# Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club



## ScribbyDaGreat

*Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club*
*Please contact Scribby with any questions - cheers!*










*The Manufacturer's Link
CLICK ME*

*Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Details*

*EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW IN ONE PLACE!*

*Overview of Monitor*


Spoiler: Monitor FAQs




These are purchased on eBay. All sellers are reputable (we have not had one flake on delivery - at least this has not been posted here to date 3/31/12.) Search for Yamakasi Catleap - you'll find plenty.
Variants of these monitors are all ~$400 2560x1440, 27" IPS monitors sold in Korea, not the US. They retail for ~$250 in S. Korea. In other words, they're $700-$1000 monitors for 1/2 the price.
All older (READ: those shipped in February 2012 - 2B models) Catleap monitors seem to hit 85hz+ (97hz 100hz+ being the highest so far, which is the GPU's limit at this resolution).
Newer Catleaps seem to have a top OC limit of 65-67hz. Very few people have received OC-ready Catleaps in March 2012.
A PCB swap is possible to make newer Catleaps OC up to 97h 120hz with the proper GPU (READ: nVidia 680.) We have not sourced these PCBs at this time (3/20/02), but have several leads. See *post 1002* for pics of a successful swap.
No 240V/120V step down transformer or EU adapter needed. All you need is a generic PSU cable.
It's a glossy display, no AG coating
Inputs will vary depending on the model you purchased. Dual DVI, audio, power, and HDMI are the only inputs (most will have power/DVI only.)
It's an 8 bit display. There are "10 bit" variants out there on Ebay. From what I understand, it's not a true 10 bit panel anyway. *Useful info about 8 vs 10 bit color*, thank you SJetski71
No OSD (on this basic "Lite" model), just LED backlight brightness (and volume as applicable).
It has an LG IPS LCD panel, the same one found in 27" iMacs. The Dell u2711 uses the LM270WQ2, these use the LM270WQ1.
Squaretrade reps say that they'll cover this monitor, but we won't really know until someone tries to send in a monitor under warranty.
Yes, it's fine for gaming. Due to the lack of any extra inputs input lag is on par with a 720p TV.
It's 60hz default, not 97hz or 120hz. You can OC some variant of these monitors - see the section on OCing below (newer models speed limited to 65-67hz - for now.)
Monitor has a VESA mount (3" square).
Most buyers will not have to pay import taxes as that is handled by the seller.
People have complained about non-functioning tracking numbers. I have not had an issue and I have purchased two of these. Make sure you use the link to EMS below (assuming your seller shipped EMS.)
You can remove the back silver arc, stand, bezel very easily.
There is a UK variant of the monitor, the Hazro HZ27WC, but it's significantly more expensive. As the manual and any OSD will be in Korean, the Hazro manual may be helpful.
There may be a valid manufacturer's warranty, but it requires you to ship the monitor back to Korea (roughly $130 shipping.) Some sellers have started offering 14 day returns (same deal with shipping costs though.)
The stand does tilt back and is pretty wobbly.
Some sellers ship the monitor wrapped in bubble wrap - ask and we can let you know those that do (the extra protection cannot hurt.)
Some ship FedEx others EMS. EMS, once it enters the US, is delivered by the United States Postal Service.
There are more models, similar to Catleap out there, review this thread (have fun!) to see more - *CLICKY*
Will your video card be able to push one, two, three or more Catleaps? I don't know - check the card's manufacturer page and read up on the specs - then you will know.
Thanks to brucethemoose for compiling much of this information. 






Spoiler: Q270 Monitor Versions



5 models of the Q270 - Click Each to Visit Manufacturer's Website

1. With Speakers/Without Glass

2. With Speakers/With Glass

3. Without Speakers/Without Glass

4. Without Speakers/With Glass

5. Dual Input DVI/HDMI w/speakers w/o glass





Spoiler: Monitor Specs



*Monitor specs are identical for each model (inputs, glass, speakers are the only differences. Multi-input is the only one with an OSD.)*

*The bezel on all models is 1" top, left, and right with 1 1/2" for the bottom.*







*Fees, Taxes, & Shipping*


Spoiler: VAT, Fees, Taxes by Country



*Australia/NZ*: from evangelionstar

I am from Australia but also familiar with New Zealand's limits too.
There is no tax or duties payable in Australia for an item via post or courier so long as the total cost is below $1000. Its very straight forward. Value under $1000 and your all set.
For Nz its around $400 or so (from memory). Basically if the charges of Duty + GST is less than $60NZD then nothing is payable.

*Canada*: from keveinsbane

In Canada, there is no Customs or duties for complete LCD colour monitors.
There is no tax on "gifts" valued at <$60, and no tax on any items < $20 value. Tax in Canada varies depending on your province.
My monitor was marked as a $30 value, and I paid no taxes or duties on my purchase.

*Estonia*: from skypc

Ordered Catleap to Estonia from Green-sum. Green-sum stated on invoice the worth of te monitor as 30$ and the shipping price was about 110$. Tax was calculated from worth stated on invoice + shipping price and I had to pay 25% from this sum, $140.

*France*: from charlesk

So I'm from France and I paid for a 311€ ($406) monitor :
customs duty : 43 €
VAT : 69€ (19.6%)
filing fees : 21€
total : 133€

So here is what happened :
- the parcel got stuck in customs, reason : no invoice
- 1 week after I received a letter from the customs. They asked for an invoice and the paypal receipt
- I asked dreamseller for the invoice, he said that he could make one with the value I wanted, but I didn't want to fake the paypal receipt so I declared the real price.

What I just did for a new order (dreamseller) :
- I asked him to join an invoice with a credible value in the parcel ($200), so that the parcel can go trough customs without them contacting me.
- with this, VAT should be lower, but I don't know about the other two taxes, I'll see.

*Japan*: from mumbles37

No customs or import fees to Japan

*Netherlands*: from djankie

Custom fees with green sum : 35.81 euro.

Custom fees with samsungDC or something; 43,41

*Sweden*: from slaktfarfar

After my Catleap got stuck in customs i had to pay 25% of what i paid for the screen ($394) which was $98.
I bought mine from Green-sum.
And i know another one ordering from green-sum also had to pay taxes.
But another guy ordering from dcsamsungmall didnt have to.
green-sum used EMS and dcsamsungmall used fedex maybe thats was because.

*U.K.*: From whybother

Marked at £30 the customs fee will simply be VAT or £6. The shipping company also charges a fee tho.

*http://www.dutycalculator.com/new-import-duty-and-tax-calculation/*
Monitors imported to the UK:
Value <£135 = 20%
Value >£135 = 14% (Duty) + 20% of Value + Duty
Plus shipping company fee.
*http://www.dutycalculator.com/help_center/will-there-be-any-extra-charges-from-the-shipping-provider/*
If the monitor was marked with a value of £250 and shipped via Royal Mail, your total customs fee would be £100. Gotta love this country...
If marked as a gift and less than £36 there should be no customs charge tho.





Spoiler: Where to Track Your Monitor



*Shipping EMS*: *CLICK HERE* - You will receive two dialog boxes BEFORE you see the tracking screen and two AFTER you enter your number. Just hit "CANCEL" for all four (I don't read Korean so I have no idea what we would be saying "OK" to!)

EMS Tracking looks like this.


DateStatusPost office/AirportDetails19:11 07-Mar-2012Posting/CollectionBUSANJIN

Posting office zip code : 614013

Destination country : U.S.A

03:25 08-Mar-2012Arrival at outward office of exchangeINTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE

07:54 08-Mar-2012Departure from outward office of exchangeINTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE

Dispatch number : 154

08:25 08-Mar-2012Handed over to Air carrierINCHEON

08:55 08-Mar-2012Received by Air carrierINCHEON

16:55 08-Mar-2012Departure from AirportINCHEON

Flight date : 16:40 Thu 08 Mar 2012 (KST)

Flight number : OZ214

10:05 08-Mar-2012Airrival at Destination AirportSAN FRANCISCO

10:47 08-Mar-2012Delivered to Destination AirportSAN FRANCISCO



However, you can track through *USPS* - it looks like this:



YOUR LABEL NUMBER

SERVICE

STATUS OF YOUR ITEM

DATE & TIME

LOCATION

FEATURES
 



YOUR EMS NUMBER



Express Mail International®



Origin Post is Preparing Shipment







Proof of Delivery









Inbound Into Customs















Processed Through Sort Facility



March 08, 2012, 2:58 pm



ISC SAN FRANCISCO (USPS)











Processed Through Sort Facility



March 08, 2012, 7:54 am



SEOUL, KOREA











Acceptance



March 07, 2012, 7:11 pm



KOREA

 

Other Shipping? I don't have any experience with that and if you have your monitor shipped via a service other than EMS, please let the OP know so this can be updated.



*What You Get/Power Issues/Stand Removal*


Spoiler: What's in the Box?



*In the Box*


The Monitor!
Base for Stand
Korean Manual (awesome!)
Power Brick
Power Cord
Dual DVI Cable
Speaker Cable (if purchased that model)
HDMI Cable (same)







Spoiler: The Power Cable - Cabling Issues - Power Bricks



*Power Cable*: These monitors come with a power brick (like you use with a laptop) and a funky European/Asian market power cable as pictured below. You DO NOT need a special power cable for the power brick. Any three-prong power cable, from a PSU, Monitor, etc., will work just fine.

*Cable That Comes With Monitor*



*Power Brick *





*REPLACEMENT POWER BRICKS*: from mango45 - For those that need replacement AC adapters, they can be found by searching eBay for *EFL-2202W Adapter*. This adapter appears to have the correct specifications - 110-240V input and 24V 5A output - and the tip has the same pinout: + on pins 1 and 3 and - on pins 2 and 4.

*DVI Cables*: Remember, these monitors are DUAL DVI so if you have an older (read: non-dual DVI) cable your monitor will display some interesting things. See the pic below for the proper and improper cables.

*Good Cable-Example*



*Bad Cable*



Here is a link to an eBay page that sells power brick that have been reported to work cooler than stockers. Some have reported bricks dying from the word go, try these if you aren't getting the proper voltage out of yours. *CLICKY These are seriously pricey at the moment (3/20/12) try searching around for others, but this is the type you need.*





Spoiler: Stand Removal



*First, remove the 8 screws around the outside of the monitor (not shown - pretty obvious.) Next, you need to find a location that is separating easily - mine was right next to the power, brightness, volume buttons. While separating the two bezels gently pry the pieces apart with a flat blade screw driver. Don't be rough! As long as you are applying enough pressure on the bezel with your hand the screw driver will easily pop the little clips. Continue around the bezel the same way - separate and pop. You will notice that it is best to pry the bezel apart at the very point where the two pieces do not want to separate easily - this is a tab.*


*The trick to not harming your bezel is this - the front bezel has a bit of a lip so that when you insert your flat blade you want the blade against the back of the monitor. If you are then you won't deform the soft plastic of the front bezel.*



*Once you have the outside bezel removed, turn the monitor over and you will see 4 silver screws around the outside corners. Remove these.*


*Once you have the 4 screws removed tilt the screen up and you will find it plugged in at 3 locations. Simply unclip each one and the monitor is free from the housing. The top two clips require you to press the edges of the clip inward for them to be removed. The bottom one (white cabling) is like a PSU tab - lift and the lines will separate.*


*With the monitor out this is what you see. The four boxes are the screws you need to cleanly remove the silver arc piece. I didn't! See below.*


*Here are the top screws for the silver arc.*


*Here is the bottom of the back panel and the mount for the stand. Remove the red box screws to release the silver arc. The green box screws hold the stand in place.*


*Here is the bottom connector for the silver arc - see how these pieces are broken? I thought you could simply pull the arc off - ummm, no, you can't.*


*Here is a shot of one side of the stand mount. You could remove the two nuts holding the stand to the swivel mount if you want. These are 10mm nuts. I was going to go this route but found it really tight in there to get a 10mm anything to get the nut free so I just removed the whole bracket (saves a few ounces in weight!) Remove these screws - and two not pictured - to release the stand bracket.*


*Here is the back with the stand bracket removed. Re-insert screws here for the panel hold down.*


*Here is the stand and bracket removed as one piece. As you can see it is held in place with a total of 6 screws.*


*The Catleap uses a 75mm (3") VESA mounting solution. Here are some pics of my wall mount solution - look China and South Korea working together to bring me awesome video!*


*This is an up close of my wall mount and the power brick mounted to the wall with velcro.*




*Finally, some shots with the monitor mounted - both off and on. Enjoy!*






*Color Calibration/Overclocking*


Spoiler: Color Adjustments



Get monitor test program from here - *CLICKY*


> Quickie install procedure (Windows 7 - not sure about others).
> Go to Display, Screen Resolution.
> Select your monitor and click "*Advanced Settings*"
> Select "*Color Management*" tab
> Click "*Color Management . . .*" button
> Click "*Use my settings for this device*" check box
> Click "*Add*" under the "Profiles associated with this device" box.
> Select "*Browse*" and select the color profiles you want to add - I added all three Toasty made so I could decide which one I liked.
> With more than one profile in the box - simply click "*Set as Default Profile*" to make that one default.
> Cheers! Again, a huge thank you to Toasty for these!


That will set the color profile to use in color managed programs, but that won't load the profile's gamma correction. You also have to go to the Advanced tab and enable the "Use Windows display calibration" option. The option is grayed out in the initial screen, so you have to click "Change system defaults..." and go to the Advanced tab there to enable it.

However, that uses Windows's LUT loader, which only supports 8-bit values, so gradients will have some banding. I have an alternate method of loading the gamma correction using a third-party LUT loader. This takes advantage of the 10-bit LUT + dithering that AMD/ATI cards have, so gradients stay smooth. I'd like to know if there are any NVIDIA cards where you can use the LUT loader and still have smooth gradients.

*HERE IS THE ZIP FILE FOR ALL THREE TOASTYX COLOR PROFILES - SEE THE MIDDLE OF THE SCREEN -* *CLICKY*

I created a zip that includes the LUT loader from *Argyll CMS* along with the native and d65 color profiles: *catleap-profiles.zip*

1. Copy the "Color Profiles" folder to C:\ (if you want it somewhere else, you'll have to edit the "Load catleap" shortcuts)
2. Double-click one of the "Load catleap" shortcuts to load the corresponding profile.
3. Copy the shortcut you want to use to the Startup folder in the start menu if you want it to load automatically on boot.
4. If you want color management, you still have to go through the steps mentioned above to set the correct profile, but don't enable the "Use Windows display calibration" option if you're using this method.

You can use this image to test if gradients are smooth:









*Additional information from ToastyX*

Measurements and color information for the catleap:

The brightness ranges from 25 cd/m² to 315 cd/m². There are 30 levels of brightness, and each button press averages around 10 cd/m².

Native contrast is around 1025:1 in the middle of the screen. Calibration will bring that down to around 875:1 or higher, depending on the white point.

Native gamma is actually pretty close to 2.2 out of the box.

The native white point is too green, and the brightest white has a different hue from the rest of the grayscale. This is not unusual for LG IPS panels, but most IPS monitors with color controls have the default contrast set one or two notches below the brightest white to avoid this. Since this monitor has no color controls, it just shows the panel's native output. In my experience, the white point being too green is also common with LG IPS panels, but this can vary from panel to panel. These are the main reasons why it looks "off" to me out of the box. With calibration, it looks great.

Several points I should add, colorimeters are not totally accurate with white point measurements, and measurements can drift with age, so results can vary from unit to unit and between different colorimeters. The results can also vary on different parts of the screen since most monitors are not perfectly uniform. My particular panel is slightly redder at the top edge and slightly yellower at the bottom edge, but most of the middle is consistent. Colorimeters also need different filters for different backlights (especially for wider gamuts), so that also affects accuracy. This monitor's gamut is close to sRGB, so that's not a major problem.

I have three colorimeters:

Retail Eye-One Display 2 (oldest)
SpectraView-branded Eye-One Display 2
ColorEyes-branded XRite DTP94B

The SpectraView Eye-One Display 2 was unusable on this monitor. I don't know if this colorimeter is failing or if it just has different filters for wider gamut monitors, but it wanted to add way too much red.

The retail Eye-One Display 2 and the DTP94B were pretty close to each other. Both removed a lot of green along with some red, with the DTP94 leaving slightly more green. I always preferred the Eye-One Display 2 over the DTP94B because the DTP94B always left a little more green than I liked. The retail Eye-One's result looks more natural to me, but I have no way of knowing for sure which one is more accurate without a spectrophotometer.

Another problem I should mention is the Eye-One Display 2's brightness measurement drifts downwards when it gets warmer. The DTP94B doesn't have that problem, so I did the brightness measurements with the DTP94B. Black point measurements are also hard for colorimeters, so it's hard to get exact contrast values. The DTP94 only reports to two decimal places.

I don't usually like to post color profiles since colors can vary from unit to unit, but since this monitor benefits greatly from white point calibration and the gamma doesn't change much, I will include three profiles here (all gamma 2.2):

*catleap-6500k.icm* - This is the one produced by the retail Eye-One Display 2. Contrast is around 875:1.
*catleap-d65.icm* - This is the one produced by the DTP94. This one has slightly more green. Contrast is around 900:1.

*** Edit: I just noticed the Eye-One's profile makes blues purplish in color-managed programs, so the DTP94 (D65) profile is probably the better one to use. ***

To get 115-120 cd/m² with those profiles, use 10 button presses up from the lowest brightness.

*catleap-native.icm* - This one keeps the native white point while adjusting the rest of the grayscale to match. Since the white point can vary from unit to unit, use this if the other two profiles look strange to you. This one preserves the native contrast ratio.

To get 115 cd/m² with this profile, use 8 button presses up from the lowest brightness.

I also need to write up how to load these profiles. ATI/AMD GPUs are capable of displaying 8-bit color from a 10-bit LUT with dithering just like professional LCD monitors do, which allows you to calibrate without getting banding, but you'll need a third-party LUT loader because the LUT loader in Windows only supports 8-bit values. I don't know of a way to enable dithering with NVIDIA cards in Windows, so NVIDIA users will get some banding when using a color profile. Mac OS X enables dithering for both ATI/AMD and NVIDIA GPUs, so gradients should always be smooth there.

That leaves me with a conundrum:

ATI/AMD: no banding with calibration, but can only get 85 Hz
NVIDIA: banding with calibration, but can get 100 Hz

I wish there was some way to get one or the other to do both.





Spoiler: How to OC with nVidia



DOWNLOAD 1) Download the latest version of Powerstrip (I'm...unsure how this actually helps with the refresh rate. I don't believe it does. But I like Powerstrip's override feature, and this will also allow you to easily remove that green tint off your monitor, if you haven't already done so. And always a handy app to have)

DOWNLOAD 2) Download This Bad Boy too.

dseo13b.zip 631k .zip file

DOWNLOAD 3) Download the Monitor driver next. Catleap_Q270_OC.zip 1k .zip file This driver should be good to use by anyone. It registers the monitor as having upto 123hz refresh rate. However, remember that while the driver lets the system think your monitor can run a higher refresh rate, it doesn't mean your card can handle it. So just because the option might be there, doesn't mean it's safe to do. Know your systems limitations and proceed at your own risk!

Steps to follow:

1) Install Powerstrip. Just because I said so. To remove the green tint, if you haven't already, and go to configure colour profiles:


Click the green button, and adjust the sliders to remove the tint. For my monitor, the settings below worked perfectly. Each monitor is going to be different though. So play around until it looks right. Or just use a proper calibration software:


Or you can skip that step alltogether.

2) Open up dseo13b.exe (inside dseo13b.zip, attached above) It sometimes opens up behind any existing open windows. So you won't see it until you individually minimize other stuff. Hit Next. Yes if you agree to the terms. Select "Enable Test Mode" and hit Next. Restart your computer. You'll notice in the bottom-right corner of your desktop it'll now say your Windows is in Test Mode. I should probably point out that this guide was made on Windows 7 and I have no idea about compatibility with other versions of Windows because...I'm not the manufacturer of the monitor and don't care to cross test.











3) Hit the Windows Key + R to bring up the the Run prompt. Type in devmgmt.msc and hit enter. Under Monitors, select your monitor (Dual DVI, or Plug And Play Monitor, or whatever it's called). Right click, and select "Update Driver Software:"



Select "Browse my computer for driver software," then "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer," followed by clicking "Have Disk..."


Now browse to the folder you saved the monitor driver in (driver was at the top of the post. make sure you unzip it first):


Once you've done that, it should now show the drivers it found in that folder. Select the Overclock.Net monitor from the list, obviously, in case you have multiple drivers that it's located and you should see:


Click Next, and once it's installed the driver, you must restart your computer.

4) Once you restart your computer, open up the Nvidia control panel, go to Change Resolution, click Customize, then Create Custom Resolution, as shown here:



Once you're there, you want to make either 1 or 2 profiles, depending on whether you're playing with a single card, which card you have, and whether you want to SLI. For many people, the 100hz will be all they can do. Meaning...all pre-gtx 680 cards may be limited to 100hz. All gtx 680 sli setups are limited to 100hz. If you're in that category, please ONLY do the 100hz one. Enter the details as below:



Now if you have a single gtx 680 card, or some other card that is known to allow a higher than 400 pixel clock, then you can set up 120hz in pretty much exactly the same way, just with the refresh rate changed from 100hz to 120hz:



Please make sure to enter the details on the bottom half of the screen in Manual mode as shown below, otherwise for 100hz SLI or non-gtx 680 single card setups it'll push your pixel clock above 400 and may cause a lot of problem or simply just not work. And for single gtx 680 owners...still better to run the pixel clock as low as possible. So do it.









5) To confirm that the system now reads your refresh rate capabilities properly, go to Powerstrip --> Display Profiles --> Configure, and click on "Hide modes not supported by this monitor." If done properly, the slider on the right of the screen should still slide on over to 100hz or 120hz, depending on what resolutions you set up in Nvidia's control panel. You can also confirm what actual refresh rate you have active now, by double clicking the camera icon next to the slider. If the slider is inactive for you, make sure to select " Standard Discrete Timing" from the drop down menu on that same page instead of "Windows Default." Here's a screenshot showing everything, and also my tested refresh rate at 120.003hz:



6) Enable Vsync and test out a game.





Spoiler: How to OC with AMD cards



How to run your monitor at a higher refresh rate, particularly if you have an AMD/ATI card. The program someone over at hardforum made is the easiest way to do it, though other more effective ways are being investigated. Again, thank you ToastyX.

Program: *http://www.toastyx.net/cru-preview.zip*
Release notes: *http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038342324&postcount=6*

See also: *http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/7947-force-dvi-hdmi-resolutions-refresh-rates.html*

*GUIDE TO HOW I HIT 101HZ ON A RADEON 6970. FROM HYPERMATRIX*

Ok folks. This is by no means scientific. Large parts of it have nothing to do with making 101hz work. In fact, it may be just 1 step required to do it. But this is what I did. And it works. I turned it off and back to normal mode, then back to 101hz several times and it works now. It just...works.

Here's how you do it: Powerstrip. Now...when I first got my monitor, Powerstrip did not allow a higher refresh rate to work. Maybe it's the new version that allows it to work. So all you may need to do, is download the new version of Powerstrip, and Voila. I'll get to that in a second. Here's a list of things I did:

1) Installed demo of latest power strip 2 weeks ago. Didn't work. Uninstalled it.
2) I then tried the Force DVI/HDMI Res/Refresh method using Phoenix and MonInfo (http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/7947-force-dvi-hdmi-resolutions-refresh-rates.html) This was a great non-success. Windows 7 didn't seem to accept the created inf as a valid driver for the monitor. So I gave up on that.
3) Did ToastyX's method of using CRU. Had a lot of difficulty but got it working. But ended up working. After exporting the settings, I'd have to unplug my monitor for a few seconds, plug it back in, and the new refresh rates would show up under windows screen resolution/monitor info change. Highest I got it working was with these settings:


Now...I don't know if any of what I did above contributed to somehow unlocking the 101hz potential or if you can just jump into Powerstrip and git 'er dun.

4) I set these settings in AMD's CCC:
- Running AMD Catalyst 12.2
- NO Overclocking of the video card (doesn't mean you can't do it...I only had success with no overclock) So leave "Enable Graphics OverDrive" unchecked for now.
- Set LCD Overdrive ON at 200% (doesn't affect the hz, but makes games/videos better imo....even though the monitor already has some overdrive mechanics in it...you can leave it off if you want)
- Set Enable GPU Scaling at "Use Centered Timings" or "Scale image to full panel size"
- Set "Reduce DVI Frequency on high-resolution displays" (while playing around...sometimes it would work with it off, but it would always work with it on.
- Set Color Temperature Control to "Use Extended Display Identification Data (EDID) as ON. This, if nothing else, automatically fixes that "green tint" you hear a lot of people tallking about.

5) I may or may not have installed an older version of PowerStrip 3.80.625 then imported the attached registry key below (that you should rename to .reg.....though I don't think that matters, tbh) into regedit regkey.txt 0k .txt file THIS IS NOT FOR PIRACY REASONS. THIS DOES NOT EVEN GIVE YOU A WORKING COPY OF POWERSTRIP. AND YOU HAVE TO RUN IT, THEN UNINSTALL IT AND REBOOT YOUR PC. This step likely does NOT EVEN MATTER in the process. But I'm listing all that I did to be safe. You can google search a copy of Powerstrip 3.80.625 on google. It's just a demo so it's not piracy.

6) After uninstalling and installing the latest version of Powerstrip, my screen gave me crazy scanlines. I opened up windows screen resolution changer, and set my refresh from to he 82hz it was set to, to a lower refresh rate. 75hz in my case. Everything looked clear. IT IS FROM THIS POINT FORWARD, ALONG WITH THE SETTINGS IN STEP 4, THAT I BELIEVE ACTUALLY CONTRIBUTED TO HITTING THIS REFRESH RATE. EVERYTHING ELSE IS PROBABLY STUPID. THE FOLLOWING SHOULD WORK FOR YOU: Now exit Powerstrip, then run it again as an Admin. Rightclick the Powerstrip icon in your system tray, go to Display Profiles, and Configure. In the Refresh Rate section, there's a lock symbol. Make sure the button is Pressed In. Then go to Advanced Timing Options. And this is what I have for my settings on that screen:



With the real-time adjustment option on you can fine tune everything. But all I did was enter in the 408 pixel click, hit the up arrow once or twice, clicked in another box, and it updated all the settings including refresh to the appropriate numbers. Once that worked, I hit OK and I was done. The next screen should just look like this: 

Keep in mind that Powerstrip now manages your resolution/refresh rate. So it will not show you the proper refresh rating in the windows resolution change screen. How can you know it's really running at 101hz? Well...windows feel smoother. You can also...run fraps on your desktop and depending on how much movement it is, it'll shoot the framerate up to 101fps (ie. while moving a window erratically across the screen) or running a game with Vsync on and seeing it hit 101fps.



*Input Lag/Video Playback*



Spoiler: Input Lag Issues/Video Playback Results



Click the following link for a discussion of lag and video playback - *CLICKY*



*Troubleshooting*



Spoiler: Monitor Won't Boot Up (Black Screen)? Check This Out . . .



*BEFORE POSTING YOUR ISSUES - BE SELF-SUFFICIENT AND TRY THESE THINGS OUT FIRST. THANKS!*

*Red light*, but nothing from the monitor? Have you turned it on (yes, someone has done this)? Turn it on. See an image? Great, you're done!

Solid *red light* can be several things. Try these out.

1. Power brick issue/cord issue. Use a volt meter to test that you are indeed getting 24v (or close) from the brick. If not, then it could be faulty. Check your cord is pushed all the way into the brick.

2. Loose wiring inside the unit itself. If it's a red light only deal, then your OSD wiring to the DVI board could be loose (or the wiring from the DVI board to the panel strip wiring.)

If you get flashing *green light* issues, it can be:

1. Your GPU is not supported;

2. Your drivers stink (do a clean install);

3. Your DVI cable stinks (the cable that comes with the monitor is hit or miss with whether it will work properly. One of mine worked while the other didn't.); * AND/OR*

4. Loose wiring inside the unit (DVI connection to Panel PCB connection.)

With these monitors you can have a combination of issues. So go from easiest to hardest (even with a *red light* issue) - Check that your card is supported, check brick voltage, try a better DVI cable, clean install of drivers, open her up and re-connect all wiring.

If none of these things solve your problem then feel free to post in the thread for additional help/ideas.

Anyone wanting help with monitor issues *must* report several things:

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?

4. Tried any of the other things listed above?

The more detail we have the better we can help troubleshoot the problem.





Spoiler: Monitor Buzzing? Try This . . . 



To clean up that buzz try covering the 220 diode in the pics below. Someone posted that by covering it with some epoxy he was able to eliminate the buzzing from his monitor. Give it shot.

FROM CHARLESK:

I don't know if the fact that there is no hole in the cover has an influence on the buzz, maybe the cover is touching one of the choke and thus propagate and amplify the sound.

Anyway, putting epoxy glue on chokes (and gluing them to the pcb) prevent them from vibrating which nullify the source of the sound, propagation or not

the solid states choke you usually see on motherboard/video card (the cubic components) are chokes coated in epoxy to prevent them from vibrating (buzz)
(but well, when a high load pass through the power circuit, it still makes them buzz a little)

The action of gluing them has the same purpose









Interesting little difference between the two setups I never noticed before. The covers for the panel PCBs are different. Not a big deal, but interesting all the same.

*THIS IS THE COVER FROM MY OC MONITOR COVERING THE NON-OC BOARD. SEE HOW THE CUT OUT MATCHES THE PCB PERFECTLY?*



*HERE IT IS OVER THE OC PCB - AS IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY - NOT A GREAT FIT*



*THIS IS THE COVER FOR A NON-OC BOARD - NO CUT OUT*



*IF YOU LOOK AT THE TWO PCBS YOU CAN SEE THE OC PCB HAS A COVER OVER ONE PIECE WHERE THE NON-OC BOARD DOES NOT. *



Try epoxy around the two 220 chokes - they are on the right-hand side of the board (only one in the picture above is in the red box.)



*OC vs. Non-OC Monitors*



Spoiler: OC vs. Non-OC Monitor Internals



*OC Monitor Internals*

DVI PCB W/SPEAKER

MODEL #: HY-2560M_DA_Q1.REV.4

CENTER PANEL PCB (CONNECTS TO DVI PCB)

MODEL # LM270WQ1-SLA1

P/N: 6870C-0340A_REV0.2

DESIGNED: 2010.04.06

RIGHT TOP PANEL PCB

MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(R)

P/N: 6870S-0922A EVT2 REV0.4

DESIGNED: 2009/05/06

LEFT TOP PANEL PCB

MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(L)

P/N: 6870S-0921A EVT2 REV0.4

DESIGNED: 2009/05/06



*Non-OC Monitor Internals*

DVI PCB W/O SPEAKER
MODEL #: HY-2560M_DP REV_02

CENTER PANEL PCB (CONNECTS TO DVI PCB)
MODEL #: LM270WQ1-SDA2
P/N: 6870C-0301A_EVT2_Rev1.0
DESIGNED: 2009.05.14

SEE THIS POST FOR PICTURE OF CENTER PANEL PCB - *CLICKY*

RIGHT TOP PANEL PCB
MODEL #: LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(R)
P/N: 6870S-0922A EVT2 REV0.4
DESIGNED: 2009/05/06

LEFT TOP PANEL PCB
MODEL #: LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(L)
P/N: 6870S-0921A EVT2 REV0.4
DESIGNED: 2009/05/06

HERE IS A SIMPLE BREAKDOWN OF THE DIFFERENCE IN PICTURES (WE ALL LOVE PICTURES - SORRY NO POP-UP BOOK VERSION)







Spoiler: Pictures of OC Monitor Internals



Here goes all the pics from an OC monitor.



*RED for the PCB to the panel, BLUE speakers, YELLOW to brightness/volume/power, PURPLE to panel. THIS IS THE DVI TO PANEL PCB.*



*UP CLOSE OF SN ON DVI PCB*



*FULL OF DVI PCB - CABLES WOULD NOT COME OUT EASY AND I DIDN'T WANT TO DAMAGE THEM*



*BACK OF DVI PCB*



*UP CLOSE OF DVI PCB TO PANEL PCB CONNECTORS - THESE ARE NOT THE SAME AS ON A NON-OC MONITOR*



*RIGHT SIDE/TOP OF PANEL PCB*



*CENTER PANEL PCB - THIS IS WHERE THE PCB DVI CONNECTORS PLUG INTO (UP CLOSE SHOT BELOW)*



*UP CLOSE OF CONNECTION TO TOP PANEL PCBS*



*UP CLOSE OF CHIP*



*HERE'S THE MAIN DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO PANELS - THESE ARE THE CONNECTORS THAT LEAD TO THE DVI PCB*



*LEFT SIDE/TOP PCB ON PANEL*



*SN on the other PCB is 68705-0922A rather than 68705-0921A and is "SOURCE PCB (R)" instead of "SOURCE PCB (L)" - this is the left side of the monitor when it is flipped and you are facing it.*


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

To be added to the club, please post your comments/pictures in this thread *FIRST*.

You will need to *RIGHT CLICK* and *COPY* the link address of your post:


*^^RIGHT CLICK YOUR POST NUMBER^^*

Then *PASTE* the link in the "Comments & Experience" and "Pictures of your new monitor" sections of the form.

Your pasted link will look something like this: "http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/0_100#post_16652356"

Here is the link to the Club *FORM.* Please do not forget to link your post(s).

*A big THANK YOU to munaim1 for the spreadsheet and form!*


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AldAG0FCQxM-dGpSMEg0bDJnODRfbVBFMXdpdU5HcVE&output=html&widget=true

*If you have any questions about the Club, Form, or Spreadsheet please shoot Scribby a PM. Thanks! *


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

*Overclock Survey Form - All Owners Please Complete This Form - Thank You*

Post your comments/pictures in this thread *FIRST*.

You will need to *RIGHT CLICK* and *COPY* the link address of your post:


*^^RIGHT CLICK YOUR POST NUMBER^^*

Then *PASTE* the link in the "Pictures of Internals" section of the form.

Your pasted link will look something like this: "http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/0_100#post_16652356"

Here is the link to the OC *FORM.* Please do not forget to link your post(s).

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0AquOPAi1GHRHdFpoZm1ueEFwSGs4LXB4MkZzRFJ3QVE&output=html


----------



## KuuFA

Got mine!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16704944


----------



## dakU

In! ordered mine two days ago.

Will post pics when it arrives.


----------



## jagz

I'm considering ordering one. Is it one of those things... if you aren't in 2560x1440 w an IPS you're missing out?


----------



## munaim1

Ready when you are scribby


----------



## StormX2

hmmm - dont know what this is lol

awesome, if you google :"Yamakasi Catleap"

this post is #1


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> hmmm - dont know what this is lol
> 
> awesome, if you google :"Yamakasi Catleap"
> 
> this post is #1


----------



## StormX2

what makes these so special? 6ms response time sounds gross lol


----------



## stealthybox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *StormX2*
> 
> what makes these so special? 6ms response time sounds gross lol


it's an import 1440p IPS monitor that is of generally good panel quality on top of being ridiculously inexpensive.

edit: also, 6ms isn't bad at all for an IPS panel.
additionally, many remark that most will not be able to differentiate between a 5ms response time and 2ms one.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Ready when you are scribby


I want to say a *HUGE* thank you to *munaim1* who did all the prep/programming/etc for the club form and spreadsheet. HE ROCKS!


----------



## youra6

Got some pics on my phone. Will be happy to join this.


----------



## Somenamehere

Ill post pics when I get mine. Ordered sunday.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I want to say a *HUGE* thank you to *munaim1* who did all the prep/programming/etc for the club form and spreadsheet. HE ROCKS!


You're most welcome bud, glad to be of assistance









hmmm Minor change from "Out of this world" to "Absolutely Amazing!!"


----------



## computerdeth

Placed an order for a Catleap. Will post back once It gets here.


----------



## DarkrReign2049

I placed my order on Monday and have not received a tracking number or anything yet. How long has it taken for everyone else to get their info?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkrReign2049*
> 
> I placed my order on Monday and have not received a tracking number or anything yet. How long has it taken for everyone else to get their info?


It depends on the seller - Dreamseller has updated my order when he actually ships. I ordered my second monitor Monday and received tracking today.


----------



## Geglamash

Awesome. Form filled out! Count me in captain.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Awesome. Form filled out! Count me in captain.


I'm surprised you don't have thumbtacks in your map to track your bounties!!!


----------



## munaim1

Wow good job Scribby, thread is looking great!!!


----------



## tinklepee

My catleap is over the Pacific and about an hour and a half from Anchorage, Alaska. Too bad I'm on the eastern coast of the US!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> Wow good job Scribby, thread is looking great!!!


 Thanks man!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> 
> My catleap is over the Pacific and about an hour and a half from Anchorage, Alaska. Too bad I'm on the eastern coast of the US!


Well, it's on it's way. Living on the "Left" coast has its advantages (like when you're trying to get a monitor from Korea!)


----------



## KuuFA

You should put places where people can buy the Dual DVI-D cables.

Monoprice:
6ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2

6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2

I have the 24 awg when my cat leap gets here ill see if it works perfect with it.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> You should put places where people can buy the Dual DVI-D cables.
> Monoprice:
> 6ft 28AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2
> 6ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable - Black
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2
> I have the 24 awg when my cat leap gets here ill see if it works perfect with it.


The monitor comes with one, but those work! I made the mistake of simply using an old cable when I moved my old LCD out of the way rather than bothering to plug in the cable that came in the box!


----------



## necriss

Here are the Nvidia Control Panel timings for 100hz Catleap. Automatic timings allow a maximum of 97hz, for 100 the following manual timings are required.



















You may experience some micro scanlines faintly visible running on 100hz as described by ToastyX
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I know the lines you're talking about. The lines are actually still there at 60 Hz, just not as strong. I made a test image a while back:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Both halves are supposed to have faint horizontal lines, but on a monitor that has the lines, the lines on the monitor cancels out the lines in one half of the image and makes them stronger in the other half.
> I wouldn't worry about them. I've seen those lines on most H-IPS panels, but hardly anyone seems to notice them.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

^ Thanks necriss! I will include your post once I finalize the step-by-step for nVidia users (since your screen shots go straight to the end and some people don't know how to get that far!)


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Dont forget the step by step for AMD users! It will be helpful for us noobs who have no experience in overclocking refresh rates









Edit: Saw you added Toasty's program


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> Dont forget the step by step for AMD users! It will be helpful for us noobs who have no experience in overclocking refresh rates
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Saw you added Toasty's program


Apparently this isn't easy to do with AMD cards. I'm green so I will not be able to do more than what other's post up for you red folks! I googled it, and man, that's not easy. +1 for nVidia in my book! No flames please AMD are great cards too, just suck when you want to create a custom resolution.


----------



## alricking

I'm confuse, right now my Catleap running at 97hz, so if I overclock it further to 100hz, its going create some sort of line??


----------



## Striknine

I just pulled the trigger on mine! I bought it from "dream-seller" for 399 free shipping. I am excited to say the least I'll post picks when it gets here.

***** (edit) ***** I placed my order on March 7 and the monitor arrived alive on March 15. The monitor has no dead pixels and is in perfect condition. I am happy with this purchase. It is a Model C so I doubt it will over clock. I don't care I didn't buy it to run at 100hz anyhow.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> I'm confuse, right now my Catleap running at 97hz, so if I overclock it further to 100hz, its going create some sort of line??


97 is fine - those extra 3hz won't make a difference! I actually tested mine today on FPS gaming and it was fine at 75 for me. Some visual issues, but if it were at 80 I wouldn't notice a thing. It's all a matter of personal preference on the refresh rate (and what you can get yourself used to.) Somewhere in the original monitor thread someone said they ran theirs at 60 and didn't notice a difference.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> I'm confuse, right now my Catleap running at 97hz, so if I overclock it further to 100hz, its going create some sort of line??


The lines are already visible at 60hz, they become more noticeable as the hz increases.

60 vs 100hz makes a world of difference in games. It's hard going back to 60 after trying 100.


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Well, it's on it's way. Living on the "Left" coast has its advantages (like when you're trying to get a monitor from Korea!)


Unless you happened to order on a Korean holiday (Ordered March 1st, reported shipped March 1st) and your tracking number doesn't show ANYthing and hasn't for 5 days and you're getting anxious and are starting to think about engaging the ebay buyer protection...... Will wait one more day, send one more note to dreamseller if on the 8th my tracking number STILL shows no change, and then see what happens.

GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR






























BB


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> Unless you happened to order on a Korean holiday (Ordered March 1st, reported shipped March 1st) and your tracking number doesn't show ANYthing and hasn't for 5 days and you're getting anxious and are starting to think about engaging the ebay buyer protection...... Will wait one more day, send one more note to dreamseller if on the 8th my tracking number STILL shows no change, and then see what happens.
> GRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BB


Are you using the link above for tracking? Or are you clicking the link in eBay? Is yours an EGXXXXXXXXX tracking number? My numbers have been EGXXXXXXXXXKR numbers. That is EG with 9 numbers then KR on the end.

I don't understand all the issues with tracking as I was able to track both as soon as dreamseller posted them to the item. I just checked my eBay account and if I click the item I do get a dumb-downed version of tracking. I prefer the one I get from the tracking link in the fourth post (all the details post.)


----------



## tflan

Did anybody buy 2 or more GLASS catleaps q270's.

When they are set next to each other at an angle, does their light cast GLARE onto one anothers glass screens?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tflan*
> 
> Did anybody buy 2 or more GLASS catleaps q270's.
> When they are set next to each other at an angle, does their light cast GLARE onto one anothers glass screens?


I won't have two tempered glass versions, but my guess is that you would get some screen reflection if one monitor is showing something darker than the other. In addition, the bezel of these monitors is shiny and does reflect everything around it. I definitely notice the bezel reflection, but I am hoping will just get used to it and not notice it over time.


----------



## tinklepee

I have a quick question...

I'm using an 25" ASUS TN monitor right now and it's running at 60hz. I don't notice any negative effects while gaming.
Will running the Catleap at 60hz be the same as the ASUS but with a better picture?


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Are you using the link above for tracking? Or are you clicking the link in eBay? Is yours an EGXXXXXXXXX tracking number? My numbers have been EGXXXXXXXXXKR numbers. That is EG with 9 numbers then KR on the end.


yes, its an EG*KR number. I've used the Ebay link, the site above and the itemtracker.ru link as well. None show anything.
Quote:


> I don't understand all the issues with tracking as I was able to track both as soon as dreamseller posted them to the item. I just checked my eBay account and if I click the item I do get a dumb-downed version of tracking. I prefer the one I get from the tracking link in the fourth post (all the details post.)


As I noted, it APPEARS to be that those of us who ordered over the Korean holiday weekend got screwed.

BB


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> 
> I have a quick question...
> I'm using an 25" ASUS TN monitor right now and it's running at 60hz. I don't notice any negative effects while gaming.
> Will running the Catleap at 60hz be the same as the ASUS but with a better picture?


I really cannot say since it has some to do with your GPU as well. The monitor sure is pretty!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> yes, its an EG*KR number. I've used the Ebay link, the site above and the itemtracker.ru link as well. None show anything.
> As I noted, it APPEARS to be that those of us who ordered over the Korean holiday weekend got screwed.
> BB


Man, sorry to hear that. I purchased on February 29, the day before dreamseller took the day off (I think it was March 1), and still received mine. Not sure why you are having issues. Again, sorry to hear about your problems.


----------



## sbuck333

I have read about several cases of the stand/monitor tilting to the right, are most Catleaps straight or do most people have a tilt? i was just wondering because personally a wall mount or stand would not be an (easy) option.. I am torn between the two different brands plus the possibility of Crossover later this week :/


----------



## tflan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> I have read about several cases of the stand/monitor tilting to the right, are most Catleaps straight or do most people have a tilt? i was just wondering because personally a wall mount or stand would not be an (easy) option.. I am torn between the two different brands plus the possibility of Crossover later this week :/


what is a crossover?


----------



## omekone

Bought one from Dream-Seller on the 4th, says it shipped but no tracking number yet.

Can not wait! I just sent back a 27" asus to newegg due to really bad flicker... Was freaking out looking for a quality monitor to buy and this thread popped up.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Sooo is there a non multi-input version of the catleap available with a working OSD? and anyone know if there is going to be? I'd really like one. I would have been fine with the multi-input one as I hear they have a fully functional OSD, but then of course they have to have higher input lag.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Sooo is there a non multi-input version of the catleap available with a working OSD? and anyone know if there is going to be? I'd really like one. I would have been fine with the multi-input one as I hear they have a fully functional OSD, but then of course they have to have higher input lag.


The Q270s are all stripped down versions of higher priced monitors and none have an OSD (other than the multi-input Q270 of course). I doubt you will see Q270s with standard OSDs since Yamakasi has two other lines with OSDs (w and w/o glass).

With the ability to create custom resolutions and performing the color tricks listed in this thread I really haven't missed not having an OSD to be honest. Is it worth $40 for an OSD if you don't want the extra inputs (or don't need them?)

You could ask one of the sellers if they will stock the Flawless Precision 2701 (w or w/o glass) as they have OSDs. The Precision 2702s also come with OSDs.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> 
> I have read about several cases of the stand/monitor tilting to the right, are most Catleaps straight or do most people have a tilt? i was just wondering because personally a wall mount or stand would not be an (easy) option.. I am torn between the two different brands plus the possibility of Crossover later this week :/


Mine had the tilt mentioned and the stand, while it appeared online to be more robust than the Achieva, was not so great (although the Achieva stand is crap as well). However, the stand wasn't horrible just not as sturdy as I am used to coming from having all my monitors mounted on a multi-monitor stand.

The Crossovers look promising, but it will all depend on the model that the sellers offer. I think we will see Crossovers that are exactly like the Catleap and Achieva. The Crossovers with the aluminum trim, solid mounted stand, and white backs appear to be the high-end versions, but of course I could be totally wrong!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tflan*
> 
> what is a crossover?


Another model that uses the same panel, just with a different bezel. Some of the Crossover models have black front bezels with white backs and what appear to be more robust stands (better mounts/more flexibility in the stand - tilt, swivel, raise/lower). We will see what gets offered.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

For those that are interested, here is the site for the Crossover monitors - *CLICKY*.

Like I said above, I have no idea which of these will be up for sale.

EDIT: Actually looking at the site more closely I wouldn't be surprised if models 27QLED and 27QLED-P are the ones offered for sale. They seem to match Achieva and Catleap the closest. These look good especially if you're into that Apple white kind of look (on the back of a monitor that no one will see, but hey no one said style made any sense.)


----------



## Demented

I'll join if/when my monitor arrives (not found using that link for tracking), and if/when I decide if I'm keeping it. I'm in no rush, but I'd like to have an idea when it's coming, so I'll have to contact dream-seller if I don't see anything later today.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> You could ask one of the sellers if they will stock the Flawless Precision 2701 (w or w/o glass) as they have OSDs. The Precision 2702s also come with OSDs.


Hey thanks. I think i'm just gonna say nuts to it and get a Catleap single input without the OSD. Couple quick questions though. I've been following these since day one and 1500 + posts later im getting a little confused. Is there a tempered glass Catleap or no?

And also the prescision 2701 and 2702, what monitors are they? haven't heard of them. Link me up if you got one to some info on them. Thanks!


----------



## Mr Ripper

I've ordered a plain Catleap from green-sum. I'm in the UK so I'll have to see how it goes. Will probably have to pay ~25% extra on duties but still a lot cheaper than anything else available, including the Hazro monitors with the same panel sold here in the UK.

The vesa mounting holes on the back, (once you remove the silver plastic) what spacing are these? 75 or 100mm?

Cheers

Edit: I see from the handy FAQ here that it say 3" so 75mm


----------



## kaizarsoze

This is crazy. I've been looking for a budget 27" monitor this week and was going to finally pull the trigger on an Asus VE278Q (the one with pervasive flicker issues and costs ~$280) but then the main Shimian/Yamakasi thread showed up. Couldn't have been better timing since I wasn't all that excited about the Asus to begin with. At first I thought at $400+ it was too risky, but I'm now considering it, specifically the Yamakasi Catleap with the multiple inputs (I just need it to have HDMI). I'm primarily going to use it for development and some multimedia (minus the gaming), so I'm not overly concerned about the input lag / response times, although picture quality is very important and you can't get any better than an IPS. Having said that, I have a couple of questions:

1. My main rig finally gave up (whole another story), and because of budget constraints it'll be a while before I get to upgrading it. So I'm currently on my laptop with the default/built-in Intel HD Graphics 3000* (no discrete graphics card) with one HDMI and one VGA port. This is what I'm planning on hooking up the Catleap to. Would this even work if I plug it into the HDMI port? (The Intel graphics driver has a built in scaler, although I'm assuming the multi-input monitor probably comes with it)

2. I also wanted to confirm if the multi-input Catleap (i.e. w/HDMI, DVI-D, VGA, etc) comes with an OSD?


----------



## alricking

Question concerning pushing monitor to 100hz, I notice manual timing, a decrease of vertical pixel from 1508 to 1478 to achieve 100hz. Is the lose of 30 vertical pixel noticeable? Is it worthwhile to lose 30 pixel vertical for 3hz difference?

Any comment appericated. Thanks


----------



## alricking

Another question.. can we get posting of color adjustment for Catleap. I remember Toasty posted something about his color adjustment and software he use to make Catleap look better.


----------



## Spykerv

Awww man... Such a nice monitor. Only reason I don't buy is:

1. gotta spend that money on Ivy and a new DAC
2. No stand adjustments to speak of (like the professional series of dell, ie Vertical rotate)
3. No warranty

But such a sick monitor

Between the refurb fw900s and this, its a tough decision on what one can get for a monitor.


----------



## BBGunWB

FINALLY...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMSTrack*
> Date Status Post office/Airport Details
> 21:01 08-Mar-2012 Posting/Collection BUSANJIN Posting office zip code : 614013
> 
> Destination country : U.S.A


Quite upset I've had to wait this long, and will have to wait another several days, but at least its showing up now.

BB


----------



## Caustin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaizarsoze*
> 
> This is crazy. I've been looking for a budget 27" monitor this week and was going to finally pull the trigger on an Asus VE278Q (the one with pervasive flicker issues and costs ~$280) but then the main Shimian/Yamakasi thread showed up. Couldn't have been better timing since I wasn't all that excited about the Asus to begin with. At first I thought at $400+ it was too risky, but I'm now considering it, specifically the Yamakasi Catleap with the multiple inputs (I just need it to have HDMI). I'm primarily going to use it for development and some multimedia (minus the gaming), so I'm not overly concerned about the input lag / response times, although picture quality is very important and you can't get any better than an IPS. Having said that, I have a couple of questions:
> 1. My main rig finally gave up (whole another story), and because of budget constraints it'll be a while before I get to upgrading it. So I'm currently on my laptop with the default/built-in Intel HD Graphics 3000* (no discrete graphics card) with one HDMI and one VGA port. This is what I'm planning on hooking up the Catleap to. Would this even work if I plug it into the HDMI port? (The Intel graphics driver has a built in scaler, although I'm assuming the multi-input monitor probably comes with it)
> *2. I also wanted to confirm if the multi-input Catleap (i.e. w/HDMI, DVI-D, VGA, etc) comes with an OSD?
> *


As far as I know, it does come with a functioning OSD. However, I don't think anyone has bought the multiple input Catleap yet to confirm.


----------



## AMGRoadster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaizarsoze*
> 
> This is crazy. I've been looking for a budget 27" monitor this week and was going to finally pull the trigger on an Asus VE278Q (the one with pervasive flicker issues and costs ~$280) but then the main Shimian/Yamakasi thread showed up. Couldn't have been better timing since I wasn't all that excited about the Asus to begin with. At first I thought at $400+ it was too risky, but I'm now considering it, specifically the Yamakasi Catleap with the multiple inputs (I just need it to have HDMI). I'm primarily going to use it for development and some multimedia (minus the gaming), so I'm not overly concerned about the input lag / response times, although picture quality is very important and you can't get any better than an IPS. Having said that, I have a couple of questions:
> 1. My main rig finally gave up (whole another story), and because of budget constraints it'll be a while before I get to upgrading it. So I'm currently on my laptop with the default/built-in Intel HD Graphics 3000* (no discrete graphics card) with one HDMI and one VGA port. This is what I'm planning on hooking up the Catleap to. Would this even work if I plug it into the HDMI port? (The Intel graphics driver has a built in scaler, although I'm assuming the multi-input monitor probably comes with it)
> 2. I also wanted to confirm if the multi-input Catleap (i.e. w/HDMI, DVI-D, VGA, etc) comes with an OSD?


I do not believe that HDMI will support 2560x1440. Please someone correct me if I am wrong.

I ordered my monitor on Saturday 3/4 from Green-Sum and still do not have a tracking number nor is it showing shipped. I am hoping it shows up by mid next week but if it really has not shipped that probably will not happen.


----------



## eduardmc

Well, I think i made a mistake ordering without tempered. I like the capleap but love the tempered look and they didn't have any at that time. I think ii'll order a second capleap with tempered but then i have to deal with selling the first one which still has not arrive.


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> Well, I think i made a mistake ordering without tempered. I like the capleap but love the tempered look and they didn't have any at that time. I think ii'll order a second capleap with tempered but then i have to deal with selling the first one which still has not arrive.


From the other thread.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomy*
> 
> For those debating on whether or not to get the tempered glass-- don't. It's a bloody stupid feature. It's a crime, honestly-- everyone wants to get the apple minimalistic look but very few manufacturers do it right. Usually what ends up happening is you ruin the monitors. I mean think about it, you're basically putting something between yourself and the display. That's a crime. Sometimes you end up with reflections appearing on both the glass and the panel and it's infuriating.
> Had this problem on my DELL Studio XPS 16. Drove me batty. Though I'll admit, it may be possible to keep it under control on a monitor, with which you can guarantee a glare free environment.


Never personally had a tempered glass monitor so I dont know how true the above statement is.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

I just ordered the YAMAKASI CATLEAP - NO speakers YES tempered glass.
I have an Asus VE278Q and will try to do comparison shots when the catleap gets here.

After looking at my Asus for a few months I am getting tired of the limited brightness and even with everything turned up, the image just looks blown up and dull to me. The reasons I'm making the convert is because of the extra brightness, resolution, and colors AND response time.

The response time is about the same with both monitors but with the VE278Q (supposed to be 2ms? yeah right...) I can definitely tell there's a noticeable mouse lag that surfaced when I upgraded from my old HP w2408h (24'' with 5ms)

Do monitor manufacturers lie about response time? I'm almost certain that my Asus 27'' sucked more than my HP 24''...


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> From the other thread.
> Never personally had a tempered glass monitor so I dont know how true the above statement is.










Reading this now made me change my mind again. Keeping the monitor when it comes. Hell with tempered









I was this close (maybe a few second) before clicking "buy it now" until i read your post and actually make since what i just read from you.


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Question concerning pushing monitor to 100hz, I notice manual timing, a decrease of vertical pixel from 1508 to 1478 to achieve 100hz. Is the lose of 30 vertical pixel noticeable? Is it worthwhile to lose 30 pixel vertical for 3hz difference?
> Any comment appericated. Thanks


AFAIK, you don't lose anything, that's just the timings, not the actual number of vertical pixels. It's also waaaaay above 1440 (the actual monitor vertical res) in case you hadn't noticed









The 3hz can be worth it you want to play a game at 100 or 50fps or watch a video at 100 or 50fps to achieve perfect sync and 0 dropped/repeated frames. It's also good for people like me who love round numbers


----------



## minnus

Has anyone else ordered from red-cap? I am still waiting for shipping info


----------



## alricking

Quote:
Originally Posted by alricking

Question concerning pushing monitor to 100hz, I notice manual timing, a decrease of vertical pixel from 1508 to 1478 to achieve 100hz. Is the lose of 30 vertical pixel noticeable? Is it worthwhile to lose 30 pixel vertical for 3hz difference?
Any comment appericated. Thanks

AFAIK, you don't lose anything, that's just the timings, not the actual number of vertical pixels. It's also waaaaay above 1440 (the actual monitor vertical res) in case you hadn't noticed

The 3hz can be worth it you want to play a game at 100 or 50fps or watch a video at 100 or 50fps to achieve perfect sync and 0 dropped/repeated frames. It's also good for people like me who love round numbers

I'm already running it at 97hz, will I notice difference 3hz?







..wonder if its safe to push the monitor to 100hz as its already being push to 97hz


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Quote:
> Originally Posted by alricking
> Question concerning pushing monitor to 100hz, I notice manual timing, a decrease of vertical pixel from 1508 to 1478 to achieve 100hz. Is the lose of 30 vertical pixel noticeable? Is it worthwhile to lose 30 pixel vertical for 3hz difference?
> Any comment appericated. Thanks
> AFAIK, you don't lose anything, that's just the timings, not the actual number of vertical pixels. It's also waaaaay above 1440 (the actual monitor vertical res) in case you hadn't noticed
> The 3hz can be worth it you want to play a game at 100 or 50fps or watch a video at 100 or 50fps to achieve perfect sync and 0 dropped/repeated frames. It's also good for people like me who love round numbers
> I'm already running it at 97hz, will I notice difference 3hz?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..wonder if its safe to push the monitor to 100hz as its already being push to 97hz


Nope 3 hz does not make a diffferents. Gaming vsync cap will be 97fps instead of 100fps. honestly after owning a 120hz i cannot really stay in 60hz anymore, everything is so choppy. It was almost unoticable going from 120hz down to 100hz but going from 100hz to 60hz was the big perfomance drop.


----------



## alricking

I got Catleap w/ speaker from Dream-seller...this tempered glass version people been talking about.. Is it any difference really from the non-tempered glass? Picture look better???

If i recall someone mention that tempered vs non-tempered has no advantages in term of quality of images//graphic ... beside just the better protection from damage.

Is that correct?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Hey thanks. I think i'm just gonna say nuts to it and get a Catleap single input without the OSD. Couple quick questions though. I've been following these since day one and 1500 + posts later im getting a little confused. Is there a tempered glass Catleap or no?
> And also the prescision 2701 and 2702, what monitors are they? haven't heard of them. Link me up if you got one to some info on them. Thanks!


See post #4 for the different Catleap Q270s available. Also see the Yamakasi link above on the other monitors they produce. I am assuming the 2701s and 2702s are the highest end monitors they make.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaizarsoze*
> 
> This is crazy. I've been looking for a budget 27" monitor this week and was going to finally pull the trigger on an Asus VE278Q (the one with pervasive flicker issues and costs ~$280) but then the main Shimian/Yamakasi thread showed up. Couldn't have been better timing since I wasn't all that excited about the Asus to begin with. At first I thought at $400+ it was too risky, but I'm now considering it, specifically the Yamakasi Catleap with the multiple inputs (I just need it to have HDMI). I'm primarily going to use it for development and some multimedia (minus the gaming), so I'm not overly concerned about the input lag / response times, although picture quality is very important and you can't get any better than an IPS. Having said that, I have a couple of questions:
> 1. My main rig finally gave up (whole another story), and because of budget constraints it'll be a while before I get to upgrading it. So I'm currently on my laptop with the default/built-in Intel HD Graphics 3000* (no discrete graphics card) with one HDMI and one VGA port. This is what I'm planning on hooking up the Catleap to. Would this even work if I plug it into the HDMI port? (The Intel graphics driver has a built in scaler, although I'm assuming the multi-input monitor probably comes with it)
> 2. I also wanted to confirm if the multi-input Catleap (i.e. w/HDMI, DVI-D, VGA, etc) comes with an OSD?


1. Not sure no one has received a multi yet to test it out.

2. Yes it does - you can click the link in the monitor section above to the manufacturers site - towards the bottom (through all the Korean) you see a big OSD in English.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Question concerning pushing monitor to 100hz, I notice manual timing, a decrease of vertical pixel from 1508 to 1478 to achieve 100hz. Is the lose of 30 vertical pixel noticeable? Is it worthwhile to lose 30 pixel vertical for 3hz difference?
> Any comment appericated. Thanks


I am running mine at 85 atm and don't notice the difference to be honest. All personal preference. I have 120s at home, my Alienware 3Ds in my Tiamat sig, and when I get on this I don't see any change. Could just be me who knows.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Another question.. can we get posting of color adjustment for Catleap. I remember Toasty posted something about his color adjustment and software he use to make Catleap look better.


Those are posted in the fourth post.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> I just ordered the YAMAKASI CATLEAP - NO speakers YES tempered glass.
> I have an Asus VE278Q and will try to do comparison shots when the catleap gets here.
> After looking at my Asus for a few months I am getting tired of the limited brightness and even with everything turned up, the image just looks blown up and dull to me. The reasons I'm making the convert is because of the extra brightness, resolution, and colors AND response time.
> The response time is about the same with both monitors but with the VE278Q (supposed to be 2ms? yeah right...) I can definitely tell there's a noticeable mouse lag that surfaced when I upgraded from my old HP w2408h (24'' with 5ms)
> Do monitor manufacturers lie about response time? I'm almost certain that my Asus 27'' sucked more than my HP 24''...


Yes, all manufacturer's lie about response time - it is a LOT worse than you think on ALL monitors. I am currently looking for the link to a website that does independent testing of all the manufacturer's lies about monitors. It is a fascinating read to see independent tests on these things and to read how it is physically impossible to get some of the stats manufacturers claim their monitors can do.


----------



## alricking

ScribbyDaGreat , you said color adjustment of Catleap is posted in the 4th post..don't see anything in the 4th post of color adjustment..please confirm. Thanks


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> I got Catleap w/ speaker from Dream-seller...this tempered glass version people been talking about.. Is it any difference really from the non-tempered glass? Picture look better???
> If i recall someone mention that tempered vs non-tempered has no advantages in term of quality of images//graphic ... beside just the better protection from damage.
> Is that correct?


This is a personal preference question really. There are no advantages/disadvantages to having tempered vs. non-tempered glass on a monitor. It is purely ascetics and protection I suppose (if you really need it). Be aware that all of these monitors, Achieva, Catleap, Crossover, with tempered glass are not going to be perfect as one manufacturer has stated that these lower end (all of these are the low end 27s they produce) with glass head to PC dens and get abused. That is why we are seeing many glass monitors come in with some sort of dust/hair/specs behind the glass (yes, someone had an eyelash on his screen.) Not all have issues, but many do.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat , you said color adjustment of Catleap is posted in the 4th post..don't see anything in the 4th post of color adjustment..please confirm. Thanks


Umm, "Color Adjustments" as a spoiler? You don't see that? Just click it and it will expand out (at least it SHOULD!) Let me know if it isn't working for some reason.


----------



## alricking

Found it, thanks for your quick response. You been awesome. So I just download Toasty zip files, and which 3 files do I upload?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Found it, thanks for your quick response. You been awesome. So I just download Toasty zip files, and which 3 files do I upload?


I need to re-order that post now that I re-read it. For now it appears a little backwards - sorry about that! Towards the bottom you want to save the .icm files somewhere on your computer. These are the ones you will add to your color settings during the instructions in the post.

Now not to confuse you here, but here goes! You could also go the LUT loader approach you see towards the top and use the Catleap zip file for the profiles. When I did that I got noticeable banding on the test image, but I have nVIdia cards. I would shoot for the easier install approach first and see your results (once you apply the profiles you notice a change immediately.) Don't forget to set your brightness after each change.

After dinking with all of these I am using the d65 profile. Again, a lot of this stuff is so subjective to what you prefer in coloring, brightness, saturation, etc. So if catleap native works for you, awesome, use it.


----------



## Gloomy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> This is a personal preference question really. There are no advantages/disadvantages to having tempered vs. non-tempered glass on a monitor. It is purely ascetics and protection I suppose (if you really need it). Be aware that all of these monitors, Achieva, Catleap, Crossover, with tempered glass are not going to be perfect as one manufacturer has stated that these lower end (all of these are the low end 27s they produce) with glass head to PC dens and get abused. That is why we are seeing many glass monitors come in with some sort of dust/hair/specs behind the glass (yes, someone had an eyelash on his screen.) Not all have issues, but many do.


Of course there is a difference. There is always a degradation in picture quality when you put anything extra in front of a panel. The only question is whether or not the manufacturer took care to minimize the negative effects-- judging from photos, they have not (dust, distance of glass facade from panel, etc).

Worst case scenario the monitor will be useless when viewed from the side due to double reflections on the glass and panel coating. There's no evidence this is the case but I wouldn't rule it out.


----------



## youra6

I wouldn't advise raising the refresh rates too high. We don't know if doing so can shorten it's life-span. Also, no warranty makes it riskier to do so.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomy*
> 
> Of course there is a difference. There is always a degradation in picture quality when you put anything extra in front of a panel. The only question is whether or not the manufacturer took care to minimize the negative effects-- judging from photos, they have not (dust, distance of glass facade from panel, etc).
> Worst case scenario the monitor will be useless when viewed from the side due to double reflections on the glass and panel coating. There's no evidence this is the case but I wouldn't rule it out.


I don't know about that. If you don't have a non-tempered one to compare to you really don't know the difference do you? My wife has a tempered glass monitor and I don't get ghosting or double reflections. I think it looks great, but, again, that's just me (and she loves it since it's "pretty" - you know happy wife, happy life and all.) The guys that received the glass versions in the original thread haven't been complaining about issues other than shmegma behind it (which is why I didn't go that route.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youra6*
> 
> I wouldn't advise raising the refresh rates too high. We don't know if doing so can shorten it's life-span. Also, no warranty makes it riskier to do so.


I completely agree although I did get the squaretrade warranty. Hopefully I won't end up as the guinea pig with whether they will actually honor the warranty. I spoke with them directly and they told me they would, but until someone sends one in we really don't know do we?


----------



## Gloomy

It would be nice if some of the tempered glass people could post a video panning around different angles with some glare going on.


----------



## BiNiaRiS

ugh. 6 days now and my tracking is finally active and my monitor is still in korea. i should have had this by the end of this week :|


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiNiaRiS*
> 
> ugh. 6 days now and my tracking is finally active and my monitor is still in korea. i should have had this by the end of this week :|


I suppose I have been lucky with dreamseller as both my monitors are following the same order/delivery sked - ordered on a Monday delivered Saturday. Although I am having them sent to my office, which is closed, so I will get my Catleap's lil brother Monday. I'll post some pics of my final monitor setup then.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I suppose I have been lucky with dreamseller as both my monitors are following the same order/delivery sked - ordered on a Monday delivered Saturday. Although I am having them sent to my office, which is closed, so I will get my Catleap's lil brother Monday. I'll post some pics of my final monitor setup then.


Your catleap was flawless too, right? No dead pixels?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Your catleap was flawless too, right? No dead pixels?


Yessir!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Yessir!


I'm liking my odds with you and Geglamesh having ordered from dream-seller as well.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I'm liking my odds with you and Geglamesh having ordered from dream-seller as well.


When is yours coming in? I will have my second on Monday and feel pretty good about it since most Catleaps are coming in perfect. According to the poll out of 14 total panels only 2 had dead pixels and I think one of those was a tempered glass with dust not sure though. I think the odds are great that a non-tempered glass model will be flawless.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> I'm considering ordering one. Is it one of those things... if you aren't in 2560x1440 w an IPS you're missing out?


Still wondering, thanks.

Also I guess no need to get tempered glass, good read and information here and on the review thread


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I suppose I have been lucky with dreamseller as both my monitors are following the same order/delivery sked - ordered on a Monday delivered Saturday. Although I am having them sent to my office, which is closed, so I will get my Catleap's lil brother Monday. I'll post some pics of my final monitor setup then.


You ordered on on Monday as in March 5th and it's gonna be delivered Saturday?


----------



## alricking

hey ScribbyDaGreat ,
You mention that your wife got a monitor with tempered glass. So the monitor built just "look" better, but no visual better//graphic? ..







sorry man just want to make sure cuz if tempered glass display better I'm getting second one and sell this


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> FINALLY...
> Quite upset I've had to wait this long, and will have to wait another several days, but at least its showing up now.
> BB


Its moving, Its moving!!!!!!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EMSTrack*
> 21:01 08-Mar-2012 Posting/Collection BUSANJIN Posting office zip code : 614013 Destination country : U.S.A
> 04:07 09-Mar-2012 Arrival at outward office of exchange INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE
> 08:04 09-Mar-2012 Departure from outward office of exchange INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE Dispatch number : 157
> Handed over to Air carrier INCHEON


BB


----------



## Hydroplane

more than 60 hz at a 2560 resolution?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiNiaRiS*
> 
> You ordered on on Monday as in March 5th and it's gonna be delivered Saturday?


Yup. Although I won't be there for it so I will have it Monday.


DateStatusPost office/AirportDetails19:11 07-Mar-2012Posting/CollectionBUSANJIN

Posting office zip code : 614013

Destination country : U.S.A

03:25 08-Mar-2012Arrival at outward office of exchangeINTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE

07:54 08-Mar-2012Departure from outward office of exchangeINTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE

Dispatch number : 154

08:25 08-Mar-2012Handed over to Air carrierINCHEON

08:55 08-Mar-2012Received by Air carrierINCHEON

16:55 08-Mar-2012Departure from AirportINCHEON

Flight date : 16:40 Thu 08 Mar 2012 (KST)

Flight number : OZ214

10:05 08-Mar-2012Airrival at Destination AirportSAN FRANCISCO

10:47 08-Mar-2012Delivered to Destination AirportSAN FRANCISCO 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> hey ScribbyDaGreat ,
> You mention that your wife got a monitor with tempered glass. So the monitor built just "look" better, but no visual better//graphic? ..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sorry man just want to make sure cuz if tempered glass display better I'm getting second one and sell this


Not one of these. It's a Mac ok?!?!? Geez quit pushing!







I didn't want to buy her a Mac, but I did.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydroplane*
> 
> more than 60 hz at a 2560 resolution?


Yessir!


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Yup. Although I won't be there for it so I will have it Monday.


you ordered it 3 days after me and it's gonna get delivered a day earlier. obviously dream seller was just slow in getting all the weekend orders out.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

found this video of Yamakasi


----------



## alricking

ScribbyDaGreat, I follow your instruction.. downloaded Toasty zip file..went to Color Management and load "catleap-d65" and "click" default..nothing happen..Please help

Here's pic


----------



## alricking

would be nice if your instruction have picture so we can see what we doing wrong.


----------



## turbocharged

Ordered mine from dream-seller on Tuesday night (aka Wednesday morning in Korea)...hopefully I can have as much luck as others and it actually ships this week.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> When is yours coming in? I will have my second on Monday and feel pretty good about it since most Catleaps are coming in perfect. According to the poll out of 14 total panels only 2 had dead pixels and I think one of those was a tempered glass with dust not sure though. I think the odds are great that a non-tempered glass model will be flawless.


Possibly by Saturday, but most likely next week. There is finally movement with my tracking, so I'll keep checking it. I was hoping for today or earlier, so I'll have to wait to open it up if I get it while I'm still working.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat, I follow your instruction.. downloaded Toasty zip file..went to Color Management and load "catleap-d65" and "click" default..nothing happen..Please help
> Here's pic


That's in there for the first part. Make sure that you follow the second part listed by Toasty in the guide. If you have, then that color profile is there. I would recommend adding all three and selecting them. You will definitely see a difference between the three if they are added properly (which it appears you have done.) I will not be able to do a step-by-step until early next week. I would bottom out your brightness then up 10 presses and try all three. There will DEFINITELY be a color difference between all three.

EDIT: Make sure you do this bit (the box was already checked for me - yours may be checked as well.) That will set the color profile to use in color managed programs, but that won't load the profile's gamma correction. You also have to go to the Advanced tab and enable the "Use Windows display calibration" option. The option is grayed out in the initial screen, so you have to click "Change system defaults..." and go to the Advanced tab there to enable it.


----------



## Blazing angel

Hi guys,

I don't have this monitor, but have a question regarding it (if this isn't the correct thread, apologies)

How big (lXW) is the actual monitor without the stand? I am asking because i cannot fit the monitor with stand on my desk, and was thinking about connecting it to the wall and lowering it to fit (like the OP)

Thanks in advance


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I don't have this monitor, but have a question regarding it (if this isn't the correct thread, apologies)
> How big (lXW) is the actual monitor without the stand? I am asking because i cannot fit the monitor with stand on my desk, and was thinking about connecting it to the wall and lowering it to fit (like the OP)
> Thanks in advance


Maybe someone else can get the measurements for you - mine is at my office! I will add that to the monitor specs tab in post 4 once we have that. Good info to add.


----------



## alricking

ScribbyDaGreat, I am trying but when I load and click apply setting.. I don't see my screen color changes or any kind of color changes at all.. please pic of how you do it or video is greatly appericated.


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blazing angel*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I don't have this monitor, but have a question regarding it (if this isn't the correct thread, apologies)
> How big (lXW) is the actual monitor without the stand? I am asking because i cannot fit the monitor with stand on my desk, and was thinking about connecting it to the wall and lowering it to fit (like the OP)
> Thanks in advance


15.75" high
25.25" wide


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat, I am trying but when I load and click apply setting.. I don't see my screen color changes or any kind of color changes at all.. please pic of how you do it or video is greatly appericated.


I will do a video, but I can't until Monday.

I updated the monitor tracking options. You can track via USPS as well. It doesn't give the same detail as EMS, but it does track from the beginning (I never knew that!)


----------



## L D4WG

It would be great if in the OP you linked the Monitor Versions to an ebay seller of that version.

I want to grab 3 of the HDMI ones so I can use my 360, Apple TV etc...


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *L D4WG*
> 
> It would be great if in the OP you linked the Monitor Versions to an ebay seller of that version.
> I want to grab 3 of the HDMI ones so I can use my 360, Apple TV etc...


I was told by a "boss" that I couldn't do that in a club thread. I was going to add the eBay seller names to the spreadsheets along with links and was told that was against the TOS. If this is incorrect, I will gladly add that information.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Anyone know if the catleap tempered glass would be flush as well? Or is this something we'll have to wait and see.

I want to pull the trigger right now already, but what do you guys think should I go with a tempered or non-tempered catleap?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Anyone know if the catleap tempered glass would be flush as well? Or is this something we'll have to wait and see.
> I want to pull the trigger right now already, but what do you guys think should I go with a tempered or non-tempered catleap?


Few have ordered Catleaps with tempered, but none have them or have posted pics yet. Here is my take on the tempered glass for THESE monitors.

We have heard that these monitors are used a lot in Korean 'bangs'. I think the tempered glass on these is more for protection from people poking/jabbing at the actual screen. Whereas Macs and other branded tempered glass monitors are done for more of an aesthetic reason. That being said, I think the quality of the glass, as well as the process of putting it on is probably a little lower scale than what we'd have here in the states.

I'd stick with a non-tempered at least until someone can post pics/opinion of a Catleap with glass.


----------



## alricking

HI everyone, I was watching youtube video on my new Catleap.. sometimes I get these mess up screen of youtube video ...i overclocked Catleap to 97hz.



Is it the monitor doing or it just video from youtube. Cuz when I reply the same spot it does not get mess up no more. But if I reply it back and front often I will get this mess up video screen on youtube..

So is it my monitor doing?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> HI everyone, I was watching youtube video on my new Catleap.. sometimes I get these mess up screen of youtube video ...i overclocked Catleap to 97hz.
> 
> Is it the monitor doing or it just video from youtube. Cuz when I reply the same spot it does not get mess up no more. But if I reply it back and front often I will get this mess up video screen on youtube..
> So is it my monitor doing?


I get that on all my monitors. YouTube sucks! Too laggy most of the time. I was just watching some clips and got that tonight on my Alienwares.


----------



## alricking

I changed the hz back to 60hz and tried playing video back and front clicking on random part, yes it still creating that artifact screen. So its not the hz problem. Is it the "Font Size"? I used custom change Font to 160%.


----------



## alricking

ScribbyDaGreat , since you here, forgot to ask you..did you overclock your monitor to 100hz? ..so far anything feel wrong with it or anything?


----------



## DarkrReign2049

I just received my tracking number from Green-Sum. I ordered around 10:30 a.m. on Monday.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> I changed the hz back to 60hz and tried playing video back and front clicking on random part, yes it still creating that artifact screen. So its not the hz problem. Is it the "Font Size"? I used custom change Font to 160%.


No idea, it doesn't look or sound like a monitor problem (like I said in the last couple of days I have had that happen on every monitor in my house - 4 different monitor models all different manufacturers.) I am chalking it up as a YouTube issue.

EDIT: It appears from the other thread people are saying this is a GPU issue. Weird for me since I have had that happen on 4 different computers all in a range of cards from mid- to SLI with different monitors, etc. The only thing that ties all 4 computers together is the fact they all run nVidia cards and I just recently updated to the newest driver. I find it hard to believe all 4 of my computers, especially the one with GTX 295 SLI is having graphical issues pushing a small YouTube video to a single 23" screen at 1920x1080p 120hz (its native resolution.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat , since you here, forgot to ask you..did you overclock your monitor to 100hz? ..so far anything feel wrong with it or anything?


Nope, I backed mine to 85hz and may even go to 75/70hz since these are for my office. When I do any gaming I will ramp it up if necessary. I am a little hesitant to run 97/100hz 24/7/365 until someone else does it first! There may be a reason the manufacturer has these set at 60hz, don't know.


----------



## eduardmc

Those anyone know if the tempered glass version is actually a glass on top of the same version non-tempered. Or if they remove the front bezel and replace it with a glass like vessel looking like the mac.


----------



## alricking

ScribbyDaGreat , I've been running mine on 97hz since the first day i got the monitor. I leave it on for a long time downloading games. RIght now its now on, but I turn it off while my desktop is on cuz its downloading.







..I would really want to test it out leaving the monitor actually on for 24hrs at least and turn off sleep mode on monitor. But so far my monitor does not show any kind of funny things beside what I mention about the video at youtube, which most likely its my graphic card doing or driver issue. I did clean installing of Window 7 and downloaded the latest driver for my gtx 9300 GE on nvidia website so I don't know why its the driver issue. Most likely its fault graphic card or it can't handle 2560x1440 resolution too well?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat , I've been running mine on 97hz since the first day i got the monitor. I leave it on for a long time downloading games. RIght now its now on, but I turn it off while my desktop is on cuz its downloading.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ..I would really want to test it out leaving the monitor actually on for 24hrs at least and turn off sleep mode on monitor. But so far my monitor does not show any kind of funny things beside what I mention about the video at youtube, which most likely its my graphic card doing or driver issue. I did clean installing of Window 7 and downloaded the latest driver for my gtx 9300 GE on nvidia website so I don't know why its the driver issue. Most likely its fault graphic card or it can't handle 2560x1440 resolution too well?


Could be. Maybe check nVidia and see what that card can push. I have a GTS 250 at the office and it hasn't done that ghosting issue (yet!) All my computers at my house have done that at least once this week.

Off to drink, umm, I mean golf!







Keep us posted.


----------



## Radeon915

My Catleap will be shipped coming monday. I've offered and payed dream-seller $30,- extra to run a check on it for dead pixels and/or other flaws before shipping it, so today I got a message that it has been checked and it turned out to have none of that, and (s)he'll be sending the extra $30 back my way as he/she thought it was way too much for just a simple check.

So far dream-seller is really living up to his/her ebay name.


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> 15.75" high
> 25.25" wide


Thx!

What about the height including the stand? is that 19.81 inches?

my desk can fit 19.5, so i might be a tight spot with just the stock stand.

I might be thinking of going with the 3m adjustable stand -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013CD0DI/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000FLXW90&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0M5HJXW7V8RASAV1GFE9


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeon915*
> 
> My Catleap will be shipped coming monday. I've offered and payed dream-seller $30,- extra to run a check on it for dead pixels and/or other flaws before shipping it, so today I got a message that it has been checked and it turned out to have none of that, and (s)he'll be sending the extra $30 back my way as he/she thought it was way too much for just a simple check.
> So far dream-seller is really living up to his/her ebay name.


this is a good tip! Should be posted on the front page along with info of the sellers if you can scribby.


----------



## Druidje

Guys, does anyone know if Green-Sum ships with bubble wrap around it?


----------



## BBGunWB

woot! My monitor just landed in SF!

http://flightaware.com/live/flight/AAR214

BB


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> woot! My monitor just landed in SF!
> http://flightaware.com/live/flight/AAR214
> BB


Mine too. I don't expect that we'll get them until Monday though.


----------



## yannatracker

Help me decide. Do I want the Catleap with or without speakers? I decided I want the glass, but struggling with the speaker decision..


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> woot! My monitor just landed in SF!
> http://flightaware.com/live/flight/AAR214
> BB


yeah, i bet there was at least 10+ of the monitors on that flight. i know mine was, haha.


----------



## minnus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yannatracker*
> 
> Help me decide. Do I want the Catleap with or without speakers? I decided I want the glass, but struggling with the speaker decision..


Do you already own speakers? If you have dedicated speakers, theres no way monitor speakers would be better. I already own a pair of A2's, so it would have been silly for me to get a monitor with speakers.


----------



## Blazing angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> 15.75" high
> 25.25" wide


Huzzah! It'll fit









Thanks


----------



## KuuFA

yay got my shipping info from green sum! Ordered on monday the 5th in the afternoon i should get it next week?


----------



## minnus

So weird...my monitor arrived at Incheon the same time as everyone else, but it still hasn't gotten on a plane yet :'(


----------



## AMGRoadster

[quote name="yannatracker" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/120#post_16670906"]Help me decide. Do I want the Catleap with or without speakers? I decided I want the glass, but struggling with the speaker decision..[/quote] Without. Why would you want to pay for crappy speakers? If you don't have a set go out and pick up something.


----------



## alricking

Guys I have a question, I have CATLEAP w/ speakers. I know CATLEAP does not have HDMI but they do have AUDIO pug how like eternal speakers we use to pug in at the back of the motherboard. Is there some sort of extension or adapter where I can pug both of my external speakers and the monitor speakers together and use as one? ...


----------



## alricking

Is this what I might be looking for guys? To use my external speakers and CATLEAP speaker using this spitter ?

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8Z359tt06INCHP-Adapter-Headphone-Splitter/dp/B0047T79M2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


----------



## munaim1

http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/650#post_16604349

Chase him up scribby and see if you can get him to join


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> So weird...my monitor arrived at Incheon the same time as everyone else, but it still hasn't gotten on a plane yet :'(


i'm in the same boat...... waiting and waiting


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Guys I have a question, I have CATLEAP w/ speakers. I know CATLEAP does not have HDMI but they do have AUDIO pug how like eternal speakers we use to pug in at the back of the motherboard. Is there some sort of extension or adapter where I can pug both of my external speakers and the monitor speakers together and use as one? ...


http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-MUYHSFMM-Headset-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0058DOWH6

Like that? (although I would look for a cheaper one)


----------



## sh1v

My catleap just arrived today from green-sum as well. Took about five days.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/1750_50#post_16670728


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sh1v*
> 
> My catleap just arrived today from green-sum as well. Took about five days.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/1750_50#post_16670728


saw that any flaws or anything and that is some serious packaging i hope mine comes like that.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/650#post_16604349
> Chase him up scribby and see if you can get him to join


He has been on here and knows he should join! Come on necriss get with it!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sh1v*
> 
> My catleap just arrived today from green-sum as well. Took about five days.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/1750_50#post_16670728


Do a post, post some pics, and complete the form! Help your other OC members out!


----------



## sh1v

So i ordered from green-sum saturday morning. Got it today. Catleap no speakers Q270 Ebay link


Packaging was great. Big box, lots of padding around. I don't see anything that's broken so far.







My Westinghouse L2410NM that has a MVA panel 1920 x 1200 next to Catleap


Windows8 looks great. Text looks crisp. I don't think i can ever do coding on a normal screen again.


Catleap LCD is bit higher than what i am used to. I might get a wall mount for this.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

It's the same size from the bottom as the monitor you have next to it! It's just a LARGER monitor.


----------



## sh1v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It's the same size from the bottom as the monitor you have next to it! It's just a LARGER monitor.


haha its actually inch higher. However before catleap i have been using a 19" Dell that was lot lower than these two.


----------



## mk_ln

hm...i noticed in the other thread that some people were mentioning that the Catleaps don't support anything other than their native resolution...is that true?


----------



## CRosko42

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk_ln*
> 
> hm...i noticed in the other thread that some people were mentioning that the Catleaps don't support anything other than their native resolution...is that true?


As long as your GPU can scale images (which every modern one can) you will be fine. You can display any resolution and the gpu will scale the image based on your settings. You can choose to have it mapped 1:1 (with black bars surrounding it), stretched, ect.

Where you would run into a problem is if you are not using a gpu to output to the monitor (think game console or cable box) and the hardware does not scale the image on it's own, you will be out of luck, as the unit lacks an internal scaler.

This is just based off everything I have been reading, my monitor is still shipping. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm off about anything.

Edit: Here is the scaling section of the nvidia control panel, showing the options you have.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mk_ln*
> 
> hm...i noticed in the other thread that some people were mentioning that the Catleaps don't support anything other than their native resolution...is that true?


Dude that avatar has to be against TOS lol. But yea it doesn't have a built in scaler so prob not but it should if you have a scaler outputting the correct resolution then it should be fine lol.


----------



## sh1v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CRosko42*
> 
> As long as your GPU can scale images (which every modern one can) you will be fine. You can display any resolution and the gpu will scale the image based on your settings. You can choose to have it mapped 1:1 (with black bars surrounding it), stretched, ect.
> Where you would run into a problem is if you are not using a gpu to output to the monitor (think game console or cable box) and the hardware does not scale the image on it's own, you will be out of luck, as the unit lacks an internal scaler.
> This is just based off everything I have been reading, my monitor is still shipping. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm off about anything.
> Edit: Here is the scaling section of the nvidia control panel, showing the options you have.


So i dont know if its the OS(windows 8) or the catleap but i can only do 60hz. Is there anything else we have to edit to get more than 60hz with nvidia cards besides going through "create custom res through nv cpanel"?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Im probably gonna need another 7950 to push this monitor effectively.

Ordered the monitor last night so god knows when ill get it.

Hopefully soon








and with no dead pixels

Ill add some pics when it gets here.


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Im probably gonna need another 7950 to push this monitor effectively.
> Ordered the monitor last night so god knows when ill get it.
> Hopefully soon
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and with no dead pixels
> Ill add some pics when it gets here.


I don't think you'll need another 7950.
My two 6950s max everything I can throw at it them at 1440P.
It's a nice change of pace for my GPUs coming from 3500x1920.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> I don't think you'll need another 7950.
> My two 6950s max everything I can throw at it them at 1440P.
> It's a nice change of pace for my GPUs coming from 3500x1920.


Well I have to justify getting another one some way.


----------



## Demented

At least mine is finally on a plane...


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> At least mine is finally on a plane...


Lol there has been some _serious_ complaining over shipping time in the other thread.
I guess selling 100s of huge monitors over night is no excuse for the hungry (and mostly newly registered) members of OCN!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Lol there has been some _serious_ complaining over shipping time in the other thread.
> I guess selling 100s of huge monitors over night is no excuse for the hungry (and mostly newly registered) members of OCN!


I'm a tad bummed, but I said in that thread as well, as long as it comes within the estimated delivery, or even a day after, I'll be fine. I don't expect miracles with delivery, just a flawless panel, thank you very much.







Better that it come when I have the time off too.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Lol there has been some _serious_ complaining over shipping time in the other thread.
> I guess selling 100s of huge monitors over night is no excuse for the hungry (and mostly newly registered) members of OCN!


I know right? I for one understand that with the sudden increase of orders there was bound to be a slow down with shipments, He's on the other side of the world and he's just a small company so as long as it gets to me before 2-3 weeks I will be happy lol.


----------



## Caustin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Well I have to justify getting another one some way.


Let me help you out. You will need another 7950 if you want to use this monitor in anyway shape or form.

...I know I need to be pushed sometimes even if it is by false statements.


----------



## vhxonline

Ordered from Green-Sum. Packaging was well done. However that's where the good things end.

1) Opened it up to find WATER INSIDE THE MONITOR PACKAGING.

2) The Stand tilts, but I understand this is normal for all Catleaps.

3) Got 4 dead pixels stacked next to each other.

Not that good of a deal. Oh well I guess I can live with it, but severely disappointing.

Here's the pictures I took:


http://imgur.com/aTnQq


----------



## Morgot

Just received mine. Took exactly a week from the day I ordered. Very pleased.


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> Ordered from Green-Sum. Packaging was well done. However that's where the good things end.
> 1) Opened it up to find WATER INSIDE THE MONITOR PACKAGING.


Holy crap! At least it still works.
Quote:


> 2) The Stand tilts, but I understand this is normal for all Catleaps.


Take a look at the Catleap tear down, I bet you can fix that by adjusting the way the stand mounts to the monitor.
Quote:


> 3) Got 4 dead pixels stacked next to each other.


That's the really sucky part.









Hopefully you can massage/test/wakeup at least some of those stuck pixels.
Quote:


> Not that good of a deal. Oh well I guess I can live with it, but severely disappointing.


Bummer. Only the second really bad experience, so far, though.

BB


----------



## psycheangel

damn 2 day still stuck in BUSANJIN


----------



## vhxonline

Also to add on to my last post, my Catleap is not going above 60hz in any way shape or form on my 9800GT.

Have tried manual timings and automatic timings of the following 'confirmed working' ones 74, 85, 96, and 100.

What a total let down, especially for the hype, meh, atleast the colors are impressive as it's my first S-IPS.


----------



## minnus

Sorry to hear that


----------



## stblazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> Also to add on to my last post, my Catleap is not going above 60hz in any way shape or form on my 9800GT.
> Have tried manual timings and automatic timings of the following 'confirmed working' ones 74, 85, 96, and 100.
> What a total let down, especially for the hype, meh, atleast the colors are impressive as it's my first S-IPS.


Hi Everyone at OC.

Which model did you get? Most people with "SE" seems to be able to use a higher refresh rate.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> Also to add on to my last post, my Catleap is not going above 60hz in any way shape or form on my 9800GT.
> Have tried manual timings and automatic timings of the following 'confirmed working' ones 74, 85, 96, and 100.
> What a total let down, especially for the hype, meh, atleast the colors are impressive as it's my first S-IPS.


Sorry man thats a total bummer. Can you attempt to return it?


----------



## vhxonline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> Hi Everyone at OC.
> Which model did you get? Most people with "SE" seems to be able to use a higher refresh rate.


I have the SE model.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> Hi Everyone at OC.
> Which model did you get? Most people with "SE" seems to be able to use a higher refresh rate.


All Catleap q270s are the same panel just a few model changes (speakers, glass, etc.) You should be able to OC that sucker with your 9800. Strange. Sounds like a bad panel. Sorry to hear about that.


----------



## tinklepee

Just received my monitor from green-sum.

+Packaging was awesome!

+No dead/stuck pixels.

-The stand is terrible... it actually cracked while I was adjusting the screen. And it tilts too the right.

I'll post pics later.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> 
> Just received my monitor from green-sum.
> +Packaging was awesome!
> +No dead/stuck pixels.
> -The stand is terrible... it actually cracked while I was adjusting the screen. And it tilts too the right.
> I'll post pics later.


Have all the Catleaps been leaning? I thought it was one, now maybe two people that had leaning stands? From the first guy that posted pics in the other thread, it looked as if the one screw was longer (slightly) than the other. A dremel would make quick work of fixing that. So to the other Catleap owners, does yours lean at all?


----------



## tinklepee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Have all the Catleaps been leaning? I thought it was one, now maybe two people that had leaning stands? From the first guy that posted pics in the other thread, it looked as if the one screw was longer (slightly) than the other. A dremel would make quick work of fixing that. So to the other Catleap owners, does yours lean at all?


The problem is the stand doesn't fit flush with the base. I tried to get it flush and it ended up cracking.... it's a bad design. Time to find another mount!

PS. I have four books and a usb thumb driver keeping it level... lol


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Have all the Catleaps been leaning? I thought it was one, now maybe two people that had leaning stands? From the first guy that posted pics in the other thread, it looked as if the one screw was longer (slightly) than the other. A dremel would make quick work of fixing that. So to the other Catleap owners, does yours lean at all?


Mine leaned and I would imagine all would have the lean based on how they stand is actually mounted to the panel (see my deconstruction of the stand for my wall mount solution). My second Catleap was an attempted delivery today at my office, but I plan on tearing it apart first thing to wall mount it (well I guess I will throw the stand on there to see if this one leans as well now that I think about it.) Then I will post some pics of the final setup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> 
> The problem is the stand doesn't fit flush with the base. I tried to get it flush and it ended up cracking.... it's a bad design. Time to find another mount!
> PS. I have four books and a usb thumb driver keeping it level... lol


I didn't have a flush mount issue between the stand arm and the base - mine was actually perfect. I think the problem lies in that the screen is so big (awesomeness) and the mounting point inside the panel is in the lower third of the panel and rather small. To support this panel properly you need a mount at the VESA mount locations for it to be solid - i.e., mid-point on the panel and much wider/thicker. Having the stock stand mount so far down and using a plastic to plastic connection point for the clear stand base allows this big boy plenty of opportunity to wobble - and it definitely does.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Mine leaned and I would imagine all would have the lean based on how they stand is actually mounted to the panel (see my deconstruction of the stand for my wall mount solution). My second Catleap was an attempted delivery today at my office, but I plan on tearing it apart first thing to wall mount it (well I guess I will throw the stand on there to see if this one leans as well now that I think about it.) Then I will post some pics of the final setup.
> 
> I didn't have a flush mount issue between the stand arm and the base - mine was actually perfect. I think the problem lies in that the screen is so big (awesomeness) and the mounting point inside the panel is in the lower third of the panel and rather small. To support this panel properly you need a mount at the VESA mount locations for it to be solid - i.e., mid-point on the panel and much wider/thicker. Having the stock stand mount so far down and using a plastic to plastic connection point for the clear stand base allows this big boy plenty of opportunity to wobble - and it definitely does.


Well now I'm thinking I want to look for a desk mount then. I would do a wall mount, but really want something simpler. How's this look:

Desk Mount


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Well now I'm thinking I want to look for a desk mount then. I would do a wall mount, but really want something simpler. How's this look:
> Desk Mount


Some of the reviews aren't that great, but that is the basic mount I would use if I wanted a clamp solution.


----------



## Somenamehere

Picked this up for my monitor when I found out the stand was crap.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082802&p_id=8098&seq=1&format=2

Hopefully it works.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Picked this up for my monitor when I found out the stand was crap.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082802&p_id=8098&seq=1&format=2
> Hopefully it works.


I bought this one lol, it should come in when my monitor comes which will be perfect!

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Picked this up for my monitor when I found out the stand was crap.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082802&p_id=8098&seq=1&format=2
> Hopefully it works.


Only thing is I'd be looking for a stand, not a wall mount. I'm still waiting until my Catleap gets here, but I'm preparing for the possible inevitable.


----------



## ughnook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Well now I'm thinking I want to look for a desk mount then. I would do a wall mount, but really want something simpler. How's this look:
> Desk Mount


Read somewhere that the arm tilts to one side. The 27in Catleap/Shimian would be quite heavy and there will be tilting for sure, but someone replaced the plastic knobs and screws with heavy duty nuts and bolts and made it really tight so it no longer tilts.

Here's a review on it.
http://widescreengamingforum.com/forum/11518/monoprice-3-way-adjustable-monitor-arms-triple-setup

Are the VESA mounts for the catleap/shimian 100 x 100?


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Only thing is I'd be looking for a stand, not a wall mount. I'm still waiting until my Catleap gets here, but I'm preparing for the possible inevitable.


Same here. So far, i have two options:

-> http://www.amazon.com/3M-Easy-Adjust-Monitor-Stand-MS110MB/dp/B0013CD0DI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1331461219&sr=8-3

--> http://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Tilting-SINGLE-Bracket-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1331461219&sr=8-6


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raiden911*
> 
> Same here. So far, i have two options:
> -> http://www.amazon.com/3M-Easy-Adjust-Monitor-Stand-MS110MB/dp/B0013CD0DI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1331461219&sr=8-3
> --> http://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Tilting-SINGLE-Bracket-10~23inch/dp/B003L11FUY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1331461219&sr=8-6


The first one I looked at as well, and it looks good, but a little more than I had wanted. Still it seems the best option.

The second looks way too weak for me to even want to try it with these beasts.


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> The first one I looked at as well, and it looks good, but a little more than I had wanted. Still it seems the best option.


check ebay for the 3M one. i just bought one for $34 shipped. from reading reviews, it seems like it's an amazing stand.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiNiaRiS*
> 
> check ebay for the 3M one. i just bought one for $34 shipped. from reading reviews, it seems like it's an amazing stand.


Good tip, thanks!


----------



## utnorris

Well I broke down and got one. I have three Dell U2211's currently, but I didn't like Nvidia Surround or Eyefinity on them due to the bezels, so hopefully this will be better. I am curious, has anyone tried using the Vesa mount without removing the silver arch?


----------



## DrRetina

Just ordered one, and I will most likely get another if it's fine.

I don't really care for the shiny bezel. Did anyone try to "mod" it yet?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Well I broke down and got one. I have three Dell U2211's currently, but I didn't like Nvidia Surround or Eyefinity on them due to the bezels, so hopefully this will be better. I am curious, has anyone tried using the Vesa mount without removing the silver arch?


It isn't possible without modifications to the arc itself. The arc is pretty close the the mounts and I doubt a swing arm would fit coming out the side. Although I am speaking from memory here as I don't have an arc on mine anymore.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *DrRetina*
> 
> Just ordered one, and I will most likely get another if it's fine.
> I don't really care for the shiny bezel. Did anyone try to "mod" it yet?


You could mod it really easily. It comes off in seconds and you could paint and mod away!


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sh1v*
> 
> So i dont know if its the OS(windows 8) or the catleap but i can only do 60hz. Is there anything else we have to edit to get more than 60hz with nvidia cards besides going through "create custom res through nv cpanel"?


Honestly it probably has something to do with Windows 8. It's still in beta/preview... so I wouldn't expect everything to work like it does in win7.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> Also to add on to my last post, my Catleap is not going above 60hz in any way shape or form on my 9800GT.
> Have tried manual timings and automatic timings of the following 'confirmed working' ones 74, 85, 96, and 100.
> What a total let down, especially for the hype, meh, atleast the colors are impressive as it's my first S-IPS.


Did you try ToastyX's utility?


----------



## AMD_Freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> I have the SE model.


I wish the OP (thread starter) would post the Model numbers on the spread sheet to make it easier, Im confused as to what model has glass & speakers / no glass but speakers etc and maybe a spot to post what hertz everyone is getting.


----------



## Mr Ripper

I only just realised I had a tracking number so I had a look and apparently my package already landed at London Heathrow and has been through customs.

I ordered at about 2pm on the 8th. As I'm in the UK that would be 11pm Korean time I think. Not bad considering that's only been Friday to ship it out and in the air Saturday.

This is from green-sum btw


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Ok got my catleap this morning, its pretty fkn nice! Wayyy less reflective than S27A950D it's replacing.

I need some help using ToastyX's EDID overide program, tried setting 85hz as per this post, with exact same timings etc:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1675393&page=23

Rebooted and I only had 640 x 480,flickering like mad and turning black screen every 3 seconds, it was also stuck at 60hz.. am I missing something?


----------



## yannatracker

I just placed my order:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/110834882557?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce4617fd#ht_15341wt_1102
I also ordered:
http://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-Premium-Powered-Desktop-Speakers/dp/B000VKEFN2
And:
http://www.amazon.com/Filco-Majestouch-2-Keyboard-FKBN104MC-EFB2/dp/B004Z0XS0K/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1331506132&sr=1-1
Now I just need to wait till Ivy Bridge and Kepler are release, then I'll order me a computer to replace my aging laptop.


----------



## tinklepee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> Ok got my catleap this morning, its pretty fkn nice! Wayyy less reflective than S27A950D it's replacing.
> I need some help using ToastyX's EDID overide program, tried setting 85hz as per this post, with exact same timings etc:
> http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1675393&page=23
> Rebooted and I only had 640 x 480,flickering like mad and turning black screen every 3 seconds, it was also stuck at 60hz.. am I missing something?


I'm having the same problem. What card are you using?

edit; Nvm, didn't think to look in your sig..







I'm using a 7970. When I input the settings my screen immediately goes black and flickers. Sometimes it has weird designs almost like a visualizer.


----------



## Z06sc

Just ordered the Catleap. Says it will be here sometime this week. I'll post an update.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> 
> I'm having the same problem. What card are you using?
> edit; Nvm, didn't think to look in your sig..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using a 7970. When I input the settings my screen immediately goes black and flickers. Sometimes it has weird designs almost like a visualizer.


Yea using just a 6990, I'm getting the same flickering disco as you. In my case it doesnt flicker straight away, I need to reboot for program to kick in. It when it gets into windows it does it. I dont know but the second time I tried it, I rebooted to a completely black screen... I had to format and and now reinstalling all my apps...


----------



## tinklepee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> Yea using just a 6990, I'm getting the same flickering disco as you. In my case it doesnt flicker straight away, I need to reboot for program to kick in. It when it gets into windows it does it. I dont know but the second time I tried it, I rebooted to a completely black screen... I had to format and and now reinstalling all my apps...


I was unclear... I have to reboot too, but when I set the refresh rate to 85Hz it just goes nuts. I also had to do a system restore... even tried loading windows in VGA mode and it would just show a black screen. I'll post back if I figure something out, good luck!


----------



## turbocharged

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> I only just realised I had a tracking number so I had a look and apparently my package already landed at London Heathrow and has been through customs.
> 
> I ordered at about 2pm on the 8th. As I'm in the UK that would be 11pm Korean time I think. Not bad considering that's only been Friday to ship it out and in the air Saturday.
> 
> This is from green-sum btw


Should have ordered mine from green-sum...no tracking number yet and I ordered from dream-seller on the 6th :frowny face:

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk


----------



## vhxonline

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibtar*
> 
> Did you try ToastyX's utility?


Yup. Just causes this: http://i.imgur.com/udeOk.jpg

Either some people got special panels or over 60hz is only available for the newest GPU's. And with the people recently getting their Catleap's and not getting over 60hz, I'm thinking it's the former. So far it has been a complete myth for me.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> Yup. Just causes this: http://i.imgur.com/udeOk.jpg
> Either some people got special panels or over 60hz is only available for the newest GPU's. And with the people recently getting their Catleap's and not getting over 60hz, I'm thinking it's the former. So far it has been a complete myth for me.


Odd. Did you get the one with or without the speakers?

You can't even go up to, say, 61 or 62hz? If you can't go anywhere above 60hz to me that sounds more like a driver/video card issue rather than an issue with the display itself. I can't see any reason it wouldn't be able to go at least a bit higher.

Both of you are using newer AMD cards, maybe that has something to do with it? I know the guy who originally got 97hz on his Catleap was using something like a GTX 580.

edit; oh sorry you're using a 9800GT - the other two guys were using a 6990 and 7970 I believe.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> Yea using just a 6990, I'm getting the same flickering disco as you. In my case it doesnt flicker straight away, I need to reboot for program to kick in. It when it gets into windows it does it. I dont know but the second time I tried it, I rebooted to a completely black screen... I had to format and and now reinstalling all my apps...


Why couldn't you just boot into safe mode and fix it through there?


----------



## vhxonline

I guess I should be more specific.

I can get up to 62hz. 63 will fail with an error that my display doesn't support it.

Up to about 85hz it will go black and return after a bit.

Anything over 85 hz it will give those lines in the previous image and fail to return and requires a hard reboot.

I have the SE model. No tempered glass. No speakers.


----------



## ibtar

That sucks. I hope it's a video card issue and not the panel itself, because if it is, a lot of people are going to be disappointed when they can't get higher refresh rates...


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> I guess I should be more specific.
> I can get up to 62hz. 63 will fail with an error that my display doesn't support it.
> Up to about 85hz it will go black and return after a bit.
> Anything over 85 hz it will give those lines in the previous image and fail to return and requires a hard reboot.
> I have the SE model. No tempered glass. No speakers.


well these monitors aren't supposed to go above their rated 60hz so you must've gotten a "normal" monitor. Bad luck :-(


----------



## tinklepee

I just played BF3 and selected 2560x1440 @ 85Hz and it seemed to work... but whenever I try to set it in CCC or through windows the screen just turns black and occasionally flickers.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> 
> I just played BF3 and selected 2560x1440 @ 85Hz and it seemed to work... but whenever I try to set it in CCC or through windows the screen just turns black and occasionally flickers.


Yeah that's definitely odd. Did actually "feel" like 85hz or what? The difference should have been pretty noticeable.


----------



## necriss

Seems like an issue with ToastyX's program not supporting newer AMD cards. Can someone try ATI Tray Tools and see if the refresh rate forcer in that works ? http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=320467


----------



## jdmathew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> 
> I was unclear... I have to reboot too, but when I set the refresh rate to 85Hz it just goes nuts. I also had to do a system restore... even tried loading windows in VGA mode and it would just show a black screen. I'll post back if I figure something out, good luck!


Another user was speaking of what sounded like this exact same issue. They found a simple solution was to turn the monitor on only AFTER the pc had booted up. The monitor seemed to have a problem on system reboots/restarts.


----------



## Demented

I just saw that my Catleap is now in Philly!







I hope if it comes tomorrow, it comes early enough, since I have to sleep during the day for work. If not, I should be able to pick it up on Tuesday.


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I just saw that my Catleap is now in Philly!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope if it comes tomorrow, it comes early enough, since I have to sleep during the day for work. If not, I should be able to pick it up on Tuesday.


mine is in portland as of today as well so i'm expecting it tomorrow


----------



## ughnook

Just an idea.
Very cheap Catleap Plywood mod.


Attach a piece of plywood to the VESA mount. Detach the stem with goes into the monitor and re-attach it to the bottom of the plywood. Will this be enough to stabilize the monitor?


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Any one here successfully gotten 85hz with a 6990?


----------



## the337

Is anyone running this in dual monitor setup or a triple monitor setup? I was wondering if I could run two of these off of one graphics card. I know for everyday tasks it would be fine. I'm not much of a gamer and if I did play I would only play on one monitor leaving the other one open for browsing the internet and stuff like that. The main question I have is since these require dual link DVI how would you go about running them off of one card? Most of the AMD cards I've seen only have one dual link dvi. I'm not sure about Nvidia cards though. Thanks!


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> I only just realised I had a tracking number so I had a look and apparently my package already landed at London Heathrow and has been through customs.
> I ordered at about 2pm on the 8th. As I'm in the UK that would be 11pm Korean time I think. Not bad considering that's only been Friday to ship it out and in the air Saturday.
> This is from green-sum btw


Update on my delivery progress:

It's on the van to my house now. So basically I ordered late Thursday (too late to do anything that day) and received Monday. This is the UK though so I don't know if this makes any difference. Can't get much better than that. Especially over the weekend!


----------



## turbocharged

Ordered on the 6th (effectively the 7th in Korea though)...tracking number on the 12th from dreamseller. At least I know that it is on it's way.


----------



## civilsurvey

To answer a question from above, I made two separate offers to Red-Cap for a Catleap. The first was $360 and it was rejected. The second was at $365 and it, too, was rejected. I then sent him/her an email asking why they bothered with the Best Offer option, since they were not even willing to sell at about a 2% discount. I did not receive a reply.

Based on that, I chose not to order from Red-Cap. Instead, I placed my order last night (Sunday) with dcsamsungmall at 6:30 pm CDT, which would have been around 8:30 am Monday morning in Korea. I received a Fedex tracking number 3.5-hours later at 10:00 pm CDT. I then received an eBay shipping notice Monday morning at 2:30 am (8-hours after ordering) indicating that my item had shipped. I checked the tracking this morning (Monday at 6:30 am) and the package had been picked up and on its way to Incheon Airport by 2:30 PM (Korea time on Monday), approximately 6-hours after ordering. That's what I call speedy shipping!

I am not sure why so many buyers are enthralled with dreamseller. He/she has a 98.5% FB rating, which is low enough that I would stay away even if they were a US seller. They appear to be overwhelmed at the moment with too many orders to keep track of and, therefore, slow shipping. Dcsamsungmall has a 99.7% FB rating and his shipping efficiency, at least in my case, was unparalleled.


----------



## eduardmc

i don't know if anyone has notice this but we all Catleap owner should help the OP with filling out the form in this club. He invested so much time and effort creating this. I have not receive mine but when i do i'll join the club for sure.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *civilsurvey*
> 
> To answer a question from above, I made two separate offers to Red-Cap for a Catleap. The first was $360 and it was rejected. The second was at $365 and it, too, was rejected. I then sent him/her an email asking why they bothered with the Best Offer option, since they were not even willing to sell at about a 2% discount. I did not receive a reply.
> Based on that, I chose not to order from Red-Cap. Instead, I placed my order last night (Sunday) with dcsamsungmall at 6:30 pm CDT, which would have been around 8:30 am Monday morning in Korea. I received a Fedex tracking number 3.5-hours later at 10:00 pm CDT. I then received an eBay shipping notice Monday morning at 2:30 am (8-hours after ordering) indicating that my item had shipped. I checked the tracking this morning (Monday at 6:30 am) and the package had been picked up and on its way to Incheon Airport by 2:30 PM (Korea time on Monday), approximately 6-hours after ordering. That's what I call speedy shipping!
> I am not sure why so many buyers are enthralled with dreamseller. He/she has a 98.5% FB rating, which is low enough that I would stay away even if they were a US seller. They appear to be overwhelmed at the moment with too many orders to keep track of and, therefore, slow shipping. Dcsamsungmall has a 99.7% FB rating and his shipping efficiency, at least in my case, was unparalleled.


There was one delivered from that seller that was damaged during shipping, and I think that made a few stay away.


----------



## sonicBlue

To the people complaining about the stand tilting to one side, can't you just stick a piece of folded paper or cardboard under one side of the base to level it out? I had to do that with the Dell U2711's as they leaned too. Unless there's something about the catleap stand that doesn't allow you to do that, I can't see why people are going to the lengths of buying a whole new stand for it. I am extremely anal about having the monitor perfectly level with eye height, so this is really important for me to know as I am about to place an order with green-sum.


----------



## Demented

I guess I may not get much sleep today, as my Catleap is OUT FOR DELIVERY! However, if it doesn't come soon enough, I'll have to wait until tomorrow to get it up and test it.

Should be a happy day for a lot of Catleap buyers today.


----------



## Mr Ripper

If you are going to use the standard stand I think someone said you can correct it by taking it apart and refitting. Hopefully someone will confirm.

Personally I think I'll by a vesa mount / arm so I can get the monitor a bit lower. Just need to find one suitable.

I'll fill in the form once I check out my monitor.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> If you are going to use the standard stand I think someone said you can correct it by taking it apart and refitting. Hopefully someone will confirm.
> Personally I think I'll by a vesa mount / arm so I can get the monitor a bit lower. Just need to find one suitable.
> I'll fill in the form once I check out my monitor.


I wanted a different stand for adjustability. I thought I'd wait until I actually got the monitor, but I know how much I love my Dell's stands, so I wanted something similar. I'm wary about cracking it open to remove the grey piece, but I figure nothing ventured, nothing gained. However, my stand won't be here for a few more days.


----------



## three0duster

I placed my order on Saturday night from Green-sum. Does anyone know how long it usually takes for this seller to issue a tracking number? I remember one of the sellers only shipped 2 or 3 days out of the week. Anyone willing to share their experience with this seller?


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *three0duster*
> 
> I placed my order on Saturday night from Green-sum. Does anyone know how long it usually takes for this seller to issue a tracking number? I remember one of the sellers only shipped 2 or 3 days out of the week. Anyone willing to share their experience with this seller?


Green-Sum will probably shipped out by wednesday. Remember, this monitor are selling like hot cake right now. Before, we would get are shipment quicklybut now this guys are getting 10-20 orders per day so you probably won't get your until next week. Just be patience and it'll arrive.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *the337*
> 
> Is anyone running this in dual monitor setup or a triple monitor setup? I was wondering if I could run two of these off of one graphics card. I know for everyday tasks it would be fine. I'm not much of a gamer and if I did play I would only play on one monitor leaving the other one open for browsing the internet and stuff like that. The main question I have is since these require dual link DVI how would you go about running them off of one card? Most of the AMD cards I've seen only have one dual link dvi. I'm not sure about Nvidia cards though. Thanks!


I will have my second in house in about 2 hours and will let you know! To all the AMD peeps with issues getting the monitor to OC - sorry I cannot help since I am running all nVidia. I have had zero problems going to 97hz on a GTS 250 card (the lowest-end nVidia card I have on hand).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *civilsurvey*
> 
> To answer a question from above, I made two separate offers to Red-Cap for a Catleap. The first was $360 and it was rejected. The second was at $365 and it, too, was rejected. I then sent him/her an email asking why they bothered with the Best Offer option, since they were not even willing to sell at about a 2% discount. I did not receive a reply.
> Based on that, I chose not to order from Red-Cap. Instead, I placed my order last night (Sunday) with dcsamsungmall at 6:30 pm CDT, which would have been around 8:30 am Monday morning in Korea. I received a Fedex tracking number 3.5-hours later at 10:00 pm CDT. I then received an eBay shipping notice Monday morning at 2:30 am (8-hours after ordering) indicating that my item had shipped. I checked the tracking this morning (Monday at 6:30 am) and the package had been picked up and on its way to Incheon Airport by 2:30 PM (Korea time on Monday), approximately 6-hours after ordering. That's what I call speedy shipping!
> I am not sure why so many buyers are enthralled with dreamseller. He/she has a 98.5% FB rating, which is low enough that I would stay away even if they were a US seller. They appear to be overwhelmed at the moment with too many orders to keep track of and, therefore, slow shipping. Dcsamsungmall has a 99.7% FB rating and his shipping efficiency, at least in my case, was unparalleled.


For me dreamseller has come through with flying colors both times. I don't care what his overall rating is since with me it's 100%. That doesn't mean he is going to be great every time (who is?), but that's been mine and other's experience with him. Take our recommendations with a grain of salt and go with what your gut says. That's the reason for this club, form, and spreadsheet - to get as much info collected so others can make informed decisions regarding who to use and what to purchase.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> To the people complaining about the stand tilting to one side, can't you just stick a piece of folded paper or cardboard under one side of the base to level it out? I had to do that with the Dell U2711's as they leaned too. Unless there's something about the catleap stand that doesn't allow you to do that, I can't see why people are going to the lengths of buying a whole new stand for it. I am extremely anal about having the monitor perfectly level with eye height, so this is really important for me to know as I am about to place an order with green-sum.


The lean for me was not due to the connection between the stand arm and the base - it was due to how the stand is designed. It really isn't designed to handle a monitor this wide (it is very heavy - just wide of course) so it will tilt and wobble. I have yet to read about a Catleap that does not have a the tilt and/or wobble issue. It isn't really a negative for me since I changed the mount out immediately. Just be aware that you may find that an extra $30-$50 for a better stand might be required for you to be happy with your monitor (still hundreds less than an equivalent purchased in the US.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> If you are going to use the standard stand I think someone said you can correct it by taking it apart and refitting. Hopefully someone will confirm.
> Personally I think I'll by a vesa mount / arm so I can get the monitor a bit lower. Just need to find one suitable.
> I'll fill in the form once I check out my monitor.


That is only if your stand arm and base are not contacting each other flush. Someone noted that was an issue with theirs. However, that will not solve the overall problem. Take a look at the stand removal and you will see the mounting point is simply too low for the width of the monitor and the size of the stand mount is too small.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *three0duster*
> 
> ... from Green-sum. Does anyone know how long it usually takes for this seller to issue a tracking number?


I just noticed it on my ebay summary so not sure when it first appeared. I didn't receive an e-mail or anything telling me I had a tracking no.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMD_Freak*
> 
> I wish the OP (thread starter) would post the Model numbers on the spread sheet to make it easier, Im confused as to what model has glass & speakers / no glass but speakers etc and maybe a spot to post what hertz everyone is getting.


I would post model numbers, but I don't read Korean. If you go to the manufacturer's website (link in first post or each model listed in fourth post) the model numbers don't get translated into English. Until I can get model numbers in English the spreadsheet will remain broken out by model variations. If people are confused about the different models for sale from a particular eBay seller, my advice is to click on the seller's store and look at all the 27" "other" monitors. The quick and easy way to tell the difference between the Catleaps is the lower priced one is almost always the non-speaker version, then the speaker version, then the multi-input version. People may have to do some self-discovery in some cases by referencing the models on eBay with the manufacturer's website models. Those are all broken out by model in the fourth post. If someone still cannot figure it out then they should post their question here.

As far as the hertz - I will make that change to the form, but to me it is only relevant if owners post specifics in their post that should be linked in the spreadsheet. Otherwise, the information is useless in my opinion.


----------



## the337

thanks scribblydagreat,

i look forward to your reply.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

I asked green sum if its possible to check for dead pixels before shipping. Its an extra $60 and 2-4 extra days.
I am kind of wishing I would have taken that option now as my nerves are killing me about getting a flawed panel.
I will post my info on form when monitor arrives.


----------



## Mr Ripper

I've had confirmation that it has indeed been delivered.

I'm at work late tonight so I've got to wait about 5 hours from now to see what condition it is in. Hopefully the pixels etc are ok









I'm amazed at the delivery speed and that I had no customs delay (UK). I ordered a clutch from the US and it was in customs for 10 days probably due to having no papers filled out.


----------



## bhamhawker

Got confirmation of shipment yesterday from red-cap. Should be here in 2-3 days, per FedEx.

I'm a little worried on my paypal payment, because it hasn't shown up on my bank account yet, but that has nothing to do with the seller or the monitor.


----------



## Somenamehere

My panel just arrived from green-sum and its 100% working with no stuck or dead pixels. The stand is really cheap like everyone has been saying, but my wall mount should be here tomorrow. Packaging was great it came in a big box covered in those giant air pockets.

Obligatory crappy cell phone picture.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> My panel just arrived from green-sum and its 100% working with no stuck or dead pixels. The stand is really cheap like everyone has been saying, but my wall mount should be here tomorrow. Packaging was great it came in a big box covered in those giant air pockets.
> Obligatory crappy cell phone picture.


Thanks for adding to the spreadsheet!


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> The lean for me was not due to the connection between the stand arm and the base - it was due to how the stand is designed. It really isn't designed to handle a monitor this wide (it is very heavy - just wide of course) so it will tilt and wobble.


Sorry to be a pain but is there any reason why one could not slip something under the base of the stand to level it out? Or does the monitor's mounting point act like a fulcrum and make it tilt regardless of the angle of the base?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> Sorry to be a pain but is there any reason why one could not slip something under the base of the stand to level it out? Or does the monitor's mounting point act like a fulcrum and make it tilt regardless of the angle of the base?


No problem! I will have my second one here shortly (where is that darn mailman?) and will confirm, but I think it is the fulcrum issue due to the mount location being in the lower third of the monitor. I will post pics once it comes in.


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *three0duster*
> 
> I placed my order on Saturday night from Green-sum. Does anyone know how long it usually takes for this seller to issue a tracking number? I remember one of the sellers only shipped 2 or 3 days out of the week. Anyone willing to share their experience with this seller?


I ordered mine Saturday also. Sent him an email since in Korea Monday is over with. He responded and told me because it was ordered on the weekend it would probably be in Monday's orders, but again, Monday is over with in Korea. The only reason i was hoping it would ship today is because then more than likely I would have it by the weekend, but now it's looking like next week. Oh well, still a great deal.


----------



## araman

I keep hearing about getting another stand for this to account for tilt but have yet to see a completed example. Yes, I see the wall mount example, but that's not an option for me as my desk is not against a wall and needs to stand on a flat surface. Any of these that someone could share their experience and completed example with?

Thanks.


----------



## Demented

OK people, mine was delivered a little bit ago, and after unpacking it, finding its surface undamaged from the transcontinental trip, hooking it up, and getting ready for the big moment...

I was a bit worried. You see, I had disconnected my two monitors on DVI. I forgot to disconnect my Display Port connected monitor, so it seemed all was well when it booted with the DP monitor as the main, with the Catleap extended. So I shut down, disconnected the DP monitor, and booted again.










My screen had all of these little sparkling pixels. You could see it was fine image, other than the pixels sparkling all over the place. I checked the refresh rate, and it was at 60Hz. So I shut down, made sure I had no unused cables causing any type of interference, and ensured the DVI cable was securely attached.

Upon my next boot...

I was blessed with a flawless screen, with no dead pixels! I can definitely see that gaming will be much more what I'm looking for with a single glorious display like this.

While it came physically undamaged, the stand is utter crap, so I am doubly glad I had ordered that 3M stand from ebay. I love this monitor, and it sucks so bad that I need to sleep very soon, so I won't have much time with it now.









I am, however, off for the next three days, so I plan on getting everything squared away and very acquainted with this display.









Now, pics:

Nicely bubblewrapped with no signs of external damage.




I guess this is backlight bleed? I really don't care since I really don't 'see' it/ I'm focused on...well...whatever I'm focused on.
















Overall opinion: Go for it! No sacrifice, no victory! No risk, no reward!

Over the top? Maybe, but I just saved a lot of money by switching to Geico er Korean imports.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

^^^^^ AWESOME! Thanks for posting.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> ^^^^^ AWESOME! Thanks for posting.


NP, thanks for having the club!!


----------



## Somenamehere

Demented what is the max OC you can get ? My monitor seems to have a max of 66Hz. Starting to wonder if only the early monitors could get to 100Hz.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Demented what is the max OC you can get ? My monitor seems to have a max of 66Hz. Starting to wonder if only the early monitors could get to 100Hz.


I haven't even tried to do anything. CCC says my max is 60Hz. I need to sleep now, so when I'm off tomorrow morning, I might dive in then.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

NO SLEEP FOR YOU! OC OC OC! Looking forward to your results.


----------



## Justin Cider

Received mine from dream-seller today,perfect!It was bubble wrapped no dead pixels and no tilt to the right.I will post some unboxing pics later.Best deal for $400 around!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


----------



## Grogan5000

I got one of these Catleaps from Green-Sum, packed very well and declared for customs as asked. Good screen and thanks for the calibrated profiles. Anyone else think the screen is hard plastic instead of glass? When i tap it with knuckle seems like plastic, hope not for scratch resistance.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Once you guys get some pics up (if you plan on it) please post to the spreadsheet. It really does help others.

Thanks

EDIT:

MAILMAN IS WALKING MINE UP AS I TYPE (well in the elevator!)!!! Initial pics soon . . . wall mounting later on.


----------



## BBGunWB

Wife called to torture me with the fact that the screen is sitting in the house all nicely bubble wrapped. Now I have to jones for the next 4 hours...... Hmmmm... suddenly I feel a little ill....

BB


----------



## Murderous Moppet

I'm seconds away from buying one of these. What carrier does green-sum use to ship? I am concerned that I will be paying $100 in brokerage at the door if they send it UPS or FedEX.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> OK people, mine was delivered a little bit ago, and after unpacking it, finding its surface undamaged from the transcontinental trip, hooking it up, and getting ready for the big moment...
> I was a bit worried. You see, I had disconnected my two monitors on DVI. I forgot to disconnect my Display Port connected monitor, so it seemed all was well when it booted with the DP monitor as the main, with the Catleap extended. So I shut down, disconnected the DP monitor, and booted again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My screen had all of these little sparkling pixels. You could see it was fine image, other than the pixels sparkling all over the place. I checked the refresh rate, and it was at 60Hz. So I shut down, made sure I had no unused cables causing any type of interference, and ensured the DVI cable was securely attached.
> Upon my next boot...
> I was blessed with a flawless screen, with no dead pixels! I can definitely see that gaming will be much more what I'm looking for with a single glorious display like this.
> While it came physically undamaged, the stand is utter crap, so I am doubly glad I had ordered that 3M stand from ebay. I love this monitor, and it sucks so bad that I need to sleep very soon, so I won't have much time with it now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am, however, off for the next three days, so I plan on getting everything squared away and very acquainted with this display.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, pics:
> Nicely bubblewrapped with no signs of external damage.
> 
> 
> I guess this is backlight bleed? I really don't care since I really don't 'see' it/ I'm focused on...well...whatever I'm focused on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overall opinion: Go for it! No sacrifice, no victory! No risk, no reward!
> Over the top? Maybe, but I just saved a lot of money by switching to Geico er Korean imports.


which Software is that to check monitor colors?


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> which Software is that to check monitor colors?


It's in the OP of the other thread.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Murderous Moppet*
> 
> I'm seconds away from buying one of these. What carrier does green-sum use to ship? I am concerned that I will be paying $100 in brokerage at the door if they send it UPS or FedEX.


I believe he uses Fed-Ex. dreamseller uses EMS which is then handled by the USPS here in the states not sure about Canada.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> It's in the OP of the other thread.


Added to post four! Thanks for a reminder!


----------



## BiNiaRiS

I got mine in about an hour ago. I tried using toasty's app but I'm not sure if I did it right. I added a custom resolution and mirrored all the same data from the one that is listed there by default. I set it to 75hz and rebooted. I got a black screen once I was into windows. I turned the monitor off then back on and got a rainbow of colors. I then had to boot into safemode to change it back.

Does someone have a step by step walk through on how to change the refresh rate on an AMD/ATI card? I'm on a 6870.


----------



## ibtar

I'd recommend keeping the standard 60hz resolution on the display rather than just forcing one single 75hz or higher setting in ToastyX's application so you can just escape out of it if it shows black...

You can add up to four different settings in his application.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Second one arrived here are some quickie pics. I am little concerned - this panel appears to be different than my first panel. At least the connectors are different and it is wired slightly differently than my first. Working on the wall mount and will post comparison pics in a few minutes.

*Same great packaging by dreamseller*



*Funny this one leans to the left - not right. Although I can press it down on the right to get it level. Any bump makes it go off kilter again.*





*Better close up shots of the internal connections - first is brightness, etc. second is back panel hookups*







*Compared to my original panel*



This has me worried.

*Back of new panel*



More in a few.


----------



## ibtar

I'm guessing those are for the speakers? Did you order one with, and one without?

edit; after looking at some of your other pictures from disassembly, i'm guessing not. heh.


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibtar*
> 
> I'd recommend keeping the standard 60hz resolution on the display rather than just forcing one single 75hz or higher setting in ToastyX's application so you can just escape out of it if it shows black...
> You can add up to four different settings in his application.


i added 3 extra. 75hz 75hz and 85hz (and left the default 60hz). when i reboot i get a black screen still.

i'd just like to see screenshots of the numbers, etc to make sure i'm not doing something wrong. there's really very little info on how to do it properly.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiNiaRiS*
> 
> i added 3 extra. 75hz 75hz and 85hz (and left the default 60hz). when i reboot i get a black screen still.
> i'd just like to see screenshots of the numbers, etc to make sure i'm not doing something wrong. there's really very little info on how to do it properly.


Here's how I've used it to add custom refresh rates in the past:

1. Highlight the standard 59.9 or 60hz setting, hit the edit button, then select "copy".
2. Press the "Add" button, then click paste, and change the refresh rate setting at the bottom to whatever you desire.
3. Hit OK, then restart.

That's it. The custom resolutions should be selectable in the regular windows screen resolution options after that.


----------



## Z06sc

Fedex tracking number already. Should be here this week.

Ordered From: dcsamsungmall
Price Shipped: $372.00
Ordered On: 3-11-2012
Shipped ?: Yes (3-12-2012)
Tracking Numbers: Yes (Fedex 3 day) Will Arrive on 3/15/12

Ill be sure to update with Pictures of Unboxing, Set up and Overall. Maybe do a video if I feel up to it.


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibtar*
> 
> Here's how I've used it to add custom refresh rates in the past:
> 1. Highlight the standard 59.9 or 60hz setting, hit the edit button, then select "copy".
> 2. Press the "Add" button, then click paste, and change the refresh rate setting at the bottom to whatever you desire.
> 3. Hit OK, then restart.
> That's it. The custom resolutions should be selectable in the regular windows screen resolution options after that.


maybe my monitor is just a crap one. just tried your way. added 75...black screen. then 72...black screen. 70...black screen. 65 worked but i don't see any benefit to running it at 65 over 60.

if i add even one custom res/refresh rate in toast's app and reboot it forces the new one so i then have to reboot into safe mode to change it if it doesn't work. that doesn't seem to be the case with others.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiNiaRiS*
> 
> maybe my monitor is just a crap one. just tried your way. added 75...black screen. then 72...black screen. 70...black screen. 65 worked but i don't see any benefit to running it at 65 over 60.
> if i add even one custom res/refresh rate in toast's app and reboot it forces the new one so i then have to reboot into safe mode to change it if it doesn't work. that doesn't seem to be the case with others.


I'm starting to think there's some kind of difference between models with and without speakers.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibtar*
> 
> Here's how I've used it to add custom refresh rates in the past:
> 1. Highlight the standard 59.9 or 60hz setting, hit the edit button, then select "copy".
> 2. Press the "Add" button, then click paste, and change the refresh rate setting at the bottom to whatever you desire.
> 3. Hit OK, then restart.
> That's it. The custom resolutions should be selectable in the regular windows screen resolution options after that.


I managed to get 65hz with stock timings with my 6990. Shows up in CCC and windows too. I put profiles in for 72hz and 80hz but those dont appear in CCC and aren't recognised for some reason. I'd like to know if I need to tweak the timings so something the software will accept. Any tips bro?


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibtar*
> 
> I'm starting to think there's some kind of difference between models with and without speakers.


mine is the SE without speakers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> I managed to get 65hz with stock timings with my 6990. Shows up in CCC and windows too. I put profiles in for 72hz and 80hz but those dont appear in CCC and aren't recognised for some reason. I'd like to know if I need to tweak the timings so something the software will accept. Any tips bro?


that is the kind of info i'm looking for as well.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiNiaRiS*
> 
> mine is the SE without speakers.


Yeah from what I can tell I'm not so sure anyone who has a model without speakers has achieved higher refresh rates but I haven't confirmed that yet.

edit; If ScribbyDaGreat could confirm whether or not his new display hits higher refresh rates that would help this situation out a lot as I know he has one with speakers that he has already successfully set at 97hz or somewhere around there.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Do you guys notice an actual difference between 60hz and 97-100hz?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Do you guys notice an actual difference between 60hz and 97-100hz?


I haven't yet.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I haven't yet.


Could you test your second display (without speakers) to see if it hits higher refresh rates like the first one you bought?


----------



## alricking

How you guys get such low refresh rate? my gtx 9300 weak azz card able to get 97hz


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> How you guys get such low refresh rate? my gtx 9300 weak azz card able to get 97hz


Does your catleap have speakers?


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> How you guys get such low refresh rate? my gtx 9300 weak azz card able to get 97hz


you obviously haven't been following us at all. you bought a catleap with speakers. it seems like the SE models without speakers may not be capable of the higher refresh rates which is really disappointing...and a lot of people are gonna be pissed.

or it could be a video card issue. we're not sure.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

New monitor - no dead pixels - she's drop dead gorgeous as the first. *BUT . . . *

Ok so here I am going to confuse this whole issue of OC-ability on these monitors *A LOT*.

As I posted above I have a completely different panel setup in the new monitor I received today (both are with speakers.) I go to OC this new one - no dice. Nothing works at all above 60. I was trying to OC with all 4 monitors plugged in - see my setup pics below. Unplugging everything led me to a weird outcome that maybe someone with more knowledge of GPUs can answer.

The most powerful card I have in my work system at the moment (I am not ready for my 560 SLI water setup yet) is a GTS 250. Originally, I had no issues OCing my lower monitor (see pics below) and have 4 different custom rates installed.

So here is where it gets a little weird for me. With the new monitor plugged into the second output on the 250 I have no issues (just cannot get above 60 even with all other monitors unplugged) and it shows up just fine - and very pretty. When I plug the new one into the first output (the one I have OCed my older monitor on) the new monitor goes nuts or simply shows all black. Here's my question, when you establish custom refresh rates do they "hold" with the output on the GPU? If so, that would make sense as to why my new monitor will not work in the first output.

So overall here is where I think this is at - at least with what I have in hand - there are two different panel designs (or more) being shipped. One that can be OCed (like the fuzzy pic above) and one that cannot be OCed (like the clear pic above). The difference in the two panels? No idea. What I do know for sure is they use two completely different plugs and boards. The monitor I can OC has dual plug-ins and the monitor I cannot OC has a single plug-in. Of course, we won't know for sure until we get a bunch of people opening their monitors to check.

On with some more pics!s

*Shot of the new one just plugged in to make sure it work - not calibrated or brightness adjusted (it was at max.)*



*Here is the wall mount set up.*



*After color calibration and brightness adjustment. Bottom monitor is set at 95hz in this pic - top is at 60hz. I seriously could not tell the difference (I know this was a static shot so should I be able to tell?)*



*My final set-up.*


----------



## BiNiaRiS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Ok so here I am going to confuse this whole issue of OC-ability on these monitors *A LOT*.
> 
> As I posted above I have a completely different panel setup in the new monitor I received today (both are with speakers.) I go to OC this new one - no dice. Nothing works at all above 60. I was trying to OC with all 4 monitors plugged in - see my setup pics below. Unplugging everything led me to a weird outcome that maybe someone with more knowledge of GPUs can answer.


BOTH with speakers. damn, that does confuse the problem. would have been nice if it was as simple as the speaker ones OC and the speakerless ones don't.

in the end i'm happy. i've been living with 60hz for years and years. even if no one had been able to get pas 60hz i would have still bought the monitor. i don't game competitively anymore so it's not a huge issue for me.


----------



## Catleap001

I ordered in the afternoon on March 6th from Green-sum. I have no dead or stuck pixels, however I will probably get another monitor stand as this one can't be adjusted and is rather wobbly. Other then that I am blown away by the upgrade from my old Dell 2405.


----------



## larrydavid

I hope we can determine if there's some indicator somewhere on the models which will do higher refresh rates. Perhaps the serial number is different or there's some designation on the box.


----------



## stblazer

Quote:


> *Here is the wall mount set up.*


That's exactly the type of wall mount I've been looking for. Can you please share where you purchased them?


----------



## minnus

I just received mine from redcap today. 1 Dead pixel, one Stuck pixel.

Anyone have any secrets to get them out?


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> New monitor - no dead pixels - she's drop dead gorgeous as the first. *BUT . . . *
> 
> Ok so here I am going to confuse this whole issue of OC-ability on these monitors *A LOT*.
> 
> As I posted above I have a completely different panel setup in the new monitor I received today (both are with speakers.) I go to OC this new one - no dice. Nothing works at all above 60. I was trying to OC with all 4 monitors plugged in - see my setup pics below. Unplugging everything led me to a weird outcome that maybe someone with more knowledge of GPUs can answer.
> 
> The most powerful card I have in my work system at the moment (I am not ready for my 560 SLI water setup yet) is a GTS 250. Originally, I had no issues OCing my lower monitor (see pics below) and have 4 different custom rates installed.
> 
> So here is where it gets a little weird for me. With the new monitor plugged into the second output on the 250 I have no issues (just cannot get above 60 even with all other monitors unplugged) and it shows up just fine - and very pretty. When I plug the new one into the first output (the one I have OCed my older monitor on) the new monitor goes nuts or simply shows all black. Here's my question, when you establish custom refresh rates do they "hold" with the output on the GPU? If so, that would make sense as to why my new monitor will not work in the first output.
> 
> So overall here is where I think this is at - at least with what I have in hand - there are two different panel designs (or more) being shipped. One that can be OCed (like the *fuzzy pic* above) and one that cannot be OCed (like the *clear pic* above). The difference in the two panels? No idea. What I do know for sure is they use *two completely different plugs and boards*. The monitor I can OC has dual plug-ins and the monitor I cannot OC has a single plug-in. Of course, we won't know for sure until we get a bunch of people opening their monitors to check.


What pics and what plugs are you referring to?


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> I hope we can determine if there's some indicator somewhere on the models which will do higher refresh rates. Perhaps the serial number is different or there's some designation on the box.


I'd like to know this also, maybe ScribbyDaGreat could help us out with that by posting his sn's or something.


----------



## minnus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> I just received mine from redcap today. 1 Dead pixel, one Stuck pixel.
> Anyone have any secrets to get them out?


It also can't go above 60Hz. Seems like I lost the lotto. Oh well!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> What pics and what plugs are you referring to?


Here's what I am referring to:

Top pic is the (crappy) pic of the monitor I can OC with ease. It has a two-prong plug in and different board than my new one (plus the brightness, etc. wiring is plugged in from the right side of the panel. My new monitor has this plug in on the left side.) Bottom pics are the new monitor - single plug, different PCB.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ibtar*
> 
> I'd like to know this also, maybe ScribbyDaGreat could help us out with that by posting his sn's or something.




My gut is telling me there will not be any indicator as to whether a particular model will or will not OC. I think the manufacturer is interchanging panels or has since the first run of the monitors and is now using a different panel setup (clearly something changed between the two I have.) My new one has what would appear to be a later SN than my first one. Monitor I can OC is LED2B - monitor I cannot is LED2C. We obviously need more info from other owners to try and figure this out.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> 
> 
> My gut is telling me there will not be any indicator as to whether a particular model will or will not OC. I think the manufacturer is interchanging panels or has since the first run of the monitors and is now using a different panel setup (clearly something changed between the two I have.) My new one has what would appear to be a later SN than my first one. Monitor I can OC is LED2B - monitor I cannot is LED2C. We obviously need more info from other owners to try and figure this out.


can't overclock serial 2C does not goes above 65hz


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> To the people complaining about the stand tilting to one side, can't you just stick a piece of folded paper or cardboard under one side of the base to level it out?


That won't stop it from wobbling.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> Yea using just a 6990, I'm getting the same flickering disco as you. In my case it doesnt flicker straight away, I need to reboot for program to kick in. It when it gets into windows it does it. I dont know but the second time I tried it, I rebooted to a completely black screen... I had to format and and now reinstalling all my apps...


Geez, you shouldn't have to reformat. You should be able to boot into safe mode or hook up your old monitor, then run the program and use the "Delete" button next to the monitor drop-down list to mark the monitor for removal, then click OK and reboot. That will reset the monitor to the default configuration.

It's also not supposed to boot into the new resolution unless you edited the first resolution instead of creating a new one, but I don't have control over which resolution the video driver chooses to use. The first detailed resolution in the list is supposed to be the default resolution, but the driver may have decided to go for the highest refresh rate instead.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Seems like an issue with ToastyX's program not supporting newer AMD cards. Can someone try ATI Tray Tools and see if the refresh rate forcer in that works ? http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=320467


There aren't any other programs that work for ATI/AMD cards except PowerStrip, but PowerStrip controls the hardware directly and doesn't have a way of telling Windows or the video driver about the new refresh rate, so that's not a good solution. My program just tells the video driver what resolutions to use with the monitor, independent of the video card, so there shouldn't be any compatibility problems. It looks like some of the catleaps just can't do higher refresh rates, and the video driver tried to use the new resolution when it shouldn't have, which is why people are having problems.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BiNiaRiS*
> 
> you obviously haven't been following us at all. you bought a catleap with speakers. it seems like the SE models without speakers may not be capable of the higher refresh rates which is really disappointing...and a lot of people are gonna be pissed.
> or it could be a video card issue. we're not sure.


Mine is the one without speakers, and I was the one that posted about getting 85 Hz.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> *Back of new panel*
> 
> 
> 
> More in a few.


Do you have the panel model listed on the sticker for each of these monitors?


----------



## civilsurvey

Has anyone been charged import duties on the delivery of their monitor? (To the US of A, that is.)


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> 
> 
> My gut is telling me there will not be any indicator as to whether a particular model will or will not OC. I think the manufacturer is interchanging panels or has since the first run of the monitors and is now using a different panel setup (clearly something changed between the two I have.) My new one has what would appear to be a later SN than my first one. Monitor I can OC is LED2B - monitor I cannot is LED2C. We obviously need more info from other owners to try and figure this out.


Thanks for info. If it ends up being the LED-B that can always overclock, I'm sure we can ask the sellers to sell us those while they last.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> *Here is the wall mount set up.*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's exactly the type of wall mount I've been looking for. Can you please share where you purchased them?
Click to expand...

Here you go - *CLICKY*


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> That won't stop it from wobbling.
> Geez, you shouldn't have to reformat. You should be able to boot into safe mode or hook up your old monitor, then run the program and use the "Delete" button next to the monitor drop-down list to mark the monitor for removal, then click OK and reboot. That will reset the monitor to the default configuration.
> It's also not supposed to boot into the new resolution unless you edited the first resolution instead of creating a new one, but I don't have control over which resolution the video driver chooses to use. The first detailed resolution in the list is supposed to be the default resolution, but the driver may have decided to go for the highest refresh rate instead.
> There aren't any other programs that work for ATI/AMD cards except PowerStrip, but PowerStrip controls the hardware directly and doesn't have a way of telling Windows or the video driver about the new refresh rate, so that's not a good solution. My program just tells the video driver what resolutions to use with the monitor, independent of the video card, so there shouldn't be any compatibility problems. It looks like some of the catleaps just can't do higher refresh rates, and the video driver tried to use the new resolution when it shouldn't have, which is why people are having problems.
> Mine is the one without speakers, and I was the one that posted about getting 85 Hz.
> Do you have the panel model listed on the sticker for each of these monitors?


I don't have a good shot of the first one. I am hoping that others will post up so I won't have to dismantle my setup! I will if we don't get some answers soon. I honestly didn't think to shoot detailed pics of the back of my first panel since at that time I didn't know I would be getting a second.

Please, please, please - someone else shoot some pics of theirs I seriously don't want to take them all down!


----------



## Geglamash

I personally think the model numbering scheme and whatever else is irrelevant in getting monitor that can hit higher refresh ratings.
These are lower end manufacturers, and I believe they use a variety of internals depending on time of manufacturing and what not.
Luck of the draw I suppose.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> I personally think the model numbering scheme and whatever else is irrelevant in getting monitor that can hit higher refresh ratings.
> These are lower end manufacturers, and I believe they use a variety of internals depending on time of manufacturing and what not.
> Luck of the draw I suppose.


Could be just that random. What we do know for sure is they are shipping the same model numbers with slightly different internals.

EDIT: At least the Catleap w/speakers.

BTW I still LOVE the new one since I really am not seeing a difference between the two. 60hz on top 95hz below for now and I cannot tell so I must have vision issues!


----------



## larrydavid

Everyone: If you could post a picture of the serial/model number on the outside of your box along with if your monitor overclocks, it'd be helpful.

Thanks.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Could be just that random. What we do know for sure is they are shipping the same model numbers with slightly different internals.
> 
> EDIT: At least the Catleap w/speakers.
> 
> BTW I still LOVE the new one since I really am not seeing a difference between the two. 60hz on top 95hz below for now and I cannot tell so I must have vision issues!


For normal desktop, differences in refresh rate won't make a difference its in games and actual motion where the 97hz will see a difference. In desktop mode you may notice a difference in mouse movement or movement of open windows but it wont be drastic.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> My gut is telling me there will not be any indicator as to whether a particular model will or will not OC. I think the manufacturer is interchanging panels or has since the first run of the monitors and is now using a different panel setup (clearly something changed between the two I have.) My new one has what would appear to be a later SN than my first one. Monitor I can OC is LED2B - monitor I cannot is LED2C. We obviously need more info from other owners to try and figure this out.


Mine says SE2B in the serial number, and it works at higher refresh rates, so I'm guessing the 2B is the important part. LED is the one with speakers and SE is the one without speakers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I don't have a good shot of the first one. I am hoping that others will post up so I won't have to dismantle my setup! I will if we don't get some answers soon. I honestly didn't think to shoot detailed pics of the back of my first panel since at that time I didn't know I would be getting a second.
> 
> Please, please, please - someone else shoot some pics of theirs I seriously don't want to take them all down!


What's the panel model of the second one? I was planning to open mine when I get a stand, but I haven't ordered one yet.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> For normal desktop, differences in refresh rate won't make a difference its in games and actual motion where the 97hz will see a difference. In desktop mode you may notice a difference in mouse movement or movement of open windows but it wont be drastic.


Okie dokie - running Skyrim now to check.

EDIT: Couldn't really see a difference since my office computer will only hit about 60FPS anyway. Colors were slightly off from one to the other, but I read somewhere that it is difficult to balance the color between two monitors that are on the same card or something to that effect.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Okie dokie - running Skyrim now to check.


if you were to run vsync on you will notice that if you can hit 97fps constant then it should be a bit smoother than the usual 60hz/fps. Hence the 120hz advantage is that it nearly doubles the frames then a usual v-synced 60hz monitor. another instance but bad example is the 120hz tv's i know they aren't really 120hz but it shows smoother movement as supposed to non 120hz tv's. At least thats how i see it i have no personal experience on 120hz monitors but the concept should be the same.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Cheers ToastyX, I figured it our in the end by adding new resolutions instead of editing the default one, I have managed to get up to 67hz using your program, so it does work for later AMD cards. I can get it to recognise 70hz but need help with the timings, I've tried your timings for 85hz and no go.


----------



## bQvle

ScribbyDaGreat: Did you try to swap the cabels, to check if its not just a flaw in the dual-dvi cabel?

I ordered mine saturday, now im getting REALLY worried! 60hz is what kept me from buying these 27"s. im using a 120hz monitor now, and this was the best news ever for me.
[email protected]!

but now... im about to cry! TT!

ill be so dissapointed if i cant go above 60


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Could be just that random. What we do know for sure is they are shipping the same model numbers with slightly different internals.
> 
> EDIT: At least the Catleap w/speakers.
> 
> BTW I still LOVE the new one since I really am not seeing a difference between the two. 60hz on top 95hz below for now and I cannot tell so I must have vision issues!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat: Did you try to swap the cabels, to check if its not just a flaw in the dual-dvi cabel?
> I ordered mine saturday, now im getting REALLY worried! 60hz is what kept me from buying these 27"s. im using a 120hz monitor now, and this was the best news ever for me.
> [email protected]!
> but now... im about to cry! TT!
> ill be so dissapointed if i cant go above 60


Disappointed at a sub $400 S-IPS 1440P monitor?
OCN's expectations are too damn high!


----------



## larrydavid

My new mailman blows. He simply put a slip in my mailbox with the mail saying "Sorry we missed you". He didn't even come to the door -- I had someone home waiting for it.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat: Did you try to swap the cabels, to check if its not just a flaw in the dual-dvi cabel?
> I ordered mine saturday, now im getting REALLY worried! 60hz is what kept me from buying these 27"s. im using a 120hz monitor now, and this was the best news ever for me.
> [email protected]!
> but now... im about to cry! TT!
> ill be so dissapointed if i cant go above 60


It's not the cable - I used 4 different ones same result. Once you see it you will love it.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It's not the cable - I used 4 different ones same result. Once you see it you will love it.


Im really an addict of high refresh-rate.

Ive seen the Apple and Dells with this panel before, i agree the image is awesome, but what keept me back was the input-lag and low refresh-rate, if they wen't to 100hz i would have already owned one of them. even if it had cost me 1200$

Edit: try run some elder games, Quake 3/live, Counter-Strike where you get above your refresh-rate in fps, then enable V-sync. the picture should be VERY NOTICEABLY more smooth, especially when panning the camera around. also on desktop, grap an open folder, drag it in circels.
60hz = flickery, almost like you see many windows.
~100hz = you feel like you only see one window, not flickering around. (sweet smoothnesssss)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Disappointed at a sub $400 S-IPS 1440P monitor?
> OCN's expectations are too damn high!


Well, i just registered, so you cant really call me OCN









also, as you read above, i didnt buy this because of the price-tag!
If this was priced 1000$ I'd still buy it, if 100hz was garrentied.


----------



## stryker7314

I have an SE2C, and was able to do 97hz with powerstrip. I noticed the difference immediately when playing BF3, I'm used to 120hz and its much smoother at 97 from 60.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> I have an SE2C, and was able to do 97hz with powerstrip. I noticed the difference immediately when playing BF3, I'm used to 120hz and its much smoother at 97 from 60.


And the mystery thickens.


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> I have an SE2C, and was able to do 97hz with powerstrip. I noticed the difference immediately when playing BF3, I'm used to 120hz and its much smoother at 97 from 60.


This is probably asking alot, but can you open your monitor and take some pics ?

Ill have mine open tomorrow when I have to remove the back for my wall mount.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> I have an SE2C, and was able to do 97hz with powerstrip. I noticed the difference immediately when playing BF3, I'm used to 120hz and its much smoother at 97 from 60.


do you use Powerstrip because Custom resolution didnt work?

Did you try to add the custom timings someone wrote, should be able to get you to 100 w/o powerstrip.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

I think we need everyone that can achieve higher hz to post up the timings they are using, I got up to 67hz stock timings and BF3 already feels alot smoother than 60hz. If I try any other timings, the screen wont accept it.

KGO


----------



## tinklepee

Can't get past 67Hz here either.


----------



## Justin Cider

Nothing past 67Hz here either my serial is C2 as well


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I cannot get past 65 on my new one.


----------



## AMGRoadster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Catleap001*
> 
> I ordered in the afternoon on March 6th from Green-sum. I have no dead or stuck pixels, however I will probably get another monitor stand as this one can't be adjusted and is rather wobbly. Other then that I am blown away by the upgrade from my old Dell 2405.


F' You! I ordered on the 3rd and it did not ship for ~ 1 week and is now sitting in NYC. Okay really I am happy for you but am not so happy I have yet to receive my monitor.


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Scribbly is that using ur 580 or an AMD card?


----------



## necriss

wow so the non-speaker catleaps can't pass 65-67 hz?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> wow so the non-speaker catleaps can't pass 65-67 hz?


My new speaker Catleap cannot as well. See all the posts on page three about this.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> Scribbly is that using ur 580 or an AMD card?


This is with a GTS 250. I haven't tried it with my monster cards yet. This is also with all 4 monitors connected or with it solo. It's the panel - it is completely different (from the PCB at least) than the monitor I can OC.


----------



## necriss

Can everyone please post what refresh rate they can achieve with the following info

*Catleap Model/Serial* -
*Graphics Card* -
*Method of Forcing Refresh Rate* -
*Refresh Rate Achieved* -
*Purchased From* -

like so

*Catleap Model/Serial* - Catleap with Speakers
*Graphics Card* - Nvidia GTX 580
*Method of Forcing Refresh Rate* - Nvidia Control Panel
*Refresh Rate Achieved* - 100hz
*Purchased From* - Dreamseller

would help a lot thanks


----------



## ttoadd.nz

Catleap Model/Serial - Q270SE2C2LP0134 (non speaker)
Graphics Card - HD6990
Method of Forcing Refresh Rate - ToastyX utiltiy
Refresh Rate Achieved - 67hz
Timings - Stock
Purchased From - dreamseller


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> This is with a GTS 250. I haven't tried it with my monster cards yet. This is also with all 4 monitors connected or with it solo. It's the panel - it is completely different (from the PCB at least) than the monitor I can OC.


I doubt the panel is different -- it's not like there's another LG 27" panel they can use. I'd imagine the difference is in the supporting electronics.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> I doubt the panel is different -- it's not like there's another LG 27" panel they can use. I'd imagine the difference is in the supporting electronics.


When I say panel I mean exactly what I have been posting all day - the connections and PCB. I have a feeling those changes are what are causing the non-OC issue.


----------



## necriss

So the likely scenario is the newer revisions have "cheaper" circuitry which isn't capable of high hz. ToastyX will have some pics shortly.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> When I say panel I mean exactly what I have been posting all day - the connections and PCB. I have a feeling those changes are what are causing the non-OC issue.


Yeah -- whatever LCD controller converts the dual-link DVI data to panel is probably limited to 65-67hz in some panels, where as a different model is used on the Catleaps that accept 100hz.

It'll be a real bummer if there's no pattern to which monitors can support higher refresh rates. There's been reports of both the SE2 and SE3 doing high refresh rates.


----------



## Volvo

What kind of a name is Yamakasi Catleap. :3


----------



## eduardmc

i'm not down about the lower hz and this is coming from a monitor with 120hz. Just the resolution jump and having such an excellent monitor is worth the premium. Either way noone know if the higher hz would actually damage the monitor in long usage.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Yeah -- whatever LCD controller converts the dual-link DVI data to panel is probably limited to 65-67hz in some panels, where as a different model is used on the Catleaps that accept 100hz.
> It'll be a real bummer if there's no pattern to which monitors can support higher refresh rates. There's been reports of both the SE2 and SE3 doing high refresh rates.


It appears it may be random, which will suck for all prospective buyers.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> i'm not down about the lower hz and this is coming from a monitor with 120hz. Just the resolution jump and having such an excellent monitor is worth the premium. Either way noone know if the higher hz would actually damage the monitor in long usage.


To be honest these things are just plain sexy especially at this price point. The OC thing is all of our collective OCD issue! MOAR POWA!!!!


----------



## necriss

edit - oops, teardown already done.

Can someone please take some detailed pics of the internal circuitry and LG panel serial no.s from both OC'able and NON-OC models ?


----------



## Mr Ripper

I've had a quick play with my monitor. Happy with the fact it is perfect in regards to having no dead pixels. Seem to only be able to get 65hz though but only really quickly tried some settings.

I'll try and put better details up tomorrow. Time for sleep.


----------



## araman

Has anyone tried to ask a seller that if they buy, they want the 'B' variant from the seller's stock?


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Has anyone tried to ask a seller that if they buy, they want the 'B' variant from the seller's stock?


Not worth doing at this point. There's not enough to data to show getting either variant guarantees the better revision with respect to refresh rates.


----------



## Demented

EDIT Don't know why I had anything quoted. Tired I guess.









Man, I can't wait to get done work so I can come back home and see what I can do with this baby. Such a beautiful screen!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Actually from everything posted so far, there have been no B monitors that have not been oc-able. Whereas all the C monitors are un-oc-able (word?) minus the one guy who said he pulled 100hz through Powerstrip with it...and we need a lot more info from him regarding this before we can change our collective judgement based on the info we have been presented with so far.

It does appear as though when going from the B to the C models, the manufacturer started using a different controller. And it may have been pure luck and a fluke that one person who had a C labelled monitor may have actually had a B controller in his monitor...just because they had some extra controllers laying around that had not been installed and they didn't want to throw it out or revert the serial numbering scheme for it.

But B's look to be good. C's look bad...with further investigation required. I wonder if the tempered glass ones are B's or C's.







I'm really hoping the tempered glass ones sold less and therefore are still using the old controllers before being phased out to C's because my monitor doesn't arrive for another day or two. And my primary reason for buying it is the 100hz. And yes I realize it wasn't advertised as 100hz but it was, at the time, a certain thing, as everyone on ocn was able to do it on nvidia cards.

UPDATE: The tempered glass theory will be neat. I just checked sales comparisons and green-sum sold just 9 tempered glass models since posting it. Compare this to 161 of the non-tempered glass model sold in about the same time. If the same sales trend goes for the others, and they're B series, then there's still some hope. I shall report as soon as mine arrives. Which will probably happen by wednesday.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Here's what I am referring to:
> 
> Top pic is the (crappy) pic of the monitor I can OC with ease. It has a two-prong plug in and different board than my new one (plus the brightness, etc. wiring is plugged in from the right side of the panel. My new monitor has this plug in on the left side.) Bottom pics are the new monitor - single plug, different PCB.


This might be the controller board of 100hz catleap, judging by the cabling anyway. PDF specs say no OSD, only brightness +/-
Although its only rated at 60hz so who knows, would love a tear down to see if its the same thing.

http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/DS-NT09S-R00_27Jun10%5B2%5D_ICS.pdf


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> This might be the controller board of 100hz catleap, judging by the cabling anyway. PDF specs say no OSD, only brightness +/-
> Although its only rated at 60hz so who knows, would love a tear down to see if its the same thing.


Good thinking -- perhaps if we verify the controller used in the 100hz capable models, we can order them separately and replace them 60hz limited ones..


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> PC Settings:
> The PC needs to be set to an appropriate graphics mode that has the same resolution with the LCD panel to have clear screen
> image. And the vertical refresh rate should be set to one of 56~75Hz, non - interlaced signal.


Well that board can do 75hz apparently, so hopefully its the same one.


----------



## BBGunWB

Man! Took longer to take pics than to set up!

Will not bother posting unboxing pics, they can all be found here.

No dark or bright pixels. Perfect panel.
A touch of backlight bleed at top center, only due to the frame being a tad too tight there. I can make it go away by prying the frame some. Doesn't bother me so far for the price.
No perceptable tilt to the stand, although a ruler shows 1/16th variance left to right (see unboxing pics).
There is definitely a green tint to it. I used Lightrooms neutral grey background stretched across both monitors (other one is U2412M) and kicked the green gamma down by .05 and the blue brightness up by a few percent to get it to match. Am planning on borrowing a friend's X-rite Colormunki to calibrate both.

Not gonna bother to overclock. Incredibly happy with the purchase as is.

At any rate, my desk before:









My desk after:









Will fill out the form later. Gotta run now.

BB


----------



## ttoadd.nz

OK gents, lets see the PCB of your 100hz catleaps!
KGO!


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ttoadd.nz*
> 
> OK gents, lets see the PCB of your 100hz catleaps!
> KGO!


I feel bad, I think scribby is the one that's going to have tare down his monitor again.

If it is just the PCB ill definitely buy it and replace the one in my monitor, assuming they are not ridiculously expensive.


----------



## sh1v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Thanks for info. If it ends up being the LED-B that can always overclock, I'm sure we can ask the sellers to sell us those while they last.


mine cant oc and its C variant as well


----------



## Citra

So $450 shipped? Also, where are these purchased?

Edit: Never mind, I found it.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> I have an SE2C, and was able to do 97hz with powerstrip. I noticed the difference immediately when playing BF3, I'm used to 120hz and its much smoother at 97 from 60.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> do you use Powerstrip because Custom resolution didnt work?
> Did you try to add the custom timings someone wrote, should be able to get you to 100 w/o powerstrip.


That's correct, I used powerstrip, but I don't think it actually worked now, after doing a side by side with my 120hz Samsung S23A700D set to 100hz, the Catleap was definitely not as smooth, leading me to believe powerstrip is not actually forcing the 97hz refresh rate.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> That's correct, I used powerstrip, but I don't think it actually worked now, after doing a side by side with my 120hz Samsung S23A700D set to 100hz, the Catleap was definitely not as smooth, leading me to believe powerstrip is not actually forcing the 97hz refresh rate.


Does ToastyX's program work to get you 85hz through the ATI driver?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> That's correct, I used powerstrip, but I don't think it actually worked now, after doing a side by side with my 120hz Samsung S23A700D set to 100hz, the Catleap was definitely not as smooth, leading me to believe powerstrip is not actually forcing the 97hz refresh rate.


Turn vsync on and see what fps you max out at. that's your actual refresh rate.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Does ToastyX's program work to get you 85hz through the ATI driver?


No it didn't work, it only got me to 67.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Turn vsync on and see what fps you max out at. that's your actual refresh rate.


bsod when I mess with video settings in BF3 when using powerstrip to enforce refresh rate.

I'm pretty sure my 97hz statement is false now which is not good cause I pretty much bought this for the overclockability.







I'm going to have to either make a special order and sell this one at a loss, or wait to see what comes of those control boards, or find someone who can overclock theirs and doesnt care for it and pay them for a trade.


----------



## araman

It looks like with Stryker's debunk there that the B/C variant hypothesis holds up. I haven't seen one person who has a 'C' say they can get it past 67hz, so I think we're cooking with fire here.


----------



## Somenamehere

Anyone have some websites with good high res 2560 x 1440 wallpapers?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> It looks like with Stryker's debunk there that the B/C variant hypothesis holds up. I haven't seen one person who has a 'C' say they can get it past 67hz, so I think we're cooking with fire here.


Yeah. All I'm really hoping for now is which controller they use in the tempered glass models, and more importantly whether the multi-input model uses an OC'able one as it's gotta be different from the other 2 regardless, as it's...you know...multi-input with a built in scaler.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> Man! Took longer to take pics than to set up!
> Will not bother posting unboxing pics, they can all be found here.
> No dark or bright pixels. Perfect panel.
> No perceptable tilt to the stand, although a ruler shows 1/16th variance left to right (see unboxing pics).
> There is definitely a green tint to it. I used Lightrooms neutral grey background stretched across both monitors (other one is U2412M) and kicked the green gamma down by .05 and the blue brightness up by a few percent to get it to match. Am planning on borrowing a friend's X-rite Colormunki to calibrate both.
> Not gonna bother to overclock. Incredibly happy with the purchase as is.
> At any rate, my desk before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My desk after:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will fill out the form later. Gotta run now.
> BB


Huge improvement!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> I feel bad, I think scribby is the one that's going to have tare down his monitor again.
> If it is just the PCB ill definitely buy it and replace the one in my monitor, assuming they are not ridiculously expensive.


*Sigh* Fine - I'll tear them down in the am.







I too want to see what's what in there now that we started this journey.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> It looks like with Stryker's debunk there that the B/C variant hypothesis holds up. I haven't seen one person who has a 'C' say they can get it past 67hz, so I think we're cooking with fire here.


Seems correct, what happens when they get to "Ds"?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Anyone have some websites with good high res 2560 x 1440 wallpapers?


interfacelift.com Have fun!


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> *Sigh* Fine - I'll tear them down in the am.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I too want to see what's what in there now that we started this journey.


I love you.


----------



## stryker7314

Been weighing my options, and the easiest thing to do would be to trade and pay someone who has an overclockable one and doesn't care for it. How much do you guys think is fair? I'm thinking I'm willing to pay $100 and their shipping expenses to trade. So if anyone is interested, let me know. I have the Catleap without speakers and no defects, no dead/stuck pixels, perfect condition, haven't even removed the clear protective plastic from it.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Looking back at my pics I am not sure a swap will be easy (maybe not possible?) with the current state of the wiring. Not sure how easy it would be to re-wire for the second connector. Oh well, I will stop obsessing about this until the am. Ya right!


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Been weighing my options, and the easiest thing to do would be to trade and pay someone who has an overclockable one and doesn't care for it. How much do you guys think is fair? I'm thinking I'm willing to pay $100 and their shipping expenses to trade. So if anyone is interested, let me know. I have the Catleap without speakers and no defects, no dead/stuck pixels, perfect condition, haven't even removed the clear protective plastic from it.


We'll probably have better luck just selling our non-overclockable ones and hopefully getting a seller to sell us one that is overclockable.


----------



## necriss

Best option is to sell and buy a crossover which is rated at 75hz. Probably using the same controller board as 100hz catleap, won't know till a review is out.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Best option is to sell and buy a crossover which is rated at 75hz. Probably using the same controller board as 100hz catleap, won't know till a review is out.


I don't trust spec sheets on these Korean monitors. Probably safer to wait for someone to purchase one and test it.


----------



## Demented

I haven't even tried to oc my monitor. I will attempt it later when I get home, but it is *not* a major reason for me. If I can, great. If I can't? I still got a great panel with superb colors, brightness and clarity, for less than half the cost of other displays using the same(ish) panel. It's win/win no matter how I look at it.


----------



## necriss

True, if it doesn't hit 75hz should be quite easy to get money back through paypal because of false advertising.


----------



## jbuschdev

Here are some pics of the internals my SE2C which doesn't overclock



http://imgur.com/6r9XO


----------



## larrydavid

nm


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> True, if it doesn't hit 75hz should be quite easy to get money back through paypal because of false advertising.


Yeah, but you're required to pay return shipping on any dispute where you want to return an item for a refund.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Yeah, but you're required to pay return shipping on any dispute where you want to return an item for a refund.


Don't think that's true when the return is due to false advertising.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Don't think that's true when the return is due to false advertising.


http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/buyer-protection.html

"Return shipping will be at the buyer's expense"


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/buyer-protection.html
> "Return shipping will be at the buyer's expense"


Well that's really stupid, imo....


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Here are some pics of the internals my SE2C which doesn't overclock
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6r9XO


Looking at these it appears there is no easy (read: cheap) way to switch out the potential offending board?


----------



## haccess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Best option is to sell and buy a crossover which is rated at 75hz. Probably using the same controller board as 100hz catleap, won't know till a review is out.


It's probably just that the panels themselves are rated for 75hz at lower resolutions, and the models being sold without scalers won't run those resolutions. I wouldn't get your hopes up.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> This might be the controller board of 100hz catleap, judging by the cabling anyway. PDF specs say no OSD, only brightness +/-
> Although its only rated at 60hz so who knows, would love a tear down to see if its the same thing.
> http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/DS-NT09S-R00_27Jun10%5B2%5D_ICS.pdf


So this isn't the right board, but close! I have several emails out to the manufacturer to help shed some light on the differences in the panel (PCBs).


----------



## minnus

Guys ~ as a warning, do not purchase from red-cap. It seems like he was rather sneaky ~ editing in a clause in his listing that says "there might be dead pixels". Since its an external reference, eBay doesn't have a record of the previous description. I actually remember it saying something like "no bright pixel guarantee." He also just put up a listing that says "Perfect Pixel" for $100 more.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Here are some pics of the internals my SE2C which doesn't overclock
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6r9XO


Oh, and REP+ since now I only have to dismantle ONE of my monitors!


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Oh, and REP+ since now I only have to dismantle ONE of my monitors!


Assuming there are only 2 versions that is...

Maybe we can find people to swap with, because mine has no dead/stuck pixels but I was hoping to run at 100hz.

Also I bought an Ergotron Neo-flex stand for my Catleap, I'll take some pictures once I clean it up. I think I found a piece inside that covers up the hole from the old stand. The stand supports the size/weight of the Catleap and got it for $10 off craigslist. Even does portrait although it is flush with the base so no height adjustment in portrait.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> Guys ~ as a warning, do not purchase from red-cap. It seems like he was rather sneaky ~ editing in a clause in his listing that says "there might be dead pixels". Since its an external reference, eBay doesn't have a record of the previous description. I actually remember it saying something like "no bright pixel guarantee." He also just put up a listing that says "Perfect Pixel" for $100 more.


I'd pay the extra $100 if it's perfect pixel + 100hz.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Assuming there are only 2 versions that is...
> Maybe we can find people to swap with, because mine has no dead/stuck pixels but I was hoping to run at 100hz.
> Also I bought an Ergotron Neo-flex stand for my Catleap, I'll take some pictures once I clean it up. I think I found a piece inside that covers up the hole from the old stand. The stand supports the size/weight of the Catleap and got it for $10 off craigslist. Even does portrait although it is flush with the base so no height adjustment in portrait.


Ok, if I could I would take your REP away!







Shhh on the "only 2 versions" crap! Although we have no idea what is in each panel. Yours is exactly like mine that I cannot get past 65hz.


----------



## Iriskirk

Hi, this might be a silly question, I guess what I am trying to ask is that as long as my FPS stays below 60 I won't be able to notice the difference between 60hz and 85hz refresh rate, is that correct?
If that's the case, I am not gonna worry too much since my video card never get me over 60 in BF3


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iriskirk*
> 
> Hi, this might be a silly question, I guess what I am trying to ask is that as long as my FPS stays below 60 I won't be able to notice the difference between 60hz and 85hz refresh rate, is that correct?
> If that's the case, I am not gonna worry too much since my video card never get me over 60 in BF3


you are correct sir.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Iriskirk*
> 
> Hi, this might be a silly question, I guess what I am trying to ask is that as long as my FPS stays below 60 I won't be able to notice the difference between 60hz and 85hz refresh rate, is that correct?
> If that's the case, I am not gonna worry too much since my video card never get me over 60 in BF3


Pretty much and even if you spike a little it isn't going to be that noticeable.


----------



## Iriskirk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> you are correct sir.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Pretty much and even if you spike a little it isn't going to be that noticeable.


Thanks, guys! I am happy now.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Here are some pics of the internals my SE2C which doesn't overclock
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/6r9XO


Can you shoot an up-close of the brown connector to the DVI PCB?

Here's what I am thinking, and others out there with more experience let me know if it sounds crazy, assuming my DVI board is not the same as the one in these pics AND the connectors are similar, I was thinking of plugging in the board from my OC monitor to my non-OC monitor to see if I could get it to then OC. Again, assuming the connectors are the same, that could tell us if that board is the culprit. If it is, find that board and wiring, and you've got 100hz.

Although as I type this I am a little nervous about doing this. Anyone have any thoughts why this could be a bad thing to do?


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Huge improvement!


I'd say so!

By the way, I just filled out the form, but my entry didn't show up in the 3rd post. Do you as thread starter have to manually edit it?

BB


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Although as I type this I am a little nervous about doing this. Anyone have any thoughts why this could be a bad thing to do?


The wires look very fragile, be careful.

How do they actually connect to the panel? 100hz has 3 cables whereas 60hz only has 1 ?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> I'd say so!
> By the way, I just filled out the form, but my entry didn't show up in the 3rd post. Do you as thread starter have to manually edit it?
> BB


Nope it's auto - refresh - I see yours when I opened this in a new tab.


----------



## CTM Audi

Ordered one last night from "red-cap" so Ill be joing shortly (hopefully).


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> The wires look very fragile, be careful.
> How do they actually connect to the panel? 100hz has 3 cables whereas 60hz only has 1 ?


They are. No it looks to me that the cabling is the same its how they connect to the panel that is different.

NON-OC - as pictured - one cable from DVI PCB to PANEL (the black one is brightness, power panel connectors)

OC - two cables from DVI PCB to PANEL (the white one is brightness, power, speaker connector in my crappy photo), but I think if memory serves the number of wires is about the same - I could be wrong.

The more I look at it, the more I don't think we can do any modifications to get non-oc to oc. However, I will still disassemble my OC version to at least have comparison shots.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> Guys ~ as a warning, do not purchase from red-cap. It seems like he was rather sneaky ~ editing in a clause in his listing that says "there might be dead pixels". Since its an external reference, eBay doesn't have a record of the previous description. I actually remember it saying something like "no bright pixel guarantee." He also just put up a listing that says "Perfect Pixel" for $100 more.


Where? I dont see it in the link I ordered through,
http://www.ebay.com/itm/320860082948?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Where? I dont see it in the link I ordered through,
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/320860082948?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


Here:


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Here:


Wow, I didn't see it at first either. Odd since it's in red and bold. Hell, that would make me not buy from him at all. While we all know the risk is there, having it thrown in my face would make me consider another seller.


----------



## Geglamash

Demented, have you tried cleaning your monitor yet?
Interested to see if maybe it's just me with a difficult to clean panel.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Wow, I didn't see it at first either. Odd since it's in red and bold. Hell, that would make me not buy from him at all. While we all know the risk is there, having it thrown in my face would make me consider another seller.


Agreed, Im thinking of messaging him to cancle my order since he added that after it was placed, and get it from dreamseller.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Demented, have you tried cleaning your monitor yet?
> Interested to see if maybe it's just me with a difficult to clean panel.


Nah. I haven't even taken off all of the plastic. Tomorrow I plan to dismantle my Eyefinity setup, and all of my glorious cable management. Then, since I still have to wait another day to get the stand I ordered, I'm just gonna set it up. Wednesday when the stand comes, the dismantling of the Catleap will begin.









I had gently ran a handkerchief along it, and that didn't leave any marks. I'm actually shopping for multi-packs of micro-fiber cloths. I'm so worried about damaging it.


----------



## ibtar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> So this isn't the right board, but close! I have several emails out to the manufacturer to help shed some light on the differences in the panel (PCBs).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> They are. No it looks to me that the cabling is the same its how they connect to the panel that is different.
> 
> NON-OC - as pictured - one cable from DVI PCB to PANEL (the black one is brightness, power panel connectors)
> 
> OC - two cables from DVI PCB to PANEL (the white one is brightness, power, speaker connector in my crappy photo), but I think if memory serves the number of wires is about the same - I could be wrong.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a
> 
> 
> The 5th and 6th pictures in this gallery show #1, or the panel pcb which I'm referring to. Again this is all speculation and from the looks of it, it may not even be removable/swappable, and the pcb it's connected to may be different too.
> 
> The more I look at it, the more I don't think we can do any modifications to get non-oc to oc. However, I will still disassemble my OC version to at least have comparison shots.


It seems to me that there are two boards that are different, or at least from what I can tell looking at the pictures I've seen so far.

1. The board connected to the back of the panel itself (small rectangular board).
2. The DVI PCB.

#1 on the non-oc display seems to only have one connector on the panel itself, whereas the oc version has two. Obviously the dvi board would be swappable but I don't know about the other panel pcb at all.


----------



## jbuschdev

It looks like the board attached to the LCD can be replaced as well. So it might need 2 pieces replaced + cable.

Who knows for sure though.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> Guys ~ as a warning, do not purchase from red-cap. It seems like he was rather sneaky ~ editing in a clause in his listing that says "there might be dead pixels". Since its an external reference, eBay doesn't have a record of the previous description. I actually remember it saying something like "no bright pixel guarantee." He also just put up a listing that says "Perfect Pixel" for $100 more.


All of them have a chance of having dead pixels because they are A- grade panels:

http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail_inventory.php?id=4998&pagesize=30&order=dateline&by=desc&inv_general_grade=A-&inv_general_grade=
http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail_inventory.php?id=4999&pagesize=30&order=dateline&by=desc&inv_general_grade=A-&inv_general_grade=

Only A+ grade panels have zero bright dead pixel guarantee.

For $370 USD delivered you cannot expect to get a A+ grade panel. That's what Dell would be using with their U2711 which has zero dead pixel guarantee, scaler, multiple inputs, OSD, warranty, customer service etc. and that is why you pay double the price.

At least some of these sellers allow you to return it for a refund albeit at your own expense.


----------



## sonicBlue

For people struggling with refresh on Nvidia cards try these timings:


----------



## royalkilla408

So Catleap cannot do 100hz anymore? What seller is selling the 100hz one still? If not I rather get the other model =(


----------



## utnorris

So I ordered one from Green-sum on Saturday, had plenty of stock. Asked him for a tracking number yesterday and in the evening, my time, he told me it was being packed and would have a tracking number for me. Wake up and check my email and now he tells me he doesn't have stock and it will be two more days before he has some. I cancelled the order, I can order from someone else. It's not the delay that bothers me, it's the "I have it in stock, it's being packed and will have a tracking number for you soon" to "sorry, oos, will be two more days" that bothers me. I know we are getting these cheap, but they should be honest about their stock and shipping times, that's all I am saying.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *royalkilla408*
> 
> So Catleap cannot do 100hz anymore? What seller is selling the 100hz one still? If not I rather get the other model =(


You can try specifically asking for a "2B" model which is capable of higher refresh rates. Chances are they are already sold out.

Wait for a crossover variant review, they may be able to do 100hz as the listed refresh rate is 75hz.


----------



## Demented

I'm starting to think that maybe the companies fixed the higher refresh rate 'flaw' because maybe it caused damage to the panels. Thus in their 2C models, the PCB was revised and changed to help prolong the life of the monitor.

In other words, I'll still try when I get home to get higher, but even if I can, I probably won't.


----------



## EpicPie

On my next paycheck, looks like i'll be picking one of these up. Should be a significant upgrade from my 21.5" LG monitor. Though I like my monitor for it's 2ms response time.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EpicPie*
> 
> On my next paycheck, looks like i'll be picking one of these up. Should be a significant upgrade from my 21.5" LG monitor. Though I like my monitor for it's 2ms response time.


Which one are you leaning towards?

Derp, thought this was the other thread that started this fiasco.










@Pie, not that the Catleap isn't awesome, but be sure and check out the Crossover. It might be a bit more your taste. Plus, we need people to buy and give us opinions so we can waste more money.


----------



## EpicPie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Which one are you leaning towards?


The 27".


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I'm starting to think that maybe the companies fixed the higher refresh rate 'flaw' because maybe it caused damage to the panels. Thus in their 2C models, the PCB was revised and changed to help prolong the life of the monitor.
> In other words, I'll still try when I get home to get higher, but even if I can, I probably won't.


I don't think they even knew about it. Nor would they really have time within a week or two to fix it.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I'm starting to think that maybe the companies fixed the higher refresh rate 'flaw' because maybe it caused damage to the panels. Thus in their 2C models, the PCB was revised and changed to help prolong the life of the monitor.
> In other words, I'll still try when I get home to get higher, but even if I can, I probably won't.


Very unlikely, most people don't even know how to change refresh rate from the factory 60hz default. Its fair to assume the newer PCB not capable of 100hz is cheaper for the manufacturer.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> I don't think they even knew about it. Nor would they really have time within a week or two to fix it.


Who said the fix was done only a few weeks ago? The sellers may have just had some old stock to start, and are now dipping into the newer of the stock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Very unlikely, most people don't even know how to change refresh rate from the factory 60hz default. Its fair to assume the newer PCB not capable of 100hz is cheaper for the manufacturer.


What I'm saying is that it originally wasn't intended. Perhaps if/when they revised the 2A to the 2B a new PCB was used that was cheaper, but due to a flaw in the workings of it. So they went back to their original, or an even better one.

Mind you, this is all purely speculation and discussion.


----------



## CTM Audi

My message to red-cap,
Quote:


> When I paid for mine, your listing didnt say anything about the pixels. Now it says there may be dead pixels, after I had ordered, and you are offering a pixel perfect display for more. When paying, I asked if it was possible to have the screen checked before shipment (this was before the change in listing), and have not gotten a reply.
> Id like to have mine checked and verified to be pixel perfect and defect free before shipment.
> Thanks you


His reply,
Quote:


> Hi
> thank you for buying
> I am about to send your order and just noticed the note.
> we don't open a box to avoid an argument about the condition ( new or not ) ,sorry
> there might be some dead pixels ( five at most )
> if you don't want this monitor , I can cancel the transaction without any penalty
> 
> waiting for your reply
> choi


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Very unlikely, most people don't even know how to change refresh rate from the factory 60hz default. Its fair to assume the newer PCB not capable of 100hz is cheaper for the manufacturer.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> My message to red-cap,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> When I paid for mine, your listing didnt say anything about the pixels. Now it says there may be dead pixels, after I had ordered, and you are offering a pixel perfect display for more. When paying, I asked if it was possible to have the screen checked before shipment (this was before the change in listing), and have not gotten a reply.
> Id like to have mine checked and verified to be pixel perfect and defect free before shipment.
> Thanks you
> 
> 
> 
> His reply,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> thank you for buying
> I am about to send your order and just noticed the note.
> we don't open a box to avoid an argument about the condition ( new or not ) ,sorry
> there might be some dead pixels ( five at most )
> if you don't want this monitor , I can cancel the transaction without any penalty
> waiting for your reply
> choi
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I wonder if the members that ordered from sellers that said they would and supposedly did check the monitors, if their box looks like it has been opened or not. Some of you may be paying a 'dead pixel check' fee for nothing.


----------



## Martyr82

Hi all. I thought I'd make a summary post as my Monitor arrived today.

I am blown away by the quality of service from the seller Green-Sum.

I purchased a bare bones model (no speakers or class, DVI-D only) and after just 4 days and 9 hours since clicking 'pay now' through paypal, my monitor was at my door. 2 business days and 2 hours! Shipped to Australia.

As usual the packaging was excellent, box in box style with bubble wrap, there are many pictures of this on these forums so I wont bloat this thread more with any.
I do however want to show you how beautiful this screen looks in BF3, ME3 and D3. I have zero dead pixels, no monitor lean and nothing else to report. It is simply without flaw. 10/10.

Anyway, on to the pics;


----------



## AlienGod

Hey guys! I was wondering if the 23 inch catleap 2300LED ISP is the same as Q270 but with a smaller screen and lower resolution? I've searched all over google but can't find enough info. I was thinking the 27 inch monitor might be too big since I prefer to sit up close to the monitor when gaming. Thanks.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110837444756#ht_16001wt_1102


----------



## PearlJammzz

It wouldn't be the same panel...you said it yourself, smaller screen and lower resolution.

If you want a low-res monitor just go nab one from Newegg or something for 200 bucks. You can watch slickdeals.net for some e-ips 1080p screens. They are cheap!


----------



## bQvle

ScribbyDaGreat: Really looking farward hearing what you find out! Lets hope its possible to change the board in the Non-oc version. and that we can buy that board and mod the non-oc's ourself.


----------



## bhamhawker

Looks like mine will be here before the afternoon!!
Quote:


> Mar 13, 2012 8:48 AM
> On FedEx vehicle for delivery
> HOMEWOOD, AL
> Mar 13, 2012 7:36 AM
> At local FedEx facility
> HOMEWOOD, AL
> Mar 13, 2012 5:32 AM
> At destination sort facility
> BIRMINGHAM, AL
> Mar 13, 2012 4:51 AM
> Departed FedEx location
> MEMPHIS, TN
> Mar 13, 2012 1:15 AM
> Arrived at FedEx location
> MEMPHIS, TN
> Mar 12, 2012 3:59 PM
> Departed FedEx location
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> Mar 12, 2012 1:21 PM
> International shipment release - Import
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> Mar 12, 2012 12:29 PM
> Arrived at FedEx location
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> Mar 12, 2012 10:24 PM
> In transit
> INCHEON KR
> Mar 12, 2012 7:37 PM
> In transit
> INCHEON KR
> Mar 12, 2012 12:10 AM
> Shipment information sent to FedEx
> Mar 12, 2012 1:59 PM
> Left FedEx origin facility
> DAEJEON KR
> Mar 12, 2012 1:45 PM
> Picked up
> DAEJEON KR


----------



## b0z0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhamhawker*
> 
> Looks like mine will be here before the afternoon!!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Mar 13, 2012 8:48 AM
> On FedEx vehicle for delivery
> HOMEWOOD, AL
> Mar 13, 2012 7:36 AM
> At local FedEx facility
> HOMEWOOD, AL
> Mar 13, 2012 5:32 AM
> At destination sort facility
> BIRMINGHAM, AL
> Mar 13, 2012 4:51 AM
> Departed FedEx location
> MEMPHIS, TN
> Mar 13, 2012 1:15 AM
> Arrived at FedEx location
> MEMPHIS, TN
> Mar 12, 2012 3:59 PM
> Departed FedEx location
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> Mar 12, 2012 1:21 PM
> International shipment release - Import
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> Mar 12, 2012 12:29 PM
> Arrived at FedEx location
> ANCHORAGE, AK
> Mar 12, 2012 10:24 PM
> In transit
> INCHEON KR
> Mar 12, 2012 7:37 PM
> In transit
> INCHEON KR
> Mar 12, 2012 12:10 AM
> Shipment information sent to FedEx
> Mar 12, 2012 1:59 PM
> Left FedEx origin facility
> DAEJEON KR
> Mar 12, 2012 1:45 PM
> Picked up
> DAEJEON KR
Click to expand...

Better post pic's =P BTW check out the Alabama OCer's club in the off topic.


----------



## vhxonline

I was probably one of the first to report the new Catleaps having issues with getting over the 60hz range barrier (Mine only goes to 62hz).

Three possible reasons that I can think of for the change from from 2B to 2C is that:

a) Maybe the manufacturer discovered a flaw or some issue in the old controller.

b) Wanted to cut some costs and use cheaper components.

c) The old circuitry isn't available anymore or at least not in the quantity to meet demand any more.

In any case, since I have around 4-5 dead pixels, the seller has agreed to take mine back and pay for the shipping as well, which surprised me. Maybe I can get a 2B panel if he has anymore. Hopefully in my previous statement, the reason for the switch wasn't option A.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> My message to red-cap,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> When I paid for mine, your listing didnt say anything about the pixels. Now it says there may be dead pixels, after I had ordered, and you are offering a pixel perfect display for more. When paying, I asked if it was possible to have the screen checked before shipment (this was before the change in listing), and have not gotten a reply.
> Id like to have mine checked and verified to be pixel perfect and defect free before shipment.
> Thanks you
> 
> 
> 
> His reply,
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hi
> thank you for buying
> I am about to send your order and just noticed the note.
> we don't open a box to avoid an argument about the condition ( new or not ) ,sorry
> there might be some dead pixels ( five at most )
> if you don't want this monitor , I can cancel the transaction without any penalty
> waiting for your reply
> choi
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Conitinued,

Me
Quote:


> I would rather it be opened and inspected to avoid having to ship back. I want it regardless. If it has more then 5 bad pixels does that mean its DOA and return shipping would be covered?


Him
Quote:


> sorry, I can't open it although you ask me to do that, sorry it is our policy and ebay's also
> if you worry about the bad sector , I recommend you to buy the perfect pixel ( confirmed by yamakasi company )
> I will give you discount if you would buy it
> 
> thank you
> choi


So its not him checking the box, its new from the company with guarnteed perfect pixels. I wonder if thats the same panel as the U2711 then?


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vhxonline*
> 
> In any case, since I have around 4-5 dead pixels, the seller has agreed to take mine back and pay for the shipping as well, which surprised me. Maybe I can get a 2B panel if he has anymore. Hopefully in my previous statement, the reason for the switch wasn't option A.


Great service. Who did you buy from ?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Here goes all the pics from an OC monitor. Not so sure we could swap out internals since the PCBs on the panel itself seemed to be glued (and to me look like they have some funky attachments).



*RED for the PCB to the panel, BLUE speakers, YELLOW to brightness/volume/power, PURPLE to panel. THIS IS THE DVI TO PANEL PCB.*



*UP CLOSE OF SN ON DVI PCB*



*FULL OF DVI PCB - CABLES WOULD NOT COME OUT EASY AND I DIDN'T WANT TO DAMAGE THEM*



*BACK OF DVI PCB*



*UP CLOSE OF DVI PCB TO PANEL PCB CONNECTORS - THESE ARE NOT THE SAME AS ON A NON-OC MONITOR*



*RIGHT SIDE/TOP OF PANEL PCB*



*CENTER PANEL PCB - THIS IS WHERE THE PCB DVI CONNECTORS PLUG INTO (UP CLOSE SHOT BELOW)*



*UP CLOSE OF CONNECTION TO TOP PANEL PCBS*



*UP CLOSE OF CHIP*



*HERE'S THE MAIN DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO PANELS - THESE ARE THE CONNECTORS THAT LEAD TO THE DVI PCB*



*LEFT SIDE/TOP PCB ON PANEL*



*SN on the other PCB is 68705-0922A rather than 68705-0921A and is "SOURCE PCB (R)" instead of "SOURCE PCB (L)" - this is the left side of the monitor when it is flipped and you are facing it.*



Again, I am not sure how one would remove the boards on the back of the panel to make a switch.


----------



## siberx

I just got my Catleap Q270 last night; SE2C variant, and it won't hit refresh rates above 65Hz or so without wigging out. Otherwise it's a fantastic monitor









Looking closely at the (very nice shots, thank you jbuschdev) pics posted so far of the 2C variant compared to the couple photos ScribbyDaGreat posted of the wiring at the back, it would appear we have a total of 3 components to worry about here.

1. The actual panel itself, including a couple thin PCBs that directly drive the TFT. I suspect this is the same in all cases.
2. A driver board located immediately below the two thin PCBs. This is clearly visible on the 2C shots and not shown on Scribby's 2B shots because he didn't remove the metal shield covering it (although you can see the cables that attach to it). This is connected to the two thin PCBs with a couple flat ribbon cables (at least on the 2C). I suspect this board is connected to the two thin PCBs the same way on all units.
3. A DVI converter board, which takes the incoming power and DVI and feeds the drivers/backlights, etc. This is obviously a different board on both units, as the wiring is different.

My current suspicion is that both the DVI converter board and the driver board are different between the two variants; they have different cabling that runs between them, so this stands to reason. It should be possible to replace both the dvi converter board and driver board from a 2B onto a 2C's panel and get high refresh rate out of it.

