# Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Thread



## RavageTheEarth

Welcome to the Gigabyte Aorus & Xtreme 1080 Ti owners club. Come on in. Let me grab you coat. Post your pics, results, tests, whatever you want. Just be nice to each other









Variants:

AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11G
Model: GV-N108TAORUS-11GD




Spoiler: Specs




Powered by GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti
Integrated with 11GB GDDR5X 352-bit memory interface
WINDFORCE Stack 3X 100mm Fan Cooling System
Advanced Copper Back Plate Cooling
AORUS VR Link provides the best VR experience
RGB fusion - 16.8M customizable color lighting
Stylish Metal Back Plate
Built for Extreme Overclocking 12+2 Power Phases
*Core Clock*
Boost: 1708 MHz / Base: 1594 MHz in OC mode
Boost: 1683 MHz / Base: 1569 MHz in Gaming mode

*Memory Clock:*
11010 MHz

*Memory Size & Type:*
11 GB GDDR5X

*Memory Bus:*
352 bit

*Card Bus:*
PCI-E 3.0 x 16

*Output:*
Dual-link DVI-D *1
HDMI-2.0b*3 (Max Resolution: 4096x2160 @60 Hz)
Display Port-1.4 *3 (Max Resolution: 7680x4320 @60 Hz)
(Standard mode: Dual-link DVI-D*1, DP1.4*3, HDMI 2.0b*1)
(VR mode: DP*3, HDMI*3)

*Digital max resolution:*
7680x4320

*Multi-View:*
4

*Card size:*
H=55 L=293 W=142 mm

*PCB Form:*
ATX

*DirectX:*
DirectX 12 API feature level 12_1

*OpenGL:*
4.5

*Recommended PSU:*
600w

*Power Connectors:*
8 pin*2



AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edtion
GV-N108TAORUS X-11GD





Spoiler: Specs




Powered by GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti
Integrated with 11GB GDDR5X 352-bit memory interface
WINDFORCE Stack 3X 100mm Fan Cooling System
Advanced Copper Back Plate Cooling
AORUS VR Link provides the best VR experience
RGB fusion - 16.8M customizable color lighting
Metal Back Plate with RGB AORUS LOGO Illumination
Built for Extreme Overclocking 12+2 Power Phases
4 Years Warranty (Online registration required)
*Core Clock:*
Boost: 1746 MHz / Base: 1632 MHz in OC mode
Boost: 1721 MHz / Base: 1607 MHz in Gaming mode

*Memory Clock:*
OC mode: 11448 MHz
Gaming mode: 11232 MHz

*Memory Size & Type:*
11 GB GDDR5X

*Memory Bus:*
352 bit

*Card Bus:*
PCI-E 3.0 x 16

*Output:*
Dual-link DVI-D *1
HDMI-2.0b*3 (Max Resolution: 4096x2160 @60 Hz)
Display Port-1.4 *3 (Max Resolution: 7680x4320 @60 Hz)
(VR mode: DP*3, HDMI*3)
(Standard mode: Dual-link DVI-D*1, DP1.4*3, HDMI 2.0b*1)

*Digital max resolution:*
7680x4320

*Multi-View:*
4

*Card size:*
H=55 L=293 W=142 mm

*PCB Form:*
ATX

*DirectX:*
DirectX 12 API feature level 12_1

*OpenGL:*
4.5

*Recommended PSU:*
600w

*Power Connectors:*
8 pin*2



If you would like to join the club just copy and paste this into your signature!

Code:



Code:


[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/][COLOR=336600][SIZE=6] :clock: [Gigabyte Aorus 1080 Ti Owner's Club] :clock: [/URL]

For all you watercoolers out there, EK has plexi and acetal blocks, both only available in Nickel plated copper this time around. Only the 1080 Ti FE's are getting copper variants sadly.

*Blocks*

Acetal+Nickel

Plexi-Nickel

*Backplates*

Black Backplate

Nickel Backplate




***************************************************************************

*Troubleshooting:*

*Q: "My computer is turning off or restarting while playing games!!!!"*
A: It is highly recommended to use a PSU with a single 12v rail. If you are already stuck with a PSU with multiple rails then I would look up your PSU and connect each power cable to it's own individual rail instead. If the problem still persists, buy a new PSU with a single 12v rail.

If the above isn't applicable to you, make sure your PSU has enough power for your build. These cards can draw up to 375w with a maxed out power slider.

*Q: My benchmark scores seem lower than yours!*
A: Try out these tweaks in the Nvidia Control Panel to help raise your score. This post is also great for people wanting to learn how to do a curve in MSI Afterburner.
Higher Benchmarks and Curve Tutorial

*Q: Should I use the Aorus software and just enable OC mode?*
A: HELL NO. There are many reports of instability using OC mode and the aorus software in general isn't that great. If you want to change your LED setup then download the aorus software, change and save it, and then uninstall the aorus software before install Afterburner. The two programs could conflict with one another. Download MSI Afterburner beta 6 or older so that voltage control is enabled out of the box. Use the link provided above to learn how to do a voltage curve. It's really easy once you get a grasp on it., Just a simple graph that you move the dots. The link below is Afterburner Beta 6.

MSI Afterburner Beta 6 Link


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## JustinZanyo

I just bought it on newegg. Gonna have it in 3 days


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## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JustinZanyo*
> 
> I just bought it on newegg. Gonna have it in 3 days


Nice! I'm leaving for a one week vacation today so I should have a new shiny card waiting for me when I get home.


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## c0ld

Do I qualify?









I got mine yesterday with complimentary free swag directly from Gigabyte. Runs everything 60+fps smooth at 3440x1440 with all sliders to ultra/max. Super quiet card im loving it hovers around 72c with 58% fan speed at a 2GHz clock, only maxed out the Power Slider to 125% havent tinker with it on OC'ing.


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## KJZ87

Sniped the Xtreme on Newegg this afternoon. I am excited. I have been waiting for months without a gpu.


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## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Do I qualify?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine yesterday with complimentary free swag directly from Gigabyte. Runs everything 60+fps smooth at 3440x1440 with all sliders to ultra/max. Super quiet card im loving it hovers around 72c with 58% fan speed at a 2GHz clock, only maxed out the Power Slider to 125% havent tinker with it on OC'ing.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Awesome! That's the non-Xtreme version right? That's what I'm getting. Those are pretty decent temps for that fan speed considering I have heard a lot about bad temps. I'm going to be running mine at 100% fan speed until the waterblock is released for it.

How'd you get all that free swag?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KJZ87*
> 
> Sniped the Xtreme on Newegg this afternoon. I am excited. I have been waiting for months without a gpu.


Nice! I would have grabbed the Xtreme if it was in stock when I went to buy. Be sure to post some pics when you get it!


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## nonnac7

What's going on guys. So I got my Xtreme in today and have been doing some benching and the card runs good, but something is amiss.

So when comparing my GPUZ info to other 1080ti's and even Titan XP's I noticed that my texture fillrate is only at 360 GTexel/s, where the other cards are all nearly 100GTexel/s higher. See http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/4150#post_25992194 for comparison. I understand he is at 2100mhz, unless his gpuz is bugged and the texture fillrate is messed up, I'm failing to see how our cards would be so much lower in fillrate.

Can I get some of you guys to post your gpu-z so I can compare to see if this is an issue with just my Xtreme or if it is like this for others.


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## Newbstick

Joined the Club today as well, got the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G


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## RavageTheEarth

Congrats on your new GPUs everyone! My card was delivered today but I'm vacationing until Wednesday so I'm gong to have to wait until them to play with it! Luckily I had someone to grab it and put it inside for me.


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## Goloith

Make sure to upload your BIOS to Tech Powerup or provide a link here for download or creater another thread.


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## ajresendez

so is anyone having stability issues? I got mine a few days ago and it cant do any of the advertised one click overclocks. Tried doing it manually but that was a no go either, I RMA'd it already going to give gigabyte another shot but I have to say based of reddit a there are quite a number of these cards that just aren't performing. I have the auros edition not the extreme just the regular auros.


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## prelude514

So I just noticed there was an official Aorus thread. Have basically only been F5ing the official 1080 Ti thread for a week. Traded in my MSI FE today for a non Extreme version since there weren't any left. Where do I pick up my membership card?









I didn't realize that the non Extreme only allowed +125% power limit VS 150% for the Extreme. I wasn't having none of that, so cross post from the official Ti thread for my Aorus bros:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prelude514*
> 
> Just flashed the Extreme F4 beta BIOS from here without issue: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl
> 
> But power limit was still 125% and default memory speed was still non-Extreme.
> 
> So I flashed this guy: https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/190959/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-170331
> 
> Following the method here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627212/how-to-flash-strix-1080-ti-bios-in-an-1080-ti-fe
> 
> And my card is now an Extreme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> +150 now available in AB, and default memory clock is now 1404MHz instead of 1376MHz.
> 
> Time to beat this card up a bit!


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## prelude514

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajresendez*
> 
> so is anyone having stability issues? I got mine a few days ago and it cant do any of the advertised one click overclocks. Tried doing it manually but that was a no go either, I RMA'd it already going to give gigabyte another shot but I have to say based of reddit a there are quite a number of these cards that just aren't performing. I have the auros edition not the extreme just the regular auros.


Well that really sucks.







Sorry to hear. I'm not one to bother trying the one click OCs, prefer to do that myself manually. Right now I just finished testing 2000MHz @ 1.031v with Witcher 3, seemed perfectly stable. Now that I've upgraded my card to 150% power limit the real fun begins!

Hope your card gets sorted out quickly. Maybe try OCing manually with afterburner?


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## ajresendez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prelude514*
> 
> Well that really sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry to hear. I'm not one to bother trying the one click OCs, prefer to do that myself manually. Right now I just finished testing 2000MHz @ 1.031v with Witcher 3, seemed perfectly stable. Now that I've upgraded my card to 150% power limit the real fun begins!
> 
> Hope your card gets sorted out quickly. Maybe try OCing manually with afterburner?


Yeah I tried manually getting the advertised clocks and still nothing.


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## StarHunter64

I have the Xtreme and dont have the option for 150% power limit just 125%.... but I clearly have the Xtreme with the Xtreme box, bigger copper plate, Xtreme default clocks, and LEDs....

Edit - Seems you may need the F4 beta bios to get the 150% power limit.


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## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prelude514*
> 
> So I just noticed there was an official Aorus thread. Have basically only been F5ing the official 1080 Ti thread for a week. Traded in my MSI FE today for a non Extreme version since there weren't any left. Where do I pick up my membership card?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize that the non Extreme only allowed +125% power limit VS 150% for the Extreme. I wasn't having none of that, so cross post from the official Ti thread for my Aorus bros:


Fantastic post +REP. Looks like I'm doing exactly this with my card then! Glad you had success!


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## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prelude514*
> 
> So I just noticed there was an official Aorus thread. Have basically only been F5ing the official 1080 Ti thread for a week. Traded in my MSI FE today for a non Extreme version since there weren't any left. Where do I pick up my membership card?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize that the non Extreme only allowed +125% power limit VS 150% for the Extreme. I wasn't having none of that, so cross post from the official Ti thread for my Aorus bros:


I have the regular Aorus too. I'm confused which BIOS gives you the 150% and the memory OC? The one on the gigabyte website or the techpowerup?

Whats the max boost clock with no OC and just putting the Power limit to 150%?

Mine hits 1.97GHz-2.0GHz with just the power to 125%, upped to core +15 to get steady 2.0GHz in games.


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## Qba73

Updated to the f5 beta bios and got the 150 limit

Not much testing yet but hitting 2075 solid @69c 150 power limit, and 25 uptick on MHz slider, though I never see it hit higher than 128 pl so may dial it back to 130. On mem solid 500+ no issues.


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## JustinZanyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prelude514*
> 
> So I just noticed there was an official Aorus thread. Have basically only been F5ing the official 1080 Ti thread for a week. Traded in my MSI FE today for a non Extreme version since there weren't any left. Where do I pick up my membership card?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I didn't realize that the non Extreme only allowed +125% power limit VS 150% for the Extreme. I wasn't having none of that, so cross post from the official Ti thread for my Aorus bros:


Hi, I just flashed the F4 BIOS. I unlocked the 150% TDP but I lost the fan stop control on my Aorus software


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## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> Updated to the f5 beta bios and got the 150 limit
> 
> Not much testing yet but hitting 2075 solid @69c 150 power limit, and 25 uptick on MHz slider, though I never see it hit higher than 128 pl so may dial it back to 130. On mem solid 500+ no issues.


Do you have a link to the F5 beta bios? I thought they only had F4 beta out.

Yeah my xtreme is stable at 2075 on the core as well, ranging from 2075 to 2050 based on if my card hits 70+ or not. I live in TX so ambient is at like 76F in my house, which causes it to run warmer than others. Extremely happy with it though, been playing Witcher 3 at 90+fps 1440p everything maxed out
















I found that if the card is at 2088 then it has like a 25% chance to crash on heaven or other stress testing.


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## prelude514

Sorry, can't answer posts individually right now as I'm in a rush. From what I've gathered, some BIOSes have stock 250w TDP and +50% available, while others have stock 300w with +25%. What reallyt matters, is that everyone no matter if Extreme or not has 375w available if the slider is maxed out.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/4690#post_26003001

Props to ThingyNess for posting the above. Run this command in a command prompt:

Code:



Code:


"C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\NVSMI\nvidia-smi.exe" -q -d power

Here's mine for example:



Not even sure which BIOS I'm running right now LOL. Flashed too many last night... Think it's non-Extreme F4 beta, though.


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## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> Do you have a link to the F5 beta bios? I thought they only had F4 beta out.
> 
> Yeah my xtreme is stable at 2075 on the core as well, ranging from 2075 to 2050 based on if my card hits 70+ or not. I live in TX so ambient is at like 76F in my house, which causes it to run warmer than others. Extremely happy with it though, been playing Witcher 3 at 90+fps 1440p everything maxed out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that if the card is at 2088 then it has like a 25% chance to crash on heaven or other stress testing.


Sorry typo meant f4 beta


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## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> Sorry typo meant f4 beta


No worries man, was just gonna go ahead and download/update it if that were so


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## braddocksp

One question, but sorry for my english:

My brother have buy a two aorus 1080ti extreme. But the frecuencies not are the same as defined. In the web say: Boost: 1746 MHz / Base: 1632 MHz in OC mode
Boost: 1721 MHz / Base: 1607 MHz in Gaming mode, but the cards go to 1900Mhz or 2000Mhz without touching any. The program of aorus is very simple three profiles Gaming,OC, silent or custom. Msi afterburner the same, the Mhz defined in program no correspond to real.

Is normal on these cards? I have nvidia card from the gforce 256 to actuality (gforce 256,8800,4800,9800gt,and 750ti) and edit bios,etc,etc,and now RX470 (yes, my first no NVIDA, but questions of money), but this is embarrasing, or confusing.


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## JustinZanyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prelude514*
> 
> Sorry, can't answer posts individually right now as I'm in a rush. From what I've gathered, some BIOSes have stock 250w TDP and +50% available, while others have stock 300w with +25%. What reallyt matters, is that everyone no matter if Extreme or not has 375w available if the slider is maxed out.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/4690#post_26003001
> 
> Props to ThingyNess for posting the above. Run this command in a command prompt:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> "C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\NVSMI\nvidia-smi.exe" -q -d power
> 
> Here's mine for example:
> 
> 
> 
> Not even sure which BIOS I'm running right now LOL. Flashed too many last night... Think it's non-Extreme F4 beta, though.


Does BIOS flashing require the same circuits on PCB? I just flashed my non extreme to extreme 1080ti b/c they have the same PCB. Now I am thinking about flashing my 1080ti G1 to extreme water block bios. (different PCB) Will it work?


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## ThingyNess

Just an FYI for everyone, the BIOSes that are floating around for the Aorus XTreme and non-XTreme all have the same 375w maximum with the TDP slider set all the way to the right.

The ones with a +50% adjustment range have the stock FE 250w default TDP limit (this looks to be the BIOS that most of the reviewers got, and is the one posted to TechPowerUp's database)
The ones with a +25% adjustment range have a 300w default TDP limit, but adding +25% gives you the same 375w maximum.

So don't worry if your slider only goes up to +25%, you're actually better off out of the box anyway.


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## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThingyNess*
> 
> Just an FYI for everyone, the BIOSes that are floating around for the Aorus XTreme and non-XTreme all have the same 375w maximum with the TDP slider set all the way to the right.
> 
> The ones with a +50% adjustment range have the stock FE 250w default TDP limit (this looks to be the BIOS that most of the reviewers got, and is the one posted to TechPowerUp's database)
> The ones with a +25% adjustment range have a 300w default TDP limit, but adding +25% gives you the same 375w maximum.
> 
> So don't worry if your slider only goes up to +25%, you're actually better off out of the box anyway.


With the F4 BIOS?


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## jootn2kx

I flashed the extreme bios on my non extreme AORUS 1080ti card
But changing the voltages doesnt do anything, card doesnt seem to respond on it

I also saw in MSI afterburner the voltage was greyed out (also with the stock bios)
I need to use the Aorus software tool to change those voltages but doesnt do much

Any idea's?


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## prelude514

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> I flashed the extreme bios on my non extreme AORUS 1080ti card
> But changing the voltages doesnt do anything, card doesnt seem to respond on it
> 
> I also saw in MSI afterburner the voltage was greyed out (also with the stock bios)
> I need to use the Aorus software tool to change those voltages but doesnt do much
> 
> Any idea's?


You need to use afterburner's voltage curve to control specific voltages. Setting voltage to +100 will alow you to control up to 1.093v instead of 1.061 if I remember correctly.


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## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> I flashed the extreme bios on my non extreme AORUS 1080ti card
> But changing the voltages doesnt do anything, card doesnt seem to respond on it
> 
> I also saw in MSI afterburner the voltage was greyed out (also with the stock bios)
> I need to use the Aorus software tool to change those voltages but doesnt do much
> 
> Any idea's?


Go into afterburner settings. In the General tab, check unlock voltage control and the drop down to the right set to third party.

If that doesn't allow you to manipulate the voltage bar in afterburner, check How To Get Voltage Slider In Afterburner Working On a 1080 Ti thread out.


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## jootn2kx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> Go into afterburner settings. In the General tab, check unlock voltage control and the drop down to the right set to third party.
> 
> If that doesn't allow you to manipulate the voltage bar in afterburner, check How To Get Voltage Slider In Afterburner Working On a 1080 Ti thread out.


Thx for replying







that didn't help for unlocking the voltage slider


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## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> Thx for replying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> that didn't help for unlocking the voltage slider


Try checking the link I put into it, it's what I did to unlock the voltage control in afterburner.

Alternatively,

go into your msi afterburner folder
right click and edit MSIAfterburner.oem2
add "[VEN_10DE&DEV_1B06&SUBSYS_????????&REV_??]
VDDC_Generic_Detection = 1" to the bottom of the file and save.
Restart MSI Afterburner


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## jootn2kx

This unlocked the slider thanks!


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## braddocksp

Can someone respond please, these aorus extreme, are oc without touch? In my case two card no respond or no correspond to suposed Mhz. The cards in full charge go to 1900 or 2000Mhz.


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## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braddocksp*
> 
> Can someone respond please, these aorus extreme, are oc without touch? In my case two card no respond or no correspond to suposed Mhz. The cards in full charge go to 1900 or 2000Mhz.


Nvidia cards have been like this for a while now, the auto boost much much higher than what is listed on the specs sheet. My Xtreme boosts to 2025 under gpu load without me touching a thing.


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## jootn2kx

Im gona give a small update about the voltage slider that seems to be unlocked now in MSI afterburner

I think my non extreme AORUS card is voltage (hardware) locked
Increasing the voltage of the card doesn't seem have any effect strangely (+15 or +100 doesn't matter) cant higher my core clock compared to stock voltage.

Increasing the powerlimit does from 125 to 150% I saw an improvement in more stable clock speeds on higher temperatures, so this works.

Can someone double check this if the non extreme reacts on the voltage slider?


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## KJZ87

Got mine today. How do I deactivate the leds? i have a z170 mb so i cannot use rgb fusion.


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## nonnac7

You will need to install the aorus application that came with your card, should be on the dvd, just find the folder in the dvd and hit the install file. Bottom right of the program will have something you can click on to bring up the rgb stuff. I turned mine off as well as I couldn't get the breathing to be in sync with my motherboard. After you turn it off you don't need to have the program come back on again.


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## KJZ87

oh ok i do not have a drive in my pc but i do have a portable one. i will try it now.


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## KJZ87

i cannot find it; the aorus graphics engine has no led option.


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## KJZ87

Here is my Aorus Graphics Engine:



Here is another user's AGE:



Has to be the software that is faulty.


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## GNUster

I had the Xtreme variant for a couple of days. Flashed the F4 beta bios to get the 150% power limit and ran a bunch of OC configs using Afterburner 4.4.0 beta. Sadly, the card was even unstable when I just increased the power limit from 100 to 125% or higher while leaving everything else untouched. I also tested the Aorus Engine sofware (hint: don't forget to update to latest version!) where Gaming and OC mode also led to crashes.


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## jootn2kx

Can anyone confirm that the AORUS 1080ti NON extreme is voltage locked?

Even if you unlock the voltage slides in MSI afterburner it doesn't do anything to improve the OC


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## agentreza

Received the extreme yesterday and its boosts to 1987 out of the box. Power limit doesn't go past 125% and no matter how much i increase the core it stays put at 1987, any ideas?


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## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentreza*
> 
> Received the extreme yesterday and its boosts to 1987 out of the box. Power limit doesn't go past 125% and no matter how much i increase the core it stays put at 1987, any ideas?


Update bios to F4 beta and use Afterburner 4.4.0 beta or update Aorus Engine to latest version.


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## StarHunter64

I have the beta bios and the power target only goes to 125%. Like mentioned in other you have to run "C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\NVSMI\nvidia-smi.exe" -q -d in command prompt and it will tell you the power settings, even with the same BIOs it seems like some cards have 250W +50% or 300W +25% so it is the same.


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## agentreza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> Update bios to F4 beta and use Afterburner 4.4.0 beta or update Aorus Engine to latest version.


Thank you for responding. I will look into that and hopefully do not brick something in the process :/


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## mackair83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThingyNess*
> 
> Just an FYI for everyone, the BIOSes that are floating around for the Aorus XTreme and non-XTreme all have the same 375w maximum with the TDP slider set all the way to the right.
> 
> The ones with a +50% adjustment range have the stock FE 250w default TDP limit (this looks to be the BIOS that most of the reviewers got, and is the one posted to TechPowerUp's database)
> The ones with a +25% adjustment range have a 300w default TDP limit, but adding +25% gives you the same 375w maximum.
> 
> So don't worry if your slider only goes up to +25%, you're actually better off out of the box anyway.


So you are basically saying there is no point of flashing the bios?


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## nonnac7

Probably more along the lines of don't flash if you are only trying to get the 150% power limit.


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## RavageTheEarth

I'm on my last airplane and then I have another hour ride home and then I can finally tear that box open and hopefully able to fit it right below my water cooled 980 Ti. I have no interest in draining the loop right now. I just want to slide it under the 980 Ti until the water block comes out. I have a feeling I'm going to run into issues though. Maybe I'll be the first person to use a 980 Ti as a physics card ha!


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## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> Probably more along the lines of don't flash if you are only trying to get the 150% power limit.


I had to flash my xtreme to f4 beta because I was having weird fan issues, AB and Gpuz were saying fans were spinning when they were not, they were dead still benching and over 60c and climbing, so I stopped the bench asap. thought I had a bad card then saw on f4beta changelog that it was stability improvements too...

I flashed and all fan issues gone, runs like a beauty and solid at 2088 oc,

but I will run her at 2050, the extra 30 or so is less than 1 frame.
if I can do 2050 24/7 with min volts and under 70 its a winner.
we have to remember these cards are clocked 1400 or so stock from NVidia or so we already have a 500-600 MHz oc given to us out the box.

the side treat was the 150% which was only 125 prior.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> I had to flash my xtreme to f4 beta because I was having weird fan issues, AB and Gpuz were saying fans were spinning when they were not, they were dead still benching and over 60c and climbing, so I stopped the bench asap. thought I had a bad card then saw on f4beta changelog that it was stability improvements too...
> 
> I flashed and all fan issues gone, runs like a beauty and solid at 2088 oc,
> 
> but I will run her at 2050, the extra 30 or so is less than 1 frame.
> if I can do 2050 24/7 with min volts and under 70 its a winner.
> we have to remember these cards are clocked 1400 or so stock from NVidia or so we already have a 500-600 MHz oc given to us out the box.
> 
> the side treat was the 150% which was only 125 prior.


Nice on the clocks.

Yeah I wasn't really meaning that people shouldn't flash to the new bios, more so just saying if they were hoping to see the 25% increase to power limit, that it was already part of the cards in the bios they have. 250w *1.5 = 375 vs 300w *.1.25 = 375. The only difference is it was showing as 25 or 50 for extra power limit even though they were reaching the same max watts at maxed power limit.

I mean shoot, I installed the new bios immediately when I saw the post on reddit about GB releasing it. The only thing was the instructions were really vague :/


----------



## cyenz

Does anyone plays at 4k? Im playing witcher 3 and cannot even maintain 2ghz because of the power limit it surpases 150% at times.


----------



## c0ld

Flashed to F4 and the power limit 125% vs 150% with no OC yielded same boost 1.978-2.0GHz.


----------



## KJZ87

My Aorus Graphics Engine randomly showed the led option last night. i had to reboot and now i have control with my leds.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> Do you have a link to the F5 beta bios? I thought they only had F4 beta out.
> 
> Yeah my xtreme is stable at 2075 on the core as well, ranging from 2075 to 2050 based on if my card hits 70+ or not. I live in TX so ambient is at like 76F in my house, which causes it to run warmer than others. Extremely happy with it though, been playing Witcher 3 at 90+fps 1440p everything maxed out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I found that if the card is at 2088 then it has like a 25% chance to crash on heaven or other stress testing.


im in PR, ambient temp about 29. anyways i was having 70+ temps on the card as well and replacing the thermal compund helped a bit. mine has no beta bios just out of the box.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avioni*
> 
> im in PR, ambient temp about 29. anyways i was having 70+ temps on the card as well and replacing the thermal compund helped a bit. mine has no beta bios just out of the box.


How is he getting crappy temps on his Aorus, mine doesn't break 73C with the stock fan profile. If I set a custom profile it doesn't spin above 75% and keeps temps down to 63-65C.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

I'm finally home from my vacation and what can I say. This card is INCREDIBLE. All I did was move the power to 125% and it boosted to 2000Mhz passing Firestrike ultra multiple times with a +50 core. I'm running 100% fan and it's barely louder than my pumps, but I still haven't seen the temp go over 49C! That insane! I'm not sure how that's even possible. I need to find that tutorial for setting a voltage curve on the 1080 Ti. Can't seem to find it. Can anyone link me to it?


----------



## Stealthster

Just put in the order for my Aorus 1080 ti xtreme. After trying to purchase for the past week finally was able to make a backorder on newegg.com.
Now waiting for ekwb to release the waterblock for it.
It will be replacing my 980 ti g1 gaming, which is overclocked to 1520Mhz.
Does anybody have an idea of what the going rate is for my 980 ti g1 with ekwb waterblock and backplate?


----------



## Emmanuel

Can't wait for a comparison
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthster*
> 
> Just put in the order for my Aorus 1080 ti xtreme. After trying to purchase for the past week finally was able to make a backorder on newegg.com.
> Now waiting for ekwb to release the waterblock for it.
> It will be replacing my 980 ti g1 gaming, which is overclocked to 1520Mhz.
> Does anybody have an idea of what the going rate is for my 980 ti g1 with ekwb waterblock and backplate?


This is my story exactly! Did the same thing an hour and a half ago!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> Can anyone confirm that the AORUS 1080ti NON extreme is voltage locked?
> 
> Even if you unlock the voltage slides in MSI afterburner it doesn't do anything to improve the OC


Nope. I can get 1.093V just fine with MSI Afterburner. In fact, mine crashes at 2050 unless I get that extra voltage.

What you are seeing is the Pascal architecture limitation, kinda similar to what the 980ti was like around 1500mhz.

This is the part where it comes down to Silicon lottery as to how many OC bins you get above 1950mhz. Trash tier chips will struggle at 2000mhz while god tier chips will happily do 2100mhz with no extra voltage.

Getting beyond 2100mhz requires hard-mod levels of extra voltage and maybe even sub-ambient cooling.


----------



## KJZ87

I was stress testing my new Aorus 1080 ti xtreme with Realbench and my computer rebooted within 30 minutes.

And with one game i am experiencing longer loading times, crashes.

I have a 3.5 year old 750w Gold XFX PSU. could the psu be faulty here?


----------



## ReFFrs

Had very high expectations towards this card, but what I got is a total disaster.

My card is *AOURUS 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition* with latest bios *F4_beta*:

1. The only possible "overclock" option is increasing power limit to 150%. If you try to increase clocks or voltages on top of it, you will definitely get driver crash soon or later. Switching to OC mode in Aourus Engine utility will turn into almost instant crash in games. Although Gamer Mode works fine.

2. The card is easily hitting 79-80 C in most games (like Witcher 3 or Mass Effect Andromeda) with clocks going down to 1987 MHz. My chassis is Cooler Master HAF-X with 6 fans at ~50% speed and ambient temps are 22-23.5 C.

3. The card is occasionally hitting the power limit (150%) in some harsh game situations and downclocking even further, to like 1800 MHz. It occurs rarely at 2.5k resolution, but if the resolution is increased a bit via ingame scaling or DSR, the power limit suffers as well.

4. Loud coil whine starts above 200 fps, but you can already distinguish it above 90-100 fps.

5. So far the only advantage of this card is rather quiet fans even at 60-70% speed and 79-80 C. However, at high fps (like ingame menus, looking at map or inside inventory) fans will be overshadowed by the loud coil whine.

6. As shown in video provided above, this card has a low quality thermal grease and just by replacing it to liquid metal we can win like ~5 C (



). Why Gigabyte is using such low level components in their top product?

I'm very disappointed by temps, clocks and the coil whine with this card.


----------



## nonnac7

So I already posted this in the 1080Ti thread but figured I would repost it here since this is for our cards anyway









Here is my Aorus 1080Ti Xtreme - Superposition @ 4k and Timespy runs. 2075 core that eventually goes down to 2050 due to heat and 6014 for memory. 6850k @ 4.2GHz.



Been using these clocks to play witcher 3 for the past 4 or 5 days with like 4+ hours sessions. Pretty happy overall.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> Had very high expectations towards this card, but what I got is a total disaster.
> 
> My card is *AOURUS 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition* with latest bios *F4_beta*:
> 
> 1. The only possible "overclock" option is increasing power limit to 150%. If you try to increase clocks or voltages on top of it, you will definitely get driver crash soon or later. Switching to OC mode in Aourus Engine utility will turn into almost instant crash in games. Although Gamer Mode works fine.
> 
> 2. The card is easily hitting 79-80 C in most games (like Witcher 3 or Mass Effect Andromeda) with clocks going down to 1987 MHz. My chassis is Cooler Master HAF-X with 6 fans at ~50% speed and ambient temps are 22-23.5 C.
> 
> 3. The card is occasionally hitting the power limit (150%) in some harsh game situations and downclocking even further, to like 1800 MHz. It occurs rarely at 2.5k resolution, but if the resolution is increased a bit via ingame scaling or DSR, the power limit suffers as well.
> 
> 4. Loud coil whine starts above 200 fps, but you can already distinguish it above 90-100 fps.
> 
> 5. So far the only advantage of this card is rather quiet fans even at 60-70% speed and 79-80 C. However, at high fps (like ingame menus, looking at map or inside inventory) fans will be overshadowed by the loud coil whine.
> 
> 6. As shown in video provided above, this card has a low quality thermal grease and just by replacing it to liquid metal we can win like ~5 C (
> 
> 
> 
> ). Why Gigabyte is using such low level components in their top product?
> 
> I'm very disappointed by temps, clocks and the coil whine with this card.


Might want to think about RMA on that card. Seems like something is wrong with it based on other peoples results with it. What are the rest of your PC Specs?


----------



## KJZ87

Is there a test I can run to see if my psu is giving my gpu enough power? The Power led incidator have not flashed yet that i have seen. I have the XFX P1-750B-BEFX. It should be well more than enough power for a single aorus xtreme. But the PSU is 3.5 years old.

With the crash on Realbench and longer loading times and crashes on a couple of my games, something is not right.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> Had very high expectations towards this card, but what I got is a total disaster.
> 
> My card is *AOURUS 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition* with latest bios *F4_beta*:
> 
> 1. The only possible "overclock" option is increasing power limit to 150%. If you try to increase clocks or voltages on top of it, you will definitely get driver crash soon or later. Switching to OC mode in Aourus Engine utility will turn into almost instant crash in games. Although Gamer Mode works fine.
> 
> 2. The card is easily hitting 79-80 C in most games (like Witcher 3 or Mass Effect Andromeda) with clocks going down to 1987 MHz. My chassis is Cooler Master HAF-X with 6 fans at ~50% speed and ambient temps are 22-23.5 C.
> 
> 3. The card is occasionally hitting the power limit (150%) in some harsh game situations and downclocking even further, to like 1800 MHz. It occurs rarely at 2.5k resolution, but if the resolution is increased a bit via ingame scaling or DSR, the power limit suffers as well.
> 
> 4. Loud coil whine starts above 200 fps, but you can already distinguish it above 90-100 fps.
> 
> 5. So far the only advantage of this card is rather quiet fans even at 60-70% speed and 79-80 C. However, at high fps (like ingame menus, looking at map or inside inventory) fans will be overshadowed by the loud coil whine.
> 
> 6. As shown in video provided above, this card has a low quality thermal grease and just by replacing it to liquid metal we can win like ~5 C (
> 
> 
> 
> ). Why Gigabyte is using such low level components in their top product?
> 
> I'm very disappointed by temps, clocks and the coil whine with this card.


1. This is an architectural issue, see my earlier post, not all Pascal cards will do 2000+mhz. There are a very small subset (arguably as rare as those that can do 2100mhz) that will refuse to do 2000mhz and will crash upon tweaking. This is silicon lottery.

2. Do a custom fan profile, if that doesn't work then repaste. If that further doesn't work then RMA the card.

3+5. This card's power limit is actually its biggest advantage, it saves you from having to do a shunt mod to bypass the Power limit on other cards. There is absolutely no point, to have the best cooling only to be power gated.

4. 99% of cards will have coil whine at 200fps lol. That is simply the nature of how inductors work. Coil whine is not even indicative of the quality of the inductors themselves. RMA the card because it seems like you got a crap chip to begin with, but don't expect zero coil whine, even from other brands. If you really want to deal with coil whine, just do the hot-glue mod or pad the top with a thermal pad to contact the cooler, whatever that can apply pressure to the inductors to minimize their vibrations (which causes the whine noise)

6. Just replace with kryo or conductonaut


----------



## ReFFrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> What are the rest of your PC Specs?


Does it really matter? I have a 5820k 4.5 Ghz, Asus Rampage V Extreme MB with PCIE 3.0 and 1000W PSU, so definitely should be enough for this card.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> Does it really matter? I have a 5820k 4.5 Ghz, Asus Rampage V Extreme MB with PCIE 3.0 and 1000W PSU, so definitely should be enough for this card.


Well now that you posted your specs to us it doesn't matter, but for all we knew you coulda had a 400w psu :/

I agree with pretty much everything dasboogieman said.

What are your core clocks prior to it downclocking in games?


----------



## Slackaveli

How did I miss this thread! Sup, fellaz!

I'm in. looks like I have some work to do in here. You guys are all over the place!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ajresendez*
> 
> Yeah I tried manually getting the advertised clocks and still nothing.


were you adding volts? DON'T. These dont like that. My non extreme Aorus clocks to 2088, settles in at 2076. This is +90 core, no volts, a couple curve tweaks (notablly running 1.043v at +77). EZ Peasy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Nope. I can get 1.093V just fine with MSI Afterburner. In fact, mine crashes at 2050 unless I get that extra voltage.
> 
> What you are seeing is the Pascal architecture limitation, kinda similar to what the 980ti was like around 1500mhz.
> 
> This is the part where it comes down to Silicon lottery as to how many OC bins you get above 1950mhz. Trash tier chips will struggle at 2000mhz while god tier chips will happily do 2100mhz with no extra voltage.
> 
> Getting beyond 2100mhz requires hard-mod levels of extra voltage and maybe even sub-ambient cooling.


COMPLETELY DISAGREE about voltages. It's just a temp limitation/silicon limitation imo. I hit 2100 stock volts, as long as I'm under 40c. That's impossible with stock cooler, but after kyro re-pasting i CAN keep it under 50c in benches and run it at 2088/2076 downclocks, even in SuPo 4k. And I don't even have The Extreme version.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> How did I miss this thread! Sup, fellaz!
> 
> I'm in. looks like I have some work to do in here. You guys are all over the place!!!


Welcome! In all seriousness though, I was gonna say something in the 1080 thread that you are missing out in the aorus thread lol.


----------



## ReFFrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> What are your core clocks prior to it downclocking in games?


At the first minute after benchmark or game is launched core is at 2038 Mhz. Then it's being reduced steadily to 1987 Mhz over time with temperature rising. The balance point appears around 78-80 C and 1987 Mhz - temperature is not increasing anymore and clock stays there.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> Welcome! In all seriousness though, I was gonna say something in the 1080 thread that you are missing out in the aorus thread lol.


im also active in the Titan thread and the 5775c thread and now i get tons of questions, lol. It's all good, though. Maybe I can help a few of ya'll with these, b/c they seem tricky but really they are pretty straight forward, just different than we are used to.


----------



## agentreza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> At the first minute after benchmark or game is launched core is at 2038 Mhz. Then it's being reduced steadily to 1987 Mhz over time with temperature rising. The balance point appears around 78-80 C and 1987 Mhz - temperature is not increasing anymore and clock stays there.


OMG I'm having the same issue, thinking if I should return the card. It was so hard to finally buy one!

Anybody using a custom fan curve that you can share a screenshot of? Maybe if i keep temps at 70 or under it will fix the issue.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *agentreza*
> 
> OMG I'm having the same issue, thinking if I should return the card. It was so hard to finally buy one!
> 
> Anybody using a custom fan curve that you can share a screenshot of? Maybe if i keep temps at 70 or under it will fix the issue.


Just run 100% fan. My temps never exceed 50C with a 2088/5859 OC @ 1.042v. The fan is barely louder than my D5 pump.


----------



## ReFFrs

Anybody can suggest a good AIO watercooling kit (or at least several different parts) which 100% fits to Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme?

Seems like it's the only option of solving temperature (and downclocking) problems.

But still we need a new bios with power limit above 150% for resolutions (and upscales) exceeding 2560x1440


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Just run 100% fan. My temps never exceed 50C with a 2088/5859 OC @ 1.042v. The fan is barely louder than my D5 pump.


this. Atleast for testing run it 100. It's barely audible but the difference between 85% fan and 100% fan in cooling performance is profound. Also, Thermal Grizz that dude!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> Anybody can suggest a good AIO watercooling kit (or at least several different parts) which 100% fits to Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme?
> 
> Seems like it's the only option of solving temperature (and downclocking) problems.
> 
> But still we need a new bios with power limit above 150% for resolutions (and upscales) exceeding 2560x1440


not true, man. I bench at 47c on stock cooler. I game at under 60c all day long. Thermal grizzly Kyronaut, aggro fan curve, and maybe you need to address some case cooling probs. I recommend Noctua F-12 fans, they are insane.


----------



## ReFFrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Atleast for testing run it 100. It's barely audible but the difference between 85% fan and 100% fan in cooling performance is profound.


At 100% fan my card finishes Heaven benchmark with 2025 Mhz and 63 C, but the fan noise is to loud for me.

Now I want the same temps and clocks, but with quiet watercooling solution.

However, the difference in FPS between 2025Mhz/63C and 1987Mhz/78C is only 0.2 fps: 97.3 VS 97.1


----------



## jootn2kx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> were you adding volts? DON'T. These dont like that. My non extreme Aorus clocks to 2088, settles in at 2076. This is +90 core, no volts, a couple curve tweaks (notablly running 1.043v at +77). EZ Peasy.
> COMPLETELY DISAGREE about voltages. It's just a temp limitation/silicon limitation imo. I hit 2100 stock volts, as long as I'm under 40c. That's impossible with stock cooler, but after kyro re-pasting i CAN keep it under 50c in benches and run it at 2088/2076 downclocks, even in SuPo 4k. And I don't even have The Extreme version.


What do you mean with curve tweaks? can you explain this further plz








How do you do that?


----------



## ajresendez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> How did I miss this thread! Sup, fellaz!
> 
> I'm in. looks like I have some work to do in here. You guys are all over the place!!!
> were you adding volts? DON'T. These dont like that. My non extreme Aorus clocks to 2088, settles in at 2076. This is +90 core, no volts, a couple curve tweaks (notablly running 1.043v at +77). EZ Peasy.
> COMPLETELY DISAGREE about voltages. It's just a temp limitation/silicon limitation imo. I hit 2100 stock volts, as long as I'm under 40c. That's impossible with stock cooler, but after kyro re-pasting i CAN keep it under 50c in benches and run it at 2088/2076 downclocks, even in SuPo 4k. And I don't even have The Extreme version.


No I didnt just tried to hit the stock settings basically and got nothing. I've already rmad it so hopefully the replacement will be better if not ill have to wrestle with newegg to get a different card.


----------



## djbye1977

Hi! I've just ordered an Aorus GTX 1080 ti (non Xtreme) because in Spain the Xtreme model is not available yet. I'd like to know if the difference between the two models is just software configuration (bios) or if the non Xtreme is "capped" in any way.

Thank you in advance guys!!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> What do you mean with curve tweaks? can you explain this further plz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How do you do that?


it's easy enough but i'd recommend checking the big 1080ti owner's thread as there is a wealth of oc info in there.

Here: See the voltage curve video. http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps/0_20
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djbye1977*
> 
> Hi! I've just ordered an Aorus GTX 1080 ti (non Xtreme) because in Spain the Xtreme model is not available yet. I'd like to know if the difference between the two models is just software configuration (bios) or if the non Xtreme is "capped" in any way.
> 
> Thank you in advance guys!!


backplate is different, stock clock is +25 higher on extreme. Other than that it's just silicon lottery on clock speeds. Mine hit's +65 over Extreme's base clocks and it's a Aorus regular.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So it looks like I'm stable with a voltage curve at 2063 @1.043v. Memory is a little wonky and can probably go a little higher, but I have it at a stable 5859Mhz OC which is +350. Here is my SuperPosition score.


----------



## agentreza

Wow! I shouldn't even worry about going past 1987 then if the real world difference is so negligible. My temps stick around 73 with the active fan profile.


----------



## Luck100

Is anybody selling this other than Newegg? Amazon just seems to have FE cards and a few very expensive custom cards from third party sellers.


----------



## Himura88

So i just bought a gtx 1080 ti Xtreme Edition and i can t play anything.... when i want to play gta 5 i got err_gfx_d3d_init after 5-10 min of playing if i want to play bf 1 i get directx function "DX11 Renderer::tryMap" failed with DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_REMOVED ("The video card has been physically reomved from the system, or a driver upgrade for the video card has occurred. "). GPU: "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti ", Driver: 358991. This error is usually casued by the graphics driver crashing; try intsalling the latest drivers. Also, make sure you have a supported grpahics card with at least 2GB.

Can some one help me? is this software error or my card is bad ?
This happen at stock clock, if i unde clock the card same results.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> So i just bought a gtx 1080 ti Xtreme Edition and i can t play anything.... when i want to play gta 5 i got err_gfx_d3d_init after 5-10 min of playing if i want to play bf 1 i get directx function "DX11 Renderer::tryMap" failed with DXGI_ERROR_DEVICE_REMOVED ("The video card has been physically reomved from the system, or a driver upgrade for the video card has occurred. "). GPU: "NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti ", Driver: 358991. This error is usually casued by the graphics driver crashing; try intsalling the latest drivers. Also, make sure you have a supported grpahics card with at least 2GB.
> 
> Can some one help me? is this software error or my card is bad ?
> This happen at stock clock, if i unde clock the card same results.


Try reinstalling the drivers. Except make sure you click on the "clean install" button. This will get rid of all the remnants of the previous driver. Or perhaps I should start really simple. Did you install drivers when you installed the card? No offense meant by that question, I just don't know how experienced you are with these things.


----------



## Himura88

i only use ddu, i try latest drivers and older driver same result.... also my PSU is seasonic s12ii-620 bronze


----------



## AJ Riddle

Okay, so I got my Aorus Xtreme 1080ti today and have been struggling for the past 4 hours to figure out whats wrong, but I assume my card needs to be RMA'd.

If I run it at the stock OC clock speeds than my games all crash and 3dmark benchmarks crash and freeze 10 to 60 seconds into it. Sometimes it causes PC to freeze with artifacts on the screen.

After troubleshooting on reddit they though the card might not be getting enough power, but I have a Seasonic SS660xp2 which is a 660w Platinum+ high end PSU and my rig should only require about 500w.

Anyway, when I underclock the card by putting it on Aorus software's silent mode it seems to run fine, but on normal/gaming/OC mode it crashes games.

Do I send it back to Newegg? RMA it to Gigabyte? Or is it my PCs fault?


----------



## Himura88

same here... but how you put it in normal gaming etc ? cause is locked only user i can select


----------



## Stealthster

Is your cpu overclocked? I had the same problem with blackscreen and crashes and had to downclock my 5820k from 4.4 to 4.3Ghz.


----------



## Stealthster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJ Riddle*
> 
> Okay, so I got my Aorus Xtreme 1080ti today and have been struggling for the past 4 hours to figure out whats wrong, but I assume my card needs to be RMA'd.
> 
> If I run it at the stock OC clock speeds than my games all crash and 3dmark benchmarks crash and freeze 10 to 60 seconds into it. Sometimes it causes PC to freeze with artifacts on the screen.
> 
> After troubleshooting on reddit they though the card might not be getting enough power, but I have a Seasonic SS660xp2 which is a 660w Platinum+ high end PSU and my rig should only require about 500w.
> 
> Anyway, when I underclock the card by putting it on Aorus software's silent mode it seems to run fine, but on normal/gaming/OC mode it crashes games.
> 
> Do I send it back to Newegg? RMA it to Gigabyte? Or is it my PCs fault?


Is your cpu overclocked? I had the same problem with blackscreen and crashes and had to downclock my 5820k from 4.4 to 4.3Ghz.


----------



## Himura88

I have the same problem, only work in silent mod....... so is the card or ?


----------



## AJ Riddle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthster*
> 
> Is your cpu overclocked? I had the same problem with blackscreen and crashes and had to downclock my 5820k from 4.4 to 4.3Ghz.


Nope, have a 4770k running at stock 3.5ghz.


----------



## Benny89

Seems so far that temps on those are quite hight. Without any OC on stock nobody should go pass 69 C. At least that what STRIX was doing.

Also try first to OC your card (max PL only) without increasing Voltage. See how much you can get there first.

Thing about this cards is that often higher voltage and clocks result in lower performance than lower volts and clocks.


----------



## Slackaveli

.[


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJ Riddle*
> 
> Okay, so I got my Aorus Xtreme 1080ti today and have been struggling for the past 4 hours to figure out whats wrong, but I assume my card needs to be RMA'd.
> 
> If I run it at the stock OC clock speeds than my games all crash and 3dmark benchmarks crash and freeze 10 to 60 seconds into it. Sometimes it causes PC to freeze with artifacts on the screen.
> 
> After troubleshooting on reddit they though the card might not be getting enough power, but I have a Seasonic SS660xp2 which is a 660w Platinum+ high end PSU and my rig should only require about 500w.
> 
> Anyway, when I underclock the card by putting it on Aorus software's silent mode it seems to run fine, but on normal/gaming/OC mode it crashes games.
> 
> Do I send it back to Newegg? RMA it to Gigabyte? Or is it my PCs fault?


dang, sounds like yours shouldn't have been binned as an extreme to me, I woul;d RMA that one. You'll end up regretting if you dont and most everybody is blown away by the perf on these so something isn't right at all. Maybe take the turnaround time to sell that psu and grab an evga 850 gold or 1000 gold and just be sure on it. Probably won't cost you more than ~$30 if you sell the 650 platty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> same here... but how you put it in normal gaming etc ? cause is locked only user i can select


i had same prob with Aorus software, only manual worked, none of the presets select. But manual is better anyway, just do it in afterburner though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> i only use ddu, i try latest drivers and older driver same result.... also my PSU is seasonic s12ii-620 bronze


im baffled. you may need better than that psu, but almost everytime someone says "it's probably your psu" it never is, so i hesitate to blame it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Seems so far that temps on those are quite hight. Without any OC on stock nobody should go pass 69 C. At least that what STRIX was doing.
> 
> Also try first to OC your card (max PL only) without increasing Voltage. See how much you can get there first.
> 
> Thing about this cards is that often higher voltage and clocks result in lower performance than lower volts and clocks.


at stock fans they are about 70c, but the fan on aggro is crazy good. It's damn near silent and I game at 57c with it on aggro curve (although 5c can be attributed to Thermal Grizz Kyro).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> I have the same problem, only work in silent mod....... so is the card or ?


uninstall that crap and use afterburner. Remember that you are already at +89 over stock and may not be able to hold much more than that. Just add +25 at a time until you find your "crash" number, then back it down 13mhz. Usually that will hold. DONT add voltage.

God the multiquote hates me.


----------



## Slackaveli

.


----------



## tepusg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJ Riddle*
> 
> Okay, so I got my Aorus Xtreme 1080ti today and have been struggling for the past 4 hours to figure out whats wrong, but I assume my card needs to be RMA'd.
> 
> If I run it at the stock OC clock speeds than my games all crash and 3dmark benchmarks crash and freeze 10 to 60 seconds into it. Sometimes it causes PC to freeze with artifacts on the screen.
> 
> After troubleshooting on reddit they though the card might not be getting enough power, but I have a Seasonic SS660xp2 which is a 660w Platinum+ high end PSU and my rig should only require about 500w.
> 
> Anyway, when I underclock the card by putting it on Aorus software's silent mode it seems to run fine, but on normal/gaming/OC mode it crashes games.
> 
> Do I send it back to Newegg? RMA it to Gigabyte? Or is it my PCs fault?


same here , I cannot run it in overclock mode, it crashes or locks up. Its fine in default mode. The highest I can get out of it its 1987 with maximum voltage. Seems very stable. Looks like chips that should not have been used in xtreme editions, not clocking well enough. My FE asus was overclocking better, just too noisy (2050). Marginal performance increase but still broke 2k mark


----------



## AJ Riddle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> dang, sounds like yours shouldn't have been binned as an extreme to me, I woul;d RMA that one. You'll end up regretting if you dont and most everybody is blown away by the perf on these so something isn't right at all. Maybe take the turnaround time to sell that psu and grab an evga 850 gold or 1000 gold and just be sure on it. Probably won't cost you more than ~$30 if you sell the 650 platty.


I can see from my battery backup (its a CyberPower Pure Sinewave UPS - can output 900w) that when I have the core clock set to 1600 and memory to 11010 I am only pulling out 500w max, and that is including my 2 1440p IPS monitors! I can also see it by % of max output and it only ever gets up to about 55%.

I'm really thinking its the GPU and not my PSU, especially since a 1080ti doesn't really draw that much more power than a 1070 that was overclocked and this is a really high-end PSU I have now.


----------



## tepusg

[I'm really thinking its the GPU and not my PSU, especially since a 1080ti doesn't really draw that much more power than a 1070 that was overclocked and this is a really high-end PSU I have now.[/quote]

its not your PSU I have 1200 w hi quality PS and have the same issue. I wonder if gigabyte will issue a bios update to fix this. I doubt as I think its the chip.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJ Riddle*
> 
> I can see from my battery backup (its a CyberPower Pure Sinewave UPS - can output 900w) that when I have the core clock set to 1600 and memory to 11010 I am only pulling out 500w max, and that is including my 2 1440p IPS monitors! I can also see it by % of max output and it only ever gets up to about 55%.
> 
> I'm really thinking its the GPU and not my PSU, especially since a 1080ti doesn't really draw that much more power than a 1070 that was overclocked and this is a really high-end PSU I have now.


i would concur. that psu is a definite madman.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> same here , I cannot run it in overclock mode, it crashes or locks up. Its fine in default mode. The highest I can get out of it its 1987 with maximum voltage. Seems very stable. Looks like chips that should not have been used in xtreme editions, not clocking well enough. My FE asus was overclocking better, just too noisy (2050). Marginal performance increase but still broke 2k mark


I've been saying this until I'm blue in the face/ DO NOT ADD VOLTS TO THESE>
Or, enjoy the constant crashing.

NO VOLTS. Add +50 core. Test, try +63, +76, +89. When you crash, back down 13. It's easy. NO VOLTAGE.

Seriously, NO VOLTAGE.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> same here , I cannot run it in overclock mode, it crashes or locks up. Its fine in default mode. The highest I can get out of it its 1987 with maximum voltage. Seems very stable. Looks like chips that should not have been used in xtreme editions, not clocking well enough. My FE asus was overclocking better, just too noisy (2050). Marginal performance increase but still broke 2k mark


I've been saying this until I'm blue in the face/ DO NOT ADD VOLTS TO THESE>
Or, enjoy the constant crashing.

NO VOLTS. Add +50 core. Test, try +63, +76, +89. When you crash, back down 13. It's easy. NO VOLTAGE.

Seriously, NO VOLTAGE.


----------



## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> I've been saying this until I'm blue in the face/ DO NOT ADD VOLTS TO THESE>
> Or, enjoy the constant crashing.
> 
> NO VOLTS. Add +50 core. Test, try +63, +76, +89. When you crash, back down 13. It's easy. NO VOLTAGE.
> 
> Seriously, NO VOLTAGE.


this man speaks the truth.

am stable 2062-2050 no volts, prior was a crash fest.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJ Riddle*
> 
> Okay, so I got my Aorus Xtreme 1080ti today and have been struggling for the past 4 hours to figure out whats wrong, but I assume my card needs to be RMA'd.
> 
> If I run it at the stock OC clock speeds than my games all crash and 3dmark benchmarks crash and freeze 10 to 60 seconds into it. Sometimes it causes PC to freeze with artifacts on the screen.
> 
> After troubleshooting on reddit they though the card might not be getting enough power, but I have a Seasonic SS660xp2 which is a 660w Platinum+ high end PSU and my rig should only require about 500w.
> 
> Anyway, when I underclock the card by putting it on Aorus software's silent mode it seems to run fine, but on normal/gaming/OC mode it crashes games.
> 
> Do I send it back to Newegg? RMA it to Gigabyte? Or is it my PCs fault?


Personally, I would not let the software take care of setting it to 'OC' mode. Chances are yours cards are fairly close to maxed out already, if the OC mode tries to bump it up by like 70 core it's gonna put you way over your limit.

You could switch to msi afterburner and try messing with overclocks that way if you want it to be overclocked. Otherwise use it at the default. I have a feeling the aorus software is causing people to crash because it is bumping up the core to much in 'OC' mode.

Also, what does your core go to at default and what does it go to in OC mode?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> I've been saying this until I'm blue in the face/ DO NOT ADD VOLTS TO THESE>
> Or, enjoy the constant crashing.
> 
> NO VOLTS. Add +50 core. Test, try +63, +76, +89. When you crash, back down 13. It's easy. NO VOLTAGE.
> 
> Seriously, NO VOLTAGE.


Mine won't do more than 2037 on stock voltage for love or money lol, it does do 2050 with 1093v. So I got a mediocre one, memory seems good though, I pushed +500 and its still going. However, bandwidth takes a nosedive past 5994mhz so I don't think the extra VRAM frequency is doing anything because the gains are being lost due to looser timings + GDDR5X ECC.


----------



## slaney30

Whats the main difference between the standard Aorus Geforce GTX 1080 TI and the Xtreme edition?

I know back-plating is different, but can I still over clock the same? Been outta the GPU game for awhile.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *slaney30*
> 
> Whats the main difference between the standard Aorus Geforce GTX 1080 TI and the Xtreme edition?
> 
> I know back-plating is different, but can I still over clock the same? Been outta the GPU game for awhile.


Functionally the same, the stock version has no padding for the MOSFETs and 2 of the 3 RAM banks on the backplate side of the board so ur gonna have to DiY these. The Extreme version has more LEDs which ironically enough can reduce the performance potential because they eat in to the power budget.
If it also matters, the Extreme has a whopping big LED at the site of the VRM mosfets on the backplate which can reduce cooling potential if you decide to pad that area.

I actually disconnected the LED switch on my stock Auorus card so I can get less power limited in Superposition.

All in all, its still silicon lottery that determines your overclocks.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Mine won't do more than 2037 on stock voltage for love or money lol, it does do 2050 with 1093v. So I got a mediocre one, memory seems good though, I pushed +500 and its still going. However, bandwidth takes a nosedive past 5994mhz so I don't think the extra VRAM frequency is doing anything because the gains are being lost due to looser timings + GDDR5X ECC.


i can hold +90 but no more, which is pretty awesome, but my vram only +442, a little higher than that and they artifact.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> this man speaks the truth.
> 
> am stable 2062-2050 no volts, prior was a crash fest.


it's contrary to what we've always done. I've always been a set power/temp/AND VOLTS to max guy. But it's different now.


----------



## Slackaveli

.


----------



## Himura88

So i m not even oc the card and it goes to 2050 and i can t play anything my display driver is crashing ! So i installed aorus software just to set to silent mode 1800 mhz and is not crashing but on stock +0 on clock +0 ram no voltage on msi after burner and is crashing in everything ! I use ddu to install drivers etc


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> So i m not even oc the card and it goes to 2050 and i can t play anything my display driver is crashing ! So i installed aorus software just to set to silent mode 1800 mhz and is not crashing but on stock +0 on clock +0 ram no voltage on msi after burner and is crashing in everything ! I use ddu to install drivers etc


that's crazy, but you aren't the only one i've heard say that. That's an Extreme, right? Has to be hitting 2050 stock. There are only a couple of you guys, but still. I'd consider rma, and even though perf wise you'd be fine im sure your fps will still be godly, but...

They won't do a real rma just because it's a poor clocker, but it has to at least be able to hold stock clocks! That's kinda bad, tbh, so much for "Gauntlet" binning. If it's having trouble day one, it could potentially be a nightmare throughout and that is not right for this much money. RMA that dude. Even Newegg which has the "return for like product only" will give you a better one on the second try. Pretty much everrybody is loving their Aorus. Maybe 1/10 got crummy clockers.

Damn I feel lucky mine holds +90.


----------



## Himura88

But is normal ? To go that high stock without any oc ? Like 2050 mhz ? And that silent mod that is 1800 mhz is still oc ?


----------



## ReFFrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> I wonder if gigabyte will issue a bios update to fix this. I doubt as I think its the chip.


Of course they will release a new bios, where OC mode in Aorus Utility will be heavily nerfed and will provide only ~0.5% overclock, but no crashes!


----------



## Himura88

So you check aorus site for.the bios update or ? Where can i find it


----------



## ReFFrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> So you check aorus site for.the bios update or ? Where can i find it


You should look for new bios on Gigabyte website under support section for your card, not on Aorus dedicated website. For example (Xtreme): http://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl


----------



## Benny89

Dam, seems Gigabyte Cards are pack with problems... There already few people here with the same issues.

Makes me nervious of buying Xtreme Edition of Aorus


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Functionally the same, the stock version has no padding for the MOSFETs and 2 of the 3 RAM banks on the backplate side of the board so ur gonna have to DiY these. The Extreme version has more LEDs which ironically enough can reduce the performance potential because they eat in to the power budget.
> If it also matters, the Extreme has a whopping big LED at the site of the VRM mosfets on the backplate which can reduce cooling potential if you decide to pad that area.
> 
> I actually disconnected the LED switch on my stock Auorus card so I can get less power limited in Superposition.
> 
> All in all, its still silicon lottery that determines your overclocks.


Apart from SUP bench I don't really think you should worry about LEDs and power use in everyday gaming scenarios. 375W is A LOT.


----------



## ReFFrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I actually disconnected the LED switch on my stock Auorus card so I can get less power limited in Superposition.


Is it necessary to disconnect LEDs physically? Just turning off them in Aourus Engine app won't be enough?


----------



## KJZ87

While I was playing a graphically intense game the screen had White square artifacting before the game crashed. looks like i will need to do a RMA.

And the card was not OCed with MSI Afterburner. just maxed the power limit to 125. The temps were below 70 when the game crashed.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KJZ87*
> 
> While I was playing a graphically intense game the screen had White square artifacting before the game crashed. looks like i will need to do a RMA.
> 
> And the card was not OCed with MSI Afterburner. just maxed the power limit to 125. The temps were below 70 when the game crashed.


Was it on stock or did you OC? Afterfacting like that is mostly caused by too high Memory OC.

But if you didn't OC- definitely RMA.

LOL, a lot of RMAs for this cards..


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Dam, seems Gigabyte Cards are pack with problems... There already few people here with the same issues.
> 
> Makes me nervious of buying Xtreme Edition of Aorus


Not really, Gigabyte are just super aggressive with the factory overclocks, and this inevitably invites problems. As far as I know, the gauntlet sorting doesn't do squat lol.

Don't get me wrong, this is very much like the 980ti gaming extreme, needs a bit of tweaking and minor mods to iron out the rough edges but it runs beautifully when properly tuned. Also I don't care about lighting so it was wasted power to me anyway.

To be fair, I'm looking more forward with the card as far as power consumption. Just because the card is OK now doesn't mean it will be in 6m or 1 yr down the track. 4K gaming has kind of shown it can hit the limit, FFXIV at 4k can already trip the 375W limit at very specific parts so as the visual fidelity of new titles goes up, that limit becomes more real.


----------



## KJZ87

Well i ordered it from Newegg so that means they will replace it only? i better not get a return or refurbish.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Was it on stock or did you OC? Afterfacting like that is mostly caused by too high Memory OC.
> 
> But if you didn't OC- definitely RMA.
> 
> LOL, a lot of RMAs for this cards..


Well i ordered it from Newegg so that means they will replace it only? i better not get a return or refurbish.


----------



## KJZ87

Card is now practically dead. i get no options in Afterburner.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KJZ87*
> 
> Card is now practically dead. i get no options in Afterburner.


Then only RMA remains.

Semms like little hit and miss with Aorus this round. Not in terms of silicon lottery but if your card will work or not









Joking, I myself want to try one







. I was never more pleased with card than with my Gigabyte G1 980Ti. So I hope GB did not drop balls this time around


----------



## cyenz

Well for everything is ok with my card, not lucky with silicon lottery but the card itself is okay.

Airflow will make an huge difference at least when the card is being puxed to its limits, the outake must be able to take all the heat the card produces out of the case quickly to avoid build up.

Playing at 4K Witcher 3 is the best stability test for me, this game hits the power limit at 150%, and it gets pretty hot, no other game i have test have such a power draw, its incredible i only imagine the power throtle with a card that only have 120% of power limit, it will throtle to near 1.9ghz for sure.

For example at 4K im stable at exactly 2GHZ at 78C with custom fan profile but i can be stable at 1440p at near 2,05ghz at 72C, 3 bins above.

This game at 4K crushes my OC dreams with every card i test.


----------



## KJZ87

My card was actually very cool with highs at in the upper 60s. And my Crystal 570x has good airflow.


----------



## Zelo

Got my 1080Ti Aorus Xtreme! Hype!!! OC'd it to +25 core/+500 mem so far. Might tinker some more with it later. Very quiet card fan usually stays at 52% under load at 68C.

http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19262025


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Glad to see so many new people joining the thread! Feel free to add the code from the first post into your signature! Maybe when I get some time I'll set up some leaderboards for different benches in the first post.


----------



## KJZ87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Then only RMA remains.
> 
> Semms like little hit and miss with Aorus this round. Not in terms of silicon lottery but if your card will work or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Joking, I myself want to try one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I was never more pleased with card than with my Gigabyte G1 980Ti. So I hope GB did not drop balls this time around


On the bright mine was very quiet with the fans running below 100%.

Could artifacting be caused by another component other than the gpu, like the psu? This is the 2nd time I had to RMA a gpu within a year or so. With the same PSU.


----------



## Himura88

i don t think ... like 90% psu won t cause artifacting

Edit : So my card out of box goes to 2088 but then it goes to 2074 2060 2074 2080 depends on the temperature but it crash.....
so i have to DOWNCLOCK from msi afterburner to -20 clock and -20 mem to be stable or it apear to be stable an run between 1980 - 2000 but my question is ...... even i downclock the card from msi afterburner is still oc ? cause when i use aorus software on OC it goes 2088 2050 in gaming and 1876 in silent ... so why my card goes without any software to 2088 and crash and is normal to downclock it to work ? or i don t get it what is the stock core for this card??

msi afterburner is wrong or the factory OC is wrong ?


----------



## agentreza

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> i don t think ... like 90% psu won t cause artifacting
> 
> Edit : So my card out of box goes to 2088 but then it goes to 2074 2060 2074 2080 depends on the temperature but it crash.....
> so i have to DOWNCLOCK from msi afterburner to -20 clock and -20 mem to be stable or it apear to be stable an run between 1980 - 2000 but my question is ...... even i downclock the card from msi afterburner is still oc ? cause when i use aorus software on OC it goes 2088 2050 in gaming and 1876 in silent ... so why my card goes without any software to 2088 and crash and is normal to downclock it to work ? or i don t get it what is the stock core for this card??
> 
> msi afterburner is wrong or the factory OC is wrong ?


I had a lot of issues in beginning, all were solved by upping the fan usage to 85-90%.now I just run a custom curve, try it!


----------



## Himura88

My question is about this crazy core clock without any OC ? 2088 out of the box ? and it crash so i have to downclock from msi afterburner to 1980 - 2000 but is still oc ? how that ? i have the stock bios ? the bios is the problem ? msi afterburner is not reading the card like it suppose to?


----------



## Luck100

I'm very tempted to go for this card, but there seems to be a lot of people having quality control issues. Are some of these cards really lemons, or do they just need the clocks dropped down a notch? Seems like the factory settings are already good enough to go over 2000 MHz (which would be plenty for me).


----------



## Himura88

Mine stock goes 2088 2090 but crash so i have to downclock it to 2000 lol ... i don t kbow if it is downclock or simply the bios is to much for this card like 2090 mhz... i saw people review urs that got it stable at 1950 so....


----------



## cyenz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> My question is about this crazy core clock without any OC ? 2088 out of the box ? and it crash so i have to downclock from msi afterburner to 1980 - 2000 but is still oc ? how that ? i have the stock bios ? the bios is the problem ? msi afterburner is not reading the card like it suppose to?


That value is too high for out of the box with no OC, you should be boosting to around 1940, 2088 out of box is not right.


----------



## Himura88

so why is that? the bios is the stock one that came with the card, is the bios fault or ?


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> so why is that? the bios is the stock one that came with the card, is the bios fault or ?


I didn't see you mention above but is your card an Xtreme or non-Xtreme?

You could try reflashing the bios. There have been times with cards from the factory have had a bad bios flashed onto them.

Boosting to 2088 stock is quite high. most high boosters out of the box are only hitting like 2038ish, and even then people that are overclocking are maxing at like 2088 or 2075.

If reflashing the bios doesn't work then definitely RMA it, because you shouldn't have to do all this to get your card working from the factory.


----------



## Himura88

So, is 1080 ti Xtreme edition
Gpuz- says

GPU CLOCK 1587 Memory 1392 BOOST 1701

Default CLOCK 1607 Memory 1404 BOOST 1721

But in games i have 1970 - 2030 so *** ? my card is underclocked ? it boost to high or what ? i saw that you guys uses other bios ?


----------



## Himura88

so can someone help me ? i have F3 BIOS and i want to make a bios flash to update it to F4 i nevere did that before can someone help me to flash the bios ? i dowloaded the bios and i have 2 folders N108TAXD.F4_Z and N108TAXH.F4_Z what to use and how to flash ? thank you !

i m using Display Port !


----------



## Benny89

FINALLY IN STOCK in my country









Ordered one:


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> FINALLY IN STOCK in my country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered one:


nice! got the pretty one, too.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> nice! got the pretty one, too.


I need that LEDs to match my black-red build. Normal one has too much orange around









Besides I just want to put PL to max, custom fan curve, no voltage and just see how max it can boost and stay. I have enough of voltage curves









Will do it how you did it


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> I need that LEDs to match my black-red build. Normal one has too much orange around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides I just want to put PL to max, custom fan curve, no voltage and just see how max it can boost and stay. I have enough of voltage curves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will do it how you did it


hell yeah, man. I got so lucky with mine that it performs like an Extreme at least.


----------



## Himura88

what psu do you guys have ? i put the f4 bios and same crash.stock the card crash i have to put it -20 core and -50 to run i will RMA this one.Lot s of people have this problem


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> what psu do you guys have ? i put the f4 bios and same crash.stock the card crash i have to put it -20 core and -50 to run i will RMA this one.Lot s of people have this problem


Most people that have been on OCN for a bit will probably have it in there sig


----------



## KJZ87

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> what psu do you guys have ? i put the f4 bios and same crash.stock the card crash i have to put it -20 core and -50 to run i will RMA this one.Lot s of people have this problem


I have the XFX P1-750B-BEFX. An 80 plus Gold 750w PSU.


----------



## Himura88

nonnac7 sorry i didn t know.....







now i know








My PSU is Seasonoc evo III 620 can this be a problem ?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> what psu do you guys have ? i put the f4 bios and same crash.stock the card crash i have to put it -20 core and -50 to run i will RMA this one.Lot s of people have this problem


EVGA G2 1000.

Order new PSU, change it. If problems is stil there- that is the GPU and RMA it and return PSU using 14 days that you have for it.

If it works- you PSU was at fault.

Or borrow PSU from someone maybe for one day if possible


----------



## Benny89

Btw. Anyway to paint copper so it doesn't loose its thermal value? I want to paint that Aorus backplate copper shim to red or black and I wonder what paint I would have to use for it so it doesn't mess with temps.

Any advice?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> what psu do you guys have ? i put the f4 bios and same crash.stock the card crash i have to put it -20 core and -50 to run i will RMA this one.Lot s of people have this problem


honestly that core shouldnt have passed gauntlet and should have been in a Gigabyte OC model.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> EVGA G2 1000.


same psu here. Evga G2 1000 gold.


----------



## Benny89

Can more people post their Cards inside their RIGs?







I would like to see how it presents itself.

Those ugly orange strips still bother me but there should not be a problem to mod them later.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Can more people post their Cards inside their RIGs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to see how it presents itself.
> 
> Those ugly orange strips still bother me but there should not be a problem to mod them later.


Here's mine until they release the waterblock for it. It's so big I had to unscrew the reservoir mount and leave the side of my case open!!! Loving this card so much. It absolutely destroys everything I throw at it on my 1440p 144hz g-sync. Even Forza Horizon 3 with everything set to ultra and 8x MSAA I'm averaging around 90 FPS, but sometimes as low as 70 in surfers paradise and as high as 140 in the outback.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Here's mine until they release the waterblock for it. It's so big I had to unscrew the reservoir mount and leave the side of my case open!!! Loving this card so much. It absolutely destroys everything I throw at it on my 1440p 144hz g-sync. Even Forza Horizon 3 with everything set to ultra and 8x MSAA I'm averaging around 90 FPS, but sometimes as low as 70 in surfers paradise and as high as 140 in the outback.


Nice! From your experience with card- is it possible to remove ot mod/paint those orange strips at side of the card?

Also the top copper shim on backplate can be removed, right?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> EVGA G2 1000.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Can more people post their Cards inside their RIGs?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would like to see how it presents itself.
> 
> Those ugly orange strips still bother me but there should not be a problem to mod them later.


aint nothin ugly about it, bro. You'll see when in hand. Plus RGB means you can have any color. In the case you wont see the painted accents. The ones right in the front maybe but those could be blacked out easily.

And that copper is the best part of the plate to me. Looks great and is somewhat useful.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> aint nothin ugly about it, bro. You'll see when in hand. Plus RGB means you can have any color. In the case you wont see the painted accents. The ones right in the front maybe but those could be blacked out easily.
> 
> And that copper is the best part of the plate to me. Looks great and is somewhat useful.


But can it be removed and painted?







Wanna paint it red if possible


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> But can it be removed and painted?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wanna paint it red if possible


im sure paint would work, it's plastic.

The copper plate will look good in any build.


----------



## tepusg

ok, ive updated to f4 beta bios. Looks like a different voltage curve less aggressive, with everything at default it hits power limit continuously so only boosts around 1850 1900 (gaming mode) Power slider to 130% boost to 1950- 1974. Cant squeeze anything else. OC mode still locks up,
However the performance slightly improved breaking 10k on Time Spy 10044. and extra 300 on fire strike extreme. Not sure why gigabyte went this high with box clocks, most card cant cut it.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> ok, ive updated to f4 beta bios. Looks like a different voltage curve less aggressive, with everything at default it hits power limit continuously so only boosts around 1850 1900 (gaming mode) Power slider to 130% boost to 1950- 1974. Cant squeeze anything else. OC mode still locks up,
> However the performance slightly improved breaking 10k on Time Spy 10044. and extra 300 on fire strike extreme. Not sure why gigabyte went this high with box clocks, most card cant cut it.


Because they thought their chips were better binned than they really were. No seriously, this Gauntlet BS is exactly that, BS. There are only 2 companies I know of that actually bin the GPUs, EVGA and MSI (back when they did Lightning editions). Also, IIRC this Aorus card actually has pretty crap voltage regulation despite being a 12+2 phase, something about using 3 drivers and 3 quadruplers. This may be influencing our voltage stability but I have no idea at Air-cooled clocks, maybe have to wait until someone watercools this to know for sure.

I thought mine was crap in terms of binning but yours looks a smidge worse.


----------



## jootn2kx

You guys should post also on which games you tested the card results
Because it really depends on what game, some games the difference in temperature is more than 10 degrees !

People who are claiming to get under 68 degrees with only fan speed of 52% i'm really curious on what game this has been tested and on what resolution?

Because my fan speed is always between 58 - 68 % depending on which game with clock speeds about 2000 on the core and 5950 on memory with +45 curve setting and +25mv voltage (for more stable clock). My temperature is about 68 - 77 degrees

Games I tested on with temperatures going most crazy are: Rise of the Tomb raider, The witcher 3 AND => the new game Mass effect: Andromeda (100% card usage insane)


----------



## cyenz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> You guys should post also on which games you tested the card results
> Because it really depends on what game, some games the difference in temperature is more than 10 degrees !
> 
> People who are claiming to get under 68 degrees with only fan speed of 52% i'm really curious on what game this has been tested and on what resolution?
> 
> Because my fan speed is always between 58 - 68 % depending on which game with clock speeds about 2000 on the core and 5950 on memory with +45 curve setting and +25mv voltage (for more stable clock). My temperature is about 68 - 77 degrees
> 
> Games I tested on with temperatures going most crazy are: Rise of the Tomb raider, The witcher 3 AND => the new game Mass effect: Andromeda (100% card usage insane)


This!

Witcher 3 maxed out at 4k. Good luck keeping below 75C and below 150% power limit.


----------



## Benny89

You guys can try to repaste your cards with Grizzly Kryonaut paste. Gigabyte doesn't have warranty stickers so you can do it. Here is a video of a guy dismounting Aorus (start at 9:15):






You can get 5C with that.


----------



## jootn2kx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> You guys can try to repaste your cards with Grizzly Kryonaut paste. Gigabyte doesn't have warranty stickers so you can do it. Here is a video of a guy dismounting Aorus (start at 9:15):
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can get 5C with that.


Agreed stock coolpaste is rubbish I repasted it with Artic MX-2 got about 4 degrees less


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> Agreed stock coolpaste is rubbish
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I repasted it with Artic MX-2 got about 4 degrees less


so what temps are you using seeing under load? overclocked? max volts?

is it true it can be taken further ( voltage wise )

if its anything like the 980 ti xtreme gaming.. it should be a beast









& finally is the xtreme worth it over the normal aorus?


----------



## ReFFrs

Spoiler: My Aorus problems list



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> Had very high expectations towards this card, but what I got is a total disaster.
> 
> My card is *AOURUS 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition* with latest bios *F4_beta*:
> 
> 1. The only possible "overclock" option is increasing power limit to 150%. If you try to increase clocks or voltages on top of it, you will definitely get driver crash soon or later. Switching to OC mode in Aourus Engine utility will turn into almost instant crash in games. Although Gamer Mode works fine.
> 
> 2. The card is easily hitting 79-80 C in most games (like Witcher 3 or Mass Effect Andromeda) with clocks going down to 1987 MHz. My chassis is Cooler Master HAF-X with 6 fans at ~50% speed and ambient temps are 22-23.5 C.
> 
> 3. The card is occasionally hitting the power limit (150%) in some harsh game situations and downclocking even further, to like 1800 MHz. It occurs rarely at 2.5k resolution, but if the resolution is increased a bit via ingame scaling or DSR, the power limit suffers as well.
> 
> 4. Loud coil whine starts above 200 fps, but you can already distinguish it above 90-100 fps.
> 
> 5. So far the only advantage of this card is rather quiet fans even at 60-70% speed and 79-80 C. However, at high fps (like ingame menus, looking at map or inside inventory) fans will be overshadowed by the loud coil whine.
> 
> 6. As shown in video provided above, this card has a low quality thermal grease and just by replacing it to liquid metal we can win like ~5 C (
> 
> 
> 
> ). Why Gigabyte is using such low level components in their top product?
> 
> I'm very disappointed by temps, clocks and the coil whine with this card.






I have RMA'd this card today specifying the "Coil whine" as main reason. Indeed it has the worst coil whine among 4 different cards I had over ~7 years. In some benchmarks and games the coil whine started as low as 50-60 fps. In most scenarios it was much louder than 3x card fans.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyenz*
> 
> This!
> 
> Witcher 3 maxed out at 4k. Good luck keeping below 75C and below 150% power limit.


with TG:K it's easy to.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> 
> I have RMA'd this card today specifying the "Coil whine" as main reason. Indeed it has the worst coil whine among 4 different cards I had over ~7 years. In some benchmarks and games the coil whine started as low as 50-60 fps. In most scenarios it was much louder than 3x card fans.


dang, looks like you got unlucky. Aorus software isnt good, though. Use MSI afterburner. My reggie aorus can hold 1650 core just fine , which is higher than Extreme's OC mode.

Also, I have heard coil whine exactly once, during Mandel bench at 4000 fps. I dont guess 4000 fps will be a problem in games. rma seems wise in your case. These should at least be required to hold advertized OC mode clocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> so what temps are you using seeing under load? overclocked? max volts?
> 
> is it true it can be taken further ( voltage wise )
> 
> if its anything like the 980 ti xtreme gaming.. it should be a beast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> & finally is the xtreme worth it over the normal aorus?


for me it would have been worth the extra $30 for the better backplate and the better guarantee of clocks, if gauntlet worked.... But after catching a card that clocks as good as most extremes..., yeah , probably still worth $30 b/c the "extreme" will help later with resell value, too. And the backplate is dope.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> You guys should post also on which games you tested the card results
> Because it really depends on what game, some games the difference in temperature is more than 10 degrees !
> 
> People who are claiming to get under 68 degrees with only fan speed of 52% i'm really curious on what game this has been tested and on what resolution?
> 
> Because my fan speed is always between 58 - 68 % depending on which game with clock speeds about 2000 on the core and 5950 on memory with +45 curve setting and +25mv voltage (for more stable clock). My temperature is about 68 - 77 degrees
> 
> Games I tested on with temperatures going most crazy are: Rise of the Tomb raider, The witcher 3 AND => the new game Mass effect: Andromeda (100% card usage insane)


gave a 30 minute Witcher3 run a go. i topped out at 64c, which is definitely a good 5c hotter than a 30 minute BF1 run leaves me at.


----------



## teisco

Just got this and using the Graphic Engine I cannot find any documentation on how it works. I need to know what the "active fan" and "passive" button does and why it says "fan stop active" and what that means?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teisco*
> 
> Just got this and using the Graphic Engine I cannot find any documentation on how it works. I need to know what the "active fan" and "passive" button does and why it says "fan stop active" and what that means?


Fan stop means that when the card is idling or under a certain temp the fans will stop to provide a quieter experience. I didn't mess with that Aorus software at all. Just used MSI Afterburner. I run 100% fan at all times because they are extremely quiet at full speed (at least to me). Can barely hear them over my D5 pumps. Keeps my cards under 50C while playing games.


----------



## Slackaveli

quietest fan ive ever heard at 100%. i have the fan curve kick to 100% at 48c, but i have it at zero at 38c, and the fans stop there and idle at 38c. Just so it lights up tbh


----------



## Dazog

I opened my card up and it had hardly ANY paste....

GO gigabyte....

I put on Grizzly Kryonaut

Massive improvement for me since I had pretty much no paste to begin with :/


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazog*
> 
> I opened my card up and it had hardly ANY paste....
> 
> GO gigabyte....
> 
> I put on Grizzly Kryonaut
> 
> Massive improvement for me since I had pretty much no paste to begin with :/


it's way better after. Mine was the exact opposite, it had paste hanging over both sides. Hardest part of the mod (besides unplugging those fans







) was getting that crap off.


----------



## Stealthster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazog*
> 
> I opened my card up and it had hardly ANY paste....
> 
> GO gigabyte....
> 
> I put on Grizzly Kryonaut
> 
> Massive improvement for me since I had pretty much no paste to begin with :/


Im guessing its not possible to use Kryonaut on ekwb blocks? I think I read somewhere not to use it with waterblocks.


----------



## Asus11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthster*
> 
> Im guessing its not possible to use Kryonaut on ekwb blocks? I think I read somewhere not to use it with waterblocks.


What paste are you guys using which everyone keep raving about???

is it the paste or the liquid metal


----------



## Stealthster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> What paste are you guys using which everyone keep raving about???
> 
> is it the paste or the liquid metal


thermal grizzly kryonaut which is liquid metal.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthster*
> 
> thermal grizzly kryonaut which is liquid metal.


no, kyro is the thermal paste, conductanaut is the LM
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> What paste are you guys using which everyone keep raving about???
> 
> is it the paste or the liquid metal


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asus11*
> 
> What paste are you guys using which everyone keep raving about???
> 
> is it the paste or the liquid metal


thermal grizz kyro is the best thermal paste, a degree better than gelid and noctua, basically.


----------



## Slackaveli

.


----------



## StarHunter64

Hey guys, the gigabyte rep on reddit gave more details on the differences between the bios:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/65dq21/aorus_and_aorus_xtreme_edition_gtx_1080_ti_bios/%5B/URL

AORUS GTX 1080 Ti

http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD#support-dl


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Default bios is F3?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheParisHeaton*
> 
> Default bios is F3?


i guess. trying to think what benefit i'd get. i can hold +77 natural or +90 with a couple curve changes. Can game for hours at 2050. Tell me what I would gain, please. I'm genuinely intrigued. anybody?


----------



## OneCosmic

What clocks are you guys getting on Aorus with full power limit during Furmark?


----------



## Slackaveli

i dont touch furmark personally.


----------



## Slackaveli

hey guys, Aorus Extreme breakdown.


----------



## jootn2kx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> with TG:K it's easy to.
> dang, looks like you got unlucky. Aorus software isnt good, though. Use MSI afterburner. My reggie aorus can hold 1650 core just fine , which is higher than Extreme's OC mode.
> 
> Also, I have heard coil whine exactly once, during Mandel bench at 4000 fps. I dont guess 4000 fps will be a problem in games. rma seems wise in your case. These should at least be required to hold advertized OC mode clocks.
> for me it would have been worth the extra $30 for the better backplate and the better guarantee of clocks, if gauntlet worked.... But after catching a card that clocks as good as most extremes..., yeah , probably still worth $30 b/c the "extreme" will help later with resell value, too. And the backplate is dope.
> gave a 30 minute Witcher3 run a go. i topped out at 64c, which is definitely a good 5c hotter than a 30 minute BF1 run leaves me at.


64 degrees with your fans at 100% I guess?








Try mass effect andromeda: Went Another 5 degrees more than the witcher 3


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> 64 degrees with your fans at 100% I guess?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Try mass effect andromeda: Went Another 5 degrees more than the witcher 3


i think so actually b/c my curve hits 90% fans at 58c and 100% at 63c, but i still dont hear them. Even my case fans are as loud. Not a bother. On FE, that was a different matter.


----------



## jjkfeng

Hey guys,

I'm a little concerned with my 1080ti Xtreme's temps. 18-20c ambient, no case panel, 4 case fans, no oc, stock fan curve, I'm sitting at 55c (idle 0% load) and 80c (100% load).

The reviews I've been reading says mid30cs @ idle, low 70cs @ load. Something wrong with my card?


----------



## cyenz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjkfeng*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm a little concerned with my 1080ti Xtreme's temps. 18-20c ambient, no case panel, 4 case fans, no oc, stock fan curve, I'm sitting at 55c (idle 0% load) and 80c (100% load).
> 
> The reviews I've been reading says mid30cs @ idle, low 70cs @ load. Something wrong with my card?


Mine is the same. Do a custom fan curve.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjkfeng*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm a little concerned with my 1080ti Xtreme's temps. 18-20c ambient, no case panel, 4 case fans, no oc, stock fan curve, I'm sitting at 55c (idle 0% load) and 80c (100% load).
> 
> The reviews I've been reading says mid30cs @ idle, low 70cs @ load. Something wrong with my card?


the fan on these is AMAZING in noise level and heat dissapation, but really only impresses at 90%-100%. Just do a curve for 38c zero fan, 45c=50%, 58c=90% 63c=100%, and you'll stay in the 60s (if you also re-paste with thermal grizzly kryonaut) or around 70c (stock paste).

I will say the paste is the weakest link on these otherwise amazing coolers. low fan speed perf is another weak link. But it is very strong perf with 100% fans, and really not a bother noise-wise. As far as repasting, it's 7 screws iirc, 4 fan/leds to unplug and it's exposed for a cleaning/re-pasting. Took about 15 minutes, half of which was spent on those damn fan plugs. One could actually re-paste without unplugging them all, as I did it that way and only unplugged two (they're a beach).


----------



## jjkfeng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> the fan on these is AMAZING in noise level and heat dissapation, but really only impresses at 90%-100%. Just do a curve for 38c zero fan, 45c=50%, 58c=90% 63c=100%, and you'll stay in the 60s (if you also re-paste with thermal grizzly kryonaut) or around 70c (stock paste).
> 
> I will say the paste is the weakest link on these otherwise amazing coolers. low fan speed perf is another weak link. But it is very strong perf with 100% fans, and really not a bother noise-wise. As far as repasting, it's 7 screws iirc, 4 fan/leds to unplug and it's exposed for a cleaning/re-pasting. Took about 15 minutes, half of which was spent on those damn fan plugs. One could actually re-paste without unplugging them all, as I did it that way and only unplugged two (they're a beach).


Did you use Afterburner or the Aorus software? Just wondering if there's a difference between the two (never used tried Aorus software before).


----------



## Benny89

But there is REALLY something strange with those temps as in reviews it was hitting same around 70C level as other AIBs. Same reviewers were doing those tests and the didn't bother with custom curves.

Something is really strange here. Maybe this is because higher power limit of a card?


----------



## jjkfeng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> But there is REALLY something strange with those temps as in reviews it was hitting same around 70C level as other AIBs. Same reviewers were doing those tests and the didn't bother with custom curves.
> 
> Something is really strange here. Maybe this is because higher power limit of a card?


Exactly! How the heck did they get those temps? Set the fans to 100% 24/7? Now im second guessing my card because of them.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjkfeng*
> 
> Exactly! How the heck did they get those temps? Set the fans to 100% 24/7? Now im second guessing my card because of them.


Here is reviews breakdown:

Hexus review - 71C max Temp

Guru3d review 71C Max Temp

Tech Power Up review 71C Max Temp

Also, stange thing with Aorus Xtreme. Having lower fps in same tests than lowered clocked MSI and ASUS STRIX cards. Can anyone explain how is that possible:


----------



## jjkfeng

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Here is reviews breakdown:
> 
> Hexus review - 71C max Temp
> 
> Guru3d review 71C Max Temp
> 
> Tech Power Up review 71C Max Temp
> 
> Also, stange thing with Aorus Xtreme. Having lower fps in same tests than lowered clocked MSI and ASUS STRIX cards. Can anyone explain how is that possible:


I get the FPS difference - silicon lottery. I'm guessing the MSI review sample had a luckier gpu that allowed better OC than Gigabyte's gpu one. But what I don't get is how they all have low 70's @ 100% full load.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjkfeng*
> 
> I get the FPS difference - silicon lottery. I'm guessing the MSI review sample had a luckier gpu that allowed better OC than Gigabyte's gpu one. But what I don't get is how they all have low 70's @ 100% full load.


But MSI is 2038 hmz and Xtreme Aorus is 2050 Mhz. The difference is 5 fps which is a lot considering clocks. So Silicon Lottery was better on Xtreme.

It seems off...


----------



## Benny89

How is your sag guys with this card? Does is sag by a lot?

Some pictures maybe?


----------



## mackair83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> the fan on these is AMAZING in noise level and heat dissapation, but really only impresses at 90%-100%. Just do a curve for 38c zero fan, 45c=50%, 58c=90% 63c=100%, and you'll stay in the 60s (if you also re-paste with thermal grizzly kryonaut) or around 70c (stock paste).
> 
> I will say the paste is the weakest link on these otherwise amazing coolers. low fan speed perf is another weak link. But it is very strong perf with 100% fans, and really not a bother noise-wise. As far as repasting, it's 7 screws iirc, 4 fan/leds to unplug and it's exposed for a cleaning/re-pasting. Took about 15 minutes, half of which was spent on those damn fan plugs. One could actually re-paste without unplugging them all, as I did it that way and only unplugged two (they're a beach).


Definitely recommended a repaste. I was getting 75c in gta v but after repaste I was getting 68c.


----------



## mackair83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> How is your sag guys with this card? Does is sag by a lot?
> 
> Some pictures maybe?




No sag on my card.


----------



## stealth83

No sag here either but it sure is real heavy. So heavy I'm worried about it sagging over time. Actually trying to find a way to brace it.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth83*
> 
> No sag here either but it sure is real heavy. So heavy I'm worried about it sagging over time. Actually trying to find a way to brace it.


Looks good for such heavy card!

I noted something. Around side plate where Aorus LED logo and 3 orange strips are there are 3 screws around it. Seem like after unscrewing that it would be possible to remove that plate? Thoughts?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackair83*
> 
> Definitely recommended a repaste. I was getting 75c in gta v but after repaste I was getting 68c.


How you could be getting 75?.. Was that 4k?

I don't get it. In ALL (all!) Aorus reviews card had highest temp of 71C during heavy load and lowest was 69.

I will definitely repaste mine immidietly after I receive it, cause I have a lot of Kryonaut paste.


----------



## Slackaveli

temps are a little higher than you'd think b/c the huge cooling area, including core and vrms. If it was just on the core it'd be a few degrees lower.


----------



## mackair83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> How you could be getting 75?.. Was that 4k?
> 
> I don't get it. In ALL (all!) Aorus reviews card had highest temp of 71C during heavy load and lowest was 69.
> 
> I will definitely repaste mine immidietly after I receive it, cause I have a lot of Kryonaut paste.


Maybe because I overclock my card? + 60mhz core, + 400 MHz memory and + 100 core voltage. Max power limit +25.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackair83*
> 
> Maybe because I overclock my card? + 60mhz core, + 400 MHz memory and + 100 core voltage. Max power limit +25.


They were also OCed in reviews.

Well, will tests it soon enough ^^


----------



## alucardis666

2 of these on order! Should have both in hand before Friday. can't wait!


----------



## stealth83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Looks good for such heavy card!
> 
> I noted something. Around side plate where Aorus LED logo and 3 orange strips are there are 3 screws around it. Seem like after unscrewing that it would be possible to remove that plate? Thoughts?


Yes looks like it comes right off.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> They were also OCed in reviews.
> 
> Well, will tests it soon enough ^^


don't worry, follow the plan. these are after three hours of battlefiled one witht he window closed, no tricks, just regular room temps and fan curve set. of course i kryo'd, i'd never nOT kryo...
anyway, here's the gpu-z. max temp was 57c i think.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jjkfeng*
> 
> Did you use Afterburner or the Aorus software? Just wondering if there's a difference between the two (never used tried Aorus software before).


afterburner


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> don't worry, follow the plan. these are after three hours of battlefiled one witht he window closed, no tricks, just regular room temps and fan curve set. of course i kryo'd, i'd never nOT kryo...
> anyway, here's the gpu-z. max temp was 57c i think.
> afterburner


Nice one. Do you play at 100% fans? Also could you give me maybe some graph (any GPU chip picture) how much around should I cover with paste? I know the whole chip itself but anything around it too? Would be grateful for info.

My card should be tomorrow. Can't wait!


----------



## Benny89

Btw. To hold max clock on max Power Limit- do you recommend flashin new F3 or F4 Bios. F3 Bios only changes default PL from 250W to 300W, which kind of not make difference if you sit at 150% power limit, right?

And F4 does what? Still keeping 250W at default with 50% slider, so basicelly stock BIOS?

I think right now it would not make difference, but I think F3 would work best for just holding max clocks.


----------



## cube001

I have the non xtreme one and I could hit 2050 MHz and at 100% fan speed and 100% gpu usage, the temperature stabilizes at 60C and power is at 113% (F3), however the core clock drops to 2012 MHz as the temperature increases towards 60 C and stays there. I flashed the xtreme BIOS and with different settings I managed to have the clock to stay at 2025 MHz.

Any idea how I can push this to stay at higher clocks?


----------



## jootn2kx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cube001*
> 
> I have the non xtreme one and I could hit 2050 MHz and at 100% fan speed and 100% gpu usage, the temperature stabilizes at 60C and power is at 113% (F3), however the core clock drops to 2012 MHz as the temperature increases towards 60 C and stays there. I flashed the xtreme BIOS and with different settings I managed to have the clock to stay at 2025 MHz.
> 
> Any idea how I can push this to stay at higher clocks?


Have you tried overclocking the core with the voltage curve technique? (CTRL + F in MSI afterburner)

@1043 mv you up the mhz, mine is set at +45 because my fan is only set at 60% I'm coming from watercooling for me more than 70% fan is too loud

For the rest try not to use more than +25mv with the voltage slider because this card doesn't like the old overclocking technique with voltage slider


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StarHunter64*
> 
> Hey guys, the gigabyte rep on reddit gave more details on the differences between the bios:
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/65dq21/aorus_and_aorus_xtreme_edition_gtx_1080_ti_bios/%5B/URL
> 
> AORUS GTX 1080 Ti
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD#support-dl


Wait what!? I flashed to F4 thinking it was gonna give me better clocks


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Nice one. Do you play at 100% fans? Also could you give me maybe some graph (any GPU chip picture) how much around should I cover with paste? I know the whole chip itself but anything around it too? Would be grateful for info.
> 
> My card should be tomorrow. Can't wait!


yeah, cover the whole thing and maybe the side edges, too (i did) but all the bits around it are fine without (probably better without) paste.

And, yeah, 100% fans is the way to go. noise wise it's like a founder's at 50%.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Btw. To hold max clock on max Power Limit- do you recommend flashin new F3 or F4 Bios. F3 Bios only changes default PL from 250W to 300W, which kind of not make difference if you sit at 150% power limit, right?
> 
> And F4 does what? Still keeping 250W at default with 50% slider, so basicelly stock BIOS?
> 
> I think right now it would not make difference, but I think F3 would work best for just holding max clocks.


im on F3, only reason i see to change would be if you get a bad overclocker and cant hold the OC preset, then the F4 bios will helps you with stability, but still should reach the same or higher max clocks, but keeps it cooler/slower when not needing max clocks.

**Anybody with the reggie Aorus tried the extreme bios and actually got better performance? besides just a higher stock clock.


----------



## cube001

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jootn2kx*
> 
> Have you tried overclocking the core with the voltage curve technique? (CTRL + F in MSI afterburner)
> 
> @1043 mv you up the mhz, mine is set at +45 because my fan is only set at 60% I'm coming from watercooling for me more than 70% fan is too loud
> 
> For the rest try not to use more than +25mv with the voltage slider because this card doesn't like the old overclocking technique with voltage slider


No I haven't, thanks for the suggestion, I'll try paying around with it. The voltage slider is locked for some reason, tried changing the settings but nothing seems to unlock it (It was unlocked when had my 980ti installed).


----------



## iamjjs

Hello, first time PC builder. I just got my card and it crashes when playing on OC mode. Silent mode is playable but I'm dissapointed since I can't get the most out of my card. I did update the bios with version 3 and 4 and I can get my power boots to 150% but I still crash on testings like 3Dmark and occasionally on the witcher 3. How are you guys overclocking it? ON the aorus engine or MSI afterburner? I'm trying to do it on either/both and it's giving me totally different readings. I also installed GPU-Z and will do some more testing.

1. can you guys post a safe but good core and memory clock increase that my card should be able to do? I got a score of 8,224 in time spy with Graphics score 9,787 on silent mode.

2. Should I use MSI afterburner or aorus extreme

3. what are your custom fan settings?

help a noobie out! Thanks.


----------



## Slackaveli

Aorus software gives the boost rating, afterburner gives the core clock numbers, that's why they are different. I prefer afterburner and just run with the best clocks that dont crash in games. and run fans 100%, helps temps, perf, and stability. no drawbacks. try afterburner with your stock clocks and make sure you arent crashing in games. just up power/temp slider and fan 100%. if you can game in witcher 3 for an hour, try adding +25 to the core and test again. repeat until you crash, then lower it by 12mhz and test. it'll either hold, and that's your best, or it'll crash again and your last pass is your setting then. example +25 =pass, +50=fail, plus 38= pass, than +38 is your best clock more than likely. If it fails, than the +25 was the winner. In my case I got all the way to +100 and it crashed, so i run +88 now. it has actually crashed once but i still run it. I also, though, have a saved +77 profile that i run in really demanding games to prevent a crash ever happening again and so far that one has held up to any testing. It games at 2050 and runs around 60c.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjjs*
> 
> Hello, first time PC builder. I just got my card and it crashes when playing on OC mode. Silent mode is playable but I'm dissapointed since I can't get the most out of my card. I did update the bios with version 3 and 4 and I can get my power boots to 150% but I still crash on testings like 3Dmark and occasionally on the witcher 3. How are you guys overclocking it? ON the aorus engine or MSI afterburner? I'm trying to do it on either/both and it's giving me totally different readings. I also installed GPU-Z and will do some more testing.
> 
> 1. can you guys post a safe but good core and memory clock increase that my card should be able to do? I got a score of 8,224 in time spy with Graphics score 9,787 on silent mode.
> 
> 2. Should I use MSI afterburner or aorus extreme
> 
> 3. what are your custom fan settings?
> 
> help a noobie out! Thanks.


----------



## iamjjs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Aorus software gives the boost rating, afterburner gives the core clock numbers, that's why they are different. I prefer afterburner and just run with the best clocks that dont crash in games. and run fans 100%, helps temps, perf, and stability. no drawbacks.


run fans 100% all the time? what are your afterburner settings?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjjs*
> 
> run fans 100% all the time? what are your afterburner settings?


here you go, the curve is my push-it profile, the other is my safe profile, and i have another with +103 curve tweaked for benching that passes timespy and SuPo and all that but will crash within an hour on Battlefield one, though.


----------



## c0ld

Does anyone play Playerunknown's Battlegrounds?

The game for me doesn't like any sort of OC, anything other than stock it crashes for the out of video memory error. Heaven and Valley are just fine with around 2050MHz clock and a long session on Witcher 3 staying around 63-66C temps with fan % topping at about 78%.


----------



## nyk20z3

I currently have a Gigabyte 980 Ti Extreme Gaming so this will definitely be my next card after the price comes down eventually. I told myself i would never pay $700 + for a gpu again enjoy guys.


----------



## iamjjs

I did the same thing but in Time spy, the first test crashes and after the test there are artifacts. Also, It doesn't seem even reach 2000mhz according to afterburner. What could I be doing wrong?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjjs*
> 
> 
> 
> I did the same thing but in Time spy, the first test crashes and after the test there are artifacts. Also, It doesn't seem even reach 2000mhz according to afterburner. What could I be doing wrong?


Ok, first things first:

1. You can't just copy someones Voltage curve and expect same results. Each chip is different, they won't behave the same way.
2. Start slowly:
- Set up Power Limit to max, Temperature Limit to max and set fans to 100% in Afterburner. DO NOT TOUCH VOLTAGE CURVE or Voltage slider.
- Get Heaven benchmark and start it with just above settings. Download GPU-Z.
- Start GPU-Z, go to Sensors and set Voltage to show you highest value like below:



- Next start Heaven and see how high will your card boost with only that settings above in Afterburner. AGAIN- DO NOT TOUCH VOLTAGE.
- Get yourself sheet of paper and pen and write down your highest clock value (when Heaven starts), your mid clock (in the middle of Heave) and core clock at the end of Heaven.
- Now close Heaven and look at max voltage your card was taking during that benchmark.

Now start playing with Core and Memory in Afterburner:
- Start low. Add +10 to Core and +100 to Memory. Run Heaven. See if its stable, how much higher did it boost.
- Stable? Again another +10 and +50 to Memory.
- Rinse and repeat.
- You see artefacting? Too high Memory OC. Heaven crash, drivers crash? Too high core OC.

Check where is your Max OC with just it. When you find it, run some games for few hours. See if card downclock itself a lot or only a little after few hours.

After that post your results and we can see if you need to work on Voltage Curve or not


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Does anyone play Playerunknown's Battlegrounds?
> 
> The game for me doesn't like any sort of OC, anything other than stock it crashes for the out of video memory error. Heaven and Valley are just fine with around 2050MHz clock and a long session on Witcher 3 staying around 63-66C temps with fan % topping at about 78%.


Some games are extremely sensitive to overclocks. Like they have internal parity checks or something that crashes the game the minute something minor is off.
2 examples I can think of are FFXIV, Ghost Recon Future Soldier.
I can pass Supo at 4k optimized on 2050mhz but I have no chance in FFXIV 4k unless I downclock to 2000mhz.
GRFS was also killer back in the day, game would crash at even factory overclocks for people unless they ran it stock.


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Some games are extremely sensitive to overclocks. Like they have internal parity checks or something that crashes the game the minute something minor is off.
> 2 examples I can think of are FFXIV, Ghost Recon Future Soldier.
> I can pass Supo at 4k optimized on 2050mhz but I have no chance in FFXIV 4k unless I downclock to 2000mhz.
> GRFS was also killer back in the day, game would crash at even factory overclocks for people unless they ran it stock.


Interesting... wonder if my OCs were stable after all and Mass Effect is suffering the same "issue" with my TXp and the 1080Ti before that.









Hmmm


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> Interesting... wonder if my OCs were stable after all and Mass Effect is suffering the same "issue" with my TXp and the 1080Ti before that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmmm


100% it was. mass effect... you must have missed that post. it's even in patch notes that the game will hang the driver. also, usually accomponied with an error message. game would have eventually done it to you on stock settings.


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 100% it was. mass effect... you must have missed that post. it's even in patch notes that the game will hang the driver. also, usually accomponied with an error message. game would have eventually done it to you on stock settings.


Well damn... Probably haven't been getting bad cards then... Seeing as how I've been testing my OC's with ME and Ghost Recon... UGH! Does Ghost Recon also do this?!?


----------



## Savatage79

Hey all, just working with my aorus and so is it safe to say that and Andromeda is just not a game to really get any kind of OC with this gpu already being close to its max out of the box?

I'm having slight issues with it all, at first I was getting a Dx error and now just occasionally locking up.

I was at 20 and 300, in which I could play a decent bit but then it'd lock.

What figures is this is the Pc game I'm in the middle of while getting the Aorus, and Andromeda just isn't the pinnacle of a technical masterpiece so I'm not sure if some issues are my gpu or the game.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Does anyone play Playerunknown's Battlegrounds?
> 
> The game for me doesn't like any sort of OC, anything other than stock it crashes for the out of video memory error. Heaven and Valley are just fine with around 2050MHz clock and a long session on Witcher 3 staying around 63-66C temps with fan % topping at about 78%.


I do and my card is overclocked to 2088, but spends 100% of the time in game at 2076. I played a 6 hour session the other day without any issues with an avg temp of about 58c. Witcher 3 tops out at 62. I did reTIM with kryonaut and it seemed to drop the temps by about 5c or so.


----------



## Savatage79

What's happening with Andromeda sometimes is upon load, it'll show the white bar full but the game won't go in. When I go to close it in task, it doesn't say not responding like I'd imagine it would... It's like it can't get over the hump.

I did at one point have a 10% voltage bump but that isn't advised from what I read here.. But could it also be my Psu not pushing enough?

I have an older corsair tx750w, maybe its part of the culprit.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> Well damn... Probably haven't been getting bad cards then... Seeing as how I've been testing my OC's with ME and Ghost Recon... UGH! Does Ghost Recon also do this?!?


havent heard that. but i think witcher 3 is a good test becasue it's just hard on a gpu but a stable game. and BF1 is a good test of cpu and gpu overclocks if you play high frame rate 1440p. I just know mass effect has driver crashes and those look just like driver crashes from too high clocks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> I do and my card is overclocked to 2088, but spends 100% of the time in game at 2076. I played a 6 hour session the other day without any issues with an avg temp of about 58c. Witcher 3 tops out at 62. I did reTIM with kryonaut and it seemed to drop the temps by about 5c or so.


same. and that kryo is great.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> I do and my card is overclocked to 2088, but spends 100% of the time in game at 2076. I played a 6 hour session the other day without any issues with an avg temp of about 58c. Witcher 3 tops out at 62. I did reTIM with kryonaut and it seemed to drop the temps by about 5c or so.


same. and that kryo is great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> What's happening with Andromeda sometimes is upon load, it'll show the white bar full but the game won't go in. When I go to close it in task, it doesn't say not responding like I'd imagine it would... It's like it can't get over the hump.
> 
> I did at one point have a 10% voltage bump but that isn't advised from what I read here.. But could it also be my Psu not pushing enough?
> 
> I have an older corsair tx750w, maybe its part of the culprit.


some people may respond to voltage but i'd wait until i found my max stable before introducing that variable. it can be good for benching and what not but for gaming id advice stock volts, sure.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> Well damn... Probably haven't been getting bad cards then... Seeing as how I've been testing my OC's with ME and Ghost Recon... UGH! Does Ghost Recon also do this?!?


Get the FFXIV free benchmark, loop it in 4k and if you can pass like 1hr then the OC is considered stable.


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Get the FFXIV free benchmark, loop it in 4k and if you can pass like 1hr then the OC is considered stable.


Didn't even know this was a thing. Thank you! +REP


----------



## murenitu

Hello people, I like it, I also own an Aorus 1080Ti Xtreme edition, well, actually 2, since tomorrow I'll probably be sending the other one and mounting an SLI.

Regarding the subject of temperatures after correctly applying the thermal paste not as in the video and managed to operate the card in OC mode 2000MHZ doing several continuous tests of Unigine Valley with fans at 100 power while maintaining a temperature of 54 degrees.

So please take into consideration replace the pasta with a decent paste or liquid metal.


----------



## mickyc357

Hey guys,

First time poster her from Australia.

I bought this card recently and am getting some similar issues to the guys here who crash in OC mode.

The only difference with me is for some reason I just get a huge performance drop after a few minutes instead. For example Heaven benchmark will wipe off around 1400 points in OC mode. Wildlands will lose around 20 FPS on average. While monitoring in GPU-Z the card will suddenly drop its TDP usage to 50% and run like **** mid benchmark. It also does this if I try to manually increase the power limit.

It will hit 2000mhz constantly out of the box in ghost recon wildlands in gaming mode with no issues however with the power limit increased it will hit around 2025mhz with no manual overclock applied, but again will eventually drop performance. Temps are all perfect. With normal curve it hits around 71 degrees. 100% brings it to 52 degrees.

Putting this card in my brothers machine made it reboot during Heaven benchmark and we both have 750w PSU's. (mine is an evga 750 g2).

Any one know what might be happening? Wouldn't mind squeezing a little more out of this thing if its possible.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Some games are extremely sensitive to overclocks. Like they have internal parity checks or something that crashes the game the minute something minor is off.
> 2 examples I can think of are FFXIV, Ghost Recon Future Soldier.
> I can pass Supo at 4k optimized on 2050mhz but I have no chance in FFXIV 4k unless I downclock to 2000mhz.
> GRFS was also killer back in the day, game would crash at even factory overclocks for people unless they ran it stock.


Yeah even a 10 bump in core with no voltage it hates it and crashes in less than a min of the session loading. I get crashes even stock with just the power limit to 150% hitting around 1.97GHz core clock.

Also it has a pretty high VRAM usage, using about 6-7GB at 1440p Ultra-wide.Not too mad about it, game is only been out for a month. Gotta give it some time.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nonnac7*
> 
> I do and my card is overclocked to 2088, but spends 100% of the time in game at 2076. I played a 6 hour session the other day without any issues with an avg temp of about 58c. Witcher 3 tops out at 62. I did reTIM with kryonaut and it seemed to drop the temps by about 5c or so.


Really? It annoyed me once I was in the last 10 and it crashed >









At least have got a game in being #1


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> Hello people, I like it, I also own an Aorus 1080Ti Xtreme edition, well, actually 2, since tomorrow I'll probably be sending the other one and mounting an SLI.
> 
> Regarding the subject of temperatures after correctly applying the thermal paste not as in the video and managed to operate the card in OC mode 2000MHZ doing several continuous tests of Unigine Valley with fans at 100 power while maintaining a temperature of 54 degrees.
> 
> So please take into consideration replace the pasta with a decent paste or liquid metal.


another who followed the script and was rewarded for it. Kryo re-pasting + 100% fans is ALMOST AIO quality cooling. It actually IS AIO quality cooling if you buy a pre-hybridized gpu. I was running about 58c on my hybrid 980ti before repasting and then it was about 50c. So, yeah, these things are amazing in the cooling dept. Also, a fan directly at the back plate (sp high powered, i use noctua F-12) helps a bit, too, b/c that backplate has a bunch of thermal pads contacting and it does get hot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Yeah even a 10 bump in core with no voltage it hates it and crashes in less than a min of the session loading. I get crashes even stock with just the power limit to 150% hitting around 1.97GHz core clock.
> 
> Also it has a pretty high VRAM usage, using about 6-7GB at 1440p Ultra-wide.Not too mad about it, game is only been out for a month. Gotta give it some time.
> Really? It annoyed me once I was in the last 10 and it crashed >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least have got a game in being #1


awesome. my best is a 2nd place where i had the drop on a guy and jumped out of a moving car and ran myself over. I actually havent played since that game, it's been 5 days now lol. That one requires a morning period.

*Oh, yo, I got a Flame, yo!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Yeah even a 10 bump in core with no voltage it hates it and crashes in less than a min of the session loading. I get crashes even stock with just the power limit to 150% hitting around 1.97GHz core clock.
> 
> Also it has a pretty high VRAM usage, using about 6-7GB at 1440p Ultra-wide.Not too mad about it, game is only been out for a month. Gotta give it some time.
> Really? It annoyed me once I was in the last 10 and it crashed >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At least have got a game in being #1


awesome. my best is a 2nd place where i had the drop on a guy and jumped out of a moving car and ran myself over. I actually havent played since that game, it's been 5 days now lol. That one requires a morning period.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickyc357*
> 
> The only difference with me is for some reason I just get a huge performance drop after a few minutes instead. For example Heaven benchmark will wipe off around 1400 points in OC mode. Wildlands will lose around 20 FPS on average. While monitoring in GPU-Z the card will suddenly drop its TDP usage to 50% and run like **** mid benchmark. It also does this if I try to manually increase the power limit.
> 
> It will hit 2000mhz constantly out of the box in ghost recon wildlands in gaming mode with no issues however with the power limit increased it will hit around 2025mhz with no manual overclock applied, but again will eventually drop performance.


Hi, can you please give us more details? What do you mean by performance drop? If you monitor your clocks and your card does not downlock during gameplay (like from 2025 to 1950, to 1976, to 2000, to 1920 etc.) then there is no way you can see a performance drop. This card can suck up to 400W from your PSU though.

If you see 20fps drop and your clock are alright, I would say this is game fault. Actually Wildlands are one of worst optimazied games I have ever played.

Try Witcher 3 and let us know after few hours how were your clocks.

Do you guys really do not hear difference between 50% and 100% fans?


----------



## Davekidd

'Sup fellow owners,

Xtreme version, NO OC (AGE or MSI AB NOT opened), 15-20 min into Ryse: Son of Rome in 4K DSR (3840x2160) and it crashed.

OC mode, same as most people reported here, won't run any game / benchmark without crashing.

GAMING mode, same effect.

SILENT mode, why would I even use this at an enthusiast level (Xtreme version)?

DDU before installing the new GPU (previously Gigabyte Windforce OC 1070).

Tried F3 & F4_BETA BIOS. Updated AGE to 1.04.

i7 6700k 4.6Ghz watercooled
MSI Z170A PC Mate MoBo
32GB DDR4
800W 80 Plus PSU
NZXT S340 Mid Tower
Dell 144hz 1440p 1ms
Displayport
2x 140mm front fans (intake)
1x rear exhaust fan
1x top exhaust fan
3x 500GB Samsung EVO 850 SSD
1x 3TB HDD 7200RPM

RMA'd the card today (Newegg).

*Question: For those who RMA'd theirs and got a replacement, how does the new card perform?*


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davekidd*
> 
> 'Sup fellow owners,
> 
> Xtreme version, NO OC (AGE or MSI AB NOT opened), 15-20 min into Ryse: Son of Rome in 4K DSR (3840x2160) and it crashed.
> 
> OC mode, same as most people reported here, won't run any game / benchmark without crashing.
> 
> GAMING mode, same effect.
> 
> SILENT mode, why would I even use this at an enthusiast level (Xtreme version)?
> 
> DDU before installing the new GPU (previously Gigabyte Windforce OC 1070).
> 
> Tried F3 & F4_BETA BIOS. Updated AGE to 1.04.
> 
> i7 6700k 4.6Ghz watercooled
> MSI Z170A PC Mate MoBo
> 32GB DDR4
> 800W 80 Plus PSU
> NZXT S340 Mid Tower
> Dell 144hz 1440p 1ms
> Displayport
> 2x 140mm front fans (intake)
> 1x rear exhaust fan
> 1x top exhaust fan
> 3x 500GB Samsung EVO 850 SSD
> 1x 3TB HDD 7200RPM
> 
> RMA'd the card today (Newegg).
> 
> *Question: For those who RMA'd theirs and got a replacement, how does the new card perform?*


Hi, try first to increase power limit to the max in AB, not touching anything else and see if problems persists.

God, so many problems with this card...


----------



## Davekidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Hi, try first to increase power limit to the max in AB, not touching anything else and see if problems persists.
> 
> God, so many problems with this card...


Thanks for the follow up. Yes, I did that. Core voltage (slider unlocked), power limit, temp target all maxed out. 0 offset on both clock and mem.

Yes, very disappointed with this card considering the price and the wait. Good thing both Newegg and Gigabyte are both local to me.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davekidd*
> 
> Thanks for the follow up. Yes, I did that. Core voltage (slider unlocked), power limit, temp target all maxed out. 0 offset on both clock and mem.
> 
> Yes, very disappointed with this card considering the price and the wait.


But try not to touch voltage. ONLY Power Limit to max, every other slider (maybe temp to 90) on 0. Voltache slider on 0.

See if it helps.


----------



## Benny89

BTW. A lot of similar experience from Newegg owners of this card. Crashin with stock settings and OC mode:

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125953

I should get mine tomorrow, got shipped today.

If it will behave like that, I will return and seek for other AIB


----------



## Emmanuel

My backordered Aorus is now in the "packaging" phase. I hope they're not waiting for one of you guys' RMA to arrive and just change the shipping label on the box they receive from you







Shuffling those cards around until it lands on a noob who doesn't know what's happening!

So to recap this thread, those who are lucky and have a working card:
-don't bother with the Aorus software
-set power limit to max and let the card OC itself
-don't touch voltages or clocks

The whole reason why I ordered this card was for the 12+2 phases and factory binning. What's the point of all of this if increasing the voltage even a tiny bit causes crashes?! Does this look like an issue that a BIOS or driver update may address at some point? May have to get a Titan Xp after all and melt the VRMs on it


----------



## Davekidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> But try not to touch voltage. ONLY Power Limit to max, every other slider (maybe temp to 90) on 0. Voltache slider on 0.
> 
> See if it helps.


Yes, I know you're going to ask for this and yes I did this too before unlocking the Core Voltage slider using the wildcard.oem2 file.

Some games can run with no problem with +5 clock & +85 mem offset, such as Watch Dogs 2 in 4K, all maxed out. Getting 2025Mhz clock & 5702Mhz VRAM @ 74 deg celcius max.

But for me, an $800 card such as this, shouldn't perform poorly / inconsistently.

I would love to hear from people who got a replacement card as I'm worried that I might end up with the same issue.


----------



## Davekidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> BTW. A lot of similar experience from Newegg owners of this card. Crashin with stock settings and OC mode:
> 
> https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125953
> 
> I should get mine tomorrow, got shipped today.
> 
> If it will behave like that, I will return and seek for other AIB


Yup, aware of those feedbacks. Best of luck to you. Keep us posted.


----------



## Benny89

Seems like this card problem is stock Power at 250W (other AIBs has 300W stock). This with addition of Aggresive and highest out of box clocks cause card to crash and throttle probably because of TDP limit.

Also from what I have heard AORUS has some problems with voltage bins.

However if you incrase PL to max and problems still occurs then card is faulty or bad designed.


----------



## Davekidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> My backordered Aorus is now in the "packaging" phase. I hope they're not waiting for one of you guys' RMA to arrive and just change the shipping label on the box they receive from you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shuffling those cards around until it lands on a noob who doesn't know what's happening!


Lmao that would suck.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> The whole reason why I ordered this card was for the 12+2 phases and factory binning. What's the point of all of this if increasing the voltage even a tiny bit causes crashes?!...


Exactly.


----------



## Davekidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Seems like this card problem is stock Power at 250W (other AIBs has 300W stock). This with addition of Aggresive and highest out of box clocks cause card to crash and throttle probably because of TDP limit.
> 
> Also from what I have heard AORUS has some problems with voltage bins.
> 
> However if you incrase PL to max and problems still occurs then card is faulty or bad designed.


Some users suggest lessening the GPU boost curve to be able to run stable. What a sad solution for such an "Xtreme" card.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Seems like this card problem is stock Power at 250W (other AIBs has 300W stock). This with addition of Aggresive and highest out of box clocks cause card to crash and throttle probably because of TDP limit.
> 
> Also from what I have heard AORUS has some problems with voltage bins.
> 
> However if you incrase PL to max and problems still occurs then card is faulty or bad designed.


If I had to make a guess, I'd say it's Gigabyte's gauntlet binning which simply is not reliable.


----------



## VinnieM

Seems that the F4 BIOS just came out of beta stage: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl

I'm currently running the F3 BIOS from the Xtreme on my non-extreme Aorus. Fortunately I'm having no issues, but there's barely any overclocking room left.
My card seems stable at 2000~2025MHz, but not any higher. Memory overclocks well to about +400 (which results in 6000MHz/12GHz).


----------



## iamjjs

Do I record the highest core and and memory from gpu z or the average?


----------



## Savatage79

Alot of this stuff is just newer to me, so I'm still trying to learn a bit.. Here's my main questions, I have the extreme model... Should my numbers simply be higher or is it silicon lottery?

I'm at about 2012 to 2017 at times, that's out of the box. 125 is my power max..

What are real world differences when it comes to 2012 to say someone rolling 2050+?

Does my gpu need that newer bios to unlock a higher power target or...?


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VinnieM*
> 
> Seems that the F4 BIOS just came out of beta stage: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl
> 
> I'm currently running the F3 BIOS from the Xtreme on my non-extreme Aorus. Fortunately I'm having no issues, but there's barely any overclocking room left.
> My card seems stable at 2000~2025MHz, but not any higher. Memory overclocks well to about +400 (which results in 6000MHz/12GHz).


If you have stable 2000-2025 you can start to play with Voltage slider and Voltage curve. See with GPU-Z at what Voltage does your card 2025 and you can start from there. It should be possible to get at least 2050/76.

Of course if you feel like you need it


----------



## MaN227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VinnieM*
> 
> Seems that the F4 BIOS just came out of beta stage: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl


came out of beta? f4 still says beta on that page? am I missing something?


----------



## Davekidd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VinnieM*
> 
> Seems that the F4 BIOS just came out of beta stage: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl
> 
> I'm currently running the F3 BIOS from the Xtreme on my non-extreme Aorus. Fortunately I'm having no issues, but there's barely any overclocking room left.
> My card seems stable at 2000~2025MHz, but not any higher. Memory overclocks well to about +400 (which results in 6000MHz/12GHz).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VinnieM*
> 
> Seems that the F4 BIOS just came out of beta stage: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl
> 
> I'm currently running the F3 BIOS from the Xtreme on my non-extreme Aorus. Fortunately I'm having no issues, but there's barely any overclocking room left.
> My card seems stable at 2000~2025MHz, but not any higher. Memory overclocks well to about +400 (which results in 6000MHz/12GHz).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaN227*
> 
> came out of beta? f4 still says beta on that page? am I missing something?


Might wanna clear your browser cookies / cache.


----------



## mickyc357

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Hi, can you please give us more details? What do you mean by performance drop? If you monitor your clocks and your card does not downlock during gameplay (like from 2025 to 1950, to 1976, to 2000, to 1920 etc.) then there is no way you can see a performance drop. This card can suck up to 400W from your PSU though.
> 
> If you see 20fps drop and your clock are alright, I would say this is game fault. Actually Wildlands are one of worst optimazied games I have ever played.
> 
> Try Witcher 3 and let us know after few hours how were your clocks.
> 
> Do you guys really do not hear difference between 50% and 100% fans?


It's a really weird issue. My clocks do not drop but my performance severely suffers (FPS). Almost like it's tripping something that throttles it's performance. It doesn't only happen in wildlands. It's also in heaven benchmark or anything graphically intense.

If I put it in gaming mode it hits 1.05v 1987-2ghz constant in heaven. Oc mode hits similar speeds but 1.063v and just suddenly drops it's FPS and tdp to 50% after a few minutes. In fact even if I just up the power slider it will do this. Clocks stay high. It will keep performance low unless I reboot.

I'm inclined to think it's power related but I would've thought my psu would be OK. Psu calculator with oc settings estimates 568w full load usage and its an evga 750 g2.

Let me know if u want any more details.


----------



## iamjjs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Ok, first things first:
> 
> 1. You can't just copy someones Voltage curve and expect same results. Each chip is different, they won't behave the same way.
> 2. Start slowly:
> - Set up Power Limit to max, Temperature Limit to max and set fans to 100% in Afterburner. DO NOT TOUCH VOLTAGE CURVE or Voltage slider.
> - Get Heaven benchmark and start it with just above settings. Download GPU-Z.
> - Start GPU-Z, go to Sensors and set Voltage to show you highest value like below:
> 
> 
> 
> - Next start Heaven and see how high will your card boost with only that settings above in Afterburner. AGAIN- DO NOT TOUCH VOLTAGE.
> - Get yourself sheet of paper and pen and write down your highest clock value (when Heaven starts), your mid clock (in the middle of Heave) and core clock at the end of Heaven.
> - Now close Heaven and look at max voltage your card was taking during that benchmark.
> 
> Now start playing with Core and Memory in Afterburner:
> - Start low. Add +10 to Core and +100 to Memory. Run Heaven. See if its stable, how much higher did it boost.
> - Stable? Again another +10 and +50 to Memory.
> - Rinse and repeat.
> - You see artefacting? Too high Memory OC. Heaven crash, drivers crash? Too high core OC.
> 
> Check where is your Max OC with just it. When you find it, run some games for few hours. See if card downclock itself a lot or only a little after few hours.
> 
> After that post your results and we can see if you need to work on Voltage Curve or not


here is my first three tests. 4.8ghz at 1.29 volts. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iXQNgLEZTUciht84jtfCNc2gB6S6TB41aleSURQNOqc/edit?usp=sharing . I noticed even though I can increase the clocks, performance goes down. I'll do some more testing later.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mickyc357*
> 
> It's a really weird issue. My clocks do not drop but my performance severely suffers (FPS). Almost like it's tripping something that throttles it's performance. It doesn't only happen in wildlands. It's also in heaven benchmark or anything graphically intense.
> 
> If I put it in gaming mode it hits 1.05v 1987-2ghz constant in heaven. Oc mode hits similar speeds but 1.063v and just suddenly drops it's FPS and tdp to 50% after a few minutes. In fact even if I just up the power slider it will do this. Clocks stay high. It will keep performance low unless I reboot.
> 
> I'm inclined to think it's power related but I would've thought my psu would be OK. Psu calculator with oc settings estimates 568w full load usage and its an evga 750 g2.
> 
> Let me know if u want any more details.


Ok, what is your CPU and is it OCed.

So your OC mode boost but with 1.063V. Then it maybe throttles on Volta. Try to put it to OC mode, and push Voltage slider a little bit foward, like plus 10/20 and check if your Voltage goes up in GPU-Z.

It is possible that your card have unstable high core clock because it doesn't have enough voltage to keep it there. Simillar to CPU clocks and Core Voltage. Although Pascals do not like more voltage like Maxwells, it varies from chip to chip so try give it a little more power. Little by little till in your GPU-Z your Voltage won't go up one bin for your max clock.


----------



## alucardis666

Well, got my card. Kinda a dud. First card I've ever owned with choil whine, or at least, fist I've ever owned with coil whine bad enough for me to notice. Thankfully I' sitting far enough from my case that I can tune it out and ignore it. The other negative is I can't do better than 2037mhz on the core and 12.4ghz on the ram









Waiting on the other to come in to test SLi. Overall my FE card was a better clocker, and this is ovbiously slower than the TXp. But the noise levels are good.

Dunno if I'll take the cooler off and try to rig it with my hybrid cooler. I think my pump in that is going bad, was seeing load temps with the TXp up to 77c the other night. a week prior it wouldn't ever get over 52c...









Anyway, dunno how to feel with the Aorus yet.


----------



## UdoG

If the card is unstable in factory OC - do I have the possibility to change the card? Gigabyte guarantees that the card runs in OC mode?


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> If the card is unstable in factory OC - do I have the possibility to change the card? Gigabyte guarantees that the card runs in OC mode?


If it does not run out of the box at factory settings, then it should be covered by warranty.


----------



## Benny89

I have spoke with Aorus Team and instability of their cards is caused by their software which overclocking card incorrectly in Gaming and OC mode. It is a software bug as they have said.

They are awaiting for a patch to be released. I have asked for ETA but didn't receive any info on it yet.

My card is waiting for me to get. I will test it tomorrow and see what it can do and how do I feel about it.


----------



## alucardis666

Here's my OC so far...


----------



## tepusg

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> I have spoke with Aorus Team and instability of their cards is caused by their software which overclocking card incorrectly in Gaming and OC mode. It is a software bug as they have said.
> 
> They are awaiting for a patch to be released. I have asked for ETA but didn't receive any info on it yet.
> 
> My card is waiting for me to get. I will test it tomorrow and see what it can do and how do I feel about it.


this is not correct I used afterburner with aorus uninstalled and got same bad results. The card doesn't cut the mustard. Some are fine on this thread but majority are not. Cannot overclock past the Gaming mode, so the +25 mhz past gaming mode causes crashes
it is not a software bug.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> I
> this is not correct I used afterburner with aorus uninstalled and got same bad results. The card doesn't cut the mustard. Some are fine on this thread but majority are not. Cannot overclock past the Gaming mode, so the +25 mhz past gaming mode causes crashes
> it is not a software bug.


I am just saying what they have told me. I will have my card in few hours so I will see if its ok or not. If won't OC and be stable I am returning it and moving to ASUS STRIX.

I will repaste it first though....


----------



## Dasboogieman

Guise guise I found a use for the intel stock HSF.
To the naysayers, the backplate definitely works as a heatsink, its just a matter of getting moar cooling on to it.



Dropped load temps by around 5-10 degrees. Also lets a nice breeze go around the VRAM area too. Now to get a more powerful fan....


----------



## murenitu

I'm not saying it does not work, but it's pretty ugly. As soon as I can pass through water


----------



## Emmanuel

For me the elephant in the room that no one seems to address is (from what i understand) why the hell does a manual voltage increase cause crashes? It's not new that some factory overclocked cards run unstable, I think Zotac had similar issues not too long ago with a previous flagship card. Maybe a tiny voltage increase is all that's required to get all the cards in this thread running stable. None of us would have bought an Aorus if all we wanted was to run at the stock voltage.


----------



## P3PoX

I sent my Aorus non extreme back yesterday since one of the fan was catching cooler... It was pretty ****y card for OC, 1924Mhz in heavy gaming. I get Aorus Extreme today and guess what?. It crashes in OC mode. Adding voltage doesn't help at all. I can see higher volage under load but it still crashes.


----------



## Benny89

Just got my Xtreme Edition Aorus.

I only get Power Limit to Max in Afterburner and went straight to Heaven benchmark with 100% fans (they are really quiet!).

Boost out of the box to 2025 Mhz on core. Droped down to 2000mhz during benchmark after 51C. Max temp during benchmark was 56C.

Max Voltage was 1.0620V during benchmark, max TDP was 104,5%.

Score of stock Heaven:



Now to find highest stable OC, then repaste it and we are done.

Lets see how this baby OC









EDIT: First small OC is very good. +25 on core and +200 on memory and 2025 stable (downclock from 2038) through whole Heaven no problem.

So far really pleased with card. EXTREMELY quiet I have to say.


----------



## Emmanuel

Sounds like you have a good card. People should start posting their ASIC quality so we can see if there is a correlation. My guess is the stable cards would be the highest binned ones.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Sounds like you have a good card. People should start posting their ASIC quality so we can see if there is a correlation. My guess is the stable cards would be the highest binned ones.


1080 Ti's actually do not have ASIC quality readings. Good idea though.


----------



## Emmanuel

Ah that's too bad. My xtreme is arriving Friday, gonna throw it in my brother's PC and test it before i bother taking my water loop apart.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Just got my Xtreme Edition Aorus.
> 
> I only get Power Limit to Max in Afterburner and went straight to Heaven benchmark with 100% fans (they are really quiet!).
> 
> Boost out of the box to 2025 Mhz on core. Droped down to 2000mhz during benchmark after 51C. Max temp during benchmark was 56C.
> 
> Max Voltage was 1.0620V during benchmark, max TDP was 104,5%.
> 
> Score of stock Heaven:
> 
> 
> 
> Now to find highest stable OC, then repaste it and we are done.
> 
> Lets see how this baby OC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: First small OC is very good. +25 on core and +200 on memory and 2025 stable (downclock from 2038) through whole Heaven no problem.
> 
> So far really pleased with card. EXTREMELY quiet I have to say.


If you didn't touch the voltage curve, you've got a decent gpu.


----------



## Savatage79

So I am sitting back and need to get up to increase font for my afterburner osd, but here's what I have... I'm running now on OC mode in aorus engine and playing Andromeda now for 20 minutes at 4k. I'm hoping I'm solid from here on out.


----------



## alucardis666

So anyone else's card hitting 80+C while running Heaven in 4K extreme or am I just lucky?

This was done with the fans at 100% too











On Auto fan curve card got to 88 and then killed Heaven... I don't get why it's soooo hot. On the upside card doesn't see to throttle much, I'm not really seeing many perf caps unlike my founders or the TXp.


----------



## KashunatoR

Can someone tell me what is the difference between the normal aorus 1080 ti and the extreme version, besides the LED stuff?
The normal version is in stock, the xtreme is not, so I want to know what I might be missing if I go on and order now. Thank you!


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KashunatoR*
> 
> Can someone tell me what is the difference between the normal aorus 1080 ti and the extreme version, besides the LED stuff?
> The normal version is in stock, the xtreme is not, so I want to know what I might be missing if I go on and order now. Thank you!


Higher power limit, 125 vs 150, more copper in the cooler, and RGB backplate


----------



## KashunatoR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> Higher power limit, 125 vs 150, more copper in the cooler, and RGB backplate


I'm better off waiting then. I hate low power limits. I also think there is another perk for the xtreme version which is the possibility to get one extra year of warranty by registering it on gigabyte website. Thank you!


----------



## snail555

here is my OC Aorus Xtreme, seems stable and tested Firestrike and Mass Effect Andromeda (much more sensitive to oc)


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KashunatoR*
> 
> I'm better off waiting then. I hate low power limits. I also think there is another perk for the xtreme version which is the possibility to get one extra year of warranty by registering it on gigabyte website. Thank you!


You're welcome







And yes, you're correct about the warranty. I forgot that part. But really, who plans to keep this card that long anyway?


----------



## Benny89

After innitial joy seems my card is pure overclocker







. Can't get past that +25 on Core. Also with Voltage Curve max I was able to get was 2050 with 1.093V downclocked to 1.810V 2038 in Heaven.

Guh...


----------



## KashunatoR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> You're welcome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, you're correct about the warranty. I forgot that part. But really, who plans to keep this card that long anyway?


I surely won't keep it that much, but it might keep a slightly higher resale value.


----------



## Benny89

*UPDATE*









Ok, this cards are ******! I was thinking that I have good card, no problem- it could run Heaven, boosting nicely. NO.

First of all, my card started to artefacting in every game and Benchmark like crazy. Even with stock Memory settings it artefacting now everytime.

Whats more- I just can't start playing games, especially BF1. It crashes immidietly after map is loaded and I am suppose to chose class. I got error about DirectX 11 failure/something and that card has been physically removed. Which means drivers crash.... Even on stock settings not touching afterburner at all....

So my card is broken and I can't play anything with it... Superb. Didn't have all that problems with Asus Strix or my 980Ti.









I don't know what is wrong with those cards but I recommend avoiding Aorus cards right now.

Super dissapointed considering price and waiting.


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> *UPDATE*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, this cards are ******! I was thinking that I have good card, no problem- it could run Heaven, boosting nicely. NO.
> 
> First of all, my card started to artefacting in every game and Benchmark like crazy. Even with stock Memory settings it artefacting now everytime.
> 
> Whats more- I just can't start playing games, especially BF1. It crashes immidietly after map is loaded and I am suppose to chose class. I got error about DirectX 11 failure/something and that card has been physically removed. Which means drivers crash.... Even on stock settings not touching afterburner at all....
> 
> So my card is broken and I can't play anything with it... Superb. Didn't have all that problems with Asus Strix or my 980Ti.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't know what is wrong with those cards but I recommend avoiding Aorus cards right now.
> 
> Super dissapointed considering price and waiting.


I feel your pain. Mine is a space heater.


----------



## Benny89

Every time I try to start game:



Card is going back tomorrow.


----------



## iamjjs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Ok, what is your CPU and is it OCed.
> 
> So your OC mode boost but with 1.063V. Then it maybe throttles on Volta. Try to put it to OC mode, and push Voltage slider a little bit foward, like plus 10/20 and check if your Voltage goes up in GPU-Z.
> 
> It is possible that your card have unstable high core clock because it doesn't have enough voltage to keep it there. Simillar to CPU clocks and Core Voltage. Although Pascals do not like more voltage like Maxwells, it varies from chip to chip so try give it a little more power. Little by little till in your GPU-Z your Voltage won't go up one bin for your max clock.


I did some more testing https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1iXQNgLEZTUciht84jtfCNc2gB6S6TB41aleSURQNOqc/edit?usp=sharing I think 12+ is my limit? lol

edit. Sorry I quoted the wrong quote.


----------



## alucardis666

So Newegg wants to charge a restocking fee...

So my 2 Aorus cards are now on eBay. The TXp is going back in the mail tomorrow... And I just ordered 2 EVGA 1080 Ti FE's and another hybrid kit, and I'm going to mount the two hybrid rads in the front of my case and swap the H100i out for a Kraken X42, CPU temps should still be very manageable. I just hope these FE cards clock well and have no issues.


----------



## VinnieM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KashunatoR*
> 
> I'm better off waiting then. I hate low power limits. I also think there is another perk for the xtreme version which is the possibility to get one extra year of warranty by registering it on gigabyte website. Thank you!


Powerlimit is the same. Besides, you can flash the Xtreme BIOS to the regular one









Tried the new F4 BIOS today on my non-Xtreme. Works fine till about 2025 core. Any higher and I get a driver crash eventually, no matter what voltage. Voltage at 2025 is 1050mv, 2012 drops to 1043 (which can all be configured using the curve in Afterburner).


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> Higher power limit, 125 vs 150, more copper in the cooler, and RGB backplate


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KashunatoR*
> 
> I'm better off waiting then. I hate low power limits. I also think there is another perk for the xtreme version which is the possibility to get one extra year of warranty by registering it on gigabyte website. Thank you!


The regular Aorus is 125% which hits 375w. Xtreme Aorus is 150% which also hits 375w. They are the same even though the power limit is different. Xtreme you do get an extra year of warranty, but clock for clock they are pretty much the same. My regular Aorus boosted to 2000Mhz out of the box just by maxing the power slider to 125%. So all that's really different is the lighting and a four year warranty versus 3 years.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davekidd*
> 
> Thanks for the follow up. Yes, I did that. Core voltage (slider unlocked), power limit, temp target all maxed out. 0 offset on both clock and mem.
> 
> Yes, very disappointed with this card considering the price and the wait. Good thing both Newegg and Gigabyte are both local to me.


WHY ARE YOU PEOPLE STILL ADDING VOLTAGE TO THESE AND THEN FREAKING OUT WHEN THEY CRASH!!! READ THE THREAD. NO FREAKING VOLTS. JESUS, NEWEGG IS GOING TO be very tired of you guys.

That said, it seem Aorus didnt get the best silicon to work with and their Gauntlet binning isnt up to the task at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> So anyone else's card hitting 80+C while running Heaven in 4K extreme or am I just lucky?
> 
> This was done with the fans at 100% too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Auto fan curve card got to 88 and then killed Heaven... I don't get why it's soooo hot. On the upside card doesn't see to throttle much, I'm not really seeing many perf caps unlike my founders or the TXp.


with thermal grizzly? that's not good.

If before re-paste, they probably missed half your gpu with the paste. mine was off center a bit. Temps are way way down with the Kryo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> So anyone else's card hitting 80+C while running Heaven in 4K extreme or am I just lucky?
> 
> This was done with the fans at 100% too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On Auto fan curve card got to 88 and then killed Heaven... I don't get why it's soooo hot. On the upside card doesn't see to throttle much, I'm not really seeing many perf caps unlike my founders or the TXp.


with thermal grizzly? that's not good.

If before re-paste, they probably missed half your gpu with the paste. mine was off center a bit. Temps are way way down with the Kryo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KashunatoR*
> 
> I'm better off waiting then. I hate low power limits. I also think there is another perk for the xtreme version which is the possibility to get one extra year of warranty by registering it on gigabyte website. Thank you!


power limits are the same, Alucardis666 was trippin.


----------



## Slackaveli

So, am I the ONLY one who got an Aorus who can start a run at 2100, and game at 2050+ down from there(2100) for hours and stay at 60c or less and not ever crash? How is my regular Aorus doing that and all your extremes and regulars are crashing all over the place? Here are my super stable settings' gpu-z readout.



I guess I won't really be recommending these with all these problems despite my good experience with it. Seems EVGA/Asus are the way to go.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> So, am I the ONLY one who got an Aorus who can start a run at 2100, and game at 2050+ down from there(2100) for hours and stay at 60c or less and not ever crash? How is my regular Aorus doing that and all your extremes and regulars are crashing all over the place? Here are my super stable settings' gpu-z readout.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I won't really be recommending these with all these problems despite my good experience with it. Seems EVGA/Asus are the way to go.


I donno, guess we just got lucky with ours...


----------



## Savatage79

My card is idling 50 to 54ish, but no matter what I set the curve to I can't get the fans to react. Using afterburner, what am I missing?

As to the post above, mine has been fine outside of the numbers seeming low for extreme. 2025 Is what I get in OC mode, but it's stable. Temps during game are low to mid 60s


----------



## nonnac7

I did get some new personal bests on SuPo and TimeSpy:

SuPo - 10529:


TimeSpy - 11041 Graphics Score:


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> WHY ARE YOU PEOPLE STILL ADDING VOLTAGE TO THESE AND THEN FREAKING OUT WHEN THEY CRASH!!! READ THE THREAD. NO FREAKING VOLTS. JESUS, NEWEGG IS GOING TO be very tired of you guys.
> 
> That said, it seem Aorus didnt get the best silicon to work with and their Gauntlet binning isnt up to the task at all.
> with thermal grizzly? that's not good.
> 
> If before re-paste, they probably missed half your gpu with the paste. mine was off center a bit. Temps are way way down with the Kryo.
> with thermal grizzly? that's not good.
> 
> If before re-paste, they probably missed half your gpu with the paste. mine was off center a bit. Temps are way way down with the Kryo.
> power limits are the same, Alucardis666 was trippin.


Well, if you have seen my posts then you know but...My card started artefacting in everything (at first it did not), benches, games etc. On Stock settings....god. Temps were fine, max I saw was 56C without even repasting. But then I could not start any game with this card. Drivers/DirectX crash everytime. On Stock, no OC, not even OC mode or anything. Couldn't play BF1 at all or ME:A or W3. Nothing, crash every time.

Consider how many people have simillar experience I have to say that GB droped the balls this round. I mean this is probably worse premium card release I have seen. If you read Newegg reviews, it is really common...

I have ordered 1080Ti Asus Strix.


----------



## stealth83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> So, am I the ONLY one who got an Aorus who can start a run at 2100, and game at 2050+ down from there(2100) for hours and stay at 60c or less and not ever crash? How is my regular Aorus doing that and all your extremes and regulars are crashing all over the place? Here are my super stable settings' gpu-z readout.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I won't really be recommending these with all these problems despite my good experience with it. Seems EVGA/Asus are the way to go.


I received a good one also, I dont get the high clocks as everyone else but I can crank both the volts and power to max and play any game or any bench without a problem. Highest temp Ive seen is 71c with the core boosting to 1978 dropping to a minimum of 1941. That temp is with kryo but I think I put to much because no change in temps so will redo soon.


----------



## nonnac7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> My card is idling 50 to 54ish, but no matter what I set the curve to I can't get the fans to react. Using afterburner, what am I missing?
> 
> As to the post above, mine has been fine outside of the numbers seeming low for extreme. 2025 Is what I get in OC mode, but it's stable. Temps during game are low to mid 60s


When you go back into settings, in the fan tab, is the checkbox not checked? Also, is the Fan speed Box not set to Auto? Make sure you exit the Aorus Graphics Engine junk before using afterburner as the settings/program most likely conflicts with Afterburner.These are really the only things I can think of that would cause the card to not use the fan curve.


----------



## Jinzy

Hey, i want to know how to test how good of a card i have cause i currently have the Non extreme editio nand want to know if i got a decent card. only got like a 9500 on suPO with a 6600k at 4.5 ghz but that doesnt seem that great tbh. my ghz would variate from like 1930-1970


----------



## alucardis666

For anyone curious what the difference is between TXp and Ti on Ryzen.

*Ti*



*TXp*


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> For anyone curious what the difference is between TXp and Ti on Ryzen.
> 
> *Ti*
> 
> 
> 
> *TXp*


Seems like totally worth of extra 400USD ! Average 4 fps more and lower max fps and 2 fps more in min fps.

Dam, I should have ordered Xp. Best deal ever!









/s


----------



## Savatage79

So I'm guessing I got a solid Aorus which is cool, ran Andromeda at 4k locked 60hz for a few hours and Temps maybe hit 70 once. I'm at 2025 in OC mode.

Overall I'm happy.. I wish Andromeda wasn't such a technical turdfest but still the gpu is nice and it's a shame to hear those who are having issues.

With that said I have my ftw3 still pre ordered and I have to at least see what the deal is with it when it drops, I been an evga guy forever so I can't cut them loose just yet.

What I absolutely love about the Aorus is 3 hdmi ports, I have 2 setups and need 2 hdmi as one is a Sony x800D for my monitor and the other my 4k projector. So it's nice since the dp to hdmi adapter I have doesn't push hdr, just 4k at 60hz...anyone know of one that pushes hdr also incase I somehow end up with the evga overall?

But this gpu definitely sweet, I don't think I won the silicon lottery with numbers but least its one that isn't crashing in OC mode.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth83*
> 
> I received a good one also, I dont get the high clocks as everyone else but I can crank both the volts and power to max and play any game or any bench without a problem. Highest temp Ive seen is 71c with the core boosting to 1978 dropping to a minimum of 1941. That temp is with kryo but I think I put to much because no change in temps so will redo soon.


make sure you did the spread method, not the pea. nice thin layer. It may be your temps are higher than ours b/c you may be the only one running at 1.093v with that slider at max.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> For anyone curious what the difference is between TXp and Ti on Ryzen.
> 
> *Ti*
> 
> 
> 
> *TXp*


that ryzen looks nice and you got a good one to get a strong 4.0 all core clock on a 1700. very nice, dude.


----------



## Jinzy

Currently trying to figure out if i got a decent card. I ran unigine heaven to get 2025 but when i open up SuPo i get like 1960 ish


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinzy*
> 
> Currently trying to figure out if i got a decent card. I ran unigine heaven to get 2025 but when i open up SuPo i get like 1960 ish


NCP settings effect SuPo scores. set it to off on almost everything and try again.

also, overclocked or no? I get between 10,250-10,460 with everything maxed out OC and NCP settings to off down the stack except for the obvious like using all 4 cores, etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> So I'm guessing I got a solid Aorus which is cool, ran Andromeda at 4k locked 60hz for a few hours and Temps maybe hit 70 once. I'm at 2025 in OC mode.
> 
> Overall I'm happy.. I wish Andromeda wasn't such a technical turdfest but still the gpu is nice and it's a shame to hear those who are having issues.
> 
> With that said I have my ftw3 still pre ordered and I have to at least see what the deal is with it when it drops, I been an evga guy forever so I can't cut them loose just yet.
> 
> What I absolutely love about the Aorus is 3 hdmi ports, I have 2 setups and need 2 hdmi as one is a Sony x800D for my monitor and the other my 4k projector. So it's nice since the dp to hdmi adapter I have doesn't push hdr, just 4k at 60hz...anyone know of one that pushes hdr also incase I somehow end up with the evga overall?
> 
> But this gpu definitely sweet, I don't think I won the silicon lottery with numbers but least its one that isn't crashing in OC mode.


that's good, man. I run at 2050 and mine is basically gold on these chips. You got a damn fine one. NOBODY is holding 2100+ without getting insanely lucky AND doing all kinds of modding and voltage locking, etc, so if you can A) not crash B) hold over 2000Mhz and C) run in the 60s on temps , well, THAT'A A WINNER. I don't blame you for giving that FTW3 it's day in court, though. Is a gorgeous card, too,.


----------



## Jinzy

@slackaveli uhh whats ncp?


----------



## Jinzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> NCP settings effect SuPo scores. set it to off on almost everything and try again.
> 
> also, overclocked or no? I get between 10,250-10,460 with everything maxed out OC and NCP settings to off down the stack except for the obvious like using all 4 cores, etc.
> that's good, man. I run at 2050 and mine is basically gold on these chips. You got a damn fine one. NOBODY is holding 2100+ without getting insanely lucky AND doing all kinds of modding and voltage locking, etc, so if you can A) not crash B) hold over 2000Mhz and C) run in the 60s on temps , well, THAT'A A WINNER. I don't blame you for giving that FTW3 it's day in court, though. Is a gorgeous card, too,.


Currently have it set to 1743 and 11360 for memory. I dont really know much about ocing i just moved sliders and stuff according to what the forum pages said. and set my max power limit to 120% and my cpu set to 4.5ghz


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jinzy*
> 
> @slackaveli uhh whats ncp?


Nvidia Control Panel, sorry. Just right click on your desktop.

and by 1743, i assume you mean boost clock, which would be about 1633 i think, at any rate thats a healthy OC, if you can hold that you are good. Just go try your favorite games and see if you are getting more than enough FPS and not crashing.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> So, am I the ONLY one who got an Aorus who can start a run at 2100, and game at 2050+ down from there(2100) for hours and stay at 60c or less and not ever crash? How is my regular Aorus doing that and all your extremes and regulars are crashing all over the place? Here are my super stable settings' gpu-z readout.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I won't really be recommending these with all these problems despite my good experience with it. Seems EVGA/Asus are the way to go.


Looks like ur the only one that won the sillicon lottery lol. Actually, after much pondering, all else being equal, if one can score a low leakage centre die chip then its a positive feedback effect because the stability of GP102 scales immensely every 5 degrees below 70 and the low leakage chips generate less heat to begin with.

Mine finally got 4k stable on 2050 (1.080mv) if the temps don't breach 60 degrees (courtesy of an intel HSF on the copper plate) but any higher is getting harder and harder to achieve because 2067 + 2075 (1.080/1.093) creeps the temperature towards 65 then stability becomes iffy.

The problem on Gigabyte's side seems to be QC. For the price point they want, the subtly cut corners in several places which is contributing to these issues:

1. Factory paste job seems extremely hit and miss, considering the stock paste is also crap. I went the full hog and used Conductonaut and the temps dropped by like 10 degrees.
2. Fan mounting tolerances, they didn't machine things to fine enough parameters leading to fans touching each other or insufficient frame padding leading to resonance at high fan speeds. If you have a look at my card, I padded the side near the HS + logo and the vibration issues completely resolved. IMHO, the centre fan mounting arms needs to be stiff aluminium instead of plastic.
3. GP102 die quality, I suspect Gigabyte got a discount batch from NVIDIA after all the decent dies were used for the FE editions. Gigabyte's bins seem low end-middling at best, they seem to be mostly high leakage units too which exacerbates problem 1.
4. Extremely poor quality control on the Aorus software + firmware

MSI were more conservative with their marketing and design but ultimately lead to a better card because the individual design points were simply better thought out and executed. ASUS has the QC and thoughtfulness exactly where the Aorus should be with the more aggressive Strix design but you pay a large premium for it (as it should be).

TLDR: I would still recommend the Aorus to friends if they're the handyman type to fix minor issues themselves, because the price/benefit is much better with Gigabyte than anyone else.


----------



## Jinzy

what should i disable? currently just set power settings to prefer max performance


----------



## nonnac7

Remember that clocks don't mean everything. There are some people in the 1080 ti thread that are hitting like 2100+, but there benchmark scores for SuPo and graphics scores for TimeSpy are much lower than people that are around 2050 to 2075.


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> NCP settings effect SuPo scores. set it to off on almost everything and try again.
> 
> also, overclocked or no? I get between 10,250-10,460 with everything maxed out OC and NCP settings to off down the stack except for the obvious like using all 4 cores, etc.
> that's good, man. I run at 2050 and mine is basically gold on these chips. You got a damn fine one. NOBODY is holding 2100+ without getting insanely lucky AND doing all kinds of modding and voltage locking, etc, so if you can A) not crash B) hold over 2000Mhz and C) run in the 60s on temps , well, THAT'A A WINNER. I don't blame you for giving that FTW3 it's day in court, though. Is a gorgeous card, too,.


Thanks bro! for benching in CB it's about 20-30% behind my OC'd 6950x @ 4.3Ghz. But in real world applications with rendering and gaming it's about 10% slower. I can run it at 4.1Ghz too with the XFR! But that's a little too toasty. And considering how cheap it is by comparison it seems worthy!









Plus it's using *1/4th!!!* the wattage compated to the 6950x. I'm very happy so far.



What's more crazy too was at stock values I was idling at 20c and loading at 38!









Ignore the voltage readings there though, that's bugged. It's actually doing 4.0 @ 1.3v!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> Thanks bro! for benching in CB it's about 20-30% behind my OC'd 6950x @ 4.3Ghz. But in real world applications with rendering and gaming it's about 10% slower. I can run it at 4.1Ghz too with the XFR! But that's a little too toasty. And considering how cheap it is by comparison it seems worthy!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Plus it's using *1/4th!!!* the wattage compated to the 6950x. I'm very happy so far.
> 
> 
> 
> What's more crazy too was at stock values I was idling at 20c and loading at 38!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ignore the voltage readings there though, that's bugged. It's actually doing 4.0 @ 1.3v!


it's got 65 tdp rating, right? Like my 5775c incidently. I noticed a lot less power usage, esp in idle, but at max, too.

Ryzen is pretty badass. Certainly for the money. And the power savings eventually pays for the whole thing. Crazy.


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> it's got 65 tdp rating, right? Like my 5775c incidently. I noticed a lot less power usage, esp in idle, but at max, too.
> 
> Ryzen is pretty badass. Certainly for the money. And the power savings eventually pays for the whole thing. Crazy.


Yup. Here's hoping the rumored R9's come out soon and really do have 12 and 16 core with SMT variants for consumers and undercut the crud outta intel. I'd *LOVE* to play with those if they're real.

But overall it seems like selling my old board and cpu afforded me to go Ryzen and SLi, so I'm a happy camper.









Less heat, more efficient. ~90% same performance.









Debating getting some 32gb 3200mhz-3600mhz mem kit now when DDR4 prices stabilize/drop. I can wait for the moment though.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alucardis666*
> 
> Yup. Here's hoping the rumored R9's come out soon and really do have 12 and 16 core with SMT variants for consumers and undercut the crud outta intel. I'd *LOVE* to play with those if they're real.


crazy how power efficient it all is. I was on a 980ti and a 4790k, so that's 28nm, 22nm. now on 16nm, 14nm my power draw at desktop is silly low. Aorus is idling at 240Mhz pulling 25w, and the Broadwell is idling at 4300Mhz but only pulling 14w total CPU package. That's sipping power.


----------



## alucardis666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> crazy how power efficient it all is. I was on a 980ti and a 4790k, so that's 28nm, 22nm. now on 16nm, 14nm my power draw at desktop is silly low. Aorus is idling at 240Mhz pulling 25w, and the Broadwell is idling at 4300Mhz but only pulling 14w total CPU package. That's sipping power.


I'm SUPER impressed with the power draw and the performance. And these temps are unreal. My ambient room temp is actually falling.









Check out these temps at 3.9Ghz *Might make this my 24/7 daily*



The 6950x was idling at ~40C and would load at ~77C. Crazy. And did I mention it was pulling up to 220 watts?!









*EDIT:*

Hell if the performance is there I might even switch to Vega down the road. This "blinking" HDMI/TV issue is driving me nuts.









Almost makes me regret not giving AMD a try sooner.


----------



## iamjjs

I'm going to do some more testing but how do my tests look so far? Kinda bad right lol. What else should I test


----------



## Rygar1976

Hello all.

I bought the Aorus 1080ti (non-extreme) and I have a quick question.

I used Afterburner to set the voltage slider so that 1.093v = 2050mhz. This seems to be the maximum overclock I am able to run stably with this card at this voltage limit.

I can game all day long and rarely if ever break 70c. Normally my temps are in the mid to low 60c's

I see that some people are flashing BIOS, etc.

Do any of these BIOS get us past the 1.093v maximum without a physical shunt mod? I had planned on putting this card into my watercooling loop but it seems pointless as this card runs so cool at max voltage. It has plenty of thermal overhead if you can get the voltage limit increased.

I keep seeing reviewers with "150%" power on their slider where as mine is limited to 125%. I saw somewhere that was simply an older version of the Aorus Graphics Engine, but either way you were hitting the same wattage.

Any info would be very much appreciated!


----------



## Savatage79

If a few could show their custom fan curves that'd be great, lookin to see what some have going on got some curve setups


----------



## Slackaveli

EUREKA. Guys, REMEMBER, I am on air, too. I did stick a heatsink on my copperplate and gained 5c somehow lol. that and the thermal pasting. Also, I will admit my computer's window was open for this30 minute session, but it's only 72f in the house so not really cheating there.

Here is my run in Battlefield One, two maps, ZERO PERFCAPS. I take back what I've been screaming about voltage with caveats. 1, know all your stable clocks at all voltages well before you mess with it. Also, these still hate 1.93v (mine does) and isnt all that great with 1.8, either, but if i run a +90 curve (which would be +179 on a founder's edition) and +51Mv and lock as you see in the pic, it doesnt crash. Gave me my highest SuPo score, too. And I just hat 142 locked in Battlefield One all Ultra except I run post process at medium b/c i think it looks better and gives me a couple fps. I was 142 lock, it only dropped into the 130s while in full sprint in a heavy battle 64 man multiplayer map and as soon as i stopped running it was 142 locked again. NO PERF CAPS AT ALL.

Look at those temps, that clock. Aorus [email protected]!!!



Good luck, guys, it took me awhile to figure this out.


----------



## Emmanuel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Looks like ur the only one that won the sillicon lottery lol. Actually, after much pondering, all else being equal, if one can score a low leakage centre die chip then its a positive feedback effect because the stability of GP102 scales immensely every 5 degrees below 70 and the low leakage chips generate less heat to begin with.
> 
> Mine finally got 4k stable on 2050 (1.080mv) if the temps don't breach 60 degrees (courtesy of an intel HSF on the copper plate) but any higher is getting harder and harder to achieve because 2067 + 2075 (1.080/1.093) creeps the temperature towards 65 then stability becomes iffy.
> 
> The problem on Gigabyte's side seems to be QC. For the price point they want, the subtly cut corners in several places which is contributing to these issues:
> 
> 1. Factory paste job seems extremely hit and miss, considering the stock paste is also crap. I went the full hog and used Conductonaut and the temps dropped by like 10 degrees.
> 2. Fan mounting tolerances, they didn't machine things to fine enough parameters leading to fans touching each other or insufficient frame padding leading to resonance at high fan speeds. If you have a look at my card, I padded the side near the HS + logo and the vibration issues completely resolved. IMHO, the centre fan mounting arms needs to be stiff aluminium instead of plastic.
> 3. GP102 die quality, I suspect Gigabyte got a discount batch from NVIDIA after all the decent dies were used for the FE editions. Gigabyte's bins seem low end-middling at best, they seem to be mostly high leakage units too which exacerbates problem 1.
> 4. Extremely poor quality control on the Aorus software + firmware
> 
> MSI were more conservative with their marketing and design but ultimately lead to a better card because the individual design points were simply better thought out and executed. ASUS has the QC and thoughtfulness exactly where the Aorus should be with the more aggressive Strix design but you pay a large premium for it (as it should be).
> 
> TLDR: I would still recommend the Aorus to friends if they're the handyman type to fix minor issues themselves, because the price/benefit is much better with Gigabyte than anyone else.


Hmm. That would suck.

With the little time i have I'm tempted to not even waste time figuring out if i have a good card and just refuse the delivery tomorrow and look into 1080tis in a month when early production problems are resolved and there's more info on which brands/models clock best. As far as I can tell these cards aren't beating the FE editions and are a lot more likely to be unstable.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> I had the Xtreme variant for a couple of days. Flashed the F4 beta bios to get the 150% power limit and ran a bunch of OC configs using Afterburner 4.4.0 beta. Sadly, the card was even unstable when I just increased the power limit from 100 to 125% or higher while leaving everything else untouched. I also tested the Aorus Engine sofware (hint: don't forget to update to latest version!) where Gaming and OC mode also led to crashes.


In fairness, I just got another Aorus Xtreme to try out and this one seems to be a winner, i.e., my guess is the binning is just not that reliable but this newer unit (also much greater serial number than the last) seems to be really fine









I did a quick and dirty OC test with the following settings:

- OC sofware: Afterburner 4.4.0 beta
- F3 bios (as shipped)
- Power limit set to 125%
- Core clock +30MHz
- Fan speed manually set to 100%
- everything else untouched

Results so far:

1. Run: ~15 min Heaven, core stays at 2066Mhz, temps do not exceed 55C
2. Run: ~20 min Time Spy graphics tests, core stays at 2050Mhz, temps do not exceed 57C

Resolution was 2160p in fullscreen for both.

Overall, this is a day and night difference in comparison to the first card I got to test which couldn't even keep 2000Mhz continuously in either of those tests. Again, my suspicion is that it all just depends on your luck of drawing a card with a decent gpu die.

*Update:*

With the settings above, I also ran Fire Strike for ~15 min, core stays at 2050MHz, temps do not exceed 57C.
Further, I tested Mass Effect Andromeda with max'ed out settings: core stayed at 2050MHz for about 10mins until the temps hit 60C and it dropped to 2037MHz. Considering my OC config is very bare bones, I'm quite satisfied. I consider to put the card under water, since the chip on it seems to have a lot of head room left.

*Update 2:*
Further quick&dirty testing by cranking up the core clock to +50MHz was also stable under all the scenarios above. ZERO crashes or rendering glitches so far, I'm still in disbelief.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Hmm. That would suck.
> 
> With the little time i have I'm tempted to not even waste time figuring out if i have a good card and just refuse the delivery tomorrow and look into 1080tis in a month when early production problems are resolved and there's more info on which brands/models clock best. As far as I can tell these cards aren't beating the FE editions and are a lot more likely to be unstable.


may as well try it out. look at mine....

nice card, @GNUster


----------



## Savatage79

Well I bumped fans to 100% to see what's the haps and man, barely can hear them. Andromeda at 4k maxed Temps at 54 degrees, held 2038 easily.

That is pretty damn nice for being on air, mid 50s I'll take all day every day.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Well I bumped fans to 100% to see what's the haps and man, barely can hear them. Andromeda at 4k maxed Temps at 54 degrees, held 2038 easily.
> 
> That is pretty damn nice for being on air, mid 50s I'll take all day every day.


I've got a similar experience with my 2nd card too. Now, I understand all those positive reviews from various hardware websites.


----------



## Slackaveli

Yeah, there just seems to be a few too many bad ones they ley slip through the cracks. I definitely wouldn't buy one of these "refurbished".


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> EUREKA. Guys, REMEMBER, I am on air, too. I did stick a heatsink on my copperplate and gained 5c somehow lol. that and the thermal pasting. Also, I will admit my computer's window was open for this30 minute session, but it's only 72f in the house so not really cheating there.
> 
> Here is my run in Battlefield One, two maps, ZERO PERFCAPS. I take back what I've been screaming about voltage with caveats. 1, know all your stable clocks at all voltages well before you mess with it. Also, these still hate 1.93v (mine does) and isnt all that great with 1.8, either, but if i run a +90 curve (which would be +179 on a founder's edition) and +51Mv and lock as you see in the pic, it doesnt crash. Gave me my highest SuPo score, too. And I just hat 142 locked in Battlefield One all Ultra except I run post process at medium b/c i think it looks better and gives me a couple fps. I was 142 lock, it only dropped into the 130s while in full sprint in a heavy battle 64 man multiplayer map and as soon as i stopped running it was 142 locked again. NO PERF CAPS AT ALL.
> 
> Look at those temps, that clock. Aorus [email protected]!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Good luck, guys, it took me awhile to figure this out.


Actually, I'm going next level. I'm gonna try and see if sticking an old H80i on the copper plate does anything lolz. If only mine clocked well lol.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> In fairness, I just got another Aorus Xtreme to try out and this one seems to be a winner, i.e., my guess is the binning is just not that reliable but this newer unit (also much greater serial number than the last) seems to be really fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a quick and dirty OC test with the following settings:
> 
> - OC sofware: Afterburner 4.4.0 beta
> - F3 bios (as shipped)
> - Power limit set to 125%
> - Core clock +30MHz
> - Fan speed manually set to 100%
> - everything else untouched
> 
> Results so far:
> 
> 1. Run: ~15 min Heaven, core stays at 2066Mhz, temps do not exceed 55C
> 2. Run: ~20 min Time Spy graphics tests, core stays at 2050Mhz, temps do not exceed 57C
> 
> Resolution was 2160p in fullscreen for both.
> 
> Overall, this is a day and night difference in comparison to the first card I got to test which couldn't even keep 2000Mhz continuously in either of those tests. Again, my suspicion is that it all just depends on your luck of drawing a card with a decent gpu die.
> 
> *Update:*
> 
> With the settings above, I also ran Fire Strike for ~15 min, core stays at 2050MHz, temps do not exceed 57C.
> Further, I tested Mass Effect Andromeda with max'ed out settings: core stayed at 2050MHz for about 10mins until the temps hit 60C and it dropped to 2037MHz. Considering my OC config is very bare bones, I'm quite satisfied. I consider to put the card under water, since the chip on it seems to have a lot of head room left.
> 
> *Update 2:*
> Further quick&dirty testing by cranking up the core clock to +50MHz was also stable under all the scenarios above. ZERO crashes or rendering glitches so far, I'm still in disbelief.


These cards are great man! What is your card feeding itself for voltage? Also, are you running 100% fan speed? They are VERY quiet. Any PerfCap Reasons in GPU-Z?

EDIT: FYI Mass Effect Andromeda has a memory issue with 1080 Ti's so if you get any crashing it most likely isn't your OC.


----------



## Luckbad

Meant to post in the generic thread


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luckbad*
> 
> Meant to post in the generic thread


active in so many overclock.net threads it just messes you up sometimes.


----------



## Savatage79

Andromeda is probably the biggest pos I can recall I recently years when it comes to the technical merit. This game is God awful on all levels when it comes to bugs, performance etc...just awful on so many levels.

And what's amazing is with all that said the ti can really run this game but you can still see the flaws, but it's definitely not the gpu. Best I think I can get is 25/400 on it, 2063 on occasion but 2038 is most of the time, Temps mid 50s with occasional hit to 60.

I gotta test other games tho, because I feel I will be able to push close to 2100 as I hit 2088 in Andromeda but only for a short moment before it hung the driver.


----------



## Slackaveli

andromeda gives me that memory error, too. and since im on a new cpu (Broadwell 5775c) thats kinda unique and quirky and calls for low power ram, and since i was running 2400Mhz c-10 ram at 1.65v of course, that FREAKED me out and I thought I was screwing up my cpu/MC. It all led me to undervolt my ram which turned out great. It can run c-9 2133Mhz at 1.5v . WINNER. but when it still crashed Andromeda, i googled and discovered it wasnt me after all. I have stayed at the slower but tighter and less thirsty ram setting, though. That was a nice bonus out of that ordeal.

But, yeah, only redeeming thing about Andromeda is HDR. Since I have HDR and had never seen it in a game before, that was cool. It's pretty sweet in that regard. In every other way- TRASH.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> In fairness, I just got another Aorus Xtreme to try out and this one seems to be a winner, i.e., my guess is the binning is just not that reliable but this newer unit (also much greater serial number than the last) seems to be really fine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did a quick and dirty OC test with the following settings:
> 
> - OC sofware: Afterburner 4.4.0 beta
> - F3 bios (as shipped)
> - Power limit set to 125%
> - Core clock +30MHz
> - Fan speed manually set to 100%
> - everything else untouched
> 
> Results so far:
> 
> 1. Run: ~15 min Heaven, core stays at 2066Mhz, temps do not exceed 55C
> 2. Run: ~20 min Time Spy graphics tests, core stays at 2050Mhz, temps do not exceed 57C
> 
> Resolution was 2160p in fullscreen for both.
> 
> Overall, this is a day and night difference in comparison to the first card I got to test which couldn't even keep 2000Mhz continuously in either of those tests. Again, my suspicion is that it all just depends on your luck of drawing a card with a decent gpu die.
> 
> *Update:*
> 
> With the settings above, I also ran Fire Strike for ~15 min, core stays at 2050MHz, temps do not exceed 57C.
> Further, I tested Mass Effect Andromeda with max'ed out settings: core stayed at 2050MHz for about 10mins until the temps hit 60C and it dropped to 2037MHz. Considering my OC config is very bare bones, I'm quite satisfied. I consider to put the card under water, since the chip on it seems to have a lot of head room left.
> 
> *Update 2:*
> Further quick&dirty testing by cranking up the core clock to +50MHz was also stable under all the scenarios above. ZERO crashes or rendering glitches so far, I'm still in disbelief.


I ran now several tests with +60 for core clock and +400 for memory clock. All stable and 3dmark time spy/fire strike boosts to 2088 and eventually drops to 2075 when it hits 50C with max temps still at ~55C with fan speed at 100%.
I also ran Fire Strike with core clock +70 and it boosted to 2100Mhz and stayed there for ~30s until it crashed. Since I didn't touch any voltage OC settings whatsoever yet, this card might most likely be able to run consistently at 2100 clock speed in 3Dmark under water. I'll try that when I find the time.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> I ran now several tests with +60 for core clock and +400 for memory clock. All stable and 3dmark time spy/fire strike boosts to 2088 and eventually drops to 2075 when it hits 50C with max temps still at ~55C with fan speed at 100%.
> I also ran Fire Strike with core clock +70 and it boosted to 2100Mhz and stayed there for ~30s until it crashed. Since I didn't touch any voltage OC settings whatsoever yet, this card might most likely be able to run consistently at 2100 clock speed in 3Dmark under water. I'll try that when I find the time.


What voltage is the card feeding itself? Have you checked for PerCap reasons in GPU-Z?


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What voltage is the card feeding itself? Have you checked for PerCap reasons in GPU-Z?


The card used 1.0620v or less, 99% of the time it sat at 1.05v. The clock rate drops from 2088 to 2075Mhz with PerCap Vrel and occasionally Pwr. When I get into serious overclocking, I'll also try out the F4 bios for the higher power limit.


----------



## zlatanselvic

Has anyone figured out how to get the RGB's to work without using the AORUS software? I use MSI Afterburner for my OC.

Thanks all in advance this was a super helpful thread.

I have the non extreme card - works great!

I set power limit to 120%
Core clock: 50 MHZz
Memory: 450 Mhz

The clock stays at 2038 consistently.

Max Temp is 60 Celsius with this fan profile:


----------



## Savatage79

False alarm,whew


----------



## Qba73

Slack I tried the fan on top of the heat plate and stayed at 64c lol no downclock from 2075 new high for me on supo (reg fans at 70%) imagine I put on some kryonaut.

game stable too (which is the most important bench imho)

before I was 2050 at 68-71

FTW3 comes to my door in less than 2 weeks, gonna be a fight.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> The card used 1.0620v or less, 99% of the time it sat at 1.05v. The clock rate drops from 2088 to 2075Mhz with PerCap Vrel and occasionally Pwr. When I get into serious overclocking, I'll also try out the F4 bios for the higher power limit.


Well the F4 has a higher power limit, but both card max at 375w. It's just a difference in default wattage. Looks like you have a good card! I get similar performance. I settled at a daily of 2063 @ 1.042v (which eventually jumps up to 1.063v after gaming for a while. The card doesn't do well underclocked though. I only get a Vrel Perfcap which I just ignore it since the card is perfectly stable. Once the water block is released for the card I'll actually push the limits and see what the card can do. Although I get great temps though. This is by far the coolest card I've ever used with an air cooler. Highest temps I see is 55C while heavy benchmarking, but while gaming I'm usually around 45C-50C. I think I got a perfectly TIM'd card. I also run the fans at 100% and they are barely louder than my two D5 pumps.

I'm still super surprised by the performance increase with this card compared to my 980 Ti. It's ridiculous. With everything maxed out in Forza Horizon 3 with 8x MSAA I'm getting 130-144 FPS in the Outback. I get an average of 90-120 in Surfers Paradise with some drops to 70 FPS around the Tram station. The only game that is just poorly optimized IMO (although an amazing game) is Tom Clancys's Wildlands. I had to turn shadows to medium, use FXAA, and turn off subsurface scattering and all those of effects like that to maintain a stable 70-90 FPS which some quick dips into the lower 50's. Although Deus EX MD runs fantastic. I hit 144hz in the subway with every setting maxed and around 100 FPS around Prague.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zlatanselvic*
> 
> Has anyone figured out how to get the RGB's to work without using the AORUS software? I use MSI Afterburner for my OC.
> 
> Thanks all in advance this was a super helpful thread.
> 
> I have the non extreme card - works great!
> 
> I set power limit to 120%
> Core clock: 50 MHZz
> Memory: 450 Mhz
> 
> The clock stays at 2038 consistently.
> 
> Max Temp is 60 Celsius with this fan profile:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Nice! What voltage is the card feeding itself at 2038? Also, your RGB's aren't working on? There are no lights at all? That's strange. I have a regular Aorus and use MSI AB, but the RGB's work fine. Haven't even used the Aorus software at all.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> Slack I tried the fan on top of the heat plate and stayed at 64c lol no downclock from 2075 new high for me on supo (reg fans at 70%) imagine I put on some kryonaut.
> 
> game stable too (which is the most important bench imho)
> 
> before I was 2050 at 68-71
> 
> FTW3 comes to my door in less than 2 weeks, gonna be a fight.


ftw will probably lose that fight tbh. especially if you Kryo...


----------



## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> ftw will probably lose that fight tbh. especially if you Kryo...


You may be right on that. Will keep you updated. Thanks for the help brother, your a good man Charlie Brown


----------



## Dasboogieman

Cooling mod Mk2

I cannibalised an old Palit Twin Fan GTX 570 heatsink. Now the core backplate + VRAM gets solid copper block cooling. Temps now hold steady at 60 degrees when running Supo 8K. Everything else doesn't break 55 degrees. Basically an additional 10 degree improvement on the Intel HSF mod.

I'm taking delivery of a dead Quadro Single slot GPU in a few weeks, cant wait to see this thing with a sexy blower on top.


----------



## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling mod Mk2
> 
> I cannibalised an old Palit Twin Fan GTX 570 heatsink. Now the core backplate + VRAM gets solid copper block cooling. Temps now hold steady at 60 degrees when running Supo 8K. Everything else doesn't break 55 degrees. Basically an additional 10 degree improvement on the Intel HSF mod.
> 
> I'm taking delivery of a dead Quadro Single slot GPU in a few weeks, cant wait to see this thing with a sexy blower on top.


I did the same, really helps with temps, frankencards ;-)


----------



## Qba73

BTW I posted this is the 1080ti general thread, figure I post it here too as not as many pages as the general forum

for anyone interested

4.4.0 beta 7 ;-) ... I tried changing url from 6 to 7 and it works. nothing any higher though

http://office.guru3d.com/afterburner/MSIAfterburnerSetup440Beta7.rar


----------



## Savatage79

Well I'm officially impressed with the cooler that Aorus has here. I been around some hot ass cards in recent years and the fact I'm playing Andromeda at 4k smooth as silk locked 60hz, with my Temps staying mid 50s and maybe sometimes maybe cracking 60, is pretty incredible.

So I'm only hanging onto the evga pre order because it's been my go to gpu for years now, but I got a feeling I'm keeping my Aorus.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> You may be right on that. Will keep you updated. Thanks for the help brother, your a good man Charlie Brown


----------



## iamjjs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 
> 
> Cooling mod Mk2
> 
> I cannibalised an old Palit Twin Fan GTX 570 heatsink. Now the core backplate + VRAM gets solid copper block cooling. Temps now hold steady at 60 degrees when running Supo 8K. Everything else doesn't break 55 degrees. Basically an additional 10 degree improvement on the Intel HSF mod.
> 
> I'm taking delivery of a dead Quadro Single slot GPU in a few weeks, cant wait to see this thing with a sexy blower on top.


are u suppose to keep the orange plastic things on?


----------



## TheNoseKnows

Those cover the SLI fingers and might as well be left on when in a single card configuration.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamjjs*
> 
> are u suppose to keep the orange plastic things on?


Look at the space in my case lol, I'm never going to SLI due to space alone. So might as well keep the orange plugs on to keep the SLI fingers nice and shiny.


----------



## mackair83

Brought a fan and place it over the copper on the backplate. Temparature reduce from 67c to 63c.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Well the F4 has a higher power limit, but both card max at 375w. It's just a difference in default wattage. Looks like you have a good card! I get similar performance. I settled at a daily of 2063 @ 1.042v (which eventually jumps up to 1.063v after gaming for a while. The card doesn't do well underclocked though. I only get a Vrel Perfcap which I just ignore it since the card is perfectly stable. Once the water block is released for the card I'll actually push the limits and see what the card can do. Although I get great temps though. This is by far the coolest card I've ever used with an air cooler.


F3 BIOS is better suited for overclocking, F4 is for power savings and stability the %'s don't mean anything when they both top 375W on both profiles. The F3 has a higher default TGP. On water you'll hit a wall at 2100Mhz it's the architecture that's the limit. You're just gonna get better temps going water.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> F3 BIOS is better suited for overclocking, F4 is for power savings and stability the %'s don't mean anything when they both top 375W on both profiles. The F3 has a higher default TGP. On water you'll hit a wall at 2100Mhz it's the architecture that's the limit. You're just gonna get better temps going water.


Yep and that's exactly why I haven't flashed the F4. Totally satisfied with my clocks. I don't expect much higher clocks under water, I just want to get this thing as cool as possible so I'm not dropping bins. Although, I do have a pretty solid overclock right now. 2063 @ 1.063v never drops bins while playing games. Only benches drop the clock down to 2050. I don't even expect to hit that 2100 clock, but I'll try. I just don't have any interest in running 1.093v daily. Pretty happy with where I'm at now. Just need EK to released that water block and I'll throw some Fujipoly thermal pads and kryonaut TIM on it to get the lowest temps possible. I have a 30mm thick 240mm rad, a 45mm thick 360mm rad, and a monsta 80mm thick 420mm rad so temps should be nice since the only other thing that's under water is my delidded 6700k @ 4.7Ghz. Running dual D5 pumps.

I just wish I knew what size thermal pads they are going to use on the Aorus block so I can order the thermal pads. Hmm, maybe I'll ask in the EK thread.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> BTW I posted this is the 1080ti general thread, figure I post it here too as not as many pages as the general forum
> 
> for anyone interested
> 
> 4.4.0 beta 7 ;-) ... I tried changing url from 6 to 7 and it works. nothing any higher though
> 
> http://office.guru3d.com/afterburner/MSIAfterburnerSetup440Beta7.rar


in the main Ti thread they were warning about glitches w/ Beta 7. you may wanna roll that back to beta 6.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yep and that's exactly why I haven't flashed the F4. Totally satisfied with my clocks. I don't expect much higher clocks under water, I just want to get this thing as cool as possible so I'm not dropping bins. Although, I do have a pretty solid overclock right now. 2063 @ 1.063v never drops bins while playing games. Only benches drop the clock down to 2050. I don't even expect to hit that 2100 clock, but I'll try. I just don't have any interest in running 1.093v daily. Pretty happy with where I'm at now. Just need EK to released that water block and I'll throw some Fujipoly thermal pads and kryonaut TIM on it to get the lowest temps possible. I have a 30mm thick 240mm rad, a 45mm thick 360mm rad, and a monsta 80mm thick 420mm rad so temps should be nice since the only other thing that's under water is my delidded 6700k @ 4.7Ghz. Running dual D5 pumps.
> 
> I just wish I knew what size thermal pads they are going to use on the Aorus block so I can order the thermal pads. Hmm, maybe I'll ask in the EK thread.


i concur. no need to go lower power unless you have a bad overclocker; llike the ones struggling w/ 2000Mhz may prefer the F4.


----------



## Stealthster

.[/quoteI just wish I knew what size thermal pads they are going to use on the Aorus block so I can order the thermal pads. Hmm, maybe I'll ask in the EK thread.[/quote
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yep and that's exactly why I haven't flashed the F4. Totally satisfied with my clocks. I don't expect much higher clocks under water, I just want to get this thing as cool as possible so I'm not dropping bins. Although, I do have a pretty solid overclock right now. 2063 @ 1.063v never drops bins while playing games. Only benches drop the clock down to 2050. I don't even expect to hit that 2100 clock, but I'll try. I just don't have any interest in running 1.093v daily. Pretty happy with where I'm at now. Just need EK to released that water block and I'll throw some Fujipoly thermal pads and kryonaut TIM on it to get the lowest temps possible. I have a 30mm thick 240mm rad, a 45mm thick 360mm rad, and a monsta 80mm thick 420mm rad so temps should be nice since the only other thing that's under water is my delidded 6700k @ 4.7Ghz. Running dual D5 pumps.


Can you give some more info on the Fujipoly thermal pads. Where would one order from in USA and which model number? What are the thermals compared to EK? I am also waiting EK to release the block.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealthster*
> 
> Can you give some more info on the Fujipoly thermal pads. Where would one order from in USA and which model number? What are the thermals compared to EK? I am also waiting EK to release the block.


Fujipoly makes the best thermal pads period. I use them on all my blocks. Their ultra extreme pads are 17W/mK heat transfer which is top of the line. I couldn't find both the 1.0mm and 0.5mm Ultra Extreme pads in quarter sheets, only in 60mmx50mm which is pretty small. So I settled with the next step down which is the Extreme varient with 11W/mK heat transfer. So now those are ordered and I just need to order some Kryonaut for the GPU core. For some reason Frozen CPU doesn't carry it so I'll just order if from Performance-PCS when I order the waterblock from them.

Here are links to what I ordered. BTW this stuff is like clay so be careful handling it, it can easily rip.

1mm Thick

0.5mm Thick


----------



## UdoG

I installed my Xtreme today - first run on Default settings with 100% fan gave me a result of 2025/2012. I will do further tests in the next days.
What is the maximum power limit setting with afterburner - 125%? I thought 150% ?!?

Regarding BIOS - is it possible to install the F3 bios although the F4 is already installed (downgrade)?


----------



## MaN227

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Regarding BIOS - is it possible to install the F3 bios although the F4 is already installed (downgrade)?


yes of course you can just like mobo bios , up , down, sideways choice is yours


----------



## Medox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJ Riddle*
> 
> Okay, so I got my Aorus Xtreme 1080ti today and have been struggling for the past 4 hours to figure out whats wrong, but I assume my card needs to be RMA'd.
> 
> If I run it at the stock OC clock speeds than my games all crash and 3dmark benchmarks crash and freeze 10 to 60 seconds into it. Sometimes it causes PC to freeze with artifacts on the screen.
> 
> After troubleshooting on reddit they though the card might not be getting enough power, but I have a Seasonic SS660xp2 which is a 660w Platinum+ high end PSU and my rig should only require about 500w.
> 
> Anyway, when I underclock the card by putting it on Aorus software's silent mode it seems to run fine, but on normal/gaming/OC mode it crashes games.
> 
> Do I send it back to Newegg? RMA it to Gigabyte? Or is it my PCs fault?


Hello,

I have the same problem, only "silent graphic mode" work saflely... (GPU 1825 HMZ maxi and temp and fan Ok only in "auto"


----------



## odditory

Well I wasn't happy with my non-Extreme Aorus 1080 Ti always hovering in the 70-80F range, and the big plastic hump with the Aorus logo stuck out too much and prevented my case cover from closing (Corsair Air 240), so off came the fan shroud. I re-pasted with MX-4, and ziptied a couple 120mm Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM fans to the heatsink. Now with fans spinning low enough to be silent I get Temps in the mid 50s full load.

Really didn't feel like returning and dealing with Newegg's restocking, but longterm I want a cheap AIO liquid cooling mount for this. Will keep my eyes open but for now temps are much more manageable, and the overall profile is smaller - win/win. Now I'm just questioning what I really gained over a FE card.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> I installed my Xtreme today - first run on Default settings with 100% fan gave me a result of 2025/2012. I will do further tests in the next days.
> What is the maximum power limit setting with afterburner - 125%? I thought 150% ?!?
> 
> Regarding BIOS - is it possible to install the F3 bios although the F4 is already installed (downgrade)?


The Xtreme bios is 150% with a 375w max and the regular Aorus has 125%, also with a 375w max power. The Xtreme has a lower default voltage. I have the regular Aorus and have the 125% max power slider. If your card has a max power slider of 125% then your card must have been flashed with the regular Aorus bios (which is usually better for overclocking).


----------



## CoreyL4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odditory*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with my non-Extreme Aorus 1080 Ti always hovering in the 70-80F range, and the big plastic hump with the Aorus logo stuck out too much and prevented my case cover from going on (Corsair Air 240), so off came the fan shroud. I re-pasted with MX-4, and ziptied a couple 120mm Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM fans to the heatsink. Now with fans spinning low enough to be silent I get Temps in the mid 50s full load.
> 
> Really didn't feel like returning and dealing with Newegg's restocking, but longterm want a cheap AIO liquid cooling mount for this. Will keep my eyes open but for now temps are much more manageable. I think the factory fans suck.


Can you post a pic of that setup?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odditory*
> 
> Well I wasn't happy with my non-Extreme Aorus 1080 Ti always hovering in the 70-80F range, and the big plastic hump with the Aorus logo stuck out too much and prevented my case cover from closing (Corsair Air 240), so off came the fan shroud. I re-pasted with MX-4, and ziptied a couple 120mm Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM fans to the heatsink. Now with fans spinning low enough to be silent I get Temps in the mid 50s full load.
> 
> Really didn't feel like returning and dealing with Newegg's restocking, but longterm I want a cheap AIO liquid cooling mount for this. Will keep my eyes open but for now temps are much more manageable, and the overall profile is smaller - win/win. Now I'm just questioning what I really gained over a FE card.


well, you'd never get an FE in the 50s, for one. I did grizz repaste and 100% fans on my old one and it was in the 60s. so, you gained 12c, and a quieter profile, and mine is 100Mhz better on the core, but my FE was a dog. And you only paid $20 extra for a far better cooler and pcb, as well as rgb. Hell, RGB alone is a $20+ premium even on keyboards and mice.

all i did on the aorus was drop two 100mm x50mm x 25mm finned heatsinks with a fan pointed at them close range on the copper plate and over the vrms on the plate and put thermal grizz kryo on the core and it games in the 50's. benches in the high 40's with the window open.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Medox*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have the same problem, only "silent graphic mode" work saflely... (GPU 1825 HMZ maxi and temp and fan Ok only in "auto"


have you tried the other BIOS or tried using MSI Afterburner instead of the Aorus software?


----------



## KingEngineRevUp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Here is reviews breakdown:
> 
> Hexus review - 71C max Temp
> 
> Guru3d review 71C Max Temp
> 
> Tech Power Up review 71C Max Temp
> 
> Also, stange thing with Aorus Xtreme. Having lower fps in same tests than lowered clocked MSI and ASUS STRIX cards. Can anyone explain how is that possible:


Margin of error, they could have been using a different mobo, cpu and even its these the same kind it could have been abother cpu and mobo.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SlimJ87D*
> 
> Margin of error, they could have been using a different mobo, cpu and even its these the same kind it could have been abother cpu and mobo.


it's like people just refuse to understand that 1900-2100 is ALL LOTTERY, not brand. I can show you every brand with a dog and a golden. Hell, i see people with aorus extremes saying they have to run "silent" mode, and here I am on a REGULAR ole Aorus and I get 2088. go figure. It's lottery 90%, and 10% cooling/tweaking ability.


----------



## bloodindark

Hello guys. i have the 1080ti extreme edition. I set the power limit to 125% (max). I did not touch anything else (with the aorus software from gigabyte) , and also a fan curve , my temps don't get higher than 66. Boost mode reaches somewhere between 1980-2030- even 2080.But it kind of stays at around 2000 most of times. I played shadow warrior 2 , residnet evil 7 , no problems. But i got some problems in Mafia 3 , artefacts i may say , like triangles black white , big ones . not all the time , from time to time. But i read on the forums , a lot of people are compaining about this game , that it's a problem with the game?glitches?


----------



## ReFFrs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Benny89*
> 
> Here is reviews breakdown:
> 
> Hexus review - 71C max Temp
> 
> Guru3d review 71C Max Temp
> 
> Tech Power Up review 71C Max Temp
> 
> Also, stange thing with Aorus Xtreme. Having lower fps in same tests than lowered clocked MSI and ASUS STRIX cards. Can anyone explain how is that possible:


It's still needs checking by users of both cards, but I've seen user comments that for example Strix 1080 ti shows lower power limit consumption (in %) comparing to Aorus Xtreme at the same clocks/game situations, although Aorus max TDP on paper is higher (375W).

So maybe Aorus has some additional power limitations in bios which prevent keeping max clocks under max power limit, and as a result has lower fps.


----------



## stealth83

NvM


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ReFFrs*
> 
> It's still needs checking by users of both cards, but I've seen user comments that for example Strix 1080 ti shows lower power limit consumption (in %) comparing to Aorus Xtreme at the same clocks/game situations, although Aorus max TDP on paper is higher (375W).
> 
> So maybe Aorus has some additional power limitations in bios which prevent keeping max clocks under max power limit, and as a result has lower fps.


Actually pretty easy to explain. The ASUS card uses a much more efficient 5 (with doublers) VRM arrangement with extremely high efficiency DrMOS MOSFETs vs the 3 (with quadrupler) setup the Aorus has with Fairchild semiconductor units. The ASUS card gets a double win because not only does the VRMs lose less power due to sheer switching efficiency but are less likely to lose efficiency due to heat output. Assuming similar voltage and clocks, this alone can account for 15-20W (maybe even more at hotter temps at the VRM area).


----------



## Emmanuel

I received my Aorus Xtreme last week and I'm going to install it and test it tonight. My plan is to flash the latest F3 BIOS, set the fans to 100%, set the power limit to max and see how high the card clocks without changing anything else. Sounds like a good plan? Haven't run a card on air in years, hopefully it'll be worthy of getting a waterblock otherwise I'm switching cards lol!


----------



## ad3k

Proud owner for a week now







i have to mention out of the box fan bracket was bend a little enough to prevent 3rd fan from spinning. Cooler keeps it at 69F(72F ambient) with oc boost 2036MHz stable on non extreme edition with stock bios.

Have anyone try water cool this gpu? if yes what gpu block did you get


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yep and that's exactly why I haven't flashed the F4. Totally satisfied with my clocks. I don't expect much higher clocks under water, I just want to get this thing as cool as possible so I'm not dropping bins. Although, I do have a pretty solid overclock right now. 2063 @ 1.063v never drops bins while playing games. Only benches drop the clock down to 2050. I don't even expect to hit that 2100 clock, but I'll try. I just don't have any interest in running 1.093v daily. Pretty happy with where I'm at now. Just need EK to released that water block and I'll throw some Fujipoly thermal pads and kryonaut TIM on it to get the lowest temps possible. I have a 30mm thick 240mm rad, a 45mm thick 360mm rad, and a monsta 80mm thick 420mm rad so temps should be nice since the only other thing that's under water is my delidded 6700k @ 4.7Ghz. Running dual D5 pumps.
> 
> I just wish I knew what size thermal pads they are going to use on the Aorus block so I can order the thermal pads. Hmm, maybe I'll ask in the EK thread.


Yeah flashed back to F3, I just did a fresh install of Win10 and seems that was holding me back on my clocks. I reinstalled because I moved from z77 - 2600k to a X79 - 3930k.

I used to crash with voltage curve @2037 core and no memory. Now it boosted to 2037 core, with only +35 core and +400 on memory and no volts added. Did a long session of WItcher 3 and played Battlegrounds(Which didnt like any sort of overclock before it crashed within 1 min of the game loading) and no crashes. Interested to see how much I can push now, now that I know that my Win install was the culprit apparently.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> I received my Aorus Xtreme last week and I'm going to install it and test it tonight. My plan is to flash the latest F3 BIOS, set the fans to 100%, set the power limit to max and see how high the card clocks without changing anything else. Sounds like a good plan? Haven't run a card on air in years, hopefully it'll be worthy of getting a waterblock otherwise I'm switching cards lol!


yep, good plan, but go ahead and order some thermal grizzly kryonaut now. it's a 5c-8c gain depending on how bad a paste job your card got. It is quite a though out engineered card but the paste is terrible, too much, and off center in some cases.


----------



## Cool Mike

Received my 1080 ti xtreme Saturday. With 100% load and temps 68-71C, GPU core was running 2012Mhz solid for 15 minutes. Settings: 100% voltage on the core, 125% power setting and 60% max fan setting.

This was too low for me. Updated bios to the new F4, which gave me the 150% power setting. With 150% power setting and 100% voltage core setting now I am at 2036Mhz core and rock solid after 15 Minutes running at 4K res. More power now, so raised the fan speed to 90% max. Fans are quite so no biggie. Another note: Memory running at 12,080 effective. Great card!!









Time spy score increased by 175-200 points by going to the 150% power setting. Score hitting from 10,200 to 10,370. Have hit 10,400+ a few times.

Hope this feedback helps someone.


----------



## UdoG

Which software did you use for flashing BIOS? Unfortunately I can't find the newest [email protected] flash tool from Gigabyte.
Thanks.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Received my 1080 ti xtreme Saturday. With 100% load and temps 68-71C, GPU core was running 2012Mhz solid for 15 minutes. Settings: 100% voltage on the core, 125% power setting and 60% max fan setting.
> 
> This was too low for me. Updated bios to the new F4, which gave me the 150% power setting. With 150% power setting and 100% voltage core setting now I am at 2036Mhz core and rock solid after 15 Minutes running at 4K res. More power now, so raised the fan speed to 90% max. Fans are quite so no biggie. Another note: Memory running at 12,080 effective. Great card!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time spy score increased by 175-200 points by going to the 150% power setting. Score hitting from 10,200 to 10,370. Have hit 10,400+ a few times.
> 
> Hope this feedback helps someone.


it's the same amount of power (300 base +25%=375w, 250w base +50%=375w) but one BIOS or the other usually works better for guys so congrats on finding a better one for you.

Many of us have found our best clocks with NO voltage added, however. In my case +100 is bad but I get 2088 with +50mv. And mine prefers F3 bios. Go figure , lol. play around with less volts , i guess im saying.


----------



## WarbossChoppa

Has anyone with a Seahawk X flashed any other bios successfully and found better OCs?


----------



## Cool Mike

Yes, I played around with the voltage settings, using 0 and 50% settings, boost was lower at load temps.

100% voltage and 150% power setting gave me the highest core speed (2036) under load (72C) for a solid 15 minutes running 4K resolution. (highest stress)

Fan speed 75-85% to maintain low 70's.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarbossChoppa*
> 
> Has anyone with a Seahawk X flashed any other bios successfully and found better OCs?


I'd try this, bro.

Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post

Palit BIOS confirmed working on a Gigabyte 1080 Ti FE.

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/191499/palit-gtx1080ti-11264-170331

350W power limit, 100 points more in Time Spy than any other BIOS I've tried. Getting 2052 core at 1.025v and not crashing, had to do 1.050v before. cheers.gif

And getting 2100 core sustained in Heaven at 1.093v, no power limiting. Best I could do since Windows 10 Creator Updater was 2088 1.093v. biggrin.gif

And not power limiting at 1.025v. band.gif

My new go to BIOS!! biggrin.gif


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> Yes, I played around with the voltage settings, using 0 and 50% settings, boost was lower at load temps.
> 
> 100% voltage and 150% power setting gave me the highest core speed (2036) under load (72C) for a solid 15 minutes running 4K resolution. (highest stress)
> 
> Fan speed 75-85% to maintain low 70's.


DEFINITELY run fans at 100% over 50c. it helps way more than you'd think. Like, they are twice as effective at 100% as they are at 80%. It's weird. But it's still quiet, too. And those fans are double ball bearing and will last so no worries.


----------



## Emmanuel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> I'd try this, bro.
> 
> Originally Posted by KedarWolf View Post
> 
> Palit BIOS confirmed working on a Gigabyte 1080 Ti FE.
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/191499/palit-gtx1080ti-11264-170331
> 
> 350W power limit, 100 points more in Time Spy than any other BIOS I've tried. Getting 2052 core at 1.025v and not crashing, had to do 1.050v before. cheers.gif
> 
> And getting 2100 core sustained in Heaven at 1.093v, no power limiting. Best I could do since Windows 10 Creator Updater was 2088 1.093v. biggrin.gif
> 
> And not power limiting at 1.025v. band.gif
> 
> My new go to BIOS!! biggrin.gif


You're using a non-gigabyte BIOS and getting better results on the Aorus 1080ti?


----------



## Sadystic

Ok so I've read through this thread and just have a question. I got my aorus 1080ti non extreme about 3 days ago. I've flashed it to the f4 bios. With 150% power Target and 90 degree temp Target and a custom fan curve I am able to reach a 110 MHz core offset in aorus software and a 1244 MHz memory offset. That brings my boost clock to 1793 and the memory to 12254 (according to aorus software) no voltage tweaks or nothing. Perfectly stable. In 4k SuPo clocks start at 2075 but quickly ticks down to 2012 due to high temps. (Score in 4k SuPo is 10120) At stock the card hits about 68 degrees under 4k SuPo load and overclocked it hits 80-82 degrees with stock fan curve and 74-78 with fans at 100%. Now I've ordered some thermal grizzly kryonaut and hope to reduce temps with that but can anyone show a picture or have a link that shows the best way to apply it? (Stuffs expensive wanna do it right the first time.) Also if I apply the kryo and temps don't go below 70 should I keep it due to excellent overclock or rma it because of temps?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sadystic*
> 
> Ok so I've read through this thread and just have a question. I got my aorus 1080ti non extreme about 3 days ago. I've flashed it to the f4 bios. With 150% power Target and 90 degree temp Target and a custom fan curve I am able to reach a 110 MHz core offset in aorus software and a 1244 MHz memory offset. That brings my boost clock to 1793 and the memory to 12254 (according to aorus software) no voltage tweaks or nothing. Perfectly stable. In 4k SuPo clocks start at 2075 but quickly ticks down to 2012 due to high temps. (Score in 4k SuPo is 10120) At stock the card hits about 68 degrees under 4k SuPo load and overclocked it hits 80-82 degrees with stock fan curve and 74-78 with fans at 100%. Now I've ordered some thermal grizzly kryonaut and hope to reduce temps with that but can anyone show a picture or have a link that shows the best way to apply it? (Stuffs expensive wanna do it right the first time.) Also if I apply the kryo and temps don't go below 70 should I keep it due to excellent overclock or rma it because of temps?


What fan speed are you running? BTW while the F4 BIOS has a 150% power limit it still is the same wattage as the F3 with 125% power limit which is 375w. The F4 runs a lower default wattage than the F3 which is why you get the 150% power target. Those temps seem really off. You have an Aorus. If you haven't already, bump the fan speed up to 100% locked. Max temps I see in bechmarks is 55C, but during normal gaming I'm around 40C-45C.

As for the application, you want to spread it across the entire GPU core. It's not like a CPU where you just put a pea sized drop on the heat sink and install the the cooler. I personally use a little thermal paste spreader that came with some Gelid paste I bought a while back. Works fantastic. All you want is a thin layer covering the entire GPU core. Once the waterblock is released I'm going to be using the Kryonaut paste on the core and Fujipoly Extreme pads on the memory and chokes.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> You're using a non-gigabyte BIOS and getting better results on the Aorus 1080ti?


no no no, i was just copy/pasting Kedar Wolf's post. Although what you are saying would be possible, this PCB is quite a bit different thant he other models so for us it's a no go. But for folks on the FE, that is the BIOS to try. And the MSI seahawk uses a stock reference PCB, or very similar, iirc, so that's why it ended up in this thread as I was quoting a guy with one of those.


