It's more efficient to draw cool/fresh air from outside directly into rads rather than somewhat preheated air from within the case.

Yes you'll have hot air blowing into case but really it's not a factor as it just passes through.
The smaller the surface area of rad equals, the more important this becomes.

Sounds as if it defies logic I know but I believe the H60i mounting instructions touch on this don't they?
To sum things up my setup runs a total of ten intake fans (7 on rads, 2 on left side cover and 1 behind mobo tray) and one 140mm as exhaust.


----------



## alex8714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I run all three of my rads (RX360, RS360 and EX140) as intake blowing into my case.
> It's more efficient to draw cool/fresh air from outside directly into rads rather than somewhat preheated air from within the case.
> 
> Yes you'll have hot air blowing into case but really it's not a factor as it just passes through.
> The smaller the surface area of rad equals, the more important this becomes.
> 
> Sounds as if it defies logic I know but I believe the H60i mounting instructions touch on this don't they?
> To sum things up my setup runs a total of ten intake fans (7 on rads, 2 on left side cover and 1 behind mobo tray) and one 140mm as exhaust.


I could mount it as an intake and then have the front of the case as exaust but the case manual recommends the front as intake.


----------



## The Sandman

I'd mount it in the top as intake with a push (or push/pull) fan setup.
The rear exhaust will do what's necessary and yes keep front as intake.

Or,
Swiftech H220x in front as intake and second rad in the top as intake and maybe a little upgrade to rear exhaust fan.

Consider an external mounted rad (XSPC Rasa kits). I use to run a RS360 externally. It came with mounting brackets which attached to the outside of the case at the rear exhaust fan location.
This would allow you to add the GPU into the loop in the future. It really pays to think ahead.


----------



## alex8714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I'd mount it in the top as intake with a push (or push/pull) fan setup.
> The rear exhaust will do what's necessary and yes keep front as intake.
> 
> Or,
> Swiftech H220x in front as intake and second rad in the top as intake and maybe a little upgrade to rear exhaust fan.
> 
> Consider an external mounted rad (XSPC Rasa kits). I use to run a RS360 externally. It came with mounting brackets which attached to the outside of the case at the rear exhaust fan location.
> This would allow you to add the GPU into the loop in the future. It really pays to think ahead.


cant mount it correctly on the top since the ram sticks are blocking the rad and fan because they are both to thick together. And definitely cant get push pull setup on it. I did set it up with a pull config and i will test it out and mounting my extra fan at the back as exhaust. or what if i take the back as intake and the top as exhaust because i have no top fan atm i simply had push pull at the back on the rad.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Furanku*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> What do you currently see for temps?
> Just curious.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah you are right about the thermals becoming an issue when going from 4.7 to 4.8. It needs a good chunk of extra voltage.
> At my current settings i peak at 52-54 with an ambient 20 in the room.
> 
> Also, after some testing (and thanks to all the in-depth knowledge here) reproducing the exact FX9590 settings on the 8350 seems quite impossible without some serious tinkering and extreme undervolting perhaps.
> 
> I tried a few times now and ran prime95 on a single core to see if it would boost all the way, but other than the occasional brief spike to 5GHz, it remained and hovered at just 4100MHz during the test.
> 
> But then again, I am not the most experienced guy when it comes to this stuff and I consider myself a fairly casual overclocker.
> So I'll stick to my 4.7 on all cores since I need a stable work station/gaming platform.
Click to expand...

in my experiance i never saw turbo active with win 7 and above as it tends to schedule things well enough anyway ( on my 8350 i could hit 4.1 24/7 but never 4.2 )
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex8714*
> 
> Hi everyone i am a beginner at overclocking and i would like to get some more knowledge then the nice read i just got here.
> I have a Amd fx-8320 3.5GHz and a corsair H60I cooler, after i read and did exactly what it said i was running prime95 and it got to 70 degrees celsius within first 2 min of testing first time on the 500mhz extra on the multiplier so total of 4.0GHz. If anyone could help me that would be great. I would like to reach between 4.5 - 4.7 if possible and temps under 60 degrees. Thank you all.


to add to the above ( fan on vrms!!! )
witho your cooler i bet you can hit ~ 4-4. at least
asus can ( on certain bios ) put cpu/nb to 1.4v, this is excessive and will cause high heat. also LLC if not changed usually is set to extreme ( auto = extreme ) --- in most cases
other then that we will need bios screen shots- fat32 formatted usb drive- put into usb2.0 usb slot and press f12 will tka epics of everything on your screen


----------



## alex8714

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> in my experiance i never saw turbo active with win 7 and above as it tends to schedule things well enough anyway ( on my 8350 i could hit 4.1 24/7 but never 4.2 )
> to add to the above ( fan on vrms!!! )
> witho your cooler i bet you can hit ~ 4-4. at least
> asus can ( on certain bios ) put cpu/nb to 1.4v, this is excessive and will cause high heat. also LLC if not changed usually is set to extreme ( auto = extreme ) --- in most cases
> other then that we will need bios screen shots- fat32 formatted usb drive- put into usb2.0 usb slot and press f12 will tka epics of everything on your screen


Here are my bios.
http://imgur.com/a/zyPXe


----------



## Mega Man

imo-

take cpu-nb to 1.2 ( generally enough you may need to take it to 1.25 but this adds heat the less you can use the better )
np to 1.2 ram set to 1.525 ( to combat any voltage drop )
LLc to high
cpu/nb llc regular

if you have a fan on the vrms 21

cpu power phase control - extreme --- this will cause vrm heat, do not do this without a fan on vrms !!!
cpu power response control either medium or fast ( ultra is fine but it makes the vrms very hot )

that is where i would start !


----------



## CTAG

Another person in search of help









I'm overclocking the 8350 in my desktop, and bumping up against a wall around 4.6GHz. I think that's an OK place to heave anchor since I've still got an eye for high stability, but it'd be nice if someone could look over my settings and weigh in.

I tried to follow this guide closely, but some of the settings simply didn't work out on my machine.

I'm discussing the rig in my signature, but the short details are:
- AMD 8350
- Gigabyte 990-FXA-UD7
- Noctua NH-D14 cooler

System settings:
- DRAM: 1.5V
- CPU/NB: 2200Mhz
- HT Link: 2600Mhz
- Host clock: 210Mhz
- Clock multiplier: 22
- VCore: 1.44V
- LLC: Ultra High

Temperatures while loading the system with a prime number cruncher are around 50C.

If I touch the HT Link or CPU/NB speed, the system fails to POST.
Any higher frequency -- via either NB or multiplier -- and the system will boot, but fail checksums on the stress tool.

Next time I'm in bios I'll double check those numbers.


----------



## umeng2002

More voltage. My 8320e is stable at 1.44v (hwinfo reading in Windows - that's not vdroop though). Since your LLC is already high, increase the vcore.

Off the top of my head, I forget my vdroop, although I know its a little above 1.416v.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTAG*
> 
> Another person in search of help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm overclocking the 8350 in my desktop, and bumping up against a wall around 4.6GHz. I think that's an OK place to heave anchor since I've still got an eye for high stability, but it'd be nice if someone could look over my settings and weigh in.
> 
> I tried to follow this guide closely, but some of the settings simply didn't work out on my machine.
> 
> I'm discussing the rig in my signature, but the short details are:
> - AMD 8350
> - Gigabyte 990-FXA-UD7
> - Noctua NH-D14 cooler
> 
> System settings:
> - DRAM: 1.5V
> - CPU/NB: 2200Mhz
> - HT Link: 2600Mhz
> - Host clock: 220Mhz
> - Clock multiplier: 21
> - VCore: 1.44V
> - LLC: Ultra High
> 
> Temperatures while loading the system with a prime number cruncher are around 50C.
> 
> If I touch the HT Link or CPU/NB speed, the system fails to POST.
> Any higher frequency -- via either NB or multiplier -- and the system will boot, but fail checksums on the stress tool.
> 
> Next time I'm in bios I'll double check those numbers.


I can help when I get home, basic gist bump nb by 0.1v ( to 1.2 if not done )

Assuming you have a review x12 cpu/nb multi is borked try x13 (2600) and you may/may not need more cpu/nb.

From personal experience ht is hard to oc. You will not be able to stress ht easily, I have to test with dvdfab to stress it, I run 3900 bit it is HIGHLY inadvisable to oc ht,

1 it won't help 99% of people

2 you WILL corrupt your hd and have to reinstall windows several times.

The only time it will really help is 3-4gpus. Your choice.

Other tidbits

Bump ram voltage up to like 1.55 or so.

Recommend some 2133 or 2400 ram

Only change 1 thing at a time and then stability test


----------



## CTAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> More voltage. My 8320e is stable at 1.44v (hwinfo reading in Windows - that's not vdroop though). Since your LLC is already high, increase the vcore.
> 
> Off the top of my head, I forget my vdroop, although I know its a little above 1.416v.


Thanks! I bumped the voltage to 1.49V and am now testing 4.7Ghz, it's lasted longer than initially, though 4.8Ghz still fails quickly. Frankly, I'm getting got cold feet at this voltage.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I can help when I get home, basic gist bump nb by 0.1v ( to 1.2 if not done )
> 
> Assuming you have a review x12 cpu/nb multi is borked try x13 (2600) and you may/may not need more cpu/nb.
> 
> From personal experience ht is hard to oc. You will not be able to stress ht easily, I have to test with dvdfab to stress it, I run 3900 bit it is HIGHLY inadvisable to oc ht,
> 
> 1 it won't help 99% of people
> 
> 2 you WILL corrupt your hd and have to reinstall windows several times.
> 
> The only time it will really help is 3-4gpus. Your choice.
> 
> Other tidbits
> 
> Bump ram voltage up to like 1.55 or so.
> 
> Recommend some 2133 or 2400 ram
> 
> Only change 1 thing at a time and then stability test


Thanks for the tips!

NB Voltage is already 1.25V

I don't see a multiplier (x12) expressly on my bios, but the cpu/nb only works at 2200Mhz for the current settings. The options immediately above it are 2400 and 2600, both cause the system to fail to post.

I've got some 2400 ram, but enabling XMP or bumping the memory multiplier also causes a failure to post. Currently it's clocked around 1680Mhz with the stock 8.00 memory multiplier.

I'm also curious to know if mixing the cpu/nb and clock ratio is OK. I feel like there should be some balance there, but the guide looks like you either bump up the clock ratio or the cpu/nb, but not both..


----------



## Mega Man

This guide is far outdated, I run 300 fsb 2400ram 2600cpunb and 3900ht.

Don't worry about volts several people pushing 1.6-1.7 24/7

If you can cook it you can clock it but verify your vrms are cool


----------



## dogma82

Hi all,

I've been trying to get a nice 24/7 overclock and I think that I'm decided on 4.4ghz (200x22). I'm having a few temp issues at the moment which require some money to rectify and I just can't stretch to it right at the moment, so even at 4.4ghz, the socket is getting a touch warm and into the high 60°C's (max ~68°C). It's fine for now and I generally keep a good eye on it but it will be addressed in the coming weeks.

I can prime @4.0ghz @1.2v but I've decided on 4.4ghx because I can hit that @1.308v idle which loads @1.32v (read by HwInfo64). BIOS reads idle @1.308v so I take these values to be accurate. To get to 4.5ghz I need to up it to 1.344v(load), and for 4.6ghz it takes 1.368v(load). CnQ is disabled at the moment but I do intend to enable it and the other power saving options. (All other settings are exactly as described in the 'Recommended Settings Up To 5.0ghz' section.)

*Is there anything I adjust to lower my socket temps even slightly?* VDDA voltage is @1.2520 (auto) and I already have a fan blowing on the VRM area and it has certainly helped, but really I need a full overhaul inside the case and to reposition my Corsair H70, or just a new case. Are there any other voltages/frequencies which relate directly to socket temp?

*Also, do I have any options for TurboCore at these settings?* I'm not 100% clear on that portion of the guide and have never touched TurboCore apart from disabling it at stock speeds when upping the multi or FSB OC'ing. I have a couple of FSB OCs (240 and 300 work well with my 1600mhz memory) but these seem to increase socket temps even more.

Thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## CTAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> This guide is far outdated, I run 300 fsb 2400ram 2600cpunb and 3900ht.
> 
> Don't worry about volts several people pushing 1.6-1.7 24/7
> 
> If you can cook it you can clock it but verify your vrms are cool


Just did some more testing.

If I leave the clock ratio along and just bump the fsb from 200 to anywhere from 215-230Mhz, the system will fail a stress test pretty quickly. I find that odd, since there should be plenty of voltage, and the core frequency is the same 4.4-4.6 range as before.

If I increase the clock ratio and fsb at the same time, then it clocks up well, but I lose control of the thermal situation around 4.8Ghz and have to stop the stress test because it's getting too hot (socket at 70C, chip at 60C).

Unless dogma82 and I find a way to trim in the voltages and lower the heat output, I think that's a wrap for me, as I'm opposed to liquid cooling at the moment.


----------



## dogma82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTAG*
> 
> Unless dogma82 and I find a way to trim in the voltages and lower the heat output, I think that's a wrap for me, as I'm opposed to liquid cooling at the moment.


My thermal issues are as a result of my rig being in a bad, shared location for the last few months and my own fault for not cleaning her out as regularly as I usually do. I'm not going to do it right now as I am seriously thinking about getting a new case and possibly a Noctua, so I will leave it until I get my current contracts completed and cash in my pocket









I just wondered if there was anything I could shave off, but I know that temps will be under control again soon regardless.

My real question was regarding enabling Turbo Core and how to go about that as I don't find that portion of the guide extremely clear and I have no experience messing with Turbo Core. I wondered if, knowing what voltage I need for 4.6ghz, could I Turbo up to that from 4.4ghz easily? Not much info out there about enabling TurboCore with an existing OC.

Good luck with your tinkering anyways!


----------



## umeng2002

I believe when you set your custom multiplier in your BIOS, it disables the Turbo core stuff.

For the socket temp, a fan behind the socket... cut a hole in the side of your case and put a fan blowing on the back of the mobo... it really works.


----------



## CTAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dogma82*
> 
> Good luck with your tinkering anyways!


You too!

I wouldn't know how to help with the turbo setting







bios settings documentation is pretty bad. Hopefully someone can drop by and set that straight.


----------



## dogma82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> I believe when you set your custom multiplier in your BIOS, it disables the Turbo core stuff.
> 
> For the socket temp, a fan behind the socket... cut a hole in the side of your case and put a fan blowing on the back of the mobo... it really works.


So would it work with with 240*18.5 and a Turbo of 19.5? Unfortunately my RAM doesn't clock too well, so I need to keep the dividers in mind.

Regarding the case, I had seriously considered doing that case mod alright but I am now thinking a newer case might serve me better and possibly even a Noctua. Been looking at the InWin cases as they seem to be the only manufacturer that put side fan mounts on their cases.


----------



## miklkit

What is the batch number of your 8350? Mine is 1244 and 4.8 is all it will do on air. To help further air flow through the case should be optimized. If hot air from the GPU is getting into the CPUs intake air stream it will of course run hotter. Also the I/O port rear panel is creating a dead zone for air flow right where the VRMs are. Removing it helps a bunch. Small changes can have big effects.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTAG*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> This guide is far outdated, I run 300 fsb 2400ram 2600cpunb and 3900ht.
> 
> Don't worry about volts several people pushing 1.6-1.7 24/7
> 
> If you can cook it you can clock it but verify your vrms are cool
> 
> 
> 
> Just did some more testing.
> 
> If I leave the clock ratio along and just bump the fsb from 200 to anywhere from 215-230Mhz, the system will fail a stress test pretty quickly. I find that odd, since there should be plenty of voltage, and the core frequency is the same 4.4-4.6 range as before.
> 
> If I increase the clock ratio and fsb at the same time, then it clocks up well, but I lose control of the thermal situation around 4.8Ghz and have to stop the stress test because it's getting too hot (socket at 70C, chip at 60C).
> 
> Unless dogma82 and I find a way to trim in the voltages and lower the heat output, I think that's a wrap for me, as I'm opposed to liquid cooling at the moment.
Click to expand...

The reason you are failing is simple when you just bumed fsb, you oc ram, cpu/nb, ht, and clockrate


----------



## umeng2002

Honestly, I have my turbo core turned off, so I'm not totally sure. I let Cool n' Quiet handle the throttling. Also, a better CPU cooler would help a bit, but airflow behind in the mobo really works well for socket temps.


----------



## CTAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> The reason you are failing is simple when you just bumed fsb, you oc ram, cpu/nb, ht, and clockrate


I understand you mean that in the best way. I don't have a grasp of the concepts, and my working knowledge is small, mostly just with this motherboard's bios features. So I have this guide to go with, which states to raise the voltage, adjust the clock multiplier, lower voltage, and then replace clock multiplier with fsb. As far as I know, that's more or less what I'm doing.

If there's any more suitable intro-to-bios information you know of online, please sent it my way.


----------



## Mega Man

My advice is stock to multi till you learn your chip.

When you oc by fsb ( real name ht ref ) ( stock at 200 ) you are ocing ram, cpu nb ( imc ), ht ( links to gpu, usb, sata, ect ), cpu speed

You have to know what it takes to keep them stable, or you will be attempting to stabilize all 4 which is hard make changes 1 thing at a time


----------



## A-rank

Hello,

I have a M5A99X with a FX-8350 and a Corsair H55 with 4 x 4 GB Ripjaws Z Series DDR3 2133Mhz.
I'm trying to follow your guide to overclock it up to at least 4,4 ghz, but 2 cores always fail on prime95 blend test, in less then 3 minutes, even with stock configurations. The temps never reach 68C on socket, but never passes.

What can it be? What should I do?
I'm really lost.


----------



## mirzet1976

More info, pictures of CPU-Z for CPU and memory. But in general its allways the same more Voltage to CPU or CPU-NB.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have a M5A99X with a FX-8350 and a Corsair H55 with 4 x 4 GB Ripjaws Z Series DDR3 2133Mhz.
> I'm trying to follow your guide to overclock it up to at least 4,4 ghz, but 2 cores always fail on prime95 blend test, in less then 3 minutes, even with stock configurations. The temps never reach 68C on socket, but never passes.
> 
> What can it be? What should I do?
> I'm really lost.


If it's failing at stock speeds, look at your RAM speed. If you're running it at 2133 MHz, it's overclocked and if the memory controller in the CPU isn't getting enough voltage, it won't be stable.


----------



## player04

My voltage at 1.525vcore, 1.4 cpu nb manual voltage @5ghz

AMD FX8370 w/M5a99fx pro R2.0

> 5ghz
25x200 @2133mhz ram (G.SKILL Ripjaws Z Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000)
Heatkiller water block, swifttech mcp655, swifttech radiator, custom made pvc water reservior in old antec 1200 case.


----------



## miklkit

Nice! It looks like it should stress test well too.


----------



## Mega Man

Don't use potato pics use windows snipping tool or print screen button and then paste into paint


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTAG*
> 
> I understand you mean that in the best way. I don't have a grasp of the concepts, and my working knowledge is small, mostly just with this motherboard's bios features. So I have this guide to go with, which states to raise the voltage, adjust the clock multiplier, lower voltage, and then replace clock multiplier with fsb. As far as I know, that's more or less what I'm doing.
> 
> If there's any more suitable intro-to-bios information you know of online, please sent it my way.


The easiest and most effective thing you can do is just overclock with the multiplier. Forget anything else. I would set your bios to optimized defaults. Reboot and take note of your stock vcore. Then go into your bios and raise that vcore by .1v. Set the multiplier to achieve say 4.5 GHz. Turn off all the power saving crap. Turn off turbo. Save your settings. Reboot and stress test. Watch your vcore and socket temps. Then you can tweak things by lowering your vcore a tad. Or you may be able to attain a higher frequency with that vcore. Or you may need a higher vcore for 4.5. Not likely but this is where you experiment. 4.5 is a fairly moderate overclock. Seeing that you have an 8350 and a top notch motherboard.


----------



## player04

Sorry. i reup the pics again


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *player04*
> 
> Sorry. i reup the pics again
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice is that IBT stable?


----------



## player04

IBT pass 10 passes: standard, high, very high, but not extreme. good enough for me. it can handle handbrake. full loaded at 66C CPU.


----------



## CTAG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> The easiest and most effective thing you can do is just overclock with the multiplier. Forget anything else. I would set your bios to optimized defaults. Reboot and take note of your stock vcore. Then go into your bios and raise that vcore by .1v. Set the multiplier to achieve say 4.5 GHz. Turn off all the power saving crap. Turn off turbo. Save your settings. Reboot and stress test. Watch your vcore and socket temps. Then you can tweak things by lowering your vcore a tad. Or you may be able to attain a higher frequency with that vcore. Or you may need a higher vcore for 4.5. Not likely but this is where you experiment. 4.5 is a fairly moderate overclock. Seeing that you have an 8350 and a top notch motherboard.


Thank you for the tips. Overclocking with just the multiplier is pretty stable for 4.5GHz. It's going to be a few days until I've got some other items sorted out, I'm changing the hard drives in the chassis. After that I'll go back and try an overclock with just the multiplier.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *player04*
> 
> IBT pass 10 passes: standard, high, very high, but not extreme. good enough for me. it can handle handbrake. full loaded at 66C CPU.










Mmm.... I think the only constriction for a stability test should be the "reasonable" amount of time it takes to perform the test. I can see cutting Prime95 runs short after a few hours. But 10 runs of IBT takes only like 45 minutes or so. There is no need, from a time perspective, to not use the Extreme setting. If you can devise a usage scenario, including stress testing programs, that can cause errors withing and hour or two, I don't feel that the CPU is stable.

But if your most demanding application is rendering, do some test rending for a few hours; but personally, I always make sure I can do AT LEAST 10 runs in IBT AVX on EXTREME. I've had an older CPU fail on the 18th EXTREME run, but after 15-20 EXTREME runs, I feel that's great stability.


----------



## player04

my computer haven't freeze yet using handbrake. i just don't see why i have to prime95 for 24 hours to be stable, or 100 passes of ibt or 100 passes of linx or 8hours of OCCT. its just waste of time and runs up electricity.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *player04*
> 
> my computer haven't freeze yet using handbrake. i just don't see why i have to prime95 for 24 hours to be stable, or 100 passes of ibt or 100 passes of linx or 8hours of OCCT. its just waste of time and runs up electricity.


The answer can be found here http://www.overclock.net/t/990229/stress-testing-warning/20#post_13127125
If your data isn't important, you don't mind re-imaging every now and than, if all you do is game than I'd agree.
It doesn't take just BSOD to corrupt an OS.

Stability is very subjective and everyone has there own needs, but just a word of advice. Please take a few minutes and check out the link above.








In my rig sig you'll see my current clock (24 hr Prime95 stable) and there is also a link for a validation. Can you guess why I don't claim the second clock as my everyday OC?


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *player04*
> 
> my computer haven't freeze yet using handbrake. i just don't see why i have to prime95 for 24 hours to be stable, or 100 passes of ibt or 100 passes of linx or 8hours of OCCT. its just waste of time and runs up electricity.


That's not what I said. In fact, I said just the opposite.

No one has a reason NOT to use IBT AVX on EXTREME since you can complete 10 runs in under and hour.


----------



## Mega Man

That depends on ram size, I won't tell you how long it takes for 32gb


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That depends on ram size, I won't tell you how long it takes for 32gb


Yes, for 16gb it takes ~10min to complet one cycle.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> That depends on ram size, I won't tell you how long it takes for 32gb


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> Yes, for 16gb it takes ~10min to complet one cycle.


True, forgot about that, but I'd still use Extreme and simply stop it after an hour or two if you're pressed for time. CPU stress testing should be time limited (if anything), not complexity limited.


----------



## Mega Man

Ill leave this here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingCain*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blakmumba;13120663*
> I seriously question the need for all this 24hr testing going on your brand new CPU, I see numerous cases here of guys bragging about their 24hr stress testing, or saying someones overclock is not stable because they haven't benched for 24 hrs.
> 
> 
> 
> How much experience have you had with overclocking? This attitude is generally reserved for amateur overclockers who have never had corrupted data.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> A stress test is running all of your CPU cores flat out for however long you run the test, unless of course a core drops out because your overclock is unstable, I see the need for short term testing say an hour or maybe 2, because it won't take that long for an unstable overclock to show itself, but 24hrs in my opinion is not necessary.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I think you are confused. The error is not found because the CPU is at 100%. A major error, or more likely, many tiny irrecoverable errors, happen at any % of CPU usage. The programs are designed to find inconsistencies as fast as possible, utilizing all resources available to determine the stability. Its not lets see how hard we can squeeze your CPU till it breaks. Is it stressful? Sure, is the stress that causes error? No, that would be instability or heat. Another good way to test your cooling solution too I might add.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> There is not a thing on this planet designed to last forever, your precious CPU included when companies like Intel and AMD, guarantee their CPUs for 3 yr warranty time period, they're confident their CPUs will actually go past that time period, however that calculation is based on 3 yrs and beyond of normal use.
> 
> They know their CPUs are capable of lasting under normal spec'd use longer than the 3 yrs or they would not warranty them that long.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Not sure why this is even here. This has nothing to do with stability testing, unless you are assuming that all CPUs that are brand new should not be tested @ stock settings? Which a CPU should be tested to ensure its not defective. Rare, but it can happen.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Now the cold hard fact is that overclocking your CPU will shorten its lifespan, but we accept that for the additional speed we gain, most of us will replace that cpu with an upgrade before is life expectancy arrives anyway, so taking it out of specifications is acceptable.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Has nothing to do with stability testing. Its about error prevention.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> However that's with normal day to day use, surfing the web, audio and video editing and converting, gaming, office documentation Etc, and though serious bench stress testing is necessary to achieve a stable overclock, what damage does stress testing over a 24 hr time period and beyond, actually do to shorten the lifespan of your new CPU.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Why would you even overclock then?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> For example if you stress test your new quad core CPU for 24hrs, and all 4 cores are running at 100% for 24 hrs, how much normal daily processing is lost, because no daily application uses all 4 cores at 100% for 24hrs, so at least think about that when you overclock your CPU, and use at least some kind of wisdom in your stress testing.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Again its not the stress that creates the error, its stress that finds the error. Errors can occur with as little as 1% core usage. The alternative is to use your computer until one day, your boot sector is corrupted, and Windows 7 repair, can't fix the files as the damage has occurred widespread through your file-system. At this point you are even lucky to recover data off the hard drive. Assuming you are still not using an unstable overclock, recovering data, will most likely keep it corrupt/re-corrupt it.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Because if you don't think you're adding to shortening the life of your CPU, you're wrong!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Stress testing your CPU, if its adequately cooled, is not shortening your hardwares life, its the extra voltage/clock cycles from the overclock if anything. It sounds like you have a ton still to learn / grasp and thats okay. Overclocking has many useful applications, such as a technical server upgrade, gaming, scientific calculations, protein folding, etc. Many of those demand stability for personal and professional reasons. Folding requires 100% accurate data, or its wasteful time for both the user and server, which anyday can provide a cure to cancer (hopefully.) A non tested overclock in that field is extremely frowned upon by many people who dedicate entire machines to just folding.
> 
> I am not saying you have to stress test your CPU, or it will die and kill everything in your computer, but you are not going to convince anyone who knows what they are doing that its a waste of time.
> 
> I don't get why people are ever against having a fully stable system? It takes about a day if you actually have good settings. Maybe apathy or general laziness, but still, it will create so many headaches in the long run trying to figure out why the computer just doesn't want to work today.
Click to expand...


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> If it's failing at stock speeds, look at your RAM speed. If you're running it at 2133 MHz, it's overclocked and if the memory controller in the CPU isn't getting enough voltage, it won't be stable.


Indeed I overclocked my RAM to run at 2133mhz as specifications (with XMP, and tight timmings), its a G.SKILL 16GB Ripjaws Z Series DDR3 2133MHz running at 1,6v with CL10 (10-11-10-28-2T).

What I need to do to stabilize it? Increase NB voltage?


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> More info, pictures of CPU-Z for CPU and memory. But in general its allways the same more Voltage to CPU or CPU-NB.


Sure, here is it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







So, I should increase CPU and CPU-NB voltage until it passes on the tests?

By the way, this is the error I get, always the same, and always in diferents cores.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## The Sandman

CPU/NB voltage and Dram voltage is usually the cause for that type of error.
Just noticed you're running 2608MHz NB freq? (There's an indicator). Most likely CPU/NB voltage but might be a combination of Dram voltage also.

What's your chips CPU VID and CPU/NB VID.
Would be helpful to list all voltages (SS)? CPU/NB especially with LLC settings.

Also need to know CPU Core temps at this level.
Have you tried something less for CPU/NB freq (2200 to 2400MHz)?

Might want to try some IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 set to "Very High" for ten runs and post a snip.
Works faster to locate instability in the early stages of an OC.


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> CPU/NB voltage and Dram voltage is usually the cause for that type of error.
> Just noticed you're running 2608MHz NB freq? (There's an indicator). Most likely CPU/NB voltage but might be a combination of Dram voltage also.
> 
> What's your chips CPU VID and CPU/NB VID.
> Would be helpful to list all voltages (SS)? CPU/NB especially with LLC settings.
> 
> Also need to know CPU Core temps at this level.
> Have you tried something less for CPU/NB freq (2200 to 2400MHz)?
> 
> Might want to try some IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 set to "Very High" for ten runs and post a snip.
> Works faster to locate instability in the early stages of an OC.


I will get a BIOS screenshot of the voltages when I get home, it's everytinhg on auto.
LLC settings are all stock, didn't change anything yet. The only thing I changed was setting the RAM.

I don't follow the cores temp exactly, mostly the socket temps. And at least the socket temps are not a problem, I'm running it on a Corsair H55 with push and pull, and I have 4x140mm and 2x120mm Corsair's on the case. On idle it sits in 30ºC for silent, and on full load in stability tests usually arround 68ºC (on 65ºC the H55 kicks in with 100%).
Yes recently I changed the NB frequency and HT Link at 2600Mhz (stock was 2200 / 2400), but I didn't notice any diference in stability doing that, the stress test was already giving this errors before that, and didn't notice an increase on errors.

I already did some tests on IntelBurntTest, It passes, even on Extreme. I just don't let it running for long periods because of the temps, I'm afraid of getting too high.
Sadly I didn't even OC'ed the CPU yet, I tried, but it always fails on Prime95 so i just gonne back to stock, and even then it fails...


----------



## metalshegy

Quote:


> Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
> DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
> CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks)
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Current Capability 130%
> Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
> C1E - Disabled
> SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled


I have ASUS M5A97 R2.0, 2x4 gb DDR3 1866mhz and FX 8320 with corsair H75 liquid cooler and have adjusted all these settings. Only differences are HT link speed can only be at 2400Mhz and CPU LLC can only be enabled/auto or disabled. DRAM set to 1600Mhz and 1.5V. After a few stress tests i got a freeze while starting prime95 at 3.9Ghz on stock voltages. After that i tried slowly increasing CPU manual voltage but even at 1.38V it still freezes which i think is strange. Also CPU/NB manual voltage is 1.25V. Tried disabling HPC Mode. Power supply 600W. I also tried leaving all settings on auto and only set cpu speed to 4Ghz, no freeze after 10 min prime test but 81 socket and 71 core temperatures which are over the head. CPU VCORE on auto get to 1.308 max


----------



## player04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Indeed I overclocked my RAM to run at 2133mhz as specifications (with XMP, and tight timmings), its a G.SKILL 16GB Ripjaws Z Series DDR3 2133MHz running at 1,6v with CL10 (10-11-10-28-2T).
> 
> What I need to do to stabilize it? Increase NB voltage?


you are running at your rated memory speed, which is 2133. select to docp, select profile 0 or 1, select 2133mhz for dram frequency, set timings for ram and ram voltage to 1.6


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> I will get a BIOS screenshot of the voltages when I get home, it's everytinhg on auto.
> LLC settings are all stock, didn't change anything yet. The only thing I changed was setting the RAM.
> 
> I don't follow the cores temp exactly, mostly the socket temps. And at least the socket temps are not a problem, I'm running it on a Corsair H55 with push and pull, and I have 4x140mm and 2x120mm Corsair's on the case. On idle it sits in 30ºC for silent, and on full load in stability tests usually arround 68ºC (on 65ºC the H55 kicks in with 100%).
> Yes recently I changed the NB frequency and HT Link at 2600Mhz (stock was 2200 / 2400), but I didn't notice any diference in stability doing that, the stress test was already giving this errors before that, and didn't notice an increase on errors.
> 
> I already did some tests on IntelBurntTest, It passes, even on Extreme. I just don't let it running for long periods because of the temps, I'm afraid of getting too high.
> Sadly I didn't even OC'ed the CPU yet, I tried, but it always fails on Prime95 so i just gonne back to stock, and even then it fails...


Change the fan profile to 100% for stress testing.
Core temp is most important to follow. If you're not sure sure of which value to read DL AMD AOD http://www.techspot.com/downloads/4645-amd-overdrive.html and look at the Thermal Margin.
It displays how far you have to go before you reach the CPU temp limit. Use this info to figure out which sensor to read in HWMonitor etc. Myself I prefer HWInfo64.

I'll wait to see some snips before going further.


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> CPU/NB voltage and Dram voltage is usually the cause for that type of error.
> Just noticed you're running 2608MHz NB freq? (There's an indicator). Most likely CPU/NB voltage but might be a combination of Dram voltage also.
> 
> What's your chips CPU VID and CPU/NB VID.
> Would be helpful to list all voltages (SS)? CPU/NB especially with LLC settings.
> 
> Also need to know CPU Core temps at this level.
> Have you tried something less for CPU/NB freq (2200 to 2400MHz)?
> 
> Might want to try some IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 set to "Very High" for ten runs and post a snip.
> Works faster to locate instability in the early stages of an OC.


Ok, here is it.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://postimage.org/

http://postimage.org/


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Change the fan profile to 100% for stress testing.
> Core temp is most important to follow. If you're not sure sure of which value to read DL AMD AOD http://www.techspot.com/downloads/4645-amd-overdrive.html and look at the Thermal Margin.
> It displays how far you have to go before you reach the CPU temp limit. Use this info to figure out which sensor to read in HWMonitor etc. Myself I prefer HWInfo64.
> 
> I'll wait to see some snips before going further.


Ok, altered the fan profile to "Turbo" already gave me maximum 53ºC during Prime95 blend test.
The problem is that in less then 5 minutes 5 cores were already failed, all of them with the same error, but not together.

About the temps, sorry, I don't think I fully understand what you need, I got all the programs you mentioned, here is 2 screens, idle, and with 5 mins off Prime95, where you can even see the core failures.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://postimg.org/image/cru22njht/full/

http://postimg.org/image/ihaamypo1/full/


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Ok, here is it.
> 
> http://postimage.org/


Notice the crazy high CPU/NB voltage in bios (1.45v) when left on "Auto"?
When left on auto it is very common with the Asus Bios to over volt the CPU/NB, (depending on the mobo).
Default from AMD is usually much closer to 1.125 to 1.25v. You need to locate your chips default value using HWInfo64.

Here's what my FX6350's CPU VID and CPU/NB VID look like on my M5A99FX-Pro running HWInfo64, first two values under the Maximum tab. If you need help to reconfigure HWInfo just ask. These are about all the useful values I could find for this M5A99FX-Pro. CPU Core Temp is labeled CPU Core #0 in HWInfo64.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Excess voltage will cause instability the same way as over voltage. Best to start with default values (manually entered) and make small increases/retest.

This how my CHV-Z Bios looks for what I call "My Default Bios". It's basically the CHV-Z default settings (notice the difference when my CPU/NB is left on auto?) but all the Dram info found on the sticker on the dram itself is manually entered along with most of the freqs.
I'd recommend you also manually enter *your* chips CPU VID and CPU/NB VID values and start from there.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











It's not uncommon for the AMD platform to require up to .05v to .1v Dram voltage even for default settings.
Using four Dimms will create more stress on the IMC than just two. This may require additional CPU/NB voltage, start w/default and make small changes and retest.

The failures you're seeing in Prime95 are most likely related to this area. Start with a stronger bios setup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> The problem is that in less then 5 minutes 5 cores were already failed, all of them with the same error, but not together.
> 
> About the temps, sorry, I don't think I fully understand what you need, I got all the programs you mentioned, here is 2 screens, idle, and with 5 mins off Prime95, where you can even see the core failures.


Please re-post these I cannot enlarge them to read (am I the only one)?
When testing it's best to only run one monitoring utility and please take a little time to rearrange it so it's usable/helpful like this









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> It's not uncommon for the AMD platform to require up to .05v to .1v Dram voltage even for default settings.
> Using four Dimms will create more stress on the IMC than just two. This may require additional CPU/NB voltage, start w/default and make small changes and retest.
> 
> The failures you're seeing in Prime95 are most likely related to this area. Start with a stronger bios setup


Cool, I manage to run it on the 1.60v recommended, but on my first tryes I had to use 1.61v but was afraid of damaging the memory's, good to know.
Acctually I'm using 4 x 4GB dimms, I heard that I should maybe increase the IMC voltage (CPU / NB), already tried that with no luck.
Indeed I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the memory (indirectly), since it's the only thing I changed from default settings.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Notice the crazy high CPU/NB voltage in bios (1.45v) when left on "Auto"?
> When left on auto it is very common with the Asus Bios to over volt the CPU/NB, (depending on the mobo).
> Default from AMD is usually much closer to 1.125 to 1.25v. You need to locate your chips default value using HWInfo64.
> 
> Excess voltage will cause instability the same way as over voltage. Best to start with default values (manually entered) and make small increases/retest.


OK, I will try that once I get home, thanks alot for all that info. I will try to get the default values from HWInfo64 and start from there.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Please re-post these I cannot enlarge them to read (am I the only one)?
> When testing it's best to only run one monitoring utility and please take a little time to rearrange it so it's usable/helpful like this


Sorry, I use 2 monitor's maybe it's because of that. I will re-run the tests and re-post it again later.


----------



## Arcus215

Hello, I would like to start by thanking you for such a proper guide which seems far more specific than others on the internet.

I have a persistent problem with my overclock. My computer keeps freezing at certain OC settings, sometimes even when reverting to last known stable OC point. No core failures on Prime95 detected.
Before I provide details, I would like to mention a few of my observations:

My PC freezes with unstable OC when:
- I press "PLAY" button in League of Legends in menus (Adobe Air app, no game running!)
- I exit full-screen video stream from a website and scroll down a list of hundreds of episodes
- I run Prime95 test for at least 5-10 minutes (duh)

Since freezes happen even at low usage, I doubt it's a temperature problem. Also please note that Windows 10 amplified this issue. I do not recall such freezes in Windows 7. Randomly adding voltage increases freeze risk.
Anyway, details below:

- OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit
- CPU: AMD FX-8320 Vishera 32nm Technology (3500 MHz stock speed, approx. 1.245 V stock)
- RAM: 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 802MHz (11-11-11-28) HyperX Blu
- Mobo: M5A97 R2.0 (Socket 942)
- GPU: 2048MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 200 Series (270 I think)
- SSD: 223GB OCZ-VERT EX460 SATA Disk Device
- PSU: Corsair CX750
- CPU cooler: HyperEVO 212
- CPU temp read at max stress: 65 C

BIOS settings:
- D.O.C.P. Profile
- Disabled AMD Turbo Core and spread spectrum for CPU and PCIe
- Enabled LLC for CPU
- Auto on CPU/NB LLC
- Auto on all voltages except CPU
- Bus at 200 MHz
- PCIe frq. on Auto
- Memory frq. is 1600 MHz
- Stable multiplier = 19.0 (3.8 GHz) at stock voltage
- All other settings untouched

After using your guide, I successfully reached 3.8 GHz on stock voltage (1.25 V) and tested with Prime95.
After increasing to 3.9GHz, the PC froze on second Prime95 test (after 10 min from start)
After reverting to 3.8 GHz, it froze AGAIN. After a restart with with same settings, Prime95 was okay again, no freezing.
After adding +3 increments to CPU voltage at 3.8 GHz, PC froze.

Any details I didn't list?


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Notice the crazy high CPU/NB voltage in bios (1.45v) when left on "Auto"?
> When left on auto it is very common with the Asus Bios to over volt the CPU/NB, (depending on the mobo).
> Default from AMD is usually much closer to 1.125 to 1.25v. You need to locate your chips default value using HWInfo64.
> 
> Here's what my FX6350's CPU VID and CPU/NB VID look like on my M5A99FX-Pro running HWInfo64, first two values under the Maximum tab. If you need help to reconfigure HWInfo just ask. These are about all the useful values I could find for this M5A99FX-Pro. CPU Core Temp is labeled CPU Core #0 in HWInfo64.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Excess voltage will cause instability the same way as over voltage. Best to start with default values (manually entered) and make small increases/retest.
> 
> This how my CHV-Z Bios looks for what I call "My Default Bios". It's basically the CHV-Z default settings (notice the difference when my CPU/NB is left on auto?) but all the Dram info found on the sticker on the dram itself is manually entered along with most of the freqs.
> I'd recommend you also manually enter *your* chips CPU VID and CPU/NB VID values and start from there.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's not uncommon for the AMD platform to require up to .05v to .1v Dram voltage even for default settings.
> Using four Dimms will create more stress on the IMC than just two. This may require additional CPU/NB voltage, start w/default and make small changes and retest.
> 
> The failures you're seeing in Prime95 are most likely related to this area. Start with a stronger bios setup
> Please re-post these I cannot enlarge them to read (am I the only one)?
> When testing it's best to only run one monitoring utility and please take a little time to rearrange it so it's usable/helpful like this
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ok, so I did that, firstly tried the voltages (CPU and CPU-NB) at 1.25v, (and reduced NB Clock to the default 2.200Mhz, but that cost me 10% Memory Read/Write Speed at Aida64) everything fine, passes on IntelBurnTest, but not on Prime95 (as always). here is the info from HWInfo64;


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://postimg.org/image/h051ykbwl/full/



So I tried with 1.20v on both, and put the NB Clock at 2.600Mhz again, still passes on InterBurnTest, but not on Prime95, here are the info from HWInfo64.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://postimg.org/image/wvtw1v2h1/full/



I tried at 1.15v but couldn't boot, so I'm using this right now.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







I end up changing the LLC settings to match the recommended on this tutorial too.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Cool, I manage to run it on the 1.60v recommended, but on my first tryes I had to use 1.61v but was afraid of damaging the memory's, good to know.
> 
> Acctually I'm using 4 x 4GB dimms, I heard that I should maybe increase the IMC voltage (CPU / NB), already tried that with no luck.
> Indeed I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the memory (indirectly), since it's the only thing I changed from default settings.
> OK, I will try that once I get home, thanks alot for all that info. I will try to get the default values from HWInfo64 and start from there.
> Sorry, I use 2 monitor's maybe it's because of that. I will re-run the tests and re-post it again later.


DDR3 is rated up to 1.9v but you'd never need any where near that much. My max is usually 1.7 to 1.75v.
Correct when using 4 dimms you may/probably need additional CPU/NB voltage but start with "solid" Bios settings with default CPU/NB VID and basically start over.
Remember make only small increases to one area at a time and retest. Keep good notes of settings with failure times, it helps.
Try Windows Snipping Tool to catch one monitor at a time? I also have dual monitors and this is what I've learned to do so other can have the option to make full screen.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arcus215*
> 
> Hello, I would like to start by thanking you for such a proper guide which seems far more specific than others on the internet.
> 
> I have a persistent problem with my overclock. My computer keeps freezing at certain OC settings, sometimes even when reverting to last known stable OC point. No core failures on Prime95 detected.
> Before I provide details, I would like to mention a few of my observations:
> 
> My PC freezes with unstable OC when:
> - I press "PLAY" button in League of Legends in menus (Adobe Air app, no game running!)
> - I exit full-screen video stream from a website and scroll down a list of hundreds of episodes
> - I run Prime95 test for at least 5-10 minutes (duh)
> 
> Since freezes happen even at low usage, I doubt it's a temperature problem. Also please note that Windows 10 amplified this issue. I do not recall such freezes in Windows 7. Randomly adding voltage increases freeze risk.
> Anyway, details below:
> 
> - OS: Windows 10 Home 64-bit
> - CPU: AMD FX-8320 Vishera 32nm Technology (3500 MHz stock speed, approx. 1.245 V stock)
> - RAM: 8.00GB Dual-Channel DDR3 @ 802MHz (11-11-11-28) HyperX Blu
> - Mobo: M5A97 R2.0 (Socket 942)
> - GPU: 2048MB ATI AMD Radeon R9 200 Series (270 I think)
> - SSD: 223GB OCZ-VERT EX460 SATA Disk Device
> - PSU: Corsair CX750
> - CPU cooler: HyperEVO 212
> - CPU temp read at max stress: 65 C
> 
> BIOS settings:
> - D.O.C.P. Profile
> - Disabled AMD Turbo Core and spread spectrum for CPU and PCIe
> - Enabled LLC for CPU
> - Auto on CPU/NB LLC
> - Auto on all voltages except CPU
> - Bus at 200 MHz
> - PCIe frq. on Auto
> - Memory frq. is 1600 MHz
> - Stable multiplier = 19.0 (3.8 GHz) at stock voltage
> - All other settings untouched
> 
> After using your guide, I successfully reached 3.8 GHz on stock voltage (1.25 V) and tested with Prime95.
> After increasing to 3.9GHz, the PC froze on second Prime95 test (after 10 min from start)
> After reverting to 3.8 GHz, it froze AGAIN. After a restart with with same settings, Prime95 was okay again, no freezing.
> After adding +3 increments to CPU voltage at 3.8 GHz, PC froze.
> 
> Any details I didn't list?


Welcome to OCN!

To help get you started,
give this a read when you have a little time http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
it'll save you some time plus it makes it easier for those trying to help you. Good job so far









Freezing as you described it is "usually" a lack of Dram voltage. Some times it can be a combination of CPU/NB and Dram voltage.

Read the last couple posts above and compare your bios settings. Too many items left on "Auto" is never a good thing. The more that is manually entered the better off you'll be.
I'd recommend dumping D.O.C.P. and manually entering ALL the Dram specs as explained above.