ScribbyDaGreat: When you're doing a teardown could you remove the metal shield covering the driver board (the one clearly visible in the 6th shot of jbuschdev's pics) and examine the connection between the driver board and the panel (two flat ribbons in his case)? If your connections there are the same, there's no reason you shouldn't be able to replace the driver board and DVI converter on your 2C monitor with your 2B's hardware and get high refresh rate out of it. This would be extremely invaluable, and would tell us exactly what's the difference between the two units.

EDIT: Just saw your shots Scribby, thank you; is it possible to swap the board attached to the back of the panel marked "LG Display" on the main chip? you should be able to flip the tabs up on the two ribbons and remove it, and put that part (and its associated DVI board) from the 2B into the 2C.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

All those shots are there.

EDIT: I will label them - hold on a sec.


----------



## jbuschdev

It does look like the button/power LED and the main power connection look the same, and I don't have speakers. So it's just the cable between the panel, the small board on the panel and the DVI board itself. like siberx said. It also shows your panel is a slightly different revision.

If someone is in the Seattle area and has a SE2B that can OC and is willing to disassemble it. We could try messing around with these and see what's possible.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I noticed the panel version difference, but really that doesn't help since mine is a speaker version PCB and yours isn't. At first I thought ok so the non-oc uses an older PCB, but that version could be the latest and greatest for a non-speaker PCB.


----------



## siberx

Also, for anybody who was wondering about the reasoning behind the switch, I'm now almost positive it was a cost reduction; the 2C's cabling and harness are significantly cheaper/simpler than the 2B's, so I think people can make the assumption that there's nothing "wrong" with the 2B variants (nor their ability to hit high refresh rates) other than that they cost too much to make









Now, who wants to see if they can somehow source a replacement pair of PCBs and a wiring harness independently?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Also, for anybody who was wondering about the reasoning behind the switch, I'm now almost positive it was a cost reduction; the 2C's cabling and harness are significantly cheaper/simpler than the 2B's, so I think people can make the assumption that there's nothing "wrong" with the 2B variants (nor their ability to hit high refresh rates) other than that they cost too much to make
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, who wants to see if they can somehow source a replacement pair of PCBs and a wiring harness independently?


I have several emails out regarding the internals to different (I believe) sources. I will let everyone know if I hear anything back.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> *Funny this one leans to the left - not right. Although I can press it down on the right to get it level. Any bump makes it go off kilter again.*


Were you able to put 1/4" of something under the left side of the base to level it out?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I could push it to level it, but any movement would make it go back. I have mine wall mounted so it doesn't matter to me!


----------



## siberx

Thanks for all the great info Scribby. Is the center/lower panel pcb attached to the monitor with glue or clear tape or something? Does it seem like it world be possible to peel it off without damage?


----------



## jbuschdev

Also, has anyone confirmed that there are no SE2B's that can't overclock and SE2C's that can? Just wondering if that serial number is what really defines the different versions internally or not.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Thanks for all the great info Scribby. Is the center/lower panel pcb attached to the monitor with glue or clear tape or something? Does it seem like it world be possible to peel it off without damage?


The center can be peeled up - it is held on with double-sided tape at the connection point to the top panel PCBs.

Here are the model numbers of all FOUR PCBs if someone else wants to hunt for them as well.

DVI PCB W/SPEAKER

MODEL #: HY-2560M_DA_Q1.REV.4

CENTER PANEL PCB (CONNECTS TO DVI PCB)

MODEL # LM270WQ1-SLA1

P/N: 6870C-0340A_REV0.2

DESIGNED: 2010.04.06

RIGHT TOP PANEL PCB

MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(R)

P/N: 6870S-0922A EVT2 REV0.4

DESIGNED: 2009/05/06

LEFT TOP PANEL PCB

MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(L)

P/N: 6870S-0921A EVT2 REV0.4

DESIGNED: 2009/05/06


----------



## jbuschdev

NON-OC / 2C Version

DVI PCB W/O SPEAKER:
MODEL # HY-2560M_DP REV_02

CENTER PANEL PCB (CONNECTS TO DVI PCB):
MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2
P/N: 6870C-0301A_EVT2_Rev1.0
DESIGNED: 2009.05.14

LEFT TOP PANEL PCB:
MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(R)
P/N: 6870S-0922A EVT2 REV0.4
DESIGNED: 2009/05/06

RIGHT TOP PANEL PCB:
MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(L)
P/N: 6870S-0921A EVT2 REV0.4
DESIGNED: 2009/05/06

It looks like the LEFT/RIGHT TOP PANEL PCB's are identical. So that looks promising.

Haha just realized LG Has a typo on their PCB. Mine says "DESGINED: 2009.05.14"


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Thanks - fixed.

When you google the part numbers the entire panel comes up. Interesting.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> NON-OC / 2C Version
> DVI PCB W/O SPEAKER: HY-2560M_DP REV_02
> 
> CENTER PANEL PCB (CONNECTS TO DVI PCB): MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 - P/N: 6870C-0301A_EVT2_REV1.0 - DESIGNED: 2009.05.14
> 
> LEFT TOP PANEL PCB: MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(R) - P/N: 6870S-0922A EVT2 REV0.4 - DESIGNED: 2009/05/06
> 
> RIGHT TOP PANEL PCB: MODEL # LM270WQ1-SDA2 SOURCE PCB(L) - P/N: 6870S-0921A EVT2 REV0.4 - DESIGNED: 2009/05/06
> It looks like the LEFT/TOP PANEL PCB's are identical. So that looks promising.
> I think you had a typo for the DVI PCB, should say 2560
> Haha just realized LG Has a typo on their PCB. Mine says "DESGINED: 2009.05.14"


Yes it does! If only we cold find those two PCBs and cables we would be cooking with gas!


----------



## jbuschdev

I found a similar part number on the LCD Controller and says it's made by Sanyo. It still had Sharp printed on the board, and another one had LG.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/6870c


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

The left and right top panel model numbers correspond to the overall panel model number (at least that is how it is being reported to me by a few sites I am looking at.)

The issue I am having is I cannot track anything for the center PCB. Anyone have that?

EDIT: Found a Chinese site with the center PCB part number calling it the Logic Board with the model number corresponding to the overall panel. Although there is no direct contact info. NVM it's a forum.


----------



## jbuschdev

Yea, I'd search by part-number.

I can't find any on eBay, but I find 1300 similar parts that start with 6870C and are all LCD controllers. I believe Sanyo is an OEM on LCD parts so it looks like they maybe did that part of the panel.


----------



## AndresR

Got today my Capleap from *red-cap* http://www.ebay.com/itm/320860082948?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_12698wt_1396

Paid on Mar-05-12, seller shipped Mar-09 via TNT and arrived today! (had to pay $110 shipping fee because of my country) and here paid $60 for the custom fees (the gift and lower value doesn't work here, even the original receipt, customs always charges what they want







).

Here are the packing pictures, everything arrived fine and works perfectly, 0 dead pixels!










Big brown box



















Bubble wrap inside the brown box










Didn't take more pictures, because there already lot of them here, just wanted to share the packing


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Got today my Capleap from *red-cap* http://www.ebay.com/itm/320860082948?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_12698wt_1396
> Paid on Mar-05-12, seller shipped Mar-09 via TNT and arrived today! (had to pay $110 shipping fee because of my country) and here paid $60 for the custom fees (the gift and lower value doesn't work here, even the original receipt, customs always charges what they want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Your avatar says you're in Florida!


----------



## larrydavid

AndresR : Did you get a 2B or 2C model?


----------



## AndresR

Just notice something, when i scroll on chrome/word or resize a window, the windows 7 bar flashes, i think it must be driver issue







, using a 7970.


----------



## omekone

I have an SE2C and it will not overclock.


----------



## AndresR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Your avatar says you're in Florida!


Sorry, haven't updated my profile








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> AndresR : Did you get a 2B or 2C model?


2C


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Just notice something, when i scroll on chrome/word or resize a window, the windows 7 bar flashes, i think it must be driver issue
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , using a 7970.


Can you provide a shot of your box SN? We are trying to determine who can and who cannot overclock (and if it is based on the serial number of the monitor.)

Thanks!


----------



## jbuschdev

Is it a primary or secondary monitor. I remember some issues with 5870's when you the card switched to low-power mode the screen would flash/flicker. If you watch something like Afterburner and watch your memory speeds. See if they line up with the flickering.

Also I found my Center PCB part on a Chinese site. Costs $15 American dollars. Can't seem to find the newer part though.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10283158898


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Sorry, haven't updated my profile
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2C


I was just giving you a hard time!

Thanks - ignore my other request.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Is it a primary or secondary monitor. I remember some issues with 5870's when you the card switched to low-power mode the screen would flash/flicker. If you watch something like Afterburner and watch your memory speeds. See if they line up with the flickering.
> Also I found my Center PCB part on a Chinese site. Costs $15 American dollars. Can't seem to find the newer part though.
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10283158898


I like how it asks you to search BABY. One sec I am double checking the part number with a close up shot. Weird it doesn't come up anywhere.



Same spelling error!


----------



## AndresR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Is it a primary or secondary monitor. I remember some issues with 5870's when you the card switched to low-power mode the screen would flash/flicker. If you watch something like Afterburner and watch your memory speeds. See if they line up with the flickering.
> Also I found my Center PCB part on a Chinese site. Costs $15 American dollars. Can't seem to find the newer part though.
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10283158898


It's my primary monitor. The card makes a coil noise when scroll/resize. I started MSI Kombustor and scroll/resize and the problem is gone. Definitely is the low-power mode.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I was just giving you a hard time!
> 
> Thanks - ignore my other request.


No problem


----------



## jagz

Highly considering buying a tempered glass just to hope for an older/OC'able model. Hmm.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Highly considering buying a tempered glass just to hope for an older/OC'able model. Hmm.


We aren't sure at this point if it's older or newer! The OC monitor has a newer PCB, but "older" SN.


----------



## DrRetina

Can you remove the glass from the "tempered glass" model or is the glass glued onto the screen?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrRetina*
> 
> Can you remove the glass from the "tempered glass" model or is the glass glued onto the screen?


I haven't seen a post about that here or in the original thread yet.


----------



## jbuschdev

I don't think I've seen a tempered-glass Catleap posted yet.


----------



## siberx

Had anybody searched to see if we can source the wiring harness (do we have a part number?) or the dvi board? we would potentially need all three (or maybe one board and a custom harnesses depending) to make an OC conversion "kit", so to speak.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have more emails out to Chinese manufacturers - we will see if I get any responses! I found a PCB very close to the one we would need that comes from an LG 55" and is labeled as an "inverter."


----------



## bhamhawker

HELP!! Monitor is here. Plugged in via Dual-Link to my HD5870 (reference card).

I have 2 other monitors, one via HDMI and one via DVI (single-link).

The Catleap monitor is just blinking. I'm getting the computer to recognize something is plugged in, but not getting it to actually display on the monitor.

I'm going to be livid if I managed to get a DOA.


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Is it a primary or secondary monitor. I remember some issues with 5870's when you the card switched to low-power mode the screen would flash/flicker. If you watch something like Afterburner and watch your memory speeds. See if they line up with the flickering.
> Also I found my Center PCB part on a Chinese site. Costs $15 American dollars. Can't seem to find the newer part though.
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10283158898


I too had a similar issue with my HD5870, the issue was powerplay when the clock value drop down to the idle value. All i did was overclock the idle values using RBE, bios flash and all was good. I am trying to find the exact guide but will get back to you later.

some guides on the fix:
->http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=658110

-> http://www.overclock.net/t/1112425/how-to-permanently-fix-5870-dual-monitor-flicker


----------



## HyperMatrix

hey guys. looks like i may have been correct. the tempered glass version green-sum shipped to me last thursday just arrived and it is the B version. going to check for dead pixels and order another one hoping my theory is correct that the tempered glass one sells a lot less, and therefore they havent gotten around to using the C model yet.


----------



## JKClubs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> hey guys. looks like i may have been correct. the tempered glass version green-sum shipped to me last thursday just arrived and it is the B version. going to check for dead pixels and order another one hoping my theory is correct that the tempered glass one sells a lot less, and therefore they havent gotten around to using the C model yet.


I hope you're correct. I have another tempered glass from green-sum in transit now. I ordered on Thursday and will hopefully have it by this weekend. Will update if I receive B or C version.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> hey guys. looks like i may have been correct. the tempered glass version green-sum shipped to me last thursday just arrived and it is the B version. going to check for dead pixels and order another one hoping my theory is correct that the tempered glass one sells a lot less, and therefore they havent gotten around to using the C model yet.


Can you OC the hz ?

/gets ready to order

Also, the extra glass... It's still crystal clear right.. Not exactly going to be an issue having an additional layer of glass there right?


----------



## KuuFA

Just got mine in have some pics my packing wasn't as good as others, but i got a 2c version i believe but idc about the refresh the screen is breath taking.


----------



## taurean

I ordered a Q270 SE from red-cap on Sunday evening, the monitor shipped yesterday around 1:45PM and arrived here in Pennsylvania this morning at 7AM. Packaging matched the previous poster and the screen was flawless when I plugged it in... very pleased with the screen and astounded by the delivery speed.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> hey guys. looks like i may have been correct. the tempered glass version green-sum shipped to me last thursday just arrived and it is the B version. going to check for dead pixels and order another one hoping my theory is correct that the tempered glass one sells a lot less, and therefore they havent gotten around to using the C model yet.


WAITING . . .


----------



## bhamhawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhamhawker*
> 
> HELP!! Monitor is here. Plugged in via Dual-Link to my HD5870 (reference card).
> I have 2 other monitors, one via HDMI and one via DVI (single-link).
> The Catleap monitor is just blinking. I'm getting the computer to recognize something is plugged in, but not getting it to actually display on the monitor.
> I'm going to be livid if I managed to get a DOA.


Anyone? When I try to extend to this desktop, it gives me the error "unable to save display settings"


----------



## sinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndresR*
> 
> Got today my Capleap from *red-cap* http://www.ebay.com/itm/320860082948?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649#ht_12698wt_1396
> Paid on Mar-05-12, seller shipped Mar-09 via TNT and arrived today! (had to pay $110 shipping fee because of my country) and here paid $60 for the custom fees (the gift and lower value doesn't work here, even the original receipt, customs always charges what they want
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


So where are you from?

$60 is actually less than what the real VAT+duty should be in Europe. For a $400 Monitor imported from Korea it should be around $140 - 160.

You got screwed over really bad with shipping. I hope at least you ended up with a perfect panel.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> hey guys. looks like i may have been correct. the tempered glass version green-sum shipped to me last thursday just arrived and it is the B version. going to check for dead pixels and order another one hoping my theory is correct that the tempered glass one sells a lot less, and therefore they havent gotten around to using the C model yet.


Please pics of the tempered Catleap. You'll be the first one to show pic of it.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> Please pics of the tempered Catleap. You'll be the first one to show pic of it.


Here you go, better quality possibly come later after I charge up my better camera.

This is a:

Catleap Q270-SE2B
NO-Speakers Tempered Glass ordered from Green-Sum ordered on the 8th, received on the 13th

http://i.imgur.com/8IoxV.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/QUfcw.jpg


----------



## erocker

I'm going to buy one of these for myself! They look fantastic. I have a question though, has anyone gotten an extra shipping charge in the US and what is delivery time like? I skimmed through the thread as best I could.









Thanks!


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Had anybody searched to see if we can source the wiring harness (do we have a part number?) or the dvi board? we would potentially need all three (or maybe one board and a custom harnesses depending) to make an OC conversion "kit", so to speak.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> Here you go, better quality possibly come later after I charge up my better camera.
> This is a:
> Catleap Q270-SE2B
> NO-Speakers Tempered Glass ordered from Green-Sum ordered on the 8th, received on the 13th
> http://i.imgur.com/8IoxV.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/QUfcw.jpg


Is it a 2B or 2C in the serial number?\

Nm you edited it. Damn. 2B!!!!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> Here you go, better quality possibly come later after I charge up my better camera.
> This is a:
> Catleap Q270-SE2B
> NO-Speakers Tempered Glass ordered from Green-Sum ordered on the 8th, received on the 13th
> http://i.imgur.com/8IoxV.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/QUfcw.jpg


That is pretty. OC THAT SUCKER NOW!


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> Here you go, better quality possibly come later after I charge up my better camera.
> This is a:
> Catleap Q270-SE2B
> NO-Speakers Tempered Glass ordered from Green-Sum ordered on the 8th, received on the 13th
> http://i.imgur.com/8IoxV.jpg
> http://i.imgur.com/QUfcw.jpg


Finally some pics of a tempered glass catleap thanx, but is sad that they only place a glass on top of the regular model. you can actually see the monitor screen behind the glass push to the back. Also it seems the glass create alot of reflection compare to the regular non-tempered.


----------



## larrydavid

If the tempered glass ones are 2B, I'd buy one and just remove the glass.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> I'm going to buy one of these for myself! They look fantastic. I have a question though, has anyone gotten an extra shipping charge in the US and what is delivery time like? I skimmed through the thread as best I could.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Lazy, just plain lazy!







Only 450+ posts to review! No charges and it depends where you live. I received mine in 4 days after shipped. Ordered on a Monday was in on Saturday (both times shipped Wednesday.) Your results may vary.


----------



## bhamhawker

I figured it out!! Needed to use the cable that came with the monitor apparently.

I'll post some pics tonight!!!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> If the tempered glass ones are 2B, I'd buy one and just remove the glass.


BTW when is Curb Your Enthusiasm coming back?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bhamhawker*
> 
> I figured it out!! Needed to use the cable that came with the monitor apparently.
> I'll post some pics tonight!!!


Well, you need a true dual DVI cable. See post 4 for those confused.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> BTW when is Curb Your Enthusiasm coming back?


Haha hopefully he'll do another season -- funniest show on tv.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Haha hopefully he'll do another season -- funniest show on tv.


You know how I knew you weren't the real deal? When you purchased a Korean monitor!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Can you OC the hz ?
> /gets ready to order
> Also, the extra glass... It's still crystal clear right.. Not exactly going to be an issue having an additional layer of glass there right?


The tempered glass looks brilliant. Takes nothing away from the quality of the screen. A lot of people had me worried after I ordered it. But no it's brilliant. Mine has a few dead pixels but honestly...I couldn't see them without doing the whole-screen colour test and sticking my eyes an inch from the screen. lol. And I'm normally OCD about this stuff. I am incredibly happy.

Mine also came in a super huge box fromm Green-Sum, filled with air bubbles. AND...I was surprised at this...he put in a a korea to american power plug converter in the box for me!!!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

For those of you with non-OC monitors I will post all the part numbers and updates in a separate "spoiler" in post 4 to keep it simple. We have made some good head way into why these monitors will and will not OC, but none into where we can source the correct PCBs and cables (requests are out, no responses yet.)

If any member gets info please post here, obviously, so I can get that into the spoiler in post 4.

Thanks


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> The tempered glass looks brilliant. Takes nothing away from the quality of the screen. A lot of people had me worried after I ordered it. But no it's brilliant. Mine has a few dead pixels but honestly...I couldn't see them without doing the whole-screen colour test and sticking my eyes an inch from the screen. lol. And I'm normally OCD about this stuff. I am incredibly happy.
> Mine also came in a super huge box fromm Green-Sum, filled with air bubbles. AND...I was surprised at this...he put in a a korea to american power plug converter in the box for me!!!


Awesome.

Now.. for the OC.









gogogo


----------



## stryker7314

Ordered a tempered glass one from Greensum in hopes of a B model, hope I get lucky this time.


----------



## ughnook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have more emails out to Chinese manufacturers - we will see if I get any responses! I found a PCB very close to the one we would need that comes from an LG 55" and is labeled as an "inverter."


Did you send an email to Catleap? They might even tell you why they changed boards. Doesn't hurt to try.


----------



## sonicBlue

Could someone please put me out of my misery and tell me if a sloping monitor can be corrected by propping something under the base.

Thanks, it's the only thing that's been stopping me from ordering one of these.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ughnook*
> 
> Did you send an email to Catleap? They might even tell you why they changed boards. Doesn't hurt to try.


I wouldn't bother unless you speak Korean -- but I'm sure someone here does.


----------



## eduardmc

So is it confirmed that all 2B can be overclocked.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> So is it confirmed that all 2B can be overclocked.


There's only a couple people here that even have the 2B -- it seems like they can be overclocked, but I'd like to see more people with 2Bs come forward.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> So is it confirmed that all 2B can be overclocked.


Let's see what HyperMatrix's can do. /waits


----------



## Shiftedbeef

The glass does not look removable to me. Looking at the non-glass ones vs the glass ones, it looks as if they have sealed a solid glass slate piece about 2cm thick right in front of the non-glass monitor. It looks great aesthetically though (subjective opinion).

If you display a darker image in a lighter room, you can barely make out your reflection. If the screen is black, you can definitely see your reflection.

Newer HQ closeups:


http://imgur.com/a841N


as for the texture on the front of the unit - when I run my finger across the power LED and volume printed-on icons the glass covers all of that (though it looks like the power button protrudes through the glass, it does not).
(In the 3rd photo it looks like there is *no* glass there but there is - it's flush with the very front of the bezel)

9/10 from green-sum it has 1 dead pixel which is teal but other than that is flawless


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> It does not look removable to me but I haven't taken apart the monitor yet. Looking at the non-glass ones vs the glass ones, it looks as if they have sealed a solid glass slate piece about 2cm thick right in front of the non-glass monitor. It looks great aesthetically though (subjective opinion).
> If you display a darker image in a lighter room, you can barely make out your reflection. If the screen is black, you can definitely see your reflection.
> Newer HQ closeups:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a841N
> 
> as for the texture on the front of the unit - when I run my finger across the power LED and volume printed-on icons the glass covers all of that (though it looks like the power button protrudes through the glass, it does not).
> (In the 3rd photo it looks like there is *no* glass there but there is - it's flush with the very front of the bezel)
> brb restarting to try this refresh rate thing. I'm not really sure what I'm supposed to do with this CRU.exe except add an identical resolution with "65hz" and then maybe try 70hz and see if it still works after a restart? If I hit OK and close the program and restart does that mean it will automatically go to the new resolution if I make it the 1st one in the "Detailed Resolutions" list?


Copy the settings in the 2560x1440 resolution already in there and add it as a custom resolution -- but change the refresh rate.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ughnook*
> 
> Did you send an email to Catleap? They might even tell you why they changed boards. Doesn't hurt to try.


Yes, from the manufacturer's website. I have asked for the DVI PCB and the Panel PCB plus cables. I am hoping one of these emails will get me in contact with the manufacturer of the boards.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Awesome.
> Now.. for the OC.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gogogo


Toastyx's server is down so I can't download his app. Trying to create a manual driver for the monitor but windows won't accept it for some reason. Can anyone post the cru-preview.zip file that toasty made to this thread itself?


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Toastyx's server is down so I can't download his app. Trying to create a manual driver for the monitor but windows won't accept it for some reason. Can anyone post the cru-preview.zip file that toasty made to this thread itself?


http://www.filedropper.com/cru


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> It does not look removable to me but I haven't taken apart the monitor yet. Looking at the non-glass ones vs the glass ones, it looks as if they have sealed a solid glass slate piece about 2cm thick right in front of the non-glass monitor. It looks great aesthetically though (subjective opinion).
> If you display a darker image in a lighter room, you can barely make out your reflection. If the screen is black, you can definitely see your reflection.
> Newer HQ closeups:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a841N
> 
> as for the texture on the front of the unit - when I run my finger across the power LED and volume printed-on icons the glass covers all of that (though it looks like the power button protrudes through the glass, it does not).
> (In the 3rd photo it looks like there is *no* glass there but there is - it's flush with the very front of the bezel)
> brb restarting to try this refresh rate thing. I'm not really sure what I'm supposed to do with this CRU.exe except add an identical resolution with "65hz" and then maybe try 70hz and see if it still works after a restart? If I hit OK and close the program and restart does that mean it will automatically go to the new resolution if I make it the 1st one in the "Detailed Resolutions" list?


The problem also with tempered is that not every manufacture can do it right and yamakasi really is unknown to us. Apple uses magnets to connets their glass to the monitor, They are using GLUE... scary.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

I have these settings saved and I just restarted everything works the same as it did before.



Does this mean my monitor is running at 85hz? What's the max I should go/try and what might be the recommended hz for a comfortable medium?


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> I have these settings saved and I just restarted everything works the same as it did before.
> 
> Does this mean my monitor is running at 85hz? What's the max I should go/try and what might be the recommended hz for a comfortable medium?


You've added the resolutions. Now go to advanced located in the screen shot in the left. There you can change the refresh rate.


----------



## erocker

Just picked one up! Thanks for bringing this monitor to our awareness! I've wanted something larger for my 7970 and I can't believe I just got one for under $400 bucks. Very excited!!!


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> I have these settings saved and I just restarted everything works the same as it did before.
> 
> Does this mean my monitor is running at 85hz? What's the max I should go/try and what might be the recommended hz for a comfortable medium?


What videocard do you have Shiftedbeef?


----------



## Demented

Well, I decided at this time to not try any oc at all. I'm having either issues with the monitor itself, or the cable they supplied. I don't have any other dual link cables to test.

I dismantled my Eyefinity setup, reorganized cables and such, and set the Catleap up. I'm getting a new stand for it tomorrow or the next day, but I was so happy with it that I wanted to just use it. However, during the re-setup process, the sparkly pixel thing that I had mentioned in my original post when it was delivered. After ensuring the cables were indeed attached firmly, (I think the DVI port on the Catleap is somewhat more sunken in than it should be. I'll take a look at that when I open it up to remove the stand and grey piece.) It was still doing it. Then I reversed the ends and tried again. Still sparkly, and serious flickering, scan line stuff, it looked ugly. I had connected my HDTV via HDMI when setting up so I tried removing that. It still was sparkly. Then I shut down again, massaged the cable (sounds dirty







) and booted up fine. And it's been that way for about an hour or so now.

So, with that, I just don't feel comfortable pushing a monitor until I can definitely nail down the source and correct it, if possible.

I still have to say that this monitor is amazing despite my issues. I haven't gamed much, but everything I load looks stunning. Blu-Rays look AMAZING!

It could be a driver issue too, so maybe if it happens again, I'll try reinstalling my drivers. If anyone else can suggest anything, I'm all ears.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Well, I decided at this time to not try any oc at all. I'm having either issues with the monitor itself, or the cable they supplied. I don't have any other dual link cables to test.
> I dismantled my Eyefinity setup, reorganized cables and such, and set the Catleap up. I'm getting a new stand for it tomorrow or the next day, but I was so happy with it that I wanted to just use it. However, during the re-setup process, the sparkly pixel thing that I had mentioned in my original post when it was delivered. After ensuring the cables were indeed attached firmly, (I think the DVI port on the Catleap is somewhat more sunken in than it should be. I'll take a look at that when I open it up to remove the stand and grey piece.) It was still doing it. Then I reversed the ends and tried again. Still sparkly, and serious flickering, scan line stuff, it looked ugly. I had connected my HDTV via HDMI when setting up so I tried removing that. It still was sparkly. Then I shut down again, massaged the cable (sounds dirty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) and booted up fine. And it's been that way for about an hour or so now.
> So, with that, I just don't feel comfortable pushing a monitor until I can definitely nail down the source and correct it, if possible.
> I still have to say that this monitor is amazing despite my issues. I haven't gamed much, but everything I load looks stunning. Blu-Rays look AMAZING!
> It could be a driver issue too, so maybe if it happens again, I'll try reinstalling my drivers. If anyone else can suggest anything, I'm all ears.


I have had similar issues with weird lines, black screens, etc when I used the supplied cables. With my aftermarket ones I have had zero issues.


----------



## HyperMatrix

I'm having trouble with the refresh rates. I can't really figure CRU out. Was able to get it to add 75hz to the list of refresh rates available, and I picked it, hit apply, monitor went black and came back in a second as though it accepted it, but...when I run mass effect 3, the fps is locked in at 62.

Edit: Nevermind. Tried in another game and it's locked in at 75 fps. Now to figure out how CRU works so I can put a higher refresh rate than 75 in there. But still...hitting 75 means it's OC-able. =D


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I'm having trouble with the refresh rates. I can't really figure CRU out. Was able to get it to add 75hz to the list of refresh rates available, and I picked it, hit apply, monitor went black and came back in a second as though it accepted it, but...when I run mass effect 3, the fps is locked in at 62.


ATI or Nvidia?

Actually, it appears that ME 3 may be capped at 62fps.

http://social.bioware.com/forum/1/topic/106/index/2833884/1

"The MaxSmoothFrameRate defaults to 62 which is exactly what you are seeing. You will need to edit the coalesed.ini file to change this. I use IronSpine's Coalesed Editor. "


----------



## Shiftedbeef

I have a 6870.

I have restarted about 20 times and played around....

Sometimes the hz selections show up on the "List All Modes" thing but sometimes they do not - it's weird. I haven't gotten "100hz" to show up yet on the modes list but so far I have gotten 70.
Any tips to force 100hz to show up on that list? It's already added in CRU...
Edit: for reference, my monitor is SE2B


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have had similar issues with weird lines, black screens, etc when I used the supplied cables. With my aftermarket ones I have had zero issues.


Looks like I'm off to Monoprice!


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> I have a 6870.
> I have restarted about 20 times and played around....
> Sometimes the hz selections show up on the "List All Modes" thing but sometimes they do not - it's weird. I haven't gotten "100hz" to show up yet on the modes list but so far I have gotten 70.
> Any tips to force 100hz to show up on that list? It's already added in CRU...


ATI cards are maxed at a pixel clock of 330mhz. You won't get 85hz unless you lower the total number of pixels in the editor. ToastyX posted the settings somewhere in one of these threads I believe


----------



## Demented

What's the difference between 28AWG and 24AWG? The 24 is listed as 'High Quality'.

28AWG

24AWG High Quality

Price difference is nominal, but the HQ is more expensive. Worth it?


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> What's the difference between 28AWG and 24AWG? The 24 is listed as 'High Quality'.
> 28AWG
> 24AWG High Quality
> Price difference is nominal, but the HQ is more expensive. Worth it?


It's just a thicker cable (the lower the gauge, the bigger the cable).

I think I had 24AWG's, and a couple 28AWG's. They both work fine, 24's are a bit harder to route though as they aren't as flexible. I'd go with 28AWG if I had the choice again probably.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> What's the difference between 28AWG and 24AWG? The 24 is listed as 'High Quality'.
> 28AWG
> 24AWG High Quality
> Price difference is nominal, but the HQ is more expensive. Worth it?


I use the 24s at home (and something similar at my office on the Catleaps) - cheap to get larger wire IMO.


----------



## stblazer

Has anyone had success overclocking the monitor with the non tempered + no speaker model? So far it looks like only the models with speakers and/or tempered glass can oc.


----------



## bhamhawker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Well, you need a true dual DVI cable. See post 4 for those confused.


Interestingly, I had 2 DVI-D cables already. Neither of them worked.

Then I realized that I hadn't tried the cable that came with the monitor (because it was too short for my desk). I moved some stuff around and got it fit....and voila! Working monitor.

Now I just have to get an Active DisplayPort Adapter for a 3rd monitor.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> Has anyone had success overclocking the monitor with the non tempered + no speaker model? So far it looks like only the models with speakers and/or tempered glass can oc.


Has nothing to do with glass or speakers. It's just based on the serial number. They changed controllers.

If it starts in Q270SE2B or Q270LED2B then there's a good chance you can overclock it. if it starts with Q270SE2C or Q270LED2C then you most likely can't.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> ATI cards are maxed at a pixel clock of 330mhz. You won't get 85hz unless you lower the total number of pixels in the editor. ToastyX posted the settings somewhere in one of these threads I believe











Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> What's the difference between 28AWG and 24AWG? The 24 is listed as 'High Quality'.
> 28AWG
> 24AWG High Quality
> Price difference is nominal, but the HQ is more expensive. Worth it?


The 24AWG is way too thick and hard to bend. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're doing very long cable runs, but I don't even see any longer than 15 feet. The 28AWG is fine for 6 feet.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> ATI cards are maxed at a pixel clock of 330mhz. You won't get 85hz unless you lower the total number of pixels in the editor. ToastyX posted the settings somewhere in one of these threads I believe


Oh wow thank you very much. There is a lot of discussion around and it's hard to pinpoint the right info.

I was able to enter in "330mhz" and 82hz popped up in my display resolutions.

I must say 82hz is DEFINITELY smoother than 60hz.
I could tell the difference when dragging an open folder in circles around the desktop. When minimizing and maximizing the motion looks more fluent instead of looking like a flipbook. At first I thought "Oh I might not notice anything.." and then I became a believer in faster hz.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> Oh wow thank you very much. There is a lot of discussion around and it's hard to pinpoint the right info.
> I was able to enter in "330mhz" and 82mhz popped up in my display resolutions.
> I must say 82mhz is DEFINITELY smoother than 60hz.
> I could tell the difference when dragging an open folder in circles around the desktop. At first I thought "Oh I might not notice anything.." and then I became a believer in faster hz.


So it appears the tempered glass version might still have the good controller. Little hair-dryer action and pull off that glass and viola.

Just waiting on a reply from green-sum if he can check serials before shipping and I'll buy 3 more


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> So it appears the tempered glass version might still have the good controller. Little hair-dryer action and pull off that glass and viola.
> Just waiting on a reply from green-sum if he can check serials before shipping and I'll buy 3 more


If a hair-dryer can pull off the glue, I'll be down as well. Let me know what he says.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> If a hair-dryer can pull off the glue, I'll be down as well. Let me know what he says.


Eh, I'm making assumptions but still. I was planning on going bezel-less anyways. Just have to find a way to mount the panel to VESA more easily. Might require some custom bracket made up.

So worst-case I just take off the front bezel


----------



## Demented

All set up:



Was this:


----------



## stryker7314

Do the multi input monitors overclock? Anyone with experience please chime in.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Looks like I'm off to Monoprice!


Monoprice is more expensive then this,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119388

OP, maybe list that in the OP as a cable alternative to the one in the box. 10Ft I think should be the general size most would want anyway.


----------



## b0z0

Looking good Demented. Enjoy the new monitor so far?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b0z0*
> 
> Looking good Demented. Enjoy the new monitor so far?


Other than my issues with what I think is the cable they supplied, YES!


----------



## b0z0

I'm almost wanting to ditch going to 120hz and go with the Catleap


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Other than my issues with what I think is the cable they supplied, YES!


Would there be noticable input lag/ slower response on this model due to the scaler? Maybe the scaler is only used on hdmi, and not dvi due to not needing scaling.

Also, who did you get yours from Demented?

How high did you get your refresh rate to?


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Do the multi input monitors overclock? Anyone with experience please chime in.


from what I have read between the 2 threads here, no. But I'm on my tablet and have not the patience to back that up right now.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Got it to 82hz. Stupid radeon 6970. I'll be upgrading to the new Kepler's once they come out in a few weeks here. From 82hz to 100hz is a 22%. That'll be exciting. =D Because as nice as it is now, I just know it'll get better.


----------



## stblazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Has nothing to do with glass or speakers. It's just based on the serial number. They changed controllers.
> If it starts in Q270SE2B or Q270LED2B then there's a good chance you can overclock it. if it starts with Q270SE2C or Q270LED2C then you most likely can't.


I know it doesn't, but those monitors seem to have the better controllers. The baseline SE models aren't overclockable, but it seems the speaker and tempered glass versions are. Can anyone confirm if the baseline SE model was even overcloackable to begin with? I don't think anyone here really confirmed that yet.


----------



## quentin

2C here fro, dream-seller. Even backlight, no dead/stuck pixel. 9/10 overall...had to knock a point off because it came slightly damaged, but nothing that would affect the display quality. Kind of bitter I didn't get one that could go to 100hz


----------



## rayjay

Anyone else get their package held up by customs? Ordered from dream-seller and tracking says it's been in customs (Los Angeles) since Saturday morning.

Ordered two catleaps (on the 6th) and dream-seller forgot to send both monitors last week. He appologized and mailed it out yesterday. So I have more customs ineptitude to look forward to.

Looking forward to getting my hand on these babies even though OC prospects don't look good. Already got some nice mounts.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> I know it doesn't, but those monitors seem to have the better controllers. The baseline SE models aren't overclockable, but it seems the speaker and tempered glass versions are. Can anyone confirm if the baseline SE model was even overcloackable to begin with? I don't think anyone here really confirmed that yet.


I thought the SE models were the original ones to OC? Has anyone had the base model (no glass or speakers, single input) overclocked yet or just the single input w/ speakers?


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Got it to 82hz. Stupid radeon 6970. I'll be upgrading to the new Kepler's once they come out in a few weeks here. From 82hz to 100hz is a 22%. That'll be exciting. =D Because as nice as it is now, I just know it'll get better.


Looks like I'm going tempered glass. Which seller? & without speakers?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> I know it doesn't, but those monitors seem to have the better controllers. The baseline SE models aren't overclockable, but it seems the speaker and tempered glass versions are. Can anyone confirm if the baseline SE model was even overcloackable to begin with? I don't think anyone here really confirmed that yet.


I've mentioned multiple times that mine is the one without speakers, and I already confirmed it can do higher refresh rates.

I posted how to get 85 Hz with ATI/AMD cards with my program:


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Looks like I'm going tempered glass. Which seller? & without speakers?


tempered glass without speakers mine came OC-able from green-sum.
edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I posted how to get 85 Hz with ATI/AMD cards with my program:


thank you


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

For now we are guessing with the SN issue. We have way too small of a sample size to conclude one way or the other. While it appears 2bs can be oc'd we don't have enough reporting in to be certain. I have 2 speakers and 1 can oc 1 cannot. You purchase 2 tempered and neither may oc. For now it appears to be a crapshoot. Later serial numbers, 2cs, are using older pcbs. Go figure.

What we do know is the parts necessary to oc any monitor regardless of options (which I think has nothing to do with the pcbs selected and installed). Hopefully I will start hearing back from my emails to suppliers so we might get our hands on some of these and test the theory.

Sent from my 4s using Tapatalk


----------



## tsm106

I wonder if whomever named this monitor was an otaku? It's got to be the best break out name for a monitor ever.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tsm106*
> 
> I wonder if whomever named this monitor was an otaku? It's got to be the best break out name for a monitor ever.


I keep wanting to call mine a Kamakazi Dogjump.


----------



## stblazer

I think the name is from the French parkour group.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yamakasi

Catleap is just a parkour move.


----------



## taurean

It turns out the Q270 SE I got is a 2B model, which based on commentary above should be overclockable. However, I have a GeForce GTX460 and the ATI settings don't seem to work. I tried poking around with it a bit without the utility but didn't have much luck. Has anyone successfully cranked up the hz with an Nvidia card yet?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Umm. Ya. Nvidia cards are the easiest to oc any monitor. Just create a custom resolution in the nvidia control panel.

Sent from my 4s using Tapatalk


----------



## HyperMatrix




----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taurean*
> 
> It turns out the Q270 SE I got is a 2B model, which based on commentary above should be overclockable. However, I have a GeForce GTX460 and the ATI settings don't seem to work. I tried poking around with it a bit without the utility but didn't have much luck. Has anyone successfully cranked up the hz with an Nvidia card yet?


How was the packaging?


----------



## eduardmc

This resolution is unbelievable. this is my second day with the monitor but is like this is the resolution that all pc user should be using. Gaming look super sharp, so much in bf3 i didn't have to use AA because is really not needed. could not tell the different between NO AA and 4XAA


----------



## Somenamehere

Got my mount but its too short ... had to order another one, feel like such an idiot.


----------



## taurean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Umm. Ya. Nvidia cards are the easiest to oc any monitor. Just create a custom resolution in the nvidia control panel.
> Sent from my 4s using Tapatalk


If it's that simple, then I suppose you can assume the 2B models don't all overclock that easily.

I went to the Nvidia control panel, customize, create custom resolution and tried to just increase the refresh rate there to 70, 80, etc, with no luck. Then I tried messing with the timing similar to has been mentioned in other posts and also had no luck.

The packaging was great, shipping ended up being overnight from Korea to Pennsylvania.


----------



## bQvle

Just ordered a second one (with tempered glass), even though i havent recived the first one.
Just in case the first one dont OC. i guess it shouldn't be big of a problem selling one of them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taurean*
> 
> If it's that simple, then I suppose you can assume the 2B models don't all overclock that easily.
> I went to the Nvidia control panel, customize, create custom resolution and tried to just increase the refresh rate there to 70, 80, etc, with no luck. Then I tried messing with the timing similar to has been mentioned in other posts and also had no luck.
> The packaging was great, shipping ended up being overnight from Korea to Pennsylvania.


Are you using the supplied Dual-DVI cabel? if so, try another one.


----------



## garycoleman

why the big deal to overlock the monitor? most are set at 60hz and they are fine. the refresh rate is a big deal with CRTs but not with LCDs When I get mine, I will leave it at 60hz


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

You're on ocn mate it's what we do.

Sent from my 4s using Tapatalk


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *garycoleman*
> 
> why the big deal to overlock the monitor? most are set at 60hz and they are fine. the refresh rate is a big deal with CRTs but not with LCDs When I get mine, I will leave it at 60hz


Guess you havent seen the difference. it matters, ALOT.
You are right the LCD doesnt flicker. but it still affects how many times the picture is updated on fast moving objects. 60hz just isn't smooth. shame on year 2012 that its still default.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> You're on ocn mate it's what we do.
> Sent from my 4s using Tapatalk


Yup, we would overclock a wristwatch if we could.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Yup, we would overclock a wristwatch if we could.


You can now. There are android powered digital watches now


----------



## Geglamash

Anyone OC theirs with an AMD/ATI card yet?
I'm trying to, but I seem a bit lost lol.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *taurean*
> 
> If it's that simple, then I suppose you can assume the 2B models don't all overclock that easily.
> I went to the Nvidia control panel, customize, create custom resolution and tried to just increase the refresh rate there to 70, 80, etc, with no luck. Then I tried messing with the timing similar to has been mentioned in other posts and also had no luck.
> The packaging was great, shipping ended up being overnight from Korea to Pennsylvania.


You sure it's 2B? Willing to open it up and take pictures?









Maybe it really is a lottery, if that's the case I might just order 3 Crossovers (Much better looking) and call it a day. I wasn't planning on having higher than 60hz a month ago. So not a big loss, not sure I have the patience to go parts hunting or buying a bunch of monitors and be disappointed. Also, who knows if these monitors are going to survive at 100hz for longer periods of time. Hard to say if we are stressing any components.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Anyone OC theirs with an AMD/ATI card yet?
> I'm trying to, but I seem a bit lost lol.


see first post on page 50


----------



## AMGRoadster

The monitor was supposed to be delivered today, no dice. The status shows up as out for delivery but it clearly is not being delivered today. Last time this happened the package sat in post office hell for 5 weeks before it was finally found and delivered.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I've mentioned multiple times that mine is the one without speakers, and I already confirmed it can do higher refresh rates.
> I posted how to get 85 Hz with ATI/AMD cards with my program:


Got some weird lines down the middle of my screen with those settings.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> You sure it's 2B? Willing to open it up and take pictures?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it really is a lottery, if that's the case I might just order 3 Crossovers (Much better looking) and call it a day. I wasn't planning on having higher than 60hz a month ago. So not a big loss, not sure I have the patience to go parts hunting or buying a bunch of monitors and be disappointed. Also, who knows if these monitors are going to survive at 100hz for longer periods of time. Hard to say if we are stressing any components.


To *taurean* -Open it up, open it up!!

Seriously - that would answer a lot of questions whether this is SN based or just pure luck of the draw. Heck, everyone should open them up now that I think about it!

Ugh, I'm not a fan of the Crossover bezel at all and hate the white back. To each his own!


----------



## votum

Just got mine. 10/10 condition wise, building a new desk so not able to check gaming with it but i am excited to do so


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *votum*
> 
> Just got mine. 10/10 condition wise, building a new desk so not able to check gaming with it but i am excited to do so


2B or 2C?


----------



## Geglamash

Got my 2B to 83Hz.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Got my 2B to 83Hz.


Who'd you buy from and when?


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Who'd you buy from and when?


Dream-seller, looooooooooong looong before anyone else. Mine was one of the original five Catleaps in his first Catleap listing; bought three weeks ago.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Hey Gang;

I placed a new form in post 4 re: your ability or lack thereof to OC your monitor. When you get a chance please complete the survey. *CLICK HERE FOR SURVEY*

Thanks!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Geglamash*
> 
> Dream-seller, looooooooooong looong before anyone else. Mine was one of the original five Catleaps in his first Catleap listing; bought three weeks ago.


You have me beat! I ordered my first on Feb 27.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Got some weird lines down the middle of my screen with those settings.


You might have better luck with one of these then:


----------



## hatfield113

Are any of the Ebay vendors still selling the 2b's? Or are they all shipping 2c's at this point?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hatfield113*
> 
> Are any of the Ebay vendors still selling the 2b's? Or are they all shipping 2c's at this point?


It's unclear at this point; some of us have sent messages to the sellers to try and ascertain what 2B stock still exists (if 2Bs can even be guaranteed to OC) but I don't think anybody has heard back yet.


----------



## necriss

I think 2Bs are sold out, everyone I know of has been getting 2C2 stock.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> I think 2Bs are sold out, everyone I know of has been getting 2C2 stock.


All the catleap tempered glass ones (so far) have been B's as they sold 9 vs 161 of the regulars. So they have old stock still. Or had. No idea if still any left. I also messaged greensum asking if I could get a B model one with the extra $60 fee for a guaranteed 0 dead pixel policy that he now has advertised.


----------



## larrydavid

We need to see if we can get one of these sellers to sell us the PCBANK 3VIEW PB2700. It has a higher contrast ratio(1200:1) and lower response times(2ms less) than the Catleap and Achieva.

http://www.playwares.com/xe/21449199
http://www.playwares.com/xe/20531018


----------



## utnorris

Got my tracking info. Hopefully it will be here before the weekend since it is coming Fedex. Dcsamsungmall shipped less than 24 hours. Who knows, maybe I will get a 2B since he hasn't sold a lot of them like the other sellers.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> We need to see if we can get one of these sellers to sell us the PCBANK 3VIEW PB2700. It has a higher contrast ratio(1200:1) and lower response times(2ms less) than the Catleap and Achieva.
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/21449199
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/20531018


2ms respond time would mean that it's not an IPS display.


----------



## KuuFA

OK well I just got home and I had to take it apart due to me putting it on a table mount. here are some pics

These are pics of *2C* I haven't tried to OC the panel as my eyes are still amazed at the quality.


Spoiler: Pics of package (ordered from Green Sum on the 5th of March)







^I guess it was kinda nice that he included a converter for US plugs!






Spoiler: Pics of the Disassembled panel Remember this is a 2c model.











Hope these pictures Help!! if you need anymore I have a few more.... Just lmk!


----------



## larrydavid

red-cap responded to me on ebay with this tidbit:

Hi
I have got the information for the S/N from the company
the B and C means the month when the monitor was made
A-January
B-February
C-March

thank you
choi


----------



## politiclaw

Edit: Ha! And so someone beat me to it! Anyway, hopefully this small bit of info proves interesting or helpful in some form.

Got some possibly interesting info from red-cap. I asked him if he had any more or could potentially check to see if he had any more "B" monitors. He didn't quite answer the question but he did mention something else:

"Hi
I have got the information for the S/N from the company
the B and C
means the month when the monitor was
made
A-January
B-February
C-March

thank you
choi

-red-cap"

Just thought that might be worth sharing. I don't have a monitor yet, but I'm close to picking one up. Anyway, thanks to everyone who has been willing to leave some info in the thread. It's all been appreciated (if not overwhelming!).


----------



## alricking

Interesting following people having hard time overclocking catleap to 97hz-100hz. I was about to overclock it to 97hz with ease on my gtx 9300 GE. But when I try to overclock it to 100hz it won't work. Even after I apply ToastyX instruction to lower the pixel down. But I wouldn't sweat it since 97hz to 100hz is only 3hz







don't think anyone would notice 3hz difference.

BTW this is the one I got from dream-seller ..when it was 439.99.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220961456249?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2648#ht_9540wt_960


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Glass - No Speakers - 68-85hz (haven't tested any higher) - Radeon 6870 - Q270SE2B1

Images of the insides:


http://imgur.com/pXY12


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> Glass - No Speakers - 68-85hz (haven't tested any higher) - Radeon 6870 - Q270SE2B1
> Images of the insides:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/pXY12


Would love to see more external pics and impressions of the glass.








The ones already posted weren't that great.


----------



## votum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> 2B or 2C?


Assuming thats the end of the serial? 12bA


----------



## politiclaw

For those hoping to get some "B" monitors from red-cap, well, you'll want to try your luck elsewhere. red-cap informed me he has no more available.


----------



## CTM Audi

I got the same message from red-cap about the letter being the month maid. I asked him if he could send me a B if he had it, but if not no problem. Tired of holding up the shipment with questions, probably wont be here before the weekend now.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Would love to see more external pics and impressions of the glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The ones already posted weren't that great.





http://imgur.com/nsSNG

pic1 = top right
pic2 = bottom left
pic3 = bottom back (speaker holes and hole for audio input but nothing there)


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/nsSNG
> 
> pic1 = top right
> pic2 = bottom left
> pic3 = bottom back (speaker holes and hole for audio input but nothing there)


THNX
The rear doesn't look anything like the other Catleaps and whole bezel looks a lot thicker too.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> The rear doesn't look anything like the other Catleaps and whole bezel looks a lot thicker too.


I have removed the silver plastic plate on the back and I removed the stand because I plan to mount the monitor soon.


----------



## alricking

guys, I heard from the other thread, someone manage to overclock to 103hz? which monitor was it that able to do that Catleap or Archivia? ..


----------



## ughnook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> We need to see if we can get one of these sellers to sell us the PCBANK 3VIEW PB2700. It has a higher contrast ratio(1200:1) and lower response times(2ms less) than the Catleap and Achieva.
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/21449199
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/20531018


The Gamma is 2.10, much better than the Catleap and Shimian at 1.92
Is the gamma difference noticeable?
http://www.playwares.com/xe/20530977


----------



## votum

I'm in love with this thing! Went our and bought a new desk to celebrate lol. However the stand on the catleap sits 1/8" too tall to fit into the hutch so I need a new one lol. Thinking about mounting it to the wall but I don't know if I have a stud in the right spot. I do have some awesome anchors but wondering if there is a better stand. If not I'll just cut a hole and mount it through the hutch.


----------



## alricking

ANyone with Catleap and using Nvidia card...what's your setting for:

Brightness=?
Contrast=?
Gamma?
digital vibrance?

mine at:

B= 45%
C= 45%
Gamma= 70%
DV= 68%


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ughnook*
> 
> The Gamma is 2.10, much better than the Catleap and Shimian at 1.92
> Is the gamma difference noticeable?
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/20530977


As I mentioned before though, those are TN displays. I guarantee not even half the people who bought the catleap displays would have bought it if it were TN and not IPS like the catleap/shimian/crossover which is a huge part of what makes them good displays that everyone is running out and buying!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Got my mount but its too short ... had to order another one, feel like such an idiot.


Which mount/stand did you get?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> THNX
> The rear doesn't look anything like the other Catleaps and whole bezel looks a lot thicker too.


It looks like you're seeing the side of the catleap in the rear pics, but it's the bottom. That big gaping squarish hole is where the stand was.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> It looks like you're seeing the side of the catleap in the rear pics, but it's the bottom. That big gaping squarish hole is where the stand was.


Now that explains a LOT.
Been staring at that image a lot and just couldn't figure it out.


----------



## Demented

Has anyone that paid extra for a seller to check their monitor, received it yet? I'm interested to see if/how the package was opened, as I think the sellers are saying they will check, but that leaves them open for other issues sine you then receive the monitor in an _*opened*_ box, which is contrary to the listing.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Has anyone that paid extra for a seller to check their monitor, received it yet? I'm interested to see if/how the package was opened, as I think the sellers are saying they will check, but that leaves them open for other issues sine you then receive the monitor in an _*opened*_ box, which is contrary to the listing.


I'm not even sure the sellers are the ones opening them and checking.
look at the *New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor* sold by green-sum on ebay. (i guess i cannot post links yet , sorry)

Anyway it says.
**Please contact us if you are interested in Zero-Defects product.
Zero-defection Test (by Manufacturer)(+$60,extra days)*


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> I'm not even sure the sellers are the ones opening them and checking.
> look at the *New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor* sold by green-sum on ebay. (i guess i cannot post links yet , sorry)
> Anyway it says.
> **Please contact us if you are interested in Zero-Defects product.
> Zero-defection Test (by Manufacturer)(+$60,extra days)*


Interesting. That would make a lot of people feel much better about taking the plunge on one of these. Good find. Thanks!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Has anyone that paid extra for a seller to check their monitor, received it yet? I'm interested to see if/how the package was opened, as I think the sellers are saying they will check, but that leaves them open for other issues sine you then receive the monitor in an _*opened*_ box, which is contrary to the listing.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not even sure the sellers are the ones opening them and checking.
> look at the *New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor* sold by green-sum on ebay. (i guess i cannot post links yet , sorry)
> 
> Anyway it says.
> **Please contact us if you are interested in Zero-Defects product.
> Zero-defection Test (by Manufacturer)(+$60,extra days)*
Click to expand...

Yeah and says it could still come with up to five dead pixels


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Yeah and says it could still come with up to five dead pixels


Yeah, that chart is disturbing.


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Which mount/stand did you get?
> It looks like you're seeing the side of the catleap in the rear pics, but it's the bottom. That big gaping squarish hole is where the stand was.


Just picked up this one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

Previously bought this one

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082802&p_id=8098&seq=1&format=2

Stupid me didn't measure the distance from the stud in the wall. Monoprice is sold out of their 3 way mounts so I went with the one from amazon. Next day shipping is also a big plus should have it Thursday.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Just picked up this one.
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details
> Previously bought this one
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082802&p_id=8098&seq=1&format=2
> Stupid me didn't measure the distance from the stud in the wall. Monoprice is sold out of their 3 way mounts so I went with the one from amazon. Next day shipping is also a big plus should have it Thursday.


Ah, I ordered a stand instead. Should be here tomorrow (technically today) or Thursday at the latest.

This one.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Yeah, that chart is disturbing.


I thought the chart was for the regular ones...not the ones you paid the extra $60 for.







Damn.

And honestly, I think every single monitor here has dead, bright, or odd pixels. But they're just so tiny you don't see them under most colours. I've found 3. And even though I'm looking for them now...I can only see 1 of them. That's why these monitors are so cheap. The ones with no pixel issues are sold at a higher price to the bigger manufacturers. These guys bought the somewhat defective panels and made some much cheaper monitors with them. Considering the OC-ability, it's well worth it.

Before it arrived, I thought it'd bother me a lot if I had dead pixels but honestly, can't even see them. There's just 1 of them that's easier to spot. And the tempered glass looks amazing. Though I wish it were removable so I could massage the pixels back to life!


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I thought the chart was for the regular ones...not the ones you paid the extra $60 for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn.
> And honestly, I think every single monitor here has dead, bright, or odd pixels. But they're just so tiny you don't see them under most colours. I've found 3. And even though I'm looking for them now...I can only see 1 of them. That's why these monitors are so cheap. The ones with no pixel issues are sold at a higher price to the bigger manufacturers. These guys bought the somewhat defective panels and made some much cheaper monitors with them. Considering the OC-ability, it's well worth it.
> Before it arrived, I thought it'd bother me a lot if I had dead pixels but honestly, can't even see them. There's just 1 of them that's easier to spot. And the tempered glass looks amazing. Though I wish it were removable so I could massage the pixels back to life!


Using a monitor testing program, after really staring I still see no bad pixels.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I thought the chart was for the regular ones...not the ones you paid the extra $60 for.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Damn.
> And honestly, I think every single monitor here has dead, bright, or odd pixels. But they're just so tiny you don't see them under most colours. I've found 3. And even though I'm looking for them now...I can only see 1 of them. That's why these monitors are so cheap. The ones with no pixel issues are sold at a higher price to the bigger manufacturers. These guys bought the somewhat defective panels and made some much cheaper monitors with them. Considering the OC-ability, it's well worth it.
> Before it arrived, I thought it'd bother me a lot if I had dead pixels but honestly, can't even see them. There's just 1 of them that's easier to spot. And the tempered glass looks amazing. Though I wish it were removable so I could massage the pixels back to life!


You may be right on the chart, I honestly don't know.
But it does say... *Zero Defection Test.....* with the chart and *More Than 5 dead pixel is Defective* right below it.

So you like the tempered glass and you don't have a dust or anything between the glass and the display?

I'm asking because i'm ordering one today and still cannot decide to get glass or not.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> You may be right on the chart, I honestly don't know.
> But it does say... *Zero Defection Test.....* with the chart and *More Than 5 dead pixel is Defective* right below it.
> So you like the tempered glass and you don't have a dust or anything between the glass and the display?
> I'm asking because i'm ordering one today and still cannot decide to get glass or not.


Atleast the 7th straight day I've been on the same fence.

At this point, I just might buy a Crossover instead of a possible OC'able tempered glass Catleap.


----------



## jbuschdev

My new stance on dead/stuck pixels is just not to check for them. If you don't notice them without getting an inch away from the screen, you're probably not going to notice them through normal usage. There's nearly 4 million pixels on these screens and you're upset that 1 or 2 of them don't work? Any of the new displays I'm getting I will not be testing. All it does is ruin the experience if you notice it every time you use it. But if you're oblivious then it all works out









If the whole 2B / 2C overclocking thing is a lottery, I think I'll still just get 3 crossovers. I sent a message to some buying agent and it seems like the Crossovers are on gmarket for $260. Grab 3 of those + their fee and shipping and it should still be $100-150 cheaper than Dreamseller, assuming they're willing to ship something that big. If not, I'll talk to Dreamseller...

Also the more I research, the cooler stuff I find.

Apparently people are buying up these 27" panels and controllers and building their own displays. Best part is they have better stands/casings than any of these Korean versions. (Most of these DIY displays seem to be from China).

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=12693318641

Looks awesome, the shell wraps exactly around the panel itself, no wasting bezel space. Looks like that one is DP only, and the stand is a bit extra.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> You may be right on the chart, I honestly don't know.
> But it does say... *Zero Defection Test.....* with the chart and *More Than 5 dead pixel is Defective* right below it.
> So you like the tempered glass and you don't have a dust or anything between the glass and the display?
> I'm asking because i'm ordering one today and still cannot decide to get glass or not.


I'm ordering a second unit and getting glass again. It's really very very good looking. I have no dust or anything under my glass. But I do have a few pixels I'm unable to massage out because of that very same glass.







Most people who had dust or hair under their glass said they tapped it for a bit (not sure how hard) and the dust/hair fell to the bottom and was no longer visible.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I'm ordering a second unit and getting glass again. It's really very very good looking. I have no dust or anything under my glass. But I do have a few pixels I'm unable to massage out because of that very same glass.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Most people who had dust or hair under their glass said they tapped it for a bit (not sure how hard) and the dust/hair fell to the bottom and was no longer visible.


I have chance to grab one that has zero dead pixels without glass from someone here in the US that wants to sell his.
Or i can take a chance and order one with glass and hope for the best.

Its so darn hard to decide, i may just put windows up side by side on my desktop for each of them and let my wife pic one when she gets up, just to get this over with.

*EDIT:* Does anyone here know if the glass will effect using a Datacolor Spyder4 Colorimeter to calibrate the display?


----------



## jagz

Just ordered a Crossover. Say's up to 75hz so.... I sure hope so!
Quote:


> •Verticality frequency: 56 ~ 75 Hz


We're going to need that Crossover club









Ordered from dream-seller, $409.


----------



## quakermaas

Is the glass part of the panel ?

Can the glass be removed if I was to dismantle the monitor, if I got one ?

Right now I am thinking of getting the non glass panel monitor.

Originally Posted by *jagz* 

Just ordered a Crossover. Say's up to 75hz so.... I sure hope so!

Quote:


> •Verticality frequency: 56 ~ 75 Hz


We're going to need that Crossover club









Ordered from dream-seller, $409.

What are the advantages of the Crossover monitor ?


----------



## Demented

OK guys, I'm having a problem getting the LUT loader to load the color profile on startup. I have placed the shortcut in All Users, and just me and neither will load upon boot. I know this, because if I double click the shortcut on the desktop, the color profile changes.

I've also made it run as admin. Any other suggestions? It's not that big of a deal, but I'd much rather have it auto, than having to remember to click it each time. I definitely want to use the loader, since I can totally see the difference in gradients.

EDIT: I have gotten it to work by right clicking the shortcut, selecting properties, and then the advanced tab. There I checked run as admin. Previously I had done it under compatibility, and that hadn't worked. Going through the advanced tab was what finally allowed it to start up automatically.


----------



## eduardmc

anyway to read display screen maker or model with a software. I'm asking this cause if they are replacing things and changing serial number every month it can also be that they might start using cheaper ips screen.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> anyway to read display screen maker or model with a software. I'm asking this cause if they are replacing things and changing serial number every month it can also be that they might start using cheaper ips screen.


Try this

http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm

I used this to get panel info on laptops, without taking them apart.

Gives good info on panel, this is the monitor in my sig.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Try this
> 
> http://www.entechtaiwan.com/util/moninfo.shtm
> 
> I used this to get panel info on laptops, with taking them apart.


Ok, so the ID on the monitor is HYO049B

I search online and this is the ID for the corret IPS screen HAZRO HZ27 which sells in UK for around $1000. This is also the same screen for the imac ips screen.

This should be in the OP info so people can confirm they do indeed have the right IPS screen. We are not sure how much longer they will be using this screen. This deal has hit slickdeal so soon every seller will be out of stock and manufacture will be force to use different screen only to meet suppliers demand.


----------



## Clovertail100

Just ordered my first. Tempered glass + speakers from Green-Sum for $398.


----------



## ughnook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> As I mentioned before though, those are TN displays. I guarantee not even half the people who bought the catleap displays would have bought it if it were TN and not IPS like the catleap/shimian/crossover which is a huge part of what makes them good displays that everyone is running out and buying!


Says Super-IPS
http://www.playwares.com/xe/20530962


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mookster*
> 
> Just ordered my first. Tempered glass + speakers from Green-Sum for $398.


I did too, when i did it said 4 sold, so i guess you're why it says 5 now.








Anyway, thnx for everyone here who made me buy something i didnt need...LOL

I'm not sure how much help i will be here though, i cannot see me tearing down my new monitor once i get it for fear of something going wrong.
I "may" try to overclock it just to see and post the results though, but i doubt i'll run it over 60hz for daily use for fear of damaging the display.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> I have chance to grab one that has zero dead pixels without glass from someone here in the US that wants to sell his.
> Or i can take a chance and order one with glass and hope for the best.
> Its so darn hard to decide, i may just put windows up side by side on my desktop for each of them and let my wife pic one when she gets up, just to get this over with.
> *EDIT:* Does anyone here know if the glass will effect using a Datacolor Spyder4 Colorimeter to calibrate the display?


If it's 0 dead pixels and it's one you an OC (b model) then yeah dude...you can't beat that...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ughnook*
> 
> Says Super-IPS
> http://www.playwares.com/xe/20530962


This link also says 6ms response time. As I said, if it's 2ms response time, it's not an IPS display.


----------



## HyperMatrix

And greensum just told me he can't check/verify which model numbers they're sending out so I can't request a B or a C version. And he said $60 for a factory checked panel. Still could have up to 4 bad pixels and be considered OK, despite having paid the extra $60. Don't think it's worth it since I don't think anyone has received a panel with 5 or more dead pixels anyway...


----------



## Chobbit

This really is an amazing deal, I've been trying to follow this thread and the Achieva/Catleap thread in the last 24 hours but so much has happened in such a short time with these that It'll probably take a week before I catch up with everything. I'm thinking about selling my 3 surround monitors and switching to one of these but like others I have a few questions I still need to get cleared up.

What does the Tempered Glass do and is it better to have it or not?

Can this monitor run a PS3 with a HDMI to DVI adaptor? and if so does the monitor (which i'm aware doesn't have an OSD) up-scale okay? The reason I ask this is I still need a monitor for my partner to play her PS3 on when im not on the PC so if this can't I may only be able to sell 2 of my 3 monitors.

Do I need any special plugs for the UK (Ive seen alot about not needing anything special if your in the US)

Also I just want to know what the difference between these auction versions are (Remember Im ordering to the UK):


YAMAKASI CATLEAP 27" Q270 SE Tempered glass (I'm guessing this is just the glass?)

YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 27" S-IPS DVI In-speaker Monitor + Tempered glass (Is this the speakers and glass? is the S-IPS important?)

YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 27" WQHD DVI-D Monitor *Built-in speaker (Speakers but no glass? Whats WQHD?)

YAMAKASI CATLEAPQ270 MULTI 27" S-IPS Stereo Gaming Monitor

Really appreciate the help and really hope I can decide on this monitor and join the club.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> This really is an amazing deal, I've been trying to follow this thread and the Achieva/Catleap thread in the last 24 hours but so much has happened in such a short time with these that It'll probably take a week before I catch up with everything. I'm thinking about selling my 3 surround monitors and switching to one of these but like others I have a few questions I still need to get cleared up.
> What does the Tempered Glass do and is it better to have it or not?
> Can this monitor run a PS3 with a HDMI to DVI adaptor? and if so does the monitor (which i'm aware doesn't have an OSD) up-scale okay? The reason I ask this is I still need a monitor for my partner to play her PS3 on when im not on the PC so if this can't I may only be able to sell 2 of my 3 monitors.
> Do I need any special plugs for the UK (Ive seen alot about not needing anything special if your in the US)
> Also I just want to know what the difference between these auction versions are (Remember Im ordering to the UK):
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP 27" Q270 SE Tempered glass (I'm guessing this is just the glass?)
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 27" S-IPS DVI In-speaker Monitor + Tempered glass (Is this the speakers and glass? is the S-IPS important?)
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 27" WQHD DVI-D Monitor *Built-in speaker (Speakers but no glass? Whats WQHD?)
> YAMAKASI CATLEAPQ270 MULTI 27" S-IPS Stereo Gaming Monitor
> Really appreciate the help and really hope I can decide on this monitor and join the club.


All your descriptions of the various models are correct. The "gaming monitor" just indicates it has multiple inputs (hdmi) so you can plug in your ps3/xbox. Tempered glass does 3 things. 1) Protects your LCD. 2) Gives a one-glass-pane that covers the entire front of the monitor. So no plastic bezels/etc...the entire front is one nice flat sheet of glass. 3) It removes your ability to massage dead pixels back to life and there's a risk of dust being behind the glass from the factory. If you're planning on multi-use and need a scaler, the gaming monitor version is likely the best choice for you. As for the power plug, you just need to use a standard computer power cord that will plug in to the outlet and connect to the rest of the adapter which is attached to the TV. Greensum put a converter in the box for me at no charge without even telling me. And now I'm off to bed. Cheers.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> If it's 0 dead pixels and it's one you an OC (b model) then yeah dude...you can't beat that...


It didn't overclock, which didnt matter to me anyway.
He has it on ebay now.


----------



## bQvle

Im so screwed! just pulled the plug and ordered the 3. monitor before even the first is delivered. im just so paranoid not getting the B2 version.
but i guess it will be no problem selling them to friends etc.

On the way:
Q270SE
Q270SE Tempered Glass
Q270LED Tempered Glass

Please!! at least let one be the Febuary B2 version!

*EDIT:* Just tried to cancel my first order on the Q270SE, if it isnt shipped yet, i guess he doesnt have them on stock = ill 100% get a March C2 version. Really no point of getting that one! hope they can stop it.

Seller: Green-sum


----------



## Mr Ripper

I'm happy that the screen is perfect pixel wise. The screen was slightly on the green side but doing a quick calibration in windows seemed to sort that easy enough.

I really hope the circuit boards can be acquired. I want to eventually get it up to at least 85hz. Even if it was desoldering and resoldering a chip on the circuit board I'd do it.

Mine is a 2C and as said before it was ordered from green-sum Friday 8th, delivered Monday 10th (to the UK) - Came in the big box with padding around the monitor box as posted many times already.


----------



## trry

gtx560ti x2 SLI
No Glass or speaker...

I am trying to get my gamma correct since the picture sample didn't look smooth. =/ I will do more testing later.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> I'm happy that the screen is perfect pixel wise. The screen was slightly on the green side but doing a quick calibration in windows seemed to sort that easy enough.
> I really hope the circuit boards can be acquired. I want to eventually get it up to at least 85hz. Even if it was desoldering and resoldering a chip on the circuit board I'd do it.
> Btw is it possible to add my info to the form and update it with more info at a later date? I don't have all of it yet (photos).


Did you adjust the colors using nvidia/ati control panel or with what. We have to get the greenish off. In my nvidia contro panel in increases the red brigness and contrast by 2% (52% on both) and it look really good. Digital vibrancy @ 55%


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> My new stance on dead/stuck pixels is just not to check for them. If you don't notice them without getting an inch away from the screen, you're probably not going to notice them through normal usage. There's nearly 4 million pixels on these screens and you're upset that 1 or 2 of them don't work? Any of the new displays I'm getting I will not be testing. All it does is ruin the experience if you notice it every time you use it. But if you're oblivious then it all works out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If the whole 2B / 2C overclocking thing is a lottery, I think I'll still just get 3 crossovers. I sent a message to some buying agent and it seems like the Crossovers are on gmarket for $260. Grab 3 of those + their fee and shipping and it should still be $100-150 cheaper than Dreamseller, assuming they're willing to ship something that big. If not, I'll talk to Dreamseller...
> Also the more I research, the cooler stuff I find.
> *Apparently people are buying up these 27" panels and controllers and building their own displays. Best part is they have better stands/casings than any of these Korean versions. (Most of these DIY displays seem to be from China).
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=12693318641
> Looks awesome, the shell wraps exactly around the panel itself, no wasting bezel space. Looks like that one is DP only, and the stand is a bit extra. [*/quote]
> 
> How can we get one of THESE? I would MUCH MUCH MUCH rather have a single DP connction than the dual-link DVI (DP is what was developed to replace DVI).
> 
> Any information on getting one of these would be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It would essentially be the same exact setup as an Apple Thunderbolt display minus the fancy casing.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> Did you adjust the colors using nvidia/ati control panel or with what. We have to get the greenish off. In my nvidia contro panel in increases the red brigness and contrast by 2% (52% on both) and it look really good. Digital vibrancy @ 55%


In windows 7 I just used the built in colour calibration wizard to make a profile. You get to set the colours to try and make some grey bars show with no colour. Seemed to work well.


----------



## SJetski71

edit: nm


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> OK guys, I'm having a problem getting the LUT loader to load the color profile on startup. I have placed the shortcut in All Users, and just me and neither will load upon boot. I know this, because if I double click the shortcut on the desktop, the color profile changes.
> I've also made it run as admin. Any other suggestions? It's not that big of a deal, but I'd much rather have it auto, than having to remember to click it each time. I definitely want to use the loader, since I can totally see the difference in gradients.
> EDIT: I have gotten it to work by right clicking the shortcut, selecting properties, and then the advanced tab. There I checked run as admin. Previously I had done it under compatibility, and that hadn't worked. Going through the advanced tab was what finally allowed it to start up automatically.


Use this LUT loader called Monitor Calibration Wizard, it will sit in your system tray and constantly enforce the LUT even if an app tries to change it (which most games do). Plus it stores the LUT as a hex editable file so you can tweak your shadow detail manually. Be sure to disable windows7 LUT loader otherwise that will interfere with it.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> *Apparently people are buying up these 27" panels and controllers and building their own displays. Best part is they have better stands/casings than any of these Korean versions. (Most of these DIY displays seem to be from China).
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=12693318641
> Looks awesome, the shell wraps exactly around the panel itself, no wasting bezel space. Looks like that one is DP only, and the stand is a bit extra.*
> 
> 
> 
> How can we get one of THESE? I would MUCH MUCH MUCH rather have a single DP connction than the dual-link DVI (DP is what was developed to replace DVI).
> Any information on getting one of these would be awesome
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . It would essentially be the same exact setup as an Apple Thunderbolt display minus the fancy casing.
Click to expand...

I've emailed a few taobao agents (people that buy stuff for you and ship it overseas). Maybe there's a bigger discount if we order a larger quantity, or maybe not.

Just waiting on replies, Google translate isn't great and I'd like to find out more info about the displays. Also my 5870 only has a single DP port right now. Hopefully Kepler has a few more if I went this route, as I'm not aware of any DVI to DP adapters (I know of the reverse, DP to DVI)

Here's a few more I found... including what looks like the actual enclosure they sell for DIYer's

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14386151216
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14581124673
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13991059158
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10692885897


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> I've emailed a few taobao agents (people that buy stuff for you and ship it overseas). Maybe there's a bigger discount if we order a larger quantity, or maybe not.
> Just waiting on replies, Google translate isn't great and I'd like to find out more info about the displays. Also my 5870 only has a single DP port right now. Hopefully Kepler has a few more if I went this route, as I'm not aware of any DVI to DP adapters (I know of the reverse, DP to DVI)
> Here's a few more I found... including what looks like the actual enclosure they sell for DIYer's
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14386151216
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14581124673
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13991059158
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10692885897


Awesome! Keep us posted for sure.

Any newer card is filled w/ DP. Most new laptops have DP for their video out, etc. Anyone who games is going to have a newer video card anyway which all have DP on them. Hell, the new ATI cards actually use less power when using DP over DVI (their minimum power draw is lower).

The casing is a ton better too on that. Very minimalist. I dig it and would order one in a heartbeat! Let me know if you are able to get them.


----------



## jbuschdev

Couple of those listed ( more expensive ones ) have DVI controllers. So the cheaper ones are actually DP.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14581124673

This one looks the most promising... Minimalistic, includes free HP stand (looks decent) DP Input and according to panelook.com it has a better panel than the Catleaps. 2200 yuan == $347.31, so still decent price.

http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=13437 (TaoBao DIY)
vs
http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=4999 (Catleap etc.)

Not by much, but 380 vs. 420 brightness... and it started production 2010, vs. the Catleap revision was started in 2008.


----------



## minnus

Are you guys looking for a frame that will fit our controller/panels?

I took mine apart, hoping that there was a way to mount it barebone like the U2410 (has VESA mounting points on the metal frame). Unfortunately, it doesn't seem possible. I would love a slimmer/matted frame.


----------



## Derpinheimer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> This link also says 6ms response time. As I said, if it's 2ms response time, it's not an IPS display.


If you even skimmed the review it's blatantly obvious that the 3view PB2700 is IPS.

Offered red-cap $360 for a Catleap, he accepted [best offer, maybe he gives 'low-ballers' less of a discount?'] Later requested to switch to the multi model, but he said the lowest he could go was $450 [although at the time, others had it for $420]

Asked for the Achieva Tempered Glass model instead, then, for $375 and he said he'd ship it free of additional charge. I'm more than pleased with $360 for the Achieva version. Ordered Sunday, swapped to Achieva Monday -- no tracking number yet.


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> All your descriptions of the various models are correct. The "gaming monitor" just indicates it has multiple inputs (hdmi) so you can plug in your ps3/xbox. Tempered glass does 3 things. 1) Protects your LCD. 2) Gives a one-glass-pane that covers the entire front of the monitor. So no plastic bezels/etc...the entire front is one nice flat sheet of glass. 3) It removes your ability to massage dead pixels back to life and there's a risk of dust being behind the glass from the factory. If you're planning on multi-use and need a scaler, the gaming monitor version is likely the best choice for you. As for the power plug, you just need to use a standard computer power cord that will plug in to the outlet and connect to the rest of the adapter which is attached to the TV. Greensum put a converter in the box for me at no charge without even telling me. And now I'm off to bed. Cheers.


Thanks for the info, appreciate it. What's the fuss on these B2 revisions though?

Also is it totally free to the UK or have there been cases of import charges?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> Thanks for the info, appreciate it. What's the fuss on these B2 revisions though?


The 2B revisions are older manufacturing dates, and are suspected of being more likely of including a better set of internal driver boards that is capable of running at high refresh rates (up to 100Hz) whereas the 2C (later) variants use a (IMO cheaper) set that won't go higher than about 65-67Hz or so. Weirdly enough, the date on the boards themselves is later on the earlier monitors, so go figure...

Edit: Clarification


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> The 2B revisions are older manufacturing dates, and are suspected of being more likely of including a better set of internal driver boards that is capable of running at high refresh rates (up to 100Hz) whereas the 2C (later) variants use a cheaper set that won't go higher than about 65-67Hz or so. Weirdly enough, the date on the boards themselves is later on the earlier monitors, so go figure...


There's no evidence that one board is cheaper than another. It could have been modified for cost, supply, and/or reliability issues. None of us can know.


----------



## jbuschdev

Learned from my Taobao agent that this is the better panel (LG A quality, same ones Apple/Dell get)

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14683772836

~$30 more than the other one, which was also listed as "used" not "new" like this one. Not sure if that was a translation error or what.

Otherwise at $1135 for 3 of these, minus all the other costs that we have to figure out now.


----------



## siberx

Well, unless there's a large difference in cost between the boards themselves (unlikely, as the layouts and chip counts are similar) the newer non-OC designs definitely use a cheaper, simpler wiring and connector set. I should have clarified that reduced cost is my own interpretation, but I would be hard pressed to believe that the single slim connector and cabling in the 2Cs is somehow more expensive to build than the dual socketed connections used on the earlier 2Bs.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> I've emailed a few taobao agents (people that buy stuff for you and ship it overseas). Maybe there's a bigger discount if we order a larger quantity, or maybe not.
> Just waiting on replies, Google translate isn't great and I'd like to find out more info about the displays. Also my 5870 only has a single DP port right now. Hopefully Kepler has a few more if I went this route, as I'm not aware of any DVI to DP adapters (I know of the reverse, DP to DVI)
> Here's a few more I found... including what looks like the actual enclosure they sell for DIYer's
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14386151216
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14581124673
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13991059158
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=10692885897


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Couple of those listed ( more expensive ones ) have DVI controllers. So the cheaper ones are actually DP.
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14581124673
> This one looks the most promising... Minimalistic, includes free HP stand (looks decent) DP Input and according to panelook.com it has a better panel than the Catleaps. 2200 yuan == $347.31, so still decent price.
> http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=13437 (TaoBao DIY)
> vs
> http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=4999 (Catleap etc.)
> Not by much, but 380 vs. 420 brightness... and it started production 2010, vs. the Catleap revision was started in 2008.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Learned from my Taobao agent that this is the better panel (LG A quality, same ones Apple/Dell get)
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14683772836
> ~$30 more than the other one, which was also listed as "used" not "new" like this one. Not sure if that was a translation error or what.
> Otherwise at $1135 for 3 of these, minus all the other costs that we have to figure out now.


Please keep your posts relevant to owning a Catleap monitor. If you want to start a separate thread about this please do so - there are tons of posts here already that people seeking information about this particular monitor have to go through (and I have to filter for the first 4 posts!) so please stay on topic of Catleap ownership.

Thanks!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I received my first response from an eBay seller re: the PCBs this morning. Apparently he didn't quite understand what I was asking him for since he said he would be unable to open each monitor to physically check the PCB type inside!

I sent a clarifying email back. He might get my meaning the second time.


----------



## Superhuman

I've seen the pics on how to remove the stand, but from user experience, is it pretty easy & risk free to do?

I'm kinda afraid/paranoid about disassembling it lol.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superhuman*
> 
> I've seen the pics on how to remove the stand, but from user experience, is it pretty easy & risk free to do?
> I'm kinda afraid/paranoid about disassembling it lol.


Haven't done it, but when you get it, you attach the stand. So, taking it off would be just as easy I presume? Or just don't attach the stand when the monitor arrives?


----------



## Superhuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Haven't done it, but when you get it, you attach the stand. So, taking it off would be just as easy I presume? Or just don't attach the stand when the monitor arrives?


No, I meant if you want to use an aftermarket stand...

Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Please keep your posts relevant to owning a Catleap monitor. If you want to start a separate thread about this please do so - there are tons of posts here already that people seeking information about this particular monitor have to go through (and I have to filter for the first 4 posts!) so please stay on topic of Catleap ownership.
> 
> Thanks!


Yea, no problem. Didn't think it was worth starting a new thread if nothing really came of it. This was still relevant to people looking to buy Catleaps. I'm seeing the OCing as a stroke of luck. Some parts happened to be capable of more than what they were advertised to do. People were buying Catleaps because they had the potential to OC, if that potential is gone then i'm sure they'll look at other options. That was the only reason I bought one.

But if you can find the parts, cool... maybe we can start modding.


----------



## minnus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superhuman*
> 
> No, I meant if you want to use an aftermarket stand...
> Sorry for the confusion.


It was fairly simple. Following the 'tear down' on the front page, the only thing I would have to comment on is that the plastic deforms easily when using a screw driver to pop the tabs (on mine, you can clearly see where I used a screw driver) - but I'd say that is true for most monitor frames.

Just be gentle and take your time.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Learned from my Taobao agent that this is the better panel (LG A quality, same ones Apple/Dell get)
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=14683772836
> ~$30 more than the other one, which was also listed as "used" not "new" like this one. Not sure if that was a translation error or what.
> Otherwise at $1135 for 3 of these, minus all the other costs that we have to figure out now.


PM sent so we can not fill this Catleap owners thread.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I received my first response from an eBay seller re: the PCBs this morning. Apparently he didn't quite understand what I was asking him for since he said he would be unable to open each monitor to physically check the PCB type inside!
> 
> I sent a clarifying email back. He might get my meaning the second time.


Too bad none of us speak fluent Korean! I know a guy here at work has a Korean wife or GF or something. I'll see if he can help!


----------



## dakU

Just got my catleap.. connected it with the dual-link DVI and I get a black screen.

Can anyone help?


----------



## PearlJammzz

-Make sure it's connected to the dual-link DVI port on your videocard. Most cards only 1 of them is and they look exactly the same.

-Try having the monitor connected but turned off. Turn the pc on, and then once it's in Windows turn the monitor on. This worked for some people in the thread.

-Try another dual-link cable. It could be a bad cable.

-Sell it to me for the cost of shipping

That's what I'd do







.


----------



## dakU

- Tried both DVI ports on both of my 560Tis

- Just did, same blank screen 

- Tried my older dual-link (came with my 120hz monitor), no luck.

I have a real bad luck with monitors.


----------



## jomama22

how do i know if the listings on ebay have glass or not? i would love to buy one but i want a speaker and glass version.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jomama22*
> 
> how do i know if the listings on ebay have glass or not? i would love to buy one but i want a speaker and glass version.


In the title:

YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 27" LED 2560X1440 In-speaker Monitor + Tempered glass


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dakU*
> 
> - Tried both DVI ports on both of my 560Tis
> - Just did, same blank screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - Tried my older dual-link (came with my 120hz monitor), no luck.
> 
> I have a real bad luck with monitors.


If you're willing to open it up, there was someone else who had the video cable come loose during shipping.

If it's detected by Windows and you see the backlight come on, then it's most likely the video cable between the DVI/LCD controller and the logic board of the screen. I'd recommend checking that out before giving up







I took my Catleap apart 4-5 times and 2 of those times I had that cable loose and had similar symptoms. Just had to pull it apart again and reseat it.

Be gentle though, that cable is fragile.


----------



## civilsurvey

Just received my Catleap from dcsamsungmall at 11:30 am CDT. I clicked the BIN and paid for the item at 6:30pm CDT on Sunday evening. Total time from purchase to receipt 65-hours. It came bubble wrapped in several layers and was in excellent condition. I can highly recommend dcsamsungmall. Currently, he appears to be the speediest shipper out there.

It is a 2C serial number. I have not tried to overclock (little knowledge of how to or interest in doing so. I know, sacrilege on OCN). I also have not gone looking for dead or bright pixels, again, because I am not sure how to do it and, based on others comments, there seems to be very little point for me to do so.

I was able to get it to work with an 8500GT and an 8600GTS. I did have to connect the monitor and reboot each computer and then refine the resolution.

We are using it in the office as an AutoCAD monitor. Plan to purchase a couple of more once this one holds up for a week or two. Thanks to this and the other thread for all the great info.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superhuman*
> 
> I've seen the pics on how to remove the stand, but from user experience, is it pretty easy & risk free to do?
> I'm kinda afraid/paranoid about disassembling it lol.


Definitely start opening it around the power button area because it is easier to unlatch there.



I used the far left tool for opening my screen. To reduce plastic marks on the unit I made sure to use the weight of the monitor + my hand to help pull the stand apart while I was individually unlatching the latches

If you want to mount the LCD on a VESA mount you will have to remove the stand from the bottom of the monitor. The stand comes in 2 parts - the Lazy susan thing for the bottom and the black neck part. The neck part is attached with I believe either 6 or 8 screws. There's a black plastic piece that wraps around the monitor stand's neck that you'll have to remove as well. Once you remove those screws you will also have to use some pliers to unscrew the nuts holding the black neck's mounting piece from the black neck because the mounting piece will not fit between the hole that the black neck comes out of.

Once you remove the stand fully and are ready to reassemble the monitor you can place the black plastic piece back inside where the hole for the stand is and tape it back in or leave it out. I taped mine back in so it would better from the outside and not have just a hole there.

With the tempered glass version you can massage the pixels if you take the front bezel off but you risk getting dust/hair/etc between the glass and the LCD.


----------



## Superhuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> Definitely start opening it around the power button area because it is easier to unlatch there.
> 
> I used the far left tool for opening my screen. To reduce plastic marks on the unit I made sure to use the weight of the monitor + my hand to help pull the stand apart while I was individually unlatching the latches
> If you want to mount the LCD on a VESA mount you will have to remove the stand from the bottom of the monitor. The stand comes in 2 parts - the Lazy susan thing for the bottom and the black neck part. The neck part is attached with I believe either 6 or 8 screws. There's a black plastic piece that wraps around the monitor stand's neck that you'll have to remove as well. Once you remove those screws you will also have to use some pliers to unscrew the nuts holding the black neck's mounting piece from the black neck because the mounting piece will not fit between the hole that the black neck comes out of.
> Once you remove the stand fully and are ready to reassemble the monitor you can place the black plastic piece back inside where the hole for the stand is and tape it back in or leave it out. I taped mine back in so it would better from the outside and not have just a hole there.
> With the tempered glass version you can massage the pixels if you take the front bezel off but you risk getting dust/hair/etc between the glass and the LCD.


Thank you for this post. How many latches would you say there were?


----------



## AlienGod

Hey guys I was wondering how I would go about connecting this to my laptop. The laptop has hdmi and display port only. Also the graphics card is GT540, will it be able to support the monitor at 1080p resolution? Thanks.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlienGod*
> 
> Hey guys I was wondering how I would go about connecting this to my laptop. The laptop has hdmi and display port only. Also the graphics card is GT540, will it be able to support the monitor at 1080p resolution? Thanks.


If you buy one of the multi-port versions, or if you get a DP to dual dvi adapter, then it should work.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superhuman*
> 
> Thank you for this post. How many latches would you say there were?


about 4 on the left and right side, probably 6 on the top and bottom. Unscrew the lazy susan from the neck before attempting to open the bottom front bezel otherwise the base will be in the way of your screwdriver/opening tool when you're prying it open.

using about 2lb of force try to slide the flat-head screwdriver as close as possible to the next available locked latch and when you can't squeeze it in any more, attempt to twist the screwdriver to pry the latch open,


----------



## Skylit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Is the glass part of the panel ?
> 
> Can the glass be removed if I was to dismantle the monitor, if I got one ?
> 
> Right now I am thinking of getting the non glass panel monitor.
> 
> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Just ordered a Crossover. Say's up to 75hz so.... I sure hope so!
> 
> We're going to need that Crossover club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered from dream-seller, $409.
> 
> What are the advantages of the Crossover monitor ?


Typically means the panel itself is capable of 75hz. If the controller can't push that, you're out of luck.


----------



## AlienGod

Thanks for the fast response. Do you mean one of these? http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/cables/audio/visualcables/Startech/MDP2DVIMM6.html#utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skylit*
> 
> Typically means the panel itself is capable of 75hz. If the controller can't push that, you're out of luck.


It's cool. Won't be a deal breaker. I hear 60hz vs 75hz isn't noticeable anyway. Though I've seen some contrary post's here on ocn. Hm.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superhuman*
> 
> I've seen the pics on how to remove the stand, but from user experience, is it pretty easy & risk free to do?
> I'm kinda afraid/paranoid about disassembling it lol.


Quote:



> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> It was fairly simple. Following the 'tear down' on the front page, the only thing I would have to comment on is that the plastic deforms easily when using a screw driver to pop the tabs (on mine, you can clearly see where I used a screw driver) - but I'd say that is true for most monitor frames.
> Just be gentle and take your time.


Anyone with questions see POST FOUR - it has most answers. If something isn't there you need, let me know and I will add it. I may copy that info into post one and change it so people will look there before posting questions that have been answered (especially since we are getting near 650 posts!)

*The trick to not harming your bezel is this - the front bezel has a bit of a lip so that when you insert your flat blade you want the blade against the back of the monitor. If you are then you won't deform the soft plastic of the front bezel.*


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I will ask again to please keep this thread strictly to questions/help on the Catleap monitor. With so many posts people are having a hard time digesting all this information.

If you want to discuss other makes - start another thread please.


----------



## Superhuman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Anyone with questions see POST FOUR - it has most answers. If something isn't there you need, let me know and I will add it. I may copy that info into post one and change it so people will look there before posting questions that have been answered (especially since we are getting near 650 posts!)
> 
> *The trick to not harming your bezel is this - the front bezel has a bit of a lip so that when you insert your flat blade you want the blade against the back of the monitor. If you are then you won't deform the soft plastic of the front bezel.*


I saw that post, it's just kind of hard to tell what's going on and where everything is in some of the pics. Thank you for that post btw.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have re-done POST ONE to include all the information collected to date (rather than it being in post four.) Anyone that believes something should be added - let me know.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlienGod*
> 
> Thanks for the fast response. Do you mean one of these? http://www.novatech.co.uk/products/cables/audio/visualcables/Startech/MDP2DVIMM6.html#utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&utm_campaign=products


That looks to me like a passive mini-DP to DVI cable, which means it'll be limited to single-link DVI; a DP++ port is capable of repurposing its pins to emulate a single-link DVI, but has insufficient pins/transceivers to output a dual-link signal. Despite what the title says (and the number of pins on the output) displayport can't output to dual-link as-is. You would need an active adapter, which is typically much more expensive ($60-100 is typical). You'd also have to be careful to make sure it supports up to the resolution and refresh rate you're aiming for...


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have re-done POST ONE to include all the information collected to date (rather than it being in post four.) Anyone that believes something should be added - let me know.


I think adding in a few cable options would be helpful. Mostly for people that need a different length, or get a defective one.

3ft Rosewill for $9 shipped,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119387

10ft Belken with one right angle end for $8 plus shipping (around $18-20 shipped) unless you have prime,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HGLFDI/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

10ft Rosewill for $12 shipped,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119388

25ft Rosewill for $20 shipped,
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812119390


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

For someone that is getting a blank screen or one that is recognized, has back lighting, but is still blank I would be interested if the following item worked:

*CLICKY*

This is a step up transformer.

There may be four (or more) issues that are causing some people to get what appears to be a DOA monitor:


Bad/Wrong Cable
Loose panel wiring inside the monitor
Video card issues (card itself or driver issue)
Power brick issues

Just a thought.


----------



## Master Freez

Guys, can anyone test the monitor with PixPerAn and take a screenshot in utility? http://www.prad.de/download/pixperan_english.zip

It will really help me & others to compare the response time of this monitors with any other model! Thanks in advance & sorry for my english.

P.S: write the screen refresh rate also, please!


----------



## minnus

I've downloaded to try it, but I am not sure what it is you want me to do (never used it before).


----------



## johnsmith221

I just got one of these today. It came in great condition with no dead pixels i can see. I haven't tried to overclock it because i dont know how.

It leans about 1/4" to the right... i guess thats normal?

Now the questions -

1. It shows up under the name DUAL-DVI do i need a driver or something? (my old one showed up as acer _____)

2. For some reason in windows it shows up as display #2 even though i set it as my default and it is on the left (My TV plugged into HDMI shows up as display #1). CCC shows it as #1 but windows does not. Is there anyway to change this? my acer monitor didnt have this problem and it just bugs me....

3. Does anyone actually use 2560x1440? I'm trying it out just cause but it seems insane... Have to be too close to read the small print and when youre that close this thing is overwhelming... i think its giving me a headache...

Thanks


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> I've downloaded to try it, but I am not sure what it is you want me to do (never used it before).


Launch it, press F6, then press Space Bar, change the values Graph. no: 3 & tempo: 3. Next press Ctrl, then press F5 and screenshot will be saved in program folder. Now just post the screenshot here. Thanks!

This is my Viewsonic VX2450WM 5ms GTG screenshot: 

I'm not sure about the correct tempo value for a monitor standart test like in reviews


----------



## Master Freez

Is the Yamakasi good for gaming? Apple Cinema with same (probably) S-IPS matrix usually doesn't annoying gamers, but it's better to read your verdicts...

Did anyone bought the last multiple inputs model?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-MULTI-MONITOR-27-2560X1440-HDMI-Stereo-Speaker16-9-/320862299945?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab4e22729#ht_9054wt_802

I really hope that this is "2B" version with high refresh rate


----------



## minnus

Here ya go. 60Hertz


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> 
> Here ya go. 60Hertz


Thank you! At least we truly have not the worst ips monitor))) So do you like it in responce time? No long shifts\bluring in movies\games?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Crappy pics taken with my ipad of the tempered glass model with no speakers.


----------



## minnus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> Thank you! At least we truly have not the worst ips monitor))) So do you like it in responce time? No long shifts\bluring in movies\games?


Unfortunately, I am not very hardcore. Till now, I've been using a Dell U2410, which is also an IPS screen. On the U2410, I've experienced tearing, but I am not entirely sure that was the fault of the monitor. So far, no tearing the on the Catleap. I haven't gamed with it yet though. Movies haves been fine ~ but like I said, I am not a very good critic.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> Thank you! At least we truly have not the worst ips monitor))) So do you like it in responce time? No long shifts\bluring in movies\games?


Hate to burst your bubble, but the way you're using PixPerAn is not correct and will not provide meaningful information. PixPerAn is designed to demonstrate ghosting on an LCD, where a pixel maintains a "ghost" image of the last frame once the computer has told it to change to something else. If you're just running it and taking a screenshot from within the program, all you'll get is the (perfect) signal being sent to the LCD, not the (potentially ghosted) image that's actually displayed on screen. What you need to do is run the program and then take a picture with a camera of the display at a fast shutter speed (I would expect anything around 1/300s or 1/500s or higher would work). This will show how many images (or ghosted remains of an image) show on screen at one time.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> Unfortunately, I am not very hardcore. Till now, I've been using a Dell U2410, which is also an IPS screen. On the U2410, I've experienced tearing, but I am not entirely sure that was the fault of the monitor. So far, no tearing the on the Catleap. I haven't gamed with it yet though. Movies haves been fine ~ but like I said, I am not a very good critic.


Sometimes the best critic is a man with "fresh eyes"







Okay, +1 for Yamasaki choice. The last problem is refresh rate overclock on the latest model & somthing like a possible ips panel death in that mode( Looks like that controller pcb makes a big difference, but i'm not a specialist in displays so i don't know why other manufactures still didn't put it. Only Yamaha did it once...in a really bad model.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Hate to burst your bubble, but the way you're using PixPerAn is not correct and will not provide meaningful information. PixPerAn is designed to demonstrate ghosting on an LCD, where a pixel maintains a "ghost" image of the last frame once the computer has told it to change to something else. If you're just running it and taking a screenshot from within the program, all you'll get is the (perfect) signal being sent to the LCD, not the (potentially ghosted) image that's actually displayed on screen. What you need to do is run the program and then take a picture with a camera of the display at a fast shutter speed (I would expect anything around 1/300s or 1/500s or higher would work). This will show how many images (or ghosted remains of an image) show on screen at one time.


Yeap, you are absolutely right, but PixPerAn is a little bit important tool also. And it's easier to try then requesting camera shots. If you can make a pictures and compare to some fast monitor without any ghosting -







Thanks in advance!


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Crappy pics taken with my ipad of the tempered glass model with no speakers.


Looks amazing!


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> Yeap, you are absolutely right, but PixPerAn is a little bit important tool also. And it's easier to try then requesting camera shots. If you can make a pictures and compare to some fast monitor without any ghosting -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


I'm not quite sure what you're saying here - PixPerAn *is* an important tool, but only if used as intended. A regular software-only screenshot of the program running is worse than useless, because it will confuse people into thinking their monitor has no ghosting when in fact it very well might (and very probably does, considering just about every LCD will have at least some).

Here, I'll help:



That's my 2C Q270, running at 60Hz. Forgive the less than stellar shot; my point-and-shoot is all that's handy. Taken at 1/200s exposure time.

By the way, would people who have posted their model variant numbers (2C, 2B) be able to provide the digit after the letter? Since we know the letter corresponds to manufacturing month, I have a sneaking suspicion the first 2 is a year code (2011, probably) and the digit after the month code is a week code. If we don't see any values other than 1, 2, 3 and 4 for that digit, then we might have finer-grained information about what date/order panels were manufactured in.

For example, mine is:
Q270SE2C2, which I'm guessing means 2011, second week of march.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Crappy pics taken with my ipad of the tempered glass model with no speakers.


Gorgeous. Look fowards to seeing if that badboy can to higher hz. Even if it doesn't still really nice! Nice pics.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

^Nice ill have mine tomorrow or the next day same model, will be nice if it overclocks!


----------



## johnsmith221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnsmith221*
> 
> I just got one of these today. It came in great condition with no dead pixels i can see. I haven't tried to overclock it because i dont know how.
> It leans about 1/4" to the right... i guess thats normal?
> Now the questions -
> 1. It shows up under the name DUAL-DVI do i need a driver or something? (my old one showed up as acer _____)
> 2. For some reason in windows it shows up as display #2 even though i set it as my default and it is on the left (My TV plugged into HDMI shows up as display #1). CCC shows it as #1 but windows does not. Is there anyway to change this? my acer monitor didnt have this problem and it just bugs me....
> 3. Does anyone actually use 2560x1440? I'm trying it out just cause but it seems insane... Have to be too close to read the small print and when youre that close this thing is overwhelming... i think its giving me a headache...
> Thanks


OK i've managed to fix the problem that it hangs 1/4" to the right - i dont recommend it but i just grabbed it like a steering wheel and torqued it to the left... popped right into place nice and centered.

Also fixed problem #3 by adjusting windows text size and default zoom in browser.

Still having problems with 1 & 2... this may be more of windows issues than anything but does anyone have the monitor show up as something other than "dual dvi" and is it possible to change it to "display 1" in windows 7?

if you cant tell i'm a complete novice just experimenting... appreciate any thoughts on these problems/fixes


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnsmith221*
> 
> OK i've managed to fix the problem that it hangs 1/4" to the right - i dont recommend it but i just grabbed it like a steering wheel and torqued it to the left... popped right into place nice and centered.
> Also fixed problem #3 by adjusting windows text size and default zoom in browser.
> Still having problems with 1 & 2... this may be more of windows issues than anything but does anyone have the monitor show up as something other than "dual dvi" and is it possible to change it to "display 1" in windows 7?
> if you cant tell i'm a complete novice just experimenting... appreciate any thoughts on these problems/fixes


For #1 - it could be that your card assigns 1 to the HDMI port (clearly Windows sees it as 1). May not be able to change that.

For #2 - no luck on changing the name I think. Mine are listed as the same (just with _1 _2 after them I believe.)

Neither issue affects the ability of the monitor to operate so you may need to get over the OCD!


----------



## BBGunWB

No INF for the monitor or name in the EDID means generic name in the dialog. You could change it, but would have to edit the registry to do so. I haven't bothered looking for it so I couldn't tell you where it is, but I'm pretty sure it can be done, as I've done it for gaming controllers.

BB


----------



## Master Freez

*People of the OCN*, i asked Green-Sum about model number of the Multiple verison of Catleap Q270 (HDMI, DVI...) & he said that cannot guarantee the exact serial number due to quantity of goods. So...no guarantees to get any *100 hz* model even it's in stock & in production

Wainting for reply from the DreamSeller...


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Crappy pics taken with my ipad of the tempered glass model with no speakers.


Looks nice, but I bet the extra weight of all the glass makes the stand even MORE wobbly. Also there's the big risk of getting dust/pet hair/etc between the glass and the monitor while you have it apart to remove the stand if you want to replace it.

Thinking the Shimian would be the better monitor to get if you're gonna get a glassed in monitor.

BB


----------



## CTM Audi

Red-cap shipped mine via Fedex today, due on Tuesday.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> Looks nice, but I bet the extra weight of all the glass makes the stand even MORE wobbly. Also there's the big risk of getting dust/pet hair/etc between the glass and the monitor while you have it apart to remove the stand if you want to replace it.
> Thinking the Shimian would be the better monitor to get if you're gonna get a glassed in monitor.
> BB


But with shimian you don't get 100hz which is why I bought this monitor. And the stand is fine. I have a stable computer desk and have had no instances of the monitor wobbling whatsoever. It's certainly wobble-prone if you have shaking desk or tend to push your monitor, but the extra weight of the glass maybe is what's causing it to be so heavy that it keeps itself from moving in the first place. Haha.











p.s. I promise to take better pictures in the future as soon as apple delivers my god damn new ipad. Never realized how ****ty the camera on the ipad 2 was.


----------



## Superhuman

For those wondering how sturdy the Catleap stand is, it doesn't look all that bad judging from this video:


----------



## BBGunWB

Except my catleap stand does not swivel for some reason.

Whoops, finally got it to. But it ain't smooth like in that video.









BB


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> But with shimian you don't get 100hz which is why I bought this monitor. And the stand is fine. I have a stable computer desk and have had no instances of the monitor wobbling whatsoever. It's certainly wobble-prone if you have shaking desk or tend to push your monitor, but the extra weight of the glass maybe is what's causing it to be so heavy that it keeps itself from moving in the first place. Haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. I promise to take better pictures in the future as soon as apple delivers my god damn new ipad. Never realized how ****ty the camera on the ipad 2 was.


Congratulations! You've got the last one on the market









Maybe there is some very serious reason not to make any 100 hz IPS monitors...or maybe it was impossible until this time & we can just wait a little bit for a new "revolution" )


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> Congratulations! You've got the last one on the market
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe there is some very serious reason not to make any 100 hz IPS monitors...or maybe it was impossible until this time & we can just wait a little bit for a new "revolution" )


I just ordered another lesser-sold monitor. Tempered Glass + SPeakers + Zero Defect policy. I'll see what serial that has when it arrives. That one's a gift for my dad's birthday and he doesn't need more than 60hz. but still.


----------



## Master Freez

Nice choice for a gift!


----------



## utnorris

So I ordered mine from dcsamsungmall on the 13th and it's already in Dallas. There is a good chance I will get it today, but worse case tomorrow. So two to three days from when I paid, that's pretty damn fast. Can't wait to see if it's old or new stock, but either way it's a great deal.


----------



## three0duster

I ordered the non glass model from Green Sum on the 10th (Saturday) and I have still not heard a peep out of the seller. I shot him a message via ebay yesterday to see if I can get an update. When you guys have been sending questions have you been using google translate before sending them? Also, has anyone else ordered from Green Sum since Sunday and received any word from the seller, be it tracking number or response of any kind?

Ask and ye shall receive! I just got the sellers response. As well as a tracking number!







It was picked up by the shipper yesterday evening. One day I will learn patients. I will take lots of pics next week when I get it in.


----------



## AMGRoadster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I'm not quite sure what you're saying here - PixPerAn *is* an important tool, but only if used as intended. A regular software-only screenshot of the program running is worse than useless, because it will confuse people into thinking their monitor has no ghosting when in fact it very well might (and very probably does, considering just about every LCD will have at least some).
> Here, I'll help:
> 
> That's my 2C Q270, running at 60Hz. Forgive the less than stellar shot; my point-and-shoot is all that's handy. Taken at 1/200s exposure time.
> By the way, would people who have posted their model variant numbers (2C, 2B) be able to provide the digit after the letter? Since we know the letter corresponds to manufacturing month, I have a sneaking suspicion the first 2 is a year code (2011, probably) and the digit after the month code is a week code. If we don't see any values other than 1, 2, 3 and 4 for that digit, then we might have finer-grained information about what date/order panels were manufactured in.
> For example, mine is:
> Q270SE2C2, which I'm guessing means 2011, second week of march.


The first 2 may well be the year code but it does not mean 2011. Logically the 2 would suggest 2012. Not to mention just in time inventories, the expense of storing these for a year, the tax implications of carrying inventories for an extended period of time, etc. These have not been sitting around for a year.


----------



## minnus

My monitor sometimes turns on completely jumbled, and requires and few power cycles to come back to normal. Anyone else having issues with the monitor?

This is on default 60Hz


----------



## Gloomy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minnus*
> 
> My monitor sometimes turns on completely jumbled, and requires and few power cycles to come back to normal. Anyone else having issues with the monitor?
> This is on default 60Hz


http://www.overclock.net/t/636236/samsung-226bw-flickers-for-a-few-minutes-when-powering-on

Refer to this thread. I also asked a question that you might find pertinent in the review thread ' 3'


----------



## eduardmc

We all know this monitor has a green tint which can easily be fix with color setting. Have any of you done any color calibration with nvidia control panel (brigness, contract and gramma, color red, blue, green) just to know what settings are you using and see if it works for me.


----------



## utnorris

Mine is on the truck to be delivered. So two days from ordered/paid to my doorstep, damn that's fast. Glad I cancelled my other order and got this one. Can't wait till it gets here.


----------



## DarkrReign2049

I finally got my monitor in yesterday. I ordered it the morning of the 5th. The mail man didn't even try to walk up to the door to deliver it. He just put a note to pick it up at the post office. The monitor so far is perfect. No dead pixels. I thought the stand was leaning like the rest of them but I looked and there was a screw sitting under the base. I didn't see any back light bleed, but I forgot to check for it. Also this is a 2C. I don't know if I will even try to overclock it.


----------



## mfresh

Ordered Q270 no speakers from dreamseller on 3/8, just saw my favorite three little words "Out For Delivery". OC and pixel review later tonight.

Just registered, first post - thanks to everyone for the excellent information (been lurking here and in the original Achiva thread for the last week).


----------



## minnus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomy*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/636236/samsung-226bw-flickers-for-a-few-minutes-when-powering-on
> Refer to this thread. I also asked a question that you might find pertinent in the review thread ' 3'


Thanks for the link Gloomy. I hope I don't have to start digging out bad capacitors already


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfresh*
> 
> Ordered Q270 no speakers from dreamseller on 3/8, just saw my favorite three little words "Out For Delivery". OC and pixel review later tonight.
> Just registered, first post - thanks to everyone for the excellent information (been lurking here and in the original Achiva thread for the last week).


chances are you are too late to get the OC mondel as most of those who got it where the original buyers pre march.


----------



## mfresh

Thanks, that became apparent a few days after I ordered :-/ But hey, you never know, so I'll be giving it a shot anyway.

The 100hz was certainly gravy, but remembering the great experience i had with IPS in in my old T60p and my even older 24" Dell LCD, I am still really excited about getting a 1440p IPS panel for sub-400 bucks!


----------



## utnorris

Ok, so I got my Catleap in and did a quick setup:

The good:
Fast shipping.
Well packed, bubble wrapped was thick.
No dead pixels.
Looks amazing, so much it sucks looking at my other monitors.
No problem using a regular computer cable with the power brick.

The bad:
The silver back plate was broke off. I was going to remove it anyway, so this saves me from having to take it apart. There was no damage to the box or the inside, it's just flismy.
Backlight bleed is worse than my Dell 22" IPS LCD's. Again, not a big issue, but you can definitely see it.
It's a 2C, so the most I can get out of it is 65Hz.

The meh:
The stand does not lean like others, but it definitely is not as solid as I would like, but I am going to mount it anyway, so it doesn't really matter.
The included DVI cable is short, so will probably need a new one.

I will post pics in a bit, have some work to do before I get to play.


----------



## cloggedb

I just got my Catleap delivered and had nothing but the back light turn on when i plugged it into my PC. Solved the problem by opening the display up and reconnecting the cable connecting the display, seems like it got loose during shipping.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> So I ordered mine from dcsamsungmall on the 13th and it's already in Dallas. There is a good chance I will get it today, but worse case tomorrow. So two to three days from when I paid, that's pretty damn fast. Can't wait to see if it's old or new stock, but either way it's a great deal.


Wow. Wish I noticed dcsamsungmall had crossovers for sale before I ordered from dream-seller. dream-seller seems to take a while.


----------



## utnorris

Any ideas on the back light issue?



Here are some pics as promised:


----------



## HyperMatrix

Wow that's a lot of backlight bleed. Is that a regular or tempered glass model?


----------



## Master Freez

*3 very Important questions to all:*

Post your monitor model (w\wo speakers, tempered glass, etc) also, please









1) Do you have any console (PS3 or XBOX360) hooked up to the monitor? How it works? Clipped at the edges, distorted or fullscreen?

2) Lets say that there is Doctor House or anybody else on your screen in HD 720p. Face close-up. When he movs, bristle & pores of the skin are getting blured for any period of time noticeably?

3) If you can compate to any other IPS\TN monitor, "big 27 inch daddy" looks slow or fine?

Thanks in advance & sorry for my english!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> *5 very Important questions to all:*
> Post your monitor model (w\wo speakers, tempered glass, etc) also, please
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Does your monitor work in the bios? Can you see it? Standart or UEFI bios you have?
> 2) Did you try 1920x1080 resolution? How it looks, no "too big pixels", is it comfortable for you?
> 3) Do you have any console (PS3 or XBOX360) hooked up to the monitor? How it works? Clipped at the edges, distorted or fullscreen?
> 4) Lets say that there is Doctor House or anybody else on your screen in HD 720p. Face close-up. When he movs, bristle & pores of the skin are getting blured for any period of time noticeably?
> 5) If you can compate to any other IPS\TN monitor, "big 27 inch daddy" looks slow or fine?
> Thanks in advance & sorry for my english!


I am not sure what you are trying to get from all your posts Freez. Most of what I have read you post is so subjective from one person to another. All of your questions have been either answered or talked about to death in this thread and the original thread. I would hate to start clogging this up again with things discussed over and over. I suggest maybe taking 12 hours and read page by page from the original thread and this one. That will give you all these answers.









I get you want some things cleared up before you buy, or it appears that you do, but some of these subjective tests won't really help much. Buy one, try it out, if you don't like it, sell it for a small profit to someone who loves it! Otherwise, please spend the time to re-read what others have been saying for weeks.


----------



## Master Freez

*ScribbyDaGreat* I absolutely agree, but i didn't found posts about 1080p and bios & read all 70 pages already. Maybe one...not sure


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> *ScribbyDaGreat* I absolutely agree, but i didn't found posts about 1080p and bios & read all 70 pages already.


SWEET!







Then here you go - I can use both monitors in BIOS on my EVGA P55FTW board and the 1920 reso looks fine albeit weird since it is a strange little box in the middle of a BEEEEAUTIFUL 27" monitor! I would never run it at that reso, never. It's a waste for this thing. I watched the Real Madrid replay today on both monitors, the one that runs at 97hz and the other at 65hz, and didn't notice much of a difference. The 97hz was a little cleaner, but not by much. At first I thought the 65hz was way worse, but when I spread the screen across both it wasn't as bad as I originally thought. I think my mind was saying this is 30hz less it HAS to look worse! It really didn't - again - to me, my opinion, take it for what it's worth!


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> SWEET!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then here you go - I can use both monitors in BIOS on my EVGA P55FTW board and the 1920 reso looks fine albeit weird since it is a strange little box in the middle of a BEEEEAUTIFUL 27" monitor! I would never run it at that reso, never. It's a waste for this thing. I watched the Real Madrid replay today on both monitors, the one that runs at 97hz and the other at 65hz, and didn't notice much of a difference. The 97hz was a little cleaner, but not by much. At first I thought the 65hz was way worse, but when I spread the screen across both it wasn't as bad as I originally thought. I think my mind was saying this is 30hz less it HAS to look worse! It really didn't - again - to me, my opinion, take it for what it's worth!


More I read, More I think higher hz is a placebo


----------



## Master Freez

*ScribbyDaGreat*, thank you! Wh...little box in the middle? Even in windows its not upscaling?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> More I read, More I think higher hz is a placebo


It was for me today for sure! In many cases I would agree, except when your tri-580 3gb bad boys are hitting over 125 fps!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> *ScribbyDaGreat*, thank you! Wh...little box in the middle? Even in windows its not upscaling?


I use aspect ratio in the nVidia control panel so it's a box. Just tried it without and it looks fine to me.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> *ScribbyDaGreat*, thank you! Wh...little box in the middle? Even in windows its not upscaling?


Depends on your video-card scaling settings. Some will stretch the image, others will add a black border.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Funny now it won't hold anything other than native reso. Hmmm. Curious. I think I just got my GPU all confused switching around so much!


----------



## Mr Ripper

Basically the benefit of higher hz on TFTs is just higher frame rates. With video etc it won't really make any difference as video is recorded at 24, 25, 30 fps etc. 72hz would be nice for 24fps video as it would sync nicely.

People mostly want the higher hz for gaming because 100hz/100fps looks a fair bit nicer than 60hz/60fps if the computer hardware is up to producing such frame rate.


----------



## Master Freez

It's really hard to see monitors problems & advantages on YouTube, but 120 hz mode smoothness is noticable almost every time. So any buyer can decide it in one moment.







Probably *ScribbyDaGreat* is right again, more sense to put something fast in my sli


----------



## bQvle

And with the new Nvidia Kepler GTX680 on its way, it wont be a problem with +100 fps in 2560x1440 im sure!

The sharpness and colors of the S-IPS
+
The smoothness and speed of 100hz/100fps

On the 27" 2560x1440 screen!

Blend that together, and im sure I will be in orgasmic heaven!

this is really what is missing on the market! and now we have to hunt down old serialnumbers to get it!
They should really keep making them the old way, and brand them "up to 100hz (own risk)". raise the price 100$.

first one to do so will make a big profit i think.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It was for me today for sure! In many cases I would agree, except when your tri-580 3gb bad boys are hitting over 125 fps!


You realize a 30 frame per second video won't look Better going from 60hz to 1000hz, right?







evening tweening apps only bump frame rate on videos from 30 to 60.

Just going from 60hz to 82hz(37% increase) I see a huge difference in my fps games and am dying for the new nvidia cards to come out so I can jump to 100hz.


----------



## AMGRoadster

Received my 2C Catleap today from Greensum. It was double boxed like others have been reporting. When I opened the shipping box I heard a plastic thunk. Looked in the box and found a plug adapter to convert the Korean plug to a US plug.

The monitor is almost level - 1/16 of a difference between left & right.

Plugged the monitor in and it worked right away - no issues. There is the smallest of tints in the color of the display. I will use the calibration files that were posted and see how that changes the display. I do not see any dead pixels but don't plan on looking for any.

The display is great. I have not yet tried to overclock it or adjust the display.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMGRoadster*
> 
> Received my 2C Catleap today from Greensum. It was double boxed like others have been reporting. When I opened the shipping box I heard a plastic thunk. Looked in the box and found a plug adapter to convert the Korean plug to a US plug.
> The monitor is almost level - 1/16 of a difference between left & right.
> Plugged the monitor in and it worked right away - no issues. There is the smallest of tints in the color of the display. I will use the calibration files that were posted and see how that changes the display. I do not see any dead pixels but don't plan on looking for any.
> The display is great. I have not yet tried to overclock it or adjust the display.


Very nice! When did you order?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> More I read, More I think higher hz is a placebo


This morning, I had to reboot to install some updates, and I noticed it had reset to 60 Hz just from moving the mouse. Normally the refresh rate sticks between reboots, so I wasn't even expecting it.

Keep in mind, to take advantage of higher refresh rates with mouse-based motion, you should use a 1000 Hz or 500 Hz mouse. A normal 125 Hz mouse jitters badly at 85 Hz, making things less smooth.

For videos, the refresh rate should be a multiple of the frame rate for the smoothest motion. A 60 fps video is actually worse at 85-100 Hz than at 60 Hz. A 30 fps video is better at 60 Hz and 90 Hz, and a 24 fps video is better at 72 Hz and 96 Hz, but the difference between higher refresh rates is small for lower frame rates.


----------



## AMGRoadster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Very nice! When did you order?


I ordered on the 3rd. Took several days to ship then the local post office screwed up.


----------



## Master Freez

If somebody wanna try, this is three _*Avatar 60 FPS samples*_. It was made with Smooth Video Pack under some convertor. Result? Very smooth picture with some little "rewind" without artefacts. Sorry for the russian audio. Difference between 60 hz & 120 monitors is absolutely same like in this samples, monitors just not accelerating video files at all & not accelerating games too high. In the last Philips TV's 800 hz technology makes every video look like in the samples with less rewind, but for games input lag might be too high (about 30ms minimum)

Same 120 hz & 60 hz sample to compare: http://sendfile.su/140848 & http://sendfile.su/179720

Only 120 hz different samples: http://sendfile.su/141256 & http://sendfile.su/141340

I hope that it's fully legal to post the links


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AMGRoadster*
> 
> I ordered on the 3rd. Took several days to ship then the local post office screwed up.


I ordered on the 9th, seems to be taking awhile.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> And with the new Nvidia Kepler GTX680 on its way, it wont be a problem with +100 fps in 2560x1440 im sure!
> The sharpness and colors of the S-IPS
> +
> The smoothness and speed of 100hz/100fps
> On the 27" 2560x1440 screen!
> Blend that together, and im sure I will be in orgasmic heaven!
> this is really what is missing on the market! and now we have to hunt down old serialnumbers to get it!
> They should really keep making them the old way, and brand them "up to 100hz (own risk)". raise the price 100$.
> first one to do so will make a big profit i think.


I think I am getting closer to sourcing the correct PCBs that will allow Catleaps to leap to 97hz. Will see in a few more days. Of course, we still don't know what this will due to these monitors long term, but that's another issue altogether.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> If somebody wanna try, this is three _*Avatar 60 FPS samples*_. It was made with Smooth Video Pack under some convertor. Result? Very smooth picture with some little "rewind" without artefacts. Sorry for the russian audio. Difference between 60 hz & 120 monitors is absolutely same like in this samples, monitors just not accelerating video files at all & not accelerating games too high. In the last Philips TV's 800 hz technology makes every video look like in the samples with less rewind, but for games input lag might be too high (about 30ms minimum)
> Same 120 hz & 60 hz sample to compare: http://sendfile.su/140848 & http://sendfile.su/179720
> Only 120 hz different samples: http://sendfile.su/141256 & http://sendfile.su/141340
> I hope that it's fully legal to post the links


Those are tweened video files. Standard videos play at 30fps (use fraps) while this video, and other videos I do on-the-fly tweening with play at 60fps. I'm guessing there is no normally available >60fps video file as the equipment or use for it isn't common.


----------



## computerdeth

I bought my Catleap 270Q SE from green-sum.
I Placed my order on March 4.
Order shipped March 8.
Monitor got here today, March 15.
It came inside a box, just like others who bought it from green-sum.
Value was marked as $30.
I got a 2C as well.

My mini review.

Stand -
IMO is cheap.
If I gently tap the side of the monitor, it will wobble for a couple of seconds.
The tilt is balanced. Not leaning towards a side like others.
Base is also cheap.

Panel -
My panel came with no dead or stuck pixels. Perfect screen.
There is some minor backlight bleed on the right bottom part of the screen. Doesn't bother me.
Other than the backlight bleed it's amazing.

DVI D Cable-
Cheap imo.
Screws came off the cable.
No problem though. I can simply buy a better one.

I plan on removing the stand and buying a better one.

Pictures.

































edit - updated info.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> And with the new Nvidia Kepler GTX680 on its way, it wont be a problem with +100 fps in 2560x1440 im sure!
> The sharpness and colors of the S-IPS
> +
> The smoothness and speed of 100hz/100fps
> On the 27" 2560x1440 screen!
> Blend that together, and im sure I will be in orgasmic heaven!
> this is really what is missing on the market! and now we have to hunt down old serialnumbers to get it!
> They should really keep making them the old way, and brand them "up to 100hz (own risk)". raise the price 100$.
> first one to do so will make a big profit i think.


680 has a 256bit bus, wont be so good at high res like the 580 or 7970.

Anyone get theirs shipped via Fedex? Curious how accurate the estimated delivery date is.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> 680 has a 256bit bus, wont be so good at high res like the 580 or 7970.
> Anyone get theirs shipped via Fedex? Curious how accurate the estimated delivery date is.


FXAA. All I have to say. Means requires less.







680 is actually an amazing piece of tech.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> FXAA. All I have to say. Means requires less.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 680 is actually an amazing piece of tech.


At 2560 res you dont need AA, or if you do, only a little. Higher memory bus is needed for more pixles. Faster ram can only do so much before its bottlenecked at the bus.


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I think I am getting closer to sourcing the correct PCBs that will allow Catleaps to leap to 97hz. Will see in a few more days. Of course, we still don't know what this will due to these monitors long term, but that's another issue altogether.


Exciting


----------



## Renegade05

Anyone attempting to do eyefinity on these things? I just got 1 and ordered 2 more. I want to do a multi display set up but waiting on the 680s to be released before I make a decision.


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> 680 has a 256bit bus, wont be so good at high res like the 580 or 7970.
> Anyone get theirs shipped via Fedex? Curious how accurate the estimated delivery date is.


Mine was shipped Fedex with an estimated delivery date of the 19th, got it today, two days after ordering. Just use the tracking info and follow it and you should be ale to get an idea of when it will arrive.

As far as mine goes, I plugged it in later on and got no picture, so I took it apart and reseated the connections and then tested it with the front bezel off and it worked fine. I then put the front bezel back on and plugged it back in and got nothing. I was really frustrated, but then I went and reconnected like I did before, first the monitor, then to the gpu and lit up with no issues. Kinda weird, but whatever. Going to play with it some tonight. One thing I can say is the plastic around the panel is very soft. No matter how gentle I was being it still left marks. The back light bleeding doesn't bother me, but it would be nice if there was a way to fix it, otherwise I really like the monitor. I will probably take it apart again tomorrow and try the vesa mount, anyone use the vesa mount and find it's kinda loose? It looks like I would have to pull the controller board out to fix it, but it still works from what I can tell.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> At 2560 res you dont need AA, or if you do, only a little. Higher memory bus is needed for more pixles. Faster ram can only do so much before its bottlenecked at the bus.


The iPhone has a higher pixel density than our monitors. As does the new iPad. Yet they still use AA. And if you're not using AA and won't benefit from Nvidia's FXAA, then you shouldn't worry. The gtx 680 has the same effective memory bandwidth as the 580. And 2560x1440 isn't that taxing on a system in comparison to many people, including myself, who run triple-monitor setups at 5760x1080 (68% more pixels than these monitors here). Add in PhysX and the 1500 cuda cores on top of FXAA, and this card is more than sufficient to handle 2560x1440.

I'll be taking bets on this if anyone wants to dispute it. I'm grabbing 2 of these cards soon as they launch.


----------



## PearlJammzz

I am waiting on benchmarks before I decide. It's either a 680 or a 7970


----------



## kiamori

Just thought I would let you all know that I ordered a Catleap Q270 from red-cap on the 10th(Saturday) for my business office.

I am looking at a very nice catleap 27" monitor with tempered glass and no visable dead pixels or dust. I'm not seeing any of the bleed that some of the other people have reported. I can take some photos if anyone wants, just let me know.

Looks like red-cap shipped it on tuesday and it arrived here today. I order a lot of stuff and I have to tell you that is by far one of the quickest shipments I have ever had from S.Korea.
http://www.fedex.com/Tracking?tracknumbers=521585291461

It was decently packed with bubble wrap around the manufacture box and then wrapped in a cardboard shipping sleve(box) with a ton of tape.

Think I will order a few more of these in the near future after I give this one a good burn-in test, may even sell them at my computer store if I can get a good enough bulk discount.

// Edit
Someone was asking about it so I plugged my catleap into a kill a watt to check usage, Overclocked to 85.019Hz(330Mhz Soft Limit) I'm getting 65-66watts

// Also, mine was a Q270LED*2B*2LP1098

// Edit, Just a follow up on the Catleap I ordered. Here are the pics:

Removed the tempered glass front, came off pretty easy.


Here is the screen 1 month later, still no bad pixels or anything. some neat looking digital art on the screen (not my art).


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> The iPhone has a higher pixel density than our monitors. As does the new iPad. Yet they still use AA. And if you're not using AA and won't benefit from Nvidia's FXAA, then you shouldn't worry. The gtx 680 has the same effective memory bandwidth as the 580. And 2560x1440 isn't that taxing on a system in comparison to many people, including myself, who run triple-monitor setups at 5760x1080 (68% more pixels than these monitors here). Add in PhysX and the 1500 cuda cores on top of FXAA, and this card is more than sufficient to handle 2560x1440.
> I'll be taking bets on this if anyone wants to dispute it. I'm grabbing 2 of these cards soon as they launch.


This isnt the thread for this, so the last Ill say on it is, on paper it has the same memory bandwith because of the faster memory speed, but in reality, it never works that way. Thats why the GTX570 is faster then the GTX480 up to 1080P, but higher then that and its reveresed.

You can think the 680 is the holy grail all you want, but its not true. It trades blows with the 7970 acording to pre-reviews, which is likely that it wins up to 1080P and loses above it. Its a mid range line like the 560Ti, not the enthusiest line. And the core count cant be compared to past cards because its a completely new architechture.

Back on topic, mine says its due Tuesday. It made it from South Korea to Alaska, in a day and departed there at 4pm. I doubt it, but hopefully itll be headed straight here and make it tomorrow.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> This isnt the thread for this, so the last Ill say on it is, on paper it has the same memory bandwith because of the faster memory speed, but in reality, it never works that way. Thats why the GTX570 is faster then the GTX480 up to 1080P, but higher then that and its reveresed.
> You can think the 680 is the holy grail all you want, but its not true. It trades blows with the 7970 acording to pre-reviews, which is likely that it wins up to 1080P and loses above it. Its a mid range line like the 560Ti, not the enthusiest line. And the core count cant be compared to past cards because its a completely new architechture.
> Back on topic, mine says its due Tuesday. It made it from South Korea to Alaska, in a day and departed there at 4pm. I doubt it, but hopefully itll be headed straight here and make it tomorrow.


Then last I'll say on why you're wrong is a link that disproves your statement regarding the 570 being worse than the 480 past 1080p where it shows similar trend in pre and post 1080p resolution as per: http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-570-gf110-performance,2806.html

I'm not being a fanboy. I don't even have an Nvidia card and 2 of my last 3 video card purchases have been ATI's. If the leaked stats and specs for this card are accurate, then yes...despite the lower memory bus compared to a 7970, it performs incredibly well. And a resolution of just 1440p should not cause any type of bottleneck issues. And I'm done.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I think I am getting closer to sourcing the correct PCBs that will allow Catleaps to leap to 97hz. Will see in a few more days. Of course, we still don't know what this will due to these monitors long term, but that's another issue altogether.


DON'T CARE - I'll buy a new set of boards every 6 months if I have to if they keep burning out. I just want my 100Hz LCD n_n

I'm very interested to hear what you come up with here; please let us know as soon as you find anything out!


----------



## larrydavid

Scribby: Do you think the price for these boards will be reasonable enough to be worth switching over?

I'm willing to wager that these boards will work in all of these LG 27" monitors -- Catleap, Achieva, Crossover, 3View, etc.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I think I am getting closer to sourcing the correct PCBs that will allow Catleaps to leap to 97hz. Will see in a few more days. Of course, we still don't know what this will due to these monitors long term, but that's another issue altogether.


You're a MAN! Man from the giant letter)))









I hope that when secret will be revealed, you will write instructions where to get and how to replace for all of us, including "Mere Mortals"









Just got the reply from *Dream-Seller*. He explained more details: secured monitor package in the big box...it's a package directly from the manufacture. We saw the different one & i don't know about Green-Sum, maybe he getting monitors in stock box, then securing...

So we can hope only on "stable single model" for 100 hz or handle hardware changes by "How To".


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I think I am getting closer to sourcing the correct PCBs that will allow Catleaps to leap to 97hz. Will see in a few more days. Of course, we still don't know what this will due to these monitors long term, but that's another issue altogether.


Good sir!








at least there is some hope if once get a C model and want to go 100hz.

Is there any reports of C*/Non-OC models of the tempered glass versions yet?

It seems like someone has gotten alot of requests







have you seen this FAQ added to Green-sum's listings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> 680 has a 256bit bus, wont be so good at high res like the 580 or 7970.










I dont know anything about that. Can someone explain why?
If it doesn't, id rather go with 2x580 as they drop in price!


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know anything about that. Can someone explain why?
> If it doesn't, id rather go with 2x580 as they drop in price!


I have GTX570 SLI & 8800Ultra. 570 have 320-bit bus, 8800Ultra 384-bit bus. Maybe i'm wrong, but nVidia don't producing "crap". So 256 will be enough. If the benchmarks are truly, 680 cards are amazing! Plus there will be 4GB versions of it. Sure, maybe almost reference, maybe not.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Good sir!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at least there is some hope if once get a C model and want to go 100hz.
> Is there any reports of C*/Non-OC models of the tempered glass versions yet?
> It seems like someone has gotten alot of requests
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> have you seen this FAQ added to Green-sum's listings.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I dont know anything about that. Can someone explain why?
> If it doesn't, id rather go with 2x580 as they drop in price!


It means nothing. Best way to describe it is this. If you have a 3 lane highway with with a 60km/h speed limit, you're getting a total of 180 km/h worth of traffic through that highway. Now if your highway only has 2 lanes, but your speed limit is 90km/h instead, that's still a total of 180km/h being travelled.

So yes. The 680 has fewer lanes than the 580. But pushes a lot more data through the lanes it has, and has an identical memory bandwidth as the 580. But with TONS more benefits included...such as the new 28nm production of the new chips.

I should note that all the info I have on this has been leaked on various asian sites. Meaning...there is a possibility that the card is nothing like what we know of it. But from specs and benchmarks we've seen...it is going to be a phenomenal card. But I should also add that Nvidia is expected to bring a much higher end card to the market by the end of 2012 that is the full potential of the new kepler line. So if you can wait...then wait. Because the new ones will be a 512 bit bus, and run on pcie 3. So you'll need to get a new motherboard and cpu (ivy bridge intel) to utilize it. If you can't wait or don't want to rebuilt your entire computer, 680 will likely be your best bet. Just wait for benchmarks and the rumoured march 23rd release.









If your options are between a SINGLE 680, or DUAL 580's....I'd probably go with the 580's. But single card vs. card the 680 is a much better unit.

Also. Thanks for the policy update info. I wish I could have taken that option when they were shipping B model monitors. I have 2 (or is it 3? I can't always see them) bad pixels. And they don't actually interfere and I don't see them unless I look for them. But I can be a tiny bit OCD about that stuff.







I just ordered one of the zero-defect tempered glass + speakers units from Green-sum. I'm a little worried as he had me purchase it and make payment for it outside of eBay.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> I have GTX570 SLI & 8800Ultra. 570 have 320-bit bus, 8800Ultra 384-bit bus. Maybe i'm wrong, but nVidia don't producing "crap". So 256 will be enough. If the benchmarks are truly, 680 cards are amazing! Plus there will be 4GB versions of it. Sure, maybe almost reference, maybe not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> It means nothing. Best way to describe it is this. If you have a 3 lane highway with with a 60km/h speed limit, you're getting a total of 180 km/h worth of traffic through that highway. Now if your highway only has 2 lanes, but your speed limit is 90km/h instead, that's still a total of 180km/h being travelled.
> So yes. The 680 has fewer lanes than the 580. But pushes a lot more data through the lanes it has, and has an identical memory bandwidth as the 580. But with TONS more benefits included...such as the new 28nm production of the new chips.
> I should note that all the info I have on this has been leaked on various asian sites. Meaning...there is a possibility that the card is nothing like what we know of it. But from specs and benchmarks we've seen...it is going to be a phenomenal card. But I should also add that Nvidia is expected to bring a much higher end card to the market by the end of 2012 that is the full potential of the new kepler line. So if you can wait...then wait. Because the new ones will be a 512 bit bus, and run on pcie 3. So you'll need to get a new motherboard and cpu (ivy bridge intel) to utilize it. If you can't wait or don't want to rebuilt your entire computer, 680 will likely be your best bet. Just wait for benchmarks and the rumoured march 23rd release.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If your options are between a SINGLE 680, or DUAL 580's....I'd probably go with the 580's. But single card vs. card the 680 is a much better unit.
> Also. Thanks for the policy update info. I wish I could have taken that option when they were shipping B model monitors. I have 2 (or is it 3? I can't always see them) bad pixels. And they don't actually interfere and I don't see them unless I look for them. But I can be a tiny bit OCD about that stuff.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just ordered one of the zero-defect tempered glass + speakers units from Green-sum. I'm a little worried as he had me purchase it and make payment for it outside of eBay.


Thank you!

I'm more of a single card solution guy







I know better stuff is always comming, but i have been hanging on my GTX285 for quiet a while now. and I feel like its time to upgrade








Also, im quiet happy with my current I7 920 @ 3.6ghz. for my use, it has more then enough power! i won't really benefit from getting more CPU power. (only if i had to do it, to get more GPU power aswell)... but, everything has its price!

I guess ill buy the 680, and if there is any problems (2560x1440 @ 100hz) etc. I'll just return it, and buy one or two 580's

Hopefully my monitors will get shipped today, I just found out that they held everything back, because they were confused what to do with my 3 orders :~(
Don't try to explain and request to much, I guess.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> I guess ill buy the 680, and if there is any problems (2560x1440 @ 100hz) etc. I'll just return it, and buy one or two 580's
> Hopefully my monitors will get shipped today, I just found out that they held everything back, because they were confused what to do with my 3 orders :~(
> Don't try to explain and request to much, I guess.


Did you just order? I think 100hz catleaps are all sold out, ebayers only shipping C revisions now.


----------



## bQvle

doubble post somehow


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Did you just order? I think 100hz catleaps are all sold out, ebayers only shipping C revisions now.


I ordered first Sunday, second Tuesday, third Wednesday.
dont think they shipped anything yet. (first i canceled aswell, because they were out of stock, so when they arrive it will for sure be the C model)

I ordered the Glass version, and the Glass+Speaker version.
hopefully they are still in stock @ B's..

If not, i count on Scribby to find the solution for this


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> I ordered first Sunday, second Tuesday, third Wednesday.
> dont think they shipped anything yet. (first i canceled aswell, because they were out of stock, so when they arrive it will for sure be the C model)
> I ordered the Glass version, and the Glass+Speaker version.
> hopefully they are still in stock @ B's..
> If not, i count on Scribby to find the solution for this


If he can find a way to do it I may start buying the zero defect ones, upgrading them to 100hz, and selling them locally for major profit. =D It's like the apple display, only faster! and...less/no warranty.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Thank you!
> I'm more of a single card solution guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know better stuff is always comming, but i have been hanging on my GTX285 for quiet a while now. and I feel like its time to upgrade
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, im quiet happy with my current I7 920 @ 3.6ghz. for my use, it has more then enough power! i won't really benefit from getting more CPU power. (only if i had to do it, to get more GPU power aswell)... but, everything has its price!
> I guess ill buy the 680, and if there is any problems (2560x1440 @ 100hz) etc. I'll just return it, and buy one or two 580's
> Hopefully my monitors will get shipped today, I just found out that they held everything back, because they were confused what to do with my 3 orders :~(
> Don't try to explain and request to much, I guess.


Look at it this way, 680 is $550 vs $340 for the 580 on sale. The actual specs of the card are out, MicroCenter has gotten the product sheet already, and has been uploaded by some workers.
No doubt its a fast card, but any card with a 256bit bus starts to choke at high res with high AA. Doesnt matter how fast the ram is, thats why clocking the ram to certain speeds stops giving gains. And 4Gb on a 256bit bus is just a waste.

Kyle at [H] has already said it trades blows with the 7970 and isnt what everyone is expecting, because everyone is expecting a full high end Keplar, which the 680 is not. Itll be faster then the 580 yes, but not worth $200 more. The best deal to get now is two 480s for $210 at newegg.

My monitor made it one state over, but still says Tuesday


----------



## Radeon915

My monitor has been in Amsterdam since the 13th, and has shown no progress at all since then. Oh well, as long as it gets here in one piece I don't really care, as I currently don't have anything to put it on.
I ordered a new desk to go with it, but it came in this morning with the desktop being completely knackered.. And the replacement will get here in right about 10 work days.....


----------



## dsp9753

Hey guys,

I am new here but since I received a catleap, I figured I would put in my observations.

I ordered the catleap on 3/9 and received it by 3/12. Super fast shipping, I was surprised.

Now, I received a 2C2 model but I was able to overclock my monitor to 84hz given the settings earlier in this forum. While it does seem smoother, how can I tell I am actually receiving 84hz and not 60? or 65? That everyone is reporting that the 2C2 goes up to?

CCC is reporting 84hz. My monitor is not displaying any weird lines/artifacts. I do not know if this makes a difference but I am using a 7970 with 2 dell 2007wfps at 75hz.

I also have a ZR2740w monitor sitting right above my catleap on a monitor arm but its not plugged in.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsp9753*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I am new here but since I received a catleap, I figured I would put in my observations.
> I ordered the catleap on 3/9 and received it by 3/12. Super fast shipping, I was surprised.
> Now, I received a 2C2 model but I was able to overclock my monitor to 84hz given the settings earlier in this forum. While it does seem smoother, how can I tell I am actually receiving 84hz and not 60? or 65? That everyone is reporting that the 2C2 goes up to?
> CCC is reporting 84hz. My monitor is not displaying any weird lines/artifacts. I do not know if this makes a difference but I am using a 7970 with 2 dell 2007wfps at 75hz.
> I also have a ZR2740w monitor sitting right above my catleap on a monitor arm but its not plugged in.


Enable VSync and try a game with an fps counter.

How does the Catleap compare to your ZR2740w in gaming?


----------



## siberx

@dsp9753: If your monitor is actually working at high refresh rate it'd be significant information, as I don't think we've had any reports yet of C variants doing so.

I ordered a tempered glass + speakers version of the monitor (my second one, first was a 2C no-glass no-speaker) on the 14th in hopes of getting a B; I got a message back from green-sum that even those units have to come from the factory, so they have no back stock left for them. He also said there was some issue at the factory causing a delay, so the monitor should get shipped out some time early next week.


----------



## ramenbuoy

I read around a bit, but was still wondering, 120HZ GD235HZ vs Catleap? I don't play that much FPS, but 120hz sure is nice when I do (I mostly play dota 2)

Would the 85hz vs 120hz be a huge difference? I'm thinking about picking one of these up when I build a new rig as 1920x1080 is enough for my poor set up to handle ATM.


----------



## dsp9753

When I get home from work, I will try L4D with vsync and the fps counter and see what I get.

I have not played enough with the Catleap to give a good comparison to my ZR2740W but I will put in some good hours this weekend and I will let you know the results.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ramenbuoy*
> 
> I read around a bit, but was still wondering, 120HZ GD235HZ vs Catleap? I don't play that much FPS, but 120hz sure is nice when I do (I mostly play dota 2)
> Would the 85hz vs 120hz be a huge difference? I'm thinking about picking one of these up when I build a new rig as 1920x1080 is enough for my poor set up to handle ATM.


I'm generally a proponent of high frame rates/refresh rates, and have missed an increased refresh rate ever since I switched off CRTs a few years back (I used to run [email protected]). I would say that the perceptive differences in framerate really start to become unnoticeable by nearly everybody around the 90-100Hz range; I personally need to have framerate differences of 15 or more above 60fps to tell the difference, so my own experience shows that there is probably little benefit above 90 or so.

The advantage of 120Hz (I'm ignoring 3D, it's a non-feature to me) is mostly in the fact that it's evenly divisible by 24, 30 and 60 - so it'll smoothly play all common north american broadcast formats with no judder.


----------



## DrRetina

Just got my Catleap 27" 2C2 so I guess it will not give my 7970 a high refresh. Too bad.

Anyway the monitor arrived in Mint condition, without any noticeable dead pixels or alike.

I'm loving it so far.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrRetina*
> 
> Just got my Catleap 27" 2C2 so I guess it will not give my 7970 a high refresh. Too bad.
> Anyway the monitor arrived in Mint condition, without any noticeable dead pixels or alike.
> I'm loving it so far.


dsp9753 reported that his 2C2 *may* be able to hit high refresh rates; you should give it a shot anyways to see if it works.


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> dsp9753 reported that his 2C2 *may* be able to hit high refresh rates; you should give it a shot anyways to see if it works.


Yeah, but I opened it to take a look, and it's at has some silver tape over a single connection, so I was taking it for granted. Do you by any chance have the like to how he did that?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrRetina*
> 
> Yeah, but I opened it to take a look, and it's at has some silver tape over a single connection, so I was taking it for granted. Do you by any chance have the like to how he did that?


If it's only got a single cable connecting the back of the panel to the DVI board then I don't think it'll be able to do high refresh rates.


----------



## kaizarsoze

What's the max resolution that you can get for this monitor with HDMI?


----------



## jbuschdev

I don't think you can run it HDMI simply because there is no scalar. I tried an HDMI to DVI cable and I don't remember it working.

And I don't think the earlier HDMI specs supported 2560 x 1440, 1.4 might.


----------



## PearlJammzz

If we can find one of these Korean monitors that has JUST a DisplayPort connection, 120hz MAY be feasible. It would be more likely to overclock and it could get past the ~97hz barrier everyone hits with the Nvidia cards. From my knowledge this is right about where dual-link DVI runs out of bandwidth.

That and DP is 1000x better.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

My Catleap just came in and its a 2B1, hopefully it will overclock!


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> My Catleap just came in and its a 2B1, hopefully it will overclock!


Who did you order from and when?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> If we can find one of these Korean monitors that has JUST a DisplayPort connection, 120hz MAY be feasible. It would be more likely to overclock and it could get past the ~97hz barrier everyone hits with the Nvidia cards. From my knowledge this is right about where dual-link DVI runs out of bandwidth.
> That and DP is 1000x better.


DisplayPort would make it less likely. Most implementations of DisplayPort have less bandwidth:

1 lane = 54 MHz, 90 MHz, or 180 MHz
2 lanes = 108 MHz, 180 MHz, or 360 MHz
4 lanes = 216 MHz, 360 MHz, or 720 MHz

We'd need 4 lanes running at full speed, and the panel, the controller boards, and the video card would all have to support that.

Dual-link DVI technically doesn't have a limit. The 97/100 Hz barrier is due to the video card not being able to handle a pixel clock beyond 400 MHz.

The single 30-pin connector on the ones that can't overclock is actually an internal DisplayPort connector:










I don't know if the 65/67 Hz limit (270 MHz limit?) is in the timing controller (t-con) board attached to the panel or the controller board for the monitor. If it's in the t-con board, then a monitor with JUST a DisplayPort connection probably won't overclock.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> My Catleap just came in and its a 2B1, hopefully it will overclock!


Did you order tempered glass?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Who did you order from and when?


I ordered on the 9th from Green sum
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Did you order tempered glass?


Yes with tempered glass.

Im very relieved that it fired right up, no dead pixels and looks gorgeous.
Stand leans a tad to the right, will have to get another stand.


----------



## larrydavid

I'm not entirely convinced anymore that changing the logic boards will make a monitor overclock. The panels are different -- the non-oc being SDA2 and the oc being a much newer SDE3 panel. The key could lie within the panel.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The single 30-pin connector on the ones that can't overclock is actually an internal DisplayPort connector:


That's a very interesting statement; are you sure, or is that an assumption? If it's true, why does the connector have 6 differential pairs instead of 5 (4 data plus 1 aux)? Would the dual-connector variant use displayport internally as well, or some other LVDS-style signaling? It looks like the OC variant has at least a couple more pairs to me...


----------



## PearlJammzz

So it seems we are still stuck at step 1? No one really knows? ha.

I did not know that Toasty, thanks for the info! Are there any Korean monitors that have DP on them that are around the same price? These guys seem to be willing to get whatever monitor we want as long as it's available in S. Korea? Specially where they aren't really stocking them but drop-shipping from the manufacturer.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> That's a very interesting statement; are you sure, or is that an assumption? If it's true, why does the connector have 6 differential pairs instead of 5 (4 data plus 1 aux)? Would the dual-connector variant use displayport internally as well, or some other LVDS-style signaling? It looks like the OC variant has at least a couple more pairs to me...


If you look at the model number of the board in the non-oc version, it says DP in the model number, which may signify Display Port. The oc model says DA -- which I'm unsure of the meaning of.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> I ordered on the 9th from Green sum
> Yes with tempered glass.
> Im very relieved that it fired right up, no dead pixels and looks gorgeous.
> Stand leans a tad to the right, will have to get another stand.


Cool, let us know if it OC's!


----------



## siberx

http://www.paradetech.com/products/displayport-display-products/dp628-4-lane-dp-tcon/

This parade timing controller looks likely to be the one used on the non-OC 2C variants (the pictures show that it is a Parade controller on the center board); ToastyX is correct that it takes a displayport signal in. The OC models use an LG-branded chip, but I haven't had a chance to look it up and figure out what kind of input it's taking. At least in the case of the 2Cs, the DVI board appears to be responsible for converting the 24V supply to whatever's needed for the rest of the system, as well as converting the dual-link DVI signal into a displayport one. Still not sure, though, whether it's really the dvi-displayport board or the timing controller itself that's imposing the 65Hz limit...


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> DON'T CARE - I'll buy a new set of boards every 6 months if I have to if they keep burning out. I just want my 100Hz LCD n_n
> I'm very interested to hear what you come up with here; please let us know as soon as you find anything out!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Scribby: Do you think the price for these boards will be reasonable enough to be worth switching over?
> I'm willing to wager that these boards will work in all of these LG 27" monitors -- Catleap, Achieva, Crossover, 3View, etc.


You would have to see what panel is being used - if it is the same as the Catleap, then I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsp9753*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I am new here but since I received a catleap, I figured I would put in my observations.
> I ordered the catleap on 3/9 and received it by 3/12. Super fast shipping, I was surprised.
> Now, I received a 2C2 model but I was able to overclock my monitor to 84hz given the settings earlier in this forum. While it does seem smoother, how can I tell I am actually receiving 84hz and not 60? or 65? That everyone is reporting that the 2C2 goes up to?
> CCC is reporting 84hz. My monitor is not displaying any weird lines/artifacts. I do not know if this makes a difference but I am using a 7970 with 2 dell 2007wfps at 75hz.
> I also have a ZR2740w monitor sitting right above my catleap on a monitor arm but its not plugged in.


Pics of the control panel and windows desktop settings would prove that out for us.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> If you look at the model number of the board in the non-oc version, it says DP in the model number, which may signify Display Port. The oc model says DA -- which I'm unsure of the meaning of.


The only way it works, obviously, is to switch both boards. I am trying to source them both plus the cables. Clearly, we couldn't just buy the panel PCB to have this work since the plug ins don't match up. If and when I get some responses I plan on tearing apart both of my monitors, switching the boards, and seeing if this actually works. Heck, I may do that on Monday anyway.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

It is easy to find the non-OC control board - *CLICKY* - I just cannot locate the OC one!

Still waiting . . . maybe the companies I contacted are trying to find someone who speaks English to translate my emails!


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It is easy to find the non-OC control board - *CLICKY* - I just cannot locate the OC one!
> 
> Still waiting . . . maybe the companies I contacted are trying to find someone who speaks English to translate my emails!


What about the fact that Thingyness brought up that the non-oc uses the LM270WQ1-SDA2 panel and the oc one uses the LM270WQ1-SDE3 panel?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> What about the fact that Thingyness brought up that the non-oc uses the LM270WQ1-SDA2 panel and the oc one uses the LM270WQ1-SDE3 panel?


Where'd that come from? My panels are both the same - SDA2 - along with another user here.

EDIT: Oh, know I see. No, it won't matter (I think) since the connector to the panels are the same. Both panels, either SDA2 or SDE3 use the LM270WQ1-SDA2 PCB to source the signal to the panel itself.

EDIT2; Although it could matter - lol. Going back to the Chinese sites I see that the the SDE3 panel (OC) uses eDP (4 lane) signal interface while the SDA2 panel (non-OC) is listed as a display port signal interface. Now this may simply be referencing the PCB on the panel itself, the one I am trying to find, rather than anything intrinsically different in the panels themselves.

I will definitely tear apart both panels on Monday and check what panels I have and then swap the components from OC to non-OC and non-OC to OC to see what's what. Of course, this could be an $800 exercise in trashing my monitors, but hey it's for science!


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I will definitely tear apart both panels on Monday and check what panels I have and then swap the components from OC to non-OC and non-OC to OC to see what's what. Of course, this could be an $800 exercise in trashing my monitors, but hey it's for science!


REALLY looking forward to this! Why Monday, and not right now?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> That's a very interesting statement; are you sure, or is that an assumption? If it's true, why does the connector have 6 differential pairs instead of 5 (4 data plus 1 aux)? Would the dual-connector variant use displayport internally as well, or some other LVDS-style signaling? It looks like the OC variant has at least a couple more pairs to me...


I'm sure. Most of the pins correspond directly to DisplayPort, along with some extra pins for power and DDC.

The pin configuration is available in the official datasheet:
http://lcdtech.no-ip.info/download/specs/LG%20Display/LM270WQ1%20(SD)(A2).pdf

I'm not sure what the dual-connector variant uses, but two people here got the same panel revision with different connectors, so the t-con boards might be interchangeable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> I'm not entirely convinced anymore that changing the logic boards will make a monitor overclock. The panels are different -- the non-oc being SDA2 and the oc being a much newer SDE3 panel. The key could lie within the panel.


I've seen several different panels posted here, including both versions with (SD)(A2):

(SD)(A2) with single connector:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/340#post_16696411

(SD)(A2) with two connectors:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16705183

(SD)(B1) with single connector:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16704944

(SD)(E3) with two connectors:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/400#post_16699758


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

The good news is that the SDE3 panel is still in production so parts should be available from someone.


----------



## Faster_is_better

So now you're trying to find a board to allow these newer revisions to OC? How difficult will it be to replace these if this works out? Is it like unplugging one and plugging in another, or soldering some stuff?

Crazy peeps, buying these monitors international with possibly no warranty, just to open them up and OC them









Interested to see how this plays out!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrRetina*
> 
> REALLY looking forward to this! Why Monday, and not right now?


I'm off to the pub with my hottie for lunch!







I am in training for St. Paddies Day!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> So now you're trying to find a board to allow these newer revisions to OC? How difficult will it be to replace these if this works out? Is it like unplugging one and plugging in another, or soldering some stuff?
> Crazy peeps, buying these monitors international with possibly no warranty, just to open them up and OC them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Interested to see how this plays out!


It is super easy to swap if we can find the right PCBs. I could swap the internals and have it up and running (hopefully assuming the internals don't make the panel nutty) in about 10 minutes now I think! I ran across another Chinese supplier looking for panels and sent another email out!


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I'm off to the pub with my hottie for lunch!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am in training for St. Paddies Day!


Alright, you are excused.









Can someone please link to "ToastyX's instructions" on how to change refresh rate on AMD? I can't find a link to it on the first page on the thread.

Found them under Custom resolutions!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I'm sure. Most of the pins correspond directly to DisplayPort, along with some extra pins for power and DDC.
> The pin configuration is available in the official datasheet:
> http://lcdtech.no-ip.info/download/specs/LG%20Display/LM270WQ1%20(SD)(A2).pdf
> I'm not sure what the dual-connector variant uses, but two people here got the same panel revision with different connectors, so the t-con boards might be interchangeable.
> I've seen several different panels posted here, including both versions with (SD)(A2):
> (SD)(A2) with single connector:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/340#post_16696411
> (SD)(A2) with two connectors:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16705183
> (SD)(B1) with single connector:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16704944
> (SD)(E3) with two connectors:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/400#post_16699758


I could be completely wrong, and about to trash $800 worth of monitors on Monday, but this is leading me to believe there is hope and my initial thought that just swapping PCBs will work. If you have 2 SDA2s with different internals then this should work right? Someone give me a hug I am a little nervous about this swap.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I could be completely wrong, and about to trash $800 worth of monitors on Monday, but this is leading me to believe there is hope and my initial thought that just swapping PCBs will work. If you have 2 SDA2s with different internals then this should work right? Someone give me a hug I am a little nervous about this swap.


You can do it!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Another PCB source email sent. Man, these Chinese are slow in responding!

Alright - off to the pub! Have a great weekend all!


----------



## ThingyNess

Apparently i've been posting in the wrong thread. Just a heads up that eDP and DP for our purposes are going to be the same thing. All these monitors use eDP internally to communicate between the panel and the control board. The main distinction is between LVDS and eDP and the difference between those are very obvious when put side by side. Quad-channel LVDS has 40 signal pins vs 8 for eDP.

http://www.vesa.org/wp-content/uploads/2010/12/DisplayPort-DevCon-Presentation-eDP-Dec-2010-v3.pdf


----------



## JKClubs

Mine finally arrived this morning. I got the Q270 with Tempered Glass and it looks flawless. Zero dead pixels, no dust behind the screen and great image quality. The only negative is that it is the 2C version.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKClubs*
> 
> Mine finally arrived this morning. I got the Q270 with Tempered Glass and it looks flawless. Zero dead pixels, no dust behind the screen and great image quality. The only negative is that it is the 2C version.


Who did you order from?


----------



## bQvle

guess thats the first tempered glass C2 delivered we heard of.
I got 2 on the way, so chances are they will be C2 aswell. hmf!


----------



## DrRetina

Just tried to OC my 2C2 with silver tape over the connector and I can't get it to do more than 66hz.. bummer, but still an amazing screen.


----------



## dsp9753

Sorry guys,

I just realized I had the settings incorrect on my computer. My catleap 2c2 is unable to do 84hz. Haha, silly me.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dsp9753*
> 
> Sorry guys,
> I just realized I had the settings incorrect on my computer. My catleap 2c2 is unable to do 84hz. Haha, silly me.


Thanks for the update - we're still par for the course with 2B's and 2C's with respect to overclocking then.


----------



## rayjay

Finally got 2 speakerless 2C Catleaps from dream-seller today, no dead pixels and they do 65hz. Ordered on the 6th, one shipped on 8th and the other on the 12th.

The stand is the opposite of quality. Replaced them with HP branded Ergotron single monitor arms which makes a huge difference. Stock stand was a bit of a pain to take off, but the second one took a quarter of the time.

I'll take some pics after I clean up my desk.


----------



## kaizarsoze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> I don't think you can run it HDMI simply because there is no scalar. I tried an HDMI to DVI cable and I don't remember it working.
> And I don't think the earlier HDMI specs supported 2560 x 1440, 1.4 might.


I was referring to the 'multi' model Catleap that has HDMI, DVI-D, ... ports. I'm sure it must work on that model, just wondering what the resolution output might be when I hook it up via HDMI.


----------



## Mr Ripper

I just tried my xbox 360 on my plain Catleap (1x DVI only) and it works if I have it set to detect display and 1280x720 resolution. This was with a HDMI to DVI cable.


----------



## kaizarsoze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> I just tried my xbox 360 on my plain Catleap (1x DVI only) and it works if I have it set to detect display and 1280x720 resolution. This was with a HDMI to DVI cable.


That's what I thought, thanks. Still want to find out if it can do more (i.e. at least 1080p)


----------



## siberx

Just did some numbers and discovered an interesting point;
Assuming you spec a set of boards/hardware designed to run a panel at 2560x1600 at 60Hz (nobody really seems to make drivers/controllers spec'ed for 1440), that hardware will be able to run at up to 66.7Hz when using 2560x1440 for the same signaling rates - suspiciously close to what all the non-OC Q270's are hitting.


----------



## ThingyNess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaizarsoze*
> 
> That's what I thought, thanks. Still want to find out if it can do more (i.e. at least 1080p)


It's not going to do 1080p because the monitor lacks any scaling hardware.

720p is easy because this monitor's panel is exactly 2x the resolution of 720p in both vertical and horizontal directions, so it does not need to scale or interpolate the image to display 720p; it can perform a simple 1 -> 4 input pixel to output pixel mapping. Each input pixel of the 720p signal will be output on a cluster of 4 pixels on the display, which does not require any processing power.

1280 x 2 = 2560
720 x 2 = 1440

I've seen the EDID information on the Datasheets from LG, and 720p and 1440p are the only two input resolutions allowed.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kaizarsoze*
> 
> That's what I thought, thanks. Still want to find out if it can do more (i.e. at least 1080p)


If I manually set 1080p it doesn't display.

Nearly all games run at 720p or lower i.e. 600p or so. I guess the only benefit of 1080p is the gpu scaler (it works quite well on native 1080p monitors). Although I can't imagine scaling to 1080p and then the monitor scaling that to 1440p (if it worked) would look that great.

To sort out my sound I've bought http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290570143384 to use my PC speakers (sub has rca inputs).

A post on xbox 360 resolutions: http://forum.beyond3d.com/showpost.php?s=620af7e271ac2c74eedf6a45ca00acc8&p=1113344&postcount=3


----------



## kaizarsoze

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThingyNess*
> 
> It's not going to do 1080p because the monitor lacks any scaling hardware.
> 720p is easy because this monitor's panel is exactly 2x the resolution of 720p in both vertical and horizontal directions, so it does not need to scale or interpolate the image to display 720p; it can perform a simple 1 -> 4 input pixel to output pixel mapping. Each input pixel of the 720p signal will be output on a cluster of 4 pixels on the display, which does not require any processing power.
> 1280 x 2 = 2560
> 720 x 2 = 1440
> I've seen the EDID information on the Datasheets from LG, and 720p and 1440p are the only two input resolutions allowed.


Thanks for the info. Not sure if you saw my earlier post, but I'm referring to the Catleap 'multi port' monitor that has HDMI (and with it a scaler). Would it be possible in that case?

To add some context, I'm planning on connecting this to a laptop which only has a VGA and a HDMI port. Before I drop $400+ on a monitor, I wanted to make sure if can atleast display at or above 1080p.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I'm sure. Most of the pins correspond directly to DisplayPort, along with some extra pins for power and DDC.
> The pin configuration is available in the official datasheet:
> http://lcdtech.no-ip.info/download/specs/LG%20Display/LM270WQ1%20(SD)(A2).pdf
> I'm not sure what the dual-connector variant uses, but two people here got the same panel revision with different connectors, so the t-con boards might be interchangeable.
> I've seen several different panels posted here, including both versions with (SD)(A2):
> (SD)(A2) with single connector:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/340#post_16696411
> (SD)(A2) with two connectors:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16705183
> (SD)(B1) with single connector:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16704944
> (SD)(E3) with two connectors:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/400#post_16699758


See, what's starting to be a real head-scratcher to me is why we're seeing SDA2 and SDE3 variants with the dual connectors (which means they're 2-channel LVDS from the DVI board to the T-con, instead of eDP). Searching online indicates that the version of this panel with LVDS interfaces should be the LM270WQ1-SLA1, so either the numbers are messed up or somebody along the manufacturing line is already swapping the T-cons on these panels to eDP ones... strange.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> See, what's starting to be a real head-scratcher to me is why we're seeing SDA2 and SDE3 variants with the dual connectors (which means they're 2-channel LVDS from the DVI board to the T-con, instead of eDP). Searching online indicates that the version of this panel with LVDS interfaces should be the LM270WQ1-SLA1, so either the numbers are messed up or somebody along the manufacturing line is already swapping the T-cons on these panels to eDP ones... strange.


*siberx* I'm getting confused. To get 100 hz we should have any panel with eDP (4 lane or higher) or quad channel LDVS, right? If not...mmm maybe you or somebody can write the final "configuration" to run it









Is refresh rate of the panel depends only on controller in the monitor? If not then all 100 hz IPS panels will be dead sooner or later.

I found two TN Panels with 120hz refresh rate. 4 channels LDVS, other 60hz comes with only 2 channels
http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=1914
http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=1915

In the monday thread starter will tel us is it possible to swap the pcb's and run Q270's at high refresh rate.b:


----------



## Master Freez

LM270WQ1-SLA1 & LM270WQ1-SDE3 are both in production now, but not in stock, so if they are can run 100 hz without burning we could wait for it.


----------



## NameMakingSux

I just want a 27 inch IPS monitor that I can run at 100hz. I've been following these since day one. I really hope I find out I can get one for sure soon. I'd hate to have wasted hours of my life reading 3000 + posts to just to learn i had a 1 week window of opportunity to get one.


----------



## Master Freez

You are not the only one. My engineer says that panel usually dies on the not supported refresh rate







Still no cases with burning or something like that,but i'm not totally sure that this is normal, according to panel specs on the website.

Hmm...there is even the 27 inch 120 hz 1080p panels http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=14490 Hmm...MVA...


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I could be completely wrong, and about to trash $800 worth of monitors on Monday, but this is leading me to believe there is hope and my initial thought that just swapping PCBs will work. If you have 2 SDA2s with different internals then this should work right?


It looks like it should work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It is super easy to swap if we can find the right PCBs.


The problem is finding the right boards. I think the t-con board comes with the panel, so finding them individually may be hard. Also, LG is phasing out LVDS in favor of DisplayPort, so if the overclockable one uses LVDS, we may have a hard time finding it.

If the t-con board is not the limiting factor, then we simply need a different controller board for the monitor, one that can take the 30-pin DisplayPort connector without limiting refresh rates. Another crazy idea is to try bypassing the controller altogether by making a custom DisplayPort adapter cable to connect the video card directly to the t-con board to directly drive the panel, leaving the extra pins for power and DDC connected to the monitor's controller board. I'm not sure how well that would work, but DisplayPort was designed so that it could be directly driven.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> See, what's starting to be a real head-scratcher to me is why we're seeing SDA2 and SDE3 variants with the dual connectors (which means they're 2-channel LVDS from the DVI board to the T-con, instead of eDP). Searching online indicates that the version of this panel with LVDS interfaces should be the LM270WQ1-SLA1, so either the numbers are messed up or somebody along the manufacturing line is already swapping the T-cons on these panels to eDP ones... strange.


I'm wondering the same. I think the L in (SL) stands for LVDS, and the D in (SD) stands for DisplayPort, so the question is, why are some SD panels coming with SL boards? I also noticed on a couple of the pictures that the panel model sticker is covering another sticker.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I'm wondering the same. I think the L in (SL) stands for LVDS, and the D in (SD) stands for DisplayPort, so the question is, why are some SD panels coming with SL boards? I also noticed on a couple of the pictures that the panel model sticker is covering another sticker.


wonders of Korea


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> *siberx* I'm getting confused. To get 100 hz we should have any panel with eDP (4 lane or higher) or quad channel LDVS, right? If not...mmm maybe you or somebody can write the final "configuration" to run it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is refresh rate of the panel depends only on controller in the monitor? If not then all 100 hz IPS panels will be dead sooner or later.
> I found two TN Panels with 120hz refresh rate. 4 channels LDVS, other 60hz comes with only 2 channels
> http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=1914
> http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=1915
> In the monday thread starter will tel us is it possible to swap the pcb's and run Q270's at high refresh rate.b:


From what I can see, all the panels that have done high refresh rates use 2 connectors and appear to connect internally using LVDS (4ch or dual 2ch). All the panels that *don't* do high refresh rates use 4-lane eDP over a single 30-pin connector.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> If the t-con board is not the limiting factor, then we simply need a different controller board for the monitor, one that can take the 30-pin DisplayPort connector without limiting refresh rates. Another crazy idea is to try bypassing the controller altogether by making a custom DisplayPort adapter cable to connect the video card directly to the t-con board to directly drive the panel, leaving the extra pins for power and DDC connected to the monitor's controller board. I'm not sure how well that would work, but DisplayPort was designed so that it could be directly driven.


I don't think this is really as crazy as you make it out to be; it's definitely a worthwhile avenue of exploration if we can't source the boards otherwise, but considering the manufacturer change for the main T-con chip between the two (from LG to Parade) my money is on the T-con being the limiting factor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I could be completely wrong, and about to trash $800 worth of monitors on Monday, but this is leading me to believe there is hope and my initial thought that just swapping PCBs will work. If you have 2 SDA2s with different internals then this should work right? Someone give me a hug I am a little nervous about this swap.


Everything I've read and seen about these monitors indicates they're all absolutely identical from after the center PCB (timing controller, or T-con) all the way out to the pixels. Unless when swapping them there's something Obviously Wrong (tm) like the two ribbon cables being different pin counts or spacings, it's pretty much inconceivable that there would be any difference past that point. If it matters to you or reassures you more I'm an electrical engineer, so I know some things about circuit design.

If you want more reassurance, you can compare this datasheet's diagram:
http://www.docin.com/p-322778350.html (which is the high-hz version)
to this one's:
http://lcdtech.no-ip.info/download/specs/LG%20Display/LM270WQ1%20(SD)(A2).pdf (which is the low-hz)
And notice that they're effectively identical; they both specify "Mini-LVDS (RGB)" between the timing controller and the actual drivers.

It looks to me that if we can't source DVI boards from the manufacturer, the NT09S units from these guys:
http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/sub_02_1.asp
Look like they'd be suitable for driving the LVDS version of the timing controller. They can provide cables, too, by their spec sheets.

BTW,
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493
Is this not the part we're looking for?
EDIT: That's listed as being for the LM270WQ2 (instead of Q1) which is the CCFL version, but is there actually a difference between them at the timing controller? I'm not so sure they *are* different.
http://www.hy-line.de/fileadmin/hy-line/computer/csv/datasheets/LM270WQ2-SLA1_CAS_General_P1Ver0.4_090713.pdf
This is the spec sheet for the CCFL version, which shows exactly the same connector layout as the LED backlit LVDS version (with the two connectors) so I'd wager the T-cons for the two different kinds of backlights are no different.


----------



## ThingyNess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> It looks like it should work.
> The problem is finding the right boards. I think the t-con board comes with the panel, so finding them individually may be hard. Also, LG is phasing out LVDS in favor of DisplayPort, so if the overclockable one uses LVDS, we may have a hard time finding it.
> If the t-con board is not the limiting factor, then we simply need a different controller board for the monitor, one that can take the 30-pin DisplayPort connector without limiting refresh rates. Another crazy idea is to try bypassing the controller altogether by making a custom DisplayPort adapter cable to connect the video card directly to the t-con board to directly drive the panel, leaving the extra pins for power and DDC connected to the monitor's controller board. I'm not sure how well that would work, but DisplayPort was designed so that it could be directly driven.
> I'm wondering the same. I think the L in (SL) stands for LVDS, and the D in (SD) stands for DisplayPort, so the question is, why are some SD panels coming with SL boards? I also noticed on a couple of the pictures that the panel model sticker is covering another sticker.


You read my mind. I'd had the same thought about rigging up a DP -> eDP cable, given that the signalling is supposed to be the same. I haven't checked to see whether anything needs to be level shifted or not, but my instinct says no.

Also, amusingly enough, the datasheet for the Parade DP628 also explicitly says it supports 10-bit (A-FRC) output, which I think one of the panels in the mix that we've seen for far actually supports too.

I've asked them for a Datasheet and any App Notes they might have. Our efforts might be best focused on just reprogramming the DP628 over I2C with our own Microcontroller, given that the hardware actaully seems to support most of what we want and then some.

It even claims "A scaler function is included to provide a full screen display for lower resolution video that may occure during Safe Mode or other DOS modes. Full screen display is supported for input modes such as 640×480, 800×600, and 1024×768."

Seems odd that the capability for that scaling seems to either not be enabled, or stripped/disabled by something further up the display chain like the TMDS -> DP converter(s)


----------



## CTM Audi

For an IPS, LED, AG, 27in, 2560x1440 monitor @ sub $400, does it REALLY matter if you get over 60hz? Yeah its nice for the ones that do, but if it cant it doesnt change how amazing this deal is. Apple and Dell charge $1000 without the high refresh rate.

At least to me anyway. Ill be happy to _finally_ have a true high res monitor (I tried SLI surround with three 26in 1920x1200s, and didnt like it at all).

Im thinking this is going to be my general use screen, and Ill pick up a 120Hz monitor specificly for gaming at some point to try it out. Even though I barely ever play games anymore


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Ordered a catleap SE last night. Shipped today, and eta is mon - wed. Aside from the model difference and overclockability, how do these displays look ran normal?


----------



## necriss

Nice work Siberx, so the T-con maybe the limiting factor not the actual eDP control board ? Hrmm but for it to connect to the T-Con it would need to be LVDS right since its 2 connectors...

This item you linked specifically states 120hz. Interesting

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> For an IPS, LED, AG, 27in, 2560x1440 monitor @ sub $400, does it REALLY matter if you get over 60hz? Yeah its nice for the ones that do, but if it cant it doesnt change how amazing this deal is. Apple and Dell charge $1000 without the high refresh rate.
> At least to me anyway. Ill be happy to _finally_ have a true high res monitor (I tried SLI surround with three 26in 1920x1200s, and didnt like it at all).
> Im thinking this is going to be my general use screen, and Ill pick up a 120Hz monitor specificly for gaming at some point to try it out. Even though I barely ever play games anymore


Yes, Apple and Dell charge $1000 without the high refresh rate - what if we want the high refresh rate though, at *any* cost? Got a link to another 2560x1440 (or better) IPS panel that does 100Hz+ (cost irrelevant)? The fact that we can probably get it cheap is (for some of us) just a very handy bonus. If we can throw another X number of dollars at the monitor to gain the high refresh rate, that would be worth it to a number of people.

Also Scribby, this posting:
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=15158988861
Lacks a picture and has a vague description, but it's some kind of logic board related to these monitors. If we could get a picture out of that guy we may find it's a T-con as well, just poorly labeled...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Nice work Siberx, so the T-con maybe the limiting factor not the actual eDP control board ? Hrmm but for it to connect to the T-Con it would need to be LVDS right since its 2 connectors...
> This item you linked specifically states 120hz. Interesting
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493


Well, the timing controller (or T-con) is apparently the big central chip on what we were calling the "Center board"; all those center boards seem to output the same signals to the display, but there's two versions with a different timing controller chip on it and different corresponding interfaces; the LG-branded T-con chip is on a center board with 2 LVDS connectors, and the Parade T-con chip (the lower refresh one) is on a center board with a single eDP connector.

Either of these center boards is driven from a DVI board (Where you plug your DVI cable in) that produces either dual 2-channel LVDS (for the LG T-con) or eDP (for the Parade T-con). The "tougher" part is probably sourcing the center board, as it's generally sold with the LCD panel itself. The DVI board is added by the monitor manufacturer (Yamakasi in our case) so there should be more choice or options there.


----------



## larrydavid

Someone on Ebay has the T-Con board I believe http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSync-PA271W-T-CON-BOARD-6870C-0300B-/370548645486?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56466b9e6e


----------



## jagz

1280MB of vram isn't enough for one of these Catleaps playing BF3 @ 2560x1440 is it. Just asking for a friend, I'd say no, def not.


----------



## ThingyNess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> From what I can see, all the panels that have done high refresh rates use 2 connectors and appear to connect internally using LVDS (4ch or dual 2ch). All the panels that *don't* do high refresh rates use 4-lane eDP over a single 30-pin connector.
> I don't think this is really as crazy as you make it out to be; it's definitely a worthwhile avenue of exploration if we can't source the boards otherwise, but considering the manufacturer change for the main T-con chip between the two (from LG to Parade) my money is on the T-con being the limiting factor.
> Everything I've read and seen about these monitors indicates they're all absolutely identical from after the center PCB (timing controller, or T-con) all the way out to the pixels. Unless when swapping them there's something Obviously Wrong (tm) like the two ribbon cables being different pin counts or spacings, it's pretty much inconceivable that there would be any difference past that point. If it matters to you or reassures you more I'm an electrical engineer, so I know some things about circuit design.
> If you want more reassurance, you can compare this datasheet's diagram:
> http://www.docin.com/p-322778350.html (which is the high-hz version)
> to this one's:
> http://lcdtech.no-ip.info/download/specs/LG%20Display/LM270WQ1%20(SD)(A2).pdf (which is the low-hz)
> And notice that they're effectively identical; they both specify "Mini-LVDS (RGB)" between the timing controller and the actual drivers.
> It looks to me that if we can't source DVI boards from the manufacturer, the NT09S units from these guys:
> http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/sub_02_1.asp
> Look like they'd be suitable for driving the LVDS version of the timing controller. They can provide cables, too, by their spec sheets.
> BTW,
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493
> Is this not the part we're looking for?
> EDIT: That's listed as being for the LM270WQ2 (instead of Q1) which is the CCFL version, but is there actually a difference between them at the timing controller? I'm not so sure they *are* different.
> http://www.hy-line.de/fileadmin/hy-line/computer/csv/datasheets/LM270WQ2-SLA1_CAS_General_P1Ver0.4_090713.pdf
> This is the spec sheet for the CCFL version, which shows exactly the same connector layout as the LED backlit LVDS version (with the two connectors) so I'd wager the T-cons for the two different kinds of backlights are no different.


Okay, last random thought I'll put into this thread for a little bit:

From iFixit's 27" iMac teardown, you can see that it uses the LM270WQ1-SDA2. Since it's an embedded display, Apple got to reduce their bill of materials by a ton by ONLY allowing a displayport input - given the lack of any other input circuitry listed in the teardown, I think they use the displayport input on the monitor to drive the scaler (which is presumably the DP628 just like our eDP models.

I wonder if any 27" iMac owners have tried feeding the external displayport INPUT on their iMac with a real computer (AKA, a PC) that had a displayport output with programmable timings like a modern NVidia/AMD card. I wonder how it would cope with 85-100hz inputs? It'd give us some quick and easy insight into what might happen if we rigged up our own displayport cable to feed into the T-Con on the eDP panels and bypassed the TMDS (DVI) -> eDP converters inside the monitor.

Interestingly, the 27" Thunderbolt display still uses eDP internally (and DP externally), but uses the B3 revision displayport panel like some of the newer Korean 27" monitors have been getting.
http://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Apple-Thunderbolt-Display-Teardown/6525/1

I wonder if the B3 panels are significantly improved / more reliable versus the A1/A2 versions?

Also, I'd be reeeealllly curious to see how dead-simple the 27" Cinema display is inside versus the thunderbolt version, given that it also only supports DisplayPort input.
http://store.apple.com/ca/product/MC007LL/A


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Someone on Ebay has the T-Con board I believe http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSync-PA271W-T-CON-BOARD-6870C-0300B-/370548645486?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56466b9e6e


Quite expensive compared to the chinese source, but if someone wants to purchase to test out the conversion for us by all means please do.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> 1280MB of vram isn't enough for one of these Catleaps playing BF3 @ 2560x1440 is it. Just asking for a friend, I'd say no, def not.


1x 580 is enough to drive it at 1440p for 60hz, You'll possibly need 2x 680 for 100hz at 1440p.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> 1x 580 is enough to drive it at 1440p for 60hz, You'll possibly need 2x 680 for 100hz at 1440p.


Not asking about my card. My friends is a GTX 570, 1.2GB. I don't think that's enough vram. Is it? (BF3.. Uses ALOT)


----------



## necriss

Its enough, 570 can easily reach 580 speeds with some OC.

see http://www.overclock.net/t/951314/overclocked-570-vs-580


----------



## suicideidiot321

where can i get one of these?


----------



## ThingyNess

Never mind.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Someone on Ebay has the T-Con board I believe http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSync-PA271W-T-CON-BOARD-6870C-0300B-/370548645486?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item56466b9e6e


Intriguing. It gives us another avenue for sourcing parts anyways, as at least some of the PA271W monitors apparently use the same T-Con we're aiming for
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThingyNess*
> 
> The timing controller is actually built into the LCD panel (or at least attached to it).
> See here:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a
> 
> Hard to see from the washed out picture, but I can see the Parade logo and the small eDP cable on that one.


Yes, it is attached to the back of the LCD - but it differs between variants of the same panel. It should be entirely possible to unstick it and replace it (assuming we can source replacements)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Quite expensive compared to the chinese source, but if someone wants to purchase to test out the conversion for us by all means please do.
> 1x 580 is enough to drive it at 1440p for 60hz, You'll possibly need 2x 680 for 100hz at 1440p.


It's probably not worth buying until we can source a DVI board and cable that'll match up with it. The DVI board I linked earlier (from ICS) would work for driving the LCD with the right cabling, but the backlight would be an issue as ICS' board is designed to drive a CCFL backlight.


----------



## Somenamehere

Before anyone else makes the same mistake I did, do not use goo gone to get the stickers off the monitor. Eats right through the plastic.

Spent an hour sanding the bezel down so it looks smooth. Still needs polish but looks much better.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> 1280MB of vram isn't enough for one of these Catleaps playing BF3 @ 2560x1440 is it. Just asking for a friend, I'd say no, def not.


Why not? Depends on the card, but if its anything decent, it will play, but frame rate and settings will vary depending on the card.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Before anyone else makes the same mistake I did, do not use goo gone to get the stickers off the monitor. Eats right through the plastic.
> Spent an hour sanding the bezel down so it looks smooth. Still needs polish but looks much better.


Really? Goo-gone worked fine for me... then rubbing alcohol/distilled water mix to clean it up after that.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Its enough, 570 can easily reach 580 speeds with some OC.
> see http://www.overclock.net/t/951314/overclocked-570-vs-580


Not at all what I asked. Just.. nvm.


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Why not? Depends on the card, but if its anything decent, it will play, but frame rate and settings will vary depending on the card.


Meh, crank down AA and you're good. At this res jaggies are less noticeable.


----------



## alamone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThingyNess*
> 
> Okay, last random thought I'll put into this thread for a little bit:
> From iFixit's 27" iMac teardown, you can see that it uses the LM270WQ1-SDA2. Since it's an embedded display, Apple got to reduce their bill of materials by a ton by ONLY allowing a displayport input - given the lack of any other input circuitry listed in the teardown, I think they use the displayport input on the monitor to drive the scaler (which is presumably the DP628 just like our eDP models.
> I wonder if any 27" iMac owners have tried feeding the external displayport INPUT on their iMac with a real computer (AKA, a PC) that had a displayport output with programmable timings like a modern NVidia/AMD card. I wonder how it would cope with 85-100hz inputs? It'd give us some quick and easy insight into what might happen if we rigged up our own displayport cable to feed into the T-Con on the eDP panels and bypassed the TMDS (DVI) -> eDP converters inside the monitor.


I have the 27" iMac (2009) with the displayport. I use it with my PC with a GTX 590 (has 3 DVI, 1 displayport).
If I try to go above 65hz, I get the exact same symptoms as the Catleap C revision (corrupt screen with vertical lines).


----------



## rayjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Really? Goo-gone worked fine for me... then rubbing alcohol/distilled water mix to clean it up after that.


No problems with googone here, either. The residue was annoying though.


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Really? Goo-gone worked fine for me... then rubbing alcohol/distilled water mix to clean it up after that.


Just did some googling around and it was goo gone xtreme which melts plastic ...


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> No problems with googone here, either. The residue was annoying though.


Residue was annoying. I used cooking spray on a coffee filter to break it down some, then alcohol to clean it up.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Guys im trying to overclock my monitor I have 75hz in cru under detailed resolutions. What else do I need to do?
My monitors serial is a 2B1

Edit: I just tried running skyrim with 75hz and it is very choppy and unplayable. Its not usually like this with normal Hz.


----------



## utnorris

All I have to say is this monitor rocks. Just finished playing a a few minutes of CIV V and about an hour of COD BO and man, this is friggin awesome!!! I was playing BF2142 earlier and was like eh, but of the newer games, friggin rocks. Although on COD BO, my two GTX580's were barely being tasked and I never went over 60FPS, so I guess it is a vsync issue, anyone know where to fix that? Seriously, even though it cannot overclock, this monitor is awesome, friggin awesome!!!


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Intriguing. It gives us another avenue for sourcing parts anyways, as at least some of the PA271W monitors apparently use the same T-Con we're aiming for
> .


Its interesting the LVDS T-Con is designed a year later than the eDP one according to front page info. Manufacturers probably sourced an older batch of eDP panels for "2C"?
So monitors in the future maybe LVDS (100hz+) again? But this will probably take a few months.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Its interesting the LVDS T-Con is designed a year later than the eDP one according to front page info. Manufacturers probably sourced an older batch of eDP panels for "2C"?
> So monitors in the future maybe LVDS (100hz+) again? But this will probably take a few months.


Tough to say - you are right that the design dates seem reversed, but the eDP panel itself seems to be a newer design... it's also very likely cheaper to produce, so the manufacturer may not have much incentive to go back to the LVDS variant.


----------



## rayjay

Loving the monitors so far. Don't mind that they're 2C's with the single panel plug, 65hz max.


----------



## suicideidiot321

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> 
> Loving the monitors so far. Don't mind that they're 2C's with the single panel plug, 65hz max.


that is a beautiful setup


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> 
> Loving the monitors so far. Don't mind that they're 2C's with the single panel plug, 65hz max.


I assumed you opened them up to find out? If so, how difficult was it? Scribby makes it seem pretty straight forward, but I figured it would be good to get another person's opinion.


----------



## omekone

Anyone getting a split second image corruption? every few hours? It is so fast a blink will make you miss it.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omekone*
> 
> Anyone getting a split second image corruption? every few hours? It is so fast a blink will make you miss it.


Haven't seen that at all. Occasionally I get red corruption at my windows logo screen during startup, but the image is flawless after that

Just found these guys:
http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/sub_01_2.asp

They source and provide all kinds of bits and pieces (LED backlight drivers, controllers, LCD drivers, etc...) that are very relevant to our interests. I sent some emails inquiring about what they can source, I'll post if I get anything back from them.


----------



## rayjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I assumed you opened them up to find out? If so, how difficult was it? Scribby makes it seem pretty straight forward, but I figured it would be good to get another person's opinion.


Very easy following Scribby's instructions for stand removal. Hard part for me was removing the bezel without damaging it. I found running a flathead screw driver slowly between the bezels and rotating the screw driver works better than prying.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> I'm not entirely convinced anymore that changing the logic boards will make a monitor overclock. The panels are different -- the non-oc being SDA2 and the oc being a much newer SDE3 panel. The key could lie within the panel.


mine is SDA2 and overclocks. I do not think it is the panel


----------



## HyperMatrix

I found display oddities with the standard cable provided. Bought a proper one for $20 and haven't had a single issue with the monitor yet.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> Very easy following Scribby's instructions for stand removal. Hard part for me was removing the bezel without damaging it. I found running a flathead screw driver slowly between the bezels and rotating the screw driver works better than prying.


That's exactly my biggest issue. Will definitely try that if/when my stand ever gets here. Thanks!


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Before anyone else makes the same mistake I did, do not use goo gone to get the stickers off the monitor. Eats right through the plastic.
> Spent an hour sanding the bezel down so it looks smooth. Still needs polish but looks much better.


ProTip - Vegetable oil.

Really.

BB


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omekone*
> 
> Anyone getting a split second image corruption? every few hours? It is so fast a blink will make you miss it.


Not getting that on my Catleap, though it's happening on occasion on the secondary Dell U2412M. Sounds like a vid card issue?

BB


----------



## necriss

Has anyone found out a way to bypass Nvidia's 400 pixel clock limit? Used to be possible with powerstrip but that doesn't support new graphics cards.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Has anyone found out a way to bypass Nvidia's 400 pixel clock limit? Used to be possible with powerstrip but that doesn't support new graphics cards.


100Hz not good enough for you?


----------



## necriss

haha just curious because the t-con is rated at 120hz, so the ramdac is the limiting factor?

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493

Higher refresh rates don't work properly on lower resolutions, due to the lack of a scaler perhaps.


----------



## Gloomy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> 
> Loving the monitors so far. Don't mind that they're 2C's with the single panel plug, 65hz max.


Nice keyboard. What's that TV you got on the wall?


----------



## Master Freez

*People*,two questions which were skipped by high flow of the posts in other big thread:

When you wathing something for a long time or just leave the IPS monitor turned on, can you see some traces of the previous images? Like white text\cloud\figures.... It's *important* for me because S-PVA tv already burned a little bit & it's probably possible to affect the IPS when side monitors just shows the static picture









So do you have this "little problem" and after what time of the static image delay on the screen?

Thanks in advance!









P.S: *rayjay*, looks very nice! But Filco mechanical keyboard is the killer of any setup







Especially when it has loud clicking Cherry MX Blue keys (don't know which comes in your model - Blue\Brown\Black)


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> *People*,two questions which were skipped by high flow of the posts in other big thread:
> When you wathing something for a long time or just leave the IPS monitor turned on, can you see some traces of the previous images? Like white text\cloud\figures.... It's *important* for me because S-PVA tv already burned a little bit & it's probably possible to affect the IPS when side monitors just shows the static picture
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So do you have this "little problem" and after what time of the static image delay on the screen?
> Thanks in advance!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S: *rayjay*, looks very nice! But Filco mechanical keyboard is the killer of any setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially when it has loud clicking Cherry MX Blue keys (don't know which comes in your model - Blue\Brown\Black)


IPS displays shouldn't burn in. Lower quality ones may get stuck pixels but that is almost always fixable.


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Not at all what I asked. Just.. nvm.


I'd say 1.2gb of VRAM is pushing it to play at 2560x1440 with any AA or high graphic settings, best guess would be to play BF3 on this display you would need to have medium to high mixed settings, turn MSAA off and only use FXAA with AO no more than SSAO (probably off) or your going to hit your vram limit constantly.

Hope this helps


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> I'd say 1.2gb of VRAM is pushing it to play at 2560x1440 with any AA or high graphic settings, best guess would be to play BF3 on this display you would need to have medium to high mixed settings, turn MSAA off and only use FXAA with AO no more than SSAO (probably off) or your going to hit your vram limit constantly.
> Hope this helps


We don't have to use the highest resolution, we can set just 1920x1080 & save 1,7 megapixels of load in every frame)


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> We don't have to use the highest resolution, we can set just 1920x1080 & save 1,7 megapixels of load in every frame)


I can tell you from experience that 1920x1080 looks 'soft' on the Catleap. I don't want to say pixelated, but you can tell immediately that it is not the native resolution.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I can tell you from experience that 1920x1080 looks 'soft' on the Catleap. I don't want to say pixelated, but you can tell immediately that it is not the native resolution.


Hmm... I don't know what will be on the new screens with 3840x2160 res







Probably textures will be ready for this & games become "bigger"


----------



## Gloomy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I can tell you from experience that 1920x1080 looks 'soft' on the Catleap. I don't want to say pixelated, but you can tell immediately that it is not the native resolution.


Use 1280x720 instead. To get rid of the soft look you have to step down to a 4:1 native to foreign pixel ratio. Pixels on LCDs have a fixed shape.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomy*
> 
> Use 1280x720 instead. To get rid of the soft look you have to step down to a 4:1 native to foreign pixel ratio. Pixels on LCDs have a fixed shape.


Yeah, but what's the point of getting a monitor with this high of a resolution and lowering it that low?


----------



## Z06sc

trying to figure out some ways to get this silver platsic piece on the back off... without taking the monitor apart.