----------



## Slackaveli

.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sadystic*
> 
> Ok so I've read through this thread and just have a question. I got my aorus 1080ti non extreme about 3 days ago. I've flashed it to the f4 bios. With 150% power Target and 90 degree temp Target and a custom fan curve I am able to reach a 110 MHz core offset in aorus software and a 1244 MHz memory offset. That brings my boost clock to 1793 and the memory to 12254 (according to aorus software) no voltage tweaks or nothing. Perfectly stable. In 4k SuPo clocks start at 2075 but quickly ticks down to 2012 due to high temps. (Score in 4k SuPo is 10120) At stock the card hits about 68 degrees under 4k SuPo load and overclocked it hits 80-82 degrees with stock fan curve and 74-78 with fans at 100%. Now I've ordered some thermal grizzly kryonaut and hope to reduce temps with that but can anyone show a picture or have a link that shows the best way to apply it? (Stuffs expensive wanna do it right the first time.) Also if I apply the kryo and temps don't go below 70 should I keep it due to excellent overclock or rma it because of temps?


it's easy. stuff spreads really well with the tip it comes with in the bag. you want full coverage, pretty thin. a little extra is better than not enough, but try to keep it fully covered as you can, but thin as you can within reason. When you reapply the plate, press down and hold it right there. try to get the holes for the springloaded screws lined up first try, and hold it with your off hand while you screw the first couple screws in. easy peasy, really. dont monkey tighten those screws, either just till the stop, no more. It'll help temps a lot. 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What fan speed are you running? BTW while the F4 BIOS has a 150% power limit it still is the same wattage as the F3 with 125% power limit which is 375w. The F4 runs a lower default wattage than the F3 which is why you get the 150% power target. Those temps seem really off. You have an Aorus. If you haven't already, bump the fan speed up to 100% locked. Max temps I see in bechmarks is 55C, but during normal gaming I'm around 40C-45C.
> 
> As for the application, you want to spread it across the entire GPU core. It's not like a CPU where you just put a pea sized drop on the heat sink and install the the cooler. I personally use a little thermal paste spreader that came with some Gelid paste I bought a while back. Works fantastic. All you want is a thin layer covering the entire GPU core. Once the waterblock is released I'm going to be using the Kryonaut paste on the core and Fujipoly Extreme pads on the memory and chokes.


this. i had such good luck on the F3 bios, i never tried the other. Im good at 2088 :_p


----------



## Sadystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What fan speed are you running? BTW while the F4 BIOS has a 150% power limit it still is the same wattage as the F3 with 125% power limit which is 375w. The F4 runs a lower default wattage than the F3 which is why you get the 150% power target. Those temps seem really off. You have an Aorus. If you haven't already, bump the fan speed up to 100% locked. Max temps I see in bechmarks is 55C, but during normal gaming I'm around 40C-45C.
> 
> As for the application, you want to spread it across the entire GPU core. It's not like a CPU where you just put a pea sized drop on the heat sink and install the the cooler. I personally use a little thermal paste spreader that came with some Gelid paste I bought a while back. Works fantastic. All you want is a thin layer covering the entire GPU core. Once the waterblock is released I'm going to be using the Kryonaut paste on the core and Fujipoly Extreme pads on the memory and chokes.


I guess u missed it in the original post but I'm running 100 percent fan speed just to get 74 to 78 degrees at full 4k SuPo load. `yea its an aorus 1080 ti non extreme. if I could get your temps id be damn near 2100 mhz.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sadystic*
> 
> I guess u missed it in the original post but I'm running 100 percent fan speed just to get 74 to 78 degrees at full 4k SuPo load. `yea its an aorus 1080 ti non extreme. if I could get your temps id be damn near 2100 mhz.


Im guessing you have a terrible paste job, or perhaps a stuffy case cooling situation? Before Kryo I hit 71c max. after kryo i never cross 61c, in supo 4k op.


----------



## Sadystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Im guessing you have a terrible paste job, or perhaps a stuffy case cooling situation? Before Kryo I hit 71c max. after kryo i never cross 61c, in supo 4k op.


seems to be. just gotta wait on this kryonaut. but lets say I apply kryonaut and temps don't drop by much. would you keep the card because of excellent overclocking and run those high temps until you could throw it on a waterblock (which probably wont be awhile for me. priorities) or would you rma it and possibly get a cooler running card that may not overclock that well? some of the horror stories on here frighten me. can you elaborate a lil on stuffy case situation? i have a masterbox5 2 120mm intakes at full speed and 1 120mm exhaust at full speed and a cpu heat sink 90 mm i believe (cryorig m9i) running about 1400 rpm on pwm functionality. ambient temps in house are about 60 to 70 farenheight. i try to make sure it has room to breath


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sadystic*
> 
> seems to be. just gotta wait on this kryonaut. but lets say I apply kryonaut and temps don't drop by much. would you keep the card because of excellent overclocking and run those high temps until you could throw it on a waterblock (which probably wont be awhile for me. priorities) or would you rma it and possibly get a cooler running card that may not overclock that well? some of the horror stories on here frighten me. can you elaborate a lil on stuffy case situation? i have a masterbox5 2 120mm intakes at full speed and 1 120mm exhaust at full speed and a cpu heat sink 90 mm i believe (cryorig m9i) running about 1400 rpm on pwm functionality. ambient temps in house are about 60 to 70 farenheight. i try to make sure it has room to breath


best way to test that case situation is take the window off and see how much temps drop. ~5c or so is normal. If it's like 10c+, you may wanna consider a second exhaust maybe, or make sure your flow is good.

Those temps really arent dangerous, though. Also, I have NO doubt you'll see at least a 6c benefit from the kryo. I suspect more like 8-10c like the guys who had really bad paste jobs. So, you'll be in the 60s and happy i bet. Plus, supo 4k gets hotter than most games, fwtw.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sadystic*
> 
> seems to be. just gotta wait on this kryonaut. but lets say I apply kryonaut and temps don't drop by much. would you keep the card because of excellent overclocking and run those high temps until you could throw it on a waterblock (which probably wont be awhile for me. priorities) or would you rma it and possibly get a cooler running card that may not overclock that well? some of the horror stories on here frighten me. can you elaborate a lil on stuffy case situation? i have a masterbox5 2 120mm intakes at full speed and 1 120mm exhaust at full speed and a cpu heat sink 90 mm i believe (cryorig m9i) running about 1400 rpm on pwm functionality. ambient temps in house are about 60 to 70 farenheight. i try to make sure it has room to breath


Honestly, these cards run really cool. You have a crap paste job that needs to be replaced. As long as you have a correct airflow pattern in your case and all your fans are faced in the correct direction that would mean you have a terrible pirate job. (have you tried with the case door open?). Also if you can get a fan blowing over that back copper plate it should also drop temps. Better yet, but a great sink witha thermal pad over it if you have one lying around.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Honestly, these cards run really cool. You have a crap paste job that needs to be replaced. As long as you have a correct airflow pattern in your case and all your fans are faced in the correct direction that would mean you have a terrible pirate job. (have you tried with the case door open?). Also if you can get a fan blowing over that back copper plate it should also drop temps. Better yet, but a great sink witha thermal pad over it if you have one lying around.


i need 2 lil pieces of thermal pads. I am on restriction from ordering any more computer crap for a month or two lmao. I need like index finger sized sized pieces of fujipoly pads. No store here sells that crap. And cant order any yet, damnit. she on the warpath a bit.

SOmebody hook me up if they have a few scraps. my heatsinks are sitting on the plate bare currently:/


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i need 2 lil pieces of thermal pads. I am on restriction from ordering any more computer crap for a month or two lmao. I need like index finger sized sized pieces of fujipoly pads. No store here sells that crap. And cant order any yet, damnit. she on the warpath a bit.
> 
> SOmebody hook me up if they have a few scraps. my heatsinks are sitting on the plate bare currently:/


I actually just ordered fujipoly extreme thermal pads. I got 1.0 mm and 0.5mm. What size thickness do you need?


----------



## Sadystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Honestly, these cards run really cool. You have a crap paste job that needs to be replaced. As long as you have a correct airflow pattern in your case and all your fans are faced in the correct direction that would mean you have a terrible pirate job. (have you tried with the case door open?). Also if you can get a fan blowing over that back copper plate it should also drop temps. Better yet, but a great sink witha thermal pad over it if you have one lying around.


yea all my fans face the proper direction. I will test the card with the case open. I do have an extra fan that I can place over the back copper plate. in what orientation should I place the fan?


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Which software did you use for flashing BIOS? Unfortunately I can't find the newest [email protected] flash tool from Gigabyte.


Any suggestion?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i need 2 lil pieces of thermal pads. I am on restriction from ordering any more computer crap for a month or two lmao. I need like index finger sized sized pieces of fujipoly pads. No store here sells that crap. And cant order any yet, damnit. she on the warpath a bit.
> 
> SOmebody hook me up if they have a few scraps. my heatsinks are sitting on the plate bare currently:/


Just use thermal paste. I squeezed a bunch of HeGrease and that did the job.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Just use thermal paste. I squeezed a bunch of HeGrease and that did the job.


messy but effective lol. i may do that until i can grab some 17kw fujipoly extreme pads


----------



## tepusg

Just download the bios mate, it has the flashing tool built in


----------



## GRABibus

The store beside my home has it on stock.
I Wonder if I would take it or not...

To what I read on Web from different reviews and here on the dedictaed thread, this card seems to be average poorely overclockable.

My target is to play with clock, so 2050MHz at 1.093V would be for me a good target.

Do you advise me this card according to this ?
Is Silicon lottery poor with it ?

Thanks.


----------



## tepusg

I wouldnt based on personal experience. Grag msi or evga.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GRABibus*
> 
> The store beside my home has it on stock.
> I Wonder if I would take it or not...
> 
> To what I read on Web from different reviews and here on the dedictaed thread, this card seems to be average poorely overclockable.
> 
> My target is to play with clock, so 2050MHz at 1.093V would be for me a good target.
> 
> Do you advise me this card according to this ?
> Is Silicon lottery poor with it ?
> 
> Thanks.


Depends, the best cards so far as Silicon lottery is concerned is the very first batch of Founders Editions that came out on release. All cards since then are about the same. Don't get this Aorus card if you are not willing to do some tweaking and minor modification.

Also a note on overclocking. This card seems poorly overclock able only because the base factory OC is already so high, the work has already been done for you. If you want the best overclocks, try you luck on a Founder's Edition or wait for one of the extreme HOF or Kingpin cards later which can do 1.2V via hardware tools. The current cards are all pretty much the same and the key thing that separates them is noise and cooling (better cooling = better overclock stability with Pascal).


----------



## GRABibus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Depends, the best cards so far as Silicon lottery is concerned is the very first batch of Founders Editions that came out on release. All cards since then are about the same. Don't get this Aorus card if you are not willing to do some tweaking and minor modification.
> 
> Also a note on overclocking. This card seems poorly overclock able only because the base factory OC is already so high, the work has already been done for you. If you want the best overclocks, try you luck on a Founder's Edition or wait for one of the extreme HOF or Kingpin cards later which can do 1.2V via hardware tools. The current cards are all pretty much the same and the key thing that separates them is noise and cooling (better cooling = better overclock stability with Pascal).


I was wondering how the the FE cards With 6+8 pins and basic cooling could have the best overclock capabilities ....?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GRABibus*
> 
> I was wondering how the the FE cards With 6+8 pins and basic cooling could have the best overclock capabilities ....?


Quite simple. Pascal overclocking is 95% determined by the quality of the GP102 die as it comes from the fab. The boost 3.0 mechanism already used up the easy OC headroom from 1583-1900mhz range that people/AIBs were traditionally easily able to extract from their chips (think back to 780ti and 980ti), the 1900mhz + range requires gradually more perfect chips as you approach 2100mhz and beyond that also requires more voltage. In 980ti terms, 1900mhz+ to the 1080ti is the same as getting a 980ti to 1550mhz+, it requires a good chip.

It was long suspected that the Founders Edition cards that first came out all had extremely good quality chips (usually centre die ones that didn't have all functional cores but the same excellent wiring), partly because also NVIDIA needed a good PR image on launch due to the limited cooling capacity of the FE cooler, thus having better binned chips makes you look better in reviews etc etc. Now the AIB partners I suspect got the bulk of the GP102 chips much later thus most ended up being high leakage or low clocking ones. That would explain why the AIB cards are not clocking as well as the FE cards that first came out, even the FE cards now are not as good as the first batch bought straight from NVIDIA.


----------



## StarHunter64

Have had the card for a few weeks and I noticed today that there appears to be some kind of runoff over where LED is. I took the card out and looked over all the sides to see if it was one of the thermal pads but didnt seem any of the externally visible ones had melted in anyway. My best guess is it some kind of tape/adhesive that is very close to the LED rather than some thermal pads. I dont really feel like taking off the backplate to fix it but I assume this shouldn't be anything to worry about?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> I wouldnt based on personal experience. Grag msi or evga.


Get out of this thread then it's called silicon lottery you got an ok one. Can't smear a whole brand over crying because you got a average chip.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GRABibus*
> 
> The store beside my home has it on stock.
> I Wonder if I would take it or not...
> 
> To what I read on Web from different reviews and here on the dedictaed thread, this card seems to be average poorely overclockable.
> 
> My target is to play with clock, so 2050MHz at 1.093V would be for me a good target.
> 
> Do you advise me this card according to this ?
> Is Silicon lottery poor with it ?
> 
> Thanks.


mine holds 2088 w/o adding volts and it's not even an extreme. why not try it? Don't listen to the soured people. Maybe they didnt have a reciept to return it to the store with if they didnt like it. The hometown store allows for as many returns as you need to get a gold one. Why would you not try?

And MSI is trash, dont buy that one.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> mine holds 2088 w/o adding volts and it's not even an extreme. why not try it? Don't listen to the soured people. Maybe they didnt have a reciept to return it to the store with if they didnt like it. The hometown store allows for as many returns as you need to get a gold one. Why would you not try?
> 
> And MSI is trash, dont buy that one.


MSi was great until they discontinued their High End Lightning Series for the Gaming ones. I had the 3GB GTX 580 Lightning Xtreme Edition then a GTX 780 Lightning. Very solid cards I remember I had 1.35GHz on the core on my old 780.

Aorus was a fine replacement for high end variants IMO


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> MSi was great until they discontinued their High End Lightning Series for the Gaming ones. I had the 3GB GTX 580 Lightning Xtreme Edition then a GTX 780 Lightning. Very solid cards I remember I had 1.35GHz on the core on my old 780.
> 
> Aorus was a fine replacement for high end variants IMO


agreed. I miss the lightning. I just don't like how they have looked the exact same since at least an r9 270x , the 970, 980, the 1070, 1080, 980ti, 1080ti, and the gaming x are the same. And in particular, these 1080ti, i have seen a bunch of ~2000 and not 1 gaming x owner claim to have a golden yet. So, as i sit here (blessed) with a 2088 Aorus, msi's name have deteriorated with me. "trash" was a bit harsh and not truly indicative of how I feel. More like disappointed in them lately and I imagine the volta will have a whole new cooler design/look as well as bringing out a High End version again, like Lightning. Seems leadership over on the island took a weird turn. Or just got plain lazy.


----------



## Notor1ouS

iam getting my AORUS GeForce GTX1080Ti (non-extreme) tomorrow.
ive one question:
is it recommended to flash latest bios? does it work via DP? ive read ive to use the HDMI-Bios flash file. is that correct?
can i flash the aorus extreme bios aswell?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> iam getting my AORUS GeForce GTX1080Ti (non-extreme) tomorrow.
> ive one question:
> is it recommended to flash latest bios? does it work via DP? ive read ive to use the HDMI-Bios flash file. is that correct?
> can i flash the aorus extreme bios aswell?


Your card will most likely have the F3 bios on it. You will know if you have 125% power limit. If you have 150% power limit you have F4. I have a non-Xtreme Aorus and my opinion is (and there are many people who agree) to keep the F3 BIOS. Seems to OC better than F4.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> agreed. I miss the lightning. I just don't like how they have looked the exact same since at least an r9 270x , the 970, 980, the 1070, 1080, 980ti, 1080ti, and the gaming x are the same. And in particular, these 1080ti, i have seen a bunch of ~2000 and not 1 gaming x owner claim to have a golden yet. So, as i sit here (blessed) with a 2088 Aorus, msi's name have deteriorated with me. "trash" was a bit harsh and not truly indicative of how I feel. More like disappointed in them lately and I imagine the volta will have a whole new cooler design/look as well as bringing out a High End version again, like Lightning. Seems leadership over on the island took a weird turn. Or just got plain lazy.


Wasn't the 980 Ti the last lightning they made? I believe they didn't make any for the Nvidia 10 series cards. The most beautiful was the 580 Lightning Xtreme with the blue fans and the gunmetal cooler, it was just missing a back-plate to make it perfect. It had 3GB too back in the day that was a LOT! The overall design of the gaming series is horrible and red is my favorite color lol, it will never beat the lightning design.

Aorus is great replacement for me wasn't digging much the Xtreme Gaming name they had.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Man I'm loving this 1v challenge. So I bumped up my core from 2012 to 2038 @ 1.00v and it's completely stable. I'm getting no Perfcap's and with the locked bin and gameplay seems smoother since it's not always jumping all over the place. Been playing Ghost Recon Wildlands at this clock speed for a couple hours now. I'm really surprised I'm getting no Perfcaps. Will enjoy my 2038 tonight and tomorrow after work I'll try to bump it up a little more.


----------



## DarkrReign2049

I just got my Aorus Extreme on Friday. I haven't had very good luck over or under clocking, but I don't know what I'm doing yet. So far without re-pasting with TG the card boosts to between 2012 to 2050 and +500 on memory (it may go higher but I haven't pushed it yet) and the temps get into the mid to upper 60's. I'm sure the current paste on there is pretty bad. Also, I got my card from Amazon, does anyone know if they have a free game offer or one directly from Gigabyte?


----------



## xentrox

Are there any closed loop water cooling solutions for this card? Something like the H115i but for the GPU.


----------



## Emmanuel

So I tested my card. Just did a couple runs in benchmarks, highest temp I've seen with the fans at 100% is 60C so I'm guessing the TIM was applied properly, however the card starts downclocking starting at 57C. The flimsy shroud contacts one of the fans above a certain RPM and becomes extremely loud, but otherwise I can tell it's a quiet card even at 100%.

I set the power target to the max in Afterburner, which is 125% so I'm guessing this means I have the F3 BIOS. The highest boost clock I've seen and it usually happens at the beginning of the benchmark is 1999MHz, then it stays at 1987MHz unless the card reaches 57C. The reported TDP goes as high as 110% and the voltage 1.063v

What do you guys think? Also what the hell is this BIOS flashing procedure explained very poorly by Gigabyte:
"GTX1080TI have two BIOS and should change to different port when BIOS flashing,
please refer as below:"

Flashing the BIOS on this card requires flashing twice, once using the HDMI2 port and once using the DVI port?!!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkrReign2049*
> 
> I just got my Aorus Extreme on Friday. I haven't had very good luck over or under clocking, but I don't know what I'm doing yet. So far without re-pasting with TG the card boosts to between 2012 to 2050 and +500 on memory (it may go higher but I haven't pushed it yet) and the temps get into the mid to upper 60's. I'm sure the current paste on there is pretty bad. Also, I got my card from Amazon, does anyone know if they have a free game offer or one directly from Gigabyte?


I'm pretty sure you need to do everything through the EVGA website and you'll get the games.


----------



## Sadystic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> So I tested my card. Just did a couple runs in benchmarks, highest temp I've seen with the fans at 100% is 60C so I'm guessing the TIM was applied properly, however the card starts downclocking starting at 57C. The flimsy shroud contacts one of the fans above a certain RPM and becomes extremely loud, but otherwise I can tell it's a quiet card even at 100%.
> 
> I set the power target to the max in Afterburner, which is 125% so I'm guessing this means I have the F3 BIOS. The highest boost clock I've seen and it usually happens at the beginning of the benchmark is 1999MHz, then it stays at 1987MHz unless the card reaches 57C. The reported TDP goes as high as 110% and the voltage 1.063v
> 
> What do you guys think? Also what the hell is this BIOS flashing procedure explained very poorly by Gigabyte:
> "GTX1080TI have two BIOS and should change to different port when BIOS flashing,
> please refer as below:"
> 
> Flashing the BIOS on this card requires flashing twice, once using the HDMI2 port and once using the DVI port?!!


to flash the card you only need to flash it once. you get two different files when u download the bios from gigabyte one will have an h at the end of the file name the other will have a d. all that means is if u use the h file u need to be connected using one of the hdmi ports. if u the d file u need to be connected using the dvi port. this is only during the flashing process though once your done u can go back to port of choice.


----------



## Emmanuel

Thanks. I will try to reflash the F3 and flash the F4 and see what kind of clocks I get. Looks like I got a poor overclocker, can't hold more than 1987MHz under load...

EDIT: the drop from 1999MHz (highest boost I get) to 1987MHz seems to occur when the card reaches 44 degrees, but GPU-z says the PerfCap reason is vrel.


----------



## Douse

Hey Guys, been lurking on this thread since the beginning when I got my Xtreme! Props to everyone here!

Got one of the first ones and loving this card! Running F4 and overclocked great out of the box. Bench and game at 150% with no voltage increase and I hover around 2063Mhz with a memory clock of +500Mhz. Sometimes it bursts to 2101Mhz, but never holds









Upping the voltage doesn't cause instability and I get slightly more clocks on the core but I opt against it for day to day use as current clocks are more than enough.

Running aggressive fan profile (not 100%, about ~70% max) and I reach ~70c during benches and about ~63c in Mass Effect (60Hz 1440p).

So question for those running additional cooling on the back plate. how are you securing the heat sink? Adhesive thermal paste? I go to LANs fairly frequently so my cases gets moved around a bit so I want it to be pretty solid.

Keen to implement something more permanent


----------



## Emmanuel

Here's an update on BIOS flashing.

This card does contain 2 separate BIOS. I used a spare monitor with a DVI port to flash the "D" BIOS update. After shutting down my computer and plugging in my DP monitor, GPU-z would still show the old BIOS version. When I would turn off the PC and plug in the DVI monitor instead, GPU-z would show the new BIOS version. Since Gigabyte claims that this card has two BIOS, and the "D" update did not seem to apply to when DP was used, I made the assumption that the "H" BIOS would apply to both HDMI and DP. Since I don't have an HDMI monitor, I just did the flash using my DP monitor and it was successful. From now on I won't bother plugging in a different monitor for flashing the BIOS.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Here's an update on BIOS flashing.
> 
> This card does contain 2 separate BIOS. I used a spare monitor with a DVI port to flash the "D" BIOS update. After shutting down my computer and plugging in my DP monitor, GPU-z would still show the old BIOS version. When I would turn off the PC and plug in the DVI monitor instead, GPU-z would show the new BIOS version. Since Gigabyte claims that this card has two BIOS, and the "D" update did not seem to apply to when DP was used, I made the assumption that the "H" BIOS would apply to both HDMI and DP. Since I don't have an HDMI monitor, I just did the flash using my DP monitor and it was successful. From now on I won't bother plugging in a different monitor for flashing the BIOS.


Yep can concur. Only issue I have found with this approach is that if you go to a LAN or something where your configuration is different you can get screwed cause the old BIOS kicks in. Had this with my 980ti as I was running custom BIOS.

So to be prudent, you probably should flash both BIOS


----------



## Emmanuel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yep can concur. Only issue I have found with this approach is that if you go to a LAN or something where your configuration is different you can get screwed cause the old BIOS kicks in. Had this with my 980ti as I was running custom BIOS.
> 
> So to be prudent, you probably should flash both BIOS


True, right now they're both F4, they seem to hold clocks a little longer but it could just be my imagination. Until I put this card under water I won't know what it's really capable of, but right now it doesn't feel like I got anywhere near a golden chip; but at least for now it's stable.


----------



## Slackaveli

So, I'm in the 2100Mhz on Air Aorus Club. Here is 90 minutes of Battlefield One. and a timespy thrown in, too. Notice the lack of any perfcaps, the temps, and that solid 2101~ LOVE this Aorus regular! Part of it is BF1 keeps you under 100% power and that helps with clocks, even running 1.093v.
 this is NOT curve locked, btw. it's a custom curve and +100Mv.


----------



## Douse

Wow that's nice. I am putting off the repaste but damn...those temps look nice....

I presume you're at 100% fan? Personally cant handle 100% fan, it is WAY to noisy. Louder than all my case fans put together...


----------



## bloodindark

kind reminder , didnt anyone test mafia 3 with aorus extreme? no one answered my post ....


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Wow that's nice. I am putting off the repaste but damn...those temps look nice....
> 
> I presume you're at 100% fan? Personally cant handle 100% fan, it is WAY to noisy. Louder than all my case fans put together...


it hits 100% at 52c, so at times, yeah. But i have Noctua F-12s on my rad and another intake and another exhausting, and when my cpu hits above 50c they are about the same volume as the 100% Aorus. So in my case, the noise is a non factor as long as i time it to when the cpu fans are kicking in anyway. It's pretty tuned, now. In the games I play, when i hit hard spots all those fans fire up . It isnt really a bother to me. Not as loud as my speakers or headphones, however i may be playing. And it's set-up to "fan stop" while browsing and such, as are my F-12s.

Temps are great though, huh!?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> kind reminder , didnt anyone test mafia 3 with aorus extreme? no one answered my post ....


i would but i'd have to re-download/install it. I did test it w/ OC'd FE 1080ti, though, and easily got 60fps in 4k.


----------



## bloodindark

firstly i dont know how you get 60 fps in 4k , with 16 gb ddr4 2800 , i7 6700k @4,5ghz , and extreme aorus 1080ti...on max i get around 45-50 fps....even on benchmarks around the internet they can't get 60...
secondly , i was talking about having artefacts from time to time , i search online and it seems that the game is the problem? since i played resident evil 7 and shadow warrior 2 without any problems


----------



## Douse

Seems game related then? If you are not getting the artifacts in other games and benchmarks... Mafia 3 seems like a bit of a clusterf*** anyway graphics wise. Are you getting them whilst overclocked and 'normal' clocked? Does it look like: https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=776945423

If it's like that, that might be hardware related

Hey can someone explain how to properly use the voltage curve? Are you just moving them all linearly or via the curve mode. Or are you actually making precise adjustments on each step?









EDIT:

Nope scrap that. Looking on the net heaps of people have it. I would definitely say game related


----------



## bloodindark

speaking of voltage , i applied voltage +50 or +100 , in the monitoring it does not seem to affect the voltage in any way , any explanation?its a problem with my card?do i need to do anything else?


----------



## bloodindark

well , do we call overclocking increasing power to 125%? , i flashed the bios f3 again and it seems more ok now. the picture you provided kind of reflects my problem , kind of a pikey polygon , either black or white


----------



## Douse

haha I guess so? More than what it came out of the box with I guess







Both the BIOS are the same in term of power if you max out the slider. If you aren't touching the power limit, the F3 has a higher default power limit so it is 'more clocked' than F4. I think that's how it works?


----------



## 24p24p

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> So, am I the ONLY one who got an Aorus who can start a run at 2100, and game at 2050+ down from there(2100) for hours and stay at 60c or less and not ever crash? How is my regular Aorus doing that and all your extremes and regulars are crashing all over the place? Here are my super stable settings' gpu-z readout.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I won't really be recommending these with all these problems despite my good experience with it. Seems EVGA/Asus are the way to go.


You are lucky. I received an Extreme and it does not run stable even stock (gaming mode, 100% PT). Firestrike almost crashes instantly.
I wonder if the new F4 BIOS fixes this issue as some poeple are telling so.


----------



## tepusg

I returned mine as would not keep advertised OC clocks without crashing. Got an msi gaming x. Seems like a good card and at least I can reach 2000 MHz without crashing. At least I can sell this one in the future, gigabyte did not keep its advertised clocks so not a good reseller option.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *24p24p*
> 
> You are lucky. I received an Extreme and it does not run stable even stock (gaming mode, 100% PT). Firestrike almost crashes instantly.
> I wonder if the new F4 BIOS fixes this issue as some poeple are telling so.


That sucks







You should definitely try the new BIOS version since you are having problems. What are your temps doing when it crashes? Wonder if a lot of issues are the bad paste job or if it really is poorly binned chips :|

My mate bought an MSI and it seems to be pretty good. Mine seems to clock higher than his but I dont think that is enough to say one is better than the other. Silicon lottery I guess. Where GB is shooting themselves is the inability to run stock without crashing. I can understand not overclocking but how they got through their QA process whilst crashing at stock is beyond me


----------



## 24p24p

Temps are low since it crashes quite early (a bit under 70 C).


----------



## Douse

Damn. would you say it jumps up quickly to 70c or does it slowly reach that temp. For example running supo at 4k, mine doesn't jump up quickly. It kinda gradually builds up to 70 if that... Maybe gets 2/3 of the way through before reaching it.

If it is quickly spiking I would say you have a shoddy paste job...

Tried running the fans at 100% to see if it helps?


----------



## 24p24p

It does not jump, it is going relatively steady. For example in W3 it would stop @ around 75C. W3 is running quite a bit hotter (and longer), sometimes firestrike does not even start an crashes instantly.
Thus I don't think it is the paste.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> I returned mine as would not keep advertised OC clocks without crashing. Got an msi gaming x. Seems like a good card and at least I can reach 2000 MHz without crashing. At least I can sell this one in the future, gigabyte did not keep its advertised clocks so not a good reseller option.


Advertised clocks are somewhere in the 1600MHz not 2k. You can now go cry in the MSi thread see ya!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> speaking of voltage , i applied voltage +50 or +100 , in the monitoring it does not seem to affect the voltage in any way , any explanation?its a problem with my card?do i need to do anything else?


in Aorus software i saw the same thing. in Afterburner it works.


----------



## bloodindark

afterburner 4.4? i tried with 4.3


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> firstly i dont know how you get 60 fps in 4k , with 16 gb ddr4 2800 , i7 6700k @4,5ghz , and extreme aorus 1080ti...on max i get around 45-50 fps....even on benchmarks around the internet they can't get 60...
> secondly , i was talking about having artefacts from time to time , i search online and it seems that the game is the problem? since i played resident evil 7 and shadow warrior 2 without any problems


well, i dont run high AA in 4k, so it's not FULL max 4k, but that would be crazy.

I saw no artifacts but what is your vram OC to? maybe try a hundred less and see if you get artifacting. But i was on an FE when I tried it.

My FE at that time was running 2000 steady. My Aorus runs 2100, so maybe I will reinstall to re-verify. I didnt play long, I was just really seeing if I could get 60 fps, and iirc it was 70 something actually.

Maybe it's a game that takes advantage of my magic cache? Some do more than others. I'll ask in the broadwell thread if anybody else w/ a Ti has Mafia 3 and check that angle out for you. But my 5775-c, Da Gaming Behemoth, was at 4.3core 3.9uncore , which is full bore on those and well past a 7700K stock at that speed (also faster than skylake at 5.0), although at 4k only the cache would have possibly given me more frames being so gpu bound. But I also have cas-10 2400Mhz Dominator Platinums and it (was) installed on an ssd.

Internet benchmarks are what they are. I doubt very many of those youtubers have their systems as finely tuned, expertly overclocked, and all the settings optimized as well as us here, for instance, and arent really equipted to give a fair answer to the question of "can you run Mafia 3 ultra 4k/60 on a 1080Ti".


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> afterburner 4.4? i tried with 4.3


yeah, AB 4.4.0 beta 6. it's hard to find via google, check the main Ti thread. probably 1st page now that Slim/Kedar are the Ops.


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> yeah, AB 4.4.0 beta 6. it's hard to find via google, check the main Ti thread. probably 1st page now that Slim/Kedar are the Ops.


Download here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5412373&postcount=216


----------



## Emmanuel

Using the latest beta Afterburner, if I set the voltage to +100 and power slider to 150%, the card will boost momentarily to 2025MHz (with 1.094v) and quickly get PerfCapped (Vrel) and clock down progressively to 1999MHz. How do my results compare to others? I have a hard time finding the posts of the guys with good cards hitting 2050MHz+.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Using the latest beta Afterburner, if I set the voltage to +100 and power slider to 150%, the card will boost momentarily to 2025MHz (with 1.094v) and quickly get PerfCapped (Vrel) and clock down progressively to 1999MHz. How do my results compare to others? I have a hard time finding the posts of the guys with good cards hitting 2050MHz+.


That's pretty good mine is 125% with 35+ core and 400+ mem no voltage added. Boosts to 2037 then drops a few times to 2012-2000, you don't need to add voltage if you're not doing an OC with the graph curve.


----------



## Emmanuel

Adding voltage allows my card to boost 25MHz higher without touching anything else. I tried doing +50MHz on the core and the computer crashed as soon as Firestrike started... Those crashes are nasty btw, the drivers never recover and the computer just keeps running with the monitor not receiving any signal, and the PC never actually shuts down even when the logoff sound can be heard.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Adding voltage allows my card to boost 25MHz higher without touching anything else. I tried doing +50MHz on the core and the computer crashed as soon as Firestrike started... Those crashes are nasty btw, the drivers never recover and the computer just keeps running with the monitor not receiving any signal, and the PC never actually shuts down even when the logoff sound can be heard.


I see but if you're gonna add voltage is better to OC with the curve you can get better performance tweaking it that way.


----------



## Notor1ouS

iam also ending up at 2012-2040mhz at max. voltage (iam still testing and not 100% stable).
is it safe to use max. voltage? i mean its still in nvidia specs. right?

current clocks which are stable:
Powerlimit, Templimit on max.
GPU Core @2000mhz
Voltage on default.

with Voltage on +100 it seems iam getting 2025mhz max. stable.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Adding voltage allows my card to boost 25MHz higher without touching anything else. I tried doing +50MHz on the core and the computer crashed as soon as Firestrike started... Those crashes are nasty btw, the drivers never recover and the computer just keeps running with the monitor not receiving any signal, and the PC never actually shuts down even when the logoff sound can be heard.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> iam also ending up at 2012-2040mhz at max. voltage (iam still testing and not 100% stable).
> is it safe to use max. voltage? i mean its still in nvidia specs. right?
> 
> current clocks which are stable:
> Powerlimit, Templimit on max.
> GPU Core @2000mhz
> Voltage on default.
> 
> with Voltage on +100 it seems iam getting 2025mhz max. stable.


Use this tutorial guys it's very helpful for explaining the voltage/curve graph. With this it will not downclock and stay relatively the same boost clock if you tweak this way.

Hope it helps


----------



## Notor1ouS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Use this tutorial guys it's very helpful for explaining the voltage/curve graph. With this it will not downclock and stay relatively the same boost clock if you tweak this way.
> 
> Hope it helps


many thanks, will try that.
afterburner needs to run in the background all the time for that, right?
i used afterburner for OC only on autostart (which closes automatically once it set the clocks/voltage)


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> many thanks, will try that.
> afterburner needs to run in the background all the time for that, right?
> i used afterburner for OC only on autostart (which closes automatically once it set the clocks/voltage)


Correct AB needs to be running in the background, minimize it and it goes to your tray. You can just set it to run when windows starts and start minimized so it just loads on your tray. The video is for GTX 1080 TI's as explained in it.


----------



## Benny89

Wrong Thread....


----------



## Notor1ouS

i wondered why my Aorus doesnt downclock during idle/windows.
iam using 1440p and 144hz. is that the reason? (~1500mhz constantly).
on 1080p it clocks down to 250mhz...

is that normal? (tried different powersaving settings)


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> i wondered why my Aorus doesnt downclock during idle/windows.
> iam using 1440p and 144hz. is that the reason? (~1500mhz constantly).
> on 1080p it clocks down to 250mhz...
> 
> is that normal? (tried different powersaving settings)


Might be clocking up to maintain the 144fps. Even in optimal power it clocks up?

Mine is at Adaptive @3440x1440 @60Hz and clocks down just fine.


----------



## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> i wondered why my Aorus doesnt downclock during idle/windows.
> iam using 1440p and 144hz. is that the reason? (~1500mhz constantly).
> on 1080p it clocks down to 250mhz...
> 
> is that normal? (tried different powersaving settings)


I have my screen at 165 and it downclocks idle. if not power settings in NCP, do you have a browser window open it clocks higher if you have on anything but optimal.

try rebooting.


----------



## Savatage79

Here's a quick question, I'm doing some 3d mark tests now... How does the Aorus engine work, are those simply presets? Or does that actually bump the gpu up in general if you select it's highest mode and then you can OC a bit higher? Or are they as I said simply presets that could be set in any other tuner?


----------



## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Here's a quick question, I'm doing some 3d mark tests now... How does the Aorus engine work, are those simply presets? Or does that actually bump the gpu up in general if you select it's highest mode and then you can OC a bit higher? Or are they as I said simply presets that could be set in any other tuner?


It's a knockoff AB and clunky at that, I installed only to change led and dumped it, fan curve doesn't even save. It gives you 3 presets or manual control but I got better results from AB 440 beta 6


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> It's a knockoff AB and clunky at that, I installed only to change led and dumped it, fan curve doesn't even save. It gives you 3 presets or manual control but I got better results from AB 440 beta 6


Yep agreed. No one should be using the GB software. I even had problems configuring my LEDs with it.....MSI Afterburner should be used and the link to the latest beta is here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5412373&postcount=216


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Use this tutorial guys it's very helpful for explaining the voltage/curve graph. With this it will not downclock and stay relatively the same boost clock if you tweak this way.
> 
> Hope it helps


Thanks







I'll try and play with it. I reckon it can get to 2100Mhz if I tweak it just right...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Using the latest beta Afterburner, if I set the voltage to +100 and power slider to 150%, the card will boost momentarily to 2025MHz (with 1.094v) and quickly get PerfCapped (Vrel) and clock down progressively to 1999MHz. How do my results compare to others? I have a hard time finding the posts of the guys with good cards hitting 2050MHz+.


Honestly, in my opinion, if your card is hovering around 2Ghz (even a bit under) you still have a good card! Everyone needs to understand that these are heavily overclocked out of the box. To push further really comes down to the silicon lottery. That is not to say that it is OK for it to be crashing out of the box...

That extra 50Mhz isn't going to really make any noticeable real world difference. I know you might be thinking it is easy for me to say who has a 'good' card, but I was only ever hopeful to clock to 2Ghz. Anything over was a bonus...


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Using the latest beta Afterburner, if I set the voltage to +100 and power slider to 150%, the card will boost momentarily to 2025MHz (with 1.094v) and quickly get PerfCapped (Vrel) and clock down progressively to 1999MHz. How do my results compare to others? I have a hard time finding the posts of the guys with good cards hitting 2050MHz+.


same situation, no perf caps, 2101 on regular aorus. but it took some tweaking to get there. you need to have your crash frequencies known for every step from 1.0v to 1.93v. then set the curve 12 below that crash number. no need to lock the slider now as maximum is given throughout the curve. Now, all you gotta do is keep her under 60c...


----------



## InvisibleMatrix

Got my card today and I was really worried about the reports of faulty cards but I got lucky.

I was able to push the card to 1980-1962 and memory 500. But I wasn't happy with the core so I flashed the F3 Bios and did the custom voltage curve graph and got the core to 2037-2025 and memory to +575 (535gb/s effective) at 60 degrees with 100% fan speed during two instances of valley at 1440p. Really happy with the results.


----------



## Slackaveli

congrats, bro. very nice. F3 is the way to go, no doubt.


----------



## Emmanuel

For some reason, with the F3 or F4 BIOS my card won't even go up to 1.093v since I upgraded to the Beta Afterburner and started using the voltage curve. As soon as 3DMar starts running, the voltage goes up to 1.081v and stays there.


----------



## Savatage79

Should I flash my bios, I'm still a bit confused on it. Currently with my extreme I have 350 mem and about 10 or 15 on core, 400 crashed me in 3dm. In Andromeda I'm sticking around mid 50s, occasionally hitting 60 degrees. 2037, 2025 2012 are my typical numbers, 2050 maybe when Temps get down enough.. But does my gpu sound like it definitely needs an F3 bios flash?


----------



## InvisibleMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> congrats, bro. very nice. F3 is the way to go, no doubt.


Thanks man, I thought a Bios couldn't make a gpu better but now I'm a believer.


----------



## Notor1ouS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> i wondered why my Aorus doesnt downclock during idle/windows.
> iam using 1440p and 144hz. is that the reason? (~1500mhz constantly).
> on 1080p it clocks down to 250mhz...
> 
> is that normal? (tried different powersaving settings)
> 
> 
> 
> I have my screen at 165 and it downclocks idle. if not power settings in NCP, do you have a browser window open it clocks higher if you have on anything but optimal.
> 
> try rebooting.
Click to expand...

very weird.
you use also 1440p?
which bios?

I tested 1440p with 120hz and it clocks down. but on 144hz it's using 1400-1500mhz still (also after reboot).
might try to ask gigabyte if it's fixable via bios update.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> congrats, bro. very nice. F3 is the way to go, no doubt.


So why use the F3 BIOS? I thought they are the same once you have the power limit maxed out?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> So why use the F3 BIOS? I thought they are the same once you have the power limit maxed out?


same max power limit but not same base power limit. the F3 is better for those looking to get over 2000Mhz and have the silicon lottery winner enough to do it. Those crashing in low 2000s should probably try the less aggressive F4 bios.


----------



## viz0id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> i wondered why my Aorus doesnt downclock during idle/windows.
> iam using 1440p and 144hz. is that the reason? (~1500mhz constantly).
> on 1080p it clocks down to 250mhz...
> 
> is that normal? (tried different powersaving settings)


Do you have more than one monitor? I had the same issues with 2 monitors @ 144hz. Put my secondary monitor to 120hz with optimal (not maximum) on power management in Nvidia Control Panel, and it fixed the problem


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> same max power limit but not same base power limit. the F3 is better for those looking to get over 2000Mhz and have the silicon lottery winner enough to do it. Those crashing in low 2000s should probably try the less aggressive F4 bios.


Yeah but, if you have the power slider maxed than its the same. I dont follow your logic







I agree there is a difference if you are running without touching any settings.


----------



## Notor1ouS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viz0id*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> i wondered why my Aorus doesnt downclock during idle/windows.
> iam using 1440p and 144hz. is that the reason? (~1500mhz constantly).
> on 1080p it clocks down to 250mhz...
> 
> is that normal? (tried different powersaving settings)
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have more than one monitor? I had the same issues with 2 monitors @ 144hz. Put my secondary monitor to 120hz with optimal (not maximum) on power management in Nvidia Control Panel, and it fixed the problem
Click to expand...

I've just one monitor with display port (benq xl2730). :/
could it be caused by using pcie2.0 (Mainboard is Asus P8z68 Deluxe from 2011 with latest bios).

would a bios update help? I'm on f3 with 125% powerlimit.


----------



## Douse

This may have been mentioned already, but in your Nvidia Control Panel, make sure that your Power management setting is set to Adaptive. Sorry if this is repeated


----------



## viz0id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> This may have been mentioned already, but in your Nvidia Control Panel, make sure that your Power management setting is set to Adaptive. Sorry if this is repeated


Does not need to be set to adaptive. "Optimal" works as well. (I have optimal on).


----------



## Douse

Yeah, just make sure it's not maximum performance. That'll stop it from down clocking


----------



## Taint3dBulge

oops wrong thread lol.


----------



## Firk

Been clicking through the pages and seen quite a few mention "50 at idle" I seem to be having the very same issue







. Is there a way to fix this? Never had this issue with previous GPU's

One of you said 50 at idle 60 in games. Mine is around about 50 in idle and between 60 and 70 in games it's all very odd lol.

I installed that crap software *your words







* to run that out of the box OC mode, even before that though it was similar temperatures. By the way is it safe to use the OC mode? Apart from boosting this I had no intention of overclocking, I'm just trying to figure out how to lower the idle temperatures as 50 is ridiculous, glad I'm not the only one with this issue.


----------



## viz0id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firk*
> 
> Been clicking through the pages and seen quite a few mention "50 at idle" I seem to be having the very same issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Is there a way to fix this? Never had this issue with previous GPU's
> 
> One of you said 50 at idle 60 in games. Mine is around about 50 in idle and between 60 and 70 in games it's all very odd lol.
> 
> I installed that crap software *your words
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> * to run that out of the box OC mode, even before that though it was similar temperatures. By the way is it safe to use the OC mode? Apart from boosting this I had no intention of overclocking, I'm just trying to figure out how to lower the idle temperatures as 50 is ridiculous, glad I'm not the only one with this issue.


I tested everything. Clean install drivers, changing hz on main monitor, changing which one is main monitor, uninstalling afterburner, etc etc etc.

What did it for me is that i was running 2x 144hz monitors. So i just put the secondary monitor @ 120hz. Boom, fixed idle clockspeed went down and now im down to 32C idle.

You have to check that you have "optimal mode" or "adaptive" and not "Maximum performance" or whatever it is called, in nvidia control panel


----------



## Firk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viz0id*
> 
> What did it for me is that i was running 2x 144hz monitors. So i just put the secondary monitor @ 120hz. Boom, fixed idle clockspeed went down and now im down to 32C idle.
> 
> You have to check that you have "optimal mode" or "adaptive" and not "Maximum performance" or whatever it is called, in nvidia control panel


Grr, I do have dual 1440P monitors but only one of them is 144hz the other is 60hz (limited)







. Seems mine is a different issue. Maybe I should try knocking my 144hz monitor down to 120hz. Maybe even change the power options back to balanced instead of high performance in Windows. Something is clearly not right here. Was also wondering whether it was the NVIDIA drivers, they have been known to release drivers that run higher temps, but not enough mentions for that to be the case. Weird...

Yup, mine is set to Power management mode: Optimal power. I set the maximum performance per game not standard.


----------



## Douse

Yeah not sure







I dont have 144Hz screens but I have 3 x 1440p @ 60Hz and my clocks idle at 278Mhz with temp sitting at 37c...I too am running High Performance in windows with my Nvidia Control Panel set to Optimal.

What happens if you disable the secondary monitor? win+p is a quick way to flick between the different display modes.


----------



## Savatage79

I found it was simply their fan curve that had me idle at 50. Made my own now idle around 30-33


----------



## viz0id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> I found it was simply their fan curve that had me idle at 50. Made my own now idle around 30-33


Fancurve only helps if the gpu actually downclocks. Before i got it fixed, i was idling around 43C with 20-22% fanspeed. Now I am idling at 30-32C with 0% fan speed.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> I ran now several tests with +60 for core clock and +400 for memory clock. All stable and 3dmark time spy/fire strike boosts to 2088 and eventually drops to 2075 when it hits 50C with max temps still at ~55C with fan speed at 100%.
> I also ran Fire Strike with core clock +70 and it boosted to 2100Mhz and stayed there for ~30s until it crashed. Since I didn't touch any voltage OC settings whatsoever yet, this card might most likely be able to run consistently at 2100 clock speed in 3Dmark under water. I'll try that when I find the time.


Meanwhile I put the card under water with an AIO Kraken X41 + G10 bracket and passive heat sinks on all relevant components (i.e., vram, capacitors, vrms and mosfets). All benchmarks (3dmark, Heaven, Superposition) run w/o a problem with 2100Mhz core clock and 6014 Mhz memory clock achieved by simply setting the power limit to 125%, core clock to +65 (no custom curve) and mem clock to +400 with Afterburner 4.4.0 beta 6. For 24/7 gaming I just reduce the core clock offset by 5Mhz to +60 (while leaving the rest as above) and even my most demanding game, Mass Effect Andromeda, sits continuously at 2088 Mhz core clock while temps hit at most 55C after playing over an hour. Furthermore, I only used the F3 bios since it is better for oc'ing for the known reasons.

In summary, I'm done for the time being









Edit: Here the PCB with the heatsinks attached:


Edit 2: The radiator of the Kraken X41 is cooled with a single 140mm fan set to 800rpm. Increasing the fan speed, say to 1200rpm, keeps the card below 50C in all of the above scenarios.


----------



## Notor1ouS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> This may have been mentioned already, but in your Nvidia Control Panel, make sure that your Power management setting is set to Adaptive. Sorry if this is repeated


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viz0id*
> 
> Does not need to be set to adaptive. "Optimal" works as well. (I have optimal on).


ok i checked it.
it was set on optimal
i tried adaptive too and it didnt make any difference.
still no downclocking on idle with 1440p/144hz.

very weird.. i might try asking gigabyte.


----------



## murenitu

I'm thinking of doing the water clock in this way with passive sinks and a universal fiber block. But now I have more or less those temperatures using only metal liquid pro. Seeing your data amazes me what folder are you using? Could you lower the temperature? In Oc mode "at home" you reach 50 degrees?


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viz0id*
> 
> Fancurve only helps if the gpu actually downclocks. Before i got it fixed, i was idling around 43C with 20-22% fanspeed. Now I am idling at 30-32C with 0% fan speed.


What did you do, not able to look back as I'm in a hurry a bit. But hmmm, what I had noticed for me was when I the Aorus engine going it was not idling low, was high 40s. Killed that and with afterburner i set a curve and it stays cool when I'm not gaming.

What did you do?


----------



## viz0id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> What did you do, not able to look back as I'm in a hurry a bit. But hmmm, what I had noticed for me was when I the Aorus engine going it was not idling low, was high 40s. Killed that and with afterburner i set a curve and it stays cool when I'm not gaming.
> 
> What did you do?


My card idled at 1550. I have 2 monitors 144hz both. Reinstalled everything, drivers, afterburner, everything. Did not help. What did help for me was fiddling around with which of the monitors was "main monitor" and putting the one that was not main monitor at 120hz instead of 144hz.

So now i have my most expensive screen (XB271HU) running at 144hz at 1440p which i game on, and my secondary monitor BenQ 144hz TN paneled 1080p *set to 120HZ*.

That is all i did. *It did not downclock if i put the MAIN monitor at 120hz*. It had to be the secondary monitor.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> I'm thinking of doing the water clock in this way with passive sinks and a universal fiber block. But now I have more or less those temperatures using only metal liquid pro. Seeing your data amazes me what folder are you using? Could you lower the temperature? In Oc mode "at home" you reach 50 degrees?


I don't use the Gigabyte tool, only Afterburner 4.4.0 beta 6 for overclocking and GPU-Z for monitoring.
If I run a stress test or MEA (since this game is very demanding) for an hour I hit 55C max. Usually, temp hits at most 45C when playing other less demanding games like Witcher 3, BF1, Doom, etc. in a prolonged session.

Besides, this is all done while cooling the radiator with a single 140mm fan running at 800rpm. If I turn up the speed up, say to 1200rpm, my temp drops below 50C even in MEA and stresst tests. But I like it super quiet, so I keep the fan speed down ;-)


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viz0id*
> 
> My card idled at 1550. I have 2 monitors 144hz both. Reinstalled everything, drivers, afterburner, everything. Did not help. What did help for me was fiddling around with which of the monitors was "main monitor" and putting the one that was not main monitor at 120hz instead of 144hz.
> 
> So now i have my most expensive screen (XB271HU) running at 144hz at 1440p which i game on, and my secondary monitor BenQ 144hz TN paneled 1080p *set to 120HZ*.
> 
> That is all i did. *It did not downclock if i put the MAIN monitor at 120hz*. It had to be the secondary monitor.


I see. What are your settings, are you running afterburner?

Honestly im all disoriented with this card. I can game and it's ok for the most part but like if I didn't do what I did the card would be idling at 49 degrees or so. So I don't even know where to begin with it tbh, I've always been am evga guy and my cards would idle low 30s out of the box.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viz0id*
> 
> My card idled at 1550. I have 2 monitors 144hz both.


Are you sure that you are not using 'Prefer maximum performance' as Power management mode? Because this is the typical culprit for this.
When you sing out and back in into Windows w/o opening any program, does the clock rate still stay at 1550?


----------



## viz0id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> Are you sure that you are not using 'Prefer maximum performance' as Power management mode? Because this is the typical culprit for this.
> When you sing out and back in into Windows w/o opening any program, does the clock rate still stay at 1550?


Yes because i fixed my problem. I'm trying to help others to fix theirs







I'm running optimal.


----------



## viz0id

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> I see. What are your settings, are you running afterburner?
> 
> Honestly im all disoriented with this card. I can game and it's ok for the most part but like if I didn't do what I did the card would be idling at 49 degrees or so. So I don't even know where to begin with it tbh, I've always been am evga guy and my cards would idle low 30s out of the box.


Yes I'm using afterburner. It is not a Gigabyte thing or whatever. It's the card itself. I have the asus strix so i have no idea how i ended up in this thread but i saw someone with same issue as mine and wanted to help.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viz0id*
> 
> Yes because i fixed my problem. I'm trying to help others to fix theirs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running optimal.


Oops, gotcha


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> Are there any closed loop water cooling solutions for this card? Something like the H115i but for the GPU.


Bump. Would love to know some info about this if anyone here knows.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah but, if you have the power slider maxed than its the same. I dont follow your logic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I agree there is a difference if you are running without touching any settings.


you'd be correct if every application actually pushed power like say a supo4k bench. BUT , they don't. so all that time when you are running 250w on the F4 bios, we on the F3 are running 300w. So, burnin gas... BUT, also, gettin perf! In other words, we have the voltage to keep high clocks across the spectrum of bins that you give up by dropping to 250w. That's for people who have leaky silicon and cant hold the volts and need to drop down to lesser watts in order to not crash.

TLR- Good silicon=F3, go for those clocks!! Lesser Silicon=F4, look for stability.

I hope that helps. The 150%/125% all equals 375w, yes, but we basically never actually use 325-375 watts. but we do use 300w...


----------



## bloodindark

so i have a new problem ...pc restarts in shadow warrior 2 , after some testing it seems , if i lower power limit to 100 from 125 , that does not happen anymore..i have an antec 850w power supply ( i dont think thats the problem). any thoughts? so my oc now is : power limit 100 , cpu +25 (around 2025 real) and mem +500


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> so i have a new problem ...pc restarts in shadow warrior 2 , after some testing it seems , if i lower power limit to 100 from 125 , that does not happen anymore..i have an antec 850w power supply ( i dont think thats the problem). any thoughts? so my oc now is : power limit 100 , cpu +25 (around 2025 real) and mem +500


Wouldn't think so but we can't know if you don't put your system spec in your sig









Even running a heavy OC on your CPU you should be totally fine with 850W whats the rating on your PSU?


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Wouldn't think so but we can't know if you don't put your system spec in your sig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even running a heavy OC on your CPU you should be totally fine with 850W whats the rating on your PSU?


problem is i dont know how to put my rig in the signature?


----------



## Savatage79

Here's a question, I have an extreme, is not being able to do anything past 350 memory a reason to be upset for an "extreme" model? Or could I be hampered by the lack of a bios update, what did the extremes come with... An F3 beta?


----------



## Slackaveli

i can only get +416 on mine, too. I don't think we are missing out on much. We are over 512gbps, so even in bandwidth w/ even hbm2.


----------



## Firk

Noob question but turning on my fan speed to 30-50% reduces my idle temp by half. Is it safe to leave this on? From 50oC to 27oC at 50% still silent. Apart from the out of the box OC boost mode software I wont be making any more adjustments to the card. Just trying to get my idle temps down.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> problem is i dont know how to put my rig in the signature?


click your name and profile settings. i cant figure it all out either but at least i got my rig in.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firk*
> 
> Noob question but turning on my fan speed to 30-50% reduces my idle temp by half. Is it safe to leave this on? From 50oC to 27oC at 50% still silent. Apart from the out of the box OC boost mode software I wont be making any more adjustments to the card. Just trying to get my idle temps down.


yeah, you good bro. fanstop is just for noise snobs. These fans are well built and with double bearings for long life.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I got my Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads in today. Couldn't find any decent sized Ultra Extreme 17W/mK pads in both 1.0mm and 0.5mm so I just went with the Extreme pads which are 11W/mK. Should still be a lot better than the pads that EK supplies. Hopefully the 1.0mm and 0.5mm I bought are the correct size for the upcoming block set to release in "Early May". I tried asking Akira, but he said he couldn't get that information for me. I'm also hoping that the "early May" release date is _actually_ early May unlike the Strix block which was set to release "mid-April" and was released and just started shipping out yesterday. I am DYING to get this thing under water. I haven't run my components on air in over 5 years and it just doesn't feel right not having a waterblock on this card. I wonder how much power the card uses with 100% fan speed + LED's. Might get myself some more headroom once all of that is disconnected to put the block on. I just bought a kill-a-watt to play with since they are so cheap so maybe that will give me some answers to that question.

EDIT: Just looked at the EK website and the Asus Strix block is $182 because of a $33 tax??!! *** is that all about? Not seeing the block on PPC or Frozen-CPU either so it looks like I'm going to have to order the Aorus block through EK to get it the fastest rather than waiting for US retailers to receive and start selling them.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> yeah, you good bro. fanstop is just for noise snobs. These fans are well built and with double bearings for long life.


OI! I resent being called a noise snob







I just like my computer to be fully silent when idling!!!

But yes, you will barely be able to hear 30-50% on these cards. The fan stop was more necessary for other cards which were a bit more noisey (980ti G1 Gaming)


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> So question for those running additional cooling on the back plate. how are you securing the heat sink? Adhesive thermal paste? I go to LANs fairly frequently so my cases gets moved around a bit so I want it to be pretty solid.
> 
> Keen to implement something more permanent


Anyone got any advice for me? I am planning on adding a 120mm AIO liquid cooler if I can find one second hand for cheap


----------



## Emmanuel

I've been playing with my card a bit and I'm getting some pretty weird behavior. I just reinstalled the 381.89 drivers and Afterburner 4.4.0 Beta 6, my card now stays at 1.093v so I'm guessing my previous issue was a bug.

What's weird now is what happens to my clocks and PerfCap. I'm seeing screenshots of people holding a steady 2100MHz and 1.093v and my card over here will be at 2050MHz and PerfCapping on everything, but the voltage remains the same while the clocks keep dropping. For instance, I currently use the default curve except that I set 1093mV to 2062MHz. When I launch 3DMark or BF1, it'll start at 2062MHz and out of the blue drop down to 2050MHz and stay there for a little while, and then drop again to 2037MHz but the voltage will still show 1.093v I don't have a single bin at 2050 or 2037, my next lowest bin after 2062 is 2025. Where the hell is it finding 2050 and 2037 to drop down to? All of this happens before my card even has time to reach 50C, the power usage is usually around 100% or a little over. Also, I'm running my fans at a constant 100% so there isn't a sudden surprise power draw that would occur.

My card appears to not be a terrible overclocker but these inconsistencies are really confusing. I don't know if there are bugs in Afterburner or if the latest driver introduced some issues, but sometimes my curve settings will even change on me (I'm not talking when hitting apply and AB automatically rounds up or down to the nearest 12MHz).


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Anyone got any advice for me? I am planning on adding a 120mm AIO liquid cooler if I can find one second hand for cheap


Not really worth to add an AIO to the backplate. I tried with the H80i already and it has negligible gains over the palit 570 HS (dropped maybe a further 3 degrees), also introduced a world of mounting issues. what you use to attach the aux HS depends on your model, the Extreme guys have an easier time cuz they have a bigger, flatter copper cold plate so they have a larger surface area for Seksui Thermal tape. I have the Aorus normal and I put a custom compounded thermal paste (I ordered this from a lab years ago, its extra sticky and more viscous) on the copper plate while using the raised backplate edges to have thermal tape adhesion. The whole arrangement raises a flat plate placed on the copper roughly a 0.5mm-1mm over the rest of the backplate so you're gonna need some thin thermal pads to assist the VRAm (thats if you are planning to backplate cool those as well).

In the long run, I need to improve the thermal conductivity of the copper backplate->core backside interface because gigabyte essentially slapped a whopping big 3-4mm slab of thermal pad there so that is definitely the heat transfer bottleneck. I might try a couple of copper shims or something + some Fujiploy. I'm confident with that bottleneck addressed, the next bottleneck is the heat transfer between the Core->PCB fibreglass, which we can't do anything about.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> I've been playing with my card a bit and I'm getting some pretty weird behavior. I just reinstalled the 381.89 drivers and Afterburner 4.4.0 Beta 6, my card now stays at 1.093v so I'm guessing my previous issue was a bug.
> 
> What's weird now is what happens to my clocks and PerfCap. I'm seeing screenshots of people holding a steady 2100MHz and 1.093v and my card over here will be at 2050MHz and PerfCapping on everything, but the voltage remains the same while the clocks keep dropping. For instance, I currently use the default curve except that I set 1093mV to 2062MHz. When I launch 3DMark or BF1, it'll start at 2062MHz and out of the blue drop down to 2050MHz and stay there for a little while, and then drop again to 2037MHz but the voltage will still show 1.093v I don't have a single bin at 2050 or 2037, my next lowest bin after 2062 is 2025. Where the hell is it finding 2050 and 2037 to drop down to? All of this happens before my card even has time to reach 50C, the power usage is usually around 100% or a little over. Also, I'm running my fans at a constant 100% so there isn't a sudden surprise power draw that would occur.
> 
> My card appears to not be a terrible overclocker but these inconsistencies are really confusing. I don't know if there are bugs in Afterburner or if the latest driver introduced some issues, but sometimes my curve settings will even change on me (I'm not talking when hitting apply and AB automatically rounds up or down to the nearest 12MHz).


I saw this today while doing some benches while I was playing with the curve. It's like the card has a mind of its own. It started at 2063 @ 1.05v and then went down to 2050 @ 1.5v which makes no sense. It's like there was two different clocks for that one bin. Then it jumped up to 1.063. This was during SuperPosition 4k preset with temps reaching 52C at the very end of the test. Spent most of the test in the 40's. I finished the test and then just defaulted the curve and started over. I have a lot of luck with locking bins. The only downside is that you will need to change the profile to an unlocked curve to let the card undercooked at idle. I've only locked when using only 1v so far, but an stable at 2050. When I run an unlocked curve my card just loves to run 1.063v for some reason. Hoping It'll really drop temps and give me a little more headroom. Still haven't found the max stable OC on this card yet though. Haven't even gone above 1.063.


----------



## mozmo

I recently got a Aorus 1080ti Xtreme edition, I feel I got a decent one, so far I've been able to do +50 core/ +400 memory with voltage +100. This gives me a max of 2076 and it settles in the 2025/2038 range once warmed up and has been pretty rock solid.

My temps are in the 71~75 degree range with the default fan profile, I noticed that running fans at 100% can drop temps a further 10 degrees at the cost of noise, so the stock fan profile is definitely tuned to provide good cooling and minimal noise.

My card came with the F3 bios installed, +125 power limit means it never effectively throttles.

The clocks I'm getting on this card are better than the ones I was getting on a zotac 1080 amp I have, that card would hit a max of 2050 and settle in the 1987~2000 range.

Using afterburner 4.4, tried the aorus engine software and it was terrible imo.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Not really worth to add an AIO to the backplate. I tried with the H80i already and it has negligible gains over the palit 570 HS (dropped maybe a further 3 degrees), also introduced a world of mounting issues. what you use to attach the aux HS depends on your model, the Extreme guys have an easier time cuz they have a bigger, flatter copper cold plate so they have a larger surface area for Seksui Thermal tape. I have the Aorus normal and I put a custom compounded thermal paste (I ordered this from a lab years ago, its extra sticky and more viscous) on the copper plate while using the raised backplate edges to have thermal tape adhesion. The whole arrangement raises a flat plate placed on the copper roughly a 0.5mm-1mm over the rest of the backplate so you're gonna need some thin thermal pads to assist the VRAm (thats if you are planning to backplate cool those as well).
> 
> In the long run, I need to improve the thermal conductivity of the copper backplate->core backside interface because gigabyte essentially slapped a whopping big 3-4mm slab of thermal pad there so that is definitely the heat transfer bottleneck. I might try a couple of copper shims or something + some Fujiploy. I'm confident with that bottleneck addressed, the next bottleneck is the heat transfer between the Core->PCB fibreglass, which we can't do anything about.


Thanks mate. Looking at http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-gaming-review,10.html I am wondering if putting a heat sink on the back GPU copper actually helps. Cooling the back plate near the VRam might be more effective. Did you see a big difference just cooling the back of the GPU? Or did you do both?


----------



## bloodindark

ok. i think i did it? 10x


----------



## Douse

What was the fix?


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> What was the fix?


sorry , i meant i added m yrig in the signature , can you see it? also with power limit to 100 instead of 125 t does not happen anymore...it sucks


----------



## bloodindark

so check this http://office.guru3d.com/afterburner/MSIAfterburnerSetup440Beta7.rar
http://office.guru3d.com/afterburner/RTSSSetup700Beta21.rar


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I saw this today while doing some benches while I was playing with the curve. It's like the card has a mind of its own. It started at 2063 @ 1.05v and then went down to 2050 @ 1.5v which makes no sense. It's like there was two different clocks for that one bin. Then it jumped up to 1.063. This was during SuperPosition 4k preset with temps reaching 52C at the very end of the test. Spent most of the test in the 40's. I finished the test and then just defaulted the curve and started over. I have a lot of luck with locking bins. The only downside is that you will need to change the profile to an unlocked curve to let the card undercooked at idle. I've only locked when using only 1v so far, but an stable at 2050. When I run an unlocked curve my card just loves to run 1.063v for some reason. Hoping It'll really drop temps and give me a little more headroom. Still haven't found the max stable OC on this card yet though. Haven't even gone above 1.063.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Not really worth to add an AIO to the backplate. I tried with the H80i already and it has negligible gains over the palit 570 HS (dropped maybe a further 3 degrees), also introduced a world of mounting issues. what you use to attach the aux HS depends on your model, the Extreme guys have an easier time cuz they have a bigger, flatter copper cold plate so they have a larger surface area for Seksui Thermal tape. I have the Aorus normal and I put a custom compounded thermal paste (I ordered this from a lab years ago, its extra sticky and more viscous) on the copper plate while using the raised backplate edges to have thermal tape adhesion. The whole arrangement raises a flat plate placed on the copper roughly a 0.5mm-1mm over the rest of the backplate so you're gonna need some thin thermal pads to assist the VRAm (thats if you are planning to backplate cool those as well).
> 
> In the long run, I need to improve the thermal conductivity of the copper backplate->core backside interface because gigabyte essentially slapped a whopping big 3-4mm slab of thermal pad there so that is definitely the heat transfer bottleneck. I might try a couple of copper shims or something + some Fujiploy. I'm confident with that bottleneck addressed, the next bottleneck is the heat transfer between the Core->PCB fibreglass, which we can't do anything about.


it's boost 3.0 doing it's thing. it drops bins for thermal, power, or things in the application we dont even havemonitoring for. just set your curve points under where you want it to stay to their max non-crashing clocks and when you downclock you woont lose perf. remember that the most important stat is FPS. If those arent dipping, you good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Thanks mate. Looking at http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-gaming-review,10.html I am wondering if putting a heat sink on the back GPU copper actually helps. Cooling the back plate near the VRam might be more effective. Did you see a big difference just cooling the back of the GPU? Or did you do both?


he did both and total gains by playing backplate games were like 15c.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> so check this http://office.guru3d.com/afterburner/MSIAfterburnerSetup440Beta7.rar
> http://office.guru3d.com/afterburner/RTSSSetup700Beta21.rar


i would advise against bbeta 7. heard bad things. at least check around first. sticking to 6 seems prudent.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> sorry , i meant i added m yrig in the signature , can you see it? also with power limit to 100 instead of 125 t does not happen anymore...it sucks


Nope









EDIT: I Just added mine. Go to your profile and scroll down. You can add your signature there..
EDIT2: OK its there now. You wanted to add your rig, got it


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> so i have a new problem ...pc restarts in shadow warrior 2 , after some testing it seems , if i lower power limit to 100 from 125 , that does not happen anymore..i have an antec 850w power supply ( i dont think thats the problem). any thoughts? so my oc now is : power limit 100 , cpu +25 (around 2025 real) and mem +500


so , if i increase voltage and let power limit to 100 it also restarts after a while so to wrap it up : i cant increase voltage or power limit , since it reboots my pc either way , *** is wrong? did anyone play shadow warrior 2 with this?i think someone else should , it's a good game for testing oc it seems ! , btw cpu + 25 is around 1987-2000 in game , i also let the memory to 400 , instead of 500 , just to be safer


----------



## Savatage79

So is anyone else experiencing any type of occasional stutter even tho their frames hold at 60? This card is so close to being so great, but I'm getting this minimal stutter, it's something maybe a non Pc gamer wouldn't see...but it's there, it makes me not want to freely move my cams around because I know it'll tug like it does. I've tried so many things, clean installs for drivers and what not... Nothing seems to do it. Anyone have a suggestion here as well?


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> I'm getting this minimal stutter, it's something maybe a non Pc gamer wouldn't see...but it's there, it makes me not want to freely move my cams around because I know it'll tug like it does.


I got this stutter during ONE playtime and I was playing World of Warships. I have not experienced it at all playing BF4, or GTAV. Since restarting, I have not experienced it on World of Warships, but since then I've also started using a very aggressive fan profile as this card is PIPING HOT. So maybe that initial stutter was caused by thermal throttling? I don't know. Keep an eye on your temps and clocks when you play and see if that correlates.

I am refreshing EKWB's site every day waiting for that Aorus custom waterblock because I just cannot keep this thing on Air for much longer. It simply runs too hot for me. (100% fan, full load 71 C).


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> I got this stutter during ONE playtime and I was playing World of Warships. I have not experienced it at all playing BF4, or GTAV. Since restarting, I have not experienced it on World of Warships, but since then I've also started using a very aggressive fan profile as this card is PIPING HOT. So maybe that initial stutter was caused by thermal throttling? I don't know. Keep an eye on your temps and clocks when you play and see if that correlates.
> 
> I am refreshing EKWB's site every day waiting for that Aorus custom waterblock because I just cannot keep this thing on Air for much longer. It simply runs too hot for me. (100% fan, full load 71 C).


That's pretty hot, mine stays mid 50s with 100% fan.

I'm just not sure yet, the card is so close to greatness but this stutter is driving me nuts. But it's sporadic so it's not constant to really make it bad, but annoying enough


----------



## Slackaveli

@xentrox, gotta re-tim that beast.


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> @xentrox, gotta re-tim that beast.


Part of me wants to do that now, and the other part of me wants to wait for the waterblock and do it then. I'm on the fence. It is the weekend and if I got extra time to kill tomorrow I might just do it. Hoping it won't be a PITA.

Plus, I gotta find mr arctic silver, got a few syringes stashed somewhere.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> That's pretty hot, mine stays mid 50s with 100% fan.
> 
> I'm just not sure yet, the card is so close to greatness but this stutter is driving me nuts. But it's sporadic so it's not constant to really make it bad, but annoying enough


Sounds like a heat problem. Yes, even ~55C can be too hot if you run high clocks (e.g. 2088Mhz core and 6000Mhz mem) such that it causes occasional stutters and artifacts, based on my experience with several different 1080ti models. In addition, it seems that Mass Effect Andromeda is the most punishing game out there, almost like a burn-in test that covers many components of the gpu die. Hence, those stutters happen at even lower temps than in other games.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> Part of me wants to do that now, and the other part of me wants to wait for the waterblock and do it then. I'm on the fence. It is the weekend and if I got extra time to kill tomorrow I might just do it. Hoping it won't be a PITA.
> 
> Plus, I gotta find mr arctic silver, got a few syringes stashed somewhere.


warning, unplugging the fans is a pita. everything else was cake. may want another person there just in case. you could actually do it all w/o unplugging the fans/led if you have another set of fans to hold it for you while you clean/repaste. that's how i did it when i went back for round two.


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> so i have a new problem ...pc restarts in shadow warrior 2 , after some testing it seems , if i lower power limit to 100 from 125 , that does not happen anymore..i have an antec 850w power supply ( i dont think thats the problem). any thoughts? so my oc now is : power limit 100 , cpu +25 (around 2025 real) and mem +500


so , the culprit was the power supply . my PSU has 4 12v rails , the both videocard 8 pin connectors we're connected to a rail , so what i did was i connected one cable to rail 3, and another to rail 4 , and now no problem whatsoever. volts , frequencies , are a lot more stable , and this is with +100 volt , 125% power limit , +25 on core(real 2025Mhz, i will try to bump it more tomorrow) , +400 on mem. fan on 85% and temp max 69 , average 66 , is it ok?


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> Sounds like a heat problem. Yes, even ~55C can be too hot if you run high clocks (e.g. 2088Mhz core and 6000Mhz mem) such that it causes occasional stutters and artifacts, based on my experience with several different 1080ti models. In addition, it seems that Mass Effect Andromeda is the most punishing game out there, almost like a burn-in test that covers many components of the gpu die. Hence, those stutters happen at even lower temps than in other games.


Thing is, it's happening In Nier as well so that's what is driving me nuts. I just haven't experienced that with any gpu, other issues were more detectable and I could then fix


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> so , the culprit was the power supply . my PSU has 4 12v rails , the both videocard 8 pin connectors we're connected to a rail , so what i did was i connected one cable to rail 3, and another to rail 4 , and now no problem whatsoever. volts , frequencies , are a lot more stable , and this is with +100 volt , 125% power limit , +25 on core(real 2025Mhz, i will try to bump it more tomorrow) , +400 on mem. fan on 85% and temp max 69 , average 66 , is it ok?


@KedarWolf @Slim, hey that should be in the OP about having each 8-pin on it's own rail.

@blood, we discussed it way back in this thread. Dont you read every post, man??


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> @KedarWolf @Slim, hey that should be in the OP about having each 8-pin on it's own rail.
> 
> @blood, we discussed it way back in this thread. Dont you read every post, man??


I've been meaning to add a troubleshooting section in the OP. I've seen this pop up multiple times so far with these cards. So a single 12v rail is highly recommended with the 1080 Ti.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I've been meaning to add a troubleshooting section in the OP. I've seen this pop up multiple times so far with these cards. So a single 12v rail is highly recommended with the 1080 Ti.


yes. and the superflower psu's are the way to go. but also, feeding each 8-pin with it's own cable plugged into it's own psu port is much better than splitting it, too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Thing is, it's happening In Nier as well so that's what is driving me nuts. I just haven't experienced that with any gpu, other issues were more detectable and I could then fix


maybe you missed my post. it could be your cpu. go disable the Intel HPET in BIOS. Just look at this, why not try it?

https://forums.geforce.com/default/topic/478357/geforce-drivers/high-precision-event-timer-and-gaming-performance/


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> @KedarWolf @Slim, hey that should be in the OP about having each 8-pin on it's own rail.
> 
> @blood, we discussed it way back in this thread. Dont you read every post, man??


i read every post bro , i know there was talk about one rail psu's being better but i dont remember sbeing talked about multi-rail psu situation. i figured that on my own , but i had to google like crazy to make sure i wo't break anything , and to be sure in which rail is my unremovable cable connected , so that i know to connect the other cable to another o rail that isn't used already (my psu has some unremovable cable , each one is connected inside to 3 different rails from the 4 it has : rail 1 to motherboard ,rail 2 to cpu , rail 3 to videocard - which is the sfirst cable connected to the videocard, the only one that wasn't used with anything was rail 4 , so i connected the 2nd cable there). so if you're gonna post in the OP , please make a note of this : BE SURE TO CONNECT TO DIFFERENT RAILS , DIFFERENT PORTS ON THE PSU IS NOT THAT IMPORTANT SINCE , IN MY CASE I CAN CONNECT 2 CABLES TO RAIL 4 FOR EXAMPLE , EACH HAVING 2X8PIN CONNECTORS - SO I GOT 4X8 PIN PCI CONNECTORS TO ONE RAIL!


----------



## Douse

Thought I would post an update on my back plate cooling endeavours... I have been busy stripping down old cards etc to find something suitable for the back.
I ended up using an old Palit card's cooler. I placed the heat sink over the copper back plate and and tried over the back end of the card.

Because I dont want to smear thermal paste all over the back of my shiny card, I have used high performance 1mm thermal pad and cut to size (had it lying around back from my laptop modding days).

Overall temperature drops were a little underwhelming. A couple of degrees if that. Perhaps it would have been better if I used two heat sinks and cooled the copper plate and the back end of the card at the same time. Although I dont think I will bother any more tbh...

I think the most gains would be from reapplying the TIM...just not sure if I am ready to rip apart my GPU yet


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> yes. and the superflower psu's are the way to go. but also, feeding each 8-pin with it's own cable plugged into it's own psu port is much better than splitting it, too.
> /


Alright I added this under a troubleshooting section in the OP. Look it over and see if I explained it well enough


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> so , the culprit was the power supply . my PSU has 4 12v rails , the both videocard 8 pin connectors we're connected to a rail , so what i did was i connected one cable to rail 3, and another to rail 4 , and now no problem whatsoever. volts , frequencies , are a lot more stable , and this is with +100 volt , 125% power limit , +25 on core(real 2025Mhz, i will try to bump it more tomorrow) , +400 on mem. fan on 85% and temp max 69 , average 66 , is it ok?


Wow strange, you PSU seems really capable. I haven't had problem with mine running it off the integrated two 8pin connectors on mine.

Love how cool this car idles in my case with the fans off on the gpu


----------



## bloodindark

btw , guys , i remember it was written somewhere , but i don't wanna check every page again...if i change the thermal paste how will the temps change? i god mx4 or grizzly kryonaut. 10x.

also what do you know of gigabyte , will i lose warranty?


----------



## Savatage79

I think my Aorus is going back, I can't take micrcostuttering and it's just there in most games, except Tomb Raider for some reason.. But nier, Andromeda and witcher now just have these moments of micro stutter and the card otherwise holds great Temps and decent clocks, but the micro stuttering makes me batty because I notice it. It's like having a dead pixel, you just notice it.. I've tried so many things now and to.mo avail.

What stinks is its my first trip away from evga and I can't help but feel it's simply that GB is just a bit more shoddy, I don't know... Because all my evga gpus over the years issues like this I could iron out.. They'd go back for coi whine or high Temp but I never had a gpu that appears to run really awesome but in reality it doesn't with microstuttering plaguing it. So I don't know.. Running into a busy second of novigrad last night and feeling it tug a bit was what did me in


----------



## DarkrReign2049

My Extreme is going back. It started artifacting in games and at the desktop. I tried removing and re-installing the drivers, rolling the drivers back, flashing the new BIOS, and uninstalling Afterburner. If I removed the Nvidia drivers it would not artifact but as soon as the drivers were installed it would start to artifact and both of my monitors would flash black constantly. So far I am in now way impressed with Gigabyte or there quality. My chip, @ 1V would only go up to the mid 1900's. I have my 780's back in now and everything is working fine.


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkrReign2049*
> 
> My Extreme is going back. It started artifacting in games and at the desktop. I tried removing and re-installing the drivers, rolling the drivers back, flashing the new BIOS, and uninstalling Afterburner. If I removed the Nvidia drivers it would not artifact but as soon as the drivers were installed it would start to artifact and both of my monitors would flash black constantly. So far I am in now way impressed with Gigabyte or there quality. My chip, @ 1V would only go up to the mid 1900's. I have my 780's back in now and everything is working fine.


Sorry to hear man. Yea it's funny you mention that, my windows was going nuts last night also in ways I never seen before... I'm so over this card, I have my evga ftw3 still pre ordered and it can't come quick enough.

I'm really bummed because I was stoked for this.

I mean right out of the gates the first day I put this In I had some Dx error and that should of told me right there that it was over before it began.

What a shame is I have only had brief moments of fun since the 12th, but I have never fiddled with a gpu this much in ages. And I'm just so annoyed atm.

If I could understand and fix my stutters id be ok but nothing works. It's amazing how a card can work great most of the time but still have microstuttering


----------



## DarkrReign2049

It's really sad. I was holding out for the ftw3 also but I caved when the Extreme came in stock on Amazon and wasn't $150 over MSRP. Any idea when the FTW3 will be out?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> i read every post bro , i know there was talk about one rail psu's being better but i dont remember sbeing talked about multi-rail psu situation. i figured that on my own , but i had to google like crazy to make sure i wo't break anything , and to be sure in which rail is my unremovable cable connected , so that i know to connect the other cable to another o rail that isn't used already (my psu has some unremovable cable , each one is connected inside to 3 different rails from the 4 it has : rail 1 to motherboard ,rail 2 to cpu , rail 3 to videocard - which is the sfirst cable connected to the videocard, the only one that wasn't used with anything was rail 4 , so i connected the 2nd cable there). so if you're gonna post in the OP , please make a note of this : BE SURE TO CONNECT TO DIFFERENT RAILS , DIFFERENT PORTS ON THE PSU IS NOT THAT IMPORTANT SINCE , IN MY CASE I CAN CONNECT 2 CABLES TO RAIL 4 FOR EXAMPLE , EACH HAVING 2X8PIN CONNECTORS - SO I GOT 4X8 PIN PCI CONNECTORS TO ONE RAIL!


ah, damn. i dont have much experience with multiple rail psus.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkrReign2049*
> 
> My Extreme is going back. It started artifacting in games and at the desktop. I tried removing and re-installing the drivers, rolling the drivers back, flashing the new BIOS, and uninstalling Afterburner. If I removed the Nvidia drivers it would not artifact but as soon as the drivers were installed it would start to artifact and both of my monitors would flash black constantly. So far I am in now way impressed with Gigabyte or there quality. My chip, @ 1V would only go up to the mid 1900's. I have my 780's back in now and everything is working fine.


did you try a different cable at least? did you EVER try what I suggested to you 4 times yesterday? https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/do-you-have-hpet-enabled-or-disabled.2362109/
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkrReign2049*
> 
> It's really sad. I was holding out for the ftw3 also but I caved when the Extreme came in stock on Amazon and wasn't $150 over MSRP. Any idea when the FTW3 will be out?


mid may


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> btw , guys , i remember it was written somewhere , but i don't wanna check every page again...if i change the thermal paste how will the temps change? i god mx4 or grizzly kryonaut. 10x.
> 
> also what do you know of gigabyte , will i lose warranty?


1) never tell gigabyte, they'll never know. 2) be very careful w/ the fan plugs. Other than that it is super easy and a 10 minute job. 3) Kryonaut is best. 3-4c gains off mx-4, 5-8c gains off Kryonaut.
Lastly, DO IT. The BEST POSSIBLE, CHEAPEST "mod" you can do. $12, 12 minutes, for up to 8c? That's a no-brainer.

** You guys returning cards; sincere good luck to ya'll.**


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 1) never tell gigabyte, they'll never know. 2) be very careful w/ the fan plugs. Other than that it is super easy and a 10 minute job. 3) Kryonaut is best. 3-4c gains off mx-4, 5-8c gains off Kryonaut.
> Lastly, DO IT. The BEST POSSIBLE, CHEAPEST "mod" you can do. $12, 12 minutes, for up to 8c? That's a no-brainer.


well they will know it , since the inital paste is white and what we put in there is light grey / grey so...? thei will see when they open it , if need to


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 1) never tell gigabyte, they'll never know. 2) be very careful w/ the fan plugs. Other than that it is super easy and a 10 minute job. 3) Kryonaut is best. 3-4c gains off mx-4, 5-8c gains off Kryonaut.
> Lastly, DO IT. The BEST POSSIBLE, CHEAPEST "mod" you can do. $12, 12 minutes, for up to 8c? That's a no-brainer.
> 
> ** You guys returning cards; sincere good luck to ya'll.**


I'm open to more suggestions if you have them man. Id love nothing more than to iron out this small bit of microstutter. Are you and others getting 0 stutters on well working cards? Or is it to be expected still?


----------



## DarkrReign2049

It was doing it on both monitors, one DVI and one DP. I've switched back to my 780 sli and it's working fine now.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> well they will know it , since the inital paste is white and what we put in there is light grey / grey so...? thei will see when they open it , if need to


they wont open it. just dont strip the screws. i dont THINK giga cares anyway on paste, though. they dont have the screw sticker like msi and asus does. I returned my nvidia FE with a repaste with no problems as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> I'm open to more suggestions if you have them man. Id love nothing more than to iron out this small bit of microstutter. Are you and others getting 0 stutters on well working cards? Or is it to be expected still?


i wish i had more! I dont get microstutter at all.... did you try turning off shader cache in nvidia control panel? that has worked for some in other games who got microstutter. it's terrible when yu get it.. #unplayable


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> they wont open it. just dont strip the screws. i dont THINK giga cares anyway on paste, though. they dont have the screw sticker like msi and asus does. I returned my nvidia FE with a repaste with no problems as well.


well , i am from Romania , here you buy from resellers , and when you take a videocard with problems under warranty , they will open it , and you got a problem if you changed the thermal paste...you voided the warranty. it happened to a lot of people...


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> well , i am from Romania , here you buy from resellers , and when you take a videocard with problems under warranty , they will open it , and you got a problem if you changed the thermal paste...you voided the warranty. it happened to a lot of people...


wow. sounds like you guys need to take to the streets and get some consumer protections going. They sent you a totally broken card and wont even exchange it?? I'd burn down their damn business....


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> wow. sounds like you guys need to take to the streets and get some consumer protections going. They sent you a totally broken card and wont even exchange it?? I'd burn down their damn business....


i got no problem with my card , as i said "IF I WILL HAVE A PROBLEM"







, the thermal paste change will void my warranty


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> i got no problem with my card , as i said "IF I WILL HAVE A PROBLEM"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , the thermal paste change will void my warranty


ah, my bad, going too fast and mixed u up with the cat with the grinding gears.

yeah, COULD be, i dont have experience with stores like that.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Thought I would post an update on my back plate cooling endeavours... I have been busy stripping down old cards etc to find something suitable for the back.
> I ended up using an old Palit card's cooler. I placed the heat sink over the copper back plate and and tried over the back end of the card.
> 
> Because I dont want to smear thermal paste all over the back of my shiny card, I have used high performance 1mm thermal pad and cut to size (had it lying around back from my laptop modding days).
> 
> Overall temperature drops were a little underwhelming. A couple of degrees if that. Perhaps it would have been better if I used two heat sinks and cooled the copper plate and the back end of the card at the same time. Although I dont think I will bother any more tbh...
> 
> I think the most gains would be from reapplying the TIM...just not sure if I am ready to rip apart my GPU yet


Get a fan over those sinks. I saw decent fains with a stock Intel HSF alone.


----------



## dude0014

I'll be putting in some coolaboratory liquid ultra on mine in a few days. Had excellent results with my previous 1080 (Amp extreme) & 780 Ti.

Will post back with results


----------



## DisposableHero7

Heya folks,

here is my first impression of the AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme.

I read alot about this card on several gaming/hardware sites and it seemd like a realy good performer. High clockrates and a good cooling solution, keeping the card at low temps and still silent at this. Finaly a friend of mine got the very same card and was realy happy with it, so the decision was made.

So i ordered mine 2 days ago via express delivery, got it today and was very stoked to try it out. Installation was easy, even though it is bigger than my already bulky EVGA GTX 1080 FTW. Luckily space is not an issue in my Coolermaster HAF-X case, lots of it in there









After a clean, fresh install of the drivers (removed the old ones with DDU and got the recent ones from NVIDIA - 381.89), it was time to start up some benchmarks to look what i would be able to achieve from this new beast. For reference i ran through several benchmarks with my old card just the day before.

The first benchmark i tried was "Superposition", the new fancy looking one from UNIGINE, the guys who made the well known "Heaven" and "Valley" benchmarks. And i was immediatly amazed: Out of the box the card ran @2015 MHz, rocking about 46 FPS average on the "1080p Extreme" preset of the Superposition benchmark. That is 50% more fps than my GTX 1080 FTW could push.









This was very exciting ... for a few moments. After about 30 seconds, the clocks went down to about 1900 MHz. Temps where at ~62°C by then, when the benchmark started to suddenly go into slow motion and studdering. When the temps hit 69°C, the benchmak crashed and the grafics driver was reset. Ok, this can happen, so i fired it up again. Now it already started with 65°C and only ~1900MHz, frames where down to ~40fps at start and started to drop furher already. Again studdering occured and when the GPU reached 69°C it crashed again









To make sure it wasn't a problem with the relativly new benchmark, i tried Heaven, Valley and 3DMark11 ... all with the same result. Starting off cold, the card pushed some serious frames, but in a matter of about 1 minute, clocks dropped to ~1900, temps rose to ~70°C and the applications crashed.









Opening my case, i could see the fans spinning up when the card got warmer, so it was not a total failure of the fans per se. Besides that, temperatures of 70°C shouldn't bother a Pascal GP102 chip at all...

At this point i started googleing if others might have similar problems. Was i missing something etc.? And i found quite alot of people on different forums reporting similar problems ... great. I then installed the Gigabyte AORUS tool that enables the OC mode and also offers monitoring of the card. Starting it up, it was in "Gaming" mode, which is supposed to be the standard mode for this card. It offers two other presets and a manual OC setting that lets you individualy set different parameters of the card. I didn't care about the manual mode and stuck to the offered presets, OC-mode beeing the one boasting the impressive clock speeds that Gigabyte is advertising this card with. For testers, i switched the presets back and forth and then set it to "gaming"(normal) and tried the benchmarks again.

Same result as before, the benchmark starts off impressive, but very quickly the temps rose and the frames dropped until the bench crashed at 69°C again. When i set the card into OC-mode, any 3D-apllication, be it benchmarks or games, crash immediatly









The only mode that keeps the card from crashing is the "Silent" (underclocked) mode that has the Founders Edition clock speeds. Strangly though, the card goes up to 79°C in this mode, besides having considerably lower clock speeds. After reading some more in the Gigabyte forums, i was guided to a bios update for the card - the newest F4 Bios supposedly adresses stability & cooling issues.

I got the F4 bios update (quite comfortable .exe) and applied it my card, without much luck. Somehow i could run the Superposition benchmark once on "gaming" mode, but other benchmarks and games still crashed after 1-2 minutes. Another run of Superposition benchmark then didn't make it through again.

When trying different games in the "silent" mode with FE clocks, the card performed as or sometimes even slower than my 1080 FTW and with temps between 75-80°C, depending on the game. This is very odd in itself, because even at FE clocks, the TI should be faster than a slighty overclocked regular 1080 like the EVGA FTW. This is not quite what i was expecting from a 880€ card.









Then i decided to do what had to be done ... RMA the card. I had already idled a bit, chatting with friends and filling out the RMA form of my retailer, then powered down my PC and was about to pull out the card from my case, when i seriously burned the tips of my index-, middle- and ringfinger on the backplate. It still was boiling hot after about 15 minutes idling in windows with just discord and a webformular opened. The card was WAY beyond the 45°C the Gigabyte monitoring tool showed just before i powered down the PC.

There is something seriously wrong with the cards bios, tempsensors or the cooling presets in general and it seems to affect alot of AORUS 1080 TI & Xtreme users - but than again not all, since my friend doesn't have any of the issues i am having. QA seems to be on vacation @ Gigabyte ....

I am now back on my old 1080 FTW writing this. Since monday is a national holiday here, i'll send the card back in to my retailer on tuesday and just hope that i'll get a working replacement without this issues. But this ofcourse means another 1-2 weeks of waiting. If the 2nd card behaves like that as well and doesn't run the "OC"-Setting reasonably cool and 100% stable, i'll go for a refund and switch the manufacturer ...


----------



## UdoG

It seems that only EKWB will make a water block for the Aorus - or someone knows another manufacturer?
I found Phanteks, but it seems that they provide only a water block for the Asus Strix and Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Gaming OC:

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/phanteks-gtx-1080-ti-water-blocks-liquid-coolers,34274.html


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Get a fan over those sinks. I saw decent fains with a stock Intel HSF alone.


Yeah this one had a fan on it. Perhaps the cooling to the back plate is less in my case. These cards have been varying a bit with the application of TIM and pads.

Hey Slackaveli, did you just change the paste job on the core? What about all the pads? I have an excess of 1mm fujipoly extreme pads that I could use just not sure how thick its needs to be....


----------



## DisposableHero7

Uhm,

last night i wrote a pretty long text about my experience with the AORUS 1080ti Xtreme. At first it was all ok,
than i found some hickups and misspellings and edited it ... at least thats what i wanted to do ... after clicking
on "submit" again, my browser reloaded the page butr took quite long. Than i got a message with something
like post has been deleted ... don't recall it exactly since i was pretty pretty tired already ... I am not even ruling
out that i in my sleepines did something wrong/stupid.

It there any chance of reviving that post?









Edit:
Either it spooks, or a helpfull mod intervened


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Heya folks,
> 
> here is my first impression of the AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme.
> 
> I read alot about this card on several gaming/hardware sites and it seemd like a realy good performer. High clockrates and a good cooling solution, keeping the card at low temps and still silent at this. Finaly a friend of mine got the very same card and was realy happy with it, so the decision was made.
> 
> So i ordered mine 2 days ago via express delivery, got it today and was very stoked to try it out. Installation was easy, even though it is bigger than my already bulky EVGA GTX 1080 FTW. Luckily space is not an issue in my Coolermaster HAF-X case, lots of it in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a clean, fresh install of the drivers (removed the old ones with DDU and got the recent ones from NVIDIA - 381.89), it was time to start up some benchmarks to look what i would be able to achieve from this new beast. For reference i ran through several benchmarks with my old card just the day before.
> 
> The first benchmark i tried was "Superposition", the new fancy looking one from UNIGINE, the guys who made the well known "Heaven" and "Valley" benchmarks. And i was immediatly amazed: Out of the box the card ran @2015 MHz, rocking about 46 FPS average on the "1080p Extreme" preset of the Superposition benchmark. That is 50% more fps than my GTX 1080 FTW could push.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was very exciting ... for a few moments. After about 30 seconds, the clocks went down to about 1900 MHz. Temps where at ~62°C by then, when the benchmark started to suddenly go into slow motion and studdering. When the temps hit 69°C, the benchmak crashed and the grafics driver was reset. Ok, this can happen, so i fired it up again. Now it already started with 65°C and only ~1900MHz, frames where down to ~40fps at start and started to drop furher already. Again studdering occured and when the GPU reached 69°C it crashed again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure it wasn't a problem with the relativly new benchmark, i tried Heaven, Valley and 3DMark11 ... all with the same result. Starting off cold, the card pushed some serious frames, but in a matter of about 1 minute, clocks dropped to ~1900, temps rose to ~70°C and the applications crashed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opening my case, i could see the fans spinning up when the card got warmer, so it was not a total failure of the fans per se. Besides that, temperatures of 70°C shouldn't bother a Pascal GP102 chip at all...
> 
> At this point i started googleing if others might have similar problems. Was i missing something etc.? And i found quite alot of people on different forums reporting similar problems ... great. I then installed the Gigabyte AORUS tool that enables the OC mode and also offers monitoring of the card. Starting it up, it was in "Gaming" mode, which is supposed to be the standard mode for this card. It offers two other presets and a manual OC setting that lets you individualy set different parameters of the card. I didn't care about the manual mode and stuck to the offered presets, OC-mode beeing the one boasting the impressive clock speeds that Gigabyte is advertising this card with. For testers, i switched the presets back and forth and then set it to "gaming"(normal) and tried the benchmarks again.
> 
> Same result as before, the benchmark starts off impressive, but very quickly the temps rose and the frames dropped until the bench crashed at 69°C again. When i set the card into OC-mode, any 3D-apllication, be it benchmarks or games, crash immediatly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only mode that keeps the card from crashing is the "Silent" (underclocked) mode that has the Founders Edition clock speeds. Strangly though, the card goes up to 79°C in this mode, besides having considerably lower clock speeds. After reading some more in the Gigabyte forums, i was guided to a bios update for the card - the newest F4 Bios supposedly adresses stability & cooling issues.
> 
> I got the F4 bios update (quite comfortable .exe) and applied it my card, without much luck. Somehow i could run the Superposition benchmark once on "gaming" mode, but other benchmarks and games still crashed after 1-2 minutes. Another run of Superposition benchmark then didn't make it through again.
> 
> When trying different games in the "silent" mode with FE clocks, the card performed as or sometimes even slower than my 1080 FTW and with temps between 75-80°C, depending on the game. This is very odd in itself, because even at FE clocks, the TI should be faster than a slighty overclocked regular 1080 like the EVGA FTW. This is not quite what i was expecting from a 880€ card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then i decided to do what had to be done ... RMA the card. I had already idled a bit, chatting with friends and filling out the RMA form of my retailer, then powered down my PC and was about to pull out the card from my case, when i seriously burned the tips of my index-, middle- and ringfinger on the backplate. It still was boiling hot after about 15 minutes idling in windows with just discord and a webformular opened. The card was WAY beyond the 45°C the Gigabyte monitoring tool showed just before i powered down the PC.
> 
> There is something seriously wrong with the cards bios, tempsensors or the cooling presets in general and it seems to affect alot of AORUS 1080 TI & Xtreme users - but than again not all, since my friend doesn't have any of the issues i am having. QA seems to be on vacation @ Gigabyte ....
> 
> I am now back on my old 1080 FTW writing this. Since monday is a national holiday here, i'll send the card back in to my retailer on tuesday and just hope that i'll get a working replacement without this issues. But this ofcourse means another 1-2 weeks of waiting. If the 2nd card behaves like that as well and doesn't run the "OC"-Setting reasonably cool and 100% stable, i'll go for a refund and switch the manufacturer ...


i get the same impression , that the card is a lot warmer than monitoring says , also after i put my fingers on it..i bet you can cook eggs on it..

anyway , i messed with the fan curve - at 65C i set 100% fan , and my temp got better by 2 degrees . also i have a fan that is blowing cold air in the back of the card , but i modified it to exhaust ( its not pushing cold air into the card but taking out warm air from it ) and it got 2 degrees better ..so from around 69 degress , now i am at 65 degrees , and i didnt even change the thermal paste yet...

also i tried putting 2x120cm fans on the side of the videocard , and also sitting on the backplate...(tried both variation intake and exhaust) also no change whatsoever..


----------



## xentrox

DisposableHero7, I filed an RMA request yesterday after having a similar situation. A buddy of mine just got the same card, he's idling at 25 C and full load at 55 C. No crashes, no stuttering, no issues. Meanwhile, I'm idling at 41 C with the fan @ 61% and my full load is 72 C @ 100% fan.

Something is up with these cards, let's hope the replacement will be better.


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> DisposableHero7, I filed an RMA request yesterday after having a similar situation. A buddy of mine just got the same card, he's idling at 25 C and full load at 55 C. No crashes, no stuttering, no issues. Meanwhile, I'm idling at 41 C with the fan @ 61% and my full load is 72 C @ 100% fan.
> 
> Something is up with these cards, let's hope the replacement will be better.


jesus christ , you cant compare temp if you dont have the exact same config , and mainly fans , and case !


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> jesus christ , you cant compare temp if you dont have the exact same config , and mainly fans , and case !


Actually, we both have the same case, same CPU cooler, same fans, same motherboard, same PSU, the only thing different between our builds is the RAM. But that is not why I RMAd. I RMA'd because this card is piping hot and starts stuttering once it gets up to 70 degrees. Not sure why Jesus Christ has to get involved here lol.


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> Actually, we both have the same case, same CPU cooler, same fans, same motherboard, same PSU, the only thing different between our builds is the RAM. But that is not why I RMAd. I RMA'd because this card is piping hot and starts stuttering once it gets up to 70 degrees. Not sure why Jesus Christ has to get involved here lol.


ok, maybe the thermal paste was applied incorrect? i got 31 idle , 65 load, which in my opinon is ok


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> DisposableHero7, I filed an RMA request yesterday after having a similar situation. A buddy of mine just got the same card, he's idling at 25 C and full load at 55 C. No crashes, no stuttering, no issues. Meanwhile, I'm idling at 41 C with the fan @ 61% and my full load is 72 C @ 100% fan.
> 
> Something is up with these cards, let's hope the replacement will be better.


Why don't you just change the thermal paste instead of going through a PITA RMA and risk getting another crappily done paste job? This is something you can fix yourself.Your factory paste job is probably crappy compared to your friend who has a good paste job.


----------



## Savatage79

So what does Newegg do for items out of stock? I got a feeling they're gonna say it's back ordered which is totally uncool in my book if they do. Simply because that means someone is totally out 750 bucks and I don't feel they should force an exchange in that particular case. I understand why they changed their policy, however I swore to myself I was done with newegg a few gpus back and have done amazon ever since but I was to impatient for my evga order and the aorus tempted me.

I'm ok with an exchange as long as I get one because I'd just sell it. But I got a feeling their gonna be ridiculous and say well sorry we're oos, and in that case I feel a refund is in order.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> Actually, we both have the same case, same CPU cooler, same fans, same motherboard, same PSU, the only thing different between our builds is the RAM. But that is not why I RMAd. I RMA'd because this card is piping hot and starts stuttering once it gets up to 70 degrees. Not sure why Jesus Christ has to get involved here lol.


Let jesus take the wheel!! I kid, what are your ambient temps?

I had to rig extra active cooling just to cool the damn backplate lol. My latest creation, I strapped a single slot Quadro blower cooler with generous fujiploy padding and it seems to be getting the best results so far. There are 2 reasons the gigabyte backplate is so damn hot:
1. the massive copper coldplate for the core is also shared with the VRAM. You basically have the core temps being shared out across a larger surface area and dumping through the PCB via the GDDR5x chips.
2. Gigabyte is extremely aggressive with the padding for the backside, this means a significant amount of heat is being conducted to the backplate compared to other AIBs.

As hot as this card is though, it cannot compare to my old MSI AMD 290 Gaming. The backplate registered close to 90 degrees according to my infrared thermometer after I padded the VRAM with thermal putty.

I would strongly recommend you repaste the GPU, hell, even the act of re-seating the HS seems to yield temp gains because the HS has surprisingly good contact with the GPU die.


----------



## c0ld

I'm not having problems with temp and I am on a regular Aorus. Mine doesn't break 66C and that's with a fan profile not exceeding 80% usage on the fans.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Heya folks,
> 
> here is my first impression of the AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme.
> 
> I read alot about this card on several gaming/hardware sites and it seemd like a realy good performer. High clockrates and a good cooling solution, keeping the card at low temps and still silent at this. Finaly a friend of mine got the very same card and was realy happy with it, so the decision was made.
> 
> So i ordered mine 2 days ago via express delivery, got it today and was very stoked to try it out. Installation was easy, even though it is bigger than my already bulky EVGA GTX 1080 FTW. Luckily space is not an issue in my Coolermaster HAF-X case, lots of it in there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After a clean, fresh install of the drivers (removed the old ones with DDU and got the recent ones from NVIDIA - 381.89), it was time to start up some benchmarks to look what i would be able to achieve from this new beast. For reference i ran through several benchmarks with my old card just the day before.
> 
> The first benchmark i tried was "Superposition", the new fancy looking one from UNIGINE, the guys who made the well known "Heaven" and "Valley" benchmarks. And i was immediatly amazed: Out of the box the card ran @2015 MHz, rocking about 46 FPS average on the "1080p Extreme" preset of the Superposition benchmark. That is 50% more fps than my GTX 1080 FTW could push.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This was very exciting ... for a few moments. After about 30 seconds, the clocks went down to about 1900 MHz. Temps where at ~62°C by then, when the benchmark started to suddenly go into slow motion and studdering. When the temps hit 69°C, the benchmak crashed and the grafics driver was reset. Ok, this can happen, so i fired it up again. Now it already started with 65°C and only ~1900MHz, frames where down to ~40fps at start and started to drop furher already. Again studdering occured and when the GPU reached 69°C it crashed again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To make sure it wasn't a problem with the relativly new benchmark, i tried Heaven, Valley and 3DMark11 ... all with the same result. Starting off cold, the card pushed some serious frames, but in a matter of about 1 minute, clocks dropped to ~1900, temps rose to ~70°C and the applications crashed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Opening my case, i could see the fans spinning up when the card got warmer, so it was not a total failure of the fans per se. Besides that, temperatures of 70°C shouldn't bother a Pascal GP102 chip at all...
> 
> At this point i started googleing if others might have similar problems. Was i missing something etc.? And i found quite alot of people on different forums reporting similar problems ... great. I then installed the Gigabyte AORUS tool that enables the OC mode and also offers monitoring of the card. Starting it up, it was in "Gaming" mode, which is supposed to be the standard mode for this card. It offers two other presets and a manual OC setting that lets you individualy set different parameters of the card. I didn't care about the manual mode and stuck to the offered presets, OC-mode beeing the one boasting the impressive clock speeds that Gigabyte is advertising this card with. For testers, i switched the presets back and forth and then set it to "gaming"(normal) and tried the benchmarks again.
> 
> Same result as before, the benchmark starts off impressive, but very quickly the temps rose and the frames dropped until the bench crashed at 69°C again. When i set the card into OC-mode, any 3D-apllication, be it benchmarks or games, crash immediatly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only mode that keeps the card from crashing is the "Silent" (underclocked) mode that has the Founders Edition clock speeds. Strangly though, the card goes up to 79°C in this mode, besides having considerably lower clock speeds. After reading some more in the Gigabyte forums, i was guided to a bios update for the card - the newest F4 Bios supposedly adresses stability & cooling issues.
> 
> I got the F4 bios update (quite comfortable .exe) and applied it my card, without much luck. Somehow i could run the Superposition benchmark once on "gaming" mode, but other benchmarks and games still crashed after 1-2 minutes. Another run of Superposition benchmark then didn't make it through again.
> 
> When trying different games in the "silent" mode with FE clocks, the card performed as or sometimes even slower than my 1080 FTW and with temps between 75-80°C, depending on the game. This is very odd in itself, because even at FE clocks, the TI should be faster than a slighty overclocked regular 1080 like the EVGA FTW. This is not quite what i was expecting from a 880€ card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then i decided to do what had to be done ... RMA the card. I had already idled a bit, chatting with friends and filling out the RMA form of my retailer, then powered down my PC and was about to pull out the card from my case, when i seriously burned the tips of my index-, middle- and ringfinger on the backplate. It still was boiling hot after about 15 minutes idling in windows with just discord and a webformular opened. The card was WAY beyond the 45°C the Gigabyte monitoring tool showed just before i powered down the PC.
> 
> There is something seriously wrong with the cards bios, tempsensors or the cooling presets in general and it seems to affect alot of AORUS 1080 TI & Xtreme users - but than again not all, since my friend doesn't have any of the issues i am having. QA seems to be on vacation @ Gigabyte ....
> 
> I am now back on my old 1080 FTW writing this. Since monday is a national holiday here, i'll send the card back in to my retailer on tuesday and just hope that i'll get a working replacement without this issues. But this ofcourse means another 1-2 weeks of waiting. If the 2nd card behaves like that as well and doesn't run the "OC"-Setting reasonably cool and 100% stable, i'll go for a refund and switch the manufacturer ...


the cards are AWESOME, but their binning process is not. You just got a silicon that cant handle being an extreme. Your rma is the way to go. Sorry for the downtime but I bet your next sample is good. This issue has affect a few in here, but it isnt really common, your replacement should be good.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah this one had a fan on it. Perhaps the cooling to the back plate is less in my case. These cards have been varying a bit with the application of TIM and pads.
> 
> Hey Slackaveli, did you just change the paste job on the core? What about all the pads? I have an excess of 1mm fujipoly extreme pads that I could use just not sure how thick its needs to be....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> the cards are AWESOME, but their binning process is not. You just got a silicon that cant handle being an extreme. Your rma is the way to go. Sorry for the downtime but I bet your next sample is good. This issue has affect a few in here, but it isnt really common, your replacement should be good.


yeah, extra pads is a good idea. i'd concentrate on the vram, it gets hot and can perform better if cooler. and that should be the right thickness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Why don't you just change the thermal paste instead of going through a PITA RMA and risk getting another crappily done paste job? This is something you can fix yourself.Your factory paste job is probably crappy compared to your friend who has a good paste job.


that's exactly what it is, im sure of it. I get how folks panic when they think their card may be bad, but at least follow through with what everyone else in the forum did to fix those things before rma'ing it. But maybe that's just me. 70c is not hot, either. thta's cool. But if that's not cool enough, of course you'll have to re-tim. we've been having to re-tim every gpu that ever comes out. At least I have been.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Why don't you just change the thermal paste instead of going through a PITA RMA and risk getting another crappily done paste job? This is something you can fix yourself.Your factory paste job is probably crappy compared to your friend who has a good paste job.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> So what does Newegg do for items out of stock? I got a feeling they're gonna say it's back ordered which is totally uncool in my book if they do. Simply because that means someone is totally out 750 bucks and I don't feel they should force an exchange in that particular case. I understand why they changed their policy, however I swore to myself I was done with newegg a few gpus back and have done amazon ever since but I was to impatient for my evga order and the aorus tempted me.
> 
> I'm ok with an exchange as long as I get one because I'd just sell it. But I got a feeling their gonna be ridiculous and say well sorry we're oos, and in that case I feel a refund is in order.


if they are out of stock than they should refund. These things are why i always use paypal, tbh. Good luck, brother.


----------



## GNUster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> Meanwhile I put the card under water with an AIO Kraken X41 + G10 bracket and passive heat sinks on all relevant components (i.e., vram, capacitors, vrms and mosfets). All benchmarks (3dmark, Heaven, Superposition) run w/o a problem with 2100Mhz core clock and 6014 Mhz memory clock achieved by simply setting the power limit to 125%, core clock to +65 (no custom curve) and mem clock to +400 with Afterburner 4.4.0 beta 6. For 24/7 gaming I just reduce the core clock offset by 5Mhz to +60 (while leaving the rest as above) and even my most demanding game, Mass Effect Andromeda, sits continuously at 2088 Mhz core clock while temps hit at most 55C after playing over an hour. Furthermore, I only used the F3 bios since it is better for oc'ing for the known reasons.
> 
> In summary, I'm done for the time being
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Here the PCB with the heatsinks attached:
> 
> 
> Edit 2: The radiator of the Kraken X41 is cooled with a single 140mm fan set to 800rpm. Increasing the fan speed, say to 1200rpm, keeps the card below 50C in all of the above scenarios.


Just because I see a lot of ppl having problems running their memory above 6000Mhz: I witnessed artifcats running Mass Effect Andromeda with 2088MHz core clock and 6014MHz mem clock when playing an hour or so, i.e., I had to lower the mem clock to 5691MHz to become 24/7 stable for Andromeda. The reason was simply the fact that I couldn't shed enough heat from the vram as I saw how hot it got despite heatsinks on it. Hence, what I did was adding thermal pads between vram and backplate, and covered most of the backplate with heat sinks. With that, my core temp drops another ~5-7C in Andromeda and my vram stays cool enough that I can run the game with 2088/6014 stable w/o any glitch.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GNUster*
> 
> Just because I see a lot of ppl having problems running their memory above 6000Mhz: I witnessed artifcats running Mass Effect Andromeda with 2088MHz core clock and 6014MHz mem clock when playing an hour or so, i.e., I had to lower the mem clock to 5691MHz to become 24/7 stable for Andromeda. The reason was simply the fact that I couldn't shed enough heat from the vram as I saw how hot it got despite heatsinks on it. Hence, what I did was adding thermal pads between vram and backplate, and covered most of the backplate with heat sinks. With that, my core temp drops another ~5-7C in Andromeda and my vram stays cool enough that I can run the game with 2088/6014 stable w/o any glitch.


yep. just getting all that heat to the backplate is only half the battle. dissipation of all that heat is next. doing both greatly improves temps. Basically, that plus a repaste ties/beats an AIO cooler.


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> if they are out of stock than they should refund. These things are why i always use paypal, tbh. Good luck, brother.


Yea man, I always typically do also but for some reason I didn't here and I think it was because the day when I was tryin to catch the stock I was frantically tryin to get my order in lol but yea paypal is always the way to go.

I just hope they make it simple as all, and chances are when I return this the Aorus won't be In Stock as it's pretty random so far.

If my ftw3 stutters also I'll at least know then that the issue Is on my end, so that's why I'm dying to get it and see


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> I'm not having problems with temp and I am on a regular Aorus. Mine doesn't break 66C and that's with a fan profile not exceeding 80% usage on the fans.


So far from what I've read on this thread and reddit etc, it seems the regular Aorus has less issues compared to the extreme. However, it may be attributed to the lesser sample size of regular Aorus userbase.

Will be putting in my regular Aorus tomorrow, testing & re-pasting. Hope I have the same good luck as you


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Yea man, I always typically do also but for some reason I didn't here and I think it was because the day when I was tryin to catch the stock I was frantically tryin to get my order in lol but yea paypal is always the way to go.
> 
> I just hope they make it simple as all, and chances are when I return this the Aorus won't be In Stock as it's pretty random so far.
> 
> If my ftw3 stutters also I'll at least know then that the issue Is on my end, so that's why I'm dying to get it and see


yeah, it would be driving me crazy.

I totally get how hard it is to check out in 5 seconds when these things were coming i/out of stock in less than a minute like they were. I had my paypal already logged in and had decided on my shipping options, etc, and I still almost botched it. It's hard!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I just got home from the weekend vacation and as usual I'm having issues running my 1v\/2050 curve. Sometimes it works fine, but other times the card will decide to use boost the voltage up to 1.05v/1.063v. I don't get it. So I once again just locked 1v @ 2050 and everything ran great. This is all during Wildlands which is pretty demanding. Going to test the Witcher next since that one is very GPU intensive. I didn't even get a GPU Utilization Error in the Perfcap Reasons which I always get. I've been using a big fan aimed directly at the card and it has really helped with temps. Just waiting for EK to release the block for this card. I can't wait to have silence and extremely cool temps. I'm not used to running on air at all









Here's MSI Afterburner and GPU-Z while playing Ghost Recon Wildlands at 1440p 144hz. Pretty happy the card isn't asking for more voltage since I'm running a 2050 core with only 1v. Doing +300 on the memory because it seems to be the sweet spot for my card. Scored higher benching at +300 than I did at +400 and +500.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Ooookay,

since it's a long weekend over here and because it was bugging me all along, i just had to fiddle around a bit more and found out 2 interesting things.

My card seems to suffer from 2 seperate shortcommings:

1:
The "Gaming"-mode crashes for me, because the GPU temp is read wrong and as such, the regular fan profile can't possibly do its job accordingly. I borrowed an infrared thermometer. It's one from the kitchen, but it's +-2°C accurate. Meassuring my cards temps with it and comparing it to what the GPU sensor says, there is a major discrepancy:

While my cards sensor shows a GPU temp of 28°C in idle (Windows desktop), the infrared thermometer shows 35°C arround the copper part of the backplate, right on the other side of the GPU. Thats a difference of 7°C, and i am not even meassuring the GPU directly, which itself will be even hotter than the backplate.

If i set the card to "Silent"-mode and bring it up to 79°C according to the sensor, the backplate heats up to alarming 92°C, thats a 13°C difference!

So is disabled the basic fan control via MSI afterburner and set the fans to 100% fixed. That is kinda loud and you can clearly hear it even with a closed case, but it pays off immediatley: GPU sensor settles at 48°C under heavy load with "Silent"-mode, while the backplate realy heats up to 57°C, 11°C more. Besides there still beeing that gap, the GPU now runs significantly cooler and suddenly is able to run all the benchmarks without a crash even in "Gaming"-mode.

2:
The "OC"-mode however is still not working, even with 100% fanspeed fixed. While "Gaming"-mode is playing nice now with better cooling, my GPU simply can't handle any more clocks. If i apply only 20MHz more GPU core clocks (compared to gaming clocks) via MSI afterburner, any 3D-application still crashes almost instantly. Temps don't even reach 50°C (according to sensor), the backplate reached 60°C. Even rising power- and temp targets to max. achieves absolutley nothing here. This CPU should never have been labled as 1080TI Xtreme capable!

TL;DR:
My card features a lousy GPU that can't reach AORUS Xtreme's advertised clockspeeds, even under optimal cooling. In addition to that, either the temp sensor is faulty or the controller is programmed with wrong offsets and reads the sensor data wrongly, which leads to excessive overheating of the card if the automatic fan control is active.

So, in essence the card was DOA and is going back on tuesday...


----------



## Brohan

Adding to what others have said previously, I believe that some Aorus Xtreme 1080 Ti users are having instability and/or overclocking issues due to software bugs. I hope my experience will help someone in a similar situation.

Currently, my Aorus Xtreme 1080 Ti runs rock solid stable at load in games at 2025 mhz (max boosts higher and then falls to 2025). I have not maxed power or added voltage, so it can likely go higher, I just haven't tried yet. However, one day I booted up and the card was max boosting at 2100+. I was crashing all over and couldn't figure out how at stock settings I was boosting that high without touching anything. Well, I noticed that in the Aorus Graphics Engine software that my GPU Boost Clock was running on a custom voltage curve. I must have accidentally clicked the "customized" button in the Aorus software. I of course went back to the normal setting and everything worked fine. Since then, I have experimented with the voltage curve. If I set it to custom but leave it at the default curve, when I reboot my computer, the curve changes. I believe it only does so once, but the slight changes to the curve may cause instability for some users (they do for me). It's best to either leave the curve alone or carefully modify it in Afterburner. I suspect other users may have unknowingly run into a similar issue with the Aorus Xtreme. From reading instability comments on multiple threads, I can't help but wonder if something is messed up in the software for the voltage curve.

Also, I have noticed that when I set a custom OC profile in the Aorus Engine the GPU boost clock does not match GPU Z. HOWEVER, when I apply the default OC Mode that comes with the card and THEN apply my custom OC profile, clock speeds exactly match GPU Z. In addition, I have a higher boost. I max at 1987 mhz when applying a custom OC profile at max power (no voltage tweak), but when I first apply OC mode and then afterward apply my custom OC profile, my boost stabilizes at 2025 mhz at load in games (BF1, Overwatch, etc.). My default OC profile right now is only +112 on the power slider (of 125, F3 Bios) with a modest OC of +53 mhz (1773 Boost clock per GPUZ and Aorus software).

So, my problems with the card were entirely resolved by a) making sure that the voltage curve was not set to custom and b) always applying OC Mode before applying my custom OC profile. Now, I never have any issues, the card generally runs at 60% to 80% TDP while gaming, and temps with a moderately aggressive fan curve hover between 60 to 65 C in game. I'm satisfied with the results. I would like to push my card higher in the future, but I'm just extremely relieved that I didn't have to RMA the card. I initially thought I got a dud, but I suspect there are many other Aorus users who actually have decent if not great cards but are suffering instability entirely due to similar software bugs.

Lastly, using Afterburner, I cannot replicate the same results just yet. Afterburner doesn't have the OC mode for the Xtreme, so when I increase the GPU clock, GPU Z does not match Afterburner. I noted that another review website (can't remember which) had the exact same issue. For now, I'm stuck using the Aorus software for OC unless I want to mess around with a custom voltage curve on Afterburner.


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> yeah, it would be driving me crazy.
> 
> I totally get how hard it is to check out in 5 seconds when these things were coming i/out of stock in less than a minute like they were. I had my paypal already logged in and had decided on my shipping options, etc, and I still almost botched it. It's hard!


Yea hah it's nerve racking. See I originally pre ordered the ftw3 and that was nuts because it was getting hammered hard that day and when I went to check out I had 3 in my cart, and even tho I was prepared I was still frantic in getting it but I was still more prepared.

As the gpus started to release I got so impatient and on a whim decided to catch the Aorus and It actually was when my wife and I were grocery shopping that the alert came in, so I was just all messed up.

But overall I'm bummed, and I hope my evga doesn't stutter but I have a huge feeling it won't.. And if it does then I gotta really dig and see what's up.


----------



## Douse

It's a shame people are having all these issues.

I haven't repasted mine and I have it clocking and holding at 2101Mhz in most games. Very demanding games it may drop to 2088Mhz. Benching it drops to 2063Mhz at the lowest... I am only considering repasting cause I want better temps but I dont want to poke the bear









I do have an aggressive fan profile, 80% fan and 60c and 100% fan at 70c. Normal temps hover around 60c-63c in games. 67c in benches.

I do seem to get these little stutters in games sometimes (Mainly when running at 4k via DSR) but I can live with it. I write that off to my PC being 3-4 years old now.

In regards to the back plate being hot, I think it is by design. See: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-gaming-review,10.html. Check out the MSI card for comparison: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_gtx_1080_ti_gaming_x_review,9.html

Some parts of the back plate are reaching 72c! That'll burn your finger if you aren't careful but those components are designed to operate that hot.

Because card manufacturers are now properly using the back plate to cool rather than 'trapping' the heat, these cards are 'appearing' to be hot. When in reality those components have always been running this hot we just weren't as aware cause it wasn't transferring through the plate.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> It's a shame people are having all these issues.
> 
> I haven't repasted mine and I have it clocking and holding at 2101Mhz in most games. Very demanding games it may drop to 2088Mhz. Benching it drops to 2063Mhz at the lowest... I am only considering repasting cause I want better temps but I dont want to poke the bear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I do have an aggressive fan profile, 80% fan and 60c and 100% fan at 70c. Normal temps hover around 60c-63c in games. 67c in benches.
> 
> I do seem to get these little stutters in games sometimes (Mainly when running at 4k via DSR) but I can live with it. I write that off to my PC being 3-4 years old now.
> 
> In regards to the back plate being hot, I think it is by design. See: http://www.guru3d.com/articles-pages/gigabyte-aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-gaming-review,10.html. Check out the MSI card for comparison: http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/msi_gtx_1080_ti_gaming_x_review,9.html
> 
> Some parts of the back plate are reaching 72c! That'll burn your finger if you aren't careful but those components are designed to operate that hot.
> 
> Because card manufacturers are now properly using the back plate to cool rather than 'trapping' the heat, these cards are 'appearing' to be hot. When in reality those components have always been running this hot we just weren't as aware cause it wasn't transferring through the plate.


Wow that's a great card! You really hit the lottery on that one. I have the regular Aorus. My card is a pretty good underclocker. I'm hitting 2050 at 1.00v (Drops down to 2038 in the witcher). I haven't really pushed higher clocks yet since I've just been playing around with some underclocking, but on custom curves I've set the core to 2063 and the voltage ended up jumping to 1.063v. Passed all the benches and some gaming I'm going crazy waiting for this waterblock to be released. My temps are really good be though. In the high 40's while gaming and 55C TOPS while benching. Haven't even repasted. Have some Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads and kryonaut thermal late waiting to go on the block.

Edit : what voltage are you running?


----------



## Douse

Yeah very pleased! Definitely got lucky









Those clocks/voltages are amazing! And those temps&#8230;.wow! Can't imagine your temps when you put it under water&#8230;.

I don't have a screenshot on me because I am at work but I have everything pretty much maxed out in MSI Afterburner.

Running F3 BIOS: Core Voltage 100%, Power 125%, Core Clock +63, Memory +500.

I am curious about my memory clock because you just mentioned that clocking the memory too hard actually hindered your score. I might dial the memory back and see how it goes&#8230;

Voltage can go to the max according to GPU-Z which I think from memory is 1.093V.

EDIT:
So I re-ran a supo benchmark with my memory clocked to +250 (instead if +500) and I definitely scored lower. Just shy of 10k. Tried it again back at +500 and I scored 10196 which is around what I normally get. So I guess I don't appear to be having throttling as a result of my memory clocked to hard. Which is good!!


----------



## mrshady

So this thread has me a little worried now, my card just arrived and is waiting for me at home now. What benchmarks/stress tests do people suggest being run? I don't mind not having the best of the best card, but stability at advertised speeds is a must.

EDIT: Lurker for many years, but registered account an account nearly 2 years ago.... and this was my first post!


----------



## DisposableHero7

@mrshady:

I use several benchmarks.

A:
Very easy to use and free* are the UNIGINE benchmarks "Heaven", "Valley" and the new "Superposition". All of them are quite taxing on the system and will easily crash or give an error-message when your system is not stable.

B:
Then there is always the old classic 3DMark, either in its older installment 3DMark11, or in the more recent which is only called 3DMark. They offer multiple tests and a demo. They are also quite taxing on your hardware and alike will reveal instabilities.

But 3DMark's free versions are rather limited in options and mostly only allow a single, certain preset to be benched. A regular single PC version that lets you change more settings costs money, unless you haven't gotten a version included with any of your graficscards in the past. I was lucky to get 1 PC licenses for 3DMark Vantage, 3DMark 11 and the recent one always with my puchased gfx-cards. However the last card that gave me one was my 780 purchased in 2013. Since than i havent seen any cards beeing advertised to come with a 3DMark license...

C:
If you truly want to stress your system, even over a longer period of time, you can use "FurMark'" as well. It's not that much of a benchmark to brag about and to compare scores, but it REALY puts the heat to your rig and will definatly uncover even hidden or longterm stability issues your system might have. Be aware though that FurMark, unlike other benchmarks, is intentionally designed to heat up your gfx-card. Not only does it push GPU utilisation to 99/100%, but it does it with shaders and algorithms that deliberatly are programed to cause as much heat in the GPU as possible, not put out as much frames as possible. So i would not leave it running unattended the first time.

*(Superpostions free version is a bit limited, but not as much as the free 3DMarks).


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> So far from what I've read on this thread and reddit etc, it seems the regular Aorus has less issues compared to the extreme. However, it may be attributed to the lesser sample size of regular Aorus userbase.
> 
> Will be putting in my regular Aorus tomorrow, testing & re-pasting. Hope I have the same good luck as you


Maybe I got lucky with my thermal paste job, im boosting around 2037-2000Mhz with no volts too on +35 core and +400mem.

Maybe because I was one of the first to get the 1080 Ti, I got it directly from Gigabyte/Aorus facebook fan page. They allocated 10 Xtremes, 10 Aorus and 10 G1's for preorder with exclusive swag and shipping before even Newegg got their supply of Aorus cards.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> So far from what I've read on this thread and reddit etc, it seems the regular Aorus has less issues compared to the extreme. However, it may be attributed to the lesser sample size of regular Aorus userbase.
> 
> Will be putting in my regular Aorus tomorrow, testing & re-pasting. Hope I have the same good luck as you


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Maybe I got lucky with my thermal paste job, im boosting around 2037-2000Mhz with no volts too on +35 core and +400mem.
> 
> Maybe because I was one of the first to get the 1080 Ti, I got it directly from Gigabyte/Aorus facebook fan page. They allocated 10 Xtremes, 10 Aorus and 10 G1's for preorder with exclusive swag and shipping before even Newegg got their supply of Aorus cards.


you know, you probably did get a super binned one.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> you know, you probably did get a super binned one.


Maybe I should probably check it's boundaries again. Because when I got it I couldn't go past 2050MHz with a custom voltage curve. And my drivers crashed with any sort of overclock on PU Battlegrounds.

Now after my fresh Win10 install my card just boosts fine on PU Battlegrounds and haven't had a single crash now.


----------



## KJZ87

Got my 2nd Xtreme after RMAing the dead one a couple of weeks ago. Tested it for several hours; no artifacting like the last one before it died. And no coil whine.

I used MSI Afterburner to raise the power limit to 125%. Not yet adjusted the core/memory clocks. According to HWin064 the GPU clock had a max of 2037 mhz while i was testing it.

I guess there is little room to OC it then?


----------



## Douse

Looks like a good card. Even in its current state I would be happy with it. Boosting over 2ghz out of the box is a good thing.

Hey can someone tell me what the go is with the voltage curve. I found that bumping the core voltage +100% produces pretty much the exact curve that the tutorial says to create.. Where 1.093v is at 2101...

So don't really see the value in it. At least not for what the curve is auto generating for the xtreme at max volts?


----------



## Slackaveli

the value is in adjusting the "subvoltages" frequencies , just for piece of mind. say after you warm up you drop to 1974 . you can go to that voltage point and bump that particular bin to 2000 and then when in a like situation it will hold 2000.

It's other use is for undervolting. no way to do that w/o the curve.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrshady*
> 
> So this thread has me a little worried now, my card just arrived and is waiting for me at home now. What benchmarks/stress tests do people suggest being run? I don't mind not having the best of the best card, but stability at advertised speeds is a must.
> 
> EDIT: Lurker for many years, but registered account an account nearly 2 years ago.... and this was my first post!


Welcome. Let us know how it goes. I wouldn't be to worried. You generally read more about people with issues than those who are happy with their cards because they don't bother posting anything.

DisposableHero gave some great options, but I would really avoid Furmark. Not a true real world test and I have heard of it causing damage to some GPU's because it pushes them past specifications. This was with AMD cards (hot as hell anyway) and may not be the same with GPU Boost 3.0 but I would still personally avoid it. 4k Super Position, Unigen Heaven and 3DMark Timespy are my go to tests/benches.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> the value is in adjusting the "subvoltages" frequencies , just for piece of mind. say after you warm up you drop to 1974 . you can go to that voltage point and bump that particular bin to 2000 and then when in a like situation it will hold 2000.
> 
> It's other use is for undervolting. no way to do that w/o the curve.


Yeah ok, I might leave it. Lol every time I go to tweak something on my card it already is optimal







Not used to being this hands off hahaha


----------



## satinghostrider

Hey Guys,

I have been following this thread since I got my Aorus and you guys are really a helpful bunch.
I am on the Gigabyte Aorus Extreme version and Slackaveli, you have been really awesome.
I used your fan curve in the previous posts and I am getting extremely good results based on this.
Guys, running your fan with a good fan curve allows you to have a sustained boost at high clocks which I have observed.

My core is stable in games but my memory overclock seems to be very bad in some games. I can bench but games like Battlefront throws me out after a while so I run no memory overclock in all games.

F3 Bios : (No Voltage) +22 Core / +200 Memory








[/IMG]










I updated to the F4 bios even though I had no issues with stability on F3 and I realise that stock to stock, the GPU Boost is alot less aggressive. It runs slightly cooler too probably due to a lower base (everything on stock). You will only boost high 1,800Mhz low 1,900s with everything stock (including Power and Thermal Limit) compared to the F3 Bios which boosted over 2,000Mhz. So what I did was use Slackaveli fan curve and set my Power Limit to 125% and Thermal Limit to 87 Degrees with no overclocks, and I get 2,037.5Mhz GPU Boost with a maximum temperature of around 60-62 Degrees maximum in my airconditioned room. This is PERFECT for gaming with full stability as I have played Battlefront 3 hours straight with no crashes. Frostbite engines are very sensitive to overclocks. Singapore is tropical weather so I have to run the air-conditioner to get these temps. I am thinking of re-pastingmy card but for sure my warranty is voided but I may do it sooner as I realize thermals is so important on these cards.

F4 Bios : (No Voltage) +22 Core / +200 Memory










I also benchmarked on Timespy and I got around the same as the F3 Bios with 125% Power Limit and 91 Degrees Thermal limit. F4 Bios you can max out at 150% which is eventually the same as the F3 running at 125%. The F4 bios seems to allow clocks holding for longer before they drop if you have a good chip. Slackaveli and some of the others may have been much luckier with better binned chips to allow them to hit higher. I have not tried with more voltage and I would only try it once I re-paste my TIM as the thermals are way too sensitive with respect to clockspeed.

My setup is with a 120mm Static Pressure fan from Corsair and I seem to drop about 3 degrees having it over the rear copper plate which helps as well.


----------



## Slackaveli

what happened to the thread? missing a bunch of posts.


----------



## satinghostrider

I added a post but it got deleted.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I added a post but it got deleted.


I saw your post. You are not going crazy...


----------



## satinghostrider

I shall just post it again.

Hey Guys,

I have been following this thread since I got my Aorus and you guys are really a helpful bunch.
I am on the Gigabyte Aorus Extreme version and Slackaveli, you have been really awesome.
I used your fan curve in the previous posts and I am getting extremely good results based on this.
Guys, running your fan with a good fan curve allows you to have a sustained boost at high clocks which I have observed.

My core is stable in games but my memory overclock seems to be very bad in some games. I can bench but games like Battlefront throws me out after a while so I run no memory overclock in all games.

*F3 Bios : (No Voltage) +22 Core / +200 Memory*





I updated to the F4 bios even though I had no issues with stability on F3 and I realise that stock to stock, the GPU Boost is alot less aggressive. It runs slightly cooler too probably due to a lower base (everything on stock). You will only boost high 1,800Mhz low 1,900s with everything stock (including Power and Thermal Limit) compared to the F3 Bios which boosted over 2,000Mhz. So what I did was use Slackaveli fan curve and set my Power Limit to 125% and Thermal Limit to 87 Degrees with no overclocks, and I get 2,037.5Mhz GPU Boost with a maximum temperature of around 60-62 Degrees maximum in my airconditioned room. This is PERFECT for gaming with full stability as I have played Battlefront 3 hours straight with no crashes. Frostbite engines are very sensitive to overclocks. Singapore is tropical weather so I have to run the air-conditioner to get these temps. I am thinking of re-pasting my card but for sure my warranty is voided but I may do it sooner as I realize thermals is so important on these cards.

*F4 Bios : (No Voltage) +22 Core / +200 Memory*



I also benchmarked on Timespy and I got around the same as the F3 Bios with 125% Power Limit and 91 Degrees Thermal limit. F4 Bios you can max out at 150% which is eventually the same as the F3 running at 125%. The F4 bios seems to allow clocks holding for longer before they drop if you have a good chip. Slackaveli and some of the others may have been much luckier with better binned chips to allow them to hit higher. I have not tried with more voltage and I would only try it once I re-paste my TIM as the thermals are way too sensitive with respect to clockspeed.

My setup is with a 120mm Static Pressure fan from Corsair and I seem to drop about 3 degrees having it over the rear copper plate which helps as well.


----------



## Douse

Nice rig satinghostrider









So is that just a fan on the back plate? No heat sink?


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Nice rig satinghostrider
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So is that just a fan on the back plate? No heat sink?


Thanks mate! No I didn't put a heatsink on the backplate at the back of the core for one reason. Look at the torn down photo of the Aorus. The centre is empty and the area surrounding it is affixed with a thermal pad.










What I did though is got elevated rubber feet placed at the bottom of the fan for some elevation so that the air can escape through the openings in which the rubber feet serves to do with some slight elevation. I think having a heatsink there might add a degree in reduction but brings a host of mounting issues so I left it out. Plus the card is already heavy as it is with a slight sag which I fixed with a GPU holder. Nevertheless, I am happy with the results this far.


----------



## dude0014

Does anyone have the download file to share for the MSI afterburner 4.4.0 beta 6. Can't find it anywhere! The original links are missing

Edit: Found it : http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5412373&postcount=216

This works, whereas previous links posted in the thread re-directed me


----------



## UdoG

Check the post below:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/420_30#post_26048253


----------



## xentrox

So I took this thing off and re-applied TIM.. A lot of the pads were not really properly aligned over the components they were trying to cover so I reseated them, applied AS5 cuz that's all I had laying around. Huge improvement so far. I'm idling @ 35 with fan @ 40%. Full load barely breaks 60 C now and fan @ around 60%. Going to be keep it. But still want to put it under water at some point.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> So I took this thing off and re-applied TIM.. A lot of the pads were not really properly aligned over the components they were trying to cover so I reseated them, applied AS5 cuz that's all I had laying around. Huge improvement so far. I'm idling @ 35 with fan @ 40%. Full load barely breaks 60 C now and fan @ around 60%. Going to be keep it. But still want to put it under water at some point.


Wow that's really making me tempted to retim the beast. I just wished Fujipoly or some good thermal pad manufacturer has pre-cut thermal pads for the Aorus. Makes it a one stop for changing the TIM and the pads at one short.

For those that changed the thermal pads, what was the thickness of the pads? 0.5 or 1.0?

I'm thinking of changing mine out once I retim the card.


----------



## mrshady

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> @mrshady:
> 
> I use several benchmarks.
> 
> A:
> Very easy to use and free* are the UNIGINE benchmarks "Heaven", "Valley" and the new "Superposition". All of them are quite taxing on the system and will easily crash or give an error-message when your system is not stable.
> 
> *(Superpostions free version is a bit limited, but not as much as the free 3DMarks).


Thanks for the tips! It has been a while since I've had a high end graphics card (my last good GPU was an 8800 GTX which I replaced with a GTX 750 when my gaming needs were basically WoW and QuakeLive... until now). I didn't have much time after work, so I'm starting with the Superposition benchmark, especially since it included VR tests which is where I'm headed with this system over the summer.

Thus far it looks like it's stable and operating nominally. I did not use the PCIE splitter the card came with, but rather ran 2 PCIE cables from the PSU (Corsair AX860i). This may just be silicon lottery that my card runs a bit hotter (or I need to repaste it?) compared to what others are reporting (30C to 65C is what I've seen a trend of 'good' cards).

Unlike others in this thread I could run using all 3 presets (Silent, Gaming, OC) and there was no stability issues. Gaming setting hit 2000 Mhz, OC hit 2025Mhz. Temp range was 45C to 84C. When i took the side of my case off this dropped 5-10C! Do these numbers make sense?

I was able to get a few games in (QuakeLive, Paladins, and finally H1Z1 which I couldnt play before). All solid FPS with no artifacts or other noticeable issues, so I'm quite pleased!

Lastly, I ran the benchmarks a few more times and tried removing the case and using a IR Thermometer I checked how hot that copper plate was getting and that's where it got interesting. The center'ish part of the plate was ~50C, the edge near where its' screws are were 55-60C and the non-copper back plate itself was 66C. I definitely need to get the airflow up in my case, especially across the back of this card.

I'm going to try some overclocking tonight, what would be a typical OC to first try?

@Douse: Thanks for the advice, I think I'll avoid Furmark as the last thing I need is CPU damage!

And I agree with satinghostrider, everyone in this thread is an extremely helpful bunch, thanks!


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrshady*
> 
> Thanks for the tips! It has been a while since I've had a high end graphics card (my last good GPU was an 8800 GTX which I replaced with a GTX 750 when my gaming needs were basically WoW and QuakeLive... until now). I didn't have much time after work, so I'm starting with the Superposition benchmark, especially since it included VR tests which is where I'm headed with this system over the summer.
> 
> Thus far it looks like it's stable and operating nominally. I did not use the PCIE splitter the card came with, but rather ran 2 PCIE cables from the PSU (Corsair AX860i). This may just be silicon lottery that my card runs a bit hotter (or I need to repaste it?) compared to what others are reporting (30C to 65C is what I've seen a trend of 'good' cards).
> 
> Unlike others in this thread I could run using all 3 presets (Silent, Gaming, OC) and there was no stability issues. Gaming setting hit 2000 Mhz, OC hit 2025Mhz. Temp range was 45C to 84C. When i took the side of my case off this dropped 5-10C! Do these numbers make sense?
> 
> I was able to get a few games in (QuakeLive, Paladins, and finally H1Z1 which I couldnt play before). All solid FPS with no artifacts or other noticeable issues, so I'm quite pleased!
> 
> Lastly, I ran the benchmarks a few more times and tried removing the case and using a IR Thermometer I checked how hot that copper plate was getting and that's where it got interesting. The center'ish part of the plate was ~50C, the edge near where its' screws are were 55-60C and the non-copper back plate itself was 66C. I definitely need to get the airflow up in my case, especially across the back of this card.
> 
> I'm going to try some overclocking tonight, what would be a typical OC to first try?
> 
> @Douse: Thanks for the advice, I think I'll avoid Furmark as the last thing I need is CPU damage!
> 
> And I agree with satinghostrider, everyone in this thread is an extremely helpful bunch, thanks!


Awesome! Try running your power limits and thermal limits at max, fan set to max and run some benchmarks with your side case open. I suspect you're running auto fan profile which is why you're seeing higher temps than usual. During this benchmark runs, don't add any core or memory first. Use GPU-Z to see what is your maximum boosted frequency and you can tweak it from there. This should be a good starting point.

For gaming and normal usage, run Slackaveli's awesome fan profile. I wouldn't use the Aorus software because the CPU usage is sitting at almost 20% and there is some bugs with the Aorus engine software. Try running some benchmarks or games and look at your task manager, I believe you'll see the Aorus engine software using 20% of CPU which is crazy.

I use the MSI afterburner as with most on this forum.

Use this fan profile for normal gaming, etc.

38 Degrees - 0% Fan
45 Degrees -50% Fan
58 Degrees -90% Fan
63 Degrees -100% Fan


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I added a post but it got deleted.


That's weird! I may be the thread starter, but i don't have the power to delete posts.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's weird! I may be the thread starter, but i don't have the power to delete posts.


I think it's something to do with the fact I'm a fresh member so it takes a while to appear or held in review by mods. But everything seems nice and dandy now.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I added a post but it got deleted.


saw it in my email but not on the thread. weird.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Wow that's really making me tempted to retim the beast. I just wished Fujipoly or some good thermal pad manufacturer has pre-cut thermal pads for the Aorus. Makes it a one stop for changing the TIM and the pads at one short.
> 
> For those that changed the thermal pads, what was the thickness of the pads? 0.5 or 1.0?
> 
> I'm thinking of changing mine out once I retim the card.


Thermal grizzly kryonaut, man.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> saw it in my email but not on the thread. weird.


They added it back so there is a double post now in the previous page.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> They added it back so there is a double post now in the previous page.


yeah i see it now, but it confused the hell out of me last night lol.

ya'll check this out. I think I broke the test by doing so well at my subtimings on my ram. LOL!!

http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/3571964



Tells me I am below potential because I am at 2133Mhz, but my score is higher than anybody else with my ram kit. That's funny right there!~ ANd no, Userbench, I wont use that loosey-goosey, high voltage XMP profile, bruh.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> yeah i see it now, but it confused the hell out of me last night lol.
> 
> ya'll check this out. I think I broke the test by doing so well at my subtimings on my ram. LOL!!
> 
> http://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/3571964
> 
> 
> 
> Tells me I am below potential because I am at 2133Mhz, but my score is higher than anybody else with my ram kit. That's funny right there!~ ANd no, Userbench, I wont use that loosey-goosey, high voltage XMP profile, bruh.


I thought even my 2666mhz ram kit was on the low side when everyone else is 3000mhz or higher but it seems low latency is still key for Intel Platforms. For Ryzen, it appears the higher clocked higher latency memory works better. So I wouldn't be surprised honestly.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I thought even my 2666mhz ram kit was on the low side when everyone else is 3000mhz or higher but it seems low latency is still key for Intel Platforms. For Ryzen, it appears the higher clocked higher latency memory works better. So I wouldn't be surprised honestly.


ddr3's latency is so much lower than ddr4, i guess that's why. I score good at 2400 c-10, too, but that's 1.65v. I can run these manually at 9,10,11,27 1T @ 2133. XMP wont let me get away with the 1T either, and at 1.48v, too. even tightened up some subtimings, mostly read related, especially cached read (since I have the huge L4 cache). not bad!


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> ddr3's latency is so much lower than ddr4, i guess that's why. I score good at 2400 c-10, too, but that's 1.65v. I can run these manually at 9,10,11,27 1T @ 2133. XMP wont let me get away with the 1T either, and at 1.48v, too. even tightened up some subtimings, mostly read related, especially cached read (since I have the huge L4 cache). not bad!


I forgot Z97 was DDR3. If that's the case, then that's quite a feat! Anyway higher memory clocks do not translate into higher FPS in games unless you're talking 1080p then maybe slightly.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I forgot Z97 was DDR3. If that's the case, then that's quite a feat! Anyway higher memory clocks do not translate into higher FPS in games unless you're talking 1080p then maybe slightly.


yeah, true that. just need enough bandwidth to not choke the cpu. another reason why i wasnt trippin about 2400Mhz, even though that's the ram i bought. I knew going in I'd undervolt it and tighten it up. 5775-c actually calls for the ddr3L mems. It's fine with regular, but pushing to 1.65v may not be the best for long term memory controller health lol. Just makes me feel better about it at 1.48v.


----------



## ad3k

has anyone try vmod(aka get more power limit) skip 3 resistors (5mo) yet?


----------



## dude0014

My quick review: Aorus 1080 Ti (non-extreme)

Boosted to 1999 Mhz core clock out of the box. Worked with the voltage curve (which for some reason is harder to work with in this card than my old 1080 Amp! Extreme). Managed stable @ 2062 Mhz initially.
Load temps with heaven benchmark running for 15 mins peaked at 60C @ 100% fan speed

Now the fun part as I promised earlier. Opened the card and applied CLU on the GPU die (liquid metal - Coollaboratory Liquid ultra). Assembled it back very carefully. The main worry I had was the thermal pads for the VRAMs etc, as they looked like they could fall off any second.

Ran heaven bechmark again. Now the votage curve re-adjusted itself. (Why?)
Managed stable 2075 Mhz stable @ 1075 mv (downclocks from 2088 within a minute or so)

The temps post CLU application? - Heaven benchmark running for 15 mins peaked at 55C @ 100% fan speed (with a slightly higher GPU clock speed)

This is a link to my Valid Timespy result http://www.3dmark.com/spy/1681239#
Could probably aim for a higher result with some more tweaking, but I'm done for the day.

Extra thoughts: I can conclude, from reading the reviews on Newegg, reddit & posts on this thread, along with my experience, that the Aorus 1080 Ti Non-Extreme seems to have significantly less issues and overall better chips than the more expensive Aorus extreme 1080 Ti

Future project: Will stick an AIO cooler on the copper part of the backplate and see if it helps..will update later


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> [...]
> 
> Extra thoughts: I can conclude, from reading the reviews on Newegg, reddit & posts on this thread, along with my experience, that the Aorus 1080 Ti Non-Extreme seems to have significantly less issues and overall better chips than the more expensive Aorus extreme 1080 Ti
> 
> [...]


Wait for it ... in a couple of month Gigabyte will have it figured out ... someone sabotaged the gauntled cherrypicking process at Gigabyte so that all the good chips landed on non-extreme and all the bad chips on the Xtreme cards









I dropped my Xtreme off at the post office this morning, should be at my retailer tomorrow.
I'm realy curious if my replacement card will do any better ...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I picked up a Kill-A-Watt since they are so cheap and I am interested in how many watts my computer puts out. With a 6700k @ 1.38v & 4.7Ghz, G.Skill Trident Z 3400Mhz RAM @ 1.65v and my Aorus @ 1.00v & 2050 my max power draw during SuperPosition 4k was 467w. I was thinking it would be higher than that considering I'm running two D5 pumps, 14 radiator fans, and one case fan for exhaust.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Wait for it ... in a couple of month Gigabyte will have it figured out ... someone sabotaged the gauntled cherrypicking process at Gigabyte so that all the good chips landed on non-extreme and all the bad chips on the Xtreme cards
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dropped my Xtreme off at the post office this morning, should be at my retailer tomorrow.
> I'm realy curious if my replacement card will do any better ...


hilarious. as i have non extreme and its a 2076+ card all day.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> hilarious. as i have non extreme and its a 2076+ card all day.


Slackavelli,

My load temp are around 62-63 Degrees with almost 100% fan based on your fan curve.
By re-tim, what would actually happen? Would the card boost higher than what I have now or just hold the boost for longer? Or would it add voltage? My max voltage now without any voltage is sitting at 1.05V. Nothing more than that.

I am a little confused on what happens other than lower temps. If I am at load at 63 degrees now, would below 60 means I would boost another 13Mhz higher or something due to thermals?

Thanks in advance man! Wanna know this before re-timming my beast.

Those who have seen the thermal pads on the cards, do you know what is the thickness of the pads? Are they all the same thickness for the pads on the card, front and rear? Honestly feel like getting some Fujipoly to enhance the thermals of the card.

Cheers!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Slackavelli,
> 
> My load temp are around 62-63 Degrees with almost 100% fan based on your fan curve.
> By re-tim, what would actually happen? Would the card boost higher than what I have now or just hold the boost for longer? Or would it add voltage? My max voltage now without any voltage is sitting at 1.05V. Nothing more than that.
> 
> I am a little confused on what happens other than lower temps. If I am at load at 63 degrees now, would below 60 means I would boost another 13Mhz higher or something due to thermals?
> 
> Thanks in advance man! Wanna know this before re-timming my beast.
> 
> Those who have seen the thermal pads on the cards, do you know what is the thickness of the pads? Are they all the same thickness for the pads on the card, front and rear? Honestly feel like getting some Fujipoly to enhance the thermals of the card.
> 
> Cheers!


Lower temps does a couple of things
1. NVIDIA's 3.0 boost will give you another 13mhz on the bin with every 5 degree drop
2. More stability, you may find you gain one or two more bins of clocks. At least with my card, I gained 26mhz of stability by going from 70 degrees - 60 degrees.
3. Lower power consumption, at the full 1093mv, I dropped something like 5-10W of power consumption going from 70-60 degrees. This means less power throttling.

As for the thermal pads, Gigabyte use 1mm for the VRAM and 1.5mm for the VRMs. You will need 2-3mm for backside cooling. As far as I can tell, the only pads really worth changing are the VRAM pads. You will likely gain a little bit of Mem OC but given how much Fujiploy costs, I don't think its worth it. Its definitely not worth it to fujiploy the VRMs, they are already overkill cooled.

I just used cheap thermal putty for the backside cooling. Imma experiment with using Fujiploy or a copper shim for the central copper core padding to see if that drops the core temps by another 2-3 degrees but a large sheet of fujiploy in Australia costs like close to $100 so at this rate, it might be better for me to get a waterblock and watercool.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Slackavelli,
> 
> My load temp are around 62-63 Degrees with almost 100% fan based on your fan curve.
> By re-tim, what would actually happen? Would the card boost higher than what I have now or just hold the boost for longer? Or would it add voltage? My max voltage now without any voltage is sitting at 1.05V. Nothing more than that.
> 
> I am a little confused on what happens other than lower temps. If I am at load at 63 degrees now, would below 60 means I would boost another 13Mhz higher or something due to thermals?
> 
> Thanks in advance man! Wanna know this before re-timming my beast.
> 
> Those who have seen the thermal pads on the cards, do you know what is the thickness of the pads? Are they all the same thickness for the pads on the card, front and rear? Honestly feel like getting some Fujipoly to enhance the thermals of the card.
> 
> Cheers!


yeah, man, you gain the 13mhz or 26 mhz you lose when downclocking due to voltage. wont push your max clocks, but helps sustained clocks. as well as gpu life.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Lower temps does a couple of things
> 1. NVIDIA's 3.0 boost will give you another 13mhz on the bin with every 5 degree drop
> 2. More stability, you may find you gain one or two more bins of clocks. At least with my card, I gained 26mhz of stability by going from 70 degrees - 60 degrees.
> 3. Lower power consumption, at the full 1093mv, I dropped something like 5-10W of power consumption going from 70-60 degrees. This means less power throttling.
> 
> As for the thermal pads, Gigabyte use 1mm for the VRAM and 1.5mm for the VRMs. You will need 2-3mm for backside cooling. As far as I can tell, the only pads really worth changing are the VRAM pads. You will likely gain a little bit of Mem OC but given how much Fujiploy costs, I don't think its worth it. Its definitely not worth it to fujiploy the VRMs, they are already overkill cooled.
> 
> I just used cheap thermal putty for the backside cooling. Imma experiment with using Fujiploy or a copper shim for the central copper core padding to see if that drops the core temps by another 2-3 degrees but a large sheet of fujiploy in Australia costs like close to $100 so at this rate, it might be better for me to get a waterblock and watercool.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> yeah, man, you gain the 13mhz or 26 mhz you lose when downclocking due to voltage. wont push your max clocks, but helps sustained clocks. as well as gpu life.


Thanks a ton guys!
Maybe I will just go the re-tim and leave the thermal pads as it is.
Not like I got the Slackaveli binned chip.









Perhaps after doing this re-tim I will start playing with the voltages and see how that works out.
Now just to get the Thermal Grizzly it is amazingly hard to find it here in Singapore and ebay costs 30 USD with shipping to Singapore.


----------



## Douse

Right! Ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. $50 (AUD) delivered. Ouch









I'll be replacing the pads on the memory as I have sheet of fujipoly already and leave the rest of the pads.

Probably arrive in a few days. I'll let you guys know how I go


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Thanks a ton guys!
> Maybe I will just go the re-tim and leave the thermal pads as it is.
> Not like I got the Slackaveli binned chip.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps after doing this re-tim I will start playing with the voltages and see how that works out.
> Now just to get the Thermal Grizzly it is amazingly hard to find it here in Singapore and ebay costs 30 USD with shipping to Singapore.


$30! damn. ouch.

people have been saying that after gauntlet testing some of the chips got mixed up and they made extremes out of reggies nad reggies out of extremes. And judging by what i've seen, it is sounding more and more true.

double ouch!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Right! Ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. $50 (AUD) delivered. Ouch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be replacing the pads on the memory as I have sheet of fujipoly already and leave the rest of the pads.
> 
> Probably arrive in a few days. I'll let you guys know how I go


well, guys, cant defend those prices but it is the best! Living abroad has it's advantages but shipping isnt one of them :/


----------



## ZacTheZeek

Apologies for poor links, site doesn't want to filter to embed the image for me. My Aorus non-extreme has been absolutely incredible.

https://benchmark.unigine.com/leaderboards
http://image.prntscr.com/image/dae6fa6e0c944328a627b971b24f29a3.jpeg
http://image.prntscr.com/image/f13dcfc4c0ff4bd682e9452108cb9f41.jpeg

Superposition_Benchmark_v1.0_11118_1493786476.png 600k .png file


Superposition_Benchmark_v1.0_6654_1493761049.png 603k .png file


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> people have been saying that after gauntlet testing some of the chips got mixed up and they made extremes out of reggies nad reggies out of extremes. And judging by what i've seen, it is sounding more and more true./


Wow, much LOL. Guess I got lucky. Going to be bad for GB reputation if true...


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Wow, much LOL. Guess I got lucky. Going to be bad for GB reputation if true...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> $30! damn. ouch.
> 
> people have been saying that after gauntlet testing some of the chips got mixed up and they made extremes out of reggies nad reggies out of extremes. And judging by what i've seen, it is sounding more and more true.
> 
> double ouch!
> well, guys, cant defend those prices but it is the best! Living abroad has it's advantages but shipping isnt one of them :/


Oh well might as well make the best of it anyway. Btw, what method did you use to spread the TIM? Spread or Spread + a mini pea in the centre?

Thanks Guru.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Oh well might as well make the best of it anyway. Btw, what method did you use to spread the TIM? Spread or Spread + a mini pea in the centre?
> 
> Thanks Guru.


According to Thermal Grizzly, spread approach. The tube is meant to come with an applicator of some sort....yet to confirm if this is true


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Right! Ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. $50 (AUD) delivered. Ouch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be replacing the pads on the memory as I have sheet of fujipoly already and leave the rest of the pads.
> 
> Probably arrive in a few days. I'll let you guys know how I go


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZacTheZeek*
> 
> Apologies for poor links, site doesn't want to filter to embed the image for me. My Aorus non-extreme has been absolutely incredible.
> 
> https://benchmark.unigine.com/leaderboards
> http://image.prntscr.com/image/dae6fa6e0c944328a627b971b24f29a3.jpeg
> http://image.prntscr.com/image/f13dcfc4c0ff4bd682e9452108cb9f41.jpeg
> 
> Superposition_Benchmark_v1.0_11118_1493786476.png 600k .png file
> 
> 
> Superposition_Benchmark_v1.0_6654_1493761049.png 603k .png file


well look who it is


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Right! Ordered some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut. $50 (AUD) delivered. Ouch
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be replacing the pads on the memory as I have sheet of fujipoly already and leave the rest of the pads.
> 
> Probably arrive in a few days. I'll let you guys know how I go


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZacTheZeek*
> 
> Apologies for poor links, site doesn't want to filter to embed the image for me. My Aorus non-extreme has been absolutely incredible.
> 
> https://benchmark.unigine.com/leaderboards
> http://image.prntscr.com/image/dae6fa6e0c944328a627b971b24f29a3.jpeg
> http://image.prntscr.com/image/f13dcfc4c0ff4bd682e9452108cb9f41.jpeg
> 
> Superposition_Benchmark_v1.0_11118_1493786476.png 600k .png file
> 
> 
> Superposition_Benchmark_v1.0_6654_1493761049.png 603k .png file


well look who it is
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Oh well might as well make the best of it anyway. Btw, what method did you use to spread the TIM? Spread or Spread + a mini pea in the centre?
> 
> Thanks Guru.


NO PEA. spread thin across the whole thing. cpu=pea blob, gpu=thin spread. stuff is super easy to work with. The enclosed tip is pretty great.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> According to Thermal Grizzly, spread approach. The tube is meant to come with an applicator of some sort....yet to confirm if this is true


confirmed, and it works great.ez pz


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> well look who it is
> NO PEA. spread thin across the whole thing. cpu=pea blob, gpu=thin spread. stuff is super easy to work with. The enclosed tip is pretty great.
> confirmed, and it works great.ez pz


Excellent. I'll get it done and repost my temps. Thanks much. ?


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> According to Thermal Grizzly, spread approach. The tube is meant to come with an applicator of some sort....yet to confirm if this is true


Honestly, I can't recommend coolaboratory liquid pro enough.

I have shaky hands, but with some care, and a couple of YouTube videos on how to apply. It's the easiest TIM to apply for me. Plus you have the knowledge that the TIM is well applied with full spread on the die, unlike pea method etc with conventional pastes.

I've used it on 4 gtx cards so far. 3 mine & 1 friends, without any issues. 2 of them having been running for >2 years or so without any change in temps since application.

If you have any questions still, I'll be happy to help


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Honestly, I can't recommend coolaboratory liquid pro enough.
> 
> I have shaky hands, but with some care, and a couple of YouTube videos on how to apply. It's the easiest TIM to apply for me. Plus you have the knowledge that the TIM is well applied with full spread on the die, unlike pea method etc with conventional pastes.
> 
> I've used it on 4 gtx cards so far. 3 mine & 1 friends, without any issues. 2 of them having been running for >2 years or so without any change in temps since application.
> 
> If you have any questions still, I'll be happy to help


But as i read online in time it affects copper , aluminium...i have clu and kryonaut , but if i change it i will put kryo , clu is risky , i bet i voids warranty for sure , since it leaves a mark on the heatskink !


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I picked up a Kill-A-Watt since they are so cheap and I am interested in how many watts my computer puts out. With a 6700k @ 1.38v & 4.7Ghz, G.Skill Trident Z 3400Mhz RAM @ 1.65v and my Aorus @ 1.00v & 2050 my max power draw during SuperPosition 4k was 467w. I was thinking it would be higher than that considering I'm running two D5 pumps, 14 radiator fans, and one case fan for exhaust.


i have kind of the same pc ,it also depends on the game , i get between 470-530w


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> But as i read online in time it affects copper , aluminium...i have clu and kryonaut , but if i change it i will put kryo , clu is risky , i bet i voids warranty for sure , since it leaves a mark on the heatskink !


It corrodes aluminum for sure. We don't have any on the die or the copper heat sink.

The effect on copper is limited to staining/bonding. Which is a non issue really.

For warranty? I haven't come across any reports that RMA was refused for CLU. Also, I highly doubt they will open up the card to see if the TIM was changed. All they do is plug in the card and see if it's working or not and inspect for any external damage


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ad3k*
> 
> has anyone try vmod(aka get more power limit) skip 3 resistors (5mo) yet?


Do you mean the shunt mod? As shown here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1608437/tutorial-power-target-limit-hardware-mod-shunt-mod-for-titan-x-and-many-other-nvidia-gpus

I dont think these cards suffer from the same power restrictions that the 1080ti FEs experienced so I would be surprised if anyone would be doing this for these cards.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> According to Thermal Grizzly, spread approach. The tube is meant to come with an applicator of some sort....yet to confirm if this is true


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> But as i read online in time it affects copper , aluminium...i have clu and kryonaut , but if i change it i will put kryo , clu is risky , i bet i voids warranty for sure , since it leaves a mark on the heatskink !


all for 1c-2c less . it works great, but 8c or 10c... one destroys stuff , one doesnt. easy call to me, but i understand why some pick LM or Conductonaut. Im totally cool with Kryo, personally.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> all for 1c-2c less . it works great, but 8c or 10c... one destroys stuff , one doesnt. easy call to me, but i understand why some pick LM or Conductonaut. Im totally cool with Kryo, personally.


I only used conductonaut mostly because I ran out of Kryonaut and partly because the HS on mine doesn't look like its making good contact with the die.


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> But as i read online in time it affects copper , aluminium...i have clu and kryonaut , but if i change it i will put kryo , clu is risky , i bet i voids warranty for sure , since it leaves a mark on the heatskink !


Where does Arctic Silver 5 fall on this spectrum? Looks like I been out of the the TIM game for too long. I dont know what any of these Kryo, Clu and whatnots.. I'm assuming AS5 is safe?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I only used conductonaut mostly because I ran out of Kryonaut and partly because the HS on mine doesn't look like its making good contact with the die.


that is something to consider. if contact is an issue, condc/LM may actually provide a healthy benefit.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> Where does Arctic Silver 5 fall on this spectrum? Looks like I been out of the the TIM game for too long. I dont know what any of these Kryo, Clu and whatnots.. I'm assuming AS5 is safe?


safe, but only has half the gains of kryonaut. it's beastly.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Arctic Silver ... oh the memories.

If you still have it lying around, just use it up, but i wouldn't buy it anymore today.
Arcitc Silver has aged alot and simply can not compete with todays TIMs anymore.

Already a few years ago, i switched to Gelid GC-Extreme as my go to TIM, but the
Kryonaut paste from Grizzly is even better than that.

It will (of course dependant on the Setup, OC, cooling fans etc.) give you a decrease
in temperaturs of somewhere between 1-3°C compared to Gelid and an impressive
decrease of 6-8°C compared to Arctic Silver 5.


----------



## orion933

Hello !
i just buy a AORUS xtreme 1080ti !

And i have some questions because my card can't go past 110% power limit!
If I set to 125% crash in heaven and 3d mark stress test / firestrike ultra

I cant seems to OC it either. its very unstable except if i let the" stock clock" ( between 1890 and 1941 mhz)
im on F4 bios because I heard its a good bios fo stability and my temps are good (66°c full load)

I dont know if i should RMA ...
thought?

ps: i neved oc'ed a card before








So for now I just put power limit at 110% in afterburner and everything else to +0


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> Hello !
> i just buy a AORUS xtreme 1080ti !
> 
> And i have some questions because my card can't go past 110% power limit!
> If I set to 125% crash in heaven and 3d mark stress test / firestrike ultra
> 
> I cant seems to OC it either. its very unstable except if i let the" stock clock" ( between 1890 and 1941 mhz)
> im on F4 bios because I heard its a good bios fo stability and my temps are good (66°c full load)
> 
> I dont know if i should RMA ...
> thought?
> 
> ps: i neved oc'ed a card before
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So for now I just put power limit at 110% in afterburner and everything else to +0


Another case just adding to the trend of faulty Extreme cards...

People have suggested bad pascal chips in the card. But I doubt that so many Extreme editions have bad GPU's. It's likely a fault with the bios, or something in the card design itself. I saw a teardown video for the Aorus 1080 Ti (regular) which showed missing components, here 




Maybe these components or something else added to the Extreme version is causing issues?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Another case just adding to the trend of faulty Extreme cards...
> 
> People have suggested bad pascal chips in the card. But I doubt that so many Extreme editions have bad GPU's. It's likely a fault with the bios, or something in the card design itself. I saw a teardown video for the Aorus 1080 Ti (regular) which showed missing components, here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe these components or something else added to the Extreme version is causing issues?


rumor is they mixed up the regular and extreme chips post binning and a bunch of regular aorus went out as extremes, and extremes as regulars. Something about the first lot and they were trying to correct it. they supposedly had to retest all the extremes, and make a new bios. remember the last minute 1 week delay? yeah... the rumor says that's why the last minute low power bios wa developed to begin with and why extremes are f4 (worse) and regulars are f3(better). makes sense, actually. my regular is a 2088+ card on air.... that shouldnt happen. That card should have been an extreme.
Possible that's BS and they just suck at binning, but as they week has gone on since I heard that first, it seems more and more likely. i keep seeing terrible extremes and bad arsed regulars.


----------



## Rayzy

Got mine this week. I'm in love with this card haha









Only I can't seems to overclock it. can you guys please try to help? I feel like I'm doing something wrong.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1629508/gtx-1080-ti-aorus-wont-get-stable-on-oc


----------



## Slackaveli

use msi afterburner , not aorus software. then just try +13 (12.5, really. 2 for 25) bumps. you wont get to +100 , or may but not farther. common is +25, +50, +75.


----------



## Rayzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> use msi afterburner , not aorus software. then just try +13 (12.5, really. 2 for 25) bumps. you wont get to +100 , or may but not farther. common is +25, +50, +75.


25 seems to be stable. but boost won't go higher than 2000Mhz (starting from 2000 all down to 1980Mhz).

Here's MSI AB screenshot:


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayzy*
> 
> 25 seems to be stable. but boost won't go higher than 2000Mhz (starting from 2000 all down to 1980Mhz).
> 
> Here's MSI AB screenshot:


have you tried adding volts yet? to be clear, 2000Mhz is above average and borderline golden. fps difference in 4k from 2000 to 2100 is ~1-2fps. negligible. it is nice for bragging and benching, but, it's a good card. check out the main Ti owner's thread, OP has a bunch of tips. you should check out the curve video, good for tweaking those last drops out, plus it allows undervolting. some who cant get past 2000Mhz can still hold that 2000Mhz at 1v...

also, that is a large vram bump on these. my max is only +400. while finding your top core clocks, keep that vram around +250 or so and see if you can go higher on core.


----------



## Rayzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> have you tried adding volts yet? to be clear, 2000Mhz is above average and borderline golden. fps difference in 4k from 2000 to 2100 is ~1-2fps. negligible. it is nice for bragging and benching, but, it's a good card. check out the main Ti owner's thread, OP has a bunch of tips. But, you should check out the curve video, good for tweaking those last drops out, plus it allows undervolting. some who cant get past 2000Mhz can still hold that 2000Mhz at 1v...


Well, it's good to know. I actually agree - this card is fully extracted by GIGABYTE.

*But*, reading here that some cards might be faulty makes me wonder if my card is faulty too.
Yourself you wrote that yours is non-extreme version goes to 2088Mhz, while mine is but cannot go higher than 2050.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> have you tried adding volts yet? to be clear, 2000Mhz is above average and borderline golden. fps difference in 4k from 2000 to 2100 is ~1-2fps. negligible. it is nice for bragging and benching, but, it's a good card. check out the main Ti owner's thread, OP has a bunch of tips. you should check out the curve video, good for tweaking those last drops out, plus it allows undervolting. some who cant get past 2000Mhz can still hold that 2000Mhz at 1v...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayzy*
> 
> Well, it's good to know. I actually agree - this card is fully extracted by GIGABYTE.
> 
> *But*, reading here that some cards might be faulty makes me wonder if my card is faulty too.
> Yourself you wrote that yours is non-extreme version goes to 2088Mhz, while mine is but cannot go higher than 2050.


mine is hella golden though. it can hit 2114, but not real stable. look at this here-

I know this is not enough data to reach any solid conclusions but here are the results of the ingame benchmark from Ghost Recon Wildlands (1440p Ultra preset) in all bins from 2000-2100. Unfortunatelly, I don't have a lot of free time but this benchmark is really short so the whole thing took like 15 minutes smile.gif.
2000 --- 61.63 Avg FPS
2012 --- 61.90 (+0.44%)
2025 --- 62.14 (+0.38%)
2038 --- 62.43 (+0.47%)
2050 --- 62.56 (+0.21%)
2063 --- 62.84 (+0.45%)
2076 --- 63.11 (+0.43%)
2088 --- 63.50 (+0.62%)
2100 --- 64.51 (+1.6%)

2000 and 2100 are the same, seriously, nothing to fret about.


----------



## Rayzy

I see. congraz on that









But does my card is one of the faulty ones? if it is, I'll RMA it. how do I make sure?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Does it run stable in gaming and OC mode without you playing with any values?

If yes, your card is fine and there is no base for an RMA.
If not, the card doesn't meet it's advertised specs and is faulty.


----------



## Rayzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Does it run stable in gaming and OC mode without you playing with any values?
> 
> If yes, your card is fine and there is no base for an RMA.
> If not, the card doesn't meet it's advertised specs and is faulty.


Well, it does run fine on OC mode. so I guess it's fine. thanks








Just how people reach 2100+ in here?


----------



## FMXP

Hi guys, add me to the list of people who got a bad Extreme. Mine pretty much can't run more than 10 seconds in Overclock mode before it crashes to desktop. When I lower the clock speed it can work okay and finish benchmarks. This one was an early batch Newegg card, so it's probably one of the ones which was mixed up Regular vs. Extreme. I have verified the Power Limit is 125% on it with MSI Afterburner so it has a Regular BIOS and not an Extreme one out of the box. These are not cheap video cards and Gigabyte should not be screwing things up like this. I'm sorry I didn't just wait for the Strix to become available and got that one instead. This one is going back to Newegg, I'm praying that they will be OOS on Extreme when my RMA is received and they refund me instead of sending me another one so I can just buy the Strix.


----------



## Firk

Could anyone share a good gradual fan curve for the Gigabyte Aorus? The fan stop makes the card run at 45-50C with some browsing. Whenever I begin a game it can then rise into the 80's. I believe the GPU which is running at 70+ on some games is affecting my Motherboard temperatures due to the auto fan setup and my recent changes to the case airflow to drastically lower CPU temperatures.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayzy*
> 
> Well, it does run fine on OC mode. so I guess it's fine. thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just how people reach 2100+ in here?


Through a combination of luck in the silicon lottery (very good GPU's that handle more than OC mode) AND dedication and time in finding out much much their GPU can take.


----------



## Rayzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Through a combination of luck in the silicon lottery (very good GPU's that handle more than OC mode) AND dedication and time in finding out much much their GPU can take.


So guess I wasn't so lucky...








I can't even crank more the boost via the AORUS software.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayzy*
> 
> So guess I wasn't so lucky...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't even crank more the boost via the AORUS software.


Yes, but you have to remember you are getting a card heavily overclocked out of the box. Since you are boosting past 2Ghz, I would be happy with the card!









I think in general a lot of people are having unrealistic expectations from this card and expect them to overclock past 2Ghz and beyond. Only expectations that people should have is that it is stable using Gigabyte's presets.


----------



## TheNoseKnows

80F is 27C...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> rumor is they mixed up the regular and extreme chips post binning and a bunch of regular aorus went out as extremes, and extremes as regulars. Something about the first lot and they were trying to correct it. they supposedly had to retest all the extremes, and make a new bios. remember the last minute 1 week delay? yeah... the rumor says that's why the last minute low power bios wa developed to begin with and why extremes are f4 (worse) and regulars are f3(better). makes sense, actually. my regular is a 2088+ card on air.... that shouldnt happen.


What's your BIOS version number in GPU-Z?


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Already a few years ago, i switched to Gelid GC-Extreme as my go to TIM, but the
> Kryonaut paste from Grizzly is even better than that.
> 
> It will (of course dependant on the Setup, OC, cooling fans etc.) give you a decrease
> in temperaturs of somewhere between 1-3°C compared to Gelid and an impressive
> decrease of 6-8°C compared to Arctic Silver 5.


Nice to know, appreciate some insight into this. Gonna have to pick me up a vile or two of these and check em out. They seem to have very different texture and consistency compared to the AS5 compound.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yes, but you have to remember you are getting a card heavily overclocked out of the box. Since you are boosting past 2Ghz, I would be happy with the card!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I think in general a lot of people are having unrealistic expectations from this card and expect them to overclock past 2Ghz and beyond.* Only expectations that people should have is that it is stable using Gigabyte's presets.


EXACTLY! I don't get why people whining about it anything in the 1900Mhz range stable is decent. GPU Boost already does all the OC'ing for you. We are talking about a 1569 base clock card. I got lucky that mine boosts to 2000-2037MHz with +40 core +400 mem and +125% power. To be honest I would't mind if it boosted less, what's amazing about this card how silent it is even at fans around 80% my case fans a still slightly louder than my card. To me that's a win, all this performance on cool temps and low sound.


----------



## orion933

Hello!

I clocked my memory to +300 in afterburner and everything run great but the more I'm upping the clock the less score i have








I tried firestrike ultra/ heaven and superpotition4k same results
is that a normal thing?


----------



## Douse

Yeah it is normal. Something to do with gddr5x:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/4mm5zt/for_those_overclocking_1080_memory_please_read/%5B/URL

To be honest I would't mind if it boosted less, what's amazing about this card how silent it is even at fans around 80% my case fans a still slightly louder than my card. To me that's a win, all this performance on cool temps and low sound.[/QUOTE]

Yep, I got lucky as well but would have been happy with high 19xx. And agreed, the lower temps and lower db levels are awesome.


----------



## orion933

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah it is normal. Something to do with gddr5x:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/4mm5zt/for_those_overclocking_1080_memory_please_read/
> 
> Gotta find that sweet spot


Ho i didn't know that !
so the more increase doesnt mean the better?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Man I'm getting antsy about this block that is set to release early this month. I can't wait to put this thing underwater and finally be able to put my side panel back on! This card was so big that I had to unscrew my reservoir and pump mounts to get it to fit. My OCD does not like that. The second the block and backplate is released I'm ordering through the EK website with the $50 urgent UPS shipping haha. Here she is as she stands. 1020mm of rad space all cooling the CPU haha


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> Ho i didn't know that !
> so the more increase doesnt mean the better?


Yeah pretty much. Just adjust it and watch your fps/score
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Man I'm getting antsy about this block that is set to release early this month. I can't wait to put this thing underwater and finally be able to put my side panel back on! This card was so big that I had to unscrew my reservoir and pump mounts to get it to fit. My OCD does not like that. The second the block and backplate is released I'm ordering through the EK website with the $50 urgent UPS shipping haha. Here she is as she stands. 1020mm of rad space all cooling the CPU haha


Nice man, looking forward to seeing your results. Had the same issue with my one. Had to adjust the positioning of my reservoir because the card wouldn't fit. Now it is on the piss and hurting my OCD









Check out my little GPU prop (made from retic piping







). Had immediate droop when I installed it but that thing is solid as now. Doesn't move at all


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNoseKnows*
> 
> 80F is 27C...
> What's your BIOS version number in GPU-Z?


it says 86.02.39.00.57
It's the F3 Bios

Edit: that's the F4


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firk*
> 
> Could anyone share a good gradual fan curve for the Gigabyte Aorus? The fan stop makes the card run at 45-50C with some browsing. Whenever I begin a game it can then rise into the 80's. I believe the GPU which is running at 70+ on some games is affecting my Motherboard temperatures due to the auto fan setup and my recent changes to the case airflow to drastically lower CPU temperatures.


i got you bro. this keeps you at 37c and still lets it go silent, also keeps temps low at load.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> it says 86.02.39.00.57
> It's the F3 Bios


Isn't F3: 86.02.39.00.50

Thought .57 was the F4 Beta


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayzy*
> 
> So guess I wasn't so lucky...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't even crank more the boost via the AORUS software.


no, man, you have put in the time. you arent even on MSI afterburner. Have you watched Kedarwolf's curve video? Have you repasted you card? no way to see 2100 just by loading up Aorus software and punching in two numbers. takes a lot more work than that. I'd start by reading this thread.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Isn't F3: 86.02.39.00.50
> 
> Thought .57 was the F4 Beta


Edit: Google confirms that 's the F4, yet I only have 125% on my slider. i dont get it, either, as i dont power limit until 375w, either. im confused now.

as you can see When I hit power limit it is over 370w. idk, but i aint changed nothin lol. working too well to mess with it.


----------



## Douse

Yeah not sure either. That's weird!

For sure, don't touch a thing


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah not sure either. That's weird!
> 
> For sure, don't touch a thing


ikr


----------



## Rayzy

Slackaveli, thank you









I'm having the .57 too. is it the good BIOS or bad BIOS?


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayzy*
> 
> Slackaveli, thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm having the .57 too. is it the good BIOS or bad BIOS?


Technically, that is the F4 Beta BIOS. It is a little less aggressive than the F3 BIOS. If you are getting instability adjusting the power limit in your cards current state, I would not put the F3 BIOS on.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Edit: Google confirms that 's the F4, yet I only have 125% on my slider. i dont get it, either, as i dont power limit until 375w, either. im confused now.
> 
> as you can see When I hit power limit it is over 370w. idk, but i aint changed nothin lol. working too well to mess with it.


You should dump that BIOS here. That's very interesting.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> You should dump that BIOS here. That's very interesting.


crazy huh? tell me how.


----------



## Douse

Funnily enough I saw something interesting yesterday when gaming. I have the F3 on mine which should throttle at 125%. MSI Afterburner recorded a spike to 138%! Granted, it was just a spike..but still!


----------



## Rayzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yes, but you have to remember you are getting a card heavily overclocked out of the box. Since you are boosting past 2Ghz, I would be happy with the card!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think in general a lot of people are having unrealistic expectations from this card and expect them to overclock past 2Ghz and beyond. Only expectations that people should have is that it is stable using Gigabyte's presets.


Ya, you're right... but you know how us overclockers, always looking beyond


----------



## bloodindark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Funnily enough I saw something interesting yesterday when gaming. I have the F3 on mine which should throttle at 125%. MSI Afterburner recorded a spike to 138%! Granted, it was just a spike..but still!


i had those spikes too , is it safe , or a reason to worry?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayzy*
> 
> Well, it does run fine on OC mode. so I guess it's fine. thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just how people reach 2100+ in here?


Either briefly or can only be sustained in specific scenarios. There are a handful of golden ASICs around that can do it for longer than most but I'm always skeptical because stability means something very different to everyone.

2100mhz on the 1080ti is the same as 1600mhz on the 980ti. Only the highest quality chips can reach it and even then, most can only sustain it for light loads or a benchmark run.

The more realistic overclock figure is 2000mhz, anything over is bonus.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Either briefly or can only be sustained in specific scenarios. There are a handful of golden ASICs around that can do it for longer than most but I'm always skeptical because stability means something very different to everyone.
> 
> 2100mhz on the 1080ti is the same as 1600mhz on the 980ti. Only the highest quality chips can reach it and even then, most can only sustain it for light loads or a benchmark run.
> 
> The more realistic overclock figure is 2000mhz, anything over is bonus.


Completely agree.

I would like to highlight to those who has issues with increasing power limit and thermal limit and crashing that the most likely reason is that you are using the Gigabyte Aorus Software. It does not necessarily mean your chip is ****. I moved to Afterburner after crashing with the Aorus software and it works perfectly with my max power limit and thermal limit now. But I run my fans at 100% when I max out the power limit and thermal limit as that is sure to heat up the card.

I am on F4 bios which I erroneously flashed thinking it was better before finding out about this thread online but I did not bother to flash back to F3. I can run 125% power limit and 87 degrees thermal limit with my Slack's fan profile and it is tremendously stable in games. I played Battlefront 3 hours straight and absolutely no crashes and I consistently boost > 2,000 Mhz with peak boost at 2,037.5 Mhz.

I urge everyone who has issues to switch to Afterburner as the Aorus Engine software is absolute crap. And it takes up so much CPU usage that that itself could be the cause of crashes.

Cheers!


----------



## dude0014

Regarding the F3 vs F4 bios discrepency. It seems that .57 at the end is for the regular Aorus F3 bios, .50 at the end for extreme Aorus F3 bios. Even the F4 bios has different end values

Regular:



Extreme:



Power EDIT: Maybe..just maybe, if the Aorus Extreme owners would flash the F3 bios of the regular Aorus (with .57 end), it may result in clocks similar to us (arguably superior) regular Aorus owners. Anyone willing to do the deed?


----------



## TheNoseKnows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> it says 86.02.39.00.57
> It's the F3 Bios
> 
> Edit: that's the F4


Thanks for the info. By the way, according to Gigabyte's website, it is the F3 BIOS: http://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD#support-dl


----------



## Firk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i got you bro. this keeps you at 37c and still lets it go silent, also keeps temps low at load.


Thanks for this. Great for idle but do you have a less aggressive one for games? Fans become way too loud in game in a silent case. Using MSI Afterburner and applied the +25 core clock (OC Mode) scared to increase it above the Gigabyte Aorus set ones lol. So power limit, memory clock are defaults.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Regarding the F3 vs F4 bios discrepency. It seems that .57 at the end is for the regular Aorus F3 bios, .50 at the end for extreme Aorus F3 bios. Even the F4 bios has different end values
> 
> Regular:
> 
> 
> 
> Extreme:
> 
> 
> 
> Power EDIT: Maybe..just maybe, if the Aorus Extreme owners would flash the F3 bios of the regular Aorus (with .57 end), it may result in clocks similar to us (arguably superior) regular Aorus owners. Anyone willing to do the deed?


The flash tool doesn't let you.


----------



## QuietKungFu

Don't know if it was mentioned here yet, but the Aorus Graphic Engine tool has been updated. It looks like they have changed the clock settings for at least the OC mode. Not sure if any other changes were made. The LED settings option still don't show up for me. It appears they conflict with the CAM software for my NZXT cooler.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> crazy huh? tell me how.


Actually, I just looked and I think we have the same BIOS. 86.02.39.00.57. I have the 125% slider. Didn't we both get our cards around the same time right at release? We also have similar performance. Is that the BIOS number that you have? BTW if you need to dump a BIOS (I always make a backup of mine) you go into GPU-Z and then next to your BIOS version. There will be a little arrow next to it. Click that to dump the BIOS. Your screen will flicker which is completely normal.


----------



## P3PoX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuietKungFu*
> 
> Don't know if it was mentioned here yet, but the Aorus Graphic Engine tool has been updated. It looks like they have changed the clock settings for at least the OC mode. Not sure if any other changes were made. The LED settings option still don't show up for me. It appears they conflict with the CAM software for my NZXT cooler.


What version of Aorus do you have? How did they change clock settings in OC mode?


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuietKungFu*
> 
> the Aorus Graphic Engine tool has been updated.




Can't even get the damn thing to find updates. Fails all the time. I'm guessing you downloaded it from the Asus website? None of the update options work for me in their CP app.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Completely agree.
> 
> I would like to highlight to those who has issues with increasing power limit and thermal limit and crashing that the most likely reason is that you are using the Gigabyte Aorus Software. It does not necessarily mean your chip is ****. I moved to Afterburner after crashing with the Aorus software and it works perfectly with my max power limit and thermal limit now. But I run my fans at 100% when I max out the power limit and thermal limit as that is sure to heat up the card.
> 
> I am on F4 bios which I erroneously flashed thinking it was better before finding out about this thread online but I did not bother to flash back to F3. I can run 125% power limit and 87 degrees thermal limit with my Slack's fan profile and it is tremendously stable in games. I played Battlefront 3 hours straight and absolutely no crashes and I consistently boost > 2,000 Mhz with peak boost at 2,037.5 Mhz.
> 
> I urge everyone who has issues to switch to Afterburner as the Aorus Engine software is absolute crap. And it takes up so much CPU usage that that itself could be the cause of crashes.
> 
> Cheers!


im glad it worked out for you. i do like my fan profile. 37c idle at Fanstop, and powers up before each temp that triggers a bin drop. Best I can come up with.


----------



## P3PoX

This autoupdate never worked for me. Just uninstall it, download and install 1.06 from gigabyte website. I sent back my Xtreme version yesterday since it was unstable in OC mode...I never tried 1.06. I wonder if new version fixed unstability in OC mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> 
> 
> Can't even get the damn thing to find updates. Fails all the time. I'm guessing you downloaded it from the Asus website? None of the update options work for me in their CP app.


This autoupdate never worked for me. Just uninstall it, download and install 1.06 from gigabyte website. I sent back my Xtreme version yesterday since it was unstable in OC mode...I never tried 1.06. I wonder if new version fixed unstability in OC mode.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Regarding the F3 vs F4 bios discrepency. It seems that .57 at the end is for the regular Aorus F3 bios, .50 at the end for extreme Aorus F3 bios. Even the F4 bios has different end values
> 
> Regular:
> 
> 
> 
> Extreme:
> 
> 
> 
> Power EDIT: Maybe..just maybe, if the Aorus Extreme owners would flash the F3 bios of the regular Aorus (with .57 end), it may result in clocks similar to us (arguably superior) regular Aorus owners. Anyone willing to do the deed?


THAT makes so much more sense!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNoseKnows*
> 
> Thanks for the info. By the way, according to Gigabyte's website, it is the F3 BIOS: http://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD#support-dl


Google lied to me. I was beginning to think that I had lost my mind.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firk*
> 
> Thanks for this. Great for idle but do you have a less aggressive one for games? Fans become way too loud in game in a silent case. Using MSI Afterburner and applied the +25 core clock (OC Mode) scared to increase it above the Gigabyte Aorus set ones lol. So power limit, memory clock are defaults.


try just topping it off at 80%. I will say, though, that I found the difference in performance for 80% fans to 100% fans to be far more of an improvemnet than you'd expect for 20% fan increase. It hits some sort of a sweet spot of cooling ability there. Since my case isnt silent, (I use noctua F-12 industrials on custom curves) , 100% almost perfectly matches my noctua's at 1500Mhz. And when my cpu gets over about 60c the noctua's kick up to over 2000 and are louder. It only happens in burntests (thank god), but when those noctua's kick up to 3000Mhz (at 79c on cpu) they sound like a ps4 with the fan glitch lol.

I would recommend upping the power slider to max, that wont hurt you at all, it doesnt mean , like, "full power", it just lets the card stretch it's legs as needed, totally safe at 125%. then, on memory, unless you see some crazy artifacting (you'll know it if you see it, trust me), you can easily hold about +180 on them in afterburner settings, and that gets you over the 500Gb bandwidth mark, so it should be well fed at that #.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Actually, I just looked and I think we have the same BIOS. 86.02.39.00.57. I have the 125% slider. Didn't we both get our cards around the same time right at release? We also have similar performance. Is that the BIOS number that you have? BTW if you need to dump a BIOS (I always make a backup of mine) you go into GPU-Z and then next to your BIOS version. There will be a little arrow next to it. Click that to dump the BIOS. Your screen will flicker which is completely normal.


yeah, i had "known" all this time I had f3 bios, up until i copy/pasted that very number into google and it said F4 bios :/, weirdo google.

Yeah, I ordered mine from Newegg on release day at about 10am Central standard time that morning, and as I recall you did the same. Neither of us woke up expecting it to be in stock lol. We got gooduns.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P3PoX*
> 
> This autoupdate never worked for me. Just uninstall it, download and install 1.06 from gigabyte website. I sent back my Xtreme version yesterday since it was unstable in OC mode...I never tried 1.06. I wonder if new version fixed unstability in OC mode.
> This autoupdate never worked for me. Just uninstall it, download and install 1.06 from gigabyte website. I sent back my Xtreme version yesterday since it was unstable in OC mode...I never tried 1.06. I wonder if new version fixed unstability in OC mode.


hmmm. did you ever just try MSI afterburner? most of us with the gold cards were unstable at 2000 in Aorus software, but can hit 2076/2088/2101/2114 in Msi.


----------



## P3PoX

I tried Msi afterburner, same result. Anything above +16mhz on core was crash.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P3PoX*
> 
> I tried Msi afterburner, same result. Anything above +16mhz on core was crash.


well, you did your due diligence. Should be due to pull a good one this time. I bet they got their crap together over there by now.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Yeah, I ordered mine from Newegg on release day at about 10am Central standard time that morning, and as I recall you did the same. Neither of us woke up expecting it to be in stock lol. We got gooduns.


Haha yep so we did order at the same exact time. My cards a great undervolter. I've been running a daily 1.00v/2050 with no errors in GPU-Z. The strange thing is that I need to lock it. When it's unlocked it will jumps up to 1.012v and after a little bit it jumps up to 1.05v and GPU-Z shows vRel and Vop the entire time. The card truly has a mind of it's own. So I just lock it and if I'm not gaming I'll change the MSI AB profile to an unlocked one so it can downclock.


----------



## Qba73

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Regarding the F3 vs F4 bios discrepency. It seems that .57 at the end is for the regular Aorus F3 bios, .50 at the end for extreme Aorus F3 bios. Even the F4 bios has different end values
> 
> Regular:
> 
> 
> 
> Extreme:
> 
> 
> 
> Power EDIT: Maybe..just maybe, if the Aorus Extreme owners would flash the F3 bios of the regular Aorus (with .57 end), it may result in clocks similar to us (arguably superior) regular Aorus owners. Anyone willing to do the deed?


the f4 beta for the xtreme also ended in 57 (i know I had it before f4 final)

f4 final for xtreme is 9E

someone at gigabyte has a [email protected] up sense of numbering.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> the f4 beta for the xtreme also ended in 57 (i know I had it before f4 final)
> 
> f4 final for xtreme is 9E
> 
> someone at gigabyte has a [email protected] up sense of numbering.


THAT is what happened. when i googled JUST the number c/p from bios, it showed me the og bios from release day that was the old f4 extreme bios.


----------



## Benny89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Another case just adding to the trend of faulty Extreme cards...
> 
> People have suggested bad pascal chips in the card. But I doubt that so many Extreme editions have bad GPU's. It's likely a fault with the bios, or something in the card design itself. I saw a teardown video for the Aorus 1080 Ti (regular) which showed missing components, here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe these components or something else added to the Extreme version is causing issues?


I thought the same, but he would definitely mention if his card was not working. Since it was working no problem, I guess it wasn't those missing parts problem.

Also, seems like it is Xtreme problem only? Regular Aorus does not seem to have working on stock settings problem.

At least mine was Xtreme and it didn't work in any game at all.


----------



## Qba73

on a side note I found the f4 final for xtreme very unstable, weird freeze up on browser and first ever LBSOD, and driver installation fail.

back to f4beta and all is well again.


----------



## QuietKungFu

Yeah, I downloaded the Graphic Engine 1.06 direct from the gigabyte website. The update function in the software seems to be slow on getting update notifcations pushed to it.. I have a non-Xtreme card and although I use Afterburner to set my fan curve and speeds, I still have to use the Graphic Engine software if I want to try to change the RGB settings. It still seems to conflict with the CAM software.

I noticed 1.06 has changed some of the presets. The memory clocks are the same, but the Boost clock for OC Mode dropped from 1708 to 1695, Gaming Mode stayed the same at 1683, and Silent Mode got increased from 1582 to 1632. Strange that the top end got lowered but the low end got increased. I also noted that in the firmware update section, it now tells you if you are running the F3 or F4 Bios. It appears the devs are trying, but it's still a disappointing piece of software.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuietKungFu*
> 
> Yeah, I downloaded the Graphic Engine 1.06 direct from the gigabyte website. The update function in the software seems to be slow on getting update notifcations pushed to it.. I have a non-Xtreme card and although I use Afterburner to set my fan curve and speeds, I still have to use the Graphic Engine software if I want to try to change the RGB settings. It still seems to conflict with the CAM software.
> 
> I noticed 1.06 has changed some of the presets. The memory clocks are the same, but the Boost clock for OC Mode dropped from 1708 to 1695, Gaming Mode stayed the same at 1683, and Silent Mode got increased from 1582 to 1632. Strange that the top end got lowered but the low end got increased. I also noted that in the firmware update section, it now tells you if you are running the F3 or F4 Bios. It appears the devs are trying, but it's still a disappointing piece of software.


so, everywhere that advertises the 1632 clocks on EXT are lying now?...

new egg has em in stock, same number as before...


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qba73*
> 
> on a side note I found the f4 final for xtreme very unstable, weird freeze up on browser and first ever LBSOD, and driver installation fail.
> 
> back to f4beta and all is well again.


That is very weird. I am running F4 on my Extreme and I have had no issues at all. Infact, very stable so far other than the lower base TDP.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> That is very weird. I am running F4 on my Extreme and I have had no issues at all. Infact, very stable so far other than the lower base TDP.


he was lucky, old was stable for him. noobs out there are complaining they are "stuck" with the new bios. as in, they lock it through their software. you could of course do it the old fashioned way still.

i think the biggest key with these is just accept the default LEDs situation and uninstall Aorus software. since I did that, ive been golden.


----------



## Savatage79

Before my Aorus goes back, any last ideas for my gpu? I upgraded bios to new f3, and my games hold 60 frames but it just stutters, my Temps and clock numbers are solid but I can't remove occasional stutters. It's also when you move the cam in most games while moving.

Could a psu that's older possibly not be issuing enough power?


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> he was lucky, old was stable for him. noobs out there are complaining they are "stuck" with the new bios. as in, they lock it through their software. you could of course do it the old fashioned way still.
> 
> i think the biggest key with these is just accept the default LEDs situation and uninstall Aorus software. since I did that, ive been golden.


Completely agree. I dumped the Aorus Software the moment I stumbled on this thread and things has been really awesome since.

I could run max power limit and thermal limit with no crashes and I even used your fan profile. It was then I realized that I could sustain consistent > 2,000Mhz boost with peak of 2,037.5Mhz with default core/mem. I can only increase my core/mem to 22Mhz/200Mhz respectively for benchmarks and that would have me sitting on 2,050 Mhz with NO voltage. Like the others, I almost wanted to dump this card but I realized I am actually luckier than most to have such clocks. And with absolutely no voltage. I have not even unlocked the voltage function in Afterburner lol!

I strongly recommend what Slack also preaches. Don't touch your voltage until you are able to have stable clocks. Everything is a step by step thing with Pascal and GPU Boost. It is not just not punching numbers and hoping for the moon. It is a PROCESS.

So before anyone changes or RMA your cards, try changing to Afterburner and UNINSTALL the goddamn Aorus Software as it is very buggy and takes up alot of CPU. One other thing is the OC preset in the software, is simply a predetermined clock/mem setting which you can manually set in Afterburner anyway. I would much rather you find the max limit for your card manually save that preset for Benchmarks and another preset halving those max core/mem for gaming. That will be as stable as you are ever going to get.

Slack, you know your ****.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Before my Aorus goes back, any last ideas for my gpu? I upgraded bios to new f3, and my games hold 60 frames but it just stutters, my Temps and clock numbers are solid but I can't remove occasional stutters. It's also when you move the cam in most games while moving.
> 
> Could a psu that's older possibly not be issuing enough power?


If you are using the Aorus software, try to exit the software or kill it off from Task Manager and run your game again.
If it does not stutter, it is the Aorus software. Why I say so is because I myself has stutters and realised the dumb Aorus Engine Software was hogging 20% of my CPU consistently during games and even in Windows slowing down almost everything. Try that, better still UNINSTALL the Aorus Software and review your games and see if they stutter.

Also make sure that your Power Management in Nvidia Control Panel is set to either Optimal or Adaptive.

One other thing I noticed is that with Creators Update, the gaming mode is a hit or miss for some games. So try switching that off in the control panel and see how it goes. My games ran generally better with it OFF.

That is all I can think of based on my experience.


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> If you are using the
> If you are using the Aorus software, try to exit the software or kill it off from Task Manager and run your game again.
> If it does not stutter, it is the Aorus software. Why I say so is because I myself has stutters and realised the dumb Aorus Engine Software was hogging 20% of my CPU consistently during games and even in Windows slowing down almost everything. Try that, better still UNINSTALL the Aorus Software and review your games and see if they stutter.
> 
> Also make sure that your Power Management in Nvidia Control Panel is set to either Optimal or Adaptive.
> 
> One other thing I noticed is that with Creators Update, the gaming mode is a hit or miss for some games. So try switching that off in the control panel and see how it goes. My games ran generally better with it OFF.
> 
> That is all I can think of based on my experience.


Well aorus engine is indeed Uninstalled, I've had that out for awhile now. I've just tried numerous things and there's just something amiss.. I don't even have the creator update so it's not that, I have clean wiped my driver's and tried that and same deal.

Only thing I don't have is power set to optimal or adaptive, I always thought Max performance was the one. What makes you suggest optimal or adaptive?


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Well aorus engine is indeed Uninstalled, I've had that out for awhile now. I've just tried numerous things and there's just something amiss.. I don't even have the creator update so it's not that, I have clean wiped my driver's and tried that and same deal.
> 
> Only thing I don't have is power set to optimal or adaptive, I always thought Max performance was the one. What makes you suggest optimal or adaptive?


I usually leave it on default and am just trying to see if you have yours on default. Why don't you just try that and see if it works? if it does not, then I would agree your card is faulty or some sort.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Completely agree. I dumped the Aorus Software the moment I stumbled on this thread and things has been really awesome since.
> 
> I could run max power limit and thermal limit with no crashes and I even used your fan profile. It was then I realized that I could sustain consistent > 2,000Mhz boost with peak of 2,037.5Mhz with default core/mem. I can only increase my core/mem to 22Mhz/200Mhz respectively for benchmarks and that would have me sitting on 2,050 Mhz with NO voltage. Like the others, I almost wanted to dump this card but I realized I am actually luckier than most to have such clocks. And with absolutely no voltage. I have not even unlocked the voltage function in Afterburner lol!
> 
> I strongly recommend what Slack also preaches. Don't touch your voltage until you are able to have stable clocks. Everything is a step by step thing with Pascal and GPU Boost. It is not just not punching numbers and hoping for the moon. It is a PROCESS.
> 
> So before anyone changes or RMA your cards, try changing to Afterburner and UNINSTALL the goddamn Aorus Software as it is very buggy and takes up alot of CPU. One other thing is the OC preset in the software, is simply a predetermined clock/mem setting which you can manually set in Afterburner anyway. I would much rather you find the max limit for your card manually save that preset for Benchmarks and another preset halving those max core/mem for gaming. That will be as stable as you are ever going to get.
> 
> Slack, you know your ****.


thanks, man. i totally agree, you have been a fine pupil, A+ lol!

I do the same with 2 settings. My rock solid nasty settings, and my solid but high watt benching settings, which does occasionally crash after long gaming sessions. it isnt worth the extra 1 fps in just gaming. i like that 2076 at 1.04v, evrybody will have a sweet spot that just makes the most sense in a balance of perf but not crazy watts. like on a cpu, your max OC usually takes much more voltage that the usual between freq bumps, aka the wall. Gpu's have this , too, it's just harder to find that sweet spot. WORTH it when you do.

your car looks sick, man.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Well aorus engine is indeed Uninstalled, I've had that out for awhile now. I've just tried numerous things and there's just something amiss.. I don't even have the creator update so it's not that, I have clean wiped my driver's and tried that and same deal.
> 
> Only thing I don't have is power set to optimal or adaptive, I always thought Max performance was the one. What makes you suggest optimal or adaptive?


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> your car looks sick, man.


Oh that isn't mine. Was a McLaren 650s event at a track where I raped the car. Stock voltage, timings and power limit. ?


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Stock voltage, timings and power limit. ?


We still talking about the McLaren??









My paste arrived today so I might repaste tonight. Want to be thorough in my recording of the before and after temps so I can do a good comparison. Will be interesting since mine runs quite cool already...


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Well aorus engine is indeed Uninstalled, I've had that out for awhile now. I've just tried numerous things and there's just something amiss.. I don't even have the creator update so it's not that, I have clean wiped my driver's and tried that and same deal.
> 
> Only thing I don't have is power set to optimal or adaptive, I always thought Max performance was the one. What makes you suggest optimal or adaptive?


i wish i could rule out your psu. go to Best Buy/whatever your local store is that will take a return and give a new psu a test. Not that I wouldnt maybe have already rma'd as i would be freaking out. it is a quick fix to check , tho,. if you rma and have the same problem, then what, right? It could be your gpu, but microstuttering /stuttering on a single gpu is usually something else in my experiences. certainly not a huge margin more than it being a faulty gpu, but a majority id say.

edit: you positive you arent cpu bound? i dont remember your cpu.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Oh that isn't mine. Was a McLaren 650s event at a track where I raped the car. Stock voltage, timings and power limit. ?


still a sick moment in time!


----------



## Slackaveli

..


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> We still talking about the McLaren??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My paste arrived today so I might repaste tonight. Want to be thorough in my recording of the before and after temps so I can do a good comparison. Will be interesting since mine runs quite cool already...


Haha can't wait for your results. Mine also runs around low 60s. I got some Fujipoly Extreme pads at 1mm but I'm not sure if it will have good contact. Or if I should have gone for 1.5mm. I guess I'll try but someone else confirmed it is 1mm for the VRAM pads. Now just gotta wait for my paste and pads to arrive.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Haha can't wait for your results. Mine also runs around low 60s. I got some Fujipoly Extreme pads at 1mm but I'm not sure if it will have good contact. Or if I should have gone for 1.5mm. I guess I'll try but someone else confirmed it is 1mm for the VRAM pads. Now just gotta wait for my paste and pads to arrive.


it's 1mm, but if 1.5 and slightly smushed, it's better contact.


----------



## Douse

Yeah mines either 1mm or 1.5mm. Not sure, bought it a long time ago. I am sure it will be fine. The heat sink contact to the VRAM should be pretty solid....


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> it's 1mm, but if 1.5 and slightly smushed, it's better contact.


Yeah have to see how that one goes but understand the Fujipoly Ultra Extreme is quite rigid materially so I went with the 1mm as I didn't wanna compromise the contact should it be not the squishy type. I know it's just 0.05mm but let's see.


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i wish i could rule out your psu. go to Best Buy/whatever your local store is that will take a return and give a new psu a test. Not that I wouldnt maybe have already rma'd as i would be freaking out. it is a quick fix to check , tho,. if you rma and have the same problem, then what, right? It could be your gpu, but microstuttering /stuttering on a single gpu is usually something else in my experiences. certainly not a huge margin more than it being a faulty gpu, but a majority id say.
> 
> edit: you positive you arent cpu bound? i dont remember your cpu.
> still a sick moment in time!


Nah I doubt it's my cpu, it's a 4770 and I don't see that the issue personally. I actually would of RMAd it back by now but what held me up was tryin to get it to work better and also because I didn't want to be totally without a gpu, and with having an ftw3 on order I simply wanted to get that card and then ship the Aorus back. But the ftw3 was pushed back so It's put me behind.