Setup HWInfo64, run a little IBT AVX and post a couple snips of your results.
The CPU temp you mentioned, socket or core temp? We'll need both.

I've also been battling Win10 with my OC, you're not alone lol.


----------



## The Sandman

A-rank

I know you said it passed IBT but I was hoping to see the results as it may give us a clue as to how your OC is performing.
Any chance you saved a copy?

Both you and Arcus215 could benefit from adding active cooling to the VRM/CPU Socket.
The stock HS fan will help lower socket temps when blowing onto this area. Zip ties will hold it in place.
I run one on both sides of my mobo and I'm all wet


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> A-rank
> 
> I know you said it passed IBT but I was hoping to see the results as it may give us a clue as to how your OC is performing.
> Any chance you saved a copy?
> 
> Both you and Arcus215 could benefit from adding active cooling to the VRM/CPU Socket.
> The stock HS fan will help lower socket temps when blowing onto this area. Zip ties will hold it in place.
> I run one on both sides of my mobo and I'm all wet


Dammit, I did not save it, I didn't realized that there was anything that worth seeing in it. I will run it again, and post it later (btw I'm running it on Maximum, I think I forgot to mention it).
The problem with more fans is that I'm already running 2 fan's from each plug with a Y cable, so I don't have more plugs left on the mobo. I have 7 fans already and 2 on the processor.
I still have more one or two Y cables and 3 or 4 fans besides the HS, but I was afraid of connecting 3 fans on the same line and end up damaging it because of the extra current,


----------



## The Sandman

Could always run VRM/Socket fan to a Molex with a DIY adapter at least for stress testing.
Might be time to think about a fan controller.









When that OCing bug bites you can never have enough fan headers lol.
Wasn't too long ago I counted 21 fans in my rig. Down to just ten now.


----------



## Mega Man

Only 21.... I wish. .. I spend more on fans then most on their entire rig, my tx10 will probably have 1500 in fans alone one of the reasons I am not building it just yet


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Could always run VRM/Socket fan to a Molex with a DIY adapter at least for stress testing.
> Might be time to think about a fan controller.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When that OCing bug bites you can never have enough fan headers lol.
> Wasn't too long ago I counted 21 fans in my rig. Down to just ten now.


Holy, seriously? I tought I was already exaggerating.
I tought about buying a NZXT fan controller sometime ago, but I don't really like the idea of not controlling my fans from the mobo, but will think about that again.

Here is the result of the IBT, I runned it once, it's enough?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IntelBurnTest v2.54
Created by AgentGOD

Processor: AMD FX(tm)-8350 Eight-Core Processor
Clock Speed: 4,57 GHz
Active Physical Cores: 8
Total System Memory: 16299 MB

Stress Level: Maximum (14023 MB)
Testing started on 22/02/2016 21:59:53
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[22:23:51] 1334.756 37.8407 1.896785e+001
Testing ended on 22/02/2016 22:23:53
Test Result: Success.

And the print of the HWiNFO64:

http://postimg.org/image/s79ri0oot/full/



By the way, you said about 1.70v - 1.75v on the DRAM, it's worth trying to increase mine voltage to try to tight even more the timmings? I had tryied before at 1.65v but couldn't stabilize at tCL9 nor reduce the tRAS from 11 nor 1T command rate.
At the moment I'm getting 29Mb read speed, 19Mb write speed and 26Mb copy speed with 60ns lateency. I think it's pretty good, isn't it? Or there is anything else I can try to improve here? I didn't change the secondary and terciary timmings, didn't study it enough to understand yet.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://postimage.org/


----------



## The Sandman

LOL, ya we are talking FX 8xxx/9xxx here.

Sorry man wrong version. Go here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
GFlops are way too low, that's the non AVX version.

I never OC ram until after stabilizing CPU OC. Find maximum CPU first, than go after another area.
Let IBT AVX run for say 5 passes on very high, lets see what that looks like.

Should look more like this with just a little tuning









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> LOL, ya we are talking FX 8xxx/9xxx here.
> 
> Sorry man wrong version. Go here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> GFlops are way too low, that's the non AVX version.
> 
> I never OC ram until after stabilizing CPU OC. Find maximum CPU first, than go after another area.
> Let IBT AVX run for say 5 passes on very high, lets see what that looks like.
> 
> Should look more like this with just a little tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ok, I will try it once I get home again. In the meanwhile I have one more doubt.
Are the higher clocks (5Ghz like yours) worth even with low CPU usage? Or it only show some performance gain under full load?


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> LOL, ya we are talking FX 8xxx/9xxx here.
> 
> Sorry man wrong version. Go here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> GFlops are way too low, that's the non AVX version.
> 
> I never OC ram until after stabilizing CPU OC. Find maximum CPU first, than go after another area.
> Let IBT AVX run for say 5 passes on very high, lets see what that looks like.
> 
> Should look more like this with just a little tuning
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Ok, so back to square 0...

First 2 times (@1.20v / @1.21v) I tried these new version I got a BSOD, System Service Exception in less then 2 seconds.
Then I tried all the way to 1.25v (0.1v per time), always failing.
So I tried with the that stock settings off my first post, failed again.

Here are the results.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



@1.22v
Stress Level: Very High (4096 MB)
Testing started on 23/02/2016 18:13:02
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[18:15:06] 96.218 80.1071 1.657352e+001
[18:17:05] 92.576 83.2583 -1.#IND00e+000
Testing ended on 23/02/2016 18:17:05
Test Result: Failure.

@1.23v
Stress Level: Very High (4096 MB)
Testing started on 23/02/2016 18:18:00
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[18:20:03] 94.931 81.1928 1.439546e+001
[18:22:04] 94.714 81.3790 1.921231e+001
Testing ended on 23/02/2016 18:22:04
Test Result: Failure.

@1.24v
Stress Level: Very High (4096 MB)
Testing started on 23/02/2016 18:32:05
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[18:34:04] 91.996 83.7832 1.657017e+001
[18:36:03] 92.113 83.6763 3.314632e+001
Testing ended on 23/02/2016 18:36:03
Test Result: Failure.

@1.25v
Stress Level: Very High (4096 MB)
Testing started on 23/02/2016 18:39:42
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[18:41:41] 91.987 83.7911 3.315491e+001
[18:43:39] 91.793 83.9685 1.657318e+001
Testing ended on 23/02/2016 18:43:39
Test Result: Failure.

@stock (1.45v)
Stress Level: Very High (4096 MB)
Testing started on 23/02/2016 18:56:20
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[18:58:23] 95.251 80.9204 1.656503e+001
[19:00:24] 95.577 80.6439 2.627874e+002
Testing ended on 23/02/2016 19:00:24
Test Result: Failure.



I don't know what to do now, any suggestions?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Are the higher clocks (5Ghz like yours) worth even with low CPU usage? Or it only show some performance gain under full load?


My 8350 was very nice







at 4813MHz and the added burden of 5.0GHz was not worth the slight gains other than epeen.
Now this 9590 was very nice at 4.7 to 4.8 (stock) but 5.0 was really slightly better. 5.1 was a very easy step up but again not a lot of gain as far as feel but oh the power.
I've been working on stabilizing 5.2 and all I can say is yes. Things just snap more and is really noticeable but... I've been working this OC for a couple months now on and off.
You'll find two, maybe three "bridges" in an OC where you can actually notice the increase. It takes a lot of time/patience.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Ok, so back to square 0...
> 
> First 2 times (@1.20v / @1.21v) I tried these new version I got a BSOD, System Service Exception in less then 2 seconds.
> Then I tried all the way to 1.25v (0.1v per time), always failing.
> So I tried with the that stock settings off my first post, failed again.
> 
> Here are the results.


Look back at my last spoiler > link >snip >lower right corner "Original" to view full screen.
Under the "results" tab. This value should always be a positive #, close to 3.88xxx when testing with Very High IBT.
Increase Vcore one bump at a time and retest till you see the difference in "results". Keep a close eye on the Core temp.

FYI, if you intend to run C&Q consider using "OffSet Voltage Mode.
Wouldn't hurt to show latest bios (comp tweaker tab) snip to help confirm where you're at. There's been a lot of info to try to digest.


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> My 8350 was very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at 4813MHz and the added burden of 5.0GHz was not worth the slight gains other than epeen.
> Now this 9590 was very nice at 4.7 to 4.8 (stock) but 5.0 was really slightly better. 5.1 was a very easy step up but again not a lot of gain as far as feel but oh the power.
> I've been working on stabilizing 5.2 and all I can say is yes. Things just snap more and is really noticeable but... I've been working this OC for a couple months now on and off.
> You'll find two, maybe three "bridges" in an OC where you can actually notice the increase. It takes a lot of time/patience.
> Look back at my last spoiler > link >snip >lower right corner "Original" to view full screen.
> Under the "results" tab. This value should always be a positive #, close to 3.88xxx when testing with Very High IBT.
> Increase Vcore one bump at a time and retest till you see the difference in "results". Keep a close eye on the Core temp.
> 
> FYI, if you intend to run C&Q consider using "OffSet Voltage Mode.
> Wouldn't hurt to show latest bios (comp tweaker tab) snip to help confirm where you're at. There's been a lot of info to try to digest.


Hmm, good to know, once I manage to get this stable I will probably try to pursue some higher clocks then...

I saw that last night, I didn't know what results to expect from IBT, so I came to look at your results.

And yeah, I noticed that it takes a lot of time, I spend last night to get 10 passes at Standard (with the same results as yours, 3.88xx002) but still fails alot, I got 10 passes on the third try, the other two failed at like 5-8 passes. Prime95 still fails quickly. But at least I think I'm getting somewhere now. I'm testing with 10 passes on Standard to make it quickly, once it get's more stable (since it wasn't passing even on Standard before) I start with Very High, or even Extreme, is that Ok?

Once I get home I will post another snippet, from what I remeber I'm sitting at 1.31v vcore and 1.18v CPU/NB. I already tried to bump once each (separetelly) to see if it increases the stability, but it seens to fail even more, like on 3-4 passes.

The C&Q was enabled until last night, but with all the troubles last night I disabled almost everything on that tab following this post recommendations. But yeah, I would like to keep it enabled once it's everything stable, since I keep my computer idle for some long hours. So I should already change to OffSet Voltage Mode?


----------



## Arcus215

So my issues are probably associated with DRAM voltage, but I found something else that seems fair.


This describes my problem - freezes don't happen during intense gaming. So could it be TOO MUCH voltage on DRAM, too?

I just want to know if it's okay for me to experiment with these freezes, at least with small deviations from stable OC points. Are they harmful to PC parts?

I still haven't had the chance to install additional software or read that article. But here are BIOS screenshots as advised.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> I saw that last night, I didn't know what results to expect from IBT, so I came to look at your results.
> 
> And yeah, I noticed that it takes a lot of time, I spend last night to get 10 passes at Standard (with the same results as yours, 3.88xx002) but still fails alot, I got 10 passes on the third try, the other two failed at like 5-8 passes. Prime95 still fails quickly. But at least I think I'm getting somewhere now. I'm testing with 10 passes on Standard to make it quickly, once it get's more stable (since it wasn't passing even on Standard before) I start with Very High, or even Extreme, is that Ok?
> 
> The C&Q was enabled until last night, but with all the troubles last night I disabled almost everything on that tab following this post recommendations. But yeah, I would like to keep it enabled once it's everything stable, since I keep my computer idle for some long hours. So I should already change to OffSet Voltage Mode?


The 3.88xx002 results only apply to "Very High" setting








You have to be specific/careful with new info.

This is how *my* default bios setting from previous post look running at 4.7GHz with IBT AVX running "Standard". Note the difference in results. Not very well optimized when compared to the 5117MHz OC.
It is possible to achieve higher GFlops (very close) to 100 even with a stock setup. Use consistency of "time" and GFlops" to help determine how close your tuning capabilities are.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Myself I prefer to start with Very High (10 runs) than work up to 20 runs on Maximum. I choose not to use Extreme. You should be fine if you choose to run Extreme just watch your temps as usual.
After 20 on max time for some P95 for me.

I mentioned OffSet voltage only to get you use to using it early in your OC. I recommend using it.
Vcore = CPU VID plus any OffSet you add in Bios. Same for CPU/NB OffSet mode.
Note, the changes you make will not show in Bios (Live) till after you reboot than re-enter Bios to verify.
LLC will affect this value slightly when your in Windows. (one of those things I'm waiting to see)


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> The 3.88xx002 results only apply to "Very High" setting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have to be specific/careful with new info.
> 
> This is how *my* default bios setting from previous post look running at 4.7GHz with IBT AVX running "Standard". Note the difference in results. Not very well optimized when compared to the 5117MHz OC.
> It is possible to achieve higher GFlops (very close) to 100 even with a stock setup. Use consistency of "time" and GFlops" to help determine how close your tuning capabilities are.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Myself I prefer to start with Very High (10 runs) than work up to 20 runs on Maximum. I choose not to use Extreme. You should be fine if you choose to run Extreme just watch your temps as usual.
> After 20 on max time for some P95 for me.
> 
> I mentioned OffSet voltage only to get you use to using it early in your OC. I recommend using it.
> Vcore = CPU VID plus any OffSet you add in Bios. Same for CPU/NB OffSet mode.
> Note, the changes you make will not show in Bios (Live) till after you reboot than re-enter Bios to verify.
> LLC will affect this value slightly when your in Windows. (one of those things I'm waiting to see)


Yeah, sorry about that, I got carried away by the 3.xxxx002, and I was at work so I was trying to remember.

Your cue for the OffSet Voltage got me really interested on it, I spent the last 5 hours tweaking with it already, tick by tick once voltage per time, trying to get some stability.
I got stomped with 1.272v on Vcore and 1.227v on CPU/NB, increasing or decreasing only made the results worse. So as I said before that I was pretty sure that the mess was something involving the RAM I decided to try with 1.65v on DRAM, I got better results and tried 1.70v as you said that AMD is know to need 0.5v to 1.0v more the specs, and voilá...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







http://postimg.org/image/sc3ermp73/full/



I also losening the timmings for the specs one, 11-11-11-31 at least for the time being, I was using 10-11-10-28 witouth any errors on memtest86, but I don't know...

I managed to pass 5 full runs of IBT on Standard, the above image is from the last one (the HWiNFO is of the 5 runs, I didn't reset it). But I failed 2 on Very High with the same settings. I tried with all the power saving features on, and it failed on Standard too, but I'm off for the day, I will continue it tomorrow. So I will need to tweak a bit more, and of course try the DRAM voltages, because I just tried with "brute force" to see what would happen. Do you have anything else in mind that I should try? Because I'm kind out of ideas already.

I'm so glad that I'm finally getting somehere close to stable settings, thanks very much @TheSandman, your help was essential for me.


----------



## The Sandman

Disable Turbo Core (please)

I'd still lower CPU/NB Freq to 2200 to 2400 for now, come back to it later. Being this high (this early) could easily be causing issues.
You are trying to OC a CPU one direction, plus at the same time leaning on the CPU/NB (IMC inside CPU) hmmm







.

I completely understand not wanting to lower throughput but there is an order to the chaos here lol.
CPU only, to learn its limits and requirements.
NB by itself.
HTT (Ref Clock) only.
and last is Ram.
Than add them all together!

When the time comes for throughput dial her up to a 265 - 300MHz ref clock with cl9









I see your CPU VID is 1.325v. Remember this is what AMD claims to be your CPU's stock voltage for 4.0GHz.
Your currently running 1.272v Vcore under load at 4013MHz. I'm guessing you're aware of this.

Going from this snip (after above changes) my next step would be to continue tests at Very High and not be surprised if it needs more Vcore.
Wouldn't surprise me if it took 1.325 and maybe just slightly higher. It's okay to sneak up on it as this would be the most optimizing method to follow if, you only plan to run a stock clock.

When I first start an OC I start with VID value, test @ 4.0GHz (in your case) if pass increase CPU multiplier 1/2 and repeat. Saves a little time if you already know you will be clocking higher, make sense?
Remember only one area at a time with all power saving disabled as mentioned. I can't stress this enough. Your looking for consistency in settings that will not fluctuate like they do when PS are enabled.


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Disable Turbo Core (please)
> 
> I'd still lower CPU/NB Freq to 2200 to 2400 for now, come back to it later. Being this high (this early) could easily be causing issues.
> You are trying to OC a CPU one direction, plus at the same time leaning on the CPU/NB (IMC inside CPU) hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I completely understand not wanting to lower throughput but there is an order to the chaos here lol.
> CPU only, to learn its limits and requirements.
> NB by itself.
> HTT (Ref Clock) only.
> and last is Ram.
> Than add them all together!
> 
> When the time comes for throughput dial her up to a 265 - 300MHz ref clock with cl9
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see your CPU VID is 1.325v. Remember this is what AMD claims to be your CPU's stock voltage for 4.0GHz.
> Your currently running 1.272v Vcore under load at 4013MHz. I'm guessing you're aware of this.
> 
> Going from this snip (after above changes) my next step would be to continue tests at Very High and not be surprised if it needs more Vcore.
> Wouldn't surprise me if it took 1.325 and maybe just slightly higher. It's okay to sneak up on it as this would be the most optimizing method to follow if, you only plan to run a stock clock.
> 
> When I first start an OC I start with VID value, test @ 4.0GHz (in your case) if pass increase CPU multiplier 1/2 and repeat. Saves a little time if you already know you will be clocking higher, make sense?
> Remember only one area at a time with all power saving disabled as mentioned. I can't stress this enough. Your looking for consistency in settings that will not fluctuate like they do when PS are enabled.


Oh sorry for that, it's so many things that sometimes I mess up with something.
Ok, returned the NB Frequency to the default 2200 Mhz. I have been doing it from times to times, to see if it would increase the stability any further, with no changes, but sure better to keep on stock for now. About the RAM I don't know if I got it right, you are saying I should downlock it until get some stability? The "default" from my mobo is 1600Mhz, should I set it for now?

The CPU VID is like "how much voltage the core is asking to run", right? I tried to sneak up the CPU at 1.325v but got sightly worse results then currents. Maybe I should raise the CPU/NB too? The DRAM at 1.70v can cause some trouble? Should I try to increase it even more to see if I get better results?

Well, I will continue to test it this night, lets see...


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Disable Turbo Core (please)
> 
> I'd still lower CPU/NB Freq to 2200 to 2400 for now, come back to it later. Being this high (this early) could easily be causing issues.
> You are trying to OC a CPU one direction, plus at the same time leaning on the CPU/NB (IMC inside CPU) hmmm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I completely understand not wanting to lower throughput but there is an order to the chaos here lol.
> CPU only, to learn its limits and requirements.
> NB by itself.
> HTT (Ref Clock) only.
> and last is Ram.
> Than add them all together!
> 
> When the time comes for throughput dial her up to a 265 - 300MHz ref clock with cl9
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I see your CPU VID is 1.325v. Remember this is what AMD claims to be your CPU's stock voltage for 4.0GHz.
> Your currently running 1.272v Vcore under load at 4013MHz. I'm guessing you're aware of this.
> 
> Going from this snip (after above changes) my next step would be to continue tests at Very High and not be surprised if it needs more Vcore.
> Wouldn't surprise me if it took 1.325 and maybe just slightly higher. It's okay to sneak up on it as this would be the most optimizing method to follow if, you only plan to run a stock clock.
> 
> When I first start an OC I start with VID value, test @ 4.0GHz (in your case) if pass increase CPU multiplier 1/2 and repeat. Saves a little time if you already know you will be clocking higher, make sense?
> Remember only one area at a time with all power saving disabled as mentioned. I can't stress this enough. Your looking for consistency in settings that will not fluctuate like they do when PS are enabled.


Ok, so I followed your advice, or at least what I tought it was your advice.
Firstly I tried to bump the Vcore to the VID 1.325v, failed, so I increased the CPU NB to 1.30v tick by tick, and still nothing, increased the Vcore until 1.38v tick by tick, then CPU NB until 1.40v tick by tick, and couldn't pass on Very High, actually, never got even close to 5 passes, with no improvement.

So, I gone back to the old settings (Vcore 1.272v / CPU NB 1.227v) and set the Memory Frequency at 1600Mhz, it passed on 10 runs on Very High, then I tried at 1866Mhz, again success...



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://postimg.org/image/fq1336h3h/full/

http://postimg.org/image/o70le3lsd/full/



Now that we narrowed it down to the RAM beeing the instability issue what should I try to do?
I really would like to make it stable with the RAM specs, before even think about higher CPU clocks.

How should I do it?


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Ok, so I followed your advice, or at least what I tought it was your advice.
> Firstly I tried to bump the Vcore to the VID 1.325v, failed, so I increased the CPU NB to 1.30v tick by tick, and still nothing, increased the Vcore until 1.38v tick by tick, then CPU NB until 1.40v tick by tick, and couldn't pass on Very High, actually, never got even close to 5 passes, with no improvement.
> 
> So, I gone back to the old settings (Vcore 1.272v / CPU NB 1.227v) and set the Memory Frequency at 1600Mhz, it passed on 10 runs on Very High, then I tried at 1866Mhz, again success...
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://postimg.org/image/fq1336h3h/full/
> 
> http://postimg.org/image/o70le3lsd/full/
> 
> 
> 
> Now that we narrowed it down to the RAM beeing the instability issue what should I try to do?
> I really would like to make it stable with the RAM specs, before even think about higher CPU clocks.
> 
> How should I do it?


Ok, so I ended up aswering my own questions, I tried to bump the DRAM voltage at 2133Mhz, and at 1.80v it's stable, I just passed on a IBT test on Very High.

So, it's SECURE to run it at that voltage 24/7? Should I use it like that?



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



http://postimage.org/

http://postimage.org/

Dammit, I forgot to save the snippet of the test, I will run it again and post soon.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> So, I gone back to the old settings (Vcore 1.272v / CPU NB 1.227v) and set the Memory Frequency at 1600Mhz, it passed on 10 runs on Very High, then I tried at 1866Mhz, again success...
> 
> Now that we narrowed it down to the RAM beeing the instability issue what should I try to do?
> I really would like to make it stable with the RAM specs, before even think about higher CPU clocks.
> 
> How should I do it?


Stay on course at this point and continue CPU only OC. The Ram works at 1866MHz but at what voltage? Try slightly less (.05) than factory spec. We can come back and tighten timing later.
I'm sure by now you have those timings manually entered correct? Look back a couple posts where I posted my dram timings if your not sure what/where to enter.

It is possible your mobo isn't up to the task (with current settings) but maybe an equal chance that your CPU with THAT set of memory (2133MHz 4x4GB) just doesn't play well.
Have you tried running only two Dimms? This might be an alternative if nothing else works.
2x8GB would have been a better way to go. Creates less stress on IMC.
The 2133MHz could come in handy later on after you get a few things established. To soon to tell.

If you stay with all 4 dimms run them at 1866 with timings manually entered. Retest with that slightly lower Dram voltage.
It's always a good thing to lock in the Dram Driving Control Freq and retest. Just enter what you currently see listed, this keeps the bios from making any changes you don't know about.
Think, if you change Dram freq (1866 to 2133) or timings you'll want to reset these.

See how you make out and please post your current DIGI settings.
CPUZ under the memory tab will show your current Dram timings which is helpful when posting test results. Doesn't your HWInfo show timings with latest version? Mine does.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Ok, so I ended up aswering my own questions, I tried to bump the DRAM voltage at 2133Mhz, and at 1.80v it's stable, I just passed on a IBT test on Very High.
> 
> So, it's SECURE to run it at that voltage 24/7? Should I use it like that?


I wouldn't run it like that. 1.8v for stock settings? Somethings up lol.
GSkill is known to usually clock pretty well. My 1866MHz (1.6v) kit runs stable as a rock even at 2400MHz without crazy voltage. 1.65v iirc.
Something there is definitely fighting you. If your system/memory was heavily OC'd it'd be a different story but no, I wouldn't run 1.8v for default settings.


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Stay on course at this point and continue CPU only OC. The Ram works at 1866MHz but at what voltage? Try slightly less (.05) than factory spec. We can come back and tighten timing later.
> I'm sure by now you have those timings manually entered correct? Look back a couple posts where I posted my dram timings if your not sure what/where to enter.
> 
> It is possible your mobo isn't up to the task (with current settings) but maybe an equal chance that your CPU with THAT set of memory (2133MHz 4x4GB) just doesn't play well.
> Have you tried running only two Dimms? This might be an alternative if nothing else works.
> 2x8GB would have been a better way to go. Creates less stress on IMC.
> The 2133MHz could come in handy later on after you get a few things established. To soon to tell.
> 
> If you stay with all 4 dimms run them at 1866 with timings manually entered. Retest with that slightly lower Dram voltage.
> It's always a good thing to lock in the Dram Driving Control Freq and retest. Just enter what you currently see listed, this keeps the bios from making any changes you don't know about.
> Think, if you change Dram freq (1866 to 2133) or timings you'll want to reset these.
> 
> See how you make out and please post your current DIGI settings.
> CPUZ under the memory tab will show your current Dram timings which is helpful when posting test results. Doesn't your HWInfo show timings with latest version? Mine does.
> I wouldn't run it like that. 1.8v for stock settings? Somethings up lol.
> GSkill is known to usually clock pretty well. My 1866MHz (1.6v) kit runs stable as a rock even at 2400MHz without crazy voltage. 1.65v iirc.
> Something there is definitely fighting you. If your system/memory was heavily OC'd it'd be a different story but no, I wouldn't run 1.8v for default settings.


Sadly, memtest86 never got an error during the memory tests, to point it out as the culprit...
When I tried at 1866Mhz it was at 1.6v, didn't tweak arround it yet. Yes the timmings are all manually entered, even the Dram Driving Control, exactly to avoid BIOS changing automatically. I didn't try 2 dimms, but was also thinking about check it out.
Actually I was re-running IBT yesterday at 2133Mhz to post the snippet that I forgot to save, but it's not passing with exactly the same settings from before, so it's not fully stable.

I will take the weekend to do some tests at 1866Mhz, some game session and Prime95 too. I want to be sure that it's stable enough to call this my "stock" settings. The DIGI settings still the same, I'll post it later, and the timmings were the same, acctually I didn't tighten it to test at 1866Mhz, it was just a quick and dirty test, it still at 11-11-11-31 I will check on that too.

Also, my HWiNFO have the timming info too, but as I was not changing it I have select not to show, but I will put it back now.
Indeed I tought that 1.8v was too much, I saw your post saying you wouldn't go pass 1.70v - 1.75v, and even worse, for stock settings as you said.

Well, thanks again @The Sandman, I'm really grateful for your help, your were very kind (and patience). I will get back when I have more concrete stability tests to show, so we can continue the path to 5Ghz


----------



## ivanivanko

hello overclock.net guys,
one dude told me today that bclk overclock could hurt my graphic card. is that true? because of something "if motherboard doesnt hold pci e bus fixed"
i have 8350 clocked to 4.4ghz with gigabyte 970a-ud3p, bclk 220, multiplier stock, memory multiplier lowered, voltage 1.4v, other settings i didnt configure
all stress tests are going good
googling i also found some cases of doubt that bclk killed their ssd

any thoughts?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanivanko*
> 
> hello overclock.net guys,
> one dude told me today that bclk overclock could hurt my graphic card. is that true? because of something "if motherboard doesnt hold pci e bus fixed"
> i have 8350 clocked to 4.4ghz with gigabyte 970a-ud3p, bclk 220, multiplier stock, memory multiplier lowered, voltage 1.4v, other settings i didnt configure
> all stress tests are going good
> googling i also found some cases of doubt that bclk killed their ssd
> 
> any thoughts?


With AMD and HTT OCing you should ALWAYS manually enter 100mhz for PCIe Frequency.
Anything more is just asking for trouble.

When you have time give this a read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
it helps those helping you








And Welcome to OCN!!!


----------



## ivanivanko

believe it or not, i dont have option to set pci frequency manually, here is picture


and just to make sure, fsb/htt/bclk is the same thing?

so what should i do now, leave everything like it is, (its working good, no blue screens, every torture test is good) but keep in mind that i dont have a graphic card right now, i have but its old fanless nvidia 9200ge, playing only unreal tournament 1999)
i dont want any problems when real card comes, so should i revert bclk back to stock 200 and overclock 4.4ghz with multiplier only? but i read everywhere that bclk overclock is better


----------



## miklkit

Overclocking using just the multi is the easiest and safest way to go as it only OC's the CPU while the motherboard and ram stay at standard clocks.

FSB OCing overclocks everything; the ram, motherboard, and the cpu. This makes it more complicated but does give slightly better results in tests if it is done correctly. But at your level of overclock the difference would not be noticed in everyday use. IMO fsb overclocking only makes a difference at 4.8 and above.

What you should do is what your cpu/motherboard likes best. I use two very different motherboards. One likes mostly multi and a little fsb while the other likes mostly fsb and a little multi. They both achieve about the same OC and have similar performance. So do what is best for your hardware.


----------



## Mega Man

While he is right about it being easier see below
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanivanko*
> 
> believe it or not, i dont have option to set pci frequency manually, here is picture
> 
> 
> and just to make sure, fsb/htt/bclk is the same thing?
> 
> so what should i do now, leave everything like it is, (its working good, no blue screens, every torture test is good) but keep in mind that i dont have a graphic card right now, i have but its old fanless nvidia 9200ge, playing only unreal tournament 1999)
> i dont want any problems when real card comes, so should i revert bclk back to stock 200 and overclock 4.4ghz with multiplier only? but i read everywhere that bclk overclock is better


You don't need to worry about it on Gigabyte boards (am3+) I run 300 fsb without issue

Also have never heard of ocing pcie breaking gpus, but it can corrupt data ( ssds / hdds )

The fsb statement is more true with intels as intels lock the pcie to the fsb


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Stay on course at this point and continue CPU only OC. The Ram works at 1866MHz but at what voltage? Try slightly less (.05) than factory spec. We can come back and tighten timing later.
> I'm sure by now you have those timings manually entered correct? Look back a couple posts where I posted my dram timings if your not sure what/where to enter.
> 
> It is possible your mobo isn't up to the task (with current settings) but maybe an equal chance that your CPU with THAT set of memory (2133MHz 4x4GB) just doesn't play well.
> Have you tried running only two Dimms? This might be an alternative if nothing else works.
> 2x8GB would have been a better way to go. Creates less stress on IMC.
> The 2133MHz could come in handy later on after you get a few things established. To soon to tell.
> 
> If you stay with all 4 dimms run them at 1866 with timings manually entered. Retest with that slightly lower Dram voltage.
> It's always a good thing to lock in the Dram Driving Control Freq and retest. Just enter what you currently see listed, this keeps the bios from making any changes you don't know about.
> Think, if you change Dram freq (1866 to 2133) or timings you'll want to reset these.
> 
> See how you make out and please post your current DIGI settings.
> CPUZ under the memory tab will show your current Dram timings which is helpful when posting test results. Doesn't your HWInfo show timings with latest version? Mine does.
> I wouldn't run it like that. 1.8v for stock settings? Somethings up lol.
> GSkill is known to usually clock pretty well. My 1866MHz (1.6v) kit runs stable as a rock even at 2400MHz without crazy voltage. 1.65v iirc.
> Something there is definitely fighting you. If your system/memory was heavily OC'd it'd be a different story but no, I wouldn't run 1.8v for default settings.


I finally got it fully stable.
Here are my settings with the LLC that you asked @The Sandman.
I mannaged to get all the power saving features on, just need to bump a bit the Vcore to get it at the same voltage it was before inside Windows. But sadly I couldn't get my RAM to run @1866Mhz at 9-9-9.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Frequencies.
http://postimage.org/

Voltages.
http://postimage.org/

LLC Settings.
http://postimage.org/

Power Saving features.
http://postimage.org/



And here are my test results.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



IBT 20 passes on Very High.
http://postimg.org/image/ui2l2qrt1/full/

IBT 10 passes on Maximum.
http://postimg.org/image/d23tnb3gl/full/

Prime95 for 12 hours.
http://postimg.org/image/ue468qwxx/full/

Prime95 results.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Code:



Code:


[Sun Feb 28 20:50:33 2016]
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 20:57:15 2016]
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 21:02:17 2016]
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 21:09:11 2016]
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 21:16:04 2016]
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 21:22:22 2016]
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
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Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 21:29:01 2016]
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
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[Sun Feb 28 21:35:25 2016]
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
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[Sun Feb 28 21:41:59 2016]
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
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Self-test 960K passed!
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[Sun Feb 28 21:48:11 2016]
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
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Self-test 40K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 21:54:46 2016]
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
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[Sun Feb 28 22:00:37 2016]
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:07:26 2016]
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:13:29 2016]
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
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Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:19:25 2016]
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
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Self-test 1440K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:25:10 2016]
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
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Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:31:30 2016]
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
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Self-test 1600K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:37:32 2016]
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
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Self-test 112K passed!
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[Sun Feb 28 22:44:38 2016]
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:50:54 2016]
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 22:57:44 2016]
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:03:58 2016]
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:09:22 2016]
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:16:34 2016]
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:23:44 2016]
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:30:46 2016]
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:37:59 2016]
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:46:17 2016]
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
[Sun Feb 28 23:53:33 2016]
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:00:32 2016]
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:07:10 2016]
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:13:56 2016]
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:20:03 2016]
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:26:10 2016]
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:32:19 2016]
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:37:59 2016]
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:43:05 2016]
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:48:43 2016]
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:54:51 2016]
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 00:59:56 2016]
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:05:33 2016]
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:11:09 2016]
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:16:46 2016]
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:22:47 2016]
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:28:46 2016]
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:34:02 2016]
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:39:09 2016]
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:45:47 2016]
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:51:43 2016]
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 01:56:44 2016]
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:02:29 2016]
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:07:38 2016]
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:12:49 2016]
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:17:56 2016]
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:22:58 2016]
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:29:09 2016]
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 288K passed!
Self-test 288K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 288K passed!
Self-test 288K passed!
Self-test 288K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:35:22 2016]
Self-test 288K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:42:01 2016]
Self-test 288K passed!
Self-test 336K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 336K passed!
Self-test 288K passed!
Self-test 336K passed!
Self-test 336K passed!
Self-test 336K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:49:05 2016]
Self-test 336K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
Self-test 3072K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 02:55:24 2016]
Self-test 400K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
Self-test 336K passed!
Self-test 400K passed!
Self-test 336K passed!
Self-test 400K passed!
Self-test 400K passed!
Self-test 400K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:02:03 2016]
Self-test 3840K passed!
Self-test 400K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
Self-test 3840K passed!
Self-test 3456K passed!
Self-test 3840K passed!
Self-test 3840K passed!
Self-test 3840K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:08:32 2016]
Self-test 480K passed!
Self-test 3840K passed!
Self-test 400K passed!
Self-test 480K passed!
Self-test 400K passed!
Self-test 480K passed!
Self-test 480K passed!
Self-test 480K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:15:18 2016]
Self-test 4096K passed!
Self-test 480K passed!
Self-test 3840K passed!
Self-test 4096K passed!
Self-test 3840K passed!
Self-test 4096K passed!
Self-test 4096K passed!
Self-test 4096K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:22:08 2016]
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 4096K passed!
Self-test 480K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 480K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:29:06 2016]
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 4096K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 4096K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:35:36 2016]
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 512K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:42:37 2016]
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 8K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:49:06 2016]
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 640K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 03:55:23 2016]
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 12K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:01:55 2016]
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 768K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:08:03 2016]
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 20K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:14:17 2016]
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 864K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:20:20 2016]
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 28K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:26:11 2016]
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 960K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:32:27 2016]
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 40K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:38:49 2016]
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1152K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:44:22 2016]
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 56K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:50:22 2016]
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1280K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 04:55:24 2016]
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 72K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:00:42 2016]
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:05:51 2016]
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1440K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:11:30 2016]
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 84K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:17:56 2016]
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1600K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:24:23 2016]
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 112K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:30:43 2016]
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 1792K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:37:10 2016]
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 144K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:44:05 2016]
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2048K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:51:10 2016]
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 192K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 05:57:45 2016]
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2560K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:04:42 2016]
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 256K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:09:49 2016]
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:15:00 2016]
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 2880K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:20:08 2016]
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 320K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:26:58 2016]
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 3200K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:33:55 2016]
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 384K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:40:27 2016]
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 3584K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:47:22 2016]
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 448K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:53:06 2016]
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 576K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 06:59:13 2016]
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 10K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:04:58 2016]
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 672K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:10:49 2016]
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 16K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:17:12 2016]
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 800K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:23:14 2016]
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 24K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:29:40 2016]
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:35:06 2016]
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 896K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:40:39 2016]
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 32K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:46:01 2016]
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1024K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:51:16 2016]
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 48K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 07:56:28 2016]
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:02:01 2016]
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1200K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:07:57 2016]
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 64K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:14:16 2016]
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1344K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:20:04 2016]
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 80K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:25:13 2016]
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1536K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:30:26 2016]
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 96K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:36:00 2016]
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 1728K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:41:21 2016]
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 160K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:46:26 2016]
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 128K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 2304K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:52:01 2016]
Self-test 2304K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 1920K passed!
Self-test 224K passed!
[Mon Feb 29 08:58:35 2016]
Self-test 224K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 2688K passed!
Self-test 288K passed!
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I don't think I have much thermal margin to go further, CPU Socket Temp limit it's 72ºC and 60ºC on the Core right? Especially the Prime95 results show temps almost on that limit. Also I tried to get the CPU at 4,2Ghz with the same voltage but couldn't stabilize. Tried at 4,4Ghz with 1.325v but couldn't stabilize too, probably would have it increase it even more and the temps were getting higher (obviously).

What do you think?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> I finally got it fully stable.
> Here are my settings with the LLC that you asked @The Sandman.
> I mannaged to get all the power saving features on, just need to bump a bit the Vcore to get it at the same voltage it was before inside Windows. But sadly I couldn't get my RAM to run @1866Mhz at 9-9-9.
> 
> I don't think I have much thermal margin to go further, CPU Socket Temp limit it's 72ºC and 60ºC on the Core right? Especially the Prime95 results show temps almost on that limit. Also I tried to get the CPU at 4,2Ghz with the same voltage but couldn't stabilize. Tried at 4,4Ghz with 1.325v but couldn't stabilize too, probably would have it increase it even more and the temps were getting higher (obviously).
> 
> What do you think?


I think you're well on your way now, good job!
But I wouldn't claim fully stable yet. If it makes you feel any better I just failed P95 at 16 1/2 hrs in on a new OC lol.
Remember most claim 24 hr for full stability.

Depending on where you read AMD's AOD "Thermal Margin" shows 70-72c max for CPU Core temp but the AMD Product Resource Center claims Max temp of 61c http://products.amd.com/en-us/search/CPU/AMD-FX-Series/AMD-FX-8-Core-Black-Edition/FX-8350/92. I role with the first solution personally. (AOD)

Where did you come up with 72c for Socket temp?
From what I've come across/remember max socket temp on Asus mobos is 80ish (10c higher than core temp) and never have seen a link to documentation.

This brings up another point. Notice the 20c difference between your core and socket temps?
This can easily be lowered by adding an old HS fan mounted directly to blow onto VRM/Socket area. (remember lol?)
Most strive for a max diff of 10c. 20c diff is more than enough to cause heat soak (VRM to Socket) and is usually a good sign of excess VRM temps which is common with an octacore when under H2O.
When you remove CPU cooler w/fan you also remove any air flow over VRMs. Not a good thing. You'll want to replace that lost air flow. It will help the socket.

Once you have CPU Socket temp under control you have a little headroom but remember the temps don't scale evenly with added Vcore. You've already seen this right?
That H55 will be the next issue temp wise but holding on for now.

In Bios it's best to Disable
CPU Spread Spectrum
PCIe " "
EPU Power Saving Mode
and I won't mention that 2600MHz NB again


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I think you're well on your way now, good job!
> But I wouldn't claim fully stable yet. If it makes you feel any better I just failed P95 at 16 1/2 hrs in on a new OC lol.
> Remember most claim 24 hr for full stability.
> 
> Depending on where you read AMD's AOD "Thermal Margin" shows 70-72c max for CPU Core temp but the AMD Product Resource Center claims Max temp of 61c http://products.amd.com/en-us/search/CPU/AMD-FX-Series/AMD-FX-8-Core-Black-Edition/FX-8350/92. I role with the first solution personally. (AOD)
> 
> Where did you come up with 72c for Socket temp?
> From what I've come across/remember max socket temp on Asus mobos is 80ish (10c higher than core temp) and never have seen a link to documentation.
> 
> This brings up another point. Notice the 20c difference between your core and socket temps?
> This can easily be lowered by adding an old HS fan mounted directly to blow onto VRM/Socket area. (remember lol?)
> Most strive for a max diff of 10c. 20c diff is more than enough to cause heat soak (VRM to Socket) and is usually a good sign of excess VRM temps which is common with an octacore when under H2O.
> When you remove CPU cooler w/fan you also remove any air flow over VRMs. Not a good thing. You'll want to replace that lost air flow. It will help the socket.
> 
> Once you have CPU Socket temp under control you have a little headroom but remember the temps don't scale evenly with added Vcore. You've already seen this right?
> That H55 will be the next issue temp wise but holding on for now.
> 
> In Bios it's best to Disable
> CPU Spread Spectrum
> PCIe " "
> EPU Power Saving Mode
> and I won't mention that 2600MHz NB again


I know most people claim 24 hours on Prime95 to comprove stability, but one full pass on IBT at maximum and 12 hours on Prime95 it's enough for me, at least for now (4Ghz).

Oh, good to know that I still have some margin to OC, I don't know where I saw about the 72ºC, probably I made a mistake and it's the CPU Core limit as you said.
I do remember about the fan you said to use blowing directly on the VRM, I tried it, but I don't know where to fix it, can you show me some image of how can I do that?
And yes, I tought about that, indeed if I success I'm thinking about a H80i because my case only allow 120mm radioators, so it's the best I can get and will problably use the H55 on the bottom for the GPU that still with the stock cooler.

About the settings in BIOS you recommended to disable, should I disable even for normal daily usage?
I activate those settings, including the 2600Mhz NB after a first passes on all those tests, then I tested it all again, to save these as my "stock" settings...
I know I should disable all the power saving features when OCing, and I already did when I tried, including those you mentioned and Cool and Quiet, APM, etc. and returned the NB to the stock 2200Mhz, I know I would only try that after getting a fully stable system, right?


----------



## Mega Man

stability is subjective, do what you think is best, with that said at least do some !

power saving is personal. i enable them ( on my gigabytes rev3 i do not enable apm as it will cause BSOD )

if using manual voltages you WILL NOT drop voltage you HAVE TO use offset !

also a common mistake is not to lower min cpu freq ( under power options ) in windows -to less then 100%


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> I do remember about the fan you said to use blowing directly on the VRM, I tried it, but I don't know where to fix it, can you show me some image of how can I do that?
> And yes, I tought about that, indeed if I success I'm thinking about a H80i because my case only allow 120mm radioators, so it's the best I can get and will problably use the H55 on the bottom for the GPU that still with the stock cooler.
> 
> About the settings in BIOS you recommended to disable, should I disable even for normal daily usage?


Here is one http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/57020#post_24808716 take a look at the rig sig cooling solution too.
Mine is attached with zip ties hanging to the left of the upper/lower cpu wb posts and is almost touching vrm hs. Center of fan is aimed between vrm and cpu. (faces mobo)
Some are able to use screws through the fan into the gap/s between the cooling fins on the hs.

Have you considered going with a external rad in the future? Not that big of gain with a H80i.

Yes most do. (bios settings)


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> stability is subjective, do what you think is best, with that said at least do some !
> 
> power saving is personal. i enable them ( on my gigabytes rev3 i do not enable apm as it will cause BSOD )
> 
> if using manual voltages you WILL NOT drop voltage you HAVE TO use offset !
> 
> also a common mistake is not to lower min cpu freq ( under power options ) in windows -to less then 100%


Yeah, I'm using offset voltages and I already strangled with the power options (in Windows), it's all fine now, thanks!!


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Here is one http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/57020#post_24808716 take a look at the rig sig cooling solution too.
> Mine is attached with zip ties hanging to the left of the upper/lower cpu wb posts and is almost touching vrm hs. Center of fan is aimed between vrm and cpu. (faces mobo)
> Some are able to use screws through the fan into the gap/s between the cooling fins on the hs.
> 
> Have you considered going with a external rad in the future? Not that big of gain with a H80i.
> 
> Yes most do. (bios settings)


Ok, I think I got it. I attached it on the top and on the bottom fan screws using zip ties, it's sitting on the top of the socket and almost touching the VRM, like yours I think.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





And here are the temps after 45 mins on Prime95, just to compare.

http://postimage.org/



I never really tought about an external radiator, indeed I could use one on the top, but I don't like much the idea of external things.

My next step should be OC using only just the CPU ratio for now? How much should I aim for at first? 4,4Ghz?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> I never really tought about an external radiator, indeed I could use one on the top, but I don't like much the idea of external things.
> 
> My next step should be OC using only just the CPU ratio for now? How much should I aim for at first? 4,4Ghz?


Yes stay with a CPU "multiplier only" OC and continue till you reach your thermal limits (temp/voltage wise) and as stable as you wish to be.
At that point you'll have an everyday OC Profile to save. This than gives you time to enjoy the spoils and only work on the next OC more at leisure.

All you can do is see how temps act as you go. I have a feeling it won't take long. Play with the socket fan location and try varying the angle a bit. It may surprise you to see an even bigger gain.
If your case allows or with a little DIY you can always add another fan blowing on the back side of the mobo with the center of the fan (dead spot) aimed directly in between the socket and VRMs (they both have back plates) for a few more degrees and possibly even more head room.

Here's a really old pic of my first WC setup with a rear external mount http://cdn.overclock.net/7/78/900x900px-LL-78f53575_81fdc68b23456b4f41e2bd15aa340768.jpeg


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Yes stay with a CPU "multiplier only" OC and continue till you reach your thermal limits (temp/voltage wise) and as stable as you wish to be.
> At that point you'll have an everyday OC Profile to save. This than gives you time to enjoy the spoils and only work on the next OC more at leisure.
> 
> All you can do is see how temps act as you go. I have a feeling it won't take long. Play with the socket fan location and try varying the angle a bit. It may surprise you to see an even bigger gain.
> If your case allows or with a little DIY you can always add another fan blowing on the back side of the mobo with the center of the fan (dead spot) aimed directly in between the socket and VRMs (they both have back plates) for a few more degrees and possibly even more head room.
> 
> Here's a really old pic of my first WC setup with a rear external mount http://cdn.overclock.net/7/78/900x900px-LL-78f53575_81fdc68b23456b4f41e2bd15aa340768.jpeg


Ok, I will try that, thanks once again.