Might just score the upper and lower silver piece with a utility knife and get it off that way...


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Yeah, but what's the point of getting a monitor with this high of a resolution and lowering it that low?


Well, some of us don't have video cards that can handle a res quite that high at settings we prefer... so it's a tradeoff until we come around







Take me for example, rocking one 6870 right now and will likely Crossfire with another one as the prices drop with the 7xxx series gaining steam, then we'll be cookin'...


----------



## Gloomy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Yeah, but what's the point of getting a monitor with this high of a resolution and lowering it that low?


Well the native resolution shows its worth for general computing use but not everyone has the money or the interest in gaming at this resolution. For people who get this as their main monitor and do a bit of casual gaming on the side, without the hardware requisite for driving three and a half megapixels, 1280x720 is a good compromise that'll avoid the vaseline filter.


----------



## DarkrReign2049

I have had my monitor since Wed. night. Yesterday I took the monitor to work to show my coworker so he could make a decision on buying one. I took it back home at lunch and it came on but I could not get a picture. I changed settings and I could see the monitor kind of flicker like it made the change but nothing I did would give me a any video. So I took it apart and pushed in on the all the connections. Before I buttoned it back up I plugged it in to see if it was working yet. SUCCESS. I had video. Something must have come loose on the ride back home, but it was fine all the way from Korea.


----------



## Demented

Man, I just got home and I had a 'Sorry we missed you" from the Post Office. It's my stand I ordered. While I wouldn't have been able to set it up today, I would have at least been able to check it out and see how well it's going to work.

Now I have to wait until Monday to pick it up.









EDIT: 4444th post!

* No biggie, but I like when it's all the same number.


----------



## JKClubs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Who did you order from?


I ordered from green-sum back on the 8th. Delivery took a little over a week.


----------



## Demented

So I'm looking at Toasty's program, but don't know what I need to change to try and achieve a higher refresh rate. The info on the HardForum post isn't that helpful, at least to me, since those resolutions are 1920x1080.

So, anyone have a few pointers?


----------



## nightanole

For the people not liking 1080p blurry, on the amd side (switching to nvidia shortly) doesnt the video card setting have an option to use video card scaling or monitior internal scaling? Under ati is image scaling and you select use gpu scaling. Then your game will be rendered at 1080p, but scaled in the card to 1440 and sent to the monitor.


----------



## rayjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gloomy*
> 
> Nice keyboard. What's that TV you got on the wall?


47" LG.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> P.S: *rayjay*, looks very nice! But Filco mechanical keyboard is the killer of any setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Especially when it has loud clicking Cherry MX Blue keys (don't know which comes in your model - Blue\Brown\Black)


Cherry blue switches. It's fun to type on but oh so loud, and blank keys.


----------



## digita1 ecstasy

I've been following the trend since the original thread was only a few pages long, finally buckled and pulled the trigger on my CATLEAP Q270. Ordered from green-sum. Crossing my fingers that the panel I get has no back-light bleeding issues.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Got a response from one of the Chinese supply houses that provide parts for the OC models (well all the LG models). I have sent her, Anita!, my specific count requests and reiterated all three pieces I am looking for. I will keep you posted once she gets back to me with the cost. I am sourcing the DVI PCB, the panel PCB, and the cables.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Got a response from one of the Chinese supply houses that provide parts for the OC models (well all the LG models). I have sent her, Anita!, my specific count requests and reiterated all three pieces I am looking for. I will keep you posted once she gets back to me with the cost. I am sourcing the DVI PCB, the panel PCB, and the cables.


Good work. I think it's possible that we could locate a Displayport video board(instead of DVI) to interface with the 120hz timing board. Then all us could use 100hz+ on our video cards.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Good work. I think it's possible that we could locate a Displayport video board(instead of DVI) to interface with the 120hz timing board. Then all us could use 100hz+ on our video cards.


I'm not technically advanced with this stuff so I have no idea! All I am doing is trying to get OC parts for the non-OC monitor (again, Monday will be the big day to see if a direct swap works). If there are other parts you guys have in mind - shoot me part numbers and I will ask the cost from the one supplier that has bothered to respond.


----------



## Sorcerak

Brand new member who came looking for which 2560 display to buy only between DELL and HP .. only to end up with that Korean thing!









So I just ordered the Glass and Speakers model from greensum and checked out the first post for details on what I will need out of the box to make it work. I do need to buy a power cable and a dual DVI cable if I understood properly?

Thanks! Can't wait to receive this beauty.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcerak*
> 
> Brand new member who came looking for which 2560 display to buy only between DELL and HP .. only to end up with that Korean thing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I just ordered the Glass and Speakers model from greensum and checked out the first post for details on what I will need out of the box to make it work. I do need to buy a power cable and a dual DVI cable if I understood properly?
> Thanks! Can't wait to receive this beauty.


It comes with a dual link dvi cable. And you will need a power cable. However green sum usually ships the displays with a us power adapter for the korean plug.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I've mentioned multiple times that mine is the one without speakers, and I already confirmed it can do higher refresh rates.
> I posted how to get 85 Hz with ATI/AMD cards with my program:


So I used these settings. Do I need to change any other settings in windows? Im not getting any screen corruption or black screens..


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> So I used these settings. Do I need to change any other settings in windows? Im not getting any screen corruption or black screens..


Reset windows and the refresh rate will be selectable in screen resolution -- advanced -- monitor in windows.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Reset windows and the refresh rate will be selectable in screen resolution -- advanced -- monitor in windows.


Thank you trying now.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Got a response from one of the Chinese supply houses that provide parts for the OC models (well all the LG models). I have sent her, Anita!, my specific count requests and reiterated all three pieces I am looking for. I will keep you posted once she gets back to me with the cost. I am sourcing the DVI PCB, the panel PCB, and the cables.


Are you looking to source a batch of components and resell them as a kit? A lot of these suppliers won't do small batches, so we may need to do a group buy; perhaps we should set up a poll or something to gauge how many people are looking to source the OC pcbs for their eDP variants.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Ok so it looks like I dont have an overclocking monitor. Can anyone tell me how to get default settings back on Cru? Im still getting a black screen on my catleap when I changed the hz back to 60. Any help would be much appreciated!

Edit: Nevermind.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Are you looking to source a batch of components and resell them as a kit? A lot of these suppliers won't do small batches, so we may need to do a group buy; perhaps we should set up a poll or something to gauge how many people are looking to source the OC pcbs for their eDP variants.


Yes, I am looking to provide the whole kit. I will start a quickie poll on the subject.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Nevermind got it working.


----------



## Sorcerak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> It comes with a dual link dvi cable. And you will need a power cable. However green sum usually ships the displays with a us power adapter for the korean plug.


Thank you for the information.

Crossing fingers for a perfect unit..


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> I'd say 1.2gb of VRAM is pushing it to play at 2560x1440 with any AA or high graphic settings, best guess would be to play BF3 on this display you would need to have medium to high mixed settings, turn MSAA off and only use FXAA with AO no more than SSAO (probably off) or your going to hit your vram limit constantly.
> Hope this helps


Thanks. Yeah, asking for a friend. It's Ultra or bust.. same with me.


----------



## siberx

Just got around to opening up my Catleap and I took pictures of the internals; It's a 2C and looks basically par for the course inside:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














And, as expected, it doesn't overclock.


----------



## csm725

Quick question for you guys.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/110834882557?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce4617fd
Would this be the monitor I'd purchase? Not sure if this is with or without glass, and do I want it to be with or without glass?
Does it come with a dual link DVI?
Are the colors good out of the box?
Reps aplenty to those who help


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jagz*
> 
> Thanks. Yeah, asking for a friend. It's Ultra or bust.. same with me.


I was using over 2gb last night playing BF3. If that helps at all.

@CSM725
That monitor you linked is the version without glass. Its up to you if you want glass or not, but I can tell you with glass it is very reflective. I have the tempered glass version and if I was ordering again I would go for the display without glass. It comes with a dual link dvi cable. Colors out of the box are good, they seem a bit greenish however.


----------



## csm725

Without glass is still without AG right?
Also can you explain what the "glass" is and what it means performance wise?


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Quick question for you guys.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/110834882557?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce4617fd
> Would this be the monitor I'd purchase? Not sure if this is with or without glass, and do I want it to be with or without glass?
> Does it come with a dual link DVI?
> Are the colors good out of the box?
> Reps aplenty to those who help


That specific link does not have tempered glass. If you see here, he has several different models:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/green-sum/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
Many that have ordered with the tempered glass have noticed dust particles beneath the screen. Just for that reason alone, I would not recommend it.

The first post in this thread has the color setup adjustments:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/0_50#
It appears that some people have been ok with the out of box colors.

And yes it is dual-link DVI.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Without glass is still without AG right?
> Also can you explain what the "glass" is and what it means performance wise?


From what we gather, these monitors are used in Korean internet cafes, so the tempered glass is to protect them from the gamers


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Poll is up. If you are interested in purchasing the PCBs and cabling to OC your monitor - please select ALL price points you would spend to do so.

This way it gives me an idea where I need to try and haggle volume pricing at with the supplier (or even if I can get all the parts in at the desired price points.)

Thanks!


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Poll is up. If you are interested in purchasing the PCBs and cabling to OC your monitor - please select ALL price points you would spend to do so.
> 
> This way it gives me an idea where I need to try and haggle volume pricing at with the supplier (or even if I can get all the parts in at the desired price points.)
> 
> Thanks!


Just submitted my votes; a note though that I would actually be willing to pay *more* than $100 for the boards+cables; as high as probably $150 or so.


----------



## akg102

If it works with a Crossover, I'd be down to pay as well.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Just submitted my votes; a note though that I would actually be willing to pay *more* than $100 for the boards+cables; as high as probably $150 or so.


Good to know. Similar boards look like they run from $20-$35 for the panel PCB so I am guessing up to $40 for the main panel PCB with the DVI PCB to be in the $20s. Of course, this is just a guesstimate based on what we are seeing online. BTW your eyeball is disturbing!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akg102*
> 
> If it works with a Crossover, I'd be down to pay as well.


We need someone with a Crossover to do a complete tear down and post pics of all components (if this has happened already, sorry I missed it!) similar to what we have done here.


----------



## kazenagi

If these pcbs would work in Crossovers and Shimians I'd be more than willing to open them up when they get here and take a few pics of the internals if I have time.


----------



## SkyPC

Has anyone used the Zero-defect option. I might be using it since I think this monitor will last me some while, and to pay for a 120$ shipping back for repair in case of dead pixels or in case of it being broke I am not wiling to.


----------



## illli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akg102*
> 
> If it works with a Crossover, I'd be down to pay as well.


same here


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> If these pcbs would work in Crossovers and Shimians I'd be more than willing to open them up when they get here and take a few pics of the internals if I have time.


I haven't seen a detailed tear down on those models yet. We just need to compare the current PCBs being used and the panel make/model. Getting the same shots as I added to the first post under "Pictures of OC Monitor Internals" would be most helpful.


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z06sc*
> 
> trying to figure out some ways to get this silver platsic piece on the back off... without taking the monitor apart.
> Might just score the upper and lower silver piece with a utility knife and get it off that way...


mine was broken off at the screws when it got here, so those points are probably pretty weak if you don't mind doing it permanently. Keep in mind that the nexk of the stand can only be removed by pulling the display apart, however I find it does not cause any issues leaving it on.


----------



## Zasz

Ordered from Green-Sum March 9th, received it on the 16th. I believe I waited a bit longer than most, but WELL worth it. Monitor came in perfect condition with zero dead pixels.

However I have a question, im trying to OC the monitor with my Nvidia GTX260. Is it as simple as setting a custom resolution and hit automatic timing? When doing this I cant go past 60hz (I click on "test" with 61hz and it says Failed) I'm running Windows 8, i'll try Windows 7 soon


----------



## SkyPC

Where are you located? US?

I live in Estonia, so I'd like to get the estimate time the monitor will get to me.


----------



## erocker

Okay, So I have the Q270 SE and it's a "C" version so probably not OCable. Using the OC program what should I have my Hz and other settings set to that these can handle?


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Poll is up. If you are interested in purchasing the PCBs and cabling to OC your monitor - please select ALL price points you would spend to do so.
> 
> This way it gives me an idea where I need to try and haggle volume pricing at with the supplier (or even if I can get all the parts in at the desired price points.)
> 
> Thanks!


So if it works, we can just order worldwide "OC tansforming package"?
If yes, you will be the legend







Yeap, i remember that time, when *Scribby* found a solution for all of us. From that moment the world learned about very first 100 hz IPS panels. That was a first step of revolution...







OMG sometimes i'm so getting crazy...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> 47" LG.
> Cherry blue switches. It's fun to type on but oh so loud, and blank keys.


Try the Steelseries 6Gv2 or 7G and Razer Black Widow Stealth. First has a Cherry MX Black keys, very gentle and easy to type. Black Widow Stealth has a Brown keys, it's something in the middle from all Cherry MX. Not so loud and types more like classic. Steelseries has a problem with paint, white keys are gradually fades.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zasz*
> 
> Ordered from Green-Sum March 9th, received it on the 16th. I believe I waited a bit longer than most, but WELL worth it. Monitor came in perfect condition with zero dead pixels.
> However I have a question, im trying to OC the monitor with my Nvidia GTX260. Is it as simple as setting a custom resolution and hit automatic timing? When doing this I cant go past 60hz (I click on "test" with 61hz and it says Failed) I'm running Windows 8, i'll try Windows 7 soon


*Zasz* Another operating system will NOT help you. With nVidia cards monitor OC is very simple - connect & set the resolution + refresh rate. The rr which is can see on the OS is the limit for your monitor.


----------



## G4Gunner

I opened up my montior today and took this pic.



http://imgur.com/qRhoq


Its saying my panel is LM270WQ1-SDB1. and "For evaluation use only. No guarantee for service after evaluation."

Mine is a Catleap 2C2


----------



## bQvle

All thous 50$ votes, remember its shipped. internatinal shipping is expencive, so at 50$ there wont be much room left for the actual parts.


----------



## Somenamehere

Opened up my monitor and mounted it to the wall. Looked exactly like all the other C models so I assume no one wants to see that.

*Side note:* The thing looks amazing on the wall, although a little lonely. If we can OC these things I see no reason not to pick up two more.


----------



## Master Freez

It doesn't make any sense: refresh rate overclock not giving any more workspace


----------



## Master Freez

Just a some collage or concept. Done in haste.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> It doesn't make any sense: refresh rate overclock not giving any more workspace


Different priorities; more workspace is fantastic, but so is higher framerate (for gaming, anyways)


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Different priorities; more workspace is fantastic, but so is higher framerate (for gaming, anyways)


yep









I am mostly interested in gaming. I know my two 470's wont run 3 of these, but with graphics cards like the 7970 where some have 6gb I see a future in triple monitors.


----------



## Master Freez

I interested in gaming to! But for example i made "eyefinity\surround" setup concept








http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/890#post_16738343

Hmm, 7680x1440, 11 mp in every frame


----------



## SJetski71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Poll is up. If you are interested in purchasing the PCBs and cabling to OC your monitor - please select ALL price points you would spend to do so.
> 
> This way it gives me an idea where I need to try and haggle volume pricing at with the supplier (or even if I can get all the parts in at the desired price points.)
> 
> Thanks!


Scribby I am definitely in at around $120 or less, you can jot me down on any list, and will pay via any method decided upon.

i may end up owning the PCB's before the monitor itself







, but this would be just the push i needed, 85-100hz, and in the right time frame for my personal finances.

A big thank you to Scribby (repped), and everyone else involved for all of the work and research you're putting in.


----------



## CTM Audi

http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Standing-Supports/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=pd_sbs_op_1

That looks like it would work great with this for the price.

Ugh, just got a $1k refund check from over payment on my last car. Should pay off some credit cards, but two more of these would be awsome. Grrr....


----------



## Somenamehere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Standing-Supports/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=pd_sbs_op_1
> That looks like it would work great with this for the price.
> Ugh, just got a $1k refund check from over payment on my last car. Should pay off some credit cards, but two more of these would be awsome. Grrr....


You only live once go for the tech gear !


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Standing-Supports/dp/B006JG9RQ2/ref=pd_sbs_op_1
> That looks like it would work great with this for the price.
> Ugh, just got a $1k refund check from over payment on my last car. Should pay off some credit cards, but two more of these would be awsome. Grrr....


There is no way to turn side monitors with that stand. And i know that stand on the photo is different, but it has the same monitor mounting system. Another example? Ergotron Triple Monitor Stand - same problem. Link to review 






Another triple monitor stand. Better, more options, up to 27", but more expensive http://www.amazon.com/Ergotech-Triple-Stand-Telescopic-100-D16-B03-TW/dp/B007BD0MPM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1332041866&sr=1-3


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> There is no way to turn side monitors with that stand. And i know that stand on the photo is different, but it has the same monitor mounting system. Another example? Ergotron Triple Monitor Stand - same problem.


What do you mean?
Quote:


> LCD monitors can be tilted, swiveled, and rotated
> Features 360° (Clockwise/Counter Clockwise) rotating mounting heads to accomodate landscape and portrait modes
> Mounting heads tilt (Up/Down) 180°, swivel (In/Out) 180°


Quote:


> each monitor rotates, tilts and angles independently. The center monitor does not slide but the left and right can slide on the arm.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> What do you mean?
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> LCD monitors can be tilted, swiveled, and rotated
> Features 360° (Clockwise/Counter Clockwise) rotating mounting heads to accomodate landscape and portrait modes
> Mounting heads tilt (Up/Down) 180°, swivel (In/Out) 180°
> 
> 
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> each monitor rotates, tilts and angles independently. The center monitor does not slide but the left and right can slide on the arm.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

But they aren't articulated to 'fold in' for a tighter, more surrounding angle. I think that's what he's talking about.


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> But they aren't articulated to 'fold in' for a tighter, more surrounding angle. I think that's what he's talking about.


Having them folded in is one of the worse things you can do for surround view. They should be as straight with each other as possible. The effect gets worse the more closed in the are.

Even so, it does do that. Says they swivel left and right up to 180*.

Im thinking of getting it just so I can get a ~23in IPS screen for portrait for web pages, and put my other 23in up off the desk more. I have a GT-545 I am going to use for physx, so I could run one screen off it, and the other two off my 570HD.


----------



## csm725

So from what I understand, this monitor can not be tweaked without having gradient banding on nVidia cards?


----------



## tcboy88

i went to a pc mall in busan,korea. (not seoul yongsan)
I almost bought the q270 led
But after checking 3 monitors, all of them have defects (1st 1 has a dust inside panel, 2nd 1 has a minor scratch on screen, 3rd 1 has a dead pixel)

finally i didnt get to buy the monitor
but my question is, why most of the stocks u guys received in USA is perfect, while in korea itself i cant find a flawless monitor =.=


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> i went to a pc mall in busan,korea. (not seoul yongsan)
> I almost bought the q270 led
> But after checking 3 monitors, all of them have defects (1st 1 has a dust inside panel, 2nd 1 has a minor scratch on screen, 3rd 1 has a dead pixel)
> finally i didnt get to buy the monitor
> but my question is, why most of the stocks u guys received in USA is perfect, while in korea itself i cant find a flawless monitor =.=


Korea loves USA


----------



## stblazer

I ordered the baseline SE model w/o speakers, hdmi, or tempered glass from greensum on March 8, and received the monitor on March 16. It was in a large box with plenty of bubble padding and a small 2 prong power adapter. The panel is the 2C model and it won't overclock past 66Hz. There is some backlight bleeding near the top right hand corner of the monitor, but the effect was noticeably lessened by adjusting the bezel in a way that doesn't apply too much pressure on that spot. Otherwise, it's in near perfect condition with no dead or stuck pixels. I'm running the monitor on a Radeon HD3850, and everything works flawlessly. I'd give it a rating of 9/10 in picture quality and a 10/10 in value.


----------



## Z06sc

Some pictures of the Catleap









Took it apart, it is indeed LG Display.









In front of my 52" Samsung ToC









Current setup. Nothing fancy. 24" Samsung T240 Monitor to the left, displays 1920x1200 res.









Bell Approves of this Monitor.


----------



## SkyPC

Question to green-sum:

Hello

Can you please tell me about "Perfect Pixel" option. Will the monitor be checked for dust behind the screen as well as for dead pixels?

And I hope there is no problems sending this monitor to Estonia.

Thank you.

Regards.

Answer:

1. In factory, the manufacturer test your monitor about dead pixels and other defects before it packaged.

2. We send Estonia with EMS.

Thanks

Regarding this product : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140723272177&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Question to green-sum:
> Hello
> Can you please tell me about "Perfect Pixel" option. Will the monitor be checked for dust behind the screen as well as for dead pixels?
> And I hope there is no problems sending this monitor to Estonia.
> Thank you.
> Regards.
> Answer:
> 1. In factory, the manufacturer test your monitor about dead pixels and other defects before it packaged.
> 2. We send Estonia with EMS.
> Thanks
> Regarding this product : http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=140723272177&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


I would assume that the manufacturer is still going to go by their policy of 5 pixels or less is not defective, unless those, or at least one pixel, is in the center of the monitor. I know it's not smart to assume sometimes, but I'd be willing to bet it's an extra fee for nothing. You think these sellers can just call up the manufacturer and say, "Hey, open one of those up and test it.". It's probably their way of wording an already normal process at the manufacturer.


----------



## SkyPC

Ye, I understand what you mean. It feels fishy.

But personaly, I'd be willing to pay extra for the peace of mind. Cause if I don't pay the extra and get dozen of dead pixels, I will beat my self to the mud for that.


----------



## Crack_Fox

Ordered one on the 12th from green-sum, he didn't post it till the 15th as he was out of stock (ebay showed in stock). According to tracking it is still in the source country as of this post. Will update.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Ye, I understand what you mean. It feels fishy.
> But personaly, I'd be willing to pay extra for the peace of mind. Cause if I don't pay the extra and get dozen of dead pixels, I will beat my self to the mud for that.


But what if you pay the money, and still get dead pixels?


----------



## SkyPC

Then I will be scared for life towards buying similar products.


----------



## csm725

What do you guys have to say about dcsamsungmall's shipping?


----------



## PearlJammzz

Does everyone's monitor have the sticker that says they are for evaluation use only? Even the original ones?


----------



## SkyPC

I heard he is not as good with wrapping the monitor in bubble rap. Sometimes comes just a plain box.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Does everyone's monitor have the sticker that says they are for evaluation use only? Even the original ones?


I'll find out on mine on Tuesday. Can't take it apart until then.


----------



## SkyPC

Which one you ordered Demented? Could you link?

Also, could some1 explain to me why people are hating the glass over the monitor, besides some dust stuck behind it occasionally.

I see the glass over many Apple monitors and that looks very good and classy. Is the reflection effect so bad if I am siting in a room with no windows?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Which one you ordered Demented? Could you link?
> Also, could some1 explain to me why people are hating the glass over the monitor, besides some dust stuck behind it occasionally.
> I see the glass over many Apple monitors and that looks very good and classy. Is the reflection effect so bad if I am siting in a room with no windows?


I bought mine from Dream-Seller. This one.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Does everyone's monitor have the sticker that says they are for evaluation use only? Even the original ones?


No - most don't, but we've seen pictures of two recently that do.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> All thous 50$ votes, remember its shipped. internatinal shipping is expencive, so at 50$ there wont be much room left for the actual parts.


I agree, I seriously doubt we can get all three parts shipped from China to me then back out to you guys for under $50. The more I look at the price of similar parts this just won't be possible unless we get an amazing deal on a decent sized order.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Does everyone's monitor have the sticker that says they are for evaluation use only? Even the original ones?


Nope, that is a little weird. Wonder if the manufacturers are running low on stock? I would contact the seller attaching a picture and ask them to clarify what is going on.


----------



## csm725

Who do you guys recommend buying from?
Green-sum?


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> What do you guys have to say about dcsamsungmall's shipping?


Mine came plenty protected. He ships lightning fast.. Ordered and recieved my monitor in less than three days! No dead pixels and the monitor is beautiful.


----------



## csm725

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> Mine came plenty protected. He ships lightning fast.. Ordered and recieved my monitor in less than three days! No dead pixels and the monitor is beautiful.


Hmmm, I don't want to take a risk...








Did anyone else buy from dcsamsungmall?


----------



## erocker

What risk?


----------



## csm725

Most of the damages to the monitors seem to be done by rough handled shippers...


----------



## KuuFA

I bought from green sum you can see how he packs things in my post....

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16704944

Although he is being swamped with orders it took him 3 days to ship my monitor out (didn't really care). But i got a perfect monitor no defects.


----------



## csm725

Hmmmm. Not sure who to buy from!


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Hmmmm. Not sure who to buy from!


They are all the same, just go with whoever is cheapest. Red-cap did have a best offer on his, he still might. Some have gotten as low as $360.


----------



## csm725

Green and samsung are selling for $370. It "worries" me that green has a model that is guaranteed pixel perfect, since maybe that increases the chance of me getting one that has some bad pixels if I don't buy a "Pixel Perfect" model.
(Excuse my terribad sentence structure. I am reaaaallllyyy tired.)


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Green and samsung are selling for $370. It "worries" me that green has a model that is guaranteed pixel perfect, since maybe that increases the chance of me getting one that has some bad pixels if I don't buy a "Pixel Perfect" model.
> (Excuse my terribad sentence structure. I am reaaaallllyyy tired.)


From what I understand the pixel perfect option is where the manufacturer checks the panels by machine and only detect white dots, not dead pixels. Then drop ships them to the seller (green, dcsamsungmall, etc). Where as if you were just to buy it from the seller's they would just send you a monitor they have in stock.


----------



## kazenagi

Perfect pixel models might just be the A+ gradings from the manufacturers while the non perfect pixel ones and the ones the other sellers have are A- models so they'll all have the same chance of having dead/stuck pixels. There won't be a greater chance than the other sellers unless he purposely opens up every monitor to filter out the bad ones but then he can't sell them as new.

edit-- ninja'd


----------



## csm725

So... should I get the Catleap or the apparently sturdier Crossover?


----------



## larrydavid

I have a theory that the timing controller on the 10-bit LG panels is the one that supports 100hz and that for whatever reason, they were on the Catleap 2Bs.

The NEC PA271W is a 10-bit IPS monitor and uses the same t-con as the Catleap 2B, as seen here http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSync-PA271W-T-CON-BOARD-6870C-0300B-/370548645486?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> I have a theory that the timing controller on the 10-bit LG panels is the one that supports 100hz and that for whatever reason, they were on the Catleap 2Bs.
> The NEC PA271W is a 10-bit IPS monitor and uses the same t-con as the Catleap 2B, as seen here http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEC-MultiSync-PA271W-T-CON-BOARD-6870C-0300B-/370548645486?


I don't think it's a question of 10-bit vs 8-bit; the Parade T-con on the non-OC panels is specced to support up to 30-bit color anyways. The difference is the non-C Parade-based one uses eDP for input, and the OC-capable one is LVDS.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I don't think it's a question of 10-bit vs 8-bit; the Parade T-con on the non-OC panels is specced to support up to 30-bit color anyways. The difference is the non-C Parade-based one uses eDP for input, and the OC-capable one is LVDS.


The timing controller on the overclockable Catleaps had a model of LM270WQ1-SLA1, which is listed as a 10-bit panel. I would imagine the 10-bit panels need more bandwidth to carry the signal, thus are equipped with a higher bandwidth interface. A byproduct of this is allows them to support higher refresh rates.


----------



## stblazer

Hmm... I wonder if my monitor is the infamous "evaluation" version... It very well could be, but I'm not going to open up my monitor until I get the mount.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> I bought from green sum you can see how he packs things in my post....
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/550#post_16704944
> Although he is being swamped with orders it took him 3 days to ship my monitor out (didn't really care). But i got a perfect monitor no defects.


Greensum is also relocating their warehouse on Monday. Expect an extra 1-2 day delay before shipping.


----------



## erocker

So anyone have a link to a decent desktop single monitor stand that isn't too expensive for my Q270? I can deal with this wobbliness only so much!


----------



## utnorris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> What do you guys have to say about dcsamsungmall's shipping?


Friggin awesome!! I got mine in two days and the box was wrapped in about 4 inch thick bubble wrap. There was no damage to the box inside or out, however my silver bracket on the back was broken, probably happened during packing at the factory since there was literally no damage to the box itself. I am in Dallas, TX, so delivery to your country could take longer, but it does come via Fedex if that helps.


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Friggin awesome!! I got mine in two days and the box was wrapped in about 4 inch thick bubble wrap. There was no damage to the box inside or out, however my silver bracket on the back was broken, probably happened during packing at the factory since there was literally no damage to the box itself. I am in Dallas, TX, so delivery to your country could take longer, but it does come via Fedex if that helps.


Yes. I recieve my monitor faster than if I were buying from someone within the states. Unbelieveably fast!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> So anyone have a link to a decent desktop single monitor stand that isn't too expensive for my Q270? I can deal with this wobbliness only so much!


I just picked this up, it should do the trick: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994039

I need to post up a pic to be in the club I guess... Here it is:










This monitor does wonders in Star Trek Online


----------



## whybother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Perfect pixel models might just be the A+ gradings from the manufacturers while the non perfect pixel ones and the ones the other sellers have are A- models so they'll all have the same chance of having dead/stuck pixels. There won't be a greater chance than the other sellers unless he purposely opens up every monitor to filter out the bad ones but then he can't sell them as new.
> edit-- ninja'd


Unlikely. They are all A- rejects imo. The Perfect Pixel policy still allows for dark dead pixels. They are only testing for bright stuck pixels. However, dark dead pixels are preferable to bright ones. You'll barely notice them on such a display.


----------



## erocker

@ Scribby...

I'm having a hard time understanding where you screwed in your mount:










With the pictures of the monitor taken apart, I don't see the screw holes?


----------



## jbuschdev

You pull the gray arch off the back? They're under there.


----------



## erocker

Yeah, I'm dumb. I just had to reach around there and there they are!. Kind of a shame you have to disassemble everything just to put a VESA mount on.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> Yeah, I'm dumb. I just had to reach around there and there they are!. Kind of a shame you have to disassemble everything just to put a VESA mount on.


If the worst disadvantage is having to disassemble the unit to attach a VESA mount I'll take it to get this panel at less than half price of normal


----------



## erocker

I said it's just a shame. Believe me, once that stand comes in I'll be ripping the thing apart in no time.







I just had surgery so the drugs are making me lazy and complacent. I never had a futuristic robot arm monitor stand before! Heh.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> I said it's just a shame. Believe me, once that stand comes in I'll be ripping the thing apart in no time.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just had surgery so the drugs are making me lazy and complacent. I never had a futuristic robot arm monitor stand before! Heh.


I picked this up for mine:

3M Monitor Stand

I have to pick it up at my Post Office tomorrow. I'll be dismantling my Catleap and attaching it then.


----------



## SkyPC

Took the plunge and got the Catleap from Green-sum with perfect Pixel for 431$

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140723272177?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c3c2b9f1#ht_33905wt_1163

I know it's 60 bucks more, but regardless how that option might seem I'm willing to try it for the peace of mind.

Will keep you guys informed.


----------



## erocker

Sweet! Post a couple pics if you could.







Looks like I spent and extra sixty bucks because mine looked cool. Oh well, it should last beyond this monitor.


----------



## Z06sc

Amazing. He's ridiculously fast. I got my monitor within 3 days from dcsamsungmall.


----------



## Master Freez

I think that he is working not alone. Plus in the answer he said that they are "other company with manufacture"


----------



## sh1v

I am glad more and more people are buying these monitors. Hopefully within couple of years, domestic mfc will bring their price down on these 27" LCDs.


----------



## kazenagi

A couple hundred monitors from ebay, maybe less won't really affect a market of millions of monitors imo.


----------



## sh1v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> A couple hundred monitors from ebay, maybe less won't really affect a market of millions of monitors imo.


oh no that is not what i meant. I mean as time goes by i am hoping these 27" LCD become mainstream. Kinda like when LCDs(17-19") when first came out, they were expensive and now you can find them relatively cheap


----------



## cruisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Z06sc*
> 
> Amazing. He's ridiculously fast. I got my monitor within 3 days from dcsamsungmall.


Ya how the heck is he doing this? Ordered it today and says estimated delivery mar 22nd to Canada


----------



## cruisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruisx*
> 
> Ya how the heck is he doing this? Ordered it today and says estimated delivery mar 22nd to Canada


That is less time than it takes me to buy something from newegg....
oops double post.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> A couple hundred monitors from ebay, maybe less won't really affect a market of millions of monitors imo.


Last I counted, it was at least 400 Catleap Q270's sold on ebay, and that's just through postings that are still up. Doesn't account for the other variants (Crossover, Shimian) either, so it's probably 500-1000 so far...


----------



## kazenagi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sh1v*
> 
> oh no that is not what i meant. I mean as time goes by i am hoping these 27" LCD become mainstream. Kinda like when LCDs(17-19") when first came out, they were expensive and now you can find them relatively cheap


Ah, well bigger's always better








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Last I counted, it was at least 400 Catleap Q270's sold on ebay, and that's just through postings that are still up. Doesn't account for the other variants (Crossover, Shimian) either, so it's probably 500-1000 so far...


Catleaps only sold that much because they were confirmed 100hz for a bit, Shimians, Crossovers and others don't have anywhere near that much demand. 1000 is a sniffle compared to a multi million sales in monitors by Samsung alone, not including other brands. It's still too early to call things but nothing'll change unless these monitors suddenly start appearing in big box electronic stores.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sh1v*
> 
> I am glad more and more people are buying these monitors. Hopefully within couple of years, domestic mfc will bring their price down on these 27" LCDs.


Actually, they already have. HP ZR2740W. $729. 27". IPS. LED Backlit. 2560x1440. Display Port + Dual Link DVI with HDCP. 1000:1 static contrast, 380 cd/m2 brightness. 4 port USB hub on there too. Likely using the same LG panel. But of course, 60hz controller. And just like ours, it has no OSD.

http://h10010.www1.hp.com/wwpc/us/en/sm/WF06a/382087-382087-64283-72270-3884471-5163694.html?dnr=1


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Actually, they already have. HP ZR2740W. $729. 27". IPS. LED Backlit. 2560x1440. Display Port + Dual Link DVI with HDCP. 1000:1 static contrast, 380 cd/m2 brightness. 4 port USB hub on there too. Likely using the same LG panel. But of course, 60hz controller. And just like ours, it has no OSD.


Thats not what I would consider a good price. You can get a Dell U2412M 16:10 1920x1200 IPS LED for under $300. A few extra inches and more pixels isnt worth an extra 150% IMO.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

I am interested in getting one, but can someone show me what it is like when a 1080p video is played on that screen? Like Blu-ray or sth


----------



## jbuschdev

2,304,000 vs 3,686,400 is 1.6x as many pixels.

Some would argue that it is worth it. I just can't use a 1080/1200p monitor anymore.

You can get the HP for even less if you search around, that's $730 at HP's website which is almost always going to be the most expensive.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTM Audi*
> 
> Thats not what I would consider a good price. You can get a Dell U2412M 16:10 1920x1200 IPS LED for under $300. A few extra inches and more pixels isnt worth an extra 150% IMO.


I'm going to be honest with you. I really don't like you. You're always being a jerk. Always have to have a different opinion on every single matter. Well here you go mr. smart guy. You think $729 isn't "lower" compared to the standard $1100 market prices? Let's see...current monitors we are buying with Zero-dead pixel (which is still a grade A-) with multi-input is $489:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-MULTI-27-LED-2560X1440-S-IPS-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/120878749173?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c24ef55f5

Now let's see. $489 --> $729. $240 Price different. Advantages:

1) Don't have to deal with risk of buying from overseas
2) Doesn't cost you $100 and weeks to ship it back to exchange it should there be a problem with it
3) Actual Grade A+ Monitor with literally 0 messed up pixels and on the spot replacement in such a case
4) A proper stand that supports the monitor + Cable Management
5) Proper VESA support without fiddling around
6) 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub (cable included)
7) Proper American power plug standard
8) Includes displayport cable
9) Having bought from a reputable brand, with 3 years actual local Warranty through HP.
10) $729 is the MSRP. You can buy it even cheaper...newegg.com has it for $679. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242&Tpk=ZR2740w) Making the price difference between the monitors just $190.

If you expect a big name company like HP to make this product available, with all the things I mentioned above, with less than a $190 price markup compared to what we're paying...then you're absolutely bonkers. This was a phenomenal deal when it was 100hz monitors. And scribby's hoping to source the parts to make it 100hz again. But as of right now, for a $190 price difference and what you get by buying from Dell....honestly, you're an imbecile for expecting the price to be any lower at this early stage in the introduction of these panels into the market.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Wowzers...it's even cheaper on the Canadian newegg site:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242CVF&Tpk=ZR2740W

Just $629.

And if you bundle, they'll give you this $80 monitor stand for just $5 more:

http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021111


----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I'm going to be honest with you. I really don't like you. You're always being a jerk. Always have to have a different opinion on every single matter. Well here you go mr. smart guy. You think $729 isn't "lower" compared to the standard $1100 market prices? Let's see...current monitors we are buying with Zero-dead pixel (which is still a grade A-) with multi-input is $489:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-MULTI-27-LED-2560X1440-S-IPS-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/120878749173?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c24ef55f5
> Now let's see. $489 --> $729. $240 Price different. Advantages:
> 1) Don't have to deal with risk of buying from overseas
> 2) Doesn't cost you $100 and weeks to ship it back to exchange it should there be a problem with it
> 3) Actual Grade A+ Monitor with literally 0 messed up pixels and on the spot replacement in such a case
> 4) A proper stand that supports the monitor + Cable Management
> 5) Proper VESA support without fiddling around
> 6) 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub (cable included)
> 7) Proper American power plug standard
> 8) Includes displayport cable
> 9) Having bought from a reputable brand, with 3 years actual local Warranty through HP.
> 10) $729 is the MSRP. You can buy it even cheaper...newegg.com has it for $679. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242&Tpk=ZR2740w) Making the price difference between the monitors just $190.
> If you expect a big name company like HP to make this product available, with all the things I mentioned above, with less than a $190 price markup compared to what we're paying...then you're absolutely bonkers. This was a phenomenal deal when it was 100hz monitors. And scribby's hoping to source the parts to make it 100hz again. But as of right now, for a $190 price difference and what you get by buying from Dell....honestly, you're an imbecile for expecting the price to be any lower at this early stage in the introduction of these panels into the market.


Wow is all I have to say. Maybe you cant read what Im saying correctly, but Im a high standing member of many forums under the "Cecil" (name was taken here by someone that isnt even active) and just about every person on every one of the forums would say the oposite. This forum in general is just very off tempo considered to others I guess.
Anyway, I also guess you missed where each time I say *IMO*
*IMO* no montior is worth over $500, period. And IMO I can make that limit wherever I want it, because it is my opinion. Im sure there are many others who agree, other wise they wouldnt be so excited about a sub $400 high res monitor like I am. If it did not exsist we simply would not own a 27in high res monitor becuase in our opinion, one is not worth 150% more of the price, or even 100% more.

You also apeared to clearly miss where I compared the price of a 24in Dell U2412M to that monitor, and not one of these. The Dell can be had for around $280 at times, so if the HP is $680, that is still about 142% more money then the Dell.

So next time you want to call someone a jerk, why dont you actually read what they have said?


----------



## Geglamash




----------



## CTM Audi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> You're very welcome. I had to go over my post many times to remove the expletives before posting it. You always argue apples to oranges. "Oh...the 680 is bad. Buy 2x 480 instead because it costs less even though it means you just wasted that money on a setup that will have to be fully replaced soon rather than just adding another 680 to sli should the need arise, and then I'm going to make up BS like I know a damn thing about memory bus" and "*** AA? Who uses AA. That's the stupidest thing ever. You don't need AA when you play 2560x1440 because it has a wopping 13 higher pixels per inch higher than a 23" 1080p monitor," "Oh, a 27" 2560x1440 display is too expensive. why buy it when you can buy a smaller lower resolution display for less?" It's always asinine comments that don't contribute anything positive and fail to miss the big picture. If there were an option to block an individual users comments on this forum I would gladly add you to it because you you honestly just always say the stupidest things I could ever imagine and you say it with such conviction that it feels like I'd have better luck convincing a suicide bomber to not blow himself up for God than to explain to you why you are so wrong in so many ways.
> Forget it. You're a loser. I'm just going to ignore you from here on out.


Expressing ones opinions is not against any rules, but pure bashing and name calling like you are doing is, so you have been reported. Also, taking things way out of context and clearly not being able to understand things, and using that as an argument to call someone an idiot or "loser" is just hypocritical. If you want to try and convince people to spend WAY more then needed then you are more then welcome to. But bashing someone elses opinion who tries to help people save money (considering the state of the economy, and that most people want bang for buck) is being a "jerk".

And BTW, there is a "block user" option, but it involves reading


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazenagi*
> 
> Catleaps only sold that much because they were confirmed 100hz for a bit, Shimians, Crossovers and others don't have anywhere near that much demand. 1000 is a sniffle compared to a multi million sales in monitors by Samsung alone, not including other brands. It's still too early to call things but nothing'll change unless these monitors suddenly start appearing in big box electronic stores.


You're absolutely right that these are a drop in the bucket compared to the monitor market as a whole, but if you compare it to the number of 27" or greater panels with 2560x1440 or higher resolution I suspect the numbers start to not look so bad - especially considering these units have really only been selling for what, a month or so? It's a niche at the moment (as all >1920 monitors are) - but a smart company would look at it in context and see that perhaps there's some market potential to be filled


----------



## digita1 ecstasy

To get back on topic, will this monitor run on a 9600 GT?


----------



## erocker

If it has a dual link DVI port... Yes. It will run.


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I'm going to be honest with you. I really don't like you. You're always being a jerk. Always have to have a different opinion on every single matter. Well here you go mr. smart guy. You think $729 isn't "lower" compared to the standard $1100 market prices? Let's see...current monitors we are buying with Zero-dead pixel (which is still a grade A-) with multi-input is $489:
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-MULTI-27-LED-2560X1440-S-IPS-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/120878749173?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c24ef55f5
> Now let's see. $489 --> $729. $240 Price different. Advantages:
> 1) Don't have to deal with risk of buying from overseas
> 2) Doesn't cost you $100 and weeks to ship it back to exchange it should there be a problem with it
> 3) Actual Grade A+ Monitor with literally 0 messed up pixels and on the spot replacement in such a case
> 4) A proper stand that supports the monitor + Cable Management
> 5) Proper VESA support without fiddling around
> 6) 4 Port USB 2.0 Hub (cable included)
> 7) Proper American power plug standard
> 8) Includes displayport cable
> 9) Having bought from a reputable brand, with 3 years actual local Warranty through HP.
> 10) $729 is the MSRP. You can buy it even cheaper...newegg.com has it for $679. (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242&Tpk=ZR2740w) Making the price difference between the monitors just $190.
> If you expect a big name company like HP to make this product available, with all the things I mentioned above, with less than a $190 price markup compared to what we're paying...then you're absolutely bonkers. This was a phenomenal deal when it was 100hz monitors. And scribby's hoping to source the parts to make it 100hz again. But as of right now, for a $190 price difference and what you get by buying from Dell....honestly, you're an imbecile for expecting the price to be any lower at this early stage in the introduction of these panels into the market.


Excellent post.

And if the HP had Samsung's AG coating or had no AG like these Korean monitors, I likely would have bought it. But with the horrible heavy AG - no sale, and Korea gets my dollars.

BB


----------



## Demented

Wow guys, c'mon. Let's agree to disagree, and let it be.

Hmm, I'm sort of a poet...


----------



## Adhunt

I imagine it'd run windows on a 9600gt no worries, whether it'd run any games at native res - not so sure..


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> I imagine it'd run windows on a 9600gt no worries, whether it'd run any games at native res - not so sure..


As a rough ballpark, I think the 9600GT's 512MB memory will probably limit you to something around 2007 era games at this kind of resolution...


----------



## digita1 ecstasy

Thank you. But yeah, I wasn't going to bother trying any games before upgrading my gpu.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> As a rough ballpark, I think the 9600GT's 512MB memory will probably limit you to something around 2007 era games at this kind of resolution...


Yes this resolution takes a bit more power, I regularly go over 2gb ram usage.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Yes this resolution takes a bit more power, I regularly go over 2gb ram usage.


Yeah I never realized how much of a hit my card would be taking going from 1080p to this. From fully maxed out everything to the top in ME3 and being at the 62fps cap (didn't know how to remove the cap before!) to hovering around 40fps with just 2x AA on at 1440p. This is on a 6970 card.


----------



## siberx

I've found that with my current GPU (a 4870X2) the performance gets less than stellar with modern titles at full resolution; I tried running Tribes Ascend at 2560x1440 and it was probably in the 30fps range or so (too low for a fast-paced shooter like that). What I've taken to doing is enabling GPU rescaling on the card and setting "Centered timings"; then I run games that can't quite hit acceptable framerates at 1920x1080 instead. This results in a black border around the image, but you don't have to rescale pixels so the image stays sharp. With how large the monitor is, the image is only very slightly smaller than the 22" 1920x1200 I upgraded from, so I'm not really losing much in that respect.

If you found you still couldn't run smoothly at 1080p, you can always drop to 720p and use fullscreen; since the panel is four 720p windows in a square, you'll get perfect (sharp) scaling with 4 screen pixels per game pixel.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> I am interested in getting one, but can someone show me what it is like when a 1080p video is played on that screen? Like Blu-ray or sth


Anyone able to help? Really looking at getting this monitor


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Anyone able to help? Really looking at getting this monitor


I may or may not have watched some 1080p ggw videos on it. Looked brilliant to me.







Best I can think of to show you what it looks like is to maximize a 1080p clip out to the full 2560x1440 on the display, and take a screenshot so you can see how it handles spreading the 1920x1080 pixels across 2560x1440 pivixels.



If there's a better method, please let me know.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Anyone able to help? Really looking at getting this monitor


I can't show you, but I watched some of my Transformers Blu-Ray and it looked awesome!!! Better than on my TV, but it's 42" so it's nicer to watch a movie on.

This would be great for watching movies from what I have seen.


----------



## sloppyjoe123

^Thanks! Sounds good









Really worried that the monitor will stretch the Blu-ray movie, making it more blurry.


----------



## Noteleet

Just got mine up and running. No obvious dead pixels, going to test (test all the things!) after I get back from the gym.


----------



## Adhunt

Just ordered an SE - will post when it arrives!


----------



## SkyPC

I ordered one yestarday from Green-sum, but I am still unclear about the power supply. I live in Estonia, and we got these in our walls: http://www.google.ee/imgres?num=10&hl=et&gbv=2&biw=1680&bih=913&tbm=isch&tbnid=0qAvXyv24f029M:&imgrefurl=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:C_plug.jpg&docid=lc17bS3GwZgD_M&imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/26/C_plug.jpg&w=559&h=280&ei=ajJnT9PeGpPP4QTuzs2ICA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=904&vpy=162&dur=1108&hovh=159&hovw=317&tx=201&ty=108&sig=111211857739137877973&sqi=2&page=1&tbnh=84&tbnw=167&start=0&ndsp=44&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:0.

Could some one clarify if I actually need to buy some adapter or anything, or it will work out of the box and I will be able to plug it in.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I ordered one yestarday from Green-sum, but I am still unclear about the power supply. I live in Estonia, and we got these in our walls: http://www.google.ee/imgres?num=10&hl=et&gbv=2&biw=1680&bih=913&tbm=isch&tbnid=0qAvXyv24f029M:&imgrefurl=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:C_plug.jpg&docid=lc17bS3GwZgD_M&imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/26/C_plug.jpg&w=559&h=280&ei=ajJnT9PeGpPP4QTuzs2ICA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=904&vpy=162&dur=1108&hovh=159&hovw=317&tx=201&ty=108&sig=111211857739137877973&sqi=2&page=1&tbnh=84&tbnw=167&start=0&ndsp=44&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:0.
> Could some one clarify if I actually need to buy some adapter or anything, or it will work out of the box and I will be able to plug it in.


According to photos and reviews, catleap's power supply has a standart Euro jack: 2 contacts & ground. Don't laugh if i said the stupid thing, please))) But according to some sellers, it comes with C plug for Korea... So probably better to wait for the monitor & buy something after if it's not compatible.


----------



## SkyPC

Thanks Freez.
About the buying, well, if my electricity socket wont be compatible with w/e the Catleap will come with I will have to order one from Ebay which will take about 2 weeks.









Better to be sure in advance.

If any Europeans with standard Euro electricity socket could confirm that it works with their jack, would be great.


----------



## Demented

I am still unable to get Toasty's LUT loader to load at startup. If I click the same shortcut on my desktop, the colors change slightly, but it will not do it on boot.

Any suggestions?


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sloppyjoe123*
> 
> Anyone able to help? Really looking at getting this monitor


Yep, it's awesome. I have been testing quite a few blu-ray's on this monitor, and I have to say it's much better than my 1920x1200 HP IPS. The lack of anti glare coating makes the colors stand out, but you really have to control the light in the room more. The higher pixel count on the 27" panel helps the quality as well, even with a 1080p source.


----------



## Falconetti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Thanks Freez.
> About the buying, well, if my electricity socket wont be compatible with w/e the Catleap will come with I will have to order one from Ebay which will take about 2 weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better to be sure in advance.
> If any Europeans with standard Euro electricity socket could confirm that it works with their jack, would be great.


Europe and South Korea share the same C, F plug standard for wall sockets. Voltage is the same too ( 220-240v ). The difference is in the frequency whereas the EU have 50Hz , South Korea have 60Hz. The power supply that is provided with the monitor handles 220-240V / 50-60Hz , so there shouldn't be any problem.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

*IT'S ALIVE!!!!!*

So the swap was a complete success! Here are some pics to show y'all!! Sorry for the large files - just wanted to get some good pics up.

*THE TWO PCBs NEXT TO EACH OTHER - NON-OC TOP, OC BOTTOM*



*FIRST PLUG IN*



*PROOF! I ONLY HAD 97hz IN MY CUSTOM - 100HZ COMES UP AS NOT SUPPORTED.*





I have sent pics to the suppliers I am in contact with so they can check if sourcing these PCBs is possible. Of course, I will let everyone know as soon as I hear something. For those Achieva/Crossover folks still need pics of the internals to see if this swap will work for you. Need back of the monitor (sticker), up close of P/N of top panel PCBs (left and right), Panel PCB, and DVI PCB (cables would help too.) See the first post for the type of pics I would need.

Fingers crossed we can get these PCBs sourced!


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I ordered one yestarday from Green-sum, but I am still unclear about the power supply. I live in Estonia, and we got these in our walls: http://www.google.ee/imgres?num=10&hl=et&gbv=2&biw=1680&bih=913&tbm=isch&tbnid=0qAvXyv24f029M:&imgrefurl=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:C_plug.jpg&docid=lc17bS3GwZgD_M&imgurl=http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/2/26/C_plug.jpg&w=559&h=280&ei=ajJnT9PeGpPP4QTuzs2ICA&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=904&vpy=162&dur=1108&hovh=159&hovw=317&tx=201&ty=108&sig=111211857739137877973&sqi=2&page=1&tbnh=84&tbnw=167&start=0&ndsp=44&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:0.
> Could some one clarify if I actually need to buy some adapter or anything, or it will work out of the box and I will be able to plug it in.


My Catleap came with a standard plug as we use in Europe (properly the same they use in Korea), so I'm 100% sure you will not have a problem with that.


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Fingers crossed we can get these PCBs sourced!


Awesome job!! Thanks for taking the chance for all of us!









Can't wait to hear more about the possible options for exchanging to a faster control board.


----------



## Spongeworthy

**** JUST GOT REAL.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I will keep the internals swapped and let you all know if I run into any issues down the line.


----------



## SkyPC

Thanks DrRetina and Falconetti for clarifying


----------



## DrRetina

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I will keep the internals swapped and let you all know if I run into any issues down the line.


Great. What about that horizontal line on the screen some of you talked about in the beginning of the thread (if i remember correctly)?

My Catleap 2C has no lines whatsoever, so I was thinking if the "line" is controller / refresh rate related?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have zero lines on either screen. That may be GPU related since I don't think nVidias see that? Not sure. But two different panels - same exact look. Running them with a GTX 250 at the moment with no lines, no weird ghosting, everything looks perfect so far.


----------



## atmosfar

Can the 100 Hz OC not be done on AMD cards?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/490#post_16701561

Judging from this post it looks like native res only goes up to 85 Hz ... kind of disappointing, although it would probably look decent at 720P if it could do 100 Hz


----------



## Tea1023

Man this is awesome.

Ive been following the main thread, but unsuccessful in getting an answer so far, can someone here confirm that the input lag is unnoticeable for competitive FPS games? CS:S/TF2/BF3 etc? as in, would these monitors be unsuitable for those games?

thanks!!


----------



## sinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Thanks Freez.
> About the buying, well, if my electricity socket wont be compatible with w/e the Catleap will come with I will have to order one from Ebay which will take about 2 weeks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Better to be sure in advance.
> If any Europeans with standard Euro electricity socket could confirm that it works with their jack, would be great.


Wikipedia says Korea has the same AC outlet standard that most of continental Europe has:
clicky


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Interesting little difference between the two setups I never noticed before. The covers for the panel PCBs are different. Not a big deal, but interesting all the same.

*THIS IS THE COVER FROM MY OC MONITOR COVERING THE NON-OC BOARD. SEE HOW THE CUT OUT MATCHES THE PCB PERFECTLY?*



*HERE IT IS OVER THE OC PCB - AS IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY - NOT A GREAT FIT*



*THIS IS THE COVER FOR A NON-OC BOARD - NO CUT OUT*



*IF YOU LOOK AT THE TWO PCBS YOU CAN SEE THE OC PCB HAS A COVER OVER ONE PIECE WHERE THE NON-OC BOARD DOES NOT. I THINK THE COVERS ARE WRONG FROM THE FACTORY FOR MY MONITORS!*



Again, just an observation that apparently these manufacturers are using a grab bag of parts to put these monitors on the market.


----------



## jbuschdev

You swapped out all 3 pieces correct? DVI Controller / Cable / LCD Controller


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Interesting little difference between the two setups I never noticed before. The covers for the panel PCBs are different. Not a big deal, but interesting all the same.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *THIS IS THE COVER FROM MY OC MONITOR COVERING THE NON-OC BOARD. SEE HOW THE CUT OUT MATCHES THE PCB PERFECTLY?*
> 
> 
> *HERE IT IS OVER THE OC PCB - AS IT CAME FROM THE FACTORY - NOT A GREAT FIT*
> 
> 
> *THIS IS THE COVER FOR A NON-OC BOARD - NO CUT OUT*
> 
> 
> *IF YOU LOOK AT THE TWO PCBS YOU CAN SEE THE OC PCB HAS A COVER OVER ONE PIECE WHERE THE NON-OC BOARD DOES NOT. I THINK THE COVERS ARE WRONG FROM THE FACTORY FOR MY MONITORS!*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, just an observation that apparently these manufacturers are using a grab bag of parts to put these monitors on the market.


This seems to also go along with the 'for evaluation purposes only' thing. The plot thickens.


----------



## sh1v

wow. amazing job. lets hope issues doesnt pop up down the line


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tea1023*
> 
> Man this is awesome.
> Ive been following the main thread, but unsuccessful in getting an answer so far, can someone here confirm that the input lag is unnoticeable for competitive FPS games? CS:S/TF2/BF3 etc? as in, would these monitors be unsuitable for those games?
> thanks!!


I can confirm that I have no noticable input lag for BF3 and CS:S.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> You swapped out all 3 pieces correct? DVI Controller / Cable / LCD Controller


Um, DUH!







Only way this would work. Other monitor plugging away at 66hz (highest I can get it). Everything seems fine for now. Come on suppliers, come on suppliers . . . .

EDIT: I also got a chance to look at the double sticker issue I have from my OC monitor. Taking it apart slightly with a heat gun applied, it is the same monitor type, just a different S/N. Weird they put two on there. Since the stickers are exactly on top of each other I wonder if it was just a "double pull" rather than intentional. Would be real hard to get them to line up so well. No idea.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrRetina*
> 
> Great. What about that horizontal line on the screen some of you talked about in the beginning of the thread (if i remember correctly)?
> My Catleap 2C has no lines whatsoever, so I was thinking if the "line" is controller / refresh rate related?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have zero lines on either screen. That may be GPU related since I don't think nVidias see that? Not sure. But two different panels - same exact look. Running them with a GTX 250 at the moment with no lines, no weird ghosting, everything looks perfect so far.


Did you use the lines test image?








Both halves should have the same lines. Are both halves equal?

People always claim they don't have the lines, but I've seen them on nearly every H-IPS panel. It's not specific to any GPU or OS.


----------



## three0duster

Just Got my Catleap in! It seems to be a non OC model. Ordered on the 10th (11th Korea) shipped on the 15th and arrived Today 19th. No dead/stuck pixels and the stand is straight. (no lean) It does have a slight wobble, but that is to be expected. I have not tried games yet, I have it hooked up to my office machine. (4870 512MB) Turned on without a hitch. It will operate at all resolutions, but it may be the video card scaling. I will post up pics when I get time. Also this was from the seller Green-sum.


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Um, DUH!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only way this would work. Other monitor plugging away at 66hz (highest I can get it). Everything seems fine for now. Come on suppliers, come on suppliers . . . .
> 
> EDIT: I also got a chance to look at the double sticker issue I have from my OC monitor. Taking it apart slightly with a heat gun applied, it is the same monitor type, just a different S/N. Weird they put two on there. Since the stickers are exactly on top of each other I wonder if it was just a "double pull" rather than intentional. Would be real hard to get them to line up so well. No idea.


If I wanted to raise ming to 65-66hz, do I need to change any other settings besides the Hz in the mod tool?

I'd do $75 bucks to replace my internals with the OC versions for sure.


----------



## Faster_is_better

Wow, nice news. So it is really just as simple as replacing that small board, and cables to upgrade them into OC versions?

OCN should be proud. Finding amazing deals on great screens, and THEN oc'ing them, lol


----------



## CrazzyRussian

So, anybody got any luck somehow taking apart the Shimian? I have a stuck pixel under my glass and I want to massage it to try and fix it


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrazzyRussian*
> 
> So, anybody got any luck somehow taking apart the Shimian? I have a stuck pixel under my glass and I want to massage it to try and fix it


This is the Catleap Club my friend! Check the Shimian club thread.


----------



## siberx

Amazing work with the swap Scribby! I haven't heard anything back from the alternative suppliers I'm looking in to for potentially compatible dvi boards, but will let you know if I find anything more out. I ordered that timing controller off taobao that I linked a few days ago, so if I can source a dvi board and cable I should be able to make it work even if your suppliers don't pull through


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Amazing work with the swap Scribby! I haven't heard anything back from the alternative suppliers I'm looking in to for potentially compatible dvi boards, but will let you know if I find anything more out. I ordered that timing controller off taobao that I linked a few days ago, so if I can source a dvi board and cable I should be able to make it work even if your suppliers don't pull through


Sounds good.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Amazing work with the swap Scribby! I haven't heard anything back from the alternative suppliers I'm looking in to for potentially compatible dvi boards, but will let you know if I find anything more out. I ordered that timing controller off taobao that I linked a few days ago, so if I can source a dvi board and cable I should be able to make it work even if your suppliers don't pull through


How much did the t-con board cost including shipping?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> How much did the t-con board cost including shipping?


About $31 or so with slow boat shipping ($0.65!). Unfortunately only one appears to have been listed in that auction, but there are a couple other less clear postings that may also be timing controllers with much greater stock.


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> If I wanted to raise ming to 65-66hz, do I need to change any other settings besides the Hz in the mod tool?


Can anyone point me in the direction for this? I've looked at the OP and I can't find any settings on how to do it.


----------



## bQvle

Sad story for this guy
http://www.overclock.net/t/1230911/removing-the-anti-glare-coating-on-u2711

but, he did however open his Dell u2711.
If you look at the pictures, it seems that even a dell might be upgradable. the center board actualy looks alot like the Catleap one that OC, but its not identical.


----------



## ughnook

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> *IT'S ALIVE!!!!!*
> So the swap was a complete success! Here are some pics to show y'all!! Sorry for the large files - just wanted to get some good pics up.
> Fingers crossed we can get these PCBs sourced!


Great work Scribby!

If these boards can be sourced it is an insurance policy for those who do not want to OC. Why? Because if your monitor fails, buying this "kit" is cheaper than sending it back to Korea for repairs.
This is a hardware insurance policy against the zero warranty and zero support when/if your monitor fails.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ughnook*
> 
> Great work Scribby!
> If these boards can be sourced it is an insurance policy for those who do not want to OC. Why? Because if your monitor fails, buying this "kit" is cheaper than sending it back to Korea for repairs.
> This is a hardware insurance policy against the zero warranty and zero support when/if your monitor fails.


Except if the panel itself fails


----------



## erocker

Could someone please provide a screenshot of the stock settings in the toastyX CRU program for the Catleap Q270. Kinda urgent.


----------



## ToastyX

Just use the delete button next to the monitor list, then click OK and reboot. That will reset it to the default configuration.


----------



## erocker

It's only giving me a very small resolution and when I open the program again, it's all blank. Now when I get into windows with the monitor I get a blank screen.

I got it. There was another listing in the drop down box I didn't see. All is well. Thanks ToastyX.


----------



## ToastyX

That's weird. It shouldn't be all blank unless you deleted all the resolutions. Did you use the delete button next to the copy/paste buttons? That removes the EDID information from the registry. After rebooting, it should have reset to the default configuration.

If it's all blank after doing that, then the monitor is reporting an EDID with no resolutions, which is strange. If that's the case, try deleting the monitor again, then click OK and shut down the computer. Then unplug the monitor's power supply for 30 seconds, then plug it back in and turn the computer back on. I've seen monitors get confused in rare cases and that usually fixes it.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *araman*
> 
> Except if the panel itself fails


True, but what's left of the monitor once you don't include the boards to drive it is basically the LCD matrix itself, which is not even really a single "component" to fail anyways. It's pretty unusual for a panel itself to go bad without having some kind of physical trauma applied to it (meaning that you see bad panels in notebooks all the time







) so a set of boards still covers a pretty large chunk of failures for a monitor like this, and probably the most likely ones too.


----------



## CTM Audi

Ill rate mine about an 8/10. I have a bit more backlight bleed then normal (going to mess with the bezel to try and fix it), and the one dead pixel is noticeable only with white or really bright color behind it (because its simply a black dot). Its down in the lower left though, where I wont be looking except when I am using the start button or something.

The amount of extra "space" compared to 1080P is nuts. In the pics I have one with a browser of equal width on it and my 23in 1080P ASUS. The extra height is well more then I could have imagined as well.

I was scared of not having AG, but now that I see it, Ill never go back. Reflections arent an issue unless its all dark screen with a very bright room.

I did have it come on as a bunch of lines, but turned it off then back on, and it was fine. The first try I turned the PC on then monitor on. When it did the lines, the monitor was in sleep mode when I turned the PC on.

Packaging,







Next to the 23in ASUS







Lines and dead pixel,


----------



## dinsdale2

Could someone pls send me their EDID file for a Catleap Q270 SE to [email protected] ?

(I guess since the panel is the same the others are also fine)

My Problem:

I only have a laptop at my disposal with a DisplayPort (Lenovo T520 with nvs 4200m). I tried using a active dual DP -> DVI adapter as well as a single DP -> DVI cable to connect the monitor however the panel always stays black no matter which resolution I choose. In windows I was at least able to get quick flicker but no image. I believe the EDID information might not get transmitted through the adapter/Cabel and I don't have a Desktop with DVI plugs system which I could use instead. (get-edid doesn't get information) At least in Linux I should be able to specify manually EDID file to use.

I hope this works and that the monitor is not broken .... :-S


----------



## stryker7314

I would like to thank ToastyX for his CRU program, not only have I overclocked my Catleap and other monitors with it, but also my laptop, got my Lenovo X120e to 97hz, smooth as butter.







I believe he is the father of monitor overclocking and it will now be a new measure by which monitors will be judged.

For example: That's a great display, but it only goes to 67hz... ugh. If it went to at least 85hz, it would be money... 25hz from 60 is 25 more fps people, that's about 42% performance increase, and anything over 90 is greater than 50% performance increase. Were all about performance gain percentage wise here on OCN.


----------



## digita1 ecstasy

Anyone who ordered any time last week get a ridiculously high shipping estimate? Like over a month?


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> I can confirm that I have no noticable input lag for BF3 and CS:S.


Is this OC'ed and if yes at what refresh?

Does input lag improve with higher OC?

---

Got my Catleap SE today from greensum. Ordered on Sunday 3/11 but only shipped 3/15. Still haven't checked the serial is a 2C3. Haven't had a chance to unpack it yet to check it out. The monitor came large EMSbox, with two smaller ones wedged on each side. No bubble wrap except as a topper and below. Hope the monitor survived the shipment. No obvious damage on the outside.


----------



## kevinsbane

Just got my Catleap in today, it's a tempered glass without speakers from Green-sum. The stand sucks balls. However, I had planned for this and gotten myself an Ergotron MX monitor arm and that thing is a beast. Needed a few washers to get the right screw length, but it worked out. I have a 2B model (I ordered mine last Monday).

Comments...

It buzzes :-/ I was trying out the refresh rate tool, and it was buzzing like mad. I'm not sure that I'm getting the full 85hz outta the thing (I'm currently running an HD5770). It seems that I'm dropping frames?

I think I have a few dead subpixels around the panel, but they are not going to be bothering me. I have a piece of dust in the upper right hand corner, but that's my fault (I did open it up). When you open the monitor up, you expose the inside of the glass, so getting it out will be very possible although annoying.

On the internals side, my monitor came with two connections to the logic board; I presume this means 85hz is possible for me?

Anyhow, overall it is a beautiful screen. Perfect? No, not quite. But very good overall. Now to calibrate the thing. The only flaw with my particular panel is the buzzing. I will have to take it apart to see... it buzzes when I ran the full screen refresh rate tool. Seems to depend on what's running? Anyone else get buzzing?


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Just got my Catleap in today, it's a tempered glass without speakers from Green-sum. I have a 2B model (I ordered mine last Monday).
> Comments...
> It buzzes :-/ I was trying out the refresh rate tool, and it was buzzing like mad. I'm not sure that I'm getting the full 85hz outta the thing (I'm currently running an HD5770). It seems that I'm dropping frames?
> I think I have a few dead subpixels around the panel, but they are not going to be bothering me. I have a piece of dust in the upper right hand corner, but that's my fault (I did open it up). When you open the monitor up, you expose the inside of the glass, so getting it out will be very possible although annoying.


Was about to congratulate you on the 2B, but the other issues suck. Maybe you can order a second and swap internals.


----------



## erocker

I OC'd it to 65hz fine. Doesn't go above that. Mine is a 2c model with one connection to the logic board. It's not an OC model. I tried 75hz and it failed. Hopefully we can buy new logic boards soon! I don't notice input lag on either 60 or 65hz. The overall experience with this monitor is vastly better to the Samsung 2493HM I was using.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Just got my Catleap in today, it's a tempered glass without speakers from Green-sum. The stand sucks balls. However, I had planned for this and gotten myself an Ergotron MX monitor arm and that thing is a beast. Needed a few washers to get the right screw length, but it worked out. I have a 2B model (I ordered mine last Monday).


I ordered the Ergotron MX myself... It will most likely be more sturdy than my desk is. lol.


----------



## Demented

Hey Scribby, or anyone who has taken a Catleap apart, how hard is it to remove the front bezel completely from the panel? I'm thinking of painting it a nice black matte, so it won't attract fingerprints, and should make the glossy screen stand out well. I figure I just need to do the front bezel and not the whole back since I'm not looking there. I've noticed some minor discoloration on the bezel, that looks like cheap plastic, and I don't much like the YAMAKASI and other logos/info as well.


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Just got my Catleap in today, it's a tempered glass without speakers from Green-sum. The stand sucks balls. However, I had planned for this and gotten myself an Ergotron MX monitor arm and that thing is a beast. Needed a few washers to get the right screw length, but it worked out. I have a 2B model (I ordered mine last Monday).
> Comments...
> It buzzes :-/ I was trying out the refresh rate tool, and it was buzzing like mad. I'm not sure that I'm getting the full 85hz outta the thing (I'm currently running an HD5770). It seems that I'm dropping frames?
> I think I have a few dead subpixels around the panel, but they are not going to be bothering me. I have a piece of dust in the upper right hand corner, but that's my fault (I did open it up). When you open the monitor up, you expose the inside of the glass, so getting it out will be very possible although annoying.
> On the internals side, my monitor came with two connections to the logic board; I presume this means 85hz is possible for me?
> Anyhow, overall it is a beautiful screen. Perfect? No, not quite. But very good overall. Now to calibrate the thing. The only flaw with my particular panel is the buzzing. I will have to take it apart to see... it buzzes when I ran the full screen refresh rate tool. Seems to depend on what's running? Anyone else get buzzing?


If you want to debrand it, I learned the best thing to use was a sugar cube! Hard enough to scratch the paint off (the logos are painted on) and soft enough not to scratch the plastic.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Was about to congratulate you on the 2B, but the other issues suck. Maybe you can order a second and swap internals.


There's only one real issue, that being the buzzing (when overclocked; see below). I am not sure whether it is my video card... you know, it might just be my video card. I am pushing two monitors off of it right now, and that might affect the refresh rates and all that. Let me do some further testing. Three stuck subpixels; the others were just specks of dust. The green subpixel on two of them have failed. Two blue subpixels are dead, I think on the same pixel. No dead red subpixels. They are in opposite corners.

Backlight bleed, very, very little that I can tell. IPS glow means I'll have to sit a little further back.

Ok, buzzing occurs when I go higher than 60 hz. At 60hz, the noise is acceptable. I still can't tell whether or not I'm actually hitting 80-85hz, because I do appear to be dropping frames either due to my video card, an old HD 5770, or because the panel itself isn't doing it. I think it's the video card, since the panel itself changes sounds and tones in buzzing when I change the refresh rate. Well, once Kepler comes around, time to figure out what I want to do... AMD or Nvidia...


----------



## alricking

I read some post somewhere that some monitor does not support HDCP? *** is HDCP


----------



## Master Freez

*alricking* HDCP is a High Definitiopn Copy Protection. It means that you can play some Blu-Ray disks only when player\videocard & minotor\tv supports it same time.

So...is there *anybody* who don't have an HDCP supported Catlpead?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Hey Scribby, or anyone who has taken a Catleap apart, how hard is it to remove the front bezel completely from the panel? I'm thinking of painting it a nice black matte, so it won't attract fingerprints, and should make the glossy screen stand out well. I figure I just need to do the front bezel and not the whole back since I'm not looking there. I've noticed some minor discoloration on the bezel, that looks like cheap plastic, and I don't much like the YAMAKASI and other logos/info as well.


Very easy. Just follow the guide in the first post and you will have it off in about 2 minutes!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Very easy. Just follow the guide in the first post and you will have it off in about 2 minutes!


Cool. I've never done any painting before. I have the black matte spray paint, so I'm thinking I just need to sand it down a little, make sure it's clean from debris, and spray away? I'd like to do this tomorrow, since I'm taking it apart then anyway for the new stand.


----------



## sonicBlue

What would be nice is if we could learn how to disassemble the actual panel itself and reseat the light guide or diffuser to improve screen uniformity for those units that have issues with that.


----------



## omekone

Just wanted to let you guys know, I pulled my monitor apart today to remove the "arch" and install a VESA mount.... I was able to remove the arch without breaking anything. After it was unscrewed it came right off and can be attached again later.

2c model.


----------



## Djankie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digita1 ecstasy*
> 
> Anyone who ordered any time last week get a ridiculously high shipping estimate? Like over a month?


I ordered last Sunday, where can one see the estimated shipping date??


----------



## Talfrey

So is anyone still getting 2B or or those out?

Similarly, any news on the PCB swap?


----------



## Somenamehere

Instead of spray painting just use some 1000-2000 grit sandpaper. I had to do it when the goo gone I used melted the plastic, and honestly it looks pretty good.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Instead of spray painting just use some 1000-2000 grit sandpaper. I had to do it when the goo gone I used melted the plastic, and honestly it looks pretty good.


Pic?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Instead of spray painting just use some 1000-2000 grit sandpaper. I had to do it when the goo gone I used melted the plastic, and honestly it looks pretty good.


2000-3000, I'd say. 1000 is still a little rough. Problem is, high grit paper is actually hard to find. At least where I live. But yeah. Good call man.


----------



## three0duster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> I ordered last Sunday, where can one see the estimated shipping date??


Depends on who you ordered it from. I ordered from green sum on the 10th (late evening) shipped on the 15th and arrived on the 19th. Some that ordered from the samsung guy say it only takes 2-3 days using fedex. But I'm sure it all depends on availability at the seller. But your ebay supplied estimated shipping date is usually in your auction page.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> So is anyone still getting 2B or or those out?
> Similarly, any news on the PCB swap?


I got a 2B model.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I got a 2B model.


Well, that is about as uninformative as the ones who post "i got mine in two days" with zero info added.

Don't bother telling anyone any useful info like...
What model you ordered
When you ordered it
When you received it
Who you ordered from


----------



## Demented

Wish me luck people! I'm about to crack this bad boy open! I decided I won't paint it now, UNLESS it's a real PITA to get apart. I think it's going to be a lot easier than I think, and if so, I can do it another time.

I have to be honest though, before joining OCN, I would have never even fathomed the thought of opening up a $400 monitor that's not even 3 weeks old.

I guess that's a good thing.









I'll report back later!


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Well, that is about as uninformative as the ones who post "i got mine in two days" with zero info added.
> Don't bother telling anyone any useful info like...
> What model you ordered
> When you ordered it
> When you received it
> Who you ordered from


I guess i should add to this by saying i'm not trying to be a Smart-A**

It's just it would be nice if we tried harder to share info better.

I know from *kevinsbane*'s earlier posts that he ordered from green-sum has glass and no speakers.

But there is just no way everyone can keep track of all these posts in all the Q70 threads.

I keep seeing people post , "i got mine today" and then you have to search to see when/who they ordered from, since they think because they posted a week ago that
they ordered one, everyone remembers it.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Wish me luck people! I'm about to crack this bad boy open! I decided I won't paint it now, UNLESS it's a real PITA to get apart. I think it's going to be a lot easier than I think, and if so, I can do it another time.
> I have to be honest though, before joining OCN, I would have never even fathomed the thought of opening up a $400 monitor that's not even 3 weeks old.
> I guess that's a good thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll report back later!


Yeah, i wouldn't paint it either.
Then later you have to worry about touch-ups if it gets chipped.
Although flat black is an easy touch-up match, why bother if you don't have to.
Good Luck.


----------



## Demented

OK, it was a successful opening and removal, but I haven't reconnected it yet. I'm wondering what some of the others did with the now gaping hole on the bottom where the stand protruded? I'm sure no harm would come by leaving it open, unless I had small critters running on my desk, but before I reconnect it, I'd like to know what some other people did.


----------



## Talfrey

While we're on the subject, the FAQ states that all of them seem to be able to hit 85HZ, but apparently that's not the case unless it's a 2B, is that right?

Is the FAQ out of date, or am I missing something?


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> While we're on the subject, the FAQ states that all of them seem to be able to hit 85HZ, but apparently that's not the case unless it's a 2B, is that right?
> Is the FAQ out of date, or am I missing something?


Nope, you're not missing anything.
So far with what little data has been gathered you need a 2b for 85hz or more.
I don't think anyone with a 2c has gotten over 65hz.


----------



## Demented

Total Success!



It was a single connection to the PCB.





It does appear to be a sticker on a sticker. I can't seem to see the part on the understicker that may have the words 'For Evaluation Purposes Only'.



All set up. Sorry I didn't take any pics of the stand attachment, so these will have to do.













I was worried about my center speaker placement, but it fits PERFECTLY!


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Nope, you're not missing anything.
> So far with what little data has been gathered you need a 2b for 85hz or more.
> I don't think anyone with a 2c has gotten over 65hz.


Might want to update the FAQ then, nearly pulled the trigger for that fact alone.

Hoping we can sort out the PCB swap with new cables as a fix to get it high again.

I'm totally down for that group buy...

x3 to be exact


----------



## rayjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> OK, it was a successful opening and removal, but I haven't reconnected it yet. I'm wondering what some of the others did with the now gaping hole on the bottom where the stand protruded? I'm sure no harm would come by leaving it open, unless I had small critters running on my desk, but before I reconnect it, I'd like to know what some other people did.


Did you reconnect the black plastic piece that was screwed to the silver arc? It still has holes in it but it's better than nothing.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> Did you reconnect the black plastic piece that was screwed to the silver arc? It still has holes in it but it's better than nothing.


Without the silver arch, there's nothing for those screws to attach to. (At least that I saw.) I don't think anything will happen with it open, but maybe I'll slap a piece of packing tape on it. Pop some holes in it for ventilation...lol


----------



## rayjay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Without the silver arch, there's nothing for those screws to attach to. (At least that I saw.) I don't think anything will happen with it open, but maybe I'll slap a piece of packing tape on it. Pop some holes in it for ventilation...lol


I used the bigger leftover screws which seemed to hold. Nice pics btw.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rayjay*
> 
> I used the bigger leftover screws which seemed to hold. Nice pics btw.


There's something I didn't think of.







Oh well.









And thanks.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> OK, it was a successful opening and removal, but I haven't reconnected it yet. I'm wondering what some of the others did with the now gaping hole on the bottom where the stand protruded? I'm sure no harm would come by leaving it open, unless I had small critters running on my desk, but before I reconnect it, I'd like to know what some other people did.


I found a small dead critter and stuffed the holes with them!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> While we're on the subject, the FAQ states that all of them seem to be able to hit 85HZ, but apparently that's not the case unless it's a 2B, is that right?
> Is the FAQ out of date, or am I missing something?


I will update - initially, the Achievas were able to hit 85hz as well or so it was thought. After a few more came in it appeared that people weren't exactly truthful in their monitor's ability to OC.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> Might want to update the FAQ then, nearly pulled the trigger for that fact alone.
> Hoping we can sort out the PCB swap with new cables as a fix to get it high again.
> I'm totally down for that group buy...
> x3 to be exact


I will change it.

EDIT: FAQ UPDATED


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Off topic question - for the last two days I have not received updates from OCN. Nothing, nada, zilch. Nothing to spam - just went dark. Is it me? Anyone else with this problem? I haven't changed any settings so not sure what to check.

Thanks!


----------



## PearlJammzz

On the issue of painting the bezel...it can be done rather easily. I would get some 1500-2000 grit and wet sand the plastic surface. I would then prime it, then paint it.

I did this (minus the sanding) on my original XBox and it looked amazing! I went to a local hobby shop (this was in ~03) and got some spray paint make specifically for plastic. I bet you could make the bezel look an amazing, perfect flat-black. Also if you spend the time to do it right you'll have no issues with scratching or paint chips ever.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> On the issue of painting the bezel...it can be done rather easily. I would get some 1500-2000 grit and wet sand the plastic surface. I would then prime it, then paint it.
> I did this (minus the sanding) on my original XBox and it looked amazing! I went to a local hobby shop (this was in ~03) and got some spray paint make specifically for plastic. I bet you could make the bezel look an amazing, perfect flat-black. Also if you spend the time to do it right you'll have no issues with scratching or paint chips ever.


I definitely might just do that one day. It was a lot easier to get it of than I thought, so doing it again should be a breeze.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Off topic question - for the last two days I have not received updates from OCN. Nothing, nada, zilch. Nothing to spam - just went dark. Is it me? Anyone else with this problem? I haven't changed any settings so not sure what to check.
> 
> Thanks!


Mine seem to still be coming in - I got my last update about an hour ago.


----------



## dinsdale2

Anyone mercy with a poor linux user here and could send me their EDID from their catleap (SE version only with DVI in)

This is the only option I still see after I've been configuring this thing for 2 days straight. Was able to get it to run on windows via an active DisplayPort -> VI Dual Adapter but I can't get it to work on Linux at all. Problem is I can't work under windows. There is nothig more frustrating than hacking on the small laptop monitor whle seing your own mirror image in the big black monster that just decides to not spew any output towards you at all !!

On Linux you can usually get the EDID with the 'get-edid' command. on arch it's the package read-edid. I tried the varous tools in this thread to aquire the edid myself but I guess because of the active adpater it doesn't go through. Also the monitor displays as 'Unknown' in my systemsettings so it appears I can't get it myself and I don't have another desktop GFX at my disposal.

Thank you in advance.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Got my Catleap SE today from greensum. Ordered on Sunday 3/11 but only shipped 3/15. Still haven't checked the serial is a 2C3. Haven't had a chance to unpack it yet to check it out. The monitor came large EMSbox, with two smaller ones wedged on each side. No bubble wrap except as a topper and below. Hope the monitor survived the shipment. No obvious damage on the outside.


Quick update. Looks like the monitor is perfect and no deadpixels.







Next steps are to play with calibration and ordered this monoprice stand since I have no more space on my desk.


----------



## cruisx

Monitor should be here today or tomorrow. I was wondering Im in canada and ordered from dcsamsung, do i need to change the power adapter or buy a converter? Or am i good with the stock one out of the box?


----------



## LazierSaid

Help needed - can someone with a working Q270 check the voltage coming out of the power brick?

My brick is Welltronics WTS-2405W labelled 24 volt. Screen died in one day - no display, blinking red power light - and brick output is just 18V.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quick update - I now have P/Ns and pics for the PCBs out to four suppliers - waiting to hear back.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazierSaid*
> 
> Help needed - can someone with a working Q270 check the voltage coming out of the power brick?
> My brick is Welltronics WTS-2405W labelled 24 volt. Screen died in one day - no display, blinking red power light - and brick output is just 18V.


I don't have a multimeter at my office. If you don't a response today I will test mine in the am.


----------



## LazierSaid

Thanks Scribby.

I didn't want to spend $125 sending it back to Korea without any confidence of a positive resolution. So I opened it up and voided the warranty!

I reconnected the three internal ribbon connectors and that made no difference. If you can verify that your brick is outputting 24V I will try to come up with a replacement and see if that helps.

This monitor was beautiful for the one day that it worked!


----------



## DreamTwister

Got my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 LED Multi monitor [the one with extra video inputs]. Ordered it on 3/11, got it on 3/19. There are enough unboxing pictures so instead I just wanted to show how this monitor is capable of displaying PS3 at 1080p. Somebody mentioned it would not be possible because the monitor didn't have a scaler and to be honest, I'm not that technical when it comes to monitors nor did I research much on the topic but, wouldn't this prove otherwise? Sound off and tell me what you think. Also, apologies for the crappy quality of my pictures. My little MetroPCS cel its doing the best it can.

[[[ PS3 doesn't lie... or does it? ]]]










[[[ NO OVERSCAN = Picture perfect ]]]








]

[[[ RESISTANCE 3 on Yama...wait







, ah... hold on... I can explain!... ]]]










[[[ These videos are terrible quality, but they make the point ]]]











I purchased this monitor from dream-seller for $427.00 a week ago. Since then it has been creeping up and it sits at $499.00 as of this writing. The seller green-sum still had it at ~ $430 until today when he priced it up $100 more! YIKES! All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with the monitor. For the price it can't be beat.







Hope it helps those who are considering between models.

P.S.: Oh yeah, the speakers are not worth it on this thing. Of course I wasn't expecting Dolby here...


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quick update - I now have P/Ns and pics for the PCBs out to four suppliers - waiting to hear back.


Excuse me if I am a bit forward, but...


----------



## SirCharles

Greetings,
Thread stalker for about 2 weeks now. Actually I ordered first and then begun reading the original thread by Bruce. Ordered on May 4th (the imfamous Korean holiday weekend) from Green-Sum... Sent on May 6th, tracking number was available immediately, but the updating was horrible... I live in Europe and basically my update was "picked-up, handed over to air-carrier,.... and 13 days later with NO UPDATES, " arrived at destination airport"
Most worthless tracking ever








Anyway, let's get on with it...
yamakasi catleap vanilla. No glass/no speakers
Tilting is not too bad.
Wobbly as hell but not notice-ably crooked...
*I have a 2C*
I am not going to search for burnt/stuck pixels, so excuse me before hand. Others have described my state of mind on the matter. Either way if I am going to notice 4-5 pixels in 4million I might as well do it after I've spent some time enjoying this wonderful monitor. I 'm giving the monitor a "9" overall. I didn't want to mislead anybody thiniking I had a perfect panel or a defect-ridden one. Obviously to get a 9 is "seems" flawless. But as others stated, we know we are not getting "the good stuff", so I am fairly grounded on the whole issue. I just hope it lasts...

EDIT: Forgot to mention... NOTICEABLE BACKLIGHT BLEED. From what I've seen around same area as everybodys. Top of the screen near the center 2 small light sources create a bleeding in a black b/g... Of course not annoying, just thought I should mention it... Hadn't seen it when I rated the monitor with a "9"... That alone seems to justify 1 point off!









I have a 5850 CF setup. Main is a sapphire ref design and both its DVI ports seem to be dual link because I get a picture with BOTH of them.
Using SUPPLIED CABLE
However...
I CANNOT SEE BIOS SCREEN... anyone else with this issue??
I have read the entire other thread over the course of waiting for my catleap, I remember people asking this, but I don't seem to recall any answer... sorry

I get a picture as soon as windows boots... with BOTH DVI ports of my 5850, until then... blinking green light and black screen...

Onto some jpegs. My previous screen in some of the pics is an LG 245WP (P-MVA panel) in portrait mode



































2 docs side by side @ 150%...

















































Onto filling the form

Feel free to ask away...


----------



## stblazer

The price on the catleap base model (dvi only) keeps dropping while the multi (hdmi) version keeps rising...


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirCharles*
> 
> I CANNOT SEE BIOS SCREEN... anyone else with this issue??
> I have read the entire other thread over the course of waiting for my catleap, I remember people asking this, but I don't seem to recall any answer... sorry
> I get a picture as soon as windows boots... with BOTH DVI ports of my 5850, until then... blinking green light and black screen...
> Onto some jpegs. My previous screen in some of the pics is an LG 245WP (P-MVA panel) in portrait mode
> 
> Onto filling the form
> Feel free to ask away...


If you don't have one of the "supported video cards" listed in DreamSeller's listing, you will not be able to see the BIOS or initial windows startup screen at boot. Nothing will show until the video drivers are loaded. Keep a second monitor handy for if/when you need access to the BIOS.

See the bottom of this image. Not at home right now or I'd clip it out myself.









BB


----------



## larrydavid

From Hardforum

http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038513826&postcount=358

"Dear Mr. C W,
Thanks for your email.
I confirm again with our technical staff today, was told that the model with [email protected] has been stopped production from now on, since supporting 120Hz drive board that we used to import from South Korea can not be found now.
The model with [email protected] use the panel with LVDS Logic board which has two screen lines to connect the drive board and panel to achieve 120Hz refresh rate.
Now what we can supply is [email protected], this model use the panel with DP logic board which has only one screen line and consequently support 60Hz.
I apologize for my mistake, I did not get the updating news from our technical department as I was busy with the preparing for the Canton Fair next month.
Attached is the panel data for your reference, hope it is helpful for you to make your decision.
Best regards,
Josh
"

Doesn't sound like our chances of finding the board are so good.


----------



## SkyPC

SirCharles, you sound like a realist.

Please give us your thoughts on how this monitor did for gaming. And please be more brief than just "It's simply amazing".

Thank you Sir


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> From Hardforum
> http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038513826&postcount=358
> "Dear Mr. C W,
> Thanks for your email.
> I confirm again with our technical staff today, was told that the model with [email protected] has been stopped production from now on, since supporting 120Hz drive board that we used to import from South Korea can not be found now.
> The model with [email protected] use the panel with LVDS Logic board which has two screen lines to connect the drive board and panel to achieve 120Hz refresh rate.
> Now what we can supply is [email protected], this model use the panel with DP logic board which has only one screen line and consequently support 60Hz.
> I apologize for my mistake, I did not get the updating news from our technical department as I was busy with the preparing for the Canton Fair next month.
> Attached is the panel data for your reference, hope it is helpful for you to make your decision.
> Best regards,
> Josh
> "
> Doesn't sound like our chances of finding the board are so good.


Poop. Well here's hoping, ya know?


----------



## SirCharles

@BBGunWB
Thanks for your answer. It seems my 5850 is among the ones that "can output" whatever that means








So... what keeps it from.... output-ing??









@SkyPC, sorry man, not too much of a gamer due to workload this time of year (hence the 2 doc pics







) ...
I just fired up ME2 (loved mass effect 1 and did not play mass effect 2 until now so I figured since 3 is out, I might as well play 2...








)
I also tried the Skyrim just to see how it looks on 1440p...
Hopefully I'll get a chance over the weekend to kill a couple of hours but I would think that 5850 CF without AA+AF would be fine. In the 10 mins I bothered with ME2+Skyrim i didn't see anything that would let me think otherwise....


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SirCharles*
> 
> @BBGunWB
> Thanks for your answer. It seems my 5850 is among the ones that "can output" whatever that means
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So... what keeps it from.... output-ing??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> @SkyPC, sorry man, not too much of a gamer due to workload this time of year (hence the 2 doc pics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) ...
> I just fired up ME2 (loved mass effect 1 and did not play mass effect 2 until now so I figured since 3 is out, I might as well play 2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I also tried the Skyrim just to see how it looks on 1440p...
> Hopefully I'll get a chance over the weekend to kill a couple of hours but I would think that 5850 CF without AA+AF would be fine. In the 10 mins I bothered with ME2+Skyrim i didn't see anything that would let me think otherwise....


I sometimes have a similarly problem with my asus v245h, basically the monitor goes into sleep mode with no input and it will be a few seconds before anything gets displayed, typically missing my bios.


----------



## araman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreamTwister*
> 
> Got my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 LED Multi monitor [the one with extra video inputs]. Ordered it on 3/11, got it on 3/19. There are enough unboxing pictures so instead I just wanted to show how this monitor is capable of displaying PS3 at 1080p. Somebody mentioned it would not be possible because the monitor didn't have a scaler and to be honest, I'm not that technical when it comes to monitors nor did I research much on the topic but, wouldn't this prove otherwise? Sound off and tell me what you think. Also, apologies for the crappy quality of my pictures. My little MetroPCS cel its doing the best it can.
> [[[ PS3 doesn't lie... or does it? ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [[[ NO OVERSCAN = Picture perfect ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> [[[ RESISTANCE 3 on Yama...wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ah... hold on... I can explain!... ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [[[ These videos are terrible quality, but they make the point ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased this monitor from dream-seller for $427.00 a week ago. Since then it has been creeping up and it sits at $499.00 as of this writing. The seller green-sum still had it at ~ $430 until today when he priced it up $100 more! YIKES! All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with the monitor. For the price it can't be beat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps those who are considering between models.
> P.S.: Oh yeah, the speakers are not worth it on this thing. Of course I wasn't expecting Dolby here...


Interesting! You're making me wish I went with a multi-input model now







I can live with the input lag as long as it's not incredibly overbearing.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> From Hardforum
> http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038513826&postcount=358
> "Dear Mr. C W,
> Thanks for your email.
> I confirm again with our technical staff today, was told that the model with [email protected] has been stopped production from now on, since supporting 120Hz drive board that we used to import from South Korea can not be found now.
> The model with [email protected] use the panel with LVDS Logic board which has two screen lines to connect the drive board and panel to achieve 120Hz refresh rate.
> Now what we can supply is [email protected], this model use the panel with DP logic board which has only one screen line and consequently support 60Hz.
> I apologize for my mistake, I did not get the updating news from our technical department as I was busy with the preparing for the Canton Fair next month.
> Attached is the panel data for your reference, hope it is helpful for you to make your decision.
> Best regards,
> Josh
> "
> Doesn't sound like our chances of finding the board are so good.


Here's hoping it's laziness in not being able to find a replacement. Although I am not sure they are talking about the same thing since 120hz has never been possible with these monitors (another hope they are confusing our boards with some other board.) Moreover, I am not talking to suppliers in South Korea - all Chinese (were the boards apparently originated from.) I have been in contact with Witech the Catleap manufacturer and they are looking into it (I think they are simply searching other sources just like we are.) If those boards are truly no longer being manufactured there has to be a similar replacement? Worst case is if your monitor was repaired they would dump all the internals and put 60hz internals in. That would suck. Since there is no direct board replacement any board capable of OC would need all new internals. As I type I get the sense there was some confusion and this isn't the same board (hope, hope, hope.







)


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Ok I just read that post and it has nothing to do with the Catleap monitor. It has to do with a completely different set up. So I am now not believing it has anything to do with the boards we are trying to source.

Here is the monitor it is in reference to: *CLICKY*

I don't buy these are the same thing since ours are tuned from the factory at 60hz and not rated at 120hz. Furthermore, we could never get 120hz out of these things. I may be stubbornly optimistic, but there.


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Ok I just read that post and it has nothing to do with the Catleap monitor. It has to do with a completely different set up. So I am now not believing it has anything to do with the boards we are trying to source.
> 
> Here is the monitor it is in reference to: *CLICKY*
> 
> I don't buy these are the same thing since ours are tuned from the factory at 60hz and not rated at 120hz. Furthermore, we could never get 120hz out of these things. I may be stubbornly optimistic, but there.


If the video cards weren't limiting the pixel clock, they could most likely do 120hz, or if a DP to dual channel LVDS board were used.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> If the video cards weren't limiting the pixel clock, they could most likely do 120hz, or if a DP to dual channel LVDS board were used.


SHHHH! That's enough out of you! I don't want to hear it! I don't want to hear it!


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> SHHHH! That's enough out of you! I don't want to hear it! I don't want to hear it!


He may be right, but the point still stands that as the Catleaps are not advertised as 120Hz their DVI boards are necessarily different, at least in terms of EDID programming (and potentially more). That itself is reason enough to believe it may still be possible to source the boards Yamakasi was using to convert DVI-LVDS on those earlier variants. I also found out that STMicroelectronics makes a *very* nicely specced chip for displayport to LVDS conversion that would be more than capable of driving these monitors to the required refresh rates (100Hz+), at least for the LVDS variants (or eDP versions that have had their timing controller replaced with the LVDS one). I contacted them to see if they have an evaluation board available for the chip, which could serve as a controller board.


----------



## ThingyNess

Got my Catleap Q270se today from green-sum. (Dual Link DVI input only)

After some poking around with the old cable for my monitor that was 10ft long and LOOKED like it was Dual Link, I eventually moved everything closer together and used the cable it came with, and it works great now. Also took me a while to realize only one of the two DVI outputs on my Radeon 6950 is dual link-enabled.

It has zero dead pixels, and no noticeable backlight bleed. There are some color uniformity shortcomings in the center of the screen, where it's noticeably more yellowish than the sides, but it probably wouldn't be caught by a regular person. For the price, I can't complain.

It's a 2C version, of course, so no super high input frequencies allowed, but it's hard to complain given the price. I have a PCBank version on the way too that hopefully will arrive soon. We'll see what the innards of that one look like...


From Catleap q270se - Mar 20, 2012


From Catleap q270se - Mar 20, 2012


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> If you don't have one of the "supported video cards" listed in DreamSeller's listing, you will not be able to see the BIOS or initial windows startup screen at boot. Nothing will show until the video drivers are loaded. Keep a second monitor handy for if/when you need access to the BIOS.


How curious. My HD 5770 manages to work with this thing in BIOS. However, maybe because I'm running a U2312hm alongside it? Regardless, during POST and during Windows startup, I do see everything as normal. Actually, it "responds faster" than my displayport U2312hm setup. Ie, i see the image on the Catleap before the Dell.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> How curious. My HD 5770 manages to work with this thing in BIOS. However, maybe because I'm running a U2312hm alongside it? Regardless, during POST and during Windows startup, I do see everything as normal. Actually, it "responds faster" than my displayport U2312hm setup. Ie, i see the image on the Catleap before the Dell.


My 4870x2 works just fine during boot/post as well, despite not being on the approved list at all. The Parade documentation (the timing controller in the non-OC models) lists the following:
Quote:


> A scaler function is included to provide a full screen display for lower resolution video that may occure during Safe Mode or other DOS modes. Full screen display is supported for input modes such as 640×480, 800×600, and 1024×768.


So it seems like the controller at least should be able to scale just fine from low-resolution modes.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Ok I just read that post and it has nothing to do with the Catleap monitor. It has to do with a completely different set up. So I am now not believing it has anything to do with the boards we are trying to source.
> 
> Here is the monitor it is in reference to: *CLICKY*
> 
> I don't buy these are the same thing since ours are tuned from the factory at 60hz and not rated at 120hz. Furthermore, we could never get 120hz out of these things.


Well, actually...

I found the monitor will display a usable picture at a lower resolution as long as the horizontal resolution stays at 2560, although part of the next frame is shown at the bottom of the screen. Doing that, I was able to get 2560x1000 @ 122 Hz. I could not get 125 Hz at any resolution, so it seems like the timing controller was actually designed to handle 120 Hz and not much more.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Well, actually...
> I found the monitor will display a usable picture at a lower resolution as long as the horizontal resolution stays at 2560, although part of the next frame is shown at the bottom of the screen. Doing that, I was able to get 2560x1000 @ 122 Hz. I could not get 125 Hz at any resolution, so it seems like the timing controller was actually designed to handle 120 Hz and not much more.


Man, this plot is getting so thick I could walk on it...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> From Hardforum
> http://hardforum.com/showpost.php?p=1038513826&postcount=358
> "Dear Mr. C W,
> Thanks for your email.
> I confirm again with our technical staff today, was told that the model with [email protected] has been stopped production from now on, since supporting 120Hz drive board that we used to import from South Korea can not be found now.
> The model with [email protected] use the panel with LVDS Logic board which has two screen lines to connect the drive board and panel to achieve 120Hz refresh rate.
> Now what we can supply is [email protected], this model use the panel with DP logic board which has only one screen line and consequently support 60Hz.
> I apologize for my mistake, I did not get the updating news from our technical department as I was busy with the preparing for the Canton Fair next month.
> Attached is the panel data for your reference, hope it is helpful for you to make your decision.
> Best regards,
> Josh
> "
> Doesn't sound like our chances of finding the board are so good.


I really like the prospect of a 120hz board though....my god.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreamTwister*
> 
> Got my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 LED Multi monitor [the one with extra video inputs]. Ordered it on 3/11, got it on 3/19. There are enough unboxing pictures so instead I just wanted to show how this monitor is capable of displaying PS3 at 1080p. Somebody mentioned it would not be possible because the monitor didn't have a scaler and to be honest, I'm not that technical when it comes to monitors nor did I research much on the topic but, wouldn't this prove otherwise? Sound off and tell me what you think. Also, apologies for the crappy quality of my pictures. My little MetroPCS cel its doing the best it can.
> [[[ PS3 doesn't lie... or does it? ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [[[ NO OVERSCAN = Picture perfect ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]
> [[[ RESISTANCE 3 on Yama...wait
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ah... hold on... I can explain!... ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [[[ These videos are terrible quality, but they make the point ]]]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I purchased this monitor from dream-seller for $427.00 a week ago. Since then it has been creeping up and it sits at $499.00 as of this writing. The seller green-sum still had it at ~ $430 until today when he priced it up $100 more! YIKES! All in all, I'm pretty satisfied with the monitor. For the price it can't be beat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps those who are considering between models.
> P.S.: Oh yeah, the speakers are not worth it on this thing. Of course I wasn't expecting Dolby here...


The multi or "game edition" monitors as they call them, lol, do have scalers. That's why they're more expensive. But they also have 3-4x the input lag which is why most stuck with the dual dvi. But we're still talking minimal I put lag. Monitor looks great bud. Congrats!


----------



## r506

.


----------



## alamone

You can still use the single input one with consoles at 720P (tested with xbox at least),
although swapping the DVI cable is a bit of a hassle.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I really like the prospect of a 120hz board though....my god.


With the right displayport to LVDS controller board and the LVDS variants (two cable, 2B) of the panels, it may be possible.... sourcing such a converter board is fairly challenging however


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alamone*
> 
> You can still use the single input one with consoles at 720P (tested with xbox at least),
> although swapping the DVI cable is a bit of a hassle.


That doesn't work for me on the 2B version.


----------



## SkyPC

I bought Catleap on like, 18.03 but the thing is, usually when I buy an item, they update the status with "Shipped" in the next day +-. But for this purchase it's still the same as it was when I paid for it, same status.

Is this the same for others who bought from green-sum. Does he just send the monitor w/o even marking it as shipped ? And did he sent an tracking number right away or you had to beg for it?


----------



## r506

.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I bought Catleap on like, 18.03 but the thing is, usually when I buy an item, they update the status with "Shipped" in the next day +-. But for this purchase it's still the same as it was when I paid for it, same status.
> Is this the same for others who bought from green-sum. Does he just send the monitor w/o even marking it as shipped ? And did he sent an tracking number right away or you had to beg for it?


My first catleap I got tracking info from green-sum the day after I ordered, and it showed up about 3 days after ordering. The second one he seems backed up; it's now 6 days since I ordered and I'm still waiting on tracking info.


----------



## dinsdale2

since I havb't been able to get a EDID dump yet for this monitor (or maybe this even doesn't even work under windows, I don't know) - I'm trying now to find out about the vertical and horizontal refresh rates to manually put them in my xorg.conf file . Does anyone have an idea where I could start?

I found this spec sheet from a Hazro monitor which seems to be similar but no dice so far.

http://www.hazro.co.uk/downloads/HZ27WA_C_Instructions.pdf

This only produces a black picture :-(

Code:



Code:


Section "Monitor"
    Identifier     "Monitor1"
    Option         "Enable" "true"
        HorizSync       31.44 - 88.80
        VertRefresh     60.01 - 70.02
        Modeline "2560x1440_60.00"  311.83  2560 2744 3024 3488  1440 1441 1444 1490  -HSync +Vsync
EndSection


----------



## alamone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> That doesn't work for me on the 2B version.


Forgot to mention I have the 2C revision. So I guess that's one minor advantage,
although to be honest I'd much rather have the ability to go higher refresh rate.
Maybe the 2C also is HDCP compatible whereas the 2B is not? My Onkyo receiver
puts HDCP on the HDMI output so I would assume the 2C is HDCP compatible.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dinsdale2*
> 
> since I havb't been able to get a EDID dump yet for this monitor (or maybe this even doesn't even work under windows, I don't know) - I'm trying now to find out about the vertical and horizontal refresh rates to manually put them in my xorg.conf file . Does anyone have an idea where I could start?
> I found this spec sheet from a Hazro monitor which seems to be similar but no dice so far.
> http://www.hazro.co.uk/downloads/HZ27WA_C_Instructions.pdf
> This only produces a black picture :-(


I'm not exactly sure which specific info you're after, but I can probably help - would the information in DumpEDID's output be sufficient? I can also grab the default resolution parameters from ToastyX's CRU if you can't track them down yourself (syncs, resolution, front/back porch, etc...). I'll be home in an hour and can do it then.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I bought Catleap on like, 18.03 but the thing is, usually when I buy an item, they update the status with "Shipped" in the next day +-. But for this purchase it's still the same as it was when I paid for it, same status.
> Is this the same for others who bought from green-sum. Does he just send the monitor w/o even marking it as shipped ? And did he sent an tracking number right away or you had to beg for it?


Yup. Greensum is relocating their warehouse. Should be done by the end of today. So I'd expect shipping to resume as of tomorrow.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> That doesn't work for me on the 2B version.


I only got 1280x720 to work when I enabled the "display discovery". But again mine is a 2C.

I just connected the xbox up again and I'm getting a very green screen. Seems red isn't displaying - Weird!

Edit: Most likely a dodgy hdmi to dvi cable. Don't have any others to try though.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dinsdale2*
> 
> since I havb't been able to get a EDID dump yet for this monitor (or maybe this even doesn't even work under windows, I don't know) - I'm trying now to find out about the vertical and horizontal refresh rates to manually put them in my xorg.conf file . Does anyone have an idea where I could start?
> I found this spec sheet from a Hazro monitor which seems to be similar but no dice so far.
> http://www.hazro.co.uk/downloads/HZ27WA_C_Instructions.pdf
> This only produces a black picture :-(
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Section "Monitor"
> Identifier     "Monitor1"
> Option         "Enable" "true"
> HorizSync       31.44 - 88.80
> VertRefresh     60.01 - 70.02
> Modeline "2560x1440_60.00"  311.83  2560 2744 3024 3488  1440 1441 1444 1490  -HSync +Vsync
> EndSection


The modeline should be:

Modeline "2560x1440_60.00" 241.50 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 +HSync -VSync

You shouldn't need HorizSync or VertRefresh, but if you do, the range needs to include 59.950 Hz and 88.786 KHz for that modeline.

I have the raw EDID for the catleap SE here: http://www.toastyx.net/catleap.bin


----------



## SkyPC

I see dead pixels in my nightmares.

Please ship faster


----------



## dinsdale2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I'm not exactly sure which specific info you're after, but I can probably help - would the information in DumpEDID's output be sufficient? I can also grab the default resolution parameters from ToastyX's CRU if you can't track them down yourself (syncs, resolution, front/back porch, etc...). I'll be home in an hour and can do it then.


thanks for your help, I really appreciate it







. I think just the DumpEDID output would give me enough to work with since it should have the relevant information.

I've tried getting the EDID in windows myself but I think because I run the display through an active Displayport adapter -> dual DVI cable the EDID information somehow gets lost in translation. The Catleap also shows up without no vendor name in windows and I had trouble getting windows to recognize it at the beginning.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yup. Greensum is relocating their warehouse. Should be done by the end of today. So I'd expect shipping to resume as of tomorrow.


Where and how the heck did you get that info?
This is the 2nd time ive seen someone mention their warehouse move.

I ordered the 14th and still haven't heard from green-sum.
It wouldn't bother me so much if all you guys would quit posting they got theirs 3 days after ordering.


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> How curious. My HD 5770 manages to work with this thing in BIOS. However, maybe because I'm running a U2312hm alongside it? Regardless, during POST and during Windows startup, I do see everything as normal. Actually, it "responds faster" than my displayport U2312hm setup. Ie, i see the image on the Catleap before the Dell.


heh.

I have a 5770, a U2412 and my BIOS and wondows boot comes up on the U2412 until the drivers load, then it shuts off the 2412 and shows the initial login on the Yamakasi.

I wonder if its a port thing and I should try switching the cables - maybe this weekend I'll run the experiment.

BB


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Where and how the heck did you get that info?
> This is the 2nd time ive seen someone mention their warehouse move.
> I ordered the 14th and still haven't heard from green-sum.
> It wouldn't bother me so much if all you guys would quit posting they got theirs 3 days after ordering.


I was probably both the posts that mentioned his warehouse move.







I'm buying my monitors from him directly now (outside ebay). So he emails me back pretty quickly all the time.

"Hi,
Item is sent in 2 days after payment received.
BTW, we need to inform you that we have a plan to move our warehouse on Monday.
We expect 1~2 day delay, sorry about that.
We will provide tracking number after then, Thank you."


----------



## SkyPC

When did he sent you this mail? Saying that it will take 2 days.

Today ?









And how can you buy a monitor outside Ebay, and why should you? To get less buyers protection, is that the goal ?


----------



## cruisx

damn, its been at the bloody local fedex facility the whole day, I forgot i could just og there direct to pick it up, oh well will be here tomorrow. Thats very good, dcsamsung total ship time 2 days to Canada.
The only reason its not delivered today is cause the truck guy left early before the package arrived at the depo.

Any idea how much he is paying for shipping? I mean 2 days to ship a 10kg item from korea to canada is very impressive.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> heh.
> I have a 5770, a U2412 and my BIOS and wondows boot comes up on the U2412 until the drivers load, then it shuts off the 2412 and shows the initial login on the Yamakasi.
> I wonder if its a port thing and I should try switching the cables - maybe this weekend I'll run the experiment.
> BB


Your Yamakasi is set as the primary monitor; the login screen will only display on your primary.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Well, actually...
> I found the monitor will display a usable picture at a lower resolution as long as the horizontal resolution stays at 2560, although part of the next frame is shown at the bottom of the screen. Doing that, I was able to get 2560x1000 @ 122 Hz. I could not get 125 Hz at any resolution, so it seems like the timing controller was actually designed to handle 120 Hz and not much more.


Thanks again, wonderful discovery.

Max res at 120hz, GPU scaling does not get rid of 2nd frame.









Top part is very usable, bottom frame has deep scanlines at 120hz.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> When did he sent you this mail? Saying that it will take 2 days.
> Today ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And how can you buy a monitor outside Ebay, and why should you? To get less buyers protection, is that the goal ?


2 days ago. on the 18th. And you really shouldn't buy it outside eBay unless you trust the person. I still paid through Paypal though so I have some protection. And he knows it'll really hurt his Overclock.net sales if he ****s with any of us. I made sure of that.









But no the main reason is 2 parts. 1) He didn't have a listing for perfect-panels then. 2) He also gave me a discount as he doesn't have to pay the eBay fees. So...I'm all good with it.


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Well, actually...
> I found the monitor will display a usable picture at a lower resolution as long as the horizontal resolution stays at 2560, although part of the next frame is shown at the bottom of the screen. Doing that, I was able to get 2560x1000 @ 122 Hz. I could not get 125 Hz at any resolution, so it seems like the timing controller was actually designed to handle 120 Hz and not much more.


Does that resolution then include AMD cards? Still not fully grasping the implications of the 333 MHz limit.


----------



## necriss

Will likely take another 2-3 generations of graphics cards before ramdac is increased above 400mhz. Mainstream is 120hz @ 1080p which doesn't even use 300mhz pixel clock.


----------



## Tea1023

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> 2 days ago. on the 18th. And you really shouldn't buy it outside eBay unless you trust the person. I still paid through Paypal though so I have some protection. And he knows it'll really hurt his Overclock.net sales if he ****s with any of us. I made sure of that.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But no the main reason is 2 parts. 1) He didn't have a listing for perfect-panels then. 2) He also gave me a discount as he doesn't have to pay the eBay fees. So...I'm all good with it.


what prices are you getting?
are you saying that he's going to ensure you get perfect panels? how many are you buying?

for resale?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tea1023*
> 
> what prices are you getting?
> are you saying that he's going to ensure you get perfect panels? how many are you buying?
> for resale?


Nothing major. $440 for a perfect panel. This is with Tempered Glass and Speakers. Better than the $457 he's charging on eBay without the tempered glass which costs an additional $25. So all in all, saving about $40? I'm sure I could push him for a bigger discount if I'm buying outside eBay for additional units but since I don't know if I'll be doing that yet, didn't bother checking. If Scribby's able to source the parts for 100hz or 120hz, then basically I'd order 20 units, and with the upgraded boards come out at roughly $500/pop for a perfect 2560x1440 100hz-120hz(hopefully?) display and could sell them locally for probably $800-$1000/pop premodified.


----------



## SkyPC

What is perfect panel?

Could you clarify? Zero dead pixels or?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Yeah. So what you'd expect to get if you bought a Dell. The panels vary. They buy them in bulk. For a fee they'll give you the better panels while everyone else gets a random. Problem is that if the number of people who want perfect panels goes up too high, the regular panels will see an increase of bad pixels on them as they'll be the leftovers that didn't make the cut.


----------



## penkiametis

Hello, I am really interested in buying one of these "noname" monitors. I was looking in to HP/DELL/APPLE IPS monitors, but with a such bargain it is a shame to miss a chance to get one for half of the price.







The only thing I am afraid of is the color accuracy and dead pixels. I need a monitor for video/motion graphics work. I`ve read trough all posts in here and saw some complaints that the color is not even, some of the parts are more yellowish and the backlight is bad when viewing dark images. I believe for gaming purposes that is not a tragedy...How bad is that really? would you recommend this monitor for graphic work where color accuracy is a must? or should I stick with pricey DELL U2711
Thank you


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *penkiametis*
> 
> Hello, I am really interested in buying one of these "noname" monitors. I was looking in to HP/DELL/APPLE IPS monitors, but with a such bargain it is a shame to miss a chance to get one for half of the price.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only thing I am afraid of is the color accuracy and dead pixels. I need a monitor for video/motion graphics work. I`ve read trough all posts in here and saw some complaints that the color is not even, some of the parts are more yellowish and the backlight is bad when viewing dark images. I believe for gaming purposes that is not a tragedy...How bad is that really? would you recommend this monitor for graphic work where color accuracy is a must? or should I stick with pricey DELL U2711
> Thank you


Hey. Welcome to the board. The monitors are great. What made them better is the 100hz reported rate (which the new ones are unable to do, unless the club manager, scribby, is able to find the parts so we can replace them ourselves). There is certainly a risk of dead pixels. There is also no warranty. But risk is also kinda fun. Mostly, they've been good. Even the ones with bad pixels are unnoticeable. There is an option to pay an extra $60 now to get a zero-dead pixel panel which would bring the cost to around $460. Still a good deal. However, if you're worried and don't want to take the risk, I'd recommend you buy this instead as it's the same panel, but it's a grade A+ instead of our grade A- panels, and it's from HP so you get actual warranty.









http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242CVF


----------



## larrydavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Hey. Welcome to the board. The monitors are great. What made them better is the 100hz reported rate (which the new ones are unable to do, unless the club manager, scribby, is able to find the parts so we can replace them ourselves). There is certainly a risk of dead pixels. There is also no warranty. But risk is also kinda fun. Mostly, they've been good. Even the ones with bad pixels are unnoticeable. There is an option to pay an extra $60 now to get a zero-dead pixel panel which would bring the cost to around $460. Still a good deal. However, if you're worried and don't want to take the risk, I'd recommend you buy this instead as it's the same panel, but it's a grade A+ instead of our grade A- panels, and it's from HP so you get actual warranty.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242CVF


Yeah and you also a grainy anti-glare coating and probably more input lag.

If you can afford it and the anti-glare and input lag don't bother you, the HP is certainly a bargain.


----------



## penkiametis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *larrydavid*
> 
> Yeah and you also a grainy anti-glare coating and probably more input lag.
> If you can afford it and the anti-glare and input lag don't bother you, the HP is certainly a bargain.


Thank you for the response!
Well I am from Lithuania, and this particular HP ZR2740w costs here 900 usd.You are really lucky with that Newegg thing.







I used to work with Apple cinema desktops, which are using same panel type as those Catleap models, and the picture was very close to calibrated broadcast monitor, can`t complain about the panel and I really don`t mind to pay less... The only thing I am concerned is that backlight bleeding and color shifts.But it looks like it is not that noticeable?. And also in one of the posts in this forum I`ve read about color banding appeared after calibrating the monitor using hardware calibrators with Nvidia cards in windows 7.


----------



## sfsilicon

Post this a while back, but I didn't get a response. Could someone help me with the following question.

1) Does the input lag get effected by the overclocking refresh rate?

2) If it is effected by the input lag could someone help quantify what the improvement would be for 65Hz, 75Hz, 85Hz, 97Hz vs. default 60Hz?

I play 1st person shooters and was intrigued by the option to OC the Catleap. I read the posts with the pictures where fast motion results in a smoother rendering of the motion (more frames). I'm just unclear if you notice any difference in 1st person shooter games when running 60Hz vs 97Hz besides smoother gameplay. From my experience input lag has a higher impact on getting kills vs. a smooth frame rate.


----------



## Derek1387

these things are gorgeous... i might have to buy one...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Post this a while back, but I didn't get a response. Could someone help me with the following question.
> 1) Does the input lag get effected by the overclocking refresh rate?
> 2) If it is effected by the input lag could someone help quantify what the improvement would be for 65Hz, 75Hz, 85Hz, 97Hz vs. default 60Hz?
> I play 1st person shooters and was intrigued by the option to OC the Catleap. I read the posts with the pictures where fast motion results in a smoother rendering of the motion (more frames). I'm just unclear if you notice any difference in 1st person shooter games when running 60Hz vs 97Hz besides smoother gameplay. From my experience input lag has a higher impact on getting kills vs. a smooth frame rate.


Unless you're running a terrible terrible monitor, network lag is probably 10x worse than your input lag. Smoother motion makes it easier to see things and focus on them. So it does make a huge difference in fast action FPS games. Input lag for me is indiscernible with most monitors, including this one. From the moment I push a button, until the action is performed on the monitor is instantaneous. I had a 240hz samsung tv before that had about 60ms-70ms input lag. THAT I noticed quite easily and returned the unit immediately.

Not really directly answering your question...because it doesn't really have "another effect" that you'd notice, other than your eyes being able to see and keep up with everything happening on screen. I play Planetside which is a 12 year old mmofps and going fromm 60hz to 82hz right now I already notice much better performance and ease of play. Can't wait till I get an nvidia card and hit 100hz. For FPS games, don't discount the extra hz. They're awesome.


----------



## tenma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *penkiametis*
> 
> Thank you for the response!
> Well I am from Lithuania, and this particular HP ZR2740w costs here 900 usd.You are really lucky with that Newegg thing.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used to work with Apple cinema desktops, which are using same panel type as those Catleap models, and the picture was very close to calibrated broadcast monitor, can`t complain about the panel and I really don`t mind to pay less... The only thing I am concerned is that backlight bleeding and color shifts.But it looks like it is not that noticeable?.


If you track down the reviews on Playwares, they show the color uniformity of the monitors. From what I remember, there was about a 700K range in whitepoint at various locations when calibrated to 6500K.
Quote:


> And also in one of the posts in this forum I`ve read about color banding appeared after calibrating the monitor using hardware calibrators with Nvidia cards in windows 7.


That is the case with all monitors using Geforce cards. The same thing happens on my HP LP2475w. The banding is mostly noticeable in grey gradients.


----------



## stryker7314

Can you guys with the B series monitor pull up this website http://www.doihaveadeadpixel.com/ and go to the blue page and let me know if you have some obvious scan lines going on. I'm comparing my C and B right now, and the B has some uniformity issues and some very bad scan lines. I checked the B at many refresh rates at stock timings (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80) to see if that was the problem, but the scan lines are always there on the B, and not on the C.

BTW, I have tried 3 dl-dvi cables so far, an active dp-dl/dvi adapter as well and scan lines are still present. Vertical scan lines.

I'm going to swap my 7970 cards to see if its the one in the primary pcix slot.

It would be especially helpful if you do it Scribby because you also have a C and B in front of you.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Post this a while back, but I didn't get a response. Could someone help me with the following question.
> 1) Does the input lag get effected by the overclocking refresh rate?
> 2) If it is effected by the input lag could someone help quantify what the improvement would be for 65Hz, 75Hz, 85Hz, 97Hz vs. default 60Hz?
> I play 1st person shooters and was intrigued by the option to OC the Catleap. I read the posts with the pictures where fast motion results in a smoother rendering of the motion (more frames). I'm just unclear if you notice any difference in 1st person shooter games when running 60Hz vs 97Hz besides smoother gameplay. From my experience input lag has a higher impact on getting kills vs. a smooth frame rate.


Firstly, assuming you get one of these monitors without a scaler (DVI only input) they have pretty much nothing between the video card's output and the panel's display that would add much input lag; the displays thus have correspondingly low input lag already. About the increased refresh rate, this does two things; firstly it improves your framerate, meaing you get new visual updates from the game more often; this obviously helps and is well understood. The second benefit is that at higher refresh rates, the maximal delay before your monitor gets updated with a new frame is reduced as well; for example, with VSYNC on at 60Hz a frame update happens every 16.67ms; this means that the image on screen may be delayed for as much as 16ms, assuming nothing else is delaying extra frames (buffering or render delays in the game engine). The same logic applies even when VSYNC is off, but relates to parts of frames instead of whole frames so it's less clear to explain that way. If your monitor is running at 100Hz, that 16.67ms delay (which again, is a best-case assuming no other delays are stacking up) is reduced to 10ms.

The 7ms difference may not seem like much, but throw a couple extra frames of render delay in there from either game pipeline limitations or poor VSYNC implementations (basically anything DirectX) and suddenly you're looking at a 20ms difference between drawing at 60Hz and 100Hz; combine this with the overall faster update rate (smoother, more fluid animation) and it can be a pretty big difference to a high level player.

Short version: Increases in refresh rate *will* improve your input lag (but not by a massive amount), but depending on you personally it may or may not be a big difference as the input lag is already low on these displays due to the lack of a scaler or overdrive.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Can you guys with the B series monitor pull up this website http://www.doihaveadeadpixel.com/ and go to the blue page and let me know if you have some obvious scan lines going on. I'm comparing my C and B right now, and the B has some uniformity issues and some very bad scan lines. I checked the B at many refresh rates at stock timings (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80) to see if that was the problem, but the scan lines are always there on the B, and not on the C.
> BTW, I have tried 3 dl-dvi cables so far, an active dp-dl/dvi adapter as well and scan lines are still present. Vertical scan lines.
> I'm going to swap my 7970 cards to see if its the one in the primary pcix slot.
> It would be especially helpful if you do it Scribby because you also have a C and B in front of you.


I have a B version and didnt see anything on the blue page, other than blue screen.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Unless you're running a terrible terrible monitor, network lag is probably 10x worse than your input lag. Smoother motion makes it easier to see things and focus on them. So it does make a huge difference in fast action FPS games. Input lag for me is indiscernible with most monitors, including this one. From the moment I push a button, until the action is performed on the monitor is instantaneous. I had a 240hz samsung tv before that had about 60ms-70ms input lag. THAT I noticed quite easily and returned the unit immediately.
> Not really directly answering your question...because it doesn't really have "another effect" that you'd notice, other than your eyes being able to see and keep up with everything happening on screen. I play Planetside which is a 12 year old mmofps and going fromm 60hz to 82hz right now I already notice much better performance and ease of play. Can't wait till I get an nvidia card and hit 100hz. For FPS games, don't discount the extra hz. They're awesome.


I'm using a 40" Samsung LCD (LN40A550) which back in the day was one of the better LCD TVs (2 frames). I started noticing that my counter-strike play started getting worse unless I turned on lag compensation where as with my 20" CRT it would get better by optimizing my network settings and turning compensation off. Luckily I haven't had much time to play lately. Bought the Catleap because of the ability to run higher refresh rate (very familiar how this improves game play in regards smoother play on my old CRT). I just didn't have a reference, since I haven't bought an expensive monitor in years. I paid close to $1k for the 20"CRT flattron and swore I would never pay that much again for a monitor smaller than 40". The catleaps are the right price for me and so I'll be picking up a monitor stand so I can do a dual monitor set-up with the older 40".


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Can you guys with the B series monitor pull up this website http://www.doihaveadeadpixel.com/ and go to the blue page and let me know if you have some obvious scan lines going on. I'm comparing my C and B right now, and the B has some uniformity issues and some very bad scan lines. I checked the B at many refresh rates at stock timings (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80) to see if that was the problem, but the scan lines are always there on the B, and not on the C.
> BTW, I have tried 3 dl-dvi cables so far, an active dp-dl/dvi adapter as well and scan lines are still present. Vertical scan lines.
> I'm going to swap my 7970 cards to see if its the one in the primary pcix slot.
> It would be especially helpful if you do it Scribby because you also have a C and B in front of you.


Have you OC'd your video card? May be causing issues. Other than that, I'd try the latest beta drivers just to see if it makes a difference. I'd also try uninstalling anything like powerstrip. And try booting into safemode to see if the problem still exists. It'll help narrow down what could be causing it.

Other than showing me where my 2 or 3 dead pixels were the page showed nothing odd on my display.


----------



## r506

.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Short version: Increases in refresh rate *will* improve your input lag (but not by a massive amount), but depending on you personally it may or may not be a big difference as the input lag is already low on these displays due to the lack of a scaler or overdrive.


Thanks for the detailed reply. I got the SE version without scaler. So I think I am good for now and just OC the screen to 65Hz. Still trying to decide if I should pay for the board upgrade if it becomes available.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Thanks for the detailed reply. I got the SE version without scaler. So I think I am good for now and just OC the screen to 65Hz. Still trying to decide if I should pay for the board upgrade if it becomes available.


115% yes. =) Well worth it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r506*
> 
> I posted this before on page 111, but does anyone know why a monitor would do this?


Video didn't describe much. Seems to me that the light turned on in your room, and the monitor went haywire. That shouldn't happen. You could try covering up the light sensor in the bottom-left of the monitor panel with some black electrical tape to see if it fixes it. Other than that, really not sure what to tell ya.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Thanks for the detailed reply. I got the SE version without scaler. So I think I am good for now and just OC the screen to 65Hz. Still trying to decide if I should pay for the board upgrade if it becomes available.


One important thing to keep in mind about doing a mild overclock to 65Hz is that while it while produce slightly smoother framerates overall (with a very slight reduction in input lag) it will misalign your refresh rate with standard video framerates of 30fps and 60fps. This means that, for example, watching a 30fps video on youtube will suddenly exhibit a lot more judder, the same way watching a 24fps video on 60Hz would. The holy grail is, of course, to run at 120Hz; this refresh rate is evenly divisible by 24, 30 and 60 fps - resulting in smooth playback of all common framerate formats (at least in north america). Since we currently can't hit that with any halfway decent panel, it's good to keep in mind that your video playback can be worsened by overclocking to uneven numbers; to play 24fps content smoothly you'd want to run at 48, 72 or 96Hz, and to play 30fps content smoothly you'd want to either use 60Hz or 90Hz.

If you're only aiming at improving your gaming experience with no concern for video playback (or don't mind switching between refresh rates depending on what you're doing) then by all means crank it up to whatever is stable!


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r506*
> 
> I posted this before on page 111, but does anyone know why a monitor would do this?


If it's as HyperMatrix describes it (turning on your light causes monitor problems) then it's most probably a bad (noisy) ballast in whatever light you're turning on that's causing interference in the monitor. This may be cured by replacing the offending light, or potentially also by filtering either the light or monitor's power supply (or replacing the monitor's PSU with a higher quality one with better filtering internally)


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Can you guys with the B series monitor pull up this website http://www.doihaveadeadpixel.com/ and go to the blue page and let me know if you have some obvious scan lines going on. I'm comparing my C and B right now, and the B has some uniformity issues and some very bad scan lines. I checked the B at many refresh rates at stock timings (30, 40, 50, 60, 70, 80) to see if that was the problem, but the scan lines are always there on the B, and not on the C.
> BTW, I have tried 3 dl-dvi cables so far, an active dp-dl/dvi adapter as well and scan lines are still present. Vertical scan lines.
> I'm going to swap my 7970 cards to see if its the one in the primary pcix slot.
> It would be especially helpful if you do it Scribby because you also have a C and B in front of you.


I am skiing tomorrow so won't get to it until Thursday.


----------



## r506

.


----------



## kevinsbane

Ok, I've tested my monitor a little more extensively; I definitely CAN get 85 hz on my monitor. I do, however, have to force my video card to max clocks in order to get those frame rates. When I downclock, I drop a lot of frames.

Buzzing is still a problem at higher frame rates, but I think I can live with that for now. It is annoying when it's a quiet room, but the times I use 85hz, it'll be drowned out by gaming.

As for the Do I have a Dead pixel test, I have one dead red subpixel, three dead green subpixels, and two deal blue subpixels. I don't see any where scanlines going at 85 hz. (Although I may be dropping frames)

I ran PixPerAn, and I get about the same pixel response times as my U2312hm. On something simple like PixPerAn, I get full frame rates; otherwise, my HD 5770 just doesn't cut it. Guess that means I need a video card upgrade... hehehe. So on the desktop, I think I'm skipping frames due to the fact that my video card is simply too slow to output the required frames at reduced clocks.

I am going to have to get used to the glossy monitor. My eyes seem to want to focus "behind" the monitor, at the reflection distance. Hm.

For the record, I am running a 2B model, tempered glass, no speakers, ordered Mar 12 from green sum.


----------



## ThingyNess

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yeah. So what you'd expect to get if you bought a Dell. The panels vary. They buy them in bulk. For a fee they'll give you the better panels while everyone else gets a random. Problem is that if the number of people who want perfect panels goes up too high, the regular panels will see an increase of bad pixels on them as they'll be the leftovers that didn't make the cut.


One thing I would worry about is what happens to the monitors that get rejected from the 'perfect panel' QC check? If i was not paying the extra money, I'd much rather buy from a seller who refuses to open them up and test them, since you'll have a much better chance of getting a good panel at random

The sellers that have started testing them aren't going to throw away the ones they open up that have 4-5 dead pixels, they'll just go back on the 'non-perfect' panel shelf to be resold at the regular, non-tested price.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Video didn't describe much. Seems to me that the light turned on in your room, and the monitor went haywire. That shouldn't happen. You could try covering up the light sensor in the bottom-left of the monitor panel with some black electrical tape to see if it fixes it. Other than that, really not sure what to tell ya.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r506*
> 
> The change in brightness was caused by the camera. The display shuts off for a split second, so the camera autochanges the lighting. I didn't know about the ambient light sensor though, I'll have to look at that. .


I opened my monitor today, and there is nothing behind this so called 'light sensor'. Perhaps there was supposed to be, but in these models, there's nothing.


----------



## necriss

The scanlines are always present, more noticeable on high refresh rates. So for intensive photoshop work, swap back to 60hz.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThingyNess*
> 
> One thing I would worry about is what happens to the monitors that get rejected from the 'perfect panel' QC check? If i was not paying the extra money, I'd much rather buy from a seller who refuses to open them up and test them, since you'll have a much better chance of getting a good panel at random
> The sellers that have started testing them aren't going to throw away the ones they open up that have 4-5 dead pixels, they'll just go back on the 'non-perfect' panel shelf to be resold at the regular, non-tested price.


No no...the test is done at the factory by the manufacturer. So the sellers have no idea what you're getting. But what I'm trying to say is that if, for example, you have 1000 monitors and there's a 30% bad pixel rate in these monitors. So anyone who buys them, has a 30% chance of getting a monitor with dead pixels. Now...the manufacture does testing on all these monitors and finds there's a market for them. They charge extra, and sell 400 of their 1000 monitors with the guarantee that they are working perfectly. That means they are now left with the 300 expected bad pixel monitors, and 300 expected good working monitors. Now when they sell the rest of these monitors, the chance to have a bad pixel goes up from 30%, to 50%.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Have you OC'd your video card? May be causing issues. Other than that, I'd try the latest beta drivers just to see if it makes a difference. I'd also try uninstalling anything like powerstrip. And try booting into safemode to see if the problem still exists. It'll help narrow down what could be causing it.
> Other than showing me where my 2 or 3 dead pixels were the page showed nothing odd on my display.


I tried with a second video card and same issue still, also tried safemode and same problem, looks like I will be swapping internals.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> I tried with a second video card and same issue still, also tried safemode and same problem, looks like I will be swapping internals.


Tell the person you bought it from about the issue and tell them you either have to return the monitor, or they'd have to send you brand new controller boards/etc and you'd do the swap yourself. See what they say. Worth a try. Maybe at least they'll give you some $$ back to pay for the boards that scribby will hopefully find soon.


----------



## stryker7314

Hey Scribby, when you switched the internals did you swap the two top pcb boards on the panels? They don't look like they can be removed. Also, how do you remove the cables from the center panel pcb?


----------



## alamone

By the way, PS3 as well as 360 works in 720P for the 2C models with single DVI input.
So if you don't mind swapping cables, you can use the 2C model with your consoles.


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Your Yamakasi is set as the primary monitor; the login screen will only display on your primary.


I get that, just wondering why the bios and boot screen don't show on it, given that with your dual setup of a 2312 and Catleap that the boot screen comes up on your catleap, while my boot screen comes up on the 2412.

Meh, doesn't matter, really. Just a point of curiosity. Moot as I just ordered a 7870 yesterday. Will be able to drive this thing at native for my two flight sims (Aces High and Warbirds).

BB


----------



## stryker7314

Switched panels and my C panel with B internals also had scan lines, and I noticed when I tilted it they went away, itermittently, so I opened it up and made sure all the cables on the dvi board were tight and that all the individual wires were inserted fully, then started her back up and scan lines are all gone. Now I'm running my C panel with B internals because I don't want to switch them back, but they are the same exact panel so shouldn't make a difference.


----------



## bQvle

I have been in contact with one of the Catleap sellers for a few days now, he have spoken with Yamakasi and *IF* the enquery is big enough for the 120hz(100hz gpu limited) monitor they *WILL* start production of them again.

*So please put your vote HERE*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/group-buy-yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed

He was also interested in making a special edition overclock.net monitor. but I stated that 100hz is the main priority, put you thoughts!


----------



## gibsy

I'm being interested with korean monitor..but the bezel seems quite large for eyefinity/surround setup..does anyone tried eyefinity/surround setup yet???if so, can you post some pictures?


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Switched panels and my C panel with B internals also had scan lines, and I noticed when I tilted it they went away, itermittently, so I opened it up and made sure all the cables on the dvi board were tight and that all the individual wires were inserted fully, then started her back up and scan lines are all gone. Now I'm running my C panel with B internals because I don't want to switch them back, but they are the same exact panel so shouldn't make a difference.


so on 100hz you have no scanlines now ?


----------



## Djankie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> I'm being interested with korean monitor..but the bezel seems quite large for eyefinity/surround setup..does anyone tried eyefinity/surround setup yet???if so, can you post some pictures?


I'm going to try an eye-finity setup, but it will be part of an eye-finity setup including the dell 2711 the hazro C something and now this Korean monitor. Will add pics when it arrives. Ordered previous week with geen, but have not received anything yet.


----------



## gibsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> I'm going to try an eye-finity setup, but it will be part of an eye-finity setup including the dell 2711 the hazro C something and now this Korean monitor. Will add pics when it arrives. Ordered previous week with geen, but have not received anything yet.


Nice!! can't wait to see..I'm about to sell my 32'' led samsung hdtv and buy 3x this!!


----------



## HyperMatrix

OMG OMG OMG OMG I JUST EFFING GOT 100HZ on RADEON 6970!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

EDIT: CAPPED OUT AT 101HZ. VERIFIED. I DID IT AND I WAS LIKE OMG WINDOWS MOVE SO SMOOTH BUT I'M PROBABLY IMAGINING ****. THEN I RAN A GAME WITH VSYNC AND DOING 101 FPS. =D OMG!!!!!


----------



## gibsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> OMG OMG OMG OMG I JUST EFFING GOT 100HZ on RADEON 6970!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> EDIT: CAPPED OUT AT 101HZ. VERIFIED. I DID IT AND I WAS LIKE OMG WINDOWS MOVE SO SMOOTH BUT I'M PROBABLY IMAGINING ****. THEN I RAN A GAME WITH VSYNC AND DOING 101 FPS. =D OMG!!!!!


good to hear that my friend


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> good to hear that my friend


Well what's effing weird is that no one's done it on an ati card yet. We thought it was limited to around 82-83hz. But no I'm running it at approx 408mhz ramdac now...If we could unlock/modify/overclock (call it what you will) the ramdac, we could hit the fully 120hz on these things....as the board in them is designed to handle it, but 400mhz ramdac isn't, at that resolution.


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> OMG OMG OMG OMG I JUST EFFING GOT 100HZ on RADEON 6970!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
> EDIT: CAPPED OUT AT 101HZ. VERIFIED. I DID IT AND I WAS LIKE OMG WINDOWS MOVE SO SMOOTH BUT I'M PROBABLY IMAGINING ****. THEN I RAN A GAME WITH VSYNC AND DOING 101 FPS. =D OMG!!!!!


At full resolution? Uh, how?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Yeah at full 2560x1440. Nothing compromised. It was probably cuz of a few things I did. I need to get to bed. I shall detail what I did in the hopes that someone else can recreate this. It's been running perfectly since.


----------



## atmosfar

That's a hell of a tease!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> I get that, just wondering why the bios and boot screen don't show on it, given that with your dual setup of a 2312 and Catleap that the boot screen comes up on your catleap, while my boot screen comes up on the 2412.
> Meh, doesn't matter, really. Just a point of curiosity. Moot as I just ordered a 7870 yesterday. Will be able to drive this thing at native for my two flight sims (Aces High and Warbirds).
> BB


Hm. Boot comes up on both my Catleap and my U2312hm. How are you connecting your U2412m?


----------



## Master Freez

Hmm...What's the maximum refresh rate in 1920x1080? If 120hz, probably we can run 3D with some technology...or not?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> Hmm...What's the maximum refresh rate in 1920x1080? If 120hz, probably we can run 3D with some technology...or not?


Technically while 101hz at 2560x1440 is run at 408mhz dac, 120hz at 1920x1080 can run at 368mhz dac. The problem, I think, is regardless of the resolution you run it at, because it doesn't have its own scaler, it just disables areas around the edges of the screen (ie. turns them black) and shows you the resolution you want inside a frame, basically, and ends up being limited by the overall dac limit that affects 2560x1440 res.

Or in other words...even in 1920x1080, while the numbers add up, I couldn't get it to go above 101hz. Now I REALLY need to get to bed. it's 7am...lol.

Edit #1 Oooh. While playing around, however, I ****ed up and lost my 101hz.







And realized HOW I ****ed it up. And have it working again. Which hopefully means the steps I put up tomorrow will work for you guys. =D

Edit #2 And by tomorrow...I mean today. As soon as I get to bed, and wake up. Lol.


----------



## SkyPC

And what are we supposed to do while you sleep?

Play games on 60hz? You selfish bastard.

wink wink


----------



## PearlJammzz

Keep us posted HyperMatrix!


----------



## finale23

I got my monitor a couple days ago and it's every bit as gorgeous as I have seen in the pictures posted in this thread. This is a great monitor at an exceptional price, I am glad I stumbled upon this forum and thread. My followup question is that how powerful of a video card do I need to get higher framerates. I have had a 250GTS for a couple years and I feel it's struggling to keep up. What would you guys recommend? I am also getting ready for Diabio III come May.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> I have been in contact with one of the Catleap sellers for a few days now, he have spoken with Yamakasi and *IF* the enquery is big enough for the 120hz(100hz gpu limited) monitor they *WILL* start production of them again.
> *So please put your vote HERE*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/group-buy-yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed
> He was also interested in making a special edition overclock.net monitor. but I stated that 100hz is the main priority, put you thoughts!


Curious. Of course, this is not a Witech/Catleap setup since none of the Catleaps are listed at 120hz. I would suggest you change the name of the thread since it is a little misleading unless you are saying that Witech will start production of Catleaps with 2B internals again. I think what the seller is referring to is the more no-name monitor that has been linked before.

This also tells me the parts are available and out there somewhere.

I took another course of action and placed a RFQ for PCBs - now if we could only get our hands on the PCBs gerber files we could have them manufactured ourselves. I am going to ask if one of these companies can reverse engineer these boards.

Still no contact from suppliers - I have heard from plenty of PCB manufacturers though!


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finale23*
> 
> I got my monitor a couple days ago and it's every bit as gorgeous as I have seen in the pictures posted in this thread. This is a great monitor at an exceptional price, I am glad I stumbled upon this forum and thread. My followup question is that how powerful of a video card do I need to get higher framerates. I have had a 250GTS for a couple years and I feel it's struggling to keep up. What would you guys recommend? I am also getting ready for Diabio III come May.


I think the new Nvidias are coming out this month or the next. Best bet for a top of the line card that'll last is to just get the next big thing


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Curious. Of course, this is not a Witech/Catleap setup since none of the Catleaps are listed at 120hz. I would suggest you change the name of the thread since it is a little misleading unless you are saying that Witech will start production of Catleaps with 2B internals again. I think what the seller is referring to is the more no-name monitor that has been linked before.
> 
> This also tells me the parts are available and out there somewhere.
> 
> I took another course of action and placed a RFQ for PCBs - now if we could only get our hands on the PCBs gerber files we could have them manufactured ourselves. I am going to ask if one of these companies can reverse engineer these boards.
> 
> Still no contact from suppliers - I have heard from plenty of PCB manufacturers though!


Changed the headline (so people dont think its a group buy). Catleaps have never been rated 120hz, even though the 2b versions were mounted with the 120hz capable PCB. (dual connected).
It will be Yamakasi Catleap, this guy seems to be working close with Yamakasi and their engineers.

He told me aswell that when the 2C production started, they were mounted with the old PCB aswell, so there should be 2C models out there capable of 120hz (until the card went out of production).

Off-Topic, this might be the next we could see comming:


Pre installed with top of the line CPU/GPU watercooled in Yamakasi case. (hardcore gaming rig, cheep from corea) maybe a "pair" price with monitor included.


----------



## Coltronathon

I've been following the threads here for awhile now but figured I'd chip in. I ordered a q270 multi (with hdmi) from dream-seller for 457.90 on 3/17 and am still waiting for it to ship. I messaged him already and he told me it wouldn't get sent until the 21st (today) with an ETA of around the 28th. I'm glad I impulse bought when I did. That sucker is 499.90 now! These Korean ebayers must have googled "supply and demand." I'll try to post a few pics and answer the polls when I can.

Are the HDMI models in the same boat concerning "B" and "C" board OCing? I'm curious since if this is a less popular model choice then I might still have a shot at getting a "good" one. Also the one complaint that seems to be pretty unanimous is that the stand it comes with sucks. A few quick searches though only reveals VESA wall mounts... do they not make compatible stand alone bases? It would be cool if the OP had a list of some recommended/confirmed mounts people came across.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> I've been following the threads here for awhile now but figured I'd chip in. I ordered a q270 multi (with hdmi) from dream-seller for 457.90 on 3/17 and am still waiting for it to ship. I messaged him already and he told me it wouldn't get sent until the 21st (today) with an ETA of around the 28th. I'm glad I impulse bought when I did. That sucker is 499.90 now! These Korean ebayers must have googled "supply and demand." I'll try to post a few pics and answer the polls when I can.
> Are the HDMI models in the same boat concerning "B" and "C" board OCing? I'm curious since if this is a less popular model choice then I might still have a shot at getting a "good" one. Also the one complaint that seems to be pretty unanimous is that the stand it comes with sucks. A few quick searches though only reveals VESA wall mounts... do they not make compatible stand alone bases? It would be cool if the OP had a list of some recommended/confirmed mounts people came across.


I just bought this one:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2


----------



## kalston

Has anyone tried running it at 120hz (or more) in 720p/1080p? (or any other lower than native resolution)
Not that it would look great but just curious.
(sorry if it has been asked before)

Edit : nvm ToastyX has done it already.


----------



## Shane1244

Has anyone tried 3D?


----------



## cruisx

Just got my monitor guys, problem is that it keeps pulsing on and off? Like desktop pops up then monitor turns off then it turns on and then it turns off keeps goin gin that loop. Light changes from green to red in a loop. Any ideas?


----------



## Coltronathon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruisx*
> 
> Just got my monitor guys, problem is that it keeps pulsing on and off? Like desktop pops up then monitor turns off then it turns on and then it turns off keeps goin gin that loop. Light changes from green to red in a loop. Any ideas?


Is it at regular intervals or is it wildly intermittent? Could be a bad cable or a power supply issue. Also since you have an ATI card you need to make sure it's on dvi-d right? You could try a different computer too if possible.


----------



## cruisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Is it at regular intervals or is it wildly intermittent? Could be a bad cable or a power supply issue. Also since you have an ATI card you need to make sure it's on dvi-d right? You could try a different computer too if possible.


Its norlam interval, i havent been able to use the monitor yet.

1) when i plug it in with no inputs green light flashes, i assume this is normal.
2) when i hook it up to my pc it goes green....desktop flashes......red......green desktop flashes....red etc and keeps doing that every 1 second, in other words impossible to even use the computer atm.


----------



## jbuschdev

A note for anyone using VESA mounting, check the length of your screws.

We just went to wall-mount my old Catleap (sold it to my old man for his Mac) we had it all setup then the power-brick showed no LED and the Catleap showed no power. Took it all apart, removed the wall-mount plate and it was back to working. So I'm thinking the screws were a bit too long and were shorting out against the controller board which is just behind the VESA mounting. Thankfully it works fine now, but there's nothing stopping your screws from going all the way to the controller board.

Just letting people know.


----------



## wedge22

I pulled the trigger and purchased a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE from Red Cap last night, got it for $360 US, I cannot wait to add it to the new man cave.


----------



## cruisx

Still not working, gonna go out and buy another power adapter to see if that s the cause, im pretty sure it is.

On a side note, ill post a full review after but my monitor came with a busted back silver curve thing......it was broke of the top of the monitor...............pics in a few once i get this power/pulsing issue sorted.


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruisx*
> 
> Its norlam interval, i havent been able to use the monitor yet.
> 1) when i plug it in with no inputs green light flashes, i assume this is normal.
> 2) when i hook it up to my pc it goes green....desktop flashes......red......green desktop flashes....red etc and keeps doing that every 1 second, in other words impossible to even use the computer atm.


Guessing, but that sounds like a powersupply issue. A PSU not quite capable of pushing the monitor once its on, but just good enough to make it think its OK (green LED) when not getting a signal.

BB


----------



## cruisx

Im an going to go buy a new adapter, will report when i come back. I dont think its the monitor as it displays something and the green light is on so its most likely the adapter.


----------



## Radeon915

My Catleap came in today, after being stuck in customs for almost a week. I ordered from Dream-Seller.
(A heads-up for other Dutchies wanting to place an order, you'll have to pay about 45 euros for tax and import rights blah blah.)

I offered him 30 bucks extra to make sure I would get one without dead pixels, in the end he actually did it for free. And indeed, it's come in with no dead or stuck pixels, and I can't even detect much backlight bleed at all. Heck, even the stand seems straight. It is wobbly though as others reported, but I can live with that. It's not like my desk moves a lot.

Image quality is vastly superior to my old '22 1680x1050 Sammy now standing sadly in the corner of my room. Colors are much more vibrant and clear, contrast also is lots better.
Playing Skyrim on this was a bit overwhelming at first, actually, but I got accustomed to it quickly enough









Here are some pics I made earlier today:

Packaging looked tight, double bubble wrapped. The box itself had a few minor dents but seemed uncompromised otherwise.


Oh bw, it's a C2 obviously as I can't go above 66Hz.

For me this really is a perfect monitor.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> I have been in contact with one of the Catleap sellers for a few days now, he have spoken with Yamakasi and *IF* the enquery is big enough for the 120hz(100hz gpu limited) monitor they *WILL* start production of them again.
> *So please put your vote HERE*
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/group-buy-yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed
> He was also interested in making a special edition overclock.net monitor. but I stated that 100hz is the main priority, put you thoughts!


As i did in the other thread, its prime-time, im just bumping this one once, I want to make sure i collect as many votes as possible as im going to talk with the guy in the morning!
*So please put your vote HERE*


----------



## Aeta

Received my monitor today, and I am completely confused on how to attach this stand... if anyone could tell me how it would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## DreamTwister

At the bottom of the stand are two flathead looking screws with eh... "thumb handles" is the best way I could describe them. Just unscrew them and attach the bottom circular pedestal to the stand. Then screw them back at the bottom. Easy enough to do without tools. I hope that made sense. English is not my first language.


----------



## Aeta

Oh awesome, I got it thank you Dreamtwister: ), God this monitor is wonderful. Zero dead pixels too. Totally happy with this purchase.


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeon915*
> 
> My Catleap came in today, after being stuck in customs for almost a week. I ordered from Dream-Seller.
> (A heads-up for other Dutchies wanting to place an order, you'll have to pay about 45 euros for tax and import rights blah blah.)
> I offered him 30 bucks extra to make sure I would get one without dead pixels, in the end he actually did it for free. And indeed, it's come in with no dead or stuck pixels, and I can't even detect much backlight bleed at all. Heck, even the stand seems straight. It is wobbly though as others reported, but I can live with that. It's not like my desk moves a lot.
> Image quality is vastly superior to my old '22 1680x1050 Sammy now standing sadly in the corner of my room. Colors are much more vibrant and clear, contrast also is lots better.
> Playing Skyrim on this was a bit overwhelming at first, actually, but I got accustomed to it quickly enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics I made earlier today:
> Packaging looked tight, double bubble wrapped. The box itself had a few minor dents but seemed uncompromised otherwise.
> 
> Oh bw, it's a C2 obviously as I can't go above 66Hz.
> For me this really is a perfect monitor.


Haven't gotten mine yet.
But i noticed in these pics, you don't have the white lettering on the top left and right of the bezel.
I recall someone earlier mentioning they wanted to get rid of those painted on letterings.

Are there different versions of the same model sold by different sellers?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Haven't gotten mine yet.
> But i noticed in these pics, you don't have the white lettering on the top left and right of the bezel.
> I recall someone earlier mentioning they wanted to get rid of those painted on letterings.
> Are there different versions of the same model sold by different sellers?


It's there, just hard to see.


----------



## Renegade05

Anyone know if two 2GB 680s will be enough for all three? I was about to get two 7970s but the leaked benchmarks for the 680s stopped me. I can't be the only one trying this?


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> It's there, just hard to see.


Oh, ok, so they all have it then.
That sucks, was hoping mine wouldn't.


----------



## sh1v

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renegade05*
> 
> 
> Anyone know if two 2GB 680s will be enough for all three? I was about to get two 7970s but the leaked benchmarks for the 680s stopped me. I can't be the only one trying this?


DAYUM! 2 680s should be more than enough dont you think? However, i would use the wait and see approach on the benchmarks from all the major sites before putting down another $1000 for gfx cards


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renegade05*
> 
> 
> Anyone know if two 2GB 680s will be enough for all three? I was about to get two 7970s but the leaked benchmarks for the 680s stopped me. I can't be the only one trying this?


Sorry mate. Not enough vram on 680's for a triple display setup of this nature. Sadly, you'll have to go 7970. Or...wait a few weeks for a 7990.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Sorry mate. Not enough vram on 680's for a triple display setup of this nature. Sadly, you'll have to go 7970. Or...wait a few weeks for a 7990.


Nvidia sais Quad-Display 1920x1080 on a single 680. i bet two of thous suckers will be more then enough for this.
But "Nvidia sais"







I have no idea myself.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Sorry mate. Not enough vram on 680's for a triple display setup of this nature. Sadly, you'll have to go 7970. Or...wait a few weeks for a 7990.


It's probably a safe bet that the answer to the question of how much vram a 3x1 eyefinity configuration of these panels would take is basically As Much As Humanly Possible









Simply storing a *single* raw frame of framebuffer data for 3 of these would take 32MB of space (compared to, say, 6MB for a single 1080P image) - and there are many such frames stored at any one time, not to mention all kinds of other data related to pixel size... you *might* get away with 2GB, but the thing to keep in mind is that with multi-gpu solutions you don't get to add up your total memory; each card needs to store an effectively full copy of all data, so you've only got 2GB effective (not 4GB) - 3GB would be a much safer bet.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Nvidia sais Quad-Display 1920x1080 on a single 680. i bet two of thous suckers will be more then enough for this.
> But "Nvidia sais"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea myself.


4 1920x1080 windows is only 12% more pixels than *2* of these monitors - and when it comes to memory scaling limits adding more cards won't really help you so...


----------



## yannatracker

Anyone know (or guess) if one 2GB 680 would be able to run current games at max settings on one of these monitors?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> Oh, ok, so they all have it then.
> That sucks, was hoping mine wouldn't.


I just have the Yamakasi logo.


----------



## Geglamash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yannatracker*
> 
> Anyone know (or guess) if one 2GB 680 would be able to run current games at max settings on one of these monitors?


Lol one would be plenty.
My 6950s handle everything with ease.


----------



## cliztech

im waiting for my catleap to arrive atm but if you's were able to secure 100+ htz versions id get one more at least


----------



## stblazer

When I turned on my monitor this morning, all I saw were vertical multi-colored lines going across the entire screen. Turning it off and back on fixed the problem. I'm starting to have doubts about the quality of these monitors...


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> When I turned on my monitor this morning, all I saw were vertical multi-colored lines going across the entire screen. Turning it off and back on fixed the problem. I'm starting to have doubts about the quality of these monitors...


Are you using the cable provided? My theory is it's a cable issue, not a monitor issue. I'm using the supplied cable and I will get sparkly pixels sometimes, but a restart and massage of cable makes it go away.


----------



## teesee150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Sorry mate. Not enough vram on 680's for a triple display setup of this nature. Sadly, you'll have to go 7970. Or...wait a few weeks for a 7990.


I thought you were going to post how you got 100hz?


----------



## teesee150

I got my Catleap Multi Input in today from Dreamseller. It's fantastic, zero dead/stuck pixels!

Planning on doing an input lag test later tonight if I can clear enough crap off my desk to get my CRT on here as well.


----------



## ispano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teesee150*
> 
> I got my Catleap Multi Input in today from Dreamseller. It's fantastic, zero dead/stuck pixels!
> 
> Planning on doing an input lag test later tonight if I can clear enough crap off my desk to get my CRT on here as well.


Eager to see what your results are!


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teesee150*
> 
> I thought you were going to post how you got 100hz?


Yeah man, what gives, you holdin out on us?


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Or in other words...even in 1920x1080, while the numbers add up, I couldn't get it to go above 101hz. Now I REALLY need to get to bed. it's 7am...lol.


*HyperMatrix* Thank you!

*kalston* Maximum is 101hz for 1080p.

*Shane1244* 3D require 120hz refresh rate, this monitor cannot do this.

*cruisx* I'm not 100% sure, but one monitor which is blinked with red died in less then 24 hours...maybe it's just a PSU problem(

*Renegade05* If you will buy GTX680 4GB Version, i mean two of them, it's will be definitely enough to run 3 monitors even in the games.

*yannatracker* 4 GB version would be. But it's better to have a 2 cards or 2x GTX670 if the price really matter.

*To all*:

Single 1080p monitor & DirectX 11 game = up to 1,5 GB VRAM

Single 2560x1600 = >1,5 GB VRAM.

Games like Crysis 2 & Battlefield 3 require more then 1,5 GB in 2560x1600.

High resolution textures in any game also requires >1,5 GB VRAM.

1080p: 2 MP
1440p: 3,7 MP
3x1080p: 6,2 MP
3x1440p: 11 MP

So...It's better to have 2x GTX680 4GB\ 2x 7970 3GB for Surround\Eyefinity.

3-Way SLi \ 3-Way Crossfire-X is more then enough. 4-WAY Sli will not give any serious plus in FPS


----------



## Master Freez

omg...


----------



## teesee150

I had my Catleap multi hooked up via VGA to an onboard IGP with a Core i5 and it would display 2560x1440. Now that I have it hooked up at home with a Galaxy MDT x4 GTX 570, it will not go over 1920x1080 over DVI-D. I have tried every DVI-D port on the back of the card. I have also tried creating a custom resolution with no results. I'm using the supplied DVI-D cable.

Does anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teesee150*
> 
> I had my Catleap multi hooked up via VGA to an onboard IGP with a Core i5 and it would display 2560x1440. Now that I have it hooked up at home with a Galaxy MDT x4 GTX 570, it will not go over 1920x1080 over DVI-D. I have tried every DVI-D port on the back of the card. I have also tried creating a custom resolution with no results. I'm using the supplied DVI-D cable.
> Does anyone have any suggestions?


Your videocard has only one Dual-Link DVi-I port. Use it.


----------



## teesee150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> Your videocard has only one Dual-Link DVi-I port. Use it.












Don't know what I was thinking on that one. We're back in business


----------



## Renegade05

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Or in other words...even in 1920x1080, while the numbers add up, I couldn't get it to go above 101hz. Now I REALLY need to get to bed. it's 7am...lol.
> 
> 
> 
> *HyperMatrix* Thank you!
> *kalston* Maximum is 101hz for 1080p.
> *Shane1244* 3D require 120hz refresh rate, this monitor cannot do this.
> *cruisx* I'm not 100% sure, but one monitor which is blinked with red died in less then 24 hours...maybe it's just a PSU problem(
> *Renegade05* If you will buy GTX680 4GB Version, i mean two of them, it's will be definitely enough to run 3 monitors even in the games.
> *yannatracker* 4 GB version would be. But it's better to have a 2 cards or 2x GTX670 if the price really matter.
> *To all*:
> Single 1080p monitor & DirectX 11 game = up to 1,5 GB VRAM
> Single 2560x1600 = >1,5 GB VRAM.
> Games like Crysis 2 & Battlefield 3 require more then 1,5 GB in 2560x1600.
> High resolution textures in any game also requires >1,5 GB VRAM.
> 1080p: 2 MP
> 1440p: 3,7 MP
> 3x1080p: 6,2 MP
> 3x1440p: 11 MP
> So...It's better to have 2x GTX680 4GB\ 2x 7970 3GB for Surround\Eyefinity.
> 3-Way SLi \ 3-Way Crossfire-X is more then enough. 4-WAY Sli will not give any serious plus in FPS
Click to expand...

I figured either going for the 4GB version of the 680 or the 6GB version of the 7970 was the way to go. I'm more inclined with two 4GB 680s though. However, does anyone know how long that would take to come out? Thanks for the input btw!


----------



## ToastyX

Just a heads up, I've seen two people report getting a matte version of the catleap from dcsamsungmall:








Picture from: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3372494&perpage=40&pagenumber=89#post401771623


----------



## Master Freez

*Renegade05* nVidia planed to release GK104, GK107 & GK110. One model per month. So...at first we will probably get GTX680 & maybe 670, then other models. Plus TSMC cannot produce enough chips, so will be a shortage for a few months till Samsung & other companys will help with production. The last card should be dual core & 2 GB VRAM per core, which is not good enough for 2560x1440 Surround now.

GTX 680 announcement should be this days.









Plus, if anybody interested, Samsung Galaxy S3 probably will be showed this days too.

*ToastyX* Wow...If the Anti-Glare coating is not as granular as to hurt our eyes, it's a great news!

I have a simple ViewSonic VX2450wm with matte screen without any crystal effect & i'm happy with it


----------



## teesee150

I can make a custom resolutions up to [email protected] on my Catleap Multi, but I can tell it's definitely dropping frames like its still running at 60hz. How can I tell for sure what the max refresh rate is without it dropping frames?

Using the tool here: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433 the monitor doesn't light up all the boxes like it should if it wasn't dropping frames. Also tried Quakelive out and it was AWFUL at 95hz.


----------



## ToastyX

The multi has a different controller, so it probably can't handle anything other than 60 Hz (and maybe 50 Hz for PAL). Most monitors I've used that drop frames will drop frames at any refresh rate other than 60 Hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teesee150*
> 
> I can make a custom resolutions up to [email protected] on my Catleap Multi, but I can tell it's definitely dropping frames like its still running at 60hz. How can I tell for sure what the max refresh rate is without it dropping frames?
> Using the tool here: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433 the monitor doesn't light up all the boxes like it should if it wasn't dropping frames. Also tried Quakelive out and it was AWFUL at 95hz.


I used PixPerAn from Prad link. That showed my max refresh rate at 85 hz when I set it at that.


----------



## xdemi

Nooooooooo - not antiglare! anything but that!

O.T. Could anyone explain to me why 3D doesn't exist for IPS? Anyone? I dunno how 3D monitors work so... I suppose it uses a modified polariser amirtie?


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

Whoa. Whoa. Whoa. Guys.
How much do these cost? And they're IPS? And 2560×1440?


----------



## csm725

$350-450, yes, and yes.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Ok. Sorry guys. There is no 101hz on ati cards. I forgot I had switched to a gtx 580 a couple months back. So there is no hope.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Ok I'm totally kidding. I'll post what I did to get 101hz in a couple minutes. Just going to take a few screenshots and such. It's not scientific. Because I don't know which of the steps I took actually had an affect on the outcome so I'll point them all out, which how likely or unlikely each one is. Going through the steps though, should hopefully lead you to the same results I had.


----------



## cruisx

Update guys- I fixed the blinking issue, it was a faulty power converter wasnt provifing enough power and it all works great now.
Perfect monitor so far very sharp, only used it for about it hr, will use it more tomorrow. Ill also post pics tomorrow showing the monitor +some damages out of the box to the back

One thing though, i plugged in my ps3 in 720p mode and the screen like jitters every few seconds like a movie effect with bad signal to a monitor like a zap and image kinda stutters. Also seeing lots of sparkles when screen goes black in ps3 mode.

Kinda wish i ordered the one with the scaler...But asking an extra ~80$ for it hmmmm.Maybe in a few weeks/ summer time ill order another. My 55' tv works just as fine.


----------



## Spicy61

how long did it take for you guys to receive yours? i ordered mine from green-sum and it's expected to be here from 4/3-4/16.... and i ordered on 3/17. there's a 2-5 days sticker on the ad so i thought i was gonna get this quick but it seems that's not the case.... kind of bummed.


----------



## illli

edit: looks like toasty posted it already on the previous page. should have known, toasty is everywhere


----------



## HyperMatrix

*GUIDE TO HOW I HIT 101HZ ON A RADEON 6970.*

Ok folks. This is by no means scientific. Large parts of it have nothing to do with making 101hz work. In fact, it may be just 1 step required to do it. But this is what I did. And it works. I turned it off and back to normal mode, then back to 101hz several times and it works now. It just...works.

Here's how you do it: Powerstrip. Now...when I first got my monitor, Powerstrip did not allow a higher refresh rate to work. Maybe it's the new version that allows it to work. So all you may need to do, is download the new version of Powerstrip, and Voila. I'll get to that in a second. Here's a list of things I did:

1) Installed demo of latest power strip 2 weeks ago. Didn't work. Uninstalled it.
2) I then tried the Force DVI/HDMI Res/Refresh method using Phoenix and MonInfo (http://www.sevenforums.com/tutorials/7947-force-dvi-hdmi-resolutions-refresh-rates.html) This was a great non-success. Windows 7 didn't seem to accept the created inf as a valid driver for the monitor. So I gave up on that.
3) Did ToastyX's method of using CRU. Had a lot of difficulty but got it working. But ended up working. After exporting the settings, I'd have to unplug my monitor for a few seconds, plug it back in, and the new refresh rates would show up under windows screen resolution/monitor info change. Highest I got it working was with these settings:


Now...I don't know if any of what I did above contributed to somehow unlocking the 101hz potential or if you can just jump into Powerstrip and git 'er dun.

4) I set these settings in AMD's CCC:
- Running AMD Catalyst 12.2
- NO Overclocking of the video card (doesn't mean you can't do it...I only had success with no overclock) So leave "Enable Graphics OverDrive" unchecked for now.
- Set LCD Overdrive ON at 200% (doesn't affect the hz, but makes games/videos better imo....even though the monitor already has some overdrive mechanics in it...you can leave it off if you want)
- Set Enable GPU Scaling at "Use Centered Timings" or "Scale image to full panel size"
- Set "Reduce DVI Frequency on high-resolution displays" (while playing around...sometimes it would work with it off, but it would always work with it on.
- Set Color Temperature Control to "Use Extended Display Identification Data (EDID) as ON. This, if nothing else, automatically fixes that "green tint" you hear a lot of people tallking about.

5) I may or may not have installed an older version of PowerStrip 3.80.625 then imported the attached registry key below (that you should rename to .reg.....though I don't think that matters, tbh) into regedit

regkey.txt 0k .txt file
 THIS IS NOT FOR PIRACY REASONS. THIS DOES NOT EVEN GIVE YOU A WORKING COPY OF POWERSTRIP. AND YOU HAVE TO RUN IT, THEN UNINSTALL IT AND REBOOT YOUR PC. This step likely does NOT EVEN MATTER in the process. But I'm listing all that I did to be safe. You can google search a copy of Powerstrip 3.80.625 on google. It's just a demo so it's not piracy.

6) After uninstalling and installing the latest version of Powerstrip, my screen gave me crazy scanlines. I opened up windows screen resolution changer, and set my refresh from to he 82hz it was set to, to a lower refresh rate. 75hz in my case. Everything looked clear. IT IS FROM THIS POINT FORWARD, ALONG WITH THE SETTINGS IN STEP 4, THAT I BELIEVE ACTUALLY CONTRIBUTED TO HITTING THIS REFRESH RATE. EVERYTHING ELSE IS PROBABLY STUPID. THE FOLLOWING SHOULD WORK FOR YOU: Now exit Powerstrip, then run it again as an Admin. Rightclick the Powerstrip icon in your system tray, go to Display Profiles, and Configure. In the Refresh Rate section, there's a lock symbol. Make sure the button is Pressed In. Then go to Advanced Timing Options. And this is what I have for my settings on that screen:



With the real-time adjustment option on you can fine tune everything. But all I did was enter in the 408 pixel click, hit the up arrow once or twice, clicked in another box, and it updated all the settings including refresh to the appropriate numbers. Once that worked, I hit OK and I was done. The next screen should just look like this: 

Keep in mind that Powerstrip now manages your resolution/refresh rate. So it will not show you the proper refresh rating in the windows resolution change screen. How can you know it's really running at 101hz? Well...windows feel smoother. You can also...run fraps on your desktop and depending on how much movement it is, it'll shoot the framerate up to 101fps (ie. while moving a window erratically across the screen) or running a game with Vsync on and seeing it hit 101fps.

I hope that works for you. Let me know if it does/doesn't and your experiences. And hey...if I got you 101hz on your Radeon card...feel free to rep me.


----------



## Waru

Just a question before I jump on a Catleap Q270 Multi for $490. Is the input lag noticeable? I want to use it for both my main computer monitor and my PS3.


----------



## xdemi

HyperMatrix - you're a god amongst overclockers to FINALLY PROVE that you can OC RAMDAC (I believe subsequent posts of other forums found through google say that it's impossible).

Scribby - post his guide (the RAMDAC part) to the front page?

Hypermatrix - willing to go 'even further beyond' - by that I mean reach 120Hz?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> HyperMatrix - you're a god amongst overclockers to FINALLY PROVE that you can OC RAMDAC (I believe subsequent posts of other forums found through google say that it's impossible).
> Scribby - post his guide (the RAMDAC part) to the front page?
> Hypermatrix - willing to go 'even further beyond' - by that I mean reach 120Hz?


Originally Posted by HyperMatrix

Did the method work for you?
And I've tried 120hz. Just upping the number in Powerstrip doesn't take it any higher than 101hz with a >408mhz ramdac. I tried forcing a change to 1920x1080 resolution with a 120hz refresh rate, which only requires a 368mhz ramdac, but for some reason it has trouble accepting the resolution change. Not sure what it's due to, specifically. Maybe it'd work on Nvidia cards? I won't know until I get my hands on a couple gtx 680's.

As for any references to ramdac oc'ing, honestly the highest I've seen anyone claim to do is about 420 on an nvidia card. I'm not as knowledgeable as ToastyX when it comes to stuff like this.


----------



## HyperMatrix

double post.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I hope that works for you. Let me know if it does/doesn't and your experiences. And hey...if I got you 101hz on your Radeon card...feel free to rep me.


I mentioned PowerStrip before: http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/1250#post_16639892

The problem is PowerStrip has no way of telling Windows or the video driver about the new refresh rate, so not everything works properly. For instance, moving windows around gets choppier because Aero runs at the wrong frame rate unless the multimedia timer resolution is set to a low value, which happens to be the case when Flash is running in a browser. Also, I found if anything tried to change the refresh rate, the video card would blank out and I had to reboot.

The pixel clock you set in PowerStrip might not be the actual value either. PowerStrip let me set up to 500 MHz, but I found the actual rate stopped changing at around 400 MHz. You can double-click the camera icon next to where it says "Custom" to calculate the actual refresh rate. You're probably running closer to 98 Hz. Also, I found PowerStrip can get confused if there are multiple monitors to the point where it won't even change the rate at all.

You don't have to do any of the steps you mentioned except adding 80-85 Hz first, then switching to it before running PowerStrip, otherwise the monitor might not display 100 Hz properly. The problem is PowerStrip adjusts the signal in real time, and the monitor can't seem to handle the signal changing from 60 Hz to 100 Hz, or maybe it's the video card, I don't know.

I was able to use the Refresh Rate Multitool to verify the refresh rate, but it also had the same problem of running at the wrong frame rate unless the multimedia timer resolution is set low enough. I was able to do that and verified that it really was running at 100 Hz using a camera.

Basically, the PowerStrip solution sort of works, but it's not an ideal solution. The ideal solution is to get AMD to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit in the driver when using dual-link DVI and the 288 MHz limit when using DisplayPort so people can use adapters.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> HyperMatrix - you're a god amongst overclockers to FINALLY PROVE that you can OC RAMDAC (I believe subsequent posts of other forums found through google say that it's impossible).


It's not overclocking the RAMDAC. I still couldn't get past 400 MHz.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I mentioned PowerStrip before: http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/1250#post_16639892
> The problem is PowerStrip has no way of telling Windows or the video driver about the new refresh rate, so not everything works properly. For instance, moving windows around gets choppier because Aero runs at the wrong frame rate unless the multimedia timer resolution is set to a low value, which happens to be the case when Flash is running in a browser. Also, I found if anything tried to change the refresh rate, the video card would blank out and I had to reboot.
> The pixel clock you set in PowerStrip might not be the actual value either. PowerStrip let me set up to 500 MHz, but I found the actual rate stopped changing at around 400 MHz. You can double-click the camera icon next to where it says "Custom" to calculate the actual refresh rate. You're probably running closer to 98 Hz. Also, I found PowerStrip can get confused if there are multiple monitors to the point where it won't even change the rate at all.
> You don't have to do any of the steps you mentioned except adding 80-85 Hz first, then switching to it before running PowerStrip, otherwise the monitor might not display 100 Hz properly. The problem is PowerStrip adjusts the signal in real time, and the monitor can't seem to handle the signal changing from 60 Hz to 100 Hz, or maybe it's the video card, I don't know.
> I was able to use the Refresh Rate Multitool to verify the refresh rate, but it also had the same problem of running at the wrong frame rate unless the multimedia timer resolution is set low enough. I was able to do that and verified that it really was running at 100 Hz using a camera.
> Basically, the PowerStrip solution sort of works, but it's not an ideal solution. The ideal solution is to get AMD to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit in the driver when using dual-link DVI and the 288 MHz limit when using DisplayPort so people can use adapters.
> It's not overclocking the RAMDAC. I still couldn't get past 400 MHz.


Works fine for me mate. Up to the 408mhz. After that I noticed it made no change. That's why I left it at 408.


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Basically, the PowerStrip solution sort of works, but it's not an ideal solution. The ideal solution is to get AMD to remove the 330 MHz pixel clock limit in the driver when using dual-link DVI and the 288 MHz limit when using DisplayPort so people can use adapters.
> It's not overclocking the RAMDAC. I still couldn't get past 400 MHz.


Ah k - what about driver modding? Weren't there groups in the past that modded drivers (I believe they modified inf files mainly)? Or is it much more lower-level than that?

And why would AMD place such limits in the first place anyways? Would having 400MHz as nvidia do be beneficial to them?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Works fine for me mate. Up to the 408mhz. After that I noticed it made no change. That's why I left it at 408.


Interesting. I guess your video card can do a little more. I also hit a limit of around 101 Hz but with different timing parameters. Wonder what NVIDIA users can get.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> Ah k - what about driver modding? Weren't there groups in the past that modded drivers (I believe they modified inf files mainly)? Or is it much more lower-level than that?
> And why would AMD place such limits in the first place anyways? Would having 400MHz as nvidia do be beneficial to them?


Unless there's an option already built into the driver (which I haven't found), someone would have to modify the driver on a lower level using a debugger, and that would also break code signing.

They probably put in limits when parsing the EDID so the driver doesn't add invalid resolutions or resolutions that the video card can't handle. The problem is they assumed dual-link DVI is 330 MHz (2x165 MHz) since single-link DVI is 165 MHz, and no other monitor has ever pushed that limit. I'm not sure where they got 288 MHz for DisplayPort, but that happens to be just enough to do 1920x1080 @ 120 Hz with CVT-RB timing parameters.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Hi ive ordered a CATLEAP Q270 SE + tempered glass.
Ive read that some are receiving matte screens?
The only reason i bought this was becouse it was glossy.
How big is the risk for getting a matte?
I ordered on 20th march from green-sum


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaktfarfar*
> 
> Hi ive ordered a CATLEAP Q270 SE + tempered glass.
> Ive read that some are receiving matte screens?
> The only reason i bought this was becouse it was glossy.
> How big is the risk for getting a matte?
> I ordered on 20th march from green-sum


Tempered glass wouldn't be matte, bud. You're in the clear. Grats on the purchase.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Tempered glass wouldn't be matte, bud. You're in the clear. Grats on the purchase.


Thats a relief







How about the chance to get a 2b modell? since most ppl buy without the glass
maybe there's some 2b left?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaktfarfar*
> 
> Hi ive ordered a CATLEAP Q270 SE + tempered glass.
> Ive read that some are receiving matte screens?
> The only reason i bought this was becouse it was glossy.
> How big is the risk for getting a matte?
> I ordered on 20th march from green-sum


I would scan over the exact listing you purchased from, and if you don't get a definite answer that way, I'd contact your seller and ask for sure. If he hasn't shipped it yet, you could save yourself some hassle. Since the tempered glass is just put on top of the normal Catleaps, I would think if there are matte screens floating around, there's a possibility of getting one. This should be put at the top of the page as well, so that prospective buyers can be aware of possibly getting a matte version.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I would scan over the exact listing you purchased from, and if you don't get a definite answer that way, I'd contact your seller and ask for sure. If he hasn't shipped it yet, you could save yourself some hassle. Since the tempered glass is just put on top of the normal Catleaps, I would think if there are matte screens floating around, there's a possibility of getting one. This should be put at the top of the page as well, so that prospective buyers can be aware of possibly getting a matte version.


I wrote an mail to green-sum asking him about this issue. Since the screen hasnt been shipped yet I hope
he will be able to reply before it does.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaktfarfar*
> 
> Thats a relief
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about the chance to get a 2b modell? since most ppl buy without the glass
> maybe there's some 2b left?


Better chance of letting our resident guru, Scribby, source the 120hz (or actual 101hz) panels and do the upgrade yourself. Really really unlikely to get a 2b model. But....I honestly think Scribby has a really good chance at sourcing the parts we need. Keep checking the thread.









And Demented, I honestly can't imagine them putting a glare-prone sheet of tempered glass over top a matte screen. I could be wrong...but for the sake of sanity I hope the manufacturer knows enough to see why that'd be a really really stupid thing to do. I'd bet 99 to 1 that it won't be matte if you get Tempered Glass.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Better chance of letting our resident guru, Scribby, source the 120hz (or actual 101hz) panels and do the upgrade yourself. Really really unlikely to get a 2b model. But....I honestly think Scribby has a really good chance at sourcing the parts we need. Keep checking the thread.


Been reading every day since I found this thread.
Was going to buy the Hazro version of this screen first but since it went out of stock in europe
and also cost 499 euro I was more then happy to find this thread.
Getting that high hz would be so awesome. Im also about to choose a new Gfx for this screen.
7970 or gtx 680 havnt decided yet.


----------



## Demented

Crap, I voted in the PCBs and cables poll but chose wrong. I meant to choose that I'm happy with it just the way it is, but accidentally chose the $100 or less option.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaktfarfar*
> 
> Been reading every day since I found this thread.
> Was going to buy the Hazro version of this screen first but since it went out of stock in europe
> and also cost 499 euro I was more then happy to find this thread.
> Getting that high hz would be so awesome. Im also about to choose a new Gfx for this screen.
> 7970 or gtx 680 havnt decided yet.


Depends what you're going to do with it. If you're only going as high as 2560x1440, the gtx 680 is going to be better for you. Getting to 2560x1600, it's roughly the same as the 7970. And lags behind a bit when you add in anti-aliasing. And if you're going with multi-monitors, the 7970 is your card.. Mainly because it's available in a 3gb version whereas the 680 is just 2gb. So...falls short on memory with high detail settings and high anti-aliasing.

Personally, I'm just going to game at 2560x1440 so I'll be getting 2x 680's. But I know that means I can't go any higher on monitor count or resolution without a drop in framerate.

Here's the best review for one yet:

http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4622/nvidia_geforce_gtx_680_kepler_2gb_reference_card_video_card_review/index1.html

Site is getting bombarded with views atm though.


----------



## Master Freez

*HyperMatrix* GTX580 with 1,5GB and with 3GB is almost reference versions. So GTX680 might be with 4GB VRAM after some time. I personally prefer nVidia cards for all my life.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> *HyperMatrix* GTX580 with 1,5GB and with 3GB is almost reference versions. So GTX680 might be with 4GB VRAM after some time. I personally prefer nVidia cards for all my life.


Yeah out of the 7 leaked launch day models I've seen, however, all have been 2gb so far.







I'm still buying it. TXAA, Cuda, PhysX. Yes plz.









Also...In case anyone cares....I JUST HIT A NEW RECORD.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Depends what you're going to do with it. If you're only going as high as 2560x1440, the gtx 680 is going to be better for you. Getting to 2560x1600, it's roughly the same as the 7970. And lags behind a bit when you add in anti-aliasing. And if you're going with multi-monitors, the 7970 is your card.. Mainly because it's available in a 3gb version whereas the 680 is just 2gb. So...falls short on memory with high detail settings and high anti-aliasing.
> Personally, I'm just going to game at 2560x1440 so I'll be getting 2x 680's. But I know that means I can't go any higher on monitor count or resolution without a drop in framerate.
> Here's the best review for one yet:
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4622/nvidia_geforce_gtx_680_kepler_2gb_reference_card_video_card_review/index1.html
> Site is getting bombarded with views atm though.


Like you im only going to game at 1440p so might go with the gtx680 depends on the price over here in europe vs 7970

Edit: Gratz on the record only 15 more hz


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quick video showing vsync and 105 fps in case there are any doubters. Since this is the highest I think anyone has gotten one of these panels yet.


----------



## ToastyX

It looks like your video card can go a little higher than mine. Mine tops out around 395 MHz, while yours tops out around 408 MHz. The problem is we need 465-485 MHz to hit 120 Hz.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> It looks like your video card can go a little higher than mine. Mine tops out around 395 MHz, while yours tops out around 408 MHz. The problem is we need 465-485 MHz to hit 120 Hz.


Yeah...I'm completely out of ideas on how to go over 105hz though man. An extra 15hz would be so amazing for video smoothness...and even 3D.


----------



## bojinglebells

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Renegade05*
> 
> 
> Anyone know if two 2GB 680s will be enough for all three? I was about to get two 7970s but the leaked benchmarks for the 680s stopped me. I can't be the only one trying this?


the superior memory buffer (3GB vs 2GB) and bandwidth (384bit vs 256bit) will likely have the 7970s trumping the 680s for such a demanding setup


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bojinglebells*
> 
> the superior memory buffer (3GB vs 2GB) and bandwidth (384bit vs 256bit) will likely have the 7970s trumping the 680s for such a demanding setup


I'm not sure even that's enough. Lol. I'd personally wait a couple weeks, get the 7990, and that way you still have the option of adding another 7990 and doing quad-gpu crossfire if you needed to. Which...you probably will.


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yeah...I'm completely out of ideas on how to go over 105hz though man. An extra 15hz would be so amazing for video smoothness...and even 3D.


Where's Scribby with those PCBs? T_T

I want to play this game!!!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> Where's Scribby with those PCBs? T_T
> I want to play this game!!!


We're already running a 120hz capable board. Issue is our vid cards ramdac is locked at around 400mhz which is around 98hz. With a little tweaking I got mine to 105hz because the monitors are capable of it. Our video cards are the limiting factor here, sadly.


----------



## HyperMatrix

FYI guys it was just reported the new gtx 680 can handle a 4k display at 60hz. Which means there may be a chance for 120hz on these monitors with it. If the stores have any stock when I wake up I'll buy one. If one of you grabs one first, please test it and let me know! Thx.


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> We're already running a 120hz capable board. Issue is our vid cards ramdac is locked at around 400mhz which is around 98hz. With a little tweaking I got mine to 105hz because the monitors are capable of it. Our video cards are the limiting factor here, sadly.


I am aware of all of the above, thing is I don't even have the ability to get a B class monitor.

Need the new PCB to even get above 60HZ.


----------



## Master Freez

*HyperMatrix* Unfortunately, there is no straight information about [email protected] modes. Only some posts in Wiki about the capabilities of the ports.

P.S: 3840x2160 monitor costs 38000$ and this is cheapest model i ever seen









I'm really not thinking that adaptation will be fast. Plus, it's not so easy to run games in that resolutions, textures are not ready, VRAM is just basicly good enough, font size will be the small even with the scaling, it's hard to put so many pixels in the small size panels like 30" or 27". About 24 inches...maybe real, but without any ultra big difference, just pure image quality like in iPad 3. Power consumption is also "king size"


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Hi I just got an answer about my question regarding glossy and matte screens from green-sum.

Hi, ********
Your item is approximately Glossy.
Our 2nd bunch of monitors are almost glossy.
99%

Does he mean i have a 99% chance of getting a glossy one or?


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaktfarfar*
> 
> Hi I just got an answer about my question regarding glossy and matte screens from green-sum.
> Hi, ********
> Your item is approximately Glossy.
> Our 2nd bunch of monitors are almost glossy.
> 99%
> Does he mean i have a 99% chance of getting a glossy one or?


That would appear to be the case.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have pics out to PCB suppliers in China - not sure if they can either source them or build them - waiting to hear back. The good news is I finally have a contact at Witech, the Catleap manufacturer! That only took a week. The Witech contact is what has me so excited this morning. Info has been sent over, but the timing is always off since it's getting towards the middle of the night over there.

I understand that an eBay seller is talking about sourcing an OCN-type special monitor - that has its own thread - so there are multiple avenues out there right now. I personally want the PCBs rather than a new monitor (since I won't be buying another) so will keep with the effort to source parts rather than an entire monitor (I posted my skepticism about the prospect of a specialty monitor in that thread already.) As I stated in that thread I contacted the same seller concerning boards and he said he couldn't get them. However, now he wants to spec an entire monitor for OCN and sell that. Seems to me that the margins are much smaller in the PCBs so he wants to go with the larger sell. That also tells me these parts are available once I find the right contact, which gives me renewed hope in finding the parts we need.

I will keep you posted of course!


----------



## atmosfar

That's great Scribby!

Nice vid HyperMatrix. Have you considered trying 1280 x 720 at 120 Hz? It might not look too bad.


----------



## trry

Question, this maybe foolish question but can a single vid card (gtx 560ti) handle 2 of these or 2 requires SLI/crossfire?

Thanks!


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have pics out to PCB suppliers in China - not sure if they can either source them or build them - waiting to hear back. The good news is I finally have a contact at Witech, the Catleap manufacturer! That only took a week. The Witech contact is what has me so excited this morning. Info has been sent over, but the timing is always off since it's getting towards the middle of the night over there.
> 
> I understand that an eBay seller is talking about sourcing an OCN-type special monitor - that has its own thread - so there are multiple avenues out there right now. I personally want the PCBs rather than a new monitor (since I won't be buying another) so will keep with the effort to source parts rather than an entire monitor (I posted my skepticism about the prospect of a specialty monitor in that thread already.) As I stated in that thread I contacted the same seller concerning boards and he said he couldn't get them. However, now he wants to spec an entire monitor for OCN and sell that. Seems to me that the margins are must smaller in the PCBs so he wants to go with the larger sell. That also tells me these parts are available once I find the right contact, which gives me renewed hope in finding the parts we need.
> 
> I will keep you posted of course!


Thanks for the update.

Would you be able to PM me some part information? I actually know a maker of knock off HP motherboards, maybe they can fill us an order.


----------



## votum

I have an issue you guys need to know of!

The vesa holes in the back of the catleap are shallow. If you screw in a vesa mount all the way and then try to move the monitor it will short. Fortunately I shorted mine about 4 times trying to figure out what was going on and it survived







Component quality must be good, but I recommend using washers for your vesa mounts


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *votum*
> 
> I have an issue you guys need to know of!
> The vesa holes in the back of the catleap are shallow. If you screw in a vesa mount all the way and then try to move the monitor it will short. Fortunately I shorted mine about 4 times trying to figure out what was going on and it survived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Component quality must be good, but I recommend using washers for your vesa mounts


This is an issue for sure. Just make sure you are not going more that a 1/2" in or so and you will be fine. The screws for my mounts sit flush with the nut on the back of the monitor shell so I was golden. Good tip!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> Thanks for the update.
> Would you be able to PM me some part information? I actually know a maker of knock off HP motherboards, maybe they can fill us an order.


All the part info is in the first post - if something is missing let me know and I will get you what I have. I have requests out now to 12 Chinese PCB manufacturers and upped my request to 100 boards since there is so much interest on the other thread about getting a 100hz monitor (to get better prices/quicker responses.) Plus, we may be killing these PCBs running so high so having extras for self-warranty is not a bad idea!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trry*
> 
> Question, this maybe foolish question but can a single vid card (gtx 560ti) handle 2 of these or 2 requires SLI/crossfire?
> Thanks!


Do you want to game? I have two running fine on a single GTS 250 at the moment (1 OC 1 non-OC) without issues. It all depends on what you want as the end result. Do you want Ultra settings in BF3? Then heck no that card won't do it (even with a single monitor.) Let us know your goals and we can give you a better assessment.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> HyperMatrix - you're a god amongst overclockers to FINALLY PROVE that you can OC RAMDAC (I believe subsequent posts of other forums found through google say that it's impossible).
> Scribby - post his guide (the RAMDAC part) to the front page?
> Hypermatrix - willing to go 'even further beyond' - by that I mean reach 120Hz?


added.


----------



## Demented

Wow, Scribby. Try not to quad post. Edit an earlier post instead.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Too lazy this morning to multi - tired!


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *votum*
> 
> I have an issue you guys need to know of!
> The vesa holes in the back of the catleap are shallow. If you screw in a vesa mount all the way and then try to move the monitor it will short. Fortunately I shorted mine about 4 times trying to figure out what was going on and it survived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Component quality must be good, but I recommend using washers for your vesa mounts


Thanks sooo much for the info. My mount comes in today and I'll make sure to have some washers handy. + rep for you!


----------



## kevinsbane

Scribby, I noticed that you have a section in your OP about monitor calibration. Have you gotten your calibration to stick through a gaming session? I've got two monitors, a Catleap and a U2312hm, and after calibration, that match each other relatively closely. Without calibration, the U2312hm is way too red and the Catleap has a very yellow tint. After I play a session of SC2, I notice that my calibration is gone and the two monitors now look horrible when placed together, until I manually force the calibration back on (through my calibration software). I'm using a an i1Display2 calibrator and it seems to work well, but the loss of the calibration every time I open a screen drives me nuts!

Is there a way to keep the calibration on all the time?


----------



## Raiden911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> The price on the catleap base model (dvi only) keeps dropping while the multi (hdmi) version keeps rising...


because dream-seller pulled a really risky move, instead of competeing against each on lowing the prices by a buck or whatever, he raised the price to $480 from $427 and that caused the other sellers selling the multi doing the same the thing. I saw that and I was like WTH, can't beleive it worked. Hopefully there will be someone else that can bring more multi brands which could help in lowering the price point. I aint in a rush, for me its going to cost me more than $4xx on the monitor, there's the GPU upgrade that I gotta factor to run this inaddition for gaming...ugh!


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Ok. Sorry guys. There is no 101hz on ati cards. I forgot I had switched to a gtx 580 a couple months back. So there is no hope.


! epic troll sir.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Ok I'm totally kidding. I'll post what I did to get 101hz in a couple minutes. Just going to take a few screenshots and such. It's not scientific. Because I don't know which of the steps I took actually had an affect on the outcome so I'll point them all out, which how likely or unlikely each one is. Going through the steps though, should hopefully lead you to the same results I had.