Basically what I'm doing is once I get my evga I can further gage and try more things, like psu. If the evga stutters the same then most likely my next step is psu.

I'm just really bugged as I hate playing musical gpus, I just want to get back to some sweet Pc gaming right now.

The good thing is I convinced Newegg to refund me, so I will have more options and not be tied to the Aorus with Newegg.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Yeah have to see how that one goes but understand the Fujipoly Ultra Extreme is quite rigid materially so I went with the 1mm as I didn't wanna compromise the contact should it be not the squishy type. I know it's just 0.05mm but let's see.


your thinking was sound. it's not like the old putty. but, like you said, .5mm is a small amount. should work.[


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Nah I doubt it's my cpu, it's a 4770 and I don't see that the issue personally. I actually would of RMAd it back by now but what held me up was tryin to get it to work better and also because I didn't want to be totally without a gpu, and with having an ftw3 on order I simply wanted to get that card and then ship the Aorus back. But the ftw3 was pushed back so It's put me behind.
> 
> Basically what I'm doing is once I get my evga I can further gage and try more things, like psu. If the evga stutters the same then most likely my next step is psu.
> 
> I'm just really bugged as I hate playing musical gpus, I just want to get back to some sweet Pc gaming right now.
> 
> The good thing is I convinced Newegg to refund me, so I will have more options and not be tied to the Aorus with Newegg.


yeah, you are straight now. that is something else, getting a refund from newegg on a gpu now-a-days. Aorus must be re-imbursing due to the problems to those who insist.


----------



## TheParisHeaton

I I took my card 2 days ago. The sound he makes is terrible. Listen to over two rooms and 1400 rpm fans. It's going on in every load. Upscaling film, folding, gaming /full range fps/.

I tried uploading it with iPhone, but it's only a little bit different from reality. I think i send it back her in the near future and take something else.


----------



## Douse

Nasty. yeah I would be returning that. Extreme or Regular?


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheParisHeaton*
> 
> I I took my card 2 days ago. The sound he makes is terrible. Listen to over two rooms and 1400 rpm fans. It's going on in every load. Upscaling film, folding, gaming /full range fps/.
> 
> I tried uploading it with iPhone, but it's only a little bit different from reality. I think i send it back her in the near future and take something else.


Yup something is up with the card. Sounds like a failed motor on the fans.


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Nasty. yeah I would be returning that. Extreme or Regular?


Its regular Aorus.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheParisHeaton*
> 
> I I took my card 2 days ago. The sound he makes is terrible. Listen to over two rooms and 1400 rpm fans. It's going on in every load. Upscaling film, folding, gaming /full range fps/.
> 
> I tried uploading it with iPhone, but it's only a little bit different from reality. I think i send it back her in the near future and take something else.


send that back!!! Tell them it crashes and sounds like it might blow up. the word is out from Giga to Newegg that they don't want to lose future aorus customers b/c of NEWEGG'S return policy. If you demand a refund, you'll get one. But, really, it isnt the brand that got you. It was just a bad card. There are something like 3% of gpu's that are just bad. take another shot at it. Sorry for the downtime, but, you are on downtime already with that autisticscreetcher card.


----------



## dude0014

So I went ahead and did this:



Result? A whooping....1 degree C temp reduction at full load









I currently have my fan profile set to Max out at 77%, its silent and max load temps are 61-62C after prolonged gaming. The real difference is seen by replacing the TIM, which in my case was CLU.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> So I went ahead and did this:
> 
> 
> 
> Result? A whooping....1 degree C temp reduction at full load
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I currently have my fan profile set to Max out at 77%, its silent and max load temps are 61-62C after prolonged gaming. The real difference is seen by replacing the TIM, which in my case was CLU.


that's a potentially a self-imposed perfcap, man. i know you dont WANT to see 100% fans, but, do me a favor. do the same tests at 100%. i bet you see a pretty massive difference. then, weigh the pro/cons. if 100% fans gives you 2 bins, then it is totally worth it in my eyes. 100% fans on Aorus = 57% fans on Nvidia's FE Db wise.

questions: did you use paste or a pad? dumb question, i know.
did you use pads under the backplate to connect with gpu backside better (because connection is pretty meh without that)? This one will give you ~8c-10c.

may not be worth it all, but, i see you tried this hard. getting to <58c is a bump. nothing huge, be we are freaks in here.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> that's a potentially a self-imposed perfcap, man. i know you dont WANT to see 100% fans, but, do me a favor. do the same tests at 100%. i bet you see a pretty massive difference. then, weigh the pro/cons. if 100% fans gives you 2 bins, then it is totally worth it in my eyes. 100% fans on Aorus = 57% fans on Nvidia's FE Db wise.
> 
> questions: did you use paste or a pad? dumb question, i know.
> did you use pads under the backplate to connect with gpu backside better (because connection is pretty meh without that)? This one will give you ~8c-10c.
> did you re-tim the gpu with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, or at least GeLid? this one will give you ~5c-7c.


Sorry I wasn't clear nor did I specify. I did the test with the AIO at 100% fan (on the Aorus 1080 Ti as well as the radiator fan). 77% fan is my daily silent running setup

-I used a pad between copper plate & AIO, this one, Its decent
-Pads under backplate in contact with GPU come with the card, I wouldn't want to replace those, backplate gets plenty hot, so they def work
-The TIM I used on the GPU was CLU (Coolaboratory liquid ultra), the only one I use on bare dies - liquid metal is superior to Kryonaut or Gelid

Edit: To add on, at 100% fan post TIM change, my max temps are around 54-55C - LINK to my review


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Sorry I wasn't clear nor did I specify. I did the test with the AIO at 100% fan (on the Aorus 1080 Ti as well as the radiator fan). 77% fan is my daily silent running setup
> 
> -I used a pad between copper plate & AIO, this one, Its decent
> -Pads under backplate in contact with GPU come with the card, I wouldn't want to replace those, backplate gets plenty hot, so they def work
> -The TIM I used on the GPU was CLU (Coolaboratory liquid ultra), the only one I use on bare dies - liquid metal is superior to Kryonaut or Gelid
> 
> Edit: To add on, at 100% fan post TIM change, my max temps are around 54-55C - LINK to my review


gotcha. you did good. i woould point out that adding an extra pad to the gpu backside between it and the copper on backplate, with a small square hole cut out in it did wonders for @Dasboogieman, i think; i'll dig and see if i can find a pic.

http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2a/900x900px-LL-2a92dbf3_IMG_20170417_150821.jpeg something like this. i think the other dude had a small square cut out in the middle.


----------



## dude0014

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> gotcha. you did good. i woould point out that adding an extra pad to the gpu backside between it and the copper on backplate, with a small square hole cut out in it did wonders for @Dasboogieman, i think; i'll dig and see if i can find a pic.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2a/900x900px-LL-2a92dbf3_IMG_20170417_150821.jpeg something like this. i think the other dude had a small square cut out in the middle.


Oh god. Why did you show me this. I can't even take the card apart now. That's the downside of CLU, once applied you leave it alone.

Best I can do now is give it another shot with gelid between the AIO and copper backplate. *sigh*


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Oh god. Why did you show me this. I can't even take the card apart now. That's the downside of CLU, once applied you leave it alone.
> 
> Best I can do now is give it another shot with gelid between the AIO and copper backplate. *sigh*


sorry man!! sure you cant remove just the backplate and copper 'shim' or whatever to get to gpu backside? i bet the paste works better if you go the route you mentioned, though, honestly. use a lot.


----------



## Migot

Hi t here,

Is is save to use aorus software and leave card in OC mode? Or should i OC manualy by msi afterburner and uninstall aoreus software?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> Hi t here,
> 
> Is is save to use aorus software and leave card in OC mode? Or should i OC manualy by msi afterburner and uninstall aoreus software?


You should just uninstall the Aorus software and install Afterburner. I'd download 4.4.0 beta 6. The link to it is: http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5412373&postcount=216

People have had much better luck with Afterburner. You can also do a voltage curve if you want. Just press ctrl+f. You can set core clocks for different voltages this way. You can also lock a bin with Ctrl+L. You can press Ctrl+D to set the voltage curve to default.


----------



## Migot

okey, and should i set fan control by myself? After playing witcher 3 idle temp is 50 C and fan i 0 rpm...


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> okey, and should i set fan control by myself? After playing witcher 3 idle temp is 50 C and fan i 0 rpm...


absolutely. 100% better. try this is you want best perf. That's the Waka Flocka. Because: "Zero to 100, real quick"


----------



## Migot

ok, Thanks. This is my result after firestrike, is it ok?

http://gpuz.techpowerup.com/17/05/05/q6a.png


----------



## Slackaveli

looks great!


----------



## Douse

Morning all! (Well, its morning here







)

So, last night I took the plunge and repasted my 1080ti Xtreme.

I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and applied via the spread method using the tool provided (As recommended by Grizzly).

Overall process was very simple, except for disconnecting the fan/led cables from the headers. Gone damn those bastards were stuck in hard. I had to use small needle nose pliers to unplug them









Unfortunately, the thermal pads for the VRAM are seriously thick&#8230;.I would say at least 2mm? My pads were not thick enough so I had to leave them and only paste the die.

Assembly was simple and total procedure took about 30 mins as I was taking my time. Probably one of the easier repastings I have done (compared to GPU's in laptops).

I did some before and after tests to give some idea of the improvements. Bear in mind that I already had a cool card so I wasnt expecting much. Load/heat tests were using my maximum clocks + voltage, 100% fan for consistency and 15 minute runs of Unigen Heaven. I would say ambient temp in the room actually increased as I was working etc in the room. Results are very satisfying









First, some pics of the pasting process. I used this video for reference: 





Lets do this!


Finally apart.


Thermal pads are too thin










Some crap (glue) on the surface of the chip that wouldnt come off. Pretty average manufacturing imo....Never seen that before.


Messy paste job







It actually is very thin but the picture makes it look quite thick. Any thinner and it would be missing on some parts.....I even thought I didnt put enough on...

So, the repaste was completed. My computer POSTED and I was ready to test!!!

This was a Unigen Heaven run for 15 minutes BEFORE the application of the Thermal Paste. As you can see my temps stabilised at 67c and I would say boost dropped off from 2101Mhz to 2076Mhz after about 5 minutes.


Same test, after the new paste. Temps now reached a max of 60c! Was hovering between 59c and 60c. I would say the boost to 2101Mhz lasted about 10 minutes before dopping to 2076Mhz. So held it for twice as long.


And now for some benchmarks. Performance was not greatly improved as I was already boosting to these clocks before. It can just sustain them for longer now.

This is my best score yet. @Slackaveli, no idea how you got to 10500. Maybe my CPU and RAM are holding my score back a a bit?



Prior to this I would never crack 10200 and would score between 10150 and 10190.

Overall I am very happy with the results. A 7 degree drop is definitely worth it.

Now to try and get it to sustain 2101Mhz and fix the 'Vrel' throttle that brings me down to 2076Mhz. Suggestions?

My curve already looks like this from defaults @ +100% voltage.


I will be putting a fan on to the back of the card to see if it will help the Vrel throttle.

Hope all this helps other people thinking of doing the same thing























EDIT: Just did a Timespy bench: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19752045 - Our graphic scores are very similar Slackaveli


----------



## Benny89

I will try to pull triger maybe once more on Xtreme.

Seems like great card when you get one that is working







. My first one was artifacting after 2 hours in benches and couldn't start any game because it crashed it immiedietly.

But I think Xtreme card plus Kraken G10 plus Grizzly Kryonaut pluis Corsair H90 could be INSANE!


----------



## QuietKungFu

Thanks for the awesome post! I've messed around with the Afterburner settings, and wanted to try using some Grizzly on it to lower the temps. I was just about to ask for any guides on application, and this post took care of that. Any tips on what to watch for when removing the cooler and taking the card apart?


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuietKungFu*
> 
> Thanks for the awesome post! I've messed around with the Afterburner settings, and wanted to try using some Grizzly on it to lower the temps. I was just about to ask for any guides on application, and this post took care of that. Any tips on what to watch for when removing the cooler and taking the card apart?


Thanks! Not really. You do have to kinda wiggle the pcb to get it to let go of the heatsink once you have undone all the screws. But that wasn't too hard. I guess just take it nice and easy and dont unnecessarily touch components unless you have a full anti-static setup going.

And yeah, getting those fan connectors off sucked







But they are pretty robust. Not like there are ribbon cables or anything that can easily break.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Morning all! (Well, its morning here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> So, last night I took the plunge and repasted my 1080ti Xtreme.
> 
> I used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and applied via the spread method using the tool provided (As recommended by Grizzly).
> 
> Overall process was very simple, except for disconnecting the fan/led cables from the headers. Gone damn those bastards were stuck in hard. I had to use small needle nose pliers to unplug them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, the thermal pads for the VRAM are seriously thick&#8230;.I would say at least 2mm? My pads were not thick enough so I had to leave them and only paste the die.
> 
> Assembly was simple and total procedure took about 30 mins as I was taking my time. Probably one of the easier repastings I have done (compared to GPU's in laptops).
> 
> I did some before and after tests to give some idea of the improvements. Bear in mind that I already had a cool card so I wasnt expecting much. Load/heat tests were using my maximum clocks + voltage, 100% fan for consistency and 15 minute runs of Unigen Heaven. I would say ambient temp in the room actually increased as I was working etc in the room. Results are very satisfying
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First, some pics of the pasting process. I used this video for reference:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets do this!
> 
> 
> Finally apart.
> 
> 
> Thermal pads are too thin
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Some crap (glue) on the surface of the chip that wouldnt come off. Pretty average manufacturing imo....Never seen that before.
> 
> 
> Messy paste job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It actually is very thin but the picture makes it look quite thick. Any thinner and it would be missing on some parts.....I even thought I didnt put enough on...
> 
> So, the repaste was completed. My computer POSTED and I was ready to test!!!
> 
> This was a Unigen Heaven run for 15 minutes BEFORE the application of the Thermal Paste. As you can see my temps stabilised at 67c and I would say boost dropped off from 2101Mhz to 2076Mhz after about 5 minutes.
> 
> 
> Same test, after the new paste. Temps now reached a max of 60c! Was hovering between 59c and 60c. I would say the boost to 2101Mhz lasted about 10 minutes before dopping to 2076Mhz. So held it for twice as long.
> 
> 
> And now for some benchmarks. Performance was not greatly improved as I was already boosting to these clocks before. It can just sustain them for longer now.
> 
> This is my best score yet. @Slackaveli, no idea how you got to 10500. Maybe my CPU and RAM are holding my score back a a bit?
> 
> 
> 
> Prior to this I would never crack 10200 and would score between 10150 and 10190.
> 
> Overall I am very happy with the results. A 7 degree drop is definitely worth it.
> 
> Now to try and get it to sustain 2101Mhz and fix the 'Vrel' throttle that brings me down to 2076Mhz. Suggestions?
> 
> My curve already looks like this from defaults @ +100% voltage.
> 
> 
> I will be putting a fan on to the back of the card to see if it will help the Vrel throttle.
> 
> Hope all this helps other people thinking of doing the same thing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Just did a Timespy bench: http://www.3dmark.com/3dm/19752045 - Our graphic scores are very similar Slackaveli


well, i did turn off vsync and AA in nvidia control panel and had "performance" settings in there (that's about 50 points; 100 points if you had g-sync on prior). But to break 10,500 i da to have my Broadwell clocked to max and it's uncore as high as i can get her, as that boosts my L4 cache up. I, honestly, could probably hit 10,750 if not for my underperforming vram :/ , i only get +440 max before i start artifacting. that is holding me back a bit. but definitely if going for top scores check those nvidia control panel settings.

And, yeah, I swear by Kryonaut!!

fan controllers are by far the hardest part of the job. If you absolutely have to, just having another person there to hold the cooler part allows it to be done w/o actually removing them if push comes to shove. Having some needle nose on hand just in case being a wise move, too.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> gotcha. you did good. i woould point out that adding an extra pad to the gpu backside between it and the copper on backplate, with a small square hole cut out in it did wonders for @Dasboogieman, i think; i'll dig and see if i can find a pic.
> 
> http://cdn.overclock.net/2/2a/900x900px-LL-2a92dbf3_IMG_20170417_150821.jpeg something like this. i think the other dude had a small square cut out in the middle.


**** looks like my 1mm pad isn't gonna work for my VRAM. Now I wonder if those 1mm pads is gonna sufficiently be enough to close that gap for the GPU backplate because if it can the Fujipoly Ultra Extreme should cut off some good temps.


----------



## Slackaveli

not sure on size but fuji is the bomb.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> not sure on size but fuji is the bomb.


Yeah sucks my VRAM won't be able to use them hopefully I can use them for the backplate and drive temps down. Hope @Dashboogieman can share with us what was the thickness he used. It looks around 1mm as those resistors sits pretty high.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> that's a potentially a self-imposed perfcap, man. i know you dont WANT to see 100% fans, but, do me a favor. do the same tests at 100%. i bet you see a pretty massive difference. then, weigh the pro/cons. if 100% fans gives you 2 bins, then it is totally worth it in my eyes. 100% fans on Aorus = 57% fans on Nvidia's FE Db wise.
> 
> questions: did you use paste or a pad? dumb question, i know.
> did you use pads under the backplate to connect with gpu backside better (because connection is pretty meh without that)? This one will give you ~8c-10c.
> 
> may not be worth it all, but, i see you tried this hard. getting to <58c is a bump. nothing huge, be we are freaks in here.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dude0014*
> 
> Oh god. Why did you show me this. I can't even take the card apart now. That's the downside of CLU, once applied you leave it alone.
> 
> Best I can do now is give it another shot with gelid between the AIO and copper backplate. *sigh*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Yeah sucks my VRAM won't be able to use them hopefully I can use them for the backplate and drive temps down. Hope @Dashboogieman can share with us what was the thickness he used. It looks around 1mm as those resistors sits pretty high.


From my tests, the thermal transfer bottleneck is currently the 3mm (maybe even 4mm but hard to tell with the heavy compression) stock padding that Gigabyte use between the PCB and the copper cold plate.
What I did was replace the stock gigabyte 3mm pads with Fujiploy 2mm (2x1mm padding stacked) then a thick layer of high viscosity thermal paste for the PCB interface (because its so uneven). Also, Gigabyte left holes in the original core pad job for some reason so I filled those with thermal putty.

That being said, regardless of cooling I'm capped out at 59 degrees with a Quadro single slot blower and the main fans at 100%. My H80i only managed to drop the temps to 56-57 ish so thats why I'm confident the bottleneck is the core padding.

In future im going to try using 1.5mm copper shims + 1.5mm fujiploy to see if that will improve the transfer between PCB and backplate but I suspect that will then sinply shift the bottleneck to the PCB fibreglass.

For the copper plate and the cooler I've been getting decent results with 1mm fujiploy and a thin layer of HeGrease. It didn't improve my temps too much over plain thermal pad alone but it was a helluva lot more stable than just pure thermal paste, i.e. the temp improvement was sustained over multiple loading cycles instead of just great on first day then degradation.


----------



## Migot

Hmmm strange thing, Yeasterday my card was able to boost to 2037.5mhz but today it only boost to 2025 mhz... in same game.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I've taken a step back from the whole "curve" scene and decided to try overclocking the old school way. I've found some interesting results. I found that overclocking this way, I never have any PerfCaps underload. I always had the GPU utilization Perfcap and that's gone too. I know I'm stable at +70/500 which nets me 2063 core. The voltage starts low at 1.012v and slowly raises voltage until it settles at 1.062v. The card never drops from 2063 the entire time which is cool because when I'm using the curve my core clock will drop, but not when overclocking this way for some reason.

The interesting part is when I do +80 which is 2076. It holds the clock speed perfectly with no perfcaps in Superposition UNTIL the card is about to hit 50C which results in a crash every time. Right when the card is teetering between 49C-50C is when the card crashes. Looks like I needed this waterblock more than I thought. Also, I have +100 on the voltage of the card, but the card never will go over 1.062v which is strange. I'm going to play around some more and try to figure this out.

Here is the screenshot of my 2076 run that resulted in a crash.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> Hmmm strange thing, Yeasterday my card was able to boost to 2037.5mhz but today it only boost to 2025 mhz... in same game.


Check temperatures. Your card loses 13mhz every 5 degree increase. As your ambient temperatures change, you may very well find that is the source of your fluctuation.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I've taken a step back from the whole "curve" scene and decided to try overclocking the old school way. I've found some interesting results. I found that overclocking this way, I never have any PerfCaps underload. I always had the GPU utilization Perfcap and that's gone too. I know I'm stable at +70/500 which nets me 2063 core. The voltage starts low at 1.012v and slowly raises voltage until it settles at 1.062v. The card never drops from 2063 the entire time which is cool because when I'm using the curve my core clock will drop, but not when overclocking this way for some reason.
> 
> The interesting part is when I do +80 which is 2076. It holds the clock speed perfectly with no perfcaps in Superposition UNTIL the card is about to hit 50C which results in a crash every time. Right when the card is teetering between 49C-50C is when the card crashes. Looks like I needed this waterblock more than I thought. Also, I have +100 on the voltage of the card, but the card never will go over 1.062v which is strange. I'm going to play around some more and try to figure this out.
> 
> Here is the screenshot of my 2076 run that resulted in a crash.


The GP102 card is manufactured on the 16nm FinFet process. FinFet has exponential leakage with increasing temperatures (unlike 28nm Planar of the GTX 980ti which has a more gradual ramp) which means its extremely sensitive to temperature.
This is the reason we see some rather spectacular overclock responses to even modest changes in operating temperatures, I found with my card, every 5 degree temp drop yields roughly 13mhz (voltage willing). Going cooler is definitely an easy way to improve headroom because you get the double benefit of higher OC stability and lower power throttling.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Check temperatures. Your card loses 13mhz every 5 degree increase. As your ambient temperatures change, you may very well find that is the source of your fluctuation.
> The GP102 card is manufactured on the 16nm FinFet process. FinFet has exponential leakage with increasing temperatures (unlike 28nm Planar of the GTX 980ti which has a more gradual ramp) which means its extremely sensitive to temperature.
> This is the reason we see some rather spectacular overclock responses to even modest changes in operating temperatures, I found with my card, every 5 degree temp drop yields roughly 13mhz (voltage willing). Going cooler is definitely an easy way to improve headroom because you get the double benefit of higher OC stability and lower power throttling.


Yep, I'm just waiting for EK to release the block and then I'm ordering it with the fastest shipping available. I already have Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut waiting for the block. I hate running on air. Sucks waiting for the block. For the Strix block it was supposed to be released Mid-April, but it wasn't released until the end of the month so I'm guessing the Aorus block will be released mid-May since it says it will release "Early-May".

For good news, it looks like I'm stable at 2076 with 1.081v. I've run through Firestrike Extreme and Ultra (Saw my kill-a-watt hit 510w!!) and also ran Timespy as well as some games. Even in benches I hold 2076 exceptionally well (got a very quick drop down to 2050 and then 2038 in Timespy, but then it jumped right back up to 2076. In games It always stays at 2076. I'm just going to ignore the Vrel and Pwr PerfCaps since the overclock is seemingly stable. Haven't tried going any higher yet. This card keeps surprising me! I usually go with EVGA, but I was able to snag this regular Aorus on launch day and I'm really glad I did. The card is a beast. Here is my Timespy run. Highest graphics score yet with 10926. Almost hit 11k!. CPU score is lower because I lowered my overclock from 4.7Ghz @ 1.38v to 4.4Ghz @ 1.3v, but my overall score is great with the increased graphics score.


----------



## rolldog

Just got my Gigabyte 1080 Ti Extremes in. What is everyone using to OC these cards, the Gigabyte software or Afterburner?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yep, I'm just waiting for EK to release the block and then I'm ordering it with the fastest shipping available. I already have Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut waiting for the block. I hate running on air. Sucks waiting for the block. For the Strix block it was supposed to be released Mid-April, but it wasn't released until the end of the month so I'm guessing the Aorus block will be released mid-May since it says it will release "Early-May".
> 
> For good news, it looks like I'm stable at 2076 with 1.081v. I've run through Firestrike Extreme and Ultra (Saw my kill-a-watt hit 510w!!) and also ran Timespy as well as some games. Even in benches I hold 2076 exceptionally well (got a very quick drop down to 2050 and then 2038 in Timespy, but then it jumped right back up to 2076. In games It always stays at 2076. I'm just going to ignore the Vrel and Pwr PerfCaps since the overclock is seemingly stable. Haven't tried going any higher yet. This card keeps surprising me! I usually go with EVGA, but I was able to snag this regular Aorus on launch day and I'm really glad I did. The card is a beast. Here is my Timespy run. Highest graphics score yet with 10926. Almost hit 11k!. CPU score is lower because I lowered my overclock from 4.7Ghz @ 1.38v to 4.4Ghz @ 1.3v, but my overall score is great with the increased graphics score.


oh, snap, that graphics score in timespy is only 40 less than my best ever run. And overall score beats me. VERY NICE. I swear our cards are from the same heart of the same die








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Just got my Gigabyte 1080 Ti Extremes in. What is everyone using to OC these cards, the Gigabyte software or Afterburner?


rolldog, just uninstall and trashcan that aorus software right now. the default LEDs are the best anyway (that's my story and im sticking to it). Afterburner is way more stable. You'll think your card is broken if you are using Aorus software.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yep, I'm just waiting for EK to release the block and then I'm ordering it with the fastest shipping available. I already have Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut waiting for the block. I hate running on air. Sucks waiting for the block. For the Strix block it was supposed to be released Mid-April, but it wasn't released until the end of the month so I'm guessing the Aorus block will be released mid-May since it says it will release "Early-May".
> 
> For good news, it looks like I'm stable at 2076 with 1.081v. I've run through Firestrike Extreme and Ultra (Saw my kill-a-watt hit 510w!!) and also ran Timespy as well as some games. Even in benches I hold 2076 exceptionally well (got a very quick drop down to 2050 and then 2038 in Timespy, but then it jumped right back up to 2076. In games It always stays at 2076. I'm just going to ignore the Vrel and Pwr PerfCaps since the overclock is seemingly stable. Haven't tried going any higher yet. This card keeps surprising me! I usually go with EVGA, but I was able to snag this regular Aorus on launch day and I'm really glad I did. The card is a beast. Here is my Timespy run. Highest graphics score yet with 10926. Almost hit 11k!. CPU score is lower because I lowered my overclock from 4.7Ghz @ 1.38v to 4.4Ghz @ 1.3v, but my overall score is great with the increased graphics score.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> oh, snap, that graphics score in timespy is only 40 less than my best ever run. And overall score beats me. VERY NICE. I swear our cards are from the same heart of the same die
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Just got my Gigabyte 1080 Ti Extremes in. What is everyone using to OC these cards, the Gigabyte software or Afterburner?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> rolldog, just uninstall and trashcan that aorus software right now. the default LEDs are the best anyway (that's my story and im sticking to it). Afterburner is way more stable. You'll think your card is broken if you are using Aorus software.
Click to expand...

Ha! OK, thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk


----------



## Laserob

I've read through most of these posts because I'm having crash issues when trying to push card past stock gamers mode. Test results below and fan at 100%. If I run in OC mode crashes withing a few seconds. I'm part of that first batch from Newegg. Not sure what to do, performance is OK but not as great as expected. Coming from Strix 980ti OC, Aorus Extremem 1080ti should do much better no? Seems like it's partly software related too but I'm not sure.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laserob*
> 
> I've read through most of these posts because I'm having crash issues when trying to push card past stock gamers mode. Test results below and fan at 100%. If I run in OC mode crashes withing a few seconds. I'm part of that first batch from Newegg. Not sure what to do, performance is OK but not as great as expected. Coming from Strix 980ti OC, Aorus Extremem 1080ti should do much better no? Seems like it's partly software related too but I'm not sure.


Aorus software or afterburner.


----------



## unkletom

Another extreme here cant raise core past +20 in afterburner giving me 1975 mhz. SAD!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> oh, snap, that graphics score in timespy is only 40 less than my best ever run. And overall score beats me. VERY NICE. I swear our cards are from the same heart of the same die


Yeah this card is great. If I still had my CPU at 4.7 i would have scored even high overall, but I'm keeping it at 4.4 Ghz at 1.30v to dissipate less heat into the loop for when i get the block on this card because temps are extremely important with these cards. I seriously wish there was a set release date on the block for this card because I'm going nuts over here waiting for it to drop any day now. I can't really push the card anymore on air because once i got 1.81v the card goes up to 60C and it seems to lose stability then. The witcher 3 requests more power from the card than 3dMark and Superposition. I saw my kill-a-watt jump up to 510w! Usually in benches the highest I've seen is 490 so that's 20 extra ways that the Witcher is pulling. I'm thinking about doing a clean install of Windows on my OS SSD so i can start completely clean. I try to do it once a year and it really helps maintain a clean system with no problems. Might as well did it now since I've just recently upgraded.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unkletom*
> 
> Afterburner doesn't even overclock voltage? I'm setting the slider to +100 but it shows 0 on the afterburner cyborg skin.


I believe that with that voltage bar on these cards it just allows the card more headroom to jump to higher voltages if needed. I'm not sure what you mean by "it shows zero" though. These 1080 Ti's are a whole lot different than the 900 series. These cards have a mind of their own thanks to the GPU boost 3.0 technology. They will drop and raise clocks and voltages on its own based on things like temperature or Perfcaps.


----------



## Laserob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Aorus software or afterburner.


I've tried both with similar final results. Not sure what to do next (if anything).


----------



## unkletom

Managed to get +30 2010 mhz (+20 before) now changing from F3 bios to F4 bios. Also high voltages don't help with my OC. I'm at +40 voltage now.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unkletom*
> 
> Managed to get +30 2010 mhz (+20 before) now changing from F3 bios to F4 bios. Also high voltages don't help with my OC. I'm at +40 voltage now.


well, fellaz, keep in mind that 2000mhz is above average and a good card, provided it isnt crashing at stock. if it is doing to much of that , I'd rma.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laserob*
> 
> I've tried both with similar final results. Not sure what to do next (if anything).


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Laserob*
> 
> I've read through most of these posts because I'm having crash issues when trying to push card past stock gamers mode. Test results below and fan at 100%. If I run in OC mode crashes withing a few seconds. I'm part of that first batch from Newegg. Not sure what to do, performance is OK but not as great as expected. Coming from Strix 980ti OC, Aorus Extremem 1080ti should do much better no? Seems like it's partly software related too but I'm not sure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unkletom*
> 
> Another extreme here cant raise core past +20 in afterburner giving me 1975 mhz. SAD!


Keep in mind, these cards have a stock clock of 1582mhz.. Pascal is just a refined Maxwell on a different manufacturing process so even boosting to 1975mhz is a good overclock by previous standard. The only difference is GPU Boost 3.0 has done the hard work for you already.

Additionally, no 1080ti AIB partners have had significant quantities of well binned chips. The best chips were all used in Quadros or the 1st batch of NVIDIA FE cards. We have rarely seen 2100mhz chips ever since FE or not. It just seems like they're pushing the lesser binned chips now to clear inventory.

Finally, trashcan the Aorus software, use MSI afterburner. There is a checklist of things to do before you can maximise your performance:
1. Repaste the card, seriously, this can net you up to 10 degrees and with these FinFet cards, 10 degrees can mean 26mhz or more.
2. Check out KedarWolf's power limit bat file, basically, it leverages the NVSMI driver to set the power limit on boot but many of us has noticed that this has an added effect of "forcing"the card to use a single steady voltage (like constant 1.093 unless a limit is hit) instead of random drops by 1 voltage bin at the same clockspeed (thus leading to a crash) whenever the card feels like
3.Fans to 100%, seriously it helps a lot with cooling since this card's cooler was not optimized for low airflow, the performance is huge and its not as loud as you think.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Keep in mind, these cards have a stock clock of 1582mhz.. Pascal is just a refined Maxwell on a different manufacturing process so even boosting to 1975mhz is a good overclock by previous standard. The only difference is GPU Boost 3.0 has done the hard work for you already.
> 
> Additionally, no 1080ti AIB partners have had significant quantities of well binned chips. The best chips were all used in Quadros or the 1st batch of NVIDIA FE cards. We have rarely seen 2100mhz chips ever since FE or not. It just seems like they're pushing the lesser binned chips now to clear inventory.
> 
> Finally, trashcan the Aorus software, use MSI afterburner. There is a checklist of things to do before you can maximise your performance:
> 1. Repaste the card, seriously, this can net you up to 10 degrees and with these FinFet cards, 10 degrees can mean 26mhz or more.
> 2. Check out KedarWolf's power limit bat file, basically, it leverages the NVSMI driver to set the power limit on boot but many of us has noticed that this has an added effect of "forcing"the card to use a single steady voltage (like constant 1.093 unless a limit is hit) instead of random drops by 1 voltage bin at the same clockspeed (thus leading to a crash) whenever the card feels like
> 3.Fans to 100%, seriously it helps a lot with cooling since this card's cooler was not optimized for low airflow, the performance is huge and its not as loud as you think.


totally 100% concur, man. Fan curve that kicks to 100% by 55c. It is way better than it should be. i mean, 80% sucks; 100% is great. It's stark. ANnd I gained 7c with a repaste, and my stock paste looked perfect. it wasnt bad, just bad quality. Some have a crap application to go with that, and easily 10c is possible.

And, Aorus software cost Gigabyte a LOT of money. It is responsible imo for over half of the RMAs they've been blasted with.


----------



## Douse

Can 100% recommend repasting the card. Once you get the temps down its almost like a different card. Bloody GPU Boost 3.0! Bring back the good old days of overclocking









So played 3 hours of Mass Effect: Andromeda at 1440p/ 60hz (dont have gsync







) and it stayed solid at 2101Mhz. Voltage jumped between 1.081v and 1.093v.

I think once my card starts pushing on the 60 degrees it will hit a PerfCap and drop to 2076Mhz. Not sure why it wouldnt drop to 2088Mhz. And these temps are only hit when benching at 4k. Maybe my situation will change when I finally get a gsync monitor and start pushing more frames...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 2. Check out KedarWolf's power limit bat file, basically, it leverages the NVSMI driver to set the power limit on boot but many of us has noticed that this has an added effect of "forcing"the card to use a single steady voltage (like constant 1.093 unless a limit is hit) instead of random drops by 1 voltage bin at the same clockspeed (thus leading to a crash) whenever the card feels like.


Power Limit bat file you say? Anyone else using this???? First I have heard of it.....

Oh and I have come around on the fan profile. Made it even more aggresive now....The noise really isnt that big a deal especially as I have head phones on when it really ramps up. Plus it isn't really sustained at 100% anyway.


----------



## Slackaveli

nice, Douse. you got a great card.


----------



## Douse

Cheers, I am very happy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> just uninstall and trashcan that aorus software right now. the default LEDs are the best anyway (that's my story and im sticking to it). Afterburner is way more stable. You'll think your card is broken if you are using Aorus software.


I know hey, it is so ****. I installed it to adjust my LED's and it wouldnt even do that properly. Ended up setting to flashing and I couldnt set it back.....Plus wouldnt even turn on the LED's if the aorus software wasnt running...Not even sure how I fixed it. Kept dicking with the LED settings until it finally got back to default and I quickly uninstalled the POS software.....So bad


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> Before my Aorus goes back, any last ideas for my gpu? I upgraded bios to new f3, and my games hold 60 frames but it just stutters, my Temps and clock numbers are solid but I can't remove occasional stutters. It's also when you move the cam in most games while moving.
> 
> Could a psu that's older possibly not be issuing enough power?


F3 (2017/04/06) isn't the newest BIOS, F4 (2017/04/18) is the newest BIOS.


----------



## rolldog

Has anyone tried using Nvidia Inspector on these cards yet? I haven't had a chance yet since I just installed my GPUs today. I'm trying to install a fresh build of Windows 10 first, which isn't so bad when the OS is on a 960 NVMe 1TB SD, but most of my apps are installed on another drive (2 x 850 EVOs RAID0) and my Desktop, Documents, Downloads, Pictures, etc are installed on 2 X WD Blacks RAID0. It's a hell of a lot easier to go with a fresh install of my OS when all my apps and data files are on 2 different drives.

I've always liked Nvidia Inspector since it's an advanced version of GPU-Z, but you can set the OCs, voltages, and pick a custom profile for any application you run. Does anyone use this, and if so, how did it work with these GPUs?


----------



## satinghostrider

How do you guys even change the core voltage? I'm using the Beta 6 4.40 AB,unlocked voltage control and set it to 3rd party.

I ran the slider at 100% and my voltage still peaks at 1.05v only. ?


----------



## Savatage79

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> F3 (2017/04/06) isn't the newest BIOS, F4 (2017/04/18) is the newest BIOS.


From what I had read they were two different types of bios, f3 for more performance while f4 was more geared to better stability. I could be wrong but that's what I took from it all, either way my Aorus will be heading back so it's moot at this point.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> How do you guys even change the core voltage? I'm using the Beta 6 4.40 AB,unlocked voltage control and set it to 3rd party.
> 
> I ran the slider at 100% and my voltage still peaks at 1.05v only. ?


Don't know hey. You sure you are running the correct Afterburner? Maybe uninstall and reinstall?

Once I upgraded to Beta 6 it just worked. Any changes to the voltage in Afterburner have an immediate impact as I can see my clocks increase and verify higher voltages in GPU-Z....

What do you mean by 3rd party. Dont have that option in AB.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Savatage79*
> 
> From what I had read they were two different types of bios, f3 for more performance while f4 was more geared to better stability. I could be wrong but that's what I took from it all, either way my Aorus will be heading back so it's moot at this point.


Yeah pretty much. Although if you have the power % maxed out in gaming it shouldnt really differ to much imo. I know other people have different views on this. Upon saying that, I am running F3 as well









Sucks about returning your card. Are you going for another one or getting a full refund and buying something else?


----------



## Douse

..


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Don't know hey. You sure you are running the correct Afterburner? Maybe uninstall and reinstall?
> 
> Once I upgraded to Beta 6 it just worked. Any changes to the voltage in Afterburner have an immediate impact as I can see my clocks increase and verify higher voltages in GPU-Z....
> 
> What do you mean by 3rd party. Dont have that option in AB.
> Yeah pretty much. Although if you have the power % maxed out in gaming it shouldnt really differ to much imo. I know other people have different views on this. Upon saying that, I am running F3 as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sucks about returning your card. Are you going for another one or getting a full refund and buying something else?


When you unlock voltage control in the settings, it has a pull down menu to the right and third party is the last option (might need to scroll down).


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> When you unlock voltage control in the settings, it has a pull down menu to the right and third party is the last option (might need to scroll down).


Ah ns. I just have mine to Standard MSI


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Cheers, I am very happy.
> I know hey, it is so ****. I installed it to adjust my LED's and it wouldnt even do that properly. Ended up setting to flashing and I couldnt set it back.....Plus wouldnt even turn on the LED's if the aorus software wasnt running...Not even sure how I fixed it. Kept dicking with the LED settings until it finally got back to default and I quickly uninstalled the POS software.....So bad


almost my exact experience,.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Ah ns. I just have mine to Standard MSI


Ok I'm confused on which setting to use. I've tried both and it doesn't seem to ramp my voltages up at all. Peak still shows 1.05V.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Ok I'm confused on which setting to use. I've tried both and it doesn't seem to ramp my voltages up at all. Peak still shows 1.05V.


you were on the right setting before. i would re-install AB. make sure to check it's the 4.4.0 beta 6 version. some cards wont reach 1.903, but, you should at least get 1.063, 1.076, 1.081. i run +51mv (51%), and i catch the 1.081 bin.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> you were on the right setting before. i would re-install AB. make sure to check it's the 4.4.0 beta 6 version. some cards wont reach 1.903, but, you should at least get 1.063, 1.076, 1.081. i run +51mv (51%), and i catch the 1.081 bin.


Awesome Slack. I'll give it a try! So I presume I use the standard MSI voltage setting instead of the 3rd party setting.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Awesome Slack. I'll give it a try! So I presume I use the standard MSI voltage setting instead of the 3rd party setting.


Now I am not sure now. All I know is that I am using standard and it works.

I think Slackaveli was saying to use 3rd party.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Now I am not sure now. All I know is that I am using standard and it works. And yeah I am on beta 6 4.40. Confirmed.
> 
> I think Slackaveli was saying to use 3rd party.


Sucks.I tried both standard and third party and my max in GPU-Z is only 1.05V while benchmarking Timespy. Started with 51% and maxed out to 100% too. No go. Weird. Maybe my Pascal is cursed.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I was able to hold 2076 through the entire Superposition benchmark with a voltage of 1.081v. No perfcaps except some very small power limit spikes. I changed the polling rate to 0.1s to try to catch any fluctuations in the frequency, but I didn't see any. The wierd thing is that the score is pretty low. Just over 10k. This is with my 6700k @ 4.7Ghz. Strange!



EDIT: Ran it again and I scored a little higher this time.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I was able to hold 2076 through the entire Superposition benchmark with a voltage of 1.081v. No perfcaps except some very small power limit spikes. I changed the polling rate to 0.1s to try to catch any fluctuations in the frequency, but I didn't see any. The wierd thing is that the score is pretty low. Just over 10k. This is with my 6700k @ 4.7Ghz. Strange!


I don't think that's your sweet spot. More like a one off bench run. If I'm not wrong, some could run 2062/2,076 with no voltage added.

It's weird even my card at 2,050Mhz scored 10,715 graphics score in Timespy and I've seen benchmarks with others running 2,088Mhz is around 10,7xx also.

Law of diminishing returns? I'm reading almost every forum or articles on 1080 Ti and everyone says the best overclock for Pascal is TIM. ?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Sucks.I tried both standard and third party and my max in GPU-Z is only 1.05V while benchmarking Timespy. Started with 51% and maxed out to 100% too. No go. Weird. Maybe my Pascal is cursed.


Did you try a custom curve? With +100v I'm able to set a bin of 2076 @ 1.081v and it will hold that bin forever. Here is what my curve looks like. Right below 1.081v I dropped it to 2050.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Did you try a custom curve? With +100v I'm able to set a bin of 2076 @ 1.081v and it will hold that bin forever. Here is what my curve looks like. Right below 1.081v I dropped it to 2050.


No I haven't. Quite honestly the custom curve is all star wars to me. I'm pleasantly lost on how to start. Right now, with no voltage, max power and thermal limit, I can sustain 2037.5Mhz consistently in game and benchmarks with it dropping to 2,025Mhz at some points. If I increase my core by 22Mhz, I get 2,050Mhz. And all at a peak voltage of 1.05V. Doubt I'll be able to go any higher.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> No I haven't. Quite honestly the custom curve is all star wars to me. I'm pleasantly lost on how to start. Right now, with no voltage, max power and thermal limit, I can sustain 2037.5Mhz consistently in game and benchmarks with it dropping to 2,025Mhz at some points. If I increase my core by 22Mhz, I get 2,050Mhz. And all at a peak voltage of 1.05V. Doubt I'll be able to go any higher.


You would be surprised. Doing a custom curve gives you a lot more freedom for clock speeds and voltage than simply adding +whatever to the core. It's worth a shot!


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> You would be surprised. Doing a custom curve gives you a lot more freedom for clock speeds and voltage than simply adding +whatever to the core. It's worth a shot!


I'll need more time to figure this out but I know alot had more luck with custom curves. I just need to get work out of the way to put my head to this and start playing around. But I think I shouldn't procrastinate with my current clocks.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I'll need more time to figure this out but I know alot had more luck with custom curves. I just need to get work out of the way to put my head to this and start playing around. But I think I shouldn't procrastinate with my current clocks.


Coming from a 980 Ti, this was really a completely different overclocking process thanks to GPU BOOST 3.0. Before i would just as my volts raise the core clock and memory, and just be done with it. Now the cards have a mind of their own and a custom curve can help with that. There's some good tutorials if you search google. It took some getting used to ,but now it's second nature.


----------



## orion933

I don't understand my card.

If I put the power limit highter than 110% i cant finish some benchmarks...
the card boost to 2000-2012mz
temps are ok <60°c
0 core clock
+100 memory clock
I'm on f4 bios
PSu corsair 1000w

I don't know what to do :/ can someone help


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> I don't understand my card.
> 
> If I put the power limit highter than 110% i cant finish some benchmarks...
> the card boost to 2000-2012mz
> temps are ok <60°c
> 0 core clock
> +100 memory clock
> I'm on f4 bios
> PSu corsair 1000w
> 
> I don't know what to do :/ can someone help


I'd try flashing the F3 BIOS. Seems to be more stable. So when you say that you can't finish some benchmarks what do you mean by that? The computer shuts down? The program crashes? How are you supplying power to the card? Do you have two dedicated 8 pin connectors or are you using a splitter?


----------



## orion933

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I'd try flashing the F3 BIOS. Seems to be more stable. So when you say that you can't finish some benchmarks what do you mean by that? The computer shuts down? The program crashes? How are you supplying power to the card? Do you have two dedicated 8 pin connectors or are you using a splitter?


Hraven 4.0 the program crash and sometime firestrike ultra on graphic test 2 . No computer crash just program
I was on sli before so i put 2 pin connectors
Will try on f3 and see what happen then..


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> I don't understand my card.
> 
> If I put the power limit highter than 110% i cant finish some benchmarks...
> the card boost to 2000-2012mz
> temps are ok <60°c
> 0 core clock
> +100 memory clock
> I'm on f4 bios
> PSu corsair 1000w
> 
> I don't know what to do :/ can someone help


Try increasing your core clocks first. Memory clocks are very picky on the card. Start with +20Mhz first and move up by 5Mhz. Do not touch the memory first.


----------



## orion933

i m on f3 now
Put limitpower to 125% corevoltage 0 and core +10 and 0 memory still crash on heaven 4.0


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> i m on f3 now
> Put limitpower to 125% corevoltage 0 and core +10 and 0 memory srill crash on heaven 4.0


1. Did you increase your temp limit to 91 degs?

2. Run fan at 100% not default.

Let me know if it's still crashing. And make sure you don't use the Auros engine by Gigabyte but MSI Afterburner software. The Aorus software is very unstable and crap.


----------



## orion933

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> 1. Did you increase your power limit to 91 degs?
> 
> 2. Run fan at 100% not default.
> 
> Let me know if it's still crashing. And make sure you don't use the Auros engine by Gigabyte but MSI Afterburner software. The Aorus software is very unstable and crap.


If i put 125% in afterburner temp limit are link to 90° its ok?

I run after burner beta 6 and put fans to 100% @ 50°


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> If i put 125% in afterburner temp limit are link to 90° its ok?
> 
> I run after burner beta 6 and put fans to 100% @ 50°


Yes max out the power and temp limit. Run fans 100% and use Afterburner. Don't use the Aorus Engine software. Make sure you uninstall the Aorus engine as that takes up too much CPU usage that makes you think your card is unstable. So try that and report back.


----------



## orion933

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Yes max out the power and temp limit. Run fans 100% and use Afterburner. Don't use the Aorus Engine software. Make sure you uninstall the Aorus engine as that takes up too much CPU usage that makes you think your card is unstable. So try that and report back.


I nerver installed aorus softeware ^^
So i can pass heaven 4.0 but i have a black screen like a crash but then the test go on after that
Not very stable yet
125%
0 core volatge
0 core clock
0 memory


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> I nerver installed aorus softeware ^^
> So i can pass heaven 4.0 but i have a black screen like a crash but then the test go on after that
> Not very stable yet
> 125%
> 0 core volatge
> 0 core clock
> 0 memory


Hmmm that's weird. What are your temps?


----------



## orion933

My temps during the test my temps are 61° max
Should i rma it ?

Firestrike ultra and superposition bench are ok


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> My temps during the test my temps are 61° max
> Should i rma it ?


Try resetting your pc one more time and retry. Looks like you have a basis to RMA. Temps looks fine.


----------



## gpvecchi

Hallo! May someone submit the Xtreme bios? I'd like to try to flash it on my standard Aorus edition.
Many thanks!

EDIT: is it notrmal that voltage control is grayed out in MSI Afterburner?


----------



## orion933

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Try resetting your pc one more time and retry. Looks like you have a basis to RMA. Temps looks fine.


I opened the case to be sure everything was good with cables
But i juste cant let the card @125%
I dont know if I want to rma it because i dont want to wait weeks before a new one and it boost @ 1950 so its ok for me.
What do you think ?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Hallo! May someone submit the Xtreme bios? I'd like to try to flash it on my standard Aorus edition.
> Many thanks!
> 
> EDIT: is it notrmal that voltage control is grayed out in MSI Afterburner?


You can find the F4 BIOS on the techpowerup website. This is the one you want:

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/190959/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-170331

or here:

http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl

You need to download MSI Afterburner 4.4.0 beta 6 to unlock voltage control. You can download that here:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5412373&postcount=216


----------



## gpvecchi

Many thanks, I missed the 4.4.0 beta...
And thanks for the bios, the one on the support site can't be flashed as mismatches the ID; are you sure the bios on Techpowerup is the correct one?
It says Xtreme Gaming, even if the photo is from Aorus Xtreme, and I'd need the one with DVI plug...


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orion933*
> 
> My temps during the test my temps are 61° max
> Should i rma it ?
> 
> Firestrike ultra and superposition bench are ok


you getting close to that point for sure.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Many thanks, I missed the 4.4.0 beta...
> And thanks for the bios, the one on the support site can't be flashed as mismatches the ID; are you sure the bios on Techpowerup is the correct one?
> It says Xtreme Gaming, even if the photo is from Aorus Xtreme, and I'd need the one with DVI plug...


If you download the driver from Gigabyte's website, after you unzip it, you'll have both versions of the BIOS. Just flash the one that enables the DVI port instead of the HDMI port.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Many thanks, I missed the 4.4.0 beta...
> And thanks for the bios, the one on the support site can't be flashed as mismatches the ID; are you sure the bios on Techpowerup is the correct one?
> It says Xtreme Gaming, even if the photo is from Aorus Xtreme, and I'd need the one with DVI plug...


Sorry, it's possible I linked you to the wrong one. Here is a link to all the Gigabyte 1080 Ti BIOS's available. It looks like there are 3 different BIOS's for the Xtreme Edition Gaming (The first two seem to be the same).

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/?architecture=NVIDIA&manufacturer=Gigabyte&model=GTX+1080+Ti&interface=&memType=&memSize=&since=
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> If you download the driver from Gigabyte's website, after you unzip it, you'll have both versions of the BIOS. Just flash the one that enables the DVI port instead of the HDMI port.


What he said!


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> If you download the driver from Gigabyte's website, after you unzip it, you'll have both versions of the BIOS. Just flash the one that enables the DVI port instead of the HDMI port.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What he said!


Ehm, nope... The bios is packed into an exe file together with the nvflash tool, and it can't be extracted. And flashing it gives mismatch with the standard Auros board...

I would be grateful if someone could PM me the Xtreme bios for DVI boards, thanks!


----------



## stealth83

After much hesitation I decided to use the Kraken G-10 on my Aourus 1080ti, It went pretty good I think. I put a post all about in the Kraken Room below.

Kraken G-10


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Ehm, nope... The bios is packed into an exe file together with the nvflash tool, and it can't be extracted. And flashing it gives mismatch with the standard Auros board...
> 
> I would be grateful if someone could PM me the Xtreme bios for DVI boards, thanks!


On techpowerup, if you go to the link i provided above and go through the available Xtreme bios's you can look at the detailed of each one and see which one has a DVI input. Looks like this is it:

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/190963/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-170331-2


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Can 100% recommend repasting the card. Once you get the temps down its almost like a different card. Bloody GPU Boost 3.0! Bring back the good old days of overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So played 3 hours of Mass Effect: Andromeda at 1440p/ 60hz (dont have gsync
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and it stayed solid at 2101Mhz. Voltage jumped between 1.081v and 1.093v.
> 
> I think once my card starts pushing on the 60 degrees it will hit a PerfCap and drop to 2076Mhz. Not sure why it wouldnt drop to 2088Mhz. And these temps are only hit when benching at 4k. Maybe my situation will change when I finally get a gsync monitor and start pushing more frames...
> Power Limit bat file you say? Anyone else using this???? First I have heard of it.....
> 
> Oh and I have come around on the fan profile. Made it even more aggresive now....The noise really isnt that big a deal especially as I have head phones on when it really ramps up. Plus it isn't really sustained at 100% anyway.


Here's the bat File, just adjust it in notepad++ to do 375W instead of 358

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/8750


----------



## unkletom

Got the card stable at 2050 mhz with the custom curve. It really does help.

I'm glad the Aorus remembers the led colors I set it in with the Gigabyte software so I don't have to keep running their buggy software.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Here's the bat File, just adjust it in notepad++ to do 375W instead of 358
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/8750


Cheers. Anyone using it for the Aorus? Make a difference?


----------



## satinghostrider

Just curious, do you guys max out power and thermal limit during gaming or leave it completely stock? Just interested to know you guys take on this.

Or setting a certain percentage for the power and thermal limit?


----------



## Firann

Curious worh everyone's expirience with the card. I found a good deal on it at gbp 720 and its eother this or the zotac amp edition for 693. I know this cooler is the uped up version where as the zotac is t the extreme version, but i read some reports about coil whine on these. Anyone expirienced issues?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firann*
> 
> Curious worh everyone's expirience with the card. I found a good deal on it at gbp 720 and its eother this or the zotac amp edition for 693. I know this cooler is the uped up version where as the zotac is t the extreme version, but i read some reports about coil whine on these. Anyone expirienced issues?


most important question to ask yourself
Are you willing to do minor modifications like strip downs, cleaning and repasting?

If a little handyman work doesn't phase you then this card is fantastic value, it also happens to have the highest power limit of all the cards and a unique sound profile when the fans are at 100% (it doesn't sound as loud as the decibels suggest since it is a low pitched whooshing noise, no screeching)

If you cannot deal with a little handyman work like repadding the base, repasting, shimming the frame to reduce vibration etc etc then you're better off with the Strix which is more expensive but is out-of-the box ready.

Its buying a vintage mustang vs a BMW

P:S coil whine is an issue on all cards (except maybe the Strix but I can't confirm their chokes), the question is how much padding are your willing to do to eliminate it.


----------



## P3PoX

Can anyone confirm that Aorus Graphics engine v 1.07 fixed incorrect clocks in OC mode? Xtreme had 1733MHz boost in OC mode in 1.06 version. Did they fix it in 1.07 back to 1746mhz?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Ehm, nope... The bios is packed into an exe file together with the nvflash tool, and it can't be extracted. And flashing it gives mismatch with the standard Auros board...
> 
> I would be grateful if someone could PM me the Xtreme bios for DVI boards, thanks!


When you download the F4 BIOS from Gigabyte's website, it's in a zip file. After you extract it, you'll have 2 folders, N108TAXH.F4 and N108TAXD.F4. The AXH folder is the BIOS to flash to enable the HDMI port, and the AXD folder will enable the DVI port. It is an executable file to flash each BIOS. No need to manually flash using NVFLASH since you can't mod the BIOS. Just run the AD file and be done with it.

If you're cross flashing, then the executable won't work, but you still need the AD BIOS.


----------



## Firann

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> most important question to ask yourself
> Are you willing to do minor modifications like strip downs, cleaning and repasting?
> 
> If a little handyman work doesn't phase you then this card is fantastic value, it also happens to have the highest power limit of all the cards and a unique sound profile when the fans are at 100% (it doesn't sound as loud as the decibels suggest since it is a low pitched whooshing noise, no screeching)
> 
> If you cannot deal with a little handyman work like repadding the base, repasting, shimming the frame to reduce vibration etc etc then you're better off with the Strix which is more expensive but is out-of-the box ready.
> 
> Its buying a vintage mustang vs a BMW
> 
> P:S coil whine is an issue on all cards (except maybe the Strix but I can't confirm their chokes), the question is how much padding are your willing to do to eliminate it.


I dont mind removing the block and repasting. I bought grizzly paste and have mx-4. I can deal with that







can you elaborate on what repadding and shimming means? I cant go that high on the strix as its around 800 gbp. I wouldnt consider this card either but i found it on a great deal.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Firann*
> 
> I dont mind removing the block and repasting. I bought grizzly paste and have mx-4. I can deal with that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can you elaborate on what repadding and shimming means? I cant go that high on the strix as its around 800 gbp. I wouldnt consider this card either but i found it on a great deal.


If you get coil whine, apply a thin thermal pad on top in order to brace the coils against the Heatsink. If it whines real bad then either brace the coils together with Seksui thermal tape or spread hot glue around the inductors. Because the tricky thing with coil whine is it may not be the card, it may be other electrical characteristics of ur setup, but padding always helps regardless.


----------



## c0ld

Does everyone that run 100% fans play with headphones?? 100% is too noisy, the beauty of this card is being silent when gaming. Mine hits 64C at 78-82% fan speed and still my case fans are louder than it. Once I get my NZXT Grid+ V2 fan controller things should go even quieter and maybe I can mess more with the fan profile once I get the case fans quiet.


----------



## Firann

Thanks for the info dasboogieman!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Just curious, do you guys max out power and thermal limit during gaming or leave it completely stock? Just interested to know you guys take on this.
> 
> Or setting a certain percentage for the power and thermal limit?


me- +51 Mv , PL125, TL90.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> most important question to ask yourself
> Are you willing to do minor modifications like strip downs, cleaning and repasting?
> 
> If a little handyman work doesn't phase you then this card is fantastic value, it also happens to have the highest power limit of all the cards and a unique sound profile when the fans are at 100% (it doesn't sound as loud as the decibels suggest since it is a low pitched whooshing noise, no screeching)
> 
> If you cannot deal with a little handyman work like repadding the base, repasting, shimming the frame to reduce vibration etc etc then you're better off with the Strix which is more expensive but is out-of-the box ready.
> 
> Its buying a vintage mustang vs a BMW
> 
> P:S coil whine is an issue on all cards (except maybe the Strix but I can't confirm their chokes), the question is how much padding are your willing to do to eliminate it.


so, all ive done is repaste. what would one order, ideally, as far as pads go? I know brand, im fujipoly 17mk all day. But, widths and how much (b/c that crap is hella expensive)? I really want to give my vrams the best possible cooling for the $ I can, too. those like self adhesive heatsinks or would you thermal pad it? bearing in mind that backplate will have a fan and two medium sized alum heatsinks dispersing up there. i know the gpu backside needs padded. it looked like when i had her open that the vrms were padded up nicely. i really just want my vrams cooler. i can only hold +435 before she starts giving errors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Does everyone that run 100% fans play with headphones?? 100% is too noisy, the beauty of this card is being silent when gaming. Mine hits 64C at 78-82% fan speed and still my case fans are louder than it. Once I get my NZXT Grid+ V2 fan controller things should go even quieter and maybe I can mess more with the fan profile once I get the case fans quiet.


it's ALL to be determined by your rooms ambient Db level. ie, case fans, Home AC, house fans, etc, imo. In my case, I have custom curved F-12s. I have them nice n chill until about 50c on my 5775-c, then you can hear them barely. That "barely"= 100% on the Aorus fans (case has great sound characteristics- BitPhenix Ronin), so my Aorus fans hit 100% at 58c on the gpu. It's a perfect blend that took some tuning to achieve, but in the games I play, those fans are either quiet together or running the same speed. This was a bit hard to describe, I hope it makes sense.

TL;DR- Custom profiles on cpu, gpu, and case fans are methodically tuning according to their sound characteristics to blend together seemlessly as if they were one single fan's sound signature.









Also, thanks for the love, people. 50 rep? I am honored.


----------



## Slackaveli

..


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> it's ALL to be determined by your rooms ambient Db level. ie, case fans, Home AC, house fans, etc, imo. In my case, I have custom curved F-12s. I have them nice n chill until about 50c on my 5775-c, then you can hear them barely. That "barely"= 100% on the Aorus fans (case has great sound characteristics- BitPhenix Ronin), so my Aorus fans hit 100% at 58c on the gpu. It's a perfect blend that took some tuning to achieve, but in the games I play, those fans are either quiet together or running the same speed. This was a bit hard to describe, I hope it makes sense.
> 
> TL;DR- Custom profiles on cpu, gpu, and case fans are methodically tuning according to their sound characteristics to blend together seemlessly as if they were one single fan's sound signature.


I see so your case has sound deadening? Because the 100% fan on the aorus is loud lol.

I am trying to get that single sound signal once I get the controller, I thought my mobo's PMW Chasis fan were gonna be good at modulating the speeds but their crap LOL. Even in the silent profile their loud as hell, I should be able to run them silently since I got a good fan setup( 2 NZXT Aer rgb 140mm intake, 1 Corsair ML120mm bottom intake, 1 NZXT Aer rgb 140mm back exhaust, 2 Gentle Typhoon AP-15's for the radiator top exhaust)


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> On techpowerup, if you go to the link i provided above and go through the available Xtreme bios's you can look at the detailed of each one and see which one has a DVI input. Looks like this is it:
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/190963/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-170331-2


This was correct, thanks! After that I flashed official F4 bios. Now I have to check for stability...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Cheers. Anyone using it for the Aorus? Make a difference?


Interested, too!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> When you download the F4 BIOS from Gigabyte's website, it's in a zip file. After you extract it, you'll have 2 folders, N108TAXH.F4 and N108TAXD.F4. The AXH folder is the BIOS to flash to enable the HDMI port, and the AXD folder will enable the DVI port. It is an executable file to flash each BIOS. No need to manually flash using NVFLASH since you can't mod the BIOS. Just run the AD file and be done with it.
> 
> If you're cross flashing, then the executable won't work, but you still need the AD BIOS.


Eeeeeeeeeeeexactly my case!


----------



## UdoG

Any experience with Bykski or Barrow water blocks?

https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/Bykski-N-GV1080TIXT-X-Full-Cover-Graphics-Card-Water-Cooling-Block-for-Gigabyte-AORUS-GTX1080Ti/431286_32809338260.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.KvnI8j

https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-RGB-Full-Cover-Graphics-Card-Water-Cooling-Block-BS-GIX1080T-PA-for-Gigabyte-AORUS-GTX1080Ti/431286_32809286975.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.cJJfSs

or better wait for ekwb?


----------



## Davekidd

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=412822&page=15


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Interested, too!


I ran the bat file and it says that it has set the power limit to '375 from 375'. So it appears to already be set to maximum? Not sure if it is worth using the bat file for our configs. I ran a 4k supo after that script ran and I got the same results. So I am going to say it doesn't do anything for our cards.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Any experience with Bykski or Barrow water blocks?
> 
> https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/Bykski-N-GV1080TIXT-X-Full-Cover-Graphics-Card-Water-Cooling-Block-for-Gigabyte-AORUS-GTX1080Ti/431286_32809338260.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.KvnI8j
> 
> https://de.aliexpress.com/store/product/Barrow-RGB-Full-Cover-Graphics-Card-Water-Cooling-Block-BS-GIX1080T-PA-for-Gigabyte-AORUS-GTX1080Ti/431286_32809286975.html?spm=2114.12010612.0.0.cJJfSs
> 
> or better wait for ekwb?


I'm going crazy waiting for EK to release this block, but I've never even heard of those companies before so I'm going to stick it out and wait for them to release it. I'd rather wait for a good product than just buy something because it's available now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davekidd*
> 
> 
> 
> http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=412822&page=15


Nice! I might download it.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> I ran the bat file and it says that it has set the power limit to '375 from 375'. So it appears to already be set to maximum? Not sure if it is worth using the bat file for our configs. I ran a 4k supo after that script ran and I got the same results. So I am going to say it doesn't do anything for our cards.


It's to stop the voltage from randomly knocking itself down a bin or two at the same clockspeeds (e.g. 2050mhz @ 1.093 stays at that voltage instead of going down to 1.081 cuz the card thinks it has headroom) thus leading to a crash. It doesn't change anything else.

For some reason, the Power limit set by NVSMI keeps the voltage constant unless one of the performance limits (power/temp) kicks in.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> It's to stop the voltage from randomly knocking itself down a bin or two at the same clockspeeds (e.g. 2050mhz @ 1.093 stays at that voltage instead of going down to 1.081 cuz the card thinks it has headroom) thus leading to a crash. It doesn't change anything else.
> 
> For some reason, the Power limit set by NVSMI keeps the voltage constant unless one of the performance limits (power/temp) kicks in.


Right ok, cool. Are you using it?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Right ok, cool. Are you using it?


Yup


----------



## murenitu

State of publication of the Aorus software as you have said in all the replies that it seems that the instability of casua. Now I am trying to make a Voltage / HZ curve but I find that neither at 1.091v it holds me at 2063Mhz. I wonder ... how much tension is acceptable. 1.100v? What is the maximum permissible?


----------



## knotted1

This card definetly needs to be on water. Hate it that the EK block has been delayed to the last week of May.
Thanks everyone for the great tips in this thread. Re-did my Xtreme with Gelid and it made a significant difference. And thanks Slack for the fan curve.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knotted1*
> 
> This card definetly needs to be on water. Hate it that the EK block has been delayed to the last week of May.
> Thanks everyone for the great tips in this thread. Re-did my Xtreme with Gelid and it made a significant difference. And thanks Slack for the fan curve.


Woah where did you hear that they delayed the block?


----------



## knotted1

Go to the EK Configurator for GPU blocks and enter the Aorus card. It now says "last week of May".


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> State of publication of the Aorus software as you have said in all the replies that it seems that the instability of casual. Now I am trying to make a Voltage / HZ curve but I find that neither at 1.091v it holds me at 2063Mhz. I wonder ... how much tension is acceptable. 1.100v? What is the maximum permissible?


Mini guide:

+100Mv can bring 1.093v bin, although some leakier cards cant get past 1.081v. in my experience, +51 gives me access to the 1.081v and 01.76v bins.

my curve for everyday (i can get thru a supo 4k run at 1.093v 2114 locked, but it's not really stable) is +51mv, 125% PL, 90c TL, Curve, +420 (







) memory-
is as follows ...
(this is the full curve method as opposed to the 'cliff' method where you just lock the top one). keep in mind you may be able to get a bin higher than me at each point but my card is pretty golden so it may be 1 or 2 bins lower at each V point. a bin=13Mhz (more accurately 2 bins = 25Mhz. some find it easier to do 25Mhz's bumps, then back off 12 at the crash points).

(1.93v= 2101... i use for benching, voltage turned down for day to day) 1.081v = 2088, 1.076v = 2076, 1.063v = 2063 , 1.05v = 2050, 1.043v = 2037, 1.031v = 2025. 1.02v = 2025. 1.00v= 2025 (how i keep the card from ever going below 2025, and since that is stable at 1.00v, i know i can do that. always determine what you can hold aT 1.00V FOR A POINT OF REFERENCE AND and a tuning point to 'stop the bleeding' so to speak) if i run +100mv, i acces the top 2101 bin. +75 does nothing for me. +50 gives me the 1.081v bin, and i usually use that. However, if I run +25v, i get the 1.076v bin and run 2076. at this setting I can usually stay under 60c and not have bin drop there. with no volts, it's a 2063Mhz card that tops out at 1.063v. Not temp difference for me than 1.076v. so, in another profile I have it flattened at the 2050 @ 1.05v mark. Here I stay under 59c, and my clocks never waiver more than 2025-2050. Usually it's just parked on 2037. That's my extreme game profile. the Longevity profile would be flattening it off at 2037 @ 1.00v., which settles in at .993v @ 2025Mhz. At that setting I run 53c. Kinda crazy I can hold 2025Mhz @ .993v. It's game stable.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knotted1*
> 
> This card definetly needs to be on water. Hate it that the EK block has been delayed to the last week of May.
> Thanks everyone for the great tips in this thread. Re-did my Xtreme with Gelid and it made a significant difference. And thanks Slack for the fan curve.


no problem, sir. happy to help.

I won't bother with the usual AIO hybrid kit that I do, for the simple fact that 10c more won't really do a thing for me (see above). But, if I had a full loop, this johnny would be on a block for sure. I am quite sure she's a 2150 card just needing an air conditioner.

Somebody convince me that thermal grizzly AIO cooler will keep me under 40c under load. Is that possible?

Sorry to double post, was intentional so as not to clutter up the guide.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> State of publication of the Aorus software as you have said in all the replies that it seems that the instability of casua. Now I am trying to make a Voltage / HZ curve but I find that neither at 1.091v it holds me at 2063Mhz. I wonder ... how much tension is acceptable. 1.100v? What is the maximum permissible?


Watch this video it explains it clearly for the 1080 Ti chipsets.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knotted1*
> 
> Go to the EK Configurator for GPU blocks and enter the Aorus card. It now says "last week of May".


You are correct. Here is the EK cooling configurator:



and here is their announced upcoming blocks:



So it looks like there is conflicting info. I just asked Akira which one is correct. I am getting so sick of waiting for this block to release. This card 100% needs water. EK are the kings of delays.


----------



## gpvecchi

What do you think of the stock TIM? Worth replacing?


----------



## murenitu

I do not understand ... I do not understand how it is possible that there are people with 2025 stable with 0.993v. I have to wait for someone from the Spanish forum to play with this chart and I can make something clear. What if I have clear is that for now unless I do something wrong, mine is no more than 2025 ... giving you tension to keep on Test. Besides that I realized that I can make it stay on 2025 ..... 2050 in some types of tests but then I try to play for example to the Overwatch and this fails to be initiated soon, it is more concretely Overwatch putting OC mode Of Aorus, shortly to be playing gives a failure saying that to lost the device of rendering.

On the other hand, the card that I have put the e reached to see at 1.090v and something, so it must be the ones that endure this tension. But I am unable to take advantage of it because it does not correctly configure the msi values afterburner, nor raise core by points, nor make a table. I always stay shortly. So I have no idea.

I am also waiting blocks of water, I have another graphic in its box waiting to be able to mount a sli for water. I still hope to be able to operate the 2 unison in 2.000hz.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> What do you think of the stock TIM? Worth replacing?


for sure. use thermal grizzly kryonaut for best results.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> I do not understand ... I do not understand how it is possible that there are people with 2025 stable with 0.993v. I have to wait for someone from the Spanish forum to play with this chart and I can make something clear. What if I have clear is that for now unless I do something wrong, mine is no more than 2025 ... giving you tension to keep on Test. Besides that I realized that I can make it stay on 2025 ..... 2050 in some types of tests but then I try to play for example to the Overwatch and this fails to be initiated soon, it is more concretely Overwatch putting OC mode Of Aorus, shortly to be playing gives a failure saying that to lost the device of rendering.
> 
> On the other hand, the card that I have put the e reached to see at 1.090v and something, so it must be the ones that endure this tension. But I am unable to take advantage of it because it does not correctly configure the msi values afterburner, nor raise core by points, nor make a table. I always stay shortly. So I have no idea.
> 
> I am also waiting blocks of water, I have another graphic in its box waiting to be able to mount a sli for water. I still hope to be able to operate the 2 unison in 2.000hz.


they are pretty tricky, and mine is an especially lucky one; dont be discouraged. 50Mhz clock= 1 fps, so you arent missing out on much. I know, it is crazy that it will do 2025 @ .993v.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> Here I stay under 59c, and my clocks never waiver more than 2025-2050. Usually it's just parked on 2037. That's my extreme game profile. the Longevity profile would be flattening it off at 2037 @ 1.00v., which settles in at .993v @ 2025Mhz. At that setting I run 53c. Kinda crazy I can hold 2025Mhz @ .993v. It's game stable.


So you dont game at 2101Mhz and +100mv? Any reason for dialing it back? I consider these still 'tolerable' especially with GPU Boost 3.0.

Whats your reasoning for dropping clocks and volts? Longevity? Temperatures? Should I be concerned running at this clock? I never had a real problem finding the max clock for cards (and cpu's) and running it 24x7

I do mine Monero with my card during the day, and I don't have it clocked up for that. Actually, I have slightly bumped the voltage because it randomly crashes at stock. Must be specific to what the mining is stressing.


----------



## Slackaveli

no real danger, it does shorten the life of any components to run extra volts. I do it more for peace of mind than anything, but Im not gaming at the 1v challenge, either. I run +51 most of the time which is 2088 @ 1.08v starting out and settles into 2063 @ 60c at 1.063v.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> for sure. use thermal grizzly kryonaut for best results.
> they are pretty tricky, and mine is an especially lucky one; dont be discouraged. 50Mhz clock= 1 fps, so you arent missing out on much. I know, it is crazy that it will do 2025 @ .993v.


So how are you doing the 0.993 @ 2025? I can run 1.00v stable at 2025, but only if I lock the voltage. Otherwise the voltage will keep jumping up which is strange because when I'm locked I get no perfcaps except the grey GPU Utilization perfcap, but I ignore that.

BTW since EK is seemingly delaying the block I'm thinking about just repasting with the Kyronaut I ordered. Should be here. I bought 5.5 grams of the stuff!


----------



## Elefantito

Hello all,
Could anyone check if this part of the backplate is slightly bent on your cards?
I'll try to post a pic later but at least mine isn't 100% straight.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So how are you doing the 0.993 @ 2025? I can run 1.00v stable at 2025, but only if I lock the voltage. Otherwise the voltage will keep jumping up which is strange because when I'm locked I get no perfcaps except the grey GPU Utilization perfcap, but I ignore that.
> 
> BTW since EK is seemingly delaying the block I'm thinking about just repasting with the Kyronaut I ordered. Should be here. I bought 5.5 grams of the stuff!


i run unlocked with everything past the voltage I want to stay at flat. so it doesnt think there is any perf to be gained by going up in voltage it just stays there. after awhile it will sometimes drop to 2025 @ .993v, which is where that comes from.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elefantito*
> 
> Hello all,
> Could anyone check if this part of the backplate is slightly bent on your cards?
> I'll try to post a pic later but at least mine isn't 100% straight.


i got no bends, sir.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i run unlocked with everything past the voltage I want to stay at flat. so it doesnt think there is any perf to be gained by going up in voltage it just stays there. after awhile it will sometimes drop to 2025 @ .993v, which is where that comes from.


That's a nice underclock! I'll have to try it again now that I've cleanly reinstalled the newest drivers and Afterburner beta 6. Going to install beta 8 after. Right now I'm just running +70/+500 and +51 which puts me at 2063 and the voltage ends up settling at 1.063v. Need to do a custom curve.


----------



## Elefantito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i got no bends, sir.


Thanks for checking.

This is what it looks like :


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Confirmation that the block is delayed to the third week of May.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elefantito*
> 
> Thanks for checking.
> 
> This is what it looks like :


No bends on mine either...


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elefantito*
> 
> Thanks for checking.
> 
> This is what it looks like :


where did you buy it?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's a nice underclock! I'll have to try it again now that I've cleanly reinstalled the newest drivers and Afterburner beta 6. Going to install beta 8 after. Right now I'm just running +70/+500 and +51 which puts me at 2063 and the voltage ends up settling at 1.063v. Need to do a custom curve.


ikr? higher than i expected. our cards are about the same, i bet you can hold 2012+ @ 1v


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elefantito*
> 
> Thanks for checking.
> 
> This is what it looks like :


Return it. Mine was without bend.

BTW: Today I'm taking my Aorus back and taking a new one. I just hope that the new one will be fine and without unpleasant sound..


----------



## Firann

I ordered my Aorus Ti yesterday and will e with me tomorrow







won't be back home until Monday to test it out though!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So my thermal grizzly kryonaut is going to be here today so i think I'll change the TIM on my card. I also have Fujipoly Extreme 1mm and 0.5mm pads so maybe I'll add those on if they are the right size. At least it will give me some cooling performance improvement before EK releases the block.


----------



## Elefantito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> where did you buy it?


Got it off Amazon, could return it right away, but it's been stable so far at OC clocks.
Wonder if Gigabyte support would be able to ship a new backplate instead of sending the entire card back and forth


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So my thermal grizzly kryonaut is going to be here today so i think I'll change the TIM on my card. I also have Fujipoly Extreme 1mm and 0.5mm pads so maybe I'll add those on if they are the right size. At least it will give me some cooling performance improvement before EK releases the block.


Wish you luck. Do let me know at which places the 1mm would fit. I've got my 1mm Fujipoly 17 otw and I would like to use them. I think memory modules are out as apparently they are thick. So the only other place viable could be the copper heatsink in the middle where it's empty and probably the chokes (maybe have to stack the pads if it's possible without any thermal disadvantages).

Thanks Ravage!


----------



## UdoG

New Afterburner beta:

MSI AB 4.4.0 beta 8 (includes RTSS 7.0.0 beta 22):

http://forums.guru3d.com/showpost.php?p=5429350&postcount=354

- Added voltage control for TITAN Xp
- Now MSI AB display framerate/frametime in OSD itself instead of allowing RTSS to do it, if you define a threshold on framerate or frametime
graph. The feature is implemented to synchronize OSD color alarm indication with actual OSD framerate/frametime refresh rate. Please take a note
that in this case RTSS settings related to framerate/frametime refresh and output customization are being ignored, and independent per-application framerate/frametime display support is not available (i.e. you won't be able to see independent framerates in each 3D application OSD if you run multiple 3D applications simultaneously).
- Now you can store hardware monitoring settings in profile slots and dynamically switch between multiple OSD configurations in realtime with hotkeys! New settings are controllable via "Profiles" tab, where you can select desired profile contents (only hardware settings, only monitoring settings or both). Profile related monitoring module settings includes hardware polling rate, active monitoring graphs list, graphs order and graph specific settings.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Wish you luck. Do let me know at which places the 1mm would fit. I've got my 1mm Fujipoly 17 otw and I would like to use them. I think memory modules are out as apparently they are thick. So the only other place viable could be the copper heatsink in the middle where it's empty and probably the chokes (maybe have to stack the pads if it's possible without any thermal disadvantages).
> 
> Thanks Ravage!


So the pads under here look thick. Most likely 2mm. I really hope the EK block uses 1mm and 0.5mm pads because that's what I bought. I actually destroyed the front LED connector trying to get it out. All the other connectors came out easily with some wiggling back and forth, but that connector felt like it was coated with Loctite. Long story short I ended up trying to grasp a hold onto the very top of the connector with a pair of needle-nose plyers, but they slipped and pulled the wires out of the connector. I was praying that it wasn't a fan connector. I don't care about losing the front LED since I'm going to be slapping a block onto it at the end of the month. I'll end up fixing it after the waterblock is on the card. Should be an easy job since I work in assembly and there is a huge surface mount board area with a ton of tools. I could actually even get the resistors needed to do the shunt mod and then solder it myself under a microscope haha

Oh as for temp drops I saw maybe a 1-2C drop, but my card was a perfect paste from the factory that never went over 60C. Now instead of 50C with 1.063v @ 2063 after the room ambient temp and the graphic card settles it's at 48-49C. I'll take any performance improvement I can get since EK delayed the Aorus block as usual. They've literally delayed every recent release.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So the pads under here look thick. Most likely 2mm. I really hope the EK block uses 1mm and 0.5mm pads because that's what I bought. I actually destroyed the front LED connector trying to get it out. All the other connectors came out easily with some wiggling back and forth, but that connector felt like it was coated with Loctite. Long story short I ended up trying to grasp a hold onto the very top of the connector with a pair of needle-nose plyers, but they slipped and pulled the wires out of the connector. I was praying that it wasn't a fan connector. I don't care about losing the front LED since I'm going to be slapping a block onto it at the end of the month. I'll end up fixing it after the waterblock is on the card. Should be an easy job since I work in assembly and there is a huge surface mount board area with a ton of tools. I could actually even get the resistors needed to do the shunt mod and then solder it myself under a microscope haha
> 
> Oh as for temp drops I saw maybe a 1-2C drop, but my card was a perfect paste from the factory that never went over 60C. Now instead of 50C with 1.063v @ 2063 after the room ambient temp and the graphic card settles it's at 48-49C. I'll take any performance improvement I can get since EK delayed the Aorus block as usual. They've literally delayed every recent release.


Yeah they are pretty thick. I came across the same issue







Ouch about the connector. They were super tough for me to get out as well and I had to use a small pair of needle nose pliers. If you just pulled the wires out, don't they clip back in? Or did they tear out?


----------



## ddferrari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *P3PoX*
> 
> Can anyone confirm that Aorus Graphics engine v 1.07 fixed incorrect clocks in OC mode? Xtreme had 1733MHz boost in OC mode in 1.06 version. Did they fix it in 1.07 back to 1746mhz?


Yes, OC boost clock shows 1746mhz in version 1.07- confirmed with GPU-Z


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah they are pretty thick. I came across the same issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch about the connector. They were super tough for me to get out as well and I had to use a small pair of needle nose pliers. If you just pulled the wires out, don't they clip back in? Or did they tear out?


A small amount of WD40 did the job for mine, just gotta be careful.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So the pads under here look thick. Most likely 2mm. I really hope the EK block uses 1mm and 0.5mm pads because that's what I bought. I actually destroyed the front LED connector trying to get it out. All the other connectors came out easily with some wiggling back and forth, but that connector felt like it was coated with Loctite. Long story short I ended up trying to grasp a hold onto the very top of the connector with a pair of needle-nose plyers, but they slipped and pulled the wires out of the connector. I was praying that it wasn't a fan connector. I don't care about losing the front LED since I'm going to be slapping a block onto it at the end of the month. I'll end up fixing it after the waterblock is on the card. Should be an easy job since I work in assembly and there is a huge surface mount board area with a ton of tools. I could actually even get the resistors needed to do the shunt mod and then solder it myself under a microscope haha
> 
> Oh as for temp drops I saw maybe a 1-2C drop, but my card was a perfect paste from the factory that never went over 60C. Now instead of 50C with 1.063v @ 2063 after the room ambient temp and the graphic card settles it's at 48-49C. I'll take any performance improvement I can get since EK delayed the Aorus block as usual. They've literally delayed every recent release.


I just left the LED connector off. I don't care about appearance so the extra 1-2W LED budget is going to the core lol.


----------



## xentrox

EKWB.. where you at? I hit refresh everyday.. waiting.. praying...


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> EKWB.. where you at? I hit refresh everyday.. waiting.. praying...


They delayed the block to the last week of May like they do with everything they release these days. I'm so sick of waiting for this block to release. This card needs water.


----------



## c0ld

I am very DIY but still iffy about taking the cooler off, my card seems like it got a good paste job. Mine runs at about avg 64C with a custom fan profile maxing out at about 83% speed.

I have been looking at Kyronaut and looks like pure hype maybe 1-2C difference from the MX-2 within error margin. Overpriced as f*ck lol. I mean it's great over crappy paste but any reputable paste is better than stock paste.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> I am very DIY but still iffy about taking the cooler off, my card seems like it got a good paste job. Mine runs at about avg 64C with a custom fan profile maxing out at about 83% speed.
> 
> I have been looking at Kyronaut and looks like pure hype maybe 1-2C difference from the MX-2 within error margin. Overpriced as f*ck lol. I mean it's great over crappy paste but any reputable paste is better than stock paste.


$12 , 10 minutes, and 5c. not a terrible upgrade imo.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> I am very DIY but still iffy about taking the cooler off, my card seems like it got a good paste job. Mine runs at about avg 64C with a custom fan profile maxing out at about 83% speed.
> 
> I have been looking at Kyronaut and looks like pure hype maybe 1-2C difference from the MX-2 within error margin. Overpriced as f*ck lol. I mean it's great over crappy paste but any reputable paste is better than stock paste.


I am in the same dilemma too. My card is around 63-64 degrees on full load too.

But after repeated testing, I have found that the card is best kept below 60 degrees. Whichever paste does that does not really matter but Thermal Grizzly is definitely about 1 degree Celsius lower than the competition. That 1 degree Celsius could be a throttle point so you could lose 13Mhz over than 1 bin drop just because of that. To me, it is worth paying abit more for that 1 degree Celsius. I just hate the goddamn shipping time.


----------



## Slackaveli

sating is right. even if it's only 1 or 2 degrees, all that matters is getting under the next throttle point.


----------



## xentrox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> I am very DIY but still iffy about taking the cooler off


I thought the same, and debated it over and over until I finally did it. It really isn't half as bad as you initially think. Just gotta make sure you don't have clumsy hands. The worst part of the whole taking apart process was removing the fan cables. For the Xtreme version I guess you got that LED wire too that you gotta take out carefully.

The difference I got in temperature, even with my crappy old ArcticSilver5 was beyond worth it. I had 71-72 C load on 100% fan. Now I don't touch 60 with 80% fan. Once the waterblocks come out though, I am going to be putting some better TIM that is for sure. Like everyone said here, every 1 degree C we shave off the card could mean the loss or a gain of 13MHz.


----------



## smonkie

Is the warranty void if the cooler is removed to reapply paste? Do I need anything appart from a small screwdriver?

Also, should I use Noctua HT-H1 or Liquid Ultra? I reckon Liquid is better but it would be messier afterwards too...


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> $12 , 10 minutes, and 5c. not a terrible upgrade imo.


Yeah definitely could improve my temps but to the point of next next throttle point I think the one before is 57C and the next one is 67C. I don't think it could be a 7C difference to justify dropping down to the next throttle point with the same fan profile.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I am in the same dilemma too. My card is around 63-64 degrees on full load too.
> 
> But after repeated testing, I have found that the card is best kept below 60 degrees. Whichever paste does that does not really matter but Thermal Grizzly is definitely about 1 degree Celsius lower than the competition. That 1 degree Celsius could be a throttle point so you could lose 13Mhz over than 1 bin drop just because of that. To me, it is worth paying abit more for that 1 degree Celsius. I just hate the goddamn shipping time.


Well my throttle point before the next which is 66-67C I think it was 57C I think? Don't know if I'll see that big of a drop :\
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xentrox*
> 
> I thought the same, and debated it over and over until I finally did it. It really isn't half as bad as you initially think. Just gotta make sure you don't have clumsy hands. The worst part of the whole taking apart process was removing the fan cables. For the Xtreme version I guess you got that LED wire too that you gotta take out carefully.
> 
> The difference I got in temperature, even with my crappy old ArcticSilver5 was beyond worth it. I had 71-72 C load on 100% fan. Now I don't touch 60 with 80% fan. Once the waterblocks come out though, I am going to be putting some better TIM that is for sure. Like everyone said here, every 1 degree C we shave off the card could mean the loss or a gain of 13MHz.


AS5 is still very decent paste though, very iffy I treat my components like they are the mayan treasure so that's why I am still iffy about it lol.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah they are pretty thick. I came across the same issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ouch about the connector. They were super tough for me to get out as well and I had to use a small pair of needle nose pliers. If you just pulled the wires out, don't they clip back in? Or did they tear out?


I was pulling upwards with the pliers when they slipped and pulled all of the wires out of the connector. Doesn't bother me since in a couple weeks I'll have a block on this card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smonkie*
> 
> Is the warranty void if the cooler is removed to reapply paste? Do I need anything appart from a small screwdriver?
> 
> Also, should I use Noctua HT-H1 or Liquid Ultra? I reckon Liquid is better but it would be messier afterwards too...


There are no warranty void stickers on these cards so I'm guessing the answer is no, your warranty will not be denied for changing the paste. Just make sure you really take your time getting the connectors out. Gently wiggle them back and forth. Also yes, all you need is a small screwdriver. Obviously the Liquid Ultra would have the best cooling properties so it's your decision if you want to put something conductive on the core. Or you can just jump on the Kryonaut train like the rest of us did


----------



## hmurij

Below drop box links to very depressing videos of my brand new Aorus GTX 1080 ti video card in 4k action...

https://www.dropbox.com/s/mccbcogohx57kxg/3dmark%20firestrike%204k.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/4b155l8j9u17adt/Black%20Ops%20III%204k.MOV?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/l1fpgism77hh44i/Superposition%204k.MOV?dl=0

I've been running card with F4 bios all the time same result as soon card is in 4k resolution it crashes as per video then goes black screen and it works for a while and cycle repeats indefinitely till one runs out of patience in absolute desperation!!! I've returned the card and seller demonstrated it working perfectly in full HD. Indeed it works well in full HD and absolutely useless in 4k. I've send the card back along with videos in hope of getting propper Aorus...

Below my system specs:

Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 14393) (14393.rs1_release_sec.170427-1353)
Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS VI IMPACT
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU @ 3.40GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.4GHz
Memory: 16384MB RAM
PSU: Silverstone SFX Series SX600-G


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmurij*
> 
> Below drop box links to very depressing videos of my brand new Aorus GTX 1080 ti video card in 4k action...
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/mccbcogohx57kxg/3dmark%20firestrike%204k.MOV?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/4b155l8j9u17adt/Black%20Ops%20III%204k.MOV?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/l1fpgism77hh44i/Superposition%204k.MOV?dl=0
> 
> I've been running card with F4 bios all the time same result as soon card is in 4k resolution it crashes as per video then goes black screen and it works for a while and cycle repeats indefinitely till one runs out of patience in absolute desperation!!! I've returned the card and seller demonstrated it working perfectly in full HD. Indeed it works well in full HD and absolutely useless in 4k. I've send the card back along with videos in hope of getting propper Aorus...
> 
> Below my system specs:
> 
> Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 14393) (14393.rs1_release_sec.170427-1353)
> Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS VI IMPACT
> Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU @ 3.40GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.4GHz
> Memory: 16384MB RAM
> PSU: Silverstone SFX Series SX600-G


Did you try the F3 BIOS? It has a higher default wattage with the same max vwattage of 375w. Also, I hope you aren't using that crap Aorus software. Don't even install it. Just use MSI Afterburner.


----------



## Tsahi

For ppl that experience random crashes and restarts when increasing power limit: if u are using a 600-650w u should disable any other overclock u might be doing: reverting to stock cpu and stock ram frequencies and disabling oc on the uncore will help a lot. Also make sure u are connecting 2 different cables to the 2nd 8 pin power connector on the card. Especially If u got 2 12v rails psu (mine is 24A×2). Psu might be setting u back still and will h9ld your oc baqck. Consider getting a higher wattage psu.

Also I thing I figured out why aorus software is so crap: even though it has voltage controls it doesn't really change it no matter what settings u put in the software will not make any alterations to the voltage value( max is 1.044). Meaning any (even the built in oc setting) might result in random crashes.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmurij*
> 
> Below drop box links to very depressing videos of my brand new Aorus GTX 1080 ti video card in 4k action...
> 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/mccbcogohx57kxg/3dmark%20firestrike%204k.MOV?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/4b155l8j9u17adt/Black%20Ops%20III%204k.MOV?dl=0
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/l1fpgism77hh44i/Superposition%204k.MOV?dl=0
> 
> I've been running card with F4 bios all the time same result as soon card is in 4k resolution it crashes as per video then goes black screen and it works for a while and cycle repeats indefinitely till one runs out of patience in absolute desperation!!! I've returned the card and seller demonstrated it working perfectly in full HD. Indeed it works well in full HD and absolutely useless in 4k. I've send the card back along with videos in hope of getting propper Aorus...
> 
> Below my system specs:
> 
> Operating System: Windows 10 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 14393) (14393.rs1_release_sec.170427-1353)
> Motherboard: ASUS MAXIMUS VI IMPACT
> Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-4770 CPU @ 3.40GHz (8 CPUs), ~3.4GHz
> Memory: 16384MB RAM
> PSU: Silverstone SFX Series SX600-G


That sounds like a psu issue. This card can draw up to 400w of power. Your PSU is likely to be the problem, especially if its a group regulated model. Make sure you are using independent 8 pin connectors with no splitters


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> That sounds like a psu issue. This card can draw up to 400w of power. Your PSU is likely to be the problem, especially if its a group regulated model. Make sure you are using independent 8 pin connectors with no splitters


man, how people could put a gpu like this on a shoddy or low powered psu is beyond me! 1000w Gold only! And I wont buy a non superflower psu for that matter.


----------



## hmurij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Did you try the F3 BIOS? It has a higher default wattage with the same max vwattage of 375w. Also, I hope you aren't using that crap Aorus software. Don't even install it. Just use MSI Afterburner.


I've tried both F4 (HDMI/DVI-D) same result, since card was already crashing and artifacting at 4k desktop I did not dare to try more aggressive F3 bios. Tried all with Aorus soft and without it same for afterburner with and without it same stuff.


----------



## hmurij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> That sounds like a psu issue. This card can draw up to 400w of power. Your PSU is likely to be the problem, especially if its a group regulated model. Make sure you are using independent 8 pin connectors with no splitters


Tested card with two PSU 600 / 650 W with same result. Perfectly realize this card is power hungry, however it should not crash and artifact in 4k desktop under no load, same with any game in very low setting at 4k resolution, same time perfectly stable under 100% load in full HD. In past I've been running GTX 780ti / GTX 980ti with power consumption up to 375 w on same hardware with no issues.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hmurij*
> 
> I've tried both F4 (HDMI/DVI-D) same result, since card was already crashing and artifacting at 4k desktop I did not dare to try more aggressive F3 bios. Tried all with Aorus soft and without it same for afterburner with and without it same stuff.


Get that power supply checked too just in case. I'm 90% sure that is at least part of your problem, especially if its been in use for a while. The specs indicate it can do 590W-593W when brand-new under hot loading scenarios. This is awfully close to your maximum limit because like I said, this card draws 350W-400W under 4K loading conditions alone. Your CPU can draw up to 90W and not including anything else on your system, we've not got much headroom left.

Let's see how the RMA goes. It looks real bad in the vids.


----------



## hmurij

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Get that power supply checked too just in case. I'm 90% sure that is at least part of your problem, especially if its been in use for a while. The specs indicate it can do 590W-593W when brand-new under hot loading scenarios. This is awfully close to your maximum limit because like I said, this card draws 350W-400W under 4K loading conditions alone. Your CPU can draw up to 90W and not including anything else on your system, we've not got much headroom left.
> 
> Let's see how the RMA goes. It looks real bad in the vids.


If I'll end up with the same card after RMA I'll have no other option as to get at least 700 w PSU and give it a try... Though I honestly doubt it will work, same time never say never... Thanks for support.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tsahi*
> 
> For ppl that experience random crashes and restarts when increasing power limit: if u are using a 600-650w u should disable any other overclock u might be doing: reverting to stock cpu and stock ram frequencies and disabling oc on the uncore will help a lot. Also make sure u are connecting 2 different cables to the 2nd 8 pin power connector on the card. Especially If u got 2 12v rails psu (mine is 24A×2). Psu might be setting u back still and will h9ld your oc baqck. Consider getting a higher wattage psu.
> 
> Also I thing I figured out why aorus software is so crap: even though it has voltage controls it doesn't really change it no matter what settings u put in the software will not make any alterations to the voltage value( max is 1.044). Meaning any (even the built in oc setting) might result in random crashes.


I'm not sure if I should use a seperate cable for my graphic card. Right now it's just 1 cable out of my power supply and it's split into 2 going to the VGA card. I experienced random crashes in games (DXGI ERROR) and my temps are around 63 only. I tested further and it occurs when I set my power limit more than 130% in after burner. I am on F4 Bios.

Benchmarks run totally fine also when I max out my power and thermal limit. So I'm not sure if it's an issue with Battlefront or it's not having enough power to my graphic card.

To be fair, I've had this issue since my Gigabyte 980 Ti and only get it in Battlefront so far. Not sure if my HX850I Power supply is enough. On another note, so you guys use single or multi rail mode on Corsair PSU?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I'm not sure if I should use a seperate cable for my graphic card. Right now it's just 1 cable out of my power supply and it's split into 2 going to the VGA card. I experienced random crashes in games (DXGI ERROR) and my temps are around 63 only. I tested further and it occurs when I set my power limit more than 130% in after burner. I am on F4 Bios.
> 
> Benchmarks run totally fine also when I max out my power and thermal limit. So I'm not sure if it's an issue with Battlefront or it's not having enough power to my graphic card.
> 
> To be fair, I've had this issue since my Gigabyte 980 Ti and only get it in Battlefront so far. Not sure if my HX850I Power supply is enough. On another note, so you guys use single or multi rail mode on Corsair PSU?


Oh god why do it off one cable? thats a lot of wattage going down one pipeline. Best case scenario you get instability and crashing, worst case scenario you get a fire. Just use the extra cable dude.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Oh god why do it off one cable? thats a lot of wattage going down one pipeline. Best case scenario you get instability and crashing, worst case scenario you get a fire. Just use the extra cable dude.


I didn't think it would pose a problem since I have 850w. But the reality could be much worse. Maybe all my voltage and full potential of my card is somehow hampered if this is really an issue. I'm gonna try it tonight and see if anything improves. I've been so oblivious to all these power supply issues blaming on my arse luck on silicon lottery. Let's see. Thanks Boogieman!


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Oh god why do it off one cable? thats a lot of wattage going down one pipeline. Best case scenario you get instability and crashing, worst case scenario you get a fire. Just use the extra cable dude.


Okay so I tried 2 x PCIE cable meaning 2 seperate rails from PSU to VGA card with each rail feeding 1 x PCIE pin.
For some weird reason, my card is running cooler even when I max out my TDP and thermal limits at MAX. Without any voltage, core or memory clocks, I get to 2,037.5 MHz and it is consistent all the way on GPU-Z with no perfcaps. I don't even see it drop any bins at all! My frame rates fluctuates less probably due to thermals allowing it to sit at 2,037.5 MHz through out my brief 15 mins session with max temps at 60 degrees. My TDP max shows around 141% in GPU-Z. Afterburner set to max TDP and thermal limit applied. Also, now if I increase my core voltage, I see 1.062V instead of the usual max I see at 1.05V so I think the card is running correctly now with seperate rails powering each 8 pin power on the VGA card.

I am gonna test more extensively but so far no crashes in Battlefront with full TDP and thermal limit. So I suppose my HX850i need not be changed for a higher wattage one? So for now, there is no more crashes in Battlefront and frame rates are heck of alot more stable. Dont understand why using 1 lead output from the PSU split into 2 8-Pin PCIE makes my computer randomly unstable. Using 2 lead output now it is very obvious how much more consistent the graphic card is and I can tell it just by looking at the frames. It is extremely consistent.

Many won't realise if you're having 1 cable split into 2 PCIE 8 pins from the PSU to the graphic card but it's a good time to have that changed to run 2 outputs from the PSU to the graphic card. I noticed alot of difference.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Okay so I tried 2 x PCIE cable meaning 2 seperate rails from PSU to VGA card with each rail feeding 1 x PCIE pin.
> For some weird reason, my card is running cooler even when I max out my TDP and thermal limits at MAX. Without any voltage, core or memory clocks, I get to 2,037.5 MHz and it is consistent all the way on GPU-Z with no perfcaps. I don't even see it drop any bins at all! My frame rates fluctuates less probably due to thermals allowing it to sit at 2,037.5 MHz through out my brief 15 mins session with max temps at 60 degrees. My TDP max shows around 141% in GPU-Z. Afterburner set to max TDP and thermal limit applied. Also, now if I increase my core voltage, I see 1.062V instead of the usual max I see at 1.05V so I think the card is running correctly now with seperate rails powering each 8 pin power on the VGA card.
> 
> I am gonna test more extensively but so far no crashes in Battlefront with full TDP and thermal limit. So I suppose my HX850i need not be changed for a higher wattage one? So for now, there is no more crashes in Battlefront and frame rates are heck of alot more stable. Dont understand why using 1 lead output from the PSU split into 2 8-Pin PCIE makes my computer randomly unstable. Using 2 lead output now it is very obvious how much more consistent the graphic card is and I can tell it just by looking at the frames. It is extremely consistent.
> 
> Many won't realise if you're having 1 cable split into 2 PCIE 8 pins from the PSU to the graphic card but it's a good time to have that changed to run 2 outputs from the PSU to the graphic card. I noticed alot of difference.


This is why I added this to a troubleshooting section in the first post. It seems to be a common problem. Grab a PSU with a single 12v rail! Glad you are getting better performance now.


----------



## Tsahi

i dont think getting a single rail psu is a thing to look for anymore. u shouldnt push that kind of current through 1 rail. especially for this kind of a power draw.

Linus tech tips :





Single Rails VS Multiple Rails Power Supplies - With Jonny Guru | Corsair PSU:


----------



## Slackaveli

the key in this situation is to have a PSU greater than 750w and to run each 8-pin on it's own cable.

Fail to heed this at your own peril...


----------



## Douse

So not to be a nay sayer about the 'using two connectors' rule here, but it is not always true. It is dependent on your power supply.

If your power supply uses MULTIPLE 12v rails (internally), then yes, it is important to split the load for the power hungry beast. But not all power supplies split their 12v power across multiple rails.

Additionally, you cant just randomly use another port on the PSU as you might just be tapping in to the same rail. Do your research about your power supply and find out which outputs use different 12v rails.

For example, I have an RM850 and have no problem running off a single cable. I have compared between using both one and two cables (I have left it at 2 cables now just for the hell of it). Turns out this PSU uses ONE 12v rail. Therefore all the power can be drawn through one modular PCI-E port.

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Corsair/RM850/2.html : "Since this PSU features a single +12V rail, we do not have anything to comment on about its power distribution. "

So yeah, guess what I am saying is that you need to research your PSU first and find out its configuration and act accordingly.


----------



## Slackaveli

I don't disagree, but even on a single rail it doesnt hurt to split it between two.


----------



## Firk

What NVIDIA driver are you guys using? I'm on 381.89 but it seems some are still using 381.65 / 378.92 which one seems to fair the best at the moment for the 1080 TI? I'm having numerous problems on Overwatch, Rocket League and CS, can't tell if it's internet issues or driver/small overclock related. I can be playing and I then randomly freeze for half a second then play resumes as normal.

Latency stays the same, packet loss still 0, temps/memory etc don't change and the fps stays the same so it's all very odd lol.


----------



## Slackaveli

i am on 382.05, but , honestly, i got least conflicts/ best perf out of 378.92


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> This is why I added this to a troubleshooting section in the first post. It seems to be a common problem. Grab a PSU with a single 12v rail! Glad you are getting better performance now.


Yeah so stupid of me. I just thought since Corsair have a Y cable with the PSU so that should be fine to run.
It seems to work flawlessly now. On another note, I can change my PSU setting to run on single rail mode mode but it's set to multi rail now in the Corsair link software. I don't have much peripherals running from the PSU, just 3 fans off molex, 2 fans off mother board header, 1 off my backup 3.5 HDD and that's it. The rest is my CPU and GPU only.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> Yeah so stupid of me. I just thought since Corsair have a Y cable with the PSU so that should be fine to run.
> It seems to work flawlessly now. On another note, I can change my PSU setting to run on single rail mode mode but it's set to multi rail now in the Corsair link software. I don't have much peripherals running from the PSU, just 3 fans off molex, 2 fans off mother board header, 1 off my backup 3.5 HDD and that's it. The rest is my CPU and GPU only.


One rail or multirail is irrelevant. The reason many people report instability or lack of power running off single PCIe connectors is because of OCP circuits. The manufacturers obviously overspecc their individual cable ports to allow much greater than the spec 150W draw for a single 8 pin link but the limit for most is about 300W (and thats for exceptional units only, expect 200W for the majority). Any more and the PSU considers a short to be happening and trips the overcurrent protections.

If you can fix this issue with simply using 2 PCIe connectors then I don't see a reason why not? outside of maybe cable management neat freaks.


----------



## Zyrou

hey guys
I need help overhere.

I am using my card with OC profile

It says gpu boost clock 1746mhz
but as u can see on picture when i in game as you can see its 2000mhz

is something wrong ?

please i need help i dont have any idea about it now..

auros graphic engine ver 1.07


----------



## Dasboogieman

I just flashed the XOC BIOS on to my gigabyte Aorus. So far no problems but some interesting observations:

1. Supo benches are lower despite unlimited power, I used to get 10248 (2050mhz + 12000 VRAM) but now it only gets 10085 at best with +700 on the VRAM same clocks/voltage
2. Absolutely zero power limitations
3. My fans actually ran faster lol, I suspect there is an additional 800RPM or so left in the fans that Gigabyte didn't tap in to but I dropped 5 degrees lol. Either the fans got more stronk, or theres a GPU temp offset at work for this BIOS

All up, I'm 99% sure the performance delta people are noticing with the XOC BIOS is solely due to the VRAM timings being helluva lot more loose, presumably because frequency is king at LN2 cooling.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Also can someone do an upload of their geberic Aorus (non-extreme) AD F4 BIOS ripped via GPUz suitable for NVFLASH for me?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> 
> 
> hey guys
> I need help overhere.
> 
> I am using my card with OC profile
> 
> It says gpu boost clock 1746mhz
> but as u can see on picture when i in game as you can see its 2000mhz
> 
> is something wrong ?
> 
> please i need help i dont have any idea about it now..
> 
> auros graphic engine ver 1.07


normal to boost well past the rating. that is the gpu boost 3.0 at work. if that is suitable to you (2ghz) , than you are good. Most of us push for higher than that, and we do it NOT with Aorus software but with msi afterburner instead.


----------



## InvisibleMatrix

I'd like to know if there is anyone with this same problem I'm experiencing. Basically I realized a few days ago that when i'm gaming at 4k or higher using dsr for example AC unity and I put vsync on making it work at 30fps constant that my PSU makes a noise like a Tick or crackling of some sort. Once I disable vsync it goes back to normal(so no noise). The reason I'm posting this here is because I went back to my old gpu evga 980ti and there is no noise when doing exactly the same thing so it has to do with the gpu itself. My PSU is an EVGA SuperNova 850w G2. I should clarify that the noise is kinda audible when using speakers and the volume is low and that there is no problem in the sense of the computer shutdown or sparks or anything like that, just a stupid noise that I already hate, thanks.


----------



## FMXP

I got my second Aorus Extreme.

This one actually finished benchmarks in OC Mode. I think we might be getting somewhere. Is it supposed to hit 76C with fan running at 64% speed when set to Auto? Does this sound like a reasonable temperature and fan speed?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FMXP*
> 
> I got my second Aorus Extreme.
> 
> This one actually finished benchmarks in OC Mode. I think we might be getting somewhere. Is it supposed to hit 76C with fan running at 64% speed when set to Auto? Does this sound like a reasonable temperature and fan speed?


The card gets faster the colder you get it. Every 5 degrees dropped yields roughly 13mhz max boost clock stability.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> normal to boost well past the rating. that is the gpu boost 3.0 at work. if that is suitable to you (2ghz) , than you are good. Most of us push for higher than that, and we do it NOT with Aorus software but with msi afterburner instead.


thanks for response

Its good enough for now.
good to know it works good


----------



## RavageTheEarth

13 more days to the last week of May when EK says the block is "supposedly" going to be released. I cannot wait to get this thing under water. I've been playing Mass Effect and that game is so demanding. I'm seeing temps as high as 62C in that game. It pulls up to 1.081v from my 2037 overclock. It's crazy. This card needs water so badly. Every other game I'm running easily at 2063 @ 1.50v no perfcaps. When I try to run that OC on Mass Effect it hard locks the computer. This is an overclock I've been using for weeks since I got the card with no crashing except for Mass Effect. Weird!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 13 more days to the last week of May when EK says the block is "supposedly" going to be released. I cannot wait to get this thing under water. I've been playing Mass Effect and that game is so demanding. I'm seeing temps as high as 62C in that game. It pulls up to 1.081v from my 2037 overclock. It's crazy. This card needs water so badly. Every other game I'm running easily at 2063 @ 1.50v no perfcaps. When I try to run that OC on Mass Effect it hard locks the computer. This is an overclock I've been using for weeks since I got the card with no crashing except for Mass Effect. Weird!


FinFet chips, leakage increases exponentially with temperature (even more so than the oldschool Planar 28nm) which is why Pascal is so sensitive to temperature. Get this chip colder and stability improves a lot.

Getting it colder also reduces power consumption so you will power limit less.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 13 more days to the last week of May when EK says the block is "supposedly" going to be released. I cannot wait to get this thing under water. I've been playing Mass Effect and that game is so demanding. I'm seeing temps as high as 62C in that game. It pulls up to 1.081v from my 2037 overclock. It's crazy. This card needs water so badly. Every other game I'm running easily at 2063 @ 1.50v no perfcaps. When I try to run that OC on Mass Effect it hard locks the computer. This is an overclock I've been using for weeks since I got the card with no crashing except for Mass Effect. Weird!


62C isn't even high lol. 62C is great for being an air cooler, you should have just gotten an FE and watercooled that.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FMXP*
> 
> I got my second Aorus Extreme.
> 
> This one actually finished benchmarks in OC Mode. I think we might be getting somewhere. Is it supposed to hit 76C with fan running at 64% speed when set to Auto? Does this sound like a reasonable temperature and fan speed?


100% fans past 49c is the way to go.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 13 more days to the last week of May when EK says the block is "supposedly" going to be released. I cannot wait to get this thing under water. I've been playing Mass Effect and that game is so demanding. I'm seeing temps as high as 62C in that game. It pulls up to 1.081v from my 2037 overclock. It's crazy. This card needs water so badly. Every other game I'm running easily at 2063 @ 1.50v no perfcaps. When I try to run that OC on Mass Effect it hard locks the computer. This is an overclock I've been using for weeks since I got the card with no crashing except for Mass Effect. Weird!


mass effect has a specific note in teh driver patch notes fro every driver that has come out since ME:A 's release. the game will crash, usually (but not always) with a memory error type message. It's NOT your overclock. It'd happen at stock. Go try that and you'll have the proof.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> 62C isn't even high lol. 62C is great for being an air cooler, you should have just gotten an FE and watercooled that.


62C is high for a watercooler like myself!! I went FE with the 980 Ti's I wanted to try something different this time and I figured I'd only have to wait a month for the block since it was supposed to be released early May, but in true EK fashion, was delayed to the last week for May. I wanted the 375w limit too which is another reason I got this card.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 100% fans past 49c is the way to go.
> mass effect has a specific note in teh driver patch notes fro every driver that has come out since ME:A 's release. the game will crash, usually (but not always) with a memory error type message. It's NOT your overclock. It'd happen at stock. Go try that and you'll have the proof.


I am aware of the memory issues with the 1080 Ti and ME:A, but I don't get any crashing with a lowered overclock. That's the only game I need to lower my OC for. I'm sure it's just that particular game causing instability in my OC.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 62C is high for a watercooler like myself!! I went FE with the 980 Ti's I wanted to try something different this time and I figured I'd only have to wait a month for the block since it was supposed to be released early May, but in true EK fashion, was delayed to the last week for May. I wanted the 375w limit too which is another reason I got this card.


Agreed for watercooling card lol. But 1080 Ti were binned pretty good they are hitting the 2100mhz wall though as all pascal card will hit though :\


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Agreed for watercooling card lol. But 1080 Ti were binned pretty good they are hitting the 2100mhz wall though as all pascal card will hit though :\


Yeah this card is a great overclocker. I'm glad I got a good one. I can run 2025 @ 0.993v and the highest I've gone so far is 2076 @ 1.081v. Can't wait to see how the card performs under water.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yeah this card is a great overclocker. I'm glad I got a good one. I can run 2025 @ 0.993v and the highest I've gone so far is 2076 @ 1.081v. Can't wait to see how the card performs under water.
> 
> I am aware of the memory issues with the 1080 Ti and ME:A, but I don't get any crashing with a lowered overclock. That's the only game I need to lower my OC for. I'm sure it's just that particular game causing instability in my OC.


my card's twin, for sure. same exact #s. right down to temps. But, i go as far as 1.093v at 2088. i can do 2101, but at 2088 at the 1.08v and 1.093v marks works better. then it stays at 2088 until 61c+, then drops to 2076. some games, esp on my 4k monitor, when locked at 60Hz stay under 58c. Like, fifa 17 with mfaa (doubles the effective msaa) on and 2x enhanced on nvidia control panel AND 2x ssaa transparency, plus 4x AA ultra settings , locked at 4k (amazing IQ) still only runs ~ 70% gpu usage and power so my temps are 48c and I stay at 2088. In demanding games, like witcher 3, ME:A, i drop to 2063 or 2050 at the lowest,. I need to put this girl underwater. She'd roll along at 2114 no problem, or more,.

on ME:A, ok, good , you know about the crash.Since you arent crashing at stock and your previous overclock was good in other games, i suspect you can make a correction somewhere near the 1.00v mark , probably 1.012 or 1.037v spots needs a minor correction. the reason ME:A crashes it is it's so intensive it dips farther down the spectrum than most games force. one of those points is probably unstable and had yet to be exposed in other tests.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Also can someone do an upload of their geberic Aorus (non-extreme) AD F4 BIOS ripped via GPUz suitable for NVFLASH for me?


I have the DVI enabled bios version; PM me if you need this type...


----------



## gpvecchi

Do you still suggest to use Afterburner or latest Aorus graphic engine is fine? Thanks!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Do you still suggest to use Afterburner or latest Aorus graphic engine is fine? Thanks!


tbh i havent tried the newest aorus software but last month, aorus software had me as a 2012 card and on msi im a 2088 card, so. yeah.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Do you still suggest to use Afterburner or latest Aorus graphic engine is fine? Thanks!


NONONONO ABORT! Aorus software is pretty bad a lot of people having problems with stability using that crap. Stick to Afterburner!


----------



## gpvecchi

Something lets me think that it's better to stay with Afterburner... Thanks guys!


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Something lets me think that it's better to stay with Afterburner... Thanks guys!


Glad to help, a lot of people were returning their cards for stability problems and the culprit for a lot of people has been using the aorus software.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> my card's twin, for sure. same exact #s. right down to temps. But, i go as far as 1.093v at 2088. i can do 2101, but at 2088 at the 1.08v and 1.093v marks works better. then it stays at 2088 until 61c+, then drops to 2076. some games, esp on my 4k monitor, when locked at 60Hz stay under 58c. Like, fifa 17 with mfaa (doubles the effective msaa) on and 2x enhanced on nvidia control panel AND 2x ssaa transparency, plus 4x AA ultra settings , locked at 4k (amazing IQ) still only runs ~ 70% gpu usage and power so my temps are 48c and I stay at 2088. In demanding games, like witcher 3, ME:A, i drop to 2063 or 2050 at the lowest,. I need to put this girl underwater. She'd roll along at 2114 no problem, or more,.
> 
> on ME:A, ok, good , you know about the crash.Since you arent crashing at stock and your previous overclock was good in other games, i suspect you can make a correction somewhere near the 1.00v mark , probably 1.012 or 1.037v spots needs a minor correction. the reason ME:A crashes it is it's so intensive it dips farther down the spectrum than most games force. one of those points is probably unstable and had yet to be exposed in other tests.


We definitely have nearly identical cards. Once I get this block I'm going to crank up the voltage and really see what it can do. Just imagine being in the 40's at 1.093v







I'm dying over here.



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Do you still suggest to use Afterburner or latest Aorus graphic engine is fine? Thanks!


As everyone else has said. AFTERBURNER!!!


----------



## Douse

@RavageTheEarth I was also getting instability on MS:A with my clocks before the repaste. Now I can play at 2101Mhz @1.093v all day long. It rarely fluctuates below and when it does I don't notice the difference. I am only running at 1440p 60fps though. I imagine if I was running gsync or 4k it would be a different story and it would probably drop the clocks down a bit to compensate for the extra load and heat. A new monitor is on the cards just gotta rustle up $1400









I will probably scale my clocks back a bit when my new monitor arrives to try and maintain a more consistent clock just like Slackaveli.


----------



## Coopiklaani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> @RavageTheEarth I was also getting instability on MS:A with my clocks before the repaste. Now I can play at 2101Mhz @1.093v all day long. It rarely fluctuates below and when it does I don't notice the difference. I am only running at 1440p 60fps though. I imagine if I was running gsync or 4k it would be a different story and it would probably drop the clocks down a bit to compensate for the extra load and heat. A new monitor is on the cards just gotta rustle up $1400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will probably scale my clocks back a bit when my new monitor arrives to try and maintain a more consistent clock just like Slackaveli.


Does it pass FSU stress test? I found it very hard for gtx 1080ti's to pass this stress test. I can run witcher 3, SP 4k, 8k all day long but crash FSU scene 1 looping in 30mins.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> @RavageTheEarth I was also getting instability on MS:A with my clocks before the repaste. Now I can play at 2101Mhz @1.093v all day long. It rarely fluctuates below and when it does I don't notice the difference. I am only running at 1440p 60fps though. I imagine if I was running gsync or 4k it would be a different story and it would probably drop the clocks down a bit to compensate for the extra load and heat. A new monitor is on the cards just gotta rustle up $1400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will probably scale my clocks back a bit when my new monitor arrives to try and maintain a more consistent clock just like Slackaveli.


nice, man. yeah, the re-paste helped a lot. i wish there was another way to get another 5-8c for $12 and 10 minutes of my time. that is a great lil mod.


----------



## FMXP

It really sounds like the stock paste or just the factory application is really bad. I don't know why Gigabyte thinks they can do this with $750 video cards and get away with it.


----------



## Douse

Yeah and I thought my paste job was good. Was really blown away by the drop in temps. And the crazy thing about these cards is the noticable improvement in performance once those temps get down. Gaming at 55c is an odd experience with air cooling hahaha

The application seemed fine, I think it is just average thermal paste.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FMXP*
> 
> It really sounds like the stock paste or just the factory application is really bad. I don't know why Gigabyte thinks they can do this with $750 video cards and get away with it.


every company does that. a by hand application, with thermal grizzly as well, is just better. assembly line production doesnt allow for by hand pasting. I guess they could be using thermal grizzly kryonaut, but, they may not even know how much better it would make their product.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah and I thought my paste job was good. Was really blown away by the drop in temps. And the crazy thing about these cards is the noticable improvement in performance once those temps get down. Gaming at 55c is an odd experience with air cooling hahaha
> 
> The application seemed fine, I think it is just average thermal paste.


How much were you getting? I got GC Gelid Extreme on the way, trades blows with the kryonaut couldn't justify spending more than double for the same performance.


----------



## UdoG

What is the best method to apply the paste - cross / blob, or cross with 4 blob's (see EKWB description)?
Or spread the paste with a credit card?


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> How much were you getting? I got GC Gelid Extreme on the way, trades blows with the kryonaut couldn't justify spending more than double for the same performance.


Did a big post on my before and after here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/730#post_26072681
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> What is the best method to apply the paste - cross / blob, or cross with 4 blob's (see EKWB description)?
> Or spread the paste with a credit card?


Recommendation from Thermal Grizzly is the spread method, and is backed up with the applicator that comes with when you buy it. You don't use the pea method because the GPU is rectangular. Upon saying that you could use the line method in my opinion. Just gotta make sure it covers the whole chip at the end of the day

EDIT: LOL "pee method". I have since corrected


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> What is the best method to apply the paste - cross / blob, or cross with 4 blob's (see EKWB description)?
> Or spread the paste with a credit card?


i usually do cross w/ 4 blobs, so i know that works. this time i spread it. Kryonaut has a great applicator tip


----------



## gabenator

Anyone else have this weird clicking sound on their fan? It started completely randomly this morning but I didn't have a chance to open my case and check because I had to head to work. I know it was the GPU fan because when I put it it at 0, the clicking stopped. Could possibly be a loose cable.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabenator*
> 
> Anyone else have this weird clicking sound on their fan? It started completely randomly this morning but I didn't have a chance to open my case and check because I had to head to work. I know it was the GPU fan because when I put it it at 0, the clicking stopped. Could possibly be a loose cable.


Some part of the frame must be clipping the fan you could probably bend it back to place.


----------



## gabenator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Some part of the frame must be clipping the fan you could probably bend it back to place.


Really? How obnoxious. Almost wishing I got an Asus or MSI instead.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabenator*
> 
> Really? How obnoxious. Almost wishing I got an Asus or MSI instead.


Or maybe could be a cable, either way should be easy fix. Those issues pop out a lot on the 1080 Xtreme when the design for this cooler was first released. From shipping most likely you wouldn't believe how they treat the boxes on shipping.


----------



## spidermind79

Hey, i buyed the card from amazon.es and followed guide to apply grizzly kryonaut for temps, it drops 7-8 c , but i noticed that sometimes when i cross internet with firefox , on certain sites at random the vga freeze, mouse is blocked and system go so slow, can it be the voltage? happend before , i opened gpuz and mhz of core and memory was -- no number, and missing some infos like voltage, so now i'm trying to use that powerlimit i saw pages back, so at start it launch to keep voltages up, what do u think? thanks.

Edit: 5 minutes ago when i was watching a movie, system freeze then bsod with "kmode exception not handled" referring to nvlddmkm.sys , seems lately nvidia drivers is having some issues


----------



## gabenator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Or maybe could be a cable, either way should be easy fix. Those issues pop out a lot on the 1080 Xtreme when the design for this cooler was first released. From shipping most likely you wouldn't believe how they treat the boxes on shipping.


Okay well as long as it's an easy fix I can't be too mad. It's a great OCer so I'd rather not return it.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabenator*
> 
> Okay well as long as it's an easy fix I can't be too mad. It's a great OCer so I'd rather not return it.


Yeah not a big fan or the shroud being like aluminum because it can bend. But this card is so quiet and cool at gaming


----------



## Slackaveli

I may be in the minority, but I love the look of the card, love the power limit, love it's overclockability, love it's sound profile, and I've NEVER had an air cooled card run this cool... and it's 3584 cores at 2088Mhz







.... wow! yeah, I had to re-paste her. But for $719, i don't mind the extra $12 lol. for a 48c (Fifa 17 8xmsaa 4k ultra/60Hz) to 62c (Full ultra Mass Effect Andromeda1440p/144Hz / Ghost Recon Wildlands ultra 4k/60Hz) on air card!

Aorus 1080Ti is Bae


----------



## Tsahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InvisibleMatrix*
> 
> I'd like to know if there is anyone with this same problem I'm experiencing. Basically I realized a few days ago that when i'm gaming at 4k or higher using dsr for example AC unity and I put vsync on making it work at 30fps constant that my PSU makes a noise like a Tick or crackling of some sort. Once I disable vsync it goes back to normal(so no noise). The reason I'm posting this here is because I went back to my old gpu evga 980ti and there is no noise when doing exactly the same thing so it has to do with the gpu itself. My PSU is an EVGA SuperNova 850w G2. I should clarify that the noise is kinda audible when using speakers and the volume is low and that there is no problem in the sense of the computer shutdown or sparks or anything like that, just a stupid noise that I already hate, thanks.


sounds like somehting i experienced b4 i got my 1080ti. i was running on gigabye g1 gaming 970 in SLI. this sound is probbably your PSU not having enough power for the card. the fact u are using a 850w PSU, wich is enough for this card tells me its either your PSU is old and the components are too digraded to deliver the power the card needs (especially if u are overclocking it, or overclocking your CPU and using XMP profile to overclock your ram), or its either u have connected the card wrong and the PSU does not have enough power to throw at the card thorugh the 12v rail . make sure u are connecting the pci- e cables to the card and not using molex adapters. if u are using a molex adapter to the 2nd 8 pin, make sure u connect the 6 pin PCI-E to 1 connector and 2 diffrent cables to the 2nd connector, assuming your PSU have more than 1 12v rail.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> I may be in the minority, but I love the look of the card, love the power limit, love it's overclockability, love it's sound profile, and I've NEVER had an air cooled card run this cool... and it's 3584 cores at 2088Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... wow! yeah, I had to re-paste her. But for $719, i don't mind the extra $12 lol. for a 48c (Fifa 17 8xmsaa 4k ultra/60Hz) to 62c (Full ultra Mass Effect Andromeda1440p/144Hz / Ghost Recon Wildlands ultra 4k/60Hz) on air card!
> 
> Aorus 1080Ti is Bae


Never said I hated the look







it's the sexiest of all, the others with the spacing on the 3 fans look ugly. Second best for me would be the 1080 Ti FTW3 ICx.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> @RavageTheEarth I was also getting instability on MS:A with my clocks before the repaste. Now I can play at 2101Mhz @1.093v all day long. It rarely fluctuates below and when it does I don't notice the difference. I am only running at 1440p 60fps though. I imagine if I was running gsync or 4k it would be a different story and it would probably drop the clocks down a bit to compensate for the extra load and heat. A new monitor is on the cards just gotta rustle up $1400
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will probably scale my clocks back a bit when my new monitor arrives to try and maintain a more consistent clock just like Slackaveli.


Yeah I'm running an Acer Predator 1440p 144hz G-Sync so there is that extra load and heat generated. That's a great card you have. I need to lower my OC when playing ME:A. What are you temps like> Y=====================
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> I may be in the minority, but I love the look of the card, love the power limit, love it's overclockability, love it's sound profile, and I've NEVER had an air cooled card run this cool... and it's 3584 cores at 2088Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... wow! yeah, I had to re-paste her. But for $719, i don't mind the extra $12 lol. for a 48c (Fifa 17 8xmsaa 4k ultra/60Hz) to 62c (Full ultra Mass Effect Andromeda1440p/144Hz / Ghost Recon Wildlands ultra 4k/60Hz) on air card!
> 
> Aorus 1080Ti is Bae


True that man! I upped the voltage a bit and am able to run 2076 @ 1.091v in ME:A now. Still getting those stupid device removed errors every once in a while though. Really wish I could play without worrying about saving every chance I get since I know it's going to crash at some point. For some reason it's usually during in-game cut-scenes. Once I get this baby under water and try to hit 2100 I'm expecting a lot more stability. Once the card hits 60C I feel that stability starts to be compromised. Going to be so nice hovering in the low 40's under load. My EVGA 980 Ti ran At 42-43C max load under water. This Aorus runs cooler on air than that did so I'm wondering if it's going to be even cooler than that was. All I know is that I'm hilariously running an 80mm thick 360mm rad, a 45mm thick 420mm rad and a 30mm thick 240mm rad that is all cooling my CPU. Just a couple more weeks and then I can finally put my side panel back on since I had to unscrew my reservoir and pump to get the card to fit in the case.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yeah I'm running an Acer Predator 1440p 144hz G-Sync so there is that extra load and heat generated. That's a great card you have. I need to lower my OC when playing ME:A. What are you temps like> Y=====================
> True that man! I upped the voltage a bit and am able to run 2076 @ 1.091v in ME:A now. Still getting those stupid device removed errors every once in a while though. Really wish I could play without worrying about saving every chance I get since I know it's going to crash at some point. For some reason it's usually during in-game cut-scenes. Once I get this baby under water and try to hit 2100 I'm expecting a lot more stability. Once the card hits 60C I feel that stability starts to be compromised. Going to be so nice hovering in the low 40's under load. My EVGA 980 Ti ran At 42-43C max load under water. This Aorus runs cooler on air than that did so I'm wondering if it's going to be even cooler than that was. All I know is that I'm hilariously running an 80mm thick 360mm rad, a 45mm thick 420mm rad and a 30mm thick 240mm rad that is all cooling my CPU. Just a couple more weeks and then I can finally put my side panel back on since I had to unscrew my reservoir and pump to get the card to fit in the case.


that cpu is like the queen; super pampered.

Gonna be a crazy good card when you get your block, bro.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Never said I hated the look
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> it's the sexiest of all, the others with the spacing on the 3 fans look ugly. Second best for me would be the 1080 Ti FTW3 ICx.


i know, i didnt quote you or anything, was just sayin. And those are my favorite 2 as well.


----------



## gabenator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Yeah not a big fan or the shroud being like aluminum because it can bend. But this card is so quiet and cool at gaming


My second guess was right. It was just the connector for the fan on the side of my case touching the card.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gabenator*
> 
> My second guess was right. It was just the connector for the fan on the side of my case touching the card.


Whew great to hear that bud!


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> I may be in the minority, but I love the look of the card, love the power limit, love it's overclockability, love it's sound profile, and I've NEVER had an air cooled card run this cool... and it's 3584 cores at 2088Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... wow! yeah, I had to re-paste her. But for $719, i don't mind the extra $12 lol. for a 48c (Fifa 17 8xmsaa 4k ultra/60Hz) to 62c (Full ultra Mass Effect Andromeda1440p/144Hz / Ghost Recon Wildlands ultra 4k/60Hz) on air card!
> 
> Aorus 1080Ti is Bae


Yeah it is amazing for an air cooled card. That cooler is truly something to behold.


----------



## FMXP

I have a tube of Noctua NT-H1 laying around, how does it compare to fancy things like Kryonaut? Do you guys think it is worthwhile to repaste if I use NT-H1?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FMXP*
> 
> I have a tube of Noctua NT-H1 laying around, how does it compare to fancy things like Kryonaut? Do you guys think it is worthwhile to repaste if I use NT-H1?


Similar enough performance. Though H1-h1 is not as durable, this means you may have to repaste in half a year or so.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FMXP*
> 
> I have a tube of Noctua NT-H1 laying around, how does it compare to fancy things like Kryonaut? Do you guys think it is worthwhile to repaste if I use NT-H1?


They NT-H1 is great paste probably within 1C warmer difference with the kryonaut.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Finaly,

after 2 weeks, some e-mails (stock-blah blah from the vendor and some complaints by me) my exchange card arrived today, and it seems to work.









I still used only the (debatable) AORUS-Tool today, just to check if this card will run stable with the advertised "game" and "OC" clockspeeds without any hichups or crashes, and it does flawlessly! However, in "OC" mode it still gets a bit hot with 78°C in certain games and benchmarks, so i'll defintaly fiddle arround somewhat with the fancurve just to get better temps and maybe more MHz.

On the weekend i'll ban the AORUS tool and start playing arround with MSI Afterburner, i'm kinda eager to see where i can go with this one. I loosly remember Slackaveli having postet a very nice fan- and power/voltage curve for Aorus Xtremes, but OMG has this thread exploded since i last checked. So if you could be so kind to post it again @Slackaveli, id appreciate it.


----------



## UdoG

Did you had trouble with afterburner too? Or only with the OC mode of the Aorus tool?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Finaly,
> 
> after 2 weeks, some e-mails (stock-blah blah from the vendor and some complaints by me) my exchange card arrived today, and it seems to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still used only the (debatable) AORUS-Tool today, just to check if this card will run stable with the advertised "game" and "OC" clockspeeds without any hichups or crashes, and it does flawlessly! However, in "OC" mode it still gets a bit hot with 78°C in certain games and benchmarks, so i'll defintaly fiddle arround somewhat with the fancurve just to get better temps and maybe more MHz.
> 
> On the weekend i'll ban the AORUS tool and start playing arround with MSI Afterburner, i'm kinda eager to see where i can go with this one. I loosly remember Slackaveli having postet a very nice fan- and power/voltage curve for Aorus Xtremes, but OMG has this thread exploded since i last checked. So if you could be so kind to post it again @Slackaveli, id appreciate it.



the important part is hitting 100% by 48c.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Did you had trouble with afterburner too? Or only with the OC mode of the Aorus tool?


My first card just had a realy bad GPU i guess,

when i didnt' use any tool and ran it out of the box (which is the same as choosing "game" mode in Aorus), the card would run games or benchmarks for 2-3 minutes before crashing, essentially everytime the GPU hit 69-70°C. When i chose "OC" mode, it would crash immediatly on everything - first screen rendered, crash. Only the "silent" mode, which puts the card at FE clockspeeds, ran without any crashes. I tried setting the same clockspeeds with MSI Afterburner, but it had the exact same effect, so i RMA'd it.

However my retailer, instead of exchanging the card right away (RMA was opened less then 24 hours after delivery), decided to send it in to Gigabyte and don't even inform me of it. When the RMA-status didn't change after 5 days, i politely asked via e-mail why it was taking so long. I got a canned answer 3 days later with a lot of blah blah and that, due to sending it to Gigabyte, the RMA could take 2-4 weeks. I was not very amused about that and wrote a fitting answer ... formal and polite, but on the spot. That was 2 days ago. New card arrived today








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 
> the important part is hitting 100% by 48c.


Thanks @Slackaveli
Wasn'tthere a way to set special voltage point for certain clockspeeds? I think i saw someone post a good starting-curve for that, too?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> My first card just had a realy bad GPU i guess,
> 
> when i didnt' use any tool and ran it out of the box (which is the same as choosing "game" mode in Aorus), the card would run games or benchmarks for 2-3 minutes before crashing, essentially everytime the GPU hit 69-70°C. When i chose "OC" mode, it would crash immediatly on everything - first screen rendered, crash. Only the "silent" mode, which puts the card at FE clockspeeds, ran without any crashes. I tried setting the same clockspeeds with MSI Afterburner, but it had the exact same effect, so i RMA'd it.
> 
> However my retailer, instead of exchanging the card right away (RMA was opened less then 24 hours after delivery), decided to send it in to Gigabyte and don't even inform me of it. When the RMA-status didn't change after 5 days, i politely asked via e-mail why it was taking so long. I got a canned answer 3 days later with a lot of blah blah and that, due to sending it to Gigabyte, the RMA could take 2-4 weeks. I was not very amused about that and wrote a fitting answer ... formal and polite, but on the spot. That was 2 days ago. New card arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks @Slackaveli
> Wasn'tthere a way to set special voltage point for certain clockspeeds? I think i saw someone post a good starting-curve for that, too?


i can show you my curve, or one of them, for reference.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i can show you my curve, or one of them, for reference.


Ah, thats it! Thanks again


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Ah, thats it! Thanks again


no problemo, mate.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Finaly,
> 
> after 2 weeks, some e-mails (stock-blah blah from the vendor and some complaints by me) my exchange card arrived today, and it seems to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I still used only the (debatable) AORUS-Tool today, just to check if this card will run stable with the advertised "game" and "OC" clockspeeds without any hichups or crashes, and it does flawlessly! However, in "OC" mode it still gets a bit hot with 78°C in certain games and benchmarks, so i'll defintaly fiddle arround somewhat with the fancurve just to get better temps and maybe more MHz.
> 
> On the weekend i'll ban the AORUS tool and start playing arround with MSI Afterburner, i'm kinda eager to see where i can go with this one. I loosly remember Slackaveli having postet a very nice fan- and power/voltage curve for Aorus Xtremes, but OMG has this thread exploded since i last checked. So if you could be so kind to post it again @Slackaveli, id appreciate it.


Good stuff mate. Happy to hear it.







Yeah it is a tad hot and the aggressive fan profile will help. Ultimately a repaste will be the best option for you if want those temps down and those clocks up.

How is your card boosting?

Check out my post about my repaste if you are interested: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/730#post_26072681


----------



## Katopill

Hi, a while ago I was running The Witcher 3 at 1440p on my standard AORUS 1080 Ti and I noticed the game was lagging horribly after a couple minutes. I'm running on Silent Mode, so I opened the AORUS Graphics Engine to change the clock and see if that would help.Turns out I must have closed the AORUS Graphics Engine process earlier, which apparently turned the GPU fans off and caused my card to thermal throttle. After I opened AGE up again, the fans were at full speed for several second. I don't know what the temps were, since I wasn't even aware it had overheated until after the fans stopped blasting and I put two and two together. Anyone know if this could have any negative effects? Things seem to run fine now but I'm worried I may have reduced the lifespan of my card.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Katopill*
> 
> Hi, a while ago I was running The Witcher 3 at 1440p on my standard AORUS 1080 Ti and I noticed the game was lagging horribly after a couple minutes. I'm running on Silent Mode, so I opened the AORUS Graphics Engine to change the clock and see if that would help.Turns out I must have closed the AORUS Graphics Engine process earlier, which apparently turned the GPU fans off and caused my card to thermal throttle. After I opened AGE up again, the fans were at full speed for several second. I don't know what the temps were, since I wasn't even aware it had overheated until after the fans stopped blasting and I put two and two together. Anyone know if this could have any negative effects? Things seem to run fine now but I'm worried I may have reduced the lifespan of my card.


well, there is a common theme here. #UninstallAGE


----------



## Douse

LOL agreed Slackaveli. @Katopill I wouldn't be too concerned. It would have throttled down significantly and reached thermal shutdown before any real damage was done. On top of that, the driver probably would have crashed before the 105c (I think??) limit.

I would say sustained use while overheating may, MAY cause an issue in the long run. However, since it was only for a little bit it should be fine. Chips these days have pretty good protection.

If you are concerned, run some bench marks etc and make sure it is still stable.


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Katopill*
> 
> Hi, a while ago I was running The Witcher 3 at 1440p on my standard AORUS 1080 Ti and I noticed the game was lagging horribly after a couple minutes. I'm running on Silent Mode, so I opened the AORUS Graphics Engine to change the clock and see if that would help.Turns out I must have closed the AORUS Graphics Engine process earlier, which apparently turned the GPU fans off and caused my card to thermal throttle. After I opened AGE up again, the fans were at full speed for several second. I don't know what the temps were, since I wasn't even aware it had overheated until after the fans stopped blasting and I put two and two together. Anyone know if this could have any negative effects? Things seem to run fine now but I'm worried I may have reduced the lifespan of my card.


Your card throttling is not a concern at all.
The reason for the lag is the fact that the dumbass Aorus Software takes up 20% CPU usage in the background.
I have personally have experienced this and the best way is to uninstall that cancerous software.
There is no damage to your card. Do not stress yourself out.

Thermal Throttle is designed as a safety net so do not worry. Lifespan of the card is not affected.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Good stuff mate. Happy to hear it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah it is a tad hot and the aggressive fan profile will help. Ultimately a repaste will be the best option for you if want those temps down and those clocks up.
> 
> How is your card boosting?
> 
> Check out my post about my repaste if you are interested: http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/730#post_26072681


He,

yeah i was thinking about repasting, but not before the weekend. I'll just thorougly test the card to its out-of-the-box limits first to see if any issues might arrise. Once i am confident i got a reliable sample this time (within the advertised clockspeeds), i'll start fiddling and tweaking the Herz out of it









Good thing Grizzly delivery costs to me are low, their products are expensive enough (but undoubtedly goood).
So in the next 2 weeks i guess i'll order some Kryonaut and pads from them
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Katopill*
> 
> Hi, a while ago I was running The Witcher 3 at 1440p on my standard AORUS 1080 Ti and I noticed the game was lagging horribly after a couple minutes. I'm running on Silent Mode, so I opened the AORUS Graphics Engine to change the clock and see if that would help.Turns out I must have closed the AORUS Graphics Engine process earlier, which apparently turned the GPU fans off and caused my card to thermal throttle. After I opened AGE up again, the fans were at full speed for several second. I don't know what the temps were, since I wasn't even aware it had overheated until after the fans stopped blasting and I put two and two together. Anyone know if this could have any negative effects? Things seem to run fine now but I'm worried I may have reduced the lifespan of my card.


The same thing happened with my first card on one of my later tests with silent mode. I'm not sure though if it was due to AGE shuting down, or generaly just having a bad fan-curve. I was playing "Subnautica" on silent mode, when it startet to studder as well. When i checked, the fans wherent moving even though the card was over 80°C ....


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> the dumbass Aorus Software takes up 20% CPU usage in the background.
> I have personally have experienced this and the best way is to uninstall that cancerous software.


LOL. true story.


----------



## c0ld

Kinda bummed I can't control the leds without that crappy software, I want to put red ligths with breathing effect to match what my Aer RGB fans and hue+ led strips are doing in my case


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Kinda bummed I can't control the leds without that crappy software, I want to put red ligths with breathing effect to match what my Aer RGB fans and hue+ led strips are doing in my case


could you unplug the led in the gpu and route it to your rgb controller? i mean, you could run in in background but the 20% cpu hit is brutal unless you are in 4k.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Kinda bummed I can't control the leds without that crappy software, I want to put red ligths with breathing effect to match what my Aer RGB fans and hue+ led strips are doing in my case


Yeah i was annoyed too. You would think a company like Gigabyte would have the necessary r&d and quality control to release a properly functioning piece of software. Makes me rage since I have a dev background.


----------



## oysta

very weird on mine the aorus software is like 0.2%


----------



## satinghostrider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oysta*
> 
> very weird on mine the aorus software is like 0.2%


I have uninstalled mine which was V1.05 last I checked. So any newer ones may have fixed the problem. Unless you expressly need to change the LED lights, I'd honestly stick to Afterburner. It is just way more simpler for your life.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *satinghostrider*
> 
> I have uninstalled mine which was V1.05 last I checked. So any newer ones may have fixed the problem. Unless you expressly need to change the LED lights, I'd honestly stick to Afterburner. It is just way more simpler for your life.


Or just disconnect the LED lights and get more core power like me


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Or just disconnect the LED lights and get more core power like me


FEEEEEL THAT EXTRA 2 WATTSSSSSSSS


----------



## Slackaveli

i actually like the default lights so Im golden.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> FEEEEEL THAT EXTRA 2 WATTSSSSSSSS


2w more than what you had before....werf.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 2w more than what you had before....werf.


Cant argue with that







I like the LED's as well so ill leave em


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Just got mine after returning two founders editions and one MSI gaming x. I wanted to water cool the founders with an EVGA aio kit but it was taking a while to go on sale so I returened the founders for a gaming X. Gaming X had bizzare issues where it would drop to 40% power limit on stock settings. Got another founders to try my hand at aio water cooling. This card only topped out at 1950mhz and besides hating the light pump buzz at idle, the power limit would throttle the card regardless of temperatures. I'm at 1440p 144hz so I go over 120% often in games like Witcher 3 or if i use DSR. I refuse to shunt mod to get the performance of a card that already exists..

So here I am with the extreme gaming Aorus, 2035 at 1.5 volts in most games, and 2012 in Witcher 3 due to the power usage going as high as 140% in some scenes. I can't imagine people playing at 4k with a founders without modding it. I'm finally happy with a stable and powerful card. I'm getting about 75C in Witcher 3 (granted its hot as HELL in NJ these last few days) Will kryonaut help bring me back down a bin or two into teh 60s?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> i actually like the default lights so Im golden.


That's cause you a basic rgb hoe








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Yeah i was annoyed too. You would think a company like Gigabyte would have the necessary r&d and quality control to release a properly functioning piece of software. Makes me rage since I have a dev background.


Same here it would be something real simple to do really.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> That's cause you a basic rgb hoe
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Same here it would be something real simple to do really.


lol. well, it's my first ever rgb


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Just got mine after returning two founders editions and one MSI gaming x. I wanted to water cool the founders with an EVGA aio kit but it was taking a while to go on sale so I returened the founders for a gaming X. Gaming X had bizzare issues where it would drop to 40% power limit on stock settings. Got another founders to try my hand at aio water cooling. This card only topped out at 1950mhz and besides hating the light pump buzz at idle, the power limit would throttle the card regardless of temperatures. I'm at 1440p 144hz so I go over 120% often in games like Witcher 3 or if i use DSR. I refuse to shunt mod to get the performance of a card that already exists..
> 
> So here I am with the extreme gaming Aorus, 2035 at 1.5 volts in most games, and 2012 in Witcher 3 due to the power usage going as high as 140% in some scenes. I can't imagine people playing at 4k with a founders without modding it. I'm finally happy with a stable and powerful card. I'm getting about 75C in Witcher 3 (granted its hot as HELL in NJ these last few days) Will kryonaut help bring me back down a bin or two into teh 60s?


yeah, man. it'll drop you 5-8c


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> could you unplug the led in the gpu and route it to your rgb controller? i mean, you could run in in background but the 20% cpu hit is brutal unless you are in 4k.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> lol. well, it's my first ever rgb


Hopefully it was that easy but not possible in my case since it's all controlled via the hue+ and CAM software.

Hahaha it's all good! Same here with rgb but it got old after 1 day for me


----------



## ninjames

Hey guys, I bought a new build featuring this card a few weeks ago. I'm not super capable when it comes to the highly technical side of things -- I never messed with my boost clock or anything like that. But I'm getting some pretty serious crashing issues while gaming. And I've spent around 40-50 man hours trying to figure it out before someone on another forum pointed me to this thread.

I've summarized my issues in various threads, getting the most help at Toms Hardware here. But a post with the most up-to-date information on my situation can be found here.

Do you guys think the culprit could be this card? And if so, what are ways I can test that? Or should I just RMA it -- or even return it for a refund and buy something like the EVGA FTW3 or something else?


----------



## Elefantito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjames*
> 
> Hey guys, I bought a new build featuring this card a few weeks ago. I'm not super capable when it comes to the highly technical side of things -- I never messed with my boost clock or anything like that. But I'm getting some pretty serious crashing issues while gaming. And I've spent around 40-50 man hours trying to figure it out before someone on another forum pointed me to this thread.
> 
> I've summarized my issues in various threads, getting the most help at Toms Hardware here. But a post with the most up-to-date information on my situation can be found here.
> 
> Do you guys think the culprit could be this card? And if so, what are ways I can test that? Or should I just RMA it -- or even return it for a refund and buy something like the EVGA FTW3 or something else?


Are you using the Aorus Engine software ?


----------



## ninjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elefantito*
> 
> Are you using the Aorus Engine software ?


I'm my seven or eight or 15 reinstallations of Windows, I have tried using the Aorus software, tried not using it, tried using MSI Afterburner, etc. I note my custom fan curves NEVER save in Aorus and my early testing of this issue revolved around me setting curves to try and determine if 70C was the culprit. It seemed like it was, and then ti wasn't. I don't know much about boost modes and overclocking and am a huge noob compared to all of you but I finally feel like I might be in the right place to figure this out if ya'll can have some patience with me.

tldr; crash happens whether I have Aorus installed, Afterburner installed or neither installed. I posted some HWInfo logs in the second link in my first post.


----------



## Slackaveli

actually sounds like you have one of the duds, bro. there were a few. can you rma easily? Did you buy with paypal or a credit card?


----------



## ninjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> actually sounds like you have one of the duds, bro. there were a few. can you rma easily? Did you buy with paypal or a credit card?


I was outside of Newegg's return window but I talked to support and was able to get them to allow me to return it. Just boxed it up. I hope that was the issue


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ninjames*
> 
> I was outside of Newegg's return window but I talked to support and was able to get them to allow me to return it. Just boxed it up. I hope that was the issue


That's good news. Hope the next one will be a golden chip. Seems like the extreme weren't binned gpus so it's the same silicon lottery add any other chip


----------



## QuietKungFu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> lol. well, it's my first ever rgb


If you still have the software installed, you can start it up, set the rgb color/effect that you want, and then uninstall the software. Once you set it, the card should remember the settings and leave it there. At least that has been my experience. My Soundblaster card has a red led, so I set the 1080ti to that color just for uniformity. Then I let the NZXT X52 do funky stuff with color effects. It's just a simple effect, but I like it.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quick question: CLU or Kryonaut to replace the stock thermal paste?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Quick question: CLU or Kryonaut to replace the stock thermal paste?


Depends on how much balls you have. I used CLU (or more specifically Conductonaut) and the temp drops were dope. Kryo would work too. Just make sure if you use CLU that you apply a thick layer of nail varnish on the caps surrounding the core.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Depends on how much balls you have. I used CLU (or more specifically Conductonaut) and the temp drops were dope. Kryo would work too. Just make sure if you use CLU that you apply a thick layer of nail varnish on the caps surrounding the core.


I have semi balls lol. I have liquid electric tape, would that work to seal the caps around the core?


----------



## ninjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> That's good news. Hope the next one will be a golden chip. Seems like the extreme weren't binned gpus so it's the same silicon lottery add any other chip


Yeah I'm getting refund in store credit so I'm torn between buying another one of these or going with something else, like the EVGA FTW3. I don't mind setting up custom fan curves and stuff but I also don't want to have to babysit my GPU and run it in a very specific situation to make it work right, like some people have had to do in this thread. It seems like such a great card when you get a good one, though. I was loving my temps with no extra cooling outside my two case fans.


----------



## Emmanuel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> I may be in the minority, but I love the look of the card, love the power limit, love it's overclockability, love it's sound profile, and I've NEVER had an air cooled card run this cool... and it's 3584 cores at 2088Mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .... wow! yeah, I had to re-paste her. But for $719, i don't mind the extra $12 lol. for a 48c (Fifa 17 8xmsaa 4k ultra/60Hz) to 62c (Full ultra Mass Effect Andromeda1440p/144Hz / Ghost Recon Wildlands ultra 4k/60Hz) on air card!
> 
> Aorus 1080Ti is Bae


What happened to the 2100Mhz?









Figured I'd give an update. I exchanged my Aorus because of unbearable fan rattle (my reason for the return) and the fact that it kinda sucked at overclocking. The new card I got is much better, I can actually bench at over 2100MHz and the temperature becomes my limiting factor.

First thing I did when I got the card was to take it apart and apply some Kryonaut. The stock thermal paste job wasn't too bad but it was spilled all around the die which always worries me that something might get shorted! The card came with the F4 BIOS judging from the 150% power limit.

Right now if I set my clocks to 2113MHz at 1.094v, it'll drop to 2100MHz in games like Wolfenstein and down to 2088MHz in BF1. BF1 does bring my temps up into the mid 70s unfortunately which is why EK needs to get moving on releasing those blocks. In overall, I no longer regret having bought an Aorus and once I get this card under water, it looks like I may have some really nice OC potential!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> What happened to the 2100Mhz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Figured I'd give an update. I exchanged my Aorus because of unbearable fan rattle (my reason for the return) and the fact that it kinda sucked at overclocking. The new card I got is much better, I can actually bench at over 2100MHz and the temperature becomes my limiting factor.
> 
> First thing I did when I got the card was to take it apart and apply some Kryonaut. The stock thermal paste job wasn't too bad but it was spilled all around the die which always worries me that something might get shorted! The card came with the F4 BIOS judging from the 150% power limit.
> 
> Right now if I set my clocks to 2113MHz at 1.094v, it'll drop to 2100MHz in games like Wolfenstein and down to 2088MHz in BF1. BF1 does bring my temps up into the mid 70s unfortunately which is why EK needs to get moving on releasing those blocks. In overall, I no longer regret having bought an Aorus and once I get this card under water, it looks like I may have some really nice OC potential!


it goes away after 48c lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *QuietKungFu*
> 
> If you still have the software installed, you can start it up, set the rgb color/effect that you want, and then uninstall the software. Once you set it, the card should remember the settings and leave it there. At least that has been my experience. My Soundblaster card has a red led, so I set the 1080ti to that color just for uniformity. Then I let the NZXT X52 do funky stuff with color effects. It's just a simple effect, but I like it.


i wondered if that would work.


----------



## Emmanuel

Lol that'll be hard to hold even with a waterblock!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Lol that'll be hard to hold even with a waterblock!


yeah, man. i have accepted that anything over 2050 is golden. now I dont chase 2100.


----------



## Emmanuel

By your definition I now have a golden one lol. Can't wait to see what the card can do when the temperatures are kept around 50.


----------



## Slackaveli

really, on AIR... anything of 2Ghz is lovely and 2050+ at load after hitting running temps... that really is golden.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> yeah, man. i have accepted that anything over 2050 is golden. now I dont chase 2100.


Same here. 2100 is not an important goal to me. Low temps IS!! Next week is the 4th week of May (I think?) so hopefully they will finally be releasing the block. I'm stable in Mass Effect at 2050 with max temps now reaching 66C since it's been close to 100 degress F out the last few days. Every other game holds 2076 no problem. I haven't had any crashing since the hotfix they released yesterday which is very good! I can't wait to see how these cards perform under water. I'm ordering it straight from EK even though I'm in the states I'm going to pay the $50 for UPS Urgent shipping lol


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Same here. 2100 is not an important goal to me. Low temps IS!! Next week is the 4th week of May (I think?) so hopefully they will finally be releasing the block. I'm stable in Mass Effect at 2050 with max temps now reaching 66C since it's been close to 100 degress F out the last few days. Every other game holds 2076 no problem. I haven't had any crashing since the hotfix they released yesterday which is very good! I can't wait to see how these cards perform under water. I'm ordering it straight from EK even though I'm in the states I'm going to pay the $50 for UPS Urgent shipping lol


hotfix you say? good, because i'v had the damn 144Hz monitor bug where i wont downclock lower than 1500Mhz for a week now and none of my normal tricks are working. hope it's 'hotfix'd'


----------



## oysta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> hotfix you say? good, because i'v had the damn 144Hz monitor bug where i wont downclock lower than 1500Mhz for a week now and none of my normal tricks are working. hope it's 'hotfix'd'


Make sure your GeForce experience instant replay function is off, if you have this on your card will not downclock


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oysta*
> 
> Make sure your GeForce experience instant replay function is off, if you have this on your card will not downclock


You can force downclock with nvidia inspector. But it does have anomalies like a weird slowdown when you first boot a game


----------



## HairyWombat

Been lurking here since the start and was one of the unfortunate peeps to get a dud.... Would not run in any mode other than Silent.

Luckily enough I was able to get an RMA from my supplier, so two weeks after sending it away and having to use a potato as a replacement GPU (a mighty powerful GT630) the new one finally arrive yesterday.

Plonked it in, fired up AB, fiddled with sliders and setting for a while, ran a bazillion Superposition Benchmarks and managed to get the following:



Certainly a happy chappy with that one.

It spends most of it's time bouncing between 2062 and 2100, probably sits at 2075/88 most of the time. Seems to be mostly stable at 2100 when I can get the voltage to stay in the 1.093v setting, but, that seems to bounce all over the place as well.

As my old GPU was under water, I'm also waiting eagerly for EK to drop their block, will be very pleasant to get this thing under water.


----------



## Emmanuel

That's me holding 2100MHz and no OC on the VRAM.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Heya,

i fiddled around a bit with MSI AB today!

First of i copied the 3 settings from the AGE 1:1 into MSI AB and all 3 modes are working fine, with OC-mode requiring a higher powertarget. I used a fan-curve close to what @slackaveli used, but mine runs at 10% always until 33°C, then goes up quite linear to 100% at 49°C. I didn't dare to touch the voltage yet, it's not even unlocked in AB . I first want to see what the card can do and, even more important, get used to MSI AB and its handling. My new card came with the F3 bios.

For anyone interrested, the appropriate settings in MSI AB to copy the AORUS presets are:

"Silent mode":
Power Limit: 100%
Temp. Limit: 84°C
Core Clock: -127
Mem Clock: -112

"Gaming mode":
Power Limit: 100%
Temp. Limit: 84°C
Core Clock: 0
Mem Clock: 0
(D'uh - it's the cards standard bios settings)

"OC mode":
Power Limit: 125%
Temp. Limit: 84°C
Core Clock: +25
Mem Clock: +108

In OC-mode, i first ran into powertarget-limitations when playing Subnautica, DooM or benching with "Superposition", so i raised it to 125% and MSI AB tells me that the card never realy exceeds 115%. The "4K optimized" test from Superposition starts with 2036MHz, but when the card reaches 49°C it drops to 2025MHz where it stays quite long. Shortly before the end the card reaches 59°C and drops to 2000Mhz. Even with multiple runs in succession the card will not exceed ~65°C. What i DO see however is that (with the risen powertarget) the card now always hits the voltage target, so thats where i'll have to go next.

Are there any recommendations/experiences etc. which voltage settings are considered justifiable and semi-safe to use?

Besides voltage, i guess i'll deal with the temps, too. I'll order some thermal grizzly kryonaut OR Conductonaut (not sure yet) for the GPU itself. Are the pads that Gigabyte used any good or would you recommend getting some "minus pad 8", too. And if yes, which thickness is needed? (Has anyone done it all yet?)

Cheers!


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Can anyone recommend a good case for both air cooled gpu and cpu? My NZXT s340 is retaining a lot of heat and as I game the temps rise on both. When I open the side panel temperatures drop significantly. CPU goes up to 74 with the case closed and about drops to 58 with the case open. GPU is about 72 and drops to 64. I'd rather not go with AIO. I just got rid of a kraken x61 and an evga hybrid cooler because they just made too much noise when idle. I can't stand pump buzz when i'm just web browsing or doing work.

aorus 1080ti extreme
7700k (delid)
noctua nh d15
2x noctua nf a14 as front intake
1x noctua nf s12a as exhaust
stock nzxt fan as top exhaust


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good case for both air cooled gpu and cpu? My NZXT s340 is retaining a lot of heat and as I game the temps rise on both. When I open the side panel temperatures drop significantly. CPU goes up to 74 with the case closed and about drops to 58 with the case open. GPU is about 72 and drops to 64. I'd rather not go with AIO. I just got rid of a kraken x61 and an evga hybrid cooler because they just made too much noise when idle. I can't stand pump buzz when i'm just web browsing or doing work.
> 
> aorus 1080ti extreme
> 7700k (delid)
> noctua nh d15
> 2x noctua nf a14 as front intake
> 1x noctua nf s12a as exhaust
> stock nzxt fan as top exhaust


I'm oldschool but the HAF 932 with the massive side fan has been working wonders for me. See if you can find one second hand or still in stock.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good case for both air cooled gpu and cpu? My NZXT s340 is retaining a lot of heat and as I game the temps rise on both. When I open the side panel temperatures drop significantly. CPU goes up to 74 with the case closed and about drops to 58 with the case open. GPU is about 72 and drops to 64. I'd rather not go with AIO. I just got rid of a kraken x61 and an evga hybrid cooler because they just made too much noise when idle. I can't stand pump buzz when i'm just web browsing or doing work.
> 
> aorus 1080ti extreme
> 7700k (delid)
> noctua nh d15
> 2x noctua nf a14 as front intake
> 1x noctua nf s12a as exhaust
> stock nzxt fan as top exhaust


corsair carbide are very drafty. my son's rig i built in one and it is super cool.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Ok,

so i played around a bit with MSI AB and it seems i've come to a (provisionally) limit.




Voltage limit set to 100%, power limit to 125%.

With a GPU offset of +50MHz, the Superposition benchmark starts with 2101 MHz, but drops to 2080 very quickly and then will crash about midway through the test. It dnf on 4 tries, so i cut back.









With a +40 MHz offset to the GPU, the Superposition benchmark starts with 2075MHz. After about 45 seconds it reaches 56°C, hits the voltage target, throttles down to 2062MHz and finishes the test at that speed. In 5 reruns, it never fell below 2062MHz and only managed to get to 63°C, because the test endet - i do believe though that if the test ran any longer, it would go one step further down at 66°C. So temperature is affecting conductivity and resistance to the point where the GPU needs more voltage than it can get at 56°C, even with the maxed out voltage slider. The only way to get further here is by re-timming the card and getting lower temps!

I havent fiddled with ram clocks yet and simply used the clocks that Gigabyte chose for the OCmode. (1431MHz / 11448MHz). I'll be checking the ram tomorrow


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> corsair carbide are very drafty. my son's rig i built in one and it is super cool.


Thanks! I'm checking out corsair's website now. Some of them look cool.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I'm oldschool but the HAF 932 with the massive side fan has been working wonders for me. See if you can find one second hand or still in stock.


Thats fugly but thanks.

Also I've noticed if i pull the front panel off temps drop as well. Down to 67 on the gpu and 60 on the cpu with the front panel off. This might be my "gaming" mode until I get a new case.


----------



## oysta

i have been using the firestrike ultra stress test to check for stability of the overclock.
i have found that it detects instability much better than other benchmarks.
my aorus ti extreme could run ffxiv bench overnight and heaven for hrs without a hint of instability under OC clocks.
even timespy etc all ran through fine. But the stress test would reveal the instability within minutes.

my card could only do +10 offset which runs and stick at 2025mhz. at this clock has passed all stress test and never crash a single game yet.
I am just wondering how you guys test for instability? I cannot accept any sort of instability (don't wanna get kicked out mid game in overwatch)
just wondering how would you guys test for it.


----------



## InvisibleMatrix

I got 2050 stable at 1.093v but decided to reduce it to 2025 at 1.062-1.050v default, now I don't powerlimit throttle at all and I am pretty happy with the results. I realized that when I do the custom voltage curve while the gpu temps are between 45-48 degrees, the card drops from 2038 to 2025 at 54-55c and keeps it until around 65c so I just use a fan curve of 100% at 65c and everything is cool and pretty quiet for what I got with my old card.


----------



## UdoG

What did you think is better

a) Xtreme with 2025-2038 without PL throttle
b) Strix with 2088 and PL throttle

What is the difference in FPS? As far as I know only 1-2 fps, or?

The Strix is a good performer, with high OC potential, but runs in the PL. The XOC bios Is no solution... to risky.

Thanks


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> What did you think is better
> 
> a) Xtreme with 2025-2038 without PL throttle
> b) Strix with 2088 and PL throttle
> 
> What is the difference in FPS? As far as I know only 1-2 fps, or?
> 
> The Strix is a good performer, with high OC potential, but runs in the PL. The XOC bios Is no solution... to risky.
> 
> Thanks


The XOC is built for the Strix. Chances are, thats the only card that doesn't get performance regression with that BIOS.

Also consider, the Strix may not be truly stable at 2088mhz because you actually cannot get it to hold those speeds long enough before power throttle to confirm stability.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InvisibleMatrix*
> 
> I got 2050 stable at 1.093v but decided to reduce it to 2025 at 1.062-1.050v default, now I don't powerlimit throttle at all and I am pretty happy with the results. I realized that when I do the custom voltage curve while the gpu temps are between 45-48 degrees, the card drops from 2038 to 2025 at 54-55c and keeps it until around 65c so I just use a fan curve of 100% at 65c and everything is cool and pretty quiet for what I got with my old card.


HA!

Sorry, i beat you InvisibleMatrix:



Achieved it with my steep fancurve, 100% voltage, 125% power target, +40MHz GPU offset (2075/2063 MHz boost) and +384MHz RAM offset (1500/12000MHz). Unfortunatly this setup is only "Superposition" stable, "TimeSpy" and "FireStrike Ultra" crash. To make it stable with these 2, i need to lower the GPU offset to +35MHz (2050/2036 MHz boost). However, i haven't tested a game yet that didnt work with 2075/2063 MHz boost. Maybe i should get out my old Witcher3 savegames and test it on Ard Skelige


----------



## Cobra652

What about this noises?
May i RMA, or is it normal?

2067mhz. Starting with "tktktk" noise, then "zzzZZZZZZZ"


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> What about this noises?
> May i RMA, or is it normal?
> 
> 2067mhz. Starting with "tktktk" noise, then "zzzZZZZZZZ"


I've never heard that one before. When it happens, open your case and try to apply some finger pressure to the fan frame to see if that alters the noise. If it does, then it means your fans need some servicing. If it doesn't its likely to either be something loose internally or really bad coil whine.


----------



## Cobra652

Its not the fans, im using fans always on (in this vid, they set to 30-40%).
If gpu load, start buzzing. Especially above 2ghz.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> HA!
> 
> Sorry, i beat you InvisibleMatrix:
> 
> 
> 
> Achieved it with my steep fancurve, 100% voltage, 125% power target, +40MHz GPU offset (2075/2063 MHz boost) and +384MHz RAM offset (1500/12000MHz). Unfortunatly this setup is only "Superposition" stable, "TimeSpy" and "FireStrike Ultra" crash. To make it stable with these 2, i need to lower the GPU offset to +35MHz (2050/2036 MHz boost). However, i haven't tested a game yet that didnt work with 2075/2063 MHz boost. Maybe i should get out my old Witcher3 savegames and test it on Ard Skelige


Nice score! This is with a stable 2076 @ 1.081v and 12Ghz on the memory. No dropped bins during the test. Still lower than your score though!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> Its not the fans, im using fans always on (in this vid, they set to 30-40%).
> If gpu load, start buzzing. Especially above 2ghz.


OK thats likely coil whine, though to be honest this is first case of coil whine I've seen on the Aorus.
Are you comfortable opening up your GPU?
If you are not, then RMA, if you are then we can talk about how to pad those inductors to stop them buzzing.


----------



## Cobra652

First ill try RMA. I bought it 3 days ago,i have 14 days to return/exchange to another (or money back).
Thanks.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> First ill try RMA. I bought it 3 days ago,i have 14 days to return/exchange to another (or money back).
> Thanks.


i would! that sounded freaking scary


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> OK thats likely coil whine, though to be honest this is first case of coil whine I've seen on the Aorus.
> Are you comfortable opening up your GPU?
> If you are not, then RMA, if you are then we can talk about how to pad those inductors to stop them buzzing.


I don't mind opening the card, I had some coil whine on day 1 but don't hear it anymore. It's probably still there but I don't have the pc next to me. What needs padding?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> I don't mind opening the card, I had some coil whine on day 1 but don't hear it anymore. It's probably still there but I don't have the pc next to me. What needs padding?


The inductor units. Granted gigabyte already did a stella job of bracing them against rhe heatsink for most cards. I guess some need more pressure due to variability in electrical resonance and QC of the heatsink.


----------



## Cobra652

So, the sound in that video was inductor vibrating / not coil whine?
I want to change aircooler to water next month on TI. Maybe, if i remove the aircooler, the sound go away??


----------



## InvisibleMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> HA!
> 
> Sorry, i beat you InvisibleMatrix:
> 
> 
> 
> Achieved it with my steep fancurve, 100% voltage, 125% power target, +40MHz GPU offset (2075/2063 MHz boost) and +384MHz RAM offset (1500/12000MHz). Unfortunatly this setup is only "Superposition" stable, "TimeSpy" and "FireStrike Ultra" crash. To make it stable with these 2, i need to lower the GPU offset to +35MHz (2050/2036 MHz boost). However, i haven't tested a game yet that didnt work with 2075/2063 MHz boost. Maybe i should get out my old Witcher3 savegames and test it on Ard Skelige


damn







You should try lower clocks aswell, While I got to 2062-2050 I realized I had just a bit lower performance than running the card at 2038-2025, also 1062-1050v vs 1093 is a big difference for power limit, you will throttle at 4k in some games and have lower scores due to it. I had around 9850 in superposition 4k optimized and my best score now is around 10250


----------



## DisposableHero7

Awwwwww,

i just met the game that didn't like +35 GPU / +384 Ram (2050 MHz / 12.000MHz): Armored Warfare. Cry-Engine still stands true to its name
















I had to go down to +30 GPU / +284 RAM to play AW. Interestingly though: With +35MHz on the GPU, it starts with 2050 boost and then reverts to 2036. With +30MHz on the GPU, it starts with 2063 and then gows down to 2050! Superposition is down to 6085 points with these settings, though.


----------



## Cobra652

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> HA!
> 
> Sorry, i beat you InvisibleMatrix:
> 
> 
> 
> Achieved it with my steep fancurve, 100% voltage, 125% power target, +40MHz GPU offset (2075/2063 MHz boost) and +384MHz RAM offset (1500/12000MHz). Unfortunatly this setup is only "Superposition" stable, "TimeSpy" and "FireStrike Ultra" crash. To make it stable with these 2, i need to lower the GPU offset to +35MHz (2050/2036 MHz boost). However, i haven't tested a game yet that didnt work with 2075/2063 MHz boost. Maybe i should get out my old Witcher3 savegames and test it on Ard Skelige


My buzzing card says "Sorrryyyyy"...









150% Ptarget, 100% voltage, 2075/2050mhz boost, +350mhz RAM.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> My buzzing card says "Sorrryyyyy"...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 150% Ptarget, 100% voltage, 2075/2050mhz boost, +350mhz RAM.


That is absolutely hilarious. So we have 6225, 6226, and 6228. Someone needs to get 2027!! Are you guys running high clocked CPU's? I've been running 4.4Ghz on my 6700k to save watts, but I'll load up my 4.7Ghz profile and try to get a better score.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That is absolutely hilarious. So we have 6225, 6226, and 6228. Someone needs to get 2027!! Are you guys running high clocked CPU's? I've been running 4.4Ghz on my 6700k to save watts, but I'll load up my 4.7Ghz profile and try to get a better score.



here's mine


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> So, the sound in that video was inductor vibrating / not coil whine?
> I want to change aircooler to water next month on TI. Maybe, if i remove the aircooler, the sound go away??


It might actually get worse under water without appropriate padding. Inductor vibration is coil whine. i.e. All inductors are coils but not all coils are inductors.

Basically its easy, you just need 1.5mm pads on top of the rectangular coils next to the VRMs (depends on the waterblock). Firm pressure of the waterblock pressing down on the coil will dampen the whining.


----------



## satinghostrider

So I sold my card off to my friend cause the Aorus Extreme was out of stock here and I do plan to SLI at some point. I replaced the paste on the card and I got down to 55 degrees on full load! Almost -7 degrees off temps! This thermal grizzly is a miracle paste! Guess my friend will enjoy the cooler temps with the card!

Some of the guys in my local forums went to RMA the card cause it was crashing at stock and it seemed they did a 1-1 exchange with no question asked. I think Gigabyte is very WELL AWARE of the problem. Those who RMA were mainly Aorus Extreme's too!

I settled for the MSI Gaming X and I actually got a much better binned chip than my Aorus. The fans are also quieter than the Aorus.

It now boosts all the way to 2075.5Mhz with voltage and 2,062.5Mhz without voltage. Load temps are around 58 degrees! Of course credits to Slack's fan curve that I still use.

I wanna replace the TIM on that but MSI has those goddamn warranty screws on the card.









Just for those who are curious.










Full image here : http://i67.tinypic.com/e02xwx.png

Won't be posting anything related to this card here after this as this is an Aorus thread after all.


----------



## Cobra652

Thanks! Now the card RMA'd im waiting for my new card.
So, if the problem is still there with my new card, its not a problem, i can fix it? Or is it a problem and RMA (maybe money back and buy 1080ti from asus evga msi etcetc) again?

Thanks!


----------



## UdoG

I have the following problem with my Aorus - only when the fan in the middle is active...

https://files.fm/u/g3s44z33

RMA ?


----------



## Elefantito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Awwwwww,
> 
> i just met the game that didn't like +35 GPU / +384 Ram (2050 MHz / 12.000MHz): Armored Warfare. Cry-Engine still stands true to its name
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to go down to +30 GPU / +284 RAM to play AW. Interestingly though: With +35MHz on the GPU, it starts with 2050 boost and then reverts to 2036. With +30MHz on the GPU, it starts with 2063 and then gows down to 2050! Superposition is down to 6085 points with these settings, though.


I had a similar experience with Prey (Also Cry Engine I believe).
Had to dial down to +25 / +108 - Extreme "stock" settings which worked just fine.


----------



## ForNever

I've been poking around this thread, being interested in this card. Best I can tell, it is not actually binned, but the 1080 Ti responds very well to lower temps, so they slapped a superior cooler on it in order to reach better clocks out of the box. Is this correct? If the extra $50.00 is merely for a superior air cooler, I'm wondering if I should just save the money to put towards a water block on an FE, or possibly a Gigabyte 1080 Ti Gaming OC.

Please let me know if I have misinterpreted anything. There are a lot of pages in here to sift through, so it's entirely possible I missed something. I'm fine with spending extra money if the hardware itself is superior, but it seems like a waste to spend more money for an air cooler I won't use longer than a few weeks.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> I've been poking around this thread, being interested in this card. Best I can tell, it is not actually binned, but the 1080 Ti responds very well to lower temps, so they slapped a superior cooler on it in order to reach better clocks out of the box. Is this correct? If the extra $50.00 is merely for a superior air cooler, I'm wondering if I should just save the money to put towards a water block on an FE, or possibly a Gigabyte 1080 Ti Gaming OC.
> 
> Please let me know if I have misinterpreted anything. There are a lot of pages in here to sift through, so it's entirely possible I missed something. I'm fine with spending extra money if the hardware itself is superior, but it seems like a waste to spend more money for an air cooler I won't use longer than a few weeks.


This card has a higher power limit which will help you get much more stable clocks than a stock founders. With the founders card you have to shunt mod to get past the power limit.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That is absolutely hilarious. So we have 6225, 6226, and 6228. Someone needs to get 2027!! Are you guys running high clocked CPU's? I've been running 4.4Ghz on my 6700k to save watts, but I'll load up my 4.7Ghz profile and try to get a better score.


Running a i7 6700K @ 4.5GHz here, sadly it will not go any higher even at 4.6GHz and fidling with vcore etc it will crash on windows boot. with 4.5GHz everything works.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 
> here's mine


Neat








But you just wait until i re-timmed my card








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 
> here's mine


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elefantito*
> 
> I had a similar experience with Prey (Also Cry Engine I believe).
> Had to dial down to +25 / +108 - Extreme "stock" settings which worked just fine.


Hm, thats odd. PREY was one of the games that gave my card no problems at all. It handled +40 GPU and +384 RAM clocks without a sweat. With all settings maxed out, GPU load never even touched 90% and temps leveled at about 53°C after 30minutes of playing. Boost stayed rockstable at 2063MHz.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> This card has a higher power limit which will help you get much more stable clocks than a stock founders. With the founders card you have to shunt mod to get past the power limit.


Perfect, exactly what I was trying to figure out. Thank you for posting! +1


----------



## c0ld

How many connections does the Regular Aorus 1080 Ti have when removing the cooler? Might repaste it when I switch to my cpu to a 4960x this week.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> I've been poking around this thread, being interested in this card. Best I can tell, it is not actually binned, but the 1080 Ti responds very well to lower temps, so they slapped a superior cooler on it in order to reach better clocks out of the box. Is this correct? If the extra $50.00 is merely for a superior air cooler, I'm wondering if I should just save the money to put towards a water block on an FE, or possibly a Gigabyte 1080 Ti Gaming OC.
> 
> Please let me know if I have misinterpreted anything. There are a lot of pages in here to sift through, so it's entirely possible I missed something. I'm fine with spending extra money if the hardware itself is superior, but it seems like a waste to spend more money for an air cooler I won't use longer than a few weeks.


Besides the better bios-settings the AORUS has (theoretically allowing the card to consume a total of 375 watts), it backs it up up with 12+2 power phase design. Thats 12 phases to power the GPU and 2 for the ram. A 1080 TI FE only has a 7+2 phase layout ...


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> How many connections does the Regular Aorus 1080 Ti have when removing the cooler? Might repaste it when I switch to my cpu to a 4960x this week.


I only undid two connectors to repaste, I opened it like a book. Just wiggle the plastic connectors left and right til they come off. Don't try to just yank away or you could pull the wires out of the pins.


----------



## Cobra652

I have got my new Aorus Xtreme after RMA.
Same buzzing noise.








BUT!
2100mhz + / 12000mhz fully stable! (im dropped to ~2076 at 65c)


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have got my new Aorus Xtreme after RMA.
> Same buzzing noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT!
> 2100mhz + / 12000mhz fully stable! (im dropped to ~2076 at 65c)


Could you share your settings please - are you using, curve or straight additions through Afterburner?
Great result!


----------



## Cobra652

Im using now this. Im used in the test the same but only with Core + 70.

And im stable at the same but core +110, voltage +100. Started at ~1133, dropped to 1100 at 60C. Ill try it again after im on water on next month.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Mass Effect is the only game that gives me the Power Perfcap in GPU-Z. Such a demanding game. I have to run it at 2050 @ 1.081v and I have the memory overclock turned down to +200 since the game has issues with the memory with the 1080 Ti's. Not sure if it's been fixed yet. When this game crashes it just hard locks the entire computer. Have to do a complete restart. Not to mention alt+tabbing makes the window small and to get back to full screen you need to change the settings to something else and then change it back to full screen again. The game, while I'm REALLY enjoying it, is not too computer friendly. Every other game I play, I can play at 2088 @ 1.093v and +500 memory no issues at all.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have got my new Aorus Xtreme after RMA.
> Same buzzing noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT!
> 2100mhz + / 12000mhz fully stable! (im dropped to ~2076 at 65c)


same buzzing? What is your PSU situation?


----------



## ForNever

Went ahead and picked it up after work. Boy, nothing to be disappointed about here. It more than doubled my performance











Damn backplate could fry an egg tho. Waterblock please!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Went ahead and picked it up after work. Boy, nothing to be disappointed about here. It more than doubled my performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn backplate could fry an egg tho. Waterblock please!


Mine is cooled by an old Quadro single slot blower just for that copper plate + VRAM + VRM area. That cooler was rated to keep a G80 chip happy.


----------



## Notor1ouS

is it possible to flash the aorus extreme bios on to the normal aorus card?
and will i lose warranty then?


----------



## Cobra652

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> same buzzing? What is your PSU situation?


I have 550w BW Dark Power on gold. Its enough. I tried a bq 650w with gold. Same noise. Its not a psu problem.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have 550w BW Dark Power on gold. Its enough. I tried a bq 650w with gold. Same noise. Its not a psu problem.


To kill coil whine we have to first understand what causes coil whine. The Coils are basically magnets which take in electrical power, it converts the electricity in to a magnetic field then discharges it at a slow continuous rate to the VRM.

The Coils are whining because the power that your VRMs are delivering is very peaky and spiky. The magnetic field that is being formed is not very smooth and even, thus the coils repel each other many thousands of times per second i.e. they literally vibrate to make noise.

So how do we tackle this coil whine issue? You choose where in the chain you want to target.

1. Clean up the power being supplied: this means either hunting down the source of the power ripples in your system (which can be tedious and unnecessary) or getting one of the digitally regulated PSUs with good ripple suppression. Expensive, but this is a long term fix. However, there is no guarantee this will work if your AC mains power is very dirty but good PSUs can help a lot.

2. Reducing the vibration: because we know the coils are vibrating, you can reduce the buzzing noise by padding down or bracing the coils against something hard. The Gigabyte cooling solution already does this really well by applying top pressure via thermal pads down on the coils but evidently in your case this isn't enough.
We can improve this one of 3 ways: You can either brace the coils together with Seksui tape, you can apply hot glue around the coils or you can increase the pad pressure on the coils.

3. Finally, you can get a soundproof tempered glass case that blocks out the noise. The buzzing is only annoying, it doesn't mean your card is dying and it doesn't mean something is wrong with the GPU. It just means your card is responding to the local power being delivered to it.


----------



## Cobra652

Thank you! Ill try a 750w Bq Dark Pro next month. + water.
If not fixed ill try more pressure with padding.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have 550w BW Dark Power on gold. Its enough. I tried a bq 650w with gold. Same noise. Its not a psu problem.


550w is not enough for a complete system with a 1080 Ti especially with the power draw of the card.


----------



## Cobra652

Its enough.
With a 80+gold psu.
Complete system ~ 450w.
With 650w have the same noise.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have got my new Aorus Xtreme after RMA.
> Same buzzing noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT!
> 2100mhz + / 12000mhz fully stable! (im dropped to ~2076 at 65c)


same buzzing? What is your PSU situation?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have 550w BW Dark Power on gold. Its enough. I tried a bq 650w with gold. Same noise. Its not a psu problem.


i beg to differ. that isnt enough power AND i dont think it's single rail. are you running two pci-e cables or one? are you using any kind of molex? your computer definitely will spike to 550w+. Hell, the gpu alone spikes 400w+, and you should push a psu that hard.

I would rethink the "It's definitely not my psu" line of thinking. NEVER cheap out or push the limits of a psu. It'll kill every component in the system when it dies...

recommended for aftermarket 1080Ti's on overclocked systems- 1200w sli, 850+w single gpu.

EDIT: I saw where you were eyeing a 750w. that would be better . much better.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> Its enough.
> With a 80+gold psu.
> Complete system ~ 450w.
> With 650w have the same noise.


Not saying you don't have a quality PSU but the 550W is not enough it will never run those 550W at peak. Like the post above the card spikes to 400W. Now if you factor your whole system I don't really know what you have but + CPU OC, and +GPU OC your gonna get problems.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> Its enough.
> With a 80+gold psu.
> Complete system ~ 450w.
> With 650w have the same noise.


even 650W is cutting it close, this card has a wattage of close to 400W. That being said, I'm quite interested to see how your 750W BQ unit performs, the reviews indicate it has very good ripple suppression.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have got my new Aorus Xtreme after RMA.
> Same buzzing noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT!
> 2100mhz + / 12000mhz fully stable! (im dropped to ~2076 at 65c)


Wow,

thats some awesome KICK out of the box, i envy you, you lucky bas****


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> same buzzing? What is your PSU situation?
> i beg to differ. that isnt enough power AND i dont think it's single rail. are you running two pci-e cables or one? are you using any kind of molex? your computer definitely will spike to 550w+. Hell, the gpu alone spikes 400w+, and you should push a psu that hard.
> 
> I would rethink the "It's definitely not my psu" line of thinking. NEVER cheap out or push the limits of a psu. It'll kill every component in the system when it dies...
> 
> recommended for aftermarket 1080Ti's on overclocked systems- 1200w sli, 850+w single gpu.
> 
> EDIT: I saw where you were eyeing a 750w. that would be better . much better.


Wow, please guys, stop it with the PSU madness.









There is so much superficial knowledge floating around about PSU's. Yes, it is a good advice to get a more powerfull PSU if you are buying cheap, "walmart"-grade PSUs. But you don't need that watts-overkill if you get a quality made PSU with high efficiency. Recommending a 1200watts PSU for a 2x SLI is overkill. you need that kind of power when going 4x SLI for benchmarking or when doing sub zero cooling, where you need to up the CPU/GPU volts by leaps.

Example given:
I7 5930K @ 4.3 GHz
Asus ROG Rampage
32GB RAM
3x SLI GTX 980 TI

This runs stable as a rock in my friends PC on a Corsair AX860 for roughly 3 years now.

Another example:
The TOTAL system power consumption of a PC like this:

Core i7-4960X @ 4.2GHz
ASRock Fatal1ty X79 Professional
Samsung SSD 840 EVO (750GB)
G.Skill RipjawZ DDR3-1866 4 x 8GB
GTX 1080 Ti Founders Edition

This system peaks at about 400 Watts total drawn from the AC outlet. Yes thats for the whole system, not the GPU alone. Given that an AORUS Xtreme (in theory, it will never actually reach that) could draw 375 watts (125 more than a FE), the above system with an AORUS Xtreme could draw up to 530 watts. But it will never actually reach that high.

Asuming Cobra652 has a "beQuiet! Dark Power Pro" (do you?), that is an extremly well made PSU, rated for true 550Watts permament load and up to 610 watts peaks. It has 2 operating modes, one with several splitt 12V rails, and one with a single 12V rail capable of sustaining 540watts permanent load. It is an 80Plus Platinum certified PSU that still has 92% efficience at 100% load. This is not you average china cracker PSU where you better get double the watts you actualy need.

Ofcourse, it could always be a faulty /monday PSU, but if it is good working order, it will be enough to power his system.


----------



## Siigari

I just bought a 1080 ti FTW3, and I'm excited to receive it this week!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siigari*
> 
> I just bought a 1080 ti FTW3, and I'm excited to receive it this week!


Hey,

well .... if i hadn't been so impatient, i might have gotten a FTW3, too. I have been with EVGA for a long time now and never was disappointed (GTX 570, GTX 780SC (2x), GTX 1080 FTW). The new FTW 3 is supposed to be very efficient, fast, silent and rather cool, thanks to its very broad cooler. I hope you'll have much fun with that card!

But, ain't you in the wrong thread, somehow ^^


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Siigari*
> 
> I just bought a 1080 ti FTW3, and I'm excited to receive it this week!


Yeah shoo go to your own thread this is for the cool peeps only








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cobra652*
> 
> I have got my new Aorus Xtreme after RMA.
> Same buzzing noise.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BUT!
> 2100mhz + / 12000mhz fully stable! (im dropped to ~2076 at 65c)


Ouch rather have a silent card than have a 2.1GHz buzzing card.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Notor1ouS*
> 
> is it possible to flash the aorus extreme bios on to the normal aorus card?
> and will i lose warranty then?


Yes and yes


----------



## Cobra652

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Not saying you don't have a quality PSU but the 550W is not enough it will never run those 550W at peak. Like the post above the card spikes to 400W. Now if you factor your whole system I don't really know what you have but + CPU OC, and +GPU OC your gonna get problems.


I said,it BQ Dark Power Pro 10 550w. Problem? Maybe. But my system with 5.2ghz 7700k / 2100mhz 1080ti was stable without problem. Only that buzzing noise.
I try a 750w next month.

Oh and about silent card: There is no silent card in 1080ti series. 1080ti ftw 3? No its not silent. Watercooled 1080ti. THATS silent.
The buzzing noise is weaker than Aurous/Asus Strix/Gaming X/Ftw 3 vents on 60%.... And 60% was nothing for this cards if you OC and play for hours, you need more....
Fan noise is much more stronger in games.


----------



## clarifiante

ive got 2 of these bad boys myself. both came with f4 bios, is it safe to flash f3 bios over the f4? also how do i flash for each card individually?


----------



## c0ld

Not sure but your best bet is taking one out and flashing it by itself. Rather be safe than sorry.


----------



## DisposableHero7

YEAY









I just spent another 100 bucks (€) on some Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, Conductonaut and several "Thermal Pad 8" in variouse sizes and thicknesses.
Was all in stock, so hopefully everything will arrive on friday. The weekend is going to be a re-tim and tweak orgy


----------



## Migot

HI guys,, i have a problem with my card. Sometimes when i play witcher 3 i get strange error (lifekernelevent error code 141). My card is only +35 mhz and +400 mhz in msi afterburner.

It's totally random, i get that error even when i was browsing internet... Should i flash my card to f4 bios? Or mayby i should add some voltages?


----------



## Douse

Hrm, if it is happening when browsing, I don't think it is gpu related. You can run your card at stock just to be sure and see if it happens. Seems like something else though. Haven't come across that error myself....Have you done a windows update recently? You really need to look at the error more closely and see whats failing....

Just to add to the power supply discussion, my PC was drawing in excess of 550 watt from the wall (not including monitors etc) when gaming. I would saying using a 550 watt power supply is definitely walking a fine line here. Whilst it may be fine, it will be pushing the power supply to the limit. Probably safer to upgrade imo.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> HI guys,, i have a problem with my card. Sometimes when i play witcher 3 i get strange error (lifekernelevent error code 141). My card is only +35 mhz and +400 mhz in msi afterburner.
> 
> It's totally random, i get that error even when i was browsing internet... Should i flash my card to f4 bios? Or mayby i should add some voltages?


What happens when you get that error? Game crashes? Browser crashes? Perhaps your CPU and memory clocks aren't completely stable.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Just to add to the power supply discussion, my PC was drawing in excess of 550 watt from the wall (not including monitors etc) when gaming. I would saying using a 550 watt power supply is definitely walking a fine line here. Whilst it may be fine, it will be pushing the power supply to the limit. Probably safer to upgrade imo.


Thats to be expected. Power supplies are rated according to their ability to sustain watts towards to PC, not according to how much watts they draw from the outlet. So lets say your PSU was drawing 600 watts from the wall. If you have an "80 Plus Platinum" certified one, it must stay above 90% efficiency from 50-100% load. So if it is only barely making the Platinum cert. and realy only at 90% efficiency (worst case scenario for a Platinum PSU), it was delivering 540 watts to the PC. A good quality 550watts PSU will deliver that 24/7 without stress, with enough headroom for spikes above 600watts internaly (670 watts drawn from the wall).


----------



## Douse

Yeah that makes sense. Cheers for the explanation!


----------



## Migot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> What happens when you get that error? Game crashes? Browser crashes? Perhaps your CPU and memory clocks aren't completely stable.


I could play witcher 3 for 2 hours without crash and then when i jumped into the water, that error occurred. I saw some kind of artifacts i guess. square dots? When i add too much mhz it gives me that error as well in benchmarks (like+70 etc.). But like i said i have only +40/+400 mm in afterburner...

My cpu is i7 7700k @4.8ghz 1.290 adaptive, and ram g skill 3000 mhz xmp profile


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> I could play witcher 3 for 2 hours without crash and then when i jumped into the water, that error occurred. I saw some kind of artifacts i guess. square dots? When i add too much mhz it gives me that error as well in benchmarks (like+70 etc.). But like i said i have only +40/+400 mm in afterburner...
> 
> My cpu is i7 7700k @4.8ghz 1.290 adaptive, and ram g skill 3000 mhz xmp profile


you vram is too high. as it heats up , if you are on an aggressive OC, it will begin to error and then crash.


----------



## ForNever

Come on with the water blocks already. Enough of this air cooling business >


----------



## clarifiante

am interested in repasting my 1080ti´s but abit hestiant to take it apart without a guide. those that have successfully repasted. do you guys have a tutorial you could please share?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> I could play witcher 3 for 2 hours without crash and then when i jumped into the water, that error occurred. I saw some kind of artifacts i guess. square dots? When i add too much mhz it gives me that error as well in benchmarks (like+70 etc.). But like i said i have only +40/+400 mm in afterburner...
> 
> My cpu is i7 7700k @4.8ghz 1.290 adaptive, and ram g skill 3000 mhz xmp profile


Yep,

as Slackaveli said, this clearly hints at your VRAM. Grafic artifacts in the form of flickering pixels/dots or crazy colored squares are malfunctioning vram. Grafic glitches with triangles (in general distorted or wrongly textured polygons) are the result of a malfunctioning GPU. You should lower your vram clocks OR check if the vram gets proper cooling and improve it.

*And by the way:*
"Only" +40MHz GPU & + 400MHz RAM is quite an understatement. These offsets are in addition to the higher clockrate the AORUS gaming mode already has (1607 GPU, 1404 RAM), resulting in the GPU trying to boost past 2100 MHz and the RAM running at 12,032 MHz. That is a most impressive OC and already close to the limit what 1080 TI cards will ever do under air. A very dedicated full cover water block directly touching GPU, RAM and VRMs with good thermal paste (without any thick pads) might get you higher, but thats not guaranteed. So don't worry, you are already close to the top....








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *clarifiante*
> 
> am interested in repasting my 1080ti´s but abit hestiant to take it apart without a guide. those that have successfully repasted. do you guys have a tutorial you could please share?


There are several YT-vids about AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme teardown. Here, Gamers Nexus did a quite good one:



They do not show any repasting though.

If you are willing to wait, i am going to repaste & -pad my Xtreme this weekend (if so my Thermal Grizzly order arrives) and make lots of pictures in the process!


----------



## ForNever

EK WATER BLOCKS OUT NOW!!!!!! Sweet Jesus, finally.

Does anyone know what size thermal pad's I'll need for ram/vrm's/chokes? I guess I'll just order .5, 1, and 1.5 mm?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> EK WATER BLOCKS OUT NOW!!!!!! Sweet Jesus, finally.
> 
> Does anyone know what size thermal pad's I'll need for ram/vrm's/chokes? I guess I'll just order .5, 1, and 1.5 mm?


Hm,

i wouldn't take guess here but instead write to EK and ask them. It all depends on how the waterblock is actually shaped. The AORUS Xtreme Aircooler has a bit of space to the RAMs (from the teardown vids i'd guess 2mm pads) and even more for the VRMs and mosfets, where i ordered 3 mm pads. When my order arrives, i'll see how everything fits. The question is, did EK keep the same distances like the aircooler had (bad imho), or did they design their water block to lay very tight on all the components, which would be way better.


----------



## knotted1

Just pre-ordered the EK waterblock and back plate. Finally!


----------



## Emmanuel

Pre-ordered mine too and a backplate.


----------



## Migot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> you vram is too high. as it heats up , if you are on an aggressive OC, it will begin to error and then crash.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Yep,
> 
> as Slackaveli said, this clearly hints at your VRAM. Grafic artifacts in the form of flickering pixels/dots or crazy colored squares are malfunctioning vram. Grafic glitches with triangles (in general distorted or wrongly textured polygons) are the result of a malfunctioning GPU. You should lower your vram clocks OR check if the vram gets proper cooling and improve it.
> 
> *And by the way:*
> "Only" +40MHz GPU & + 400MHz RAM is quite an understatement. These offsets are in addition to the higher clockrate the AORUS gaming mode already has (1607 GPU, 1404 RAM), resulting in the GPU trying to boost past 2100 MHz and the RAM running at 12,032 MHz. That is a most impressive OC and already close to the limit what 1080 TI cards will ever do under air. A very dedicated full cover water block directly touching GPU, RAM and VRMs with good thermal paste (without any thick pads) might get you higher, but thats not guaranteed. So don't worry, you are already close to the top....


Thanks guys for your help. Did you mean my dd4 clocks or vram on GPU? One more simple question, how can i monitor that temps? I can't see it in GPU-Z and HW monitor


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> Thanks guys for your help. Did you mean my dd4 clocks or vram on GPU? One more simple question, how can i monitor that temps? I can't see it in GPU-Z and HW monitor


As we both where speaking of vram (video random access memory), we meant the ram on your graphics card








About monitoring it, i fear the AORUS does not have any temp sensors for the ram, at least not that i am aware of.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hm,
> 
> i wouldn't take guess here but instead write to EK and ask them. It all depends on how the waterblock is actually shaped. The AORUS Xtreme Aircooler has a bit of space to the RAMs (from the teardown vids i'd guess 2mm pads) and even more for the VRMs and mosfets, where i ordered 3 mm pads. When my order arrives, i'll see how everything fits. The question is, did EK keep the same distances like the aircooler had (bad imho), or did they design their water block to lay very tight on all the components, which would be way better.


I just ordered .5 and 1mm for now, but good point. They may very well not utilize the same distances from modules as the air cooler...and I agree, I really hope they did not!

According to what I have heard, it's best practice to use some clear nail polish on the caps surrounding the GPU if using liquid metal TIM, correct?

My block is scheduled to ship on 5/31, imagine arrival won't be until mid June though to the heartland of the states huh? Extremely excited to get case temps back down!!


----------



## Dracosil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> EK WATER BLOCKS OUT NOW!!!!!! Sweet Jesus, finally.
> 
> Does anyone know what size thermal pad's I'll need for ram/vrm's/chokes? I guess I'll just order .5, 1, and 1.5 mm?


Replacement thermal pads:
Thermal Pad - 0.5mm (RAM 8x) (for memory IC)
Thermal Pad - 1.0mm (120x16mm) (for Vdd VRM)
Thermal Pad - 1.0mm (120x24mm) (for MOSFET)

this is with ek water Block


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> According to what I have heard, it's best practice to use some clear nail polish on the caps surrounding the GPU if using liquid metal TIM, correct?
> 
> My block is scheduled to ship on 5/31, imagine arrival won't be until mid June though to the heartland of the states huh? Extremely excited to get case temps back down!!


Hm, nail polish, i haven't actually thought about that. But better check how heat resistant that is, because your GPU DIE and PCB will surely get kinda hot still. I would probably recommend getting some elastic electric tape and cut it into fitting pieces to fill out everything between the DIE and the metal frame on the edge of the GPU PCB. Good electric tape is specified to withstand temps of up to 125°C.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dracosil80*
> 
> Replacement thermal pads:
> Thermal Pad - 0.5mm (RAM 8x) (for memory IC)
> Thermal Pad - 1.0mm (120x16mm) (for Vdd VRM)
> Thermal Pad - 1.0mm (120x24mm) (for MOSFET)
> 
> this is with ek water Block


You got that directly from EK? So they seem to have dramatically decreased the gaps between their waterblock and the components, that should lead to some very cool temperatures. NICE


----------



## Dracosil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hm, nail polish, i haven't actually thought about that. But better check how heat resistant that is, because your GPU DIE and PCB will surely get kinda hot still. I would probably recommend getting some elastic electric tape and cut it into fitting pieces to fill out everything between the DIE and the metal frame on the edge of the GPU PCB. Good electric tape is specified to withstand temps of up to 125°C.
> You got that directly from EK? So they seem to have dramatically decreased the gaps between their waterblock and the components, that should lead to some very cool temperatures. NICE


the pads tickness was from installation instruction on EK website


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akira749*
> 
> New EK Full-Cover water blocks for 1080 Ti AORUS graphics cards


YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS. May 31st they will be released. Cannot wait. I'm shaking in my skin just thinking about ripping this monstrous cooler off. I'm so glad that the thermal pads are 0.5mm and 1.0mm because I ordered the Fujipoly Extreme thermal pads in that size a month ago. I am SO BEYOND EXCITED RIGHT NOW. Next week needs to hurry up and come.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dracosil80*
> 
> Replacement thermal pads:
> Thermal Pad - 0.5mm (RAM 8x) (for memory IC)
> Thermal Pad - 1.0mm (120x16mm) (for Vdd VRM)
> Thermal Pad - 1.0mm (120x24mm) (for MOSFET)
> 
> this is with ek water Block


Thank you very much!

Still looking forward to your disassembly this weekend Disposable7, if you're still willing.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

It's official!!

Paid the $50 for UPS Urgent shipping because I'm THAT impatient.









Hopefully customs doesn't decide to hold onto the package for a month.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Hm,

is the EK backplate neccessary if you want a backplate with the block, or will the regular AORUS backplate be compatible with the block, too? I mean, there are only that much holes in the PCB where you could put screws through, so i guess it *should* work with the original backplate as well?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hm,
> 
> is the EK backplate neccessary if you want a backplate with the block, or will the regular AORUS backplate be compatible with the block, too? I mean, there are only that much holes in the PCB where you could put screws through, so i guess it *should* work with the original backplate as well?


I don't think it will work with the regular backplate. Every screw is measured to be precise in length. I doubt you'll be able to put the stock backplate on with the block without modification. Plus I like the clean glossy blackness of EK backplates. So sexy.


----------



## Migot

Is it safe and worth to set 100% votlage in afterburner? Or its better to leave it at 0%?


----------



## Dracosil80

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hm,
> 
> is the EK backplate neccessary if you want a backplate with the block, or will the regular AORUS backplate be compatible with the block, too? I mean, there are only that much holes in the PCB where you could put screws through, so i guess it *should* work with the original backplate as well?


quote EK Page

PLEASE NOTE:

GIGABYTE® AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti factory backplate is not compatible with this water block!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Migot*
> 
> Is it safe and worth to set 100% votlage in afterburner? Or its better to leave it at 0%?


If you want to reach a higher bin voltage then yes, you can set it to 100%. If you are just doing something like 2025 @1.50 then it's not necessary unless the card needs more volts (check perfcaps in GPU-Z). For example, one of my afterburner profiles is 2025 @ .0993v. I have the voltage set to +0 because there is no need for extra volts. If I'm running a higher core clock like 2088 @ 1.093v I'll do +100 to give the card the overhead in voltage that it needs. You can mess around with it if you want I know @Slackaveli runs 51% and is able to hit 1.93v with that.


----------



## Douse

Hrm, all this chatter about water blocks makes me want to include my GPU in my loop.....The wife will not be pleased!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Hrm, all this chatter about water blocks makes me want to include my GPU in my loop.....The wife will not be pleased!


How could you NOT add your GPU to the loop? Just think about all those saved bins. The wife can get mad, but she'll cool off eventually. Take her out for dinner or something.


----------



## humbled

Hi all, Ive been lurking these forums for awhile and just wanted to offer my sincere thanks to all you contributers for helping me with my oc journey. I am now content with my grizzlied oc curved card and prior to this i had only fiddled with a 680 back in the day. Thank you yall for taking the time in helping us noobs out.


----------



## Douse

So random question, kinda related to this thread but not...

Not considering the money aspect, would you guys recommend a Titan xp?

Whats the go with the binning process of Nvidia reference cards? It will be put under water, so I guess the question is, will it clock as high as these already factory overclocked cards?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *humbled*
> 
> Hi all, Ive been lurking these forums for awhile and just wanted to offer my sincere thanks to all you contributers for helping me with my oc journey. I am now content with my grizzlied oc curved card and prior to this i had only fiddled with a 680 back in the day. Thank you yall for taking the time in helping us noobs out.


All good, glad to see another happy owner


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> So random question, kinda related to this thread but not...
> 
> Not considering the money aspect, would you guys recommend a Titan xp?
> 
> Whats the go with the binning process of Nvidia reference cards? It will be put under water, so I guess the question is, will it clock as high as these already factory overclocked cards?
> All good, glad to see another happy owner


This is an extremely complicated question because its heavily random.
However we can apply some logic and see where we get.

The very first batch of FE cards that were released were undeniably the best overclockers (loads got to 2088mhz-2125mhz) because NVIDIA clearly used the best binned chips for them. We don't fully understand why but I suspect it was for competitive reasons.

Since then we have seen a downward trend amongst the FE cards (with most topping out at 1900mhz now) and the partner cards were simply not as good as one would expect considering the overkill cooling (most range from 2000-2050mhz).

The Titan Xp is extremely difficult to nail to the wall. You are _probably_ more likely to land a decent binned chip but you have to understand that getting a perfect GP102 (i.e. all functional units) doesn't equate to getting a chip that gets good electrical characteristics favourable to high clocks. This is because in chip manufacturing, defects which take out functional units occur pretty much randomly across the wafer but is only slightly less likely to happen in the centre whereas the chips with good electrical characteristics tend to come almost exclusively from the centre.

In fact, my suspicion is most of the Titan Xp cards have GP102 units that didn't make the cut for P6000 quadros from a electrical stand-point thus they are basically the leakier perfect GP102 dies. This means that clocks will range wildly from 1900mhz-2100mhz depending on sample but I think most settle down to 1950mhz-2000mhz.