----------



## rderubeis

If i want to overclock my amd 8320 fx to 4.2 is it safe with the cool master 212 evo and the asus m5a97 motherboard, and should i copy the settings exactly the same that they show with the asus motherboard on this site.


----------



## miklkit

Nobody would recommend that you copy those settings exactly as all systems are different. You should use that as the guide it is intended to be and experiment to find the settings that work best for you. 4.2 is certainly easy to do.


----------



## rderubeis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Nobody would recommend that you copy those settings exactly as all systems are different. You should use that as the guide it is intended to be and experiment to find the settings that work best for you. 4.2 is certainly easy to do.


will any settings in the bios help lower temps, because im able to go to 4.2 and play games. i dont blue screen or anything. I been currently at 4.0 i just tried 4.2 and my temps only went up a little. I was idling at 30c when i went to 4.2.


----------



## miklkit

If you are going to overclock, then you will need to stress test your setup. Go here and get IBT AVX. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 Ten passes on standard will give you a good baseline to work from.

You will also need to monitor your voltages and temperatures. Google HWINFO64 and install it. With both of them installed and running it should end up looking a little like this. 

These will give us a snap shot of how your system is doing. It will show us if your system is stable and what temperatures and voltages you are running. Only then will anyone really be able to help you.


----------



## Havardox

I have ADATA DDR3 RAM at 1333Mhz. Do I really need my RAM to be at 1600Mhz when overclocking a FX 8350 CPU?


----------



## MrPerforations

hello,
no, it will work with any speed.


----------



## rderubeis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> If you are going to overclock, then you will need to stress test your setup. Go here and get IBT AVX. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 Ten passes on standard will give you a good baseline to work from.
> 
> You will also need to monitor your voltages and temperatures. Google HWINFO64 and install it. With both of them installed and running it should end up looking a little like this.
> 
> These will give us a snap shot of how your system is doing. It will show us if your system is stable and what temperatures and voltages you are running. Only then will anyone really be able to help you.


So if i install those and screenshot it, you will be able to let me know if im stable at 4.2. is the asus m5a97 safe to overclock my amd 8320fx with the cool master 212 evo.


----------



## Havardox

Let me rephrase my question: Does higher frequency RAM benefit CPU overclocking stabilty. Is my 1333 Mhz RAM sufficient?


----------



## Havardox

Quote:


> I have ADATA DDR3 RAM at 1333Mhz. Do I really need my RAM to be at 1600Mhz when overclocking a FX 8350 CPU?


Let me rephrase my question: Does higher frequency RAM benefit CPU overclocking stabilty. Is my 1333 Mhz RAM sufficient?


----------



## miklkit

Which Asus m5a97 version do you have? Is it the LE R2, R2, or the EVO/PRO? The LE doesn't have a VRM heat sink, the R2 does, and the EVO has 6+2 VRMs compared to 4+2 VRMs of the LE and R2. The LE would probably run hot and limit the OC but the others should do fine up to the limits of the 212.

Higher speed ram makes for a snappier system but doesn't make it more stable. See how far you can go with just using the multiplier and then start to work on the ram.


----------



## rderubeis

I honestly don't kno which 1 i have. On the box all it says is asus m5a97
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Which Asus m5a97 version do you have? Is it the LE R2, R2, or the EVO/PRO? The LE doesn't have a VRM heat sink, the R2 does, and the EVO has 6+2 VRMs compared to 4+2 VRMs of the LE and R2. The LE would probably run hot and limit the OC but the others should do fine up to the limits of the 212.
> 
> Higher speed ram makes for a snappier system but doesn't make it more stable. See how far you can go with just using the multiplier and then start to work on the ram.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rderubeis*
> 
> I honestly don't kno which 1 i have. On the box all it says is asus m5a97


It's printed on the mobo


----------



## ivanivanko

hey guys, can any game or some real life program cause the mbo and cpu to heat like under prime95 small ffts? i have problems with motherboard (vrm) throttling when using small ffts which bothers me, like every 1min frequency drops down to 1400mhz for a few seconds. other than that, overclock is stable, so i wonder will cpu also throttle under some game (causing big lags) or working something?

*its because of motherboard, not some setting, checked hundred times.
*this happens only on small ffts (cpu oriented testing for what i know), while working large ffts everything is good and like 8c lower temperatures without throttling


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanivanko*
> 
> hey guys, can any game or some real life program cause the mbo and cpu to heat like under prime95 small ffts? i have problems with motherboard (vrm) throttling when using small ffts which bothers me, like every 1min frequency drops down to 1400mhz for a few seconds. other than that, overclock is stable, so i wonder will cpu also throttle under some game (causing big lags) or working something?
> 
> *its because of motherboard, not some setting, checked hundred times.
> *this happens only on small ffts (cpu oriented testing for what i know), while working large ffts everything is good and like 8c lower temperatures without throttling


If it throttles it ain't stable right? It is not able to work under full load.
Not knowing what you have (http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig will help a lot) it's hard to recommend.
Do you have active cooling on the VRMs? Please fill out your rig sig so we all know what there is to deal with.

Wouldn't hurt to post a snip of HWInfo64 and some IBT AVX running on Very High setting and we'll look things over a bit.
And no, normally you won't find an everyday program that creates as much heat as P95.
I'll wait for more info before going further.

Edit:
I noticed your rig sig is added, thank you.
I can never remember which one it is but Giga UD3 does have a hard coded bios issue with throttling VRMs prematurely due to temps iirc.


----------



## ivanivanko

i run intelburn very high 20 passes with hw monitor last night but deleted screenshot accidentally








it was success,
but i remember how it went,
time for first lipack output was like 219 seconds, after that when it got hot and motherboard was throttling results were about 225 seconds for other outputs and 1 gflops less
temperatures were fine, max 57/58c for motherboard and cpu (but even then motherboard throttles







)

now im asking you will i have throttling issues in real life using of computer, gaming or something (dont have real graphic card now so cant test gaming, on nvidia 9200ge at the moment







), i understand that intelburn and prime95 small ffts are extreme tests with maximum heat possible - and only then i have problems with throttling, keep in mind that prime95 large ffts which is i think also pretty heavy stress test i have 10c less temperature and no throttling, is like most cpu hungry game or some rendering close to even prime95 large ffts heat? if not, then im pretty cool and will keep my overclock and amd build - i bought intel i7 and mbo mad because of throttling, but yesterday came to my mind that maybe throttling problem is only under silly extreme stress tests and that i wont have any problems in everyday using of computer whatever i do


----------



## miklkit

If it is throttling, then your motherboard is overheating. Put a fan on the VRMs and it might stop throttling. All the heat will cause the motherboard to wear out faster anyway, so it is in your best interest to keep it cool. Any fan will do, even the one on the stock heat sink.


----------



## IronMonkey187

I noticed that i can get a stable 10min run Prime95 Small FTT's but a big fail on IBT AVX (first result being -1blablabla)....


----------



## IronMonkey187

Also, The non-AVX IBT is much slower than the AVX IBT but it generates more heat.....


----------



## Mega Man

... yeah your doing something wrong


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> I noticed that i can get a stable 10min run Prime95 Small FTT's but a big fail on IBT AVX (first result being -1blablabla)....


-x.xxx results are "usually" a lack of Vcore. FX8xxx/9xxx usually require around the 3.6xx to 3.8xx when running Very High setting.

The reason Prime95 didn't show the instability is you only let it run 10 minutes.
This is a good reason to consider IBT as a prerequisite to Prime95. It finds instability quicker in the early stages of testing a new OC.


----------



## Mega Man

Avx WILL generate more heat then non avx


----------



## cranfam

This guide has been very helpful. My have things gotten easier since my last foray into the oc world.


----------



## IronMonkey187

Amd FX8350,
Sabertooth 990FX R2.0,
4x4GB Geil Golden Dragon 1600MHz [email protected]
MSI R9 390 8GB
Corsair RM750 psu
Case: CM Trooper

Highest stable clock using a Corsair H100i cooler. What am I doing wrong?

CPU LLC = high
All other settings as recommended in the guide....
Considering to change the case fans to get more airflow.


----------



## mirzet1976

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronMonkey187*
> 
> 
> 
> Amd FX8350,
> Sabertooth 990FX R2.0,
> 4x4GB Geil Golden Dragon 1600MHz [email protected]
> MSI R9 390 8GB
> Corsair RM750 psu
> Case: CM Trooper
> 
> Highest stable clock using a Corsair H100i cooler. What am I doing wrong?
> 
> CPU LLC = high
> All other settings as recommended in the guide....
> Considering to change the case fans to get more airflow.


Now all you need to fine-tune the RAM and CPU-NB voltage and freq - Digi+

CPU-LLC = 1 up





And this is necessarily


----------



## IronMonkey187

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> Now all you need to fine-tune the RAM and CPU-NB voltage and freq - Digi+
> 
> CPU-LLC = 1 up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And this is necessarily


A bit improvised:


----------



## A-rank

Ohhh damm...

People getting at 4,8GHz with 1,42v - 1,45v really? I cant stabilize at 4,6GHz even with 1,44v and he temps start going crazy...


----------



## MrPerforations

I agree, even the h100 was not much good, don't panic, its not really a massive improvement.








and being able to hear over the fans is a good option.








I had to spend £200 for water cooling and got a 4.6, I should have got an I7 really, but its silent.


----------



## miklkit

How old is your 8350? My early 8350 needs 1.524 vcore to run 4.8 stable while my 8370 can do 4.8 @ 1.476 vcore. Then the H55 isn't the best cooler around.


----------



## A-rank

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> How old is your 8350? My early 8350 needs 1.524 vcore to run 4.8 stable while my 8370 can do 4.8 @ 1.476 vcore. Then the H55 isn't the best cooler around.


It's almost 3 years old...


----------



## miklkit

Mine is a over 3 years old. I had the same thing going on. Everyone else was getting these high clocks at low voltages and it was driving me nuts. ( short trip ) The 8370 is way better at getting higher clocks with less voltage but the 8350 is a really tuff trooper.


----------



## F3ERS 2 ASH3S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *A-rank*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> How old is your 8350? My early 8350 needs 1.524 vcore to run 4.8 stable while my 8370 can do 4.8 @ 1.476 vcore. Then the H55 isn't the best cooler around.
> 
> 
> 
> It's almost 3 years old...
Click to expand...

The e versions that came out about a year ago I think are the ones with the low power and the 8370 has the more mature process behind it with the better binning. 3 years is pushing before the behemoth 9570 was pushed out in that hungry hungry hippo eating all the volts


----------



## peraltica7

hello guys , first say that I am Spanish and English not handling well .
this is my first oc a fx 8320 , I only 4ghz that think?





Load prime
http://i65.tinypic.com/16bym95.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/t658k3.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/b9apsg.jpg
Motherboard M5A97 EVO rev 2.0
Cooler zalman cnps10x óptima
Box zalman R1
Powersupply antec vpf650
Ram gskill sniper 2x4 8gb
R9 270X


----------



## MrPerforations

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peraltica7*
> 
> hello guys , first say that I am Spanish and English not handling well .
> this is my first oc a fx 8320 , I only 4ghz that think?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Load prime
> http://i65.tinypic.com/16bym95.jpg
> http://i63.tinypic.com/t658k3.jpg
> http://i67.tinypic.com/b9apsg.jpg
> Motherboard M5A97 EVO rev 2.0
> Cooler zalman cnps10x óptima
> Box zalman R1
> Powersupply antec vpf650
> Ram gskill sniper 2x4 8gb
> R9 270X


looks good.
you have thermal room for more if you can.


----------



## peraltica7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrPerforations*
> 
> looks good.
> you have thermal room for more if you can.


as you see temperatures ? which is not the temperature of the nuclei , it seems very low , no?


----------



## Havardox

Hey guys, I re-enabled the Cool'n'Quiet after I found my stable overclock, but it doesn't work anymore. The problem is that the CPU clock and voltage stays the same, even on idle. Help?


----------



## cranfam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havardox*
> 
> Hey guys, I re-enabled the Cool'n'Quiet after I found my stable overclock, but it doesn't work anymore. The problem is that the CPU clock and voltage stays the same, even on idle. Help?


What are your power options set to in Windows? They should be set to balanced.


----------



## Havardox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cranfam*
> 
> What are your power options set to in Windows? They should be set to balanced.


They are at balanced. I tried the power saver option, but that only changes the clock, not the voltage


----------



## Mega Man

I bet you are using manual voltage not offset in bios


----------



## j0keri

hello can someone help me. i got fx8320 and motherboard is asus m5a78l le. power is modecom 530w. i want to overclock 3,5ghrz to 4 if i can. im new and not speaking or understand england very well but if someone can give me instructions ill be very thankful. thank you.


----------



## The Sandman

Welcome to OCN!

Sorry but that mobo is no where near capable of OCing period.
It only has a 3+1 Phase Count and is not meant to OC with. 6+2 is my lower limit for an FX.


Here is the thread http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database

Bad things could easily happen, my advise is to not OC at all on that setup. Personally I would fear running a 125w FX8320 on that mobo and PSU.

Not a good first reply but I have to honest on this one.


----------



## Mega Man




----------



## j0keri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> Sorry but that mobo is no where near capable of OCing period.
> It only has a 3+1 Phase Count and is not meant to OC with. 6+2 is my lower limit for an FX.
> 
> 
> Here is the thread http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database
> 
> Bad things could easily happen, my advise is to not OC at all on that setup. Personally I would fear running a 125w FX8320 on that mobo and PSU.
> 
> Not a good first reply but I have to honest on this one.


thank you for your answer so i need different motherboard if i understanded correctly?


----------



## miklkit

You understand correctly.


----------



## j0keri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> You understand correctly.


can you or someone recommend motherboard? Not so pricy.Do I need To Do anything Else or upgrade?


----------



## Duality92

gigabyte 990fxa-ud3.


----------



## cranfam

I have an ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0. When I receive my new water cooler, I want to try for 5 Ghz on my 8350. Is there any reason I shouldn't with my current board?


----------



## Duality92

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cranfam*
> 
> I have an ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0. When I receive my new water cooler, I want to try for 5 Ghz on my 8350. Is there any reason I shouldn't with my current board?


That board is fine for high clocks, but just cool the VRM like all other boards.


----------



## cranfam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duality92*
> 
> That board is fine for high clocks, but just cool the VRM like all other boards.


Just put a couple of fans over them to cool them?


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0keri*
> 
> can you or someone recommend motherboard? Not so pricy.Do I need To Do anything Else or upgrade?


Look at the chart Sandman provided and go up the list until you hit your price limit. The gigabyte UD3 is a good board with a suspect bios.


----------



## j0keri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Look at the chart Sandman provided and go up the list until you hit your price limit. The gigabyte UD3 is a good board with a suspect bios.


i really dont understand all those numbers and all







dont know what i need or dont need


----------



## mirzet1976

For FX8XXX you need motherboard with VRM 6+2 or higher.


----------



## j0keri

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mirzet1976*
> 
> For FX8XXX you need motherboard with VRM 6+2 or higher.


ok thnx. i m little new and stubid with these i tryed google that but didnt understand what it is. ill see that list and check only 6+2 then?


----------



## mirzet1976

It is up to you, depending on whether you want the CPU to OC and how much you will have to spend on the motherboard


----------



## j0keri

http://www.jimms.fi/fi/Product/Show/97370/ga-970a-ud3p/gigabyte-ga-970a-ud3p-amd-am3-970-sb950-ddr3-atx
will this work??


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0keri*
> 
> http://www.jimms.fi/fi/Product/Show/97370/ga-970a-ud3p/gigabyte-ga-970a-ud3p-amd-am3-970-sb950-ddr3-atx
> will this work??


Yes it does meet what you'll want/need to OC, but with one short fall.
I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong) as already mentioned the UD3 is known to have a hard coded bios issue where the VRM temps cause "Throttling" prematurely.

I know of a couple Asus M5a99FX Pro 2.0 that run 8350's at 5GHz (water cooled) which is the next factor, the cooling solution.
Plan ahead, if you have 5.0GHz in mind (who at OCN doesn't right?) plan on water cooling. No sense in investing big money into a air cooling setup unless you can be happy in the 4.5 to 4.6GHz and that might be pushing it. It all depends on the chip you receive, each one is different. I'm glad I had a CPU only loop when I had my 8350, they can run VERY hot at 4.8 even when under water.

One more thought to consider is the higher chipset usually requires slightly less voltage in turn produces less heat.
Personally I'd recommend Asus over Giga simply due to the bios being more user friendly. That's just my opinion, not meaning to diss on Giga at all.

No matter which mobo you go with ALWAYS add active cooling for the VRM's and CPU Socket.
I do even with WC'd VRM/NB.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Remember, there are no stupid questions. We were all new to OCing at one point


----------



## Mega Man

With the exception of " honey do I look fat in this"


----------



## dmnclocker

I have a question. I wasnt able to get my processor past 4.9.I tried 5 Ghz, but I got an illegal summout error in Prime95. Is it OK to go past 1.5 volts as long as I don't go over 62 core and 72 socket?
Btw, for anyone that might be having issues getting higher overclocks I have a solution. I'm new to pc building and this was my first pc and I didn't realize that to get higher overclocks you should plug the 8 pin and the 4 pin plug into your motherboard for cpu. It was running on just the 8 pin, but I was only able to get to 4.7 Ghz. Now I'm almost getting 5.0.


----------



## Mega Man

Yes your fine if you can cool it, generally recommended temps are actually 70 core 70 socket


----------



## dmnclocker

I was able to get to 4.8 with running a custom test on prime for 3 hrs without fail. Is that long enough? To get higher overclock than 4.8 I need to add more than 1.5 volts for a 4.9 overclock. Is there a safe level for the volts for Amd fx 8350? I just don't wanna bump it up to high, because I seen a lot of pple post don't go past 1.5. I also have a question about running my Prime95 test. I run small fft on the 4.9 and 5ghz with no crash and when I set custom using 75% of ram which I have 16 Gb, so that would be 12288 it fails. Is this still the best way to stress test? Thanks for reply Btw.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> I was able to get to 4.8 with running a custom test on prime for 3 hrs without fail. Is that long enough? To get higher overclock than 4.8 I need to add more than 1.5 volts for a 4.9 overclock. Is there a safe level for the volts for Amd fx 8350? I just don't wanna bump it up to high, because I seen a lot of pple post don't go past 1.5. I also have a question about running my Prime95 test. I run small fft on the 4.9 and 5ghz with no crash and when I set custom using 75% of ram which I have 16 Gb, so that would be 12288 it fails. Is this still the best way to stress test? Thanks for reply Btw.


My 8350 ran 1.524v Vcore for 4822MHz 24 hr P95 Blend and many other tests.
Voltage usually isn't the killer it's high temps that will degrade your chip. It's fairly common to exceed 1.5 above 4.8 to 4.9GHz.
Some do better than others (silicon lottery) and the lower your temps the less voltage needed.

Add some active cooling to the VRM/Socket area as it can help prevent heat soak. This is a must when under water.

For testing in the early stages I run IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
I start with 10 to 20 runs set to Very High and after passing that move to Maximum setting for a 20 run pass.
IBT will show instabilities quicker than Prime95 (just not as thorough). I use this as a prerequisite to a 24 hr run of P95 as it saves some time.

It's up to your want's/needs as to how stable you'll need to be. Stability is very subjective these days with so many that just game and don't mind reinstalling the OS lol.
IMHO if you claim to be stable you should be able to pass all tests, not just some. That's just how I role


----------



## dmnclocker

Thanks for the reply. My temps at idle is 11 package and 30 socket. When I added fan to back of mobo it went down to 26. Is that good temps?


----------



## FlailScHLAMP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. My temps at idle is 11 package and 30 socket. When I added fan to back of mobo it went down to 26. Is that good temps?


Idle temps on the cores are vastly inaccurate. based on your socket temps that sounds appropriate.


Spoiler: Warning: my read out with rear socket fan, less voltage and likely more amperage!


----------



## dmnclocker

Do you permanently leave the fans over vrm, or just when you stress test?


----------



## FlailScHLAMP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmnclocker*
> 
> Do you permanently leave the fans over vrm, or just when you stress test?


I've got a quiet 60mm fan (iirc) i just run all the time. its on a 7v molex/sata adapter. same with the rear fan, cept its a 92mm i think.. runs at 7v all the time


----------



## The Sandman

Mine stays in place and runs off a fan controller so there's options (90 x 25mm, 2100 rpm).


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Mega Man

mine is called "waterblock"

works great !


----------



## bbowseroctacore

tee hee ^ - fans are still good when benching though


----------



## dmnclocker

That's weird. I was able to pass a p95 custom test using 75%ram for 3 hrs, but when I ran blend for 25 min it failed?


----------



## ltpdttcdft

Different Prime95 settings will stress the CPU differently. It is possible to be stable in one and not another. You could be stable in Blend for 24 hours and fail In-Place FFTs in a few minutes. If lowering clockspeed / increasing Vcore doesn't help you might try adding voltage on the CPU-NB


----------



## dmnclocker

I have to be stable in all the tests then?


----------



## ltpdttcdft

If you want rock-solid stability (like if you are doing work or serious hobbies), then yes. Otherwise if you're just doing some casual gaming as long as it doesn't crash your games you're fine.


----------



## dmnclocker

K cool. I'm just gaming and web browsing.


----------



## ltpdttcdft

Should be fine then. Just be aware any if you run into errors/strange behavior the first thing to suspect is your OC isn't stable for that particular game or task.


----------



## dmnclocker

ok. Thank you.


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Do you guys to 75% of total or available RAM?


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltpdttcdft*
> 
> Should be fine then. Just be aware any if you run into errors/strange behavior the first thing to suspect is your OC isn't stable for that particular game or task.


Fixed for you
You either are stable or not. If you want to fix that is up to you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrymelocke*
> 
> Do you guys to 75% of total or available RAM?


I do 80% but this is preference. The more ram you use the better


----------



## TheGrymelocke

Do you calculate that 80% out of your total ram or what is available at the time? For instance: I have 8GB ram, but when everything is loaded and I'm in RAPID mode on my SSD I only have about 5.5GB ram left. So would I set it at 80% of 5.5 or 80% of 8GB?


----------



## Mega Man

If you do too much it crashes (as it is out of ram, not nessisarily unstable)

I would disable rapid mode and test then realize enable it

Esp if you are using ram for data. I would make sure it is stable


----------



## jdese001

need some advice on how to proceed, this is my first time overclocking
what i have:
CPU: fx 3820
MBO: M5a99x evo R2.0
Cooler: H115i extreme perfomance
ram: 16gb 1333MHz
PSU: EVGA 750W G2

i followed the guide exactly, right now I'm at 4.5GHz at 1.425V, and passed a 10 min small FFT in prime95, my max temp under the load was 72c socket temp and 54c core temp, so I'm right at the limit for socket temp after only 10min, i assume after 6-12 hours i would exceed that,and if i fail during the long test i would have to increase the voltage and try again, unless I'm just being over cautious, before i was at 4.4ghz at 1.39v and no issues after the 10 min test, my max temp was 68c socket and 48c core, which has some wiggle room,
so which do you think i should stick with for the final clock speed?


----------



## miklkit

Your motherboard is a good one that does overheat the VRMs easily, and it sounds like that is what is happening to you. Take a look at the pictures here for some ideas on what will work for you. The fan off the stock heat sink will work.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1510126/cooling-vrms-with-a-fan


----------



## jdese001

thats an option, i would just have to figure it the layout, what do you think about putting it behind the mbo, or i can just suck it up and deal with a fan thrown in to my nicely laid out setup lol, i don't know where i would plug that fan in for power, i have 3 case fan slots taken up, the only other spot i can see is a port labeled CPU OPT next to the Cpu fan spot

here are some pics of my set up and the stock cpu fan i have


----------



## The Sandman

I run a 90mm inside attached to wb mounts w/zip ties and a 120mm on back side


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







The things we do when we get really bored


----------



## jdese001

so i ran another test with the fan over the vrm and temps were 4c cooler but now I'm getting the bsod, which is weird bc i went 10 min fine before, looks like I'm just gonna settle with the 4.4gz at 1.39v and have temps with some wiggle room from the limits


----------



## The Sandman

In the early stages of testing my OC I prefer IBT *AVX* version found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
This is NOT the same version most commonly DL'd off the web.

It will find instability faster (again in the early stages) over P95 which can save a lot of time.
I start by passing 10 runs set to Very High and follow with a 20 pass run set to Maximum before moving onto a 24 hr run of Prime95 Blend.

If you'd like help with IBT or P95 feel free to post back any ???'s.

When you have time this is another good read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
It'll make life more simple for those trying to help you and you won't have to answer the same questions about your system









Good luck and have fun!


----------



## jdese001

so i started over from scratch, and was doing prime95 small FFT for 30min at a time, re-followed the guide, i ran 4ghz @ the stock voltage of 1.344 for 30 min, no issues, so i increased to 4.1ghz at the stock voltage and my pc froze at about 25min, so i bumped the voltage up 3 points to 1.3625v and ran prime95 again and froze again at 25 min, so i bumped up another voltage point to 1.36875v and then i froze at 30min of prime95, so i figured i was making progress, i then upped the voltage another point to 1.375v and froze at 10min of prime95, doesn't make any sense to me

doing 30 min prime95 test is very time consuming, maybe ill have better luck with your method

last night i was trying to get 4.4ghz stable at 1.39v, i moved on from passing a 10 min test to 30min, then got the bsod, i upped the voltage to 1.4v and got the bsod at 30 min, kept repeating the process of upping the voltage until i gave up at 1.425v bc i was 70c socket temp, any further it was just gunna get hotter, i stopped getting the Bsod after 1.4v and the computer just turned off and the computer said overclock failure when it went to reboot after every voltage increase above 1.4v and the test only lasted about 30-40 min each time, so thats why i restarted from scratch and I'm gunna try and get a 4.3ghz stable clock


----------



## The Sandman

Start by entering as many values as you know for stock settings.

The AMD stock Vcore (mobo reads this and alters it) for your CPU can be found with HWInfo64 listed as "Core #0 VID" and the AMD stock CPU/NB Voltage is displayed as "NB VID". Top two items here


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Make sure to read the Maximum header if C&Q is enabled.

A couple hints running P95,
A BSOD is "usually" a lack of Vcore
Freezing is "usually" a lack of Dram Voltage or CPU/NB Voltage. Sometimes a combination of the two.


----------



## jdese001

so i think my screensaver was causing the freeze, ever since i disabled it i haven't froze. at 4.1ghz i tested up from the stock voltage 1.344v to 1.375 bc every time i froze i went up a point, after disabling the screensaver, i worked my way back to 1.35v @ 4.1ghz with out any problems 45 min test for each volt point reduction, it had to be my screensaver, i just clicked it off everytime it came on, i guess it was enough to cause prime95 and my computer to freeze, i could stay at 4.1ghz @ 1.35V, my socket temp max 58c and core temp 43c, and begin the full test for stability, but i feel like the M5a99x evo r2.0 6+2 is a good board the vrm just tends to get pretty hot quickly at the higher voltage, so i feel i could push it to 4.2gz or 4.3ghz, if it seems like to much ill stick with 4.1ghz


----------



## jdese001

so I'm staying at 4.3ghz @ 1.368V, completed an hour small FFT with no issues, max socket temp 62c and max core temp 47c, how to do the blend test, i ran the standard blend test and got the bsod within minutes, so ill increase vcore and test again but my question is should i do the custom setting with same settings as blend standard and just change the memory usage to 75% of 16gb of ram for 24hrs or just stick with the standard for 24hrs?


----------



## The Sandman

I prefer Blend for the 24 hr and follow with 6 to 8 hrs of 75% Custom.
But I do this after IBT AVX and HCI MemTest and some OCCT.


----------



## jdese001

so i just completed 25 hours and 29min of a prime95 blend test with no errors or warnings, but the workers fluctuated in the amount of test they did,

4.3ghz @1.38v

worker #1: 192 test
worker #2: 208 test
worker #3: 209 test
worker #4: 220 test
worker #5: 191 test
worker #6: 214 test
worker #7: 216 test
worker #8: 222 test

is this normal to have?


----------



## jacqlittle

Yes, it's normal that some workers are quickers than others...


----------



## jdese001

so i considered my system stable at 4.3ghz @ 1.38v after no issues from a final 25hr blend test. but i noticed that my 2x8gb(16gb) 1866mhz ram was only running at 1333mhz, so i increased it to 1600mhz and my dram is already set at 1.5v, so i followed with a custom blend test with 12000mb of ram (75% of my ram), and it froze at 50 min into the test, The Sandman said above "Freezing is "usually" a lack of Dram Voltage or CPU/NB Voltage. Sometimes a combination of the two." i doubt its a lack of dram voltage bc my memory's website it says its been tested at 1866mhz @ 1.5v or am i wrong in my assumption, i had my CPU/NB Voltage set to 1.25v as the guide stated to be between 1.25-1.3v, so i increased it a point to 1.256v and retesting custom 75% of ram to see if that works, I'm shooting for 6-8hours, so if i fail again do i continue to increase the CPU/NB Voltage until it works but don't go over 1.3V, and if so what should i do if that doesn't work


----------



## The Sandman

Dram voltage spec listed on Ram is rated for Intel which requires less voltage by nature.
In the AMD platform it's not uncommon to need an additional .05v to .1v just for stock settings.
All DDR3 is made to survive up to 1.9v before failure.

Question, if you're currently running 1333MHz stable at 1.5v does it not make sense that 1600MHz may require slightly higher voltage?
If Dram stability is in doubt HCI MemTest set up to run 8 instances with an equal load divided between 8 cores (16GB usable/8)

Make sure you've manually entered *ALL* the Dram specs into Bios.

Please consider adding your rig sig http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig as it gets to be a PITA searching back to your post that has this info








We also have no idea what Ram kit you run.









You might consider posting a few snips showing HWInfo64 with usable values showing (not 8x CPU usage at 100%) with a test running like this (click "Original" in lower right hand corner to view full screen)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This may let us notice something you've over looked. Notice all voltages, freqs and temps are relabeled to make it easier for you to follow. Takes a little time but well worth the effort.

I'll post this again from the AMD Tuning Guide


----------



## jdese001

yea i know i keep meaning to do the rig sig, ill do that, so far I'm almost 2hrs into a custom blend using 75% of my ram, and i put my memory frequency to its stated 1866mhz, well i set the dram voltage to 1.5v as the guide stated to do but i kept memory frequency to auto, just something i overlooked. but i set the memory to 1866mhz and i set the timings to the specs g.skill stated for that mhz, so far no issues.

i don't have HWInfo64, is downloading an application during a test and installing ok to do? i do have hwmonitor


----------



## FlailScHLAMP

hwinfo 64 > hwmonitor every day of the week.

much less bugs on this platform, and a developer that hangs out here on occasion to take care of dedicated bugs


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdese001*
> 
> is downloading an application during a test and installing ok to do?


It's best to let Prime95 (by design) run uninterrupted and all by itself. Do the DLing and install afterward.


----------



## bonami2

Uh

I would says to everyone with those ASUS MOBO

To get an infrared thermometer and check those vrm on the back...

My m5a99fx pro reacher 117celsius with an infrared thermometer with less than 1.5v and a fx 6300 on prime 95

My Giga ud3p 970a Is ways better... Im pushing 1.55volt on a fx 8300 with just a fan at minimum speed on the vrm and im not reaching over 90c on small ftt. (( everything is heatsinked ))

The asus got a ways better bios... The giga is kinda 10 years behind

Edit: wth did i write.. Must have being a copy paste error again uh


----------



## TripJaxon

New Here, but have been reading, and following all the posts regarding OCing the 8320. I know MY mobo isn't exactly the best for it, I've gone up to 4.5 ghz on mine, but I freeze up during p95 tests, and occt I just get rounding errors. I've never even been able to get through the test to see my max heat. I've read through all the post, and tried all the things everyone has advised. At this point, I'm just totally confused. All the info to my set up is in my sig, if that's a help, anything else I can take shots of.


----------



## miklkit

Hi!

This is still a good guide so please do study it well. About your specs. Cooling? Stock cooling? Air? CLC? Custom water loop?

For testing and monitoring most use IBT AVX found here. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202

It is fast and easy to use.

For monitoring the most reliable program is HWINFO64. It is free.


----------



## TripJaxon

Oh, right. I'm on all air, got a big Gammaxx400 sitting ontop of my cpu with pushpull fans attached to it, The error I always get is "rounding is 5 expected less than 4. I'm pretty sure it's something to do with my voltages, I seem to get some serious droops, I've got cpu set to like 1.4, but it only dances around that voltage for a minute, or so...then just as I start my p95 test, it drops to 1.392, or a bit less. I know mu mobo sucks for OC, but I figured since it's not the LE version I could get some juice outta it, I do plan on building a new rig, but I want to do all my trial and error work on this pc, so if I really mess anything up, it's not as bad as a brand new system. Hwinfo shots are enclosed. I've also got a fan blowing inside the case directly on the vrm to keep the temps somewhat undercontrol.After some rather intense searching on this forum, I've pretty much found my answer, as I'\m fully stable on every stress test at 4.3ghz and my temps never hit 60cspu or 60c on socket, I'll just stick to that until I build the new pc. this is the post I'm referencing:http://www.overclock.net/t/1579793/amd-fx-8350-vcore-without-llc-question-m5a97-r2-0-mobo


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## lesp4ul

Hi, sorry to bring up an old thread. But i just got my FX8350 for cheap to replace my 965BE. The problem is i cannot OC it at all, with 965 i can get 3.9GHz @1.4v stable on air. my system :

- FX8350
- ASROCK 890GX Extreme4 R2.0 BIOS 1.50A
- Gskill 16GB DDR3 1600Mhz
- Coolermaster Hyper 212+
- Thermaltake 700w PSU

First i disabled Cool&Quiet, SVM, C6, Turbo etc. then tested 200x22 stock voltage, won't boot at all, so i increased the voltage to 1.45 ~ 1.48, still not helping. Adjusted NB 1.25v still the same. Then i tried 220 FSB x 20, 1.48, NB/HT 24xx something, won't boot also. After some frustrating attempts, i tried cpu oc mode to only 5%, and it also won't boot. dr debug shown number 46 with all manual oc. So what's wrong? is my motherboard don't support 8350 oc?


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lesp4ul*
> 
> Hi, sorry to bring up an old thread. But i just got my FX8350 for cheap to replace my 965BE. The problem is i cannot OC it at all, with 965 i can get 3.9GHz @1.4v stable on air. my system :
> 
> - FX8350
> - ASROCK 890GX Extreme4 R2.0 BIOS 1.50A
> - Gskill 16GB DDR3 1600Mhz
> - Coolermaster Hyper 212+
> - Thermaltake 700w PSU
> 
> First i disabled Cool&Quiet, SVM, C6, Turbo etc. then tested 200x22 stock voltage, won't boot at all, so i increased the voltage to 1.45 ~ 1.48, still not helping. Adjusted NB 1.25v still the same. Then i tried 220 FSB x 20, 1.48, NB/HT 24xx something, won't boot also. After some frustrating attempts, i tried cpu oc mode to only 5%, and it also won't boot. dr debug shown number 46 with all manual oc. So what's wrong? is my motherboard don't support 8350 oc?


Assrock say its supported but its on a old chipset....AMD says the only cpu comaptability are AMD Athlon™, AMD Athlon™ II, AMD Phenom™, AMD Phenom™ II
id buy a new board


----------



## TripJaxon

Yah,id say the same thing. That board is wicked old. I'm pretty sure you'll need either a 970 board,and if you plan to do any type of oc with your chip 990 board is a must.let us know how you do once you get the new board. And good luck!


----------



## trivium nate

subd!!!


----------



## mattliston

ASUS calls the CPU PLL VDDA, which is 2.5 volts stock

you must be looking at VDDC, which is 1.2 volts by default.

Leave VDDC alone.

you can choose to drop VDDA voltage from 2.5 volts to 2.4 and test it out. if you see any thermal changes, you can try lowering it down to 2.35, and retest. I personally would not recommend anything lower than 2.25 volts, as on my crosshair V Formula-Z it caused weird v-core behavior.

I actually have my VDDA set to 2.6 currentlly, and I have nearly flat vcore voltage whether idling or loaded up.

I would avoid ULTRA HIGH LLC if you dont need it. bumping up the VRM frequency from stock 300 to 350 or 400 will very slightly increase VRM temps, but smooth out voltage spikes.

SPIKES are what hurts things for stability, as recovery time is not always there.


----------



## Mega Man

? Random


----------



## TotemTed

Trying out numerous methods for my overclock it seems my 3 year old fx6300 refuses to go over 4.5 anymore. Especially when using only multi and volts.

So I figured i'd monkey around with the FSB, using the recommended settings on the first page.
Quote:


> FSB - 280
> DRAM - 1866Mhz
> CPU/NB - 2520Mhz
> HTT - 2520Mhz


My performance has actually increased in the games I play even with a currently lower core clock just under 4.5.
my ram speed is also much slower at 1866 instead of 2000.

My question at this point is, should i push the FSB higher? Will it even make a difference?
or should I focus on tightening ram timings? Currently just under stock clocks.


----------



## umeng2002

Do you need to use FSB OC?


----------



## Mega Man

No you don't


----------



## songokuyy

Hello.

I m new here so forgive me if i do any mistakes!

So i managed to make a stable fsb OC on my fx8320 with msi 970 gaming mobo.

apart from sharing my info i would also want some help rising my speed a little more.

what i changed from the bios is the *bus to 240*, cpu voltage to 1.4v, cpu/nb voltage to 1.38(had it 1.4 but reduced it untill p95 failed) , dram voltage to 1.51 and NB voltage to 1.2

fsb freq and ht link is set on auto on bios and shows 2400mhz for both ( on bios) but on cpu z shos diference as u can see.

i tried rising the ratio along with some cpu voltage and 1-2 core fails on prime95, cant go past 4200 mhz some help here







? just want to reach 4500!!!

a.JPG 43k .JPG file


Capture.JPG 59k .JPG file


edit*ps*
personally it hink fsb OC on amd is far better than cpu ratio OC BECAUSE fsb oc gives way more benefit to the ram, i get way better results on benchmarks.
at first i had 4.200 mhz with cpu ratio oc and manually set the dram freq to 1600 BUT the fsb freq remained 2200, when it should ve been at least 2400 since it should be x3 the dram speed.
with fsb oc i got more stable ram and seen huuuge diference in games (more fps and no more stutters while gaming) and that was caused due to the shi****ty memory controller of the fx processors. in sort words what i mean is to TRULLY reach 1600 mhz dram frequency you have to OVERCLOCK your Bus frequency. i mean its like trying to run with 300 km/h with a bike on a 1.5meters narrowed road.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> I m new here so forgive me if i do any mistakes!
> 
> So i managed to make a stable fsb OC on my fx8320 with msi 970 gaming mobo.
> 
> apart from sharing my info i would also want some help rising my speed a little more.
> 
> what i changed from the bios is the *bus to 240*, cpu voltage to 1.4v, cpu/nb voltage to 1.38(had it 1.4 but reduced it untill p95 failed) , dram voltage to 1.51 and NB voltage to 1.2
> 
> fsb freq and ht link is set on auto on bios and shows 2400mhz for both ( on bios) but on cpu z shos diference as u can see.
> i tried rising the ratio along with some cpu voltage and 1-2 core fails on prime95, cant go past 4200 mhz some help here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ? just want to reach 4500!!!
> Thanks in advance!


Welcome to OCN!

The fewer items left on "auto" the better.
It's always best to manually enter as many values as you know, and for those you don't know start with what is shown when on "auto". This will lock down the Bios and prevent any unknown changes due to being left on auto.

The 2879MHz HT freq could very easily be the problem.
Lock down that Bios with something less for HT freq and retry









The HT OC is totally chip dependent. Some do real well with an HT OC (my 8350 did) while others/many don't do as well.
You'll have to test both methods (HT vs Multi) to see which gives the highest clock, and at what voltage etc.

What is your cooling solution etc? There has been no mention of temps.
You may want to give this a read as it'll help those trying to help you http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig

Personally I wouldn't recommend a HT (FSB) OC till you know your chips max stable clock speed and voltage. This gives you a base to work from.
Take this info than start a HT OC but keep a close eye on HT, Dram, and CPU/NB freqs and don't try raising all at the same time. Doing this makes it very hard to know which is causing the instability and you'll be chasing your tail for days. HT OCing is done in stages (one area at a time) and than combined later on as you go.

Most here stress test using IBT AVX version (for AMD) found here in the early stages on an OC http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
DL HWInfo64 and try a 10 ru8n pass set to Very High and post a snip like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This usually saves a little time before the Prime95 runs.


----------



## songokuyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> The fewer items left on "auto" the better.
> It's always best to manually enter as many values as you know, and for those you don't know start with what is shown when on "auto". This will lock down the Bios and prevent any unknown changes due to being left on auto.
> 
> The 2879MHz HT freq could very easily be the problem.
> Lock down that Bios with something less for HT freq and retry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The HT OC is totally chip dependent. Some do real well with an HT OC (my 8350 did) while others/many don't do as well.
> You'll have to test both methods (HT vs Multi) to see which gives the highest clock, and at what voltage etc.
> 
> What is your cooling solution etc? There has been no mention of temps.
> You may want to give this a read as it'll help those trying to help you http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> 
> Personally I wouldn't recommend a HT (FSB) OC till you know your chips max stable clock speed and voltage. This gives you a base to work from.
> Take this info than start a HT OC but keep a close eye on HT, Dram, and CPU/NB freqs and don't try raising all at the same time. Doing this makes it very hard to know which is causing the instability and you'll be chasing your tail for days. HT OCing is done in stages (one area at a time) and than combined later on as you go.
> 
> Most here stress test using IBT AVX version (for AMD) found here in the early stages on an OC http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> DL HWInfo64 and try a 10 ru8n pass set to Very High and post a snip like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This usually saves a little time before the Prime95 runs.


Hello and thank you for your reply!!

HT freq was set on auto when showed 2880 mhz and i followed ur advice and changed it to 2640 and then 2400 and tried some benchmarks again( mostly for the ram) and while i DIDNT had any instability issues with this overclock it gave me 10% performance boost for my ram which is what i believe the fx chips really need.

the oc i was using before was a CPu ratio oc (all set on auto/default values)using Oc Genie of the mobo to go 4ghz, the voltage i think was 1,46 ratio x20 cpu/nb voltage 1.23 and temps that peaked 65 + and 70+ when runnings p95.Also tried the multi at 21x without seen much difference except for higher temps
Now with My current oc when running p95 Temps wont go higher than 63 C on a heated air conditioned room.I believe the PC was way more unstable with the oc genie oc than with mine and i can see the difference in GTA V online mostly. i had stuttering and some fps drops and my guess was the ram speed or rather how much speed can the CPU NB transfer to the ram.

i dont think i wanna start from start to reach higher speeds, i m happy like this but wanna try go 4500 without too much effort ><. i can go 1.55 voltage easily! but p95 fails anything above 4200.

my cooling solution is coolermaster hyper 612 v.2 which is fairly huge xD, i also installed custom fans for northbridge etc..

do i really need to run other stresstest except p95?

edit* IBT failed after 3d result >_>

asd.JPG 215k .JPG file


edit* started again from scratch to find the max clock on stock voltage!
do i still need to run both p95 and ibt? or IBT is enough?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> do i really need to run other stresstest except p95?
> 
> edit* IBT failed after 3d result >_>
> 
> edit* started again from scratch to find the max clock on stock voltage!
> do i still need to run both p95 and ibt? or IBT is enough?


Stability depends on what you want/need from your system.
If you value your data and don't want to deal with Windows corruption etc than your system should pass any stress test you throw at it.
There is no "One" stress test to assure complete stability. It takes a few different tests to cover all the bases.

Prime 95 Blend for a 24 hr run is my last test. But this comes after I pass IBT AVX as mentioned above (and a few others). IBT will find the "easier to find" instability quicker than P95. Down side is it's not as thorough as P95. It will save you some time in the early stages.

If *ALL* you do is game there are many here that go with a simple 20 run pass set to Maximum on IBT AVX and call it a day. This is what is known as "Gaming Stable".
For me if it can't run a 24 hr run of P95 I won't use it on my everyday OS. I've lost stuff due to corruption when I first got into OCing and life really sucked for a while.
It takes a lot of time and might not be for everybody but an _optimized system OC_ that does run P95 is just so smooth and trouble free you just can't put it into words.

Just noticed you have the HT and CPU/NB freqs reversed. Why?
26xx NB freq isn't always an easy one to tame. Set HT to 26xx and try CPU/NB at 24xxMHz this may save you a few degrees and a little less CPU/NB voltage.

I always shoot a easy to stabilize clock first. This gives me something stable to work from. When I get tired of OCing I than revert back to stable settings till I feel like pushing further.
It's also very helpful to keep good notes with the changes made, and a time to failure. After a short while you can start to see patterns develop as in if your settings are actually helping or not.