That was great news for sure, OCNers pioneering all sorts of things with these monitors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have pics out to PCB suppliers in China - not sure if they can either source them or build them - waiting to hear back. The good news is I finally have a contact at Witech, the Catleap manufacturer! That only took a week. The Witech contact is what has me so excited this morning. Info has been sent over, but the timing is always off since it's getting towards the middle of the night over there.
> 
> I understand that an eBay seller is talking about sourcing an OCN-type special monitor - that has its own thread - so there are multiple avenues out there right now. I personally want the PCBs rather than a new monitor (since I won't be buying another) so will keep with the effort to source parts rather than an entire monitor (I posted my skepticism about the prospect of a specialty monitor in that thread already.) As I stated in that thread I contacted the same seller concerning boards and he said he couldn't get them. However, now he wants to spec an entire monitor for OCN and sell that. Seems to me that the margins are much smaller in the PCBs so he wants to go with the larger sell. That also tells me these parts are available once I find the right contact, which gives me renewed hope in finding the parts we need.
> 
> I will keep you posted of course!


Awesome, will be interesting to see how this plays out in the coming months. The thought of an OCN edition monitor is pretty cool


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Scribby, I noticed that you have a section in your OP about monitor calibration. Have you gotten your calibration to stick through a gaming session? I've got two monitors, a Catleap and a U2312hm, and after calibration, that match each other relatively closely. Without calibration, the U2312hm is way too red and the Catleap has a very yellow tint. After I play a session of SC2, I notice that my calibration is gone and the two monitors now look horrible when placed together, until I manually force the calibration back on (through my calibration software). I'm using a an i1Display2 calibrator and it seems to work well, but the loss of the calibration every time I open a screen drives me nuts!
> Is there a way to keep the calibration on all the time?


What card are you using? Are you using Toasty's LUT loader? I don't seem to have that issue with mine at all. My two Catleaps stay the same and the two Samsungs I have don't seem to change either. I have an nVidia card so I am not using Toasty's LUT loader - I am going with Windows. Although I do have banding in the test pic going from white into light grey, the rest of the grey to black is smooth for me.

*Quickie tutorial - right click on your desktop to select Screen Resolution. Then click advanced settings*



*Then click Color Management*



*Add Toasty's color profiles here. Make sure the one you want is showing as default.*



*Then choose ADVANCED and make sure the red box is checked. If it isn't click the blue box, which will take you back to a screen like above and click advanced, then box is clickable.*


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruisx*
> 
> Update guys- I fixed the blinking issue, it was a faulty power converter wasnt provifing enough power and it all works great now.


What did you replace it with exactly?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*
> 
> Whoa. Whoa. Whoa. Guys.
> How much do these cost? And they're IPS? And 2560×1440?


haha, yea they are amazing. I have a crossover myself.


----------



## carmaugh

Hey guys, I ordered my Catleap last week Monday 12Mar evening Europe time from dcsamsung. It got shipped w/ in about 3 hours. I'm guessing it was morning there. It arrived here on 16Mar but wasnt home so I got it Monday 19Mar. No problems through Customs. I had to pay 23Euros for the "Administrative Fees". Item was marked as a gift.

Monitor is in perfect condition. No dead/stuck pixels. This thing is so nice to look at! I mean I have the Asus VG236H and Dell U2312HM(didnt know that it was only 6-Bit IPS), the colour difference between them were minimal but the Dell is sooo slow compared to the Asus. The Catleap is waaay ahead in terms of Colour and DPI. Lag is there but not so much. I measure this by moving a window on the screen. The Asus is really fast but it looks pixelated and colours look like a newspaper.

Ive been using it on some old games or slow paced games. BF3 looks nice but looks bad in the animation. My FPS threshold is about 80 so it is disappointing to find out that this doesnt overclock to 80hz.

Im not sure if this is relevant or interesting to any of you but I have an MSI GT680 laptop that I bought in the US last year and the monitor can overclock up to 82Hz stable. I was able to get it to 90hz but it sometimes gives some problem.

Anyway, im interested in the PCB to overclock the monitors. Thank you guys for the awesome work and research that you are doing.


----------



## alricking

ScribbyDaGreat,

can you update the front page and add additional ways of overclocking the hz? Seem like we getting alot of people posting different ways to achieve higher hz. Would be nice to see all of them in one page. thanks


----------



## alricking

ScribbyDaGreat,

Did you remove Toastyx overclock hz and replace it with the new AMD overclock guide? cuz I went back and only see the new AMD overclock guide but don't see Toastyx overclock for 100hz using nvdia card.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Sweeeeeet. Local computer store has 2x gtx 680's left in stock. They're being held for me now. We'll get to see if anything changes thanks to the new cards. Or if I can at least hit the same 105hz as with the radeon.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat,
> 
> can you update the front page and add additional ways of overclocking the hz? Seem like we getting alot of people posting different ways to achieve higher hz. Would be nice to see all of them in one page. thanks


I will when I get some time later on tonight.

EDIT: Besides I need to stay up to at least 2am since all my PCB contacts send me emails between 12:30 and 2:00 am!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> ScribbyDaGreat,
> 
> Did you remove Toastyx overclock hz and replace it with the new AMD overclock guide? cuz I went back and only see the new AMD overclock guide but don't see Toastyx overclock for 100hz using nvdia card.


Nope - it was never posted there. Just added the AMD this morning. Nothing was in for nVidia.


----------



## Djankie

My tracking status hasn't been updated since sending date (tuesday). Is this something I should worry about?


----------



## alricking

Where's the post you posted long time ago where Toasty showed his overclock to i think 100hz?


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2038085/width/562/height/452/flags/LL
> 
> My tracking status hasn't been updated since sending date (tuesday). Is this something I should worry about?


Are you checking on eBay or usps.com ? I found that eBay was never up to date like usps.com was. EMS is through USPS.

At least that was the case with my shipment from greensum.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> What card are you using? Are you using Toasty's LUT loader? I don't seem to have that issue with mine at all. My two Catleaps stay the same and the two Samsungs I have don't seem to change either. I have an nVidia card so I am not using Toasty's LUT loader - I am going with Windows. Although I do have banding in the test pic going from white into light grey, the rest of the grey to black is smooth for me.
> 
> *Quickie tutorial - right click on your desktop to select Screen Resolution. Then click advanced settings*


The problem with windows LUT loader is as soon as you start up a game or full screen app it will just reset the LUT to its default and you will lose your calibration. I would recommend this lut loader instead: http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp#downloads

It's lightweight, sits in the system tray and enforces the LUT at all times. Also it stores the LUT as a small file so you can edit the LUT manually in a hex editor so you can tweak your shadow detail if needed (sometimes you lose the bottom few shades in calibration due to rounding errors).


----------



## sonicBlue

For 2C owners, is there any possibility in using this program to flash the display's EEPROM via EDID to allow higher refresh rate? In particular this paragraph caught my attention:
Quote:


> "softMCCS is the first tool in the world capable of flashing a display's EEPROM entirely through the use of software alone. Provided there is no hardware write-protection, jigs and other programming fixtures are no longer required to update the EDID."


In particular, bytes 38-53 "vertical frequency" and bytes 54-71 under "Detailed timing descriptor":

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_display_identification_data#EDID_1.3_data_format


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> 
> 
> My tracking status hasn't been updated since sending date (tuesday). Is this something I should worry about?


Mine didn't show much progress, then I looked it up at Track Trace and saw it was making good progress.

Looked yours up (EG108647632KR) and it's currently at the air carrier in Incheon. Probably will fly out in the next comming days and there it will also tell you the flight number. You'll literally be able to track the flight.. I mean literally (current altitude/airspeed and plane type!)


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hey Guys.

I plan on buying 3 Catleap, but do you think I should stay with only one if I only have a tri-fire setup 6970

I think I should stick with 3 x 24" monitors instead and 1200p resolution

What do you guys think, I need your advice!?!?!


----------



## erocker

Got my Ergotron MX desk mount installed today. LOVE IT!


----------



## Phantom123

I have a question. I just bought a PC Bank View 3 monitor and what are you guys using for the power cable? Can I use a regular power cable for the monitor that I have lying around? Or should I use the one thats included?


----------



## alricking

erocker ,

can that arm able to move the monitor forward close to your face and backward beside the up and down?

post the link also where you got that arm from, thanks


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> For 2C owners, is there any possibility in using this program to flash the display's EEPROM via EDID to allow higher refresh rate? In particular this paragraph caught my attention:
> In particular, bytes 38-53 "vertical frequency" and bytes 54-71 under "Detailed timing descriptor":
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Extended_display_identification_data#EDID_1.3_data_format


You may very well be able to edit the EDID info to report a higher monitor refresh rate, but this would simply be doing the same thing that ToastyX's CRU application does anyways. The limitation with refresh rates is a hardware one; the 2C's use an entirely different interface (embedded displayport instead of LVDS) to interface with the panel, and the hardware chosen simply caps out at lower data rates. Even if the monitor reported it could hit higher refresh rates, it simply wouldn't sync and display an image with the 2Cs.


----------



## HyperMatrix

*ANYONE WANNA GUESS WHO IS RUNNING THEIR MONITOR AT [email protected]?????*


----------



## Faster_is_better

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> *ANYONE WANNA GUESS WHO IS RUNNING THEIR MONITOR AT [email protected]?????*


hax


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Faster_is_better*
> 
> hax


One problem I'm trying to work through right now though, is I lose the 120hz when I jump into a game. So in windows, it's doing fine at 120hz. Then when I load a full screen game, it goes back to 60hz until I exit the game again. Weird...I shall play around and report.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> One problem I'm trying to work through right now though, is I lose the 120hz when I jump into a game. So in windows, it's doing fine at 120hz. Then when I load a full screen game, it goes back to 60hz until I exit the game again. Weird...I shall play around and report.


This can be a particularly sticky problem, as lamented by a friend of mine still using a high-end dell trinitron CRT and trying to run games at higher than 60 refresh rates. Sometimes, game engines simply ignore whatever you've set in Windows and run 60 because they assume that's what everybody wants (particularly problematic with especially modern titles). Very frustrating. I think part of what helped him in these scenarios was to literally remove the 60Hz EDID profiles for his monitor, although this may not apply to your scenario as you're using powerstrip (I think)...


----------



## alricking

HELP

I am looking for am Arm Mount for Catleap..so what should I look for in an Arm mount..what type of VESA mount at the back is the Catleap? ..and usually how much weight should I look for in the Arm mount can handle for Catleap?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> This can be a particularly sticky problem, as lamented by a friend of mine still using a high-end dell trinitron CRT and trying to run games at higher than 60 refresh rates. Sometimes, game engines simply ignore whatever you've set in Windows and run 60 because they assume that's what everybody wants (particularly problematic with especially modern titles). Very frustrating. I think part of what helped him in these scenarios was to literally remove the 60Hz EDID profiles for his monitor, although this may not apply to your scenario as you're using powerstrip (I think)...


Yeah I think you're right. It works at the 120hz in WoW, for example. But 60hz in Planetside. And doesn't load BF3. I'll have to see about removing the native 60hz option so it stops trying to switch to it.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Sweeeeeet. Local computer store has 2x gtx 680's left in stock. They're being held for me now. We'll get to see if anything changes thanks to the new cards. Or if I can at least hit the same 105hz as with the radeon.


Did you hit 120hz with 680's or an Ati card, also if Ati what card and how/what timings?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yeah I think you're right. It works at the 120hz in WoW, for example. But 60hz in Planetside. And doesn't load BF3. I'll have to see about removing the native 60hz option so it stops trying to switch to it.


I'll also check with my friend about what his exact method was to force higher refresh rates in these games. I think for some reason that DX10/11 games were a lot more troublesome than DX9, but I'll let you know what he says.


----------



## atmosfar

HyperMatrix, try downloading Team Fortress 2 (it's free on Steam), and setting the -freq 120 launch option to manually tell the game to use that refresh rate.

You may struggle to get 120 FPS at that resolution, so perhaps try one of Chris's FPS configs - http://www.fakkelbrigade.eu/chris/configs/install.htm

Or if you wanted a smaller download you could try Quake Live and use r_displayRefresh 120


----------



## HyperMatrix

The games are running fine at 2560x1440 in windowed mode, at full 120hz. It's just something about when they go into full screen mode.

This is on the new GTX 680 card. The card itself had the max setting at either [email protected] [email protected], or [email protected] [email protected] I forced [email protected] [email protected] Which I think is what's causing the issue. I think the card tries to revert to its suggested max specs when it tries to full screen a game. -_-

Will be gone for an hour or so. Have to head to work to see if I can find my SLI bridge. Bought 2 of those 680's. Wanna get them working together already.


----------



## votum

Question:

What is the point of overclockign my monitor?

I have the 2B board by the way. GTX 680 will be purchased with IB


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I just heard from bQvle about the possibility of the eBay seller getting us the PCBs. The seller says there are over 1200 PCBs at the factory, but they won't sell them in large numbers.

I called bull**** on this since there is no margin in just selling $20-$30 PCBs - the money is in the monitors so he is clearly holding out on us.

At least this is proving that the PCBs are in fact being produced I just have to get at the right person. I think that is my Witech contact and hope to hear from him soon (probably will around 2am again!)

So for now here's where it stands assuming the seller is not talking complete crap - PCBs, check, cables, check - sell them to us in large numbers - no dice (at least from him.)

We will get them I swear by all that is right and holy!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> Got my Ergotron MX desk mount installed today. LOVE IT!


Ain't that thing a piece of industrial art? My Ergotron MX arm is simply a monster. I love it!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> HELP
> I am looking for am Arm Mount for Catleap..so what should I look for in an Arm mount..what type of VESA mount at the back is the Catleap? ..and usually how much weight should I look for in the Arm mount can handle for Catleap?


It's a VESA 75mm mount. Look for a 10kg arm.

I went overkill with the Ergotron MX (14kg).


----------



## kevinsbane

HyperMatrix, you should go for the title of "First person to do NVidia 3D surround with 1440p IPS monitors".


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> The games are running fine at 2560x1440 in windowed mode, at full 120hz. It's just something about when they go into full screen mode.
> This is on the new GTX 680 card. The card itself had the max setting at either [email protected] [email protected], or [email protected] [email protected] I forced [email protected] [email protected] Which I think is what's causing the issue. I think the card tries to revert to its suggested max specs when it tries to full screen a game. -_-
> Will be gone for an hour or so. Have to head to work to see if I can find my SLI bridge. Bought 2 of those 680's. Wanna get them working together already.


Try running a Source-engine steam game. (Counter-strike, CS:S, TF2, DOD, DOD:S, Dota 2)

Go to steam libary, right click the game > Properties > Set launch options: and type: -refresh 120

it should lock the refresh rate ingame! even if your monitor isn't capable. it should turn black!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> HyperMatrix, you should go for the title of "First person to do NVidia 3D surround with 1440p IPS monitors".


Haha. I'm smart enough to know to wait for some GK110's before even attempting that. 256 bit 2gb cards can't run 1440p surround without pissing me off and making me hate my computer.







But I can probably take the non-surround Nvidia 3d 1440p ips monitor title if there is one.







Since I think I'm the first to do 120hz on a 1440p display? And also have the record for highest refresh rate on 1440p display with an ATI card.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Try running a Source-engine steam game. (Counter-strike, CS:S, TF2, DOD, DOD:S, Dota 2)
> Go to steam libary, right click the game > Properties > Set launch options: and type: -refresh 120
> it should lock the refresh rate ingame! even if your monitor isn't capable. it should turn black!


I think it's more Nvidia doing it than the game doing it. EDID modding would probably be the best bet. But I'll give this a shot when I get back home. Just at the office picking up my motherboard's SLI cable.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> The problem with windows LUT loader is as soon as you start up a game or full screen app it will just reset the LUT to its default and you will lose your calibration. I would recommend this lut loader instead: http://www.hex2bit.com/products/product_mcw.asp#downloads


Can this handle multiple monitors? I couldn't find anything that would do it.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

GAH! It takes a minimum of three emails to explain what I need to these suppliers! If only I had an English to Korean email translator that would be perfect. I think I am getting closer, but who knows?


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Got my Catleap SE today from greensum. Ordered on Sunday 3/11 but only shipped 3/15. Still haven't checked the serial is a 2C3. Haven't had a chance to unpack it yet to check it out. The monitor came large EMSbox, with two smaller ones wedged on each side. No bubble wrap except as a topper and below. Hope the monitor survived the shipment. No obvious damage on the outside.
> 
> Quick update. Looks like the monitor is perfect and no deadpixels.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Next steps are to play with calibration and ordered this monoprice stand since I have no more space on my desk.


Finally got the stand and monitor hooked up. The stand currently has a slight tilt to the right, any suggestions how to compensate that?


Some shots of the disassembled panel and boards.





Box and packaging.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yeah I think you're right. It works at the 120hz in WoW, for example. But 60hz in Planetside. And doesn't load BF3. I'll have to see about removing the native 60hz option so it stops trying to switch to it.


I got a reply back from my buddy; as I expected he was making sure that the monitor only had one refresh rate available at a given resolution so that the game was forced to use that refresh rate if you selected that particular resolution. Since he was on a CRT he was using Phoenix to add EDID entries (actually, he overwrote stupid ones like 1280x1024) to add new resolutions that the monitor supported but weren't in the EDID table at all, and he only added a single entry at the desired refresh rate. For these monitors, we'd need to remove the 60Hz profile once we'd found another higher one that worked well, but CRU should in theory suffice for this (or you can probably do it through custom resolutions on nvidia, although I've never played around with that to find out if you can remove/replace existing entries...)


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I got a reply back from my buddy; as I expected he was making sure that the monitor only had one refresh rate available at a given resolution so that the game was forced to use that refresh rate if you selected that particular resolution. Since he was on a CRT he was using Phoenix to add EDID entries (actually, he overwrote stupid ones like 1280x1024) to add new resolutions that the monitor supported but weren't in the EDID table at all, and he only added a single entry at the desired refresh rate. For these monitors, we'd need to remove the 60Hz profile once we'd found another higher one that worked well, but CRU should in theory suffice for this (or you can probably do it through custom resolutions on nvidia, although I've never played around with that to find out if you can remove/replace existing entries...)


I've made big progress. It no longer crashes, freezes, or prevents games from launching. And both WoW and BF3 that I tested now load in to 120hz in proper fullscreen mode. Planetside, being a 12 year old game, still refuses to cooperate and reverts to 60hz in full screen, or 120hz if you switch to fullscreen windowed mode. Changing EDID entries may resolve that last problem as well.

I should probably mention...to do [email protected]@32bit colour is a 498mhz ramdac. That's...hella over the top. I had to manually set the details because when I put it to automatic, it wound up at like 520mhz and that's likely a large part of the issues I was facing.

Also...at this resolution/hz there are faint scanlines visible. Doesn't bother me. But figure I should let you be aware of it. But if I took a picture with my camera, for example, you wouldn't notice anything. Time to go play around with Phoenix now and see if I can change the suggested native resolution. Though I'm not overly familiar with Phoenix.


----------



## ispano

RefreshForce Freeware

http://www.pagehosting.co.uk/rf/

I've read this works pretty well but didn't have enough time with my CRT (Shell damaged on delivery but funtional) before it was shipped back. My main issue was I had so many monitor .inf files loaded I couldn't figure out which one was my CRT. It pretty much does the same thing by making the OS see only one particular refresh for a given resolution. I was having the same issue with games and custom resolutions.

PS - I just saw there was a program on there too in the Download section called RefreshLock which may be the primary thing to try before resorting to the above posted program.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Anyone have any experience, or know someone with experience, creating a gerber file for PCBs? If we had that I could source these boards and have them in hand in about 2 weeks tops. I am trying to get a set of boards from our eBay contact (the monitor) guy to send out for a gerber file to be made.

I see several programs for creating these, but have no experience in electronics of this type to try and make one. Ideas??? Could we take one that OCs and make our own gerber file from it? I mean, I know it can be done since the PCB suppliers are asking for a PCB to create the file from, but can anyone here do that?

Let me know and pass this request on if possible.

Thanks!


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> The stand currently has a slight tilt to the right, any suggestions how to compensate that?]


Fold a piece of paper/card and slip it under one side of the base? This is like the 5th time I've suggested that and nobody will tell me whether it works. One person put a cup underneath one whole side of the monitor and took a photo of it like that. Why would anyone do that instead of putting something much smaller under the base?? I'm now paranoid that the stand cannot be leveled by putting something under the base.

Catleap ordered 21/3 greensum, shipped today 23/3


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> GAH! It takes a minimum of three emails to explain what I need to these suppliers! If only I had an English to Korean email translator that would be perfect. I think I am getting closer, but who knows?


http://translate.google.com/#en|ko|Sell%20me%20the%20damn%20120Hz%20PCBs!!!


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Anyone have any experience, or know someone with experience, creating a gerber file for PCBs? If we had that I could source these boards and have them in hand in about 2 weeks tops. I am trying to get a set of boards from our eBay contact (the monitor) guy to send out for a gerber file to be made.
> 
> I see several programs for creating these, but have no experience in electronics of this type to try and make one. Ideas??? Could we take one that OCs and make our own gerber file from it? I mean, I know it can be done since the PCB suppliers are asking for a PCB to create the file from, but can anyone here do that?
> 
> Let me know and pass this request on if possible.
> 
> Thanks!


If we end up needing to design our own board I can do it - I've designed my own before and am pretty familiar with the process (I'm an EE - I've done a bunch of custom microcontroller boards, amongst other things; see this custom keyboard controller I designed/etched/populated/programmed for example). Are you hoping to reverse-engineer and reproduce a board equivalent to the DVI board on a catleap? The timing board? We'd need to spec and source chips and components for it too, but if we can't get these any other way I could definitely put some work in and design one myself if we have to. If the boards are simple (2 layer or less, which considering the high frequencies is unlikely) I can probably clone it if I had a board in hand; if it's more complicated I'll need the datasheets for the chips in question and I'll have to do some of my own design (not really a problem either).


----------



## countach

hey guys... another one in the club.
I first heard about these displays an year ago form a friend that lives in korea.
I tried ordering through gmarket but it was no avail... glad that I found this thread and got a display from ebay.
it came in a hugeeeee box today







it's the model with tempered glass/no speakers from green-sum

unfortunately I am having a problem with it. I hooked it to my late 2008 macbook ( NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB)
and the laptop is not recognizing the external display. the display doesn't even light up...
the macbook just displays blue screen briefly as it should when you attach an external display but then nothing happens.
I am using the dvi cable that came with it. could it be something with my display port adapter because it's an oem part?
anyone with a macbook tried this display







? all help is appreciated.


----------



## eron7

Are you using a mDP to D-DVI adaptor? Something like this: http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> If we end up needing to design our own board I can do it - I've designed my own before and am pretty familiar with the process (I'm an EE - I've done a bunch of custom microcontroller boards, amongst other things; see this custom keyboard controller I designed/etched/populated/programmed for example). Are you hoping to reverse-engineer and reproduce a board equivalent to the DVI board on a catleap? The timing board? We'd need to spec and source chips and components for it too, but if we can't get these any other way I could definitely put some work in and design one myself if we have to. If the boards are simple (2 layer or less, which considering the high frequencies is unlikely) I can probably clone it if I had a board in hand; if it's more complicated I'll need the datasheets for the chips in question and I'll have to do some of my own design (not really a problem either).


Now I have a question.

If it is possible for us to design a 1440P IPS 120hz monitor, then why are there none on the markets? It was said that selling something like such would cost tremendous amounts of money (I believe a company did release a 120hz IPS monitor, but it was costly). Also I heard LG is actually designing a 120hz/high res IPS, but again, will come at an astronomical premium.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> What card are you using? Are you using Toasty's LUT loader? I don't seem to have that issue with mine at all. My two Catleaps stay the same and the two Samsungs I have don't seem to change either. I have an nVidia card so I am not using Toasty's LUT loader - I am going with Windows. Although I do have banding in the test pic going from white into light grey, the rest of the grey to black is smooth for me.


I am not sure how to use Toasty's LUT loader. I'm running an HD 5770 at the moment. I tried going through the Windows default settings, but every time I exit SC2, it resets my monitor calibration. So my setup shuold be exactly as you described, but I'm still losing my calibration every time I exit. And it only happens when I exit; while running, I have no problems.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Now I have a question.
> If it is possible for us to design a 1440P IPS 120hz monitor, then why are there none on the markets? It was said that selling something like such would cost tremendous amounts of money (I believe a company did release a 120hz IPS monitor, but it was costly). Also I heard LG is actually designing a 120hz/high res IPS, but again, will come at an astronomical premium.


Dunno really. Although other people have said the opposite, I am not so sure we won't damage something OCing these bad boys as we are. There is a reason these are at 60hz (at least I'd like to think so). But, that isn't stopping us from trying to spec the proper parts to get us to 100hz and beyond (if our GPUs will allow us to.) If I can get my hands on another set of PCBs and cabling for the OC version I plan on having it sent directly to one of the PCB makers I have been talking with to get it reverse engineered. They will be able to create the necessary gerber file and parts list then price out the PCBs.

If I cannot get my hands on the PCBs soon, I plan on tearing out the guts of my own OC and sending it over (







I will miss you.)


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Now I have a question.
> If it is possible for us to design a 1440P IPS 120hz monitor, then why are there none on the markets? It was said that selling something like such would cost tremendous amounts of money (I believe a company did release a 120hz IPS monitor, but it was costly). Also I heard LG is actually designing a 120hz/high res IPS, but again, will come at an astronomical premium.


Because technological improvements are released in small increments to maximize profits.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Dunno really. Although other people have said the opposite, I am not so sure we won't damage something OCing these bad boys as we are. There is a reason these are at 60hz (at least I'd like to think so). But, that isn't stopping us from trying to spec the proper parts to get us to 100hz and beyond (if our GPUs will allow us to.) If I can get my hands on another set of PCBs and cabling for the OC version I plan on having it sent directly to one of the PCB makers I have been talking with to get it reverse engineered. They will be able to create the necessary gerber file and parts list then price out the PCBs.
> 
> If I cannot get my hands on the PCBs soon, I plan on tearing out the guts of my own OC and sending it over (
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will miss you.)


Scribby, it's all just video card limitations. Prior to the GTX 680, you couldn't get a video card (at least in recent memory) to run 25601440 at 120hz. The reason this card can do it...is because it can run a 4k display at 60hz. This is new. Which is why it can do it. But our monitors were initially designed to go the full 120hz. Panel can handle it. And manufacturer used 120hz boards. But...since there was no real point in putting in a board that no one can take advantage of, they pulled them (i'm assuming has to do with cost/benefit analysis).

I also realized that I need to buy new power supply because as low power as they claim the gtx 680 is, you can't run 2 of them on an 850w power supply. Though my big honking 590 did fine. -_-


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Scribby, it's all just video card limitations. Prior to the GTX 680, you couldn't get a video card (at least in recent memory) to run 25601440 at 120hz. The reason this card can do it...is because it can run a 4k display at 60hz. This is new. Which is why it can do it. But our monitors were initially designed to go the full 120hz. Panel can handle it. And manufacturer used 120hz boards. But...since there was no real point in putting in a board that no one can take advantage of, they pulled them (i'm assuming has to do with cost/benefit analysis).
> I also realized that I need to buy new power supply because as low power as they claim the gtx 680 is, you can't run 2 of them on an 850w power supply. Though my big honking 590 did fine. -_-


CUUURSSES!!!

I really wished I had gotten in on it when the 2Bs were available. I can't tell you how long I've wanted a 1440p with 120hz....

And my beloved bought me a 680 for my birthday.

Oh well, have a week before the actual day, maybe we'll get those boards.


----------



## siberx

A large part of why this hasn't existed yet is that the companies involved seem to be under a false impression that there's no benefit to a refresh rate above 60Hz except for 3D; somehow this mental block has evolved that just because the screen isn't flickering (as a CRT would at 60Hz) there's no reason to go higher than 60Hz; any old-time gamer who played on a CRT at 75Hz or 85Hz would tell you otherwise.

Now, knowing of this misinterpretation, the only reason a manufacturer feels they would introduce a refresh rate above 60Hz would be if it were doubled to 120Hz, which means you'd need to have enough hardware clout to drive the panel that fast to do 3D while playing a modern game - and we really haven't had the hardware to do that (and still border on not having it) at a resolution this high. The fact is though there's a market for high refresh LCDs for purposes *other* than 3D, and even running a panel like this at 80-90Hz (or running old games very fast) is still quite beneficial.

In addition, high cost of products like this is mostly due to extreme markup because of uniqueness; these Korean vendors appear to have no such hangups, and are willing to sell us the monitors much closer to their own actual cost even if it's an unusual or niche product.


----------



## iLLmAtiCiAn

Just bought one, hope it goes well lol


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Now I have a question.
> If it is possible for us to design a 1440P IPS 120hz monitor, then why are there none on the markets?


Because the response time on this panel is not quick enough for any significant improvement. Compare 100hz on these catleaps to 100hz on Samsung TN, it's not going to be anywhere near as good, and CRT is better yet again.

People seem to be under the false impression that more hz = better. It's not the refresh rate but rather the hold time of each frame that increases motion resolution. When an object moves across the screen and you follow it with your eye, if the image is held on screen for the entire duration of the frame, your eye keeps moving in the direction the object is moving, and blurs it on your retina. This is what causes motion blur, not response time. In order to reduce this you need to reduce the time each frame is held on screen, which is done by either inserting blanking or increasing the refresh rate, but in order to do that you need superfast response times otherwise you are spending too much of the frame's hold time waiting for the liquid crystal to change state.


----------



## stryker7314

Anyone with an overclocked B monitor getting BSOD on startup of BF3 when they run higher than stock res, I get BSOD when I try and start it at 83hz. This is with 7970 crossfire.


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Anyone with an overclocked B monitor getting BSOD on startup of BF3 when they run higher than stock res, I get BSOD when I try and start it at 83hz. This is with 7970 crossfire.


What's your BSOD code?

It's unlikely to be something caused by the monitor.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Anyone with an overclocked B monitor getting BSOD on startup of BF3 when they run higher than stock res, I get BSOD when I try and start it at 83hz. This is with 7970 crossfire.


This is another reason why they probably don't want to make 120hz 1440p because of all the technical issues and nonsupport in games, ramdac's not being fast enough etc.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> What's your BSOD code?
> It's unlikely to be something caused by the monitor.


It's the driver. an the game.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> This is another reason why they probably don't want to make 120hz 1440p because of all the technical issues and nonsupport in games, ramdac's not being fast enough etc.


ramdac is fast enough, was only doing 83hz with ramdac @ 326Mhz, its just bf3 = crap programming + Ati = crap programming = crap stability. Getting ready to sell these and move onto 2x 3or4gb GTX680's when releasesd.

Even team fortress works great at 83hz. Sad.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> It's the driver. an the game.
> ramdac is fast enough, was only doing 83hz with ramdac @ 326Mhz, its just bf3 = crap programming + Ati = crap programming = crap stability. Getting ready to sell these and move onto 2x 3or4gb GTX680's when releasesd.
> Even team fortress works great at 83hz. Sad.


Figured it out, Ati driver + BF3 (at least on 7970 x-fire) do not like to run @ greater than 80hz with 2560x1440, completely stable at 80, once at 81 and above BSOD on startup (I also tested 82 and 83, got bsod also). Anyone else run into this yet?


----------



## atmosfar

Can you notice a difference in TF2 between 60 and 80 Hz?


----------



## esaase

So I get color banding with calibration, if i buy gtx 680? For sure i do not want greenish white... Should i go with 7970? Is that banding issue that bad? Does nvidia's color calibration work better with Linux?

I cant believe this is that hard still... Anyway, Catleap is on its way home


----------



## KaRLiToS

Please someone answer me, I'm about to pull the trigger in a Few minutes on 3 screens, need advice if triple 6970 will handle them

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> I plan on buying 3 Catleap, but do you think I should stay with only one if I only have a tri-fire setup 6970
> I think I should stick with 3 x 24" monitors instead and 1200p resolution
> What do you guys think, I need your advice!?!?!


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esaase*
> 
> So I get color banding with calibration, if i buy gtx 680? For sure i do not want greenish white... Should i go with 7970? Is that banding issue that bad? Does nvidia's color calibration work better with Linux?
> I cant believe this is that hard still... Anyway, Catleap is on its way home


I've calibrated about half a dozen displays with nvidia card and never had any issues with banding. Yes, when you look at an entire gray scale ramp from 0-255 crammed into a small space on the screen that is very hard for a display to do and you will get some banding, and this will be exacerbated by having to throw some shades away in LUT calibration, but it's not something that should be a problem on actual content. At least I've never seen banding anywhere other than gray ramps.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Scribby, it's all just video card limitations. Prior to the GTX 680, you couldn't get a video card (at least in recent memory) to run 25601440 at 120hz.


680 has a 400mhz ramdac like all other cards, correct me if I'm mistaken.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Now I have a question.
> If it is possible for us to design a 1440P IPS 120hz monitor, then why are there none on the markets? It was said that selling something like such would cost tremendous amounts of money (I believe a company did release a 120hz IPS monitor, but it was costly). Also I heard LG is actually designing a 120hz/high res IPS, but again, will come at an astronomical premium.


very clear answers to my question, thank you all.


----------



## blockclock

But apparently the 680 can at least OC the Ramdac to 500mhz, although I lean towards 500mhz Ramdac, have seen no review mention a Ramdac specification.


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Haha. I'm smart enough to know to wait for some GK110's before even attempting that. 256 bit 2gb cards can't run 1440p surround without pissing me off and making me hate my computer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I can probably take the non-surround Nvidia 3d 1440p ips monitor title if there is one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Since I think I'm the first to do 120hz on a 1440p display?


Try playing Trine 2 with nvidia 3D Vision 2 and report back









Apparently Trine 2 looks marvelous in 3D, and I assume with the color advantages of IPS would make it look much more stunning









I'm not sure that necessarily having a computer monitor @ 120Hz is sufficient but some research says that it will work (its HDTV that have the problem apparently)..
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blockclock*
> 
> But apparently the 680 can at least OC the Ramdac to 500mhz, although I lean towards 500mhz Ramdac, have seen no review mention a Ramdac specification.


Confirmed by HyperMatrix and his 120hz monitor run.

Oh and this - http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=1467&start=191

AMAZING, no glasses 3D on the cheap... but cost prohibitive for 27" monitor (unless somebody knows somebody or the community has any ideas...


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Please someone answer me, I'm about to pull the trigger in a Few minutes on 3 screens, need advice if triple 6970 will handle them


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey Guys.
> I plan on buying 3 Catleap, but do you think I should stay with only one if I only have a tri-fire setup 6970
> I think I should stick with 3 x 24" monitors instead and 1200p resolution
> What do you guys think, I need your advice!?!?!


Anyone ????


----------



## pokpok

Hi i have a http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=14980MN3692&vpn=VX2268WM&manufacture=VIEWSONIC
I am overall pretty please. Bought for 200$

Do you think this catleap monitor would destroy mine, if yes please explain i know its bigger and got a better pannel but anything else ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Anyone ????


You cannot Eyefinity with these Catleaps without an active Dual-Link DVI converter (two of them, actually). That's an addition ~$200 cost for triple Catleaps. Personally, I'd stick with what you have right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Anyone ????


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pokpok*
> 
> Hi i have a http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=14980MN3692&vpn=VX2268WM&manufacture=VIEWSONIC
> I am overall pretty please. Bought for 200$
> Do you think this catleap monitor would destroy mine, if yes please explain i know its bigger and got a better pannel but anything else ?


Do you actually use it for 3D? If so, then the Catleap will not allow you to use 3D (yet....). The Catleap has 208% (more than double) the number of pixels of your viewsonic and thus can display a lot more.


----------



## Lovidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Anyone ????


This isn't your typical eyefinity display. You need to look at people running Tri/Quadfire on something like a triple Dell U3011 setup to get a better idea of what FPS you can get. A lot of us are on the same boat as you except the few who have Uber OCed current gen cards under water.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I have 3 x 6970 Under water that I can overclocked pretty badly.

I want to know if its a good idea to buy those screen or Im better of with 24" 1080p screens

PS: I'm all conscious about the 100$ dongles and I need to buy two of them (DVI-D to Mini Display port adapter dongle), my budget is 1500$ and 3 screens plus the dongles give around 1310$


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blockclock*
> 
> But apparently the 680 can at least OC the Ramdac to 500mhz, although I lean towards 500mhz Ramdac, have seen no review mention a Ramdac specification.


I don't think we should call it a RAMDAC - RAMDAC is what you use with analogue monitors, not digital monitors. Wiki even says that current GPUs don't even have a RAMDAC anymore and what is being used is a TMDS.

Simply calling it the pixel clock limit would be much more accurate. Whether the limit comes purely from the drivers or the hardware is another story.
Tbh I have the feeling the limitation was originally there in the drivers because back then GPUs did use a RAMDAC but they simply haven't bothered cleaning up their drivers.
There are so many ANCIENT bugs in both nvidia and ATI drivers...


----------



## Lovidore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I have 3 x 6970 Under water that I can overclocked pretty badly.
> I want to know if its a good idea to buy those screen or Im better of with 24" 1080p screens
> PS: I'm all conscious about the 100$ dongles and I need to buy two of them (DVI-D to Mini Display port adapter dongle), my budget is 1500$ and 3 screens plus the dongles give around 1310$


OK well, I don't know if you've heard of Vega and his mad-scientists builds. But here's his thread on Tri/Quad Fire/SLI performance at various resolutions. Hope this gives you your answer.

http://www.overclock.net/t/903852/3x-30-portrait-6970-cf-eyefinity-vs-580-sli-surround-showdown/0_100


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I have 3 x 6970 Under water that I can overclocked pretty badly.
> I want to know if its a good idea to buy those screen or Im better of with 24" 1080p screens
> PS: I'm all conscious about the 100$ dongles and I need to buy two of them (DVI-D to Mini Display port adapter dongle), my budget is 1500$ and 3 screens plus the dongles give around 1310$


Karlitos it will run them but you will not have optimal FPS im guessing. Depending on the game.


----------



## Master Freez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Please someone answer me, I'm about to pull the trigger in a Few minutes on 3 screens, need advice if triple 6970 will handle them


I already answered to you in another thread with the link to eyefinity test.

Your triple 6970 can run Eyefinity with 3x 1920x1080p monitors only. 3x Q270 is to high for any GPU in the world due to high resolution. You definitely will have 60 fps with the single, but with three of them....it's just not tested by anybody.

Try to search 6970 Tri-Fire tests and reviews with Eyefiinity and BF 3.

3xGTX580 rides 7680x1600, but only in the major games.... Battlefield 3 or Crysis 2 will not be playable, i'm sure almost on 100%


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Master Freez*
> 
> I already answered to you in another thread with the link to eyefinity test.
> ...
> ...
> ...
> i'm sure almost on 100%


Thats why i'm trying to gather the more info I can. But I really appreciated your help on the other thread.

Since a week, I read the whole internet for some valuable information, its hard to find a there is a few where you can't even say if it's credible. Now my strategy is to ask *MANY* questions to the most reliable person available.


----------



## Master Freez

*KaRLiToS* Let's say that you like this monitor, response time and all other specs.

Let's say that you can set just a 1920x1080p resolution for the every monitor in the games by creating ~*5760x1080p* in the Ati Control Panel.

So...you are probably will be able to run every game with playable fps & maybe at 60 fps minimum.

I'm not sure, but people buying just 2x7970 and still trying to play on three screens.

No 100% guarantees, just a reviews & tests results. Personally, I am every day more and more prefer the 3xVG236HE for 120hz and two ports without the input lag, without the stuck pixels. But to each his own.


----------



## sfsilicon

Hi Scribby,

My Catleap is a 2C and has the "Single plug-in (silver tape over plug)" panel PCB type. Ordered mine around the 16th from Greensum.

Will I be able to upgrade this panel with the board swap to allow >65Hz overclocking? It would be great if you could update the OP your board swap experiences (links to the pictures, is it expected that all Catleap will be identical to the 2B models once the swap has happened or will some be left out and if so which ones). The thread grows so fast that it is hard finding a conversation that took place a few days ago.


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Will I be able to upgrade this panel with the board swap to allow >65Hz overclocking?


Yes, if we can convince the manufacturer to sell the 2B PCB separately.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Hi Scribby,
> My Catleap is a 2C and has the "Single plug-in (silver tape over plug)" panel PCB type. Ordered mine around the 16th from Greensum.
> Will I be able to upgrade this panel with the board swap to allow >65Hz overclocking? It would be great if you could update the OP your board swap experiences (links to the pictures, is it expected that all Catleap will be identical to the 2B models once the swap has happened or will some be left out and if so which ones). The thread grows so fast that it is hard finding a conversation that took place a few days ago.


Tell me about it! Yes, yours will be able to do the swap. I have a to do list of OP updates that I will get to in the next few days. I am trying to get some work done and also get REAL work done on my builds, both Tiamat and the Skeley. I have an extra set of PCBs and cables coming from S. Korea in the next few days. I will be researching USA companies that can source a gerber and materials list from these PCBs and the cost associated with that. If it is crazy high, I may just send them back to China since they will do the file/list as part of a run.

From the looks of things there is NO WAY the PCBs and cables shipped will be under the $50 mark so those of you wishing for a cheap 120hz solution are going to be out of luck. I should know more by next week.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone who own a CatLeap or Shimian tells me if the monitor can run fine in 1080p?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I am updating the headers of spoilers - nothing will be populated yet so please don't post that it is empty. I just want them there are reminders so I know what to do later after a couple of bottles of wine!

Oh, I did add a buzzing monitor section. I cannot recall if anyone with a Catleap has a buzzer, but interesting where it may be coming from if you do.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone who own a CatLeap or Shimian tells me if the monitor can run fine in 1080p?


Running ti as a desktop resolution with 6950s, you can tell it's not the native resolution. I don't know any other way to describe it. It runs at that resolution, but it looks 'soft'. I haven't played any games at 1920x1080, but Blu-Rays and DVDs look awesome on my monitor.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Running ti as a desktop resolution with 6950s, you can tell it's not the native resolution. I don't know any other way to describe it. It runs at that resolution, but it looks 'soft'. I haven't played any games at 1920x1080, but Blu-Rays and DVDs look awesome on my monitor.


Agree I just tested it - desktop and internet looks like it does when you CNTRL mouse up to enlarge the text. If you try and CNTRL mouse down to make it look "smaller" it doesn't work. However, Fox Soccer looks great and a movie looked fine to me.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I am updating the headers of spoilers - nothing will be populated yet so please don't post that it is empty. I just want them there are reminders so I know what to do later after a couple of bottles of wine!
> 
> Oh, I did add a buzzing monitor section. I cannot recall if anyone with a Catleap has a buzzer, but interesting where it may be coming from if you do.


I will be investigating my buzzy Catleap this weekend.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> Can you notice a difference in TF2 between 60 and 80 Hz?


Yes, I believe its those first extra displayed 20fps due to extra 20hz that make the smoothness difference from 60 to 120 because the diff from 80 to 120 is negligable though still better. and I'm used to 120hz.


----------



## atmosfar

Thanks for the info. I play TF2 competitively in 6v6, and I had money down for a W2363D but upon discovering this monitor I went off the LG pretty quickly. I know that the LG is almost certainly a better monitor for absolute gaming purposes, but the draw of IPS was too much for me









Now I just need to find the extra €100...


----------



## Radeon915

Had something funny happen to mine today, turned it on again after a short gaming session a bit earlier, and just got some colored lines and then nothing.
Turning it on and off only seemed to get the backlight back on, no picture or anything. Tore the thing apart and dis/reconnected the DP connector and fired it up again and everything worked flawless again, except the power/brightness buttons so I'm probably going to have to do another teardown.. Too bad you can't really do it without leaving marks on the bezel.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeon915*
> 
> Had something funny happen to mine today, turned it on again after a short gaming session a bit earlier, and just got some colored lines and then nothing.
> Turning it on and off only seemed to get the backlight back on, no picture or anything. Tore the thing apart and dis/reconnected the DP connector and fired it up again and everything worked flawless again, except the power/brightness buttons so I'm probably going to have to do another teardown.. Too bad you can't really do it without leaving marks on the bezel.


Only marks I made were the first one or two. After that, I realized that I just needed a firm twist right at a clip.

Good luck!


----------



## NameMakingSux

Here is a question for you guys. If I were to order a crossover would I be able to get one of these pcbs if they become available to OC that? And if we don't know for sure do we speculate that it most likely would?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Only marks I made were the first one or two. After that, I realized that I just needed a firm twist right at a clip.
> Good luck!


If you are doing it right you get no marks.








Make sure you are using a WIDE flat blade screwdriver and pulling the bezel away from the back with decent force so there is plenty of tension. Then once you slide the blade in a small twist is all that is needed to pop the bezel - check the photos closely since if you just rest the blade on the front lip you will mark up the bezel easily. The sides require a little more twist I found. The top and bottom should pull off without using the blade once you get it started.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Here is a question for you guys. If I were to order a crossover would I be able to get one of these pcbs if they become available to OC that? And if we don't know for sure do we speculate that it most likely would?


No idea. I have asked for pictures of the internals for both Achievas and Crossovers and haven't seen any yet (granted I am not out trolling for them either.) If you have seen them, shoot me a PM, no need to clog up the Club with your crappy monitor details!









Just to be clear - here are the four parts necessary to OC (thanks to bQvle for the all-in-one). Working on getting them.


----------



## erocker

Yes, but it doesn't look good. You want pixel for pixel rendering and running one of these monitors at 1080p will make things look muddy.


----------



## SkyPC

I'm a bit unclear on the resolution part.

I ordered my Catleap recently.

And What I want to know I will go about the fact is I want to game on a 1920x1080 resolution with out black borders.

Does this mean that each time I will want to play a game on 1920x1080 I will have to change the monitors resolution from 2560x1440 to 1920x1080 and then launch the game, (Cause as far as I am concerned, if you launch a game and set a 1920 resolution in its settings then you will have the game take up 1920 resolution space and the rest will just be black borders on a 2560resolution monitor)

It would be very cumbersome.

Id like to play games on 1920x1080 since I think I will get to few FPS on a 2560 resolution, and when I exit the game I'd like to have 2560 resolution w/o having to change any settings in desktop preference or anything.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I'm a bit unclear on the resolution part.
> I ordered my Catleap recently.
> And What I want to know I will go about the fact is I want to game on a 1920x1080 resolution with out black borders.
> Does this mean that each time I will want to play a game on 1920x1080 I will have to change the monitors resolution from 2560x1440 to 1920x1080 and then launch the game, (Cause as far as I am concerned, if you launch a game and set a 1920 resolution in its settings then you will have the game take up 1920 resolution space and the rest will just be black borders on a 2560resolution monitor)
> It would be very cumbersome.
> Id like to play games on 1920x1080 since I think I will get to few FPS on a 2560 resolution, and when I exit the game I'd like to have 2560 resolution w/o having to change any settings in desktop preference or anything.


Both 1440p (2560x1440) and 1080p (1920x1080) are 16:9 ratio. You will not get a black border if you set the in game settings @ 1080p while your desktop is @ 1440p, as long as it's a full screen game.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I'm a bit unclear on the resolution part.
> I ordered my Catleap recently.
> And What I want to know I will go about the fact is I want to game on a 1920x1080 resolution with out black borders.
> Does this mean that each time I will want to play a game on 1920x1080 I will have to change the monitors resolution from 2560x1440 to 1920x1080 and then launch the game, (Cause as far as I am concerned, if you launch a game and set a 1920 resolution in its settings then you will have the game take up 1920 resolution space and the rest will just be black borders on a 2560resolution monitor)
> It would be very cumbersome.
> Id like to play games on 1920x1080 since I think I will get to few FPS on a 2560 resolution, and when I exit the game I'd like to have 2560 resolution w/o having to change any settings in desktop preference or anything.


You will be able to play without borders using your Graphics card as scalar.

Try setting your monitor one step below its native resolution ingame. you will get the same with Yamakasi.
it might even look better at 720p, then 1 pixel will be equal to 4px at 2560x1440.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Here is a question for you guys. If I were to order a crossover would I be able to get one of these pcbs if they become available to OC that? And if we don't know for sure do we speculate that it most likely would?


Thanks for the link to the club. Based on the pics and PNs on the PCBs, no this will not work for you guys (now I think!) Someone could be brave, since the panel is the same, and take these parts and stick them in there to see what happens. It looks to me that the first panel in the thread handles the power/brightness and the second panel obviously is the DVI (not pictured here).

Interesting pic - did this guy add this stuff to his board to stop buzzing or is this stock?



Also, these are made by the same PCB peeps who cannot schpell - see desgined:


----------



## SkyPC

Thanks Sxcerino and bQvle, I hope you are right.

I am using a SyncMaster 2232bw right now, and my catleap is still in shipping.

Thing with Syncmaster is that its resolution is 1680x1050 and aspect ratio 16:10.

When I launch a game and apply a resolution of 1280x720, on a full screen I get the black borders.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Thanks Sxcerino and bQvle, I hope you are right.
> I am using a SyncMaster 2232bw right now, and my catleap is still in shipping.
> Thing with Syncmaster is that its resolution is 1680x1050 and aspect ratio 16:10.
> When I launch a game and apply a resolution of 1280x720, on a full screen I get the black borders.


that's due to ratio scaling. i have a 16:10 monitor (1920x1200) and I get the same borders in 1080 movies as well.

If you set the game resolution to something like 1280x800 you will not get black borders either, albeit it's smaller than your native resolution.


----------



## stblazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radeon915*
> 
> Had something funny happen to mine today, turned it on again after a short gaming session a bit earlier, and just got some colored lines and then nothing.
> Turning it on and off only seemed to get the backlight back on, no picture or anything. Tore the thing apart and dis/reconnected the DP connector and fired it up again and everything worked flawless again, except the power/brightness buttons so I'm probably going to have to do another teardown.. Too bad you can't really do it without leaving marks on the bezel.


I wonder if the problem with the monitor displaying colored lines after turning it on is exclusive to the 2C model controller boards. It happened to me twice already, and I've only had the monitor for a week. Luckily for me, turning the monitor off and back on fixes the problem. Is anyone with the 2B model experiencing something similar?


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eron7*
> 
> Are you using a mDP to D-DVI adaptor? Something like this: http://store.apple.com/us/product/MB571Z/A


I guess I need to read more about this stuff. looked up some connector images and it looks like I have DVI-I Dual, not a DVI-D Dual.
hope I didn't fried it or something coz the DVI-D Dual fits in my adapter fine. sounds like I am going to need an "active adapter"?
damn, this will make everything much more expensive...


----------



## Mr Pixel

Would someone with a Catleap mind running a flicker test? Maybe both a 2B and 2C? CharlesK posted results for a Shimian and it flickers at 160Hz which probably contributes to audible buzzing.

Easiest way is to take a photo of the display set to low brightness as shown near the bottom of this article: TFTCentral PWM


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Interesting pic - did this guy add this stuff to his board to stop buzzing or is this stock?


The goop was very probably added to cut down on buzz or whine, which is fairly common with capacitors and inductors that are insufficiently coupled to their surfaces (and running at frequencies audible to humans). This kind of thing is very common on high-powered graphics cards (although less common today than a few years ago) and the usual fix is either a bit of hot glue (if the components don't get too hot) or some epoxy to prevent vibration. Those having buzzing or squealing noise problems from their monitors can likely fix it by opening up the unit and identifying which components are making the noise, then applying something to stop the vibration. Sometimes this is done by the manufacturer, and in this case I suspect it is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I'm a bit unclear on the resolution part.
> I ordered my Catleap recently.
> And What I want to know I will go about the fact is I want to game on a 1920x1080 resolution with out black borders.
> Does this mean that each time I will want to play a game on 1920x1080 I will have to change the monitors resolution from 2560x1440 to 1920x1080 and then launch the game, (Cause as far as I am concerned, if you launch a game and set a 1920 resolution in its settings then you will have the game take up 1920 resolution space and the rest will just be black borders on a 2560resolution monitor)
> It would be very cumbersome.
> Id like to play games on 1920x1080 since I think I will get to few FPS on a 2560 resolution, and when I exit the game I'd like to have 2560 resolution w/o having to change any settings in desktop preference or anything.


If you're running a half decent graphics card you can choose to have the card scale images to your full panel resolution; this means a smaller image with the same aspect ratio (such as 1080p) will fill the whole screen, but as you aren't running a 1:1 (or evenly divisible) pixel ratio the image will be blurry. You can run 1280x720p with a sharp image as it's exactly 1/2 the pixels in each dimension, but anything between that and 2560x1440 will look blurrier than it should. The alternative, depending on how tolerable it is to you (I find it not that bad) is to run a resolution like 1080p with centered timings, which results in a black border around the image but a very sharp 1080p screen. Normally the smaller image size would be a problem, but these *are* 27" displays, so at that setting you're probably working with what's equivalent to a 21" 1080p display or so.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> I wonder if the problem with the monitor displaying colored lines after turning it on is exclusive to the 2C model controller boards. It happened to me twice already, and I've only had the monitor for a week. Luckily for me, turning the monitor off and back on fixes the problem. Is anyone with the 2B model experiencing something similar?


I have both for weeks and haven't seen this behavior.


----------



## stblazer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have both for weeks and haven't seen this behavior.


Here's some background info on the problem: I usually leave my computer on all day and turn off the monitor by pressing the power button before I go to bed. This morning, I pressed the power button to turn the monitor back on, and that's when I saw the vertical multi-colored lines across the screen (for the second time). I'll take pictures the next time I see it happen.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> Here's some background info on the problem: I usually leave my computer on all day and turn off the monitor by pressing the power button before I go to bed. This morning, I pressed the power button to turn the monitor back on, and that's when I saw the vertical multi-colored lines across the screen (for the second time). I'll take pictures the next time I see it happen.


I did the same thing for the first week. No issues. I have been testing sleep mode now putting the monitors to bed after 5 minutes - I have been working from my laptop to keep putting them to sleep and waking them up. So far no issues there either.


----------



## Radeon915

Well, I found the culprit that's causing my problem.. Seems like the connector snapped off the PCB when I inserted the panel back in the casing after reconnecting the DP cable..


(going to try and solder it back on later though)

So yah, be weary of that when you take it apart.. My monitor just got a lot more bare-bones than it already was. Still works though, I just have to pull the power cable out to turn it off.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Yes, anyone taking these apart needs to be careful as there is only room for small Asian hands in there to disconnect and connect these cables! Top Gear Top Tip!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> 680 has a 400mhz ramdac like all other cards, correct me if I'm mistaken.


First one to allow you to run it higher though. In the past most you could do was get them to 420mhz. Mine's running at around 498mhz right now.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Yes, I believe its those first extra displayed 20fps due to extra 20hz that make the smoothness difference from 60 to 120 because the diff from 80 to 120 is negligable though still better. and I'm used to 120hz.


I'd disagree with you. I had my monitor at 82hz for a week. Then when I made the switch to 101hz for the first time on my radeon card, I noticed the difference immediately. Even from 82 to 101 is close to a 25% increase. From 101 or the 105 I had mine at before I swapped cards, to 120hz, there I really can't notice a difference though. I mean, I "know" it's better, but my eyes can't perceive a very noticeable difference as I had going from 82 to 101. Because 100hz is already so awesomely fast.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stblazer*
> 
> Here's some background info on the problem: I usually leave my computer on all day and turn off the monitor by pressing the power button before I go to bed. This morning, I pressed the power button to turn the monitor back on, and that's when I saw the vertical multi-colored lines across the screen (for the second time). I'll take pictures the next time I see it happen.


This morning when I turned the monitor on (pc is on 24/7) the bottom 75% of my screen was messed up. It would only actively process the top 25%. Restarting didn't help. Luckily I have Splashtop on my iPad so even when my monitor shows nothing I can connect and control the PC. I went in. And found out in my scenario it was due to the hz. I dropped it down to 119hz and the portion of the screen that didn't display right went down to just the bottom 15%. Down to 118hz, and now it's working fine. I think because hz aren't stable. They can go up or down 1. And if it's too close to the limit of these monitors, that can happen. I'm considering just running the monitor down at 100hz. It'll be an easier FPS target to hit maxed out, and I know I'm not operating the monitor at capacity.

Please use the edit button instead of triple posting.


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I'd disagree with you. I had my monitor at 82hz for a week. Then when I made the switch to 101hz for the first time on my radeon card, I noticed the difference immediately. Even from 82 to 101 is close to a 25% increase. From 101 or the 105 I had mine at before I swapped cards, to 120hz, there I really can't notice a difference though. I mean, I "know" it's better, but my eyes can't perceive a very noticeable difference as I had going from 82 to 101. Because 100hz is already so awesomely fast.


Even so, you've shown that 100 Hz can be done on AMD, if a bit unconventionally







I think I would be happy around 90 Hz though.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> Even so, you've shown that 100 Hz can be done on AMD, if a bit unconventionally
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think I would be happy around 90 Hz though.


Topped out AMD at 105hz, actually! =D


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> This morning when I turned the monitor on (pc is on 24/7) the bottom 75% of my screen was messed up. It would only actively process the top 25%. Restarting didn't help. Luckily I have Splashtop on my iPad so even when my monitor shows nothing I can connect and control the PC. I went in. And found out in my scenario it was due to the hz. I dropped it down to 119hz and the portion of the screen that didn't display right went down to just the bottom 15%. Down to 118hz, and now it's working fine. I think because hz aren't stable. They can go up or down 1. And if it's too close to the limit of these monitors, that can happen. I'm considering just running the monitor down at 100hz. It'll be an easier FPS target to hit maxed out, and I know I'm not operating the monitor at capacity.


Giving up so easily?







My testing with lower resolutions has found this monitor can accept up to 123 Hz. If you're using automatic timing parameters, 120 Hz = 497.75 MHz, which is too close to 500 MHz. That's probably the problem. Try switching to manual, then drop the vertical total down to 1475. You should be able to get 122 Hz stable that way.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Giving up so easily?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My testing with lower resolutions has found this monitor can accept up to 123 Hz. If you're using automatic timing parameters, 120 Hz = 497.75 MHz, which is too close to 500 MHz. That's probably the problem. Try switching to manual, then drop the vertical total down to 1475. You should be able to get 122 Hz stable that way.


Already did that. I'm finding the Nvidia's harder to deal with than the AMD's. With the radeon, once I set it up for 105hz, it stayed there all the time, in all games/apps, with no issues. Damn nvidia cards.








p.s. It's running at 476mhz.


----------



## MrSpoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> The goop was very probably added to cut down on buzz or whine, which is fairly common with capacitors and inductors that are insufficiently coupled to their surfaces (and running at frequencies audible to humans). This kind of thing is very common on high-powered graphics cards (although less common today than a few years ago) and the usual fix is either a bit of hot glue (if the components don't get too hot) or some epoxy to prevent vibration. Those having buzzing or squealing noise problems from their monitors can likely fix it by opening up the unit and identifying which components are making the noise, then applying something to stop the vibration. Sometimes this is done by the manufacturer, and in this case I suspect it is.


You are correct. The PCB is as I found it, I didn't add the hot glue around the capacitors myself.


----------



## atmosfar

HyperMatrixX, could you elaborate on any issues you encountered with the AMD method? If I can help it I'd like to avoid having to ugprade my GPU (I have a 6850* right now) while still being able to play TF2 at as close to 120 Hz as I dare.

*before you scoff, I currently average 250 fps at 1080P with a suitable DirectX 9 performance config


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> HyperMatrixX, could you elaborate on any issues you encountered with the AMD method? If I can help it I'd like to avoid having to ugprade my GPU (I have a 6850* right now) while still being able to play TF2 at as close to 120 Hz as I dare.
> *before you scoff, I currently average 250 fps at 1080P with a suitable DirectX 9 performance config


The AMD was brilliant....much easier to manage once you got it set up. Didn't have to make any other changes, no glitches, nothing. If you're happy with the performance on your card, no need to change it to get better hz. 105 is what I hit and it's more than enough. Even if you can't hit 105, you should be able to hit 101 which is perfect.


----------



## cruisx

Im getting white dots and an unstable imate @720p when i plug my ps3 with a hdmi->Ddvi cabel. Anyone else have the same issues?


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> First one to allow you to run it higher though. In the past most you could do was get them to 420mhz. Mine's running at around 498mhz right now.


Can you post a screenshot of your 680 doing 120hz ?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Can you post a screenshot of your 680 doing 120hz ?


----------



## xdemi

...3D Vision 2 w/ Trine 2 HyperMatrix w/ Catleap @ 120Hz?
Will it work?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> ...3D Vision 2 w/ Trine 2 HyperMatrix w/ Catleap @ 120Hz?
> Will it work?


I don't have 3d mate. Never had a need for it until I learned I could hit 120hz last night.







So I couldn't really tell ya. Maybe I'll pick some up tomorrow. Wish I saw your post ahead of time. I was just in town at the computer shop to pickup a new 1250w psu.

FYI for anyone interested in getting the GTX 680 and worried about 2gb ram on a 1440p display...running BF3, in full Ultra Mode. FXAA on with 2x MSAA (4 is max), and it's only using about 1.2gb. So the 2GB is more than sufficient for 1 of our displays. If you're triple-monitors or anything like that, wait for the 4gb versions to come out. But otherwise...with our displays...whether you have 4gb or 2gb, won't affect your performance, thanks to FXAA.


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Hm. Boot comes up on both my Catleap and my U2312hm. How are you connecting your U2412m?


At the time, single link DVI.

Now, the new 7870 shows the bios/boot screens on the Yamakasi.

However, I got a sapphire GHz edition 7870 and it only has 1 DVI-D and two Mini-displayport connectors, and I don't have a mini-DP to DP cable for the U2412m and the Yamakasi is therefore the sole monitor on the system.

Cable is ordered, will report when they come in, just for curiosity's sake. Note, I wasn't smart enough to try the Yamakasi by itself on the 5770....









BB


----------



## necriss

edit - trying new 301.10 drivers with 580 no fish. 680 has improved ramdac or the nvidia cp limit doesn't apply


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> At the time, single link DVI.
> Now, the new 7870 shows the bios/boot screens on the Yamakasi.
> However, I got a sapphire GHz edition 7870 and it only has 1 DVI-D and two Mini-displayport connectors, and I don't have a mini-DP to DP cable for the U2412m and the Yamakasi is therefore the sole monitor on the system.
> Cable is ordered, will report when they come in, just for curiosity's sake. Note, I wasn't smart enough to try the Yamakasi by itself on the 5770....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BB


do you mind sharing where you are ordering the display port to dual dvi-d convertor from ?
I also have to buy one and have no idea what is what


----------



## dumpsterj

ordered mine today , now the long wait to get it lol


----------



## HyperMatrix

Some bad news for any potential SLI'ers. While I finally got the one gtx 680 to play nice at 120hz, it turned out I just wasted $270 on a new 1250w PSU because my issue wasn't a power issue. It's that for some reason when you SLI, the pixel clock doesn't like to go above 400, it seems. Probably only increases it on one and causes some kind of out-of-sync issue with the second card. It would cause a 2-3 second screen freeze up on my system every 5 to 10 seconds.

Oddly enough, I couldn't even set a custom refresh rate in Windows 8. But honestly...I'm happy with 100hz. It means I can't 3d, but I'd rather SLI and get 100 fps that I can actually see, than stick to a single card that refreshes at 120hz but only puts out half as much fps.









I'll let you know if I figure anything else out. But it's looking like:

120hz on SINGLE GTX 680 Card
100-ish in SLI GTX 680
105hz on SINGLE Radeon (6970 tested)
??? on Crossfire ATI. Don't have crossfire...so can't test that one. Doubt ATI would have an issue getting to 105hz again, even in crossfire. Just because of the different method of doing it.


----------



## necriss

thanks for the info hypermatrix, will be picking up a 680 soon, out of curiosity what brand of 680 are you using?

I realize all manufacturers are reference designs atm but really like to get 120hz


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> thanks for the info hypermatrix, will be picking up a 680 soon, out of curiosity what brand of 680 are you using?
> I realize all manufacturers are reference designs atm but really like to get 120hz


I'm using an evga. Even more bad news...even the 100hz under SLI...only works at 16million colours, not 32 mil.









Here's why I'm having a lot of trouble getting this all tested. It seems that every time you run into a problem, by selecting a resolution/colour/refresh rate that it doesn't like, you can't continue testing...even if you change settings, the problem sticks. Fortunately I'm running on some fast SSD's but that still gets annoying. Especially since I can't get Powerstrip to work. Won't take me into the advanced timings menu. Card too new or something?









But...bottom line...120hz, 32 bit colour, on SINGLE GTX 680.
And 100hz, 32 bit colour, on SLI GTX 680.

Might be able to get a few more hz out of there, but since I know I can't hit 120, and I'd have to restart my PC another 20 times...I'll stick with the 100hz for now and play some BF3.









Please use the edit button instead of double posting


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Here's why I'm having a lot of trouble getting this all tested. It seems that every time you run into a problem, by selecting a resolution/colour/refresh rate that it doesn't like, you can't continue testing...even if you change settings, the problem sticks. Fortunately I'm running on some fast SSD's but that still gets annoying. Especially since I can't get Powerstrip to work. Won't take me into the advanced timings menu. Card too new or something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But...bottom line...120hz, 32 bit colour, on SINGLE GTX 680.
> And 100hz, 32 bit colour, on SLI GTX 680.
> Might be able to get a few more hz out of there, but since I know I can't hit 120, and I'd have to restart my PC another 20 times...I'll stick with the 100hz for now and play some BF3.


Did you end up solving the problem where some games wouldn't run with 120hz monitors?

The Nvidia thing could be a driver thing (I hope) as 680 is still pretty new.

It really defeats the purpose if we can't run it at 32mil and are forced to 16mil though.

And a Single card will not be able to take advantage of the refresh of the panel in a lot of modern games.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Did you end up solving the problem where some games wouldn't run with 120hz monitors?
> The Nvidia thing could be a driver thing (I hope) as 680 is still pretty new.
> It really defeats the purpose if we can't run it at 32mil and are forced to 16mil though.
> And a Single card will not be able to take advantage of the refresh of the panel in a lot of modern games.


I finally got SLI to run 100hz at 32mil colours. But I've not been able to get it to do 120hz. As for the single cards, almost all games worked fine at 120hz, 32 mil colours. The only game that wouldn't work was Planetside, which is 12 years old. Dirt 3, WoW, and BF3 all worked fine automatically grabbing the 120hz from the desktop set resolution.

After more testing, I couldn't even get to 104hz without running into issues. I think pixel clock boosting on SLI just doesn't work. You can run it up to 400 and it works fine, but beyond that...no way. So far, anyway. Maybe will be resolved in a future driver, but currently...SLI = 100hz (or 101hz?) cap.

Single-carders though...honestly, the GTX 680 is phenomenal.

Please use the edit button instead of double posting


----------



## necriss

have you tried pushing past 120hz ?


----------



## stryker7314

Need help, was doing another b to c display transplant to get my b display back to b hardware. Then I noticed half of it was washed out, then I TOOK THE WHOLE THING APART!


You'll notice my right half of leds have twice as many lit, the ones that are not lit on the left half. Like the signal is inverted to the wrong leds



There's two sticks of LED's and I switched them around to see if it was a faulty stick but it wasn't it was the signal to the right stick that was wrong for some reason. I'm not good with electrical stuff like that so I'm not sure how to solve this problem. PLEASE HELP!!!!

More pics for your viewing pleasure...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> have you tried pushing past 120hz ?


I have not. But ToastyX said he tried it at a lower resolution and was able to get it up to 123hz.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> ...3D Vision 2 w/ Trine 2 HyperMatrix w/ Catleap @ 120Hz?
> Will it work?


I don't think this would be a particularly good experience; the panel takes about 8-11ms to switch frames (tested by a korean reviewer) and at 120Hz you have an 8.3ms frame time; the monitor would spend the entire frame transitioning between the two states (each perspective has a different pixel state) and the end result would be a lot of ghosting and bleed-over between each eye. The extra refresh is useful at producing smoother frames, but when you try and alternate rapidly between two disparate images things will probably go downhill fairly quickly.


----------



## psycheangel

yeayyyy my monitor finally here after waiting 2 week because the problem in korea post (purchase on march 2)

got 2c, gonna buy PCB kit when the item ready for sell









no dead pixel / stuck pixel

hmm what the best way to clean the monitor?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycheangel*
> 
> 
> -snip-
> yeayyyy my monitor finally here after waiting 2 week because the problem in korea post
> got 2c, gonna buy PCB kit when the item ready for sell


Looks good, but aren't you worried with it so close to the edge?


----------



## psycheangel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Looks good, but aren't you worried with it so close to the edge?


yeap i know, well soon im gonna buy monitor stand.
catleap stand is pure bad design !.

note : after further notice, i found 2 red dot pixel in right corner of my monitor


----------



## Talfrey

So I have been meaning to ask, How noticeable is the extra HZ?

Given that the panel isn't intended to go that high, I wonder how much of a difference it really makes.


----------



## sfsilicon

*Input Lag/Video Playback/Overclocking Part 1 of 2* (Click here for Part 2)

Looking for updates on the 100Hz Catleap, check this out.

_Apr-24-2012: Fixed link to 100 Hz Catleap info.

_
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> So I have been meaning to ask, How noticeable is the extra HZ? Given that the panel isn't intended to go that high, I wonder how much of a difference it really makes.


Depending on your use (1st person shooter vs. office/internet) and what your eyes are used to (competitive gaming or AV expert), you will notice a bigger or smaller difference. I asked more from an gaming input lag perspective. From a smoothness perspective, the effects are well know from folks that have used CRTs in the past. See the "60Hz vs 85Hz pictures" for an idea what this looks like. The higher frames that are not multiples of 30 (e.g. 60/120) can cause video judder and tearing, see "Video Playback / Judder".

The lack of a scaler and on-screen display make the monitor cheaper and provides the reduces input lag. This means your external controls are limited to basic brightness buttons and your limited to 720p and native 1440p resolutions. You can display other resolutions and adjust other color parameters, but will need to use your graphic card (e.g. turn on resolution scaling).



Spoiler: Input Lag Comparison Chart









Spoiler: Gaming Input lag



*Gaming Input Lag questions*

Originally Posted by sfsilicon
Post this a while back, but I didn't get a response. Could someone help me with the following question.
1) Does the input lag get effected by the overclocking refresh rate?
2) If it is effected by the input lag could someone help quantify what the improvement would be for 65Hz, 75Hz, 85Hz, 97Hz vs. default 60Hz?
I play 1st person shooters and was intrigued by the option to OC the Catleap. I read the posts with the pictures where fast motion results in a smoother rendering of the motion (more frames). I'm just unclear if you notice any difference in 1st person shooter games when running 60Hz vs 97Hz besides smoother gameplay. From my experience input lag has a higher impact on getting kills vs. a smooth frame rate.

Originally Posted by HyperMatrix
Unless you're running a terrible terrible monitor, network lag is probably 10x worse than your input lag. Smoother motion makes it easier to see things and focus on them. So it does make a huge difference in fast action FPS games. Input lag for me is indiscernible with most monitors, including this one. From the moment I push a button, until the action is performed on the monitor is instantaneous. I had a 240hz samsung tv before that had about 60ms-70ms input lag. THAT I noticed quite easily and returned the unit immediately.
Not really directly answering your question...because it doesn't really have "another effect" that you'd notice, other than your eyes being able to see and keep up with everything happening on screen. I play Planetside which is a 12 year old mmofps and going fromm 60hz to 82hz right now I already notice much better performance and ease of play. Can't wait till I get an nvidia card and hit 100hz. For FPS games, don't discount the extra hz. They're awesome.









Originally Posted by silberx
Firstly, assuming you get one of these monitors without a scaler (DVI only input) they have pretty much nothing between the video card's output and the panel's display that would add much input lag; the displays thus have correspondingly low input lag already. About the increased refresh rate, this does two things; firstly it improves your framerate, meaing you get new visual updates from the game more often; this obviously helps and is well understood. The second benefit is that at higher refresh rates, the maximal delay before your monitor gets updated with a new frame is reduced as well; for example, with VSYNC on at 60Hz a frame update happens every 16.67ms; this means that the image on screen may be delayed for as much as 16ms, assuming nothing else is delaying extra frames (buffering or render delays in the game engine). The same logic applies even when VSYNC is off, but relates to parts of frames instead of whole frames so it's less clear to explain that way. If your monitor is running at 100Hz, that 16.67ms delay (which again, is a best-case assuming no other delays are stacking up) is reduced to 10ms.
The 7ms difference may not seem like much, but throw a couple extra frames of render delay in there from either game pipeline limitations or poor VSYNC implementations (basically anything DirectX) and suddenly you're looking at a 20ms difference between drawing at 60Hz and 100Hz; combine this with the overall faster update rate (smoother, more fluid animation) and it can be a pretty big difference to a high level player.
Short version: Increases in refresh rate *will* improve your input lag (but not by a massive amount), but depending on you personally it may or may not be a big difference as the input lag is already low on these displays due to the lack of a scaler or overdrive.

Originally Posted by sfsilicon

Thanks for the detailed reply. I got the SE version without scaler. So I think I am good for now and just OC the screen to 65Hz. Still trying to decide if I should pay for the board upgrade if it becomes available.

Originally Posted by sfsiliconHyperMatrix
115% yes. =) Well worth it.





Spoiler: 60Hz vs Overclocked comparison



Click here for ToastyX's 60Hz vs 85Hz Refresh Rate Multitool & Mouse Cursor Test pictures.

HyperMatrix's "Yamakasi 124hz/120hz/60hz refresh rate test" video










Spoiler: Why higher Hz matters so much for gamers who play FPS, Simulator, RTS, and many MMORGs



Check out jpinard post on here.





Spoiler: Overclocking, Step-by-Step and Videos



Currently only 2B serial model Catleaps are known to OC over 65Hz. This is due to the PCB boards used in the 2B's (serial code refers to manufacturing month code). 2B's are generally not available anymore, but some lucky folks get older stock from newer sellers, directly from Korea or when buying less popular (more expensive models). There are two efforts going on to get a >65Hz overclocking monitors: a) ScribbyDaGreat is trying to build replacement 2B boards. See the Catleap OP for more info. b) bQvle was working to do a limited production Catleap run with one of the Catleap seller. The thread was locked, but hopefully by mid May 2012 the monitor will be available for sale.

>85Hz OC'ing will depend on your graphic card and your 2B monitor. HyperMatrix has hit 105Hz on a 6970. Only the 680GTX is known go past the magical 120Hz mark with 125Hz being the max stable refresh rate.

For a step-by-step guide see the Color Calibration/Overclocking guide in Scribby's OP.
For video guides see HyperMatrix's videos

100Hz+ Videos









Yamakasi Catleap Artifacting over 120Hz












_Part 2:
- Video Playback / Judder
- non-OC PC gaming videos
- OC'ed PC gaming videos
- PS3 gaming @ 1080p on HDMI catleap_


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I finally got SLI to run 100hz at 32mil colours. But I've not been able to get it to do 120hz. As for the single cards, almost all games worked fine at 120hz, 32 mil colours. The only game that wouldn't work was Planetside, which is 12 years old. Dirt 3, WoW, and BF3 all worked fine automatically grabbing the 120hz from the desktop set resolution.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> After more testing, I couldn't even get to 104hz without running into issues. I think pixel clock boosting on SLI just doesn't work. You can run it up to 400 and it works fine, but beyond that...no way. So far, anyway. Maybe will be resolved in a future driver, but currently...SLI = 100hz (or 101hz?) cap.
> Single-carders though...honestly, the GTX 680 is phenomenal.


Hmm, have you experienced any stability issues like some others have reported? Some say they sometimes wake their PC up to a monitor displaying only half the image haha

Maybe we should ask nvidia why it doesn't let it run past 400 in SLI


----------



## hybridtracer

My monitor arrived today from Green-Sum. Ordered last Saturday so it was during the warehouse move. I got it all setup but when i turn it on i get no picture...I have a GTX580. I used the supplied DVI cable and tried both port of the video card. Anyone know what is going on? It is recognized on the computer but shows no picture.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> My monitor arrived today from Green-Sum. Ordered last Saturday so it was during the warehouse move. I got it all setup but when i turn it on i get no picture...I have a GTX580. I used the supplied DVI cable and tried both port of the video card. Anyone know what is going on? It is recognized on the computer but shows no picture.


Several things to try. First, use a different DVI cable. Second, measure the voltage coming out of the power brick. Third, take it apart and ensure that all the cables are seated properly. It should work fine on your card on either port. Report back. Sorry, but the supplied DVI cable is crap, the brick could be bad, and/or the cabling inside the monitor may not be seated all the way.

See the first post for all these issues.


----------



## PiERiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> My monitor arrived today from Green-Sum. Ordered last Saturday so it was during the warehouse move. I got it all setup but when i turn it on i get no picture...I have a GTX580. I used the supplied DVI cable and tried both port of the video card. Anyone know what is going on? It is recognized on the computer but shows no picture.


Are you using the modded 301.10 drivers by chance?


----------



## utnorris

Try plugging int the monitor first, turn it on and then plug it into the GPU. I had a similar issue and that fixed mine, no issues since.


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PiERiT*
> 
> Are you using the modded 301.10 drivers by chance?


Nope I think I have 295.73
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *utnorris*
> 
> Try plugging int the monitor first, turn it on and then plug it into the GPU. I had a similar issue and that fixed mine, no issues since.


Tried this and it didn't work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Several things to try. First, use a different DVI cable. Second, measure the voltage coming out of the power brick. Third, take it apart and ensure that all the cables are seated properly. It should work fine on your card on either port. Report back. Sorry, but the supplied DVI cable is crap, the brick could be bad, and/or the cabling inside the monitor may not be seated all the way.
> 
> See the first post for all these issues.


Looks like I'm going to have more things to buy


----------



## PiERiT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Nope I think I have 295.73
> Tried this and it didn't work.
> Looks like I'm going to have more things to buy


Try fiddling with the power cable and connector on the back of the monitor: adjusting them, unplugging it and plugging it back in, etc. Mine did the same thing as yours. I thought it was the drivers, but I also messed with cables for a good 20 minutes, so I've no idea what fixed it. Needless to say I'm afraid to touch it now.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Not sure if I want to buy one now. Four people reporting a problem in an hour.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Not sure if I want to buy one now


It is odd that it seems a lot more problems are being reported. However, I have had no issues, at least since the few I had in the first few days. The sparkly thing has gone away for the most part, and if it does pop up, a simple restart fixes it. Come to think of it, it may have even been caused by the 6950 that is currently being RMA'd, because I can't remember it happening since I've gone to just one GPU.

I think the key to knowing how to troubleshoot these monitors lies in one hell of a lot of reading. I watched the original thread about the Shimians for days before buying. While I was still deciding, I spent a good amount of time each night trying to read up on these monitors, and reading some of the first Catleap owners issue/opinions/fixes. When I finally purchased was right before the explosion of new sellers. I got mine from Dream-seller, the first guy that sold bruce his Smimian, and felt confident. I knew what I was getting into, and what I may have to do to get this to work properly, and make sure I took care of it and watched for signs of trouble, especially due to no warranty. (There is a warranty, but cost to ship is 1/4 cost of monitor.)

That being said, I hope users aren't discouraged from taking a chance. Just make sure you do your homework. Know what monitor has what features you want.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Ok, I'll buy 3 if you tell me if a game in eyefinity runned in 1080p will look like crap, because I'm hesitating between 3 of these or 3 native 1080p screens in eyefinity. I want the cat leap SO BAD DUDE.

Can you try it on your set up if a game in 1920x1080 (with GPU Scalling enabled in CCC) runs like a native 1080p screen.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Ok, I'll buy 3 if you tell me if a game in eyefinity runned in 1080p will look like crap, because I'm hesitating between 3 of these or 3 native 1080p screens in eyefinity. I want the cat leap SO BAD DUDE.


All I know is this. Games in 2560x1440 look superb and perfect on this monitor. But if I run that same game in 1920x1080, it looks 'soft'. It just doesn't scale to my liking. This is not to say someone else won't mind the 'softness'. Sorry, soft is the best way I can describe what I mean.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Have you tried enabling GPU Scalling in CCC in "My digital flat panels" while using in 1080p

Please post a screenshot of an example of each resolution, this will help me decide between 1 or 3!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I think the key to knowing how to troubleshoot these monitors lies in one hell of a lot of reading. I watched the original thread about the Shimians for days before buying. While I was still deciding, I spent a good amount of time each night trying to read up on these monitors, and reading some of the first Catleap owners issue/opinions/fixes. When I finally purchased was right before the explosion of new sellers.


Believe me, I read all the threads on OCN, and everyday I read all comments


----------



## youra6

Ok, is "overclocking" a monitor just a way of saying: increasing the refresh rate?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youra6*
> 
> Ok, is "overclocking" a monitor just a way of saying: increasing the refresh rate?


Exactly. It doesn't work with most monitors (as they have too much hardware between the panel and video output that will just drop frames if it's something it doesn't expect) but it can with these (with the right internal boards).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Have you tried enabling GPU Scalling in CCC in "My digital flat panels" while using in 1080p
> Please post a screenshot of an example of each resolution, this will help me decide between 1 or 3!!!


I personally find running anything other than video content at 1080p full screen (desktop/game/etc.) to be unacceptably blurry; it defeats the point of the monitor entirely, and you'd get a superior image with a native 1080p panel if that's the resolution you'll be running for everything. If you want to see how it would look, simply change your current monitor's desktop resolution (assuming you're using an LCD) to something about two-thirds as large (ie: run 1600x900 or 1280x720 or similar on a 1080p monitor) and you'll see the effect; this is common to *all* LCDs running at non-native resolution, and should be avoided at all times (unless there's absolutely no way around it). Since these monitors have such a high native resolution, an exception exists at 1280x720 as the panel is 4x this resolution, meaning running 720p on the screen results in 4 pixels being evenly used to represent each pixel sent to it; no uneven scaling is required and the resultant image is sharp. Anything between 720p and 1440p will look blurry.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Got mine yesterday. Its a 2C model so 65 mhz is the limit. Gotta say this is a extremly nice moniter. No dead pixels, no backlight bleeding. And opening it up to mount with a vesa wall mount was suprisingly easy ( thanks to the guide ).


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> do you mind sharing where you are ordering the display port to dual dvi-d convertor from ?
> I also have to buy one and have no idea what is what


Miscommunication. My DVI-D is hooked up to the Yamakasi. The Displayport cable is a native mini-DP to full size DP for the U2412m, my second monitor. No conversions.

BB


----------



## BBGunWB

Interesting issue that's popping up since I got the 7870. During startup, the screen lights up and boots as normal, but about 40 seconds to a minute into the boot, it goes dark then comes right back.

Maybe the calibration being applied?

System:
Win7x64/ECS PH-55A Black / Core i7 860 / 8 GB Gskill F3-10666CL8D-4GBHK
Yamakasi Catleap Q270 2560x1440 / Sapphire Radeon 5770 / Corsair 650TX
LG22X SATA Lightscribe / WD 640 Black AALS / WD 1TB GRN / WD 2TB GRN

BB


----------



## Spicy61

hey guys just got mine, zero issues. does anyone have any calibration advice? i'm not overclocking the monitor at all but want it calibrated.


----------



## hybridtracer

Hmmm...so my monitor decided to just work fine I guess. Perfect display no dead pixels. If there is any backlight bleed...I sure can't tell. Awesome!!!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Hmm, have you experienced any stability issues like some others have reported? Some say they sometimes wake their PC up to a monitor displaying only half the image haha
> Maybe we should ask nvidia why it doesn't let it run past 400 in SLI


At 100hz it's completely fine. At the full 120hz I had screen issues when I turned the monitor back on in the morning. Changing to 118hz fixed that. Also think some more manual timing adjustments to lower the pixel clock a bit more would have fixed the issue. I ended up bring it to a 476mhz clock I think. But never tested to see if it'd stay stable or not as I went SLI shortly after that and can only do 100hz now. And have had no issues after that point. This is all for single cards though.


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> Miscommunication. My DVI-D is hooked up to the Yamakasi. The Displayport cable is a native mini-DP to full size DP for the U2412m, my second monitor. No conversions.
> BB


ah, I see. anyways, in case there are other mac users in the club... I ordered this one from monoprice
the reviews looked really good (better than the original apple stuff).

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2#description


----------



## MrSpoon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spicy61*
> 
> hey guys just got mine, zero issues. does anyone have any calibration advice? i'm not overclocking the monitor at all but want it calibrated.


Check out the calibration info on the first page.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> ah, I see. anyways, in case there are other mac users in the club... I ordered this one from monoprice
> the reviews looked really good (better than the original apple stuff).
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2#description


Could be wrong but that sounds like a bad idea....268.5mhz bandwidth, so not capable of higher refresh rates. Unless you get a c model and are happy leaving it at 65hz.


----------



## dumpsterj

I ordered one yesterday , i cant wait !!! its gonna kill me !!!


----------



## SkyPC

Join the club. I'm refreshing track-trace web page every H.


----------



## cruisx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Exactly. It doesn't work with most monitors (as they have too much hardware between the panel and video output that will just drop frames if it's something it doesn't expect) but it can with these (with the right internal boards).
> I personally find running anything other than video content at 1080p full screen (desktop/game/etc.) to be unacceptably blurry; it defeats the point of the monitor entirely, and you'd get a superior image with a native 1080p panel if that's the resolution you'll be running for everything. If you want to see how it would look, simply change your current monitor's desktop resolution (assuming you're using an LCD) to something about two-thirds as large (ie: run 1600x900 or 1280x720 or similar on a 1080p monitor) and you'll see the effect; this is common to *all* LCDs running at non-native resolution, and should be avoided at all times (unless there's absolutely no way around it). Since these monitors have such a high native resolution, an exception exists at 1280x720 as the panel is 4x this resolution, meaning running 720p on the screen results in 4 pixels being evenly used to represent each pixel sent to it; no uneven scaling is required and the resultant image is sharp. Anything between 720p and 1440p will look blurry.


Hmm weird, I have a HD 5830 so i tried to do 720p in bf3...It looked really bad like jaggie and fuzzy. But then i changed it to 1080p and it seems much better, no more fuzzyness or anything like it was on 720p, weird. (BTW surprised that the 5830 gets 40fps on bf3 high 0_0) Ps3 in 720p looked very nice if you moved a few feet back, good to know i can use it with a console =).


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruisx*
> 
> Hmm weird, I have a HD 5830 so i tried to do 720p in bf3...It looked really bad like jaggie and fuzzy. But then i changed it to 1080p and it seems much better, no more fuzzyness or anything like it was on 720p, weird. (BTW surprised that the 5830 gets 40fps on bf3 high 0_0) Ps3 in 720p looked very nice if you moved a few feet back, good to know i can use it with a console =).


Well, at a resolution that low things won't appear particularly clean and high resolution; they'll look fairly "jagged" but they shouldn't be blurry. Depending on AA implementation in the game it may obscure some of the benefits of using an evenly divisible resolution, in which case you may be better off running an in-between res if you can't do full 1440p. Again, it depends on the game - but in the standard case (no AA, since you're trying to run as high a resolution as possible anyways) off-ratio resolutions will have an extra bluriness on top of whatever reduction in sharpness or detail you get for using a lower resolution.


----------



## youra6

Does anyone know how well the bezel in the 3view monitor matches up with the bezel on the Catleap?

I want dual monitors and the 3view is slightly cheaper.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Can someone tell me what I need to buy if I buy a Catleap, do I need a step down transformer and which plug converter do I buy.

And what about the crossover, do I need a transformer too?


----------



## illli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *youra6*
> 
> Does anyone know how well the bezel in the 3view monitor matches up with the bezel on the Catleap?
> 
> I want dual monitors and the 3view is slightly cheaper.


you can find a bunch of pictures from the korean review http://www.playwares.com/xe/20530955
i think if you plan on putting them side by side, one will be a different height.

not sure the hassle would be worth it. i think i've seen some catleaps on ebay for $358, vs. 3view $348?


----------



## LazierSaid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Can someone tell me what I need to buy if I buy a Catleap, do I need a step down transformer and which plug converter do I buy.
> And what about the crossover, do I need a transformer too?


You shouldn't need anything with the Catleap, it comes with an 110 AC > 24 DC brick. A few (3 or 4?) people have gotten defective power bricks, the ebay links coming up in these threads are compatible replacements.


----------



## youra6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illli*
> 
> you can find a bunch of pictures from the korean review http://www.playwares.com/xe/20530955
> i think if you plan on putting them side by side, one will be a different height.
> not sure the hassle would be worth it. i think i've seen some catleaps on ebay for $358, vs. 3view $348?


Cool, thanks! I'll definitely will be buying another Catleap then.


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Could be wrong but that sounds like a bad idea....268.5mhz bandwidth, so not capable of higher refresh rates. Unless you get a c model and are happy leaving it at 65hz.


yeah, I got a C model but that's some good info. btw I don't think I can overclock it on my mac, the video is pathetic - NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB ? however I thinking of getting a sony vaio s soon. they can have either AMD Radeon HD 6470M (512MB) or AMD Radeon HD 6630M (1GB). they only have VGA (useless) and an HDMI port. will I be able to use the yamakasi with HDMI ?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LazierSaid*
> 
> You shouldn't need anything with the Catleap, it comes with an 110 AC > 24 DC brick. A few (3 or 4?) people have gotten defective power bricks, the ebay links coming up in these threads are compatible replacements.


What about the crossover, I think it might need a step down transformer?
Crossover quote
Quote:


> Notice: A/C Adaptor of this monitor is 220v only , you need to purchase correct
> 
> Adaptor on your country


And what kind of converter do I need. i'm from Canada/USA and I need a converter from plug C, can't find any on ebay or I'm doing my research the wrong way.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> What about the crossover, I think it might need a step down transformer?


This is the Catleap Club mate! You may need a new DVI definitely a PSU cable, but other than that how should we know? Check the Crossover club for that info!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> yeah, I got a C model but that's some good info. btw I don't think I can overclock it on my mac, the video is pathetic - NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB ? however I thinking of getting a sony vaio s soon. they can have either AMD Radeon HD 6470M (512MB) or AMD Radeon HD 6630M (1GB). they only have VGA (useless) and an HDMI port. will I be able to use the yamakasi with HDMI ?


HDMI only if you get a "Multi" or "Gaming" version of the monitor which costs more, and also introduces higher input lag. Something like 3x more.


----------



## sinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> yeah, I got a C model but that's some good info. btw I don't think I can overclock it on my mac, the video is pathetic - NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB ? however I thinking of getting a sony vaio s soon. they can have either AMD Radeon HD 6470M (512MB) or AMD Radeon HD 6630M (1GB). they only have VGA (useless) and an HDMI port. will I be able to use the yamakasi with HDMI ?


You won't be able to use the Catleap at native resolution when connected to HDMI. HDMI is single-link DVI.
There is a specification for a Type B HDMI connector which is wider than the normal HDMI connector and pin compatible with dual-link DVI, but this hasn't been implemented yet on any actual products.


----------



## scatlm

Hey on this ebay listing it says its incompatible with the Radeon 5850 and the 5870? Is this true?

EBAY listing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/110843063137?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19cec2eb61


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinter*
> 
> You won't be able to use the Catleap at native resolution when connected to HDMI. HDMI is single-link DVI.
> There is a specification for a Type B HDMI connector which is wider than the normal HDMI connector and pin compatible with dual-link DVI, but this hasn't been implemented yet on any actual products.


damn. I guess the price is so low for a reason. looks like there are not many laptops out there that can run this beast (long live the macbook). ...I just found another reason to get a 4ghz+ desktop now that I am a member of overclock.net. will write again in week or so when I get back from a business trip. the active mDP -> DVI-D dual convertor should be in the mail by then.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> damn. I guess the price is so low for a reason. looks like there are not many laptops out there that can run this beast (long live the macbook). ...I just found another reason to get a 4ghz+ desktop now that I am a member of overclock.net. will write again in week or so when I get back from a business trip. the active mDP -> DVI-D dual convertor should be in the mail by then.


It's not the comp - it's the GPU. Besides you really want two of these, plus a 4.5ghz OC monster, plus full water cooling, plus 680 SLI, plus, plus, plus. Welcome to the world of OCN!


----------



## sinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> damn. I guess the price is so low for a reason. looks like there are not many laptops out there that can run this beast (long live the macbook). ...I just found another reason to get a 4ghz+ desktop now that I am a member of overclock.net. will write again in week or so when I get back from a business trip. the active mDP -> DVI-D dual convertor should be in the mail by then.


It's only a design decision by the laptop OEMs, the DVI port is much larger than the new standards (HDMI, DP). All laptops that come with a docking station can drive this monitor, there is certainly enough space on the docking station for the DVI port.
All new GPUs - even the Intel ones - can handle 2560x1600 in 2D, if you want to game on it however, that's a whole different story.


----------



## scatlm

Can anyone please tell me why it says its not compatible with a 5850?


----------



## Calibra71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Can anyone please tell me why it says its not compatible with a 5850?


Hello ,well I have the same question! Some sellers say in ads that are compatible, others sellers say the opposite.


----------



## alricking

Anyone know a good Arm mount for this monitor, not too expensive .. Chief KCG110 is good but god damz its expensive.


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sinter*
> 
> It's only a design decision by the laptop OEMs, the DVI port is much larger than the new standards (HDMI, DP). All laptops that come with a docking station can drive this monitor, there is certainly enough space on the docking station for the DVI port.
> All new GPUs - even the Intel ones - can handle 2560x1600 in 2D, if you want to game on it however, that's a whole different story.


ahaa. still learning. I agree that it's a design decision. the sony s has a VGA port too which is useless IMO.
and there is indeed a docking station for the vaio s with a DVI-D dual.
however it is almost $200 which defeats the purpose of buying the cheaper catleap in way
(unless that controller swap that will enable overclocking for 2c displays finally works out)...
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=&sku=756145&Q=&is=REG&A=details
of course the other option is to buy an already overpriced macbook so I guess...
no easy way out if you don't have a desktop. I don't have any gaming ambitions for now...
I will be using it for programming, reading, movies, occasional photo editing and stuff.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It's not the comp - it's the GPU. Besides you really want two of these, plus a 4.5ghz OC monster, plus full water cooling, plus 680 SLI, plus, plus, plus. Welcome to the world of OCN!


haha, thanks. it will definetly have water cooling and it will be a hackintosh, that's the only thing that I know for sure now.
btw I looked at your rigs, some impressive stuff.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It's not the comp - it's the GPU. Besides you really want two of these, plus a 4.5ghz OC monster, plus full water cooling, plus 680 SLI, plus, plus, plus. Welcome to the world of OCN!


On that note....

i7 2600k @ 4.8ghz (used to run 5.2ghz for benchmarking...but was unstable for everyday use)
16gb dual-channel 1833mhz ddr3
2x GTX 680 SLI (+135mhz gpu clock, +500 gpu memory clock) on a crappy 8x/8x pcie2 setup (instead of the standard 16x/16x or the new 32x/32x supported by pcie3)
And....Voila:



Imagine if I were using one of those 3960x's at 5ghz, with proper pcie 3 32x/32x setup! =D Would probably be pushing close to 8k. You really can't complain about these numbers or this card. Perfect match for this monitor.

My only gripe is that BF3 is a piece of **** and for some reason doesn't like OC'd nvidia cards. So if you overclock it at all you're bound to hit an error message in a round or two, possibly freeze your PC, etc...every other game works fine. BF3 has this problem. I googled it. It's a common issue. -_-


----------



## MTDEW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> On that note....
> i7 2600k @ 4.8ghz (used to run 5.2ghz for benchmarking...but was unstable for everyday use)
> 16gb dual-channel 1833mhz ddr3
> 2x GTX 680 SLI (+135mhz gpu clock, +500 gpu memory clock) on a crappy 8x/8x pcie2 setup (instead of the standard 16x/16x or the new 32x/32x supported by pcie3)
> And....Voila:
> 
> Imagine if I were using one of those 3960x's at 5ghz, with proper pcie 3 32x/32x setup! =D Would probably be pushing close to 8k. You really can't complain about these numbers or this card. Perfect match for this monitor.
> My only gripe is that BF3 is a piece of **** and for some reason doesn't like OC'd nvidia cards. So if you overclock it at all you're bound to hit an error message in a round or two, possibly freeze your PC, etc...every other game works fine. BF3 has this problem. I googled it. It's a common issue. -_-


What is the wallpaper you're using?
NM, found it.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MTDEW*
> 
> What is the wallpaper you're using?


You can find it at interfacelift.com


----------



## brzyski75

Hey guys. I ordered a Catleap from Dcsamsungmall on Tuesday night at 8pm cst and received it in Chicago at noon on Friday. Awesome shipping speed. No dead pixels at all. Slight blacklight bleed but nothing to worry about. Anyway, the only problem I am having is that my monitor isn't displaying the bios but I think that is because I have a HD5850.

About the crooked stands... when tightening down your stands did you alternate between the two bolts during tightening? Mine is pretty straight but I tightened the two bolts down at the same time. If you tighten one side down all the way and then the other it will cause it to lean.


----------



## greyhulk2

Hey guys i have just become a member on overclock.net as i have a situation that i need help with!

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...mputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item1e6c97e7ce

(there should be an Ebay link here)

I don't know if i should buy this monitor and i seen that this thread is about Yamakasi Monitor's.

The question is should i buy the monitor from South Korea, do you think it is legit?

Thanks


----------



## drka0tic

Everyone here is buying it from eBay sellers in South Korea.


----------



## SkyPC

Well, if you read trough (or some parts of this thread) youll get the full picture.

But it's legit as in "You will get the monitor"

About the rest, like dead pixels/getting the wrong model sent over/ dust behind the screen/ if broken having to pay for returning the monitor - this is the unlegit part I guess.

There is a risk for these factors, but there is always a risk when buying trough ebay, some sellers have more some less.

p.s.

Don't see no link in ur post.


----------



## youra6

Anything I can get to get these monitors in portrait mode? I'm sure some of you have already bought third party stands that work.


----------



## Coltronathon

Got my Catleap multi in yesterday (finally!!). I ordered from Dream-Seller and shipping was still very quick considering where it comes from, but not lightning quick like DCsamsungmall seems to be. It arrived in NY customs within 2 days and then USPS took its sweet ass time. 5 days total shipping (7 days since I ordered). This monitor is SEXY. Very happy I went with the multi-input too because PS3 games look damn good on the thing. I have yet to notice any dead pixels or uneven lighting / light bleed, improper colors or other weird issues others have reported. In short my monitor arrived in a timely manner in perfect condition with zero imperfections. Except for the stand of course which has a gangster lean and wobble.

I thought I had a "C" model but when I set a custom resolution/refresh in the Nvidia panel it let me go up to 85Hz. I've never tried this before so maybe I did something wrong - most games I have don't like 2560x1440 let alone at 85Hz but Deus Ex: HR + fraps showed it going well over 60fps. My rig is a budget build and the gtx560 ti's pixel clock is probably what's hampering me.

Here's some horrible looking pictures from my crappy point and shoot (someone find some cheap Korean DSLRs)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SkyPC

New York. God I want to visit that place.


----------



## tbadiuk

Could anyone with a NON-GLOSSY catleap please contact me if they're iterested in swapping/selling it. I'm looking for one for someone who likes my Crossover but doesn't like glossy displays.

Thanks,
Ted


----------



## SkyPC

Ok, got a question bout Frapsing and scaling.

Some will say that the game will look soft/aka bad on a 1920x1080 in a game, well, If I will fraps wile playing on 1920x1080 will Fraps capture this softens effect as well? Or that only translates into a physical picture not digital ?


----------



## scatlm

Can anyone please tell me why it says its not compatible with a 5850?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Calibra71*
> 
> Hello ,well I have the same question! Some sellers say in ads that are compatible, others sellers say the opposite.


Yeah i see osme OCN members are running it with an HD5850, I jus want to be 100% sure, however, before I order this thing.

Its odd that it would say its compatible with a 5830, but not a 5850 or 5870?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Can anyone please tell me why it says its not compatible with a 5850?
> Yeah i see osme OCN members are running it with an HD5850, I jus want to be 100% sure, however, before I order this thing.
> Its odd that it would say its compatible with a 5830, but not a 5850 or 5870?


It will be compatible as long as the 5850/70 has a dual dvi input. I cant remember if they do or not.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Ok, got a question bout Frapsing and scaling.
> Some will say that the game will look soft/aka bad on a 1920x1080 in a game, well, If I will fraps wile playing on 1920x1080 will Fraps capture this softens effect as well? Or that only translates into a physical picture not digital ?


No, as far as fraps is concerned, you're playing on 1080p regardless of how the monitor decides to scale the pixels.
What matters the most, is how and which codec you will render with.


----------



## SkyPC

Thank you Sxcerino.

Hmmmm, so, to be more clear If I were to be playing Battle field 3 on a 55 inch 28,000 × 9,334 resolution monitor (which RED epic uses) and the game would be scaled down to 1920x1080, the Video file when played back would look the same as if I would have frapsed it on a BenQ 24inch 1920x1080 monitor right ?

I got no problems with rendering, all I care about is getting a great quality video file that I can work with. And If I will get some weird fuzzy video files from this monitor I will be very disappointed about taking the 2560x1440 resolution.

Asked this already but, I can scale the game individually with out scaling the whole system from 2560x1440 to 1920x1080 right?


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Thank you Sxcerino.
> Hmmmm, so, to be more clear If I were to be playing Battle field 3 on a 55 inch 28,000 × 9,334 resolution monitor (which RED epic uses) and the game would be scaled down to 1920x1080, the Video file when played back would look the same as if I would have frapsed it on a BenQ 24inch 1920x1080 monitor right ?


Yes. Programs like Fraps record what the GPU outputs, not what the monitor displays.


----------



## SkyPC

I feel so much better naow. Thanks Gang.

It will be a blast watching films on this beast.

The recipe really is locking yourself in a dark room, preparing hot cakao along with other tasty snacks. Ofc before you begin this ritual you need to make sure that everything else is in order, like there cant be any chores left to do in the house or you will feel at unease.

Put on some headphones "preferably AKG k701" and your ready for a great experience.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> It will be compatible as long as the 5850/70 has a dual dvi input. I cant remember if they do or not.












Why would it say its not compatible? I think ALL 5850's and 5870's have dual DVI-i ... these are both inputs, right?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why would it say its not compatible? I think ALL 5850's and 5870's have dual DVI-i ... these are both inputs, right?


Im not sure why it would list it as incompatble on ebay, but as long as the card has a dual link dvi you should be fine.

Im almost positive that card has dual link


----------



## scatlm

I went through the manual and it just says dvi-i x 2... nothing about "dual link". Im not even sure what dual link is to be honest.

Edit: Ok, I did a little googling around and it just means dual dvi-inputs. So I should be good, now my next concern is, that I really wont be able to game on its native resolution( 2560x1440) with a single 5850. I'd probably have to upgrade.. hmmm


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> I went through the manual and it just says dvi-i x 2... nothing about "dual link". Im not even sure what dual link is to be honest.
> Edit: Ok, I did a little googling around and it just means dual dvi-inputs. So I should be good, now my next concern is, that I really wont be able to game on its native resolution( 2560x1440) with a single 5850. I'd probably have to upgrade.. hmmm


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#Dual-link_DVI

It's the amount of pins on the cable and graphics card - I think single link is ok up to 1920x1200


----------



## scatlm

OH WOW. OK. I did a quick search and found a thread on another forum regarding this and someone posted that it just meant dual dvi ports. Next time I wont take the first this I read as a cold-hard fact.

Anyway, I checked and I do have dual link ports... So, not sure why some of the ebay sellers have that table that says its not compatible with 5850/70's.
_
dcsamsungmall_ doesn't have that table, however.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> OH WOW. OK. I did a quick search and found a thread on another forum regarding this and someone posted that it just meant dual dvi ports. Next time I wont take the first this I read as a cold-hard fact.
> Anyway, I checked and I do have dual link ports... So, not sure why some of the ebay sellers have that table that says its not compatible with 5850/70's.
> _
> dcsamsungmall_ doesn't have that table, however.


If a card has 2x dvi-i ports it's no good. You need a dvi-d port. Even the GTX 680 only has 1 dvi-i and 1 dvi-d port. As long as your card has a dvi-d port, and can handle 2560x1440 resolution (which, if it's the HD5000 series it should) then you should be ok. But to be safe I'd google search something about the 5870 or whatever and 2560x1440 resolution to see what others on the web who have the same card have written.


----------



## scatlm

Are you sure? I checked mine again , and its two dual-i's









So maybe thats why the 5850 and 5870 is not compatible?

Do you know if the HP ZR2740w 27-inch IPS also requires one dvi-d?

Edit: Anyway i don't want to clutter this thread any further, I made a thread regarding my 5850 + catleap compatibility questions/concerns. Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks.


----------



## gibsy

hye..can someone with oc'ed catleap does me a favor..Please post some videos on bf3 max at ~100Hz please?wanna see how the image quality+smoothness it will be..Thank you!!


----------



## SkyPC

At first I was a bit at unease about getting a 60hz Catleap monitor since I will be gaming and was thinking that maybe I should get some 120hz benQ what not, but then I realized that I had been gaming on my Samsung SyncMaster 2232BW, which is a 60hz monitor afaik, for the last 5 years and I never had any complaints gaming wise. For me it's the PC which needs to run games properly, not the monitor.

But I have not tried 120hz monitor, so who knows what sensations that would bring.

Either way catleap will be better quality vise and if anything I can only get 60+ hz which will surpass my old syncmaster in this aspect as well.


----------



## gibsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> At first I was a bit at unease about getting a 60hz Catleap monitor since I will be gaming and was thinking that maybe I should get some 120hz benQ what not, but then I realized that I had been gaming on my Samsung SyncMaster 2232BW, which is a 60hz monitor afaik, for the last 5 years and I never had any complaints gaming wise. For me it's the PC which needs to run games properly, not the monitor.
> But I have not tried 120hz monitor, so who knows what sensations that would bring.
> Either way catleap will be better quality vise and if anything I can only get 60+ hz which will surpass my old syncmaster in this aspect as well.


yeah..im kind have the same problem.. I need to decide between this and 120hz monitor..I'm using 32' fullhd hdtv now but wanna move to monitor.. Hmm.. But for the value, maybe I will go with the catleap..


----------



## SkyPC

Catleap is great if not defected, as I Read. But make sure you get a buyer who ships fast.

Mine is sitting at :

>"Handed over to Air carrier" INCHEON<

(which is the Currier in South Korea)

So basically it hasn't left the country yet, it just sits there for the last 3+ days. Anyone had the same problem?

Makes me anxious tracking my Catleap each day and finding that there has been no change.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Are you sure? I checked mine again , and its two dual-i's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So maybe thats why the 5850 and 5870 is not compatible?
> Do you know if the HP ZR2740w 27-inch IPS also requires one dvi-d?
> Edit: Anyway i don't want to clutter this thread any further, I made a thread regarding my 5850 + catleap compatibility questions/concerns. Any input is greatly appreciated, thanks.


Yeah bud. Sorry. It's not because of the monitor. It's anything that runs at that resolution. Including the Dell.

_Example display modes (single link):
HDTV (1,920 × 1,080) @ 60 Hz with CVT-RB blanking (139 MHz)
UXGA (1,600 × 1,200) @ 60 Hz with GTF blanking (161 MHz)
WUXGA (1,920 × 1,200) @ 60 Hz with CVT-RB blanking (154 MHz)
SXGA (1,280 × 1,024) @ 85 Hz with GTF blanking (159 MHz)
WXGA+ (1440 × 900) @ 60 Hz (107 MHz)
WQUXGA (3,840 × 2,400) @ 17 Hz (164 MHz)
Example display modes (dual link):
QXGA (2,048 × 1,536) @ 75 Hz with GTF blanking (2 × 170 MHz)
HDTV (1,920 × 1,080) @ 85 Hz with GTF blanking (2 × 126 MHz)
WUXGA (1,920 × 1,200) @ 120 Hz with CVT-RB blanking (2 x 154 MHz)
WQXGA (2,560 × 1,600) @ 60 Hz with GTF blanking (2 × 174 MHz) (30-inch / 762 mm Apple, Dell, Gateway, HP, NEC, Quinux, and Samsung LCDs)
WQXGA (2,560 × 1,600) @ 60 Hz with CVT-RB blanking (2 × 135 MHz) (30-inch / 762 mm Apple, Dell, Gateway, HP, NEC, Quinux, and Samsung LCDs)
WQXGA (2,560 × 1,600) @ 60 Hz with CVT-RB blanking (269 MHz) (This is for high end monitors when operating at greater than 24 bits per pixel.)
WQUXGA (3,840 × 2,400) @ 33 Hz with GTF blanking (2 × 159 MHz)_


----------



## Tea1023

Just placed an order with Samsung_Korea for my first catleap!

anyone dealt with them before? how good are they? Its FedEX instead of EMS. is that a good or bad thing?


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> hye..can someone with oc'ed catleap does me a favor..Please post some videos on bf3 max at ~100Hz please?wanna see how the image quality+smoothness it will be..Thank you!!


You will not be able to view the difference between 60 and 100hz through a video. Your monitor only outputs at 60hz, and even assuming that the person recorded at 100hz and renders it at 100fps, you will only be able to see 60.

As for image quality, it will be very subjective due to recording methods and again, output methods.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> I thought I had a "C" model but when I set a custom resolution/refresh in the Nvidia panel it let me go up to 85Hz. I've never tried this before so maybe I did something wrong - most games I have don't like 2560x1440 let alone at 85Hz but Deus Ex: HR + fraps showed it going well over 60fps. My rig is a budget build and the gtx560 ti's pixel clock is probably what's hampering me.


Anything above 85hz working on the multi input version? You should be able to ht 97hz on automatic settings if its a 120hz capable display.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> If a card has 2x dvi-i ports it's no good. You need a dvi-d port. Even the GTX 680 only has 1 dvi-i and 1 dvi-d port. As long as your card has a dvi-d port, and can handle 2560x1440 resolution (which, if it's the HD5000 series it should) then you should be ok. But to be safe I'd google search something about the 5870 or whatever and 2560x1440 resolution to see what others on the web who have the same card have written.


I don't see what DVI-*I* has to do with anything. DVI-I just means that the DVI port can output both an analogue signal (VGA) and a digital signal (the DVI/HDMI signal). The important thing is that it is Dual-Link (ie, 27 digital pins). As long as it's not a DVI-*A* port, which is analogue only.


----------



## Tea1023

another question for you guys if you don't mind. this dvi d problem thing, will it affect me with my 6990?

or ill do the Google myself if you could explain the problem in layman terms? thanks.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't see what DVI-*I* has to do with anything. DVI-I just means that the DVI port can output both an analogue signal (VGA) and a digital signal (the DVI/HDMI signal). The important thing is that it is Dual-Link (ie, 27 digital pins). As long as it's not a DVI-*A* port, which is analogue only.


Thank you! I appreciate you clearing this up for me.


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> hye..can someone with oc'ed catleap does me a favor..Please post some videos on bf3 max at ~100Hz please?wanna see how the image quality+smoothness it will be..Thank you!!


Unfortunately you cannot get a representation of image quality or smoothness with a screenshot.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't see what DVI-*I* has to do with anything. DVI-I just means that the DVI port can output both an analogue signal (VGA) and a digital signal (the DVI/HDMI signal). The important thing is that it is Dual-Link (ie, 27 digital pins). As long as it's not a DVI-*A* port, which is analogue only.


DVI-I handles both analog and digital. True. I'm curious now. Because my monitor didn't work when plugged into the DVI-I port on my radeon 6970. Only in the DVI-D port. But on the GTX 680, it is working in both. So either the 5870 isn't dual-link (just 2x single link) or there is another limitation by the video card itself.


----------



## SJetski71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Got my Catleap multi in yesterday (finally!!). I ordered from Dream-Seller and shipping was still very quick considering where it comes from, but not lightning quick like DCsamsungmall seems to be. It arrived in NY customs within 2 days and then USPS took its sweet ass time. 5 days total shipping (7 days since I ordered). This monitor is SEXY. Very happy I went with the multi-input too because PS3 games look damn good on the thing. I have yet to notice any dead pixels or uneven lighting / light bleed, improper colors or other weird issues others have reported. In short my monitor arrived in a timely manner in perfect condition with zero imperfections. Except for the stand of course which has a gangster lean and wobble.
> I thought I had a "C" model but when I set a custom resolution/refresh in the Nvidia panel it let me go up to 85Hz. I've never tried this before so maybe I did something wrong - most games I have don't like 2560x1440 let alone at 85Hz but Deus Ex: HR + fraps showed it going well over 60fps. My rig is a budget build and the gtx560 ti's pixel clock is probably what's hampering me.
> Here's some horrible looking pictures from my crappy point and shoot (someone find some cheap Korean DSLRs)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Going by the pic it looks like you do have a 2C3, a 2C3 Catleap with multi inputs. Did you test with V-sync on ?

Have i not been keeping up or shouldn't this monitor be limited to 65-67hz ?

Or is the multi-input 2C3 known to go 85hz and higher?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SJetski71*
> 
> Going by the pic it looks like you do have a 2C3, a 2C3 Catleap with multi inputs.
> Have i not been keeping up or shouldn't this monitor be limited to 65-67hz ?
> Or is the multi-input 2C3 known to go 85hz and higher?


Well due to it being a multi the pcb is likely to be different. I'd love to hear about OC'ing results. Tested in-game with vsync on to hit 85frames??


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> DVI-I handles both analog and digital. True. I'm curious now. Because my monitor didn't work when plugged into the DVI-I port on my radeon 6970. Only in the DVI-D port. But on the GTX 680, it is working in both. So either the 5870 isn't dual-link (just 2x single link) or there is another limitation by the video card itself.


Maybe it is an isolated issue.


----------



## samuraixzodus

I own a Asus ENGTX580 DCII/2DIS/1536MD5 which does not have DVI-D. Its has a D-Sub Max Resolution of 2048x1536 and a DVI Max Resolution of 2560x1600. If I purchased a HDMI to DVI-D adapter or a display port to DVI-D adapter, would I get full resolution if not what would be a alternative?


----------



## KaRLiToS

You need something like that ( ±100$)

Support List: http://support.amd.com/us/eyefinity/Pages/eyefinity-dongles.aspx



http://www.directcanada.com/products/?sku=2886150070P&vpn=MDP2DVID&manufacture=STARTECH.COM%20-%20DT%20SB


----------



## SJetski71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Well due to it being a multi the pcb is likely to be different. I'd love to hear about OC'ing results. Tested in-game with vsync on to hit 85frames??


Same here, anyone else with a Multi input Catleap (*2C3* ?) willing to step up to the plate and test for higher refresh rates?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Maybe it is an isolated issue.


Hmmm....I dunno. Considering the 3 references to DVI in the eBay listing all say DVI-D, and in the compatibility charge it shows the 5870/5850/5970 as incompatible...I'm not sure. I checked the video cards and they're capable of 2560x1600. And even if not through DVI, at least through a DP-->DVI converter. It technically "should" work. I see nothing standing in the way of the monitor working on those cards. Unless there are other reasons we're not even thinking of as the source of the problem...

Honestly, I'd probably take the gamble. Worse case scenario, new video card.







Or DP->DVI converter.


----------



## Coltronathon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Anything above 85hz working on the multi input version? You should be able to ht 97hz on automatic settings if its a 120hz capable display.


Yeah it would "take" the refresh rate but it didn't seem stable. I'm at 90Hz now but I'll play some more tomorrow. I found this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XFree86_Modeline "The resulting refresh rate or frame rate of the display can be determined by dividing the pixel clock frequency by the product of the horizontal and vertical field lengths"

my pixel clock is 342.4072MHz. (342.4072E6)/(2560x1440) = 92.88Hz limit. Unless I OC my card... which I'll probably try for fun but I don't have the hardware to game all maxed out anyway. Also I need to find out how to prevent them from going back down to 60fps. I did notice the extra smoothness on some videos - very cool.

If these panels are capable of 120Hz does that mean if I play a 3D movie on my ps3 it'll work?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> I own a Asus ENGTX580 DCII/2DIS/1536MD5 which does not have DVI-D. Its has a D-Sub Max Resolution of 2048x1536 and a DVI Max Resolution of 2560x1600. If I purchased a HDMI to DVI-D adapter or a display port to DVI-D adapter, would I get full resolution if not what would be a alternative?


If it has a DVI Max Resolution of 2560x1600, you do have a DL-DVI port capable of driving a Catleap at full resolution.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Hmmm....I dunno. Considering the 3 references to DVI in the eBay listing all say DVI-D, and in the compatibility charge it shows the 5870/5850/5970 as incompatible...I'm not sure. I checked the video cards and they're capable of 2560x1600. And even if not through DVI, at least through a DP-->DVI converter. It technically "should" work. I see nothing standing in the way of the monitor working on those cards. Unless there are other reasons we're not even thinking of as the source of the problem...
> Honestly, I'd probably take the gamble. Worse case scenario, new video card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or DP->DVI converter.


I think this might work:

http://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-Products-DisplayPort-Graphics-900340/dp/B004M3K1HS

$25 is not bad.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> DVI-I handles both analog and digital. True. I'm curious now. Because my monitor didn't work when plugged into the DVI-I port on my radeon 6970. Only in the DVI-D port. But on the GTX 680, it is working in both. So either the 5870 isn't dual-link (just 2x single link) or there is another limitation by the video card itself.


Only one of the HD 5870 is a true DL-DVI port. It has one SL-DVI and one DL-DVI.

EDIT: Nothing I could find could corraborate this statement. Seems I remembered something wrong. It applies to the HD 6xxx series of cards, but does not seem to apply to the HD 5xxx series of cards.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I think this might work:
> http://www.amazon.com/VisionTek-Products-DisplayPort-Graphics-900340/dp/B004M3K1HS
> $25 is not bad.


That's a DP-> SL-DVI, a single link adapter. It won't run these monitors at full resolution. KaRLiToS' version is what is needed. All the DP/DL-DVI adapters have an extra USB cable for power.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> If it has a DVI Max Resolution of 2560x1600, you do have a DL-DVI port capable of driving a Catleap at full resolution.


I am a noob concerning these monitors so please forgive my ignorance







I ordered a q270 SE 2 days ago and was wondering if I have to get another graphics card or if I can use a adapter? It sounds like what your saying is that I should be fine? Thanks again...I am learning as I read through these 153 pages


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That's a DP-> SL-DVI, a single link adapter. It won't run these monitors at full resolution. KaRLiToS' version is what is needed. All the DP/DL-DVI adapters have an extra USB cable for power.


It makes more sense to upgrade cards. I have two in x-fire. I guess no Catleap for me


----------



## Racer J

To those of you asking about the compatibility charts, it's not an issue with the lack of a dual-link DVI port as the 9500GT has one, supports 2560x1600, and is still listed as being incompatible. There is a user over at [H]ard|Forum (thought I forget whom) that is using either the HD5850 or the HD5870 with one of the Korean monitors. Based on their experience, the incompatibility appears to be that it will not display the BIOS screen as the user is able to see Windows fine. Do not use that as an excuse to ignore the compatibility chart though as your results can/may vary. No one really knows what the incompatibility actually is much less why it exists.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> I am a noob concerning these monitors so please forgive my ignorance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered a q270 SE 2 days ago and was wondering if I have to get another graphics card or if I can use a adapter? It sounds like what your saying is that I should be fine? Thanks again...I am learning as I read through these 153 pages


You don't need an adapter. Your GTX 580 should run a Catleap just fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> It makes more sense to upgrade cards. I have two in x-fire. I guess no Catleap for me


Your HD 5850 should run a catleap just fine. I am running my Catleap off of my HD 5770. The HD 5850 has the exactly same port layout as HD 5770.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You don't need an adapter. Your GTX 580 should run a Catleap just fine.
> Your HD 5850 should run a catleap just fine. I am running my Catleap off of my HD 5770. The HD 5850 has the exactly same port layout as HD 5770.


Really, Just to be sure, you say the same ports as the 5850, so you have two dual link dvi-i's? or do you have one dvi-d?

I guess I can take the catleap and find out for myself. (no pun intended







)

Worst case scenario I just get the Displayport to dual link dvi-d, right?

Thanks for the help.


----------



## SJetski71

[/quote]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Yeah it would "take" the refresh rate but it didn't seem stable. I'm at 90Hz now but I'll play some more tomorrow. I found this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XFree86_Modeline "The resulting refresh rate or frame rate of the display can be determined by dividing the pixel clock frequency by the product of the horizontal and vertical field lengths"
> my pixel clock is 342.4072MHz. (342.4072E6)/(2560x1440) = 92.88Hz limit. Unless I OC my card... which I'll probably try for fun but I don't have the hardware to game all maxed out anyway. Also I need to find out how to prevent them from going back down to 60fps. I did notice the extra smoothness on some videos - very cool.
> If these panels are capable of 120Hz does that mean if I play a 3D movie on my ps3 it'll work?


Thank you for keeping us posted, hoping you can get the higher refresh rates stable on your 2C3 Multi input.

repped.


----------



## borandi

Ordered mine, has arrived in the UK, just awaiting delivery over the next couple of days









It's going to go on my review test bed. Will be fun running quad 7970s through it


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Ok, so two dual-link dvi-*i* shoul do it? Or would I need a DP to a dual-link dvi-*d*


You do not have 2 Dual Link DVI's on your HD 5850, you have one *SL*-DVI and one *DL*-DVI. DVI-*I* or DVI-*D*, it makes no difference whatsoever. I would ignore anything that refers to DVI-I/D/A at the moment; your card doesn't have DVI-A ports anyways.
EDIT: Nothing I could find could corraborate this statement. Seems I remembered something wrong. It applies to the HD 6xxx series of cards, but does not seem to apply to the HD 5xxx series of cards.

The only thing you need to know is that your card has a DL-DVI port (the "bottom" one, most likely. the one in line with the other ports), and as long as you run your catleap to that one, it will display a proper, 2560x1440 picture. If you feel like blowing $100 on a DP-> Dual-link DVI adapter, that is also an option (it just costs more). It is almost certain you do not need it.

Incompatibility issues are either non-existant, or have to do with something other than port connectivity.

My HD 5770 (Sapphire) comes with one SL-DVI-I port and one DL-DVI-I port. Both ports are keyed for DL-DVI, but only one can a output DL-DVI (so I can use a DL-DVI cable for either port). See edit above.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

For all the people that have a Catleap and post here, please add yourself to the Club list and OC survey. This information helps a ton of other people when trying to decide what to do.

Thanks again!









EDIT: Clearly, I didn't get to the OP and make the additions/changes I wanted to this weekend (heck just got on and had to read through another 80 posts!) I am culling all the data out - even the card issues, display crap for laptops, etc - and will get that all in one place over the next few days. Going in the spa with some vino! Cheers all!


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Your HD 5850 should run a catleap just fine. I am running my Catleap off of my HD 5770. The HD 5850 has the exactly same port layout as HD 5770.


Yeah but it is important for me to get into the bios with ease. Does it have a VGA port on the monitor? If it does I can have both connected and when I need to go into the bios I can just change inputs.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Yeah but it is important for me to get into the bios with ease. Does it have a VGA port on the monitor? If it does I can have both connected and when I need to go into the bios I can just change inputs.


Nope no vga.

EDIT: well for the base models. The multi input does.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You don't need an adapter. Your GTX 580 should run a Catleap just fine.
> Your HD 5850 should run a catleap just fine. I am running my Catleap off of my HD 5770. The HD 5850 has the exactly same port layout as HD 5770.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You do not have 2 Dual Link DVI's on your HD 5850, you have one *SL*-DVI and one *DL*-DVI. DVI-*I* or DVI-*D*, it makes no difference whatsoever. I would ignore anything that refers to DVI-I/D/A at the moment; your card doesn't have DVI-A ports anyways.
> The only thing you need to know is that your card has a DL-DVI port (the "bottom" one, most likely. the one in line with the other ports), and as long as you run your catleap to that one, it will display a proper, 2560x1440 picture. If you feel like blowing $100 on a DP-> Dual-link DVI adapter, that is also an option (it just costs more). It is almost certain you do not need it.
> Incompatibility issues are either non-existant, or have to do with something other than port connectivity.


Dude I checked and it two dual links..but anyhow I appreciate your input and the fact that you say i wont have issues connecting it... i really don't want to buy the cable if I don't have to, it kinda defeats the purpose of getting this monitor for $360-400 in the first place... for 150 more I can get the HP.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Really, Just to be sure, you say the same ports as the 5850, so you have two dual link dvi-i's? or do you have one dvi-d?
> I guess I can take the catleap and find out for myself. (no pun intended
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> Worst case scenario I just get the Displayport to dual link dvi-d, right?
> Thanks for the help.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Dude I checked and it two dual links..but anyhow I appreciate your input and the fact that you say i wont have issues connecting it... i really don't want to buy the cable if I don't have to, it kinda defeats the purpose of getting this monitor for $360-400 in the first place... for 150 more I can get the HP.


Only the physical pinout is for DL-DVI. It is the actual graphical subsystem of the entire HD 5xxx series that does not support 2x DL-DVI outputs; they simply cannot do it electronically, whatever the ports themselves are physically keyed for.EDIT: Nothing I could find could corraborate this statement. Seems I remembered something wrong. It applies to the HD 6xxx series of cards, but does not seem to apply to the HD 5xxx series of cards.

You don't need 2x DL-DVI ports. You only need one DL-DVI port to run the Catleap @ 1440p.


----------



## bastage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Dude I checked and it two dual links..but anyhow I appreciate your input and the fact that you say i wont have issues connecting it... i really don't want to buy the cable if I don't have to, it kinda defeats the purpose of getting this monitor for $360-400 in the first place... for 150 more I can get the HP.


The hp for 5-550? I have seen it at 650 on up..


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> Yeah but it is important for me to get into the bios with ease. Does it have a VGA port on the monitor? If it does I can have both connected and when I need to go into the bios I can just change inputs.


I don't know about the specifics, but I can attest to my catleap (version 2B with the 120hz capable controller board), combined with my HD 5770, can and does get into BIOS without any issues. I'm staring at it now (posting on a laptop).

Edit: as a matter of fact it works better than my U2312hm hooked up via displayport. My catleap consistently shows the BIOS ~300-400 ms faster than the U2312hm.


----------



## KaRLiToS

*Is the monitor stand of the Catleap really that bad ?*

The crossover seems to have better stand but its 30$ more expensive


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Is the monitor stand of the Catleap really that bad ?
> The crossover seems to have better stand but its 30$ more expensive


It's pretty bad. Then again, my comparison is with the stand on my U2312hm, which is excellent, and the monitor arm I've got the Catleap hooked up to right now, an Ergotron MX, which is a monster. It just... feels flimsy.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bastage*
> 
> The hp for 5-550? I have seen it at 650 on up..


http://www.macmall.com/p/HP-Monitors/product~dpno~8942064~pdp.gjgigec

$506 for the oepn-box, they still had some in-stock as of Friday...


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Only the physical pinout is for DL-DVI. It is the actual graphical subsystem of the entire HD 5xxx series that does not support 2x DL-DVI outputs; they simply cannot do it electronically, whatever the ports themselves are physically keyed for.
> You don't need 2x DL-DVI ports. You only need one DL-DVI port to run the Catleap @ 1440p.


Awesome. Great info. Thanks again.


----------



## teesee150

My multi hits 95hz but drops frames like crazy. It's still running at 60hz or just over.

*EDIT*

To clarify, I have a C model. Set Vsync on in a couple games, showed I was getting well over 60fps, but the game was insanely choppy, this is due to frames being dropped. I could tell frames were being dropped for sure for everything over 70hz. I assume they are being dropped between 65 and 70 as well, just not as easy to detect to my eyes.

I also used this tool: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433

It dropped frames like crazy on that as well. I'm thinking the multi monitor will let you 'overclock' it but it drops frames. I'm running a GTX 570


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Just received a response from one of the many PCB suppliers stating the PCBs we need are not in stock and they are unsure of when they will be.

I will continue to work with getting a set from the manufacturer and sourcing the gerber files/materials list. I should know something tomorrow sometime whether that will be happening.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> I own a Asus ENGTX580 DCII/2DIS/1536MD5 which does not have DVI-D. Its has a D-Sub Max Resolution of 2048x1536 and a DVI Max Resolution of 2560x1600. If I purchased a HDMI to DVI-D adapter or a display port to DVI-D adapter, would I get full resolution if not what would be a alternative?


You can just run a dvi-d cable to either of the dvi ports and you'll be fine. I have two of the exact same card and have had no problems at all running it at full resolution at 65mhz ( i got a 2c model so thats the max it will go ).


----------



## BBGunWB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teesee150*
> 
> My multi hits 95hz but drops frames like crazy. It's still running at 60hz or just over.
> *EDIT*
> To clarify, I have a C model. Set Vsync on in a couple games, showed I was getting well over 60fps, but the game was insanely choppy, this is due to frames being dropped. I could tell frames were being dropped for sure for everything over 70hz. I assume they are being dropped between 65 and 70 as well, just not as easy to detect to my eyes.
> I also used this tool: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433
> It dropped frames like crazy on that as well. I'm thinking the multi monitor will let you 'overclock' it but it drops frames. I'm running a GTX 570


Excellent info. Thanks!

BB


----------



## HossWTC

I have a 5850 and I can connect the Catleap to either DVI port. I have an OEM 5850 ("Manufacturer: Built by AMD"). Both of the ports on my card appear to be DL-DVI. Unfortunately, I do not get a BIOS screen or the "Loading Windows" screen when booting into Win7.

I didn't expect to stay with the 5850 for long after getting the Catleap though. No way the 5850 can push games at this resolution.

I ordered a GTX680 on Friday.


----------



## Risk64

Shouldn't at least come up an '1:1 centered' picture on custom resolutions? Is it strictly GPU dependent? Anyone have tested a GeForce 8800 yet for BIOS resolution?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

The catleap ran fine off a xfx 5870. I tested it earlier for a member.


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HossWTC*
> 
> I have a 5850 and I can connect the Catleap to either DVI port. I have an OEM 5850 ("Manufacturer: Built by AMD"). Both of the ports on my card appear to be DL-DVI. Unfortunately, I do not get a BIOS screen or the "Loading Windows" screen when booting into Win7.
> I didn't expect to stay with the 5850 for long after getting the Catleap though. No way the 5850 can push games at this resolution.
> I ordered a GTX680 on Friday.


Yup I figured If i'm getting 40-50 fps on High @ 1080p wiith a single 5850 and a phenom at 3.8 GHz on BF3... I probably will drop below 30 at 1440p. Wondering what CPU are you planning to run with the 680? Do you think a phenom will bottleneck the 680 or would I have to get an i5 2.5k along with it?

thanks for any input


----------



## illli

i decided to do a little digging on my own about this pcb stuff. i don't know how useful any of this will be and might already have gotten this info already.

firstly, that model number LM270WQ1-SLA1 for the OC pcb seems to refer to a 10bit panel (actually 8 bit + frc) so logic would dictate that the SLA1 pcb would go with SLA1 panel

from this list here http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm
there seems to be a few similar models:

LM270WQ1-SD*A2* (5ms G2G , 1000:1, 16.7M (8-bit) 77%)
LM270WQ1-SD*DA* (12ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b sRGB)
LM270W*Q1*-SLA1 (6ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) 77%)
LM270W*Q2*-SLA1 (5ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) 102%)

but it gets stranger b/c in the pictures of the OC panel from the first post, the back of the lcd is for the SDE3 panel.

with more digging i found info on SDE3.. but it is an 8-bit panel with ed4 (4 lane)
http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=14391

vs. SLA1 panel http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=13657 10-bit & Signal interface: lvds 4ch

it is strange how the SDE3 panel came with components for the SLA1. so maybe they are just using whatever parts they had on hand?

oh and, i found this http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493 it is a different model number, but maybe it could be compatible.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illli*
> 
> i decided to do a little digging on my own about this pcb stuff. i don't know how useful any of this will be and might already have gotten this info already.
> firstly, that model number LM270WQ1-SLA1 for the OC pcb seems to refer to a 10bit panel (actually 8 bit + frc) so logic would dictate that the SLA1 pcb would go with SLA1 panel
> from this list here http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm
> there seems to be a few similar models:
> LM270WQ1-SD*A2* (5ms G2G , 1000:1, 16.7M (8-bit) 77%)
> LM270WQ1-SD*DA* (12ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b sRGB)
> LM270W*Q1*-SLA1 (6ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) 77%)
> LM270W*Q2*-SLA1 (5ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) 102%)
> but it gets stranger b/c in the pictures of the OC panel from the first post, the back of the lcd is for the SDE3 panel.
> with more digging i found info on SDE3.. but it is an 8-bit panel with ed4 (4 lane)
> http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=14391
> vs. SLA1 panel http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=13657 10-bit & Signal interface: lvds 4ch
> it is strange how the SDE3 panel came with components for the SLA1. so maybe they are just using whatever parts they had on hand?
> oh and, i found this http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493 it is a different model number, but maybe it could be compatible.


My understanding of the difference between the Q1 and Q2 is that the Q1 uses an LED backlight, and the Q2 uses a CCFL. About the other differences, the majority of it simply seems to be the timing controller board attached to the panel; SD units seem to use eDP and SL units use LVDS. Within those variants I'm not sure; it may just be different runs, or it may be FRC or non-FRC.... doesn't make a big difference either way I suspect. What's most confusing is that despite these general rules (that the datasheets corroborate) we have seen a number of panels in these threads that seem to violate those rules; for example, Scribby's LVDS panel is labeled as SD. I get the feeling the manufacturers are playing the old swappy-swappy game with various bits and pieces sometimes to get working units; we've even seen some panels labeled "for evaluation only" O_O


----------



## alricking

anyone know if this arm mount would hold this Catleap well or maybe 2 of it at once?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Chief-K-Series-KCD110B-Dual-Swing-Arm-Desk-Mount-Flat-Panel-TVs-Black-/390398539339?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5ae590f64b#ht_1716wt_1144


----------



## kevinsbane

About the DL-DVI/SL-DVI ports on the HD 5xxx series, I think I'm wrong when I said that the HD 5xxx series only has one DL-DVI port. Only certain members of the HD 5xxx series explicitly only have 1 DL-DVI port (HD 5770 Sapphire FLEX being one).

I think I mixed it up with the 6xxx series, which do only have one DL-DVI port. Sorry about that scatlm. I've made appropriate edits to my posts to edit out erroneous information.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> You can just run a dvi-d cable to either of the dvi ports and you'll be fine. I have two of the exact same card and have had no problems at all running it at full resolution at 65mhz ( i got a 2c model so thats the max it will go ).


Would I be able to use both DVI-I ports to get max resolution to 2 Yamakasi monitors? If not I am assuming I would need to run 2 GTX 580's in SLI? Forgive my lack of knowledge I am still learning, Thanks!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Would I be able to use both DVI-I ports to get max resolution to 2 Yamakasi monitors? If not I am assuming I would need to run 2 GTX 580's in SLI? Forgive my lack of knowledge I am still learning, Thanks!


Yes, 2 Catleaps will work properly with a single GTX 580.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Yes, 2 Catleaps will work properly with a single GTX 580.


Awesome!
Thanks for the feedback!


----------



## hybridtracer

I was thinking of ordering three more of these bad boys, anyone know if it's a good idea to contact the sellers directly to negotiate a better price? Anyone recommend a way of doing it to ensure your money isn't stolen?


----------



## HossWTC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Yup I figured If i'm getting 40-50 fps on High @ 1080p wiith a single 5850 and a phenom at 3.8 GHz on BF3... I probably will drop below 30 at 1440p. Wondering what CPU are you planning to run with the 680? Do you think a phenom will bottleneck the 680 or would I have to get an i5 2.5k along with it?
> thanks for any input


I have an i7-860 @ 2.8GHz (not 'clocked, I know, shame







) on an eVGA P55 FTW. I hope that's enough to feed the 680. If not, this "cheap" 27 inch monitor just got real expensive...


----------



## marketermac

So I just got mine today, got it all hooked up and...the colors are crazy off and I can't figure out how to fix them.

I've tried using the windows calibration tool with no luck. All of my blacks appear as blue. Moving the slides around (in the windows calibration, no idea how to bring them up with just the monitor buttons??) doesn't even come close to correcting the issue.

I've also tried all three of the profiles in the OP with no luck in getting rid of this blue problem. I have it next to my Dell 3011 which and it's not even just a subtle difference, blacks are very clearly shown as blue.

So did I get a lemon or is there something silly I'm missing....


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marketermac*
> 
> So I just got mine today, got it all hooked up and...the colors are crazy off and I can't figure out how to fix them.
> 
> I've tried using the windows calibration tool with no luck. All of my blacks appear as blue. Moving the slides around (in the windows calibration, no idea how to bring them up with just the monitor buttons??) doesn't even come close to correcting the issue.
> 
> I've also tried all three of the profiles in the OP with no luck in getting rid of this blue problem. I have it next to my Dell 3011 which and it's not even just a subtle difference, blacks are very clearly shown as blue.
> 
> So did I get a lemon or is there something silly I'm missing....


pics please


----------



## Spongeworthy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marketermac*
> 
> So I just got mine today, got it all hooked up and...the colors are crazy off and I can't figure out how to fix them.
> I've tried using the windows calibration tool with no luck. All of my blacks appear as blue. Moving the slides around (in the windows calibration, no idea how to bring them up with just the monitor buttons??) doesn't even come close to correcting the issue.
> I've also tried all three of the profiles in the OP with no luck in getting rid of this blue problem. I have it next to my Dell 3011 which and it's not even just a subtle difference, blacks are very clearly shown as blue.
> So did I get a lemon or is there something silly I'm missing....


Open up Nvidia control panel, and configure the colors from there.


----------



## marketermac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> pics please


It's from my camera phone -

The desktop is a solid black (which you can clearly see on my lower monitor) and appears bright blue on the upper monitor (the catleap).


----------



## brzyski75

Re: compatibility on a 5850. I have a 5850 and it works fine except the BIOS won't display. I thought it wasn't working at first so I was making sure it was connected/wiggling cables around an then it popped on. I thought it was a bad wire but now I understand that it just won't display any bios info. Kinda sucks but I am upgrading anyway. As far a gaming goes, I have been playing Stalker COP, RAGE, Skyrim, Portal etc at a decent framerate. The Witcher 2 is a different story however. All in all, I am impressed with how the 5850 keeps up.


----------



## marketermac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> pics please


It's from my camera phone -

The desktop is a solid black (which you can clearly see on my lower monitor) and appears bright blue on the upper monitor (the catleap).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> Open up Nvidia control panel, and configure the colors from there.


I need to update my sig rig, got a 7970. In any event, tried to adjust the colors in CCC and it doesn't do anything to the horrid blue, just changes the tint of it.


----------



## munaim1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marketermac*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *munaim1*
> 
> pics please
> 
> 
> 
> It's from my camera phone -
> 
> The desktop is a solid black (which you can clearly see on my lower monitor) and appears bright blue on the upper monitor (the catleap).
Click to expand...

Connect only the Catleap and one gpu and see what happens. Also try and install the the gpu drivers again or roll back to a previous one.


----------



## Mr Ripper

When colours are out and completely washed out by Red, Green or Blue (RGB) in my experience it's usually a connector or cable issue. Try a different cable if you have another DVI-D or you may have to check the connection internally so make sure it's all intact correctly.


----------



## marketermac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> When colours are out and completely washed out by Red, Green or Blue (RGB) in my experience it's usually a connector or cable issue. Try a different cable if you have another DVI-D or you may have to check the connection internally so make sure it's all intact correctly.


This was actually it. It's the Asus DCii DVI connectors. Using one of the connectors (which works fine with my dell 2007fp) creates that blue mess. Using the other connector created my black mess. Didn't think to pull all the cables out and replug them in, but thats when I discovered this. Thanks and +Rep!!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illli*
> 
> i decided to do a little digging on my own about this pcb stuff. i don't know how useful any of this will be and might already have gotten this info already.
> firstly, that model number LM270WQ1-SLA1 for the OC pcb seems to refer to a 10bit panel (actually 8 bit + frc) so logic would dictate that the SLA1 pcb would go with SLA1 panel
> from this list here http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm
> there seems to be a few similar models:
> LM270WQ1-SD*A2* (5ms G2G , 1000:1, 16.7M (8-bit) 77%)
> LM270WQ1-SD*DA* (12ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b sRGB)
> LM270W*Q1*-SLA1 (6ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) 77%)
> LM270W*Q2*-SLA1 (5ms G2G, 1000:1, 1.07b (8-bit+A-FRC) 102%)
> but it gets stranger b/c in the pictures of the OC panel from the first post, the back of the lcd is for the SDE3 panel.
> with more digging i found info on SDE3.. but it is an 8-bit panel with ed4 (4 lane)
> http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=14391
> vs. SLA1 panel http://www.panelook.com/modeldetail.php?id=13657 10-bit & Signal interface: lvds 4ch
> it is strange how the SDE3 panel came with components for the SLA1. so maybe they are just using whatever parts they had on hand?
> oh and, i found this http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13406346493 it is a different model number, but maybe it could be compatible.


We have been over this early on and the truth is the panel doesn't matter at all. There are numerous panels out there with different designations in all of the Achievas, Crossovers, and Catleaps. It comes down to the PCBs. I have two different panels and swapping the PCBs got me to 100hz in both. As I have stated throughout the thread, these are grab bag parts added to these panels, which is why it is so difficult to nail down one particular part!

I doubt there would be much warranty support even if you lived in Korea. I imagine the scenario would be drop off broken monitor, returned with all different PCBs - whatever they had on hand to make it work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> I was thinking of ordering three more of these bad boys, anyone know if it's a good idea to contact the sellers directly to negotiate a better price? Anyone recommend a way of doing it to ensure your money isn't stolen?


Seriously? I don't think you can get a better price (other than maybe $5-10 of per if that?) Think about it. These retail for $250 in Korea. You're getting it shipped to your door (in a week!) for less than $400 (not sure where prices are now, but I think they are in the $360-$380 range.) That's a STEAL. Shipping EMS from Korea to the US is about $125-$150. Not sure what price point you are hoping for, but these really won't be any cheaper since over a third of the cost is shipping.


----------



## sinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> I was thinking of ordering three more of these bad boys, anyone know if it's a good idea to contact the sellers directly to negotiate a better price? Anyone recommend a way of doing it to ensure your money isn't stolen?


You can definitely get a better price if you buy tree of them. I think it's much cheaper to ship 1x3 monitors than 3x1.
Email some of the sellers about it and see which one gives you the best offer.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brzyski75*
> 
> Re: compatibility on a 5850. I have a 5850 and it works fine except the BIOS won't display. I thought it wasn't working at first so I was making sure it was connected/wiggling cables around an then it popped on. I thought it was a bad wire but now I understand that it just won't display any bios info. Kinda sucks but I am upgrading anyway. As far a gaming goes, I have been playing Stalker COP, RAGE, Skyrim, Portal etc at a decent framerate. The Witcher 2 is a different story however. All in all, I am impressed with how the 5850 keeps up.


There has to be a cheaper fix for this than buying a $100 adapter. I use my bios way too often not to find this annoying.


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Seriously? I don't think you can get a better price (other than maybe $5-10 of per if that?) Think about it. These retail for $250 in Korea. You're getting it shipped to your door (in a week!) for less than $400 (not sure where prices are now, but I think they are in the $360-$380 range.) That's a STEAL. Shipping EMS from Korea to the US is about $125-$150. Not sure what price point you are hoping for, but these really won't be any cheaper since over a third of the cost is shipping.


Well i figured shipping three separately would cost much more than 3 all at once and there might be savings on customs as well as ebay fees. I was wondering if anyone had experience with this and how to go about it without ebay?


----------



## marketermac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Well i figured shipping three separately would cost much more than 3 all at once and there might be savings on customs as well as ebay fees. I was wondering if anyone had experience with this and how to go about it without ebay?


Just use PayPal to directly pay the seller. Should still get all the protection (less ebay feedback, of course) and have much less fee's on the sellers end to save you a few bucks.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Well i figured shipping three separately would cost much more than 3 all at once and there might be *savings on customs* as well as ebay fees. I was wondering if anyone had experience with this and how to go about it without ebay?


Unfortunately, you're more likely to hit with extra costs at customs than any savings. The government always wants their cut, and the more they can get, the better (for them)...


----------



## brzyski75

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> There has to be a cheaper fix for this than buying a $100 adapter. I use my bios way too often not to find this annoying.


What fix are you referring to? Not that I am interested in spending $100 to fix it... easier to just put the money toward a new video card. I was thinking that maybe if you hook an old monitor up there is some kind of bios setting that might make it readable?


----------



## Teiji

Hello, new user here.









Ok, I just ordered the no tempered and no speaker version from dcsamsungmall. Does anyone know if they'll include the power converter cable (?) (Korean to US power cable) like green-sum that I've been reading?

I have a really suck gpu (Geforce GT 230....yep I'm not really a serious gamer) and the manual ( http://h18000.www1.hp.com/products/quickspecs/13413_div/13413_div.PDF ) says that it has dual link DVI and supports up to [email protected] resolution. But will it has any noticeable lag for general usage, watching HD movies, and video editing using After Effects at such high resolution?

And finally, does anyone know if we can buy a stand like the Dell U2410 or 2412m and attach it to this Catleap monitor?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Hello, new user here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ok, I just ordered the no tempered and no speaker version from dcsamsungmall. Does anyone know if they'll include the power converter cable (?) (Korean to US power cable) like green-sum that I've been reading?
> I have a really suck gpu (Geforce GT 230....yep I'm not really a serious gamer) and the manual ( http://h18000.www1.hp.com/products/quickspecs/13413_div/13413_div.PDF ) says that it has dual link DVI and supports up to [email protected] resolution. But will it has any noticeable lag for general usage, watching HD movies, and video editing using After Effects at such high resolution?
> And finally, does anyone know if we can buy a stand like the Dell U2410 or 2412m and attach it to this Catleap monitor?


WELCOME! There is no need for a converter so just any three prong power cable works. I am not sure if that cable will be in there (it isn't from the manufacturer.) A small percentage of people have reported bad power bricks, but again that has been a very small number (I can only recall a couple.)

The 230 should be fine for everything you need to do (I have 2 on a 250 for now.)

As far as stands go, you would need to know how that stand is mounted to see if it can match up to the current mounts. See the OP for all the questions you may have.


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Catleap is great if not defected, as I Read. But make sure you get a buyer who ships fast.
> Mine is sitting at :
> 
> >"Handed over to Air carrier" INCHEON<
> 
> (which is the Currier in South Korea)
> So basically it hasn't left the country yet, it just sits there for the last 3+ days. Anyone had the same problem?
> Makes me anxious tracking my Catleap each day and finding that there has been no change.


I thought my monitor was doing that, then I looked it up on Track-Trace EMS and saw it was actually in NY, while the other was showing it in Incheon.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Hi
did anyone have problems with the delivery?
Because my parcel has been stuck at INCHEON since the 23/3
Is this normal?


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaktfarfar*
> 
> Hi
> did anyone have problems with the delivery?
> Because my parcel has been stuck at INCHEON since the 23/3
> Is this normal?


Same thing man, been like that for 4 days.

I'm paranoid about it.

Ordered from Green-sum.

And Jagz, that is the site I track my monitor, and it still shows me the same message that it's in INCHEON for last 4 days.


----------



## Teiji

Thanks ScribbyDaGreat.

Anyone know the weight of this monitor? The spec in the OP doesn't seem to list it (or maybe I'm blind).


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slaktfarfar*
> 
> Hi
> did anyone have problems with the delivery?
> Because my parcel has been stuck at INCHEON since the 23/3
> Is this normal?


It says this for a few days but when it updates expect your monitor in a day or two. I received my monitor in a day and a half to my door on the east coast US after it updated on the tracker. Once it list a flight number you can track the flight. No reason to worry yet.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Same thing man, been like that for 4 days.
> I'm paranoid about it.
> Ordered from Green-sum.
> And Jagz, that is the site I track my monitor, and it still shows me the same message that it's in INCHEON for last 4 days.


I also ordered from Green-sum
says like this:

19:19 22-Mar-2012 Posting/Collection DJ. YUSEONG
Posting office zip code : 305301
Destination country : SWEDEN
04:21 23-Mar-2012 Arrival at outward office of exchange INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE
07:49 23-Mar-2012 Departure from outward office of exchange INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE
Handed over to Air carrier INCHEON


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> It says this for a few days but when it updates expect your monitor in a day or two. I received my monitor in a day and a half to my door on the east coast US after it updated on the tracker. Once it list a flight number you can track the flight. No reason to worry yet.


Good to hear. But i really hope i could get it before this weekend


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Thanks ScribbyDaGreat.
> Anyone know the weight of this monitor? The spec in the OP doesn't seem to list it (or maybe I'm blind).


About 15 - 22 lbs. Not sure really it lists 2 weights on the website - 7kgs and 10kgs followed by Korean.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> About 15 - 22 lbs. Not sure really it lists 2 weights on the website - 7kgs and 10kgs followed by Korean.


My guess is it's 7kg for the monitor, and 10kg for the whole box with everything in it.


----------



## SkyPC

Hmmm, I got a similar message as you Slaktafarfar.

I am ordering from Estonia, so our monitors might be flight buddies.


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Hmmm, I got a similar message as you Slaktafarfar.
> I am ordering from Estonia, so our monitors might be flight buddies.


Maybe theres less flights to europe then to the us?


----------



## Teiji

I hope you're right about the 7kg for the monitor, siberx. I'm thinking of getting the ERGOTRON 45-241-026 LX Desk Mount LCD Arm ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-994-063 ). Listing says it supports <= 24" LCD with a max weight of 20 lbs, but several reviews (Newegg and Amazon) says they got their 27" monitor attached just fine. Anyone has any experience with this arm/stand?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> I hope you're right about the 7kg for the monitor, siberx. I'm thinking of getting the ERGOTRON 45-241-026 LX Desk Mount LCD Arm ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-994-063 ). Listing says it supports <= 24" LCD with a max weight of 20 lbs, but several reviews (Newegg and Amazon) says they got their 27" monitor attached just fine. Anyone has any experience with this arm/stand?


I'm pretty sure a few guys have bought this stand; it apparently works alright, but it's a touch short to comfortably do portrait mode (I think it barely works, and touches the edge). In terms of holding up the monitor in landscape I think it works just fine.


----------



## Talfrey

Tired of waiting on the OC.net model.

Putting in an order for one of these.

Thinking about getting a mount. I see the one above, anything cheaper anyone else is using that seems to work well?

Thanks for any advice.


----------



## gibsy

I'm pretty sure someone has already 3xCatleap q270 for their setup..Come on guys!!share your pictures/videos!!wanna see this beast!


----------



## scatlm

Bahhh if you're going to spend $100 plus on a mount why not just go with an HP... it kinda defeats the purpose of saving money and you get a very nice sturdy stock-mount. This is of-course my opinion... Im sure some people prefer the wall mount even if they had the Dell/HP.


----------



## Teiji

These 2 seems good for the price:

3M Easy-Adjust Monitor Stand (MS110MB)
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Easy-Adjust-Monitor-Stand-MS110MB/dp/B0013CD0DI/ref=cm_srch_res_rtr_1

Ergotron Neo-Flex LCD Stand
http://www.amazon.com/Ergotron-33-310-060-Neo-Flex-LCD-Stand/dp/B000FLXW90/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


----------



## marketermac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> I hope you're right about the 7kg for the monitor, siberx. I'm thinking of getting the ERGOTRON 45-241-026 LX Desk Mount LCD Arm ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=24-994-063 ). Listing says it supports <= 24" LCD with a max weight of 20 lbs, but several reviews (Newegg and Amazon) says they got their 27" monitor attached just fine. Anyone has any experience with this arm/stand?


I am using this stand right now on my catleap with zero issues (all though make sure you read the directions to take apart the back arch in the OP, it was a pain to get the monitor VESA ready, took like 45 minutes for me).

Also, both of my 27" monitors are mounted to this arm and can go portrait mode with about 5" from the bottom of the monitor to my desk (when I move it as high up as the arm will allow). No problems at all.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Can someone please test the flickering by taking a photo as described here (takes like 5 minutes): PWM Article. I'd like to buy one of these, but I need to know if it flickers since it will give me migraines every day.

Thanks!


----------



## Adhunt

Well mine arrived yesterday, the SE model, very happy with it, here are my first impressions:

- screen clarity and colour vibrance is amazing, makes my old Benq GLXXXHM 24" look like a POS
- stand's a POS... wobbly but satisfactory for holding it up
- power brick worked fine on the australian 240V all I had to do was change the power cable
- no dead pixels that I have seen
- works great on my 580 3GB - BF3 going up to 1440 from 1080 only dropped the FPS by about 5-10 with all settings still on ultra
- oddly, I can watch a fullscreen video on my secondary, 1080 monitor when playing LoL but it doesn't seem to work when playing BF3
- screen may have a slight green tinge to it, only noticable when comparing to the secondary monitor
- green-sum is a great seller, good communication, well packed and fast delivery


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Bahhh if you're going to spend $100 plus on a mount why not just go with an HP... it kinda defeats the purpose of saving money and you get a very nice sturdy stock-mount. This is of-course my opinion... Im sure some people prefer the wall mount even if they had the Dell/HP.


My wall mounts were $20. Love 'em!


----------



## avattz

I read the entire thread and I remember reading something about putting DisplayPort boards on these monitors, is that going to happen or are they only purchasing the 100Hz boards?


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> I read the entire thread and I remember reading something about putting DisplayPort boards on these monitors, is that going to happen or are they only purchasing the 100Hz boards?


I also wanna know this. I remember a photo with a caption... 'display port maybe' or something along the line.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I am not working on DPBoards - not sure if anyone else is.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

*Another call for Catleap owners to complete both the owner and OC surveys. It really helps everyone out (plus, I get PMs daily asking questions - which I don't mind, just a larger source file there would be VERY helpful to those trying to decide between Catleaps and the other brands.)*

*Thanks







*


----------



## scatlm

Scribby... those are two catleaps in the center (and top-center) and two samsungs on the sides?

Also what mount are you using.. $20 does sound much much better.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Scribby... those are two catleaps in the center (and top-center) and two samsungs on the sides?
> Also what mount are you using.. $20 does sound much much better.


Of course those are Catleaps in the center!!!! Yes, two little Samsungs I think 2223s? Don't recall. Those were the four I sold. Cannot recall the model on those "little" guys.

Here's what I used - these are great:

*CLICKY*

Price went up to $25! Free shipping with Amazon Prime (I LOVE me some Prime.)


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Ok posting pics to join the club.

I have a 2b1 model. Havent really tried to overclock it because im not quite sure how. Also a bit worried because im not sure what the long term effects could be.
Overall im pretty satisfied with the display however I have one dead pixel but its not a huge deal. Not very noticeable.
I rate it a 9/10
For the price im very satisfied.
Definitely takes more GPU power to muscle through games at this resolution. Im thinking of getting another 7950.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

@munckinpuncher - LOL! I KNEW I recognized your name and avatar! You helped me with the speaker issue! I now have the same amp (and probably speakers - I cannot see yours - Daytons?) That 12" subwoofer is a BEAST. I should have checked the measurements before I ordered it - it's a serious piece of furniture and rattles my poor dog's ears.

BTW - How am I going to get the tester Catleap if you cover up your card like that?!?!?!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have finalized my source for the PCBs (no they are not in stock - they have to be made) and will be disassembling my OC monitor in the am to send the PCBs to get the gerber files/materials list done up - don't worry I will hit you all up for an extra $2 when I sell them back to you to cover the R&D expenses!!

Once they have them in hand it will take about 1-3 days to finish that file and get costs. The more we order, the cheaper it will be. Stay tuned.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> @munckinpuncher - LOL! I KNEW I recognized your name and avatar! You helped me with the speaker issue! I now have the same amp (and probably speakers - I cannot see yours - Daytons?) That 12" subwoofer is a BEAST. I should have checked the measurements before I ordered it - it's a serious piece of furniture and rattles my poor dog's ears.
> 
> BTW - How am I going to get the tester Catleap if you cover up your card like that?!?!?!


Hey!









Yeah I have the Dayton B652's same as you I believe and I love the DTA-100a amp!

And lol I forgot I had my credit card in this pic had to cover that up real quick, as much as I would like to donate a Catleap to you !









I leave it by the pc cause thats where all my money goes.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have finalized my source for the PCBs (no they are not in stock - they have to be made) and will be disassembling my OC monitor in the am to send the PCBs to get the gerber files/materials list done up - don't worry I will hit you all up for an extra $2 when I sell them back to you to cover the R&D expenses!!
> 
> Once they have them in hand it will take about 1-3 days to finish that file and get costs. The more we order, the cheaper it will be. Stay tuned.


Oh boy oh boy oh boy









So you've actually found a supplier that will reproduce both the DVI board and the T-con?


----------



## verick

Well, I took a chance and ordered a catleap with tempered glass from red-cap, hoping that I would get a 2b model, since someone reported getting one from him. I ordered on the 16th, he didn't ship it till the 23rd, and it arrived today. To my disappointment it is a 2c model, so I am counting on Scribby to get the pcbs. There are no dead pixels that I can see, but I haven't looked to closely, unfortunately there are significant dust globs behind the glass. Another issue is when looking at an all white screen there seems to be a darkish shadow about an inch thick going across the screen at the very bottom, it is so faint that it doesn't really bother me though.

When I was reading all the threads I took note of everyone saying what a bad stand it has, but words cannot describe how bad it is, it wobbles if I sneeze too hard. I will replace it asap.

To the people asking about the ati 5850, everything displays fine on mine, including the bios. I also tried the PWM test, and I honestly could not get clear cycles. If I had to compare the pictures to the article, it looks like the 2009 macbook, so I don't know if I am just doing it horribly wrong or what.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I had almost a dozen companies reply to my RFQ on the boards, only one so far says they can source the cables. I am hoping this is not a bait and switch deal. Emailing "Angela" as we speak (back and forth back and forth) to nail down exactly my cost for the gerber files and materials list and how they plan on sourcing the cables.

I am told they can do this in as little as 1 day (file and list) and get me a cost on the second or third day.

Again, my real concern are the cables. I am sure they can sub-contract that out to another company and probably would be easy for them to do so and make a buck or two in the process.

I will miss my OC Catleap though!!!


----------



## kevinsbane

Scribby, I still haven't managed to get my monitor profiles to stick. Every single time I get out of a SC2 game, my monitors are still back at default profiles. It's driving my nuts!

Supposedly, Monitor Calibration Wizard is supposed to help, but I can't figure out how to use it (either that, or it simply isn't working for me).


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verick*
> 
> Well, I took a chance and ordered a catleap with tempered glass from red-cap, hoping that I would get a 2b model, since someone reported getting one from him. I ordered on the 16th, he didn't ship it till the 23rd, and it arrived today. To my disappointment it is a 2c model, so I am counting on Scribby to get the pcbs. There are no dead pixels that I can see, but I haven't looked to closely, unfortunately there are significant dust globs behind the glass. Another issue is when looking at an all white screen there seems to be a darkish shadow about an inch thick going across the screen at the very bottom, it is so faint that it doesn't really bother me though.
> When I was reading all the threads I took note of everyone saying what a bad stand it has, but words cannot describe how bad it is, it wobbles if I sneeze too hard. I will replace it asap.
> To the people asking about the ati 5850, everything displays fine on mine, including the bios. I also tried the PWM test, and I honestly could not get clear cycles. If I had to compare the pictures to the article, it looks like the 2009 macbook, so I don't know if I am just doing it horribly wrong or what.


How can your display work (bios) with the 5850 but others don't? Not sure how some can work and others can't.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Verick have you tried tapping on the glass to see if you can get the dust to drop yet? I heard some others had success with that.


----------



## erocker

There's many 5850's out there that use many different components in their builds.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

My QUOTE doesn't seem to work all of a sudden!

To kevin: Weird, I don't seem to have that issue as I reported before. I will try it again in the a.m. and report back. When you say the calibration wizard I assume you mean the windows one? Toasty may be the man to help (or chime in here) since he is the calibration guru!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

CRAAAAP! After pushing my contact big time on the cables she folded and said that they CANNOT make those. So I am back at square one for that.

Anyone with a line on a company that can do the cabling? I will keep looking and in the meantime I will still send out the PCBs to be reverse engineered. At least I will have that bit in hand and ready to go.


----------



## verick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> How can your display work (bios) with the 5850 but others don't? Not sure how some can work and others can't.


I have an OEM 5850, so maybe other companies mucked with the card somehow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Verick have you tried tapping on the glass to see if you can get the dust to drop yet? I heard some others had success with that.


Didn't work, I am going to try and get it off to clean it.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> My QUOTE doesn't seem to work all of a sudden!
> 
> To kevin: Weird, I don't seem to have that issue as I reported before. I will try it again in the a.m. and report back. When you say the calibration wizard I assume you mean the windows one? Toasty may be the man to help (or chime in here) since he is the calibration guru!


Ok, I think I may have gotten my profiles to stick with powerstrip (was a pain figuring out how to do it...) I will post how I did it when I have a little more time to document it, and validate it. Apparently only works with ATI cards?

Monitor Calibration Wizard is a small program that's supposed to store and refresh your calibration every so often so nothing overwrites it.


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verick*
> 
> I have an OEM 5850, so maybe other companies mucked with the card somehow.


I have two Asus reference cards.


----------



## thyroid

Could anyone tell me what the input lag is (if it's known)?

"Yes, it's fine for gaming. Due to the lack of any extra inputs input lag is on par with a 720p TV." This doesn't tell me anything :\

Edit: I did some searching and as long as it's just the dual-link dvi connector there shouldn't be any lag.


----------



## Bacchus451

Just ordered the Q270 SE for $348. Will edit with pics when it arrives


----------



## erocker

There isn't any input lag. I've experienced input lag a long time ago. This doesn't have it.


----------



## Adhunt

Pics from my unboxing:


----------



## HyperMatrix

Been absent for a while. Finally figured out why some games were reverting back to 60hz from 100hz or 120hz. Games running DX10/DX11 would grab the parameters of your monitor from your system/video card. But Direct3D games, whether version 8 like Planetside, or version 9 like COD:MW3, would read from the monitor directly, and fail to see the custom resolution potential. That's all been fixed now though. And ALL games run perfectly fine at the 100hz or 120hz (depending on whether I'm doing SLI or single-card) without any further adjustments required! And my second catleap tempered glass was sent out today.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Forgive me if this has been discussed before. I ordered a Yamakasi Q270 SE from green sum over the weekend. The estimated ship date is April 3rd-April 20th. Green Sum gave me a FedEx tracking number that is invalid. Has this happened before to anyone else? Does shipping take almost a month? Thanks in advance!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Forgive me if this has been discussed before. I ordered a Yamakasi Q270 SE from green sum over the weekend. The estimated ship date is April 3rd-April 20th. Green Sum gave me a FedEx tracking number that is invalid. Has this happened before to anyone else? Does shipping take almost a month? Thanks in advance!


Don't think Green-Sum ships with Fedex....at least he hasn't for the 2 monitors I've ordered over the last month. Enter your tracking number here:

http://www.track-trace.com/post

Or

http://service.epost.go.kr/trace.RetrieveEmsTraceEngTibco.postal


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Don't think Green-Sum ships with Fedex....at least he hasn't for the 2 monitors I've ordered over the last month. Enter your tracking number here:
> http://www.track-trace.com/post
> Or
> http://service.epost.go.kr/trace.RetrieveEmsTraceEngTibco.postal


Here is what was messaged on EBAY

*Dear samuraixzodus,

Hello!

Thank you very much for ordering products from us! We hope you receive the product safely.

If you don't receive the product within a certain period of time, please send me a message.

We will do our best to find out the status of the product with you.

Thank you again.

Have a great day!

The tracking number is _____________

You can check it on:http://www.fedex.com/Tracking

- green-sum
*

I checked track-trace and this is what I got

*Date Status Post office/Airport Details
10:31 27-Mar-2012 Posting/Collection DJ. YUSEONG
Posting office zip code : 305301
Destination country : U.S.A*

Thank you for your help!

Have the typically delivery's been a month?


----------



## PearlJammzz

The issues with 5850 and the BIOS showing for some and not others probably has more to do with the motherboard than the cards. If you have a UEFI BIOS then you can probably see it. If you have the old school style BIOS you probably can't.

Any of you with 5850's confirm/deny? I could have it opposite but this is how I imagine it to work.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verick*
> 
> I also tried the PWM test, and I honestly could not get clear cycles. If I had to compare the pictures to the article, it looks like the 2009 macbook, so I don't know if I am just doing it horribly wrong or what.


If you post the image I'll see what I can get out of it. Also, what version of the monitor do you have?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Here is what was messaged on EBAY
> *Dear samuraixzodus,
> Hello!
> Thank you very much for ordering products from us! We hope you receive the product safely.
> If you don't receive the product within a certain period of time, please send me a message.
> We will do our best to find out the status of the product with you.
> Thank you again.
> Have a great day!
> The tracking number is _____________
> 
> You can check it on:http://www.fedex.com/Tracking
> - green-sum
> *
> I checked track-trace and this is what I got
> *Date Status Post office/Airport Details
> 10:31 27-Mar-2012 Posting/Collection DJ. YUSEONG
> Posting office zip code : 305301
> Destination country : U.S.A*
> Thank you for your help!
> Have the typically delivery's been a month?


Shipping just takes 2-4 days on average. It's getting them to ship it out that took 4 days my first time, and 10 days this time around. But it's also because they just had a large warehouse relocation and have a ton of orders to go through. I got a discount cuz I bought outside of eBay. Tempered glass +speakers model for just $350.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Awesome! Thats great you got such a good discount! Thanks for help HyperMatrix!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## cubanresourceful

Just purchased one of these from eBay, waiting for it to arrive. Got it for 350$, great price if it comes without defects.


----------



## eternal7trance

I'd like to get one of these too, what's the best seller to use?


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> The issues with 5850 and the BIOS showing for some and not others probably has more to do with the motherboard than the cards. If you have a UEFI BIOS then you can probably see it. If you have the old school style BIOS you probably can't.
> Any of you with 5850's confirm/deny? I could have it opposite but this is how I imagine it to work.


This is a good point!


----------



## Mygaffer

Mine has shipped, it is probably leaving Korea today. Thanks to AMD's stupid decision to have only one dual-link DVI port I also have an almost $100 adapter coming too.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> This is a good point!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> The issues with 5850 and the BIOS showing for some and not others probably has more to do with the motherboard than the cards. If you have a UEFI BIOS then you can probably see it. If you have the old school style BIOS you probably can't.
> Any of you with 5850's confirm/deny? I could have it opposite but this is how I imagine it to work.


I am running an i5-750 on old-school BIOS on an HD 5770, 2B Catleap. I can see my BIOS just fine...


----------



## ispano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Been absent for a while. Finally figured out why some games were reverting back to 60hz from 100hz or 120hz. Games running DX10/DX11 would grab the parameters of your monitor from your system/video card. But Direct3D games, whether version 8 like Planetside, or version 9 like COD:MW3, would read from the monitor directly, and fail to see the custom resolution potential. That's all been fixed now though. And ALL games run perfectly fine at the 100hz or 120hz (depending on whether I'm doing SLI or single-card) without any further adjustments required! And my second catleap tempered glass was sent out today.


Would love to know the process of how you got it to work.


----------



## cubanresourceful

I called into eBay so they can credit me a 10% coupon I had for electronics so I actually got this monitor for 315$!









Scratch that...they took it away.







So I still pay 350$.


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> Pics from my unboxing:


In the last pic.... Am I seeing a dead pixel in the lover left corner?


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> In the last pic.... Am I seeing a dead pixel in the lover left corner?


Ignorance is bliss....don't ruin it for others.


----------



## SkyPC

Your right. Sorry man .....


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Figured I'ld finally post some pics of the moniter now. Once taxes come in, going to get 2 more. And if we can ever get those pcb's I'll get all three moniters OC







!


----------



## cubanresourceful

@Nyghtryder_9: What arm are you using?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cubanresourceful*
> 
> @Nyghtryder_9: What arm are you using?


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WYVBR0/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

I love this mount. Extremely sturdy, I had my 37 vizio mounted with it and had no problems at all.


----------



## SkyPC

Mounts like these always make me uncomfortable. Its liek a ticking time bomb.

Either the wall will fail, the screws holding it together or the actual stand. And when it does it's safe to think the monitor will be broken.

Specially if you have plasterboard walls.

But that's my opinion.

As many people as many opinions.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Mounts like these always make me uncomfortable. Its liek a ticking time bomb.
> Either the wall will fail, the screws holding it together or the actual stand. And when it does it's safe to think the monitor will be broken.
> Specially if you have plasterboard walls.
> But that's my opinion.
> As many people as many opinions.


I understand your concerns, but have been using wall mounts for all kinds of heavy stuff for years and never had a failure. With the proper mounting techniques, if you cannot get a stud which my monitors are in, you are pretty safe. Just my opinion as well!


----------



## y2kcamaross

Im gonna order one now, anyone know which seller on ebay is the fastest to process and ship the orders/get it delivered?


----------



## SkyPC

From personal experience I wouldn't go with Green-sum again, took him quite a wile to ship and still have not received my monitor. Been about 10 days.

But every seller has the good and bad shipments. Green-sum has had deliveries within 2-4 days for some members.

The best shipping record seems to belong to dcsamsung.


----------



## SkyPC

Scriby, they might be safe and I bet they are.

But to me they "look" very unsafe, and to have that constant reminder in front of you each day. I would be at unease.

It's more of a peace of mind thing, really


----------



## eduardmc

I know this catleap mount is crap. you touch the frame of the monitor and it move like if there's an earthquake. I personallly do need to touch my monitor and my desk is pretty steady so why go crazy on a different mount if this does the job. I know some of you have the problem of the monitor leaning to the right or left but that can also be solve by reinstalling the mount.


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> I know this catleap mount is crap. you touch the frame of the monitor and it move like if there's an earthquake. I personallly do need to touch my monitor and my desk is pretty steady so why go crazy on a different mount if this does the job. I know some of you have the problem of the monitor leaning to the right or left but that can also be solve by reinstalling the mount.


If you add "NOT" after "Do" in "I personally do need to touch my monitor" then I can say; my thoughts exactly.


----------



## hybridtracer

Also, if you have a second monitor or are getting a second catleap, you can position them next to each other so the hold each other up in the proper position.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> If you add "NOT" after "Do" in "I personally do need to touch my monitor" then I can say; my thoughts exactly.


Sorry







English is not my native language.. trying really hard but i guess u did understand my point


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Also, if you have a second monitor or are getting a second catleap, you can position them next to each other so the hold each other up in the proper position.


[sarcasm] Orr you can fold a paper-towel into alittle square and slide under the stand to level it. [/sarcasm]


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

For me a solid mount was a must since I am in an office building that moves and the reflections off the bezels was annoying as hell as it sat there wobbling or vibrating.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> From personal experience I wouldn't go with Green-sum again, took him quite a wile to ship and still have not received my monitor. Been about 10 days.
> But every seller has the good and bad shipments. Green-sum has had deliveries within 2-4 days for some members.
> The best shipping record seems to belong to dcsamsung.


I used Dreamseller twice - ordered both on Monday and they were in on Saturday that week - I am in California your delivery times may vary!


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> [sarcasm] Orr you can fold a paper-towel into alittle square and slide under the stand to level it. [/sarcasm]


[For real] I'm doing the same thing just with a peace of foam, and for the sake of not scratching my desk.[/For Real]

But thats for my SyncMaster 2232bw








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I used Dreamseller twice - ordered both on Monday and they were in on Saturday that week - I am in California your delivery times may vary!


Mine still sits at "Handed over to Air carrier INCHEON" Which is a Korean flight terminal afaik. Been like this for 5 days. Dampens my spirits I tell ya









Ordered at 18


----------



## Strategist86

I think I will try to put in a bid for one of those Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE... looks like bigclothcraft and red-cap have the cheapest offers (with the option to put in a lower bid no less). What are the experiences with these sellers? bigclothcraft seems to have a higher approval rating and they specifically mention that they try to get it through customs at a price that is as low as possible for you... what about packing and things like that? Anyone with negative experience with either of those sellers? Please let me know









Also, is there any reason one should buy a achieva shimian over a yamakasi catleap? I guess except for the tempered glass and multi imput options which I don't care for...


----------



## cubanresourceful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strategist86*
> 
> I think I will try to put in a bid for one of those Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE... looks like bigclothcraft and red-cap have the cheapest offers (with the option to put in a lower bid no less). What are the experiences with these sellers? bigclothcraft seems to have a higher approval rating and they specifically mention that they try to get it through customs at a price that is as low as possible for you... what about packing and things like that? Anyone with negative experience with either of those sellers? Please let me know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, is there any reason one should buy a achieva shimian over a yamakasi catleap? I guess except for the tempered glass and multi imput options which I don't care for...


I just bought my monitor with bigclothcraft last night and they immediately sent me an email. I got my offer of 350$ accepted. 300 and 320 were rejected automatically, FYI.


----------



## crowat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I understand your concerns, but have been using wall mounts for all kinds of heavy stuff for years and never had a failure. With the proper mounting techniques, if you cannot get a stud which my monitors are in, you are pretty safe. Just my opinion as well!


You don't even need to find a stud. A couple of simple drywall anchors will work just fine (see link below).

Drywall Anchors

My mancave/office is located in my basement. The studs that hold the sheetrock are made from steel and not always located where I wanted to mount my equipment. I'we used the above listed drywall anchors to mount 2 HDTVs, and 3 different LCD monitors (1x 24 inch and 2x 28 inch) to the sheetrock without any issues (granted on different walls). I think that I could string a hammock between two walls using 3 of the anchors on each wall and comfortably plant my 225 LB but in it for days. I just can't see a ~20lb monitor and ~10lb mount breaking the wall. Then again my experience is only with 1/2" sheetrock/greenboard that is hung on studs placed 16" on center. Local building codes may vary across the US (if the person building your room even followed building codes). I have no idea what is the standard in the rest of the world.

Also, if you need LCD mounts you just can't beat Monoprice.com pricing/selections.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crowat*
> 
> You don't even need to find a stud. A couple of simple drywall anchors will work just fine (see link below).
> Drywall Anchors
> My mancave/office is located in my basement. The studs that hold the sheetrock are made from steel and not always located where I wanted to mount my equipment. I'we used the above listed drywall anchors to mount 2 HDTVs, and 3 different LCD monitors (1x 24 inch and 2x 28 inch) to the sheetrock without any issues (granted on different walls). I think that I could string a hammock between two walls using 3 of the anchors on each wall and comfortably plant my 225 LB but in it for days. I just can't see a ~20lb monitor and ~10lb mount breaking the wall. Then again my experience is only with 1/2" sheetrock/greenboard that is hung on studs placed 16" on center. Local building codes may vary across the US (if the person building your room even followed building codes). I have no idea what is the standard in the rest of the world.
> Also, if you need LCD mounts you just can't beat Monoprice.com pricing/selections.


I agree my other two are in anchors - never had a failure. Not to mention my wall mounts are using FOUR wall anchors for a 3 pound mount and a 15 pound monitor - total overkill.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Hey Scribby I filled out the member form but my info isnt up. Did I do something wrong?


----------



## esaase

Got my catleap today! Too bad, I will get my new desktop next week I will try to test this anyhow tomorrow.

My S/N begins with Q270LED2B2. Does that tell anything about overclocking potential?


----------



## thyroid

So what does it take to get 2 of these monitors running on one video card?

I've got a 5850 which as I've read may or may not be able to run the monitor (depending on the card's dvi port). I think my card does have the right dvi BUT would it be able to run two catleaps?


----------



## Strategist86

Other than the Dual DVI the only port with enough bandwidth would be its displayport... for that you'd need an active DP-to-dual-DVI cable... those things are fairly expensive ($100+). But it should be possible that way (based on a quick read of the specs of that card on my side, so I could miss something).


----------



## y2kcamaross

Im wondering if i can run my 120 hz monitor and my incoming catleap can both run off my gtx 680, it has 2 dual link, right?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## mattkuuni

When you lucky owners of Catleaps got your delivery, what value was written on the customs declaration? I'm wanting to import into New Zealand and the eBay prices are 'just' over the tax limit.
Which sellers might fudge the declaration value for me?








Cheers.


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Hey Scribby I filled out the member form but my info isnt up. Did I do something wrong?


It might not be on the first tab?


----------



## esaase

Mine had GIFT and 70 dollars printed on it, Finnish customs did not agree


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ispano*
> 
> Would love to know the process of how you got it to work.


I shall post a guide tomorrow. This is for Nvidia cards. The gtx 680, at least. Likely for some previous models too. There's already an ATI one up.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Can this monitor work with a dual link dvi-i input? Both this and my view sonic 120hz list dvi-d dual link, but my gtx 680 only has a dual link dvi-i and a dual link dvi-d...im scared it won't work!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## brzyski75

I have a stand on the way and just looked at the instructions to remove the stock stand.... I was thinking that it was going to be simpler that this. It looks pretty straight forward but the bezel removal looks like it might be problematic. Anyone want to give any additional tips for the bezel removal?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esaase*
> 
> Got my catleap today! Too bad, I will get my new desktop next week I will try to test this anyhow tomorrow.
> My S/N begins with Q270LED2B2. Does that tell anything about overclocking potential?


Yeah it should be able to OC. Who'd you order from? Which model? And when did you order it?? Because 2B means it was manufactured in February and I think everyone who's ordered recently has received a C model which can't OC.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brzyski75*
> 
> I have a stand on the way and just looked at the instructions to remove the stock stand.... I was thinking that it was going to be simpler that this. It looks pretty straight forward but the bezel removal looks like it might be problematic. Anyone want to give any additional tips for the bezel removal?


Bezel removal is quite straightforward. The hardest part is popping the first latch in the side. Make sure you have a thin blade (non-serrated butter knife would be perfect) that you can insert into the crack between the front and back bezel. After the first latch pops, the rest get much easier to take off. Just keep sliding the blade down towards the unopened latches and twisting slightly. It took me ~2-3 minutes to pop the front bezel off.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Can this monitor work with a dual link dvi-i input? Both this and my view sonic 120hz list dvi-d dual link, but my gtx 680 only has a dual link dvi-i and a dual link dvi-d...im scared it won't work!
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Yeah mate. The monitor works in both the dvi-i and dvi-d of my gtx 680.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Awesome, thanks!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## esaase

Thanks HyperM, Well seems that i got lucky:thumb: I bought it from red-cap. I made offer about 2 weeks ago. It is catleap with speakers, no glass.

I have to point out that I have not tried the monitor yet. I will post later, when i get my setup...


----------



## brzyski75

@ Kevinsbane - Sounds like a plastic putty knife might do the trick.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brzyski75*
> 
> @ Kevinsbane - Sounds like a plastic putty knife might do the trick.


That should work. May not be stiff enough to pry apart the first latch, but you can give it a shot.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> It might not be on the first tab?


Your right









My eyesight isnt what it used to be, thanks.


----------



## Adhunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> In the last pic.... Am I seeing a dead pixel in the lover left corner?


Don't think so, though I'm not home to check right now. I've seen a few things and gone "OH NO DEAD PIXEL", then when it brushes off "OH, dust... anybody? Dust."


----------



## ispano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ispano*
> 
> Would love to know the process of how you got it to work.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I shall post a guide tomorrow. This is for Nvidia cards. The gtx 680, at least. Likely for some previous models too. There's already an ATI one up.
Click to expand...

Perfect. Because a GTX 680 was what I was planning to go for.


----------



## Coltronathon

Here's the internals of my Cat multi (with hdmi). Crappy quality pics for your viewing pleasure.



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Risk64

Regarding the BIOS blackscreen. Is it possible that only specific PCBs (2B?) have that issue? I also heard that custom windows resolutions were scaled properly to fullscreen. Couldn't that be a sign of a scaler (that is said to be not present). I hope having OC doesn't mean to loose the scaler (if it's true at all).


----------



## darrenb123

Hi, I live in Canada and was wondering where I could get this monitor?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Here's the internals of my Cat multi (with hdmi). Crappy quality pics for your viewing pleasure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


*Very* interesting; it looks like your cabling is a bit different, but the monitor itself is LVDS-signaled (meaning the panel and T-con you have are high refresh capable, with a different DVI board)...

What's the serial number on that unit?


----------



## Derpinheimer

uhh, the same guys as everyone else?

they ship internationally..?


----------



## darrenb123

Hi,

ok so I want to order this off eBay as I'm seeing that's how most of you guys are doing so.

I have my parts bought and getting built next week. This is what I have:

CPU: Intel i5 2500k
Video Card: MSI GTX 560 Ti 448 Twn Frzr III
Mobo: ASUS P8Z68-V/GEN3
RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8gb
PSU: Corsair TX850M
SSD: OCZ Vertex 3 120gb

Will I be able to run one of these monitor's fine?

Judging from what I'm reading these are the two top guys to buy from?:
http://www.ebay.com/sch/dcsamsungmall/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=&_trksid=p3686
http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=catleap&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=green-sum

I was wondering, for those who ordered this, was there any custom fees? I live in Canada and don't want to get nailed with that.

Also, I'm looking into this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-PRECISION-2400WHD-TN-24-LED-HD-Monitor-16-9-1920X1080-DVI-HDCP-White-/220964275458?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item33727f4502#ht_5651wt_1165

Would you say getting the 27" is better?

Oh one more thing that worries me. Given the fact that this is from Korea, would there be any connectivity issues? Also where could I find specs? I found their site but obviously can't read it.


----------



## Coltronathon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> *Very* interesting; it looks like your cabling is a bit different, but the monitor itself is LVDS-signaled (meaning the panel and T-con you have are high refresh capable, with a different DVI board)...
> What's the serial number on that unit?


Q270MUT2C3LP0215

If you didn't see my other post I mentioned that I can set a custom refresh rate and it appears to take. Fraps reports the correct number too but someone else mentioned that it is probably skipping a lot of frames. What's a good game to test this with? The steam games I've tried lock in [email protected], and my hardware isn't beefy enough to drive modern games at that rez/refresh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Will I be able to run one of these monitor's fine?


I pretty much have an equivalent build - same GPU. You will have zero issues running anything with moderate-high settings. This monitor is %100 worth it but don't cry if you luck out with a few dead pixels. Mine was marked as a gift with a value of $100USD. As far as I know, unless there's something in the mail, there were no fees. Canada may be different of course.


----------



## darrenb123

lol don't worry I won't be crying. My biggest concern is being able to run it. I don't know much about this stuff and try to research to the best of my ability. I just want to make sure this thing will work like I read on the first page about the power brick. Did you guys have to buy a new one to accommodate with the fact that it's from Korea? Also I'm looking at some models and not sure what "tempered glass" means.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Here's the internals of my Cat multi (with hdmi). Crappy quality pics for your viewing pleasure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Can you post some screen shots of your control panel and windows refresh rates? You definitely can OC that board. Your DVI board is only different due to the multi input nature.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Q270MUT2C3LP0215
> If you didn't see my other post I mentioned that I can set a custom refresh rate and it appears to take. Fraps reports the correct number too but someone else mentioned that it is probably skipping a lot of frames. What's a good game to test this with? The steam games I've tried lock in [email protected], and my hardware isn't beefy enough to drive modern games at that rez/refresh. .


If you have vertical sync off, fraps can still report higher frames than monitor refresh.

Try running a game in windowed mode with fraps on + vertical sync.


----------



## Sorcerak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_nkw=catleap&_sacat=0&_odkw=&_osacat=0&_armrs=1&_ssn=green-sum


Been waiting for my monitor for 10 days now from Greensum, no ideas when I'll receive it.. definitely NOT recommended from me. And I'm canadian as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> I was wondering, for those who ordered this, was there any custom fees? I live in Canada and don't want to get nailed with that.


Good luck on that. I fully expect to pay taxes at the very least depending on what is declared on the package. I saw an earlier post mentioning 50$ value. There might be custom-processing fees on top of it - I will post about it when I (finally) receive it.


----------



## darrenb123

Oh snap, yea please let me know. I'm hoping prices don't go up as on dream-seller's product page it says how he has a March sale so I'm hoping the monitor doesn't go up. I was looking at either greensum or dream-seller, well since they're the only ones with the hdmi model, so maybe I'll be leaning more towards dream-seller. Are these monitors all 60hz? Sorry if these questions have been answered. I went through a lot of pages trying and don't have the time to go through them all.


----------



## cubanresourceful

bigclothcraft said he's shipping in 6 hours!







Also, I asked him if he can please bubble wrap and pack securely and he said of course he would, it will be packed to my satisfaction. Such a friendly guy.














If the monitor comes as described and fast, I will highly recommend!


----------



## Ragsters

I wish someone just told me what the difference was between the Crossover vs. Catleap vs. Shimian monitors. I mean am I even missing any? I am so confused


----------



## Romin

what's the difference between SE and non SE ?!


----------



## SkyPC

SE version doesn't have the speakers. As far as I know.


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ragsters*
> 
> I wish someone just told me what the difference was between the Crossover vs. Catleap vs. Shimian monitors. I mean am I even missing any? I am so confused


Difference is in looks mostly.

Another thing is that the Catleap has a bigger chances of overclocking its Hz, either getting lucky with a 2B internals or if Scribby is successful sourcing the parts, then we all can overclock our Catleap monitors to 100hz if we buy the part bundle.

Also, Catleaps seem to have better none deffect to defect ration. Meaning that there are lot less Catleaps with dead pixels right now as there are Shimians, acording to the pool in the main 300 page thread about these monitors.

Rest is, as I already said, in the looks.


----------



## thyroid

Could someone let me know which model comes without the tempered glass? How are you all distinguishing them from each other on ebay?

Edit: Non Tempered Glass, No Speaker, Dual-DVI


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcerak*
> 
> Been waiting for my monitor for 10 days now from Greensum, no ideas when I'll receive it.. definitely NOT recommended from me. And I'm canadian as well.
> Good luck on that. I fully expect to pay taxes at the very least depending on what is declared on the package. I saw an earlier post mentioning 50$ value. There might be custom-processing fees on top of it - I will post about it when I (finally) receive it.


i ordered from him , the est recieved date is april 10th-23rd , didnt you see it when you ordered ? Mine just got processed thru seoul . He has alot of feedback from people saying they got flawless monitors plus he was cheaper so i ordered from him , im a patient guy lol

damn since i ordered there alot more people selling them , some for 10 bucks less with faster shipping lol , world moves fast huh


----------



## Ragsters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Difference is in looks mostly.
> Another thing is that the Catleap has a bigger chances of overclocking its Hz, either getting lucky with a 2B internals or if Scribby is successful sourcing the parts, then we all can overclock our Catleap monitors to 100hz if we buy the part bundle.
> Also, Catleaps seem to have better none deffect to defect ration. Meaning that there are lot less Catleaps with dead pixels right now as there are Shimians, acording to the pool in the main 300 page thread about these monitors.
> Rest is, as I already said, in the looks.


Thanks for that!


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Could someone let me know which model comes without the tempered glass? How are you all distinguishing them from each other on ebay?
> Edit: Non Tempered Glass, No Speaker, Dual-DVI


I'd also like to know this. I am planning on getting the hdmi model and hope it's without tempered glass. Also, for the power brick could I just use one of the connections from my PSU? Or is it recommended buying something else?


----------



## Adhunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcerak*
> 
> Been waiting for my monitor for 10 days now from Greensum, no ideas when I'll receive it.. definitely NOT recommended from me.