Another thing to consider, given the same chip electrical characteristics, the GPU102 die in the 1080ti is more likely to overclock higher than the perfect GP102 die in the Titan Xp. This is because the 1080ti has a higher power budget (less functional units) and is (from a probability point of view) less likely to have weaker silicon which may hold back an overclock (less functional units).


----------



## Douse

Awesome, thanks heaps for the detailed answer.


----------



## Migot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> If you want to reach a higher bin voltage then yes, you can set it to 100%. If you are just doing something like 2025 @1.50 then it's not necessary unless the card needs more volts (check perfcaps in GPU-Z). For example, one of my afterburner profiles is 2025 @ .0993v. I have the voltage set to +0 because there is no need for extra volts. If I'm running a higher core clock like 2088 @ 1.093v I'll do +100 to give the card the overhead in voltage that it needs. You can mess around with it if you want I know @Slackaveli runs 51% and is able to hit 1.93v with that.


Ok i think i need to set 100% voltage, without that my card can drop to 1999mhz or 2012mhm. I saw one more strange things, sometimes when i want to use superpostiion benchmark, my card is only at 70% utlility and i get funny score +-4200points... is it normal? I usually get around 6160, but like i said 3-4 times my score was 4200 without 100% utilization...


----------



## NovaHova

I saw recent posts about how much PSU wattage would be needed, well i can safely say 550w is NOT enough. Ive got a corsair RM 550X but overclocking both my cpu (1600X) and non aorus 1080ti i do get system shutdowns.

I have my cpu at stock right now, and GPU at full settings 100% voltage, 150% power limit, core clock +80 and memory + 500
But if start overclocking the CPU things go bad.

Should have went with a 650w supply, everyone kept suggesting 550 would be enough but they told me wrong obviously. This is my first PC build so i did not know any better.



This any good without CPU overclock?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NovaHova*
> 
> I saw recent posts about how much PSU wattage would be needed, well i can safely say 550w is NOT enough. Ive got a corsair RM 550X but overclocking both my cpu (1600X) and non aorus 1080ti i do get system shutdowns.
> 
> I have my cpu at stock right now, and GPU at full settings 100% voltage, 150% power limit, core clock +80 and memory + 500
> But if start overclocking the CPU things go bad.
> 
> Should have went with a 650w supply, everyone kept suggesting 550 would be enough but they told me wrong obviously. This is my first PC build so i did not know any better.
> 
> 
> 
> This any good without CPU overclock?


Oh god tell me about it, I can't stomach the idiots that float around OCN vastly under-recommending PSU wattage all for the sake of either personal ego (because they themselves bought a low wattage unit and got away with it) or some misguided penny-pinching.
The price difference between 550W and 750W is miniscule, and the difference with quality 1000W units is tolerable. I would always recommend get a 1000W unit wherever possible (though I do make an exception for the AX860i because of its sheer efficiency and digital regulation), because honestly, the PSU is something you keep for easily a decade. Divide the cost of the PSU over 10 years and you suddenly find that pinching pennies for lower wattage makes a really bad deal (especially if re-purchasing is involved) compared to buying decent and holding.


----------



## NovaHova

I got core voltage at 0% (everything else the same as above) and clocked my cpu at 4.0 and got this now.
Gonna keep it like this, that way i dont stress out the gpu too much and still got the CPU running higher.

Just raising the core voltage a lil bit will make my PSU shutdown.


----------



## ForNever

Agreed on power supplies. My system pulls about 630 watts from the wall running IBT & Furmark. 550 is cutting it far too close, even on a platinum unit.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NovaHova*
> 
> I saw recent posts about how much PSU wattage would be needed, well i can safely say 550w is NOT enough. Ive got a corsair RM 550X but overclocking both my cpu (1600X) and non aorus 1080ti i do get system shutdowns.
> 
> I have my cpu at stock right now, and GPU at full settings 100% voltage, 150% power limit, core clock +80 and memory + 500
> But if start overclocking the CPU things go bad.
> 
> Should have went with a 650w supply, everyone kept suggesting 550 would be enough but they told me wrong obviously. This is my first PC build so i did not know any better.
> 
> 
> 
> This any good without CPU overclock?


Thats sad to hear, but ...

A PSU isn't automaticaly a quality one because it's branded "Corsair". Sadly the PSU-market is kinda complicated, with lots of brands, but only a couple of actual manufacturers that produce PSU's for the brands. The RM550x you mentioned is (unfortunatly) made by Channel Well (CWT), who are known to make mediocre to underwhelming PSUs in terms of overall quality, noise, ripple and stability of the delivered currents. On top of that, this PSU is "only" certified 80Plus gold, which means that it will linger somewhere around 80% efficency on full load.

Not to hurt you, but i wouldn't call the RM550x a quality PSU. The realy good ones are made by Seassonic or SuperFlower, with a margin to almost anything else. In conclusion, yes, when buying a PSU of lesser quality, you have to buy higher advertised wattage to be on the safe side. How to find out which PSU are good? Realy not easy these days, as you can't just pick a brand and be good, since all the brands have different suppliers/manufacturers for their different models of PSUs. Corsair buys from Seasonic for their AX series, but CWT for the RM series ... this is similar with many other brands.

You also might want to take a read here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-might-not-want-to-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu

So, whoever talked you into getting a 550watts PSU wasn't completly wrong, but he should have warned you also that there are 550watt PSUs that are good, and a whole lot of 550watt PSUs taht are crappy. Telling you that a 550watts PSU is enough is only half the truth without giving you a certain model that will actualy deliver what it promises.

But on another note, your other threads indicate that you are/were having other major problems with your system in general, not shutting down correctly etc.. This could indicate a general problem with your PSU, it might not only be of lesser quality, but actualy broken if it does not correctly correpsonds to ATX shutdown.


----------



## UdoG

Hopefully I will get my GTX Ti Aorus water block until end of next week.
Does it matter if I put the inlet on the left or right hole and the outlet on the opposite?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Hopefully I will get my GTX Ti Aorus water block until end of next week.
> Does it matter if I put the inlet on the left or right hole and the outlet on the opposite?


IIRC EK recommendation says it doesnt matter. Personally, I'd go with the inlet being the one closer to the display ports simply because you want the water to rush down on top of the fins then spread laterally. The reason EK can get away with flow either way is because the fins are not very dense. In the ultra dense designs, reversing the flow drops performance a lot.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Hopefully I will get my GTX Ti Aorus water block until end of next week.
> Does it matter if I put the inlet on the left or right hole and the outlet on the opposite?


Usually, it does ... however on the EK website they state taht for this coolers design, they did something that would make it irrelevent in which direction you have the water flowing through it:
Quote:


> ... EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus water block features a central inlet split-flow cooling engine design for best possible cooling performance, which also works flawlessly with reversed water flow without adversely affecting the cooling performance. Moreover, such design offers great hydraulic performance allowing this product to be used in liquid cooling systems using weaker water pumps.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Thank you very much!
> 
> Still looking forward to your disassembly this weekend Disposable7, if you're still willing.


Oh i am morethan willing, i can't wait to start, but unfortunatly no package arrived today









There is a good chance it will arrive tomorrow, then i'll get to it right away and post pictures here. Otherwise i'll have to postpone it to next weekend.

EDIT:
OK, DHL just send me an e-mail: delivery confirmed for tomorrow between 12 am and 4 pm, YEAY!


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Thats sad to hear, but ...
> 
> A PSU isn't automaticaly a quality one because it's branded "Corsair". Sadly the PSU-market is kinda complicated, with lots of brands, but only a couple of actual manufacturers that produce PSU's for the brands. The RM550x you mentioned is (unfortunatly) made by Channel Well (CWT), who are known to make mediocre to underwhelming PSUs in terms of overall quality, noise, ripple and stability of the delivered currents. On top of that, this PSU is "only" certified 80Plus gold, which means that it will linger somewhere around 80% efficency on full load.
> 
> Not to hurt you, but i wouldn't call the RM550x a quality PSU. The realy good ones are made by Seassonic or SuperFlower, with a margin to almost anything else. In conclusion, yes, when buying a PSU of lesser quality, you have to buy higher advertised wattage to be on the safe side. How to find out which PSU are good? Realy not easy these days, as you can't just pick a brand and be good, since all the brands have different suppliers/manufacturers for their different models of PSUs. Corsair buys from Seasonic for their AX series, but CWT for the RM series ... this is similar with many other brands.
> 
> You also might want to take a read here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1455892/why-you-might-not-want-to-buy-a-corsair-rm-psu
> 
> So, whoever talked you into getting a 550watts PSU wasn't completly wrong, but he should have warned you also that there are 550watt PSUs that are good, and a whole lot of 550watt PSUs taht are crappy. Telling you that a 550watts PSU is enough is only half the truth without giving you a certain model that will actualy deliver what it promises.
> 
> But on another note, your other threads indicate that you are/were having other major problems with your system in general, not shutting down correctly etc.. This could indicate a general problem with your PSU, it might not only be of lesser quality, but actualy broken if it does not correctly correpsonds to ATX shutdown.


I wound up getting an evga 1000w g3. Went up from an evga nex750g. I didn't have any issues with the 750 but I knew I'd have the pay for at least 10 years as the warranty is that long. Might be overkill for a single card but my system is stable with a 7700k at 5ghz 1.36v and aorus 1080ti xtreme at 2037 1.050 volts. Although recently I dropped to 2000mhz 1.0 volts just to have lower temps.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Usually, it does ... however on the EK website they state taht for this coolers design, they did something that would make it irrelevent in which direction you have the water flowing through it:


Man I'm so excited to see how these cards perform under water.. I live in the states but chose the most expensive shipping option so i get it ASAP. Already have my Fujipoly Extreme pads and Kryonaut paste to accompany the block. I'll be doing extensive testing, all which will be posted here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> I wound up getting an evga 1000w g3. Went up from an evga nex750g. I didn't have any issues with the 750 but I knew I'd have the pay for at least 10 years as the warranty is that long. Might be overkill for a single card but my system is stable with a 7700k at 5ghz 1.36v and aorus 1080ti xtreme at 2037 1.050 volts. Although recently I dropped to 2000mhz 1.0 volts just to have lower temps.


I'm still using my Evga G2 1300w from my trifire crossfire setup that I'm using for only my 6700k and 1080 Ti (and peripherals). Love it!


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Both the BIOS are the same in term of power if you max out the slider. If you aren't touching the power limit, the F3 has a higher default power limit so it is 'more clocked' than F4. I think that's how it works?


Hi, I am just tweaking and testing the non-Xtreme version. I had BIOS F3 and with TDP slider to the max in Furmark stress test 2560x1440 with 4X MSAA I got max 119 TDP when slightly overclocked (2000 MHz when 100% load).

When I flashed the AH BIOS to F4 and moved the slider up, overclocked to 2050 MHz, I now see 137%-141% TDP, it seems it's capable to draw more power now.


----------



## TucoPacifico

*** Wrongly posted ***


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> I returned mine as would not keep advertised OC clocks without crashing. Got an msi gaming x. Seems like a good card and at least I can reach 2000 MHz without crashing. At least I can sell this one in the future, gigabyte did not keep its advertised clocks so not a good reseller option.


U got a bad one bro, my non-Xtreme keeps 2025-2050 MHz and memory on 11280 MHz on a probably 7-9-year old Tagan 600W PSU coped with i7 6700K with standard F4 BIOS and TDP slider on 150%


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> U got a bad one bro, my non-Xtreme keeps 2025-2050 MHz and memory on 11280 MHz on a probably 7-9-year old Tagan 600W PSU coped with i7 6700K with standard F4 BIOS and TDP slider on 150%


Woah nice! You saved money and lost pretty much nothing then


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> U got a bad one bro, my non-Xtreme keeps 2025-2050 MHz and memory on 11280 MHz on a probably 7-9-year old Tagan 600W PSU coped with i7 6700K with standard F4 BIOS and TDP slider on 150%


Wait, so regular aorus can hit the 150% too? Wow, 30 bucks for a bird led lol oh well not much money after paying 700+


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Wait, so regular aorus can hit the 150% too? Wow, 30 bucks for a bird led lol oh well not much money after paying 700+


I can see a difference in TDP afte rBIOS update from F3 to F4. It hovered around 119% TDP before, now it flies around 140% when stressing it. The peak, with no voltage tweaks, seems to be 2025-2050. Going up from that results in Furmark crashing after ~1 minute.

Passmark9 3D score is from 16160-16270


----------



## TucoPacifico

Now I have a weird problem. I play a heavy modded Morrowind @1440p. The card scales and drops to 712 MHz frequently, resulting in performance drops down to 27-30 FPS.
But, when I record the gameplay with OBS Studio, like here: 



 - Than the card runs at 2000+ MHz and gameplay is always smooth.
I tried to play a video with a video player in the background to keep the card kbusy but it still happened. Only when I record with OBS, then it plays smooth... The game is from 2002. Is there another way of keeping the card on the high clock?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> I can see a difference in TDP afte rBIOS update from F3 to F4. It hovered around 119% TDP before, now it flies around 140% when stressing it. The peak, with no voltage tweaks, seems to be 2025-2050. Going up from that results in Furmark crashing after ~1 minute.
> 
> Passmark9 3D score is from 16160-16270


FYI:

F3 Bios: 100% powertarget is 300 watts. So full slider to 125% means 375 watts.
F4 Bios: 100% powertarget is 250 watts. So full slider to 150% means 375 watts.

That also means that 120% power target on an F3 Bios is exactly the same as 144% on an F4 Bios, both equals 360 watts.

There is no magic increase in your cards ability to handle more watts with any of the bioses, they just shifted the base power and accordingly the percentage to reach 375 watts changed from 125% up to 150%. The top poweroutput of the card will always be 375 watts.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> FYI:
> 
> F3 Bios: 100% powertarget is 300 watts. So full slider to 125% means 375 watts.
> F4 Bios: 100% powertarget is 250 watts. So full slider to 150% means 375 watts.
> 
> That also means that 120% power target on an F3 Bios is exactly the same as 144% on an F4 Bios, both equals 360 watts.
> 
> There is no magic increase in your cards ability to handle more watts with any of the bioses, they just shifted the base power and accordingly the percentage to reach 375 watts changed from 125% up to 150%. The top poweroutput of the card will always be 375 watts.


Thank you for explaining this in a way that is easy to understand. The misleading fact for me was that Furmark showed 119% and 141% respectively.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> EDIT:
> OK, DHL just send me an e-mail: delivery confirmed for tomorrow between 12 am and 4 pm, YEAY!


It's 4:40 pm, still no package


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Holy crap I got a shipping notification from EK today for the Aorus block and backplate. I thought they weren't going to start shipping until Wednesday??? It's already in Philadelphia, PA!!! I guess that's what you get when you pay $50 for shipping. Looks like it's not going to arrive until Wednesday. I am SO EXCITED right now. Water is so close!!!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Holy crap I got a shipping notification from EK today for the Aorus block and backplate. I thought they weren't going to start shipping until Wednesday??? It's already in Philadelphia, PA!!! I guess that's what you get when you pay $50 for shipping. Looks like it's not going to arrive until Wednesday. I am SO EXCITED right now. Water is so close!!!


Awesome









Looking forward to seeing your in-depth unboxing, build and review with lots of photos in here


----------



## JabbaWalker

In MSI Afterburner and AORUS graphics engine the core voltage is shown as 0 and I can not adjust it, in CPUID HWMonitor its ok. Yes, I enabled voltage adjustment in settings.


----------



## ForNever

Incredibly jealous. Picked the cheap option...

Please please, a thorough install riddled with pics, and before/after temps? Suuuuuuure wish VRM's had temp sensors!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looking forward to seeing your in-depth unboxing, build and review with lots of photos in here


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Incredibly jealous. Picked the cheap option...
> 
> Please please, a thorough install riddled with pics, and before/after temps? Suuuuuuure wish VRM's had temp sensors!


Will definitely post lots of pics. Going to be throwing fujipoly extreme pads and kryonaut paste on the card. Absolutely can't wait to see how these cards perform under water. I'll start the baseline tests tomorrow. My card already runs pretty cool. Max temp I've ever seen is 64C, but during benching and demanding games the max I usually see is 60/61C.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JabbaWalker*
> 
> In MSI Afterburner and AORUS graphics engine the core voltage is shown as 0 and I can not adjust it, in CPUID HWMonitor its ok. Yes, I enabled voltage adjustment in settings.


Download Afterburner beta 6 or above. That has voltage unlocked for 1080 Ti's by default. Just search google for "afterburner 4.4.4 beta 6 overclock.net" and you should be able to find a link to download it.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Will definitely post lots of pics. Going to be throwing fujipoly extreme pads and kryonaut paste on the card. Absolutely can't wait to see how these cards perform under water. I'll start the baseline tests tomorrow. My card already runs pretty cool. Max temp I've ever seen is 64C, but during benching and demanding games the max I usually see is 60/61C.
> Download Afterburner beta 6 or above. That has voltage unlocked for 1080 Ti's by default. Just search google for "afterburner 4.4.4 beta 6 overclock.net" and you should be able to find a link to download it.


I heared a lot of people talk about fujipoly pads, they seem to very good/popular. Unfortunatly i haven't found any etailer in my country offering them. Are they much better than the Thermal Grizzly pads?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Dropped to 2012 MHz towards the end of the test, standard voltages non-Xtreme Aorus. My settings are 1750/11250, 150% TDP max. Very solid card.
EDIT: Next up is delidding the i7







. Shame on Intel for the goo. I get 76 Celsius at 4200 MHz with Noctua NH-D14


----------



## kbk_75

That's not bad, but not great. I scored 6237 with my non xtreme card and I'm still running a 2600k!


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbk_75*
> 
> That's not bad, but not great. I scored 6237 with my non xtreme card and I'm still running a 2600k!


Good score! What are your clocks/TDP/ settings? And are you running the default cooling or water?


----------



## kbk_75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Good score! What are your clocks/TDP/ settings? And are you running the default cooling or water?


Thanks, was the fastest Sandy on the leaderboard until some dude with a 2700K showed up! Card was at 2050 Core / 6166 Mem / 125% (on the older bios which =150% on the latest one) and it's running Standard cooler.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbk_75*
> 
> Thanks, was the fastest Sandy on the leaderboard until some dude with a 2700K showed up! Card was at 2050 Core / 6166 Mem / 125% (on the older bios which =150% on the latest one) and it's running Standard cooler.


I upped the RAM to 12000 and ran the bench again, with custom a bit more aggressive fan curve and got 6100, not a big difference. The core went down from 2050 to 2012 during the test.


----------



## kbk_75

2012 at the end of the test is a decent core speed. I think mine was dropping to 1999 if I recall correctly. Does your core go higher, like maybe as high as 2075-2100? That should properly thrash my score then, though I did have the memory up at 6166 (12333). You might also wanna run 100% fan speed just for the benchmark and see if that makes a difference. Also my 2600K was running at 4.8GHz for that benchmark, so it's possible your CPU needs to go a little higher as well. That 2600K is BY FAR the best PC component I have ever bought in 30 years of building PCs myself!


----------



## XcroN

Hi guys i'm having some weird issue with my Aorus 1080 ti Xtreme edition.
Windows 10 Pro creators update, Latest WHQL Driver, Latest MSI AB beta that supports voltage on the 1080 ti.
I changed the power limit to 150% and i'm having random crashes in overwatch with error "rendering device lost".
No other changes to AB, just raised the power limit.
Overwatch seems to be the only game affected here as other games that i play runs fine.
My power setting in the driver is adaptive.

Tried to reinstall the OS, same thing.
Latest WHQL Driver made the crashes less happened but they are still here.
Windows event log says driver stopped and successfully recovered.

Should i RMA the card or it's a known issue and the card is not to blame?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbk_75*
> 
> 2012 at the end of the test is a decent core speed. I think mine was dropping to 1999 if I recall correctly. Does your core go higher, like maybe as high as 2075-2100? That should properly thrash my score then, though I did have the memory up at 6166 (12333). You might also wanna run 100% fan speed just for the benchmark and see if that makes a difference. Also my 2600K was running at 4.8GHz for that benchmark, so it's possible your CPU needs to go a little higher as well. That 2600K is BY FAR the best PC component I have ever bought in 30 years of building PCs myself!




Managed to go 1760 MHz /12100 MHz, ruesulting with 2069 MHz core at the start, 2050 at the end, with end score 6242







.


----------



## smaiderman

Hello.

First of all, excuse me if my english is not perfect.

I recently got this beauty, and I want to ask some questions.

Which is the best way to controll fan speeds? Im having issues with the aorus engine. It sometimes doesn´t start fans, even if the card is at 90º (two or three times that the game started shuttering and I realized no fan was working)









Also, since the last patch of pubg, the card started coilwhinning, don´t know why, and its getting me crazy. It didn´t make the noise in any scenario, but now it does sometimes (loadscreen of games for example)

Can you advice me?

edit:
Maybe info of interest

I7 7700k + Phanteks TC14PE
Asus rog maximus ix formula
RM850i 850W
Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 PC-24000 16GB
Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 SSD PCI-e 500GB
Aorus Geforce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB

Thank you!


----------



## kbk_75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> 
> 
> Wow that's still only 5 points more than my score. Only thing I can think of is your CPU not being overclocked high enough. Though, to be honest, how much is a couple of percent gonna matter in real world use? These are great GPUs!
> 
> Managed to go 1760 MHz /12100 MHz, ruesulting with 2069 MHz core at the start, 2050 at the end, with end score 6242
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XcroN*
> 
> Hi guys i'm having some weird issue with my Aorus 1080 ti Xtreme edition.
> Windows 10 Pro creators update, Latest WHQL Driver, Latest MSI AB beta that supports voltage on the 1080 ti.
> I changed the power limit to 150% and i'm having random crashes in overwatch with error "rendering device lost".
> No other changes to AB, just raised the power limit.
> Overwatch seems to be the only game affected here as other games that i play runs fine.
> My power setting in the driver is adaptive.
> 
> Tried to reinstall the OS, same thing.
> Latest WHQL Driver made the crashes less happened but they are still here.
> Windows event log says driver stopped and successfully recovered.
> 
> Should i RMA the card or it's a known issue and the card is not to blame?


Overwatch is picky with overclocks especially unstable ones where the clockrat fluctuates. I got that message any time I overclocked the founders card. It couldn't hit 1987 without crashing even under aio water. I had to play stock. Now with the aorus I'm fine. Dial back your oc and see if that helps.


----------



## b0nn1n

Hello all!

I have the same card but not TI, Aorus 1080 Xtreme and I have a few questions about...

What is the normal temperature? Because I'm playing ark and the temperature is 75C with 95-100 gpu usage and scares me, If i touch the blackplate burns my finger xD So...Is this the normal temperature?

And also fans too loud...

Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smaiderman*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> First of all, excuse me if my english is not perfect.
> 
> I recently got this beauty, and I want to ask some questions.
> 
> Which is the best way to controll fan speeds? Im having issues with the aorus engine. It sometimes doesn´t start fans, even if the card is at 90º (two or three times that the game started shuttering and I realized no fan was working)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since the last patch of pubg, the card started coilwhinning, don´t know why, and its getting me crazy. It didn´t make the noise in any scenario, but now it does sometimes (loadscreen of games for example)
> 
> Can you advice me?
> 
> edit:
> Maybe info of interest
> 
> I7 7700k + Phanteks TC14PE
> Asus rog maximus ix formula
> RM850i 850W
> Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 PC-24000 16GB
> Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 SSD PCI-e 500GB
> Aorus Geforce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB
> 
> Thank you!


I would recommend ditching (ceasing the use of) the gigabyte software after setting LED's up the way you want. I use MSI Afterburner with a custom fan profile, and it's been working great!


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> Hello all!
> 
> I have the same card but not TI, Aorus 1080 Xtreme and I have a few questions about...
> 
> What is the normal temperature? Because I'm playing ark and the temperature is 75C with 95-100 gpu usage and scares me, If i touch the blackplate burns my finger xD So...Is this the normal temperature?
> 
> And also fans too loud...
> 
> Thanks in advance and sorry for my bad english.


Backplate can be 60C+ that's quite hot for hands to touch. Not to mention aorus cards have that copper part that's intended to draw heat to the backplate, so I'd avoid touching it.

As for temps, that's within safe range and probably normal if you haven't made a custom fan curve. Also, ambient temps and case airflow matter with these types of cards. My case is a nzxt s340 and it is terrible for airflow unless I take off the front panel. Temps went from 74 to 65.


----------



## smaiderman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> I would recommend ditching (ceasing the use of) the gigabyte software after setting LED's up the way you want. I use MSI Afterburner with a custom fan profile, and it's been working great!


Thank you very much. I´ll follow your advice.


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Backplate can be 60C+ that's quite hot for hands to touch. Not to mention aorus cards have that copper part that's intended to draw heat to the backplate, so I'd avoid touching it.
> 
> As for temps, that's within safe range and probably normal if you haven't made a custom fan curve. Also, ambient temps and case airflow matter with these types of cards. My case is a nzxt s340 and it is terrible for airflow unless I take off the front panel. Temps went from 74 to 65.


I have a corsair 400c so I have front panel too....I have the gpu in the first pcie but I'm thinking to move to the second but It will hasn't too space for the fans...but yes for the heatsink...What do you think?

Also I don't have custom fan curve, only automatic using aorus xtreme gaming engine and one thing more...I never be in fan stop mode, also browsing internet...


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> I have a corsair 400c so I have front panel too....I have the gpu in the first pcie but I'm thinking to move to the second but It will hasn't too space for the fans...but yes for the heatsink...What do you think?
> 
> Also I don't have custom fan curve, only automatic using aorus xtreme gaming engine and one thing more...I never be in fan stop mode, also browsing internet...


Open the side panel of the case and see if temps go down. It might be time for a case with better airflow. I'm shopping around too.


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Open the side panel of the case and see if temps go down. It might be time for a case with better airflow. I'm shopping around too.


The problem is that this corsair is new, but I can change it for another, Maybe a cooler master mastercase 5 but I like the corsair, and they said that it would has very good airflow due to lateral airtakes


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> I would recommend ditching (ceasing the use of) the gigabyte software after setting LED's up the way you want. I use MSI Afterburner with a custom fan profile, and it's been working great!


Hello,

This custom curve makes a lot of loud, right?

Thanks.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Holy crap I got a shipping notification from EK today for the Aorus block and backplate. I thought they weren't going to start shipping until Wednesday??? It's already in Philadelphia, PA!!! I guess that's what you get when you pay $50 for shipping. Looks like it's not going to arrive until Wednesday. I am SO EXCITED right now. Water is so close!!!


sweet, dude! FINALLY, huh?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbk_75*
> 
> 2012 at the end of the test is a decent core speed. I think mine was dropping to 1999 if I recall correctly. Does your core go higher, like maybe as high as 2075-2100? That should properly thrash my score then, though I did have the memory up at 6166 (12333). You might also wanna run 100% fan speed just for the benchmark and see if that makes a difference. Also my 2600K was running at 4.8GHz for that benchmark, so it's possible your CPU needs to go a little higher as well. That 2600K is BY FAR the best PC component I have ever bought in 30 years of building PCs myself!


Managed to go 1760 MHz /12100 MHz, ruesulting with 2069 MHz core at the start, 2050 at the end, with end score 6242 biggrin.gif.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kbk_75*
> 
> 2012 at the end of the test is a decent core speed. I think mine was dropping to 1999 if I recall correctly. Does your core go higher, like maybe as high as 2075-2100? That should properly thrash my score then, though I did have the memory up at 6166 (12333). You might also wanna run 100% fan speed just for the benchmark and see if that makes a difference. Also my 2600K was running at 4.8GHz for that benchmark, so it's possible your CPU needs to go a little higher as well. That 2600K is BY FAR the best PC component I have ever bought in 30 years of building PCs myself!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> This custom curve makes a lot of loud, right?
> 
> Thanks.


Yeah, so we do banchmarks with all fans at 100%. Now I understand. Now, when doing benchmark with 1760/12200 one of the leds went up informing the card aint get enough power from PSU. The one I did from two molex to 8pin (old Tagan 600W PSU with two 12V lanes).

As I plan to delid my i7 6700K soon, I will be getting a Enermax 800W power supply with one 12V lane. Then I can get much more points in the benchmark with the CPU overclocked hopefully to at least 4.7 GHz.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smaiderman*
> 
> Hello.
> 
> First of all, excuse me if my english is not perfect.
> 
> I recently got this beauty, and I want to ask some questions.
> 
> Which is the best way to controll fan speeds? Im having issues with the aorus engine. It sometimes doesn´t start fans, even if the card is at 90º (two or three times that the game started shuttering and I realized no fan was working)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, since the last patch of pubg, the card started coilwhinning, don´t know why, and its getting me crazy. It didn´t make the noise in any scenario, but now it does sometimes (loadscreen of games for example)
> 
> Can you advice me?
> 
> edit:
> Maybe info of interest
> 
> I7 7700k + Phanteks TC14PE
> Asus rog maximus ix formula
> RM850i 850W
> Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 PC-24000 16GB
> Samsung 960 EVO NVMe M.2 SSD PCI-e 500GB
> Aorus Geforce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB
> 
> Thank you!


I think I found the reason for the damn Aorus software not working right. When you save your customized fan curve and then restart PC and it loads, only the first 3 points in the curve graph are remembered! I set mine with 5 points and the third was on 42% fan speed at 50 Celsius. Then, after restarting computer, when the temp went above 50 celsius, it STAYED AT 42% FAN SPEED!!

When using only 3 curve points, the last one being at 100% fan speed, all works fine.

Shame on Gigabyte for letting out such a crap. Got to report it to them.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smaiderman*
> 
> Thank you very much. I´ll follow your advice.


Also make sure you UNINSTALL the Aorus software and also download MSI Afterburner Beta 6 or later so voltage control is unlocked without any tweaking needed. Here is the link:

MSI Afterburner Beta 6.

In other news, UPS shows my block and backplate as leaving Philadelphia an hour ago and my delivery day has updated to Tuesday! So after work on Tuesday I should have this card under water. Get ready for lots of pictures! Did some baseline tests today. Superposition 1080p Extreme 1.081v @ 2088/+300 mem I scored 6177. Held 2088 throughout the entire test. Temps maxed at 51C. I'm running a 6700k @ 4.5Ghz. Seems like people are scoring higher than me on the 1080p Extreme test. Might be the CPU? Anyways I'm going to do a baseline run of SuperPosition 4k extreme which really heats up the card. I usually see around 59-60C at the end of that test.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Also make sure you UNINSTALL the Aorus software and also download MSI Afterburner Beta 6 or later so voltage control is unlocked without any tweaking needed. Here is the link:
> 
> MSI Afterburner Beta 6.Did some baseline tests today. Superposition 1080p Extreme 1.081v @ 2088/+300 mem I scored 6177. Held 2088 throughout the entire test. Temps maxed at 51C. I'm running a 6700k @ 4.5Ghz. Seems like people are scoring higher than me on the 1080p Extreme test. Might be the CPU? Anyways I'm going to do a baseline run of SuperPosition 4k extreme which really heats up the card. I usually see around 59-60C at the end of that test.


It's not your CPU. I have 6700K @4.2 GHz and scored 6242 today.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> The problem is that this corsair is new, but I can change it for another, Maybe a cooler master mastercase 5 but I like the corsair, and they said that it would has very good airflow due to lateral airtakes


I find that unobstructed front intake is better for airflow than side slits or vents. Look for a case with perforated front vents like the obsidian or graphite from corsair if you want to stick with that brand. You could always. 74 isn't bad for a quiet setup though.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> It's not your CPU. I have 6700K @4.2 GHz and scored 6242 today.


Hmmm that's strange maybe I'm due for a clean OS installation.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Here's with my standard fan settings (20% fan up to 39 Celsius, then straight line up to 65 Celsius and 100% fan), standard case fan settings. Core 1760, Memory 12000 MHz. Core started at 2050, went down to 2037. Score 6241. Very good. And my old Tagan 600W can still handle it. CPU i7 6700K @4.2 GHz, 16GB HypreX Savage 2400 MHz CL12 DDR4. Non-Xtreme Aorus.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Here's with my standard fan settings (20% fan up to 39 Celsius, then straight line up to 65 Celsius and 100% fan), standard case fan settings. Core 1760, Memory 12000 MHz. Core started at 2050, went down to 2037. Score 6241. Very good. And my old Tagan 600W can still handle it. CPU i7 6700K @4.2 GHz, 16GB HypreX Savage 2400 MHz CL12 DDR4. Non-Xtreme Aorus.


Hmm I'm running a gigabyte g1 gaming 7, [email protected] 4.5Ghz, 16Gb of DDR3 3400Mhz Ram. I wonder what the difference in scores is about.


----------



## XcroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Overwatch is picky with overclocks especially unstable ones where the clockrat fluctuates. I got that message any time I overclocked the founders card. It couldn't hit 1987 without crashing even under aio water. I had to play stock. Now with the aorus I'm fine. Dial back your oc and see if that helps.


I'm running the "Gaming Mode" by gigabyte as i didn't played with core clock at all, just raised power limit to 150% and no more in AB.
Card hits 1974mhz till like 69c and then throttles to 1950s area.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> I find that unobstructed front intake is better for airflow than side slits or vents. Look for a case with perforated front vents like the obsidian or graphite from corsair if you want to stick with that brand. You could always. 74 isn't bad for a quiet setup though.


The most golden would be a side fan but those are borderline impossible to find these days.


----------



## Elefantito

I repasted my Xtreme tonight, and I saw something mildly interesting :

1) There is some glue like stuff on the die which won't come off. I believe @Douse saw something similar on his card.

2) The PCB seems to have two clearly distinct shades of black (weird, right?)


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Elefantito*
> 
> I repasted my Xtreme tonight, and I saw something mildly interesting :
> 
> 1) There is some glue like stuff on the die which won't come off. I believe @Douse saw something similar on his card.
> 
> 2) The PCB seems to have two clearly distinct shades of black (weird, right?)


The glue stuff is the residue nanocoating they put on the PCB to make water resistant


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The glue stuff is the residue nanocoating they put on the PCB to make water resistant


You know how there's a segment of the population that gets all mushy about cats playing with toilet paper rolls, dogs begging for food at the table, etc.

well I just got a warm fuzzy feeling about that line. "...they put a nano coating over the PCB to make it water resistant?" dawwww


----------



## TucoPacifico

If I take off the cooling off the Aorus GTX 1080 Ti to apply CoolLab Liquid Metal, is the warranty gone?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> If I take off the cooling off the Aorus GTX 1080 Ti to apply CoolLab Liquid Metal, is the warranty gone?


Yes, whether the RMA guys can prove it is another matter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> You know how there's a segment of the population that gets all mushy about cats playing with toilet paper rolls, dogs begging for food at the table, etc.
> 
> well I just got a warm fuzzy feeling about that line. "...they put a nano coating over the PCB to make it water resistant?" dawwww


The scary part is it actually works too. Theres a youtube video of a dude who poured coolant on his Aorus which was running. The GPU obviously resisted it but even when the water did short the board, he just wiped off the coolant and the GPU was back to normal.

The Nano coating (its basically Lacquer) also stops the water that gets on the board from spreading. The droplets kinda stay as droplets.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> If I take off the cooling off the Aorus GTX 1080 Ti to apply CoolLab Liquid Metal, is the warranty gone?


there aren't any tamper wvident stickers or warranty void stickers on it so i dont think openin the card void the warranty. CLU might. Just use something to cover all the vulnerable bits like liquid electric tape


----------



## DisposableHero7

TEASER:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> If I take off the cooling off the Aorus GTX 1080 Ti to apply CoolLab Liquid Metal, is the warranty gone?


That depends









In general, Gigabyte allows for the change of the cooling solution as long as

A:
The new cooling solution is adequate and can at least transfer the same amount of heat or more than what the original cooler can.
B:
You did not damage the card physically in the process of changing the cooler and the card must not get damaged due to a malfunction of the aftermarket cooler.

So your question would fall under B. If your newly applied LiquidMetal gets anywhere it shouldn't be and causes a short circuit, thats your fault and the guarantee is void. If you applied the LM thoughtfully and something else brakes, you can still RMA tha card.

BUT, Gigabyte also requires you to put the card into it's original state before sending it in. That means you have to reassamble the original cooler and should probably use a normal, non-conductive paste for that.

I have a reference link for this from computerbase.de. Unfortunatly for many here, the site is completly in german, but if people are interessted, i might give a translation for certain interesting parts:
https://www.computerbase.de/2016-09/grafikkarten-garantie-vergleich/


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright around this time tomorrow I'll finally have my side panel on again and this card will be under water! Lot's of pics coming once I get out of work tomorrow. Here is the last pic before it's underwater. It looks like 2076 at 1.093v is my max stable OC on air. Can't wait to see how cool the card gets under water.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> TEASER:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That depends
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In general, Gigabyte allows for the change of the cooling solution as long as
> 
> A:
> The new cooling solution is adequate and can at least transfer the same amount of heat or more than what the original cooler can.
> B:
> You did not damage the card physically in the process of changing the cooler and the card must not get damaged due to a malfunction of the aftermarket cooler.
> 
> So your question would fall under B. If your newly applied LiquidMetal gets anywhere it shouldn't be and causes a short circuit, thats your fault and the guarantee is void. If you applied the LM thoughtfully and something else brakes, you can still RMA tha card.
> 
> BUT, Gigabyte also requires you to put the card into it's original state before sending it in. That means you have to reassamble the original cooler and should probably use a normal, non-conductive paste for that.
> 
> I have a reference link for this from computerbase.de. Unfortunatly for many here, the site is completly in german, but if people are interessted, i might give a translation for certain interesting parts:
> https://www.computerbase.de/2016-09/grafikkarten-garantie-vergleich/


Thank you for the very precise explanation.
Today I spoke to the Polish retailer X-Kom.pl, where I bought the card. They said, it is them who are the warrant and they do not allow dismantling the cooling and warranty is void. If this is the case, I would not fall under Gigabyte's international warranty, but under their dumass warranty. I will contact them again and show the comparison and ask further. Maybe I can ignore the Polish retailer and go to directly to Gigabyte if sthing happens?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Thank you for the very precise explanation.
> Today I spoke to the Polish retailer X-Kom.pl, where I bought the card. They said, it is them who are the warrant and they do not allow dismantling the cooling and warranty is void. If this is the case, I would not fall under Gigabyte's international warranty, but under their dumass warranty. I will contact them again and show the comparison and ask further. Maybe I can ignore the Polish retailer and go to directly to Gigabyte if sthing happens?


You could try and contact Gigabyte directly and ask them about the guarrantee-terms for you country here: http://www.gigabyte.de/Support/Technical-Support#. You might be required to create a Gigabyte Passport, but they should be able to answer how Gigabyte handles guarrantie / warranty (2 different things!!) for your country.

Warranty:
A legal regulation, defining what retailers MUST offer customers who have a bad product. In Germany e.g., vendors must repair or exchange damaged products within 24 month after purchase. However, after 6 month, the customer has to proof he didn't damage the product (possibly by an experts report). Within the first 6 month, the vendor would have to proof that the customer damaged the product. The legal warranty is usualy independant of ownership as long as the orignal papers (invoice) are available. So even if a product is sold to another privat person within the first 24 months, the new owner can rely on the warranty. (All based on German jurisdiction - no clue about Polish jurisdiction)

Guarantee:
A voluntary offer by the manufacturer OR in some cases even vendors. In contrast to the legal warranty, the terms of a guarantee are soley defined by the party offering it, be it the manufacturer or the vendor. They define how long it is, in which cases it applies, in which it doesn't and to whom it applies. Most guarantees are only valid for the first buyer/owner and are void if the product is sold to a third party. Usualy a guarantee exceeds 2 years (at least here in GER), because the first 2 years are covered by legal warranty.

Guarantees are a way for manufacturers/vendors to say: "We are so sure of our product, we extend service beyond the legal warranty of 24 months to emphasise how good it is! We are sure it will not break down in the first 4 years (by intended use), and if it does we will repair or replace it!"

So while your etailer is the one who has to cover you within the 24 month warranty, i guess they can deny any modifications to the product. However, if the manufacturer officialy allows changing the cooler, chaning it would still be "operating it as intended" - in which case the vendor would have to service it. But this route might lead to a lot of hassle and end before a court. To avoid that, i would try to clearify with Gigabyte directly if you are allowed to change the cooler in Poland, and if they will handle any RMA cases themselves, even within the 24 month legal warranty time.


----------



## Dasboogieman

After one friggin day, the surgery was successful. Aorus + CPU are now together in one loop. Also got rid of the weedy 70L/hr Alphacool pump and got a proper D5.

GPU temps are now <40 pretty much at all times (unless the CPU is also fully loaded). As expected for 16nm FinFet, 2100mhz is now stable and 12500mhz VRAM, also gained about 25-30W of TDP headroom (partly from removed fans and partly from colder temps for everything). Funny thing is, my Supo score has gone down but its probably a driver thing. Too tired to care now.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one friggin day, the surgery was successful. Aorus + CPU are now together in one loop. Also got rid of the weedy 70L/hr Alphacool pump and got a proper D5.
> 
> GPU temps are now <40 pretty much at all times (unless the CPU is also fully loaded). As expected for 16nm FinFet, 2100mhz is now stable and 12500mhz VRAM, also gained about 25-30W of TDP headroom (partly from removed fans and partly from colder temps for everything). Funny thing is, my Supo score has gone down but its probably a driver thing. Too tired to care now.


Awesome! My block is out for delivery!


----------



## b0nn1n

Hi all!

Could you please help me to revert the settings to stock in my aorus 1080 xtreme?

I'm using aorus xtreme engine but the default values are in gaming mode, and I reach 75C playing the game "ARK" so...I think that it is too much...

PD: Maybe undervolt the card?
I also have gelid xtreme thermal paste to replace the original.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Awesome! My block is out for delivery!


One tip for the screws. Don't be a mullet like me and use the good long screws for the ports below the backplate. Use the short ish screws first, then apply the backplate with padding THEN use the long screws to secure the backplate to the block. Otherwise, the tolerance is so tight you gotta really press down on the card to get the screw to mate.

EK had terrible install instructions.


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Could you please help me to revert the settings to stock in my aorus 1080 xtreme?
> 
> I'm using aorus xtreme engine but the default values are in gaming mode, and I reach 75C playing the game "ARK" so...I think that it is too much...
> 
> PD: Maybe undervolt the card?
> I also have gelid xtreme thermal paste to replace the original.


Up, please help owners


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Could you please help me to revert the settings to stock in my aorus 1080 xtreme?
> 
> I'm using aorus xtreme engine but the default values are in gaming mode, and I reach 75C playing the game "ARK" so...I think that it is too much...
> 
> PD: Maybe undervolt the card?
> I also have gelid xtreme thermal paste to replace the original.


I thought that gaming mode, i.e. 1607 core, was the default for the xtreme. Do you want to switch to silent mode or just run cooler?
Why not just turn up the fan speeds?


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> I thought that gaming mode, i.e. 1607 core, was the default for the xtreme. Do you want to switch to silent mode or just run cooler?
> Why not just turn up the fan speeds?


Fans speed and on now...and too loud...

I'm thinking to change the thermal paste for the gelid xtreme that I had but ...¿what are the normal load temperatures of this cards? I think that 71-76 is too hot...


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> Hi all!
> 
> Could you please help me to revert the settings to stock in my aorus 1080 xtreme?
> 
> I'm using aorus xtreme engine but the default values are in gaming mode, and I reach 75C playing the game "ARK" so...I think that it is too much...
> 
> PD: Maybe undervolt the card?
> I also have gelid xtreme thermal paste to replace the original.


Again, it's not recommended to use the Gigabyte software outside of setting up the LED's how you want. Most people here use MSI Afterburner with a custom fan profile in order to keep temps low. Gaming mode is the default mode the Aorus uses, so you are already at stock settings. If you are not satisfied with the temps after setting up a custom fan profile, then try "Silent" mode (down clock your card to below stock values).


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Again, it's not recommended to use the Gigabyte software outside of setting up the LED's how you want. Most people here use MSI Afterburner with a custom fan profile in order to keep temps low. Gaming mode is the default mode the Aorus uses, so you are already at stock settings. If you are not satisfied with the temps after setting up a custom fan profile, then try "Silent" mode (down clock your card to below stock values).


Yep but down clock my card....is not the best.

I tried a custom fan curve for a user of this thread but it's too loud...could you please share a fan curve?

Before I had a 1070 xtreme gaming and I never can hear the fans...and the temp was always under 65.

Thanks!


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one friggin day, the surgery was successful. Aorus + CPU are now together in one loop. Also got rid of the weedy 70L/hr Alphacool pump and got a proper D5.
> 
> GPU temps are now <40 pretty much at all times (unless the CPU is also fully loaded). As expected for 16nm FinFet, 2100mhz is now stable and 12500mhz VRAM, also gained about 25-30W of TDP headroom (partly from removed fans and partly from colder temps for everything). Funny thing is, my Supo score has gone down but its probably a driver thing. Too tired to care now.


nice, bro
!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> Yep but down clock my card....is not the best.
> 
> I tried a custom fan curve for a user of this thread but it's too loud...could you please share a fan curve?
> 
> Before I had a 1070 xtreme gaming and I never can hear the fans...and the temp was always under 65.
> 
> Thanks!


Hi,
75°C are quite ususal for an AORUS 1080ti Xtreme in "Gaming"-Mode with the stock fan curve Gigabyte set. Comparing it with your older 1070 Xtreme gaming 8G is kinda apples and pears, since the 1070 is a midrange card, running 7.2 bilion transistors that draw somewhere between 180-220 watts max. while under full load, depending on the game. The AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme has 12 bilion transistors drawing up to 375 watts. Thats 1.6666 times the amount of transistors and 1.7 times the amount of power it consumes. All that has to be cooled down, by essentially the same cooler on both cards!

What you get for all this is a card that performs roughly 66-100% faster than the 1070, depending on the game and settings. All of this comes with a price: heat. So while you don't have to be nervouse (75°C is the defined heat target Gigabytedesigned the card for), if you want your card cooler, you have 3 options.

1:
Set a steeper, more aggressive fan curve. This will give you mediocre to good cooling improvements in exchange for louder fan noise.

2:
Repaste your card with better thermal compound and pads. This allone will give you only minute improvements to the cards overall temperatures. (As i will show in my re-tim comming up here).

3:
Change to a dedicated water cooling loop with better thermal compound and pads. This will give you the best results, but at the highest costs.

Besides that, there is only one other way to get a cooler card , underclock it. But then why did you change from a 1070 to a 1080ti in the first place?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After one friggin day, the surgery was successful. Aorus + CPU are now together in one loop. Also got rid of the weedy 70L/hr Alphacool pump and got a proper D5.
> 
> GPU temps are now <40 pretty much at all times (unless the CPU is also fully loaded). As expected for 16nm FinFet, 2100mhz is now stable and 12500mhz VRAM, also gained about 25-30W of TDP headroom (partly from removed fans and partly from colder temps for everything). Funny thing is, my Supo score has gone down but its probably a driver thing. Too tired to care now.


That looks brutaly cool








Uhm .... wait! Does this happen to be CoolerMaster HAF-X case? I can't see much of it, but it sure looks damn close to my case!









Now i am very tempted to look into watercooling again myself. Years ago i had a very dedicated set of AquaComputer cooling equipment, but since the advent of the core2duo and than Core i7, there never realy was much urge to go "under water". But these numbers for your TI Xtreme realy speak for themselves. I am almost done with the repaste of my TI Xtreme under air, and the results are ... kinda what had to be expected. Only changing the TIM and pads ain't moving mountains.

Talking about your Superposition score, thats normal. 1080TI is strangly synchronized with its RAM and many people have reported that there are "sweet spots" for the clock multiplier between them. When rising RAM clocks, you will notice improved performance first, but if you exceed a certain threshold, performance drops somewhat. Going further up, performance will slowly imrove again, until you reach the next "step" and performance drops again. So if you cannot up your RAM clocks any further, try going down in small uncrements until you will see a sudden, strange increase in performance, even while going down with the clocks!


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Talking about your Superposition score, thats normal. 1080TI is strangly synchronized with its RAM and many people have reported that there are "sweet spots" for the clock multiplier between them. When rising RAM clocks, you will notice improved performance first, but if you exceed a certain threshold, performance drops somewhat. Going further up, performance will slowly imrove again, until you reach the next "step" and performance drops again. So if you cannot up your RAM clocks any further, try going down in small uncrements until you will see a sudden, strange increase in performance, even while going down with the clocks!


Found my sweet spot for the time being. My old Tagan 600W still not exploding, 12000 MHz on mem and 1760 MHz base core clock

EDIT: (boosting to 2062 MHz, falling off to 2050),

...did the test on all case fans and GPU fans at 100% - best result sofar, better then I had on higher mem clocks: 6251 in 1080p Extreme SuperPosition. This are the values I game on now with air cooling and i7 6700K @4.2 GHz.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright so I'm at home waiting for UPS to drop the block off. I've drained the loop and covered the card with Fujipoly Extreme pads. Trying to get as much done beforehand as possible.


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hi,
> 75°C are quite ususal for an AORUS 1080ti Xtreme in "Gaming"-Mode with the stock fan curve Gigabyte set. Comparing it with your older 1070 Xtreme gaming 8G is kinda apples and pears, since the 1070 is a midrange card, running 7.2 bilion transistors that draw somewhere between 180-220 watts max. while under full load, depending on the game. The AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme has 12 bilion transistors drawing up to 375 watts. Thats 1.6666 times the amount of transistors and 1.7 times the amount of power it consumes. All that has to be cooled down, by essentially the same cooler on both cards!
> 
> What you get for all this is a card that performs roughly 66-100% faster than the 1070, depending on the game and settings. All of this comes with a price: heat. So while you don't have to be nervouse (75°C is the defined heat target Gigabytedesigned the card for), if you want your card cooler, you have 3 options.
> 
> 1:
> Set a steeper, more aggressive fan curve. This will give you mediocre to good cooling improvements in exchange for louder fan noise.
> 
> 2:
> Repaste your card with better thermal compound and pads. This allone will give you only minute improvements to the cards overall temperatures. (As i will show in my re-tim comming up here).
> 
> 3:
> Change to a dedicated water cooling loop with better thermal compound and pads. This will give you the best results, but at the highest costs.
> 
> Besides that, there is only one other way to get a cooler card , underclock it. But then why did you change from a 1070 to a 1080ti in the first place?


Hello and thank you very much for your reply.

You're right, underclock the card is stupid, but only undervolt? Maybe we can reduce some degrees with the same stability?

I don't have a dedicated water cooling system...if I can buy an AIO water cooling system for the card it will be fine...

I have the aorus 1080 xtreme edition, not TI but I guess that the temps are the same...

I have gelid xtreme thermal paste, maybe this will do something? Is not a metal thermal paste...

I'm thinking to change my card for the msi 1080 seahawk x but i'm not sure because I haven't coil whine in this card and maybe will get coilwhine in the msi, but is AIO water cooled.

Thank you very much again mate


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Alright so I'm at home waiting for UPS to drop the block off. I've drained the loop and covered the card with Fujipoly Extreme pads. Trying to get as much done beforehand as possible.


The desperation is real bahaha


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> The desperation is real bahaha


This wait is killing me. Is estimated for delivery between 2-6pm and its 4:20 now. I need it!

Edit: 5pm. Still nothing. Halp me!


----------



## clarifiante

hi guys i have 2 of these cards and im having trouble OCing, my cards won't go past 2038 core clock, im using the wildcard to unlock voltage limit which is at the max and using a custom curve, if i set it anywhere higher than 2038, it ignores the curve and sticks at 2038.

clean install of nvidia driver. afterburner 4.3, downgraded from 4.4 beta10 because i thought itwas the beta issue but evidently nopt


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Holy batman these blocks are no joke! I'm seeing a 23C drop in temps! 39C MAX. Also, I can now run 2100 at 1.081v which is something I could not do before. Here is a bench with Superposition 4k Optimized, 2101 core and 6107 memory. Max temps was 39C. Water temp is 23.5C. Also, no more hitting the Power Perfcap. Seems like getting rid of those fans and LED's gave me some more headroom.



Forgot the good camera at my GF's place so I apologize for the cell phone pics.




Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!












@Dasboogieman you were totally right about the backplate. What a PITA to get on. I ended up having to use no plastic washers to feed the screws through. They really need to include longer screws for the backplate.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Re-TIMing (-pasting) the Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme - PART 1: Active Side

I have finaly finished the first part of repasting my TI Xtreme with "Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut" for the GPU and "Thermal Grizzly minus pad 8" for the RAM, VRM and MOSFets. "First part" because while beeing at it, i had to realize that i didn't order enough pads to change the ones under the backplate as well







Thats right, so this "first part" only shows how to change the TIM and pads on the actively cooled side of the card beneath the Windforce cooler, and as such only shows the benefits of that-half hearted attempt. Results of this endeavour are not quite astonishing, but lets get started and see for yourself:

The "Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut" paste is considered to be the best non-metalic TIM on the market atm. Along with it i ordered some "minus pad 8" from the same manufacturer:


And here is todays subject, the *"Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme Edition"*, about to be operated on its open heart










To get to the point of interest, we first have to remove the big "Windforce" cooler, which is achieved by unscrewing the 7 marked screws on the back of the card:


Now, we can carefully and slowly pull on the cooler until it detaches from the card - only to be held back by the powercords for the fans and the RGB LEDs. Fortunatly we don't need to unplug all the cables, but only the 2 shown in the following picture. Be sure NOT(!) to pull at the cables! Use a small flat-head screwdriver to gently push the plug from its socket or use small pincers to pull them out. You can leave the other 2 cables attached and just turnover the cooler as in the picture:


At this point, i'd advise to first clean the copper heatsink and the GPU DIE from the old TIM Gigabyte used. It is a grey paste, alot like Gelid GC-extreme or Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut in consistency and color. You can use papertowels from the kitchen for removing the bulk of it, but for the real cleaning i'd advice using a lint-free microfiber cloth and cleaning alcohol. While i was cleaning my GPU, i came across a gift Gigabyte left on it that put me in a short outburst of rage and incomprehension: beneath the TIM, the DIE was unevenly covered with a very hard and almost imperishable residue of some sort, almost like varnish or hardened glue. It seems that someone at Gigabyte thought it was a clever idea to cover the DIE of the GPU with the same nanocoating thats meant to cover and protect the PCB. Oh, and this stuff is not only on the GPU, it is everywhere, even on the RAMs and all other components:


After about 30 minutes of rubbing it with cleaning alcohol, scratching parts of it off with my bare fingernails and finaly scrubbing it off with an old, soft toothbrush, i had a nice, clean and shiney GPU DIE:


Ok, after that cleaning-frenzy we're back to the interesting stuff. Before covering the GPU with "Kryonaut" and smudging everything with it, we first exchange all the thermal pads so we have that out of the way. I made notes for the various sizes and thicknesses of pads needed:


A good idea for applying the pads is to only remove the protective foil on the underside and put all the pads on first. Only remove the top protective foil once you are about to finaly reattach the cooler again. This way you avoid getting any dirt onto the pads. But DON'T forget to remove all the protective foils before putting the cooler back on









A:
These pads are for the RAM. Each of the rectangles is exactly 20mm x 68mm in size and 2mm thick. As you can see, i had to patchwork one of the pads. If you do that, make sure you have the cut exactly in the middle, so it will be in a gap and not on a RAM module!

B:
This long, thin pad is for the first row of VRM-modules, MOSFets i believe. It is 9mm x 100mm in size. The orignal one from Gigabyte was 1.5mm thick, but since i didnt have any pads of that thickness, i used a 2mm thick pad. The "minus pad 8" are somewhat softer than the orignal grey/white ones, so this isn't a problem. I first cut the pad to general shape, applied it and only then cut out the small dent for the screwsocket.

C:
These are 2 small pads, each 9mm x 45mm in size and 1mm thick. They are for the row of big, grey chokes.

D:
This is the largest pad. It covers the VRM-chips and another row of MOSfets. It is 20mm x 100mm in size and 3mm thick. As with the pad for the first row of MOSfets, i first only cut the general size, applied it and then cut out the dents for the 2 screwsockets.

E:
This is the pad for the rightmost MOSfets on the card. It is exactly 12mm x 26mm in size and 2mm thick. Make sure it closes exactly with the metal plate it sits on the left side, otherwise it will overlap with the F-pad, we dont want that!!

F:
This is a pad that covers 2 more chokes on the card. The pad is somewhat larger (like the original) than the chokes are. It is 12mm x 28mm in size and 1mm thick. Make sure it closes exactly with the chokes on the right side, or else it will overlap with the E-pad and we don't want that!!

After having placed all the pads, it's time to cover the GPU with a thin layer of "Kryonaut". The syringe comes with an attachable applicator with a broad, soft tip that helps spread the paste evenly on the DIE:


With a little bit of patience, the GPU should look like this when it is thinly coverd with the paste. According to the "Thermal Grizzly" instructions, the layer of paste shouldn't be too thin. If you can see the DIE trough the paste at any spot, spread it there again until the complete DIE is covered in an evenly thin layer of paste:


Now it's time to remove all of the remaining protective foils from all the thermal pads and reattach the cooler. Before actually pressing the cooler into the pads, hold it close to the card and plug in the 2 connectors for the fans and RGB LEDs. Once the cooler is attached, it's impossible to plug in the connectors, you have to do this first! Once you plugged in the connectors, slowly approach the cooler to the card, making sure the screwholes and sockets all align. Once you are sure all the holes align, press the cooler into the pads and tighten all the screws in a cross-wise manner.

So, after all this fiddling around with screws, plugs, pads and paste, here are the preliminary results. They are a bit chastening though, it seems the TIM and pads Gigabyte uses are already of a very good quality.

*The test system:*
Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.6 GHz (@1.355 vcore)
Asus ROG Maximus VIII Hero Mainboard
32 GB DDR4 RAM, 4x 8GB G.Skill TridentZ, 3200MHz, 16-16-16-36
Corsair AX860 modular ATX PSU
Windows 10 Professional on a Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD

Everything resides in a CoolerMaster HAF-X case. Front (230mm) and side (200mm) fan push air into the case. In the top is a 280mm radiator and 2 140mm fans are pushing air through the radiator into the case. Finaly a 140mm fan on the backside pushes out air. The cooling is set up for overpressure inside the case and front to back airflow, supported by side and top fans. The PSU is built in with one fan facing down, pulling air from underneath the case and pushing it out at the back, so it is completly decoupled from the airflow inside the case.

For getting on even grounds for the various test, i had all the system fans running at 100% all the time as well as the GPU fans, regardless of other settings. To make testing a bit more interesting and compare the effectivnes of the repaste at different clocks, i used 3 different OC-settings for the card:

*1: "Gaming Mode"*
This is an exact copy of the AGE "Game" mode, set through MSI AB:
No extra vcore
100% power limit
84°C temp limit
No extra core clocks
No extra ram clocks
FanSpeed 100%

*2: "OC Mode"*
This is an exact copy of the AGE "OC" mode, set through MSI AB:
No extra vcore
125% power limit (F3 Bios - 375 watts theoratical)
84°C temp limit
+25 MHz core clocks
+108 MHz ram clocks
FanSpeed 100%

*3: "Extreme Mode"*
This in an individualy set overclock, on the brink of (or exceeding) stability:
+100% vcore
125% power limit (F3 Bios - 375 watts theoretical)
84°C temp limit
+40 MHz core clocks
+384 MHz ram clocks
FanSpeed 100%

Ambient temperature was monitored all the time and always close to 22°C. Differences in ambient temp. where applied as a delta to all measurments. After each test, the system was idling for roughly 10 minutes to get back to the idle temps of 29°C.

*The measurements:*

*Superposition benchmark, "1080p Extreme" - preset*
This benchmark was run once, highest temp. and lowest clocks where recorded.

Stock paste & pads:
Game-Mode: 60°C, 1999 MHz
OC-Mode: 60°C, 2012 MHz
Extreme-Mode: 64°C, 2025 MHz

Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
Game-Mode: 59°C, 2012 MHz
OC-Mode: 59°C, 2025 MHz
Extreme-Mode: 63°C, 2062 MHz

*Heaven benchmark, ultra/extreme settings, 1080p*
This benchmark ran for 5 minutes,which is about 1,5 cycles. Highest temp and lowest clocks recorded.

Stock paste & pads:
Game-Mode: 66°C, 1974 MHz
OC-Mode: 66°C, 1987 MHz
Extreme-Mode: crashed after less then 1 minute

Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
Game-Mode: 63°C, 1987 MHz
OC-Mode: 63°C, 2000 MHz
Extreme-Mode: crashed after about 3 minutes

*Valley benchmark, Extreme preset, 1080p*
This benchmark ran for 5 minutes,which is about 1,5 cycles. Highest temp and lowest clocks recorded.

Stock paste & pads:
Game-Mode: 62°C, 1987 MHz
OC-Mode: 62°C, 1999 MHz
Extreme-Mode: 65°C, 2012 MHz (studdering occured)

Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
Game-Mode: 60°C, 2000 MHz
OC-Mode: 60°C, 2025 MHz
Extreme-Mode: 63°C, 2063 MHz (studdering occured)

*3DMark - Fire Strike Ultra Stress Test*
This stress test runs a part of the FireStrike benchmark, loops 20 times.

Stock paste & pads:
Game-Mode: 67°C, 1886 MHz (heavily fluctuating clocks all the time)
OC-Mode: 72°C, 1936 MHz (crashed on 6th loop)
Extreme-Mode: crashed on the first loop

Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
Game-Mode: 65°C, 1898 MHz (heavily fluctuating clocks all the time)
OC-Mode: 70°C, 1987 MHz (crashed on 14th loop)
Extreme-Mode: crashed on the first loop

*FurMark GPU stress test*
1280*720, 8xMSAA, 10 minutes. Highest temp and lowest clock recorded.

Stock paste & pads:
Game-Mode: 64°C, 1987 MHz
OC-Mode: 65°C, 1999 MHz
Extreme-Mode: 65°C, 2063 MHz (crashed after 4 minutes)

Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
Game-Mode: 63°C, 1987 MHz
OC-Mode: 64°C, 1999 MHz
Extreme-Mode: 65°C, 2050 MHz (crashed after 6 minutes)

*Conclusion:*
Well .... while there is a measurable difference here from changing to Kryonaut & minus pad 8's, i would conclude that it does not justify the cost and effort put into it. This might be due to the fact i did not change the pads on the backplate, but since others have already stated that the backplate is more a stability support than an active cooling component, i doubt that changing these pads whil have any noticable effect. Superposition, Heaven, Valley and FireStrike all show a slight decrease in temps. while at the same time the GPU goes up one clock-step. At the same time, Heaven and FireStrike show that there are obviously stability issues at the Extreme-Settings, but also already at the "OC"-Mode, at least in FireStrike. The oddest result came from FurMark. No step up on the clocks and only 1°C less then with the stock paste could be measurment errors. Stability issues here as well with the extreme setting, however the card made it a bit further with the new paste.

The next thing i will try is using "Conductonaut" liquid metal paste instead of Kryonaut for the GPU, but this will take a few days. I might consider changing the pads under the backplate while i am at it, but not sure yet. I hope you enjoyed the pictures and the read.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hi,
> 75°C are quite ususal for an AORUS 1080ti Xtreme in "Gaming"-Mode with the stock fan curve Gigabyte set. Comparing it with your older 1070 Xtreme gaming 8G is kinda apples and pears, since the 1070 is a midrange card, running 7.2 bilion transistors that draw somewhere between 180-220 watts max. while under full load, depending on the game. The AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme has 12 bilion transistors drawing up to 375 watts. Thats 1.6666 times the amount of transistors and 1.7 times the amount of power it consumes. All that has to be cooled down, by essentially the same cooler on both cards!
> 
> What you get for all this is a card that performs roughly 66-100% faster than the 1070, depending on the game and settings. All of this comes with a price: heat. So while you don't have to be nervouse (75°C is the defined heat target Gigabytedesigned the card for), if you want your card cooler, you have 3 options.
> 
> 1:
> Set a steeper, more aggressive fan curve. This will give you mediocre to good cooling improvements in exchange for louder fan noise.
> 
> 2:
> Repaste your card with better thermal compound and pads. This allone will give you only minute improvements to the cards overall temperatures. (As i will show in my re-tim comming up here).
> 
> 3:
> Change to a dedicated water cooling loop with better thermal compound and pads. This will give you the best results, but at the highest costs.
> 
> Besides that, there is only one other way to get a cooler card , underclock it. But then why did you change from a 1070 to a 1080ti in the first place?


totally concur. I really like the cooler and look of this monster so I went with A & B. Sits between 55c-63c depending on the game, now.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hi,
> 75°C are quite ususal for an AORUS 1080ti Xtreme in "Gaming"-Mode with the stock fan curve Gigabyte set. Comparing it with your older 1070 Xtreme gaming 8G is kinda apples and pears, since the 1070 is a midrange card, running 7.2 bilion transistors that draw somewhere between 180-220 watts max. while under full load, depending on the game. The AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme has 12 bilion transistors drawing up to 375 watts. Thats 1.6666 times the amount of transistors and 1.7 times the amount of power it consumes. All that has to be cooled down, by essentially the same cooler on both cards!
> 
> What you get for all this is a card that performs roughly 66-100% faster than the 1070, depending on the game and settings. All of this comes with a price: heat. So while you don't have to be nervouse (75°C is the defined heat target Gigabytedesigned the card for), if you want your card cooler, you have 3 options.
> 
> 1:
> Set a steeper, more aggressive fan curve. This will give you mediocre to good cooling improvements in exchange for louder fan noise.
> 
> 2:
> Repaste your card with better thermal compound and pads. This allone will give you only minute improvements to the cards overall temperatures. (As i will show in my re-tim comming up here).
> 
> 3:
> Change to a dedicated water cooling loop with better thermal compound and pads. This will give you the best results, but at the highest costs.
> 
> Besides that, there is only one other way to get a cooler card , underclock it. But then why did you change from a 1070 to a 1080ti in the first place?


totally concur. I really like the cooler and look of this monster so I went with A & B. Sits between 55c-63c depending on game.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Holy batman these blocks are no joke! I'm seeing a 23C drop in temps! 39C MAX. Also, I can now run 2100 at 1.081v which is something I could not do before. Here is a bench with Superposition 4k Optimized, 2101 core and 6107 memory. Max temps was 39C. Water temp is 23.5C. Also, no more hitting the Power Perfcap. Seems like getting rid of those fans and LED's gave me some more headroom.
> 
> 
> 
> Forgot the good camera at my GF's place so I apologize for the cell phone pics.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @Dasboogieman you were totally right about the backplate. What a PITA to get on. I ended up having to use no plastic washers to feed the screws through. They really need to include longer screws for the backplate.


super sexy, my dude.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Re-TIMing (-pasting) the Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme - PART 1: Active Side
> 
> I have finaly finished the first part of repasting my TI Xtreme with "Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut" for the GPU and "Thermal Grizzly minus pad 8" for the RAM, VRM and MOSFets. "First part" because while beeing at it, i had to realize that i didn't order enough pads to change the ones under the backplate as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats right, so this "first part" only shows how to change the TIM and pads on the actively cooled side of the card beneath the Windforce cooler, and as such only shows the benefits of that-half hearted attempt. Results of this endeavour are not quite astonishing, but lets get started and see for yourself:
> 
> The "Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut" paste is considered to be the best non-metalic TIM on the market atm. Along with it i ordered some "minus pad 8" from the same manufacturer:
> 
> 
> And here is todays subject, the *"Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 TI Xtreme Edition"*, about to be operated on its open heart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To get to the point of interest, we first have to remove the big "Windforce" cooler, which is achieved by unscrewing the 7 marked screws on the back of the card:
> 
> 
> Now, we can carefully and slowly pull on the cooler until it detaches from the card - only to be held back by the powercords for the fans and the RGB LEDs. Fortunatly we don't need to unplug all the cables, but only the 2 shown in the following picture. Be sure NOT(!) to pull at the cables! Use a small flat-head screwdriver to gently push the plug from its socket or use small pincers to pull them out. You can leave the other 2 cables attached and just turnover the cooler as in the picture:
> 
> 
> At this point, i'd advise to first clean the copper heatsink and the GPU DIE from the old TIM Gigabyte used. It is a grey paste, alot like Gelid GC-extreme or Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut in consistency and color. You can use papertowels from the kitchen for removing the bulk of it, but for the real cleaning i'd advice using a lint-free microfiber cloth and cleaning alcohol. While i was cleaning my GPU, i came across a gift Gigabyte left on it that put me in a short outburst of rage and incomprehension: beneath the TIM, the DIE was unevenly covered with a very hard and almost imperishable residue of some sort, almost like varnish or hardened glue. It seems that someone at Gigabyte thought it was a clever idea to cover the DIE of the GPU with the same nanocoating thats meant to cover and protect the PCB. Oh, and this stuff is not only on the GPU, it is everywhere, even on the RAMs and all other components:
> 
> 
> After about 30 minutes of rubbing it with cleaning alcohol, scratching parts of it off with my bare fingernails and finaly scrubbing it off with an old, soft toothbrush, i had a nice, clean and shiney GPU DIE:
> 
> 
> Ok, after that cleaning-frenzy we're back to the interesting stuff. Before covering the GPU with "Kryonaut" and smudging everything with it, we first exchange all the thermal pads so we have that out of the way. I made notes for the various sizes and thicknesses of pads needed:
> 
> 
> A good idea for applying the pads is to only remove the protective foil on the underside and put all the pads on first. Only remove the top protective foil once you are about to finaly reattach the cooler again. This way you avoid getting any dirt onto the pads. But DON'T forget to remove all the protective foils before putting the cooler back on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A:
> These pads are for the RAM. Each of the rectangles is exactly 20mm x 68mm in size and 2mm thick. As you can see, i had to patchwork one of the pads. If you do that, make sure you have the cut exactly in the middle, so it will be in a gap and not on a RAM module!
> 
> B:
> This long, thin pad is for the first row of VRM-modules, MOSFets i believe. It is 9mm x 100mm in size. The orignal one from Gigabyte was 1.5mm thick, but since i didnt have any pads of that thickness, i used a 2mm thick pad. The "minus pad 8" are somewhat softer than the orignal grey/white ones, so this isn't a problem. I first cut the pad to general shape, applied it and only then cut out the small dent for the screwsocket.
> 
> C:
> These are 2 small pads, each 9mm x 45mm in size and 1mm thick. They are for the row of big, grey chokes.
> 
> D:
> This is the largest pad. It covers the VRM-chips and another row of MOSfets. It is 20mm x 100mm in size and 3mm thick. As with the pad for the first row of MOSfets, i first only cut the general size, applied it and then cut out the dents for the 2 screwsockets.
> 
> E:
> This is the pad for the rightmost MOSfets on the card. It is exactly 12mm x 26mm in size and 2mm thick. Make sure it closes exactly with the metal plate it sits on the left side, otherwise it will overlap with the F-pad, we dont want that!!
> 
> F:
> This is a pad that covers 2 more chokes on the card. The pad is somewhat larger (like the original) than the chokes are. It is 12mm x 28mm in size and 1mm thick. Make sure it closes exactly with the chokes on the right side, or else it will overlap with the E-pad and we don't want that!!
> 
> After having placed all the pads, it's time to cover the GPU with a thin layer of "Kryonaut". The syringe comes with an attachable applicator with a broad, soft tip that helps spread the paste evenly on the DIE:
> 
> 
> With a little bit of patience, the GPU should look like this when it is thinly coverd with the paste. According to the "Thermal Grizzly" instructions, the layer of paste shouldn't be too thin. If you can see the DIE trough the paste at any spot, spread it there again until the complete DIE is covered in an evenly thin layer of paste:
> 
> 
> Now it's time to remove all of the remaining protective foils from all the thermal pads and reattach the cooler. Before actually pressing the cooler into the pads, hold it close to the card and plug in the 2 connectors for the fans and RGB LEDs. Once the cooler is attached, it's impossible to plug in the connectors, you have to do this first! Once you plugged in the connectors, slowly approach the cooler to the card, making sure the screwholes and sockets all align. Once you are sure all the holes align, press the cooler into the pads and tighten all the screws in a cross-wise manner.
> 
> So, after all this fiddling around with screws, plugs, pads and paste, here are the preliminary results. They are a bit chastening though, it seems the TIM and pads Gigabyte uses are already of a very good quality.
> 
> *The test system:*
> Intel Core i7 6700K @ 4.6 GHz (@1.355 vcore)
> Asus ROG Maximus VIII Hero Mainboard
> 32 GB DDR4 RAM, 4x 8GB G.Skill TridentZ, 3200MHz, 16-16-16-36
> Corsair AX860 modular ATX PSU
> Windows 10 Professional on a Samsung 950 Pro M.2 SSD
> 
> Everything resides in a CoolerMaster HAF-X case. Front (230mm) and side (200mm) fan push air into the case. In the top is a 280mm radiator and 2 140mm fans are pushing air through the radiator into the case. Finaly a 140mm fan on the backside pushes out air. The cooling is set up for overpressure inside the case and front to back airflow, supported by side and top fans. The PSU is built in with one fan facing down, pulling air from underneath the case and pushing it out at the back, so it is completly decoupled from the airflow inside the case.
> 
> For getting on even grounds for the various test, i had all the system fans running at 100% all the time as well as the GPU fans, regardless of other settings. To make testing a bit more interesting and compare the effectivnes of the repaste at different clocks, i used 3 different OC-settings for the card:
> 
> *1: "Gaming Mode"*
> This is an exact copy of the AGE "Game" mode, set through MSI AB:
> No extra vcore
> 100% power limit
> 84°C temp limit
> No extra core clocks
> No extra ram clocks
> FanSpeed 100%
> 
> *2: "OC Mode"*
> This is an exact copy of the AGE "OC" mode, set through MSI AB:
> No extra vcore
> 125% power limit (F3 Bios - 375 watts theoratical)
> 84°C temp limit
> +25 MHz core clocks
> +108 MHz ram clocks
> FanSpeed 100%
> 
> *3: "Extreme Mode"*
> This in an individualy set overclock, on the brink of (or exceeding) stability:
> +100% vcore
> 125% power limit (F3 Bios - 375 watts theoretical)
> 84°C temp limit
> +40 MHz core clocks
> +384 MHz ram clocks
> FanSpeed 100%
> 
> Ambient temperature was monitored all the time and always close to 22°C. Differences in ambient temp. where applied as a delta to all measurments. After each test, the system was idling for roughly 10 minutes to get back to the idle temps of 29°C.
> 
> *The measurements:*
> 
> *Superposition benchmark, "1080p Extreme" - preset*
> This benchmark was run once, highest temp. and lowest clocks where recorded.
> 
> Stock paste & pads:
> Game-Mode: 60°C, 1999 MHz
> OC-Mode: 60°C, 2012 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: 64°C, 2025 MHz
> 
> Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
> Game-Mode: 59°C, 2012 MHz
> OC-Mode: 59°C, 2025 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: 63°C, 2062 MHz
> 
> *Heaven benchmark, ultra/extreme settings, 1080p*
> This benchmark ran for 5 minutes,which is about 1,5 cycles. Highest temp and lowest clocks recorded.
> 
> Stock paste & pads:
> Game-Mode: 66°C, 1974 MHz
> OC-Mode: 66°C, 1987 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: crashed after less then 1 minute
> 
> Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
> Game-Mode: 63°C, 1987 MHz
> OC-Mode: 63°C, 2000 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: crashed after about 3 minutes
> 
> *Valley benchmark, Extreme preset, 1080p*
> This benchmark ran for 5 minutes,which is about 1,5 cycles. Highest temp and lowest clocks recorded.
> 
> Stock paste & pads:
> Game-Mode: 62°C, 1987 MHz
> OC-Mode: 62°C, 1999 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: 65°C, 2012 MHz (studdering occured)
> 
> Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
> Game-Mode: 60°C, 2000 MHz
> OC-Mode: 60°C, 2025 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: 63°C, 2063 MHz (studdering occured)
> 
> *3DMark - Fire Strike Ultra Stress Test*
> This stress test runs a part of the FireStrike benchmark, loops 20 times.
> 
> Stock paste & pads:
> Game-Mode: 67°C, 1886 MHz (heavily fluctuating clocks all the time)
> OC-Mode: 72°C, 1936 MHz (crashed on 6th loop)
> Extreme-Mode: crashed on the first loop
> 
> Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
> Game-Mode: 65°C, 1898 MHz (heavily fluctuating clocks all the time)
> OC-Mode: 70°C, 1987 MHz (crashed on 14th loop)
> Extreme-Mode: crashed on the first loop
> 
> *FurMark GPU stress test*
> 1280*720, 8xMSAA, 10 minutes. Highest temp and lowest clock recorded.
> 
> Stock paste & pads:
> Game-Mode: 64°C, 1987 MHz
> OC-Mode: 65°C, 1999 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: 65°C, 2063 MHz (crashed after 4 minutes)
> 
> Kryonaut & minus pad 8:
> Game-Mode: 63°C, 1987 MHz
> OC-Mode: 64°C, 1999 MHz
> Extreme-Mode: 65°C, 2050 MHz (crashed after 6 minutes)
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> Well .... while there is a measurable difference here from changing to Kryonaut & minus pad 8's, i would conclude that it does not justify the cost and effort put into it. This might be due to the fact i did not change the pads on the backplate, but since others have already stated that the backplate is more a stability support than an active cooling component, i doubt that changing these pads whil have any noticable effect. Superposition, Heaven, Valley and FireStrike all show a slight decrease in temps. while at the same time the GPU goes up one clock-step. At the same time, Heaven and FireStrike show that there are obviously stability issues at the Extreme-Settings, but also already at the "OC"-Mode, at least in FireStrike. The oddest result came from FurMark. No step up on the clocks and only 1°C less then with the stock paste could be measurment errors. Stability issues here as well with the extreme setting, however the card made it a bit further with the new paste.
> 
> The next thing i will try is using "Conductonaut" liquid metal paste instead of Kryonaut for the GPU, but this will take a few days. I might consider changing the pads under the backplate while i am at it, but not sure yet. I hope you enjoyed the pictures and the read.


Yeah I did conductonaut back when my card was on air. It was maybe 3 degrees or so advantage over Kryo. I thought about doing it for the block but its dangerous as hell on this PCB I actually spilled a bit and it got under VRAM #4 BGA, I did manage to blast it out with canned air but damn it was a close call. Because this PCB has a lacquer waterproofing on the PCB, when you remove the conductonaut, it leaves these tiny metallic droplets behind on the PCB that can potentially crawl under a BGA VRAM mouunt or get in between one of those micro SMD capacitors. If you wanna use conductonaut, you gotta apply liquid electrical tape over the entry to the VRAM BGA and the GPU BGA, plus most of the surrounding components.
In the end, the threat of killing my card meant I went with Kryo for the waterblock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> That looks brutaly cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Uhm .... wait! Does this happen to be CoolerMaster HAF-X case? I can't see much of it, but it sure looks damn close to my case!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now i am very tempted to look into watercooling again myself. Years ago i had a very dedicated set of AquaComputer cooling equipment, but since the advent of the core2duo and than Core i7, there never realy was much urge to go "under water". But these numbers for your TI Xtreme realy speak for themselves. I am almost done with the repaste of my TI Xtreme under air, and the results are ... kinda what had to be expected. Only changing the TIM and pads ain't moving mountains.
> 
> Talking about your Superposition score, thats normal. 1080TI is strangly synchronized with its RAM and many people have reported that there are "sweet spots" for the clock multiplier between them. When rising RAM clocks, you will notice improved performance first, but if you exceed a certain threshold, performance drops somewhat. Going further up, performance will slowly imrove again, until you reach the next "step" and performance drops again. So if you cannot up your RAM clocks any further, try going down in small uncrements until you will see a sudden, strange increase in performance, even while going down with the clocks!


Yeah its a CM HAF 932 vintage edition. I got this 5 years ago in the hopes of watercooling Hawaii but I only got round to it now. If anything, this didn't fit as many rads as I would like and theres no pump/tube rez mount (makes sense because 5.25inch bay rezzes were all the rage back then). I'm considering upgrading to the Enthoo Prime pro so I can get a decent amount of 360 + 360 +240 so I can pull the CPU below 65 degrees.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*


cpu, eh? wha5t kind? do you like it?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> cpu, eh? wha5t kind? do you like it?


7700k Delidded. Its pretty good for what I'm using it for, I think I scored an average clocker (5ghz -2AVX offset, 1.36V, essentially the same as you would get from Silicon Lottery) but the IMC is well bwlow average. It actually cannot do XMP 3733mhz DDR4 and it cannot do x47+ L3 multiplier. Mmmm I have a theory that if I can pull this chip below 60 degrees I might get another 200mhz or so.

With my current RAM settings, it more or less matches the 5775c so I'm happy with it. Although, I wouldn't mind a few more cores down the road.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 7700k Delidded. Its pretty good for what I'm using it for, I think I scored an average clocker (5ghz -2AVX offset, 1.36V, essentially the same as you would get from Silicon Lottery) but the IMC is well bwlow average. It actually cannot do XMP 3733mhz DDR4 and it cannot do x47+ L3 multiplier. Mmmm I have a theory that if I can pull this chip below 60 degrees I might get another 200mhz or so.
> 
> With my current RAM settings, it more or less matches the 5775c so I'm happy with it. Although, I wouldn't mind a few more cores down the road.


aint nothin wrong with that, other than the unlucky imc pull. still beating everything else.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> *Conclusion:*
> Well .... while there is a measurable difference here from changing to Kryonaut & minus pad 8's, i would conclude that it does not justify the cost and effort put into it. This might be due to the fact i did not change the pads on the backplate, but since others have already stated that the backplate is more a stability support than an active cooling component, i doubt that changing these pads whil have any noticable effect. Superposition, Heaven, Valley and FireStrike all show a slight decrease in temps. while at the same time the GPU goes up one clock-step. At the same time, Heaven and FireStrike show that there are obviously stability issues at the Extreme-Settings, but also already at the "OC"-Mode, at least in FireStrike. The oddest result came from FurMark. No step up on the clocks and only 1°C less then with the stock paste could be measurment errors. Stability issues here as well with the extreme setting, however the card made it a bit further with the new paste.
> 
> The next thing i will try is using "Conductonaut" liquid metal paste instead of Kryonaut for the GPU, but this will take a few days. I might consider changing the pads under the backplate while i am at it, but not sure yet. I hope you enjoyed the pictures and the read.


Great post mate. Very informative. Although, I am surprised that you didn't see more of a temp drop. But it looks like your original paste job was A class according to Gigabyte standards. I was nearly hitting 70 degrees in my benches etc, so I saw around a 7 degree drop for me.

I am also surprised with your instability, even with the re-paste







Have you tried overclocking just the core to see if the RAM is the culprit?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Found my sweet spot for the time being. My old Tagan 600W still not exploding, 12000 MHz on mem and 1760 MHz base core clock
> 
> EDIT: (boosting to 2062 MHz, falling off to 2050),
> [...]


Uhm, are you sure? 1760 MHz BASE core clock? Our card has a 1607 base clock in "Gaming" & 1632 MHz base clock in "OC" mode. 1760 MHz is the estimated BOOST clock when the base clock is set to 1646MHz (+39MHz in MSI AB). And thats on the very brink of stability for my card. How do you get +153 MHz in MSI AB on the core clock without blowing your card up?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Great post mate. Very informative. Although, I am surprised that you didn't see more of a temp drop. But it looks like your original paste job was A class according to Gigabyte standards. I was nearly hitting 70 degrees in my benches etc, so I saw around a 7 degree drop for me.
> 
> I am also surprised with your instability, even with the re-paste
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Have you tried overclocking just the core to see if the RAM is the culprit?


Yeah, i will look into the stability issues today. They might also stem from my new CPU overclock to 4.6GHz i did in the last week. I thought it to be stable after hours of running "Prime95" CPU torture, but it might still be too much if the whole system is under heavy load. I'll revert back to 4.5GHz and less vcore on my CPU and than play around with clocks and volts for the GPU to find my cards "sweet spot".


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> Hello guys. i have the 1080ti extreme edition. I set the power limit to 125% (max). I did not touch anything else (with the aorus software from gigabyte) , and also a fan curve , my temps don't get higher than 66. Boost mode reaches somewhere between 1980-2030- even 2080.But it kind of stays at around 2000 most of times. I played shadow warrior 2 , residnet evil 7 , no problems. But i got some problems in Mafia 3 , artefacts i may say , like triangles black white , big ones . not all the time , from time to time. But i read on the forums , a lot of people are compaining about this game , that it's a problem with the game?glitches?


Hello mate! Could you please share your fan curve or your full configuration in aorus gigabyte? I'm with temps like 72-75C in Aorus 1080 NON TI Extreme.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## bloodindark

here it is


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> here it is


Thank you very much!


----------



## b0nn1n

Regarding the AIO water coolers, anyone knows any solution to add to my aorus 1080 ? I saw on internet people who bought an AIO kit and install the cpu cooler into the gpu chip. I've never heard something about this.


----------



## bloodindark

basically 35c with 35% and 65c with 100%. note that i have an open case. with 5 http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-3000-pwm. all of them with pwm curve made by me. something like 35c with 35% and 65c with 65% , i can go to maybe 80% max but it will become more like an airoplane.1 fan in front blowing air on the hard disks , one in front of videocard , on in front of the power suplly , on on the cpu heatsink , an one on the back. . sorry for bad quality. its with the smartphone. PS: you wont see the fan from the front of the drives from that position. also chimney fro mthe top of the case is removed so its wide open now , also front doors removed , and the other side panel removed. i have insect mesh (as adust filter) which works really well ! on top , front and on the sides which i "connected" them with magnets







)


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bloodindark*
> 
> basically 35c with 35% and 65c with 100%. note that i have an open case. with 5 http://noctua.at/en/nf-a14-industrialppc-3000-pwm. all of them with pwm curve made by me. something like 35c with 35% and 65c with 65% , i can go to maybe 80% max but it will become more like an airoplane.1 fan in fron blowing air o nthe hard disks , one in front of videocad , on in front od power suplly , on on the cpu heatsink , an one on the back. . sorry for bad quality. its with the smartphone. PS: you wont see the fan from the front of the drive from that position


65c with 100%? It sounds like a Jet, right? Hehe. Thanks for the explanation


----------



## bloodindark

i modified the post with more explanations. 10x


----------



## bloodindark

not at all







, not even with all those fans.but if i maxed out the fans, i think over time, i will have hearing problems quickly , no kiidding !


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> Regarding the AIO water coolers, anyone knows any solution to add to my aorus 1080 ? I saw on internet people who bought an AIO kit and install the cpu cooler into the gpu chip. I've never heard something about this.


There are mounting kits out there that allow you to use an AIO with your GPU yes. The only kit that works with the Aorus is the NZXT G12 adaptor + an AIO of your choice. Typically, there is a decent reduction in core temperatures (down to about 45-50 degrees depending on the AIO size) but VRAM + VRM temps tend to be worse. On the Aorus, since our VRM is pretty efficient (IIRC 87% or something), we don't need to worry but your VRAM overclocks will likely be worse.

In my opinion, if you are willing to fork out money to do an AIO mod, unless you already have a spare AIO, its much better to buy an EK waterblock + the watercool components and do a small private custom loop for the card. You will get better VRAM temps + futureproofing.


----------



## WindRipper

Hello everyone,

I've been reading most the posts on this thread (up to page 70) so got plenty to go.
But just had a couple of questions and you guys seem like you know a fair bit more than me about graphics cards and computer stuff.

Anyway, I pulled the trigger originally on a 1080 Ti with the Inno3D NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB iChiLL X3 Ultra, but it was faulty on arrival, on games like Ark Survival and benchmarks it would get up to 74C very fast and then the software/driver would crash. It seemed like the fans were not ramping up correctly as well as the Boost 3.0 not throttling fast enough. It ran out the box at about 2039MHz (or close to that) and never once slowed down, it seemed to prefer to get hot and stop working. I sent it back and got the Gigabyte 1080 Ti Aorus Xtreme Edition.

So far it seems to be running fine but when I run Unigine Heaven Benchmark there is conflicting information. In the benchmark the GPU clock speed is showing 2037MHz, but in MSI Afterburner (v4.3.0) the Core clock shows as 1987MHz. Which is correct?

Another thing is that the GPU usage is sitting anywhere from 62-69%. I thought it should go right up to 100% on a benchmark?


----------



## b0nn1n

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> There are mounting kits out there that allow you to use an AIO with your GPU yes. The only kit that works with the Aorus is the NZXT G12 adaptor + an AIO of your choice. Typically, there is a decent reduction in core temperatures (down to about 45-50 degrees depending on the AIO size) but VRAM + VRM temps tend to be worse. On the Aorus, since our VRM is pretty efficient (IIRC 87% or something), we don't need to worry but your VRAM overclocks will likely be worse.
> 
> In my opinion, if you are willing to fork out money to do an AIO mod, unless you already have a spare AIO, its much better to buy an EK waterblock + the watercool components and do a small private custom loop for the card. You will get better VRAM temps + futureproofing.


I understand, I only have a kraken x52 for the cpu...

I can buy the nzxt kraken G12 and H55 cosair AIO for example to save money...right?

But if the vram will not properly cooled...I'm thinking in change the card for the msi 1080 sea hawk but I'm not sure if this card has coilwhine.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0nn1n*
> 
> I understand, I only have a kraken x52 for the cpu...
> 
> I can buy the nzxt kraken G12 and H55 cosair AIO for example to save money...right?
> 
> But if the vram will not properly cooled...I'm thinking in change the card for the msi 1080 sea hawk but I'm not sure if this card has coilwhine.


Changing to the seahawk can work if you can sell your Aorus for a decent price. However, the Seahawk has total crap TDP limit so you will be power limiting a lot.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Man it's amazing how much of a difference water makes. I was actually able to break down that 2100 wall and got a stable 2126/6107. Here's a run through SuperPosition 4k at 1.093v. I almost made it through at 2139, but it crashed on test 13









Before the block I wasn't even able to get a stable 2100 even at 1.093v. Now I can run a stable 2100 at 1.081v. Not to mention not breaking 40C under full load full power is pretty damn amazing.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Man it's amazing how much of a difference water makes. I was actually able to break down that 2100 wall and got a stable 2126/6107. Here's a run through SuperPosition 4k at 1.093v. I almost made it through at 2139, but it crashed on test 13
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the block I wasn't even able to get a stable 2100 even at 1.093v. Now I can run a stable 2100 at 1.081v. Not to mention not breaking 40C under full load full power is pretty damn amazing.


Man, i have been waiting to see your results from your water cooling eneavours







That is really nice! Loving those temps.....I am jealous to say the least









Is it possible to run a gpu and cpu on a single 240mm rad? I think the general rule of thumb is 120mm for each device + 1? What issues would I see if I just used a my current rad? Water gradually heat up?

Would be REALLY convenient to leave my current loop as is. All i would need to do is buy the gpu block and a couple of fittings...


----------



## Streetdragon

so all in all you could say: better get aorus card with ek block than a founders with waterblock? or is there no differenz in power/clock


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> so all in all you could say: better get aorus card with ek block than a founders with waterblock? or is there no differenz in power/clock


If you are not willing to hardmod the FE card for TDP, its better to go Asus Strix (cuz XOC BIOS is completely unlimited) or Aorus/Zotac (cuz higher factory TDP but limited voltage).


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> Man, i have been waiting to see your results from your water cooling eneavours
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That is really nice! Loving those temps.....I am jealous to say the least
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is it possible to run a gpu and cpu on a single 240mm rad? I think the general rule of thumb is 120mm for each device + 1? What issues would I see if I just used a my current rad? Water gradually heat up?
> 
> Would be REALLY convenient to leave my current loop as is. All i would need to do is buy the gpu block and a couple of fittings...


Yeah man I wasn't sure what to expect since I wasn't able to hit 2100 on air. It's amazing how much difference the water makes. Plus getting rid of the fans and LED's means more power available for the card itself. General rule of thumb is 120mm for each component and then an extra 120mm for headroom. I'm running absolute overkill in my Phanteks Enthoo Primo. I'm running a Monsta 360mm, a XT45 420mm and a UT30 240mm, and two MCP655's.

How thick is the rad and what kind is it? And is it in push/pull? If you are going to do this you want as much cooling as possible. While you would benefit from another 240mm or 120mm, I believe that it is possible to run both off the 240mm as long as it's a good radiator. You'll still see temps lower than air, but not the lowest temps possible since you are limiting yourself with the 240mm. I say do it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> so all in all you could say: better get aorus card with ek block than a founders with waterblock? or is there no differenz in power/clock


It's all a lottery man, but with the Aorus you get that sweet 375w limit and I hear that the FE cards that are being sold now aren't nearly as good as the first batches that were sent out. So Aorus+Waterblock=Heaven.


----------



## Streetdragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> It's all a lottery man, but with the Aorus you get that sweet 375w limit and I hear that the FE cards that are being sold now aren't nearly as good as the first batches that were sent out. So Aorus+Waterblock=Heaven.


but i dotn need to buy a backplate. i can just slap the waterblock on it and play without plate(card wont hang, because my motherboard is laid)


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> but i dotn need to buy a backplate. i can just slap the waterblock on it and play without plate(card wont hang, because my motherboard is laid)


The backplate is the best part. You can put extra padding and aux cooling on the EK one which has VERY intimate contact with most back components (cooling is godly)..


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The backplate is the best part. You can put extra padding and aux cooling on the EK one which has VERY intimate contact with most back components (cooling is godly)..


I believe both do, but just do be sure:

Do the waterblock and the backplate both come with all the thermal paste and/or pads needed?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> I believe both do, but just do be sure:
> 
> Do the waterblock and the backplate both come with all the thermal paste and/or pads needed?


Blocks yes, plate no. If you want to apply padding to the backplate, I recommend you get a bunch of 1mm and 1.5mm ones.


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Blocks yes, plate no. If you want to apply padding to the backplate, I recommend you get a bunch of 1mm and 1.5mm ones.


Back plate does come with necessary 1mm and 1.5mm thermal pads as well.

"EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate features passive cooling of the printed circuit board and its components therefore it is mandatory to install the enclosed thermal pad."

Although you might want to get Fujopoly high performance 17 W/Mk pads instead if you want absolute peak heat transfer. They are not cheap though.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Back plate does come with necessary 1mm and 1.5mm thermal pads as well.
> 
> "EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate features passive cooling of the printed circuit board and its components therefore it is mandatory to install the enclosed thermal pad."
> 
> Although you might want to get Fujopoly high performance 17 W/Mk pads instead if you want absolute peak heat transfer. They are not cheap though.


Theres no point ordering Fujiploy at the backplate (even though i did because I had a bunch spare) because your heat transfer bottleneck is not the padding but the fibreglass itself (plus what little heat comes through the soldered pins). Fujiploy for the VRAM is totally worth it though.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Tried out my newly found stable OC of 2126/6107 and am pretty happy with the results. Even beats the scores I got when my CPU was at 4.7Ghz (it's at 4.5Ghz currently).

Still feel like something is holding back my scores. I remember there being instructions on the ideal settings for benchmarks in the Nvidia Control Panel that somebody posted. Could anyone link me?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> but i dotn need to buy a backplate. i can just slap the waterblock on it and play without plate(card wont hang, because my motherboard is laid)


Then just buy the block then. It comes with all the pads you need and even comes with thermal paste. I instead used Fujipoly Ultra Pads and Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut to get the biggest temp drop possible.

Is there a reason you don't want the backplate? It adds a nice look to the card and protects and cools all the components on the back of the card. It's only $35.

But if you really just want the block then do that. You will still have amazing temps even without the backplate. I just like them because they act as a shield, look sexy, and give the card a tiny bit more cooling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Blocks yes, plate no. If you want to apply padding to the backplate, I recommend you get a bunch of 1mm and 1.5mm ones.


The backplate does come with the necessary padding. Only if you want to extend that padding to other areas of the card that are not in the instruction manual then yes, you will need more padding, but if you just want to follow the instructions you have everything you need.


----------



## ForNever

Awesome, would you say there's a big difference on backplate temps, or about the same you think?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Man it's amazing how much of a difference water makes. I was actually able to break down that 2100 wall and got a stable 2126/6107. Here's a run through SuperPosition 4k at 1.093v. I almost made it through at 2139, but it crashed on test 13
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Before the block I wasn't even able to get a stable 2100 even at 1.093v. Now I can run a stable 2100 at 1.081v. Not to mention not breaking 40C under full load full power is pretty damn amazing.


man, im jello, too. i bet this card i have could 24/7 at 2126. uggh. need more money and full loop.....

the nvidia CP settings are , off on virtually everything (like AA, AF, etc) + high performance on anything that has that option and max pre rendered frames at 4. you can do it globally, or, start the benchmark, back out, and look for the benchmarks 'workload" and set it up for just that bench.

i bet you hit 10,750.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> 
> man, im jello, too. i bet this card i have could 24/7 at 2126. uggh. need more money and full loop.....
> 
> the nvidia CP settings are , off on virtually everything (like AA, AF, etc) + high performance on anything that has that option and max pre rendered frames at 4. you can do it globally, or, start the benchmark, back out, and look for the benchmarks 'workload" and set it up for just that bench.
> 
> i bet you hit 10,750.


Thanks for the settings! +REP After I ran a bench with them I kept getting crashes so I lowered it to 2114 and got a great score. Highest one yet. Getting close to 10k in TimeSpy! Now let's see SuperPosition.



EDIT: Here is SuperPosition at 2114/6107. My highest score yet at 10470, but I'm still being held back by something. I've already overclocked my card back up to 4.7Ghz.


----------



## Slackaveli

TRY LOWERING YOUR SYSTEM'S RESOLUTION , LIKE IF 4K DOWN TO 1440, IF 1440, DOWN to 1080p. that'll squeeze another 50-100 points. also, if on multi-monitor, run one monitor.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Awesome, would you say there's a big difference on backplate temps, or about the same you think?


The EK backplate feels about the same as the stock one temperature-wise.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Man,

you guys have infected me ... i am seriously thinking about getting a custom loop again. I might even switch over to my 750D case just for the sake of getting more/better rads in there.

Even while it is not exactly on topic here, but would you get a monoblock to cool CPU and MB vrms (like the EK-FB Asus M8G), or just a dedicated CPU block and leave vrms to air?

EDIT: OK, to late, it is done:

I just pressed the button and ordered .. a few ... parts ....

EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel
EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Black
EK-CoolStream XE 240 (Double)
EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) (x3)
EK-Vardar F3-140ER (2000rpm) (x2)
EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. sleeved pump)
EK-RES X3 150
EK-DuraClear 11,1/15,9mm 3M RETAIL (x2)
EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Red (x14)
EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Concentrate 100 mL (x2)
EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM (10cm) (x2)
EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Man,
> 
> you guys have infected me ... i am seriously thinking about getting a custom loop again. I might even switch over to my 750D case just for the sake of getting more/better rads in there.
> 
> Even while it is not exactly on topic here, but would you get a monoblock to cool CPU and MB vrms (like the EK-FB Asus M8G), or just a dedicated CPU block and leave vrms to air?
> 
> EDIT: OK, to late, it is done:
> 
> I just pressed the button and ordered .. a few ... parts ....
> 
> 
> Spoiler: PARTS
> 
> 
> 
> EK-FB ASUS M8G Monoblock - Nickel
> EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel
> EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Black
> EK-CoolStream XE 240 (Double)
> EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple)
> EK-Vardar F4-120ER (2200rpm) (x3)
> EK-Vardar F3-140ER (2000rpm) (x2)
> EK-XTOP Revo D5 PWM - Plexi (incl. sleeved pump)
> EK-RES X3 150
> EK-DuraClear 11,1/15,9mm 3M RETAIL (x2)
> EK-ACF Fitting 12/16mm - Red (x14)
> EK-CryoFuel Blood Red Concentrate 100 mL (x2)
> EK-Cable Y-Splitter 2-Fan PWM (10cm) (x2)
> EK-ATX Bridging Plug (24 pin)


Good man. I hope you don't have a significant other and shared savings. If my first statement is not true then you won't regret it. This thing stays stupidly cool. With the Aorus, the key to opening 2100 is all in the water. Anything above that is luck. I'm in love. Oh. Not to mention SILENCE.

I'm really bummed that I can't get the card to go above 1.093v no matter what I do. I need more voltage!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Good man. I hope you don't have a significant other and shared savings. If my first statement is not true then you won't regret it. This thing stays stupidly cool. With the Aorus, the key to opening 2100 is all in the water. Anything above that is luck. I'm in love. Oh. Not to mention SILENCE.
> 
> I'm really bummed that I can't get the card to go above 1.093v no matter what I do. I need more voltage!


Nah lol, i'm single, so no danger of getting in trouble with a significant other









More voltage .... hm has anyone tried flashing the Asus Strix OCX Bios to the AORUS? Not that i'd blindly advise it, it might wreck the card, but it would be sweet if that worked.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Hey, If you don't mind me asking how much did all that run you? I might be making a birthday wish list with my wife..


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Hey, If you don't mind me asking how much did all that run you? I might be making a birthday wish list with my wife..


Well,
all in all including shipping, extra-fee for paying with paypal etc. it cost me 60€ less than what i paid for the AORUS TI Xtreme when i bought amonth ago. Or in pure numbers, its 820€ ... Yep, thats alot of money, but i just got some in from selling my "old" GFX and some other hardware, so it' doesn't actualy hit that hard.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I've been playing games with 1.093v and 2101/12Ghz and I tried it with Mass Effect and it worked for a while, but after landing on a different planet the game froze so I ctrl+alt+del and it actually worked so something is different this time (this game has hard locked the computer every single time before). I checked event viewer and the driver didn't even crash! I get an error that states the following:

Faulting application name: IGOProxy64.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x5923b4c1
Faulting module name: d3d9.dll, version: 10.0.15063.0, time stamp: 0x631de416
Exception code: 0xc0000005
Fault offset: 0x000000000000fd0c
Faulting process id: 0x2b84
Faulting application start time: 0x01d2da62fecd28ad
Faulting application path: C:\Program Files (x86)\Origin\IGOProxy64.exe
Faulting module path: C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\d3d9.dll
Report Id: 798f40d0-91a7-4dcf-bac9-f48b5ea026f0
Faulting package full name:
Faulting package-relative application ID:

Strange!

EDIT: So, just to check I ran a benchmark and it looks like the driver did crash. This game seems to have some real issues. All other games work fine at 2101/12Ghz.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So I've been playing games with 1.093v and 2101/12Ghz and I tried it with Mass Effect and it worked for a while, but after landing on a different planet the game froze so I ctrl+alt+del and it actually worked so something is different this time (this game has hard locked the computer every single time before). I checked event viewer and the driver didn't even crash! I get an error that states the following:
> 
> Faulting application name: IGOProxy64.exe, version: 0.0.0.0, time stamp: 0x5923b4c1
> Faulting module name: d3d9.dll, version: 10.0.15063.0, time stamp: 0x631de416
> Exception code: 0xc0000005
> Fault offset: 0x000000000000fd0c
> Faulting process id: 0x2b84
> Faulting application start time: 0x01d2da62fecd28ad
> Faulting application path: C:\Program Files (x86)\Origin\IGOProxy64.exe
> Faulting module path: C:\WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\d3d9.dll
> Report Id: 798f40d0-91a7-4dcf-bac9-f48b5ea026f0
> Faulting package full name:
> Faulting package-relative application ID:
> 
> Strange!


This could be a problem with a missing or defect .dll from a .NET or MS Visual C++ runtime installation. You could either check and reinstall all of them manualy again, OR go to the following link, click on the orange "Download" button an the right and install a tool that will check you PC for it and offers a convenient way to install/repair all recent runtimes. I would ignore Java, Flash silverlight and such crap, but se that .NET and c++ runtime are all repaired and up to date.

https://www.computerbase.de/downloads/systemtools/all-in-one-runtimes/

If it's not that, i'd just blame it on ME:A. This game was so hastly patched together with a hot needle, best EA tradtion of screwing things up. It wouldn't surprise me if they are using some self-hacked dll's included in the gamedirectory that replaces the original Windows ones ... (bad) developers do that if they need a certain function of an dll, but don't want to or don't have the time to test their game with the complete, orignal dll for errors etc.


----------



## Carbocation

How safe is it to have 1.081 or 1.093 volts on this thing? At 1.050 I get 2000-2025mhz, while on 1.093 I get 2050-2063. Also, guess my memory oc sucks, can't get more than 350 without getting artifacts, so jealous of those with 500+ memory oc.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carbocation*
> 
> How safe is it to have 1.081 or 1.093 volts on this thing? At 1.050 I get 2000-2025mhz, while on 1.093 I get 2050-2063. Also, guess my memory oc sucks, can't get more than 350 without getting artifacts, so jealous of those with 500+ memory oc.


Get the memory colder and you will see magic.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Nah lol, i'm single, so no danger of getting in trouble with a significant other
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More voltage .... hm has anyone tried flashing the Asus Strix OCX Bios to the AORUS? Not that i'd blindly advise it, it might wreck the card, but it would be sweet if that worked.


I did that when I was on air. There were performance regressions across the board so I flash back to F4.


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Good man. I hope you don't have a significant other and shared savings. If my first statement is not true then you won't regret it. This thing stays stupidly cool. With the Aorus, the key to opening 2100 is all in the water. Anything above that is luck. I'm in love. Oh. Not to mention SILENCE.
> 
> I'm really bummed that I can't get the card to go above 1.093v no matter what I do. I need more voltage!


Did you stay on F3 or updated to F4?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Holy batman these blocks are no joke! I'm seeing a 23C drop in temps! 39C MAX. Also, I can now run 2100 at 1.081v which is something I could not do before. Here is a bench with Superposition 4k Optimized, 2101 core and 6107 memory. Max temps was 39C. Water temp is 23.5C. Also, no more hitting the Power Perfcap. Seems like getting rid of those fans and LED's gave me some more headroom.
> 
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> @Dasboogieman you were totally right about the backplate. What a PITA to get on. I ended up having to use no plastic washers to feed the screws through. They really need to include longer screws for the backplate.


Yo, I was a mullet again. DONT THROW OUT THE BACKPLATE BOXES. There are perfect length screws tucked away at the bottom of the box. Holy cow the EK rep just PMed me today when I gave them feedback about the screws. I _almost_ binned them by accident.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Well,
> all in all including shipping, extra-fee for paying with paypal etc. it cost me 60€ less than what i paid for the AORUS TI Xtreme when i bought amonth ago. Or in pure numbers, its 820€ ... Yep, thats alot of money, but i just got some in from selling my "old" GFX and some other hardware, so it' doesn't actualy hit that hard.


That's actually not that bad considering it is a long term investment and it's only slightly more than what this single graphics card costs. Now to put together a wish list


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Yo, I was a mullet again. DONT THROW OUT THE BACKPLATE BOXES. There are perfect length screws tucked away at the bottom of the box. Holy cow the EK rep just PMed me today when I gave them feedback about the screws. I _almost_ binned them by accident.


Sorry, I don't understand your posting. Screws are included in the box from EK which have to be used for the backplate - instead of the original one?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Sorry, I don't understand your posting. Screws are included in the box from EK which have to be used for the backplate - instead of the original one?


The backplate kit has special screws in the box. The waterblock box has loads of spare screws that can also work but are not as perfect fitting as the special ones that cone with the backplate box.


----------



## UdoG

OK - so I will use the screws of the backplate kit.

Thanks!


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The backplate kit has special screws in the box. The waterblock box has loads of spare screws that can also work but are not as perfect fitting as the special ones that cone with the backplate box.


Do you think it's possible to keep the Aorus back plate with the EK block using any of those supplied screws or others ?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Do you think it's possible to keep the Aorus back plate with the EK block using any of those supplied screws or others ?


Borderline impossible to keep the Aorus backplate. Not that you would want to, the EK one is thicker (thus less flex) and more intimate contact with the PCB backside, which means superior cooling.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> [...]
> 
> Although you might want to get Fujopoly high performance 17 W/Mk pads instead if you want absolute peak heat transfer. They are not cheap though.


Wow, 17w/mK is crazy good, even more than some thermal pastes have. Unfortunatly, i haven't found any etailer over here. Does anyone know a shop that offers them in germany or europe at last? The best pads i found here where the thermal grizzly ones. They have a good reputation, but they "only" transport 8w/mK ....


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Yeah its a CM HAF 932 vintage edition. I got this 5 years ago in the hopes of watercooling Hawaii but I only got round to it now. If anything, this didn't fit as many rads as I would like and theres no pump/tube rez mount (makes sense because 5.25inch bay rezzes were all the rage back then). I'm considering upgrading to the Enthoo Prime pro so I can get a decent amount of 360 + 360 +240 so I can pull the CPU below 65 degrees.


He, i must have overread your answer a few pages back, just found it now.

Aw man, the HAF 932. Had that case, too. it was my first HAF







, and to be honest, both are _almost_ the same on the inside, close to the point of beeing identical. It was a short love though, because a friend of mine manged to DROP it off a quite high table with his fat ass at a LAN party. Total write-off. Front bezel cracked/splintered, frame completly warped, side window cracked, mainboard literaly broke in half, some screws where torn out of the mainboard carrier, 2 HDDs died as well. YES this was a tough excercise test in friendship, but we talk again today







Mainly because he bought me the HAF-X i am still using now ...


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Wow, 17w/mK is crazy good, even more than some thermal pastes have. Unfortunatly, i haven't found any etailer over here. Does anyone know a shop that offers them in germany or europe at last? The best pads i found here where the thermal grizzly ones. They have a good reputation, but they "only" transport 8w/mK ....


Some Thermal Pads with 17w/mK are here - but really expensive:

http://www.aquatuning.de/waermeleitmittel/waermeleitpad/?p=1

Distributor for Germany is Nucletron Technologies GmbH:

phone +49 89 14900274
fax +49 89 14900211
www.fujipoly.de

c/o Nucletron Technologies GmbH
Gärtnerstr. 60
D-80992 München

Unfortunately you can't order Pads directly :-(

I got the following feedback regarding fujipoly products (in German):

Guten Tag Herr xxx,

vielen Dank für Ihre Anfrage.
Eine Belieferung von Privatkunden ist leider nicht möglich.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards

and

Hallo Herr xxx,

anbei ein Link zu Aquatuning. Dort können Sie einige unserer Produkte kaufen:

http://www.aquatuning.de/waermeleitmittel/waermeleitpad/

Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Some Thermal Pads with 17w/mK are here - but really expensive:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/waermeleitmittel/waermeleitpad/?p=1
> 
> Distributor for Germany is Nucletron Technologies GmbH:
> 
> phone +49 89 14900274
> fax +49 89 14900211
> www.fujipoly.de
> 
> c/o Nucletron Technologies GmbH
> Gärtnerstr. 60
> D-80992 München
> 
> Unfortunately you can't order Pads directly :-(
> 
> I got the following feedback regarding fujipoly products (in German):
> 
> Guten Tag Herr xxx,
> 
> vielen Dank für Ihre Anfrage.
> Eine Belieferung von Privatkunden ist leider nicht möglich.
> 
> Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards
> 
> and
> 
> Hallo Herr xxx,
> 
> anbei ein Link zu Aquatuning. Dort können Sie einige unserer Produkte kaufen:
> 
> http://www.aquatuning.de/waermeleitmittel/waermeleitpad/
> 
> Mit freundlichen Grüßen / Best regards


Hey thanks for the links ... but WOW, they surely want to make a very quick fortune of them ... 100mmx100mm*1mm for 120€ is just plain rippoff.
That is about the same price you pay for 935 silver....

But these in fact ARE fujipoly pads, "Sarcon XR-m" is the brandname for the fujipoly pads ....


----------



## TucoPacifico

Stock cooling, air cooled 6700K @4.2GHz, Aorus GTX 1080 Ti non-Xtreme, F4 BIOS, controlled by MSI AB 4.4.0 Beta. Best Extreme 1080p result so far over here:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So I'm going to do a complete reinstall of windows since it's been a while and it would be nice to see if it improves my scores at all. Just backing some stuff up to Google Drive and then I'm going to start the process. I obtained a copy of windows from last month so hopefully there won't be too much updating.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hey thanks for the links ... but WOW, they surely want to make a very quick fortune of them ... 100mmx100mm*1mm for 120€ is just plain rippoff.
> That is about the same price you pay for 935 silver....
> 
> But these in fact ARE fujipoly pads, "Sarcon XR-m" is the brandname for the fujipoly pads ....


Have a look on Amazon for Alphacool pad. They also market the same pads.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Have a look on Amazon for Alphacool pad. They also market the same pads.


Yeah,

the alphacool pads (Eisschicht) are the same that aquatuning.de sells (what UdoG posted). They are like 110 on Amazon instead of 120 on aquatuning ....


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Stock cooling, air cooled 6700K @4.2GHz, Aorus GTX 1080 Ti non-Xtreme, F4 BIOS, controlled by MSI AB 4.4.0 Beta. Best Extreme 1080p result so far over here:


That is F***ING amazing for a non-Xtreme.









Would you mind posting you AB settings?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> That is F***ING amazing for a non-Xtreme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you mind posting you AB settings?


They're the same card why are you surprised lol...

Regular Aorus cards are clocking higher than xtremes if you haven't noticed.


----------



## foxmino

I was wondering if any of you water cooling guys are willing to sell your air cooler to me
My Aorus Extreme air cooler fans starts clicking real bad around around 90% to 100%
and i don't want to RMA the card because it will almost hit 2100 mhz on air


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> They're the same card why are you surprised lol...
> 
> Regular Aorus cards are clocking higher than xtremes if you haven't noticed.


Meh, you are right ... thanks reminding me i paid over 80€ more for nothing


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Meh, you are right ... thanks reminding me i paid over 80€ more for nothing


to be fair, most of us got the regular b/c xtreme wasnt in stock, but, yeah. They ended up clocking so great that $719 for these was a steal. FE price, basically. With dat power limit tho. And those temps. And that cooler. Hell, the RGBs alone are a $20 value.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foxmino*
> 
> I was wondering if any of you water cooling guys are willing to sell your air cooler to me
> My Aorus Extreme air cooler fans starts clicking real bad around around 90% to 100%
> and i don't want to RMA the card because it will almost hit 2100 mhz on air


Thats easy to fix
Just get a piece of paper, fold it a couple of times and wedge it in the cooler like I've done on mine. Jiggle it around and play with the thicknesses.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> How thick is the rad and what kind is it? And is it in push/pull? If you are going to do this you want as much cooling as possible. While you would benefit from another 240mm or 120mm, I believe that it is possible to run both off the 240mm as long as it's a good radiator. You'll still see temps lower than air, but not the lowest temps possible since you are limiting yourself with the 240mm. I say do it!
> It's all a lottery man, but with the Aorus you get that sweet 375w limit and I hear that the FE cards that are being sold now aren't nearly as good as the first batches that were sent out. So Aorus+Waterblock=Heaven.


I have a 40mm thick 240mm rad (XSPC AX240). With two fans in push and one fan in pull. The rad and fans are sealed well so all air is being pushed through. Hrm, you have given me much to think about. I am concerned about extended gaming periods such as a LAN where the temps may gradually heat up.....

SIGH! DECISIONS


----------



## DisposableHero7

Holy Moly ....

did you guys see the MSI TI lightning?

Full 3-slot cooler, a good amount longer than the AORUS, 3 8-Pin PCIe connectors allowing for a total of 450 watts, 14+3 power phases, dual bios, with the 2nd one without ANY powerlimit, backplate with a heatpipe. But, i'll giggle ifthis beast doesnt perform any better than all the other 1080TI's out there...


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Holy Moly ....
> 
> did you guys see the MSI TI lightning?
> 
> Full 3-slot cooler, a good amount longer than the AORUS, 3 8-Pin PCIe connectors allowing for a total of 450 watts, 14+3 power phases, dual bios, with the 2nd one without ANY powerlimit, backplate with a heatpipe. But, i'll giggle ifthis beast doesnt perform any better than all the other 1080TI's out there...


Nekminnit, tops out at 2050mhz like everyone else.

Unpopular opinion, I don't see the point with these super 1080ti cards that are binned to do like 2050mhz guaranteed at this stage in the cycle (outside of LN2 guys). The added cost is such poor value, you might as well have gone with the Titan Xp.
I actually gave up on extreme backplate cooling, I realized the heat transfer bottleneck was the fibreglass (which is so abysmal its almost a thermal insulator). You just need enough cooling so the SMDs at the back don't burn up under the backplate but it does very little to cool front side parts.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Nekminnit, tops out at 2050mhz like everyone else.
> 
> Unpopular opinion, I don't see the point with these super 1080ti cards that are binned to do like 2050mhz guaranteed at this stage in the cycle (outside of LN2 guys). The added cost is such poor value, you might as well have gone with the Titan Xp.
> I actually gave up on extreme backplate cooling, I realized the heat transfer bottleneck was the fibreglass (which is so abysmal its almost a thermal insulator). You just need enough cooling so the SMDs at the back don't burn up under the backplate but it does very little to cool front side parts.


Dude,

shame on me, but i actually had to google what you meant with "Nekminnit" ...


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Nekminnit, tops out at 2050mhz like everyone else.
> 
> Unpopular opinion, I don't see the point with these super 1080ti cards that are binned to do like 2050mhz guaranteed at this stage in the cycle (outside of LN2 guys). The added cost is such poor value, you might as well have gone with the Titan Xp.
> I actually gave up on extreme backplate cooling, I realized the heat transfer bottleneck was the fibreglass (which is so abysmal its almost a thermal insulator). You just need enough cooling so the SMDs at the back don't burn up under the backplate but it does very little to cool front side parts.


I agree. The gains are going to be minimal. That is one of the reasons I am uming and arring about water cooling. Gains will be negligible, aside from noise of course. I wonder what this card is going to cost?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> That is F***ING amazing for a non-Xtreme.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would you mind posting you AB settings?


Sure I will post my AB settings later today after work. I think I have a very efficient case cooling. 2x14cm scythe on the front wall, 2x12cm on the top and one rear. As the 1080 ti is dissipating tons of heat into the computer case, I think this is crucial. The benchmark was conducted with all fans at 100%. When I game I have a custom fan curve for all of them and the card, which is not that noisy, it is quiet for my standards. The core kept 2076 MHz throughout the benchmark.

The case cooling is not there to look good, but to get the job done. I don't have time or money to invest in eye candy or looks. Enough I get broke buying the video card. This solution is however effective and the video card as well as the rest of the equipment can deliver.


----------



## iSaff

I'm new to computer builds, I purchased an Aorus 1080 TI Xtreme from Amazon, is the consensus here that the non-Extreme is the better buy? Thanks.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSaff*
> 
> I'm new to computer builds, I purchased an Aorus 1080 TI Xtreme from Amazon, is the consensus here that the non-Extreme is the better buy? Thanks.


I don't know about now but for last few months yeah. The normals seem to overclock a lot better and generally more stable while the Extreme had a roughly 60% chance to not go very far beyond stock clocks and a 40% chance to straight up crash at stock clocks.


----------



## Streetdragon

aorus 1080 ti or or any other non ti... questios over questions.. 1080 would be enough for me, but i want the first time in my life the best chip on the market..... but i want AMD ahhhhhh that is not easy-.-


----------



## ForNever

Waterblock & backplate arrive today, so busy Friday evening for me. I'm excited to get case temps down. I've been thinking about using this on the backplate if the water block & backplate don't do much. It sure as hell won't look good, but it should help to keep case temps down.


----------



## KryziK

I have an AORUS Xtreme GTX 1080 Ti, and I noticed that in Gaming mode, the AORUS Graphics Engine shows the GPU Boost to be 1720, but Furmark shows it in the 1850-1900 range. Similarly, when in OC mode, AGE shows 1748 but Furmark shows 1999. Does anyone know why this is happening, or which numbers are correct? I'm asking because in OC mode I crash within a minute during games, and in Gaming mode I crash once or twice a day. The tech support guy said it's strange that the speed is going over 1748, but it seems to me that tons of people online report hitting 2k as no big deal (they seem happy it is).

Can anyone shed light on this? Maybe it's a common thing with graphics cards that I'm just not aware of. Anyone else crashing on any mode with this card?

I have an i7-7700k @ 4.2GHz (stock), and DDR4 3600 using XMP. Tech support suggested that I disable XMP to see if that helps, but honestly I don't see why it would make a difference since my CPU/memory isn't causing the issue as far as I know.

Thanks!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

So my clean install of windows was a success I just got my highest score yet in Superposition 4k. This was at 2101-6003 and 1.081v.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Waterblock & backplate arrive today, so busy Friday evening for me. I'm excited to get case temps down. I've been thinking about using this on the backplate if the water block & backplate don't do much. It sure as hell won't look good, but it should help to keep case temps down.


Trust me. You are going to be amazed when you boot up and see the load temps. You won't need that HDD waterblock. I can almost guarantee that sticking that to the backplate will do next to nothing.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> I have an AORUS Xtreme GTX 1080 Ti, and I noticed that in Gaming mode, the AORUS Graphics Engine shows the GPU Boost to be 1720, but Furmark shows it in the 1850-1900 range. Similarly, when in OC mode, AGE shows 1748 but Furmark shows 1999. Does anyone know why this is happening, or which numbers are correct? I'm asking because in OC mode I crash within a minute during games, and in Gaming mode I crash once or twice a day. The tech support guy said it's strange that the speed is going over 1748, but it seems to me that tons of people online report hitting 2k as no big deal (they seem happy it is).
> 
> Can anyone shed light on this? Maybe it's a common thing with graphics cards that I'm just not aware of. Anyone else crashing on any mode with this card?
> 
> I have an i7-7700k @ 4.2GHz (stock), and DDR4 3600 using XMP. Tech support suggested that I disable XMP to see if that helps, but honestly I don't see why it would make a difference since my CPU/memory isn't causing the issue as far as I know.
> 
> Thanks!


Hi Kryzik,
yes it is totaly normal that NVIDIA 1080 (ti) cards will go above what is shown as the 'estimated' boost clock. The only thing that is fixed is the base clock (1607 MHz for an AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme), the boost clock is then estimated to be at roughly 1721 MHz. BUT since all NVIDIA Pascals (10xx) use GPU BOOST 3.0, the real boost will very often go much higher than that. It will go as high as the combination of powerlimit (watts your card allows), voltage limit (set by the bios to protect the GPU) and temperatur of the GPU allow for. Most custom cooled 1080s or 1080TIs end up delivering high 18xx to low 20xx MHz, depending on the game, boardlayout (phases) etc..

The fact that the "tech support guy" was wondering about that shows a very much common problem these days: companies hiring call-centers to do their service, and the callcenter agents having no ******* clue about the products they are supposed to support .... and than are trying to fish in muddy waters to solve a problem they don't even understand.

Now to your problem: If your card crashes randomly on "Game" mode and always on "OC" mode, it is faulty. Sadly that seems to happen alot with the AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme. "Game" and "OC" Mode are advertised clockspeeds the card has to deliver stable. If it doesn't RMA the card and get a new one. I had to do the same. The 2nd card i got now performs as it should.


----------



## KryziK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hi Kryzik,
> yes it is totaly normal that NVIDIA 1080 (ti) cards will go above what is shown as the 'estimated' boost clock. The only thing that is fixed is the base clock (1607 MHz for an AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme), the boost clock is then estimated to be at roughly 1721 MHz. BUT since all NVIDIA Pascals (10xx) use GPU BOOST 3.0, the real boost will very often go much higher than that. It will go as high as the combination of powerlimit (watts your card allows), voltage limit (set by the bios to protect the GPU) and temperatur of the GPU allow for. Most custom cooled 1080s or 1080TIs end up delivering high 18xx to low 20xx MHz, depending on the game, boardlayout (phases) etc..
> 
> The fact that the "tech support guy" was wondering about that shows a very much common problem these days: companies hiring call-centers to do their service, and the callcenter agents having no ******* clue about the products they are supposed to support.....
> 
> Now to your problem: If your card crashes randomly on "Game" mode and always on "OC" mode, it is faulty. Sadly that seems to happen alot with the AORUS 1080 TI Xtreme. "Game" and "OC" Mode are advertised clockspeeds the card has to deliver stable. If it doesn't RMA the card and get a new one. I had to do the same. The 2nd card i got now performs as it should.


Thank you so much for your quick response. Your first point does make sense, although my temps were nowhere near 80 on OC mode when the crash happened, so I figured that wasn't related to the issue. I do understand that the power limit etc makes a difference, but I don't know what the Gaming and OC modes define for each of their settings.

Also, yes, I took what he told me with a grain of salt because I understand that he is indeed just an offshore tech support representative who has limited knowledge. Still, with as many people having issues as I've seen, I figured he would have encountered someone saying the same thing at least once.

As I figured, I will probably have to RMA the card. I've seen multiple suggestions (such as on Newegg's reviews) to do just that. Although, there was no update on whether their replacement performed any better. I guess I'll just have to try and see.

As for disabling XMP and letting my 3600 MHz RAM run at 2133 to see if that helps, is there any logic in that? Even if there is, I don't *want* to run it lower than 3600. I was also running my setup on a few fans while I prepare my custom liquid loop, so all experiences with this card have been on fan. Although, none of my temps were getting too high for comfort, so I don't think I should need to test it on liquid before seeing if it's faulty. If anything, that's a pain because I'll have to take the water block back off. RMA it is...


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> [...]
> 
> As for disabling XMP and letting my 3600 MHz RAM run at 2133 to see if that helps, is there any logic in that? Even if there is, I don't *want* to run it lower than 3600. I was also running my setup on a few fans while I prepare my custom liquid loop, so all experiences with this card have been on fan. Although, none of my temps were getting too high for comfort, so I don't think I should need to test it on liquid before seeing if it's faulty. If anything, that's a pain because I'll have to take the water block back off. RMA it is...


There is a very faint, far out possibility that indeed going down from 3600MHz Ram to 2133 MHz Ram *could* help with the problem: IF your PSU is kinda week and already on the brink of collapse, overclocking your RAM might be stressing it. (For your RAM 3600 MHz might be normal, BUT for the KabyLake chipset and memory controler, anything above 2133 counts as an overclock). In that case, it could be that the grafics card is trying to pull so much more watts (within her own limits), that the PSU simply cant deliver anymore and the grafics driver shuts down due to a lack of power. This however is would reflect in general system instability already.

What is your exact PSU?


----------



## KryziK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> There is a very faint, far out possibility that indeed going down from 3600MHz Ram to 2133 MHz Ram *could* help with the problem: IF your PSU is kinda week and already on the brink of collapse, overclocking your RAM might be stressing it. (For your RAM 3600 MHz might be normal, BUT for the KabyLake chipset and memory controler, anything above 2133 counts as an overclock). In that case, it could be that the grafics card is trying to pull so much more watts (within her own limits), that the PSU simply cant deliver anymore and the grafics driver shuts down due to a lack of power. This however is would reflect in general system instability already.
> 
> What is your exact PSU?


A brand new Thermaltake Toughpower DPS G RGB 850W.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> A brand new Thermaltake Toughpower DPS G RGB 850W.


OK,

while this realy doesn't seem to be the best 850 watts PSU out there, it should still be more than enough to power a single CPU, single GPU system, even overclocked. If you are interrested how your PSU fares compared to others, take a read here: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/thermaltake-toughpower-dps-g-rgb-850w-psu,4778-11.html

If you have the possibility to do so, you could try another PSU in your PC ... but my gut tells me it is simply your card that is faulty here....


----------



## ForNever

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So my clean install of windows was a success I just got my highest score yet in Superposition 4k. This was at 2101-6003 and 1.081v.
> 
> 
> Trust me. You are going to be amazed when you boot up and see the load temps. You won't need that HDD waterblock. I can almost guarantee that sticking that to the backplate will do next to nothing.


Wow, nice score! Perhaps I'll clean install as well, yikes.

I really hope you're right, because I absolutely dread jacking with the loop any more than I have to. At load there was SO much heat off the back plate, I just figured then I could at least effectively keep it off other components and channel it out of the case better than 3k RPM case fans currently used.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Wow, nice score! Perhaps I'll clean install as well, yikes.
> 
> I really hope you're right, because I absolutely dread jacking with the loop any more than I have to. At load there was SO much heat off the back plate, I just figured then I could at least effectively keep it off other components and channel it out of the case better than 3k RPM case fans currently used.


Also think about the added weight you would add to the card which will stress the PCI connection on your card and motherboard. You would need some type of support to prevent sag. My EK backplate is decently cool to the touch under load so I wouldn't worry about it. If you want it as cool as possible use kryonaut paste or liquid metal (carefully applying it and recommended to apply liquid electrical tape around the GPU) and fujipoly extreme pads, which are 11mK/w, like i did. The reason i say to go with the extreme instead of the ultra extreme 17mK/w ones is that it's going to most likely make a fraction of a Celcius in temps and it will save you a lot of money.

Also, tighten the blocks hex screws slightly. Just make sure they are all tight. Just gently hand tighten until the screw stops. It's always good to double check your hardware when you get it just in case the assembler missed fully screwing in one of the screws. It just takes a couples seconds and is worth it. Just don't crank them down.

Source : I'm an assembler. We mess up.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ForNever*
> 
> Wow, nice score! Perhaps I'll clean install as well, yikes.
> 
> I really hope you're right, because I absolutely dread jacking with the loop any more than I have to. At load there was SO much heat off the back plate, I just figured then I could at least effectively keep it off other components and channel it out of the case better than 3k RPM case fans currently used.


Well done! I am still on my old W7 64. It had 3 motherboards, 2 CPUs and 3 different GPUs, among those 2 AMDs. Wonder what will happen to my results on a fresh W10..


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSaff*
> 
> I'm new to computer builds, I purchased an Aorus 1080 TI Xtreme from Amazon, is the consensus here that the non-Extreme is the better buy? Thanks.


Yes, they seem to clock higher and have less issues, but you could get a perfect one. Keep your order, try out the card (don't install the Aorus software. Install MSI Afterburner.), and of ours a bad card then just return it and get a regular Aorus.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Did you stay on F3 or updated to F4?


I stayed on F3. I haven't even tired F4 though. Maybe i should.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Yo, I was a mullet again. DONT THROW OUT THE BACKPLATE BOXES. There are perfect length screws tucked away at the bottom of the box. Holy cow the EK rep just PMed me today when I gave them feedback about the screws. I _almost_ binned them by accident.


And i was also being an unspent thinking they didn't fit.... As i tried to screw them in with clear plastic washers attached to the screws... It was late lol.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Holy Moly ....
> 
> did you guys see the MSI TI lightning?
> 
> Full 3-slot cooler, a good amount longer than the AORUS, 3 8-Pin PCIe connectors allowing for a total of 450 watts, 14+3 power phases, dual bios, with the 2nd one without ANY powerlimit, backplate with a heatpipe. But, i'll giggle ifthis beast doesnt perform any better than all the other 1080TI's out there...


The only way that i would be impressed by this is if it can hit 2200Mhz. Even that is less than 100Mhz less than what I run now. I feel like with this generation of cards all of these fancy bells and whistles won't do much when there seems to be a hard coded limit in the hardware itself.


----------



## iSaff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Yes, they seem to clock higher and have less issues, but you could get a perfect one. Keep your order, try out the card (don't install the Aorus software. Install MSI Afterburner.), and of ours a bad card then just return it and get a regular Aorus.


Thank you for the advice. I'll have to hit you all up once I have the system running to check its performance and if it has issues. Happy weekend.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iSaff*
> 
> Thank you for the advice. I'll have to hit you all up once I have the system running to check its performance and if it has issues. Happy weekend.


Definitely! Just remember to use Afterburner beta 6 or above so the voltage on the card will be unlocked. Crank the power up all the way, crank the voltage up all the way, set the memory to +500 and see if you can run a benchmark like SuperPosition on the 4k Optimized preset or 1080p Extreme preset. Download GPU-Z and run the sensors while you are running the benchmark. See if there are any perf caps that come up. The grey bar is normal while on the desktop, it just means that it's in an idle state. If you see a green bar it means you are hitting the 125% or 150% power you set in MSI AB (depending on what BIOS you get, you'll probably have a 150% power limit. You'll mostly hit the power limit in benchmarks and games like The Witcher 3 and Mass Effect Andromeda. Don't rely on ME:A as a stability test because it has frequent crashes because of memory issues with the game conflicting with the 1080 Ti. If it's a blue bar it means you need more voltage (but if it's stable you can just ignore it). Also learn how to make a curve. It's extremely easy once you get used to it. Ctrl+F to bring up the curve when you have afterburner opened and selected. The card will run at the highest point in the graph at the first voltage bin and then the GPU mind takes over and things change depending on temp.

Anyways, that's some stuff I wish people told me when I got the card. These are different than anything I've used before. Also, if you can, you should put it underwater. They love cool temps.


----------



## iSaff

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*


That's amazing, I can't express how grateful I am that you shared that with me. You're a real gentleman. Have a great weekend, Big Love!


----------



## yoitsmegabe

While I'm satisfied in my card's performance, I feel like the extreme cards are really nerfed compared to the non extreme. I'd exchange mine and use the 30 bucks toward case lighting if I wasn't worried that I would get a dud. I already went through three cards from other manufacturers. ah screw it just play games and enjoy it lol


----------



## kevins978

At first it worked fine, but when I booted WOW, only the logo in top of the cards works, and the "AORUS" led shuts off, also noticed the X on the fan shroud is half on. I re-installed the Aorus Utility and it worked for a short period of time, then it just shuts off again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevins978*
> 
> At first it worked fine, but when I booted WOW, only the logo in top of the cards works, and the "AORUS" led shuts off, also noticed the X on the fan shroud is half on. I re-installed the Aorus Utility and it worked for a short period of time, then it just shuts off again. Any help would be greatly appreciated.


What's ur power supply? Age and model.

Also get rid of the gigabyte utility and use msi afterburner.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> So my clean install of windows was a success I just got my highest score yet in Superposition 4k. This was at 2101-6003 and 1.081v.


what was your score before windows clean install? did it make much difference?

this is mine. 2101 core 6142mem . looking at your score and clocks i think i should be getting more. not sure if cpu matters in this test. this was with 6700k at 4.9ghz. any tips to increase the score without increasing clocks any more?


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avioni*
> 
> what was your score before windows clean install? did it make much difference?
> 
> this is mine. 2101 core 6142mem . looking at your score and clocks i think i should be getting more. not sure if cpu matters in this test. this was with 6700k at 4.9ghz. any tips to increase the score without increasing clocks any more?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Before a clean install I was around 10255 2126/6107.

Something you should know is that higher memory doesn't mean better score. There is a sweet spot for every card. Sure I can run +700 on the memory, but I score higher with +500. Mess around with different memory speeds and see which clocks the highest. Also go into the Nvidia Control Panel and copy these settings for Superposition. Doing that will definitely raise your scores. Also copy those settings to any other benchmarks you run.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps/0_30

We have near identical hardware. I'm also running a 6700k @ 4.7Ghz and I'm running the GPU at 2101/6003 @ 1.081v for everyday gaming. Also using 3400Mhz G.Skill TridentZ DDR4. Here is a bench I did this morning with the 1080p Extreme preset with 2126/6003/ My highest score yet for 1080p Extreme.


----------



## kevins978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> What's ur power supply? Age and model.
> 
> Also get rid of the gigabyte utility and use msi afterburner.


EVGA G2 750, and I have AB, I only use AOE for LED related to control the card.

Thank you for responding, haven't got any response lately


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevins978*
> 
> EVGA G2 750, and I have AB, I only use AOE for LED related to control the card.
> 
> Thank you for responding, haven't got any response lately


Those two can conflict. Set your LED settings and uninstall the program.


----------



## philologos

Hey everyone,

I was just about to post about how my new MSI Gaming X was making horrendous noise and I was afraid I had to return it. Turns out a PSU cable was just caught in the path of a fan. Has this happened to anyone else? I feel like such a noob.

Whoops meant to post in the general 1080ti thread and not the Aorus one.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *philologos*
> 
> Hey everyone,
> 
> I was just about to post about how my new MSI Gaming X was making horrendous noise and I was afraid I had to return it. Turns out a PSU cable was just caught in the path of a fan. Has this happened to anyone else? I feel like such a noob.
> 
> Whoops meant to post in the general 1080ti thread and not the Aorus one.


yup, it happens to the best of us. Don't even get me started on the people that are RMAing their card for coil whine, not realising all cards have coil whine.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Before a clean install I was around 10255 2126/6107.
> 
> Something you should know is that higher memory doesn't mean better score. There is a sweet spot for every card. Sure I can run +700 on the memory, but I score higher with +500. Mess around with different memory speeds and see which clocks the highest. Also go into the Nvidia Control Panel and copy these settings for Superposition. Doing that will definitely raise your scores. Also copy those settings to any other benchmarks you run.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps/0_30
> 
> We have near identical hardware. I'm also running a 6700k @ 4.7Ghz and I'm running the GPU at 2101/6003 @ 1.081v for everyday gaming. Also using 3400Mhz G.Skill TridentZ DDR4. Here is a bench I did this morning with the 1080p Extreme preset with 2126/6003/ My highest score yet for 1080p Extreme.


thank you for the information. about the memory clocks i didnt just put them at those speed and test i actually was increasing it little by little each time getting a bit better score.. if i go higher i start getting lower score. Im impressed how much the clean install improved for you. tempts me to grab a spare drive and do a clean install just to try that option out. have you noticed if system ram speed does any difference? i have the tridentz 3200 cas 14. wonder if making them 3400 would do any difference.


----------



## avioni

RavageTheEarth thanks, i did the stuff on that link you gave me and did it on a fresh windows install and now got this score.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avioni*
> 
> RavageTheEarth thanks, i did the stuff on that link you gave me and did it on a fresh windows install and now got this score.


Fantastic score! I was also able to get into the 600's yesterday.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Oh yes ... after almost 2 days of nonstop assambly and tinkering, i am very, very tired, but very happy! 2100MHz club without even touching the voltage curve, FireStrike Ultra and Heaven don't crash anymore, on even higher settings than before and the GPU now barely touches 40°C under extreme loads (FurMark & FireSTrike Ultra Stresstest).










I'll fall into my bed now, dedicated build-thread with pictures and walls of text will come tomorrow ... oh and benches









Cheers, out


----------



## herpderpsky

da hell I did this with 120 W second place? help plz nvidea foresed ubdate on me after bench mark *** ;(


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Spent a little time testing out lower voltages with 2101/6003. I'm down to 1.062v and haven't tried any lower yet. Completely stable with no perfcaps!


EDIT: 1.05v is stable.

EDIT2: 1.043v is also stable....

EDIT3: Tried 1.031v, but it jumped up to 1.043v and then crashed. So it looks like 1.043v @ 2101/6003 is the lowest I can go.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Spent a little time testing out lower voltages with 2101/6003. I'm down to 1.062v and haven't tried any lower yet. Completely stable with no perfcaps!
> 
> 
> EDIT: 1.05v is stable.
> 
> EDIT2: 1.043v is also stable....
> 
> EDIT3: Tried 1.031v, but it jumped up to 1.043v and then crashed. So it looks like 1.043v @ 2101/6003 is the lowest I can go.


Great stuff









Any chance you could share your curve / settings please for the 1.043v run ?


----------



## Migot

Hello,

s it possible that afterburner causes hardware error livekernelevent 117?


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Spent a little time testing out lower voltages with 2101/6003. I'm down to 1.062v and haven't tried any lower yet. Completely stable with no perfcaps!
> 
> 
> EDIT: 1.05v is stable.
> 
> EDIT2: 1.043v is also stable....
> 
> EDIT3: Tried 1.031v, but it jumped up to 1.043v and then crashed. So it looks like 1.043v @ 2101/6003 is the lowest I can go.


dude. that is FILTHY.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh yes ... after almost 2 days of nonstop assambly and tinkering, i am very, very tired, but very happy! 2100MHz club without even touching the voltage curve, FireStrike Ultra and Heaven don't crash anymore, on even higher settings than before and the GPU now barely touches 40°C under extreme loads (FurMark & FireSTrike Ultra Stresstest).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll fall into my bed now, dedicated build-thread with pictures and walls of text will come tomorrow ... oh and benches
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers, out


Can't wait to see how it came out! Welcome to the club!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> dude. that is FILTHY.


Thanks man! I'm pumped. Didn't think I could get it that low.

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Great stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance you could share your curve / settings please for the 1.043v run ?


I will next time I'm home!


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Can't wait to see how it came out! Welcome to the club!
> Thanks man! I'm pumped. Didn't think I could get it that low.


I will next time I'm home![/quote]
That's awesome. I've settled on 2000 @ 1.000v It keeps temps at bay between 64-70 depending on power draw. Witcher 3 really draws alot of power at 1440p unlimited frames. Them damn waving trees.


----------



## DisposableHero7

OK, here it is - dedicated "field report" build of my new custom water cooling loop including my AORUS 1080TI Xtreme!

First watercooling build after 14 years, EKWB in a Corsair Obsidian 750D


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Great stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance you could share your curve / settings please for the 1.043v run ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> I will next time I'm home!


That's awesome. I've settled on 2000 @ 1.000v It keeps temps at bay between 64-70 depending on power draw. Witcher 3 really draws alot of power at 1440p unlimited frames. Them damn waving trees.[/quote]

Here is my voltage curve for 1.043v and 2100Mhz. Witcher 3 1440p 144hz approved









EDIT: Looks like it didn't upload correctly and I'm no longer home. I'll upload the picture tomorrow.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> That's awesome. I've settled on 2000 @ 1.000v It keeps temps at bay between 64-70 depending on power draw. Witcher 3 really draws alot of power at 1440p unlimited frames. Them damn waving trees.


Here is my voltage curve for 1.043v and 2100Mhz. Witcher 3 1440p 144hz approved







[/quote]

No curve attached ?


----------



## Baba Yaga

Hello,

I have been doing research on OC (first timer) and reading a lot about this card. I have been recently trying to OC my GPU to get better performance out of it. I first used Aorus eng and did the 1 click OC, but the fans were terrible in keeping temps down, and I read about how it is not accurate in terms of core and memory clock #s. I downloaded Afterburner, compared the 2, and found this to be true. I got rid of Aorus eng, and used Afterburner. After testing and benchmarking, I found my settings:
Bios: F3
Power: +125
Temp: +90
Core: +25
Memory: +390
Core Voltage: 0

Ran great for about 1-2 weeks then just yesterday (6-4-17) I started running into problems playing Overwatch (Epic Settings 1440p 165hz). It kept crashing after 5-10 mins of play. I ran a bench on Heavens and it crashed. I lowered memory settings and it kept crashing. Set it to what Aorus 1 click settings (core +25/memory +108/Temp & power 0) and crash. I set it to factory settings and ran it through. I then tried uninstalling all OC systems and ran heavens again on factory settings and crash.

I did not change core clock cause +25 ran smooth throughout all test.

Any help would be greatly appreciated?

I am running Heavens at Extreme.

My system:
I7 6700k (4.6)
CPU Cooler: Evo 212
Power: EVGA P2 850w
Monitor: 1440p @165hz Dell Gaming S2417DG YNY1D 24-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitor with G-SYNC


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Here is my voltage curve for 1.043v and 2100Mhz. Witcher 3 1440p 144hz approved


No curve attached ?[/quote]

Something got messed up and the picture didn't upload. I'm no longer home so I'll have to try again tomorrow.


----------



## Dirtydeedz

Looking for some help. Just wandering if this card will fit in my case. If it's more than 5.5" from the bottom of the cooler to the top. It's a no go.
This is my 780: 
Adjusted the 280mm cooler for some extra height.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> No curve attached ?


Try to benchmark that clock to make sure the internal GPU power management is running at 2100mhz. I ran 2100mhz at 1.093V and undervolt 1.062 last night. Both were Witcher 3 stable, both voltages definitely applied because there was a 40W power difference, however, the 1.062 scored consistently lower in Superposition.

I have this nagging suspicion that the terrible voltage regulation on this card is coming back to bite us. We don't have electronic built-in potentiometers like the AMD cards do so we cannot see the Vdroop. But I suspect the Aorus cards are suffering from one hell of a Vdroop compared to the other cards (the built in core power manager dynamically downclocks us a lot to maintain Vrel which we cannot see in GPUz) thus we are actually getting far less voltage than the VDDC suggests. Without hard mods though, I cannot confirm my suspicion.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baba Yaga*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I have been doing research on OC (first timer) and reading a lot about this card. I have been recently trying to OC my GPU to get better performance out of it. I first used Aorus eng and did the 1 click OC, but the fans were terrible in keeping temps down, and I read about how it is not accurate in terms of core and memory clock #s. I downloaded Afterburner, compared the 2, and found this to be true. I got rid of Aorus eng, and used Afterburner. After testing and benchmarking, I found my settings:
> Bios: F3
> Power: +125
> Temp: +90
> Core: +25
> Memory: +390
> Core Voltage: 0
> 
> Ran great for about 1-2 weeks then just yesterday (6-4-17) I started running into problems playing Overwatch (Epic Settings 1440p 165hz). It kept crashing after 5-10 mins of play. I ran a bench on Heavens and it crashed. I lowered memory settings and it kept crashing. Set it to what Aorus 1 click settings (core +25/memory +108/Temp & power 0) and crash. I set it to factory settings and ran it through. I then tried uninstalling all OC systems and ran heavens again on factory settings and crash.
> 
> I did not change core clock cause +25 ran smooth throughout all test.
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated?
> 
> I am running Heavens at Extreme.
> 
> My system:
> I7 6700k (4.6)
> CPU Cooler: Evo 212
> Power: EVGA P2 850w
> Monitor: 1440p @165hz Dell Gaming S2417DG YNY1D 24-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitor with G-SYNC


Whats your fan curve? GP102 is extremely sensitive to temperature fluctuations. Try running the fans at 100% and see if that helps.


----------



## herpderpsky

Hey guys I've been trying to get same skore as u guys in unigin but my best was 9946 dx 11 4k ? I think or is it dx12 ? I'm on a rayzen 1700x but I did get the best skore on time spy http://www.3dmark.com/spy/1869050


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herpderpsky*
> 
> Hey guys I've been trying to get same skore as u guys in unigin but my best was 9946 dx 11 4k ? I think or is it dx12 ? I'm on a rayzen 1700x but I did get the best skore on time spy http://www.3dmark.com/spy/1869050


To improve your scores:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps/0_30
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Try to benchmark that clock to make sure the internal GPU power management is running at 2100mhz. I ran 2100mhz at 1.093V and undervolt 1.062 last night. Both were Witcher 3 stable, both voltages definitely applied because there was a 40W power difference, however, the 1.062 scored consistently lower in Superposition.


I did notice that my scores were getting lower as I lowered the voltage, but the difference in score was less than 100 points between 1.043v and 1.093v. You do bring up a very good point and something that I have also noticed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Great stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any chance you could share your curve / settings please for the 1.043v run ?


Ok here is my voltage curve for 1.043v @ 2100Mhz.


----------



## herpderpsky

Hey guys can I do 8k with 2 of this cards and I didn't anderstand the last answer can I get the same skore with a rayzen 1700x coz I know u guys are on that Intel


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *herpderpsky*
> 
> Hey guys can I do 8k with 2 of this cards and I didn't anderstand the last answer can I get the same skore with a rayzen 1700x coz I know u guys are on that Intel


8k? Do you have an 8k monitor or something? Depends what you want to play I guess. Why do you want to game in 8k? Just wait until they release the 4k 144hz monitors and go SLI 1080 Ti for that. If you aren't playing above 60 FPS then you are missing out man. I'm keeping my PB270HU 1440p 144hz monitor until 4k 144hz becomes the new 1440p 144hz.

As for your last question, maybe, maybe not. I don't know. But looking at all the top 3dMark 1080 Ti scores, Intel seems to be better, but these people are using liquid nitrogen to get to -40C load temps. I'm sure during normal gaming you won't notice. As long as your CPU isn't bottlenecking the card then you're good. You can run Rivatuner in games and watch to make sure that your CPU load isn't at 100%.

Actually, now that I think about it, you might be CPU bottlenecked if you are running an 8k setup.


----------



## FL00D

Hey guys,

About to pull the trigger on the Xtreme but a bit worried after reading about it crashing in OC mode. Should I go for the non-Xtreme one? I see that F4 is available for both versions. What's the consensus, is the Xtreme still crashing after flashing the BIOS to F4?

Thanks


----------



## TucoPacifico

I am very pleased with the non-Xtreme, but I was one of the early-adopters and could have gotten a good one due to that fact.

2063MHz/11800MHz, 6201 points in Extreme 1080p SuperPosition and fully stable 20 minutes furmark stress - normal/quiet fan settings

2075 MHz/12000MHz - 6262 points in Extreme 1080p SuperPosition, Artifacts after 5 minutes furmark stress, so I settled with the settings 2063MHz/11800MHz.
Not bad I guess for a standard air-cooled setup. This is my experience with a non-Xtreme Aorus. I despise the visual look/style of them, but the cooling is very effective, good concept.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FL00D*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> About to pull the trigger on the Xtreme but a bit worried after reading about it crashing in OC mode. Should I go for the non-Xtreme one? I see that F4 is available for both versions. What's the consensus, is the Xtreme still crashing after flashing the BIOS to F4?
> 
> Thanks


From the experiences in this and many other forums, the Xtreme Edition is NOT worth the additional money Gigabyte charges for it. This might be a skewed perspective, but from what i have read and experienced myself, a meaningfull portion of the Xtremes seem to be faulty. And if you get a sample that actualy does what it is advertised (in clockspeeds), you'll find many non-xtreme users who achieve the same or even higher clocks.

My verdict:
Just save the extra bucks and get a non-Xtreme!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> From the experiences in this and many other forums, the Xtreme Edition is NOT worth the additional money Gigabyte charges for it. This might be a skewed perspective, but from what i have read and experienced myself, a meaningfull portion of the Xtremes seem to be faulty. And if you get a sample that actualy does what it is advertised (in clockspeeds), you'll find many non-xtreme users who achieve the same or even higher clocks.
> 
> My verdict:
> Just save the extra bucks and get a non-Xtreme!


I second this. Go with the regular Aorus you won't be disappointed!


----------



## FL00D

Cheers guys, much appreciated!


----------



## gpvecchi

I had a discussion on another forum: Aorus VS Strix?
What do you say?


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> I had a discussion on another forum: Aorus VS Strix?
> What do you say?


Aorus....because we already chose it?

Real answer: I chose aorus because I had issues with the first three cards I purchased. An Asus founders, an EVGA founders, MSI gaming X. Each one had its own issue. I didn't feel like doing any power mods like flashing bios (xoc, or strix) or shunt modding. So, ultimately I chose the one that had the highest power limit with quiet fans. I wanted the MSI gaming X to be "the one" because I love their fan's sound signature compared to the other companies. Gigabyte is silent in my system until about 75% then it creates a pulsing woosh which is a bit weird, but now that I've got my air flow situation sorted, the fans don't get that high.


----------



## avioni

new score this 10 series really like low temps. makes me want to do a full block water loop. as of now im just using the AC to keep temps down for benching.

this is under a fresh windows install, nvidia drivers set to high performance, turned off a lot of windows services 5.15ghz on the cpu, 3200mhz mem, 2126mhz on the gpu core and 6166mhz on the vram.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FL00D*
> 
> Cheers guys, much appreciated!


Oh, and one more thing. Don't use the Aorus software. Don't even download it. Download MSI Afterburner beta 6 or above. You will get much better results. Don't do that OC mode crap. Just get a nice curve going and you'll be all set.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avioni*
> 
> new score this 10 series really like low temps. makes me want to do a full block water loop. as of now im just using the AC to keep temps down for benching.
> 
> this is under a fresh windows install, nvidia drivers set to high performance, turned off a lot of windows services 5.15ghz on the cpu, 3200mhz mem, 2126mhz on the gpu core and 6166mhz on the vram.


Nice dude! You got a golden 6700k. I got a crap one that will only run 4.7Ghz at 1.38v. I see you've raised from 4.9Ghz on your other one and it looks like it helped. What voltage are you running for that and what is your LLC set at? I think that this is the highest score I've seen in this thread. Congrats man!

Have you been able to get higher than 2126? I'm having some issues getting stable clocks above that. The card just won't go above 1.093v... I've got a lot of headroom temp wise. Really wish we could mod these Pascal BIOS's. Man, I remember the good ole days where you just change a couple values and you have all the voltage you could ever need at your fingertips.


----------



## tepusg

The card just won't go above 1.093v... I've got a lot of headroom temp wise. Really wish we could mod these Pascal BIOS's. Man, I remember the good ole days where you just change a couple values and you have all the voltage you could ever need at your fingertips

Hi theres a XOC bios in the other thread (how to flash different bios to your 1080ti) that removes the power limit and allows voltage to be raised to 1.131. i Tried on a msi gaming x and gained another 50 mz,


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> Hi theres a XOC bios in the other thread (how to flash different bios to your 1080ti) that removes the power limit and allows voltage to be raised to 1.131. i Tried on a msi gaming x and gained another 50 mz,


I believe someone else here mentioned that, but they didn't get great results. Might try it just to try it.

@Slackaveli was that you?

or maybe it was @DisposableHero7 or @Benny89?

Idk. Which one of you tried it!

EDIT: Found it. Twas @Dasboogieman
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I just flashed the XOC BIOS on to my gigabyte Aorus. So far no problems but some interesting observations:
> 
> 1. Supo benches are lower despite unlimited power, I used to get 10248 (2050mhz + 12000 VRAM) but now it only gets 10085 at best with +700 on the VRAM same clocks/voltage
> 2. Absolutely zero power limitations
> 3. My fans actually ran faster lol, I suspect there is an additional 800RPM or so left in the fans that Gigabyte didn't tap in to but I dropped 5 degrees lol. Either the fans got more stronk, or theres a GPU temp offset at work for this BIOS
> 
> All up, I'm 99% sure the performance delta people are noticing with the XOC BIOS is solely due to the VRAM timings being helluva lot more loose, presumably because frequency is king at LN2 cooling.


----------



## Slackaveli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I believe someone else here mentioned that, but they didn't get great results. Might try it just to try it.
> 
> @Slackaveli was that you?
> 
> or maybe it was @DisposableHero7 or @Benny89?
> 
> Idk. Which one of you tried it!
> 
> EDIT: Found it. Twas @Dasboogieman


that's actually kind of awesome with that extra fan speed!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 8k? Do you have an 8k monitor or something? Depends what you want to play I guess. Why do you want to game in 8k? Just wait until they release the 4k 144hz monitors and go SLI 1080 Ti for that. If you aren't playing above 60 FPS then you are missing out man. I'm keeping my PB270HU 1440p 144hz monitor until 4k 144hz becomes the new 1440p 144hz.
> 
> As for your last question, maybe, maybe not. I don't know. But looking at all the top 3dMark 1080 Ti scores, Intel seems to be better, but these people are using liquid nitrogen to get to -40C load temps. I'm sure during normal gaming you won't notice. As long as your CPU isn't bottlenecking the card then you're good. You can run Rivatuner in games and watch to make sure that your CPU load isn't at 100%.
> 
> Actually, now that I think about it, you might be CPU bottlenecked if you are running an 8k setup.


I was running 11,900 x 2160 resolution running 3 x 4k monitors using Nvidia Surround, and that was using 2 x 980 Tis. I haven't tried it on this card yet. I'm using an LG C6 OLED TV as my monitor right now, but I might switch back over to using my 3 x 4K monitors since it's easier for me to use for work.

I'm on vacation right now and haven't ordered my EK waterblock for this card yet. Does anyone know if EK is the only one who has released a waterblock for this card or has anyone else released one? I like the look of some of the Heatkiller blocks, but being in Bora Bora, I don't want to sit around and search the internet all day. So, I just figured I'd ask if anyone knew if EK is the only waterblock available, from a name brand company of course.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> that's actually kind of awesome with that extra fan speed!


That's not applicable to me lol. I won't be home until tomorrow. Flash it and let me know how it goes!!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> I was running 11,900 x 2160 resolution running 3 x 4k monitors using Nvidia Surround, and that was using 2 x 980 Tis. I haven't tried it on this card yet. I'm using an LG C6 OLED TV as my monitor right now, but I might switch back over to using my 3 x 4K monitors since it's easier for me to use for work.
> 
> I'm on vacation right now and haven't ordered my EK waterblock for this card yet. Does anyone know if EK is the only one who has released a waterblock for this card or has anyone else released one? I like the look of some of the Heatkiller blocks, but being in Bora Bora, I don't want to sit around and search the internet all day. So, I just figured I'd ask if anyone knew if EK is the only waterblock available, from a name brand company of course.


There are crappy cheap ones from no name companies, but at the moment EK i the only one and I haven't heard any news about other companies releasing an Aorus block so I bought the EK one. Temps are so nice now.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Uhmmmm,

actually someone ELSE pointed out to me something he stumbled upon in one of my pictures from my custom watercooling loop build.

Did anyone of you realize that the EK AORUS waterblock leaves 2 chokes, 2 MOSfets and 4 controllerchip uncooled that actually are under pads with the original aircooler?



The 2 pads on the right cool that small group of VRMs seperated from all the others, probably the 2 Phases for the memory. While my cards memory runs fin atm, i don't know how i feel EK leaving these uncooled, when Gigabyte thought it would be a good idea to cool them?

What do you guys say?!?


----------



## ForNever

Yes. There are also 3 modules on the back, which have cutouts on the backplate, but no thermal pads are included, and the instructions say nothing about them. I wasn't happy about it, but hoping for the best. I understand they have to do what they can to keep production costs down.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Uhmmmm,
> 
> actually someone ELSE pointed out to me something he stumbled upon in one of my pictures from my custom watercooling loop build.
> 
> Did anyone of you realize that the EK AORUS waterblock leaves 2 chokes, 2 MOSfets and 4 controllerchip uncooled that actually are under pads with the original aircooler?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 pads on the right cool that small group of VRMs seperated from all the others, probably the 2 Phases for the memory. While my cards memory runs fin atm, i don't know how i feel EK leaving these uncooled, when Gigabyte thought it would be a good idea to cool them?
> 
> What do you guys say?!?


You are correct. It's a bummer that they aren't cooled, but sadly EK may have overlooked that aspect of this card.I guess you could stack thermal pads so it touches the block.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> You are correct. It's a bummer that they aren't cooled, but sadly EK may have overlooked that aspect of this card.I guess you could stack thermal pads so it touches the block.


Sadly not, as the copper block doesn't even extend there. it's only plexi there.

As for the backside, i took matters into my own hands and used every mm² of excess pad i had:


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Sadly not, as the copper block doesn't even extend there. it's only plexi there.
> 
> As for the backside, i took matters into my own hands and used every mm² of excess pad i had:


Nice! I only did the GPU area and that long strip for the backplate.


----------



## Mad Pistol

Removed. Wrong thread.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Oh, and one more thing. Don't use the Aorus software. Don't even download it. Download MSI Afterburner beta 6 or above. You will get much better results. Don't do that OC mode crap. Just get a nice curve going and you'll be all set.
> Nice dude! You got a golden 6700k. I got a crap one that will only run 4.7Ghz at 1.38v. I see you've raised from 4.9Ghz on your other one and it looks like it helped. What voltage are you running for that and what is your LLC set at? I think that this is the highest score I've seen in this thread. Congrats man!
> 
> Have you been able to get higher than 2126? I'm having some issues getting stable clocks above that. The card just won't go above 1.093v... I've got a lot of headroom temp wise. Really wish we could mod these Pascal BIOS's. Man, I remember the good ole days where you just change a couple values and you have all the voltage you could ever need at your fingertips.


clocks for bench are nowhere near what i use daily. my cpu is not golden IMO. i use 4.5ghz for daily use at 1.34v for the benching i used 1.52v and disabled virtualization and HT. im on msi gaming m7 and llc only has one setting either on or off. so its on the only step it has for on. the chip is also delided and under the AC temps it has no issues keeping super cool temps. on the GPU side the lower i can get temps the better the memory clocks and core as well. it managed to complete a bench at 2138 or 2132 cant remember the next step above 2126. but during the bench it was droping to 2126 probably cause hitting that power limit? cant see other reason. temp must be below 40c as well otherwise it will crash. same goes for memory it can do 6142 up to 46c and right when it hits 47c it starts getting those weird neon artifacts when i increase it to 6166 its great up to 42c at wich point itll simply crash. im ok for now and wont be trying to push further for now. the reason i kept pushing is cause i had a friendly competition locally, so that made me go and do a clean install ect... wich i would not do normally. I still lost the competition. the other guy somehow went from under my score to 11500 points. not sure what he did, he used lower clocks so i suspect some modding i think LOD tweaking either way at that point i just gave up on trying to push any higher and to be honest i dont think its even possible to squish a bit more on my system.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Uhmmmm,
> 
> actually someone ELSE pointed out to me something he stumbled upon in one of my pictures from my custom watercooling loop build.
> 
> Did anyone of you realize that the EK AORUS waterblock leaves 2 chokes, 2 MOSfets and 4 controllerchip uncooled that actually are under pads with the original aircooler?
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 pads on the right cool that small group of VRMs seperated from all the others, probably the 2 Phases for the memory. While my cards memory runs fin atm, i don't know how i feel EK leaving these uncooled, when Gigabyte thought it would be a good idea to cool them?
> 
> What do you guys say?!?


those are for memory and rated up to 125c theyll be ok.


----------



## herpderpsky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> 8k? Do you have an 8k monitor or something? Depends what you want to play I guess. Why do you want to game in 8k? Just wait until they release the 4k 144hz monitors and go SLI 1080 Ti for that. If you aren't playing above 60 FPS then you are missing out man. I'm keeping my PB270HU 1440p 144hz monitor until 4k 144hz becomes the new 1440p 144hz.
> 
> As for your last question, maybe, maybe not. I don't know. But looking at all the top 3dMark 1080 Ti scores, Intel seems to be better, but these people are using liquid nitrogen to get to -40C load temps. I'm sure during normal gaming you won't notice. As long as your CPU isn't bottlenecking the card then you're good. You can run Rivatuner in games and watch to make sure that your CPU load isn't at 100%.
> 
> Actually, now that I think about it, you might be CPU bottlenecked if you are running an 8k setup.


thx man, ima get that cpu - 25c with tec chillers well ill try lol I got second place on time spy but that's dx12 I think and on unigin 9950 4k dx? 11 ? I think 109 place








I work with C.N.C ill make it all my self I got 2 535 watt tecs so ya god dame u amd always so hot but its better than my last 8350 lol









I need 8k for 10k star vr



but ya occt 4ghz 100% utilization on 1700x crash right away lol can only pass it @ 3.850 ghz max temp 80 c
in games its utilization is 30 to 40% in doom 50 to 60 % works fine 70 to 90 c lol

just got dis sweet oc on my timings


----------



## smithsrt8

My Aorus (non-extreme version) 1080 ti story
Gigabyte is going through with an advanced replacement on my card...after dealing with a card that was one month old and it never even saw PCIe 3.0 x16 (it wouldn't go past x4) they are going to replace it...I begged them to not do a normal RMA because they take forever and they upgraded me to Advanced Replacement...although I dont know how advanced it is seeing as they have already charged my credit card on file $720 before I have/had any shipping notifications...I am patiently waiting as my EKWB showed up last week and I am not going to tear apart a card that is going in for a RMA process...What kind of temp differences did you guys see with the waterblock (I know it is very early seeing as they literally just released the water blocks) During gaming (The Division or Dawn of War 3) I will see temps of 75ish


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tepusg*
> 
> The card just won't go above 1.093v... I've got a lot of headroom temp wise. Really wish we could mod these Pascal BIOS's. Man, I remember the good ole days where you just change a couple values and you have all the voltage you could ever need at your fingertips
> 
> Hi theres a XOC bios in the other thread (how to flash different bios to your 1080ti) that removes the power limit and allows voltage to be raised to 1.131. i Tried on a msi gaming x and gained another 50 mz,


There is no point messing with too much voltage unless you have the requisite cooling. I played around with that XOC BIOS and the Current BIOS. I'm convinced GP102 has a built in hardware monitoring and regulation chip that cannot be overridden by the BIOS.
Basically this controller dynamically trims the performance of your chip in an attempt to optimize voltage stability and power draw. At a certain point of voltage, the controller starts knocking off frequency bins (which cannot be seen in monitoring software, only in lower performance) to maintain power or temp limits.

For example, take my card on the current F4 BIOS. On water, I can run both 2100mhz all day on 1.093V and 1.062V. GPUz confirms the clockspeed but I get consistently lower scores with 1.062V, this means the real boost bin is actually lower on 1.062V due to Vrel. Just as an experiment to see what would happen, I set the 1.13V bin (I'm aware it does nothing on the non-XOC BIOS) to 2113mhz and viola! the 2100mhz bin got a little bit more performance and now a Vrel thing pops up on GPUz (as opposed to Vmax which means you are at the max voltage the BIOS allows).
TLDR: this chip has hardware that makes it do whatever the hell it wants so I am dubious if the XOC BIOS is actually giving you higher clocks because its not reflected in the performance, don't even get me started on the VRAM strap differences, thats another can of worms entirely.

Mmmm it seems
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Uhmmmm,
> 
> actually someone ELSE pointed out to me something he stumbled upon in one of my pictures from my custom watercooling loop build.
> 
> Did anyone of you realize that the EK AORUS waterblock leaves 2 chokes, 2 MOSfets and 4 controllerchip uncooled that actually are under pads with the original aircooler?
> 
> 
> 
> The 2 pads on the right cool that small group of VRMs seperated from all the others, probably the 2 Phases for the memory. While my cards memory runs fin atm, i don't know how i feel EK leaving these uncooled, when Gigabyte thought it would be a good idea to cool them?
> 
> What do you guys say?!?


Kind of expected because the FE PCB has the VRAM VRMs as part of the main array so I think EK wasn't willing to extend the complexity of their block (hence more cost and weight). That being said, the VRMs on the Aorus is ridiculously overkill already and pretty high efficiency too (iirc 87% or so) so their heat output is pretty small. What I did was applied some thermal putty to the underside on the backplate and I'm confident that should be enough.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> My Aorus (non-extreme version) 1080 ti story
> Gigabyte is going through with an advanced replacement on my card...after dealing with a card that was one month old and it never even saw PCIe 3.0 x16 (it wouldn't go past x4) they are going to replace it...I begged them to not do a normal RMA because they take forever and they upgraded me to Advanced Replacement...although I dont know how advanced it is seeing as they have already charged my credit card on file $720 before I have/had any shipping notifications...I am patiently waiting as my EKWB showed up last week and I am not going to tear apart a card that is going in for a RMA process...What kind of temp differences did you guys see with the waterblock (I know it is very early seeing as they literally just released the water blocks) During gaming (The Division or Dawn of War 3) I will see temps of 75ish


Assuming a flow rate of 1 GPM, 400W heat load (essentially your GPU only) and the pedestrian amount of rad at 240mm 54mm thickness + 1750RPM fans of adequate static pressure, you can expect a DeltaT of 13C degrees give or take 2C.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> My Aorus (non-extreme version) 1080 ti story
> Gigabyte is going through with an advanced replacement on my card...after dealing with a card that was one month old and it never even saw PCIe 3.0 x16 (it wouldn't go past x4) they are going to replace it...I begged them to not do a normal RMA because they take forever and they upgraded me to Advanced Replacement...although I dont know how advanced it is seeing as they have already charged my credit card on file $720 before I have/had any shipping notifications...I am patiently waiting as my EKWB showed up last week and I am not going to tear apart a card that is going in for a RMA process...What kind of temp differences did you guys see with the waterblock (I know it is very early seeing as they literally just released the water blocks) During gaming (The Division or Dawn of War 3) I will see temps of 75ish


That IS the advanced replacement.

Gigabyte does it occasionaly, EVGA offers it for every EVGA owner. They will send you a replacement card, but they will always charge you a security deposit first. Once they have the deposit, the new card is send to you and you have to send back the old card. Once they have received the old card and tested it (and conclude that YOU didn't damage it), they'll tansfer the deposit back to you.

As far as what temps you can expect? We would have to know your PC components that are watercooled and the configuration of your loop. With my system, the drop in temps for the GPU where kinda phenomenal









Ambient room temperatur here was about 23-24°c in the last few days, and the card now idles at 27-28°C. With the aircooler it idled at 35-36°C.
Thats a Delta T of only 4°C for idle and an improvement of 8 Kelvin compared to the aircooler.

In games (Subnautica, Prey, PUBG) and benchmarks (Superposition, Heaven, Valley, 3DMark Fire Strike Ultra, Time Spy...) the card reaches temps between 32-36°C now, when it was 65-70° with the aircooler! FurMark with extreme GPU stress settings tops out at 40°C now. It takes a bit more than 10 minutes to reach 40°C, and then never exceeds it, even after more than 1 hour of stressing. The aircooler would reach 80°C after about 20 Minutes....

A Delta T of 9-12°C in games and regular benchmarks and 16°C under extreme GPU torture. Or an improovement of 33-34 Kelvin in games and 40 Kelvin under torture. I didn't expect it to work out this well before i built the system!

My cooling loop is:
EK 15cm plexi reservoir -> EK D5 pump -> CoolStream XE 240 Radiator -> EK Asus M8G Monoblock -> CoolStream PE 360 -> EK AORUS 1080 TI waterblock -> reservoir. Fans are EK Vardar running at 1000 / 1100 rpm.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> That IS the advanced replacement.
> 
> Gigabyte does it occasionaly, EVGA offers it for every EVGA owner. They will send you a replacement card, but they will always charge you a security deposit first. Once they have the deposit, the new card is send to you and you have to send back the old card. Once they have received the old card and tested it (and conclude that YOU didn't damage it), they'll tansfer the deposit back to you.
> 
> As far as what temps you can expect? We would have to know your PC components that are watercooled and the configuration of your loop. With my system, the drop in temps for the GPU where kinda phenomenal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ambient room temperatur here was about 23-24°c in the last few days, and the card now idles at 27-28°C. With the aircooler it idled at 35-36°C.
> Thats a Delta T of only 4°C for idle and an improvement of 8 Kelvin compared to the aircooler.
> 
> In games (Subnautica, Prey, PUBG) and benchmarks (Superposition, Heaven, Valley, 3DMark Fire Strike Ultra, Time Spy...) the card reaches temps between 32-36°C now, when it was 65-70° with the aircooler! FurMark with extreme GPU stress settings tops out at 40°C now. It takes a bit more than 10 minutes to reach 40°C, and then never exceeds it, even after more than 1 hour of stressing. The aircooler would reach 80°C after about 20 Minutes....
> 
> A Delta T of 9-12°C in games and regular benchmarks and 16°C under extreme GPU torture. Or an improovement of 33-34 Kelvin in games and 40 Kelvin under torture. I didn't expect it to work out this well before i built the system!
> 
> My cooling loop is:
> EK 15cm plexi reservoir -> EK D5 pump -> CoolStream XE 240 Radiator -> EK Asus M8G Monoblock -> CoolStream PE 360 -> EK AORUS 1080 TI waterblock -> reservoir. Fans are EK Vardar running at 1000 / 1100 rpm.


My loop has the following-
EK Revo 140ml D5 - Alphacool XT45 240mm - Supremacy EVO Elite (I got a good deal on it, otherwise I would not have spent that much on a waterblock) - Alphacool XT45 240mm - EK Aorus 1080 ti waterblock - Alphacool UT60 X-flow 120mm - Reservoir....My fans are Phantek 120mp (I am using the 120mm UT60 in the back in a push/pull config)

I am hoping to keep fans at about 900-1000rpm and keep my CPU/GPU temps under 45c...my ambient temps in my room are about 20-23c....right now on air my gpu with 50%fans idles at about 35-38c (stock cooler, it seems to run warm) and my CPU idles at 31c (Fractal Celsius S36)


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> My loop has the following-
> EK Revo 140ml D5 - Alphacool XT45 240mm - Supremacy EVO Elite (I got a good deal on it, otherwise I would not have spent that much on a waterblock) - Alphacool XT45 240mm - EK Aorus 1080 ti waterblock - Alphacool UT60 X-flow 120mm - Reservoir....My fans are Phantek 120mp (I am using the 120mm UT60 in the back in a push/pull config)
> 
> I am hoping to keep fans at about 900-1000rpm and keep my CPU/GPU temps under 45c...my ambient temps in my room are about 20-23c....right now on air my gpu with 50%fans idles at about 35-38c (stock cooler, it seems to run warm) and my CPU idles at 31c (Fractal Celsius S36)


Drawing conclusions from my PC over to yours (if that is reliable possible):

So you've got the same general heat dissipation footprint (5x 120mm = 600mm), thicknesswide i guess its is quite balanced (my 240 is 60mm thick, my 360 is 38mm). Your Supremecy Evo is comparable to my Monoblock, BUT i am cooling the mainboard VRMs, too. All in all your cooling setup is qite comparable to mine, but trends towards beeing more powerfull. Including your lower ambient temperatures, your CPU and GPU temps should also be lower than mine by an appropriate margin!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Ambient room temperatur here was about 23-24°c in the last few days, and the card now idles at 27-28°C. With the aircooler it idled at 35-36°C.
> Thats a Delta T of only 4°C for idle and an improvement of 8 Kelvin compared to the aircooler.
> 
> In games (Subnautica, Prey, PUBG) and benchmarks (Superposition, Heaven, Valley, 3DMark Fire Strike Ultra, Time Spy...) the card reaches temps between 32-36°C now, when it was 65-70° with the aircooler! FurMark with extreme GPU stress settings tops out at 40°C now. It takes a bit more than 10 minutes to reach 40°C, and then never exceeds it, even after more than 1 hour of stressing. The aircooler would reach 80°C after about 20 Minutes....
> 
> A Delta T of 9-12°C in games and regular benchmarks and 16°C under extreme GPU torture. Or an improovement of 33-34 Kelvin in games and 40 Kelvin under torture. I didn't expect it to work out this well before i built the system!
> 
> My cooling loop is:
> EK 15cm plexi reservoir -> EK D5 pump -> CoolStream XE 240 Radiator -> EK Asus M8G Monoblock -> CoolStream PE 360 -> EK AORUS 1080 TI waterblock -> reservoir. Fans are EK Vardar running at 1000 / 1100 rpm.


Damn man that card must have had no paste on it! Mine reached 63C TOPS!

Our watercooled results are almost exactly the same though with the same ambient temps. The highest temp I've seen is 49C under water and that was when the room was really hot after gaming for hours. Had to open the door and let the heat out!

My cooling loop is EK D5 pump top/reservoir w/ MCP655 > Alphacool UT30 240mm 30mm thick > Alphacool XT45 420mm 45mm thick > EK Gigabyte G1 Gaming 7 Monoblock > EK Aorus block > Alphacool Monsta 360mm 80mm thick radiator > MCP655 w/ EK pump top > back to res/pump top. I'm running some B-Gears fans. I run them around 2000RPM. They're pretty quiet. So glad I don't have to listen to that air cooler anymore even though it was very quiet at 100%.


----------



## DisposableHero7

OK,

today i finaly got arround to take the time to see what i can squeeze out of that now watercooled AORUS TI. After literaly hours of playing arround with basic offsets, finetuing the voltage-curve in afterburner, double-checking RAM clocks vs. their error correction and actual frames etc. pp. i now have found my highest, rock stable OC.

*New 24/7 rock-stable settings:*
With 100% core voltage and 125% power target (F3 Bios = 375watts) the card now runs at 2100MHz with 1,083 volts max..

*Temperatures:*
Unigine Heaven, Valley & Superposition, 3DMark Time Spy & Fire Strike Ultra and FurMark GPU StressTest all run these settings flawlessly for dozens of runs each. Temperatures of the GPU during those runs went a little bit up due to modified voltage curve. The benchmarks now reach 38°C, while interestingly FurMark StressTest did not go beyond 40°C!

*Consistency of clocks:*
All the Unigine Engine benchmarks keep the 2100MHz up all the time, throughout all runs - not a single drop to lower clocks. The same applies to the FurMark GPU StressTest.

However both 3DMark benches very sporadically show a power target hit and clock down to 2088 or 2076 for fractions of a second, then the power target warning dissappears and clocks go up to 2100 MHz again. This happens in TimeSpy benchmark, FireStrike Ultra benchmark and in FireStrike Ultra StressTest alike.

*Achieved scores:*

Heaven benchmark:
154.9 FPS average - Score 3901

Valley benchmark:
147.1 FPS average - Score 6155

Sup. benchmark "1080p extreme":
Score 6215

Sup. benchmark "4K Optimized":
Score 9980

Time Spy benchmark:
Score 9637

FireStrike U. benchmark:
Score 7566

FireStrike U. StressTest:
Reliability 97.4%

*Footer:*
I had two more settings, one with 2113 MHz and one with 2126MHz. Both would run with Superposition & Valley benchmarks, but reset the gfx driver under Heaven, TimeSpy and FireStrike. Superposition got 6251 points with 2126MHz, Valley got a score of 6242. But since these settings where not realy stable, i will abstain from ever using them.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> OK,
> 
> today i finaly got arround to take the time to see what i can squeeze out of that now watercooled AORUS TI. After literaly hours of playing arround with basic offsets, finetuing the voltage-curve in afterburner, double-checking RAM clocks vs. their error correction and actual frames etc. pp. i now have found my highest, rock stable OC.
> 
> *New 24/7 rock-stable settings:*
> With 100% core voltage and 125% power target (F3 Bios = 375watts) the card now runs at 2100MHz with 1,083 volts max..
> 
> *Temperatures:*
> Unigine Heaven, Valley & Superposition, 3DMark Time Spy & Fire Strike Ultra and FurMark GPU StressTest all run these settings flawlessly for dozens of runs each. Temperatures of the GPU during those runs went a little bit up due to modified voltage curve. The benchmarks now reach 38°C, while interestingly FurMark StressTest did not go beyond 40°C!
> 
> *Consistency of clocks:*
> All the Unigine Engine benchmarks keep the 2100MHz up all the time, throughout all runs - not a single drop to lower clocks. The same applies to the FurMark GPU StressTest.
> 
> However both 3DMark benches very sporadically show a power target hit and clock down to 2088 or 2076 for fractions of a second, then the power target warning dissappears and clocks go up to 2100 MHz again. This happens in TimeSpy benchmark, FireStrike Ultra benchmark and in FireStrike Ultra StressTest alike.
> 
> *Achieved scores:*
> 
> Heaven benchmark:
> 154.9 FPS average - Score 3901
> 
> Valley benchmark:
> 147.1 FPS average - Score 6155
> 
> Sup. benchmark "1080p extreme":
> Score 6215
> 
> Sup. benchmark "4K Optimized":
> Score 9980
> 
> Time Spy benchmark:
> Score 9637
> 
> FireStrike U. benchmark:
> Score 7566
> 
> FireStrike U. StressTest:
> Reliability 97.4%
> 
> *Footer:*
> I had two more settings, one with 2113 MHz and one with 2126MHz. Both would run with Superposition & Valley benchmarks, but reset the gfx driver under Heaven, TimeSpy and FireStrike. Superposition got 6251 points with 2126MHz, Valley got a score of 6242. But since these settings where not realy stable, i will abstain from ever using them.


The best I can do with the card running the way it is right now is 6120 in Superposition...I think I can squeeze another hundred or so out when the PCIe is working correctly...(the proper x16 instead of x4)


----------



## Emmanuel

I had a feeling my card was already great on air, seems like water is truly unleashing its potential. I'm able to bench (3DMark firestrike and Superposition 4K) at 2151MHz, and no OC on the memory yet. I am no longer getting any perfcaps all over the place, and my card stays pinned at 1.094v, no more bin drops!!!











Fitting the block on the card was a real pain. In my case I had to substitute an entire row of 1mm thermal pads with leftover 0.5mm because otherwise the whole row of VRMs right before it would not make contact with the block at all, and on top of that the card was visibly bending. Take a look at this picture and let me know what you think about the different memory chip locations, is one PCB layout the one of a regular Aorus?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> I had a feeling my card was already great on air, seems like water is truly unleashing its potential. I'm able to bench (3DMark firestrike and Superposition 4K) at 2151MHz, and no OC on the memory yet. I am no longer getting any perfcaps all over the place, and my card stays pinned at 1.094v, no more bin drops!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fitting the block on the card was a real pain. In my case I had to substitute an entire row of 1mm thermal pads with leftover 0.5mm because otherwise the whole row of VRMs right before it would not make contact with the block at all, and on top of that the card was visibly bending. Take a look at this picture and let me know what you think about the different memory chip locations, is one PCB layout the one of a regular Aorus?


No practical differnce. Although academically, the commin disabled VRAM near the VRMs is theoretically more optimal because you are only exposing 3 VRAM modiles to the VRM heat instead of 4.


----------



## Emmanuel

I'm happy with my inferior model since it overclocks nearly 100MHz higher on air than the previous one.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Guys i need help asap i flashed the XOC BIOS successfully but when i rebooted my monitor no longer turns on. I'm using Displayport with a pb270hu which id's 1440p 144hz. The computer turns on and goes to the desktop but there is no image on the monitor. I can't use any other cables it only has one display


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Guys i need help asap i flashed the XOC BIOS successfully but when i rebooted my monitor no longer turns on. I'm using Displayport with a pb270hu which id's 1440p 144hz. The computer turns on and goes to the desktop but there is no image on the monitor. I can't use any other cables it only has one display


Try a different port, theres 3 display ports to choose from, try them all.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Try a different port, theres 3 display ports to choose from, try them all.


My monitor only has one displayport I'm going to drag up an old 720p tv with hdmi and is that doesn't work I'm screwed.

EDIT: So HDMI worked fine, but no matter what I did I could not get displayport working so I had to flash my old BIOS back to get my DP working again. Is it that the XOC BIOS doesn't support DP?


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> My monitor only has one displayport I'm going to drag up an old 720p tv with hdmi and is that doesn't work I'm screwed.
> 
> EDIT: So HDMI worked fine, but no matter what I did I could not get displayport working so I had to flash my old BIOS back to get my DP working again. Is it that the XOC BIOS doesn't support DP?


did you try another display port on the card?? I think xoc bios disables the first displayport on the card.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> did you try another display port on the card?? I think xoc bios disables the first displayport on the card.


I tried all three and none of them worked. I used nvflash and not nvflash64 so I'm not sure if that had anything to do with it since the directions said to use nvflash64. I just downloaded a link for a zip file in the OP of the flashing thread with the XOC BIOS, nvflash.exe, and nvflash64.sys in it so I just CD'd to that directory and flashed after disabling protection. It said the flash was successful and that a reboot was required for it to take effect. Once I rebooted my monitor went into standby, but I could hear the computer entering windows. Tried all 3 ports and even tried the iGPU on the motherboard and that didn't even work! So I had to use an HDMI with an old TV. I reinstalled the drivers cleanly and tried to use displayport again, but again there was nothing so I had to flash back to the stock .rom file.

So disappointing. I was really hoping to get some more voltage out of this card.

@Dasboogieman Did you use a displayport connection when you flashed your Aorus to the XOC BIOS? I'm trying to figure out if I should try this again.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> I tried all three and none of them worked. I used nvflash and not nvflash64 so I'm not sure if that had anything to do with it since the directions said to use nvflash64. I just downloaded a link for a zip file in the OP of the flashing thread with the XOC BIOS, nvflash.exe, and nvflash64.sys in it so I just CD'd to that directory and flashed after disabling protection. It said the flash was successful and that a reboot was required for it to take effect. Once I rebooted my monitor went into standby, but I could hear the computer entering windows. Tried all 3 ports and even tried the iGPU on the motherboard and that didn't even work! So I had to use an HDMI with an old TV. I reinstalled the drivers cleanly and tried to use displayport again, but again there was nothing so I had to flash back to the stock .rom file.
> 
> So disappointing. I was really hoping to get some more voltage out of this card.
> 
> @Dasboogieman Did you use a displayport connection when you flashed your Aorus to the XOC BIOS? I'm trying to figure out if I should try this again.


This has to do with Gigabytes "special" implementation of ports on the AORUS. Our card has 2 more ports than what 1080ti usualy supports by NVIDIA. Thats why the AORUS Bios even comes in 2 versions from Gigabyte, you have to choose the correct one, depending on if you either want DVI, OR 2 more HDMI ports. Remember this:



Yes, in this picture, DP is active always, BUT due to this whole setup, adressing of the graphics ports is shifted. AORUS Bios corrects this with some parameters, the bioses of other cards naturaly don't account for this, so some ports will not work with the bioses of other manufacturers ....


----------



## avioni

i dont know man you think its worth risking it for a little 50mhz bump tops?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Oh....

while i was browsing the internet for a source for "Barrow" fittings and adapters, i stumbled upon this:

Barrows AORUS TI FullCover Waterblock

They also did a full cover water block for tha AORUS 1080 TI ... and they DID NOT forget to include the RAM phase vrms, unlike EK did.

Anyone "adventurous" enough to order one and try it out?


----------



## ForNever

Good find. Unfortunately I'm tapped out after the card + water block purchase though. I see that one actually cools the modules the EK one does not though. That's irritating.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Alright so I took another attempt at flashing the XOC BIOS. This time I (1) used nvflash64 instead of the nvflash that was included with the zip file with the BIOS in it and I (2) plugged my monitor into DisplayPort the DP2 port on the card before flashing.

Good news, it worked flawlessly. Bad news, with the same clock speed of 2126/6000 I scored almost 400 points lower in Superposition. Seems it just doesn't fit well to this card.

So I'm back to the stock ROM.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Oh....
> 
> while i was browsing the internet for a source for "Barrow" fittings and adapters, i stumbled upon this:
> 
> Barrows AORUS TI FullCover Waterblock
> 
> They also did a full cover water block for tha AORUS 1080 TI ... and they DID NOT forget to include the RAM phase vrms, unlike EK did.
> 
> Anyone "adventurous" enough to order one and try it out?


I'll pass on that one...my "advanced replacement" card from Gigabyte shows up on monday so I can then finally complete my build...Gigabyte had a hard time believing that the card was "stuck" in x4 instead of x16...I did score pretty well in benchmarks but I am excited to see what this card can do when it is fully functioning. All of my watercooling stuff has been sitting in my garage ready to be installed...


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Oh....
> 
> while i was browsing the internet for a source for "Barrow" fittings and adapters, i stumbled upon this:
> 
> Barrows AORUS TI FullCover Waterblock
> 
> They also did a full cover water block for tha AORUS 1080 TI ... and they DID NOT forget to include the RAM phase vrms, unlike EK did.
> 
> Anyone "adventurous" enough to order one and try it out?












http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/810_30#post_26079371

http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/649.html

Additional the fins are smaller - I don't know if this is an advantage...

Hmm where are the RAM phase vrms located?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/810_30#post_26079371
> 
> http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/649.html
> 
> Additional the fins are smaller - I don't know if this is an advantage...


Woops, seems i was late there ^^

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Hmm where are the RAM phase vrms located?




vs.



Actually someone else had to point it out to me, when he saw it in MY own buil report ....


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Oh....
> 
> while i was browsing the internet for a source for "Barrow" fittings and adapters, i stumbled upon this:
> 
> Barrows AORUS TI FullCover Waterblock
> 
> They also did a full cover water block for tha AORUS 1080 TI ... and they DID NOT forget to include the RAM phase vrms, unlike EK did.
> 
> Anyone "adventurous" enough to order one and try it out?


The design is very EK-ish. Hard to tell from the picture but it looks like it has more + deeper fins. There is also a larger pressure relief channel nearer towards the VRMs. This means that this is comparable restriction wise to EK but the core VRM temperatures will suffer.

However, the VRAM VRM cooling is welcome and is definitely a win (though it is of dubious overall benefit).

All in all, I have significant concerns over quality, being a chinese product. Plexi top, O-rings, metal plating quality, manufacturing tolerances. Thus I would not trust this block until the company has proven itself more.


----------



## UdoG

What are about the backplate? Maybe you can use still the original one...

Below you will find the instruction for the 1080 - unfortunately I found no download for the 1080TI.

http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/632.html


----------



## FL00D

Hey guys,

Got the non-extreme version yesterday, popped it into place than ran a 3DMark stress test (ultra) for about an hour. It seems to be stable at Gigabyte's OC clock speed (1,708MHz) but of course it's still early days as I've not played any games yet...

Max boost clock speed is 1,950MHz but it drops to around 1,750MHz. At that speed the GPU is ~73c and AB is constantly indicating power limit. What's interesting is that I need to set a very high power limit to be able to sustain higher clock speeds. At 140-150% GPU clock speed is around 1,950MHz without dropping to lower clock speeds but temp goes all the way up to 79-80c.

Not sure if using such a high power limit for 24/7 is a good idea?


----------



## oysta

after playing around in afterburner and benchmarking, my card under OC mode was not stable. adding voltage my card was actually stable on air at 2088 but i also found that increasing voltage and clock did not yield more performance. 2038 at 1.063 on my card was actually benching the highest. this was a interesting find for me


----------



## Emmanuel

I had to tone down my OC down to 2125MHz to be stable in Wildlands, so far it's been stable for a couple hours, hoping to keep it there.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oysta*
> 
> after playing around in afterburner and benchmarking, my card under OC mode was not stable. adding voltage my card was actually stable on air at 2088 but i also found that increasing voltage and clock did not yield more performance. 2038 at 1.063 on my card was actually benching the highest. this was a interesting find for me


This is because these cards have built in HW monitoring modules directly on die. This kinda does whatever it wants to trim the power usage so you can't even see the throttling in software monitoring, only in reduced performance.

The higher voltage bins than 1.062 are likely to be tripping internal power or Vrel limitations which you cannot see. The biggest difference is when you get these cards under water and drastically drop the operating temperatures. The performance of the higher voltage bins actually goes up.

TLDR: 1.062v on air means something very different to 1.062v under water despite the same clockspeeds.


----------



## oysta

Thank you for the explanation really appreciate it.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> This is because these cards have built in HW monitoring modules directly on die. This kinda does whatever it wants to trim the power usage so you can't even see the throttling in software monitoring, only in reduced performance.
> 
> The higher voltage bins than 1.062 are likely to be tripping internal power or Vrel limitations which you cannot see. The biggest difference is when you get these cards under water and drastically drop the operating temperatures. The performance of the higher voltage bins actually goes up.
> 
> TLDR: 1.062v on air means something very different to 1.062v under water despite the same clockspeeds.


this makes sense and would explain why i kept seeing higher scores relative to how cold i could keep the gpu.


----------



## lsantana954

Hello guys new member here and still a noob to the whole overclocking thing despite this being the third card i've overclocked. The previous ones being a msi 1070 and a msi 970.

been messing around with the overclocking on my Aorus GTX 1080 TI Xtreme on witcher 3 and dont know if the numbers i'm getting are acceptable. Also yesterday the FPS was acting really weird.

Using the Auros Graphic Engine(which i've removed) i could not get the game to play in the OC preset. On unigine the same OC preset would also cause a crash. On the game mode things were fine. I'm thinking about submitting a repair ticket with gigabyte for this, i figured at any of those factory presets you should be able to play a GPU intense game like witcher 3.

Using MSI afterburner the highest clock and mem offsets i've been able to set have been +15 core/+25 memory with temp and power limits maxed out and a custom fan curve(85%@63C). I know these cards don't take much additional overclocking but just curious as to whether these would be acceptable.

Yesterday while playing witcher 3 with the same settings above something weird happened. At some point the FPS would drop to around 25 and the only way to "reset" it was to reset the computer. This happened a few times. Today i have yet to notice it.

My system is a Aorus Z270X with a 7700K oc to 4.8 with 16gb of 3200 memory and a evga g3 750w psu. Below are some benchmarks i ran on unigine. In all of these the temps never got above 63C with the fan curve i have set on afterburner.

Aorus 1080ti
CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk 0 MemClk 0
FPS 89.7 Score 2259 MaxFPS 203.4

CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +25 MemClk +110
FPS 90.8 Score 2287 MaxFPS 199.4

CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +23 MemClk +156
FPS 90.6 Score 2283 MaxFPS 208.5

CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +23 MemClk +106
FPS 91.2 Score 2296 MaxFPS 211

CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +16 MemClk +106
FPS 91.5 Score 2306 MaxFPS 207.5

CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +16 MemClk +50
FPS 90 Score 2267 MaxFPS 206.9

CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +16 MemClk +175
FPS 90.7 Score 2284 MaxFPS 207.3

Aorus Gaming mode
FPS 88.7 Score 2235 MaxFPS 199.1
Aorus OC mode
CRASH


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> Hello guys new member here and still a noob to the whole overclocking thing despite this being the third card i've overclocked. The previous ones being a msi 1070 and a msi 970.
> 
> been messing around with the overclocking on my Aorus GTX 1080 TI Xtreme on witcher 3 and dont know if the numbers i'm getting are acceptable. Also yesterday the FPS was acting really weird.
> 
> Using the Auros Graphic Engine(which i've removed) i could not get the game to play in the OC preset. On unigine the same OC preset would also cause a crash. On the game mode things were fine. I'm thinking about submitting a repair ticket with gigabyte for this, i figured at any of those factory presets you should be able to play a GPU intense game like witcher 3.
> 
> Using MSI afterburner the highest clock and mem offsets i've been able to set have been +15 core/+25 memory with temp and power limits maxed out and a custom fan curve(85%@63C). I know these cards don't take much additional overclocking but just curious as to whether these would be acceptable.
> 
> Yesterday while playing witcher 3 with the same settings above something weird happened. At some point the FPS would drop to around 25 and the only way to "reset" it was to reset the computer. This happened a few times. Today i have yet to notice it.
> 
> My system is a Aorus Z270X with a 7700K oc to 4.8 with 16gb of 3200 memory and a evga g3 750w psu. Below are some benchmarks i ran on unigine. In all of these the temps never got above 63C with the fan curve i have set on afterburner.
> 
> Aorus 1080ti
> CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk 0 MemClk 0
> FPS 89.7 Score 2259 MaxFPS 203.4
> 
> CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +25 MemClk +110
> FPS 90.8 Score 2287 MaxFPS 199.4
> 
> CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +23 MemClk +156
> FPS 90.6 Score 2283 MaxFPS 208.5
> 
> CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +23 MemClk +106
> FPS 91.2 Score 2296 MaxFPS 211
> 
> CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +16 MemClk +106
> FPS 91.5 Score 2306 MaxFPS 207.5
> 
> CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +16 MemClk +50
> FPS 90 Score 2267 MaxFPS 206.9
> 
> CrV 0 Pwr/TempL MAX CrClk +16 MemClk +175
> FPS 90.7 Score 2284 MaxFPS 207.3
> 
> Aorus Gaming mode
> FPS 88.7 Score 2235 MaxFPS 199.1
> Aorus OC mode
> CRASH


Hi and welcome to the club









Unfortunatly it seems you have met the same fate i did and got a bad card. As you said, YES, the card should run any game out there 100% stable at any clock-settings the manufacturer advertises with. This also means the card has to run any game and any benchmark in "OC"-mode 100% stable, including "The Witcher 3". Of course, a bad/faulty psu could cause problems, but i'll just asume yours is not broken, and an EVGA G3 750W psu is more than adequate to power your system.

For your information, the "OC"-mode in the AORUS-Software equals following settings in MSI Afterburner:

CoreVoltage: +0
PowerTarget: 100%
TempLimit: 84°
CoreClock: +25
MemClock: +108

Well, the Aorus Software is a piece of crap, but if the card can't handle these settings even set through MSI AB, than it is faulty and should be RMA'ed. I had to do the same with my first card. The replacement i got however was working flawlessly and is now doing 2.1 GHz under water.









It seems that quite a large number of Xtreme-Editions of the Aorus TI suffer from such shortcommings, regular Aorus TIs seem to have much less defects and even seem to OC somewhat better...


----------



## Cyro999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FL00D*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Got the non-extreme version yesterday, popped it into place than ran a 3DMark stress test (ultra) for about an hour. It seems to be stable at Gigabyte's OC clock speed (1,708MHz) but of course it's still early days as I've not played any games yet...
> 
> Max boost clock speed is 1,950MHz but it drops to around 1,750MHz. At that speed the GPU is ~73c and AB is constantly indicating power limit. What's interesting is that I need to set a very high power limit to be able to sustain higher clock speeds. At 140-150% GPU clock speed is around 1,950MHz without dropping to lower clock speeds but temp goes all the way up to 79-80c.
> 
> Not sure if using such a high power limit for 24/7 is a good idea?


That's fine & the card is designed for that and more, that's why the limit is 150% (100% is the stock reference 1080ti power limit, 250w, and even the factory OC can need a lot more to breathe)

More power = hotter temps but 79-80c is much higher than my experiences, you might want to see how much cooler it is with your case side panel off. It'll be a huge difference if your case airflow is inadequate but a relatively small one if it's good


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hi and welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunatly it seems you have met the same fate i did and got a bad card. As you said, YES, the card should run any game out there 100% stable at any clock-settings the manufacturer advertises with. This also means the card has to run any game and any benchmark in "OC"-mode 100% stable, including "The Witcher 3". Of course, a bad/faulty psu could cause problems, but i'll just asume yours is not broken, and an EVGA G3 750W psu is more than adequate to power your system.
> 
> For your information, the "OC"-mode in the AORUS-Software equals following settings in MSI Afterburner:
> 
> CoreVoltage: +0
> PowerTarget: 100%
> TempLimit: 84°
> CoreClock: +25
> MemClock: +108
> 
> Well, the Aorus Software is a piece of crap, but if the card can't handle these settings even set through MSI AB, than it is faulty and should be RMA'ed. I had to do the same with my first card. The replacement i got however was working flawlessly and is now doing 2.1 GHz under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems that quite a large number of Xtreme-Editions of the Aorus TI suffer from such shortcommings, regular Aorus TIs seem to have much less defects and even seem to OC somewhat better...


Looks like the mixup theory is becoming more and more true. The good binned chips earmarked for the extremes ended up in the regulars and vice versa.
That or gigabyte's binning process is flawed and is indicating that terrible chips have "good" characterstics for overclocking.

I am actually rather curious how they "bin" these chips because it certainly couldn't have been done prior to PCB assembly (the chips are BGA). This means it has to be fully assembled, the card is overclocked? then the production line slaps either an Extreme or regular cooler on.

I know EVGA uses the same expensive binning equipment that Intel does with PCB-less testing probes. The ones that make the cut go on to be Classified PCBs which are individually hand-tested by Kingpin for the KingPin edition. Palit (aka Galax) also do the same as EVGA.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Hi and welcome to the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Unfortunatly it seems you have met the same fate i did and got a bad card. As you said, YES, the card should run any game out there 100% stable at any clock-settings the manufacturer advertises with. This also means the card has to run any game and any benchmark in "OC"-mode 100% stable, including "The Witcher 3". Of course, a bad/faulty psu could cause problems, but i'll just asume yours is not broken, and an EVGA G3 750W psu is more than adequate to power your system.
> 
> For your information, the "OC"-mode in the AORUS-Software equals following settings in MSI Afterburner:
> 
> CoreVoltage: +0
> PowerTarget: 100%
> TempLimit: 84°
> CoreClock: +25
> MemClock: +108
> 
> Well, the Aorus Software is a piece of crap, but if the card can't handle these settings even set through MSI AB, than it is faulty and should be RMA'ed. I had to do the same with my first card. The replacement i got however was working flawlessly and is now doing 2.1 GHz under water.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seems that quite a large number of Xtreme-Editions of the Aorus TI suffer from such shortcommings, regular Aorus TIs seem to have much less defects and even seem to OC somewhat better...


not really what I wanted to hear but oh well. I submitted an RMA to Gigabyte awaiting their reply. Hopefully, it won't take too long being that they're only 2 hours north of me.

You mentioned the OC mode settings on Afterburner. I was getting the following

CoreVoltage: +71
PowerTarget: 120%
TempLimit: 84°
CoreClock: +25
MemClock: +108


----------



## Cyro999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Looks like the mixup theory is becoming more and more true. The good binned chips earmarked for the extremes ended up in the regulars and vice versa.
> That or gigabyte's binning process is flawed and is indicating that terrible chips have "good" characterstics for overclocking.
> 
> I am actually rather curious how they "bin" these chips because it certainly couldn't have been done prior to PCB assembly (the chips are BGA). This means it has to be fully assembled, the card is overclocked? then the production line slaps either an Extreme or regular cooler on.
> 
> I know EVGA uses the same expensive binning equipment that Intel does with PCB-less testing probes. The ones that make the cut go on to be Classified PCBs which are individually hand-tested by Kingpin for the KingPin edition. Palit (aka Galax) also do the same as EVGA.