As far as coolers go, yours might be big, but this is huge http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-608-045&utm_source=Bluecore&utm_medium=BehEmail&utm_campaign=Post_Browsed&cm_mmc=EMCPB-112016-_-PB-_-Bluecore-_-Content&obem=hUxyW-h9Z3AIS0wk2dNEH3jM8GV0vKnXJcmNkUiCJ5k%3D


----------



## songokuyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Stability depends on what you want/need from your system.
> If you value your data and don't want to deal with Windows corruption etc than your system should pass any stress test you throw at it.
> There is no "One" stress test to assure complete stability. It takes a few different tests to cover all the bases.
> 
> Prime 95 Blend for a 24 hr run is my last test. But this comes after I pass IBT AVX as mentioned above (and a few others). IBT will find the "easier to find" instability quicker than P95. Down side is it's not as thorough as P95. It will save you some time in the early stages.
> 
> If *ALL* you do is game there are many here that go with a simple 20 run pass set to Maximum on IBT AVX and call it a day. This is what is known as "Gaming Stable".
> For me if it can't run a 24 hr run of P95 I won't use it on my everyday OS. I've lost stuff due to corruption when I first got into OCing and life really sucked for a while.
> It takes a lot of time and might not be for everybody but an _optimized system OC_ that does run P95 is just so smooth and trouble free you just can't put it into words.
> 
> Just noticed you have the HT and CPU/NB freqs reversed. Why?
> 26xx NB freq isn't always an easy one to tame. Set HT to 26xx and try CPU/NB at 24xxMHz this may save you a few degrees and a little less CPU/NB voltage.
> 
> I always shoot a easy to stabilize clock first. This gives me something stable to work from. When I get tired of OCing I than revert back to stable settings till I feel like pushing further.
> It's also very helpful to keep good notes with the changes made, and a time to failure. After a short while you can start to see patterns develop as in if your settings are actually helping or not.
> 
> As far as coolers go, yours might be big, but this is huge http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-608-045&utm_source=Bluecore&utm_medium=BehEmail&utm_campaign=Post_Browsed&cm_mmc=EMCPB-112016-_-PB-_-Bluecore-_-Content&obem=hUxyW-h9Z3AIS0wk2dNEH3jM8GV0vKnXJcmNkUiCJ5k%3D


Thanks again for your awesome reply!

for some reasons when i set the cpu/nb speed to lower value it doesnt seem to change, i mean i see the change in the bios but on hwinfo or other monitoring programs still says 2640.
also on bios it says that the cpu/nb freq must me equal or higher from the ht link freq. >_>
aside from that is it possible to give me on sort words the step by step configuration for fsb oc? i mean when i rise the bus speed the only voltages i need to tweak is the cpu voltage and cpu/nb voltage? what about the Nb voltage? and the dram voltage?
the dram is rated for 1600 1.5v 9 9 9 24.
ram timings is manualy set the above timings at 1600 speed.

ps* mostly i need a gaming oc, 2-3 hours per day gaming.
and yeah that cooler is huge, btw i also use double fans on my cooler!
Thanks again in advance and pardon my noobness!


----------



## miklkit

OT: That isn't huge. This is huge.


----------



## mthlay92

I want to upgrade my cpu. Right now Newegg has a sale on the 8300(114.99 USD). I honestly cant afford switching to AM4 or any Intel. My question is should I go with a new 8300 for $115 or should I buy a used 8350 for $100. I have a aftermarket cooler and ample air cooling. Any input is appreciated.


----------



## songokuyy

well here is my pc

IMG_0381.JPG 1248k .JPG file

i think both are huge >_> the cooler didnt fit inside the case so i made a custom made open case xD

BR

edit* can some1 tell me the maximum safe voltages i can try for my cpu? cpu coltage - cpu/nb voltage-and NB votlage

i m currently 1.45 voltage on cpu/nb is that ok?
thanks in advance


----------



## miklkit

@mthlay92 Unless you know the history of that 8350 for sure and know it has not been abused it is better to get the new 8300 with a warranty. I KNOW my CPUs have been abused.

Well air flow isn't a problem.









Safe voltages? Hmm.

CPU - 1.55 volts max at 62C or less.

CPU/NB - I'm running 1.25 v but I have run everything from 1.2v to 1.42v, all stable.

NB - It seems like it should stay around 1.1-1.2v.


----------



## songokuyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> @mthlay92 Unless you know the history of that 8350 for sure and know it has not been abused it is better to get the new 8300 with a warranty. I KNOW my CPUs have been abused.
> 
> Well air flow isn't a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Safe voltages? Hmm.
> 
> CPU - 1.55 volts max at 62C or less.
> 
> CPU/NB - I'm running 1.25 v but I have run everything from 1.2v to 1.42v, all stable.
> 
> NB - It seems like it should stay around 1.1-1.2v.


Thanks for your reply,

i bumped the nb voltage to 1.4 and run IBT again and failed at 8th pass


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> can some1 tell me the maximum safe voltages i can try for my cpu? cpu coltage - cpu/nb voltage-and NB votlage
> 
> i m currently 1.45 voltage on cpu/nb is that ok?
> thanks in advance


From AMD



Source http://www.amd.com/Documents/AMD_FX_Performance_Tuning_Guide.pdf#search=FX%2520%2520performance%2520tuning%2520guide

Actual NB voltage (not CPU/NB) 1.3 to 1.35v (usually this isn't ness) but I do know of some that ran 1.4+v.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mthlay92*
> 
> I want to upgrade my cpu. Right now Newegg has a sale on the 8300(114.99 USD). I honestly cant afford switching to AM4 or any Intel. My question is should I go with a new 8300 for $115 or should I buy a used 8350 for $100. I have a aftermarket cooler and ample air cooling. Any input is appreciated.


I am sorry but I am on mobile, what cpu do you have, if I was on pc I could see your rig in rigbuilder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> well here is my pc
> 
> IMG_0381.JPG 1248k .JPG file
> 
> i think both are huge >_> the cooler didnt fit inside the case so i made a custom made open case xD
> 
> BR
> 
> edit* can some1 tell me the maximum safe voltages i can try for my cpu? cpu coltage - cpu/nb voltage-and NB votlage
> 
> i m currently 1.45 voltage on cpu/nb is that ok?
> thanks in advance


Just a fyi don't use the paperclip, use the little picture of a picture, iirc directly to the right of the paperclip.

It helps us help you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> @mthlay92 Unless you know the history of that 8350 for sure and know it has not been abused it is better to get the new 8300 with a warranty. I KNOW my CPUs have been abused.
> 
> Well air flow isn't a problem.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Safe voltages? Hmm.
> 
> CPU - 1.55 volts max at 62C or less.
> 
> CPU/NB - I'm running 1.25 v but I have run everything from 1.2v to 1.42v, all stable.
> 
> NB - It seems like it should stay around 1.1-1.2v.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your reply,
> 
> i bumped the nb voltage to 1.4 and run IBT again and failed at 8th pass
Click to expand...

NB or cpu/nb either way sounds to me like too much voltage. Unless you are really pushing your imc 1.2-1.25 is usually plenty


----------



## songokuyy

Progress so far... i want to reach 250 bus ratio, and btw why even though i select nb frequency to a lower value in the bios it wont seem to change>_> any clues?

edit*i stopped the test at 10.


----------



## rokan

hey guys Im new here and I just updated my (old) pc to get some more fps in cs go









I bought the FX 8320 and so far just used AMD overdrive to get it up to 4ghz with decent results, since cs go just seems to depend on how much ghz one core has so to speak.
fps are way better than before but I think there is a lot of potential especially because I got the Alpenfön BROCKEN cooler which seems to be really good.

the thing is: I only got the ASUS M5A87 motherboard which I reckon is not that good for oc (?). so my question is: how can I oc my cpu with this motherboard since the guide from the first page is for another one.

any experiences with that combination?
any help would be appreciated!


----------



## miklkit

Hi!

According to this thread you have a 4+1 vrm motherboard with no heat sinks. http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboard-vrm-information-list

What this means is that it is a weak board that will overheat very quickly. The VRMs are between the cpu socket and the I/O panel with its usb ports. Placing a fan so it blows directly on them will help cool them so you can get a higher OC.

The bios for your board should be similar so that in general that guide should work well for you.


----------



## rokan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> According to this thread you have a 4+1 vrm motherboard with no heat sinks. http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboard-vrm-information-list
> 
> What this means is that it is a weak board that will overheat very quickly. The VRMs are between the cpu socket and the I/O panel with its usb ports. Placing a fan so it blows directly on them will help cool them so you can get a higher OC.
> 
> The bios for your board should be similar so that in general that guide should work well for you.


Thx for your answer! Can't I try to oc it anyways? I mean do I roast the mobo or will there be instability first? And: how would I put a fan in there which will blow on that part and where would I connect it to? Ty!


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mthlay92*
> 
> I want to upgrade my cpu. Right now Newegg has a sale on the 8300(114.99 USD). I honestly cant afford switching to AM4 or any Intel. My question is should I go with a new 8300 for $115 or should I buy a used 8350 for $100. I have a aftermarket cooler and ample air cooling. Any input is appreciated.


I am s
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> 
> 
> Progress so far... i want to reach 250 bus ratio, and btw why even though i select nb frequency to a lower value in the bios it wont seem to change>_> any clues?
> 
> edit*i stopped the test at 10.


do you have a gigabyte board ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rokan*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> According to this thread you have a 4+1 vrm motherboard with no heat sinks. http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboard-vrm-information-list
> 
> What this means is that it is a weak board that will overheat very quickly. The VRMs are between the cpu socket and the I/O panel with its usb ports. Placing a fan so it blows directly on them will help cool them so you can get a higher OC.
> 
> The bios for your board should be similar so that in general that guide should work well for you.
> 
> 
> 
> Thx for your answer! Can't I try to oc it anyways? I mean do I roast the mobo or will there be instability first? And: how would I put a fan in there which will blow on that part and where would I connect it to? Ty!
Click to expand...

yes unfortunately i would not recommend using that mobo to OC sorry :/


----------



## Harzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
> DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
> CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks)
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Current Capability 130%
> Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
> C1E - Disabled
> SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled
> 
> ****The power saving features should be disabled until you find your stable overclock. Then feel free to re-enable them to benefit from power savings*


it's said that HT Link Speed 2600 Mhz.
I use Asus M5A97 R2.0 with FX-6300, and the HT Link Speed tops at 2400 Mhz.
So, is it ok if the HT Link Speed I set at 2400 and the others I followed as above?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harzon*
> 
> it's said that HT Link Speed 2600 Mhz.
> I use Asus M5A97 R2.0 with FX-6300, and the HT Link Speed tops at 2400 Mhz.
> So, is it ok if the HT Link Speed I set at 2400 and the others I followed as above?


Yes that would be okay.

And welcome to OCN!


----------



## Harzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Yes that would be okay.
> 
> And welcome to OCN!


thank you man...

may our framerates be high, and our temperature low.


----------



## songokuyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> I am s
> do you have a gigabyte board ?
> yes unfortunately i would not recommend using that mobo to OC sorry :/


No msi 970 gaming mobo


ok here are my last stable settings surviving 10 pass very high IBT and 1 hour small fft on P95, previous 233 bus speed screenshot i posted failed on p95.
but i still think i cant get passed 4300, is it maybe my cpus max capability or something?
also can ram timings fail p95 or IBT?

what step u people suggest me to go next xD? i m thinking of boosting some cpu clock ratio now, will i need to increase the NB voltage ? its just my thinking but the nb voltage should be on the same voltage as the cpu nb or no? isnt the NB feeds the cpu/NB ?

Thank in advance!

edit*survived x20 at maximun on IBT


----------



## Harzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Yes that would be okay.
> 
> Ai Overclock Tuner - Manual
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - Disabled
> DRAM 1600Mhz @ 1.5v
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2200Mhz
> HT Link Speed - 2600Mhz
> CPU & NB Voltage - Manual Mode
> CPU/NB Manual Voltage - Set between 1.25v-1.3v (Increases stability for high overclocks)
> CPU LLC - Ultra High (75%)
> CPU/NB LLC - Auto
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Current Capability 130%
> Cool'n'Quiet - Disabled
> C1E - Disabled
> SVM - Disabled unless running Virtual Machines
> Core C6 State - Disabled
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
> Amp Master Mode - Disabled
> 
> ****The power saving features should be disabled until you find your stable overclock. Then feel free to re-enable them to benefit from power savings*


in another guide I see the ai overclock tuner set to DOCP.
what's the difference with manual?


----------



## rokan

Ok
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> yes unfortunately i would not recommend using that mobo to OC sorry :/










ok then... that sucks..


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> ok here are my last stable settings surviving 10 pass very high IBT and 1 hour small fft on P95, previous 233 bus speed screenshot i posted failed on p95.
> but i still think i cant get passed 4300, is it maybe my cpus max capability or something?
> also can ram timings fail p95 or IBT?
> 
> what step u people suggest me to go next xD? i m thinking of boosting some cpu clock ratio now, will i need to increase the NB voltage ? its just my thinking but the nb voltage should be on the same voltage as the cpu nb or no? isnt the NB feeds the cpu/NB ?


Post a snip of Prime95 Blend failure. Depending on the error/s this may help point us in the right direction.
Dram specs should all be manually entered. Dram voltage and CPU/NB voltage can/will become a balancing act at some point requiring only small changes followed by more testing. Yes these can be a PITA when first learning your setup. As you raise the clock you may find a need for additional voltage to offset the increased through put in these areas.

The actual NB voltage is used to help stabilize the Ref Clock. If you see big swings in Bus Clock freq (in HWInfo) this may be a sign you might need a small adjustment. Usually not required till closer to 250MHz Ref Clock on an Asus mobo. Yours may be a little different. Actual NB voltage has nothing to do with CPU/NB.

When I first OC a new chip I shoot to stabilize (12-24 hr Prime95 Blend) at turbo speed. This gives me something STABLE to work from.
Than when I raise the clock and instability comes around it's much easier to figure which area is causing the instability.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Harzon*
> 
> in another guide I see the ai overclock tuner set to DOCP.
> what's the difference with manual?


DOCP uses the XMP settings (used by Intel) and translates them to optimal settings for AMD for you. Personally I only recommend DOCP for those that have Dram issues (as in not working).
I prefer to not have Bios to convert this for me and always manually enter specs written on the sticker on the Dram itself. You can test memory with HCI Memtest http://hcidesign.com/memtest/download.html
Use available memory divided by the number of CPU cores and setup 8 (if you're running an 8xxx) instances running equal amounts of memory.

For both of you remember,
HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
You may want to try with this disabled.
I would also recommend entering a value rather than Auto for CPU/NB LLC.


----------



## songokuyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Post a snip of Prime95 Blend failure. Depending on the error/s this may help point us in the right direction.
> Dram specs should all be manually entered. Dram voltage and CPU/NB voltage can/will become a balancing act at some point requiring only small changes followed by more testing. Yes these can be a PITA when first learning your setup. As you raise the clock you may find a need for additional voltage to offset the increased through put in these areas.
> 
> The actual NB voltage is used to help stabilize the Ref Clock. If you see big swings in Bus Clock freq (in HWInfo) this may be a sign you might need a small adjustment. Usually not required till closer to 250MHz Ref Clock on an Asus mobo. Yours may be a little different. Actual NB voltage has nothing to do with CPU/NB.
> 
> When I first OC a new chip I shoot to stabilize (12-24 hr Prime95 Blend) at turbo speed. This gives me something STABLE to work from.
> Than when I raise the clock and instability comes around it's much easier to figure which area is causing the instability.
> DOCP uses the XMP settings (used by Intel) and translates them to optimal settings for AMD for you. Personally I only recommend DOCP for those that have Dram issues (as in not working).
> I prefer to not have Bios to convert this for me and always manually enter specs written on the sticker on the Dram itself. You can test memory with HCI Memtest http://hcidesign.com/memtest/download.html
> Use available memory divided by the number of CPU cores and setup 8 (if you're running an 8xxx) instances running equal amounts of memory.
> 
> For both of you remember,
> HPC Mode - Enabled (Some motherboards this has caused freezing so keep that in mind)
> You may want to try with this disabled.
> I would also recommend entering a value rather than Auto for CPU/NB LLC.


Thanks for your reply,

here ur snip

also whats pita and docp?
on my mobo cant change ref clock and can u sort of explain me what is it in sort words?
about my ram timings question i meant if they can be the cause to fail IBT or P95 jsut a simple yes or no answer is what i need!! xD

edit*i always have enabled hpc mode and didnt have any freezes by it ,
and as always thanks again in advance!!!


----------



## Ghostman1911

Hey everyone!

So after 3 years following all posts here and using my fx 8350 oced to 4.9 ghz i think its time to let it rest....

3 years of pure overclock, almost 100% of time with 68C (brazil here, tropical cilmate), and 24/7 of time rendering 3d images and on weekends playing some games.

Last month i had to disable all overclock on my pc, and now using a h100i and 8350 all stock frequency i got 62C while playing games and 75C rendering.

Thermal paste changed, all clean and cool, but im assuming that its time has came.

But i can say with all my forces that the 8350 was the best processor i had, very powerful









R.I.P Fx 8350, you did to me an extreme great job!


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostman1911*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> 
> So after 3 years following all posts here and using my fx 8350 oced to 4.9 ghz i think its time to let it rest....
> 
> 3 years of pure overclock, almost 100% of time with 68C (brazil here, tropical cilmate), and 24/7 of time rendering 3d images and on weekends playing some games.
> 
> Last month i had to disable all overclock on my pc, and now using a h100i and 8350 all stock frequency i got 62C while playing games and 75C rendering.
> 
> Thermal paste changed, all clean and cool, but im assuming that its time has came.
> 
> But i can say with all my forces that the 8350 was the best processor i had, very powerful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> R.I.P Fx 8350, you did to me an extreme great job!


I don't think it's the CPU dying. Maybe it's the motherboard that is getting hotter. When a CPU degrades, it needs more voltage for the same clock. Never heard that they simply get hotter...

I would suspect more your cooler and motherboard, than the CPU.


----------



## Ghostman1911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Undervolter*
> 
> I don't think it's the CPU dying. Maybe it's the motherboard that is getting hotter. When a CPU degrades, it needs more voltage for the same clock. Never heard that they simply get hotter...
> 
> I would suspect more your cooler and motherboard, than the CPU.


I though about mobo too, but i have 3 fans on it, and looking at the temps they are always the same, my h100i i bout 6 months ago, i used to have a h100.
Sometimes my pc just freeze and i have to restart it, if is not the cpu i dont know what can be.


----------



## songokuyy

so mr sandman.

The bus clock on the picture is behaving like this due to low voltage on NB voltage? its set on 1.25V.

also can you reply to my previous post.

Thanks.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> here ur snip
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also whats pita and docp?
> on my mobo cant change ref clock and can u sort of explain me what is it in sort words?


Snip above,
I would be looking at increasing Dram voltage (in small steps). Keep track of the time it takes to fail test. If after 3 or 4 attempts you don't start to see an improvement in failure time, return to where you started but add only 2 bumps of voltage. Good notes are important!

Next try raising the CPU/NB voltage the same way (2 to 3 bumps at a time) and test/repeat same as above, keep track of failure time etc. You may find it requires a combination of the two so be patient and remember small increases and retest. It's not hard to simply over volt one area with Vishera and not even realize it (especially when first starting out







.) Over volting can affect an OC the same way as under volting so keep this in mind.

DOCP is covered in post #3859 and PITA means pain in the behind









Ref Clock = Base Clock = Bus Clock etc, depends who's Bios or what program you're looking at as it gets called by similar names. And on this topic what do you mean you can't change your Ref Clock? Default is 200MHz and you're running 230MHz







. It's labeled "Bus Clock" in HWinfo. My guess is MSI calls it something other than Ref Clock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> so mr sandman.
> 
> The bus clock on the picture is behaving like this due to low voltage on NB voltage? its set on 1.25V.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.


Not necessarily low NB voltage. Read that post carefully. More of something to watch for (floating ref clock value), not that you currently have this.
What I see in your snip for "Bus Clock" (same as Ref Clock) appears normal with a low and hi spike. What I was more referring to would only be seen WHILE you're running the test.

You may, or may not need additional NB voltage. Usually (on an Asus) "Auto" for NB voltage is usually fine till close to 250MHz. The MSI may act differently so also consider retesting this voltage increase as well. Perhaps it's needs more (I doubt it) but only one way to find out. Again, watching the test failure times tells you an awful lot! If it takes longer to fail the test, it's probably a good move right?

Didn't you fill out your Rig Builder yet? http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig it really does help us help you.


----------



## songokuyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Snip above,
> I would be looking at increasing Dram voltage (in small steps). Keep track of the time it takes to fail test. If after 3 or 4 attempts you don't start to see an improvement in failure time, return to where you started but add only 2 bumps of voltage. Good notes are important!
> 
> Next try raising the CPU/NB voltage the same way (2 to 3 bumps at a time) and test/repeat same as above, keep track of failure time etc. You may find it requires a combination of the two so be patient and remember small increases and retest. It's not hard to simply over volt one area with Vishera and not even realize it (especially when first starting out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .) Over volting can affect an OC the same way as under volting so keep this in mind.
> 
> DOCP is covered in post #3859 and PITA means pain in the behind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ref Clock = Base Clock = Bus Clock etc, depends who's Bios or what program you're looking at as it gets called by similar names. And on this topic what do you mean you can't change your Ref Clock? Default is 200MHz and you're running 230MHz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It's labeled "Bus Clock" in HWinfo. My guess is MSI calls it something other than Ref Clock.
> Not necessarily low NB voltage. Read that post carefully. More of something to watch for (floating ref clock value), not that you currently have this.
> What I see in your snip for "Bus Clock" (same as Ref Clock) appears normal with a low and hi spike. What I was more referring to would only be seen WHILE you're running the test.
> 
> You may, or may not need additional NB voltage. Usually (on an Asus) "Auto" for NB voltage is usually fine till close to 250MHz. The MSI may act differently so also consider retesting this voltage increase as well. Perhaps it's needs more (I doubt it) but only one way to find out. Again, watching the test failure times tells you an awful lot! If it takes longer to fail the test, it's probably a good move right?
> 
> Didn't you fill out your Rig Builder yet? http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig it really does help us help you.


Thanks for you reply!

The rig builder should be ready since yesterday







,

if i understood correctly then, Msi don't have a docp settings on bios but anyways i usually enter the timings manually based on the rams sticker (9-9-9-24 @1600 @ 1.5) but since the ram now is overclocked i changed it to auto and then tried to tighten a little bit the timings and resulted to 10-11-11-41( should i change it back to 9-9-9-24 with more voltage?) Already had the memtest







not tested this oc yet though
Also there is a bios feature that gives me the complete list of my ram timings.

About bus clock i thought ref clock and bus clock were 2 different things >_> amd overdrive has the ref clock option grayed out and didn't let me adjust it so i assumed it was something different than the bus clock









Well i just bumped the nb to 1.25 just to see what happens xD not that i knew what i was doing !
originally what i wanted is to hit around 250 bus clock.
after i hit 231 i tried to rise the clock ratio instead , if i go the clock ratio way from now will i still need to rise dram voltage"?
Also 1 more question, if the bus clock is 240 then the dram freq from 1333 becomes 1599, i assume the timings and voltage needed for this is as saying on the sticker 9-9-9-24 and 1.5? right?
The msi mobo is supposed to be pretty good for overclocking, it even have slow mode (for cold bug).

ps* pita in greek means pie or scone and i was like >_>

Thanks in advance and best regards!

gonna test some more and post my progress here!!!


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghostman1911*
> 
> I though about mobo too, but i have 3 fans on it, and looking at the temps they are always the same, my h100i i bout 6 months ago, i used to have a h100.
> Sometimes my pc just freeze and i have to restart it, if is not the cpu i dont know what can be.


Well, if it's the CPU, the simplest way to check is to pass IBT AVX Very High and Prime95. CPU's job is to do math. If the CPU is damaged, it will make errors while doing math. Well, IBT and Prime will give errors either for CPU or RAM problem. I would also try to put the stock AMD cooler and see if anything changes. Freezes could be from defective/damaged CPU though. But, i would still try to run IBT on it, you never know. There have been various occasions in the forum where one motherboard mosfet was silently burnt, while the rest kept working. The only sign was that suddenly the CPU couldn't overclock as before anymore.

So, give it a try. If the CPU can do math, then something else is wrong. If you see the CPU fail even in IBT AVX standard, it's very probable that the CPU is damaged.


----------



## songokuyy

ok so,


on the above photo i got only 1 rather low spike while stress testing nb voltage is set to 1.30

i tried it again with nb voltage of 1.20 but IBT failed after 4 or 5 passes

i tried it again with NB voltage at 1.25 and got the bellow results


so if i understood correctly i should change it back to 1.3v the nb voltage right?

also i just noticed that the cpu voltage is 1.424 while idling and 1.408 while stress testing is that normal?
also 1 more question, if u look at the 2nd pic with the 1.25 nb Voltage core 0 and core 4 have slightly lower usage does that mean anything?

edit* failed IBT at 4th pass maximum level!

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Harzon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> It seems that the LLC functions on some of the M5A97 Motherboards does not function as intended.
> If you run into stability issues and strange voltages using LLC, it's recommended to leave it set to Auto.


I'm using M5A97 R2.0 and I wanna know what kind of stability issues we're talking about?

Thanks


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> 1. i usually enter the timings manually based on the rams sticker (9-9-9-24 @1600 @ 1.5) but since the ram now is overclocked i changed it to auto and then tried to tighten a little bit the timings and resulted to 10-11-11-41( should i change it back to 9-9-9-24 with more voltage?)
> 
> 2. Well i just bumped the nb to 1.25 just to see what happens xD not that i knew what i was doing !
> originally what i wanted is to hit around 250 bus clock.
> after i hit 231 i tried to rise the clock ratio instead , if i go the clock ratio way from now will i still need to rise dram voltage"?
> 
> 3. Also 1 more question, if the bus clock is 240 then the dram freq from 1333 becomes 1599, i assume the timings and voltage needed for this is as saying on the sticker 9-9-9-24 and 1.5? right?


1. Too many things being changed at one time. If you want to stabilize please work only *ONE* area at a time. Set memory timing to stock/sticker and maintain freq as close as possible within limits (tightening comes dead last). As the freq increases yes you may have to add Dram voltage (slightly) and retest along the way.

2. 250MHz Bus Clock shouldn't be an issue as it will work fine with 1600MHz Dram freq. I would start with HT Link Speed at 2500MHz, CPU/NB at 2250MHz (for now) and Dram freq at 1667MHz using stock timing. Yes you'll have to increase the Dram voltage some. Start with 1.55v. If it freezes this is usually a sign of a lack of dram voltage, increase it by .025v and repeat till freezing stops.

Start with 1.2v for CPU/NB voltage.
For now try leaving the actual NB voltage on Auto. Always be sure to use the proper term when referencing either the actual NB or CPU/NB.
Don't raise the actual NB voltage till you see the demand.

Here is one of the best guides for ole school Ref Clock OCing. http://www.overclock.net/t/525113/phenom-ii-overclocking-guide
It is old but contains a ton of great links/info on how to OC with ref clock.
Ignore what it says for raising the NB Freq (CPU/NB freq) as this is for Phenom II CPUs where things were different. This does not hold true for FX.

Don't get intimidated and read only one area at a time till it sinks in. This guide will also help to explain the "Proper Method" of how to optimize your setup as you OC.
Trust me, it will help you.

3. Read the guide above (bookmark it as you'll go back many times









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *songokuyy*
> 
> 1.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> on the above photo i got only 1 rather low spike while stress testing nb voltage is set to 1.30
> i tried it again with nb voltage of 1.20 but IBT failed after 4 or 5 passes
> 
> i tried it again with NB voltage at 1.25 and got the bellow results
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so if i understood correctly i should change it back to 1.3v the nb voltage right?
> 
> 2. also i just noticed that the cpu voltage is 1.424 while idling and 1.408 while stress testing is that normal?
> also 1 more question, if u look at the 2nd pic with the 1.25 nb Voltage core 0 and core 4 have slightly lower usage does that mean anything?


1. 1.3v for actual NB voltage seems very hi to me for only 230 to 240MHz ref clock.
Just for an idea my 24 hr P95 stable FX8350 running a 267MHz Ref Clock looks like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








Note the NB voltage! I would seriously consider trying actual NB voltage to Auto and see how it does. Raise it only if necessary. Less voltage is better.
Not saying it won't take some additional, I just doubt 1.3v.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

I'm about to have an AMD FX-8320e, the 95 watt version of the 8320. Is there anything I should be aware of, in addition to the overclocking advice in the first posts of this thread, while overclocking it? I'll also be doing it with a 970 chipset motherboard, the ASUS 970 Pro Gaming/Aura...


----------



## umeng2002

No, I have the same chip. It's the same chip as the rest of the FX line, just binned differently.

You might need SLIGHTLY less voltage than a normal 8320, but nothing special.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> No, I have the same chip. It's the same chip as the rest of the FX line, just binned differently.
> 
> You might need SLIGHTLY less voltage than a normal 8320, but nothing special.


Thanks.


----------



## Raskaipika

Hi people and thanks for this fantastic thread, I have questions about overclock in FX plataform:

Currently I've a FX 8320E processor (purchased one month ago) and I will purchase in a few days a new motherboard (ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0) to replace my old ASUS M5A88-V EVO which is NOT 100% compatible with FX processors, yes, I can use my FX 8320E but only with the original design (3,2 GHz - 4GHz clocks); and I've too an ASUS R9 280X Direct CU II TOP Edition graphic card

I've been reading the first page of this thread and now I understand how the FX OC process works in the ASUS motherboards, I don't know which is the limit of my processor, but I know that the M5A99X EVO R2.0 is a good choice for a moderate/high overclock, I want use the Turbo mode and I want to make the hybrid OC (FSB + Multiplier)

After the introduction, I've questions about the other important component, the RAM memory, I know that the M5A99X EVO R2.0 supports officially 2133 MHz modules, but in the QVL list (electronic manual downloaded from ASUS) appears 2400 MHz section, I will purchase 16 GBs from Kingston Hyper-X Savage family (or other that you recommend me). In the FSB+CPU Multiplier section of this guide (final chapter) I see that the best OC is set the FSB, CPU-NB, RAM and HTT to 2400MHz, of course, if your systems specs are enough for that velocity.

Which RAM's velocity do you recommend me???

Other thing is the motherboard, I will purchase the M5A99X EVO R2.0 because of its 6+2+2 design for the overclock, but I don't know if my processor will obtain all the beneficts of this motherboard, there is other (and cheaper) motherboard that is the ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0, maybe that motherboard is better for my processor or I will obtain the same results with both motherboards???

Thank you so much guys for your time and help, regards.

P.S.: Sorry for my horrible english, it's not my native language.


----------



## miklkit

Hi!









First off, when you start overclocking you will find that turbo is more trouble than it is worth. Most do not recommend it.

16gb of 2400 ram is probably out of reach unless you are an experienced overclocker. 2133 might work though. Actually, for anything under 4.7 ghz 1866 is fine. If you are using fsb overclocking you will have to downclock it anyway so it ends up where you want it.

The biggest difference between the 970 chipset and the 990 chipset is bus speeds and crossfire support. A 990 can support 2 video cards better and might give you a few more fps in games.

But mostly you want to have fun.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raskaipika*
> 
> Hi people and thanks for this fantastic thread, I have questions about overclock in FX plataform:
> 
> Currently I've a FX 8320E processor (purchased one month ago) and I will purchase in a few days a new motherboard (ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0) to replace my old ASUS M5A88-V EVO which is NOT 100% compatible with FX processors, yes, I can use my FX 8320E but only with the original design (3,2 GHz - 4GHz clocks); and I've too an ASUS R9 280X Direct CU II TOP Edition graphic card
> 
> I've been reading the first page of this thread and now I understand how the FX OC process works in the ASUS motherboards, I don't know which is the limit of my processor, but I know that the M5A99X EVO R2.0 is a good choice for a moderate/high overclock, I want use the Turbo mode and I want to make the hybrid OC (FSB + Multiplier)
> 
> After the introduction, I've questions about the other important component, the RAM memory, I know that the M5A99X EVO R2.0 supports officially 2133 MHz modules, but in the QVL list (electronic manual downloaded from ASUS) appears 2400 MHz section, I will purchase 16 GBs from Kingston Hyper-X Savage family (or other that you recommend me). In the FSB+CPU Multiplier section of this guide (final chapter) I see that the best OC is set the FSB, CPU-NB, RAM and HTT to 2400MHz, of course, if your systems specs are enough for that velocity.
> 
> Which RAM's velocity do you recommend me???
> 
> Other thing is the motherboard, I will purchase the M5A99X EVO R2.0 because of its 6+2+2 design for the overclock, but I don't know if my processor will obtain all the beneficts of this motherboard, there is other (and cheaper) motherboard that is the ASUS M5A97 EVO R2.0, maybe that motherboard is better for my processor or I will obtain the same results with both motherboards???
> 
> Thank you so much guys for your time and help, regards.
> 
> P.S.: Sorry for my horrible english, it's not my native language.


Welcome to OCN!

The M5A99X Evo R2.0 is a solid mobo and will work fine with a 8320e. In case you're not aware the 970 Aura is another (newer) mobo with *very* good VRMs etc http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132713 also has a M.2 slot and USB 3.1. Both will run/OC that chip with out issue. You'll want to add active cooling for the VRM HS and if there's room a fan behind the mobo to cool the backside of the CPU socket and VRM area. Notice the fan to the left of the CPU http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2152503/

OCing using Turbo is well... I'll just say it's not easy to do and I don't recommend it.
Multiplier only or HTT (FSB) OC is usually chip dependent, some like HTT while others are just the opposite. I've had both.

Max supported memory freq for FX is 1866MHz. While many/most can run higher there is no guarantee. 16GBs of 2400MHz Ram is not something every FX can do. Many can not.
The GSkill Trident-X kit in my rig sig is rated at 1866MHz but also runs very nicely at 2133 and 2400MHz as it's known to OC very well. This particular kit gives you options while many others don't.
IMHO I'd be thinking of either 1866 or 2133MHz with lowest timings I could find.


----------



## Ryokoshii

SO I am completely a noob when it comes to OC,
I have a Gigabyte GA 970 UD3P rev 2.0 board.
So on the first post of the guide do I need to follow those settings ( most of which I assume are for the programs?)
I stress myself out trying to do this right that I confuse myself on simple things on like what those settings are for etc. I am wanting to overclock my FX 8350 black edition till I can further upgrade to a skylake setup as all I need is Mobo and CPU for that.

Can anyone maybe at least give me a like a simple list or bullet point type explanation so I can understand better? I feel so silly and dumb haha.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ryokoshii*
> 
> SO I am completely a noob when it comes to OC,
> I have a Gigabyte GA 970 UD3P rev 2.0 board.
> So on the first post of the guide do I need to follow those settings ( most of which I assume are for the programs?)
> I stress myself out trying to do this right that I confuse myself on simple things on like what those settings are for etc. I am wanting to overclock my FX 8350 black edition till I can further upgrade to a skylake setup as all I need is Mobo and CPU for that.
> 
> Can anyone maybe at least give me a like a simple list or bullet point type explanation so I can understand better? I feel so silly and dumb haha.


The settings are for the BIOS, if you don't understand how to configure your BIOS, maybe you shouldn't be overclocking until you do - the settings in the post are a starting point for experimentation, and if you don't know what you're doing you'll screw it up - not a good thing to do with hardware, you could damage stuff or at least have it performing sub-optimally.


----------



## Raskaipika

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> The M5A99X Evo R2.0 is a solid mobo and will work fine with a 8320e. In case you're not aware the 970 Aura is another (newer) mobo with *very* good VRMs etc http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132713 also has a M.2 slot and USB 3.1. Both will run/OC that chip with out issue. You'll want to add active cooling for the VRM HS and if there's room a fan behind the mobo to cool the backside of the CPU socket and VRM area. Notice the fan to the left of the CPU http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2152503/
> 
> OCing using Turbo is well... I'll just say it's not easy to do and I don't recommend it.
> Multiplier only or HTT (FSB) OC is usually chip dependent, some like HTT while others are just the opposite. I've had both.
> 
> Max supported memory freq for FX is 1866MHz. While many/most can run higher there is no guarantee. 16GBs of 2400MHz Ram is not something every FX can do. Many can not.
> The GSkill Trident-X kit in my rig sig is rated at 1866MHz but also runs very nicely at 2133 and 2400MHz as it's known to OC very well. This particular kit gives you options while many others don't.
> IMHO I'd be thinking of either 1866 or 2133MHz with lowest timings I could find.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First off, when you start overclocking you will find that turbo is more trouble than it is worth. Most do not recommend it.
> 
> 16gb of 2400 ram is probably out of reach unless you are an experienced overclocker. 2133 might work though. Actually, for anything under 4.7 ghz 1866 is fine. If you are using fsb overclocking you will have to downclock it anyway so it ends up where you want it.
> 
> The biggest difference between the 970 chipset and the 990 chipset is bus speeds and crossfire support. A 990 can support 2 video cards better and might give you a few more fps in games.
> 
> But mostly you want to have fun.


Hi guys, first of all, thanks for your answers and sorry for the delay to answer you but I've been very busy the last days, I've created a new thread for my questions, can you take a look to it???

http://www.overclock.net/t/1617210/help-overclocking-fx-8320e-choose-the-correct-ram-and-what-to-expect

I've posted the same questions than here for others forum members, but if you can post there it will be fantastic, thanks again for your help and time, regards.


----------



## HOLLiiWOOD

AMD 8350 + MSI 970a Krait Edition

How I made TWO, FANCY paper weights.

MSI 970a Krait Edition CAN overclock, you just CAN'T stress test it.

Maximums for my 8350 were:

CPU
4600 @+0.1v (could have tweaked the voltage down a tad but only 0.01 incements)
CPU_NB
2600 @+0.13v
RAM
[email protected](patriot 1866ramOC
HTT
[email protected] 1.317v-ish

no turbo
no cool+quiet
no power saving states

worked great, until 20min of Prime95 (SMALL FFTs) blew a VRM.

after 10 min of prime95, if you have no failed cores, you are in the clear for gaming.

this mother board does NOT handle extended burn at those voltages; but probably would have ran The Rise of the Tomb Raider just fine.

It was my idiocy that ruined everything.

temps @10min (smallFFTs) were

package
60C
socket(TMPIN0)
65C
NB
84C(lots of cooling)

at this point i went to make a sandwich . . . .

I had ran a BLEND an In-place Large FFTs for 30 min each, cpu temp hovering around 56C for both, socket was 64C, NB maxed at 94C

I can say definitively, that had I not tried to extended burn this setup it would have been fine gaming, for me (rise of the tomb raider, carmaggedon: reincarnation, Dirt:Rally, DOOM.)


----------



## HOLLiiWOOD

inspecting the damage I have found the FETs nearest the NB heatsink are the DEAD.

NB HeatSink blocked the air i was sending in from the side.

but the fets are connected to the VRM heatsink with heatsink tape!!!!

if one REMOVES the tape AND spacers on the heatsink, one could use REAL heatsink paste and avoid sexy, sexy, inter-board-melting.

probably should start a thread up . . . .


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOLLiiWOOD*
> 
> inspecting the damage I have found the FETs nearest the NB heatsink are the DEAD.
> 
> NB HeatSink blocked the air i was sending in from the side.
> 
> but the fets are connected to the VRM heatsink with heatsink tape!!!!
> 
> if one REMOVES the tape AND spacers on the heatsink, one could use REAL heatsink paste and avoid sexy, sexy, inter-board-melting.
> 
> probably should start a thread up . . . .


You don't have the entire picture yet and you shouldn't blame it all on you. MSI is the LAST of all motherboard manufacturers, to implement VRM protection on its motherboards and in AM3+, not all of them have it or they have it, but not properly implemented.

Look at this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zTzpYjQ2MM

This behaviour is abnormal, but it's "normal" for MSI. Normally, any AM3+ motherboard above 50 euros from ASUS, Gigabyte or Asrock, would have "fought for its life", by triggering VRM throttling, caused by VRM overheating. This Krait MSI model, doesn't. It just bursts into flames. Go here and click MSI in the AM3+ table:

http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database

As you will see there is a column "VRM protection", where many MSI boards have "none". That's your problem with your model too. And this shouldn't be happening to a 80+ euro motherboard, but MSI did a horrible job on the VRM with your model. I vividly remember in the forum, a person who came here complaining that he couldn't play BF4 fluidly with "Asrock 970 Extreme3 and 9590". The Extreme3 is marginal for 4Ghz, has high RMA rates, doesn't even support the 9xxx series. Still, it was fighting for days, throttling, trying to avoid disaster, which was what causing the bad gaming experience. That's what a "normal" motherboard does when the mosfets overheat. The MSI Krait simply burns.

So, don't blame yourself, cause the Krait is an 80 EUR motherboard and MSI knows it too, that whoever buys 80 EUR motherboard for unlocked CPU, he will probably try to overclock too. MSI is also the last manufacturer, to still use the old D-PAK Nikos mosfets in several models (maybe yours too). This kind of mosfets, was responsible for the MSI "VRM failure record" in AM3.

http://www.overclock.net/a/database-of-motherboard-vrm-failure-incidents

In the MSI Gaming series, they 've put the newer Nikos power pak mosfets, which heat less than the older D-Paks, but it is interesting, that still, MSI is the only company to use this brand of mosfets in any AM3+ motherboard.

What does this tell you? You walked into a minefield when bought that board.

EDIT: RMA the motherboard. I am sorry, they sell this with OC Genie, so you are expected to overclock and for over 10 years now, pretty much everyone (including MSI), knows that when you overclock you will run stability test. So they should have implemented VRM protection. If this was a 2 year old motherboard, i could have said that, well, you 've treated it roughly for 2 years, it was bad luck. But on new motherboard? No. Their fault. I 've ran repeatedly 10h Prime on 55EUR, 4+1 unheatsinked mATX AM2+ Asrocks with 1090T and they never blew. And you run 20 mins of Prime on 80 euro motherboard and it's "normal to blow up?". No way.


----------



## Undervolter

Here's the "odd" VRM protection of the MSI G46. What other manufacturer does this?!
Quote:


> Hi Dan,
> According to RD engineers from our HQ,
> 1. AMD has claimed that the FX-8350 to be 125W. However, during our internal testing, when the usage of CPU reaches 100% through Prime 95 for a while, the power consumption can exceed 125W and reaches 140W. With such condition on the 970A-G46, the high amount of power draw also causes the MOSFET to exceed its spec and will overheat.
> Thus, to prevent such any potential hazard to the MOSFET, 970A-G46s *BIOS will trick the processor that its temperature is 225 degrees which will then allow the CPU to throttle.* This is aimed to make the system stable in this condition.
> 2. We had tested using 3DMark and it did not cause throttling. Throttling only happens when the loading on a 125W CPU usage is heavy by the use of heavy burn-in tools such as Prime 95/OCCT, and such testing methods are not standard usage scenario or practical.
> Please also keep in mind that this throttling behavior keeps system stable under such heavy-loading condition.
> This is more of AMDs issue on the FX-8350 because the TDP was rated lower than its actual value. http://forums.anandtech.com/showthre...2289809&page=2
> This image has been resized. Click this bar to view the full image. The original image is sized 934x519 and weights 84KB.
> 
> Currently, only the 990FXA-GD65/GD80 can handle up to 140W TDP, see below.
> http://www.msi.com/product/mb/990FXA...div=CPUSupport
> If you really need 140W boards such as 990FXA-GD65/GD80 then we can offer you a courtesy step-up option by paying for the differences.
> Please note that your current board will need to come in through RMA service, you are responsible for 1-way shipping sending the board to us, and the replacement board will be factory-rectified board but not brand new.
> The only accessory that will come with the replacement board is the I/O shield.
> 990FXA-GD65 - $40
> 990FXA-GD80 - $70
> Let me know if you have any questions, thank you.
> Sincerely,
> MSI Service & Support Division
> 
> https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/fx-8350-temps-look-fine-and-then-spike-up-to-255°-c-for-no-apparent-reason.2285799/page-3


Here, i just looked, the MSI 970 G46 is still on sale, for 91 EUR.
http://www.trovaprezzi.it/prezzo_schede-madri_msi_970_g46.aspx

And in MSI's website, it's not only listed compatible still with FX8350, but they 've added FX8370 too. If this isn't customer deception, i don't know what is. Oh yeah, please give people OC genie too!









So, RMA.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOLLiiWOOD*
> 
> AMD 8350 + MSI 970a Krait Edition
> 
> MSI 970a Krait Edition CAN overclock, you just CAN'T stress test it.


That is about as a contradictory statement as I have ever read in this forum. I believe it should read "if you can't stress test it you can't overclock it". That would be a more accurate assessment of that lousy motherboard.


----------



## Mega Man

@Undervolter

I will disagree here, not going to say all boards are worthy, but give me a break. Msi expects YOU to shut it down and YOU to assume responsibility when ocing.

You should be looking at them anyway, and monitoring. Survival of the fittest ends up winning.

It is not the boards fault.

Again this boils down to another case of budget components, budget results.


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Undervolter
> 
> I will disagree here, not going to say all boards are worthy, but give me a break. Msi expects YOU to shut it down and YOU to assume responsibility when ocing.
> 
> You should be looking at them anyway, and monitoring. Survival of the fittest ends up winning.
> 
> It is not the boards fault.
> 
> Again this boils down to another case of budget components, budget results.


Then it's a matter of expectations...When all the other manufacturers do throttling to all models at least above 50 euros, i would expect MSI to do the same. I am all about monitoring, but VRM monitoring isn't what you 'd call universally present in motherboards. None of the Asrocks i 've had, have it. So how am i supposed to know what's the temp? And even if there is a vrmtemp, is a newbie overclocker supposed to know what's the "limit" for the VRM temp? Apart the fact that on paper, mosfets endure up to 125C. Who says it didn't blow before...

I would agree about the results, but here he didn't get budget results, he got 0 results. The budget result would have been to have throttling at a low (budget) clock. Even the Asrock 980DE/US3 has throttling implemented. I had bought 2 of these for a friend for 45 EUR. The MSI 970 Krait, is just a poor design with no protection at all.

If this was 2003, where VRM protection was something exotic, i would agree with you. But this is 2016, i 've had VRM protection at least since AM2+ on this puny 55EUR motherboard:

http://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/A790GMH128M/

No, on my book, there is no excuse. In 2016, an 80 EUR motherboard with no protection is inexcusable. It's the equivalent of selling car without driver airbag, without even mentioning it of course. And in a platform, where VRM is of the outmost importance.

The GIgabyute 970 UD3P costs the same, actually a few euros less, than the Krait. I have posted my own pic of IBT at 4.5Ghz and another person's screenshot at 4.7Ghz. So budget board, but didn't burn. This tells something. Same could be said for the ASUS M5A7 EVO. Actually, the VRM throttling is WHAT WILL WARN the user and urge him to shut it down. When i put this Asrock Extreme3 to run 4Ghz undervolted, like my older model that never throttled, and yet this one started throttling, it was exactly the throttling that acted as warning and made me suspect that the VRM was overheating and later discover that 1 row of mosfets was uncovered by the thermal pad and also what made me add 2 VRM fans.