I waited a week from green-sum. When I emailed asking for the tracking number after a couple of days and he responded apologising profusely because he'd had a high volume of orders but that it'd shipped that day. Maybe sent him an email?


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> I'd also like to know this. I am planning on getting the hdmi model and hope it's without tempered glass. Also, for the power brick could I just use one of the connections from my PSU? Or is it recommended buying something else?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140723272177?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c3c2b9f1#ht_33953wt_1163 With out Tempered Glass.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-Computer-Monitor-Tempered-glass-/110836482125?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce5e804d With Tempered Glass.

Usually if it's a tempered glass model, it will be mentioned in the title.

About the PSU, I read someone doing it here. But he had some issue with it. Try to search this or other korean monitor treads for keyword "PSU" ull find comparisons.

On the shipping note, my monitor got ordered on 18, and is still not here. Has been sitting in korean airport "Incheon for the last 6 days now. No status change in the tracking.

Also the monitor got dispatched only within 4 days, but he must have had many orders and also I did get the "Perfect Pixel" version which takes an extra day. About communication, he has replied to all my 6 questions quite fast. I ask in evening and he answers that same night. Tho, have not heard from him the last day about the question about my monitor sitting at Incheon air Currier.


----------



## thyroid

Pulled the trigger on one from dcsamsungmall. I'll keep you guys posted with my results from this seller.

Does anyone have any experience calibrating these displays? If so, what did you use?


----------



## cubanresourceful

The seller that I bought the monitor from (bigclothcraft) just shipped it through DHL. The ETA for delivery is Wed. 3/28/2012-4/2/2012. If I can get it by this Friday I will be extremely happy! That way I'll have the entire weekend to play with it!


----------



## Methos07

I've been trying to buy two today but for some reason my bank isn't happy with the transaction. Gotta wait till the morning to give them a call.

*sad*


----------



## BBGunWB

Found my flaw. Noticed it while gaming. Not noticeable, really, any other time other than on very bright screens.

Screen to my eyes... do you see anything yet?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















How about now, after playing with contrast and brightness to enhance it?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















Took two weeks to notice, and for 400 bucks, not really gonna complain unless it gets worse. Strip is about 1.5 inches wide and runs the length of the monitor. I'd guesstimate about 2-3% dimmer than the rest of the monitor. Note - the dust was on the camera sensor, is not part of the flaw.

BB


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> About the PSU, I read someone doing it here. But he had some issue with it. Try to search this or other korean monitor treads for keyword "PSU" ull find comparisons.
> On the shipping note, my monitor got ordered on 18, and is still not here. Has been sitting in korean airport "Incheon for the last 6 days now. No status change in the tracking.
> Also the monitor got dispatched only within 4 days, but he must have had many orders and also I did get the "Perfect Pixel" version which takes an extra day. About communication, he has replied to all my 6 questions quite fast. I ask in evening and he answers that same night. Tho, have not heard from him the last day about the question about my monitor sitting at Incheon air Currier.


So if that method isn't being used by a lot of people. What are you guys doing? If this whole power brick thing because costly perhaps I'll have to rethink this monitor.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Here's the internals of my Cat multi (with hdmi). Crappy quality pics for your viewing pleasure.
> Looks you have an overclocking pcb eh? Nice.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Romin*
> 
> what's the difference between SE and non SE ?!


SE= No speakers

NO SE=speakers


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coltronathon*
> 
> Here's the internals of my Cat multi (with hdmi). Crappy quality pics for your viewing pleasure.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Looks you have an overclocking pcb eh? Nice.

eep multipost


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> SE=speakers
> no SE=no speakers


That's NOT correct. The SE is without speakers. I know. I have an SE model, with no speakers. Think of it like this: SE= Speakers EXCLUDED


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> That's NOT correct. The SE is without speakers. I know. I have an SE model, with no speakers. Think of it like this: SE= Speakers EXCLUDED


Woops I had that backwards. Will edit.
I have the SE also

Here is my serial, anyone else have one like this that can overclock?


----------



## Djankie

I ordered a catleap 280 euro version from green-sum. The package has been in customs for a few days. They have sent me a letter, because they can't really determine the value (or they don't believe what's written on it). So now they ask me for proof. However I don't know what green-sum has written on the package.

What whas the value that was written on your package received from geen-sum ??


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> What whas the value that was written on your package received from geen-sum ??


Well I bought the cheapest model from green-sum a few weeks back or so and the value was declared at $30. Mine was shipped to the UK with no troubles which really surprised me as I always get stung by customs.

No idea how a huge box didn't get checked at customs with that value declared.


----------



## bQvle

Got this today!


And I recived an email that one of my Catleaps finally left Customs! I wanna go home!









18:56 16-Mar-2012 - Posting/Collection - DJ. YUSEONG Destination country : DENMARK
00:46 17-Mar-2012 - Arrival at outward office of exchange - INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE
15:56 17-Mar-2012 - Departure from outward office of exchange - INTERNATIONAL POST OFFICE
Dispatch number : 118 - Handed over to Air carrier INCHEON
07:19 23-Mar-2012 - Arrival at inward office of exchange
07:20 23-Mar-2012 - Handed over to Customs - Customs retention reason : Invoice missing
08:23 28-Mar-2012 - Departure from inward office of exchange

12 days so far, and i guess/hope it will be 13 in total.
this is NOT the sellers fault, just how slow the system works, if you've got crazy Customs like we do in Denmark.

And ofcourse they had the invoice in hand 30 minutes after it was stamped: Invoice Missing! so I didn't contribute any delay!


----------



## verick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> Found my flaw. Noticed it while gaming. Not noticeable, really, any other time other than on very bright screens.
> Screen to my eyes... do you see anything yet?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about now, after playing with contrast and brightness to enhance it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took two weeks to notice, and for 400 bucks, not really gonna complain unless it gets worse. Strip is about 1.5 inches wide and runs the length of the monitor. I'd guesstimate about 2-3% dimmer than the rest of the monitor. Note - the dust was on the camera sensor, is not part of the flaw.
> BB


This is the exact issue I have, in the exact same spot, I wonder what is causing it.


----------



## bQvle

*Clearance about DVI-D, DVI-I and Dual DVI.*
Gtx 680 comes with one DVI-D, and one DVI-I. *BOTH CAPABLE OF DUAL-DVI 120hz/3D/2560x1600*. (not all together ofc.)

DVI-D = Digital Only!
DVI-I = Integrated digital and analog support!

Any card from Nvidia since GTX 8800 will handle 2 of these monitors with no problems!
I dont know about ati though! but it have to be fairly old, not to support it!

what you dont want is DVI-A, wich is analog only! (haven't seen this on a card personally).


----------



## y2kcamaross

Does anyone know if the new Catleaps that are shipping(non 2b pcb i.e. anything in the last couple weeks) are capable of overclocking at all? I know they won't hot 97-100hz, but can they even hit 70hz? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Does anyone know if the new Catleaps that are shipping(non 2b pcb i.e. anything in the last couple weeks) are capable of overclocking at all? I know they won't hot 97-100hz, but can they even hit 70hz? Any help would be appreciated, thanks!


Limit seems to be about 67-68hz, so you won't get anything noticable.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> Found my flaw. Noticed it while gaming. Not noticeable, really, any other time other than on very bright screens.
> Screen to my eyes... do you see anything yet?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about now, after playing with contrast and brightness to enhance it?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took two weeks to notice, and for 400 bucks, not really gonna complain unless it gets worse. Strip is about 1.5 inches wide and runs the length of the monitor. I'd guesstimate about 2-3% dimmer than the rest of the monitor. Note - the dust was on the camera sensor, is not part of the flaw.
> BB


After messing with contrast and brightness in CCC, I can see something similar on mine. It doesn't look as pronounced, and appears even less with the monitor at full brightness, and CCC at default settings. I see it now because I saw it when messing with con/bri, but without you pointing out a way to see it, I probably never would have.

I'd like to see if any/all other Catleaps would do what you did and see if they see it as well.


----------



## darrenb123

What are you guys doing about the power brick? Did you guys have to buy anything?


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> What are you guys doing about the power brick? Did you guys have to buy anything?


Catleaps comes with a "free voltage" adapter. so you can use it with both 110 and 220-230v


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Limit seems to be about 67-68hz, so you won't get anything noticable.


Hey, every little hz counts


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Hey, every little hz counts


Correct







but if your goal is to get this "Liquid/Fluid" feeling on your monitor.
personally for me it needs to be 90+ hz.

But, you have to experience it first, I thought my previous 60hz was just fine! until I saw my current 120hz Sammy 2233rz.
Since then I just can't coap with 60hz anymore, its way to chuppy!


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but if your goal is to get this "Liquid/Fluid" feeling on your monitor.
> personally for me it needs to be 90+ hz.
> But, you have to experience it first, I thought my previous 60hz was just fine! until I saw my current 120hz Sammy 2233rz.
> Since then I just can't coap with 60hz anymore, its way to chuppy!


I have a 120hz monitor, believe me, I know the feeling, and I need at least 100, MW3 capped @90 still feels choppy to me, good thing the game is terrible!


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Catleaps comes with a "free voltage" adapter. so you can use it with both 110 and 220-230v


Hey,

Is this adapter in-box or based on the seller? Also I know nothing about this stuff...when you say i can use 110 and 220-230v what exactly does that mean?

I just want to be sure before I make a $500 investment and not damage it.


----------



## bQvle

Exactly.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Hey,
> Is this adapter in-box or based on the seller? Also I know nothing about this stuff...when you say i can use 110 and 220-230v what exactly does that mean?
> I just want to be sure before I make a $500 investment and not damage it.


The adapter that comes with the Yamakasi Catleap monitors are capable of 110-230v which means you basicly can use it everywhere in the world. Maybe you need to change the power cabel to fit your socket. but I guess everyone have a few of them laying around!

I have seen that some Achieva monitors comes with a 220-230v adapter only, so if you are on 110v i would defianatly go for the Yamakasi


----------



## neverness

Ordered a Catleap (no glass, no speaker) from dcsamsungmall Saturday night and it got delivered Tuesday to Dallas, Texas via Fedex. Amazing. No dead pixels thankfully. It is the C version so no OCing, but that's ok. I'm content with 60hz for now. Adapter is 110-240v and works fine in my power strip. Best monitor I've ever had


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neverness*
> 
> Ordered a Catleap (no glass, no speaker) from dcsamsungmall Saturday night and it got delivered Tuesday to Dallas, Texas via Fedex. Amazing. No dead pixels thankfully. It is the C version so no OCing, but that's ok. I'm content with 60hz for now. Adapter is 110-240v and works fine in my power strip. Best monitor I've ever had


You try overclocking it at all and see how many extra hz you can squeeze out?


----------



## neverness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> You try overclocking it at all and see how many extra hz you can squeeze out?


Got it up to 67hz. Like people said earlier it's hardly noticeable


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Exactly.
> The adapter that comes with the Yamakasi Catleap monitors are capable of 110-230v which means you basicly can use it everywhere in the world. Maybe you need to change the power cabel to fit your socket. but I guess everyone have a few of them laying around!
> I have seen that some Achieva monitors comes with a 220-230v adapter only, so if you are on 110v i would defianatly go for the Yamakasi


This is excellent news. I live in Canada, I don't know what voltage is used here as I never had to find out. I'll go to a computer store or something and ask them. Now, all I need to do is decide wether or not it's worth the extra $130 to get the HDMI capability. I would like to play my PS3 on this.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> This is excellent news. I live in Canada, I don't know what voltage is used here as I never had to find out. I'll go to a computer store or something and ask them. Now, all I need to do is decide wether or not it's worth the extra $130 to get the HDMI capability. I would like to play my PS3 on this.


You'll just need to swap the power cord and not the power supply as Canada is the same as the US. You should have one knocking about.


----------



## Qiko

Hey Guys,

I have an ASUS VH236H and experience screen tearing on both PC and even on game consoles, specifically PS3, @ 1080P @ 60hz

Anyone knows what this monitor is like on a game console @ 1080p? I am looking at the Catleap multi model.

Thanks!


----------



## darrenb123

There are some youtube vids of people gaming on it. I'm excited to order this. Greensum seems to have the multi model cheaper than dream-seller. Might have to go with green despite what people are saying. Not sure as of yet.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Exactly.
> The adapter that comes with the Yamakasi Catleap monitors are capable of 110-230v which means you basicly can use it everywhere in the world. Maybe you need to change the power cabel to fit your socket. but I guess everyone have a few of them laying around!
> I have seen that some Achieva monitors comes with a 220-230v adapter only, so if you are on 110v i would defianatly go for the Yamakasi


Out of curiosity, why does dream-seller mention "* Plug type is C for Korea. So, you need to have a multi plug or voltage transformer for your contry plug type and voltage. *" in the ad if it comes with the adapter inside?

Could this help me out? http://www.amazon.ca/Kensington-33117-International-Travel-Adapter/dp/B0002H4YUI/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Out of curiosity, why does dream-seller mention "* Plug type is C for Korea. So, you need to have a multi plug or voltage transformer for your contry plug type and voltage. *" in the ad if it comes with the adapter inside?
> Could this help me out? http://www.amazon.ca/Kensington-33117-International-Travel-Adapter/dp/B0002H4YUI/ref=pd_sxp_f_pt


Everyone asking about the power supplies read this. All you need is the AC cable that goes from the supply to the outlet. If you have ever bought any big electronic item then you have one somewhere. Here is a picture of what you need.

AC CABLE


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Everyone asking about the power supplies read this. All you need is the AC cable that goes from the supply to the outlet. If you have ever bought any big electronic item then you have one somewhere. Here is a picture of what you need.
> AC CABLE


Thanks. I will look into buying one of these in advance.


----------



## darrenb123

does anyone have the "multi" model of the Q270? I'd like to know if there is noticeable input lag vs. the regular dual dvi + no speakers model.


----------



## Clovertail100

Mine should be here any minute. Will post pics!


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neverness*
> 
> Ordered a Catleap (no glass, no speaker) from dcsamsungmall Saturday night and it got delivered Tuesday to Dallas, Texas via Fedex. Amazing. No dead pixels thankfully. It is the C version so no OCing, but that's ok. I'm content with 60hz for now. Adapter is 110-240v and works fine in my power strip. Best monitor I've ever had


Awesome to hear! That is crazy fast shipping! I've got one on the way from them as well. Ordered last night so maybe it'll be here by friday? fingers crossed


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mookster*
> 
> Mine should be here any minute. Will post pics!


The "multi" model? I plan on ordering this tonight or tomorrow. Let me know!


----------



## BBGunWB

Re: dim stripe near bottom of monitor
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *verick*
> 
> This is the exact issue I have, in the exact same spot, I wonder what is causing it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> After messing with contrast and brightness in CCC, I can see something similar on mine. It doesn't look as pronounced, and appears even less with the monitor at full brightness, and CCC at default settings. I see it now because I saw it when messing with con/bri, but without you pointing out a way to see it, I probably never would have.
> I'd like to see if any/all other Catleaps would do what you did and see if they see it as well.


Its not the Catleaps, its the LG panel. Apparently HP ZR2740s are rife with them. See this [H]ardOCP thread starting at post 222.

The only difference is, they have AG coating and paid 650 bucks for their dim stripe. I'm much more tolerant of it with no AG coating for 400 bucks.









I would assume a lot of the other "perfect" monitors, whether shimian, crossover, pcbank, whatever have the same issue.

I noticed it after I turned down the brightness. If its near the top of the brightness range, it is REALLY tough to tell if its there.

BB


----------



## siberx

I have seen that stripe as well; it's *very* minor and faint, and absolutely does not bother me at all with what I paid for these monitors


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

So...is there a reputable seller on eBay or do you sort of just...guess?


----------



## brzyski75

@ Samurai - I used dcsamsungmall. I live in Chicago. Ordered last Tuesday at 8pm cst. Received on Friday at noon. No dead pixels. I did however get the non-oc version.

I got my 3M stand today. $40 USD on Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/3M-Easy-Adjust-Monitor-Stand-MS110MB/dp/B0013CD0DI

Some dis-assembly notes:

1. Total time was about 30 mins.
2. It would have been ideal to have left the front screen protector that came on the monitor on until I finished the installation. If you can't do this, maybe consider taping something over the screen to avoid scratching it. I did in on my bed but still put a bunch of finger prints on it. No scratches though, but it would be easy to scratch I think.
3. I used a *1 1/2" PLASTIC putty knife* to remove the bezel. It was super easy and zero chance of marring the bezel. If you use a straight edged screw driver, you will likely mar the bezel. Go to a hardware store and get a plastic putty knife. Also, with the putty knife, you don't need to search out each clip. Once you get the first one popped you can slide it all the way around and they will all pop. They are 99 cents. Don't be lazy and assume a screwdriver will be fine.
4. *I did not unplug the wired connections inside*. I thought about it for a minute but they look pretty fragile. You can get the stand out easily without unplugging anything. If you go this route, you might need someone to help hold up the panel. Again, I really would advise unplugging the connectors inside. If the connector comes apart (who hasn't had this happen to them before?) you are screwed. There is no need to remove these to remove the stand.
5. Once I had the stand attached, I was surprised at how flimsy the connection to the stand was. I was expecting rock-solid but it is not a great connection. Seems like a plastic back plate. Once I got it on my desk it seems fine though.

3M Mount Specifics:
6. If you are buying the 3M mount, please be aware that it will not display in portrait mode unless the screen is tilted upwards. It won't clear the base.
7. The 3M stand will allow you to lower the Catleap all the way to the base of the stand. I was worried that the minimum height was going to be too high, but it is not. 3/4" probably.
8. The negative tilt adjustment is really bad but it will tilt down slightly. All in all a great stand. Mine ended up being pre-tensioned to the proper weight for the Catleap.

Anyway, whoever is in charge of this club, consider revising the stand removal instructions. Someone is going to break a connector unplugging wires. No need to risk it. Also, the plastic putty knife worked really well.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> *Clearance about DVI-D, DVI-I and Dual DVI.*
> Gtx 680 comes with one DVI-D, and one DVI-I. *BOTH CAPABLE OF DUAL-DVI 120hz/3D/2560x1600*. (not all together ofc.)
> DVI-D = Digital Only!
> DVI-I = Integrated digital and analog support!
> Any card from Nvidia since GTX 8800 will handle 2 of these monitors with no problems!
> I dont know about ati though! but it have to be fairly old, not to support it!
> what you dont want is DVI-A, wich is analog only! (haven't seen this on a card personally).


2560x1440 @ 120hz isn't officially supported as you still need to push the pixel clock to 498 with automatic timings, or 475 manually set. Which is still a lot more than the 400 the expect as a max for the card. Which also explains why when you SLI the gtx 680, you can not push the pixel clock above 400. So it's only good for single-carders.







But yes, it is relatively easy to set. Assuming you're not playing a direct3d game which will kick your refresh rate back down to 60hz once you run it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

I just finalized a method to get 120hz in single card and 100hz in sli setup on my GTX 680. The same driver works for both SLI and non-SLI setups which is good because for games like Planetside, I'll just go into the menu, disable SLI, and play at 120hz since a single card is more than enough to give me 120fps+. I will be releasing a guide within the hour. This is only confirmed to work with the GTX 680 but the driver and general setup should really help everybody out.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:
Originally Posted by *brzyski75* 

3. I used a *1 1/2" PLASTIC putty knife* to remove the bezel. It was super easy and zero chance of marring the bezel. If you use a straight edged screw driver, you will likely mar the bezel. Go to a hardware store and get a plastic putty knife. Also, with the putty knife, you don't need to search out each clip. Once you get the first one popped you can slide it all the way around and they will all pop. They are 99 cents. Don't be lazy and assume a screwdriver will be fine.
4. *I did not unplug the wired connections inside*. I thought about it for a minute but they look pretty fragile. You can get the stand out easily without unplugging anything. If you go this route, you might need someone to help hold up the panel. Again, I really would advise unplugging the connectors inside. If the connector comes apart (who hasn't had this happen to them before?) you are screwed. There is no need to remove these to remove the stand.


> 5. Once I had the stand attached, I was surprised at how flimsy the connection to the stand was. I was expecting rock-solid but it is not a great connection. Seems like a plastic back plate. Once I got it on my desk it seems fine though.
> 3M Mount Specifics:


#3. I had no issues using my screwdriver since it is all about applying pressure, not really about the tool. If there is sufficient pressure any little twist pops the bezel. Taking your time while disassembling these is the KEY to one, not jacking up the bezel, and two not jacking up your wiring. Be patient and all will be well!

#4. I am assuming you are advising AGAINST taking the connectors off. I don't, but that's me. I have taken apart both monitors now 4 times each and never had an issue. Just be gentle. If you rip the damn things out of course they will break. The connectors are not flimsy, it's just small gauge wire that makes it appear more fragile than it really is. Take your time, wiggle the connector a little bit, and it will come free. I was concerned about the DVI cables the first time I took one of these apart, but now have realized by taking my time they come off fine and haven't had an issue. Personally I think you run the risk of more damage by NOT taking them off. There isn't that much play in the wires and having someone hold it could lead to pulling the connector off of a board. Either way there are pitfalls and advantages - go with what works for you (and you are more comfortable with.)

I don't think a revision is in order for the instructions - to each his own. If you don't want to remove the wires, don't. No big deal. Besides the walk through is only my way of doing this - your experience may vary!









#5. Of course it isn't going to be rock solid! The vesa mounting points on the inside of the monitor are attached to plastic. There is a thin piece of metal running vertically between the two holes (2 metal strips - one per side for the 4 holes) and that is set inside the plastic shell so there will be some flex to it. Korean engineering!


----------



## Mr Pixel

Having trouble telling versions apart. Is this one DVI-only, no tempered glass?
Link

Thanks!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Alright folks. The ATI guide for my 101hz-105hz overclock was incredibly over-complicated and messy and filled with tons of redundancies. I've...not let you down. There are still redundancies. But less of them. And this is much easier to follow, imo. This is how I got a stable 120hz on non-SLI gtx 680, and a stable 100hz on SLI mode gtx 680. This works across all apps/games I've tested it with now! And other than me being stupid and taking god knows how long to figure it all out, it's quite simple.

I'm going to repeat, as with my last guide, THERE ARE STEPS HERE THAT ARE POSSIBLY NOT REQUIRED. I went through those steps. They may have been meaningless. But they still got me to where I am. So...to be safe...you're going to do them too.









*SUPER AWESOME NVIDIA OVERCLOCK GUIDE (100hz-120hz)*

DOWNLOAD 1) Download the latest version of Powerstrip (I'm...unsure how this actually helps with the refresh rate. I don't believe it does. But I like Powerstrip's override feature, and this will also allow you to easily remove that green tint off your monitor, if you haven't already done so. And always a handy app to have)

DOWNLOAD 2) Download This Bad Boy too.

dseo13b.zip 631k .zip file


DOWNLOAD 3) Download the Monitor driver next.

Catleap_Q270_OC.zip 1k .zip file
 This driver should be good to use by anyone. It registers the monitor as having upto 123hz refresh rate. However, remember that while the driver lets the system think your monitor can run a higher refresh rate, it doesn't mean your card can handle it. So just because the option might be there, doesn't mean it's safe to do. Know your systems limitations and proceed at your own risk! This isn't really a liability waiver...because if I can be held liable for someone following an unverified guide on a free internet forum...then **** this world and everyone who lives in it.









Steps to follow:

1) Install Powerstrip. Just because I said so. To remove the green tint, if you haven't already, and go to configure colour profiles:


Click the green button, and adjust the sliders to remove the tint. For my monitor, the settings below worked perfectly. Each monitor is going to be different though. So play around until it looks right. Or just use a proper calibration software:


Or you can skip that step alltogether.

2) Open up dseo13b.exe (inside dseo13b.zip, attached above) It sometimes opens up behind any existing open windows. So you won't see it until you individually minimize other stuff. Hit Next. Yes if you agree to the terms. Select "Enable Test Mode" and hit Next. Restart your computer. You'll notice in the bottom-right corner of your desktop it'll now say your Windows is in Test Mode. I should probably point out that this guide was made on Windows 7 and I have no idea about compatibility with other versions of Windows because...I'm not the manufacturer of the monitor and don't care to cross test.











3) Hit the Windows Key + R to bring up the the Run prompt. Type in devmgmt.msc and hit enter. Under Monitors, select your monitor (Dual DVI, or Plug And Play Monitor, or whatever it's called). Right click, and select "Update Driver Software:"



Select "Browse my computer for driver software," then "Let me pick from a list of device drivers on my computer," followed by clicking "Have Disk..."


Now browse to the folder you saved the monitor driver in (driver was at the top of the post. make sure you unzip it first):


Once you've done that, it should now show the drivers it found in that folder. Select the Overclock.Net monitor from the list, obviously, in case you have multiple drivers that it's located and you should see:


Click Next, and once it's installed the driver, you must restart your computer.

4) Once you restart your computer, open up the Nvidia control panel, go to Change Resolution, click Customize, then Create Custom Resolution, as shown here:



Once you're there, you want to make either 1 or 2 profiles, depending on whether you're playing with a single card, which card you have, and whether you want to SLI. For many people, the 100hz will be all they can do. Meaning...all pre-gtx 680 cards may be limited to 100hz. All gtx 680 sli setups are limited to 100hz. If you're in that category, please ONLY do the 100hz one. Enter the details as below:



Now if you have a single gtx 680 card, or some other card that is known to allow a higher than 400 pixel clock, then you can set up 120hz in pretty much exactly the same way, just with the refresh rate changed from 100hz to 120hz:



Please make sure to enter the details on the bottom half of the screen in Manual mode as shown below, otherwise for 100hz SLI or non-gtx 680 single card setups it'll push your pixel clock above 400 and may cause a lot of problem or simply just not work. And for single gtx 680 owners...still better to run the pixel clock as low as possible. So do it.









5) To confirm that the system now reads your refresh rate capabilities properly, go to Powerstrip --> Display Profiles --> Configure, and click on "Hide modes not supported by this monitor." If done properly, the slider on the right of the screen should still slide on over to 100hz or 120hz, depending on what resolutions you set up in Nvidia's control panel. You can also confirm what actual refresh rate you have active now, by double clicking the camera icon next to the slider. If the slider is inactive for you, make sure to select " Standard Discrete Timing" from the drop down menu on that same page instead of "Windows Default." Here's a screenshot showing everything, and also my tested refresh rate at 120.003hz:



6) Enable Vsync and test out a game. It should show the proper capped FPS of 100hz or 120hz assuming your card can produce that framerate. Hope you liked this guide a bit better than my last one. Took me a good week to get this all working. So if it works for you, feel free to rep.







Cheers folks.


----------



## DreamTwister

Awesome! Thanks HyperMatrix. I've been waiting for a good Nvidia guide to OC hopefully over the 97hz my monitor is set at, hopefully as soon as I get my 680 GTX (if I can find any). Big thanks!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> Having trouble telling versions apart. Is this one DVI-only, no tempered glass?
> Link
> Thanks!


Yup. That's the most basic model. Dual-Link DVI input. No Glass. No Speakers. No other ports. Hopefully also no dead pixels.


----------



## stryker7314

Was browsing the Yamakasi Korean website looking for warranty info, and found some interesting engrish;


----------



## Adhunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*
> 
> So...is there a reputable seller on eBay or do you sort of just...guess?


Can recommend green-sum.


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brzyski75*
> 
> @ Samurai - I used dcsamsungmall. I live in Chicago. Ordered last Tuesday at 8pm cst. Received on Friday at noon. No dead pixels. I did however get the non-oc version.


How do I know what version is the one I can OC?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/110834882557?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce4617fd


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DreamTwister*
> 
> Awesome! Thanks HyperMatrix. I've been waiting for a good Nvidia guide to OC hopefully over the 97hz my monitor is set at, hopefully as soon as I get my 680 GTX (if I can find any). Big thanks!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*
> 
> How do I know what version is the one I can OC?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/110834882557?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce4617fd


Some have reported the multi/gaming versions are still OC'able but other than that, there is nothing and very very unlikely to get an OC'able model still. That's why Scribby is sourcing the pcb's and cables to get this all done so we can modify the monitors ourselves.


----------



## cubanresourceful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Was browsing the Yamakasi Korean website looking for warranty info, and found some interesting engrish;


Perfect, just perfect. I hope mine has a lot of Air Hores, goodness knows I love 'em.


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

Thanks.
...How the hell do I switch out the PCB? e_e


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*
> 
> Thanks.
> ...How the hell do I switch out the PCB? e_e


That'll be the easy part. Hard part is waiting for Scribby to see if he has success sourcing all the pcb's and cables. Waiting games are always hard!


----------



## Clovertail100

Received mine about an hour ago. Got the tempered glass + speakers model from Green-Sum with no issues. No dead pixels/dirt under glass.


----------



## BBGunWB

It does look sexy with the glass over it all.....


----------



## Clovertail100

One thing I'll say is the glass is set slightly off on the left side; it is fraction of a cm higher than the bezel.
No big deal, but just a sidenote for those who may be bothered by such a thing.


----------



## Anjexu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BBGunWB*
> 
> It does look sexy with the glass over it all.....


Aye, I somewhat regret not going for the tempered glass version - admittedly I'm quite happy with my flawless panel (At least in terms of dead pixels, there's probably a bit of uniformity issue but I can't seem to notice it, nor can I notice any backlight bleed except possibly a bit at the bottom right corner), I would've been even happier with a flawless panel PLUS tempered glass.









Occasionally something small gets on the monitor and when I try to clean it up, it usually makes things worse. Though that might just be because I'm too keen on trying to keep it clean since it's still so new.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

A big thank you to HyperMatrix for the nVidia OC guide - added to the OP.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have bad news to report. My original company that I was all set to have the gerber files and BOM list done has backed out. No explanation, just sorry we cannot do this.

I will be contacting my other peeps in the morning. The cost is still super cheap compared to US companies (in fact no US company will do it since these aren't their boards.) I am hoping the Chinese are now not getting that same hangup! I am sure there is a PCB maker over there willing to take my money.

I will post more once I have details. But, for now, we are delayed yet again.


----------



## kevinsbane

I've gotten a new video card in (GTX 680, cost more than my monitor, silly impulse buy) but I can't seem to get the monitor driver to convince Nvidia control panel that it can actually run >60 hz rates.

I used the program that allows me to load unsigned drivers, then loaded the monitor driver, but it still doesn't let me set a custom resolution > 60 hz? Am I missing something here? (I *was* running an ATI (yes, ATI) card before with CRU... if that makes a difference) Drivers installed just fine.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I've gotten a new video card in (GTX 680, cost more than my monitor, silly impulse buy) but I can't seem to get the monitor driver to convince Nvidia control panel that it can actually run >60 hz rates.
> I used the program that allows me to load unsigned drivers, then loaded the monitor driver, but it still doesn't let me set a custom resolution > 60 hz? Am I missing something here? (I *was* running an ATI (yes, ATI) card before with CRU... if that makes a difference) Drivers installed just fine.


I misread. Lol. Did you restart the PC afterwards? And do you have a B or C version monitor? Because this method is still only for the B monitors. Also describe what happens when you try to test it running at 100hz, for example.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *E1-security*
> 
> we are a seller on ebay
> you all can buy yamakasi catleap monitors at better price than ebay
> we can save ebay fee by selling them out of ebay
> you all can be protected by paypal system
> try to visit
> http://e1-security.com/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-q270-monitor-q270-se-monitort-e1-security/
> sincerely yours


$345 on your site compared to $359 on eBay, with $7 in eBay bucks, and all the protection that comes with it. I don't think many will be convinced to buy outside of ebay from a new seller to save $7.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> $345 on your site compared to $359 on eBay, with $7 in eBay bucks, and all the protection that comes with it. I don't think many will be convinced to buy outside of ebay from a new seller to save $7.


Not to mention you don't specify shipping. Although I really don't want sellers posting here on the thread (UNLESS they can get us OC boards, then post away!!!)


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I misread. Lol. Did you restart the PC afterwards? And do you have a B or C version monitor? Because this method is still only for the B monitors. Also describe what happens when you try to test it running at 100hz, for example.


He has a 2B based on the OC survey, which, by the way MORE people need to post to!!

Also, where are all the owners that troll here, but don't post to the owners spreadsheet? Come on now!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> He has a 2B based on the OC survey, which, by the way MORE people need to post to!!
> 
> Also, where are all the owners that troll here, but don't post to the owners spreadsheet? Come on now!


I'm guilty of that myself. You should post a guide on how to do it.









If you're reading this bud, what was the highest you were able to get the monitor to on your ATI card? And still, what happens when you click the Test button at 100hz with the manual settings that bring it to below 400 pixel clock?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I'm guilty of that myself. You should post a guide on how to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If you're reading this bud, what was the highest you were able to get the monitor to on your ATI card? And still, what happens when you click the Test button at 100hz with the manual settings that bring it to below 400 pixel clock?


Too funny! I am WAY behind on updating the darn OP.

He may not be able to see your question (all black screen or lines!)


----------



## room312

I ordered the cheapest brand/model at the time (Catleap) from green-sum on March 11. It shipped on the 15th and arrived on the 20th. No customs fees or taxes.




I used plastic (makeshift) pry tools to remove the bezel. The monitor is so wobbly on the stock stand because it connects to the bottom-center of the monitor. It has so much leverage, it's causing a see-saw effect. I'm also not exactly sure what the rear curved silver part is used for. Please be very careful when removing and reinserting the internal board connector. It's very delicate and the pins are tiny. The reinsertion may be tricky.

I'm using the Ergotron Neo-Flex. 3M has a similar version, though. To rotate into portrait mode, I have to raise the monitor all the way up and tilt it all the way back, giving it a half-inch clearance at its lowest point during rotation. In portrait, it's at its maximum height and it's basically sitting right on the Neo-Flex base. For those considering the Crossover, you have to tilt it back as well to clear the rotation. By the way, with the bezel, the Catleap is ~25.5" wide by ~15.75" tall. The pivot point is ~12.75" from the left/right and ~7.5" from the top/~8.25" from the bottom.

Edit: With my arm-length viewing distance, the monitor on a standard 2.5' tall table, no room for forward tilt, and my eyes naturally focusing below-center, it definitely takes some getting used to looking at the upper portion of the screen in portrait mode. I'm putting my least-used programs in the upper area so I don't have to look up there too often.

I have a SAPPHIRE 100315L 6850 1GB. No video at all on the single-link; dual-link is perfect. I can see my BIOS (in full screen). I don't have to turn the computer or monitor on in any special sequence. I'm using catleap-d65.icm as this produced the most accurate/neutral colors. See this ( http://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_7-desktop/cant-apply-an-icc-profile-to-display-cant/71b8d8e8-afa3-435a-aae4-6a8a184b6439 ) if the color profiles don't seem to take effect. No dead pixels. Even lighting/color. Response time is similar to my Acer X203H (5ms). Similar performance in CS and CS:S. I've used it to game almost all day over the weekend and a few hours each weeknight.

By the way, Catalyst is set *not* to do any GPU scaling, but I can go through the entire resolution list (640x480 to 2560x1440) and it scales the resolution to full screen (pillarbox if it's not a perfect 16:9 AR). I don't know if Windows is still scaling it up, but some have claimed that if it's fed a sub-1440p feed (1080p), it'll have black borders all around. This hasn't been the case for me, but I haven't tried any 1080p devices yet.

I also have a laptop setup with DisplayPort. I'm using an Accell UltraAV B087B-002B to convert DisplayPort to DVI. No software necessary. It's working fine so far after 3 days, 8 hours a day straight. I'm running static windows and it's not suffering from any burn-in or image retention. The only real trouble was getting my multi-monitor setup to work, but I'm not blaming the Catleap for that. I'm blaming XP, Nvidia, and the fact that I'm driving 2 other monitors via USB (http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?p_id=6040 ). As a side note, the DisplayLink software for the USB-driven monitors has crashed almost daily ever since I got it a few months ago.

In short, I've been using the Catleap 11+ hours a day since the 24th; 8 hours of bright static content, followed by a few hours of gaming. Nothing bad has come of this yet. Both the monitor and power brick run cool. No buzzing. I'm also using the stock power brick; just using my own power cord.

Before:


After (Acer X203H on the left, Catleap in the center, and 2 Dell P1911s on the right.):


Backlight bleeding with maximum brightness:


Is it possible that the bleeding is stronger in the corners because I over-tightened the corner screws after putting the bezel back on? Or is this what everyone's bleeding looks like? Also, when I put the screws back in, some of them didn't tighten, like I stripped the thread, but I was sure to be delicate.

By the way, does anyone know of an affordable 1600p DVI (and USB) switch? I'm currently swapping cables every time I want to switch computers. I've seen a couple in the >$100 range, but I don't know why they're this costly.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Too funny! I am WAY behind on updating the darn OP.
> 
> He may not be able to see your question (all black screen or lines!)


Lol. I hope that's what it is. He can test it by trying to run the new refresh rate in Automatic mode as opposed to the manual settings. I don't think there is a straight across the board minimum settings for the manual part. Varies by monitor. Go too low...and it'll give you lines or just nothing whatsoever.


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mookster*
> 
> Received mine about an hour ago. Got the tempered glass + speakers model from Green-Sum with no issues. No dead pixels/dirt under glass.
> -snip-


Green-sum is who has the lowest price I saw right now.
Why are there different models? What difference does it make with them?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Lol....so my tempered glass lifted up a little on one side. So I decided to take it off. They just stuck a sheet of glass with double sided tape on to the regular monitor. They didn't even bother to take off the sticker with all the advertising on it...they just glued the glass screen over top of the sticker. Silly koreans. Lol.


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samurai Batgirl*
> 
> Green-sum is who has the lowest price I saw right now.
> Why are there different models? What difference does it make with them?


Afaik it's the stand+bezel, I'm sure there's some differences in pcb used but I think it's a little early to find a pattern.
This one's cheap, perfect pixel & w/o glass http://www.ebay.com/itm/150784366471

I'm still checking a bunch of fora for more info but this one is at the top of my list right now, even though the stand sucks, I would rather have "perfact pixel".
Just wish I could get some feedback about cool-guys on here (packaging, customs etc.)


----------



## esaase

My new comp is delayed to next week







. I will try to find a computer somewhere for a weekend. Anyone knows if i can test this Catleap with nvidia GTS450 with 1 gb mem? Monitor advertisement said it would have "dos error". What does that mean?


----------



## holic-lolic

Q270 SE has arrived today. There is no failure or no dead pixel.









But the back of the monitor is slightly too hot. I think. . .
My country is 100V, but now I'm using Catleap's AC adapter(220V).
Will it cause of the fever? Or This monitor is normal or is it hot?


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holic-lolic*
> 
> Q270 SE has arrived today. There is no failure or no dead pixel.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the back of the monitor is slightly too hot. I think. . .
> My country is 100V, but now I'm using Catleap's AC adapter(220V).
> Will it cause of the fever? Or This monitor is normal or is it hot?


Can't say for sure but I've read 110v-240v over & over.
I wouldn't use it until you have a definitive answer from someone.


----------



## ispano

A big thanks to HyperMatrix for posting the OC guide. It's much appreciated!


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I misread. Lol. Did you restart the PC afterwards? And do you have a B or C version monitor? Because this method is still only for the B monitors. Also describe what happens when you try to test it running at 100hz, for example.


I've restarted a number of times, and it still does not let me set or add a custom resolution with higher refresh rates, just 59-61. I do indeed have a 2B monitor (I could overclock to 85 hz with my HD 5770). Would the version of Nvidia control panel make a difference?

Did you have to do anything special after you got your GTX 680 to get it to work (other than what you posted above)?


----------



## esaase

Sorry of being impatient, but does anyone know if Catleap works with nvidia gts 450?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I've restarted a number of times, and it still does not let me set or add a custom resolution with higher refresh rates, just 59-61. I do indeed have a 2B monitor (I could overclock to 85 hz with my HD 5770). Would the version of Nvidia control panel make a difference?
> Did you have to do anything special after you got your GTX 680 to get it to work (other than what you posted above)?


Don't believe I did anything else...I'm just using the latest control panel that came with forceware 301.10. What error are you getting or what is happening when you try to do a refresh rate change? Have you tried leaving the bottom portion of the custom resolution screen in Automatic mode instead of manual mode?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Don't believe I did anything else...I'm just using the latest control panel that came with forceware 301.10. What error are you getting or what is happening when you try to do a refresh rate change? Have you tried leaving the bottom portion of the custom resolution screen in Automatic mode instead of manual mode?


I simply can't select higher refresh rates. It does not give me any option to go higher than 59-61. When I try to select higher, it tells me "you must select a refresh rate between 59 and 61".

EDIT: OH! I think I'm trying to change the wrong field!


----------



## Methos07

So probably the #1 question that has been answered before, but I haven't seen the answer...

Why is this monitor so cheap? Are we really paying an extra 500 something dollars for the extra inputs/adjustable stand on something like a U2711? Corporate greed?


----------



## cubanresourceful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methos07*
> 
> So probably the #1 question that has been answered before, but I haven't seen the answer...
> Why is this monitor so cheap? Are we really paying an extra 500 something dollars for the extra inputs/adjustable stand on something like a U2711? Corporate greed?


Brand.


----------



## kevinsbane

Ok, Hypermatrix, I can get up to 116 hz before the monitor starts throwing weird stuff at me. Interesting. (blinky lines)


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Methos07*
> 
> So probably the #1 question that has been answered before, but I haven't seen the answer...
> Why is this monitor so cheap? Are we really paying an extra 500 something dollars for the extra inputs/adjustable stand on something like a U2711? Corporate greed?


If you ask me, there are a couple extras you get when ordering a dell/hp/etc. but in the end they slap on another couple hundred dollars just because.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Ok, Hypermatrix, I can get up to 116 hz before the monitor starts throwing weird stuff at me. Interesting. (blinky lines)


Ok sweet. Is that with Manual or Automatic settings?


----------



## darrenb123

Hey,

1. How are you guys liking this monitor in regards to gaming?
2. Also to my fellow Canadian, were you able to run the monitor easy with the power brick? Were there any heating issues or anything?

I'll probably be ordering tonight...trying to decide if I want the hdmi version...


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Hey,
> 1. How are you guys liking this monitor in regards to gaming?
> 2. Also to my fellow Canadian, were you able to run the monitor easy with the power brick? Were there any heating issues or anything?
> I'll probably be ordering tonight...trying to decide if I want the hdmi version...


USA and Canada has the same voltage specifications; if it works for them, it works for us.

This monitor for gaming will be on par with the dell 27inch ultrasharp one. Unless you're a professional FPS player, it'll be perfectly fine while looking great.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Lol....so my tempered glass lifted up a little on one side. So I decided to take it off. They just stuck a sheet of glass with double sided tape on to the regular monitor. They didn't even bother to take off the sticker with all the advertising on it...they just glued the glass screen over top of the sticker. Silly koreans. Lol.


Okay? so if you dont want tempered, you can acutally break it right off?, what about tape glue on benzel and so?

I recived my first Catleap today 13 days in the shipping!
Panel is Flawless! But this is a tempered glass version to, and I've got a little hair behind the glass, I hope it will eventually fall to the bottom, i can tap the screen and move it around.

Model is 2C. caps at 67hz, and even 67hz is kind of unstable when swiching between desktop and games.

It looks really great, but I am getting some Eye-strain, and headache! Hope that its just my brain that needs to get used to S-IPS from TN.

It had the greenish tint, i tried the color profile, but thought that the colors was still a bit wired. So I turned it off, and ajusted the brightness, contrast and gamma on Green myself, now its just perfect (for me)!

I had to go buy Black-out curtains, i have windows behind my monitor! and with the glossy panel, all I could see was myself









Here's some pictures!








And the "hair/dust" i was talking about:


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Ok sweet. Is that with Manual or Automatic settings?


That's with the manual timings that you posted yourself.

At 117, it starts blinking, blacking out, then coming back, then blacking out. I can still see what's on the screen, but it's unusable as far as anything other than undoing it!

At 120, with automatic timings, it just refuses to display anything.

I can get 115 FPS, but I think Vsync is messing with me, so when I tried PixPerAn, it kept jumping between 115/57 hz. Once I get that running, I'll see if the refresh rate makes much of a difference in readability.

The GTX 680 is so much better in terms of framerate on the desktop; with the HD 5770, at desktop I was skipping frames on Idle and thus couldn't really tell of the higher frame rates. Currently, I do still skip the occasional frame, but I can tell the difference in smoothness on the desktop. Not something that will make me unable to go back to 60 hz, but it's noticeable.

But gotta work now, so no more playing around with that!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Yeah man the tempered glass comes off, and can be put back on so easily. With mine, 100% of the sticky glue/tape thing stayed on the monitor. You can use a hair driver to heat up the edges before removing it as well using a wooden or plastic tool, and prying very gently. It can also be put back on if you wanted.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> And the "hair/dust" i was talking about:


Try popping the bezel off to clean it out. About 10 min's work, all told, to clean the inside of the glass off.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> That's with the manual timings that you posted yourself.
> At 117, it starts blinking, blacking out, then coming back, then blacking out. I can still see what's on the screen, but it's unusable as far as anything other than undoing it!
> At 120, with automatic timings, it just refuses to display anything.
> I can get 115 FPS, but I think Vsync is messing with me, so when I tried PixPerAn, it kept jumping between 115/57 hz. Once I get that running, I'll see if the refresh rate makes much of a difference in readability.
> The GTX 680 is so much better in terms of framerate on the desktop; with the HD 5770, at desktop I was skipping frames on Idle and thus couldn't really tell of the higher frame rates. Currently, I do still skip the occasional frame, but I can tell the difference in smoothness on the desktop. Not something that will make me unable to go back to 60 hz, but it's noticeable.
> But gotta work now, so no more playing around with that!


I'm using these settings currently: 

Try playing around with the numbers a little bit. If you hit 120hz that'll be perfect as it'll give you the option to get the Nvidia 3d Vision Kit. =D


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I'm using these settings currently:
> Try playing around with the numbers a little bit. If you hit 120hz that'll be perfect as it'll give you the option to get the Nvidia 3d Vision Kit. =D


Although I joked about it earlier, I don't have high hopes for 3D Vision. These panels, I think, have just too slow of a pixel response time to ensure the <8.3ms response times to ensure no cross-talk. Would be interesting to try, but I don't think I'm going to try for it unless I know it'll work. 3D Vision kits aren't that cheap*...

I'll try those settings later; as it stands, I think I can sacrifice a little resolution (3-5 lines around the sides?) to try out 120hz.

*EDIT: Says the guy who impulse bought a $500 GTX 680, $400 monitor off ebay and a $120 Ergotron MX arm.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Although I joked about it earlier, I don't have high hopes for 3D Vision. These panels, I think, have just too slow of a pixel response time to ensure the <8.3ms response times to ensure no cross-talk. Would be interesting to try, but I don't think I'm going to try for it unless I know it'll work. 3D Vision kits aren't that cheap*...
> I'll try those settings later; as it stands, I think I can sacrifice a little resolution (3-5 lines around the sides?) to try out 120hz.
> *EDIT: Says the guy who impulse bought a $500 GTX 680, $400 monitor off ebay and a $120 Ergotron MX arm.


Haha. I lost my job a month ago. Since then I got the $160 Rat9 mouse, $400 monitor, 2 $500 GTX 680's, an iPad 3, and soon to add a 3d vision kit. I'm...not too smart.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yeah man the tempered glass comes off, and can be put back on so easily. With mine, 100% of the sticky glue/tape thing stayed on the monitor. You can use a hair driver to heat up the edges before removing it as well using a wooden or plastic tool, and prying very gently. It can also be put back on if you wanted.


But that would leave a sticky monitor ?







wouldn't it be better if the sticky stuff stayed on the glass


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> But that would leave a sticky monitor ?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> wouldn't it be better if the sticky stuff stayed on the glass


That's exactly what I meant. It's 8am and I haven't slept yet.







It all stayed on the glass. None on the monitor.


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esaase*
> 
> Sorry of being impatient, but does anyone know if Catleap works with nvidia gts 450?


For you, and the other ones who are wondering if the monitor will work with their graphic cards, just google your card :

the first link takes you to the page of your card on AMD/Nvidia site, example for the gts 250

Now go to spec and look if your card have at least one *dual link* DVI port (the gts 250 has 2)

If your card is not a reference one, then there is 99% chance that it will be the same, buf if you want to be 100% sure, just go check on the AIB site (asus, gigabyte ....)


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlesK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *esaase*
> 
> Sorry of being impatient, but does anyone know if Catleap works with nvidia gts 450?
> 
> 
> 
> For you, and the other ones who are wondering if the monitor will work with their graphic cards, just google your card :
> 
> the first link takes you to the page of your card on AMD/Nvidia site, example for the gts 250
> 
> Now go to spec and look if your card have at least one *dual link* DVI port (the gts 250 has 2)
> 
> If your card is not a reference one, then there is 99% chance that it will be the same, buf if you want to be 100% sure, just go check on the AIB site (asus, gigabyte ....)
Click to expand...

It's not that simple. There are some cards with dual link DVI that will not display the BIOS or the Windows loading screen.


----------



## darrenb123

This is probably my last question before I make my order.

My video card's max resolution is 2560 x 1600. Having said that I'd imagine that running this monitor could create potential issues? or would I have nothing to worry about...

Sorry if this is a newb question lol


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> This is probably my last question before I make my order.
> My video card's max resolution is 2560 x 1600. Having said that I'd imagine that running this monitor could create potential issues? or would I have nothing to worry about...
> Sorry if this is a newb question lol


Nope, should run it great (gaming it may be a little slow FPS wise due to it having to pump out more pixels). These run at 2560x1440 so you are within your max res limit.


----------



## Steelbarrage

So I am interested in picking one of these up and I just had a few questions about it. My current monitor is an Asus VW246H which is nice but I would like to upgrade. Plus this is OCN where people buy unnecessary things all the time. I currently have an MSI 580 TFII but I haven't over clocked it because it pretty much maxes all games at a solid 40 to 60 fps. If you were to overclock this monitor is there any real advantage to getting over 100 Hz refresh rate? Also I have only seen one entry for an overclock using a 580 and that was at 67 Hz. Is this the max that the 580 can spit out? Also how much of a leap in screen quality will I get coming from my current monitor? Last question. Will my 580 have enough power and vram that the larger resolution wont nuke my current fps cap?


----------



## pokpok

Try a static tissue bQvle and try to move the hair tru the glass, doubt it will work but we never know.


----------



## xsmokex-1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esaase*
> 
> My new comp is delayed to next week
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I will try to find a computer somewhere for a weekend. Anyone knows if i can test this Catleap with nvidia GTS450 with 1 gb mem? Monitor advertisement said it would have "dos error". What does that mean?


Dos Error means you may not see the bios screens when you start up the computer. It will appear as if the display does not work until it gets into windows and loads the drivers needed.

The list that says what cards will have dos errors has been shown to not be completely accurate some people have problems with it others do not.


----------



## eduardmc

One question, I think we should contact the seller to see if is possible they sell the tempered glass all by itself. If is preglue then there shouldn't be a problem for us to install it.


----------



## countach

Why would you need to install the glass after you get the monitor?

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2 Beta-4


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> Why would you need to install the glass after you get the monitor?
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2 Beta-4


You don't have to, he's saying that he thinks we should contact the seller to see if it would be possible to order the tempered glass separately and put the it onto a monitor that doesn't come with it preinstalled.
If you order a monitor w/ tempered glass, it comes with it preinstalled.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> One question, I think we should contact the seller to see if is possible they sell the tempered glass all by itself. If is preglue then there shouldn't be a problem for us to install it.


Go ahead! Nothing is stopping you!







I definitely wouldn't want it on mine, but some people like it.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> Why would you need to install the glass after you get the monitor?
> Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2 Beta-4


I have been reading a lot of comment of people prefrering the tempered glass version AFTER they received the non-tempered version. I'm one of them and instead of buying a new monitor with tempered is easier to just purchase the tempered glass alone and install it ourselves. The problem with tempered was the dust or anything that could be behind the glass but this has been solve since in a minute we can remove the frame to clean the glass from behind.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steelbarrage*
> 
> So I am interested in picking one of these up and I just had a few questions about it. My current monitor is an Asus VW246H which is nice but I would like to upgrade. Plus this is OCN where people buy unnecessary things all the time. I currently have an MSI 580 TFII but I haven't over clocked it because it pretty much maxes all games at a solid 40 to 60 fps. If you were to overclock this monitor is there any real advantage to getting over 100 Hz refresh rate? Also I have only seen one entry for an overclock using a 580 and that was at 67 Hz. Is this the max that the 580 can spit out? Also how much of a leap in screen quality will I get coming from my current monitor? Last question. Will my 580 have enough power and vram that the larger resolution wont nuke my current fps cap?


I already owned a Lenovo L220x (22" CCFL-backlit 1920x1200 PVA panel, quite nice) and the Catleap is a very significant upgrade from that, so take from it what you will.

The 580 should be able to do at least 100Hz; all nVidia cards appear to be capable of doing so (assuming you get one of the monitors that does overclock; as it currently stands anything you buy off ebay today will very likely *not* overclock). People here are both trying to source replacement boards to upgrade the non-OC models, as well as trying to convince the manufacturer to re-introduce the overclockable units. We'll see how things pan out in a couple weeks, probably.

About the advantages of high refresh, it's tough to say as some people notice more than others, but if you play PC games at any kind of moderate level you will probably notice the difference immediately in terms of extra smoothness. Rendering games at 90fps+ is obviously a much higher target than 60fps; If you're currently running the games you play in the 40-60fps region you won't see any benefit to the higher refresh rate without upgrading your graphics, dropping your settings down (keep in mind this is a resolution upgrade, too - so that makes things harder to render) or playing older games (where such a setup really shines!).


----------



## esaase

Finally got picture on my Catleap. GTS 450 seems to be working ok, bios and splash-screens too.

I got a little bleed, little glow and a little black dot. Black dot looks different when looked from different angles. Luckily its down and left. Anyway i am more than happy







I will try to put in some serious Hz next week when i get my own rig with gtx680









edit: Tadaa: I can put at least 95 Hz with GTS 450 without too much tweaking. At 100 Hz it says "monitor does not support".


----------



## Steelbarrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I already owned a Lenovo L220x (22" CCFL-backlit 1920x1200 PVA panel, quite nice) and the Catleap is a very significant upgrade from that, so take from it what you will.
> The 580 should be able to do at least 100Hz; all nVidia cards appear to be capable of doing so (assuming you get one of the monitors that does overclock; as it currently stands anything you buy off ebay today will very likely *not* overclock). People here are both trying to source replacement boards to upgrade the non-OC models, as well as trying to convince the manufacturer to re-introduce the overclockable units. We'll see how things pan out in a couple weeks, probably.
> About the advantages of high refresh, it's tough to say as some people notice more than others, but if you play PC games at any kind of moderate level you will probably notice the difference immediately in terms of extra smoothness. Rendering games at 90fps+ is obviously a much higher target than 60fps; If you're currently running the games you play in the 40-60fps region you won't see any benefit to the higher refresh rate without upgrading your graphics, dropping your settings down (keep in mind this is a resolution upgrade, too - so that makes things harder to render) or playing older games (where such a setup really shines!).


The 40-60 fps I refer to is with BF3 on ultra as well as Crysis on Ultra which are about the most demanding games I have.
Neither of which get that much play time so the rest of the time I float at 100 fps easy.
I won't be able to buy this monitor for a few months anyway so I can wait for the replacement pcb.
Glad to hear the image quality is very nice though.


----------



## Evil-Jester

arg i wanna pic this up now just for the res lol i already got a nice 120Hz Samsung







but its hard to pass up this kind of deal. Bah if i wasn't going to Europe soon i would get it now lol


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

By any chance could someone post an easy to read guide on how to overclock the 2B Catleap with an ATI card? Will definitely throw some rep their way.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> By any chance could someone post an easy to read guide on how to overclock the 2B Catleap with an ATI card? Will definitely throw some rep their way.


See the OP for Hyper's approach.


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Jester*
> 
> arg i wanna pic this up now just for the res lol i already got a nice 120Hz Samsung
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but its hard to pass up this kind of deal. Bah if i wasn't going to Europe soon i would get it now lol


Had the same monitor you have before this. Receive my catleap monitor day 1, day 2 my samsung 120hz monitor was sold. That should give u an idea if it is better.


----------



## SkyPC

Ok, I have kind of a problem.

My Catleap is in customs now and the invoice I provided to them isnt good, they say that it doesnt match or something when I talked with the custom lady over the phone. I asked what are the taxes I will need to pay and she said 25% +-

Thats a LOT

The real problem here is that the price mentioned by Green-sum was 30$ on the invoice, and the customs people obviously read the documents attached to the package and figured out that it is worth more than 30$.

They said that that invoice is no good, and aksed me if i can provide them a purchase receit from ebay, since I mentioned I bought it there, but I was hassitant because if they make me pay 25% from 400$ I will get my monitor in half a year.

So I asked If there is another way to do this, ( the lady abviously suspected that I wanted to get by with lower taxes, but I don't think she cared). So I will have to go to customs tomorrow and fill some paper work in order for my package to be declared and I can withdraw it.

How do you think I should go about this? What summ I should state if they ask the worth of this purchase from which they will obviously calculate the tax i need to pay.

Technicaly the monitor is worth like 200 usd + 130 for shipping + 60 for perfect pixel. So the clean monitor is 200 usd.

Advise me in this situation please


----------



## Evil-Jester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> Had the same monitor you have before this. Receive my catleap monitor day 1, day 2 my samsung 120hz monitor was sold. That should give u an idea if it is better.


yes but i love the 120Hz soooo much and the colors as well and my monitor before this was a Dell U2410 that i still own that my friend is currently using lol so i have used IPS and know the diffrence but ARG life is hard sometimes hahahahaha. i think i shall wait to see if i can OC the new ones to 100Hz as that would make me happy lol


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Jester*
> 
> yes but i love the 120Hz soooo much and the colors as well and my monitor before this was a Dell U2410 that i still own that my friend is currently using lol so i have used IPS and know the diffrence but ARG life is hard sometimes hahahahaha. i think i shall wait to see if i can OC the new ones to 100Hz as that would make me happy lol


Best to be patient and keep and eye on this thread then.


----------



## crowat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Ok, I have kind of a problem.
> My Catleap is in customs now and the invoice I provided to them isnt good, they say that it doesnt match or something when I talked with the custom lady over the phone. I asked what are the taxes I will need to pay and she said 25% +-
> Thats a LOT
> The real problem here is that the price mentioned by Green-sum was 30$ on the invoice, and the customs people obviously read the documents attached to the package and figured out that it is worth more than 30$.
> They said that that invoice is no good, and aksed me if i can provide them a purchase receit from ebay, since I mentioned I bought it there, but I was hassitant because if they make me pay 25% from 400$ I will get my monitor in half a year.
> So I asked If there is another way to do this, ( the lady abviously suspected that I wanted to get by with lower taxes, but I don't think she cared). So I will have to go to customs tomorrow and fill some paper work in order for my package to be declared and I can withdraw it.
> How do you think I should go about this? What summ I should state if they ask the worth of this purchase from which they will obviously calculate the tax i need to pay.
> Technicaly the monitor is worth like 200 usd + 130 for shipping + 60 for perfect pixel. So the clean monitor is 200 usd.
> Advise me in this situation please


Wow, what country do you live in? Do you have to pay taxes on shipping? Does the Ebay invoice split out the shipping cost from the overall price?


----------



## Evil-Jester

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odilepont*
> 
> Best to be patient and keep and eye on this thread then.


thanks i shall. i would def get one at that resolution and with 100+hz at the drop of a hat


----------



## Strategist86

I'd look up the lowest Korean internal price you can find of the monitor, convert that, and then go with that... That should probably be less than $200...







That way you could also at least somewhat back up the claim if they ask for it.


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strategist86*
> 
> I'd look up the lowest Korean internal price you can find of the monitor, convert that, and then go with that... That should probably be less than $200...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That way you could also at least somewhat back up the claim if they ask for it.




That's what I plan on doing if I get in trouble at customs.


----------



## ezmo85

Hello World!

Just joined the forums after extensively reading the 2 or 3 threads regarding these panels. I have to say, I'm convinced. I would normally be very skeptical of these kinds of purchases, but it seems that overwhelmingly people are happy with these panels. Question though, where are these customs situations a problem? Odilepont, where are you located? I'm in the US, does anyone know what customs/import taxes/fees/procedures are associated with purchasing one of these here? Assuming it's not too much of a problem I just may order one of these in the next week or two...

Thanks for any input!


----------



## Chobbit

Has anyone paid for the perfect pixel service and can you get them to make sure theres no dust or muck under a tampered glass with this service seems as they will have to open the box to do the initial checks?

Would people recommend the glass monitor over the none glass monitor


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil-Jester*
> 
> yes but i love the 120Hz soooo much and the colors as well and my monitor before this was a Dell U2410 that i still own that my friend is currently using lol so i have used IPS and know the diffrence but ARG life is hard sometimes hahahahaha. i think i shall wait to see if i can OC the new ones to 100Hz as that would make me happy lol


i did not miss 120hz, color







, i guess you havent seen an ips. This catleap blow the samsung away in colors. I had to expend 2 hour adjusting color in the samsung, This monitor from the get go has even better more acurrate color than i was able to acomplish with the samsung.

the trade off

you loose 120hz

for all this.

2x higher resolution, games look 2x cleaner, sharper and more detail. (for this reason alone you should upgrade)
Destop windows, text look sharper, can fit more things in the screens. (view 2 full website at the same time)

Colors compare to samsung are 10X better, you get such amazing natural vibrant color (owned both monitor)

Viewing angle, Samsung with it's cheap TN screen you can only view it from the front, color shift from any other angle.
this monitor no viewing angle problem (Super-IPS screen)

This monitor is glossy but a little less glossy than samsung, Don't know about your samsung by mine use to suffer from back light leakage while this has zero leakage.

i bought my catleap for $370 and sold my 120hz for $500. Better screen, higher resolution and $130 in my pocket


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> Would people recommend the glass monitor over the none glass monitor


Some people prefer the tempered glass version over the non-glass version but for some others it's the other way around.
There's a chance the tempered glass version has a bit/bits of dust stuck underneath it, which could be removed by removing the glass and cleaning it/lifting the glass a little and getting it out from underneath it with something although I haven't seen a post confirming this with pictures etc.

The tempered glass is supposed to protect the panel from Korean nerd rage so I guess it's also a bit of protection from when you're shipping it halfway across the world.


----------



## Sorcerak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sorcerak*
> 
> Been waiting for my monitor for 10 days now from Greensum, no ideas when I'll receive it.. definitely NOT recommended from me. And I'm canadian as well.
> Good luck on that. I fully expect to pay taxes at the very least depending on what is declared on the package. I saw an earlier post mentioning 50$ value. There might be custom-processing fees on top of it - I will post about it when I (finally) receive it.


Update: Just received it. Mint condition, tempered glass with speakers. It's a 2C. No taxes or processing fees whatsoever - was declared at 30$. Kinda surprised I wasn't asked even a few dollars.

Took 12 days from Greensum and it wasn't bubble wrapped like I've seen on some pictures. Just in a large box smudged between two smaller cardboard boxes.


----------



## eduardmc

after having my catleap now for 2 weeks i just purchased squaretrade 3 year warranty for $58. The monitor seems that its going to last but now i feel safer that is under warranty with squaretrade. If they can't fix it (which probably they won't since is a korean unit) they will reimburse me all my money back.

EDIT: I passed 1000 post, i'm officially a overclock.net LEGIT member


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crowat*
> 
> Wow, what country do you live in? Do you have to pay taxes on shipping? Does the Ebay invoice split out the shipping cost from the overall price?


Sorry man, ye I left out almost the most important detail. I live in Estonia now.

And I will probably go with 180$ on the monitor, any site where I could backup such a price?


----------



## darrenb123

is declaring it for $100 too much? I was told I shouldn't go over $50 but green sum said if the customs catch on than there's nothing he/she could do (obviously). It seems one of you got hit with the suspicion at $30 but another got away with it so I'd say YMMV? What do you guys think.


----------



## SkyPC

Declaring a big box weighing 7kg+ for 30$ is dumb.


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Declaring a big box weighing 7kg+ for 30$ is dumb.


Aye, It's to avoid import/export costs for them I guess.
You might be able to pay some extra for the monitor and have them declare it correctly so it won't get stuck at customs.


----------



## MasterG

Anyone from the US having customs issues? I think I heard about the UK and Canada having issues. I'm thinking about jumping in on one of these monitors but dont' want to be hit with extra fees.


----------



## sinter

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MasterG*
> 
> Anyone from the US having customs issues? I think I heard about the UK and Canada having issues. I'm thinking about jumping in on one of these monitors but dont' want to be hit with extra fees.


There are no customs issues in the US:
1. There is no VAT in the US
2. The US has a free trade agreement with S. Korea so there is no import duty on monitors either


----------



## bQvle

Okay, just pulled of my tempered glass, its very easy! just heat one corner, use a sharp flat strong object to crank the first corner loose, then gently losen it all the way around. (carefull, when you are about half way it jumbs off, lucky it didnt break) Glue stays on glass, as HyperMatix tried to say







.


----------



## cubanresourceful

Just received mine. No dead pixels, everything working perfectly. Ordered March 26, 2012, got it today, March 29, 2012. 3 day shipping! Got it for $350 from bigclothcraft.







Will post pictures soon.


----------



## iLLmAtiCiAn

I just got my monitor today but it is showing a black screen







I used the dual dvi link to my Asus Direct CU II 6950

Anyone have any suggestions?


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLmAtiCiAn*
> 
> I just got my monitor today but it is showing a black screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the dual dvi link to my Asus Direct CU II 6950
> Anyone have any suggestions?


You can try another Cabel, and messure the output of the powerbrick. some bricks have had trouble with 110V even though they should support it.

Okay, so its dark now! time to check for backlight bleed. Actually, i saw none at all, only at this picture, im able to see its a little brighter in lower right corner, might be the picture, as i wasn't able to tell with my eyes! to me its perfect!


----------



## tiktok

I've been eyeing this monitor for a while now and the feedback on PQ & QC appears to be good.

I noticed that they have strict requirements for the HW to utilize the DVI-D dual link connector.

Has anyone tried connecting an HDMI to DVI-D dual link adapter and sucessfully got 1920x1080 to be displayed?


----------



## iLLmAtiCiAn

Hmm.. the monitor powers on fine but it just displays a black image, I have tried it on both my gaming rig and the HTPC (one with 6950 and other with 4670).

On the 6950, it fails to even show any image, the 4670 recognizes it and will allow my HTPC to accept it as a working monitor but just doesn't show any image... sigh...


----------



## Bacchus451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cubanresourceful*
> 
> Just received mine. No dead pixels, everything working perfectly. Ordered March 26, 2012, got it today, March 29, 2012. 3 day shipping! Got it for $350 from bigclothcraft.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post pictures soon.


Everything is exactly the same for me. Bigclothcraft, offered 348, and shipped in 3 days.

This monitor is the most amazing thing I've ever seen.


----------



## illli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLmAtiCiAn*
> 
> Hmm.. the monitor powers on fine but it just displays a black image, I have tried it on both my gaming rig and the HTPC (one with 6950 and other with 4670).
> On the 6950, it fails to even show any image, the 4670 recognizes it and will allow my HTPC to accept it as a working monitor but just doesn't show any image... sigh...


get a better quality dvi cable


----------



## darrenb123

Ordering the Hdmi version tonight!


----------



## eduardmc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Okay, just pulled of my tempered glass, its very easy! just heat one corner, use a sharp flat strong object to crank the first corner loose, then gently losen it all the way around. (carefull, when you are about half way it jumbs off, lucky it didnt break) Glue stays on glass, as HyperMatix tried to say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Any reason of why did you remove the tempered glass?


----------



## DarkSimulant

I bought the Q270 SE version from dcsamsungmall. Ordered on the 25th, received it on the 27th. Crazy fast shipping. There is one stuck pixel, but I don't mind. The stand is not that bad... but I will get a replacement eventually. I still left the plastic on.



It's a 2C model as expected. I hope the overclock pcbs happen!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Just an FYI on the 120hz. Every time I've left it at 120hz, and turned the monitor off before going to bed, the bottom part of my screen was messed up in the morning. And it would only get fixed by me switching to 100hz, rebooting the PC, then going to 118hz, 119hz, then back to 120hz. And it'll stay stable until another monitor power off. Not sure why, and not sure if it affects all monitors. But just a heads up. The screen being messed up might make it hard for some to fix as you may not be able to make your way to screen resolution change section. What I do is I use Splashtop, which can be used from an android phone, iphone, ipad/ipod, and even the hp touchpad. It'll let you take over your computer screen and make the required changes without distortion so you can fix the problem easily.


----------



## wedge22

I received my screen yesterday but have not even had time to open it up yet, maybe tonight.


----------



## Supertrucker

@iLLmAtiCiAn

Did you try both bios switches on your card, assuming you have the two default bioses on there. The asus dcuII cards dont have a normal dual bios like other radeon 6950s, one is set to run two single link dvi and the 4 display ports, the other disables the displayports and enables dual link dvi.


----------



## kevinsbane

I don't think I can hit 120 hz with my display. It's not an issue of the pixel clock, as even at lower resolutions, it refuses to go above 116. So close, yet so far lol. Oh wells. I tried with your custom timings and am still getting problems. Don't think it's going to work.


----------



## Steelbarrage

Why all the obsession with 120 Hz?
I must be missing something.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't think I can hit 120 hz with my display. It's not an issue of the pixel clock, as even at lower resolutions, it refuses to go above 116. So close, yet so far lol. Oh wells. I tried with your custom timings and am still getting problems. Don't think it's going to work.


You tried doing your own manual timings too? And have you tried the step-up method of going up 1hz at a time from 116-117-118-119-120?

Because technically it should work. The PBS are 120hz rated. As toasted said, he actually got his to 123hz at a lower resolution. Also are you using the stock dvi cable or did you buy a professional one?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steelbarrage*
> 
> Why all the obsession with 120 Hz?
> I must be missing something.


Common multiple of 24 and 30 so works fine even if you're watching a 30fps movie as it can split it up evenly 1 frame to 4. Or a 24fps bluray on a 1 frame to 5 basis. Or a 60fps video at 1 frame to 2. And also 120hz means nvidia 3d vision kit. 3d 1440p? **** yeah...


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eduardmc*
> 
> Any reason of why did you remove the tempered glass?


I ordered the tempered glass version, just in hope it would be a 2B version.
Its was very glossy, right in your head!.. somehow it feels better with the benzel bevel.

Also as a bonus, i feel like im getting less eye-strain now. but it might just be because im getting used to it.

And I had some dust behind the glass


----------



## Steelbarrage

I cant see many people having enough horsepower to run nvidia 3d at 1440p.
I can understand the equal multiplier of fps but if that is that big of a deal just buy an actual 120 Hz monitor.
The cheapest option isn't always the best.
This monitor is great because you can get so much more out of it at the given price point.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steelbarrage*
> 
> I cant see many people having enough horsepower to run nvidia 3d at 1440p.
> I can understand the equal multiplier of fps but if that is that big of a deal just buy an actual 120 Hz monitor.
> The cheapest option isn't always the best.
> This monitor is great because you can get so much more out of it at the given price point.


It's not about the "cheapest option." It's that there "are" no 120hz 1440p monitors. And for me, I don't think I'd game in 3D. But I wouldn't mind watching some BluRay's in 3D since I don't want to upgrade my HDTV yet. Paid $3k for it like 2 months before 3d came out so really don't wanna upgrade it yet. Will wait till some new revolution in standard 3d tech. Especially considering this monitor has higher resolution than anything a TV can currently display.









And I'd disagree with you on the lack of horsepower comment. As we've seen, people in this thread have often bought multiple monitors, and many have purchased gtx 680's or will be soon. We're not the ghetto poor club. That's for sure.


----------



## Steelbarrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> It's not about the "cheapest option." It's that there "are" no 120hz 1440p monitors. And for me, I don't think I'd game in 3D. But I wouldn't mind watching some BluRay's in 3D since I don't want to upgrade my HDTV yet. Paid $3k for it like 2 months before 3d came out so really don't wanna upgrade it yet. Will wait till some new revolution in standard 3d tech. Especially considering this monitor has higher resolution than anything a TV can currently display.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I'd disagree with you on the lack of horsepower comment. As we've seen, people in this thread have often bought multiple monitors, and many have purchased gtx 680's or will be soon. We're not the ghetto poor club. That's for sure.


For 3D Bluray I completely agree with you.
I didn't actually get the impression that that many here had 680's.
I know they are more than enough to drive these but I didn't see a lot of posts with people scrambling for 680's so they could game in 3D.
I was under the impression that the 680's were being used to run the multi monitor set ups.
Edit:
I am in the ghetto poor club.








I'm in college but I want one of these screens so bad.
Hopefully my internship will pay well.
Plus I just picked up my 580 over Christmas.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steelbarrage*
> 
> For 3D Bluray I completely agree with you.
> I didn't actually get the impression that that many here had 680's.
> I know they are more than enough to drive these but I didn't see a lot of posts with people scrambling for 680's so they could game in 3D.
> I was under the impression that the 680's were being used to run the multi monitor set ups.
> Edit:
> I am in the ghetto poor club.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm in college but I want one of these screens so bad.
> Hopefully my internship will pay well.
> Plus I just picked up my 580 over Christmas.


580's a fine ass card. I wouldn't upgrade that until the GK110's come out. That thing will be 2.5x faster than your 580!!! Then you'll be golden. But yeah I've had a lot of people message me here saying they either have a 680, are waiting for their 680 to come, or will be picking one up very soon. Especially now that we know with a 680, you can run (most times) at 120hz whereas you couldn't do that with other video cards.


----------



## Steelbarrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> 580's a fine ass card. I wouldn't upgrade that until the GK110's come out. That thing will be 2.5x faster than your 580!!! Then you'll be golden. But yeah I've had a lot of people message me here saying they either have a 680, are waiting for their 680 to come, or will be picking one up very soon. Especially now that we know with a 680, you can run (most times) at 120hz whereas you couldn't do that with other video cards.


Ok I'm not privy to those messages so you obviously have more information than I do.
Plus I got my card from an OCN user for a low price.
Very few 580s on the marketplace now have beat it.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> You tried doing your own manual timings too? And have you tried the step-up method of going up 1hz at a time from 116-117-118-119-120?
> Because technically it should work. The PBS are 120hz rated. As toasted said, he actually got his to 123hz at a lower resolution. Also are you using the stock dvi cable or did you buy a professional one?


I tried going up one step at a time. Manual timings result in really weird colours. I am using the stock DVI cable, so potentially that may be an issue. Not sure if I want to "step up" to a "professional" DVI cable. We shall see.


----------



## darrenb123

How long did it take, for those who ordered from greensum, to get the tracking number and whatnot? We did the transaction over PayPal directly and can't seem to figure it out.

Nvm got it when I woke up in an email. This thing is fast. Already departed from the airport.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> How long did it take, for those who ordered from greensum, to get the tracking number and whatnot? We did the transaction over PayPal directly and can't seem to figure it out and he takes forever to email back.


My first monitor took about a day to get the info - my second took a week or so because it was when they were moving warehouses or whatever. In both cases the monitor was here within 2-3 days of getting shipped.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> How long did it take, for those who ordered from greensum, to get the tracking number and whatnot? We did the transaction over PayPal directly and can't seem to figure it out and he takes forever to email back.


Fear not. I bought through Paypal as well. Unit is sitting at customs in my country now. Odd that he hasn't replied to you. Ask him when you to expect the monitor to be shipped and when he'll give you a tracking number. Should have your answer then.


----------



## miami33019

People,

Did anybody find a replacement for the standard power supply they ship with the Catleaps (Welltronics WTS-2405W)?
I got two monitors, on one of them the power supply is DOA.

Any suggestions?

Thank you!


----------



## erocker

Return the unit with the bad power supply. Or contact the seller and work something out.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *miami33019*
> 
> People,
> Did anybody find a replacement for the standard power supply they ship with the Catleaps (Welltronics WTS-2405W)?
> I got two monitors, on one of them the power supply is DOA.
> Any suggestions?
> Thank you!


Why don't peeps check the OP? There is a link to eBay re: power supplies. Now the one on there has shot way up in price since it looks like Shimian and Crossover owners have had to buy them (those monitors don't come with the 110-240v versions apparently.)


----------



## atmosfar

The AC adaptors have been priced at over $100 because the seller got a bad batch and didn't want anyone to buy one while they were waiting fort the new ones to arrive.


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLmAtiCiAn*
> 
> I just got my monitor today but it is showing a black screen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used the dual dvi link to my Asus Direct CU II 6950
> Anyone have any suggestions?


The 6950 DCII cards (and others DCII cards as well i guess) have one Dual link DVI, *but, it is not activated by default*, you need to change the switch position on the side of the card.



edit: I've just seen that it doesn't work either with a 4670, maybe this is not this problem here


----------



## atmosfar

Is there a list of links to Catleap sellers?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Mine is waiting for me at my local fedex facility, i will officially be a member of the club in about 3 hours! Now if I could just find another gtx 680 in stock to order to complete my spending spree

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## henn

Argh!

Having a nightmare with a Q270 I recently received.

So far only got as far as a flashing green light.. EDID on a number of machines is just reporting a 640x480x60Hz generic monitor, the Nivida control panel on one machine crashes when I try to change the resolution, the Intel Control Panel on another sees nothing.

Any tips on what to do to diagnose the problem before I escalate up eBay? Unclear right now if the firmware of the monitor is dead somehow or it's a power supply issue?

Thanks in advance for any advice!!


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henn*
> 
> Argh!
> Having a nightmare with a Q270 I recently received.
> So far only got as far as a flashing green light.. EDID on a number of machines is just reporting a 640x480x60Hz generic monitor, the Nivida control panel on one machine crashes when I try to change the resolution, the Intel Control Panel on another sees nothing.
> Any tips on what to do to diagnose the problem before I escalate up eBay? Unclear right now if the firmware of the monitor is dead somehow or it's a power supply issue?
> Thanks in advance for any advice!!


Post an image of the adapter you're using.
What video card are you using? Make sure it supports dual link DVI-D.
Sellers say these monitors don't work with onboard graphics.


----------



## SkyPC

Got my catleap today.

Problem is that all i get when plugging in the power is a steady Red light.

What could be the problem?

I live in Estonia, and my video card is Saphire Radeon 6950.

I did try to plug the cable in both of the inputs, but nothing changed.

Was totaly exhausted draging the box by hands all across the town from the post office, and now this


----------



## dumpsterj

just came in this morning. very fast shipping from green sum ! I'll update more info later.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henn*
> 
> Argh!
> Having a nightmare with a Q270 I recently received.
> So far only got as far as a flashing green light.. EDID on a number of machines is just reporting a 640x480x60Hz generic monitor, the Nivida control panel on one machine crashes when I try to change the resolution, the Intel Control Panel on another sees nothing.
> Any tips on what to do to diagnose the problem before I escalate up eBay? Unclear right now if the firmware of the monitor is dead somehow or it's a power supply issue?
> Thanks in advance for any advice!!


You can follow the method in the first post for how to OC Nvidia cards. It shows you how to install a proper driver. Other than that, gotta make sure you have a compatible video card, and that the monitor is plugged in to your dual-link dvi port.


----------



## tiktok

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> Is there a list of links to Catleap sellers?


Search ebay for Yamakasi monitor
Then you can narrow down your search to monitor size on the right hand side options.


----------



## SkyPC

Guys, help me with the Red light Issue. I get no picture from my monitor. Everything is connected, but the monitor constantly shows me red light on the lower right side bar.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Guys, help me with the Red light Issue. I get no picture from my monitor. Everything is connected, but the monitor constantly shows me red light on the lower right side bar.


Not sure about yours but red light on mine means it's off and you need to press the power button. flashing green means it's on but no signal/unable to display signal. And solid green means it's connected and displaying properly.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Guys, help me with the Red light Issue. I get no picture from my monitor. Everything is connected, but the monitor constantly shows me red light on the lower right side bar.


Do you have a multimeter available to check the voltage output from the power adapter brick? Should be 24v or so.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Solid red light can be several things - one of which has been mentioned - a power brick issue. Make sure you are getting 24v from the brick.

The second issue could be loose wiring inside the unit itself. If it's a red light only deal, then your OSD wiring to the DVI board could be loose (or the wiring from the DVI board to the panel strip wiring.)

If you get flashing green light issues, it can be:

1. Your GPU is not supported;

2. Your drivers suck (do a clean install);

3. Your cable sucks (the cable that comes with the monitor is hit or miss with whether it will work properly. One of mine worked while the other didn't.); AND/OR

4. Loose wiring inside the unit (DVI connection to Panel PCB connection.)

With these monitors you can have a combination of issues. So go from easiest to hardest - Check that your card is supported, check brick voltage, try a better DVI cable, clean install of drivers, open her up and re-connect all wiring.

But anyone wanting help with monitor issues needs to report several things:

1. What type of GPU?

2. Current drivers installed?

3. Tried different DVI cable?

4. Tried any of the other things listed above?

The more detail we have the better we can help trouble shoot the problem.


----------



## SkyPC

Ok I am sorry for wasting your time and typed letters. Monitor was indeed off, and I literally clapped my hands like a little kid when found out the "On" button.

Catleap seems to be with no dead pixels, except one, i am not sure if its a dust which i cant clean off or a dead pixel. But its in a corner left side.


----------



## pokpok

WANT 1 NOMNMNMONOMNONMONMONNONMNMNOMONNOM


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Hi !

I just picked up my screen (catleap with tempered glass) from the post office and just got it hocked up. So far i cant find a single dead pixel.
But near the left bottom corner theres a chunk of dust and its on the screen so a little knock on the glass wont remove it.
When checking the glass around the screen i can see some places where the glass aint against the bezel either.
Maybe it loosen some during shipping.

How easy is it to open this screen to get rid of this dust?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Ok I am sorry for wasting your time and typed letters. Monitor was indeed off, and I literally clapped my hands like a little kid when found out the "On" button.
> Catleap seems to be with no dead pixels, except one, i am not sure if its a dust which i cant clean off or a dead pixel. But its in a corner left side.


That is one serious DOH! moment!!!























Running a few test programs - see the OP will show you if it truly is s dead pixel.

I suppose I need to adjust the list to include "turn on the monitor"!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Please, please please read the OP when you have an issue. Most of the time the issue has been addressed (numerous times) and you can find help there. We are getting close to 2000 posts and tons are re-hash questions of asked and answered. If the OP is missing info - shoot me a PM and I will cull that data and include it. I will be doing some updates this morning as well.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Ok I am sorry for wasting your time and typed letters. Monitor was indeed off, and I literally clapped my hands like a little kid when found out the "On" button.
> Catleap seems to be with no dead pixels, except one, i am not sure if its a dust which i cant clean off or a dead pixel. But its in a corner left side.


Hahaha, oh my god. At least, I know I won't do that mistake when I receive mines.

#1 : Plug monitors
#2 : Turn on Monitors


----------



## HyperMatrix

^^ I totally called it.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Another call for people to complete the owners and OC surveys. Only a few minutes out of your life to help others out (especially when it comes to video cards supported). With so many posts here, the more data we can have in the first 2-3 means less on the back end (assuming of course people look there for answers first!)

Thanks!


----------



## dumpsterj

got mine hooked up , using the cable in the box everything works great , got a 2c serial so no OC for me. I tried manually setting 100 then 85 and if it wont do 85 at least hell with it i can live with 60hz. The color on mine seems pretty spot on as well dont have the green tint as some have described. Turned brightness down and contrast up , looks great. pretty much flawless panel , havent found anything in or on the screen , and havent found any dead pixels yet. VERY VERY HAPPY !!!


----------



## Slaktfarfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Please, please please read the OP when you have an issue. Most of the time the issue has been addressed (numerous times) and you can find help there. We are getting close to 2000 posts and tons are re-hash questions of asked and answered. If the OP is missing info - shoot me a PM and I will cull that data and include it. I will be doing some updates this morning as well.


I read a few pages back and found that some had used the hair dryer solution so i tried that. I heated the left bottom corner up.
and then i just lifted up the glass a bit just as much so i could blow in to the screen and the dust fell off.
So i now have a no pixel dead screen and also a dust free screen.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> ^^ I totally called it.


Yup, funny funny ****.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

OC PCBs updated in OP.


----------



## SkyPC

Yes yes, silly me









Id like to tell my experience with the custom fees I had to do.

As you may have read, I had problems with customs, they were saying something like they cant declar it, the invoice doesnt match the product. Must have something to do with the 30$ price tag on it.

Anyway, they asked me to send them my purchase invoice from ebay with a price tag of 430$ from which they would make me pay 25%, thats a lot. So I was hasitant to provide it and asked them over the phone is there another way to do it, and they told me that I can go to customs physicaly and sit down with customs lady and fill forms etc.

So I did. I entered the Customs, greeted a nice young lady which unfortunately told me that this issue is not here speciality and asked me to follow here to another office. She opened the dor and my heart skiped a beat. I saw a lady who was about 60, she didnt raise her ayes to me, just told me to sit down and she began to type something on the pc. She looked like some1 who has seen all the shinanigan regarding taxes.

Well, durring this process she asked me what is this package, "electronics" ?

I answered, Its a small monitor ( lol)

Later on she asked me if the price 30$ is really right? To which i only answered with a corny "Well, its from Korea". She just carried on.

I think she called "Bul****" on me from the first time she laid her ayes on the invoice paper.

The fact that sending the item costed 114 USD as I remember and the actual Electronic inside were claimed to be 30$ made me feel even more unconfortable.

But thank god she didnt do no google searches on the monitor what not, I wouldnt like to lie there. So I kept my answers the way they were...

But she understood that the wages in Estonia are the way they are, she let me off easy.

Lesson her is, by no chance send the customs people the ebay site of the item, and try to avoid naming the price of the monitor.

And the way she calculated the customs was: the 30$ stated by Green-sum + shipping price, which was about 114 USD I guess, and made me pay 25% from that sum which was 19 euro.

Could have been a lot worse,

p.s.

My monitor is buzzing,


----------



## cubanresourceful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Another call for people to complete the owners and OC surveys. Only a few minutes out of your life to help others out (especially when it comes to video cards supported). With so many posts here, the more data we can have in the first 2-3 means less on the back end (assuming of course people look there for answers first!)
> 
> Thanks!


Where are these surveys? I look at OP and nothing. Unless you mean the poll in this thread and the poll in the other thread?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> Yes yes, silly me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Id like to tell my experience with the custom fees I had to do.
> As you may have read, I had problems with customs, they were saying something like they cant declar it, the invoice doesnt match the product. Must have something to do with the 30$ price tag on it.
> Anyway, they asked me to send them my purchase invoice from ebay with a price tag of 430$ from which they would make me pay 25%, thats a lot. So I was hasitant to provide it and asked them over the phone is there another way to do it, and they told me that I can go to customs physicaly and sit down with customs lady and fill forms etc.
> So I did. I entered the Customs, greeted a nice young lady which unfortunately told me that this issue is not here speciality and asked me to follow here to another office. She opened the dor and my heart skiped a beat. I saw a lady who was about 60, she didnt raise her ayes to me, just told me to sit down and she began to type something on the pc. She looked like some1 who has seen all the shinanigan regarding taxes.
> Well, durring this process she asked me what is this package, "electronics" ?
> I answered, Its a small monitor ( lol)
> Later on she asked me if the price 30$ is really right? To which i only answered with a corny "Well, its from Korea". She just carried on.
> I think she called "Bul****" on me from the first time she laid her ayes on the invoice paper.
> The fact that sending the item costed 114 USD as I remember and the actual Electronic inside were claimed to be 30$ made me feel even more unconfortable.
> But thank god she didnt do no google searches on the monitor what not, I wouldnt like to lie there. So I kept my answers the way they were...
> But she understood that the wages in Estonia are the way they are, she let me off easy.
> Lesson her is, by no chance send the customs people the ebay site of the item, and try to avoid naming the price of the monitor.
> And the way she calculated the customs was: the 30$ stated by Green-sum + shipping price, which was about 114 USD I guess, and made me pay 25% from that sum which was 19 euro.
> Could have been a lot worse,
> p.s.
> My monitor is buzzing,


Glad you got out there without a huge bill.

Buzzing monitor? Check the OP for possible fixes.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cubanresourceful*
> 
> Where are these surveys? I look at OP and nothing. Unless you mean the poll in this thread and the poll in the other thread?


When I say OP I mean original post - there are 4 of them - the first 4 in THIS thread.


----------



## cubanresourceful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> When I say OP I mean original post - there are 4 of them - the first 4 in THIS thread.


Oh, my bad.







I only checked the "Original Post", not the ones below it.







Will go fill out now!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cubanresourceful*
> 
> Oh, my bad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I only checked the "Original Post", not the ones below it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will go fill out now!










No worries! I reserved the first 4 so the first post wasn't super long. Thanks!


----------



## kevinsbane

How do I revise my overclocking results? I've since moved from an HD 5770 -> GTX 680, and my OC results are now out of range of the survey (115hz).


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I need to adjust the survey now we can go beyond 100hz with 680s. There will be a 101hz - 120hz option. I will make the change for you.


----------



## Qiko

Hey Scribby,

What do ya mean "These will be destroyed during the engineering process so I am out the boards!"

Do ya mean, like ya might break your monitor while testing? Or these pcbs need to be destroyed after testing?

thanks!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qiko*
> 
> Hey Scribby,
> What do ya mean "These will be destroyed during the engineering process so I am out the boards!"
> Do ya mean, like ya might break your monitor while testing? Or these pcbs need to be destroyed after testing?
> thanks!


They will need to remove all the components and cut the boards apart to get at the layers to copy them. I am not sending my monitor panel, just the extra set of PCBs I was able to purchase.


----------



## SkyPC

Yeeey Scribby. I hope for good results


----------



## dumpsterj

man this resolution is kicking my dual 470's collective asses in bf3. not enough vram









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumpsterj*
> 
> man this resolution is kicking my dual 470's collective asses in bf3. not enough vram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Are you using MSAA? If yes I would recommend to disable that. But yeah I regularly go over 2gb playing BF3.


----------



## alricking

What happen to game when your graphic card goes over the limited vram on the card?


----------



## Qiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> They will need to remove all the components and cut the boards apart to get at the layers to copy them. I am not sending my monitor panel, just the extra set of PCBs I was able to purchase.


awesome, looking forward to the results


----------



## C_H_T

Hi everyone,

Just saw this thread about the great Yamakasi Catleap monitor, which you can get for an amazing price. I can't believe you can actually buy a 27'' S-IPS 1440p monitor for less than 270 euros (SE-version) and around 360 euros for the Multi version, btw I'm from the Netherlands.
I'm thinking about getting this monitor, but first I got a few questions:

I'm thinking getting the Multi version, so I can hook up my PS3. I'd like to ask, how does the monitor (up)scale?
Furthermore, I have heard that the input lag will be more noticeable with the Multi version than the SE-version, but for example when I'm using PC mode (hook up with DVI-D) to play some games on the PC, will the input lag be on par with the SE-version (the version with only the DVI-D input)?

Lastly, does anyone from Europe or more specifically the Netherlands (besides member Radeon915) ordered and received the monitor, I find it to much by paying ~50 euros for tax and import rights. From which seller is the best to order from, in terms of service, shipping, package protection and able to check for any dead or stuck pixels?

Thanks in advance.


----------



## DarkrReign2049

I have had my monitor for a week or two. I have no dead pixels and no back light bleed that I can see. This picture is of mine (Left) and my coworkers(Right). I wanted to see how two looked. That is way too much monitor for my desk. I have a 24" Samsung next to it now and it's find for me. Excuse the crappy cell phone pick. Sometimes when I turn it on I get streaks of color that move from the bottom of the screen to the top. Other than that I love this thing.


----------



## Otbreaker

And what Monitor model has your co-worker? I don't see a lot of quality difference.


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C_H_T*
> 
> From which seller is the best to order from, in terms of service, shipping, package protection and able to check for any dead or stuck pixels?
> Thanks in advance.


The CrossOver 27Q seems to get the best packaging, smallest packaging as well which should make the "$30-$100 gift" thing the sellers put on the boxes more believable.
Someone in the PCBANK 3VIEW PB2700 thread got 7 dead pixels even after the seller put perfect pixel in the item title so I still think paying extra for a pixel check is as much of a gamble as buying an item that doesn't have it. He did manage to get the seller (cool-guys) to refund him $70 after telling him about it, I suppose sending the monitor back would've been another option.

You should contact multiple sellers and ask them about their return/refund policies/other things you care about, see how long they take to reply and what promises they make.
Other than that just search for a seller's name in this thread using the Search This Thread button to get some opinions from people in these threads.

More threads about different models/brands in here.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

*PLEASE HELP!*

I need some info that I can add to the OP - if you have experience in either of the two below please *PM* me with your response (please do not post it in the thread).

*1. TAXES, VAT, OTHER CHARGES - I need info from Canadian, European, African, Australian, Asian, you name-ian, buyers and their experiences with customs and the fees associated with importing these wonders (No USA peeps need respond - free trade and all that!)*

*2. PS3/360 Owners on scaling, connecting, etc. on multi-monitors (all please respond.)*

Again, please shoot me a *PM* - not a post here! We have almost 2000 posts and it is getting extremely hard and time-consuming for me to manage.

Thanks for your help!

*EDIT: Canada - DONE! Thanks to Shane1244 and kevinsbane*


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Odilepont*
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q seems to get the best packaging, smallest packaging as well which should make the "$30-$100 gift" thing the sellers put on the boxes more believable.
> Someone in the PCBANK 3VIEW PB2700 thread got 7 dead pixels even after the seller put perfect pixel in the item title so I still think paying extra for a pixel check is as much of a gamble as buying an item that doesn't have it. He did manage to get the seller (cool-guys) to refund him $70 after telling him about it, I suppose sending the monitor back would've been another option.
> You should contact multiple sellers and ask them about their return/refund policies/other things you care about, see how long they take to reply and what promises they make.
> Other than that just search for a seller's name in this thread using the Search This Thread button to get some opinions from people in these threads.
> More threads about different models/brands in here.


This is the Catleap Club - please keep your posts relevant as we are reaching epic post counts in under 3 weeks.


----------



## DarkrReign2049

They are both Catleap, no glass, no speaker. Sorry for that horrible picture. I will get another up tonight hopefully.


----------



## atmosfar

They're both Catleaps, read the logo on the bezel.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Otbreaker*
> 
> And what Monitor model has your co-worker? I don't see a lot of quality difference.


I do. One came with a melted bezel!







(I know it's the shrink wrapping.)


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumpsterj*
> 
> man this resolution is kicking my dual 470's collective asses in bf3. not enough vram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


SO I supposse I should wait for the 4gb version of the 680? I was about to order one with this monitor.... but I dont want to spend $500 on a GPU and find out I don't have enough VRAM to play comfortably at 1440p.


----------



## C_H_T

A quick question: Does the Yamakasi Catleap SE-version support pixelmapping/ 1:1?
If it does support, It will display the console resolution natively. I know the Dell 2711 does.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I need to adjust the survey now we can go beyond 100hz with 680s. There will be a 101hz - 120hz option. I will make the change for you.


Scribby, I do believe I hold the 2560x1440 refresh rate record for both ati (105hz) and nvidia (120hz) since no one else seems to report back here that these methods have worked for them!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> SO I supposse I should wait for the 4gb version of the 680? I was about to order one with this monitor.... but I dont want to spend $500 on a GPU and find out I don't have enough VRAM to play comfortably at 1440p.


Always good to wait for the 4gb version. But in sli mode, bf3 runs between 95-160 fps with all settings completely maxed out, with 2x MSAA and with fxaa on. Ad uses just around 1500-1600mb vram for it. So it looks beautiful. And you have to turn off motion blur. Not sure why it's even there. Maybe helps those with slower refresh rates?

But yeah. As of yet, I've seen no limitations with 2gb memory. But doesn't mean it can't pop out in a month on a new game. So 2gb is enough. For now. 4g is safer though.


----------



## Strategist86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Always good to wait for the 4gb version. But in sli mode, bf3 runs between 95-160 fps with all settings completely maxed out, with 2x MSAA and with fxaa on. Ad uses just around 1500-1600mb vram for it. So it looks beautiful. And you have to turn off motion blur. Not sure why it's even there. Maybe helps those with slower refresh rates?
> But yeah. As of yet, I've seen no limitations with 2gb memory. But doesn't mean it can't pop out in a month on a new game. So 2gb is enough. For now. 4g is safer though.


That's for a single monitor though, if you want to run multiple monitors the memory does become important I believe...?







(figured that was important to mention)


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Strategist86*
> 
> That's for a single monitor though, if you want to run multiple monitors the memory does become important I believe...?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (figured that was important to mention)


Then yeah I'd wait. Not for the 4gb cards. But the 6gb gk110 cards. 7680x1440 is no joke. Never understood triple monitor setups myself. Tried it out. Don't understand it. There are bezels in the way that ruin the immersion. Until they make a curved monitor, count me out.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Then yeah I'd wait. Not for the 4gb cards. But the 6gb gk110 cards. 7680x1440 is no joke. Never understood triple monitor setups myself. Tried it out. Don't understand it. There are bezels in the way that ruin the immersion. Until they make a curved monitor, count me out.


Get a CRDV Monitor instead. But don't get scared by the price.


----------



## Mumbles37

I got my Catleap finally, and here is my story:

Ordered on March 16th through Minarinshop.com, which I found on one of the earlier pages of these threads. I almost went with an ebay vendor, but they weren't willing to work with me on shipping (I live in Japan). I saved about $40, mostly in shipping costs. I was able to choose my own Korean vendor, Minarinshop made the purchase, the monitor was shipped to their local address in Korea, then they reinforced the packaging and forwarded it to me in Japan. Here's the one I ordered. However, I ordered with no speakers and they were sold out, so they upgraded me to a speaker version for free (thanks to Minarinshop for arranging that for me!).

Received on March 29. The process seemed long, but it was mostly because I ordered on a Friday and Minarinshop doesn't usually process orders on weekends. I probably could have saved 3-5 days by ordering on a weekday. The original choice being out of stock probably added a day or two as well.

My tempered glass +speakers monitor: B2! I would guess that these monitors are much hotter overseas right now than in Korea, so regular Korean retailers might possibly be sitting on a few B2s.

And thank God, because for the 5 minutes I used it at 60hz before taking it to 100hz was dreadful coming from my 120hz Acer







At 100hz, it is bliss!

The panel itself has one bright pixel near the middle of the screen which is mostly noticeable on black backgrounds. Watched an Indiana Jones movie and could only perceive it during darker screens. During gaming with fast movement it is not noticeable. There were 3 or 4 pieces of black dust under the glass so I removed the screen for a bezel and compressed aired-it out; problem solved.

All in all, another happy customer!


----------



## SmaShTr

Just got mine from dcsamsungmall. It took a whole TWO days free shipping via FedEx. Anyone who wants it fast should definitely go for this option. I inspected it really quick before I returned to work, and there doesn't seem to be any issues whatsoever with dead or stuck pixels. I'm gonna do myself a favor and not do a thorough inspection, as if I found one, I would probably stare at it all day. Forgot to check which version I got, but I guess it's the C version. I can't be THAT lucky.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Get a CRDV Monitor instead. But don't get scared by the price.


Great concept. They just need to up the resolution now. 2880x900 is lower res than our 1440p monitors. But seeing this gives me hope! Maybe we can get Yamakasi to custom build some for us? =D


----------



## alamone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mumbles37*
> 
> My tempered glass +speakers monitor: B2! I would guess that these monitors are much hotter overseas right now than in Korea, so regular Korean retailers might possibly be sitting on a few B2s.


I went ahead and put in a order request for the glass + speakers monitor, I assume this is the right model?
Crossing my fingers that they still have some B2s left! Thanks for the tip!


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dumpsterj*
> 
> man this resolution is kicking my dual 470's collective asses in bf3. not enough vram
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> SO I supposse I should wait for the 4gb version of the 680? I was about to order one with this monitor.... but I dont want to spend $500 on a GPU and find out I don't have enough VRAM to play comfortably at 1440p.
Click to expand...

thats what im doing , i used to hit almost 2gb @ 1980x1200 . with the catleap now im waiting for the 4gb. i wish i still had my 7970 to test with , but i sent it back before i couldnt anymore after i saw the performance in bf3 the gtx 680 had.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## dumpsterj

also fyi , i. have been gaming on my catleap all afternoon. i love it , the led ips is beautiful. i cant believe how much more pop the colors have compared to my previous lg tn panel which i thought was great. now its my secondary monitor lol.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

*PLEASE HELP!*

I need some info that I can add to the OP - if you have experience in either of the two below please *PM* me with your response (please do not post it in the thread).

*1. TAXES, VAT, OTHER CHARGES - I need info from Canadian, European, African, Australian, Asian, you name-ian, buyers and their experiences with customs and the fees associated with importing these wonders (No USA peeps need respond - free trade and all that!)*

*2. PS3/360 Owners on scaling, connecting, etc. on multi-monitors (all please respond.)*

Again, please shoot me a *PM* - not a post here! We have almost 2000 posts and it is getting extremely hard and time-consuming for me to manage.

Thanks for your help!

*EDIT:*

*Canada - DONE! Thanks to Shane1244 and kevinsbane*

*JAPAN - DONE! Thanks to mumbles 37*


----------



## y2kcamaross

Got my hooked up, it's gorgeous, one dead pixel in the upper left hand corner, impossible to notice unless you are on an all white screen and your face is writing 12 inches if the screen looking for it, if this thing could clock to 100+hz, it'd be about the best monitor ever

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Maybe we can get Yamakasi to custom build some for us? =D


I doubt the 100hz Catleap will happen for below 475$, even 500$. So I don't think they will produce these kind of CRDV anytime soon


----------



## SmaShTr

I did some further testing, and my monitor is pretty much perfect. No backlight bleeding, no dead pixels, nothing. The one thing I did notice is that mine does have the AG coating. I thought it was pretty rare, but I'm not sure. I kinda prefer it that way (I absolutely HATE seeing reflections), although from what I understand colors look far better without it. Still, I'm loving this thing. Thanks for all the feedback from everyone in this thread, I would not have purchased something like this from Korea without it.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I doubt the 100hz Catleap will happen for below 475$, even 500$. So I don't think they will produce these kind of CRDV anytime soon


I think it'll be more feasible with this tech because the current curved monitor is huuuuge!


----------



## iLLmAtiCiAn

Hmm thank you for the help so far, but I am having touble finding this switch but I am pretty sure that diagram does not belong to the Direct CU II 6950 because mine has no HDMI ports and just 2 DVI ports + 4 displayports.

Edit:

Nvm, it is the right picture just having trouble finding the switch


----------



## Mr Pixel

Anyone found a stand that will do portrait correctly? Wall-mount is not an option for me and most arms won't fit my desk (1.25" clearance to back support). Trying to find something under $100.

Both the 3M and the Ergotron neo-flex appear slightly too short.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> Anyone found a stand that will do portrait correctly? Wall-mount is not an option for me and most arms won't fit my desk (1.25" clearance to back support). Trying to find something under $100.
> Both the 3M and the Ergotron neo-flex appear slightly too short.


http://www.ergotron.com/Products/tabid/65/PRDID/242/language/en-CA/Default.aspx
http://www.ergotron.com/Products/tabid/65/PRDID/56/Default.aspx

Both of these guys are well suited to the monitor from what I can ascertain, although they're more expensive (no surprises there). The first one can be had for around $100 if I remember correctly.


----------



## iLLmAtiCiAn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iLLmAtiCiAn*
> 
> Hmm thank you for the help so far, but I am having touble finding this switch but I am pretty sure that diagram does not belong to the Direct CU II 6950 because mine has no HDMI ports and just 2 DVI ports + 4 displayports.
> Edit:
> Nvm, it is the right picture just having trouble finding the switch


Found it thanks guys


----------



## boonlar

This thread is becoming huge, can anyone tell me if it's worth ordering a catleap or wait for custom PCBs? It would be cool to have 100hz+. The PCBank monitors have lower response times than this one though.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> http://www.ergotron.com/Products/tabid/65/PRDID/242/language/en-CA/Default.aspx
> http://www.ergotron.com/Products/tabid/65/PRDID/56/Default.aspx
> Both of these guys are well suited to the monitor from what I can ascertain, although they're more expensive (no surprises there). The first one can be had for around $100 if I remember correctly.


Using the MX arm. It is ridiculously well designed.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boonlar*
> 
> This thread is becoming huge, can anyone tell me if it's worth ordering a catleap or wait for custom PCBs? It would be cool to have 100hz+. The PCBank monitors have lower response times than this one though.


I would say order one. Even at 65mhz, the clarity and color on these is outstanding. I'm getting a second one i like mine so much, and if we do ever get the pcb's to OC them, even better!


----------



## tenma

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *boonlar*
> 
> This thread is becoming huge, can anyone tell me if it's worth ordering a catleap or wait for custom PCBs? It would be cool to have 100hz+. The PCBank monitors have lower response times than this one though.


Do you need the monitor immediately? If so, buy it. If not, wait. Even if they don't get the 100 Hz electronics worked out, the price of the monitor has dropped $50 in the last month and several different models have appeared. If you figure you'll be using this monitor for 5+ years, then surely it's worth waiting another month to see how things shake out and to make sure you pick the best model.


----------



## darrenb123

does this monitor have usb ports?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> does this monitor have usb ports?


Ha ha ha! You're a funny guy.







This monitor doesn't even have an OSD or contrast controls; it is absolutely as barebones as you can get.

Good thing the monitor I upgraded from (now my secondary) *does* have USB ports, so I still have access to them on my desk.


----------



## Mygaffer

Well I got mine. It is a good unit, no dead or stuck pixels. Definitely some banding issues. Has a great response time although colors are not as good as my Dell UltraSharp. In fact my 3007wfp-HC appears to best it in image quality all around.

It will make a great secondary monitor once I buy a stand for it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumpsterj*
> 
> also fyi , i. have been gaming on my catleap all afternoon. i love it , the led ips is beautiful. i cant believe how much more pop the colors have compared to my previous lg tn panel which i thought was great. now its my secondary monitor lol.
> Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD


Exactly. There have been so many other threads where people who have never seen an S-IPS panel first hand would dismiss it as not that much better. But after going S-IPS I could never go back.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Ha ha ha! You're a funny guy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This monitor doesn't even have an OSD or contrast controls; it is absolutely as barebones as you can get.
> Good thing the monitor I upgraded from (now my secondary) *does* have USB ports, so I still have access to them on my desk.


Lol I was being serious too >_< I have another newb question then...how do you calibrate the monitor then? does it need to be?

I also got another question. I'm looking at the back of my video card box and it says "two dual link DVI-I connectors" but the specs on the Yamakasi Catleap product page say DVI-D. Does this mean it can't connect?


----------



## scatlm

It looks like a _Yamakasi Catleap Monitor Club_ (continued) thread will have to be opened.









I'm going to order mine on Monday, and just wait for the 680 4gb version to come out... I wont be able to do any gaming @ 1440p with a 5850.


----------



## gibsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer*
> 
> Well I got mine. It is a good unit, no dead or stuck pixels. Definitely some banding issues. Has a great response time although colors are not as good as my Dell UltraSharp. In fact my 3007wfp-HC appears to best it in image quality all around.
> 
> man, can you post me a picture comparison between your dell vs the catleap..i know its not appropriate for the OP, but at least can you pm me those picture??my friend wanna sell u3011 for $580...still decide whether to take the deal or go with the catleap..im leaning toward the quality of the picture..thanks


----------



## scatlm

They need to make a 30" 100+ HZ @ 1440p+ catleap.


----------



## cirthix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer*
> 
> Well I got mine. It is a good unit, no dead or stuck pixels. Definitely some banding issues. Has a great response time although colors are not as good as my Dell UltraSharp. In fact my 3007wfp-HC appears to best it in image quality all around.
> man, can you post me a picture comparison between your dell vs the catleap..i know its not appropriate for the OP, but at least can you pm me those picture??my friend wanna sell u3011 for $580...still decide whether to take the deal or go with the catleap..im leaning toward the quality of the picture..thanks
> 
> 
> 
> take that deal, it is very good
Click to expand...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Lol I was being serious too >_< I have another newb question then...how do you calibrate the monitor then? does it need to be?
> I also got another question. I'm looking at the back of my video card box and it says "two dual link DVI-I connectors" but the specs on the Yamakasi Catleap product page say DVI-D. Does this mean it can't connect?


yeah dvi-i is dvi-d + dvi-a combined.


----------



## Chobbit

What been likely hood of recieving monitors with no dead pixels so far? has it been a good percentage?

I'm think of getting one from 'green-sum' and I keep seeing on each version he sells about a Zero-Defect option but can't find any of these in the listings to buy. Can anyone point me in the direction of the Tempered Glass/No speakers with the Zero-Defect option?

Thanks


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> What been likely hood of recieving monitors with no dead pixels so far? has it been a good percentage?
> I'm think of getting one from 'green-sum' and I keep seeing on each version he sells about a Zero-Defect option but can't find any of these in the listings to buy. Can anyone point me in the direction of the Tempered Glass/No speakers with the Zero-Defect option?
> Thanks


i got mine from him and it has zero defects . It also got here ALOT faster than ebay estimated , ebay said april 10th to 23rd , i got it yesterday. I ordered it around the 19th i think if not later


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> What been likely hood of recieving monitors with no dead pixels so far? has it been a good percentage?
> I'm think of getting one from 'green-sum' and I keep seeing on each version he sells about a Zero-Defect option but can't find any of these in the listings to buy. Can anyone point me in the direction of the Tempered Glass/No speakers with the Zero-Defect option?
> Thanks


Hi Chobbit:

I ordered from Green Sum 6 days ago and it was a good experience. I wanted the tempered glass model with out speakers. I asked Green Sum if that was the model I had purchased.

Dear samuraixzodus,

Hi, samuraixzodus.

Since middle of March, we only have Glossy one.

Thanks.

- green-sum

Now I am not sure if the glossy model is completely different from the tempered glass or the glossy and tempered are one in the same.
I just received my glossy model without speakers and it is a complete dream. Words cant desribe the image and quality. I know you will enjoy


----------



## SkyPC

It seems that I have gotten a monitor with speakers, all tho I ordered with out. The monitor came with a audio vire and ofc audio plug, and also I see some, what it seems audio holes in the beack of the monitor. ( am to lazy to go trough my bad cable managing under my desk to conect the audio plug. )

Will check later.

But damn, this monitor is big and therefor when ever I open a site like google, with a huge white background my ayes get a Flash Bang, and it kinda makes my ayes tired quite fast. You guys calibrating ur catleaps for less aye strain?


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> It seems that I have gotten a monitor with speakers, all tho I ordered with out. The monitor came with a audio vire and ofc audio plug, and also I see some, what it seems audio holes in the beack of the monitor. ( am to lazy to go trough my bad cable managing under my desk to conect the audio plug. )
> Will check later.
> But damn, this monitor is big and therefor when ever I open a site like google, with a huge white background my ayes get a Flash Bang, and it kinda makes my ayes tired quite fast. You guys calibrating ur catleaps for less aye strain?


just turn the brightess down you will be fine


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> It seems that I have gotten a monitor with speakers, all tho I ordered with out. The monitor came with a audio vire and ofc audio plug, and also I see some, what it seems audio holes in the beack of the monitor. ( am to lazy to go trough my bad cable managing under my desk to conect the audio plug. )
> Will check later.
> But damn, this monitor is big and therefor when ever I open a site like google, with a huge white background my ayes get a Flash Bang, and it kinda makes my ayes tired quite fast. You guys calibrating ur catleaps for less aye strain?


If you follow the guide Toasty made in the OP (4th post I think in this thread), he explains how much brightness is increased/decreased per press of the button. 5-10 down should mellow it out for you.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Suggestions please...
I changed the stand go my monitor and now I have a black screen
My motherboard flashes red vga error. The monitor illuminates I just have no picture only a black screen. Thanks in advance.









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Xzyrus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Suggestions please...
> I changed the stand go my monitor and now I have a black screen
> My motherboard flashes red vga error. The monitor illuminates I just have no picture only a black screen. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Screws too long/tight in the back VESA mount?


----------



## samuraixzodus

I purchased the lx ergotron desk mount. I will try to loosen screws and post back. Thanks!

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## atmosfar

samuraixzodus, here's some info about what Xzyrus mentioned: =1225919&output=posts&action=disp]http://www.overclock.net/search.php?search=vesa+shorting&containingthread[]=1225919&output=posts&action=disp


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xzyrus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Suggestions please...
> I changed the stand go my monitor and now I have a black screen
> My motherboard flashes red vga error. The monitor illuminates I just have no picture only a black screen. Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Screws too long/tight in the back VESA mount?
Click to expand...

No luck I am going to take it apart and investigate.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## borandi

Set mine up today. Well pleased. It's going to be used as a monitor so I can review hardware at 2560x1440, not as a constant work machine (so it doesn't matter that it's 2ft above my eyeline!)










Looks like one dead pixel near the bottom. Have been able to get into BIOSes with Intel HD graphics, 5850s, 580s and will try 7970s later. Just hold down Del as the PC boots up


----------



## 4LC4PON3

where to buy one of these & how much are they in US dollars.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> where to buy one of these & how much are they in US dollars.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> where to buy one of these & how much are they in US dollars.
Click to expand...

lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> where to buy one of these & how much are they in US dollars.


eBay search catleap 27 monitor

sent from galaxy II


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*


HAHA, creators of the site implemented that Smiley expression for a reason.

But sir, the monitor is about 360$


----------



## 4LC4PON3

well i did not see any place to buy them or a price. Maybe I missed it on the front page so I was not sure. I did find them on ebay for around $360.00


----------



## borandi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> well i did not see any place to buy them or a price. Maybe I missed it on the front page so I was not sure. I did find them on ebay for around $360.00


You really think no-one would have mentioned it in almost 2000 posts?
Or one of the biggest threads ever on OCN? http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/


----------



## borandi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> well i did not see any place to buy them or a price. Maybe I missed it on the front page so I was not sure. I did find them on ebay for around $360.00


You really think no-one would have mentioned it in almost 2000 posts?
Or one of the recent threads? http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/


----------



## csm725

Hardly one of the biggest threads on OCN, but whatever.


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4LC4PON3*
> 
> I did find them on ebay for around $360.00


Really? That is quite a good deal.


----------



## borandi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *csm725*
> 
> Hardly one of the biggest threads on OCN, but whatever.


Excellent addition to the thread right there. Post edited.


----------



## Teiji

Bought mine from dcsamsungmall for $365 on the 3/26. Shipped on 3/27. Arrived on 3/29. Super fast shipping! Other notes: The seller marked it as a gift of $80, and I didn't pay any extra custom to Louisiana (US). (Also, I bought an Ergotron Neo Flex stand on eBay from a US seller on the same day, but it arrived 1 day later than the monitor shipped from South Korea. lol)

The monitor is awesome for watching pr0n!!!!!!

Ok, jokes aside. I got the non-tempered, non-speaker 2C version. No dead pixel using manual eye check. Default colors seem good, but I'll adjust the colors according to OP to see if it can be even better. Weirdly, my refresh rate is only 59Hz and when try to change it to 60Hz, it reverts back to 59Hz. I did some Google search and successfully set it to 60Hz. I won't be OCing it with my current sucky Geforce GT 230. But, I'll try to OC it when I build my new PC next month (probably won't get that high with 2C anyways).


----------



## SkyPC

Can you even get past 60 with a 2C model? Oo

I got Sapphire Radeon 6950, and a 2C catleap, any chances of going over 60hz?


----------



## erocker

65hz works fine for me.


----------



## bQvle

Since the Color Profiles doesn't work in full-screen directx games, try using Nvidia control panel instead.

1. Go to Nvidia Control Panel
2. Display > Adjust desktop color settings
3. Check: Use NVIDIA Settings

*All Channels:*
Brightness: 45%
Contrast: 35%
Gamma: 1

*Red:*
Brightness: 47%
Contrast: 40%
Gamma: 1

*Green:*
Brightness: 40%
Contrast: 27%
Gamma: 1

*Blue:*
Brightness: 50%
Contrast: 40%
Gamma: 1

Note: Always adjust "all channels" first, or it will mess up the other channels.

Digital vibrance: 48%
Hue: 0

*This is just what my eyes find natual, it would be perfect if someone with the right hardware would calibrate with these settings, and provide some more accurate settings!
*


----------



## SkyPC

I'm not gonna risk ocing it, don't want to burn it.


----------



## chcolatesnw

where can you buy one of these from? ebay? is the manufacturer trustworthy? I am planning to get something slick soon and this fits the shoe


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> samuraixzodus, here's some info about what Xzyrus mentioned: =1225919&output=posts&action=disp]http://www.overclock.net/search.php?search=vesa+shorting&containingthread[]=1225919&output=posts&action=disp


Thanks for help! It was the blue and white jumpers to the monitor. Some how they manage to come out. Here is a pic of my setup









Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## samuraixzodus

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## samuraixzodus

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## ae-?a

I actually read through almost every post in this thread in the first 105 pages or so before giving up for today =P

Man I actually ordered two of these before I realized the 100hz thing was just on some.

I am a avid gamer and I would love to have a 85Hz (or higher) panel. Honestly I don't thin it would matter much for my gaming much over 85 Hz.

I have been gaming off my Dell 3007-WFP (and later 3007-WFPHC) since it was actually a new model and I got it for $1600 (at the time it was a steal when it was going for 2000+).

I have always been a high resolution freak. I didn't go LCD until the dell 3007 WFP came out (The 30 inch apple was out before it with lots of issues and a bit out of my budget) because I ran a CRT @[email protected] (when all cards were only 350Mhz ramdac) and 63Hz when 400Mhz DAC cards came out.

I really liked having a larger (30 inch monitor) and I wasn't loosing out that much in the resolution department and not only that but it was far more sharp. I was finally happy. The one thing I did not like and missed on the from the CRT was the refresh rate. I am pretty competitive with other good players online on quakelive and the extra Hz would really help me out. I hate TN panels but more than that I simply could not drop to lower resolution to justify getting a 120hz pane even if I could stand a TN.

I have been waiting for even just a 75 Hz but 60+ Hz 2560x1440 (or higher) resolution panel FOREVER! I would easily have dropped $1000 on one of these. Then I find out this korean company has them for under $400, ***!

I am really sad that I got into the show late and really hope the OP is able to supply us with cards I selected the under $100 option in the thread subject line.

I would really like to play with one of the 100Hz models because unlike almost everyone else I have seen on here I run linux. Linux IMHO is *MUCH* better when it comes to running custom monitors like this.

At work I run a tripple monitor setup that is an IBM T221 9503-DGP, Dell 3007-WFP and a Dell 2007-FP. My dad and sister also have a similar monitor (Viewsonic VP2290b) and these are probably some of the most wacky, hard to configure monitors you will ever come by. Sometimes its a nightmare when you upgrade the drivers and all the custom modes are lost. I love linux with this monitor as its all just modelines in my xorg.conf and stays the same with driver updates and nothing can **** it up =)

I have been doing custom modelines on *nix since my CRT days (early 2001/2002) so I have lots of experience with tweaking timings and would love to see what this monitor is capable of on nvidia hardware. The linux drivers actually allow you to do all sorts of over-rides to go beyond the specs of things, example:

Code:



Code:


    "AllowNon60HzDFPModes": some lower quality TMDS encoders are only rated to drive DFPs at 60Hz; the driver will determine when only 60Hz DFP modes are allowed. This argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoMaxPClkCheck": each mode has a pixel clock; this pixel clock is validated against the maximum pixel clock of the hardware (for a DFP, this is the maximum pixel clock of the TMDS encoder, for a CRT, this is the maximum pixel clock of the DAC). This argument disables the maximum pixel clock checking stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoEdidMaxPClkCheck": a display device's EDID can specify the maximum pixel clock that the display device supports; a mode's pixel clock is validated against this pixel clock maximum. This argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "AllowInterlacedModes": interlaced modes are not supported on all NVIDIA GPUs; the driver will discard interlaced modes on GPUs where interlaced modes are not supported; this argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoMaxSizeCheck": each NVIDIA GPU has a maximum resolution that it can drive; this argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoHorizSyncCheck": a mode's horizontal sync is validated against the range of valid horizontal sync values; this argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoVertRefreshCheck": a mode's vertical refresh rate is validated against the range of valid vertical refresh rate values; this argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoWidthAlignmentCheck": the alignment of a mode's visible width is validated against the capabilities of the GPU; normally, a mode's visible width must be a multiple of 8. This argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoDFPNativeResolutionCheck": when validating for a DFP, a mode's size is validated against the native resolution of the DFP; this argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoVirtualSizeCheck": if the X configuration file requests a specific virtual screen size, a mode cannot be larger than that virtual size; this argument disables this stage of the mode validation pipeline.

    "NoVesaModes": when constructing the mode pool for a display device, the X driver uses a built-in list of VESA modes as one of the mode sources; this argument disables use of these built-in VESA modes.

    "NoEdidModes": when constructing the mode pool for a display device, the X driver uses any modes listed in the display device's EDID as one of the mode sources; this argument disables use of EDID-specified modes.

    "NoXServerModes": when constructing the mode pool for a display device, the X driver uses the built-in modes provided by the core XFree86/Xorg X server as one of the mode sources; this argument disables use of these modes. Note that this argument does not disable custom ModeLines specified in the X config file; see the "NoCustomModes" argument for that.

    "NoCustomModes": when constructing the mode pool for a display device, the X driver uses custom ModeLines specified in the X config file (through the "Mode" or "ModeLine" entries in the Monitor Section) as one of the mode sources; this argument disables use of these modes.

    "NoPredefinedModes": when constructing the mode pool for a display device, the X driver uses additional modes predefined by the NVIDIA X driver; this argument disables use of these modes.

    "NoUserModes": additional modes can be added to the mode pool dynamically, using the NV-CONTROL X extension; this argument prohibits user-specified modes via the NV-CONTROL X extension.

    "NoExtendedGpuCapabilitiesCheck": allow mode timings that may exceed the GPU's extended capability checks.

    "ObeyEdidContradictions": an EDID may contradict itself by listing a mode as supported, but the mode may exceed an EDID-specified valid frequency range (HorizSync, VertRefresh, or maximum pixel clock). Normally, the NVIDIA X driver prints a warning in this scenario, but does not invalidate an EDID-specified mode just because it exceeds an EDID-specified valid frequency range. However, the "ObeyEdidContradictions" argument instructs the NVIDIA X driver to invalidate these modes.

    "NoTotalSizeCheck": allow modes in which the invididual visible or sync pulse timings exceed the total raster size.

    "DoubleScanPriority": on GPUs older than G80, doublescan modes are sorted before non-doublescan modes of the same resolution for purposes of modepool sorting; but on G80 and later GPUs, doublescan modes are sorted after non-doublescan modes of the same resolution. This token inverts that priority (i.e., doublescan modes will be sorted after on pre-G80 GPUs, and sorted before on G80 and later GPUs).

    "NoDualLinkDVICheck": for mode timings used on dual link DVI DFPs, the driver must perform additional checks to ensure that the correct pixels are sent on the correct link. For some of these checks, the driver will invalidate the mode timings; for other checks, the driver will implicitly modify the mode timings to meet the GPU's dual link DVI requirements. This token disables this dual link DVI checking.

Basically with linux you can say **** you specs, do what I say and see if it works =)

The T221 I run is 3840x2400 @ 48Hz. I actually am running it with a special adapter that allows you to run it with 2x dual link DVI instead of 4x single-link DVI. Definitely not your everyday configuration for a monitor =)

I find it funny people saying how small crap is on a 2560x1440 monitor @ 27 inches with windows 96 DPI setting. I run 3840x2400 @ 22.2 inch with X set at 75 DPI. I have no problems reading the monitor and I can even see the pixels on that if I am <1 foot away (no problem reading from my normal distance of about 2 feet).

If a solution isn't found maybe one of you guys who doesn't need the extra Hz can sell me their 2B version as I would really appreciate the higher Hz.

All you guys who got in on this early and got the 100Hz models are lucky SOB's in my eye's.

Oh yeah and I don't know if people have mentioned this before but the Crossover lists max veritcal refresh/horizontal and people were thinking it can do 75 Hz cause max vertical was 75. This is pretty common on LCD's that will accept 75Hz (or other >60Hz modes) but not actually display them. Considering the Horizontal range of 81Khz was not high enough to be [email protected] I find it very unlikely this display will support >60Hz unless its like the catleap and then the specs are kind of meaningless anyway right?


----------



## wsoul1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teiji*
> 
> Bought mine from dcsamsungmall for $365 on the 3/26. Shipped on 3/27. Arrived on 3/29. Super fast shipping! Other notes: The seller marked it as a gift of $80, and I didn't pay any extra custom to Louisiana (US). (Also, I bought an Ergotron Neo Flex stand on eBay from a US seller on the same day, but it arrived 1 day later than the monitor shipped from South Korea. lol)
> The monitor is awesome for watching pr0n!!!!!!
> Ok, jokes aside. I got the non-tempered, non-speaker 2C version. No dead pixel using manual eye check. Default colors seem good, but I'll adjust the colors according to OP to see if it can be even better. Weirdly, my refresh rate is only 59Hz and when try to change it to 60Hz, it reverts back to 59Hz. I did some Google search and successfully set it to 60Hz. I won't be OCing it with my current sucky Geforce GT 230. But, I'll try to OC it when I build my new PC next month (probably won't get that high with 2C anyways).


Thats good because the USA does not have custom charges for goods from S. Korea...







Enjoy your monitor.


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Hi Chobbit:
> I ordered from Green Sum 6 days ago and it was a good experience. I wanted the tempered glass model with out speakers. I asked Green Sum if that was the model I had purchased.
> Dear samuraixzodus,
> Hi, samuraixzodus.
> Since middle of March, we only have Glossy one.
> Thanks.
> - green-sum
> Now I am not sure if the glossy model is completely different from the tempered glass or the glossy and tempered are one in the same.
> I just received my glossy model without speakers and it is a complete dream. Words cant desribe the image and quality. I know you will enjoy


Glossy One, does he mean the frame used to be matte like but now its only glossy or the actual glass itself?

I really need one of these in my life although I have too wait a week to come back from a holiday to order one or do you recon it takes longer than 10 days (including weekends) to arrive in the UK? if so I might order it now.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> Glossy One, does he mean the frame used to be matte like but now its only glossy or the actual glass itself?
> I really need one of these in my life although I have too wait a week to come back from a holiday to order one or do you recon it takes longer than 10 days (including weekends) to arrive in the UK? if so I might order it now.


Well the frame is glossy but the screen seems like glass to me. I would have to bet not seeing the other monitors that mine is glass. I posted some pictures a couple postings above. Hope this helps!


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Well the frame is glossy but the screen seems like glass to me. I would have to bet not seeing the other monitors that mine is glass. I posted some pictures a couple postings above. Hope this helps!


Is it very reflective and off putting? I might just get the non glass version if it's very reflective & glarry


----------



## samuraixzodus

It has a glare from the sides but head on it is perfect. I live in the northeast USA to give you an idea of shipping.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## llamaegg

Does anyone know if anyone sells the guaranteed overclocked 2B's, or is it basically hit or miss at this point?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

*PLEASE HELP!*

I need some info that I can add to the OP - if you have experience in either of the two below please *PM* me with your response (please do not post it in the thread).

*1. TAXES, VAT, OTHER CHARGES - I need info from Canadian, European, African, Australian, Asian, you name-ian, buyers and their experiences with customs and the fees associated with importing these wonders (No USA peeps need respond - free trade and all that!)*

*2. PS3/360 Owners on scaling, connecting, etc. on multi-monitors (all please respond.)*

Again, please shoot me a *PM* - not a post here! We have almost 2000 posts and it is getting extremely hard and time-consuming for me to manage.

Thanks for your help!

*EDIT:*

*Canada - DONE! Thanks to Shane1244 and kevinsbane*

*Japan - DONE! Thanks to mumbles 37*

*Aus/NZ - DONE! Thanks to evangelionstar*

*Estonia - DONE! Thanks to skypc*

*France - DONE! Thanks to charlesk*

*Netherlands - DONE! Thanks to djankie*

*Sweden - DONE! Thanks to slaktfarfar*


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I'm not gonna risk ocing it, don't want to burn it.


if you are not going to oc it, sell your pcb. im sure anyone would pay you $100 to swap your B for their C. =D


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Cool story bro.


lol. im not a big fan of the "i am better than you linux rawr" either but that was a little mean.







besides i think we've gathered enough information on the monitors to not be operating system limited at all.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> if you are not going to oc it, sell your pcb. im sure anyone would pay you $100 to swap your B for their C. =D


I would!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

OP updated/re-organized. Please read it before posting questions in the thread. If you think something should be added shoot me a PM rather than posting here. Woke up (with a hangover) to 70+ posts since last night! DAMN!

Cheers!


----------



## illli

every time i see the word gerber i think of baby food


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Since the Color Profiles doesn't work in full-screen directx games, try using Nvidia control panel instead.
> 1. Go to Nvidia Control Panel
> 2. Display > Adjust desktop color settings
> 3. Check: Use NVIDIA Settings
> *All Channels:*
> Brightness: 45%
> Contrast: 35%
> Gamma: 1
> *Red:*
> Brightness: 47%
> Contrast: 40%
> Gamma: 1
> *Green:*
> Brightness: 40%
> Contrast: 27%
> Gamma: 1
> *Blue:*
> Brightness: 50%
> Contrast: 40%
> Gamma: 1
> Note: Always adjust "all channels" first, or it will mess up the other channels.
> Digital vibrance: 48%
> Hue: 0
> *This is just what my eyes find natual, it would be perfect if someone with the right hardware would calibrate with these settings, and provide some more accurate settings!
> *


Okay, i just found out that the only settings that works ingame, is the Hue and Digital vibrance! game ignores color settings. so we still get the green tint!

Can someone figure out how we can calibrate the colors, so they work ingame aswell?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Okay, i just found out that the only settings that works ingame, is the Hue and Digital vibrance! game ignores color settings. so we still get the green tint!
> Can someone figure out how we can calibrate the colors, so they work ingame aswell?


Already posted in the other thread.


----------



## Otbreaker

This issue can't be posted enough most people don't realize this and probably that's way Graphic Card manufacturers woun't fix or add an option for this for Games like thay add an option for video playback.


----------



## DarkSimulant

Has anyone had any luck fixing their stuck pixels? I have tried running some pixel fixing programs and "massaging" but no luck so far.


----------



## Otbreaker

For this Monitor you need to do an Asian Massage.


----------



## 101589dpm

I just received a Q270SE tempered glass (C version), and am having great difficulty getting it to work. Right now the only thing that happens is the backlight blinks on and off, and the status light alternatively blinks red and green. The screen is completely blank. I've tried hooking up a MacBook Air and iMac to it through a Mini DisplayPort adapter (the official Apple one). Also tried an HP laptop and my cable box through HDMI cable and DVI adapter. I've tried both the cable that came in the box and another DVI cable I have (it is a dual link cable). I see in the beginning that it could be loose wiring on the inside but I'm a bit nervous about taking it apart…


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llamaegg*
> 
> Does anyone know if anyone sells the guaranteed overclocked 2B's, or is it basically hit or miss at this point?


A lot more "miss" than "hit" currently, I'd say. If you were ordering now, chances are quite slim to get an overclockable monitor. Your options are to wait and hope that the other thread gunning for the manufacturer to restart production of the 2B-style displays pulls through, or to buy a unit now and wait/hope for Scribby to get the boards reproduced to upgrade the later versions back to the overclockable ones.


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> if you are not going to oc it, sell your pcb. im sure anyone would pay you $100 to swap your B for their C. =D


I got 2C version brah


----------



## y2kcamaross

Only thing that i don't like about the monitor is the jerkyness using the mouse in fps's, so used to the silky smooth movement @120hz that it's hard to adjust

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> I just received a Q270SE tempered glass (C version), and am having great difficulty getting it to work. Right now the only thing that happens is the backlight blinks on and off, and the status light alternatively blinks red and green. The screen is completely blank. I've tried hooking up a MacBook Air and iMac to it through a Mini DisplayPort adapter (the official Apple one). Also tried an HP laptop and my cable box through HDMI cable and DVI adapter. I've tried both the cable that came in the box and another DVI cable I have (it is a dual link cable). I see in the beginning that it could be loose wiring on the inside but I'm a bit nervous about taking it apart&#8230;


I had a issue like this. I took my monitor apart to change the stand. My issue was a loose connection. The blue and white jumpers from the board yo the monitor came out of socket. It was the connection underneath the foil tape. My symptom was a black illuminated screen. Hope this helps.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## samuraixzodus

I have also heard of people using a multi-meter yo verify power from the transformer brick.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## llamaegg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> A lot more "miss" than "hit" currently, I'd say. If you were ordering now, chances are quite slim to get an overclockable monitor. Your options are to wait and hope that the other thread gunning for the manufacturer to restart production of the 2B-style displays pulls through, or to buy a unit now and wait/hope for Scribby to get the boards reproduced to upgrade the later versions back to the overclockable ones.


Ah, I was afraid of that. Looking to replace my monitor with something a bit more beefy for gaming and the Catleap is looking like an amazing choice. I might cave in anyway and hope for the best. Thanks though for the heads up.


----------



## sfsilicon

*Catleap Stand Information - Part 1 of 2* (click here for Part 2)

I'm collecting the information on stands from the club postings. If you have additions or questions please PM me. Since this information can get old quickly, you can use the "Search this thread" feature on each page (right above the poll) to look for "Stand" or "mount"

_Update 4/22/12: Split info into 2 post & reformatting, added Crezzlin triple stand & portrait issues._

*If this post was helpful for you, please post your own stand pictures when you get a new stand. TY!*

---

The stock stand has been described as flimsy, wobbly and a cheap design compared to better known DELL or HP monitors. Some owners have mentioned the stand tilting to the right. The rotating base is a nice feature. The stand does not allow tilting into portrait mode. Several owner like me ended up replacing the stand with a third party one. The monitor's silver arch needs to be removed (see OP for instructions) to expose the vesa mounting screws (be aware of the vesa shorting issue). You'll need a Vesa 75mm mount that supports 10kg (better 15kg w/ 27" monitor support).



Spoiler: Stand Quality & Videos



*Stand Quality & Videos*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> *Is the monitor stand of the Catleap really that bad ?*
> The crossover seems to have better stand but its 30$ more expensive
> 
> 
> 
> It's pretty bad. Then again, my comparison is with the stand on my U2312hm, which is excellent, and the monitor arm I've got the Catleap hooked up to right now, an Ergotron MX, which is a monster. It just... feels flimsy.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Superhuman*
> For those wondering how sturdy the Catleap stand is, it doesn't look all that bad judging from this video:


Wobbling Stand Videos














Spoiler: Stand Tilting



*Stand Tilting*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sbuck333*
> I have read about several cases of the stand/monitor tilting to the right, are most Catleaps straight or do most people have a tilt? i was just wondering because personally a wall mount or stand would not be an (easy) option.. I am torn between the two different brands plus the possibility of Crossover later this week :/
> 
> 
> 
> Mine had the tilt mentioned and the stand, while it appeared online to be more robust than the Achieva, was not so great (although the Achieva stand is crap as well). However, the stand wasn't horrible just not as sturdy as I am used to coming from having all my monitors mounted on a multi-monitor stand.
> 
> The Crossovers look promising, but it will all depend on the model that the sellers offer. I think we will see Crossovers that are exactly like the Catleap and Achieva. The Crossovers with the aluminum trim, solid mounted stand, and white backs appear to be the high-end versions, but of course I could be totally wrong!
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tflan*
> what is a crossover?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Another model that uses the same panel, just with a different bezel. Some of the Crossover models have black front bezels with white backs and what appear to be more robust stands (better mounts/more flexibility in the stand - tilt, swivel, raise/lower). We will see what gets offered.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> Have all the Catleaps been leaning? I thought it was one, now maybe two people that had leaning stands? From the first guy that posted pics in the other thread, it looked as if the one screw was longer (slightly) than the other. A dremel would make quick work of fixing that. So to the other Catleap owners, does yours lean at all?
> 
> 
> 
> Mine leaned and I would imagine all would have the lean based on how they stand is actually mounted to the panel (see my deconstruction of the stand for my wall mount solution). My second Catleap was an attempted delivery today at my office, but I plan on tearing it apart first thing to wall mount it (well I guess I will throw the stand on there to see if this one leans as well now that I think about it.) Then I will post some pics of the final setup.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *tinklepee*
> The problem is the stand doesn't fit flush with the base. I tried to get it flush and it ended up cracking.... it's a bad design. Time to find another mount!
> PS. I have four books and a usb thumb driver keeping it level... lol
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I didn't have a flush mount issue between the stand arm and the base - mine was actually perfect. I think the problem lies in that the screen is so big (awesomeness) and the mounting point inside the panel is in the lower third of the panel and rather small. To support this panel properly you need a mount at the VESA mount locations for it to be solid - i.e., mid-point on the panel and much wider/thicker. Having the stock stand mount so far down and using a plastic to plastic connection point for the clear stand base allows this big boy plenty of opportunity to wobble - and it definitely does.
Click to expand...







Spoiler: Vesa shorting



*Vesa shorting*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *votum*
> I have an issue you guys need to know of!
> The vesa holes in the back of the catleap are shallow. If you screw in a vesa mount all the way and then try to move the monitor it will short. Fortunately I shorted mine about 4 times trying to figure out what was going on and it survived
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Component quality must be good, but I recommend using washers for your vesa mounts
> 
> 
> 
> This is an issue for sure. Just make sure you are not going more that a 1/2" in or so and you will be fine. The screws for my mounts sit flush with the nut on the back of the monitor shell so I was golden. Good tip!
Click to expand...







Spoiler: Plywood mod



*Plywood mod*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ughnook*
> Just an idea.
> Very cheap Catleap Plywood mod.
> 
> Attach a piece of plywood to the VESA mount. Detach the stem with goes into the monitor and re-attach it to the bottom of the plywood. Will this be enough to stabilize the monitor?








Spoiler: Portrait mounting issues



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> Got my monitors today, all I can say is the picture quality looks better than my Hazro 30" and very little screen glare unlike the Hazro.. I've checked them all for dead pixels etc but can't find any faults.
> Going to try de-bezel them this weekend and use in portrait mode..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to build a custom stand for 3 in portrait mode for a friend, but Houston we have a slight problem. The panels are super slim and the mounting points would make these real tight to each other, EXCEPT, there is the 1/2" or so LED bottom on these screens so while 2 would be nice and tight, the third would have an awkward distance if you didn't overlap it.
> 
> From what I can tell by placing his three up in my little jig I made there is no way to solve this issue so he is going with a different setup. He didn't like how the third would overlap and kill the smoothness of the screens in the arc. Of course I told him we could increase the gaps, but he loved them so close that having the larger gap killed it. Fine by me - less work!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hi yeah I noticed this before I got them, I just hope when I remove the bezel it will be the same size on all four corners.. If no back to landscape..
> I will post pictures when done.
> 
> ---
> 
> i will do, im going to try this on Friday so will put some pics on, i did it with my HannsG monitors but the TN panels just go dark when viewing on different angles..
> 
> 
> ---
> 
> Sorry if this makes anyone jell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to be done..
> 
> worksperfect, much better than my prev Hazro 30" eyefinity setup..
Click to expand...







Spoiler: Alternate Stands



Click here to for Part 2 of the Catleap Stand Information.


----------



## 101589dpm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> I had a issue like this. I took my monitor apart to change the stand. My issue was a loose connection. The blue and white jumpers from the board yo the monitor came out of socket. It was the connection underneath the foil tape. My symptom was a black illuminated screen. Hope this helps.
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I opened it up to check things out... am I correct that there are supposed to be three things connecting the panel to the main board (forgive my lack of technical terms)? Two blue/white to the panel and then one other with the clip type connection? (Based on this teardown). Because all I've got is one blue/white from the board to the panel and the other white one.... there's nothing coming out of the "socket" where the DVI input is. I've included a photo below.

Mine is the tempered glass, single DVI input, no audio version (Q270SE).


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> I opened it up to check things out... am I correct that there are supposed to be three things connecting the panel to the main board (forgive my lack of technical terms)? Two blue/white to the panel and then one other with the clip type connection? (Based on this teardown). Because all I've got is one blue/white from the board to the panel and the other white one.... there's nothing coming out of the "socket" where the DVI input is. I've included a photo below.
> Mine is the tempered glass, single DVI input, no audio version (Q270SE).


Some have the PCBs with two connections, and the cables to make them, I believe the ones capable of OC (2B models), which the teardown you're going by is from.

Mine was like yours I believe, a 2c model?


----------



## 101589dpm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Some have the PCBs with two connections, and the cables to make them, I believe the ones capable of OC (2B models), which the teardown you're going by is from.
> Mine was like yours I believe, a 2c model?


Yep, it's the 2C version. Cabling inside is correct? I'll reseat them and test it out again. Wanted to make sure everything was right before I put it all back together


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> Yep, it's the 2C version. Cabling inside is correct? I'll reseat them and test it out again. Wanted to make sure everything was right before I put it all back together


Had you powered it on before disassembly? AFAIK, that's how mine was, but can't remember exact images of PCB for actual connections available.


----------



## 101589dpm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Had you powered it on before disassembly? AFAIK, that's how mine was, but can't remember exact images of PCB for actual connections available.


Yeah, all I was getting is a blank screen and the backlight was blinking on and off kind of intermittently.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Had you powered it on before disassembly? AFAIK, that's how mine was, but can't remember exact images of PCB for actual connections available.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, all I was getting is a blank screen and the backlight was blinking on and off kind of intermittently.
Click to expand...

Any luck 101589dpm?
Their is a solutions list to black screens on the first page of the forum. Best of luck

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## 101589dpm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Any luck 101589dpm?
> Their is a solutions list to black screens on the first page of the forum. Best of luck
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Nope, no luck yet. I've reseated all the cables inside and tested the power brick (putting out 24.3V). One curious thing is that the board on the panel might be the B version... I don't know if that is possible, but it appears to have two connection slots on it like the pictures of the other version. But the capacitor (?) has the italicized 220 like the C version (going by this photo). I don't know if that possibly has something to do with it. I'm going to try it with a different source once I can get my hands on something, but after that I'm stumped.

Edit: The symptoms are the same... the backlight is just flashing on and off intermittently. No image whatsoever.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> I opened it up to check things out... am I correct that there are supposed to be three things connecting the panel to the main board (forgive my lack of technical terms)? Two blue/white to the panel and then one other with the clip type connection? (Based on this teardown). Because all I've got is one blue/white from the board to the panel and the other white one.... there's nothing coming out of the "socket" where the DVI input is. I've included a photo below.
> Mine is the tempered glass, single DVI input, no audio version (Q270SE).


That is the correct wiring for 2C models. The panel PCB is fed by the blue/white/black wires on the right. The all black wires in the middle are to the front OSD (brightness, etc.). The bottom white feed the LED.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> Nope, no luck yet. I've reseated all the cables inside and tested the power brick (putting out 24.3V). One curious thing is that the board on the panel might be the B version... I don't know if that is possible, but it appears to have two connection slots on it like the pictures of the other version. But the capacitor (?) has the italicized 220 like the C version (going by this photo). I don't know if that possibly has something to do with it. I'm going to try it with a different source once I can get my hands on something, but after that I'm stumped.
> Edit: The symptoms are the same... the backlight is just flashing on and off intermittently. No image whatsoever.


Please take a photo of your panel PCB and an up close of the P/N (on the left-hand side of the that panel). That will tell us if it is in fact a 2B panel. If it is your panel will not work since the DVI PCB will not be outputting what the Panel PCB needs to operate (at least with out some sort of rewire we haven't tried yet.


----------



## esaase

Are you sure you have feeded the monitor with 2560x1440? I tried with two laptops without success. They had dual link dvis but no correct res...


----------



## 101589dpm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Please take a photo of your panel PCB and an up close of the P/N (on the left-hand side of the that panel). That will tell us if it is in fact a 2B panel. If it is your panel will not work since the DVI PCB will not be outputting what the Panel PCB needs to operate (at least with out some sort of rewire we haven't tried yet.


Here's the panel board. I guess it is the 2C, but there's a connection there that doesn't appear to be in the comparison photo.


----------



## Talfrey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esaase*
> 
> Are you sure you have feeded the monitor with 2560x1440? I tried with two laptops without success. They had dual link dvis but no correct res...


Are you 100% they were DVI-D and not just DVI?


----------



## Teiji

How do you guys clean the screen of the monitor (non-tempered)? I use a lint-free cloth and dampen it with water a little bit. When I try to clean it, it made it worse and left smudges that can be seen when the monitor is off.

Edit: I added a bit more water and clean it again. Then immediately go over it with another dry lint-free cloth. That seems better than before (in removing smudges).


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> Here's the panel board. I guess it is the 2C, but there's a connection there that doesn't appear to be in the comparison photo.


Well it isn't a 2B PCB, but a whole new one I haven't seen before. Just makes me more convinced these guys are mixing and matching boards and parts to get the panels up and running. Not sure what that connection is for - you should be good with the standard plug ins (unless that panel PCB does require something at that connector of course.)


----------



## Aquineas

Wow, I've just spent the last several hours reading this thread. Many, many thanks to those who have laid the groundwork on this. This is my first post so I'm sure I can't post links, but I ordered two Catleap Q270 SEs from samsung_korea for 358.60 each. I ordered them on Thursday night Texas time, and they were shipped by the time I got up the next morning. According to FedEx, they've cleared "international shipment release" in Memphis, and are scheduled to be here Tuesday morning. I will post the details on the model I get and try and oc it as well, but I will already be very busy attaching the dual monitor stand I bought:

(search "deluxe dual lcd monitor stand" on ebay if my link doesn't work)

My question is regarding my 7970CF setup. Is anyone else running 7970CF with dual monitors? Since the 7970 only comes with one DVI port, it's possible that I will have to buy the active DP-DVI connector (well technically, the active Mini-DP-DVI connector), but this would/could be avoided if I could plug the other monitor into the other 7970 DVI port. I guess that, in a rather long-winded way, is my question.

Edit:
Just in case, and for anyone's who's interested, I found an active adapter for about $55.00.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> Wow, I've just spent the last several hours reading this thread. Many, many thanks to those who have laid the groundwork on this. This is my first post so I'm sure I can't post links, but I ordered two Catleap Q270 SEs from samsung_korea for 358.60 each. I ordered them on Thursday night Texas time, and they were shipped by the time I got up the next morning. According to FedEx, they've cleared "international shipment release" in Memphis, and are scheduled to be here Tuesday morning. I will post the details on the model I get and try and oc it as well, but I will already be very busy attaching the dual monitor stand I bought:
> (search "deluxe dual lcd monitor stand" on ebay if my link doesn't work)


Please post some pictures when you have it all assembled so I can add this to the stand information I am collecting. As far as I can tell you'll be the first one using a dual stand.


----------



## esaase

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talfrey*
> 
> Are you 100% they were DVI-D and not just DVI?


Connector wise, yes. And even dual link


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *101589dpm*
> 
> Here's the panel board. I guess it is the 2C, but there's a connection there that doesn't appear to be in the comparison photo.


Thats what my pcb looked like. Nothing connects to that connector and mine worked fine after i took the stand off.


----------



## Bacchus451

Hey,

My catleap was amazing until today when I came back to it apparently receiving no power at all. Just a black screen and no light on the monitor at all.

Really getting worried. Any ideas?


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacchus451*
> 
> Hey,
> My catleap was amazing until today when I came back to it apparently receiving no power at all. Just a black screen and no light on the monitor at all.
> Really getting worried. Any ideas?


There have been many reports of the unreliability of the supplied power-supplies. Could that be it?


----------



## Bacchus451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> There have been many reports of the unreliability of the supplied power-supplies. Could that be it?


Due to the proprietary end that goes in to the monitor is there something I can do?


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacchus451*
> 
> Due to the proprietary end that goes in to the monitor is there something I can do?


In this post. you can find a link to an eBay replacement AC adapter. That being said, you might also try to contact the manufacturer the supplier to inquire about it being under warranty. Technically it probably is, but the cost of shipping will probably approach the cost of a power supply.


----------



## gibsy

Hey, has someone tried out surround/eyefinity with these monitors?How is that feeling? how much vram it suffers??


----------



## Bacchus451

Attention Everyone!!!

I came back to my monitor today to find it completely without power and I suspected the AC adapter. I was right -and- I fixed it and therefore didn't need to spent money on a replacement adapter.

To begin with I tore apart the monitor to make sure all of the connections were OK, which they were.

Second (I guess it made sense to make this the first step) I grabbed a multimeter and checked to make sure there was the right amount of voltage throughout the adapter. It was fine going in to the brick, and after removing the housing I found that it was fine coming out too so therefore it had to be a problem with the wire from the brick to the monitor.

So I stripped the wire before the big plastic thing, which is a resistor I think, and I still had a connection and the right readings. I stripped the wire after the resistor and had the correct readings which therefore only left the plug.

There were no readings all the way to the plug at all so I ended up stripping the rubber housing around the plug layer by layer until it was all exposed to find... that the solder they used to hook the wires to the metal rods had fallen off.

Some resoldering and electrical taping later and my monitor is working again.

If anyone needs any more details, let me know, I can assist hopefully


----------



## alricking

Anyone know how to manually scale the monitor because when you try to put game to lower resoulation than 2560x1440, the monitor does not scale to cover the whole screen.


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bacchus451*
> 
> There were no readings all the way to the plug at all so I ended up stripping the rubber housing around the plug layer by layer until it was all exposed to find... that the solder they used to hook the wires to the metal rods had fallen off.


That makes me wonder if users getting low power readings are having the issue due to shoddy PSU soldering points.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Anyone know how to manually scale the monitor because when you try to put game to lower resoulation than 2560x1440, the monitor does not scale to cover the whole screen.


Your video card should have an option in its control panel to scale. IIRC, people have indicated scaling looks bad unless you set it to scale it to 1280x720 (as that is a 4:1 ratio).


----------



## omekone

Well I took my monitor apart and installed the desk mount VESA from monoprice. This mount is huge! I was worried that it would not support a 27" but it does fine. Long as you get the bolts nice and tight its great. 100% better than the stock plastic crap mount.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omekone*
> 
> Well I took my monitor apart and installed the desk mount VESA from monoprice. This mount is huge! I was worried that it would not support a 27" but it does fine. Long as you get the bolts nice and tight its great. 100% better than the stock plastic crap mount.


Which monoprice stand are you using? Could you please post the link.


----------



## omekone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Which monoprice stand are you using? Could you please post the link.


http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

21$ its a great deal.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omekone*
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 21$ its a great deal.


TY for sharing your pics, the stand looks pretty good. Much more solid than the pictures on their website indicate.

I bought this one - http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=2. The monoprice stands are pretty good for the price. The only thing missing on mine is the ability to rotate into portrait mode.


----------



## alricking

hmm... i just managed to seqeeze 2hz more out of my gtx 9300 on Catleap.. now 99hz..it feels "little" more smoother ^.^


----------



## pitty

I have a 5870 eyefinity 6 edition, it has 6 mini display ports only.

on the AMD website it says

◦Integrated dual-link DVI output with HDCP
•Max resolution: 2560x1600

http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/ati-radeon-hd-5000/hd-5870-eyefinity-6-edition/pages/overview.aspx#2

Do i still need to buy an active mini dp to D-DVI adapter ?


----------



## psycheangel

so guys, anyone here can calibrate color for gaming using nvidia card?
or only amd can do that?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pitty*
> 
> I have a 5870 eyefinity 6 edition, it has 6 mini display ports only.
> on the AMD website it says
> ◦Integrated dual-link DVI output with HDCP
> •Max resolution: 2560x1600
> http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/ati-radeon-hd-5000/hd-5870-eyefinity-6-edition/pages/overview.aspx#2
> Do i still need to buy an active mini dp to D-DVI adapter ?


Well, despite what it says I'm unsure how you'd plan to physically hook up a dual-link DVI output to a mini-DP; the port simply has insufficient pins to drive a dual-link signal. My only thought is that it'd somehow share two miniDP ports, but I've never heard of such a device/adapter, so I suspect you'll need to buy an active converter.


----------



## bQvle

*Fix for Nvidia Color Calibration -> Ingame Full-screen*

All steam games, that uses the steam overlay, ignores callibration. But i found that if i launched Steam.exe with Color Cloutch, ALL steam games keeps the desktop calibration! Great!
This is my Batch for starting steam, i have put it in my StartUp folder, so it launches when my computer turns on!

Steam.bat:
"C:\Program Files\cclutch\inject.exe" "C:\Program Files\cclutch\cclutch_ix.dll" patch "C:\Games\Steam\steam.exe"

For non steam game, just change the steam.exe path to you game path and exe.


----------



## neliz

Got my screen in yesterday (Q270 SE, C2 serieal). It took less than a day to travel from Korea to France and four days to get from France to Holland.

The stand is wobbly but sturdy, no dead pixels there was a terrible green hue over the screen and right now I feel there's still too much red in it, it is a really nice quiet and bright display. I'm going to try and OC it after I've taken a shower.


----------



## illli

nice find bQ


----------



## C_H_T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neliz*
> 
> Got my screen in yesterday (Q270 SE, C2 serieal). It took less than a day to travel from Korea to France and four days to get from France to Holland.
> The stand is wobbly but sturdy, no dead pixels there was a terrible green hue over the screen and right now I feel there's still too much red in it, it is a really nice quiet and bright display. I'm going to try and OC it after I've taken a shower.


Hi neliz,

I assume you are also from the Netherlands.
Why did it went via France to the Netherlands?
In addition, did you had to pay tax?


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> *Fix for Nvidia Color Calibration -> Ingame Full-screen*
> All steam games, that uses the steam overlay, ignores callibration. But i found that if i launched Steam.exe with Color Cloutch, ALL steam games keeps the desktop calibration! Great!
> This is my Batch for starting steam, i have put it in my StartUp folder, so it launches when my computer turns on!
> Steam.bat:
> "C:\Program Files\cclutch\inject.exe" "C:\Program Files\cclutch\cclutch_ix.dll" patch "C:\Games\Steam\steam.exe"
> For non steam game, just change the steam.exe path to you game path and exe.


Bump for this to get put in the information posts at the beginning of this thread.

Anyone have a way to force it with ATI cards besides using powerstrip, load up the color profile, and enabling the setting "Write directly to palette DAC"? This, I believe, writes directly to the hardware so no matter what every game will use this (even Steam). Am I correct in this?


----------



## neliz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C_H_T*
> 
> Hi neliz,
> I assume you are also from the Netherlands.
> Why did it went via France to the Netherlands?
> In addition, did you had to pay tax?


it was shipped with Fedex on the 28th(ordered on 28th early in the morning Korean time), arrived in Paris on the 29th and arrived today (apr 2nd) in Holland,.

The value declared on the screen was $80 and was marked as a gift.
It wasn't delayed at customs it seems and I didn't find any trace of customs or fedex checking the value or contents. But it wouldn't be the first time I would get an invoice afterwards.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Customs has had mine since Friday in LA. I wish they'd just hurry up and ship it out!

Those of you who had your item checked at the customs in LAX, how long did customs have it before shipping it off?


----------



## gibsy

Lol, asking the same question for about 3 times but too bad, no one answers me..








But still wanna ask some more, has anyone ever tried this monitor in eyefinity/surround?how large is the bezels??thanks in advance. I hope this time works..


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> Lol, asking the same question for about 3 times but too bad, no one answers me..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But still wanna ask some more, has anyone ever tried this monitor in eyefinity/surround?how large is the bezels??thanks in advance. I hope this time works..


No reply probably means no one has tried it...even so, running three of these for gaming would take an incredible amount of horsepower at that resolution. You would need 3 or 4 way CF 7970s to get decent frame rates. 680s don't scale well at all in 3 and 4 way SLI. The bezel is about an inch maybe just under. Definitely over and inch and a half when you have 2 next to each other. Ill get exact measurements when I get home.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Bump for this to get put in the information posts at the beginning of this thread.
> Anyone have a way to force it with ATI cards besides using powerstrip, load up the color profile, and enabling the setting "Write directly to palette DAC"? This, I believe, writes directly to the hardware so no matter what every game will use this (even Steam). Am I correct in this?


It will work for ATI aswell, but "Write directly to palette DAC" is the only perfect solution! It will work on everything. Just Nvidia can't do this.


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> *Fix for Nvidia Color Calibration -> Ingame Full-screen*
> All steam games, that uses the steam overlay, ignores callibration. But i found that if i launched Steam.exe with Color Cloutch, ALL steam games keeps the desktop calibration! Great!
> This is my Batch for starting steam, i have put it in my StartUp folder, so it launches when my computer turns on!
> Steam.bat:
> "C:\Program Files\cclutch\inject.exe" "C:\Program Files\cclutch\cclutch_ix.dll" patch "C:\Games\Steam\steam.exe"
> For non steam game, just change the steam.exe path to you game path and exe.


Thanks for the settings they work perfectly for desktop use, however I am having trouble getting cclutch to work.

My bat file is "C:\cclutch\inject.exe" "C:\cclutch\cclutch_ix.dll" patch "C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\Steam.exe"

On launch I just get "Steam is Updating" and then "Steam is temporarily unavailable, please try later". Obviously if I launch steam normally it works fine. Any ideas?


----------



## gibsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> No reply probably means no one has tried it...even so, running three of these for gaming would take an incredible amount of horsepower at that resolution. You would need 3 or 4 way CF 7970s to get decent frame rates. 680s don't scale well at all in 3 and 4 way SLI. The bezel is about an inch maybe just under. Definitely over and inch and a half when you have 2 next to each other. Ill get exact measurements when I get home.


Thanks man..


----------



## gibsy

Also another question, can this monitor set up to 1080p and does it looks good or crappy? thanks


----------



## C_H_T

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neliz*
> 
> it was shipped with Fedex on the 28th(ordered on 28th early in the morning Korean time), arrived in Paris on the 29th and arrived today (apr 2nd) in Holland,.
> The value declared on the screen was $80 and was marked as a gift.
> It wasn't delayed at customs it seems and I didn't find any trace of customs or fedex checking the value or contents. But it wouldn't be the first time I would get an invoice afterwards.


1+ , thanks for sharing.
Btw, from which seller did you bought, if I may ask?


----------



## neliz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> Lol, asking the same question for about 3 times but too bad, no one answers me..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But still wanna ask some more, has anyone ever tried this monitor in eyefinity/surround?how large is the bezels??thanks in advance. I hope this time works..


This picture will help you:

http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2589553#post2589553

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *C_H_T*
> 
> 1+ , thanks for sharing.
> Btw, from which seller did you bought, if I may ask?


dcsamsungmall
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> Also another question, can this monitor set up to 1080p and does it looks good or crappy? thanks


If you've read the thread, you would've seen that this monitor itself has no scaler, but you GPU can handle it just fine.
1080p still looks good, it's like complaining a Blu-ray wouldn't look good on this monitor because of the resolution :S


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *horrorwood*
> 
> Thanks for the settings they work perfectly for desktop use, however I am having trouble getting cclutch to work.
> My bat file is "C:\cclutch\inject.exe" "C:\cclutch\cclutch_ix.dll" patch "C:\Program Files (x86)\Steam\Steam.exe"
> On launch I just get "Steam is Updating" and then "Steam is temporarily unavailable, please try later". Obviously if I launch steam normally it works fine. Any ideas?


Hmm strange, min just works flawless.

Try deleting ClientRegestry.blob from your steam-folder, and relaunch the game with your .bat

Edit: Btw, after this i started using ToasyX's color profile again. (Catleap D65), its more precise!


----------



## pitty

I wonder how much of the bezel you can shave off with some modding.

Also 2 x 7970 or 2 x GTX680 would run 3 monitors fine.

You might not be able to run some games with all eyecandy turned on, but you can definatly tweak the games.

Most games wouldn't require any AA, since the rez is so high, so you will save some performance in that area.

Turning off things like Post Processing, which is a real performance killer (and looks crap imo) will also help.

MMO's like RIFT, WoW, hell guild wars 2 will run fine on probably even 1 card with some tweaking.

I know this because ive been running 6000x1080 on 1x 5870 for about a year now. I have 2x 5870's i just leave 1 disabled because you have to run crossfire in fullscreen, and i hate fullscreen gaming.

Apparently SLI 680 can run in windowed mode as well.


----------



## Odilepont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *neliz*
> 
> it was shipped with Fedex on the 28th(ordered on 28th early in the morning Korean time), arrived in Paris on the 29th and arrived today (apr 2nd) in Holland,.
> The value declared on the screen was $80 and was marked as a gift.
> It wasn't delayed at customs it seems and I didn't find any trace of customs or fedex checking the value or contents. But it wouldn't be the first time I would get an invoice afterwards.


Great, my keyboard got here today w/ fedex as well. Went pretty similar :3
Lexington ( Mar. 27th ) > Indianapolis > Paris > Netherlands ( Apr. 2nd )


----------



## darrenb123

This doesn't sound good. I just checked the progress of my monitor and it said it has been handed over to customs and "Customs retention reason : Awaiting presentation to customs commissioner"

***


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> This doesn't sound good. I just checked the progress of my monitor and it said it has been handed over to customs and "Customs retention reason : Awaiting presentation to customs commissioner"
> ***


I got the exact same status when my monitor went through Canadian customs. I didn't end up paying any taxes.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I got the exact same status when my monitor went through Canadian customs. I didn't end up paying any taxes.


Oh really...when I saw that I started tripping out lol.

You got yours declared really low didn't you? Mine was at $100 so I'm iffy about this.


----------



## Xzyrus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Oh really...when I saw that I started tripping out lol.
> You got yours declared really low didn't you? Mine was at $100 so I'm iffy about this.


Mine was a $100 gift as well. I'm in Toronto and didn't have to pay anything else in addition to ebay + conversion fees. Mine sat in customs from Mar 22 until the 26th so roughl 2 business days only which isn't too bad.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Oh really...when I saw that I started tripping out lol.
> You got yours declared really low didn't you? Mine was at $100 so I'm iffy about this.


$100 is pretty safe.


----------



## kevinsbane

Technically speaking, a $100 gift is still subject to tax. I dunno how it would apply, or if it would be enforced, but them's the rules. I don't remember what mine was declared as, unfortunately.

For what it's worth, my monitor arrived at customs 10 pm Sunday evening, cleared customs in 3 hours and was delivered the next morning.


----------



## TheJesus

Posted this in the other thread, but this one might find it relevant as well.

So, update on the pixel clock shenanigans:

_Response and Service Request History:

Would you be able to send the EDID information that is coming from the monitor?

This utility will provide information on how the EEPROM chip or the driver file from the monitor is reporting this to the OS.

1. Please provide the EDID report (using GetEDID.exe) of your monitor while it is connected to the graphics card. You can obtain the GetEDID.exe file from the following location using an FTP Client Software like FileZilla or CuteFTP.

*snip for privacy*

In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.

Best regards,

AMD Global Customer Care_

So, ToastyX or bqvle or whoever has the technical know-how and the monitor with OC parts, please PM me for this info


----------



## gibsy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Posted this in the other thread, but this one might find it relevant as well.
> So, update on the pixel clock shenanigans:
> _Response and Service Request History:
> Would you be able to send the EDID information that is coming from the monitor?
> This utility will provide information on how the EEPROM chip or the driver file from the monitor is reporting this to the OS.
> 1. Please provide the EDID report (using GetEDID.exe) of your monitor while it is connected to the graphics card. You can obtain the GetEDID.exe file from the following location using an FTP Client Software like FileZilla or CuteFTP.
> *snip for privacy*
> In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.
> Best regards,
> AMD Global Customer Care_
> So, ToastyX or bqvle or whoever has the technical know-how and the monitor with OC parts, please PM me for this info


So, are you being able to find the OC parts?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> So, are you being able to find the OC parts?


There are about 3 or 4 of us working on different places. Scribby is the closest. I'm simply trying to get ATI to confirm whether or not there is a hardware issue with 2560x1440 @ 120Hz. ToastyX has said that the pixel clock rate is too low to support it, but ATI denied it and then escalated it to higher support once we stated that it was due to "The driver is ignoring detailed timing descriptors in the EDID where the pixel clock exceeds 330 MHz when using dual-link DVI, and 288 MHz when using DisplayPort." So now I need the EDID info for an OC monitor to send them.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> Lol, asking the same question for about 3 times but too bad, no one answers me..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But still wanna ask some more, has anyone ever tried this monitor in eyefinity/surround?how large is the bezels??thanks in advance. I hope this time works..


I have not seen a post here with it. I imagine it would look like crap. Bezels are 1 inch with 1.5 on the bottom (posted in op). No way to shave the bezels unless you removed them altogether based on how the monitor goes together. You could make a custom setup with these pretty easily I think since the panels only require 4 screws to hold them onto a backing.


----------



## gibsy

Scribby is back!







by the way, thank you so much for your hardworking especially the one who works on requesting the OC panels (Scribby,Toastyx,thejesus,bqvel to name a few)..You guys are our savior!!


----------



## runge

Hi everyone!

I'm new here and I find this forum to be really great!

I got my Yamakasi Q270 SE yesterday from dcsamsungmall and it works just great. No dead pixels!
Haven't tried to OC it since I have the 2C model.

I'm running it with a Asus GeForce GTX 460 1GB (ENGTX460 DIRECTCU/2DI/1GD5).


----------



## hybridtracer

Just want to report on how fast these guys actually are. I ordered two more monitors for a friend and I at around 12:30 AM last night and I got a shipping confirmation with tracking number at 1:30 AM....so fast. Seller was dcsamsungmall. Can't wait to complete my setup. Pictures will follow.


----------



## Aquineas

Now just waiting for the musical sound of my doorbell:

Code:



Code:


Apr 3, 2012 7:49 AM
On FedEx vehicle for delivery

Unfortunately, I still haven't:


Received or heard anything back from the Active DP to Dual DVI adapter vendor I linked to earlier, despite paying for next-day air shipment. Unfortunately I am going to need this with my 7970s. I am going to seriously turn the heat up on this guy today
Received the dual monitor stand; that's due on the 5th.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> Now just waiting for the musical sound of my doorbell:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> Apr 3, 2012 7:49 AM
> On FedEx vehicle for delivery
> 
> Unfortunately, I still haven't:
> 
> Received or heard anything back from the Active DP to Dual DVI adapter I linked to earlier, despite paying for next-day air shipment. Unfortunately I am going to need this with my 7970s. I am going to seriously turn the heat up on this guy today
> Received the dual monitor stand; that's due on the 5th.


Why is the adapter needed for the 7970's? Don't they all have 1 DL DVI port?


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Why is the adapter needed for the 7970's? Don't they all have 1 DL DVI port?


2 monitors.


----------



## bQvle

*My desk have been premoted once again







*

Yet another 2C but with flawless panel!

Note: Default callibration is very different, and they cant use same color profile! i had to callibrate them seperetly to get colors alike!



Edit: Picture was before callibration, and you actually see the difference.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> *My desk have been premoted once again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> Yet another 2C but with flawless panel!
> Note: Default callibration is very different, and they cant use same color profile! i had to callibrate them seperetly to get colors alike!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Picture was before callibration, and you actually see the difference.


Nice! Your desk is too clean to be a developer.


----------



## Goodfella

I keep reading how some of you are getting these monitors delivered in 3 days. I bought one from green-sum last Thursday and have not received any updates at all up to this point







Gonna be sending him/her a message to find out what's going on.


----------



## eternal7trance

What would I need to buy to make this monitor work on a US electric outlet?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/320865591510?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51460d6


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> What would I need to buy to make this monitor work on a US electric outlet?
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/320865591510?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51460d6


Just a standard three-prong pc power cable, which, if you're like me, you probably have laying around your home already.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> Scribby is back!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> by the way, thank you so much for your hardworking especially the one who works on requesting the OC panels (Scribby,Toastyx,thejesus,bqvel to name a few)..You guys are our savior!!


Not back on vacation!







Won't be doing any updates to the OP for a week. No news on my pcbs. They have been paid for no shipping info yet.


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goodfella*
> 
> I keep reading how some of you are getting these monitors delivered in 3 days. I bought one from green-sum last Thursday and have not received any updates at all up to this point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gonna be sending him/her a message to find out what's going on.


dont fret dude , i got mine within about a week , maybe not as fast as some , but way faster than the estimated ship date


----------



## darrenb123

So here are the details on my shipping. I ordered the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Multi from green-sum on thursday night. It was shipped on the 30th of March and I just received it a couple hours ago so a total of 3 business days. I live in Canada and requested the package be declared for $100 as a gift and it went through customs and whatnot and when my brother received it today there were no custom fees. I'll post pics later tonight when I get home. Scribby I'm not sure if the fact that it was declared for $100 could help out the OP faqs but it may give other Canadians an idea.

I have to buy a power cable and will probably let you guys now how things go on the weekend.


----------



## joarce

Hello, first post!

Can anyone confirm this monitor will work with a late 2008 Macbook Pro? Max resolution quoted for external monitors is 2560 x 1600. Video card is 9600M GT 256MB. Don't want to overclock (blasphemous, I know), just use it as an external display in clamshell mode using a Display Port to DVI-D cable.

Thanks to any and all who can help!

joi


----------



## komichi

Has anyone calibrate these catleaps with the proper equipment? I would totally love a profile.


----------



## EnzoFX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> Just a standard three-prong pc power cable, which, if you're like me, you probably have laying around your home already.


Yeah, it's in the OP. However it is confusing seeing as the pics keep showing a dc adapter input. I've yet to see a picture with an AC plug.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Has anyone calibrate these catleaps with the proper equipment? I would totally love a profile.


In this post, there's a section on Monitor Calibration (you will have to expand it).

Okay I got mine.


both are C models
both have AG coating
The text on these bad-boys makes my old Samsung Syncmaster 2443 look like an old Radio Shack Color Computer TV display
7970 recognized it as "Generic PnP Monitor" and immediately and set resolution to 2560x1440 automatically
Haven't tried to OC yet; gotta figure out how to do that (yes, I know there's a post somewhere, I just need to dig back through the thousands of posts over the last few weeks and find it).
The packaging smelled as if it was soaked in a plastic toxic chemical dump.
Yes monitor stands are wobbly, though they don't bother me too much because: a) I've got a dual stand coming, and b) my desk is a built-in so it's pretty solid.
I can't test eyefinity yet until I get the adapter
Oh, and one more thing: Mine both have an audio input plug? Haven't tested to see if that means speakers or not..
Mine too leans to the right.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Well this is awkward. Left to wash my car and found my tempered glass unstuck from the monitor and on my desk.


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> Well this is awkward. Left to wash my car and found my tempered glass unstuck from the monitor and on my desk.




It didn't break?


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> 
> It didn't break?


It sounds like a glass panel when I tap it with my finger but nope it didn't break







I'll just store the glass somewhere. It's not much better to have it on, just looks shiny and I can see my reflection sometimes.


----------



## mm99

[*] both have AG coating

!!! This is the second report of people receiving Catleaps with AG. Can someone comment? I thought these Korean IPS monitors were all glossy. This is the one selling point for me over domestic IPS screens is that these 27" IPS are glossy. I would be emo if mine comes in with AG.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm99*
> 
> [*] both have AG coating
> !!! This is the second report of people receiving Catleaps with AG. Can someone comment? I thought these Korean IPS monitors were all glossy. This is the one selling point for me over domestic IPS screens is that these 27" IPS are glossy. I would be emo if mine comes in with AG.


Yeah, no idea how that works. I think the non-ag would have bothered me, to be honest, so I'm not complaining. Here is what I bought for 358.60.

The star of this display is the panel. The bezel is cheap (mine is even warped a bit), the stand is cheap, the connectors are cheap. I love it though!


----------



## teraflame

Aquineas can you post pics of yours? In a well lit room please.


----------



## ezmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mm99*
> 
> [*] both have AG coating
> !!! This is the second report of people receiving Catleaps with AG. Can someone comment? I thought these Korean IPS monitors were all glossy. This is the one selling point for me over domestic IPS screens is that these 27" IPS are glossy. I would be emo if mine comes in with AG.


+1

Also, I'd hope we can assume that all the models with the "tempered glass" are glossy... wouldn't it kinda defeat the purpose to have an AG coating _with_ glass? Can those of you who got the version with the tempered glass confirm that it is _not_ AG?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezmo85*
> 
> +1
> Also, I'd hope we can assume that all the models with the "tempered glass" are glossy... wouldn't it kinda defeat the purpose to have an AG coating _with_ glass? Can those of you who got the version with the tempered glass confirm that it is _not_ AG?


Mine is glossy underneath it's glossy tempered glass.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teraflame*
> 
> Aquineas can you post pics of yours? In a well lit room please.


I will do so when I get the adapter and have both monitors going. Also, I'm expecting the dual stand in the next couple of days, and someone else had asked for a photo of that, so I'll kill two birds with one stone.


----------



## darrenb123

Hey guys I opened it up but have no computer to hook it up to so I'll be testing my PS3 on it. One thing I noticed was inside the box, but not inside the monitor box, there was a little adapter and it fit onto the Korean power cable so I'm guessing I'll be able to run the monitor w/o having to buy anything. Has anyone received something like this from green-sum? Here are some pictures:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/72/img2265fq.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/img2268qa.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/img2269uu.jpg/

Would it be safe to use this?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Hey guys I opened it up but have no computer to hook it up to so I'll be testing my PS3 on it. One thing I noticed was inside the box, but not inside the monitor box, there was a little adapter and it fit onto the Korean power cable so I'm guessing I'll be able to run the monitor w/o having to buy anything. Has anyone received something like this from green-sum? Here are some pictures:
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/72/img2265fq.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/img2268qa.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/img2269uu.jpg/
> Would it be safe to use this?


Green-sum seems to include that with all their monitors; I got one as well, but had the north american version of the AC power cord handy anyways so I didn't bother using it. It should be perfectly safe to use that to power the monitor from a north american socket.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Green-sum seems to include that with all their monitors; I got one as well, but had the north american version of the AC power cord handy anyways so I didn't bother using it. It should be perfectly safe to use that to power the monitor from a north american socket.


K sweet, I'm going to use this just to test out the monitor until I buy a 3 prong power cord. Thanks.


----------



## Anjexu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Hey guys I opened it up but have no computer to hook it up to so I'll be testing my PS3 on it. One thing I noticed was inside the box, but not inside the monitor box, there was a little adapter and it fit onto the Korean power cable so I'm guessing I'll be able to run the monitor w/o having to buy anything. Has anyone received something like this from green-sum? Here are some pictures:
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/72/img2265fq.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/img2268qa.jpg/
> http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/706/img2269uu.jpg/
> Would it be safe to use this?


I used it myself but not for the Catleap, tested it out on my old 2009WA and it worked fine. I didn't use it for very long but I think it'll be fine until you get the replacement.


----------



## EnzoFX

Can anyone speak to these monitors reliability? Should I get a squaretrade warranty? In my experience, monitors are pretty solid, but I've never had a generic-ish one. I understand the panel is quality, but are the rest of the cheaper components more likely to cause problems in the future?


----------



## Miagi100

<<noob to any monitor lingo and specifications.

I was curious about the ag coating vs glossy? The newer orders being place is it safe to say these are infact glossy? I myself didn't see any posts about their monitors arriving with ag coating but I was just curious. Also could anyone give me a definitive answer if tempered glass vs non tempered is anything to look into closely. pros, cons?

random question: would ordering tonight be delayed by the holiday weekend? or should I wait.

thanx guys.


----------



## thyroid

Hi guys, I just received my monitor! I noticed that my powerbrick is different than the one scribby posted. I have no idea when it comes to electrical equipment so I'm wondering if anyone could let me know if my power adapter works in Canada?

Edit: I did some homework and it doesn't work in Canada (although, I haven't tried). : \ Is this a new phenomenon? Anyone else in Canada or the US stuck with an adapter that doesn't support multiple voltages?

Here's an image of my power brick.



Thanks! I'll post more pics once the monitor is running.


----------



## eagleeyez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Hi guys, I just received my monitor! I noticed that my powerbrick is different than the one scribby posted. I have no idea when it comes to electrical equipment so I'm wondering if anyone could let me know if my power adapter works in Canada?
> Edit: I did some homework and it doesn't work in Canada (although, I haven't tried). : \ Is this a new phenomenon? Anyone else in Canada or the US stuck with an adapter that doesn't support multiple voltages?
> Here's an image of my power brick.
> 
> Thanks! I'll post more pics once the monitor is running.


This should work without a problem you just have to swap the cable and use it... in the power block it's indicated that it support the voltage and frequency used here in Canada so no worry about that.


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagleeyez*
> 
> This should work without a problem you just have to swap the cable and use it... in the power block it's indicated that it support the voltage and frequency used here in Canada so no worry about that.


How can you tell? From what I read, we support 110V-120V in Canada and the power brick shows 190V-240V.


----------



## cleansparks

I spent a lot of time trying to get this to work with Fedora Core 16 x86_64, so I though I would post what finally worked in case it helps someone. Fedora kept reporting that the EDID was bad and had a bad checksum and the EDID values wouldn't get loaded.

First, I installed the rpmfusion nvidia drivers and disabled the nouveau drivers. Here are a couple links that helped with that. Step 5 on the second link was helpful in disabling nouveau drivers.

http://rpmfusion.org/Howto/nVidia#GeForce_6_and_newer

http://www.if-not-true-then-false.com/2011/fedora-16-nvidia-drivers-install-guide-disable-nouveau-driver/

Here is a portion of my /etc/X11/xorg.conf and I bolded what I think are the important lines:

Section "Screen"

Identifier "Screen0"
Device "Device0"
Monitor "Monitor0"
DefaultDepth 24
*Option "UseEdid" "False"*
*Option "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"*
SubSection "Display"
Depth 24
*Modes "2560x1440"*
EndSubSection
EndSection

Section "Device"
Identifier "Device0"
Driver "nvidia"
VendorName "NVIDIA Corporation"
EndSection

Section "Monitor"

Identifier "Monitor0"
VendorName "Unknown"
ModelName "Unknown"
HorizSync 28.0 - 88.9
VertRefresh 43.0 - 72.0
*ModeLine "2560x1440" 241.5 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 -hsync +vsync*
Option "DPMS"
EndSection

I posted my entire xorg.conf here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12546716/xorg.conf


----------



## saiyr

I got the same power brick with my monitor today in the US. Doesn't seem to work. I could have sworn I saw the green light come on when I initially plugged it in, but by the time I tried to turn on the monitor it stopped working. I've tried various outlets and cables. Any ideas?


----------



## siberx

I have discovered something particularly interesting that may be relevant to the interests of people hoping to mod 2C's to 2B's. I am temporarily in posession of stryker7314's 2B DVI board while I attempt to repair his damaged backlight driver circuitry (probably just a blown mosfet or something). While I was examining the board though, I noticed something particularly interesting. A couple pictures will illustrate well:

Here's a close shot of the DVI to eDP portion of my 2C DVI board:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







And here's an equivalent of stryker's 2B DVI to LVDS board:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







If you examine these two boards closely at this section, you'll probably notice that the big main chip (which is a DVI receiver made by Explore Microelectronics) is present on both; immediately to the left of this chip on the 2C board however is a second chip, labeled IT6251. While I'm unable to find a datasheet on this particular part, I can make a pretty good guess based on the manufacturer's products combined with its placement on the board; it's a 2-channel LVDS to 4-lane eDP converter chip. Why do we care?

*Because it means a 2C PCB has all the important components already there to drive a 2B panel and timing controller.*

Now, closer examination of the boards reveals that in the 2C they're only using half of the output LVDS lanes (running in 2-channel mode) provided by the EP269 compared to the 4-channel mode on the 2B (indicated by the larger number of resistor packs marked 750 on that board). I don't have a datasheet yet for that exact chip, but a closely related datasheet (EP263) shows that mode selection between output formats is simply chosen by holding a couple pins high or low. By modifying these mode pins on a 2C board's chip and rewiring the output from the chip, we can drive a high refresh T-con by *bypassing the ITE LVDS-eDP converter altogether*.

Now, this is obviously a highly skilled and labour-intensive mod; you'd need to desolder the 750ohm resistor packs to detach the output from the EP269, solder the mode lines to whatever is required to enable all 4 output channels, then solder a few ribbon cables from the left half of the EP269 to a small daughter board containing a few passive components and a couple 2B style connectors. Once *that* is done though, all you need is a source for the two cables and a T-con (which there seem to be a couple viable sources through taobao, I'll update later with my experience here letting you know if it's a valid way to source the boards) and your previously 2C monitor should overclock with aplomb.

I know this is probably over the heads of a lot of the people reading here, but the take-away point is that assuming you can find somebody with the soldering skills (I doubt I could do the mod for all those interested, although I can pioneer it and produce a guide) it's actually possible to convert a 2C DVI board into effectively a 2B DVI board, solving half our problem (and all of it if you can get a T-con). Sure, it'd be easier if Scribby can source the boards and we can do a drop-in replacement - but worst comes to worst there *is* another way









I still need to scare up a copy of the EP269's datasheet, so if anybody comes across it *please* let me know!

As a bonus, while examining the boards and connectors I was able to pin out the LVDS connectors on the 2B PCB if it's useful to anybody. Combined with the SLA1 datasheet, this allows you to reproduce the cables fairly easily if we can't find a ready-made source.


----------



## Adhunt

So there seems to be a number of people suggesting that they've received faulty power adapters. My 'Welltronics' has worked fine so far on 240V - my question is whether there is a risk that the power adapters might cause an electrocution or fire hazard?

If so, could you replace it with a different one of a more well-known brand that complies with safety standards?


----------



## saiyr

Does anyone know the difference between these two adapters? They're by the same seller but there's a huge price difference:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/280673899776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415977d500#ht_1531wt_984

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-AC-adapter-for-Sharp-IT23M1U-IT-23M1U-LCD-TV-4-pin-/230429304449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6a82681#ht_1535wt_984

The first one is currently on the front page. I would really like a fast resolution to my lack of power.

Edit: Looks like the connector polarity is backwards. Kind of ridiculous that the one we need is so much. And they're all coincidentally very new listings...


----------



## Phenrick

I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient. I do a lot of word processing with a mostly white screen and it's starting to annoy the hell out of me. The left half of the screen is significantly brighter than the right half! The monitor also has a faint buzzing sound from the chokes. Its a 2C version Q270 with speakers (no glass).

Has anyone else had this problem? I read probably 100 pages of threads and never heard of banding this severe. I'm in the process of trying to get some kind of refund from Red-cap for this


----------



## komichi

I ordered my catleap a few hours ago from http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/320865591510?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab51460d6

Is there a way to tell what I am getting? Since there are all kinds of models without glass and with speaker, these pages don't tell me anything.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient. I do a lot of word processing with a mostly white screen and it's starting to annoy the hell out of me. The left half of the screen is significantly brighter than the right half! The monitor also has a faint buzzing sound from the chokes. Its a 2C version Q270 with speakers (no glass).
> Has anyone else had this problem? I read probably 100 pages of threads and never heard of banding this severe. I'm in the process of getting some kind of refund from Red-cap for this piece of #*()$*&@#.


I know I've seen it somewhere in the other thread before, I think someone mentioned it may be due to a loose cable inside the monitor. The buzzing is also fixed by opening the monitor and putting some stuff on it, there is a guide to do it by CharlesK I believe.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Hi guys, I just received my monitor! I noticed that my powerbrick is different than the one scribby posted. I have no idea when it comes to electrical equipment so I'm wondering if anyone could let me know if my power adapter works in Canada?
> Edit: I did some homework and it doesn't work in Canada (although, I haven't tried). : \ Is this a new phenomenon? Anyone else in Canada or the US stuck with an adapter that doesn't support multiple voltages?
> Here's an image of my power brick.
> 
> Thanks! I'll post more pics once the monitor is running.


I know people will hate to hear my opinion, but more and more this leads me to believe these monitors are being pieced together with whatever parts and extras manufacturers can find. This 190-240v brick is an entirely new wrinkle and totally worthless in the US and Canada as it won't be supported. This is like the Shimian bricks that are like 220-240v only.

Again, these all appear to be grab bag part monitors. While the panels are great, the PCBs and supporting hardware are whatever comes out of the bin at the end of the line. Too many variances monitor to monitor for me to think these are all meeting a specific standard or spec. This also explains why we can by a monitor for $400 less than what is sold here in the US.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Now, closer examination of the boards reveals that in the 2C they're only using half of the output LVDS lanes (running in 2-channel mode) provided by the EP269 compared to the 4-channel mode on the 2B (indicated by the larger number of resistor packs marked 750 on that board).


If that's the case, then maybe the DVI board is the limit and not the t-con board. The 2B t-con board seems to be the hardest to source since it's provided with the panel module, so if we can avoid having to replace the 2C t-con board, that would make things easier. We need someone to directly drive the 2C t-con board with DisplayPort to see what it can do.

I'm not sure reverse engineering the 2B boards will get us anywhere. Even if they are successfully reverse engineered (which requires destroying the original boards), where are we going to get all the parts, especially the LG-branded chip on the 2B t-con board? If a microcontroller is involved, where are we going to get the firmware?

I think we'd be better off getting our own boards made or finding existing boards that can do what we want. If the 2C t-con board can do higher refresh rates, then we only need a DVI board, or maybe just a pass through DisplayPort board with HDCP support.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I think we'd be better off getting our own boards made or finding existing boards that can do what we want. If the 2C t-con board can do higher refresh rates, then we only need a DVI board, or maybe just a pass through DisplayPort board with HDCP support.


I'm still of the opinion that eDP with the given chips (especially the parade controller on the 2C T-con) is simply not going to give us the bandwidth we need. I'd be more than willing to solder up an adapter board to test direct eDP driving anyways, but I don't have any available displayport outputs on any of my video cards...

This is not to even mention the apparent low pixel clock limits over DP on amd, either.


----------



## darrenb123

Hey,

So I ran my PS3 on the Multi version and it was fine, I don't know how to tell if there is input lag or w/e but for the most part it played fine and movies looked really nice. There were no dead pixels. I'll post up pictures sometime tomorrow.

So far I have only two concerns/problems:

- Is there a way to change the language on the monitor to English? One button (the first one) brought up a menu but I couldn't figure it out
- How can I calibrate this?

*I'd like to note that my pc is still being built and will get it on the weekend.


----------



## wedge22

I have finally found the time to unbox my Catleap, its awesome, using it right now and it looks great.


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> - Is there a way to change the language on the monitor to English? One button (the first one) brought up a menu but I couldn't figure it out


Crossover (27MLED) has korean and english judging by its manual, I suspect that Yamakasi has a similiar OSD - so keep trying








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> - How can I calibrate this?


You will need a hardware calibrator to do this properly.


----------



## Anjexu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyr*
> 
> Does anyone know the difference between these two adapters? They're by the same seller but there's a huge price difference:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-24V-5A-For-EFL-2202W-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/280673899776?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item415977d500#ht_1531wt_984
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-AC-adapter-for-Sharp-IT23M1U-IT-23M1U-LCD-TV-4-pin-/230429304449?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35a6a82681#ht_1535wt_984
> The first one is currently on the front page. I would really like a fast resolution to my lack of power.
> Edit: Looks like the connector polarity is backwards. Kind of ridiculous that the one we need is so much. And they're all coincidentally very new listings...


Aye, I have no idea why they hiked the prices so much - not worth it unless your power brick is broken imo.

I bought one when they were both ~$24 or whatever, it should arrive tomorrow or so.