My Xtreme edition is also crashing on those settings


----------



## UdoG

Actually I use the following Afterburner Settings:

CoreVoltage: +100
PowerTarget: Full
TempLimit: Full (it doesn't matter - card us under water)
CoreClock: +25
MemClock: +225

I get 2063 MHz and do not run into any limit (power, voltage, ...).

Room Temp 21.5 C
Water Temp 26-28 C
GPU Temp 38-39 C


----------



## FL00D

Thanks Cyro999! I have a Corsair 780T so airflow is not a problem. I set a custom fan profile, the one that's suggested on page 19, and temps are much better now: 60-62c (room temp: 23-24c).


----------



## gpvecchi

Help, plz!
I actually have Xtreme bios at standard values, but I have stability issues, I have a lot of crashes due to DirectX error....
Any hint?


----------



## Emmanuel

Sounds like you have a bad card. Remove all overclocking applications, reinstall your drivers (clean install) and see if the issue persists. If it does, you have a bad a card.


----------



## gpvecchi

Yup, I already tried the software way (clean driver install and no OC tools); it seems that normal bios doesn't have issues, so I think that my batch can't handle the Xtreme clock...

Edit: so strange, it keeps fine the OC profile of the normal version, but it doesn't keep the stock profile of Xtreme; something like 20 Mhz...


----------



## Cyro999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> Sounds like you have a bad card. Remove all overclocking applications, reinstall your drivers (clean install) and see if the issue persists. If it does, you have a bad a card.


Warranty applies for crashing @ stock on gaming/oc mode right? What's the best way to get replacement?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyro999*
> 
> Warranty applies for crashing @ stock on gaming/oc mode right? What's the best way to get replacement?


Depends on where you're from, most countries have warranty laws though, so vendors have to take back faulty products in a certain timeframe, it's 1-2 years often. The vendor then has to repair (unlikely) or replace the faulty product. Directt customer support from the manufacturer is an option sometimes, e.g. EVGA are excellent at this, even if you bought your evga-product not from thier own store. I don't know how Gigabyte handles RMA's, never dealt with them directly as here in germany, the retailer was responsible for exchanging my faulty card.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Depends on where you're from, most countries have warranty laws though, so vendors have to take back faulty products in a certain timeframe, it's 1-2 years often. The vendor then has to repair (unlikely) or replace the faulty product. Directt customer support from the manufacturer is an option sometimes, e.g. EVGA are excellent at this, even if you bought your evga-product not from thier own store. I don't know how Gigabyte handles RMA's, never dealt with them directly as here in germany, the retailer was responsible for exchanging my faulty card.


I'm in the US and gigabyte chose to repair my motherboard. I paid shipping one way. They shipped back free. The motherboard was boot looping and they fixed it rather than replace (same serial) all you have to do is register on their site. Now I just get protection plans from Micro Center. No hassle, just bring it in, they diagnose and give you store credit for the original value. Same day service.


----------



## smithsrt8

As far as
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Depends on where you're from, most countries have warranty laws though, so vendors have to take back faulty products in a certain timeframe, it's 1-2 years often. The vendor then has to repair (unlikely) or replace the faulty product. Directt customer support from the manufacturer is an option sometimes, e.g. EVGA are excellent at this, even if you bought your evga-product not from thier own store. I don't know how Gigabyte handles RMA's, never dealt with them directly as here in germany, the retailer was responsible for exchanging my faulty card.


With any company that I have dealt with in the past (EVGA,ASUS,MSI,Gigabyte) they all have different ways they handle RMA's/Warranty claims...EVGA is by far and away the best...they are quick...easy...and in most cases will send you out another mobo/card/whatever in and simply place a small charge on your credit card (unless you bought it directly from them) and a prepaid label to send yours back....my current RMA is with Gigabyte and I had a bit of help from Avadirect (who I bought the card from originally) and they placed some pressure on Gigabyte and they bumped me to an Advanced Replacement RMA and shipped out another card via UPS ground...although they charged my card $720 until they get theirs back but it was not a bad experience overall...I can guarantee you though from the horror stories I have read about sometimes Gigabyte can literally take months to approve an RMA...you have to consistently push them...EVGA is a no BS company and easy...MSI took by far the longest and their "help" desk was not very helpful....Asus has not been horrible but nowhere near as good as EVGA...


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> What are about the backplate? Maybe you can use still the original one...
> 
> Below you will find the instruction for the 1080 - unfortunately I found no download for the 1080TI.
> 
> http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/632.html


On Saturday I ordered the Barrow water block and I requested the instruction for the 1080TI, which I got this morning:

http://www.barrow.com.cn/index.php/article/703.html

I found the following difference regarding the thermal pads:

EK:



Barrrow:



Does it makes sense to add thermal pads here?



FYI - you can use the original back plate - maybe it's better to you the original one instead of the EK back plate (more pads).


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> On Saturday I ordered the Barrow water block and I requested the instruction for the 1080TI, which I got this morning:
> 
> http://www.barrow.com.cn/index.php/article/703.html
> 
> I found the following difference regarding the thermal pads:
> 
> EK:
> 
> 
> 
> Barrrow:
> 
> 
> 
> Does it makes sense to add thermal pads here?
> 
> 
> 
> FYI - you can use the original back plate - maybe it's better to you the original one instead of the EK back plate (more pads).


LOL,

that is, i don't even know what to say. So Barrows goes the extra length to extend their nickel plated copper block over the RAM VRMs, but then they cheap out with pads for the RAM chokes, RAM control chips and ALL of the MOSfets on the card? The way they apply pads, they only cover the GPU chokes and the GPU controller chips, but not the RAM chokes, not the RAM controller chips and NOT A SINGLE MOSfet on the entire card. *Chuckles in disbelief*

You already added in the red squares - those squares will cover RAM chokes and first half of the CPU MOSfets. I added (in blue) the pads needed to cover the rest of the GPU MOSfets and the RAM MOSfets, along with a few tiny spaces they "forgot" too:



In Any case, YES i would 100% add those missing pads. The only thing you'd have to find out by trial and error is the needed thickness of the pads. I'd start with 1mm, then apply the block, press it a bit, take itoff again and see if the components left a clearly visible imprint. If not, go to 1.5 or 2mm for each position that doesn't show a good imprint.

_About the backplate:_
It even seems you HAVE to use the original backplate, because as far as i can make it out in the pictures from Barrows, their block seems to lack ALL of the screw holes needed to fix the EK backplate. The EK Backplate is fixed by screws going through the backplate, through the PCB and then into the EK block. The original backplate needs to be attached BEFORe you attach the block, because it uses screws going through the PCB and into the Backplate. So the mounting direction of screws is completly opposite for AORUS or EK backplate.

EDIT:
A thing that puzzles me though: the distance from the plateau for the first row of MOSfets (your large red rectangle) over to the RAM appears MUCH too large. It could be that this is only a "symbol picture" and not even showing the block for the AORUS 1080TI ....


----------



## V5-aps

I believe that the Barrow block shown is this one:

http://www.barrowint.com/index.php/article/649.html
Looks like the same waterblock as their 1080 Xtreme.
I hope it fits and performs well, because I'd like to keep the original backplate.


----------



## Emmanuel

I have a question regarding voltage on this card.
Is the reported voltage the actual voltage fed to the card (disregarding vdroop) or is the core voltage slider some kind of offset based on the current bin? The reason why I'm asking this is because I'm trying to understand the following behavior:

I set my 1.043v and all higher bins to 2113MHz, so it's basically a flat line that keeps the frequency at 2113MHz at any voltage equal or higher to 1.043v. If I set the core voltage to + 0, the card under load will remain at 1.043v but the frequency will fluctuate. However if I set the voltage to +100, the reported voltage will remain 1.043v but the card will maintain 2113MHz, no more fluctuation. Why is that? What exactly does voltage control control?

I think I'm settling for 2113MHz at 1.043v considering I need 1.093v to run 2126MHz, but I'm wondering if I'm not being deceived by the voltage reported by software. Am I truly feeding the card only 1.043v (regardless of vdroop) when I'm maintaining 2113MHz, or is more voltage being fed behind the scene?


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> I have a question regarding voltage on this card.
> Is the reported voltage the actual voltage fed to the card (disregarding vdroop) or is the core voltage slider some kind of offset based on the current bin? The reason why I'm asking this is because I'm trying to understand the following behavior:
> 
> I set my 1.043v and all higher bins to 2113MHz, so it's basically a flat line that keeps the frequency at 2113MHz at any voltage equal or higher to 1.043v. If I set the core voltage to + 0, the card under load will remain at 1.043v but the frequency will fluctuate. However if I set the voltage to +100, the reported voltage will remain 1.043v but the card will maintain 2113MHz, no more fluctuation. Why is that? What exactly does voltage control control?
> 
> I think I'm settling for 2113MHz at 1.043v considering I need 1.093v to run 2126MHz, but I'm wondering if I'm not being deceived by the voltage reported by software. Am I truly feeding the card only 1.043v (regardless of vdroop) when I'm maintaining 2113MHz, or is more voltage being fed behind the scene?


just bench it and whatever gives you the highest score is best for you. aparently pascal has in chip monitoring and adjusting. so if you give it super low volts itll still run at whatever frequency you set but it will give lower scores. its weird and only testing can give you idea how ur specific card holds up


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> I have a question regarding voltage on this card.
> Is the reported voltage the actual voltage fed to the card (disregarding vdroop) or is the core voltage slider some kind of offset based on the current bin? The reason why I'm asking this is because I'm trying to understand the following behavior:
> 
> I set my 1.043v and all higher bins to 2113MHz, so it's basically a flat line that keeps the frequency at 2113MHz at any voltage equal or higher to 1.043v. If I set the core voltage to + 0, the card under load will remain at 1.043v but the frequency will fluctuate. However if I set the voltage to +100, the reported voltage will remain 1.043v but the card will maintain 2113MHz, no more fluctuation. Why is that? What exactly does voltage control control?
> 
> I think I'm settling for 2113MHz at 1.043v considering I need 1.093v to run 2126MHz, but I'm wondering if I'm not being deceived by the voltage reported by software. Am I truly feeding the card only 1.043v (regardless of vdroop) when I'm maintaining 2113MHz, or is more voltage being fed behind the scene?


The voltage you see in monitoring software is the VID the GPU is requesting (unlike AMD which feeds you the raw integrated potentiometer readings). From BuildZoid's testing, there is significant Vdroop on certain cards which is uncontrollable on our side, he bypasses that by directly feeding the GPu core voltage via a hardware VID-less interface.
This is still somewhat up for debate:
1. The VRMs supply greater than required power and Vdroop happens to the amount the VID requests
2. The VID directly draws bespoke voltage and Vdroop happens from that

I will be able to give more definitive answers once I hook up my multimeter to the backside of this Aorus. I suspect the VID does not account for VDroop so you get less voltage than you actually request. Try setting 1.093V, run a test, then set 1.093V and set the 1.13V bin to be 13mhz higher. You will notice the 1.093V bin with the 1.13V backup scores a little bit higher than the 1.093V bin with no 1.13V backup (because it Vdroops down to the 1.081V bin).


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emmanuel*
> 
> I have a question regarding voltage on this card.
> Is the reported voltage the actual voltage fed to the card (disregarding vdroop) or is the core voltage slider some kind of offset based on the current bin? The reason why I'm asking this is because I'm trying to understand the following behavior:
> 
> I set my 1.043v and all higher bins to 2113MHz, so it's basically a flat line that keeps the frequency at 2113MHz at any voltage equal or higher to 1.043v. If I set the core voltage to + 0, the card under load will remain at 1.043v but the frequency will fluctuate. However if I set the voltage to +100, the reported voltage will remain 1.043v but the card will maintain 2113MHz, no more fluctuation. Why is that? What exactly does voltage control control?
> 
> I think I'm settling for 2113MHz at 1.043v considering I need 1.093v to run 2126MHz, but I'm wondering if I'm not being deceived by the voltage reported by software. Am I truly feeding the card only 1.043v (regardless of vdroop) when I'm maintaining 2113MHz, or is more voltage being fed behind the scene?


As far as i have understood it (and this seems to corelate with my experiences), the voltage bin you chose in the curve is the basic voltage the GPU will be fed, and this value will also be shown in any monitoring tools. The core voltage slider sets an allowed offset, meaning that this voltage is not always drawn, but the CPU CAN draw up to x mvolts above what is set in the curve if it needs to sustain a certain clockspeed stable. However it will not be shown in any monitoring tool if it makes use of this extra threshold.

So with the voltage slider set to "0", it might very well occure that the GPU has to lower the clocks in certain situations, because the set volts in the curve are not enough. If you set the slider to "100", the GPU can draw more mvolts than what is set in the curve and thus probably keep it's clockspeed. This additional mvolts will however not be shown in monitoring. The only hint you might get is that with the voltage slider at "0", the GPU might drop clocks and report a voltage target hit, while with the slider at "100", it will not hit the voltage target and it will not downclock.

I'm noit sure where, but i recall having read that 100% on the slider actualy means 100mVolts more allowed.


----------



## TheoDouk

I'm on the bus so I can't give any screenshots or anything. but after a day or 2 of experimenting I've managed to get a stable 2050 with 100% fan and 6000 mem. I repasted my card and used some arctic silver I had spare. Works fine I load at 64°. I guess I got a good card I'm sure if I could run it cooler I would get 2063 but that seems impossible on air for me.

Ps. I used the new Unigen benchmark and was getting a score of 9890 on 4k optimized. I went onto Nvidia control panel out of curiosity and whacked down the slider to performance. Boy o boy it changed my score to 10189. 300 increase I mean *** no wonder you see people posting some mad benchmark scores!

Pss
The scariest thing happened my drivers crashed once while testing and I swear to god I've never heard fans go so loud. Maybe my 1080 hof edition on 100%. But god these fans defo go faster than the 100 they let you control. I'm telling you it was as loud as a frikin jet.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoDouk*
> 
> I'm on the bus so I can't give any screenshots or anything. but after a day or 2 of experimenting I've managed to get a stable 2050 with 100% fan and 6000 mem. I repasted my card and used some arctic silver I had spare. Works fine I load at 64°. I guess I got a good card I'm sure if I could run it cooler I would get 2063 but that seems impossible on air for me.
> 
> Ps. I used the new Unigen benchmark and was getting a score of 9890 on 4k optimized. I went onto Nvidia control panel out of curiosity and whacked down the slider to performance. Boy o boy it changed my score to 10189. 300 increase I mean *** no wonder you see people posting some mad benchmark scores!
> 
> Pss
> The scariest thing happened my drivers crashed once while testing and I swear to god I've never heard fans go so loud. Maybe my 1080 hof edition on 100%. But god these fans defo go faster than the 100 they let you control. I'm telling you it was as loud as a frikin jet.


Well,

of course you can go to the NVIDIA controll panel and shift sliders arround, and yes this will give you higher numbers in benchmarks, but it totaly defies the reason to use a benchmark in the first place. Every setting and slider in the controll panel is a compromise between image quality and performance. So reducing the actual work the card has to do to get bigger numbers makes these numbers meaningless. It's like a bicycle race where one driver has an e-bike: he needs to work less and will go faster than the other bikers.... This has nothing to do with the original goal of benchmarks, to compare the performance of different cards. You can't compare anything if the prerequisites ain't equal.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Heya,

i've gone back to fiddling around with clocks, mVolts, benchmarking and statistics because some things these cards do didn't let me rest. As @Dasboogieman already figured out, finding the "optimal" overclock for a 1080TI is not just a matter of finding the lowest and the highest voltage at which a certain clock runs stable and just pick the middle. Within this corridor of stable operation, the performance of a 1080TI changes, seemingly pushing more frames the higher the base voltage.

Out of curiosity and partially boredom







i made a vertical slice of my cards performance @2038 MHz. I don't know the exact use of this yet, but it's a start and i might do the same for higher clockrates later. My hope is that with this list, a pattern might become visible of how to find the "sweet spot" between highest and lowest voltage for a given clockspeed.

*How did i proceed:*

For every voltage in the following table below, i reset the voltage curve to the state it is when choosing the "silent" settings, so in essence with the card underclocked, but i leave the RAM at standard clocks.

Set the following in MSI AB: +0 core voltage, 100% power limit, 84° templimit, -127 MHz core clock and 0 MHz ram clock, click "APPLY".
Ctrl+F to open the voltage curve, pick the point above the voltage you want to test, and push it up to 2037MHz.
Hit "APPLY" in the MSI AB main window: all points to the right will jump to 2037MHz to form a straight line.
Now set the core voltage, power limit and temp limit sliders full to the right as well.
Hit "APPLY" in the MSI AB main window again.
Bench with Unigine Heaven.
Actually i benched every setting 3x and averaged the score. I know, for statistical reason 10x would have been more accurate, but 3x should cut the worst runaways. It all took long enough with only 3 benches per voltage level. Here are the results:

*Usable & stable voltages for 2037 MHz on my card:*

_0.981 volts:_
crash!* - no score

_0.993 volts:_
Alert!** - 4800 Points

_1.000 volts:_
stable - 4964 Points

_1.012 volts:_
stable - 4993 Points

_1.025 volts:_
stable - 4997 Points

_1.031 volts:_
stable - 5000 Points

_1.043 volts:_
stable - 5004 Points

_1.050 volts:_
stable - 5004 Points

_1.062 volts:_
stable - 5019 Points

_1.075 volts:_
stable - 5018 Points

_1.081 volts:_
Alert!** - 4980 Points

The most interesting things happen at both ends of the corridor. 0.981 volts was plain to little, the benchmark *crashed everytime a few seconds in. The voltages marked with **Alert! both ran through, but showed voltage, power and temperature alert all the time and both clocked down to 2025MHz. So they are definatly both on the brink and can in no way be considered stable. I am not quite sure why the 1.081 volt settings also exibited this behaviour though - it's definatly not too little volts and the card was miles away from overheating. Maybe the GP102 just has some internal table that qualifies this voltage as just too much for "only" 2037MHz boost. But thats just me theorycrafting, i don't have any electrical explanation for this ....









The eight usable voltage-levels from 1.000 to 1.075 actually do show a slight increase in performance for the higher voltages, but from highest to lowest (1.000 - 1.075 volts) the overall increase is a mere 1 percent. So while it might give you a few more points in benchmarks, it is absolutly pointless for FPS in any game. However, since the 1.000 volts setting is somewhat further away from the other stable benches, which might indicate beginning instability, i would choose the 1.012 volt bin as the "sweet spot" for a 2037MHz clockrate of my GPU. I'll use that as a basis for going further up in MHz and voltages now.

P.S.: Since 1.012 volts seems to be well into the stable zone of 2037MHz, i will also try and see if it is able to run 2050MHz, or if this requires 1.025 volts already.

P.P.S.: Haha, as i thought 1.012 volts is not enough for 2050MHz, it triggers all target events and clocks down to 2037MHz. This is convenient however, so i can safe the extra work of checking a voltage bin again forthe next higher clockrate. If i procede with my way, i can simply start with the next voltage bin when switching to a higher clockrate!

*Next clock bin - 2050MHz:*

Oh boy, 2059MHz is kinda tricky. I don't know why, but the GPU REALY doesn't like 2050MHz. The first 5 voltage bins ALL produce the all-targets-hit (voltage, power & temp) warning and the scores with them is "all over the place", meaning that any of these voltages do not produce consistent, reliable scores. I wrote down the average of 3 benches, but had i done 3 more, i would have gotten totaly different scores again. Only from 1.075 volts onwards, scores start to reflect clocks in a some coherent way again. What is different, though, compared to the alerts @ 2036MHz, is that the alerts here @ 2050MHz do not make the card drop to lower MHz, it stays @ 2050MHz throughout the complete benchmark run.

_1.025 volts:_
alert! - 5011 Points

_1.031 volts:_
alert! - 4925 Points

_1.043 volts:_
alert! - 4928 Points

_1.050 volts:_
alert! - 5015 Points

_1.062 volts:_
alert! - 5018 Points

_1.075 volts:_
stable - 5020 Points

_1.081 volts:_
stable - 5025 Points

_1.093 volts:_
stable - 4955 Points

As said above, scores from 1.025 - 1.062 volts are not to be taken serious. Even while the card never dropped the MHz, the results varied anywhere between 4850 and 5050 - totaly random. Scores for 1.075 - 1.093 where very consistent again over all benches, with 1.093 volts always having lower points due to the fact that this is the artificial upper limit the GPU is allowed to draw. There is no way past this without a physical shuntmod (which i am not willing to try on my card







) Interesting about this is, that while the card obviously ran into a voltage limitation, there was no voltage limit hit warning. WHY this bin repeatedly produced lower scores? I haveno answer to this yet.

*Next clock bin - 2062MHz:*

Well, who would have thought? The 2062MHz bin behaves quite like the 2050MHz bin, except! At 2062MHz, the last voltage bin @1.093 volts is not flailing like @ 2050MHz, but indeed working reliably and giving the highest score overall yet:

_1.025 volts:_
alert! - 5005 Points

_1.031 volts:_
alert! - 5012 Points

_1.043 volts:_
alert! - 4923 Points

_1.050 volts:_
alert! - 4933 Points

_1.062 volts:_
alert! - 4931 Points

_1.075 volts:_
stable - 4941 Points

_1.081 volts:_
stable - 5025 Points

_1.093 volts:_
stable - 5033 Points

Please don't take the bins 1.025 - 1.062 serious. Again these voltages delivered highly fluctuating results without any pattern or coherence. The last 3 (stable) bins did reproduce almost the same scores in every run again.

Here we go again:
*Next clock bin - 2075MHz:*

I ditched the first 3 voltage bins (1.025 - 1.043 votls) since they very likely are not going to be usefull anymore from here on up. 2075MHz was overall the worst clock bin so far, as you can see ALL voltage bins are triggering the alert here (power, voltage and temp), even though none of the limts is actualy hit:

_1.050 volts:_
alert! - 5034 Points

_1.062 volts:_
alert! - 5036 Points

_1.075 volts:_
alert! - 5046 Points

_1.081 volts:_
alert! - 5047 Points

_1.093 volts:_
alert! - 5052 Points

It is noteworthy though that, even though all voltage had the warning, none pf the settings dropped the MHz, they all held 2075MHz throughout all benches.

*Next clock bin - 2088MHz:*

2088MHz puzzled me a bit again, as it performed better on the last 3 voltage bins, which also didn't trigger the warnings anymore:

_1.050 volts:_
alert! - 5039 Points

_1.062 volts:_
alert! - 5043 Points

_1.075 volts:_
stable - 5045 Points

_1.081 volts:_
stable - 5054 Points

_1.093 volts:_
stable - 5057 Points

Still, each step to a higher voltage bin produces a measurable, but very small increase in performance.

*Next clock bin - 2100MHz:*

Nothing exciting here, minimal improovements over the last MHz bin (for the stable voltages!):

_1.050 volts:_
alert! - 5036 Points

_1.062 volts:_
alert! - 5042 Points

_1.075 volts:_
stable - 5059 Points

_1.081 volts:_
stable - 5058 Points

_1.093 volts:_
stable - 5060 Points

The small performance drop from 1.075 - 1.081 volts is probably a rounding or measurement error

*Next clock bin - 2113MHz:*

Biggest change here - 1.075v triggers the alert now:

_1.050 volts:_
alert! - 5029 Points

_1.062 volts:_
alert! - 5048 Points

_1.075 volts:_
alert! - 5053 Points

_1.081 volts:_
stable - 5059 Points

_1.093 volts:_
stable - 5066 Points

*Next clock bin - 2126MHz:*

I dropped 1.050v here, because it didn't do anything useful in the last bins. Even 1.062v has notably dropped in performance at 2126 MHz.
Oddly, 1.075v doesn't trigger the alert again.

_1.062 volts:_
alert! - 4980 Points

_1.075 volts:_
stable - 5078 Points

_1.081 volts:_
stable - 5066 Points

_1.093 volts:_
stable - 5075 Points

The last 3 voltages @ 2126MHz (1.075 - 1.093 volts) where each benched 6 times for this run, because the performance they delivered on the first 3 runs was odd. But running them 6x only solidified the result: 1.075v delivered the best performance, followed by 1.093v and 1.081v beeing last.

Here we go again:
*Next clock bin - 2138MHz:*

_1.062 volts:_
Crashed after ~20 seconds

_1.075 volts:_
Crashed in the 3 benchmark, first two averaged 4965 Points

_1.081 volts:_
stable - 4972 Points

_1.093 volts:_
stable - 5056 Points

Now we can see that we are loosing ground fast. 1.062volts crashed roughly 20 seconds into the benchmark, every time. 1.075 volts seemed stable in the first 2 runs, but then crashed in the benchmark run. 1.081v didn't crash, but produced a notable low score. Only 1.093v produced a half-decent Score here. Noteable is that the last 2 voltage bins did not trigger the warnings.

*Last clock bin - 2151MHz:*

_1.062 volts:_
Crashed after 3 seconds.

_1.075 volts:_
Crashed after 10 seconds.

_1.081 volts:_
Crashed after ~1 minute.

_1.093 volts:_
Crashed in the 2nd run, first scored 5050 points.

_"This is the end, beautiful friend
This is the end, my only friend, the end
Of our elaborate plans, the end...."_

Well, this is it! Obviously my card isn't able to do any more without physical modifications to allow any more volts. Now it is time to extract the important parts from all this tables - the best usable voltage for all given clockspeed and to create a voltage curve from it. Lets write it all up:

*2151MHz:*
Not usable, no stable operation possible

*2138MHz:*
1.093v gave the best performance with: 5056 Points.

*2126MHz:*
1.075v - 1.093v where stable. While 1.075v had the highest score, this would limit us going further down. If the difference was big, i'd still go with 1.075v here, but they are sooo close that i'll take *1.093v*. And since 1.093v here gave measurably better performance than at 2138MHz, this will be the Highest clock for my custom curve with 5075 Points!

*2113MHz:*
1.093v produce the best performance at these clocks, but since it is "only" 5066 points, the 2113MHz bin will not be connected to any voltage. By doing this, the card will automatically drop down to this MHz bin, but keep the 1.093v if it for some reason cannot hold the 2126MHz bin.

*2100MHz:*
Again 1.093v give the best performance, averaging at 5060 points. Will not get a voltage connected, so will be another fallback for 2126 if even 2113 can't be held.

*2088MHz:*
Still 1.093v pushing the most frames at this level. So again, this too will be a fallback for 2126Mhz and not be connected to the lower voltages.

*2075MHz:*
Same game. 1.093v gives best performance, so not going to link this MHz bin to 1.081volts.

*2062MHz:*
More of the same same. 1.093 still performing best, so not going to attach this to a lower voltage.

*2050MHz:*
Woohoo, we stopped the freefall! Final a MHz bin where 1.081v produce better performance than 1.093v. So this is going to be placed at *1.081v!*

*2038MHz:*
The first MHz bin i tested, butthe last in this list. It performs best on *1.062v*. But since *1.075v* is almost identical in performance, i'll leave 2038MHz for *BOTH*, just like the original curve!



So, it might not be the prettiest curve, but now i am going to test it with some other benches ... and then i'll give memory OC another shot!


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> LOL,
> 
> that is, i don't even know what to say. So Barrows goes the extra length to extend their nickel plated copper block over the RAM VRMs, but then they cheap out with pads for the RAM chokes, RAM control chips and ALL of the MOSfets on the card? The way they apply pads, they only cover the GPU chokes and the GPU controller chips, but not the RAM chokes, not the RAM controller chips and NOT A SINGLE MOSfet on the entire card. *Chuckles in disbelief*
> 
> You already added in the red squares - those squares will cover RAM chokes and first half of the CPU MOSfets. I added (in blue) the pads needed to cover the rest of the GPU MOSfets and the RAM MOSfets, along with a few tiny spaces they "forgot" too:
> 
> 
> 
> In Any case, YES i would 100% add those missing pads. The only thing you'd have to find out by trial and error is the needed thickness of the pads. I'd start with 1mm, then apply the block, press it a bit, take itoff again and see if the components left a clearly visible imprint. If not, go to 1.5 or 2mm for each position that doesn't show a good imprint.
> 
> _About the backplate:_
> It even seems you HAVE to use the original backplate, because as far as i can make it out in the pictures from Barrows, their block seems to lack ALL of the screw holes needed to fix the EK backplate. The EK Backplate is fixed by screws going through the backplate, through the PCB and then into the EK block. The original backplate needs to be attached BEFORe you attach the block, because it uses screws going through the PCB and into the Backplate. So the mounting direction of screws is completly opposite for AORUS or EK backplate.
> 
> EDIT:
> A thing that puzzles me though: the distance from the plateau for the first row of MOSfets (your large red rectangle) over to the RAM appears MUCH too large. It could be that this is only a "symbol picture" and not even showing the block for the AORUS 1080TI ....


Any recommendation regarding the thermal pads?

I found the EKWB pads has a thermal conductivity of 3.5 W/mK - sounds like a good compromise between price and performance.

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-g-2-0mm-120x24mm

It seems that "bigger is not better" - if I use a bigger thermal pad and the pressure is higher, then the hermal conductivity seems to be lower (check graphic in the link above). Is this correct?
But the original Gigabyte thermal pads are really big...


----------



## jexux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Heya,
> 
> i've gone back to fiddling around with clocks, mVolts, benchmarking and statistics because some things these cards do didn't let me rest. As @Dasboogieman already figured out, finding the "optimal" overclock for a 1080TI is not just a matter of finding the lowest and the highest voltage at which a certain clock runs stable and just pick the middle. Within this corridor of stable operation, the performance of a 1080TI changes, seemingly pushing more frames the higher the base voltage.
> 
> Out of curiosity and partially boredom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i made a vertical slice of my cards performance @2038 MHz. I don't know the exact use of this yet, but it's a start and i might do the same for higher clockrates later. My hope is that with this list, a pattern might become visible of how to find the "sweet spot" between highest and lowest voltage for a given clockspeed.
> 
> *How did i proceed:*
> 
> For every voltage in the following table below, i reset the voltage curve to the state it is when choosing the "silent" settings, so in essence with the card underclocked.
> 
> Set the following in MSI AB: +0 core voltage, 100% power limit, 84° templimit, -127 MHz core clock and -112 MHz ram clock, click "APPLY".
> Ctrl+F to open the voltage curve, pick the point above the voltage you want to test, and push it up to 2037MHz.
> Hit "APPLY" in the MSI AB main window: all points to the right will jump to 2037MHz to form a straight line.
> Now set the core voltage, power limit and temp limit sliders full to the right as well.
> Hit "APPLY" in the MSI AB main window again.
> Bench with Unigine Heaven.
> Actually i benched every setting 3x and averaged the score. I know, for statistical reason 10x would have been more accurate, but 3x should cut the worst runaways. It all took long enough with only 3 benches per voltage level. Here are the results:
> 
> *Usable & stable voltages for 2037 MHz on my card:*
> 
> _0.981 volts:_
> crash!* - no score
> 
> _0.993 volts:_
> Alert!** - 4800 Points
> 
> _1.000 volts:_
> stable - 4964 Points
> 
> _1.012 volts:_
> stable - 4993 Points
> 
> _1.025 volts:_
> stable - 4997 Points
> 
> _1.031 volts:_
> stable - 5000 Points
> 
> _1.043 volts:_
> stable - 5004 Points
> 
> _1.050 volts:_
> stable - 5004 Points
> 
> _1.062 volts:_
> stable - 5019 Points
> 
> _1.075 volts:_
> stable - 5018 Points
> 
> _1.081 volts:_
> Alert!** - 4980 Points
> 
> The most interesting things happen at both ends of the corridor. 0.981 volts was plain to little, the benchmark *crashed everytime a few seconds in. The voltages marked with **Alert! both ran through, but showed voltage, power and temperature alert all the time and both clocked down to 2025MHz. So they are definatly both on the brink and can in no way be considered stable. I am not quite sure why the 1.081 volt settings also exibited this behaviour though - it's definatly not too little volts and the card was miles away from overheating. Maybe the GP102 just has some internal table that qualifies this voltage as just too much for "only" 2037MHz boost. But thats just me theorycrafting, i don't have any electrical explanation for this ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The eight usable voltage-levels from 1.000 to 1.075 actually do show a slight increase in performance for the higher voltages, but from highest to lowest (1.000 - 1.075 volts) the overall increase is a mere 1 percent. So while it might give you a few more points in benchmarks, it is absolutly pointless for FPS in any game. However, since the 1.000 volts setting is somewhat further away from the other stable benches, which might indicate beginning instability, i would choose the 1.012 volt bin as the "sweet spot" for a 2037MHz clockrate of my GPU. I'll use that as a basis for going further up in MHz and voltages now.
> 
> P.S.: Since 1.012 volts seems to be well into the stable zone of 2037MHz, i will also try and see if it is able to run 2050MHz, or if this requires 1.025 volts already.
> 
> P.P.S.: Haha, as i thought 1.012 volts is not enough for 2050MHz, it triggers all target events and clocks down to 2037MHz. This is convenient however, so i can safe the extra work of checking a voltage bin again forthe next higher clockrate. If i procede with my way, i can simply start with the next voltage bin when switching to a higher clockrate!
> 
> *Next clock bin - 2050MHz:*
> 
> Oh boy, 2059MHz is kinda tricky. I don't know why, but the GPU REALY doesn't like 2050MHz. The first 5 voltage bins ALL produce the all-targets-hit (voltage, power & temp) warning and the scores with them is "all over the place", meaning that any of these voltages do not produce consistent, reliable scores. I wrote down the average of 3 benches, but had i done 3 more, i would have gotten totaly different scores again. Only from 1.075 volts onwards, scores start to reflect clocks in a some coherent way again. What is different, though, compared to the alerts @ 2036MHz, is that the alerts here @ 2050MHz do not make the card drop to lower MHz, it stays @ 2050MHz throughout the complete benchmark run.
> 
> _1.025 volts:_
> alert! - 5011 Points
> 
> _1.031 volts:_
> alert! - 4925 Points
> 
> _1.043 volts:_
> alert! - 4928 Points
> 
> _1.050 volts:_
> alert! - 5015 Points
> 
> _1.062 volts:_
> alert! - 5018 Points
> 
> _1.075 volts:_
> stable - 5020 Points
> 
> _1.081 volts:_
> stable - 5025 Points
> 
> _1.093 volts:_
> stable - 4955 Points
> 
> As said above, scores from 1.025 - 1.062 volts are not to be taken serious. Even while the card never dropped the MHz, the results varied anywhere between 4850 and 5050 - totaly random. Scores for 1.075 - 1.093 where very consistent again over all benches, with 1.093 volts always having lower points due to the fact that this is the artificial upper limit the GPU is allowed to draw. There is no way past this without a physical shuntmod (which i am not willing to try on my card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Interesting about this is, that while the card obviously ran into a voltage limitation, there was no voltage limit hit warning. WHY this bin repeatedly produced lower scores? I haveno answer to this yet.
> 
> *Next clock bin - 2062MHz:*
> 
> Well, who would have thought? The 2062MHz bin behaves quite like the 2050MHz bin, except! At 2062MHz, the last voltage bin @1.093 volts is not flailing like @ 2050MHz, but indeed working reliably and giving the highest score overall yet:
> 
> _1.025 volts:_
> alert! - 5005 Points
> 
> _1.031 volts:_
> alert! - 5012 Points
> 
> _1.043 volts:_
> alert! - 4923 Points
> 
> _1.050 volts:_
> alert! - 4933 Points
> 
> _1.062 volts:_
> alert! - 4931 Points
> 
> _1.075 volts:_
> stable - 4941 Points
> 
> _1.081 volts:_
> stable - 5025 Points
> 
> _1.093 volts:_
> stable - 5033 Points
> 
> Please don't take the bins 1.025 - 1.062 serious. Again these voltages delivered highly fluctuating results without any pattern or coherence. The last 3 (stable) bins did reproduce almost the same scores in every run again.


Thank you very much for all your work. It is exploded. Could you specify Heaven's settings to get these ratings?
With my Aorus Xtreme i have this settings on MSI Afterburner:
1.025 V = 2025 OC for AAA games: In nvidiainspector i can be seen around that consumption is 255-275W
0.950 V = 1936 OC normal games : 225 - 235W
0.812 V = 1759 OC old games : 165 - 175W

Thank you very much again.


----------



## chusjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Heya,
> 
> i've gone back to fiddling around with clocks, mVolts, benchmarking and statistics because some things these cards do didn't let me rest. As @Dasboogieman already figured out, finding the "optimal" overclock for a 1080TI is not just a matter of finding the lowest and the highest voltage at which a certain clock runs stable and just pick the middle. Within this corridor of stable operation, the performance of a 1080TI changes, seemingly pushing more frames the higher the base voltage.
> 
> Out of curiosity and partially boredom
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i made a vertical slice of my cards performance @2038 MHz. I don't know the exact use of this yet, but it's a start and i might do the same for higher clockrates later. My hope is that with this list, a pattern might become visible of how to find the "sweet spot" between highest and lowest voltage for a given clockspeed.
> 
> *How did i proceed:*
> 
> For every voltage in the following table below, i reset the voltage curve to the state it is when choosing the "silent" settings, so in essence with the card underclocked.
> 
> Set the following in MSI AB: +0 core voltage, 100% power limit, 84° templimit, -127 MHz core clock and -112 MHz ram clock, click "APPLY".
> Ctrl+F to open the voltage curve, pick the point above the voltage you want to test, and push it up to 2037MHz.
> Hit "APPLY" in the MSI AB main window: all points to the right will jump to 2037MHz to form a straight line.
> Now set the core voltage, power limit and temp limit sliders full to the right as well.
> Hit "APPLY" in the MSI AB main window again.
> Bench with Unigine Heaven.
> Actually i benched every setting 3x and averaged the score. I know, for statistical reason 10x would have been more accurate, but 3x should cut the worst runaways. It all took long enough with only 3 benches per voltage level. Here are the results:
> 
> *Usable & stable voltages for 2037 MHz on my card:*
> 
> _0.981 volts:_
> crash!* - no score
> 
> _0.993 volts:_
> Alert!** - 4800 Points
> 
> _1.000 volts:_
> stable - 4964 Points
> 
> _1.012 volts:_
> stable - 4993 Points
> 
> _1.025 volts:_
> stable - 4997 Points
> 
> _1.031 volts:_
> stable - 5000 Points
> 
> _1.043 volts:_
> stable - 5004 Points
> 
> _1.050 volts:_
> stable - 5004 Points
> 
> _1.062 volts:_
> stable - 5019 Points
> 
> _1.075 volts:_
> stable - 5018 Points
> 
> _1.081 volts:_
> Alert!** - 4980 Points
> 
> The most interesting things happen at both ends of the corridor. 0.981 volts was plain to little, the benchmark *crashed everytime a few seconds in. The voltages marked with **Alert! both ran through, but showed voltage, power and temperature alert all the time and both clocked down to 2025MHz. So they are definatly both on the brink and can in no way be considered stable. I am not quite sure why the 1.081 volt settings also exibited this behaviour though - it's definatly not too little volts and the card was miles away from overheating. Maybe the GP102 just has some internal table that qualifies this voltage as just too much for "only" 2037MHz boost. But thats just me theorycrafting, i don't have any electrical explanation for this ....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The eight usable voltage-levels from 1.000 to 1.075 actually do show a slight increase in performance for the higher voltages, but from highest to lowest (1.000 - 1.075 volts) the overall increase is a mere 1 percent. So while it might give you a few more points in benchmarks, it is absolutly pointless for FPS in any game. However, since the 1.000 volts setting is somewhat further away from the other stable benches, which might indicate beginning instability, i would choose the 1.012 volt bin as the "sweet spot" for a 2037MHz clockrate of my GPU. I'll use that as a basis for going further up in MHz and voltages now.
> 
> P.S.: Since 1.012 volts seems to be well into the stable zone of 2037MHz, i will also try and see if it is able to run 2050MHz, or if this requires 1.025 volts already.
> 
> P.P.S.: Haha, as i thought 1.012 volts is not enough for 2050MHz, it triggers all target events and clocks down to 2037MHz. This is convenient however, so i can safe the extra work of checking a voltage bin again forthe next higher clockrate. If i procede with my way, i can simply start with the next voltage bin when switching to a higher clockrate!
> 
> *Next clock bin - 2050MHz:*
> 
> Oh boy, 2059MHz is kinda tricky. I don't know why, but the GPU REALY doesn't like 2050MHz. The first 5 voltage bins ALL produce the all-targets-hit (voltage, power & temp) warning and the scores with them is "all over the place", meaning that any of these voltages do not produce consistent, reliable scores. I wrote down the average of 3 benches, but had i done 3 more, i would have gotten totaly different scores again. Only from 1.075 volts onwards, scores start to reflect clocks in a some coherent way again. What is different, though, compared to the alerts @ 2036MHz, is that the alerts here @ 2050MHz do not make the card drop to lower MHz, it stays @ 2050MHz throughout the complete benchmark run.
> 
> _1.025 volts:_
> alert! - 5011 Points
> 
> _1.031 volts:_
> alert! - 4925 Points
> 
> _1.043 volts:_
> alert! - 4928 Points
> 
> _1.050 volts:_
> alert! - 5015 Points
> 
> _1.062 volts:_
> alert! - 5018 Points
> 
> _1.075 volts:_
> stable - 5020 Points
> 
> _1.081 volts:_
> stable - 5025 Points
> 
> _1.093 volts:_
> stable - 4955 Points
> 
> As said above, scores from 1.025 - 1.062 volts are not to be taken serious. Even while the card never dropped the MHz, the results varied anywhere between 4850 and 5050 - totaly random. Scores for 1.075 - 1.093 where very consistent again over all benches, with 1.093 volts always having lower points due to the fact that this is the artificial upper limit the GPU is allowed to draw. There is no way past this without a physical shuntmod (which i am not willing to try on my card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Interesting about this is, that while the card obviously ran into a voltage limitation, there was no voltage limit hit warning. WHY this bin repeatedly produced lower scores? I haveno answer to this yet.
> 
> *Next clock bin - 2062MHz:*
> 
> Well, who would have thought? The 2062MHz bin behaves quite like the 2050MHz bin, except! At 2062MHz, the last voltage bin @1.093 volts is not flailing like @ 2050MHz, but indeed working reliably and giving the highest score overall yet:
> 
> _1.025 volts:_
> alert! - 5005 Points
> 
> _1.031 volts:_
> alert! - 5012 Points
> 
> _1.043 volts:_
> alert! - 4923 Points
> 
> _1.050 volts:_
> alert! - 4933 Points
> 
> _1.062 volts:_
> alert! - 4931 Points
> 
> _1.075 volts:_
> stable - 4941 Points
> 
> _1.081 volts:_
> stable - 5025 Points
> 
> _1.093 volts:_
> stable - 5033 Points
> 
> Please don't take the bins 1.025 - 1.062 serious. Again these voltages delivered highly fluctuating results without any pattern or coherence. The last 3 (stable) bins did reproduce almost the same scores in every run again.


Very useful post. Thank you very much.
When i have time i will try!!
Which bios version do you use? F3 or F4?

Thank you, regards!!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Any recommendation regarding the thermal pads?
> 
> I found the EKWB pads has a thermal conductivity of 3.5 W/mK - sounds like a good compromise between price and performance.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-g-2-0mm-120x24mm
> 
> It seems that "bigger is not better" - if I use a bigger thermal pad and the pressure is higher, then the hermal conductivity seems to be lower (check graphic in the link above). Is this correct?
> But the original Gigabyte thermal pads are really big...


Yes, you can NOT use the original pads from Gigabytes aircooler, they are WAY too thick. Both the EK and the Barrows waterblock are manufactured to be MUCH closer to all the the parts. And yes, if you have a pad that is too thick, it will work more as an heat-insulator instead of an heat-transporter! However, a pad too thin will not make contact with the modules, too, and act as an insulator as well.

The pads from EK seem to be ok, i used them for my waterblock as well and cooling performance is quite good. If you want to, you could also try "Thermal Grizzly minus pad 8". They are about twice as expensive, but they also have a thermal conductivity of 8 W/mK, so price/performance ratio is about the same:

http://www.performance-pcs.com/thermal-grizzly-minus-pad-8-high-performance-thermal-pad-120x20x2-0mm.html

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jexux*
> 
> Thank you very much for all your work. It is exploded. Could you specify Heaven's settings to get these ratings?
> With my Aorus Xtreme i have this settings on MSI Afterburner:
> 1.025 V = 2025 OC for AAA games: In nvidiainspector i can be seen around that consumption is 255-275W
> 0.950 V = 1936 OC normal games : 225 - 235W
> 0.812 V = 1759 OC old games : 165 - 175W
> 
> Thank you very much again.


Heaven-Settings are:
Preset: Custom
API: DX 11
Quality: Ultra
Tesse.: Extreme
Stereo: disabled
MultiMon: disabled
AA: x8
FullScreen: X
Res.: 1920*1080

The Benchmark runs on one monitor, the tools etc. on a 2nd.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chusjoe*
> 
> Very useful post. Thank you very much.
> When i have time i will try!!
> Which bios version do you use? F3 or F4?
> 
> Thank you, regards!!


I am using the F3 Bios, so base powerlimit is 300 watts, and with slider @125% its @ 375 watts.

INFO: I have extended the list in my previous post one side back, it now has data up the 2126MHz bin.


----------



## chusjoe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> I am using the F3 Bios, so base powerlimit is 300 watts, and with slider @125% its @ 375 watts.
> 
> INFO: I have extended the list in my previous post one side back, it now has data up the 2126MHz bin.


Perfect!! Thank you!!


----------



## ELIAS-EH

Hello
What is the maximum power allowed on each fan header in gtx 1080ti strix?

Thank u


----------



## TucoPacifico

Hi guys. I am having problems with some old games - like Morrowind (which I have heavily modded). The card scales down to 712 MHz regularly, resulting in frame drops from 60 to 30 FPS at times. It keeps 2063 MHz constantly only when I record the gameplay.

Is there a way to force it to use higher clocks? I have a non-Xtreme Aorus 1080 Ti and I am using MSI AB beta 4.4.0.
Thanks in advance for any advice.

EDIT: BTW: SuperPosition results on air cooling (stock):

6260 Extreme 1080p setting
10309 4K Optimized

Settings: Core +77, Mem +450. On Extreme 1080p bench the core stayed at 2075 MHz, on 4K Optimized it dropped to 2063 MHz at some point. Is this a good result on stock cooling?


----------



## TheoDouk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Hi guys. I am having problems with some old games - like Morrowind (which I have heavily modded). The card scales down to 712 MHz regularly, resulting in frame drops from 60 to 30 FPS at times. It keeps 2063 MHz constantly only when I record the gameplay.
> 
> Is there a way to force it to use higher clocks? I have a non-Xtreme Aorus 1080 Ti and I am using MSI AB beta 4.4.0.
> Thanks in advance for any advice.


Try to change the Nvidia control panel from optimised to prefer max performance maybe?


----------



## TheoDouk

Hey guys just wondering if there is any way of using a Liquid cooler on this card. Maybe by installing a nzxt bracket on it or something?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoDouk*
> 
> Try to change the Nvidia control panel from optimised to prefer max performance maybe?


Yeah, this totally worked







You rock and I love this forum. Hurray!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Yeah, this totally worked
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You rock and I love this forum. Hurray!


Every time I reinstall drivers I always go into 3d settings in the NVidia Control Panel and set it to (1) Single display performance mode (2) maximum power and (3) change "Quality" to "High Quality". You have to do this every time you reinstall your drivers.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> Every time I reinstall drivers I always go into 3d settings in the NVidia Control Panel and set it to (1) Single display performance mode (2) maximum power and (3) change "Quality" to "High Quality". You have to do this every time you reinstall your drivers.


I will test changing those other options later today. I settled on Adaptive instead of maximum performance for now, because it was eating up 69W when in idle/desktop and Adaptive already solved my old game problems. Finally +60 FPS on Solstheim island. Never achieved that with my modded Morrowind and R9 390. This card really pays off. Thanks again!


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> [...]
> You have to do this every time you reinstall your drivers.


/nitpicking mode on

Well, that depends. If you just install a newer driver release over the old one, you don't need to set these again, it will remember the old settings. BUT if you do it the RIGHT* way, then yes you'll need to adjust these settings again!

*Right way:
Uninstall old driver, restart into safemode, use DDU to remove any remnants of the old driver, restart again, install new driver.

/nitpicking mode off


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> /nitpicking mode on
> 
> Well, that depends. If you just install a newer driver release over the old one, you don't need to set these again, it will remember the old settings. BUT if you do it the RIGHT* way, then yes you'll need to adjust these settings again!
> 
> *Right way:
> Uninstall old driver, restart into safemode, use DDU to remove any remnants of the old driver, restart again, install new driver.
> 
> /nitpicking mode off


Always doin it the right way. Enjoying a stable 60 FPS on my ultra-modded games, even Morrowind







. With all those mods the Solstheim island and it's forest utilizes the GTX 1080 Ti up to 88% while playing at 60 FPS @1440p. Not bad for a game from 2002







.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Ok,

i finished my wall of text about finding the best OC-curve for my card 2 pages back. If you're still interested, it's HERE.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jexux*
> 
> Thank you very much for all your work. It is exploded. Could you specify Heaven's settings to get these ratings?


Oh man,

i'm so stupid ... the settings for "Heaven" i gave you before are incorrect. Details etc. are right, but res is not ....
It was fullscreen, yes, but somehow i managed to set it to 1600*900 and didn't notice all the time.

So, while all the relative scores and their comparison are still coherent, the absolute Scores are of course not ....


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Always doin it the right way. Enjoying a stable 60 FPS on my ultra-modded games, even Morrowind
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . With all those mods the Solstheim island and it's forest utilizes the GTX 1080 Ti up to 88% while playing at 60 FPS @1440p. Not bad for a game from 2002
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


You should totally get a 144hz 1440p monitor! I stayed with my trusted Acer PG278Q 1440p monitor for three years, but I saw an Acer Predator XB270HU for cheap on this forum so I just bought it in the spur of the moment. The first game I played was a heavily modded The Witcher (the first one with terrible graphics and awkward combat). It was seriously night and day from my old 60hz monitor. It took me a couple hours to get used to it because it just looked TOO smooth at first. Now when I see 60FPS I can completely tell the difference even from 80FPS. JUST DO IT!! You won't regret it. I'm playing Forza Horizon 3 maxed out and I'm getting 80-144FPS. Also playing ME:A and I'm getting well over 100 FPS when out and about on the planets, but while on the Tempest or during conversation the game can drop the frame rate down to the 40's thanks to Ubisoft doing us PC gamers a solid and optimizing the game for us /s. Sometimes it's fine though and I get around 90 FPS on the Tempest.

Basically, anything above 60FPS is pure bliss.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RavageTheEarth*
> 
> You should totally get a 144hz 1440p monitor! I stayed with my trusted Acer PG278Q 1440p monitor for three years, but I saw an Acer Predator XB270HU for cheap on this forum so I just bought it in the spur of the moment. The first game I played was a heavily modded The Witcher (the first one with terrible graphics and awkward combat). It was seriously night and day from my old 60hz monitor. It took me a couple hours to get used to it because it just looked TOO smooth at first. Now when I see 60FPS I can completely tell the difference even from 80FPS. JUST DO IT!! You won't regret it. I'm playing Forza Horizon 3 maxed out and I'm getting 80-144FPS. Also playing ME:A and I'm getting well over 100 FPS when out and about on the planets, but while on the Tempest or during conversation the game can drop the frame rate down to the 40's thanks to Ubisoft doing us PC gamers a solid and optimizing the game for us /s. Sometimes it's fine though and I get around 90 FPS on the Tempest.
> 
> Basically, anything above 60FPS is pure bliss.


Damn, people hate ubisoft so much, it gets blamed for games it didn't make, lol. totally agree about 144hz. I used to be on 1080p 60hz then I got a 1070, it felt like overkill for 1080p 60 so I got the xb271hu because no one makes a 144hz 1080p ips panel. That mknitor changed my gaming experience. I prefer frame rate over extreme detail and 4k. so I used to play on high/med to get 90+fps. now with the 1080ti I don't have to make compromises.


----------



## rolldog

Does anyone know if any other manufacturer besides EK is making a waterblock for the aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme or maybe even a custom backplate, since my new case that I'll be putting this card in doesn't have a reverse chassis installed? I like the EK waterblocks, even though they included 0.5mm thermal pads instead of the 1mm thermal pads needed with the waterblock to cool everything on the GPU, but I'm going to be working on a very unique build and was hoping I could find something a little different. I really like the Heatkiller GPU waterblock, but they only have one for the reference PCB, besides that, in my new case, only the backplate will be seen.

I guess an EK waterblock would be fine, but I'd like to have a custom backplate, or at least something unique. I've already ordered the EK waterblock for this card, but I haven't received it yet. I read somewhere that there was an issue with the backplate, but I can't remember exactly what it was. It was either the screws not matching up or possibly using the original backplate with the waterblock. Does anyone know what I'm referring to or can refresh my memory? I've been on vacation the last 2 weeks so I haven't really been keeping up on everything. I'd appreciate any insight or suggestions.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> Does anyone know if any other manufacturer besides EK is making a waterblock for the aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme or maybe even a custom backplate, since my new case that I'll be putting this card in doesn't have a reverse chassis installed? I like the EK waterblocks, even though they included 0.5mm thermal pads instead of the 1mm thermal pads needed with the waterblock to cool everything on the GPU, but I'm going to be working on a very unique build and was hoping I could find something a little different. I really like the Heatkiller GPU waterblock, but they only have one for the reference PCB, besides that, in my new case, only the backplate will be seen.
> 
> I guess an EK waterblock would be fine, but I'd like to have a custom backplate, or at least something unique. I've already ordered the EK waterblock for this card, but I haven't received it yet. I read somewhere that there was an issue with the backplate, but I can't remember exactly what it was. It was either the screws not matching up or possibly using the original backplate with the waterblock. Does anyone know what I'm referring to or can refresh my memory? I've been on vacation the last 2 weeks so I haven't really been keeping up on everything. I'd appreciate any insight or suggestions.


Two things that might apply to what you are asking:

A:
It is not possible to use the original AORUS backplate with the EK waterblock. The original backplate requires screws going trough the PCB into the backplate to fix it. Most of these holes are required to fix the EK waterblock, with screws coming from the other side.

B:
The EK backplate comes with screws of the correct length, BUT they are kinda hidden in a double bottom of the carton. If you miss them and try to fix the backplate with the short screws that come with the waterblock, it's gonna drive you nuts ....

C:
Yes, Barrows has a waterblock for the AORUS 1080TI as well, but we have no quality review of that yet. @Udog ordered one though and hopefully will post his experiences here.


----------



## UdoG

I'm not sure if I will ever received my order:

Last message from seller (eBay):
Quote:


> I do not know how to explain to you, I do B2C business than 10 years, it is first time lost package by DHL, logistics agent reply they are looking for package now.
> I am waitting for last result.
> if you still need it, i resend it by other shipping method asap, or i refund to you when i get result from agent.
> 
> Sorry for inconvenient.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> I'm not sure if I will ever received my order:
> 
> Last message from seller (eBay):


Did you pay via paypal? If so, activate paypal customer protection and have them retransfer your payment ASAP. DHL doesn't "loose" packages. Did he give you a tracking number? If not, it's a high chance he's trying to scam you...


----------



## UdoG

I ask every day for the tracking number - today I got the posted message.
Yes, I paid with PayPal. I will wait for another 1-2 days and then I will inform PayPal.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> I ask every day for the tracking number - today I got the posted message.
> Yes, I paid with PayPal. I will wait for another 1-2 days and then I will inform PayPal.


Honestly,

there is no reason for not giving you the tracking number, except he hasn't one. I wouldn't hassle around any longer. Do it asap, realy man.


----------



## DisposableHero7

*More 1080TI overclocking oddities ....*

Oh boy ....
After going through columns and columns of GPU clockrates vs. voltages, benching them all several times, doing it then again with different RAM speeds, the GP102 alias 1080TI presents itself more and more a realy complicated beast. Not only does it produce better results with more volts on the same MHz settings, it also does not reliably push more frames on a higer MHz bin with more volts, than it does on a lower MHz bin with fewer volts. And that is even before changing RAM clocks, which totaly messes up all results you gathered before.

3 examples to show how playing arround ALOT with clockrates doesnt realy do alot to the cards performance:

*The first test shows the result of my current most extreme preset i saved in MSI Afterburner:*

Custom voltage curve, forcing the card up to 2126MHz @ 1.093v (which are held stable during the whole benchmark, no drop!).
RAM set to an +525MHz offset, resulting in 1,535 true, 6,142 quad datarate or 12,284 NVIDIA marketing (BS) MHz.
Power, voltage and temperature sliders all to the max., with no targets beeing hit throughout the benchmark.
CPU Core i7 6700K @ 4.5GHz



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







While 6158 points is not too bad of a result, i definatly had scores in the 62xx region before. I don't get there anymore. Hm ... whatever.

*The second test shows the standard "OC" setting the card comes with:*

Regular voltage curve, only +25MHz offset on the GPU, resulting in the card running with 2062MHz @ 1.075v max. (stable, no drop!).
RAM set to an +108MHz offset, resulting in 1,431 true, 5,724 quad datarate or 11,448 NVIDIA marketing (BS) MHz.
Power, voltage and temperature sliders all to the max., with no targets beeing hit throughout the benchmark.
CPU Core i7 6700K @ 4.5GHz



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







6055 points, kind of EXACTLY where it was on "OC" mode with aircooling. No better performance just from watercooling alone!

*The third test however shows that GP102 simply doesn't care anymore above a certain MHz bin what offset you used or the actual MHz it reaches:*

Regular voltage curve, only +25MHz offset on the GPU, resulting in the card running with 2062MHz @ 1.075v max. (stable, no drop!).
RAM set to an +525MHz offset, resulting in 1,535 true, 6,142 quad datarate or 12,284 NVIDIA marketing (BS) MHz.
Power, voltage and temperature sliders all to the max., with no targets beeing hit throughout the benchmark.
CPU Core i7 6700K @ 4.5GHz



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







6150 Points. So in essence, just like the first of these 3 tests, but with the CPU left at standard "OC" settings. 2062 or 2126 MHz, both absolutly stable without any hickups, both running at 38°C max, RAM heavily overclocked, all sliders to the max. = no meaningful difference in performance what so ever. The only mentionable performanceboost here seems to come from the overclocked RAM.

*Gist:*
There is definatly parameters and levers deeper down in the GPU that we have neither control over nor get any monitoring feedback about. It would be otherwise completly unexplainable why absolutly stable 2126MHz @ 1.093v produce not even a measurable performanceplus compared to 2062MHz @1.075v. The minor difference we got here is well inside the regular fluctuation and the margin of error of the measurement.


----------



## chubalz

Is Seasonic M12II-620 EVO 620W 80Plus Bronze Fully Modular enough to power a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Aorus 11GB


----------



## gpvecchi

OK, I found the issue of my instability: I just need to install an overclocking program (Afterburner or Aorus), even if it's not running.
Anyone else?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chubalz*
> 
> Is Seasonic M12II-620 EVO 620W 80Plus Bronze Fully Modular enough to power a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Aorus 11GB


Yes, you're good with that PSU.

Nvidia "recommends" using a 550 watts PSU, and that is on the safe side and taking into account cheap 550watt units. Seasonic is one of the best PSU makers in the world and yours is nor exception. It has formidable stability on all rails and an overall efficiency of over 85%.

HOWEVER:
Your PSU seems to have 2 seperate 12V rails, each rated for 24 amps. 24 amps (288watts @ 12v) is not enough to feed the AORUS 1080TI, especially with maxed out powertarget. Be sure to connect one of the PCIe cables from the card to 12V rail 1, and the other cable to 12V rail 2 on your PSU - do NOT connect both PCIe cables to the same 12V rail. Check your PSUs manual which modular connector is on which rail!


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> *More 1080TI overclocking oddities ....*
> 
> Oh boy ....
> After going through columns and columns of GPU clockrates vs. voltages, benching them all several times, doing it then again with different RAM speeds, the GP102 alias 1080TI presents itself more and more a realy complicated beast. Not only does it produce better results with more volts on the same MHz settings, it also does not reliably push more frames on a higer MHz bin with more volts, than it does on a lower MHz bin with fewer volts. And that is even before changing RAM clocks, which totaly messes up all results you gathered before.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 3 examples to show how playing arround ALOT with clockrates doesnt realy do alot to the cards performance:
> 
> *The first test shows the result of my current most extreme preset i saved in MSI Afterburner:*
> 
> Custom voltage curve, forcing the card up to 2126MHz @ 1.093v (which are held stable during the whole benchmark, no drop!).
> RAM set to an +525MHz offset, resulting in 1,535 true, 6,142 quad datarate or 12,284 NVIDIA marketing (BS) MHz.
> Power, voltage and temperature sliders all to the max., with no targets beeing hit throughout the benchmark.
> CPU Core i7 6700K @ 4.5GHz
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> While 6158 points is not too bad of a result, i definatly had scores in the 62xx region before. I don't get there anymore. Hm ... whatever.
> 
> *The second test shows the standard "OC" setting the card comes with:*
> 
> Regular voltage curve, only +25MHz offset on the GPU, resulting in the card running with 2062MHz @ 1.075v max. (stable, no drop!).
> RAM set to an +108MHz offset, resulting in 1,431 true, 5,724 quad datarate or 11,448 NVIDIA marketing (BS) MHz.
> Power, voltage and temperature sliders all to the max., with no targets beeing hit throughout the benchmark.
> CPU Core i7 6700K @ 4.5GHz
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6055 points, kind of EXACTLY where it was on "OC" mode with aircooling. No better performance just from watercooling alone!
> 
> *The third test however shows that GP102 simply doesn't care anymore above a certain MHz bin what offset you used or the actual MHz it reaches:*
> 
> Regular voltage curve, only +25MHz offset on the GPU, resulting in the card running with 2062MHz @ 1.075v max. (stable, no drop!).
> RAM set to an +525MHz offset, resulting in 1,535 true, 6,142 quad datarate or 12,284 NVIDIA marketing (BS) MHz.
> Power, voltage and temperature sliders all to the max., with no targets beeing hit throughout the benchmark.
> CPU Core i7 6700K @ 4.5GHz
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6150 Points. So in essence, just like the first of these 3 tests, but with the CPU left at standard "OC" settings. 2062 or 2126 MHz, both absolutly stable without any hickups, both running at 38°C max, RAM heavily overclocked, all sliders to the max. = no meaningful difference in performance what so ever. The only mentionable performanceboost here seems to come from the overclocked RAM.
> 
> *Gist:*
> There is definatly parameters and levers deeper down in the GPU that we have neither control over nor get any monitoring feedback about. It would be otherwise completly unexplainable why absolutly stable 2126MHz @ 1.093v produce not even a measurable performanceplus compared to 2062MHz @1.075v. The minor difference we got here is well inside the regular fluctuation and the margin of error of the measurement.


These cards really are confusing. They just have a mind of their own it seems. There seems to be so many variables in performance with the GP102 than with previous generation. I didn't realize this is what I was getting myself into when I swapped out my 980 Ti for this card. I never would have thought that I would be playing with curves putting so much time into overclocking and benching this GPU. It's truly been a trip. I've learned a lot. Never even heard of a PerfCap before getting this card!


----------



## Berserkmir

Hello guys, i do have bought aorus 1080 ti extreme, whit that EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus - Nickel, my sistem is aorus gamming 5 moterboard and ryzen 7 1700 cpu, i have modify a little the backplate and now that fith very well, but i have some problem whit overhatting in some part, i see the original fancooling provide to dissipate heat to the component stamping on its "magic r15" http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-..., while the waterblock seems not cover on its,now in that part of videocard i recording whit apropriate sensor byond 70 degree, while in the rest of the video card i do have 40 degree, result after 10 min to use videocard start to have croma aberraion stability problem, anyone have the same my problem?


----------



## chubalz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Yes, you're good with that PSU.
> 
> Nvidia "recommends" using a 550 watts PSU, and that is on the safe side and taking into account cheap 550watt units. Seasonic is one of the best PSU makers in the world and yours is nor exception. It has formidable stability on all rails and an overall efficiency of over 85%.
> 
> HOWEVER:
> Your PSU seems to have 2 seperate 12V rails, each rated for 24 amps. 24 amps (288watts @ 12v) is not enough to feed the AORUS 1080TI, especially with maxed out powertarget. Be sure to connect one of the PCIe cables from the card to 12V rail 1, and the other cable to 12V rail 2 on your PSU - do NOT connect both PCIe cables to the same 12V rail. Check your PSUs manual which modular connector is on which rail!


1. How do you look at the specs? because i want to learn how to check and compute PSU PCIE power computation.

2. How about Seasonic G-650 650Watts 80Plus Gold Modular. Can a one PCIe cable enough to power AORUS 1080TI?


----------



## murenitu

Like that you can not put the blackplate oem with the ekwb block? They are doing a mount with sli and I have just been mounted with the original blackplate to talk the lighting of the aorus logo and copper block.


----------



## UdoG

Are any problems concerning SLI known (with EKWB backplate)?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> Like that you can not put the blackplate oem with the ekwb block? They are doing a mount with sli and I have just been mounted with the original blackplate to talk the lighting of the aorus logo and copper block.


I dunno why you'd want to, the EK backplate is superior in every way.


----------



## murenitu

I like to keep the originality of the pcb and above all for the lighting that it has.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> I like to keep the originality of the pcb and above all for the lighting that it has.


Then you're out of luck, I don't think the EK block will fit with the original backplate unless you get some custom screws.

If you're determined, check out http://www.helipal.com/

You will need some special screws.


----------



## murenitu

In principle today or tomorrow I will have the pc, and I will hang photos.


----------



## murenitu

IMG-20170616-WA0045.jpg 275k .jpg file


IMG-20170616-WA0048.jpg 238k .jpg file


For now the thing goes like this, nothing will be finished


----------



## murenitu

Already at home finished. Seen the seen I will not do more than what allows the "house" so if they stay to 2000 or hay I'm satisfied.


----------



## smithsrt8

Question about XOC flashing that I am seeing...I want to see if I can squeeze out any more performance now that my card is under water....is it the same way as flashing any other BIOS for your GPU? I have flashed my video cards before (and flashed my old 1080ti) but the directions seem to make it more complicated than that...what BIOS do I use and is it pretty straight forward? I am getting 2055 @ 1083mv right now


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> Already at home finished. Seen the seen I will not do more than what allows the "house" so if they stay to 2000 or hay I'm satisfied.


Nice SLI setup - what are the temp's of the upper and lower card and what's you water temp?
This would be interesting because of the serial connection (SLI).

Which SLI bridge did you use - the one, which are delivered with the mainboard? So no high bandwidth bridge?

Thanks.


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> Already at home finished. Seen the seen I will not do more than what allows the "house" so if they stay to 2000 or hay I'm satisfied.


Nice SLI setup - what are the temp's of the upper and lower card and what's you water temp?
This would be interesting because of the serial connection (SLI).

In which way did you mount the original backplate?

Thanks.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> Like that you can not put the blackplate oem with the ekwb block? They are doing a mount with sli and I have just been mounted with the original blackplate to talk the lighting of the aorus logo and copper block.


How was the original plate fitted with EK block ?.... detail please ?


----------



## murenitu

I try to explain my best to feel for my English. If someone understands Spanish, it would be better.

The original blackplate is made by modifying with longer screws and inserting rubber washers of the specified diameter. Is entirely possible.

The metal cap carried by the blackplate must be removed completely and from here, add between the cap of the caucho underneath to give separation, and washers also to give the correct diameter to the passage of the new screw.
For now I only had one night for about 2h working I could not try more, as it is and in full heat wave in barcelona we are more than 30 degrees maximum temperatures are 53/54 to 2000mhz. At full load for 20 / 30mins playing project Cars 2k Dsm9 and all adjustments to ultra without vertical Sync.

Being more realistic with more "normal" games because the DSM9 of the project cars consumes a lot and counting with the ambient heat that these days, it is rare that they exceed the 50 degrees the 2 gpus.
Now it is bought to improve even more, the front cover of ColdZero specifically is http://www.coldzero.eu/8453-thickbox_leoelec/nzxt-h440-front-panel.jpg With the intention of improving the air flow the maximum.

I'm quite happy when I tune it up a bit more and with the hole coldzero and a more "normal" temperature about 24/26 degrees of ambience not like these days of 32/34 degrees the thing should go something better for sure.
Simply by the fact of not having 6 fans however quiet they are, and the 2 gus so close it was impossible to mount a sli by the temperatures above the lower one. Now there is no problem.py when I tune it a bit more and with the hole coldzero and a more "normal" temperatures about 24/26 degrees of ambient not like these days of 32/34 degrees the thing must be


----------



## Berserkmir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> I try to explain my best to feel for my English. If someone understands Spanish, it would be better.
> 
> The original blackplate is made by modifying with longer screws and inserting rubber washers of the specified diameter. Is entirely possible.
> 
> The metal cap carried by the blackplate must be removed completely and from here, add between the cap of the caucho underneath to give separation, and washers also to give the correct diameter to the passage of the new screw.
> For now I only had one night for about 2h working I could not try more, as it is and in full heat wave in barcelona we are more than 30 degrees maximum temperatures are 53/54 to 2000mhz. At full load for 20 / 30mins playing project Cars 2k Dsm9 and all adjustments to ultra without vertical Sync.
> 
> Being more realistic with more "normal" games because the DSM9 of the project cars consumes a lot and counting with the ambient heat that these days, it is rare that they exceed the 50 degrees the 2 gpus.
> Now it is bought to improve even more, the front cover of ColdZero specifically is http://www.coldzero.eu/8453-thickbox_leoelec/nzxt-h440-front-panel.jpg With the intention of improving the air flow the maximum.
> 
> I'm quite happy when I tune it up a bit more and with the hole coldzero and a more "normal" temperature about 24/26 degrees of ambience not like these days of 32/34 degrees the thing should go something better for sure.
> Simply by the fact of not having 6 fans however quiet they are, and the 2 gus so close it was impossible to mount a sli by the temperatures above the lower one. Now there is no problem.py when I tune it a bit more and with the hole coldzero and a more "normal" temperatures about 24/26 degrees of ambient not like these days of 32/34 degrees the thing must be


Hi, what water block you have used, because i have used ek waterblock for my ouros 1080 ti extreme, i have modify original backplate to use with it and now in overclock i have big problem of oreheating in any place of the videocard.


----------



## murenitu

ekwb 360mm x 60mm


----------



## gpvecchi

Which overvolt do I have to choose in Afterburner settings? Third party? Thanks!


----------



## UdoG

http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-WB-11GD#kf

Looks great...


----------



## TheoDouk

Hey guys I want to use a AIO cooler on my card and was thinking of going for this one. https://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/accelero-hybrid-iii-120.html
People have bought the 980ti edition and have fit it successfully on the 1080ti FE. I was wondering if you guys think this will work on my Aorus?


----------



## theshadybandit

OK guys help me out here, I have the extreme edition and YES I am one hundred % sure

The picture marked with a star is my PCB and the other with the 2 on it is also an extreme PCB. My chips are so much bigger than the other and I am having trouble with fitting the EK water cooling water block because of the difference in the chips. it is the same one in the picture from gigabyte and the only other picture of my PCB I can find on the internet surely im not the only one with one of these?

EK cant see the difference and are telling me i have it all wrong. Im not to worried about that part any more Im more interested in why my PCB is different. .


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshadybandit*
> 
> OK guys help me out here, I have the extreme edition and YES I am one hundred % sure
> 
> . * THE PICTURE WITH THE STAR IS NOT A 1080 OR A TITAN XP. IT IS AN AORUS 1080TI EXTREME FROM HERE UNDER THE DURABILITY TAB http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#kf.
> 
> LOOK AT GPU Z AND THE HDMI AT THE BACK !!!!
> 
> The picture marked with a star is my PCB and the other is also an extreme PCB. My chips are so much bigger than the other and I am having trouble with fitting the EK water cooling water block because of the difference in the chips.
> 
> EK cant see the difference and are telling me i have it all wrong can some one tell me *** is going on here may card is looking bent as fcuk.


That is very odd indeed.

If the picture you marked with an asterisk is realy how your PCB looks, than you have a problem. Usually the AORUS 1080TI Xtreme PCB looks like the one underneath with the memory module
you put a circle arround missing. The upper picture is either a different card, OR Gigabyte have changed the cards layout mid-production, which would realy suck for everyone wanting to use an alternative full cover block. with those changed parts, it's no wonder the regular AORUS ti fulcover waterblock does not fit.

Which memory module is your card missing?


----------



## theshadybandit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> That is very odd indeed.
> 
> If the picture you marked with an asterisk is realy how your PCB looks, than you have a problem. Usually the AORUS 1080TI Xtreme PCB looks like the one underneath with the memory module
> you put a circle arround missing. The upper picture is either a different card, OR Gigabyte have changed the cards layout mid-production, which would realy suck for everyone wanting to use an alternative full cover block. with those changed parts, it's no wonder the regular AORUS ti fulcover waterblock does not fit.
> 
> Which memory module is your card missing?


----------



## lsantana954

For the people whove had to RMA their boards what was your experience like?

I sent mine in due to not being able to game or run unigine in the OC mode. I spoke to Gigabyte yesterday and they said they couldn't duplicate the problem and that the board passed the first set of test . They asked me question about my rig(which I provided to them in the they provided) and asked me exactly what games and software I was seeing the problems with. They finally asked if I wanted them to perform the 2nd round of testing, which I agreed to, and they said they would run the software and TRY to run the game(witcher 3)

Does anyone know what testing they do?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> For the people whove had to RMA their boards what was your experience like?
> 
> I sent mine in due to not being able to game or run unigine in the OC mode. I spoke to Gigabyte yesterday and they said they couldn't duplicate the problem and that the board passed the first set of test . They asked me question about my rig(which I provided to them in the they provided) and asked me exactly what games and software I was seeing the problems with. They finally asked if I wanted them to perform the 2nd round of testing, which I agreed to, and they said they would run the software and TRY to run the game(witcher 3)
> 
> Does anyone know what testing they do?


Dont use the Aorus software your card could have been fine. The Aorus software is unstable a lot of user have had their problems go away after uninstalling it.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> For the people whove had to RMA their boards what was your experience like?
> 
> I sent mine in due to not being able to game or run unigine in the OC mode. I spoke to Gigabyte yesterday and they said they couldn't duplicate the problem and that the board passed the first set of test . They asked me question about my rig(which I provided to them in the they provided) and asked me exactly what games and software I was seeing the problems with. They finally asked if I wanted them to perform the 2nd round of testing, which I agreed to, and they said they would run the software and TRY to run the game(witcher 3)
> 
> Does anyone know what testing they do?


I can tell you about my situation but it was rather unique...I had purchased a Aorus 1080 ti from Avadirect as they were the only ones that had it in stock (I am very impatient sometimes and didn't want to wait a week)...I got the card...noticed that the card would not operate beyond PCIe x4...not matter what I did...what games I played...anything...I tried it and even tried to change BIOS/Drivers everything...nothing worked...I contacted AVADirect and they said I would have to RMA it with Gigabyte since they mainly deal with complete systems but they would assist me...at first Gigabyte almost seemed like they were going to give me the run around and the normal "try this" "try that" scenario however I told them the card was less than 30 days old and we needed to do an Advanced Replacement RMA...they took my credit card and placed a "hold" for $720 (the cost of a new card) and mailed me out another card which I received about 2 days later (I am also on the west coast as they are in CIty of Industry) and mailed mine back...they took the hold off the credit card and verified the issue...a little bit of pushing made my experience a lot better...I run a business so I feel that the "face to face" interactions are very important and regardless of what the issue is, if there is a legitimate issue a company needs to step up to the plate and take care of it if there is any possibility it could be related.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Dont use the Aorus software your card could have been fine. The Aorus software is unstable a lot of user have had their problems go away after uninstalling it.


I did remove it. Using afterburner I couldn't raise the core clock higher than15(OC mode was 20 or 25) with power/temp maxed with out the game crashing.

This is on an xtreme card with the latest bios.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> I did remove it. Using afterburner I couldn't raise the core clock higher than15(OC mode was 20 or 25) with power/temp maxed with out the game crashing.
> 
> This is on an xtreme card with the latest bios.


Did you try adding core voltage? To what did it boost to at 15+?


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Did you try adding core voltage? To what did it boost to at 15+?


Yea I added between 25-75 and no difference. At 15 with would average out to around 1987 and max out at 2030(depending on voltage) with temps in the mid 60s I wouldn't get blue screens but the program or game would just shut down or freeze up.

The highest I would be able to get the memory would be around +125.

The witcher 3 would be on 1440p with everything set to ultra. I tried it with and without hairworks.
Unigine same resolution with max settings.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> Yea I added between 25-75 and no difference. At 15 with would average out to around 1987 and max out at 2030(depending on voltage) with temps in the mid 60s I wouldn't get blue screens but the program or game would just shut down or freeze up.
> 
> The highest I would be able to get the memory would be around +125.
> 
> The witcher 3 would be on 1440p with everything set to ultra. I tried it with and without hairworks.
> Unigine same resolution with max settings.


I mean a lot of users can't reach that boost, if it's stable stock boosting around 1900MHz is normal. Gigabyte is not gonna guarantee you a 2000+ card, they rated it at around 1600'ish mark anything above GPU boost is doing it for you.They'll probably wont see anything wrong with the card, it's down to silicone lottery.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> I mean a lot of users can't reach that boost, if it's stable stock boosting around 1900MHz is normal. Gigabyte is not gonna guarantee you a 2000+ card, they rated it at around 1600'ish mark anything above GPU boost is doing it for you.They'll probably wont see anything wrong with the card, it's down to silicone lottery.


I understand that but IMO it should at least be able to perform at the presets that Gigabyte set. I understand some games are more demanding than others but it can't even run unigine.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> I understand that but IMO it should at least be able to perform at the presets that Gigabyte set. I understand some games are more demanding than others but it can't even run unigine.


Yeah it's frustrating that's why they don't guarantee it, anything over beyond that is GPU boost algorithm taking away the fun in OC'ing our card lol.


----------



## lsantana954

well hopefully they'll have an answer for me here shortly. I spoke to them earlier today and they said in gaming mode they ran unigine and no issues. they plan on running the card in OC mode with unigine running in demo mode and in benchmark mode.


----------



## mnemo_05

will this fit on a Fractal Core 500? anyone here using one? thanks!


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshadybandit*


A fellow member came across the same a short while ago whilst fitting his EK waterblock....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627238/gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owners-thread/1340#post_26150121


----------



## mnemo_05

weird af

the vram placement should not be a problem but the vrm height on that card will definitely be an issue. I doubt EK is aware that there are at least 2 pcb layout for this model

I am about to get one of this card myself. I just need to know if it will fit my case. The website says it is 55mm thick, can anyone confirm this? thanks!


----------



## TheoDouk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoDouk*
> 
> Hey guys I want to use a AIO cooler on my card and was thinking of going for this one. https://www.arctic.ac/uk_en/accelero-hybrid-iii-120.html
> People have bought the 980ti edition and have fit it successfully on the 1080ti FE. I was wondering if you guys think this will work on my Aorus?


Someone please reply


----------



## Streetdragon

You have the aorus. best bet would be: buy the ekwb block for it, a little res-pump-combo and 240mm rad.(water/tube etc)

for sure it cost more.. but i think you will hold the card for some years


----------



## TheoDouk

But will this liquid method work I really don't want a water loop
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Streetdragon*
> 
> You have the aorus. best bet would be: buy the ekwb block for it, a little res-pump-combo and 240mm rad.(water/tube etc)
> 
> for sure it cost more.. but i think you will hold the card for some years


----------



## Streetdragon

https://static.arctic.ac/media/wysiwyg/Products/Accelero_Hybrid_III_120/Kompatibilit%C3%A4ts_check_DE.pdf

it says nothing about compatibility for 1080TI or even the aorus.
you should contact the side and ask, if it would work


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoDouk*
> 
> But will this liquid method work I really don't want a water loop


TLDR it will work but you will get overheating VRMs + VRAM.

Your best bet if you insist on strapping an AIO to the Aorus is to get the Kraken G10 or G12.


----------



## TheoDouk

You're provided with vrm coolers etc tho?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> TLDR it will work but you will get overheating VRMs + VRAM.
> 
> Your best bet if you insist on strapping an AIO to the Aorus is to get the Kraken G10 or G12.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoDouk*
> 
> You're provided with vrm coolers etc tho?


That is a difficult question to answer. This card doesn't have stand-alone VRM/VRAM cooling. This means they will only be cooled by the NZXT 60mm fan blowing on it (which is much better than the Accelero design which cools from the other side of the PCB and/or glue is involved).

This is still terrible compared to a full waterblock but it will do for what you want.


----------



## luan87us

Hi guys. I'm really considering picking this card up from newegg and just wondering if I can just run it out the box with the Aorus engine? I don't like messing with power settings and fan curve. I'm reading a lot of people are having stability issue with this card so I am kinda worried.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luan87us*
> 
> Hi guys. I'm really considering picking this card up from newegg and just wondering if I can just run it out the box with the Aorus engine? I don't like messing with power settings and fan curve. I'm reading a lot of people are having stability issue with this card so I am kinda worried.


My card has been a champ off the stock oc settings. Maxes at 1962 and settles in at 1898. Runs cool, quiet, no coil whine.

I've been mining bitcoin for the better part of 3 days here without issue so it's stable. Guess like anything I might of just got a really good card and "YMMV".

Outside of it being ugly my Aorus is beast.

*At night I limit my gpu to 70% power usage while mining since I can't keep an eye on it. During the day I let it run unchecked.


----------



## luan87us

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> My card has been a champ off the stock oc settings. Maxes at 1962 and settles in at 1898. Runs cool, quiet, no coil whine.
> 
> I've been mining bitcoin for the better part of 3 days here without issue so it's stable. Guess like anything I might of just got a really good card and "YMMV".
> 
> Outside of it being ugly my Aorus is beast.
> 
> *At night I limit my gpu to 70% power usage while mining since I can't keep an eye on it. During the day I let it run unchecked.


Haha I don't think the Aorus is ugly. I think it's one of the better looking 1080ti out there right now aside from the Strix and the upcoming Lighting Z but those are expensive. The reason I asked is because I don't really chase benchmarks number so as long as the card run stable and cool out the box I'll be fine with it. And with the 1080ti being so powerful already I don't see the need to get a couple hundreds megahertz out of it.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luan87us*
> 
> Haha I don't think the Aorus is ugly. I think it's one of the better looking 1080ti out there right now aside from the Strix and the upcoming Lighting Z but those are expensive. The reason I asked is because I don't really chase benchmarks number so as long as the card run stable and cool out the box I'll be fine with it. And with the 1080ti being so powerful already I don't see the need to get a couple hundreds megahertz out of it.


Got you.

Well in my experience it's a damned fine card. I picked it up because I got tired of waiting on the one I wanted to come in stock and have been very happy with it.


----------



## lsantana954

well gigabyte called me today with an update on the testing they've been doing on my card, and here is what they said.

As far as the card crashing in OC mode in unigine they said its a compatibility issue with the softwares directx 11 as per windows event viewer. On directx9 and opengl(the other two options under the api tab) the OC mode didnt crash. They ran 3d mark and fire strike for a few hours and no issues.

As far as witcher 3 in OC mode they didnt have the game to duplicate the crashes but they tried it on ghost recon wild lands and ran it for a few hours with no issues.

So they say there is nothing wrong with the card and possible issue with the nvidia drivers and unigine directx11.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> well gigabyte called me today with an update on the testing they've been doing on my card, and here is what they said.
> 
> As far as the card crashing in OC mode in unigine they said its a compatibility issue with the softwares directx 11 as per windows event viewer. On directx9 and opengl(the other two options under the api tab) the OC mode didnt crash. They ran 3d mark and fire strike for a few hours and no issues.
> 
> As far as witcher 3 in OC mode they didnt have the game to duplicate the crashes but they tried it on ghost recon wild lands and ran it for a few hours with no issues.
> 
> So they say there is nothing wrong with the card and possible issue with the nvidia drivers and unigine directx11.


I'd try running everything at stock when you get the gpu back. CPU, Memory, the gpu. Could be a funky oc somewhere else causing the issue.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Dont use the Aorus software your card could have been fine. The Aorus software is unstable a lot of user have had their problems go away after uninstalling it.
> 
> 
> 
> I did remove it. Using afterburner I couldn't raise the core clock higher than15(OC mode was 20 or 25) with power/temp maxed with out the game crashing.
> 
> This is on an xtreme card with the latest bios.
Click to expand...

The Aorus "software" doesn't even remember more than 2 points on the fan curve. It is a bad joke, to release such crap. People set four points in fan curve and after pc reboot the card will stay at point 2, swinging the fans at whatever value is set there. Really big mistake Gigabyte. Embarrassing even more, never got a reply from customer support, I have reported this. Rocking with MSI AB beta.

Wysłane z mojego D5803 przy użyciu Tapatalka


----------



## reflex75

I have incompatibility issue between Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti Xtreme and Motherboard Asus Maximus VIII Extreme: graphic card not detected.
My reseller sent me a replacement but still the same problem (motherboard can't detect this GPU)
I've updated my BIOS and tried all the PCI slots, still nothing.
Someone else with the same problem:

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/6f26ao/gigabyte_1080_ti_not_found_by_asus_motherboard/
Crazy to see such hardware incompatibility between premium products...


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reflex75*
> 
> I have incompatibility issue between Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti Xtreme and Motherboard Asus Maximus VIII Extreme: graphic card not detected.
> My reseller sent me a replacement but still the same problem (motherboard can't detect this GPU)
> I've updated my BIOS and tried all the PCI slots, still nothing.
> Someone else with the same problem:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/6f26ao/gigabyte_1080_ti_not_found_by_asus_motherboard/
> Crazy to see such hardware incompatibility between premium products...


I don't know if it's possible to flash the bios of the Aorus Xtreme with latest to see if that helps.


----------



## reflex75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> I don't know if it's possible to flash the bios of the Aorus Xtreme with latest to see if that helps.


Thanks but can't flash a device which is not even detected...
Someone is not respecting the standards norms,it's a serious issue.
I wonder who is to blame but I trust more Asus quality controls...


----------



## gpvecchi

Guys, sorry to re-post, but can someone give me this advice? I'm trying to solve my crashes issues...
Which overvolt do you use in Afterburner settings? Third party? Thanks!


----------



## smithsrt8

Yes...if you have a Gigabyte card use third party...


----------



## gpvecchi

Thanks! Yup Aorus 1080Ti!


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> I'm not sure if I will ever received my order:
> 
> Last message from seller (eBay):


It must have been an overseas shipment.


----------



## UdoG

Yes, China...
In the meantime I got my money back. Sorry guy's, I can't do a test of the barrow block.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> Yes, China...
> In the meantime I got my money back. Sorry guy's, I can't do a test of the barrow block.


No worries,
glad you weren't ripped off though!


----------



## gpvecchi

Holy cow, I can't get rid of games crashing with directX error; the culprits are not OC programs, as Unigine is stable with AB or Aorus installed (my card can't handle OC mode, but this gives a diffrent crash).
Could ther directX error related to Windows game mode?


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Holy cow, I can't get rid of games crashing with directX error; the culprits are not OC programs, as Unigine is stable with AB or Aorus installed (my card can't handle OC mode, but this gives a diffrent crash).
> Could ther directX error related to Windows game mode?


If your card can't handle OC-mode (no matter what the error-code windows gives you), but runs fine on lower clocks, it's a 99% chance it's your card and not something else (unless your PSU is on the brink of dying). If it can't run these clocks stable, its defective and i would RMA it asap. Eliminate one source of errors at a time. So exchange the faulty card first and see if any problems persist.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Holy cow, I can't get rid of games crashing with directX error; the culprits are not OC programs, as Unigine is stable with AB or Aorus installed (my card can't handle OC mode, but this gives a diffrent crash).
> Could ther directX error related to Windows game mode?


So its crashing in OC mode in unigine? Sounds like the same problem I'm having. I sent my card in and gigabyte ran the test and determine there was a compatibility issue with directx11 and the card/nvidia driver. They ran unigine in OC mode in directx9 and open GL and had no crashed. Also ran it on fire strike and 3d mark in OC mode and everything was fine.

Can you confirm it doesn't crash in OC mode in either DirectX9 and open GL.


----------



## gpvecchi

I didn't explain fine, sorry... In Unigine my card crashes in OC mode (it hangs, so probably I didn't win the silicon lottery), while it is fine in game mode.
But in game mode, I have crashes in-games, not hangs up, but directX errors.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> I didn't explain fine, sorry... In Unigine my card crashes in OC mode (it hangs, so probably I didn't win the silicon lottery), while it is fine in game mode.
> But in game mode, I have crashes in-games, not hangs up, but directX errors.


If you can would you mind checking if unigine crashed in OC mode but with it set to either directx9 or openGL?


----------



## daFtClock

What is the general consensus on repasting these cards with liquid metal or other better quality TIMs? Are people finding it worth it? If I am using an aggressive overclock I can sometimes go above 80 deg which is quite high but this is only while experimenting. My current OC and (aggressive) fan curve have me sitting around 70 deg.


----------



## paulclift

I've got this card, extreme edition, getting delivered tomorrow. I'm upgrading from a 1070. Can't wait.


----------



## crazyxelite

Hi I got the normal version here a pic inside my fractal nano s nearly no space. I locked the card fan at 65 power slider at 150, it boost to around 1900 temps reached 86c and bad coil wine worse than palit and evga.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyxelite*
> 
> Hi I got the normal version here a pic inside my fractal nano s nearly no space. I locked the card fan at 65 power slider at 150, it boost to around 1900 temps reached 86c and bad coil wine worse than palit and evga.


This card needs space and airflow. Got the normal version here. BIOS F4, power limit to max (150%/375W), fan curve like this:



Core curve set like this:



Centurion 590 CoolerMaster case, free space between front fans and card, 2x Scythe 140mm fans in front, 2x 120mm fans on top and one rear.

Temperatures no higher then 55 Celsius when gaming, core mostly stays at 2075 MHz, sometimes drops to 2063 MHz, memory set at 11954 MHz and keeps at it.

EDIT: MAYBE!...
...You have not enough space and air flow for a card like this.

EDIT 2:
Interesting point made, you can have a beautiful case....


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daFtClock*
> 
> What is the general consensus on repasting these cards with liquid metal or other better quality TIMs? Are people finding it worth it? If I am using an aggressive overclock I can sometimes go above 80 deg which is quite high but this is only while experimenting. My current OC and (aggressive) fan curve have me sitting around 70 deg.


repaste is a definite must but your mileage may vary. People with totally crap factory jobs will get up to 15C like me while people with good factory jobs might only get 2C.
I used Liquid metal while on air, only do it if you are totally prepared to lose your card and for the thrill. I would not recommend it, its extremely dangerous, there is a ton of prep work (e.g. applying nail hardener resin to ALL of the capacitors around the die, around ALL of the VRAM BGA legs, ALL of the GPU die BGA legs, ALL of the SMD components within 3cm of the die). This is because your biggest danger with LM is not when it is in place, but the micro-drips on insertion/removal and vibrations. The benefit is maybe only 1-2C depending on how good the HSF mounting is.

I recommend Kryonaut for regular use, its non-conductive and is within 2C of the Liquid metal minus the risks. This is what I repasted with after I placed my water block.

How to I know the dangers of LM? there already has been 1 confirmed GTX 1080ti death on the main thread due to spillage. He only accidentally dripped a tiny blob that seeped under the core BGA. I myself spilled some drops on my card on placement and removal of the stock HSF too, mine actually crawled under the VRAM BGA pins. Thankfully, I applied massive directional blasts of air within seconds of it happening so I was able to walk away with no problems. I got lucky.


----------



## crazyxelite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> This card needs space and airflow. Got the normal version here. BIOS F4, power limit to max (150%/375W), fan curve like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Core curve set like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Centurion 590 CoolerMaster case, free space between front fans and card, 2x Scythe 140mm fans in front, 2x 120mm fans on top and one rear.
> 
> Temperatures no higher then 55 Celsius when gaming, core mostly stays at 2075 MHz, sometimes drops to 2063 MHz, memory set at 11954 MHz and keeps at it.
> 
> EDIT: MAYBE!...
> ...You have not enough space and air flow for a card like this.
> 
> EDIT 2:
> Interesting point made, you can have a beautiful case....


I'm sure i have good airflow small case 2 140mm front two 120mm noctua f12 top 1 120mm on the back and there's another 120mm blowing directly to the card. I had evga and palit jetstream monster card and it wouldn't brake 75c this Tim is really bad I guess


----------



## DeadpoolUK

Thought you guys might appreciate this information, be very very careful when doing an RMA, if you have to, because if you have watercooled your 1080ti, or even opened the cooler for cleaning e.t.c, you have completely invalidated any warranty,

I know a lot of you think its fine to remove the cooler because there are no stickers, but I e-mailed them to check for myself and got this confirmation that its not fine at all from them.

Sorry to be the harbinger of bad news, but I signed up to this site just because I got some information from this forum when choosing my Aorus, so I figured I'd try and help somebody out by warning them about this before they slip up and tell gigabyte they removed the cooler e.t.c.


----------



## daFtClock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> repaste is a definite must but your mileage may vary. People with totally crap factory jobs will get up to 15C like me while people with good factory jobs might only get 2C.
> I used Liquid metal while on air, only do it if you are totally prepared to lose your card and for the thrill. I would not recommend it, its extremely dangerous, there is a ton of prep work (e.g. applying nail hardener resin to ALL of the capacitors around the die, around ALL of the VRAM BGA legs, ALL of the GPU die BGA legs, ALL of the SMD components within 3cm of the die). This is because your biggest danger with LM is not when it is in place, but the micro-drips on insertion/removal and vibrations. The benefit is maybe only 1-2C depending on how good the HSF mounting is.
> 
> I recommend Kryonaut for regular use, its non-conductive and is within 2C of the Liquid metal minus the risks. This is what I repasted with after I placed my water block.
> 
> How to I know the dangers of LM? there already has been 1 confirmed GTX 1080ti death on the main thread due to spillage. He only accidentally dripped a tiny blob that seeped under the core BGA. I myself spilled some drops on my card on placement and removal of the stock HSF too, mine actually crawled under the VRAM BGA pins. Thankfully, I applied massive directional blasts of air within seconds of it happening so I was able to walk away with no problems. I got lucky.


Thanks for the tips. I think I would go the Kyronaut route. LM seems a little too risky for my liking. You said you saw a 15 deg improvement. What kind of temps were you getting before reapplying?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *daFtClock*
> 
> Thanks for the tips. I think I would go the Kyronaut route. LM seems a little too risky for my liking. You said you saw a 15 deg improvement. What kind of temps were you getting before reapplying?


Around 70-75C at max fan speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadpoolUK*
> 
> 
> 
> Thought you guys might appreciate this information, be very very careful when doing an RMA, if you have to, because if you have watercooled your 1080ti, or even opened the cooler for cleaning e.t.c, you have completely invalidated any warranty,
> 
> I know a lot of you think its fine to remove the cooler because there are no stickers, but I e-mailed them to check for myself and got this confirmation that its not fine at all from them.
> 
> Sorry to be the harbinger of bad news, but I signed up to this site just because I got some information from this forum when choosing my Aorus, so I figured I'd try and help somebody out by warning them about this before they slip up and tell gigabyte they removed the cooler e.t.c.


Yes but they also can't stop me. In my country, the consumer is entitled to remove the cooler and inspect the parts underneath. The manufacturer must prove that intentional modifications were done by the consumer if they wish to deny an RMA.


----------



## DeadpoolUK

That's a good thing. I suppose even if you water cooled it and then put the cooler back and they could see that the paste had been changed or that the screws were scratched from the tools used to remove them you can always say you were instructing the components underneath the cooler and deny cooling it.

I was just going to play dumb if I ever have to rma mine, say it was like that when it arrived and I haven't touched it.

I'll have to check if that's a UK law too so I can use that instead if I have to. Hopefully I'll never need to but it's worth finding out just in case I suppose.


----------



## DisposableHero7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadpoolUK*
> 
> 
> 
> Thought you guys might appreciate this information, be very very careful when doing an RMA, if you have to, because if you have watercooled your 1080ti, or even opened the cooler for cleaning e.t.c, you have completely invalidated any warranty,
> 
> I know a lot of you think its fine to remove the cooler because there are no stickers, but I e-mailed them to check for myself and got this confirmation that its not fine at all from them.
> 
> Sorry to be the harbinger of bad news, but I signed up to this site just because I got some information from this forum when choosing my Aorus, so I figured I'd try and help somebody out by warning them about this before they slip up and tell gigabyte they removed the cooler e.t.c.


Thats quite an interesting answer from Gigabyte, when in late 2016, an official Gigabyte spokesman responded the exact opposite when interviewed by german "Gamestar" magazin. They contacted several graficscards manufacturers back than and the answer by Gigabyte was that exchanging the stock cooler was absolutly fine as long as you install a cooler that is at least as good as the original one and you dont damage the card in the process. Maybe gigabyte handles this different in different countries ... but quite disappointing for you :/

I'd probably kindly re-ask the CS-staff that answered you how it comes than that Gigabyte was actually working WITH EKWB to design their waterblock and HOW it is that EKWB is even officialy allowed to feature the copyrighted AORUS name and logo on its waterblock. I call the answer they gave you BS, but hey, just don't tell them, in the end, you might have to settle this in court, which always the richer side wins









(However, going the route and supporting an afterpart manufacturer in designing a cooler for their card, even allowing them to feature the brand name on it, but then denying warranty when using that part is borderline practicing fraud on customers!)


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DisposableHero7*
> 
> Thats quite an interesting answer from Gigabyte, when in late 2016, an official Gigabyte spokesman responded the exact opposite when interviewed by german "Gamestar" magazin. They contacted several graficscards manufacturers back than and the answer by Gigabyte was that exchanging the stock cooler was absolutly fine as long as you install a cooler that is at least as good as the original one and you dont damage the card in the process. Maybe gigabyte handles this different in different countries ... but quite disappointing for you :/
> 
> I'd probably kindly re-ask the CS-staff that answered you how it comes than that Gigabyte was actually working WITH EKWB to design their waterblock and HOW it is that EKWB is even officialy allowed to feature the copyrighted AORUS name and logo on its waterblock. I call the answer they gave you BS, but hey, just don't tell them, in the end, you might have to settle this in court, which always the richer side wins
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (However, going the route and supporting an afterpart manufacturer in designing a cooler for their card, even allowing them to feature the brand name on it, but then denying warranty when using that part is borderline practicing fraud on customers!)


I think the term is plausible deniability. The company needs to have an "official stance" that is defensible against the masses of idiots who don't know what they're doing. They figure that if you can tear-down and place a waterblock without too much obvious damage to your card, you probably know what you're doing and thus will honour your RMA. The problem is if they announce that they're cool with people removing their stock HSFs, you'd get a barrage of RMAs from idiots ripping out their fan cables, Liquid metal spills, knocked out SMDs etc etc flooding their returns Dept.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> I'm sure i have good airflow small case 2 140mm front two 120mm noctua f12 top 1 120mm on the back and there's another 120mm blowing directly to the card. I had evga and palit jetstream monster card and it wouldn't brake 75c this Tim is really bad I guess


Then why do I play at 55 Celsius @2075 MHz and you on 86 Celsius? Are you using the AORUS software, or Afterburner?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I think the term is plausible deniability. The company needs to have an "official stance" that is defensible against the masses of idiots who don't know what they're doing. They figure that if you can tear-down and place a waterblock without too much obvious damage to your card, you probably know what you're doing and thus will honour your RMA. The problem is if they announce that they're cool with people removing their stock HSFs, you'd get a barrage of RMAs from idiots ripping out their fan cables, Liquid metal spills, knocked out SMDs etc etc flooding their returns Dept.


I also received a denying answer when asking about dismantling the cooling. And I also think they want to be protected from idiots this way.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> If you can would you mind checking if unigine crashed in OC mode but with it set to either directx9 or openGL?


Yup, no differences


----------



## akajay

Is the Xtreme version really a overclocking DUD? I really hope not as I just purchased one from newegg.

If it is a DUD it really sucks because two hours later the regular version went in stock and they wont let me change my order.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akajay*
> 
> Is the Xtreme version really a overclocking DUD? I really hope not as I just purchased one from newegg.
> 
> If it is a DUD it really sucks because two hours later the regular version went in stock and they wont let me change my order.


Total silicon lottery...I honestly don't know if there is any differences between the capabilities of the two once you reflash the Bios


----------



## Douse

Hey all,

Been a while









Has anyone tried the latest version of the Aorus software recently? I am currently mining 24/7 and wanted to turn off my LEDs, so I thought I would give it another chance.

It looks completely different and actually did what it was meant to do. Albeit it still looks crappy. They really need to use higher res icons..... Either way I could actually modify my LED settings without hiccup.

Obviously, I would still recommend using MSI Afterburner for overclocking, but if you want to tweak your LEDs I would actually recommend it now.

It has even applied the settings properly so I don't need the software running for my settings to apply on reboot. YAY!


----------



## Tsahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reflex75*
> 
> I have incompatibility issue between Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti Xtreme and Motherboard Asus Maximus VIII Extreme: graphic card not detected.
> My reseller sent me a replacement but still the same problem (motherboard can't detect this GPU)
> I've updated my BIOS and tried all the PCI slots, still nothing.
> Someone else with the same problem:
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/6f26ao/gigabyte_1080_ti_not_found_by_asus_motherboard/
> Crazy to see such hardware incompatibility between premium products...


try going into your mobo bios, check if pci-e mode is set to auto or anything else than gen 3. If so, try setting it manually to gen 3.if still not detected, try experim eating with the modes and c which 1 make any difference. Ideally u will want gen 3 as its the fastest.


----------



## crazyxelite

That's it gonna return my third 1080 ti, gonna get the ftw3 and think I'm gonna stop there. Gigabyte is too hot for me


----------



## smithsrt8

If it means anything the temp different between the gigabyte and the FTW3 (as I have both, although the Aorus is now on water and I am just waiting for the waterblock for the FTW3 which is here on Thursday) is about 15c....The hottest I saw my gigabyte get to was about 78-80c...my FTW which is still on air has got to about 64c...although I was running the Aorus by itself and I have been running the FTW3 in SLI with the Aorus but that gives you a real world idea...


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akajay*
> 
> Is the Xtreme version really a overclocking DUD? I really hope not as I just purchased one from newegg.
> 
> If it is a DUD it really sucks because two hours later the regular version went in stock and they wont let me change my order.


Yeah, i don't think you can say with certainty that it will be a dud. I have an Xtreme and it is amazing. Granted, I have done a repaste however it was performing exceptionally well prior to that as well. Just runs cooler now and holds 2100 Mhz better.


----------



## reflex75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tsahi*
> 
> try going into your mobo bios, check if pci-e mode is set to auto or anything else than gen 3. If so, try setting it manually to gen 3.if still not detected, try experim eating with the modes and c which 1 make any difference. Ideally u will want gen 3 as its the fastest.


Thanks for the tips but I've tried all the pci slots, different settings in the bios, clear all to default, update to the latest version but nothing works.
It really must be an incompatibility issue because I have tried with 2 different Aorus 1080ti samples and both are not detected.
And I have perfectly tested almost every brand of 1080ti with my system (FE, MSI, Asus, Zotac...) and Gigabyte is the only one with this issue. And as I said before I'm not the only one having this issue with the same motherboard.
Gigabyte support replied it was probably due to my faulty psu which is a brand new Seasonic Prime 750w (12y warranty).
They are amateurs...
I dare anyone to prove me I'm wrong trying this combination of gpu and motherboard!


----------



## Dasboogieman

The ArcticStorm BIOS is beyond godlike for my 1080ti Aorus


----------



## smithsrt8

good lord that is impressive! I may have to try that...what mhz are you running at? do you have a shot of your MSI AB?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> good lord that is impressive! I may have to try that...what mhz are you running at? do you have a shot of your MSI AB?


2113mhz, @ 1.093V, +850 VRAM. Umm for the curve, I just put 2113mhz @ 1.093 then for the 5 bins below it I reduced the clocks by 13mhz incrementally.


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> 2113mhz, @ 1.093V, +850 VRAM. Umm for the curve, I just put 2113mhz @ 1.093 then for the 5 bins below it I reduced the clocks by 13mhz incrementally.


I will have to try this...I have tried multiple other curves and my Aorus overclocks like garbage...the best I have gotten is about 2052 but it is stable through some benchmarks but not others...my EVGA FTW3 seems to want to keep going though...I have gotten that one to clock to almost 2100...since I am bound to the lower one I am running at 2037


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> I will have to try this...I have tried multiple other curves and my Aorus overclocks like garbage...the best I have gotten is about 2052 but it is stable through some benchmarks but not others...my EVGA FTW3 seems to want to keep going though...I have gotten that one to clock to almost 2100...since I am bound to the lower one I am running at 2037


Its all in the cooling. My Aorus was pure garbage on air as well, used to top out at 2037Mhz and would crash if temps got above 65C.

Ever since I watercooled this down to 30-35C, the 2100mhz + bins are now stable.

I suspect the main advantage of well binned cards is they are 2088mhz->2100mhz stable on air and higher temps. Under water, with <40C temps, about 80% of cards will fall in to the 2100-2126mhz range with the worst models topping out at 2088mhz.


----------



## smithsrt8

I am on water (with my Aorus) and still couldn't get it to clock like that...it failed over 2055 every time under water


----------



## Tsahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reflex75*
> 
> Thanks for the tips but I've tried all the pci slots, different settings in the bios, clear all to default, update to the latest version but nothing works.
> It really must be an incompatibility issue because I have tried with 2 different Aorus 1080ti samples and both are not detected.
> And I have perfectly tested almost every brand of 1080ti with my system (FE, MSI, Asus, Zotac...) and Gigabyte is the only one with this issue. And as I said before I'm not the only one having this issue with the same motherboard.
> Gigabyte support replied it was probably due to my faulty psu which is a brand new Seasonic Prime 750w (12y warranty).
> They are amateurs...
> I dare anyone to prove me I'm wrong trying this combination of gpu and motherboard!


some moboes require an extra HDD power connector pluged streight into the mobo for extra power( HDD power connector) to power up SLI or a very power hungry card. check to c if yours is 1 of these.
my gigabyte z170 UD5-th needs it and i got a sata power connector going right into my mobo.
are u connecting all the required power connectors to your mobo, including 2 (4 pin + 6 pin) on top for cpu?
here is a diagram of your mobo. look at the bottom left. there is molex power connector (called EZ-PLUG). is it occupied with the required molex?
yor manual states that the c will become unstable or not boot at all if the power is inadequate due to SLI or a power hungry beast sitting on it








"


----------



## murenitu

Well people, in the end I already have the pc mounted! 1080ti sli xtreme edition aorus with rl Ekwb, radiator 360x60

Also modify the NZXT H440 chassis and I put the coldzero pierced front. I put a few pictures to see what you think.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Its all in the cooling. My Aorus was pure garbage on air as well, used to top out at 2037Mhz and would crash if temps got above 65C.
> 
> Ever since I watercooled this down to 30-35C, the 2100mhz + bins are now stable.
> 
> I suspect the main advantage of well binned cards is they are 2088mhz->2100mhz stable on air and higher temps. Under water, with <40C temps, about 80% of cards will fall in to the 2100-2126mhz range with the worst models topping out at 2088mhz.


I am lucky here, non-Xtreme version, 2075 MHz /11954 RAM. I set the voltage curve to 2075 MHz starting from 1.062V. On stock air cooling, full stable whole day on a custom fan curve. The card runs 55 Celsius highest in games in my case. Well vented, not too loud.


----------



## smithsrt8

Looks great...great job!


----------



## murenitu

By the way comment because it is seen by some other forum if you can keep the blackplate oem in the case of aorus, and if you are a little handy if, if you can.


----------



## Dasboogieman

OK update on the ArcticStorm BIOS (on my Aorus). Voltage regulation seems to have gone to crap. At least I think thats what it is because 2100mhz is now no longer stable (i.e. 12hrs of Witcher 3 4K), 2088 seems OK for the time being.
Two theories
1. Vdroop is ridiculous for the Arcticstorm BIOS which in turn is not entirely compatible with the Aorus VRMs which run faster and tighter
2. Gigabyte's BIOS was lying, when it says 2100mhz in the GPUz, internally it was something else entirely.

The ArcticStorm still outperforms the Gigabyte's BIOS by a significant margin. I'm keeping an eye on the VRMs because the inductors are now starting to whine. Which means more current is being pulled through the assembly. Theoretically, both Zotac and Gigtabyte should have similar MOSFET switching frequency so the regulation should be similar.

Finally, my power readings are waaaay off. I just realised Gigabyte factory shunt modded their cards, the shunts are all 002, so this could be what is spoofing the power limit. Because the other BIOSes are unaware of this, the power reading is super inaccurate.

EDIT: OK so adjusting for gigabyte's factory 002 shunts, my power draw in the Witcher 3 is 407W so this thing definitely works.

EDIT: turns out Gigabyte's BIOS has the ridiculous Vdroop, the Aorus cards are actually boosting 1 bin below the max 1.093v because 2088mhz on the ArcticStorm=2100mhz on the Aorus.

TLDR: Gigabyte's BIOS is lying to you, the max voltage for the Aorus on stock bios is 1.081v, treat everything as 1 bin lower due to Vdroop.


----------



## TheoDouk

Hey i flashed the bios to the arctic storm too. Stable on 2088 but goes down due to heat. Did you have to change anything for the power limit?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheoDouk*
> 
> Hey i flashed the bios to the arctic storm too. Stable on 2088 but goes down due to heat. Did you have to change anything for the power limit?


Nope, max out all sliders, max fan speed too if you're not on water.

Other than that, you can try the NVSMI trick if it still doesn't work.


----------



## smithsrt8

I tried the arcticstorm bios...It capped my sliders (I didnt do the no power limit mod) @ 120% and I couldn't get stable over 2055 (same problem as before) so I reflashed using the XOC (Asus Bios) I now have no power limit...it boosts up to 1.15v and I am getting 2088 stable....I am under water on my Aorus and my EVGA will be underwater after the block arrives after this weekend...is this safe to run with that much voltage?


----------



## murenitu

I would not risk putting so much tension in this architecture, it is frankly susceptible to any change and work with much less tension than other older architectures. Even though they have the water, it is rather by own design of the components, if they are thinking to work at X nominal voltage rise "so much" although the chip this cool is not good for all the final components behind. Resistors, coils, capacitors ..

I think that the most Indian and healthy would be to work on the bios oem of the Aorus and squeeze the maximum of that of the original bios. It's just an opinion.

In addition, there was a lot of talk about this and there was practically no difference in going to 2000 or 2088. The gain was ridiculous.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> I tried the arcticstorm bios...It capped my sliders (I didnt do the no power limit mod) @ 120% and I couldn't get stable over 2055 (same problem as before) so I reflashed using the XOC (Asus Bios) I now have no power limit...it boosts up to 1.15v and I am getting 2088 stable....I am under water on my Aorus and my EVGA will be underwater after the block arrives after this weekend...is this safe to run with that much voltage?


Those clockspeeds are not comparable. You need to check the performance of the clockspeed.

2088mhz means something very different on the Aorus, ArticStorm and XOC.

On mine, the 2088mhz Articstorm clock outperforms the 2113mhz clock on my Aorus which outperforms the 2188mhz bin on XOC.

GP102 has an internal power control unit. The clockspeed the BIOS reports is not entirely true to the performance the GPU is operating at internally.

This is telling me all the BIOSes at the very least have different LLC settings (which makes sense considering the VRMs are different). I suspect the reason you are crashing on the 2055mhz on Arctic storm is because the AS BIOS has less LLC than the Aorus. What this means is the Aorus reports the higher clock 2088mhz+ but internally your chip is actually running closer to 2037-2050mhz due to LLC. This means I'm willing to bet your performance at 2037mhz on Arctic storm is similar or slightly better than your max Aorus clock.

The XOC BIOS is a complete crapshoot outside of being used on the Strix cards. Nobody knows what the card is actually operating at or what its boosting to.


----------



## murenitu

The voltage scales vs mhz will be different for other brands so it is possible that the aorus at 1.050 runs at 2000mhz and a strix at 1,050 at best to 1988! I very much doubt that the mhz report this mail on any soft monitoring.


----------



## smithsrt8

I have noticed that about the volts to speed...but I have also noticed when you flash lets say the arcticstorm bios on an Aorus 1080ti it changes the base/boost clocks as well to whatever card you are flashing them to...so I noticed that +50 on an Aorus is closer to +150 on arcticstorm...the volts they achieve said clocks are also all over the map...in order for me to hit 2055 I need to be at least 1093 on just about any BIOS except Aorus 1080ti which can hit it at a lower volt range...


----------



## avioni

guys. "smithsrt8 and Dasboogieman" what is the point in doing the bios flash from another gpu? isnt the AORUS already the highest scoring among them all when overclocked?


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avioni*
> 
> guys. "smithsrt8 and Dasboogieman" what is the point in doing the bios flash from another gpu? isnt the AORUS already the highest scoring among them all when overclocked?


Stability at certain clock speeds can be achieved with "easier" with other BIOS...some BIOS's (hmmmm...what would the plural of BIOS be?) remove power caps also allowing higher boost clocks to achieve stability that would normally not be able to hit with the factory BIOS


----------



## Douse

Can i just say, you guys are nuts


----------



## ttnuagmada

Question; Is there any physical difference between the Aurus and Aurus Xtreme as far as the PCB/power limits etc?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avioni*
> 
> guys. "smithsrt8 and Dasboogieman" what is the point in doing the bios flash from another gpu? isnt the AORUS already the highest scoring among them all when overclocked?


You won't believe this but 375W is still power limiting in certain caes (e.g. 4k gaming). I'm doing it because I like pushing the limits, this is OCN after all.

The ArticStorm BIOS has real legitimate benefits for us Aorus, but I'd very much consider it a Beta, there are a lot of unknowns about this so I can't recommend everybody do it en-masse yet. e.g. I have no idea what its doing to my VRMs. I'm getting coil whine now but my theory is its the extra current going through.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> Question; Is there any physical difference between the Aurus and Aurus Xtreme as far as the PCB/power limits etc?


nope they're exactly the same.

In fact, I don't know if Gigabyte finally resolved the bad batch of Xtremes yet. Initially on launch, the xtremes all had terrible ASIC quality, they were so bad they were crashing at stock clocks. All the standard Aorus cards were overclocking fantastic so we suspect there was a binning mixup.


----------



## Douse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> In fact, I don't know if Gigabyte finally resolved the bad batch of Xtremes yet. Initially on launch, the xtremes all had terrible ASIC quality, they were so bad they were crashing at stock clocks. All the standard Aorus cards were overclocking fantastic so we suspect there was a binning mixup.


I am curious as well. Got a mate building a water cooled rig and I cant decide if I should recommend the Xtreme or the regular


----------



## ttnuagmada

The reason I asked is that I had to wait 2 days on newegg to buy a 2nd Aorus, and I accidentally bought an Xtreme for the 2nd one. So i have a regular and an Xtreme coming. Both are gonna go under water. I'll eventually be able to report if there's a difference, it may be a few weeks though.

I originally had 2 MSI Armor OC's, thinking that EK was going to come out with full covers (because their website said so), but they only came out with the block and no backplate, so i bought 2 Aorus'. I'll ebay the Armors, or maybe throw one in my HTPC.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Douse*
> 
> I am curious as well. Got a mate building a water cooled rig and I cant decide if I should recommend the Xtreme or the regular


Get the Extreme, only if your friend's shop can guarantee its a late model one, i.e. not manufactured as part of the first batch. Otherwise, the Normal Aorus is safer.

If he is watercooling, I recommend he first get the card, regardless of model, and test it on air to see what the base boost is and if its stable before putting the waterblock on. The Aorus cooler takes a long time to assemble and re-assemble.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Get the Extreme, only if your friend's shop can guarantee its a late model one, i.e. not manufactured as part of the first batch. Otherwise, the Normal Aorus is safer.
> 
> If he is watercooling, I recommend he first get the card, regardless of model, and test it on air to see what the base boost is and if its stable before putting the waterblock on. The Aorus cooler takes a long time to assemble and re-assemble.


its actually 7 screws to remove the cooler (4 hold the gpu and 3 smaller ones at about where the vrm's are) . then some additional screws if you want to remove the backplate. and i agree, your friend should definitely test it before going forward just in case.


----------



## murenitu

I hang a video of the temperatures, say that the sli is disabled. And the game to all to the maximum without any option to put.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *murenitu*
> 
> I hang a video of the temperatures, say that the sli is disabled. And the game to all to the maximum without any option to put.


buena muy buena maquina!


----------



## UdoG

MSI Afterburner 4.4.0 Beta 12

https://www.guru3d.com/files-details/msi-afterburner-beta-download.html

- Added labels for OSD graphs

- Changed default hardware monitoring graphs order. GPU related graphs have been reodered a bit in order to provide more convenient layout on multi-GPU systems. "Framerate" and "Frametime" graphs have been moved to the bottom of the list

- Now you may hold key when clicking a checkmark next to a graph name in the list of active hardware monitoring graphs to enable or disable all graphs at once

- Graph colors and text size tags are now defined by OSD layout and can be customized there if necessary

RTSS 7.0.0 beta 26 is included in distributive:

- New reusable Vulkan vertex buffer implementation no longer limits the On-Screen Display geometry by 16K vertices
- Fixed vertex buffer overflow in Direct3D8 and Direct3D9 raster 3D On-Screen Display rendering implementations causing the text to disappear when trying to display around 700 or more characters


----------



## cantfind

Asus z270 Prime A seems to not recognize my card..

I'm able to use it, but the BIOS screen of the PCIe shows as if no GPU is detected, and the link speed is set to x2 instead of x16..

Tried forcing it to use gen3 instead of auto, tried with\without XMP... Still nothing.

Asus support wanted me to take pictures and send them...


----------



## TheNoseKnows

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I cannibalised an old Palit Twin Fan GTX 570 heatsink. Now the core backplate + VRAM gets solid copper block cooling. Temps now hold steady at 60 degrees when running Supo 8K. Everything else doesn't break 55 degrees. Basically an additional 10 degree improvement on the Intel HSF mod.
> 
> I'm taking delivery of a dead Quadro Single slot GPU in a few weeks, cant wait to see this thing with a sexy blower on top.


Do you make the fan blow air on or away from the backplate?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheNoseKnows*
> 
> Do you make the fan blow air on or away from the backplate?


Blow air in to the backplate


----------



## lowmotion

Got my 2nd Gigabyte Aorus Xtreme. Coil whining went to nirvana after switching PSU+Mainboard.

Now this hot piece of hardware boosts at 2037,5 Mhz and reaches 1987 Mhz after a few minutes. Its about 50mhz better than my last card, a non-xtreme one. How do i read ASIC?

Where do i find this aio backplate mod?


----------



## cantfind

Anyone has this card installed with an Asus z270 Prime A?

My motherboard seems to be in denial - it shows there is no VGA card in the PCIe slot in the BIOS screen, even though it displays through that card, and even lets me chose it or the iGPU on another screen.

This results in the cards on getting x2 link width out of the possible x16...

I wonder if it's a faulty motherboard or a result of the 2 pieces of hardware not talking well to each other.


----------



## Alvarez

Got a quick question.

I'm collecting a rig for my friend and he wants to go with 2x1080ti s.

I told him that Sli in lately is irrelevant since most of the games don't either support it or the gain is simply not enough for the headache. Is it still the same case with 1080ti ?

Sli is useless nowadays ? Or is it still beneficial for multiple screen or 1080+ configurations (2k, 4k so on)


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Got a quick question.
> 
> I'm collecting a rig for my friend and he wants to go with 2x1080ti s.
> 
> I told him that Sli in lately is irrelevant since most of the games don't either support it or the gain is simply not enough for the headache. Is it still the same case with 1080ti ?
> 
> Sli is useless nowadays ? Or is it still beneficial for multiple screen or 1080+ configurations (2k, 4k so on)


I think if you're someone who will do good with sli then you should also be building your own rig. Sli is for someone who likes to get their hands dirty with tech.

I picture you ended up with a lot of calls if you build an sli system from your friend. I wouldn't do it.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvarez*
> 
> Got a quick question.
> 
> I'm collecting a rig for my friend and he wants to go with 2x1080ti s.
> 
> I told him that Sli in lately is irrelevant since most of the games don't either support it or the gain is simply not enough for the headache. Is it still the same case with 1080ti ?
> 
> Sli is useless nowadays ? Or is it still beneficial for multiple screen or 1080+ configurations (2k, 4k so on)


I've done SLI and Crossfire in the past. It really isn't worth it. Even back when I had dual AMD 290s which was arguably the golden age of dual GPUs (NVIDIA + AMD were racing to leapfrog each other back then to be able to do 4K) support for games was extremely bad. Not only that, you had to deal with the massive power, heat and spotty performance. I noticed myself using single card well over 75% of the time because there were just too many issues with running in dual mode.

In the end, the more prudent decision was to ditch dual GPUs are go for the single best GPU possible.


----------



## avioni

oh my the 2 new AORUS water cooled models look sick!!! one full block the other like an AIO https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-W-11GD#kf


----------



## UdoG

I'm finished today my Aorus Waterblock WB SLI Setup. Pictures will following soon...
The Waterblock WB edition looks great - 2088 MHz game stable and 2100 MHz is possible too, but I need more tests.

Update:


----------



## gpvecchi

Weeeeeeee! I found the causes of ingame crashes! Temperatures!
Leaving all at default (fan, clock, voltage, etc.) temperature ramps up to 78° and I have crashes. With 100% fan GPU stays at 61°.
Now, the case is a Corsair 750D Airflow, I assume I have enough air. What can I do? Check the thermal paste? RMA?
Thanks!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Weeeeeeee! I found the causes of ingame crashes! Temperatures!
> Leaving all at default (fan, clock, voltage, etc.) temperature ramps up to 78° and I have crashes. With 100% fan GPU stays at 61°.
> Now, the case is a Corsair 750D Airflow, I assume I have enough air. What can I do? Check the thermal paste? RMA?
> Thanks!


that is normal behaviour for FinFet chips. Most GP102 chips crash at clocks north of 2000mhz if the temps are 70C+

The converse is also true, <40C usually allows clocks from 2075-2100mhz+


----------



## gpvecchi

OK, thanks, but I think that stock fan curve should prevent overheating...


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> OK, thanks, but I think that stock fan curve should prevent overheating...


it shouldn't crash under normal load period. I would RAM that. You could probably repaste and use a higher fan curve but even the founders can hit 83 and not crash. My bad overclocking founders that couldn't hit 1974 would never crash stock.

side question. why doesn't nvidia just advertise these as 1900mhz cards, why bother with boost 3.0?


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UdoG*
> 
> I'm finished today my Aorus Waterblock WB SLI Setup. Pictures will following soon...
> The Waterblock WB edition looks great - 2088 MHz game stable and 2100 MHz is possible too, but I need more tests.
> 
> Update:


WHAT!!! those blocks? where to get from? looks sweet!!!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> it shouldn't crash under normal load period. I would RAM that. You could probably repaste and use a higher fan curve but even the founders can hit 83 and not crash. My bad overclocking founders that couldn't hit 1974 would never crash stock.
> 
> side question. why doesn't nvidia just advertise these as 1900mhz cards, why bother with boost 3.0?


Because of the 980ti. NVIDIA was fully aware of how good the 980ti was when it came to overclocking, they knew how good their architecture was at it but the thing with high clockspeeds, is its sort of never guaranteed, even if the card was designed for it. Pascal is simply the 980ti but with internal bottlenecks removed so it can overclock higher. So the solution? introduce Turbo 3.0 which auto overclocks every card out of the box to near its limit (though marketing never mentions the card being able to go above 1600/1700mhz or so). This way, NVIDIA gets to have its pie and eat it too, they get to utilise the fantastic headroom inherent to their design (which tbh, the 980ti is still competitive today with the 1070/1080) AND they don't have to deal with pesky customers complaining their cards didn't reach "advertised" speeds.


----------



## UdoG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avioni*
> 
> WHAT!!! those blocks? where to get from? looks sweet!!!


DriveCity (german shop)

It seems that the blocks are currently not available or fu..ing expensive.


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Anyone else find it really annoying when the fans on this comes out of their passive/stopped mode?

For whatever reason they didn't put any slow ramping thing on the fans, so as soon as the fans go from 0% to 25% they get really loud for a second then shut up again. Is there anything you can do about it?


----------



## V5-aps

Phanteks have released their water block for the Aorus 1080Ti's....Works with the original RGB back plate too.
Been waiting for this one !

http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080TiGB2.html


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Phanteks have released their water block for the Aorus 1080Ti's....Works with the original RGB back plate too.
> Been waiting for this one !
> 
> http://www.phanteks.com/PH-GB1080TiGB2.html


That looks like a damn good block. Should be similar in perfromance to the EK one but I don't think being able to use the stock backplate is a plus as fat as performance goes. The stock backplace is significantly worse in terms of thermal transfer and stiffness.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> That looks like a damn good block. Should be similar in perfromance to the EK one but I don't think being able to use the stock backplate is a plus as fat as performance goes. The stock backplace is significantly worse in terms of thermal transfer and stiffness.


Agreed. Keeping the original back plate is for aesthetics only. I wonder how the factory Aorus waterblock cards are for temps?


----------



## URGaming

I'm planning on adding the upcoming Aorus waterforce (AIO) to my build in the fractal design nano S. The competition is in between the EVGA SC2, and the MSI/corsair offering for AIO, but I'm tempted.

With this model I'm concerned about the size of the card and in particular customer reviews I've trying to compare. Any thoughts on that in particular? specially from those who owns this card, even though it might not be water cooled.


----------



## clarifiante

yo my fellow owners. i use MSI afterbuner to OC my cards at the moment. however i´d like to play around with the RGB controls. for obvious reasons, the cards don´t sync with AURA (i have an asus mobo). is there a way to disable the OC features of the AORUS software to circumvent any stability issues and only use the software to control RGB?


----------



## UdoG

What I have done: I installed the Gigabyte software, select the color / RGB control and deinstalled the software.
It seems that the new settings are stored internally because the settings are still active after reboot / new installation of windows


----------



## akajay

Got my card and EK waterblock, I believe I got a new revision or something because the bios was already updated to F4.

The only problem I have is like the other 2 users with the xtreme edition and ek blocks, one row of the VRM is high as hell and it makes the card bend like crazy as I already have .5mm pads on it.

Luckily I purchased a backplate as well so this eased up the bend but without it its crazy.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akajay*
> 
> Got my card and EK waterblock, I believe I got a new revision or something because the bios was already updated to F4.
> 
> The only problem I have is like the other 2 users with the xtreme edition and ek blocks, one row of the VRM is high as hell and it makes the card bend like crazy as I already have .5mm pads on it.
> 
> Luckily I purchased a backplate as well so this eased up the bend but without it its crazy.


How bad is the bend? I have the xtreme card and same water block with back plate. I haven't checked it yet.


----------



## UdoG

Problem solved


----------



## akajay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lsantana954*
> 
> How bad is the bend? I have the xtreme card and same water block with back plate. I haven't checked it yet.


Pretty bad, it is caused by the last row of raised VRM's. If I remove the .5mm thermal pad the card probably wouldn't bend because right now its squished, but I don't know how risky it is to bare contact the VRM to a block.

When I was test fitting the block with thermal pads the right side of the block was raised like something was in the way. Which was the VRM.

If you did not notice a bend when you mounted your block you probably have the original design without the raised VRM's.


----------



## avioni

contact EK about it or get some very thin thermal pads


----------



## yifeng3007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Himura88*
> 
> So i m not even oc the card and it goes to 2050 and i can t play anything my display driver is crashing ! So i installed aorus software just to set to silent mode 1800 mhz and is not crashing but on stock +0 on clock +0 ram no voltage on msi after burner and is crashing in everything ! I use ddu to install drivers etc


This is exactly the issue i'm having right now!
I've just got my Extreme version of the card today and this is what i've experienced as well.
I found this person's post on Google, so i apologize if i'm beating a dead horse here.
I followed all the steps about OC'ing the card and here's what i've gathered so far:
1: The base clock speed is set at 2036 MHz in MSI AFTERBURNER, even though i remember uninstalling the AORUS GRAPHICS ENGINE with the OC setting on (which is supposed to be somewhere around 1750 MHz)
2: GTAV (every possible setting is turned up to max) runs perfectly fine no matter the GPU settings, even when the game is upscaled to 4k via in-game settings (my native resolution is 1920x1080)
3: Killing Floor 2 (every possible setting is turned up to max) is crashing at any GPU settings (even when i turn the clock speeds down to 1600ish MHz)
4: Fallout 4 (every possible setting is turned up to max + a dozen of visual enhancement mods) is crashing at any GPU settings (it does run for a couple of seconds longer than KF2 though)
I really don't want to return the card back to the store, it's been less than a day since i got it. And returning broken hardware is a HUGE pain in the a$$ in Russia.
I'm sorry if my post was too chaotic i just really don't know what i've been doing and i have to do. All i know is that the card works better than my previous 980ti, except it crashes under load in the 2 above mentioned games every 20-30 seconds. I will try to do more tests tomorrow.
Does anyone have a solution or maybe some suggestions?


----------



## kfxsti

Sent my gaming x back and got this little beauty in the mail today . The boost is alot higher on here than it was on the MSI


----------



## smithsrt8

Hmmmm....I will trade you my FTW3 with a brand new EK water block straight across for that bad boy?


----------



## spikeSP

Anyone have RMA experience with Gigabyte? Depending on the price I'm really interested in the fully covered waterforce card coming out tomorrow, but

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/67a4z2/gigabyte_1080ti_fire/
 aren't very reassuring. I think the card looks a lot nicer than the hydrocopper variant at EVGA, but EVGA does have its legendary customer service.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> Hmmmm....I will trade you my FTW3 with a brand new EK water block straight across for that bad boy?


I haven't even gotten to play with it good yet. Just ran firestrike once.lol


----------



## smithsrt8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> I haven't even gotten to play with it good yet. Just ran firestrike once.lol


I am leaving tomorrow for a weeks vacation...that gives you plenty of time to play with it!

Seriously though...if you want to essentially get a free EK water block I will trade you straight across for my FTW3...

The fact that the FTW3 doesnt line up with my Aorus is making my OCD mind freak out! I havent even installed the WB on the FTW3 yet because its bothering me


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *smithsrt8*
> 
> I am leaving tomorrow for a weeks vacation...that gives you plenty of time to play with it!
> 
> Seriously though...if you want to essentially get a free EK water block I will trade you straight across for my FTW3...
> 
> The fact that the FTW3 doesnt line up with my Aorus is making my OCD mind freak out! I havent even installed the WB on the FTW3 yet because its bothering me


I'll pm you here in a bit lol


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yifeng3007*
> 
> This is exactly the issue i'm having right now!
> I've just got my Extreme version of the card today and this is what i've experienced as well.
> I found this person's post on Google, so i apologize if i'm beating a dead horse here.
> I followed all the steps about OC'ing the card and here's what i've gathered so far:
> 1: The base clock speed is set at 2036 MHz in MSI AFTERBURNER, even though i remember uninstalling the AORUS GRAPHICS ENGINE with the OC setting on (which is supposed to be somewhere around 1750 MHz)
> 2: GTAV (every possible setting is turned up to max) runs perfectly fine no matter the GPU settings, even when the game is upscaled to 4k via in-game settings (my native resolution is 1920x1080)
> 3: Killing Floor 2 (every possible setting is turned up to max) is crashing at any GPU settings (even when i turn the clock speeds down to 1600ish MHz)
> 4: Fallout 4 (every possible setting is turned up to max + a dozen of visual enhancement mods) is crashing at any GPU settings (it does run for a couple of seconds longer than KF2 though)
> I really don't want to return the card back to the store, it's been less than a day since i got it. And returning broken hardware is a HUGE pain in the a$$ in Russia.
> I'm sorry if my post was too chaotic i just really don't know what i've been doing and i have to do. All i know is that the card works better than my previous 980ti, except it crashes under load in the 2 above mentioned games every 20-30 seconds. I will try to do more tests tomorrow.
> Does anyone have a solution or maybe some suggestions?


1. Make sure NOT to use the AORUS software
2. Set up an agressive fan curve, again, NOT with AORUS software. Totally uninstall it. I have like this:


In games my card does not go hotter then 56-57 celsius and that is in ultra modded Skyrim SE, which I calle "Skyrim Furmark Edition" on the AMD R9 390 before.
3. The card idles at 33 degrees in my case (summer time 25 celsius and sunny here)/

I get a stable 2075 MHz @ 1.062V, sometimes dropping to 2063 MHz but not below that, BIOS F4,
- power limit, temp limit, voltage all sliders to max in MSI AB 4.4.0.beta 8.

I installed beta 22 and had much worse results, reverted back to beta 8.

What is your idle temperature? Do you have a well wented case? This card is dissipating A LOT of heat INTO the case, needs very good venting.


----------



## gpvecchi

It seems that many of us have crashes because of the temperatures, I have an open ticket, and I’m in contact with a Gigabyte developer via FB to solve the issue


----------



## yifeng3007

Thank you very much for the reply!
I uninstalled all the drivers related to GPU i had on my pc with DDU, uninstalled Afterburner; reinstalled 378.78 driver, GeForce Experience and the AORUS software (just for the sake of it) and it all worked just fine for the last 6 hours in GAMING and SILENT modes (haven't tried the OC mode yet, too scared tbh :0).
I'm gonna try how it all works now on 384.76 driver, uninstall the AORUS software and follow your steps.

My card idles at 49°C, and it is 11°C outside, i haven't checked how hot it gets under load, but thermal throttling doesn't seem to be the issue, i will check. Btw, my previous card, Gigabyte GTX 980Ti G1 Gaming, had about the same idle temps for a year and i never had any overheating issues with it ever.
I think my case well vented enough, but i have the door-panel-thing closed all the time, i might have to remove it, if the card will have some temperature problems.


----------



## c0ld

I had a weird issue I had not had any problems, but my friend was gaming on my pc. When blue dots started to appear randomly, I checked my temps and the card was running at 75C due to some sheets from my bed covering the exhaust of my pc. Cleared those sheets and they went back down to the usual 63-65C it usually runs at the blue dots stopped. 75C is still within range though just find it odd that it would act out ona 75C temp


----------



## Cool Mike

The Aorus (Gigabyte) Xtreme GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce 11GD and the WB version is available at Newegg right now. $819 and $849 respectively.

https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=GIGABYTE+AORUS+Xtreme+GeForce+GTX+1080+Ti+Waterforce+11GD+&N=-1&isNodeId=1


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikeSP*
> 
> Anyone have RMA experience with Gigabyte? Depending on the price I'm really interested in the fully covered waterforce card coming out tomorrow, but
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/67a4z2/gigabyte_1080ti_fire/
> aren't very reassuring. I think the card looks a lot nicer than the hydrocopper variant at EVGA, but EVGA does have its legendary customer service.


My recent RMA went smoothly even though they claim the card was fine and they blame the cause of the problem on something else. I've since decided to just watercool the card.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akajay*
> 
> Pretty bad, it is caused by the last row of raised VRM's. If I remove the .5mm thermal pad the card probably wouldn't bend because right now its squished, but I don't know how risky it is to bare contact the VRM to a block.
> 
> When I was test fitting the block with thermal pads the right side of the block was raised like something was in the way. Which was the VRM.
> 
> If you did not notice a bend when you mounted your block you probably have the original design without the raised VRM's.


I finished installed the block yesterday and didn't notice any flex. I did notice that the .5 thermal pad it calls for on the capacitor banks was not making contact with the block. I switched it out for the much thicker thermal pad it originally had with the air cooler. I did notice with the original thermal pads it raised the card off of the block a bit more prior to screwing it down, but once I attached all the screws there was very little to no flex.

So I'm wondering, is it ok to reuse the original thermal pad material if I was able to remove it in one piece?


----------



## Toque

Anyone know what the best Bois would be for the regular Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti?


----------



## lowmotion

The best bios? There is F3 and F4. It doesnt matter. I go with F4, because the Target TDP 250w seems to be better for 24/7


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Toque*
> 
> Anyone know what the best Bois would be for the regular Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti?


Depends, if you want extreme performance with no barriers, I would tentatively recommend the ArticStorm BIOS. You have a nice fat 432W TDP limit at your disposal.

Otherwise stick to the stock F3/F4, there isn't a difference between them because they both boost to 375W TDP with a maxed MSI afterburner slider.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I would tentatively recommend the ArticStorm BIOS. You have a nice fat 432W TDP limit at your disposal.


I remember seeing somewhere that there are 2 versions of this Arctic Storm bios. Is that right? Which one is ''newer'' and better?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowmotion*
> 
> The best bios? There is F3 and F4. It doesnt matter. I go with F4, because the Target TDP 250w seems to be better for 24/7


F4 goes up to 375W. Get good case venting and it's no problem at all


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> I remember seeing somewhere that there are 2 versions of this Arctic Storm bios. Is that right? Which one is ''newer'' and better?


 GP102_arcticstorm1.zip 156k .zip file


This is the one I flashed. Came from KedarWolf.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Wow, so i got my Xtreme card in, put on the waterblock, threw it in my loop, and then proceeded to beat the single 1080 ti record for Superposition at 1080p Extreme. It will benchmark at 2176/6237. I don't think i have the memory fully dialed in either. It's completely game stable at 2138 with 1.093v.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> GP102_arcticstorm1.zip 156k .zip file
> 
> 
> This is the one I flashed. Came from KedarWolf.


Have you tried the AMP Extreme bios? Seems good becuase of the highest stock clocks and the PL is serious enough. Do u consider Arctic Storm better because of its 432W PL?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Have you tried the AMP Extreme bios? Seems good becuase of the highest stock clocks and the PL is serious enough. Do u consider Arctic Storm better because of its 432W PL?


Yup, the power limit alone. And as a stroke of luck, the ArcticStorm BIOS also has favourable VRAM timings for our Aorus cards.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Yup, the power limit alone. And as a stroke of luck, the ArcticStorm BIOS also has favourable VRAM timings for our Aorus cards.


Good,will have to try it. Just switched to Aorus from FE last wek and am considering which bios is the best for it. Overall, its 375W PL seem enough so far except for SuPo 8k. I'm on 4k.
Are you on air or water?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Good,will have to try it. Just switched to Aorus from FE last wek and am considering which bios is the best for it. Overall, its 375W PL seem enough so far except for SuPo 8k. I'm on 4k.
> Are you on air or water?


I'm on water and the 375W is not enough.

Funnily enough, even 432W can throttle in 8K content. But this is exceptionally hard to do.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I'm on water and the 375W is not enough.
> 
> Funnily enough, even 432W can throttle in 8K content. But this is exceptionally hard to do.


Whichever game I tried to play, I have never seen any power related throttling. that's why I'm saying 375W is enough for me. Or so it seems after my former FE. Though I didn't play A:ME which should be eating away all the power you throw at it.
You are sayng that arctic storm bios is good in terms of memory timings, does the memory OC better than it does on stoc bios? How about core freq, is there any good in this bios in terms of freq/voltage?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Whichever game I tried to play, I have never seen any power related throttling. that's why I'm saying 375W is enough for me. Or so it seems after my former FE. Though I didn't play A:ME which should be eating away all the power you throw at it.
> You are sayng that arctic storm bios is good in terms of memory timings, does the memory OC better than it does on stoc bios? How about core freq, is there any good in this bios in terms of freq/voltage?


Its weird because I think the Gigabyte BIOS has higher Vdroop than the ArcticStorm BIOS. It clocks higher (2100mhz) but it gets much lower performance. My 2075mhz on the ArcticStorm scores a lot higher than the Gigabyte 2100mhz.

The VRAM clocks about the same as stock, but we don't get a performance loss like the XOC BIOS.

All in all, its basically the same as the stock BIOS but you get a massive TDP boost.

Word of warning though, if you didn't have coil whine with the stock BIOS, you might get it with the ArcticStorm BIOS because much more current is being pushed through the chokes.


----------



## gpvecchi

Someone with liquid cooling has an Xtreme backplate to sell?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Someone with liquid cooling has an Xtreme backplate to sell?


Most of us won't even if we did because that voids our warranty.


----------



## V5-aps

Got the Phanteks water block installed on my Xtreme today, without any drama. Temps dropped by about 40c, which really helps, it's hot here at the moment!
Card hits and maintains 2100 no problem under water ?
The block is RGB, for those that like that, with the cable fitting straight into the card itself.


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Got the Phanteks water block installed on my Xtreme today, without any drama. Temps dropped by about 40c, which really helps, it's hot here at the moment!
> Card hits and maintains 2100 no problem under water ?
> The block is RGB, for those that like that, with the cable fitting straight into the card itself.


Where did you order yours from? I prefer it over the EK block.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Got the Phanteks water block installed on my Xtreme today, without any drama. Temps dropped by about 40c, which really helps, it's hot here at the moment!
> Card hits and maintains 2100 no problem under water ?
> The block is RGB, for those that like that, with the cable fitting straight into the card itself.


excellent, now all you have to do is try the ArcticStorm BIOS. The performance will fly.

IMO the phanteks block should perform slightly better than the EK block at core temps because the water doesn't have to do a sharp 90 degree turn after exiting the fin stack (albeit at the slight cost in top VRAM array temps).

But I prefer the security of Acetal over plexi/acrylic.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> Where did you order yours from? I prefer it over the EK block.


From OCUK.

I normally go for EK, but decided to try something else fir a change and to match my sons build. Its my first plexi block.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Hey guys, i need a really big favor from someone. I flashed my Aorus Xtreme with different bioses trying them out. And I made the mistake of just assuming I could download a stock one off of Techpowerup if i wanted to go back to stock.

The problem is, the bios i flashed was the DVI bios, and all of the techpowerup copys are the displayport/hdmi bioses. Is there anyone with a DVI monitor, that could switch over to the DVI bios and copy it for me? The bioses on the gigabyte website require the specific bios be active in order to flash, so since I have no DVI bios, when I try to flash it, it won't recognize it.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> Hey guys, i need a really big favor from someone. I flashed my Aorus Xtreme with different bioses trying them out. And I made the mistake of just assuming I could download a stock one off of Techpowerup if i wanted to go back to stock.
> 
> The problem is, the bios i flashed was the DVI bios, and all of the techpowerup copys are the displayport/hdmi bioses. Is there anyone with a DVI monitor, that could switch over to the DVI bios and copy it for me?


You can get the bios files from here:

http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl

Both DVI and DP/HDMI files are part of the download, so you can choose.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> You can get the bios files from here:
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl
> 
> Both DVI and DP/HDMI files are part of the download, so you can choose.


unfortunately, the program checks the current vbios to make sure that it's the correct one, and since i no longer have it flashed, it tells me the hardware is incompatible.


----------



## ttnuagmada

False alarm. One of the vbioses on techpowerup was the DVI bios (could have sworn i looked through them all). All is good now.

On that note, im not sure why you guys are flashing other bioses on these cards. Mine performs well enough that I hit the top single 1080 ti score for Superposition 1080p Extreme, something I could not replicate with the Articstorm vbios.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> False alarm. One of the vbioses on techpowerup was the DVI bios (could have sworn i looked through them all). All is good now.
> 
> On that note, im not sure why you guys are flashing other bioses on these cards. Mine performs well enough that I hit the top single 1080 ti score for Superposition 1080p Extreme, something I could not replicate with the Articstorm vbios.


Yeah, I stopped trying to overclock the card. I've settled on dealing with temps on air. Mine climbs up to 74 in my case with fans at 80% thats with the front panel off in my nzxt s340. I'd love to have either temps in the 60s or fans at 60%. My case is super quiet so 80% is a bit loud. Maybe liquid metal is in order.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> False alarm. One of the vbioses on techpowerup was the DVI bios (could have sworn i looked through them all). All is good now.
> 
> On that note, im not sure why you guys are flashing other bioses on these cards. Mine performs well enough that I hit the top single 1080 ti score for Superposition 1080p Extreme, something I could not replicate with the Articstorm vbios.


The ArcticStorm BIOS does better in the 4K test.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Depends, if you want extreme performance with no barriers, I would tentatively recommend the ArticStorm BIOS. You have a nice fat 432W TDP limit at your disposal.
> 
> Otherwise stick to the stock F3/F4, there isn't a difference between them because they both boost to 375W TDP with a maxed MSI afterburner slider.


Do you suggest it for watercooling only or air, too?


----------



## stealth83

New Bios F3P on Gigabyte website, doesnt say anything changed and has same bios # as F4 but file size is smaller so something changed maybe. Havent tried it just letting ya know.

Also an update to Aorus Software

Decided why not and updated to new bios and something is better, could only go to 2050 before, higher would crash, can do 2062 now no problem but crash at 2088. (which Im happy with) running Super at exact same clocks and settings as F4 bios has gained me some extra points. so a keeper for me.

Numbers

F4 bios

max V$P only = 9584
max V$P +54 core = 9765

F3P bios

max V$P only = 9865
max V$P +54 core = 10028

EDIT: just got my best score with new bios,


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth83*
> 
> New Bios F3P on Gigabyte website, doesnt say anything changed and has same bios # as F4 but file size is smaller so something changed maybe. Havent tried it just letting ya know.
> 
> Also an update to Aorus Software
> 
> Decided why not and updated to new bios and something is better, could only go to 2050 before, higher would crash, can do 2062 now no problem but crash at 2088. (which Im happy with) running Super at exact same clocks and settings as F4 bios has gained me some extra points. so a keeper for me.
> 
> Numbers
> 
> F4 bios
> 
> max V$P only = 9584
> max V$P +54 core = 9765
> 
> F3P bios
> 
> max V$P only = 9865
> max V$P +54 core = 10028


They probably changed the Vdroop.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Do you suggest it for watercooling only or air, too?


It works for either but it works better on water. The ArcticStorm stresses the VRMs a fair bit more than the stock BIOS. The Bonus however, is unmistakable, this is how I've been topping the Superposition charts for the GTX 1080ti division.


----------



## lsantana954

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth83*
> 
> New Bios F3P on Gigabyte website, doesnt say anything changed and has same bios # as F4 but file size is smaller so something changed maybe. Havent tried it just letting ya know.
> 
> Also an update to Aorus Software
> 
> Decided why not and updated to new bios and something is better, could only go to 2050 before, higher would crash, can do 2062 now no problem but crash at 2088. (which Im happy with) running Super at exact same clocks and settings as F4 bios has gained me some extra points. so a keeper for me.
> 
> Numbers
> 
> F4 bios
> 
> max V$P only = 9584
> max V$P +54 core = 9765
> 
> F3P bios
> 
> max V$P only = 9865
> max V$P +54 core = 10028


I dont see it on the site under the xtreme support section.


----------



## ttnuagmada

It's there, im looking at it right now.


----------



## Ryu Silveira

Hey everyone! Was wondering if anyone can help me with some advice and tips; also have some questions. Please bare with me, this may be a bit long...lol. Anyways, I just purchased the Aorus Extreme Edition as well as an LG 27'' UD68P 4K monitor. When installing my GPU, I noticed this had 2 8 pin connections, my previous GPU which was a GTX 980 had 2 6 pin connections. My motherboard is an Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark 1. What I did, was just connected the 2 6 pin connections into each slot, then grabbed the other dual connections I saw which was just 2 of each and plugged those in completing the 8 pin for the GPU. Is this okay? Some said to not use the pins that came with the GPU and I didn't, but wanted to make sure I installed it correctly as for now everything is running properly. I also installed my RAM to upgrade it to 16 from 8. Installed the GPU. Installed the monitor and booted everything up. I wanted to test out the GPU, so I downloaded MSI Afterburner & GPU Z. Not sure if I need to download anything else? Any other programs that would help me. I am curious to overclock this card, but want to be careful in overclocking as this will be my first time. I know I have a lot of reading to do with this thread. 162 pages...lmao.

Driver Version: 384.76
GPU Clock 1607 MHz
Memory 1404 MHz
Boost 1721 Mhz

I tested out Rainbow Six: Siege, playing it at 4K everything set to ultra and I get 60 frames. I also tested out GTA V, playing it at 4K everything set to ultra and I get 60 frames. One question I had is in regards to MSAA, I don't need to use this right? Because for some reason when I set it to x8 because I have plenty of VRAM left, it just cuts my frames in half, both games that I've tested down to 30. Crazy...lol. This is just with the stock setting of the GPU as I haven't really touched anything.

My "Power Limit" is set to 100. My "Core Clock" is set to 0. My "Memory Clock" is set to 0. Fan Speed is set to 42, but I've read here to keep this at 100? It's just on automatic right now. I didn't bother with installing the Aorus software that came with my GPU as I've heard it's not the greatest, I was originally intending to just install it and click overclock and be done with it, I've heard that's a big no no and to just download MSI instead.

My end game goal here is to just be able to play 4K 60 frames. So far from the 2 games I've tested, I've been able to do so with it stock. I feel with overclocking, I can overclock to just get a couple extra frames for certain demanding games I plan on testing in the future like Tomb Raider, The Witcher 3, & possibly Metro. Here, I can overclock it to a safe amount and just leave it and not mess with it from there, but still continue to monitor my temperatures and hopefully not have the game crash on me.

I went on to 3D Mark and did a benchmark to see how things went and this is what I got...

*Fire Strike Ultra*- 6708

Graphics Score- 6,906 38.44 FPS
Physics Score- 11,103 35.25 FPS
Combined Score- 3,709 17.25 FPS

As for my PC settings...I'm running...

Processor- i7-4790K 4.0
Motherboard- Asus Sabertooth Z97 Mark 1
RAM- 16 GB
GPU- GTX 1080 ti Aorus Extreme Edition
PSU- Corsair CS850M
SSD- 250 GB
HDD- 1 TB

I greatly appreciate anyone that takes the time to help me, I'm very meticulous with everything, so want to have peace of mind that everything is running smoothly.


----------



## Slackaveli

you are golden, dude, as is. no need to turn that fan up unless you are overclocking the core, which you probably won't need to do as you are already achieving your 4k/60 goals. In 4k MSAA is basically pointless as you cant really see jaggies, but I usually run it at 2x in most games. Some lighter games i run 4x just b/c i have so much perf. I am overclocked , but we are talking about a few fps only in 4k. You can try adding multiples of 13 , or more accurately two steps = 25, to your core if you need to squeeze out some more fps. +13, +25, +38, +50, +63, +75, etc. None of us are getting past +100~, so that's the golden sample high end it seems (I run +63 day to day).


----------



## Ryu Silveira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slackaveli*
> 
> you are golden, dude, as is. no need to turn that fan up unless you are overclocking the core, which you probably won't need to do as you are already achieving your 4k/60 goals. In 4k MSAA is basically pointless as you cant really see jaggies, but I usually run it at 2x in most games. Some lighter games i run 4x just b/c i have so much perf. I am overclocked , but we are talking about a few fps only in 4k. You can try adding multiples of 13 , or more accurately two steps = 25, to your core if you need to squeeze out some more fps. +13, +25, +38, +50, +63, +75, etc. None of us are getting past +100~, so that's the golden sample high end it seems (I run +63 day to day).


Thanks for the help man! Good to hear I got everything set up properly...lol. So if anything, I can run 2x MSAA? And you mean I can raise my GPU Clock by 13, 25, 38, etc. Leave everything else as is? I tested a 3rd game which was PUBG. This I was able to do 4K everything set to ultra and I get 52-54 frames average. I noticed benchmarks for Dishonored 2, I would hit 40 frames or so, I'm going to download the demo and test myself. In cases like these, I would like to be able to overclock to add a couple frames!

Overall, very happy with the card!


----------



## gpvecchi

FYI: Aorus software doesn't find F3P as update for F4, and even F4 as update for F3P...


----------



## 3x3cUt0r

They deleted F4 from the page, now there is F3 and F3P, thats wierd.


----------



## gpvecchi

Do you think that Xtreme backplate has a better cooking function that the regular one? They have different pads.


----------



## avioni

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Do you think that Xtreme backplate has a better cooking function that the regular one? They have different pads.


backplate cooling is insignificant


----------



## murenitu

What improvements does bios f3p have? It's worth putting


----------



## Cool Mike

I have purchased the AORUS Xtreme GeForce GTX 1080 Ti *Waterforce* 11GD. Looks like it has the F2 bios.

Tried updating bios to F3 with NO success. I owned the air cooled version and updated it with no problems.

*Wondering if the Waterforce version is not allowing a bios update? The PCB card is the same, but of course the unit is different.

Any thoughts?*


----------



## UdoG

I have the Waterforce WB version - with a new firmware (version number is > F4). I would like to do some tests with F3, but I got the same error as you - card not compatible.
The only way to install the F3 Bios is to use the nvflash tool.

https://www.techpowerup.com/download/bios-flashing/


----------



## Cool Mike

I will need the .rom file right? I cannot find a .rom file for the Aorus 1080ti xtreme.

F3 or F3P


----------



## UdoG

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/?architecture=NVIDIA&manufacturer=Gigabyte&model=GTX+1080+Ti&interface=&memType=&memSize=&since=


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> I will need the .rom file right? I cannot find a .rom file for the Aorus 1080ti xtreme.
> 
> F3 or F3P


All of the "Extreme Gaming" labeled vBIOS' on techpowerup are the Aorus Xtreme roms. Be careful though, and make sure you know which vBIOS is currently enabled on your card. If you flash the 3hdmi/3DP bios while you're using a DVI monitor, or vice-versa, you'll be flashing the wrong bios. I flashed a 3hdmi/3dp rom on my card while the DVI bios was active, and I ended up having to blind-flash the correct rom onto it.


----------



## nugget toes

Is anyone having problems with the fans not working at all? I just got this card today and noticed playing a game my temps jumped over 90C in a couple minutes causing lots of stutter. I've tried Afterburner, Aorus Engine, and EVGA Precision X to move the fan settings around and I cannot get the fans to spin. The "Fan Stop" LED is perma lit up.

Aorus 1080 ti Xtreme
Bios Ver F4
Driver Ver 22.21.13.8476


----------



## oguignant

Hello!!







I need help. I need help. ArcticStorm bios are safe?

I have a graphic card *Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti 11g (No Xtreme).* The new Bios (f3p) is crap. From where can I download the ArcticStorm BIOS for my *Aorus 1080ti 11g (No Xtreme)*? After installing the ArcticStorm BIOS can I go back and install the original bios of Gigabyte? Is it easy to install ArcticStorm Bios? Which version should I install? Are there any instructions? I have to change something in the hardware?

Please, I do not have more information on ArcticStorm Bios. If someone can explain me well the difference with the original Bios ...

Thank you very much in advance


----------



## stealth83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oguignant*
> 
> Hello!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need help. I need help. ArcticStorm bios are safe?
> 
> I have a graphic card *Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti 11g (No Xtreme).* The new Bios (f3p) is crap. From where can I download the ArcticStorm BIOS for my *Aorus 1080ti 11g (No Xtreme)*? After installing the ArcticStorm BIOS can I go back and install the original bios of Gigabyte? Is it easy to install ArcticStorm Bios? Which version should I install? Are there any instructions? I have to change something in the hardware?
> 
> Please, I do not have more information on ArcticStorm Bios. If someone can explain me well the difference with the original Bios ...
> 
> Thank you very much in advance


The arctic bios in the best collection folder found HERE as well as instructions with video but can I ask what happened with the F3P bios that you didnt like? I ask because for me it seems to be the best so far, the XOC was ok and the Arctic didnt work to good. Oh and yes you can go back to original bios, instructions at that link. Might try XOC later again, maybe something went wrong last time.


----------



## oguignant

All benchmarks (3dmark all, Heaven, etc...) go better with the F4 bios than with the F3P...

I use laptop i7 7820hk + alienware graphic amplifier (with PSU Corsair cx650m) + Gigabyte Aorus 1080 ti (So the scores are not the same as a normal desktop pc)

Example...

*F4 BIOS*


*F3P BIOS*


*I use this settings*


Question: After updating the F3P bios I always have to re install the drivers?

-


----------



## oguignant

All benchmarks (3dmark all, Heaven, etc...) go better with the F4 bios than with the F3P...

I use laptop i7 7820hk + Alienware Graphic Amp + Aorus 1080 ti (So the values are not the same as a desktop)

Example...
*F4 BIOS*


*F3P BIOS*


*I use this settings*


After updating the bios F3P I always have to re install the drivers?


----------



## Cool Mike

looked at that. Core clocks do not look like the xtreme version.

1632 base


----------



## oguignant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cool Mike*
> 
> looked at that. Core clocks do not look like the xtreme version.
> 
> 1632 base


Not the Xtreme version. Is Aorus 1080ti 11g only... I say it in the first post


----------



## Juve

So I have just finished playing Metro Last Light on my new PC. It is running on a pair of Aorus 1080 ti xtremes which due to the size of the cards are only separated from each by a few centimeters. According to Afterburner my top card peaks at about 83c (occasionally hitting 84 but dropping back down to 83), the lower card is a good 20 degrees cooler. Is this a safe temperature for the top card to hitting? I haven't overclocked the cards at all...


----------



## orbitalwalsh

sorry, not a Ti owner but am a 1080 Extreme version owner with something a little different





still need to test it and try VRM bolts with 10mm M3 rather then current 8mm to see if block can be pulled onto the PCB a bit more

also have dual XTRs but that's a different story


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juve*
> 
> So I have just finished playing Metro Last Light on my new PC. It is running on a pair of Aorus 1080 ti xtremes which due to the size of the cards are only separated from each by a few centimeters. According to Afterburner my top card peaks at about 83c (occasionally hitting 84 but dropping back down to 83), the lower card is a good 20 degrees cooler. Is this a safe temperature for the top card to hitting? I haven't overclocked the cards at all...


Holy mother of mercy thats hot. It should be OK but I'm more concerned with how hot your VRMs + VRAM are getting more than the core. The Core can sustain 83C all day for years with no issues (hell the FE cards run at 83C all the time) but the bigger problem is the support components i mentioned.

You see, the VRAM shares a copper cold plate with the Core, normally, the VRAM is hotter than the core so the extra heat is wicked away but if the core is 83C, it means the VRAM is also sharing that heat load so they're operating in at least the high 80s if not mid 90s. This is unhealthy for the VRAM as it is far more sensitive than the core to temps as far as temps are concerned.

the VRMs are already pretty hot at stock, with 2 cards sandwiched together, I wouldn't be surprised if they're approaching 100C. Again, they're able to withstand up to 125C unlike the VRAM but its still not healthy to be like this long term. If you're the sort to keep the card for 3yrs+ then you should be concerned.


----------



## Juve

Yeah, starting to regret going the SLI route, at least with these cards. I foolishly didn't factor in their size when I purchased them. To make matters worse here in Australia it is winter and the weather is in the low teens outside.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juve*
> 
> Yeah, starting to regret going the SLI route, at least with these cards. I foolishly didn't factor in their size when I purchased them. To make matters worse here in Australia it is winter and the weather is in the low teens outside.


I know the feel, i did the same thing with a pair of AMD 290s which were just as hot. Your best bet is offload the 2nd card on Gumtree or something and use that money to watercool the 1st card. You'll enjoy both better temperatures and more consistent performance.


----------



## Juve

Yeah seriously considering it. The only other option I gather would be to fork out more dough for a larger motherboard that will allow for greater space between the two GPU's which should just about solve the issue... but I'm not sure I am prepared to do that.


----------



## Mindtaker

Hi, I bought an AORUS GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme, the performance is ok but the temp in gaming (99% use - 2160p) is 80ºC with all the case open and 84ºC with the case closed. Ambient temp 18ºC aprox. Is that a problem of the GPU or these are normal temps? Thanks in advance.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> Hi, I bought an AORUS GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme, the performance is ok but the temp in gaming (99% use - 2160p) is 80ºC with all the case open and 84ºC with the case closed. Ambient temp 18ºC aprox. Is that a problem of the GPU or these are normal temps? Thanks in advance.


At which rpms do you get these temps? Looks like the fans are not working.
And yes, this temperature is NOT normal, check the cooler seating and the TIM.
I have a non-Extreme Aorus and I get 62-65C at 70% cooler rpms at 27C ambient.


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> At which rpms do you get these temps? Looks like the fans are not working.
> And yes, this temperature is NOT normal, check the cooler seating and the TIM.
> I have a non-Extreme Aorus and I get 62-65C at 70% cooler rpms at 27C ambient.


The fans are on 55% at these temps (default curve). BTW I'll confirm this in a little while.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> The fans are on 55% at these temps (default curve). BTW I'll confirm this in a little while.


If your ambient is 18C, there is definitely something wrong.


----------



## Ryu Silveira

What does F3P Bios and F4 Bios mean?


----------



## jstudrawa

Howdy all. I grabbed the non-Xtreme version a couple months ago roughly. Have only recently been overclocking/pushing it a bit. I was able to hit +110 and +500 for now on 125%/90c limits. Still on original BIOS, haven't upgraded to F4 yet.

Full system:

i5 4670K @4.2GHz
Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD4H motherboard
Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080TI 11GB
Crucial Vengeance Pro 4x4GB 2133
Samsung 840 EVO 250GB SSD
Samsung 750 EVO 500GB SSD
AOC Agon AG352UCG 35" Curved Gaming Monitor (G-Sync is as good as cilantro)
EVGA 650W P2 psu
Logitech G910 mechanical keyboard
Logitech G502 mouse
Logitech Z5300 5.1 speakers
Glorious 3XL Extended Gaming Mouse Mat (48 x 24)
All wrapped up in the original Antec Nine Hundred case (she's getting old, I know)

Hope to be able to contribute but mostly I'm a lurker for info







Great forum.

IMG_20170626_201603.jpg 4311k .jpg file


IMG_20170707_202522.jpg 2327k .jpg file


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> If your ambient is 18C, there is definitely something wrong.


Yep 18C, GPU on fresh start is at 29-30C

10 min of gaming:



http://i.imgur.com/l8Ab3hl.jpg


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> Yep 18C, GPU on fresh start is at 29-30C
> 
> 10 min of gaming:
> 
> 
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/l8Ab3hl.jpg


Wow. That's way too much temperature for Aorus.









Look what it looks like on my Aorus non-Extreme after several loops of Heaven 1440p. You can see there the freq, volts, fan curve setting and temps. Ambient is 26C. It's not even close to what you see on your card.
Do something with it.


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Wow. That's way too much temperature for Aorus.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Look what it looks like on my Aorus non-Extreme after several loops of Heaven 1440p. You can see there the freq, volts, fan curve setting and temps. Ambient is 26C. It's not even close to what you see on your card.
> Do something with it.


That's the default curve



I'll modified it.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> That's the default curve
> 
> 
> 
> I'll modified it.


Yes. try a more agressive fan curve and have a peek at what you will get.


----------



## Juve

I can't seem to get my head around afterburner. When I go to the fan tab and create my own fan curve, how do I then apply it to the system? Also is there a way to set that fan curve as a default setting so that it automatically applies upon firing up the PC? I am a little confused here and any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Yes. try a more agressive fan curve and have a peek at what you will get.


With a less agressive curve than yours:

http://i.imgur.com/oVUYlGc.jpg

Finishing 2nd pass:

http://i.imgur.com/Vi8fS9d.jpg

Now its ok? Thanks for all









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juve*
> 
> I can't seem to get my head around afterburner. When I go to the fan tab and create my own fan curve, how do I then apply it to the system? Also is there a way to set that fan curve as a default setting so that it automatically applies upon firing up the PC? I am a little confused here and any help would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks!


Select "User define" in Fan speed (MSI main window).

Then, in general settings check "start with windows".


----------



## Juve

Thanks. Here's hoping that with an aggressive fan curve I can drop the temperature down at least a little *crosses fingers*.
Gonna give it a try.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> With a less agressive curve than yours:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/oVUYlGc.jpg
> 
> Finishing 2nd pass:
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/Vi8fS9d.jpg
> 
> Now its ok? Thanks for all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well. I'd work on it for some more to get the temp lower and the freq would go up with temps down








For an ambient and frequency like yours it's still too much. Most probably there is a problem with cooler seating or TIM.
But your temps are at least on the safe side.


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Well. I'd work on it for some more to get the temp lower and the freq would go up with temps down
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For an ambient and frequency like yours it's still too much. Most probably there is a problem with cooler seating or TIM.
> But your temps are at least on the safe side.


With 93% on fans.


----------



## jungleizmassiv

Hello World


----------



## Juve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jungleizmassiv*
> 
> Hello World


Nice...


----------



## jungleizmassiv

I don't know what to do, just unplugged two GB 980Ti and plugged in this beast. Gonna take a while to find out what a beast this card is.

What are settings on Heaven should I use to bench/test OC settings? DX11, Ultra, Extreme, AA8?


----------



## oguignant

Hi. A question. Someone try to apply Grizzly Conductunaut or Kryonaut to an Aorus 1080ti non-xtreme card? What were the results? Any advantage? I use Grizzly Conductunaut on my lapop and it's result was excellent...


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oguignant*
> 
> Hi. A question. Someone try to apply Grizzly Conductunaut or Kryonaut to an Aorus 1080ti non-xtreme card? What were the results? Any advantage? I use Grizzly Conductunaut on my lapop and it's result was excellent...


I did. It depends on how crap your factory paste job was. I was getting 70C with fans at 100% 4K loading at stock.

I went from stock to Conductonaut. I could get 60C at full 4K load with fans at 100%, 20C ambient. I'd imagine Kryonaut is only maybe 2C worse.


----------



## oguignant

Aorus 1080 ti xtreme or non-xtreme?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oguignant*
> 
> Aorus 1080 ti xtreme or non-xtreme?


Aorus normal but its irrelevant. The Normal and Extreme are exactly the same except for backplate.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Aorus normal but its irrelevant. The Normal and Extreme are exactly the same except for backplate.


I have a regular and an extreme and have taken both apart to put on water blocks, and while the boards are exactly the same, the components aren't 100% the sames. the VRM's look slightly different.


----------



## oguignant

My card: 74c max (Fan 100%) 26c ambient. I think I'll wait for the summer and then apply LM.

I am surprised by the noise from the fans. Very quiet. My gigabyte 1080 g1 was very noisy.

What OC settings do you use in:

*Core voltage
Power limit
temp limit
core clock
memory clock*


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> I have a regular and an extreme and have taken both apart to put on water blocks, and while the boards are exactly the same, the components aren't 100% the sames. the VRM's look slightly different.


In what way? do you have photos? which waterblock?


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> If your ambient is 18C, there is definitely something wrong.


I'm thinking the issue is on my case (just 2 lows fans). I added another fan to the Hyper212 (provisory) and now have these results:

http://i.imgur.com/E0nJhKQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/g2CCM6Z.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/nIrAwgC.jpg

With stock curve:

http://i.imgur.com/1cFZWD4.jpg

What do you think?

There is still a room to upgrade the airflow in the case.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> I'm thinking the issue is on my case (just 2 lows fans). I added another fan to the Hyper212 (provisory) and now have these results:
> 
> What do you think?
> 
> There is still a room to upgrade the airflow in the case.


For me it's still too much given the frequency, voltage and ambient. Yes, try to improve the airflow in the case though it will not help very much.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> I have a regular and an extreme and have taken both apart to put on water blocks, and while the boards are exactly the same, the components aren't 100% the sames. the VRM's look slightly different.


If I'm not wrong that are just 2 different releases of the board, I read somewhere of slightly thicker VRMs, so probably not related to Xtreme/normal.


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> For me it's still too much given the frequency, voltage and ambient. Yes, try to improve the airflow in the case though it will not help very much.


T. Ambient 20.5 - 20.8C

Inside case:

Down side 31-32C

Uppser side 35C

With this curve: http://i.imgur.com/E0nJhKQ.jpg

Dying Light: 73-74C 99% use 77-81% FAN GPU

Should I return back it? Thanks for all your help.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> T. Ambient 20.5 - 20.8C
> 
> Inside case:
> 
> Down side 31-32C
> 
> Uppser side 35C
> 
> With this curve: http://i.imgur.com/E0nJhKQ.jpg
> 
> Dying Light: 73-74C 99% use 77-81% FAN GPU
> 
> Should I return back it? Thanks for all your help.


Look what I get at your settings, ambient is 24C. Haven't measured temps inside the case though but it's fairly well vented I think (closed HAF932 with a side 200 mm fan).



Your temps are not that bad now but I stll would try to improve it.. increase the fan speed a little, check the case airflow. I would also check the cooler seating and the tim, as I said.


----------



## oguignant

anyone know what the default fan temperature curve of Aorus gtx 1080ti?


----------



## Teeesto

Does anyone have an idea of what happened to rgb on my graphic card?


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Look what I get at your settings, ambient is 24C. Haven't measured temps inside the case though but it's fairly well vented I think (closed HAF932 with a side 200 mm fan).
> 
> 
> 
> Your temps are not that bad now but I stll would try to improve it.. increase the fan speed a little, check the case airflow. I would also check the cooler seating and the tim, as I said.


I did a pass with the fan curve you use - 22C T. Ambient.

http://i.imgur.com/SRq8sL1.jpg

This is my case

http://i.imgur.com/CrCofLX.jpg


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> I did a pass with the fan curve you use - 22C T. Ambient.
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/SRq8sL1.jpg
> 
> This is my case
> 
> http://i.imgur.com/CrCofLX.jpg


Temps are OK, though they could be better, at least compared to mine. And the case is good enough, but a couple of extra upper fans would be good to your temps.
It's up to you whether to bother with it or not, I would









BTW your result in HB was in 1080p, not in 1440p.


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Temps are OK, though they could be better, at least compared to mine. And the case is good enough, but a couple of extra upper fans would be good to your temps.
> It's up to you whether to bother with it or not, I would
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW your result in HB was in 1080p, not in 1440p.


Yes I'll buy some quality fans for my case







. I have not changed the pasta either (you change it?).

Yes haha, was a mistake putting windows mode.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mindtaker*
> 
> Yes I'll buy some quality fans for my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I have not changed the pasta either (you change it?).
> 
> Yes haha, was a mistake putting windows mode.


Yep, I repasted my GPU but did not get that much - around 2-3C. It was OK out of the box.
See if you can install an extra front intake fan - that can help a little too.


----------



## Maddnesss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teeesto*
> 
> Does anyone have an idea of what happened to rgb on my graphic card?


Mine doesn't light up at all and hasn't since I bought it from the retailer.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> In what way? do you have photos? which waterblock?


Well, i thought I had photos, but one of them has thermal pads over the parts that are different. Here is a photo of the non-Xtreme card. See how the back pieces of the VRM (mosfets?) are are circular? The Xtreme board had rectangular ones like those in front of the inductors. It's the only difference i noticed, and it's probably very minor.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> In what way? do you have photos? which waterblock?


I went with the EKWB blocks. I'm waiting on a couple of things before i actually do my new build, but i threw both cards in my current loop individually. The Xtreme card will finish benchmarks at 2176/6237, but i can't get 100% game stability at anything over 2113/6106. The non-Xtreme can't finish benchmarks at anything over 2135/???? (haven't maxed the memory yet), but it appears to be 100% stable at 2113 also, though with higher voltage than the Xtreme. I'm just going to flash the Xtreme bios on both cards i think. I'm very happy with these things.

The EK blocks seem pretty awesome. I used Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut, and the delta T between the water and core temp is roughly 5-6C. My current loop is just a 360 rad with a CPU, and 36C is the highest temp either GPU has reached.


----------



## oguignant

@Dasboogieman
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I did. It depends on how crap your factory paste job was. I was getting 70C with fans at 100% 4K loading at stock.
> 
> I went from stock to Conductonaut. I could get 60C at full 4K load with fans at 100%, 20C ambient. I'd imagine Kryonaut is only maybe 2C worse.


Today apply liquid metal (Grizzly Conductunaut) to my Aorus GTX 1080ti. The temperature dropped only a little, about 10 degrees (27C ambient). I was able to raise the values of Core lock to +80 (2075MHz) and Memory Clock to +520. The temperature dropped about 10 degrees and the consumption of the fans 5%. With the fan at 100% the temperature of the gpu does not exceed 55 degrees after 1 hour of 4k stress test with FurMark.

After running several stress tests and benchmark the board never crashed, the improvement was not much but some help.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> Well, i thought I had photos, but one of them has thermal pads over the parts that are different. Here is a photo of the non-Xtreme card. See how the back pieces of the VRM (mosfets?) are are circular? The Xtreme board had rectangular ones like those in front of the inductors. It's the only difference i noticed, and it's probably very minor.


I see, you got a revision of the Aorus card. My Non-extreme has the exact same PCB as the Extreme version. What you are seeing is the capacitor bank. This can be a problem because the waterblock makes pretty close contact with the that bank with maybe 1mm to spare, if the new circular capacitors have bigger Z-heights because the stock Heatsink uses a 1.5mm tolerance, the block won't sit down properly.

Actually, Gigabyte might've only changed the caps due to a supply issue. I wouldn't be surprised if there are few Extreme versions in the wild that have those same cylindrical caps as well.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> I see, you got a revision of the Aorus card. My Non-extreme has the exact same PCB as the Extreme version. What you are seeing is the capacitor bank. This can be a problem because the waterblock makes pretty close contact with the that bank with maybe 1mm to spare, if the new circular capacitors have bigger Z-heights because the stock Heatsink uses a 1.5mm tolerance, the block won't sit down properly.
> 
> Actually, Gigabyte might've only changed the caps due to a supply issue. I wouldn't be surprised if there are few Extreme versions in the wild that have those same cylindrical caps as well.


it seemed to fit fine. the screws are so short that they don't grab if there is any gap at all, but i didn't have any issues, and there was no warping or anything when i screwed it down. block is clearly making good contact with the GPU as my temps are in the low 30's during gaming at 2100/6106.

I'll inspect it before i put it in my new rig, i might try a .5mm pad if it looks like it would be better.


----------



## oguignant

Not bad for a laptop... it's a good score, right?


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Finally, no RGB manure. With Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and Minus pads.


----------



## T3naci0usT

Well got my WB version and it was DOA, artifacts like crazy and crashes on a lot of things. Sigh.....


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheParisHeaton*
> 
> Finally, no RGB manure. With Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut and Minus pads.


what kind of temp delta you get with the kryonaut? I went with Conductonaut on my EK blocks and my delta temps are about 6C between water temp and GPU temp.


----------



## oguignant

Hi, can anyone tell me what are the dimensions and thickness of the thermal pads to replace them in Aorus GTX 1080 non-xtreme? Any web that shows the indications?

I apply Grizzly Conductunaut, but do not change thermal pads, is it convenient to change them too? Does anything change in performance? I have Fujipoly pads of 11 W/mk.

Thks!


----------



## Emi77

Hello, im about to recieve a gtx1080ti aorus extreme i've just bought. For what've been reading in reviews it seems this particular 1080ti runs hotter than other brands. Is the aourus cooling solution bad? there is a problem with the thermal paste? or just the fans not activating properly?. Any way, since im probably not returning it, i've been reading this thread in order to take proper precautions. So correct me if im wrong, This are the steps i should follow:
-Don't install aourus soft/drivers.
-Download and install nvidia last drivers
-Download and install msi afterburner
-Set custom fan curves as pointed from many

Anything else? Does the bios update/change really helps?

thx in advance.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> Hello, im about to recieve a gtx1080ti aorus extreme i've just bought. For what've been reading in reviews it seems this particular 1080ti runs hotter than other brands. Is the aourus cooling solution bad? there is a problem with the thermal paste? or just the fans not activating properly?. Any way, since im probably not returning it, i've been reading this thread in order to take proper precautions. So correct me if im wrong, This are the steps i should follow:
> -Don't install aourus soft/drivers.
> -Download and install nvidia last drivers
> -Download and install msi afterburner
> -Set custom fan curves as pointed from many
> 
> Anything else? Does the bios update/change really helps?
> 
> thx in advance.


The biggest problem with the Aorus card is the factory thermal paste is extremely bad. Coupled with low speed stock fan curve (the fans are a lot more efficient at 50-80% in terms of cooling vs noise) is the reason why this card is so hot at stock.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The biggest problem with the Aorus card is the factory thermal paste is extremely bad. Coupled with low speed stock fan curve (the fans are a lot more efficient at 50-80% in terms of cooling vs noise) is the reason why this card is so hot at stock.


Repasted my Aorus with Kryonaut and it gave me almost nothing, something around 2C. Though the stock TIM was an unknown dry substance. And tightened the bolts around the chip stronger but to little avail as it seems.


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ALSTER868*
> 
> Repasted my Aorus with Kryonaut and it gave me almost nothing, something around 2C. Though the stock TIM was an unknown dry substance. And tightened the bolts around the chip stronger but to little avail as it seems.


I cant find that brand in my country, is Arctic Cooling Mx-4 better? worse? the same? sorry for the offtopic


----------



## outofmyheadyo

I recently sold my founders 1080ti that coilwhined like crazy, how is the coilwhine on the aorus 1080ti cards ?
I cant stand coilwhine, I have an open case, that is watercooled, loudest part of the system is the 4x140mm fans on my rad that run @ 500rpm.
Have an option buying aorus 1080ti, but not sure.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> I recently sold my founders 1080ti that coilwhined like crazy, how is the coilwhine on the aorus 1080ti cards ?
> I cant stand coilwhine, I have an open case, that is watercooled, loudest part of the system is the 4x140mm fans on my rad that run @ 500rpm.
> Have an option buying aorus 1080ti, but not sure.


They all whine unless you get the HOF or Kingpin models.

The Aorus has more dampening than other cards so the effects of Coil Whine are greatly mitigated.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> I cant find that brand in my country, is Arctic Cooling Mx-4 better? worse? the same? sorry for the offtopic


MX-4 is slightly worse, Kryo is deemed to be top.


----------



## TheParisHeaton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttnuagmada*
> 
> what kind of temp delta you get with the kryonaut? I went with Conductonaut on my EK blocks and my delta temps are about 6C between water temp and GPU temp.


I have cca 7-8 celsius difference between water and gpu. But, i dont have thermal sensor in front of card.. so i cant say right value.


----------



## gpvecchi

They all say that Strix OC is much cooler than Aorus Xtreme (and it is), but I don't know if tests were made in auto mode or with 100% fan.
Anyone has a test with 100% fan? Our cards have a bad fan curve...


----------



## jexux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> They all say that Strix OC is much cooler than Aorus Xtreme (and it is), but I don't know if tests were made in auto mode or with 100% fan.
> Anyone has a test with 100% fan? Our cards have a bad fan curve...


100% of fan in Strix = 3500rpm more or less
100% of fan in aorus xtreme 2750rpm more or less. Difference is 2 o 3 C° but with more noise. For me, aorus is better. I prefer the silence


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jexux*
> 
> 100% of fan in Strix = 3500rpm more or less
> 100% of fan in aorus xtreme 2750rpm more or less. Difference is 2 o 3 C° but with more noise. For me, aorus is better. I prefer the silence


Interestingly, if you run the XOC BIOS on the Aorus, your fans can go to 3500RPM as well. From what I've seen, the Aorus fan has a softer roar profile @ 3500RPM while the Strix has a rather irritating screech.


----------



## jexux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Interestingly, if you run the XOC BIOS on the Aorus, your fans can go to 3500RPM as well. From what I've seen, the Aorus fan has a softer roar profile @ 3500RPM while the Strix has a rather irritating screech.


The rpm of the aorus is 2870. I was wrong about 100 rpm, but it's still a lot different from the 3500's of the Strix. I had the two graphics cards and as I say, the temperature difference did not compensate for the increase in noise.

I am also doing tests with the Bios F3P and I have seen that I have improved some fps, but also can be that as I have lowered 3 degrees the ambient temperature, if the graph was working in about 62 Cº and now stands for 59 Cº, the difference Real in the score, do not lose 13 mhz boost.
The important thing is that it works without problems.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jexux*
> 
> The rpm of the aorus is 2870. I was wrong about 100 rpm, but it's still a lot different from the 3500's of the Strix. I had the two graphics cards and as I say, the temperature difference did not compensate for the increase in noise.
> 
> I am also doing tests with the Bios F3P and I have seen that I have improved some fps, but also can be that as I have lowered 3 degrees the ambient temperature, if the graph was working in about 62 Cº and now stands for 59 Cº, the difference Real in the score, do not lose 13 mhz boost.
> The important thing is that it works without problems.


Wait did you test the XOC BIOS? Back when I did it, it seemed to kick the fan speeds up a notch.


----------



## jexux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Wait did you test the XOC BIOS? Back when I did it, it seemed to kick the fan speeds up a notch.


I had the two graphics cards and tried them to see the good and the bad of each one:



The tests I'm talking about are with F4 Bios on the Aorus Xtreme and Stock Bios on the Strix OC.
I just changed the BIOS of the Aorus to the F3P to try it out and it looks like it's going well.


----------



## Emi77

You tested the aorus with the custom (msi) fan curve and no other modifications and you got 3º difference between it and the asus at 100% load?

Edit to not double post. is this psu "EVGA 850 GQ, 80+ GOLD 850W, Semi Modular" Enough for extreme version at 150%?
i currently have a 750w bronze low brand, i probably should upgrade.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Sorry, posted in a wrong thread.


----------



## 20After4

I just bought this card when i install it into the first slot it powers on the rgb lights cycle and the monitor comes out of sleep mode the monitor is on and says it's recieving a signal but screen is black both 8pin plugs are in i've even changed them around I get error code 62 and the system just sits there until i reset. I've only ever used AMD cards so i'm pissed that i've just spent $1700 on two of these and already having problems system runs stable with an AMD GV-R797TO-3GD card.
AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition 11G 

System
i7 7700k @5ghz

gigabyte z170x gaming g1 with f/22b bios

64gb gskill tridentz 3466

2 Samsung 960 pro 1 tb nvme

corsair ax1200i PSU


----------



## T3naci0usT

I am sad too. Waiting for my replacement.


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> This card needs space and airflow. Got the normal version here. BIOS F4, power limit to max (150%/375W), fan curve like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Core curve set like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Centurion 590 CoolerMaster case, free space between front fans and card, 2x Scythe 140mm fans in front, 2x 120mm fans on top and one rear.
> 
> Temperatures no higher then 55 Celsius when gaming, core mostly stays at 2075 MHz, sometimes drops to 2063 MHz, memory set at 11954 MHz and keeps at it.
> 
> EDIT: MAYBE!...
> ...You have not enough space and air flow for a card like this.
> 
> EDIT 2:
> Interesting point made, you can have a beautiful case....


is there a way you can share your core curve config? its getting hard to me to copy the config by just watching the graphs


----------



## Ryu Silveira

My card is stock at the moment. If I wanted to overclock it slightly without any potential issues, where do I start? What settings should I start to increase?


----------



## jexux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> You tested the aorus with the custom (msi) fan curve and no other modifications and you got 3º difference between it and the asus at 100% load?
> 
> Edit to not double post. is this psu "EVGA 850 GQ, 80+ GOLD 850W, Semi Modular" Enough for extreme version at 150%?
> i currently have a 750w bronze low brand, i probably should upgrade.


i tested with custom fan curve 30%fan allways at 40º and next point to 100%fan 70º.
PSU is ok for this graphic.


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jexux*
> 
> i tested with custom fan curve 30%fan allways at 40º and next point to 100%fan 70º.
> PSU is ok for this graphic.


Thanks I'll keep the psu then. i've tested my card and with default core curve and 150% power it reachs max 59/60 at 100% (56 with open case) and 0 coil whine so i couldn't be happier.
I'm still struggling with volt/core curve, every change I make, makes it perform worse than default curve in benchmark tests. So i'm definitely doing something wrong.


----------



## munkfus

Anyone else ever experienced this issue with lightning on the card

Here's picture of it;


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munkfus*
> 
> Anyone else ever experienced this issue with lightning on the card
> 
> Here's picture of it;


that's not normal, seems like something leaked


----------



## Sweetwater

Looks like when you leave the plastic film on and have air bubbles under it, the stuff you sometimes forget to peel off. But I can't remember if it had any on the logo


----------



## munkfus

I did check about the plastic film, there's no on it.

I fill a RMA on gigabyte, hope they answer so I can send them picture of it.

My first time doing RMA.

Other than that, card is doing good


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munkfus*
> 
> I did check about the plastic film, there's no on it.
> 
> I fill a RMA on gigabyte, hope they answer so I can send them picture of it.
> 
> My first time doing RMA.
> 
> Other than that, card is doing good


if card performs great and doesnt have coil whine i would think about rma for this twice.


----------



## munkfus

I'm trying big game to see if its still perform well...

I'm not sure yet everything is fine, because i have some small issue in big game...hope its not related..

I'll see until they answer


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munkfus*
> 
> I'm trying big game to see if its still perform well...
> 
> I'm not sure yet everything is fine, because i have some small issue in big game...hope its not related..
> 
> I'll see until they answer


Yeah, maybe they could just send you the backplate and not a whole new card. It would suck to get one that has coil whine, or doesn't clock as nicely as the one you already have. I hate this whole lottery aspect of hardware.


----------



## munkfus

I have around 50-60fps at PUBG

2560*1440
everything @ ultra

Ryzen 7 1700x @ 3.8ghz 1.35v

Stock clocking on GTX 1080 TI ...

The lightning hotspot become worst now..

Temperature is around 72-74 C when playing for a long time

Fan curve is stock, tried to raise it a bit..not really gaining much temperature

if someone can help me about this, i don't know what kind of fps shoud l have as average with those setting

I have a AOC 27" g-sync 165hz monitor and it's enable in nvidia panel, otherwise all setting are stock


----------



## Zero989

Got my Xtreme card. So far at 2139Mhz Core and 6116Mhz memory


----------



## Ryu Silveira

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munkfus*
> 
> I have around 50-60fps at PUBG
> 
> 2560*1440
> everything @ ultra
> 
> Ryzen 7 1700x @ 3.8ghz 1.35v
> 
> Stock clocking on GTX 1080 TI ...
> 
> The lightning hotspot become worst now..
> 
> Temperature is around 72-74 C when playing for a long time
> 
> Fan curve is stock, tried to raise it a bit..not really gaining much temperature
> 
> if someone can help me about this, i don't know what kind of fps shoud l have as average with those setting
> 
> I have a AOC 27" g-sync 165hz monitor and it's enable in nvidia panel, otherwise all setting are stock


Well, since my question that I asked last page flew by everyone's head. I'll go ahead and give you my input since I also have my GPU stock while playing PUBG. I get 50-55 frames with everything set to ultra. Difference between your setup and my setup is that I'm actually playing in 4K. So I'm surprised you're getting roughly the same frames I am but at 1440p...

My CPU is an i7-4790k 4.0.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *20After4*
> 
> I just bought this card when i install it into the first slot it powers on the rgb lights cycle and the monitor comes out of sleep mode the monitor is on and says it's recieving a signal but screen is black both 8pin plugs are in i've even changed them around I get error code 62 and the system just sits there until i reset. I've only ever used AMD cards so i'm pissed that i've just spent $1700 on two of these and already having problems system runs stable with an AMD GV-R797TO-3GD card.
> AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition 11G
> 
> System
> i7 7700k @5ghz
> 
> gigabyte z170x gaming g1 with f/22b bios
> 
> 64gb gskill tridentz 3466
> 
> 2 Samsung 960 pro 1 tb nvme
> 
> corsair ax1200i PSU


using Display port?

I get issue with black screen as I swap out a lot of GPUs from different models/makes/brands - if using display port I power on- once the screen goes black I remove the DP cable and reinsert and monitor picks up the signal


----------



## FL00D

Hey guys,

Please, could someone let me know what the difference is between bios versions F4 and F3P? It seems Gigabyte pulled F4 from their website. To me 'F3P' suggests it's a lower version? I currently have F4 on my non-Xtreme, is it worth 'upgrading' to F3P? Any benefits at all?

Thanks


----------



## 20After4

no using HDMI its weird because the monitor comes out of sleep but the screen is still black ive tried unplugging and pluging in again but nothing works i've RMA'd it sending it back for a replacement


----------



## Sazerac81

Hey Aorus owners, I have a question for all of you guys that have been using this card for awhile.

I am thinking of getting the Waterforce WB version of the Aorus 1080 Ti and have a question on output ability on the card.

Can this card run up to 6 monitors simultaneously if you were to pass an HDMI from inside the case out to another monitor? Or are the extra HDMI outputs simply there to aid in VR setups?

I would love to have a gaming and also a multi-monitor trading station with at least 6 monitors during trading hours. Ideally, I would be able to achieve this with one GPU.

So far, my very old liquid cooled gtx 670 is locked in at 4 screens and can handle 1080p gaming at high graphic detail levels. I am also looking at getting into VR in the next year and it seems like the 1000 series of Nvidia cards are the way to go due to the single pass rendering for both eyes for VR.﻿

Is the Aorus locked in at only 4 screens max on the card (when not using the Dual Dvi output) or can it be bumped up to 5 or 6 outputs as long as you avoid the use of the DVI-D output? I would only be gaming on one screen really, but I would be using the 5-6 screen setup as a tradestation at a few designated times throughout the day.

Cheers,
John


----------



## Teeesto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munkfus*
> 
> Anyone else ever experienced this issue with lightning on the card
> 
> Here's picture of it;


I have the same problem. I suppose this leak came from thermal pad. Gigabyte support has not responded so far.


----------



## munkfus

At least, I see I'm not alone with this issue

I got a RMA and I'll send it soon.


----------



## simontomi

I'm trying to update my BIOS with no success. Going from factory default F4 to F3P, using DP.
I run the BIOS update exe, it starts nvflash, screen glitches up and goes to black for a few seconds, then says the update was successful, I click reboot. The problem is, that nothing has changed at all. Aorus software says it's still F4. Tried flashing F3, same thing happened, still on F4 with a power limit of 150%.

I need some help with this


----------



## Ukaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simontomi*
> 
> I'm trying to update my BIOS with no success. Going from factory default F4 to F3P, using DP.
> I run the BIOS update exe, it starts nvflash, screen glitches up and goes to black for a few seconds, then says the update was successful, I click reboot. The problem is, that nothing has changed at all. Aorus software says it's still F4. Tried flashing F3, same thing happened, still on F4 with a power limit of 150%.
> 
> I need some help with this


If you use a antivirus(specially Bitdefender), this is the cause. You have to allow all the folders and executables of the "AH" bios.


----------



## simontomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> If you use a antivirus(specially Bitdefender), this is the cause. You have to allow all the folders and executables of the "AH" bios.


You might be right, Bitdefender blocked it initially, but then I allowed the folder, tried again and then uninstalled Bitdefender, still no luck. I'm on Windows 10 Insider 16241 by the way, could this also be a problem?


----------



## Ukaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simontomi*
> 
> You might be right, Bitdefender blocked it initially, but then I allowed the folder, tried again and then uninstalled Bitdefender, still no luck. I'm on Windows 10 Insider 16241 by the way, could this also be a problem?


Maybe Windows Defender is blocking It ( it's enabled by default) ? Anyway, you have to allow all the folders (subfolders too) of the AH bios. Don't Forget to decompress the archive Again because bitdefender ( maybe Windows defender too) deletes files.


----------



## gpvecchi

Bitdefender didn't block update for me; are you sure you used the right version for Xtreme-non Xtreme?


----------



## simontomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ukaz*
> 
> Maybe Windows Defender is blocking It ( it's enabled by default) ? Anyway, you have to allow all the folders (subfolders too) of the AH bios. Don't Forget to decompress the archive Again because bitdefender ( maybe Windows defender too) deletes files.


Defender is also disabled, decompressed the archives again too. Could you tell me how does a successful vbios flash look like? For me, the nvflash window pops up, then after a few seconds the screen glitches up and goes to black, then everything goes back to normal and the program asks me to reboot.


----------



## simontomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Bitdefender didn't block update for me; are you sure you used the right version for Xtreme-non Xtreme?


Yes, I'm sure, I got it from here: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl
I have no idea what could be causing this problem


----------



## 404Error

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simontomi*
> 
> Yes, I'm sure, I got it from here: http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl
> I have no idea what could be causing this problem


Yea I'm having same issues. Are you using display port right now?


----------



## Maddnesss

I've also got the same problem. I'm still stuck on F3


----------



## simontomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *404Error*
> 
> Yea I'm having same issues. Are you using display port right now?


Yes, 2 DP monitors, nothing else.


----------



## gpvecchi

My monitor was DVI connected; stupid idea, did you tried running as admin?


----------



## Monitorn00b

Hello, I got this card a month ago, I'm quite happy and mostly use OC mode but I really don't like the aorus software as the default fan curve is **** and it changes the fans to semi passive many times and then surprise throttling or high temps...

I would like to have the oc mode profile from the aorus software but with a better fan curve. I'm a noob so how can i replicate those settings to use it on msi afterburner or even on a custom profile in aorus software so I can have a good fan curve? thanks!

EDIT: My GPU has F4 bios, so this isn't the latest? thanks


----------



## Ukaz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simontomi*
> 
> Defender is also disabled, decompressed the archives again too. Could you tell me how does a successful vbios flash look like? For me, the nvflash window pops up, then after a few seconds the screen glitches up and goes to black, then everything goes back to normal and the program asks me to reboot.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simontomi*
> 
> You might be right, Bitdefender blocked it initially, but then I allowed the folder, tried again and then uninstalled Bitdefender, still no luck. I'm on Windows 10 Insider 16241 by the way, could this also be a problem?


If you have downloaded the files from the gigabyte website, when it updates the bios, the command shell should last a little longer (with the 3 dots). Me too I didn't understand at first but I'm pretty sure it's the antivirus. If it's bitdefender internet sécurity , reinstall it, add a exception per folder and per file, let it on autopilot (important, otherwise the AV won't take exceptions into account ). I did this and it work every time nowh.


----------



## 404Error

Yea upon further investigation trying to flash f3 via gigabytes exe says "board mismatch" for a split second in command line window before falsely declaring it a success in the pop up dialog window.


----------



## DeadpoolUK

Installed the EK full cover waterblock on my aorus 1080ti extreme a while ago. The temps have gone from sitting at around 65-70 when gaming (4K ultra settings on games that are in early alpha so not optimised at all and very GPU hungry) to 30-40 on the same games. I've got to change the paste on the CPU block though because I dont think it spread correctly and 2 of my cores are getting stupidly hot now and making the fans sit too loud, everything else is so cool that I could easily drop the fans down to less than half what they are sitting around and still be well under 50-55 degrees.

I highly recommend water cooling this card if you can afford it. The difference is phenomenal.


----------



## BodegaOz

Haven't posted for ages but landed a pair of Ti Xtreme WBs 2 days back. Great clocks and good looks to boot.

Quickly threw them into existing loop and set them to Red as a contrast in my blue build.

Temps are unbelievable - Card 1 @ 30c and Card 2 @ 32-33c under full load. Nice.

Excuse messy 'office desk' shots and uncombed cables in the installation pic.

Right, back to benching .....


----------



## darkinners

Aorus 1080ti Xtreme Edition x2
These cards are amazing


----------



## sultanxy

hello guys.. so got my 1080 ti aorus xtreme edition.. happy with the results BUT... when stress testing and gaming, sometimes the temps gets 84c!!! today got stable at 78c







(
i havent adjusted the fan curves and i dont like doing it when i did maximizing the fan to 100% it gets around 66c.. i have S340 elite case and front h115i radiator mounted.. whats going on guys!!?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sultanxy*
> 
> hello guys.. so got my 1080 ti aorus xtreme edition.. happy with the results BUT... when stress testing and gaming, sometimes the temps gets 84c!!! today got stable at 78c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (
> i havent adjusted the fan curves and i dont like doing it when i did maximizing the fan to 100% it gets around 66c.. i have S340 elite case and front h115i radiator mounted.. whats going on guys!!?


What is your ambient temperatures and Fan speed?

The Aorus has a pretty big jump in cooling performance from 50%-100% fan speed with minimal increase in noise.

If you change the thermal paste, you can probably knock down the temperature to 60C-62C ish at 100% fan speed.


----------



## 404Error

Looks like the new auros waterforce cards aren't compatible with the other auros extreme bios's or the arctic storm bios, when I try to flash it's giving a board mismatch error. They've got a new bios that was compiled on 05/16/17 from 86.02.39.00.DC, I've uploaded that here https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/193733/193733. Originally I assumed that the boards were fundamentally the same as the non-waterforce ones but now I'm not so sure. I'll probably have to pull the card out of the loop to find out myself but if someone else could upload a pic of their new waterforce pcb it would save me a lot of time


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sultanxy*
> 
> hello guys.. so got my 1080 ti aorus xtreme edition.. happy with the results BUT... when stress testing and gaming, sometimes the temps gets 84c!!! today got stable at 78c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (
> i havent adjusted the fan curves and i dont like doing it when i did maximizing the fan to 100% it gets around 66c.. i have S340 elite case and front h115i radiator mounted.. whats going on guys!!?


I'll tell you what's up. That case is terrible for ventilation. I have the regular s340 and was getting the same temps until I removed the front panel and dust filter. my temps dropped to 72 from 83, and thats with 80% fan which is pushing it for me as far as noise. Now the case is ugly but with reasonable temps. I might look into a new case with front ventilation mesh


----------



## Notor1ouS

iam on F4 bios.
theres a new bios uploaded from this month, F3P bios.
is that exactly the same as F4? or are there any other differences?


----------



## proph

This sexy beast arrived today











Im wondering, who manufactured the waterblock. First i thought it was an EKWB, but it looks nothing like one. Any idea?


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FL00D*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Please, could someone let me know what the difference is between bios versions F4 and F3P? It seems Gigabyte pulled F4 from their website. To me 'F3P' suggests it's a lower version? I currently have F4 on my non-Xtreme, is it worth 'upgrading' to F3P? Any benefits at all?
> 
> Thanks


I can't seem to find any documentation for the F3P bios, but it fixed an issue for me in Gears of War 4. The game would freeze at a certain point, but since updating the bios the game is running perfectly


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *proph*
> 
> This sexy beast arrived today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im wondering, who manufactured the waterblock. First i thought it was an EKWB, but it looks nothing like one. Any idea?


The flow design is unique, slightly reminiscent of Phanteks but I cannot be sure. I do know its a high flow design and it seems to not care about the VRAM VRM like the EK one.


----------



## simontomi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simontomi*
> 
> I'm trying to update my BIOS with no success. Going from factory default F4 to F3P, using DP.
> I run the BIOS update exe, it starts nvflash, screen glitches up and goes to black for a few seconds, then says the update was successful, I click reboot. The problem is, that nothing has changed at all. Aorus software says it's still F4. Tried flashing F3, same thing happened, still on F4 with a power limit of 150%.
> 
> I need some help with this


Solved! I was using DisplayPort, and I tried to flash the DVI BIOS (AXD). All I had to do was flash the AXH version, and it worked on my first try.
Now I just need to see if there's any difference at all


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Hello.
I apologize for my English, I hope everything will be clear.

My system:
1) The processor - i7-7700;
2) The video card - AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition;
3) Motherboard - Asus Z170-P;
4) Operative memory - Kingston DDR4-2666 16384MB PC4-21300 (kit of 2x8192) HyperX Fury Black;
5) BP - was Aerocool VP-650, currently EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G3, 80 Plus Gold 1000W;

So, I bought this game and started to play, but I ran into a problem, on Win7 it periodically flew to the desktop without any errors. After that, I reinstalled the firewood on the graphics card, it did not help. Then he put Win 10 and now the problem remains, but instead of relegation to the desktop, it periodically just hangs dead, you need to shoot the task and run on a new one.
At first I decided that I was not pulling the BP (I thought that the card draws a lot of power from the peak and the PSU simply can not cope), which was 650 Watts and decided to take a 1000 Watts reserve for the future, but as it turned out, Was not in it.
With all this, when I run the Aorus graphics engine and see that the game is currently consumed from the resources, I see that the temperature is normal (above 80 does not rise), but the GPU Clock [MHz] in the game is always at around 2000 I understand that this is probably a lot and the card is working at the limit (probably), but I do not understand why it loads so, because according to their system requirements, my card is too powerful for this game and it will pull it and the card is simpler.
The card works in Gaming mode (there is also OC Mode, Silent mode, User mode), which is selected in the same utility from AORUS.
Departure is not always the same time, when in an hour, when in 2, sometimes it may not fly out, I still do not understand what it's on, but I'm inclined to the video card, the parameter I indicated above is very loaded for some reason








Maybe something is wrong with the video card (last firewood) and you need to take it under warranty (on the other hand, if there were any problems with it, then probably it would not work at all !?)? Maybe with something different? Someone faced this problem?
Please help, and then the iron is very good by today's standards, but there is such a problem ...: (
P.S. I play in the call of duty infinite warfare - with her there are no such problems (not surprisingly, the resources she eats less).
P.P.S. Settings are everywhere at the maximum because such iron does not make sense to take, that would play at lower settings.