EDIT: Found it again (not mine). It's rev1.0, costs 2 EUR less than the Krait, 4.8Ghz IBT AVX Very High Stable. Budget motherboard, good results AND has VRM throttling.



EDIT: The only "hint" that the customer has about the absence of VRM protection in the Krait, is that in the "Military Crap", pardon me, "Military Class" advertisement part, they don't mention the mosfets. Sherlock Holmes would immediately suspect it.









Even my BIOSTAR TA970 Plus has throttling. BIOSTAR! I mean, BIOSTAR!


----------



## Mega Man

Meh. Expect what you want.

People buy a house and expect it not to burn. Does not mean it won't. Know what your doing, be informed stop making excuses for the "darwins"


----------



## Undervolter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Meh. Expect what you want.
> 
> People buy a house and expect it not to burn. Does not mean it won't. Know what your doing, be informed stop making excuses for the "darwins"


You can make a paragon with a house if you prefer, i prefer the one with "standard equipment" of a car. Expecting in 2016 to get a car with airbag is i think a "standard" for everyone. But we can agree to disagree.








I expect that in 2016, a 1200cc car will also have an airbag. That's all.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> @Undervolter
> 
> I will disagree here, not going to say all boards are worthy, but give me a break. Msi expects YOU to shut it down and YOU to assume responsibility when ocing.
> 
> You should be looking at them anyway, and monitoring. Survival of the fittest ends up winning.
> 
> It is not the boards fault.
> 
> Again this boils down to another case of budget components, budget results.


I have to disagree with you. Both MSI and ASRock market low end boards like they are boards capable of overclocking when in reality they aren't even capable when running a 125 watt cpu at stock.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chrisjames61*
> 
> I have to disagree with you. Both MSI and ASRock market low end boards like they are boards capable of overclocking when in reality they aren't even capable when running a 125 watt cpu at stock.


Ayup. "Let the buyer beware." isn't good enough anymore.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Ayup. "Let the buyer beware." isn't good enough anymore.


Isn't that the truth.


----------



## NeoGodOfDeath

Hey guys. I just got a Corsair H105 installed (after drilling some new holes to mount it) and so I've been overclocking my Fx-8350 but I can't seem to get it stable near 5Ghz. I've followed the guide and walked it up from stock to where it's at now, at 4.8Ghz but it still locks up in Prime 95 after about 30 seconds. No matter how much I bump up the voltage it doesn't seem to want to make it to the 10 minute mark.

I have:

Fx-8350
Corsair h105
Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
EVGA 1070 GTX
and 16 Gigs of Corsair RAM that speccy is telling me is running at 531 Mhz

What I'm looking for is stability for at least 10 minutes in P95 at 5+ Ghz. It's my understanding that this chip can go much higher than that, I think I'm just missing something.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## miklkit

It is most likely your motherboard. Do you have any fans blowing on the VRMs? The resident expert on that motherboard could not quite get 5 ghz out of it either.


----------



## NeoGodOfDeath

Yeah, I've got a little one from the stock cooler stuck to it. I use SpeedFan to monitor the temps and it wasn't anywhere near the thermal limits.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoGodOfDeath*
> 
> Hey guys. I just got a Corsair H105 installed (after drilling some new holes to mount it) and so I've been overclocking my Fx-8350 but I can't seem to get it stable near 5Ghz. I've followed the guide and walked it up from stock to where it's at now, at 4.8Ghz but it still locks up in Prime 95 after about 30 seconds. No matter how much I bump up the voltage it doesn't seem to want to make it to the 10 minute mark.
> 
> I have:
> 
> Fx-8350
> Corsair h105
> Asus M5A99FX Pro R2.0
> EVGA 1070 GTX
> and 16 Gigs of Corsair RAM that speccy is telling me is running at 531 Mhz
> 
> What I'm looking for is stability for at least 10 minutes in P95 at 5+ Ghz. It's my understanding that this chip can go much higher than that, I think I'm just missing something.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Not meaning to offend here, but is your 4.8 stable? If so with what test and how long.
It reads as if it still locks up (freezing?). If this is the case you'll need to get 4.8 at least halfway stable before going higher as this is often times "The Wall" for a lot of 8350s.
Not sure where you heard most 8350s can go higher. Some can with a proper cooling solution and mobo to match.

Running 4 sticks of memory adds a lot of stress to the IMC. You'll do much better running 2 x 8GBs.
It can be done, just takes more work and very easily could hinder a 5.0GHz. Try running 2 x 4GB till stable, and than add other 4GBs and retest.

Always manually enter all the dram specs located on the sticker of the dram itself (freq, lac, volt). The fewer items left on "auto" the better off you'll be.
Running 4 Dimms will/may require additional CPU/NB voltage and perhaps additional dram voltage to stablize.
I'd lay my money this is what is causing your current "freezing" issue.

DL IBT AVX version http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 and HWInfo64 and post a few snips more like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Start with setting at 10 runs on Very High. This will give us a better idea of how things look.
Looking at the snip in this post I see Vcore set to 1.452v for 5GHz? Looks very low to me.

You may want to post Bios snips for more help. You'll need to tweak the DIGI settings for 5.0.
Consider giving this a read http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig as it'll help those trying to help you.


----------



## NeoGodOfDeath

Hey Sandman. I'm at work right now but got what I could put in to my rig and sig. I'll take some screenshots when I get home of what you're after when I get the chance.

Edit:

Got home, dled IBT and HWInfo. Here is what I came up with. I also bumped up the voltage on the CPU two ticks in bios before getting into windows. This is still running 4 DIMMs as well. Forgot to pull a pair out before I turned on the power.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## miklkit

Your cpu temps are great but the cpu socket temps are getting high.

The results section in IBT AVX is -1 which means it is undervolted. You want to see +3 there. Keep after it.


----------



## NeoGodOfDeath

So do I just keep upping the voltage without increasing the multiplier at that point? I bumped the multiplier up 0.5 and the voltage to nearly 1.5v but I kept getting BSOD or just freezing during the test, if I could even get into windows without a BSOD.


----------



## miklkit

Yes. All CPUs are different but my very average 8350 needed well over 1.5 vcore for 4.8 ghz.


----------



## NeoGodOfDeath

I didn't think you were supposed to go over 1.5v? Isn't that the limit set in the guide?


----------



## Kryton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoGodOfDeath*
> 
> I didn't think you were supposed to go over 1.5v? Isn't that the limit set in the guide?


The guide in many ways is just that - A guide, not an absolute. There are indeed some thing to adhere to such as max temps under load for example but since each setup is different and the components themselves act in different ways too you just have to figure things out.

No two CPUs for example will behave the same way even if these are set into the same system with nothing changed except the CPU's themselves, you will see a difference between them in some way.

Unless you KNOW you can exceed 1.5v's without problems it's best not to as a rule of thumb..... But sometimes we do things we shoudn't anyway.


----------



## NeoGodOfDeath

Haha. Yeah, I know that first hand. I've been in court with my ex wife more times than I would like to count even though everyone and their dog told me, run.

What kinds of things will indicate that going over 1.5v is too much for my CPU? Is it just heat mostly, or should I be looking elsewhere as well?


----------



## PloniAlmoni

I am having problems getting overclocks with the wattage others have reported for the 8320E, I have to use a tad over 1.3V CPU to get an overclock of 4GHz with it, which is not normal for this processor. This is with all of the guidelines in this thread for the VRM settings, CPU settings, and so on, except for HT is 2400 because it's a 970 chipset, and CPU LLC is high rather than Ultra HIgh because Ultra-HIgh produces too much heat and isn't necessary reportedly on this motherboard. I also use a Noctua D14 as my cooler, and the motherboard, and specs of this system, are in the "AMD-RGB" build in my signature.


----------



## miklkit

"If you can cool it, then you can clock it." Temperatures seem to be more important than volts, but you still don't want to go over 1.55 unless you have extreme cooling.

When I worked on an overclock it was a stairstep process. First I would go up until it got kinda hot, then start tinkering with the little things. After a while it would be running at the same clocks but with a lower vcore. It was time consuming but worthwhile.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NeoGodOfDeath*
> 
> Hey Sandman. I'm at work right now but got what I could put in to my rig and sig. I'll take some screenshots when I get home of what you're after when I get the chance.
> 
> Edit:
> 
> Got home, dled IBT and HWInfo. Here is what I came up with. I also bumped up the voltage on the CPU two ticks in bios before getting into windows. This is still running 4 DIMMs as well. Forgot to pull a pair out before I turned on the power.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Any chance we could see snips of all your bios settings (DIGI and memory too)? Flash drive formatted FAT32 in a USB2.0 slot (NOT USB3.0) and hit F12 while in bios and save screenshot to flash drive.
I have no idea where you have CPU/NB voltage and Dram voltage set. Snips will put it to bed and save a ton of questions and answers.

You already know about needing more Vcore (probably) to raise those test results up to +3.xxxxxx but, if/as you add CPU/NB voltage this will act the same way (raising results value in IBT) so it can become a twin edged sword. I'll hold off recommending voltages till after we see where you are at present.

When you reach a point where additional Vcore no longer helps, it'll be time to back it off a bit and try something different. Keep good notes of the changes you're making and of how long it takes till test fails. This is important as you can start to see a pattern after a few runs with good notes!


----------



## twiztedxtasy

So i just purchased an MSI 970A Gaming Pro Carbon for my old phenom II chips and as im reading up on this thread i see that MSI doesn't seem to have that great of a track record when it comes to the VRM's ( looks like the krait editions are the problems? ). I was debating upgrading to an 8350 and overclocking the lights out of it, would that be recommended on this board? I searched and found it can handle a 9590, at least as MSI states it, so would i be in the clear with this one or should i go with something like an Asus 970 Aura instead? Im debating between these two solely because of the features they have for such an old socket. thanks in advance!


----------



## miklkit

The MSI board has a mixed track record. Some people do well with it and some can't get stock clocks stable with it. That makes me nervous.

The ASUS board has a solid reputation with users getting average to very good performance out of it.

If you are thinking about going with an 8350 later on methinks the Aura is the safer bet.


----------



## twiztedxtasy

So i ended up returning the MSI board today, and getting the aura set up, I found that the board doesn't have core unlocking features like my 970 pro carbon did. That's a huge bummer, since I am still rocking my phenom II 555 unlocked and overclocked ( I know I know, its OLD! ). Now I'm stuck with a dual core till I can grab what I'm hoping to get really cheap FX in the coming days to zen.

Shame, this thing can still hang in the games department, had mine stable at 3.70ghz. might have to get an older core unlocking board for this chip in the future.


----------



## miklkit

Oops!







Sorry about that.


----------



## S0Fluffy

hey guys i got a question. i got a fx-6300 and i already got it to benchmark at 5ghz. i run a stable overclock at 4.8ghz, nb 2.5ghz, HT 2.5ghz, Ram 9-10-9-27 @ 2000Mhz and temps will not go over 50 on max load. i already testen 5ghz at 1.57 V but it was almost stable, not yet. i think it needs 1.6V for 5ghz stable. but temps ran in the 60's. i have a custom loop btw.
do you guys think i can puch it over 5ghz for a benchmark? like 5.1 or something? i already scored 1st place in setup specific class in firestrike (fx-6300 + GTX960) with a score over 10k.. but i want to go a little higher lol. here's a pic of my desk.


----------



## Johan45

Only one way to find out and that's to try. I pushed my FX pretty hard on just water up to 1.7+ volts and it lived to tell about it. Stability and benchmarks are totally different and typically benching won't take as much voltage. Your stability is your benchmark. If the bench finishes and the scores improved it's stable enough.


----------



## Jakubek89

Hi! Guys I can not find stable OC for my FX 8320







. I hope, that you will be able to help me with that. I went through guide on the beginning of this thread, but still have some issues. first things first:

My platform:
- chassis - Silentium PC Gladius M20 with 3x PWM FANs : Arctic F12 PWM Rev. 2
- CPU: AMD FX 8320 with aftermakret cooler: SilentiumPC Fortis 3 HE1425 v2
- PSU: OCZ SXS2 600W
- MOBO: ASUS M5A97 r2.0
- RAM: 2x Kingston 4GB 1333MHz DDR3 CL9
- Graphic card: MSI GTX 970 Overclocked as shown on the attached foto:


- gaming keybord and mouse (but not high end hardware - I would say they are rather standard one)
- 2 x USB 3.0 Unitek Y-3901
- 1 SSD : Sandisk Ultra II
- 2x HDD: Seagatate baracuda 7200 rpm 320gb + WD Blue 1TB WD10EZEX 64MB cache SATA-600

well...and that is all.

I would like reach with my FX 8320 4,2 ghz level.

My current settings are presented on the attached screens:





I was testing CPU on Prime95 and after 3-4 minutes computer simple rebooted itself (without any blue screen or mobo sound warnings from attached speaker). Within those 3-4 minutes my temps reached 64 Celcius. So 1 degree below AMD recommended temperature.

I hope that more experienced forum users will help me to find stable OC for my FX 8320. If I have completely wrong settings in any field in AI tweaker or in advance section - please let me know. I am nooby, as it comes to BIOS OC so those values are based on couple tutorials form YT and guide on this thread.

The second question is, if prime95 is good program for stressing CPU. Maybe OCCt is better? Does any of those programs monitor and give you the feedback about reason of CPU instability? In order to find out why my CPU reboots?

Thanks for Help!!


----------



## PloniAlmoni

I can see right now you need to disable your C6 state, also put LLC on High rather than "Auto". Putting HPC on helps as well.

You also might need a fan blowing on your VRMs, this motherboard (M5A97) is a low-end one and although I haven't looked at its VRM specs it probably isn't too suitable for overclocking, though you should be able to make it to 4.2 fine.


----------



## Jakubek89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PloniAlmoni*
> 
> I can see right now you need to disable your C6 state, also put LLC on High rather than "Auto". Putting HPC on helps as well.
> 
> You also might need a fan blowing on your VRMs, this motherboard (M5A97) is a low-end one and although I haven't looked at its VRM specs it probably isn't too suitable for overclocking, though you should be able to make it to 4.2 fine.


thx for replay. doeas c6 state influence OC? I read that it switch cou on somekind power saving mode while idle...not full load.
as it comes to hpc ...is it safe to tutn it off?
as it comes to llc i have only 3 options: auto, disable, and on. and what it does?

as it comes to my mobo, it isn't highend but small oc should bear. And i think that there is heatsink on vrm section...although without additional fans there.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakubek89*
> 
> thx for replay. doeas c6 state influence OC? I read that it switch cou on somekind power saving mode while idle...not full load.
> as it comes to hpc ...is it safe to tutn it off?
> as it comes to llc i have only 3 options: auto, disable, and on. and what it does?
> 
> as it comes to my mobo, it isn't highend but small oc should bear. And i think that there is heatsink on vrm section...although without additional fans there.


c6 state usually keeps one from having a stable overclock. HPC should be on, it's safe either way, but you'll have somewhat more room for overclocking with it on reportedly. LLC should have several settings, if it doesn't, you probably won't be able to overclock with that board very high if it's only "disabled" and "on", though, again, 4.2GHz should be reachable albeit with a lot more fiddling with voltage to avoid droop.


----------



## Jakubek89

Ok, so to sum up:
- I will disable c6 state.
- HPC stays on
- LLC changing on Active (on)
- Starts to manipulate with CPU voltage. Is there any chance that LLC ON, will help me to achieve the stable OC with lower voltage on CPU? or it doesn`t work this way? -> To be honest, I noticed while performing OCCt test, that CPU voltage was around 1,38 all time in full load (despite the fact it was set on 1,4006 in Bios). So maybe I need lower voltage? I know, that stable voltage is very individual case, but probably there is some interval, where stable OC should be achievable, and if not, it means that some other options interrupt with achieving stable OC. Please bear in mind that I want to reach 4,2 Ghz (so it is not extreme OC).

One more question - Are other settings correct? I mean: Memory Freq, CPU/NB freq, HT link speed and voltages: CPU/NB and NB .... I found somewhere that Dram voltage should be set as fixed number as well.


----------



## PloniAlmoni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jakubek89*
> 
> Ok, so to sum up:
> - I will disable c6 state.
> - HPC stays on
> - LLC changing on Active (on)
> - Starts to manipulate with CPU voltage. Is there any chance that LLC ON, will help me to achieve the stable OC with lower voltage on CPU? or it doesn`t work this way? -> To be honest, I noticed while performing OCCt test, that CPU voltage was around 1,38 all time in full load (despite the fact it was set on 1,4006 in Bios). So maybe I need lower voltage? I know, that stable voltage is very individual case, but probably there is some interval, where stable OC should be achievable, and if not, it means that some other options interrupt with achieving stable OC. Please bear in mind that I want to reach 4,2 Ghz (so it is not extreme OC).
> 
> One more question - Are other settings correct? I mean: Memory Freq, CPU/NB freq, HT link speed and voltages: CPU/NB and NB .... I found somewhere that Dram voltage should be set as fixed number as well.


LLC, on even the cheapest boards used for overclocking, has usually several intermediate settings. If it's just "on" or "disabled" leave it on, it won't help you with droop much though, but having it off would be even worse. That's precisely what you see there, that CPU voltage is going lower than where you set it, this is known as "droop" which the various LLC settings such as "medium", "High" and "Ultra High" on ASUS OC boards, can help alleviate. Unfortunately you don't have those settings available so vdroop is going to be something you can't avoid. Actually, vdroop makes one need to have *higher* voltage settings to offset it rather than lower, by the way. You'll just make matters worse if you lower voltage further with that going on...


----------



## BertW

Hi,everyone.
I hope I am posting in the right place.
I bought my son a pc for xmas, in component form, and we built it over a couple of evenings and we are aiming to overclock it.
It is an fx8350 on an Asus 990fx sabertooth r3.0 mb with a cryorig H7 air cooler.
It is housed in a corsair spec 03 case and we have 2 fans at the front and one on the bottom drawing air in and 2 on top and one on the back as exhaust.
We also have a 40mm fan in the housing on the vrm, set to exhaust out the back.
Now before we think about overclocking I wanted to see what temp the cpu was running at in prime95 in stock mode.
It gets up quite quickly to 59 oC which seems high for running at stock settings.
I removed the cooler, cleaned off and re-applied thermal paste and re-seated the cooler, temps are exactly the same.
When I look through various forums people get lower temps than that after over-clocking so I get the feeling something is a miss.
Being new to the world of PC building I thought it best to seek advice rather than ploughing on regardless.

Many thanks in advance for any advice.


----------



## miklkit

Hi!

Your problem is that H7 cooler. It is only half a cooler and the stock cooler is better. Return it if possible and get something like a Noctua D14/D15 twin tower cooler. That should get you to 4.6-4.8 ghz.


----------



## BertW

Thanks for the quick reply. I bought the H7 as it got some good reviews but doesn't seem to be that good in reality. The d15 is available over here for not bad money, the d14 is not much cheaper unless I buy it from Australia but then there is import duty etc.
I will have a look at the D15 and check out measurements to be sure it fits.
It's a bit of a pisser as the H7 was difficult enough to get hold of over here but should sell on ok.
Thanks for the advice, looks like I will have to bite the bullet and tip my wallet out again.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> Your problem is that H7 cooler. It is only half a cooler and the stock cooler is better. Return it if possible and get something like a Noctua D14/D15 twin tower cooler. That should get you to 4.6-4.8 ghz.


I agree 100% but sadly the case is limited to a 157mm CPU cooler clearance if this is the correct case http://www.corsair.com/en-us/carbide-series-spec-03-red-led-mid-tower-gaming-case


----------



## BertW

Yes that's the case so I am limited. I have just been on the Noctua site to look at the size spec of the D15 and it would appear it is too tall.


----------



## BertW

Would any of the 120mm liquid cooling kits do a better job, corsair lists their H55, H60, H75, H80i kits as being suitable for this case or will the gains be minimal?
I wish I'd of run the build through a forum like this when buying the parts.
What a muppet.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BertW*
> 
> Would any of the 120mm liquid cooling kits do a better job, corsair lists their H55, H60, H75, H80i kits as being suitable for this case or will the gains be minimal?
> I wish I'd of run the build through a forum like this when buying the parts.
> What a muppet.


Your not alone








Happens a lot when the OC bug bites.

The AIO's they list are well... not enough. You won't be happy.
The case you currently have is limiting you. It cannot house even a mid sized AC (Hyper 212 159mm tall) which would only get you to *maybe* 4.4 - 4.5.
If I HAD to run a AIO it would be a 360mm and this won't fit the case either. I will admit I'm not a fan of AIOs.

The Rev 3.0 Saborkitty/8350 do have a lot of potential and make a *very* nice base to work from. The more cooling you have the higher the clocks period. More cooling = less noise.

I started WCing my 8350 with a XSPC kit http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g59/XSPC_Products.html?id=oUdMpNgH
A CPU only loop with a RS360 rad externally mounted and drive bay res/pump. A little more $$$ but allows you to "add on" as you upgrade etc plus OC with a lot more freedom from temps. This might also be something to research/price depending on the budget.

IMHO either direction (AC/AIO/WC) the case is not doing you any favors but I also know the budget doesn't always allow us what we'd like.


----------



## BertW

It was a juggling act picking the parts. The lad is only 8 so when he picked the case and said he wanted it because he likes it and he likes red I couldn't argue so on the list to Santa it went.
When I looked on the net for a decent budget air cooler the hyper 212 was the most mentioned.

However as you mentioned the 212 wouldn't fit the case so I started to consider water when I noticed a review of the H7. Having looked at a few reviews and videos the H7 seemd to be a better option than the 212 and reviews have it as outperforming the 212.

Everything seemed good but having fitted it the cpu temps go so quickly up to 59 oC at stock speeds that my first thought was that it must be faulty.

So now the issue is that the case wont take a decent size radiator, it wont take a decent size air cooler and the cooler I have is pants.

When it is running the cooler doesn't feel hot to the touch, should they feel hot?

Do I have a go at turning things up and see how the temps are?

Thanks for all the replies so far, much appreciated.


----------



## The Sandman

The cooler probably won't feel hot.
Turn all the fans up to 100% and give it a go!
Max CPU Core temp is 72c. AMD AOD will confirm this under "thermal margin".

Start with manually entering both CPU VID and CPU/NB VID along with all the memory specs off the sticker on the Dram itself. VID values can be found using HWInfo64.
The fewer items left on auto the better off you'll be.

I prefer to use IBT AVX version found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 as a prerequisite to Prime95.
See what 10 runs set to Very High does temp wise at stock settings to get a better idea of what to expect.
Once I pass 20 runs set to Maximum then I move on to P95. This can save a lot of time in the early stages of an OC.

Just be sure to watch those temps VERY closely!

Here's a peak at that external rad mount


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






It might not win best looking in class but sure did cool well.

Have fun, and good luck!


----------



## miklkit

You might want to unplug the computer and then remove the H7. Then measure from the top of the cpu to the side of the case. Case manufacturers often give a small fudge factor so that they have no manufacturing clearance issues. The side cover also has a bulge in it that might make a difference.

I am currently using a cooler that is too tall for my case, except that it does actually fit into the bulge in the side cover. Without that bulge it will not fit.


----------



## BertW

That's a good point about having a measure to see exactly what will fit. I read a review on the 212 that it will fit a spec-03 case but sits tight against the side window.
At this moment in time we are only heading for a mild overclock, say up to 4.5 . This may change in the future as he gets more and more into computing.

The radiator out the back looks a fair setup and the case does have holes in the back pre drilled for pipes to pass out of.
I think for us for now the first job is to see how this cooler stacks up when we start to turn up the cpu.

If it is as bad as it appears then I will tear it out and put the stock cooler on and keep it stock while we sell the H7.
They are rare over here, I found it on Ebay, it had been bought for a build and then they had gone water so it was unused in the box.

I have been looking at other coolers and looking at tests of coolers so will try and find one that suits the case for a mild overclock.
In a few tests I have looked at the H80i comes close to the D14 & 15.
The downside, apparently to the H80i is noise. One thing the H7 has going for it is that it is very quiet.
I will turn things up today at some point when everyone wakes up and see how we get on.

Many thanks again.


----------



## BertW

Quick update.
The H7 is on Ebay.
I fitted the stock cooler which is the old style, not the wraith? cooler.
Ran prime 95 at stock speeds, 59 oCelcius. Exactly the same as the H7.
OK so the fan is a bit louder but I feel a bit bummed that the temp is the same.
Played with the fan speeds a bit, temp came down to 57 with all fans at full speed so a 2 degree advantage with stock cooler over the H7.

The case window is bevelled outwards but the bevel doesn't cover the same area that a large air cooler would take up.

Will keep looking but I am at a loss now as to what reviews to trust. I know different set ups get different results and even one chip to the next can be different but
I bought the cooler based on the reviews found on the net and feel a bit mythed.

Thanks again for all the replies.


----------



## BertW

So I thought a little update was due, should of started my own thread







.

The Noctua d14 & d15 will not fit.
That is a real bummer cos those things seem really good, and quiet.
The price of a D15 and a new case was starting to stack up, although the noise levels given off are tempting me.

Looked into cooling options more and found someone who had fitted a corsair h100i into a spec-02 gaming case.
Measured up inside our case and it is do-able.

Bearing that in mind and having spent hours reading reviews and tests both on this site and others I am leaning towards
the Thermaltake water 3.0 extreme S. It will fit, just, and seems capable, if maybe a little noisy although I'm sure a future upgrade to a different
brand of fan would help. But then the cost of the cooler plus fans is probably heading towards the cost of a new case and a D15.

My head hurts.


----------



## miklkit

In the interest of reducing pain there is another alternative. The Noctua C14S. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0AJ55S4684

It is quiet and will fit in your case. It should cool better than the H7 but not as well as the D14/D15. One thing that it will do well is cool the motherboard down as it blows air down onto it.

Just another option and Happy New years!


----------



## drSeehas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> ... another alternative. The Noctua C14S. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0AJ55S4684
> ...


^This.

And if it isn't enough, you can install a second fan: "Dual fan mode".


----------



## BertW

What a great shout.

I can buy the c14s and an extra noctua 140 fan for £10 less than the cost of a h100i or tt water 3.
Looked at the specs and test results, seems a really good choice.

It will clear my ram in dual fan mode nicely.

However it will not go in unless I remove the two top exhaust fans.

At every turn my options are being compromised.

Fitting a h100i or the thermal take will be a real tight squeeze.

Having spent a good chunk at xmas I am not keen to throw big money at it straight away.

Having said that I think the first spend on this set up has to be on something that takes away the limitations when it comes to cooling.

It will have to be a new case.

The spec-03 was only £50 from amazon, hardly big money, and looking at it now it was a bad choice.

So I now need a case which will tick all the boxes.

Not too expensive, will take either a big air cooler such as the d15 or will take large radiators and have room for reservoir should we decide on that route, has slot for an optical drive (James' stipulation), Looks cool ( think 8 year old lad cool ) and has a side window, again James' request.

Last of all , Happy new year.


----------



## Synister

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BertW*
> 
> What a great shout.
> 
> I can buy the c14s and an extra noctua 140 fan for £10 less than the cost of a h100i or tt water 3.
> Looked at the specs and test results, seems a really good choice.
> 
> It will clear my ram in dual fan mode nicely.
> 
> However it will not go in unless I remove the two top exhaust fans.
> 
> At every turn my options are being compromised.
> 
> Fitting a h100i or the thermal take will be a real tight squeeze.
> 
> Having spent a good chunk at xmas I am not keen to throw big money at it straight away.
> 
> Having said that I think the first spend on this set up has to be on something that takes away the limitations when it comes to cooling.
> 
> It will have to be a new case.
> 
> The spec-03 was only £50 from amazon, hardly big money, and looking at it now it was a bad choice.
> 
> So I now need a case which will tick all the boxes.
> 
> Not too expensive, will take either a big air cooler such as the d15 or will take large radiators and have room for reservoir should we decide on that route, has slot for an optical drive (James' stipulation), Looks cool ( think 8 year old lad cool ) and has a side window, again James' request.
> 
> Last of all , Happy new year.


Will the cooler really interfer with those top fans? If so, just ditch them. You'll have a quieter system, and the positive pressure from front and bottom intakes will force the air out top too.


----------



## BertW

Yes I looked at the measurements on the Nocuta website and it is 75mm from CPU centre to the edge of the heatsink as it is offset to move it away from the GPU.
I only have about 63mm from centre to the top fans.

On another note I have started a new thread as I felt like I was hijacking this a bit.

Follow it now over at http://www.overclock.net/t/1619792/ramblings-of-a-confused-old-man


----------



## mthlay92

Off topic, but if you could recommend any threads::::::
I want to set up a HTPC using this board.
I plan on building a daily driver PC on a completely new platform soon.
However, what would be a good start to making this MOBO the best audio performer.
Thanks


----------



## BertW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ComputerRestore*
> 
> 
> 
> FSB & MISC Overclocking Section. (Sometimes offers fine tuning, but not required)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FSB Overclocking Recommended Ranges
> FSB - 230 to 300**
> **290 - 300+ may or may not work on your Motherboard
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> VDDA Voltage - 2.5 vto 2.65v - increasing this voltage will improve system performance when increasing the FSB
> HTT/CPUNB Speeds - Linking these speeds when FSB Overclocking has shown performance increases. The suggested range is 2400-2500Mhz for both. (If possible, linking the DRAM speed in this range will also increase performance)
> PCIe - Manually set to 100Mhz
> Other than that, the settings for NB,HT Link, CPU, DRAM, will all be the same as when Multiplier Overclocking.
> 
> 
> 
> FSB OC - Things to Consider
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Because most things are affected by the FSB (Multi * FSB = Frequency) you need to take into consideration what will be effected.
> 
> CPU
> HTT
> CPU/NB
> DRAM
> So in simple terms, you just need to select the highest stable FSB speed that you can, which will give you your desired OC results.
> 
> Also, once you have your desired Overclock, within your safe voltage, you can also increase the FSB by 1 point at a time, until you have your max stable overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> Recommended FSB Ranges
> 
> FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Would you like to have great Multithreaded Performance as well as a lot better Single Core Performance?
> Do you also like to save on hydro?
> 
> Well then this might interest you.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With Turbo Enabled, increasing the FSB also increases the Turbo Frequency
> With Offset Voltage Mode you can fully utilize C'n'C and APM Mode
> I recommend to keep the offset voltages to Auto with the "+" using Ultra LLC on the CPU and Auto LLC on the CPU/NB.
> If you are going for an extreme difference between stock frequency and Turbo frequency, then you should increase the CPU Offset Voltage to Compensate
> _Example: 4.6Ghz with a Turbo of 5.6Ghz you might need an offset of +0.15v_
> 
> The higher you raise the FSB, the higher the Auto CPU and CPU/NB voltage will be set.
> As you can see from my pictures, for my system the best FSB speed was 233. This allowed me to run my ram near my spec of 1866Mhz and also allows me to stay within my thermal limits when Turbo engages.
> 
> The actual turbo listed is not what it will go to. The Turbo listed is the highest level of Turbo - on an FX8350 that would be 4.2Ghz, so a Multiplier of 21. The normal turbo that will run all 8 cores is 4.1Ghz so a Multiplier of 20.5, which will let me run 4.776Ghz with a 233FSB.
> Under a heavy load, the CPU will cycle between my set CPU Ratio and the Turbo Speed to run cooler. Or it will just stay at the set CPU Ratio - which is ~4.5Ghz
> 
> So using this method I will have a 17% increase in Single Threaded Performance and a 12.5% increase in Multithreaded Performance.
> With the power saving features I idle at 68W. (Full System)
> At full load 280W which is the same as a Manual 4.5Ghz Overclock.
> 
> 
> 
> UnOfficial Overclocking Method
> Based on a Theory: Testing done by Mr-McRaven Link to Testing
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Recommended Settings
> ***Requires Fine Tuning with voltages.


OK so using the FSB + turbo method I have entered the settings as stated and the PC is running fine, benchmark scores are up and things are good.
This method suits us down to the ground, best of both worlds so to speak.
Running a stress temp temps are really good, socket temp is no higher than 56 degrees.

What should I watch out for using this method, CPU max voltage maybe? ensuring it doesn't go too high.?
Is there a specific test or number to look out for when using this method ?
I am tempted to turn things up a notch but want to be sure before I proceed. ?
If anyone would like to help I can get whatever info is needed and would be really greatful.

Thanks again...


----------



## TheProdigyTM

I cannot seem to located the digi+vrm section on my mobo. I have the asus m5a97 le r2.0 mobo. Am i screwed?!


----------



## miklkit

That is the version with no heat sink on the VRMs. You are not going to go far with it.


----------



## TheProdigyTM

Son of a b lol. So am i screwed or what? I cant seem to get passed 4.1ghz.

I have a fan over the vrm. Or am i in the wrong spot?


----------



## S0Fluffy

the vrm's should be between the cpu and the I/O , and yeah only a fan is not gonna do much, i dont think that is very good board for overclocking.


----------



## Diwiak

stick some small VGA RAM heatsink onto them??



heatsink from EVO version probably wont work, it have different layout, LE have only 4pin extra power supply, instead of EVO have 8, LE dont look too good for overloading


----------



## The Sandman

Actually these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011 are want you want. Along with a lot of *direct* air flow!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






But as mentioned a 4+2 non heatsinked VRM won't take long before you see issues. I'm taking it for granted you have a 8xxx chip?
Not a good idea to OC. Things heat up in a heart beat with quality components. Bad things happen with too much load on budget components.

Please give this a read as it'll help those trying to help you http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig


----------



## TheProdigyTM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Actually these http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011 are want you want. Along with a lot of *direct* air flow!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But as mentioned a 4+2 non heatsinked VRM won't take long before you see issues. I'm taking it for granted you have a 8xxx chip?
> Not a good idea to OC. Things heat up in a heart beat with quality components. Bad things happen with too much load on budget components.
> 
> Please give this a read as it'll help those trying to help you http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig


Ahh ok that is what I thought was my issues. Im thinking of just purchasing a Asus Sabertooth 990FX r2.0 or 3.0. Everyone seems to be loving those boards


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheProdigyTM*
> 
> Ahh ok that is what I thought was my issues. Im thinking of just purchasing a Asus Sabertooth 990FX r2.0 or 3.0. Everyone seems to be loving those boards


Good choice! If it fits the budget and you have no intentions of going with Zen.
Anything less may hold you back. The Aura is another one to consider, again depending on the budget.
Hands down the R3.0 would be my pick.


----------



## Melcar

What do you guys think will be better? RAM at 1866MHz with 10-10-10 in 1T vs 2133MHz 11-11-11 in 2T.


----------



## Diwiak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Good choice! If it fits the budget and you have no intentions of going with Zen.
> Anything less may hold you back. The Aura is another one to consider, again depending on the budget.
> Hands down the R3.0 would be my pick.


good idea, FX cpus are now well priced. If Iam building budget setup, I would go this way. Zen is still questionable.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> What do you guys think will be better? RAM at 1866MHz with 10-10-10 in 1T vs 2133MHz 11-11-11 in 2T.


It depends on the overclock. Higher clocks only help at 4.9 ghz and up. Tighter timings are generally better.


----------



## elpueblo

If anyone can help me with this: http://www.overclock.net/t/1620680/amd-fx8370-on-sabertooth-990fx-r3-0-overclock please do.








I tried to overclock on my older motherboard but it was unstable and windows crash in the end so badly that reinstall was needed. I followed several tutorials and no one was correct or good for me, thats why I'm asking for specific configuration in BIOS between AMD FX8370 & Asus Sabertooth 990fx R3.0.

Thanks a lot.


----------



## miklkit

Hi!

You have some decent hardware so this should be pretty easy. This guide in general should be a good place to start as most of the settings work for your board too.

What you need to start with is HWINFO64 to monitor temperatures and voltages. It is free and a quick search should find it.

Next is a fast reliable stress test. This one works well with FX. http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202 Start with "standard" and then try "very high".

Read your manual and turn off all the power saving things like svm, euops, c1e, and turbo. This will keep them from giving bad readings.

Make sure your ram is stable. If it is off then you will not be able to overclock. Is it showing as 2133 in the bios?

This is for an R2 board but your R3 should be the same. They are safe, do no harm settings that make a good starting point. 

For the speeds you want with the ram you have a straight multi overclock is best. You will want to set your "CPU & NB voltage" to "offset". This will allow you to use Cool N Quiet after you are done. Below that you will now see "CPU Offset voltage". Using the + and - signs you will want to set that manually to what it is now. No more than 1.4 volts to start with.

Next find the "AI Overclock Tuner" and set it to "manual". Below it you will find "CPU ratio". This is what you will be changing later.

Run IBT AVX and see if your setup is stable. If it is at "very high", then lower the offset voltage and try again. Keep doing this until it fails the test. Bump it up until it passes and now you have your Point A.

Now bump up the "CPU ratio" and run IBT AVX. It will fail. So now you bump up the offset voltage until it passes. Keep doing this until you reach your goal or the CPU temperatures get to 60C, whichever comes first.

Good luck!


----------



## elpueblo

Hi! Thanks a lot for your help. Can you check for me my settings if they're correct? Maybe I have some nonsense values there...

______________________________________________________________________

*Target CPU Speed 4700 MHz*
______________________________________________________________________

AI Overclock Tuner - MANUAL
CPU Ratio - AUTO - 23,5
AMD Turbo CORE Technology - DISABLED
CPU Bus Frequency - 20x
PCIE Frequency - 100
Memory Frequency - DDR3 - 1880MHz - ANY OTHER HIGHER VALUES CAUSE THAT PC IS BEEPING AND THEN RESTARTED. MAXIMUM VALUE TO BE SET IS 21XX BUT I CAN GO MAX. WITH 1880.
CPU/NB Frequency - 2350MHz
HT Link Speed - 2350MHz
CPU Spread Spectrum - DISABLED
PCIe Spread Spectrum - DISABLED
EPU Power Saving Mode - DISABLED

CPU & NB Voltage - OFFSET MODE
Offset Mode Sign - "+"
CPU Offset Voltage - (1.476V) = 0.093750
CPU/NB Offset Mode Sign - "+"
CPU/NB Offset Voltage - (1.225V) = 0.037500
CPU VDDA Voltage - AUTO
DRAM Voltage - (1.507V) = 1.50000
NB Voltage - AUTO
NB HT Voltage - AUTO
NB 1.8V Voltage - AUTO
VDD PCIE - AUTO
VDDR - AUTO

*DIGI+ POWER CONTROL*

CPU Load Line Calibration - ULTRA HIGH
CPU/NB Load Line Calibration - HIGH
CPU Current Capability - 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
CPU Power Phase Control - Manual Adjustment
Manual Adjustment - FAST
CPU Voltage Frequency - AUTO
VRM Spread Spectrum - DISABLED
CPU Power Duty Control - T.PROBE
CPU Power Response Control - AUTO
CPU Power Thermal Control - AUTO
DRAM Current Capability - 130%
DRAM Voltage Frequency - 400
DRAM Power Phase Control - EXTREME
______________________________________________________________________

COOL 'n' QUIET - DISABLED
C1E - DISABLED
SVM - DISABLED
Core C6 STATE - DISABLED
HPC MODE - ENABLED
Apm Master Mode - DISABLED
______________________________________________________________________

*TEMPERATURES*

With Intel Brun Test MAXIMUM SETTING ON:
HWinfo CPU Temperature - 70C / 158F
Core Temp 1.5 - CPU Max. 60C / 140F
Core Temp 1.5 - Tj. Max. 90C / 194F
VCORE1 - 80C/ 176F
Mainboard - 30C / 86F

When IDLE:
HWinfo CPU Temperature - 38C / 100F
Core Temp 1.5 - CPU Max. 30C / 86F
Core Temp 1.5 - Tj. Max. -C / -F
VCORE1 - 45C/ 113F
Mainboard - 34C / 93F

Fans speed always on 60-70%

hwinfo.png 42k .png file


*I DO NOT RUN TEST TILL END BECAUSE TEMPERATURES FOR VCORE1 AND CPU GOES TO RED NUMBERS AND I WAS AFRAID TO CONTINUE.*


----------



## mirzet1976

CPU Bus Frequency - 235 typo error 200mhz or is multi 20x, and for higher RAM speed rise DRAM Voltage to 1.6-1.65V


----------



## miklkit

Yes that looks like a FSB overclock. With my R2 when I try FSB it sets the ram to 1600 and then I have to keep bumping up the CPU bus frequency to get it faster.

With a straight multi overclock I could set the ram where it is supposed to be and then just bump up the multi and vcore.

With 2133 ram I would suggest just setting it to that in the bios and going with a multi OC. It is much easier that way.

Your LLC is too high and is causing excessive heat. You do not have the greatest cooling and are already at or over your thermal limits.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elpueblo*
> 
> Hi! Thanks a lot for your help. Can you check for me my settings if they're correct? Maybe I have some nonsense values there...
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________
> 
> *Target CPU Speed 4700 MHz*
> ______________________________________________________________________
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> AI Overclock Tuner - MANUAL
> CPU Ratio - AUTO - 23,5
> AMD Turbo CORE Technology - DISABLED
> CPU Bus Frequency - 235
> PCIE Frequency - 100
> Memory Frequency - DDR3 - 1880MHz - ANY OTHER HIGHER VALUES CAUSE THAT PC IS BEEPING AND THEN RESTARTED. MAXIMUM VALUE TO BE SET IS 21XX BUT I CAN GO MAX. WITH 1880.
> CPU/NB Frequency - 2350MHz
> HT Link Speed - 2350MHz
> CPU Spread Spectrum - DISABLED
> PCIe Spread Spectrum - DISABLED
> EPU Power Saving Mode - DISABLED
> 
> CPU & NB Voltage - OFFSET MODE
> Offset Mode Sign - "+"
> CPU Offset Voltage - (1.476V) = 0.093750
> CPU/NB Offset Mode Sign - "+"
> CPU/NB Offset Voltage - (1.225V) = 0.037500
> CPU VDDA Voltage - AUTO
> DRAM Voltage - (1.507V) = 1.50000
> NB Voltage - AUTO
> NB HT Voltage - AUTO
> NB 1.8V Voltage - AUTO
> VDD PCIE - AUTO
> VDDR - AUTO
> 
> *DIGI+ POWER CONTROL*
> 
> CPU Load Line Calibration - ULTRA HIGH
> CPU/NB Load Line Calibration - HIGH
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> CPU Power Phase Control - Manual Adjustment
> Manual Adjustment - FAST
> CPU Voltage Frequency - AUTO
> VRM Spread Spectrum - DISABLED
> CPU Power Duty Control - T.PROBE
> CPU Power Response Control - AUTO
> CPU Power Thermal Control - AUTO
> DRAM Current Capability - 130%
> DRAM Voltage Frequency - 400
> DRAM Power Phase Control - EXTREME
> ______________________________________________________________________
> 
> COOL 'n' QUIET - DISABLED
> C1E - DISABLED
> SVM - DISABLED
> Core C6 STATE - DISABLED
> HPC MODE - ENABLED
> Apm Master Mode - DISABLED
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________
> 
> *TEMPERATURES*
> 
> With Intel Brun Test MAXIMUM SETTING ON:
> HWinfo CPU Temperature - 70C / 158F
> Core Temp 1.5 - CPU Max. 60C / 140F
> Core Temp 1.5 - Tj. Max. 90C / 194F
> VCORE1 - 80C/ 176F
> Mainboard - 30C / 86F
> 
> When IDLE:
> HWinfo CPU Temperature - 38C / 100F
> Core Temp 1.5 - CPU Max. 30C / 86F
> Core Temp 1.5 - Tj. Max. -C / -F
> VCORE1 - 45C/ 113F
> Mainboard - 34C / 93F
> 
> Fans speed always on 60-70%
> 
> hwinfo.png 42k .png file
> 
> 
> *I DO NOT RUN TEST TILL END BECAUSE TEMPERATURES FOR VCORE1 AND CPU GOES TO RED NUMBERS AND I WAS AFRAID TO CONTINUE.*


You can use a thumb drive ( FAT32) in a USB 2.0 port (drivers for 3.0 do not load till your in windows) and use the F12 key while in Bios to take screen shots of Bios settings rather than risking a typo as above. One too many unknowns in the text above.

Screen shots show all and tell all plus save a lot of text








HWInfo and IBT results are more helpful displayed like this


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Why are fans not running 100% during tests?

If you cannot complete a test due to temps you need to lower your OC to a point where it can pass stress testing.
Show us a snip like above with useful info showing (not 8 places of CPU VID or something) in HWinfo64 not HWMonitor please. You may need to rearrange a few values or expand it to show them all.
It's best to only run one monitoring utility at a time, fewer conflicts.


----------



## asusOCnut

Can i use this for asus m5a99fx pro r2.0 motherboard? Would like a step by step guide to hit 4.5ghz with stable voltage and and core speed


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asusOCnut*
> 
> Can i use this for asus m5a99fx pro r2.0 motherboard? Would like a step by step guide to hit 4.5ghz with stable voltage and and core speed


Yes those two boards are nearly identical aside from the chipset.


----------



## asusOCnut

Is there any possibility that id be able to get help with this if possible. Would like a guide if anyone has one for this board


----------



## Johan45

As for settings the first post in this thread pretty much has that covered. The OC part is fairly simple. Raise the cpu multiplier and test. You can leave the voltage on auto to start unles you're getting thermal issues. Watch your temps and voltages. When you find things aren't stable then take the voltage you observed whle testing and add a bit. Using offset will be the easiest, just set it to + and add a little at a time untill it stabilizes. The do it again until you reach the end of your cooling. Every system/CPU is different there are not plag and play settings really.
We don't even know what parts you are using but most systems will do around the 4.5GHz mark with 1.4v but that just a guess yours might need more or less depends on cooling and CPU quality


----------



## miklkit

Yes it would help a lot if you could put your rig in your sig. Click on your avatar and then scroll all the way down to the bottom.