Nothing wrong with my original brick, mainly wanted one that ran a bit cooler.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukaav*
> 
> You will need a hardware calibrator to do this properly.


Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!

- Go to Change Screen Resolution > Advanced > Color Management and open Color Managment
- Go to Advanced tap
- Press Calibrate Screen

Ajust gamma, and turn down green and blue, till you are satisfied.


----------



## DASM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient.


I have a same problem and I know workaround. The controller board is designed unreasonable, but you may fix it by soldering one resistor. Please wait, I will upload instruction soon.


----------



## lukaav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!


It will be still not calibrated, just in a different way.

Your eyes adapt quickly to what they see and your brain tends to ignore the way-off color temperature after a while - making a properly calibrated screen look very strange at first (until your eyes and brain adapt again).
Because of that it is very hard to get something that is even remotely close to what it should be just by the "eye calibration".


----------



## DASM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I know I've seen it somewhere in the other thread before, I think someone mentioned it may be due to a loose cable inside the monitor. The buzzing is also fixed by opening the monitor and putting some stuff on it, there is a guide to do it by CharlesK I believe.


No, it is because design is very sensitive to components accuracy.


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I bought a Catleap last week because of the rave reviews it was getting and just received it yesterday from Red-cap. I was pleasantly surprised to see no dead pixels, but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient. I do a lot of word processing with a mostly white screen and it's starting to annoy the hell out of me. The left half of the screen is significantly brighter than the right half! The monitor also has a faint buzzing sound from the chokes. Its a 2C version Q270 with speakers (no glass).
> Has anyone else had this problem? I read probably 100 pages of threads and never heard of banding this severe. I'm in the process of trying to get some kind of refund from Red-cap for this


Someone had the same problem here : http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/1400_40#post_16795542 (I don't know if he solved it though)

For Fixing the buzzing sound, here is a little tutorial :
Quote:


> If your monotor is buzzing, the culprit is likely to be a choke, these components vibrate when they operate, and create the buzzing sound.
> One way to silence them is to cover them with glue (epoxy or hot glue) so they can't vibrate anymore.
> 
> It's harmless for these components, actually it's a technique widely used, so don't worry about it .
> 
> In theses Koreans monitors there is 2 chokes that may buzz (it's not systematic), they are situated on the panel PCB, the one covered by the metal hood.
> 
> (You can find how to disassemble the catleap in the catleap club FP, here for the shimian)
> 
> 
> 
> Cover them with glue (epoxy or hot glue), try to make the glue get in the coil of wire for a better result.


----------



## bQvle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukaav*
> 
> It will be still not calibrated, just in a different way.
> Your eyes adapt quickly to what they see and your brain tends to ignore the way-off color temperature after a while - making a properly calibrated screen look very strange at first (until your eyes and brain adapt again).
> Because of that it is very hard to get something that is even remotely close to what it should be just by the "eye calibration".


Correct, but it will still look alot better then the factory green tint! I will be calibrated to your eyes!
Its easier when you have 2 monitors side by side for comparison!

I had to re-calibrate back and forth, between my monitors.

First "left" was ugly compared to "right" which i "thought" looked perfect! (brain told me it was perfect)

Then i calibrated "left", then "right" looked ugly.. and so on. (now brain told me left was perfect).

Then calibrated right again.

Now they both look very natural to me, (maybe not correct according to some ISF / 65k standards).
but still, important part is that it look natual! out of the box is really, way off!

So people who dont have the "propper" equipment should still go ahead with this!


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I know people will hate to hear my opinion, but more and more this leads me to believe these monitors are being pieced together with whatever parts and extras manufacturers can find. This 190-240v brick is an entirely new wrinkle and totally worthless in the US and Canada as it won't be supported. This is like the Shimian bricks that are like 220-240v only.
> 
> Again, these all appear to be grab bag part monitors. While the panels are great, the PCBs and supporting hardware are whatever comes out of the bin at the end of the line. Too many variances monitor to monitor for me to think these are all meeting a specific standard or spec. This also explains why we can by a monitor for $400 less than what is sold here in the US.


I completely agree. I think they're leftover parts from big (translation Apple or Dell) manufacturing contracts. It's really the luck of the draw. Most of us got lucky; I know I did. I would really hate to have had, for example, one with AG coating and one without.


----------



## mydsmbr

hey guys,

can someone please help me.
I just have one question.
Does this monitor works with an Macbook Pro Mid2010 (Nvidia GT330M) and a active miniDisplay Port to Dual DVI- Adapter?

Thank you.


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I know people will hate to hear my opinion, but more and more this leads me to believe these monitors are being pieced together with whatever parts and extras manufacturers can find. This 190-240v brick is an entirely new wrinkle and totally worthless in the US and Canada as it won't be supported. This is like the Shimian bricks that are like 220-240v only.
> 
> Again, these all appear to be grab bag part monitors. While the panels are great, the PCBs and supporting hardware are whatever comes out of the bin at the end of the line. Too many variances monitor to monitor for me to think these are all meeting a specific standard or spec. This also explains why we can by a monitor for $400 less than what is sold here in the US.


Thanks for your reply scribby and I agree with you. I'm searching for a cost effective replacement to avoid that gouging idiot on ebay. I'll post whatever options I find on here and PM you as well.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!
> - Go to Change Screen Resolution > Advanced > Color Management and open Color Managment
> - Go to Advanced tap
> - Press Calibrate Screen
> Ajust gamma, and turn down green and blue, till you are satisfied.


You can read Korean to navigate like this? Unless this is through my pc settings. I'm still waiting on my pc.


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> Yes "Proberly", but you can make it 300% better then stock calibration, just with your eyes!
> - Go to Change Screen Resolution > Advanced > Color Management and open Color Managment
> - Go to Advanced tap
> - Press Calibrate Screen
> Ajust gamma, and turn down green and blue, till you are satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> You can read Korean to navigate like this? Unless this is through my pc settings. I'm still waiting on my pc.
Click to expand...

It's via the PC. These monitors don't have an OSD (well the cheap ones don't).


----------



## Mr Pixel

OK, could use some help. How is the bezel supposed to come off? Maybe I'm blind, but I couldn't find disassembly instructions in the OP. The seam around the bezel is just wide enough to fit a credit card, and the plastic soft enough to be dented by a credit card.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> OK, could use some help. How is the bezel supposed to come off? Maybe I'm blind, but I couldn't find disassembly instructions in the OP. The seam around the bezel is just wide enough to fit a credit card, and the plastic soft enough to be dented by a credit card.


Expand the "Stand Removal" section in this post.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> Expand the "Stand Removal" section in this post.


Ah, OK. Got a few clips off in one corner, but can't seem to get any farther. Do the clips disengage by pressing the front bezel inward or outward?


----------



## scatlm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omekone*
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 21$ its a great deal.


Hey, GREAT FIND!!!! I very much appreciate this..


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Hey, GREAT FIND!!!! I very much appreciate this..


Be careful; I don't know that this has been tried yet. Specifically, I thought I saw that someone mentioned above that the pin configuration might be different (I am hoping that's not the case, because I plan on ordering a couple extra bricks). It's only a matter of time before these cheap things die.


----------



## Emtu

Hey all. Decided to pull the trigger on two Catleaps after about a week of reading threads and comparing choices. Ordered from dcsamsungmall last Friday and they arrived on Tuesday (I'm in Ottawa, Ontario). They were packaged well, wrapped in bubble wrap like the others. Decided going with two would hopefully lessen my chances of having a bad one (so my primary would be perfect). Looks like I was right, one of them is pretty near perfect, a little backlight bleed but you'd have to be looking for it. The other has a stuck green pixel about 1/4 the width from the left, no biggie though since its the secondary/LAN party monitor, as long as I have one good screen I'm happy. The second one also doesn't seem as bright but again you'd need to be looking for it. No problems with the supplied power adapters or DVI cables, though the power bricks get warm it isn't hot enough to be overly concerned in my opinion.

My 8800GT isn't really the best for this resolution in games, did need to lower the settings a little bit for DoD:S and Sins of a Solar Empire (waiting on 680s with higher VRAM for a new system) but games still look spectacular. These are great.


----------



## scatlm

Hey,

Since you can produce deeper blacks, the contrast in games looks much better as a result, correct? Thats one thing I miss about my old Sony CRT... it has beautiful contrast levels and made the graphics "pop" if you-will.


----------



## x0lliex

Got my Catleap (multi w/ HDMI) from green-sum. Once shipped made it from Korea on Friday to delivery on Monday (San Jose). Paid extra for "perfect pixel". Panel has no dead or stuck pixels. Have already removed the old stand in favor of the 3M stand. Screen is glossy and XBOX works fine @ 1080p through HDMI. Took my a while to set the OSD to English from Korean and colors out of the box were set a little weird, but after resetting to default and playing with contrast/brightness settings, looks great. The screen already looks way better than the one it was replacing (Asus VW266H) so I am not going to mess with it too much yet.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Monitor was delivered yesterday to my parents house. Went there on my lunch break and hooked it up to my brother's PC. I was unable to find a bad pixel. Looks like a little backlight bleed in the lower-right corner of the monitor is all. I will post up more info tomorrow night when I actually get time to put it on its mount and check everything out. It's 2C model BTW.


----------



## Lost4468

Has anyone with a 2B model tried overclocking past 120hz at lower resolutions?


----------



## omekone

FYI, dream-seller refunded me 100$ (25%) due to 5x stuck/dead pixels. Not great but for 300$ shipped I can deal with the unperfect screen.


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> but as soon as I saw a bright image on the monitor I noticed it has a brightness gradient. I do a lot of word processing with a mostly white screen and it's starting to annoy the hell out of me. The left half of the screen is significantly brighter than the right half! ...........
> Has anyone else had this problem? I read probably 100 pages of threads and never heard of banding this severe. I'm in the process of trying to get some kind of refund from Red-cap for this


It's sad when you receive a flaw thing but never say die! You have to wait for a while for the instructions how to eliminate that. One russian guy has already fixed the same problem with the backlight on his Catleap and he is going to bring out the solution here. What you'll need just a couple of resistors and one condenser and basic soldering skills.
Be patient and wait for instructions in English. However the original text in Russian you can find here: http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=28:27061-28#896
By the way he claimed that each Catleap has a faulty backlight scheme because of engineering blunders.The irregularity of backlight "by halves" becomes more distinguish on the low levels of brightness. He also said that for the most users it wouldn't be a trouble and they never see the flaw. Nevertheless a few people just by chance will have the displays where the issue will appear in a such extremely way. Ask for the refund from the seller and fix it by yourself.

Sorry for bad English!


----------



## Phenrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Need help, was doing another b to c display transplant to get my b display back to b hardware. Then I noticed half of it was washed out, then I TOOK THE WHOLE THING APART!
> 
> You'll notice my right half of leds have twice as many lit, the ones that are not lit on the left half. Like the signal is inverted to the wrong leds
> 
> 
> There's two sticks of LED's and I switched them around to see if it was a faulty stick but it wasn't it was the signal to the right stick that was wrong for some reason. I'm not good with electrical stuff like that so I'm not sure how to solve this problem. PLEASE HELP!!!!
> More pics for your viewing pleasure...


This looks like the exact problem I have on my monitor; half the LEDs are not lighting on one side. I will take the whole thing apart again (I took it apart to take off the monitor stand) when DASM posts the instructions on the fix for this. Being an electrical engineering major, I have decent soldering skills so a simple circuit adjustment is right up my alley.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> This looks like the exact problem I have on my monitor; half the LEDs are not lighting on one side. I will take the whole thing apart again (I took it apart to take off the monitor stand) when DASM posts the instructions on the fix for this. Being an electrical engineering major, I have decent soldering skills so a simple circuit adjustment is right up my alley.


I'm currently in possession of stryker's board to attempt to fix this issue; it appears it might be related to the issue urliam mentioned, but I'm independently investigating it anyways. Whichever way it gets fixed, if I can get stryker's board going again I'd be more than willing to fix the issue for others who aren't so confident in their soldering skills if they can ship the boards both ways and cover a bit of time for the fix. I'll update when/if I get his going, though.


----------



## Phenrick

I attempted to translate the Russian webpage. It appears these are the instructions:

1) Swap resistor #113 (43k Ohm) with a 100k Ohm resistor.
2) Solder one end of a 100k Ohm resistor to the terminal of transistor #103.
3) Solder a 0.1 - 1 micro-Farad capacitor to the free end of the resistor in step 2.
4) Unsolder diode #704 and put this diode in place of resistor #725 (220 Ohm). White striped cathode will be on the right relative to the picture.
5) Connect with a wire the capacitor from step 3 to the left terminal of the empty diode terminal #704.

This picture explains where each step takes place:



before the mod:


----------



## siberx

Thanks for the translation; much clearer than Google Translate could muster









I'll take a closer look at home and try and decipher what exactly is being changed by this mod before I attempt anything, but you wouldn't make changes like that without knowing how the circuit works so I'm assuming the original poster knows what he's talking about XP


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lost4468*
> 
> Has anyone with a 2B model tried overclocking past 120hz at lower resolutions?


Yes. I've gone up to *125hz at 2560x1440.* I highly recommend against running the monitor any higher than 120hz though. I don't think anyone has hit 120hz in a stable manner. With further testing, even my method of getting to 120hz is iffy. The monitor requires upto 15 minutes of "warmup time" at a lower 111hz-ish refresh rate before it'll allow you to run it at 120hz. Going 120hz right off the bat with my settings, if you just turn your monitor on, gives you a 4% viewable area at the top of your screen. Have to Splashtop in, change down to lower refresh rate, and restart computer. Wait a while. Then slowly move it up, 2hz at a time.


----------



## CrimsonKnight13

I recently bought & received the 2B model, which appears to have tempered glass & no speakers. Max Vsync is 64Hz. Found a cluster of blue stuck pixels that are only noticeable with dark colors in the area. Slight shift to the right with the stand at 1/8". Other than that, its a great monitor.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrimsonKnight13*
> 
> I recently bought & received the 2B model, which appears to have tempered glass & no speakers. Max Vsync is 64Hz. Found a cluster of blue stuck pixels that are only noticeable with dark colors in the area. Slight shift to the right with the stand at 1/8". Other than that, its a great monitor.


2B models can overclock to 100Hz+...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> 2B models can overclock to 100Hz+...


Yup. Just uploading a video of mine running at 124hz to share right now.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yup. Just uploading a video of mine running at 124hz to share right now.


Just making sure you knew since you said 64Hz, lol. (why did you respond to me talking to the other user? Lol, confused the hell out of me)

Who did you order from and when?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Just making sure you knew since you said 64Hz, lol. Who did you order from and when?


I'm not the same person you were responding to above. I'm the guy who wrote the amd/nvidia oc guides for these monitors.









Edit: I was just confirming your statement!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Ok. Here it is. [email protected]:GTX680


----------



## adamkatt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Ok. Here it is. [email protected]:GTX680












Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Ok. Here it is. [email protected]:GTX680


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Ok. Here it is. [email protected]:GTX680


----------



## TheJesus

2560x1440 3D anyone?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yes. I've gone up to *125hz at 2560x1440.* I highly recommend against running the monitor any higher than 120hz though. I don't think anyone has hit 120hz in a stable manner. With further testing, even my method of getting to 120hz is iffy. The monitor requires upto 15 minutes of "warmup time" at a lower 111hz-ish refresh rate before it'll allow you to run it at 120hz. Going 120hz right off the bat with my settings, if you just turn your monitor on, gives you a 4% viewable area at the top of your screen. Have to Splashtop in, change down to lower refresh rate, and restart computer. Wait a while. Then slowly move it up, 2hz at a time.


Hm. I will have to try stepping up in a measured manner like this. Just so I can say I have 120hz capable, 2560x1440 IPS monitor!


----------



## HyperMatrix

[quote name="TheJesus" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2170#post_16894870"]2560x1440 3D anyone? [/quote] Funny you should say that. I'm on my way to go buy the 3D nvidia kit now.


----------



## Sxcerino

That is definitely impressive.

To be honest, I would keep my monitor on 24/7 and buy a solid black cover to "turn it off" so I never have to run into the warm up issue.

120 HZ @ 1440p with IPS, is, a, dream.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> 2560x1440 3D anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you should say that. I'm on my way to go buy the 3D nvidia kit now.
Click to expand...

Please do, this would be outrageous.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> That is definitely impressive.
> To be honest, I would keep my monitor on 24/7 and buy a solid black cover to "turn it off" so I never have to run into the warm up issue.
> 120 HZ @ 1440p with IPS, is, a, dream.


You would probably get "burn-in" (whatever its called on LCD, I think some kind of memory or something).


----------



## CrimsonKnight13

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> 2B models can overclock to 100Hz+...


I mistyped... I meant 2C


----------



## HyperMatrix

[quote name="Sxcerino" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2170#post_16894900"]That is definitely impressive. To be honest, I would keep my monitor on 24/7 and buy a solid black cover to "turn it off" so I never have to run into the warm up issue. 120 HZ @ 1440p with IPS, is, a, dream. [/quote] Just make a backlight kill switch! Lol.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x0lliex*
> 
> Got my Catleap (multi w/ HDMI) from green-sum. Once shipped made it from Korea on Friday to delivery on Monday (San Jose). Paid extra for "perfect pixel". Panel has no dead or stuck pixels. Have already removed the old stand in favor of the 3M stand. Screen is glossy and XBOX works fine @ 1080p through HDMI. Took my a while to set the OSD to English from Korean and colors out of the box were set a little weird, but after resetting to default and playing with contrast/brightness settings, looks great. The screen already looks way better than the one it was replacing (Asus VW266H) so I am not going to mess with it too much yet.


How did you get it to English >_<

Also does it matter what brand I get when it comes to this kind of stuff? http://www.canadacomputers.com/search_result.php?keywords=&category1=Cables+%26+Adapters&category2=Power+Cables%2FCords&category3=&category4=&search=1&ccid=91&path=91&manu=BELKIN&x=34&y=6


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrimsonKnight13*
> 
> I mistyped... I meant 2C


Lol, makes more sense. Was going to be amazed if any of the sellers had some of the 2Bs still laying around.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Funny you should say that. I'm on my way to go buy the 3D nvidia kit now.


Do keep in mind you may get some pretty nasty crosstalk as the response time of the monitor is pretty marginal to be completely swapping frames 120 times a second... make sure you get it from somewhere with a good return policy


----------



## HyperMatrix

[quote name="siberx" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2180#post_16894977"] Do keep in mind you may get some pretty nasty crosstalk as the response time of the monitor is pretty marginal to be completely swapping frames 120 times a second... make sure you get it from somewhere with a good return policy [/quote] Haha. Yeah I thought about that. I buy 20-30k from them a year so they damn well better take it back if it doesn't work.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Do keep in mind you may get some pretty nasty crosstalk as the response time of the monitor is pretty marginal to be completely swapping frames 120 times a second... make sure you get it from somewhere with a good return policy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Haha. Yeah I thought about that. I buy 20-30k from them a year so they damn well better take it back if it doesn't work.
Click to expand...

dude I respect with what you are doing with these amazing monitors. but your quotes are not working you are doing something wrong to where the quotes wont quote lol.

lol it works when i quote it lol....


----------



## HyperMatrix

[quote name="KuuFA" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2180#post_16895056"] dude I respect with what you are doing with these amazing monitors. but your quotes are not working you are doing something wrong to where the quotes wont quote lol. lol it works when i quote it lol....[/quote] It's my damn galaxy nexus. And I can't be bothered to fix it. Though may even ill try using Chrome beta instead.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> dude I respect with what you are doing with these amazing monitors. but your quotes are not working you are doing something wrong to where the quotes wont quote lol. lol it works when i quote it lol....
> 
> 
> 
> It's my damn galaxy nexus. And I can't be bothered to fix it. Though may even ill try using Chrome beta instead.
Click to expand...

lol it just makes your posts hard to read imo. I don't know if I am the only one who is irked by this, but yea it just makes it hard to read. lol.


----------



## HyperMatrix

[quote name="KuuFA" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2180#post_16895088"]lol it just makes your posts hard to read imo. I don't know if I am the only one who is irked by this, but yea it just makes it hard to read. lol.[/quote] testing get with chrome beta now. Nope. Didn't work.


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *KuuFA*
> 
> lol it just makes your posts hard to read imo. I don't know if I am the only one who is irked by this, but yea it just makes it hard to read. lol.
> 
> 
> 
> testing get with chrome beta now. Nope. Didn't work.
Click to expand...

maybe you could like press enter twice to put some space between your quote and post? i ono lol.


----------



## Sxcerino

ur posting in rich text and not plain text haha thats why it's happening

i would like do everything in my power including selling blood to get a 1440p ips 120hz on *SLI*


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> ur posting in rich text and not plain text haha thats why it's happening
> i would like do everything in my power including selling blood to get a 1440p ips 120hz on *SLI*


Or for them to make the PCB's again.

DAT PCB


----------



## HyperMatrix

[quote name="Sxcerino" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2180#post_16895167"]ur posting in rich text and not plain text haha thats why it's happening i would like do everything in my power including selling blood to get a 1440p ips 120hz on *SLI*[/quote] Yeah... It's funny if you try to force a pixel clock over 400mhz in ski, your second card completely shuts down and you have to reboot. I'm guessing this will not be an issue with the gtx 690. But for now 105hz for single (and likely crossfire) radeon cards. 100hz on older or sli nvidia cards. And 124hz on single gtx 680.


----------



## thyroid

I've found an adapter that should work for $24 + shipping. Same model # as the $130 replacement.

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300555688789

The numbers and polarity match.


----------



## antichamp

Just got a catleap.
Shipped to US in 2 days.

1 stuck red pixel in upper left








But otherwise looks AWESOME.

Only other problem now is that my other monitor looks like ****


----------



## Anjexu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> I've found an adapter that should work for $24 + shipping. Same model # as the $130 replacement.
> http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300555688789
> The numbers and polarity match.


Nice find! I'm sure all the folks who have gotten incompatible (with US/CAN sockets) power bricks will be thrilled to buy this, free shipping in the US as with the other seller.

It also seems the "original" seller that we were getting the bricks from has reverted the price back down: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/280673899776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> 2560x1440 3D anyone?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny you should say that. I'm on my way to go buy the 3D nvidia kit now.
Click to expand...

Trine 2. That is all. Arguably the best 3D Vision game to showcase 3D. Well, according to the interwebs.


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anjexu*
> 
> It also seems the "original" seller that we were getting the bricks from has reverted the price back down: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/280673899776?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


heh, probably lost his business. that guy pissed me off like you wouldn't believe but I'm glad he's not gouging anymore.


----------



## siberx

Stryker's 2B DVI board (and cables) and the T-con I bought off Taobao both showed up, and I've got them hooked up to my "2C" panel right now; I'm pleased to say that this configuration works, and allows high refresh rates (running 81Hz right now on my 4870X2). About the timing controller - the one I bought is designed for the LM270WQ*2*-SLA1, which is the CCFL-backlit variant of this monitor. As I suspected, it's capable of driving the Q1 panel just fine, with one caveat; the board is sized/shaped differently (despite being specced pretty much the same as the LVDS T-con for the Q1) and so the mount holes don't line up right with the respective points on the panel itself. It's not a big deal (nothing a bit of tape and metal bending won't work around) but it is there.

So, if anybody's desperate to source a working high-refresh T-con for these panels (you'll still need a DVI board from somewhere), the ones designed for the LM270WQ2-SLA1 *will* work electrically, but don't mount perfectly.


----------



## darrenb123

I think I'll buy one of those power bricks, but I wish there was some love for Canadians. I might see if I can find it locally. Also, it took a little while but I figured out how to get the English OCD.

I have a question about the power bricks though, if yours works and is planning on buying a new one, what is your reasoning? Just curious if it's like a safety precaution or something.


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mydsmbr*
> 
> hey guys,
> can someone please help me.
> I just have one question.
> Does this monitor works with an Macbook Pro Mid2010 (Nvidia GT330M) and a active miniDisplay Port to Dual DVI- Adapter?
> Thank you.


yeah, I bought a converter from monoprice and hooked it to a mac. if you search for my posts back in the thread you will find the exact item I bought.
it works fine but there are some problems with sleep mode. after it goes in sleep mode sometimes it doesn't wake up properly and it shows garbage...
a simple restart of the adapter fixes it.


----------



## x0lliex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> How did you get it to English >_<
> Also does it matter what brand I get when it comes to this kind of stuff? http://www.canadacomputers.com/search_result.php?keywords=&category1=Cables+%26+Adapters&category2=Power+Cables%2FCords&category3=&category4=&search=1&ccid=91&path=91&manu=BELKIN&x=34&y=6


The option to change the language is the second from the bottom.


----------



## SkyPC

What would be a good liquid to clean these monitors?


----------



## Chobbit

Has anyone got one of these to the UK? Did you get charged import fees? And what did you ask for or what price was the item declared at?


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I attempted to translate the Russian webpage. It appears these are the instructions:...


My native language is Russian and I have to say that the original text have many ...how to say... special electrical slang and definitions which I don't understand clearly. If I were an electrical engineer I would clarify that but I've never hold a soldering tool in my hands. In my opinion you have lost some significant details in your translating but maybe I am wrong and they are not significant as I think. So you'd better wait for the DASM's instructions, he is the creator of this mod as you have already guessed.

Despite of the fact that a Catleap has an imperfect LED backlight electric scheme it also means that there is NO PWM controller onboard. No PWM, no eyes strain!








The proof is here: http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=28:27097:0#0 but in Russian again. Google's translator may help, if not just find there the links on the youtube videos - the comparison of PWN implemented in Dell 2711, Asus PA246Q and Catleap Yamakasi(the last movie). For instance, as you can see on the chart a Dell has no PWM factor only when the brightness is on the max level, unlike a Catleap.
Sorry again for my poor English I hope you understand the idea of my message.


----------



## DASM

Yes, where is no PWM in this monitor. But the scheme was done very poorly, is often caused by darkening one side of the screen. Follow this link to fix it http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=28:27061-28#896


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> Has anyone got one of these to the UK? Did you get charged import fees? And what did you ask for or what price was the item declared at?


Got mine from green-sum about a month ago. Was declared at $30. Came really quick and had no problems with customs, no charges at all which was extremely surprising considering the huge box in a box situation. Normally get stung for most things being in the UK so I was probably just lucky.


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DASM*
> 
> Follow this link to fix it http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=28:27061-28#896


Sorry for posting the link on your "baby" before you (on page 216 actually) but Phenrick has already tried to translate it .There might be lost in his translating. Check it out. Or just post here your own English version "How to do". I hardly ever believe that any google translator or any smart but non-Russian speaking person will translate that : "одной лапой на землю другой в воздух"







in correctly way.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Bad news on the 3D front. Picked up Nvidia 3D Vision 2 kit. It doesn't detect it as a 3d ready display. Naturally. Even when I tried using the driver for a 3d alienware monitor, it wouldn't detect it as a compatible display. I'd be able to run some 3d apps but the 3d effect was off by a lot. Which is understandable, considering it's not the right driver. From the 3d effects I was able to see, I didn't notice any issues of ghosting/etc..so it could theoretically work.

Unfortunately, I'm not too familiar with the whole 3d concept. I think it's ******ed how many different versions and crap there are. If anyone here is a 3d guru and can chip in with some info, I'd love to test out the kit some more before I return it to the store.


----------



## hybridtracer

I received two monitors from samsungmall yesterday and both came with 240V adapters. I live in the US so I just assumed they wouldn't work from what I have been reading. I plugged them in for the hell of it and both AC adapters powered the monitor fine. Anyone know if this is supposed to happen, and is there and danger to doing it? Also the monitors arrived to my door 36 hours from when I placed purchase on East Coast US!


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> I received two monitors from samsungmall yesterday and both came with 240V adapters. I live in the US so I just assumed they wouldn't work from what I have been reading. I plugged them in for the hell of it and both AC adapters powered the monitor fine. Anyone know if this is supposed to happen, and is there and danger to doing it? Also the monitors arrived to my door 36 hours from when I placed purchase on East Coast US!


There's always to possibility of frying the device or starting a fire. Not sure the reason why it works for you but you took an awful risk trying it. Maybe someone with more electrical knowledge can chime in?


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> There's always to possibility of frying the device or starting a fire. Not sure the reason why it works for you but you took an awful risk trying it. Maybe someone with more electrical knowledge can chime in?


Well supplying 110 to a 240 wont fry anything, I assumed the transformer would step it down incorrectly but it seems to work. I'm going to check the leads on the multimeter when I get home to make sure it is 24v 5a. Also the sell offered to switch it for me if I send it back for free so anyone worried about it, use samsungmall. Also there are a bunch on ebay that ship from the US for about $25.


----------



## xdemi

This has a trial version - http://www.tridef.com/download/TriDef-3D-latest.html

also ask the forum for some help - the staff or someone should help you cook something up. Just tell them what you're trying to do.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Well supplying 110 to a 240 wont fry anything, I assumed the transformer would step it down incorrectly but it seems to work. I'm going to check the leads on the multimeter when I get home to make sure it is 24v 5a. Also the sell offered to switch it for me if I send it back for free so anyone worried about it, use samsungmall. Also there are a bunch on ebay that ship from the US for about $25.


Please do let us know if you test and see if it does properly work on 110. I also received one of the 240v and didn't want to risk plugging it in yet.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> This has a trial version - http://www.tridef.com/download/TriDef-3D-latest.html
> also ask the forum for some help - the staff or someone should help you cook something up. Just tell them what you're trying to do.


I tried that and also iz3d and the IR emitter is working. Or I can force it to work. But it seems the shutters aren't syncing properly. It's just 2 images overlapped from what I can see. And the glasses add a slight bit of depth to certain items, but everything else is completely out of whack. I'm at a complete loss. 3D isn't my thing. I'll see if I can ask around later I suppose.


----------



## brzyski75

Having a problem with my Catleap. It doesn't seem to want to kick on when I wake my computer up from sleep mode. It worked fine the first week. Anyone else having this problem? Using the bundled cable & HD 5850.


----------



## saiyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Well supplying 110 to a 240 wont fry anything, I assumed the transformer would step it down incorrectly but it seems to work. I'm going to check the leads on the multimeter when I get home to make sure it is 24v 5a. Also the sell offered to switch it for me if I send it back for free so anyone worried about it, use samsungmall. Also there are a bunch on ebay that ship from the US for about $25.


Funny, he didn't even reply to me, it's been two days now







and mine doesn't work at all. Wouldn't it be really expensive to send the adapters back? Might as well just buy the other ones on eBay.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brzyski75*
> 
> Having a problem with my Catleap. It doesn't seem to want to kick on when I wake my computer up from sleep mode. It worked fine the first week. Anyone else having this problem? Using the bundled cable & HD 5850.


I think that might be an ATI driver issue and not with the monitor itself? Not 100% sure on this but some 79xx owners are reporting similar issues. I am uncertain if this is present in the 58xx series as well.


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saiyr*
> 
> Funny, he didn't even reply to me, it's been two days now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and mine doesn't work at all. Wouldn't it be really expensive to send the adapters back? Might as well just buy the other ones on eBay.


I'm not sure on what the price would be. But yea the ones on ebay are not a bad option. If you have any soldering knowledge, you can buy any 24v 5a adapter and swap the connectors. There is one on amazon for $16. Super super easy to do for basically anyone who has access to a soldering iron. You could even do it more crudely by using wire twist connectors which anyone can do.


----------



## tianh

Hey guys,

Thought I'd post here even though I have a crossover monitor. I just got it today and plugged it and and everything (text etc) is super blurry. I'm running it at the highest resolution too 2560 by 1440. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tianh*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Thought I'd post here even though I have a crossover monitor. I just got it today and plugged it and and everything (text etc) is super blurry. I'm running it at the highest resolution too 2560 by 1440. Any ideas what I'm doing wrong?


Sounds like an issue with the OS (ClearType) or your video card settings. Are you sure the video card isn't scaling it for some reason?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Check the crossover club page.

Sent from my 4s using Tapatalk


----------



## Hydros

You gotta love these high res 16:9 monitors.


----------



## kevinsbane

You gotta love high res monitors.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You gotta love high res monitors.


Only high res 16 9 monitors are worth the money.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You gotta love high res monitors.
> 
> 
> 
> Only high res 16 9 monitors are worth the money.
Click to expand...

What? That doesn't even make sense

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> Only high res 16 9 monitors are worth the money.


And only poor people complain about the cost of *premium* (ie 16:10) computer parts.

/facetiousness

Get out of this thread if all you want to talk about is the aspect ratio. That's not why this monitor is popular.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Get out of this thread if all you want to talk about is the aspect ratio. That's not why this monitor is popular.


You know nothing about that. I think 16:9 is the main reason why these monitors are so popular.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> You know nothing about that. I think 16:9 is the main reason why these moniors are so popular.


Ok.


----------



## tianh

plugged in the dvi cable that came supplied and all is working now.


----------



## Ralos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> You know nothing about that. I think 16:9 is the main reason why these monitors are so popular.


I think is PRICE.


----------



## Miagi100

tempered glass vs non tempered?


----------



## drka0tic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> 16:9 is a key factor why they are so cheap.


I don't know of any 27" monitors with a 2560x1600 resolution.


----------



## adridu59

What's the big deal about overclocking a monitor ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> What's the big deal about overclocking a monitor ?


Look at your URL!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> What's the big deal about overclocking a monitor ?


Because you can take it to 120Hz, making your games look like butter. Also, there isn't a single 2560x1440 monitor that I've ever seen on the consumer market that can do 120Hz.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drka0tic*
> 
> I don't know of any 27" monitors with a 2560x1600 resolution.


so?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> so?


Meaning there is no 16:10 in 27" form.


----------



## adridu59

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Look at your URL!


Wut ?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Because you can take it to 120Hz, making your games look like butter. Also, there isn't a single 2560x1440 monitor that I've ever seen on the consumer market that can do 120Hz.


Oh I see it now. I didn't get why so much hype on these monitors.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> I think that might be an ATI driver issue and not with the monitor itself? Not 100% sure on this but some 79xx owners are reporting similar issues. I am uncertain if this is present in the 58xx series as well.


I have two Catleaps hooked up to a single 7970 (at least until my other gets back from RMA from MSI) and am not having that problem. Windows 7 64 Bit, 12.3 drivers.

Anyway I finally got my dual-stand in and hooked up, as well as the active mini-dsp to dual-dvi adapter. Thankfully, I didn't flub anything up when taking off the back of the Catleap to get to the Vesa mounts (what a stupid design, btw). In any case, Scribby's instructions were perfect, and even I managed to get them apart and back together without a problem.

I can also confirm that this mini DP to Dual DVI adapter works just fine; I was a little concerned because the price was a good deal cheaper than some of the others I saw linked.

Here's a picture of my dual monitor setup. I apologize that I couldn't back up any further because there's a wall behind me.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adridu59*
> 
> Wut ?


He's referring to the fact that you're on a website *called* overclock.net - and you're asking why people are overclocking something...


----------



## Phenrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I attempted to translate the Russian webpage. It appears these are the instructions:
> 1) Swap resistor #113 (43k Ohm) with a 100k Ohm resistor.
> 2) Solder one end of a 100k Ohm resistor to the terminal of transistor #103.
> 3) Solder a 0.1 - 1 micro-Farad capacitor to the free end of the resistor in step 2.
> 4) Unsolder diode #704 and put this diode in place of resistor #725 (220 Ohm). White striped cathode will be on the right relative to the picture.
> 5) Connect with a wire the capacitor from step 3 to the left terminal of the empty diode terminal #704.
> This picture explains where each step takes place:
> 
> before the mod:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DASM*
> 
> Yes, where is no PWM in this monitor. But the scheme was done very poorly, is often caused by darkening one side of the screen. Follow this link to fix it http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=28:27061-28#896


Like Urliam said, I am not confident that I translated the instructions correctly. If you can see that I got this right, then I will open the monitor up sometime this weekend and perform the modifications.


----------



## Lost4468

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You gotta love high res monitors.
> 
> 
> 
> Only high res 16 9 monitors are worth the money.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What? That doesn't even make sense
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

This guy has made 30 threads in the last year telling people that 16:10 is crap and 16:9 is the best, 30 THREADS IN THE LAST YEAR.


----------



## odditory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lost4468*
> 
> This guy has made 30 threads in the last year telling people that 16:10 is crap and 16:9 is the best, 30 THREADS IN THE LAST YEAR.


Yeah from the looks of it probably just a guy struggling with biochemical issues of the brain


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odditory*
> 
> Yeah from the looks of it probably just a guy struggling with biochemical issues of the brain


No kidding...I haven't heard a single person mension the 16:9 ratio as a positive anywhere on the threads. It's a nice feature as it'll better scale with 1080p video content, but it also means a slightly lower (and by lower I mean a whole whopping 2.8%) PPI.

And has anyone here hit 120hz yet? I haven't heard too many people respond with their results on the 2B boards.


----------



## Grizzlymann

Just stumbled upon these monitors. Would someone mind summarizing or pointing me in the direct of some answers?


Wondering what the chances of getting the 2B monitors are?
What to look for if they are still being made? Seems like multi-input from what I've gathered.
Are dead / stuck / bright pixels a big concern?
Are there reputable sellers on Ebay that people have had good experiences with?
What is it like getting one of these through US Customs?


----------



## jacs

Just got my monitor.

Looking into OCing it but not sure what to look for. How does one tell if a monitor is a 2B?

Also when trying to OC it the is there a good set of guidelines. All I see (AMD GPU 6970) is that you use the program that is linked initially and change it and then that effects the refresh?

Is it possible to damage the monitor doing this? How would I know when it doesn't accept a value? (CPU will crash / not boot when OCed to high)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grizzlymann*
> 
> Just stumbled upon these monitors. Would someone mind summarizing or pointing me in the direct of some answers?
> 
> Wondering what the chances of getting the 2B monitors are?


Basically 0.
Quote:


> [*]
> [*] What to look for if they are still being made? Seems like multi-input from what I've gathered.


Depends on what you want from them...
Quote:


> [*]
> [*] Are dead / stuck / bright pixels a big concern?


Dead pixels aren't that big of an issue; stuck and bright pixels are more noticeable and can be a deal breaker. There is a "pixel perfect" garuntee that I personally think is a scam; just a way to get more money from people.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grizzlymann*
> 
> Just stumbled upon these monitors. Would someone mind summarizing or pointing me in the direct of some answers?
> 
> 
> Wondering what the chances of getting the 2B monitors are?
> What to look for if they are still being made? Seems like multi-input from what I've gathered.
> Are dead / stuck / bright pixels a big concern?
> Are there reputable sellers on Ebay that people have had good experiences with?
> What is it like getting one of these through US Customs?


Greetings from Atlantis! Man I have a lot of OP updating to do when I get stateside. Real quick 2B possible with multi but really rare. Otherwise no dice as stated above.

Pixels aren't really an issue. Some have 1-2 but seem to be many ore perfect pixel panels.

All eBay sellers have been used and all are pretty much the same. Shipping options are different as well as packing. Going with lowest price for now still seems to be ok.

No issues with us customs as we have free trade with skorea.

Cheers now back to the beach!


----------



## Miagi100

Looking to order tonight, please can anyone acknowledge my post and give me advice on tempered vs non tempered?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> Looking to order tonight, please can anyone acknowledge my post and give me advice on tempered vs non tempered?


Depends on whether you want a shiny, flush surface for a little more, or something that looks a little more "traditional" and costs a little less.

The tempered glass version is vulnerable to having dust trapped beneath the glass. It also seems a little more reflective than the glossy one. The tempered glass can be taken off fairly easily for cleaning behind the glass.

IMO, the tempered glass one looks very slick.


----------



## siberx

The glass version mostly exists for scenarios where things could potentially hit and break the screen; public settings, internet cafes, rowdy siblings, etc... otherwise, it doesn't really offer much over the (typically cheaper) glass-free version.


----------



## Grizzlymann

Thanks for the info. If I just get the basic monitor (DVI-D only) and you guys get a batch of the 2B boards one day, would I be able to do the swap?


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Meaning there is no 16:10 in 27" form.


There were plenty of them (27" 16:10 1920x1200) available but they hardly sell. Now they have been phased out because they are not competitive.

This is basically the case with all 16:10 monitors. They are not competitive. For that reason it is just a matter of time before they totally disappear from the market.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> There were plenty of them (27" 16:10 1920x1200) available but they hardly sell. Now they have been phased out because they are not competitive.
> This is basically the case with all 16:10 monitors. They are not competitive.


Well, if I had the choice between a 27" or 24" 1920x1200 monitor (with the 24" probably coming out cheaper, since they usually do) I'd definitely take the 24" - in fact my old monitor was 22" 1920x1200, and I chose that over 24" monitors at the same resolution









So yeah - no wonder nobody was buying those XD


----------



## Hydros

The Catleaps are really nice.


----------



## saiyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> I'm not sure on what the price would be. But yea the ones on ebay are not a bad option. If you have any soldering knowledge, you can buy any 24v 5a adapter and swap the connectors. There is one on amazon for $16. Super super easy to do for basically anyone who has access to a soldering iron. You could even do it more crudely by using wire twist connectors which anyone can do.


Yeah, that's actually the first solution I came to. Wish I had waited an extra day so I didn't have to try that though, it's been almost a decade since I soldered anything. Someone mentioned step up transformers elsewhere as a solution, too. But I guess you have to have faith in the adapter they shipped for that


----------



## murdochs crimes

*Using a laptop's HDMI or VGA or USB outputs to connect to the Yamakasi's DVI-D Dual Link connector*

Has anyone successfully achieved this yet?

I've read well over 200 posts and searched both of Overclock's Korean Monitor threads but haven't found a definitive answer.

I have an Asus G74 with a Nvidia GTX 560M GPU.

The Catflap powers up OK, with the power LED going from steady red to green. It then continually blinks green on & off ( I assume this is an error code meaning it's not connected to the source properly).

The NVidia Control Panel knows it's connected to some sort of DVI-D Dual Link but other than that wont interact.

I get no picture or other signs of life other than a very very faint initial screen flash as it goes to the green LED.

I've tried a simple passive HDMI to DVI-DL adapter without any luck.

There doesn't seem to be any *proven* active HDMI to DVI-D Dual Link converters.

Ditto with VGA to DVI-D Dual Link converters.

But there are some USB to DVI-D Dual Link converters including as below.

Support for screen resolution up to 2048 x 1152
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=ITV-101&cat=CCD

and a large number of offerings on eBay.

Anyone tried any of these?

Or *ACTUALLY* got their Catflap working off a laptop using HDMI or VGA or USB?

*BTW, from what I can tell, the Catflap's power LED error codes are:*

*Steady Red LED* = Power connected & OK: monitor on Standby

*Flashing Red LED* = Problem with Power Supply - should read 24V6 at the PSU cable connector pins without a load.

*Steady Green LED* = Monitor on & connected to source (computer, GPU, etc) OK.

*Flashing Green LED* = Monitor on, but not connected OK; there is a problem.

_Edited for clarity_


----------



## siberx

Well, that's a pretty tough proposition. We'll start with the easy ones:

-HDMI is definitely out, as it's pretty much like a single-link DVI. You're not going to get enough bandwidth out of the port.
-It would be technically possible to produce a VGA converter capable of doing this, but it's highly unlikely that the RAMDACs in your system are good enough to drive it. Additionally, nobody bothers making such a thing (because the analog hardware required in the converter to interpret a resolution that high is very expensive, and it's such a niche market as to basically not exist)
-USB is a possibility, with the caveat that that's a *lot* of pixels to be driving over the 480mbps allotted, even compressed. If you *do* find a USB video card that supports such a high resolution, image quality (due to compression) or framerate will suffer.

So... you don't have a lot of good options, unfortunately. Is a docking station available for your notebook that might have a proper dual-link DVI out?


----------



## x0lliex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Dead pixels aren't that big of an issue; stuck and bright pixels are more noticeable and can be a deal breaker. There is a "pixel perfect" garuntee that I personally think is a scam; just a way to get more money from people.


I don't think the "pixel perfect" guarantee is a scam, of course I am biased because I bought one. The one I received is perfect, no dead or stuck pixels, there is also a sticker on the box and with the limited English on the sticker, I assume it is the manufacturer marking that it is a perfect pixel monitor. Rightly or wrongly, this gives me piece of mind that I didn't pay extra for nothing.

If anyone can read Korean, see the sticker in the picture.


----------



## ae-?a

interesting how it has the Chinese character:

無

on the sticker (meaning none). Didn't think Korean used Chinese symbols at all anymore.


----------



## Loyrl

Just got mine, took 3 days to get to my doorstep in Seattle area. No bright pixels or dead pixels.

The stand seems fine, doesn't wabble isn't lopsided.


----------



## eternal7trance

Mine just showed as shipped. I hope it comes in with no dead pixels or dust in the panel.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *x0lliex*
> 
> I don't think the "pixel perfect" guarantee is a scam, of course I am biased because I bought one. The one I received is perfect, no dead or stuck pixels, there is also a sticker on the box and with the limited English on the sticker, I assume it is the manufacturer marking that it is a perfect pixel monitor. Rightly or wrongly, this gives me piece of mind that I didn't pay extra for nothing.
> If anyone can read Korean, see the sticker in the picture.


That would be a wrong assumption that you paid extra and got something tangible in return. Would you have gotten the _exact same panel_ if you had not gotten the perfect pixel garuntee? Quite possibly.

The reason why I think it is a scam lies along these lines --> Manufacturer has 1000 monitors, of which 10% of them have some sort of stuck, dead or hot pixel. What does the manufacturer do? Sell them all for $100 each. Each $100 000. One dude has a bright idea! Sell the "perfect" ones as "perfect pixel" monitors for more! Let's say 100 people bought the perfect pixel ones for $200. Everyone else buys the normal ones. Manufacturer, with the _same stock_ has now made $110 000, and all they needed to do was to brand them slightly differently. The base models have now decreased in value, but they still sell them at the same price. The perfect pixel ones they've charge a premium for, when people would ordinarily only have a 10% chance of getting some sort of defect anyways.

But what happens when people catch on? Oh, but you need the Pixel Perfect one 'cause everyone else is getting it, and if everyone gets it, then the chances of you getting a defect is higher since all the good ones were taken! So everyone buys the perfect pixel version. The manufacturer just sends out what they made, defects and all. Some of the people with bad monitors complain, they refund some money and take some losses in returns. Meanwhile, they've increased their revenue by 90% (and profit by FAR more) and _they haven't improved anything as far as the quality of the monitors are concerned_. They've managed to charge $200 for ALL of the good ones, and the bad ones they've managed to sell for the base price. And everyone that got a good monitor _thinks_ they got their money's worth, when in fact, all that has happened is that the manufacturer has made a ton more money off of basically nothing.

In this particular case, it's an even bigger scam; _there's no conceivable way we'll return these monitors._ People aren't going to return defective "perfect pixel" monitors, which is the worst case scenario for the manufacturer. Now, the worst case scenario is that people demand a refund for their perfect pixel extra cost, and so they gladly return the money. They've managed to charge a premium to those willing to pay it, and those who've paid it don't really get any benefit from having paid it at all.

In the end, once this reaches equilibrium, only the manufacturer benefits from this perfect pixel policy. Everyone who bought the perfect pixel ones are happy because they got what they wanted, except they paid more for what they might have gotten without paying for it. The people who have to buy the non-perfect ones aren't happy because they, through no fault of their own, have been screwed by people who are willing to pay more (and thus the incentive to pay more increases in a positive feedback loop) and the manufacturer is ecstatic because they made a bunch of money from essentially nothing.

Basically,
1. if everyone played the pixel lottery, then everyone would have had a 90% chance of a perfect panel. The manufacturer makes normal profits.
2. If everyone payed for the perfect pixel garuntee, then everyone would have a 90% chance of a perfect panel. The manufacturer profits big time.
3. If only a small set of people pay for a perfect pixel garuntee, then those small number of people get a benefit, and everyone else is screwed. The manufacturer profits more than the base case.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I attempted to translate the Russian webpage. It appears these are the instructions:
> 1) Swap resistor #113 (43k Ohm) with a 100k Ohm resistor.
> 2) Solder one end of a 100k Ohm resistor to the terminal of transistor #103.
> 3) Solder a 0.1 - 1 micro-Farad capacitor to the free end of the resistor in step 2.
> 4) Unsolder diode #704 and put this diode in place of resistor #725 (220 Ohm). White striped cathode will be on the right relative to the picture.
> 5) Connect with a wire the capacitor from step 3 to the left terminal of the empty diode terminal #704.


I took a closer look at the area shown in the picture on the boards I have; it would appear that the board photographed is a 2C variant, or it at least has a backlight driver section that matches my 2C and does *not* match the 2B board (the layouts are slightly different).

Can anybody reporting backlight unevenness list whether they have a 2C or 2B variant please?


----------



## tcboy88

I just get my 2B catleap SE (without speaker) today, I am located in Busan Korea so i get it for around 265,000 krw which is around 250 usd
It is not a steal, it is a rob!

I am in my lab now and I try it with my lab PC(just i3 and gt430m) and i got it to 97hz
just using the nvidia control panel custom resolution, as easy as a pie
When i get home later i will try it with my 2600k and 560ti
hopefully can boost pass 100hz

Anyway, my catleap is also leaning to the right side
i rmb i saw some1 posted the same, he use some plastic waste cup to stack up and hold the monitor from leaning to the right
any1 else the same? how to solve this in a better way beside buying a vesa mount?


for reference, this is my 2B serial number, u may also note that the orange color sticker on the top, it say zero defect version, i got it for normal price instead of premium price!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Hey guys. I posted a new video on youtube that offers further proof to the 124hz claim. The interesting thing I found, though, is that the actual vertical refresh rate is unstable at 32 bit colour because of the heavy bandwidth requirement. I did some calculations on a website as well that, well, anyway...the video will explain. So what I had to do was create a more stable 124hz environment, so that with the reduced vertical refresh limit @32 bit colour, would still put out 119-121hz, which is exactly what a standard 120hz monitor would display at something like 1080p!

Cheers.

Edit: And yes, as usual, I'm video taping my sessions using my iPad. So it's still 1080p...but not the greatest 1080p. And it's super shaky. I gotta find a better way to do this.


----------



## Krahe

mmm they look great... would a gtx580 with 1596mb be enough to utilise its goodness?


----------



## Grizzlymann

You wouldn't happen to have purchased yours from an online seller would you? Did you have to search around their store for a 2B or is that just what they're selling?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> mmm they look great... would a gtx580 with 1596mb be enough to utilise its goodness?


Well, 1440p is double the resolution of 1080p. So it'll be a lot more taxing on your system. Especially if you use anti-aliasing. A 580 is a decent card, for sure, but the 1.5gb and general power of the card means you can play on a single card, but will have to use medium quality settings, with probably no anti-aliasing. This is all, of course, depending on what framerate you're looking for. If you're aiming for 30 frames a second...you're golden. 60 frames, with medium settings. Above that...no anti-aliasing, and all medium settings should roughly do it.


----------



## tcboy88

previously i went to a pc mall in Busan Korea, I almost bought the catleap, I even prepared the cash
I beg the seller to let me check the monitor, at first the dont allow, but finally he agreed at a cost of extra 10usd
But after checking 3 monitors, all of the have defects (1st dust, 2nd minor scratch, 3rd dead pixel)
He wouldn't allow me to check anymore, so finally there is no deal.

Now i am buying in the korea most popular online market aka Gmarket
it cost around 260,000 won for 1
And I am so lucky to get a 2B version + zero defect version at a steal price
(normal zero defect version would cost 330,000 and above)


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> previously i went to a pc mall in Busan Korea, I almost bought the catleap, I even prepared the cash
> I beg the seller to let me check the monitor, at first the dont allow, but finally he agreed at a cost of extra 10usd
> But after checking 3 monitors, all of the have defects (1st dust, 2nd minor scratch, 3rd dead pixel)
> He wouldn't allow me to check anymore, so finally there is no deal.
> Now i am buying in the korea most popular online market aka Gmarket
> it cost around 260,000 won for 1
> And I am so lucky to get a 2B version + zero defect version at a steal price
> (normal zero defect version would cost 330,000 and above)


Broski we already figured out how incredibly easy it is to take off the tempered glass or just lift the side of it to blow in it with a can of air and remove dust!! They use a sticky glue strip around the monitor. Just heat up a side with a hair dryer, and pry it using a plastic or wooden tool. Really really easy! So if you can find a perfect monitor with just dust...no worries!


----------



## Krahe

Thx for the answers Hyper, might have to wait till I can afford to update the 580.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krahe*
> 
> Thx for the answers Hyper, might have to wait till I can afford to update the 580.


Stay tuned though...I heard from a little birdie that there may be the possibility of the production of additional 2b OC monitors.


----------



## tcboy88

the dust was inside the panel, not the tempered glass version
maybe it is very hard for normal guy like me to remove the panel and blow in compress air...

anyway, do ur catleap lean to the right side?

why the nvidia OC guide in the 1st post is so long and complex? (powerstrip, driver blah blah)
cant we just OC with nvidia control panel custom resolution?
What is the difference between the simple and the complex step?


----------



## DASM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> Like Urliam said, I am not confident that I translated the instructions correctly. If you can see that I got this right, then I will open the monitor up sometime this weekend and perform the modifications.


All OK, you are correct, I can help if you have any questions


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> the dust was inside the panel, not the tempered glass version
> maybe it is very hard for normal guy like me to remove the panel and blow in compress air...
> anyway, do ur catleap lean to the right side?
> why the nvidia OC guide in the 1st post is so long and complex? (powerstrip, driver blah blah)
> cant we just OC with nvidia control panel custom resolution?
> What is the difference between the simple and the complex step?


Many applications will revert back to 60hz when you run them if you don't do the method I posted. So you'll have 120hz on your desktop, but you launch a game and it's back to 60hz. And no I don't have any lean on my monitor. People can try any method they like, of course. This method was just the one I found to be the most effective.


----------



## niareme

Hi all, I just received a Catleap Q270 Multi from green-sum today but I am totally bummed right now because it was DOA. Here's the story:

I plugged it in and pressed the power button and there was nothing on the screen, and the light in the bottom right did not show anything at all (no red light or green light, nothing).

Sent an e-mail to green-sum who told me to check if the power adapter was working (I have one of the Welltronics 110-240V adapters). Plugged it in, yes the green light turns on. Took a multimeter, yes it is supplying 24V.

But the monitor does not seem to be getting any power at all?

green-sum said the monitor is probably defective and that I have to send it back to Korea for testing, and then once they verify that it is defective they will exchange a new one + reimburse me for the shipping cost... which would be fine and dandy except that the Canada Post website estimates a shipping cost of $460 (!) CAD. That's more than what I paid to get the monitor in the first place.

Anyway, I let green-sum know about the quote and they are also trying to find alternative shipping now... They said that it is the first defective return from Canada so they will have to do some research and get back to me.

So I'm here to ask, *what else can I do to try and trouble-shoot the problem*? Somebody please tell me that there's an extra magical button somewhere that I forgot to press to make the monitor work? ...Or does anybody know of *any cheap shipping methods for a large parcel from Canada to South Korea?* (And by cheap, I mean comparable to what I've read here about shipping from the US to Korea, ~100-130 USD)


----------



## tcboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Many applications will revert back to 60hz when you run them if you don't do the method I posted. So you'll have 120hz on your desktop, but you launch a game and it's back to 60hz. And no I don't have any lean on my monitor. People can try any method they like, of course. This method was just the one I found to be the most effective.


Oic, thanks for the information!


----------



## ispano

I laughed so hard with your end statement to ppl about "reading up". Hyper keep up the good work. I'd be frustrated too if the comments in the video were what ppl were stating online.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niareme*
> 
> Hi all, I just received a Catleap Q270 Multi from green-sum today but I am totally bummed right now because it was DOA. Here's the story:
> I plugged it in and pressed the power button and there was nothing on the screen, and the light in the bottom right did not show anything at all (no red light or green light, nothing).
> Sent an e-mail to green-sum who told me to check if the power adapter was working (I have one of the Welltronics 110-240V adapters). Plugged it in, yes the green light turns on. Took a multimeter, yes it is supplying 24V.
> But the monitor does not seem to be getting any power at all?
> green-sum said the monitor is probably defective and that I have to send it back to Korea for testing, and then once they verify that it is defective they will exchange a new one + reimburse me for the shipping cost... which would be fine and dandy except that the Canada Post website estimates a shipping cost of $460 (!) CAD. That's more than what I paid to get the monitor in the first place.
> Anyway, I let green-sum know about the quote and they are also trying to find alternative shipping now... They said that it is the first defective return from Canada so they will have to do some research and get back to me.
> So I'm here to ask, *what else can I do to try and trouble-shoot the problem*? Somebody please tell me that there's an extra magical button somewhere that I forgot to press to make the monitor work? ...Or does anybody know of *any cheap shipping methods for a large parcel from Canada to South Korea?* (And by cheap, I mean comparable to what I've read here about shipping from the US to Korea, ~100-130 USD)


A lot of people were saying the pcb connectors were becoming disconnected during shipping. Try opening up the monitor and unplugging/replugging all ables on the board and making sure they're connected snugly. I'd definitely try that before considering sending the monitor back. Best of luck and let us know how it goes!

Edit: Also, I'd check DHL and TNT for any shipments to Korea. I have friends who ship internationally to family/etc and value is an issue, and I don't know the prices but these are the 2 main ones I hear that they use so there may be something to that.


----------



## omyg

best offers for yamakasi right now from this guy (except, may be, first model) :
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Monitors-Projectors-/3694/i.html?gbr=1&_ssn=k-trend2011

357,0 = YAMAKASI CatLeap Q270 SE (without glass, without speakers)
361,5 = YAMAKASI CatLeap Q270 (without glass, with speakers)
380,5 = YAMAKASI CatLeap Q270 SE (with glass, without speakers)
381,0 = YAMAKASI CatLeap Q270 (with glass, with speakers)
461,5 = YAMAKASI CatLeap Q270 MULTI (with glass, with speakers, with hdmi)


----------



## 4orty6ix

Just wanted to say thankyou to the guys who started this thread.

Bought a CATLEAP Q270 SE from dcsamsungmall on tuesday, and it arrive today. I live in france and dcsamsungmall included an invoice to the front as i requested for $80, so far no customs request, but i expect, as was delivered via FedEx it might come under separate cover.

Anyway, one very happy customer so far. Can't find any dead or stuck pixels, and the picture is amazing. Will be waiting to see how the garanteed 100hz comes off as ill buy another 2 if it does.

46


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4orty6ix*
> 
> Just wanted to say thankyou to the guys who started this thread.
> Bought a CATLEAP Q270 SE from dcsamsungmall on tuesday, and it arrive today. I live in france and dcsamsungmall included an invoice to the front as i requested for $80, so far no customs request, but i expect, as was delivered via FedEx it might come under separate cover.
> Anyway, one very happy customer so far. Can't find any dead or stuck pixels, and the picture is amazing. Will be waiting to see how the garanteed 100hz comes off as ill buy another 2 if it does.
> 46


Sorry, what do you mean by "Guaranteed 100hz?" Over 67hz requires a 2b panel which I've only heard of being delivered twice in the past 3 weeks. Otherwise there's no OC available.







But grats on getting a beautiful monitor and keep an eye on this thread for info about possible OC boards that you can swap yours out with!


----------



## Qbex

Hi Guys, just registered to let you know.
Ordered my Catleap from Green-Sum on 26.03, delivered to Perth Australia on 04.04 way ahead of time (as stated extra 2 weeks for pixel perfect). Mine is "SE" pixel perfect model , no glass , no speakers, serial no 2A !
Only connected to test it as waiting for my new "proper" v.card. No dead pixels , nice uniformity, crappy wonky stand leaning to right. Will get proper Vesa mount later on.
Has anyone had 2A series and tried overclocking one?


----------



## niareme

Thanks for the suggestion. As soon as I lifted up the panel, I smelled a faint burnt plastic smell.

I took the metal cover off to take a look at the PCB and see if there was anything fried... everything looked ok, so I got a little closer to sniff around and concluded that there HAD to be something burnt.

Took the PCB out, flipped it over, and two of the ICs are melted (U300 and U302... haven't looked closely to see if any others are gone). As more proof that something burned, I looked back at the metal plate which was under the PCB and there are two big brown spots where those ICs were in contact with.

So there's my problem, parts of this board fried. DId it happen under my care or someone else's, I can't say for sure. This monitor was supposed to be new from green-sum (I did not ask for perfect pixel check so it should not have been opened) and I did not notice anything strange when I plugged it in the first time today - just that it would not turn on.

Now I really don't know what to do. I know what the issue is (or maybe whatever fried the board also damaged the panel too, I don't know, hopefully not?) and it would be a lot easier and cheaper if it was possible to just send the PCB back and get a replacement for it... but what do I say to green-sum? I'm pretty sure I voided the warranty by opening it up. -_-"

Help. I feel screwed out of $450.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niareme*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. As soon as I lifted up the panel, I smelled a faint burnt plastic smell.
> I took the metal cover off to take a look at the PCB and see if there was anything fried... everything looked ok, so I got a little closer to sniff around and concluded that there HAD to be something burnt.
> Took the PCB out, flipped it over, and two of the ICs are melted (U300 and U302... haven't looked closely to see if any others are gone). As more proof that something burned, I looked back at the metal plate which was under the PCB and there are two big brown spots where those ICs were in contact with.
> So there's my problem, parts of this board fried. DId it happen under my care or someone else's, I can't say for sure. This monitor was supposed to be new from green-sum (I did not ask for perfect pixel check so it should not have been opened) and I did not notice anything strange when I plugged it in the first time today - just that it would not turn on.
> Now I really don't know what to do. I know what the issue is (or maybe whatever fried the board also damaged the panel too, I don't know, hopefully not?) and it would be a lot easier and cheaper if it was possible to just send the PCB back and get a replacement for it... but what do I say to green-sum? I'm pretty sure I voided the warranty by opening it up. -_-"
> Help. I feel screwed out of $450.


Man I feel for you. Honestly, I'd close it back up and send it back anyway. $450 is nothing to sneeze at, and you did what you did in good faith.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbex*
> 
> Hi Guys, just registered to let you know.
> Ordered my Catleap from Green-Sum on 26.03, delivered to Perth Australia on 04.04 way ahead of time (as stated extra 2 weeks for pixel perfect). Mine is "SE" pixel perfect model , no glass , no speakers, serial no 2A !
> Only connected to test it as waiting for my new "proper" v.card. No dead pixels , nice uniformity, crappy wonky stand leaning to right. Will get proper Vesa mount later on.
> Has anyone had 2A series and tried overclocking one?


Yours is the first 2A I have heard of, to be honest (or at least that I remember).


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbex*
> 
> Hi Guys, just registered to let you know.
> Ordered my Catleap from Green-Sum on 26.03, delivered to Perth Australia on 04.04 way ahead of time (as stated extra 2 weeks for pixel perfect). Mine is "SE" pixel perfect model , no glass , no speakers, serial no 2A !
> Only connected to test it as waiting for my new "proper" v.card. No dead pixels , nice uniformity, crappy wonky stand leaning to right. Will get proper Vesa mount later on.
> Has anyone had 2A series and tried overclocking one?


That's neat! You can try OC'ing to see what happens, or opening and comparing your PCB to pictures of the B and C variants to see if it looks like one of them, or if it's different alltogether. Please let us know!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niareme*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. As soon as I lifted up the panel, I smelled a faint burnt plastic smell.
> I took the metal cover off to take a look at the PCB and see if there was anything fried... everything looked ok, so I got a little closer to sniff around and concluded that there HAD to be something burnt.
> Took the PCB out, flipped it over, and two of the ICs are melted (U300 and U302... haven't looked closely to see if any others are gone). As more proof that something burned, I looked back at the metal plate which was under the PCB and there are two big brown spots where those ICs were in contact with.
> So there's my problem, parts of this board fried. DId it happen under my care or someone else's, I can't say for sure. This monitor was supposed to be new from green-sum (I did not ask for perfect pixel check so it should not have been opened) and I did not notice anything strange when I plugged it in the first time today - just that it would not turn on.
> Now I really don't know what to do. I know what the issue is (or maybe whatever fried the board also damaged the panel too, I don't know, hopefully not?) and it would be a lot easier and cheaper if it was possible to just send the PCB back and get a replacement for it... but what do I say to green-sum? I'm pretty sure I voided the warranty by opening it up. -_-"
> Help. I feel screwed out of $450.


Well a few things.

1) Is it obvious that it has been opened up? If not, I'd just have them swap it.
2) Is it possible to just replace the melted components? That's an option but I'd stay away from it because if replacing them doesn't fix it, then you're definitely out of warranty.

Also I'd say that he'd probably need the entire monitor as otherwise it'd be clear that the monitor had been opened and the manufacturer will not take it back, and also...the manufacturer generally wants the whole unit back to figure out why this happened to the monitor in the first place. Hope they will take care of the issue for you without too many hassles!


----------



## tcboy88

while I can OC to 97hz using nvidia control panel
whenever I am viewing a screen with alot of white color, my monitor start to buzzing/humming sound
I have tried 65 80 85 90 95 97 hz
only at 60hz it is not making sound

any1 else Oc-er having the same issue?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> while I can OC to 97hz using nvidia control panel
> whenever I am viewing a screen with alot of white color, my monitor start to buzzing/humming sound
> I have tried 65 80 85 90 95 97 hz
> only at 60hz it is not making sound
> any1 else Oc-er having the same issue?


I had this issue with my 42 LG HDTV 240Hz, with the white color also. I thought it was normal.


----------



## tcboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I had this issue with my 42 LG HDTV 240Hz, with the white color also. I thought it was normal.


oh yea, thanks for your information
after some simple google I found that it is really normal on TV or monitor that make buzzing sound when white color

BUT at 60hz, my monitor dont make any sound at all @ white color screen
only at higher rate, ie 65-90hz, it will make sound

anyway it is not a big deal to me so just forget it lol


----------



## thyroid

Hey all, I'm just curious if there's a way to confirm what board model you have without cracking the monitor open?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Hey all, I'm just curious if there's a way to confirm what board model you have without cracking the monitor open?


You could always create a custom resolution of 70hz in nvidia control panel or selecting 70hz with an ati card using powerstrip or cru and if it works, you have a good board. Non-OC boards cap out at 67hz. Though I'm sure there are more intelligent ways of checking this.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Well, 1440p is double the resolution of 1080p. So it'll be a lot more taxing on your system. Especially if you use anti-aliasing. A 580 is a decent card, for sure, but the 1.5gb and general power of the card means you can play on a single card, but will have to use medium quality settings, with probably no anti-aliasing. This is all, of course, depending on what framerate you're looking for. If you're aiming for 30 frames a second...you're golden. 60 frames, with medium settings. Above that...no anti-aliasing, and all medium settings should roughly do it.


I've asked this before and was told I'd be fine but I have the GTX 560 TI 448, would I only be able to run my games at medium settings too? I don't know what frames per second I'll be. I'll be using the standard 60hz cause I don't know anything about taking apart a monitor to overclock it.


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> I've asked this before and was told I'd be fine but I have the GTX 560 TI 448, would I only be able to run my games at medium settings too? I don't know what frames per second I'll be. I'll be using the standard 60hz cause I don't know anything about taking apart a monitor to overclock it.


Most likely although it really depends on the game. 1440p is not quite double 1080p, it's about 85% bigger though. I know my 580 can run Skyrim on ultra still but BF3 is choppy. You will probably need to lower your settings for most games with only a 560 to get good frame rates.


----------



## KaRLiToS

I had time to test my eyefinity setup and those screens run perfect at 1080p in games. People were saying it looks like cr*p but it's not true. It just looks better at 1440p... nothing different, higher resolution are always better anyway.

I also tried eyefinity with my triple 6970, at 1440p, its easily makeable. I had low FPS though (30 fps, max settings) ) but you just need to lower the quality settings,turn off Anti Aliasing and you get a big boost in FPS and you don't see any obvious quality reduction. I can run easily at 60fps average now. No point to go higher with 60hz monitors.

I'm pretty satisfied.


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> I had time to test my eyefinity setup and those screens run perfect at 1080p in games. People were saying it looks like cr*p but it's not true. It just looks better at 1440p... nothing different, higher resolution are always better anyway.
> I also tried eyefinity with my triple 6970, at 1440p, its easily makeable. I had low FPS though (30 fps, max settings) ) but you just need to lower the quality settings,turn off Anti Aliasing and you get a big boost in FPS and you don't see any obvious quality reduction. I can run easily at 60fps average now. No point to go higher with 60hz monitors.
> I'm pretty satisfied.


Nice, I'm thinking of getting the same setup. What adapters did you end up using (if any) to connect all 3 monitors? Also, what monitor stands are those and where can I buy them?


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> No point to go higher with 60hz monitors


Not true at all.


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> Not true at all.


He said since the monitors are only 60Hz there is no point to get over 60fps...which is 100 true.


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> He said since the monitors are only 60Hz there is no point to get over 60fps...which is 100 true.


It's not 100% true, higher framerates will be still more responsive regardless of what your monitor can display.

I can't play Quake at 60fps on a 60hz monitor, I need 120fps just like I would on a 120hz monitor.

Sure 120fps looks the same as 60fps on a 60hz monitor, but it still feels much much better.


----------



## fluxlite

I would also be interested to know what the new board revision is like regarding refresh rates.

Also, running non-native resolutions always looks worse.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalston*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> He said since the monitors are only 60Hz there is no point to get over 60fps...which is 100 true.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not 100% true, higher framerates will be still more responsive regardless of what your monitor can display.
> 
> I can't play Quake at 60fps on a 60hz monitor, I need 120fps just like I would on a 120hz monitor.
> 
> Sure 120fps looks the same as 60fps on a 60hz monitor, but it still feels much much better.
Click to expand...

What kalston says is largely true, and becomes even more true in games like CS where recoil animations are framerate based and complete faster with higher fps.


----------



## 101589dpm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niareme*
> 
> Thanks for the suggestion. As soon as I lifted up the panel, I smelled a faint burnt plastic smell.
> I took the metal cover off to take a look at the PCB and see if there was anything fried... everything looked ok, so I got a little closer to sniff around and concluded that there HAD to be something burnt.
> Took the PCB out, flipped it over, and two of the ICs are melted (U300 and U302... haven't looked closely to see if any others are gone). As more proof that something burned, I looked back at the metal plate which was under the PCB and there are two big brown spots where those ICs were in contact with.
> So there's my problem, parts of this board fried. DId it happen under my care or someone else's, I can't say for sure. This monitor was supposed to be new from green-sum (I did not ask for perfect pixel check so it should not have been opened) and I did not notice anything strange when I plugged it in the first time today - just that it would not turn on.
> Now I really don't know what to do. I know what the issue is (or maybe whatever fried the board also damaged the panel too, I don't know, hopefully not?) and it would be a lot easier and cheaper if it was possible to just send the PCB back and get a replacement for it... but what do I say to green-sum? I'm pretty sure I voided the warranty by opening it up. -_-"
> Help. I feel screwed out of $450.


I'm also pretty sure mine is DOA, but I don't know for sure. Has anyone tried one of these monitors with anything from Apple? I have tried with an '08 MacBook Pro, which has dual link DVI out, and current model iMac and Macbook Air through a mini displayport-dual link dvi adapter, and nothing has worked. I've taken it apart and put it back together and tested everything but can't get any display (the computers do recognize there is a monitor there). I'm also trying to figure out what to do... I'm a broke college student and just want a hi res screen to edit video on


----------



## ae-?a

OMG I am SOOOO happy. I ordered really late.. less than 1 week ago. And YES! I got a 2B. I really needed the high Hz so I am super happy. I think there is dust behind the glass though as I think its too small to be stuck pixels. Colors definitely need to be worked a bit but awesome picture otherwise. Haven't even had a chance to game yet but soo smooth. I am coming from a dell 3007WFP-HC and my was using the USB hub in it. I had to get it working in linux with no mouse lol

My gtx 470 wont let me go > 400 Mhz pixel clock though whines about hardware issue. Here is the modeline I am using for 101 Hz:

Modeline "2560x1440" 400.00 2560 2592 2612 2692 1440 1443 1448 1480 +Hsync +Vsync

Also the linux nvidia drivers whined about the EDID and would not even work without a custom modeline. Also using this to use the modeline:

In monitor section:

VertRefresh 43 - 120
HorizSync 28 - 200

And in device section:

Option "UseEDID" "FALSE"
Option "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"
Option "ModeValidation" "NoVertRefreshCheck, NoHorizSyncCheck, NoDFPNativeResolutionCheck, NoMaxSizeCheck, NoMaxPClkCheck, NoEDIDModes"

Picture of the box/back of the LCD showing 2B. WOOOT!





And nvidia-settings showing refresh:


----------



## mav451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluxlite*
> 
> I would also be interested to know what the new board revision is like regarding refresh rates.


Ditto. Apart from QBex, is there anyone else with a 2A board? Note I realistically am I not expecting it to OC, because I thought the change from 2B to 2C was also a cost-cutting measure, so why would they suddenly increase cost in the 2A boards?

@ae-?a - nice pull man


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluxlite*
> 
> I would also be interested to know what the new board revision is like regarding refresh rates.
> Also, running non-native resolutions always looks worse.
> What kalston says is largely true, and becomes even more true in games like CS where recoil animations are framerate based and complete faster with higher fps.


If this is true then that is just bad game design. This gives an advantage to the person with the better computer.


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> If this is true then that is just bad game design. This gives an advantage to the person with the better computer.


A better computer and monitor is always an advantage in a FPS (or fast paced RTS) anyway.
But yeah, it's not very cool when there are bugs such as the one you quoted. But there are many other examples (Quake's physics/netcode for example), so it's just something you get used to in gaming.


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalston*
> 
> A better computer and monitor is always an advantage in a FPS or RTS.


Yes but there is a diminishing return that approaches zero pretty quick...If a game action is based on frame rate then, recoil, can in theory happen instantly if your computer was fast enough.


----------



## Dylan33p

curious why get a power brick when you could just get one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-Power-Bright-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-220-110-/290694744252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43aec1c8bc#ht_2290wt_1019


----------



## j6044

I ordered 3 from Red Cap last night.

Waiting patiently ...


----------



## fluxlite

Well, I play a lot of quake, and if you're at all serious about it, you can feel fundementally *massive* differences between framerates, monitor refresh rates and even different mice. It's been that way for a long time in all competative FPS.

In terms of DR - yes, probably.


----------



## ae-?a

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluxlite*
> 
> Well, I play a lot of quake, and if you're at all serious about it, you can feel fundementally *massive* differences between framerates, monitor refresh rates and even different mice. It's been that way for a long time in all competative FPS.
> In terms of DR - yes, probably.


Indeed. Ive played a bit of quakelive @ 100hz and man its a huge difference from my dell 3007wfp-hc (30 inch 2560x1600 @ 60hz). I am definitely appreciating the 100hz. My lg is easily doing 34-38% and I am not even really warmed up.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hybridtracer*
> 
> Most likely although it really depends on the game. 1440p is not quite double 1080p, it's about 85% bigger though. I know my 580 can run Skyrim on ultra still but BF3 is choppy. You will probably need to lower your settings for most games with only a 560 to get good frame rates.


Well this is disappointing.


----------



## eternal7trance

I just ordered one and right now it's in alaska. lol


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ae-?a*
> 
> OMG I am SOOOO happy. I ordered really late.. less than 1 week ago. And YES! I got a 2B. I really needed the high Hz so I am super happy.


Who did you order from? I'm assuming you ordered the tempered glass one?


----------



## Phenrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DASM*
> 
> Yes, where is no PWM in this monitor. But the scheme was done very poorly, is often caused by darkening one side of the screen. Follow this link to fix it http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=28:27061-28#896


I finally got the time to look at the circuit board today and I found out that mine is very much unlike yours. First of all, it's a D-900 Revision 1.0. I noticed your monitor has no audio amplifier integrated circuit so it must be an SE model, but I have a non-SE with an amplifier and speakers. Another thing I saw was that your board has BIT3251 PWM controllers which appear to drive your LED lighting system (correct me if I'm wrong). My board has a HV9911NG LED lighting driver (http://www.google.com/search?q=hv9911ng&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&client=firefox-a), so obviously this mod probably will not fix my lighting system, and even if it did, I have no idea where to put the components since the layout is completely different.















If you want to look into it and you are able to find out how to fix this particular lighting controller that would be much appreciated. Otherwise I will try to study the datasheet for the HV9911NG controller and the resistance values on my board to see why half the screen is dimming to a lower level.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Just got another moniter in. And to my surprise, its a 2b model. Got it from bigclothcraft. And got it in 3 days.










sent from galaxy far far away


----------



## HyperMatrix

Been a weird couple of days. 2x B monitors and 1x A monitor. I wonder what pcb, if anything different, will be used in the 2D models being manufactured now.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> If you want to look into it and you are able to find out how to fix this particular lighting controller that would be much appreciated. Otherwise I will try to study the datasheet for the HV9911NG controller and the resistance and capacitance values on my board to see why half the screen is dimming to a lower level.


I've taken a look at the boards I have on hand (a 2B and a 2C) as well as the mod translated by Phenrick, and I've got a resonably good understanding of the PWM circuit used on those two boards and what the mod is doing.

In the unmodified board, they've paralleled a diode and a 220-ohm series resistor for the left side with the same for the right side - following a 47kOhm resistor that is shared by both halves of the backlight driver.

The mod moves the split from after the 47k to before it - replacing the 47k with two 100k resistors (which in parallel are roughly equivalent to the 47k). This is done because a diode with just 220 ohms in series is quite sensitive to variance in the resistance and diode parameters causing differing amounts of current to flow through each side, resulting in uneven backlighting. By moving the split to before the big resistor, these small differences are absorbed and have almost no effect on the overall brightness.

Additionally, the 2C and 2B PCBs use a bit of a different layout, resulting in different component positions for some of the parts mentioned in the mod (the 2B specifically has a couple of those components over by the button PCB connector) but the same mod should be equally relevant to both designs (you'll just have to solder to different places on the board).

The reason not everybody may need the mod is because the amount of imbalance is partially based on minor component variances, so somebody whose parts came out close to each other wouldn't notice a difference as much as somebody whose resistors are, say, 5% different from each other. Temperature could also have an effect here, so people may notice the relative brightness varying over time as well.

I'm going to perform the mod to stryker's 2B (which exhibits the problem fairly visibly, which my 2C board does not) and during that process I'll take some high res shots of the boards and where/how to do the mod, and write up a clearer english guide. Phenrick's guide is mostly accurate if anybody wants to attempt the mod now; the only vague part is that the capacitor is patched off the side of the wire that you're using from the 100k to the diode, and the capacitor's other end is simply soldered to ground (the bottom side of the other capacitors in the pic near point 3)

I have attached the schematic differences between the unmodified and modified boards (it's hand-drawn right now, if somebody really wants a clearer one let me know and I'll do it up in Eagle) if it helps anybody.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Hey guys. Regarding overclocking for those with GTX 680's who are looking at over 100hz refresh rate. I was looking around online for info and found that Dual Link DVI is limited to around 10gbps bandwidth, whereas we need about 15gbps to run our monitors at [email protected] But the neat part is...the 10gbps isn't a limit of the dual link dvi specification. Rather, it's a limit of the copper used in the cables. So my theory, for those who have a gtx 680 and are not able to hit 120-124hz, was that the limitation could be caused by the provided DVI cable. I went out and bought a proper cable the day my monitor came in. But I figured instead of making you guys go out and buy new cables...I could simply try using the original cable that came with my monitor!

And...sadly...it works just as well.







I even tried and pushed to 125hz on the stock cable and it's working fine. Though a 498mhz pixel clock may not be a great idea as it's close to the 500mhz limit of the card. So don't waste your money buying a new cable. Keep playing around to find that OC!

If anyone gets around to pushing the limits to 120hz and beyond it, so you still maintain compatibility with the new refresh rates in some apps, I slightly upped the horizontal and vertical refresh limits of the driver:

Catleap_Q270_OC_v2.zip 1k .zip file


Also it'd be really nice if we had a list of what refresh rates people have been able to hit.

*EDIT:* In order for your computer to properly read and accept this or the previous driver I have listed in the OC guide, you must first go and UNINSTALL your existing monitor driver, whatever it may be, and choose the "Delete Driver" option while doing it. Then reboot your PC. Then go and update driver to this one.


----------



## Voxxik

Just got my Catleap from green sum, no glass, no speakers. Took about a week to get here, absolutely perfect condition, no bad pixels, little bit of backlight bleedthrough on the bottom right, but other than that it's great. I love it and will probably be getting another one soon. It's a 2C, unfortunately, but I wasn't nearly as concerned with the overclocking as I was with the ridiculously low price. I've also decided I need a GPU upgrade from my 6950 soon, not quite cutting it at 2560x1440.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Just unpacked the new 2B moniter and got it up and running. Had no problem getting it to 100mhz







( thanks to the guide )! Played skyrim for about 10 mins and I can definatly tell a difference from 65mhz ( all my 2C model can do







).


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Just unpacked the new 2B moniter and got it up and running. Had no problem getting it to 100mhz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ( thanks to the guide )! Played skyrim for about 10 mins and I can definatly tell a difference from 65mhz ( all my 2C model can do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Haha yeah it's funny how painful 60hz becomes after you've tried 100hz. Grats on the 2B and your OC!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Voxxik*
> 
> Just got my Catleap from green sum, no glass, no speakers. Took about a week to get here, absolutely perfect condition, no bad pixels, little bit of backlight bleedthrough on the bottom right, but other than that it's great. I love it and will probably be getting another one soon. It's a 2C, unfortunately, but I wasn't nearly as concerned with the overclocking as I was with the ridiculously low price. I've also decided I need a GPU upgrade from my 6950 soon, not quite cutting it at 2560x1440.


Don't feel too bad about the 6950 feeling like it's not enough at this resolution. I feel the same way about my sli gtx 680's that scored 17050 in 3dmark performance test. Gotta wait for those GK110's. Those are going to be amazing. =D The problem is that there is so much more to see on these beautiful monitors and it feels like a shame to run games at anything but the highest setting. Which...is quite taxing for any video card on the market just yet.

But just in case we were able to get some 2B boards or if you wanted to sell your monitor and buy a new 2B monitor that may become available in the future, pick up a GTX 680 if you have to get a new card right away. That card can OC up to a maximum of 125hz. And honestly...some may say going from 100hz to 125hz is nothing. But some people say going from 60hz to 100hz is nothing. To me, that's 25% more frames I get to see! =D Keep your options open. And grats on the monitor.


----------



## komichi

Oh balls, I guess I got unlucky.

My catleap has sound, no tempered glass (x_x), and probably 7-8 dead pixels.

Also it came with a power adapter that is 190-240v 3.0A, it works but will it set my house on fire?

Edit: Actually, how do you check if it's a tempered glass model?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Oh balls, I guess I got unlucky.
> My catleap has sound, no tempered glass (x_x), and probably 7-8 dead pixels.
> Also it came with a power adapter that is 190-240v 3.0A, it works but will it set my house on fire?


7-8? I'd see if there's a way to get it replaced or at least get a discount. That's pretty excessive. I'd recommend a proper adapter instead of using what you're using. I'm in the same situation. I'm worried about no-name branded electrical equipment of any kind.









My monitor has 3 or 4 dead pixels but they're so tiny and not in the central area that I almost never even notice them. And considering mine was a 2B, I decided not to complain.


----------



## komichi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> 7-8? I'd see if there's a way to get it replaced or at least get a discount. That's pretty excessive. I'd recommend a proper adapter instead of using what you're using. I'm in the same situation. I'm worried about no-name branded electrical equipment of any kind.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My monitor has 3 or 4 dead pixels but they're so tiny and not in the central area that I almost never even notice them. And considering mine was a 2B, I decided not to complain.


Did you ask your seller for a discount or a at least a new adapter? What did they say?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Did you ask your seller for a discount or a at least a new adapter? What did they say?


Yeah I'm getting another adapter sent to me free of charge by green-sum for my second monitor. He's been great to deal with, honestly. The first monitor, I didn't bother complaining about it. I don't even see the pixels and I was happy enough to have a 2b model. But I've heard of people getting substantial discounts or an option to exchange the monitor when they had too many dead pixels. It's worth a shot mate.


----------



## saiyr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dylan33p*
> 
> curious why get a power brick when you could just get one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/100W-Power-Bright-Voltage-Converter-Transformer-220-110-/290694744252?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43aec1c8bc#ht_2290wt_1019


This is exactly what I did, and it came in today. Woohoo! Except the adapter still won't turn on. Kill me now. Any suggestions before I start soldering random stuff together?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

@HyperMatrix

Hi im using your guide to overclock my monitor (2B1). I have an ATI card, when I use Powerstrip the Advanced timing options button is grayed out. Its in the configure display profiles window. Any Idea what im doing wrong? I imported regkey file you uploaded.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Update, i just talked to the seller of my 2b monitor. I asked if he had any more 2b in stock and he had one ( had because I bought it already







). He informed me the the company controls stock of what he gets, but he will look into if the 2b are still being produced. And he'll keep a eye on what he gets , and let me know if he can get more 2b's. He didn't realize the difference between the 2b and 2c model and was surprised that they differed internally.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> @HyperMatrix
> Hi im using your guide to overclock my monitor (2B1). I have an ATI card, when I use Powerstrip the Advanced timing options button is grayed out. Its in the configure display profiles window. Any Idea what im doing wrong? I imported regkey file you uploaded.


Hey. I did mine with a radeon 6970. The problem is newer ati cards aren't detected by powerstrip in the same way as it hasn't been updated in a year. You'll have to use CRU, posted by ToastyX, to make profiles using the same settings, but do a step-jump. So go bit by bit. Go try creating a profile to go from 60hz, to 80hz, then 90hz, then 100hz.

CRU.zip 335k .zip file


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Hey. I did mine with a radeon 6970. The problem is newer ati cards aren't detected by powerstrip in the same way as it hasn't been updated in a year. You'll have to use CRU, posted by ToastyX, to make profiles using the same settings, but do a step-jump. So go bit by bit. Go try creating a profile to go from 60hz, to 80hz, then 90hz, then 100hz.
> 
> CRU.zip 335k .zip file


Oh ok that makes sense. Thanks much.
Rep+


----------



## Malvasius

I just received my SE today (ordered Monday) from green-sum. It's a 2C which I figured it would be but no dead or stuck pixels of any kind. It was a nice upgrade from my old Dell 2405FPW. The power supply is the 110-240 variety and doesn't seem to be getting too hot. It is the glossy version with no AG coating. Thanks guys for the heads up on a great monitor!


----------



## komichi

Does anyone know if temper glass sound like real glass when you tap on it?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Does anyone know if temper glass sound like real glass when you tap on it?


Tempered glass is real glass. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempered_glass

It does sound a little different than a thicker pane of glass you're used to seeing however, as it is thinner and stronger.


----------



## komichi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Tempered glass is real glass. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempered_glass
> It does sound a little different than a thicker pane of glass you're used to seeing however, as it is thinner and stronger.


Does it improve image quality in any way?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Thanks cru did the trick! BF3 running at 97hz with vsync. Very nice


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Tempered glass is real glass. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tempered_glass
> It does sound a little different than a thicker pane of glass you're used to seeing however, as it is thinner and stronger.
> 
> 
> 
> Does it improve image quality in any way?
Click to expand...

It's there to protect the panel, no more no less.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Does it improve image quality in any way?


It improves aesthetics. But no I don't find it improves image quality.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Thanks cru did the trick! BF3 running at 97hz with vsync. Very nice


Yeah we should probably update that guide since most people have 7000 series radeon cards now which the guide won't apply to.


----------



## Miagi100

those who have ordered from green-sum how long did it take for your tracking # to show up?


----------



## cirthix

if anyone has a 2b overclockable model with dead pixels, i will trade a new pixel-perfect one for it


----------



## p33k

I ordered Catleap off gmarket yesterday morning and already have it setup less than 24 hours later. Shipping is so fast in Korea







No dead or stuck pixels. I got a serial number 2D.


----------



## cirthix

2d? take some pics of the insides for us please


----------



## komichi

For my model, sound w/o glass, there isn't a button to open up the setting menu.

That and the brightness control only respond with a red light, is that normal?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> For my model, sound w/o glass, there isn't a button to open up the setting menu.
> That and the brightness control only respond with a red light, is that normal?


There is no on screen display for these monitors. There is a, I believe, 30 stage brightness setting. Best way to know where it's at is to max it out by holding the increase brightness button, then pressing downwards 15 times.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cirthix*
> 
> 2d? take some pics of the insides for us please


Maybe tomorrow I will do that... to busy setting up and playing today.
I am a little worried last time I took apart a monitor I had to put it back together with some tape









I am torn now what to game on... I notice the difference between my xl2420t 120hz vs 60hz but the difference in color/screen size makes it a hard decision!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Maybe tomorrow I will do that... to busy setting up and playing today.
> I am a little worried last time I took apart a monitor I had to put it back together with some tape
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am torn now what to game on... I notice the difference between my xl2420t 120hz vs 60hz but the difference in color/screen size makes it a hard decision!


We really need you to so we can see what they've come up with for the 2D model









Have you tried overclocking the 2D at all?


----------



## cirthix

give the man a break, he might even do it tomorrow









*eagerly awaits*


----------



## p33k

I was really hoping to wait until I got a mount for the two monitors but I will open it up tomorrow... I just need to take off the bezel (8 screws) to see the PCB right? As for overclocking the highest I could get it was 67hz before screen would just bug out.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I was really hoping to wait until I got a mount for the two monitors but I will open it up tomorrow... I just need to take off the bezel (8 screws) to see the PCB right? As for overclocking the highest I could get it was 67hz before screen would just bug out.


Probably still using the same board so far. Keep in mind the numbers don't reflect a hardware change, but simply the month of production. We're just hoping that at some point one of those changes includes 120hz again!


----------



## SmaShTr

I'm trying to calibrate my monitor, as it does look a bit green to me, especially when compared to my D8000 TV. Since I don't have any of the hardware required to properly calibrate my set, I figured I'd give a try to the profiles in the OP. Problem is, the webpage seems to be down. Anyone know where I can download them?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmaShTr*
> 
> I'm trying to calibrate my monitor, as it does look a bit green to me, especially when compared to my D8000 TV. Since I don't have any of the hardware required to properly calibrate my set, I figured I'd give a try to the profiles in the OP. Problem is, the webpage seems to be down. Anyone know where I can download them?


Not sure but you can always calibrate through Nvidia Control Panel or Powerstrip. I found I had too much green, and when I reduced the green, I had a little too much red. And now I'm fine. =D


----------



## psycheangel

guys anyone here have eye strain problem after using yamakasi catleap for 6 - 8 hour?
>.< when im using my old LG LED monitor i have no problem playing 12 hour straight
but after using this monitor my eye strain after playing 4-5 hour

do i need to buy eye protective layer?

note: my brightness is 8 from bottom


----------



## Djankie

For the guys with more than 1 monitors of 1440p. Which converter do you use? I had a convertor from china but that is with 24+5 pins, hence the signal of 1440p will only be transferred if all the pins are connected. However the monitor can only take a 24+1 pins DVI connector. So which adapter works for a 1440p signal with 244+1 pins?

I now have 3 1440P monitors:

1. connected with displayport (active)

2. DVI-DVI

3. DVI-convertor (passive)--> Mini-Displayport. The converter has a maximum output of 1080P. But I need the full 1440P.

need to buy adapter


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> For the guys with more than 1 monitors of 1440p. Which converter do you use? I had a convertor from china but that is with 24+5 pins, hence the signal of 1440p will only be transferred if all the pins are connected. However the monitor can only take a 24+1 pins DVI connector. So which adapter works for a 1440p signal with 244+1 pins?


If I'm understanding you correctly, for one monitor I had to use the built in cable to connect to the DVI of my 7970, and use this guy to connect to the mini-DP of my 7970.


----------



## Patrikc8

I am considering buying the catleap but there are so many options!,

Catleap
Shimani
PB2700 Super

I like the look of the Catleap and Shimani but is that enough to justify? As I do game and the PB2700 supposedly offers better ms.

Need advice, Thanks!


----------



## tcboy88

i noticed my catleap has a small grey spot i n the panel
it is only noticeable when the background is white
it is about 4mmx4mm in size
it seems like a burned mark for me
I am not sure what it is, and it is only noticeable on certain viewing angle (straight =.=)

at first i thought it was some oil or dirt, after cleaning i realize it is not
anyway it is not obvious at all, so i shall just leave it
as i understand these are just A to A- panel from LG, not A+

I am just curious if anyone else have such problem/experience before?

my crappy galaxy s cant capture the details


----------



## synthetikv

Received mine yesterday. No dead pixels and arrived with Welltronics 110v -240v brick. I haven't tried to overclock it yet but had to take it apart to mount it and I'm pretty sure its a non-oc one. Still great monitor though.

Ordered monday through Dream-Seller


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Thanks cru did the trick! BF3 running at 97hz with vsync. Very nice


Can you please post a step by step.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Can you please post a step by step.


Check the first post in this thread.


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Can you please post a step by step.
> 
> 
> 
> Check the first post in this thread.
Click to expand...

Powerstrip method does not work on 79xx cards. Check pages 233-234 for the kool-aid.


----------



## edo101

So can this monitor be rotated to portrait mode?


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edo101*
> 
> So can this monitor be rotated to portrait mode?


Not with the stand it comes with.


----------



## edo101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Not with the stand it comes with.


Damn which one of the 3 Korean monitors have the best pic? I am now leaning toward the Crossover 27Q for Portrait mode. is this smart?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Stryker.
I was mistaken when I thought my 97 hz was applied.
I am at 80hz. But setting more than that will default me back to 60hz. Im still doing some tweaking and today hopefully I will be around 100 if all goes to plan.


----------



## edo101

how do consoles fare on these Korean monitors since they don't have scalers?


----------



## michaelcku

Hi Everyone.

So i just purchased a Catleap SE from Dream Seller. Received it today.

Version - 2C.








Powered it on with a Mono price DVI-D to Mini-display port --> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2.

NOT WORKING!!!







. Monitor is Flashing Green.
I am running it off of a Dell 15Z with a GT525M Video card.

I have no other DVI-D cable to test it with nor another computer.
My laptop can output to a Apple monitor with the HDMI port it is not a issue. Also tried a HDMI adapter and that didn't work.

My Laptop can detect the DVI-D connection and advise the 2560x1440 rez however nothing is showing up on the Catleap.

Updating the Driver. Still not working... Will keep everyone posted. I'll probably need help. Or buy a new computer









If you get flashing green light issues, it can be:

1. Your GPU is not supported;
2. Your drivers stink (do a clean install); --> Updated Driver

3. Your DVI cable stinks (the cable that comes with the monitor is hit or miss with whether it will work properly. One of mine worked while the other didn't.); AND/OR

4. Loose wiring inside the unit (DVI connection to Panel PCB connection.) --> Will give this a shot... I am not a tech person.

1. What type of GPU do you have installed? --> GT525M Laptop 15Z

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? Latest from Nvidia 8.17.12.9610

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? Will take it to a local repair shop.

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? No other monitors connected.

4. Tried any of the other things listed above? Trying.


----------



## Goodfella

Finally got my Catleap. Ordered on Mar 29 from green-sum, shipped this past Thursday and delivered earlier today







Once I got everything hooked up and powered on for the 1st time....nothing shows up on the screen







so I checked out the OP to take a look at the documented troubleshooting steps listed there. Turns out the internal DVI cable coming from the PCB was loose so I had to take the panel apart and reseat the cable back in place. BOOM! everything is working fine now









Oh, another thing.....you guys were right.....the stand is horrible but other than that I'm loving this monitor,no bad pixels. Forgot to mention that It's a 2C panel.


----------



## tcboy88

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-Q270-SE-/140729187593?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41cfd09]



TS should put in first post that laptop are not supported
Maybe the q270 led MULTI version could support it
I am not sure thou, but some1 who bought the MULTI version says it support ps3 on 1080p with hdmi input


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelcku*
> 
> Powered it on with a Mono price DVI-D to Mini-display port --> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2.
> NOT WORKING!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Monitor is Flashing Green.


I have a mac and it works fine with the adapter from monoprice.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psycheangel*
> 
> guys anyone here have eye strain problem after using yamakasi catleap for 6 - 8 hour?
> >.< when im using my old LG LED monitor i have no problem playing 12 hour straight
> but after using this monitor my eye strain after playing 4-5 hour
> do i need to buy eye protective layer?
> note: my brightness is 8 from bottom


Try turning the brightness all the way up, then using the contrast setting in the video driver to reduce the brightness. You may be sensitive to the flickering caused by the PWM method this display uses to dim (basically the backlight is flickering on and off at 160Hz).


----------



## Neo Mike

Been looking for a low price ips montior, couldnt find any reviews on this monitor, seems from this thread its prettty good. So how would u guys rate this monitor, im sort or new to htpc kinda stuff. Would this monitor be good for watching blu rays on my computer ?, i have a ati radeon 5770 i just got, but from reading it wont power this monitor, what would you say is the minium ati card to use, how is the picture quality ? thanks for helping.

Can it be hooked up thru hdmi ?


----------



## stryker7314

Can someone with a 2b and an nvidia card that is not a 680 try and overclock to 120hz with the powerstrip method and post your results. Preferably a 560/570/580. I plan to get one for team fortress 2 on my 2b and I dont think I need the power of a 680 do I?


----------



## fluxlite

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Been looking for a low price ips montior, couldnt find any reviews on this monitor, seems from this thread its prettty good. So how would u guys rate this monitor, im sort or new to htpc kinda stuff. Would this monitor be good for watching blu rays on my computer ?, i have a ati radeon 5770 i just got, but from reading it wont power this monitor, what would you say is the minium ati card to use, how is the picture quality ? thanks for helping.
> 
> Can it be hooked up thru hdmi ?


It's not really good for watching blu-rays...brds are 1080p, this monitor is 1440p. More pixels isn't better in this case.

I don't know why this says a 5770 won't work...certainly if you want to play games you need something a lot more powerful.

They only have 1 DL DVI input, so no HDMI, but you should be able to use HDMI - DVI (even though it says you can't). Someone can confirm this.


----------



## HyperMatrix

I've been told I'm not allowed to link any youtube videos or link to any sites that have any "swear words" on them. I'm not in kindergarten and that is ridiculous. Peace out guys. Done with this.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I've been told I'm not allowed to link any youtube videos or link to any sites that have any "swear words" on them. I'm not in kindergarten and that is ridiculous. Peace out guys. Done with this.


LMAO are you serious? I can see now spouting profanity in your posts (looks like they have a filter that filters that out anyways) but we are expected to look over Youtube comments and such for a swear word (OMG! Not a sweeear word!)?

I of course don't know exactly what went down but if the above is the case then ya...***?!


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Edit: PM'd to keep the thread clean.


----------



## sissyjam

EDIT: Clearing this post. Was troubleshooting some monitor issues and managed to clear it up myself







.


----------



## Neo Mike

I know that blu rays are in 1080p, so the fact that this monitor is higher resolution isnt going to help me ? i dont game, i watch blu rays, hd tv thru tv card, what would be the best monitor or tv for my use to get the best possiable picture ?


----------



## Neo Mike

Even if i watched blu rays in 1920x1080 on this monitor, the fact its a IPS screen isnt it going to look alot better than a regular LED monitor ? or am i wrong ?


----------



## teraflame

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Even if i watched blu rays in 1920x1080 on this monitor, the fact its a IPS screen isnt it going to look alot better than a regular LED monitor ? or am i wrong ?


Movies will be fine, as long as thats not all you're doing. The viewing angles of IPS make them look a lot better than TN panels. High res is worth it for everything you do on the pc really.


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I've been told I'm not allowed to link any youtube videos or link to any sites that have any "swear words" on them. I'm not in kindergarten and that is ridiculous. Peace out guys. Done with this.


WHAT THE!

Are you serious? Really? Or is this some belated April Fool's joke. ScreenShotss up right now - this is ridiculous.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Hopefully Hyper will be back and not gone for good - he was doing some great testing for all of us.

I will not have a 680 (or 2 or 3!) until they release the 4gb waters so I cannot continue with the search for stable 120hz across the board.

No word on my new PCBs yet (weekend so I don't expect one anyway.) I am back in country middle of next week and will work on updating OP, etc. towards the end of the week.


----------



## Wage

Yeah, whoever suggested that to him via PM can go suck one. Was it an admin or the OP or some random Bible-toter or what? I've seen legitimate tech reviews featuring the F word more than once, but does that make them and their findings any less appropriate or valid?

Give me a break, and I'll gladly quit this forum along with Hyper if a mod (if it was indeed a mod) wants to come out of their cowardly hiding spot in order to take responsibility for this. I don't even know Hyper, but I'm not going to be part of a community that supports censorship because they can't handle a few curse words, either.


----------



## TheJesus

These are from the ToS you agreed to when you joined this website:

Use profanity. This includes the use of symbols, abbreviations, or acronyms to circumvent the no profanity rule.
Maintain an environment that is friendly to all ages
No swearing, racy images etc.
Depending on how the profanity is being displayed, I wouldn't jump to such hasty conclusions of evil moderators and admins. If it was indeed simply a YouTube link that had profanity in the comments section, that's a little far-reaching as this is the internet. But, if it was a YouTube link that had profanity within the title or description, I could possibly see that.

This website is meant to be accessible to all ages, you must understand that.

(I'm not a mod or affiliated with OCN, I just wished to express my opinion. If you have further questions, I suggest you forward them to a moderator as they will know the exact details)


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Yeah, whoever suggested that to him via PM can go suck one. Was it an admin or the OP or some random Bible-toter or what? I've seen legitimate tech reviews featuring the F word more than once, but does that make them and their findings any less appropriate or valid?
> Give me a break, and I'll gladly quit this forum along with Hyper if a mod (if it was indeed a mod) wants to come out of their cowardly hiding spot in order to take responsibility for this. I don't even know Hyper, but I'm not going to be part of a community that supports censorship because they can't handle a few curse words, either.


Point the finger at the site owner. http://www.overclock.net/t/219513/the-dreaded-f/0_100#post_2540768 Profanity apart from some low-level derogatory stuff is frowned upon and that includes any embedded or third party content (with some exceptions). If you want to talk down to us about the rules we uphold then please do it in private if it's impossible to avoid doing so.


----------



## SmaShTr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Even if i watched blu rays in 1920x1080 on this monitor, the fact its a IPS screen isnt it going to look alot better than a regular LED monitor ? or am i wrong ?


If you are interested in watching a lot of 1080p content, then just get a 1080p monitor. It will look better.

I don't know about blu-rays, but I've seen quite a bit of 1080p Youtube content, and while it looks great on my 55" 1080p Samsung TV, it looks bad on this 27" monitor at full screen. The reason is quite obvious, it's like that time when you first played an 800x600 game on a 1024x768 monitor; only that the difference in pixels is now far greater.

Everything else will look amazing, but videos with inferior resolution, not so much.


----------



## Neo Mike

Im out on this monitor, im going to get a 32 inch panasonic vieta ips led 1080p tv, then i get the best of both worlds, for about same price as the catleap. Thanks for all the input, i think if i was a gamer i would get the catleap.


----------



## CharlesK

You can't say you have the best of both world when the TV is 1920*1080 and the catleap is 2560x1440, which is one of its main assets


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlesK*
> 
> You can't say you have the best of both world when the TV is 1920*1080 and the catleap is 2560x1440, which is one of its main assets


I think he meant getting an S-IPS screen. If one has no real desire/need/use for 2560x1440 then a 1920x1080 32" TV with additional features/inputs would be the best of both worlds (depending on the price). However, I don't know why one would chose a Panasonic Viera (assuming it's a U3 with low input lag) if they didn't game as it lacks 4:4:4 and would make a mediocre monitor because of it. In that regard, it's not the best of both worlds and there are other TVs that would do a better job especially since the slight increase of input lag wouldn't mean anything. The best of both worlds is heavily dependent on perspective though . . .


----------



## Wage

I figured that guy meant the best of Mediocre World and Subpar Land, but whatever floats his boat, and if he's happy then that's all that matters


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmaShTr*
> 
> If you are interested in watching a lot of 1080p content, then just get a 1080p monitor. It will look better.
> I don't know about blu-rays, but I've seen quite a bit of 1080p Youtube content, and while it looks great on my 55" 1080p Samsung TV, it looks bad on this 27" monitor at full screen. The reason is quite obvious, it's like that time when you first played an 800x600 game on a 1024x768 monitor; only that the difference in pixels is now far greater.
> Everything else will look amazing, but videos with inferior resolution, not so much.


This is true but with high quality scaling (using the madVR renderer for example) it would actually look great.


----------



## Neo Mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Racer J*
> 
> I think he meant getting an S-IPS screen. If one has no real desire/need/use for 2560x1440 then a 1920x1080 32" TV with additional features/inputs would be the best of both worlds (depending on the price). However, I don't know why one would chose a Panasonic Viera (assuming it's a U3 with low input lag) if they didn't game as it lacks 4:4:4 and would make a mediocre monitor because of it. In that regard, it's not the best of both worlds and there are other TVs that would do a better job especially since the slight increase of input lag wouldn't mean anything. The best of both worlds is heavily dependent on perspective though . . .


What 32 inch led 1080p tv would u recommend for my situation ??????. I guess the 2560x1440 isnt really going to do me anygood for watching blu rays, hd tv, and general computing. Kinda a noob at this and trying to get information, i just know ips is something i need from reading, maybe catsleap makes a nice 1920x1080 ips monitor.


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Been looking for a low price ips montior, couldnt find any reviews on this monitor, seems from this thread its prettty good. So how would u guys rate this monitor, im sort or new to htpc kinda stuff. Would this monitor be good for watching blu rays on my computer ?, i have a ati radeon 5770 i just got, but from reading it wont power this monitor, what would you say is the minium ati card to use, how is the picture quality ? thanks for helping.
> Can it be hooked up thru hdmi ?


I would rate mine a 9/10 and I own other high quality S-IPS monitors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fluxlite*
> 
> It's not really good for watching blu-rays...brds are 1080p, this monitor is 1440p. More pixels isn't better in this case.
> I don't know why this says a 5770 won't work...certainly if you want to play games you need something a lot more powerful.
> They only have 1 DL DVI input, so no HDMI, but you should be able to use HDMI - DVI (even though it says you can't). Someone can confirm this.


Not true at all. I have my gpu handling scaling and 1080p content looks amazing.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmaShTr*
> 
> If you are interested in watching a lot of 1080p content, then just get a 1080p monitor. It will look better.
> I don't know about blu-rays, but I've seen quite a bit of 1080p Youtube content, and while it looks great on my 55" 1080p Samsung TV, it looks bad on this 27" monitor at full screen. The reason is quite obvious, it's like that time when you first played an 800x600 game on a 1024x768 monitor; only that the difference in pixels is now far greater.
> Everything else will look amazing, but videos with inferior resolution, not so much.


I have compared 1080p TN panels to higher resolution, ie 2560x1600 and 2560x1440 S-IPS, the S-IPS looks FAR superior, there is no question which is the best.

Also, these monitors(2560x1440) maintain the same aspect ratio as 1080p, so no stretching of any kind happens when they are scaled up.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

@HyperMatrix

Hopefully you will stick around man! You have contributed a great amount to this thread and overclocking the 2b models.
Some of the rules might seem a bit silly but please dont take it personally!


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> What 32 inch led 1080p tv would u recommend for my situation ??????. I guess the 2560x1440 isnt really going to do me anygood for watching blu rays, hd tv, and general computing. Kinda a noob at this and trying to get information, i just know ips is something i need from reading, maybe catsleap makes a nice 1920x1080 ips monitor.


I wish someone would post so I don't have to keep making my last post so big but I have some serious advice about HDTVs as monitors that comes from experience.
If you want to use the HDTV as a secondary monitor to watch movies on then great, it will work well, just make sure to get a good TV. I find using the PC link, i.e. VGA works better on average than HDMI, depending on the TV.
If you are planning to use something like a 32" HDTV as your primary monitor and do actual 2d stuff, web surfing, document writing, spreadsheets, file management, etc., then you are much better off getting a monitor. Most HDTV's have a larger pixel pitch and it can lead to eyestrain and loss of clarity when sitting too close.


----------



## Neo Mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mygaffer*
> 
> I wish someone would post so I don't have to keep making my last post so big but I have some serious advice about HDTVs as monitors that comes from experience.
> If you want to use the HDTV as a secondary monitor to watch movies on then great, it will work well, just make sure to get a good TV. I find using the PC link, i.e. VGA works better on average than HDMI, depending on the TV.
> If you are planning to use something like a 32" HDTV as your primary monitor and do actual 2d stuff, web surfing, document writing, spreadsheets, file management, etc., then you are much better off getting a monitor. Most HDTV's have a larger pixel pitch and it can lead to eyestrain and loss of clarity when sitting too close.


Well i cant afford monitor and tv, hmmm im thinking hd tv is out, hmmm i may have to get the catsleap, although i dont know if i would use the 2500x1440 ever, i do play some games now and then, it just like a great monitor for the price. Im just thinking im not going to beat the ips quality and size of this monitor anywhere. Since you have exp in using hd Tvs for monitors and that sort of stuff, would you say t hat this catsleap is a good choice for my kinda use ? i need to get something fast, and thanks for everybodys help.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Well i cant afford monitor and tv, hmmm im thinking hd tv is out, hmmm i may have to get the catsleap, although i dont know if i would use the 2500x1440 ever, i do play some games now and then, it just like a great monitor for the price. Im just thinking im not going to beat the ips quality and size of this monitor anywhere. Since you have exp in using hd Tvs for monitors and that sort of stuff, would you say t hat this catsleap is a good choice for my kinda use ? i need to get something fast, and thanks for everybodys help.


Comparing 27" monitors: at 1080p content is being physically "stretched", and the DPI is lower with the larger pixels, and there's nothing you can do about that. With a 1440p monitor at 27" you can use software and hardware decoders upscale videos to make better use of the higher DPI. Both are not optimal in normal monitor usage scenarios for watching video. If you already own a TV like I do, you can use the 1440p monitor for gaming and work, and then output to the TV for watching videos and watch from a couch. Using a TV as a primary screen is abysmal.


----------



## hrockh

found this table which could help.
table found at:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/QH270-IPSBS-Achieva-ShiMian-27-Monitor-Speaker-16-9-2560x1440-Wide-LED-QHD-DVI-/320876477886?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab5ba7dbe


----------



## darrenb123

Hey so I finally got my pc set up and was wondering if there was a video tutorial on calibrating this monitor. I read the first post but still very confused. I am also noticing that dvds show better on my Mac. Video on this looks very grainy and low quality. Could this be a video card issue? I have the GTX560 Ti 448. I also started Old Republic and noticed that the cinematics were a little choppy, but in-game the graphics are awesome.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> What 32 inch led 1080p tv would u recommend for my situation ??????. I guess the 2560x1440 isnt really going to do me anygood for watching blu rays, hd tv, and general computing.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00752RACW


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Hey so I finally got my pc set up and was wondering if there was a video tutorial on calibrating this monitor. I read the first post but still very confused. I am also noticing that dvds show better on my Mac. Video on this looks very grainy and low quality. Could this be a video card issue? I have the GTX560 Ti 448. I also started Old Republic and noticed that the cinematics were a little choppy, but in-game the graphics are awesome.


1) Go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ and follow the instructions. About as good as you're gonna get without a hardware calibrator.

2) You're noticing that DVDs show better on whatever Mac you have because the resolution of a DVD is low. Similarly, the resolution of your Mac is probably low. When you look at low quality video on a high quality panel, it will look "very grainy and low quality". Is this your first time looking at a high resolution screen? Because even on a 1080p panel it becomes obvious how ugly 480p DVDs look when stretched out. Since you're now looking at 1440p, the quality difference is even more exaggerated. I was kinda hoping this stuff didn't have to be explained here, on a tech forum where you have all of these facts sitting right in front of you, but here we are.

Imagine you just bought a 4K TV and just turned it on. Now imagine you put your old DVD in it. Yeah, it's gonna look like crap, and yeah, it's time for you to upgrade to Bluray or high definition streaming video already...

3) I don't have SWTOR and so I don't know what the cinematic scenes are like, but it could be that the upconversion during CGI cutscenes is upscaled and not playing correctly. If your regular gameplay is fine, though, then I have no idea outside of MAYBE your video codecs causing choppiness due to GPU decoding acceleration not playing smoothly.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> 1) Go to http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/ and follow the instructions. About as good as you're gonna get without a hardware calibrator.
> 2) You're noticing that DVDs show better on whatever Mac you have because the resolution of a DVD is low. Similarly, the resolution of your Mac is probably low. When you look at low quality video on a high quality panel, it will look "very grainy and low quality". Is this your first time looking at a high resolution screen? Because even on a 1080p panel it becomes obvious how ugly 480p DVDs look when stretched out. Since you're now looking at 1440p, the quality difference is even more exaggerated. I was kinda hoping this stuff didn't have to be explained here, on a tech forum where you have all of these facts sitting right in front of you, but here we are.
> Imagine you just bought a 4K TV and just turned it on. Now imagine you put your old DVD in it. Yeah, it's gonna look like crap, and yeah, it's time for you to upgrade to Bluray or high definition streaming video already...
> 3) I don't have SWTOR and so I don't know what the cinematic scenes are like, but it could be that the upconversion during CGI cutscenes is upscaled and not playing correctly. If your regular gameplay is fine, though, then I have no idea outside of MAYBE your video codecs causing choppiness due to GPU decoding acceleration not playing smoothly.


I used a Mac for the past 5 years of my life. This is my first gaming rig so I apologize for the newb questions on a tech forum. I'll look for another so people don't have to explain stupid questions/inquiries. And yes this is my first high resolution screen.


----------



## Neo Mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00752RACW


Thats the tv i was thinking of getting. It just seems to fit my situation i need a hd tv, and computer monitor to do it correctly.


----------



## kastachu

I purchased a pair of these monitors last month and have been having a slightly annoying, reproduce-able issue with them. Let's say they are monitor A and B. When both monitors are off/asleep, and I turn on both monitors before moving my mouse to unsleep them, monitor A's screen will be garbled and I'll have to turn it on/off to fix the problem.

I took a picture of what the garbled screen looks like:
http://i.imgur.com/l3n6a.jpg

I tried swapping the monitor cables with each other, but the problem continued to occur on monitor A, which leads me to exclude the included dual dvi cables as the problem. I've found a fix that works sporadically: if I move my mouse to "unsleep" my monitors, before turning them on from an off state, the chances of a garbled monitor A screen are greatly reduced.

System specs:
i7-2600K w/ 16GB ram
Windows 7 64-bit
Asus P8P67 Motherboard
EVGA GTX 570 Superclocked

I couldn't find a relevant FAQ/link in the OP and was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem? Many thanks in advance!


----------



## SkyPC

Today I returned from Easter holidays, and turned my pc on, got the same mushed collor stuff you did. Was quite scared thinking it went broke over these past days, but a simple of and on fixed it. Didnt try with or wito ut moving mause when switching on pc, will try tomorrow. But this was the first time this thing accured for me withing 2 weeks of use +-


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> What 32 inch led 1080p tv would u recommend for my situation ??????. I guess the 2560x1440 isnt really going to do me anygood for watching blu rays, hd tv, and general computing. Kinda a noob at this and trying to get information, i just know ips is something i need from reading, maybe catsleap makes a nice 1920x1080 ips monitor.


It's hard to recomend one right now because everyone has just about flushed their inventory of 2011 models out and a lot of the 2012 are untested. I can tell you for sure to stay away from the CS560 line from LG though as it is terrible when it comes to 24p video playback. They also stripped a ton of options and processing from it. Out of what's left on the market from 2011, I would say the LG 32LK450 is your best choice should you decide to go with a TV. It will do 4:4:4 via a DVI>HDMI cable (you'll need to do an EDID override if you have a Nividia card) so you won't have to use an analogue (VGA) signal and they were by far one of the most popular TVs in 2011 for use as a monitor. The catch is there is a panel lottery so it could me an A-MVA panel (CUSD product code) or a S-IPS (CUSY product code).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Well i cant afford monitor and tv, hmmm im thinking hd tv is out, hmmm i may have to get the catsleap, although i dont know if i would use the 2500x1440 ever, i do play some games now and then, it just like a great monitor for the price. Im just thinking im not going to beat the ips quality and size of this monitor anywhere. Since you have exp in using hd Tvs for monitors and that sort of stuff, would you say t hat this catsleap is a good choice for my kinda use ? i need to get something fast, and thanks for everybodys help.


The Korean monitors are an incredible buy but, an incredible buy doesn't mean it's the right fit. You are the only one that can decide what the right fit is though. If you don't need a larger screen size or the extra inputs on the TV or an OSD or a warranty and are OK with taking a risk, then the Korean monitors are probably what you would want. If you need any of those things then the TV would likely be the better fit. Think about what you need now and what you might need later.

For what it's worth, the loss in pixel density doesn't affect everyone. I had no problem with the pixel density on a 32" 1920x1080 TV and this is coming from someone that can see the pixels on a 1280x1024 monitor. However on a 37" 1920x1080 TV the further loss of pixel density came into play and created a "screen door effect" that also created a "shimmer" when you changed your viewing angle. I personally would never go bigger than a 32" for PC usage and don;t waste your time with a TV under 32" because they are all TN panels and not worth the money.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00752RACW
> 
> 
> 
> Thats the tv i was thinking of getting. It just seems to fit my situation i need a hd tv, and computer monitor to do it correctly.
Click to expand...

That is a bad choice as you will be stuck using VGA for the PC and using an analogue signal on a digital display is a waste. The LG 32LK450 is cheaper at Amazon and it's a better TV in general and was well received as a monitor at both [H] and AVS. As I said earlier though, think about what you need now, what you need in the future, and then decide what's best for you. Don't rush into a display because you need one "soon" as it will only lead to buyer's remorse or other issues. Please weigh the decision carefully.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Racer J*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> What 32 inch led 1080p tv would u recommend for my situation ??????. I guess the 2560x1440 isnt really going to do me anygood for watching blu rays, hd tv, and general computing. Kinda a noob at this and trying to get information, i just know ips is something i need from reading, maybe catsleap makes a nice 1920x1080 ips monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> It's hard to recomend one right now because everyone has just about flushed their inventory of 2011 models out and a lot of the 2012 are untested. I can tell you for sure to stay away from the CS560 line from LG though as it is terrible when it comes to 24p video playback. They also stripped a ton of options and processing from it. Out of what's left on the market from 2011, I would say the LG 32LK450 is your best choice should you decide to go with a TV. It will do 4:4:4 via a DVI>HDMI cable (you'll need to do an EDID override if you have a Nividia card) so you won't have to use an analogue (VGA) signal and they were by far one of the most popular TVs in 2011 for use as a monitor. The catch is there is a panel lottery so it could me an A-MVA panel (CUSD product code) or a S-IPS (CUSY product code).
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Well i cant afford monitor and tv, hmmm im thinking hd tv is out, hmmm i may have to get the catsleap, although i dont know if i would use the 2500x1440 ever, i do play some games now and then, it just like a great monitor for the price. Im just thinking im not going to beat the ips quality and size of this monitor anywhere. Since you have exp in using hd Tvs for monitors and that sort of stuff, would you say t hat this catsleap is a good choice for my kinda use ? i need to get something fast, and thanks for everybodys help.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The Korean monitors are an incredible buy but, an incredible buy doesn't mean it's the right fit. You are the only one that can decide what the right fit is though. If you don't need a larger screen size or the extra inputs on the TV or an OSD or a warranty and are OK with taking a risk, then the Korean monitors are probably what you would want. If you need any of those things then the TV would likely be the better fit. Think about what you need now and what you might need later.
> 
> For what it's worth, the loss in pixel density doesn't affect everyone. I had no problem with the pixel density on a 32" 1920x1080 TV and this is coming from someone that can see the pixels on a 1280x1024 monitor. However on a 37" 1920x1080 TV the further loss of pixel density came into play and created a "screen door effect" that also created a "shimmer" when you changed your viewing angle. I personally would never go bigger than a 32" for PC usage and don;t waste your time with a TV under 32" because they are all TN panels and not worth the money.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00752RACW
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Thats the tv i was thinking of getting. It just seems to fit my situation i need a hd tv, and computer monitor to do it correctly.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> That is a bad choice as you will be stuck using VGA for the PC and using an analogue signal on a digital display is a waste. The LG 32LK450 is cheaper at Amazon and it's a better TV in general and was well received as a monitor at both [H] and AVS. As I said earlier though, think about what you need now, what you need in the future, and then decide what's best for you. Don't rush into a display because you need one "soon" as it will only lead to buyer's remorse or other issues. Please weigh the decision carefully.
Click to expand...

Go PM with these comments please - they don't belong here in the Club. Thanks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kastachu*
> 
> I purchased a pair of these monitors last month and have been having a slightly annoying, reproduce-able issue with them. Let's say they are monitor A and B. When both monitors are off/asleep, and I turn on both monitors before moving my mouse to unsleep them, monitor A's screen will be garbled and I'll have to turn it on/off to fix the problem.
> 
> I took a picture of what the garbled screen looks like:
> http://i.imgur.com/l3n6a.jpg
> 
> I tried swapping the monitor cables with each other, but the problem continued to occur on monitor A, which leads me to exclude the included dual dvi cables as the problem. I've found a fix that works sporadically: if I move my mouse to "unsleep" my monitors, before turning them on from an off state, the chances of a garbled monitor A screen are greatly reduced.
> 
> System specs:
> i7-2600K w/ 16GB ram
> Windows 7 64-bit
> Asus P8P67 Motherboard
> EVGA GTX 570 Superclocked
> 
> I couldn't find a relevant FAQ/link in the OP and was wondering if anyone has experienced this problem? Many thanks in advance!


I have yet to experience this issue with mine. Here are some things to try: First, swap the connections on your GPU (not the just the cables). Then try swapping the main screens - A/B - in Windows. Then try using only one monitor at a time from the "offending" GPU port if there is one. If the problem swaps from monitor to monitor depending on its location on the GPU and/or main screen in Windows then you know it isn't the monitor itself. Report back!


----------



## Neo Mike

Great information thanks. Looks like a good Lg, but i want LED, thanks for all your help.


----------



## Grizzlymann

Is it true 120hz or just the made up pseudo 120hz for marketing sake?


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> That(32LK450) is a *60Hz VA Panel* TV.
> The one(TC-L32E5) I recommended is a *120hz ISP panel* TV.


Is that a true 120hz, that takes a 120hz input from a pc? Or does it take 60 and turn it into 120?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grizzlymann*
> 
> Is it true 120hz or just the made up pseudo 120hz for marketing sake?


Its considered a "TV" so I doubt it.


----------



## necriss

Picked up a 680 today, 126hz on 505 pixel clock


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> That(32LK450) is a *60Hz VA Panel* TV.
> The one(TC-L32E5) I recommended is a *120hz ISP panel* TV.


I have yet to see a single TV that has true 120Hz. I have yet to see any non-monitor above 30" be 120Hz. Mainly just 3D monitors.


----------



## Wage

There are true 120hz 1080p projectors, but if you can afford one of those you're probably on the wrong forum... *directs extremely rich person to AVS Forum =====>*


----------



## Racer J

Despite enraging Scribby I'm going to respond to these last few comments. He asked everyone to stop posting about this topic in this thread though so I don't know why yall failed to follow his request. Please take this conversation to its own thread as it's gotten well past the point of comparing 2560x1440 to 1920x1280. Scribby, I sincerely apologize for going off topic before and now but, this post needs to be made as a result of gross misinformation that could lead both Neo Mike and lurkers down the wrong path when it comes to this topic and it needs to be addressed publicly. I'm surprised all the offending posts haven't been split off yet and, I'm sorry for making yet another one

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> That(32LK450) is a *60Hz VA Panel* TV.
> 
> The one(TC-L32E5) I recommended is a *120hz ISP panel* TV.


Which is pointless because it fakes that refresh rate and it will have twice the input lag as a 60 Hz TV. Don't suggest a TV for PC usage based on the refresh rate. You can go read at AVS why it's a bad idea. I also pointed out that the set you recommended will not do 4:4:4 which means the text will be smeared and it will have problems with colour separation when used as a monitor. Please research TV usage as a monitor before you arbitrarily recommend one to someone as you can't just randomly select a TV for PC usage.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Grizzlymann*
> 
> Is it true 120hz or just the made up pseudo 120hz for marketing sake?


It's fake, they all are and it will add a lot of input lag. You need to use an actual 60 Hz TV that can do 4:4:4 if you plan on using it as a monitor. Then you need to make sure the input lag is 32ms or less. There are threads a mile long dedicated to these issues over at AVS.

All that having been said, please take this conversation to its own thread like Scribby asked. None of this is even remotely relevant anymore to a 2560x1440 display much less a Catleap. People (speaking in generalization and not about any one specifically) are going to start getting more agitated/frustrated/irritated/pissed off than they already are if the derailment continues and it's going to incur the wrath of the staff.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Racer J*
> 
> Please research TV usage as a monitor before you arbitrarily recommend one to someone as you can't just randomly select a TV for PC usage..


The guy realize he didn't want a monitor and suggested what 32" TV is good for movie options and general computing. I recommended him a 32" ISP HDTV.

THIS SHOULD HAVE BEEN THE END OF THE CONVERSATION RIGHT THERE.

Someone here assume I was comparing it to a monitor for hardcore PC usage.

"Randomly" selecting a ISP display for PC side of things was purely random... good lord

As Scribby asked we should end it since everyone got their two cents in.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Picked up a 680 today, 126hz on 505 pixel clock


Good to hear. As you've got that high does this mean you can do 120hz on cold boot with no problems?

I presume the 126hz is a bit of a luck of the draw when it comes to how high the 680's (and hopefully some other newer graphics cards) will allow the ramdac to go. Maybe a list should be compiled at some point of people's success. Shame not many people have 2B monitors.

Please can everyone stop talking about random TVs!!!!!!!


----------



## Sxcerino

Also interested if you could cold boot or overnight wake @ 126hz without problems.


----------



## necriss

Can cold boot into 120hz+ no problems. Although I notice anything above 120hz has miniscule artifacting, this is probably due to LG panel hitting its limit.


----------



## eternal7trance

Well I almost got my Catleap this morning but of course the package needs to be signed for and none of the family was awake like I told them to.


----------



## necriss

Made 2 videos demonstrating the side effects running above 120hz.


----------



## ezmo85

Well I made the leap (no pun intended) last night from green-sum. Tempered Glass and speakers. Hoping to get it within the week, based on shipping times others are seeing... Here's hoping for no dead pixels/backlight issues/adapter issues/fried parts! lol. I'll let you all know when I get it and what condition it's in.


----------



## Sxcerino

Are you getting artifacts if running at 120hz after you sleep the pc/monitor?


----------



## shadow19935

I dont want to read 243 pages but has anyone actually posted a link where these monitors can be had without going to south korea?


----------



## kevinsbane

www.ebay.com

Search for Catleap Q270.


----------



## Neo Mike

Sorry i got the thread going in a different direction. Now its going to be about the catleap, what i want to know is will my ati radeon 5770 run this monitor ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Sorry i got the thread going in a different direction. Now its going to be about the catleap, what i want to know is will my ati radeon 5770 run this monitor ?


Yes. For suitable definitions of "run at respectable framerates".

I got it working perfectly with my HD 5770 in all situations.


----------



## Neo Mike

Cool very good to know i dont have to get another video card, i just got this 5770.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

PCB Update in OP


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Made 2 videos demonstrating the side effects running above 120hz.


Noticed you do some painting, from the videos in your channel. What are your opinions on this monitor in respect to to its color quality and use for painting?


----------



## eternal7trance

Just got my Catleap in. Picture looks great and no dead pixels! It's a 2C model so the max says 60hz in the nvidia control panel.


----------



## Qiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> PCB Update in OP


the wait is unbearable


----------



## y2kcamaross

So excited in hopes that these pcbs end up being for sale, even at 100hz I'll be thrilled

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## Crezzlin

Hi guys, I just put a order in for 3 Catleap monitors to Eyefinity them, it says none speaker version but nothing about the glass.. Anyway to tell from the add.. I did MSG them saying none glass etc.. Thanks


----------



## SkyPC

I am never going to get another nonglass monitor.

The smudging on these are crazy.


----------



## jpao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SkyPC*
> 
> I am never going to get another nonglass monitor.
> The smudging these are crazy, well on any thins kind of monitor in that case.


too many negatives.

so, you got the non-glass or glass one? you like the glass or non-glass one?


----------



## theguz4l

Hi All, I am new to the forums. I've been lurking the past few days, and purchased a Catleap from bigclothcraft.

Question I have about the non-native resolutions:

Say I want to game on a lower 16:9 resolution. (ex. 1920x1080) Will it scale properly on my GTX 480?

I plan on using the native resolution for my desktop, but i'm sure some games will have a tough time keeping up at 2560x1440.

Thanks in advance! Can't wait to get my monitor!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theguz4l*
> 
> Hi All, I am new to the forums. I've been lurking the past few days, and purchased a Catleap from bigclothcraft.
> Question I have about the non-native resolutions:
> Say I want to game on a lower 16:9 resolution. (ex. 1920x1080) Will it scale properly on my GTX 480?
> I plan on using the native resolution for my desktop, but i'm sure some games will have a tough time keeping up at 2560x1440.
> Thanks in advance! Can't wait to get my monitor!


Yes it will scale fine. But if you have a second monitor hooked up, the second monitor will usually look all messed up.


----------



## theguz4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Yes it will scale fine. But if you have a second monitor hooked up, the second monitor will usually look all messed up.


Nope, just the one. Thanks for the answer.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theguz4l*
> 
> Nope, just the one. Thanks for the answer.


it'll scale, but it's not gonna look good


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Are you getting artifacts if running at 120hz after you sleep the pc/monitor?


120hz is perfect, cold boots fine no artifacts.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> Noticed you do some painting, from the videos in your channel. What are your opinions on this monitor in respect to to its color quality and use for painting?


2B has tiny scanlines, which aren't really visible at 60hz but bit of a problem at 120hz. So for digital work I'd go back down to 60hz. 2C doesn't have this problem afaik. Colors are superb. So go ahead and pick one up if it won't be used for gaming.


----------



## Sxcerino

In the videos you posted, those look like scan lines too; are they just emphasized @ 120+hz?


----------



## eshiku

anyone know if Asus 6850 (EAH6850) will work with Catleap ? will it be able to handle games (mw3, bf3) at high settings?


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> anyone know if Asus 6850 will work with Catleap ? And will it be able to handle games (mw3, bf3) at high settings?


I received my 3View SB2700 Super today, so I'll test it on my old XFX 6850 (now my girlfriend's) and also on my old XFX 5770 (now put aside as an emergency backup to my Sapphire 7970) and let you know how it goes. But without even testing I can answer most of this:

1) Yes, a Radeon HD 6850 will work with any of the 2560x1440p panels being sold right now, and your Asus model is no exception. (However, I do not know if some of the other models are without a Dual DVI port.)

2) No, a Radeon HD 6850 will not have enough power to run Battlefield 3 on High settings at 2560x1440p. However, it will be fine for lower settings, provided you turn AA completely off.

3) Yes, a Radeon HD 6850 will have enough power to run MW3 on High Settings at 2560x1440p; however, I have not played this yet, so I'm just speaking from second-hand experience. (And also from knowing that MW3 is a console port and doesn't require much power to run at max settings because of this.)


----------



## djjuno

Got mine today in the mail! It took 5 days holy crap! lol


----------



## djjuno

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> I received my 3View SB2700 Super today, so I'll test it on my old XFX 6850 (now my girlfriend's) and also on my old XFX 5770 (now put aside as an emergency backup to my Sapphire 7970) and let you know how it goes. But without even testing I can answer most of this:
> 1) Yes, a Radeon HD 6850 will work with any of the 2560x1440p panels being sold right now, and your Asus model is no exception. (However, I do not know if some of the other models are without a Dual DVI port.)
> 2) No, a Radeon HD 6850 will not have enough power to run Battlefield 3 on High settings at 2560x1440p. However, it will be fine for lower settings, provided you turn AA completely off.
> 3) Yes, a Radeon HD 6850 will have enough power to run MW3 on High Settings at 2560x1440p; however, I have not played this yet, so I'm just speaking from second-hand experience. (And also from knowing that MW3 is a console port and doesn't require much power to run at max settings because of this.)


I plugged it into my xfx 6870 and there was a bunch of blue lines. I tried different drivers and resolutions and no go.. I need to rma the card to xfx the second time







I really hate XFX. So I put in my old HD4800 and it works like a charm. Super huge.. I'm still getting used it. Dota 2 looks great though.. Just wish I had a better video card to run it..


----------



## Phenrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> anyone know if Asus 6850 (EAH6850) will work with Catleap ? will it be able to handle games (mw3, bf3) at high settings?


My non-reference HIS HD 6850 works perfectly (shows the BIOS screen) on the catleap. It runs BF3 at 35-40 fps (smooth enough for me) with everything on high @ 2560x1440 except shadows and antialiasing post with motion blur turned off. I have the card clocked at 950 core, 1153 memory.


----------



## michaelcku

I have a Dell 15Z. GT525M Video card. Updated Driver via NVIDIA.

Problem is I just purchased a Yamasaki Catleap Q270 monitor. It is a (2560x1440) monitor with only a Dual DVI-D out.

15Z only has HDMI and a Mini Display Port.

I got a Active Dual DVI-D to Mini Display Port Active Adapter(Linked Below).
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2

The Setup works when i plug it into my Macbook air 13.3. However when I plug it into my 15Z it doesn't work. Tried everything I can think of. Window control P. FN and F1. It just doesn't work.

I believe the issue lies in the Mini Display Port but i can't be sure. No matter what i do, the Mini Display Port doesn't get recognized.

Spent 3 hours on the phone with the XPS Tech team. They simply said it was not compatible....

Any help or suggestion would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> In the videos you posted, those look like scan lines too; are they just emphasized @ 120+hz?


Its more noticeable on high hz and mainly on static imagery therefore games are largely unaffected.


----------



## SkyPC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpao*
> 
> too many negatives.
> so, you got the non-glass or glass one? you like the glass or non-glass one?


I have the one with out the glass, and yes my previous post has mistakes. Engrish to English translate mutch?

Due to the face that you cant really apply pressure when you clean it, the cleaning takes a long time and it smears across the monitor leaving wipe marks/residue.


----------



## Julez007

What can you guys say about the performance on 60hz? Is it that bad that it needs to be overclocked?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007*
> 
> What can you guys say about the performance on 60hz? Is it that bad that it needs to be overclocked?


Been running my 2c model at 60hz since day one, and it looks phenomenal to me. No issues whatsoever for me.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007*
> 
> What can you guys say about the performance on 60hz? Is it that bad that it needs to be overclocked?


It's no worse than any other LCD made in the past 10 years - but higher is better as can be attested by old school CRT and 120Hz LCD users.


----------



## Wage

Correction: I'll receive the PB2700 Super sometime today (Tuesday) -_-

For some reason DHL had put in my tracking that the package was "Out for Delivery" as of 4:30PM my time, so I figured it would be delivered to my shipping address a little after 5PM. Just got back from that house and nothing had been delivered, so I'll just assume it's going to be delivered today before 5PM PST.


----------



## fsrick

When you guys buy it on ebay, how do you know which model you are getting? I do not see any Q270 with speakers and glass on ebay. Do I need to contact the seller first?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fsrick*
> 
> When you guys buy it on ebay, how do you know which model you are getting? I do not see any Q270 with speakers and glass on ebay. Do I need to contact the seller first?


All I did was put "Q270 with speakers and glass" in ebay's search, and was returned with 2 listings:

Here.


----------



## skalmanman

My screen just arrived! I ordered the one with tempered glass and no speakers from green-sum on march 30th.
I live in Sweden and I only had to pay 240 SEK for the customs fee.

The screen looks perfect - no dead or stuck pixels that I can see, and I got the 2B model!








To my untrained eyes the colors look pretty good out of the box, only just a little bit too much green.
Gonna try to overclock it later today.


----------



## Wage

Congrats, skalmanman! Can you post some pictures if you get a chance?

Also, 240 SEK = $35.50 USD (just sharing for anyone else, since I had to look it up v_v)


----------



## Goodfella

Well, looks like my power brick is dead. Woke up today to and noticed that the power indicator light on the monitor was off, tried turning it on and nothing happened. I checked the indicator light on the brick and that was off. Time to hit ebay for a replacement.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Julez007*
> 
> What can you guys say about the performance on 60hz? Is it that bad that it needs to be overclocked?


I've been gathering the posts on this topic here
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/1400_100#post_16797012

It's also accessible from the OP via the input lag section. There are pics and videos on 60hz and some comparisons when oced.


----------



## ae-?a

Ok something I haven't seen brought up yet thus far. Another advantage of this monitor not being picky about input (even the 2C model is that it will take lower refresh rates as well.

What does this mean? It means you can drive the monitor off single-link DVI. This is nice for older laptops (or computers) that don't have dual link DVI. It seems pretty fine for most stuff other than gaming. Hell I am used to a lower refresh rate as single link maxes out at around 41 Hz for me and that is what a previous monitor I had did at its maximum refresh (Viewsonic VP2290b/IBM T221 9503-DG3).

Here was my test on my laptop:

Code:



Code:


(--) NVIDIA(0): Connected display device(s) on GeForce Go 7900 GTX at
(--) NVIDIA(0):     PCI:1:0:0:
(--) NVIDIA(0):     DFP-1
(--) NVIDIA(0): DFP-1: 165.0 MHz maximum pixel clock
(--) NVIDIA(0): DFP-1: Internal Single Link TMDS
(--) NVIDIA(0): DFP-1: Native FlatPanel Scaling is not supported
(--) NVIDIA(0): DFP-1: DFP modes are not limited to 60 Hz refresh rate
(--) NVIDIA(0): DFP-1: DFP is not internal to notebook

Code:



Code:


(II) NVIDIA(0):   Validating Mode "2560x1440":
(II) NVIDIA(0):     2560 x 1440 @ 41 Hz
(II) NVIDIA(0):     Mode Source: X Configuration file ModeLine
(II) NVIDIA(0):       Pixel Clock      : 165.00 MHz
(II) NVIDIA(0):       HRes, HSyncStart : 2560, 2592
(II) NVIDIA(0):       HSyncEnd, HTotal : 2612, 2692
(II) NVIDIA(0):       VRes, VSyncStart : 1440, 1443
(II) NVIDIA(0):       VSyncEnd, VTotal : 1448, 1480
(II) NVIDIA(0):       H/V Polarity     : +/+(II) NVIDIA(0):     Mode is valid.

Appears to be working just fine. Using anything over 165 Mhz gave me a black screen. Could be the driver trying to switch to dual link or something... Not sure.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Hi Folks,

My Catleap Q270 is shipped yesterday to Canada with DHL, purchased it from bigclothcraft on Sunday evening. He asked few questions regarding my GPU and some personal info.
Crossing my finger there would be no custom and high tax with it. I know some members from Canada mentioned that as long as it is stated as gift with value of $100 it would be OK, crossing my fingers!
Hope it would be a perfect screen as well, would be better if it's the 2B version.

Anybody bought theirs from bigclothcraft and shipped with DHL? Just would like to know whether there is any issue experienced. Thanks!


----------



## tcboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-Q270-SE-/140729187593?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41cfd09]
> 
> 
> 
> TS should put in first post that laptop are not supported
> Maybe the q270 led MULTI version could support it
> I am not sure thou, but some1 who bought the MULTI version says it support ps3 on 1080p with hdmi input


requote again
seems like there are quite some laptop users who bought this dvi only monitor


----------



## fsrick

will the tempered glass add more reflection to the monitor? do you guys prefer the on with/without glass?
The monitor does not have OSD, so we only can adjust the setting with 3rd party software, right?
Thanks a lot.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Anybody bought theirs from bigclothcraft and shipped with DHL? Just would like to know whether there is any issue experienced. Thanks!


I have bought 2 from him. Got the first in 3 days,no problems at all. Second one is on its way. Both monitors are 2b version!









sent from galaxy far far away


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fsrick*
> 
> will the tempered glass add more reflection to the monitor? do you guys prefer the on with/without glass?
> The monitor does not have OSD, so we only can adjust the setting with 3rd party software, right?
> Thanks a lot.


It will add some more reflection; how much is debatable. The consensus is that it's only useful for protecting the screen or making it easier to clean smudges; it's not an improvement in image quality in any way (some people seem to like the aesthetics though). There is absolutely no OSD; all you get is brightness (backlight) adjustment. All other adjustments must be done through software (typically your graphics card drivers).


----------



## Soups

Also ordered a catleap to Canada on Sunday from bigclothcraft . Shipping is DHL but I had no idea it was DHL till PurdueCIA stated his came that way. The link off ebay wasn't working so I just plugged the tracking number into the DHL website and it reveals its particulars. All is well. In response to the query from shipper I had stated the standard mark as gift with $100 value.

Will update when it arrives.


----------



## eternal7trance

How do we tell what other kind of stands will work with this monitor?


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> How do we tell what other kind of stands will work with this monitor?


It uses a standard VESA mount so any VESA mount should work. OP I think shows the size, 100x100 IIRC?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> It uses a standard VESA mount so any VESA mount should work. OP I think shows the size, 100x100 IIRC?


It is VESA mount compatible, but it's 75mm by 75mm. Also, the monitor comes with a stupid piece of plastic covering the mount, so you'll need to bust/hack it off if you don't want to disassemble the monitor, or open up the monitor and remove it properly. It's not that tough to disassemble anyways, so that's what most people do who need access to the VESA mount (there's guides in the OP on this)


----------



## eternal7trance

I compared this monitor side by side with my friends 2560x1440 Apple 27inch display. They look exactly the same. It makes me laugh that this monitor can be had for around 350 vs the 1000 you pay for the Apple one.


----------



## iakona

Do some of these catleaps q270 SE's have speaker grills on the back and volume buttons, yet no actual speakers. As I can't hear any sound when I hook them up to my PC and don't want to actually take the incasing apart to find out if there are actually speakers?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iakona*
> 
> Do some of these catleaps q270 SE's have speaker grills on the back and volume buttons, yet no actual speakers. As I can't hear any sound when I hook them up to my PC and don't want to actually take the incasing apart to find out if there are actually speakers?


Yes they have the grill and buttons, but no speakers are in the se model

sent from galaxy far far away


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iakona*
> 
> Do some of these catleaps q270 SE's have speaker grills on the back and volume buttons, yet no actual speakers. As I can't hear any sound when I hook them up to my PC and don't want to actually take the incasing apart to find out if there are actually speakers?


My SE has speaker grills but no speakers in them. I'm glad cause I wouldn't use them anyways.


----------



## AlienGod

Got a quick question, my current laptop has 3670m radeon graphics, will it be able to support the catleap using hdmi to dvi-d adapter? Thanks.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlienGod*
> 
> Got a quick question, my current laptop has 3670m radeon graphics, will it be able to support the catleap using hdmi to dvi-d adapter? Thanks.


This question has been answered quite a few times, but to make it easier, no.

HDMI can not be converted to Dual Link DVI for 2560x1440.


----------



## AlienGod

Thanks for super quick response but does that mean I could use lower resolution?


----------



## bigmac11

Just ordered for $340 thru bigclothcraft and hope I get a 2B in good condition


----------



## Sfuor

*bigmac11*
Does he have 2b?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AlienGod*
> 
> Thanks for super quick response but does that mean I could use lower resolution?


ae-?a suggested a possible alternative for running the monitor at reduced refresh rate over single-link DVI (or HDMI) - you're welcome to try something like this if you must get it working to that notebook. Normally though, the monitor requires dual-link DVI or Displayport with an *active* converter to work to its rated spec.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfuor*
> 
> *bigmac11*
> Does he have 2b?


No idea, but a few people mentioned receiveng 2B's from him. Here's to hoping


----------



## seg//fault

Just got my Catleap today! It arrived at my door on the east coast of the US just 39 hours after I placed the order. No glass, no speakers. DVI cable was junk; display would totally blank randomly between 20 and 30 seconds after turning it on, green light stayed on. Put a new cable on and its working. I have the brightness gradient that a lot of people in this thread are talking about, but at least I have 0 dead pixels!

Here's a pic. googled "colorful iMac wallpaper" so I can bask in the IPS glory


----------



## theguz4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seg//fault*
> 
> Just got my Catleap today! It arrived at my door on the east coast of the US just 39 hours after I placed the order. No glass, no speakers. DVI cable was junk; display would totally blank randomly between 20 and 30 seconds after turning it on, green light stayed on. Put a new cable on and its working. I have the brightness gradient that a lot of people in this thread are talking about, but at least I have 0 dead pixels!
> Here's a pic. googled "colorful iMac wallpaper" so I can bask in the IPS glory


Nice... who did you order it from?


----------



## theguz4l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> I have bought 2 from him. Got the first in 3 days,no problems at all. Second one is on its way. Both monitors are 2b version!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> sent from galaxy far far away


How did you get a 2B from him? I asked him (Jason) and he said that they only had 2C version.


----------



## ezmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seg//fault*
> 
> Just got my Catleap today! It arrived at my door on the east coast of the US just 39 hours after I placed the order. No glass, no speakers. DVI cable was junk; display would totally blank randomly between 20 and 30 seconds after turning it on, green light stayed on. Put a new cable on and its working. I have the brightness gradient that a lot of people in this thread are talking about, but at least I have 0 dead pixels!
> Here's a pic. googled "colorful iMac wallpaper" so I can bask in the IPS glory


Just out of curiosity, who did you order from?


----------



## Wage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> anyone know if Asus 6850 (EAH6850) will work with Catleap ? will it be able to handle games (mw3, bf3) at high settings?


eshiku,

As promised, I am writing this message from my girlfriend's XFX 6850 on the 3View PCBank PB2700 Super.

The XFX 6850 is completely compatible with this monitor and shows post and BIOS just fine. However, I am noticing some performance lag while doing nothing more than browsing the web. I built her machine very similar to mine, only with an Antec P183 case, motherboard sound (she doesn't care) and an XFX 6850. I also upgraded her very old OS drive to a Pyro 240GB SSD last week, so yeah, I doubt it's the rest of her system slowing anything down.

Also, slowdown does not occur while typing, only while scrolling web pages or resizing windows. This is what leads me to believe that the lag is GPU-performance-based, and it is definitely not ghosting. (Furthermore, without doing a real test, this does not appear to be input lag, since my 90WPM typing speed seems unaffected visually. I haven't tried a game yet, though)

In short, it'll work, but for proper performance you might want to get another 6850 on the cheap and run them together if your motherboard supports crossfire. I'm not saying I wouldn't be able to live with this -- it's really fine -- but the performance difference is noticeable between this and what things were on her Dell U2311 a moment ago. It's sort of like when you run an HD video on an old S775 machine. It works fine, but the experience is not as baby smooth as using a more modern machine.

I'll test this on my 7970 and 5770 when I get home.


----------



## Crezzlin

Has anyone got pics of the Catleap without bezel yet. Thanks


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> anyone know if Asus 6850 (EAH6850) will work with Catleap ? will it be able to handle games (mw3, bf3) at high settings?
> 
> 
> 
> eshiku,
> 
> As promised, I am writing this message from my girlfriend's XFX 6850 on the 3View PCBank PB2700 Super.
> 
> The XFX 6850 is completely compatible with this monitor and shows post and BIOS just fine. However, I am noticing some performance lag while doing nothing more than browsing the web. I built her machine very similar to mine, only with an Antec P183 case, motherboard sound (she doesn't care) and an XFX 6850. I also upgraded her very old OS drive to a Pyro 240GB SSD last week, so yeah, I doubt it's the rest of her system slowing anything down.
> 
> Also, slowdown does not occur while typing, only while scrolling web pages or resizing windows. This is what leads me to believe that the lag is GPU-performance-based, and it is definitely not ghosting. (Furthermore, without doing a real test, this does not appear to be input lag, since my 90WPM typing speed seems unaffected visually. I haven't tried a game yet, though)
> 
> In short, it'll work, but for proper performance you might want to get another 6850 on the cheap and run them together if your motherboard supports crossfire. I'm not saying I wouldn't be able to live with this -- it's really fine -- but the performance difference is noticeable between this and what things were on her Dell U2311 a moment ago. It's sort of like when you run an HD video on an old S775 machine. It works fine, but the experience is not as baby smooth as using a more modern machine.
> 
> I'll test this on my 7970 and 5770 when I get home.
Click to expand...

If you run a Gpu stess test in the background does it fix the problem, does the Gpu throttle back on desktop use..


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Has anyone got pics of the Catleap without bezel yet. Thanks


?? With it removed?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> anyone know if Asus 6850 (EAH6850) will work with Catleap ? will it be able to handle games (mw3, bf3) at high settings?
> 
> 
> 
> eshiku,
> 
> As promised, I am writing this message from my girlfriend's XFX 6850 on the 3View PCBank PB2700 Super.
> 
> The XFX 6850 is completely compatible with this monitor and shows post and BIOS just fine. However, I am noticing some performance lag while doing nothing more than browsing the web. I built her machine very similar to mine, only with an Antec P183 case, motherboard sound (she doesn't care) and an XFX 6850. I also upgraded her very old OS drive to a Pyro 240GB SSD last week, so yeah, I doubt it's the rest of her system slowing anything down.
> 
> Also, slowdown does not occur while typing, only while scrolling web pages or resizing windows. This is what leads me to believe that the lag is GPU-performance-based, and it is definitely not ghosting. (Furthermore, without doing a real test, this does not appear to be input lag, since my 90WPM typing speed seems unaffected visually. I haven't tried a game yet, though)
> 
> In short, it'll work, but for proper performance you might want to get another 6850 on the cheap and run them together if your motherboard supports crossfire. I'm not saying I wouldn't be able to live with this -- it's really fine -- but the performance difference is noticeable between this and what things were on her Dell U2311 a moment ago. It's sort of like when you run an HD video on an old S775 machine. It works fine, but the experience is not as baby smooth as using a more modern machine.
> 
> I'll test this on my 7970 and 5770 when I get home.
Click to expand...

This is the Catleap Club - not the PCBank Club - please post accordingly. I understand you are using a similar panel, but PCBs differ across platforms apparently. Thanks.


----------



## Wage

Yeah, and I had told him before that I would test this for him. You want to have a mod remove my post, then go ahead, otherwise I'd appreciate it if you would keep stuff like that in a PM.

Are you serious with this? This isn't your thread, nor is it your forum. If I want to discuss another panel which is similar to the one in this thread, then I will. It's about as off topic as discussing a different flavor of ice cream in a Vanilla Lovers thread. Give me a break, buddy


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Well i cant afford monitor and tv, hmmm im thinking hd tv is out, hmmm i may have to get the catsleap, although i dont know if i would use the 2500x1440 ever, i do play some games now and then, it just like a great monitor for the price. Im just thinking im not going to beat the ips quality and size of this monitor anywhere. Since you have exp in using hd Tvs for monitors and that sort of stuff, would you say t hat this catsleap is a good choice for my kinda use ? i need to get something fast, and thanks for everybodys help.


Definitely. I have been doing a lot of gaming on the Catleap recently and it is amazing, fast response times, godly resolution and image quality, a superb choice especially when considering the price. I would go with the Catleap myself. Which I did! I also have a 30", 2560x1600 S-IPS Dell UltraSharp and I've replaced it with the Catleap, something I didn't think would happen.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> eshiku,
> As promised, I am writing this message from my girlfriend's XFX 6850 on the 3View PCBank PB2700 Super.
> ...
> Also, slowdown does not occur while typing, only while scrolling web pages or resizing windows. This is what leads me to believe that the lag is GPU-performance-based, and it is definitely not ghosting. (Furthermore, without doing a real test, this does not appear to be input lag, since my 90WPM typing speed seems unaffected visually. I haven't tried a game yet, though)


I find this pretty hard to believe - there is absolutely no way a 6850 should show any kind of slowdown in 2D applications at all with this kind of configuration. The only place you should see a difference is in 3D/Gaming apps; are you sure you're using the latest drivers straight from AMD?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

@Wage - Give me a break buddy. You are not the one having to shift through 2500 posts to keep the OP up to date. I only asked to keep it relevant to the Catleap - hence the comment about similar panels. We have had several people go way off topic in this thread and it only wastes everyone's time when that happens.

I am not modding posts - just trying to keep this on target.


----------



## Wage

Yes, I'm sure the drivers/CCC is up to date.

It's less a "lag" than it is like a frame of hesitation. Perhaps because of the smaller resolution this wasn't as obvious to my eyes? For example, when resizing from windowed to full screen Firefox, I can now see the frames during resize instead of one blur.

Or perhaps her Dell U2311, being E-IPS and slower response time, did not show that extra frame? In any case, I don't want to go too off topic here, else I'll the hall monitor might blow his whistle again. I'll take your comment into consideration, test things, then reply on that other thread. You know, the one where we can actually discuss things?

And like I said, please take it to PM. Gracias mi amigo, gracias


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Yes, I'm sure the drivers/CCC is up to date.
> 
> It's less a "lag" than it is like a frame of hesitation. Perhaps because of the smaller resolution this wasn't as obvious to my eyes? For example, when resizing from windowed to full screen Firefox, I can now see the frames during resize instead of one blur.
> 
> Or perhaps her Dell U2311, being E-IPS and slower response time, did not show that extra frame? In any case, I don't want to go too off topic here, else I'll the hall monitor might blow his whistle again. I'll take your comment into consideration, test things, then reply on that other thread. You know, the one where we can actually discuss things?
> 
> And like I said, please take it to PM. Gracias mi amigo, gracias


You're asking me to PM when you didn't? Wow. Look you clearly missed my point and got your panties bunched. I simply wanted to make sure you kept it relevant to all Catleap owners, which you are. I didn't want you to start going on about specifics to thePC Bank monitor. So take it as you want, but my point is still relevant. Sorry you cannot take a little corrective request in a 2500 post thread.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theguz4l*
> 
> How did you get a 2B from him? I asked him (Jason) and he said that they only had 2C version.


Ordered a SE and when it arrived it was a 2b. After i set it up, i emailed him to see if he had any more. He replied saying he had a 2b and a 2c. So i ordered another and he sent the 2b just got it today too







. He didnt realize there was a difference between them, and he told me that the manufacture controls what models are sent to him ( and all the other sellers Im assuming ).


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Yeah, and I had told him before that I would test this for him. You want to have a mod remove my post, then go ahead, otherwise I'd appreciate it if you would keep stuff like that in a PM.
> Are you serious with this? This isn't your thread, nor is it your forum. If I want to discuss another panel which is similar to the one in this thread, then I will. It's about as off topic as discussing a different flavor of ice cream in a Vanilla Lovers thread. Give me a break, buddy


I don't see anything you did wrong.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-Q270-SE-/140729187593?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c41cfd09]


Can someone confirm if the the above table is correct with regards to the ati cards being incompatible? How can it be that they are not compatible considering they explicitly support 2560x1440 over DVI? I have 6770 and get bios screen and everything.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seg//fault*
> 
> DVI cable was junk; display would totally blank randomly between 20 and 30 seconds after turning it on, green light stayed on. Put a new cable on and its working.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2150629/width/600/height/402


The provided DVI didn't work? Where did you get the cable you you replace it with?


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> Anyway, my catleap is also leaning to the right side
> i rmb i saw some1 posted the same, he use some plastic waste cup to stack up and hold the monitor from leaning to the right
> any1 else the same? how to solve this in a better way beside buying a vesa mount?


Just put something under one side of the base , like this:

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/296/fixm.jpg

About 5mm thick should do.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> ]
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [/URL]


^ The above table is a load of junk as there are 2 owners with 5770's and 2 with 5850's who are running this monitor.

Is it safe to assume that any video card capable of 2560x1440 over dual link DVI will run this monitor? I can't imagine why it would not be.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> Is it safe to assume that any video card capable of 2560x1440 over dual link DVI will run this monitor? I can't imagine why it would not be.


Logic would dictate this to be true, and I have seen no hard evidence to the contrary. I think that if you've got a dual-link DVI you're fine regardless of what card you have.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Has anyone got pics of the Catleap without bezel yet. Thanks


Here you go. See second pic.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/1320#post_16784901


----------



## Aquineas

I've already got two of these bad-boys for my PC, but I may be getting a Mac-Mini. According to the Apple site, a Mac Mini has an HDMI (which I already know won't work), a Thunderbolt port, USB connectors. Thunderbolt looks a lot like a mini-dp adapter (and apparently is electrically similar). Has anyone tried using one of these with a Mac Mini? My guess is it won't work, but it can't hurt to ask.


----------



## youra6

When I click on Powerstrip, both my monitors turn into a solid pallet of red and my computer is basically frozen. Searched Google and got no viable results.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I've already got two of these bad-boys for my PC, but I may be getting a Mac-Mini. According to the Apple site, a Mac Mini has an HDMI (which I already know won't work), a Thunderbolt port, USB connectors. Thunderbolt looks a lot like a mini-dp adapter (and apparently is electrically similar). Has anyone tried using one of these with a Mac Mini? My guess is it won't work, but it can't hurt to ask.


Courtesy Wikipedia:
Quote:


> Existing Mini DisplayPort adapters for DVI, dual-link DVI, HDMI, and VGA are compatible with Thunderbolt, allowing backwards compatibility and no loss of functionality compared to Mini DisplayPort.


So you can very probably pick up an active mini-DP to dual-link DVI adapter and it should work off your thunderbolt port through that.


----------



## digitalforce

Ok, was about to pull the trigger on a Dell U2711 or Mac 27" CInema Display until I saw this thread.. Instead of reading through so many pages, please humor me









1 - I mainly do photo editing (Lightroom 4) and gaming on my current HP 27" Glossy 2710m. It's great for a TN panel but I want IPS.. is it good for photo editing as well as gaming?

2 - I have a MSI GTX 580 Lightning. Do I need any special cables or anything to hook it up?

3 - What is the current best/fastest shipping seller on ebay?

4 - Confused.. are ALL Q270s glossy panel and some just have thicker glass?

5 - Any other current info that is crucial or vital?

6 - I can get an Apple 27" LED for $650.. any reason besides price to get Q270 instead?

PS - I am in Utah, USA. Do I have to pay any import taxes etc?


----------



## Samurai Batgirl

Which one of these would be _best_ for gaming? Which eBay seller has one? I can't figure out who has which version







+


----------



## Deviated Septum

Well, i guess it's about time i stopped lurking and came out of the shadows, considering i just bought a Catleap. I must say, these monitors are a godsend, i only wish i knew about them before i bought the 27in LCD TV im now using as a secondary monitor.

The process was surprisingly painless, to be honest. I bought it from DCSamsungMall on sunday, it shipped monday, and arrived today. I couldnt have asked for a more expedient delivery. To top it all off, it has zero noticeable light leaks, and after a very thorough inspection, no dead or stuck pixels! Though i did have to use the nVidia control panel to do a little color correction, but that was a minor issue.


----------



## Deviated Septum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> ^ The above table is a load of junk as there are 2 owners with 5770's and 2 with 5850's who are running this monitor.
> Is it safe to assume that any video card capable of 2560x1440 over dual link DVI will run this monitor? I can't imagine why it would not be.


I imagine that to be the case, but naturally, a card not on the list is likely to struggle when trying to run a game or other graphics intensive application at 1440p (besides, any card much older probably couldnt reasonably run a game that supports 2560x1440)


----------



## eternal7trance

Gaming on this monitor is heaven.


----------



## Deviated Septum

With hardware like that, i doubt the monitor really makes that much of a difference


----------



## ToxicAdam

Guys with the 2c board are you capped at 60hz or can you at least get 67hz out of it?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Guys with the 2c board are you capped at 60hz or can you at least get 67hz out of it?


Got 67 out of mine

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## ToxicAdam

Can you tell any difference between 60 and 67hz?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Can you tell any difference between 60 and 67hz?


Not really, it's somewhat noticeable on that desktop, hard to tell in games though

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## ToxicAdam

I see. Thanks.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Courtesy Wikipedia:
> So you can very probably pick up an active mini-DP to dual-link DVI adapter and it should work off your thunderbolt port through that.


It might...

Going from anything but a thunderbolt to a thunderbolt display doesn't work; i.e. going from a pc to iMac 2011 (as external display) does not work.

Not sure if the converse is true...

I'd probably test it first.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> It might...
> Going from anything but a thunderbolt to a thunderbolt display doesn't work; i.e. going from a pc to iMac 2011 (as external display) does not work.
> Not sure if the converse is true...
> I'd probably test it first.


Hm... and what, praytell (in Apple's infinite wisdom) does a "thunderbolt" display provide that a DP (or mini-DP) monitor does not? It would have to be pretty valuable to break compatibility with the parent standard upon which Thunderbolt is based...


----------



## digitalforce

Man.. now that there are three choices (Catleap, CrossOver and PCBank), I have no idear which to order...


----------



## Deviated Septum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Guys with the 2c board are you capped at 60hz or can you at least get 67hz out of it?


I only managed 64hz... im just gonna wait till they get the OCable PCBs for sale.


----------



## bjgrenke

What's a good seller to buy these from? I'm looking to get 2 for now then another later on. I need to get them for $350 or less each and don't want dead pixels.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Man.. now that there are three choices (Catleap, CrossOver and PCBank), I have no idear which to order...


If you want the lowest price. Get the Catleap.

If you plan to get a mount anyway get a Catleap.

If you want 100+Hz, wait till the 100Hz PCB board become available or the 100Hz Catleap special edition is available.

If you want the best community support, buy Catleap.

If you don't game or plan to OC it really comes down to optics, stand quality and port support.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> What's a good seller to buy these from? I'm looking to get 2 for now then another later on. I need to get them for $350 or less each and don't want dead pixels.


Do a search on eBay for Catleap and go with the cheapest. Shipping times, packaging are all about the same. For $350 or less you will need to check the vendors that have best offer or PM the sellers for a volume discount.

As explained multiple times, most vendors offers a pixel perfect version for $60 extra. It adds to the time to ship and people have reported getting deadpixels since pixel perfect only means that the mfg (not the seller) checks according to their deadpixel policy. A lot of people have gotten perfect monitors w/o paying extra so just take the risk, since these are all A- panels anyway.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Hm... and what, praytell (in Apple's infinite wisdom) does a "thunderbolt" display provide that a DP (or mini-DP) monitor does not? It would have to be pretty valuable to break compatibility with the parent standard upon which Thunderbolt is based...


Apparently, thunderbolt transfer both pci-e data and a video signal, so simply going from dvi/mDP/DP source to a thunderbolt display doesn't actually work.

It is true that thunderbolt and minidp fit the same geometry specifications, but thunderbolt transfers with its own protocol.

I actually don't think apple realized this when they did it, because for the longest time, apple tech support have been saying that it would work (backwards compatibility), then consumer finds out it doesn't actually work.

Also Apple and Intel signed some exclusivity agreement (expires soon I think), so no one could even make adapters to correct the situation. Even the overpriced Kanex says they cannot obtain thunderbolt chips to make these.

I don't know why they made thunderbolt displays; I could understand thunderbolt on laptops/ultrabooks for external video cards, but other than that...

One of many sources: http://www.tuaw.com/2011/05/03/target-display-mode-missing-in-action-on-new-imacs/

Edit: It's funny because older models of MacBook Pro without Thunderbolt won't even work


----------



## TheJesus

Proprietary Apple strikes again!









Probably because Thunderbolt offers the ability to be used for peripherals as well as video connections. Another reason you haven't seen thunderbolt around is because the chips cost a lot to make. That's why they are going in high end applications like audio authoring equipment, where the cost is already high.

The thunderbolt displays allow daisy chaining, I don't think DP can do the same.


----------



## NameMakingSux

I have a question. I read on here of someone getting a matte display instead of a glossy. I hear people complain of the matte finish on dell ultrashaps as being too "grainy" and making the picture less clear, but i hear the glossy finish on these create a lot of reflections and you have to be more specific with your lighting.

I was wondering if the matte finish on these was as bad on other monitors? I think I remember reading someone saying the matte finishes on the select few of these were not as bad/didn't distort picture quality like other matte finishes? Can someone confirm this? Basically just wondering if i'm worried about the reflections being too much should I go with one with a matte finish?

THANKS!!


----------



## Chobbit

Well I finally caved and bought one yesterday but I'm also too much of a worrier so I ordered the tempered glass, perfect pixel version for £281.56 ($445.90) from green_sum.

Before doing this though I did some ringing around to find out what customs duty/tax/vat I would have to pay on this item if it gets checked at the *UK* borders, and this information might help you ScribbyDaGreat with your country tax information your after:

I spoke to customs who put me in contact with another department to get a commodity code first, the *commodity code for TVs/Monitors is: 8471607090*.

I then got back in touch with customs and give them the code, turns out *there are no Duty fees for TV's/Monitors, you just have to pay VAT on the item which is 20% of what ever is declared on the item*. The courier company will pay the fees and then request these fees back off you on delivery. However if the declared price is unbelievable they will most likely hold the item and contact you requesting to see your invoice which will delay the delivery further.

So if my package gets checked at the UK border by customs I will have to pay 20% of £281 which is £56 for a total of £337, which is still less than half the price of its dell counterpart here in the UK and this comes with a nice tempered glass and guaranteed perfect pixels.


----------



## Mr Ripper

@Chobbit

Hopefully you get lucky like me and don't get any delays or charges. I didn't have to pay a penny and was from green-sum also.


----------



## henn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> So if my package gets checked at the UK border by customs I will have to pay 20% of £281 which is £56 for a total of £337, which is still less than half the price of its dell counterpart here in the UK and this comes with a nice tempered glass and guaranteed perfect pixels.


To add to Chobbit's experience with mine from the UK, I paid duty on the declared value of the item (which was stated in USD, and coverted to GBP at a rate determined by customs), plus a £10 fee to Fedex for paying the fees.

Also note there was a lag between receiving the monitor and receiving the invoice from Fedex - the monitor came on the 22nd of March, the invoice arrived by mail on the 9th of April, so watch out for that!


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Ripper*
> 
> @Chobbit
> Hopefully you get lucky like me and don't get any delays or charges. I didn't have to pay a penny and was from green-sum also.


I really hope so, but hopefully it'll be no more than £50 like they'd told me, if I do.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henn*
> 
> To add to Chobbit's experience with mine from the UK, I paid duty on the declared value of the item (which was stated in USD, and coverted to GBP at a rate determined by customs), plus a £10 fee to Fedex for paying the fees.
> Also note there was a lag between receiving the monitor and receiving the invoice from Fedex - the monitor came on the 22nd of March, the invoice arrived by mail on the 9th of April, so watch out for that!


Thanks for that, did you just play duty and no tax? Also how long did it take to recieve your item to the UK from the date you bought it?


----------



## Aquineas

Not two minutes after ordering my third one (for Mac), I get info that there's been an 8.6 magnitude earthquake near Indonesia; Tsunami warning issued. All things in perspective. Heartfelt prayers go out to the people in that region of the world.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deviated Septum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Guys with the 2c board are you capped at 60hz or can you at least get 67hz out of it?
> 
> 
> 
> I only managed 64hz... im just gonna wait till they get the OCable PCBs for sale.
Click to expand...

Same here, 64hz on a Asus 6770 using toasty's CRU utility , on a 2C from green-sum. No perceivable difference. I set it back to 60hz (actually 59.94hz according to EDID (good for TV/movies) but CCC/Windows7 reports it as 60hz).

For gaming I found it tremendously improves input lag and framerate if I cap max rendered fps to 59. That is with vsync enabled. Without vsync I can go 60fps+ without input lag, but I hate tearing so it's a no go for me. Apparently capping at 59 prevents games from rendering more frames in advance which is what apparently causes the lag when you are using vsync.


----------



## evangelionstar

Just to confirm:

These will only OC to 120Hz with a GTX 680?

It wont do that with a 7870, 7950, 7970?

cheers


----------



## seg//fault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theguz4l*
> 
> Nice... who did you order it from?


dcsamsungmall on ebay.


----------



## digitalforce

Since I never got any replies, I simplify my questions in hope of a response:

1 - Are any of you editing photos on this display? Is it decent enough for that?

2 - Are ALL revisions of the Catleap a glossy display?


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Since I never got any replies, I simplify my questions in hope of a response:
> 1 - Are any of you editing photos on this display? Is it decent enough for that?
> 2 - Are ALL revisions of the Catleap a glossy display?


I'm not editing photos, but it is a *very* clear monitor. It truly reminds me of my days on a high-resolution CRT. That's subjective, I know. Going back to my 24" Samsung 2443 feels like a big step backwards.

Not all revisions are glossy. I got two AG coated ones. I have a third on order; hopefully that will be of the same type.


----------



## Qbex

Just a quick update of my 2A series Catleap , I've easly reached 90 Hz , no noise, buzzing or artifacts, nice and smooth.
Will play with screen a bit more and try to overclock more. As soon as I'll find decent pivoting stand in Oz that don't cost me arm and leg I'll take it apart and get some shots of pcb's for comparison.
1440p Ips is a pure bliss


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I'm not editing photos, but it is a *very* clear monitor. It truly reminds me of my days on a high-resolution CRT. That's subjective, I know. Going back to my 24" Samsung 2443 feels like a big step backwards.
> Not all revisions are glossy. I got two AG coated ones. I have a third on order; hopefully that will be of the same type.


Awesome.. I had a 2048x1536 CRT or whatever resolution it was. AMAZING!

I was looking to buy from "dcsamsungmall" on ebay but he doesn't list whether it has glossy or AG. Any other way to tell? Is there an image quality difference between the AG and glossy ones? I prefer glossy.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evangelionstar*
> 
> Just to confirm:
> These will only OC to 120Hz with a GTX 680?
> It wont do that with a 7870, 7950, 7970?
> cheers


No, the graphics card is not the limiting OC'ing factor. What determines your overclock-ability is the version of the monitor you get, and unfortunately, this happens to be something we have little control over. 2B models seem to be naturally overclock-able, 2C models, as they come from the factory, not-so-much.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Awesome.. I had a 2048x1536 CRT or whatever resolution it was. AMAZING!
> I was looking to buy from "dcsamsungmall" on ebay but he doesn't list whether it has glossy or AG. Any other way to tell? Is there an image quality difference between the AG and glossy ones? I prefer glossy.


There isn't any way to tell, but I believe historically, people who've ordered from dcsamsungmall have gotten glossy.


----------



## seg//fault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Awesome.. I had a 2048x1536 CRT or whatever resolution it was. AMAZING!
> I was looking to buy from "dcsamsungmall" on ebay but he doesn't list whether it has glossy or AG. Any other way to tell? Is there an image quality difference between the AG and glossy ones? I prefer glossy.


I ordered mine from him a couple days ago, and it is indeed the glossy version.


----------



## tcboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> ^ The above table is a load of junk as there are 2 owners with 5770's and 2 with 5850's who are running this monitor.
> Is it safe to assume that any video card capable of 2560x1440 over dual link DVI will run this monitor? I can't imagine why it would not be.


the point of the picture above is not the list of compatible gpu
is about "this monitor is for desktop only, not laptop"
do u get it now?


----------



## PearlJammzz

My 4870 handles it like a boss. Just can't play new games at this resolution lol.


----------



## sfsilicon

Good news from the 100Hz thread...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> good for you, this is not an April fool!
> Well, Thursdays meeting, they agreed that they would make these! What Im waiting for is, final Specs + price + Link where you can buy!
> It will take about 1 month to manufacture!
> the guy called "somethng" who is also posting, is my contact. So he is reading everything you suggest aswell!


For folks that have been hiding under a rock (or not reading the OP) here is more info on this - http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/1430#post_16797012


----------



## PurdueCIA

My catleap Q270 from bigclotchcraft is already out for delivery by DHL today (bought mine on sunday evening and shipped on monday) - item is declared as gift with value of USD $100.
The route is S. Korea > Cincinnati, OH > Hamilton, ON.
Called DHL to check and yes I am charged $39 for tax! No wonder it cleared custom within 30 minutes, as usual these couriers (DHL and UPS) that I have experienced using their services would tag a huge amount of taxes w/o any details.

So I paid $337 + $39.07 = CAD ~$376 in total, hope monitor will arrive in good condition!

Now I guess time to purchase a decent desktop monitor mount from another seller who would ship with different courier.


----------



## ezmo85

So my Catleap's shipping status via the EMS link in the OP is "Customs Retention - Other"... I'm in the US. Is this normal? Do I need to contact anyone? Maybe I'm just worrying too much but please, someone who's experienced this either give me some peace of mind or let me know what I should do next... Thanks!


----------



## digitalforce

Went ahead and pulled the trigger on the Catleap from dcsamsungmall.









I am very tempted to order a PCBank alongside it, test them both and keep the one I like the most. I really don't know if that is worth the trouble though...


----------



## PurdueCIA

I think few folks from US also got the same message and it just normal. Just search that specific message in this forum.


----------



## ezmo85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> I think few folks from US also got the same message and it just normal. Just search that specific message in this forum.


Oh, awesome, sounds like my situation is normal. Sorry, i'm kindof a forum noob, just found the "search this thread" button lol. Thanks for the quick response though!


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> The thunderbolt displays allow daisy chaining, I don't think DP can do the same.


This was the heart of my question; if you're connecting to a *display*, does thunderbolt offer any advantages over miniDP (the advantages of having a thunderbolt port on your computer are well understood, obviously) considering any thunderbolt port *should* be able to drive miniDP equally well.

The answer is - with the exception of display daisy-chaining (which I'm not sure that Mac screen even supports anyways), apparently not much


----------



## woodoosticka

I ordered my monitor on Saturday, received the monitor on Tuesday.

Ordered a Q270 SE from eBay Seller dcsamsungmall

Box arrived shipped with bubble wrap, everything looks in good cosmetic condition.

Only issue with the screen is there is a dead pixel in the center of the screen, besides that monitor works great however can not be overclocked.


----------



## henn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> I really hope so, but hopefully it'll be no more than £50 like they'd told me, if I do.
> Thanks for that, did you just play duty and no tax? Also how long did it take to recieve your item to the UK from the date you bought it?


The only fee was the VAT at 20% (20% of what though I'm not sure - it doesn't align with the price marked on the box, which doesn't align with what was paid on eBay - but the amount was about right)

It was shipped 10.45pm (I guess GMT, so Monday morning SK time) on the 18th from South Korea, arrived in London on the 22nd around 11am GMT.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Has anyone got pics of the Catleap without bezel yet. Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> ?? With it removed?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> anyone know if Asus 6850 (EAH6850) will work with Catleap ? will it be able to handle games (mw3, bf3) at high settings?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> eshiku,
> 
> As promised, I am writing this message from my girlfriend's XFX 6850 on the 3View PCBank PB2700 Super.
> 
> The XFX 6850 is completely compatible with this monitor and shows post and BIOS just fine. However, I am noticing some performance lag while doing nothing more than browsing the web. I built her machine very similar to mine, only with an Antec P183 case, motherboard sound (she doesn't care) and an XFX 6850. I also upgraded her very old OS drive to a Pyro 240GB SSD last week, so yeah, I doubt it's the rest of her system slowing anything down.
> 
> Also, slowdown does not occur while typing, only while scrolling web pages or resizing windows. This is what leads me to believe that the lag is GPU-performance-based, and it is definitely not ghosting. (Furthermore, without doing a real test, this does not appear to be input lag, since my 90WPM typing speed seems unaffected visually. I haven't tried a game yet, though)
> 
> In short, it'll work, but for proper performance you might want to get another 6850 on the cheap and run them together if your motherboard supports crossfire. I'm not saying I wouldn't be able to live with this -- it's really fine -- but the performance difference is noticeable between this and what things were on her Dell U2311 a moment ago. It's sort of like when you run an HD video on an old S775 machine. It works fine, but the experience is not as baby smooth as using a more modern machine.
> 
> I'll test this on my 7970 and 5770 when I get home.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> This is the Catleap Club - not the PCBank Club - please post accordingly. I understand you are using a similar panel, but PCBs differ across platforms apparently. Thanks.
Click to expand...

Hi yeah with it removed.. Thanks


----------



## PurdueCIA

Received my catleap q270 - it's the 2B version, purchased from bigclothcraft. - with welltronics 110-240V power brick, so far it's just warm after an 1/2 hour of usage.
Monitor's box is just wrapped in brown shipping paper but cosmetically the box is still in good condition.

Weird thing is that this monitor displays 4 identical desktop...see screenshot. What setup did I miss? I played around with Windows display configuration and unable to figure out...

Any help would greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Received my catleap q270 - it's the 2B version, purchased from bigclothcraft. - with welltronics 110-240V power brick, so far it's just warm after an 1/2 hour of usage.
> Monitor's box is just wrapped in brown shipping paper but cosmetically the box is still in good condition.
> Weird thing is that this monitor displays 4 identical desktop...see screenshot. What setup did I miss? I played around with Windows display configuration and unable to figure out...
> Any help would greatly appreciated. Thanks!


What video card do you have, did you previously have a multi-monitor setup, and what do your windows screen resolution settings show?


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> What video card do you have, did you previously have a multi-monitor setup, and what do your windows screen resolution settings show?


Thanks for the quick reply.
1. GPU is 6950 2GB
2. I did have multi monitor setup before - 1 with DVI-D and the other with display port > DVI converter
I removed the DP connection, so right now just 1 connection straight DVD-D to catleap
3. I have to lower my current catleap resolution to 1600x900, the 2560x1440 resolution makes the text unreadable (too small).

Thanks!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Received my catleap q270 - it's the 2B version, purchased from bigclothcraft. - with welltronics 110-240V power brick, so far it's just warm after an 1/2 hour of usage.
> Monitor's box is just wrapped in brown shipping paper but cosmetically the box is still in good condition.
> 
> Weird thing is that this monitor displays 4 identical desktop...see screenshot. What setup did I miss? I played around with Windows display configuration and unable to figure out...
> 
> Any help would greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Change your DVI cable.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Change your DVI cable.


Oh just that simple! Thanks Sir...monitor display 2560x1440 now. Thanks.


----------



## Shiftedbeef

I've gone back a few pages and couldn't find an answer:

Do we have reports of this monitor doing 3d properly and working at 120hz? I remember reading something awhile back about a guy getting it to work but it was blurry. Does "120hz" no matter what monitor you have, mean that your monitor is 3d capable?

If your monitor is in "120hz" but you still can't get 3d to work, does that mean that the monitor is actually truly not 120hz or does it mean that the monitor can't sync properly with the glasses because it's not supposed to be "3d"?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> I've gone back a few pages and couldn't find an answer:
> Do we have reports of this monitor doing 3d properly and working at 120hz? I remember reading something awhile back about a guy getting it to work but it was blurry. Does "120hz" no matter what monitor you have, mean that your monitor is 3d capable?
> If your monitor is in "120hz" but you still can't get 3d to work, does that mean that the monitor is actually truly not 120hz or does it mean that the monitor can't sync properly with the glasses because it's not supposed to be "3d"?


The response time on this monitor is too high to properly do 3d.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> I have a question. I read on here of someone getting a matte display instead of glossy. I hear people complain of the matte finish on dell ultrashaps as being too "grainy" and making the picture less clear, but I hear the glossy finish on these create a lot of reflections.
> 
> I was wondering if the matte finish on these was as bad on other monitors? I think I remember reading someone saying the matte finishes on the select few of these were not as bad/didn't distort picture quality like other matte finishes? Can someone confirm this? Basically just wondering if i'm worried about the reflections being too much should I go with one with a matte finish?
> THANKS!!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> This was the heart of my question; if you're connecting to a *display*, does thunderbolt offer any advantages over miniDP (the advantages of having a thunderbolt port on your computer are well understood, obviously) considering any thunderbolt port *should* be able to drive miniDP equally well.
> The answer is - with the exception of display daisy-chaining (which I'm not sure that Mac screen even supports anyways), apparently not much


I'm not saying that its a great technology, but its not bad either (besides the dividing standards as usual).

The Mac Screen does indeed support daisy-chaining to two of the screens or onto another thunderbolt accessory. Its really a cool idea, but we'll see if it gets around before LightPeak replaces everything, lol.


----------



## CommanderHK47

Really playing with the idea of ordering this monitor for gaming and general pc use and was wondering PurdueCIA, did you ask for bigclothcraft to check for a 2b unit? Also did you order a normal or "perfact" pixel guarantee unit?

Was also wondering if any one has done an in-depth write up on how well these units preforming in terms of gaming use? I know the units without a scaler have next to no imput lag witch is great, but i was wounding how they preform in terms of ghosting/high speed image blurring and if there are issues like color banding?

By the way, wanted to say thanks to ScribbyDaGreat for your hard work in trying to source out PCBs and cables as a possible overclocking option for later revision units.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*


I wouldn't call the matte finish on mine better or worse than on my Samsung 2443. But matte finishes never bothered me much.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CommanderHK47*
> 
> Really playing with the idea of ordering this monitor for gaming and general pc use and was wondering PurdueCIA, did you ask for bigclothcraft to check for a 2b unit? Also did you order a normal or "perfact" pixel guarantee unit?
> Was also wondering if any one has done an in-depth write up on how well these units preforming in terms of gaming use? I know the units without a scaler have next to no imput lag witch is great, but i was wounding how they preform in terms of ghosting/high speed image blurring and if there are issues like color banding?
> By the way, wanted to say thanks to ScribbyDaGreat for your hard work in trying to source out PCBs and cables as a possible overclocking option for later revision units.


BigClothCraft has actually been sending out quite a few 2B units over the past week (about 4 or 5 from what I remember). If I get the money, I'm ordering one just to try.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> BigClothCraft has actually been sending out quite a few 2B units over the past week (about 4 or 5 from what I remember). If I get the money, I'm ordering one just to try.


I pm him last night.. he told me all he has is 2C

Quote

"
Hello
I am sorry about that.
I have only 2c modles.
Thanks

- bigclothcraft"


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Just ordered for $340 thru bigclothcraft and hope I get a 2B in good condition


Well almost 24 hours and still hasn't shippied







For all of you that ordered thru bigclothcraft how long before you got shipping confirmation? I was really hoping to receive it by Saturday as I go on vacation Monday.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> I pm him last night.. he told me all he has is 2C
> Quote
> "
> Hello
> I am sorry about that.
> I have only 2c modles.
> Thanks
> - bigclothcraft"


Thats strange when I emailed the reply I got was they have no control over what model you receive? Don't know why but I have this bad feeling about this purchase. Time will tell.


----------



## PearlJammzz

2C's are amazing unless you're someone who absolutely NEEDS 120hz. If all you are coming from a 60hz monitor then you WILL be amazed. It literally looks JUST like the Apple monitor (the screen, not the bezel obviously). It's a great monitor and a great monitor for gaming.

Twitch gamers will probably stick with their 120hz 1080p displays but for the rest of us this is an amazing monitor, even at 60hz.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> 2C's are amazing unless you're someone who absolutely NEEDS 120hz. If all you are coming from a 60hz monitor then you WILL be amazed. It literally looks JUST like the Apple monitor (the screen, not the bezel obviously). It's a great monitor and a great monitor for gaming.
> 
> Twitch gamers will probably stick with their 120hz 1080p displays but for the rest of us this is an amazing monitor, even at 60hz.


This is what I wanted to hear. I went to the Apple store and drooled over the 27" LED Cinema Display until I saw the $1000 (+tax) price tag. I pulled the trigger on the Catleap from dcsamsungmall and cant wait for it to arrive.

How does the Catleap compare to the Apple on response time and ghosting?


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Well almost 24 hours and still hasn't shippied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For all of you that ordered thru bigclothcraft how long before you got shipping confirmation? I was really hoping to receive it by Saturday as I go on vacation Monday.


It may take some time for shipping info to update. Both times with me it didnt update until the day before i recieved it. Try using the tracking thru dhl , it may show there


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CommanderHK47*
> 
> Really playing with the idea of ordering this monitor for gaming and general pc use and was wondering PurdueCIA, did you ask for bigclothcraft to check for a 2b unit? Also did you order a normal or "perfact" pixel guarantee unit?
> Was also wondering if any one has done an in-depth write up on how well these units preforming in terms of gaming use? I know the units without a scaler have next to no imput lag witch is great, but i was wounding how they preform in terms of ghosting/high speed image blurring and if there are issues like color banding?
> By the way, wanted to say thanks to ScribbyDaGreat for your hard work in trying to source out PCBs and cables as a possible overclocking option for later revision units.


Hi Commander,

I didn't ask for a 2B version from him, I was just assumed no other sellers would even have this version available. But when I unwrapped (literaly) the package I saw the S/N # with 2B letters.
With AMD catalyst, I wasn't able to select higher refresh rate...I didn't have much time to play around. But I believe you'd need to use powerstrip. Will need to read more on the OP page on how to overclock it.
I quickly played Left 4 Dead 2 with the 2560x1440 resolution and it was gorgeous, I didnt detect any lag at all, but again L4D 2 isn't really a GPU intensive game.

But if someone would have other easier way of overclocking the monitor please PM me. Thanks.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Well almost 24 hours and still hasn't shippied
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For all of you that ordered thru bigclothcraft how long before you got shipping confirmation? I was really hoping to receive it by Saturday as I go on vacation Monday.


I ordered mine on Sunday evening and on Monday morning, he asked me to provide him with some information regarding my GPU and personal info. By Monday evening product is already picked up by DHL and on its way to Canada. Received the product on Tuesday afternoon - so in total less than 48 hours.

The DHL route was S. Korea > Cincinnati, OH > Canada and I assume DHL's only international hub in US is in Ohio.


----------



## theguz4l

Received my Catleap today!! I got the 2D model, anyone know if this is better than 2C or is overclockable?

Got it from Bigclothcraft. It came overnight! (Shipped Tuesday Korea time, and arrived Wednesday 6PM EST.

Wow this thing is incredible. No dead pixels and I received the 110v-220v adapter. No problems so far.


----------



## Crezzlin

I have 3 on order from big cloth, I put the order in on Monday but he sent a MSG today saying its a national holiday so will be shipping tomo.. Can't wait to de bezel them and run portrait Eyefinity if all goes to plan..


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theguz4l*
> 
> Received my Catleap today!! I got the 2D model, anyone know if this is better than 2C or is overclockable?
> Got it from Bigclothcraft. It came overnight! (Shipped Tuesday Korea time, and arrived Wednesday 6PM EST.
> Wow this thing is incredible. No dead pixels and I received the 110v-220v adapter. No problems so far.


Wow, BigClothCraft is really random, first a bunch of 2Bs now 2Ds, lol.

The 2D is pretty much the same as the 2C from what I remember. You might be able to squeeze 64-67Hz, but its not really worth it at that point.


----------



## theguz4l

I was able to get 65 HZ out of it, so better then nothing I guess. When I play games w/ vsync on though, it caps it at 60 FPS. Is that normal?


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> I have 3 on order from big cloth, I put the order in on Monday but he sent a MSG today saying its a national holiday so will be shipping tomo.. Can't wait to de bezel them and run portrait Eyefinity if all goes to plan..


Yeah it was election day yesterday so most things were closed down but I got a delivery at my house. I was just happy to have a paid day off work!


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> I ordered mine on Sunday evening and on Monday morning, he asked me to provide him with some information regarding my GPU and personal info. By Monday evening product is already picked up by DHL and on its way to Canada. Received the product on Tuesday afternoon - so in total less than 48 hours.
> The DHL route was S. Korea > Cincinnati, OH > Canada and I assume DHL's only international hub in US is in Ohio.