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> Hello.
> I apologize for my English, I hope everything will be clear.


sorry mate, can't make sense of whatever you trying to say. Try your native lang


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> sorry mate, can't make sense of whatever you trying to say. Try your native lang


Доброго времени суток.
Моя система:
1) Процессор - i7-7700;
2) Видеокарта - AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition;
3) Материнка - Asus Z170-P;
4) Оперативная память - Kingston DDR4-2666 16384MB PC4-21300 (kit of 2x8192) HyperX Fury Black;
5) БП - был Aerocool VP-650, на данный момент EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G3, 80 Plus Gold 1000W;

Итак, купил я данную игру и начал играть, но столкнулся с проблемой, на Win7 она периодически вылетала на рабочий стол без всяких ошибок. После этого я переустановил дрова на видеокарту, не помогло. Потом поставил Win 10 и теперь проблема осталась, но вместо вылета на рабочий стол, она периодически просто намертво зависает, нужно снимать задачу и запускать по новой.
Сперва я решил, что не тянет БП ( подумал, что ан пике прорисовке карта потребляет много энергии и БП просто не справляется), который был на 650 Ватт и решил взять с запасом на будущее на 1000 Ватт, но как выяснилось - не помогло и причина была не в нем.
При все этом, когда запускаю утилиту Aorus graphics engine и смотрю, что игра потребляем на данный момент из ресурсов, то вижу что температура в норме (выше 80 не поднимается), а вот показатель GPU Clock [MHz] в игре всегда на отметке - 2000. Я понимаю, что наверное это много и карта работает на пределе (наверное), но не понимаю почему она так загружается, ведь исходя их системных требований, моя карта слишком мощная для данной игры и на максималке ее потянет и карта попроще.
Карта работает в режиме Gaming mode ( есть ещеOC Mode, Silent mode, User mode), который выбран в той же утилите от AORUS.
Вылете не всегда через одно и тоже время, когда через час, когда через 2, иногда может и не вылететь, я так и не понял от чего это зависит, но все же склоняюсь на видеокарту, параметр которой я указал выше очень загружен почему-то








Может что-то не так с видеокартой (дрова последние) и нужно сдавать по гарантии (с другой стороны, если б с ней были какие-то проблемы, то наверное она б не работала вовсе!?)? Может с чем-то другим? Кто-то сталкивался с такой проблемой?
Прошу помогите, а то железо очень хорошее по сегодняшним меркам, а возникает такая проблема...








P.S. Играю еще в call of duty infinite warfare - с ней таких проблем нет (не удивительно, ресурсов то она меньше ест).
P.P.S. Настройки везде на максимуме ибо такое железо нет смысла брать, что б играть на более низких настройках.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> sorry mate, can't make sense of whatever you trying to say. Try your native lang


When you start the game Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon: Wildlands the frequency of the card immediately becomes about 2000 MHz and after a while the game freezes and you need to shoot the task.


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> Доброго времени суток.
> Моя система:
> 1) Процессор - i7-7700;
> 2) Видеокарта - AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition;
> 3) Материнка - Asus Z170-P;
> 4) Оперативная память - Kingston DDR4-2666 16384MB PC4-21300 (kit of 2x8192) HyperX Fury Black;
> 5) БП - был Aerocool VP-650, на данный момент EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G3, 80 Plus Gold 1000W;
> 
> Итак, купил я данную игру и начал играть, но столкнулся с проблемой, на Win7 она периодически вылетала на рабочий стол без всяких ошибок. После этого я переустановил дрова на видеокарту, не помогло. Потом поставил Win 10 и теперь проблема осталась, но вместо вылета на рабочий стол, она периодически просто намертво зависает, нужно снимать задачу и запускать по новой.
> Сперва я решил, что не тянет БП ( подумал, что ан пике прорисовке карта потребляет много энергии и БП просто не справляется), который был на 650 Ватт и решил взять с запасом на будущее на 1000 Ватт, но как выяснилось - не помогло и причина была не в нем.
> При все этом, когда запускаю утилиту Aorus graphics engine и смотрю, что игра потребляем на данный момент из ресурсов, то вижу что температура в норме (выше 80 не поднимается), а вот показатель GPU Clock [MHz] в игре всегда на отметке - 2000. Я понимаю, что наверное это много и карта работает на пределе (наверное), но не понимаю почему она так загружается, ведь исходя их системных требований, моя карта слишком мощная для данной игры и на максималке ее потянет и карта попроще.
> Карта работает в режиме Gaming mode ( есть ещеOC Mode, Silent mode, User mode), который выбран в той же утилите от AORUS.
> Вылете не всегда через одно и тоже время, когда через час, когда через 2, иногда может и не вылететь, я так и не понял от чего это зависит, но все же склоняюсь на видеокарту, параметр которой я указал выше очень загружен почему-то
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Может что-то не так с видеокартой (дрова последние) и нужно сдавать по гарантии (с другой стороны, если б с ней были какие-то проблемы, то наверное она б не работала вовсе!?)? Может с чем-то другим? Кто-то сталкивался с такой проблемой?
> Прошу помогите, а то железо очень хорошее по сегодняшним меркам, а возникает такая проблема...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S. Играю еще в call of duty infinite warfare - с ней таких проблем нет (не удивительно, ресурсов то она меньше ест).
> P.P.S. Настройки везде на максимуме ибо такое железо нет смысла брать, что б играть на более низких настройках.


What bios version are you using? Upgrading to version F3P fixed a similar issue for me.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> What bios version are you using? Upgrading to version F3P fixed a similar issue for me.


As far as I know - F3. Did you have the same problem? And how is it possible to see the version of Bios? And if I install a new Bios does not damage the warranty? Where downloaded this version of Bios?


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> When you start the game Tom Clancy's Ghost Recon: Wildlands the frequency of the card immediately becomes about 2000 MHz and after a while the game freezes and you need to shoot the task.


run 3dmark advance stress test or similar (you can buy it or get a key somewhere) to see if the problem persist. If crash does not happen in other games/test at 2000hz then is probably not a problem with the card itself. Also you could try to underclock it to see if the problem persist.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> run 3dmark advance stress test or similar (you can buy it or get a key somewhere) to see if the problem persist. If crash does not happen in other games/test at 2000hz then is probably not a problem with the card itself. Also you could try to underclock it to see if the problem persist.


It at the frequency of 2000 - not immediately flies, and after a while I still did not understand what is the last cause of the hang of the game.
Underclock - Does it mean lowering the frequency yourself?


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> It at the frequency of 2000 - not immediately flies, and after a while I still did not understand what is the last cause of the hang of the game.
> Underclock - Does it mean lowering the frequency yourself?


yes, you can lower it for example using msi AB. if underclocking the videocard doesn't crash anymore means that probably your psu cant provide enough watts, in other words video card can't run stable at 2000hz


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> As far as I know - F3. Did you have the same problem? And how is it possible to see the version of Bios? And if I install a new Bios does not damage the warranty? Where downloaded this version of Bios?


You can use GPU-Z to see the bios version:



And you can download the bios from the Gigabyte suppoprt page:

http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD#support-dl

NOTE: This is the link for the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11G NOT the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G.

And yes, I had a similar problem where the game would just slow down then freeze, forcing me to kill the executable, but it was Gears of War 4.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> yes, you can lower it for example using msi AB. if underclocking the videocard doesn't crash anymore means that probably your psu cant provide enough watts, in other words video card can't run stable at 2000hz


I have an Evga 1000 G3, so I have enough power. If I lower the frequency and this will help, then I need to change the video card under the warranty?


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> You can use GPU-Z to see the bios version:
> 
> 
> 
> And you can download the bios from the Gigabyte suppoprt page:
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD#support-dl
> 
> NOTE: This is the link for the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11G NOT the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G.
> 
> And yes, I had a similar problem where the game would just slow down then freeze, forcing me to kill the executable, but it was Gears of War 4.


A warranty service for the goods remains after the replacement of Bios?


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> I have an Evga 1000 G3, so I have enough power. If I lower the frequency and this will help, then I need to change the video card under the warranty?


First try updating bios as suggested, that doesn't void warranty


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> First try updating bios as suggested, that doesn't void warranty


Thank you, I will try and later unsubscribe.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> You can use GPU-Z to see the bios version:
> 
> 
> 
> And you can download the bios from the Gigabyte suppoprt page:
> 
> http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD#support-dl
> 
> NOTE: This is the link for the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti 11G NOT the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G.
> 
> And yes, I had a similar problem where the game would just slow down then freeze, forcing me to kill the executable, but it was Gears of War 4.


Thanks. Bios look specifically for F3P? Or is the newer F4 also suitable?


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> Thanks. Bios look specifically for F3P? Or is the newer F4 also suitable?


Apparently F4 has been removed and replaced with F3P.


----------



## stealth83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> You tested the aorus with the custom (msi) fan curve and no other modifications and you got 3º difference between it and the asus at 100% load?
> 
> Edit to not double post. is this psu "EVGA 850 GQ, 80+ GOLD 850W, Semi Modular" Enough for extreme version at 150%?
> i currently have a 750w bronze low brand, i probably should upgrade.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> Thanks. Bios look specifically for F3P? Or is the newer F4 also suitable?


F3p is newest

EDIT: posted same time as above, cant delete.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> Apparently F4 has been removed and replaced with F3P.


Once again many thanks for help, I will try.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth83*


Thanks for the answer.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> Apparently F4 has been removed and replaced with F3P.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stealth83*


On the manufacturer's website there are 2 programs for firmware (easy boost utility, VGA bios utility), which see the characteristics of my card, but when the firmware is written "no card found"







How to solve this problem?


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> On the manufacturer's website there are 2 programs for firmware (easy boost utility, VGA bios utility), which see the characteristics of my card, but when the firmware is written "no card found"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to solve this problem?


You don't need to use these applications. Just download the bios and run the .exe. There are two bios updates, depending upon whether you connect by DVI or DisplayPort/HDMI. Read the PDF documentation and run the correct .exe file.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> You don't need to use these applications. Just download the bios and run the .exe. There are two bios updates, depending upon whether you connect by DVI or DisplayPort/HDMI. Read the PDF documentation and run the correct .exe file.


And backup before installation I can not do? The manufacturer told me to make a backup that it would be possible to go back if something goes wrong.


----------



## haha216

I believe you can backup the bios using GPU-Z.


----------



## larrydavid

I just ordered one of the non-xtreme versions from Newegg. Which BIOS is recommended?


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sultanxy*
> 
> hello guys.. so got my 1080 ti aorus xtreme edition.. happy with the results BUT... when stress testing and gaming, sometimes the temps gets 84c!!! today got stable at 78c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (
> i havent adjusted the fan curves and i dont like doing it when i did maximizing the fan to 100% it gets around 66c.. i have S340 elite case and front h115i radiator mounted.. whats going on guys!!?


Check my posts, I had a similar issue.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> I believe you can backup the bios using GPU-Z.


Thanks. Sorry for a lot of questions. Is it better to update via .exe file from gigabyte website or through NVflash win and techpowerup site?


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> Thanks. Sorry for a lot of questions. Is it better to update via .exe file from gigabyte website or through NVflash win and techpowerup site?


I suppose you could use either, but I would personally prefer to use the exe from Gigabyte.


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> I just ordered one of the non-xtreme versions from Newegg. Which BIOS is recommended?


It's usually recommend to stick with factory bios, unless you have issues - but I always like to keep up to date with the latest. No bricked components so far... Touch wood.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> I suppose you could use either, but I would personally prefer to use the exe from Gigabyte.


I understood. Thanks again for your answers.


----------



## Moz007

Hi,

I just bought a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Aorus Waterforce Xtreme Edition and i'm looking for a way to change the color of the led.

Any idea ?

Thanks.


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moz007*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I just bought a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Aorus Waterforce Xtreme Edition and i'm looking for a way to change the color of the led.
> 
> Any idea ?
> 
> Thanks.


You can download the AORUS GRAPHICS ENGINE utility from the Gigabyte website. I think this allows you to change the colour, although I haven't tried it as i went straight to an EK waterblock.


----------



## Moz007

I don't have the option to change the led on this software or can't find it...


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moz007*
> 
> I don't have the option to change the led on this software or can't find it...


Isn't this utility compatible with the Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti Aorus Waterforce Xtreme Edition?


----------



## Moz007

I just have that...


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> I just ordered one of the non-xtreme versions from Newegg. Which BIOS is recommended?


The stock Bios is pretty good. My Xtreme hit 2nd place scores on 1080p Superposition. I think the only limitation the stock bios has is that it can hit a power cap in stressful 4k situations with a heavy OC.

I have an Xtreme and a non-Xtreme, i flashed the non-Xtreme with the Xtreme bios and have had 0 issues, though I don't know that it benefits anything other than making sure my clocks are synced in SLI. It didn't give me better OC clocks or anything like that.


----------



## Moz007

Any idea to change my rgb led color ?









Do i have a good card with a stock boost of 2062Mhz ?

Thanks !


----------



## ForNever

download the auros software utility to change the RGB settings here


----------



## rhodo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sultanxy*
> 
> hello guys.. so got my 1080 ti aorus xtreme edition.. happy with the results BUT... when stress testing and gaming, sometimes the temps gets 84c!!! today got stable at 78c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (
> i havent adjusted the fan curves and i dont like doing it when i did maximizing the fan to 100% it gets around 66c.. i have S340 elite case and front h115i radiator mounted.. whats going on guys!!?


I have the same case and cooler, my temps never get above 63 degrees when 4k gaming. . I always run aggressive fan profile. @ 50C I am 100% fan speed. Aorus fans are quiet compared to other cards. Your h115 above 1300rpm will be louder than the Aorus at 2800rpm..


----------



## KryziK

For anyone not aware, LED options don't show up for everyone. I have AORUS Graphics Engine installed and lighting controls are not there. I've reinstalled it, flashed bios, and everything.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> I suppose you could use either, but I would personally prefer to use the exe from Gigabyte.


Sorry, It is me again. I downloaded Bios, and there are 2 folders N108TAXD.F3P_A and N108TAXH.F3P_A. What is the difference? Which one do I need to use?


----------



## KryziK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> Sorry, It is me again. I downloaded Bios, and there are 2 folders N108TAXD.F3P_A and N108TAXH.F3P_A. What is the difference? Which one do I need to use?


One is for HDMI and one is for DVI. I think it just means which one you have plugged in primarily (so that you can see the screen when it flashes???). You should have gotten a manual or something with a picture of 2 different display configurations.

Bottom line, if you want to use the HDMI port while flashing, go with the AH, otherwise use AD. For DisplayPort, I'm not actually sure which one, if it matters (both might work; someone should confirm).


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> One is for HDMI and one is for DVI. I think it just means which one you have plugged in primarily (so that you can see the screen when it flashes???). You should have gotten a manual or something with a picture of 2 different display configurations.
> 
> Bottom line, if you want to use the HDMI port while flashing, go with the AH, otherwise use AD. For DisplayPort, I'm not actually sure which one, if it matters (both might work; someone should confirm).


I have DVI. Which I must choose?


----------



## Moz007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> For anyone not aware, LED options don't show up for everyone. I have AORUS Graphics Engine installed and lighting controls are not there. I've reinstalled it, flashed bios, and everything.


Gigabyte knows that ? Fix will come ?


----------



## KryziK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> I have DVI. Which I must choose?


Use N108TAXD.F3P_A.


----------



## KryziK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moz007*
> 
> Gigabyte knows that ? Fix will come ?


Not sure if they're officially aware of it. I hope a fix comes for it.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> Use N108TAXD.F3P_A.


Thanks.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> Use N108TAXD.F3P_A.


Do I need to disconnect the card in Device Manager before installing with .exe file?


----------



## KryziK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Luc Skywalker*
> 
> Do I need to disconnect the card in Device Manager before installing with .exe file?


Here are some instructions:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/63vt85/aorus_and_aorus_xtreme_gtx_1080_ti_f4_beta_bios/

To answer your question: No. Just run the exe. That's the point of picking the DVI folder; it'll let you keep your display on.

Also, the BIOS file you downloaded should have had a small instructions PDF inside of it, next to the 2 folders.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> Here are some instructions:
> 
> 
> __
> https://www.reddit.com/r/63vt85/aorus_and_aorus_xtreme_gtx_1080_ti_f4_beta_bios/
> 
> To answer your question: No. Just run the exe. That's the point of picking the DVI folder; it'll let you keep your display on.


I understand , thanks.


----------



## Moz007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KryziK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Moz007*
> 
> Gigabyte knows that ? Fix will come ?
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure if they're officially aware of it. I hope a fix comes for it.
Click to expand...

Wait, they are selling a card with "RGB customization" on the box and they don't give a ***** about it ??? Very professional...


----------



## KryziK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Moz007*
> 
> Wait, they are selling a card with "RGB customization" on the box and they don't give a ***** about it ??? Very professional...


On top of that, I had to RMA my card because it wasn't stable on OC settings. Then, my fixed card came with physical damage and missing screws, and the manager wont call me back. Plus, I had to pay shipping on the RMA.

Less than thrilled with my experience thus far. Hoping Gigabyte will fix the situation. At least my card is super speedy now.


----------



## Luc Skywalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> I suppose you could use either, but I would personally prefer to use the exe from Gigabyte.


Did not help







In the Gaming mode, the card issues 1984 MGh, but maybe it should be so, I will play and see if the game will hang or not. In the reviews this card did not show more than 1900 in games, and I already have 1984


----------



## Monitorn00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Monitorn00b*
> 
> Hello, I got this card a month ago, I'm quite happy and mostly use OC mode but I really don't like the aorus software as the default fan curve is **** and it changes the fans to semi passive many times and then surprise throttling or high temps...
> 
> I would like to have the oc mode profile from the aorus software but with a better fan curve. I'm a noob so how can i replicate those settings to use it on msi afterburner or even on a custom profile in aorus software so I can have a good fan curve? thanks!
> 
> EDIT: My GPU has F4 bios, so this isn't the latest? thanks


Can someone help me? thanks

This is the default I get with MSI Afterburner


----------



## sultanxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rhodo*
> 
> I have the same case and cooler, my temps never get above 63 degrees when 4k gaming. . I always run aggressive fan profile. @ 50C I am 100% fan speed. Aorus fans are quiet compared to other cards. Your h115 above 1300rpm will be louder than the Aorus at 2800rpm..


soo what do suggest.. shoud i RMA the card?


----------



## wheezy

This is so disappointing. I built a system last year with an Asus Maximus VIII Extreme and a Gigabyte WIndforce OC 1080. The combo works great! Had a time limited coupon for NewEgg and decided to purchase the Gigabyte Extreme Waterforce 1080ti as an upgrade.

The card arrived and wouldn't work. Undetected by the BIOS. I also jumped through all the hoops of driver removal tools, bios updates, bios rollbacks. At each step I also swapped the original Windforce card back in with zero issues. I couldn't figure it out and decided, card is probably DOA (no other systems at the house to test with). Replacement finally showed up two weeks later *side note, newegg can suck it. All excited, took my time, mounted the radiator, dialed in the dual power supply cables. With anticipation high, I fire up the machine "Display Port: No Signal Detected" - instant gut sinking feeling and lots of profanity.

Went through built in display port connection into bios, no card detected. Lots more profanity and just shut it down and walked away before having a HULK SMASH session.

*So, here is another TWO cases of the Gigabyte Extreme 1080ti NOT working with the ASUS Maximums VIII Extreme.
*


----------



## wheezy

Thread on the incompatibility here. Been waiting for an official response on a support ticket with Gigabyte.

https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?94351-Maximus-VIII-Extreme-amp-Gigabyte-Aorus-GTX-1080Ti-Incompatible-(Cannot-Detect-GPU)&p=664277&posted=1#post664277


----------



## Mindtaker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Monitorn00b*
> 
> Can someone help me? thanks


Again, check my posts.


----------



## wheezy

OVER IT. Ain't nobody got time for this. I've RMA's the card for the SECOND TIME. This time had to beg for store credit, which I did receive. Will be placing an order for an ASUS or MSI card.


----------



## BytesMage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheezy*
> 
> OVER IT. Ain't nobody got time for this. I've RMA's the card for the SECOND TIME. This time had to beg for store credit, which I did receive. Will be placing an order for an ASUS or MSI card.


So sorry you had this trouble with it.

I have the regular Aorus and had an issue at first with my card being recognized on first boot. I was using DP port 1 and found that I had to put it on DP port 3 to actually be seen by bios. I have an older MB than you. Asus Maximus V Extreme. Once I had it on the DP 3 port it booted. I went into safe mode, deleted drivers did a DDU and rebooted again. All was good then, I can now put the card on any of the DP ports and it is fine. I have had the card since April and love it. It OCx very well. But from what i have read the Waterforce cards are a different pcb and bios. Sometimes it just pays to get an air card and make your own loop.

Hope you have better luck with whatever you decide to buy.


----------



## wheezy

It's a known issue, tried all the low level basic stuff obviously. Reupdated bios, rolled back bios versions, driver removal tools, changing ports along the way, even hdmi ports, changed pci slots, purchased a PCI riser to make sure it was seated all the way.

Just doesn't work. It's been tracked to the Gigabyte VBIOS causing the conflict. So, swapping it for an ASUS Strix 1080ti - it's marginally slower *1-2 fps across the board in benchmark results; and it actually works.


----------



## Tsahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wheezy*
> 
> It's a known issue, tried all the low level basic stuff obviously. Reupdated bios, rolled back bios versions, driver removal tools, changing ports along the way, even hdmi ports, changed pci slots, purchased a PCI riser to make sure it was seated all the way.
> 
> Just doesn't work. It's been tracked to the Gigabyte VBIOS causing the conflict. So, swapping it for an ASUS Strix 1080ti - it's marginally slower *1-2 fps across the board in benchmark results; and it actually works.


sorry if i state something obviouse but did u connect a molex power connector to your mobo? ( there is a connector on the bottom left of your mobo if i recall). it is a designated extra power connector that should be used when connecting a power hungry card/s.

also: did u try changing to gen 2?


----------



## Wanescotting

Hi everyone, strongly considering buying the GIGABYTE AORUS Xtreme GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB 11GD, but would like to know current owners thoughts. I fully expected to buy EVGA this time, but was a little disappointed by their offerings.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wanescotting*
> 
> Hi everyone, strongly considering buying the GIGABYTE AORUS Xtreme GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB 11GD, but would like to know current owners thoughts. I fully expected to buy EVGA this time, but was a little disappointed by their offerings.


I of course being here, own a Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti and I came from using for two years MSI cards.

I am at this current time, simply over joyed by the card.

I have Over Clocked it through MSI Afterburner :

PowerLimit : 150
TempLimit : 90
CoreClock : +65
MemoryClock : +100

At these settings I maintain an overall max core speed of 2025MHz in games. Its solid, reliable and performing on par.

I only play at 1080p but I strongly require now all my games to play at 60fps across the board max visuals...

Only negative on receiving the card on the day funny enough was the size of the card !, I had to literally gut my harddrive bay to get it into my case. I had thought my previous 980ti card to be big but really the card is humongous.

It sits in the case next to me, its not loud at all even on a custom fan curve set up.

So, highly recommend the card.


----------



## MixeraBG

guys can you tell me what is better bios for non Exteam card Auros 1080 ti i have f4 and nw i see they have new one f3p its there any difrence or?


----------



## MixeraBG

and someone with Auros have this problem when use Geforce Exp. to record me gpu usage stay low but me clock speed go on max and that make me card to overheat pls help


----------



## Emi77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayombie*
> 
> *
> *
> 
> I of course being here, own a Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti and I came from using for two years MSI cards.
> 
> I am at this current time, simply over joyed by the card.
> 
> I have Over Clocked it through MSI Afterburner :
> 
> PowerLimit : 150
> TempLimit : 90
> CoreClock : +65
> MemoryClock : +100
> 
> At these settings I maintain an overall max core speed of 2025MHz in games. Its solid, reliable and performing on par.
> 
> I only play at 1080p but I strongly require now all my games to play at 60fps across the board max visuals...
> 
> Only negative on receiving the card on the day funny enough was the size of the card !, I had to literally gut my harddrive bay to get it into my case. I had thought my previous 980ti card to be big but really the card is humongous.
> 
> It sits in the case next to me, its not loud at all even on a custom fan curve set up.
> 
> So, highly recommend the card.


Can you share your voltaje/core curve?


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Emi77*
> 
> Can you share your voltaje/core curve?


Will this do :

https://s25.postimg.org/ptp94scjj/Image1.jpg

I have to my knowledge not altered anything with the core frequency curve.


----------



## BytesMage

Jayombie,

That is the FQ curve you get when using only sliders to OC. Mine looks very similar. I am only using sliders because my card prefers it over making a curve. Every FQ curve I have made preforms less optimally to the old fashioned sliders. My card also hates added CV. I can give it 100% CV to give it the headroom but I will get less FPS in benching (and lower scores) and games. Not by much but 5 FPS is life sometimes. These cards are crazy lot. They have a mind of their own. I have been adjusting my OC since April. Fine tuning. I am on P3 BIOS with a Non-Extreme. So I am at 125 power limit not 150. But the card does well. I can get 2025 in games and benching with a +25 on the Core. I get 2037 with a +36-38 on core. If I go to +65, it goes up to 2063. Each card reacts its own way. I like to daily run at +38 for 2037MHz in games is fine for me. I game on a 34" 3440x1440p monitor so I know my card will maybe not go as far on air as on 1080p.

Enjoy this card. I love it. I came from many years of Evga and I do not miss it. I was not impressed by what they were going to present when I bought this card. Not sorry. Happy new Gigabyte owner (My first one from them).


----------



## rhodo

1080ti Aorus extreme and 1080ti Aorus extreme waterforce owner. Still setting up my water loop on new system waiting for compression fittings to arrive.

My 1080ti Aorus extreme has been very interesting and different from the old non pascal setup. Out of the box it hits 2037mhz with power drop spikes. I use evga XOC to overclock. With only+116% to power I can maintain 2025-2037mhz and stop the power drop spikes.

Overclocking, I can maintain 2075 core and 445 on the memory at 58c in all gaming. In superposttion 4k (10535) I can hit 2100mhz with drop down to 2088 once at 58c. I cannot use those settings for gaming as it will crash.

I used the graph curve to tune with but it did give very stable overclocks, but its performance was in benching several hundred less in superposition, and 6 fps on average in games by tuning without the curve. Nvidia gpu boost 3.0 does a pretty good job of maintaining things.

This all on an x58 motherboard running a i7 990x still on pcie 2.0 technology inside a nzxt s340 with the let it breath mod.

I spent hours fine tuning the memory and found my peak best stable value 445mhz increase compared to stock gave an average benchmark increase of 3fps at 4k. Going above this value gave a reduction in performance. At 575mhz on memory it was unstable.

Really impressed with this card, cant wait to tune the waterforce on a modern system.

.


----------



## rhodo

Tried both
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MixeraBG*
> 
> guys can you tell me what is better bios for non Exteam card Auros 1080 ti i have f4 and nw i see they have new one f3p its there any difrence or?


This is my experience trying both on my 1080ti extreme.

F4 Higher overclocking numbers in benching.

F3P More stability, less reduction in overclock values as temperature increases, less voltage required to achieve stable overclocks in realistic situations.

Currently I'm powered out


----------



## MixeraBG

can someone tell how to fix that 45% gpu usage and max core speed 84+c on DBD if i restart me pc everything its ok 70% usage 1200-core speed 60c max but if stop playing for 1 hour this hapen again


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BytesMage*
> 
> Jayombie,
> 
> That is the FQ curve you get when using only sliders to OC. Mine looks very similar. I am only using sliders because my card prefers it over making a curve. Every FQ curve I have made preforms less optimally to the old fashioned sliders. My card also hates added CV. I can give it 100% CV to give it the headroom but I will get less FPS in benching (and lower scores) and games. Not by much but 5 FPS is life sometimes. These cards are crazy lot. They have a mind of their own. I have been adjusting my OC since April. Fine tuning. I am on P3 BIOS with a Non-Extreme. So I am at 125 power limit not 150. But the card does well. I can get 2025 in games and benching with a +25 on the Core. I get 2037 with a +36-38 on core. If I go to +65, it goes up to 2063. Each card reacts its own way. I like to daily run at +38 for 2037MHz in games is fine for me. I game on a 34" 3440x1440p monitor so I know my card will maybe not go as far on air as on 1080p.
> 
> Enjoy this card. I love it. I came from many years of Evga and I do not miss it. I was not impressed by what they were going to present when I bought this card. Not sorry. Happy new Gigabyte owner (My first one from them).


I been playing around with my card for a good couple of months since I owned it, that's the beauty of a new GPU as it presents a new road of technical fine tuning and game heaven....

Just can not hep myself but to push push push,.. for speed...

I could not go any further with my OC due to heat throttling.. Even with my fan curve I had to stop going further as my particular system can only cool so much with its case fans etc.


----------



## gpvecchi

On an italian forum they said that here on OC Net, there's a thread regarding using FTW3 bios on other cards with good results; where is it?


----------



## OcSlave

Loving these cards, got 2 Xtremes as the second will pay for itself within 4 months so I thought it was a really good idea.

Going to make the cash back mining Zcash.

These cards do 1974 at 101 and 102 power using a voltage curve in msi to lock on at 1974mhz at 950mv and there pulling on average 1530 sols.
Cards do more MHz but this is what I've settled on for mining,

Apart from that ive got nothing to say, no games to play either so i'll suppose i'll just mine and google on this pc until something comes along that these cards want to eat up as i'm sure they will be very hungry for games soon.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Go ahead and grab Deus Ex MD. This is a game that truly needs this card to shine. I started it on a R9 390 and hated it. On this Aorus (I play @2075/11955) I continued this game and was blown away.


----------



## TucoPacifico

I totally love this card. It's my 3rd Giga in a roe. Apart from the bad Aorus software, it's a great board, you just need that adequate case venting. I have two 14cm Scythe Glidestream fans front intake, 2 top fans and 1 rear. Gaming at 2075/11955 all day. I tried the latest MSI AB 4.4.0 Beta 20, but went back to beta 8. Only modded Skyrim SE requires me to go down to 2050 on core. But it's a cursed game







Jayo knows what I'm talking about.


----------



## Jayombie

Hey TucoPacifico, haha

Skyrim, oh yes... The curse of a lifetime that one.


----------



## BytesMage

TucoPacifico & Jayombie,

Heavily modded Skyrim, Skyrim SE or fallout 4 are the bane of existence. My card will keep a nice 60fps (which you must so physics does go all out weird on you) but my card will throttle down 3 bins or more at times. Especially indoors and in the inventory or map. Even though these games are more CPU intensive, they still can bring you pain. I had many years ago 2 GTX 580s in sli and Oblivion heaily modded lots of texture packs, Qarl's (QT3) would drop my frames to 5 near Bravil. So yes, These games kill it. Even as old as they are. Oblivion and Morrowind (not online the oldie) still do with mods and textures. Yup. But at least my Frames stay at 60 and I do not cap or vsync them in the driver or INI files.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BytesMage*
> 
> TucoPacifico & Jayombie,
> 
> Heavily modded Skyrim, Skyrim SE or fallout 4 are the bane of existence. My card will keep a nice 60fps (which you must so physics does go all out weird on you) but my card will throttle down 3 bins or more at times. Especially indoors and in the inventory or map. Even though these games are more CPU intensive, they still can bring you pain. I had many years ago 2 GTX 580s in sli and Oblivion heaily modded lots of texture packs, Qarl's (QT3) would drop my frames to 5 near Bravil. So yes, These games kill it. Even as old as they are. Oblivion and Morrowind (not online the oldie) still do with mods and textures. Yup. But at least my Frames stay at 60 and I do not cap or vsync them in the driver or INI files.


My GPU is mainly to feed my addicted nature for modding. My best game to date for modding and all time favourite is Skyrim. I can make my 1080ti bend the knee with ENB...


----------



## Ramalama

Hi Guys,

I've changed the Stock Paste to Grizzly Conductonaut (Liquid Metal), and have some Results:

Card: Aorus 1080ti xTreme (Bios: F3P)
Tested with Furmark (3200x2400 / 8X MSAA)
And this is the MSI Afterburner Settings:

Core Voltage: +100 (Max)
Power Limit: 150 (Max)
Temp Limit: 90 (Max)
Core Clock: +0 (Default)
Mem Clock: +0 (Default)
Fan Speed: 100% (Max)

Results:

Stock Paste:

Time: 0s (Start)
49 C° / 2884 RPM / CPU 139 / Ram 405

Time: +1s (Started Furmark Stresstest)
54 C° / 2863 RPM / CPU 2025 / Ram 5616

Time: +49s (First downclock from 2025Mhz to 2012Mhz)
63 C° / 2872 RPM / CPU 2012 / Ram 5616

Time: +3m 34s (Next downcock from 2012Mhz to 2000Mhz)
74 C° / 2882 RPM / CPU 2000 / Ram 5616

Time: +10m (End)
78 C° / 2876 RPM / CPU 2000 / Ram 5616

Grizzly Conductonaut:

Time: 0s (Start)
40 C° / 2884 RPM / CPU 139 / Ram 405

Time: +1s (Started Furmark Stresstest)
45 C° / 2868 RPM / CPU 2038 / Ram 5616

Time: +51s (First downclock from 2038Mhz to 2025Mhz)
54 C° / 2877 RPM / CPU 2025 / Ram 5616

Time: +3m 31s (Next downcock from 2025Mhz to 2012Mhz)
64 C° / 2880 RPM / CPU 2012 / Ram 5616

Time: +10m (End)
67 C° / 2875 RPM / CPU 2012 / Ram 5616

You can ignore RPM values, its always 100%...
Ram Values doesnt matter too...

The downclock does the Card itself, because of thermals? (I did nothing)

So there is 10°C difference between Stock Paste and LM...

The Card itself boosts now 12Mhz higher...
Dunno if this matter... 12Mhz doesnt make any difference for me...

Cheers


----------



## kfxsti

Got it on and temps are great woot woot.
Has anyone flashed the Xoc bios the Xtreme yet ? I haven't peaked above 33c at 2025


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> 
> 
> Got it on and temps are great woot woot.
> Has anyone flashed the Xoc bios the Xtreme yet ? I haven't peaked above 33c at 2025


May I ask, how hot does your backplate get under load? I know that backplates are supposed to get hot due to heat dissipation, but i sometimes get a bit worried about how hot it gets, even though the GPU core sits at around 55c max under load. I don't have the equipment to get an exact temperature reading of the back of the card, but i certainly cant touch it!


----------



## orbitalwalsh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> May I ask, how hot does your backplate get under load? I know that backplates are supposed to get hot due to heat dissipation, but i sometimes get a bit worried about how hot it gets, even though the GPU core sits at around 55c max under load. I don't have the equipment to get an exact temperature reading of the back of the card, but i certainly cant touch it!


not got a Ti but 1080 Aorus with Alphacool GPX block, current have the stock backplate - also had their G1 with GOX Block and the Alphacool waterbock backplate and this gets far hotter then gigabytes or any other brands backplates- guessing due to alphacool supplying higher watt thermal pads along with their instructions to pretty much cover the whole backside of the card!

My G1 was hot to touch and my 970 with alphacool backplate could burn you! im guessing adding better and more heat pads could conduct more heat from the PCB to the backplate


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> May I ask, how hot does your backplate get under load? I know that backplates are supposed to get hot due to heat dissipation, but i sometimes get a bit worried about how hot it gets, even though the GPU core sits at around 55c max under load. I don't have the equipment to get an exact temperature reading of the back of the card, but i certainly cant touch it!


I'll check here in just a moment for you.
My max load so far had only been 34c on the core though.
Let me run a few runs of firestrike to get the loop warm.


----------



## kfxsti

Above is idle temp



Max I could get after running timespy and firestrike


----------



## oguignant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ramalama*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I've changed the Stock Paste to Grizzly Conductonaut (Liquid Metal), and have some Results:
> 
> Card: Aorus 1080ti xTreme (Bios: F3P)
> Tested with Furmark (3200x2400 / 8X MSAA)
> And this is the MSI Afterburner Settings:
> 
> Core Voltage: +100 (Max)
> Power Limit: 150 (Max)
> Temp Limit: 90 (Max)
> Core Clock: +0 (Default)
> Mem Clock: +0 (Default)
> Fan Speed: 100% (Max)
> 
> Results:
> 
> Stock Paste:
> 
> Time: 0s (Start)
> 49 C° / 2884 RPM / CPU 139 / Ram 405
> 
> Time: +1s (Started Furmark Stresstest)
> 54 C° / 2863 RPM / CPU 2025 / Ram 5616
> 
> Time: +49s (First downclock from 2025Mhz to 2012Mhz)
> 63 C° / 2872 RPM / CPU 2012 / Ram 5616
> 
> Time: +3m 34s (Next downcock from 2012Mhz to 2000Mhz)
> 74 C° / 2882 RPM / CPU 2000 / Ram 5616
> 
> Time: +10m (End)
> 78 C° / 2876 RPM / CPU 2000 / Ram 5616
> 
> Grizzly Conductonaut:
> 
> Time: 0s (Start)
> 40 C° / 2884 RPM / CPU 139 / Ram 405
> 
> Time: +1s (Started Furmark Stresstest)
> 45 C° / 2868 RPM / CPU 2038 / Ram 5616
> 
> Time: +51s (First downclock from 2038Mhz to 2025Mhz)
> 54 C° / 2877 RPM / CPU 2025 / Ram 5616
> 
> Time: +3m 31s (Next downcock from 2025Mhz to 2012Mhz)
> 64 C° / 2880 RPM / CPU 2012 / Ram 5616
> 
> Time: +10m (End)
> 67 C° / 2875 RPM / CPU 2012 / Ram 5616
> 
> You can ignore RPM values, its always 100%...
> Ram Values doesnt matter too...
> 
> The downclock does the Card itself, because of thermals? (I did nothing)
> 
> So there is 10°C difference between Stock Paste and LM...
> 
> The Card itself boosts now 12Mhz higher...
> Dunno if this matter... 12Mhz doesnt make any difference for me...
> 
> Cheers


Hello Ramalama good test, but you forgot to include important fact: ambient temperature









I just did the same test with my Aorus 1080ti non-xtreme (with LM Conductunaut)

Here is my test with Furmark (3200x2400 / 8X MSAA) and ambient temperature: 27c.

(10 minute test)


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *orbitalwalsh*
> 
> not got a Ti but 1080 Aorus with Alphacool GPX block, current have the stock backplate - also had their G1 with GOX Block and the Alphacool waterbock backplate and this gets far hotter then gigabytes or any other brands backplates- guessing due to alphacool supplying higher watt thermal pads along with their instructions to pretty much cover the whole backside of the card!
> 
> My G1 was hot to touch and my 970 with alphacool backplate could burn you! im guessing adding better and more heat pads could conduct more heat from the PCB to the backplate


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> 
> Above is idle temp
> 
> 
> 
> Max I could get after running timespy and firestrike


I'm using an EK backplate. That thing sure does get toasty.

40c under load... I swear that mine feels much much warmer, closer to 80c! Guess I'll just have to buy a temperature gun to know for sure.

HWmonitor is displaying SYSTIN and CPUTIN as over 100c, but i assume they are just false readings. Definitely a lot more warm are coming out this rig than my previous builds!

Thanks for your replies.


----------



## orbitalwalsh

return of these bad boys


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *haha216*
> 
> I'm using an EK backplate. That thing sure does get toasty.
> 
> 40c under load... I swear that mine feels much much warmer, closer to 80c! Guess I'll just have to buy a temperature gun to know for sure.
> 
> HWmonitor is displaying SYSTIN and CPUTIN as over 100c, but i assume they are just false readings. Definitely a lot more warm are coming out this rig than my previous builds!
> 
> Thanks for your replies.


I'm going to pick up a ek backplate and see if there is a difference in the temps. I don't like the way the stock fit back on here. It's doing its job I suppose, but I want to test with both lol


----------



## BytesMage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayombie*
> 
> My GPU is mainly to feed my addicted nature for modding. My best game to date for modding and all time favourite is Skyrim. I can make my 1080ti bend the knee with ENB...


Modding any TES game is life for me. I have several Skyrim installs on several computers just to have mods. Yes, it can make the game cry mama. But better than that arrow in the knee. Still with this card and over 220 mods on Skyrim, enb, sweet fx, no issue. Game stays a nice 60fps. But I will say I spend way more time modding it, fixing it than playing it. But isn't that grand! I love this GPU. The Aorus has been a good buy for me. It handles what I throw at it with ease. Have fun!


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Anyone running this gpu with a NZXT G12 and AIO? I was considering getting a corsair h90 with the G12 just because of temps and noise. Right now I have the fans at 100% and i'm still getting 75C with the front panel of my case off (s340)


----------



## Malamen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Anyone running this gpu with a NZXT G12 and AIO? I was considering getting a corsair h90 with the G12 just because of temps and noise. Right now I have the fans at 100% and i'm still getting 75C with the front panel of my case off (s340)


I was thinking the same but I'm not sure if expending $200 is worth it, maybe its a better idea to get the waterforce model, is just $80 more than the plain aorus and it looks a lot better thant the g12 mod IMO.


----------



## Zenkiut

Hello Guys how are you?

Im new in this forum because have a lot issues on my Aourus 1080 TI Xtreme. I have i think the same issues they have others. In a some games demainding much power this game crash. I test with GTA 5 and Ghost Recon Wildlands. This 2 games only take a 10 o 15 minutes then crash. I update the bios to F3P (last version in website) i update the Aorus software and i have same issues. In only i can play this games was underclocking the card using in "Silent mode" it mean 1500 mhz core. In OC or Gaming mode its mean 1700 or more this games crash. I dont know what to do now. Im wating rma of gigabye but i dont have any answer today.

My specs are:

Intel i7 4790K
16 GB Corsair Vengance
Mother Gigabyte Ultra Durable GA-Z97-HD3P ver 1.0
PSU XFX XXX Semi modular pro edition 80 plus bronce.
2 SSD 120 GB OCZ Vertex 3
1 HDD 1 TB Toshiba
SO: Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit

Someone can resolve this issues tweaking with some software?

Sorry for my band englinsh im from Argentina.

Im so sad with this situation i spend a lot of money and i trust in the brand.

Regards and thansk again


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malamen*
> 
> I was thinking the same but I'm not sure if expending $200 is worth it, maybe its a better idea to get the waterforce model, is just $80 more than the plain aorus and it looks a lot better thant the g12 mod IMO.


It would cost me about 130 to buy the parts. I already have my Aorus for a few months so selling at a loss and buying a new one would probably be around the same price as buying the parts. Plus I'd be able to use the g12 and AIO on future cards provided that the spacing on the screws doesn't change.

as a side note, I used liquid metal on my card yesterday and there was no change from using Thermal Grizzly Cryonaut. That means that Cryonaut is already really good, or my case is really choking the card regardless of what TIM I use.


----------



## Malamen

Exactly I have the same dilemma, I used liquid metal = no change, but if I remove the front panel of my Phanteks P400s I can get -10°C, that drop in temp allows it to stay below 80, so my card can keep the core speed of 2000, which is good enought for me. I love my case, but the airflow is not up to the task. So I have two choices: build a new front panel with a big mesh or replace the P400 with something like the new Define C meshify.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malamen*
> 
> Exactly I have the same dilemma, I used liquid metal = no change, but if I remove the front panel of my Phanteks P400s I can get -10°C, that drop in temp allows it to stay below 80, so my card can keep the core speed of 2000, which is good enought for me. I love my case, but the airflow is not up to the task. So I have two choices: build a new front panel with a big mesh or replace the P400 with something like the new Define C meshify.


That's why I was considering the AIO route. A new case with all the appropriate airflow will cost around the same as getting the g12 and AIO..although a case might be better because I don't like pump noise while idle. What are your temps and what is your fan % when gaming? I don't like mine above 80% because it has a higher pitched whirrrr that gets through my headphones at around 70%. My headset has noise cancelling but it can't cancel that frequency (turtle beach elite 800) at 80% fan in witcher 3 at 1440p I get 75C with the front panel off. Front panel on gets me over 80 and then crashes


----------



## Malamen

Playing Quake Champions @1440p can get my card as hot as 89C, it does not crash, it just get the core down to 1898, that´s with the fans at 100%. I used to think that the card was faulty but this is my 2nd card, same temps. Its just the bad airflow as proved by removing the front panel. I think I can sell the P400S and get the meshify for only $10 more, but no fan controller, no RGB


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malamen*
> 
> Playing Quake Champions @1440p can get my card as hot as 89C, it does not crash, it just get the core down to 1898, that´s with the fans at 100%. I used to think that the card was faulty but this is my 2nd card, same temps. Its just the bad airflow as proved by removing the front panel. I think I can sell the P400S and get the meshify for only $10 more, but no fan controller, no RGB


Yours gets mighty toasty. I think my crash at over 85C is b/c of my overclock. Stock it won't crash but like you it drops to 1800 and even 1700s. My overclock is mild, only up to 2012 once temps settle. Stock mine goes to 2000 until temps settle then its at 1974. But as mild as it is, it doesn't like 85C and will crash with the front panel on. I just saw my Micro Center has a g12 and various AIO. I'm tempted to say the least. They have an excellent return policy.


----------



## MixeraBG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MixeraBG*
> 
> can someone tell how to fix that 45% gpu usage and max core speed 84+c on DBD if i restart me pc everything its ok 70% usage 1200-core speed 60c max but if stop playing for 1 hour this hapen again


are you using shadowplay in last driver have someproblem with shoadow play even if not recording try to disable that aplication


----------



## TucoPacifico

You needs case venting. Vent the case. My card reaches 57C highest. Also, the AORUS software is bad for ya, your fans will not spin beyond the second point on the curve. Use MSI Afterburner 4.4.0. beta 8.


----------



## MixeraBG

if you using shadow play from Geforce experiance can couse oveheating try to disable this program and watch you clock speed with msi afterburner


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> YUse MSI Afterburner 4.4.0. beta 8.


Beta 12...


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> You needs case venting. Vent the case. My card reaches 57C highest. Also, the AORUS software is bad for ya, your fans will not spin beyond the second point on the curve. Use MSI Afterburner 4.4.0. beta 8.


I agree that my case is an issue, but paying for a new case is a similar cost to getting an AIO with the g12. What is your case, ambient temps, and fan percentage? Thanks for the info.

I'm not using Aorus software, only afterburner. With the side panel off and with the front panel off I still get 75C at 80% fan (which is too loud for me). I also want to keep noise in check so 100% fan is out of the question. But to play devil's advocate, it still reaches 76C with 100% fan.


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Malamen*
> 
> I was thinking the same but I'm not sure if expending $200 is worth it, maybe its a better idea to get the waterforce model, is just $80 more than the plain aorus and it looks a lot better thant the g12 mod IMO.


Add another $100-$150 to that and get yourself a custom water loop for CPU and GPU. Will be well worth it and loads of fun to build


----------



## Kutalion

Hey guys, i must admit im lazy to shift through 186 pages of info. So i'll just ask, is there any difference between 1080 Ti Aorus and Extreme variant?
Aside from 1 year of warranty and backplate RGB.

Also is there a warranty sticker or is mounting a waterblock allowed?


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BytesMage*
> 
> Modding any TES game is life for me. I have several Skyrim installs on several computers just to have mods. Yes, it can make the game cry mama. But better than that arrow in the knee. Still with this card and over 220 mods on Skyrim, enb, sweet fx, no issue. Game stays a nice 60fps. But I will say I spend way more time modding it, fixing it than playing it. But isn't that grand! I love this GPU. The Aorus has been a good buy for me. It handles what I throw at it with ease. Have fun!


Look me up on steam mate !

We talk Skyrim and modding the frak out of it, haha

http://steamcommunity.com/profiles/76561197970610256/


----------



## BytesMage

I did some Supo testing today. I say it is not bad for my old computer. If anything bottleneck it would be this oldie CPU 3770K and MB for sure. Still it keeps a nice 4.8 GHz OC.
Not bad at all.


----------



## BytesMage

Jayombie,

I will. Thanks.

I have a new Skyrim game going. Only Lvl 48 right now. But I have 4 followers and a Stray Dog keeping me company. Trying on SSE which I say is a challenge without SKSE. I miss that much.

But gaming with this Aorus is way way fun. I had a GTX 780ti previous and this is like heaven compared. Although the 780ti was no slouch. I put in in an older gamer comp I have that has a really modded Skyrim with all the Real Vision ENB mods. I added all that he recommended. The 780ti handles it but FPS can crawl sometimes.


----------



## ttnuagmada

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Hey guys, i must admit im lazy to shift through 186 pages of info. So i'll just ask, is there any difference between 1080 Ti Aorus and Extreme variant?
> Aside from 1 year of warranty and backplate RGB.
> 
> Also is there a warranty sticker or is mounting a waterblock allowed?


I have 1 regular and one Xtreme in my watercooled build. I tested them individually on air prior to putting them under water. For 100% game stable clocks, the non-xtreme topped out at 2037/6150ish and the Xtreme topped out at 2100/6150ish.

Once under water, the non-xtreme tops out at 2100/6210 for game stable, and the Xtreme tops out at 2137/6237. So on air, my Xtreme was noticeably better on the core, but once under water, there wasn't a huge difference. VRAM was same for both pretty much. The Xtreme will stay stable enough at higher clocks long enough to run benchmarks, where the regular won't go much beyond it's 100% stable settings. I can finish Superposition at 2178 on the Xtreme card.


----------



## Moz007

Still no update for led option missing in aorus graphics engine ?


----------



## Jason-uk

Hi guys
Ive got my Gigabyte Aorus 1080 ti Extreme a couple of days ago and today ive done a little overclocking and benchmarking and this is my Superposition Benchmark @ 4k optimized setting 

I swapped out GTX 980ti SLI for this 1080ti and im very happy with going back to a single card setup , gaming is smoother and fps are higher in some games and lower in others but only by a few fps:thumb: .


----------



## gpvecchi

Do you use kernel mode or user mode in Afterburner settings? What's the difference?


----------



## warpedsoul

Hello all. I got the Xtreme 1080ti and loving the card so far. Just like everyone here, I'm wanting to get the most out of the card. However, I'm not an expert at OC'ing a GPU. I have the Gigabyte Engine software, and have tried some sliders but crash playing PUBG. So for now, I use the OC mode in the Engine software. I haven't read every post as it would take weeks, but a few posts say the Engine software isn't good for OC'ing, and to use AfterBurner, which I have installed.

Can someone give me some tips on some settings and things to try?

Also, can I have the Gigabyte Engine installed to control the RGB lights, and still use Afterburner for the OC, or do I set the lights then uninstall the Gigabyte software?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## ALSTER868

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *warpedsoul*
> 
> Hello all. I got the Xtreme 1080ti and loving the card so far. Just like everyone here, I'm wanting to get the most out of the card. However, I'm not an expert at OC'ing a GPU. I have the Gigabyte Engine software, and have tried some sliders but crash playing PUBG. So for now, I use the OC mode in the Engine software. I haven't read every post as it would take weeks, but a few posts say the Engine software isn't good for OC'ing, and to use AfterBurner, which I have installed.
> 
> Can someone give me some tips on some settings and things to try?
> 
> Also, can I have the Gigabyte Engine installed to control the RGB lights, and still use Afterburner for the OC, or do I set the lights then uninstall the Gigabyte software?
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Your card already has a pretty decent factory overclock so don't hope for too much. Try starting with core OCing.. add some +30-40 to the core and run Heaven/Fire Strike and see what happens. If it crashes, roll back a 10-15 MHz and run those benches again until you get stable runs. If it's stable you can add some extra +10-20 MHz. Then try the memory.. add +400-500 and run benchmarks or games. It's pretty easy.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

I added the g12 with the kraken x42 yesterday. It is extremely quiet both under load and idle. The new nzxt pumps really are silent. I had to touch it to make sure it was on. My temps aren't the best. For some reason I'm getting 55C with my noctua 140mm fan, where others are reporting temps in the 40s with AIO coolers. Right now, I have the rad as exhaust in my case


----------



## Jason-uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> I added the g12 with the kraken x42 yesterday. It is extremely quiet both under load and idle. The new nzxt pumps really are silent. I had to touch it to make sure it was on. My temps aren't the best. For some reason I'm getting 55C with my noctua 140mm fan, where others are reporting temps in the 40s with AIO coolers. Right now, I have the rad as exhaust in my case


Make sure that the Pump is running at full speed ,and check which fan connector on the motherboard you have used and is running at full speed to ,if this is the way you have connected the pump


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason-uk*
> 
> Make sure that the Pump is running at full speed ,and check which fan connector on the motherboard you have used and is running at full speed to ,if this is the way you have connected the pump


Thanks for the reply. Should the liquid temp be lower than the gpu ? Everything is running correctly according to CAM. I think maybe the Noctua might not be enough to get the temps below 50. I played with undervolting the card. I notice at 1000 mv I get lower power consumption and the temps stay around 51. Overall I don't mind the temps as the whole PC is quiet even under load which was my main reason for switching to this combo. My overclock is the same as before the mod but at a lower voltage now.

If anyone is wondering about this mod, you do get to keep your backplate on and don't even have to do anything to it while installing the g12.


----------



## simontomi

Looks like I've lost the silicon lottery, the VRAM on my Aorus Xtreme can only be overclocked with an additional 145 Mhz. Above this, I get crashes, and at around +200 Mhz, I get artifacts. +400 and up crashes and glitches so bad, that I need to boot into safe mode to disable MSI Afterburner running at startup.


----------



## TucoPacifico

I just received information from Gigabyte support, that the fan curve bug in the AORUS Enfine software was resolved with version 1.14. They currently offer version 1.15. However, I am pushing the support to take a stance on my other complaints, here's my original message to them:

Dear Gigabyte Support,

I am (or rather was) using 1.09. I think by now you should be well aware of the problems, because they are not limited to my computer, it is global and everybody is recommending uninstalling the AORUS Software and switching to MSI Afterburner immediately.

Why would I take the time to record videos for you? How are you going to motivate me to do it? It is your software and your business to get the software right. Can I expect some form of gratification for becoming your software tester? My time is very limited and has a value.

_I have more to complain about the software (1.09):
1. (already mentioned) Does not remember more than 2 points on fan curve resulting in GPU overheat!

2. The GUI is very small and precision in setting values is impossible.

3. The GUI does not have any form of feedback informing a user that an option was clicked, like animated buttons or shape/color changing option buttons. Very bad experience, like using some kind of amateur freeware.

4. The GUI does not have the option to key in numeric values from keyboard (only VERY clunky and too small sliders).

This is supposed to be the software for a high-end product?
What can I expect as gratification for becoming a software tester?

I am about to write a review of the graphic card, but first I want to give you a chance to address the problems with the software. I will not wait too long and hope for your understanding and prompt reaction._

So now I asked again about points 2, 3 and 4. Hoping to help them make the software worth using







. For now I am staying with MSI AB 4.4.0. beta 8.


----------



## Epseni

Hi guys,

thanks for the great discussions on this thread, I think I have now read all of it during the last few days as fresh owner of Aorus 1080 Ti non-extreme version







. I just wanted to join the discussion to share my results and keep track of further changes to BIOS and other relevant information regarding the card.

My current highest stable settings for AB 4.4.0 Beta 12 are as follows:

*Power Limit: 150%* (goes up to 135% during Superposition and around 115% on Heaven)
*Core clock: +75 MHz*
*Memory Clock: +800 Mhz*
*Fan Speed: 100%* (for sake of benchmarking, too loud for general use IMO)

My CPU is 6700K @ 4,5 GHz and memory 32 Gb of quite average Kingston DDR4. Enclosure is Fractal Design R5 with default fans. CPU has Noctua NH-d14 on it. PSU is Seasonic 660W XP2 Platinum.

Stock settings, fan speed 100%:


Overclocked:


I ran the benchmark multiple times ramping up the core and memory clock and improved from 9318 at stock (100% fan speed though for fair comparison) to 10244. I also read about possible reduction in actual speed when over-overclocking the memory, but at least for Superposition I had throughout improving results all the way up to +800 Mhz. Pushing the core and memory further than that I lost stability and I am still unsure whether these settings will work at all for actual gaming. I did this more out of curiosity how the card can perform when pushed to the limit rather than actual game settings.

Going forward I want to push the fan speed down to around 75% where it starts to get bit noisy. With default fan curve it goes up to 74-75C when benchmarking, but with quite low noise custom curve I can keep it around 70 C.

Overall I am quite satisfied with the card so far coming from MSI 980 Ti. I use it for HTC Vive gaming at 2.0 supersampling and PUBG 4k/60 Hz gaming due to having Samsung KS9000 as monitor currently. It seems to fit this purpose well due to delivering pretty much stable 60 FPS with V-sync throughout the game session. And PUBG is certainly not the best optimized game out there







.

So thanks again for sharing your experiences with Aorus and looking forward to enjoy the horsepower for great looking gaming


----------



## akajay

Is it me or does the xtreme card get extremely hot? I have it under water with a 6700k at 4.6Ghz and my radiators are exhausting warmish hot air. GPU temp when gaming is around 45c and cpu is around 50c.

I am using a EK-XE360 and a EK-PE120 with AP-15s in Pull full blast which should be more than enough rads for a single 1080ti and 6700k. But both rads get pretty warm, I did not have this problem with a 1070.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akajay*
> 
> Is it me or does the xtreme card get extremely hot? I have it under water with a 6700k at 4.6Ghz and my radiators are exhausting warmish hot air. GPU temp when gaming is around 45c and cpu is around 50c.
> 
> I am using a EK-XE360 and a EK-PE120 with AP-15s in Pull full blast which should be more than enough rads for a single 1080ti and 6700k. But both rads get pretty warm, I did not have this problem with a 1070.


That's what I'm getting on my aio cooler. Nzxt x42. I undervolted to keep temps between 45-55 depending on the game. If you're at 1.093 prepare to toast. I keep mine at 1.000. I don't mind the temps as I went this route for noise


----------



## Remontoire

I'm going to but an Xtreme version of this card. Do I get the drivers from the Gigabyte website or from the nvidia website, or are they exactly the same? Also do I need to bother with the bios download from the Gigabyte website F3P is the most recent it has the following info:

Release for MIC Memory
NVIDIA Source BIOS Version: 86.02.39.00.9E
Base/Boost: 1607/1721 MHz
Memory: 5616 MHz
TGP: Default/max:250W/375W
For F1~F3 BIOS flash

To be honest I wont bother oc'ing it


----------



## magnusavr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remontoire*
> 
> I'm going to but an Xtreme version of this card. Do I get the drivers from the Gigabyte website or from the nvidia website, or are they exactly the same? Also do I need to bother with the bios download from the Gigabyte website F3P is the most recent it has the following info:
> 
> Release for MIC Memory
> NVIDIA Source BIOS Version: 86.02.39.00.9E
> Base/Boost: 1607/1721 MHz
> Memory: 5616 MHz
> TGP: Default/max:250W/375W
> For F1~F3 BIOS flash
> 
> To be honest I wont bother oc'ing it


Always go with the drivers from the nvidia site


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akajay*
> 
> Is it me or does the xtreme card get extremely hot? I have it under water with a 6700k at 4.6Ghz and my radiators are exhausting warmish hot air. GPU temp when gaming is around 45c and cpu is around 50c.
> 
> I am using a EK-XE360 and a EK-PE120 with AP-15s in Pull full blast which should be more than enough rads for a single 1080ti and 6700k. But both rads get pretty warm, I did not have this problem with a 1070.


I'm running a Xspc 360, and a Alphacool 360 with my 7700k delidded and oced to 4.8 - both gpu and CPU under water
My gpu temps never break above 38c and my Cpu bounces between 48-56c- none of the fans on the rads are maxed. But I'm using Noiseblockers . If any of that helps.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> I'm running a Xspc 360, and a Alphacool 360 with my 7700k delidded and oced to 4.8 - both gpu and CPU under water
> My gpu temps never break above 38c and my Cpu bounces between 48-56c- none of the fans on the rads are maxed. But I'm using Noiseblockers . If any of that helps.


Damn I was hoping your systems were remotely close to each other. He's decided to just "deal with it" That would drive me nuuuutsss. I'll keep you posted if any breakthroughs occur. Thanks man!


----------



## Fediuld

I bought the Xtreme and fit it today. What a card.









How do I update the bios? It states it has the F2, but on the website is the F3. The utility says that there is no new version.


----------



## pingolino

Hello,

I bought this card

https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-WB-11GD#kf

Am i at the right place?


----------



## kfxsti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Damn I was hoping your systems were remotely close to each other. He's decided to just "deal with it" That would drive me nuuuutsss. I'll keep you posted if any breakthroughs occur. Thanks man!


Anytime man.


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pingolino*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I bought this card
> 
> https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUSX-WB-11GD#kf
> 
> Am i at the right place?


Yeah


----------



## coc_james

Hi all, just wondering if ya'll are grouping the Waterforce editions in here as well. There's a small thread going for it but not much activity. In having an issue with mine and if anyone here has insight, I'd appreciate it.

So AORUS Extreme Waterforce won't volt past 1.063 in MSI AB. With the max volts at 1.063 my wall is 2113mhz in Superposition 1080p extreme. Score maxes at 6424. Max temps never exceed 45, and clocks don't fall. Wondering why I can't go to 1.096 volts. Is it BIOS limited or am I missing something?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> Hi all, just wondering if ya'll are grouping the Waterforce editions in here as well. There's a small thread going for it but not much activity. In having an issue with mine and if anyone here has insight, I'd appreciate it.
> 
> So AORUS Extreme Waterforce won't volt past 1.063 in MSI AB. With the max volts at 1.063 my wall is 2113mhz in Superposition 1080p extreme. Score maxes at 6424. Max temps never exceed 45, and clocks don't fall. Wondering why I can't go to 1.096 volts. Is it BIOS limited or am I missing something?


Check out KedarWolf's NVSMI .bat file trick.


----------



## m4x89

Hi all,
since I have replaced my old 980Ti Superclocked+ with a brand new Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti I'm expecting during gaming an hard system restart (like a power interrupt) without any error or dumps in the subsequent boot.
Temps are OK (63 max for CPU and 75 for the GPU with custom fan curve via Afterburner).

I've already tested the GPU with Furmark and 3D Mark and the reboot can happen after 20 min or 4 hours of stress test.

My current rig is:

PSU Corsair HX750i
CPU 6700k @ 4,4Ghz 1,28V (rock-solid)
MoBo Maximus Hero VIII

The card is currently connected thru a single 12V rail which splits in 2 8-pin connectors, maybe it's better to use 2 separated lines?

Thanks to all


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4x89*
> 
> Hi all,
> since I have replaced my old 980Ti Superclocked+ with a brand new Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti I'm expecting during gaming an hard system restart (like a power interrupt) without any error or dumps in the subsequent boot.
> Temps are OK (63 max for CPU and 75 for the GPU with custom fan curve via Afterburner).
> 
> I've already tested the GPU with Furmark and 3D Mark and the reboot can happen after 20 min or 4 hours of stress test.
> 
> My current rig is:
> 
> PSU Corsair HX750i
> CPU 6700k @ 4,4Ghz 1,28V (rock-solid)
> MoBo Maximus Hero VIII
> 
> The card is currently connected thru a single 12V rail which splits in 2 8-pin connectors, maybe it's better to use 2 separated lines?
> 
> Thanks to all


are you running single rail or multi rail?

What does event viewer say when you crash?


----------



## m4x89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> are you running single rail or multi rail?
> 
> What does event viewer say when you crash?


In Corsair Link it is selected "Multi-Rail".

Which kind of error ID I must check in EV?


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4x89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> are you running single rail or multi rail?
> 
> What does event viewer say when you crash?
> 
> 
> 
> In Corsair Link it is selected "Multi-Rail".
> 
> Which kind of error ID I must check in EV?
Click to expand...

Set it to single rail.

Look for errors in event viewer at the time of the crash. Kernal errors, driver errors, bccode, etc.


----------



## m4x89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> Set it to single rail.
> 
> Look for errors in event viewer at the time of the crash. Kernal errors, driver errors, bccode, etc.


Thanks for your response.

Regarding the errors in Event Viewer, I obtain Critical errors Kernel-Power related due to sudden reboot.
Now I test with the Single Rail setting.


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4x89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> Set it to single rail.
> 
> Look for errors in event viewer at the time of the crash. Kernal errors, driver errors, bccode, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your response.
> 
> Regarding the errors in Event Viewer, I obtain Critical errors Kernel-Power related due to sudden reboot.
> Now I test with the Single Rail setting.
Click to expand...

Can you give the descriptors for the critical errors?


----------



## pingolino

Hello Everyone,

So I have bought Aorus 1080ti extreme with waterblock. Needless to say I had a very good deal going on as i sold my 295x2 for 1000 bucks NZD and bought this for 1300 NZD from amazon. I have my own custom loop with 3 radiators and on stress test fire strike my GPU C never goes above 33 C. When it idles, it idles at 19 C. While gaming, never saw it go above 27 C.

I have no problem putting it up to 2.1 ghz at 6000 mhz memory. But I cant go above that no matter what I do with voltage. Is this really the end all and be all of this GPU? With the temp's I have, I feel as though I can go much much much much higher.

Several problems though. I think that aorus OC utility simply sucks balls. In fact, If i install it i will get lower 3dmark scores on firestrike (from 19500 to 1900 even 18500!!). So i deleted that stuff out and installed EVGA precision. I always used afterburner though, but that does not let me change the voltage ?! (***!!)

So, is there anyone here, anywhere with a nice watercooling loop that has managed to get above 2.1 ghz?! And how??

Please let me know.

System :

4820 k at 4.6 ghz OC
16 gigs of RAM at 3200 mhz
Bunch of SSD's bla bla bla
1 x 360, 1 x 280, 1 x 140 rads, EK water pump with high pressure, etc etc.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pingolino*
> 
> Hello Everyone,
> 
> So I have bought Aorus 1080ti extreme with waterblock. Needless to say I had a very good deal going on as i sold my 295x2 for 1000 bucks NZD and bought this for 1300 NZD from amazon. I have my own custom loop with 3 radiators and on stress test fire strike my GPU C never goes above 33 C. When it idles, it idles at 19 C. While gaming, never saw it go above 27 C.
> 
> I have no problem putting it up to 2.1 ghz at 6000 mhz memory. But I cant go above that no matter what I do with voltage. Is this really the end all and be all of this GPU? With the temp's I have, I feel as though I can go much much much much higher.
> 
> Several problems though. I think that aorus OC utility simply sucks balls. In fact, If i install it i will get lower 3dmark scores on firestrike (from 19500 to 1900 even 18500!!). So i deleted that stuff out and installed EVGA precision. I always used afterburner though, but that does not let me change the voltage ?! (***!!)
> 
> So, is there anyone here, anywhere with a nice watercooling loop that has managed to get above 2.1 ghz?! And how??
> 
> Please let me know.
> 
> System :
> 
> 4820 k at 4.6 ghz OC
> 16 gigs of RAM at 3200 mhz
> Bunch of SSD's bla bla bla
> 1 x 360, 1 x 280, 1 x 140 rads, EK water pump with high pressure, etc etc.


Going above 2.1ghz requires some serious chip lottery luck. A very very select handful can do it legitimately and still maintain it in intensive workloads (i.e. 4K+ rendering). I think there are a few folks with chillers that can get the GPU below 20C to enable 2113/2126mhz type speeds. Some managed to do 2126 without chillers but with the XOC BIOS, however, I'm extremely skeptical of those XOC clocks are truly 2126mhz+ due to the regressive nature of the BIOS.

Avoid the Aorus software, its cancer. MSI Afterburner has everything you need.

GP102 is extremely temperature sensitive, arguably more so than voltage. The rough trend is you get 13mhz for every 5C you go below 40C. I think you simply hit the limit of what your ASIC can do for the temperatures your loop can provide. Any further requires either extreme ambient temps or a phase change unit.


----------



## pingolino

Right, well this is much different from my good old 295x2 I had for 4 years.....

So you saying even with bios changes and so forth, there is no possibility of ever going above 2.1 ghz? That sucks man, I thought my C is way good and proper to go above that.

I just made a video of a BF1 dash with the clock speeds etc at the top left corner with the clock speeds and mem speeds and fps etc, at ultra settings.






Man, my 295x2 used to hit 60 C on water, and i was pumping so much voltage through it. max score i got on it was 18600. But that was not suistanable, it was go for glory OC.

Right now i get 20k on firestrike. But I don't want it to end there....I was thinking I was going to get 21k easy.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pingolino*
> 
> Right, well this is much different from my good old 295x2 I had for 4 years.....
> 
> So you saying even with bios changes and so forth, there is no possibility of ever going above 2.1 ghz? That sucks man, I thought my C is way good and proper to go above that.
> 
> I just made a video of a BF1 dash with the clock speeds etc at the top left corner with the clock speeds and mem speeds and fps etc, at ultra settings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Man, my 295x2 used to hit 60 C on water, and i was pumping so much voltage through it. max score i got on it was 18600. But that was not suistanable, it was go for glory OC.
> 
> Right now i get 20k on firestrike. But I don't want it to end there....I was thinking I was going to get 21k easy.


Even with our watercooled systems (I'm running 3x 480mm rads, dual D5s) our temps are peanuts in the realm of ASIC stability. I mean, going from the >60C of air cooling down to 40C only yields roughly 50ish mhz. Go lower than 30C and you will see the magic happen.


----------



## pingolino

could i please have a small short lecture on what ASIC stability really is?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pingolino*
> 
> could i please have a small short lecture on what ASIC stability really is?


Basically, ASICs (or we call it chips) get more stable to colder they are and the higher the voltage they get (within reason).

The reason for this is chips (ASICs) work by electrons going through them at very specific rates through very specific channels. You need a specific voltage in order to drive the transistors within the chip to switch (or run) at specific speed (in Mhz). Obviously, the most well known phenomenon is more voltage = more speed, you can see why because it simply allows the transistors to switch faster. However, voltage alone has a hard limit, it spikes the chip temperatures a lot and after a certain point, the high voltage causes the electrons to short across the contacts on the chip thus inducing what we overclockers commonly call the Voltage Ceiling (aka the max voltage for a chip where you can keep increasing the mV but you get no extra performance or even instability after a certain point).

Temperature has the effect of giving the electrons more chaotic energy, this means, hotter chips have electrons that are more energetic and are more prone to jumping across contacts or moving through transistors/traces at unpredictable rates. This is why we notice the phenomenon of higher temperature chips tend to be less stable at a given frequency (because the electrons are jumping all over the place). As you get colder, the electrons are operating in a much less chaotic environment. This means for a given voltage, they move around the chip with more predictability and will stay within their boundaries better.

What does the above knowledge give us as an overclocker?
1. More voltage= more frequency until you hit the ceiling, or temperatures are out of control
2. Lower temperatures reduce the voltage we need for a given frequency, or conversely, it gives us more frequency for a given voltage
3. Lower temperatures also reduce power, on GP102 this means less power throttling
4. Voltage ceiling is determined by the architecture, manufacturing node and support packaging

If you are chasing benchmark scores, check out this BIOS.

GP102_arcticstorm1.zip 156k .zip file


Increases the power limit to 432W, gives you slightly better scores.


----------



## m4x89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> Set it to single rail.
> 
> Look for errors in event viewer at the time of the crash. Kernal errors, driver errors, bccode, etc.


Thank you James, setting in single-rail the PSU did the job!


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4x89*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> Set it to single rail.
> 
> Look for errors in event viewer at the time of the crash. Kernal errors, driver errors, bccode, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you James, setting in single-rail the PSU did the job!
Click to expand...

You're welcome


----------



## migrained

Hi everyone,

I just bought the WB edition and Im excited. I realized that there are 2 plugs installed by default in the INLET and OUTLET. How do I remove them? I can't figure out how to remove them since there was no tool provided in the box.

Sorry for the newbie question as Im really a newbie in building a watercooled custom loop PC.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Gary2015

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *migrained*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I just bought the WB edition and Im excited. I realized that there are 2 plugs installed by default in the INLET and OUTLET. How do I remove them? I can't figure out how to remove them since there was no tool provided in the box.
> 
> Sorry for the newbie question as Im really a newbie in building a watercooled custom loop PC.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Use a HEX wrench.


----------



## migrained

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gary2015*
> 
> Use a HEX wrench.


This hex wrench is not provided in the box am i Right?


----------



## Gary2015

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *migrained*
> 
> This hex wrench is not provided in the box am i Right?


No its not, You have to buy your own.


----------



## migrained

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gary2015*
> 
> No its not, You have to buy your own.


Thanks for the reply! Do you know what hex wrench size do I need?


----------



## foylemaa

Hello

Just thought i would post up my final stable OC for my AORUS GTX 1080 Ti with the F3 Bios.

Been reading this forum for a few weeks now and it has been very helpful.

My card will hold at 2038mhz and temps are around 55 to 60 depending on the game.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4x89*
> 
> Thank you James, setting in single-rail the PSU did the job!


Sorry for the OT: I have a 860AXi, how did you set to single rail?


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *m4x89*
> 
> Thank you James, setting in single-rail the PSU did the job!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for the OT: I have a 860AXi, how did you set to single rail?
Click to expand...

Via Corsair Link


----------



## m4x89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> Set it to single rail.
> 
> Look for errors in event viewer at the time of the crash. Kernal errors, driver errors, bccode, etc.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> Via Corsair Link


+1 also AXi series can set an higher or lower OCP limit so maybe you won't really need to deactivate the Multi-Rail.


----------



## x Swift x

Hey guys,

I have 2 1080Ti's set up at the moment, and currently testing some overclocking. I've noticed that with the same overclock profile (linked on MSI Afterburner), that one of my cards has 500mhz~ less memory clock, whilst usually slightly more core mhz -


http://imgur.com/vU0Px


Can anyone assist with the reasoning behind this? Both are exactly the same card make and model (Gigabyte Aorus Xtreme).

Thanks


----------



## MaKeN

Bought one waterforce also , cant wait till it comes


----------



## Fediuld

Guys, which waterblock to choose for the card?
The EK, which is not compatible with the backplate or the Phantek one which is compatible with the backplate? (are there any others?).
Also is the EK backplate better than the factory one?

Cheers


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Does anyone elses Aorus clock way above advertised out of the box? When I press reset in Afterburner and just monitor what it's doing, it clocks up above 1900Mhz on it's own. I'm having a really hard time overclocking it because when the temps are around 60C, it seems happy to run at around 2025Mhz and +400 memory. Problem is I don't want to run at 100% fans all the time because I care about noise. I haven't messed with it too much yet but above 80C it seems like it can only do 1936Mhz and +225 memory.

Does that sound normal or am I doing something wrong? It seems really weird that the tiny voltage drops from the 20C temperature increase are responsible for such a massive drop in clocks. I hate GPU Boost so ******* much.


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Does anyone elses Aorus clock way above advertised out of the box? When I press reset in Afterburner and just monitor what it's doing, it clocks up above 1900Mhz on it's own. I'm having a really hard time overclocking it because when the temps are around 60C, it seems happy to run at around 2025Mhz and +400 memory. Problem is I don't want to run at 100% fans all the time because I care about noise. I haven't messed with it too much yet but above 80C it seems like it can only do 1936Mhz and +225 memory.
> 
> Does that sound normal or am I doing something wrong? It seems really weird that the tiny voltage drops from the 20C temperature increase are responsible for such a massive drop in clocks. I hate GPU Boost so ******* much.


The fans cannot be heard until they hit 73%. Make a custom fan profile like this one. The card will clock to 2025 90% of the time, without actually overclocking it. (see my settings).


----------



## Cookybiscuit

Maybe you have a super duper amazing case, but in my setup the fans are loud-ish at 73%. I wouldn't really want to go over 75%. I already set up a custom curve to where it only hits 75% at 90C, it's usually in the low to mid 60's.

I see you haven't touched the voltage slider, I've heard of people recommending to not do that on these. Does it just make it more unstable? Using a custom curve, mine is stable at 1.012v at 1936mhz (ran it for a month like that now), but even at 1.093 it doesn't seem to be stable at 1949mhz, but I need to test it more.

I think I just got a crappy overclocker, the highest I got in Superposition 4K was 10118 I think.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Maybe you have a super duper amazing case, but in my setup the fans are loud-ish at 73%. I wouldn't really want to go over 75%. I already set up a custom curve to where it only hits 75% at 90C, it's usually in the low to mid 60's.
> 
> I see you haven't touched the voltage slider, I've heard of people recommending to not do that on these. Does it just make it more unstable? Using a custom curve, mine is stable at 1.012v at 1936mhz (ran it for a month like that now), but even at 1.093 it doesn't seem to be stable at 1949mhz, but I need to test it more.
> 
> I think I just got a crappy overclocker, the highest I got in Superposition 4K was 10118 I think.


I hate the fan noise on this model. I wound up getting a g12 and adding an aio cooler. It's quiet and cool now. Voltage will increase heat, so if you go that route expect to kick the fans into high gear to maintain your overclock.


----------



## MaKeN

The noise is present an any gpu... that's something that there is, no mather the design. Only adding any sort of water solution , makes it benefit in terms of noise ...
i really doubt that there will ever be a gpu that would be silent on its own air cooler its simply impossible.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> The noise is present an any gpu... that's something that there is, no mather the design. Only adding any sort of water solution , makes it benefit in terms of noise ...
> i really doubt that there will ever be a gpu that would be silent on its own air cooler its simply impossible.


Pure silent is impossible, but silent enough to not be annoying is possible. To me the MSI gaming x was very pleasant even at 75% fan. The gigabyte fans have a high pitch past 70% that I find irritating. However the card itself is great. No coil whine on mine, and a decent everyday oc.


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cookybiscuit*
> 
> Maybe you have a super duper amazing case, but in my setup the fans are loud-ish at 73%. I wouldn't really want to go over 75%. I already set up a custom curve to where it only hits 75% at 90C, it's usually in the low to mid 60's.
> 
> I see you haven't touched the voltage slider, I've heard of people recommending to not do that on these. Does it just make it more unstable? Using a custom curve, mine is stable at 1.012v at 1936mhz (ran it for a month like that now), but even at 1.093 it doesn't seem to be stable at 1949mhz, but I need to test it more.
> 
> I think I just got a crappy overclocker, the highest I got in Superposition 4K was 10118 I think.


when gaming never exceeds 58% fan speed.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fediuld*
> 
> when gaming never exceeds 58% fan speed.


I'm so jealous. I wish mine never exceeded 58% ran cool and overclocked. What are your ambient temps? It's 91f today in NJ


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> I'm so jealous. I wish mine never exceeded 58% ran cool and overclocked. What are your ambient temps? It's 91f today in NJ


Around 20C (70F?) in the room. UK isn't than warm.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fediuld*
> 
> Around 20C (70F?) in the room. UK isn't than warm.


Lol then double jealous!


----------



## Shadowjump

MEH, got my card and block today. Block does not fit due to the bit taller VRMs. MEH GIGABYTE. At least name the card Rev 1.1 or something..

VRMs are quite different:


----------



## ToguroSR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowjump*
> 
> MEH, got my card and block today. Block does not fit due to the bit taller VRMs. MEH GIGABYTE. At least name the card Rev 1.1 or something..
> 
> VRMs are quite different:


That VRM shot .....pure nerd porn


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fediuld*
> 
> Guys, which waterblock to choose for the card?
> The EK, which is not compatible with the backplate or the Phantek one which is compatible with the backplate? (are there any others?).
> Also is the EK backplate better than the factory one?
> 
> Cheers


I know quoting myself, but did anyone watercooled their card? Does it worth to buy the Phantek block, which is compatible with the factory backplate, or better buy the EK set with the new backplate?


----------



## Shadowjump

The backplate as a backplate does nothing. I installed an EK block today and everything works great. Constant 2075MHz boost clock









I'd say if you like backplates, get the Phantek, the Aorus backplate looks better imo. If you dont, just get the cheapest one.


----------



## MaKeN

Received my card yesturday...
Overcklocking it now...
using heaven 4 and evga precision xos...

Im at a point of 2076/5616

1.094v

That looks ok?
Really not used to oc an nvidia card.....


----------



## Fediuld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowjump*
> 
> The backplate as a backplate does nothing. I installed an EK block today and everything works great. Constant 2075MHz boost clock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'd say if you like backplates, get the Phantek, the Aorus backplate looks better imo. If you dont, just get the cheapest one.


Cheers


----------



## Shadowjump

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Received my card yesturday...
> Overcklocking it now...
> using heaven 4 and evga precision xos...
> 
> Im at a point of 2076/5616
> 
> 1.094v
> 
> That looks ok?
> Really not used to oc an nvidia card.....


Have you tried that core but without voltage? My card (not the extreme) does 2075 without any extra voltage. Perhaps your can too?


----------



## Minusorange

Hey guys it's been years since I've been on team green (not since 7800GT) got any advice or know of a decent step by step guide for Overclocking my new Xtreme edition ?

Is it also worth flashing the Bios to F3P ?


----------



## MaKeN

I fallowed the guid that jayztwocents have on youtube... kinda ok guide. Still not done with the final oc.


----------



## Blowfeld

Ok,

bought the waterforce extreme yesterday, built it into my system. Loaded up the new 4.40 beta of Afterburner and startet Timespy.

When I run the program with 150 Powerlimit, I get results of around 2ghz clock and 5600 Memory.

Raising the voltage and putting up 20 MHZ crashes timespy already.

Also, putting the core voltage all the way up sometimes does not matter, and it runs with 0.95 @19oo Mhz. Why the hell is that?? One run it goes all the way up to 1.091 and the next stays ot 0.9x...

Checking my logs shows me, that in these cases the card does not go over the 100% power temp. This is so confusing.
Temps do not go over 55° Celsius.

750 Watt Dark Power Pro 11, so it has all the juice it needs. Did I get the worst Waterforce ever? I mean it only runs stable at around 2Ghz, that is really nothing!

EDIT: Seems my card disaproves everything above 2012 Mhz. That's not what I expected when I bought a watercooled "extreme" card...


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> I fallowed the guid that jayztwocents have on youtube... kinda ok guide. Still not done with the final oc.


Do you happen to have a link for it ?


----------



## MaKeN




----------



## Anzial

Blowfield, I feel ya. It's silicon lottery for you, I got a regular Aorus, won't even hit 2ghz reliably, stuck around 1950 or so. My 1080ti FE can do better than that. Oh well, to ebay aorus goes lol


----------



## Blowfeld

I guess I will keep mine.

Found an ok spot where it runs at constant 2 Ghz core and 6.1Ghz RAM ; At those settings the voltage does not spike like crazy and the cooler does not rotate faster than 37% which is actually quite quiet ( I miss the 0 rotation of my 1080, though...);

I still wonder, why the card resets any kind of core OC when I raise the voltage above 80%... weird.

Would have been cool to go to 2.1Ghz with core clock, but that extra would have only been a tiny amount of fps, so I just settle with it and accept the meh result.

Did not have any OC luck with the cards the last 5 years. Hoped that watercooled "extreme" chips would have been pre selected.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*


Thanks will give me something to do over the weekend


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> I guess I will keep mine.
> 
> Found an ok spot where it runs at constant 2 Ghz core and 6.1Ghz RAM ; At those settings the voltage does not spike like crazy and the cooler does not rotate faster than 37% which is actually quite quiet ( I miss the 0 rotation of my 1080, though...);
> 
> I still wonder, why the card resets any kind of core OC when I raise the voltage above 80%... weird.
> 
> Would have been cool to go to 2.1Ghz with core clock, but that extra would have only been a tiny amount of fps, so I just settle with it and accept the meh result.
> 
> Did not have any OC luck with the cards the last 5 years. Hoped that watercooled "extreme" chips would have been pre selected.


Have you tried your psu in single rail mode, as i think it can be run in multi or single rail ?


----------



## Blowfeld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> Have you tried your psu in single rail mode, as i think it can be run in multi or single rail ?


You think that would make a difference? I doubt it is the power that is missing, it is just that the chip can not handle it. I mean, the multi rails are already supporting with 25A at 12V... do you think that the extra 32A would make the difference when the chip does not even hold 2025 stable?

The Dark Power Pro 750 Watt unit is quite performant...


----------



## Blowfeld

Tried single rail.

Same result. Time Spy crashes.

What I do not understand is, that Afterburner applies OC correctly when I put the core voltage to around 70%.

But when I set it to 100%, then the OC basically resets and the card only uses 100% power target instead of 150% and clocks at aroun 1880 Mhz and 0.95 V. Anybody has seen the same behaviour?


----------



## Grobyc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> Tried single rail.
> 
> Same result. Time Spy crashes.
> 
> What I do not understand is, that Afterburner applies OC correctly when I put the core voltage to around 70%.
> 
> But when I set it to 100%, then the OC basically resets and the card only uses 100% power target instead of 150% and clocks at aroun 1880 Mhz and 0.95 V. Anybody has seen the same behaviour?


I'm having similar issues, waterforce Aorus, AB's voltage slider screws with everything. I can get stable 2050 at 1.031 with curve, but the second I touch the slider nothing makes sense and power draw lessens in most cases or it's fairly unstable regardless of core speed. Couple side notes, I've started restarting in between benches that crash and it seems less likely to occur, the power draw issue feels like the card is switching to a failsafe mode or something. Second is that on one of my recent reboots I lost the 'optimize for compute' option in nvcp, yet the driver is the same...

Lastly, with the Aorus' 150% pwr, I get limited even at lower voltage/core. Timespy and such hit the 350w+ mark with ease. I thought I read that most people weren't getting nearly throttled at these numbers. Seeing the power usage like it is makes me want to try XOC Bios... Maybe it needs a Bios update like the air version? Gigabyte hasn't put one through yet though, right?


----------



## MaKeN

Is it worth to undervolt that 1080ti?if so, Any has a link for a guide to undervolt?


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Is it worth to undervolt that 1080ti?if so, Any has a link for a guide to undervolt?


KedarWolf has a guide on YouTube.


----------



## Anzial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Is it worth to undervolt that 1080ti?if so, Any has a link for a guide to undervolt?


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grobyc*
> 
> I'm having similar issues, waterforce Aorus, AB's voltage slider screws with everything. I can get stable 2050 at 1.031 with curve, but the second I touch the slider nothing makes sense and power draw lessens in most cases or it's fairly unstable regardless of core speed. Couple side notes, I've started restarting in between benches that crash and it seems less likely to occur, the power draw issue feels like the card is switching to a failsafe mode or something. Second is that on one of my recent reboots I lost the 'optimize for compute' option in nvcp, yet the driver is the same...
> 
> Lastly, with the Aorus' 150% pwr, I get limited even at lower voltage/core. Timespy and such hit the 350w+ mark with ease. I thought I read that most people weren't getting nearly throttled at these numbers. Seeing the power usage like it is makes me want to try XOC Bios... Maybe it needs a Bios update like the air version? Gigabyte hasn't put one through yet though, right?


That happened to me with my MSI 10801i gaming x..I returned it for the Aorus extreme. From what I've read throughout this thread, these cards don't take well to voltage increases. I've kept mine at 1v just to mitigate heat, stays at 2025 @ 51C with my aio. Not bad, not great - but at least it's quiet and gets me dem fps.


----------



## Blowfeld

There is no BIOS available from Gigabyte at the moment.

I suspected the BIOS we have to be kind of an updated version of the F3P. But you never know.

What you described applies 1:1 to my card as well, grobyc.

Tested it some more inSuperposition Benchmark.

The card just runs out of steam above 2012 Mhz / 6000 Mhz. The power % jumps always between 140 and 150 and I get the most stable results when applying +70 Core Voltage to 150% Power Limit.

Sucks that I need 375 Watt to achieve a 2GHZ OC...


----------



## MaKeN

So after playing with the oc ... my card can do :
2076/6365
1.081 v
47c temps
And a skore of 9766 in the time spy.

The card would really go down to ~0.95v after any crash and its 1800-1990 ish mhz . Idkn why. After a restart it comes back to what i oc'ed it for.

Something that i dont understand:
1: in time spy at the end it wont show my full memory mhz it shows something like 11200 not and its like doubled 5600mhz , but my oc is 6365 mhz on memory.... isnt it supposed to be 12600?
2. While running heaven stress test on the left corner i see 2076mhz from Xoc and on the lright corner of the screen i see an oc of 2088 from the heaven reporting at the same time. Why are they different?
Ps: if voltage is at stock it does 2025 max .... 2088 is the limit with max voltage , for some reason temps at max volts and lowest volt are like 2-3 c different so thats the reason i keep it at max volts


----------



## Supahflii

I bought the Xtreme version, but, even then.. I feel like I can't get much stability. Tried with one rail leading into two 6+2s; currently with two rails with their own 6+2. Power supply is a Corsair RM850.

This is the highest I've been able to OC it (testing with Witcher 3 on Ultra 1080p, no hairworks. System has been stable besides this, used DDU to uninstall an old AMD R9 390; put in the 1080 Ti, downloaded newest drivers, set up the Aorus software to change the LED lights, uninstally the software, put on MSI Afterburner. But, now I'm stuck. Any advice? Any ideas? Did I just lose the silicon lottery this badly?


----------



## Blowfeld

@Maken:

Congratz on winning the lottery.

When it shows 5600/11200 that just means that it does not show the OC value correctly, as this is the standard clock.
Most programs do show me the standard clock for my CPU as well, sp you should not mind that.

@Supahflii:

Sorry, you seem to have lost the lottery. Like me.
What does it clock at in benchmarks / stress tests? Mine only runs stable until 2012 with 1.062V but does not go higher without crashing. The "extreme" stands for "extreme chip quality variety"









Also: Better use the beta version of AB; At least that one shows you the values correctly.


----------



## nismofreak

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## MaKeN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> @Maken:
> 
> Congratz on winning the lottery.
> 
> When it shows 5600/11200 that just means that it does not show the OC value correctly, as this is the standard clock.
> Most programs do show me the standard clock for my CPU as well, sp you should not mind that.
> 
> @Supahflii:
> 
> Sorry, you seem to have lost the lottery. Like me.
> What does it clock at in benchmarks / stress tests? Mine only runs stable until 2012 with 1.062V but does not go higher without crashing. The "extreme" stands for "extreme chip quality variety"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also: Better use the beta version of AB; At least that one shows you the values correctly.


i wouldnt say i won the lotery

2076 at 1.81 volts is a lot voltage, people do 2076 at stock voltage , and also this card wont ever go more then 2088mhz


----------



## Supahflii

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> @Supahflii:
> 
> Sorry, you seem to have lost the lottery. Like me.
> What does it clock at in benchmarks / stress tests? Mine only runs stable until 2012 with 1.062V but does not go higher without crashing. The "extreme" stands for "extreme chip quality variety"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also: Better use the beta version of AB; At least that one shows you the values correctly.


Gets to about 69-72C, and the highest I've seen it boost to is 1999. Setting the base clock any higher pushes it above 2000, and that's when it's not unstable.


----------



## MaKeN

well thats my score on a aorus waterforce:


----------



## m4x89

Final settings game stable 24/7


----------



## Blowfeld

I am happy for you, Maken!

That are quite allright results and you score 300 points higher than me, as mine can not go over 2012 Mhz. For me, that would be hitting lottery.







In real life mine settles around 1987 to 2 Ghz....

@m4x89: That's kind of allright, but 81% fan speed is quite loud, isn't it?


----------



## m4x89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> @m4x89: That's kind of allright, but 81% fan speed is quite loud, isn't it?


Yeah but in gaming it's pretty good, I have headphones


----------



## rhodo

XOC works much better for me than Afterburner.


----------



## Kristodian

Hello guys, Im planning to purchase a computer for my self in a middle of September. I am trying to choose a GPU. So far I've made a decision that it would be Gigabyte Aorus 1080 ti Extreme edition or Asus 1080 ti Strix OC... now then I've decided to check online about possible problems and found out that the specific GPU that you guys have has some kind of BIOS problem , heating up too much and clocks jump up and down. I've passed a little bit through the discussion and people are talking about playing a lottery. I dont really want to purchase something that expensive, given credit to the power of it, but for it to burn down in a year or two. Im not rich , so this investment is planned for aprox 5 - 6 years.
Here is some extra info:
Im not planning to do any overclocking at all. ( I dont want to loose warranty )
My latest GPU was 560ti which burned down about a year and a half ago, since then I play simple games on my mobo integrated gpu.
What would you advice?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristodian*
> 
> Hello guys, Im planning to purchase a computer for my self in a middle of September. I am trying to choose a GPU. So far I've made a decision that it would be Gigabyte Aorus 1080 ti Extreme edition or Asus 1080 ti Strix OC... now then I've decided to check online about possible problems and found out that the specific GPU that you guys have has some kind of BIOS problem , heating up too much and clocks jump up and down. I've passed a little bit through the discussion and people are talking about playing a lottery. I dont really want to purchase something that expensive, given credit to the power of it, but for it to burn down in a year or two. Im not rich , so this investment is planned for aprox 5 - 6 years.
> Here is some extra info:
> Im not planning to do any overclocking at all. ( I dont want to loose warranty )
> My latest GPU was 560ti which burned down about a year and a half ago, since then I play simple games on my mobo integrated gpu.
> What would you advice?


Only pick the Aorus if you are a handyman sort of guy who can fix simple problems with GPUs, otherwise, you're gonna learn to hate the RMA system. This card is like an old mustang, excellent value for it's price but it's a little rough around the edges.

If you want something solid and dependable out of the box, I would recommend the ASUS Strix or the affordable MSI Gaming X cards.

Dw, all 1080tis won't have the possibility of burning out like your 560ti did. You are hard voltage locked on this card to 1.1V so it's idiot proof.


----------



## dhaine

just got this card (not the extreme), but wow, it's hot ! 55 degree (c) while idle, something's wrong it seems ? not overclocked, fan on auto
could it be defective ?
room temp is 25, other component are getting hot too because of gpu (cpu 34), motherboard 40, hdd 40
I'm reaching 84 while gaming with no OC
case is fine, and had no issue with old card (gigabyte g1 980 TI oc to 1500), i don't remember idle temp ...


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhaine*
> 
> just got this card (not the extreme), but wow, it's hot ! 55 degree (c) while idle, something's wrong it seems ? not overclocked, fan on auto
> could it be defective ?
> room temp is 25, other component are getting hot too because of gpu (cpu 34), motherboard 40, hdd 40
> I'm reaching 84 while gaming with no OC
> case is fine, and had no issue with old card (gigabyte g1 980 TI oc to 1500), i don't remember idle temp ...


Two things.
The stock thermal paste job is really crap, you might notice decent gains by switching something more premium like Kryonaut.

The fans are much much more effective above 50% RPM, this card's cooling system wasn't really designed to be effective at low fan speeds.


----------



## dhaine

thank you, I just checked my fan speed settings in afterburner and it was still the one I made for the 980 TI, which was like very low (off, unless 65+ degree...)

everything is fine now !
40 degree idle, and 73 degree under heavy load with OC at 2050 / 5960


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dhaine*
> 
> thank you, I just checked my fan speed settings in afterburner and it was still the one I made for the 980 TI, which was like very low (off, unless 65+ degree...)
> 
> everything is fine now !
> 40 degree idle, and 73 degree under heavy load with OC at 2050 / 5960


This looks way better. I am on non-xtreme. 2075/2063, 11954 memory, idle 36 and 33 on a colder evening. 56-58 on ultra modded SkyrimSE (I call it Furmark Edition), 64 highest in Furmark or SuperPosition. I have very good case venting and probably lucky in the lottery too. It's a very well thought cooling solution provided case venting delivers.

Wysłane z mojego F8331 przy użyciu Tapatalka


----------



## MaKeN

I have tested my waterforce temps
Undervolted to 1mv /2025/6300mhz max temps 45c
And vs 1.081 mv / 2068/6300 mhz max temps are 48-49
Cand decide on what to stop at


----------



## Kristodian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Only pick the Aorus if you are a handyman sort of guy who can fix simple problems with GPUs, otherwise, you're gonna learn to hate the RMA system. This card is like an old mustang, excellent value for it's price but it's a little rough around the edges.
> 
> If you want something solid and dependable out of the box, I would recommend the ASUS Strix or the affordable MSI Gaming X cards.
> 
> Dw, all 1080tis won't have the possibility of burning out like your 560ti did. You are hard voltage locked on this card to 1.1V so it's idiot proof.


Can you define "simple problems" , I dont tinker on the insides of my hardware to not erase my warranty, if that is what you mean. Im an more that an average user at hardware it self, and software is also a friend to me, if you know what I mean







.
I will ask the same question I've asked here on the Strix OC thread later today to see what kind of problem their card might have


----------



## BIGTom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> There is no BIOS available from Gigabyte at the moment.
> 
> I suspected the BIOS we have to be kind of an updated version of the F3P. But you never know.
> 
> What you described applies 1:1 to my card as well, grobyc.
> 
> Tested it some more inSuperposition Benchmark.
> 
> The card just runs out of steam above 2012 Mhz / 6000 Mhz. The power % jumps always between 140 and 150 and I get the most stable results when applying +70 Core Voltage to 150% Power Limit.
> 
> Sucks that I need 375 Watt to achieve a 2GHZ OC...


Blofeld, my new AORUS Waterforce Xtreme tops out at the exact clock wall that you have. Our chip samples must be twins.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kristodian*
> 
> Can you define "simple problems" , I dont tinker on the insides of my hardware to not erase my warranty, if that is what you mean. Im an more that an average user at hardware it self, and software is also a friend to me, if you know what I mean
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I will ask the same question I've asked here on the Strix OC thread later today to see what kind of problem their card might have


Actually the Strix is pretty much good to go out of the box. You do pay a premium of course and the card is very noisy at 80-100% fan speed.
With the Aorus, be very comfortable with doing stuff like tearing down the card for thermal paste if it overheats at stock, flashing BIOSes, resolving fan clicking etc etc.
Funnily enough, ASUS tend to have warranty void stickers while Gigabyte virtually never.

Also should you choose the Extreme model, there is a possibility that you might get one that is DOA at stock clocks.


----------



## Kristodian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Actually the Strix is pretty much good to go out of the box. You do pay a premium of course and the card is very noisy at 80-100% fan speed.
> With the Aorus, be very comfortable with doing stuff like tearing down the card for thermal paste if it overheats at stock, flashing BIOSes, resolving fan clicking etc etc.
> Funnily enough, ASUS tend to have warranty void stickers while Gigabyte virtually never.
> 
> Also should you choose the Extreme model, there is a possibility that you might get one that is DOA at stock clocks.


Wow... I didnt expect it will have that much problems for that price, I think that you just helped me to make a decision about forgetting about Gigabyte card


----------



## taem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Also should you choose the Extreme model, there is a possibility that you might get one that is DOA at stock clocks.


Still we have this issue? I was hoping after waiting a few months that issue would be resolved. I held off on ordering this from Amazon for $750 because of this issue.

What about the fan issue where one of the fans will clip against the shroud? Several users noted that, has that been fixed?


----------



## Blowfeld

@BigTom:

Welcome to the lousy chip batch club.

Where the chips are hot and slow. Almost like my ex...


----------



## jonathan1107

Just ordered a gtx 1080 ti aorus xtreme edition.
Will be getting it in a few days.

This thread has over 197 pages and the first page doesn't make many mentions on tips on How to OC this card, namely how to UNLOCK the 150% power target/limit.
I read stuff about an "F3" and "F4" bios. I'm very familiar with the procedures of flashing a different bios unto a card.

So, those are my questions:

1. How to Unlock 150% Power Target?
2. Does the card feature a Physical Switch to switch between BIOSes?
3. How big is the headroom for OC'ing this one? (I Know it varies from chip to chip, but generally speaking?)
4. Would you say you guys are happy with the card?
5. I read all about the Copper plates and stuff... Does it really help the card?


----------



## MaKeN

1) on this card its already unlocked
2)idkn
3)i think 2000/5600 is the minimum... idkn depends on cooling a lot , but dont expect something significantly higher then 2100mhz thats for all 1080 ti's
4)im happy with my waterforce it does fantastic job.
Why whould not be happy ? Think of it this way: why would people with other brand 1080ti would use xos bios?








5)coper plate on the back of the card? Well mb it helps if there's airflow pushing hot air from it out of the case , but idkn , for sure its not a bad thing on the card, it does look good , and i cant imagine a case where it is bad to have one









But , hey, thats my opinion... im also a new owner of it. Till like 1 week ago i owned amd cards only... vega failed, im here


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taem*
> 
> Still we have this issue? I was hoping after waiting a few months that issue would be resolved. I held off on ordering this from Amazon for $750 because of this issue.
> 
> What about the fan issue where one of the fans will clip against the shroud? Several users noted that, has that been fixed?


You see thats the tricky part, I suspect the biggest culprits were the 1st batch manufactured by Gigabyte. If you want to guarantee you don't get a dud one, you have to reference the manufacturing date with the serial number. This is impossible with ordering online. If you go with a retailer you trust is moving a lot of Aorus Extremes you might have a better chance of nabbing a decent one but then again your retailer could also be getting screwed by the distributor.

Either that or just get the Non-Extreme one. Virtually no non-extreme user has noted any issues, other than some people losing the Silicon Lottery with cards that can't even do 2000mhz but that can happen with any manufacturer.

That fan clipping is the byproduct of how flimsy the Aluminium shroud is. I don't think Gigabyte has corrected that but it's also a simple DiY fix.



All this is irrelevant to me now because mine is custom watercooled.


----------



## OcSlave

Still loving my sli extremes, i'd like to say ive been enjoying playing games but theres naff all to play so instead they've been mining and ive been selling coins for other coins, maybe strike it rich one day







, made around £300 in 30 days


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> 3)i think 2000/5600 is the minimum... idkn depends on cooling a lot , but dont expect something significantly higher then 2100mhz thats for all 1080 ti's


I can do 2k @ 1.012v and 2012 @ 1.031v (Firestrike causes occasional power limit on this though even at 120% power) and at the moment I'm managing 5812 on memory which basically +200 from stock xtreme mem, temps are really good though, 80% fans = 58 degrees and that's in a warm case where idle is around 48 degrees

Still trying to tweak my OC settings but I know I can't get over 2025 stable even with 100% voltage so I'm happy with [email protected]

Just to add what I put in the main Ti thread -

I never want to OC a GPU ever again after trying to get the max out of my Aorus Xtreme, ended up 2000mhz core/1504mem @1.025v for my most stable in both Firestrike and Heaven.

I did manage 2037 core in Heaven @ max voltage but in Firestrike it kept downclocking and 2012 @ 1.012v worked great in Firestrike but kept crashing in Heaven

The amount of restarts and tweaks with that hideous mhz/V curve is enough to put me off doing it again lol fortunately my Ti will last me a good few years before I need to attempt oc'ing a new card


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> I can do 2k @ 1.012v and 2012 @ 1.031v (Firestrike causes occasional power limit on this though even at 120% power) and at the moment I'm managing 5812 on memory which basically +200 from stock xtreme mem, temps are really good though, 80% fans = 58 degrees and that's in a warm case where idle is around 48 degrees
> 
> Still trying to tweak my OC settings but I know I can't get over 2025 stable even with 100% voltage so I'm happy with [email protected]
> 
> Just to add what I put in the main Ti thread -
> 
> I never want to OC a GPU ever again after trying to get the max out of my Aorus Xtreme, ended up 2000mhz core/1504mem @1.025v for my most stable in both Firestrike and Heaven.
> 
> I did manage 2037 core in Heaven @ max voltage but in Firestrike it kept downclocking and 2012 @ 1.012v worked great in Firestrike but kept crashing in Heaven
> 
> The amount of restarts and tweaks with that hideous mhz/V curve is enough to put me off doing it again lol fortunately my Ti will last me a good few years before I need to attempt oc'ing a new card


Mine maxed out at 2037mhz @1.093V on air lol. And I was convinced I scored a dud. I chucked the card under water and I now get 2100mhz at 1.093V (or 2025mhz @ .993V) with zero power throttle. Its all in the cooling.

One tip if you want to reduce power throttle, if you don't care about RGB lighting, take out the connector, it lets your core have something like 5-10W more power.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Mine maxed out at 2037mhz @1.093V on air lol. And I was convinced I scored a dud. I chucked the card under water and I now get 2100mhz at 1.093V (or 2025mhz @ .993V) with zero power throttle. Its all in the cooling.
> 
> One tip if you want to reduce power throttle, if you don't care about RGB lighting, take out the connector, it lets your core have something like 5-10W more power.


See that's the thing I wouldn't mind so much if I was hitting high 70's on those settings but with an aggressive fan profile it won't go above 60 so I don't understand why the temp is throttling the card even with temp set in Afterburner at 83, unless there's some automatic thing within the architecture that we cannot adjust (like the voltage without shunt mod) that automatically throttles around 60 degrees ?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> See that's the thing I wouldn't mind so much if I was hitting high 70's on those settings but with an aggressive fan profile it won't go above 60 so I don't understand why the temp is throttling the card even with temp set in Afterburner at 83, unless there's some automatic thing within the architecture that we cannot adjust (like the voltage without shunt mod) that automatically throttles around 60 degrees ?


The temperature throttle range begins at 30C on Pascal unlike Maxwell which started at 60C IIRC.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The temperature throttle range begins at 30C on Pascal unlike Maxwell which started at 60C IIRC.


So what's the point in the Afterburner temp setting ? Why such a low number ?


----------



## Baden

Hi Guys,

Not sure if the question has been answered but need some help.

Just got my Aorus Extreme but have noticed when i have it in OC mode on 3D Mark Stress Test my temps hit about 83 degrees. Now when i have a custom fan profile to change the fan speed more aggressive it only hit 65ish which is much better! But when i put a custom fan curve on it takes me out of OC mode and into User Mode. Unfortunately i'm a newbie at overclocking and don't want to play around with overclocking myself, is there some way I can change the Fan Speed in OC mode?


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Not sure if the question has been answered but need some help.
> 
> Just got my Aorus Extreme but have noticed when i have it in OC mode on 3D Mark Stress Test my temps hit about 83 degrees. Now when i have a custom fan profile to change the fan speed more aggressive it only hit 65ish which is much better! But when i put a custom fan curve on it takes me out of OC mode and into User Mode. Unfortunately i'm a newbie at overclocking and don't want to play around with overclocking myself, is there some way I can change the Fan Speed in OC mode?


1st step, uninstal Aorus OC SW.

2nd step, instal MSI Afterburner.

3rd step, profit.


----------



## Baden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> 1st step, uninstal Aorus OC SW.
> 
> 2nd step, instal MSI Afterburner.
> 
> 3rd step, profit.


If use MSI do I not have to manually Overclock? Not going to lie I wouldn't have a clue. That's why I like just hitting the pc option haha!


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> 1st step, uninstal Aorus OC SW.
> 
> 2nd step, instal MSI Afterburner.
> 
> 3rd step, profit.
> 
> 
> 
> If use MSI do I not have to manually Overclock? Not going to lie I wouldn't have a clue. That's why I like just hitting the pc option haha!
Click to expand...

I get it, I really do, but I can promise you that if you just learn the basics, you'll get better, more stable temps. Along with that, you'll get better more stable clocks. There are quite a few threads here dedicated to this conversation.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1624521/nvidia-gtx-1080-ti-owners-club/13620#post_26316339


----------



## Raity

Guys, can you please advise.
I have a very strage problem that I can't explain.

I have EVGA 1080ti FTW3 and Gigabyte 1080ti AORUS Waterforce (water cooled).
The water cooled card set to higher clocks by default and should perform better.
But on the absolutely same system, the scores is always better on FTW3.
CPU and physics sore is the same.
*
Here is several FTW3 results*

Time Spy - https://www.3dmark.com/spy/2279573 (8721)
Firestrike Ultra - https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13488927 (7124)
*
Here is several AORUS results (water cooled)*

Time Spy - https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/21888469? (8528)
Firestrike Ultra - https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13506018 (6747)

Results differs significantly in favor of FTW3 card with lover clocks.









I'm running video cards in absolutely the same environment.
Any one getting such a low results (as mine) with 2000Mhz clocked card?
Can it be the damaged chip or something?


----------



## Raity

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raity*
> 
> Guys, can you please advise.
> I have a very strage problem that I can't explain.
> 
> I have EVGA 1080ti FTW3 and Gigabyte 1080ti AORUS Waterforce (water cooled).
> The water cooled card set to higher clocks by default and should perform better.
> But on the absolutely same system, the scores is always better on FTW3.
> CPU and physics sore is the same.
> *
> Here is several FTW3 results*
> 
> Time Spy - https://www.3dmark.com/spy/2279573 (8721)
> Firestrike Ultra - https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13488927 (7124)
> *
> Here is several AORUS results (water cooled)*
> 
> Time Spy - https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/21888469? (8528)
> Firestrike Ultra - https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13506018 (6747)
> 
> Results differs significantly in favor of FTW3 card with lover clocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running video cards in absolutely the same environment.
> Any one getting such a low results (as mine) with 2000Mhz clocked card?
> Can it be the damaged chip or something?


I made some testing - the FTW3 card was set to 117% power limit, and it worked at 117% speed during all the tests.
AORUS set to 150%! power limit in the software, but it only reaches 100 - 103% speed during test and any other graphic application running.

I tried different software, like MSI Afterburner, Gigabyte AORUS Software, EVGA Precision XOC, Asus GPU Tweak - same results with any settings.
I don't know what's wrong with AOURS power limit and how to fix it, changing the clock speeds in software listed above is working like intended, but changing power limit only affecting performance when you set it below 100% (like 50% for example). Everything above 100% working as 100%.

Also, I tried to enable voltage settings in MSI Afterburner, even after all necessary check marks set in the settings, after software and PC reboot - it does not allow changing voltage settings, scale is grayed out.

Any suggestions about the power limit problem with AORUS?


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raity*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Raity*
> 
> Guys, can you please advise.
> I have a very strage problem that I can't explain.
> 
> I have EVGA 1080ti FTW3 and Gigabyte 1080ti AORUS Waterforce (water cooled).
> The water cooled card set to higher clocks by default and should perform better.
> But on the absolutely same system, the scores is always better on FTW3.
> CPU and physics sore is the same.
> *
> Here is several FTW3 results*
> 
> Time Spy - https://www.3dmark.com/spy/2279573 (8721)
> Firestrike Ultra - https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13488927 (7124)
> *
> Here is several AORUS results (water cooled)*
> 
> Time Spy - https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/21888469? (8528)
> Firestrike Ultra - https://www.3dmark.com/fs/13506018 (6747)
> 
> Results differs significantly in favor of FTW3 card with lover clocks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm running video cards in absolutely the same environment.
> Any one getting such a low results (as mine) with 2000Mhz clocked card?
> Can it be the damaged chip or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I made some testing - the FTW3 card was set to 117% power limit, and it worked at 117% speed during all the tests.
> AORUS set to 150%! power limit in the software, but it only reaches 100 - 103% speed during test and any other graphic application running.
> 
> I tried different software, like MSI Afterburner, Gigabyte AORUS Software, EVGA Precision XOC, Asus GPU Tweak - same results with any settings.
> I don't know what's wrong with AOURS power limit and how to fix it, changing the clock speeds in software listed above is working like intended, but changing power limit only affecting performance when you set it below 100% (like 50% for example). Everything above 100% working as 100%.
> 
> Also, I tried to enable voltage settings in MSI Afterburner, even after all necessary check marks set in the settings, after software and PC reboot - it does not allow changing voltage settings, scale is grayed out.
> 
> Any suggestions about the power limit problem with AORUS?
Click to expand...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1625653/how-to-get-voltage-slider-in-afterburner-working-on-a-1080-ti/90#post_26314653


----------



## Dibbler

Edit. No longer needed.

Thanks


----------



## MaKeN

Guys is there any point to flash Xoc bios on 1080ti waterforce?isnt it already extreme oc?
Sry if its a noob question, im new to nvidia


----------



## Blowfeld

Well,

I own the waterforce and mine is not "extreme". Crashes at everything over 2012 Mhz, the voltage spikes like crazy sometimes and it still goes easily to 60 °C, even with a more agressive fan.

The power limit of the card should already be fine as it is, but somehow the whole package does not convince me, yet.


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> Well,
> 
> I own the waterforce and mine is not "extreme". Crashes at everything over 2012 Mhz, the voltage spikes like crazy sometimes and it still goes easily to 60 °C, even with a more agressive fan.
> 
> The power limit of the card should already be fine as it is, but somehow the whole package does not convince me, yet.


What PSU are you using?


----------



## Blowfeld

Be quiet Dark pro 11 750 w Single rail...


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blowfeld*
> 
> Be quiet Dark pro 11 750 w Single rail...


Just for reference, what happens when you use the Aorus utility with the auto OC feature?


----------



## brubru1998

I have upgrade to the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti, the card have a LOT of problem..

1- Coil whine
2- The left fan do not turn on, I need to take pliers to remove the metal bracket.



In nutshell, I dont recommend the gigabyte aorus gtx 1080ti at all.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brubru1998*
> 
> I need to take pliers to remove the metal bracket.


You couldn't send it back under warranty for replacement ??? Now you probably void the warranty by destroying the bracket lol


----------



## hockeyboy1002

I just put mine in a custom loop








Still working on fine tuning my overclocks but this is what I have so far








Any suggestions if I decide to give it a little more voltage to try to get more out of the card?


----------



## The Chosen One

Well I joined the club aswell. AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G in tha house! Registered for 4 years waranty right away (don't forget people!







)

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/21919668?

Score: 14 666 with NVIDIA GeForce GTX 1080 Ti(1x) and Intel Core i5-2500K Processor
Timespy: 6 643: https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/21920534?

Not gonna say bottlenecked but score is def brought down by the 2500k. (not sure how much ram factors in far 3DMark?)
But if the 8700k (real world reviews/benchmarks from hardware.info etc) is really something that problem could be solved.
Same for my current screen, 24" 1080p 60 hz (for now!!!)

Also a question: I've only had it in my pc for less then 24 hours and not gamed that much yet (party and all







) but the fan stop led/sign seems to 'activate' quite late. Is that just me?

Also downloaded the AGE software today and the card is as most people know in gaming mode by default. Any reason at all not to put it on OC mode?


----------



## Blameless

Got my Aorus (non-X) 1080 Ti in the other day and have been playing with it since. Chose this card because of price, availability, and the 375w advertised power limit without needing to flash 3rd party firmware.

My initial impressions are a bit mixed, especially with regard to the cooler.

I'm pretty impressed with the noise levels and mine doesn't seem to need to be taken apart or have the TIM replaced to perform well enough (though I did find it prudent to tighten down all the screws to increase mounting pressure). However, the build quality of the actual heatsink itself is pretty mediocre and there are some very questionable design decisions regarding the VRM cooling. Why the FETs would have the largest gap, needing the thickest thermal pads, while other VRM components like the chokes have a much smaller gap, is beyond me...it's backwards. Backplate is also completely worthless from a thermal performance perspective and the silly copper insert behind the GPU is the coolest (and least functional) part of it...purely decorative.

Flashed the part to F3P almost out of the box...didn't seem to change much, but I like to start with the most recent stable firmware.

Still dialing in an overclock. Spent the better part of yesterday messing with the dynamic clock/voltage curves in MSI AB, but gave up on them as the offets they were applying weren't always predictable...seemed to vary by two or three bins between reboot and at different loads, so I went back to the basic sliders.

Only real issue I'm having (beyond the unavoidable NVIDIA Pascal and driver annoyances) is that the card doesn't seem to actually be able to reach it's advertised power limit. If I set 150%/375w, I seem to still run into a power limit cap between 133% and 142% power.

Anyone else seeing this issue? I suspect it's just reacting to transients, but if others are able to peg power at or near 150%, I'll know something is wrong with my sample.


----------



## coc_james

@Blameless

Is your PSU single or multi rail? Do you have the minimum required 31.5amps needed to hit the 375 watt max?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> @Blameless
> 
> Is your PSU single or multi rail? Do you have the minimum required 31.5amps needed to hit the 375 watt max?


I'm using the same PSU, cables and connectors I used to push well over 400w through OCed Hawaii parts in FurMark. There is OCP present on the PSU, but it doesn't kick in until fairly extreme levels.

What's MSI AB's power limit graph look like on your Aorus at max power limit in a power limited test?


----------



## coc_james

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> @Blameless
> 
> Is your PSU single or multi rail? Do you have the minimum required 31.5amps needed to hit the 375 watt max?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the same PSU, cables and connectors I used to push well over 400w through OCed Hawaii parts in FurMark. There is OCP present on the PSU, but it doesn't kick in until fairly extreme levels.
> 
> What's MSI AB's power limit graph look like on your Aorus at max power limit in a power limited test?
Click to expand...

I'm on vacation in the mountains right now. When I get back I'll see what I can do for you. I'm currently in SLI, with not enough headroom in my PSU to run max powerlimit on my cards. I'll see if I can get something up for you Tuesday or Wednesday night. If I recall, I was able to sustain 374watts.


----------



## Blameless

Thanks

Been doing some more testing and in less overkill programs I can sustain closer to the power limit figure, but it would still be nice to have some graphs from other cards for comparison.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Been doing some more testing and in less overkill programs I can sustain closer to the power limit figure, but it would still be nice to have some graphs from other cards for comparison.


Run GPU-Z and monitor the PerfCap Reason, you might not be hitting max TDP because you're maxing out on VRel depending on the voltage curve


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Run GPU-Z and monitor the PerfCap Reason, you might not be hitting max TDP because you're maxing out on VRel depending on the voltage curve


I've been using MSI AB's graph to monitor the performance cap reasons as well...that's how I noticed the apparent issue in the first place.

In FurMark, for example, only the TDP/power cap is triggered and it's triggered at ~134% with the slider set to 150%. However, in less extreme tests, I'm seeing fluctuations around 140% and spikes to 148% power.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> I've been using MSI AB's graph to monitor the performance cap reasons as well...that's how I noticed the apparent issue in the first place.
> 
> In FurMark, for example, only the TDP/power cap is triggered and it's triggered at ~134% with the slider set to 150%. However, in less extreme tests, I'm seeing fluctuations around 140% and spikes to 148% power.


Watch on GPU-Z it will tell you exactly what the power cap is being triggered by









I get Powerlimit all the time in 3DMark because I'm hitting my VRel yet I'm only using 90 to 100% TDP

If you're getting the clocks you set at the voltages you set and you're not crashing the driver and at good temps then it's nothing to worry about


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Watch on GPU-Z it will tell you exactly what the power cap is being triggered by t


If GPU-Z shows the power cap being triggered by something, so does MSI AB. It's the exact same readout/sensor data, just formatted differently.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> If GPU-Z shows the power cap being triggered by something, so does MSI AB. It's the exact same readout/sensor data, just formatted differently.


MSI AB only tells you that the limit is being hit
GPU-Z tells you the reason for the limit being hit

Why do you not understand this ?

You're saying you're not getting full TDP and you don't know why, yet you won't follow advice to look at GPU-Z to see why


----------



## Dibbler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coc_james*
> 
> @Blameless
> 
> Is your PSU single or multi rail? Do you have the minimum required 31.5amps needed to hit the 375 watt max?


Sorry for asking but with what you write that shouldn't be a reason why I hardly see my powerlimit (set at 150% in AB) go above 120% when checking in GPU-Z....?
But I can't figure out what it could be.

My PSU is Corsair Professional HX 850,
quite an old PSU but it does show as supplying a max of 70A, if I have understood that information correctly...?



I see no information in the PerCap Reason.

The max GPU temp when testing above was 55c and max VDDC was 1.0620v

Max GPU core at 2062mhz

full load on GPU.

I was running the Superposition Benchmark at the time.

Would something else prevent the card from running to the max of 150% powerlimit...?
Or are there other factors which are maximising that limit at 120%.?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> MSI AB only tells you that the limit is being hit
> GPU-Z tells you the reason for the limit being hit
> 
> Why do you not understand this ?


You are flatly incorrect.

MSI AB has different graphs for each limiter. They read either 0 or 1. If it's one that particular limiter is active. Since there are separate graphs for each limiter, you can easily see the reason for the limit.

If the power limit graph reads 1, then you are power limited. If the temperature limit graph reads 1, you are temperature limited. If the voltage limit graph reads 1, you are voltage limited. If all three graphs read one, all are limited. If any two of the three read 1, those two are the reason.

Why do you not understand this?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> You're saying you're not getting full TDP and you don't know why, yet you won't follow advice to look at GPU-Z to see why


Why would you assume I'm not looking at GPU-Z? How the hell do you think I discovered they were providing the exact same information? By _not_ comparing them side by side?

GPU-Z, MSI AB, and HWinfo all show the limiters in question. You can tell that the limits are being hit with any of them and the reason the limit is being hit, with any of them.

They all poll the same sensors and display the same information in slightly different formats. If you cannot interpret anything except GPU-Z, that's your failing.


----------



## Blameless

To further clarify things:










As I stated in my original post, these are the facts of the matter:

- Power limit is set to 150%.
- Furmark hits the power limit at 130-140%
- No other limiters appear to be in play as shown by all of these various monitoring programs and Furmark itself.
- MSI AB, HWiNFO, GPU-Z, and FurMark (which uses GPU-Z code, IIRC) all poll the same monitoring IC/sensors and display the same info, including the reason for the limit, as far as can be detected.


----------



## hockeyboy1002

Can anyone help me overclock my card more? I can't push past 2050 core clock, but the card runs extremely cool at 33 degrees


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> To further clarify things:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As I stated in my original post, these are the facts of the matter:
> 
> - Power limit is set to 150%.
> - Furmark hits the power limit at 130-140%
> - No other limiters appear to be in play as shown by all of these various monitoring programs and Furmark itself.
> - MSI AB, HWiNFO, GPU-Z, and FurMark (which uses GPU-Z code, IIRC) all poll the same monitoring IC/sensors and display the same info, including the reason for the limit, as far as can be detected.


Apologies I misunderstood your original post, it didn't make it clear that you had monitored the other sensors and I didn't notice MSI AB had same sensors for other limits (Only been using 4 days since I got my card)
Quote:


> Increasing the target (using Afterburner) to Gigabyte's theoretical 375W maximum serves no practical purpose, since the card doesn't get any faster once you exceed ~330W or so


http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-edition,review-33896-4.html

Could be the reason ? As to the Why ? I have no idea, maybe it's built in like the temp/voltage step regulation ?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Apologies I misunderstood your original post, it didn't make it clear that you had monitored the other sensors and I didn't notice MSI AB had same sensors for other limits (Only been using 4 days since I got my card)


Understood and apology accepted.

http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-edition,review-33896-4.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Could be the reason ? As to the Why ? I have no idea, maybe it's built in like the temp/voltage step regulation ?


In my case it only happens in FurMark or other extreme loads.

I can and do see benefit from the full 150% on the power slider in other applications...for example, in Unigine Superposition or FF XIV Stormblood benchmarks, I can see sustained loads in the ballpark of 145% and spikes to 149%.

My best guess is there is some sort of power hysteresis that sees how high FurMark would spike and causes the limiter to kick in especially hard. This is only speculation, but Tom's results in your link seem to support it.

Likely the IC or the software interface used to poll it isn't fast enough to catch the spikes shown by FurMark. The limiter is probably working against peak values, while the display is averaged every few hundred ms or so.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Understood and apology accepted.
> 
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-edition,review-33896-4.html
> In my case it only happens in FurMark or other extreme loads.
> 
> I can and do see benefit from the full 150% on the power slider in other applications...for example, in Unigine Superposition or FF XIV Stormblood benchmarks, I can see sustained loads in the ballpark of 145% and spikes to 149%.
> 
> My best guess is there is some sort of power hysteresis that sees how high FurMark would spike and causes the limiter to kick in especially hard. This is only speculation, but Tom's results in your link seem to support it.
> 
> Likely the IC or the software interface used to poll it isn't fast enough to catch the spikes shown by FurMark. The limiter is probably working against peak values, while the display is averaged every few hundred ms or so.


Have you tested in 3D Mark too ? I haven't used Furmark but 3D Mark was triggering power limit for me despite being nowhere near the 150% TDP and for me it's the only benchmark I use that triggers it BUT I was getting the clocks, voltage and temps I had set so I didn't really think much of it.

I think as long as the clocks, voltage and temps are fine we shouldn't worry too much about not reaching max TDP


----------



## Blameless

Haven't run 3Dmark yet, but I'm testing max stable OC thus far in Superposition's game mode so I can loop it indefinitely.

Hitting 152% peak power, so the slider is definitely working.


----------



## 1080TYP

I noticed that the platine of my Aorus 1080 TI seems to be bended a bit right at the SLI connector as you can see on the image.

Does anyone else noticed this or is this a faulty build?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> Apologies I misunderstood your original post, it didn't make it clear that you had monitored the other sensors and I didn't notice MSI AB had same sensors for other limits (Only been using 4 days since I got my card)
> http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/aorus-gtx-1080-ti-xtreme-edition,review-33896-4.html
> 
> Could be the reason ? As to the Why ? I have no idea, maybe it's built in like the temp/voltage step regulation ?


Try another program. Furmark gets prematurely throttled on a lot of NVIDIA architectures. I can get my card to draw close to 150% power with spikes in to the 160% range using Superposition 8K rendering.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1080TYP*
> 
> Does anyone else noticed this or is this a faulty build?


That's a pretty severe bend. Was it like that before you installed it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Furmark gets prematurely throttled on a lot of NVIDIA architectures.


I'd have hoped with all the limiters in place that they'd have stopped singling out individual programs.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> That's a pretty severe bend. Was it like that before you installed it?
> I'd have hoped with all the limiters in place that they'd have stopped singling out individual programs.


Furmark gets especially hit in the balls. I don't know why. Try Superposition or Firestrike Ultra 4K and your card should be drawing 150%.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Furmark gets especially hit in the balls. I don't know why.


Around the Fermi era the driver used to detect FurMark.exe and OCCT.exe and throttle them specifically, but this was before the other limiters.

Seems rather redundant to keep doing something similar now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Try Superposition or Firestrike Ultra 4K and your card should be drawing 150%.


Yeah, I've seen 153% in Superposition.


----------



## WarMantis

I have a noobish power question for this beast. I experienced a crash where the screen abruptly goes black and fans spin up to 11. From what I gathered thus far, this could be due to a power supply issue and I am unsure if I connected this thing properly.

Ravage, you mentioned using a single 12V rail to supply the power for this card. My PSU has 4 12V rails. (XCLIO GREATPOWER X14S8P4 850W ATX12V / EPS12V 80). I presume I should be routing one of the 30A rails but how should I split the cable to the available card connectors? The NVidia reference card requirements online mention an 8 pin and 6 pin connector but this may be different for an aftermarket card. The AORUS has two 8 pin power connectors. The thing shipped with NO real installation literature which is kind of annoying for such an expensive component. Would love some input before I start juggling my power cords.

Thanks!


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMantis*
> 
> I presume I should be routing one of the 30A rails but how should I split the cable to the available card connectors?


If you can, you should be running an eight pin connector attached to an eight wire cable from each 30A rail to the card.

How old is that PSU, by the way?


----------



## WarMantis

Old. 5 years now.


----------



## WarMantis

400 watts...that is some juice. I thought that 8 pin connectors can each only carry 150 watts (300w total) and that the F2 card bios power limit only goes up to 300w?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMantis*
> 
> 400 watts...that is some juice. I thought that 8 pin connectors can each only carry 150 watts (300w total) and that the F2 card bios power limit only goes up to 300w?


O FFS. I don't know why that 150W myth keeps being propagated. The 150W limit is the "guideline" provided by the ATX spec which is extremely conservative. The actual connector and 18AWG cables that feed power can take north of 200A with no issues whatsoever.

If the power chip on the card demands more power through the PCIe cables, it will draw that extra power. The ATX spec of the 8 pin is meaningless.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMantis*
> 
> 400 watts...that is some juice. I thought that 8 pin connectors can each only carry 150 watts (300w total) and that the F2 card bios power limit only goes up to 300w?


I've pushed north of 450w through Fermi and Hawaii parts that only have 8-pin + 6-pin connectors, without significant issues. Then again, I've fried a few HEDT motherboards and one R9 290 by melting the EPS-12v or 8-pin PCI-E connectors, with as low as 7A a conductor.

Anyway, you want to split whatever load you have as evenly as possible between rails so you don't risk hitting OCP during a load spike.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> O FFS. I don't know why that 150W myth keeps being propagated. The 150W limit is the "guideline" provided by the ATX spec which is extremely conservative. The actual connector and 18AWG cables that feed power can take north of 200A with no issues whatsoever.
> 
> If the power chip on the card demands more power through the PCIe cables, it will draw that extra power. The ATX spec of the 8 pin is meaningless.


200A is 2400w at 12v. Try to push that through a PCI-E power cable and it will vaporize.

The ATX specs are quite conservative, and the 18AWG wire can handle quite a bit more, as can new, properly fit, connectors. However, I wouldn't ignore the guidelines, especially in the case of aging connectors that have seen dozens or hundreds of matings.

Every time I've seen a DC power cable fail anywhere near spec, without being obviously damaged, it was because of poor contact at the actual connector level, not because of the wire.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Haven't run 3Dmark yet, but I'm testing max stable OC thus far in Superposition's game mode so I can loop it indefinitely.
> 
> Hitting 152% peak power, so the slider is definitely working.


I was hitting power limit last night playing Overwatch, first game that's done this to me and surprising as it's not as intense as GTA 5 or Battlefield and neither of them are hitting power limit.

Also had some annoyance with voltage curve... I have it set at 2000mhz @ 1.012v in a flat line for higher voltages yet for some reason Overwatch was knocking it down to 1987mhz at times and other times would knock it up to 2012mhz, I'd go into AB and the whole flatline was reset either down or up.

Very strange as playing GTA V afterwards there was no issue


----------



## Blameless

I stopped using the voltage curve because it occasionally drifts up and down by one or two bins for some reason. Finding more consistency in controlling minimum and peak locks with a combination of clock and voltage offset sliders.

I'm currently at +20% voltage offset and +81MHz boost offset, which gives me 2012 or 2025MHz @ 70C on the core (with it reaching 2038 or 2050 if the card is unusually cool) across a wide spectrum of tests. Memory is stable in everything at 5940, but only if I keep it below 73C.

Going for 'everything' stable clocks. Right now 3DMark Timespy seems to crash the core most easily, while I test memory with eight instances of memtestG80 and looped FFXIV Stormblood bench (a full 100 loop run takes about ten hours and is extremely demanding at 4k maximum).

Absolute stable limit on the clocks of my sample seem to be around 2050 core and 6048 memory, but this requires essentially maximum voltage (without any mods) and peak temps below 65C (which requires 100% fan speed). Since it power limits in most demanding tests at these settings the actual performance gained by running them is minimal.


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> I stopped using the voltage curve because it occasionally drifts up and down by one or two bins for some reason. Finding more consistency in controlling minimum and peak locks with a combination of clock and voltage offset sliders.
> 
> I'm currently at +20% voltage offset and +81MHz boost offset, which gives me 2012 or 2025MHz @ 70C on the core (with it reaching 2038 or 2050 if the card is unusually cool) across a wide spectrum of tests. Memory is stable in everything at 5940, but only if I keep it below 73C.
> 
> Going for 'everything' stable clocks. Right now 3DMark Timespy seems to crash the core most easily, while I test memory with eight instances of memtestG80 and looped FFXIV Stormblood bench (a full 100 loop run takes about ten hours and is extremely demanding at 4k maximum).
> 
> Absolute stable limit on the clocks of my sample seem to be around 2050 core and 6048 memory, but this requires essentially maximum voltage (without any mods) and peak temps below 65C (which requires 100% fan speed). Since it power limits in most demanding tests at these settings the actual performance gained by running them is minimal.


70+ is pretty hot you want to be aiming more for 50 to 60 range, it's better to undervolt than overvolt


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> 70+ is pretty hot you want to be aiming more for 50 to 60 range, it's better to undervolt than overvolt


70's isn't bad. I happily run my card in the 70's all the time.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Minusorange*
> 
> 70+ is pretty hot you want to be aiming more for 50 to 60 range, it's better to undervolt than overvolt


This is the lowest practical voltage for maintaining stability at these clocks (1.043v for 2012MHz, 1.05v for 2025, 1.062 for 2038, and 1.075v for 2050, which is the peak clocks this combination will hit, but only at lower temps), and below 60C is impossible under long term heavy stress at these clocks and voltages, even with 100% fan speed (which I don't want to run).


----------



## Minusorange

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> This is the lowest practical voltage for maintaining stability at these clocks (1.043v for 2012MHz, 1.05v for 2025, 1.062 for 2038, and 1.075v for 2050, which is the peak clocks this combination will hit, but only at lower temps), and below 60C is impossible under long term heavy stress at these clocks and voltages, even with 100% fan speed (which I don't want to run).


At those volts sure you won't get below 60c, with 2000 @ 1.012v and around 70 to 80% fans it never goes above 60c and the noise isn't noticable from the fans (my CPU and case fans make more noise)

It all depends on if you want cooler temps and lower volts or go for pure max performance, my room is like an oven so for me I choose the lower temps and in the majority of games I'm getting well over 150 fps at 1080p so that extra few % fps is wasted compared to being able to run cooler it's the difference between playing at 160-170 fps and having my room 10c hotter so it's not worth it.

For benchmarks though I will go to the max possible (which is 2037 on this card @ 1.093v sucks) just to see the scores I can get but for everyday use much prefer being able to sit in my room with clothes on rather than the sauna it was when I had my 390


----------



## Blameless

I want the most performance possible, within the noise levels I'm willing to accept, while maintaining unconditional stability across all tasks for indefinite periods of time (it's going to be loaded 24/7) in worst case scenario ambients (~35C).

This sample isn't fully stable at 2GHz+ with 1.012v, unless I keep it colder than is practical.


----------



## AmphybiouS

Hi guys.. One question.
I would change my 1080 Ti Founders..
I heard that Aorus is the best Ti at the moment.. And there are two types..
There are many differences between normal and Xtreme version? May I change the frequencies via MSI Afterburner?

Thank you so much!


----------



## Kristodian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmphybiouS*
> 
> Hi guys.. One question.
> I would change my 1080 Ti Founders..
> I heard that Aorus is the best Ti at the moment.. And there are two types..
> There are many differences between normal and Xtreme version? May I change the frequencies via MSI Afterburner?
> 
> Thank you so much!


Im thinking about buying Aorus xtreme of Stix Oc , but guys here complain that it heats up, some fan hitting a pipe and making noise or something like this... I dont know... Im following the thread to know if its worth it just as you. Lets wait for answers


----------



## AmphybiouS

Heared this too.. I'm also interested in Strix and Aorus..


----------



## Blameless

Trying to tune down voltage a bit, and I've also reduced memory clock further on mine.

5940 memory requires much cooler temperatures than 5900, which seems to the sweet spot on this sample.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmphybiouS*
> 
> I heard that Aorus is the best Ti at the moment.. And there are two types..
> There are many differences between normal and Xtreme version? May I change the frequencies via MSI Afterburner?


There is essentially no practical difference between the two.

The Xtreme has a slightly different backplate, more LEDs, and a tiny bump in factory OC. There doesn't appear to be any difference in binning, and they use identical PCBs and coolers.

Yes, MSI AB can be used, though you want the newest Beta version (16 currently).


----------



## MaKeN

Even the VRMs are same between them?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Even the VRMs are same between them?


Yes. The whole PCB and everything on them is same on all of GB's non-reference 1080 Ti boards.


----------



## MaKeN

Yep i just took a look , they are the same 12+2 on both cards


----------



## AmphybiouS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Yes. The whole PCB and everything on them is same on all of GB's non-reference 1080 Ti boards.


Did you know If Strix also use the same pcb in the 2 MODELS (OC and normal)?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Yep i just took a look , they are the same 12+2 on both cards


The GPU VRM actually seems to be a quadrupled triple phase setup: 




Doesn't seem to harm anything though, as the VRM never operates near capacity and has a lot of output filtering.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AmphybiouS*
> 
> Did you know If Strix also use the same pcb in the 2 MODELS (OC and normal)?


Haven't looked into it, but I'd be very surprised if ASUS wasted money on making two different Strix PCBs.


----------



## MaKeN

They are both 10+2 phase design


----------



## Supelp12

My first post here after lurking for a long time! Got my auros xtreme 1080ti 2 weeks ago which happen to be my very first nvidia gpu coming from a 290x cf. System spec includes auros z270, 7600k cpu, 115i cooler, all fans are noctua. Seasonic prime platinum 850. Cpu clocked to 4.8 and temp max at 76c. Case 780t.
After fiddling for a while, I concluded that the auros engine is crap. It is only good for setting the led color. With the gpu installed, the advanced mode of the mobo rgb does not work. Hope there will be a update later.
Installed the msi afterburner and max out the slider for voltage, power limit and temp. With a room temperature of around 29c and custom fan curve, temperature max at around 72c mostly in benchmark and games. Exception is with Crysis3 at 77c(still a gpu killer after all this)
Fire strike ultra at 7320
Timespy at 8960
Superposition 4K optimized at 10225
Core at +20 offset and memory at +500.
Core start at 2063 and settle at 2038 with voltage at around 1.05v.
Strangely for battlefield 1 core stays at 2060? Wonder why.
Overall happy with the purchase. Ordered some grizzly thermal paste and will slap some heat sink and a noctua fan on the backplate( the thing are scorching hot!).


----------



## gpvecchi

I'd say that the difference beetween Strix and Aorus are small: Strix has a little cooler GPU and much hotter VRMs; Aorus is more quiet because of a lower fan speed.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> Strangely for battlefield 1 core stays at 2060? Wonder why.


Lower load.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> I'd say that the difference beetween Strix and Aorus are small: Strix has a little cooler GPU and much hotter VRMs; Aorus is more quiet because of a lower fan speed.


Actually on the contrary, the Strix VRMs are colder and are much better at regulating voltage than the Aorus.

The MOSFETs on the Strix are rated at 92% efficiency peak while the ones on the Aorus top out at 88%.
The only reason the Strix has the VRMs running hotter is the air cooling for them isn't quite as good. Even then, their efficiency under water is measurable, the Strix card (with same padded backplate setup as the Aorus) barely get hot while my Aorus can push the backplate temps to 55C.

On the topic of regulation, the Strix is much better because they use a 5+ doubler setup while the Aorus uses a complex 3 + Quadrupler setup (actually even now we don't fully understand how the Aorus one works) but we do know the Strix has much more stable voltage regulation.


----------



## NovaGOD

I upgraded my gpu to the extreme edition and played a little bit with afterburned, i pushed the core to 2075 using custom voltage curve(1.050v/2025 and then 2075/1.062 etc) and +300 on memory(which creates green flashing artifacts after playing a lot so i use +240 stable now). Power limit is 140, voltage +40 and a custom fan curve(after 50c i set it to 100%). I got this score on timespy

https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/22022089

cpu is a limiting factor as i can tell(planning to upgrade to 8700k) but is the graphics score good for this card? Do i need to flash another bios, tweak afterburner settings more? I don't usually like to overclock gpu's that's why i always buy "factory oc" but i couldn't resist to play around this time.









ps: i have kboost always on as i feel it helps with mouse polling rate and reduces microstutters.


----------



## b4thman

I am thinking on buying a GIGABYTE AORUS GTX 1080 Ti (NO extreme) videocard, it is 720€ on Amazon. Can you please tell me if there is anything I should be carefull about this card? Should I check the bios or the release date? What do you think about this card in general, is it worth paying the money or should I focus on MSI or Strix instead?


----------



## Blameless

Since I need more cooling than I originally thought to keep 11880Gbps memory stable, I decided to revisit undervolting with the VF curves and finally think I have something I like.

Running 2025MHz core with 1.025v currently, using a fan slope that keeps it around 65C load. Going to see if 2037 is stable with 1.025v, but that's likely as far as I'll be able to get it before hitting the power limit a bit too frequently in more stressful tests.

Edit: 1.025v was crashing in TimeSpy, so I bumped voltage up to 1.031v.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> Can you please tell me if there is anything I should be carefull about this card?


Some occasional QA issues regarding assembly. I'd look over the card to make sure everything is as it should before installing it. In particular make sure the fans spin freely and that the screws holding the cooler to the PCB are tightened snugly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> Should I check the bios or the release date?


I would update the card to the F3P firmware from Gigabyte's site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> What do you think about this card in general, is it worth paying the money or should I focus on MSI or Strix instead?


Going to depend on cost. I went with this part because it was the best value of available options.

Without crossflashing firmware from another model, the Aorus has the highest power limit and will provide just as much performance at similar or better noise levels.


----------



## Supelp12

While waiting for the grizzly paste to arrived, decided to use the voltage curve to do the overclocking. Maintaining the same setting in msi afterburner, I open up the curve. Applying the voltage at 1.093v, I moved the core to 2080 and hit apply. Run some benchmark and a few games. Surprising temperatures did not go up but almost the same- in fact it seem to be slightly lower on occasions!
Core speed stable at either 2063 or 2076.
Fan speed were capped at 80% which is audible but I would consider very quiet and not irritating.
I am running a 4K monitor

Timespy 9061
Fire strike ultra 7384
Sup 10232
Heaven 1113

Hope retim will bring the temp down a few degrees which will allow me lower the fan speed for a really quiet built though current speed is perfectly ok for me.


----------



## MaKeN

Looking at ypur setup , i cant really understand that sandwich in front as an intake...
I mean, fans are different brand/speed etc..
But do all those 9 fans in that sandwich really brings you that much air vs only 3 noctuas? I see no restrictions there, no rad or something...
Also that fan in the bottom its so close to the intake ones , isnt it simply overpowered by the front ones and has almost no efect of pushing the air to the top?


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Looking at ypur setup , i cant really understand that sandwich in front as an intake...
> I mean, fans are different brand/speed etc..
> But do all those 9 fans in that sandwich really brings you that much air vs only 3 noctuas? I see no restrictions there, no rad or something...


Maybe the 3 black fans are just the shrouds. basically creating a gap between the fans and the rad. From tests I've seen it doesn't really do much, but, whatever. It's a thing.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Maybe the 3 black fans are just the shrouds. basically creating a gap between the fans and the rad. From tests I've seen it doesn't really do much, but, whatever. It's a thing.


The stack are diy fan shroud which I scavenge from cheap fans which I no longer used. The front intake has double shroud and the other fans including the one on the 115i radiator has a single shroud. My experiments do indicate the shrouds do bring temp down by most 2c. Not much. But the real reason that I do the shroud thing is to create a gap between the fan and the surface to cut out noise. This is especially so for the intake fan. The bottom intake does help to bring the temp lower and allow me to run the system fans at a reduced speed to reduce noise.


----------



## MaKeN

Ive aded another 360mm rad in the loop, man that 1080ti waterforce loves low temps, for now it easy does 2025/6318 @ 1.00mv max temp 39c . Love that card.


----------



## beekermartin

Has anyone modified the stock extreme edition back plate to work with an EK waterblock? I can't tell if the threaded retainers that the screws from the front of the card thread into can be easily removed. I am not sure if they are pressed in place or if they can be unthreaded?

I like the look of the back plate and would llike to use it with the EK block if possible. I don't want to permanently modify it so I can't reuse it with the air cooler as well. Odds are I'll have to buy the EK back plate but I figured I would ask first.


----------



## Supelp12

Auros xtreme has a variant that come with the EK waterblock pre installed. That should make life easier for those going the custom water way.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Ive aded another 360mm rad in the loop, man that 1080ti waterforce loves low temps, for now it easy does 2025/6318 @ 1.00mv max temp 39c . Love that card.


Sweet...I'm running mine with the Phanteks waterblock and original backplate at 2025Mhz and 0.981v. Try it and see with the curve method


----------



## MaKeN

Yea when i get home ill try 2050 at 1.0mv , if not ill try as yours
Thx


----------



## Supahflii

I feel like I've tried every combination of voltage, power limit, core clock, and memory clock. I think I just lost the lottery. Can't hold stable 2 Mghz. Sad times. Closes I could get was 1987.


----------



## MaKeN

@supahflii
Can you post your curve in msi afterburner?


----------



## Supahflii

Steady right now at this setting in PUBG. Witcher 3, it throttles anywhere form 1987 to 1999.


----------



## MaKeN

So you tried 2000 at 1.0mv ?


----------



## Baden

Hi guys,

Quick question, My Aorus Xtreme is currently overclocked and holds 2025 Clock and 5982 memory, haven't touched the voltage, my temps normal hover about 60-70 but do peak at about 75 degrees some times, does this seem a bit high? I have a pretty aggressive fan curve already which keeps the fans 90% at 60 degrees and above.

Plus when my temps do hit 75 degrees the clock will drop down to about 2012-1999 but then goes back up to 2025 when 65-70 degrees. Is this normal?

Cheers Lads!


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Quick question, My Aorus Xtreme is currently overclocked and holds 2025 Clock and 5982 memory, haven't touched the voltage, my temps normal hover about 60-70 but do peak at about 75 degrees some times, does this seem a bit high? I have a pretty aggressive fan curve already which keeps the fans 90% at 60 degrees and above.
> 
> Plus when my temps do hit 75 degrees the clock will drop down to about 2012-1999 but then goes back up to 2025 when 65-70 degrees. Is this normal?
> 
> Cheers Lads!


That sounds normal to me. What do you have the power limit set to?


----------



## Baden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> That sounds normal to me. What do you have the power limit set to?


I have it maxed power limit 150% and temp limit 90 degrees.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Hi guys,
> 
> Quick question, My Aorus Xtreme is currently overclocked and holds 2025 Clock and 5982 memory, haven't touched the voltage, my temps normal hover about 60-70 but do peak at about 75 degrees some times, does this seem a bit high? I have a pretty aggressive fan curve already which keeps the fans 90% at 60 degrees and above.
> 
> Plus when my temps do hit 75 degrees the clock will drop down to about 2012-1999 but then goes back up to 2025 when 65-70 degrees. Is this normal?
> 
> Cheers Lads!
> 
> 
> 
> That sounds normal to me. What do you have the power limit set to?
Click to expand...

Too hot. Better case venting recommended. My non-xtreme goes to 63 Celsius in Furmark stress, around 59 in ultra modded games. I run it at 2075 in most games and all bemchmarks, 5977 memory. need to set to 2050 in SkyrimSE with reshade and ENB running together. Playing @1440p. I have very good case venting.


----------



## Baden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Too hot. Better case venting recommended. My non-xtreme goes to 63 Celsius in Furmark stress, around 59 in ultra modded games. I run it at 2075 in most games and all bemchmarks, 5977 memory. need to set to 2050 in SkyrimSE with reshade and ENB running together. Playing @1440p. I have very good case venting.


Well here's the thing, i have a Corsair 540 and its well vented with 9 fans. So don't think that's it. What case do you have?


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> I have it maxed power limit 150% and temp limit 90 degrees.


Ok. Everything sounds normal to me. Frequency will drop every few degrees the temperature goes up. That is normal and how GPU boost now works.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> Has anyone modified the stock extreme edition back plate to work with an EK waterblock? I can't tell if the threaded retainers that the screws from the front of the card thread into can be easily removed. I am not sure if they are pressed in place or if they can be unthreaded?
> 
> I like the look of the back plate and would llike to use it with the EK block if possible. I don't want to permanently modify it so I can't reuse it with the air cooler as well. Odds are I'll have to buy the EK back plate but I figured I would ask first.


Anyone???


----------



## Baden

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> Ok. Everything sounds normal to me. Frequency will drop every few degrees the temperature goes up. That is normal and how GPU boost now works.


Cool, i thought they weren't that bad just wondered as some people have super low temps on load. Must just be hot in my room


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Cool, i thought they weren't that bad just wondered as some people have super low temps on load. Must just be hot in my room


I was getting temps in the mid 50's low 60's at 100% fan speed when I was using the air cooler. That is with my room temp at 22-23c. Mid 70's is high but there are many factors that can contribute to that. Ambient temp, case air flow, cpu cooler type, etc. If you room temperature is low and you have plenty of air flow in your case then I would recommend changing the thermal paste. It might help drop the temps a few degrees. With that said mid 70's is safe and your card is performing well.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Quick question, My Aorus Xtreme is currently overclocked and holds 2025 Clock and 5982 memory, haven't touched the voltage, my temps normal hover about 60-70 but do peak at about 75 degrees some times, does this seem a bit high? I have a pretty aggressive fan curve already which keeps the fans 90% at 60 degrees and above.


That's a little warm for that fan speed.

Assuming your ambients aren't unusually high and your case has solid airflow, you may want to make sure the screws holding the cooler to the PCB are snug.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Plus when my temps do hit 75 degrees the clock will drop down to about 2012-1999 but then goes back up to 2025 when 65-70 degrees. Is this normal?


That's normal. The voltage/clock curve has a temperature based offset.


----------



## Hl86

Damn im bummed.
On one side, i get +615 vram and on the other side, i can only get 1975 on the core.
Guess that´s good enough


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hl86*
> 
> Damn im bummed.
> On one side, i get +615 vram and on the other side, i can only get 1975 on the core.
> Guess that´s good enough


+615 is pretty good and will probably result in as much, if not more, of a performance increase at higher resolutions as another ~50MHz core would, vs. a more average memory clock increase.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Well here's the thing, i have a Corsair 540 and its well vented with 9 fans. So don't think that's it. What case do you have?


I currently have a cheap old Centurion 590 I got for 15 EUR. I installed 2 Scythe 140mm fans in front, 2 120mm fans on top and one rear:








Big fotos:


http://imgur.com/uODfG


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> Anyone???


Also curious about this.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> Has anyone modified the stock extreme edition back plate to work with an EK waterblock? I can't tell if the threaded retainers that the screws from the front of the card thread into can be easily removed. I am not sure if they are pressed in place or if they can be unthreaded?
> 
> I like the look of the back plate and would llike to use it with the EK block if possible. I don't want to permanently modify it so I can't reuse it with the air cooler as well. Odds are I'll have to buy the EK back plate but I figured I would ask first.


I tried to unscrew one of the threaded retainers from the back plate and it would not budge. The entire retainer would spin when I applied a lot of torque. I assume they are press fit in when the plate is manufactured. They would have to be permanently modified in order to remove them. Only the four, two on each end, would need to be removed. The two around the core could be left in. In theory they could all be left in but the card wouldn't sit flush against the back of the card. Part of the threaded retainers are designed to go through the card. Since they would be pressed against the screws that hold the EK water block on it would stick up on both ends. Too bad. I was hoping I could easily remove those threaded retainers and use the stock back plate. It appears that without permanently modifying the back plate it won't be possible without the card sticking up on the ends.

Does anyone else have any ideas?


----------



## Supelp12

Battlefield 1

Metro Last Light Redux

Feud Ex- Mankind Divided

Rise of the Tomb Raider

Waiting for the grizzly thermal kryonaut and heat sink to come in and see if can drop temp a couple c !


----------



## b4thman

Today I have received this card "Aorus GTX 1080 TI" (no extreme). I can not install Nvidia drivers because windows 7 only recognize Standard VGA. I have checked everything and all seems to be right, I have even changed PCIe slots.

One thing weird is that this unit comes with 8 pin + 6 pin connector (not the usual 8pin + 8pin). It also has an cable adaptor that I have no idea what is for, and no instruction about it. The adaptor is 8 pin male in one side, and the other side has 6pin + 6pin females. My PSU has two 6+2pin. The only way to make the computer start is not using the adapter and just one 6+2 to the 8pin and 6 (leaving the +2) to the 6 pin of the graphic card, and I can use the computer but the card is not recognized by Nvidia drivers.

I hope this unit with the adapter is not intended to use 3x6 pin (6pin + cable adapter that uses other 2x6pin), in wich case I don't have the right psu. My PSU is "URANO VX 750"


----------



## Supelp12

While waiting for the kryonaut and heat sink to come in( hopefully they will reduced the temp a few c), here are pictures.....


Custom fan curve


Voltage curve


Rise of the Tomb Raider benchmark


Deus Ex Mandkind Divided in game


Metro Last Light Redux in game


Battlefield 1 in game


----------



## ROKUGAN

Battlefield 1 in game[/quote]

Gratz, seems you´ve won the lottery. Mine (Aorus Xtreme) will briefly peak at 2037Mhz but 2025Mhz is my rock-stable OC ([email protected])
I personally think that in a majority of cases there´s not much to be won messing with the voltage curve, it´s mostly all about sillicon luck.
What´s the clock difference in yours with the default curve and with your personalized voltage curve?


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ROKUGAN*
> 
> 
> Battlefield 1 in game


Gratz, seems you´ve won the lottery. Mine (Aorus Xtreme) will briefly peak at 2037Mhz but 2025Mhz is my rock-stable OC ([email protected])
I personally think that in a majority of cases there´s not much to be won messing with the voltage curve, it´s mostly all about sillicon luck.
What´s the clock difference in yours with the default curve and with your personalized voltage curve?[/quote]
With default curve, I am stable at 2038 with +20 offset. Memory is at +500. Little change in temp with same custom fan curve.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> Auros xtreme has a variant that come with the EK waterblock pre installed. That should make life easier for those going the custom water way.


Its not an EK block. It doesn't have a jet plate, and one of the EK reps here said it's not anEK. The absence of an EK logo is also pretty telling... They badge everything.

It's also not a Bitspower block, or at least the Bitspower flow bridges don't fit it. The block is either a custom job or it's made by Barrow/Bykski.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> I tried to unscrew one of the threaded retainers from the back plate and it would not budge. The entire retainer would spin when I applied a lot of torque. I assume they are press fit in when the plate is manufactured. They would have to be permanently modified in order to remove them. Only the four, two on each end, would need to be removed. The two around the core could be left in. In theory they could all be left in but the card wouldn't sit flush against the back of the card. Part of the threaded retainers are designed to go through the card. Since they would be pressed against the screws that hold the EK water block on it would stick up on both ends. Too bad. I was hoping I could easily remove those threaded retainers and use the stock back plate. It appears that without permanently modifying the back plate it won't be possible without the card sticking up on the ends.
> 
> Does anyone else have any ideas?


Anyone??? I really want to use the stock back plate over paying ~$40 for the boring looking EK back plate. I wish there was an easy way to remove those threaded retainers...


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> Today I have received this card "Aorus GTX 1080 TI" (no extreme). I can not install Nvidia drivers because windows 7 only recognize Standard VGA.


Sounds like the part is defective.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> Today I have received this card "Aorus GTX 1080 TI" (no extreme). I can not install Nvidia drivers because windows 7 only recognize Standard VGA. I have checked everything and all seems to be right, I have even changed PCIe slots.
> 
> One thing weird is that this unit comes with 8 pin + 6 pin connector (not the usual 8pin + 8pin).


Can you take some pictures of this card, cause I've never heard of an Aorus 1080 Ti like this.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Its not an EK block. It doesn't have a jet plate, and one of the EK reps here said it's not anEK. The absence of an EK logo is also pretty telling... They badge everything.
> 
> It's also not a Bitspower block, or at least the Bitspower flow bridges don't fit it. The block is either a custom job or it's made by Barrow/Bykski.


My bad! I had make assumptions. Must have mix it up with some other card. But the block seems well implemented and looks cool!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> Anyone??? I really want to use the stock back plate over paying ~$40 for the boring looking EK back plate. I wish there was an easy way to remove those threaded retainers...


Unless it absolutely has to be an EK, I recommend you look at the Bitspower block. It is fully compatible with the stock backplate and is a well designed block.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> My bad! I had make assumptions. Must have mix it up with some other card. But the block seems well implemented and looks cool!


It's a really nice block. I haven't built my system but I'm really glad I went with these cards (plural)! The block looks nicer than an EK does IMO, and should cool better (the EK block misses the VRM phases for the memory). The RGB is integrated in a metallic fleck that is just really cool looking. I'm expecting that I'll be spoiled by how nice these blocks are.

Part of me really thinks it has a bitspower block, but that Gigabyte ordered the block with hole spacing that matches EK and/or Barrow. The bitspower block is the only one that has a fin plate structure close to what this has. I haven't been willing to rip off the really nice Aorus logo to expose the entire block or I could say for certain. Whoever makes it did a really fantastic job. I haven't owned a lot of watercooled parts yet to say from long term experience, but from what I've held, this is right up there.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Unless it absolutely has to be an EK, I recommend you look at the Bitspower block. It is fully compatible with the stock backplate and is a well designed block.


I already have the EK block installed. I know the memory VRM isn't covered but I talked with EK and they said it wasn't necessary. They said they spent hours testing and it was not necessary to cool the memory VRM. I also watched the Gamer Nexus Youtube video when the Aorus PCB is analyzed. Basically the memory VRM is extreme overkill and will barely get warm. I forget the exact amount of heat it could generate but it was basically nothing and didn't require cooling.


----------



## lars7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Actually on the contrary, the Strix VRMs are colder and are much better at regulating voltage than the Aorus.
> 
> The MOSFETs on the Strix are rated at 92% efficiency peak while the ones on the Aorus top out at 88%.
> The only reason the Strix has the VRMs running hotter is the air cooling for them isn't quite as good. Even then, their efficiency under water is measurable, the Strix card (with same padded backplate setup as the Aorus) barely get hot while my Aorus can push the backplate temps to 55C.
> 
> On the topic of regulation, the Strix is much better because they use a 5+ doubler setup while the Aorus uses a complex 3 + Quadrupler setup (actually even now we don't fully understand how the Aorus one works) but we do know the Strix has much more stable voltage regulation.


https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835709090&cm_re=phanteks_aorus-_-35-709-090-_-Product

Phanteks block, RGB and works with the stock backplate. I bought this and have installed it already. It's nicer than the EK variant IMO


----------



## MaKeN

Yep this one looks really good for a waterblock


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> I already have the EK block installed. I know the memory VRM isn't covered but I talked with EK and they said it wasn't necessary. They said they spent hours testing and it was not necessary to cool the memory VRM. I also watched the Gamer Nexus Youtube video when the Aorus PCB is analyzed. Basically the memory VRM is extreme overkill and will barely get warm. I forget the exact amount of heat it could generate but it was basically nothing and didn't require cooling.


If you touch the backplate of the air version of the xtreme where the vrm are it is scorching hot. It definitely needs cooling


----------



## beekermartin

We are talking about just the memory VRM right? Of course the Vcore VRM needs cooling and the EK block does cool that. I was concerned about the memory VRM not being cooled but EK assured me it is not necessary.






Check out ~14 minutes in. He describes that it only outputting between 1-3 watts of heat. Extremely negligible I believe is how he puts it.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> We are talking about just the memory VRM right? Of course the Vcore VRM needs cooling and the EK block does cool that. I was concerned about the memory VRM not being cooled but EK assured me it is not necessary.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out ~14 minutes in. He describes that it only outputting between 1-3 watts of heat. Extremely negligible I believe is how he puts it.


My understanding is when we talk about vrm we are referring to vrm as a whole. But I still feel EK is taking a short cut to cut cost.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> My understanding is when we talk about vrm we are referring to vrm as a whole. But I still feel EK is taking a short cut to cut cost.


More like they probably did a cost-benefit analysis and it came out ad not worth it to extend the block to cover the VRAM VRM. I would argue it should be actively cooled becuase there is a bit of a hotbox scenario underneath the waterblock currently.

I cooled mine via padding on the backplate. Despite EK's stance, my backplate registered 55c via k-probe in that region, which means the VRAM mosfets are at least 80C tjunction.


----------



## Blameless

The PCB itself (which is 10-12 layers of copper sandwiched between layers of fiberglass, making it a fairly decent heatsink) should provide adequate cooling for the memory VRM.

Of course, stuffing some thermal pads under the backplate won't hurt.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Despite EK's stance, my backplate registered 55c via k-probe in that region, which means the VRAM mosfets are at least 80C tjunction.


Which means that if the VRAM was pulling twice as much current and got 40C hotter you might start to have issues.


----------



## SavantStrike

Count me in! The water force WB is decadent.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> 
> 
> Count me in! The water force WB is decadent.


Yours? Damn. I am green with envy!


----------



## migrained

Is the F3P Bios compatible with the WB XTREME Edition?

Im asking because the support page for the WB XTREME edition doesn't have the F3P BIOS under its list of downloads.
F3P BIOS is only listed under the Xtreme Editions (the one with 3 fans).

Just want to make sure it will also work with my WB Xtreme edition without problems


----------



## Supelp12

Just got this in the mail! Will report back once I manage to find time to do it.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> Yours? Damn. I am green with envy!


Yeah, this is most likely the highest end computer I'll ever own. I do zcash mining and it will partially offset my costs. I sold some of my older gear to pay for some of this, but I'll be on the hook for 6 months in a volatile market. Plus even though I don't beat the crap out of my gear, some people do so I'm sure the used market will suck

Worth it though.. I've always wanted quad GPUs just one time. VR SLI benchmarks should be coming in the next month or so.


----------



## Supelp12

Just did a repaste with the grizzly kryonaut. I had earlier done a repaste with the mx4 with almost little to no difference. But the kryonaut is simply amazing. It drop the temp by at least 5c ti 6c! Core more stable. Performance more stable and consistent. The stuff is expensive but definitely worth. Will try it on the cpu(115i) later.

With mx4 paste(1c or so lower than stock).


Grizzly kryonaut


----------



## WarMantis

Been having some trouble with my new, stock Gigabyte Aorus non-extreme. I gently brushed one of the power cables running to the card while examining the inside of the case and the fans spun up to a 100 and I lost signal to the monitor. This has happened once before and from what I read it is a safety mechanism for the card. Unlike last time, however, the picture has not returned following a power-down and reboot.

Over the past week or so (while it was still working), I ran multiple tests with Heaven set to Ultra and custom 3440x1440 resolution (I have the Predator x34) and I was getting stable runs with FPS in the 80s. Temp would plateau in the 60s after setting a generous fan curve in Afterburner. Despite the testing, I can only get a very pleasant 30-40 minutes in Witcher 3 at 60 FPS with all settings to ultra (minus hairworks) before the game starts to stutter and eventually freezes, forcing Alt-tab and close from desktop.

Overall, this card seems to be rather finicky. I was hoping for a smoother experience after a very expensive upgrade and am wondering if I should just return the damn thing, or am I missing some issue with my system? Is the performance issue and lack of display from the DP related? I had flashed to F3P and updated nvidia drivers as well with no performance improvement.

Sorry if this sounds disjointed but I feel like I am flailing.


----------



## canisfortis

Auros non-extreme. Can't seem to get the card to remain anywhere near 2000mhz. Usually downclocks itself to 1932/1911.

Power Limit and Temp Target set to max, custom fan curve to hit 100% at 35 degrees Celsius. Have not increased volts.

If I use the manual curve function to perform the OC and set say 1043 to 1999mhz it crashes, whereas some are getting mid 2000s at 1031. I must have a bad overclocker.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarMantis*
> 
> Been having some trouble with my new, stock Gigabyte Aorus non-extreme. I gently brushed one of the power cables running to the card while examining the inside of the case and the fans spun up to a 100 and I lost signal to the monitor. This has happened once before and from what I read it is a safety mechanism for the card. Unlike last time, however, the picture has not returned following a power-down and reboot.
> 
> Over the past week or so (while it was still working), I ran multiple tests with Heaven set to Ultra and custom 3440x1440 resolution (I have the Predator x34) and I was getting stable runs with FPS in the 80s. Temp would plateau in the 60s after setting a generous fan curve in Afterburner. Despite the testing, I can only get a very pleasant 30-40 minutes in Witcher 3 at 60 FPS with all settings to ultra (minus hairworks) before the game starts to stutter and eventually freezes, forcing Alt-tab and close from desktop.
> 
> Overall, this card seems to be rather finicky. I was hoping for a smoother experience after a very expensive upgrade and am wondering if I should just return the damn thing, or am I missing some issue with my system? Is the performance issue and lack of display from the DP related? I had flashed to F3P and updated nvidia drivers as well with no performance improvement.
> 
> Sorry if this sounds disjointed but I feel like I am flailing.


You mentioned it happened after touching the power cable. Check if the 2 8 pin cable are snugly plug in. Best unplug and plug in again snugly. Or try another set if cable. Which psu are you using?


----------



## Blameless

If you have one of these cards and haven't taken it apart to replace the TIM, make sure the cooler screws are snug. Mine were loose by almost a full turn out-of-box.


----------



## khaela

Close all you can in win... with a new install, 2114/6220... at 44° c and the r1700 at 4k.


----------



## oldboy75

DP


----------



## oldboy75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *canisfortis*
> 
> Auros non-extreme. Can't seem to get the card to remain anywhere near 2000mhz. Usually downclocks itself to 1932/1911.
> 
> Power Limit and Temp Target set to max, custom fan curve to hit 100% at 35 degrees Celsius. Have not increased volts.
> 
> If I use the manual curve function to perform the OC and set say 1043 to 1999mhz it crashes, whereas some are getting mid 2000s at 1031. I must have a bad overclocker.


Theres quite a few of the non extremes like yours. the one i have goes nowhere near above 2000+ mhz.. mine will only go up to 1987mhz then downclocks and will then settle down to 1932mhz under load. adding a bit of voltage gets me to a constant 1962 mhz stable. thats the best my card will do.


----------



## AA junkie

I read every single post of that thread and i can confirm that this was a long but very usefull read.
On Thursday my Aorus(non extreme) will arrive, and i have to say that i am bit preoccupied from what i have read.
Cause in our case we are not talking only about the classic silicon lottery, but even about asembly matters, paste application, psu rails complication, even motherboard incompatibility - thank god i don't have an asus!
So fingers crossed, i hope to receive a problem free piece of hardware.
But even if things go bad, I am prepared to face most of the difficulties thanks to this thread.

I want to ask you only one question for the moment.
If my gpu arrives with other than the F3P bios, i decided to flash the F3P straight out of the box.
Do i have to install the drivers before flashing or can i flash the card and after install the drivers ?


----------



## oldboy75

I flashed my bios with the drivers already installed with no problems. the non extreme is a good card AA junkie, im sure you'll not be disappointed with it


----------



## Kutalion

My aorus non-extreme decided to stop working. (No signal) at startup, last boot it was fine. Nothing changed. Replugged psu cables and everything nope. Only when i inserted another card did I get picture. After that i replugged my aorus and it worked fine. Quirky little devil.


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldboy75*
> 
> I flashed my bios with the drivers already installed with no problems


Actually what i really wanted to know is if the opposite is possible.
To flash the card without the drivers installed.
I am a bit of details freak and i want the first drivers installation to find the card with the F3P bios.

Thanks you for your reply.


----------



## Kutalion

It is recommended even to disable drivers during flashing. So yes by all means flash w/o drivers.


----------



## canisfortis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldboy75*
> 
> Theres quite a few of the non extremes like yours. the one i have goes nowhere near above 2000+ mhz.. mine will only go up to 1987mhz then downclocks and will then settle down to 1932mhz under load. adding a bit of voltage gets me to a constant 1962 mhz stable. thats the best my card will do.


Thanks for the reply. Good to get a confirmation that I'm not alone


----------



## TheoDouk

Hey guys, Currently the best bios to put on these cards is what do you reckon? is there a specific bios for the xtreme waterforce for instance? or maybe flashing the evga kingpin onto the card would make a difference too?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> Yours? Damn. I am green with envy!


The gigabyte BIOS is generous unless you get to crazy power ceilings. And you can keep al l the outputs. Stay stock unless you're going for more than 375W


----------



## Schievelbein

Which water block are you using?
I am trying to figure out which to use on my cards.
Work gave me 4 Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme cards, to replace my old 980 cards
Only two will fit into my system due to the width.
I can easily add water cooling if that will help, since I will be running these cards 100% most all day every day doing deep learning.
I am up to suggestions on what will give me the narrowest card and best cooling.
I saw the post about the PHANTEKS PH-GB1080TiGB_BK02 and they seem as they might make the card fit in the 2 slot limits....
If anybody knows of a motherboard that can handle 4 Aorus Xtreme without the watercooling, and using an i7 or i9, that is an option also, but cannot find one of those either.
Thank you for any and all suggestions.


----------



## ludkoto

Hello guys

I got a 1080ti Aorus Extream so far i enjoy the card a lot. MY card is not a great overclocker it goes safely to 2025 can hold it easyly with a good fan curve i tried the core curve thing in afterburner but not much gain i think the volts are stoping her to go higher temps are around 60C memery is OK OC easyly go 12k. OCeing the 1080ti is way diferent then OCeing the 970 or somethin like it. I gues pascal wants a custume loop but here this stuff is very expensive so not gonna bother.
Now i have settled with just maxing Power, temp and a fan curve and let the card boost as much as it can considering i play on 1080p so no need some basd ass OC.
Overall i like the it is silent till like 85-90% fan so its ok looks great and its very fast. I only with it had Strix fan hubs for 2 fans.


----------



## Donadan

hello everyone

I just ordered 2 GIGABYTE AORUS Xtreme GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB 11GD and planning to do a custom serial water cooling loop for it and would appriciate it if you could give me some pointers on what i might need for it as this is my first time building the loop myself.
thanks in advance


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Donadan*
> 
> hello everyone
> 
> I just ordered 2 GIGABYTE AORUS Xtreme GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB 11GD and planning to do a custom serial water cooling loop for it and would appriciate it if you could give me some pointers on what i might need for it as this is my first time building the loop myself.
> thanks in advance


I'd be happy to help. I just finished my first custom loop using 4 of these (I'm crazy).

I did a lot of digging and neither EK or Bits power make the block. I bought a bits power bridge I can't use to confirm this, so don't waste your money like I did.

Since there is no fancy bridge, to connect multiple cards you will need to use adjustable fittings or custom pieces of solid or flexible tube with Normal fittings. I went the adjustable fitting route as it's really nice looking and only costs 5-10 bucks a fitting. Two cards in series will only require a single fitting.

For fittings, I highly recommend the swiftech adjustable lok seal fittings. They use a locking nut in the middle of the fitting for both the medium and large lengths. They can handke a boat load of abuse without leaking (my setup with 6 of them held solid at 15 psi of pressure - what many radiators are rated at).

The medium is just the right length to do 2 slot card spacing (really one slot between blocks). The large is probably right for three slot and should handle 4 or 5 slots when extended) I'll take pictures of a spare medium when I get home of you'd like.

The picture you see here, I assembled all of the cards together outside the case and then dropped them in the PCIE slots, then I tightened the middle lock nuts on the fittings. I used 6 fittings because my blocks are set up in parallel.

You'll notice the last card doesn't have an Aorus logo. You can remove it with ahobby knife and take the screws that hold the header off. This will allow you to install the cards and piping separately, but if you do, make sure you pressure test with air first. I spent 40 minutes testing and had to re-Mount the header twice before I didn't have any leaks.


----------



## Donadan

Any information would be helpful
also the exact name and models of the parts you are recommending so i don't buy the wrong part.
thanks


----------



## AA junkie

Are the leds on the non extreme model enabled/lighten by default ?
If yes, is it possible to unplug the leds cable without disassembling the card ?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Are the leds on the non extreme model enabled/lighten by deafault ?
> If yes, is it possible to unplug the leds cable without disassembling the card ?


Yes and yes.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Donadan*
> 
> Any information would be helpful
> also the exact name and models of the parts you are recommending so i don't buy the wrong part.
> thanks


What's your slot spacing? I can find the part number but it changes depending on hire far apart your cards are.


----------



## Donadan

using a Asus - MAXIMUS IX FORMULA ATX LGA1151 motherboard.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schievelbein*
> 
> Which water block are you using?
> I am trying to figure out which to use on my cards.
> Work gave me 4 Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme cards, to replace my old 980 cards
> Only two will fit into my system due to the width.
> I can easily add water cooling if that will help, since I will be running these cards 100% most all day every day doing deep learning.
> I am up to suggestions on what will give me the narrowest card and best cooling.
> I saw the post about the PHANTEKS PH-GB1080TiGB_BK02 and they seem as they might make the card fit in the 2 slot limits....
> If anybody knows of a motherboard that can handle 4 Aorus Xtreme without the watercooling, and using an i7 or i9, that is an option also, but cannot find one of those either.
> Thank you for any and all suggestions.


The Aorus 1080 ti cooler takes up ~2.5 slots. There is no mobo I know of that can handle four of these with the stock air coolers installed in the PCIE slots. You could use PCIE extenders if you could find a way to mount the cards securely. I imagine you would need something custom to make that happen. Since you are planning on running 4 of these at 100% most of the time I would highly recommend water cooling them.


----------



## SavantStrike

A post or two above I showed my 4 card set up. I went with a x399 taichi. Unless you work is paying for an i9 I recommend you give threadripper a try. Coming from x79 Im glad i switched. It's got more pcie lanes than the Intel platform, built in nvme raid across 3 disks after the 25th, and will beat the i9 in heavily threaded work loads until you get into the 12-14 core intel parts. Even then it takes the 16 core intel chip to really best it at anything. It's a really impressive chip with ECC!

Bitspower makes blocks similar to mine as does EK. All three are twin slot cards, and both ek and bits power offer SLI bridges that make 4 way water easy. I would recommend the bits power blocks as they cover the memory VRMs.

I'll have to look into the phanteks. Most of the waterblocks perform within a few c of each other, so it's down to personal preference (led, rgb, acetal vs plexi, finish etc) and features (easy SLI bridges).


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> A post or two above I showed my 4 card set up. I went with a x399 taichi. Unless you work is paying for an i9 I recommend you give threadripper a try. Coming from x79 Im glad i switched. It's got more pcie lanes than the Intel platform, built in nvme raid across 3 disks after the 25th, and will beat the i9 in heavily threaded work loads until you get into the 12-14 core intel parts. Even then it takes the 16 core intel chip to really best it at anything. It's a really impressive chip with ECC!
> 
> Bitspower makes blocks similar to mine as does EK. All three are twin slot cards, and both ek and bits power offer SLI bridges that make 4 way water easy. I would recommend the bits power blocks as they cover the memory VRMs.
> 
> I'll have to look into the phanteks. Most of the waterblocks perform within a few c of each other, so it's down to personal preference (led, rgb, acetal vs plexi, finish etc) and features (easy SLI bridges).


Awesome setup!


----------



## MaKeN

Do 4 of them deally help? Or its for the looks?


----------



## AA junkie

I own a single rail(62,5A) RM750X psu.
Should i place both pci-e cables on the modular panel of my psu, or the one with the 2X8pin(6+2) i now have attached will do the job ?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Do 4 of them deally help? Or its for the looks?


It depends on what you're doing with them. With as much as they cost I wouldn't run 4 just for looks, but only a select few games support 4 cards (and none officially do since 3/4 way SLI is unofficial). I mine/fold on all 4 cards.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> I own a single rail(62,5A) RM750X psu.
> Should i place both pci-e cables on the modular panel of my psu, or the one with the 2X8pin(6+2) i now have attached will do the job ?


The stock BIOS (all revisions) is limited to 375 watts. You won't overload the single modular cable unless you flash an XOC BIOS or do hard volt mods.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> I own a single rail(62,5A) RM750X psu.
> Should i place both pci-e cables on the modular panel of my psu, or the one with the 2X8pin(6+2) i now have attached will do the job ?


I would recommend using two separate 8 pin cables that each connect to the power supply directly. With that said I was using a dual 6+2 cable with a 980ti for a long time and I never had any issues. Once I saw the link below I switched to individual 6+2 cables for each 8 pin connector. The link states for video cards over 225 watts to use individual 6+2 cables for each 8 pin connector. A 1080ti draws about the same amount of power as an overclocked 980ti. If you push the 1080ti it can and will draw more power than a 980ti I believe.
https://seasonic.com/faq/


----------



## TaraRead

Hey everyone I'm new to the forums but I've read about every single post here and on the other Waterforce thread. Sadly my EVGA GTX 1080 SC died day before yesterday. It was one of the cards that had the faulty VRAM issues with heating and oddly enough I just found out about it the day my card finally died. So I decided to upgrade and Craigslist the RMA replacement. I purchased the GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce 11GD off of Newegg and it'll be here tomorrow. Some things I've gathered from the thread is it really comes down to the lottery? Or has The quality control of the more recent cards improved? I'm running a 6800k on water with a X99 A-II Mobo, 32GB of RAM, and a ENERMAX 1000W PSU. A few questions I have are:

1. Since my GPU died and I was unable to delete the drivers will this affect the 1080ti? I don't have a monitor outlet port on the back of the mobo. My plan was to reboot into Safe Mode and use DDU then grab the latest drivers from Nvidia.

2. The Proprietary software is still bad? I use the EVGA software that came with my 1080 or would you guys recommend swapping to Afterburner? If so what version that unlocks the power to 150%? I plan on setting the LED lights then uninstalling the base software.

3. This is my first water cooled GPU. For mounting the fan/rad in the back upper part of the case the hoses should be on the bottom portion? As in the hoses should not be pointing down and mounted top down but flipped.

4. What fan profile do you guys use? And what can I test for stability? I haven't really overclocked a GPU before and my biggest concern after all the system crashes is to get it stable again. What do you guys recommend besides the power setting to 150%?

5. I tend to get an overclocking failed on my OC on my CPU which is odd. I think it had something to do with AI Suite but I can go into my BIOS and select optimum performance mode which gives it a slight 17% overclock. Highest I've ever gotten was around 4.5 ghz or around 28% OC.

6. Any tips? Or Any advice would really be appreciated. How do you all like your Waterforce? Money well spent? This is by far the most expensive GPU I've ever purchased and hope it does well in 4K gaming.


----------



## AA junkie

double post


----------



## AA junkie

Tofay I received the Aorus and the whole thing went bad.

- Runned DDU in safe mode(clean and shutdown)
- Removed my AMD vga and plugged my Nvidia
- Flashed VGA bios with F3P using the .exe method offered by Gigabyte with success.
- Rebooted
- Start installing Nvidia drivers
at the last phase of the installation the screen turns black and monitor looses signal
- Reboot doesn't help as monitor remains in no signal mode

The only option i have is :
- Do 3 consecutive resets during windows loading
- Enter in safe mode
- Run DDU(clean&restart)
- Re-enter windows

The above happens no matter if i :

- install different driver versions
- re-flashing the F3 or F3P bios again using the .exe method offered by Gigabyte with success

I had only one complete drivers installation, the resolution changed, but my screen keeped flashing as hell and loosed again signal after restart.

I tried also flashing different bioses using nvflash,
but i am getting a cannot open file error at the very last stage of the procedure.

I blame myself for flashing that bios straight out of the box, without having tried the bios that came with my card.

Now i runned out of time.
Installed my AMD back without apparently any problems.
Monday morning will be the next atempt.
Planning my strategy till then.
I will appreciate any ideas.


----------



## Monitorn00b

I posted some time back in the day but I've been really busy so sorry for that though. I have a problem with Aorus software and MSI Afterburner.

I want to use MSI Afterburner because I like it better to edit the fan curve but I loaded the OC Mode in Aorus software then opened MSI to get the oc mode settings into MSI and it seems to set those settings but in reality I get for example 110-140fps(with dips to 80/90 fps like w t f) in Rocket League with MSI and 200+fps with dips to 175/180 a few times in 3v3 in Aorus OC Mode( 1440p 144hz monitor).

So how can I get the oc mode of aorus in MSI afterburner?



Maybe in the benchmark doesn't seem much(although a 7fps difference in a benchmark is a lot), in Rocket League is a 100fps difference for example.
Aorus OC Mode works good but it's too hot the default fan curve and if I edit it in the options, I'm not sure if it keeps the OC settings and the fans keep changing to semipassive...

EDIT: this are the msi settings, although fan is not on auto(only in the screen by accident):


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Monitorn00b*
> 
> I posted some time back in the day but I've been really busy so sorry for that though. I have a problem with Aorus software and MSI Afterburner.
> 
> I want to use MSI Afterburner because I like it better to edit the fan curve but I loaded the OC Mode in Aorus software then opened MSI to get the oc mode settings into MSI and it seems to set those settings but in reality I get for example 110-140fps(with dips to 80/90 fps like w t f) in Rocket League with MSI and 200+fps with dips to 175/180 a few times in 3v3 in Aorus OC Mode( 1440p 144hz monitor).
> 
> So how can I get the oc mode of aorus in MSI afterburner?
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe in the benchmark doesn't seem much(although a 7fps difference in a benchmark is a lot), in Rocket League is a 100fps difference for example.
> Aorus OC Mode works good but it's too hot the default fan curve and if I edit it in the options, I'm not sure if it keeps the OC settings and the fans keep changing to semipassive...
> 
> EDIT: this are the msi settings, although fan is not on auto(only in the screen by accident):


Firstly, you should not have both the auros software and msi opened at the same time. I would use the auros software to set the led color and uninstall it followed by installing the msi afterburner. Use the msi to set the oc. The auros software is crap


----------



## XofaDK

Hi ! I can finally join the club, being a very proud owner of the Aorus Extreme 1080 Ti! Wehooo!









My OC settings are:


http://imgur.com/VFHY7


My question is: What kind of fan curve settings would you guys recommend? I'm actually quite happy about the stock settings. Is there any reason even to play around with the fan curve on this card? And more importantly.. what can I gain from it in the long run??

Thanks!


----------



## Monitorn00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> Firstly, you should not have both the auros software and msi opened at the same time. I would use the auros software to set the led color and uninstall it followed by installing the msi afterburner. Use the msi to set the oc. The auros software is crap


Yes, I want to use MSI software but don't know how to OC it as the OC mode in Aorus software







because the OC mode of aorus software is really stable, don't have problems playing long with it, only temp because fan curve is poor.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Monitorn00b*
> 
> Yes, I want to use MSI software but don't know how to OC it as the OC mode in Aorus software
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> because the OC mode of aorus software is really stable, don't have problems playing long with it, only temp because fan curve is poor.


You really should just use msi afterburner. There is a few detailed tutorial on how to use the v curve method to oc further back on this thread. Higher, more stable oc and better temp with a more effective custom fan curve.

My fan curve


My v curve



If you are able to reapply thermal paste with grizzly kryonaut. It can reduce temp by 6c!


----------



## Monitorn00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> You really should just use msi afterburner. There is a few detailed tutorial on how to use the v curve method to oc further back on this thread. Higher, more stable oc and better temp with a more effective custom fan curve.
> 
> My fan curve
> 
> 
> My v curve
> 
> 
> 
> If you are able to reapply thermal paste with grizzly kryonaut. It can reduce temp by 6c!


I don't want to open my card because I could mess it up so I plan to stay stock paste for now.

Can you link me to those tutorials?I need a explanation for dummies as I have no idea how to OC manually, thanks for your help mate


----------



## Chargeit

Yeah I wouldn't open up a gpu under warranty just to redo the paste. I'd instead let it burn up and if it gives you issues rma it. Seems silly to lose your warranty trying to keep a gpu under warranty running cooler. Least to me.

I opened my old 980 ti up when I put a g10 on it and ended up feeling really stressed about it crapping out on me. Was very happy when it came time to buy a 1080 ti that has warranty.


----------



## Supelp12

http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps
If you are not confident to repaste then don't do it but it actually quite easy. Loads of tutorials in the net. Use the spread method if you are using the grizzly kryonaut.
Able to run the card 6c cooler is not just about running it cooler but able to run it at the same temp with a much slower fan speed. It means a lot if you are after quietness


----------



## Monitorn00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps
> If you are not confident to repaste then don't do it but it actually quite easy. Loads of tutorials in the net. Use the spread method if you are using the grizzly kryonaut.
> Able to run the card 6c cooler is not just about running it cooler but able to run it at the same temp with a much slower fan speed. It means a lot if you are after quietness


Thanks, I'll take a better look in the morning. My objective is to get 2025 stable core(that's what i think it maxes at OC mode in aorus software), i think it can be done with default thermal paste and by air without going too crazy, just with a better fan curve than the one Aorus has.

Thanks again Supelp12


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps
> If you are not confident to repaste then don't do it but it actually quite easy. Loads of tutorials in the net. Use the spread method if you are using the grizzly kryonaut.
> Able to run the card 6c cooler is not just about running it cooler but able to run it at the same temp with a much slower fan speed. It means a lot if you are after quietness


Kryonaut works well with the spread method?

Do you need to heat it up first or does it just work?


----------



## Supelp12

Kryonaut works well with the spread method?

Do you need to heat it up first or does it just work?[/quote]
Spread method is recommended and that's what I used to good effect. I just make the entire surface is covered such that no area is 'see through'.
It work straight away. It seems to work very slightly better(-1c?) after a few days.


----------



## alton brown

Hi guys. I have the Waterblock edition. Do I post/ask questions here?


----------



## skline00

Thank you for your post, SavantStrike. 4 of these bad boys OUCH. I bought just 1 for $849 at Newegg and LOVE it in my 5960x rig. VERY fast and runs cool. How many and what type rads are you using?

I have 3 XSPC RX480 rev3 rads so PLENTY of cooling capacity.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skline00*
> 
> Thank you for your post, SavantStrike. 4 of these bad boys OUCH. I bought just 1 for $849 at Newegg and LOVE it in my 5960x rig. VERY fast and runs cool. How many and what type rads are you using?
> 
> I have 3 XSPC RX480 rev3 rads so PLENTY of cooling capacity.


A phobya extreme g changer 1080, an Alphacool ut45 360, and an XSPC EX240.

I hope to start heat soaking the machine tomorrow to see how bad the temps get. Flow should be excellent so I'll be at the limit of my radiators.


----------



## alton brown

hi all, I'm assuming I can post here. what are you guys using to overclock your cards? are you sticking with the Aorus OC software or are you using Afterburner? I'm not really getting any good overclocks with AB. Have any of you guys flashed the bios? I haven't flashed since the 780s. Can we still remove boost 3.0 with a custom bios? unlock voltage?


----------



## SavantStrike

The best you can do is cross flash another BIOS from a different 1080 TI. That will give you higher power limits, but the Gigabyte cards will give you 375W out of the box. If you are getting bad clocks on the stock BIOS you may just have a weak GPU.

Definitely use Afterburner, the Gigabyte software is buggy.


----------



## skline00

I use Afterburner to OC but gosh the card is so fast at it's stock setting.


----------



## Bojamijams

Hey guys,

I'm switching to nVidia (from a R9 Fury) and want a 1080Ti. In your opinion, should I get the Aorus 1080ti (non extreme) or the Asus Strix (non OC)?

The Aorus is $30 canadian cheaper


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The best you can do is cross flash another BIOS from a different 1080 TI. That will give you higher power limits, but the Gigabyte cards will give you 375W out of the box. If you are getting bad clocks on the stock BIOS you may just have a weak GPU.
> 
> Definitely use Afterburner, the Gigabyte software is buggy.


correct me if I'm wrong. The the Aorus triple fan PCB board is the same as the PCB board on the extreme Waterblock edition?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skline00*
> 
> I use Afterburner to OC but gosh the card is so fast at it's stock setting.


I'll stick AB.

Thanks guys!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> correct me if I'm wrong. The the Aorus triple fan PCB board is the same as the PCB board on the extreme Waterblock edition?
> I'll stick AB.
> 
> Thanks guys!


Identical. Even the vanilla 1080 and 1070 Aorus cards use the same PCB from what I understand (just with fewer RAM chips), same power delivery etc.


----------



## Kutalion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bojamijams*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm switching to nVidia (from a R9 Fury) and want a 1080Ti. In your opinion, should I get the Aorus 1080ti (non extreme) or the Asus Strix (non OC)?
> 
> The Aorus is $30 canadian cheaper


Strix is probably the best card alonh with MSI lightning. It has the best cooling and quality of VRM. Tho a bit lesser power limit.


----------



## Bojamijams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Strix is probably the best card alonh with MSI lightning. It has the best cooling and quality of VRM. Tho a bit lesser power limit.


Does that mean the Aorus (non extreme) has a higher power limit?

Would getting the STRIX and flashing the AORUS vBios be the best of both worlds? (or some other card with a higher power limit?)


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bojamijams*
> 
> Does that mean the Aorus (non extreme) has a higher power limit?
> 
> Would getting the STRIX and flashing the AORUS vBios be the best of both worlds? (or some other card with a higher power limit?)


The 375W power limit of the Aorus card is hard to hit. You have to be under water with a lot of voltage before it becomes an issue.

In general it's not a great idea to cross flash a BIOS unless absolutely necessary (like raising the power limit on a founders edition card). You can lose display outputs and even have reduced performance, or soft brick the card if you flash a BIOS from a card with incompatible power delivery. It only works as well as it does on the 1080/1080 TI because Micron is the only GDDR5x vendor for the 10 series cards.

If you're considering the Aorus BIOS then just get the Aorus, the Strix, just get the Strix, etc. The only knock I've ever seen against the Aorus is that not all of the cards seem as well binned as others, so occasionally someone will buy an Aorus Extreme that's slower than the non extreme.


----------



## AA junkie

Having a very frustrating issue of not getting a 4k/60hz 4:4:4(full rgb) output.
I only managed to get 4:2:0.
I have a Samsung UE65KU6400S 4k tv.
If I enable HDMI UHD color(for full rgb input signals), my screen is flickering/blinking and most of the times looses signal.
No problems if i set the refresh rate to 30hz.

Tried all combinations of ports/drivers/settings with no luck.

I have to try with another cable, but this cable worked like a charm with my rx470 and the same TV.

I will appreciate any help from any Aorus(and not only) owner who faced similar issues and maybe resolved them.


----------



## lavke

Hi,

I'm having hard time figuring out what is happening when overclocking my Aorus GTX 1080 Ti (non-Xtreme). I'm getting power limited even with PL 150%/375 W (F3P BIOS) and forcing only 0.950 V to my card. Also when polling with NVSMI I can never get above 300 W power draw. F3 BIOS, fresh drivers, maximum performance in NVCP/Windows made no difference.

Is this supposed to be normal? For what its worth I can run it 1974 MHz constant with 0.950 V, still seems very odd to me. Something physically limiting?


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lavke*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm having hard time figuring out what is happening when overclocking my Aorus GTX 1080 Ti (non-Xtreme). I'm getting power limited even with PL 150%/375 W (F3P BIOS) and forcing only 0.950 V to my card. Also when polling with NVSMI I can never get above 300 W power draw. F3 BIOS, fresh drivers, maximum performance in NVCP/Windows made no difference.
> 
> Is this supposed to be normal? For what its worth I can run it 1974 MHz constant with 0.950 V, still seems very odd to me. Something physically limiting?


What are you using to test the card? Mine can easily breach 150% power draw.


----------



## lavke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> What are you using to test the card? Mine can easily breach 150% power draw.


Superposition 1080p Extreme, 3DMark Fire Strike Extreme, Deus Ex: Mankind Divided 1440p on Ultra.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Identical. Even the vanilla 1080 and 1070 Aorus cards use the same PCB from what I understand (just with fewer RAM chips), same power delivery etc.


So in theroy I should be getting somewhat the same or close to overclocks that you guys are getting.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> So in theroy I should be getting somewhat the same or close to overclocks that you guys are getting.


Yes, but not every 1080 TI can get there. It looks like all of the cards have this problem, both AIB and Founders editions. Most can break 2ghz no problem, but some are stuck considerably slower, and some can break 2.1ghz.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Yes, but not every 1080 TI can get there. It looks like all of the cards have this problem, both AIB and Founders editions. Most can break 2ghz no problem, but some are stuck considerably slower, and some can break 2.1ghz.


Ok great. I haven't really started over clocking too much yet. Just finished building my system, but I've already seen my card (if I remember correctly) running around 2150 or so. What you just said makes me feel better.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> Ok great. I haven't really started over clocking too much yet. Just finished building my system, but I've already seen my card (if I remember correctly) running around 2150 or so. What you just said makes me feel better.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> Ok great. I haven't really started over clocking too much yet. Just finished building my system, but I've already seen my card (if I remember correctly) running around 2150 or so. What you just said makes me feel better.


Oh, that's a good card if it boosts there without a lot of coaxing. You'll be very happy with the performance you get.


----------



## Supelp12

Added some black heat sink and a 80mm noctua fan on backplate. Result? 1c to 2c at most. Pretty meh.....


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> 
> Added some black heat sink and a 80mm noctua fan on backplate. Result? 1c to 2c at most. Pretty meh.....


do you have a side vent to add a fan? A fan constantly blowing on the card should help. I believe Gamers Nexus on YouTube proved that the backplate had just about zero effect on cooling for extreme card.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> do you have a side vent to add a fan? A fan constantly blowing on the card should help. I believe Gamers Nexus on YouTube proved that the backplate had just about zero effect on cooling for extreme card.


Have tried both a f12 also and various fan orientation to about same result. But it had a interesting effect. Idle temp were lower and when loaded temp goes up much slower and gradual before hitting max temp


----------



## lowmotion

The Gigabyte Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition is no longer available?


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> Have tried both a f12 also and various fan orientation to about same result. But it had a interesting effect. Idle temp were lower and when loaded temp goes up much slower and gradual before hitting max temp


That makes sense. Only thing I wonder is if it's worth it.


----------



## Supelp12

[quote name="alton brown"
That makes sense. Only thing I wonder is if it's worth it.[/quote]
If anyone has not already done this and ask me, I would say don't waste time and money. But it's fun!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> [quote name="alton brown"
> That makes sense. Only thing I wonder is if it's worth it.


If anyone has not already done this and ask me, I would say don't waste time and money. But it's fun![/quote]

Unless they run distributed computing 24x7. Then it keeps you from burning your hands.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> 
> Added some black heat sink and a 80mm noctua fan on backplate. Result? 1c to 2c at most. Pretty meh.....


Loved your genius stab at further cooling the card. Credit for that ...


----------



## rikkiepc

Reporting for duty. Waterblock edition came in yesterday








Sure is one heavy beast. I'm glad I'm doing hardline so i can support the weight a little with one of the tubes. Other than that it looks kinda ugly, hope I like it more then it's all hooked up and shiny.

Oh and because it's so T H I C C I have to re-do half my loop as it blocks the input on the pump. Oh well....


----------



## XofaDK

I'm having some serious concerns here.. in idle im at 55c ?! At full load is stable around 70-75c max. I'm using air cooling + stock curve air cooling profile.

The idle temp isn't that quite high?!!?! :O I've seen *countless* of reviews stating idle temp is around 35-40c ??


----------



## AA junkie

I made my first tests with the Aorus(non extreme).

F3P BIOS

I only set Power Limit(150%) to Max in Afterburner and runned a superposition benchmark(4k) with 100% fans.

Score : *9123* (with a stock i7700k)
*Max boost :* *1974Mhz*.
Avg : *1857Mhz*
Droped down to *1936mhz* during benchmark and finally seated at *1923Mhz* when the temperature reached 74C.
Max temp was *79C*(avg 68C)
Max Voltage was *1.0620V*(avg 0,95V)
Max TDP was *138,1%*(avg 89,6%)

I then reverted afterburner to stock and tried various games for about 3 hours, with my card always around 80C and the clocks at 1936 - 1923.

I definitely have to do something with that temps.
Repasting is not an option.
Maybe adding a second intake fan to my Fractal design define R5, but I doubt if it helps.

What are your thoughts about my results ?
Can you help a noob draw conclusions and take advantage of them ?
I don't know if i can o/c the card with that temps.
I only want to game with the maximum performance and less noice.
100% fan was much but not extreme for my tastes.
75% is perfectly tollerable.


----------



## Monitorn00b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1627037/best-method-to-overclock-a-1080-ti-under-water-no-shunt-mod-good-under-air-too-lower-temps
> If you are not confident to repaste then don't do it but it actually quite easy. Loads of tutorials in the net. Use the spread method if you are using the grizzly kryonaut.
> Able to run the card 6c cooler is not just about running it cooler but able to run it at the same temp with a much slower fan speed. It means a lot if you are after quietness


Quote again to say I got a pretty decent OC with MSI afterburner, similar to the one in Aorus software but with a bit less voltage and better fan curve, it seems table for now and gives same result(a bit more) than the OC mode of Aorus software in 3dMark tests.

Thanks mate!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> I made my first tests with the Aorus(non extreme).
> 
> F3P BIOS
> 
> I only set Power Limit(150%) to Max in Afterburner and runned a superposition benchmark(4k) with 100% fans.
> 
> Score : *9123* (with a stock i7700k)
> *Max boost :* *1974Mhz*.
> Avg : *1857Mhz*
> Droped down to *1936mhz* during benchmark and finally seated at *1923Mhz* when the temperature reached 74C.
> Max temp was *79C*(avg 68C)
> Max Voltage was *1.0620V*(avg 0,95V)
> Max TDP was *138,1%*(avg 89,6%)
> 
> I then reverted afterburner to stock and tried various games for about 3 hours, with my card always around 80C and the clocks at 1936 - 1923.
> 
> I definitely have to do something with that temps.
> Repasting is not an option.
> Maybe adding a second intake fan to my Fractal design define R5, but I doubt if it helps.
> 
> What are your thoughts about my results ?
> Can you help a noob draw conclusions and take advantage of them ?
> I don't know if i can o/c the card with that temps.
> I only want to game with the maximum performance and less noice.
> 100% fan was much but not extreme for my tastes.
> 75% is perfectly tollerable.


80C at what fan speed? The card should only get there with a stock fan curve as it is tuned on the quiet side. It shouldn't be getting there at stock TDP and 75 percent fan speed unless your ambient temperature is high.

Short of a re-paste there isn't much you can do to fix this aside from running the fan at max or RMAing the card.


----------



## AA junkie

The card gets there no matter of the fan curve.
Even at stock TDP with 75% fan speed the card reaches 80C - 83C after 3 minutes of 4k gaming, and stays there no matter how long i will play.
The results are the same even with the stock fan curve.
Room temp is 20-22C.

I am not confident of repasting, and i don't want to risk loosing the warranty in a brand new card.
RMA is also difficult, given the fact that the card is rock solid and gigabyte did not claimed that my temps will not reach 80C.

Do you believe that adding another 14 intake fan in the front panel of my case will not give me these 5 degrees that i could gain from repasting ?
Undervolting could be an option ?


----------



## ROKUGAN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Having a very frustrating issue of not getting a 4k/60hz 4:4:4(full rgb) output.
> I only managed to get 4:2:0.
> I have a Samsung UE65KU6400S 4k tv.
> If I enable HDMI UHD color(for full rgb input signals), my screen is flickering/blinking and most of the times looses signal.
> No problems if i set the refresh rate to 30hz.
> 
> Tried all combinations of ports/drivers/settings with no luck.
> 
> I have to try with another cable, but this cable worked like a charm with my rx470 and the same TV.
> 
> I will appreciate any help from any Aorus(and not only) owner who faced similar issues and maybe resolved them.


Hi, check this out in case it helps, as I had problems with blackouts and image stability and found out that the HDMI cable was not truly 18 Gbps capable:


__
https://www.reddit.com/r/6a3lrl/aorus_1080_ti_xtreme_trouble_with_hdmi_4k60hz/


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> The card gets there no matter of the fan curve.
> Even at stock TDP with 75% fan speed the card reaches 80C - 83C after 3 minutes of 4k gaming, and stays there no matter how long i will play.
> The results are the same even with the stock fan curve.
> Room temp is 20-22C.
> 
> I am not confident of repasting, and i don't want to risk loosing the warranty in a brand new card.
> RMA is also difficult, given the fact that the card is rock solid and gigabyte did not claimed that my temps will not reach 80C.
> 
> Do you believe that adding another 14 intake fan in the front panel of my case will not give me these 5 degrees that i could gain from repasting ?
> Undervolting could be an option ?


Gigabyte doesn't put any "void if removed" stickers anywhere on their cards, so as long as you don't scratch the crap out of it re-pasting, they would never know if you touched it provided you used a normal paste (so no liquid metal or anything of that nature). Just don't tell them you touched it if you ever have a warranty claim (which you are not likely to have any way).