----------



## asusOCnut

Does AMD Overdrive work for overclocking? Or no? One of my friends said thats what he used and it worked


----------



## The Sandman

Utility OCing is never recommended. Results are seldom stable, never optimized and usually over volted.
Always best to OC from the Bios!


----------



## Johan45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asusOCnut*
> 
> Does AMD Overdrive work for overclocking? Or no? One of my friends said thats what he used and it worked


Sure it works, you can also pound a screw in with a hammer but it's not the right tool for the job. Do as Sandman says and OC through BIOS. It's not hard and the more you read and look at your BIOS the more you'll understand and the less intimidating it is.


----------



## Diwiak

Overclocking from OS is bad, MKAY


----------



## Mega Man

Not always, Is it msi you need to use software?


----------



## elpueblo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> You can use a thumb drive ( FAT32) in a USB 2.0 port (drivers for 3.0 do not load till your in windows) and use the F12 key while in Bios to take screen shots of Bios settings rather than risking a typo as above. One too many unknowns in the text above.
> 
> Screen shots show all and tell all plus save a lot of text
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> HWInfo and IBT results are more helpful displayed like this
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why are fans not running 100% during tests?
> 
> If you cannot complete a test due to temps you need to lower your OC to a point where it can pass stress testing.
> Show us a snip like above with useful info showing (not 8 places of CPU VID or something) in HWinfo64 not HWMonitor please. You may need to rearrange a few values or expand it to show them all.
> It's best to only run one monitoring utility at a time, fewer conflicts.


I know you like screenshots, but I never found a specific setting in txt which is a much easier to find trough search engines and also here in forum. You can't find specific values you need to put into BIOS on screenshots. So that's why I used pure text. I have idea about to create an documentation for people with txt files like one I sent, so they can easily OC on specific hardware without further knowledge. It's for people like me







who don't know much about voltage and which are looking for simple solution.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asusOCnut*
> 
> Does AMD Overdrive work for overclocking? Or no? One of my friends said thats what he used and it worked


Please never use AMD tool or any other tool. Stability is very poor then.

I'm running on settings I posted above for a few weeks and it looks everything is working pretty fine. Anyway, let me know if you see errors in my list so I can improve it and share with other users!

Thanks a lot.


----------



## miklkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not always, Is it msi you need to use software?


You do not need to use software with MSI, but it is so good that there is no reason not to use it.


----------



## Mega Man

Not true, on the gd80 iirc it is required to go above a certain voltage

Iirc it is @cssorkinman


----------



## miklkit

Not true.

Going higher than the stock bios allows is purely optional, it is not required to go higher than that. I got to 4.6 ghz on the stock bios, but it is so easy to use the software there is no reason not to use it.


----------



## Montana Bob

Does anyone still monitor this site? Can not get OC and it is driving me crazay I have read and searched and still just as lost as ever






















I feel like I am super close but after a certain point nothing I do seems to have any effect or at least any postive effect. I can knock out ten pages of hand written notes in abut 10 hours documenting every minute adjustment and its effect. After a certain point nothing seems to improve performance and the oc is still not stable and a whole day is wasted. So far 4214Mhz but not overly stable is all I can get out of Vishera 8350 and keep it under 60c
Anyone that can help reach out to me for build details thx


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not true, on the gd80 iirc it is required to go above a certain voltage
> 
> Iirc it is @cssorkinman


It is dependent on the situation.

The 990 FXA GD80V2 with early bios versions limits voltage to 1.44 volts - which isn't enough to go very far on early 8 core vishera's but will get 4.8 ghz on my post batch 1429 8370's. There are 3 ways to go above that voltage - set the fsb over 300 in bios ( why it does that I don't know) - use control center overclocking utility in OS - or use click bios 2 - which I wouldn't recommend on the early bios versions for that board. This will allow up to 1.92 volts to the cpu in any of those 3 scenarios. If you have the combination of an early bios and early 83XX vishera the best way to overclock is using control center software - it is the best utility I've used. There are situations where software adjustment of the multiplier will case spastic results in certain benchmarks/games - 3dmark Vantage being one of them. The best way to get around that is to set the cpu voltage to 1.44 volts in bios, lower the FSB and set the multiplier as desired then once in the OS - top off the overclock using FSB.

Another situation where you are almost forced to use software to overclock is if you place an FX 9XXX chip on the MSI 990 gaming as it will lock the voltages in bios to the stock VID. Once you have the machine running it will let you increase voltage their software utility which works very well.

The cause for the misunderstanding is a matter of different perspectives between miklkit and myself. When used with early bios versions , clickbios is terrible and has soured me on using it, he runs a later bios that must work better with it.

If you want the best bios for heavy loads and high memory frequencies with the 990 GD-80 use the newest. If the object is highest cpu frequencies, running cooler, and for about any benchmark the one I have on mine is probably best for that ( 11.7 - I think..... ).

If I had to rate software overclocking utilities for 990 boards MSI's Control center/command center would be the best, followed by ASROCK's XTU, ASUS's AI suite, Overdrive and lastly the Gigabyte utility who's name escapes me at present ( kill it with fire bad).


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Does anyone still monitor this site? Can not get OC and it is driving me crazay I have read and searched and still just as lost as ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I am super close but after a certain point nothing I do seems to have any effect or at least any postive effect. I can knock out ten pages of hand written notes in abut 10 hours documenting every minute adjustment and its effect. After a certain point nothing seems to improve performance and the oc is still not stable and a whole day is wasted. So far 4214Mhz but not overly stable is all I can get out of Vishera 8350 and keep it under 60c
> Anyone that can help reach out to me for build details thx


Welcome to OCN

Why not start by giving this a read so we all know what your system contains http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
Without knowing this, not much help to offer. Posting Bios pics would also be of help at this point.


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Does anyone still monitor this site? Can not get OC and it is driving me crazay I have read and searched and still just as lost as ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I feel like I am super close but after a certain point nothing I do seems to have any effect or at least any postive effect. I can knock out ten pages of hand written notes in abut 10 hours documenting every minute adjustment and its effect. After a certain point nothing seems to improve performance and the oc is still not stable and a whole day is wasted. So far 4214Mhz but not overly stable is all I can get out of Vishera 8350 and keep it under 60c
> Anyone that can help reach out to me for build details thx
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome to OCN
> 
> Why not start by giving this a read so we all know what your system contains http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
> Without knowing this, not much help to offer. Posting Bios pics would also be of help at this point.
Click to expand...

yes please [email protected]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cssorkinman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Not true, on the gd80 iirc it is required to go above a certain voltage
> 
> Iirc it is @cssorkinman
> 
> 
> 
> It is dependent on the situation.
> 
> The 990 FXA GD80V2 with early bios versions limits voltage to 1.44 volts - which isn't enough to go very far on early 8 core vishera's but will get 4.8 ghz on my post batch 1429 8370's. There are 3 ways to go above that voltage - set the fsb over 300 in bios ( why it does that I don't know) - use control center overclocking utility in OS - or use click bios 2 - which I wouldn't recommend on the early bios versions for that board. This will allow up to 1.92 volts to the cpu in any of those 3 scenarios. If you have the combination of an early bios and early 83XX vishera the best way to overclock is using control center software - it is the best utility I've used. There are situations where software adjustment of the multiplier will case spastic results in certain benchmarks/games - 3dmark Vantage being one of them. The best way to get around that is to set the cpu voltage to 1.44 volts in bios, lower the FSB and set the multiplier as desired then once in the OS - top off the overclock using FSB.
> 
> Another situation where you are almost forced to use software to overclock is if you place an FX 9XXX chip on the MSI 990 gaming as it will lock the voltages in bios to the stock VID. Once you have the machine running it will let you increase voltage their software utility which works very well.
> 
> *The cause for the misunderstanding is a matter of different perspectives between miklkit and myself*. When used with early bios versions , clickbios is terrible and has soured me on using it, he runs a later bios that must work better with it.
> 
> If you want the best bios for heavy loads and high memory frequencies with the 990 GD-80 use the newest. If the object is highest cpu frequencies, running cooler, and for about any benchmark the one I have on mine is probably best for that ( 11.7 - I think..... ).
> 
> If I had to rate software overclocking utilities for 990 boards MSI's Control center/command center would be the best, followed by ASROCK's XTU, ASUS's AI suite, Overdrive and lastly the Gigabyte utility who's name escapes me at present ( kill it with fire bad).
Click to expand...

and the fact you have good cooling









not to mention, see software ocing isnt always bad, just 99% of the time


----------



## miklkit

Different experiences would give different attitudes. When I first got the GD80 I knew nothing about OCing or a bios. I spent a lot of time on the MSI forum where there was a community of users sharing experiences. There was a large German group that was pretty close to MSI. They would make suggestions and MSI would make a bios for them.

Anyway, when I first tried Control Center I did something wrong and it ruined the computer. I had to reinstall the OS. So I avoided it after that and used Click bios II only. The only problem I had with it was it would sometimes quit working. A quick reinstall would fix that.

This board started out with an 11.x bios and of course i wanted to flash it to the last 11.x version but it refused. I literally spent months trying and failing to flash it. I even tried one method that was almost guaranteed to brick it and, nothing. So I tried the 13.x bios and it worked! And it works just fine and flashes to the next version just fine too.

Shortly after that MSI quit responding to posts by the Germans and all support for the GD80 stopped. Bummer. It's a good board that deserves some support.

In 2015 I tried CC again and avoided the green section that trashed my puter the first time and it works fine. After that I would do the OC tests in CC and then at the end of the session copy the new settings to CBII and save them to bios. That way there is no need to keep it running 24/7. I have always turned it off at night and always will.

Cooling? I looked into water cooling and even started down that dry gulch. Then realized that it would cost almost as much as my entire puter. All for essentially no gain. No thanks.


----------



## Montana Bob

Not sure how to post pics of BIOS. I don't have cell phone at the moment.
I found the rig builder thing a little intimidating as I have no idea what I am doing with it. Despite its intuitive use some of my components are not listed.
I am sure there are a bunch of better parts, this is what I have cobbled together over the last...5 years or so.
I have 5 stock 140mm fans in the case, a push pull 120 mm fan config on my CPU and I added another 120mm fan blowing on the back of the socket.
I can get it up to about 4.7G but only for like 7 seconds under load before it hits 62+c
I can crank it down to 4214MHZ but it consistently fails at over 5 minutes and temps around 58c under full load.
I know the risks involved and hope that as long as I pay attention to temps I can keep from frying something.
I use prime95 and HW monitor along with Speedfan and a stopwatch to test stability and temps.
Super jealous of the advertised 4.4 to 4.5G on air I saw quoted in the start of this forum.
I want to get the full water cooled package, but I can't do anything with it on air, so I can't justify spending more on it until then.
Any help would be appreciated. I can throw down what I set to what as I have pages and pages of notes I took, along with the result.
I want to OC everything, CPU, GPU, MEM, whatever else I can. Thanks in advance.


----------



## gertruude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Not sure how to post pics of BIOS. I don't have cell phone at the moment.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> I found the rig builder thing a little intimidating as I have no idea what I am doing with it. Despite its intuitive use some of my components are not listed.
> I am sure there are a bunch of better parts, this is what I have cobbled together over the last...5 years or so.
> I have 5 stock 140mm fans in the case, a push pull 120 mm fan config on my CPU and I added another 120mm fan blowing on the back of the socket.
> I can get it up to about 4.7G but only for like 7 seconds under load before it hits 62+c
> I can crank it down to 4214MHZ but it consistently fails at over 5 minutes and temps around 58c under full load.
> I know the risks involved and hope that as long as I pay attention to temps I can keep from frying something.
> I use prime95 and HW monitor along with Speedfan and a stopwatch to test stability and temps.
> Super jealous of the advertised 4.4 to 4.5G on air I saw quoted in the start of this forum.
> I want to get the full water cooled package, but I can't do anything with it on air, so I can't justify spending more on it until then.
> Any help would be appreciated. I can throw down what I set to what as I have pages and pages of notes I took, along with the result.
> I want to OC everything, CPU, GPU, MEM, whatever else I can. Thanks in advance
> 
> 
> .


flash drive plugged in and press F12 to take screenshots

topost in here press the picture icon and upload files


----------



## Montana Bob

What pics do you want to see? Let me know so I don't blow up this site with useless pics.
I can take pics of my most stable oc...something like 37+minutes @56c pulling 4.2G or I can post pics of something hotter.


----------



## Montana Bob

I realized my BIOS was out of date. It is now version 901.
Let me know if there are any other shots you want to see. Thanks in advance


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> What pics do you want to see? Let me know so I don't blow up this site with useless pics.
> I can take pics of my most stable oc...something like 37+minutes @56c pulling 4.2G or I can post pics of something hotter.


All we ever need is anything you have changed

You.need to change voltages to oc any higher go back and read the first post of this thread


----------



## Montana Bob

For whatever mysterious reason this site isn't allowing me to upload the very same bmp it allowed me to upload yesterday.
Long story short, set everything as suggested...again...set cpu ratio to 20.0 and it hit 62 c in 21 seconds. Will post screenshots if I can


----------



## Montana Bob

I got these to load by switching to my laptop. I loaded all of the optimized settings and just for fun my rig decided not to find the OS.
Had this issue yesterday after updating the BIOS. Difference today is reinstalling the update had no effect.
Now what do I do with it.
Just to confirm, these settings had me at 62c in something like 21 seconds running prime 95 with all my fans at 100%


----------



## Mega Man

that sounds like cooling. I assume you already have filled out rigbuilder (if not see link in my signature.

I am on mobile so I cant see it but i will check when I get home.

Let's ask some basic questions, what clock speed do you want to get, (and from that, with your cooling are your expectations realistic)

You have not followed this guide at all. Your vcore is on auto, and your Nb is also on auto.

Disable svm unless your using virtualization, if you don't know what that is, then you are not using it, and it hurts performance

NB should be+0.1v (1.2)

What is your chips vid?

As to the OS, have you still not fixed that? You probably need to force the proper hd to be boot drive, but I am taking a shot in the dark with no information to go off of


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> For whatever mysterious reason this site isn't allowing me to upload the very same bmp it allowed me to upload yesterday.
> Long story short, set everything as suggested...again...set cpu ratio to 20.0 and it hit 62 c in 21 seconds. Will post screenshots if I can


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got these to load by switching to my laptop. I loaded all of the optimized settings and just for fun my rig decided not to find the OS.
> Had this issue yesterday after updating the BIOS. Difference today is reinstalling the update had no effect.
> Now what do I do with it.
> Just to confirm, these settings had me at 62c in something like 21 seconds running prime 95 with all my fans at 100%


As Mega says you're not following the guide.
We still have no idea what hardware you have (mobo, cooling solution etc) and you still ask for more help.
Why not help us help you?

From snips above
Vcore on Auto ?
CPU/NB volt @ 1,250 for default CPU/NB Freq of 2200MHz - CPU/NB VID is what's ness unless running 32GB of Ram perhaps. Can't tell no rig sig.
Dram volt showing1.621v currently, but has 1.500v manually entered?
CPU Ratio set to Auto yet to mention it being set to 20? Confusing.
PCIE freq set to Auto - should be 100MHz.
Memory freq set to Auto - always manually enter *ALL* Dram specs, Timing, Freq and Voltage.
Both CPU and PCIE Spread Spectrum should be set to Disabled

These are a few of what I can see that need correcting.
If you wish to conserve a little space when posting multiple snips use the "Spoiler" icon (7th to the left of attachment icon) looks like a black monitor which I did with this quote









I agree somethings up with your cooling but again we have absolutely no idea what we're dealing with due to a lack of rig sig.
Screen shots like this help as they show most everything we need to see


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







HWInfo64 Free
IBT AVX version found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202

Be careful to watch temps and try maybe 10 passes set to "Very High" and post results like above.


----------



## Montana Bob

Maybe I don't understand what some of these things are as well as I thought I did.
I followed exactly what I thought the instructions are including setting the DRAM voltage to 1.5...
I did put my rig in the sig as suggested. Perhaps it hasn't been done correctly.

So my rig is as follows.
Vishera 8350 CPU
Asus 970 gaming pro Aura MOBO
2x Raedon r9 270 oc GPU
2x8 GB HyperX Savage ddr3 memory @ 2133
1500W PSU
Cooler master EVO 212+ heat sink w push pull config
Rosewill Nighthawk 117 case
Total of 3T HDD space
and Win 8.1x64 OS...
That about cover it? Let me know if you have any other Q's on my build.
Now... About the settings. If I have not set something right it is because I maybe confused about what it is a little clarity could be a great help.
What speed am I trying to get? 4.4 or 4.5 as Restore said would be outstanding, higher if I can get it.
Help me out a little more...Where does it say anything about vcore or nb voltages? I am looking at the instructions on page 1 and still even now don't see where that is listed. I thought I did disable SVM easy enough to fix.
Not sure what a chip VID is and google let me down trying to figure it out.
Thanks for the great help so far. Hope I am not trying anyone's patience.
Last, I did get the silly thing to boot. All I had to do was take a super hot shower while the computer was shut down in the other room. Came back, turned it on, and wingo!
Let me know if there is any other info you guys need and thanks again for the help


----------



## Montana Bob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












OK, I got uploaded what I think I wanted to. Click on the pics to see comments
Thanks for looking


----------



## Montana Bob

Got sig fixed.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Maybe I don't understand what some of these things are as well as I thought I did.
> I followed exactly what I thought the instructions are including setting the DRAM voltage to 1.5...
> 
> What speed am I trying to get? 4.4 or 4.5 as Restore said would be outstanding, higher if I can get it.
> 
> Not sure what a chip VID is and google let me down trying to figure it out.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Got sig fixed.


Lets start with CPU VID and CPU/NB VID values. These values are what AMD sets as default (stock) voltages Vcore and CPU/NB voltage. Each chip is unique. These are found using HWInfo64 as mentioned before.
Here's a snip of my HWInfo64. Notice the top two values. Core #0 VID is my CPU VID and under that is my CPU/NB VID.This is for a 9590 which on default runs at 4.7GHz.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Once you know *YOUR* chips VID values than you enter these into Bios and start with these values. They will be waaay lower than what you currently have for Vcore and CPU/NB voltage thus lowering your temps a lot. Your Auto Vcore has you running close to what my chip needs for 4.7GHz and there shouldn't be much need for additional CPU/NB voltage (above VID).

You should also take the time to learn about "OffSet Voltage". This will be needed if you choose to run Q&C later on down the road.
Offset voltage in easy terms (sort of) works like this, CPU VID + 1 bump of offset (= .00625v) will equal what will be entered as Vcore. It's really isn't that bad to learn and best to start early as this can change things in Bios if you choose to change over later. Makes for more testing at that point.

Dram specs = enter ALL specs from what is written on the sticker on the Dram itself

Start OC with default values, test briefly than raise CPU multiplier .5 (1 in early stages). Re-test. If it passes, repeat and raise multiplier another .5 and test rinse and repeat till test fails using default voltages.
Always best to start at default and make very small changes. Keep good notes!
See how far you get using this info for a few, my dinner is callin









FX is very voltage sensitive and does not respond well to being over volted. Take another look at my snip above and check how little additional Vcore and CPU/NB voltage and at what freqs they run when compared to there VID values.


----------



## Montana Bob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














Be sure to check the comments in the photo.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Be sure to check the comments in the photo.
> Thanks in advance.


I did the comments thing this time but lets keep it more open so it's easier for others.


----------



## Montana Bob

Should I be stopping the stress test at 62c or should I let it ride? Don't want to melt anything.


----------



## Redwoodz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Should I be stopping the stress test at 62c or should I let it ride? Don't want to melt anything.


62c is ok,70c is max.


----------



## Montana Bob

So stuck!
The only way I can get anything like thermal stability is by lowering the voltages.
I tried setting all the voltages manually and I can't maintain any kind of non melty temps.
If I lower voltages both on the cpu and the cpu/nb I can get it up to 4221 MHZ which isn't much of an improvement.
Am I doing something wrong?
Currently have the cpu ratio set at 21 and the multiplier at 201. Holding steady at 61c after 12.5 minutes at 61c on the cpu and 64 on the socket.
Where do I go from here?


----------



## The Sandman

As mentioned you could continue, 70c is the max.

If temps are an issue with VID voltages I would look at air flow through the case and try remounting the HS (double check fan direction too)
Something is very off if you can't stress even at default VID voltages.

You mentioned having 5 "stock" 140mm case fans. Location, air direction and model please.
I've looked at your case and it should be very workable with quality fans and proper placement.
While the 212 on a 8350 isn't anything to write home about they usually hold to 4.4 maybe 4.5. Again with more than stock fans.
Which 120mm fans are on the 212? Room ambient temp?

You are running two GPUs which add heat into the picture. This makes it even more important for you to understand you'll need to exhaust the hot air out and NOT just stir it up within the case and than run it through the 212. This is usually what happens with novices and air cooling. No offense intended. For the 212 to work it'll need fresh cool air period. Those in the know add a 120mm behind or in the 5 1/4 drive bays to feed the HS. I run this as rear exhaust but for ACing it would make a good choice for the drive bay placement https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9PV3Y64440

Are you able to monitor the NB temp on that MB? I'd be curious what it reads. IR thermometer maybe?
I understand you have a fan on the backside of the mobo correct? Is there an airway through the right case cover?

Is there active cooling on the VRMs? There should be to help lower heatsoak to the CPU socket area. This usually isn't that big of a factor at 4.2GHz but you'll need it down the road anyway.


----------



## Montana Bob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> As mentioned you could continue, 70c is the max.
> 
> If temps are an issue with VID voltages I would look at air flow through the case and try remounting the HS (double check fan direction too)
> Something is very off if you can't stress even at default VID voltages.
> 
> You mentioned having 5 "stock" 140mm case fans. Location, air direction and model please.
> I've looked at your case and it should be very workable with quality fans and proper placement.
> While the 212 on a 8350 isn't anything to write home about they usually hold to 4.4 maybe 4.5. Again with more than stock fans.
> Which 120mm fans are on the 212? Room ambient temp?
> 
> You are running two GPUs which add heat into the picture. This makes it even more important for you to understand you'll need to exhaust the hot air out and NOT just stir it up within the case and than run it through the 212. This is usually what happens with novices and air cooling. No offense intended. For the 212 to work it'll need fresh cool air period. Those in the know add a 120mm behind or in the 5 1/4 drive bays to feed the HS. I run this as rear exhaust but for ACing it would make a good choice for the drive bay placement https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9PV3Y64440
> 
> Are you able to monitor the NB temp on that MB? I'd be curious what it reads. IR thermometer maybe?
> I understand you have a fan on the backside of the mobo correct? Is there an airway through the right case cover?
> 
> Is there active cooling on the VRMs? There should be to help lower heatsoak to the CPU socket area. This usually isn't that big of a factor at 4.2GHz but you'll need it down the road anyway.


Part of my confusion is exactly what can safely hit 70c? I am under the impression that the socket can reach 70c and the chipset itself can only hit 62. Is that accurate? I have remounted my 212 with new thermal paste and I also double and triple checked the air flow direction of the fans using the arrow on the fan case to ensure they are blowing in the same direction and not at each other. Maybe tonight I will take one out and just check again.
Yes I did drill holes in the side cover for fresh air to hit the back of the socket.
Yes I am a novice, IDK what I am doing while trying to keep from melting something. That's why I came here to you fine ppl!








Fan locations are two in front two on top and one in back. I turned one of the top fans around so it blows air down onto the 212. IDK the model.
Fans on the 212? um...one 4 pin and one 3 pin. I worry that having the fans turn at unequal speeds may be doing more harm than good but I see no difference in temps when I take it out. The 4 pin came with it. Ambient temp is right between 27 and 30c.
While I have two GPU'S I can only seem to ever get one working unless I am running BOINC. For what ever reason I still haven't figured out how to get anything out of my second GPU whether gaming or watching vids, the second one never shows any activity. I have the cossfirex cable installed and everything has the latest drivers.
Not sure where the VRM would even be on my mobo.


----------



## Mega Man

most believe the chip can hit 70, AOD ( amd overdrive ) says thermal margin is 72 iirc = thermal margin of 0 ......

there is no solid number ... from amd.


----------



## Montana Bob

Just for grins I decided to run prime95 with everything set to optimized defaults. The temperature never hit over 45c.
In regards to what you are telling me about heat...no one knows? I know at some point the cpu will throttle. Does heat do that or too much voltage and how do you know when it has throttled?
I am thinking I need to get it hot enough to throttle and see where that temperature is and shoot for3-5c below that?
Would a slow heat up or a faster heat up do less damage?
Maybe I haven't pushed it hard enough but not knowing everything about this scares the crap out of me. I don't have a couple hundred to go buy a new cpu, at least not this payday. I hope if I am careful enough I can figure this out


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Part of my confusion is exactly what can safely hit 70c? I am under the impression that the socket can reach 70c and the chipset itself can only hit 62. Is that accurate?
> 
> Fan locations are two in front two on top and one in back. I turned one of the top fans around so it blows air down onto the 212.
> 
> Fans on the 212? um...one 4 pin and one 3 pin. I worry that having the fans turn at unequal speeds may be doing more harm than good but I see no difference in temps when I take it out. The 4 pin came with it. Ambient temp is right between 27 and 30c.
> 
> Not sure where the VRM would even be on my mobo.


CPU Core Temp is 70 -72c max depending which info you go by.
I believe max socket temp is close to 80c but many mobos throttle before that for various reasons but all due to heat.

I'm not sure what you're referring to when you say chipset. If it's VRMs you mean I would to guess and say max would be around 65c to 75c. This is a well known contributing factor to throttling and is set in place to protect your hardware. It's best to have active cooling in place as mentioned previously.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






The VRMs are located under this fan to the left of the CPU socket.
Even the stock HS fan helps (but can get noisy). Bigger is always better in this case. Zip ties work well to attach with.

Top two fans, try removing the one closest to the rear exhaust fan and sealing the opening. It makes the front top fan useless and just pulls the air across the top/inside of the case.
Invest in a quality rear exhaust fan. You may choose to cut the existing open and replace with a wire grill http://www.performance-pcs.com/120-mm-fan-grill-black.html makes it much more effective and quieter. If the upper HDD bays are empty remove them if possible. Appears as if both front fans are buried in front of the HDDs so not much benefit from those, especially being stock/slow/ quiet/ no air moving fans









CPU HS fans, always run a matched pair. You may not see much if any difference with one fan removed due to no cool air reaching the cooler in the first place.
Thinking of the future, I would consider these but the 2150 rpm PWM version which must be out of stock. http://www.performance-pcs.com/darkside-gentle-typhoon-performance-radiator-fan-1850rpm-58cfm-black-edition.html


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Just for grins I decided to run prime95 with everything set to optimized defaults. The temperature never hit over 45c.
> In regards to what you are telling me about heat...no one knows? I know at some point the cpu will throttle. Does heat do that or too much voltage and how do you know when it has throttled?
> I am thinking I need to get it hot enough to throttle and see where that temperature is and shoot for3-5c below that?
> Would a slow heat up or a faster heat up do less damage?
> Maybe I haven't pushed it hard enough but not knowing everything about this scares the crap out of me. I don't have a couple hundred to go buy a new cpu, at least not this payday. I hope if I am careful enough I can figure this out


Defaults leave energy saving on, which throttle the chip to stay in its tdp envelope

If your scared don't do it.

Or you can read about when we have done here and in the 83xx club


----------



## Montana Bob

Update:
I can run a cpu ratio of 22 with a multiplier of 201 and hold between 71 and 68c.
Can this chip run all day all night at 71c without dramatically shortening its lifespan?
Would I be better served by reducing the multiplier to 200 so I can drop the voltage a fuzz and reduce temps by 2 or 3c?
Can I achieve the same or better results by dropping the cpu ratio and jacking up the multiplier? For instance every 5 on my multiplier is another 100 MHZ, so theoretically if I reduced my ratio by .5 and raised my multiplier to somewhere around 207 or 208 I could get a higher OC but would I have the same results with heat?
After running the small fft stress test for 10 minutes I am right at 72C and holding for temp. Too hot?
Does lowering the DRAM from say 1884 to 1644 lower any heat?
I turned one fan back around and removed the second fan from the hs, I also took the center hd bay out to get more air flow. I had to open the case to get another 3c out of it.
Can you guys help me understand the benefit and the how to of overclocking my memory?
Thanks a LOAD for helping me get this far.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Update:
> I can run a cpu ratio of 22 with a multiplier of 201 and hold between 71 and 68c.
> Can this chip run all day all night at 71c without dramatically shortening its lifespan?
> 
> Would I be better served by reducing the multiplier to 200 so I can drop the voltage a fuzz and reduce temps by 2 or 3c?
> 
> Can I achieve the same or better results by dropping the cpu ratio and jacking up the multiplier? For instance every 5 on my multiplier is another 100 MHZ, so theoretically if I reduced my ratio by .5 and raised my multiplier to somewhere around 207 or 208 I could get a higher OC but would I have the same results with heat?
> 
> After running the small fft stress test for 10 minutes I am right at 72C and holding for temp. Too hot?
> Does lowering the DRAM from say 1884 to 1644 lower any heat?
> 
> I turned one fan back around and removed the second fan from the hs, I also took the center hd bay out to get more air flow. I had to open the case to get another 3c out of it.
> 
> Can you guys help me understand the benefit and the how to of overclocking my memory?


That is for you to decide (the risk factor that is). 1c under recommended maximum is technically fine but, what if your room temp were to increase slightly? You'll have absolutely no headroom for temps. This why it's recommended to stay low to mid 60's and allow room for load spikes, ambient change and a safety margin.
Lowing the Dram Freq etc usually has little effect on CPU and Socket temps.

2 to 3c lower is not enough of a drop IMHO. I'd be looking to lower clock and continue working on stabilizing/optimizing.
I don't think you've done much optimizing yet, this comes with time and lots of patience.
Again, this is part of the reason I would lower clock now and work to completely stabilize "something" and than try raising the clock only after you find a maximum OC that is stable. And by this I mean as stable as you wish it to be in the end. 24 hr Prime95 for example.

From this lower now stable OC you can start to optimize more and test to see if you can possibly get by with any lower voltage/tweaks and maintain that stability. Or continue to raise the clock in small steps from this point which you now "know" is a stable platform to work from (and be able to return to) after you're done testing for yet another night with no positive results which happens a lot









You're asking about Ref Clock OCing, HTT OCing (FSB for Intel). This is chip dependent. Some react positively, others not so much. You'll have to test your chip to determine.
This method of OCing will still require a stable base to work from. Even more important than with a multiplier only OC. It is also a lot more complicated and time consuming but well worth the effort with larger over all gains. It has it's own learning curve and takes a while. More info here http://www.overclock.net/t/525113/phenom-ii-overclocking-guide It is an older guide for Phenom II so ignore all you read about raising the NB Freq and maintaining HT Freq at 2000MHz as this does not apply to FX (NB 2200MHz HT 2600MHz) everything applies. There is a ton of info/links so don't become overwhelmed. Read/study one area at a time till it sinks in.

Did you try temporarily blocking off that upper rear fan opening (with side cover on). A fan here creates unwanted turbulence for the rear exhaust plus renders the upper front fan useless.
You won't get far running stock case fans.

Yes we can help with memory OCing but I highly recommend getting a better grasp of general OCing and where your limits are first.
Memory OCing is always done last. At this point you'd be further ahead to keep Dram close to default till you reach a maximum OC.

Something to consider. My 9590 stock is 4.7GHz. with a VID of 1.475v. To reach my current 5117GHz with 1.488v (1.488 to1.5v in win) took me four different OC's. The last one took me just over 3 months to stabilize. Time and lots of patients my friend. In your/most case/s you can see temps are really hurting you.


----------



## Montana Bob

Thanks for the info.
I did get as stable of a platform as I can. CPU ratio 22 multiplier 200.
I had to drop my cpu voltage down to 1.33 from 1.35 to keep my heat lower
My cpu/nb voltage is 1.87 up from 1.85
I can run prime95 for 12 hours straight without going over 68 and BOINC runs at a steady 65 all day.
I did not try blocking the top fan port. The fans I have in the case are all Rosewills and they only turn at 1200RPM max.
Thinking I need to check into that water cooling unit again. That and some better case fans and I will be crawling into 5g territory I just bet
Thanks again.


----------



## Montana Bob

It crashes randomly now once every three or four days and not when under any real load. I tried upping the CPU by +1 and it had no effect. Let me know if you need screenshots.


----------



## Raskaipika

Hi friends, I'm total noob in overclock and I need your help to overclock my system, the specs. are the next:

*CPU:* AMD FX 8320E (1,188 V stock)
*Motherboard:* ASUS M5A99X EVO R2.0
*RAM:* G.Skill Trident X 8GBs (4GBs x2) 2400MHz F3-2400C10D-8GTX
*Case:* Silverstone Grandia Series GD09
*PSU:* Thermaltake Smart SE 650W 87% Efficiency Certificate
*CPU Cooler:* Cooler Master Hyper 103
*Fans:* Noctua NF-A8 FLX 80mm x2 (Rear side - extracting air)
Noctua NF-P12 120mm x2 (left side, next to the CPU and VRM Phase)
Noctua NF-P14 FLX (right side, next to the graphic card)

I've been reading the guide and I want to try the FSB overclock, maybe the FSB 300 option with RAM, HT and NB at 2400 MHz or the FSB 250 option, the CPU clock is less important for me, this PC will be a HTPC / Home server 24-7 and I want to obtain the best results from this hardware.

I've set the options from *Ai Tweaker*, *Digi+ section* and *CPU advance tab* like are described in this guide but for now, I've done nothing more for the moment, can you make the favour of guide me????

Thanks for your time and help, and sorry for my terrible english, it's not my native language.

Regards.

*EDIT:* I've been testing the FSB 250 overclock, the only thing that I've done is set manually:

FSB at 250 MHz
PCI-e at 100 MHz
HT at 2500 MHz
NB at 2500 MHz
RAM at 2000 MHz (auto timings)
Voltages: Change Offset for Manual, but I've touch nothing, all the voltages were set by the BIOS (auto).

I've test with those values at 3,20, 3,50 and 3,75 GHz with Prime95 in custom mode (6144 MB - 75%), the last value while 4 hours and there hasn't been problems, because of that, I think that my best possibility to overclock my HTPC / Home Server is find the manual values for the FSB at 250 MHz and use the turbo mode (3 GHz - 3,75 GHz) if it's possible, I prefer overclock the bandwith and let the processor clocks at stock values, or reduce them for stability, I don't know, something like 3 GHz to 3,5 GHz.

If I'm able to set the correct values for the FSB 250 option and the temps are well, maybe I can to try the FSB 300 option, but for the moment I want to try/set the values for the FSB 250 option.

One more thing, in HWinfo there are two voltages values that I don't know which BIOS values are, these values are VIN 4 and VIN 6, do you know something about those values????


----------



## sdgo

Hi, last week I change my poor FX-4100 for a FX-8370E, been ages since my last OC, (FX-4100 was at 4.5Ghz back in 2012), my mobo is GA-970A-UD3 8+2 phase units, I don't want any super OC, i'm looking for stable 4.2 or 4.3Ghz. I assume this can be done, i'm always a fan of FSB OC instead multiplier OC.
The thing is I forget the steps to archive this, can you help? I'm at work right now and be at home in few hours.
At this moment the CPU is fixed at 3.9Ghz with stock Vcore. STABLE, at 4.0Ghz it fails Prime 95 test. So I guess I find the MAX OC in stock Vcore.

Air Cooling: Cooler Master GeminII S
RAM: 2 x 4gb Kingston HyperX 1600 CL9 (modules are set 6.66 CL10)
2 X 4Gb Mushkin Silverline 1600 CL11 (modules are set 6.66 CL10)
Video: MSI GTX-1060GT OC
PSU: Cooler Master 700w
HDD: SSD Kingston

EDIT: i was able to set the CPU at 4.2Ghz with a minor 0.75 increase Vcore, will keep tryng to rise the FSB to 230, but for now, it passes Prime95 test at 72ª (Today is 34º celsius aambient)


----------



## Montana Bob

Ok, You guys helped me get 4435 out of my fx 8350 on air. Much appreciated!
Now the silly thing crashes for no apparent reason. I can run BOINC on it for a day or two and everything is fine. Then suddenly, usually when I am gaming, the thing crashes. Not under full load, temps not high, no apparent reason, just crash.
So, how do I tell what needs to be adjusted?
Thanks in advance


----------



## 1216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Ok, You guys helped me get 4435 out of my fx 8350 on air. Much appreciated!
> Now the silly thing crashes for no apparent reason. I can run BOINC on it for a day or two and everything is fine. Then suddenly, usually when I am gaming, the thing crashes. Not under full load, temps not high, no apparent reason, just crash.
> So, how do I tell what needs to be adjusted?
> Thanks in advance


Power supply degradation has led to higher ripple
My guess, anything is possible


----------



## miklkit

Something isn't as good as it used to be. How does it do in IBT AVX? Also what games does it crash in?


----------



## jp9535

Hi everyone, this is my first post here. Im having some issues with my ASUS M5A990fx R2.0 pro and fx 8320. So here is the deal. At first I had my fx at 4.8ghz 1.44v and it was stable all was good with my NHD-15. After upgrading to a gtx 1070 from a r9270x I got freezes when gaming. The only way to remedy this was to reduce the power limits of my gpu to 75% allowing me to run at 4.6 @ 1.42v (would still freeze at 4.8). or to run at stock voltage of 1.368 @ 4.4 ghz (which is stable). I tested it out with an rx 480 and gtx 1070 (both cause freezing). Asus told me its because this mobo does not support pcie 3.0 cards but I dont buy it. Anyone have any remedies, or similar issues? seems to have something to do with power draw. Also, my psu is fine, I had a 550w psu, I thought it was the issue so I upgraded to a Corsair cx650m but the issue still persists.


----------



## cssorkinman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jp9535*
> 
> Hi everyone, this is my first post here. Im having some issues with my ASUS M5A990fx R2.0 pro and fx 8320. So here is the deal. At first I had my fx at 4.8ghz 1.44v and it was stable all was good with my NHD-15. After upgrading to a gtx 1070 from a r9270x I got freezes when gaming. The only way to remedy this was to reduce the power limits of my gpu to 75% allowing me to run at 4.6 @ 1.42v (would still freeze at 4.8). or to run at stock voltage of 1.368 @ 4.4 ghz (which is stable). I tested it out with an rx 480 and gtx 1070 (both cause freezing). Asus told me its because this mobo does not support pcie 3.0 cards but I dont buy it. Anyone have any remedies, or similar issues? seems to have something to do with power draw. Also, my psu is fine, I had a 550w psu, I thought it was the issue so I upgraded to a Corsair cx650m but the issue still persists.


Could be heat, was your 270 a blower style cooler? Does the 1070 dump heat in to your case? How is the airflow around your VRM/socket?


----------



## jp9535

Hi, the 270x was the 4gb sapphire variant. It was a custom cooling solution so no blower style. It also draws more power than the 1070, thus more heat? I dont think it is the vrms because even on stock bios settings, if I raise the power limit on the 1070 I get crashes. It seems to me that if I draw more than x amounts of watts from the mobo I get freezing. I have a 6 case fans i dont think heat is the isssue.


----------



## miklkit

Try gaming for a while when running HWINFO64 and see how it does. The much more powerful GPU puts a much higher load on the CPU so something could be going over its limits.

Here I turned on HWINFO64 and the started the Witcher 3. After 40 minutes or so I bailed out and took the screenie. This method should show you where the problem is.


----------



## jp9535

Thanks for the replies. I usually leave hwinfo open when I game and I did not notice anything out of the norm. What exactly should I be looking for? I know the temps are ok. Also, When I run vcore at values such as 1.4v+ I get the freeze within 10 min of bf1 with the 1070.


----------



## jp9535

I usually game with hw info open and did not notice anything out of the norm. What should I look for? and the system freezes with the 1070 and 4.8ghz within 10 min of bf1


----------



## miklkit

Well, are the voltages nice and stable? Also, how are the VRMs doing? Are they too hot to touch?


----------



## jp9535

ya they are very stable input and output. The vcore is between 1.44 and 1.45 at 4.8. I never touched the heatsinks ill try that now.


----------



## jp9535

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jp9535*
> 
> ya they are very stable input and output. The vcore is between 1.44 and 1.45 at 4.8. I never touched the heatsinks ill try that now.


----------



## jp9535

VRM's are slightly warm. id say around 35c-40 on the heat sync.


----------



## jp9535

one thing I noticed is my 3vsb voltage looks low?


----------



## miklkit

Just guessing, but could that be 3 volt south bridge?


----------



## jp9535

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Just guessing, but could that be 3 volt south bridge?


I was thinking the same thing. Not sure what the voltage should be tho. Your 3vsb isint at 3v eithee


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Montana Bob*
> 
> Ok, You guys helped me get 4435 out of my fx 8350 on air. Much appreciated!
> Now the silly thing crashes for no apparent reason. I can run BOINC on it for a day or two and everything is fine. Then suddenly, usually when I am gaming, the thing crashes. Not under full load, temps not high, no apparent reason, just crash.
> So, how do I tell what needs to be adjusted?
> Thanks in advance


Sounds like driver


----------



## Montana Bob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Sounds like driver


Driver for what?


----------



## Mega Man

could be anything, most likely GPU


----------



## Nightwolf88

Just dropping this piece of information:

Today I was playing with my OC again (AMDFX system), I noticed something strange.

Setting CPU-NB to 2400 mhz wont boot not at 1.2v not at 1.35 even not at 1.45. Yet from yesterday I know it can handle it. It ran 2475 at 1,406v stable.
So i just put it on 2600Mhz at 1.406 and it just works..







even at 1.26v 2600mhz is stable yet 2400 is a big nono. Thats one







IMC i have!

*So it seems (at least mine) has a mhz deadzone in the memory-controller where it fails to boot.*

It appears I have a new "ECO" - hotsummerday- settings

_CPU/NB is at 2600 @ 1.262v
Memory at 2400
4.9 @ 1.51v on cpu
Power usage at full CPU load = 444 Watt. (Gaming is between 280 - 520 Watt)_


----------



## Mega Man

yes known issue with gigabytes


----------



## superstition222

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fatche*
> 
> A last thing concerning the setting LLC : my system seem to be more stable (with lower temps) with the lowest setting ("regular" on GIGABYTE board).


LLC on Gigabyte, from what I've seen, is quite a bit different than on ASUS. The Medium setting is the tightest on my UD3P 2.0 board and on a 990 Gigabyte board a reviewer tested. My brief testing with the ASUS Crosshair found that the setting one step below Extreme was the best (Ultra High, I think it was called). Anything below that had much less consistency.


----------



## fatche

Hi,

I just want to advise everyone on some inconcistency found in this guide :
I recently bought a AMD FX-4300 that i try to overclock (air) with a GIGABYTE 990XA-UD3 motherboard.

There is 2 points for which i'm disagree with the recommandations made.
If as me, you 're looking for getting the maximum performance regardless to the frequency reached i highly recommend to not disabling :

- Cool'n'Quiet - Enabled (will lower frequency of Cores in *idle* mode).
- C1E - Enhanced Halt State. Enabled
- Core C6 State : Enabled

Why ?
Because if you do some CPU-Z benchmark you will shortly understand why.

When i first read the guide, i disabled (as mentionned C1E and C6 state). At 5GHz and results obtained are roundly about :
Single Core Result : ~1320
Multi (4) Core Result : ~4600

At 4.8Ghz with C1E and C6State enabled, i got the following results :
Single Core Result : ~1400
Multi (4) Core Result : ~4800

And always at 5Ghz with C1E and C6State enabled :
Single Core Result : ~1460
Multi (4) Core Result : ~5000

A gain about 10% at the same frequency, which is hudge !!!

So to get the maximum performance you should enable these 2 settings even if you're forced to lower the CPU frequency.
I found a post whith the technical explaination of why enabling these 2 settings enhance performance but i forgot its URL...

Another thing wich is contradictory among internet overclocking posts is the CPU PLL voltage.
My own experiency shows that lowering this voltage do lower the CPU temperature (i set 2.2v instead of 2.5v stock).
Majority of users talk about increase this voltage. It might be useful for High End overclok (water cooling) but i doubt about it...

We all fight against the temperature and all processors are differents. To know exactly the limits of your, as mentionned in "official fx-8320 and fx-8350 vishera owners club" (thread 2910) : by runnning AMD overdrive (version > 4.3.1.0690) you can compute your maximal CPU socket temperature (package on GIGABYTE board) by adding current temperature and thermal margin.

My FX-4300 can boot and run well at 5.2 Ghz unless it stays under 66°C.
I use prime test with small FFT (maximum heat) to know if the temperature stay under my CPU socket tempreature threshold (automatic shutdown with HWinfo at 74°C for me) and see if errors are raised.

A last thing concerning the setting LLC : my system seem to be more stable (with lower temps) with the lowest setting ("regular" on GIGABYTE board).

There's chances that these settings are applicable on other FX processor that the FX-4300 one (and for other mainboard) and i hope it will be usefull for someone !

My config (ultra silent PC, all fans drived in silent mode) :

AMD-FX4300 at 4.8GHz (FSB=233mHz) with ARCTIC Freezer 13 cpu cooler
GIGABYTE 990XA-UD3 rev 3.0 with last bios EFh
6Go Transcend PC10700 ! (1555MHz)
Graphic card : Gigabyte Radeon HD 5750 Silent Cell 1024MB GDDR5
in a large modified A+ PC Case (where i remove the two 250mn fan and cut out the case to open the front entry) with only one ARCTIC SYS FAN


----------



## Mega Man

Sorry To be blunt. You're wrong on all points.

Esp new people to this platform should disable cnq and c1e and c6. Once you are stable you again enable them and retest. While unlikely it can cause issues.

Enabling them also causes a performance hit. I would be willing to bet you are suffering from other issues.

As to llc it varies from board to board. Esp different board manufacturer. Usually with gigabyte an increase decreases temps. Usually on Asus it really won't change.

Of course lower llc means lower temps. You can oc with no llc. Some billiards rewrite it. But many don't like to.

Now all the above said. You are posting in an Asus ocing thread


----------



## dmnclocker

I have a question for someone. A couple of my buddies said that they o.c. there cpu by undervolting. Can you receive higher o.c. this way?