Well I got an email around 3:00 AM asking the same questions replied @ 5:27 AM and nothing after. I've sent 3 emails that have gone unanswered








Funny before I bought the monitor I asked a few questions and within a hour or so always got a reply. I think I'll just order from another seller and try to unload one locally. I'm not normally so impatient, just with vacation and all I really wanted to receive it fast.


----------



## digitalforce

Order mine early AM today.. still haven't heard anything. Oh well, even though I am excited to try it, patience is a virtue!

Ordered it from dcsamsungmall so no idear if glass, speakers, etc etc. Oh well, sounds like all models still have excellent image quality and that is my main goal.

My 27" HP looks fantastic for a TN panel but nothing like S-IPS..


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Order mine early AM today.. still haven't heard anything. Oh well, even though I am excited to try it, patience is a virtue!
> Ordered it from dcsamsungmall so no idear if glass, speakers, etc etc. Oh well, sounds like all models still have excellent image quality and that is my main goal.
> My 27" HP looks fantastic for a TN panel but nothing like S-IPS..


Whatever one you buy on Ebay dictates which model you get (glass, speakers, etc.). The cheapest ones are no glass, no speakers, and DVi-only.


----------



## digitalforce

I bought the "Q270 SE" from dcsamsungmall. It didn't indicate any of those features..


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Well I got an email around 3:00 AM asking the same questions replied @ 5:27 AM and nothing after. I've sent 3 emails that have gone unanswered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny before I bought the monitor I asked a few questions and within a hour or so always got a reply. I think I'll just order from another seller and try to unload one locally. I'm not normally so impatient, just with vacation and all I really wanted to receive it fast.


Well someone mentioned today is public holiday in S. Korea (election day) maybe he'd reply later - S. Korea time is 13 hours ahead of eastern standard time.


----------



## Miagi100

Hmm dvi-d cable a dud? Just received my monitor today, turned on the power, saw a blue flash, went black then I plugged it into my computer and my computer detects it but it says it's disabled somehow, some of the options in my screen resolution in windows 7 are whited out and I am unable to click them.
I running a 6950 2G version, drivers are up to date.

Any help please I havn't hooked up a brand new monitor in years.

1. What type of GPU do you have installed? Radeon 6950 2g

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? just did a fresh install.

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? the dvi-d cable I got from the monitor is working, it's hooked up to my current monitor as I type, so cable is OK.

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? I only have on dvi-d port on my comp but yes, I have tried JUST the catleap.

Well I guess I have to open this up...really didn't want to do this, Any guides with pictures out there for this part please.

Also I think is weird idk if this normally happens? I have a flashing green light, also my computer is detecting a dual dvi display connected but it's not allowing me to choose the option to switch to that display?


----------



## Soups

I got my catleap today (wednesday, located in Manitoba, Canada) from bigclothcraft. Ordered late sat, paid sunday. $100 declared gift, had DHL fee + tax of 22 something.

2C version (oh well) but no dead pixels/anything else I can notice.

Great buy so far! Diablo 3 looks amazing at 2560 x 1440. Plays smooth on my 6950 1gb.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Soups*
> 
> I got my catleap today (wednesday, located in Manitoba, Canada) from bigclothcraft. Ordered late sat, paid sunday. $100 declared gift, had DHL fee + tax of 22 something.
> 2C version (oh well) but no dead pixels/anything else I can notice.
> Great buy so far! Diablo 3 looks amazing at 2560 x 1440. Plays smooth on my 6950 1gb.


I am only really buying it for Diablo III and Kingdoms of Amalur + photography -- Can't wait to try it out!!


----------



## bjgrenke

Darn, just realized my 680 wont be able to support 3 of these. I might get one then two 20" monitors in portrait.


----------



## digitalforce

How the devil did you score a 680? That shizzle sold out QUICK.


----------



## bjgrenke

I find myself asking the same question.. Pre-ordered from Memory Express on the day of release then for about 2 days it said back ordered, then randomly got a call saying it's in.


----------



## Miagi100

Troubleshooting need some assistance please.
- drivers are up to date, monitor is on, dvi cable is working.
- my computer has been detecting the monitor and only labels the monitor as DUAL DVI-D. When I have tried to select the catleaps displays or even change the settings it says "unable to change display settings" and reverts back to my samsung monitor.

Its either my computer or the monitor and if it is the monitor I have no idea what's wrong with it. Not sure how to fix the error in my displays settings. The monitor also shows up in my catalyst control center ( 6950 2g) . But I can't select it and when I hover over the monitor symbol it says DUAL DVI-D disabled.

any ideas?


----------



## Xplicit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CommanderHK47*
> 
> Really playing with the idea of ordering this monitor for gaming and general pc use and was wondering PurdueCIA, did you ask for bigclothcraft to check for a 2b unit? Also did you order a normal or "perfact" pixel guarantee unit?
> Was also wondering if any one has done an in-depth write up on how well these units preforming in terms of gaming use? I know the units without a scaler have next to no imput lag witch is great, but i was wounding how they preform in terms of ghosting/high speed image blurring and if there are issues like color banding?
> By the way, wanted to say thanks to ScribbyDaGreat for your hard work in trying to source out PCBs and cables as a possible overclocking option for later revision units.


_Dear expliciate,

Hello
I am sorry about that.
Serial number of Q270SE2B******* exist in monitor with perfect pixel.
Now, about stock of this monitor,Q270SE2[D]******* exist.

How can I help you?
Best REgards
Thanks

- bigclothcraft_

Based off the message, I would assume that the normal monitors without perfect pixel are all 2D models by now
It would appear that there may be a few 2B models if you plan on purchasing the perfect pixel one. (Keep in mind that the difference is about $70)
Personally, after searching around reviews and posts, I presume that the newer models have less/fewer dead pixels or likely hood to have them.

Normal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140729187593
Perfect Pixel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130672996172


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xplicit*
> 
> _Dear expliciate,
> Hello
> I am sorry about that.
> Serial number of Q270SE2B******* exist in monitor with perfect pixel.
> Now, about stock of this monitor,Q270SE2[D]******* exist.
> How can I help you?
> Best REgards
> Thanks
> - bigclothcraft_
> Based off the message, I would assume that the normal monitors without perfect pixel are all 2D models by now
> It would appear that there may be a few 2B models if you plan on purchasing the perfect pixel one. (Keep in mind that the difference is about $70)
> Personally, after searching around reviews and posts, I presume that the newer models have less/fewer dead pixels or likely hood to have them.
> Normal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/140729187593
> Perfect Pixel: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130672996172


Both monitors i ordered from him were perfect pix models and were the 2B version. Both had zero dead/stuck pixels and no backlight bleeding issues. Interesting that the perfect pix seems to be the only ones left with the oc pcb.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Both monitors i ordered from him were perfect pix models and were the 2B version. Both had zero dead/stuck pixels and no backlight bleeding issues. Interesting that the perfect pix seems to be the only ones left with the oc pcb.


Probably because no one wanted to pay extra, lol.


----------



## Eagle1337

YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2300LED Any major reports of Dead Pixels? and it's still an 8 bit panel right?


----------



## digitalforce

Blast it.. I should have ordered the perfect pixel to get the OC PCB!


----------



## Xplicit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Probably because no one wanted to pay extra, lol.


^ Yeah exactly, it's $70 extra on the monitor + $13 more on 3years SquareTrade warranty. @[email protected]
Besides, I personally won't be gaming extensively, thus do not need the overclocking. 67Hz should be fine for me.


----------



## digitalforce

Can anyone confirm if the "D" series can at least hit 67hz?

Also, are all B series OClockable?


----------



## Adhunt

Hey, just wondering if my (previously problem free) monitor might have an issue?

I have my computer set to put my monitors on standby after half an hour, but during the day I turn the monitors off manually and leave the computer running.

When I got home today I turned on the monitor first (before moving the mouse to get it out of monitor standby). The screen then showed something like when you had no reception on an old analogue tv - but my secondary monitor showed the desktop as it should. I turned the monitor off and on again and it worked perfectly.

Any ideas??


----------



## Xplicit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Can anyone confirm if the "D" series can at least hit 67hz?
> Also, are all B series OClockable?


Most people with 2C and 2D models claim that they can hit around 64 - 67.
Assuming that 2C and 2D have the identical PCB, I would speculate around 64 - 67hz.


----------



## fsrick

can we pick the screen type? glossy or matte, I prefer the matte screen.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xplicit*
> 
> Most people with 2C and 2D models claim that they can hit around 64 - 67.
> Assuming that 2C and 2D have the identical PCB, I would speculate around 64 - 67hz.


Ok, but are 2B models for sure OC up to 97hz?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theguz4l*
> 
> I was able to get 65 HZ out of it, so better then nothing I guess. When I play games w/ vsync on though, it caps it at 60 FPS. Is that normal?


No - you should be able to get your FPS up to your refresh rate with VSYNC on. Try dropping in-game settings, trying a different game (some artificially limit to 60 anyways), and trying a different method to modify the refresh rate.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Ok, but are 2B models for sure OC up to 97hz?


We've heard no reports to the contrary, but the 2B/2C/2D designations are simply a date code - so the possibility exists for 2Bs that don't overclock or 2Cs that do. Again, no reports of that as of yet though.


----------



## digitalforce

Hmmm.. debating on selling my 2D when it arrives and ordering a Perfect Pixel that is most likely 2B...

I have a 2D en route from dcsamsungmall but am tempted to order a perfect pixel 2B from big cloth. For those who have seen both 60 an 90hz on these monitors, is it worth the extra $$$?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> Troubleshooting need some assistance please.
> - drivers are up to date, monitor is on, dvi cable is working.
> - my computer has been detecting the monitor and only labels the monitor as DUAL DVI-D *<----THIS IS OK ALL OF OURS SAY THIS*. When I have tried to select the catleaps displays or even change the settings it says "unable to change display settings" and reverts back to my samsung monitor.
> 
> Its either my computer or the monitor and if it is the monitor I have no idea what's wrong with it. Not sure how to fix the error in my displays settings. The monitor also shows up in my catalyst control center ( 6950 2g) . But I can't select it and when I hover over the monitor symbol it says DUAL DVI-D disabled.
> 
> any ideas?


Any luck? Here's a few simple things to try before opening her up (you may have done this before, so bear with me - thinking/typing aloud based on 2500+ posts!)


Unplug everything (monitors)
Confirm 24v from brick (I doubt this is it, but doesn't hurt to confirm. Also, you have the Welltronics 110-240v brick? You could skip this if you don't know how to check or don't have a voltmeter handy.)
Turn off comp
Use a GOOD DVI cable - not the supplied DVI
Do not connect a monitor - turn on comp - wait until you would normally be booted into Windows
Catleap UNPLUGGED from power
Connect DVI cable - comp then to Catleap
Connect power to Catleap
RED power switch?
Press it
Anything? What does LED on Catleap power switch do? Still flash green?
Swap outputs on your GPU.
Same result?
If nothing on screen and flashing green - have to open her up and reseat all the cables (DVI PCB and PANEL PCB) - see OP - it is easy so don't be scared!
Try again after reseating cables.
Report back!

Hope this helps some.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Officially back from vacation and man what a crapload of stuff to update! I will get to updating the OP this week - thanks to all that have PM'd me ideas/info for the OP I will be adding and responding (rep) once I get to it.

Oh, a possible update on the PCBs? Heh, teaser.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Officially back from vacation and man what a crapload of stuff to update! I will get to updating the OP this week - thanks to all that have PM'd me ideas/info for the OP I will be adding and responding (rep) once I get to it.
> 
> Oh, a possible update on the PCBs? Heh, teaser.


Welcome back! We tried to hold down the fort while you were gone, but there's a lot of OT stuff







Update now!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Officially back from vacation and man what a crapload of stuff to update! I will get to updating the OP this week - thanks to all that have PM'd me ideas/info for the OP I will be adding and responding (rep) once I get to it.
> 
> Oh, a possible update on the PCBs? Heh, teaser.
> 
> 
> 
> Welcome back! We tried to hold down the fort while you were gone, but there's a lot of OT stuff
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update now!
Click to expand...

Cheers! You guys did great! I was usually reading the seemingly endless posts after drinking on the beach all day so I tried to keep my posts to a minimum!


----------



## stryker7314

I've got a couple requests from yall. Can people with Team Fortress 2 play it on their Catleap and let me know what video card you used and what kind of fps you were getting. Also for those with a B, could you check if there is a difference in the scanlines that appear when overclocking, how big of a diff from 97hz to 110hz scanline-wise.

Bottom line is I want to get an nVidia card that can play TF2 with high fps, no less than 150 fps on the highest settings, and I'm not sure if I wil need a 680 to accomplish this, or will a 560/570/580 be able to do it. Also, I dont like the oc scan lines so I want to see how big ugly they get from 97hz to 110 since the 680 appears to be the only card that can go greater than 97hz. If anyone can check with their other nvidia cards to see if they can go higher than 97 with the powerstrip method on the 1st post I would greatly appreciate it.

I would really rather keep my 7970's but I also really want 97hz, tough that ati limits their ramdac, btw has that contact with amd/ati came up with anything? I know someone was working on it, we need those drivers updated.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theguz4l*
> 
> I was able to get 65 HZ out of it, so better then nothing I guess. When I play games w/ vsync on though, it caps it at 60 FPS. Is that normal?


It is probably the game which is capped to 60fps through a config setting or so. You may need to find out if there is a config file to edit or a console command to up the max fps. Also try running other games and see if any show more fps.

If you can't get higher than 60fps and you definitely are at 65hz you'd be better off setting 60hz because 60fps @ 65hz will be slightly choppy.


----------



## atmosfar

I just got my Catleap and am not getting any picture.
Quote:


> _1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
> 
> 2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
> 
> 3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
> 
> 4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
> 
> 4. Tried any of the other things listed above?._


1. ASUS EAH 6850

2. 12.3, the latest.

3. Don't have another cable to try, but I used the included cable with another monitor and it worked.

4. Tried both outputs of the GPU (DVI-I and DVI-D), no joy.

I have opened up the monitor and reseated the connections, but that made no difference. I am in Ireland so it is the same voltage as South Korea. Unlike the person with the 6950 I am getting no recognition of the monitor in Windows.

Welltronics power brick whose green light illuminates when plugged in.

It is a Q270SE2C5LP1064 from dream-seller.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> Troubleshooting need some assistance please.
> - drivers are up to date, monitor is on, dvi cable is working.
> - my computer has been detecting the monitor and only labels the monitor as DUAL DVI-D *<----THIS IS OK ALL OF OURS SAY THIS*. When I have tried to select the catleaps displays or even change the settings it says "unable to change display settings" and reverts back to my samsung monitor.
> 
> Its either my computer or the monitor and if it is the monitor I have no idea what's wrong with it. Not sure how to fix the error in my displays settings. The monitor also shows up in my catalyst control center ( 6950 2g) . But I can't select it and when I hover over the monitor symbol it says DUAL DVI-D disabled.
> 
> any ideas?
> 
> 
> 
> Any luck? Here's a few simple things to try before opening her up (you may have done this before, so bear with me - thinking/typing aloud based on 2500+ posts!)
> 
> 
> Unplug everything (monitors)
> Confirm 24v from brick (I doubt this is it, but doesn't hurt to confirm. Also, you have the Welltronics 110-240v brick? You could skip this if you don't know how to check or don't have a voltmeter handy.)
> Turn off comp
> Use a GOOD DVI cable - not the supplied DVI
> Do not connect a monitor - turn on comp - wait until you would normally be booted into Windows
> Catleap UNPLUGGED from power
> Connect DVI cable - comp then to Catleap
> Connect power to Catleap
> RED power switch?
> Press it
> Anything? What does LED on Catleap power switch do? Still flash green?
> Swap outputs on your GPU.
> Same result?
> If nothing on screen and flashing green - have to open her up and reseat all the cables (DVI PCB and PANEL PCB) - see OP - it is easy so don't be scared!
> Try again after reseating cables.
> Report back!
> 
> Hope this helps some.
Click to expand...

Might also be worth him trying toasty's CRU utility to see what EDID is in the registry and maybe playing around with a custom timing (eg. trying 59.94hz vs 60hz).

But it's probably not that because a 6950 should auto detect the EDID and go straight to [email protected] hz without having to set anything manually. More likely is a loose cable internally as we know that has happened to other people :/

Just a warning about the CRU utility, *do not delete all timings under "detailed resolution"*, you will get a blank screen in windows and have to boot into safe mode to fix it (found out the hard way - thought I had bricked my monitor







)

To restore to default you have to select the monitor from the drop down list at top and click Delete. Then reboot.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> I just got my Catleap and am not getting any picture.
> 1. ASUS EAH 6850
> 2. 12.3, the latest.
> 3. Don't have another cable to try, but I used the included cable with another monitor and it worked.
> 4. Tried both outputs of the GPU (DVI-I and DVI-D), no joy.
> I have opened up the monitor and reseated the connections, but that made no difference. I am in Ireland so it is the same voltage as South Korea. Unlike the person with the 6950 I am getting no recognition of the monitor in Windows.
> Welltronics power brick whose green light illuminates when plugged in.
> It is a Q270SE2C5LP1064 from dream-seller.


That is disturbing to say the least. I have an Asus EAH 6770 + 2C and needed to do no configuration at all, the monitor just automatically came on to 2560x1440 as per the EDID info that it would be reporting to the video card.


----------



## atmosfar

I'm going to try reinstalling the GPU drivers..

EDIT: Okay, some positive signs. I uninstalled the AMD drivers then when I went into the Windows desktop res settings the second display was there as Dual-DVI as with the earlier poster. I am getting the same "Unable to save display settings" issue now. Catalyst did not recognize the second monitor.

EDIT2: CRU Preview sees the monitor with the right res and 59.XYZ Hz, but the monitor is listed as disabled..

EDIT3: All right! Got it to work. I had it plugged in to the DVI-D port of my 6850 which was being semi-recognized by Windows and Catalyst. I switched it to the DVI-I port and Windows recognized it. I'm not sure if Catalyst likes it or not but I had definitely tried plugging the monitor into the DVI-I port several times before I went into the Windows desktop res settings.

Wow... the colours


----------



## digitalforce

So... is it worth selling my 2D to get a 2B perfect pixel for games? I haven't seen anything over 60hz since my CRT days...

Or will the 2D be easy to mod with PCB/wires coming soon? Please advise.


----------



## illli

how or where are you getting a guaranteed 2b with perfect pixel?
if you know how to use a screwdriver it wont be that difficult to replace the pcb in the one you have now


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> So... is it worth selling my 2D to get a 2B perfect pixel for games? I haven't seen anything over 60hz since my CRT days...
> Or will the 2D be easy to mod with PCB/wires coming soon? Please advise.


Check the Input Lag link in the OP for information on this topic collected from the Club posts. Direct link is here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/1430#post_16797012

In the end it is a personal choice based on what games you play, watch videos, etc.

Not sure about 2D, I recall someone posting the 2D board pictures a while back (search thread for 2D) and some discussion about board swaps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illli*
> 
> how or where are you getting a guaranteed 2b with perfect pixel?
> if you know how to use a screwdriver it wont be that difficult to replace the pcb in the one you have now


Recent 2Bs came from a new eBay vendor that had some older stock on hand. From as far as I can tell this has all been sold out and all sellers are saying that they don't have 2Bs anymore or they can't check for serials.

Best place to get a "2B" is to buy the monitor being produced on the "100Hz" catleap thread. That will be available in ~ 1m. If your interested in it, please vote on this thread - http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed


----------



## atmosfar

My bottom right corner is darker + yellower. It's not massively noticeable, but you can kind of see it if you drag a window from one side to another. Would this be caused by the backlight or the panel itself?


----------



## Mr Pixel

Anyone have dust on a NON-tempered panel? I have 4 small spots (1-2 pixel size) that are several mm behind the LCD itself. Hopefully they're caught in the diffuser and not inside the polarizer. May have to disassemble later to try and remove them.


----------



## Miagi100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Any luck? Here's a few simple things to try before opening her up (you may have done this before, so bear with me - thinking/typing aloud based on 2500+ posts!)
> 
> Unplug everything (monitors)
> Confirm 24v from brick (I doubt this is it, but doesn't hurt to confirm. Also, you have the Welltronics 110-240v brick? You could skip this if you don't know how to check or don't have a voltmeter handy.)
> Turn off comp
> Use a GOOD DVI cable - not the supplied DVI
> Do not connect a monitor - turn on comp - wait until you would normally be booted into Windows
> Catleap UNPLUGGED from power
> Connect DVI cable - comp then to Catleap
> Connect power to Catleap
> RED power switch?
> Press it
> Anything? What does LED on Catleap power switch do? Still flash green?
> Swap outputs on your GPU.
> Same result?
> If nothing on screen and flashing green - have to open her up and reseat all the cables (DVI PCB and PANEL PCB) - see OP - it is easy so don't be scared!
> Try again after reseating cables.
> Report back!
> Hope this helps some.


Ok I tried all of your suggestions, nothing worked, I am getting a flashing green light and unforutuantely I only have one dvi-d cable but I confirmed it's not the cable itself.

I have just unscrewed all the screws and call me a noob but...why isn't it popping off? is there a hidden screw or does it take some prying force?


----------



## PurdueCIA

Just removed the fixed stand and the plastic arch. Now my monitor just stays blank! There's solid green light on the monitor and on the power brick, windows detected catleap as DUAL-DVI monitor (I've multi monitors setup, FYI), but nothing would be displayed...AMD catalyst and power strip also detected the catleap with correct resolution 2560x1440. I was working fine yesterday for few hours...I just want to put the sweet monitor on the desktop mount.

I am using 6950 2GB. Tried the included DVI-D cable on other monitor and it works - only have 1 dual link DVI-D cable at the moment.

I hate to open up the monitor again. Any suggestion? Thanks!


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> Ok I tried all of your suggestions, nothing worked, I am getting a flashing green light and unforutuantely I only have one dvi-d cable but I confirmed it's not the cable itself.
> I have just unscrewed all the screws and call me a noob but...why isn't it popping off? is there a hidden screw or does it take some prying force?


Well, we've similar situation, but my light is solid green (I believe it means there's video signal). In your case (flashing green) I believe monitor is up, but there's no video signal detected - if I unplugged the DVI-D cable, the catleap would flash green.

On the OP page (first page) you'd find how to open up the catleap. The instruction provided by OP is very clear.
I just hate to open up the monitor again, the front bezel is flaky, tiny pressure with flat tip screwdriver would chip it - expected from the cheap price.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> I have just unscrewed all the screws and call me a noob but...why isn't it popping off? is there a hidden screw or does it take some prying force?


Does take some force, but not a lot. There are several 3-pronged snap-on clips on each edge of the bezel that need to be unhooked. Pressing inward from the side on the front-most section of the bezel makes it easier to unhook them. If you have an old credit card (or equivalent), use the corner to press gently inward between the front and back bezel sections where the clips are. The clips are not visible when doing this, but by sliding the card along the edge you can feel them. It gets easier after the first few.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illli*
> 
> how or where are you getting a guaranteed 2b with perfect pixel?
> if you know how to use a screwdriver it wont be that difficult to replace the pcb in the one you have now


Cloth said his perfect pixel series ($75 more) are 2Bs.

If it will be very easy to replace the PCB later for OC, I will just do that. I was thinking it would be complex with soldering, etc. I don't do that stuff


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> My bottom right corner is darker + yellower. It's not massively noticeable, but you can kind of see it if you drag a window from one side to another. Would this be caused by the backlight or the panel itself?


The monitors tend to have a bit of a darker strip along the bottom edge, most emphasized in the right corner. It's pretty minor, and most of them have it at least to some degree; I suspect it's caused by the combination of backlight and diffuser not being absolutely perfect in terms of spreading light evenly.


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Just removed the fixed stand and the plastic arch. Now my monitor just stays blank! There's solid green light on the monitor and on the power brick, windows detected catleap as DUAL-DVI monitor (I've multi monitors setup, FYI), but nothing would be displayed...AMD catalyst and power strip also detected the catleap with correct resolution 2560x1440. I was working fine yesterday for few hours...I just want to put the sweet monitor on the desktop mount.
> I am using 6950 2GB. Tried the included DVI-D cable on other monitor and it works - only have 1 dual link DVI-D cable at the moment.
> I hate to open up the monitor again. Any suggestion? Thanks!


Do you have your monitor on a VESA mount now? If so then try uncrewing the mount screws a bit. If you tighten them too much then they short on the innards.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> Do you have your monitor on a VESA mount now? If so then try uncrewing the mount screws a bit. If you tighten them too much then they short on the innards.


Oh, I opened up the monitor again and found out the white cable hooked up reverse. It worked, then I was tying to put the bezel and now I just ruined my monitor, I broke the OSD connector, the solder connection broke!

I am totally screwed now, I have to find someone who can solder it for me and hope it will work! Oh gosh, this terrible bezel ruined it for me!


----------



## atmosfar

If anyone wants to playback a 1440P video to show off the monitor, I used this http://red.cachefly.net/TimeScapes4K2560p.mp4 and MPC-HC + madVR with this guide: http://haruhichan.com/wpblog/?p=205


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2300LED Any major reports of Dead Pixels? and it's still an 8 bit panel right?


^ Anyone?


----------



## Miagi100

I have removed the bezel (+tempered glass)
I have removed the main screen from the frame, ( unhooking 3 cables)
Now what, which cables should I take out and unplugg ( I'm troubleshooting a loose wire, this was my last option)
Do I have to mess with any cables inside the actual screen ( I see there are some screws that could be possibly taken out of the back of the screen)
there are also other cables in the back of the frame.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> If anyone wants to playback a 1440P video to show off the monitor, I used this http://red.cachefly.net/TimeScapes4K2560p.mp4 and MPC-HC + madVR with this guide: http://haruhichan.com/wpblog/?p=205


Is it just me or does the video flicker sporadically? If not what player are you using?


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Is it just me or does the video flicker sporadically? If not what player are you using?


Read my post more carefully


----------



## stryker7314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Posted this in the other thread, but this one might find it relevant as well.
> 
> So, update on the pixel clock shenanigans:
> 
> _Response and Service Request History:
> 
> Would you be able to send the EDID information that is coming from the monitor?
> 
> This utility will provide information on how the EEPROM chip or the driver file from the monitor is reporting this to the OS.
> 
> 1. Please provide the EDID report (using GetEDID.exe) of your monitor while it is connected to the graphics card. You can obtain the GetEDID.exe file from the following location using an FTP Client Software like FileZilla or CuteFTP.
> 
> *snip for privacy*
> 
> In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> AMD Global Customer Care_
> 
> So, ToastyX or bqvle or whoever has the technical know-how and the monitor with OC parts, please PM me for this info


Has there been an update on this?


----------



## kiamori

Just a followup from my original post, I added the pics. Still working great. Removed the tempered glass front without a problem. I think someone was asking about that before.

Removed the tempered glass front, came off pretty easy.wrapped it in plastic to keep the dust off in case I want to put it back on later.


Here is the screen 1 month later, still no bad pixels or anything. some neat looking digital art on the screen (not my art).


----------



## Djankie

Tomorrow I will get this eyefinity adapter and I'll make pics of my monitors:

DELL U2711 - Hazo 27C - CatLeap 27

btw: Does anyone have a nice wallpaper for 3x2560 x 1440?


----------



## mydsmbr

just a short info for the macbook users:
the monitor works with a mbp mid2010 (nvidia GT330m) with an active mDP->D-DVI adapter.


----------



## Miagi100

I have exhausted every option for troubleshooting, my computer is still recognizing the monitor but as always says "unable to save display settings"
either I broke the monitor while dissembling it and putting it back together or the LED power light is broken which could be a possibility, I had trouble with the corner screw right behind it and I used a little bit of force to get it out... either way monitor is still useless....any other possibilities what causes the display settings to say that error?


----------



## atmosfar

Have you tried both DVI ports on your graphics card? Is it one of the models where there is a switch you need to flick for dual link?


----------



## Miagi100

I don't think so? I have a Sapphire Radeon 6950 2g version. I have two dual ports, one dual dvi-d and one dual dvi-i

I just tried to do a bunch of switchups and see what happened.

- with my old monitor (X) and the catleap being (Y)

I plugged X into an hdmi port, while Y was plugged into dvi-i, it was weird..I could see my wallpaper on X but still nothing on Y and I couldn't click anything on X either.
When I kept X in the hdmi port and plugged Y into dual dvi-d which is where it's suppose to go, my computer recognized it but again it says "unable to save display settings"


----------



## shadow19935

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> I have exhausted every option for troubleshooting, my computer is still recognizing the monitor but as always says "unable to save display settings"
> either I broke the monitor while dissembling it and putting it back together or the LED power light is broken which could be a possibility, I had trouble with the corner screw right behind it and I used a little bit of force to get it out... either way monitor is still useless....any other possibilities what causes the display settings to say that error?


I get the same Unable to save display settings after updating to the nevest ATI software.


----------



## eshiku

Just received my q270 se from bigclothcraft. He shipped it out Monday night and it received it Wednesday morning !!

No dead pixels,but one big problem i have with the one i received is that the left side is much darker then the right one

How do i fix this? or it will even out over time?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> Just received my q270 se from bigclothcraft. He shipped it out Monday night and it received it Wednesday morning !!
> No dead pixels,but one big problem i have with the one i received is that the left side is much darker then the right one
> How do i fix this? or it will even out over time?


It probably won't even out over time, and there's a couple possible causes; if you push the brightness of your monitor all the way down to minimum does the monitor go totally dark (or very close to it), or does it stay at least somewhat lit? Does the amount of unevenness change based on how high you have the brightness set?


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> I don't think so? I have a Sapphire Radeon 6950 2g version. I have two dual ports, one dual dvi-d and one dual dvi-i
> 
> I just tried to do a bunch of switchups and see what happened.
> 
> - with my old monitor (X) and the catleap being (Y)
> 
> I plugged X into an hdmi port, while Y was plugged into dvi-i, it was weird..I could see my wallpaper on X but still nothing on Y and I couldn't click anything on X either.
> When I kept X in the hdmi port and plugged Y into dual dvi-d which is where it's suppose to go, my computer recognized it but again it says "unable to save display settings"


try changing bios (with the switch)


----------



## eshiku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> It probably won't even out over time, and there's a couple possible causes; if you push the brightness of your monitor all the way down to minimum does the monitor go totally dark (or very close to it), or does it stay at least somewhat lit? Does the amount of unevenness change based on how high you have the brightness set?


When it turn the brightness all the down to minimum the screen i still pretty readable.

If i turn the brightness up to max, the unevenness is a little bit less noticeable.

But my room is pretty dark, so using a bright screen for a long period of time is hard.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

PCB OP Update.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> I don't think so? I have a Sapphire Radeon 6950 2g version. I have two dual ports, one dual dvi-d and one dual dvi-i
> 
> I just tried to do a bunch of switchups and see what happened.
> 
> - with my old monitor (X) and the catleap being (Y)
> 
> I plugged X into an hdmi port, while Y was plugged into dvi-i, it was weird..I could see my wallpaper on X but still nothing on Y and I couldn't click anything on X either.
> When I kept X in the hdmi port and plugged Y into dual dvi-d which is where it's suppose to go, my computer recognized it but again it says "unable to save display settings"


Pictures would be helpful - card plugs (do you have the switch on it?) Screen shots? I am at a loss since I don't know much about your vid card (which could be the culprit). Do you have access to another card or even computer to test the monitor on?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Interesting. With the new guts in the monitor it has become a "buzzer." Cool. Now I know what people are talking about. In this case I can tell that the thingamagig is buzzing against the metal cover (I have it tilted up and can feel it.) Will try to insert a little padding to see if it stops and will edit this post with my results. These PCBs really need the cutout version of the cover like I received with my original 2B monitor.

EDIT: A small amount of 2-sided tape cleared up the buzz for me. This may not be the case for all, but my PCB was buzzing against the cover.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> I don't think so? I have a Sapphire Radeon 6950 2g version. I have two dual ports, one dual dvi-d and one dual dvi-i
> 
> I just tried to do a bunch of switchups and see what happened.
> 
> - with my old monitor (X) and the catleap being (Y)
> 
> I plugged X into an hdmi port, while Y was plugged into dvi-i, it was weird..I could see my wallpaper on X but still nothing on Y and I couldn't click anything on X either.
> When I kept X in the hdmi port and plugged Y into dual dvi-d which is where it's suppose to go, my computer recognized it but again it says "unable to save display settings"
> 
> 
> 
> Pictures would be helpful - card plugs (do you have the switch on it?) Screen shots? I am at a loss since I don't know much about your vid card (which could be the culprit). Do you have access to another card or even computer to test the monitor on?
Click to expand...

I just experienced something similar to yours. Here's what happened and what I did. If you have been following along, I just took apart my non-OC monitor to test the OC PCBs I just received today. OC success, cleared the buzz (for future reference in my case), and then dropped the non-OC PCBs back into the monitor (boo hoo, bye bye 100hz!)

I don't consider myself an expert here by any means, but am aware of how these things come apart and go back together. Having said that, once my non-OC monitor was together, and before I installed the bezel, VESA mount, etc., I wanted to confirm everything was ok. Initially, it wasn't. In my case I had three things that created the issue (one of which won't apply in your case.)

First - the monitor didn't show up at all in the nVidia control panel. Crap! Something is loose and I don't want to tear it apart again! So I unplugged power and DVI. Then plugged power, turned on monitor by pressing power button, then plugged in DVI (heard the Windows sound that something new is connected), but no joy in the control panel.

Second, I simply unplugged and then plugged in the DVI (monitor side) this time pressing pretty hard (some people have reported that their DVI plug barely connects due to the back's design). Success! nVidia control panel saw the monitor, I switch to native, and all is good (this is the third thing).

Could your issue be as simple as pushing the cable in a tad harder? No idea, but heck try it. I would still love for you to connect it to another computer with an aftermarket DVI cable to see what happens (no other monitors connected when you try it.)

Report back!


----------



## Beauwulf

Ordered mine today through Amazon... $368 w/3day shipping. Last one available from "EASTAR". Nice to have the Amazon buyer protection plan on this.... Not many seller reviews on this guy though..... 4 but all 5 stars. Anyone else buy from him?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/redirect.h...com/gp/product/B007OWDW34/ref=ox_ya_os_produc

Hope it's a good one!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beauwulf*
> 
> Ordered mine today through Amazon... $368 w/3day shipping. Last one available from "EASTAR". Nice to have the Amazon buyer protection plan on this.... Not many seller reviews on this guy though..... 4 but all 5 stars. Anyone else buy from him?
> 
> Hope it's a good one!


Very interesting - first I have heard someone using Amazon for the purchase - keep us informed.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> Has there been an update on this?


Answered your PM about it. Not really. I got the EDID from ToastyX, but haven't heard anything back from AMD which is probably a sign








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> PCB OP Update.


Nice


----------



## Beauwulf

Will do... BTW... Thanks for all the great info in this thread! Helped me decide to give this panel a try...


----------



## TheJesus

This was just discussed in the other thread.

DO NOT POST LINKS TO EBAY.

(please add this to the OP)


----------



## Beauwulf

Just for information sake ( I am not the seller)... here's another try at putting up the Amazon link for those interested in, what looks to be, a bit more ligit transaction.

Amazon Link

OK... that's better...


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> This was just discussed in the other thread.
> 
> DO NOT POST LINKS TO EBAY.
> 
> (please add this to the OP)


This has been discussed over and over - I do not post the links to eBay, but they show up anyway (here and all the other threads related to these monitors.) I will add the disclaimer. People don't read the OP (I think) they just skip to the end and post away!







Not sure why it is bad, it is just bad apparently. Although links are all over the original thread with no comment from forum gurus (I only know because I asked before I started the club.)


----------



## Eagle1337

NO info on CATLEAP 2300LED?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> This has been discussed over and over - I do not post the links to eBay, but they show up anyway (here and all the other threads related to these monitors.) I will add the disclaimer. People don't read the OP (I think) they just skip to the end and post away!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not sure why it is bad, it is just bad apparently. Although links are all over the original thread with no comment from forum gurus (I only know because I asked before I started the club.)


I know you don't







I meant everyone else that might casually glance at the OP before demanding answers









The original thread has been completely ripped apart by Bitemarks and bloodstains to remove all eBay posts. Took him/her about 5 hours


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> NO info on CATLEAP 2300LED?


Um, why? It's a 1920 monitor and they aren't any more special than any you can get elsewhere. It's the 27s that are masters of the universe at the moment.


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Um, why? It's a 1920 monitor and they aren't any more special than any you can get elsewhere. It's the 27s that are masters of the universe at the moment.


SO it's just a normal 6 bit panel, with an AG coating? that and it's cheaper then dell's 23"..


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> SO it's just a normal 6 bit panel, with an AG coating? that and it's cheaper then dell's 23"..


Why not spend like $70 more and get the 2560 panels?

Also, if you can figure out what actual panel the 2300LED uses you can see the details here: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Well I got an email around 3:00 AM asking the same questions replied @ 5:27 AM and nothing after. I've sent 3 emails that have gone unanswered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Funny before I bought the monitor I asked a few questions and within a hour or so always got a reply. I think I'll just order from another seller and try to unload one locally. I'm not normally so impatient, just with vacation and all I really wanted to receive it fast.


Well after getting no responce in 2 days I cancelled my order. In the sellers defense he quickly refunded my paypal. Now here's where it gets strange..I used funds from my bank account and paypal has placed a hold on my refund. Has this ever happened to anyone else? I emailed them about an hour ago and haven't heard back from them







So next week I'll try again to finally get a Catleap.


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Why not spend like $70 more and get the 2560 panels?
> Also, if you can figure out what actual panel the 2300LED uses you can see the details here: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm


70$ more then i'm willing to pay and size limitations. none of them match up spec wise then again i don't know exactly what i'm looking for.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> 70$ more then i'm willing to pay and size limitations. none of them match up spec wise then again i don't think i see dell's 23" panel in there either.


Up to you, I just don't really see a reason in paying $260 for one of these









Which 23 from Dell?


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Up to you, I just don't really see a reason in paying $260 for one of these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which 23 from Dell?


the u2311hm ( or was it u2312hm?) I found the specs of that panel anyways.


----------



## TheJesus

Dell U2312HM - 8ms G2G 23"WS - LG.Display e-IPS (LM230WF3-SLD1) - 16.7M (6-bit+A-FRC)

No idea what panel is in the 2300LED though.


----------



## Qiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> PCB OP Update.


whoa! that is great news that it is working


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> I have exhausted every option for troubleshooting, my computer is still recognizing the monitor but as always says "unable to save display settings"
> either I broke the monitor while dissembling it and putting it back together or the LED power light is broken which could be a possibility, I had trouble with the corner screw right behind it and I used a little bit of force to get it out... either way monitor is still useless....any other possibilities what causes the display settings to say that error?


So I have the same sapphire 6950 2GB w/ 1x DVI output, 1x HDMI, and 2x display ports on the first row, while at the bottom row it only has 1x DVI output.
I only can connect the catleap with the DVI output on the first row, I have tried with other outputs, none works.

Long story short, I opened up the catleap to remove the fixed stand and the plastic arch. When I put everything back again, I messed up the connection (the white cable was connected in reverse) - on the OP page for instruction to remove the stand, you'd see the white wires I was referring to.

Without knowing I made this mistake, I powered catleap and connected it to the supplied DVI cable which was working fine yesterday and this morning - but I only get blank display.
LED on monitor is solid green, windows display properties detects it (w/ the correct resolution) - but still only blank screen and I can't save the resolution changes done on the catleap. Exactly what you experiencing.

So I opened up the monitor again, and found out the white cable was wrongly connected. Tested it out perfectly, catleap displayed images. Not sure if yakamasi did QA control on every monitor they made but that maybe some connections are loose.

Later, I put the bezel again and screwed up the OSD PCB board connection to the monitor PCB - but that's another story.

I don't know if you'd like to try opening up the monitor and see anything wrong w/ any of the connectors? There are only 3 wires to check.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> PCB OP Update.


Scribby the amazing, are you getting the PCB board from yakamasi or another supplier?
If the former, could you also check whether they can sell the OSD PCB board together with the wires that are soldered to it? Thanks.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> PCB OP Update.
> 
> 
> 
> Scribby the amazing, are you getting the PCB board from yakamasi or another supplier?
> If the former, could you also check whether they can sell the OSD PCB board together with the wires that are soldered to it? Thanks.
Click to expand...

Another supplier - PM sent.


----------



## Miagi100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I just experienced something similar to yours. Here's what happened and what I did. If you have been following along, I just took apart my non-OC monitor to test the OC PCBs I just received today. OC success, cleared the buzz (for future reference in my case), and then dropped the non-OC PCBs back into the monitor (boo hoo, bye bye 100hz!)
> 
> I don't consider myself an expert here by any means, but am aware of how these things come apart and go back together. Having said that, once my non-OC monitor was together, and before I installed the bezel, VESA mount, etc., I wanted to confirm everything was ok. Initially, it wasn't. In my case I had three things that created the issue (one of which won't apply in your case.)
> 
> First - the monitor didn't show up at all in the nVidia control panel. Crap! Something is loose and I don't want to tear it apart again! So I unplugged power and DVI. Then plugged power, turned on monitor by pressing power button, then plugged in DVI (heard the Windows sound that something new is connected), but no joy in the control panel.
> 
> Second, I simply unplugged and then plugged in the DVI (monitor side) this time pressing pretty hard (some people have reported that their DVI plug barely connects due to the back's design). Success! nVidia control panel saw the monitor, I switch to native, and all is good (this is the third thing).
> 
> Could your issue be as simple as pushing the cable in a tad harder? No idea, but heck try it. I would still love for you to connect it to another computer with an aftermarket DVI cable to see what happens (no other monitors connected when you try it.)
> 
> Report back!


This wasn't the issue to begin with but it looks like I have run into another problem, the power connector near all the buttons was slanted, I touched it like it was a feather and it came loose... now I have a detached power connector not sure if this could have been the culprit either way, I need to get this sucker back on, what are my steps from here? I have access to a soldering gun but I have no experience.

PICS: GPU+ it's bios switch ( Its a sapphire radeon 6950 2g version.)
also the disconnected power connecter and the rear panel of my monitor.
third image is of the side of the GPU it's really hard to tell but the bios switch is to the right of the red wire near the top.



http://imgur.com/QzPR7


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Another supplier - PM sent.


Are these PCBs available? or is everyone waiting for the 100Hz monitor guarantee?


----------



## Steven185

Hi, I own 2xHD5850s crossfire and I'm looking into these monitors.

...I can pretty much play everything maxed at 1080p so I said -what the hell- let me try greater resolutions, and since these are the only economical monitors of such resolutions on the market I was meaning to inquire: Would I be able to make HD5850 work with this monitor?
I know that it is not officially support and everything, but is there any hack to make my cards play well with this 4Mpixel deliciousness?


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> Hi, I own 2xHD5850s crossfire and I'm looking into these monitors.
> ...I can pretty much play everything maxed at 1080p so I said -what the hell- let me try greater resolutions, and since these are the only economical monitors of such resolutions on the market I was meaning to inquire: Would I be able to make HD5850 work with this monitor?
> I know that it is not officially support and everything, but is there any hack to make my cards play well with this 4Mpixel deliciousness?


5850s don't seem to be compatible.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> This wasn't the issue to begin with but it looks like I have run into another problem, the power connector near all the buttons was slanted, I touched it like it was a feather and it came loose... now I have a detached power connector not sure if this could have been the culprit either way, I need to get this sucker back on, what are my steps from here? I have access to a soldering gun but I have no experience.
> PICS: GPU+ it's bios switch ( Its a sapphire radeon 6950 2g version.)
> also the disconnected power connecter and the rear panel of my monitor.
> third image is of the side of the GPU it's really hard to tell but the bios switch is to the right of the red wire near the top.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/QzPR7


Oh gosh! that is exactly what happened to me! But I inflicted the pain myself...I went to ask my friend for favor and he'll try to solder them back. If all pins are stil intact and they're cleanly seperated it should be OK to solder them back again. When this happened, my screen just stay blank. Can't swith the monitor from standby mode (sold red light) to on (green solid) w/ the connection broke...

I belive this could be the culprit of your problem.


----------



## p33k

I was getting ready to take my stand off today now you people breaking loose these cables have me more nervous!

When I am popping off the bezel should I have the monitor laying down with screen facing down or facing upwards?


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> 2C's are amazing unless you're someone who absolutely NEEDS 120hz. If all you are coming from a 60hz monitor then you WILL be amazed. It literally looks JUST like the Apple monitor (the screen, not the bezel obviously). It's a great monitor and a great monitor for gaming.
> Twitch gamers will probably stick with their 120hz 1080p displays but for the rest of us this is an amazing monitor, even at 60hz.


I'm a graphic designer so I work on a Mac pretty much all day and the Catleap, which is what I use for gaming, does not look the same. I find that the iMac shows way better, but the Catleap still looks good.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I was getting ready to take my stand off today now you people breaking loose these cables have me more nervous!
> 
> When I am popping off the bezel should I have the monitor laying down with screen facing down or facing upwards?


Just be careful with the connections. You do not need to take the OSD connector off to remove the panel (nor should you IMO). That connects to the DVI PCB. The only 2 (possibly 3 if you have a 2B OC version) cables that need to be disconnected are the DVI PCB to LED cable and the DVI PCB to Panel PCB. These are robust enough that I have taken mine apart 8 or so times with no issues. The OSD board has a simple slide on connector on the DVI PCB (see the OP for pics). I would definitely recommend to NOT touch the OSD PCB unless you had to remove it - and even then disconnect from the DVI PCB before the OSD PCB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> This wasn't the issue to begin with but it looks like I have run into another problem, the power connector near all the buttons was slanted, I touched it like it was a feather and it came loose... now I have a detached power connector not sure if this could have been the culprit either way, I need to get this sucker back on, what are my steps from here? I have access to a soldering gun but I have no experience.
> 
> PICS: GPU+ it's bios switch ( Its a sapphire radeon 6950 2g version.)
> also the disconnected power connecter and the rear panel of my monitor.
> third image is of the side of the GPU it's really hard to tell but the bios switch is to the right of the red wire near the top.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/QzPR7


You will need to reattach that somehow. Then you can OC once you get your card figured out! Dual cables, dual cables!!!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Another supplier - PM sent.
> 
> 
> 
> Are these PCBs available? or is everyone waiting for the 100Hz monitor guarantee?
Click to expand...

These are not available, yet. Working on it. I am not waiting as I have 2 - 1 OC and 1 non-OC - I need me some PCBs! (Wait, I have a set right now no need to send these off to get destroyed . . . .







)


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I was getting ready to take my stand off today now you people breaking loose these cables have me more nervous!
> When I am popping off the bezel should I have the monitor laying down with screen facing down or facing upwards?


You work on the edges so you are not facing it down or upwards as in the OP (read it and follow that!). You need to do it slowly and if your really forcing it hard (so that parts or panels would fly off from the force your applying) then your not doing it right. The bezel should not come flying off. Slowly pry things open and look for where cables are attached and disconnect them to avoid stressing connectors, cables and parts. Yes the workmanship on these monitors might not be the best and cables do get dislodged but with care most folks shouldn't run into an issue. If something is stuck take a picture and post a question here vs trying to force it and having to fix it later.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> These are not available, yet. Working on it. I am not waiting as I have 2 - 1 OC and 1 non-OC - I need me some PCBs! (Wait, I have a set right now no need to send these off to get destroyed . . . .
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


I bet thousands of 2bs PCBs are sitting in a warehouse in Korea somewhere after Catleap and others decided to go with 2c.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I was getting ready to take my stand off today now you people breaking loose these cables have me more nervous!
> When I am popping off the bezel should I have the monitor laying down with screen facing down or facing upwards?


Well, like I said, I caused the broken connection. I laid the monitor sideway, putting all of its weight across the bottom part when I was trying to install the bezel again.

My suggestion which worked first time I opened it up, put the bezel at the bottom and lay the screen ontop and they should snap.
Just becareful with the OSD area, you should be fine.


----------



## ezmo85

My Catleap arrived today! 2C version, I'm not going to bother trying to overclock. 1 stuck pixel that I can see :-/ but oh well, I had to make my whole screen white and scrutinize it closely to find it, so I'm not bitter. I got the tempered glass version (glare doesn't bother me at all), and there is a (slight) bit of dust, but I doubt I'll even bother taking the glass off to get rid of it. Also has speakers which of course aren't great quality, but they do put out about the equivalent of laptop sound. Overall picture is gorgeous! No backlight gradient, no power adapter issues, no DVI cable issues. Totally worth the money, even with the stuck pixel. Ordered from green-sum on sunday night, arrived this afternoon (thursday).

If anyone has any suggestions for "un-stucking" a pixel though, I'm all ears!


----------



## digitalforce

My Fedex tracking number says my Catleap 2D will be here on Tuesday. Should I go ahead and order DVI cables from Monoprice now or should I be ok with supplied cable? I don't even know where I would get a good cable locally in Utah...

Also, I have an i5-2500k overclocked to 4.3ghz and an OC'd MSI GTX 580 Lightning -- Will I be ok running most games? Has anyone needed to use anti aliasing with such tight pixels?


----------



## bjgrenke

What's the advantage of the tempered glass model? I'm trying to decide between regular Catleap with no speakers or glass, Catleap with glass, or Shimian.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> My Fedex tracking number says my Catleap 2D will be here on Tuesday. Should I go ahead and order DVI cables from Monoprice now or should I be ok with supplied cable? I don't even know where I would get a good cable locally in Utah...
> Also, I have an i5-2500k overclocked to 4.3ghz and an OC'd MSI GTX 580 Lightning -- Will I be ok running most games? Has anyone needed to use anti aliasing with such tight pixels?


The cables are a mixed bag; some are fine, others are not. You'll know pretty soon once you try it if yours is okay or not, but if you want to be safe (and not have to wait) then order a good one. The cable is also quite short (4ft I think) so you may need a longer one anyways.

You'll probably be in pretty good shape if you're only driving one of them; AA is still beneficial even at this kind of resolution, but it's less painful to have it off than lower ppi monitors. The cost for enabling AA is also much higher (more pixels means more memory and more memory bandwidth, which is compounded with AA on) - if you want it on you'd probably only need to aim for 2x or so anyways with classic AA modes (MSAA).


----------



## teinnow

I'd buy 3 for eyefinity if the bezels are small


----------



## digitalforce

On DVI cables, what is the difference between 28AWG on Monoprice vs the more expensive 24AWG cables? Does it matter for the Cat?









Also, my 1080p 27" HP monitor is hooked via DVI to GTX 580 right now. How can I tell if that cable will work with the Catleap?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> On DVI cables, what is the difference between 28AWG on Monoprice vs the more expensive 24AWG cables? Does it matter for the Cat?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, my 1080p 27" HP monitor is hooked via DVI to GTX 580 right now. How can I tell if that cable will work with the Catleap?


28 is fine - I run 24 since they are a distance from my comp and the price isn't that much more.

See the OP please for a picture.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> 28 is fine - I run 24 since they are a distance from my comp and the price isn't that much more.
> 
> See the OP please for a picture.


Good thing I checked. I have an old school DVI cable -- Ordering now from Mono. So is 24 just a higher quality cable? I am just getting a 6 footer regardless.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> 28 is fine - I run 24 since they are a distance from my comp and the price isn't that much more.
> 
> See the OP please for a picture.
> 
> 
> 
> Good thing I checked. I have an old school DVI cable -- Ordering now from Mono. So is 24 just a higher quality cable? I am just getting a 6 footer regardless.
Click to expand...

 28 is fine. 24 is just larger diameter wire better for longer runs - although not really needed even at the distance I am running (I just go a little overkill on stuff.) Some people have said it isn't bendy, but I haven't had any problems with higher gauge cables.


----------



## fsrick

Has any one in here contacted with bigclothcraft recently. I tried to buy the monitor from him, but I want to check the screen first (just want to get a AG screen). Got no reply for the last couple days.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fsrick*
> 
> Has any one in here contacted with bigclothcraft recently. I tried to buy the monitor from him, but I want to check the screen first (just want to get a AG screen). Got no reply for the last couple days.


I heard from him today -- He is sold out of perfect pixel and is getting new stock in today. He was going to write me back but the English is quite difficult to decipher


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fsrick*
> 
> Has any one in here contacted with bigclothcraft recently. I tried to buy the monitor from him, but I want to check the screen first (just want to get a AG screen). Got no reply for the last couple days.


There is only one Anti Glare monitor..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1241684/any-reviews-for-davi-d279sv-vgq2-korean-monitor

Davi D279SV-VGQ2


----------



## fsrick

so all the Q270s are with glossy screens?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> There is only one Anti Glare monitor..
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1241684/any-reviews-for-davi-d279sv-vgq2-korean-monitor
> Davi D279SV-VGQ2


----------



## Neo Mike

Well im officaly in the club







got me a Q27 Multi, i was able to get green-sum down on the price







. Im sure the speakers suck on it, but i want the Hdmi port. I also diched my 5770 and got me a 6850.

Hopefully no dead pixels and she is all in tact.


----------



## ToxicAdam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fsrick*
> 
> Has any one in here contacted with bigclothcraft recently. I tried to buy the monitor from him, but I want to check the screen first (just want to get a AG screen). Got no reply for the last couple days.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> There is only one Anti Glare monitor..
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1241684/any-reviews-for-davi-d279sv-vgq2-korean-monitor
> Davi D279SV-VGQ2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fsrick*
> 
> so all the Q270s are with glossy screens?


Yes.


----------



## fsrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> Yes.


Thanks. Well, I still bite the bullet and purchased the Q270 from him. For some reason, he just keep ignoring me


----------



## digitalforce

I have a strong feeling that there were be 50 different brands and models of these panels in the next few months... I might be changing my display out like underpants!

Went and looked at the 27" Apple Cinema Display again today just to drool.. hope I am not settings myself up too much.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> I have a strong feeling that there were be 50 different brands and models of these panels in the next few months... I might be changing my display out like underpants!
> Went and looked at the 27" Apple Cinema Display again today just to drool.. hope I am not settings myself up too much.


They look the same but the Catleap has a lower response time and better cd/m2.


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> They look the same but the Catleap has a lower response time and better cd/m2.


Awesome! can't wait to try it out...


----------



## p33k

I don't know why I was so nervous about opening it up and taking off the stand. It was a piece of cake! Unfortunately for the meantime I have to put my speakers on their sides...


----------



## p33k

I took some pics of inside since it was a 2D serial. I forgot my wife had left the dslr at home so took with my iphone, most came out blurry, but here are two.


----------



## shadow19935

Hi, i have been following this thread for quite a while now and im pretty much set on buying a catleap.

I have a few questions though:

1. Your best of buying a pixel perfect as then they check for any dead pixels and you shouldnt have any? Also i head the perfect pixel gives me a different sort of pcb? the OC thing? so is that guaranteed 100hz??

2. I think i will buy from bigclothcraft? whats the difference between:
Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 27" LED (with speakers) at £270.17 and Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 *SE* 27" LED (without speakers) @ £281 booth on big cloth craft.

So can someone please advise on what monitor to get ? with speakers without speakers with glass without glass?? perfect pixel normal? etc?


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miagi100*
> 
> Ok I tried all of your suggestions, nothing worked, I am getting a flashing green light and unforutuantely I only have one dvi-d cable but I confirmed it's not the cable itself.


Not necessarily because afaik you didn't test the cable @ 2560x1440 which is much higher bandwidth and needs a more reliable cable.

I am using the cable that came with mine and it is working perfectly, although there is an option in the ATi control panel which enables you to you use a lower bandwidth signalling mode for higher resolutions to increase stability. You might want to try that, or perhaps try what atmosfar did.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToxicAdam*
> 
> 5850s don't seem to be compatible.


The chart is not correct as there are 2x5770 and 2x5850 owners running the monitor just fine.


----------



## Steven185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> The chart is not correct as there are 2x5770 and 2x5850 owners running the monitor just fine.


Thanks man that's what I was looking for







.
Do you know if they managed it with any hack or extra accessory or did they ran it out of the box?


----------



## KaRLiToS

Hey guys, I'm having a problem and I can't find any help no where.

I have 3 x Crossover 27Q Led-P, I set the display in eyefinity 3x1 and whenever I try to restart the computer or change the resolution in a game, all my screens goes blank (as usual) and when they turn back on, the left screen is always flickering. Like if it can't detect the signal. Like if the monitor enters an endless loop, trying to turn on but turning off right away.

So I have to turn off the power of that monitor, unplug, DVI cable (I have two 100$ dongles, DVI to Mini display port, usb powered). Plug it back to the power and plug the DVI cable and it works that way.

What is causing this?

Please help


----------



## simplec6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having a problem and I can't find any help no where.
> 
> I have 3 x Crossover 27Q Led-P, I set the display in eyefinity 3x1 and whenever I try to restart the computer or change the resolution in a game, all my screens goes blank (as usual) and when they turn back on, the left screen is always flickering. Like if it can't detect the signal. Like if the monitor enters an endless loop, trying to turn on but turning off right away.
> 
> So I have to turn off the power of that monitor, unplug, DVI cable (I have two 100$ dongles, DVI to Mini display port, usb powered). Plug it back to the power and plug the DVI cable and it works that way.
> 
> What is causing this?
> 
> Please help


Possibly the dongle. Swap dongles and isolate if its always the one Monitor that does it.


----------



## CharlesK

I might be asking a stupid question but I don't see how to disconnect the t-con board from the panel board, do I need to pull hard ? or is there something that preventing it to come off ?

edit : ok, that was simple, I didn't saw the latch


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow19935*
> 
> Hi, i have been following this thread for quite a while now and im pretty much set on buying a catleap.
> I have a few questions though:
> 1. Your best of buying a pixel perfect as then they check for any dead pixels and you shouldnt have any? Also i head the perfect pixel gives me a different sort of pcb? the OC thing? so is that guaranteed 100hz??
> 2. I think i will buy from bigclothcraft? whats the difference between:
> Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 27" LED (with speakers) at £270.17 and Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 *SE* 27" LED (without speakers) @ £281 booth on big cloth craft.
> So can someone please advise on what monitor to get ? with speakers without speakers with glass without glass?? perfect pixel normal? etc?


People have purchased pixel perfect and received dead pixels.

You won't be able to OC any of the monitors unless you get extremely lucky (it's random)

The SE version has more inputs, i.e. HDMI, the non SE version is better due to lower input lag

Most people get it without glass because dust could occasionally get trapped under.


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I don't know why I was so nervous about opening it up and taking off the stand. It was a piece of cake! Unfortunately for the meantime I have to put my speakers on their sides...


Is your Catleap calibrated? Your colours look way better than mine. I made the switch from Mac to Windows (for gaming only) so I'm clueless on how to calibrate.


----------



## DrSmoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> People have purchased pixel perfect and received dead pixels.
> You won't be able to OC any of the monitors unless you get extremely lucky (it's random)
> The SE version has more inputs, i.e. HDMI, the non SE version is better due to lower input lag
> Most people get it without glass because dust could occasionally get trapped under.


This is due to people not reading the fine print. "Pixel Perfect" is not actually Perfect.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140723272177?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c3c2b9f1

Standards for Zero Defect. (quoted from ebay page)

"With Zero-defect test, 0 bright dot is normal. but. the factory policy is black (dark) dot is not a defection."

"more than 1" "bright dot" in the "central part (5)" of the screen, qualifies for a defective return.

Always read all the details.

Also, some of the cheaper models <$350 will have a line near the bottom " WILL have dead pixels"

So, pay attention to all the fine print when you are ordering these. Some have good guarantees, and some are guaranteed to be slightly defective. Others are neither.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm having a problem and I can't find any help no where.
> I have 3 x Crossover 27Q Led-P, I set the display in eyefinity 3x1 and whenever I try to restart the computer or change the resolution in a game, all my screens goes blank (as usual) and when they turn back on, the left screen is always flickering. Like if it can't detect the signal. Like if the monitor enters an endless loop, trying to turn on but turning off right away.
> So I have to turn off the power of that monitor, unplug, DVI cable (I have two 100$ dongles, DVI to Mini display port, usb powered). Plug it back to the power and plug the DVI cable and it works that way.
> What is causing this?
> Please help


I sometimes have similar problem with my dual (soon to be triple, but back to that in a minute) setup. If I switch the miniDP dongle from one to another one and reboots, it usually works fine.

Now, back to the 3 monitor deal. I've got my third on the way. Do you have all your monitors connected to one 6970?


----------



## Open1Your1Eyes0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrSmoke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> People have purchased pixel perfect and received dead pixels.
> You won't be able to OC any of the monitors unless you get extremely lucky (it's random)
> The SE version has more inputs, i.e. HDMI, the non SE version is better due to lower input lag
> Most people get it without glass because dust could occasionally get trapped under.
> 
> 
> 
> This is due to people not reading the fine print. "Pixel Perfect" is not actually Perfect.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140723272177?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c3c2b9f1
> 
> Standards for Zero Defect. (quoted from ebay page)
> 
> "With Zero-defect test, 0 bright dot is normal. but. the factory policy is black (dark) dot is not a defection."
> 
> "more than 1" "bright dot" in the "central part (5)" of the screen, qualifies for a defective return.
> 
> Always read all the details.
> 
> Also, some of the cheaper models <$350 will have a line near the bottom " WILL have dead pixels"
> 
> So, pay attention to all the fine print when you are ordering these. Some have good guarantees, and some are guaranteed to be slightly defective. Others are neither.
Click to expand...

Yes! Fine print is extremely crucial when it come to international sales. You definitely don't want to go playing cat and mouse with these companies when something goes wrong.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> Is your Catleap calibrated? Your colours look way better than mine. I made the switch from Mac to Windows (for gaming only) so I'm clueless on how to calibrate.


Thanks!

There is some info on the first page with profiles, etc on how to calibrate it a bit. Then I also just played with the colors a bit in the nvidia control panel. It might also look better because it's next to my Benq which has awful colors


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I sometimes have similar problem with my dual (soon to be triple, but back to that in a minute) setup. If I switch the miniDP dongle from one to another one and reboots, it usually works fine.
> Now, back to the 3 monitor deal. I've got my third on the way. Do you have all your monitors connected to one 6970?


Yes, I have One Monitor that has its DVi-D plugged in my first 6970 , then the two other monitors have a DVI-D to Mini-DisplayPort Active adapter (USB Powered) also plugeed in the first 6970.


----------



## Temego

Im kinda new to this stuff, but would a 27" Yamakasi work with my acer laptop? I definetely need an external 24 or 27 display for poker. The acer has a nvidia 540m if that matters.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I don't know why I was so nervous about opening it up and taking off the stand. It was a piece of cake! Unfortunately for the meantime I have to put my speakers on their sides...


What are you using for a stand/wall mount? Could you take some pics? I'm collecting info on this. TY.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadow19935*
> 
> Hi, i have been following this thread for quite a while now and im pretty much set on buying a catleap.
> I have a few questions though:
> 1. Your best of buying a pixel perfect as then they check for any dead pixels and you shouldnt have any? Also i head the perfect pixel gives me a different sort of pcb? the OC thing? so is that guaranteed 100hz??
> 2. I think i will buy from bigclothcraft? whats the difference between:
> Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 27" LED (with speakers) at £270.17 and Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 *SE* 27" LED (without speakers) @ £281 booth on big cloth craft.
> So can someone please advise on what monitor to get ? with speakers without speakers with glass without glass?? perfect pixel normal? etc?


Pixel perfect only means the monitor is checked against their deadpixel policy. It doesn't mean they have no dead pixels. Folks that did the pixel perfect got deadpixels and lots of folks w/o pixel perfect got perfect monitors. Check out the OP for the list of what people got and role the dice (for or against paying the extra $$).

If you want/need 100Hz either buy a catleap and upgrade with the boards or buy this in about a month - http://www.overclock.net/t/1232084/yamakasi-catleap-q270-100hz-guaranteed

Share more about what your planning to do and then folks can help you. Speakers are supposed to be crappy on the catleap and when was the last time someone actually used their monitor speakers when spending $350 on a monitor, not to mention joining a forum called OC.net.







The glass models are for folks that need to protect their screens from kids, net cafe customers, etc. I prefer no glass, since that is just another layer on top of the screen, but it is a preference thing.


----------



## Maximumoverload

I have Asus NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores DirectCU II with two Dual-link DVI-I . Can i use this card with these DVI-D monitors ?


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> What are you using for a stand/wall mount? Could you take some pics? I'm collecting info on this. TY.


It is from a company called Anyarm, think a Korean company. I ordered it off gmarket. Here is the link to where I bought it (has pics/info). I got it with a C-clamp. http://english.gmarket.co.kr/challenge/neo_goods/goods.asp?goodscode=190505263


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Temego*
> 
> Im kinda new to this stuff, but would a 27" Yamakasi work with my acer laptop? I definetely need an external 24 or 27 display for poker. The acer has a nvidia 540m if that matters.


What kind of video outputs does it have? You'll need either a dual-link DVI connector (not HDMI) or a displayport (or miniDP) with an active adapter (~$100)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximumoverload*
> 
> I have Asus NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 Ti 448 Cores DirectCU II with two Dual-link DVI-I . Can i use this card with these DVI-D monitors ?


Yes. the value after the dash with DVI conenctors simply refers to if it's digital-only (D), both analog and digital (I) or analog only (very rare, A). So long as it's a dual-link DVI port it'll work fine.


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> The chart is not correct as there are 2x5770 and 2x5850 owners running the monitor just fine.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man that's what I was looking for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Do you know if they managed it with any hack or extra accessory or did they ran it out of the box?
Click to expand...

Not sure. See the spreadsheets on page1 to see what video cards owners are using.


----------



## Neo Mike

Does anybody here have the Q27 multi with hdmi ?


----------



## Miagi100

I have no idea, but I am not going to question it.
Finally got it working after tons of troubleshooting.

I have random notes of what didn't work, what I did wrong etc, so Ima put em all down for future users.

Take your time getting the bezel off, and be extremely careful around the power button. Be patient and don't strip a screw and have to use a drill to get it out









I am currently running catalyst 11.8 because it's the only stable version that wants to work. AMD drivers are horrible, I got tons of errors with downloading the latest drivers and had to install net. framework that didn't help at all so today I learned 11.8 works with the catleaps.

I managed to break my power connector to the panel with all the buttons, I don't think it was properly mounted, it came off too easy. Anyway you really don't need it. My monitor stays on no matter what, I could jerry-rig it, with some tape and what not to hold it in place but It wouldn't look cleanly and if I tried to wedge it in there, my tempered glass bezel will not fill.

So at first my computer didn't recognize the catleap at all, finally it did, and when it did I got an error message saying it was unable to save display settings. I unhooked everything off my PC, including the PSU cables, moved it downstairs ( for the sake of convenience). Plugged everything back in and boom got an image. A buddy of mine said unhooking my PSU on my computer probably flushed the mobo out, or any other hardware. Something technical to do with stored up useless energy, idk either way it worked!

Colors look amazing, is there a decent calibration tool to use with this? I would like to see if it could get even better!. My brightness settings seem perfect for my eyes at the moment, and at night if it bothers me I can always go through my catalyst control center to tone down the brightness.

EDIT: I don't notice any dead pixels from an arms length away. Bought mine from green-sum, fast shipping, good packaging just a little rough start.








Happy weekend!


----------



## Aquineas

I got my third one today; ordered on April 11, received today. My only issue? It's got no AG coating, and my other two do







. So if anyone out there has one with no dead-pixels and an AG coating and they wish to swap, PM me.


----------



## Gemsi

So I ordered one for BigClothCraft last week and it arrived yesterday and worked fine with some minor damage in that a couple of the screws holding the arc were snapped, but figured 'hey it works so meh'.

Today screen was working fine for an hour or so, walked out of the room and when I came back the power LED was flashing red, I figured it had just gone to sleep like my secondary screen had, moved the mouse but of course it didn't wake up.

So the power LED is flashing red, and the LED on the power brick is flashing green, this happens regardless of if a DVI cable is connected, but I have a new one on the way just to make sure, I have also opened it up at this point and checked everything was connected well and nothing is loose yet the problem persists.

Anyone got any ideas ?


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> So I ordered one for BigClothCraft last week and it arrived yesterday and worked fine with some minor damage in that a couple of the screws holding the arc were snapped, but figured 'hey it works so meh'.
> Today screen was working fine for an hour or so, walked out of the room and when I came back the power LED was flashing red, I figured it had just gone to sleep like my secondary screen had, moved the mouse but of course it didn't wake up.
> 
> So the power LED is flashing red, and the LED on the power brick is flashing green, this happens regardless of if a DVI cable is connected, but I have a new one on the way just to make sure, I have also opened it up at this point and checked everything was connected well and nothing is loose yet the problem persists.
> Anyone got any ideas ?


The one I just unpacked was flashing green and I started to get nervous until I securely tightened the DVI cable. Methinks if you have another cable on the way, it's not unreasonable to suspect that the cable (or connection) might be the culprit.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I got my third one today; ordered on April 11, received today. My only issue? It's got no AG coating, and my other two do
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So if anyone out there has one with no dead-pixels and an AG coating and they wish to swap, PM me.


PMed


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> So I ordered one for BigClothCraft last week and it arrived yesterday and worked fine with some minor damage in that a couple of the screws holding the arc were snapped, but figured 'hey it works so meh'.
> Today screen was working fine for an hour or so, walked out of the room and when I came back the power LED was flashing red, I figured it had just gone to sleep like my secondary screen had, moved the mouse but of course it didn't wake up.
> 
> So the power LED is flashing red, and the LED on the power brick is flashing green, this happens regardless of if a DVI cable is connected, but I have a new one on the way just to make sure, I have also opened it up at this point and checked everything was connected well and nothing is loose yet the problem persists.
> Anyone got any ideas ?


Any idea what the model is?


----------



## eshiku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *teinnow*
> 
> I'd buy 3 for eyefinity if the bezels are small


the bezels are not too bad, left, top and right are 1 inch, and the bottom is 1.25 inch


----------



## Gemsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Any idea what the model is?


It's a SE, as for what revision looks like a 2D if I'm reading the serial nubmer off the box right
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> The one I just unpacked was flashing green and I started to get nervous until I securely tightened the DVI cable. Methinks if you have another cable on the way, it's not unreasonable to suspect that the cable (or connection) might be the culprit.


That's what I'm hoping, as for the couple of hours it was on today it was working fine


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> It's a SE, as for what revision looks like a 2D if I'm reading the serial nubmer off the box right


Ah, alright. BigClothCraft had been sending quite a few 2Bs out, guess he actually is out of them


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> So I ordered one for BigClothCraft last week and it arrived yesterday and worked fine with some minor damage in that a couple of the screws holding the arc were snapped, but figured 'hey it works so meh'.
> Today screen was working fine for an hour or so, walked out of the room and when I came back the power LED was flashing red, I figured it had just gone to sleep like my secondary screen had, moved the mouse but of course it didn't wake up.
> 
> So the power LED is flashing red, and the LED on the power brick is flashing green, this happens regardless of if a DVI cable is connected, but I have a new one on the way just to make sure, I have also opened it up at this point and checked everything was connected well and nothing is loose yet the problem persists.
> Anyone got any ideas ?


Flashing green on the power brick? It should be solid green while it's connected to power outlet. If you have voltage meter, you might want to check the voltage coming out from it.

I am not sure why the monitor is flashing red could be there isn't enough juice to power the monitor.


----------



## theguz4l

Tried to overclock my 2D and was having a lot of issues. Tried it as low as 65HZ (67+ wouldn't boot) When it would come back from sleep mode / start up windows etc. it would lock my pc up COMPLETELY. I had to hard reset my PC.

I'm leaving it at 60hz for now. Seems to be great so far after 2 days.


----------



## ctrlhomer

I ordered from BigClothCraft on Monday shipped out Thursday and arrived Friday, crazy shipping. If that was crazy I got a prefect 2B panel! I have had the u2711, Samsung IPS, and even the 120hz BenQ, this is the most amazing monitor I have ever had.


----------



## cirthix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ctrlhomer*
> 
> I ordered from BigClothCraft on Monday shipped out Thursday and arrived Friday, crazy shipping. If that was crazy I got a prefect 2B panel! I have had the u2711, Samsung IPS, and even the 120hz BenQ, this is the most amazing monitor I have ever had.


did you buy pixel-perfect? PM me with your email address


----------



## digitalforce

Is it going to be tough to put an OC PCB, etc into a 2D series?


----------



## cirthix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Is it going to be tough to put an OC PCB, etc into a 2D series?


swapping is easy


----------



## Djankie

Hmm with the attempt of eyefinity with 3 screens, with my active dongle DL 107 euro!!! doesn't work.

The screen just flickers and never works. It is that my videocard only has 1 DVI-D output, otherwise I could have just used 2x DVI + 1x displayport. By the way, would eyefinity work, when you have multiple (AMD) Videocards in your PC ? Because I also have a HD6950 lying around, that card comes an extra DVI-D port.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> Hmm with the attempt of eyefinity with 3 screens, with my active dongle DL 107 euro!!! doesn't work.
> 
> The screen just flickers and never works. It is that my videocard only has 1 DVI-D output, otherwise I could have just used 2x DVI + 1x displayport. By the way, would eyefinity work, when you have multiple (AMD) Videocards in your PC ? Because I also have a HD6950 lying around, that card comes an extra DVI-D port.


In Eyefinity all displays must be connected to the same card.


----------



## Maximumoverload

I´m waiting for Overlockers "100Hz" Ultakill Edition. Don´t want to make lottely with those 2B models. I ask few of ebay sellers and they say that they don´t have 2B or cant controll series. :/


----------



## DrSmoke

Can the 2B PCBs be put into others like the Crossover? or only the yamakasi catleap? I'm ordering one of these today, and I have it narrowed down mostly to the Catleap or a Crossover, for the pivot.

Anything else I should know?


----------



## atmosfar

Don't think there are any OC PCBs spare for people wanting to test it on a Crossover! You'll have to hold on until they become more readily available.


----------



## digitalforce

SOOOOOOO annoying!

My Catleap is here in my city yet they aren't going to deliver it until Tuesday afternoon! So it's going to sit here for three days.. I asked customer service if I could come pick it up "Nope, sorry, it's in our Tuesday delivery container." After much discussion, it was stuck at that. Thanks Fedex.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Hey guys. Just did a video run-through of how to do the overclock on Nvidia cards.






I'll see if Scribby will put this up instead of the text/picture guide I have up now. What's scary and odd and weird is that I was able to set the refresh rate to 130hz without much trouble because it happens to be a little warmer here right now. This was captured in the video while I was trying to demonstrate how setting a higher refresh rate messed up the display! So I set it to 130hz...and it was fine. Lol.

I'll have an AMD guide using ToastyX's CRU up tomorrow. What I'm going to do next is do a video guide on how you can do screen capture at 1440p without stressing your computer, hard drive, etc...since Fraps uses 110MB/s to record video, with a 4gb limit. Which means...your standard 7200rpm hard drives if fragmented can't even keep up with the write speed required!

This guide will require no paid software or hardware! I shall keep you posted. Or just subscribe to my youtube channel to see it as soon as it's up.

p.s. I've also posted some a couple 1440p game capture clips I did, which is what I'll be making a guide for next. Take a look at them on my channel. Took me a while to get this method and system working, but it's works great! Just see the screen capture quality in the videos!


----------



## HyperMatrix

As a matter of fact I revisited the higher refresh rate...and voila:


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> Hmm with the attempt of eyefinity with 3 screens, with my active dongle DL 107 euro!!! doesn't work.
> 
> The screen just flickers and never works. It is that my videocard only has 1 DVI-D output, otherwise I could have just used 2x DVI + 1x displayport. By the way, would eyefinity work, when you have multiple (AMD) Videocards in your PC ? Because I also have a HD6950 lying around, that card comes an extra DVI-D port.


I occasionally have this problem with my dual monitor setup. When this happens, and it usually happens when I cold boot (as opposed to sleep, I typically move the dongle from one mini-dp connection to the other one.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> SOOOOOOO annoying!
> My Catleap is here in my city yet they aren't going to deliver it until Tuesday afternoon! So it's going to sit here for three days.. I asked customer service if I could come pick it up "Nope, sorry, it's in our Tuesday delivery container." After much discussion, it was stuck at that. Thanks Fedex.


Wow, mine too was due on Tuesday and they delivered it yesterday, also Fedex (ordered on the 11th). If you don't live too far from the Fedex depot, I'd drop by and see you could pick it up beforehand.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> As a matter of fact I revisited the higher refresh rate...and voila:


Wow very nice!!

Makes me want an Nvidia card


----------



## Eagle1337

CATLEAP 2300LED IPS Seller says it's an 8-bit S-IPS panel that does 16.7M colors, but that doesn't add up to me shouldn't it be 16.77m?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrSmoke*
> 
> Can the 2B PCBs be put into others like the Crossover? or only the yamakasi catleap? I'm ordering one of these today, and I have it narrowed down mostly to the Catleap or a Crossover, for the pivot.
> Anything else I should know?


If the panel is an LM270WQ1 like the Catleap (I believe it is) there's no reason it wouldn't work electrically. It'd be up to you to make it fit physically, though (if the PCBs have connectors coming out somewhere else, for example.


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> CATLEAP 2300LED IPS Seller says it's an 8-bit S-IPS panel that does 16.7M colors, but that doesn't add up to me shouldn't it be 16.77m?


-_-


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Hey guys. Just did a video run-through of how to do the overclock on Nvidia cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll see if Scribby will put this up instead of the text/picture guide I have up now. What's scary and odd and weird is that I was able to set the refresh rate to 130hz without much trouble because it happens to be a little warmer here right now. This was captured in the video while I was trying to demonstrate how setting a higher refresh rate messed up the display! So I set it to 130hz...and it was fine. Lol.
> I'll have an AMD guide using ToastyX's CRU up tomorrow. What I'm going to do next is do a video guide on how you can do screen capture at 1440p without stressing your computer, hard drive, etc...since Fraps uses 110MB/s to record video, with a 4gb limit. Which means...your standard 7200rpm hard drives if fragmented can't even keep up with the write speed required!
> This guide will require no paid software or hardware! I shall keep you posted. Or just subscribe to my youtube channel to see it as soon as it's up.
> p.s. I've also posted some a couple 1440p game capture clips I did, which is what I'll be making a guide for next. Take a look at them on my channel. Took me a while to get this method and system working, but it's works great! Just see the screen capture quality in the videos!


welcome back









Did you find out how to unlock the ramdac on nvidia cards in SLI? Technically it should be possible I would think


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> CATLEAP 2300LED IPS Seller says it's an 8-bit S-IPS panel that does 16.7M colors, but that doesn't add up to me shouldn't it be 16.77m?
> 
> 
> 
> -_-
Click to expand...

I want my promised extra 70,000 colors! :3


----------



## DrSmoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> If the panel is an LM270WQ1 like the Catleap (I believe it is) there's no reason it wouldn't work electrically. It'd be up to you to make it fit physically, though (if the PCBs have connectors coming out somewhere else, for example.


Thanks.

Looks like we are going to find out then. (depending on what exactly is on sale when I order today)

I really like the stand to the Crossover, and If I can get my hands on one of those PCBs, I'll see If I can get it to work.

If you can get one of these IPS's running at 120hz, does that mean you can run 3D on it? If you get the other hardware, of course.

Edit: "I want my... extra 70K colors" That made me laugh, I remember playing games that had no colors, and 16 colors. Now here we are, complaining that 16 million isn't enough. I love progress.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrSmoke*
> 
> Thanks.
> Looks like we are going to find out then. (depending on what exactly is on sale when I order today)
> I really like the stand to the Crossover, and If I can get my hands on one of those PCBs, I'll see If I can get it to work.
> If you can get one of these IPS's running at 120hz, does that mean you can run 3D on it? If you get the other hardware, of course.
> Edit: "I want my... extra 70K colors" That made me laugh, I remember playing games that had no colors, and 16 colors. Now here we are, complaining that 16 million isn't enough. I love progress.


Just imagine http://www.legitreviews.com/news/12844/

That monitor supports 278 trillion colors...


----------



## DrSmoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Just imagine http://www.legitreviews.com/news/12844/
> That monitor supports 278 trillion colors...


Is that all of them yet? lol.

I heard of that monitor, but I didn't notice the color claim. Just, damn. That is cool .


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> yeah, I bought a converter from monoprice and hooked it to a mac. if you search for my posts back in the thread you will find the exact item I bought.
> it works fine but there are some problems with sleep mode. after it goes in sleep mode sometimes it doesn't wake up properly and it shows garbage...
> a simple restart of the adapter fixes it.


so a little update. the monoprice converter died after one week and they sent me a replacement.
I was worried that it was the monitor but it turned out to be fine. hopefully this one will live a little longer









p.s. the monitor kicks ass. it has some backlight bleeding/internal reflections(I got the tempered glass version) issues but only really obsessed guys like me can notice these things. if you are just playing games/browsing/reading on it you will never notice.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrSmoke*
> 
> Thanks.
> Looks like we are going to find out then. (depending on what exactly is on sale when I order today)
> I really like the stand to the Crossover, and If I can get my hands on one of those PCBs, I'll see If I can get it to work.
> If you can get one of these IPS's running at 120hz, does that mean you can run 3D on it? If you get the other hardware, of course.
> Edit: "I want my... extra 70K colors" That made me laugh, I remember playing games that had no colors, and 16 colors. Now here we are, complaining that 16 million isn't enough. I love progress.


I purchased an Nvidia 3d Vision 2 kit. 3d, sadly, will not work with this monitor. At least not with a gtx 680. I know for some other "actual/intended-to-be" 120hz monitors, you could use an older 285 or 286 version forceware and set it up as a CRT and kinda force the 3d to work. But since the gtx 680 can't run on old drivers...I couldn't even test that out.







So I returned the kit. That would have been the ultimate jesus-monitor effect.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I purchased an Nvidia 3d Vision 2 kit. 3d, sadly, will not work with this monitor. At least not with a gtx 680. I know for some other "actual/intended-to-be" 120hz monitors, you could use an older 285 or 286 version forceware and set it up as a CRT and kinda force the 3d to work. But since the gtx 680 can't run on old drivers...I couldn't even test that out.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I returned the kit. That would have been the ultimate *jesus-monitor* effect.


I don't have one yet though


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> I don't have one yet though


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> welcome back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you find out how to unlock the ramdac on nvidia cards in SLI? Technically it should be possible I would think


Sadly, no. I was hoping the new Nvidia drivers from a few days ago would have resolved the issue...but no go. I can get a single card's pixel clock up to about 537-538mhz. Any higher and the monitor goes red. Though that may have more to do with the horizontal refresh rate hitting 200 KHz at that range. But yeah...most I've done is a 133hz vertical refresh rate with only minor screen issues, and only on some screens.

People may say 100hz to 120hz (or a stable 125hz in my case) is nothing...but a 25% increase in what I see? Yeah...my eyes like it.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *countach*
> 
> so a little update. the monoprice converter died after one week and they sent me a replacement.
> I was worried that it was the monitor but it turned out to be fine. hopefully this one will live a little longer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. the monitor kicks ass. it has some backlight bleeding/internal reflections(I got the tempered glass version) issues but only really obsessed guys like me can notice these things. if you are just playing games/browsing/reading on it you will never notice.


You can't expect flawless panels to be A- graded and sold for $350 or so; there's going to be some minor imperfections with the panels whatever they are (foreign material in the polarizer, dead/blind pixels, backlight bleed, something...). Anybody buying these *should* be aware of this and able to deal with the minor imperfections.


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> You can't expect flawless panels to be A- graded and sold for $350 or so; there's going to be some minor imperfections with the panels whatever they are (foreign material in the polarizer, dead/blind pixels, backlight bleed, something...). Anybody buying these *should* be aware of this and able to deal with the minor imperfections.


As i'm on the wall between getting a dell or a catleap how "Bad" are the imperfections?


----------



## eternal7trance

They aren't all bad. The one I'm looking at looks exactly like the apple cinema display. No backlight crap or dead pixels.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Sadly, no. I was hoping the new Nvidia drivers from a few days ago would have resolved the issue...but no go. I can get a single card's pixel clock up to about 537-538mhz. Any higher and the monitor goes red. Though that may have more to do with the horizontal refresh rate hitting 200 KHz at that range. But yeah...most I've done is a 133hz vertical refresh rate with only minor screen issues, and only on some screens.
> People may say 100hz to 120hz (or a stable 125hz in my case) is nothing...but a 25% increase in what I see? Yeah...my eyes like it.


Also, movies/videos playback frame synchronization


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> They aren't all bad. The one I'm looking at looks exactly like the apple cinema display. No backlight crap or dead pixels.


There may be some *perfect* units for yield reasons; similar to cut down unlockable CPU and graphics cards, if demand for A- panels exceeds the number of defective panels the manufacturer may opt to take a slight relative loss and sell A+ binned panels as A- units to still make a sale. Whether this happens in practice or not with LCD panels or not I have no idea; alternatively the defect is so small as to not be noticeable to you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> As i'm on the wall between getting a dell or a catleap how "Bad" are the imperfections?


On average, the imperfections have been *very* minor. The prototypical panel in these things appears to be a unit that is free of dead/blind pixels and free of visible foreign objects, but has a bit of backlight bleed somewhere near the bottom of the screen.

Alternatively, some units have come through with a dead subpixel or two, or a tiny pixel-sized hair/fibre somewhere in the polarizer. Overall (especially at the given pixel sizes) the defects are *very* minor in general. If you get an average or better panel and you're complaining about the tiny amount of bleed or your one/two dead subpixels then this really isn't the monitor (or the price) for you.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> There may be some *perfect* units for yield reasons; similar to cut down unlockable CPU and graphics cards, if demand for A- panels exceeds the number of defective panels the manufacturer may opt to take a slight relative loss and sell A+ binned panels as A- units to still make a sale. Whether this happens in practice or not with LCD panels or not I have no idea; alternatively the defect is so small as to not be noticeable to you.
> On average, the imperfections have been *very* minor. The prototypical panel in these things appears to be a unit that is free of dead/blind pixels and free of visible foreign objects, but has a bit of backlight bleed somewhere near the bottom of the screen.
> Alternatively, some units have come through with a dead subpixel or two, or a tiny pixel-sized hair/fibre somewhere in the polarizer. Overall (especially at the given pixel sizes) the defects are *very* minor in general. If you get an average or better panel and you're complaining about the tiny amount of bleed or your one/two dead subpixels then this really isn't the monitor (or the price) for you.


To be fair the $400 monitors I've purchased from "reputable brands" like Dell and HP have also had backlight bleed.


----------



## digitalforce

That is why I rolled the dice with the Catleap because even a questionable used Apple Cinema Display was going to be $650 and it was over a year old..

Cannot wait for my kitty to arrive!


----------



## SkyPC

My Cat's Breath smells like Cat Food.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Have a question. I have my 2 2B catleaps at 100hz stable. I run them off my asus dcii 580's sli OC at 935/ 1870. So i noticed when had only one off the monitors OC at 100hz and the other at 60hz, the card with the OC one would run at full 935 while the other card with the non oc monitor would throttlr down like normal unless i was doing something on that screen. Now that both monitors are at 100hz, both cards stay at the full OC the whole time. It doesnt bother me and temps have just gone up 2c when just doing light stuff and idleing, but i was wondering if that sounds normal?

Also if anyones interested in a 2C no-glass , ive got one just sitting here looking for a new home.


----------



## necriss

hypermatrix, are you using a custom dual link dvi cable? I have the same card and cannot hit 120hz above without getting minor artifacts. 133hz results in a blank screen. So maybe the korean cable is poor quality.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> hypermatrix, are you using a custom dual link dvi cable? I have the same card and cannot hit 120hz above without getting minor artifacts. 133hz results in a blank screen. So maybe the korean cable is poor quality.


I thought that may have been it but I hit 125hz even after I swapped cables to the one supplied with the monitor. But better cable never hurts. Have you tried playing around with the manual timing settings? That usually fixes those extra lines and flash issues.


----------



## digitalforce

I don't wanna hear about ONLY being able to hit 125hz you monkeys!!!


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Hey guys!


YAY HyperMatrix is back!!!

Just realized as you were saying that 1440p Screen capturing would be faster than mech.HDDs. Finally, a real use for SSDs


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> YAY HyperMatrix is back!!!
> Just realized as you were saying that 1440p Screen capturing would be faster than mech.HDDs. Finally, a real use for SSDs


I found a much better method that would allow you to record really good quality 1440p on even a 5400rpm drive! =D I'll be making a guide on that hopefully tomorrow.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Lately, whenever i exit battlefield 3 my catleap turns completely black and stays that way until i turn it out off and then turn it back on, then the image comes back on instantly, anyone else has a problem similar to this?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Lately, whenever i exit battlefield 3 my catleap turns completely black and stays that way until i turn it out off and then turn it back on, then the image comes back on instantly, anyone else has a problem similar to this?
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Do you have a different resolution or refresh rate between your desktop and your game? Double check that. Also check if you're running 16 bit colour or 32 bit colour both in-game and on your desktop.


----------



## djxput

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I found a much better method that would allow you to record really good quality 1440p on even a 5400rpm drive! =D I'll be making a guide on that hopefully tomorrow.


appreciate that - new to recording but know Ill want to do that in the near future here once my catleap arrives


----------



## countach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> You can't expect flawless panels to be A- graded and sold for $350 or so; there's going to be some minor imperfections with the panels whatever they are (foreign material in the polarizer, dead/blind pixels, backlight bleed, something...). Anybody buying these *should* be aware of this and able to deal with the minor imperfections.


yeah, that's exactly what I wanted to say









p.s. oh and btw backlight issues are most noticeable on black background that's why most ppl won't even know it's there. I guess I got lucky in the dead pixel department. there is indeed foreign material but between the glass and the panel but you have to be really looking for it. overall I am really happy with my purchase.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> Have a question. I have my 2 2B catleaps at 100hz stable. I run them off my asus dcii 580's sli OC at 935/ 1870. So i noticed when had only one off the monitors OC at 100hz and the other at 60hz, the card with the OC one would run at full 935 while the other card with the non oc monitor would throttlr down like normal unless i was doing something on that screen. Now that both monitors are at 100hz, both cards stay at the full OC the whole time. It doesnt bother me and temps have just gone up 2c when just doing light stuff and idleing, but i was wondering if that sounds normal?
> 
> Also if anyones interested in a 2C no-glass , ive got one just sitting here looking for a new home.


Sounds normal. You're making that card really work even just showing the desktop.

I would buy it if someone bought my 3x 24"s in the marketplace -_-

Sent from my LG-P999 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Gemsi

So I've been playing around while waiting for another DVI-D Cable to turn up to see if that fixes my non output issue.

The screen is still being detected via windows at the correct resolution and everything, and I've noticed the the power led only starts to flash green when plugged into the monitor itself, it's solid until I connect it, don't suppose that would give anyone ideas to just where the problem lies ?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> So I've been playing around while waiting for another DVI-D Cable to turn up to see if that fixes my non output issue.
> The screen is still being detected via windows at the correct resolution and everything, and I've noticed the the power led only starts to flash green when plugged into the monitor itself, it's solid until I connect it, don't suppose that would give anyone ideas to just where the problem lies ?


Connector not outputting proper resolution/refresh or settings are not valid for the monitor. Is it plugged in to your Dual-Link DVI port? What card do you have? And does the monitor show anything when you first turn your PC on? (bios info/etc..)? If it shows anything "before" windows loads, it's a driver issue. Uninstall monitor driver, and perform a clean install using driver sweeper of your video card drivers and then plug your monitor back in. If it doesn't show anything even during computer startup, you either have a card not compatible with the monitor, you don't have it plugged into the right output, or the monitor is just busted. And it really doesn't sound like your monitor is busted.


----------



## Gemsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Connector not outputting proper resolution/refresh or settings are not valid for the monitor. Is it plugged in to your Dual-Link DVI port? What card do you have? And does the monitor show anything when you first turn your PC on? (bios info/etc..)? If it shows anything "before" windows loads, it's a driver issue. Uninstall monitor driver, and perform a clean install using driver sweeper of your video card drivers and then plug your monitor back in. If it doesn't show anything even during computer startup, you either have a card not compatible with the monitor, you don't have it plugged into the right output, or the monitor is just busted. And it really doesn't sound like your monitor is busted.


Nothing shows before windows, i'm using a 9800gtx+ for the time being, which while old was powering the monitor fine for the first day I had it and for the second, started acting like this when I was out of the room for a while and my other screen dropped into standby mode so I'm assuming the catleap did as well, it's like it's never woken up from it


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> Nothing shows before windows, i'm using a 9800gtx+ for the time being, which while old was powering the monitor fine for the first day I had it and for the second, started acting like this when I was out of the room for a while and my other screen dropped into standby mode so I'm assuming the catleap did as well, it's like it's never woken up from it


First thing I'd do, if it's an option, is to unplug the monitor for a few minutes, then plug it into another computer and see if anything happens. Might be your video card is pooched for this resolution. Hopefully that, and not a monitor problem!


----------



## Gemsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> First thing I'd do, if it's an option, is to unplug the monitor for a few minutes, then plug it into another computer and see if anything happens. Might be your video card is pooched for this resolution. Hopefully that, and not a monitor problem!


I've tried plugging it in to the only other PC we have around, which is a mac mini to no result, but no idea if that was due to the screen or the hdmi-dvi adaptor, I've also tried lowering the resolution down to something I know my card can output to no result as well


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> I've tried plugging it in to the only other PC we have around, which is a mac mini to no result, but no idea if that was due to the screen or the hdmi-dvi adaptor, I've also tried lowering the resolution down to something I know my card can output to no result as well


Hmm...actually...I'm not sure. I'm not too familiar with mac systems and how they operate. Depending on the hdmi revision (1.3 and higher) you can output 2560x1440. How that'll work with a basic hdmi to dual-link dvi adapter? I don't know. I'm hoping the issue is that, and not with the monitor itself. Just as a precaution, have to looked to see if any cables may have come loose in the monitor?


----------



## Gemsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Hmm...actually...I'm not sure. I'm not too familiar with mac systems and how they operate. Depending on the hdmi revision (1.3 and higher) you can output 2560x1440. How that'll work with a basic hdmi to dual-link dvi adapter? I don't know. I'm hoping the issue is that, and not with the monitor itself. Just as a precaution, have to looked to see if any cables may have come loose in the monitor?


Yeah I've already opened it up and checked everything was tight, or at the very least nothing was loose sadly, I have another dvi-d cable coming as it seems odd it all worked fine for a little while but yet it's not really looking hopefully


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Lately, whenever i exit battlefield 3 my catleap turns completely black and stays that way until i turn it out off and then turn it back on, then the image comes back on instantly, anyone else has a problem similar to this?
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have a different resolution or refresh rate between your desktop and your game? Double check that. Also check if you're running 16 bit colour or 32 bit colour both in-game and on your desktop.
Click to expand...

same resolution and refresh rate, windows is running 32 bit color, can't select any specific color depth in the game though

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> same resolution and refresh rate, windows is running 32 bit color, can't select any specific color depth in the game though
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


Is your monitor running stock at 60hz? Is your video card OC'd? Have you tried uninstalling/reinstalling monitor drivers and doing a clean install of video drivers? Because that seems odd. Unless the video card is trying to change display settings and failing to do so, it shouldn't be dumping the monitor alltogether. Other than things like powerstrip, rivatuner, ultramon, and other tools that could be causing these sorts of problems I can't imagine what would cause that.


----------



## y2kcamaross

It's [email protected], and only happens with bf3 so i sincerely doubt it's the video card, especially since i can immediately start it up and quit the game and it does it, but, it's random, it only does it about 50% of the time, it started happening immediately after hooking up new logitech x 540's 5.1 speakers

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> It's [email protected], and only happens with bf3 so i sincerely doubt it's the video card, especially since i can immediately start it up and quit the game and it does it, but, it's random, it only does it about 50% of the time, it started happening immediately after hooking up new logitech x 540's 5.1 speakers
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk


I can't see how the speakers could cause it. If you had a set up like mine where you were feeding the audio to a receiver though hdmi, I could see a potential issue. But I'm assuming you're using onboard optical out.

I'd try a fresh video driver install. Make sure all current resolution profiles are erased/removed so it only shows you an option for 60hz. Uninstall monitor driver, reboot, install monitor driver from my YouTube oc guide link (check my sig). And try again. Check for the error while still at 60hz (with no other profiles added yet). This should help narrow it down. Also, what video card do you have? And it may be narrowed down to bf3 if it's an issue related to dx11 as its one of few games that are dx11 atm. Possibly.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> It's [email protected], and only happens with bf3 so i sincerely doubt it's the video card, especially since i can immediately start it up and quit the game and it does it, but, it's random, it only does it about 50% of the time, it started happening immediately after hooking up new logitech x 540's 5.1 speakers
> 
> Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see how the speakers could cause it. If you had a set up like mine where you were feeding the audio to a receiver though hdmi, I could see a potential issue. But I'm assuming you're using onboard optical out.
> 
> I'd try a fresh video driver install. Make sure all current resolution profiles are erased/removed so it only shows you an option for 60hz. Uninstall monitor driver, reboot, install monitor driver from my YouTube oc guide link (check my sig). And try again. Check for the error while still at 60hz (with no other profiles added yet). This should help narrow it down. Also, what video card do you have? And it may be narrowed down to bf3 if it's an issue related to dx11 as its one of few games that are dx11 atm. Possibly.
Click to expand...

Gtx 680 sli


----------



## sonicBlue

For anyone looking to try out some pretty graphics @2560x1440 there is the free world of warcraft trial.

Even though it's an old game I find the level of detail is just stunning.





I don't have a very powerful computer (Athlon 64 x2 4200+ , asus 6770, 2GB ram) but managed to get it running smoothly with the following settings:

Shadow quality to "Fair"
Multisampling to 1x (don't need it at 2560x1440!)
Anisotropic 2x
Ground clutter high
Everything else at "good"
Direct X11
64-bit client


----------



## atmosfar

I get 125 FPS solid in Quake Live at native res. on my X4 955 and 6850, both on stock frequencies.

r_picmip 10 and simple icons etc.

Very very nice to play on.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Gtx 680 sli


Try something for me. Disable SLI in Nvidia control panel. Then launch BF3 and exit it. Do you still lose your monitor? And download the latest Beta drivers from nvidia's site if you haven't. When installing, choose the do a clean install option.


----------



## eternal7trance

So today my monitor just starting flashing random pixels all over the place. I tried restarting and pulling the power/dvi cord out. Anything else I could do or is this monitor dead?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> So today my monitor just starting flashing random pixels all over the place. I tried restarting and pulling the power/dvi cord out. Anything else I could do or is this monitor dead?


Was it like sparkles? If so, I found that restarting usually fixes it, as well as massaging the cable. Sounds dirty, I know.







I thought I had a bum cable, but I had that issue in the beginning, but it's gone away completely. So far.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Was it like sparkles? If so, I found that restarting usually fixes it, as well as massaging the cable. Sounds dirty, I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I had a bum cable, but I had that issue in the beginning, but it's gone away completely. So far.


Nah it's flashing lines all over the place and the picture is really distorted.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Was it like sparkles? If so, I found that restarting usually fixes it, as well as massaging the cable. Sounds dirty, I know.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I thought I had a bum cable, but I had that issue in the beginning, but it's gone away completely. So far.


Yeah I had some sparkling and little bits of weird flashing on day one so day 2 I bought a different cable. Just the quality and lack of shielding on the supplied one is instantly visible between a proper cable and the one they give you. And you're just running it at stock refresh rate, right?
Make sure cable is screwed in the port good and proper. If issue still persists, might be a bad cable.


----------



## Aquineas

I'm so annoyed with myself I could kick myself. I screwed up my monitor while taking it apart to remove the crappy stand. You know the ribbon cable that's taped on in the back? Well the other end of that cable goes to the PCB board behind the aluminum plate. I accidentally broke the connector on the ribbon cable (I didn't break the PCB). I guess I was too confident and got careless because I'd already done this with two previous monitors. Does anyone know where I can get another ribbon cable?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Yeah I had some sparkling and little bits of weird flashing on day one so day 2 I bought a different cable. Just the quality and lack of shielding on the supplied one is instantly visible between a proper cable and the one they give you. And you're just running it at stock refresh rate, right?
> Make sure cable is screwed in the port good and proper. If issue still persists, might be a bad cable.


I will try buying a new cord soon and see if that works.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I'm so annoyed with myself I could kick myself. I screwed up my monitor while taking it apart to remove the crappy stand. You know the ribbon cable that's taped on in the back? Well the other end of that cable goes to the PCB board behind the aluminum plate. I accidentally broke the connector on the ribbon cable (I didn't break the PCB). I guess I was too confident and got careless because I'd already done this with two previous monitors. Does anyone know where I can get another ribbon cable?


Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you. What is plugged into the small connector? Is that a 2C? Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.


----------



## iamSneaky

Just recieved my monitor this morning, purchased from green-sum on 10th arrived the morning of 16th and that's
with a weekend and the Election day Holiday they had so pretty impressed with that.
NO dead pixels and NO back light bleed. TBH I haven't checked if mine is a 2B/2C yet,
I am still in awe at this thing of beauty


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you. What is plugged into the small connector? Is that a 2C? Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.


Looks like the same as mine... You can see where it plugs into the PCB on my photos http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2690#post_16966916


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you. What is plugged into the small connector? Is that a 2C? Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like the same as mine... You can see where it plugs into the PCB on my photos http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2690#post_16966916
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reference - I remember that post now!


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you. What is plugged into the small connector? Is that a 2C? Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.


Darn, you were my one hope. You had mentioned before that you had a manufacturing contact. Any chance you could pass that on, or contact them on my behalf about the cable? Honestly this thing is too small for me to do anything with. Here is another pict of the board and connectors:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Also, does your PCB board you're planning on selling come with cables? By the sound of your last post, it doesn't, but I thought I'd ask anyway.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Of all my issues with sourcing the chips for the PCBs I have yet to come across cables. You may have to become an electrician or contact your seller and see if he can source the part for you. What is plugged into the small connector? Is that a 2C? Haven't seen a model with that plug in before.
> 
> 
> 
> Darn, you were my one hope. You had mentioned before that you had a manufacturing contact. Any chance you could pass that on, or contact them on my behalf about the cable? Honestly this thing is too small for me to do anything with. Here is another pict of the board and connectors:
> Also, does your PCB board you're planning on selling come with cables? By the sound of your last post, it doesn't, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
Click to expand...

I will work on the cables once I can get the PCBs started. Right now, I have no sources for cables (especially for anything other than the 2Bs - my main focus for the last month.) Email your seller and see what they can do for you - they may have a contact (at least they speak the language!)

The PCBs will be a complete setup or at the very least a pinout (one has been done here somewhere) and a parts list that will require people to make the cables themselves. Honestly, making the cables would be easy if I (or someone else if they beat me to it) can source the correct connectors, just would take a person a little time to do them.

Sending the PCBs out tomorrow to begin the process - keep your fingers crossed they can source the LG chip or an equivalent.


----------



## mystigiandoll

Is anyone running their Catleaps without the bezel? I was planning to run in surround without a bezel and I thought they would work out alright, but in the recent pictures I notice there is a PCB mounted inside the back bezel? Anyhow if anyone that has a Catleap and has taken them apart multiple times can shed some light on how they would play out without the bezel would be appreciated. Thanks!!


----------



## Adhunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> Hey, just wondering if my (previously problem free) monitor might have an issue?
> 
> I have my computer set to put my monitors on standby after half an hour, but during the day I turn the monitors off manually and leave the computer running.
> 
> When I got home today I turned on the monitor first (before moving the mouse to get it out of monitor standby). The screen then showed something like when you had no reception on an old analogue tv - but my secondary monitor showed the desktop as it should. I turned the monitor off and on again and it worked perfectly.
> 
> Any ideas??


No thoughts? It's happened again - seems to happen if you turn the monitor on before moving the mouse to get windows to tell the monitors to come off standby (perhaps because the monitor doesn't have a standby screen)?


----------



## digitalforce

Anyone had any luck just showing up to a Fedex facility to pick up a package? I called the generic 1-800 number and they said "SORRY, you can't" but a local Fedex store employee said "Just show up to the sorting facility.."

I am not desperate to try out my Catleap, I promise


----------



## alamone

I purchased a tempered glass model from ITPlus.kr via minarinshop as mentioned in an earlier post, it cost about $430 all said and done:
http://www.itplus.kr/shopuser/goods/productView.html?largeno=&middleno=&smallno=&code=ae0f27b1e3

It was indeed a model 2B, although the LCD had a few defects (doesn't look like dead pixels, looks more like dust or clouding or something).
On the other hand I already have a model 2C with a perfect pixel panel so I went ahead and swapped the board electronics, and it works perfectly.
I would suggest anyone doing disassembly to be very careful with the ribbon cables coming out of the panel, I accidentally broke off one of the
connectors and two of the wires on the ribbon came clean off, luckily a little work with the soldering station and it works fine again.

Mine isnt able to reach 120hz, but 96hz is fine. I have another 2B that I'll be testing later. I'm using a GTX 680 and the manual timings in the top post.


----------



## alamone

Regarding without the bezel, you can do it but it doesn't really help to shave off much of the gap between monitors,
the panel is screwed into the plastic back bezel using L-shaped steel bars which are then screwed into the LCD panel,
the plastic bezel barely goes around these so you would be saving just a few mm.


----------



## Goodfella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> No thoughts? It's happened again - seems to happen if you turn the monitor on before moving the mouse to get windows to tell the monitors to come off standby (perhaps because the monitor doesn't have a standby screen)?


I had the exact same thing you described happen to my monitor a couple of days ago. I had it running and since I had to step away for a moment I turned if off without putting my system in sleep/standby.10 minutes later I turn the monitor back on and all I see on the screen is the old "analog garbled screen" All I did was power it off then on again and the picture came back just fine.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alamone*
> 
> I purchased a tempered glass model from ITPlus.kr via minarinshop as mentioned in an earlier post, it cost about $430 all said and done:
> http://www.itplus.kr/shopuser/goods/productView.html?largeno=&middleno=&smallno=&code=ae0f27b1e3
> It was indeed a model 2B, although the LCD had a few defects (doesn't look like dead pixels, looks more like dust or clouding or something).
> On the other hand I already have a model 2C with a perfect pixel panel so I went ahead and swapped the board electronics, and it works perfectly.
> I would suggest anyone doing disassembly to be very careful with the ribbon cables coming out of the panel, I accidentally broke off one of the
> connectors and two of the wires on the ribbon came clean off, luckily a little work with the soldering station and it works fine again.
> Mine isnt able to reach 120hz, but 96hz is fine. I have another 2B that I'll be testing later. I'm using a GTX 680 and the manual timings in the top post.


Did they advertise it as a 2b model or did you just luck out? As for the 96hz limit, what's happening when you go higher? Have you tried leaving the timings to Automatic to see what happens? Because others with the GTX 680 other than myself have gotten up to 117hz.


----------



## alamone

I just lucked out for the 2B, also I think the tempered glass models are selling less than the cheaper SE models.
I just tried using automatic timings, it was able to go up to 119hz but once I got 120hz, the screen goes crazy with artifacts and flickering.
Just one more hertz...


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alamone*
> 
> I just lucked out for the 2B, also I think the tempered glass models are selling less than the cheaper SE models.
> I just tried using automatic timings, it was able to go up to 119hz but once I got 120hz, the screen goes crazy with artifacts and flickering.
> Just one more hertz...


Well even at 119hz it's really running at around 114hz-118hz on average in 32-bit mode. That's why I run mine at 123hz-124hz so I get 119hz-121hz. Manual timings should let you adjust and remove the artifacts and flickering but they differ from monitor to monitor so what works for me, won't necessarily work for you. You can play around with it. You'll get it. And grats.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Also...very important...make sure to set your monitor back down to 100hz or less before turning it off for an extended period of time (ie. more than 30 minutes) otherwise it won't display properly for a good 15 minutes the next time you turn it on.









- Before turning monitor off, set to 100hz
- When turning monitor back on, wait a good 15-30 minutes, then switch back to 120hz.

I know..I know...seems like a hassle. And it is. But what can you do.









Also...obviously...for the rest of you, only try overclocking past 100hz after at least 30 minutes of warmup time for your monitor!


----------



## necriss

Mine doesn't reach over 120hz without artifacts (yes I've tried manual timings) but doesn't have the warmup problems you mentioned Hyper. Cold boots fine into 120hz. Maybe you're pushing your panel too much.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Mine doesn't reach over 120hz without artifacts (yes I've tried manual timings) but doesn't have the warmup problems you mentioned Hyper. Cold boots fine into 120hz. Maybe you're pushing your panel too much.


Yes the 133hz a couple days ago might be a tad high. But hey...someone's gotta do it or else we'll never know.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Mine doesn't reach over 120hz without artifacts (yes I've tried manual timings) but doesn't have the warmup problems you mentioned Hyper. Cold boots fine into 120hz. Maybe you're pushing your panel too much.


Do you turn your monitor off, or just let it go into sleep mode btw? And what's your house/computer room temperature like? Overnight mine is down to 16 degrees celsius. So about 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Maybe actual "coldness" is what causes it? Because the 133hz I hit was at a time where the room was around 26 degrees celsius, or 79 degrees fahrenheit.


----------



## Lgros max

Hello, I have a question for the experts about this monitor. I got my hand on a 2c multi that was overclockable to 100hz without any problem but, when I play a game with vsync the camera is not fluid at all. Only 60hz seems to run butter smooth. In Skyrim without vsync I get 132 fps average which tell me that I should be able to play at 100hz with vsync. So my question is why 60hz is smoother than 100hz for me? Thanks


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lgros max*
> 
> Hello, I have a question for the experts about this monitor. I got my hand on a 2c multi that was overclockable to 100hz without any problem but, when I play a game with vsync the camera is not fluid at all. Only 60hz seems to run butter smooth. In Skyrim without vsync I get 132 fps average which tell me that I should be able to play at 100hz with vsync. So my question is why 60hz is smoother than 100hz for me? Thanks


Are you actually getting 100fps when vsync is on and at 100hz? Or is there some driver or config problem and its still only giving 60fps? 60fps @ 100hz would look a bit choppy.


----------



## Lgros max

RivaTuner show 98 to 101 fps in game with vsync , still look choppy compare to 60hz 60fps. Weird even 61hz look choppy but, less than 100hz.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lgros max*
> 
> Hello, I have a question for the experts about this monitor. I got my hand on a 2c multi that was overclockable to 100hz without any problem but, when I play a game with vsync the camera is not fluid at all. Only 60hz seems to run butter smooth. In Skyrim without vsync I get 132 fps average which tell me that I should be able to play at 100hz with vsync. So my question is why 60hz is smoother than 100hz for me? Thanks


Vsync does slow down "response time" a tiny little bit, which is why I leave it off. Did you do the OC through the method shown in my video? ( 



 ) You should at least use the monitor driver provided there. Have you also tested your refresh rate using Power Strip to make sure your refresh rate is actually sitting at 100hz? (Powerstrip is included in the same file that has the monitor driver in the video linked above).

Also, what video card do you have? I think we should make it mandatory for people to post their video cards so if there are issues with certain types of cards, we can see a pattern!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lgros max*
> 
> RivaTuner show 98 to 101 fps in game with vsync , still look choppy compare to 60hz 60fps. Weird even 61hz look choppy but, less than 100hz.


I'd uninstall anything like RivaTuner man. That sounds like quite a mess. Remove any monitor altering apps and profiles you have, and go through the video I linked above if you have an Nvidia card. If you have an AMD card, do the exact same thing but use ToastyX's CRU.Exe (included in the package) instead of the Nvidia Control Panel to create your custom resolutions. Otherwise we have no idea if you have anything that's causing conflicts on your system. Because what you're describing is an odd scenario that shouldn't normally happen unless something is wrong.


----------



## alamone

Multi input monitor will not work >60hz
It will just drop frames which is why it looks jerky

You need a 2B, 2A, etc model with dual-DVI input only for >60hz


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alamone*
> 
> Multi input monitor will not work >60hz
> It will just drop frames which is why it looks jerky
> You need a 2B, 2A, etc model with dual-DVI input only for >60hz


Ah, does the Multi version not also have a dual link dvi port? I had heard reports of some multi-users oc'ing before but had never looked into it to know for myself.


----------



## alamone

It has it, but because it is multi model it uses a more complicated PCB that feeds all the inputs to a scaler,
that prevents the use of higher refresh rates on the simpler single-input PCB that feeds the signal more directly
to the panel without much processing


----------



## Lgros max

I overclock my monitor using the same methodology showed in the first post. Rivatuner with afterburner is just to see my gpu usage in game. My cards are asus 480 in tri sli. I know that 2c model are not suppose to be overclockable but when I opened it was the same oc pcb showed in the first post just with more stuff because it's a multi.


----------



## necriss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Do you turn your monitor off, or just let it go into sleep mode btw? And what's your house/computer room temperature like? Overnight mine is down to 16 degrees celsius. So about 61 degrees Fahrenheit. Maybe actual "coldness" is what causes it? Because the 133hz I hit was at a time where the room was around 26 degrees celsius, or 79 degrees fahrenheit.


Turn it off and led stays red.


----------



## Lgros max

Why does the nvidia control panel say that my custom resolution (100hz) is accepted by my monitor?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lgros max*
> 
> Why does the nvidia control panel say that my custom resolution (100hz) is accepted by my monitor?


I think it is as alamone said. The pcb in the monitor will accept the input of 100hz, and tells the video driver that, but when it is sending the signal over to the panel from the pcb itself, it goes through the scaler and is unable to cope with displaying that refresh rate.


----------



## Lgros max

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I think it is as alamone said. The pcb in the monitor will accept the input of 100hz, and tells the video driver that, but when it is sending the signal over to the panel from the pcb itself, it goes through the scaler and is unable to cope with displaying that refresh rate.


Ok, thanks for answering my question that seem to be logical. I thought I was able to run 100hz but still at 60hz this monitor is kick ass for the money I paid.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Took me forever but I finally have a guide up on how you can record games and do general screen capture in high quality at our monitor's 1440p resolution. Check it out. 




3-part video. File links included in video description. Took me a lot longer than I thought it would to do it all and publish them/etc...So you better enjoy it!









p.s. And yes. The guide was most definitely recorded and uploaded in 1440p as well. Haha. I'm a High-Res freak!


----------



## Whitespider999

Hey hypermatrix, one thing I have noticed in the few years of having a 2560x1440 screen is that lack of understanding from the general gaming community (not the rate elites) - in regards to what more pixels actually translates to.

This is in Australia, perhaps it's true in other countries as well.

To elaborate, a large number of gamers with below 1920x1080 monitors don't really see the big deal in getting a higher resolution, and it's rarely money holding them back. I understand this sentiment, as I had a 1920x1200 monitor for the culmination of years prior this upgrade.

Console devote's are just a more extreme version of this. And they own many-thousand-dollar Tv's running on hardware that's about as productive as a 200 dollar pc conjured up with spare parts from some deranged factory with purple heroin needles on the ground and stray mutant children run around mumbling things about silk stockings and magic toads.

The end result kind of leaves me understanding why microsoft and sony have comfortably help back on a newer console, why higher resolution output has not really evolved, and why new methods of transferring high resolution signals and high refresh rates have not been expanded on or truly evolved in the span of a teenagers life.

If someone is happy with something, then throw in the occasional improvement/bone (the witcher 2 /console looks better than a first gen xbox game) the gtx 580 is incrementally better than the gtx 280 etc. But don't ever give them something that would actually change the very nature of the scales.

Obviously, I am not a engineer of hardware. So there might be something that I am ignorantly omitting. But that's how it sometimes seems from my standpoint.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitespider999*
> 
> Hey hypermatrix, one thing I have noticed in the few years of having a 2560x1440 screen is that lack of understanding from the general gaming community (not the rate elites) - in regards to what more pixels actually translates to.
> This is in Australia, perhaps it's true in other countries as well.
> To elaborate, a large number of gamers with below 1920x1080 monitors don't really see the big deal in getting a higher resolution, and it's rarely money holding them back. I understand this sentiment, as I had a 1920x1200 monitor for the culmination of years prior this upgrade.
> Console devote's are just a more extreme version of this. And they own many-thousand-dollar Tv's running on hardware that's about as productive as a 200 dollar pc conjured up with spare parts from some deranged factory with purple heroin needles on the ground and stray mutant children run around mumbling things about silk stockings and magic toads.
> The end result kind of leaves me understanding why microsoft and sony have comfortably help back on a newer console, why higher resolution output has not really evolved, and why new methods of transferring high resolution signals and high refresh rates have not been expanded on or truly evolved in the span of a teenagers life.
> If someone is happy with something, then throw in the occasional improvement/bone (the witcher 2 /console looks better than a first gen xbox game) the gtx 580 is incrementally better than the gtx 280 etc. But don't ever give them something that would actually change the very nature of the scales.
> Obviously, I am not a engineer of hardware. So there might be something that I am ignorantly omitting. But that's how it sometimes seems from my standpoint.


Few things. Most important of which (imo) is regarding consoles. Consoles, actually do quite well. They provide better graphics per mhz. Or, create better graphics per "performance mark." Reason being consoles are the exact same. Games can be optimized. Someone makes a PS3 game, they know how every single PS3 will perform, and build a game around it accordingly. Whereas a PC maker has to go over 5+ years of hardware and make sure it's compatible across them, along with 2 large video card manufacturers and their differing systems (ie. physx, txaa from nvidia), and onboard like Intel's chips.

Then we take a look at a game like, say...Modern Warfare 3. Blockbuster hit. Not the prettiest graphics, but a $250 PS3 can play it better than a $500 PC can. So you have to hand it to the PS3. But at the same time, the xbox/ps3 have held back the quality of PC games as well, because developers have toned down their system requirements, so it would be an easy port over to the consoles as well (ie. Crysis 2, as opposed to Crysis 1). But despite all this...most console games, don't even run at 720p (which is just a quarter of the resolution of these monitors). Which explains that performance. Now, when it comes to resolution...it's actually a lot tougher than you might think. Apple is pushing hard to expand resolution with all their talks of "retina" displays. The iPad's 2048x1536 resolution at 3.14 MILLION pixels for example, is 50% more pixels than your 1080p TV. But it's hard, because if you make a product that people don't know/think they want, you lose money. So only someone like Apple is ballsy enough to start a trend like this.

Now let's talk about bandwidth for a second. a 2560x1440 picture, is 3.7 million pixels. At standard 60 frames per second, that means 221 million individual pixel signals per second. So whatever the interface is, has to be able to dictate a specific colour to a specific pixel, at a rate of 221 million...every second. Let's put that in a size format we understand. If you have uncompressed video, so basically a 30 frame video is treated as 30 individual pictures (same as your monitor), that requires around 300 MB per second. Or, at 120hz which some of us are running it at, 1.25GigaBYTES (not bits) per second. Meaning a Terabyte hard drive's worth of video signals wouldn't be enough for for 15 minutes of video signal. Compare that to a 1080p bluray encoded video doing 2 hours in under 20gb. So what ends up being the issue is that it takes a "lot" of bandwidth to push out this type of resolution. And because the DVI standard is designed with copper cables, the bandwidth requirement of higher resolutions/refresh rates, exceeds the capacity of what copper itself can handle.

So...why not make a new/better port? Well...each revision of HDMI, for example, has worked on that. DisplayPort has increased it and will do so even further. But you have to remember that things have to come to a consumer-friendly price point before anyone makes it. And that's where it gets expensive. Because as far as technicality goes...yeah, make your DVI cables out of pure gold. That'll help up that resolution and refresh rate. =D And then on the other end of it, is the lcd's themselves. Miniaturization takes time. To make a higher resolution, you have to have the ability to create a panel with, for example, 8.8 million pixels ala 4K resolution. That's no easy task. And let's say that could be done. Games that required SLI to run at 1080p in full res (2 million pixels) now have to process 4.4x more data. And as you mentioned yourself...graphics processing power never goes up that much.







Which brings us to video cards...other than optimizations and new systems/etc...the biggest jumps happen with...again...miniaturization. Nvidia actually did a very good job this round. If you compare their old card to their new card, you're going to say...ok, it's only 40% more power...but what you're not realizing is, it's 40% more power, on a much smaller die. The old 580, for example, was a die size about 68% larger than the current 680's! So the new one is substantially smaller, and still upto 40% more performance! Nvidia realized this, and intentionally held the power back here.







They had too big of a jump and trumped AMD pretty hard. But even if that extra 68% translated to 68% more performance (doesn't really work that way), it still wouldn't be enough to power higher up displays. So Nvidia doesn't bother trying to.

So at the end of the day...it's a long cycle of one displays, video cards, software, interface systems, etc...all waiting to see who makes the jump, and if it's profitable, and if they can even keep up with it before they try.

As for Microsoft and Sony, yeah. They'll take their time. The longer they wait, the better performance they can put in their new consoles. If they were to build a system today...with a $250 price point, or even a $400 price point...honestly, they'd be hard pressed to get more than maybe 50% increased performance over their old product. And even that's being optimistic, and mostly relying on having some decent ram for once. They'd rather wait a little until they can build a system that can put out full 1080p, with good resolution, so at least they'll be covered in the nearly 100% of households who own 1080p tv systems now.

Why would I spend 6k on my computer system though, for example? Why do people SLI? And why is a 120hz 2560x1440 monitor beneficial? Well...in FPS's, that's a huge edge. Higher refresh rate lets you track people better. Larger screen + Higher Resolution means you can spot that pesky sniper way in the back of the map, instead of it being a giant blur. There are tons of advantages. But there simply isn't the processing power to handle it. And I've given up convincing people on the differences in resolution after I had people tell me they can't tell the difference between DVD and BluRay. I've given up on humanity in that regard. But...here I am, enjoying my monitor. Beating 1080p'ers with their 60hz monitors in FPS's. Never been happier. And could never go back to 60hz.







And yes, I honestly feel like I have a huge edge and my scores in MW3 reflect it.

That...was long. Ok. I'm done.









p.s. Regarding The Witcher 2. That is a terrible game, when it comes to graphics. It's so inefficient. And looks terrible! I mean, I'd show it off as a masterpiece of DX9...but DX11 games blow it out of the water.

Also....difference between 1080p and 1440p? Easy to show why it's better. Tell them this. (obviously click the pics to view them in a larger format, though still not at 2560x1440 view, sadly. not sure why it shrinks the large one)

This is what you see:


And this is what I see:


Which one would you rather be looking at if you were playing online right now?


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> For anyone looking to try out some pretty graphics @2560x1440 there is the free world of warcraft trial.
> 
> Even though it's an old game I find the level of detail is just stunning.


That's partly because they revamped the entire continents of Kalimdor and part of the Eastern kingdoms for the Cataclysm release. BTW eww gross Alaince . . .

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sonicBlue*
> 
> I don't have a very powerful computer (Athlon 64 x2 4200+ , asus 6770, 2GB ram) but managed to get it running smoothly with the following settings:
> 
> Shadow quality to "Fair"
> Multisampling to 1x (don't need it at 2560x1440!)
> Anisotropic 2x
> Ground clutter high
> Everything else at "good"
> Direct X11
> 64-bit client


If you get around a lot of water, you'll may have to drop the "liquid detail" setting to fair and, if you start to get FPS dips out in the world lower your "sunshafts" setting. "Shadow quality", "liquid detail" , "sunshafts", and "view distance" will have the largest impact on older cards. Anything that's a 6950 or higher should be able to have everything maxed out at the 2560x1440 resolution but, only if have a fairly decent CPU. WoW is far more taxing on the CPU than the GPU but obviously the GPU can make a substantial difference.


----------



## Whitespider999

What impressed me about the witcher 2 was the combination of technical and artistic. I'd also argue that it looks pretty incredible @ 2560x1440p. It has immense depth and detail that many, many, many dx11 games have not come even remotely close to matching for me. Sure, it had grainy shadows and pretty extreme popup at ultra. But I can't help but disagree on that count.

Honestly, the witcher 2 and crysis 2 in ultra are some of the most impressive visual examples I can think of. Crysis 2 on dx11 ultra = Incredible. Dx9 = horrid. Reason being, something to do with the hdr lighting. It's blurry in dx9 and defined in dx11. And once you get that parallax/tessellation kicking in, as well as ultra shading (which offers world reflections and improved ssao/hdao from what I can visually tell) it's hard not to frown at skyrim. Although I love the **** out of that game. Here is hoping for the skyrim graphics extender releasing in a human timeframe. (If you actively dislike the game, you might have just lost interest by this point)

In regards to your actual reply - without going on a quotation-reply-quotation system. Which requires a bunch of time. - I agree with pretty much everything you said.

I actually plan on getting the Catleap assuming the overclockable models are reintroduced in the overclock request thread. Although I don't think the competitive edge is what I will be ultimately interested in. I believe when paired with a gtx 680 or two - the general performance will be a lot more open ended. What i mean by that is - I have found certain vsync glitches and issues with games based on having a pure-60hz display. It's a long post in itself. However allowing the framerate to actually veer as far into the refresh as it wants - will provide me with a better performance overall. I can just find the general framerate level - and depening on the type of game and engine, get the optimum refresh and vsync/no vsync level for that game. And get far smoother results to boot.

I think the general smoothness of a game is the next big thing I want to perfect in my build. And multi-amd-gpu's tend to bring with them a bunch of frame perception issues, combine that with a 60hz monitor (although I have at least been enjoying 2560x1440 for the past few years) - and there are definitely some things I can do to change my entire gaming enjoyment.

Also, I can definitely see frames above 60fps on 120hz screens that I have messed around with (but never purchased, due to being unable to go back to 1920x1080 TN/LED). I am not exactly sure how far into the 120fps range I can actually see. But it's past 80fps.

That's another reason I think this screen will be beneficial. Smoooooottttthhhhh.

Anyway, just wanted to mention I like your youtube videos as well. I would like a few more rage spouts and dump people who say you are not getting 120hz. But other than that, it served as a good hype factor tool for me going ahead with the upgrade.


----------



## djxput

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Took me forever but I finally have a guide up on how you can record games and do general screen capture in high quality at our monitor's 1440p resolution. Check it out.
> 
> 
> 
> 3-part video. File links included in video description. Took me a lot longer than I thought it would to do it all and publish them/etc...So you better enjoy it!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. And yes. The guide was most definitely recorded and uploaded in 1440p as well. Haha. I'm a High-Res freak!


Watched all the screen capture vids already







... Great stuff - especially for people whom are new to it ...
a couple questions if you dont mind ...
1. What do you think about the program called dxtory? Have a friend that likes this program says it works better then fraps. Although yes it does cost a lil
2. Does using the capture program slow down your gameplay? - is it a detriment to gameplay?
3. When you compress what about x264 codec ... would this be better? I dont know much about them just know I often see things with this codec So if using a program like dxtory where it does some compression is this not advised because of the slow down to your computer?

thanks for the vids!


----------



## JumboShrimp

is it worth it to get the perfect pixel? what are the odds of the normal ones having dead pixels/bleed?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lgros max*
> 
> RivaTuner show 98 to 101 fps in game with vsync , still look choppy compare to 60hz 60fps. Weird even 61hz look choppy but, less than 100hz.


Like others have said, this is very likely frame dropping; you can test it by using the refresh rate multitool and seeing if you're getting any black squares in the middle of your strings of lit squares. If so, you're dropping frames and you won't be able to benefit from higher refresh rates with that monitor.


----------



## hybridtracer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JumboShrimp*
> 
> is it worth it to get the perfect pixel? what are the odds of the normal ones having dead pixels/bleed?


Not at all...it is a waste of money because perfect pixel doesn't guarantee no dead pixels only that it falls under Korean regulation(up to 5 dead pixels is okay). The chances of getting a display with no dead pixels is very good as the majority have gotten them. I've had 3 displays with no dead pixels. As far as back light bleed...that seems to be very common but very minimal. You wont see it except slightly with a black screen from certain angles.


----------



## Lgros max

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I think it is as alamone said. The pcb in the monitor will accept the input of 100hz, and tells the video driver that, but when it is sending the signal over to the panel from the pcb itself, it goes through the scaler and is unable to cope with displaying that refresh rate.


Oh found my problem this morning. I disabled rivatuner from msi afterburner on starup, I use fraps instead to see fps in game. Games are running butter smooth at 100hz. I'm really happy now.


----------



## JumboShrimp

awesome thanks


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djxput*
> 
> Watched all the screen capture vids already
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... Great stuff - especially for people whom are new to it ...
> a couple questions if you dont mind ...
> 1. What do you think about the program called dxtory? Have a friend that likes this program says it works better then fraps. Although yes it does cost a lil
> 2. Does using the capture program slow down your gameplay? - is it a detriment to gameplay?
> 3. When you compress what about x264 codec ... would this be better? I dont know much about them just know I often see things with this codec So if using a program like dxtory where it does some compression is this not advised because of the slow down to your computer?
> thanks for the vids!


This has been the best method, imo, simply because it "doesn't" slow down my gameplay. Whereas with fraps you record at 30 frames your gameplay drops to 30 frames, I still play at 80+ fps and have no issues whatsoever. I tried an x264 codec. It is a more common codec found in a lot of devices. Most capture cards have built-in h264 encoders, for example. I have both 32 and 64 bit installed. This version of Virtual Dub doesn't work with it. You can try an older one. But the one I listed above honestly worked really well. I've used VReaveal to convert to h264, and it was no better than the xvid setting listed there. And I think this way it's a lot more compact as well.

Dxtory is what I'd call a conventional method. Most methods are better than Fraps. But this has been the best method for both recording at high rez AND high framerate, with barely a hit to gameplay ability, and no huge hard disk space. Try it.







I mean, this method works so well that for my videos I was doing 30 fps screen capture in FRAPS of myself doing 30 fps screen capture with VirtualDub! Just because it is very very efficient in how it works.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lgros max*
> 
> Oh found my problem this morning. I disabled rivatuner from msi afterburner on starup, I use fraps instead to see fps in game. Games are running butter smooth at 100hz. I'm really happy now.


Told you to uninstall rivatuner! =D


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Few things. Most important of which (imo) is regarding consoles. Consoles, actually do quite well. They provide better graphics per mhz. Or, create better graphics per "performance mark." Reason being consoles are the exact same. Games can be optimized. Someone makes a PS3 game, they know how every single PS3 will perform, and build a game around it accordingly. Whereas a PC maker has to go over 5+ years of hardware and make sure it's compatible across them, along with 2 large video card manufacturers and their differing systems (ie. physx, txaa from nvidia), and onboard like Intel's chips.
> Then we take a look at a game like, say...Modern Warfare 3. Blockbuster hit. Not the prettiest graphics, but a $250 PS3 can play it better than a $500 PC can. So you have to hand it to the PS3. But at the same time, the xbox/ps3 have held back the quality of PC games as well, because developers have toned down their system requirements, so it would be an easy port over to the consoles as well (ie. Crysis 2, as opposed to Crysis 1). But despite all this...most console games, don't even run at 720p (which is just a quarter of the resolution of these monitors). Which explains that performance. Now, when it comes to resolution...it's actually a lot tougher than you might think. Apple is pushing hard to expand resolution with all their talks of "retina" displays. The iPad's 2048x1536 resolution at 3.14 MILLION pixels for example, is 50% more pixels than your 1080p TV. But it's hard, because if you make a product that people don't know/think they want, you lose money. So only someone like Apple is ballsy enough to start a trend like this.
> Now let's talk about bandwidth for a second. a 2560x1440 picture, is 3.7 million pixels. At standard 60 frames per second, that means 221 million individual pixel signals per second. So whatever the interface is, has to be able to dictate a specific colour to a specific pixel, at a rate of 221 million...every second. Let's put that in a size format we understand. If you have uncompressed video, so basically a 30 frame video is treated as 30 individual pictures (same as your monitor), that requires around 300 MB per second. Or, at 120hz which some of us are running it at, 1.25GigaBYTES (not bits) per second. Meaning a Terabyte hard drive's worth of video signals wouldn't be enough for for 15 minutes of video signal. Compare that to a 1080p bluray encoded video doing 2 hours in under 20gb. So what ends up being the issue is that it takes a "lot" of bandwidth to push out this type of resolution. And because the DVI standard is designed with copper cables, the bandwidth requirement of higher resolutions/refresh rates, exceeds the capacity of what copper itself can handle.
> So...why not make a new/better port? Well...each revision of HDMI, for example, has worked on that. DisplayPort has increased it and will do so even further. But you have to remember that things have to come to a consumer-friendly price point before anyone makes it. And that's where it gets expensive. Because as far as technicality goes...yeah, make your DVI cables out of pure gold. That'll help up that resolution and refresh rate. =D And then on the other end of it, is the lcd's themselves. Miniaturization takes time. To make a higher resolution, you have to have the ability to create a panel with, for example, 8.8 million pixels ala 4K resolution. That's no easy task. And let's say that could be done. Games that required SLI to run at 1080p in full res (2 million pixels) now have to process 4.4x more data. And as you mentioned yourself...graphics processing power never goes up that much.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which brings us to video cards...other than optimizations and new systems/etc...the biggest jumps happen with...again...miniaturization. Nvidia actually did a very good job this round. If you compare their old card to their new card, you're going to say...ok, it's only 40% more power...but what you're not realizing is, it's 40% more power, on a much smaller die. The old 580, for example, was a die size about 68% larger than the current 680's! So the new one is substantially smaller, and still upto 40% more performance! Nvidia realized this, and intentionally held the power back here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They had too big of a jump and trumped AMD pretty hard. But even if that extra 68% translated to 68% more performance (doesn't really work that way), it still wouldn't be enough to power higher up displays. So Nvidia doesn't bother trying to.
> So at the end of the day...it's a long cycle of one displays, video cards, software, interface systems, etc...all waiting to see who makes the jump, and if it's profitable, and if they can even keep up with it before they try.
> As for Microsoft and Sony, yeah. They'll take their time. The longer they wait, the better performance they can put in their new consoles. If they were to build a system today...with a $250 price point, or even a $400 price point...honestly, they'd be hard pressed to get more than maybe 50% increased performance over their old product. And even that's being optimistic, and mostly relying on having some decent ram for once. They'd rather wait a little until they can build a system that can put out full 1080p, with good resolution, so at least they'll be covered in the nearly 100% of households who own 1080p tv systems now.
> Why would I spend 6k on my computer system though, for example? Why do people SLI? And why is a 120hz 2560x1440 monitor beneficial? Well...in FPS's, that's a huge edge. Higher refresh rate lets you track people better. Larger screen + Higher Resolution means you can spot that pesky sniper way in the back of the map, instead of it being a giant blur. There are tons of advantages. But there simply isn't the processing power to handle it. And I've given up convincing people on the differences in resolution after I had people tell me they can't tell the difference between DVD and BluRay. I've given up on humanity in that regard. But...here I am, enjoying my monitor. Beating 1080p'ers with their 60hz monitors in FPS's. Never been happier. And could never go back to 60hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And yes, I honestly feel like I have a huge edge and my scores in MW3 reflect it.
> That...was long. Ok. I'm done.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. Regarding The Witcher 2. That is a terrible game, when it comes to graphics. It's so inefficient. And looks terrible! I mean, I'd show it off as a masterpiece of DX9...but DX11 games blow it out of the water.
> Also....difference between 1080p and 1440p? Easy to show why it's better. Tell them this. (obviously click the pics to view them in a larger format, though still not at 2560x1440 view, sadly. not sure why it shrinks the large one)
> This is what you see:
> 
> And this is what I see:
> 
> Which one would you rather be looking at if you were playing online right now?


Although I dislike Apple as a company and their business practices, but I do thank them for driving technology forward. Without Apple, people would have still taken their sweet ass time and milk current technology and marginal improved versions for as long as they can.

120hz is ridiculously beneficial, not only in playing games but general everyday use as well. Going from CRT to LCD monitor was really a downgrade in terms of quality. Finally with the semi-mainstream of IPS monitors (thank you apple), and the 120hz monitors (thank you 3D movies), we could gain some of that lost performance back.

I really hate when mainstream marketing terms like HD (1080p) and Retina (>= 1080p) are introduced, but I could see how they could make the end consumer easier to understand the technology.

For anyone doubting 120hz or 1440p, they must be either delusional or have never seen either in action.

Btw Hyper, you seem to be enjoying your time off from work







, I wish these 2B monitors get manufactured faster so I can play with them too


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Btw Hyper, you seem to be enjoying your time off from work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I wish these 2B monitors get manufactured faster so I can play with them too


Haha. You remembered.







Yeah I've been trying to figure out what I want to do with my life. I hate the normal concept of "showing up to work" and etc...So...yeah. We'll see.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Although I dislike Apple as a company and their business practices, but I do thank them for driving technology forward. Without Apple, people would have still taken their sweet ass time and milk current technology and marginal improved versions for as long as they can.
> *120hz is ridiculously beneficial, not only in playing games but general everyday use as well.* Going from CRT to LCD monitor was really a downgrade in terms of quality. Finally with the semi-mainstream of IPS monitors (thank you apple), and the 120hz monitors (thank you 3D movies), we could gain some of that lost performance back.
> I really hate when mainstream marketing terms like HD (1080p) and Retina (>= 1080p) are introduced, but I could see how they could make the end consumer easier to understand the technology.
> For anyone doubting 120hz or 1440p, they must be either delusional or have never seen either in action.
> Btw Hyper, you seem to be enjoying your time off from work
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , I wish these 2B monitors get manufactured faster so I can play with them too


Uh, could you explain that one to me please? The only everyday use benefit I can think of is correcting the 3:2 pulldown of 24 fps content.


----------



## Lgros max

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Told you to uninstall rivatuner! =D


Yep your the man HyperMatrix! 2c multi, may be are not all doomed to 60hz.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lgros max*
> 
> Yep your the man HyperMatrix! 2c multi, may be are not all doomed to 60hz.


Yeah as I said I had heard others with Multi's be able to OC. I'd been telling people some Multi's can be OC'd if they wanted to buy one and try it too. So I'm glad I wasn't wrong all this time. Else I'd have a bunch of people upset about Hyper lying. Haha.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Uh, could you explain that one to me please? The only everyday use benefit I can think of is correcting the 3:2 pulldown of 24 fps content.


A lot easier on the eyes. A Lot easier.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> A lot easier on the eyes. A Lot easier.


I don't find that to be the case







What exactly do you find that makes it easier on your eyes?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't find that to be the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly do you find that makes it easier on your eyes?


Mouse moving around. Windows moving around. Any type of motion at all. I find looking at 60hz to be painful in comparison. I actually find that I have to work harder to keep up and understand it. And yeah after a while you get used to it, but your eyes/brain are still working overtime to fill in the motion gaps! So 120hz I'm sure some doctor somewhere will confirm, reduces fatigue as it's a much more natural motion! =D I'm sure to you this sounds as stupid as a Gunnar advertisement does to me.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Mouse moving around. Windows moving around. Any type of motion at all. I find looking at 60hz to be painful in comparison. I actually find that I have to work harder to keep up and understand it. And yeah after a while you get used to it, but your eyes/brain are still working overtime to fill in the motion gaps! So 120hz I'm sure some doctor somewhere will confirm, reduces fatigue as it's a much more natural motion! =D I'm sure to you this sounds as stupid as a Gunnar advertisement does to me.


Ah. I guess I just don't end up doing that much motion intensive stuff on my desktop. Or if I do, it's not the actual motion that matters, just where stuff ends up on the screen. I don't actually look at where my mouse is when I use it, just where it's supposed to go.

Then again, I haven't done any CAD work on it (I'm not relishing having to buy an active DP to DL-DVI for that).

Games are better, definitely. Desktop... I find not so much.


----------



## atmosfar

Can any EU/UK owners recommend a replacement mount or stand? Mine has the infamous lean. I've removed the back silver arch so it's all good to go. I'd appreciate suggestions that are as cheap as possible


----------



## Gemsi

So got my replacement DVI-D Cable today and my monitor is still just flashing green and red, looking like I'm going to have to go through the hassle of sending it back, which is a real shame as the little time it was functioning the screen was amazing


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> So got my replacement DVI-D Cable today and my monitor is still just flashing green and red, looking like I'm going to have to go through the hassle of sending it back, which is a real shame as the little time it was functioning the screen was amazing


I don't know if you've been replied to yet elsewhere, but I had the same issue when I tried switching from the supplied cable to a Belkin L-shaped 10ft one. I switched back and forth a bunch of times until I was blue in the face with restarts. After about 7-8 switches and random wiggling, it worked again and I haven't had problems since. Try wiggling things around maybe?
Edit: It works with the belkin and the original now, just was initially fussy when I changed it from orig to belkin.


----------



## Gemsi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftedbeef*
> 
> I don't know if you've been replied to yet elsewhere, but I had the same issue when I tried switching from the supplied cable to a Belkin L-shaped 10ft one. I switched back and forth a bunch of times until I was blue in the face with restarts. After about 7-8 switches and random wiggling, it worked again and I haven't had problems since. Try wiggling things around maybe?
> Edit: It works with the belkin and the original now, just was initially fussy when I changed it from orig to belkin.


I will try it as after all it can't hurt, wiggle at both ends or just at the monitor ?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> I will try it as after all it can't hurt, wiggle at both ends or just at the monitor ?


Wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle wiggle, yeah. Sorry. Couldn't resist. I know this isn't constructive. Ok I'm off.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Uh, could you explain that one to me please? The only everyday use benefit I can think of is correcting the 3:2 pulldown of 24 fps content.


One of the nicest/biggest things I noticed is that, when I use hyper scroll to scroll down websites, I don't want to kill myself and gouge my eyes out.


----------



## DrunkenLizard

So tempted to pick up a pair of these, maybe when my tax return comes in


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

OP Updated with link to color profiles - someone PM'd me that the links were down - I dropped them onto one of my websites (non-computer related! No, not porn either, sorry.)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> One of the nicest/biggest things I noticed is that, when I use hyper scroll to scroll down websites, I don't want to kill myself and gouge my eyes out.


What is hyperscroll?


----------



## Shiftedbeef

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gemsi*
> 
> I will try it as after all it can't hurt, wiggle at both ends or just at the monitor ?


Wiggle at the monitor end, I would imagine. If you weren't having problems with your GPU's DVI output port before, it's likely the monitor's port that needs some wiggle


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> What is hyperscroll?


a feature on logitech mice where you can scroll without the clicky click thing

so your scroll wheel turns into a... wheel, and you just spin that thing and pages go WHOAWHAOWHAOWHOAWA

it's just scrolling really fast basically

but even just scrolling down pages normally, it'll still be very noticable


----------



## sonicBlue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't find that to be the case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What exactly do you find that makes it easier on your eyes?
> 
> 
> 
> Mouse moving around. Windows moving around. Any type of motion at all. I find looking at 60hz to be painful in comparison. I actually find that I have to work harder to keep up and understand it. And yeah after a while you get used to it, but your eyes/brain are still working overtime to fill in the motion gaps! So 120hz I'm sure some doctor somewhere will confirm, reduces fatigue as it's a much more natural motion! =D I'm sure to you this sounds as stupid as a Gunnar advertisement does to me.
Click to expand...

I must be a complete noob because even 60fps @ 60hz on my monitor looks amazing to me. And yes I have seen what 120fps @ 120hz LCD looks like, and it is basically as clear as CRT motion, but I'm not complaining







(my PC isn't capable of doing more than 60fps anyway)

I think the refresh rate of the mouse is hugely important as well, because most standard USB mice don't seem to refresh very fast and will give you jerky panning motion. I know this because the one I have now is guilty of it







(in the old days this was easily fixed with PS/2 refresh rate tool...no such luck with these low polling rate USB mice, especially with wireless).

Next on the shopping list: a better mouse with high refresh rate. Can anyone suggest a good one? Preferably a keyboard + mouse combo would be nice, but the mouse must have high refresh rate for smooth pans.


----------



## erocker

Looks like my monitor (Catleap 2c) is developing an issue. I'm now getting a faint line that runs vertically down the center of the screen. Anyone have any ideas what this is?


----------



## tcboy88

what can I do with the little smudge/grey spot on screen?
it is not oil or dust on the surface, it is something inside
probably a burn mark?

sorry for the camera quality (galaxy S), try click it and open in larger mode

the smudge is not obvious from any random angle but it is obvious from the straight angle (viewing straight as 1st person)
it size about 4x4mm

I know it is just a very small defect
but I bought the perfect pixel version and the panel is not perfect somehow, and that somehow make me a little sad
I dont think the perfect pixel policy warrant against this kind of defect right? do they?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> 
> 
> what can I do with the little smudge/grey spot on screen?
> it is not oil or dust on the surface, it is something inside
> probably a burn mark?
> 
> sorry for the camera quality (galaxy S), try click it and open in larger mode
> 
> the smudge is not obvious from any random angle but it is obvious from the straight angle (viewing straight as 1st person)
> it size about 4x4mm
> 
> I know it is just a very small defect
> but I bought the perfect pixel version and the panel is not perfect somehow, and that somehow make me a little sad
> I dont think the perfect pixel policy warrant against this kind of defect right? do they?


I seriously cannot see anything - sorry!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> Looks like my monitor (Catleap 2c) is developing an issue. I'm now getting a faint line that runs vertically down the center of the screen. Anyone have any ideas what this is?


Screenshot?


----------



## erocker

At work atm.. Hopefully my camera will pick it up. It's a pretty faint line, in the middle running vertically and is 1 pixel wide.


----------



## tcboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I seriously cannot see anything - sorry!


cannot see? =((
a grey smudge...
maybe i am too picky... but mine suppose to be Perfect version lol


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I seriously cannot see anything - sorry!
> 
> 
> 
> cannot see? =((
> a grey smudge...
> maybe i am too picky... but mine suppose to be Perfect version lol
Click to expand...

The fact that these are mainly A- panels having perfect pixel, perfect anything, is a stretch. There will be some irregularities in a small percentage of the panels that are well within specs. The majority appear to be received with no dead pixels, but like you, some people are reporting other issues (LED brightness, lines, weird action on wake up, etc.) All of this comes down to the fact you paid $350 (or thereabouts) for a monitor shipped to your door from Korea. Not too shabby with even a couple of defects.

The perfect panel guarantee that people paid for may or may not be a sham. I have read people complain of issues having paid the up-charge. I think most people agree to forego paying the extra charge as the odds of getting 1-2 dead pixels is slim.

Sorry to hear your screen has an issue.


----------



## tcboy88

I paid about 270usd because I am in Korea =)
and i got the 2B version that can OC
guess I really shouldnt complain much
thanks anyway


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Ya no kidding! SHUSH YOU!!


----------



## tcboy88

haha, I could have get the pcbank 3view Perfect version at 210usd
but i insist of getting catleap because i like the design
but catleap's stand is really crappy, my panel lean to the right


----------



## hybridtracer

Just want to make a note that under the color calibration tab in OP, the brightness adjustment is not universal. I have two monitors and on one of them going to lowest setting then up 10 clicks works well and puts it at a good level. On my second monitor, the step for each press is much lower. I have to press it nearly 20 times in order to get the same brightness as my first monitor. Just an FYI to add a note in the OP *may not apply to all*


----------



## TheJesus

It seems that the majority of 2B panels are still just floating around in Korea... *sigh*


----------



## tcboy88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> It seems that the majority of 2B panels are still just floating around in Korea... *sigh*


not really
u have higher chance of getting 2B if u willing to pay the premium for the perfect version
it is around 60 usd more expensive
thats why less people are buying it
then there are more old 2B stocks left
common sense


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> At work atm.. Hopefully my camera will pick it up. It's a pretty faint line, in the middle running vertically and is 1 pixel wide.


It won't show up in a screenshot and camera is dead atm. I'm going to pull the monitor apart as the middle column of pixels just seems to be stuck on a grey tone. Bummed.


----------



## jbuschdev

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Ya no kidding! SHUSH YOU!!


I just picked up 3 Crossover 27Q's. I got impatient and found a good enough deal.

But I'll be opening one up once I confirm them as working. So we can find out if those other PCB's might work. Also see if I can mod it and take off most of the bezel.

From what I understand you were able to source one or two of the PCB's but not the cables? Anyways. Once I open these up we'll find out what they have inside. Won't be for a couple days, but I haven't seen anyone else take apart a crossover.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> cannot see? =((
> a grey smudge...
> maybe i am too picky... but mine suppose to be Perfect version lol


If you place the cursor on the screen next to the area, does it move as you move your head around? I had some dust in mine between the LCD and the backlight diffuser and it looked like out-of-focus smudges behind the actual pixels.


----------



## Crezzlin

Got my monitors today, all I can say is the picture quality looks better than my Hazro 30" and very little screen glare unlike the Hazro.. I've checked them all for dead pixels etc but can't find any faults.

Going to try de-bezel them this weekend and use in portrait mode..


----------



## eternal7trance

I'm waiting for the new dvi-d cord to come in tomorrow, hopefully that will fix the issues I'm having with the monitor.

Right now it's just doing a bunch of vertical lines up and down with a really distorted picture of the desktop and it keeps flashing really bright.


----------



## ctrlhomer

Is it just me or when you start overclocking the monitor the individual pixels became more defined? This is somewhat hard to describe and the best what I can do is instead have having to be less than 4 inches away from the screen you can be in the 3-5 foot range and see individual pixels. There not flashing, they just became easier to spot. I am thinking that its the dvi cable (already placed an order for a higher quality one), but I could be wrong.

Side note

I start noticing this issue above 60hz and the affect is the same all the way up to my stable max of 115hz with 120hz causing artifacts


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Got my monitors today, all I can say is the picture quality looks better than my Hazro 30" and very little screen glare unlike the Hazro.. I've checked them all for dead pixels etc but can't find any faults.
> Going to try de-bezel them this weekend and use in portrait mode..


please post some pics of your stand and what type. Ty.


----------



## siberx

Just read the first review I've seen for a 4GB GTX680; for anybody wondering, it looks like the extra 2GB isn't of much benefit if you're running a single monitor, even at 2560x1600 (and, by extension, the Catleap's 2560x1440). There's at best a few frames here and there, but nothing to indicate the card is starved for memory. They didn't *really* push them (their high AA tests were at 1920) but at that point you'd be dipping well below 60fps, so it's not really relevant.

Long story short - if you're planning multiple monitors the 4GB GTX680's may still be worth it; for a single Catleap a GTX680 2GB is more than sufficient.


----------



## Whitespider999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tcboy88*
> 
> not really
> u have higher chance of getting 2B if u willing to pay the premium for the perfect version
> it is around 60 usd more expensive
> thats why less people are buying it
> then there are more old 2B stocks left
> common sense


That's the thing, I am not coming into this to get a 2560x1440 monitor (already have a dell u2711 which I will sell if I get the 2b version). I want the combination of monitor and refresh. Even if I got a perfect version, odds are that it won't be the 2b model.

Then it would be a waste of money. _*goes back to Yamakasi Catleap Q270 (100hz guaranteed) thread*_


----------



## SJetski71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> Looks like my monitor (Catleap 2c) is developing an issue. I'm now getting a faint line that runs vertically down the center of the screen. Anyone have any ideas what this is?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> At work atm.. Hopefully my camera will pick it up. It's a pretty faint line, in the middle running vertically and is 1 pixel wide.


A decent chance it's a loose cable connector on the inside of the monitor, but before taking it apart to reseat the internal cables i would try tightening the DVI cable first.

There's also a chance that you have a kinked/stretched cable *inside* the monitor, or one of the internal boards could be going bad as well (T-con or mainboard that is).


----------



## digitalforce

Finally got my 2C Catleap today. Came from a 27" 1080P HP Glossy that looked GREAT but this just blows it out of the water. There is minimal backlight bleed on the right sides but not a deal breaker. My MSI GTX 580 Lightning runs most games flawlessly but I had to go to max OC for Metro 2033. Either way, I am extremely satisfied with saving $500+ on my monitor purchase.

I would LOVE to go with the OC PCB but I am not good at taking apart electronics and I don't want to jack up this beauty.

The colors etc look pretty cool but the red are a TAD bit anemic... other than that,


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Got my monitors today, all I can say is the picture quality looks better than my Hazro 30" and very little screen glare unlike the Hazro.. I've checked them all for dead pixels etc but can't find any faults.
> 
> Going to try de-bezel them this weekend and use in portrait mode..


I was going to build a custom stand for 3 in portrait mode for a friend, but Houston we have a slight problem. The panels are super slim and the mounting points would make these real tight to each other, EXCEPT, there is the 1/2" or so LED bottom on these screens so while 2 would be nice and tight, the third would have an awkward distance if you didn't overlap it.

From what I can tell by placing his three up in my little jig I made there is no way to solve this issue so he is going with a different setup. He didn't like how the third would overlap and kill the smoothness of the screens in the arc. Of course I told him we could increase the gaps, but he loved them so close that having the larger gap killed it. Fine by me - less work!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jbuschdev*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Ya no kidding! SHUSH YOU!!
> 
> 
> 
> I just picked up 3 Crossover 27Q's. I got impatient and found a good enough deal.
> 
> But I'll be opening one up once I confirm them as working. So we can find out if those other PCB's might work. Also see if I can mod it and take off most of the bezel.
> 
> From what I understand you were able to source one or two of the PCB's but not the cables? Anyways. Once I open these up we'll find out what they have inside. Won't be for a couple days, but I haven't seen anyone else take apart a crossover.
Click to expand...

I received an entire set of internals cables and all (and that was like pulling teeth!) The more I look at the cables, the more I am convinced these can be easily copied. If you can sleeve a PSU, you can make these cables. My PCBs did not go out to China today (I had to work too much! I hate that.) Hopefully, tomorrow morning I can get them boxed and sent.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I was going to build a custom stand for 3 in portrait mode for a friend, but Houston we have a slight problem. The panels are super slim and the mounting points would make these real tight to each other, EXCEPT, there is the 1/2" or so LED bottom on these screens so while 2 would be nice and tight, the third would have an awkward distance if you didn't overlap it.
> 
> From what I can tell by placing his three up in my little jig I made there is no way to solve this issue so he is going with a different setup. He didn't like how the third would overlap and kill the smoothness of the screens in the arc. Of course I told him we could increase the gaps, but he loved them so close that having the larger gap killed it. Fine by me - less work!


Would a tripple monoprice set-up like this work for him? $80 shipped. Only problem I see is that you would need to mount the monitor in portrait mode, since the mount does not rotate. http://widescreengamingforum.com/forum/11518/monoprice-3-way-adjustable-monitor-arms-triple-setup

I'm thinking of getting a second monoprice mount and replacing my 40" Samsung with 2 catleaps as soon as the 100Hz ones are available.


----------



## digitalforce

Can someone post instructions for an NVIDIA GTX 580 to OC to just 65hz? Do you still have to install Powerstrip to do that?

Let me know -- Thanks!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Can someone post instructions for an NVIDIA GTX 580 to OC to just 65hz? Do you still have to install Powerstrip to do that?
> Let me know -- Thanks!


Should be the same steps as in my Nvidia video guide here: 




Just, when doing custom resolution, set it to 65hz. Or preferrably, 67hz as I think the non-OC versions are capable of it.

On a side note, I'm just compressing and in the process of uploading the AMD OC guide. I didn't do the whole "Record screen with iPad" deal. I left the computer reboots out of it and just did basic screen capture. I hated recording my computer screen with the iPad. Lol. Such a stupid idea. Haha.


----------



## wantedspidy

just an FYI, the instructions for prepping this monitor for use with VESA stands is only for the dual link DVI model only.

I bought the version with HDMI, and only the front bezel plastic can be removed. You have to unscrew an additional 4 screws. Also there are a lot more cables, which makes the process 'interesting'.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

So I just finally found this. Really interested in buying one of these monitors, but really unsure which model is best.

I have 2x6970s 2GB so I believe even BF3 should play on ultra with these cards @ 2560x1440. But which one is best? My cards have DVI (dual), hdmi, displayport. Is any particular model better for gaming, ie has less input lag, etc?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> So I just finally found this. Really interested in buying one of these monitors, but really unsure which model is best.
> I have 2x6970s 2GB so I believe even BF3 should play on ultra with these cards @ 2560x1440. But which one is best? My cards have DVI (dual), hdmi, displayport. Is any particular model better for gaming, ie has less input lag, etc?


2x 6970's should give you at least 60 fps on average but will struggle with some parts. at full ultra at that resolution my 2x gtx 680's with every possible setting maxed gives me between 70-140fps in multiplayer. Yeah, that's a fairly huge range. Just depends on what map, how large, how many players (64-player server in my case), etc...


----------



## DrRetina

HyperMatrix: Thanks a bunch for the AMD/ATI overclock youtube video. +rep

Btw: is that 2560x1440 resolution you get on youtube when you choose "original" in the quality setting?


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> 2x 6970's should give you at least 60 fps on average but will struggle with some parts. at full ultra at that resolution my 2x gtx 680's with every possible setting maxed gives me between 70-140fps in multiplayer. Yeah, that's a fairly huge range. Just depends on what map, how large, how many players (64-player server in my case), etc...


Yeah, at ultra at 1920x1200 (2,304,000 pixels) both my cards hit about 75 to 80% at the worst spots with vsync to 60fps.

If its 100% linear (it should be): 2560x1440 (3,686,400 pixels) I should be able to get 45-50fps in the worst spots considering the 60% additional resolution. Thats pretty acceptable. I don't think 2GB will limit me either at that resolution.

Still, anyone know which model is best for gaming?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrRetina*
> 
> HyperMatrix: Thanks a bunch for the AMD/ATI overclock youtube video. +rep
> Btw: is that 2560x1440 resolution you get on youtube when you choose "original" in the quality setting?


Yup. You can confirm it by right-clicking the video, and selecting "Show Video Info."


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Yeah, at ultra at 1920x1200 (2,304,000 pixels) both my cards hit about 75 to 80% at the worst spots with vsync to 60fps.
> If its 100% linear (it should be): 2560x1440 (3,686,400 pixels) I should be able to get 45-50fps in the worst spots considering the 60% additional resolution. Thats pretty acceptable. I don't think 2GB will limit me either at that resolution.
> Still, anyone know which model is best for gaming?


2GB should be enough for BF3 at that resolution, yes. It uses roughly 1200-1800MB memory depending on what level Anti Aliasing you have going. And well I'd stick with the Catleap, obviously, as there's a possibility of getting PCB's replaced so everyone can overclock to 105-125hz, whereas that's not going to happen with the other monitors.


----------



## Ross211

I finally decided to make the purchase after scoping the Catleap monitor threads here and at a couple other forums. I purchased a Catleap Q270 SE from dcsamsungmall last night. I just got my FedEx tracking # earlier, it should be here by 4-23 according to FedEx.

I can't wait for 2560x1440 in BF3 but I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to tone down the settings using my GTX 570.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

which catleap though? There are 5 different versions? I believe the FAQ says they all use the same panel but are any of them slighly better due to input lag or glare, etc for gaming?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> which catleap though? There are 5 different versions? I believe the FAQ says they all use the same panel but are any of them slighly better due to input lag or glare, etc for gaming?


Well there are really just 2 models. Multi-input, and dual-link dvi only input. The rest is just SE = No speakers. Tempered Glass = Same monitor but with glass glued on it. I've heard some of the Multi inputs can still be OC'd, but they also have a bit more input lag (though I haven't heard anyone mention they can tell the difference)


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Got my monitors today, all I can say is the picture quality looks better than my Hazro 30" and very little screen glare unlike the Hazro.. I've checked them all for dead pixels etc but can't find any faults.
> 
> Going to try de-bezel them this weekend and use in portrait mode..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to build a custom stand for 3 in portrait mode for a friend, but Houston we have a slight problem. The panels are super slim and the mounting points would make these real tight to each other, EXCEPT, there is the 1/2" or so LED bottom on these screens so while 2 would be nice and tight, the third would have an awkward distance if you didn't overlap it.
> 
> From what I can tell by placing his three up in my little jig I made there is no way to solve this issue so he is going with a different setup. He didn't like how the third would overlap and kill the smoothness of the screens in the arc. Of course I told him we could increase the gaps, but he loved them so close that having the larger gap killed it. Fine by me - less work!
Click to expand...

Hi yeah I noticed this before I got them, I just hope when I remove the bezel it will be the same size on all four corners.. If no back to landscape..

I will post pictures when done.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ross211*
> 
> I finally decided to make the purchase after scoping the Catleap monitor threads here and at a couple other forums. I purchased a Catleap Q270 SE from dcsamsungmall last night. I just got my FedEx tracking # earlier, it should be here by 4-23 according to FedEx.
> I can't wait for 2560x1440 in BF3 but I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to tone down the settings using my GTX 570.


Just did the same. Hopefully the cable that comes with it isn't crap. I have a cable that came with my Dell u2412m though, I think its DVI-dual. Not sure. We'll see how fast dcsamsungmall ships for me on today's order!







God, 2460 res is going to be nutters


----------



## urliam

Just got mine. I had been waiting it for 2 weeks almost! I read here that somebody in USA got theirs in 36-48 hours after placing the order. It's incredible crazy fast delivery, I guess my screen was being carried by hands all the way long, however it's Russian EMS service. I bought mine from dream seller, the original box was just wrapped in 2 layers of air bubble film. It's 2C of course. Good news: no damage, no dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleeding, no green tint, no taxes. Bad news: there are two tiny spots (2-3 pixel size) just under the central area of the screen. Does anybody have anything like that? My display is non tempered glass so the spots are apparently on the inner layers of the screen. I can distinguish them only on a white background. I have to get used to not seeing them. The second bad news that the screen has a noticeable uneven backlight on the minimal level of brightness. The left half of the the screen is more dimmer than the right one. Increasing the brightness on 2-3 steps eliminates the difference. AFAIK each Catleap has this flaw. In my case it is not as bad as on that pic posted here before http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6d/600x450px-LL-6d1bb4a7_Snapshot_20120404.jpeg
Nevertheless it's noticeable and I hate that. I know there is a way to get rid of it but my soldering skills are almost zero. I have to increase the brightness on the screen till to the level when the blacklight becomes even and then I just reduce the brightness via nvidia panel to avoid eyes strain caused by the excessive brightness.
Probably you have already known that this model doesn't have PWM controller onboard. No PWM, no eyes strain, but we have got another side effects: just set the brightness to the minimum and look at you screen attentively, besides uneven backlight you can also notice some slightly yellish areas. Partly it is because of we have no PWN.
In comparison to my old glossy NEC 20WGX2 S-IPS 6GTG CCFL:
1)the new one is totally huge
2)twice less reflections on glossy surface - nice!
3)launch my favorite game Arma 2 and play for a while...rather feel disappointment from the response time.
5 years old monitor faster than new one. Now I know what the ghosting is :-( However the new panel definitely increases
the immersion effect of the game overall.
Total: It's definitely worth for its money but it has some minor flaws.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urliam*
> 
> Just got mine. I had been waiting it for 2 weeks almost! I read here that somebody in USA got theirs in 36-48 hours after placing the order. It's incredible crazy fast delivery, I guess my screen was being carried by hands all the way long, however it's Russian EMS service. I bought mine from dream seller, the original box was just wrapped in 2 layers of air bubble film. It's 2C of course. Good news: no damage, no dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleeding, no green tint, no taxes. Bad news: there are two tiny spots (2-3 pixel size) just under the central area of the screen. Does anybody have anything like that? My display is non tempered glass so the spots are apparently on the inner layers of the screen. I can distinguish them only on a white background. I have to get used to not seeing them. The second bad news that the screen has a noticeable uneven backlight on the minimal level of brightness. The left half of the the screen is more dimmer than the right one. Increasing the brightness on 2-3 steps eliminates the difference. AFAIK each Catleap has this flaw. In my case it is not as bad as on that pic posted here before http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6d/600x450px-LL-6d1bb4a7_Snapshot_20120404.jpeg
> Nevertheless it's noticeable and I hate that. I know there is a way to get rid of it but my soldering skills are almost zero. I have to increase the brightness on the screen till to the level when the blacklight becomes even and then I just reduce the brightness via nvidia panel to avoid eyes strain caused by the excessive brightness.
> Probably you have already known that this model doesn't have PWM controller onboard. No PWM, no eyes strain, but we have got another side effects: just set the brightness to the minimum and look at you screen attentively, besides uneven backlight you can also notice some slightly yellish areas. Partly it is because of we have no PWN.
> In comparison to my old glossy NEC 20WGX2 S-IPS 6GTG CCFL:
> 1)the new one is totally huge
> 2)twice less reflections on glossy surface - nice!
> 3)launch my favorite game Arma 2 and play for a while...rather feel disappointment from the response time.
> 5 years old monitor faster than new one. Now I know what the ghosting is :-( However the new panel definitely increases
> the immersion effect of the game overall.
> Total: It's definitely worth for its money but it has some minor flaws.


Good review. What seller did you buy from?


----------



## Sfuor

*urliam* why do you think 20WGX2 faster? May be not enough GPU - CPU power for the same FPS, resolution higher.


----------



## digitalforce

Man, games look amazing on my Catleap and GTX 580... Battlefield 3 runs great, Trine 2 looks stunning. Amalur is like a dream, Crysis Warhead etc etc but NO MATTER WHAT I do, the Diablo III beta runs like crap. It's not lag but it feels like everything is in slow motion. I tried all different vsync settings and nothing makes a difference.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Good news, guys. bQvle has just confirmed OC models are going to be remade for a special edition OC.Net run!


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Does anyone know the length of the dual-link DVI cable? Is it at least 6' and of good quality?


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Does anyone know the length of the dual-link DVI cable? Is it at least 6' and of good quality?


I am using the 6' one from Monoprice.com and it works like a charm!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Does anyone know the length of the dual-link DVI cable? Is it at least 6' and of good quality?


It is not 6' - mine was closer to 4' on the first and almost 5' on the second (no idea why I received different cable lengths) and the cables are hit and miss.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Got my monitors today, all I can say is the picture quality looks better than my Hazro 30" and very little screen glare unlike the Hazro.. I've checked them all for dead pixels etc but can't find any faults.
> 
> Going to try de-bezel them this weekend and use in portrait mode..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was going to build a custom stand for 3 in portrait mode for a friend, but Houston we have a slight problem. The panels are super slim and the mounting points would make these real tight to each other, EXCEPT, there is the 1/2" or so LED bottom on these screens so while 2 would be nice and tight, the third would have an awkward distance if you didn't overlap it.
> 
> From what I can tell by placing his three up in my little jig I made there is no way to solve this issue so he is going with a different setup. He didn't like how the third would overlap and kill the smoothness of the screens in the arc. Of course I told him we could increase the gaps, but he loved them so close that having the larger gap killed it. Fine by me - less work!
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Hi yeah I noticed this before I got them, I just hope when I remove the bezel it will be the same size on all four corners.. If no back to landscape..
> 
> I will post pictures when done.
Click to expand...

The panel is not the same size all the way around - that is the problem. It really isn't a problem if you don't mind creating a 1/2" bezel for these. That would cut the bezel width in half for three sides and chop 1" off the bottom. However, as constructed I could not figure out how to mod the stock panel case to shave the bezels - I was going to do one out of aluminum.


----------



## hyp36rmax

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Darn, just realized my 680 wont be able to support 3 of these. I might get one then two 20" monitors in portrait.


Why cant you use three of these?


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hyp36rmax*
> 
> Why cant you use three of these?


Only 2 Dual-Link DVI ports. Could get a Multi-Input monitor for your 3rd one. Or just a DP to Dual-Link DVI adapter for around $100 or however much they go for. It's doable. But I haven't played around with higher refresh rates through a DP --> DL-DVI converter.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I've heard some of the Multi inputs can still be OC'd, but they also have a bit more input lag (though I haven't heard anyone mention they can tell the difference)


From what I've seen/read, it looked to me like the multi-input versions might take higher refresh rates at the inputs but that they'd just frame-drop due to their scalers (this matches up with my expectations). If you're interested in high refresh rate the multi-input models are not a good choice.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> From what I've seen/read, it looked to me like the multi-input versions might take higher refresh rates at the inputs but that they'd just frame-drop due to their scalers (this matches up with my expectations). If you're interested in high refresh rate the multi-input models are not a good choice.


I hadn't heard about anything like that happening man. One guy had that issue a day or two ago and I told him to uninstall his crap like rivatuner/etc...and redo my OC guide. He didn't believe me at first but later posted that after uninstalling riva tuner, he is now running at 100hz without the skip issues. So it reaffirms my beliefs in the Multi-Input monitors! With the exception of the 2x-3x higher expected input lag.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I hadn't heard about anything like that happening man. One guy had that issue a day or two ago and I told him to uninstall his crap like rivatuner/etc...and redo my OC guide. He didn't believe me at first but later posted that after uninstalling riva tuner, he is now running at 100hz without the skip issues. So it reaffirms my beliefs in the Multi-Input monitors! With the exception of the 2x-3x higher expected input lag.


Fair enough; I think that's the only actual mention I'd seen of somebody trying it, so if his is working properly then maybe it does work


----------



## Crezzlin

Has anyone run 3 off them in eyefinity yet witth DP to DVI-D power adaptors.. Thanks


----------



## davejsb

I received my Catleap today. It's a pixel perfect 2b.

Haven't had time to try to overclock it yet. It's a stunning monitor.

It also seems like the pixel perfect ones are the remaining 2b's.


----------



## JumboShrimp

has anyone tried to best offer the sellers? if so what offer did you have success at? you think they would send a lemon if I did best offer? lol


----------



## mystigiandoll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> The panel is not the same size all the way around - that is the problem. It really isn't a problem if you don't mind creating a 1/2" bezel for these. That would cut the bezel width in half for three sides and chop 1" off the bottom. However, as constructed I could not figure out how to mod the stock panel case to shave the bezels - I was going to do one out of aluminum.


Interesting..I would have thought like most any other panel once you remove the bezel you would be seeing a metal inner bezel that is even all the way around with perhaps the input buttons hanging off. Regardless, keep us posted Crezzlin as I was hoping to do something similar (3 portrait).


----------



## Crezzlin

i will do, im going to try this on Friday so will put some pics on, i did it with my HannsG monitors but the TN panels just go dark when viewing on different angles..


----------



## KenJit

Purchased a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE from pcsamsungmall @ 4 AM this morning. I sent him an e-mail asking if the model I would be receiving was without speakers / tempered glass. He responded promptly saying Yes, but no contact / tracking information has been sent out to me yet. Got my gtx 680 hydro copper just aching to test this bad boy out! Can't wait

Also, you guys are doing amazing things on these forums, glad to be here and sorry it took me so long to actually register and contribute.


----------



## Djankie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Has anyone run 3 off them in eyefinity yet witth DP to DVI-D power adaptors.. Thanks


With these monitors you will need 2 more active adapters which are approx 100 dollar a piece. I ordered one but mine was dead on arrival. Have sent it back, going to get another adapter next week or so. I have this monitor for 3 weeks now, but haven't even used it for longer than 1 hours.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> With these monitors you will need 2 more active adapters which are approx 100 dollar a piece. I ordered one but mine was dead on arrival. Have sent it back, going to get another adapter next week or so. I have this monitor for 3 weeks now, but haven't even used it for longer than 1 hours.


Thanks i have 2 active adapters on order should have them tomo, thats bad news about yours hope you get a replacement ok


----------



## eternal7trance

So I got the new DVI dual link adapter and now all I get is a lit screen but it's blank. Any suggestions?


----------



## alamone

Once I get around to setting up the 3rd one, I can test out Nvidia surround with 3 catleaps,
although one of them is going to be missing the bezel because I can't seem to pry the glass
off, it's glued on there pretty strong.


----------



## DrunkenLizard

could I run two of these off a 570 sli setup or am I dreaming?


----------



## Goodfella

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> So I got the new DVI dual link adapter and now all I get is a lit screen but it's blank. Any suggestions?


Have you tried taking the monitor apart to check for loose connectors?


----------



## One Arm

Hi I have the Yamakasi Catleap SE 2C version. when I play Guildwars, I am getting 135-165 fps. Is this correct? I also notice that it reverts to 60 fps sometimes as I play. But most times it wil remain at 100+fps. My setting is set to 65hz using a MSI Talon Hawk 460.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *One Arm*
> 
> Hi I have the Yamakasi Catleap SE 2C version. when I play Guildwars, I am getting 135-165 fps. Is this correct? I also notice that it reverts to 60 fps sometimes as I play. But most times it wil remain at 100+fps. My setting is set to 65hz using a MSI Talon Hawk 460.


Setting the refresh rate of your monitor will not limit the frames that your GPU renders, for that you will have to use some form of vsync (found in the games video settings) or a frame limiter/target.


----------



## bjgrenke

How will my single 680 do with one of these in games? Should I be expecting ultra in BF3 and Skyrim? Also what's the best seller to buy from? I don't want speakers or perfect pixel.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> I received my Catleap today. It's a pixel perfect 2b.
> 
> Haven't had time to try to overclock it yet. It's a stunning monitor.
> 
> It also seems like the pixel perfect ones are the remaining 2b's.


Who did you order from?


----------



## eternal7trance

Well it's official. My catleap isn't working anymore. All I get is a lit up blank screen. I opened it and all the connections were fine. I tried a new DVI dual link cord and got the same thing. Time to get in touch with the guy I got it from.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urliam*
> 
> Just got mine. I had been waiting it for 2 weeks almost! I read here that somebody in USA got theirs in 36-48 hours after placing the order. It's incredible crazy fast delivery, I guess my screen was being carried by hands all the way long, however it's Russian EMS service. I bought mine from dream seller, the original box was just wrapped in 2 layers of air bubble film. It's 2C of course. Good news: no damage, no dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleeding, no green tint, no taxes. Bad news: there are two tiny spots (2-3 pixel size) just under the central area of the screen. Does anybody have anything like that? My display is non tempered glass so the spots are apparently on the inner layers of the screen. I can distinguish them only on a white background. I have to get used to not seeing them. The second bad news that the screen has a noticeable uneven backlight on the minimal level of brightness. The left half of the the screen is more dimmer than the right one. Increasing the brightness on 2-3 steps eliminates the difference. AFAIK each Catleap has this flaw. In my case it is not as bad as on that pic posted here before http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6d/600x450px-LL-6d1bb4a7_Snapshot_20120404.jpeg
> Nevertheless it's noticeable and I hate that. I know there is a way to get rid of it but my soldering skills are almost zero. I have to increase the brightness on the screen till to the level when the blacklight becomes even and then I just reduce the brightness via nvidia panel to avoid eyes strain caused by the excessive brightness.
> Probably you have already known that this model doesn't have PWM controller onboard. No PWM, no eyes strain, but we have got another side effects: just set the brightness to the minimum and look at you screen attentively, besides uneven backlight you can also notice some slightly yellish areas. Partly it is because of we have no PWN.
> In comparison to my old glossy NEC 20WGX2 S-IPS 6GTG CCFL:
> 1)the new one is totally huge
> 2)twice less reflections on glossy surface - nice!
> 3)launch my favorite game Arma 2 and play for a while...rather feel disappointment from the response time.
> 5 years old monitor faster than new one. Now I know what the ghosting is :-( However the new panel definitely increases
> the immersion effect of the game overall.
> Total: It's definitely worth for its money but it has some minor flaws.


Even if it doesn't use PWM it still flickers. See here.

The spots on the non-tempered model appear to be from dust between the LCD and diffuser sheets. It is possible to remove them by disassembling the display (I did it), but unless you're working in a clean room it's very hard to keep new dust out.


----------



## KenJit

I asked DCSamsung if he has any 2A or 2B models left, he says he has none. He still hasn't sent me any tracking info but has been answering my questions . . .


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Who did you order from?


I got a "Perfect Pixel" unit from bigclothcraft


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> Even if it doesn't use PWM it still flickers. See here.


My current guess (although I haven't gotten around to scoping it) is that what I was assuming was an analog pin coming from the microcontroller is in fact a digital I/O that they're PWMing for brightness control. Unlike an *actual* PWM backlight though (this one is a boost converter) where intermediate values are Bad Stuff (tm) because the transistors are designed to switch on and off only, the point where this signal comes in to the circuit means that there's no reason it couldn't be fed with an analog voltage instead (eliminating flicker). The nominal design appears to include a big fat capacitor (47uF) on this brightness control line, which I think is what's minimizing the on/off switching you'd normally see.

I'll be looking in to it further, but if these assumptions are correct it should be possible to eliminate or reduce further the already limited flicker by increasing the size of this capacitor (at the expense of increased time for the monitor to change brightness values; big deal) or by replacing the brightness control with an analog potentiometer. I'll report back once I've investigated further.


----------



## DrJimmy

Hi all,

I plan on getting one of these monitors soon and I have a question about resolution. Are these monitors fixed at 2560x1440 or can you go lower to say 1600x1200?

Thanks,


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJimmy*
> 
> Hi all,
> I plan on getting one of these monitors soon and I have a question about resolution. Are these monitors fixed at 2560x1440 or can you go lower to say 1600x1200?
> Thanks,


They don't have a built-in scaler (except for very low resolutions, like DOS mode), so your graphics card will need to do the legwork for this - assuming you have something decent it's entirely possible so long as your graphics card does the scaling.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> How will my single 680 do with one of these in games? Should I be expecting ultra in BF3 and Skyrim? Also what's the best seller to buy from? I don't want speakers or perfect pixel.


single gtx 680, depending on your cpu, will do bf3 maxed out with some tweaking at roughly 50-70fps. Which is good for a 60hz monitor.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> single gtx 680, depending on your cpu, will do bf3 maxed out with some tweaking at roughly 50-70fps. Which is good for a 60hz monitor.


That's good enough for me







Thanks. I'm waiting to see what happens with that 100hz OCN order thing first. If the price is okay I might get in on that.


----------



## KenJit

Just got my tracking info, will update on model type when I receive my package


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenJit*
> 
> Purchased a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE from pcsamsungmall @ 4 AM this morning. I sent him an e-mail asking if the model I would be receiving was without speakers / tempered glass. He responded promptly saying Yes, but no contact / tracking information has been sent out to me yet. Got my gtx 680 hydro copper just aching to test this bad boy out! Can't wait
> Also, you guys are doing amazing things on these forums, glad to be here and sorry it took me so long to actually register and contribute.


I also ordered about the same time you did from dcsamsungmall. I just got my tracking info from fedex directly about an hour ago. Estimated delivery on monday!


----------



## alamone

Just tested my 2nd 2B SE - this one goes to 120hz no problem!
So I guess it's just depending on the particular PCB you get.


----------



## alamone

For some reason Nvidia surround does not work.
I thought a single GTX 680 was all you needed for three monitor surround?
I set all the monitors to 60hz, landscape, 2560x1440, but no dice.
The third monitor is connected using an active DP adapter.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alamone*
> 
> For some reason Nvidia surround does not work.
> I thought a single GTX 680 was all you needed for three monitor surround?
> I set all the monitors to 60hz, landscape, 2560x1440, but no dice.
> The third monitor is connected using an active DP adapter.


Do 2 of them work when plugged in to just the DL-DVI ports? And if so, when you plug in the 3rd monitor with the active DP adapter, do the first 2 still work? Or do they all go offline? Any details would be handy!


----------



## alamone

Edit - fixed, I had to do a clean re-install of the Nvidia drivers, guess they were getting too much cruft from updates.


Here they are running the PSO2 benchmark.


----------



## Gabriel7

Hello,
I am happy to join such a great site and forum.
After tons of reading and hours of searching,I manage to found and buy one Q270SE2B1xxxx monitor from ebay.
I have an GTX580. I think that I have the correct board that will give 120hz.


----------



## TheJesus

For those interested in my endeavors on AMD's support of 2560x1440 @ 120Hz, here is the latest response which made me actually laugh.

_Response and Service Request History:

I am sorry for the delay in the response, this case has been sent for testing, and we are trying to obtain a DisplayPort monitor that supports 2560x1440 resolution at 120Hz.

Once our support team has tested this we will provide you with the results.

In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.

Best regards,

AMD Global Customer Care_


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabriel7*
> 
> Hello,
> I am happy to join such a great site and forum.
> After tons of reading and hours of searching,I manage to found and buy one Q270SE2B1xxxx monitor from ebay.
> I have an GTX580. I think that I have the correct board that will give 120hz.


Your monitor will, but the GTX 580 is only capable of about 97hz-101hz. You'll need a GTX 680 to hit 120hz+


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> For those interested in my endeavors on AMD's support of 2560x1440 @ 120Hz, here is the latest response which made me actually laugh.
> _Response and Service Request History:
> I am sorry for the delay in the response, this case has been sent for testing, and we are trying to obtain a DisplayPort monitor that supports 2560x1440 resolution at 120Hz.
> _


Reply with: "Head to overclock.net, I hear they've got plenty







Of course, you'll have to separate them from under the clamped hands of their owners..."

TBH, I'd prefer using an AMD/ATI card for the monitor just for the dithering (Video quality you know, and combined with madVR =







); but without the ability to go past 100hz it won't be possible for video FPS to match screen refresh rate. [No, 24,48,72,96 are not good enough - 120Hz only







]


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> Reply with: "Head to overclock.net, I hear they've got plenty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Of course, you'll have to separate them from under the clamped hands of their owners..."
> TBH, I'd prefer using an AMD/ATI card for the monitor just for the dithering (Video quality you know, and combined with madVR =
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ); but without the ability to go past 100hz it won't be possible for video FPS to match screen refresh rate. [No, 24,48,72,96 are not good enough - 120Hz only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


What dithering issues are you referring to? And you should look at installing the smooth video project. It'll interpolate on the fly in various players and match the video playback rate to your refresh rate in your favourite video players.


----------



## Gabriel7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Your monitor will, but the GTX 580 is only capable of about 97hz-101hz. You'll need a GTX 680 to hit 120hz+


I haven't noticed that.
I thought that Radeons are maxxed out at 85Hz and High end Nvidia would achieve 120Hz.
Is there any other model apart from GTX680 that can achieve 120Hz?
Thanks in advance.


----------



## punanigod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabriel7*
> 
> I haven't noticed that.
> I thought that Radeons are maxxed out at 85Hz and High end Nvidia would achieve 120Hz.
> Is there any other model apart from GTX680 that can achieve 120Hz?
> Thanks in advance.


no, not stably
please search and read through previous posts and keeping this thread moving forwards.
I find it somewhat annoying that some narcissistic people decide their time is more precious than everyone who reads their posts derived from laziness.
Not everyone wants to reread the same questions and answers, lets move forward as a whole please.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabriel7*
> 
> I haven't noticed that.
> I thought that Radeons are maxxed out at 85Hz and High end Nvidia would achieve 120Hz.
> Is there any other model apart from GTX680 that can achieve 120Hz?
> Thanks in advance.


Other than potentially their quadro lineup, no other ones can do 120hz. Here's the:

AMD OC guide: 



105hz (maximum) Confirmation: 




Nvidia OC Guide: 



124hz Confirmation: 




I've hit up to 135hz but it's not stable after the 125hz mark. This is all on a GTX 680 though. Nothing else. All non-gtx 680 amd/nvidia cards "should" be able to hit at least 97hz, with a cap of around 102hz for Nvidia and 105hz for AMD with tweaking, and variables in the cards themselves.


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Good review. What seller did you buy from?


Thanks. Sorry for the delay in the response but better late than never: my seller is dream-seller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfuor*
> 
> *urliam* why do you think 20WGX2 faster? May be not enough GPU - CPU power for the same FPS, resolution higher.


The same scene in the game, the same rigs (i72600k z68 8GbRAM 570gtx) - FRAPS shows 60 fps in the both case. I can tell the difference in the response time between NEC and Catleap. The last one is not bad, but the old one, in my subjective opinion, faster. Maybe it's because of the Nec has an overdrive=on panel by default unlike Catleap.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> Even if it doesn't use PWM it still flickers. See here.
> The spots on the non-tempered model appear to be from dust between the LCD and diffuser sheets. It is possible to remove them by disassembling the display (I did it), but unless you're working in a clean room it's very hard to keep new dust out.


Thanks for the information but I hardly ever dare to disassemble the display because I am afraid of getting worse.I mean the best is the enemy of the good. The spots are really small and it's simple to ignore them. I think if I had hot pixels it would upset me more.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gabriel7*
> 
> Is there any other model apart from GTX680 that can achieve 120Hz?


It's the only confirmed one. There could potentially be others (other nVidia 6-series cards down the road, for example) but we don't know of any currently.


----------



## davejsb

Catleap Model/Serial - Catleap "Perfect Pixel" 2B, no speakers, no glass.
Graphics Card - AMD 7850 2GB
Method of Forcing Refresh Rate - CRU
Refresh Rate Achieved - 82hz
Purchased From - bigclothcraft

None of the custom timings I export with CRU above 82hz display in the change resolution advanced dialogue. So I guess 82hz is the max!


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Catleap Model/Serial - Catleap "Perfect Pixel" 2B, no speakers, no glass.
> Graphics Card - AMD 7850 2GB
> Method of Forcing Refresh Rate - CRU
> Refresh Rate Achieved - 82hz
> Purchased From - bigclothcraft
> 
> None of the custom timings I export with CRU above 82hz display in the change resolution advanced dialogue. So I guess 82hz is the max!


I wish I had a 7000 series card to test with. I did mine with a 6970 and that card was supported by power strip which let me do on the fly adjustments.

Out of curiosity, did you Install the monitor driver from my video and reboot the computer? Did you uncheck the "hide modes your monitor can't display" box? And after exporting the resolutions, and unplugging or rebooting your computer, if it still doesn't show up there, does it show up as an available refresh rate in power strips display configuration page (the slide bar on the right)?

Cru, in my opinion, is very finicky. You'll have to keep playing around with it. But you should be able to get at least 97hz. I will look at alternate methods later if you had no luck.


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I wish I had a 7000 series card to test with. I did mine with a 6970 and that card was supported by power strip which let me do on the fly adjustments.
> Out of curiosity, did you Install the monitor driver from my video and reboot the computer? Did you uncheck the "hide modes your monitor can't display" box? And after exporting the resolutions, and unplugging or rebooting your computer, if it still doesn't show up there, does it show up as an available refresh rate in power strips display configuration page (the slide bar on the right)?
> Cru, in my opinion, is very finicky. You'll have to keep playing around with it. But you should be able to get at least 97hz. I will look at alternate methods later if you had no luck.


Hi Hyper, I did use your excellent video. Thanks very much for doing it, very much appreciated









I now can get the 85Hz showing up after tinkering with some of the other timings within CRU as ToastyX suggested , but when I select it I black-screen. Perhaps it's these other timings to blame....


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Hi Hyper, I did use your excellent video. Thanks very much for doing it, very much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now can get the 85Hz showing up after tinkering with some of the other timings within CRU as ToastyX suggested , but when I select it I black-screen. Perhaps it's these other timings to blame....


My understanding is that it's the total pixel clock listed in CRU that's causing the profiles to not show up when they're too high; you can get to about 81-82 without cutting down timings and keep the pixel clock under the 330MHz limit (I believe is what it is), but you'd need to narrow down the timings to get higher while staying under 330. This works, but it seems that each monitor is a bit different and you'll need to experiment dropping one value at a time to see what minimums you can set and still get the monitor to sync.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I wish I had a 7000 series card to test with. I did mine with a 6970 and that card was supported by power strip which let me do on the fly adjustments.
> Out of curiosity, did you Install the monitor driver from my video and reboot the computer? Did you uncheck the "hide modes your monitor can't display" box? And after exporting the resolutions, and unplugging or rebooting your computer, if it still doesn't show up there, does it show up as an available refresh rate in power strips display configuration page (the slide bar on the right)?
> Cru, in my opinion, is very finicky. You'll have to keep playing around with it. But you should be able to get at least 97hz. I will look at alternate methods later if you had no luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Hi Hyper, I did use your excellent video. Thanks very much for doing it, very much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I now can get the 85Hz showing up after tinkering with some of the other timings within CRU as ToastyX suggested , but when I select it I black-screen. Perhaps it's these other timings to blame....
Click to expand...