The easiest way to test if an extra fan would help is to just test with the side panel off for a little while.


----------



## beekermartin

I figured I would ask one more time before ordering the EK back plate.

Has anyone found a way to modify the stock back plate for it to work with an EK water block? Four of the threaded retainers on the back plate would have to be removed for it to sit flush against the card. I tried to separate them but that doesn't appear to be possible. The only way I can see that it would work would be if I permanently modified the back plate. I don't want to do that in case I want to reinstall the air cooler in the future.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Well here's the thing, i have a Corsair 540 and its well vented with 9 fans. So don't think that's it. What case do you have?


Non-Xtreme edition, now idling at 30C. Fans spinning at 10%. Using MSI Afterburner 4.4.0 Beta 8 for controlling the beast.


----------



## AA junkie

Trying to know my card(non extreme) and understand the way it behaves, I made some tests.
I runned the Superposition benchmark(4k optimized) in different scenarios.

The results are in columns.

The first column is the card at default state.

The second column with the power slider set to max(150%).

The third column with the power slider set to max(150%)+core voltage slider set to max.

The fourth column with the 1,025 voltage point of the voltage curve dragged to 2000Mhz+power slider set to max(150%).

The fifth column with the 1,025 voltage point of the voltage curve dragged to 2000Mhz+power slider set to max(150%)+voltage curve optimized(13-26Mhz steps).

SCORE|||| 8955 |||| 9422 |||| 9493 |||| 9483 |||| 9599 ||||

CORE(Mhz)
MAX |||| 1860 |||| 1961 |||| 1987 |||| 1999 |||| 2012 ||||
AVG |||| 1746 |||| 1883 |||| 1898 |||| 1772 |||| 1852 ||||

TEMP(C)
MAX |||| 77,0 |||| 87,0 |||| 89,0 |||| 84,0 |||| 84,0 ||||
AVG |||| 69,3 |||| 77,8 |||| 79,6 |||| 72,0 |||| 71,1 ||||

FAN(%)
MAX |||| 65,0 |||| 82,0 |||| 86,0 |||| 77,0 |||| 77,0 ||||
AVG |||| 53,0 |||| 68,0 |||| 71,0 |||| 55,0 |||| 54,0 ||||

VRAM(mb)
MAX |||| 4371 |||| 4301 |||| 4294 |||| 3971 |||| 4288 ||||

GPU LOAD(%)
AVG |||| 69,0 |||| 78,0 |||| 77,0 |||| 77,0 |||| 80,0 ||||

POWER TARGET(%)
MAX |||| 104,0 |||| 143,4 |||| 150,7 |||| 137,9 |||| 140,5 ||||
AVG |||| 76,6 |||| 106,4 |||| 114,3 |||| 95,8 |||| 101,9 ||||

VOLTAGE(mV)
AVG |||| 0,875 |||| 0,963 |||| 0,980 |||| 0,920 |||| 0,936 ||||
MIN |||| 0,793 |||| 0,793 |||| 0,793 |||| 0,650 |||| 0,650 ||||
MAX |||| 0,960 |||| 1,050 |||| 1,093 |||| 1,025 |||| 1,025 ||||

FPS
MIN |||| 52,84 |||| 55,47 |||| 56,07 |||| 55,93 |||| 56,48 ||||
AVG |||| 66,98 |||| 70,48 |||| 71,01 |||| 70,93 |||| 71,80 ||||
MAX |||| 87,69 |||| 93,12 |||| 93,61 |||| 93,62 |||| 95,12 ||||


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> The card gets there no matter of the fan curve.
> Even at stock TDP with 75% fan speed the card reaches 80C - 83C after 3 minutes of 4k gaming, and stays there no matter how long i will play.
> The results are the same even with the stock fan curve.
> Room temp is 20-22C.
> 
> I am not confident of repasting, and i don't want to risk loosing the warranty in a brand new card.
> RMA is also difficult, given the fact that the card is rock solid and gigabyte did not claimed that my temps will not reach 80C.
> 
> Do you believe that adding another 14 intake fan in the front panel of my case will not give me these 5 degrees that i could gain from repasting ?
> Undervolting could be an option ?


I have 2 14cm Scythe Glidestream fans in front running at 50% all the time, rising speed higher when CPU goes beyond 60C. 2x 12cm fans on top and one 12cm rear (behind CPU). The card idles @30-36 degrees depending on the day and never heats beyond 60C when gaming. I play at 2076 MHz / 11954 MHz. For SkyrimSE with Reshade and ENB I have a 2050 MHz profile. Full stable. 6288 points in Superposition Extreme 1080p setting. Playing all games @1440p. Just for reference.


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> I have 2 14cm Scythe Glidestream fans in front running at 50% all the time, rising speed higher when CPU goes beyond 60C. 2x 12cm fans on top and one 12cm rear (behind CPU). The card idles @30-36 degrees depending on the day and never heats beyond 60C when gaming. I play at 2076 MHz / 11954 MHz. For SkyrimSE with Reshade and ENB I have a 2050 MHz profile. Full stable. 6288 points in Superposition Extreme 1080p setting. Playing all games @1440p. Just for reference.


Thank you.

Nice temps and clocks!

The questions are :

- did you repaste the card ?
- even if everyone has different tolleration limits, how loud is the whole system with 5 case fans ?
- my set-up has 1x14 in front+1X14 rear(running both at 100% since i bought aorus). Did you tried running your system with 2 fans(1 front+1 rear) so we can have a before - after comparison ?


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Nice temps and clocks!
> 
> The questions are :
> 
> - did you repaste the card ?
> - even if everyone has different tolleration limits, how loud is the whole system with 5 case fans ?
> - my set-up has 1x14 in front+1X14 rear(running both at 100% since i bought aorus). Did you tried running your system with 2 fans(1 front+1 rear) so we can have a before - after comparison ?


First of all let me show you my case:


http://imgur.com/uODfG


It's a case I bought for 15 EUR. One pic shows the front with the front mask that I have on all the time. The whole system is quiet. I don't have a meter, but I am not disturbed or tired of the noise, it's just fine for my taste. The idea was to create a diagonal "chimney" from the front to the rear top. I also use MSI Afterburner and have the fan curve set like this:



So no matter what, the Aorus fans go 100% when the card reaches 55C.

Also see that I have blocked the airflow on the side panel of that case. Having two 14cm Scythe Glidestream blowers on the front really gives some massive air volume taken in to the system. This card needs a lot of moving air inside a case to keep cool. On idle my system is barely audible. The scythes seem to be really good fans. Also note that I do not have a front cover with holes just on the sides. The air goes through the whole area, restricted just by the front grid and filter. I know it all looks horrid but the system delivers outstanding results. I am doing Superposition starting @2088 MHz and settling at 2075 MHz during the test. I always stress it out to people. Give this monster some serious air VOLUME. If you employ 2x 14cm fans in front, you don't need to run them @100%, just 50% is enough, rised only when the CPU gets hot... The result is a reasonably quiet system and adequate air VOLUME. And when the GPU and CPU get hotter on say Deus Ex Mankind Divided maxed out @1440p + gameplay recording, the fans spin faster and it gets a bit louder, but then it doesnt bother me too much because I am in the game and don't care. For a complete air-driven system (no water blocks or pumps), I think my results are at least decent. If the card is idling at 55C in your case, to that means not enough fresh air is delivered and the air gets stuck. More fans, cable management and unrestricted air intake on the front of the case will help in my opinion. With 20-22C ambient temp the card should idle at 30-35C. Mine is now at 32C. Windows are closed, I have around 22C in my room. Hope this helps.

EDIT:
- I did not repaste the card
- You'll have a much quieter system with more fans running slower. They will still have headroom to get louder if/when the need arises.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> First of all let me show you my case:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/uODfG
> 
> 
> It's a case I bought for 15 EUR. One pic shows the front with the front mask that I have on all the time. The whole system is quiet. I don't have a meter, but I am not disturbed or tired of the noise, it's just fine for my taste. The idea was to create a diagonal "chimney" from the front to the rear top. I also use MSI Afterburner and have the fan curve set like this:
> 
> 
> 
> So no matter what, the Aorus fans go 100% when the card reaches 55C.
> 
> Also see that I have blocked the airflow on the side panel of that case. Having two 14cm Scythe Glidestream blowers on the front really gives some massive air volume taken in to the system. This card needs a lot of moving air inside a case to keep cool. On idle my system is barely audible. The scythes seem to be really good fans. Also note that I do not have a front cover with holes just on the sides. The air goes through the whole area, restricted just by the front grid and filter. I know it all looks horrid but the system delivers outstanding results. I am doing Superposition starting @2088 MHz and settling at 2075 MHz during the test. I always stress it out to people. Give this monster some serious air VOLUME. If you employ 2x 14cm fans in front, you don't need to run them @100%, just 50% is enough, rised only when the CPU gets hot... The result is a reasonably quiet system and adequate air VOLUME. And when the GPU and CPU get hotter on say Deus Ex Mankind Divided maxed out @1440p + gameplay recording, the fans spin faster and it gets a bit louder, but then it doesnt bother me too much because I am in the game and don't care. For a complete air-driven system (no water blocks or pumps), I think my results are at least decent. If the card is idling at 55C in your case, to that means not enough fresh air is delivered and the air gets stuck. More fans, cable management and unrestricted air intake on the front of the case will help in my opinion. With 20-22C ambient temp the card should idle at 30-35C. Mine is now at 32C. Windows are closed, I have around 22C in my room. Hope this helps.
> 
> EDIT:
> - I did not repaste the card
> - You'll have a much quieter system with more fans running slower. They will still have headroom to get louder if/when the need arises.


that's why quiet is a relative term. To me, 100% fan on the aorus is way too loud. I get annoyed at 70%. I also have a fairly quiet home with no hums or buzzes in the background.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Trying to know my card(non extreme) and understand the way it behaves, I made some tests.
> I runned the Superposition benchmark(4k optimized) in different scenarios.
> 
> The results are in columns.
> 
> The first column is the card at default state.
> 
> The second column with the power slider set to max(150%).
> 
> The third column with the power slider set to max(150%)+core voltage slider set to max.
> 
> The fourth column with the 1,025 voltage point of the voltage curve dragged to 2000Mhz+power slider set to max(150%).
> 
> The fifth column with the 1,025 voltage point of the voltage curve dragged to 2000Mhz+power slider set to max(150%)+voltage curve optimized(13-26Mhz steps).
> 
> SCORE|||| 8955 |||| 9422 |||| 9493 |||| 9483 |||| 9599 ||||
> 
> CORE(Mhz)
> MAX |||| 1860 |||| 1961 |||| 1987 |||| 1999 |||| 2012 ||||
> AVG |||| 1746 |||| 1883 |||| 1898 |||| 1772 |||| 1852 ||||
> 
> TEMP(C)
> MAX |||| 77,0 |||| 87,0 |||| 89,0 |||| 84,0 |||| 84,0 ||||
> AVG |||| 69,3 |||| 77,8 |||| 79,6 |||| 72,0 |||| 71,1 ||||
> 
> FAN(%)
> MAX |||| 65,0 |||| 82,0 |||| 86,0 |||| 77,0 |||| 77,0 ||||
> AVG |||| 53,0 |||| 68,0 |||| 71,0 |||| 55,0 |||| 54,0 ||||
> 
> VRAM(mb)
> MAX |||| 4371 |||| 4301 |||| 4294 |||| 3971 |||| 4288 ||||
> 
> GPU LOAD(%)
> AVG |||| 69,0 |||| 78,0 |||| 77,0 |||| 77,0 |||| 80,0 ||||
> 
> POWER TARGET(%)
> MAX |||| 104,0 |||| 143,4 |||| 150,7 |||| 137,9 |||| 140,5 ||||
> AVG |||| 76,6 |||| 106,4 |||| 114,3 |||| 95,8 |||| 101,9 ||||
> 
> VOLTAGE(mV)
> AVG |||| 0,875 |||| 0,963 |||| 0,980 |||| 0,920 |||| 0,936 ||||
> MIN |||| 0,793 |||| 0,793 |||| 0,793 |||| 0,650 |||| 0,650 ||||
> MAX |||| 0,960 |||| 1,050 |||| 1,093 |||| 1,025 |||| 1,025 ||||
> 
> FPS
> MIN |||| 52,84 |||| 55,47 |||| 56,07 |||| 55,93 |||| 56,48 ||||
> AVG |||| 66,98 |||| 70,48 |||| 71,01 |||| 70,93 |||| 71,80 ||||
> MAX |||| 87,69 |||| 93,12 |||| 93,61 |||| 93,62 |||| 95,12 ||||


Power and temp limited in the third column, fifth column doing better than fourth because when clocks do drop, from peak, they don't drop as far.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> Nice temps and clocks!
> 
> The questions are :
> 
> - did you repaste the card ?
> - even if everyone has different tolleration limits, how loud is the whole system with 5 case fans ?
> - my set-up has 1x14 in front+1X14 rear(running both at 100% since i bought aorus). Did you tried running your system with 2 fans(1 front+1 rear) so we can have a before - after comparison ?


I have the same model card as you and with my 1.031v, 2025MHz core/+433 memory, 150% power limit, OC 100% fan speed will keep my card at 67C or below in a 25C+ room in Superposition 4/8K.

No disassembly or TIM replacement of any kind; I just tightened the screws.

Case is a Fractal R4 with two exhaust (rear most top and back) and one intake (lower front, no drive cages or filters installed) fan run at about 1000-1200rpm, with the I/O slot covers under the card removed.

While gaming with uncapped frame rates, fan speed usually stays between 60 and 80% on my fan slope, which is just one point at 55C where the fan turns on, and another at 68C where it reaches 100%, with a 2 second update interval and a 2C hysteresis.


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> Power and temp limited in the third column


Nothing to do by me i guess ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> fifth column doing better than fourth because when clocks do drop, from peak, they don't drop as far.


I think that's because of the optimized voltage curve i made(?). I realized the importance of a good voltage curve and hopefully there is room for some more fine tuning
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> I have the same model card as you and with my 1.031v, 2025MHz core/+433 memory, 150% power limit, OC 100% fan speed will keep my card at 67C or below in a 25C+ room in Superposition 4/8K.
> No disassembly or TIM replacement of any kind; I just tightened the screws.
> Case is a Fractal R4 with two exhaust (rear most top and back) and one intake (lower front, no drive cages or filters installed) fan run at about 1000-1200rpm, with the I/O slot covers under the card removed.
> While gaming with uncapped frame rates, fan speed usually stays between 60 and 80% on my fan slope, which is just one point at 55C where the fan turns on, and another at 68C where it reaches 100%, with a 2 second update interval and a 2C hysteresis.


I will try your settings but with 75% fan speed cause 100% is too loud for me.
Thank you for the reminder also, cause i forgot to tight the screws no matter i have read the whole thread before the purchase of the card.
I have the Fractal Design R5 with drive cage(necessary) low and filter(dusty room).
I now have one front intake(up) and one rear(up), and my plan is to add another one in the front.
Your setup with the two rear exhaust gave me the idea to try something similar and see what is better.


----------



## b4thman

I have had recently 3 crashes (computer shut down suddenly when playing The Witcher 3). I usually use MSI afterburner with the on screen information about temperatures (GPU and CPU), and my new AOURUS 1080TI can reach up to 82/83º.

I do not know if this is normal. My pc casi is big enough. My CPU (xeon x5670) is overclocked to 4GHz and reach 79º (I also dot know if that is normal).

One thing to point is that my PC case is a carbide in wich you have to place the motherboard the oher way around, so the graphic card fans are located pointing up, not down, and I don't know if that can be something important.


----------



## rikkiepc

Got my Extreme Waterblock edition up and running yasterday. First impressions;

Nice temps: idle 24 degrees - gaming 45 degrees (one hour Tomb Raider maxed [email protected])
Great performance compared to my old 980Ti.
Still kinda ugly. Just keep the LED off so it isn't so obvious. Liked the look of simple PCB with a nice EK waterblock of my 980Ti a *lot* better. It's just to thick and the LED doesn't match the lighting in my case.


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> I have had recently 3 crashes (computer shut down suddenly when playing The Witcher 3). I usually use MSI afterburner with the on screen information about temperatures (GPU and CPU), and my new AOURUS 1080TI can reach up to 82/83º.
> 
> I do not know if this is normal. My pc casi is big enough. My CPU (xeon x5670) is overclocked to 4GHz and reach 79º (I also dot know if that is normal).
> 
> One thing to point is that my PC case is a carbide in wich you have to place the motherboard the oher way around, so the graphic card fans are located pointing up, not down, and I don't know if that can be something important.


Your temps are high but not the cause of the shutdowns in my opinion.
My new Aorus 1080 ti reaches also these temps and i am not happy but i don't have issues.

Do you o/ced the card ?
What was your previous card ? Did you made a clean windows installation with the new card ? If not did you made a good cleanup of previous drivers with DDU for example ?
Check your error messages in windows event viewer.
*What brand, wattage and how old is your psu ?*
Try reverting all your system(cpu, gpu, ram) to stock and see if problem persists.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Your temps are high but not the cause of the shutdowns in my opinion.
> My new Aorus 1080 ti reaches also these temps and i am not happy but i don't have issues.
> 
> Do you o/ced the card ?
> What was your previous card ? Did you made a clean windows installation with the new card ? If not did you made a good cleanup of previous drivers with DDU for example ?
> Check your error messages in windows event viewer.
> *What brand, wattage and how old is your psu ?*
> Try reverting all your system(cpu, gpu, ram) to stock and see if problem persists.


Hard crashes might be due to the heat build up combined with an unstable cpu overclock. The extra heat from the gpu may bring the CPU temps high enough to crash your overclock. This happened to me. My cousin overclock was fine when I had a 1070 but then when I got the 1080ti my PC kept crashing in battlefield. I lowered my cpu to 4.8 instead of 5.0 and no more crashing. Then I got a beefier cpu cooler and I was able to maintain 5.0 again.


----------



## b4thman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Your temps are high but not the cause of the shutdowns in my opinion.
> My new Aorus 1080 ti reaches also these temps and i am not happy but i don't have issues.
> 
> Do you o/ced the card ?
> What was your previous card ? Did you made a clean windows installation with the new card ? If not did you made a good cleanup of previous drivers with DDU for example ?
> Check your error messages in windows event viewer.
> *What brand, wattage and how old is your psu ?*
> Try reverting all your system(cpu, gpu, ram) to stock and see if problem persists.


My previous car was GTX 1060 TI
I have not made a new Windows installation (Windows 7 64bits), just use DDU to uninstall everything related to Nvidia when in Windows safe mode before new AORUS 1080 TI installation.
My PSU is UranoVX 750 (750w) and it is about 3 years old.

So far the shutdowns have been caused only playing The Witcher 3, and I have played with several games in these two days. Maybe The Witcher is an example of game that "kill" hardware pushing gpu/cpu to the limits.

You say you also have a "hot" Aorus 1080 TI. I have just bought it, and I also have problems with recognizing my monitor using the DisplayPort (I can finally use the DisplayPort connection, but only using the HDMI conection at the same time, and that is a bit strange). So I am really in the doubt about if I should send this card back to Amazon and ask for a new model (it only has a few days). I don't really know if my tems are normal or worse than normal.


----------



## jonathan1107

Has anyone here have experience with watercooling this card? Either with the waterforce model or a custom waterblock?
What are your thoughts on the EK waterblock (acetal + nickel) for the aorus xtreme 1080 ti ?

If you were in my shoes and you wanted to go from an AIR cooled Aorus Xtreme 1080 ti to a water cooled card, what would you do?

A) Get a WaterBlock for the aorus xtreme that I already own?
B) Sell the one I have and buy a pre-installed waterblock card such as the Zotac ArcticStorm or the Asus Poseidon or the waterforce?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Has anyone here have experience with watercooling this card? Either with the waterforce model or a custom waterblock?
> What are your thoughts on the EK waterblock (acetal + nickel) for the aorus xtreme 1080 ti ?
> 
> If you were in my shoes and you wanted to go from an AIR cooled Aorus Xtreme 1080 ti to a water cooled card, what would you do?
> 
> A) Get a WaterBlock for the aorus xtreme that I already own?
> B) Sell the one I have and buy a pre-installed waterblock card such as the Zotac ArcticStorm or the Asus Poseidon or the waterforce?


I would buy a block for the card you already own. Nobody pays full sticker for a used card, so you'd take a hit selling the one you have and buying a new one. You always have the option of going back to air cooled if you keep your current card and just add a block, so it's a more versatile solution.

If I were buying a new card, I'd buy the Gigabyte WB model (which is exactly what I did). The Poseidon is rather large, and does not cool the VRM's as well as the Gigabyte card. It also dumps heat in the case if you let the fans spin. The Zotac card has questionable VRM's (they are not very efficient so they waste a good deal of energy, which is part of why the arcticstorm has such a high TDP limit).

For the card you have (the Gigabyte), I would not recommend the EK block. They neglected to cool the memory VRM's in their design, and it is incompatible with the stock backplate. I would recommend you buy a bitspower block, or even buy a Bykski. Both are fully compatible with the stock back plate, and I believe the Bykski is actually the block Gigabyte chose to go with.


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> My previous car was GTX 1060 TI
> I have not made a new Windows installation (Windows 7 64bits), just use DDU to uninstall everything related to Nvidia when in Windows safe mode before new AORUS 1080 TI installation.
> My PSU is UranoVX 750 (750w) and it is about 3 years old.
> 
> So far the shutdowns have been caused only playing The Witcher 3, and I have played with several games in these two days. Maybe The Witcher is an example of game that "kill" hardware pushing gpu/cpu to the limits.
> 
> You say you also have a "hot" Aorus 1080 TI. I have just bought it, and I also have problems with recognizing my monitor using the DisplayPort (I can finally use the DisplayPort connection, but only using the HDMI conection at the same time, and that is a bit strange). So I am really in the doubt about if I should send this card back to Amazon and ask for a new model (it only has a few days). I don't really know if my tems are normal or worse than normal.


Your PSU specs seems ok.

If we talk about a single game issue, I think you can ignore it.

As for the ports problems a solution could be flashing the card with the later f3p(h) bios. h is the version that enables two hdmi(and dp) support.
But I don't see the reason of doing such a thing.
Your display port should work right out of the box, without using the hdmi port at the same time.
If not, you can rma the card.

*i changed from AMD to Nvidia, and i also had some difficulties in recognizing my second monitor(using two hdmi).
As i tried various port/cables combinations and reboots, i can't say what finally helped me.
I believe though that the odd behaviour stopped when i removed the card, cleared cmos, reseated the card.


----------



## b4thman

According to the utility "Aorus Graphic Engine", my BIOS VER is F20 (DRIVER VER 22.21.13.8541). If I press the "check for update" button, I select Europe and I get no update aviable.

So..., is my Aorus 1080 TI made long time ago? Should I update the bios or just return it back to Amazon and ask for a new one?


----------



## Jason-uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowmotion*
> 
> The Gigabyte Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition is no longer available?


There in stock in the UK no problem , eg BT shop = £745.03
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> According to the utility "Aorus Graphic Engine", my BIOS VER is F20 (DRIVER VER 22.21.13.8541). If I press the "check for update" button, I select Europe and I get no update aviable.
> 
> So..., is my Aorus 1080 TI made long time ago? Should I update the bios or just return it back to Amazon and ask for a new one?


Mine says the same , if you check with gpuz the bios version is the same number as the lastest on the giga webby eg F3p NVIDIA Source BIOS Version: 86.02.39.00.9E


----------



## b4thman

GPUZ say BIOS Version: 86.02.39.00.9D (the las letter is D, not E like yours). Release date Mar 2, 2017


----------



## Jason-uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> GPUZ say BIOS Version: 86.02.39.00.9D (the las letter is D, not E like yours). Release date Mar 2, 2017


Looking at the gigabyte webby your bios isn't even on there , as for returning your card , i would download and update to the newest bios from the gigabyte site .

Instructions for bios updating from gigabyte not using the auros overclocking software

__
https://www.reddit.com/r/63vt85/aorus_and_aorus_xtreme_gtx_1080_ti_f4_beta_bios/

Theres also other information if you read down the thread

hope this helps and let us know how you get on .

good luck and dont stress out you have a 4yr warranty after all, if its goes tits up Amazon will replace your card im sure


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> GPUZ say BIOS Version: 86.02.39.00.9D (the las letter is D, not E like yours). Release date Mar 2, 2017


I think that Mar 2 2017 is the release date of the gpu, not of the bios.

Here also GPUZ says BIOS Version: 86.02.39.00.9D.
The same says Info tab of MSI Afterburner and system information from nvidia control panel.
86.02.39.00.9D is the f3p version according the gigabyte site.

I flashed my aorus(not extreme) straight out of the box with f3p.


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Has anyone here have experience with watercooling this card? Either with the waterforce model or a custom waterblock?


I have the WB edition. Performs great, will not get above 45 degrees.


----------



## DeadpoolUK

Been a while since I've posted in this thread, I water cooled the 1080ti and did a custom loop (don't use mayhems pastel, its shockingly bad and ruined my cpu block and reservoir within 4 days of going in the loop, was perfect on distilled water before and been perfect on distilled water since so was definitely the pastel, they refuse to accept responsibility and wont help either with awful customer service.) the aorus extreme loves to be water cooled, i was struggling with fairly high temps on the stock cooler and now they are crazy low with a 360 rad and d5 pump with the EKWB.

However I'm always looking for ways to mess around and want to change to hard line tubing soon anyway so when i dismantle for that i was wondering if anyone has tried using Liquid metal (thermal grizzly conductonaut is what i want to try) on their card and using a waterblock with it too? I've seen lots of people getting around 10 degree drops in temps using the liquid metal on the air coolers for 1080ti's but nothing about using liquid metal with a water block? TIA


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadpoolUK*
> 
> Been a while since I've posted in this thread, I water cooled the 1080ti and did a custom loop (don't use mayhems pastel, its shockingly bad and ruined my cpu block and reservoir within 4 days of going in the loop, was perfect on distilled water before and been perfect on distilled water since so was definitely the pastel, they refuse to accept responsibility and wont help either with awful customer service.) the aorus extreme loves to be water cooled, i was struggling with fairly high temps on the stock cooler and now they are crazy low with a 360 rad and d5 pump with the EKWB.
> 
> However I'm always looking for ways to mess around and want to change to hard line tubing soon anyway so when i dismantle for that i was wondering if anyone has tried using Liquid metal (thermal grizzly conductonaut is what i want to try) on their card and using a waterblock with it too? I've seen lots of people getting around 10 degree drops in temps using the liquid metal on the air coolers for 1080ti's but nothing about using liquid metal with a water block? TIA


Don't expect a 10C drop unless you've got a lot of radiator for the loop. The better the card is being cooled the lower the drop is going to be. Air is a lousy medium, so increasing conductivity to the heatsink under air helps a lot more than it does on water. That said, I would expect a drop of some magnitude. Probably between 2-5C.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I would buy a block for the card you already own. Nobody pays full sticker for a used card, so you'd take a hit selling the one you have and buying a new one. You always have the option of going back to air cooled if you keep your current card and just add a block, so it's a more versatile solution.
> 
> If I were buying a new card, I'd buy the Gigabyte WB model (which is exactly what I did). The Poseidon is rather large, and does not cool the VRM's as well as the Gigabyte card. It also dumps heat in the case if you let the fans spin. The Zotac card has questionable VRM's (they are not very efficient so they waste a good deal of energy, which is part of why the arcticstorm has such a high TDP limit).
> 
> For the card you have (the Gigabyte), I would not recommend the EK block. They neglected to cool the memory VRM's in their design, and it is incompatible with the stock backplate. I would recommend you buy a bitspower block, or even buy a Bykski. Both are fully compatible with the stock back plate, and I believe the Bykski is actually the block Gigabyte chose to go with.


I have searched for Bitspower and Bykski blocks. I can't find much information about either one. Could you possibly add some links with reviews or photos of them installed on the Aorus 1080ti. I was about to order the EK back plate since I already installed the EK block. I am now considering selling the EK block and getting something different. I really want to use the stock back plate but I don't want to modify it for it to work with the EK block.


----------



## Baden

Hi Guys,

I have a quick question. I currently have the Aorus Xtreme and maybe looking to put it underwater. I don't really want to do the custom loop idea, i was wondering if you can buy the Waterforce cooler separately like you can with the EVGA Hybrids?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I have a quick question. I currently have the Aorus Xtreme and maybe looking to put it underwater. I don't really want to do the custom loop idea, i was wondering if you can buy the Waterforce cooler separately like you can with the EVGA Hybrids?


You can not. The nzxt kraken with ram sinks is going to be your only option, or something home brewed.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rikkiepc*
> 
> Reporting for duty. Waterblock edition came in yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sure is one heavy beast. I'm glad I'm doing hardline so i can support the weight a little with one of the tubes. Other than that it looks kinda ugly, hope I like it more then it's all hooked up and shiny.
> 
> Oh and because it's so T H I C C I have to re-do half my loop as it blocks the input on the pump. Oh well....


.
I have the same card. When you get up and running, do you think you can let me know some clock speeds that you get?


----------



## rikkiepc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> .
> I have the same card. When you get up and running, do you think you can let me know some clock speeds that you get?


It's already up and running. Great card, very cool ~45 degrees when gaming.
Card is already so fast there's not much use to overclock...at least not @1440P. But of course I'll give it a go


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> .
> I have the same card. When you get up and running, do you think you can let me know some clock speeds that you get?


I love mine too









Across 4 samples I've gotten all of mine to hit 2.1ghz with between a 65 and a 85 MHz offset and a 130 percent power target. Core voltage is 1050 to 1065 at 2.1. I didn't even have to mess with it, GPU boost handled it all (awesome, but less fun then it was in the old days).

Memory clocks have appeared to be stable all the way to 11.8ghz, but when running intensive calculations, speed has gone down with more than a 200mhz boost over stock (11.4). That might not mean as much though, as for gaming loads the 11.8 speed is probably still faster, but there is still technically an instability if calculation speed goes down.

What are your temps like? 1 of my cards is consistently 3-4C hotter than the others. I suspected an air pocket at first, but I flushed the crap out of my loop with a massive transfer pump and they didn't budge. I'm starting to wonder if Gigabyte didn't paste the GPU right, but if so I'm not sure I want to re paste as it means draining my large loop and disassembling the flow bridge set up.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I love mine too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Across 4 samples I've gotten all of mine to hit 2.1ghz with between a 65 and a 85 MHz offset and a 130 percent power target. Core voltage is 1050 to 1065 at 2.1. I didn't even have to mess with it, GPU boost handled it all (awesome, but less fun then it was in the old days).
> 
> Memory clocks have appeared to be stable all the way to 11.8ghz, but when running intensive calculations, speed has gone down with more than a 200mhz boost over stock (11.4). That might not mean as much though, as for gaming loads the 11.8 speed is probably still faster, but there is still technically an instability if calculation speed goes down.
> 
> What are your temps like? 1 of my cards is consistently 3-4C hotter than the others. I suspected an air pocket at first, but I flushed the crap out of my loop with a massive transfer pump and they didn't budge. I'm starting to wonder if Gigabyte didn't paste the GPU right, but if so I'm not sure I want to re paste as it means draining my large loop and disassembling the flow bridge set up.


seems like myboost is 2088. Same thing with memory, it hurts my UH benchmark. I haven't gone about 35-38c on load. I haven't really pushed it anymore. I will in due time.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> seems like myboost is 2088. Same thing with memory, it hurts my UH benchmark. I haven't gone about 35-38c on load. I haven't really pushed it anymore. I will in due time.


I really like that loop you've got. Which anti kink coil are you using? It looks like it came in handy on the run from your pump to your front rad.

Is that out of the box boost or are you using an offset? So far it looks like these cards are hitting clocks that a lot of people struggle to hit.

Your temps are right in line with what I've seen. 31-38C depending on how hard I run my fans and how many other components are running (except for one card that hits 41C). Below 40C I don't think there's any benefit in dropping the temperature further as the cards don't start throttling until about 45 IIRC.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I really like that loop you've got. Which anti kink coil are you using? It looks like it came in handy on the run from your pump to your front rad.
> 
> Is that out of the box boost or are you using an offset? So far it looks like these cards are hitting clocks that a lot of people struggle to hit.
> 
> Your temps are right in line with what I've seen. 31-38C depending on how hard I run my fans and how many other components are running (except for one card that hits 41C). Below 40C I don't think there's any benefit in dropping the temperature further as the cards don't start throttling until about 45 IIRC.


They are Primochills anti kink coils. I figure I bring them back! I don't see many people using them anymore. Lol The ekwb tubing really didn't need them. They made such perfect loops without the coils. I figured it's a added touch plus I used a clear coolant so I figured the coils would bring some color to the tubbing.

Thanks for the compliment!


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I really like that loop you've got. Which anti kink coil are you using? It looks like it came in handy on the run from your pump to your front rad.
> 
> Is that out of the box boost or are you using an offset? So far it looks like these cards are hitting clocks that a lot of people struggle to hit.
> 
> Your temps are right in line with what I've seen. 31-38C depending on how hard I run my fans and how many other components are running (except for one card that hits 41C). Below 40C I don't think there's any benefit in dropping the temperature further as the cards don't start throttling until about 45 IIRC.


There are clock stability breakpoints at 30C and 35C. Both are extremely difficult to achieve however without heat pumps or cold ambients. I've only ever seen chillbox or compressor guys achieve this at the usual 20-24C ambient, much less sustain it beyond benchmarking.

My chip actually stopped being stable at 2100mhz just because it's no longer winter here in AUS and the ambients are 5C higher. This forces my chip to run above 35C which lost me the stability break point (down to 2088mhz).


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> There are clock stability breakpoints at 30C and 35C. Both are extremely difficult to achieve however without heat pumps or cold ambients. I've only ever seen chillbox or compressor guys achieve this at the usual 20-24C ambient, much less sustain it beyond benchmarking.
> 
> My chip actually stopped being stable at 2100mhz just because it's no longer winter here in AUS and the ambients are 5C higher. This forces my chip to run above 35C which lost me the stability break point (down to 2088mhz).


I stand corrected. Did you try forcing a bit more voltage to get 2100 back? Under 40C it should still be possible, though I guess outside of normal boost parameters.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I stand corrected. Did you try forcing a bit more voltage to get 2100 back? Under 40C it should still be possible, though I guess outside of normal boost parameters.


Already at maximum 1.093V.

I was surprised my chip would do 2100mhz at all lol. It could barely do 2025mhz on air at 1.093V so even 2088mhz is a win for me.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Already at maximum 1.093V.
> 
> I was surprised my chip would do 2100mhz at all lol. It could barely do 2025mhz on air at 1.093V so even 2088mhz is a win for me.


Anyway we can go beyond AB voltage limit? Anything passed +60 on the gpu clock will freeze everything . Even when I start to raise voltage in the correct increments I still can't get anything more


----------



## beekermartin

Just a FYI for those considering switching to a water block...

I ordered the Aorus Extreme with the intent to water cool. I was using MSI 2x980ti's with EK blocks and back plates prior to "upgrading" to the single Aorus 1080ti Extreme. I tested the Aorus with the air cooler installed but only to make sure it was working well. I then installed the EK water block. I had ordered the EK block when I ordered the Aorus Extreme. One of the reasons I was hesitant on going with the EK block for the Aorus was the fact the memory VRM was not cooled by the block. I contacted EK and they assured me cooling the memory VRM was not necessary. I also watched a YouTube video that broke down the PCB of the Aorus 1080ti and that basically said the memory VRM was complete overkill and did not require any type of active cooling. Basically he said no air movement at all still wouldn't hurt the memory VRM on the Aorus.

Well I have been trying to figure out a way to use the stock back plate with the EK water block. I knew it wasn't compatible but I was hoping I could easily modify the stock back plate without permanently modifying it. Well I have given up on that and now realize I would have to modify the back plate permanently in order for it to fit perfectly with the EK water block installed. I hate to do that because I usually end up selling the video card when I upgrade with the air cooler installed. I then sell the water block separately. That has worked well for me with my last few video card upgrades. Permanently modifying the back plate would make it harder to sell when I reinstall the air cooler.

I was about to order the EK back plate that works with their water block but I have been hesitant. The fact that it cost ~$35 plus ~$10 shipping has made me hesitant. A back plate with no leds and that basically does nothing other than protects the back of the PCB for ~$45 isn't exactly a bargain. I then saw the posts here that other water blocks from different manufactures cool the memory VRM properly and work with the stock back plate. That had me intrigued about selling the EK block and going with an alternative.

Well tonight I was benchmarking the Aorus Extreme and decided to check the temps on the back of the PCB with no back plate installed using a laser thermometer. Here are my results. Keep in mind the EK block does not cool the memory VRM at all.

While looping 3dmark2011 and then Heaven the highest the memory VRM hit was just under 43c. The highest the core VRM, which is cooled by the EK block, was at the top of the card and that was just under 46c. When 3dmark2011 switched to the CPU test the core VRM did drop faster than the memory VRM. Still that was not even close to an issue since the memory VRM was running so cool anyways. They both dropped to similar temps when not under load very quickly.

Basically what this means to me is EK was right. The memory VRM does not require cooling. I am not saying they shouldn't have cooled it. They should have just to be safe. Regardless it is obvious the memory VRM on the Aorus does not require active cooling.

BTW, I was running the core at +50 and the memory at +500 using MSI Afterburner. That equaled a max core boost of ~2075 mhz and memory speeds over 12,000 mhz. I was at stock voltage but power was set to 150%. Max core temps was 38c with ambient temps of 20c.

I don't know if this helps anyone but it does appear from my non professional tests that the memory VRM is quite alright not being cooled by a water block.

YMMV of course and please don't take this post as fact. It is just my findings and opinions. Cheers!


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alton brown*
> 
> Anyway we can go beyond AB voltage limit? Anything passed +60 on the gpu clock will freeze everything . Even when I start to raise voltage in the correct increments I still can't get anything more


The XOC BIOS for founders edition cards might do the trick, or a volt mod. +60 should have you breaking 2.1 which is the hard wall without a volt mod. I really wish Nvidia hadn't locked the BIOS on Pascal.


----------



## Baden

Hi Guys,

I've currently got an Aorus Xtreme 1080 Ti and want to put a Kraken G12/10 on it. But i would like to keep the back plate on if possible with the RGB lights.

Does anyone know/tried to keep the back plate on and still fit?

Cheers.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baden*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> I've currently got an Aorus Xtreme 1080 Ti and want to put a Kraken G12/10 on it. But i would like to keep the back plate on if possible with the RGB lights.
> 
> Does anyone know/tried to keep the back plate on and still fit?
> 
> Cheers.


some cards are different. I'd email NZXT for a compatibility list. The G10 fit fine with the Asus DCU2 backplate. I know that some other companies in order to keep the plate you will need to add a thin copper heat sink shim between the gpu and the AIO cooler heat sink. 90% of the time people were successful with the shim and stil maintain good temps.


----------



## alton brown

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The XOC BIOS for founders edition cards might do the trick, or a volt mod. +60 should have you breaking 2.1 which is the hard wall without a volt mod. I really wish Nvidia hadn't locked the BIOS on Pascal.


What volt mod do you suggest. No matter what I do I can't get past +60 on AB. Maybe its the card.


----------



## cletus-cassidy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> Just a FYI for those considering switching to a water block...
> 
> I ordered the Aorus Extreme with the intent to water cool. I was using MSI 2x980ti's with EK blocks and back plates prior to "upgrading" to the single Aorus 1080ti Extreme. I tested the Aorus with the air cooler installed but only to make sure it was working well. I then installed the EK water block I had ordered the EK block when I ordered the Aorus Extreme. One of the reasons I was hesitant on going with the EK block for the Aorus was the fact the memory VRM was not cooled by the block. I contacted EK and they assured me cooling the memory VRM was not necessary. I also watched a YouTube video that broke down the PCB of the Aorus 1080ti and that basically said the memory VRM was complete overkill and did not require any type of active cooling. Basically he said no air movement at all still wouldn't hurt the memory VRM on the Aorus.
> 
> Well I have been trying to figure out a way to use the stock back plate with the EK water block. I knew it wasn't compatible but I was hoping I could easily modify the stock back plate without permanently modifying it. Well I have given up on that and now realize I would have to modify the back plate permanently in order for it to fit perfectly with the EK water block installed. I hate to do that because I usually end up selling the video card when I upgrade with the air cooler installed. I then sell the water block separately. That has worked well for me with my last few video card upgrades. Anyway, permanently modifying the back plate would make it harder to sell when I reinstall the air cooler.
> 
> Anyway, I was about to order the EK back plate that works with their water block but I have been hesitant. The fact that it cost ~$35 plus ~$10 shipping has made me hesitant. A back plate with no leds and that basically does nothing other than protects the back of the PCB for ~$45 isn't exactly a bargain. I then saw the posts here that other water blocks from different manufactures cool the memory VRM properly and work with the stock back plate. That had me intrigued about selling the EK block and going with an alternative.
> 
> Well tonight I was benchmarking the Aorus Extreme and decided to check the temps on the back of the PCB with no back plate installed using a laser thermometer. Here are my results. Keep in mind the EK block does not cool the memory VRM at all.
> 
> While looping 3dmark2011 and then Heaven the highest the memory VRM hit was just under 43c. The highest the core VRM, which is cooled by the EK block, was at the top of the card and that was just under 46c. When 3dmark2011 switched to the CPU test the core VRM did drop faster than the memory VRM. Still that was not even close to an issue since the memory VRM was running so cool anyways. They both dropped to similar temps when not under load very quickly.
> 
> Basically what this means to me is EK was right. The memory VRM does not require cooling. I am not saying they shouldn't have cooled it. They should have just to be safe. Regardless it is obvious the memory VRM on the Aorus does not require active cooling.
> 
> BTW, I was running the core at +50 and the memory at +500 using MSI Afterburner. That equaled a max core boost of ~2075 mhz and memory speeds over 12,000 mhz. I was at stock voltage but power was set to 150%. Max core temps was 38c with ambient temps of 68f.
> 
> I don't know if this helps anyone but it does appear from my non professional tests that the memory VRM is quite alright not being cooled by a water block.
> 
> YMMV of course and please don't take this post as fact. It is just my findings and opinions. Cheers!


Good data. Repped.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

What's up guys. Glad to see my thread is still going strong! I've just been enjoying the card at a moderate overclock of 2063 playing Project Cars 2 in VR with everything maxed out and super sampling set to 2x. Getting a solid 75 FPS in my DK2. Waiting for a HMD that is extremely high resolution so there will be no screen door.

Recently I've just been playing Forza Motorsport 7. With everything maxed out and the FPS set to unlocked I'm getting upwards of 210 FPS, I'm usually running around 150-170 FPS. No screen tearing even though my 1440p G-Sync monitor only supports 144hz (Acer XB270HU). The only issue is slight stuttering at those high frames so until they implement in game v-sync and pre-rendered frames like they did in FH3. Until then I'm stuck running at 60 FPS (V-Sync) even though that means 72 FPS for my monitor for some reason.

EDIT: POST #2222!!! Going to make 2 wishes!


----------



## jonathan1107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I would buy a block for the card you already own. Nobody pays full sticker for a used card, so you'd take a hit selling the one you have and buying a new one. You always have the option of going back to air cooled if you keep your current card and just add a block, so it's a more versatile solution.
> 
> If I were buying a new card, I'd buy the Gigabyte WB model (which is exactly what I did). The Poseidon is rather large, and does not cool the VRM's as well as the Gigabyte card. It also dumps heat in the case if you let the fans spin. The Zotac card has questionable VRM's (they are not very efficient so they waste a good deal of energy, which is part of why the arcticstorm has such a high TDP limit).
> 
> For the card you have (the Gigabyte), I would not recommend the EK block. They neglected to cool the memory VRM's in their design, and it is incompatible with the stock backplate. I would recommend you buy a bitspower block, or even buy a Bykski. Both are fully compatible with the stock back plate, and I believe the Bykski is actually the block Gigabyte chose to go with.


Well I ended up ordering the EK waterblock and backplate because here in Canada there's just no way to order the bitspower or the bykski waterblocks... I looked all over the web and couldn't find anywhere to buy them... Except maybe for the bykski on aliexpress... but then huge custom fees so... yeah...

Apparantly the memory VRM don't even need the cooling all that much


----------



## Kutalion

Memory draws very little power. And the mosfets are generally very efficient so doubt they would radiate more than a watt or two of heat.


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutalion*
> 
> Memory draws very little power. And the mosfets are generally very efficient so doubt they would radiate more than a watt or two of heat.


GDDR5X is more efficient than GDDR5, but this quantity at these speeds is still ~40w under load.

The memory VRM itself, if it's ~90% efficient, would need to disipate about ~4w of heat, but the PCB itself is capable of doing that and keeping the VRM well within spec.


----------



## Valter84

Today I have oc my Gigabyte Aorus Gtx 1080 Ti Xtreme Edtion thank`s to this thread.
You can check my pc build on my signature.

MSI Afterburner Settings:
Power limit: 150%
Temp Limit: 90ºC
Core clock: +58 (with 60 started to get errors)
Memory Clock: + 400
I have set my own fan speed configuration.
Max temperature Heaven Benchmark 69ºC.

Results: 3DMark TimeSpay: 10252
GPU Score: 10639
CPU Score: 8501

Thank you for all your posts in this thread. Read many pages before starting the OC.


----------



## Asus11

does anyone know if replacing thermal pads on a 1080 ti would make much of a difference? I think I have a 1080ti that has some bad QC when it comes to assembling the block, this is pretty common on the Seahawk EK X


----------



## jonathan1107

Oddly according to EK their water block isn't compatible with the factory backplate on the gtx 1080 ti aorus xtreme édition and yet I've found a guy on YouTube who seems to install their water block and the factory backplate from gigabyte no problems...?! What to make of this???


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Oddly according to EK their water block isn't compatible with the factory backplate on the gtx 1080 ti aorus xtreme édition and yet I've found a guy on YouTube who seems to install their water block and the factory backplate from gigabyte no problems...?! What to make of this???


The stock Aorus backplate is trash compared to EK's one anyway. If the screws fit, then more power to the consumer lol. See it as a bonus, don't see it as a guarantee.


----------



## jonathan1107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> The stock Aorus backplate is trash compared to EK's one anyway. If the screws fit, then more power to the consumer lol. See it as a bonus, don't see it as a guarantee.


Well from what I can see, the differences between the aorus factory backplate and the ek are the following:

Ek backplate is much thicker
Ek backplate has less thermal pads than the aorus one and covers less area of the back of the gpu and it's surroundings

So I'm guessing the reason for which eks plate might be better is its thickness. It probably doesn't get as hot because of the thickness although I'm not a physics specialist. Might be I'm completely wrong lol


----------



## MaKeN

Guys anyone has Asus bios flashed on the extreme waterforce?


----------



## murenitu

I have a Sorus of Aorus 1080ti xtreme edition with water blocks EKWB and the blackplate OEM, with the logo of the eagle, without any problem.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Well from what I can see, the differences between the aorus factory backplate and the ek are the following:
> 
> Ek backplate is much thicker
> Ek backplate has less thermal pads than the aorus one and covers less area of the back of the gpu and it's surroundings
> 
> So I'm guessing the reason for which eks plate might be better is its thickness. It probably doesn't get as hot because of the thickness although I'm not a physics specialist. Might be I'm completely wrong lol


EK's backplate is thicker that is true but it also has much more intimate contact with the backside components. You will only need 1mm-1.5mm pads for the EK plate usually but the stock plate needs 1.5-2mm padding. This is a big deal because the extra thickness is better to be metal than thermal pad for optimal heat transfer.


----------



## jonathan1107

I just finished installing the thermal pads for the ek waterblock for the aorus xtreme edition 1080 ti and I confirm there is an issue with the vrm height!

There are four rows of chokes/modules on the right of the card and the 1st and 3rd rows have thermal pads that do not touch the ek block!

Has anyone found a fix. What have the other ek waterblock owners for this card done?

This is the xtreme edition btw


----------



## fly4ever

Hi guys,

it's been couple of months since I got my Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme GPU but unfortunately it seems there are issues installing it.My mobo is also Gigabyte (Z87X-OC) and a possible compatibility problem was the least I could think of when I purchased the card.Ιnitially I thought there might be an issue with the card itself so I gave it to another guy to test it.Everything went o.k. in his configuration,therefore must be some kind of issue with my motherboard alone.I tried to install the card to another PCI port only to discover the same outcome,absolutely no signal on monitor.Additionaly and aside the complete signal absence, the booting procedure halts at stage "64" on the debug display on the mobo.Since there's no signal on my screen I can't see at which stage the system halts but I tend to believe it's well before the BIOS.One could think a power issue but my 3half year old PSU (Corsair GS800) is considered quite adequate even for the hungry appetite of a GPU like this.Strange thing is the RGB and fan of the card are working during the proccess but apart from this the systme seems unable to regognize the card and complete the booting proccess.The GPU I have already installed (Gigabyte geforce GTX 980 Xtreme 4GD) works perfectly fine and its installation 1half years ago was piece of cake.

I would be more than glad to hear what may someone have to say and any kind of help will be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance!


----------



## murenitu

if the board is an asus, that qcode code has to do with the cpu ... not with the gpu.


----------



## fly4ever

No,the board isn't Asus it's Gigabyte but the code in the debug display is more or less the same as far as I know.In fact "63-67" is described as"CPU DXE initialization is started" in mobo's manual.Under normal conditions (older GPU installed) the booting sequence is so fast to a pace it's impossible to exactly see the "64" coming up on the display as the whole boot process to OS ("AE" on the debug display) isn't more than 17 seconds.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Can any of you MSI 1080ti Seahawk EK X owners tell me if this card hits the power limit like the founders cards, or is it worth buying ?
Just returned my MSI 1080 Seahawk EK X back to amazon, because of horrendous coilwhine.


----------



## somerandombloke

Upgrade to Aorus 1080 Ti recently from a Radeon R9 290. Double the performance at 1080P. Now I just need a g-sync monitor to replace my freesync one. Wished there was a workaround for that.


----------



## jonathan1107

Whats the best bios to run? f3 or f4?


----------



## MaKeN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Whats the best bios to run? f3 or f4?


https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/193733/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-170516
I think this one


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Can any of you MSI 1080ti Seahawk EK X owners tell me if this card hits the power limit like the founders cards, or is it worth buying ?
> Just returned my MSI 1080 Seahawk EK X back to amazon, because of horrendous coilwhine.


Its just the gaming X with a water block. Decent card. I'm pretty sure it has a higher power limit available, but Google shows that limit is only 330W.

The Aorus has a limit of 375W and beefier VRMs. If you're going for full throttle it's a better option. That said I can't get my Aorus over 330W (usually hovers around 305-315).


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> I have searched for Bitspower and Bykski blocks. I can't find much information about either one. Could you possibly add some links with reviews or photos of them installed on the Aorus 1080ti. I was about to order the EK back plate since I already installed the EK block. I am now considering selling the EK block and getting something different. I really want to use the stock back plate but I don't want to modify it for it to work with the EK block.


You must have ordered the wrong waterblock because I've installed an EK full waterblock (Plexi-nickel) with a nickel backplate, and the GPU, RAM, and VRM are all watercooled. However, I did order the Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 in 0.5mm and 1mm to use instead of the EK pads that come with the block and everything is in contact with the waterblock. I'm still putting together my waterloop, so I can't tell you anything about temps yet, but I can tell you that using the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal grease for my GPU, Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 in 0.5mm for the VRM and the 1mm for the RAM (or vise versa, I don't remember), everything is in solid contact with my waterblock and backplate. Listed below is a link to the EK waterblock you need. I got the nickel full backplate as well, but everything will be cooled once I finish my build.

https://www.ekwb.com/news/new-ek-full-cover-water-blocks-1080-ti-aorus-graphics-cards/


----------



## chr0mium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/193733/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-170516
> I think this one


Just ordered a non Xtreme Aorus, any benefit to installing this bios? Will it even work?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chr0mium*
> 
> Just ordered a non Xtreme Aorus, any benefit to installing this bios? Will it even work?


The cards are identical except for the backplate (bigger copper patch on the xtreme which does nothing) and for the out of the box clocks. You could cross flash the xtreme BIOS for a few extra mhz, but you'll end up using software to overclock regardless, at which point you will get identical results on the stock BIOS.


----------



## chr0mium

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The cards are identical except for the backplate (bigger copper patch on the xtreme which does nothing) and for the out of the box clocks. You could cross flash the xtreme BIOS for a few extra mhz, but you'll end up using software to overclock regardless, at which point you will get identical results on the stock BIOS.


Thanks. What's this I'm reading about 125% power target on the non Xtreme v 150% on the Xtreme?


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> I just finished installing the thermal pads for the ek waterblock for the aorus xtreme edition 1080 ti and I confirm there is an issue with the vrm height!
> 
> There are four rows of chokes/modules on the right of the card and the 1st and 3rd rows have thermal pads that do not touch the ek block!
> 
> Has anyone found a fix. What have the other ek waterblock owners for this card done?
> 
> This is the xtreme edition btw


You need 0.5mm pads on one and 1mm pads on the other. I ordered the Thermal Grizzly pads instead if using the pads EK Sent with the block, but one definitely needs pads twice as thick as the other.


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> You must have ordered the wrong waterblock because I've installed an EK full waterblock (Plexi-nickel) with a nickel backplate, and the GPU, RAM, and VRM are all watercooled. However, I did order the Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 in 0.5mm and 1mm to use instead of the EK pads that come with the block and everything is in contact with the waterblock. I'm still putting together my waterloop, so I can't tell you anything about temps yet, but I can tell you that using the Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut thermal grease for my GPU, Thermal Grizzly Minus Pad 8 in 0.5mm for the VRM and the 1mm for the RAM (or vise versa, I don't remember), everything is in solid contact with my waterblock and backplate. Listed below is a link to the EK waterblock you need. I got the nickel full backplate as well, but everything will be cooled once I finish my build.
> 
> https://www.ekwb.com/news/new-ek-full-cover-water-blocks-1080-ti-aorus-graphics-cards/


I did not order the wrong water block. The EK blocks do not contact the memory VRM. The memory VRM is to the right of the core VRM. It is not cooled by the EK block. Again, this doesn't appear to be an issue but most would prefer it was cooled.


----------



## beekermartin

It is hard to see in that video but the stock back plate will not sit flush against the back of the card. It could be used in stock form but it will stick up some on both ends because of the screw standoffs on the back plate. That means it won't contact the back of the pcb properly. Now does that matter much? Probably not since it is being water cooled and temps will be low anyways. My OCD doesn't like the look of it sticking up on the ends. I thought about cutting the stand offs using a dremel cut off wheel but I haven't done it yet. The issue then becomes installing the stock air cooler and back plate when I want to sell it. I am not sure if the back plate will still work properly if I trim the standoffs.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Oddly according to EK their water block isn't compatible with the factory backplate on the gtx 1080 ti aorus xtreme édition and yet I've found a guy on YouTube who seems to install their water block and the factory backplate from gigabyte no problems...?! What to make of this???


----------



## zepsy4x

Hi, I'm planning on buying an Aorus but my mobo is an Asus VIII Hero, I have see many people saying that the Aorus don't work with Asus is that true ?

Thanks


----------



## lowmotion

I read about that problem. So there is a chance that the Aorus wont be recognized in your Asus mainboard.

I put my Aorus under water and now: what? What are the settings for water? Power Target @ 125%? And?


----------



## NovaGOD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zepsy4x*
> 
> Hi, I'm planning on buying an Aorus but my mobo is an Asus VIII Hero, I have see many people saying that the Aorus don't work with Asus is that true ?
> 
> Thanks


Works fine with my hero vii, not sure about the viii though.


----------



## MaKeN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NovaGOD*
> 
> Works fine with my hero vii, not sure about the viii though.


Works fine on my asus code also...
Only a problem is that aura sync wont control lightening


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lowmotion*
> 
> I read about that problem. So there is a chance that the Aorus wont be recognized in your Asus mainboard.
> 
> I put my Aorus under water and now: what? What are the settings for water? Power Target @ 125%? And?


Set power and temp to max. Run a benchmark and see what it is boosting up to. Add 10mhz to the core and run the benchmark again. Keep raising the core until it crashes. Then back it down to where it is stable. Do the same with the memory but add 50mhz at a time until you get errors. Once you have both max stable settings run them together and see what your stable benchmark scores are. Lower both settings a bit and check the score again. If the score goes up your max overclock is actually hurting performance. You need to find the highest speed and highest benchmark score. Once you have that you have your best settings. Up to you if you want to run it that way 24/7 or create less aggressive profiles for games that aren't as demanding. I have found that overclocking under water doesn't really add that much performance. Boost 3.0 does a damn good job when temps are low and power is set to max. You will get some improvement, especially memory speeds, but it isn't that substantial.


----------



## rolldog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> I did not order the wrong water block. The EK blocks do not contact the memory VRM. The memory VRM is to the right of the core VRM. It is not cooled by the EK block. Again, this doesn't appear to be an issue but most would prefer it was cooled.


OK, well all I can say is that EVERYTHING is cooled on my EK Waterblock for my Aorus 1080 Ti


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolldog*
> 
> OK, well all I can say is that EVERYTHING is cooled on my EK Waterblock for my Aorus 1080 Ti


I hate to inform you but it isn't. I'll try to post a photo highlighting what I am trying to explain. Again, it is nothing to worry about but the EK block does not cool the memory VRM. This is well known and your EK block is no exception.


----------



## beekermartin

This should help explain it. As you can see from the photos the memory VRM is not contacted by the EK water block.


----------



## jonathan1107

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beekermartin*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This should help explain it. As you can see from the photos the memory VRM is not contacted by the EK water block.


Oh... So that's the memory vrm... Omg what were ek thinking?

Anyhow, I searched for the other two water blocks that were suggested on this thread and they're near impossible to order here in Canada... No one has them. The only place would be AliExpress but then I'd be facing huge custom fees

Well that confirms it, my watercooled cars is going to need air lol!

Man... The irony

The obstacles just never stop piling up when it comes to pc building lol


----------



## beekermartin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Oh... So that's the memory vrm... Omg what were ek thinking?
> 
> Anyhow, I searched for the other two water blocks that were suggested on this thread and they're near impossible to order here in Canada... No one has them. The only place would be AliExpress but then I'd be facing huge custom fees
> 
> Well that confirms it, my watercooled cars is going to need air lol!
> 
> Man... The irony
> 
> The obstacles just never stop piling up when it comes to pc building lol


EK says the memory VRM does not need to be cooled. This Gamers Nexus video states the memory VRM only uses ~1-3 watts and doesn't need active cooling. 



 It is about ~14 minutes in when he discusses the memory VRM. I wouldn't worry about it. I haven't had any issues with temps. I posted earlier that I measured the the temps on the back of the PCB using a laser thermometer while stress testing and the memory VRM was very cool. It was in the high 40's. The same as the core VRM which is being actively cooled by the EK water block. The max safe temp is 125c. It appears EK is correct and the memory VRM does not require active cooling. I do wish EK would have cooled it though so this wouldn't be an issue.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Oh... So that's the memory vrm... Omg what were ek thinking?
> 
> Anyhow, I searched for the other two water blocks that were suggested on this thread and they're near impossible to order here in Canada... No one has them. The only place would be AliExpress but then I'd be facing huge custom fees
> 
> Well that confirms it, my watercooled cars is going to need air lol!
> 
> Man... The irony
> 
> The obstacles just never stop piling up when it comes to pc building lol


You'll be fine with the EK block, although it's disappointing that they didn't include everything (what part of full cover they didn't understand, IDK).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chr0mium*
> 
> Thanks. What's this I'm reading about 125% power target on the non Xtreme v 150% on the Xtreme?


I'm not sure it's true. Looking at techpowerup, it looks like the vanilla Aorus has a 375W max. What people are confused about is probably that Gigabyte changed the power target for both the Xtreme and non-Xtreme cards with the latest BIOS revision. They used to be 300W base with a 125% max for 375W total, but they are now 250W base with a 150% max for a 375W total.


----------



## Blameless

The max limit is the same on all the Aorus SKUs and firmware versions, the base limit varies, but the base limit is irrelevant if you are willing to adjust the slider.


----------



## lowmotion

So for full cover you have to buy the bykski (like me). Its cheaper (incl fees).


----------



## TucoPacifico

Did a Superposition Extreme today, after Windows 10 went Creators Update, installing 387.92 drivers and MSI Afterburner 4.4.0 Beta 19. Went from 6262 (my last result with Windows build 15XXX) to 6319. Aorus 1080 Ti non-xtreme, stock cooling. 2088-2063 MHz/11954 MHz. Performance is better.


----------



## MaKeN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Did a Superposition Extreme today, after Windows 10 went Creators Update, installing 387.92 drivers and MSI Afterburner 4.4.0 Beta 19. Went from 6262 (my last result with Windows build 15XXX) to 6319. Aorus 1080 Ti non-xtreme, stock cooling. 2088-2063 MHz/11954 MHz. Performance is better.


Why is your score so low?
I get 9300 undervolted at 1772mhz 0.8mv


----------



## khaela

9300 in superposition 1080p Extreme? ??


----------



## MaKeN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *khaela*
> 
> 9300 in superposition 1080p Extreme? ??


Ups , no sry i was talking about 4k
But in 1080p extreme i get 5669 with no tweeks.

Anyway, i would suggest to everyone to undervolt to 0.8mv and find the best oc at this volts.
You will see a massive temperature drop for me it was from 45c to 37.thats under water... i imagine much biger temp drops if on air
And like 5 fps drop in games


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaKeN*
> 
> Ups , no sry i was talking about 4k
> But in 1080p extreme i get 5669 with no tweeks.
> 
> Anyway, i would suggest to everyone to undervolt to 0.8mv and find the best oc at this volts.
> You will see a massive temperature drop for me it was from 45c to 37.thats under water... i imagine much biger temp drops if on air
> And like 5 fps drop in games


I max this card out. Playing on a 1080p monitor (still, not for long anymore), rendering DSR @1440p, recording with OBS @1440p, streaming at the same time 720p, heavily modded games, I need all performance I can get. No interest in undervolting. I am totally fine with my temperatures being at ~59C when doing superposition.


----------



## Lao Tzu

Overclock 1

1911/11954

Core Voltage: 0
Power Limit: 125%
Temp Limit:85°C

Core Clock:+75
Memory clock:+475
GPU Temp:59°C



Overclock 2

2050/11954 (2038 sustained)

Core Voltage: +100 (1.093v max)
Power Limit: 150%
Temp Limit:90°C

Core Clock:+75
Memory clock:+475
GPU Temp:64°C


----------



## Lao Tzu

Overclock 1

1911/11954

Core Voltage: 0
Power Limit: 125%
Temp Limit:85°C

Core Clock:+75
Memory clock:+475
GPU Temp:59°C



Overclock 2

2050/11954 (2038 sustained)

Core Voltage: +100 (1.093v max)
Power Limit: 150%
Temp Limit:90°C

Core Clock:+75
Memory clock:+475
GPU Temp:64°C


----------



## XofaDK

Is this any good??









Just tried with +75 core and my score was 9859 ?! lol ***


----------



## chr0mium

Hi all,

Just installed my Aorus GTX 1080 ti (non Xtreme) tonight. It replace my G1 Gaming GTX 1080

Should I overclock? Haven't done any overclocking in years and don't really know where to start









How much more performance could I expect to get with stock cooling over just leaving it at default? I don't want to go overboard and spend all my time tweaking and worrying about stability and heat, a modest overclock would be nice


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chr0mium*
> 
> How much more performance could I expect to get with stock cooling over just leaving it at default?


About 5%, maybe a bit more.


----------



## Snacko

Never mind. I figured it out, but can't delete my post..


----------



## Jayombie

Asking out if anyone has installed the *FALL Creator update for Windows 10* and what your experiences have been ?

Since updating, I have been experiencing sudden game performance drops from 60fps to exactly 30fps in some games but not all. So its been a tricky one as its not been consistent.

The games don't stay at 30fps but have jumped back to 60fps in seconds but also sometimes minutes.

I tried, disabling GAME MODE on/off....

I tried other driver revisions, currently using 388.

I tried disabling background tasks, with the likes of AntiBeacon and DWS_Lite.

I am and having a go at trying different Vsync settings. Off / On in Nvidia Control Panel and different combinations in games. Latest testing commenced today with Vsync off in Control Panel and experimenting with it enabled or off in games I am having the problems with.

So far Skyrim with it on has maintained 60fps....

So far 7 Days to Die (Unity Engine) its been off in game and although its been jumping about from 100 to 90 etc its not clamped back to 30fps as it once was.

I will keep testing.


----------



## haha216

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kfxsti*
> 
> I'm going to pick up a ek backplate and see if there is a difference in the temps. I don't like the way the stock fit back on here. It's doing its job I suppose, but I want to test with both lol


Finally got round to buying a temp gun. The backplate is simmering at a steady 59c - which is higher than i'd like, but something im not particularly concerned about. The GPU core is reading much less than this, so i think everything is in order... 59c sure does feel hot to the touch


----------



## AA junkie

Your superposition scores are so high.(or mines are so low)
My score is 8900 with an i7 7700k stock+aorus 1080ti non extreme stock+16gb 2133 ddr4 ram+win10x64(1709).
I remember achieving scores around 9500 with all AB sliders to the max, but it still seems low respecting some 10000+ score I see here.
Am I missing something ?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Your superposition scores are so high.(or mines are so low)
> My score is 8900 with an i7 7700k stock+aorus 1080ti non extreme stock+16gb 2133 ddr4 ram+win10x64(1709).
> I remember achieving scores around 9500 with all AB sliders to the max, but it still seems low respecting some 10000+ score I see here.
> Am I missing something ?


Maxing out all sliders won't provide the highest performance. Too much voltage will cause the power limit to be hit before peak stable clock speeds are and too high memory clock will throw errors, or fall on the wrong ratio/timing strap, and also reduce performance.

Also, most people benching Superposition are using performance driver settings rather than the default 'quality', a change which is worth a few hundred points.

You should be seeing ~9500 stock and 10000-10300 with stable stock cooler settings in Superposition 4k.


----------



## MaKeN

Anyone knows if this is the rgb/lightening connector for this card?

And if so, there exists an adaptor to a normal 4 pin rgb cable?

Trying to aura sync that with asus mobo...


----------



## b4thman

I am thinking on water cooling my cpu and gpu. I have seen some cpu solutions, but I have no idea about a good solution (if any) to cool with water my Gigabyte aorus 1080 ti. I can not stand the noise it makes, and it also introduces a lot of heat into my pc case (among 80-90º is a lot of heat).


----------



## beekermartin

I decided to modify the stock back plate for it to sit closer to the pcb with an EK waterblock. Essentially I cut off the small portion that would normally go through the pcb and screws from the front would thread into. I didn't cut off the entire standoff just the small part that went through the pcb. I am talking about the two standoffs on both ends of the back plate for a total of 4. The first photo shows how the 4 outer standoffs look in stock form. The second photo shows them cut down. I used a dremel with a cutoff wheel. This allows the backplate to sit closer to the back of the pcb with the EK waterblock installed. Keep in mind that only three screws are actually holding it to the waterblock. The rest can't be used with the EK waterblock without seriously modifying the backplate. I didn't want to modify it anymore than I did so I can still install the air cooler and backplate when the time comes to sell the 1080ti. If you look at the third photo the three screws to the left of the Aorus led symbol are the three holding the backplate to the card. The small EK screws work fine. The longer EK screws the block comes with are slightly too long but they could work as well. The small scews only thread in about three turns but that is enough in my opinion. The longer screws are slightly too long and it felt like they were cutting past the stock EK threads before they bottomed out. That is why I used the stock small screws. I am also using a stock video card case setup. Gravity is holding the card on as well. It isn't going anywhere. There thermal pads that contact the backplate are all around the three screws that are being used so they are still making solid contact. Anyway, I finally decided to do this instead of spending the money on an EK backplate. It isn't perfect but good enough for me. In the last photo you can see how the end is curled up some because noting is holding down. Maybe some double sided tape would help but I am fine with the way it is. My computer sits on the floor and I can't see that small imperfection.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XofaDK*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is this any good??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just tried with +75 core and my score was 9859 ?! lol ***


Hey, when you hit Ctrl + F having the AB window in front of you, then you can edit the curve. Here's mine:



And here's the 4K Optimized DirectX result:


----------



## Bekrah

My PC is not running games as I would have hoped. I ran a 3DMark bench and I noticed at one point during the process than my CPU was running at about 99% and my Graphics card was only at about 30% or so. The highest usage my GPU saw during the benchmark was about 71%. Someone told me to change the Power Management Mode (within Nvidia Control Panel) to Maximum Performance and that didn't help at all. I was also told to change the Power Plan within Windows from Balanced to High Performance and that didn't help either.

Shadow of War dips down into the 20's (FPS) at times...
Black Desert hovers around 12 FPS (making it unplayable.
Gears of War 4 averages around 35 FPS and the GPU usage hangs around 50-60%
Hellblade (when in full screen mode) averages around 50 FPS and the GPU usage is around 90-99%

I have tried ALL of my games in full screen mode and it ONLY makes a difference in Hellblade.

Can anyone offer any advice as to how I can get my graphics card to use 100% of its potential?
I'm running in 2160p resolution on a single display. I'm using a riser cable as well. I disconnected the cable and hooked the GPU directly into the motherboard wondering if that was the issue. It turns out, I got the same result. This is very frustrating to say the least.
Even my old i5-4690K and GTX 1080 ran much better than this.

CPU: Intel i7 8700K (Coffee Lake)
AIO: NZXT Krakken X62
GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080ti
MOBO: MSI Z370 GODLIKE GAMING
MEMORY: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (32GB) DDR4 (3600MHz)
NVMe - M.2: Samsung 960 EVO (256GB) (OS/Apps)
SSD 1: 120GB (Misc)
SSD 2: 240GB (Games)
SSD 3: 750GB (Games)
SSD 4: 1TB (Games)
PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 (Fully Modular)
OS: Windows 10 Fall Creators Update (1709)


----------



## Jason-uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bekrah*
> 
> My PC is not running games as I would have hoped. I ran a 3DMark bench and I noticed at one point during the process than my CPU was running at about 99% and my Graphics card was only at about 30% or so. The highest usage my GPU saw during the benchmark was about 71%. Someone told me to change the Power Management Mode (within Nvidia Control Panel) to Maximum Performance and that didn't help at all. I was also told to change the Power Plan within Windows from Balanced to High Performance and that didn't help either.
> 
> Shadow of War dips down into the 20's (FPS) at times...
> Black Desert hovers around 12 FPS (making it unplayable.
> Gears of War 4 averages around 35 FPS and the GPU usage hangs around 50-60%
> Hellblade (when in full screen mode) averages around 50 FPS and the GPU usage is around 90-99%
> 
> I have tried ALL of my games in full screen mode and it ONLY makes a difference in Hellblade.
> 
> Can anyone offer any advice as to how I can get my graphics card to use 100% of its potential?
> I'm running in 2160p resolution on a single display. I'm using a riser cable as well. I disconnected the cable and hooked the GPU directly into the motherboard wondering if that was the issue. It turns out, I got the same result. This is very frustrating to say the least.
> Even my old i5-4690K and GTX 1080 ran much better than this.
> 
> CPU: Intel i7 8700K (Coffee Lake)
> AIO: NZXT Krakken X62
> GPU: Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080ti
> MOBO: MSI Z370 GODLIKE GAMING
> MEMORY: G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (32GB) DDR4 (3600MHz)
> NVMe - M.2: Samsung 960 EVO (256GB) (OS/Apps)
> SSD 1: 120GB (Misc)
> SSD 2: 240GB (Games)
> SSD 3: 750GB (Games)
> SSD 4: 1TB (Games)
> PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 (Fully Modular)
> OS: Windows 10 Fall Creators Update (1709)


Please make sure that you're running the latest bios for you motherboard /gpu , also make sure that all the drivers your are using are the latest available form manufacture , apart from that there isn't much else you can do apart from tweak setting in your bioses and windows i'm afraid / as its a very new setup you will have to go through the process of elimination with your components / swapping and try pars in different pc.

Please check to make sure all components are installed correctly and if possible take them out and then reinstall making sure you have a snug fit / do this for cpu,gpu,ram ,hd,remove than replug all power supply connectors too


----------



## Bekrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason-uk*
> 
> Please make sure that you're running the latest bios for you motherboard /gpu , also make sure that all the drivers your are using are the latest available form manufacture , apart from that there isn't much else you can do apart from tweak setting in your bioses and windows i'm afraid / as its a very new setup you will have to go through the process of elimination with your components / swapping and try pars in different pc.
> 
> Please check to make sure all components are installed correctly and if possible take them out and then reinstall making sure you have a snug fit / do this for cpu,gpu,ram ,hd,remove than replug all power supply connectors too


I discovered the culprit. My CPU won't go over 800Mhz. Even in the BIOS is remains clocked extremely low.


----------



## XofaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TucoPacifico*
> 
> Hey, when you hit Ctrl + F having the AB window in front of you, then you can edit the curve. Here's mine:
> 
> 
> 
> And here's the 4K Optimized DirectX result:


Hmm... I don't understand .. When I press Ctrl + F I do get the AB window, but I'm still not allowed to change the core voltage.. I guess I have to do that somewhere else, yes?


----------



## XofaDK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bekrah*
> 
> I discovered the culprit. My CPU won't go over 800Mhz. Even in the BIOS is remains clocked extremely low.


What CPU do you have? I noticed in your screenshot you provided that you only are giving your CPU *0.710* voltage??

I got a 7700k which sits at 1.136 voltage.


----------



## Jason-uk

Have you confirmed this in the Windows o/s by the means of a cpu stress test and monitoring ? with the likes of cpuz , is ti possible that you have some sort of power saving feature turned on either in the bios or windows , try restoring bios defaults and check all setting under cpu power saving or advanced setting in your bios , sorry i cant help more your system is very new and i only have general trouble shooting experience of such system .

Hope you find your problem soon , if not try contacting motherboard manufacturer for more support , as i doubt it has anything to do with your gpu good luck and let us know how you get on and the fix that fixed your problems


----------



## Bekrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *XofaDK*
> 
> What CPU do you have? I noticed in your screenshot you provided that you only are giving your CPU *0.710* voltage??
> 
> I got a 7700k which sits at 1.136 voltage.


I listed my parts in the opening post. I'm running a i7-8700K.


----------



## Bekrah

Problem solved!!!

Now I feel like the stupidest person on earth...

This particular Mobo requires TWO power cables going to the CPU. Since this is my very first enthusiast mobo I completely ignored plugging up the SECOND power cable as I've never had to before on my previous 3 builds...
Needless to say after plugging in the cable labeled CPU2 on both the power supply and motherboard Windows booted up so fast I believe it.
GPU usage is 95-100% now.

Playing Shadow of War now with the 4K textures pack installed and I'm running in Ultra settings. I haven't seen a dip in FPS lower than 56!!!! Freakin insane!!!!
Needless to say, I won't be leaving the house for the next week!!! ??


----------



## Jason-uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bekrah*
> 
> Problem solved!!!
> 
> Now I feel like the stupidest person on earth...
> 
> This particular Mobo requires TWO power cables going to the CPU. Since this is my very first enthusiast mobo I completely ignored plugging up the SECOND power cable as I've never had to before on my previous 3 builds...
> Needless to say after plugging in the cable labeled CPU2 on both the power supply and motherboard Windows booted up so fast I believe it.
> GPU usage is 95-100% now.
> 
> Playing Shadow of War now with the 4K textures pack installed and I'm running in Ultra settings. I haven't seen a dip in FPS lower than 56!!!! Freakin insane!!!!
> Needless to say, I won't be leaving the house for the next week!!! ??


EXCELLENT News , now sit back and enjoy your gaming PC .

When you get more familiar with your setup , look into overclocking that monster of a cpu, as it is a K model and should overclocking with minimal effort , the msi godlike M/B will have auto overclocking available from within the bios or from msi own windows software .

I've noticed from your screenshot that your ram (ddr4) is running @ at default 2133mhz as you purchased G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (32GB) DDR4 (3600MHz) make sure to set intel extreme memory profile (xmp) as its known to make the ram run @ 3600mhz this will net you quite a lot more performance, depending on the game or app you will see a nice increase in FPS .

look under your ram setting in your motherboard bios for XMP or intel extreme memory profile, and its as simple as just enabling it , it will auto overclock the speed ,timing and voltage of the ram to the advertised speed 3600mhz .


----------



## Bekrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jason-uk*
> 
> EXCELLENT News , now sit back and enjoy your gaming PC .
> 
> When you get more familiar with your setup , look into overclocking that monster of a cpu, as it is a K model and should overclocking with minimal effort , the msi godlike M/B will have auto overclocking available from within the bios or from msi own windows software .
> 
> I've noticed from your screenshot that your ram (ddr4) is running @ at default 2133mhz as you purchased G.SKILL Trident Z RGB (32GB) DDR4 (3600MHz) make sure to set intel extreme memory profile (xmp) as its known to make the ram run @ 3600mhz this will net you quite a lot more performance, depending on the game or app you will see a nice increase in FPS .
> 
> look under your ram setting in your motherboard bios for XMP or intel extreme memory profile, and its as simple as just enabling it , it will auto overclock the speed ,timing and voltage of the ram to the advertised speed 3600mhz .


Done! Thanks for everything! This has been a night and day experience in comparison to my previous build (i5-4690K/GTX 1080).


----------



## Hydroplane

Just ordered the AORUS 1080 Ti Waterforce WB

Edit: I see there is a thread specifically for the Waterforce cards.


----------



## b4thman

Can anybody tell me if there is any good way to change the refrigeration of this card to make it with water?

I am not happy at all with the high noise when I play a game, I can not stand it unless I wear headphones. If there is no easy way to reduce the noise I am thinking on give it back to Amazon and buy another with water cooling (maybe the 1080 TI Waterforce, I don't know). Do you think it is a good idea?

I really don't understand why this expensive things do not came with every detail implemented, and providing the high temperatures this graphics cards should be sold always with watercooling systems to reduce noise and not heat so much the interior of the case. Every other componens (CPU, Ram, Power supply) get affected by the heat that this card introduces in the case.

I am also thinking on moving to a new mobo+cpu with watercooling, but no sense if the graphic card make so much noise.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> Can anybody tell me if there is any good way to change the refrigeration of this card to make it with water?
> 
> I am not happy at all with the high noise when I play a game, I can not stand it unless I wear headphones. If there is no easy way to reduce the noise I am thinking on give it back to Amazon and buy another with water cooling (maybe the 1080 TI Waterforce, I don't know). Do you think it is a good idea?


Any air cooled 1080 TI is going to make at least _some_ noise given the nature of the card. If you're really sensitive to noise, water cooling is the only way to eliminate this noise under load. The Aorus card is pretty decent noise wise though - have you tried using afterburner to limit max fan rpm? What was your last card that it was so much quieter?


----------



## Hl86

Just overclocked my watercooled aorus 1080 ti.
+60 on core.
+950 on memory.

Timespy
Graphics Score
10 512


----------



## MaKeN

Wow thats big on memory there ... i can only go up to 730...
Any bios flashed?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hl86*
> 
> Just overclocked my watercooled aorus 1080 ti.
> +60 on core.
> +950 on memory.
> 
> Timespy
> Graphics Score
> 10 512


How long did you spend walking up the memory speed? I've found over about +500 I get reduced performance even though clocks are stable.


----------



## MaKeN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> How long did you spend walking up the memory speed? I've found over about +500 I get reduced performance even though clocks are stable.


You get lower bench scores with more than +500?


----------



## Hl86

My benchscores went down over 950 mhz


----------



## MaKeN

For me it will simply freeze after 750


----------



## mouacyk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *outofmyheadyo*
> 
> Can any of you MSI 1080ti Seahawk EK X owners tell me if this card hits the power limit like the founders cards, or is it worth buying ?
> Just returned my MSI 1080 Seahawk EK X back to amazon, because of horrendous coilwhine.


The default BIOS does, depending on game load. Lucky so far to not have any whine on mine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Its just the gaming X with a water block. Decent card. I'm pretty sure it has a higher power limit available, but Google shows that limit is only 330W.
> 
> The Aorus has a limit of 375W and beefier VRMs. If you're going for full throttle it's a better option. That said I can't get my Aorus over 330W (usually hovers around 305-315).


The Asus XOC BIOS will eliminate ALL power limits. It works especially well with the MSI Gaming X.


----------



## b4thman

I am going to buy a water cooled solution of this card, and I can see there are two different options, with AIO and without it (to use a home-made liquid refrigeration I guess) . What can you recomend me?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> I am going to buy a water cooled solution of this card, and I can see there are two different options, with AIO and without it (to use a home-made liquid refrigeration I guess) . What can you recomend me?


The full cover version runs a lot cooler than the AIO version. You need to have a loop to add it to though so if you're not already on a custom loop it will cost more.


----------



## b4thman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The full cover version runs a lot cooler than the AIO version. You need to have a loop to add it to though so if you're not already on a custom loop it will cost more.


I have zero experience with watercooling. I want to do it with gpu and cpu, and no idea if there is in the market any good "water cooling system" prepared to cool both of them with the same radiator.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b4thman*
> 
> I have zero experience with watercooling. I want to do it with gpu and cpu, and no idea if there is in the market any good "water cooling system" prepared to cool both of them with the same radiator.


You mean a kit? That depends on your CPU.

A 360mm kit with a cpu block plus the gigabyte card with a full cover block should work fine with a few extra fittings and some extra tubing. If you want earth shattering temps or really low RPMs then a second radiator would help.

You might do better starting from scratch and picking parts individually. It's a lot of fun.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mouacyk*
> 
> The Asus XOC BIOS will eliminate ALL power limits. It works especially well with the MSI Gaming X.


Interesting, can this be useful with Xtreme cards on air?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Interesting, can this be useful with Xtreme cards on air?


I don't recommend you try it. On full cover 375W gets people into 45-50C on some loops. Going over 375 on air with no temp throttling isn't advisable.


----------



## Prometheus6987

Hey all,
I was thinking of buying this card (the waterforce version) and, since I plan to either swap or paint the back plate, I was wondering if someone could tell me the thickness needed for the thermal pads

will 1mm suffice?

And what about the front? should I go with over than 2mm? for Vrams and Vrms?

thanks


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prometheus6987*
> 
> Hey all,
> I was thinking of buying this card (the waterforce version) and, since I plan to either swap or paint the back plate, I was wondering if someone could tell me the thickness needed for the thermal pads
> 
> will 1mm suffice?
> 
> And what about the front? should I go with over than 2mm? for Vrams and Vrms?
> 
> thanks


I can't tell how thick the pads are on mine. They struck me as somewhat thick, so there could be sone 1.2-1.5 ish gaps.

Why not just reuse the pads it comes with?


----------



## Prometheus6987

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I can't tell how thick the pads are on mine. They struck me as somewhat thick, so there could be sone 1.2-1.5 ish gaps.
> 
> Why not just reuse the pads it comes with?


Yep my plan is to reuse the thermal pads, I just wanted to know beforehand what is the thickness in order to have few to spare in case the thermal pads provided are faulty or if they break when I'll swap the backplate and stock TIM







.


----------



## joseness

Hi all,

I've just built my rig, with a couple of Aorus1080 ti WB, but I'm finding an interesting problem.
There are two independent water loops in the pc, one for the CPU and other for the GPUs. Currently all fans for the rads are plugged in to the mother board, and therefore controlled by the CPU temp.
As the processor is a Thread ripper with 16 cores, when playing it never really heats up, making the loops go at really low speed while the graphics card could use some extra air.

The GPU loop fans should be controlled based on the GPU temps, not based on CPU. Gigabyte tells me (in a support ticket) that there's no fan control, but I see the board is exactly the same as the air cooled version, and they have made room to be able to insert a 4pin that looks like the GPU fan control. You can even see that they made the acrylic in the shape to have space for that connector.



What guys do you think? is it worth trying? all the fans are powered by a 5V molex, so I would be only using it for the speed control. Is there any way to determine what for is that pin? Do i take any risk by trying?

Thanks in advance.
JL


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joseness*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> I've just built my rig, with a couple of Aorus1080 ti WB, but I'm finding an interesting problem.
> There are two independent water loops in the pc, one for the CPU and other for the GPUs. Currently all fans for the rads are plugged in to the mother board, and therefore controlled by the CPU temp.
> As the processor is a Thread ripper with 16 cores, when playing it never really heats up, making the loops go at really low speed while the graphics card could use some extra air.
> 
> The GPU loop fans should be controlled based on the GPU temps, not based on CPU. Gigabyte tells me (in a support ticket) that there's no fan control, but I see the board is exactly the same as the air cooled version, and they have made room to be able to insert a 4pin that looks like the GPU fan control. You can even see that they made the acrylic in the shape to have space for that connector.
> 
> 
> 
> What guys do you think? is it worth trying? all the fans are powered by a 5V molex, so I would be only using it for the speed control. Is there any way to determine what for is that pin? Do i take any risk by trying?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> JL


Phobya makes an adapter for just that purpose. I'm pretty sure there is fan control as it's an option in afterburner, just one that doesn't do anything because there's no fan connected.

You could also just do a serial loop. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised - you should see extra performance. My quad 1080 TI rig loves being in series with my 1920X.


----------



## stbdudu

It´s a 4 pin fan connector, just as you said.
The fourth outer pin is the PWM pin, which should deliver the PWM signal to control the fan speed.
To find out, on which side of the connector it is located, click here.

Now you just have to connect the PWM-wire to the female pin at the 4 pin fan connector. In case your fan is a 12V PWM fan, you should use 12V instead lowered 5V. The PWM will control the fan now, in case there is a PWM signal sent out by the card.

From my point of view, you can´t damage anything, as long as you do not shortcut anything or put external current to the 4 pin connector of the card. Just make sure not to interchange any pin. Take your time!


----------



## tntcannon5000

HI, i have reently built my new pc, with this 1080 Ti aorus extreme. i was curious to know wether my OC is good or not for my card: 
With this, i can hold 2100Mhz stable in Heaven Benchmark, and most games. What i wanted to know, is if my memory clock is bad or not. at +400Mhz, it holds stable in most games, but under a stress test, i do see the occasional bit of artifacting. Should i be concerned that my memory clocks are too low? or will it not make much of a difference? should i drop down on the memory clock even further? ive seen othe cards like mine (aorus extreme) hold up to +600Mhz on the memory stable.
Id really sppreciate some help


----------



## Valter84

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tntcannon5000*
> 
> HI, i have reently built my new pc, with this 1080 Ti aorus extreme. i was curious to know wether my OC is good or not for my card:
> With this, i can hold 2100Mhz stable in Heaven Benchmark, and most games. What i wanted to know, is if my memory clock is bad or not. at +400Mhz, it holds stable in most games, but under a stress test, i do see the occasional bit of artifacting. Should i be concerned that my memory clocks are too low? or will it not make much of a difference? should i drop down on the memory clock even further? ive seen othe cards like mine (aorus extreme) hold up to +600Mhz on the memory stable.
> Id really sppreciate some help


I would say that results are great.
I also have the same gpu and can`t get those results.

What I say that what makes some diference is the resolution you use.

I am running connected to my tv @ 4k.
I am able to run heaven and 3dmark timespy with +52 and +400.

But if I run multiple times 3dmark with will start failing and I also get some errors playing pubg.

So for now, I am using +46 and +380.

I don`t use voltage increment.

Best regards.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tntcannon5000*
> 
> HI, i have reently built my new pc, with this 1080 Ti aorus extreme. i was curious to know wether my OC is good or not for my card:
> With this, i can hold 2100Mhz stable in Heaven Benchmark, and most games. What i wanted to know, is if my memory clock is bad or not. at +400Mhz, it holds stable in most games, but under a stress test, i do see the occasional bit of artifacting. Should i be concerned that my memory clocks are too low? or will it not make much of a difference? should i drop down on the memory clock even further? ive seen othe cards like mine (aorus extreme) hold up to +600Mhz on the memory stable.
> Id really sppreciate some help


That's a good card!

As far as the memory, +400 is very respectable. Some of the +600 examples youv'e seen may actually be slower than your +400 if the person doing the overclocking didn't check for degraded performance with GDDR5X error correction. Enjoy your card!


----------



## jumpycarogna

Hi all!
Last week I got my 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition and I have some questions, please help me.
When running 3DMark or playing games, core clock never sits on a stable speed, 1800 to 1900Mhz with temp being around 70 celsius. Only when on heavy load cards reaches around 2000Mhz but soon after goes down to 1800-1900Mhz. Now isn't my card supposed to get a stable speed? Overall performance is not bad, my 3DMark Extreme result is good when compared to reviews I checked on internet. Besides, with AB, when I slide to max both core voltage and power limit, card will sit to stable 2000Mhz but 3DMark will fail most of the times. I don't have stability issues when running Aorus Graphics Engine with OC profile, even though 3DMark score is lower than AB with stock values.
My questions are: can my card be considered stable even if core speed never sits on the same values? Will this card last long enough given the fact that I cannot oc it at all? Checked the bios: F60 is displayed on Aorus Engine while 86.02.39.00.9e is displayed on AB. Also, if you have any suggestion for increasing core clock stability would be very appreciated . Thank you!

Edit: with an aggressive fan profile, voltage to 70 and power to 130 I can get stable 2038 with temp maxing at 65 during intense gaming. But card throttles as soon I touch core clock. I'll try to work on core curve and see if I can get lower temps.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tntcannon5000*
> 
> HI, i have reently built my new pc, with this 1080 Ti aorus extreme. i was curious to know wether my OC is good or not for my card:
> With this, i can hold 2100Mhz stable in Heaven Benchmark, and most games. What i wanted to know, is if my memory clock is bad or not. at +400Mhz, it holds stable in most games, but under a stress test, i do see the occasional bit of artifacting. Should i be concerned that my memory clocks are too low? or will it not make much of a difference? should i drop down on the memory clock even further? ive seen othe cards like mine (aorus extreme) hold up to +600Mhz on the memory stable.
> Id really sppreciate some help




Thats mine, and I suggest even not to OC Core Voltage as I think your get away not doing it.


----------



## Kerry000

Just joined up to thank you guys for all of your advice in this forum. Helped a lot. Got an extra 8 FPS out of my Ti with a modest clock combined with an aggressive fan profile. I doubt I'll ever need it since I only have a 2560x1440 monitor, but it's nice to know it's there if I'm ever short a few frames during a play session.

Also, I thought you might like to see the stand I made to take some of this card's heavy weight off the mobo:


----------



## jumpycarogna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerry000*
> 
> Just joined up to thank you guys for all of your advice in this forum. Helped a lot. Got an extra 8 FPS out of my Ti with a modest clock combined with an aggressive fan profile. I doubt I'll ever need it since I only have a 2560x1440 monitor, but it's nice to know it's there if I'm ever short a few frames during a play session.
> 
> Also, I thought you might like to see the stand I made to take some of this card's heavy weight off the mobo:


Nice one! Btw where's the psu?








Could you also share voltage and bios version? Thank you!


----------



## Kerry000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpycarogna*
> 
> Nice one! Btw where's the psu?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could you also share voltage and bios version? Thank you!


Hi jumpycarogna,

The PSU sits in its own partition at the bottom of the case (that perforated area that the GPU power cables lead into).

BIOS version is 86.02.39.00.9e. It's labelled as "F3P" at the Gigabyte download site. I could not find the "F4 Beta" bios you guys referred to.

I did not touch the voltage. Left it locked. Just upped the power limit to 150% and raised the core and memory multipliers by +37 and +300 respectively, then applied a steep fan curve. Went from an average FPS of 106.78 up to an average of 114.6 at 2560x1440 in Superposition benchmarks. Similar FPS jumps in min and max frames.

Edit: During benchmarking, core starts at 2072, then settles at 2050 with temp hitting 59 degrees max. That's with the case panels off. It hits 61 degrees with the panels on.


----------



## jumpycarogna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerry000*
> 
> Hi jumpycarogna,
> 
> The PSU sits in its own partition at the bottom of the case (that perforated area that the GPU power cables lead into).
> 
> BIOS version is 86.02.39.00.9e. It's labelled as "F3P" at the Gigabyte download site. I could not find the "F4 Beta" bios you guys referred to.
> 
> I did not touch the voltage. Left it locked. Just upped the power limit to 150% and raised the core and memory multipliers by +37 and +300 respectively, then applied a steep fan curve. Went from an average FPS of 106.78 up to an average of 114.6 at 2560x1440 in Superposition benchmarks. Similar FPS jumps in min and max frames.
> 
> Edit: During benchmarking, core starts at 2072, then settles at 2050 with temp hitting 59 degrees max. That's with the case panels off. It hits 61 degrees with the panels on.


Hi Kerry000,

That is really a good solution: that fan sitting on the bottom of gpu will help take out heat from psu, right?
F4 Beta bios is former name for F3P bios, they are the same thing. I asked you because F3 bios is supposed to boost perf over temp, while F3P will work the opposite. I wasn't very lucky: my gpu won't accept any overclock, I just can tweak core voltage to 70 and power limit to 130, cannot even max them out because 3dmark will return error. With these teaks can get stable 2025Mhz, temps will top around 65c (fan at 80%) but core voltage is at 1.074, pretty close to limit. So I was wondering if I could gain more performance by switching to F3 (I have F3P as well). When I have time I will try the voltage curve with AB and see if I can lower voltage without losing performance. You enjoy your card, I may try switch bios to see if I can get a beat more from mine even though I am quite happy thanks to Nvidia boost 3.0.


----------



## Kerry000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpycarogna*
> 
> Hi Kerry000,
> 
> That is really a good solution: that fan sitting on the bottom of gpu will help take out heat from psu, right?
> F4 Beta bios is former name for F3P bios, they are the same thing. I asked you because F3 bios is supposed to boost perf over temp, while F3P will work the opposite. I wasn't very lucky: my gpu won't accept any overclock, I just can tweak core voltage to 70 and power limit to 130, cannot even max them out because 3dmark will return error. With these teaks can get stable 2025Mhz, temps will top around 65c (fan at 80%) but core voltage is at 1.074, pretty close to limit. So I was wondering if I could gain more performance by switching to F3 (I have F3P as well). When I have time I will try the voltage curve with AB and see if I can lower voltage without losing performance. You enjoy your card, I may try switch bios to see if I can get a beat more from mine even though I am quite happy thanks to Nvidia boost 3.0.


I didn't really play around too much with overclocking because, as mentioned, I only use a 2K resolution anyway and a 1080Ti is already overkill. I didn't try 3DMark, only Superposition. I was surprised with the FPS gain over such a modest overclock, but the fan/coil noise kinda negates that boost. It's not overly loud, but it is a bit annoying.
I wasn't aware of the F4/F3P name changes. My card came with F3P installed, so I just left it alone.

Today I took the card apart and replaced the thermal paste over the core. I can't get Thermal Grizzly where I live, so I used Cooler Master MasterGel instead. Applied a really thin layer (spread method) and didn't touch the thermal padding anywhere else. Anyway, the idle temp seems way lower now (less 5 degrees C), but I haven't noticed any improvement at all under load.

The 70mm fan below my GPU is actually meant to dissipate heat from a heatsink I attached to an M.2 drive there. I only use the bottom slot for my NVMe because the top one gets all the heat off the GPU while the middle one is trapped behind the GPU (with each adding heat to the other). I should mention that I live in a very hot area and don't have AC, so heat is always an issue for me.

Good luck with your continued effort at finding a suitable setting for your card. Are you using it for 4K? Also, will you post your results after trying it out with F3 bios and/or your altered voltage curve?


----------



## lavke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lavke*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I'm having hard time figuring out what is happening when overclocking my Aorus GTX 1080 Ti (non-Xtreme). I'm getting power limited even with PL 150%/375 W (F3P BIOS) and forcing only 0.950 V to my card. Also when polling with NVSMI I can never get above 300 W power draw. F3 BIOS, fresh drivers, maximum performance in NVCP/Windows made no difference.
> 
> Is this supposed to be normal? For what its worth I can run it 1974 MHz constant with 0.950 V, still seems very odd to me. Something physically limiting?


Update to my own problem if anyone else in is having similar symptoms: got new card after 5 weeks of waiting and original power limit issue is gone. Now I can get up to hard limit 1,0930 V and not get power limited.


----------



## AA junkie

I am trying to lower the temps(around 80C) of my Aorus.
This is my case :



What you don't see, is a Creative sound card I added in the pcie slot just down of the Aorus.
I have two intake and one exhaust fan, and I now ordered another one 14mm fan.
I plan to put back the HDD cage.
That will limit the airflow of the down intake fan, but it will permit me to add the new fan in the bottom of the case and blow some air to the vga.
Another thought is to place the fan in the backplate of the Aorus, but I don't think that there is the needed space betwen cpu cooler and vga.
I will appreciate your thoughts and ideas.


----------



## Kerry000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> I am trying to lower the temps(around 80C) of my Aorus.
> This is my case :
> 
> What you don't see, is a Creative sound card I added in the pcie slot just down of the Aorus.
> I have two intake and one exhaust fan, and I now ordered another one 14mm fan.
> I plan to put back the HDD cage.
> That will limit the airflow of the down intake fan, but it will permit me to add the new fan in the bottom of the case and blow some air to the vga.
> Another thought is to place the fan in the backplate of the Aorus, but I don't think that there is the needed space betwen cpu cooler and vga.
> I will appreciate your thoughts and ideas.


Hi AA Junkie. Another user (I can't remember who) says he reduced his load temps by 10 degrees C by replacing the cheap thermal paste of the card with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught. I replaced my own thermal paste too, but I couldn't get any as high quality as Grizzly (I used a Cooler Master variant). I ended up with much lower idle temps (I have no idea why that should have made a difference to idle temps, but it got at least 5 degrees C cooler for some reason). I saw absolutely no difference in temps under load though.

EDIT: That user (and I) only replaced the thermal paste over the core. Didn't touch the thermal pads everywhere else. They're really thick, so you need a thick alternative.


----------



## AA junkie

I don't feel confident to change the thermal paste of the card.
So I am limited to fan strategy/case setup solutions.


----------



## xTmDarren

Love my gigabyte aorus 1080ti wb so far! Here it is installed in my thermaltake p5 with all RGB lights including the fittings.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> I am trying to lower the temps(around 80C) of my Aorus.
> This is my case :
> 
> 
> 
> What you don't see, is a Creative sound card I added in the pcie slot just down of the Aorus.
> I have two intake and one exhaust fan, and I now ordered another one 14mm fan.
> I plan to put back the HDD cage.
> That will limit the airflow of the down intake fan, but it will permit me to add the new fan in the bottom of the case and blow some air to the vga.
> Another thought is to place the fan in the backplate of the Aorus, but I don't think that there is the needed space betwen cpu cooler and vga.
> I will appreciate your thoughts and ideas.


I am kind of surprised your reporting 80c for your GPU ? so I assume your getting heavy down throttling because of it.

I have a very similar set up, even down to my X-FI sound card sitting below my GPU as you describe.

I have an fan in-take at front, out-take top and back and my system as in GPU doesn't exceed 70c. Ambient room temperature doesn't exceed 21c and my fan curve stops the card going over 70c as its Over-clocked of course and I do not want it throttling.


----------



## AA junkie

The gpu is performing more than well and surprisingly I have no throttling.
With the card stock, the gpu heats 80c and the clock seats at 1936mhz in some games.
In other games the clock goes up and down but not depending on temperature, but on the application.
Today I was making some tests with +46 on the core and +380 on the memory.
I started the superposition benchmark at 2012mhz and then the clocked seated at 1961mhz till the conclusion of the benchmark.
The card reached 85c.

But no matter the good performance, my temps are high and since the addition of the Aorus I have an increment of 5 - 10 degrees even in the cpu so I must drop these temps.


----------



## Jayombie

*AA junkie*

"I started the superposition benchmark at 2012mhz and then the clocked seated at 1961mhz till the conclusion of the benchmark. The card reached 85c."

If it starts at 2012Mhz then drops to 1961Mhz during a stress test isn't that then down throttling ?


----------



## AA junkie

Yes it is

But I wanted to point out that is not the 'heavy down throttling' you mentioned, and that my high temps concerns are not performance related.
Coming from AMD side I am new to this gpu boost feature, but I guess that the card can also throttle due to power draw or voltage limit.
1936mhz is the max core clock when I have my card stock.
When I play for example Fallout 4 the clock remains at 1936 no matter if I have 70C or 80C.
I want to say that temp is not the only throttling cause.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> The gpu is performing more than well and surprisingly I have no throttling.
> With the card stock, the gpu heats 80c and the clock seats at 1936mhz in some games.
> In other games the clock goes up and down but not depending on temperature, but on the application.
> Today I was making some tests with +46 on the core and +380 on the memory.
> I started the superposition benchmark at 2012mhz and then the clocked seated at 1961mhz till the conclusion of the benchmark.
> The card reached 85c.
> 
> But no matter the good performance, my temps are high and since the addition of the Aorus I have an increment of 5 - 10 degrees even in the cpu so I must drop these temps.


Why can't you do a re-paste? That's a free 2-5C.

Not sure about the rest of the case but if the CPU is getting hotter that points to inadequate airflow.


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayombie*
> 
> *AA junkie*
> 
> "I started the superposition benchmark at 2012mhz and then the clocked seated at 1961mhz till the conclusion of the benchmark. The card reached 85c."
> 
> If it starts at 2012Mhz then drops to 1961Mhz during a stress test isn't that then down throttling ?


Nope because that is not how GPU boost works.

The GPU Boost 3.0 is a non-guaranteed overclock bonus speed above the stock speeds + conventional Boost 2.0 speeds.

Basically, you start with the base clockspeed, if you have the work headroom then it will boost to 2.0 speeds. Then if you have no performance limitations (e.g. Voltage, power, heat etc) it will auto overclock and boost to 3.0.

However, the 3.0 Algorithm begins at 30C and drops bins from the maximum possible boost for every 5C increased. So it's not really throttling per-se because 1983mhz is still waaaay above the stock + boost 2.0. You were never meant to be guaranteed any 3.0 speeds all the time because this is ASIC/Cooling/design dependent.

It is only considered to be throttling if you cannot run at the 2.0 boost speed as that is advertised on the box.


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Why can't you do a re-paste? That's a free 2-5C.


Re-pasting is the best option.
But as I said I don't feel confident that I can make job.
The only vga I disassembled and re-pasted was a 6600gt with a basic cooler 15 year ago.
If I screw things, I am all alone here I live and the only one who can help me is a hardware shop 200km away.
That means no guarantee, that means troubles that I want to avoid.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Not sure about the rest of the case but if the CPU is getting hotter that points to inadequate airflow.


That' why I am asking your opinions.

With :
- a Noctua NHU14S CPU cooler
- a Fractal Desing Define R case
- two intake 14mm dans(Noctua NFA-14pwm+Fr.Design stock) and one exhaust 14mm fan(Fr.Design stock)
- an Aorus gpu that is known for it's good cooling system
- good cable management

I can't find the weak link.
I have 70C on my(non delidded) stock i7 7700k and 80C on my stock Aorus 1080ti during gaming.(room temp 20C - 22C)
Temps are on the safe side and are not causing me any problems.
But they can be better.(?)


----------



## jumpycarogna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kerry000*
> 
> I didn't really play around too much with overclocking because, as mentioned, I only use a 2K resolution anyway and a 1080Ti is already overkill. I didn't try 3DMark, only Superposition. I was surprised with the FPS gain over such a modest overclock, but the fan/coil noise kinda negates that boost. It's not overly loud, but it is a bit annoying.
> I wasn't aware of the F4/F3P name changes. My card came with F3P installed, so I just left it alone.
> 
> Today I took the card apart and replaced the thermal paste over the core. I can't get Thermal Grizzly where I live, so I used Cooler Master MasterGel instead. Applied a really thin layer (spread method) and didn't touch the thermal padding anywhere else. Anyway, the idle temp seems way lower now (less 5 degrees C), but I haven't noticed any improvement at all under load.
> 
> The 70mm fan below my GPU is actually meant to dissipate heat from a heatsink I attached to an M.2 drive there. I only use the bottom slot for my NVMe because the top one gets all the heat off the GPU while the middle one is trapped behind the GPU (with each adding heat to the other). I should mention that I live in a very hot area and don't have AC, so heat is always an issue for me.
> 
> Good luck with your continued effort at finding a suitable setting for your card. Are you using it for 4K? Also, will you post your results after trying it out with F3 bios and/or your altered voltage curve?


Hi Kerry000, sorry for the late reply. Tried to swap bios but I couldn't notice any improvement. Indeed card was a bit more unstable so I got back to F3P. And I just decided to give up with pumping power limit and core voltage up because of fan noise.
I never applied thermal paste on gpu, but I'm pretty sure these beasts already run very cool, next step would be water-cooling to keep temp under 50c and get even more performance.
Anyways, I got a 1440p g-sync monitor and I think these cards are best for 2K resolution: max settings at 80FPS (average, depending on games) is the sweet spot for me. 4K would require to turn down settings so I'll hold until Volta is out and if it is good as expected maybe I'll switch to 4K.


----------



## jumpycarogna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Re-pasting is the best option.
> But as I said I don't feel confident that I can make job.
> The only vga I disassembled and re-pasted was a 6600gt with a basic cooler 15 year ago.
> If I screw things, I am all alone here I live and the only one who can help me is a hardware shop 200km away.
> That means no guarantee, that means troubles that I want to avoid.
> That' why I am asking your opinions.
> 
> With :
> - a Noctua NHU14S CPU cooler
> - a Fractal Desing Define R case
> - two intake 14mm dans(Noctua NFA-14pwm+Fr.Design stock) and one exhaust 14mm fan(Fr.Design stock)
> - an Aorus gpu that is known for it's good cooling system
> - good cable management
> 
> I can't find the weak link.
> I have 70C on my(non delidded) stock i7 7700k and 80C on my stock Aorus 1080ti during gaming.(room temp 20C - 22C)
> Temps are on the safe side and are not causing me any problems.
> But they can be better.(?)


Hi AA junkie, did you check fan speed? By default, card runs very quite but you could try to force them according to the temperature. I used to run at 70c, but by turning fan to 60-70% card sits at 65c. Look at your target temperature and I'm pretty sure card will not improve fan speed until you don't reach that temp.


----------



## joseness

Humm, I tried to connect the fan to that header, but it did not work, both in fans without extra power, and fans that have the 5V from other source and it did not worked. In gigabyte they replied that is for Led control and I quoute here
Quote:


> Update:
> 
> After confirmed, J521 connetor is LED pin, not for control water flow / pump speed.


Are you sure is for that purpose? I tried to use the aorus control that have a slider for fans (but blocked) and MSI after burner, none of them move the fan at all. The cable that I used is this one: http://gelidsolutions.com/thermal-solutions/accessories-pwm-fan-adaptor/

any Ideas?


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jumpycarogna*
> 
> Hi AA junkie, did you check fan speed? By default, card runs very quite but you could try to force them according to the temperature. I used to run at 70c, but by turning fan to 60-70% card sits at 65c. Look at your target temperature and I'm pretty sure card will not improve fan speed until you don't reach that temp.


When I bought the card I remember trying various aggresive fan curves, even setting the fan at 100%, didn't helped.
As I haven't tried after the removal of the hdd cage+the adition of the second intake fan and thanks to your post, I made a quick test.

Project Cars 2, 4k, Ultra, MSAA high
Gpu at default clocks

*Default* fan profile : *79C*(71% fan speed)

Setting the fan at *80%* : *77C*(I show even 78C only once and for an instance)

So strangely the fan speed doesn't help.
When I find some time I will make some tests even with fan at 100% but I am not optimistic about the results.


----------



## jumpycarogna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> When I bought the card I remember trying various aggresive fan curves, even setting the fan at 100%, didn't helped.
> As I haven't tried after the removal of the hdd cage+the adition of the second intake fan and thanks to your post, I made a quick test.
> 
> Project Cars 2, 4k, Ultra, MSAA high
> Gpu at default clocks
> 
> *Default* fan profile : *79C*(71% fan speed)
> 
> Setting the fan at *80%* : *77C*(I show even 78C only once and for an instance)
> 
> So strangely the fan speed doesn't help.
> When I find some time I will make some tests even with fan at 100% but I am not optimistic about the results.


Fans should definitely help, really weird. Those temps are nothing you have to worry, but they are a bit high though.
First, test with case open, if temps are lower by about 10c then you have a bad flow issue. At the same time check if all the three fans are spinning correctly.
Before that, just be sure to uninstall Aorus Graphics Engine and run only Afterburner, they collide if used together.
You say your cpu tem is higher as well, then I suggest to check if your cpu is bottlenecking the card (check cpu load).
In the end it could be just a cooling paste issue, so I would definitely give it a try at last. I never did it but you can have a look at a few tutorials.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> When I bought the card I remember trying various aggresive fan curves, even setting the fan at 100%, didn't helped.
> As I haven't tried after the removal of the hdd cage+the adition of the second intake fan and thanks to your post, I made a quick test.
> 
> Project Cars 2, 4k, Ultra, MSAA high
> Gpu at default clocks
> 
> *Default* fan profile : *79C*(71% fan speed)
> 
> Setting the fan at *80%* : *77C*(I show even 78C only once and for an instance)
> 
> So strangely the fan speed doesn't help.
> When I find some time I will make some tests even with fan at 100% but I am not optimistic about the results.


As others have mentioned trying with the side panel off can show you if the issue is not enough airflow in the case.

Are your case fans all on different PWM headers on your motherboard? You might try setting a more aggressive fan profile on your case fans and tying them to CPU temp. If they are ramping up and down based on VRM temp, if the VRMS aren't getting warm enough they may not be ramping up to ventilate the case.


----------



## Supelp12

AA Junky: let me post my settings details and hopefully it helps .


My room temp is around 29c.
Grizzly kryonaut drop temp 5c to 6c
Removing the front fan grill drop temp 3c to 4c
Adding the heatsink and fan to the back of the gpu drop 1c to 2c.
My mobo has 2 thermistor. I had one position outside the case to read ambient temp. The other is attached to gpu heatsink to read gpu temp. All my 6 case fans is connected to the mobo pwm header tag to the second thermistor. I'm other words my case fans will approximately track the gpu temp. All fans has fan shroud added( the intake has 2 added).
My cpu fan is set to exhaust with a slightly aggressive custom curve which is still very quiet. The back fan is set to exhaust effectively creating 3 exhaust and 4 intake. To minimize airflow disruption, the bottom intake fan has a low noise adapter while the front intake is use direct. The pwm fan profile on the mobo is all set to performance mode. Notice where I place the hdd.
The gpu use custom fan profile with speed capped at max 80% which I find to be very quiet when fully loaded.

My temp now after extended sessions will peak between 67c to 69c. Ambient temp between 29c to 30c.
I am using custom voltage curve.


Clock speed stable and settle at between 2063 and 2076. Memory + 500.
Hope these info helps out.


----------



## Zyrou

Hey

I am using 1080 ti xtreme aorus graphic card since launch. My graphic card started buzzing/whizzing past two weeks. Its not buzzing all the time. but sometimes!. What should i do about this? Is Warranty covarage this issue?

I am using my card +50core / 600 memory %125 power temp limit 90 and my custom fan speed.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> Hey
> 
> I am using 1080 ti xtreme aorus graphic card since launch. My graphic card started buzzing/whizzing past two weeks. Its not buzzing all the time. but sometimes!. What should i do about this? Is Warranty covarage this issue?
> 
> I am using my card +50core / 600 memory %125 power temp limit 90 and my custom fan speed.


Sounds like coil whine. Have you changed the games you play or the software you run recently? Coil whine sometimes happens under extremely heavy load. It's not something to worry a lot about.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Sounds like coil whine. Have you changed the games you play or the software you run recently? Coil whine sometimes happens under extremely heavy load. It's not something to worry a lot about.


I was playing Pubg all the time but atm Destiny 2. I havent realize when i play pubg because of my headset and all the time action in game. but as i can say it started in past 2-3 weeks.

I only changed software as newer version of msi afterburner. Its not buzzing all the time. still coil whine? I see some videos that coil whine buzzing all the time.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> I was playing Pubg all the time but atm Destiny 2. I havent realize when i play pubg because of my headset and all the time action in game. but as i can say it started in past 2-3 weeks.
> 
> I only changed software as newer version of msi afterburner. Its not buzzing all the time. still coil whine? I see some videos that coil whine buzzing all the time.


Coil whine is often intermittent. Sometimes changing your OC higher or lower helps, and other times it's a power supply issue, but often it just happens with high powered GPUs. What's your GPU power consumption like when this happens?

The culprit may also be afterburner in this case. Try closing it and see what happens.


----------



## d3v0

Mine arrives in the mail today from Massdrop!


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Coil whine is often intermittent. Sometimes changing your OC higher or lower helps, and other times it's a power supply issue, but often it just happens with high powered GPUs. What's your GPU power consumption like when this happens?
> 
> The culprit may also be afterburner in this case. Try closing it and see what happens.


how can i understand what cause this issue ? power supply or not? when coil whine happens sometime i was playing game sometimes just idle watching some things. no exact time for that.









Power consumption on hwinfo ? how much watt it takes right?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> how can i understand what cause this issue ? power supply or not? when coil whine happens sometime i was playing game sometimes just idle watching some things. no exact time for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power consumption on hwinfo ? how much watt it takes right?


Hwinfo and afterburner both will show you power consumption. The idea being if the noise only happens under high power consumption or if it happens under low loads.

Power supply is easy to rule out. What power supply do you have and how heavily is it loaded.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Hwinfo and afterburner both will show you power consumption. The idea being if the noise only happens under high power consumption or if it happens under low loads.
> 
> Power supply is easy to rule out. What power supply do you have and how heavily is it loaded.


as i saw it before it happend on idle too. I am using my fans atleast 1100rpm non stop.

I have corsair rmx 850watt power supply

i will check power consumption as soon as possible to tell you


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> as i saw it before it happend on idle too. I am using my fans atleast 1100rpm non stop.
> 
> I have corsair rmx 850watt power supply
> 
> i will check power consumption as soon as possible to tell you[/quote
> 
> Unless you're on a heavily over clocked threadripper or i9 that's more then enough power supply (and a good unit) as long as you are using two separate cables to feed the card.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> as i saw it before it happend on idle too. I am using my fans atleast 1100rpm non stop.
> 
> I have corsair rmx 850watt power supply
> 
> i will check power consumption as soon as possible to tell you[/quote
> 
> Unless you're on a heavily over clocked threadripper or i9 that's more then enough power supply (and a good unit) as long as you are using two separate cables to feed the card.
> 
> 
> 
> \
> 
> I am using it with i7 8700k 5ghz overclocked. I think power supply isnot problem. but something wrong with gpu fans.
> 
> I just dont understand it just happend rarely... I am gonna ask gigabyte if warranty cover this problem or not..
Click to expand...


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> \
> 
> I am using it with i7 8700k 5ghz overclocked. I think power supply isnot problem. but something wrong with gpu fans.
> 
> I just dont understand it just happend rarely... I am gonna ask gigabyte if warranty cover this problem or not..


Fans are easy enough to test. Tweak the RPM settings and see if the noise level changes.

You may want to try uninstalling afterburner and running stock clocks too at some point. It still sounds like coil whine.


----------



## AA junkie

Thank you all for your ideas guys.

@Supelp12
you placed the HDD directly(nothing between them) on the psu ?
Is this giving you any issues ?


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> Thank you all for your ideas guys.
> 
> @Supelp12
> you placed the HDD directly(nothing between them) on the psu ?
> Is this giving you any issues ?


The hdd is placed inside the holder meant for the hdd cage. Blu tac is placed at 4 points below to attached to the psu and at the same time creating a gap between hdd and psu top. Hdd temp peak at around 37c.


----------



## d3v0

Nice GPU, time to see about overclocking it now









EDIT:

Oh boy. Overclocking a few generations later has left me in the dust. With all these voltage curves etc, I dont know whats happening. I have the voltage limit set to 100%, power limit 150%, Max Temp 90c. Card stays at 69C at full load.

I followed a guide regarding a custom voltage chart and it constantly crashed. However, it at least forced decent clocks. Whenever I use the +core slider instead of the curve, the clocks go all over. To make it all worse, I can only see the card hitting 1.05v, which seems too low. Not sure how to get it to push to 1.093v which is the max, short of confusing myself with this voltage curve, even more.


----------



## ludkoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> how can i understand what cause this issue ? power supply or not? when coil whine happens sometime i was playing game sometimes just idle watching some things. no exact time for that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Power consumption on hwinfo ? how much watt it takes right?


You should use vsync if your or something like it if your FPS go way above your screan refresh rate.


----------



## shedd

Hey people, I've had the Aorus 1080ti xtreme edition for a few months now.
Recently started fiddling with RGB for my build, I had to use the Aorus Graphics Engine app to control the RGB, but it seems everytime I exit the app and restart the computer or it goes to sleep, it only remembers the color I chose but never remembers the mode (circling/breathing, etc.). The RGB always remains static.
Is there no other way to control the RGB except for the Gigabyte app?


----------



## BIGTom

So I've been having issues with crashes during gaming with my Waterforce 1080Ti lately and I am at a loss on what the issue is.

I've checked the event viewer and it's a strictly a driver crash that we've all seen with unstable clocks. It's running at the stock OC profile with maxed Power Limit and a custom fan curve because otherwise it won't boost and the fan on this AIO unit won't budge past 33%. Temps are running around 50C. It even happens with frame limiting like Vsync.

I've never had a card that was not stable at stock clocks, let alone a card with this kind of cooling.

Any ideas?


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shedd*
> 
> Hey people, I've had the Aorus 1080ti xtreme edition for a few months now.
> Recently started fiddling with RGB for my build, I had to use the Aorus Graphics Engine app to control the RGB, but it seems everytime I exit the app and restart the computer or it goes to sleep, it only remembers the color I chose but never remembers the mode (circling/breathing, etc.). The RGB always remains static.
> Is there no other way to control the RGB except for the Gigabyte app?


Do you have other rgb software installed? Mine conflict with the gigabyte mobo rgb apps


----------



## Dasboogieman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yoitsmegabe*
> 
> Does anyone know if flashing to another card's bios allows you to activate two promotional game codes on one card? My friend wants to activate destiny using my card, but i already redeemed a code on my card.


IIRC it's not tied to the Card BIOS, it's tied to your Geforce Experience account.


----------



## yoitsmegabe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> IIRC it's not tied to the Card BIOS, it's tied to your Geforce Experience account.


There is a hardware check for sure. When I had a 1070 and tried to redeem two Ghost Recon codes GeForce experience knew my card already redeemed a code despite me logging in as my friend. We wound up activating it on another friend's card who wasn't interested in the game that time.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dasboogieman*
> 
> Nope because that is not how GPU boost works.
> 
> The GPU Boost 3.0 is a non-guaranteed overclock bonus speed above the stock speeds + conventional Boost 2.0 speeds.
> 
> Basically, you start with the base clockspeed, if you have the work headroom then it will boost to 2.0 speeds. Then if you have no performance limitations (e.g. Voltage, power, heat etc) it will auto overclock and boost to 3.0.
> 
> However, the 3.0 Algorithm begins at 30C and drops bins from the maximum possible boost for every 5C increased. So it's not really throttling per-se because 1983mhz is still waaaay above the stock + boost 2.0. You were never meant to be guaranteed any 3.0 speeds all the time because this is ASIC/Cooling/design dependent.
> 
> It is only considered to be throttling if you cannot run at the 2.0 boost speed as that is advertised on the box.


Well all I know is that, I have Over Clocked currently to :

Default Clock :1569 MHz
Over Clock : 1634 MHz

Memory : 1376 MHz
Memory Over Clock : 1464 MHz

Boost : 1683MHz
Boost Over Clock : 1748 MHz

When I stress test (With FurMark) maxing out it goes to and stabilises on 2025 MHz Boost and stays there.

As long as my fan curve keeps it from tipping over 70c MHz *it doesn't move*. It doesn't drop a digit at all.

A stabilised test for say 8 mins at 2025MHz without change is what I call a none throttled OC.


----------



## Aavee87

I got my Aorus gtx 1080 ti xtreme edition and games are crashing on default clockspeeds. Best this card do is -20mhz on core and -20mhz on memory. However i can run Heaven 4 with stockclocks. Maybe RMA?

Other specs: Seasonic 660xp2, Maximus x Hero, 8700k coffee lake


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aavee87*
> 
> I got my Aorus gtx 1080 ti xtreme edition and games are crashing on default clockspeeds. Best this card do is -20mhz on core and -20mhz on memory. However i can run Heaven 4 with stockclocks. Maybe RMA?
> 
> Other specs: Seasonic 660xp2, Maximus x Hero, 8700k coffee lake


The card is not functional at default and advertized clocks.
That's definitely an RMA reason.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aavee87*
> 
> I got my Aorus gtx 1080 ti xtreme edition and games are crashing on default clockspeeds. Best this card do is -20mhz on core and -20mhz on memory. However i can run Heaven 4 with stockclocks. Maybe RMA?
> 
> Other specs: Seasonic 660xp2, Maximus x Hero, 8700k coffee lake


Over clocking is a silicon lottery I am afraid. Out of all the Ti cards I have owned this one has been the best for me.
Just lucky.

Just noticed Default....... YES - thats a big no no...
I never keep a card thats advertised at clock speeds and doesn't even function at the default speeds.

Just for note, your PSU can handle this card okay yes ?


----------



## Aavee87

I dont know about the psu, it should be more than enough. What are u guys thinking? Should i buy new PSU 850w?


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aavee87*
> 
> I dont know about the psu, it should be more than enough. What are u guys thinking? Should i buy new PSU 850w?


Hard to judge, its just a possibility.

Maybe try another card whilst your able as its under guarantee. Does it again and you will know its a good possibility it is your PSU. Or try the card if your able in another machine and see what happens.


----------



## Lao Tzu

Hii yesterday i see stranges boxes and rectanguls in screen when gaming, and see directly to temp and the 1080Ti was 90°C!!!, y shut down the game.Dont use Aorus Engine with MSI Afterburner at same time, becose fans can stop and u can burn out yoru chip, xd, god gives me a second oportunity because gtx still resists...i take off a several hs of lives perhaps...


----------



## jumpycarogna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Nice GPU, time to see about overclocking it now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> Oh boy. Overclocking a few generations later has left me in the dust. With all these voltage curves etc, I dont know whats happening. I have the voltage limit set to 100%, power limit 150%, Max Temp 90c. Card stays at 69C at full load.
> 
> I followed a guide regarding a custom voltage chart and it constantly crashed. However, it at least forced decent clocks. Whenever I use the +core slider instead of the curve, the clocks go all over. To make it all worse, I can only see the card hitting 1.05v, which seems too low. Not sure how to get it to push to 1.093v which is the max, short of confusing myself with this voltage curve, even more.


Hi d3v0,

As far as I know, the curve is just an alternative to the slide. If you get good result with slide I won't bother with curve.


----------



## jumpycarogna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BIGTom*
> 
> So I've been having issues with crashes during gaming with my Waterforce 1080Ti lately and I am at a loss on what the issue is.
> 
> I've checked the event viewer and it's a strictly a driver crash that we've all seen with unstable clocks. It's running at the stock OC profile with maxed Power Limit and a custom fan curve because otherwise it won't boost and the fan on this AIO unit won't budge past 33%. Temps are running around 50C. It even happens with frame limiting like Vsync.
> 
> I've never had a card that was not stable at stock clocks, let alone a card with this kind of cooling.
> 
> Any ideas?


Hi BIGTom,

You mention unstable clocks, what do you mean? Also what kind of PSU are you using? I had a similar issue with a 970, it was driving me mad as I couldn't solve the issue. Swapperd with a 980Ti and it went all good for a few months until it happened again. You won't believe it: in the end it was because a 8pin cable wasn't properly conncected to the card, causing it to crash whe power usage was at peak. Just chek your cables, you never know...


----------



## shiningmaple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I'd be happy to help. I just finished my first custom loop using 4 of these (I'm crazy).
> 
> I did a lot of digging and neither EK or Bits power make the block. I bought a bits power bridge I can't use to confirm this, so don't waste your money like I did.
> 
> Since there is no fancy bridge, to connect multiple cards you will need to use adjustable fittings or custom pieces of solid or flexible tube with Normal fittings. I went the adjustable fitting route as it's really nice looking and only costs 5-10 bucks a fitting. Two cards in series will only require a single fitting.
> 
> For fittings, I highly recommend the swiftech adjustable lok seal fittings. They use a locking nut in the middle of the fitting for both the medium and large lengths. They can handke a boat load of abuse without leaking (my setup with 6 of them held solid at 15 psi of pressure - what many radiators are rated at).
> 
> The medium is just the right length to do 2 slot card spacing (really one slot between blocks). The large is probably right for three slot and should handle 4 or 5 slots when extended) I'll take pictures of a spare medium when I get home of you'd like.
> 
> The picture you see here, I assembled all of the cards together outside the case and then dropped them in the PCIE slots, then I tightened the middle lock nuts on the fittings. I used 6 fittings because my blocks are set up in parallel.
> 
> You'll notice the last card doesn't have an Aorus logo. You can remove it with ahobby knife and take the screws that hold the header off. This will allow you to install the cards and piping separately, but if you do, make sure you pressure test with air first. I spent 40 minutes testing and had to re-Mount the header twice before I didn't have any leaks.


What is your compression fittings' ID, OD? Did aurus card's WB's sockets have enough clearance for those fittings?


----------



## Kerry000

Hi all,

I'm not sure if this will be of use to anyone or not, since I'm a novice at overclocking compared to most of you here. I just thought I'd let you know what tweaks have finally got my Aorus 1080Ti at a stable and (relatively) cool overclock giving me a 6 FPS boost in both benchmarking apps and actual gameplay.

The most important thing I learned: Almost ALL of my crashes along the way were coming from an unstable CPU overclock. I had not set my LLC correctly on an 8700k and most of my benchmarking runs in Superposition were crashing. My games were also crashing. I mistakenly assumed this was because I had got a bad 1080Ti in the hardware lottery. Not so; it was due to a botched CPU overclock the whole time!

So, tip number 1: Get your damn CPU overclock properly stable first, because it's an unstable CPU that will be crashing your benchmarks and games long before the GPU does. I finally learned how to set up a stable CPU overclock and tested it thoroughly with both Prime95 and IntelBurn. Lo and behold, no more crashes in my GPU benchmarks and games!

The next thing I did was to ensure that my GPU had the latest BIOS installed. This was version F3P at the time.

I then opened the card up, after reading through this forum, and replaced the crappy generic thermal paste over the core with a thin layer of Thermal Grizzly Kryonaught. This immediately reduced my temps by a few (+/- 5) degrees at idle, but only 1 or 2 degrees under full load. I did not replace any of the thick thermal padding, only the grease over the core.

Note 1: The backplate (that copper X on the other side of the core) only has thermal padding around the core, so there's no need to open it up if you're only changing the paste over the core itself.

Note 2: Don't be intimidated about opening the card and replacing the thermal paste. It's much easier than you think and it's really hard to screw up. There are just a couple of screws to remove, plus 4 fan/LED connectors. It really was quick and simple.

Now that I had a stable CPU overclock, I put some time into learning more about the best way to overclock my GPU...

The curve + voltage offset. I had previously been trying to overclock my card the old way (only dragging sliders) and wasn't getting very far. This time I used Afterburner to first set a semi-aggressive fan profile for my card - from 30/30 up to 100/70 (30% at 30 degrees, up to 100% at 70 degrees).
Next I unlocked the voltage control, and dragged the voltage offset up to 100%.
Power and Temp sliders were then set to maximum (150% and 90 degrees respectively).
I then opened the curve editor (Ctrl + F), held down Ctrl and dragged my curve's final point up to +35.
Finally, I set the memory overclock to +300.

Now I ran Superposition at 2560x1440 for ten passes. Each time the benchmark was stable (not a single crash or hangup) and my core clock stayed at 2062 Mhz the whole time. There was NO throttling down, and no dips at all. It was stable the whole way through and my max temp was 62 degrees celcius. This was something I had never been able to achieve before.

I then tested the card in two games in which I had previously experienced crashes; ECHO and War for the Overworld. Both were running at max settings at 2560x1440, with DSR factor 2.00, plus a bunch of shaders using Reshade. This time there were no crashes and I saw a framerate boost of around 6 to 8 FPS across the board, compared to playing at stock speeds.

For ****s and giggles I then upped my overclock to +60 and +500 to the core and memory respectively, and it quickly locked my system up during a benchmark run! The funny thing is, while it was running, my core clock was still 2062 Mhz. So upping the core clock to that insane level made no real difference to performance.

I'm therefore more than happy with a stable 2062 Mhz and a 6 FPS gain.

Anyway, this info might help someone who, like me, is just a novice hobbyist and mistakenly believes they have a dud card. For me, it all came down to properly ensuring a stable CPU overclock first, then setting my GPU overclock using the core voltage offset and the curve editor.

i7-8700K overclocked to 4.9Ghz + 4.6Ghz Uncore.
Aorus Z370 Gaming 5 mobo.
32Gb 3000Mhz memory.
Aorus 1080Ti GPU.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shiningmaple*
> 
> What is your compression fittings' ID, OD? Did aurus card's WB's sockets have enough clearance for those fittings?


I had to assemble all of the fittings outside the case. They are standard adjustable g1/4 extension fittings from swiftech.

The easiest way to install these is either to put the cards together outside the case or to remove the headers and install the fittings before re installing the headers.

I'm pretty sure I've tracked down acrylic bridges for these cards though. I'll post about that if my aliexpress order ever gets here.


----------



## TheKeeper8901

Hi All,

I am curious about a certain connector on the PCB. It does not have anything plugged into it. (see attached)
Does anybody know its purpose?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheKeeper8901*
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I am curious about a certain connector on the PCB. It does not have anything plugged into it. (see attached)
> Does anybody know its purpose?


That's either a fan or RGB header. It's probably a fan header though.


----------



## MaKeN

I think its a fan header, because on my wb edition i got a conector plugged in the second port... and i guess its for the rgb lights on the block.

I wonder if there exists a an adapter from this conector to a regular rgb, so i can connect a wire to asus mobo for synking it with rest rgbs


----------



## TheKeeper8901

Hmmm okay. So i purchased this adapter which someone had posted on this forum. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EUZD854/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I plugged that into the connector, and then plugged an NZXT FZ-140MM Fan to see if it would work, there was no luck, i was hoping to put a side fan in the side panel of my case to help exhaust the heat from the card directly.

Anyone else have any luck with trying this?

Update: I just realized that the fan i tried was only a 3 pin, i ordered a 4 pin fan to see if that will do the trick, will keep you updated.


----------



## CyberWolf575

I got the Xtreme edition, air cooled. Has anyone replaced the thermal paste on it? I have some Kryonaut paste that I used on my old 390X, it helped that card drop temps by 10-15C at load. Now I don't expect the same temp drops here, but has anyone tried to see if it's much better? My card currently runs at 2025/6150 under full load and doesn't go above 68-69C even after hours of gameplay.


----------



## MaKeN

You will not get big temp drop there mb 3c , your card ia already running cool.
Assuming that theese cards in a custom loop builds run at 40-45 c ,


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CyberWolf575*
> 
> I got the Xtreme edition, air cooled. Has anyone replaced the thermal paste on it? I have some Kryonaut paste that I used on my old 390X, it helped that card drop temps by 10-15C at load. Now I don't expect the same temp drops here, but has anyone tried to see if it's much better? My card currently runs at 2025/6150 under full load and doesn't go above 68-69C even after hours of gameplay.


With the kryonaut, I will get temp drop of about 5c to 6c. With room temp of 30c, temp max at 69c. Clock at 2076 with mem at +500


----------



## Quogie

My set up:

AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edtion
CPU: Kaby Lake core i7 7700k unlocked
Motherboard: Aorus z270x-gaming 7
RAM: Kingston HyperX Fury 16gb DDR4-2666mhz
EVGA superNOVA 750w g2 80+ gold power supply
have a 4k monitor DELL U2718Q

before today was having no problem playing most my games at 60fps 4k, now in Destiny 2 I am getting dips into the 40s alot, same with witcher 3, batman arkham knight is the worse where it no longer does a solid 60fps and normally now in the mid 50s with times dipping into the 30fps, I use Aorus graphic engine normally well running my games in the default OC mode, also using msi afterburner aswell sometimes but get huge fps lose when im not using the aorus graphic engine, my PC is about 2months old, does anyone know what the problem might be?


----------



## TheKeeper8901

I had an issue when i first got my Aorus 1080ti that the performance wasn't as great as it was hyped up to be. Batlefield 1 was running at a staggering 30fps maxed on on a 1440p monitor. I later discovered that my i5-4690 non-K was only running at 800mhz. I had to do a BIOS refresh (set it back to default) to get it back to full working order. This solved my problem. You could check this, i ran Cinebench and that's how i discovered that my processor was only running at 800mhz. I also uninstalled and removed all traces of the Aorus Software as it felt it was really buggy. I changed my RGB colors and that was it. i use MSI afterburner instead for it is the most stable and is very user friendly.


----------



## jimboraver

Hi, hope i'm posting in the right place, I have just bought an aorus 1080ti and am trying to overclock it, now from most things i have read i should increase the power limiter? Mine goes up to 150% but if i increase this percentage at all, as soon as i apply it, it will crash ? even say 105%, something doesnt seem quite right to me...? i'm using msi afterburner as i read the gigabyte software isnt great, but even if i use that i get the same problem. thanks..

Asus hero viii
i7 6700k @4.4ghz
16gb ram
2 samsang ssd's
650w BeQuite powersupply


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimboraver*
> 
> Hi, hope i'm posting in the right place, I have just bought an aorus 1080ti and am trying to overclock it, now from most things i have read i should increase the power limiter? Mine goes up to 150% but if i increase this percentage at all, as soon as i apply it, it will crash ? even say 105%, something doesnt seem quite right to me...? i'm using msi afterburner as i read the gigabyte software isnt great, but even if i use that i get the same problem. thanks


Okay, lets try the basics and go from there.

Make sure you got good airflow, everything else is stable and your PSU is up to scratch,

Power Limit to ...... 150
Temp Limit to ........ 90

Core Clock............. start with +20

Leave Core Voltage alone, memory clock leave until you have tested the Core Clock in an intensive game. Oh try also FURMARK as that can help with OverClocking. But the best test in my opinion is a GPU intensive game as Overclocking is usually all about gaining FPS in games here after all.


----------



## jimboraver

Hi thanks for the reply, I tried what you suggested, but the problem i have is if i change the power limiter at all! it will crash and burn







so thats without increasing core clocks or memory, voltage etc etc.
just thought maybe i should try and update the bios, but on the gigabyte website i seem to have the latest version? F3P 86.02.39.009D


----------



## ScriptKiddie

Hi,

Im wondering, When i bought 1080ti xtreme this card has 2 bios(f3e, f3) and F3E is last.

But now i saw F3P and all introduction same.

Anyone know what is diffrence f3e and f3p ?

By the way where f4 bios ?


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimboraver*
> 
> Hi thanks for the reply, I tried what you suggested, but the problem i have is if i change the power limiter at all! it will crash and burn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so thats without increasing core clocks or memory, voltage etc etc.
> just thought maybe i should try and update the bios, but on the gigabyte website i seem to have the latest version? F3P 86.02.39.009D


Increasing power limit means enabling the GPU to have more power. As its crashing when you increase the Power Limit I am wondering if your system is failing due to PSU.

Its a long shot, as with any PC it could be a wide range of things but the PSU is a critical part of any system and important for Over-Clocking so we may as well start there.

I wonder if the 12v rail is not providing the required amount of volts (maybe). Try and check the output with something like *HWINFO64*

Maybe disconnect any external & internal devices that are not critical and try again.

PS : I have the same Bios.


----------



## celonaman

Okay, I'll be honest and say that I didn't read through all 200+ pages in this forum. But I really need some help. I've had my non-extreme GPU since around July. About a month ago, all of a sudden and out of nowhere, every online game I play I get a crazy amount of stuttering. For example in a game like Rocket League, which maxes FPS at 250, I will see drops from 250 all the way down to 140 and it will just jump all around. I went through the nVidia settings and did the Afterburner curve for clocking that is linked on page one of this forum, but it didn't solve the problem. It's driving me nuts since if it's the card, I can't RMA it (obviously) at this point. I've done some searching around and can see people having this issue, but no one seems to have a clear-cut solution for it. If anyone has anything that could help me out, anything at all, it would be greatly appreciated.

Windows 10 Home
Aorus 1080 TI
i7 7700k
Asus ROG Strix z270 MB
Samsung EVO 960 nVME


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celonaman*
> 
> Okay, I'll be honest and say that I didn't read through all 200+ pages in this forum. But I really need some help. I've had my non-extreme GPU since around July. About a month ago, all of a sudden and out of nowhere, every online game I play I get a crazy amount of stuttering. For example in a game like Rocket League, which maxes FPS at 250, I will see drops from 250 all the way down to 140 and it will just jump all around. I went through the nVidia settings and did the Afterburner curve for clocking that is linked on page one of this forum, but it didn't solve the problem. It's driving me nuts since if it's the card, I can't RMA it (obviously) at this point. I've done some searching around and can see people having this issue, but no one seems to have a clear-cut solution for it. If anyone has anything that could help me out, anything at all, it would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Windows 10 Home
> Aorus 1080 TI
> i7 7700k
> Asus ROG Strix z270 MB
> Samsung EVO 960 nVME


First thing I'd check is are your CPU or GPU temps spiking. If they are you could have dust buildup causing it that just needs to be cleaned.

If it isn't temperature related, the next thing to try is a clean install of your nvidia drivers. If you're using the aorus software, remove it too.


----------



## d3v0

How much OC are you guys getting out of your memory, with decent stability?

Also, if i wanted the light to be a certain color rather than annoyingly change all of the time, do I need to use aorus software? and does that screw with a game like Destiny 2?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> How much OC are you guys getting out of your memory, with decent stability?
> 
> Also, if i wanted the light to be a certain color rather than annoyingly change all of the time, do I need to use aorus software? and does that screw with a game like Destiny 2?


You need the aorus software to set the RGB, and it messes up things. The good news is you only need to use the software to set the RGB, after that the card will retain the settings between restarts and even if you uninstall the aorus software or lose power.


----------



## d3v0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> you only need to use the software to set the RGB, after that the card will retain the settings between restarts and e*ven if you uninstall the aorus software or lose power.*


Thank you!


----------



## Radeczek1993

Hello guys, I need some opinion, please help.
I'm worried about my Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Extreme Edition that I bought a week ago. The temps are very very high when fans are set to zero, card is in idle and the system is in desktop only. Temps reach up to 74C. I've set a fan curve that starts from 75C to se how far it go with no fans here is the ss: 

When I set fans back to auto, then it will cool down to 50C after that fans go off and card reach 55/56C in less than 2 minutes. In the end on the setting "from the box" and with auto fans the temp stays at 55C and the fans will on and off alternately.

What kind off temps do you have when idle? Your fans even starts?
I've read some reviews and there are the info that this card should stay in +/- 45C on idle with fans off. In some reviews I even find lower values.

Should I RMA it or first I should try to repaste it? I don't loose warranty when I take cooler off? I saw that lot off people recommend Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, right?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeczek1993*
> 
> Hello guys, I need some opinion, please help.
> I'm worried about my Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Extreme Edition that I bought a week ago. The temps are very very high when fans are set to zero, card is in idle and the system is in desktop only. Temps reach up to 74C. I've set a fan curve that starts from 75C to se how far it go with no fans here is the ss:
> 
> When I set fans back to auto, then it will cool down to 50C after that fans go off and card reach 55/56C in less than 2 minutes. In the end on the setting "from the box" and with auto fans the temp stays at 55C and the fans will on and off alternately.
> 
> What kind off temps do you have when idle? Your fans even starts?
> I've read some reviews and there are the info that this card should stay in +/- 45C on idle with fans off. In some reviews I even find lower values.
> 
> Should I RMA it or first I should try to repaste it? I don't loose warranty when I take cooler off? I saw that lot off people recommend Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, right?


What is the airflow in your case like? It won't stay cool at idle if the case isn't well ventilated.

The core clock you show there isn't idle either, that's a moderate load. Give us more data so we can advise you better.

You should also avoid removing the cooler.


----------



## Radeczek1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> What is the airflow in your case like? It won't stay cool at idle if the case isn't well ventilated.
> 
> The core clock you show there isn't idle either, that's a moderate load. Give us more data so we can advise you better.
> 
> You should also avoid removing the cooler.


I removed side panel of my case before this test. My case is Corsair Carbide series spec03 with two 120mm fans, one in front and one in the rear. On the CPU (i5-4690k ; 4.4GHz) there is SilentiumPC Fortis3
PSU: bequiet! Pure Power L8-CM-630W.
Yesterday I ordered two bequiet Pure Wings 140mm fans and I will place them on the front, the 120mm fan will be at the top of the case.

What do you mean "moderate load"? In GPU usage there is only one small peak up to 9% in the whole cycle and rest of the time it stay on 0-1%
From the apps running: Google chrome, MSI Afterburner, RivaTuner..., ESET Endpoint antivirus 6.6 and Realtek HD Audio manager, and some system processes, that's all.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeczek1993*
> 
> Hello guys, I need some opinion, please help.
> I'm worried about my Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Extreme Edition that I bought a week ago. The temps are very very high when fans are set to zero, card is in idle and the system is in desktop only. Temps reach up to 74C. I've set a fan curve that starts from 75C to se how far it go with no fans here is the ss:
> 
> When I set fans back to auto, then it will cool down to 50C after that fans go off and card reach 55/56C in less than 2 minutes. In the end on the setting "from the box" and with auto fans the temp stays at 55C and the fans will on and off alternately.
> 
> What kind off temps do you have when idle? Your fans even starts?
> I've read some reviews and there are the info that this card should stay in +/- 45C on idle with fans off. In some reviews I even find lower values.
> 
> Should I RMA it or first I should try to repaste it? I don't loose warranty when I take cooler off? I saw that lot off people recommend Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, right?


For reference, my card sits idle as I type this with no Fan usage... Temp is at this moment 28c

Sounds to me your heat sink isn't sitting right, or there was/is a thermal paste issue during production.


----------



## Radeczek1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayombie*
> 
> For reference, my card sits idle as I type this with no Fan usage... Temp is at this moment 28c
> 
> Sounds to me your heat sink isn't sitting right, or there was/is a thermal paste issue during production.


So I should change paste first or RMA it and don't bother anything? Is it difficult to take the cooler off or do I lose warranty if I do so? I've repasted hundreds off CPU's (I worked as service technician) but never do that with GPU. What paste you guys recommend mostly?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeczek1993*
> 
> So I should change paste first or RMA it and don't bother anything? Is it difficult to take the cooler off or do I lose warranty if I do so? I've repasted hundreds off CPU's (I worked as service technician) but never do that with GPU. What paste you guys recommend mostly?


Gigabyte claims you void the warranty if you email them. Then again as long as you don't tell them and you live in the US they won't know and it isn't legally enforceable.

Replace with something similar if you repaste. No liquid metal or they'll know you touched it. Gelid GC extreme, thermal grizzly kryonaut, or noctua nt-h1 are good choices. My recommendation is the noctua for price/performance and ease of use, or the grizzly for an extra .25-1 degree C.


----------



## MaKeN

I also love noctua... from all the compaunds i used, its most easiest to use and comes on a good price and performance. Ill buy one again after i finish the mx-4 tube


----------



## Valter84

Isn`t MX-4 a good option for repaste?
Used it on my ryzen 7 1700 and I was thinking to also use it to repaste my Aorus 1080 ti Xtreme Edition.


----------



## Zyrou

Hey guys

anyone using Aorus 1080 ti with Nzxt g12 bracket? if yes with which cooler ? 120/240/280/360mm coolers

Can you give me info about temperatures?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Zyrou

Btw I have another question

is this sound coil whine ? or everyone same sound underload






sound starts at 13th second when game opened %99 load


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> How much OC are you guys getting out of your memory, with decent stability?


+350..

I may try and get more out of it but I doubt it would be significant enough to notice.


----------



## nismofreak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> How much OC are you guys getting out of your memory, with decent stability?


I'm running +855. Diminishing returns after that.


----------



## Radeczek1993

Hello, I have new info about my setup.








So I've done some cable reorganization and upgraded my case. Added two 140mm bequiet! fans on front (intake), and two 120mm Corsair fans, one on the top and one on the rear (exhaust), both right next to CPU cooler. Now it's look like this:



Also done a clean installation of newest Nvidia drivers, v.388.59

Now Idle (desktop, 10 min from computer start) temps and clocks look like this:


And with that fan curve I've done some tests in Witcher 3. Maximum temperature that I've noted was 73 degree Celsius in 1080p and highest possible graphics settings, GPU fans utilisation was 80% with this temp.
1. Are those temps ok in this conditions?

I have one more question though. I spotted that the clocks are going down as the temperature rising.
With 57C there was 2038MHz, next with 61C was 2025 MHz, 67C - 2012 MHz, and 70C - 2000 MHz
2. Is this normal, or I should be worried about this?


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeczek1993*
> 
> Hello, I have new info about my setup.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I've done some cable reorganization and upgraded my case. Added two 140mm bequiet! fans on front (intake), and two 120mm Corsair fans, one on the top and one on the rear (exhaust), both right next to CPU cooler. Now it's look like this:
> 
> 
> 
> Also done a clean installation of newest Nvidia drivers, v.388.59
> 
> Now Idle (desktop, 10 min from computer start) temps and clocks look like this:
> 
> 
> 2. Is this normal, or I should be worried about this?


Its normal imo if you dont have agressive fan curve. I dont like to use my card hot as 70 so i put agressive fan curve my card settle depends on game 40-55 2063 at 40Cish 2050 at 50C 55C+ 2038

i use +50 core +600 memory.

I want to ask you
I am using Msi afterburner too. but my power limit is %125 Why your power limit is %150 ?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valter84*
> 
> Isn`t MX-4 a good option for repaste?
> Used it on my ryzen 7 1700 and I was thinking to also use it to repaste my Aorus 1080 ti Xtreme Edition.


It's a decent paste, and will look identical to the stock paste if it has to get disassembled.

I would recommend something a bit better though. MX-2 is consistently outperformed by 1-3C vs newer pastes. Noctua NT-H1 is only a little more and performs better.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> It's a decent paste, and will look identical to the stock paste if it has to get disassembled.
> 
> I would recommend something a bit better though. MX-2 is consistently outperformed by 1-3C vs newer pastes. Noctua NT-H1 is only a little more and performs better.


is it good to use luquid metal on aorus 1080 ti ? any damage or all cool ?

I am asking for CONDUCTONAUT thermal griizly


----------



## Radeczek1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> Its normal imo if you dont have agressive fan curve. I dont like to use my card hot as 70 so i put agressive fan curve my card settle depends on game 40-55 2063 at 40Cish 2050 at 50C 55C+ 2038
> 
> i use +50 core +600 memory.
> 
> I want to ask you
> I am using Msi afterburner too. but my power limit is %125 Why your power limit is %150 ?


I've read somewhere that power limit depends on what BIOS is in your GPU. I'm using F3P version.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeczek1993*
> 
> I've read somewhere that power limit depends on what BIOS is in your GPU. I'm using F3P version.


How can i check the gpu bios ? I dont know what bios i have on gpu


----------



## Radeczek1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> How can i check the gpu bios ? I dont know what bios i have on gpu


In Aorus Graphics Engine is a option that let you check that. You can download this software from Gigabyte Aorus official website.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeczek1993*
> 
> In Aorus Graphics Engine is a option that let you check that. You can download this software from Gigabyte Aorus official website.


Ye i found it my bios is f3

may i ask how did you update ur bios to f3p?

if there is easy way can tell me what its


----------



## AA junkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zyrou*
> 
> Ye i found it my bios is f3
> 
> may i ask how did you update ur bios to f3p?
> 
> if there is easy way can tell me what its


1) Go to gigabyte site and you choose your model :
http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GeForce%C2%AE-GTX-10-Series

2) Navigate to the support section and download the bios

3)If you have the non extreme Aorus as I do, run the N108T*AD* if you use DVI-D or N108T*AH* if you use HDMI.(read the PDF in the folder you downloaded)

You are done!

*I don't think it's necessary but I always uninstall drivers before bios flashing.


----------



## Zyrou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AA junkie*
> 
> 1) Go to gigabyte site and you choose your model :
> http://www.gigabyte.us/Graphics-Card/GeForce%C2%AE-GTX-10-Series
> 
> 2) Navigate to the support section and download the bios
> 
> 3)If you have the non extreme Aorus as I do, run the N108T*AD* if you use DVI-D or N108T*AH* if you use HDMI.(read the PDF in the folder you downloaded)
> 
> You are done!
> 
> *I don't think it's necessary but I always uninstall drivers before bios flashing.


Thank you

I am using DP and updated bios to f3p used N108TAXH.f3p_A this one worked well

and otherone N108TAXD didnot work well , i dont know why.


----------



## ScriptKiddie

Friend anybody has stutter with this card ?

i've in Euro truck simulator 2, DMC 5 for now. I changed mobo and cpu still i have.

My FPS Suddenly down 10-20FPS, and my framerate suddenly be 10~ to 80 90ms. Im following in MSI afterburner graphic. so i saw stutter.

Please help me for this topic.


----------



## mcamack

I have 2 of these (waterblock versions) and one of them is running 10C hotter than the other. Inside the box there is a flyer that says "make sure you use the left port as input and the right port as output" but of course I ignored that warning. I have PETG hard tubing connecting them and it would be very hard to snake the right output from 1 card to the left input of the other, so instead the second card has water flowing in backwards. I had looked this up before I setup the cards and it seemed like this shouldn't matter, but I guess it does.

At full load they're running 40C and 50C, does that matter long term? I'm wondering if adding another connection between the cards (making the flow parallel instead of series) would help this issue. I've tried GPU-z, HWMonitor, and other things to make sure these temps are correct and I believe they are. The second card also feels hotter. I'm not sure what to do.


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcamack*
> 
> I have 2 of these (waterblock versions) and one of them is running 10C hotter than the other. Inside the box there is a flyer that says "make sure you use the left port as input and the right port as output" but of course I ignored that warning. I have PETG hard tubing connecting them and it would be very hard to snake the right output from 1 card to the left input of the other, so instead the second card has water flowing in backwards. I had looked this up before I setup the cards and it seemed like this shouldn't matter, but I guess it does.
> 
> At full load they're running 40C and 50C, does that matter long term? I'm wondering if adding another connection between the cards (making the flow parallel instead of series) would help this issue. I've tried GPU-z, HWMonitor, and other things to make sure these temps are correct and I believe they are. The second card also feels hotter. I'm not sure what to do.


I am not sure what you mean by "make sure you use the left port as input and the right port as output"

Can you explain please ?


----------



## ultraplex

Hey chaps i have to none extreme card,is it safe to flash the extreme bios to it or will it brick it?


----------



## Blameless

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ultraplex*
> 
> Hey chaps i have to none extreme card,is it safe to flash the extreme bios to it or will it brick it?


It's safe, assuming you don't botch the flash of course.

However, there isn't much of any advantage to flashing the extreme firmware.


----------



## ultraplex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blameless*
> 
> It's safe, assuming you don't botch the flash of course.
> 
> However, there isn't much of any advantage to flashing the extreme firmware.


ok thanks for the reply m8


----------



## magicase

I have a question. My 1080ti keeps reverting to gaming profile rather than OC profile every time i restart the pc. Is there any way to keep the oc profile as default? I'm using the Aorus graphic engine program.


----------



## khaela

Uninstall Aorus app and try msi afterburner...


----------



## Hydroplane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcamack*
> 
> I have 2 of these (waterblock versions) and one of them is running 10C hotter than the other. Inside the box there is a flyer that says "make sure you use the left port as input and the right port as output" but of course I ignored that warning. I have PETG hard tubing connecting them and it would be very hard to snake the right output from 1 card to the left input of the other, so instead the second card has water flowing in backwards. I had looked this up before I setup the cards and it seemed like this shouldn't matter, but I guess it does.
> 
> At full load they're running 40C and 50C, does that matter long term? I'm wondering if adding another connection between the cards (making the flow parallel instead of series) would help this issue. I've tried GPU-z, HWMonitor, and other things to make sure these temps are correct and I believe they are. The second card also feels hotter. I'm not sure what to do.


I have SLI WB as well with the flow backwards on one card, my temps stay the same on both. 40-50C is not harmful at all, but is higher than it should be.

Right now I'm running prime95+heaven, my system is pulling 1100 watts from the wall, and both of my GPUs are at 33C. This is with a 420+280 rad and 3000 rpm industrial fans. I don't know what your loop looks like, but it sounds like you could need more rad, fan, or pump.


----------



## SinonStrike

Is 45c idle temp is ok?



And what is your stable in all games overclock on xtreme edition cards? I would like to see and compare.
Mine looks like that, never throttle lower than 2000mhz



Also, what is last bios for xtreme card? Mine out of the box bios is F4


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayombie*
> 
> I am not sure what you mean by "make sure you use the left port as input and the right port as output"
> 
> Can you explain please ?




As you can see here, the water jet design is directional. Reverse the flow will not damage it, but performance won't be good as designed.


----------



## Hydroplane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> 
> 
> As you can see here, the water jet design is directional. Reverse the flow will not damage it, but performance won't be good as designed.


It does make a difference, but it's almost so small that it doesn't matter. My cores will oftentimes be at the same temperature or within 1C of each other. Top card correct, bottom card backwards.


----------



## mcamack

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydroplane*
> 
> I have SLI WB as well with the flow backwards on one card, my temps stay the same on both. 40-50C is not harmful at all, but is higher than it should be.
> 
> Right now I'm running prime95+heaven, my system is pulling 1100 watts from the wall, and both of my GPUs are at 33C. This is with a 420+280 rad and 3000 rpm industrial fans. I don't know what your loop looks like, but it sounds like you could need more rad, fan, or pump.


I actually have almost the exact same setup, 420+280 radiators but I keep my Vardar fans around 1500 RPM for noise reasons. Thanks for the reply, it's good to know that the reverse flow does affect the temps. Although mine are almost 10C different so I may try to actually connect them with proper flow one day. With PETG hard tubing, that will not happen any time soon since I just built it. I'm wondering if parallel can help bring the temp difference down. Idle I'm getting 23C and 29C on the cards, load I'm getting more like 43C and 53C at 130% power


----------



## ScriptKiddie

Friends how can i know my gpu %100 stable ? i need some test it.


----------



## Chargeit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScriptKiddie*
> 
> Friends how can i know my gpu %100 stable ? i need some test it.


Only way is to run stress tests and then use it how you intend to use it.

The stress tests will usually pull out any bad instabilities. Using it as you use it will pull out any lesser instabilities.

For me I usually run something like realbench, Heaven 4.0 for about the amount of time I usually stress my system, then play some games that I like to play. If nothing crashes after that I'm usually pretty stable.


----------



## ScriptKiddie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chargeit*
> 
> Only way is to run stress tests and then use it how you intend to use it.
> 
> The stress tests will usually pull out any bad instabilities. Using it as you use it will pull out any lesser instabilities.
> 
> For me I usually run something like realbench, Heaven 4.0 for about the amount of time I usually stress my system, then play some games that I like to play. If nothing crashes after that I'm usually pretty stable.


Games are problem. I have stutter with this card in some games. And i dont know my gpu has some problem or dont. I need stress test. How is occt?


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinonStrike*
> 
> Is 45c idle temp is ok?
> 
> And what is your stable in all games overclock on xtreme edition cards? I would like to see and compare.
> Mine looks like that, never throttle lower than 2000mhz
> 
> Also, what is last bios for xtreme card? Mine out of the box bios is F4




If your Overclock is stable then thats pretty good. Mine has been proven to be stable at its current OC for about a few months now.

Took a good while of game testing till I new it was successful. No freezes, no hard-locks and most of all no Driver Reset Errors...

I forget if I updated my Bios or not now, but its what it is as displayed in the picture.

My idle temp is 33c - Now this will depend on your airflow and ambient temperature in your room.


----------



## Morph3R

Hi, is anyone aware of Xtreme BIOS version F60?


----------



## ScriptKiddie

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morph3R*
> 
> Hi, is anyone aware of Xtreme BIOS version F60?


Where is F60 bios ? i cant find in official page ?


----------



## Morph3R

My card was shipped with this version.


----------



## ScriptKiddie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morph3R*
> 
> My card was shipped with this version.


i cant understand gigabyte. I think F60 will release.


----------



## khaela

For the WB, nothing at the moment...


----------



## Mcrae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Morph3R*
> 
> Hi, is anyone aware of Xtreme BIOS version F60?


Hello everybody!

I got my new xtreme version since a week ago and its flashed with this bios. I realized that when I read this post. I am using msi ab and not the aorus software. My card keeps 2038 core with aggresive fan curve At stock fans core drops at 2025.Doesnt change if power target is 125 or 150 .Temps 65-68 max while playing Witcher 3 or Rotr.
Core voltage didnt ever pass the 1.05 . I tried +37 core and passed some benches keeping 2062. Tried +50 and crashed but voltage stays at 1.05 . I'm not familiar with boost 3 so i dont touch voltage curve etc.

I set core to -37 and power target to 100 so the card stays cooler (55-57c) with core around 1950-2000. Dont know if that bios works well but seems a good chip !


----------



## gpvecchi

Any dump of the F60 Xtreme bios, plz?


----------



## Supelp12

My extreme comes with the F60 bios. Check my earlier posting for performance. It work like a charm without messing around with bios. Could not be happier!


----------



## gpvecchi

Could you please post a copy of the bios? You can use GPU-Z...


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Could you please post a copy of the bios? You can use GPU-Z...


Will do that when I am back home


----------



## peshellas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Could you please post a copy of the bios? You can use GPU-Z...


I have the same, i tried to upload it to techpowerup and it already exists in this link

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/196218/196218

Seems to be the same as the F3P

Do you guys recomend F3 or F3P for optimum perfomance without hicups?


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Could you please post a copy of the bios? You can use GPU-Z...





Hope these help


----------



## gpvecchi

Strange, date of bioses seems different, and one of them is surely F3P...


----------



## Morph3R

I've uploaded by cards BIOS dump:

https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/197280/197280

If anyone is willing to experiment.


----------



## Supelp12

It appears that there are various date for bios with the same version number. For me I am not too concerned as long as the card performs at spec and in line with most users. There’s very little extra performance you can squeeze out unless of course you are having issues. Flashing bios can be potentially messy.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supelp12*
> 
> It appears that there are various date for bios with the same version number. For me I am not too concerned as long as the card performs at spec and in line with most users. There's very little extra performance you can squeeze out unless of course you are having issues. Flashing bios can be potentially messy.


I don't think there's any performance to be gained at all, but there is performance that can be lost, or the possibility of killing the card if the VRMs were revised.

People need to stop this blind BIOS flashing nonsense. XOC if under water and already past power limits, that's all. In the case of the aorus the power limit is 375W, so there shouldn't be many who require the XOC with the Aorus.


----------



## Supelp12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> I don't think there's any performance to be gained at all, but there is performance that can be lost, or the possibility of killing the card if the VRMs were revised.
> 
> People need to stop this blind BIOS flashing nonsense. XOC if under water and already past power limits, that's all. In the case of the aorus the power limit is 375W, so there shouldn't be many who require the XOC with the Aorus.


I fully concur! Don't fixed it if it's not broken.


----------



## gpvecchi

I don't agree, usually bios of a card version includes all the different timings for Vram of different fatories. In fact, the support page gives just 1 bios for all revisions. And this is not necessarily latest one, but the last that solves problems. So an updated bios is always suggested for me.


----------



## Jayombie

If there's benifits to the hardware by updating the bios I would defiantly do it. Things seem much easier these days to flash a bios compared to way back when you could easily brick a card if something went wrong.


----------



## Dixie

Hey guys, I'm hoping I'am posting this in the right forum. If not my apologies. I own a Aorus 1080Ti Extreme Edition 11G. I have not done anything to it yet stock out of the box. I have had the card since June and it has been working just fine. Yesterday it was functioning normally and today i boot up my computer and none of my display ports work. I run 3 monitors (1) 144hz and (2) at 60hz. When ever i change ports all my screens go black and the monitor power light turns blue like it connected then it says No signal and turns back to orange/red again. I haven't done any updates or anything other then the occasional NVIDIA driver updates but between yesterday and today i haven't updated anything. The Aorus software shows i'am running BIOS F4 but i'm confused because there website only shows F3 and F3P when i select BIOS. I'm not really sure what happened if my GPU broke or if something in my computer is messed up by any help i would greatly appreciate as i'am at my wits end with trying to fix it.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayombie*
> 
> If there's benifits to the hardware by updating the bios I would defiantly do it. Things seem much easier these days to flash a bios compared to way back when you could easily brick a card if something went wrong.


So what's the best/safest way to flash to this latest F60 bios please?


----------



## Jayombie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *V5-aps*
> 
> So what's the best/safest way to flash to this latest F60 bios please?


Well, flashing hardware and how easy it is depends on the hardware and if the supplier of which has provided the needed Bios/ Flash utility etc. Like most Motherboard suppliers it depends on who you brought it from.

I can not unfortunately tell you the 'best' way to do this. But start with the guide on this site :

How To Flash A Different BIOS On Your 1080 Ti.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1627212/how-to-flash-a-different-bios-on-your-1080-ti


----------



## V5-aps

Thanks Jayombie ^

I've flashed many bios's before, but was just wondering what version of nvflash to use with this 'F60' bios for our cards or if there was a way to use the Gigabyte utility.

Cheers


----------



## gpvecchi

Regarding the dual bios, flashing the card using nvflash will update the bios I'm actually using with my DVI monitor connected, right?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> I don't agree, usually bios of a card version includes all the different timings for Vram of different fatories. In fact, the support page gives just 1 bios for all revisions. And this is not necessarily latest one, but the last that solves problems. So an updated bios is always suggested for me.


Micron is the only one making the GDDR5X for all 1080 TI cards. There is no "timing fix" in any of the Gigabyte BIOS revisions. The most they changed was the power envelope, and even that wasn't a change (all are 375W when fully unlocked).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayombie*
> 
> If there's benifits to the hardware by updating the bios I would defiantly do it. Things seem much easier these days to flash a bios compared to way back when you could easily brick a card if something went wrong.


And thus far, there has been zero benefit from a flash to a newer rev on the Gigabyte cards. The only thing left when you eliminate benefits is risk - so no matter how small the risk, you only risk bricking a card. Not worth the effort.


----------



## gpvecchi

I tried flashing the F60 bios, everything works, but I switched back to F3P.
I noticed a strange thing: bios date in GPU-Z is still the same, that's why you see same bioses with different dates.
And another thing I noticed is that there is no differences when flashing bios in DVI or HDMI: I flashed in DVI and going back to HDMI showed the updated bios.
Oh, and HEX shows F3P is dated 29/06/17 and F60 08/06/17, so F3P is newer.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> I tried flashing the F60 bios, everything works, but I switched back to F3P.
> I noticed a strange thing: bios date in GPU-Z is still the same, that's why you see same bioses with different dates.
> And another thing I noticed is that there is no differences when flashing bios in DVI or HDMI: I flashed in DVI and going back to HDMI showed the updated bios.
> Oh, and HEX shows F3P is dated 29/06/17 and F60 08/06/17, so F3P is newer.


Cool. I'm on F3P already


----------



## changboy

I have aorus 1080 ti wb extreme and asus x299 strix. Is there a way to control the led of my card with my motherboard asus ?

Coz when i play music i wanna synchronize all together, thanks.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> I have aorus 1080 ti wb extreme and asus x299 strix. Is there a way to control the led of my card with my motherboard asus ?
> 
> Coz when i play music i wanna synchronize all together, thanks.


Unfortunately gigabyte has their own RGB software that's not aura sync compatible. You could run both at the same time though.


----------



## changboy

If is possible to flash the bios of the bygabyte 1080ti wb extreme for the asus 1080ti strix oc can work to get it work with aura control led ?


----------



## ScriptKiddie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> If is possible to flash the bios of the bygabyte 1080ti wb extreme for the asus 1080ti strix oc can work to get it work with aura control led ?


It can be dangerous


----------



## gpvecchi

Answer from Gigabyte support: they confirm that Aorus has 2 bioses, one for DVI and one for HDMI, so you have to flash it twice, using proper monitor connection to fully update.


----------



## Dixie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Oh, and HEX shows F3P is dated 29/06/17 and F60 08/06/17, so F3P is newer.


How would i find out the date for the F4 version of the bios?


----------



## d3v0

Getting the dreaded BSODs every time I try and use the Aorus extreme software. Is it because I am already using MSI AB? It BSODS as soon as launch, every time. using v. 1.26. All I want to do is set my LED.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Getting the dreaded BSODs every time I try and use the Aorus extreme software. Is it because I am already using MSI AB? It BSODS as soon as launch, every time. using v. 1.26. All I want to do is set my LED.


They don't play nice together. I set my LEDs first then close the aorus app and go back to after burner. The card retains the settings even after restart so you only need aorus link one time.


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dixie*
> 
> How would i find out the date for the F4 version of the bios?


Try to post a dump, or better, the update version from support site (not available anymore).


----------



## TucoPacifico

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *d3v0*
> 
> Getting the dreaded BSODs every time I try and use the Aorus extreme software. Is it because I am already using MSI AB? It BSODS as soon as launch, every time. using v. 1.26. All I want to do is set my LED.


Did the AORUS software get to a usable state? Last time I've tried it some 4-6 months ago it overheated the card when setting more than 2 curve points for fans. It just stayed at point 2 and totally did not remember further points after system reboot. Apart from that very unprecise and small sliders with no option to key in values from keyboard made this software a joke. I informed Giga about all my findings and I know others did too and they made some improvements. Is it worth giving it a try again?


----------



## Salko

Hey guys, I just got my Aorus xtreme 1080ti a few days ago and have been receiving crashes when playing over watch. The error message I get says " Your rendering device has been lost". I have never received this message before on my old gtx 780 with the same 1440p monitor and setup. I have tried reinstalling my GPU drivers and also the only mode it seems stable in is silent mode in the software that it came with. Thank you in advanced for any suggestions you guys might have!~


----------



## TheBenArts

Hello. I have got a gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti AORUS (non Xtreme) and I can't seem to push the card past 1962Mhz no matter what. I use a pretty agressive fan curve and if left on stock voltage it doesn't go past 61C. On 1.062 the card can do 1962 but it clocks down to 1949 during heavier workloads. I overvolted it to 1.081 and that way it can keep 1962Mhz stable but I couldn't get it any higher .
I am testing on Firestrike ultra on the first Graphics test looping. I have found it to be the synthetic test to be the hardest on my card. For example I can run Superposition 2012Mhz. Also the crashes are not hard crashes and it can sometimes pass Firestrike ultra runs on 2Ghz but it doesn't mean that it's stable as it crashes after 3-5min during stress testing. I was wondering if I could get better results by watercooling the card and if so, how much better would it be ? Would it just be 2000Mhz, 2050Mhz or could it even reach 2100Mhz. I know even people who have watercooled before can not know for certain I am just looking for estimates based on prior experience.


----------



## changboy

I have the 1080ti aorus extreme waterblock and i run it at 2062mhz and 1536mhz on memory



I dont think this make much différence in real world application, like game.

getting 103 fps or 100 fps will not change your life forever hehehe.

Maybe i can run it higher then this but i didnt try for pushing more my card.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> I have the 1080ti aorus extreme waterblock and i run it at 2062mhz and 1536mhz on memory
> 
> 
> I dont think this make much différence in real world application, like game.
> getting 103 fps or 100 fps will not change your life forever hehehe.
> 
> Maybe i can run it higher then this but i didnt try for pushing more my card.


What temperatures do you get with that block and at what voltages please?


----------



## changboy

After playing 1 hour on battlefield 1 my max gpu température is 33 celcius lol.


----------



## V5-aps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> After playing 1 hour on battlefield 1 my max gpu température is 33 celcius lol.


Looking good









What's the complete water-cooling setup and ambient temps etc?

Thanks


----------



## changboy

I have a corsair 750D case with a 280mm rad on the front a 360mm rad at the top and another 360mm rad in the back with external bracket. In that room température is 24 celcius. But i also have an i9-7900x with 8 cores at 4.6ghz and 2 cores at 5.0ghz on the same loop.

If i dont overclock my cpu, temp will go down of 3 to 5 celcius again. Coz at idle temp of my cpu is aroud 28-29 celcius and without overclock at idle is around 24 celcius, same of the room. Ya i cool my cpu and gpu on the same loop to avoid another pump and reservoir. My case is really full coz i have 6 hdd and 5 ssd in the same case lol.

Before i have 2 x r9-290 with the same watercooling set up and the 2 graphik card temp can go around 60 celcius (ya 2 cards).

So i can tell you the 1080 ti dont generate much heat like amd card. Iam doing watercooling for about 5 years and i luv it. No more noise from card when playing game and all compoment stay cool and quiet. But its better to not cheap the kind of part you buy for watercooling to avoid leak and problem. I still have the same D5 pump and it keep running fine and never broke. My system run 24/7 all the time.


----------



## TheBenArts

Wow that looks nice. What block do you have on your GPU ? Is it EK , Phanteks or something else ?
What overclocks could you achieve before putting the card under water ?


----------



## TheBenArts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> After playing 1 hour on battlefield 1 my max gpu température is 33 celcius lol.


Wow that looks great.
What GPU block are you using ? EK , Phanteks or something else ?
What clocks could you achieve before putting the card under water ?


----------



## changboy

This is original aorus extreme WB :

https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125988

This one with automatic overclock at 2062 mhz and 11212mhz on memory.





To me its the best rgb 1080ti out there.


----------



## khaela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> This is original aorus extreme WB :
> 
> https://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125988
> 
> This one with automatic overclock at 2062 mhz and 11212mhz on memory.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To me its the best rgb 1080ti out there.


+1


----------



## changboy

KHAELA : Yes its the same card then you and i luv it


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> This is original aorus extreme WB :
> 
> This one with automatic overclock at 2062 mhz and 11212mhz on memory.
> 
> To me its the best rgb 1080ti out there.


Best 1080 TI period, even with the RGB turned off. Second highest TDP, top tier VRMs (much better than the ones on the card with the highest TDP), and best card with a factory installed water block.


----------



## changboy

SavantStrike, what your highest overclock with your 1080ti ?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> SavantStrike
> , what your highest overclock with your 1080ti ?


2100/11600 without any voltage offset required.

I can push the cards harder if I give them some extra voltage, but I mine on them and the heat output and extra noise isn't worth the trouble.


----------



## XcroN

I have the 1080 Ti xtreme and i still don't know how to gain more voltage to the GPU in AB.
The voltage meter is 100% and in AB settings selected third party voltage controller but still i'm getting 1.093v and above 2025Mhz i have constant crashes. F3P BIOS btw.


----------



## changboy

Me i never change the bios its this one ; 86.02.39.00. DC is this ok ? or iam better update this one to another ?


----------



## gpvecchi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> Me i never change the bios its this one ; 86.02.39.00. DC is this ok ? or iam better update this one to another ?


Extreme version? Can you please dump and post it? Thanks!


----------



## changboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gpvecchi*
> 
> Extreme version? Can you please dump and post it? Thanks!


Dump it ? i dont understand what you mean.


----------



## XcroN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> Dump it ? i dont understand what you mean.


You can use GPU-Z to dump the BIOS


----------



## changboy

From gpuz message is bios reading is not suported in this device lol. Anyway its the F1, i never update it.

Why update to F3 or F4 ?

If the card working great ?

My bios already there (waterforce) : https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/?manufacturer=Gigabyte&model=GTX+1080+Ti


----------



## khaela

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> From gpuz message is bios reading is not suported in this device lol. Anyway its the F1, i never update it.
> Why update to F3 or F4 ?
> 
> If the card working great ?
> 
> My bios already there (waterforce) : https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/?manufacturer=Gigabyte&model=GTX+1080+Ti


I don't sure it the same bios the wb and the extreme...

Mine up to 2126/6220 at 1.093v without crash, but lost performance, 2113 is sweet spot for mine. The nvidia drivers is very important. For all versions i test the best is 387.82. The last 388.9 its close too... and the best for me to play games.

I'll try 2100 with stock vol...


----------



## Ashtaris

I purchased this card a few months ago on Newegg and at the time I noticed that it didn't have any video output on HDMI Port 1. Port 2 seemed to be fine, but I couldn't get anything out on Port 1. I left it on Port 2 and didn't think that much about it because that port worked and thought perhaps some strange configuration was just causing port 1 to be inactive. Also I only had one monitor so wasn't a big deal. However, recently I picked up a Oculus Rift VR headset and wanted to give it a try. So after various combinations of monitors, cables, and other settings I could think of, I came to the conclusion that HDMI port 1 was actually defective. So I sent the card in on a RMA to Gigabyte. Imagine my surprise and pleasure when the card was returned in about a week. Only problem is, it still has the same problem. There was no indication on the ticket in the return package or on their RMA web page that they actually did anything to the card. So just to make sure before I send it back again, I installed the card in a completely different computer system with the same result, no output on the HDMI port 1. So can anyone think of anything I might be missing before I send the card back?

Thanks!


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashtaris*
> 
> I purchased this card a few months ago on Newegg and at the time I noticed that it didn't have any video output on HDMI Port 1. Port 2 seemed to be fine, but I couldn't get anything out on Port 1. I left it on Port 2 and didn't think that much about it because that port worked and thought perhaps some strange configuration was just causing port 1 to be inactive. Also I only had one monitor so wasn't a big deal. However, recently I picked up a Oculus Rift VR headset and wanted to give it a try. So after various combinations of monitors, cables, and other settings I could think of, I came to the conclusion that HDMI port 1 was actually defective. So I sent the card in on a RMA to Gigabyte. Imagine my surprise and pleasure when the card was returned in about a week. Only problem is, it still has the same problem. There was no indication on the ticket in the return package or on their RMA web page that they actually did anything to the card. So just to make sure before I send it back again, I installed the card in a completely different computer system with the same result, no output on the HDMI port 1. So can anyone think of anything I might be missing before I send the card back?
> 
> Thanks!


One thing I can think of is the VR vs. Standard mode of this card. If you use DVI port, it will switch to Standard mode on reboot, and disable all HDMI ports except the one next to the DVI port. So, if you are connected to DVI, there is a chance that is the problem.


----------



## Ashtaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> One thing I can think of is the VR vs. Standard mode of this card. If you use DVI port, it will switch to Standard mode on reboot, and disable all HDMI ports except the one next to the DVI port. So, if you are connected to DVI, there is a chance that is the problem.


I read that as well in some other posts, but no, the DVI port was not in use. In fact, it's defective as well. It seems that all the connectors on that row are defective, the HDMI Port 1 and DVI ports. It almost seems like a GPU bios issue is disabling those ports for some reason, but I have no idea why or what could be done to correct it. Or some circuit board traces going to those connectors could be defective, or the chip driving them. It really has me stumped, but I don't think it can be corrected by the end user, aka, me


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ashtaris*
> 
> I read that as well in some other posts, but no, the DVI port was not in use. In fact, it's defective as well. It seems that all the connectors on that row are defective, the HDMI Port 1 and DVI ports. It almost seems like a GPU bios issue is disabling those ports for some reason, but I have no idea why or what could be done to correct it. Or some circuit board traces going to those connectors could be defective, or the chip driving them. It really has me stumped, but I don't think it can be corrected by the end user, aka, me


Yeah, I would call their support line. Good luck!

BTW, my card has one extra HDMI port on the other end of the card. I connect it to the Aorus VR front panel (2 USB 3.1 + 2 HDMI) which they sell separately, and it works very well.


----------



## jumpycarogna

For your information, I just used the HDMI one using a display port cable.


----------



## Aussy

Hey, Received my card today, I believe it might be faulty, just want to get a second opinion...

1. This is my overclock so far https://i.gyazo.com/a7e7679c0c9a4093b51eba1526a1e1fd.png

2. This is my score with 3dmark https://www.3dmark.com/3dm/24568133

3. If I put the core clock to +50, it crashes on the test, on 3dmark and futuremark, monitor goes black for 5seconds then comes back on and test freezes and crashes.

4. This is my GPU-Z stats - https://gyazo.com/5064f90a1fe8e920238a5fb7495714c4

It's not overheating, doesn't get close to 80c. My GPU came with 2x 6 pin when the GPU takes 2x 8, so I used my existing PSU cables that are 2x 6+2 pin, would this be the issue or is my card just faulty? My PSU is SeaSonic G-650W 80Plus Gold Modular PSU

I see many people get way above +50 on core, I think my only stable clock is what you see in that picture +16.

Idle temp is quite high too, in the 40s with barely any overclock. Although when I first plugged it in and installed the Gigabyte software, it was idling at 55c, so that's an improvement over that...

Thanks for any advice given, appreciated.

Edit: Hmm, BF1 crashing shortly after entering the server as well.. that's not good.


----------



## changboy

Begin without overclock it if it crash. Overclock is not for all card. Ur gpuz seam normal.


----------



## Juub

Anybody has these cards running in SLI? What are your temps?

At 100% load and 90 fan speed i have one card reaching around 80 while the other one caps out at below 60. A 20 degrees difference is massive. Was wondering if maybe one of my cards is too good or the other one too bad.


----------



## changboy

Coz one is use at 100% and the other one not. SLI is not amazing.

I run a crossfire for near 3 years and at the end i will never buy again 2 identical card but waiting for next generation or 2.

Even the game use 2 card at is best you always get drop fps to 1 card. To me its a waste of money and game run worst then just 1 card.

Just 1 card dosen't play yo-yo like 2. This is what i think but everybody dosen't think the same way.

One way to see that is to go in game who run sli and while you check ur fps you turn on urself (360) and you will see the fps drop.

After use just 1 card and load same game and turn on urself if the fps drop the same way !


----------



## Jason-uk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juub*
> 
> Anybody has these cards running in SLI? What are your temps?
> 
> At 100% load and 90 fan speed i have one card reaching around 80 while the other one caps out at below 60. A 20 degrees difference is massive. Was wondering if maybe one of my cards is too good or the other one too bad.


I had 980ti sli before this 1080ti and my top card was always 10-15c higher than the bottom one at gaming load , heat rises from the bottom to the top card , so that's normal , you could try swapping the cards arounds but i think you find the same , also depends on how many pci-e slots you have between the cards to , the more the better , one way to test your cards are ok and it just heat rising is to run a single card and benchmark loop it eg 3dmark, monitor temps and note down the max , then take it out and put in the other card and do the same , you may find that one card might run a few c higher than the other so the hottest running card i would put on the bottom


----------



## Aussy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *changboy*
> 
> Begin without overclock it if it crash. Overclock is not for all card. Ur gpuz seam normal.


Seems stable with no overclock. Do I miss out lot of performance by not being able to overclock this card? It is an xtreme version, so probably pretty high stock right?

Edit: In gaming that is, don't care about benchmarks etc


----------



## changboy

Having 107 fps or 103 fps won't give you nighmare when you sleep.

Having 57 fps or 55 fps will not change anything.

You can see by urself on youtube from a review of 1080 ti, they are all close to each other. A 1080ti is a 1080ti.

But if your card not reach what it suppose to be then contact ur store or seller and try exchange it. It's in ur hand and if you decide to keep it, then this is what you will have.

Same when you buy a cpu, some will overclock higher then other but at the end is 100 or 200mhz will change something in real world ? Not really. Rip a bluray in 45 or 46 minutes its nothing but number.

The thing you need to know its :::: you own a 1080 ti !!!!!!!!!


----------



## aliitp

i got this card recently and thought its a good idea to OC it to the max since its liquid cooled:

Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition 11G GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB GDDR5X

Am using the gigabyte aorus software which is Not the best software out but so far i was able to OC few mhz only to reach:
GPU: 1770 mhz
mem: 11450

However in HW Monitor it can reach over 2000 MHz
http://i67.tinypic.com/2hgxtnk.png

do you think those values are Ok and any risk of killing my card prematurely since am running it 24/7 for mining...

i was unable to go past those OC values as it seems the driver crashes...

any idea how can i push further in terms of OC clocks for the GPU ?...


----------



## aliitp

also how on earth to make sense out of the Aorus software when it comes to the Voltage bar ?? what does it mean +1 +2 +3 etc...?? and any idea on the maximum voltages i shouldn't exceed here ??...

i used to oc great using asus strix and unfortunately the MSI afterburner doesnt allow tweeking the voltage for this card so guess am stuck with aorus software :S


----------



## changboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aliitp*
> 
> i got this card recently and thought its a good idea to OC it to the max since its liquid cooled:
> 
> Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition 11G GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB GDDR5X
> 
> Am using the gigabyte aorus software which is Not the best software out but so far i was able to OC few mhz only to reach:
> GPU: 1770 mhz
> mem: 11450
> 
> However in HW Monitor it can reach over 2000 MHz
> http://i67.tinypic.com/2hgxtnk.png
> 
> do you think those values are Ok and any risk of killing my card prematurely since am running it 24/7 for mining...
> 
> i was unable to go past those OC values as it seems the driver crashes...
> 
> any idea how can i push further in terms of OC clocks for the GPU ?...


Your value is ok and your overclock is good, but when you overclocking the momory like this you can have a drop in performance.

To be sure you need to do a test with memory overclock like you and another test with memory around 11250mhz. Mine get a lil drop if i overclock too high the momory, but the card stiil stable.

I think even you push too high the gpu, the program will downclock it by itself. Like you put 1770mhz and when you open again the aorus overclocking program, it can happen the program put it at 1730mhz to avoid problem.


----------



## sazistas

Hello guys,
I just bought two of these Aorus 1080 ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition.



It doesnt come with a radiator or a pump like the other model from Aorus. I will use these gpus for 3d rendering,photogrametry,gaming and mining when they are not doing anything else useful but I am complete noob about custom loops and pumps. I own the corsair h100i gtx but I think I cant mod this to include both gpus and the cpu in the loop. So what is the cheapest option for the complete kit and what parts I need to buy? also if finally the whole watercooling kit is very expensive can I just remove the waterblocks from the gpus and add an aircooling solution like the stantard 1080ti's? are there any available that fits this particular card?
thanks


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sazistas*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I just bought two of these Aorus 1080 ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition.
> 
> 
> 
> It doesnt come with a radiator or a pump like the other model from Aorus. I will use these gpus for 3d rendering,photogrametry,gaming and mining when they are not doing anything else useful but I am complete noob about custom loops and pumps. I own the corsair h100i gtx but I think I cant mod this to include both gpus and the cpu in the loop. So what is the cheapest option for the complete kit and what parts I need to buy? also if finally the whole watercooling kit is very expensive can I just remove the waterblocks from the gpus and add an aircooling solution like the stantard 1080ti's? are there any available that fits this particular card?
> thanks


The rajintek Morpheus fits as a aftermarket air solution, but it's not nearly as elegant.

You cannot use an aluminum radiator with these cards, so a kit is your best bet. Somewhere in the 200-300 range.

If you don't want to go full custom loop, you could probably trade those cards for air cooled models. They are amazing cards and the blocks are sweet. Where did you find two of them?


----------



## TheBenArts

I am considering getting a waterblock for my card but I am not sure which block would be better.

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-fc-1080-ti-gtx-aorus-nickel-plexi-wc-9fx-ek.html

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phanteks-glacier-gtx-1080-ti-gigabyte-aorus-gpu-full-water-block-with-rgb-lighting-black-wc-01h-pt.html


----------



## Trike

Hi guys,

I also posted this in the Asus X299 owners thread to hopefully get more help.

I just got a Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti WB edition gpu and I can't get it to post with my X299 Prime Deluxe mobo. The VGA led is lit on the motherboard. I have tried reseating the card and tried different 8 pin pci-e power cables and still can't get it to post. I added a spare GPU into another slot and was able to post and get into the bios. In the bios, the 1080ti in slot 1 isn't even detected. I haven't pulled the 1080ti out and test it in another system yet, since I don't have one available.

I started doing some research and started noticing that this gigabyte card may have some motherboard incompatibility issues. I sure hope I can get this to work on my X299 deluxe. I really don't want to eat a restocking fee from newegg because of this.

Specs:
Asus Prime X299 Deluxe motherboard
i9 7900x
128gb ram
1tb 960evo nvme m.2
Gigabyte Aorus 1080ti WB edition
Corsair RM850 PSU

Anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks!


----------



## sazistas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> The rajintek Morpheus fits as a aftermarket air solution, but it's not nearly as elegant.
> 
> You cannot use an aluminum radiator with these cards, so a kit is your best bet. Somewhere in the 200-300 range.
> 
> If you don't want to go full custom loop, you could probably trade those cards for air cooled models. They are amazing cards and the blocks are sweet. Where did you find two of them?


Does this one also fit? https://www.amazon.it/Arctic-Accelero-Dissipatore-Grafica-Compatibile/dp/B00HHMJIIO/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7P468XV2CN0CHQFKY234
I find it cheaper than the rajintek Morpheus.
Unfortunately I cant trade those card with air cooled models because these were the only cards I could find in stock and it was actually a preorder many days ago from Amazon. So if there isn't any custom loop under 150 then I will remove the waterblocks and attach an air cooling solution which seems to be much cheaper option.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sazistas*
> 
> Does this one also fit? https://www.amazon.it/Arctic-Accelero-Dissipatore-Grafica-Compatibile/dp/B00HHMJIIO/ref=pd_sbs_147_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7P468XV2CN0CHQFKY234
> I find it cheaper than the rajintek Morpheus.
> Unfortunately I cant trade those card with air cooled models because these were the only cards I could find in stock and it was actually a preorder many days ago from Amazon. So if there isn't any custom loop under 150 then I will remove the waterblocks and attach an air cooling solution which seems to be much cheaper option.


Any air cooler you install won't do nearly as good a job on the VRMs let alone the core and the RAM, plus you'll void the good Aorus warranty. The accelero isn't as well liked as the Morpheus, and even the Morpheus is a compromise.

My Aorus 1080 TI WB has a backplate hot enough to nearly burn me under heavy load. I wouldn't mine on one with a jury rigged heatsink. It's like turning a Ferrari into a Fiat.

A 240 or 360mm loop could be put together on the cheap if you're willing to do the component selection yourself and you've got a few spare fans lying around, especially if you're okay with ordering from China. Those arctics aren't cheap either - you're looking at maybe a 50-75 dollar premium to go full custom loop and use the cards to your hearts content.


----------



## sazistas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Any air cooler you install won't do nearly as good a job on the VRMs let alone the core and the RAM, plus you'll void the good Aorus warranty. The accelero isn't as well liked as the Morpheus, and even the Morpheus is a compromise.
> 
> My Aorus 1080 TI WB has a backplate hot enough to nearly burn me under heavy load. I wouldn't mine on one with a jury rigged heatsink. It's like turning a Ferrari into a Fiat.
> 
> A 240 or 360mm loop could be put together on the cheap if you're willing to do the component selection yourself and you've got a few spare fans lying around, especially if you're okay with ordering from China. Those arctics aren't cheap either - you're looking at maybe a 50-75 dollar premium to go full custom loop and use the cards to your hearts content.


So can you suggest specific parts for a 240mm loop? pump, radiator, hoses, fluid type, etc. and everything I need to make it work, I am complete noob on this. Ordering from China is not a problem but it will take too long for delivery and I need to put those cards in work as soon as possible, I prefer a seller from Europe to avoid also customs taxes..

I am thinking also to sell the H100i gtx so I can add also a cpu waterblock and not having two seperate cooling solutions. But my cpu is a threadripper 1950x (TR4 socket), so I need a cpu waterblock that is compatible with this type.

are these suitable for my case?

https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-xres-100-spc-60-mx-pwm-incl-pump

https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-ac-gpu-connector-kit

https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-acf-alu-fitting-10-13mm-black

https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-fg-240-expansion-pack

Didn't found any cpu waterblock for TR4 socket. But except this, is anything else I am missing?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sazistas*
> 
> So can you suggest specific parts for a 240mm loop? pump, radiator, hoses, fluid type, etc. and everything I need to make it work, I am complete noob on this. Ordering from China is not a problem but it will take too long for delivery and I need to put those cards in work as soon as possible, I prefer a seller from Europe to avoid also customs taxes..
> 
> I am thinking also to sell the H100i gtx so I can add also a cpu waterblock and not having two seperate cooling solutions. But my cpu is a threadripper 1950x (TR4 socket), so I need a cpu waterblock that is compatible with this type.
> 
> are these suitable for my case?
> 
> https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-xres-100-spc-60-mx-pwm-incl-pump
> 
> https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-ac-gpu-connector-kit
> 
> https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-acf-alu-fitting-10-13mm-black
> 
> https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-fg-240-expansion-pack
> 
> Didn't found any cpu waterblock for TR4 socket. But except this, is anything else I am missing?


The fluid gaming kits are aluminum and I don't think they sell an aluminum threadripper block. You'll also get corrosion because the water force uses nickel plated copper. Mixing aluminum and copper/brass/nickel destroys the aluminum over time.

There are copper EK kits available but they don't come with a threadripper block, plus you don't want the EK TR4 block as it's terrible (loses to every other block by 8-10C). Looks like you'll be going full on custom







.

Do you care what this all looks like? Hose barbs with clamps and regular tubing are cheap and effective.

The 1950X is a fiery mistress. You will be a LOT happier with a custom loop than a H110i. If you buy from the right merchant on aliexpress, you get 2 week shipping. Otherwise both EK in Slovenia and Water cool in Germany are in your region of the world @Watercool-Jakob is a watercool rep on here and a fantastic guy if you decide to go with any watercool parts.


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sazistas*
> 
> Hello guys,
> I just bought two of these Aorus 1080 ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition.
> ...It doesnt come with a radiator or a pump like the other model from Aorus. I will use these gpus for 3d rendering,photogrametry,gaming and mining when they are not doing anything else useful but I am complete noob about custom loops and pumps. I own the corsair h100i gtx but I think I cant mod this to include both gpus and the cpu in the loop. So what is the cheapest option for the complete kit and what parts I need to buy? also if finally the whole watercooling kit is very expensive can I just remove the waterblocks from the gpus and add an aircooling solution like the stantard 1080ti's? are there any available that fits this particular card?
> thanks


I'd say that you have the most unique requirement I've ever seen. Why did you get these wonderful cards in the first place? You can sell them easily and buy the airflow or AIO versions, and maybe make a little money out of the trade.


----------



## sazistas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> I'd say that you have the most unique requirement I've ever seen. Why did you get these wonderful cards in the first place? You can sell them easily and buy the airflow or AIO versions, and maybe make a little money out of the trade.


This is a good question!







I just bought them because I couldnt find any other version of this card. I was lucky to find two of them, now every version of 1080ti is out of stock everywhere as you know. So the idea to sell them now and get the airflow or AIO version is good but this isn't an option now. I will also not buy from ebay used gpus from someone else as I need the warranty and the proof of purchase. (btw prices on ebay right now are extremely high) Anyway with the info i got from @SavantStrike I already found what I need exactly to build a full custom loop and I am going to order the parts now.
One last question I have is do I need a dual pump for greater water flow because of the dual gpu or a single one such as the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM is adequate ?
If I add a third or a fourth GPU in the future will I have the same temperatures or I should buy the dual pump from now?


----------



## svx94

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sazistas*
> 
> This is a good question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought them because I couldnt find any other version of this card. I was lucky to find two of them, now every version of 1080ti is out of stock everywhere as you know. So the idea to sell them now and get the airflow or AIO version is good but this isn't an option now. I will also not buy from ebay used gpus from someone else as I need the warranty and the proof of purchase. (btw prices on ebay right now are extremely high) Anyway with the info i got from @SavantStrike I already found what I need exactly to build a full custom loop and I am going to order the parts now.
> One last question I have is do I need a dual pump for greater water flow because of the dual gpu or a single one such as the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM is adequate ?
> If I add a third or a fourth GPU in the future will I have the same temperatures or I should buy the dual pump from now?


A full custom loop is the way to go. With a little study on the internet, you will handle it easily. I just did my first loop with EK kit, and I haven't built a PC for over 30 years since college. The loop didn't give me any trouble, and the build itself took me a while because I put in the loop way too early in my build sequence.

As for the dual pump, I don't believe you really need it. Here is my lessons learned from the Christmas build:
1. get extra coolant and prepare for rebuild;
2. get silicon greases for O-rings, one of my best move;
3. plan a drain port - most important. The kit won't have that included, you need to design your own;
4. buy a few extra fittings;
5. The GPU you got may use different tool for the stop fitting/cap. In US, that requires 1/4 in half ball key, different then the one comes with EK, which uses metric measurement/tools
6. plan your airflow in the case. Most case from 2017 are focus on the look, using temper glasses, with very poor airflow. 2018 CES shows a good new trend but the products are not yet available. There are not many water cool cases with good airflow. (I picked the TT Core V71)

Have fun with your build!


----------



## SavantStrike

sazistas said:


> Quote: Originally Posted by *svx94*
> 
> I'd say that you have the most unique requirement I've ever seen. Why did you get these wonderful cards in the first place? You can sell them easily and buy the airflow or AIO versions, and maybe make a little money out of the trade.
> 
> 
> This is a good question!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just bought them because I couldnt find any other version of this card. I was lucky to find two of them, now every version of 1080ti is out of stock everywhere as you know. So the idea to sell them now and get the airflow or AIO version is good but this isn't an option now. I will also not buy from ebay used gpus from someone else as I need the warranty and the proof of purchase. (btw prices on ebay right now are extremely high) Anyway with the info i got from @SavantStrike I already found what I need exactly to build a full custom loop and I am going to order the parts now.
> One last question I have is do I need a dual pump for greater water flow because of the dual gpu or a single one such as the EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 RGB PWM is adequate ?
> If I add a third or a fourth GPU in the future will I have the same temperatures or I should buy the dual pump from now?


A single d5 can handle 4 GPUs and a CPU, so no need for two pumps with only two GPUs.

You went with all copper,brass, or nickel gear right? The aluminum stuff from EK isn't a good idea for corrosion.


----------



## Mcrae

Hello guys. Here is a screenshot from an Unigine Sp bench .
According to what I've read in this thread ,I got a really good chip (extreme aircooled) .I have it since December and recently I played with the core and found undervolting limits . This chip does 1924/0.875v and 2037/0.950v . The highest I tried is 2101/1.081 +350mem and is rock stable! I will try more at the near future.

Greetings from Greece


----------



## xxicrimsonixx

I've got an air cooled on and a water cooled one. They are beasts.


----------



## jimboraver

hi all so i'm saving to do a full cooling loop but you mention using aliexpress ? Just had a look and am wondering if some brands are better than others ? or if anyone has any experience of using these chinese imports?
thanks james


----------



## jimboraver

hi all so i'm saving to do a full cooling loop but you mention using aliexpress ? Just had a look and am wondering if some brands are better than others ? or if anyone has any experience of using these chinese imports?
thanks james


----------



## xxicrimsonixx

jimboraver said:


> hi all so i'm saving to do a full cooling loop but you mention using aliexpress ? Just had a look and am wondering if some brands are better than others ? or if anyone has any experience of using these chinese imports?
> thanks james


I would avoid aliexpress parts unless you can get some genuine products from there, which might take a lot of searching. 

You might be able to buy things like tubing on there, but make sure to keep in mind the material of the tubing, and of course clean it before use.

I really wouldnt risk getting an inferior radiator or pump though.


----------



## jimboraver

ah ok fair enough ! thought it was to good to be true


----------



## xxicrimsonixx

jimboraver said:


> ah ok fair enough ! thought it was to good to be true


https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20180129090357&SearchText=xspc+d5

As you can see, aliepxress does have genuine parts. Unless the price difference is significant, I would just get it local, or from a site like http://www.performance-pcs.com/

You also have to consider that what you get on Aliexpress is shipped from China, which means that you could end up waiting a month or more for the parts.


----------



## Kipsofthemud

jimboraver said:


> hi all so i'm saving to do a full cooling loop but you mention using aliexpress ? Just had a look and am wondering if some brands are better than others ? or if anyone has any experience of using these chinese imports?
> thanks james


I'm using all Barrow hardtube fittings and there is absolutely no difference in quality between these and say, Bitspower. I have also had an amazing Bykski 980 Ti waterblock which had compareable performance to that of an EK block..

I am not sure if radiators and pumps are trustworthy though..


----------



## martinhal

Hi guys . I want to replace the thermal pad on my card , what thickness are the pads ?


----------



## The L33t

Add me to the club. Just arrived this morning. Now hopefully my Parvum case won't take much longer(a month has lapsed since ordering).


----------



## svx94

The L33t said:


> Add me to the club. Just arrived this morning. Now hopefully my Parvum case won't take much longer(a month has lapsed since ordering).


Welcome! You are so lucky to get two of those. It seems all 1080 ti card were grabbed by miners these days.


----------



## The L33t

svx94 said:


> Welcome! You are so lucky to get two of those. It seems all 1080 ti card were grabbed by miners these days.


Thanks!

Cant complain.


----------



## jura11

Hi guys

I just recently built for friend of mine with Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme,he bought Phanteks Glacier WB for his build

Spec is 5930k with 4.6Ghz OC with EK Supermacy EVO , Rampage V Extreme, EK PE360 on top with EK Vardar F3 1850RPM and bottom Mayhems Havoc 240mm with EK Vardar F3 1850RPM

Temperatures are very nice on Aorus GTX1080Ti,idle 17-20°C really depending on ambient, load temperatures 33-36°C max that's with fans running at 900-950RPM as max 

Glacier WB for Aorus is one of the best what I used, in therm of quality its miles better than EK,what I hate is RGB which must be controlled only through Gigabyte SW or other RGB controllers which is maybe plus for people over here

Used Phanteks TIM which seems is not as bad as I thought so 

Regarding the OC,2063MHz is max at 1.093v maybe this would be possible at lower voltage but still at such OC is faster than my EVGA GTX1080Ti Founders Edition with EKWB waterblock which will do 2113MHz easy

At 2063MHz Unigine Superposition 1080p Extreme result is 6307

FireStrike 23032, FireStrike Extreme 14210

Tried 2100MHz but no way is stable in games like Deus Ex Mankind Divided or in benches which is bit disappointing but friend is happy

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## nikthegreek

hello, i own a aorus gtx 1080 ti xtreme edition. I using msi ab to set fan curve, but i don't know how to set it. Would you give me an advice to set my fan curve? Thank you all very much.


----------



## Malamen

Hello guys, I need some help, cuz I think I am doing something wrong, here is the deal:

Last year I got an amazing Aourus 1080ti extreme and found some 2nd hand nzxt g10, everything works great so far, great temps , great clocks. Now I'm trying to control the speed of the AIO fans with the gpu controller, so I had one pwm splitter and I re utilized the connector from the original cooling fans, It was a simple solution in my mind, but damn I cant get it to work. Im attaching the pics of the cable I made and the connectors I tried to use, the problem is that my 120mm, 4 pin test fan doesn't work at all. Any help would be great, thx in advance (I already tried inverting the cable)


----------



## reinerlee

Anyone else has luck to OC their xtreme 1080ti? Max I can get is base clock 1730mhz (boost 1989mhz). No way to get over 2000mhz mark.
I tried both Aorus Engine and MSI afterburner.
Tried both F3P , F6O bios. 
PSU - Silverstone 850W gold rated full modular.
CPU - i7-6850k
MBB - Asus X99 A-II

Edited: BTW, I've tried up +100% Volt (in Aorus Engine) and 150% power limit as well. doesn't seem affecting anything.


----------



## xrodney

jura11 said:


> Hi guys
> 
> I just recently built for friend of mine with Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme,he bought Phanteks Glacier WB for his build
> 
> Glacier WB for Aorus is one of the best what I used, in therm of quality its miles better than EK,what I hate is RGB which must be controlled only through Gigabyte SW or other RGB controllers which is maybe plus for people over here
> 
> Thanks, Jura


Actually, if you get Phanteks glacier WB you have options to connect its RGB not to GPU but rather motherboard RGB headers (there is extra cable included) which allows you to use same lighting software as for your motherboard.


----------



## jura11

xrodney said:


> Actually, if you get Phanteks glacier WB you have options to connect its RGB not to GPU but rather motherboard RGB headers (there is extra cable included) which allows you to use same lighting software as for your motherboard.