----------



## Mega Man

Higher, no.

Can you oc while under volted possibly. But won't be much,


----------



## Coba

what's up guys... just checking in. ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0 AMD FX-8370 owner in the house. I just changed out my Phenom II x6 1090T...

thanks for all the good info and tips, I've been using this thread for a few weeks now and you guys have helped a lot.


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coba*
> 
> what's up guys... just checking in. ASUS M5A99FX Pro R2.0 AMD FX-8370 owner in the house. I just changed out my Phenom II x6 1090T...
> 
> thanks for all the good info and tips, I've been using this thread for a few weeks now and you guys have helped a lot.


So what is your overall perception of the cpu upgrade so far?


----------



## Coba

Quote:


> So what is your overall perception of the cpu upgrade so far?


Hi Chris,

Besides the games that the newer instructions on the newer chip let me play (free Halo 5 in Win 10) I haven't noticed any real increase performance wise ttytt. Passmark's CPU benchmark doubled though (4995 to 10155) and I was able to up my RAM speeds from 1333 to 1866... their sticker spec.

I had the 1090T comfortably OCed to 3.8 @ 1.425... she would do 4.0 @ 1.4875 but that would bust past the temp threshold Dolk said to stay at pretty quickly so,

It's too bad too bc at 4.0 I liked seeing the multi displayed as 4-20 in CPUID (giggle)

Going from 6 cores at 3.8 to 8 cores at 4.5 is bragging rights... really.

I still have the old chip... thinking about selling it, or just keeping it for backup.

What do you think? Should I build another PC with it? The kids have an i5 and a 750ti to game on so they're set... could make a home cloud something...


----------



## Coba

figure I better post up some pics...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!










edit: just bumped her to 4.6Ghz at 3.825-3.92 IBT stable at 69* socket and 54* core


----------



## chrisjames61

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coba*
> 
> Hi Chris,
> 
> Besides the games that the newer instructions on the newer chip let me play (free Halo 5 in Win 10) I haven't noticed any real increase performance wise ttytt. Passmark's CPU benchmark doubled though (4995 to 10155) and I was able to up my RAM speeds from 1333 to 1866... their sticker spec.
> 
> I had the 1090T comfortably OCed to 3.8 @ 1.425... she would do 4.0 @ 1.4875 but that would bust past the temp threshold Dolk said to stay at pretty quickly so,
> 
> It's too bad too bc at 4.0 I liked seeing the multi displayed as 4-20 in CPUID (giggle)
> 
> Going from 6 cores at 3.8 to 8 cores at 4.5 is bragging rights... really.
> 
> I still have the old chip... thinking about selling it, or just keeping it for backup.
> 
> What do you think? Should I build another PC with it? The kids have an i5 and a 750ti to game on so they're set... could make a home cloud something...


The 1090T is still a very good cpu. Especially for a general purpose machine where someone may do multiple things at once.


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

I get a "rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4" at prime, no matter the mode. I am running 233 FSB, 20 multiplier and Ultra cpu LLC and Auto CPU/NB LLC. Voltage is at offset mode and auto. I also cannot get it past 20 multiplier. Any advice? (FX 8350)


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yudhayvavhay*
> 
> I get a "rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4" at prime, no matter the mode. I am running 233 FSB, 20 multiplier and Ultra cpu LLC and Auto CPU/NB LLC. Voltage is at offset mode and auto. I also cannot get it past 20 multiplier. Any advice? (FX 8350)


Welcome to OCN!

Rounding errors are usually a sign of a lack of CPU/NB voltage, Dram voltage or a combination of the two.
The fewer values in Bios left on "auto" the better off you'll be. Asus Bios tends to over volt the CPU/NB (when left on Auto) which causes instability the same way as under volting.
On my CHV-Z, "auto" lets it run at 1.4ish. My CPU/NB VID is 1.125v and is stable at 24xxMHz with 1.2v entered into Bios.

I start with the CPU VID and the CPU/NB VID values found with HWinfo64 and test from there.

Need system info (below) and perhaps you can post (SS) of all your current bios settings (thumb drive in USB 2.0 formatted FAT32)
Give this a read when you have a few minutes http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig it'll help those trying to help you.


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Welcome to OCN!
> 
> Rounding errors are usually a sign of a lack of CPU/NB voltage, Dram voltage or a combination of the two.
> The fewer values in Bios left on "auto" the better off you'll be. Asus Bios tends to over volt the CPU/NB (when left on Auto) which causes instability the same way as under volting.
> On my CHV-Z, "auto" lets it run at 1.4ish. My CPU/NB VID is 1.125v and is stable at 24xxMHz with 1.2v entered into Bios.
> 
> I start with the CPU VID and the CPU/NB VID values found with HWinfo64 and test from there.
> 
> Need system info (below) and perhaps you can post (SS) of all your current bios settings (thumb drive in USB 2.0 formatted FAT32)
> Give this a read when you have a few minutes http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig it'll help those trying to help you.


Hi. I have done what you asked. BIOS settings are the exact same as the FSB + Turbo guide except it's 20 multiplier instead of 20.5, I left voltages at auto because it was Auto in the guide images. Also, I am pretty sure rounding errors occurred even at stock settings, so I'm not sure if my CPU is outright faulty.
This error happens in Small FFT too, albeit slower than Custom. (%75 ram usage)


----------



## The Sandman

I can't remember if anyone ever got an OC using Turbo stable or not but it goes against everything I've done so far.
For me Turbo is one of the first things I disable.
Sorry I won't be of much help while you're running a Turbo OC.

I'll stay with what I know with your rounding errors.
If you can't run it stock without errors than default Bios settings are probably to blame, not a bum chip.

If you're not aware the Dram voltage spec is rated for Intel which uses less voltage by nature. On the AMD platform it's not uncommon to have to use an additional .05v to .1 volts even for stock timings listed on the sticker on the Dram itself.


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> I can't remember if anyone ever got an OC using Turbo stable or not but it goes against everything I've done so far.
> For me Turbo is one of the first things I disable.
> Sorry I won't be of much help while you're running a Turbo OC.
> 
> I'll stay with what I know with your rounding errors.
> If you can't run it stock without errors than default Bios settings are probably to blame, not a bum chip.
> 
> If you're not aware the Dram voltage spec is rated for Intel which uses less voltage by nature. On the AMD platform it's not uncommon to have to use an additional .05v to .1 volts even for stock timings listed on the sticker on the Dram itself.


I am using a Turbo OC because, strange at it is, I can't get a stable 4.7Ghz OC even with 1.41V, but turbo can get 4.9Ghz on 2 cores and 4.7 on the rest without surpassing 1.42V(on the 4.9GHz cores)
Edit: I had the stock errors with another board, GA-UD3P. I didn't run prime at stock with this board.


----------



## Mega Man

Just to add. Sometimes the fluctuating freq can cause errors. Esp when you don't edit the pstates. Which is why most turbo ocs with work. There are ways to do it... But yea someone else would have to tell you.

I doubt you are stable asst that voltage, at that freq. But it is possible.

Sounds to me like you need more volts in general


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Just installed a replacement h80i (rubber base of the tubes became brittle after 4 yrs)

Anyway I had it OC to 4.6 for all that time and hadn't touched it. With the new one installed I had to redo the OC (which I didnt even remember how) but went through instructions on this thread and it looks good.

My question (and I know it pretty stupid) but ComputerRestore says "If your system Freezes or BSOD after increasing the CPU Ratio by one point then increase your CPU Manual Voltage by three points and run Prime95 again."

What exactly constitutes 1 point? My stock voltage is 1.3322 and my CPU runs at 4.5 perfect, all cores in the FFT test. Raise it to 4.6 and my computer BSOD before it gets to windows. What Is "3 points"? Would that be 1.36 or 1.6?

thank you

*********Resolved (I think)************

Ok after going through a bunch of these threads I've yet to see anyone with a voltage much higher than 1.4-1.5 so no way 3 points can mean 1.6 (relative to my 1.33)
So I upped it to 1.36 (and when you click enter it changes it to 1.362500 something) and then my computer booted right into windows at 4.6.

Then one core failed in FFT so I bumped up the voltage to 1.37 and its running steady at 4.6 for 15 minutes in FFT no core stops. I see it now lol


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

So after hours on end I found a stable OC at 4.7Ghz. What's really strange is that at stock voltage it ran at 4.5Ghz. At only 1.33 I was pretty ecstatic thinking I had tons of room to work with. However for me to run at a stable 4.7Ghz (and it is after 8 hours of Prime 95) it took a voltage setting of 1.47...

Now everything seems pretty sweet except for the CPU temp. Under load it runs at around 69-70c and about once per hour it touches 72-73 at least for about 20-25 seconds. My core temps however stay at 51-56c and NEVER a point above. In fact the 56 is about once an hour for about a minute and then back to 51-52-51-51-54 cycle.

Im guessing I could probably use a small ghetto rigged fan over my VRMs right? Idle my cores are 21c and CPU is 33c

Anyway any suggestions would be great. Also my H80i and attached fans are pretty much in front of the VRMs. I don't know how much space there is between the top of the VRM and the side of the H80


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> So after hours on end I found a stable OC at 4.7Ghz. What's really strange is that at stock voltage it ran at 4.5Ghz. At only 1.33 I was pretty ecstatic thinking I had tons of room to work with. However for me to run at a stable 4.7Ghz (and it is after 8 hours of Prime 95) it took a voltage setting of 1.47...
> 
> Now everything seems pretty sweet except for the CPU temp. Under load it runs at around 69-70c and about once per hour it touches 72-73 at least for about 20-25 seconds. My core temps however stay at 51-56c and NEVER a point above. In fact the 56 is about once an hour for about a minute and then back to 51-52-51-51-54 cycle.
> 
> Im guessing I could probably use a small ghetto rigged fan over my VRMs right? Idle my cores are 21c and CPU is 33c
> 
> Anyway any suggestions would be great. Also my H80i and attached fans are pretty much in front of the VRMs. I don't know how much space there is between the top of the VRM and the side of the H80


Same with mine as far as voltage. +0.075 offset lets me clock all the way to 4.6, but anything after that it takes +.15 offset (with LLC factored in that's 1.52v under full load). I can do up to 4.8 like that, but Prime load temps are crazy at those levels (46-50*C over room temp). Granted under normal usage temps. are not that high, but still. These things are pigs.


----------



## DatDirtyDawG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Melcar*
> 
> Same with mine as far as voltage. +0.075 offset lets me clock all the way to 4.6, but anything after that it takes +.15 offset (with LLC factored in that's 1.52v under full load). I can do up to 4.8 like that, but Prime load temps are crazy at those levels (46-50*C over room temp). Granted under normal usage temps. are not that high, but still. These things are pigs.


I know right? Man how they need voltage. Oh and I can go all the way down to 1.40 to run it at 4.6, it's like that last 100mhz is so ridiculously expensive. I just became obsessed lol, At the beginning of all this I thought I was going to breeze into 4.8 (









Certainly not going to even attempt 4.8 without going nuts and changing my cooler and I just don't think it would be worth it. For that I would try to hit 5+ Anyway I feel like I'm there with a 4.7 but I'm just not 100% with those CPU temps under load. Maybe I'll go down to 4.6 as I'll save so many voltage points for that 1point.

For what it's worth 4.6 from your 8320 is pretty bad ass. And on air? You got like the best chip in the bin when yours was boxed lol. Prob sent you an 8350 in the wrong box lol


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DatDirtyDawG*
> 
> I know right? Man how they need voltage. Oh and I can go all the way down to 1.40 to run it at 4.6, it's like that last gig is so ridiculously expensive. I just became obsessed lol, At the beginning of all this I thought I was going to breeze into 4.8 (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Certainly not going to even attempt 4.8 without going nuts and changing my cooler and I just don't think it would be worth it. For that I would try to hit 5+ Anyway I feel like I'm there with a 4.7 but I'm just not 100% with those CPU temps under load. Maybe I'll go down to 4.6 as I'll save so many voltage points for that 1 gig.
> 
> For what it's worth 4.6 from your 8320 is pretty bad ass. And on air? You got like the best chip in the bin when yours was boxed lol. Prob sent you an 8350 in the wrong box lol


On air. I have no AC, so room temps get to around 40*C during spring and Summer. It's killer. Had to swap the stock NH-D15 fans for a pair of TY-143s.
Yeah, 4.6 is the sweet spot for me. Pumping nearly twice the volts for 100mhz is not really worth it in benches or games. 4.8 does show gains, but I'm at a temp. wall. System shuts down once CPU temps. hit 85*C. I decided instead to OC the NB (2.6) and my RAM. RAM does 2133mhz at 1.65v, but I really don't want to push the sticks that much (faulty/failing RAM is the thing I hate the most when it comes to PCs).


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Hi. I need help again. I switched to a normal OC after my problems with the other one, but I seem to getting freezing no matter how much voltage I apply.
CPU LLC - Ultra High
CPU/NB LLC - High
CPU Current Capability - 130%
CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
CPU Power Phase Control - Extreme
CPU Power Duty Control - Extreme
CPU Power Thermal Control - 130
FSB - 200
4.9GHz
VCORE - 1.51V
DRAM V - 1.59V
Ram is running at XMP #2 profile but it passed 3 rounds of MemTest86+ so I don't think it's the one that's causing the freezes.


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yudhayvavhay*
> 
> Hi. I need help again. I switched to a normal OC after my problems with the other one, but I seem to getting freezing no matter how much voltage I apply.
> CPU LLC - Ultra High
> CPU/NB LLC - High
> CPU Current Capability - 130%
> CPU/NB Current Capability - 130%
> CPU Power Phase Control - Extreme
> CPU Power Duty Control - Extreme
> CPU Power Thermal Control - 130
> FSB - 200
> 4.9GHz
> VCORE - 1.51V
> DRAM V - 1.59V
> Ram is running at XMP #2 profile but it passed 3 rounds of MemTest86+ so I don't think it's the one that's causing the freezes.


Don't go too aggressive with the CPU LLC, I get instability if I set it above "medium."


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Don't go too aggressive with the CPU LLC, I get instability if I set it above "medium."


Actually, I instantly lose stability even with my stable OC's if I back down with CPU LLC


----------



## umeng2002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yudhayvavhay*
> 
> Actually, I instantly lose stability even with my stable OC's if I back down with CPU LLC


Then up your voltage setting (number or offset) and turn down the LLC.

In theory, adding LLC should make it more stable, but with my Asus Sabertooth, lowering the CPU voltage and increasing the LLC (to try and get the same Vdroop under heavy load) causes me to lose stability.

It might have something to do with how Asus does LLC.


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Then up your voltage setting (number or offset) and turn down the LLC.
> 
> In theory, adding LLC should make it more stable, but with my Asus Sabertooth, lowering the CPU voltage and increasing the LLC (to try and get the same Vdroop under heavy load) causes me to lose stability.
> 
> It might have something to do with how Asus does LLC.


1.51V is well over the thermal limit with Prime, I can't up the voltage, but I should be able to do 4.9 with 1.51V...


----------



## miklkit

Then back off your OC until you improve your cooling solution. That case has terrible air flow and that D15 is roasting in an oven. Click on the pics in my sig to see what my solution is.


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> Then back off your OC until you improve your cooling solution. That case has terrible air flow and that D15 is roasting in an oven. Click on the pics in my sig to see what my solution is.


My airflow is exactly like that except the second fan is on the right not the left. (I can't put it at the left because there is a exhaust fan there)


----------



## miklkit

How many case intake fans does it have? That solid front really limits how much air can get into the case so the D15 is being starved for cool air. It has 90 cfm fans on it and that case exhaust fan probably only flows 35 cfm, so the hot air is just being recirculated around inside the case causing the D15 to overheat.

Think of it as a wind tunnel with some electronics inside in order to get an idea of the air flow required to cool a 1.5+ vcore FX. Note I have 4 strong intake fans and just a big gaping hole in the back of the case so the air can get in and out of the case efficiently.


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> How many case intake fans does it have? That solid front really limits how much air can get into the case so the D15 is being starved for cool air. It has 90 cfm fans on it and that case exhaust fan probably only flows 35 cfm, so the hot air is just being recirculated around inside the case causing the D15 to overheat.
> 
> Think of it as a wind tunnel with some electronics inside in order to get an idea of the air flow required to cool a 1.5+ vcore FX. Note I have 4 strong intake fans and just a big gaping hole in the back of the case so the air can get in and out of the case efficiently.


It has 3 120mm intake and 1 140mm exhaust. Do you think if I bought a better exhaust fan, my temps would go down dramatically? (10-20C)


----------



## Mega Man

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Yudhayvavhay*
> 
> Actually, I instantly lose stability even with my stable OC's if I back down with CPU LLC
> 
> 
> 
> Then up your voltage setting (number or offset) and turn down the LLC.
> 
> In theory, adding LLC should make it more stable, but with my Asus Sabertooth, lowering the CPU voltage and increasing the LLC (to try and get the same Vdroop under heavy load) causes me to lose stability.
> 
> It might have something to do with how Asus does LLC.
Click to expand...

Could also be down volting (cnq)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yudhayvavhay*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *umeng2002*
> 
> Then up your voltage setting (number or offset) and turn down the LLC.
> 
> In theory, adding LLC should make it more stable, but with my Asus Sabertooth, lowering the CPU voltage and increasing the LLC (to try and get the same Vdroop under heavy load) causes me to lose stability.
> 
> It might have something to do with how Asus does LLC.
> 
> 
> 
> 1.51V is well over the thermal limit with Prime, I can't up the voltage, but I should be able to do 4.9 with 1.51V...
Click to expand...

Says who? Not saying they are correct or wrong


----------



## miklkit

I went that route on my way to 5 ghz. I bought a Silverstone FM121 fan rated at 110 cfm and used it as the case exhaust. It worked! Air flow through the case was greatly improved and temperatures dropped, but it was very noisy.

After I cut out the back of the case the noise level dropped and air flow increased even more, but it was still too loud. So I went with better intake fans and no exhaust fan and that is giving me the best temperature to noise ratio.

You didn't say what your actual temperatures are, but here is where I ended up at with the Silver Arrow Extreme cooler. 

This was after a lot of tweaking as it ran at voltages as high as 1.6v getting there.


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> I went that route on my way to 5 ghz. I bought a Silverstone FM121 fan rated at 110 cfm and used it as the case exhaust. It worked! Air flow through the case was greatly improved and temperatures dropped, but it was very noisy.
> 
> After I cut out the back of the case the noise level dropped and air flow increased even more, but it was still too loud. So I went with better intake fans and no exhaust fan and that is giving me the best temperature to noise ratio.
> 
> You didn't say what your actual temperatures are, but here is where I ended up at with the Silver Arrow Extreme cooler.
> 
> This was after a lot of tweaking as it ran at voltages as high as 1.6v getting there.


With 1.51V, I get (sometimes, these are spikes) 72C and generally 66-68. I am running [email protected] stable right now and getting 64C after 2 hours of very high load


----------



## Yudhayvavhay

I got 4.8GHz stable with 1.5V at Ultra High LLC but 4.9 does not get stable, at all. I even tried 1.55V


----------



## miklkit

The cooler it runs the easier it is to stabilize. It's a shame it won't stabilize with less LLC as more LLC adds more heat. The D15 is a good cooler and should perform almost as well as the Silver Arrow extreme with the main difference being the more powerful fans on the SA-E.

Your 8350 looks a lot like mine. I managed to get it to 4.8 ghz at 1.524 v after it vdrooped from 1.548 v. It generally peaked around 60C but had occasional spikes as high as 68C. While gaming it rarely went over 50C.

Have you tried setting your ram voltage to 1.6+ volts? It helped me. I'm using the Sabertooth so don't know what settings might help you.


----------



## Mega Man

Why do people think llc is the only way to overclock.

Why do people think only one llc is the way to overclock?


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mega Man*
> 
> Why do people think llc is the only way to overclock.
> 
> Why do people think only one llc is the way to overclock?


Most just follow the guide. I know I did. Anyway, lots of other options too, like just pumping your vcore until it pops.


----------



## superstition222

LLC is important for AM3 overclocking because the droop spec of AM3 is very loose.

That said, cranking LLC to a board's max setting is generally not the best approach. The key is to get the board so that droop and overshoot are both minimized. On some Gigabyte boards that means setting LLC to Medium, nothing higher or lower.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> The load-line specification for both AM3+ and FM2+ is extremely loose (1.3 mOhm & 2.1mOhm) and because of that the voltage droop by the specification is very large. To ensure that the operation parameters remain within a spec, an AM3+ part which draws 100A of current and requires 1.3000V to be fully stable must have at least 1.4300V default voltage (130mV droop @ 100A). Some of the motherboards are built to have lower Rll (< 1.3mOhm / 2.1mOhm) than the specification dictates, or the end-user might adjust it to be lower than the default value.
> 
> On AM4 the situation is significantly better, since the load-line spec. is less than half of what it was on AM3+.
> 
> For Zen the load-line appears to be (based on the existing VRM designs) significantly tighter than it was with previous AMD designs and much tighter than the Intel VR12 spec (which is already strict) specifies...


----------



## superstition222

This is another reason for LLC, provided that it doesn't cause too much overshoot:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Stilt*
> A chip with low leakage characteristics not only requires higher voltage to operate, but is also able to withstand higher voltage levels. A high leaking specimen meanwhile requires less voltage to operate, but also can be killed by the same voltage levels a lower leaking specimen has no issues running at 24/7.
> 
> Chips with high leakage characteristics draw significantly more current (at lower voltage), which puts significantly more strain on the VRM than the low leakage specimens do (even at higher voltage). High leakage specimens also run significantly hotter. In fact the temperature through the whole system will be somewhat higher due the higher current draw (increased losses).
> 
> High leaking specimen = < 1.450V (sustained Vmax)
> Low leaking specimen = < 1.525V (sustained Vmax)
> 
> Those are not official figures, however they are based on my own experience on >>200 different Piledriver CPUs. On most motherboards you will be VRM limited at or below those figures anyway.


With LLC off, the required voltage may be high enough to kill a very high leakage chip like the 9590 for a specific level of overclock. The question is whether or not any board's LLC can enable one to reach a higher overclock without overshoot becoming dangerous in terms of killing the chip. My assumption is that it's possible but that may not be accurate. At the very least, it seems that the time spent at the high voltages would be reduced with LLC.


----------



## Braindrill

I would like to thank you for your post ! I have a FX8300 on a M5A99FX and I am now at 4.7 GHZ with 1.415V (Yes I think i am lucky with my chip). My cooling is a H55 with a EK-Vardar FF5-120 (PWM 3000 RPM, don't worry it stays at 1500-1800 RPM when gaming) and With small FFT'S in prime 95 I get 68°C socket 62°C package. Prim Blend worked for 10 hours with no fails. I got a fan on the socket behind the mother board and over the VRM's.

I know surpassed 9590 with benchmarks and I7-6700K !!!! Wow. This chip can do so much ! I can't go over 4.7 Ghz since I need a bump on the Voltage and my small H55 can't hold it with that crazy fan can't hold it. I have 4 fans as intakes (2 front, 1 bottom, 1 front top), my h55 is intake in the middle top of the case and 1 exhaust in the back and 1 top back. I played with the fans many times and that is the best i could get for lower temps.


----------



## SIlva74

ok ... update

FX8370 with turbo between 4,7 and 5 Ghz / Board : ASUS Sabertooth TUF R3.0

IBTest.png 877k .png file


UEFI:

170603124934.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125000.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125012.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125018.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125029.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125050.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125100.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125140.BMP 2304k .BMP file


170603125146.BMP 2304k .BMP file


----------



## ExoTraveler

Hey all,

Newbie here. I have had the same old rig for a long time and decided to give some overclocking a whirl before I eventually build a new rig. I have base m5a97 and the 8120. I've seen some complaints about this mobo in general and I am just wondering where I should set my expectations on this? I have the hyper 212 cooler on this. I should note that there is no DIGI+ option on this board and LLC is basically on/off. Below is a cap of where I am at doing ratio 20 and cpu voltage set to 1.4. It seems stable after a short 10min test on prime95. Thoughts?


----------



## Melcar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ExoTraveler*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Newbie here. I have had the same old rig for a long time and decided to give some overclocking a whirl before I eventually build a new rig. I have base m5a97 and the 8120. I've seen some complaints about this mobo in general and I am just wondering where I should set my expectations on this? I have the hyper 212 cooler on this. I should note that there is no DIGI+ option on this board and LLC is basically on/off. Below is a cap of where I am at doing ratio 20 and cpu voltage set to 1.4. It seems stable after a short 10min test on prime95. Thoughts?


You won't get much out of that board, and if you do consider yourself lucky. 4.2GHz was the most I could do when I had that board before it died. Did not even push it that hard (I think it was +0.05v offset with no LLC or something). There are not a lot of options in the BIOS to achieve the higher overclocks and the VRMs are pretty crap.


----------



## daevy3k

Hello everyone. I'm new to this thread. I've been running an FX6300 for over a year [email protected] and now I got an FX8350.

I hoped I could go higher but I seem to be locked again at 4.5ghz. With the exact same voltage. This feels kinda strange, and it makes me think I'm doing something wrong. Possible?

My motherboard is an Asus Pro/Gaming Aura 970. Is there any way to check the VRM temps? HWMonitor and HWinfo don't seem to give me infos about vrm temps, any suggestions?

I don't think VRMs are a problem here anyway, as they feel warm and not even hot when i touch them under load.

The northbridge is quite hot though. It should be normal I believe, but I think the heatsink is something near 90c when I touch it (again no way to check temps, is this normal?). I added a 4mm fan on it just to be sure. And I lowered the NB voltage a bit. Pumping it up doesn't seem to help me with the OC tbh.

There's a thing I really want to know, I didn't read the whole thread ofc and maybe you already talked about this. I can actually boot in windows with 4.8Ghz, but when I test with Prime95 I always get errors in the last 2 cores and the same exact thing happened with my FX6300.

Is there no way to just pump up 2 or 4 cores? I tried the Turbo core trick but it doesn't actually work for me. The only thing I get with that is that just 2 cores underclock to 4.2ghz and it's not even constant, I would almost always have the CPU at turbo core frequency, and that is not enough to get stability of course. I fiddled around a lot with settings but I can't seem to get a better result with that. What bothers me is that with CnQ the CPU is actually able to have different frequencies per core, so why can't I just control it?

It would be awesome to have an FX8350 with 2 modules @4.2Ghz and 2 modules at something like 5Ghz.

Any help or suggestions will be appreciated a lot!

additional info : the cpu doesn't seem to go past 50c after an hour of prime95, and I'm using fans and water pump at 80%. LLC setting is on High.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daevy3k*
> 
> Hello everyone. I'm new to this thread. I've been running an FX6300 for over a year [email protected] and now I got an FX8350.
> 
> I hoped I could go higher but I seem to be locked again at 4.5ghz. With the exact same voltage. This feels kinda strange, and it makes me think I'm doing something wrong. Possible?
> 
> My motherboard is an Asus Pro/Gaming Aura 970. Is there any way to check the VRM temps? HWMonitor and HWinfo don't seem to give me infos about vrm temps, any suggestions?
> 
> I don't think VRMs are a problem here anyway, as they feel warm and not even hot when i touch them under load.
> 
> The northbridge is quite hot though. It should be normal I believe, but I think the heatsink is something near 90c when I touch it (again no way to check temps, is this normal?). I added a 4mm fan on it just to be sure. And I lowered the NB voltage a bit. Pumping it up doesn't seem to help me with the OC tbh.
> 
> There's a thing I really want to know, I didn't read the whole thread ofc and maybe you already talked about this. I can actually boot in windows with 4.8Ghz, but when I test with Prime95 I always get errors in the last 2 cores and the same exact thing happened with my FX6300.
> 
> Is there no way to just pump up 2 or 4 cores? I tried the Turbo core trick but it doesn't actually work for me. The only thing I get with that is that just 2 cores underclock to 4.2ghz and it's not even constant, I would almost always have the CPU at turbo core frequency, and that is not enough to get stability of course. I fiddled around a lot with settings but I can't seem to get a better result with that. What bothers me is that with CnQ the CPU is actually able to have different frequencies per core, so why can't I just control it?
> 
> It would be awesome to have an FX8350 with 2 modules @4.2Ghz and 2 modules at something like 5Ghz.
> 
> Any help or suggestions will be appreciated a lot!
> 
> additional info : the cpu doesn't seem to go past 50c after an hour of prime95, and I'm using fans and water pump at 80%. LLC setting is on High.


Please give this a read and save those trying to help you a bunch of questions http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig
I can see which mobo, cpu and that you have a pump but not enough info to help much.

If the NB is reaching 90c it could be due to a lack of air flow or if you're running dual GPUs. If this is the case I'd guess the VRMs aren't too far behind (as in getting good and warm).
Infrared thermometer works if you have one available.
90c anywhere can/will create heat soak and affect CPU Socket temps and possibly cause throttling. Add maybe the stock HS fan for the VRMs and whatever you can come up with for the backside of the mobo. My case allows for a 120 x 25mm. Zip ties will usually hold them in place. This will help with VRM and Socket temps the best.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







OCing the 8 or 9xxx series always requires a very good cooling solution, yours is not listed.
Post a few snips showing IBT AVX and HWInfo64 like this


This will help out a lot. It wouldn't hurt to post all current bios settings as well. It'll give us a starting point at least.
IBT AVX version for FX is found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
Start with maybe 10 runs set to Very High.


----------



## kanabrewski

4.715 on FX-8370
test run with both small FFT and Blend tests.

small FFT

700[/IMG]

CPUz


BIOS SCREENS from Asus 970 Pro Gaming/Aura


----------



## miklkit

You have a great cpu. Be kind to it.


----------



## kanabrewski

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You have a great cpu. Be kind to it.


Thanks! I think i did ok in the lottery on this one. Idle temps are 18-22C for cores (packages) and 30-33C for mainboard/CPU would love to get this setup to 5ghz


----------



## daevy3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> This will help out a lot. It wouldn't hurt to post all current bios settings as well. It'll give us a starting point at least.
> IBT AVX version for FX is found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> Start with maybe 10 runs set to Very High.


Hello! Thank you for your answer. Here's everything you asked for:



As you can see I only ran IBT in standard mode, because the socket temp is already to the limit with this test. This is the first stress test ever to bring me to that socket temp. Core temp is the usual one under stress.

Here are my BIOS settings :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











And here how my airflow is set up


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!








My hardware :


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CPU AMD FX8350 [email protected]
GPU Sapphire RX480 Nitro+ 4GB 1300mhz/2100mhz w/biosmod
RAM HyperX Fury [email protected] CL10
MB Asus Pro Gaming/Aura 970 AM3+
HyperX SSD w/ Windows 10
Lepa Acquachanger 120mm AIO w/ intake/exhaust fan
PSU Cooler Master RS500-ACABB1-EU

Sorry but I didn't seem to get my Signature working, I'm just bad at using forums.



This should be all.

I actually spent a lot of time tuning my bios settings, but I don't know if I'm getting everything right. Fiddling with VDDA, CPU/NB voltages and such, doesn't seem to help me get higher overclocks with less vcore. I don't know if I'm just unlucky, but I think I should be able to get the same frequency with less voltage, somehow.

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## miklkit

You will need to work on your cooling first as the temps are about as high as you want them to go.

Also, isn't the CPU/NB and HT link frequencies reversed? HT link should be higher for best video card performance.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daevy3k*
> 
> As you can see I only ran IBT in standard mode, because the socket temp is already to the limit with this test. This is the first stress test ever to bring me to that socket temp. Core temp is the usual one under stress.
> 
> I actually spent a lot of time tuning my bios settings, but I don't know if I'm getting everything right. Fiddling with VDDA, CPU/NB voltages and such, doesn't seem to help me get higher overclocks with less vcore. I don't know if I'm just unlucky, but I think I should be able to get the same frequency with less voltage, somehow.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated.


Bios doesn't appear to be too far out of line (considering the Ref Clock)

Disable ALL power saving features when testing. (Your Bios snips show different)
Here's a good read on HPC in case you're interested http://www.overclock.net/t/1318995/official-fx-8320-fx-8350-vishera-owners-club/63050#post_25627081
and http://www.overclock.net/t/1258253/how-to-put-your-rig-in-your-sig if you haven' seen it too.

Can't help but notice that not only are you running a 300MHz Ref Clock (ya buddy) but with a mere 120 AIO as well on a 8350?
Good job so far but... I'm sure you can see already (as you did mentioned it) that temps are really coming into play with the socket temp showing first with only a short run set to Standard.

I see you've added active cooling to the NB HS but the VRMs really need even more air flowing over them.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






This should help lower Socket temps a bit too. (it all causes heat soak)
Another fan behind the mobo is going to help even more. The 120 rad won't take you far in OC. I ran a 360 x 30mm rad on my 8350 CPU only loop for 4813MHz 24hr P95 stable.

If this test is the only one that created these temps, that makes me want to ask what have you tested with up to this point to verify if the 300MHz ref clock is even stable?
You'll usually find a need for additional (actual) NB voltage when going much past 260MHz or so (hint).
This is what my chip needed at 4.8GHz (16 x 300) to give you an idea


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!






Notice the difference in temps.

Add active cooling and get your temps under control, or lower OC till you have stability with more reasonable temps.
Overall, IMHO you're fighting a loosing battle with only a 120 rad but happy to help any way I can. Whatever you can do to lower temps will only help. Cooler temps requires less voltage!
I recommend lower temps before going forward even if it means a lower clock.


----------



## Kurtalicious

Hi everyone! Very first post here. I'm a complete overclocking noob, been reading and watching tons of videos. I'm looking for some advice to make the best decision with the hardware I have while achieving a "*SAFE*" mild overclock in the range of 4.2 - 4.4mhz. I've decided to not upgrade the MOBO even though it's VRMs make it weak. I'd rather upgrade to Ryzen before replacing this MOBO because of cost and performance trade off.

Here is my hardware:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



ASUS M5A97 AM3+ AMD 970 ATX
AMD FX-8350 Black Edition Vishera 8-Core 4.0 GHz (4.2 GHz Turbo)
G.SKILL Ripjaws Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3 1600
ASUS Radeon R9 380 STRIX-R9380-DC2OC-4GD5-GAMING 4GB
ARCTIC Freezer 13 CPU Cooler - Intel & AMD, 200W Cooling Capacity, 92mm PWM Fan
7 case fans including 5 x 140mm, 1 x 120mm, 1 x 80mm (cooling backside of MOBO)
COOLER MASTER CM690 II Black Steel ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
Thermaltake TR2 TRX-650M 650W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.91 Modular Active PFC Power Supply



Software:

I'm using prime95 small and blend testing. CPU-Z and Hardware Monitor to monitor temps, clockspeed, voltages, etc.

Bios photos below.

I guess my concern is CPU Manual Voltage setting. The default value for this setting is 1.3875v or something in that realm. I started with 1.4v (temps were way too high) and reduced all the way down to my current setting of 1.25v. I ran a 25 minute prime95 small test and it passed all test with temps in the ballpark of 50C. Obviously, I need to run it longer for more reliability. My final test are usually 2-4 hours long.

I guess I was concerned that my voltage was going too low possibly putting too much strain on another component (I think VRMs?).

Is there a lower limit to this setting? What voltage should I be targeting?

If you have any other recommendation on how to achieve a stable 4.2 - 4.4mhz with this hardware please feel free to share. If I left something important out please let me know and I'll include it.

Bios Settings:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## miklkit

1.25 volts @ 4.2 ghz sounds a little low but is within the normal range for FX. If it's stable, be happy. Your main limitation is that cpu cooler as it is way too small for FX. Replace it with something bigger and you will be able to go farther in your OC.


----------



## Kurtalicious

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miklkit*
> 
> 1.25 volts @ 4.2 ghz sounds a little low but is within the normal range for FX. If it's stable, be happy. Your main limitation is that cpu cooler as it is way too small for FX. Replace it with something bigger and you will be able to go farther in your OC.


Ok, great! Couple quick follow up questions.

Mostly out of curiousity, what is the lower voltage limit for the FX?

And, I'd be ok with replacing the heatsink as long as it's compatible with a Ryzen 5 1600 or 7 1700. What heatsinks would you recommend I look at with a future upgrade to Ryzen in mind?


----------



## miklkit

how low can it go? It depends on the clocks. At 1.4 ghz it might be 0.9volts.

As far as I know all of the major players either come with AM4 adapters or they can be ordered. The Noctua D14/D15 is a good choice because the center fan can be set so it blows air directly on the VRMs.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kurtalicious*
> 
> Ok, great! Couple quick follow up questions.
> 
> Mostly out of curiousity, what is the lower voltage limit for the FX?
> 
> And, I'd be ok with replacing the heatsink as long as it's compatible with a Ryzen 5 1600 or 7 1700. What heatsinks would you recommend I look at with a future upgrade to Ryzen in mind?


Lower voltage limit? Not sure what you're asking. I always start with the CPU VID value found with HWInfo64 (free).
From there you can test a downclock (lower than stock voltage) for perhaps default speed and possibly a little more.
Only one way to find out, test.

Be aware that the M5A97 only has a 4+2 phase count. If you do wish to OC a octacore you should be looking for at least 6+2 and best to go 8+2 phase count with a top tier mobo.
http://www.overclock.net/t/946407/amd-motherboards-vrm-info-database



Several of the enthusiast coolers (Noctua is one) offer mounting for both AM3 and Ryzen platform.
Or do away with temps and get one of these https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fb-asus-c6h-rgb-monoblock-nickel


----------



## TheGrayDon10

4.7ghz (235 x20)- 1.425v

2585 cpu/nb- 1.35v

htlink 2585mhz

nb voltage 1.2

sb voltage 1.1

dram 1566- 1.5v @9-9-9-24

got it to where i can game, surf, and fold safely, but freezes on IBT and OCCT. something about prime95 makes it fail immediately even at stock, so i don't use it. raising the voltages actually caused my sochet and core temps to drop 7-10c on load. ((freezes after 2 mins of testing though.)) stock voltages are 1.25v for cpu at 4.2 ghz and 1.16v for cpu/nb are 2.2ghz. will attach pics of settings later on. 47c on stock during IBT 62c with oc before the freeze. Unsure whether cpu or nb/cpu voltage is the culprit.


----------



## Melcar

If stress tests are failing then there is something wrong. Prime failing even at stock is a bit worrying too. How is the stability of your RAM? Are you certain your cpu/nb speed is stable?


----------



## TheGrayDon10

all I'm certain of it stability on stock when running IBT and OCCT. to be fair, prime95 has never been stable for me on any of my builds. usually, 1 to 3 cores would stop. but, with this one, they all stop instantly.


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGrayDon10*
> 
> all I'm certain of it stability on stock when running IBT and OCCT. to be fair, prime95 has never been stable for me on any of my builds. usually, 1 to 3 cores would stop. but, with this one, they all stop instantly.


Which version of P95 are running?
Version 27.9 works best for FX. It makes a difference.

As for IBT you should be running IBT AVX version found here http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
If by chance you run the non AVX version and pass this might give one a false sense of stability.
A note on IBT, make sure the "Results" are a positive number (not negative) it's a known issue that IBT can/will display you passed even when the Results are negative which is false.

Please post snips/pics of ALL your current bios settings, this can save a lot of questions.
Also post a snip showing HWinfo64 while running IBT AVX on "Very High" after a few passes so we can see where temps/volts are at.

I agree if you can't run P95 there is an issue.
All my OC's pass 24 hrs of P95 blend and while it can be a handful when OCing, stock should not be an issue at all.


----------



## Melcar

I think the VRM on my Sabertooth are finally giving up. There is a slight burning smell that seems to come off from that area and my overclocks are starting to fail despite low CPU and VRM temps.

Edit: Right now I'm stress testing at stock. The burning smell seems to still be there (no as apparent) but VRM temps are well below 60*C. Test hasn't failed yet however. Man, if the mobo is messed up don't know if I should bother getting an AM3+ replacement board or save up and get a Ryzen rig (no money atm so I would be without a PC till Xmas at least







).


----------



## Melcar

Well it's messed up alright. Passed stress testing, but it's actually shutting down at random. Problem is I'm not sure if it's the mobo or CPU, or PSU for that matter. I'm inclined to think it's the mobo, since the VRM area was giving off a burning smell this morning.
So don't know wether to scrap everything and invest in Ryzen (no money right now so it will take a while) or take a gamble and get a "new" AM3+ mobo (eyeing the 970 Aura).


----------



## miklkit

Ouch!

Tuff call. By cannibalizing my FX I was able to build this Ryzen rig for under $700. That's a case, motherboard, cpu, cpu cooler AM4 adaptor, and ram.

Or $120 for an AM3+ motherboard.


----------



## Evancarr

Hello everyone, a bit new to just about everything.

I've been using my PC for nothing but gaming and video editing the last five years. I had no desire to tweak or tune it till I had a graphics card crash last year and I spent an insufferable amount of time trying to figure out what was wrong.

Since then I've replaced the graphics card with a new one, got new Ram and opened the case to install new fans to get neutral air pressure.(It was negative before and is currently positive.) My rig is now about 5 years old other than the graphics card so I decided I'd try to see if there was anyway to get a bit more umph out of the system. I'm extremely new to a lot of this, I only recently opened the case and took everything out so I could fix the wires and then remove the bluetooth adapter and install a PCIe to NVMe adapater so I could get those sweet sweet NVMe sata load speeds.

My focus now is debating as to who I should go about overclocking my Fx-8350, whether it's worth experimenting on or whether or not my system was already to old to mess with the voltage and I shouldn't bother. Now that I have some experience with installing parts my plan, come December is to opt for a new mother board and look into a Ryzen CPU. Any information on what I could do with the current build to start overclocking would be appreciated.

I have the current core speed/volts listed in my rig. I should also mention my motherboard's 8pin connector at the top only has a 4-pin power connector in it currently, should I need to replace that 4 pin with an 8 pin?


----------



## wooshna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evancarr*
> 
> Hello everyone, a bit new to just about everything.
> 
> I've been using my PC for nothing but gaming and video editing the last five years. I had no desire to tweak or tune it till I had a graphics card crash last year and I spent an insufferable amount of time trying to figure out what was wrong.
> 
> Since then I've replaced the graphics card with a new one, got new Ram and opened the case to install new fans to get neutral air pressure.(It was negative before and is currently positive.) My rig is now about 5 years old other than the graphics card so I decided I'd try to see if there was anyway to get a bit more umph out of the system. I'm extremely new to a lot of this, I only recently opened the case and took everything out so I could fix the wires and then remove the bluetooth adapter and install a PCIe to NVMe adapater so I could get those sweet sweet NVMe sata load speeds.
> 
> My focus now is debating as to who I should go about overclocking my Fx-8350, whether it's worth experimenting on or whether or not my system was already to old to mess with the voltage and I shouldn't bother. Now that I have some experience with installing parts my plan, come December is to opt for a new mother board and look into a Ryzen CPU. Any information on what I could do with the current build to start overclocking would be appreciated.
> 
> I have the current core speed/volts listed in my rig. I should also mention my motherboard's 8pin connector at the top only has a 4-pin power connector in it currently, should I need to replace that 4 pin with an 8 pin?


Glad your looking to overclock that fx 8350.

1st challenge will be getting any overclock out of that motherboard. From my understanding a 4+2 power phase will over heat pretty quickly when it comes to the FX 8350. which can be solved with some vrm heatsinks and a fan or a fan blowing directly over it.

2nd i would read up on the beginning of this thread. Learn about cpu/nb voltages, load line calibration, turning off all power saving features etc..

3rd double check to see if your psu can deliver enough power to get the overclock that your looking for, from just doing a quick google search of your psu doesn't look like it would be something i would use if i was overclocking.

4th how high of an overclock are you looking for?


----------



## Evancarr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wooshna*
> 
> Glad your looking to overclock that fx 8350.
> 
> 1st challenge will be getting any overclock out of that motherboard. From my understanding a 4+2 power phase will over heat pretty quickly when it comes to the FX 8350. which can be solved with some vrm heatsinks and a fan or a fan blowing directly over it.
> 
> 2nd i would read up on the beginning of this thread. Learn about cpu/nb voltages, load line calibration, turning off all power saving features etc..
> 
> 3rd double check to see if your psu can deliver enough power to get the overclock that your looking for, from just doing a quick google search of your psu doesn't look like it would be something i would use if i was overclocking.
> 
> 4th how high of an overclock are you looking for?


On the first note, I did a quick search to figure out what power phases did. I could probably get some vrm heatsinks and install them. But I do have one fan on the side of the case blowing cool air directly in between the CPU and graphics card.

I have looked at the beginning and have set some time aside to start messing with the cpu/nb voltages. Just need to figure out what I want to do.

PSU isn't the best, but I did do some PSU calculations and I still have a good 100W to work with before I run into issues. I'm definitely planning to get an 850W or 1000W as an upgrade sicne I can also move it to the new rig after.

I'm not really sure. My CPU is currently at 4113 MHz . But I don't know what voltage it's at since the core voltage on System Interrogator keeps moving. Ideally I'd like for the CPU to be OC at around 4.3 or 4.4 ghz but I'm not sure if that's really an upgrade from where it's currently sitting.


----------



## The Sandman

Definitely go to the 8 pin connection.
If it were me I leave it as is but add the 8 pin. If you do venture into OCing (heck you're already here







) please be aware.

The board as mentioned is only 4+2 phase count (rated up to 140w)
The 8350 is rated at 125w at default. I recommend 8+2 phase count to OC (6+2 can work but has limits).
A heavily OC'd 8xxx can push 200w. My 9590 is rated at 220w default. There isn't any room here to OC.
Combine this with a very limited single 120 rad for cooling and questionable psu and it doesn't paint a very pretty picture.
I can not recommend OCing this system as is. But it is your call.

The mobo does have VRM protection and can/will throttle to help prevent damage but common sense has to come into play here.
You will need to add active cooling for the VRMs. Like this



A small OC *might* not be an issue but before attempting that I would highly recommend to run a stress test on your current setup/settings to see where temps are at.
Try maybe 10 runs of IBT AVX set to "Standard" and watch your temps very closely. This is the proper version for FX http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
I have a lot of hesitation to even running a stress test on this combination. Please use with caution and start with default settings. Some consider 10 to 20 passes set to "Very High" good enough to call "Gaming" stable. After IBT (set to max for 20 to 30 runs) I run Prime95 Blend for 24 hours. This is why I have concerns on your cooling solution.

The chip has a lot of OC potential with proper power delivery and a proper cooling solution, but bad things can happen when limits are pushed on budget components.
Please don't be offended it's truly not my intention here just saying it the way it is. Be very careful.

Truthfully, at 4.4 to 4.5 the gains are there (not great) but you really see/feel the change after 4.7 to 4.8GHz.
This usually takes a fat 240 rad or better yet a 360


----------



## Evancarr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> Definitely go to the 8 pin connection.
> If it were me I leave it as is but add the 8 pin. If you do venture into OCing (heck you're already here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) please be aware.
> 
> A small OC *might* not be an issue but before attempting that I would highly recommend to run a stress test on your current setup/settings to see where temps are at.
> Try maybe 10 runs of IBT AVX set to "Standard" and watch your temps very closely. This is the proper version for FX http://www.overclock.net/attachments/13202
> I have a lot of hesitation to even running a stress test on this combination. Please use with caution and start with default settings. Some consider 10 to 20 passes set to "Very High" good enough to call "Gaming" stable. After IBT (set to max for 20 to 30 runs) I run Prime95 Blend for 24 hours. This is why I have concerns on your cooling solution.
> 
> The chip has a lot of OC potential with proper power delivery and a proper cooling solution, but bad things can happen when limits are pushed on budget components.
> Please don't be offended it's truly not my intention here just saying it the way it is. Be very careful.


No offence taken. I did mention this rig was five years old and both the radiator and the PSU were shipped by IBuyPower. I actually had to open the rig to verify what they were. And the rad isn't even the one I had listed. I chose one that was close to mine.



This is what the default rad looks like. After reading everything you said and doing a bit of a look through myself I do agree that I can't do much of anything with the rad and PSU. I'm going to get a new PSU anyway, so I might look into a larger 240mm dual-fan radiator. Maybe something like the Corsair H100i unless you can recommend something better.

I am curious as to why you think the stress test would be dangerous with my combination. Is it a general voltage/heating concern or do you see a larger fault with the combination of parts?


----------



## The Sandman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evancarr*
> 
> No offence taken. I did mention this rig was five years old and both the radiator and the PSU were shipped by IBuyPower. I actually had to open the rig to verify what they were. And the rad isn't even the one I had listed. I chose one that was close to mine.
> 
> 
> 
> This is what the default rad looks like. After reading everything you said and doing a bit of a look through myself I do agree that I can't do much of anything with the rad and PSU. I'm going to get a new PSU anyway, so I might look into a larger 240mm dual-fan radiator. Maybe something like the Corsair H100i unless you can recommend something better.
> 
> I am curious as to why you think the stress test would be dangerous with my combination. Is it a general voltage/heating concern or do you see a larger fault with the combination of parts?


I didn't catch the mismatched component sorry (I have the same issue showing a 1800x lol) but it is a 120mm correct?
With this in mind it's fairly well known that a single 120 won't take you far at all OCing a 8xxx.
Depending on GPU, case, air flow and room ambient, temps could become an issue at default (under prolong load) on a hot summer day.

Realize when replacing the CPU HS/fan with a AIO you also remove any air flow over the VRMs. (it use to have at least some)
The pic in my previous post showing fan over the VRMs was on my CHV-Z/9590 running 5117MHz and that has both the CPU and VRM/NB under water.
Does it need it? No but I did it to show others how easy it can be to do







Zip ties work to get started.

I'm not a fan of AIOs. Too much high rpm fan noise when working/testing due to thin rads. Not enough water capacity or reliability for my liking.
Just like ACing. Research wisely and go big the first time. You'll save money and be happier in the long run. Just like the PSU and thinking of the future.

I started with a XSPC Rasa750 kit back in the day. Some here to give you an idea http://www.performance-pcs.com/brand--xspc/?p=25
One plus is the option to expand the loop over time. And don't forget about things like the increase in water flow/pressure or water capacity which all equals much better temps and a lot less noise.
Either Swiftech or EK have better AIOs. The key point, you can never have too much rad space









Reasons for my hesitation.
If you're not fighting temps from the start you will be very quickly. You'll see what I mean.
With only a mere 4+2 phase count meant more for a quad or hexacore CPU OC IMHO you're asking for issues.
With the lack of cooling you'll be adding unwanted additional voltage making the battle even tougher still.

I do however completely understand how it is 5 yrs old and a replacement is just down the road








But if it has to last that long or go without... see my point? Be careful, take baby steps and watch temps close.


----------



## wooshna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Sandman*
> 
> With this in mind it's fairly well known that a single 120 won't take you far at all OCing a 8xxx.


I have a single 120mm x 80mm monsta radiator that kept my 8350 cool








https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwjqx_aQzYzWAhXO-lQKHQiwAxEQFggpMAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.performance-pcs.com%2Falphacool-nexxxos-monsta-120-radiator.html&usg=AFQjCNH4nUzEMK2eI5immCvVYAm_W_FMNQ


----------



## mattliston

With a limited motherboard, you still have options to squeeze more performance out.

look into overclocking the northbridge. it has a minor performance impact when OC'd but it DOES show a difference.

I currently have my 8320e running at 4.8GHz, 2.6GHz NB and HT, and my 2400 ram is sitting happy with 1T command rate and slightly tighter timings. My chip does happen to be a 2017, so AMD has had plenty of time to optimize and bin the crap out of them.

It feels FAR snappier and more "grunty" than when I did a simple multi overclock to 4.8 and left NB at 2200 and HT at 2600. Placebo might bne getting to me, but I do score much better in memory benchmarks and latency tests with a higher northbridge. Firefox internet browsing feels much more fluid, and SOME games feel smoother. Some games dont care at all, they just want a running system, lol


----------



## doctorx

Overclocking fx8530. Doing a mprime test in Ubuntu. No workers died yet.. but got machine check corrected error no action required. Cpu:2.. l1 cache. What do i need to tweak to make that go away? More cpu?


----------



## umeng2002

Was it Blend or small FFT?

Probably CPU core voltage for small FFT since it meant to fit in the L2 cache.

Blend will also hammer the memory system more.


----------



## doctorx

Small ftt.. ok. Bumping up volts a couple of ticks.. testing


----------



## doctorx

I got 4.8Ghz stable at 1.418v for small fft.. however i have to go way up to 1.47v with blend. Is there a different setting that i should be tweaking? I had to back down to 4.7Ghz because v were bouncing up to 1.54v with full compensation.


----------



## Johan45

Does the Crosshair IV have any LLC settings for the CPU? Look for a Digi+ section should be in there. This setting will help stabilize the voltage under load. You'll need to trial and error to find what's best. What you want is a load voltage close to what you set in BIOS


----------



## doctorx

it has 4 settings: auto, 0%, 50% 100%. I have it on 100% right now.


----------



## Johan45

And that gives you the overshoot to 1.54V if so then try 50 %


----------



## doctorx

I have 4 sticks of 2133 gskill sticks... is there something i need to tweak since i have 4 sticks instead of 2?


----------



## Johan45

You can try bumping up the CPU_NB voltage a bit. Try 1.25V at stock speed that should help with your errors during the Blend test


----------



## doctorx

it is at 1.309v now. Should i bump it up a little more?


----------



## Johan45

Not yet what do you have the RAM voltage set to. I would guess it's 1.65V to start with you can bump that up to 1.67-1.7V . If that fails then go up to 1.35V on CPU_NB


----------



## doctorx

Currently 1.6 .. ill try 1.7 tonight.. i hope to get 4.8ghz or 4.9..


----------



## Johan45

Voltage is a curious thing when it comes to memory/IMC. Too much can be as bad as too little. You need to take it slow and test in steps.


----------



## doctorx

ok... ill try 1.65v on the ram first....


----------



## doctorx

Ok. After playing all evening... I am at. 1.7v on ram. 1.35v on cpunb ( needed to go up that high) 4.8ghz at 1.475v ... The problem is i had to go down to 800mhz on ram. 1333 or 1600 gets cpu errors. Now i didn't tweak the timings (don't know my way around there). Ideas? Going to let this run overnight.


----------



## umeng2002

You need to loosen up timings the faster you go.

With my 1600 kit, I looked at the product lineup's 1866 kit timings. I used those and bumped the DRAM voltage up two hits for good measure.


----------



## Mercanyin

*Just another FX-8350*

Hello,

Thank you for the general direction.

This is where I am at so far. Once I got to 4.5Ghz, I had failed cores. Worked on the voltages until I could get it stable.


----------



## mattliston

1.4v vcore generally isnt enough for 4.5ghz

try 1.42 and see if it helps.

you only hit 55 or 57*C, so you still have another 10+ *C to go, so have some fun pushing it a little harder. No game is gonna smack your cpu around as much as prime95, so it is okay to let it cook at or a little above 65*C if it stays stable. Just dont do any overnight stuff if you are worried about bad things happening. All AMD FX chips have a hardcoded x8 multiplier to run at if it exceeds 75 or 80*C, which I have hit plenty of times while stabilizing 5.2 or 5.3ghz all cores (8320e here). If you dont have it suddenly drop to an x8 multiplier, you are still in safe stability testing waters.


use prime95's small FFT test to isolate to core testing. it wont test northbridge hardly at all, allowing you to focus fire directly at the cpu


you are currently running your ram at 1870-ish mhz and CL11, so you shouldnt need too much ram voltage. Sometimes the FX chips run smoother if you can have ram voltage under 1.65, as higher ram voltage tends to require a higher cpu/nb voltage, and sometimes a minor increase in vcore to accommodate the extra ram power requirements (even if its only a few extra watts)

Tweaking is almost an artform, so dont lose hope if it takes quite a while. You will succeed!


----------



## Mercanyin

mattliston said:


> 1.4v vcore generally isnt enough for 4.5ghz
> 
> try 1.42 and see if it helps.
> 
> you only hit 55 or 57*C, so you still have another 10+ *C to go, so have some fun pushing it a little harder. No game is gonna smack your cpu around as much as prime95, so it is okay to let it cook at or a little above 65*C if it stays stable. Just dont do any overnight stuff if you are worried about bad things happening. All AMD FX chips have a hardcoded x8 multiplier to run at if it exceeds 75 or 80*C, which I have hit plenty of times while stabilizing 5.2 or 5.3ghz all cores (8320e here). If you dont have it suddenly drop to an x8 multiplier, you are still in safe stability testing waters.
> 
> 
> use prime95's small FFT test to isolate to core testing. it wont test northbridge hardly at all, allowing you to focus fire directly at the cpu
> 
> 
> you are currently running your ram at 1870-ish mhz and CL11, so you shouldnt need too much ram voltage. Sometimes the FX chips run smoother if you can have ram voltage under 1.65, as higher ram voltage tends to require a higher cpu/nb voltage, and sometimes a minor increase in vcore to accommodate the extra ram power requirements (even if its only a few extra watts)
> 
> Tweaking is almost an artform, so dont lose hope if it takes quite a while. You will succeed!


I am doing fairly well I think. When I took that snip I was right at 4 hours on prime95. I made it to 6 without a fault at 1.404voltage on the CPU. It went to 6 hours before I had to go do something so I stopped the test. I have the ram running at 1866 with the voltage set at 1.510, but it shows 1.494v on HWinfo. VDDA voltage I bumped to 2.525 again HWinfo shows 2.513v, CPU/NB to 1.250 and NB to 1.8125. I've been working on this for about an week now.


----------



## mattliston

6 hours of prime95, as long as it was large FFT or blend, is fantastic.

having your northbridge CHIPSET (which is default 1.1) has no purpose being over 1.2v with your clocks.

Do you mean the badly named NB 1.8v that is 1.8 by default? if so, raising this to 1.82 can solve random and seemingly untraceable freezes or reboots. 

Whenever I run 300MHZ reference clock, the NB 1.8v nearly always removes the bothersome random crap. as does the northbridge chipset to 1.175 or 1.2

I did misinterpret your post initially, as in thinking you didnt get 1.4v and 4.5ghz stable. my bad.


----------



## Johan45

mattliston said:


> 6 hours of prime95, as long as it was large FFT or blend, is fantastic.
> 
> _having your northbridge CHIPSET_ (which is default 1.1) has no purpose being over 1.2v with your clocks.
> 
> Do you mean the badly named NB 1.8v that is 1.8 by default? if so, raising this to 1.82 can solve random and seemingly untraceable freezes or reboots.
> 
> Whenever I run 300MHZ reference clock, the NB 1.8v nearly always removes the bothersome random crap. as does the northbridge chipset to 1.175 or 1.2
> 
> I did misinterpret your post initially, as in thinking you didnt get 1.4v and 4.5ghz stable. my bad.


Actually, Mercanyin had the terminology correct. The CPU_NB is not the chipset but the IMC ( internal memory controller) which is part of the CPU. It's been many years since memory control was handled by the chipset/ MCH.


----------



## mattliston

EDIT he used the term "NB", which by most, indicates the NB chipset. NOT SAFE OVER 1.3V in most circumstances! and he indicated 1.8v. I was merely trying to figure out what he meant /EDIT

on my motherboard, and most other ASUS boards, there is cpu/nb, nb/ht, nb-1.8, and nb

all serve separate purposes.

Nothing except the nb 1.8 has any business being 1.8v or higher

asus and other motherboard manufacturers have no purpose naming things so closely and expecting clear cut differences lol

VERY aware chipset has not handled memory operations in over 10 years


----------



## Kurtalicious

I recently picked up some new and used hardware. The previous owner had this cpu and mobo clocked to 4.6ghz. LLC is set to Ultra high, vcore is set to 1.3325v, cpu/nb voltage is 1.25v.

When I run prime95 small test using their profile (which I will be fine tuning/adjusting soon) the core temp exceeds 62C and I stop the test. When I run prime95 blend or custom test at 75% ram usage the core temp stays around 55C. 

I'm looking for some guidance to improve thermals. Obviously lowering the voltage or clockspeed will solve the issue. I thought the NH-U14S would be able to handle the FX-8350 at 4.6ghz. I would like to get at least 4.6 and in all actuality the higher the better. Should I be concerned about the small test temps when the blend/custom temps are what I use for 24 hour stress testing? Should I get another fan for my cooler? Should I just replace the cooler with something larger or go to water? Complete build list is below:

FX 8350 with Noctua NH-U14S (single fan)
Crosshair V Formula-Z
2x8gb GSKill DDR3 2133mhz
EVGA GTX 970 FTW+
Seasonic Ultra Prime 750W Gold 
10 case fans for adequate ventilation


----------



## The Sandman

Kurtalicious said:


> I recently picked up some new and used hardware. The previous owner had this cpu and mobo clocked to 4.6ghz. LLC is set to Ultra high, vcore is set to 1.3325v, cpu/nb voltage is 1.25v.
> 
> When I run prime95 small test using their profile (which I will be fine tuning/adjusting soon) the core temp exceeds 62C and I stop the test. When I run prime95 blend or custom test at 75% ram usage the core temp stays around 55C.
> 
> I'm looking for some guidance to improve thermals. Obviously lowering the voltage or clockspeed will solve the issue. I thought the NH-U14S would be able to handle the FX-8350 at 4.6ghz. I would like to get at least 4.6 and in all actuality the higher the better. Should I be concerned about the small test temps when the blend/custom temps are what I use for 24 hour stress testing? Should I get another fan for my cooler? Should I just replace the cooler with something larger or go to water? Complete build list is below:
> 
> FX 8350 with Noctua NH-U14S (single fan)
> Crosshair V Formula-Z
> 2x8gb GSKill DDR3 2133mhz
> EVGA GTX 970 FTW+
> Seasonic Ultra Prime 750W Gold
> 10 case fans for adequate ventilation


IMHO that cooler should handle 4.4 to 4.5GHz , maybe 4.6 depending on ambient temp.
Even a dual tower (D14 etc) may only net 4.7 to 4.8GHz.
To go above that you should consider h2o. 

One nice thing with a quality loop (not an AIO) would be you can take it with you next time you upgrade and have the freedom to add-on (VRM/NB or GPU/s?) as you go. Not happening w/AIO.
There's nothing better than playing when temps are no longer the issue. 
I won't mention how much quieter it is not having the fans running at top speed when doing work/gaming or testing for hours.

If you already have the OC bug (you're here correct?) save yourself a few bucks and cure the temp issue by starting to "invest" in a "cooling solution" right from the start.
Other wise you end up trying this cooler, and that fan, (maybe a couple of times) only to find out that after all this I could have went with h2o in the first place. 
I went for 3 years ACing and ended up with a collection of nice HS's/fans before going under water. My only regret... is why did I wait so long.

XSPC is a good place to get started. Nothing wrong with soft tubing and barbs to help keep costs down and keep things simple.
I ran my FX9590 @ 5117MHz 24 hr Prime95 stable for over 2 1/2 years this way looking like this.


----------



## Kurtalicious

The Sandman said:


> IMHO that cooler should handle 4.4 to 4.5GHz , maybe 4.6 depending on ambient temp.
> Even a dual tower (D14 etc) may only net 4.7 to 4.8GHz.
> To go above that you should consider h2o.
> 
> One nice thing with a quality loop (not an AIO) would be you can take it with you next time you upgrade and have the freedom to add-on (VRM/NB or GPU/s?) as you go. Not happening w/AIO.
> There's nothing better than playing when temps are no longer the issue.
> I won't mention how much quieter it is not having the fans running at top speed when doing work/gaming or testing for hours.
> 
> If you already have the OC bug (you're here correct?) save yourself a few bucks and cure the temp issue by starting to "invest" in a "cooling solution" right from the start.
> Other wise you end up trying this cooler, and that fan, (maybe a couple of times) only to find out that after all this I could have went with h2o in the first place.
> I went for 3 years ACing and ended up with a collection of nice HS's/fans before going under water. My only regret... is why did I wait so long.
> 
> XSPC is a good place to get started. Nothing wrong with soft tubing and barbs to help keep costs down and keep things simple.
> I ran my FX9590 @ 5117MHz 24 hr Prime95 stable for over 2 1/2 years this way looking like this.


I see that your max temp was 64.4C. This guide recommends nothing above 62C. Is that not too much?


----------



## miklkit

62C is a good recommendation as the higher the temps are the less stable it becomes but the temps can go higher without damaging anything. How high? 70C can be considered a hard cap. During stress testing I've gone as high as 68-69C with averages around 62C. 



One thing. An LLC of ultra high is for LN2 only and you will get better results with LLC set to high and higher base voltage.


----------



## The Sandman

Kurtalicious said:


> I see that your max temp was 64.4C. This guide recommends nothing above 62C. Is that not too much?


Maximum temp displayed in HWInfo is usually from a spike. You need to look at average.
Another snip of exact same test but under load just prior to shut down to show my point a bit better.
Those occasional spikes are not a concern. They happen, and last less than a few seconds.
I was hoping to show the amount of CPU/NB voltage and Vcore above where you're currently at, and the temps that can be obtained reliably.


----------



## Kurtalicious

miklkit said:


> 62C is a good recommendation as the higher the temps are the less stable it becomes but the temps can go higher without damaging anything. How high? 70C can be considered a hard cap. During stress testing I've gone as high as 68-69C with averages around 62C.
> 
> 
> 
> One thing. An LLC of ultra high is for LN2 only and you will get better results with LLC set to high and higher base voltage.


I had my suspicions about the LLC. Thanks boss!


----------



## fastleo63

I'm running the "FSB + Turbo - The Best of Both Worlds" setting with a Sabertooth 990FX without problems since a couple of years, but today I faced several freezes during a video encoding session. Tested with Prime95, same freeze. At reboot I noticed that CPU max frequency is at 4792/4909 MHz (21x). I tried to set a lower multiplier for Turbo CORE (IMHO the culprit for the freezes), but no avail. C'n'Q is on, CPU multiplier at 17x, applied a little offset to CPU voltage (+0.05V). What else can I do to try to solve? That setting is very useful for me because temperatures are very low. If I set a fixed overclock (for example 4.4GHz), my system doesn't freeze anymore, but I notice that my FX-8530 starts to get very hot...
Thanks.


----------



## diggiddi

What sort of cooling solution are you using?


----------



## fastleo63

Noctua NH-U12S in push-pull configuration (2x NF-F12 PWM fan) and a couple of other NF-P12 fans.
The air is flowing from the front to the rear of my case (Antec Sonata III).
I suspect that the multiplier issue that I'm facing is BIOS related. Unfortunately my Sabertooth is a "R1.0", with a very, very old firmware.


----------



## tfran1990

Dont know if anyone comes here often. 
i would like to chalk my OC up as a win, and maybe help someone out with my results 
Sabertooth 990FX
FX 8350 @4.5 G
H100I with noctuas in push


----------



## mattliston

If that is truly under 1.4v at 4.5ghz, you most likely are very capable of hitting 5ghz.


Id bump the vcore up to 1.4v and see what core clocks you can hit!


what are your northbridge and HT link speeds?


----------



## miklkit

Sadly it is not stable. The clue is the -1 in IBT. The number should be 3.88 or so. Or at least that is what all my stable runs showed. For some reason I can not upload anything.


----------



## casedizzy

Forgive my laziness, after 10 +/- years of coming here I finally made an account. This is my first posting and I don't know where to begin. I have fooled around with OC'ing before but haven't had any measurable success. I know my system is old, but she still has some life in her. I created my rig in my sig. I want to OC mainly for fun because I just like optimizing things. However, I am also looking forward to some marginal gains with the Oculus Rift. I know my GPU is a limiting factor but why not get what I paid for from AMD. And if all that happens is that arbitrary numbers I don't fully understand have a percentage increase, well that's cool too.

tl;dr- where do I start in this thread. I am comfortable in the BIOS and have backups of everything. I got nothing to lose.


----------



## Johan45

casedizzy said:


> tl;dr- where do I start in this thread. I am comfortable in the BIOS and have backups of everything. I got nothing to lose.


Start here https://www.overclock.net/forum/19033091-post2.html it's at the beginning of this thread, gives the quick and dirty to OC this CPU. You've got a great motherboard but your cooling is going to limit you to most likely the 4.4-4.5 range.


----------



## The Sandman

casedizzy said:


> Forgive my laziness, after 10 +/- years of coming here I finally made an account. This is my first posting and I don't know where to begin. I have fooled around with OC'ing before but haven't had any measurable success. I know my system is old, but she still has some life in her. I created my rig in my sig. I want to OC mainly for fun because I just like optimizing things. However, I am also looking forward to some marginal gains with the Oculus Rift. I know my GPU is a limiting factor but why not get what I paid for from AMD. And if all that happens is that arbitrary numbers I don't fully understand have a percentage increase, well that's cool too.
> 
> tl;dr- where do I start in this thread. I am comfortable in the BIOS and have backups of everything. I got nothing to lose.


Have you looked on the OP of this thread? It covers the basics to get you started.
As questions come up just post back.

Be sure to keep a VERY close eye on your temps. A Hyper 212 isn't going to take you very far.

Dang it, I just got ninja'd
hows it going Johan45


----------



## Johan45

The Sandman said:


> Have you looked on the OP of this thread? It covers the basics to get you started.
> As questions come up just post back.
> 
> Be sure to keep a VERY close eye on your temps. A Hyper 212 isn't going to take you very far.
> 
> Dang it, I just got ninja'd
> hows it going Johan45


Good and you?
Been really busy doing more reviews and not enough benching. Still an AMD fan and have been playing with lots of assorted cpus and boards, they've been very good to me. Planning for retirement in January and taking this on full time.


----------



## poah

what sort of coolers are people using for high overclocks. currently usng a gammaxx 400 which is ok for 4.4 but nothing higher. don't mind air or AIO. limited to 169mm high with the case and the mobo is a gigabyte 990x-sli. don't like the gigabyte app for controlling fans so other software would be nice.


----------



## papertoast

most hardcore folks are using water cooling
very few do air, and you can see why


----------



## mattliston

i got 4.8ghz on my 8320e with a hyper 212 with 2x some ebay fans, but i had spent a ton of time figuring out the cpu-vdda and core voltage combo to get voltages as low as possible while still being stable.


it needs a mix of reference clock AND multiplier to get higher clocks at a lower overall voltage.




cpu VDDA (or CPU PLL on some boards) plays a big role n voltage stability for some motherboards, and is almost always required to be above 2.5v when shooting for anything that needs over 1.45 core volts. It just does an awesome job of adding stability. It WILL add to your temperatures. So go in 0.05v steps, IE, from 2.5 to 2.55, then from 2.55 to 2.6.


BABY STEPS!!!!


----------



## miklkit

The Gammax 400 is a basic air cooler and 4.4 on it is fine. I used twin tower coolers with strong fans and enhanced case air flow which, depending on cpu, delivered stable 4.8-5ghz.


----------



## poah

was using a gammaxx 400 and just swapped to an ID cooling frostflow 280mm. 

Gammaxx was just about ok up to 4.6ghz for R15 benchmark. Can do 5ghz on the frostflow for a bench mark run of 612. will run 4.2-4.4 day to day.


----------



## mattliston

Turn that northbridge speed up!


You are giving up quite a bit of potential performance.I was able to attain over 640 r15 with my old 6300.


try cpu-nb voltage at 1.275v and go for 2400mhz to start with. prime95 large fft torture test will find instability within 30 minutes usually.


my 2013 year 6300 was only capable of 2600mhz northbridge before needing to chug down on the voltage to be stable upwards of 2700mhz


----------



## poah

mattliston said:


> Turn that northbridge speed up!
> 
> 
> You are giving up quite a bit of potential performance.I was able to attain over 640 r15 with my old 6300.
> 
> 
> try cpu-nb voltage at 1.275v and go for 2400mhz to start with. prime95 large fft torture test will find instability within 30 minutes usually.
> 
> 
> my 2013 year 6300 was only capable of 2600mhz northbridge before needing to chug down on the voltage to be stable upwards of 2700mhz



cheers, will give it a go later. overclocking this purely for R15 scores and frequency scores. Its a secondary computer I built for my boys to use.


----------



## vonss

Is there a way to overclock customizing the base clock AND the turbo states via the UEFI?


----------



## mattliston

If you have manual offset voltages available in your BIOS, you can certainly play the game of turbo plus FSB overclocking.


It is more involved, can cause more hair-pulling, but you can certainly open up a ecent jump in singlecore while maintaining good all core performance.


This method is usually best for the fx9590, as it comes with a factory base clock of 4.7, so you dont have to worry about cranking things up too much.


Heck, Id be happy if I was able to get somewhere around 215mhz FSB, as that would mean a single core jump to 5.375ghz and allcore to 5.052ghz.


I personally havent played with it, as I am at allcore 5.1ghz. Once I get off my butt and finish my water cooling setup, Ill try it out. 5.4ghz is bootable and semi-playable with 4 cores disabled, but reaches high temps (beyond 65*C) due to the voltages it wants. It doesnt durvive a stress test without a forced reboot due to package temps.


----------



## TekG

Good morning

Know that i'm out of time to make question about fx but.. need some tips.
Tuned a good oc for me, using a mix of ht link and multiplier, setted an fx 8320E to 4.05 ghz
I would like to activate now the power saving option. Except for APM that is disable, C&C, C1E and C6 are enable but i cannot perform any vcore drop during idle.
Vcore voltage and CPU/NB voltage are set to manual.

Thanks for any answer

(Asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0)


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## vonss

TekG said:


> Good morning
> 
> Know that i'm out of time to make question about fx but.. need some tips.
> Tuned a good oc for me, using a mix of ht link and multiplier, setted an fx 8320E to 4.05 ghz
> I would like to activate now the power saving option. Except for APM that is disable, C&C, C1E and C6 are enable but i cannot perform any vcore drop during idle.
> Vcore voltage and CPU/NB voltage are set to manual.
> 
> Thanks for any answer
> 
> (Asus sabertooth 990fx r2.0)


Regarding your issue, what I found out is that if you set the voltage controls in the UEFI to MANUAL mode and type a number, the voltage will be locked into that number (which is stupid if you ask me) you MUST have the voltage controls to OFFSET mode to allow the vcore to drop during idle.

As a side note, I manage to set my FX-8320e to 4.0GHZ with a + offset of 0.850v, which translates to 1.248/1.260s in Windows.
Only Turbo is disabled, everything is enabled and/our Auto, including EPU power saving with no issues.


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## TekG

vonss said:


> Regarding your issue, what I found out is that if you set the voltage controls in the UEFI to MANUAL mode and type a number, the voltage will be locked into that number (which is stupid if you ask me) you MUST have the voltage controls to OFFSET mode to allow the vcore to drop during idle.
> 
> As a side note, I manage to set my FX-8320e to 4.0GHZ with a + offset of 0.850v, which translates to 1.248/1.260s in Windows.
> Only Turbo is disabled, everything is enabled and/our Auto, including EPU power saving with no issues.


Thanks, read similar things over web, but i would like to hear a voice from this place, much more reliable than other forum cause people have know how 
I attached my setting before power saving enabling.
Now i think is better to reset to default and do other arrangements with offset. 
I don't understand "current cpu speed" and "target cpu speed"... should be the same....


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## vonss

TekG said:


> Thanks, read similar things over web, but i would like to hear a voice from this place, much more reliable than other forum cause people have know how
> I attached my setting before power saving enabling.
> Now i think is better to reset to default and do other arrangements with offset.
> I don't understand "current cpu speed" and "target cpu speed"... should be the same....


In my opinion your are doing complicating the OC in general, specially with CPU BUS frequency increase.
You could try resetting it all to defaults and just change the CPU Ratio to 18.5 and tweak the CPU voltage (remember to set it to OFFSET mode).


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## TekG

vonss said:


> In my opinion your are doing complicating the OC in general, specially with CPU BUS frequency increase.
> You could try resetting it all to defaults and just change the CPU Ratio to 18.5 and tweak the CPU voltage (remember to set it to OFFSET mode).


Right point, but read some very interesting topic found on this forum, give them a look and let me know what do you think about:

https://www.overclock.net/forum/10-...your-old-fx-give-better-game-performance.html

That's the point


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## mirzet1976

TekG said:


> Thanks, read similar things over web, but i would like to hear a voice from this place, much more reliable than other forum cause people have know how
> I attached my setting before power saving enabling.
> Now i think is better to reset to default and do other arrangements with offset.
> I don't understand "current cpu speed" and "target cpu speed"... should be the same....


You need to OC that FX to min 4.5GHz and beyond if you can cool it, from 4.5ghz and up FX begins to shine.
Add Voltage through + Offset
Enable C'n'Q + in Windows set Power plan to Balanced
HPC Mode - Enable
Tighten subtimings
OC FX through FSB
If U are to OC your RAM set DRAM Voltage 1.65V
CPU LLC - Ultra high
CPU/NB LLC - High
CPU Current Capability - 130
CPU/NB - II- -II- - 120
CPU Power Phase Control - Optimised
CPU Power Response Control - High
CPU/NB - I I - - Regular
CPU Power Thermal Control 140-150
DRAM Current Capability - 130
DRAM Voltage Frequency - 350
install a fan to blow on VRM

I hope this will help you with this, you have to find out how your FX and RAM behave. I had three different FX and none was the same.


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## ct65

Offset mode is problematic, at least in my case. In the first post the author recommends offset or manual V, I also recommend manual. No problem, my 8320 is based on a 22x multiplier (4.4GHz) at 1.392V. Under load 100% temp socket max 72 degrees C, CPU 57 degrees C.


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## Diwiak

You have to use "offset" voltage, find the sweet spot, enable CnQ - was working for me with FX6300 (Asus m5a97 EVO R2.0), just disable/dont use hibernate/sleep. 
For other bios setup use values from ASUS/FX overclock guide here at overclock.net


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## Melcar

Depends on the board and quality. Offset usually lets you keep power saving options on, so there is that too. You just need to figure out the actual stock vcore that is being applied. It will change slightly depending on the CPUs model and even revision (not to mention that the board itself may overvolt a bit).


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## Diwiak

Unlucky offset overclock not working with Ryzen anymore :-(


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## Melcar

Diwiak said:


> Unlucky offset overclock not working with Ryzen anymore :-(



Works on my Gaming K7. I think MSI does not implement working offset voltage on their boards, and probably others also have some special quirks like that.


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## Diwiak

Its MSIs B450 Tomahawk - offset voltage is shown in bios under voltage control but can not make it to work-when used, it use some strange fixed voltage value


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## TekG

mirzet1976 said:


> You need to OC that FX to min 4.5GHz and beyond if you can cool it, from 4.5ghz and up FX begins to shine.
> Add Voltage through + Offset
> Enable C'n'Q + in Windows set Power plan to Balanced
> HPC Mode - Enable
> Tighten subtimings
> OC FX through FSB
> If U are to OC your RAM set DRAM Voltage 1.65V
> CPU LLC - Ultra high
> CPU/NB LLC - High
> CPU Current Capability - 130
> CPU/NB - II- -II- - 120
> CPU Power Phase Control - Optimised
> CPU Power Response Control - High
> CPU/NB - I I - - Regular
> CPU Power Thermal Control 140-150
> DRAM Current Capability - 130
> DRAM Voltage Frequency - 350
> install a fan to blow on VRM
> 
> I hope this will help you with this, you have to find out how your FX and RAM behave. I had three different FX and none was the same.


Thank you very much!
Minding a NB HT link overclock, seems to give very interesting results in some games that's why i'm stuck at 4.05 ghz.
Got a fan on top hs of VRM, seems it's working good, temp on the Board (sabertooth r.2) are 40 & 45°C on VRM 1 & VRM 2 (HW INFO).
About ram, trying to OC stable @ 2050 mhz with 11-12-11-34 timings. 
I'm trying to have relaxed frequencies cause i prefere less heat and more problem correlated with it.
Playing only some esport at the moment and i would like to understand if some old cpu like this can still handle or they were cutted off as some site or people said in some famous site.


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## TekG

Thanks guys for help !

Anyway, in windows 10, the max frequency that the OS can see is 3.7 ghz while i manage an OC of 4.01 (according to BIOS, CPU-z and HW info 64).
Still is there any solution at this inconvenient?

Thanks


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## Melcar

TekG said:


> Thanks guys for help !
> 
> Anyway, in windows 10, the max frequency that the OS can see is 3.7 ghz while i manage an OC of 4.01 (according to BIOS, CPU-z and HW info 64).
> Still is there any solution at this inconvenient?
> 
> Thanks



Is that with a FX8320? Do you have Core Boost enabled? If you do turn it off.


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## The Sandman

TekG said:


> Thanks guys for help !
> 
> Anyway, in windows 10, the max frequency that the OS can see is 3.7 ghz while i manage an OC of 4.01 (according to BIOS, CPU-z and HW info 64).
> Still is there any solution at this inconvenient?
> 
> Thanks



Have a look below at my 2700x in Windoz 10 Task Manager. It shows *Base speed* of 3.7GHz while under load at 4.2GHz.
This is normal. It is displaying *Base speed* only.

You should see a more realistic value under *Speed *in task manager. 
Inaccuracy is due to no physical sensor to read Bclk, most mobo's use a logarithm to calculate Bclk. 
This is why (in my case) my *Speed* reads low as it's using 99.8MHz Bclk instead of actual 100MHz.

Hope this is of some help.


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## RamenRider

My onboard Lan controller stopped working after OCing my 2400hz corsair dominance. I only changed cpu frequency to 220 so 3800mhz-3900hz~ so the ram was at around 1780mhz.~ Then I set the timings to 9-9-9-24. It worked for a while like a few days but windows 10 gave me the error Windows encountered a problem and needs to restart. I cleared the bios and it still doesn't work. I can ping the device from CMD but it still is not detected in Device Manager. I tried reflashing bios to 2501 but in my ignorance I forgot to clear defaults. 

Now I'm just going to email ASUS to see if they can put out the updated BIOS version 2901 for the m5 like they did the sabertooth. Also will be washing the MOBO and replacing the northbridge/southbridge thermals while I wait.


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## mattliston

does the system boot at all into bios? if so, try to flash it again.


Although clearing back to defaults is recommended prior to bios flashing, I have gotten away with forgetting that step several times over the years. Generally had to move to a single stick of ram, sometimes had to reseat the cpu, but eventually was able to boot to bios and flash once again to settle any corrupted stuff.




If you can make it into the bios, look for the network options, such as boot from network device. If it shows up, the device is likely just fine, and windows 10 simply needs the driver to be deleted and re installed. Its a common early windows 10 thing, though odd it would show up after so many updates the last few years.


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## McFab

Hey guys this is a wonderful guide, I am currently stable @ 4.6ghz core clock @ 1.35v on the FX9590 with the Asus Crosshair V Formula Z, im pretty satisfied, one thing I'm sad about all my power saving options are off in bios cause if enabled then freezing happens 🤔, is what it is I guess


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## umeng2002

Turn off any spread spectrum options. Use voltage offset mode to preserve throttling and voltage throttling.


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## The Sandman

McFab said:


> Hey guys this is a wonderful guide, I am currently stable @ 4.6ghz core clock @ 1.35v on the FX9590 with the Asus Crosshair V Formula Z, im pretty satisfied, one thing I'm sad about all my power saving options are off in bios cause if enabled then freezing happens 🤔, is what it is I guess



As umeng2002 mentioned using "OffSet Voltage mode" allows power savings features if you're not aware.

Freezing is usually a sign of a lack of memory voltage and/or CPU/NB voltage.
How much (and what with) testing have you done? 1.35v seems low for a 9590. Mine has a VID of 1.475v which makes me wonder how stable you are at present.

I had good luck with my 9590/CHV-Z (5117MHz 24 hr P95 stable @ 1.488v) but I also could not run power saving features at this clock as I would loose stability.
I do have some old Bios snips if you're at all interested hit me up.


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## Cluts

Hello there! How're you guys? Been trying to follow this guide but I can't get any working Results....
My Specs are:

FX-9370 Eight Core (Vishera) as CPU - https://www.amd.com/es/products/cpu/fx-9370
M5A99FX PRO R2.0 as Motherboard - M5A99FX PRO R2.0 - Soporte
Cooling Solution - Corsair H100i - Sistema de enfriamiento líquido de alto rendimiento para CPU Hydro Series™ H100i
Thermal Compound - Artic MX-4
Sentey 1050W 80 Plus Gold As Power Supply - Sentey :: GSP 1050 Watts GSP1050-HM
Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB as GPU - DUAL-GTX1070-8G
Gskill Ripjaws 4x4GB1600Mhz = 16GB in total as RAM - Technical-Support-G.SKILL International Enterprise Co., Ltd.

I can't get Prime95 to run Small FFT even in stock values. I still getting freeze no matter what option I pick on BIOS.
I've reached 5.0Ghz and be able to turn on Windows and use Explorer. But I can't get to perform any Prime95 Torture Test...

I tried all of the options, stock values and changing CPU Ratio & Manual Core Voltage, Changed values in Digi + Power Control for 5.0Ghz OCs, Tried the M5A97 notes also... Can anyone help me with these? I'd be glad to listen to you


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## Cluts

Cluts said:


> Hello there! How're you guys? Been trying to follow this guide but I can't get any working Results....
> My Specs are:
> 
> FX-9370 Eight Core (Vishera) as CPU
> M5A99FX PRO R2.0 as Motherboard
> Sentey 1050W 80 Plus Gold As Power Supply
> Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB as GPU
> Gskill Ripjaws 4x4GB1600Mhz = 16GB in total as RAM
> 
> I can't get Prime95 to run Small FFT even in stock values. I still getting freeze no matter what option I pick on BIOS.
> I've reached 5.0Ghz and be able to turn on Windows and use Explorer. But I can't get to perform any Prime95 Torture Test...
> 
> I tried all of the options, stock values and changing CPU Ratio & Manual Core Voltage, Changed values in Digi + Power Control for 5.0Ghz OCs, Tried the M5A97 notes also... Can anyone help me with these? I'd be glad to listen to you


This is where I'm at right now. I can play GTA V FiveM, Apex Legends, League of Legends. But I can't achieve 1 complete Small FFT Torture Test in Prime95... I've been trying from 1.35V to 1.6V on CPU Voltage


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## The Sandman

Cluts said:


> Hello there! How're you guys? Been trying to follow this guide but I can't get any working Results....
> My Specs are:
> 
> FX-9370 Eight Core (Vishera) as CPU - https://www.amd.com/es/products/cpu/fx-9370
> M5A99FX PRO R2.0 as Motherboard - M5A99FX PRO R2.0 - Soporte
> Sentey 1050W 80 Plus Gold As Power Supply - Sentey :: GSP 1050 Watts GSP1050-HM
> Nvidia GTX 1070 8GB as GPU - DUAL-GTX1070-8G
> Gskill Ripjaws 4x4GB1600Mhz = 16GB in total as RAM - Technical-Support-G.SKILL International Enterprise Co., Ltd.
> 
> I can't get Prime95 to run Small FFT even in stock values. I still getting freeze no matter what option I pick on BIOS.
> I've reached 5.0Ghz and be able to turn on Windows and use Explorer. But I can't get to perform any Prime95 Torture Test...
> 
> I tried all of the options, stock values and changing CPU Ratio & Manual Core Voltage, Changed values in Digi + Power Control for 5.0Ghz OCs, Tried the M5A97 notes also... Can anyone help me with these? I'd be glad to listen to you


I'd be happy to share what I know
I see you're new here and I have no idea of your OCing method/experience so don't be offended.

What do you have for a cooling solution? You never mentioned what temps you're seeing under load.
Any active cooling on the VRM's? You'll need some.

I don't mean to belittle anyone but if you are new to OCing I'd strongly suggest giving this a read Phenom II Overclocking Guide 
Read only one section at a time till it sinks in a bit and don't get intimidated. We were all new at one point.
This thread will save me a boat load of text/explaining for a real good method for OCing your FX9570 (rules/terms are the same the Phenom)

I spent over 6 months stabilizing my 9590 at 5117MHz 24 hr Prime95 stable (still have it if anyone is interested PM me)
The most important thing I learned with my 9590 was to start low and make VERY small increases than retest. Increase voltage only as a last resort and in very small amounts.
Start at stock using VID value manually entered in Bios along with as many values as you know all set to default values but manually entered and see how far it will clock with a simple multiplier bump.
Keep good notes on what you've tried/worked/failed and also note the "time till failure" this is how you can see if things are improving or not.

Temps will be your worst enemy and probably your limiting factor unless you're running a custom loop.
DL HWInfo64 to monitor temps etc.
Here's another little tid bit you may find helpful https://images-eu.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/A1GNCeR7T2S.pdf 

When testing FX with P95 best to run version 28.1.
I use IBT (IntelBurnTest) before P95 as it finds the simple instabilities much sooner than P95.

Need more help just give a shout!
This should give you something to shoot for, 24 hr P95 stable at 5117MHz


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## Cluts

@The Sandman Hey there! Thnx for your response, and yeah. I'm new to this as i'm willing to Upgrade into a Ryzen 7 5800x but I would like to get the most possible power for this FX-9370 Vishera.
And yes, I totally forgot to specify my Cooling Solution...That's it's pretty the most important Hardware here... xD
I'm actually using Corsair H100i - Sistema de enfriamiento líquido de alto rendimiento para CPU Hydro Series™ H100i and Thermal Compound - Artic MX-4
I downloaded HWinfo, but crashes my PC when open it. I don't know if the version I'm using is broken or what... I downloaded latest HWinfo and Prime95 from official sites just this week!
I'll go ahead and read the posts you've mention to me to see if I can get some answers, if u're willing to help me personally, i'd be glad to have a video-chat conversation where I could show you my BIOS settings. I've tried all settings that the owner of the post mentioned but couldn't get stability at Prime95 V30,6 (I think)
Sorry for my english btw, I'm from Argentina! Hope to chat whit you soon!


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## The Sandman

Cluts said:


> @The Sandman Hey there! Thnx for your response, and yeah. I'm new to this as i'm willing to Upgrade into a Ryzen 7 5800x but I would like to get the most possible power for this FX-9370 Vishera.
> And yes, I totally forgot to specify my Cooling Solution...That's it's pretty the most important Hardware here... xD
> I'm actually using Corsair H100i - Sistema de enfriamiento líquido de alto rendimiento para CPU Hydro Series™ H100i and Thermal Compound - Artic MX-4
> I downloaded HWinfo, but crashes my PC when open it. I don't know if the version I'm using is broken or what... I downloaded latest HWinfo and Prime95 from official sites just this week!
> I'll go ahead and read the posts you've mention to me to see if I can get some answers, if u're willing to help me personally, i'd be glad to have a video-chat conversation where I could show you my BIOS settings. I've tried all settings that the owner of the post mentioned but couldn't get stability at Prime95 V30,6 (I think)
> Sorry for my english btw, I'm from Argentina! Hope to chat whit you soon!


Try disabling ICUE software as I've read it can cause conflicts of some sort iirc. Not 100% sure the issues are with HWInfo but I believe it was.
If it installs than try to re-enable.

Testing w/P95 on FX requires the old version 28.1.
I tried a quick search and no joy so if you want it i attached it below.

Your in luck, I also have a M5A99FX Pro R2.0 and know the Bios lol.
Also do what ever you can to improve air flow through the case and also consider adding active cooling over the VRM's
Even getto setups will help a lot


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## mattliston

Skip P95 for testing. Utilize intel burn test using 1 sticks worth of ram for quick testing of 50 runs, then 1/2 ram for 25 runs (will take a LONG time).

Its been awhile since Ive messed with AMD FX, but I seem to recall Prime95 being a nightmare.

Ive had 100% bone stock 9590 chips fail prime95, even with 1.55 volts tossed down its throat from my Asus Crosshair V Formula Z with custom BIOS and water cooling.


Best scenario for FX cpu testing is core temps never going above 60*C, CPU-NB set at proper voltage (roughly 1.35v at 2400mhz is a decent baseline), HT set to same as northbridge or lower, and having good eyes for the actual core voltage behavior.

You want the core voltage to drop with load jsut a bit. You want your idle voltage to be high, to cover those random usage spikes of windows and other programs, but while it dips under load, you want it to hold nice and strong!! If it idles at 1.6 volts, but flat lines at 1.525v and holds super strong, that is a better base than spiking upwards all teh time.


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