I forgot to say that,but friend Asus Rampage V Extreme doesn't have RGB header and due this we used GPU header,AORUS SW is pita to use and caused few issues with OC,when you using rather like I do Afterburner 

But yes if yours board offers RGB then I would use rather this than GPU and AORUS SW

Didn't tried to use Aquaero RGB port,maybe this would work,does this RGB is addressable ? 

Hope this helps

Thanks,Jura


----------



## spl-

Hi guys,

Could anyone share their ideas or thoughts on this problem? 
My Aorus Xtreme 1080ti started overheating with its stock cooling during LOAD ~90+ C. It was working fine for like an year with 60-70 C during gaming.

Decided to replace the stock cooling with Alphacool Eiswolf GPX PRO 120 and the result was 95+ C just 2 minutes after idling on desktop.

Both plates of the cooling are getting extremely hot. My first suspicion was that the pump is not working, but that was ruled out.
The cooling was removed and the thermal paste shows perfect touch between the heatsink and the gpu.

Any ideas are welcome to troubleshoot this.

Thank you!


----------



## changboy

I suppose you have the 1080 ti extreme with 3 fans right ? Before you change the cooler on the card why dont you try to plug the card to another pcie on your motherboard if the problem is the same ? If the problem come really from the card then its still have guarantee you can contact Gigabyte. The wire from psu to the card are good ?


----------



## spl-

Yes, the one with 3 fans. Already tried switching to another pci-e slots with no luck. Haven`t tried with other cables but its unlikely as no changes were made on the system. It was working fine for a while and one day just starts overheating.

The warranty is voided once you remove the stock cooling, which i already did


----------



## changboy

Ok, so you desassembly it again and do a verry close visual check with a magnifying glass of all surface part on the board if you can find a pop up part or a abnormal area. Before doing this check all voltages when card running 3D application coz if some resistance have pop it might bring higher voltage then the normal and bring higher temp. You can also put back the factory cooler to try bring the card like its original and contact Gigabyte at support and write a ticket to explain your problem. They will give you a case number and ask to send the card somewhere and the worst it can happen its they wont repair or replace it but you have a chance they will make it good again why not try it. I know if the screew are too tight at some place it can broke some part with the pression but if you sure the card was bad before you open it then the problem is from the company. With the price of this card its not funny and i understand ur desapointment.

I wish you already registered your card on Gigabyte web site....good luck and tell us if you find a way to resolve ur problem.


----------



## spl-

Thank you for your suggestions, that would`ve been great but i think the card is dead now.
Re-installed the liquid cooling for another try and again the card was not getting cooled down. Loaded to desktop and after 1 min there observing the temperature the card made a clicking noise and lost signal to monitor.


----------



## changboy

You have a problem with your power supply or your liquid cooling system. Is ur pump running fine ? Do you have radiator and can you see your liquid move in your loop. Something wrong in ur set up definitively.


----------



## Blameless

reinerlee said:


> Anyone else has luck to OC their xtreme 1080ti? Max I can get is base clock 1730mhz (boost 1989mhz). No way to get over 2000mhz mark.
> I tried both Aorus Engine and MSI afterburner.
> Tried both F3P , F6O bios.
> PSU - Silverstone 850W gold rated full modular.
> CPU - i7-6850k
> MBB - Asus X99 A-II
> 
> Edited: BTW, I've tried up +100% Volt (in Aorus Engine) and 150% power limit as well. doesn't seem affecting anything.


Too much voltage is counter productive as it increases temperature and power, both of which will constrain maximum clocks.

Generally, you'll want to use a frequency/voltage curve (ctrl+f in MSI AB) to get clocks where you want them at the highest stable temperatures and lowest stable voltages for your particular sample and cooling.

It should not be hard to get stable core clocks between 2000-2050MHz on one of these cards with some tuning.


----------



## Boid

Hello everyone, 

I wanted to ask you an opinion about the issue I'm having with my aours 1080 ti.
I have an ek waterblock on it on a custom loop and it's running @2050 on the core with no overclock on the memory. I tried tuning the card for a couple of months to find a sweet spot but I had serious problems with both Heaven and 3dMark stress test. I thought I just lost the silicon lottery and I let it go.
Lately, with the summer coming and the temperature raising I am starting to realize that overclocking was not the Issue. My card idles in the low 20s and, depending on the game stays between 35 and 45 °C at full load. 
It just simply crashes when it surpasses 50/51°c. 
All the time, oc'ed or at stock speed, when it goes beyond that temperature in a few seconds it will just crash.
I tried updating the bios and a couple of others (the extreme one and the Asus with the no powerlimit mod) but same result, no matter what.

Has any of you experienced something similar?

These are my specs:
Gigabyte X370 Gaming k7
AMD Ryzen 1700 @4.0
G Skill Flare X 3200
Gigabyte Aorus 1080 Ti
Samsung 960 Evo
Corsair RM850
All the liquid cooling parts are from EK (full motherboard block, gpu block, 360+240 rad)


----------



## supermiguel

So i never owned an Nvidia card before (been AMD fan boy, for a long time), and im having a bit of missing knowledge  I have the Aourus waterforce 1080ti, which is rated to run at 1607MHz/1721MHz(boost) but my card runs at 2037MHz which makes it sound like it is overclocking it self, after a bit of research i found out that this is in fact true because gpu boost 3.0, so im guessing that 1607MHz is the lowest speed the card will run, but because gpu boost 3.0 it will overclock it self to max power... So my question is, with this new nvidia cards the way to overclock is just to increase the power and let them OC by them self? So you no longer need to manually change the speed/memory and test for artifacts like i had to with AMD cards?


----------



## Blameless

supermiguel said:


> So my question is, with this new nvidia cards the way to overclock is just to increase the power and let them OC by them self? So you no longer need to manually change the speed/memory and test for artifacts like i had to with AMD cards?


Not really.

GPU Boost 3.0 places several constraints that control where the final boost clocks end up, but it's possible to manually adjust voltage/frequency curves to get specific clocks you want. Stability isn't guaranteed once you start doing this either, so one must still stress test.

You can just increase the power limit and cooling and this will result in more performance, but if that is all you do, you are likely leaving several percent of free headroom on the table. A manual voltage/frequency curve will result in both more performance and consistency, if you have the patience for it.


----------



## supermiguel

Do most people just do a flat constant line? or you still make your own curve?


----------



## changboy

With my 1080ti in opengl cinebench r15 i lways scored around 193fps and with new update windows 10 version 1803 i score now just 176fps.

Anyone have check this ? do you have same drop in perf. ?


----------



## mustafa811

well 1st time to buy the aorus 1080 ti the fan was rattling and the gpu heatsink and fan part appeared to be dented .. i returned it for a replacment 

https://flic.kr/p/WiUvNb
https://flic.kr/p/VhCXts


2nd time i noticed the gpu weight was too heavy and gpu bends when installed in normal horizontal position .. tried to hold it via zip tie but found no adequate place in the gpu card .. thought of pci express support card but the fan and heatsink metal looked delicate .. so finally i mounted it vertically to cancel effect of gravity on the heavy card .. but 4 months later i found the thermal paste was leaking from the gpu ??!!

https://flic.kr/p/26FvEch

so is this normal ?! whats your advice to me ?!


----------



## changboy

If the card perform well then maybe just wipe exedant and try wipe lil on the inside border with a lil plastic and check back in a week a month. But the amount of paste is not normal and maybe they drop it on the gpu hehehe. Or best way is contact Gigabyte and show the pic with the paste coz those thing shouldn't happened. You not lucky.

I want tell you when i go see the picture i see in same times many picture from ur kids and also ur adress on a tracking info. Just to advise you if you want show all this or not 

About the card, if this card mine and the card run good and i have good perf then i resolve the problem by myself. For me its not a problem to desassembly a graphic card or built a pc but i dont know about you.

Me i put a lil plastic tubing to the right side of my card to not stress my pcie with the weight over time .


----------



## mustafa811

yup i agree with you .. am gonna clean it and watch for it the next couple of weeks .. usually the temp is around 40 c with no load and with load it reach between 60 c and 75 c .. never saw it above 80 c .. i live in a hot country and it is sbout 35 c these days and getting hotter 

i can dismantle it and apply more efficient thermal paste but the warranty would be voided then 

i just wanted to know if this happened before to anyone but i think the answer will not suffice my needs since all people mount the gpu horizontally 

as to your photos ther are a little dim so i couldnt figure the support you made for the card but since you are water cooled it might be not heavy as mine 

and about the photos exif data you are right people should take care of what data is offered with the photo but i dont usually geotag my photos and thanks for the concern 

every one reading my story keeps on telling me i am not lucky lol but maybe it is the other way around and their quality is not that good .. never had a problem with a gpucard beforesuch as asus rog or zotac extreme


----------



## changboy

My card have a waterblock but its really heavy too and yes your card is made from tin tin metal. Maybe they dont want make it more heavy but its too tin. Jayztwocents made a review on youtube of your card and at end pull a side a lil and broke the métal to show how is tin hehehe.

I agree with you is the card run fine just clean it and keep it, one day the flow will stop. I belive they use a really liquid thermal paste but for shure they didnt forgot to put paste on ur card hehehe.


----------



## max0x7ba

*Aorus 1080ti extreme silicon lottery*

Got Aorus 1080ti extreme in March 2018. It never crashed in stress tests like FurMark or 3DMark, but would consistently crash in games after 5-20 minutes with 100% fan. 

The best crash test is replaying a recorded game of PUBG. Had the same issue with a Vega 64 LC - it would pass all stress tests, but would crash in PUBG. 

IMO, PUBG is the best stress test because it is VRAM intensive, unlike stress tests like FurMark or 3DMark. 

Had to RMA it. Got new one and this one is rock stable with 150% power limit.


----------



## @purple

What was the starting price of this GPU?


----------



## Blameless

max0x7ba said:


> IMO, PUBG is the best stress test because it is VRAM intensive, unlike stress tests like FurMark or 3DMark.


I find 6-7 instances of MemtestG80 to be the most reliable test for memory errors on my 1080 ti, though since it's not very power hungry, one must limit the fan speed of the cooler to keep the GPU at realistic (or a bit higher) temperatures.

Quite a few games and benchmarks based around real game engines can also be reasonably memory intensive. The FFIV demo/benchmark and Unigine Valley are good examples of this.

For the core itself I loop 3DMark Time Spy first as it seems to weed out unstable core clocks quickly. Unigine Superposition is a close second and has the advantage of being near the peak power consumption you'll see out of a real engine.



kush113 said:


> What was the starting price of this GPU?


Around 700 to 800 USD, depending on when and where you got it and if it was the standard, xtreme, or waterforce edition.

I believe I paid ~730 dollars for my standard version.


----------



## max0x7ba

kush113 said:


> What was the starting price of this GPU?


I bought that AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G for £980.


----------



## BlinkyBill

*Liquid metal*

Is it worth it? im seing fooking high Temps well like 72 in max load want to bring that down any tips?


----------



## blitzkrieg666

Malamen said:


> Hello guys, I need some help, cuz I think I am doing something wrong, here is the deal:
> 
> Last year I got an amazing Aourus 1080ti extreme and found some 2nd hand nzxt g10, everything works great so far, great temps , great clocks. Now I'm trying to control the speed of the AIO fans with the gpu controller, so I had one pwm splitter and I re utilized the connector from the original cooling fans, It was a simple solution in my mind, but damn I cant get it to work. Im attaching the pics of the cable I made and the connectors I tried to use, the problem is that my 120mm, 4 pin test fan doesn't work at all. Any help would be great, thx in advance (I already tried inverting the cable)


Maybe I'm late to reply, but found out NOT ALL 4pin header is for fan. The actual fan header is bottom right near the front HDMI. Refer attached, circled in orange.


----------



## SavantStrike

BlinkyBill said:


> Is it worth it? im seing fooking high Temps well like 72 in max load want to bring that down any tips?


Liquid metal is almost never worth it - been discussed here ad nauseum.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

*Bykski GV1080TIXT block*

*please delete, double post*


----------



## blitzkrieg666

*Bykski GV1080TIXT block*

A little late for the party, but managed to get my non-extreme under water with Bykski GV1080TIXT block.

After MUCH research from post26150121 post26175609 post26226705 and post26299495, im not the only one with the taller circular component. Found from multiple trial & error, the best thermal pad thickness for this version as follows -

Red arrow: These are the tallest components and there's NO gap clearance in between it and the block, so i used a dab of thermal grizzly kryonaut for each (including the mem vrms on the rear). It contacts them nicely.







Yellow arrow: 1mm thick
Green arrow: 2mm thick (used 4x stacks .5mm of minus pad 8)
Blue arrow (Rams): 1mm thick
Pink arrow: 0.5mm thick (prolly not needed for this choke)
Yellow box: 1mm thick (prolly not needed for this controller too, but there's an emboss square section on the block itself anyway)








For the back plate, you can copy DisposableHero7 pad placement. I used 2x stacks of .5mm
#marginalgains 

As for fan header as my previous post, i need to remove the header on both GPU and converter + bend the pins ~45degrees so that i could squeeze in a Gelid GPU Fan converter:






















Hope this post helps for those looking into Bkyski GV1080TIXT block


----------



## putarity

*Questions before buying this card*

i am about to purchase this card. the xtreme edition in particular. i found several issues in instability and the first post says don't use the manufacturers software.

ironically, i am in a overclocking community and asking this question but i want to make sure otherwise. the card comes in gaming mode out of the box right? so if i dont use gigabyte's oc software and leave it on gaming mode indefinitely, wouldn't i get issues regarding gpu stability, right? any other tips i should do before using this card? thanks!


----------



## asarian

*Dismal performance in GTA V?*

Just got my Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti yesterday! I'm experiencing some dismal performance in GTA V, though, where there are places my framerate can drop as low as 22. I game at 1920x1200 @ 60Hz (most settings maxed out). Someone suggested I get older Gigabyte drivers; but, honestly, that feels weird. The drivers at the Gigabyte site are still at 384.76, though.

In every other game (the new Tomb Raider series, Crysis 3, etc) the card performs like a beast! As it stands, my 1080Ti performs comparable, in GTA V only, to my old GTX 980. And I'm getting the impression it's not really the card. Monitoring the CPU, it always stays below 50% load; disk I/O is nearly absent during it all (as expected), and GPU load is around 80%. Nothing that would indicate immediate bottlenecks.


So, are there any known issues with drivers I should know about?!


----------



## Blameless

putarity said:


> the card comes in gaming mode out of the box right?


"Gaming Mode" is the the stock clocks of this part, yes.



putarity said:


> so if i dont use gigabyte's oc software and leave it on gaming mode indefinitely, wouldn't i get issues regarding gpu stability, right?


If the card is unstable at either gaming or oc mode, it's got something wrong with it. Either is well below the mean of what most samples are capable of, regardless.



putarity said:


> any other tips i should do before using this card?


Out of the box, the screws on my sample were loose enough on mine to result in significantly suboptimal mounting pressure, and tightening all the screws holding the cooler to the card helped considerably. You should check yours and tighten the scews if they can be, just be careful not to overtighten anything.


----------



## Migot

Hi

Is it save now to use aorus software to oc card ? Or still the best choice is msi afterburner beta ?


----------



## xxicrimsonixx

asarian said:


> Just got my Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti yesterday! I'm experiencing some dismal performance in GTA V, though, where there are places my framerate can drop as low as 22. I game at 1920x1200 @ 60Hz (most settings maxed out). Someone suggested I get older Gigabyte drivers; but, honestly, that feels weird. The drivers at the Gigabyte site are still at 384.76, though.
> 
> In every other game (the new Tomb Raider series, Crysis 3, etc) the card performs like a beast! As it stands, my 1080Ti performs comparable, in GTA V only, to my old GTX 980. And I'm getting the impression it's not really the card. Monitoring the CPU, it always stays below 50% load; disk I/O is nearly absent during it all (as expected), and GPU load is around 80%. Nothing that would indicate immediate bottlenecks.
> 
> 
> So, are there any known issues with drivers I should know about?!


Try to update the drivers through GeForce Experience, or through the Nvidia website. Also what CPU are you using?



Migot said:


> Hi
> 
> Is it save now to use aorus software to oc card ? Or still the best choice is msi afterburner beta ?


The aorus software works fine, although personally I find it clunckier than MSI afterburner. Plus, if you use the Aorus software, you are able to control lighting effects.


----------



## max0x7ba

I bought two AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G, one in March, another one in May. For the first 2 weeks they both could operate robustly with power limit 150. After two weeks they became unstable and I had to dial back power limit to 125. After 3 more weeks they became unstable again and I reduced the power limit to 100. After another week they became unstable at power limit to 100 and 100% fan. So, it looks like the cooling performance deteriorated drastically within the first 2 months.

I bought Alphacool Eiswolf 120 GPX Pro Nvidia Geforce GTX 1080Ti Pro M21 and installed it on one. With this cooling the card is rock stable at power limit 150, voltage limit +100, 2064GHz, the temperature does not go above 50°C. Can probably push it further.


----------



## Rygar1976

I am curious about those watercooling their Aorus 1080tis - or any non-reference 1080tis for that matter... i.e. whats the point other than cool factor?

My Aorus 1080ti (non-extreme) will get ~2000 GHz on its standard cooler. All Nvidia cards are locked to a maximum of 1.093v unless you do a shunt mod.

At 2000 MHz and 1.093v my card never even reaches the 60s for the most part. On a super hot summer day when my A/C went out, it hit 68c.


Is this purely for the cool factor, or for those that dislike fan noise but dont mind radiator fan noise (thats obviously running slower?) Are all of you doing that shunt mod???


Unfortunately, I can't seem to get my card to be stable much above 2000 MHz. The power delivery on the non-extreme isn't quite up to par it seems. I am no expert at overclocking GPUs, but using the Frequency curve in afterburner doesn't net much of an improvement. No matter what I do, it will simply step itself down a step or two in voltage to make itself happy. Even if I lock it to a certain frequency (by clicking L on the node in the curve) it won't stay locked, even with forced constant voltage turned on in the settings.

I ended up going with the stock curve and just overvolting it via unlocked afterburner so it will utilize the full 1.093v. It runs at 1987 MHz. I can get it stable to about 2012 MHz but it tends to step itself down no matter what I do. Most of the youtube videos explaining how to use the frequency curve in Afterburner gloss over keybind commands (or don't have them at all) and I can't seem to figure out why my custom frequency curves wont apply the way I set them half the time. Why do I constantly have to re-adjust them to where I want them and hit apply 2 - 4 times before it accepts my curve? Why does it step itself down in clock speed at a voltage my curve says should be higher - why doesn't it simply go down in voltage? Is this due to instability? I can get it to run higher speeds without any issues other than VRel in GPUz, but it still HATES to be off its standard curve.

That frequency curve tool seems to have a mind of its own no matter what I do. Not sure its worth bother tbh. At 2025 MHz in Heaven benchmark vs 1987 MHz I lose less than 1 fps anyway lol. (Those frequencies are measured in Afterburner and GPU-Z. For whatever reason, Heaven consistently shows a slightly higher frequency than is actually running in the other two programs.)

Any tips or thoughts on that? Much appreciated!

Also - while I am asking - is there any real reason to overclock the RAM? I can get it stable to at least +400 MHz. At +500 I had a lockup. I noticed about 1 FPS increase but it makes me wonder if its even worth it. I've never had much luck overclocking GPUs though. My 980ti Strix would overclock an additional 2% past the standard 20%+ overclock the card came with. It didn't seem worth it then either. Maybe I am doing it wrong, but I cant seem to find a great source for midrange to advanced GPU overclocking info, especially on the 1080ti.


----------



## IMI4tth3w

Rygar1976 said:


> I am curious about those watercooling their Aorus 1080tis - or any non-reference 1080tis for that matter... i.e. whats the point other than cool factor?
> 
> My Aorus 1080ti (non-extreme) will get ~2000 GHz on its standard cooler. All Nvidia cards are locked to a maximum of 1.093v unless you do a shunt mod.
> 
> At 2000 MHz and 1.093v my card never even reaches the 60s for the most part. On a super hot summer day when my A/C went out, it hit 68c.
> 
> 
> Is this purely for the cool factor, or for those that dislike fan noise but dont mind radiator fan noise (thats obviously running slower?) Are all of you doing that shunt mod???
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I can't seem to get my card to be stable much above 2000 MHz. The power delivery on the non-extreme isn't quite up to par it seems. I am no expert at overclocking GPUs, but using the Frequency curve in afterburner doesn't net much of an improvement. No matter what I do, it will simply step itself down a step or two in voltage to make itself happy. Even if I lock it to a certain frequency (by clicking L on the node in the curve) it won't stay locked, even with forced constant voltage turned on in the settings.
> 
> I ended up going with the stock curve and just overvolting it via unlocked afterburner so it will utilize the full 1.093v. It runs at 1987 MHz. I can get it stable to about 2012 MHz but it tends to step itself down no matter what I do. Most of the youtube videos explaining how to use the frequency curve in Afterburner gloss over keybind commands (or don't have them at all) and I can't seem to figure out why my custom frequency curves wont apply the way I set them half the time. Why do I constantly have to re-adjust them to where I want them and hit apply 2 - 4 times before it accepts my curve? Why does it step itself down in clock speed at a voltage my curve says should be higher - why doesn't it simply go down in voltage? Is this due to instability? I can get it to run higher speeds without any issues other than VRel in GPUz, but it still HATES to be off its standard curve.
> 
> That frequency curve tool seems to have a mind of its own no matter what I do. Not sure its worth bother tbh. At 2025 MHz in Heaven benchmark vs 1987 MHz I lose less than 1 fps anyway lol. (Those frequencies are measured in Afterburner and GPU-Z. For whatever reason, Heaven consistently shows a slightly higher frequency than is actually running in the other two programs.)
> 
> Any tips or thoughts on that? Much appreciated!
> 
> Also - while I am asking - is there any real reason to overclock the RAM? I can get it stable to at least +400 MHz. At +500 I had a lockup. I noticed about 1 FPS increase but it makes me wonder if its even worth it. I've never had much luck overclocking GPUs though. My 980ti Strix would overclock an additional 2% past the standard 20%+ overclock the card came with. It didn't seem worth it then either. Maybe I am doing it wrong, but I cant seem to find a great source for midrange to advanced GPU overclocking info, especially on the 1080ti.


Honestly, with 10 series GPUs, manual overclocking is not nearly as fun, or necessary. With GPU boost 3.0, the cooler you can keep the card, the longer it will stay in the higher boost frequencies. So pretty much installing a water cooler will automatically allow the gpu to clock higher just due to gpu boost 3.0.


----------



## Fediuld

Rygar1976 said:


> I am curious about those watercooling their Aorus 1080tis - or any non-reference 1080tis for that matter... i.e. whats the point other than cool factor?
> 
> My Aorus 1080ti (non-extreme) will get ~2000 GHz on its standard cooler. All Nvidia cards are locked to a maximum of 1.093v unless you do a shunt mod.
> 
> At 2000 MHz and 1.093v my card never even reaches the 60s for the most part. On a super hot summer day when my A/C went out, it hit 68c.
> 
> 
> Is this purely for the cool factor, or for those that dislike fan noise but dont mind radiator fan noise (thats obviously running slower?) Are all of you doing that shunt mod???
> 
> 
> Unfortunately, I can't seem to get my card to be stable much above 2000 MHz. The power delivery on the non-extreme isn't quite up to par it seems. I am no expert at overclocking GPUs, but using the Frequency curve in afterburner doesn't net much of an improvement. No matter what I do, it will simply step itself down a step or two in voltage to make itself happy. Even if I lock it to a certain frequency (by clicking L on the node in the curve) it won't stay locked, even with forced constant voltage turned on in the settings.
> 
> I ended up going with the stock curve and just overvolting it via unlocked afterburner so it will utilize the full 1.093v. It runs at 1987 MHz. I can get it stable to about 2012 MHz but it tends to step itself down no matter what I do. Most of the youtube videos explaining how to use the frequency curve in Afterburner gloss over keybind commands (or don't have them at all) and I can't seem to figure out why my custom frequency curves wont apply the way I set them half the time. Why do I constantly have to re-adjust them to where I want them and hit apply 2 - 4 times before it accepts my curve? Why does it step itself down in clock speed at a voltage my curve says should be higher - why doesn't it simply go down in voltage? Is this due to instability? I can get it to run higher speeds without any issues other than VRel in GPUz, but it still HATES to be off its standard curve.
> 
> That frequency curve tool seems to have a mind of its own no matter what I do. Not sure its worth bother tbh. At 2025 MHz in Heaven benchmark vs 1987 MHz I lose less than 1 fps anyway lol. (Those frequencies are measured in Afterburner and GPU-Z. For whatever reason, Heaven consistently shows a slightly higher frequency than is actually running in the other two programs.)
> 
> Any tips or thoughts on that? Much appreciated!
> 
> Also - while I am asking - is there any real reason to overclock the RAM? I can get it stable to at least +400 MHz. At +500 I had a lockup. I noticed about 1 FPS increase but it makes me wonder if its even worth it. I've never had much luck overclocking GPUs though. My 980ti Strix would overclock an additional 2% past the standard 20%+ overclock the card came with. It didn't seem worth it then either. Maybe I am doing it wrong, but I cant seem to find a great source for midrange to advanced GPU overclocking info, especially on the 1080ti.



All Pascal cards start throttling from 41C. The cooler they are the better their boost 3.0 clock. Consequently the better the overclock. 

My old MSI GTX1080 Armor was able to do 2190 plugged on the Predator 360 keeping it all time bellow 41C. 
My current Aorus 1080Ti Xtreme can do 2063 on air, and while benching with fan at 100%. (nobody benches seriously with fans on auto). 

While using a fan curve on MSI AB is a constant 1990-2000 speed with just the boost 3.0 auto clocking, not even the power limit nor other overclock is fiddled about. 

Try it to see if your perf gets better. My fan curve points are 0C 40%, 50C - 50%, 60C - 70%, 70C 80%, 80C 100%. 
Even on these warm summer days in UK, without aircon the system is nice and quiet even during big long gaming sessions. 

I am going to grab a EK block to plug it on the Predator 360 since I decided to keep the 1080Ti for long time as at 2560x1440 is great card and it will take years to become irrelevant. 
And cannot go higher up the res because many games I play do not scale well (EUIV, CK2, Stellaris etc). 

BTW if you have the Aorus card, assuming thats why you are here, have you tried to upgade it's BIOS? I saw great boost 3.0 overclocking improvements when I did so last year when F4 bios came out.


----------



## Rygar1976

IMI4tth3w said:


> Honestly, with 10 series GPUs, manual overclocking is not nearly as fun, or necessary. With GPU boost 3.0, the cooler you can keep the card, the longer it will stay in the higher boost frequencies. So pretty much installing a water cooler will automatically allow the gpu to clock higher just due to gpu boost 3.0.


Thats pretty much what I have figured out as well.

Question: At what temps does it start to throttle the curve lower? I have Target temp set to maximum in Afterburner since it almost never gets into the 60s during heavy gaming sessions at 1.093v, but it DOES like to step down if I use anything but the standard frequency curve - even when I lock it to 1.093 (by clicking L on that node in the frequency curve) and with force constant voltage turned on. At standard frequency and unlocked overvolt to 1.093v it hits 1987 MHz. Not awful, but not the 2050+ I see a lot of people getting around here. I have never gotten above 67c ever - even when overclocked to the highest frequency I could get it to run and at the 1.093v max. I cant imagine its throttling due to temps in the 50s??!!

I swear - the frequency curve settings in Afterburner (or how they deal with GPU boost 3.0) has a complete mind of its own. My frequency curve settings simply seem to be a recommendation and the card/afterburner/gpu boost 3.0 ends up doing exactly what it wants no matter *** I try. I can't find anything online about this issue either. If it made a huge difference in overall performance, it would massively piss me off - luckily its not that big a difference, so it just annoys my PC related OCD lol.


It sounds like the Extreme edition is, for the most part, the same card but with a better power delivery system (and maybe higher binning?) I'm curious if its the silicon lottery causing my frequency curve problems at 2000 MHz and above, or the power delivery of the card. At 1.093v and ~2000 MHz, I simply get VRel in GPU-Z, no PWR, THRM or VOp. Much higher than 2012+ I start to get PWR and VOp as well.


Another question - how are people finding SLI on two 1080ti cards these days? Is it worth the hassle? Are you finding a lot of games that have issues with it? Any noticeable micro-stuttering? How often do you have to disable the second card - or even REMOVE the second card - to play a game?

At one point in the past, I had a tri-sli setup and it was totally not worth the hassle with the number of issues it caused, especially around launch time for a lot of games, until they got around to adding SLI profiles. That and Nvidia has gone away from pushing SLI and doesn't support it as much as they used to. I am assuming its even less supported in games these days.

As a heavy PC gamer for over 20 years now, including comp scene, I am waiting until a single GPU can push 90+% of games to 120fps or higher in 4k to make the switch. If I thought 2 x 1080tis could do it WITHOUT any issues, I might consider adding a second 1080ti and getting a new monitor now rather than waiting.


----------



## Fediuld

Rygar1976 said:


> Thats pretty much what I have figured out as well.
> 
> Question: At what temps does it start to throttle the curve lower?


41C is the first drop by 12mhz. Second drop at 51C, third at 61C. When hits 71 it throttles more than 12mhz

For the curve to succeed, you need to make sure that every one point up, you need two in straight line, on the last 8 points.


----------



## Rygar1976

Fediuld said:


> 41C is the first drop by 12mhz. Second drop at 51C, third at 61C. When hits 71 it throttles more than 12mhz
> 
> For the curve to succeed, you need to make sure that every one point up, you need two in straight line, on the last 8 points.




I saw on my phone someone suggested checking the firmware of the card, which I haven't flashed since I installed it 15 months or so ago. I checked my bios in Aorus software and it was showing F3, but there was no BIOS version number showing in GPU-Z. The latest bios on their site was F3, but I saw someone mention they had previous versions of F3, so I went ahead and flashed the card.

That basically did the trick. I spent the last 4+ hours tweaking out the card and ended up with 2050 at 1.093v. At 42c it drops to 2037 and then in the mid-50s it drops to 2025 and never goes any lower. I have the RAM at +155 (1417.5 MHz in GPU-z, 5670 MHz in Afterburner). +200 with this frequency curve and it crashed, so I haven't tweaked it beyond that 155 mark as I ran out of time tonight.

I ran the Heaven benchmark 5 times, which equates to a bit over 20 minutes and it never exceeded 64c at those settings and every final FPS result was the same. At 2k with all settings maxed I got an average of 72.5 each time. I was able to get it to run the benchmark at up to 2062 MHz at 1.093v, but it crashed on the second benchmark. 

After learning that GPU Boost starts to drop clock speeds as low as 42c, I am now considering pulling off the heatsink and applying Conductonaut. I have plenty here from my last delid, so I plan to look into the results people are getting by doing this. Not sure its worth the effort, but the effort tonight gave me an extra 3-4 fps in my Heaven benchmarks. If I could pick up another 2 - 4 with liquid metal, it would be worth it!

I appreciate the help!!


----------



## Rygar1976

Update: The ^^ above results were done with Forced constant voltage applied in Afterburner settings. This didnt work until I flashed my bios yesterday. With that setting on, it steps down the clock speed at the temperature intervals, but does not drop the actual voltage. The voltage remained at 1.093v during all testing.

This morning I pulled the heatsink off the card and replaced the TIM with Grizzly Conductonaut, applying it both to the GPU and to the heatsink after cleaning and polishing both. It was a very easy process other than getting the jumpers unplugged. I struggled with that as they were REALLY on. I ended up only removing 2 of the 4 jumpers, which allowed me full access to work. Time took about 30 mins or so.


So last night after 5 consecutive benchmarks on Uniengine Heaven 4.0 I hit 64c max at 1.093v. My card idled around 38c. Ambient temps at 24c. It almost immediately dropped from 2050 to 2037 to 2025 in the first benchmark and remained there for all 5. VRAM was set to +155, 5670 MHz in Afterburner or 1417.5 MHz in GPU-z.

After replacing the TIM with liquid metal: The card maxed out at 55c at 1.093v after 5 consecutive benchmarks. My card now idles at 29c. Ambient temps still at 24c. My curve, which was set to Profile one, actually bumped itself up when I logged in this am. The frequency curve does like to jump around when it "applies" the curve, so I am not surprised. I left it like that. Now it was set to 2062 at 1.093v and the next node down at 2037, though the voltage never drops anyway.

It dropped immediately from 2062 to 2050 on starting and remained at 2050 for most of the first benchmark, dropping to 2037 at the start of run #2. By the end of the second benchmark, it was at 2025 and remained there for the rest of testing. The boost changes happened much slower than they did last night.

VRAM still set the same as last night.

Interestingly, my Power Consumption dropped from hitting a max of 105% last night to a max of 101.7% today. I noticed that during 99% of the testing it was at around 91 - 93%. Lastly my PerfCap reason never once showed anything but VRel. Last night it was showing VRel, VOp, Pwr and occasionally Therm.

Overall I got about a 9c drop at idle and 9c drop at full load at 1.093v for an extended period of time. Very successful! 

Again thanks for clarifying the "speed step" info for GPU boost! I would never have guessed it would start to throttle GPU speeds at 41c! Water cooling makes a LOT more sense now  I am off to see if I can squeak some additional clock speed and ram speed out of this.


----------



## Rygar1976

Final results:

10 Consecutive Benchmarks in Uniengine Heaven 4.0

2075.5 MHz at 1.093v
Steps down after about 60 seconds to 2062.5 MHz at 1.093v and 45c
2nd step down after about 5 mins and 30 seconds to 2050.0 MHz at 1.093v and 55c. It remained at that speed for the remainder of the 10 tests.

Max Temp: 56c (Although it did bounce quite often between 55c and 56c, it remained at 2050 MHz. It did not up the clock speed back to 2062.)

VRAM set to +0 - stock clocks for non-extreme version (5508 MHz in Afterburner.) With the +155 MHz from previous tests, I would crash by the second or third run. I will most likely leave this at stock clock speed.

Power Consumption Max: 104.1% TDP 

No PerfCap reason at all... stays at None. Never drops down from 1.093v even after disabling "Force Constant Voltage." 

That BIOS flash + liquid metal helped out a TON! I could see hitting 2100 MHz or more with a great liquid cooling setup + liquid metal.


----------



## Fediuld

Rygar1976 said:


> Final results:
> 
> 10 Consecutive Benchmarks in Uniengine Heaven 4.0
> 
> 2075.5 MHz at 1.093v
> Steps down after about 60 seconds to 2062.5 MHz at 1.093v and 45c
> 2nd step down after about 5 mins and 30 seconds to 2050.0 MHz at 1.093v and 55c. It remained at that speed for the remainder of the 10 tests.
> 
> Max Temp: 56c (Although it did bounce quite often between 55c and 56c, it remained at 2050 MHz. It did not up the clock speed back to 2062.)
> 
> VRAM set to +0 - stock clocks for non-extreme version (5508 MHz in Afterburner.) With the +155 MHz from previous tests, I would crash by the second or third run. I will most likely leave this at stock clock speed.
> 
> Power Consumption Max: 104.1% TDP
> 
> No PerfCap reason at all... stays at None. Never drops down from 1.093v even after disabling "Force Constant Voltage."
> 
> That BIOS flash + liquid metal helped out a TON! I could see hitting 2100 MHz or more with a great liquid cooling setup + liquid metal.


Glad it worked mate  
Yeah. Watercooling helps a lot especially when you try to put some benchmarks up. 

If you watercool, and want better cooling for VRMs and VRAM use the Therma Grizzly pad 8 (W/mK 8.0) if you are in Europe or better FujiPoly Extreme thermal pad (W/mK 11.0) if you are in US.
(shame this isn't imported in UK). And also use a tiny drop of normal thermal paste (not liquid meta), on the VRMs and VRAM before you put the pad.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Hey guys, nice to see that this thread took off! Still loving my Aorus. This thing destroys anything I throw at it! Been laying low for quite a while. This site is a lot different now!


----------



## Supahflii

Jealous of you guys. I have the air cooled xtreme version, and it's not stable above 2k. Enjoy for me!


----------



## gpvecchi

For anyone interested, here's a copy of F3P Extreme bios, with updated firmware for displayport 1.3-1.4 and GOP Driver updated to 3000B.
Rename txt to rar. Included both bios for DVI and HDMI exit (you have to flash both, with monitor connected in both ways)


----------



## freakyflow

Hello all,

I just got this card and the thing is, the games crash (Windows still runs), and it boots me back to desktop within 2 or so minutes from the games. My situation is:

- Out of the box, games crash with MSI Afterburner installed. I did not change or OC any settings in Afterburner.
- Updated all drivers, tried old drivers, cleaned out previous drivers using DDU
- Got somewhere, by installing Aorus Engine, and using "Silent Mode", games don't seem to crash. But I CANNOT use Game or OC mode. 
- Tried Professional mode, and even if I do +1 on clock, games crash. So it seems like I'm stuck with Silent mode....

*I have not updated BIOS for the card*

I know other folks have reported very similar issues early in this thread, but what would be the recommended action now? I got this card new from EBAY and to be honest, I don't want to do extensive testing (change PSU etc), as I will probably request a refund for defective product from the seller as soon as possible. Should I go that route, or should I RMA from Gigabyte? I issue with RMA from what I hear, is that it takes 6-7weeks to Canada so perhaps faster action is just request refund from seller? 

Or do I try and solve this problem?


----------



## gpvecchi

I had same issue. Try with 100% fanspeed, if you got no crashes with this configuration, you have to RMA...


----------



## freakyflow

gpvecchi said:


> I had same issue. Try with 100% fanspeed, if you got no crashes with this configuration, you have to RMA...


So I played around a bit more in Aorus System and the 2 modes I can use without driver crashing is Silent Mode and Pro mode with GPU Boost set at 1721 (Aorus reports boosting up to 2038 when playing Overwatch) and fan at 80% >40degrees. The second I do +1 in GPU boost to 1722, game crashes... I think I will need to RMA this, or return to the ebay seller?

If I do an RMA, does Gigabyte let you keep the defective card until a new one arrives?


----------



## Supahflii

Has anyone used new thermal paste for their air cooled card? 

Thinking about doing this to squeeze out some more Mhz and keep it cooler. 

Is there a suggest thermal paste? I was looking at TG Conductonaut, but I can't find any place telling me what the heatsinks are made of.


----------



## JimUSA

Hello. I have 1080ti with Aorus factory water block and I would like to ask if anyone overclocked it and how many max?


----------



## JimUSA

Hello, I have 1080ti with Aorus factory water block and I would like to ask if anyone overclocked it and how many max?


----------



## Ralos

Hi guys!!

I need some help. I got a Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 TI Xtreme Edition + Ryzen 1700 @3.9Ghz on a Gigabyte X370 Gaming 5 motherboard. I´m suffering a problem, my PC power off while gaming, I just saw in OP the recommendations to resolve that stuff but I need some advices.

My PSU is a Seasonic Focus+ Platinum 650w. How should I plug both 8pin connectors to resolve the issue? PSU has five 8pin connectors (as you can see in the image)



THANKS


----------



## anthonyl

Sign me up for the club..proud owner of an AORUS GTX 1080Ti EXTREME EDITION


----------



## marduke83

Just wondering if anyone knows which fan header is the actual fan header and which are for the leds? Or are they all the same?
thanks in advance

edit* all good I pulled the shroud off of the heatsink and worked it out. looks like it's the one on the bottom near the internal hdmi header.


----------



## terapevtrushka

Hello! I am the owner of Gigabyte gtx 1080 Ti AORUS non-extreme, my graphics card can not keep the frequency above 1999 even at 1.093 voltage. A bad chip? Has anyone encountered a similar problem? Now sitting at 1.05 v and 1974 MHz


----------



## Blameless

Ralos said:


> Hi guys!!
> 
> I need some help. I got a Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 TI Xtreme Edition + Ryzen 1700 @3.9Ghz on a Gigabyte X370 Gaming 5 motherboard. I´m suffering a problem, my PC power off while gaming, I just saw in OP the recommendations to resolve that stuff but I need some advices.
> 
> My PSU is a Seasonic Focus+ Platinum 650w. How should I plug both 8pin connectors to resolve the issue? PSU has five 8pin connectors (as you can see in the image)
> 
> 
> 
> THANKS


As long as they are two independent cables going from the PSU to the card, you shouldn't be having any issues related to the PSU, unless it's defective.



terapevtrushka said:


> Hello! I am the owner of Gigabyte gtx 1080 Ti AORUS non-extreme, my graphics card can not keep the frequency above 1999 even at 1.093 voltage. A bad chip? Has anyone encountered a similar problem? Now sitting at 1.05 v and 1974 MHz


You are probably using too much voltage. Check to see if you are temperature or power limited to be sure.

2GHz should only need about 1v flat.


----------



## terapevtrushka

You are probably using too much voltage. Check to see if you are temperature or power limited to be sure.

2GHz should only need about 1v flat.[/QUOTE]

My card get creashed when i trying 2GHz on lower voltage, typial gpu-z render test crashed..other benchmarks ofc too


----------



## terapevtrushka

Blameless said:


> You are probably using too much voltage. Check to see if you are temperature or power limited to be sure.
> 
> 2GHz should only need about 1v flat.


My card get crashed when i trying 2GHz on lower voltage, typial gpu-z render test crashed..other benchmarks ofc too


----------



## Blameless

If it's just a weak sample, there likely isn't much you can do.

What sort of temperatures are you seeing?


----------



## terapevtrushka

~60-65 in games with 144 HZ, and lower in 60 fps games


----------



## Dvsfranck

Someone have a Unlocked TDP bios link for that card ? Or can I flash the S1080tiXOC that we an find in the 1080ti bios thread on that card ?


----------



## nonetheless

New BIOS version 86.02.39.40.5E:

Gigabyte AORUS 1080 Ti
AORUS 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition


----------



## gpvecchi

nonetheless said:


> New BIOS version 86.02.39.40.5E:
> 
> Gigabyte AORUS 1080 Ti
> AORUS 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition


The Xtreme bios is marked as FZ2 and dated 8 may 2018. Is this for DVI or HDMI?
EDIT: Subsytem ID is different from my card.
EDIT 2: it's for HDMI.


----------



## nonetheless

They are both marked as 11GD_H which is for HDMI/DP.

This is the DVI version: GV-N108TAORUS-11GD_D/F60/05E4


----------



## gpvecchi

I'd need the DVI version of 86.02.39.40.5E Xtreme...


----------



## ClashOfClans

Got a 1080 ti founders edition recently. What should I do to test performance to see if the card is in good working order. You guys got any synthetic benchmarks and scores I can compare mine to?


----------



## nonetheless

(doublepost)


----------



## nonetheless

Thermal pad size for version V17032-2:


----------



## gpvecchi

gpvecchi said:


> I'd need the DVI version of 86.02.39.40.5E Xtreme...


Anyone, please?


----------



## addicTix

I got a really bad Aorus Xtreme 1080 Ti.. bought it used from ebay with over 3 years warranty and invoice, but the card is hardly stable.
When I just increase the powerlimit to 150% and voltage to 100% without changing anything about core clock or mem clock, the card is crashing.
When I set voltage to 0% just power limit to 150%, it's barely stable.. wildlands still crashing, which didn't happen with my 1070.
As you can think already, it's not able to achieve 2000 MHz @1.000v or anything near that.

God damn.. I really hope the retailer where the first buyer bought his card will exchange it.
First buyer bought it on october 30th, 2017, so it's not even a year old.
Also the private seller on ebay didn't mention anything about instability.
Plus, the 4 years warranty are only available when the card got registered witihin the first month of purchase, so I hope he did that otherwise I'm trying to refund the purchase on ebay and send the card back to him.


----------



## nonetheless

addicTix said:


> When I just increase the powerlimit to 150% and voltage to 100% without changing anything about core clock or mem clock, the card is crashing.
> When I set voltage to 0% just power limit to 150%, it's barely stable.. wildlands still crashing, which didn't happen with my 1070.
> As you can think already, it's not able to achieve 2000 MHz @1.000v or anything near that.


Probably a 24/7 mining card with bad airflow, this would rapidly deteriorate the capacitors. Which explains the unstable voltage supply even on stock setings.
Return it asap.


----------



## ROKUGAN

nonetheless said:


> New BIOS version 86.02.39.40.5E:
> 
> Gigabyte AORUS 1080 Ti
> AORUS 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition


Hi, is this an official version? I can´t find any info about it, nor it´s listed anywhere else apart from the Techpowerup database.


----------



## mattliston

Auros non-xtreme edition 1080 TI owner checking in.


Was looking around for a full water block, found out EK discontinued their block?


Product EAN: 
3830046995391 



What a shame, card is still actively being sold new.


Oh well, the Auros has not seen over 55*C.




Currently at 2050mhz at 1.075 volts and 12ghz memory, havent really dialed in a better clock, used the curve feature of MSI Afterburner.


Nice improvement over my old GTX 1070 from PNY, which did 2088mhz all day.


----------



## PiEownz

Hi guys,

I just installed my Aorus 1080 TI non extreme edition.

Just a couple things I notice when I tried to overclock. For some reason, I can't get the core clock over +20 MHz. Everytime I play a game like BF1 or use a benchmark like Unigine Heaven, the FPS goes down by half which tells me that it is unstable. I would always have to restart my PC for the FPS to return to normal. I also tried to set the power limit to 120% and the same thing happens, FPS goes lower. 

I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here but maybe someone can lead me in the right direction. It's also possible that I got a bad card that won't overclock.


----------



## changboy

Me i have the extreme waterblock one and i use the program from gigabyte aorus to overclock it on automatic and the card boost itself at 2062mhz. I never got a crash on any game and i have most of the games as well. But i never try to push it or change the bios. I keep like it was new when i bought it and it keep running fine.


----------



## Jokesterwild

changboy said:


> Me i have the extreme waterblock one and i use the program from gigabyte aorus to overclock it on automatic and the card boost itself at 2062mhz. I never got a crash on any game and i have most of the games as well. But i never try to push it or change the bios. I keep like it was new when i bought it and it keep running fine.


same, I have the same card. using msi afterburner (same ****) and mine sits at 2020-2035mhz with the max power at 130. no issues. runs awesome. temps are between 45-50 depends on the game.

I played around with bumping it up. does 2100mhz no issue.


----------



## changboy

Jokesterwild said:


> same, I have the same card. using msi afterburner (same ****) and mine sits at 2020-2035mhz with the max power at 130. no issues. runs awesome. temps are between 45-50 depends on the game.
> 
> I played around with bumping it up. does 2100mhz no issue.


 Why just just use gigabyte overclocking program like i do ? Me i also need it for my rgb led


----------



## mattliston

PiEownz said:


> Hi guys,
> 
> I just installed my Aorus 1080 TI non extreme edition.
> 
> Just a couple things I notice when I tried to overclock. For some reason, I can't get the core clock over +20 MHz. Everytime I play a game like BF1 or use a benchmark like Unigine Heaven, the FPS goes down by half which tells me that it is unstable. I would always have to restart my PC for the FPS to return to normal. I also tried to set the power limit to 120% and the same thing happens, FPS goes lower.
> 
> I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong here but maybe someone can lead me in the right direction. It's also possible that I got a bad card that won't overclock.





When you overclock with an offset, like "+ (insert number)", that is just added to a point on the voltage/clock curve. It becomes completely hit or miss, as the manufacturers decide how the curve looks.





Use MSI afterburner's curve feature. It lets you adjust the actual points on the graph. This allows you to disregard how a manufacturer wanted the card to behave.





Ive gotten 1898mhz on less than 900mV on some 10 series cards. and Im currently sitting at 2050mhz at 1075 mV. I could trim that down a notch in voltage, or I could clock higher, haven't spent a serious amount of time fine tuning.


----------



## Jokesterwild

changboy said:


> Why just just use gigabyte overclocking program like i do ? Me i also need it for my rgb led


I just don't like it. afterburner gives more information on the hardware monitor side. Not just core/mem clock/temp.
I find it easier to use as well. 

I only go into the Aorus engine to set the leds once then close it.


----------



## Hackslash

nvm went one page back... found it


----------



## 2002sn95gt

i made a post on 1080ti owner club, didnt know there was one for aorus 1080ti
https://www.overclock.net/forum/27637686-post17180.html

i have the full water block gigabyte aorus 1080ti for custom loop, im curious what bios i could use for more voltage (im only seeing 1.043 in GPUZ/ afterburner) or if anyone figured out how to mod pascal bios yet.
id like to know more about the pcb and bios.

i had a msi 1070 before this card and its voltage was 1.093 which i believe to be stock founders or reference voltage?


----------



## 2002sn95gt

bios version currently on my card is 86.02.39.00.DC and memory type is GDDR5X (Micron)
gigabyte software is showing bios F60


----------



## changboy

2002sn95gt said:


> bios version currently on my card is 86.02.39.00.DC and memory type is GDDR5X (Micron)
> gigabyte software is showing bios F60


I own the waterblock aorus too and the bios in gpuz is the same then you.


----------



## chrcoluk

nonetheless said:


> Probably a 24/7 mining card with bad airflow, this would rapidly deteriorate the capacitors. Which explains the unstable voltage supply even on stock setings.
> Return it asap.


Dont know, these board partners I believe do not bin chips, and when they factory OC they assume it will just work probably based on good average performance levels of chips.

e.g. I think my chip is below average but I was still able to undervolt it quite a bit from the default voltage curve.

Right now its at.

"profile 4 90% tdp limit 1848 clock 0.925v
profile 3 95% tdp limit 1911 clock 0.95v
profile 2 110% tdp limit 1974 clock 1.012v
todo profile 1 2000+ clock probably achievable with 1.037 or 1.05v, voltage cap is 1.087v"

So yeah my card cannot do 2000mhz at 1.00v either, not even 1974mhz, it was unstable so I boosted the voltage for that profile to 1.012v. But compared to the default voltage curve these figures are a big upgrade.

My card has a 150% TDP bios so 100% TDP is 250 watts for reference.

In the past I owned a evga gtx 970 FTW card, was their 2nd best card for factory overclocks and it was unstable in the shipped config before any kind of changes were done in afterburner.

I think this is the reason why from RTX onwards nvidia require board partners to buy prebinned chips before they allowed to factory OC.


----------



## Spall

Hey all, 

I've been searching for a 1080 Ti since the disappointing RTX launch. This is one of the better models at a reasonable price that can be found new. 

What's the current state of Aorus (Xtreme or not) stability? I'm not really up for taking on a headache cycle of RMAs.. otherwise the card seems to check the boxes for me. 

Thanks!


----------



## chrcoluk

I would guess stability is no worse or better than other brands, providing you get a chip capable of the factory OC the card should be stable.


----------



## mattliston

Doesnt the Aorus have a much beefier VRM/power delivery setup?


I like mine. Much MUCH smoother overclocking experience compared to my old PNY 1070. That particular 1070 had quite a strange voltage gap when shooting for over 2050mhz


----------



## Xboxmember1978

I got my Gigabyte 1080ti xtreme delivered yesterday. I must say I'm blown away by it's performance, cooling and noise. This is my first Pascal card and I'm coming from a Gigabyte 980ti Windforce card for the past 3yrs. I installed this card went straight to MSI Afterburner and upped the Power Target and Voltage to the max since these are all voltage locked anyways. I went to the fan setting and upped it to 100% to see how bad the noise was, that was my first wow moment, I can barely hear them so why not set a aggressive fan curve right? after all isn't that the big thing with Pascal to keep them as cool as possible to prevent any temp throttling, so my curve was 0c-25c @50% fan and 25c-50c curving up to 100% fan. I let it idle for about 30 minutes while doing other stuff around the house and came back to check, it was bouncing between 28c-29c! That was another wow moment. So fired up Shadow of the Tomb Raider and had OSD showing, it went straight to 2038mhz @1.094v, and made sure the GPU usage stayed at 100%. I saw the temps get to 57c before the first boost clock throttle and it went to 2025mhz and I gamed for about an hour and the max temp it went to was 59c! That's awesome temps. I'm not sure yet when the next temp throttle will be at since it runs so cool I'm only seeing it step down one time. This is with my house air temp at 80F(26c) and my opinion once cooler weather gets here in Florida I will be seeing even better temps. I'm just shocked on how this card is doing and since most members seem to be jumping up and down if they can get a steady 2100mhz clock I might as well just leave everything alone as I'm doing great the way it is now and what's 75mhz more really going to do? I'm glad I went with this model card.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Xboxmember1978 said:


> I got my Gigabyte 1080ti xtreme delivered yesterday. I must say I'm blown away by it's performance, cooling and noise. This is my first Pascal card and I'm coming from a Gigabyte 980ti Windforce card for the past 3yrs. I installed this card went straight to MSI Afterburner and upped the Power Target and Voltage to the max since these are all voltage locked anyways. I went to the fan setting and upped it to 100% to see how bad the noise was, that was my first wow moment, I can barely hear them so why not set a aggressive fan curve right? after all isn't that the big thing with Pascal to keep them as cool as possible to prevent any temp throttling, so my curve was 0c-25c @50% fan and 25c-50c curving up to 100% fan. I let it idle for about 30 minutes while doing other stuff around the house and came back to check, it was bouncing between 28c-29c! That was another wow moment. So fired up Shadow of the Tomb Raider and had OSD showing, it went straight to 2038mhz @1.094v, and made sure the GPU usage stayed at 100%. I saw the temps get to 57c before the first boost clock throttle and it went to 2025mhz and I gamed for about an hour and the max temp it went to was 59c! That's awesome temps. I'm not sure yet when the next temp throttle will be at since it runs so cool I'm only seeing it step down one time. This is with my house air temp at 80F(26c) and my opinion once cooler weather gets here in Florida I will be seeing even better temps. I'm just shocked on how this card is doing and since most members seem to be jumping up and down if they can get a steady 2100mhz clock I might as well just leave everything alone as I'm doing great the way it is now and what's 75mhz more really going to do? I'm glad I went with this model card.


you might want try to undervolt ur card, with decent chip u can run under 1v @ 2000mhz. just saying.


----------



## chrcoluk

Is there a way to put the card in permanent standard mode instead of it dynamically switching modes on a reboot.

I am getting issues where on a reboot I have a 50/50 chance my DVI output works as it keeps switching itself to VR mode, and when this happens if I let windows boot, its also detected as a new gpu because the device id changes so I lose afterburner and other settings as well.


----------



## Xboxmember1978

Zfast4y0u said:


> you might want try to undervolt ur card, with decent chip u can run under 1v @ 2000mhz. just saying.


I will give that a whirl, thanks for the advice!




chrcoluk said:


> Is there a way to put the card in permanent standard mode instead of it dynamically switching modes on a reboot.
> 
> I am getting issues where on a reboot I have a 50/50 chance my DVI output works as it keeps switching itself to VR mode, and when this happens if I let windows boot, its also detected as a new gpu because the device id changes so I lose afterburner and other settings as well.


What is this VR mode you speak of? I also game on a Rift and if I need to be in some special mode to get the best out of my new card I'd like to understand what I need to do. Thanks


----------



## chrcoluk

The VR mode is the default mode, it is the ability to use all the hdmi ports, so one on the card in case and 2 more at the back.

In this mode the dvi-d port is disabled.

If something is plugged into the dvi-d port at post then the standard mode is enabled instead and that allows the use of the dvi-d port but the hdmi port internal in the case is disabled and one of the 2 hdmi at the back.

I assume that 2 of the hdmi ports and the dvi-d port are routed through a shared component. The mode switching is automatic, but vcannot change once post is done, so e.g. is fixed in place whilst you in the OS.


----------



## Schrotty

Hi

Whene i will flash the F60 Bios on my Gigabyte Aorus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11g i get this message:

E:\Treiber\NVidia\nvflash>nvflash64 -6 F60.rom
NVIDIA Firmware Update Utility (Version 5.513.0)
Copyright (C) 1993-2018, NVIDIA Corporation. All rights reserved.


Checking for matches between display adapter(s) and image(s)...

Adapter: GeForce GTX 1080 Ti (10DE,1B06,1458,374E) H:--:NRM S:00,B:01,D:00,F:00



EEPROM ID (EF,6013) : WBond W25Q40EW 1.65-1.95V 4096Kx1S, page


WARNING: Firmware image PCI Subsystem ID (1458.3751)
does not match adapter PCI Subsystem ID (1458.374E).

Please press 'y' to confirm override of PCI Subsystem ID's:


----------



## bloodindark

hi guys , sorry but its easier to ask than to search all those pages all over again. i sold my aorus 1080ti to a colleague 2 months ago , now we discussed it and since 2080ti is not what i think it was he gave it back to me . problem is i aded the stock bios to it F#. i believe i had a custom bios from here , or am i wrong?it was like a year and a half ago almost . sorry if i remember wrong


----------



## bloodindark

hi guys , sorry but its easier to ask than to search all those pages all over again. i sold my aorus 1080ti to a colleague 2 months ago , now we discussed it and since 2080ti is not what i think it was he gave it back to me . problem is i aded the stock bios to it F#. i believe i had a custom bios from here , or am i wrong?it was like a year and a half ago almost . sorry if i remember wrong so now i am triying to find that custom bios (


----------



## Scoty

Need F60 or F69 Bios for PCI Subsystem ID 1458.374E please.


----------



## Scoty

Newbstick said:


> Joined the Club today as well, got the Gigabyte AORUS GeForce® GTX 1080 Ti Xtreme Edition 11G


Which Bios have you on your Card? F3, F4 or F60? Whene you have F60, can you extract please and upload?


----------



## Xboxmember1978

So I've owned my Gigabyte Xtreme 1080ti for like 2 weeks now and have some questions. I have moved the power, voltage and temp slider to max and did some tests for clock speed and temps, it wants to boost right to 2038mhz and starts out at 1.062v until it hits 40c, then goes up to 1.075v then at 45c goes up to 1.082v then at 50c to 1.093v and that's where it stays at, even at 1 hour of benching max temps are 58c, it never downclocks and stays at a steady 2038mhz @ 1.093v. I then try to manually overclock by adding to the core offset which the next speed is an even 2050mhz and it goes to the 1.093v but crashes usually within 10-15 minutes and my max temps are only upper 50's, so I know and accept that my card just can't go that high, so onto my questions


(1) I thought GPU Boost 3.0 was suppose to lower the voltage if stable? Then why is it adding more voltage as the temps go up? Seems like that's the opposite of what I thought it should do

(2) I want to try to get the lowest voltage for the 2038mhz that I can so I went into MSI voltage curve and moved the slider for 1.062v to be the first voltage for 2038mhz and hit apply, now I play a game or bench and it still wants to step up the voltage like before and completely ignores what I set it for. Can anyone help me?


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Xboxmember1978 said:


> So I've owned my Gigabyte Xtreme 1080ti for like 2 weeks now and have some questions. I have moved the power, voltage and temp slider to max and did some tests for clock speed and temps, it wants to boost right to 2038mhz and starts out at 1.062v until it hits 40c, then goes up to 1.075v then at 45c goes up to 1.082v then at 50c to 1.093v and that's where it stays at, even at 1 hour of benching max temps are 58c, it never downclocks and stays at a steady 2038mhz @ 1.093v. I then try to manually overclock by adding to the core offset which the next speed is an even 2050mhz and it goes to the 1.093v but crashes usually within 10-15 minutes and my max temps are only upper 50's, so I know and accept that my card just can't go that high, so onto my questions
> 
> 
> (1) I thought GPU Boost 3.0 was suppose to lower the voltage if stable? Then why is it adding more voltage as the temps go up? Seems like that's the opposite of what I thought it should do
> 
> (2) I want to try to get the lowest voltage for the 2038mhz that I can so I went into MSI voltage curve and moved the slider for 1.062v to be the first voltage for 2038mhz and hit apply, now I play a game or bench and it still wants to step up the voltage like before and completely ignores what I set it for. Can anyone help me?




when you set ur desired max voltage/freq on curve you must make sure its the highest on the graph, if there is some values higher ( right of the value you wanna make max ) then it, card will continue boosting to its max voltage/mhz and thats 1.093v @ 2xxxmhz

in ur case just drag all other dots on right side bellow 2038mhz, dosent matter what value, when you hit apply they will be in line with ur 2038mhz @ 1.062v

i have got mine to run @2000mhz under 1v stable. ( 0,962mV)


after u apply, ur curve should look something like picture 2.


ur 2038mhz is highest on graph and card will boost to those clocks max, if u have just one dot on right that is on higher value then 2038mhz, card will boost to that value then.


----------



## Xboxmember1978

Thanks for the detailed help. I did exactly what you said and yes it goes straight to 2038mhz @ 1.062v but I'm getting a weird issue I don't get with the voltage curve at stock because now at 45c I get a clock throttle to 2025mhz at the same 1.062v, when I go into the curve the only marker for 2025mhz is 1.050v, so not only am I getting a clock throttle but also it's still not following the curve because at 2025mhz it should have been at 1.050v per the curve.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Xboxmember1978 said:


> Thanks for the detailed help. I did exactly what you said and yes it goes straight to 2038mhz @ 1.062v but I'm getting a weird issue I don't get with the voltage curve at stock because now at 45c I get a clock throttle to 2025mhz at the same 1.062v, when I go into the curve the only marker for 2025mhz is 1.050v, so not only am I getting a clock throttle but also it's still not following the curve because at 2025mhz it should have been at 1.050v per the curve.




yes, at around 45c you hit first thermal ''throttle'' in gpu boost 3.0 , -13mhz per step. Card is just making sure it dosent burn out so it downclocks a bit to keep temps in check. there is a lot of steps, first one starting at 45c. the hotter ur core is, the more mhz you lose from original clock speed. with decent wc you never hit those step downs but u can avoid em on air too.


----------



## Xboxmember1978

Zfast4y0u said:


> yes, at around 45c you hit first thermal ''throttle'' in gpu boost 3.0 , -13mhz per step. Card is just making sure it dosent burn out so it downclocks a bit to keep temps in check. there is a lot of steps, first one starting at 45c. the hotter ur core is, the more mhz you lose from original clock speed. with decent wc you never hit those step downs but u can avoid em on air too.




However how can that be true since when I leave the voltage cure at default I get no temp throttle step downs? I only see it when I have a custom curve. I can forcefully get a clock speed throttle if I turn my fans down and I hit 60c, I will then see my first -13 throttle but the second I have a custom voltage curve I get it at 45c

So for me I get no -13 step downs with default curve because I don't hit 60c unless I force it that high but custom voltage curve results in a -13 step down at 45c, makes no sense, that's a 15c difference in step down just because of a custom voltage curve


----------



## Zfast4y0u

im not sure, nor i ever heard someone's card dosent clock down by itself on default, no matter what temps. maybe thats aorus perk who knows, maybe someone who own aorus 1080ti can clarify that for u.

if u are concerned about ur card losing clocks while on costume curve, do the following:


set ur max clock/voltage you desire, fire up some benchmark, let fans on like 30% just, not higher, cause u actually want 3.0 to kick in and drop ur clocks as fast as possible so u dont lose time waiting for it to happen. as soon you see in benchmark ur clocks have fallen down, go alt tab, open MSI afterburner graph ( crtl+f ) and find ur dot that you have set to be max clock speed. you will probably see it fallen from 2038mhz to 2025mhz or even lower. take that dot and bring it back to 2038mhz and hit confirm and watch did it move up on graph on 2038mhz. if it didnt, repeat process a few times till it stays at 2038mhz. when you are done, bump up fans on ur desired lvls, save profile, make it ur default, exit benchmark. start benchmark again and observe if clocks drop down again, normally it shouldnt at least not in my case. see how it goes ^^


----------



## Xboxmember1978

Zfast4y0u said:


> im not sure, nor i ever heard someone's card dosent clock down by itself on default, no matter what temps. maybe thats aorus perk who knows, maybe someone who own aorus 1080ti can clarify that for u.
> 
> if u are concerned about ur card losing clocks while on costume curve, do the following:
> 
> 
> set ur max clock/voltage you desire, fire up some benchmark, let fans on like 30% just, not higher, cause u actually want 3.0 to kick in and drop ur clocks as fast as possible so u dont lose time waiting for it to happen. as soon you see in benchmark ur clocks have fallen down, go alt tab, open MSI afterburner graph ( crtl+f ) and find ur dot that you have set to be max clock speed. you will probably see it fallen from 2038mhz to 2025mhz or even lower. take that dot and bring it back to 2038mhz and hit confirm and watch did it move up on graph on 2038mhz. if it didnt, repeat process a few times till it stays at 2038mhz. when you are done, bump up fans on ur desired lvls, save profile, make it ur default, exit benchmark. start benchmark again and observe if clocks drop down again, normally it shouldnt at least not in my case. see how it goes ^^



I'll give that a try, just to clarify, my card will downclock at defaults BUT I have to force it to because my temps run very cool for my setup even on air, I see max temps 58c/59c and it will not downclock unless I make the temp hit the 60c mark either by turning the fans down or covering up my case with a towel to make it rise


----------



## Zfast4y0u

maybe you have hit first downclocking step already, u just didnt notice it at all, that at 60c should be the second i think. 45-47c is first downclocking step, im sure in that 100%.

also if u have aorus clock/voltage control software installed, it would be wise to uninstall it. it can cause conflicts with other softwares of same type like msi afterburner for example, both wanna control the card. that is if you prefer msi afterburner over aorus program for same thing.


----------



## Xboxmember1978

Xboxmember1978 said:


> I'll give that a try, just to clarify, my card will downclock at defaults BUT I have to force it to because my temps run very cool for my setup even on air, I see max temps 58c/59c and it will not downclock unless I make the temp hit the 60c mark either by turning the fans down or covering up my case with a towel to make it rise


I have double checked it many of times, for example I will idle between 26c-28c and as soon as I fire up a game or benchmark I watch my sensors via OSD and it goes straight to 2038mhz and I watch the temps rise from low 30's all the way up and I see no -13 throttle at all. I'm 100% positive my first -13 step is at 60c. I don't have Gigabyte software installed. Here is a video I just made starting from idle to 52c without any throttle


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Xboxmember1978 said:


> I have double checked it many of times, for example I will idle between 26c-28c and as soon as I fire up a game or benchmark I watch my sensors via OSD and it goes straight to 2038mhz and I watch the temps rise from low 30's all the way up and I see no -13 throttle at all. I'm 100% positive my first -13 step is at 60c. I don't have Gigabyte software installed. Here is a video I just made starting from idle to 52c without any throttle https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OAlJqcmPr04


and what is your max clock speed set in grpah at default? 2038mhz? if that is true then somehow on default ur first downclock step is at 60c which is strange. anyway dosent really matter, try out the trick i told you and see if it works.


----------



## Xboxmember1978

Zfast4y0u said:


> and what is your max clock speed set in grpah at default? 2038mhz? if that is true then somehow on default ur first downclock step is at 60c which is strange. anyway dosent really matter, try out the trick i told you and see if it works.



Yes, 2038mhz is the highest in the graph at default, so I guess I have an usual card? Here is my default voltage curve


----------



## chrcoluk

Ok the reason you seen no clock speed drops on your max everything out setup was that you mentioned when the temps went up the voltage increased, normally the voltage bump would also increase your speed, but a higher voltage with a speed bin drop would give you same clock speed. So there is nothing confusing about what you posted.

The suggested voltage curve setup that keeps your 2038mhz at higher temps is so that you save the speed with the speed bin drop included, meaning next time it drops to low temps it will clock higher than 2038, but then drop to 2038 after 60C, this is good for keeping your target clock speed but it needs your card to be stable at higher speeds, otherwise the gpu may crash whilst ramping up the speed. Me personally I wouldnt care about a drop of 13mhz, its nothing, but the solution suggested to you will work fine as long as the card is also stable at 2050mhz at that voltage.

The reason the card is going straight to 2038, is it simply looks like you have unlocked refresh rates meaning the card is always fully under load, if you lock it to say 60fps, the card will be not be fully utilised and will likely see lower clocks in use.


----------



## XPG

I need to change thermal pads.

How thick thermal pads do i need for Gigabyte Aorus GTX 1080 Ti cooler ?

0.5mm to 2mm ? 

And which thermal pads are the best overall ?

Thanks!


----------



## XPG

So nobody knows ?


----------



## mattliston

go back one page and there is a big picture describing the sizes


----------



## XPG

=




Thermal conductivity: 3.5 W/mK (+/-0.35) 
General dimensions: Type G (120 x 24 mm)
Thickness: 2.0 mm 
Working Temperature: -55 ~ +200°C
Hardness: 5 (Shore A)
Elongation: 100% 
Specific Gravity: 2.6 g/cm3 (+/- 0.2)
Flame Rating: V-0
Dielectric Breakdown Voltage: >4kV
Volume Resistance: > 10^11 Ohm-m
Main ingredient: Aluminum oxide (Al2O3) 85-95%


----------



## XPG

These thermal pads will be good enough ? Better than stock ones ?https://www.ekwb.com/shop/thermal-pad-g-2-0mm-120x24mm


Thermal conductivity: 3.5 W/mK (+/-0.35) 
General dimensions: Type G (120 x 24 mm)
Thickness: 2.0 mm 
Working Temperature: -55 ~ +200°C
Hardness: 5 (Shore A)
Elongation: 100% 
Specific Gravity: 2.6 g/cm3 (+/- 0.2)
Flame Rating: V-0
Dielectric Breakdown Voltage: >4kV
Volume Resistance: > 10^11 Ohm-m
Main ingredient: Aluminum oxide (Al2O3) 85-95%


----------



## mattliston

The stock thermal pads work just fine.


Either upgrade to something like the fuji pads with MUCH more thermal conductivity, or simply increase the fan speed a little bit.


----------



## Scoty

Last time, I NEED THE F60 BIOS please for my Card!!! I have post here now 3 time but never answer. This sucks.


----------



## Fubster

You can find attached the F60 ROM from my card.
And you please be gentle. It brings you further in your life.


----------



## Smiki007

*BIOS Aorus gtx 1080Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme*

Hi to all,
I'm new here and I need some help:
Recently I've bought two Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme vga cards from Amazon (used like new). When I installed them in my PC and connected my 120Hz monitor via DVI-D link the nvidia control panel not shovin DVI-D connection but HDMI and Monitor Refresh Rate is locked to 60Hz. I think that is some problem with the BIOS. I did not connect the SLI HB Bridge. Could someone of you guys send me the original BIOS for these GPUs.
Thanks in advance.


----------



## Smiki007

Problem Solved, everything working as a charm.


----------



## Jesper

Has anyone opened up the card cause i wanna clean the inside of it. if so can you tell me how.


----------



## Jokesterwild

Jesper said:


> Has anyone opened up the card cause i wanna clean the inside of it. if so can you tell me how.


the waterblock? if so you have to heat up the top and peel the two-piece decals off to get to the bolts. its actually kinda annoying they didn't put holes in the decals for each bolt.


----------



## Smiki007

Smiki007 said:


> Problem Solved, everything working as a charm.


I was wrong. The problem still exists. 

Please guys I need this BIOS 86.02.39.00.DC DVI version, (all versions listed on Techpowerup are 3x DisplayPort, 3x HDMI), for Aorus GTX 1080Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition GPU.


----------



## Smiki007

Smiki007 said:


> I was wrong. The problem still exists.
> 
> Please guys I need this BIOS 86.02.39.00.DC DVI version, (all versions listed on Techpowerup are 3x DisplayPort, 3x HDMI), for Aorus GTX 1080Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition GPU.


Now it is solved. Found original BIOS on one German forum. Flashed both GPUs and everything is OK.
PS. I attached the file, if anyone need this BIOS for Aorus GTX 1080Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition. (rename txt to rom).


----------



## mattliston

Thanks for providing the vbios. Im sure it will come in handy for other users on here <thumb-up>


----------



## CMDRZOD

I've been having issues with the Aorus 1080Ti Waterblock Extreme cards I purchased in January. When I use them with my TPCast VR wireless adapter, I get intermittent black screens that last about 10 seconds. If I'm using HDMI audio, when the image returns another audio source will be selected. 

It's a real pain when playing VR games and the screen suddenly goes black, but comes back with no audio. I've since switched to USB audio which doesn't seem quite as crisp, but will always maintain audio even when the screen on the Vive goes black. After a recent SteamVR update, when image resumes it is usually capped at 30FPS in the VR headset. One time it was 15FPS. So now when this issue happens it is no longer recoverable, I must restart SteamVR to regain 90FPS in the headset.

This never once happened while I had Asus 980Ti. The issue began immediately when I upgraded to the Aorus 1080Ti. I have tried going back the the 3 in 1 Vive cable, and it performs flawlessly. I have also tried using DP to HDMI adapters, powered HDMI signal boosters, new cables and nothing helps.

This black screen happens mostly at random, usually 10-60 minutes in game. Also it usually occurs when there is a dark scene being displayed. Recently I found a very new Vbios and I figured, what do I have to lose. Built on May 8 2018 according to techpowerup. BIOS version: 86.02.39.40.5E. 

It didn't change anything for me. But it seems to be working fine. My cards came from factory with BIOS: 86.02.39.00.DC.

Other than this issue with the TPCast the cards are quite nice. Seem to work great, clock to 2060Mhz all day. Hopefully one day I can find a solution to my issue. I realize its a niche case, but its not unheard of with the TPCast and the Gigabyte 10** series. I have contacted tech support at Gigabyte and they pretty much told me there is nothing they will do as it is too niche of use case.


----------



## Hoovercraft

Hey guys,


This is my first post here. In case such issue was already mentioned here, please forgive me but I didn't have time to review all 260+ pages of the thread.


I bought a used Aorus 1080 Ti. I can OC it to around 2100MHz core and it does great in Superposition (bit over 10500 4K optimized) reaching maximum power of just above 140%. However after a benchmark or two the power target drops mid-run. Clocks and voltage stay the same but power and FPS are cut in half. I tried different voltage curve profiles. I crank the fans up as I don't care that much about silence so the temps always stay below 70c. The problem goes away after a reboot only to appear again after a couple of benchmarks.


My specs:
Asus z97 Pro
i5 4690k @4.5GHz
16GB DDR3 @2400MHz
PSU: EVGA 750 G2

BIOS is the latest version for both MOBO and GPU
Drivers version 416.34



What I have already discovered is that when I set the fans to 100% the card seems to work at max for a little bit longer. Is it possible that some components other than the core are overheating (RAM, VRM) which triggers some kind of a failsafe that is only reset after a reboot?


Is it possible I got a faulty GPU? Any advice will be greatly aprreciated. Thanks!


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Hoovercraft said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> 
> This is my first post here. In case such issue was already mentioned here, please forgive me but I didn't have time to review all 260+ pages of the thread.
> 
> 
> I bought a used Aorus 1080 Ti. I can OC it to around 2100MHz core and it does great in Superposition (bit over 10500 4K optimized) reaching maximum power of just above 140%. However after a benchmark or two the power target drops mid-run. Clocks and voltage stay the same but power and FPS are cut in half. I tried different voltage curve profiles. I crank the fans up as I don't care that much about silence so the temps always stay below 70c. The problem goes away after a reboot only to appear again after a couple of benchmarks.
> 
> 
> My specs:
> Asus z97 Pro
> i5 4690k @4.5GHz
> 16GB DDR3 @2400MHz
> PSU: EVGA 750 G2
> 
> BIOS is the latest version for both MOBO and GPU
> Drivers version 416.34
> 
> 
> 
> What I have already discovered is that when I set the fans to 100% the card seems to work at max for a little bit longer. Is it possible that some components other than the core are overheating (RAM, VRM) which triggers some kind of a failsafe that is only reset after a reboot?
> 
> 
> Is it possible I got a faulty GPU? Any advice will be greatly aprreciated. Thanks!





do u have TV connected to the card too? friend of mine is having same issue like u do, he fixed it with bios reflashing. but the issue keeps re apearing when he goes overclocking for some reason. on stock it works fine.

you own aorus 1080ti extreme?


----------



## Hoovercraft

Zfast4y0u said:


> do u have TV connected to the card too? friend of mine is having same issue like u do, he fixed it with bios reflashing. but the issue keeps re apearing when he goes overclocking for some reason. on stock it works fine.
> 
> you own aorus 1080ti extreme?



Normally I do have a TV connected aside from the monitor but not at the time of testing. For me it also seems to be working fine on stock, I will confirm it in a couple of benches. I own the non-extreme version of Aorus 1080 Ti.


I just updated the BIOS to the latest one from Gigabyte's website. Or do you mean some custom BIOS your friend used?


EDIT:


So I ran Heaven for an hour on stock (I don't have the full version of Superposition to run a stress test), run a couple of Superposition benchmarks and everything seems to be working fine. Same for some mild OC - 2050 core and 5950 mem. This would be OK as it is but I feel that my card is capable of doing better, especially that it does run a benchmark or two at 2100MHz and more.



Or maybe this is just how the card behaves when reaching its OC limits? So far I was used to the driver just crashing when the clock frequency was too high.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

Hoovercraft said:


> Normally I do have a TV connected aside from the monitor but not at the time of testing. For me it also seems to be working fine on stock, I will confirm it in a couple of benches. I own the non-extreme version of Aorus 1080 Ti.
> 
> 
> I just updated the BIOS to the latest one from Gigabyte's website. Or do you mean some custom BIOS your friend used?
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> 
> So I ran Heaven for an hour on stock (I don't have the full version of Superposition to run a stress test), run a couple of Superposition benchmarks and everything seems to be working fine. Same for some mild OC - 2050 core and 5950 mem. This would be OK as it is but I feel that my card is capable of doing better, especially that it does run a benchmark or two at 2100MHz and more.
> 
> 
> 
> Or maybe this is just how the card behaves when reaching its OC limits? So far I was used to the driver just crashing when the clock frequency was too high.




no no, i ment on cards default bios.

friend of mine has same issue like u do, but on aorus extreme. hes of a opinion that his tv connected to the card ''causes'' this issues, but from ur example, u have same problem without tv connected, leaving it to when overclocking, issue appears. i honestly dont know what exactly is causing it, i dont think there is cooling issue with some components like core/vram/vrm but if its not problem to you, might wanna check those thermal pads, are they properly placed and everything.. i would just to have peace of a mind on that potential issue.

its really strange behavior that clock speeds stay same but card delivers only about half performance overall.

u might wanna go on aorus forum and post there ur issue too, you are not only one with it.

normally when you reach ur overclocking limits, u either get freezes or stright out driver crashing, and artifacts if u oc memory too much, i never experienced performance cut in half and clocks staying the same. might wanna monitor ur vrm temps and compare em with temps when u get this issue again.


another thing, if u are using 2 overclocking programs at same time like msi afterburner and aorus its own software, that can cause issues, cause both programs wanna control what card does.


----------



## camaros68

*Aorus Gtx 1080ti xtrime SLI with one windforcew and one Waterforce*

I guys, 

I hope this forum is still alive for some help! I recently purchased a second Aorus gtx 1080ti also extreme edition but this one is with the fans model and the other is AIO water-cooled model. Does anybody try that type of setup? Please someone if can help I really will appreciate it!


----------



## mattliston

<double-post, cannot delete for some reason>


----------



## mattliston

As long as it is a 1080 TI with an SLI spot, you can SLI it to your heart's content. It simply means you are stuck running the slowest of the TWO card's clocks.


Install each card individually, and give it a good test. Test multiple voltage levels, and write each down. It should only need the selections from 1.050 to 1.1 volts, like 8-10 points, tested. 



Use curve clocking to your advantage, and then repeat with teh other card.


Compare your findings, and you can easily and trouble-free, figure out a nice overclock that both can do without any long hours of trial and error trying to find it with both cards present.


----------



## camaros68

Here is what I have done:

I tested both cards separately and since I have one of them for more than an year I played with it a lot. So following this logical path I installed the new one and overclocked with the same curve, play some games and so on- worked good. And you know, when is a single card in use I hit 90-100% of usage, in SLI 60-70% on a card same fps as a single card performance! The overclock is stable but the results are not good enough. It feels like the CPU bottlenecks. I check some videos in YouTube and the guy have the same issue with SLI playing Far Cry 5 both GPUs do not work on full potential. I even start thinking my PSU is not powerful enough but if aorus gtx1080 ti is not overclocked it use 350 watt so 2 of those and the rest of the system should be fine with 1000 watt PSU. I am about to give up on this SLI set up. I am not sure what improvement to expect and how many fps to gain! Also the new Nvidia drivers are buggy I have some screen flickering and I feel like I am not doing the right thing in the right time. Furthermore with the new gen of GPUs the SLI it will leave behind.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

fc5 has terrible sli support, u gain like 20 fps more over 1 card, if u have fc4 test it out, if you have no cpu bottleneck, you should be pretty damn close to 100% scaling, maybe 2-3% less. and gpu usage should be 100% on both of em.

i used fc4 for stability test with oc on my setup, since scaling is so great, i can see how oc behaves in actual gaming when pushed to the limit.


----------



## Noufel

Hi people, 
i have a lil probleme with LED control on my Aorus Xtreme, it's not working at all even with last Aorus engine version
Specs:
8700k 4.8
16 gigs 3200
MSI M5 z370 mb
CM 1000V psu
1080 ti Aorus Xtreme with 416.94 driver
thnx in advance for your help


----------



## makatech

New Aorus 1080 Ti 11G owner here, I bought it used (yes, I am brave) and hopefully everything will be fine, so far so good... ;-) Looks like my slightly overclocked Ryzen 5 1600X will handle it in most situations and hopefully my 600W psu as well.

I don't game a lot but when I do I want a good experience. I wanted to upgrade while my old tiny MSI GTX 1070 ITX OC card still having some value. Another big reason for a better card is my 1440p 165Hz monitor.

Question about overclocking and tweaking the card (fans etc), I haven't tried this yet.

Two questions:
1. If any of you have recommendations for overclocking the Aorus 1080 Ti 11G card I would be thankful. Safe/good but not maximized settings would be fine.
2. I wonder what kind of software you are using for tweaking your Aorus 1080 Ti 11G card? MSI Afterburner (which I am used to) or using the software from Gigabyte, anything else?

Recommendations will be highly appreciated.


----------



## makatech

Second day owning this card and doing some tests, I believe everything is looking good? The used Aorus GeForce GTX 1080 ti I bought is healthy (I think).

I haven't installed the software from Gigabyte (yet), only using MSI Afterburner. I don't really have to overclock, tweaking/testing the performance is more for fun.

CPU: Ryzen 5 1600X slightly overlocked to 3,85GHz (vcore 1.344).

Monitor: 1440p, 165Hz

Nvidia driver: 416.94

bios version for my 1080 ti card: 86.02.39.00.9D

So far having tried three different settings in Afterburner and testing the Time Spy benchmark.

1. Only touching the power limit, raising to 125
2. Only touching the power limit, raising to 150
3. Having power limit on 125
Core clock +40
Memory clock +250

1 and 2 is giving me very similar results in Time Spy, 9167 (1) vs 9158 (2)

3 is giving me 9326 (graphics score 10154).

Finally, original score before touching Afterburner was 8972

(I assume higher oc easily is possible but this was my initial tests.)

This is a quiet forum, everybody going for the new 2080 series except me? ;-)


----------



## Zfast4y0u

go overclock on curve and see do u gain higher clocks. if i use slider, i cant go above 2050mhz, on curve i can go up to 2150mhz.


----------



## makatech

Zfast4y0u said:


> go overclock on curve and see do u gain higher clocks. if i use slider, i cant go above 2050mhz, on curve i can go up to 2150mhz.


I have done some overclock attempts since my last post and I noticed one thing: Keeping the temperatures down by using a more agressive fancurve helps a lot for stable oc.

Question: When you suggest "go overclock on curve" do you refer to an approach similar to this guide?
https://forums.evga.com/Guide-How-t...-overclock-with-msi-afterburner-m2820280.aspx


----------



## avioni

makatech said:


> I have done some overclock attempts since my last post and I noticed one thing: Keeping the temperatures down by using a more agressive fancurve helps a lot for stable oc.
> 
> Question: When you suggest "go overclock on curve" do you refer to an approach similar to this guide?
> https://forums.evga.com/Guide-How-t...-overclock-with-msi-afterburner-m2820280.aspx


yes that is the way you OC with curve. mine too has higher capability using the curve. and yes temps also make or brake stability


----------



## makatech

avioni said:


> yes that is the way you OC with curve. mine too has higher capability using the curve. and yes temps also make or brake stability


Referring to this guide:
https://forums.evga.com/Guide-How-t...-overclock-with-msi-afterburner-m2820280.aspx

I think it works (!) following this guide :-D using a curve is so much better comparing to just playing around like a newbie using the slides.

So far I have only been trying different core clock frequencies on curves using 1093mv (2025MHz core clock) and one slightly lower clock (using 1075mv I think). When I have more time I will play around using lower voltage. I haven't pushed it to maximum yet and I assume I will be able to go higher than 2025 Mhz on 1093mv.

Not sure if it is realistic aiming for a 1000mv 2000MHz setup with my Aorus 1080 ti card? 

Question 1: Using a curve setting core clock and voltage will be locked under full load but it will still downclock when not gaming, right? (gpu in 2d mode while surfing, watching youtube etc).

Question 2: I believe my psu have two 12 rails and If I understand it correctly it is recommended using both of them for this card comparing to using only one together with a splitter, correct? (I am currently using a splitter)

Question 3: Will using a curve like this be tougher on the card?

I currently have this psu:
https://www.bequiet.com/en/powersupply/933

It would be nice with some higher power and a gold certified but it is working.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

yes, lot of ppl got used overclocking on slider, cause of how it worked with older generations, not many actually know how slider oc works on pascal and onward.

i just roll my eyes when someone write ''i oc my 1080/2080 +70 on core ''


btw, u might try go for under 1v @ 2000mhz and work ur way up. on 1.062v i can hit 2100mhz+.. and thats default voltage




makatech said:


> Question 1: Using a curve setting core clock and voltage will be locked under full load but it will still downclock when not gaming, right? (gpu in 2d mode while surfing, watching youtube etc).



yes, configuring ur highest clock in curve does just that, setting limit to which card will boost to, u might get some -13mhz downclocking steps cause of temps and boost 3.0 . there is guide how to disable that too, search on web.




makatech said:


> Question 2: I believe my psu have two 12 rails and If I understand it correctly it is recommended using both of them for this card comparing to using only one together with a splitter, correct? (I am currently using a splitter)



idk how much 12v rails ur psu have, u need to check that urself, but for 1080ti it is ''recommended'' that you use 2 separate 8 pin cables, plugged in each connector, i did run mine with 2x8 pin on single cable and didnt have any issues. however if u oc, idk what can happen.



makatech said:


> Question 3: Will using a curve like this be tougher on the card?


huh? point of curve oc is to fine tune ur overclock. slider cant do that.


----------



## makatech

Zfast4y0u said:


> yes, lot of ppl got used overclocking on slider, cause of how it worked with older generations, not many actually know how slider oc works on pascal and onward.
> 
> i just roll my eyes when someone write ''i oc my 1080/2080 +70 on core ''
> 
> btw, u might try go for under 1v @ 2000mhz and work ur way up. on 1.062v i can hit 2100mhz+.. and thats default voltage
> 
> yes, configuring ur highest clock in curve does just that, setting limit to which card will boost to, u might get some -13mhz downclocking steps cause of temps and boost 3.0 . there is guide how to disable that too, search on web.
> 
> idk how much 12v rails ur psu have, u need to check that urself, but for 1080ti it is ''recommended'' that you use 2 separate 8 pin cables, plugged in each connector, i did run mine with 2x8 pin on single cable and didnt have any issues. however if u oc, idk what can happen.
> 
> huh? point of curve oc is to fine tune ur overclock. slider cant do that.


Thanks for your reply and advices.

I'm still a bit confused about overclocking using a curve though, it seems like it locks my gpu core clock at maximum mhz and also VDDC (watching in gpu-z) even when I am not pushing the computer. When the computer is idling in Windows too, is this the way it is supposed to work when using the voltage/frequency curve?

Also I am having some issues with using custom fan curve in MSI Afterburner, sometimes I have big problems enabling the custom fan curve, some very confusing sporadic behavior.

Exactly which card do you have and what kind of cooling?

I have this one:
https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD


----------



## Zfast4y0u

makatech said:


> Thanks for your reply and advices.
> 
> I'm still a bit confused about overclocking using a curve though, it seems like it locks my gpu core clock at maximum mhz and also VDDC (watching in gpu-z) even when I am not pushing the computer. When the computer is idling in Windows too, is this the way it is supposed to work when using the voltage/frequency curve?
> 
> Also I am having some issues with using custom fan curve in MSI Afterburner, sometimes I have big problems enabling the custom fan curve, some very confusing sporadic behavior.
> 
> Exactly which card do you have and what kind of cooling?
> 
> I have this one:
> https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-11GD



ur card should never boost to its maximum clock speeds set in curve ( IN WINDOWS), max to what ur card should boost to, is ur advertised boost speeds for your card ( you have base clock and boost clock in card specs, check it out and compare ). maximum boost clock in curve set by you should work just in 3D workloads. if u play some weak and old games u can experience downclocks too cause card dosent need so much power.

in 3D workloads its normal that ur card is locked to ur desired oc and voltage set for it, it wont go up and down. when you exit the game and dosent do anything, after few secs ur clocks should drop all the way to 139mhz ( some ppl report they need up to 1-2 min for their cards, i guess it matters what card and bios u are running too, but cant confirm ) or maybe higher, depending what u are running in background, some ppl had issues, their cards never downclocked cause of multi monitor setup's.

u might wanna check in nvidia control panel if ur card is set to ''optimal power''. if its set on maximum performance i think then it wont drop clocks at all and it might hold that oc on urs then all the time.


idk about ur issues with fan control in MSI AF, i never used it, my card is water cooled. ( 1080ti oc strix from asus )

in case u are using 2 overclocking programs at same time, uninstall one of em. it create conflicts and all sort of problems, maybe thats what happening to u with setting up ur fan curve.


----------



## makatech

Zfast4y0u said:


> ur card should never boost to its maximum clock speeds set in curve ( IN WINDOWS), max to what ur card should boost to, is ur advertised boost speeds for your card ( you have base clock and boost clock in card specs, check it out and compare ). maximum boost clock in curve set by you should work just in 3D workloads. if u play some weak and old games u can experience downclocks too cause card dosent need so much power.
> 
> in 3D workloads its normal that ur card is locked to ur desired oc and voltage set for it, it wont go up and down. when you exit the game and dosent do anything, after few secs ur clocks should drop all the way to 139mhz ( some ppl report they need up to 1-2 min for their cards, i guess it matters what card and bios u are running too, but cant confirm ) or maybe higher, depending what u are running in background, some ppl had issues, their cards never downclocked cause of multi monitor setup's.
> 
> u might wanna check in nvidia control panel if ur card is set to ''optimal power''. if its set on maximum performance i think then it wont drop clocks at all and it might hold that oc on urs then all the time.
> 
> idk about ur issues with fan control in MSI AF, i never used it, my card is water cooled. ( 1080ti oc strix from asus )
> 
> in case u are using 2 overclocking programs at same time, uninstall one of em. it create conflicts and all sort of problems, maybe thats what happening to u with setting up ur fan curve.


Water cooled, nice. I have learned one thing now both for CPU and GPU overclocking. Lower temperatures during max load dramatically helps stability, huge difference. I have been aware of this before (of course) but I didn't realize until now the limits and how much it matters. (The temperatures where you may run into stability issues are lower than I first thought.) Now water cooling solutions etc makes all the sense in the world for me. ;-) If not caring about oc and pushing maximum performance of your computer then it's not necessary though. Some of the different test suites for CPU and GPU stresstesting and benchmarks is pushing the system really, really hard, thus raising the temperatures.

Thanks, I believe fan control was user related ;-) it works fine. The three different modes in Afterburner for the fan was not super clear from a user interface perspective (manual, auto and using fan curve), room for improvement.

About downclocking in Windows during idle, I'm still very confused about this on my computer but I need to do more tests, I have done some googling and it looks like some different settings may (possibly) have an impact on this.

Summarize: For me idling in Windows work if I doing a basic oc in Afterburner not using a curve. For overclocking using curve gpu frequency for core and memory gets stuck at very high levels and never downclocks during idle in Windows.

EDIT: Hmmm, sorry, perhaps I missed the final ctrl+l in the curve editor before applying my oc curve, embarrassing..... Time for some more testing. ;-)

Darkness: Hitting ctrl+l mean I would have to Manually deactivate my oc from Afterburner when using a curve (if I want it to downclock when idling in Windows when not playing)? It's no way getting this to work automatically? GPU oc using a curve really locks GPU core, memory and voltage?


----------



## makatech

I believe I got overclocking using a curve to work, the problem was the missing ctrl+l at the end before applying and saving my profile.

My impression is that my Aorus 1080 ti achieve the highest clock speeds with more voltage though, for stable clock above 2000MHz I have to use 1.05mv but 1.093mv is even better.


----------



## fat4l

Hi. Does someone know how this works ? It says it changed stuff but in afterburner the voltage stays the same. hmmmm

Its XOC tool for 1080Ti/1080 strix cards.


----------



## V5-aps

makatech said:


> Not sure if it is realistic aiming for a 1000mv 2000MHz setup with my Aorus 1080 ti card?


I'm running my Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti, with curve method, at 2025Mhz using only 0.981mV, but I am water cooled.

I've also found that Nvidia Driver 391.35 was more stable than the latest driver. Not tried any other drivers.

What drivers are people using and how are finding stability between drivers. This is the first time I've reverted to an older driver set for greater stability.


----------



## makatech

V5-aps said:


> I'm running my Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti, with curve method, at 2025Mhz using only 0.981mV, but I am water cooled.
> 
> I've also found that Nvidia Driver 391.35 was more stable than the latest driver. Not tried any other drivers.
> 
> What drivers are people using and how are finding stability between drivers. This is the first time I've reverted to an older driver set for greater stability.


Oh, water cooled makes a huge difference for sure.  Do you mind sharing your water cooling setup? I'm starting to get more curious about water cooling my Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti.

Recently installed the Corsair H115i Platinum aio in a push pull setup (4 x 140 mm fans) for cooling my cpu which is working really good but this also made me curious about water cooling my 1080 ti. ;-) Since I installed the h115i in front pulling air into the case through the radiator it actually raised gpu temps a bit, nothing serious but it's still annoying me.

Fans and radiator configuration makes me crazy, I want to try all different setups but it's time consuming. ;-)


----------



## V5-aps

makatech said:


> Oh, water cooled makes a huge difference for sure.  Do you mind sharing your water cooling setup? I'm starting to get more curious about water cooling my Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti.
> 
> Recently installed the Corsair H115i Platinum aio in a push pull setup (4 x 140 mm fans) for cooling my cpu which is working really good but this also made me curious about water cooling my 1080 ti. ;-) Since I installed the h115i in front pulling air into the case through the radiator it actually raised gpu temps a bit, nothing serious but it's still annoying me.
> 
> Fans and radiator configuration makes me crazy, I want to try all different setups but it's time consuming. ;-)


I'm running a 480 and 280mm rad setup in Corsair 750D, with EK pump/res; EK cpu water block and Phanteks block on the Aorus. Fans are all 140mm Phanteks.


----------



## Long Do

I have a question. Is there any good water block for this card. as i looking over internet only find Phanteks and EK. but im not a big fan of them. please suggest 
thank you


----------



## V5-aps

Only other one I know of is the Bykski Gigabyte AORUS GTX 1080 Ti


----------



## avioni

does the XOC bios work on our cards? or any mods there for them?


----------



## Wbroach23

The Highest I can Clock my Aorus WB Edition with out problems and not fiddling with the voltages isL

+50 on the Core
+340 on the Mem

It ran like that also with the GPU Voltage % in the Aorus software at -1 but I get higher scores in Firestrike and Timespy with it set to +35

I run Power at 140

Should I be able to go further you think considering Im underwater? This is my first Nvidia Card BTW lol.


----------



## jura11

Wbroach23 said:


> The Highest I can Clock my Aorus WB Edition with out problems and not fiddling with the voltages isL
> 
> +50 on the Core
> +340 on the Mem
> 
> It ran like that also with the GPU Voltage % in the Aorus software at -1 but I get higher scores in Firestrike and Timespy with it set to +35
> 
> I run Power at 140
> 
> Should I be able to go further you think considering Im underwater? This is my first Nvidia Card BTW lol.


Hi there 

Hard to say, all depends on temperatures and silicone lottery 

I owned 3 Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme, all of them are run under water and temperatures on first I have seen 36-38°C as max with 2088MHz OC with 1.093v as max with +450MHz on VRAM, other two are running in SLI and with OC at 2075-2088MHz as max at 1.093v and +450MHz on VRAM with temperatures on 36-38°C first one and on second temperatures has been in 40-43°C as max 

At 1.093v FireStrike scores has been bit lower than with 1.075v 

I would suggest get MSI Afterburner and try OC through this SW

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## jura11

Long Do said:


> I have a question. Is there any good water block for this card. as i looking over internet only find Phanteks and EK. but im not a big fan of them. please suggest
> thank you


Hi there 

I have used or tried Phanteks Glacier which is one of the best waterblock on market but have used as well Bykski one on one build 

I would suggest Phanteks Glacier or Bykski one

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## avioni

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> Hard to say, all depends on temperatures and silicone lottery
> 
> I owned 3 Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme, all of them are run under water and temperatures on first I have seen 36-38°C as max with 2088MHz OC with 1.093v as max with +450MHz on VRAM, other two are running in SLI and with OC at 2075-2088MHz as max at 1.093v and +450MHz on VRAM with temperatures on 36-38°C first one and on second temperatures has been in 40-43°C as max
> 
> At 1.093v FireStrike scores has been bit lower than with 1.075v
> 
> I would suggest get MSI Afterburner and try OC through this SW
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


hi there, what did your water loop consist of? I have one of these cards on a bykski block and after 30 minutes stressing the card i was getting 53c on it with a ek coolstream PE 360 radiator, i then added a second radiator ek coolstream XE 360 and now the card stressed for 30 minutes sits at 40c. this is with liquid metal on the die. my ambient temp is around 26-27c. so what did your loop have and what are your ambient temps?


----------



## jura11

avioni said:


> hi there, what did your water loop consist of? I have one of these cards on a bykski block and after 30 minutes stressing the card i was getting 53c on it with a ek coolstream PE 360 radiator, i then added a second radiator ek coolstream XE 360 and now the card stressed for 30 minutes sits at 40c. this is with liquid metal on the die. my ambient temp is around 26-27c. so what did your loop have and what are your ambient temps?


Hi there

First loop consist from Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme with Phanteks Glacier WB and X99 5930k with 4.6Ghz and EK Supermacy EVO WB, EK PE360 on top with Noctua NF-F12 and on bottom Mayhems Havoc 240mm 60mm thick radiator with EK Vardar F3 1850RPM, case we are used Phanteks Enthoo Primo and Barrow reservoir with Laing D5 pump

Water delta T during the load or gaming we are seen 5-7.5°C as max with fans spinning at 800-1000RPM, fans has been controlled through Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro, GPU temperatures we are seen as lowest 33°C and max 38°C in gaming or FireStrike loop 

On GPU as TIM I have used Noctua NT-H1 and on CPU I have used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut

Second loop has consisted from 8700k with 5.0GHz OC, Maximus X Formula, Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme with Phanteks Glacier WB in SLI, Barrow DDC pump with reservoir, HWLabs GTS360 on top,HWLabs SR-2 240mm on bottom, fans on friend request we are used Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition(these fans has been pretty disappointing, they just didn't push enough air through the radiator and been pretty noisy) which I wouldn't use again and case we are used again Enthoo Primo 

Temperatures hasn't been bad for such loop with temperatures in 38°C on one GPU and on other 43°C as max after stress testing or FireStrike loop or during the gaming 

Water delta T has been in 6-8°C as max with fans spinning at 1000-1200RPM as max, fans has been controlled again through Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro

In both cases we ambient temperature has been in 23-25°C as max 

In second loop we are run to some issues with WB, friend bought used WB and with thermal pads which has been damaged or seller used too thin pads on mosfets and GPU temperatures has been in high 50's to mid 60's under load and idle temperatures been in 44-46°C which I would say has been way too high, at the end I reused thermal pads from EK Hydro Copper GTX1080Ti FTW3 which still think are on on thick side but at least temperatures dropped to 40-43°C not like in previously temperatures has been in 60's which is way too high for any water cooled GPUs 

Now temperatures are within 4-6°C from each other in gaming or rendering etc , its very similar to my loop where I'm running 3*GPUs 

Third loop which I have built for friend,loop has consisted mostly from Barrow or Bykski parts, Maximus X Formula with 8700k delidded and with 5.1GHz OC and Bykski CPU block, Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme with Bykski WB, HWLabs GTS360 radiator on top with Alphacool Monsta 240mm radiator on bottom and fans we are used Noiseblocker BlackSilent PL2 Pro fans in push pull configuration,Barrow reservoir with Barrow DDC 18w pump, case has been again Enthoo Primo(I prefer this case to use in water cooled or air cooled builds as this case offer good airflow and is very nicely built etc) and max OC on GPU has been in 2088MHz as max, anything above that would crash and caused TDR 

On this build, GPU temperatures has been in 38-40°C as max and water delta T has been pretty much in 6-8°C region with fans spinning at 750-1000RPM range as max

CPU temperatures hasn't been bad, I would say they're been around 1-2°C as max higher than with EK Supermacy EVO block, I tried as well on his build my Heatkiller IV Pro just for testing and temperatures on CPU dropped by 4-6°C but friend has been happy with Bykski WB and mainly he wanted RGB WB and my Heatkiller IV Pro is not flashy or RGB etc 

Regarding yours loop, single 360mm radiator for such loop like yours I would say is just not enough, if yes you want to use single 360mm radiator then you will need to run fans fast or faster(well above 1500RPM) 

Due this I prefer use more radiator space than just single

I have run on my loop previously EK XE360 360mm radiator on top and on bottom Mayhems Havoc 240mm 60mm thick radiator with 3*GPUs setup amd 5960x etc and my GPUs temperatures has been in 36-38°C during the gaming or rendering 

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## avioni

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> First loop consist from Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme with Phanteks Glacier WB and X99 5930k with 4.6Ghz and EK Supermacy EVO WB, EK PE360 on top with Noctua NF-F12 and on bottom Mayhems Havoc 240mm 60mm thick radiator with EK Vardar F3 1850RPM, case we are used Phanteks Enthoo Primo and Barrow reservoir with Laing D5 pump
> 
> Water delta T during the load or gaming we are seen 5-7.5°C as max with fans spinning at 800-1000RPM, fans has been controlled through Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro, GPU temperatures we are seen as lowest 33°C and max 38°C in gaming or FireStrike loop
> 
> On GPU as TIM I have used Noctua NT-H1 and on CPU I have used Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut
> 
> Second loop has consisted from 8700k with 5.0GHz OC, Maximus X Formula, Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme with Phanteks Glacier WB in SLI, Barrow DDC pump with reservoir, HWLabs GTS360 on top,HWLabs SR-2 240mm on bottom, fans on friend request we are used Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition(these fans has been pretty disappointing, they just didn't push enough air through the radiator and been pretty noisy) which I wouldn't use again and case we are used again Enthoo Primo
> 
> Temperatures hasn't been bad for such loop with temperatures in 38°C on one GPU and on other 43°C as max after stress testing or FireStrike loop or during the gaming
> 
> Water delta T has been in 6-8°C as max with fans spinning at 1000-1200RPM as max, fans has been controlled again through Aquacomputer Aquaero 6 Pro
> 
> In both cases we ambient temperature has been in 23-25°C as max
> 
> In second loop we are run to some issues with WB, friend bought used WB and with thermal pads which has been damaged or seller used too thin pads on mosfets and GPU temperatures has been in high 50's to mid 60's under load and idle temperatures been in 44-46°C which I would say has been way too high, at the end I reused thermal pads from EK Hydro Copper GTX1080Ti FTW3 which still think are on on thick side but at least temperatures dropped to 40-43°C not like in previously temperatures has been in 60's which is way too high for any water cooled GPUs
> 
> Now temperatures are within 4-6°C from each other in gaming or rendering etc , its very similar to my loop where I'm running 3*GPUs
> 
> Third loop which I have built for friend,loop has consisted mostly from Barrow or Bykski parts, Maximus X Formula with 8700k delidded and with 5.1GHz OC and Bykski CPU block, Gigabyte GTX1080Ti Aorus Extreme with Bykski WB, HWLabs GTS360 radiator on top with Alphacool Monsta 240mm radiator on bottom and fans we are used Noiseblocker BlackSilent PL2 Pro fans in push pull configuration,Barrow reservoir with Barrow DDC 18w pump, case has been again Enthoo Primo(I prefer this case to use in water cooled or air cooled builds as this case offer good airflow and is very nicely built etc) and max OC on GPU has been in 2088MHz as max, anything above that would crash and caused TDR
> 
> On this build, GPU temperatures has been in 38-40°C as max and water delta T has been pretty much in 6-8°C region with fans spinning at 750-1000RPM range as max
> 
> CPU temperatures hasn't been bad, I would say they're been around 1-2°C as max higher than with EK Supermacy EVO block, I tried as well on his build my Heatkiller IV Pro just for testing and temperatures on CPU dropped by 4-6°C but friend has been happy with Bykski WB and mainly he wanted RGB WB and my Heatkiller IV Pro is not flashy or RGB etc
> 
> Regarding yours loop, single 360mm radiator for such loop like yours I would say is just not enough, if yes you want to use single 360mm radiator then you will need to run fans fast or faster(well above 1500RPM)
> 
> Due this I prefer use more radiator space than just single
> 
> I have run on my loop previously EK XE360 360mm radiator on top and on bottom Mayhems Havoc 240mm 60mm thick radiator with 3*GPUs setup amd 5960x etc and my GPUs temperatures has been in 36-38°C during the gaming or rendering
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


what is the temp on the 8700k? i just finished mine and gpu temp is nice at 36c but cpu is idling at 36 and load at 65-68. delidded with copper ihs and liquid ultra between the cpu and the block. it is a barrow block. not sure what is going on why this temps. i was expecting 50's as high


----------



## jura11

avioni said:


> what is the temp on the 8700k? i just finished mine and gpu temp is nice at 36c but cpu is idling at 36 and load at 65-68. delidded with copper ihs and liquid ultra between the cpu and the block. it is a barrow block. not sure what is going on why this temps. i was expecting 50's as high


Hi there 

What I remember or what I tested friends 8700k, first one we are run or tried with EK Supermacy EVO would idle at 28-32°C as max and load temperatures 75-78°C in OCCT or Realbench stress test, on this one we are run 5.0GHz at 1.35v, anything bellow 1.35v CPU has been unstable or would BSOD 

Second one has been run or tried with Bykski RGB CPU cooler,idle temperatures has been similar to Supermacy EVO in 28-32°C and load temperatures 77-80°C in OCCT or Realbench stress test, voltage has been similar to first 8700k and 5.0GHz OC 

Used on both CPU Noctua NT-H1 and then tried Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, temperatures has been very similar etc

Didn't used Conductonaut between IHS and CPU block 

This Copper IHS not sure, we are only once tried once and temperatures has been higher by 3-5°C due this we are run stock IHS

With Heatkiller IV Pro temperatures has improved or dropped by 4-6°C on load with Noctua NT-H1, with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut I think temperatures would drop by 2-3°C as max, idle has been pretty much same

Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## avioni

jura11 said:


> Hi there
> 
> What I remember or what I tested friends 8700k, first one we are run or tried with EK Supermacy EVO would idle at 28-32°C as max and load temperatures 75-78°C in OCCT or Realbench stress test, on this one we are run 5.0GHz at 1.35v, anything bellow 1.35v CPU has been unstable or would BSOD
> 
> Second one has been run or tried with Bykski RGB CPU cooler,idle temperatures has been similar to Supermacy EVO in 28-32°C and load temperatures 77-80°C in OCCT or Realbench stress test, voltage has been similar to first 8700k and 5.0GHz OC
> 
> Used on both CPU Noctua NT-H1 and then tried Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut, temperatures has been very similar etc
> 
> Didn't used Conductonaut between IHS and CPU block
> 
> This Copper IHS not sure, we are only once tried once and temperatures has been higher by 3-5°C due this we are run stock IHS
> 
> With Heatkiller IV Pro temperatures has improved or dropped by 4-6°C on load with Noctua NT-H1, with Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut I think temperatures would drop by 2-3°C as max, idle has been pretty much same
> 
> Hope this helps
> 
> Thanks, Jura


same thing i noticed with the copper ihs. i tried 2 of them and both gave me higher temps than stock ihs. weird.


----------



## jura11

avioni said:


> same thing i noticed with the copper ihs. i tried 2 of them and both gave me higher temps than stock ihs. weird.


Hi there 

I would try stock IHS if temperatures improve and you can try flatten stock IHS, which can or should improve temperatures as well there

Bitspower IHS does look like a good one as well 


Hope this helps 

Thanks, Jura


----------



## adversary

One quick question. Let me know differences between Gigabyte AORUS 1080TI, and Gigabyte AORUS Xtreme 1080TI. I can see differences on backplates. Is there any other difference between cards, except Xtreme is higher clocked (probably better binned also)? Is cooler different? tnx


----------



## tommybertsen

Hello everyone.. I am an Aorus 1080ti xtreme owner, and I would like to know if there's an alternative to this terrible rgb fusion/engine ,for RGB Control (maybe this is answered but couldn't search through this entire thread).
I have this weird issue, every time I launch my pc, despite the fact I do not run the program on startup, it is "fired up" and it... constantly changes the lighting brightness on my...keyboard...! Which is a Coolermaster masterkeys pro L white (no rgb, no software). After it changes the brightness, I cannot use FN+F2 or F3 to control my keyboard's brightness, so I have to disconnect and re-connect it. I uninstalled this horendous piece of software, to find out that if I turn off my pc, the lighting isn't saved (I suppose I had it coming after uninstalling the software). 
Anyone figured out how to control it without this piece of crap?


----------



## Morten S.

Hey there,

I'm an Aorus 1080ti Xtreme owner. Apart from the RBG which is crap (mine is stuck at white, can't change it...) I'm really satisfied. My card is about a year old and I have never updated the BIOS. Just for fun I have tried installing the Aorus Engine but it says no new BIOS is available. Mine is F60. Funny is that on the support page [URL="www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl-bios"]www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl-bios[/URL] two BIOS' are listed, F3 and F3P, each dated 2018/12/24, so they surely must be never than my BIOS.

I will probably just leave it there since all is working well, but just curious if anyone else with the F60 has found a never BIOS? Can see higher in this thread that I'm not the only one with the F60 BIOS.

Regarding the RGB thing I tried asking Gigabyte support. Their answer was ofc. to unintall everything, re-seat the card etc., but also to uninstall third-party software such as Aida64. I happen to have Aida64 running. Has anybody here experienced a link between Aida64 and the RGB software?

Best,
Morten


----------



## Hydroplane

Morten S. said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I'm an Aorus 1080ti Xtreme owner. Apart from the RBG which is crap (mine is stuck at white, can't change it...) I'm really satisfied. My card is about a year old and I have never updated the BIOS. Just for fun I have tried installing the Aorus Engine but it says no new BIOS is available. Mine is F60. Funny is that on the support page [URL="www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl-bios"]www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl-bios[/URL] two BIOS' are listed, F3 and F3P, each dated 2018/12/24, so they surely must be never than my BIOS.
> 
> I will probably just leave it there since all is working well, but just curious if anyone else with the F60 has found a never BIOS? Can see higher in this thread that I'm not the only one with the F60 BIOS.
> 
> Regarding the RGB thing I tried asking Gigabyte support. Their answer was ofc. to unintall everything, re-seat the card etc., but also to uninstall third-party software such as Aida64. I happen to have Aida64 running. Has anybody here experienced a link between Aida64 and the RGB software?
> 
> Best,
> Morten


The Gigabyte software is absolutely terrible lol, for me the RGB program takes like 5 tries to actually change color, and it hangs up every time. I wouldn't even trust their software to update the bios, I feel like it would crash in the middle of it.


----------



## Morten S.

Just a quick update on my post above. I tried disabling Aida64 from auto starting with Win and installed the Aorus Engine again. Suddently the RGB worked! Aorus Engine installed the RBG Fusion program by itself and after that I could control my RBG again. So I set it to what I want and then uninstalled the Gigabyte programs and set Aida64 back on auto start. 

Was a bit surprised it was all it took. Apparently Aorus Engine dont like Aida64 if anyone have similar problems.


----------



## Fubster

Morten S. said:


> Hey there,
> 
> I'm an Aorus 1080ti Xtreme owner. Apart from the RBG which is crap (mine is stuck at white, can't change it...) I'm really satisfied. My card is about a year old and I have never updated the BIOS. Just for fun I have tried installing the Aorus Engine but it says no new BIOS is available. Mine is F60. Funny is that on the support page http://support page www.gigabyte.co...4, so they surely must be never than my BIOS.www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD#support-dl-bios two BIOS' are listed, F3 and F3P, each dated 2018/12/24, so they surely must be never than my BIOS.
> 
> I will probably just leave it there since all is working well, but just curious if anyone else with the F60 has found a never BIOS? Can see higher in this thread that I'm not the only one with the F60 BIOS.
> 
> Regarding the RGB thing I tried asking Gigabyte support. Their answer was ofc. to unintall everything, re-seat the card etc., but also to uninstall third-party software such as Aida64. I happen to have Aida64 running. Has anybody here experienced a link between Aida64 and the RGB software?
> 
> Best,
> Morten



I also have the F60 BIOS and also did not upgrade to one of these F3 BIOS. My card is running fine with the F60, so there is also no need to update.


----------



## Hydroplane

Anyone try NVFlash to update their bios? Based on how poorly the RGB program works, I don't trust the Gigabyte utility to do it without crashing halfway lol


----------



## gpvecchi

Latest official on website is F3P, but there are some cards with newest FZ2. I'm still looking for the DVI version of this bios... Is there anyone who can share it?


----------



## mattliston

DVI?


Can you post a specific model number that would be on the back of the card?


I have the non-extreme aorus, and might have the correct card to yank the BIOS.


If I do, I can certainly figure out a way to post it to you, if gpu-z is okay to use


----------



## gpvecchi

Yup, card uses 2 bioses, one for DVI and one for HDMI, so according to what moniter is connected, it uses a different bios. I don't have a specific card number, as mine is an old model, FZ2 bios is probably on another part number, but I flashed the HDMI version, and it is fine. My card is an Extreme version, anyway...
And yes, GPU-Z is fine to dump the bios.


----------



## Hydroplane

gpvecchi said:


> Yup, card uses 2 bioses, one for DVI and one for HDMI, so according to what moniter is connected, it uses a different bios. I don't have a specific card number, as mine is an old model, FZ2 bios is probably on another part number, but I flashed the HDMI version, and it is fine. My card is an Extreme version, anyway...
> And yes, GPU-Z is fine to dump the bios.


What does it use by default? I'm guessing HDMI bios. Never plugged an HDMI or DVI monitor into mine lol


----------



## mattliston

Why would the card have a different BIOS for connections?


Doesnt make much sense to me.


Was it advertised like that?


----------



## Morten S.

Fubster said:


> I also have the F60 BIOS and also did not upgrade to one of these F3 BIOS. My card is running fine with the F60, so there is also no need to update.



Ok, glad to hear I’m not the only one with the F60 BIOS  My card is running fine too, so guess I should just leave it at that. Just seems weird to me with these different BIOS versions without any explanation from Gigabyte.


----------



## gpvecchi

Hydroplane said:


> What does it use by default? I'm guessing HDMI bios. Never plugged an HDMI or DVI monitor into mine lol





mattliston said:


> Why would the card have a different BIOS for connections?
> 
> 
> Doesnt make much sense to me.
> 
> 
> Was it advertised like that?


I don't know why, but card uses HDMI bios if HDMI monitor is connected and DVI bios if DVI monitor is connected. I can't remember which bios is used on display port. This has been confirmed from support, too. You can check that bios update on support website has 2 bioses to flash.


----------



## beekermartin

beekermartin said:


> Just a FYI for those considering switching to a water block...
> 
> I ordered the Aorus Extreme with the intent to water cool. I was using MSI 2x980ti's with EK blocks and back plates prior to "upgrading" to the single Aorus 1080ti Extreme. I tested the Aorus with the air cooler installed but only to make sure it was working well. I then installed the EK water block. I had ordered the EK block when I ordered the Aorus Extreme. One of the reasons I was hesitant on going with the EK block for the Aorus was the fact the memory VRM was not cooled by the block. I contacted EK and they assured me cooling the memory VRM was not necessary. I also watched a YouTube video that broke down the PCB of the Aorus 1080ti and that basically said the memory VRM was complete overkill and did not require any type of active cooling. Basically he said no air movement at all still wouldn't hurt the memory VRM on the Aorus.
> 
> Well I have been trying to figure out a way to use the stock back plate with the EK water block. I knew it wasn't compatible but I was hoping I could easily modify the stock back plate without permanently modifying it. Well I have given up on that and now realize I would have to modify the back plate permanently in order for it to fit perfectly with the EK water block installed. I hate to do that because I usually end up selling the video card when I upgrade with the air cooler installed. I then sell the water block separately. That has worked well for me with my last few video card upgrades. Permanently modifying the back plate would make it harder to sell when I reinstall the air cooler.
> 
> I was about to order the EK back plate that works with their water block but I have been hesitant. The fact that it cost ~$35 plus ~$10 shipping has made me hesitant. A back plate with no leds and that basically does nothing other than protects the back of the PCB for ~$45 isn't exactly a bargain. I then saw the posts here that other water blocks from different manufactures cool the memory VRM properly and work with the stock back plate. That had me intrigued about selling the EK block and going with an alternative.
> 
> Well tonight I was benchmarking the Aorus Extreme and decided to check the temps on the back of the PCB with no back plate installed using a laser thermometer. Here are my results. Keep in mind the EK block does not cool the memory VRM at all.
> 
> While looping 3dmark2011 and then Heaven the highest the memory VRM hit was just under 43c. The highest the core VRM, which is cooled by the EK block, was at the top of the card and that was just under 46c. When 3dmark2011 switched to the CPU test the core VRM did drop faster than the memory VRM. Still that was not even close to an issue since the memory VRM was running so cool anyways. They both dropped to similar temps when not under load very quickly.
> 
> Basically what this means to me is EK was right. The memory VRM does not require cooling. I am not saying they shouldn't have cooled it. They should have just to be safe. Regardless it is obvious the memory VRM on the Aorus does not require active cooling.
> 
> BTW, I was running the core at +50 and the memory at +500 using MSI Afterburner. That equaled a max core boost of ~2075 mhz and memory speeds over 12,000 mhz. I was at stock voltage but power was set to 150%. Max core temps was 38c with ambient temps of 20c.
> 
> I don't know if this helps anyone but it does appear from my non professional tests that the memory VRM is quite alright not being cooled by a water block.
> 
> YMMV of course and please don't take this post as fact. It is just my findings and opinions. Cheers!


That was my post back when I first installed the EK block on my Aorus 1080ti extreme. I was concerned then about the memory VRM not being cooled. I haven't thought about it since. The card has worked flawlessly and temps have been excellent. Anyway, I was browsing on EK's site today and saw this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-aorus-rgb-nickel

It appears they now have a new waterblock for the Aorus 1080ti that now does cool the memory VRM. Did they make this change because there have been issues with over heating of the memory VRM? I don't game often and when I do it is never longer than an hour or so. I have had no issues but this redesign has me concerned as when I first installed the waterblock.

I emailed EK and I am waiting for a response.


----------



## Jaz11

Hi.

I've put my Aorus 1080ti xtreme edition under an ekwb waterblock now and want to push my overclock more.

I can run 2050mhz at the voltage cap 1.093v when I was on air. 

Is there a better bios I should flash?


----------



## djbauer

I've tried updating my Waterforce Xtreme edition card with the bios from the Gigabyte site, but when I run the program it says "This BIOS version does not match."
I tried both versions that came in the file and they both say the same thing. 
Any ideas? as I really want to lower the idle fan speed!


----------



## RazerCicaj

Hi, I'm getting a used Auros non-Extreme card next week, the owner stripped his one for watercooling last time and upgraded to a 2080ti, however he lost the thermal pad for the stock cooler for the part in the red box.

Can anyone share what size is it ? I will get the card in 3 weeks time and would like to order the pads in advance.

Thanks.


----------



## mattliston

https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-...x-1080-ti-owner-s-thread-66.html#post27604770


----------



## VolatilXplosion

Hello this is my first post on overclock.net and i need some advice please. I got a amazing deal on a auros xtreme waterblocked 1080ti because the block itself has some water damage. My question is what is my next step? Should i 1.install it and see how it holds up with the entire loop? 2. Get another pump and create It's own loop so that it is self contained to keep it seperated from the rest of the loop? 3. Buy a new block for it? But which one? Availability is almost impossible to obtain one from what i have been searching online? This really has me in a tough situation and i would greatly appreciate some advice please!


----------



## Stickelfish

*GPU not keeping stable at 1708Mhz boost in Aorus Engine*

Hi,

I have had my 1080ti since November last year.
I noticed that at advertised boost clocks 1708Mhz in boost, that I get stutters etc. when playing COD Black Ops 4 and any other game.
Also tried using gaming mode and got these issues.
I even set this in MSI Afterburner same issues were found.
Any ideas or just a faulty card?

Thanks Gianni


----------



## mattliston

Might be software conflict.


I only installed the gigabyte software and the rgb thing, so I could set my color for the card, then I un-installed both.


Then I used ccleaner to clean any leftovers, and installed msi afterburner.




If you have both installed, you should first go to the gigabyte software, set the card to defaults. Now go to msi afterburner, set to defaults.


Id uninstall BOTH, reboot, clean with cccleaner, then install a fresh msi afterburner copy.


----------



## Renegade5399

Saw this thread and decided to see what my Aorus non-extreme could do since I have a few 1080Ti's lying about doing nothing.

Some good news here is the latest MSI AB has the OC Scanner tool built in. 

So I blew the dust out of it and popped it in. Fired up MSI AB, set to 100% Voltage/150% Power/90°C Temp, hit the OC Scanner and...at step 3 of 4 I see the card is at the 90°c limit and then had a driver crash. This card has always run hot from day 1, but man it really took off with the voltage and frequency being scaled together. Checked the fans, all spinning. Checked the HSF mounting screws, all tight. OK, time for a repaste.

Welp, popped the HSF off and 1/3 of the die HAD NO PASTE. Looks like there was an air bubble or something when it was assembled. So put on some fresh paste and reassembled.

Repeat the process above and ended up with 2063/12004 using 1.08V with a max temp of 63°C w/ fans at 100% at 21.6°C ambient.

Tested with Heaven and SuPo. Was stable in both at those settings, no drop in clocks during testing. The 375W power limit seems to work well for me. Max load temp during Heaven loops was 63°C and 65°C in SuPo running the 1080p Max setting. Ran SuPo 5 times back to back to be sure the temps were in fact stabilized.

Now, time to see which of these other 5 1080Ti's can match those clocks to pair with this Aorus for some sweet SLi action.

Got 2 FTW3's, an SC Black and 2 Zotac AMP! Extremes to try. Hey, gotta do something until it's my turn in the step up queue for my 2080Ti's, right?


----------



## Chargeit

Does anyone have a suggestion for replacing the stock heatsink on the normal Aorus? I've owned mine since launch and the sag on the thing is pretty awful. It's a major eyesore and I'm concerned about it affecting cooling. They really messed up with the heatsink on these things. It's like they're large just to be large. :/


----------



## Renegade5399

Chargeit said:


> Does anyone have a suggestion for replacing the stock heatsink on the normal Aorus? I've owned mine since launch and the sag on the thing is pretty awful. It's a major eyesore and I'm concerned about it affecting cooling. They really messed up with the heatsink on these things. It's like they're large just to be large. :/


Is it heavy? Yes.

Does it cause sag? OH LORD YES.

Did Gamers Nexus rate the sag as bad? Yup.

BUT, there are solutions. I used the VGA support that came with my motherboard and that seems to have resolved the issue. There's a ton of aftermarket supports you can get. I mention this because short of going over to water, that heatsink is pretty darn good. I took the fans and shroud off mine last night and attached 3 92mm fans salvaged from some retired HP PCs CPU coolers. Foxconn 12V, .4A, 81CFM. They are PWM and can be controlled by the mobo header right next to the card. You'd be hard pressed to find a full cover aftermarket HSF that is much lighter than the stock one.

Also if you're seeing meh temps, the factory paste job may be bad. I just found out mine was the other day.


----------



## Morten S.

I have the Aorus Xtreme and got one of the GPU support brackets from Coldzero: https://www.coldzero.eu/gpu-support-brackets/ It works very well for me


----------



## Chargeit

Renegade5399 said:


> Is it heavy? Yes.
> 
> Does it cause sag? OH LORD YES.
> 
> Did Gamers Nexus rate the sag as bad? Yup.
> 
> BUT, there are solutions. I used the VGA support that came with my motherboard and that seems to have resolved the issue. There's a ton of aftermarket supports you can get. I mention this because short of going over to water, that heatsink is pretty darn good. I took the fans and shroud off mine last night and attached 3 92mm fans salvaged from some retired HP PCs CPU coolers. Foxconn 12V, .4A, 81CFM. They are PWM and can be controlled by the mobo header right next to the card. You'd be hard pressed to find a full cover aftermarket HSF that is much lighter than the stock one.
> 
> Also if you're seeing meh temps, the factory paste job may be bad. I just found out mine was the other day.


I have the same mobo. I've had mixed results with the included support. It's better having it installed then not though my card still sags. Because of the design of the heatsink fans the gpu does not make very good contact with the support included with the Mark 1. 

Think I might give this a try and see how it does,

https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Graph...1&refRID=0R2VGYMJQCJE87C1XKS7#customerReviews

Have to admit. In general this has been a good card but visually it's a buzzkill for me. I was really looking forward to replacing it until Nvidia got all crazy with their 2080 ti pricing. =/


----------



## Renegade5399

Chargeit said:


> I have the same mobo. I've had mixed results with the included support. It's better having it installed then not though my card still sags. Because of the design of the heatsink fans the gpu does not make very good contact with the support included with the Mark 1.
> 
> Think I might give this a try and see how it does,
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/upHere-Graph...1&refRID=0R2VGYMJQCJE87C1XKS7#customerReviews
> 
> Have to admit. In general this has been a good card but visually it's a buzzkill for me. I was really looking forward to replacing it until Nvidia got all crazy with their 2080 ti pricing. =/


Gigabyte is actually including something similar with some of their beefier 2080Ti models now! LOL!


----------



## Chargeit

Renegade5399 said:


> Gigabyte is actually including something similar with some of their beefier 2080Ti models now! LOL!


If it's anything like these 1080 ti's they need it.

Pretty much every high-end gpu I've owned had some sag but this one is extreme without a doubt. 

I ordered the support. Should be here Monday though I'm not sure when I'll get a chance to install it.


----------



## outofmyheadyo

Just out of curiousity I grabbed a strix rtx 2080 today to compare with my aorus 1080ti, and after all synthetics I ran the only one that RTX 2080 won was timespy, by about 1k all the other ones were better on the 1080ti.
I quess the RTX is going back to the shop when I`m done with quake 2 RTX version, lmao.

timespy:

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/spy/5956874/spy/5952594

fsultra:

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/18042410/fs/18039947

fsxtreme:

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/18042338/fs/18040030

fsnormal:

https://www.3dmark.com/compare/fs/18042261/fs/18040076

Pretty sad tbh, was just curious about what it could do, but dont think it`s worth it over the 1080ti, for 100€ only thing I liked about the strix was it does not coil whine and it has a physical RGB/lighting off button on the back of the card.


----------



## Renegade5399

Well, I decided to see what this 1080Ti could do.

So far I've only repasted the GPU and removed the stock fan shroud and replaced that with 3 92mm 81CFM PWM fans. Daisy chained those together and have them plugged into one of the mobo PWM fan headers and set the speed to 100% for benches. Loud, but not worried about it. As an afterthought, one could setup asynchronous fans with this mobo using the 3 temp sensor ports and 3 of the fan ports with the Fanmate software. Not practical of course, just a random thought of a deranged insomniac overclocker whose been out of the game for a while and has caught the bug once again. 

On OEM BIOS I could get to 2050/12004 at 1.093V using MSI AB voltage curve. Not the greatest, not the worst.

Decided power and voltage limits are for the birds and flashed the XOC BIOS. Note that this does in fact disable one of the Display Ports, but just the one and everything else seems fine. Before I went to bed, I was able to get to 2137/12004 at 1.125V. FFXV, Heaven, Superposition, Furmark (yes furmark as it's not evil like most think) stable @ 52°C load temp. Temp was read after running the card up to temp for 10 minutes with Furmark, then other benches were ran. Everything was ran at the max resolution the app supported. The Gigabyte stock cooler really is top notch as long as you use some other type of fans LOL. Backplate was warm, but not hot. I don't have a FLIR camera or laser temp gun so all readings are recorded by flesh to GPU interaction (I touched it ). The heatpipe and fin assembly moves a lot of heat off the components. The exhaust air from the card feels like a space heater blowing on low so a good amount of heat is being taken from the GPU. VRM seems to be good. I don't have a meter on the card, just HWInfo reporting, but there is no drop in voltage seen there. I'll look to see if there's easy to connect to reading points on the card itself though to measure it right.

Game benches are next. I own quite a few modern titles with built in benches. I have the full 3DMark Free suite, Valley, Catzilla 4K, Elemental DX12, Basemark, ASUS Realbench, and whatever else I can find to run. If you have and requests or suggestions, I'll take em.

Once I get the core to max stables clocks, I'll fiddle with the RAM.

I never expected to have gotten this lucky with a random Newegg non-extreme card. Very happy so far. I have 5 more 1080Ti's to put through their paces after this one. Here's to hoping I have another "golden" one in the pile!


----------



## Hydroplane

Renegade5399 said:


> Well, I decided to see what this 1080Ti could do.
> 
> So far I've only repasted the GPU and removed the stock fan shroud and replaced that with 3 92mm 81CFM PWM fans. Daisy chained those together and have them plugged into one of the mobo PWM fan headers and set the speed to 100% for benches. Loud, but not worried about it. As an afterthought, one could setup asynchronous fans with this mobo using the 3 temp sensor ports and 3 of the fan ports with the Fanmate software. Not practical of course, just a random thought of a deranged insomniac overclocker whose been out of the game for a while and has caught the bug once again.
> 
> On OEM BIOS I could get to 2050/12004 at 1.093V using MSI AB voltage curve. Not the greatest, not the worst.
> 
> Decided power and voltage limits are for the birds and flashed the XOC BIOS. Note that this does in fact disable one of the Display Ports, but just the one and everything else seems fine. Before I went to bed, I was able to get to 2137/12004 at 1.125V. FFXV, Heaven, Superposition, Furmark (yes furmark as it's not evil like most think) stable @ 52°C load temp. Temp was read after running the card up to temp for 10 minutes with Furmark, then other benches were ran. Everything was ran at the max resolution the app supported. The Gigabyte stock cooler really is top notch as long as you use some other type of fans LOL. Backplate was warm, but not hot. I don't have a FLIR camera or laser temp gun so all readings are recorded by flesh to GPU interaction (I touched it ). The heatpipe and fin assembly moves a lot of heat off the components. The exhaust air from the card feels like a space heater blowing on low so a good amount of heat is being taken from the GPU. VRM seems to be good. I don't have a meter on the card, just HWInfo reporting, but there is no drop in voltage seen there. I'll look to see if there's easy to connect to reading points on the card itself though to measure it right.
> 
> Game benches are next. I own quite a few modern titles with built in benches. I have the full 3DMark Free suite, Valley, Catzilla 4K, Elemental DX12, Basemark, ASUS Realbench, and whatever else I can find to run. If you have and requests or suggestions, I'll take em.
> 
> Once I get the core to max stables clocks, I'll fiddle with the RAM.
> 
> I never expected to have gotten this lucky with a random Newegg non-extreme card. Very happy so far. I have 5 more 1080Ti's to put through their paces after this one. Here's to hoping I have another "golden" one in the pile!


Nice to see the XOC bios works on these, I will have to try it on mine. I have the Waterforce WB version though. I wonder what the max safe voltage is on these, I feel like I would have no problem with 1.2v on mine. 1.09v only heats mine up to like 35c.

As a side note, that FFXV benchmark is interesting in that the Titan RTX is way ahead of the 2080 Ti. Way more than the specs would suggest. Maybe the 2080 Ti is out of VRAM at 4K?


----------



## Chargeit

Got the gpu brace in. Fairly happy with the results though I have some minor concerns over the brace itself. Did a unboxing/review of the brace.


----------



## Renegade5399

Annnnnnnnnnnnd there's the voltage to frequency falloff.

I can do 2125 @ 1.125V, but the highest it goes is 2164 @ 1.2V.

Still, not bad at all. 

So at 2164/12474 @ 1.2V I can burn it in all day with furmark and temps max out at 62°C with a fan blowing across the backplate. Have to have a fan there at 1.2V since the VREG hardware gets hot. With a 92mm 81CFM PWM fan however, the backplate is only warm to the touch. 

Got a nice bump in scores at these clocks. Load temp max during FFXV run was 51°C. The stock Aorus heatsink...man I keep saying it, but it is really good with the proper fans.


----------



## doom3crazy

I figured this might be the best place to post this but I am thinking about upgrading from my 980 ti to a gigabyte aorus extreme 1080(not ti) and I was just curious if you guys might be able to tell me if there is a custom bios for the card to unlock power/voltage limits etc. There is a guy locally near me selling one for 350$ so I thought it might be a good buy.


----------



## VolatilXplosion

Thanks for confirming that the 1080ti is faster than the 2080 LOL


----------



## VolatilXplosion

Is the waterblocked auros 1080ti extreme stainless steel plating or nickel? When i had the block open last time a saw a "SS" stamped on it.


----------



## RavageTheEarth

Still happily gaming on my Aorus 1080 Ti running a slight OC of 2050. Nice to see the thread is still alive. I think I'll be skipping the RTX generation.


----------



## VolatilXplosion

https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32844...VRrXACh2oAQgrEAQYCyABEgKEcvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds


Does this barrow waterblock fit the xtreme auros 1080ti wb waterblocked version also? Is the auros xtreme 1080ti and the auros xtreme wb 1080ti boards exactly the same?


----------



## VolatilXplosion

Can ANYONE confirm that all the 1080ti Auros Xtreme PCB board layouts are identical that same??? I want to know if you can use a waterblock for the 1080ti Auros Xtreme air cooling version on the waterblock Auros Xtremes board since you cannot get a replacement from gigabyte.


----------



## beekermartin

VolatilXplosion said:


> Can ANYONE confirm that all the 1080ti Auros Xtreme PCB board layouts are identical that same??? I want to know if you can use a waterblock for the 1080ti Auros Xtreme air cooling version on the waterblock Auros Xtremes board since you cannot get a replacement from gigabyte.


I believe the Aorus 1080ti PCBs are all the same regardless if it is an extreme or regular version.


----------



## beekermartin

beekermartin said:


> That was my post back when I first installed the EK block on my Aorus 1080ti extreme. I was concerned then about the memory VRM not being cooled. I haven't thought about it since. The card has worked flawlessly and temps have been excellent. Anyway, I was browsing on EK's site today and saw this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc1080-gtx-ti-aorus-rgb-nickel
> 
> It appears they now have a new waterblock for the Aorus 1080ti that now does cool the memory VRM. Did they make this change because there have been issues with over heating of the memory VRM? I don't game often and when I do it is never longer than an hour or so. I have had no issues but this redesign has me concerned as when I first installed the waterblock.
> 
> I emailed EK and I am waiting for a response.


I attached a few pics showing the different revisions of the EK blocks. I am still waiting for a final answer from EK as to why they updated the block. Either it was because everyone was complaining the memory VRM wasn't being cooled or because it should be cooled and it wasn't with the original version. That is what has me concerned. If the memory VRM is running hot I have no way of knowing. I am nervous I could be damaging the card. I don't game often and when I do it isn't for long sessions. I doubt I have done any damage so far but if the memory VRM should be cooled I hope EK will send me the newer revision to replace my original revision.


----------



## Renegade5399

beekermartin said:


> I attached a few pics showing the different revisions of the EK blocks. I am still waiting for a final answer from EK as to why they updated the block. Either it was because everyone was complaining the memory VRM wasn't being cooled or because it should be cooled and it wasn't with the original version. That is what has me concerned. If the memory VRM is running hot I have no way of knowing. I am nervous I could be damaging the card. I don't game often and when I do it isn't for long sessions. I doubt I have done any damage so far but if the memory VRM should be cooled I hope EK will send me the newer revision to replace my original revision.


Realistically those don't get hot enough to damage themselves. The memory gets unstable wayyy before enough power is drawn to smoke those. Those things can run up to around 120°C before you have to start worrying.


----------



## beekermartin

Renegade5399 said:


> Realistically those don't get hot enough to damage themselves. The memory gets unstable wayyy before enough power is drawn to smoke those. Those things can run up to around 120°C before you have to start worrying.


I understand that and that is why I still went with the EK block. With that said EK revised the block for a reason. I assume that means the memory VRM should be cooled and the newest revision does cool it.


----------



## supermiguel

is the XOC BIOS the only non OEM BIOS that works on these cards?

Wondering if worth it changing the BIOS on 2 AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce WB Xtreme Edition


----------



## lowmotion

I ran the OC Scanner on 2 cards and get different clocks, but in the end every Aorus can boost to the same speed under water and nothing more. So i decided not to flash any bios.


----------



## chrcoluk

Now I know my PSU shouldnt be a bottleneck I have tried to see how far my auros 1080ti could go, I already knew its a bad chip, but wow its bad.

So basically with power limit and voltage as aggressive as possible on the sliders.

The card can only do a +20 without signs of instability on the clock speed. So basically the shipped state of the card is almost maxed out and the card wouldnt be capable of auros extreme speeds.

At 1.091v the card at 2000mhz will crash randomly after 5-30 mins in all my testing. That seems to be the max voltage possible on the card.

Of course it makes the card very hot so the practical clock speed in that configuration is more like 1974mhz as thats the clock gpu boost 3.0 will drop it down to under load as the temperatures go very high.

My high power voltage curve runs at that speed anyway but at 1.043v so about 15C cooler and 20% less power utilisation.

So I basically have a 1080ti that cannot do 2ghz stable, and apparently this is rare?

I also started seeing the capped power issue again in this configuration again as well (the attempted 2ghz via +30 and voltage/power sliders maxed out) and now I know my PSU wont be causing it, I suspect possibly faulty VRM's on the card. But since the sympton doesnt show up in shipped configuration I wouldnt be able to RMA because of it, ultimately its a poor clocker I have to live with.

My low power config is 1846mhz at 0.925v, I couldnt even get that stable at 0.8xx voltage like most people can. I plan to make a 1560mhz config tho for really light games at base 3d voltage. The 1974 power profile will remain my highest as clearly that attempted 2ghz isnt practical just wasting power and heat.

I run multi monitor power saver applet to stop my browser from putting the card in second stage 2d clocks (30% power load vs 9-11%). 607mhz on a 1080ti is more than enough for any desktop media.


----------



## chrcoluk

gpvecchi said:


> Latest official on website is F3P, but there are some cards with newest FZ2. I'm still looking for the DVI version of this bios... Is there anyone who can share it?


My DVI bios is 86.02.39.40.5F so seems neither of those two?


----------



## Zfast4y0u

chrcoluk said:


> Now I know my PSU shouldnt be a bottleneck I have tried to see how far my auros 1080ti could go, I already knew its a bad chip, but wow its bad.
> 
> So basically with power limit and voltage as aggressive as possible on the sliders.
> 
> The card can only do a +20 without signs of instability on the clock speed. So basically the shipped state of the card is almost maxed out and the card wouldnt be capable of auros extreme speeds.
> 
> At 1.091v the card at 2000mhz will crash randomly after 5-30 mins in all my testing. That seems to be the max voltage possible on the card.
> 
> Of course it makes the card very hot so the practical clock speed in that configuration is more like 1974mhz as thats the clock gpu boost 3.0 will drop it down to under load as the temperatures go very high.
> 
> My high power voltage curve runs at that speed anyway but at 1.043v so about 15C cooler and 20% less power utilisation.
> 
> So I basically have a 1080ti that cannot do 2ghz stable, and apparently this is rare?
> 
> I also started seeing the capped power issue again in this configuration again as well (the attempted 2ghz via +30 and voltage/power sliders maxed out) and now I know my PSU wont be causing it, I suspect possibly faulty VRM's on the card. But since the sympton doesnt show up in shipped configuration I wouldnt be able to RMA because of it, ultimately its a poor clocker I have to live with.
> 
> My low power config is 1846mhz at 0.925v, I couldnt even get that stable at 0.8xx voltage like most people can. I plan to make a 1560mhz config tho for really light games at base 3d voltage. The 1974 power profile will remain my highest as clearly that attempted 2ghz isnt practical just wasting power and heat.
> 
> I run multi monitor power saver applet to stop my browser from putting the card in second stage 2d clocks (30% power load vs 9-11%). 607mhz on a 1080ti is more than enough for any desktop media.




someone correct me if im wrong, but aorus 1080ti xtreme should clock 2050mhz on default by itself. at what temps do u experience instability with 2000mhz @ 1.093v?

for such high clocks to run em on 0.800mV u really, REALLY need golden chip, i can for example run that voltage stable with 1750mhz, normally i use 1700mhz @ 0,781mV. for anything higher u pretty much need 0.9xx mV. and then power draw start to rise, my 1080ti can pull 250w easy on 2000mhz @ 0,962-975mV (got 2 gpu's)

what i discovered is, that sweet spot for 1080ti's is around 1700-1800mhz with nice undervolt. that is if you wanna balance power draw, voltage, performance and temperatures. dont be annoyed u cant go 2000+mhz. the difference between 1700mhz and 2000mhz clock speeds is 10fps max, above 2000mhz u may gain 3fps... and shorten lifespan of card too. one user already reported he cant run 2100mhz oc anymore with xoc bios on 1.2v . hes back on stock bios now and lower voltages.


anything above card rated ''boost'' clocks is considered an overclock and is luck of a draw how good chip u get. have in mind 1080ti's boost clocks are around 1650-1700mhz, anything above is overclock. your card can do almost 300mhz over its rated speeds, imagine it couldnt boost over its rated, that would be unlucky draw for sure! btw with overclocks close to 2100mhz, you are already in yellow area and about to hit power limit anyway in demanding titles. enjoy ur card.


----------



## lowmotion

I tried GPU-Z + PCI-E 3.0 Test. Boost at 2025Mhz on Default.


----------



## gpvecchi

chrcoluk said:


> My DVI bios is 86.02.39.40.5F so seems neither of those two?


It depends on the date, it is the the F61/F4P/F91 bios for non Xtreme versions.


----------



## chrcoluk

mine is the non extreme card Zfast4y0u, by default it clocks to about 1970 at 1.093v (voltage slider to right, less on completely stock settings), I can get 2000 with +30, and the 2ghz is on the max voltage of 1.093v only, I have to also set the voltage slider all the way to the right to get it to use that voltage, it isnt fully stable, at even 2ghz with 1.093v as it will eventually driver crash or hit the half performance mode (some cores disabled until reboot).

Scalability seems to be dramatically reduced past about 1.043v, as at that voltage it can do 1987mhz. But upping the voltage past that point gains almost zero performance (that is stable).

I for sure agree sweet spot is below 1.0v and clock speeds in 1800s. I will run that efficient profile in most games, I only use the higher performance profile when I have to for really demanding games.



gpvecchi said:


> It depends on the date, it is the the F61/F4P/F91 bios for non Xtreme versions.


Just realised you have the extreme card so different SKU to me, sorry my reply was useless then.


----------



## TucoPacifico

Buying Thermaltake Extreme-S 3.0 and kraken G12. The ultimate solution.

Wysłane z mojego F8331 przy użyciu Tapatalka


----------



## PlotnikVA

TucoPacifico said:


> Buying Thermaltake Extreme-S 3.0 and kraken G12. The ultimate solution.


What about opposite to the kraken's fan VRAM chips cooling?


----------



## TucoPacifico

My Aorus GTX 1080 Ti card started working on the top PCI-E slot of ASUS Maximus VIII Extreme after I updated BIOS to latest F3P. Was a known incompatibility before and I used it for months on the 3rd slot in the mobo (x8). What a day, I have ten celsius less and back to 2050 MHz.


----------



## Charlyred

Hi all.

I have problems with the performance of the graphic playing bf5 (Does not work more than 70%)

I need to rule out that it's not a problem with the power supply. I have a seasonic X 660 plus golg.

Do you think there is enough power supply for this graph?

The rest of the system is a rizen 5 2600 with 16gb of ram.

Thank you!!!


----------



## chrcoluk

I got curious after reading some posts on reddit about auros 1080ti's crashing on factory settings. So I reset the voltage curve etc. and installed gigabyte's software, and lo and behind in OC mode designed by gigabyte the card isnt stable, so that does confirm its a pretty bad chip, however I am not sure if I can be bothered to try an RMA, will probably just reapply my profiles, and keep on using it. Or maybe use this issue to return it in a couple of years when they might have no spare 1080ti's left so end up sending me a 2080 instead.


----------



## Ghostzy

Hi guys, please a little bit of help.
I've been reading the last 50 pages or so and i'm still in need of help. I have the GV-N108TAORUS-11GD and i would like to upgrade the firmware. I don't really understand how can i check the F version, can you please tell me how can i find that out ?
i've tried to use the tool from gigabite but that is just throwing that i have different bios version. so can you please share some custom roms that i can put using nvflash ?
by the way my bios version is 86.02.39.00.9D....
update ....i manage to use that crap aorus engine and there is listed as F20, still not sure if i can put any 1080ti roms or if i can use dedicate gigabyte 1080ti no extreme roms.
thanks


----------



## yoadknux

Hi guys, just wondering, to those of you who flashed a custom bios, what did you go with?

I found that the stock Aorus bios gives the best superposition results. XOC gives better clocks but not better performance overall because of extra heat + memory timings. The problem with the stock Aorus bios for me is that when I do heavy stress tests (TimeSpy, FireStrike, etc), the "Power Limit 1" pops up and consequently the clock reduces from 2088 to 2063-2075 for a moment. 

I have found that FTW3 KingPin works in this regard, and it is able to achieve stable clock speeds in FireStrike (and also more heat because of it). The only problem is that the layout of the outputs is different, which is fine if I run a single display but I am trying to run multiple displays. Another problem is that the Aorus has this weird thing where it has a different bios for DP and for DVI. So I am not sure if I can connect, say, a 144Hz display to the DVI & 4k to the DP and it will work fine.

Is there maybe a modified Aorus bios out there that can achieve better power limit?

Thanks!


----------



## MasterGamma12

Well my Aorus 1080 Ti just died out of nowhere a few days ago, was just browsing when the machine completely shut down and turned back on but the card's fans didn't spin and the RGB leds were dead.

A year earlier, I had the card rma'd by Gigabyte because the card died and would give out a 62 error on the debug, this time on the otherhand, it just boots to igpu.

Ended up buying a Titan X Pascal off ebay for $500 to replace it as I don't want to drop my vram amount and the only card I can buy that has the same amount is either another 1080 Ti or an overpriced 2080 Ti and I can't use something like the Radeon VII due to AMD's horrible OpenGL support and sadly threw away the card as I don't want to deal with this headache of a card that I've had nothing but issues with since I've more or less bought it.

So just wanted to share my experience with this card.


----------



## dmr2

Why do you need that amount of ram? I just ask myself where can I use these 11GB VRAM from 1080ti


----------



## mrlance

I have an aorus 1080ti non extreme , I flashed with the original extreme edition bios a couple years back and it's been working great, wondering if there's a big improvement flashing with the new Xtreme bios that came out today, I'm boosting to 2038 at Max volts and 150 target with 20 on the core in afterburner, still on the stock cooler but doesn't seem to go past mid upper 60's at 80 percent fan speed , not bad, I think it's because I have a gfx card slot fan right below it to bring in some more air for it. Figured I got lucky with the bios flash and last thing I wanna do is brick it lol


----------



## gpvecchi

Deleted


----------



## yoadknux

mrlance said:


> I have an aorus 1080ti non extreme , I flashed with the original extreme edition bios a couple years back and it's been working great, wondering if there's a big improvement flashing with the new Xtreme bios that came out today, I'm boosting to 2038 at Max volts and 150 target with 20 on the core in afterburner, still on the stock cooler but doesn't seem to go past mid upper 60's at 80 percent fan speed , not bad, I think it's because I have a gfx card slot fan right below it to bring in some more air for it. Figured I got lucky with the bios flash and last thing I wanna do is brick it lol


It's hard to brick this card. It also learnt the hard way that this card has dual bios: One if you use DP as main display and another if you use DVI. I modified my Aorus with NZXT Kraken X41 and flashed a kingpin based EVGA FTW3 bios which raises some power limits without affecting the voltage. It has stable 2100/6100 with temps going to about 50c while gaming and 55c while running FireStrike/TimeSpy stability loops.


----------



## tweakness

delete


----------



## tweakness

I just picked up an Extreme Edition and it has this bios

What is the original bios and how can I flash it back to the original?

Thanks!


----------



## gpvecchi

tweakness said:


> I just picked up an Extreme Edition and it has this bios
> 
> What is the original bios and how can I flash it back to the original?
> 
> Thanks!


PMmed...


----------



## tweakness

tweakness said:


> I just picked up an Extreme Edition and it has this bios
> 
> What is the original bios and how can I flash it back to the original?
> 
> Thanks!


Anybody?

It boosts over 2000 on the core and ends up crashing.. I just want stock speeds out of the box.. that's all.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

tweakness said:


> Anybody?
> 
> It boosts over 2000 on the core and ends up crashing.. I just want stock speeds out of the box.. that's all.


u are well above stock speeds out of box, no1 market their card boosting over 2000mhz out of box.either lower max boost clock or bump voltage to maintain current one


----------



## tweakness

Zfast4y0u said:


> u are well above stock speeds out of box, no1 market their card boosting over 2000mhz out of box.either lower max boost clock or bump voltage to maintain current one


I know. And this is why I want to flash the stock/original bios to it. I don't want to have to under-clock it or over volt it to have to make it stable.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

tweakness said:


> I know. And this is why I want to flash the stock/original bios to it. I don't want to have to under-clock it or over volt it to have to make it stable.


so why did u mess with other bioses in the first place then??


----------



## tweakness

Zfast4y0u said:


> so why did u mess with other bioses in the first place then??


... I Didn't.

I bought the card used and it came with this bios already on it. 

Sorry If I wasn't clearer in my previous post.


----------



## Zfast4y0u

tweakness said:


> ... I Didn't.
> 
> I bought the card used and it came with this bios already on it.
> 
> Sorry If I wasn't clearer in my previous post.


judging the pic of gpu z, seams thats cards stock bios.


----------



## gpvecchi

Can you please upload a copy of your bios in DVI version, please?


----------



## sinnedone

Quick question 😁

Will flashing the waterforce bios onto the regular Aorus open up higher power limits or voltage?


----------



## yoadknux

Hi guys, could anyone post the latest bios for either the Xtreme/Non-Xtreme, both for DVI-D and for DP? can't find a bios that works on DVI-D for some reason.


----------



## mattliston

yoadknux said:


> Hi guys, could anyone post the latest bios for either the Xtreme/Non-Xtreme, both for DVI-D and for DP? can't find a bios that works on DVI-D for some reason.



gigabyte stores them on their website.


If available, always go for a manufacturer provided BIOS file to reduce/remove chance of file corruption. You never can guarantee someone's internet had a hiccup during upload or other similar annoyances.


----------



## ttnuagmada

I'm having an issue with the display outputs, I'm wondering if maybe someone might have some insight;

For months I've had the same monitor config: 1 HDMI 1 DVI and 1 DP. The POST screen and windows loading screen would display to the DVI screen, and then the other 2 will kick in once Windows starts up. Not ideal, but worked fine. 

So the other day I was doing some troubleshooting as I was having issues with my computer resetting (turned out to be PSU), and during the process I did plenty of disconnecting cables and resetting the CMOS, and eventually replaced the PSU. Somewhere in the process of doing all of this, the GPU started doing something different with the outputs. Currently, the only way I can see a POST screen or the windows load screen is by unplugging the DP monitor, otherwise my monitors will be blank until I load into windows. So now, if I want to get into the BIOS, I have to unplug the DP monitor to see anything, and it has to be done before I restart the computer. Also, it outputs to the HDMI when I do this instead of the DVI port. 

I'm sure it's related to the card having dual vbios, but I can't figure out how to get it back to how it was initially. I'm otherwise not having any issues. Anyone have any ideas?


----------



## gpvecchi

mattliston said:


> gigabyte stores them on their website.
> 
> 
> If available, always go for a manufacturer provided BIOS file to reduce/remove chance of file corruption. You never can guarantee someone's internet had a hiccup during upload or other similar annoyances.


The ones on Gigabyte website are not latest. Latest is 86.02.39.40.5E, but I have just the Extreme HDMI version. I'm looking for the Extreme DVI, too...


----------



## mattliston

What is the specific cards part number?


I could have sworn last time I checked for a bios (I think I checked in May of this year) I could have sworn the files were updated at least sometime in 2019


I might be wrong, but Id be happy to help check it out


EDIT


Mine is specifically as follows from back of card
GV-N108TAORUS-11GD


Does that match what you are looking for? My card works fantastic, and I could try and make a clean upload of the BIOS for you


EDIT #2 my card is NOT the extreme model, so I dont think it will work. Crap


----------



## yoadknux

mattliston said:


> What is the specific cards part number?
> 
> 
> I could have sworn last time I checked for a bios (I think I checked in May of this year) I could have sworn the files were updated at least sometime in 2019
> 
> 
> I might be wrong, but Id be happy to help check it out
> 
> 
> EDIT
> 
> 
> Mine is specifically as follows from back of card
> GV-N108TAORUS-11GD
> 
> 
> Does that match what you are looking for? My card works fantastic, and I could try and make a clean upload of the BIOS for you
> 
> 
> EDIT #2 my card is NOT the extreme model, so I dont think it will work. Crap


I have non-extreme, so it will work for me if you could upload it. Thanks.
As for the BIOS on gigabyte site, it's not a direct rom, at least from what I noticed. So I can't just go and use "nvflash64 -6 aorus.rom" or something like that. I'm looking for a solution that will allow me to do that.


I did end up finding the right bios for DVI but it's really confusing. If you try to flash the wrong bios into DVI, the card will not function properly. Oddly enough if you try to flash any OTHER bios over DVI, it will work just fine.


----------



## Waldos Platypus

Hey guys, long time lurker, infrequent poster. Don't mean to necro this thread, but I've been looking for an: Alphacool Eiswolf 120 GPX Pro (M21) for ages now, and haven't been able to find a single one on *any* site, foreign or domestic. I have a base Aorus 1080 Ti (non extreme) and it gets *hot* (80ºC) when playing, and would really like to go with a hybrid route. I had an EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid and loved it, but traded it in for this Ti. I don't really want to go the Kraken route, but will if there's simply nothing out there anymore for these things. Any input would be super appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## yoadknux

Waldos Platypus said:


> Hey guys, long time lurker, infrequent poster. Don't mean to necro this thread, but I've been looking for an: Alphacool Eiswolf 120 GPX Pro (M21) for ages now, and haven't been able to find a single one on *any* site, foreign or domestic. I have a base Aorus 1080 Ti (non extreme) and it gets *hot* (80ºC) when playing, and would really like to go with a hybrid route. I had an EVGA 1080 FTW Hybrid and loved it, but traded it in for this Ti. I don't really want to go the Kraken route, but will if there's simply nothing out there anymore for these things. Any input would be super appreciated. Thanks.


I have the standard version as well. The Alphacool kit seems nice and robust. I'll tell you this, I went with the Kraken G12 and I'm very pleased. I bought the bracket, some mini heatsinks, thermal tape, a Be Quiet! 92mm fan, Kraken X41, 2x Noctua AF-14 Chromax, and a NA-FC1 to link the fans. With 24c ambient, typical gaming temps are 44-50c with quiet operation (fans spin up to ~1200RPM). If I ramp up all the fans to maximum and run the most powerful stress test - FireStrike Ultra, the temps will stay right around 48 (51 with the quiet profile). The card is overclocked to 2063/6000 at 1.043V, but it can handle higher voltages easily (with custom bios, I could do 2088/6100 at 1.093V).
The card went through ~150 hours of gaming if not more, and about 50, if not more, runs of FireStrike Ultra and TimeSpy Extreme stress loops. So overall you can achieve excellent results with the G12.
Note I bought way too much stuff, you can get away with just the standard bracket, a simpler cooler like H55 (had that too, temps increase by about 8c), the standard fans, and maybe no heatsinks, although personally I wouldn't do it (they're very easy to apply).


----------



## orbar1

*fan header on aurous 1080ti*

hey guys, I have just installed an evga 120mm aio on my gpu with kraken g12 mount. thing is I want to be able to control fan speed as I could before, with MSI afterburner. 
now there are 2 headers I can plug in my pwm fan adapter to, but I used 2 different adapters (since I thought my first is DOA or something) but none of them works, when I plug the fan (noctua's 92mm instead of the crap kraken's) to a motherboard header, it works, so I wonder if those 2 headers I tried are the wrong headers? maybe it's just for rgb or something else, could you please guide me and tell me where the fan header is sitting at? thanks a lot!


----------



## Gateways

*Quick question*

Hey there guys,

Just wanted to come over quick and ask a quick question for people with the Aorus Xtreme edition. Had this card a little while now, more than happy with it. Been solid since installing. Just today had an odd occurence that I have never had before and wanted to see if anyone more experienced than I could offer some clarity. Turned on my PC today and was just downloading new Nvidia drivers when my monitor shut off with blinking light and my GPU went dark except for the two white LEDs above the power connector. Never had any issue like this before, everything has been rock solid since I upgraded my rig. Had to manually power off and the restart and we are all good again now? Anyone else experience this before? I tried to find something similar but thought no better place to ask than here. System is not that old as just last year pretty much rebuilt the PC. Any help/thoughts would be greatly appreciated 

Thanks in advance!

Shane


----------



## Globespy

Have 1080ti Aorus Extreme Edition.
Came with BIOS 86.02.39.40.5E

I see there's new BIOS versions from August 22nd 2019 on the Gigabyte site.
https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD/support#support-dl-bios

Looks like I would need the F3P version ending 9E since my current BIOS ends 5E - right?

I wonder why Gigabyte is releasing a new BIOS this late when the card isn't even manufactured anymore?
The conspiracy theorist in me wonders if Nvidia want to slow the 1080ti down to make me buy RTX!

I would like to push my OC a little more and have felt the card has never gone as far as it could.
I can get 2038Mhz at low 60's temps, but occasional crashes in some titles.

Appreciate any input


----------



## gpvecchi

No, your bios is newer, I checked the build date. BTW, do you have a DVI monitor? If so, can you please dump your bios? This card uses different bioses if DVI/HDMI/Displayport monitors are connected.


----------



## yoadknux

Globespy said:


> Have 1080ti Aorus Extreme Edition.
> Came with BIOS 86.02.39.40.5E
> 
> I see there's new BIOS versions from August 22nd 2019 on the Gigabyte site.
> https://www.gigabyte.com/us/Graphics-Card/GV-N108TAORUS-X-11GD/support#support-dl-bios
> 
> Looks like I would need the F3P version ending 9E since my current BIOS ends 5E - right?
> 
> I wonder why Gigabyte is releasing a new BIOS this late when the card isn't even manufactured anymore?
> The conspiracy theorist in me wonders if Nvidia want to slow the 1080ti down to make me buy RTX!
> 
> I would like to push my OC a little more and have felt the card has never gone as far as it could.
> I can get 2038Mhz at low 60's temps, but occasional crashes in some titles.
> 
> Appreciate any input


I have a watercooled Aorus (normal version, not extreme) 1080ti. This is my bios: https://www.techpowerup.com/gpu-specs/gigabyte-aorus-gtx-1080-ti.b4397
My best tip in overclocking this card is to curve-overclock and not slider-overclock, and either get a power-free bios like FTW3 Kingpin fix (but remain only with DP and DVI outputs), OR stick with stock bios but undervolt when overclocking instead of overvolting.
I can do 2076 core / 6000 memory on ~45c, 1.05V which very rarely power limits and never crashes. Aorus cards seem to be good core overclockers but memory will artifact on some tests/games at 6100+.


----------



## Varjo

I'm having a very niche issue with my card (1080ti extreme) and wondering if anyone else has encountered a solution. I've used it with a DVI monitor for over a year, no problem, but have recently switched to a different DVI monitor, the Dell 3007wfp. Apparently, this monitor is an "auto sensing" monitor, and it seems to not like the 1080ti. What appears to be happening is that the monitor is not detected during boot, causing the card to always load the hdmi (and not the DVI) bios. Is there any way to force this damn thing to stay in DVI mode?


----------



## gpvecchi

Are you on latest bios?


----------



## Webster200x

Hi, so I have some problems with a Aorus 1080ti xtreme the problem is that the card is not being recognised in any of my systems besides a x99. Systems that I tried for now and nothing.

-Asus z390 Maximus XI Hero 
-Asus z370 Maximus X hero
-Evga z170 Classified K 
-Gigabyte Aorus z390 Master
Yet on my Asus X99 Pro its working and giving video output any ideas what would be the problem here? Tried different bios as well with no luck.


----------



## nucl3arlion

Yesterday I tried to flash bios taken from official Gigabyte Aorus 1080Ti page. And... It can't be flashed  Tried different variants and always get "This BIOS version does not match". So, I used latest .rom for extreme version from techpowerup, flashed it with nvflash and now I can oc my gpu like extreme without limits of usual aorus. But I have one last question: is .rom from techpowerup latest? Cause it was uploaded in 2018, and latest bios from gigabyte, that i can't flash, from 2019.09(?)


----------



## Hydroplane

Any way to adjust the lights on these things without the Gigabyte RGB program that simply doesn't work?


----------



## abaker339

So I have a very weird issue. The problem seems to be the displayport bios is corrupted. Basically my card only display's if I have something plugged into DVI before turning on my PC. Connecting DVI after the POST does nothing. If I have my second monitor plugged in via DVI it will POST but mobo gives a error code related to GPU only if I have something also plugged into displayport. If only using DVI and HDMI then no mobo error beeps. If I have something plugged into DVI and DP then I get bios beeps for no GPU however it proceeds to boot to windows and displays normally. I can then log in and do whatever I want including gaming with relatively zero issues. Part of the problem is I've been thinking about selling this card to try and get a 2080 or 2080 Ti, but obviously people need DP working without DVI. I'm just lucky to have a 2nd monitor that only has DVI. I've tried flashing the bios with a few different Stock bios's. Mine is the Aorus Xtreme Edition as well, but obviously it's only writing to the DVI bios. I tried hooking up an old GTX 650 that I know works, and making the 1080 Ti a secondary GPU but I get no video output on either GPU. So what I'm left with is tomorrow I plan on buying a Ryzen 3400G to replace my 1600 so I can enable onboard graphics and then only connect the 1080 Ti to my displayport monitor and try to flash the DP BIOS. I might keep the card, but ever since getting this new monitor I've been using DP so I can do 2560x1440 @ 120hz with HDR10 and GSync however, it's finicky. When going into a game the monitor black screens for a solid 5ish seconds while switching to GSync, and sometimes when I change windows volume in full screen game it black screens twice while trying to overlay the windows volume in the top left. I have a feeling it's the DP bios issue. I doubt there's another way, and I think it's unlikely someone will see this before I try the 3400G, but I figured I'd make a post and see what happens.


----------



## Webster200x

Webster200x said:


> Hi, so I have some problems with a Aorus 1080ti xtreme the problem is that the card is not being recognised in any of my systems besides a x99. Systems that I tried for now and nothing.
> 
> -Asus z390 Maximus XI Hero
> -Asus z370 Maximus X hero
> -Evga z170 Classified K
> -Gigabyte Aorus z390 Master
> Yet on my Asus X99 Pro its working and giving video output any ideas what would be the problem here? Tried different bios as well with no luck.



Any thoughts with this issue?

Tried Asus Strix Bios, EVGA Bios and other Aorus bios but nothing seems to work any thoughts'?


----------



## Algy

Hi, I've recently bought an used 1080ti non-extreme. 

1- Is there any benefit from update to a newest bios?
2- Regarding temps, the card is almost in contact with my noctua nh-d15 and ambient temp is nearly 25C. Playing some COD:MW campaing, the card reachs 77C, is this ok? the fans are dead silence if I compare to my previos 1080 G1 Gaming.

thanks


----------



## Algy

Algy said:


> Hi, I've recently bought an used 1080ti non-extreme.
> 
> 1- Is there any benefit from update to a newest bios?
> 2- Regarding temps, the card is almost in contact with my noctua nh-d15 and ambient temp is nearly 25C. Playing some COD:MW campaing, the card reachs 77C, is this ok? the fans are dead silence if I compare to my previos 1080 G1 Gaming.
> 
> thanks


Regarding 2: I re applied thermal paste, mx-4, and now temps are 73/74C with fans on auto (60%), so an improve overall


----------



## abaker339

Algy said:


> Regarding 2: I re applied thermal paste, mx-4, and now temps are 73/74C with fans on auto (60%), so an improve overall


I've used Arctic Silver on my Xtreme version, and I normally use MSI Afterburner and set custom fan curve for normal use, then I have 2 profile's saved. 1st is for 150% power limit and 90% constant fan speed, and the second is 130% power limit, 90C temp limit, and 90% constant fan speed, which under full load I'm typically below 70C all the time, even several hours into gaming. Usually between 50-68C depending on the game. I also have a Thermaltake View37 that I leave the side panel off, with the GPU vertically mounted, and my room fan I sometimes turn off it's rotate and let it point air directly at my computer from across the room, which helps when room temp is pretty warm, like 70F or hotter.


----------



## Algy

abaker339 said:


> I've used Arctic Silver on my Xtreme version, and I normally use MSI Afterburner and set custom fan curve for normal use, then I have 2 profile's saved. 1st is for 150% power limit and 90% constant fan speed, and the second is 130% power limit, 90C temp limit, and 90% constant fan speed, which under full load I'm typically below 70C all the time, even several hours into gaming. Usually between 50-68C depending on the game. I also have a Thermaltake View37 that I leave the side panel off, with the GPU vertically mounted, and my room fan I sometimes turn off it's rotate and let it point air directly at my computer from across the room, which helps when room temp is pretty warm, like 70F or hotter.


thanks for your feedback. I need to play a little with the fan curve to achieve better clocks, and this could be related to curve OC which I read it's better for this GPUs


----------



## fluffi444

gpvecchi said:


> No, your bios is newer, I checked the build date. BTW, do you have a DVI monitor? If so, can you please dump your bios? This card uses different bioses if DVI/HDMI/Displayport monitors are connected.


Hey Fellow! I'm In the same desperate situation like you. I search as well for the latest 86.02.39.40.5E DVI-Version.
Did you had success in the meantime finding this version?

My original Bios is F20 and cannot be udpated with latest BIOS from GB Website. I have the old (not passwort protected) Bios' F3/F3P which can be flashed with nvflash. But I really like to have that 86.02.39.40.5E 

I found nothing...nowere - Only some posts in different forums of some "other" guys searching for the same.
But I guess its you all the time


----------



## gpvecchi

Yes, always me... It seems that anyone with this bios use HDMI/Displayport monitors...


----------



## abaker339

Is there a bios that doesn't make this GPU crash at 72-73C? Pretty much the only game I have this issue with is Overwatch. Basically if I don't have my room fan pointed at my open case and GPU fan at 100% then it reaches 72-73C and Overwatch crashes saying it lost the rendering device, if I keep room fan pointed at case and gpu fans at 100% then it stays below 70C and game doesn't crash. Other games I play I can keep fan at 90% like the new MW, and temps average 55C. Why tf is overwatch causing gpu to heat up to 72C and why would it crash the driver at 72C? And I know its not my CPU because I play 1440p high refresh, and cpu utilization is low, and cpu temps are low because of 280MM aio liquid cooler, cpu temps are maybe 30-40c.


----------



## yoadknux

abaker339 said:


> Is there a bios that doesn't make this GPU crash at 72-73C? Pretty much the only game I have this issue with is Overwatch. Basically if I don't have my room fan pointed at my open case and GPU fan at 100% then it reaches 72-73C and Overwatch crashes saying it lost the rendering device, if I keep room fan pointed at case and gpu fans at 100% then it stays below 70C and game doesn't crash. Other games I play I can keep fan at 90% like the new MW, and temps average 55C. Why tf is overwatch causing gpu to heat up to 72C and why would it crash the driver at 72C? And I know its not my CPU because I play 1440p high refresh, and cpu utilization is low, and cpu temps are low because of 280MM aio liquid cooler, cpu temps are maybe 30-40c.


Overwatch is a weird game, this rendering device thing is a known issue although I haven't heard about temp issues.
Anyway, you don't need to edit or flash any bios, just download msi afterburner and downclock the card to something like 90% power limit, 1V, 1900MHz, should be fully stable and not heat


----------



## wgizmo

Guys I did put AIO Kraken G12 on the card but cant work out which connector on PCB is for fan control  Any help would be nice.


----------



## blitzkrieg666

wgizmo said:


> Guys I did put AIO Kraken G12 on the card but cant work out which connector on PCB is for fan control  Any help would be nice.


Yo, the actual fan header is bottom right near the front HDMI:
https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1627238-gigabyte-aorus-geforce-gtx-1080-ti-owner-s-thread-256.html#post27387257


----------



## TR-909

Hello guys, I have in mind to 'service' my 1080 Ti Gaming OC 11G and planning to change thermal paste (Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut) and the thermal pads on VRMs, VRAM chips, etc. I was looking on information regarding the thickness of the pads (they seem to be thin around 1.0mm) but was thinking of putting something more thick as those factory 1.0mm seem in bad condition (stretched, kinda melted). So I am looking at 1.5mm. Any opinions?

One more thing, according to the manufacturer the card is reported to base clock/ boost in these configurations:
Boost: 1657 MHz / Base: 1544 MHz in OC mode
Boost: 1632 MHz / Base: 1518 MHz in Gaming mode

but when I benchmark the card, it runs locked at 1935 MHz. What am I missing?

PS - Just realized it's the official AORUS thread so apologies for this post


----------



## murenitu

Hello guys.

It's been a long time since I came here and I wanted to ask you a question.

I have a water sli of 1080ti xtreme edition oc 2 o'clock with bios 86.02.39.00.9E

Is there a better or newer bios? if I remember correctly this is the F3p

and then another thing, I only have 1 monitor set by display port. If I had to update the bios what file or method should I do? I remember there were two and you had to be very careful


----------



## xSchizo

Hello People,


Since I don't get which BIOS in which version, is which BIOS (F4 = F3P or something) and so on, I just ask you.
I use my card with display-port only. My monitors are ASUS PG279Q (WQHD, 144Hz, IPS) - both connected with display-port.

I've got the regular AORUS GTX 1080 Ti (non-xtreme) with the following BIOS/driver, etc.:


Release: Mar, 2nd, 2017
Revision: A1

BIOS: 86.02.39.00.9D
Dev-ID: 10DE 1B06 - 1458-3752



SO! I just ask if someone can answer me the following:
Is my BIOS the latest and/or "best" for this card?
Is there a newer/better BIOS for my card?
- If yes: is someone willing to tell me, which BIOS is better and how to install it?


Thanks in advance!


----------



## gpvecchi

@xSchizo
Your bios is the F3P, latest official, but some cards came out with a newer firmware, this is the link:
https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/203383/203383
https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/204303/204303
This is latest bios for HDMI/Displayport connected monitors, and for DVI ones. You can identify them from the D and H in description.
You need to flash the correct bios to corresponding monitor you have connected.
Flash it at your own risk. I suggest to dump yours, and just in case something goes wrong, blind flash it.
@murenitu
https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/203179/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-180508
This is latest bios for you, no DVI version (i'm still looking for it if anyone has!), same reccomendations...


----------



## xSchizo

gpvecchi said:


> @*xSchizo*
> Your bios is the F3P, latest official, but some cards came out with a newer firmware, this is the link:
> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/203383/203383
> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/204303/204303
> This is latest bios for HDMI/Displayport connected monitors, and for DVI ones. You can identify them from the D and H in description.
> You need to flash the correct bios to corresponding monitor you have connected.
> Flash it at your own risk. I suggest to dump yours, and just in case something goes wrong, blind flash it.
> 
> @*murenitu*
> https://www.techpowerup.com/vgabios/203179/gigabyte-gtx1080ti-11264-180508
> This is latest bios for you, no DVI version (i'm still looking for it if anyone has!), same reccomendations...



Hello gpvecchi!


Thank you for the links - it worked like a charm! Thanks sir!


Have a good night and stay healthy!


----------



## AA junkie

xSchizo said:


> Hello gpvecchi!
> 
> 
> Thank you for the links - it worked like a charm! Thanks sir!
> 
> 
> Have a good night and stay healthy!


Any improvements(temps, clocks etc) with the new bios ?`


----------



## xSchizo

AA junkie said:


> Any improvements(temps, clocks etc) with the new bios ?`



Hello AA junkie,


I just asked for the BIOS help to get the "newer/better" one, since I read only good things about it, but I didn't found it, so far. Or I was blind.
I did not monitor any temps or stuff yet since it runs fine. But my subjective perception tells me that it does run better


Cheers!


----------



## gpvecchi

IDK, anyway, if a company invests time and money on developing a new bios, this should have some improvement.


----------



## AA junkie

gpvecchi said:


> IDK, anyway, if a company invests time and money on developing a new bios, this should have some improvement.


You have a point there.
I have a normal(non extreme) Aorus 1080ti with 86.02.39.00.9D bios.
I have 0 issues with this card so far.
I would like to flash it with 86.02.39.40.5F but I am a bit skeptic to flash a vga that works perfectly.
Possible improvements could give me the little 'push' I need to take the decision.


----------



## gpvecchi

Just backup, you can flash your old bios. If someone wants to try, flash the Extreme bios on vanilla Aorus. This is an improvement for sure.


----------



## yoadknux

If there's one thing I learned, is that for the 1080ti, BIOS doesn't really matter. There are some fine differences between them, but not something that makes a big difference.
With Aorus 1080ti it's even more annoying, because it has dual bios. So if you flash something on DP, and then let's say connect do a DVI monitor, the drivers re-configure themselves. This by itself can cause more issues than any benefit a bios flash might have (of course, DDU solves everything, but why bother?)

So to sum it up, I really don't recommend playing around with bioses.
BUT...
If you're in the "I got a beast card and I want to push it to its absolute limits, no % left behind" phase, which I've been in, then I suggest you flash the FTW3 Kingpin BIOS from the 1080ti bios thread. The reason is that it's a bios that deals better with power limits, you can put voltage at 1.093V and not worry about downclocking. I've tested it myself, and it works. I had 2088/6100 fully stable, no artifacts no crashes no power limits on the most harsh tests in the world, that consumed over 350W of power for extended durations, 4k and 8k resolutions, full VRAM load, etc. 

That said, with stock bios I have 2076/6000 on lower voltage, so it doesn't power limit much, and 2050/6000 doesn't power limit at all. So all this bios work, one DP output disabled, etc... for just 38MHz... not worth.


----------



## snorlaxgangs

yoadknux said:


> If there's one thing I learned, is that for the 1080ti, BIOS doesn't really matter. There are some fine differences between them, but not something that makes a big difference.
> With Aorus 1080ti it's even more annoying, because it has dual bios. So if you flash something on DP, and then let's say connect do a DVI monitor, the drivers re-configure themselves. This by itself can cause more issues than any benefit a bios flash might have (of course, DDU solves everything, but why bother?)
> 
> So to sum it up, I really don't recommend playing around with bioses.
> BUT...
> If you're in the "I got a beast card and I want to push it to its absolute limits, no % left behind" phase, which I've been in, then I suggest you flash the FTW3 Kingpin BIOS from the 1080ti bios thread. The reason is that it's a bios that deals better with power limits, you can put voltage at 1.093V and not worry about downclocking. I've tested it myself, and it works. I had 2088/6100 fully stable, no artifacts no crashes no power limits on the most harsh tests in the world, that consumed over 350W of power for extended durations, 4k and 8k resolutions, full VRAM load, etc.
> 
> That said, with stock bios I have 2076/6000 on lower voltage, so it doesn't power limit much, and 2050/6000 doesn't power limit at all. So all this bios work, one DP output disabled, etc... for just 38MHz... not worth.


Thanks for the info. I got the wb version bios 86.02.39.00.DC. I have it run stable at 2066 stock voltage. I was thinking to flash ftwkingpinfix to see how far i can push. But then i read yours and it seems like it's not worth the try for a few mhz and losing some ports.


----------



## d3v0

Curious about stretching the legs of my 1080ti. I have the gigabyte aorus xtreme 11gb. So far with MSI AB, I can run 2000mhz core clock when I set the Core voltage, to 100%, power limit to 150% and Temp Limit to 90c. +0 on both core and memory. HWmonitor shows 1.094v vcore. 

How sensitive is this card to heat?? during extended gaming sessions the core clock sits between 1976mhz and 2000mhz, and doesnt go much above 79c or so. I am considering replacing the TIM with MX4. worth doing?


----------



## yoadknux

d3v0 said:


> Curious about stretching the legs of my 1080ti. I have the gigabyte aorus xtreme 11gb. So far with MSI AB, I can run 2000mhz core clock when I set the Core voltage, to 100%, power limit to 150% and Temp Limit to 90c. +0 on both core and memory. HWmonitor shows 1.094v vcore.
> 
> How sensitive is this card to heat?? during extended gaming sessions the core clock sits between 1976mhz and 2000mhz, and doesnt go much above 79c or so. I am considering replacing the TIM with MX4. worth doing?


2000MHz is default on this version.
The relation between temperature and clocks is not so simple. You lose 12MHz every 10c or so, but higher heat also induces more power limits which also cause the card to downclock. 
Changing Thermal paste won't make your overclock better, but it might make your card more quiet (Temps would probably drop by 5c-10c if done right, since that paste is 3+ years old). The problem is, if you want to work right, you would probably want new thermal pads too. This card is also kinda a pain to disassemble with all the RGB connectors.
I think on air you could maybe do something like 2038/5800 stable. With water something like 2076-2100/6000-6200.


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## lowmotion

Got 2x 1080Ti Aorus, one normal and one xtreme. Both are very close in terms of clock. There is no good way too boost the performace much higher. OC Scanner gave me about +30-50mhz (not really stable) and +400-500 on memory. Never used the shuntmod.

One of my 2070 was fun: needed 3 days to find a secret Bios to unlock the PL a little bit and about one week to find a waterblock outside of the public lists. In the end its all you can do: flash better bios, change to watercooling and use better thermal pads. OC Scanner gave me about +200 on clock and +1300mhz on memory. Its different from the 1080Ti. Much more potential.

Protipp number 1: the PT contains the leds on the card. Disable the leds and you get a few watts for the powerlimit.



Nice to know:


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## ylpkm

Looking at the 1080ti fe memory trimpot mod the board layout is a bit different. Was wondering, anyone know where the gddr5x trimpot mod location is on this card?


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## makatech

gpvecchi said:


> Just backup, you can flash your old bios. If someone wants to try, flash the Extreme bios on vanilla Aorus. This is an improvement for sure.


Thanks 

I am trying this now, running the Extreme bios on my Aorus GeForce GTX 1080 Ti. Currently have everything else on default right now (no Afterburner tweaking at all yet).

Actually first time today updating GPU bios, I have never been playing with GPU bios before.

Used the guide here:
https://www.overclock.net/forum/69-nvidia/1627212-how-flash-different-bios-your-1080-ti.html

using nvflash64, first using the protectoff switch, then saving a backup and finally flashing the bios.

Reinstalled Nvidia drivers using DDU.

Only issue so far is Chrome was black when launching it which was fixable (finding an easy solution on youtube).

Tried some kind of benchmark for 1440p in MSI Kombustor. When running the old bios I scored 2404 points, running the new bios I scored 2464
https://gpuscore.top/msi/kombustor/show.php?id=349073

Now bios 86.02.39.40.5E
earlier 86.02.39.00.9D

Do you know if there are any major differences between Extreme and non Extreme bios for this card? The only thing I notice myself is base clocks for GPU Clock/Default Clock, Memory and Boost being slightly higher (small difference). Perhaps the only advantage running Extreme bios on the non Extreme is it will give you slightly higher speeds in default mode (very small difference)?


----------



## makatech

gpvecchi said:


> Just backup, you can flash your old bios. If someone wants to try, flash the Extreme bios on vanilla Aorus. This is an improvement for sure.


What about wb version bios 86.02.39.00.DC on a non Extreme vanilla Aorus 1080Ti, very bad idea/impossible ? ;-)

Did you try the FTW3 Kingpin bios?


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## gpvecchi

Meh, all the 3 cards share the same hardware, but Aorus and Extreme share same cooling, so you'll have no issues if your chip keeps the clock. WB has better cooling, so card can go too high on temps and crash.
Same for bios with removed power limit, useless on air.


----------



## makatech

gpvecchi said:


> Meh, all the 3 cards share the same hardware, but Aorus and Extreme share same cooling, so you'll have no issues if your chip keeps the clock. WB has better cooling, so card can go too high on temps and crash.
> Same for bios with removed power limit, useless on air.


Thanks, testing some different voltage curves in Afterburner using the Extreme bios on my non Extreme vanilla 1080Ti card. I highly doubt there is a big difference, the biggest difference is probably slightly higher stock/default clocks on the Extreme bios (which is nice if not overclocking using Afterburner). If overclocking using Afterburner I doubt the Extreme bios giving higher performance comparing to to non Extreme bios on a non Extreme card.

Not sure yet if I will go for maximum performance or if I will try to optimizing a 1000 mV curve in Afterburner giving me slightly lower temps and perhaps a more stable fps. Did some quick tests yesterday and a 1000 mV curve giving me between 10200 - 10300 in Time Spy comparing to when going for maximum performance I reached between 10700-10800.

Yes, unfortunately I have air cooling too. Talking about GPUs then cooling with water helps a lot, that's for sure. Many users are using AIO for CPU but not for GPU, probably a mistake since water cooling the GPU would give many users a bigger total performance boost (at least for gaming) comparing to water cooling the CPU. Perhaps I will try cooling GPU with water in the future. Very nice being able to run the system more quiet and with higher performance.


----------



## makatech

Not 100% sure yet but I believe I am able to clock my memory slightly higher after flashing my vanilla Aorus 1080Ti non Extreme card with the Extreme bios. Don't think I managed stable settings +600MHz in Afterburner earlier but now I do. It doesn't have to be because of the Extreme bios, maybe the old bios (86.02.39.00.9D) I was running was slightly outdated.


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## dre998

Question for you all...card is not being detected. I inquired regarding an RMA and it looks like the card had been submitted before, stating "OXIDATION" -- I opened it up and took a look, didn't see anything related to it. Card is not detected anywhere in safe mode or standard. Am I SOL? Or is it possibly the coils/fans causing this?


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## adversary

Not long ago I get Gigabyte Aorus (non Xtreme) 1080 TI. Last owner returned it to shop to get 2080 TI, so I get it with warranty of 6 months. Price was steal. For me it is a big upgrade and I intend to keep card for some time, it is enough for my needs at this moment anyway.

Flashed 86.02.39.40.5E (card had 86.02.39.00.9D). I did not pay attention to benchmarks so I do not know is score better at same clock. What I can state is next - VRAM get little overclock, and card boost more, but final overclock is same. With more agressive fan curve, I have 2050Mhz, or 2038 if card get hot past 60 and some C degree.

Because I intend to keep card for some time (definitely not going to rush to 3000 series until it matures, price drop/refresh get out or whatever), so I would like to do one more refresh to card - replace TIM and thermal pads. I already have Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut so that work would't be a problem. But what bugs me is thermal pads. I do not know which thickness I need. As I read posts from others there is different stock thickness thermal pads used in card.

Some manufacturers of thermal pads do not even have all thickness, just some of them. First I need to know which thickness I need (and which lenght, to not end up short), after that need to search and order every one of them, with whoever sells it with best conductivity pads.

Any suggestions about that?


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## Hitman82

*Possibly dying Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti*

Hello Folks,

I have got a Aorus Xtreme 1080Ti which I had been using for couple of years now and it was running fine. I never overclocked it until a couple weeks ago where I used MSI Afterburner's OC scan feature and used the curve it gave me. Since this very day I started facing game crashes, they will crash either from few seconds in game to few minutes. I tried every possible solution that internet could throw at me.

1. I did clean install of various Nvidia drivers to rule out any driver related issues. (used DDU for clean install of drivers)
2. Tried same Gpu in two different systems (AMD and Intel CPU) just to rule out any specific behavior.
3. Tried using Aorus engine and Precision X1 in hope to reset OC profile, even choosing the the lowest possible frequency like 1621 Mhz on Gpu clock didn't help.
4. My Gpu had F3P BIOS (as per Aorus engine) or Nvidia BIOS version 86.02.39.00.9E. I tried re-flashing same BIOS but crashes remained. I flashed BIOS version 86.02.39.40.5E and crashes still there.

I have noticed that initially this crashing behavior was limited but with every passing day it is becoming more aggressive. I just want to understand if there is anything left that I could try to resolve my issue or shall I consider my Gpu as near dead and go for RMA.


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## mattliston

Did it behave THE SAME between each system? or was behavior only "similar"?


overclocking software has a bad habit of NOT liking to co-exist with other software.




My advice is to clean any and all software related to overclocking, BUT FIRST use the software to reset to default card settings. Reboot after removing software, even if it does not tell you to.




You made the right BIOS choice, per BIOS you had, and the F3P gigabyte offered. However, 1080 TI's rarely have bios issues unless you have had power delivery issues in the past that helped corrupt it. I generally avoid BIOS stuff on video cards unless there is an extremely good reason to touch it, such as fixing a well known performance bug, or the manufacturer themselves recommend it.




If you have CHANGED the bios, be sure you go back to the offered F3P bios on giga's website. Dont cross flash when diagnosing. Bad things can happen.


Have you done basics such as verifying that the power plugs can fullly sit onto the card? Ive had issues with older power supply cables that "snapped" into place, but the pins werent making good contact. I found a gap opposite of the connector clip. Should be nice and tight all around.




My gut feeling is software-related though.


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## Hitman82

mattliston said:


> Did it behave THE SAME between each system? or was behavior only "similar"?
> 
> 
> overclocking software has a bad habit of NOT liking to co-exist with other software.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My advice is to clean any and all software related to overclocking, BUT FIRST use the software to reset to default card settings. Reboot after removing software, even if it does not tell you to.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You made the right BIOS choice, per BIOS you had, and the F3P gigabyte offered. However, 1080 TI's rarely have bios issues unless you have had power delivery issues in the past that helped corrupt it. I generally avoid BIOS stuff on video cards unless there is an extremely good reason to touch it, such as fixing a well known performance bug, or the manufacturer themselves recommend it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you have CHANGED the bios, be sure you go back to the offered F3P bios on giga's website. Dont cross flash when diagnosing. Bad things can happen.
> 
> 
> Have you done basics such as verifying that the power plugs can fullly sit onto the card? Ive had issues with older power supply cables that "snapped" into place, but the pins werent making good contact. I found a gap opposite of the connector clip. Should be nice and tight all around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My gut feeling is software-related though.


Thanks for taking out time to respond.

My initial system where I first tried OC was with i5 6600k and PSU Corsair RM750x, I checked the power supply cables were properly fit.

My other system is 3900x with PSU Corsair HX750, I experienced similar behavior is games where they would crash either within seconds or few minutes into the game.

I ensured that I reboot my system after every install/uninstall. Also didn't install 2 different OC software at same time. I guess I took every possible troubleshooting step and precaution, therefore I am quite frustrated now and clueless on next troubleshooting step. 

Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk


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## mattliston

Even if you had only one software at a time, every software leaves an evidence trail, or garbage somewhere.


THAT is what I think is happening.


Did you try cleaning the registry with ccleaner?


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## Hitman82

mattliston said:


> Even if you had only one software at a time, every software leaves an evidence trail, or garbage somewhere.
> 
> 
> THAT is what I think is happening.
> 
> 
> Did you try cleaning the registry with ccleaner?


While uninstalling I tried Revo Uninstaller which I suppose also clean registry entries but I will clean using CCleaner.

Additionally I also checked Power plan in use and found out that it was Balanced so I switched to Performance but still the crash remains. 

Sent from my Redmi Note 7 Pro using Tapatalk


----------



## mattliston

Careful with ccleaner. default settings have you remove more than some feel comfortable.


I always go into the tools or options, and disable smartcleaning (active scanning for junk files, slows system down), and I tell the custom clean settings on the left to skip cookies, session, and other obvious stuff.




Use the registry cleaner to do its thing.




One final thing to try after ccleaner, "windows key" + R, and type 2 different things, %appdata% and %localappdata%


Seperately, they simply open system folders, and simply verify there are zero folders specific to overclocking software.


Dont just willy nilly delete them. Open them up and make sure they contain what you expect. If you cannot confirm they are correct, leave them alone!


----------



## Hitman82

mattliston said:


> Careful with ccleaner. default settings have you remove more than some feel comfortable.
> 
> 
> I always go into the tools or options, and disable smartcleaning (active scanning for junk files, slows system down), and I tell the custom clean settings on the left to skip cookies, session, and other obvious stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the registry cleaner to do its thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One final thing to try after ccleaner, "windows key" + R, and type 2 different things, %appdata% and %localappdata%
> 
> 
> Seperately, they simply open system folders, and simply verify there are zero folders specific to overclocking software.
> 
> 
> Dont just willy nilly delete them. Open them up and make sure they contain what you expect. If you cannot confirm they are correct, leave them alone!



I tried what you suggested but no result.

I thought to underclock it with MSI Afterburner, tried negative 400 on Gpu Core Clock and 502 on Memory clock. Even after applying this setting my card boosted to 1962 Mhz on core clock in the game and crashed. I tried same clock in Unigine Heaven benchmark at extreme and it crashed at 23/26 scene. Though it didn't crash in MSI Kombustor test and maintained around 1550 Mhz on core clock.
This is very strange behavior, where even with an underclock it is still boosting too high. Additionally I found out that 2 of DP ports on card are not working, though I do not recall testing them prior to this because I kept it connected to this port since start.

The more I try to solve it the more I start believing that it is on the verge of dying.


----------



## yoadknux

Hitman82 said:


> mattliston said:
> 
> 
> 
> Careful with ccleaner. default settings have you remove more than some feel comfortable.
> 
> 
> I always go into the tools or options, and disable smartcleaning (active scanning for junk files, slows system down), and I tell the custom clean settings on the left to skip cookies, session, and other obvious stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Use the registry cleaner to do its thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> One final thing to try after ccleaner, "windows key" + R, and type 2 different things, %appdata% and %localappdata%
> 
> 
> Seperately, they simply open system folders, and simply verify there are zero folders specific to overclocking software.
> 
> 
> Dont just willy nilly delete them. Open them up and make sure they contain what you expect. If you cannot confirm they are correct, leave them alone!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I tried what you suggested but no result.
> 
> I thought to underclock it with MSI Afterburner, tried negative 400 on Gpu Core Clock and 502 on Memory clock. Even after applying this setting my card boosted to 1962 Mhz on core clock in the game and crashed. I tried same clock in Unigine Heaven benchmark at extreme and it crashed at 23/26 scene. Though it didn't crash in MSI Kombustor test and maintained around 1550 Mhz on core clock.
> This is very strange behavior, where even with an underclock it is still boosting too high. Additionally I found out that 2 of DP ports on card are not working, though I do not recall testing them prior to this because I kept it connected to this port since start.
> 
> The more I try to solve it the more I start believing that it is on the verge of dying.
Click to expand...

Regarding the clocks, it shouldn't crash Heaven at less than 2000, although this still sounds like a software issue. Do you have a spare drive you can connect as a boot device (to test a clean Win10 without hurting your current setup)? That's what I would do. 

Regarding the DP outputs, from my experience they are kinda wonky, first of all some of them don't work depending on what other connections you use, and the others from my experience aren't very "hotswap friendly"


----------



## alv-OC

Hello gents;

I'm looking for a moded BIOS that allows me to push the voltage so I can go over my current limit. My GPU setup is: Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Extreme with EK waterblock, BIOS: 86.02.39.40.5E, and Shunt Power mod done (with Panasonic 5.0mhO shunt resistors) I can push it to 2075Mhz on the core and 6145 on the memory with a max voltage is 1.094v. temp never goes over 50ºC so I think that I could easily achieve 2100+ MHz just with a little bit extra of voltage.

Does anyone have such a BIOS or can point me where can I dowload it? Perhaps the FTW3 BIOS allows higher voltages?

Many thanks in advance.


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## mattliston

try stock memory clocks to push core harder. if that suddenly works to allow you hit hit 2100mhz, then you simply had unstable memory clocks


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## alv-OC

I just tryed leaving the mem to stock freq. and the core was a little bit longer stable at 2100Mhz but it also crashed, temp never exceeded 45ºC... so the problem its not the memory right? how could I rise the voltage above 1.094v? I've seen others arounf 1.105v...


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## gpvecchi

alv-OC said:


> Hello gents;
> 
> I'm looking for a moded BIOS that allows me to push the voltage so I can go over my current limit. My GPU setup is: Aorus GTX 1080 Ti Extreme with EK waterblock, BIOS: 86.02.39.40.5E, and Shunt Power mod done (with Panasonic 5.0mhO shunt resistors) I can push it to 2075Mhz on the core and 6145 on the memory with a max voltage is 1.094v. temp never goes over 50ºC so I think that I could easily achieve 2100+ MHz just with a little bit extra of voltage.
> 
> Does anyone have such a BIOS or can point me where can I dowload it? Perhaps the FTW3 BIOS allows higher voltages?
> 
> Many thanks in advance.


Do you have it connected in DVI? Could you please dump your bios? Many thanks


----------



## TucoPacifico

So that's been 3+ years with the amazing Aorus GTX 1080 Ti. Now the Gigabyte Gaming OC RTX 3080 arrived (ordered at 20 Sept. price) and looks like I will still make a good buck off the old Aorus. Very high value and reliability. Good work Gigabyte.


----------



## Slackaveli

Still have mine , too, as the back-up. Got my Asus 3090 yesterday. 

1080ti Aorus is still great.


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## herpderpsky

hello friends im one of the guys who speaks to buldzoid but hes to busy for me now a days and i was wondering if u guys can help me get more power in to my aorus 1080 ti extreme i did the shunt mod buy piggy backing 003 mohms shunts on top of 005 mohms shunts gave me 10 more c 15% more ipc my temps are low af so need more power plz bios mod or something idk after a thermalelectric heatpump i have a temp of 25 c idle and 35 on loud on my gpu















my best score et I scored 9 523 in Time Spy


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## herpderpsky

I'ma ask gigabits to give me the extreme bios 
my best score et I scored 9 523 in Time Spy I seen 1080 ti run 2.2 core and 7ghz vram on water 1.2 v


----------



## fluffi444

Hey Guys...
Can someone give me a short instuction how to remove the FAN assembly?
One of the FANs starting to shake (a bit) and to make sounds starting 70% load.
It's not hitting its surrounding (like it oftens does - mine also. Soveld this by bending LED holders a bit).

But now the FAN bearing is going to die.

Is it possible to remove the FAN assembly only without dismounting the whole card?


----------



## K1ngdöm

fluffi444 said:


> Hey Guys...
> Can someone give me a short instuction how to remove the FAN assembly?
> One of the FANs starting to shake (a bit) and to make sounds starting 70% load.
> It's not hitting its surrounding (like it oftens does - mine also. Soveld this by bending LED holders a bit).
> 
> But now the FAN bearing is going to die.
> 
> Is it possible to remove the FAN assembly only without dismounting the whole card?


Hey; this is a video about taking it off a Gigabyte 1080 Extreme Edition. They use the same cooler pretty much. 



 Also if you need new fans here you go: 95mm GIGABYTE AORUS EXTRME GTX 1070 1080 Ti 11G Triple Fan 4Pin T129215BU R241 | eBay
And if you are trying to replace the fans; you have to suck it up and take it apart.


----------



## DMDuncan37

Hello,

When my 2nd repast on my 1080ti Aorus Extrem.
One of the wires of a connector is broken when unplugging and another connector during handling.

To repair, *i need the reference of Pin & Socket Connectors for 1080ti Aorus Extrem*
I cannot find the information on the gpu, manual or other.

Can you confirm 4pins JST 2.0mm ph ?



And

4 pins Yellow (1) : Fans ?

4 pins Green (2) : RVB ?

4 pins Blue (3) : Stop Fan ?

4 Pin Red (4) : RGB ?

Thank you


----------



## adversary

Is still possible to find waterblock (I have already custom watercooling, so adding any block would not be problem, even if fittings are different, I would machine them) for Gigabyte 1080 TI AORUS (non- Xtreme) ??

looking at EKWB site, seems it is out of stock (end of life)
found some Byksky on ebay, but all is possible to order only from China. I'm near EU and at this moment I can't order anything from USA or China. Only EU and UK stuff.

is there any other shop around or block still unknown for me, which have waterblock to fits this GPU?

thanks


----------



## V5-aps

I have a Phanteks waterblock on mine, so that's another option if you can find one.


----------



## Carlos_KH

Hi dudes! I want to replace my thermal pads but I need to know the thermal pads thickness. Can somebody tell me that? Thx


----------



## XDDante

Anyone knows the correct size and thickness of the thermal pads for an AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce Xtreme Edition 11G? Maybe is hidden in here but going trough 143 pages is gonna take a lot of time...


----------



## taitogr

You could just use K5 PRO instead of all these thermal pads and save all the trouble...


----------



## ScriptKiddie

XDDante said:


> Anyone knows the correct size and thickness of the thermal pads for an AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Waterforce Xtreme Edition 11G? Maybe is hidden in here but going trough 143 pages is gonna take a lot of time...


Go for it.









Gigabyte AORUS GeForce GTX 1080 Ti Owner's Thread


Quote: Originally Posted by RavageTheEarth Alright so I'm at home waiting for UPS to drop the block off. I've drained the loop and covered the card with Fujipoly Extreme pads. Trying to get as much done beforehand as possible. The desperation is real bahaha




www.overclock.net


----------



## sawy3r

I'm running two Aorus 1080 Ti Xtreme Editions in SLI and the top one gets so hot it's not useable for more than a short while. This is because I only have a 2 slot gap inbetween PCI slots so there is hardly any room between them, the top one is nearly touching the bottom one.

I've ordered a Kraken G12 and Thermaltake Water 3.0 Performance C 120mm AIO, along with a Noctua NF-A9 fan. Trying to suss out what heatsinks I need, nearly there (taking some measurements off an image). Keen to know if anyone else here is running a G12 and any issues they've faced?

My rig is for gaming, but I mine with it when not gaming (so about 22 hours day, 7 days a week). Have been running the lower one at 70C steady pulling about 42MH/s ETH.


----------



## Firann

Hey guys.

I have a Ryzen 1700, Asus CVIH and a Gigabyte GTX 1080 Ti AORUS 11GB . 

Today while playing Humankind, I got the driver crash error and screen turned black. Could still hear sound from the game.

I restarted the PC but monitor wouldn't light it, using either HDMI or Displayport. I tried a second monitor and that showed No signal message. 

I then checked on Mobo for any errors and the mobo was on AA (which is a good thing) but the VGA Led stayed lit. I removed the GPU from the primary PCI slot and used the second x8 slot but still same error. The GPU in both cases has its RGB on but fans don't spin.

Fortunately I had a GTX 580 (!!!) around and installed that in the PC. GPU doesn't work on the PCI x16 slot but works fine on the x8 slot.

Did my GPU just go bust and took the PCI x16 with it? 

The only thing I haven't checked yet is using different 8pin cables from the PSU and ports from it to make sure its not a PSU problem. I don't have the PSU pack with me, as its at my parents, but was wondering if there is any other way to check whether the 1080ti is working or not.

Thanks.


----------