Problem is changing timings still keeps you at 330mhz pixel clock. So we're not fixing the bigger issue. For some reason the video driver thinks it can't go over 330mhz. Did you try my suggestions in the previous post including double checking in power strip?

I will also look into this further later today.


----------



## davejsb

Thanks to both of you for your help









I am using your custom driver btw Hyper, and the higher rates are available in the slider in Powerstrip. But when selected they black screen.

Also, the real time adjustment section of Powerstrip has no effect either. It won't let me change any of the values; when I try they just jump back to my current ones.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Thanks to both of you for your help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am using your custom driver btw Hyper, and the higher rates are available in the slider in Powerstrip. But when selected they black screen.
> Also, the real time adjustment section of Powerstrip has no effect either. It won't let me change any of the values; when I try they just jump back to my current ones.


you mean the 99hz one, for example, shows up as an option in powerstrip? and if so, did you try reverting all others like front/back porch and sync width to the same settings as you have at stock 60hz, and the just set the pixel clock to 400mhz and export that, and see if you can pick it it up in powerstrip.


----------



## eternal7trance

I'm still waiting on dcsamsungmall to reply to me about my dead monitor.


----------



## Whitespider999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> I'm still waiting on dcsamsungmall to reply to me about my dead monitor.


Sorry about that. Hope you get it replaced. DOA is unacceptable by every standard.


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> you mean the 99hz one, for example, shows up as an option in powerstrip? and if so, did you try reverting all others like front/back porch and sync width to the same settings as you have at stock 60hz, and the just set the pixel clock to 400mhz and export that, and see if you can pick it it up in powerstrip.


The 99Hz one won't show - but the 85Hz one will. Still black screens though.


----------



## Neo Mike

Do you guys have any problem with this monitor seeing the computer bios screen at bootup ?


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> Do you guys have any problem with this monitor seeing the computer bios screen at bootup ?


None at all with my AMD 7850.

The AMD 5770 I had before that was fine too.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I wish I had a 7000 series card to test with. I did mine with a 6970 and that card was supported by power strip which let me do on the fly adjustments.
> Out of curiosity, did you Install the monitor driver from my video and reboot the computer? Did you uncheck the "hide modes your monitor can't display" box? And after exporting the resolutions, and unplugging or rebooting your computer, if it still doesn't show up there, does it show up as an available refresh rate in power strips display configuration page (the slide bar on the right)?
> Cru, in my opinion, is very finicky. You'll have to keep playing around with it. But you should be able to get at least 97hz. I will look at alternate methods later if you had no luck.


Hyper,

I just did some calculations based upon the DVI spec here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface

From what I can tell the maximum theoretical limit of 2560x1440 at 24bit is 90fps over 9.9gbps DVI-D dual link.

Did you see any degradation or screen tearing? I looked at your youtube videos but couldn't really see anything. Have you investigated this yourself?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Hyper,
> I just did some calculations based upon the DVI spec here:
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface
> From what I can tell the maximum theoretical limit of 2560x1440 at 24bit is 90fps over 9.9gbps DVI-D dual link.
> Did you see any degradation or screen tearing? I looked at your youtube videos but couldn't really see anything. Have you investigated this yourself?


What numbers did you use to get 9.9 gbps? Wikipedia doesn't actually give any numbers that give a maximum bandwidth for DL-DVI. I checked the actualy DVI spec sheets, and they don't either.


----------



## insider

Anybody got 3D Vision to work yet?


----------



## Crezzlin

whats the best way to take the stupid silcer cover off the back to use the vesa? also do you need to remove the bezel to remove the stand arm? Thanks


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> whats the best way to take the stupid silcer cover off the back to use the vesa? also do you need to remove the bezel to remove the stand arm? Thanks


The "best" way is to disassemble the monitor (there should be a guide in the OP) - the stand and arc cover can then be removed properly from the inside. The lazy way would be to just break the stupid piece of plastic off


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insider*
> 
> Anybody got 3D Vision to work yet?


No, the driver for the monitor has to be certified for it, so there isn't much of a hope.


----------



## Ross211

I got my Catleap today (2 days from South Korea to Kansas via FedEx - dcsamsungmall was the seller). FedEx missed delivery at 1:45 PM today but I was able to get them to come back and try a second deliver. I was amazed, they were back at my door within an hour with the Catleap. I called their customer support and was able to talk to someone right away - I had the option of driving to the nearest FedEx warehouse but they mentioned they could put in a request to try delivery again today. I was skeptical but they showed back up fast and it made my day.

I replaced the stock DVI cable with a different dual link DVI cable from a local PC shop today. I have one light green pixel that shows up only on a black screen. I've looked for dead pixels using UDPixel and can't seem to find any other than the light green one visible on a full black screen. Does this mean this pixel is a stuck pixel and not a dead pixel ?

I'm definitely going to replace the stand, probably with an Ergotron Neoflex.

Here's some photos of the Catleap - Looking at code in Notepad++ is great in this res I can't wait for some BF3 later.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I wish I had a 7000 series card to test with. I did mine with a 6970 and that card was supported by power strip which let me do on the fly adjustments.
> Out of curiosity, did you Install the monitor driver from my video and reboot the computer? Did you uncheck the "hide modes your monitor can't display" box? And after exporting the resolutions, and unplugging or rebooting your computer, if it still doesn't show up there, does it show up as an available refresh rate in power strips display configuration page (the slide bar on the right)?
> Cru, in my opinion, is very finicky. You'll have to keep playing around with it. But you should be able to get at least 97hz. I will look at alternate methods later if you had no luck.
> 
> 
> 
> Hyper,
> 
> I just did some calculations based upon the DVI spec here:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface
> 
> From what I can tell the maximum theoretical limit of 2560x1440 at 24bit is 90fps over 9.9gbps DVI-D dual link.
> 
> Did you see any degradation or screen tearing? I looked at your youtube videos but couldn't really see anything. Have you investigated this yourself?
Click to expand...

9.9Gbps is the limit running at 330mhz. That doesn't take into account overhead. Meaning it'll be even lower than that. I've run mine at upto a 537mhz pixel clock, which would give out more than 16Gbps with the only limiting factor being potentially the copper used in the cable. I only start seeing that when I go between 126hz to 135hz refresh rates. 135hz is the highest not due to cable limitations but because I hit the 200khz mark on the horizontal refresh rate. So it's technically capable of higher bandwidth.

With tweaking, 120hz can run with just a 14.3Gbps bandwidth requirement which is more than acceptable and stable.


----------



## sfsilicon

Boo! 100HZ Catleap thread got locked. Sigh, I know that OC needs to make money and has a reputation to maintain, but just a month longer and we would have been done.


----------



## insider

Quote:


> No, the driver for the monitor has to be certified for it, so there isn't much of a hope.


Cant we use driver of some other monitor? Or maybe someone can modify 3D Vision somehow in order to delete monitor/driver check?

Also there is another shutter glasses systems except Nvidia's one. And iZ3D driver for it.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Boo! 100HZ Catleap thread got locked. Sigh, I know that OC needs to make money and has a reputation to maintain, but just a month longer and we would have been done.


More likely an issue of liability than strictly an issue of profit. What if the vendor takes real orders then disappears? Only place people have for recourse is OC.net... Potential for big legal issues.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insider*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> No, the driver for the monitor has to be certified for it, so there isn't much of a hope.
> 
> 
> 
> Cant we use driver of some other monitor? Or maybe someone can modify 3D Vision somehow in order to delete monitor/driver check?
> Also there is another shutter glasses systems except Nvidia's one. And iZ3D driver for it.
Click to expand...

Can't be done. The only card that can hit 120hz is the GTX 680. GTX 680 is also the only Nvidia card that CAN'T run the old forceware 285(or 286?) that allows manual monitor setup through CRT + Refresh Rate settings. I know because I bought a kit to test this out.







Including trying IZ3D and Tridef.


----------



## insider

Maybe we can get 3D at 1920x1080 resolution?


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Boo! 100HZ Catleap thread got locked. Sigh, I know that OC needs to make money and has a reputation to maintain, but just a month longer and we would have been done.
> 
> 
> 
> More likely an issue of liability than strictly an issue of profit. What if the vendor takes real orders then disappears? Only place people have for recourse is OC.net... Potential for big legal issues.
Click to expand...

Then perhaps they shouldn't have extended an offer today in said thread to potentially get involved. Between that thread wondering off and the original Davi thread doing the same, I'm left wondering which 2560x1440 thread is next . . .


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insider*
> 
> Maybe we can get 3D at 1920x1080 resolution?


That's not even remotely the issue. -_- Lol.


----------



## Phenrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urliam*
> 
> Just got mine. I had been waiting it for 2 weeks almost! I read here that somebody in USA got theirs in 36-48 hours after placing the order. It's incredible crazy fast delivery, I guess my screen was being carried by hands all the way long, however it's Russian EMS service. I bought mine from dream seller, the original box was just wrapped in 2 layers of air bubble film. It's 2C of course. Good news: no damage, no dead/stuck pixels, no backlight bleeding, no green tint, no taxes. Bad news: there are two tiny spots (2-3 pixel size) just under the central area of the screen. Does anybody have anything like that? My display is non tempered glass so the spots are apparently on the inner layers of the screen. I can distinguish them only on a white background. I have to get used to not seeing them. The second bad news that the screen has a noticeable uneven backlight on the minimal level of brightness. The left half of the the screen is more dimmer than the right one. Increasing the brightness on 2-3 steps eliminates the difference. AFAIK each Catleap has this flaw. In my case it is not as bad as on that pic posted here before http://cdn.overclock.net/6/6d/600x450px-LL-6d1bb4a7_Snapshot_20120404.jpeg
> Nevertheless it's noticeable and I hate that. I know there is a way to get rid of it but my soldering skills are almost zero. I have to increase the brightness on the screen till to the level when the blacklight becomes even and then I just reduce the brightness via nvidia panel to avoid eyes strain caused by the excessive brightness.
> Probably you have already known that this model doesn't have PWM controller onboard. No PWM, no eyes strain, but we have got another side effects: just set the brightness to the minimum and look at you screen attentively, besides uneven backlight you can also notice some slightly yellish areas. Partly it is because of we have no PWN.
> In comparison to my old glossy NEC 20WGX2 S-IPS 6GTG CCFL:
> 1)the new one is totally huge
> 2)twice less reflections on glossy surface - nice!
> 3)launch my favorite game Arma 2 and play for a while...rather feel disappointment from the response time.
> 5 years old monitor faster than new one. Now I know what the ghosting is :-( However the new panel definitely increases
> the immersion effect of the game overall.
> Total: It's definitely worth for its money but it has some minor flaws.


Does your monitor have speakers like mine? My 2C monitor you showed in the picture obviously has the same backlight issues, but it does NOT depend on brightness level. The right side of the screen is always dimmer at every brightness level. It would be interesting to know what PCB you have, because my monitor is a strange blue PCB that I haven't seen in anyone else's monitor


----------



## nemal101

Ordered mine yesterday, really really excited for it!


----------



## function

My monitor received few days ago, but I thing it has a problem. Monitor's left-down section darker than other sections..

Is it normal?



Thanks...


----------



## Phenrick

Yes that is normal, here is my monitor. Still waiting for the OC boards so someone can sell me a 60 Hz board with no backlight controller issues.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *function*
> 
> My monitor received few days ago, but I thing it has a problem. Monitor's left-down section darker than other sections..
> Is it normal?
> 
> Thanks...


Impossible to say cause the cameralight appears to be reflected in the monitor.


----------



## function

Is there any flash light when picture taked? Because there is very different brightness distribution on your monitor...


----------



## Phenrick

No, you can see in the picture that the walls are not illuminated by a flash. I used a low contrast and brightness setting on my laptop camera so that you can see unevenness more clearly. The brightness distribution is actually very similar, except I can see the individual LED bright spots on the bottom of yours.


----------



## function

There is no camera light. This seems what I see in my monitor..


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *function*
> 
> My monitor received few days ago, but I thing it has a problem. Monitor's left-down section darker than other sections..
> Is it normal?
> 
> Thanks...


Uhmm...it shouldn't be visible once the brightness is set to half-way or a little more. I took a picture at minimum brightness, and then one at 14 clicks upwards.


----------



## Phenrick

I took 3 new picture: 1 with minimum brightness, 1 with roughly half brightness, and 1 with full brightness. I used auto exposure settings this time, and the pictures accurately reflect what I saw. There is still imbalance at all brightness levels.

EDIT: corrected with auto exposure


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Minimum monitor brightness (low exposure):


Half monitor brightness (low exposure):


Full monitor brightness (low exposure):


Minimum monitor brightness (auto exposure):


Half monitor brightness (auto exposure)


Full monitor brightness (auto exposure)


----------



## Shozzking

How many people have seen issues with their monitors dying on them? I'm on the fence with getting one of these but the lack of warranty makes me really hesitant.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shozzking*
> 
> How many people have seen issues with their monitors dying on them? I'm on the fence with getting one of these but the lack of warranty makes me really hesitant.


None so far.

The one who has complained (around 5 percent of the costumers) has got a faulty panel from start.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shozzking*
> 
> How many people have seen issues with their monitors dying on them? I'm on the fence with getting one of these but the lack of warranty makes me really hesitant.


I think almost all issues come up within the first 1-2 weeks, and most sellers (including one I purchased from) have a 2 week return/exchange policy. So I don't think anyone here was ever stuck with a monitor issue that the seller was unwilling to resolve. The most you'll be out is the shipping cost to send it back. And if you're worried, buy the squaretrade warranty that comes up as an option on eBay.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I took 3 new picture: 1 with minimum brightness, 1 with roughly half brightness, and 1 with full brightness. I used auto exposure settings this time, and the pictures accurately reflect what I saw. There is still imbalance at all brightness levels.
> Minimum brightness:


Maybe it's just me but I'm having trouble figuring out what you're referring to. I'm guessing you're using a 3mp cellphone camera?


----------



## Phenrick

I used a 0.3MP laptop camera. The normal camera settings look correct but at max monitor brightness on auto settings you can see the white levels maxing out slightly. The brightness descriptors above the pictures refer to the monitor brightness setting.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> I think almost all issues come up within the first 1-2 weeks, and most sellers (including one I purchased from) have a 2 week return/exchange policy. So I don't think anyone here was ever stuck with a monitor issue that the seller was unwilling to resolve. The most you'll be out is the shipping cost to send it back. And if you're worried, buy the squaretrade warranty that comes up as an option on eBay.


Mine is still unresolved. I'm still waiting on the seller to respond back to me from several days ago.


----------



## Swolern

Whats up guys. Im looking at putting 3 Catleap monitors together for a Eyefinity/Surround gaming setup. Im either going with 680SLI 4gb or 7970CF 3gb. I noticed the Catleap only has 1 DVI input. Will i have any issues with connection? Also bezels kill me. Anyone remove the bezels for a surround setup? Thanks.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Swolern*
> 
> Whats up guys. Im looking at putting 3 Catleap monitors together for a Eyefinity/Surround gaming setup. Im either going with 680SLI 4gb or 7970CF 3gb. I noticed the Catleap only has 1 DVI input. Will i have any issues with connection? Also bezels kill me. Anyone remove the bezels for a surround setup? Thanks.


http://www.galaxytech.com/__en_gb__/Landingpage/3Dsurround.html

That explains 680. You would just use 2 680s and plug the first two monitors in the DVI's on the first card and the third monitor into the second card.

As for 7970CF, you would need two powered active miniDP to DL-DVI adapters (~$90-100 each). Then just plug it all into one card.

Can this be added to OP possibly?


----------



## Swolern

Man $200 more to go with the 7970s. Looks like im going to have to hold out until the 680 4gb release. Hope it doesnt take to long. Im getting trigger happy. The info is much appreciated Thejesus







Repped


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> What dithering issues are you referring to? And you should look at installing the smooth video project. It'll interpolate on the fly in various players and match the video playback rate to your refresh rate in your favourite video players.


I use reclock ATM, but will look into it.

The dithering issues are presented here -
Quote:


> > > From: Nikolay Pokhilchenko
> > > Subject: [argyllcms] Graphics card
> > > Date: Sun, 27 Feb 2011 12:20:19 +0300
> > >
> > > [off]
> > > As far as I know, ATI cards are performing the dithering when go from the
> > high bit depth to lower. For example, ATI do the spacial and temporary
> > dithering from 10-bit linearization curves to 8bit DVI/HDMI. The Nvidia
> > usually not.
> > > So, often it's impossible to use the display calibration on Nvidia because
> > there is 8 bit interface (DVI/HDMI) between the 2D LUT and the interface. The
> > banding is occurs.
> > > Users had to change the graphic adapters from Nvidia to ATI because ATI's
> > dithering eliminates banding.
> > > If adapter and display have DisplayPort interface both, There is no problem
> > with Nvidia (I suppose) because of 10-bit depth of DisplayPort interface. In
> > this case the dithering is done in the display by it's own processor.
> > [/off]


But these monitors without the scaler/OSD don't do dithering in the monitor and is done by GPU. It's to solve banding issues - especially noticeable in darker scenes. Also ATI cards can hold the calibrated color ICC via the LUT Loader. The issue with nvidia is also mentioned in the first post of the thread under color calibration.

Smooth gradients = Happy otaku









Now if only AMD could hit 120Hz... then everything would be near perfect (get 2B monitors guaranteed and have some 3D = eyegasm paradise







)


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> No, the driver for the monitor has to be certified for it, so there isn't much of a hope.


Until the monitors become a enthusiast favourite and 500+ threads are opened on nvidia (and maybe) AMD's forums. Then they might possibly become certified









Or nvidia 'accidentally' allows it on their non certified BETA drivers... or some driver modders get around to it... or someone pulls this off for a 27" monitor - http://www.mtbs3d.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=55961 and we go using parallax barrier tech - no glasses but prone to alignment issues, plus tearing issues (although the refresh rate should help solve this), and PRINTING 100+ times before nailing it.

Of course, all we need is someone with a high end industrial printer with the exact settings and testing done, and print off enough transparent film for the parallax method and we should be set for LIFE







.

Although then you are restricted in how you sit (to get the best effect, plus 27" isn't an ideal size for the technique, although doable)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> I took 3 new picture: 1 with minimum brightness, 1 with roughly half brightness, and 1 with full brightness. I used auto exposure settings this time, and the pictures accurately reflect what I saw. There is still imbalance at all brightness levels.


Its a problem with the LG panels in the first place. There's a problem with the LED array and how it was designed (or something like that) - there is a solution (but it's in Russian; there's an English guide but I dunno who has attempted it yet and succeeded... or failed)

BTW - these korean IPS monitors are the montior equivalent of the geforce 8800GT on launch - an enthusiast paradise... and to this date still not truly obsolete (OC'd, just turn down the AA, and no DX10; otherwise its all good).


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Racer J*
> 
> Then perhaps they shouldn't have extended an offer today in said thread to potentially get involved. Between that thread wondering off and the original Davi thread doing the same, I'm left wondering which 2560x1440 thread is next . . .


It's like OC.net owns a house, and we're all in it when we post. Someone's proposing selling something... OC.net needs to know what it is, and make sure it isn't illegal. Because if something goes wrong with it, it's their fault. If they do, at least they can do their checks to make sure it's something legal and not something that will blow up in their faces. Even if they don't know about it, they'll catch a lot of flak if something goes wrong.

If any thread is "next", then it'd be this one, what with the discussion of procurement of the "120hz" capable boards. And even then it'd probably be more like the excision of ebay links that occured earlier. Right now, it's quite technical, and not at all business, therefore I doubt there's any cause for concern.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> You haven't read much about these monitors yet, have you?


Not really lol. I know they are IPS which I know is the best type of LCD panel you can get (I am using an IPS LG TV right now) and I know they are from Korea (Not sure if North or South but I'm guessing that it is most likely South)


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Not really lol. I know they are IPS which I know is the best type of LCD panel you can get (I am using an IPS LG TV right now) and I know they are from Korea (Not sure if North or South but I'm guessing that it is most likely South)


If it were North it would've come with free corn (yes, I'm serious, also some food stamps, only redeemable in North Korea









All you have to know is that these monitors are excellent value for money, can run 100Hz+ in some circumstances and are among the least (input) laggy IPS monitors you can get. and then read the entire first post (there's some lag before the spoiler tags work though FYI if you're on a slow connection). Also the Acheiva thread (the original thread) has more info in the first post as well.


----------



## DrSmoke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrews2547*
> 
> Not really lol. I know they are IPS which I know is the best type of LCD panel you can get (I am using an IPS LG TV right now) and I know they are from Korea (Not sure if North or South but I'm guessing that it is most likely South)


Maybe you should just read the first page....


----------



## Mr Pixel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> It's like OC.net owns a house, and we're all in it when we post. Someone's proposing selling something... OC.net needs to know what it is, and make sure it isn't illegal. *Because if something goes wrong with it, it's their fault.* If they do, at least they can do their checks to make sure it's something legal and not something that will blow up in their faces. Even if they don't know about it, they'll catch a lot of flak if something goes wrong.


According to the forum terms "You agree that no legal action, past, present or future, will be taken against Overclock.net in relation to your dealings with the site or people on the site". (terms of service)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> In the interest of keeping everyone informed, now that we're aware of this discussion, we're currently making an effort to get in touch with the manufacturer for one of two possible scenarios which would allow sale of these monitors through the forums.
> 1) The seller joins the Vendor Partner program
> 2) We explore a hardware partner relationship much like we have with Ducky for mechanical keyboards


I was unable to find information about your partner programs. Hopefully your contacting them directly does not scare the manufacturers away from making these available, and also to people outside ocn. Doing this does seem to violate your site usage terms: "*All deals* conducted in the For Sale section, *any other area within Overclock.net* or with Overclock.net users via any other means are solely between the participants. *Overclock.net is not responsible and will not get involved.*" (terms of service)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> There are several questions to be answered (in the interest of making sure members don't get burned) before we would allow either of those, and these are also things we'd encourage you to be thinking about if you explore buying regardless of whether or not a purchase program is implemented officially with OCN. Is there a warranty? Who handles warranty work? Who pays for it? How are dead pixels handled? Are these items drop-shipped, or are timelines dependent on large freight shipments? We're not trying to imply that any of these might be problems - but, they are the kind of things we'll certainly be taking into account before offering any kind of official relationship to sell these monitors here (branded or not).


Good questions. Here are some more to be answered: What are the requirements to join your partner programs? Does ocn take a cut of sales? Are the ocn users responsible for all the work up to this point still involved? Why did you wait weeks to post this notice until there was a large interest and sales were likely forthcoming (despite no relevant violating links posted yet)?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> Please stay tuned for further information - once we've established communication with the various representatives giving information thats been posted here, we'll let you know the results of our discussions.


A regular schedule for updates in a fixed location would be nice.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> According to the forum terms "You agree that no legal action, past, present or future, will be taken against Overclock.net in relation to your dealings with the site or people on the site". (terms of service)


That won't stop people from complaining and threatening and just causing a ruckus/headaches in general, if something happens. If people even bother to read the TOS to begin with.


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> "All deals *conducted in the For Sale section*, any other area within Overclock.net or with Overclock.net users via any other means are solely between the participants. Overclock.net is not responsible and will not get involved."


The bold part will be used as an "escape clause" in this situation since the discussion was in another forum. However, that's all it was. Discussion. There were no links to the webshop (yet) or elsewhere.

That having been said,

I think it's ridiculous they are insisting on having a "partnership" though in order to allow discussion of the topic. I understand this isn't the typical "store exclusive" type of situation but, in the end that's really what it it is due to the circumstances involved. A webshop is really no different than an ebay store or a user selling items in bulk via a thread they create in a buy/sale/trade forum, etc. Obviously there are differences in all of those situations but, from the "big picture" point of view, they are really all one in the same. Retail is retail . . .

If this was actually an issue of "liability" or "concern for the memberbase", this action should have been taken well before now. Someone should have stepped in at the start with the information posted by the staff after they locked the thread once there had been 114 pages of discussion. At this point, stepping in doesn't come across as being noble. It comes across as sitting on the fence to see how things were going to play out and then swooping in at the end to try and take advantage of the situation. It's purely bad form.


----------



## Hydros

There is no reason to question OCNs decision. As far as I understand it was the man and chief who made the decision and not a deluded moderator. Of course he has to have his eye open when another company plans a specific Overclock.net version. If the monitor producer want to make a OCN version they of course first must ask OCN for his permission.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Racer J*
> 
> The bold part will be used as an "escape clause" in this situation since the discussion was in another forum. However, that's all it was. Discussion. There were no links to the webshop (yet) or elsewhere.
> That having been said,
> I think it's ridiculous they are insisting on having a "partnership" though in order to allow discussion of the topic. I understand this isn't the typical "store exclusive" type of situation but, in the end that's really what it it is due to the circumstances involved. A webshop is really no different than an ebay store or a user selling items in bulk via a thread they create in a buy/sale/trade forum, etc. Obviously there are differences in all of those situations but, from the "big picture" point of view, they are really all one in the same. Retail is retail . . .
> If this was actually an issue of "liability" or "concern for the memberbase", this action should have been taken well before now. Someone should have stepped in at the start with the information posted by the staff after they locked the thread once there had been 114 pages of discussion. At this point, stepping in doesn't come across as being noble. It comes across as sitting on the fence to see how things were going to play out and then swooping in at the end to try and take advantage of the situation. It's purely bad form.


Amen brother couldn't have said it better


----------



## Nickjames

The OCN branding would've been free advertising, these monitors will sell regardless of whos logo is on it. The monitors are still going to be sold on ebay by the Korean distributors so I don't see what profit OCN is looking to make here other than the branding. They were never meant to be sold through anyone other than ebay AFAIK.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickjames*
> 
> The OCN branding would've been free advertising, these monitors will sell regardless of whos logo is on it. The monitors are still going to be sold on ebay by the Korean distributors so I don't see what profit OCN is looking to make here other than the branding. They were never meant to be sold through anyone other than ebay AFAIK.


Probably a small share for each monitor with the OCN version label.


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> There is no reason to question OCNs decision.


No, there is no reason to blindly accept what OCN said as it simply doesn't "fit" into the context it was used. The post made after the staff locked the thread should have been made on day one, not after 114 pages of discussion and an agreement was reached between the manufacturer and an ebay seller to procure a second manufacturing run. If OCN wants to be involved and have their name plastered over it, they should have been involved from the start rather than resting on their laurels instead of helping the manufacturer, ebay seller, and the user involved. At no point was it ever confirmed that it would even have anything to do with OCN though and now they are refusing to allow discussion of it unless it does.

You seriously don't see any issue with that?


----------



## bigmac11

Since when was it going to be "OCN" branded? It's not like they designed it or anything.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Racer J*
> 
> No, there is no reason to blindly accept what OCN said as it simply doesn't "fit" into the context it was used. The post made after the staff locked the thread should have been made on day one, not after 114 pages of discussion and an agreement was reached between the manufacturer and an ebay seller to procure a second manufacturing run. If OCN wants to be involved and have their name plastered over it, they should have been involved from the start rather than resting on their laurels instead of helping the manufacturer, ebay seller, and the user involved. At no point was it ever confirmed that it would even have anything to do with OCN though and now they are refusing to allow discussion of it unless it does.
> You seriously don't see any issue with that?


OCN do what they think is best for them. They just want to make some money. Nothing wrong with that.

Of course they will lose some activity for locking that topic but I suppose the OCN chief has taken that in consideration when making his decision.


----------



## Wage

Racer pretty much said everything I was going to, but I wanted to chime in to respond to this:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> There is no reason to question OCNs decision. As far as I understand it was the man and chief who made the decision and not a deluded moderator. Of course he has to have his eye open when another company plans a specific Overclock.net version. If the monitor producer want to make a OCN version they of course first must ask OCN for his permission.


It's early here in Southern California, and you, Sir, have given me my first LOL of the day. +rep to you, good man. Well not really, but in spirit


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> Racer pretty much said everything I was going to, but I wanted to chime in to respond to this:
> It's early here in Southern California, and you, Sir, have given me my first LOL of the day. +rep to you, good man. Well not really, but in spirit


Thanx man!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The reason it was locked now and not and the start is admin and Chipp have very buzy schedules and it took a while for them to look into this.
Chipp stated the reasons for the lock so I'm not going to repeat them.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> The reason it was locked now and not and the start is admin and Chipp have very buzy schedules...


Would prefer to hear from the chief instead of his secratary.


----------



## Wage

Took them a while to look into it? The thread's been there for how many weeks, and with how many posts and users responding to its poll?

Let me make an incredibly popular thread asking people whether they're interested in purchasing thong underwear that clocks to 100hz and we'll see how quickly that gets closed.


----------



## Whitespider999

As a 'potential' customer - I take no issue with this so long as:

A - Ocn does not raise the price due to their branding/partnership. Advertising - I can live with.
and
B - Ocn does not scare away the potential sale due to imposed standards.

Standards for sale are great - however this is a company that obviously does things cheaply - at a 'overall' benefit for the end user (with a few exceptions) - sometimes it's better to take a risk. That to not even have the option of sale.

I hope OCN deal with this delicately, and if this leads to 1000+ monitors not being produced - then I think that's headline worthy.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitespider999*
> 
> As a 'potential' customer - I take no issue with this so long as:
> A - Ocn does not raise the price due to their branding/partnership. Advertising - I can live with.
> and
> B - Ocn does not scare away the potential sale due to imposed standards.
> Standards for sale are great - however this is a company that obviously does things cheaply - at a 'overall' benefit for the end user (with a few exceptions) - sometimes it's better to take a risk. That to not even have the option of sale.
> I hope OCN deal with this delicately, and if this leads to 1000+ monitors not being produced - then I think that's headline worthy.


A) There will be no OCN branding. That would involve licensing requirements. It may be an unofficial "made for OCN" build, but with no logo's, names, trademarks, nothing.

B) The risk is certainly there, and can be mitigated by purchasing a Squaretrade warranty (as long as you are in the United States or the United Kingdom)


----------



## insider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> That's not even remotely the issue. -_- Lol.


Sorry, I dont understand. That means we can or we cant? If yes then how? Sorry again, im not a english man.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insider*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> That's not even remotely the issue. -_- Lol.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, I dont understand. That means we can or we cant? If yes then how? Sorry again, im not a english man.
Click to expand...

The 3d doesn't work because it's not on the list of approved monitors for Nvidia 3d Vision. The only driver that can force manual set up of 3d on an unofficial monitor, is the Forceware 285 or forceware 286. The problem is, the GTX 680 can't run on those 2 drivers as the card is newer than those drivers. And...GTX 680 is the only card that can run at 120hz. So...the cards that CAN run the old drivers, can't run 120hz. The card that CAN run 120hz, can't run the old drivers that you need.

Furthermore, I was unable to get anything working under Tridef or IZ3d. I realized, at that point, that I should be happy enough with the high refresh rate and give up on 3d.


----------



## insider

Well. I have Yamakasi Multi and I CAN hit 120Hz on 1920x1080 (multi-version have scaler) with my GTX 460. Sorry, I was wrong (or maybe not?). So, you are saying that we need new driver that can force 3d on unsupported monitor?


----------



## bQvle

*About: Yamakasi Catleap Q270 (100hz guaranteed)*

Before I started this monitor adventure, I knew that I would fade from here when it was done. This was kind of my mission here. Normally i don't paticipate in forums, but eagerly googling "2560x1440 100hz" brought me here, and things just started rolling!

I have handed over "my contacts" information to Chipp. And from all my heart, I hope for you all, that they manage to cut some kind of deal.

I wish you the best of luck ScribbyDaGreat, with the PCBs hopefully this will be allowed to succeed.

Now i will enjoy my "soon to become 2B" catleaps, and forget all about who can pee the longest! I will follow for sure, but its up to Chipp and OCN if this deal is ever going to happend!

Pease!


----------



## andrews2547

I've actually read most of the OP and had a look on google and I can now see what is so special about these monitors, and at $350USD it's amazing value for money. I might buy one (or maybe more if I get a better GPU) Q270 SE once I have the money. I think the only problems I will have would be to find on from a reputable seller.

EDIT: Never mind found one on eBay.


----------



## Whitespider999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insider*
> 
> Well. I have Yamakasi Multi and I CAN hit 120Hz on 1920x1080 (multi-version have scaler) with my GTX 460. Sorry, I was wrong (or maybe not?). So, you are saying that we need new driver that can force 3d on unsupported monitor?


From my understanding, if you have a gtx 460 and can achieve 120hz at 1920x1080 - you CAN try the unofficial driver.


----------



## mystigiandoll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> OCN do what they think is best for them. They just want to make some money. Nothing wrong with that.
> Of course they will lose some activity for locking that topic but I suppose the OCN chief has taken that in consideration when making his decision.


Edit: bQvle cleared up my concerns.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitespider999*
> 
> From my understanding, if you have a gtx 460 and can achieve 120hz at 1920x1080 - you CAN try the unofficial driver.


At 1920x1080 you wouldn't need to go over the 400mhz pixel clock. That is true. From my general experience though...the 3d just isn't going to happen. I'm pretty sure for 3d to work properly, you need it to be running at its native resolution as well. But if you wanna give it a try, by all means.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> ...we go using parallax barrier tech - no glasses but prone to alignment issues, plus tearing issues (although the refresh rate should help solve this), and PRINTING 100+ times before nailing it.
> Of course, all we need is someone with a high end industrial printer with the exact settings and testing done, and print off enough transparent film for the parallax method and we should be set for LIFE
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Although then you are restricted in how you sit (to get the best effect, plus 27" isn't an ideal size for the technique, although doable)


Parallax 3D is not acceptable due to the halved horizontal resolution IMO; unless you've got a display intended for it (and it has increased horizontal resolution to compensate) then you're missing all the benefits of the 2560x1440 panel in the first place (and might as well just buy a 120Hz 1080p panel).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> Its a problem with the LG panels in the first place. There's a problem with the LED array and how it was designed (or something like that) - there is a solution (but it's in Russian; there's an English guide but I dunno who has attempted it yet and succeeded... or failed)


I have applied that russian mod to stryker's 2B board that I fixed the backlighting on; it seemed to help a bit, but it wasn't an instantaneous and perfect fix (he still has a tiny bit of unevenness). I will be doing some experimentation on my own looking into a possible alternative (a potentiometer on the board to manually adjust the brightness balance) but that russian mod, while useful, is not the ultimate fix to unevenness issues with these monitors. I'll also be posting pictures of how I did the mod against his 2B board (which has a different layout than the 2C referred to in the original pictures).


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bQvle*
> 
> *About: Yamakasi Catleap Q270 (100hz guaranteed)*
> 
> Before I started this monitor adventure, I knew that I would fade from here when it was done. This was kind of my mission here. Normally i don't paticipate in forums, but eagerly googling "2560x1440 100hz" brought me here, and things just started rolling!
> 
> I have handed over "my contacts" information to Chipp. And from all my heart, I hope for you all, that they manage to cut some kind of deal.
> 
> I wish you the best of luck ScribbyDaGreat, with the PCBs hopefully this will be allowed to succeed.
> 
> Now i will enjoy my "soon to become 2B" catleaps, and forget all about who can pee the longest! I will follow for sure, but its up to Chipp and OCN if this deal is ever going to happend!
> 
> Pease!


bQvle - thanks so much for all your hard work! I hope OCN doesn't screw this up in the end (not anticipating they will, but who knows.) I am not sure why they feel the need to take over since it appeared this was simply going to be another monitor up for sale on eBay from Korea - we just happened to ask for particular guts. From what I read in the TOS posting about a monitor that may be for sale on another site, whether Amazon, Best Buy, etc. - yes even eBay without links, is not against the TOS. I see links to items for sale on this forum every day.

The Catleaps will not be branded anything other than that - Yamakasi - the Witech model designation for the Catleap - not OCN. Just because we have asked for them and talked extensively about them being made available doesn't mean OCN needs to take them over.

Again, this is my opinion based on talking with bQvle's contact (also mine for my extra PCBs), these are a special run monitor being sold on a separate website, eBay, by third party resellers. Why is OCN involved here? The explanation on the thread makes no sense when one understands what is really going on behind the scenes.

Is it a money grab, potentially, by OCN? Maybe. I know there are ZERO legal ramifications from informing the OCN community that these monitors are for sale on a particular site - and in the case of eBay not providing a direct link.

Having read and re-read the explanation it makes me real nervous about pursuing the PCBs and at the last minute OCN saying - "Nope, we are taking it from here thank you very much."


----------



## atmosfar

And that's what happens when you switch to Huddler, folks! Commercialization of your userbase. Very same attitude on Head-Fi.


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> And that's what happens when you switch to Huddler, folks! Commercialization of your userbase. Very same attitude on Head-Fi.


Head-fi is a lot more extreme.

They'll ban you if you post objective results of DIY or other amps against one of their sponsors.


----------



## mav451

Scribb - agreed. I'm not particularly happy with how this has been handled...and while I understand it's "our board, our rules", it just came out of left field. 725 votes (4 weeks), and only now that it is so close to coming to fruition, there is suddenly intervention?


----------



## Racer J

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Having read and re-read the explanation it makes me real nervous about pursuing the PCBs and at the last minute OCN saying - "Nope, we are taking it from here thank you very much."


You are not alone in that assessment as others have voiced that concern as well. With that having been said, best of luck to you Scribby and to those that have been waiting around for the PCBs to be made and/or the second production run of the 2B Catleap. Yall have put forth an amazing amount of work to bring both of those to fruition.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> bQvle - thanks so much for all your hard work! I hope OCN doesn't screw this up in the end (not anticipating they will, but who knows.) I am not sure why they feel the need to take over since it appeared this was simply going to be another monitor up for sale on eBay from Korea - we just happened to ask for particular guts. From what I read in the TOS posting about a monitor that may be for sale on another site, whether Amazon, Best Buy, etc. - yes even eBay without links, is not against the TOS. I see links to items for sale on this forum every day.
> 
> The Catleaps will not be branded anything other than that - Yamakasi - the Witech model designation for the Catleap - not OCN. Just because we have asked for them and talked extensively about them being made available doesn't mean OCN needs to take them over.
> 
> Again, this is my opinion based on talking with bQvle's contact (also mine for my extra PCBs), these are a special run monitor being sold on a separate website, eBay, by third party resellers. Why is OCN involved here? The explanation on the thread makes no sense when one understands what is really going on behind the scenes.
> 
> Is it a money grab, potentially, by OCN? Maybe. I know there are ZERO legal ramifications from informing the OCN community that these monitors are for sale on a particular site - and in the case of eBay not providing a direct link.
> 
> Having read and re-read the explanation it makes me real nervous about pursuing the PCBs and at the last minute OCN saying - "Nope, we are taking it from here thank you very much."


This. Thank you.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Also, folks, please stay tuned regarding the monitors.


----------



## Nickjames

And that's the way the cookie crumbles. GOODNIGHT!


----------



## Wage

4 weeks into the thread and just now they decide to butt in? Oh, and I'm sure the OP of that thread is being cut in on the deal after doing 100% of the legwork, right?

Give me a break @ this blatant example of drug dealer/pimp mentality, and I'll catch you guys on a forum whose owner doesn't pride himself in unethical business practices...


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wage*
> 
> 4 weeks into the thread and just now they decide to butt in? Oh, and I'm sure the OP of that thread is being cut in on the deal after doing 100% of the legwork, right?
> 
> Give me a break @ this blatant example of drug dealer/pimp mentality, and I'll catch you guys on a forum whose owner doesn't pride himself in unethical business practices...


Welcome to OCN. Hopefully this won't such a failure like the gentle typhoon group buy.

Sent from my HTC EVO 3D X515a using Tapatalk


----------



## b4sh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> bQvle - thanks so much for all your hard work! I hope OCN doesn't screw this up in the end (not anticipating they will, but who knows.) I am not sure why they feel the need to take over since it appeared this was simply going to be another monitor up for sale on eBay from Korea - we just happened to ask for particular guts. From what I read in the TOS posting about a monitor that may be for sale on another site, whether Amazon, Best Buy, etc. - yes even eBay without links, is not against the TOS. I see links to items for sale on this forum every day.
> 
> The Catleaps will not be branded anything other than that - Yamakasi - the Witech model designation for the Catleap - not OCN. Just because we have asked for them and talked extensively about them being made available doesn't mean OCN needs to take them over.
> 
> Again, this is my opinion based on talking with bQvle's contact (also mine for my extra PCBs), these are a special run monitor being sold on a separate website, eBay, by third party resellers. Why is OCN involved here? The explanation on the thread makes no sense when one understands what is really going on behind the scenes.
> 
> Is it a money grab, potentially, by OCN? Maybe. I know there are ZERO legal ramifications from informing the OCN community that these monitors are for sale on a particular site - and in the case of eBay not providing a direct link.
> 
> Having read and re-read the explanation it makes me real nervous about pursuing the PCBs and at the last minute OCN saying - "Nope, we are taking it from here thank you very much."


Thanks for all your work, it means allot to all of us who already own a catleap non 2B version. Hopefully the boards will be available at some point in the future.
I will check for updates on another forum though im out.


----------



## DASM

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I have applied that russian mod to stryker's 2B board that I fixed the backlighting on; it seemed to help a bit, but it wasn't an instantaneous and perfect fix (he still has a tiny bit of unevenness). I will be doing some experimentation on my own looking into a possible alternative (a potentiometer on the board to manually adjust the brightness balance) but that russian mod, while useful, is not the ultimate fix to unevenness issues with these monitors. I'll also be posting pictures of how I did the mod against his 2B board (which has a different layout than the 2C referred to in the original pictures).


I'm sure better mod is... home made 6 ch PWM controller . It is because WLED have different voltage drop and some another reasons (some background here http://www.molalla.net/members/leeper/pwm_cc.htm ).


----------



## mystigiandoll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> bQvle - thanks so much for all your hard work! I hope OCN doesn't screw this up in the end (not anticipating they will, but who knows.) I am not sure why they feel the need to take over since it appeared this was simply going to be another monitor up for sale on eBay from Korea - we just happened to ask for particular guts. From what I read in the TOS posting about a monitor that may be for sale on another site, whether Amazon, Best Buy, etc. - yes even eBay without links, is not against the TOS. I see links to items for sale on this forum every day.
> 
> The Catleaps will not be branded anything other than that - Yamakasi - the Witech model designation for the Catleap - not OCN. Just because we have asked for them and talked extensively about them being made available doesn't mean OCN needs to take them over.
> 
> Again, this is my opinion based on talking with bQvle's contact (also mine for my extra PCBs), these are a special run monitor being sold on a separate website, eBay, by third party resellers. Why is OCN involved here? The explanation on the thread makes no sense when one understands what is really going on behind the scenes.
> 
> Is it a money grab, potentially, by OCN? Maybe. I know there are ZERO legal ramifications from informing the OCN community that these monitors are for sale on a particular site - and in the case of eBay not providing a direct link.
> 
> Having read and re-read the explanation it makes me real nervous about pursuing the PCBs and at the last minute OCN saying - "Nope, we are taking it from here thank you very much."


Could not have said it better. Going to be very frustrated if they ruin what progress was made by trying to get a money grab when OCN has no part in these monitors except was used as a place for people to congregate (for the most part isn't that what forums are?). Anyhow, here is to hoping that OCN doesn't mess it up AND they don't capitalize on us after a lot of people on this forum identified and did the leg work to find out about the OC potential of the 2B and did the leg work to contact the distributor on their own time. Keep up the great work Scribby, I definitely keep up with your progress and am looking forward to how the PCB's turn out!


----------



## DrRetina

Did anyone find a good way to get the Yamakasi logo off without damaging the plastic? Can the paint be dissolved with turpentine of some other chemical?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystigiandoll*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> bQvle - thanks so much for all your hard work! I hope OCN doesn't screw this up in the end (not anticipating they will, but who knows.) I am not sure why they feel the need to take over since it appeared this was simply going to be another monitor up for sale on eBay from Korea - we just happened to ask for particular guts. From what I read in the TOS posting about a monitor that may be for sale on another site, whether Amazon, Best Buy, etc. - yes even eBay without links, is not against the TOS. I see links to items for sale on this forum every day.
> 
> The Catleaps will not be branded anything other than that - Yamakasi - the Witech model designation for the Catleap - not OCN. Just because we have asked for them and talked extensively about them being made available doesn't mean OCN needs to take them over.
> 
> Again, this is my opinion based on talking with bQvle's contact (also mine for my extra PCBs), these are a special run monitor being sold on a separate website, eBay, by third party resellers. Why is OCN involved here? The explanation on the thread makes no sense when one understands what is really going on behind the scenes.
> 
> Is it a money grab, potentially, by OCN? Maybe. I know there are ZERO legal ramifications from informing the OCN community that these monitors are for sale on a particular site - and in the case of eBay not providing a direct link.
> 
> Having read and re-read the explanation it makes me real nervous about pursuing the PCBs and at the last minute OCN saying - "Nope, we are taking it from here thank you very much."
> 
> 
> 
> Could not have said it better. Going to be very frustrated if they ruin what progress was made by trying to get a money grab when OCN has no part in these monitors except was used as a place for people to congregate (for the most part isn't that what forums are?). Anyhow, here is to hoping that OCN doesn't mess it up AND they don't capitalize on us after a lot of people on this forum identified and did the leg work to find out about the OC potential of the 2B and did the leg work to contact the distributor on their own time. Keep up the great work Scribby, I definitely keep up with your progress and am looking forward to how the PCB's turn out!
Click to expand...

Thanks mate! The PCBs are on their way to China. Will be a few weeks until I get some answers.


----------



## tzyn

Anyone tested these monitors with an intel x4500 onboard graphics card? I have a Thinkpad X200 with the Ultrabase Dockingstation which has a DisplayPort. The device supports resolution up to 2560x1600. So with the active DisplayPort-to-DualLinkDVI it should work.

But on ebay the sellers write that onboard graphics are not supported. So I asked bigclothcraft if that is true although the device support this resolution and he said "onboard not supported", but i don't know why it shouldnt work?!


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Well, I just got mine in from dcsamsungmall. EXTREMELY fast shipping, I am blown away. Payment sent at 6am Tuesday, fedex knocking on my door noon on Thursday.

I received a model 2D not B or C. Not sure if thats good or bad.

Onto my first impressions:

Positive:

*Huge
*Beautiful resolution
* 8bit!!!! Colors much better than my eIPS dell sitting next to it (u2412)
* Cord is a solid 6'

Bad

* At least 1 dead pixel, very bright green too I might add







Extremely visible on blacks, but can't be seen on light backgrounds. Lower middle about 2" above the I in "Yamakasi"
* Suffers from left to right brightness fade. Left side is bright, right side much much darker.
* Very poor construction quality from stand to connectors to general feeling of "cheap". Night and day compared to the u2412.
* Backlight bleed but it isn't too severe. Lower right looks like a candle compared to upper left but its something I can live with.
* Glare. Serious glare on this screen (non glass, no speaker version). Hopefully that doesn't present a major problem for daytime work.

I have yet to game with it. Thus far the biggest disappointment is the left to right brightness. Its pretty bad. I'll play with it later to see if I can somehow "fix" it. I am impressed so far. If I can fix the left to right brightness issue i'll be really stoked.


----------



## JumboShrimp

WOW! well I'm officially going to be a member soon! I cannot believe how fast the shipping was.

I purchased the catleap on the 17th (it was the 18th in korea) it shipped the same day. Tracking said the delivery should be on the 23rd. I was like wow that's pretty fast!. I checked tracking this morning, and it's already here in San Diego en route to my house! omg. 1 day shipping from korea









lets see what the hype is about!


----------



## Neo Mike

A- panels will have flaws in one way or another.


----------



## Steelbarrage

I had really hoped that OCN would not go the route of Head-Fi but with this intervention I can't help but wonder.
I don't want to see this project fail going forward because I want to buy a monitor without having to buy a pcb and other extras just to have a decent monitor.
If it does fail then as much as I love these forums I won't stick around.
Hopefully I will purchase this monitor soon.


----------



## dzap

Well, 1st my post was hello to OCN at 100hz guaranteed catleap thread giving my vote, the 3rd and last is this saying goodbye OCN.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DASM*
> 
> I'm sure better mod is... home made 6 ch PWM controller . It is because WLED have different voltage drop and some another reasons (some background here http://www.molalla.net/members/leeper/pwm_cc.htm ).


"Better" in terms of evenness at varying brightness levels very probably. You offering to foot the bill to design, prototype, test, manufacture and sell such a (rather expensive) circuit?

I think that for our purposes a manual current adjustment to balance the channels would be more than adequate, and "buy potentiometer for 50 cents, solder between points A and B, twist until even" sounds a lot more appealing to me than designing or buying a whole new backlight driver.

The increasing reports of people describing very uneven panels is worrying; Phenrick's blue PCB didn't have components for dual drivers, meaning they're somehow driving both sides from a single backlight driver circuit. If they've just paralleled each LED side (a serious mistake) it would more than explain the dramatic unevenness some people are seeing, but the unfortunate part is I can't think of an easy fix for that oversight... all the LEDs need to be run in series, or they need to have independent drivers (the smaller birghtness variance people were seeing earlier is probably simply caused by smaller current differences between each half of the circuit due to component tolerances, and this is fixable by modifications to one side of the circuit to even them out).

It would help if some people seeing dramatic brightness differences on newly received panels could open them up and photograph their internals, specifically their DVI boards so that we can figure out if they're using a different circuit on these new units.


----------



## Sxcerino

Not trying to bash OCN or anything, but seeing how the other thread got closed down trying to source 100+ hertz monitors, this thread might be in the same boat soon as we're trying to source 100+ hertz PCBs.

That would be... unfortunate, to say in the least.


----------



## cirthix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Not trying to bash OCN or anything, but seeing how the other thread got closed down trying to source 100+ hertz monitors, this thread might be in the same boat soon as we're trying to source 100+ hertz PCBs.
> That would be... unfortunate, to say in the least.


yeah, these two threads are the only reason why i joined ocn. will leave if they both get closed.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> Not trying to bash OCN or anything, but seeing how the other thread got closed down trying to source 100+ hertz monitors, this thread might be in the same boat soon as we're trying to source 100+ hertz PCBs.
> 
> That would be... unfortunate, to say in the least.


I would be pissed just based on the shear number of hours I have devoted to this thread.

I am not anywhere close to a final with the PCBs and when I am I will consider the best way to make them available and contact OCN ahead of time. Hopefully, we can get past the closure of the 100hz thread and move on to discussion of this awesome monitor here.

I will update the OP when I can (I know I have been saying that for a week, but man I have a TON of stuff to add) and will provide PCB updates as I get news. For now, they should be in China on Monday. Will take them some time to create a BOM and gerber.


----------



## JassimH

Hi guys, two questions.

#1 would crossfire of two-three 7970 reference pcbs allow me to overclock my monitor or not?

#2 does the speaker version guarantee the over-clocked PCB being shipped?

Thanks!


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JassimH*
> 
> Hi guys, two questions.
> #1 would crossfire of two-three 7970 reference pcbs allow me to overclock my monitor or not?
> #2 does the speaker version guarantee the over-clocked PCB being shipped?
> Thanks!


1. CrossFire has nothing to do with overclocking or lack of overclocking the monitor

2. Nope.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> 1. CrossFire has nothing to do with overclocking or lack of overclocking the monitor


It does, actually, as there are additional synchronization issues at higher refresh rates. You will probably be able to overclock with the configuration still, but the limit may not be as high as a single card.


----------



## erocker

What OCN is doing is crap. This is my final post here, feel free to join me on TPU where they keep members in their best interest and not money or sponsors.

Everyone have a good one and all the best to you.


----------



## Neo Mike

Only reason i joined is this whole korean monitor thing, but its taking a bad turn here, im close to leaveing myself.


----------



## [T]yphoon

i'm a bit interested though
good monitor? bad monitor?


----------



## KenJit

Finally received my catleap in the mail. It is a 2D version sent by DCsamsungmall. Colors look great right out of the box. Haven't tested OC yet, no stuck pixels, slight backlight bleeding in the bottom right but you can barely tell. Will post pics soon


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenJit*
> 
> Finally received my catleap in the mail. It is a 2D version sent by DCsamsungmall. Colors look great right out of the box. Haven't tested OC yet, no stuck pixels, slight backlight bleeding in the bottom right but you can barely tell. Will post pics soon


Hmm, lucky you. Mine has a green stuck pixel and some really bad right to left brightness issues.


----------



## Crezzlin

Can you overclock the monitors with AMD cards? Ta


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Can you overclock the monitors with AMD cards? Ta


Read the first post..


----------



## KenJit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Hmm, lucky you. Mine has a green stuck pixel and some really bad right to left brightness issues.


Upon further inspection I got a green stuck pixel when my screen is fully black. I however have no left to right brightness issues.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenJit*
> 
> Upon further inspection I got a green stuck pixel when my screen is fully black. I however have no left to right brightness issues.


It seems i've somewhat resolved it by using the 6500k monitor profile from toasty and turning brightness up a bit. Where is your green pixel? Mine is about 1" above and 2" to the right of the "I" in yamakasi. Since you and I ordered the same day, i'm sure this was from the same run/batch.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Has anyone notice that games are very blurry during motion on these? I'm wondering if its because i'm using the stock 5' cable (10' comes next week). All I know is that even team fortress 2 is pretty blurry when moving and my 6970s are more than enough to pump out 60fps (which fraps tells me i'm getting) in a game like tf2. I'm hoping theres a solution to this and its not just the slowness if S-IPS. Anyone?


----------



## SmaShTr

Guys, what was the final resolution (if any) to get color calibration to work during games? My Catleap now looks beautiful after using the D65 profile, but I can see the green tint come back in full force when playing games.

I remember this was being discussed a while ago. Was this issue ever resolved?


----------



## KenJit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> It seems i've somewhat resolved it by using the 6500k monitor profile from toasty and turning brightness up a bit. Where is your green pixel? Mine is about 1" above and 2" to the right of the "I" in yamakasi. Since you and I ordered the same day, i'm sure this was from the same run/batch.


my pixel is in the middle of the screen vertically and about in thbe midpoint between the center of the screen and the left


----------



## KenJit

Really can't complain though, definitely a legit buy for a 350$ monitor. The colors really pop out at you in comparison to the DELL ips screens


----------



## JumboShrimp

got my catleap just now. 1 dead pixel unfortunately. overall pretty happy w/ the priced paid.


----------



## komichi

Does anyone know how to fix the uneven backlight?


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Does anyone know how to fix the uneven backlight?


My solution was to use the 6500k profile provided in the first post from toasty and then turn the brightness up. Didn't completely eliminate it but did help.


----------



## KenJit

Got my 2D catleap overclocked to 68 hz anything more and it starts going nuts


----------



## Swolern

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Has anyone notice that games are very blurry during motion on these? I'm wondering if its because i'm using the stock 5' cable (10' comes next week). All I know is that even team fortress 2 is pretty blurry when moving and my 6970s are more than enough to pump out 60fps (which fraps tells me i'm getting) in a game like tf2. I'm hoping theres a solution to this and its not just the slowness if S-IPS. Anyone?


Whats up SpacePope its Swolern from Slickdeals. Thats amazing to hear the colors on the Catleap look better that the Dell. Any luck with the blurry motion issue? I do remember a post a few weeks ago where the OP was having similar issues and was resolved with new cables. U could always buy some cables at Best Buy or Frys to test then return when your other cable comes in. My finger has been itching bad to pull the trigger on 3 of these bad boys. But a grand is a lot on an oversea bargain deal. Hope it works out for ya.


----------



## KenJit

My 2D Catleap has begun to suffer from Image Retention. Hoping its just because I had it on too long...but I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be an issue. Do you think replacing the power block with a higher quality one and or getting a higher quality dvi cable can help fix the issue?

Anyone else get hit by this problem?


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phenrick*
> 
> Does your monitor have speakers like mine? My 2C monitor you showed in the picture obviously has the same backlight issues, but it does NOT depend on brightness level. The right side of the screen is always dimmer at every brightness level. It would be interesting to know what PCB you have, because my monitor is a strange blue PCB that I haven't seen in anyone else's monitor


No, mine doesn't have speakers. Sorry but I hardly dare to take it to pieces just to look what colour my PCB is.
I think I have another PCB differing from yours because of the unevenness disappears on high level of brightness. But we are in the same boat







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *function*
> 
> My monitor received few days ago, but I thing it has a problem. Monitor's left-down section darker than other sections..
> Is it normal?
> 
> Thanks...


It's exactly the same picture that I can see if I am using a grey background and the brightness is set to minimum.
Moreover later I had noticed that my screen has a significant yellowish tint and now it really pisses me off:
http://www.pictureshack.ru/view_39321_SAM_9074.jpg
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Uhmm...it shouldn't be visible once the brightness is set to half-way or a little more. I took a picture at minimum brightness, and then one at 14 clicks upwards...


I envy you because mine is much worse than yours! 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> ......
> * Suffers from left to right brightness fade. Left side is bright, right side much much darker.
> ....Thus far the biggest disappointment is the left to right brightness. Its pretty bad. I'll play with it later to see if I can somehow "fix" it. I am impressed so far. If I can fix the left to right brightness issue i'll be really stoked.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Does anyone know how to fix the uneven backlight?


I think you both should read these posts (the whole story from the beginning):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2150#post_16892874
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2150#post_16893885
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2310#post_16911932


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Hey'all! Just got a catleap and it is apparently the 2c speaker model. I cant see any dead pixels though there is a problem with it that makes it pretty much unusable for me: The brightness of the color white is just too strong. It makes my eyes hurt and i cant use the monitor. Ive tried to use the d65 custom color profile but it didnt help much with the agressive brightness of white colors issue. I've also tried using the on board brightness buttons to tone it down but it makes the image dull overall at the point when i can see white as non agressive and eye piercing. Ive also tried to use Powerstrip but it gives a red screen with a Gtx 680 because of the raw drivers. I'm completley baffled by this point and out of ideas.


----------



## Chobbit

Right finally can join the club. Picked up my Catleap last night. It was a pixel perfect tempered (Glossy bezel) screen model from Green_Sum and it's a 2C so it doesn't look like all (if any) of the pixel perfect models are 2B atleast from green sum, that's fine with me however as I have no intention of overclocking either way as I'm happy with 60hz. Actually that's a lie I'm extremely happy with the monitor, 1440p is a fantastic upgrade from 1080p and the colours are so much better and I haven't had time to use the colour optimisation tools off the first page (I did use windows colour correction tools too remove the red tint).

It has one black pixel right in the left hand corner which isn't classed as a defect but doesn't bother me in the slightest as it's soo far in the corner, no bleed, no noticeable shading issues accross the screen and I've tried all 30 brightness levels too check.

As for shipping too the UK, heres my experience:

It was posted on Thurs 12th, left korear on Fri 13th, arrived in the UK Sat 14th, where customs decided too hold it saying the invoice was missing, after multiple phone calls telling me the invoice was missing and I have too wait till they investigate it and will either have too pay charges of what they estimate the worth too be or I could send an invoice, I then phoned up parcelforce who will be delivering the goods and they told me that every package that comes through customs has this status message because customs are slow and it gives them a reason too hold your package while they catchup with their constant back log.

In the end it was released fine from customs on Wed 18th (with charges on the tracking status) it arrived at my local Parcelforce depot yesterday (19th) where I phoned up and was told I had fees of £37 too pay and I could either wait 3-5 days for a letter too arrive with instructions on how too pay (which meant I wouldn't expect delivery until late next week) or I could goto the local depot pay the fees and pick it up (which I did). When I got it the original invoice was there including the all the codes I asked the seller too put on the package too help me get through customs faster (which clearly had no affect) so customs basically held the package for no reason what so ever as far as I can tell.

I did ask Green Sum too just declare the item as its full £280 which I thought would clear customs with a £50 VAT charge, however he ignored this and declared it as a $30 gift which probably saved me some money in the long run but wasn't fooling anyone and might have had something too do with the customs delay, however it was cleared fine in the end and they hadn't opened the box too look. The charges were £24 for VAT (which means they estimated the package too be worth £120) and a £13 Parcelforce charge for them paying the original VAT charge at customs too get the package released.

Hopefully this will help others thinking of importing to the UK too know what too expect, however having this monitor setup in all its beautiful glory has totally made all the hassle and cost worth it.

Finally if the look of a monitor is important I highly recommend the tempered glass version as it's stunning.


----------



## Djankie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> Hey'all! Just got a catleap and it is apparently the 2c speaker model. I cant see any dead pixels though there is a problem with it that makes it pretty much unusable for me: The brightness of the color white is just too strong. It makes my eyes hurt and i cant use the monitor. Ive tried to use the d65 custom color profile but it didnt help much with the agressive brightness of white colors issue. I've also tried using the on board brightness buttons to tone it down but it makes the image dull overall at the point when i can see white as non agressive and eye piercing. Ive also tried to use Powerstrip but it gives a red screen with a Gtx 680 because of the raw drivers. I'm completley baffled by this point and out of ideas.


Wear glasses


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> Hey'all! Just got a catleap and it is apparently the 2c speaker model. I cant see any dead pixels though there is a problem with it that makes it pretty much unusable for me: The brightness of the color white is just too strong. It makes my eyes hurt and i cant use the monitor. Ive tried to use the d65 custom color profile but it didnt help much with the agressive brightness of white colors issue. I've also tried using the on board brightness buttons to tone it down but it makes the image dull overall at the point when i can see white as non agressive and eye piercing. Ive also tried to use Powerstrip but it gives a red screen with a Gtx 680 because of the raw drivers. I'm completley baffled by this point and out of ideas.


Use the (shudder) nvidia control panel. Adjust the settings here, trial and error pretty much...

If you could get a calibrator that would be better, but nvidia cards have an issue with making the .ICC stick in games.Also gradient banding due to the LUT loader and nvidia stuff.


----------



## djxput

Ok just got my catleap D version. A few questions ...

- What have you guys done with calibration of the colors etc? ... the whites seem quite bright ... I notice the buttons near the power button (I assume thats the brightness modifiers) ... Have you guys done anything else with any profiles that you have liked; colors seem a bit muted or something also. Is there anyway to tell how bright it is by clicking the buttons? ...

- So seeing how I have a 2D model ... am I still able to OC this at all even by a little bit? ... I've watched hypermatrix's vid and will do that if I can OC. What about a pcb; did someone find a place where they can order one and do a switch (not sure if I want to venture into that or not thou).

- Have not seen any dead pixels and the blacklight seems alright(couldnt really tell thou); but totally not used to a IPS glossy screen; have used matte LCD for soooo long. Its like the monitor has glass in front of it but it doesnt; I love the pixel pitch thou; seems like more intense and clear.

any other suggestions for my purchase


----------



## digitalforce

Anyone been able to get Diablo III beta running smooth at 2560x1440? I tried everything with drivers and overclocking my GTX 580 Lightning but it just doesn't go over 30-40 FPS during gameplay -- ARGH!!!


----------



## djxput

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Anyone been able to get Diablo III beta running smooth at 2560x1440? I tried everything with drivers and overclocking my GTX 580 Lightning but it just doesn't go over 30-40 FPS during gameplay -- ARGH!!!


ouch 30-40 fps with a gtx 580? hmmm something doesnt seem right. Im going to test tonite so will let you know.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

A little *review* after 24 hours now with my catleap 2D and here are my conclusions compared to my dell u2711 and u2412:

The catleap is a really really great value monitor. Mine has one dead GREEN pixel which is quite annoying on black backgrounds but otherwise not noticeable. Backlight bleed is not bad and response times in games are really good. My monitor has slight yellowing on the right side compared to the left which looks really almost perfect. In games this is not noticeable but if you're viewing an all white webpage your'e going to notice it.

Compared to my u2711 which I got for $780 on a "slickdeal" (which I use at work) this monitor would get a B+ if the dell got an A+. The dell has no yellowing, no dead pixels and of course a warranty/service/techsupport, etc. In games they are pretty much identical, the only advantage is the dell doesn't have a glossy screen and the dell you can use whatever input you want.

For half price this monitor is a steal. The lack of warranty is pretty scary but since square trade only wants $50 for one it makes this monitor almost exactly half price with almost all the benefits. In addition the potential to overclock the yamakasi is a plus I have yet to explore, even if my 2D supposedly only goes to 67hz in the best case senario.. So long as the panel lasts for years and doesn't break or is much of a hassle its a really great deal IMHO. Really a TU to Scribby and others who took the plunge and turned the community on to these. So far so good!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djxput*
> 
> ouch 30-40 fps with a gtx 580? hmmm something doesnt seem right. Im going to test tonite so will let you know.


Yeah, that is the thing, 8 gig of RAM, i5-2500k @ 4.2 ghz and a GTX 580 Lightning that I can get to 940 core and 4600 on MEM... it still is only around 40 FPS.

I know the beta patches have killed some performance for a lot of NVIDIA users but this is insane.

PS -- It's a Diablo III beta OPEN weekend!


----------



## digitalforce

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> A little *review* after 24 hours now with my catleap 2D and here are my conclusions compared to my dell u2711 and u2412:
> The catleap is a really really great value monitor. Mine has one dead GREEN pixel which is quite annoying on black backgrounds but otherwise not noticeable. Backlight bleed is not bad and response times in games are really good. My monitor has slight yellowing on the right side compared to the left which looks really almost perfect. In games this is not noticeable but if you're viewing an all white webpage your'e going to notice it.
> Compared to my u2711 which I got for $780 on a "slickdeal" (which I use at work) this monitor would get a B+ if the dell got an A+. The dell has no yellowing, no dead pixels and of course a warranty/service/techsupport, etc. In games they are pretty much identical, the only advantage is the dell doesn't have a glossy screen and the dell you can use whatever input you want.
> For half price this monitor is a steal. The lack of warranty is pretty scary but since square trade only wants $50 for one it makes this monitor almost exactly half price with almost all the benefits. In addition the potential to overclock the yamakasi is a plus I have yet to explore, even if my 2D supposedly only goes to 67hz in the best case senario.. So long as the panel lasts for years and doesn't break or is much of a hassle its a really great deal IMHO. Really a TU to Scribby and others who took the plunge and turned the community on to these. So far so good!


Besides some blacklight bleed around the edges, my Catleap 2C is fantastic!

One problem I have is my 27" HP even though a TN panel, was glossy and had ZERO bleed so I got spoiled. Also, I got a new Panasonic 60" Plasma TV and that is the finest display I have seen in years. I wish I could hook my PC to that for gaming


----------



## djxput

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Yeah, that is the thing, 8 gig of RAM, i5-2500k @ 4.2 ghz and a GTX 580 Lightning that I can get to 940 core and 4600 on MEM... it still is only around 40 FPS.
> I know the beta patches have killed some performance for a lot of NVIDIA users but this is insane.
> PS -- It's a Diablo III beta OPEN weekend!


Ya Open beta this weekend







- going to test my monitor out and see about FPS - have the specs listed below; I set my fan speed really low on my H80 so had to only clock my 2700k to 4.5. Anyways will let you know in errr 5 hours~


----------



## Aguinas

Hi everybody, Yamakasi is coming out with another new 27" 2703 LED. It says this monitor is for gaming and it comes with tempered glass.


----------



## atmosfar

Is it IPS and what is the refresh rate?


----------



## Aguinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> Is it IPS and what is the refresh rate?


Yes IPS, no refresh rate information yet.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aguinas*
> 
> Yes IPS, no refresh rate information yet.


Is it the TOMATO monitor?


----------



## djxput

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aguinas*
> 
> Hi everybody, Yamakasi is coming out with another new 27" 2703 LED. It says this monitor is for gaming and it comes with tempered glass.


hmmm looks nice! - always new stuff coming out once I buy


----------



## Aguinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Is it the TOMATO monitor?


What is TOMATO monitor? But i got a gut feeling the refresh rate is quite high because they are marketing it as a "gaming" monitor.


----------



## komichi

Is it just me or does anyone get a headache after like 3-4 hours of word processing? I don't notice flickering but my eyes are telling me that the flickering is killing it.


----------



## KenJit

This image retention is really starting to be a problem. My desktop is burnt into the background of OC.net atm. Not too impressed anymore

Had it unplugged for about 7 hours before I tried again


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenJit*
> 
> This image retention is really starting to be a problem. My desktop is burnt into the background of OC.net atm. Not too impressed anymore
> Had it unplugged for about 7 hours before I tried again


IPS has had incidents of (temporary) image retention on some screens. One of the most well documented is the image retention on the previous revision of the Lenovo Thinkpad x220, which came with an optional IPS screen. It had some pretty bad image retention, but was eventually fixed middle of last year. I personally have not noticed with my catleap, but I haven't done too much with fixed placement windows either.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aguinas*
> 
> Hi everybody, Yamakasi is coming out with another new 27" 2703 LED. It says this monitor is for gaming and it comes with tempered glass.


Looks absolutely great! I prefer the black stand!


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Got a C monitor from bigcloth with pixel perfect. All pixels look alive but have a small patch of yellowish pixels about half an inch long at very bottom right. Are these stuck pixels?


----------



## KenJit

this is infuriating . . . I would have rather had more dead pixels or a brightness issue


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenJit*
> 
> My 2D Catleap has begun to suffer from Image Retention. Hoping its just because I had it on too long...but I'm pretty sure that shouldn't be an issue. Do you think replacing the power block with a higher quality one and or getting a higher quality dvi cable can help fix the issue?
> Anyone else get hit by this problem?


I found with my 2C that pushing the refresh rate above 60 and close to its limit (67Hz or so) would produce an effect similar to image retention where the image would retain ghosts of old data for awhile; The problem seemed to not occur at refresh rates of 65Hz or lower, so I just left mine at 60 (those extra 5Hz are not worth the added judder in 30/60fps video playback). You may want to set yours back to 60, remove the high-refresh profiles and fully power cycle the monitor to clear it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> Got a C monitor from bigcloth with pixel perfect. All pixels look alive but have a small patch of yellowish pixels about half an inch long at very bottom right. Are these stuck pixels?


Tough to say with just a description; can you post a picture?


----------



## Crezzlin

Sorry if this makes anyone jell







had to be done..

http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/crezzlin/IMG_20120420_171733.jpg

worksperfect, much better than my prev Hazro 30" eyefinity setup..


----------



## Whitespider999

Hypermatrix, no pressure on this.

If you want to - or if you manage to get a gap of time. Could you benchmark the gtx 680 sli's @ 2560x1440 @ 100~ hz.
I just want to see how many games manage to run at 100fps/100hz - ish @ that resolution. And what settings you have to lower to reach that level.

Games I would take a particular interest in, include: Skyrim, Witcher 2, Crysis 2, Saints Row 3, and anything else that's not a fight sim or sports game.

For example, "I can get Avr 90fps in the Crysis 2 (I believe there is a 100fps limit in that game), I had to lower shading the particles from ultra to extreme". Etc etc.

If you have already done something similar, let me apologize in advance.

- Matt.


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> t.
> Tough to say with just a description; can you post a picture?


Sure:



There is also some yellowing in corner as well.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aguinas*
> 
> Hi everybody, Yamakasi is coming out with another new 27" 2703 LED. It says this monitor is for gaming and it comes with tempered glass.


It's been available for a while now and from its specs it isn't any better than the q270s. They are identical other than the panel type. I have no idea what a IPS in plane switching panel means, but there you go. To check out the complete specs - see the OP, click the manufacturer's link, click product/monitor from the top, scroll to the very bottom for the 27" LEDs. Enjoy!!


68.47cm(27형)













최대해상도







2560 X 1440













최대밝기







380cd/m²













명암비







1000 :1













동적명암비







-













응답속도







6ms













시야각







178도(좌우) / 178도(상하)













입력신호







DVI-D Dual Link













스피커







-













화면비율







16:9


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> t.
> Tough to say with just a description; can you post a picture?
> 
> 
> 
> Sure:
> 
> 
> 
> There is also some yellowing in corner as well.
Click to expand...

Weird, maybe your monitor wet itself?







Seriously though - Is it noticeable under normal conditions, not just white screens?


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Weird, maybe your monitor wet itself?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though - Is it noticeable under normal conditions, not just white screens?


Well was doing lcd test and noticed it on white and blue. It isn't very noticeable with windows taskbar but wondering if I should raise it with seller as I did pay more for pixel perfect.


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Weird, maybe your monitor wet itself?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seriously though - Is it noticeable under normal conditions, not just white screens?
> 
> 
> 
> Well was doing lcd test and noticed it on white and blue. It isn't very noticeable with windows taskbar but wondering if I should raise it with seller as I did pay more for pixel perfect.
Click to expand...

I would. You paid for that premium.

On a side note, my monitor has been on my desk for two weeks untested because i have the wrong power brick for north america. :\ I've ordered a replacement but have been waiting all this time and don't even know the condition of my monitor. super annoying.


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Sorry if this makes anyone jell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to be done..
> 
> http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/crezzlin/IMG_20120420_171733.jpg
> 
> worksperfect, much better than my prev Hazro 30" eyefinity setup..


Very nice man, what other hardware did you need to get it setup?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> Well was doing lcd test and noticed it on white and blue. It isn't very noticeable with windows taskbar but wondering if I should raise it with seller as I did pay more for pixel perfect.


It's not a pixel defect; it's something else to do with one of the other layers (backlighting or polarizer or something) so you may not get far quoting your "pixel perfect" policy.


----------



## kakee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Sorry if this makes anyone jell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> had to be done..
> http://i712.photobucket.com/albums/ww122/crezzlin/IMG_20120420_171733.jpg
> worksperfect, much better than my prev Hazro 30" eyefinity setup..


Waiting 100hz model launch







Nice setup, but. . .

Why plastic? Better without, i think?


----------



## mystigiandoll

I thought you were going portrait and debezeling Crezzlin!!


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystigiandoll*
> 
> I thought you were going portrait and debezeling Crezzlin!!


I only did it today, after taken the monitors apart to remove stands etc, I seen that you can't use them in portrait as the bottom part is much bigger... Also the VESA mounts are attached to the rear plastic part of the monitor and not the screen like on my old monitors so it will take some work to remove all the plastic and still mount them.

Not sure if you can overclock when in eyefinity mode? I'm able to get 82Hz easy on all 3 screens.. 2b models..


----------



## Bors Mistral

Regarding the "monitor buzzing" fix...
Is there a specific type of epoxy that is recommended, or is even the generic 5 minute one from general stores alright?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> ...I have no idea what a IPS in plane switching panel means, but there you go...


Late 1st of April?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> ...all 3 screens.. 2b models..


Hoggin' all the 2Bs, are ya?









Hopefully I won't have to be jealous much longer if either Scribby's boards or the new 2Bs come through...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bors Mistral*
> 
> Regarding the "monitor buzzing" fix...
> Is there a specific type of epoxy that is recommended, or is even the generic 5 minute one from general stores alright?


Just about any old normal epoxy should do the trick, assuming it's not some specific silver-infused conductive version or something...
Don't go overboard with it though, because it can impede cooling on the coils somewhat if they're completely embedded in it. You should also confirm it's not the coil buzzing against the metal cover as Scribby discovered (this may explain some, but not all cases of buzzing).


----------



## Whitespider999

The problem with me getting one of these monitors is that I have zero soldering/taking apart monitors confidence. So if it arrived with a problem - unless I did a bunch of research and took a chance with my unproven skillset (or lack thereof), I would pretty much be stuck with whatever I got.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitespider999*
> 
> The problem with me getting one of these monitors is that I have zero soldering/taking apart monitors confidence. So if it arrived with a problem - unless I did a bunch of research and took a chance with my unproven skillset (or lack thereof), I would pretty much be stuck with whatever I got.


And that's part of the risk in getting a monitor of these specs at this price point; there's no such thing as a free lunch. You want total confidence in your buy? Top-tier manufacturers (and their $700-$1000 price tags) are over that way


----------



## cptnsmelly

Hey Everyone! I'm going to share something that I think will help a lot of people.

Alright! So, I got my monitor the other day and I thought I had a lemon. It wouldn't turn on. Blinking green light. I didn't want to open the monitor so I screwed around with plugging and unplugging the DVI cable and still nothing. Finally I plugged the monitor into my pc AS WELL AS my old monitor. My pc booted and displayed on the old monitor. I then used windows "screen resolution" tool (for noobs, right click on the desktop to select it) and added my Yamakasi as a second "extended display". It turned on! Great! No dead pixels and looking beautiful. But, when I unplugged my old monitor the Catleap wouldn't display anymore!

Solution: Go into Nvidia control panel (I'm assuming you have an Nvidia card like me). Go to "set up multiple displays". Remove the checkmark from your old display and click apply in the bottom right corner.

Voila! You've now changed the Yamakasi to be your primary monitor!

Hope that helps some of you!


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

I have the catleap by my old 24" dell 1920 x 1200 monitor. One glaring difference is the blue. The blue is so strong, and I have tried calibrating it using windows standard calibration tools. Is this normal? Have a laptop with led backlight and blues aren't this shifted.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Very nice man, what other hardware did you need to get it setup?


Are you using the profiles from the first post in this thread from toasty? The two 6500k and 65d are both blue shifted. I find that they are nice since it allows brightness to be turned up a bit. The native profile is far more yellow/red and shifts the blue out. You can also buy a monitor calibration tool if you dont already have one


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Hoggin' all the 2Bs, are ya?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hopefully I won't have to be jealous much longer if either Scribby's boards or the new 2Bs come through...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just about any old normal epoxy should do the trick, assuming it's not some specific silver-infused conductive version or something...
> Don't go overboard with it though, because it can impede cooling on the coils somewhat if they're completely embedded in it. You should also confirm it's not the coil buzzing against the metal cover as Scribby discovered (this may explain some, but not all cases of buzzing).


Sorry Dude, i had no idea what i was getting, just asked for 3 pixel perfect from cloth, Im only going by the box numbers, They all have 2b in the code and all overclock









Has anyone manged to overclock 3 at once in eyefinity or nvidia suround yet? ta


----------



## Whitespider999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Whitespider999*
> 
> The problem with me getting one of these monitors is that I have zero soldering/taking apart monitors confidence. So if it arrived with a problem - unless I did a bunch of research and took a chance with my unproven skillset (or lack thereof), I would pretty much be stuck with whatever I got.
> 
> 
> 
> And that's part of the risk in getting a monitor of these specs at this price point; there's no such thing as a free lunch. You want total confidence in your buy? Top-tier manufacturers (and their $700-$1000 price tags) are over that way
Click to expand...

That is true, good sir.

I did take a chance with my dell u2711. I got it for $AU 280. Including delivery. From ebay. The problem was that the screen flickered for 10-20 minutes when you first turned it on, it included no power cable. I hooked it up, and the flickering was there as described. I purchased a newer cable. Problem fixed.

rrp of 800-900 AU.

Same with my ps3, purchased the thing for like 100 bucks more than a year ago - the dvd drive did not work. I was going to use one from my friends broken ps3 - tested it after I received it. Drive did not work. Updated the bios. Drive worked.

The problem is, I can't just expect that I will get lucky simply because I have been so far. If there is a slight issue with my monitor will I disregard it? No way. I'll make the best of what I have.

I am sincerely hoping that it does not come to that however.

If i get a premium priced gtx 690 and it's anything other than working at 100%. That's when I'll make a stink.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Someone needs triple 6970 to run these babies. I'm selling my GPUs


----------



## tobsen26

Will i be able to overclock to 100Hz with my GTX 580 or do i need a GTX 680?


----------



## KenJit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I found with my 2C that pushing the refresh rate above 60 and close to its limit (67Hz or so) would produce an effect similar to image retention where the image would retain ghosts of old data for awhile; The problem seemed to not occur at refresh rates of 65Hz or lower, so I just left mine at 60 (those extra 5Hz are not worth the added judder in 30/60fps video playback). You may want to set yours back to 60, remove the high-refresh profiles and fully power cycle the monitor to clear it.
> Tough to say with just a description; can you post a picture?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> I found with my 2C that pushing the refresh rate above 60 and close to its limit (67Hz or so) would produce an effect similar to image retention where the image would retain ghosts of old data for awhile; The problem seemed to not occur at refresh rates of 65Hz or lower, so I just left mine at 60 (those extra 5Hz are not worth the added judder in 30/60fps video playback). You may want to set yours back to 60, remove the high-refresh profiles and fully power cycle the monitor to clear it.
> Tough to say with just a description; can you post a picture?


What do you mean by full power cycle?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenJit*
> 
> What do you mean by full power cycle?


I just mean unplug the monitor's power cord, leave it unplugged for a minute or two and plug it back in to clear anything that may be persisting in it.


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobsen26*
> 
> Will i be able to overclock to 100Hz with my GTX 580 or do i need a GTX 680?


I have both my 2b's running at 100hz off my 580's. You shouldn't have a problem.


----------



## Knob

Got my Catleap in the mail today! Ordered from bigcoth on Tuesday and got it on east coast today.

Did a fast hook up to my 6950. Works flawlessly. Actually makes my 23" LG IPS monitor look blah. Blows away my Asus TN 24". Feel like breaking my piggy bank more and ordering another at this price.

I will do a dead pixel test after work tonight. Got the monitor 2 hours before my shift started. Though as I knew was going to happen the higher res may lead me to replacing my 6950 with either 680 or 7000's series AMD card.

The stand as said 1000x by now sucks pretty bad though.


----------



## greatpolaris

Hi Im new to this bandwagon I also got the Catleap 2D a couple days ago I have no dead pixels or issues others are reporting, i tried the oc guide but it doesn't oc past 67 hz, I'm still pretty happy to see this amazing res at the price.


----------



## jpao

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knob*
> 
> Got my Catleap in the mail today! Ordered from bigcoth on Tuesday and got it on east coast today.
> Did a fast hook up to my 6950. Works flawlessly. Actually makes my 23" LG IPS monitor look blah. Blows away my Asus TN 24". Feel like breaking my piggy bank more and ordering another at this price.
> I will do a dead pixel test after work tonight. Got the monitor 2 hours before my shift started. Though as I knew was going to happen the higher res may lead me to replacing my 6950 with either 680 or 7000's series AMD card.
> The stand as said 1000x by now sucks pretty bad though.


So, is there like a go-to stand that everyone is getting for this monitor, or is everyone just either living with it or making their own stands? Because right now I'm really started to get annoyed by the stand, and my ghetto fix of surrounding all sides of the monitor except for the front with books to keep it from wobbling is getting ridiculous.


----------



## KenJit

Uninstalled all drivers and custom resolutions, let the monitor sit for another half a day, and voila. so far no issues of image retention. *CROSSES FINGERS*


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KenJit*
> 
> Uninstalled all drivers and custom resolutions, let the monitor sit for another half a day, and voila. so far no issues of image retention. *CROSSES FINGERS*


That's good









All these horror stories are making me not want to get one of these as much







I was relying on getting one of the 100hz guaranteed ones but looks like OCN screwed that up.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpao*
> 
> So, is there like a go-to stand that everyone is getting for this monitor, or is everyone just either living with it or making their own stands? Because right now I'm really started to get annoyed by the stand, and my ghetto fix of surrounding all sides of the monitor except for the front with books to keep it from wobbling is getting ridiculous.


Not really.

I went with the overkill (and really awesome) Ergotron MX desk arm. Way overkill. Way awesome monitor arm.


----------



## tael

Tempted to just go ahead and buy one now, while there might be a tiny of chance of getting a 2B still. Not too optimistic on the 100hz 'guaranteeds' anymore.
Not looking forward to going back down to 60hz though. Currently use a 120hz as my main/gaming monitor and a cheapo 60hz on the side.

Gah, decisions. I'm know I would still enjoy it at 60hz, but feels like such a lost opportunity now.


----------



## digitalforce

Anyone else try Diablo III beta at this resolution? I think the slow FPS is only affecting NVIDIA users..


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *digitalforce*
> 
> Anyone else try Diablo III beta at this resolution? I think the slow FPS is only affecting NVIDIA users..


Diablo3 is running great here.


----------



## Aguinas

Available? Its appearing on manufacturer's website doesn't mean its selling already. One of our hardware korean monitor listed this model gonna be out this month.









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It's been available for a while now and from its specs it isn't any better than the q270s. They are identical other than the panel type. I have no idea what a IPS in plane switching panel means, but there you go. To check out the complete specs - see the OP, click the manufacturer's link, click product/monitor from the top, scroll to the very bottom for the 27" LEDs. Enjoy!!
> 
> 
> 68.47cm(27형)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 최대해상도
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2560 X 1440
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 최대밝기
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 380cd/m²
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 명암비
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1000 :1
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 동적명암비
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 응답속도
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6ms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 시야각
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 178도(좌우) / 178도(상하)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 입력신호
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> DVI-D Dual Link
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 스피커
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 화면비율
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 16:9


----------



## komichi

I am considering returning my catleap, not sure whether or not I could get used to the eye strain I am getting.

Tried to lower the brightness via nvidia console but it's so tedious to switch from word processing to playing games lol.

Any suggestion? Maybe it would be cheaper to get a pair of gunnar optics for word processing?


----------



## KenJit

diablo 3 runs like a charm . no fps lag whatsoever all Utra settings. Running a 680 hydro copper


----------



## AnkerEde

Are there any news concerning the 2b pcbs?
i got my catleap a few days ago and im really satified with it. no dead pixels, very good backlight, no input lag. but i can only oc to 67Hz because i got a 2c model.
btw. im using a newstar fpma-d850black flatscreen desk mount. it cost only 30 € and has vesa mountings for 100 and 75mm.


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> I am considering returning my catleap, not sure whether or not I could get used to the eye strain I am getting.
> Tried to lower the brightness via nvidia console but it's so tedious to switch from word processing to playing games lol.
> Any suggestion? Maybe it would be cheaper to get a pair of gunnar optics for word processing?


Yeah i also suffer from this. Gaming is darn fine but when it comes to reading web pages and black on white, its a real eye strain,


----------



## bigmac11

Why is it straining your eyes?


----------



## Wunderwaffle

The white color is too bright compared to other colors. It is never on part with them. When reducing brightness to tone down the intensity of it, all other colours become very dull and non vibrant. I'm not sure if this a specific of IPS panels or the crappy calibration of the catleap(and lack of any osd whatsoever).


----------



## bigmac11

Man I hope I don't have that issue







My monitor should be here Wednesday and I really pray that everything goes well.


----------



## AnkerEde

just lower the brightness or change the color temperature. mine is at 6500k and full brightness and its just fine. i love my catleap.


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Are you refering to that 6500k ICC profile? If so, nvidia overrides it like np.


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> Is it just me or does anyone get a headache after like 3-4 hours of word processing? I don't notice flickering but my eyes are telling me that the flickering is killing it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> Hey'all! Just got a catleap and it is apparently the 2c speaker model. I cant see any dead pixels though there is a problem with it that makes it pretty much unusable for me: The brightness of the color white is just too strong. It makes my eyes hurt and i cant use the monitor. Ive tried to use the d65 custom color profile but it didnt help much with the agressive brightness of white colors issue. I've also tried using the on board brightness buttons to tone it down but it makes the image dull overall at the point when i can see white as non agressive and eye piercing. Ive also tried to use Powerstrip but it gives a red screen with a Gtx 680 because of the raw drivers. I'm completley baffled by this point and out of ideas.


I also get eye strain and headache watching this monitor, the same happened with my shimian (which I sold) actually it was worse with the shimian. Mr.pixel here has this problem too, and we think it must be related to the PWM dimming of the backlight that produce flickering, which is not visible to the naked eye, but can still lead to eye strain and headache for the ones whose are sensible to it (tftcentral article on PWM with led)

I'm looking into a solution to eliminate flickering, but the problem is that I lack knowledge in electronics







, what I think of is to create an analog constant current dimming driver to power the backlight, or a PWM one but with a very high switching frequency (ex: >2khz , catleap = 160hz).

Siberx mentioned the fact that with little modifications on the backlight driver of the catleap it might be possible to reduce flickering and said he was looking into it (it was in the last pages of the closed "catleap 100hz" thread)


----------



## zoomee

In terms of picture quality its very similar to my HP ZR24W but obviously with all the extra pixel space - I'm impressed!. I paid extra for a pixel quality checked one, and thankfully it paid off - no dead pixels, no evident light bleed either!

Only two things to note:
A)- Stand is wonky - lean to the right ever so slightly but easily resolvable
B)- No BIOS screen! eeeek! - It only shows up once the PC starts booting windows, so that might be a bit of a problem with my 7970 lol! - Think its something specific to do with Dual-DVI and ATI cards as nvidia cards don't have this problem (according to other research I've done).

In terms of was it worth it - HELL YEAH! - £300 all in for a pixel perfect 27" 1440p monitor was well worth it

Pics: (clickable thumbs)

  

  

  

  

You can see the extra pixel space I have over my previous 1920x1200 HPZR24W with the corsair background








Need to try some BF3 - finally something to tax my 7970!









Two issues:

A)- Minor slant to the right side
B)- Can't get no BIOS screen - only shows windows onwards.

Any help resolving the BIOS screen issue please? - I'm using a Sapphire 7970 connected via the Dual-Link DVI connector. PC boots ok, but only shows a display from windows boot screen onwards. I can't get into the BIOS! Tried using all the different adapters with the gfx card aswell (Mini-DP > DVI and HDMI > DVI) to no avail.

I've also tried the built-in Z68 motherboard DVI port but that just gives me a blank screen - nothing at all even in windows









thanks


----------



## Crezzlin

I use my monitors with 7970 xfire. I can see and use the bios also works ok on my brothets 5000 series card.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoomee*
> 
> In terms of picture quality its very similar to my HP ZR24W but obviously with all the extra pixel space - I'm impressed!. I paid extra for a pixel quality checked one, and thankfully it paid off - no dead pixels, no evident light bleed either!
> Only two things to note:
> A)- Stand is wonky - lean to the right ever so slightly but easily resolvable
> B)- No BIOS screen! eeeek! - It only shows up once the PC starts booting windows, so that might be a bit of a problem with my 7970 lol! - Think its something specific to do with Dual-DVI and ATI cards as nvidia cards don't have this problem (according to other research I've done).
> In terms of was it worth it - HELL YEAH! - £300 all in for a pixel perfect 27" 1440p monitor was well worth it
> Pics: (clickable thumbs)
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the extra pixel space I have over my previous 1920x1200 HPZR24W with the corsair background
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to try some BF3 - finally something to tax my 7970!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two issues:
> A)- Minor slant to the right side
> B)- Can't get no BIOS screen - only shows windows onwards.
> Any help resolving the BIOS screen issue please? - I'm using a Sapphire 7970 connected via the Dual-Link DVI connector. PC boots ok, but only shows a display from windows boot screen onwards. I can't get into the BIOS! Tried using all the different adapters with the gfx card aswell (Mini-DP > DVI and HDMI > DVI) to no avail.
> I've also tried the built-in Z68 motherboard DVI port but that just gives me a blank screen - nothing at all even in windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Maybe it has something to do with your motherboard, BIOS update??? What is your system specs


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlesK*
> 
> I also get eye and headache strain watching this monitor, the same happened with my old shimian (which I sold) actually it was worse with the shimian. Mr.pixel here have this problem too, and we think it must be related to the PWM dimming of the backlight that produce flickering, which is not visible to the naked eye, but can still lead to eye strain and headache for the ones whose are sensible to it (tftcentral article on PWM with led)
> I'm looking into a solution to eliminate flickering, but the problem is that I lack knowledge in electronics
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , what I think of is to create an analog constant current dimming driver to power the backlight, or a PWM one but with a very high switching frequency (ex: >2khz , catleap = 160hz).
> Siberx mentioned the fact that with little modifications on the backlight driver of the catleap it might be possible to reduce flickering and said he was looking into it (it was in the last pages of the closed "catleap 100hz" thread)


Interesting read though Ive heard about this PWM method before. From what I recall, there is an oscillator of some sort responsible for it.


----------



## Neo Mike

So do all ati cards have the cant see the bios screen and get into bios, thats a major problem.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neo Mike*
> 
> So do all ati cards have the cant see the bios screen and get into bios, thats a major problem.


No, it has worked fine on a 5870 and 7950 for me.


----------



## KaRLiToS

No problem with my triple 6970 too.

If it was my problem, I would try a motherboard BIOS update.


----------



## djxput

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> Yeah i also suffer from this. Gaming is darn fine but when it comes to reading web pages and black on white, its a real eye strain,


ya I just got my monitor yesterday and feel this same way ... wondering if I can live with this.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoomee*
> 
> In terms of picture quality its very similar to my HP ZR24W but obviously with all the extra pixel space - I'm impressed!. I paid extra for a pixel quality checked one, and thankfully it paid off - no dead pixels, no evident light bleed either!
> Only two things to note:
> A)- Stand is wonky - lean to the right ever so slightly but easily resolvable
> B)- No BIOS screen! eeeek! - It only shows up once the PC starts booting windows, so that might be a bit of a problem with my 7970 lol! - Think its something specific to do with Dual-DVI and ATI cards as nvidia cards don't have this problem (according to other research I've done).
> In terms of was it worth it - HELL YEAH! - £300 all in for a pixel perfect 27" 1440p monitor was well worth it
> Pics: (clickable thumbs)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You can see the extra pixel space I have over my previous 1920x1200 HPZR24W with the corsair background
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to try some BF3 - finally something to tax my 7970!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Two issues:
> A)- Minor slant to the right side
> B)- Can't get no BIOS screen - only shows windows onwards.
> Any help resolving the BIOS screen issue please? - I'm using a Sapphire 7970 connected via the Dual-Link DVI connector. PC boots ok, but only shows a display from windows boot screen onwards. I can't get into the BIOS! Tried using all the different adapters with the gfx card aswell (Mini-DP > DVI and HDMI > DVI) to no avail.
> I've also tried the built-in Z68 motherboard DVI port but that just gives me a blank screen - nothing at all even in windows
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


Interesting. It appears you have the left to right brightness issue as well. That is, the right side is significantly darker than the left on white backgrounds. Thats at least what it looks like looking at your pictures there. You didn't notice this?


----------



## Athex

I just ordered one and got it in the mail and it looks amazing, I just want to know what everyone is doing about the lack of anti-glare coatings? It is fine most of the time but sometimes its kinda bothersome? Were there certain sellers/models that had anti-glare on them?


----------



## Steelbarrage

Just ordered from dcsamsungmall so hopefully it gets here next week.
I had originally decided to wait for the 100Hz guaranteed but I have little faith in that occurring now.
Plus if Scribby can obtain some 2b boards I'll be all good.


----------



## eternal7trance

Can someone do a test for me? Hook a single link dvi cable up to this monitor and set the resolution to 1920x1080 or lower and let me know if a picture comes up. Thanks.

I can't do it on mine because it's broken.


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Just tried the cable. Cant get any image at all.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Athex*
> 
> I just ordered one and got it in the mail and it looks amazing, I just want to know what everyone is doing about the lack of anti-glare coatings? It is fine most of the time but sometimes its kinda bothersome? Were there certain sellers/models that had anti-glare on them?


These monitors generally come with no anti-glare coating; a couple people have received units with an anti-glare coating, but they ordered from normal auctions and weren't especially looking for them. There's no assured way to get an anti-glare version that I know of. Honestly I considered the lack of coating a downside before ordering, but after seeing it next to my PVA panel with an anti-glare the increased sharpness and reduced sparkliness is actually pretty nice; I see reflections sometimes, but it's not enough to be too distracting.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CharlesK*
> 
> Siberx mentioned the fact that with little modifications on the backlight driver of the catleap it might be possible to reduce flickering and said he was looking into it (it was in the last pages of the closed "catleap 100hz" thread)


You are correct - I have the monitor back together right now (mounted on my dual-arm ergotron LX stand, which is *amazing*) but the next time I have it apart I'll be investigating two things. Firstly I'll look into the backlight flickering (even though it doesn't bother me that much I can still detect it enough to see if I've made improvements or not) by increasing the capacitance on the backlight control line. Secondly I'll be looking into adding a manual brightness balance control that would allow people to tweak variation in brightness between each half of the monitor until they're totally even. A note that this probably *won't* help people with dramatic brightness differences and boards that don't have two backlight drivers (seems to be happening on some newer boards) - I don't have a good solution for that scenario yet but anybody who's having that issue can increase their chances of a fix by posting internals of their monitors so I can examine what they have.


----------



## zoomee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Maybe it has something to do with your motherboard, BIOS update??? What is your system specs


Thats what I was thinking too - probably a motherboard BIOS required - but unfortunately I'm already on the latest 1.20 version.

Specs are as follows:
[email protected](1.36v) - Custom water for CPU + GPU.
ASRock Extreme4 Gen3
16Gb Corsair Vengeance
Sapphire ATI 7970
Corsair 850W-TX etc etc
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Interesting. It appears you have the left to right brightness issue as well. That is, the right side is significantly darker than the left on white backgrounds. Thats at least what it looks like looking at your pictures there. You didn't notice this?


Definately no problem with brightness mate , i'd be the first to notice. Probably just a photo thing.
I double checked for dead pixels - Non at all, and also for backlight bleed (I'm anal about that!) and no probs there either.

Overall I'm very impressed - having played BF3 earlier the difference is like night and day using this baby as opposed to my older HPZR24W! - just this darn bios issue to resolve.....


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> Just tried the cable. Cant get any image at all.


Do you at least get a lit up black screen?


----------



## Athex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> These monitors generally come with no anti-glare coating; a couple people have received units with an anti-glare coating, but they ordered from normal auctions and weren't especially looking for them. There's no assured way to get an anti-glare version that I know of. Honestly I considered the lack of coating a downside before ordering, but after seeing it next to my PVA panel with an anti-glare the increased sharpness and reduced sparkliness is actually pretty nice; I see reflections sometimes, but it's not enough to be too distracting.
> You are correct - I have the monitor back together right now (mounted on my dual-arm ergotron LX stand, which is *amazing*) but the next time I have it apart I'll be investigating two things. Firstly I'll look into the backlight flickering (even though it doesn't bother me that much I can still detect it enough to see if I've made improvements or not) by increasing the capacitance on the backlight control line. Secondly I'll be looking into adding a manual brightness balance control that would allow people to tweak variation in brightness between each half of the monitor until they're totally even. A note that this probably *won't* help people with dramatic brightness differences and boards that don't have two backlight drivers (seems to be happening on some newer boards) - I don't have a good solution for that scenario yet but anybody who's having that issue can increase their chances of a fix by posting internals of their monitors so I can examine what they have.


Thanks Sibrex, I guess I will just block the light from the window you may have a good point there!
Overall I am very happy with this monitor things look amazing on it, everythings!


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zoomee*
> 
> Thats what I was thinking too - probably a motherboard BIOS required - but unfortunately I'm already on the latest 1.20 version.
> Specs are as follows:
> [email protected](1.36v) - Custom water for CPU + GPU.
> ASRock Extreme4 Gen3
> 16Gb Corsair Vengeance
> Sapphire ATI 7970
> Corsair 850W-TX etc etc
> Definately no problem with brightness mate , i'd be the first to notice. Probably just a photo thing.
> I double checked for dead pixels - Non at all, and also for backlight bleed (I'm anal about that!) and no probs there either.
> Overall I'm very impressed - having played BF3 earlier the difference is like night and day using this baby as opposed to my older HPZR24W! - just this darn bios issue to resolve.....


Perhaps I just have too many expecations out of a $340 monitor here but you CLEARLY have the brightness problem many people have:

http://s1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/zoomee/?action=view&current=20120420_183317.jpg

See how the right side is significantly darker than the left?

I'm starting to wonder if it was just designed this way


----------



## zoomee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Perhaps I just have too many expecations out of a $340 monitor here but you CLEARLY have the brightness problem many people have:
> http://s1022.photobucket.com/albums/af344/zoomee/?action=view&current=20120420_183317.jpg
> See how the right side is significantly darker than the left?
> I'm starting to wonder if it was just designed this way


Trust me mate, its a photo thing - There is complete uniformity in the brightness across the screen. You'll note my photo was taken at an angle.


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Do you at least get a lit up black screen?


yea its lit but black image. in fact, I've tried several dvi cables with the monitor and strangely, only the one that came with it works.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> yea its lit but black image. in fact, I've tried several dvi cables with the monitor and strangely, only the one that came with it works.


Well only a dvi dual link will work. I just wanted to see if you got the same thing I did.


----------



## bishop161

Hey guys, Just got mine in! Pretty pumped. It is 2C model that I bought from another OCN member who had got 2B versions.

Really impressed by this display. BTW I can confirm that it fully works with a 480gtx-bios an all.


----------



## CharlesK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> You are correct - I have the monitor back together right now (mounted on my dual-arm ergotron LX stand, which is *amazing*) but the next time I have it apart I'll be investigating two things. Firstly I'll look into the backlight flickering (even though it doesn't bother me that much I can still detect it enough to see if I've made improvements or not) by increasing the capacitance on the backlight control line. Secondly I'll be looking into adding a manual brightness balance control that would allow people to tweak variation in brightness between each half of the monitor until they're totally even. A note that this probably *won't* help people with dramatic brightness differences and boards that don't have two backlight drivers (seems to be happening on some newer boards) - I don't have a good solution for that scenario yet but anybody who's having that issue can increase their chances of a fix by posting internals of their monitors so I can examine what they have.


Thanks







, and yes, these monitors look really good when mounted on arms (I have 2 ergotron MX arms







)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MrBrax

Should i buy an Catleap?

I don't care about 100hz, since it just annoys me.
The taxes + customs is about $180.
No warranty..
Dead pixels, if it's common.
My 480 isn't listed in the supported cards list, but i don't think that matters.

Both pros and cons, this is making me sick.


----------



## Crezzlin

Ha I got no fees







and I got 3 of them... Just bloody order one


----------



## mybadomen

I am lost ? Are these Monitors like really awesome or something? I did Google it and watched some video's but they seemed very expensive.Not cheap at all.

Am i missing something? I never really cared what monitor i was using as long as it looked good. But how much better are these?" Compared to say 3 Acer monitors for roughly the same price as 1 of these?

Not being rude i just never really thought of the monitor much. I just see one that looks good and but it if its good priced?

I know we all have our obsessions though so nothing against it at all. It was cool enough to get me reading and watching videos on it.

But can someone explain it to me a little ? What the real life difference is?

Does it look better? or whats the the great part? I think overclocking anything is awesome that's what got me interested in the post to begin with







but why a monitor i don't know.

Thanks guys


----------



## cruisx

whats the cheapest video card i can buy to use with this monitor? My 480 will take 2 weeks to rma and i need to be able to use this monitor with my pc. (Excluding the gaming performance, just to display)


----------



## Crezzlin

Asus HD 5450 SILENT 512MB £20 new lol

As for the Monitor I would never go back, I have 3 hannsG 28" monitors and a Hazro 30" and I would pick the Catleap over all of them, the picture is stunning, I paid £270 ( pixel perfect) each for mine all in, just asked to put value at £100 and gift...


----------



## MrBrax

Still worried about dead pixels, got one on my phone and its driving me nuts.


----------



## mybadomen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Asus HD 5450 SILENT 512MB £20 new lol
> As for the Monitor I would never go back, I have 3 hannsG 28" monitors and a Hazro 30" and I would pick the Catleap over all of them, the picture is stunning, I paid £270 ( pixel perfect) each for mine all in, just asked to put value at £100 and gift...


cool just curious. because i spent allot way back i think it was $899.00 for a 19 inch Sony that looked amazing when X Brite first came out. but after a while it never really mattered to me what monitor i was on.As long as it looked good. I am on some cheap Hannspree 23" i picked up on sale for $129. and have been very happy with it. Then i have my PC also hooked to my 55" Toshiba

Maby i am just going blind in my old age because they all look somewhat the same to me nowadays


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> cool just curious. because i spent allot way back i think it was $899.00 for a 19 inch Sony that looked amazing when X Brite first came out. but after a while it never really mattered to me what monitor i was on.As long as it looked good. I am on some cheap Hannspree 23" i picked up on sale for $129. and have been very happy with it. Then i have my PC also hooked to my 55" Toshiba
> Maby i am just going blind in my old age because they all look somewhat the same to me nowadays


Its the pixels per inch, like an iPhone 4 vs some cheap cell phone. Viewing distances typically negate this, but since you sit close to monitors you can start to see pixels, these have 3,686,400 pixels vs. 2,073,600 pixels on 1080P screens. Its entirely different. If you have an Apple store nearby, go look at the 27" iMac and you'll see almost exactly what this looks like.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Asus HD 5450 SILENT 512MB £20 new lol
> As for the Monitor I would never go back, I have 3 hannsG 28" monitors and a Hazro 30" and I would pick the Catleap over all of them, the picture is stunning, I paid £270 ( pixel perfect) each for mine all in, just asked to put value at £100 and gift...
> 
> 
> 
> cool just curious. because i spent allot way back i think it was $899.00 for a 19 inch Sony that looked amazing when X Brite first came out. but after a while it never really mattered to me what monitor i was on.As long as it looked good. I am on some cheap Hannspree 23" i picked up on sale for $129. and have been very happy with it. Then i have my PC also hooked to my 55" Toshiba
> 
> Maby i am just going blind in my old age because they all look somewhat the same to me nowadays
Click to expand...

Yeah I had that problem always changing my displays but the ips is like looking out the window to me







very sharp


----------



## Knob

Ended up mounting mine on my second monoprice LCD mount. Great mount for $17 bucks.


----------



## Knob

Also, no dead pixel that my brief tests could tell. Had my anal friend check it out and he was pretty amazed as well. He said it has a LG panel in it? He did not believe me until we had to take the whole thing apart to get the cheap gray cover blocking the monitor mounts.


----------



## fimmwolf

OK so I've been reading this for a while now and I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and order one. My question is how do we get(order) the PCB's that are mentioned on the front page. Or am I better off just waiting another month till they are producing 100 Hz models again?


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fimmwolf*
> 
> OK so I've been reading this for a while now and I think I'm gonna bite the bullet and order one. My question is how do we get(order) the PCB's that are mentioned on the front page. Or am I better off just waiting another month till they are producing 100 Hz models again?


The PCBs mentioned in the thread aren't available yet, and it isn't a sure thing that they will be at all.
The 100hz monitors are possibly in worse shape, as the admins decided to close the thread on it and take over the situation, I don't think they have given any updates or further information about it.

Might just not be able to get the 80-120hz monitors anymore.


----------



## fimmwolf

argh, damn.

I was looking forward to that great resolution and better refresh rate. My current monitor (Samsung 226BW) is running at 60Hz on 1680 x 1050


----------



## NameMakingSux

Wow. I just made 3 offers for a pixel perfect monitor from bigclothwhatever. last one was 410 and still auto declined. That's pretty pathetic considering the monitor is listed at under 430. He should remove the best offer option if he's going to auto refuse reasonable offers. Guess i'll buy from someone else.

Wondering if I should get one of these or a crossover. The stand on the crossover makes them very tempting.


----------



## mybadomen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Yeah I had that problem always changing my displays but the ips is like looking out the window to me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> very sharp


Sweet! They sound pretty awesome but afraid out of my budget.Anything i get goes into Case Modding .Only time i am really on the PC is to come on here or a few clubs i am in and of course i do try all the new games but usually just the Campaign is all i have time for.

Maybe some day because it does sound cool.


----------



## CallsignVega

Is 100 Hz still the limit for GTX 680 SLI?


----------



## evangelionstar

Damn infuriating for OCN to come in that late in the game and take over when they could have done so right from the beginning.

What is happening with that though? Is anything being made by yamakasi? If so when are they being released? If the original schedule was even remotely realistic and they had decided to produce it then it should be available in about 2 weeks.

There doesnt seem to be any real update since last post by bqvle and now this by the mods/admins.

Scribby any update on your boards?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Is 100 Hz still the limit for GTX 680 SLI?


Yep, until Nvidia changes it.


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> See how the right side is significantly darker than the left?
> I'm starting to wonder if it was just designed this way


As it has already been reported here there is a flaw in the design of Catleap's backlight scheme. AFAIK every Catleap has this flaw, but the backlight issue appears itself in a randomly way. I mean that the majority of users never see any unevenness, somewhere it can be slightly visible at low level of brightness but also there are some samples where it shows itself in extremely dramatic way.
Mine is really bad:

Increasing the brightness some steps up smooths the difference but the high level of brightness makes my eyes strain. Moreover, I can still see the difference at any level of brightness yet. Every time when I am looking through a forum with a grey background(OCN for example) I can easy distinguish a huge luminous yellow area and it's driving me nuts. Curiously, I cannot see any backlight bleeding with black background.
If you have some soldering skills you can try to fix the "left to right brightness" (avoid warranty of course). My soldering skills are zero unfortunately. Just read siberx's guide based on DASM's idea:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2310#post_16911932
Now I am seriously considering returning my display. I just wanna be sure that it can be named "faulty". Besides two tiny spots which are apparently dust specks (note: mine is non tempered glass screen(!)), that uneven backlight makes me crazy.
I am going to send it back and ask for a replacement. I think i have a right to do so.


----------



## technoir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Ha I got no fees
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and I got 3 of them... Just bloody order one


Hi Crezzlin - can you tell me what the value of each monitor was put down as?


----------



## djxput

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tael*
> 
> The PCBs mentioned in the thread aren't available yet, and it isn't a sure thing that they will be at all.
> The 100hz monitors are possibly in worse shape, as the admins decided to close the thread on it and take over the situation, I don't think they have given any updates or further information about it.
> Might just not be able to get the 80-120hz monitors anymore.


It didnt sound like it was from a 'worse' shape - it sounded like it was because of a financial issue and perhaps liabilty - seems like alot more people are getting 2c or 2d versions.


----------



## Aguinas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urliam*
> 
> As it has already been reported here there is a flaw in the design of Catleap's backlight scheme. AFAIK every Catleap has this flaw, but the backlight issue appears itself in a randomly way. I mean that the majority of users never see any unevenness, somewhere it can be slightly visible at low level of brightness but also there are some samples where it shows itself in extremely dramatic way.
> Mine is really bad:
> 
> Increasing the brightness some steps up smooths the difference but the high level of brightness makes my eyes strain. Moreover, I can still see the difference at any level of brightness yet. Every time when I am looking through a forum with a grey background(OCN for example) I can easy distinguish a huge luminous yellow area and it's driving me nuts. Curiously, I cannot see any blacklight bleeding with black background.
> If you have some soldering skills you can try to fix the "left to right brightness" (avoid warranty of course). My soldering skills are zero unfortunately. Just read siberx's guide based on DASM's idea:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2310#post_16911932
> Now I am seriously considering returning my display. I just wanna be sure that it can be named "faulty". Besides two tiny spots which are apparently dust specks (note: mine is non tempered glass screen(!)), that uneven backlight makes me crazy.
> I am going to send it back and ask for a replacement. I think i have a right to do so.


If you don't mind wasting money by sending it back, good luck to you.


----------



## komichi

How much does it cost to send a unit back, approximately?


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> I am lost ? Are these Monitors like really awesome or something? I did Google it and watched some video's but they seemed very expensive.Not cheap at all.
> Am i missing something? I never really cared what monitor i was using as long as it looked good. But how much better are these?" Compared to say 3 Acer monitors for roughly the same price as 1 of these?
> Not being rude i just never really thought of the monitor much. I just see one that looks good and but it if its good priced?
> I know we all have our obsessions though so nothing against it at all. It was cool enough to get me reading and watching videos on it.
> But can someone explain it to me a little ? What the real life difference is?
> Does it look better? or whats the the great part? I think overclocking anything is awesome that's what got me interested in the post to begin with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but why a monitor i don't know.
> Thanks guys


A lot of the information your looking for is in the original post (see page 1). These types of monitors 2560x1440 @ 27" are upwards of $700 in retail. You get it in less than a week from Korea for half price. Also note that this is an IPS LED panel so nice and thin as well as great colors. Input lag is another benefit for ones with the single DVI-D dual link connector and no OSD. It is very low due to the lack of scaler and great for an gaming LCD monitor (one of the reasons I bought this). Haven't checked the pricing of 3 acer lcds (what size, resolution, ips, etc) maybe more like 2 vs 3, since these are going for less than $350 shipped now. The key for me is the resolution again (think retina display vs normal tablets), ips (if your into photos) and no bezels (compared to the 3x lcd set-up). OC'ing this is the icing on the cake, but also see the input lag section on the OP about the impact to video. One thing to be aware of is the impact of the higher resolution on your frame rates. I thought buying a 470gtx two years ago would last me a while since it easily maxed out my 1080p monitor and since that was my native resolution there was no need to go higher till I bought a new monitor. Might end up going with 2 of the 100Hz ones if/when they come out. I just love the extra realestate on the 2560x1440 (pictures, webpages, coding, etc). As for games a nice trade off is to turn off AA to get more HP, since the higher resolution and tighter pixels makes up to avoid jaggies.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> cool just curious. because i spent allot way back i think it was $899.00 for a 19 inch Sony that looked amazing when X Brite first came out. but after a while it never really mattered to me what monitor i was on.As long as it looked good. I am on some cheap Hannspree 23" i picked up on sale for $129. and have been very happy with it. Then i have my PC also hooked to my 55" Toshiba
> Maby i am just going blind in my old age because they all look somewhat the same to me nowadays


I know what you mean. Did the same for flat diamond-tron 20" when it first came out then prices dropped like crazy. I agree with you that panel prices do drop quickly, but the market in Korea and WW for LCD is depressed already. I think prices on these types of displays will get cheaper, but more like from the $700 to $400 as you would be buying now. These types of displays are in less demand since the sweet spot is 1080p due to video. I know Intel is pushing for higher resolution displays, but that will take a year or two and I think they won't go mainstream till something like the follow on standard for HD video comes. I also picked up a cheap Auria 26" which I bought for $200 on sale two years back. I got it for the 1920x1200 resolution. It had a couple of dead pixel and the a strong blue tint. It is also not an IPS panel. So if I get the 2x 100Hz Catleaps, I'll move the 2C (65Hz max) to my wife's room to replace the Auria and move the Auria to my living room for the kids. Then I can throw out the junky 32" 720p Oliviea I got for $300. Sigh... Yes, the darn upgrade bug has got me again.

Since I'm typing this on my dual display set-up (40" Samsung HDTV TN 1920x1080 and Catleap 27" IPS 2560x1440) and had a nice native 2560x1440 wallpaper in the background that really showed the difference between the two displays. I attached picture does not do the actual colors justice (deeper, richer - tough lighting with bright sunlight outside and forgive my mess). It does serve a good comparison between the displays in regards to resolution (see how much more you see of the wallpaper on the right) and the difference in sharpness and color. Good luck with your decision.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *komichi*
> 
> How much does it cost to send a unit back, approximately?


I'd guess 70+ to ship it by air. Surface might be a bit cheaper, but could take a month. Not really worth it unless you got a DOA. I luckily got a perfect screen, but my plan was to sell it on Craigslist if I didn't like it. Might be cheaper than the hassle and cost to return it.


----------



## tobsen26

I am about to buy such one but i am still not knowing witch manufactor. Yamakai or Achiva or Crossover. The Crossover seems to have the best stand, but there will be no PCB upgrade, like it could come for Yamakasi.









Which one would u buy and from which seller?


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobsen26*
> 
> I am about to buy such one but i am still not knowing witch manufactor. Yamakai or Achiva or Crossover. The Crossover seems to have the best stand, but there will be no PCB upgrade, like it could come for Yamakasi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which one would u buy and from which seller?


Your on the Catleap club so the answer is pretty obvious. If your worried about the stand then there a lot of alternatives. I'm using the monoprice one for $20. Catleap was cheaper than Crossover when I bought it, so even with the stand I think there about a wash. You then get a better stand.

Here is the info on the stands that I compiled: http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2010#post_16862111


----------



## sfsilicon

Having problems with the invalid character error, with the original stand post. I think this the post is too big and is really hitting a character size limit that is being incorrectly reported back as an invalid character error, so to test this I will be splitting the thread up into two.

*Catleap Stand Information - Part 2 of 2* (click here for Part 1)

_Part 1:
- Stand quality & videos
- Stand Tilting
- VESA shorting
- Plywood mod
- Portrait mounting issues_

*Alternate Stands*

*Single*

Monoprice 3 Way Adjustable Tilting Desk Mount Bracket for LCD LED (sfsilicon) [user pics 1 + pics 2 + review]
Ergotron mx desk mount (erocker) [user pics]
VideoSecu Computer Monitor TV Wall mount bracket (ScribbyDaGreat) [user pics 1 + pics 2]
3M easy monitor stand (Demented) [user pics 1 + pics 2]
Monoprice wall mount
VideoSecu Articulating Arm LED LCD TV Wall Mount (Nyghtryder_9) [user pics]
Monoprice Adjustable Tilting SINGLE Desk Mount Bracket for LCD LED (omekon) [user pics]
*Dual*

eBay Deluxe Dual LCD Monitor Stand Free Standing - Up to 28" (Aquineas) [user pics]
Anyarm Dual Monitor stand (P33k) [user pics + additional info]

*Triple*

2x MDM11S Single LCD Monitor Desk Mount + 1x LCD201 LED/LCD TV Wall Bracket (Crezzlin) [user pics 1]
Monoprice 3 single stands [none Catleap user pics]
Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Free Standing Supports up to 3 28" [no user pics]
Ergotech Triple Desk Stand with Telescopic Wings [no user pics]


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobsen26*
> 
> I am about to buy such one but i am still not knowing witch manufactor. Yamakai or Achiva or Crossover. The Crossover seems to have the best stand, but there will be no PCB upgrade, like it could come for Yamakasi.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which one would u buy and from which seller?


Its the Yamakasi catLeap Club so people here will tell you to get the CatLeap.

I tell you, Get the Crossover. I bought 3 and the 3 are astonishing. No dead pixel, and the stand is not sagging like the catleap. I can choose the height I want and ITS SOLID.

I bought from Red-cap for around 395$ (Best offer) and I was very happy with that seller and the comminication.

I wanted the catleap at first because it was cheaper, but after I read the Stands were garbage. I decided to go with the crossover. I see less people getting bad pixel than Catleap owners.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Its the Yamakasi catLeap Club so people here will tell you to get the CatLeap.


AMEN!







The larger user base means more support and sharing in the community, see PCB upgrade OC'ing tips, OP, etc.

Quote:


> I tell you, Get the Crossover. I bought 3 and the 3 are astonishing. No dead pixel, and the stand is not sagging like the catleap. I can choose the height I want and ITS SOLID.
> I bought from Red-cap for around 395$ (Best offer) and I was very happy with that seller and the comminication.
> I wanted the catleap at first because it was cheaper, but after I read the Stands were garbage. I decided to go with the crossover. I see less people getting bad pixel than Catleap owners.


If your desk supports it, I would get this:

Crossover = 3x $395 = $1185
Catleap = 3x $330-340 (best offer for 3) + 3x Monoprice stand $25 (incl ship + tax) = $1095

This assumes your ok with removing the Catleap stand and your desk supports a clamp mount. More flexible, solid stand and $90 cheaper. Getting deadpixels is pretty much a crap shoot, so one brand is pretty much the same as the next. I'm guessing there are more people buying Catleaps, so you see more people having trouble. As always it is up to you and your personal choice. I just love the set-up below and given my limited options to add a second monitor the monoprice stand really delivered.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Yep, until Nvidia changes it.


I am not convinced that over 100 Hz would be beneficial anyway. I could see the bump from 60 Hz to the 90-100 range being beneficial, but the 100-120 Hz range you are actually refreshing faster than the pixel response time. IMO 90-100 Hz should be the sweet spot.

Has anyone that has a 120 Hz monitor notice any difference between say 100 Hz?

Thinking about getting one of these B models just to play around with.


----------



## KaRLiToS

..........


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Sorry* but Those arms are pretty darn ugly.


I don't think they're ugly, just the fact that his desk is in a position that makes the arms highly visible. I was thinking of getting those arms for myself but they looked so slouched down. They wouldn't be so bad if the desk was against the wall, but the slouching part just wrecks it. I'm thinking of getting this if I end up going surround.


----------



## holic-lolic

Recently, I think there are many reports of the monitor with a defect of the backlight.
Looking at an effective solution for it, this is just a defect of the PCB board.
The LCD panel is that there is no problem, it is lucky and regrettable.

I bought a Catleap once, it was not a problem. But It is uneasy that buy it again.


----------



## sfsilicon

*Input Lag/Video Playback/Overclocking Part 2 of 2* (Click here for Part 1)

Splitting up the Input Lag / Video Playback post to allow adding of more content.

_Part 1:
- Input Lag comparison chart
- Gaming input lag
- 60Hz vs Overclocked comparison
- Why higher Hz matters so much for gamers who play FPS, Simulator, RTS, and many MMORGs
- Overclocking, Step-by-Step and Videos_



Spoiler: Video Playback / Judder



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> One important thing to keep in mind about doing a mild overclock to 65Hz is that while it while produce slightly smoother framerates overall (with a very slight reduction in input lag) it will misalign your refresh rate with standard video framerates of 30fps and 60fps. This means that, for example, watching a 30fps video on youtube will suddenly exhibit a lot more judder, the same way watching a 24fps video on 60Hz would. The holy grail is, of course, to run at 120Hz; this refresh rate is evenly divisible by 24, 30 and 60 fps - resulting in smooth playback of all common framerate formats (at least in north america). Since we currently can't hit that with any halfway decent panel, it's good to keep in mind that your video playback can be worsened by overclocking to uneven numbers; to play 24fps content smoothly you'd want to run at 48, 72 or 96Hz, and to play 30fps content smoothly you'd want to either use 60Hz or 90Hz.
> If you're only aiming at improving your gaming experience with no concern for video playback (or don't mind switching between refresh rates depending on what you're doing) then by all means crank it up to whatever is stable!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I know that 120hz looks better in games because it makes them look smoother. But how is it for watching movies? I watch a lot of movies / series on the computer monitor, which are usually in 24p (24 frames per second). Does going from 60hz to 120hz make a difference in how movies are shown?*
> 
> Yes - it will make them look better. The reason is that 60 is not evenly divisible by 24; this results in judder where a particular frame of a 24 fps video is shown for a differing number of screen frames, resulting in a distracting "jerky" effect. This problem doesn't affect 24fps films shown in theatres as they run their projection systems at multiples of the video's framerate, so frame delivery is even. 120 *is* evenly divisible by 24, so each video frame is shown for exactly 5 frames instead of 2 or 3 frames alternately. Of course, this only helps you at exactly 120Hz (which is conveniently evenly divisible by 24, 30 and 60) but you can also improve the smoothness of your 24fps video by setting your refresh rate to 72Hz or 96Hz if you can't quite reach 120Hz (although this won't make you evenly divisible by 30/60, so you'll have to switch back for smooth frame delivery of content authored at those framerates).
> 
> When will people get over this? Seriously; there's nothing objectively better about low framerate; AT ALL. It's simply a habituation thing. Films would be more immersive and convincing at a higher framerate, period. Will it take big name directors switching to higher framerates to finally convince people? They couldn't figure it out on their own?


Chinese TV on non-OC Catleap




Movie on non-OC Catleap










Spoiler: non-OC PC gaming videos



Battlefield 3 Videos









Other videos










Spoiler: OC'ed PC gaming videos



Planetside 105Hz





World of Warcraft 1440p














Spoiler: PS3 Gaming @ 1080p on HDMI Catleap



Click here for DreamTwister's review and videos.





Spoiler: 1440p and 4k videos for your Catleap



YouTube supports 4k uploads. Look for videos with "4k" in their title and select "Original" in the quality menu and go full screen. Watch-out these files requires a fast internet connection.

Timescapes 4k mp4 download


----------



## djxput

Ive been sitting here debating if I even like my catleap -
whole matte vs glossy display ...
Ive noticed some eye strain with using my minitor and I dont notice any with my matte; wondering if its the glossy or the panel (saw someone else post about this).
Right now I have my catleap hooked up and my oldish asus TN (matte) and comparing - notice alot of differences between the two.


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aguinas*
> 
> If you don't mind wasting money by sending it back, good luck to you.


In your opinion, what should I do else? How do you think? I know it is a cheap product, but I have just realized that I can't get used to its defects. I can't stand with that uneven backlight.
I actually wouldn't mind wasting some money if only I knew that the next would be a perfect one. Without any dust and backlight issue though.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urliam*
> 
> In your opinion, what should I do else? How do you think? I know it is a cheap product, but I have just realized that I can't get used to its defects. I can't stand with that uneven backlight.
> I actually wouldn't mind wasting some money if only I knew that the next would be a perfect one. Without any dusty and backlight issue though.


I think there is a mod for the backlight issue, but it looked like a soldering type mod. Do a thread search for backlight and you should find it.

I'd check with your seller to see what he recommends in this case. He might refund you some money to avoid the hassle of handling a return then you can sell it on craigslist and get a new one.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> *Sorry* but Those arms are pretty darn ugly. I don't know if its your setup, but you messed up everything. I didnt have to scratch my head to mount anything. I prefer paying higher for quality Pivot than those arms.
> Look at my setup, sometime, you have to pay more for quality. Its my opinion. And the arms you are showing are just ugly, better get the CrossOver.


Nice set-up. So the crossover supports rotation into portrait mode? Cool, if so. Just picking on you for pitching a Crossover on the Catleap board, though I can see why.









Not my set-up. I only have one Catleap and a 40" Samsung HDTV (mine is here). The monoprice stand is being used to place the Catleap on the left of my 40" since there is no more space on the table. I didn't want to do a wall mount and with this stand I didn't have too. If I were to get a second (monitor - don't think I will need eyefinity) then I'd get a second monoprice to match the first. Due to the stands flexibility it will work with my corner desk and hopefully find other uses for it in the future. The only problem I have with the stand is the size of the clamp was meant for a thinker desk. I do like its look, though I doubt I will see it much behind the monitor once everything is set-up.

The monoprice stand is great for the price, same way the Catleap is great for the price. If I can get the Catleap without a stand for less money then it would be an even better buy. I'm the type of guy that will buy a $200 CPU and OC it and laugh at the folks that buy the $800 one.







Not because I don't have the money, but because I don't have to and I'm willing to take the risk. That is just me. If you like a deal talk to me, if you like quality, style and low hassle, get an Apple.


----------



## mystigiandoll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I am not convinced that over 100 Hz would be beneficial anyway. I could see the bump from 60 Hz to the 90-100 range being beneficial, but the 100-120 Hz range you are actually refreshing faster than the pixel response time. IMO 90-100 Hz should be the sweet spot.
> Has anyone that has a 120 Hz monitor notice any difference between say 100 Hz?
> Thinking about getting one of these B models just to play around with.


It was a good chunk of posts back but I believe they did say there was a bit of a difference.


----------



## eshiku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urliam*
> 
> As it has already been reported here there is a flaw in the design of Catleap's backlight scheme. AFAIK every Catleap has this flaw, but the backlight issue appears itself in a randomly way. I mean that the majority of users never see any unevenness, somewhere it can be slightly visible at low level of brightness but also there are some samples where it shows itself in extremely dramatic way.
> Mine is really bad:
> 
> Increasing the brightness some steps up smooths the difference but the high level of brightness makes my eyes strain. Moreover, I can still see the difference at any level of brightness yet. Every time when I am looking through a forum with a grey background(OCN for example) I can easy distinguish a huge luminous yellow area and it's driving me nuts. Curiously, I cannot see any backlight bleeding with black background.
> If you have some soldering skills you can try to fix the "left to right brightness" (avoid warranty of course). My soldering skills are zero unfortunately. Just read siberx's guide based on DASM's idea:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2310#post_16911932
> Now I am seriously considering returning my display. I just wanna be sure that it can be named "faulty". Besides two tiny spots which are apparently dust specks (note: mine is non tempered glass screen(!)), that uneven backlight makes me crazy.
> I am going to send it back and ask for a replacement. I think i have a right to do so.


i have the exact same problem as you, left side is much darker. Was yours from bigclothcraft?


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I am not convinced that over 100 Hz would be beneficial anyway. I could see the bump from 60 Hz to the 90-100 range being beneficial, but the 100-120 Hz range you are actually refreshing faster than the pixel response time. IMO 90-100 Hz should be the sweet spot.
> Has anyone that has a 120 Hz monitor notice any difference between say 100 Hz?
> Thinking about getting one of these B models just to play around with.


Check the input lag link in my sig. Lots on info and vids so you can make your own opinion. 120Hz is the magic number for video. For Games it might be less of a benefit from 100-120Hz, but it never hurts. I think your bigger problem will be maintaining the framerate unless you already have a GX680.


----------



## nemal101

Just received my Catleap! So excited. It looks amazing but I agree the stand is crap. No dead pixels and I haven't noticed any other issues except I don't have any wallpapers for this resolution haha. I paid for it on Wednesday and got it this morning at about 7:30am (GMT +12) so pretty bloody fast shipping if you ask me


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> I think there is a mod for the backlight issue, but it looked like a soldering type mod. Do a thread search for backlight and you should find it.
> I'd check with your seller to see what he recommends in this case. He might refund you some money to avoid the hassle of handling a return then you can sell it on craigslist and get a new one.


I know about the mod but I have no soldering skills. Thanks for an advice anyway. I have already contacted the seller but have not received an answers yet. I don't have an idea how much of a refund should be expected. Personally I wouldn't even buy it for half-price. I wish I had flawless for full price from the beginning, but no luck.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> i have the exact same problem as you, left side is much darker. Was yours from bigclothcraft?


No, mine from dream-seller.


----------



## Sfuor

*sfsilicon*, *urliam* your serial is 2C right?
Does someone have this backlight issue with 2D serial?


----------



## seb87

i'm looking for an Ips 27" monitor for cad and graphics...and little gaming...

there's someone who has the dell u2711 before this ?

they are still comparable ?


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfuor*
> 
> *urliam* your serial is 2C right?


right you are.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seb87*
> 
> i'm looking for an Ips 27" monitor for cad and graphics...and little gaming...
> there's someone who has the dell u2711 before this ?
> they are still comparable ?


U2711 sticks with CCFL technology: 8bit+A-FRC, matte LM270WQ2 enhanced CCFL AdobeRGB *vs* Catleap: 8bit WhiteLED, glossy LM270WQ1 sRGB. They are different enough. I heard from the guy who has got both of them that he prefers U2711 for Photoshop etc., and Catleap for net surfing, document jobs.
Catleap worths its money definitely.


----------



## mysterfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfuor*
> 
> *sfsilicon*, *urliam* your serial is 2C right?
> Does someone have this backlight issue with 2D serial?


I have a 2D, mine doesn't have any uneven lighting issues, just a little light bleed when the screen is blacked out.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfuor*
> 
> *sfsilicon*, *urliam* your serial is 2C right?
> Does someone have this backlight issue with 2D serial?


No issue with mine.


----------



## mystigiandoll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> Check the input lag link in my sig. Lots on info and vids so you can make your own opinion. 120Hz is the magic number for video. For Games it might be less of a benefit from 100-120Hz, but it never hurts. I think your bigger problem will be maintaining the framerate unless you already have a GX680.


You obviously haven't been keeping up on Vega's heavyweight build







His problem will never be PC power lets just put it that way.


----------



## onesweetmullet

I purchased a Yamakasi Catleap 27" monitor last week and have been loving it! I ultimately would like to have a second one to run a dual monitor setup, but I have a reservation:

I generally power off my screens when I'm done with them for the day (hit the power button). Upon powering up the monitor again, I was presented with a stuck screen full of garbled bars. After turning it off and back on again, the problem went away. I worry that if the monitor keeps doing this, eventually it won't turn on correctly again. Is this a monitor issue or GPU issue?

I'm using an eVGA GeForce Ti 560 448 core FTW edition.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sfuor*
> 
> *sfsilicon*, *urliam* your serial is 2C right?
> Does someone have this backlight issue with 2D serial?


I have a 2c.


----------



## SmaShTr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onesweetmullet*
> 
> I purchased a Yamakasi Catleap 27" monitor last week and have been loving it! I ultimately would like to have a second one to run a dual monitor setup, but I have a reservation:
> I generally power off my screens when I'm done with them for the day (hit the power button). Upon powering up the monitor again, I was presented with a stuck screen full of garbled bars. After turning it off and back on again, the problem went away. I worry that if the monitor keeps doing this, eventually it won't turn on correctly again. Is this a monitor issue or GPU issue?
> I'm using an eVGA GeForce Ti 560 448 core FTW edition.


Do you cut off the power to the monitor in any way (like switching off a regulator, battery backup, etc)? If you do, just wait a few seconds after you restore power before turing on the monitor. It is normal behavior for this particular unit.


----------



## onesweetmullet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmaShTr*
> 
> Do you cut off the power to the monitor in any way (like switching off a regulator, battery backup, etc)? If you do, just wait a few seconds after you restore power before turing on the monitor. It is normal behavior for this particular unit.


No, I simply push the power button on the monitor itself. When the screen came on with garbled bars like that, I waited 10-15 seconds but it never resolved itself. Only after I powered it back off and back on again did it work correctly.

This is normal behavior?


----------



## SmaShTr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onesweetmullet*
> 
> No, I simply push the power button on the monitor itself. When the screen came on with garbled bars like that, I waited 10-15 seconds but it never resolved itself. Only after I powered it back off and back on again did it work correctly.
> This is normal behavior?


I do get the garbled bars if I cut off power to the monitor as I described, and turn the monitor immediately after I restore power. If I wait a few seconds this doesn't happen. I always thought it could be an issue with the power adapter (theory being that it takes a little while for output to be stabilized, since these are in reality made for Korea). Maybe you could try replacing the AC adapter with one of those sold on Amazon or eBay (quite a few people in this forum have chosen to replace it with those).


----------



## mystigiandoll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *onesweetmullet*
> 
> No, I simply push the power button on the monitor itself. When the screen came on with garbled bars like that, I waited 10-15 seconds but it never resolved itself. Only after I powered it back off and back on again did it work correctly.
> This is normal behavior?


I know other people have reported the same thing so I know you are not the only one who gets that issue. I don't remember anyone fully resolving it except for powering it off and then back on like you are doing.


----------



## onesweetmullet

So it's nothing I should be too worried about then? If so, that's definitely a relief.

My plan is to keep using this one for a month or two before ordering a second one in the event that there's any other sketchy behavior.


----------



## eshiku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mysterfix*
> 
> I have a 2D, mine doesn't have any uneven lighting issues, just a little light bleed when the screen is blacked out.


mine is 2D, i have uneveness and right bottom corner have light bleed


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> i have the exact same problem as you, left side is much darker. Was yours from bigclothcraft?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eshiku*
> 
> mine is 2D, i have uneveness and right bottom corner have light bleed


Have you discussed it with your seller yet? I had and I was being asked to send the photos, then silence. I have been waiting an answer for 2 business days. Still waiting, no answer yet.
Please keep me informed if you get any news from yours.


----------



## atmosfar

I think the colour settings on my catleap might be a bit messed up. I think I applied the calibrated ICM from the OP, but anyway when I look at dark images I can't see any detail in them...










In this all I can see of the ninja in the bottom left is the eyemask and belt, the rest is totally black.

Is this something I can remedy in Windows' settings or Catalyst? Contrast maybe?


----------



## DrJimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> They don't have a built-in scaler (except for very low resolutions, like DOS mode), so your graphics card will need to do the legwork for this - assuming you have something decent it's entirely possible so long as your graphics card does the scaling.


Thanks for your reply. I just got my monitor today and I am not sure what the revision of it is. How do I tell if I have a 2C or 2B model?

Thanks,


----------



## mystigiandoll

From some of the screenies it looks like it was right on the box?


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atmosfar*
> 
> I think the colour settings on my catleap might be a bit messed up. I think I applied the calibrated ICM from the OP, but anyway when I look at dark images I can't see any detail in them...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In this all I can see of the ninja in the bottom left is the eyemask and belt, the rest is totally black.
> Is this something I can remedy in Windows' settings or Catalyst? Contrast maybe?


Poss your cable? B


----------



## DrJimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mystigiandoll*
> 
> From some of the screenies it looks like it was right on the box?


Thanks for the reply. I do not see any numbers on the box indicating 2C or 2B. I think the seller told me he couldn not tell which version it was from the box. You would think this would be on the front page of this thread???


----------



## Nyghtryder_9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrJimmy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mystigiandoll*
> 
> From some of the screenies it looks like it was right on the box?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for the reply. I do not see any numbers on the box indicating 2C or 2B. I think the seller told me he couldn not tell which version it was from the box. You would think this would be on the front page of this thread???
Click to expand...

In the serial number of the moniter there will be a 2b/c/d. It should be on the box

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## MisterPoppyPhD

Alright, this thread has the most people out of the three (Yamakasi, Achieva and CrossOver) so I figured I'd ask a question. Which monitor is the best? Least input lag, least likely to be flawed and preferably a DisplayPort slot.

Thanks in advance, maybe I'll get myself a present with my first gamestop paycheck.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterPoppyPhD*
> 
> Alright, this thread has the most people out of the three (Yamakasi, Achieva and CrossOver) so I figured I'd ask a question. Which monitor is the best? Least input lag, least likely to be flawed and preferably a DisplayPort slot.
> Thanks in advance, maybe I'll get myself a present with my first gamestop paycheck.


Since you're asking in the Catleap club the answers will obviously be biased. I don't own a Catleap or any of the Korean monitors, but IMO I think it'd be a better choice to get something other than Catleap. I think that since the Catleaps are the most popular of them all, the monitors with the least defects will be gone. Just a guess by me, but if I went with one of the Korean monitors I'd go with the Shimian.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterPoppyPhD*
> 
> Alright, this thread has the most people out of the three (Yamakasi, Achieva and CrossOver) so I figured I'd ask a question. Which monitor is the best? Least input lag, least likely to be flawed and preferably a DisplayPort slot.
> Thanks in advance, maybe I'll get myself a present with my first gamestop paycheck.


If im not mistaken they are all using the same panel, so its up to what stand/bezel/build you like best.


----------



## DrJimmy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nyghtryder_9*
> 
> In the serial number of the moniter there will be a 2b/c/d. It should be on the box
> Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I727 using Tapatalk 2


Thanks all for the replies. It is a 2D model as found in the middle of the serial no. I was only looking for 2B or 2C.

Monitor works fine, and looks beautiful. Very happy I bought it so far. I bought mine through bigclothcraft on Ebay. Very professional and communicative chap.


----------



## Neo Mike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MisterPoppyPhD*
> 
> Alright, this thread has the most people out of the three (Yamakasi, Achieva and CrossOver) so I figured I'd ask a question. Which monitor is the best? Least input lag, least likely to be flawed and preferably a DisplayPort slot.
> Thanks in advance, maybe I'll get myself a present with my first gamestop paycheck.


Yes all have the same panels A- , all dont have the same PCB, all dont have the same stand, i have read alot about all 3 of the Korean monitors, i dont own one yet, cant make up my mind, i say the Crossover looks the best quality overall to me, thats just my opinion.


----------



## thedymo

Hello all,

This is my first post. I joined because of this monitor. I have been reading posts and doing research on these monitors the past few days. I decided to get one. Currently I'm using 2x 27'' Acer's but the 1080p res just wasn't doing it for me







. I will most likely end up with 2 of the Catleap's, however at the moment I have only one on the way. Pixel Perf from bigclothcraft. He's been great to deal with so far and communicates well.

I'm also debating keeping one of the acers and getting a mount and putting it in portrait mode...but will make more decisions once the monitor comes in


----------



## HyperMatrix

If anyone has a radeon 7000 series card, can you please try downloading the latest version of Powerstrip from entechtaiwan.com/ps.htm and under display profiles -> Configure, see if you have access to the "advanced timing options.." button/section. I know previously it couldn't. But realized Powerstrip was updated on March 25th. Not sure if they added support for the new radeon cards or not. If the option is there now, this will make it a lot easier for non-HD 6000 series AMD card owners to overclock their cards.


----------



## shadman

Alright well I have had mine for a few days, and I love it. Doesn't OC past 66Hz, but thats OK because I'll sell this when the 100Hz+ ones come around.

I got it $345 from dcsamsungmall, ordered Sunday night, received that Thursday. 1 stuck Cyan pixel, and thats all I can find. Glossy Display, No glass, no speakers. Packaging was the monitor box surrounded by some decently tough/think air bubbles.

Also....does any one know how to get rid of the stupid stand arm? I want to VESA mount this monitor but that stupid thing is in the way right now... I tried taking the two screws out of the arm, and that did nothing. I tried taking the whole monitor apart, but it wasn't giving (should I try harder? I was kinda light..)

Overall though, satisfied.


----------



## Kougar

Any update on the "2B" board run that I've been hearing about on a few places? I'm looking, but the sheer length of this thread makes it kinda rough!


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> If anyone has a radeon 7000 series card, can you please try downloading the latest version of Powerstrip from entechtaiwan.com/ps.htm and under display profiles -> Configure, see if you have access to the "advanced timing options.." button/section. I know previously it couldn't. But realized Powerstrip was updated on March 25th. Not sure if they added support for the new radeon cards or not. If the option is there now, this will make it a lot easier for non-HD 6000 series AMD card owners to overclock their cards.


The option to go into the advanced timing options is there, but once in that dialogue it is not possible to raise any of the values beyond what mine seem to be at - 118.195Hz horizontal scan and 80.295Hz vertical. Maximum pixel clock for me appears to be 317Mhz.

Card is the 7850 btw.

Any ideas on how to up any of this would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> The option to go into the advanced timing options is there, but once in that dialogue it is not possible to raise any of the values beyond what mine seem to be at - 118.195Hz horizontal scan and 80.295Hz vertical. Maximum pixel clock for me appears to be 317Mhz.
> Card is the 7850 btw.
> Any ideas on how to up any of this would be greatly appreciated.


That's exciting news...previously you couldn't go into it on the Hd 7000 series. When you enter a higher pixel clock, what happens? Does screen go blank, or do you just get lines/bars? Try it at 330. That pixel clock should work regardless. Though with Powerstrip I'm sure you can hit the full 100hz. =D


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadman*
> 
> Alright well I have had mine for a few days, and I love it. Doesn't OC past 66Hz, but thats OK because I'll sell this when the 100Hz+ ones come around.
> 
> I got it $345 from dcsamsungmall, ordered Sunday night, received that Thursday. 1 stuck Cyan pixel, and thats all I can find. Glossy Display, No glass, no speakers. Packaging was the monitor box surrounded by some decently tough/think air bubbles.
> 
> Also....does any one know how to get rid of the stupid stand arm? I want to VESA mount this monitor but that stupid thing is in the way right now... I tried taking the two screws out of the arm, and that did nothing. I tried taking the whole monitor apart, but it wasn't giving (should I try harder? I was kinda light..)
> 
> Overall though, satisfied.


There is a guide on how to take it apart properly in the original post.


----------



## latenssi

Hi!

I received my 2C today and assembled the thing. When I plugged in the power cord to the back of the monitor smoke came out of the back and currently the monitor is dead. Any ideas on what to do? It says on ebay that the seller takes returns but is there a way to fix this without sending it back since its quite a hastle?


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> Hi!
> I received my 2C today and assembled the thing. When I plugged in the power cord to the back of the monitor smoke came out of the back and currently the monitor is dead. Any ideas on what to do? It says on ebay that the seller takes returns but is there a way to fix this without sending it back since its quite a hastle?


Smoke came out of the back? Where are you located, and whats the voltage there?


----------



## latenssi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicolasl46*
> 
> Smoke came out of the back? Where are you located, and whats the voltage there?


I live in Filand. We have 230V.


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kougar*
> 
> Any update on the "2B" board run that I've been hearing about on a few places? I'm looking, but the sheer length of this thread makes it kinda rough!


Check the OP, official update is there. Unofficial news click on the 100hz in my sig.


----------



## ctrlhomer

latenssi you might be out of luck repairing it. I would attempt to return it and say that it was DOA and that you where using the power converter and it will not turn on. Then just hope for the best.

Gentleman I know says "electronics only come with so much smoke"


----------



## atmosfar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Poss your cable?


Would that affect a digital signal in such a way?

Anyway, I don't think I had ToastyX's d65 profile loaded correctly. Now that I have it, things look pretty pink. I'm going to leave it for a while and see if my eyes adjust.

Still that super-dark blacks issue though.


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shadman*
> 
> Alright well I have had mine for a few days, and I love it. Doesn't OC past 66Hz, but thats OK because I'll sell this when the 100Hz+ ones come around.
> 
> I got it $345 from dcsamsungmall, ordered Sunday night, received that Thursday. 1 stuck Cyan pixel, and thats all I can find. Glossy Display, No glass, no speakers. Packaging was the monitor box surrounded by some decently tough/think air bubbles.
> 
> Also....does any one know how to get rid of the stupid stand arm? I want to VESA mount this monitor but that stupid thing is in the way right now... I tried taking the two screws out of the arm, and that did nothing. I tried taking the whole monitor apart, but it wasn't giving (should I try harder? I was kinda light..)
> 
> Overall though, satisfied.
> 
> 
> 
> There is a guide on how to take it apart properly in the original post.
Click to expand...

Oh my goodness, I read everything in the OP except that. Thanks.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

PCB update in OP.


----------



## eternal7trance

Finally getting the new cord today, hope this fixes my problems.


----------



## latenssi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ctrlhomer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> Hi!
> I received my 2C today and assembled the thing. When I plugged in the power cord to the back of the monitor smoke came out of the back and currently the monitor is dead. Any ideas on what to do? It says on ebay that the seller takes returns but is there a way to fix this without sending it back since its quite a hastle?
> 
> 
> 
> latenssi you might be out of luck repairing it. I would attempt to return it and say that it was DOA and that you where using the power converter and it will not turn on. Then just hope for the best.
> Gentleman I know says "electronics only come with so much smoke"
Click to expand...

So for example changing the PCB or something wont help?


----------



## cubanresourceful

Review to come.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ctrlhomer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> Hi!
> I received my 2C today and assembled the thing. When I plugged in the power cord to the back of the monitor smoke came out of the back and currently the monitor is dead. Any ideas on what to do? It says on ebay that the seller takes returns but is there a way to fix this without sending it back since its quite a hastle?
> 
> 
> 
> latenssi you might be out of luck repairing it. I would attempt to return it and say that it was DOA and that you where using the power converter and it will not turn on. Then just hope for the best.
> Gentleman I know says "electronics only come with so much smoke"
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> So for example changing the PCB or something wont help?
Click to expand...

Have you taken it apart to see what went up in smoke? I suppose it would depend on what fried back there.


----------



## ctrlhomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> So for example changing the PCB or something wont help?


It could, I had this happen to a PSU that was set to only take 110v and I plugged it into a 240v outlet. I was lucky and nothing else was damaged, but I am going on a whim and thinking that the monitor will have slightly less protection to its internal components that are connect than of a PSU would. I could be completely wrong but normally smoke = bad.


----------



## latenssi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Have you taken it apart to see what went up in smoke? I suppose it would depend on what fried back there.


I have not. Yet. Im still waiting for the seller to reply to my message. It's a hard decision to make. If I open it up to see what fried to even know if it is fixable the seller wont take it back anymore I suppose. And if I send it back to Korea well then there is again the chance of it getting lost.


----------



## latenssi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ctrlhomer*
> 
> It could, I had this happen to a PSU that was set to only take 110v and I plugged it into a 240v outlet. I was lucky and nothing else was damaged, but I am going on a whim and thinking that the monitor will have slightly less protection to its internal components that are connect than of a PSU would. I could be completely wrong but normally smoke = bad.


At least the red light is lit! Well its kind of blinkering. But I guess it does not really need a working board to power one led.


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> That's exciting news...previously you couldn't go into it on the Hd 7000 series. When you enter a higher pixel clock, what happens? Does screen go blank, or do you just get lines/bars? Try it at 330. That pixel clock should work regardless. Though with Powerstrip I'm sure you can hit the full 100hz. =D


It won't let me change to 330. When I do it, click on apply, it just defaults back to 317.


----------



## mystigiandoll

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> PCB update in OP.


Thanks much for the update!!


----------



## Crezzlin

Do you guys not find the catleap burns your eyes out? lol after 3 days use im blind







anyway the only way i could get it usable for me is to put the monitor brightnes up to full, then click -10 clicks to reduce it again, after that enter CCC and everything to default apart from Contrast, have set that at 65.

Anyone managed to overclock with 3 monitors at once yet with AMD cards? thanks


----------



## Tomach

Hey guys. I have the same problem with backlighting on my Shimian than on these: http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3080#post_17027944

Do you think it is possible to change the pcb to a working one? And where do i get one?


----------



## Wunderwaffle

"Do you guys not find the catleap burns your eyes out? lol after 3 days use im blind smile.gif anyway the only way i could get it usable for me is to put the monitor brightnes up to full, then click -10 clicks to reduce it again, after that enter CCC and everything to default apart from Contrast, have set that at 65.

Anyone managed to overclock with 3 monitors at once yet with AMD cards? thanks"

Nope you are not the only one with this problem. :] I'm using Flux atm. It helps to some degree.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> "Do you guys not find the catleap burns your eyes out? lol after 3 days use im blind smile.gif anyway the only way i could get it usable for me is to put the monitor brightnes up to full, then click -10 clicks to reduce it again, after that enter CCC and everything to default apart from Contrast, have set that at 65.
> Anyone managed to overclock with 3 monitors at once yet with AMD cards? thanks"
> Nope you are not the only one with this problem. :] I'm using Flux atm. It helps to some degree.


Do you have a link to that App? Thanks


----------



## eternal7trance

Anyone have a working PCB I could buy from them? I'd like to see if replacing mine fixes it. I don't care what version it is.

I got my DVI cord in and it still shows multicolored vertical lines. Sigh.


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> PCB update in OP.


Take my money dammit!
And I'm not sure why, butI voted on "no thanks, I like it the way it is"....
Put me down for $75 orless


----------



## Lucif3rhawk

Hello, im the NEW! *g* Im realy interested in this Monitor, but im realy confused, about the different Types of this Monitor! ;-) I hope you can help me!
I was looking for the Q270 on http://www.witechit.co.kr and i found so many Types and new ones i never heard about! ;-)
There are all 27": http://www.witechit.co.kr/new_product01_led_main.html
- Q270 LED with Glas, with and without Speakers...
- 2703 LED IPS
- and some others, but with 1920*1080

My question: Is the 2703 the overclockable new Monitor, who should come out and all talking about(105-120Hz)?
Sometime, there stands IPS on the q270 and sometime not!? But the q270 LED are all IPS Panels, right?
When i can get a Q270 i should take one with a 2B in the Serialnumber?

Thx for your help, im looking forward to your help and comments!


----------



## Kosta88

Lucifer, in the first post, you can find almost all the details you just asked!

This thread is about the Q270, in different versions. You can't get a 2B, they are virtually non-existent, as I gather.

Something about Perfect Pixel having 2B, but not sure about that. Someone else confirm please...

I'm personally almost at pulling the trigger on one. Kind of risky business, but hell...


----------



## dreamcrusher

So whats the deal boys. I'm confused. Should i jump the gun now or wait. Almost bought one last night. Im running a 560ti, so i dont know if ill even be able to OC and handle the new version of 120hz/ Especially for gaming. Am i better off sticking to this stock model?

Also, does this new version come with the option of higher hertz or its just able to be OC'd again.

Basically, am i losing out by being impatient. Is 60hz really that big a difference?

Also, am i better off buying a catleap or a top rated 1080p asus from the US? I love the 25x14 though... Help me decide!


----------



## rubicsphere

Just got mine in the mail from Clothcraft. Only 1 green pixel!! This monitor is amazing for the price


----------



## Steelbarrage

Ordered mine from dcsamsungmall Saturday and it shipped Monday morning now here it is. Best 2 day shipping I've ever seen.
Quick scan didn't yield any dead or stuck pixels nor does there appear to be any back light bleed that I can see yet.
Glad I didn't keep waiting for the OC guaranteed model.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steelbarrage*
> 
> Ordered mine from dcsamsungmall Saturday and it shipped Monday morning now here it is. Best 2 day shipping I've ever seen.
> Quick scan didn't yield any dead or stuck pixels nor does there appear to be any back light bleed that I can see yet.
> Glad I didn't keep waiting for the OC guaranteed model.


Hopefully yours doesn't quit after a few days and start showing multicolored vertical lines. I ordered mine from the same guy you did.


----------



## Steelbarrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Hopefully yours doesn't quit after a few days and start showing multicolored vertical lines. I ordered mine from the same guy you did.


Mine is a 2D.
What about yours.

Edit: Because it can't be said enough.
Order a new stand from the start.
The stock ones blow.


----------



## cubanresourceful

Posted pictures of this amazing monitor! http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3260#post_17062070


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dreamcrusher*
> 
> So whats the deal boys. I'm confused. Should i jump the gun now or wait. Almost bought one last night. Im running a 560ti, so i dont know if ill even be able to OC and handle the new version of 120hz/ Especially for gaming. Am i better off sticking to this stock model?
> 
> Also, does this new version come with the option of higher hertz or its just able to be OC'd again.
> 
> Basically, am i losing out by being impatient. Is 60hz really that big a difference?
> 
> Also, am i better off buying a catleap or a top rated 1080p asus from the US? I love the 25x14 though... Help me decide!


If you are a gamer and don't mind paying a bit more then wait for the special run. If you don't care about gaming and want the cheapest price go for the catleap.

The special run is specified for 60hz, so be overclocking it. For more details check the 100hz thread or wait for the new website (see my 100hz link in my sig).

Check out the input lag link in my sig, for more info on 60hz vs oc'd.

If you understand the advantage of having a higher resolution then go for the catleap. If your good with 1080p and want to save money or just don't want to take any risk get a local monitor.


----------



## cubanresourceful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sfsilicon*
> 
> If you are a gamer and don't mind paying a bit more then wait for the special run. If you don't care about gaming and want the cheapest price go for the catleap.
> The special run is specified for 60hz, so be overclocking it. For more details check the 100hz thread or wait for the new website (see my 100hz link in my sig).
> Check out the input lag link in my sig, for more info on 60hz vs oc'd.
> If you understand the advantage of having a higher resolution then go for the catleap. If your good with 1080p and want to save money or just don't want to take any risk get a local monitor.


Nonetheless, to go off of what sfsilicon said above, the Catleap is an excellent monitor, OC or not. I have it (as many others) and the satisfaction rate is high.


----------



## rubicsphere

Alright guys and gals now that I have had some time to play with this thing I must say that this is the best purchase I have made in a long time. Here are some action shots:

No uneven brightness


Playable BF 3 settings


$ shot


GTX 680 usage at the above settings on Caspian 64 player Conquest


I did try overclocking it but only got to 67Hz since I have the 2D panel which is fine with me.


----------



## tcboy88

the new catleap 2703 gaming series
if judged from the specs it is 100% same with q270
but why they added a "gaming" term in it?
probably becoz it can overclock?
just my guess


----------



## Kosta88

I'd also like to know what's with the 2703. I read on Hardforum that it is an older model?







Differences to Q270, before I order...

Btw. 2703 appears to have much easier removable stand, if you wish to do it!


----------



## _Vetal_

Somebody know OC PCB will be compatible with 2C and 2D revisions? Now I have choice to buy 2C or 2D revision and want replace PCB in the future.


----------



## iamSneaky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Vetal_*
> 
> Somebody know OC PCB will be compatible with 2C and 2D revisions? Now I have choice to buy 2C or 2D revision and want replace PCB in the future.


That is the whole idea of making the OC PCB's ... to replace the PCB's in 2C and 2D monitors
















* I posted that my monitor I got about 2 weeks ago had 5 dead pixels, turns out that it has NONE!
'note to self' .....wear ya glasses when checking .... was just dust LOL!
Needless to say I am very happy with my 2C Catleap ... it is pretty much perfect except for the crappy stand
that leans a bit. No backlight bleed at all. Super Fast deliver from green-sum (highly recommended)
Got it running at 66Hz with my GTX 580 3GB, can't wait for the OC PCB's though


----------



## Kosta88

I still have two questions open. If I order, I will order Pefect Pixel. That is 100% sure.

But:

What is the general opinion on tempered glass? People say dust inside - so is it possible to clean it? If it's just a little, don't think I will be bothered. Depending how visible it is. But how are the looks of the Catleap Tempered? I saw Shimian, but they don't offer Perfect Pixel, so, a no-go.
I would really like the glass in the front, but I do know all the advantages of not having it. Besides, it looks way more cooler.

Also, I got an interesting reply from one of the Ebay sellers:

Me:
I would like to order this screen.
Have a question about Perfect Pixel:
What does that really mean? Does the Perfect Pixel guarantees that all pixels on the screen are OK or what?
I am ready to pay more if this guarantees me no defects on the screen.
Thanks

Bigclothcraft:
Hello
Perfect pixel mean that all pixels on the screen are OK, in other words, there is no dead pixel in pannel.
Any Question are welcome.
Thanks

Now, for me, that has only one meaning. No defects. At all.

The green-sum didn't reply yet, they got the same question. BCC doesn't have a tempered version, but GS does. Oh decisions decisions...


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomach*
> 
> Hey guys. I have the same problem with backlighting on my Shimian than on these: http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3080#post_17027944
> Do you think it is possible to change the pcb to a working one? And where do i get one?


Hi,
How about soldering? You can try to modify your pcb if you are qualified enough.
Check these out:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2230#post_16902885
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2310#post_16911932


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> I still have two questions open. If I order, I will order Pefect Pixel. That is 100% sure.
> But:
> What is the general opinion on tempered glass? People say dust inside - so is it possible to clean it? If it's just a little, don't think I will be bothered. Depending how visible it is. But how are the looks of the Catleap Tempered? I saw Shimian, but they don't offer Perfect Pixel, so, a no-go.
> I would really like the glass in the front, but I do know all the advantages of not having it. Besides, it looks way more cooler.


This gets answered every couple of posts as with the pixel perfect questions. So here's a summary. Tempered glass is to protect the LCD screen surface. These are sold into gaming parlors in Korea so it is to protect them from potential customer abuse (e.g. coffee, scratches, etc). It does not serve any other purpose for a normal user, unless you have kids or an health obsession to point at stuff on the screen by touching it.







Reasons to buy / not to buy the glass are: 1) added layer in front of screen just reduces screen quality - questionable and depends on you 2) added cost - why buy it if you don't need it 3) people have reported that they have had dust behind the glass - fixable, but due to poor assembly process 4) Looks cool - your personal choice
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> Also, I got an interesting reply from one of the Ebay sellers:
> Me:
> I would like to order this screen.
> Have a question about Perfect Pixel:
> What does that really mean? Does the Perfect Pixel guarantees that all pixels on the screen are OK or what?
> I am ready to pay more if this guarantees me no defects on the screen.
> Thanks
> Bigclothcraft:
> Hello
> Perfect pixel mean that all pixels on the screen are OK, in other words, there is no dead pixel in pannel.
> Any Question are welcome.
> Thanks
> Now, for me, that has only one meaning. No defects. At all.
> The green-sum didn't reply yet, they got the same question. BCC doesn't have a tempered version, but GS does. Oh decisions decisions...


Pixel perfect is a bit of a red herring and the about response shows that the sellers don't understand their own policies. These are A- panels. Meaning the have a specific dead pixel policy (it should be on each of the sellers ebay ads). Pixel perfect means that the monitors are checked against this policy (e.g. A- panel) then they are pixel perfect. From what I recall this means no bright pixel defects and no adjacent stuck pixel clusters. You get the idea, not so perfect as a normal person would expect, this also doesn't protect you against other defects like loose cables, defective LED unit, bad boards, etc. The important thing to understand is that the seller does not open and check the monitor against your standard, because he can't sell it for new if you don't want it after the check - not to mention the effort of doing this. This is a factory check and they check it against the A- spec (thus the longer delay, unless he already has pixel perfect units in stock). That's the bad news. The good news is that you do not notice non-bright pixel defects that much due to the pixel density/high resolution (pixels are very small and there are a lot of them). Results of non-pixel perfect monitors being "perfect" has been pretty good, see OP list of owners and those that have defects are ok, except for the exceptional few. So the bottom line is that pixel perfect is not a guarantee for a perfect screen, but cost a substantial amount of money, you can get one if it makes you feel better, but if your that cautious or this is that important for you get a US brand, otherwise roll the dice like everyone else here and the results might not be that bad (e.g. people who bought the pixel perfect monitor got dead pixels, not to mention dust in the tempered glass models or like me got a perfect monitor without the guarantee).


----------



## zoomee

its just keeps getting better!. I noticed on 20/4/12 I had a windows update from Intel (display driver for Intel HD 3000)
Tried getting into the bios today and wahay! (even though I'm using an ATI 7970!!)- it works!









I've added my details to the spreadsheet. very happy with this purchase.


----------



## darrenb123

If I'm experiencing screen tearing is it because of the monitor or the settings in-game?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> If I'm experiencing screen tearing is it because of the monitor or the settings in-game?


Do you have vsync turned on?


----------



## jekylld

Does anyone know where I can get a new PCB controller board ?
I got a catleap today but when I plugged in the power to the monitor, there was a puff of smoke and the monitor wouldn't turn on
Now I have a good ips panel but a burnt board
Not sure if I can return anything as I opened it to remove the stand.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jekylld*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a new PCB controller board ?
> I got a catleap today but when I plugged in the power to the monitor, there was a puff of smoke and the monitor wouldn't turn on
> Now I have a good ips panel but a burnt board
> Not sure if I can return anything as I opened it to remove the stand.


If Scribby manages to source the boards you'd be able to replace with those and get an upgrade to 100Hz to boot.

I'm wondering if some people are jamming the power connector in the wrong way and shorting them out (causing these smoke releases) - the circuit didn't look like it had much reverse polarity protection to me...

IIRC the flat part of the power connector goes against the monitor (not facing away from it) - I'm not at home though, can somebody else confirm?


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darrenb123*
> 
> If I'm experiencing screen tearing is it because of the monitor or the settings in-game?


You probably have about 60fps and this is a 60hz display (unless you've OC'd it) so you need to use vsync or find a way to run at a higher (or lower) framerate.


----------



## jekylld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> If Scribby manages to source the boards you'd be able to replace with those and get an upgrade to 100Hz to boot.
> I'm wondering if some people are jamming the power connector in the wrong way and shorting them out (causing these smoke releases) - the circuit didn't look like it had much reverse polarity protection to me...
> IIRC the flat part of the power connector goes against the monitor (not facing away from it) - I'm not at home though, can somebody else confirm?


Fingers crossed on Scribby getting them to make the boards then.

there's a flat bit (away from the monitor) and a round indent bit (closer to the back of the monitor) for the connector to prevent people from jamming it in the wrong way.
My $300 facepalm moment was not being patient and trying to push it in with the adapter already powered.


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Do you have a link to that App? Thanks


http://stereopsis.com/flux/


----------



## ewitte

It would be cool if some maker came up with some type of modular screen. Put whatever PCB you want in depending on how much your willing to pay. Its a good way to customize the quality of components inside your screen instead of having to settle for sub part components that a lot of these probably use.


----------



## emin911

Just put in a order with bigclothcraft, I cant wait to get it.

anyone have any experience with that seller? What shape was the monitor in?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewitte*
> 
> It would be cool if some maker came up with some type of modular screen. Put whatever PCB you want in depending on how much your willing to pay. Its a good way to customize the quality of components inside your screen instead of having to settle for sub part components that a lot of these probably use.


This would be nice, except that the different panels we're looking at actually come from LG with a different timing controller mounted to the back (it's not provided/designed by the monitor manufacturers, but by the panel company) - you need to replace a part that comes with/on the panel to upgrade or modify them to add something like high hz, so it's not useful. You *could* have different DVI boards for features like scalers, extra inputs, etc... but the Catleaps already have that in the different models for sale so..


----------



## _Vetal_

Will OC PCB compatible with pb2700?) This model seems a little better than q270...or not?)


----------



## ctrlhomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> Just put in a order with bigclothcraft, I cant wait to get it.
> anyone have any experience with that seller? What shape was the monitor in?


I ordered a Pixel Prefect monitor with no issues and it was a 2B panel. Got it 2 days after it shipped. It was packaged in the retail box wrapped in brown paper. He's ebay records is very good, so he's a "trusted" source. Main reason I went with him was he offered a 30 day return at the time.


----------



## rubicsphere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> Just put in a order with bigclothcraft, I cant wait to get it.
> anyone have any experience with that seller? What shape was the monitor in?


Yea I got mine from that seller too. The packaging is definitely not the best but mine came in without any damage. I posted some pics of it a few posts back if you want to see it.


----------



## cubanresourceful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> Just put in a order with bigclothcraft, I cant wait to get it.
> anyone have any experience with that seller? What shape was the monitor in?


I ordered standard cat leap came in perfect condition.


----------



## rubicsphere

I also ordered just the standard q270, not the pixel perfect, and there was 1 green pixel. It does not bother me at all since it is off to the left and only shows up on a black background which mine is not.

Edit: The stand sucks though which everyone has already stated. What is the general consensus of the best aftermarket stand?


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> I also ordered just the standard q270, not the pixel perfect, and there was 1 green pixel. It does not bother me at all since it is off to the left and only shows up on a black background which mine is not.
> Edit: The stand sucks though which everyone has already stated. What is the general consensus of the best aftermarket stand?


Depends on how much you want to spend and how good you want the stand to be. There's options from a cheap monoprice one that's decent that people got for I think $30 or so, up to the ergotron LX or MX stands for $100ish.


----------



## rubicsphere

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Depends on how much you want to spend and how good you want the stand to be. There's options from a cheap monoprice one that's decent that people got for I think $30 or so, up to the ergotron LX or MX stands for $100ish.


Do you have the link to the monoprice one?

Thanks for the response +Rep


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> Do you have the link to the monoprice one?
> Thanks for the response +Rep


I think this was the one. Even more affordable than I mentioned, but I didn't buy one so I can't personally vouch for its quality. I know some users got it and I don't remember any scathing comments, so it's probably OK. By far the cheapest decent looking aftermarket stand, anyways.


----------



## Kosta88

I'm definitely going for Ergotron MX Arm after I get my Catleap. They look sooo fine. Besides I can use it for any future model.

The only thing I am thinking about is tempered or not. Mostly for the looks. Nobody playing football in this room.


----------



## Descadent

This thread is so huge I've tried looking but does anyone have pictures of this monitor in surround or eyefinity? If you have 3 of these how do you like it? The price for this monitor is unbelievable it's so hard to pass up...I sold my 27" acer 3d monitor today, debating about getting one of these catleaps now or sticking with my original plan with getting a lightboost 3d monitor(benq 3d monitor or the asus 27" 3d)... decisions...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> I'm definitely going for Ergotron MX Arm after I get my Catleap. They look sooo fine. Besides I can use it for any future model.
> The only thing I am thinking about is tempered or not. Mostly for the looks. Nobody playing football in this room.


The MX arm is a montrous beast of a monitor arm. The thing is beefy.

Go for the tempered glass! It looks very slick (ipad type look). And it's easier to clean than the normal ones, provided you clean the dust from the inside. And you might get a 2B monitor.


----------



## rolfathan

First off, thanks for all the research everyone's already done on this. It's a major help. (also, hi! this is my first post here.)

Now, page one has no estimates for importing this thing to the States, which worries me a bit as I have no idea what they may charge. Anyone done this in the U.S. yet?

I was wondering, everyone's had a decent time with DOA units? I tried reading over a bunch of the posts. What was the cost if you returned it? Did they take it back or was it a hassle?

Anyone find a matte version of it? Glare's a big issue for me.
I use a Dell at my work with the same screen in it, it's fantastic! It is matted though. Not sure I'd enjoy a glossy version.

Also, is anyone selling their own? I'd rather know what was wrong with it already (a couple of dead pixels won't scare me off, just let me know about them)


----------



## thedymo

Just got in today. Looks great. Did dead pixel tests on every color, and there's none. I bought a pixel perfect model from bigclothcraft hoping for a 2B, but i ended up getting a 2C. Haven't tried OC. Screen looks very clean across, however the very bottom seems to be a little different, but that could just be because i'm holding it to a higher standard than other screens. Stand definitely is absolute junk, and this isn't something that usually bothers me. The amount of screen space is unreal. I wasn't expecting this. I definitely recommend this.


----------



## Kosta88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> The MX arm is a montrous beast of a monitor arm. The thing is beefy.
> Go for the tempered glass! It looks very slick (ipad type look). And it's easier to clean than the normal ones, provided you clean the dust from the inside. And you might get a 2B monitor.


How do you propose I clean the dust from the inside? Is there any tutorial on this? If it's possible, then tempered glass, here I come! The only thing: I would like to order perfect pixel + tempered + bigclothcraft. They don't have it though


----------



## Rob Cooper

I recently decided to upgrade my monitor. Had been reading about strides being made in pixel density and resulting sharpness and clarity of images on the screen. Catleap seemed to be the low priced option in the WQHD Monitor class. So, I bought one thru Amazon. It arrived very quickly and seemingly in good shape. But with a few surprises: (1) no driver software CD, (2) User Manual in Korean, (3) Manufacturer web site mostly still in Korean even after using Google translate, (4) some lists of GPU's on the web site (maybe the ones supported by the Q270?), (5) 220v ac to 24v dc power converter. Well maybe the Q270 is plug-and-play??

So, I got a 110v to 220v transformer and hooked it up. (I now see that the extra transformer may not have been necessary, but oh well it's done). I get a red light on the Q270 when power is applied, turns green when the power button is pushed, and then turns to flashing green, BLANK SCREEN! Removed power, detached the DVI-D cable and hooked it up to my old monitor, booted up and the system works fine. By the way, my computer only has one DVI-D connector, so I can't hook up both monitors at the same time to see if I can see anything helpful, or try to kick off a search for a new device routine.

So, the power arrangement didn't blow up the Q270 monitor, and the cable seems to work OK (at least on the old monitor). The totally blank screen (not a flicker) seems to indicate that the monitor is not processing the signal from my computer. So much for plug-and-play! I realize that there could be some hardware problem inside the Q270, but I don't have any way of evaluating that unless I take the monitor to a computer repair shop that might have one of the appropriate GPU's.
I will do that if necessary, but thought I would ask a couple of questions first: (1) what are the odds that my old display adapter just can't talk to the Q270? (My guess at this point, near 100%), (2) what's the optimum replacement for me? (I'm not into gaming and overclocking, just want a very clear image for Microsoft Office, photos, videos &#8230 Probably, something under $100 that one or more club member has actually used with success. (3) Are there any tricks to get it running?

My Computer: HP Desktop
Model: p6331p
Processor: AMD Athlon IIX4 630 2.80 GHz
RAM: 8.00 GB
System Type: 64-bit Operating System
Windows 7 Home Premium w/ Service Pack 1
My Display Adapter
ATI Radeon HD 4200 ver. 8.862 3.0
My Existing Monitor
ViewSonic VX2235wm
My New Monitor
Yamakazi Catleap Q270 LED
DVI-D Dual Connector (only one)


----------



## Kosta88

The cable is often a problem. Did you make sure it's the correct cable? The one with full pins... I believe I saw an explanation on the first post in this thread.

HD4000 is I believe not compatible with this huge display and/or resolution. HD4000 is onboard graphics if I am not mistaken?

So you have two problems. Need a better GPU and need a correct cable (possibly). Old one working has no meaning for the Catleap.


----------



## rolfathan

@Rob Cooper:
I think it's more likely your onboard graphics card isn't up for the behemoth of a screen like this. It's mostly graphic designers and gamers using these displays, and they usually have newer/more expensive graphics cards than that.

Edit: Do you know anyone who does have a high-end computer that you could maybe go test your monitor on? That could at least let you know the thing works before investing in a dedicated graphics card.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> First off, thanks for all the research everyone's already done on this. It's a major help. (also, hi! this is my first post here.)
> Now, page one has no estimates for importing this thing to the States, which worries me a bit as I have no idea what they may charge. Anyone done this in the U.S. yet?
> I was wondering, everyone's had a decent time with DOA units? I tried reading over a bunch of the posts. What was the cost if you returned it? Did they take it back or was it a hassle?
> Anyone find a matte version of it? Glare's a big issue for me.
> I use a Dell at my work with the same screen in it, it's fantastic! It is matted though. Not sure I'd enjoy a glossy version.
> Also, is anyone selling their own? I'd rather know what was wrong with it already (a couple of dead pixels won't scare me off, just let me know about them)


A ton of people in the US have done it, no customs fees so far as they mark it gift and valued at 150 or less.

Not very many people have had DOA, but if they did the seller will accept returns, but you pay postage upfront and be reimbursed if they find its defective. The estimates are $100-150 to return it.

A few people have gotten a matte version on accident, I don't remember if there is a specific matte model.


----------



## thyroid

I think i have a bad board. I have a big yellow spot on the bottom right with a very slight dark band about two inches above the bottom of the monitor, and a gradient to the right side of the monitor. It's all subtle but I'm an artist so I picked up on them. Not sure if it would annoy someone else but they're noticeable to me.

Wasn't there a post that possibly fixed the issue? Could it be the cable and not the board? I'm using the included DVI-D cable on an HD7870.

Thoughts?


----------



## sfsilicon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rubicsphere*
> 
> I also ordered just the standard q270, not the pixel perfect, and there was 1 green pixel. It does not bother me at all since it is off to the left and only shows up on a black background which mine is not.
> Edit: The stand sucks though which everyone has already stated. What is the general consensus of the best aftermarket stand?


Check out the stand link in my sig for more options. Lots of options, links and pics...


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob Cooper*
> 
> ATI Radeon HD 4200 ver. 8.862 3.0


It wouldn't surprise me at all if your DVI port is in fact a single-link port, done as a cost-savings measure by the motherboard manufacturer. Just because it has all the pins on the connector (at the computer end) doesn't mean it's dual-link; that's often done just so that the card is not incompatible with a dual-link cable if you decide to plug one in.

If you can test the monitor on another system with a better graphics card you should be able to confirm if that's the case; if so you can get a graphics card for around $60 that would drive the monitor correctly (at desktop) if you don't care about 3D capabilities.


----------



## bjgrenke

Wahhhh, there's just more and more backlight bleed/unevenness with time







I want one of these so bad but don't want to take that risk.


----------



## ctrlhomer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> First off, thanks for all the research everyone's already done on this. It's a major help. (also, hi! this is my first post here.)
> Now, page one has no estimates for importing this thing to the States, which worries me a bit as I have no idea what they may charge. Anyone done this in the U.S. yet?


If I understand correctly the US and South Korea now have a free trade agreement as of March 15, 2012, but I am unable to find 100% proof that you will not be charged a custom fee.

http://www.ustr.gov/trade-agreements/free-trade-agreements/korus-fta


----------



## cruisx

Have had the monitor for 4 weeks now, but sadly I have only been able to use it for 1 day. PSU fried everything the day i got it, exams came up and only yesterday have i had the time to rma everything -_-, was so looking forward to this and used it for less than 24 hrs, at least it looks nice sitting there.


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cruisx*
> 
> Have had the monitor for 4 weeks now, but sadly I have only been able to use it for 1 day. PSU fried everything the day i got it, exams came up and only yesterday have i had the time to rma everything -_-, was so looking forward to this and used it for less than 24 hrs, at least it looks nice sitting there.


hehe i went through the same thing, sort of. I had to order a new powerbrick so it sat on my desk unused for 3 weeks.

Hopefully yours is perfect! turns out mine has uneven brightness (subtle left to right gradient, giant yellow spot, and dark band running across the bottom)


----------



## Rob Cooper

Thanks, the cable came with the Monitor. It is a DVD-D, ie complete set of pins. And it works with my old monitor, so apparently it will transmit a signal.

Yes, on the AMD ATI Radeon HD 4200. I don't think it supports the Q270. Funny thing, the terminology has progressed from "display adapter" to "graphics card" to "graphics processing unit." I believe this represents a progression in power and complexity. My problem now is finding a GPU that provides enough power, and actually works with other components of my system, without breaking the bank.


----------



## Rob Cooper

Thanks,

I'm begining to think you are right, proof by physical demonstration may be the best way. Unless I get something conclusive soon, I will contact our local store/repair shop.

The AMD web site lists the following specification:

Two integrated DVI display outputs •Primary supports 18-, 24-, and 30-bit digital displays at all resolutions up to 1920x1200 (single-link DVI) or 2560x1600 (dual-link DVI)1
•Secondary supports 18-, 24-, and 30-bit digital displays at all resolutions up to 1920x1200 (single-link DVI only)1

Footnote 1 says:

1.Some custom resolutions require user configuration.

However, it also says there are display port and hdmi outputs that are NOT there, so ...


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *jekylld*
> 
> Does anyone know where I can get a new PCB controller board ?
> I got a catleap today but when I plugged in the power to the monitor, there was a puff of smoke and the monitor wouldn't turn on
> Now I have a good ips panel but a burnt board
> Not sure if I can return anything as I opened it to remove the stand.


Wow. smoke is not good as you can imagine. The issue with the power connector is this - it is not shielded. I actually had a spark off of it once on one of my monitors and thought I had fried the damn thing. DO NOT plug in your monitor with a hot brick! I realize this should be in the OP and will be soon, honestly too many people are not reading the OP so . . . , plug the power connector into the monitor first, then the brick to power just to be safe. You can get a little short from the power connector edge to the edge of the monitor DVI PCB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *_Vetal_*
> 
> Will OC PCB compatible with pb2700?) This model seems a little better than q270...or not?)


Yes, assuming you have one of the two compatible LG panels (and my bet is all Shimian, Crossover, and PCBank monitors do). Having said that it will require some modding skills since the monitor housing is quite different between the 4 different types, but again it is only plastic and I think cannot be that hard to make work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> First off, thanks for all the research everyone's already done on this. It's a major help. (also, hi! this is my first post here.)
> 
> Now, page one has no estimates for importing this thing to the States, which worries me a bit as I have no idea what they may charge. Anyone done this in the U.S. yet?
> 
> I was wondering, everyone's had a decent time with DOA units? I tried reading over a bunch of the posts. What was the cost if you returned it? Did they take it back or was it a hassle?
> 
> Anyone find a matte version of it? Glare's a big issue for me.
> I use a Dell at my work with the same screen in it, it's fantastic! It is matted though. Not sure I'd enjoy a glossy version.
> 
> Also, is anyone selling their own? I'd rather know what was wrong with it already (a couple of dead pixels won't scare me off, just let me know about them)


Free trade my friend, free trade. No info to the US since there is no customs duty for products imported from S Korea.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Real quick - I apologize for not updating the OP as I have promised over the last week (I have all my notes to do it, just not the time right now). I am swamped with work and on the road for the next seven days. I will get to it as I can. I promise to provide PCB updates as I receive them (and for now, there are none.)

Feel free to send me PMs with any specific questions, but please be patient as I am not able to be on as regularly as normal (working for a living kind of sucks ass.)

Cheers!


----------



## thedymo

A little help would be great- just running into a mild problem.

Every once in a while I get a screen flicker. I did OC a 2C board up to 65HZ and that caused mild flicker so I just went back down to complete stock settings because frankly I don't know much about OC'ing refresh rates and would just leave it stock.

However, I still get an occasional full screen flicker from simply moving my cursor around. Is it possible to uninstall the driver and reinstall it that perhaps my OC'd settings are still somehow messing with the screen? Any other tips?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedymo*
> 
> A little help would be great- just running into a mild problem.
> 
> Every once in a while I get a screen flicker. I did OC a 2C board up to 65HZ and that caused mild flicker so I just went back down to complete stock settings because frankly I don't know much about OC'ing refresh rates and would just leave it stock.
> 
> However, I still get an occasional full screen flicker from simply moving my cursor around. Is it possible to uninstall the driver and reinstall it that perhaps my OC'd settings are still somehow messing with the screen? Any other tips?


Sounds like a driver/GPU issue not necessarily a monitor issue. Try doing a clean install of your drivers and report back.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedymo*
> 
> A little help would be great- just running into a mild problem.
> Every once in a while I get a screen flicker. I did OC a 2C board up to 65HZ and that caused mild flicker so I just went back down to complete stock settings because frankly I don't know much about OC'ing refresh rates and would just leave it stock.
> However, I still get an occasional full screen flicker from simply moving my cursor around. Is it possible to uninstall the driver and reinstall it that perhaps my OC'd settings are still somehow messing with the screen? Any other tips?


If it's *not* the GPU or drivers my next guess would be cable.


----------



## Kfizzle

So I picked one of these up and got a perfect screen. No dead or bright pixels, no backlight bleed or uneven backlight and I must say it is really nice but.....

I also have a Samsung s27a750d 120hz and I beleive the 120hz has made playing anything at 60hz not an option for me. When sitting next to each other the 750d is comparable in picture quality to the Yamakasi obviously minus the veiwing angles and higher res but this is just my opinion.

Now on to my issues. First the stand is poo but yes could be changed. The Yamakasi is also dissapointing in the fact that fast movement in games causes a blurry image expecially on other characters in game standing near me. It looks awesome sitting there but once you start walking side to side in any game the blurry details just annoy me. I have tried everything on my end to see if it was my hardware/software. New drivers/cables for example. I am guessing most people would not notice this unless they came from a fast response 120hz panel like i have.

Now what I love about it. The veiwing angles and higher resolution for sure. Oh how I wish there was a 120hz 2560x1440.

So I am debating what to do and would like some other thoughts. Keep the Yamakasi and try to get used to it or sell it on ebay(not here not enough reps)? I don't have room for a dual monitor setup either so keeping two monitors is not an option.


----------



## Whitespider999

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kfizzle*
> 
> Oh how I wish there was a 120hz 2560x1440.


There is, we just need to wait around for that deal to come through. So long as it has not been destroyed by 'a certain intervention'. You will likely still get some blurring, however the smoothness will return, as will the responsiveness that comes with above>>60fps/hz.

I would honestly wait around for that, for as long as you can.

I can't downgrade from 2560x1440 to 1920x1080. I simply cannot. Games look radically different at ultra high definition. Best of both worlds (The B model catleap) or bust (stick with my u2711).

However - that is me. And standards differ.

(Ps, in certain games, the 'motion blurring' effect actually improves the experience, in other games, not at all. Mess with games at 2560x1440 for a bit longer, then choose)


----------



## Kosta88

Have been living with the 60Hz for about years now. I don't think I'll be missing it on the new Catleap when I get it.

But something else, something I asked couple of pages back and didn't get it answered:

Someone said that if I got tempered glass, and it's dirty behind the glass, I could clean it? Enough said that I don't have two left hands and I could probably take it apart, as long as I don't have to solder anything. Screwing, unscrewing and disconnecting is not a problem for me.

But, is it really possible to come to the back side of the glass without really breaking anything?


----------



## tobsen26

Do anybody know how to track a Catleap from Bigclothcraft? I only became an Tracking number from DHL, but dont know where to check it.

Thanks


----------



## Kosta88

Maybe this?
http://www.dhl.com/en/express/tracking.html


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> hehe i went through the same thing, sort of. I had to order a new powerbrick so it sat on my desk unused for 3 weeks.
> Hopefully yours is perfect! turns out mine has uneven brightness (subtle left to right gradient, giant yellow spot, and dark band running across the bottom)


All these Korean monitors have a slightly visible bottom band. It is really very hard to notice that:

and that is normal for this kind of panel. In normal condition you hardly ever see it. So in my opinion, there is no problem with it.
As for the rest, I also have an uneven brightness and a yellow tint and my panel is really bad (no contract trick, the brightness is set at minimum):

So I guess we are fellow sufferers.


----------



## Kosta88

I think, in the end, it all comes down to: what you pay is what you get.

You can't be expecting a performance of the Apple display in a monitor that's hardly 3rd of the price?

There is another way too: get a Dell, check for defects, shave off the AG coating and you get the same thing, don't you?

But a question: is this because of the PCB or the panel?


----------



## Supertrucker

Well, bigclothcraft accepted my offer of 335$ for the catleap, i should be joining this club in a week or so


----------



## Kosta88

Depending on the condition.

Dead/Stuck pixels?
Problems with backlighting?
Any defects?

Gotta give a bit detail.


----------



## ProjectYinYang

I haven't noticed any dead pixels but should get a program to test that to make certain. There is a tiny bit of backlight bleed. No issues with the monitor, it turns on everytime and does the job.


----------



## Djankie

I have now the HAZRO 1440P Dell 1440P and Catleap 1440P. Anyone want me to do a comparison in terms of color/performance/price/pictures ?


----------



## Whitespider999

Run some vibrant games like just cause 2 or the witcher 2 on the dell and catleap, if you can.


----------



## Kosta88

I would very much be interested into bleed difference between the 3, panel color quality and anything different between the 3!


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> I think, in the end, it all comes down to: what you pay is what you get.
> You can't be expecting a performance of the Apple display in a monitor that's hardly 3rd of the price?
> There is another way too: get a Dell, check for defects, shave off the AG coating and you get the same thing, don't you?
> But a question: is this because of the PCB or the panel?


If you asked me, I would tell you that:
1) some users of Apple products had the similar troubles with yellow tint. So I can suppose that now some people here have their panels which might be discarded by Apple before
2) majority of buyers of these Korean(in actual fact Chinese) monitors have managed to get perfect flawless panels for 1/3rd of Apple's price.
3) uneven brightness is caused by a fault in PCB design.


----------



## Kosta88

1) Possibly, but if you complain about that, the policy would be for an immediate replacement
2) True, but you don't pay for the price of the panel, but I'd guess the price of the service, as you can see, there is virtually none, whereas with Apple (I own an iPhone and an iPad) they will break a leg if something doesn't work (eg. exchange the device without any exception)
3) That is calming, since you can quite easily replace the PCB - are we talking about backlight bleed or uneven brightness accross the screen?


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *urliam*
> 
> All these Korean monitors have a slightly visible bottom band. It is really very hard to notice that:
> 
> and that is normal for this kind of panel. In normal condition you hardly ever see it. So in my opinion, there is no problem with it.
> As for the rest, I also have an uneven brightness and a yellow tint and my panel is really bad (no contract trick, the brightness is set at minimum):
> 
> So I guess we are fellow sufferers.


Thanks for the reply. But i won't accept it and neither should you!







I'm sure there's a way to fix it. Have you tried swapping out the DVI-D cable? Also does anyone know if the soldering mod applies here or have any other ideas how to correct these problems?


----------



## thedymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Sounds like a driver/GPU issue not necessarily a monitor issue. Try doing a clean install of your drivers and report back.


I ended up doing a clean install of the drivers and it ran well for 2 hours of normal processing plus light gaming. Before it was flickering every 3 seconds even at 60Hz so I seem fine now. Maybe my board just isn't meant to be OC'd







. Guess I'll be leaving it stock 60, but I'm ok with that, as the screen still looks tremendous. I'm debating getting a second, but I don't know how a 560 ti will really be able to handle that. Might have to grab a GTX 680 as well.


----------



## holic-lolic

Well, as urliam says , Defect of the backlight is present in all models.
I had thought my monitor with no problems, but it isn't right.

Maximum brightness. There isn't difference between the left and right.

Normal brightness (minimum+9). Than the maximum brightness, there is little difference in left.

Minimum brightness. Defect can be seen easily.


(As has been said already)This problem is not fatal.
Or, is there always visible difference in the worst cases?


----------



## rolfathan

Another thing crossed my mind. eBay has an offer to do three year warranty/insurance on the item you're buying through another company (via SquareTrade http://pages.ebay.com/warranty/squaretrade.html ). Would it be worth it on a product like this, do you think? You think it would cover a monitor just up and dying in two years? They make it look like they cover it, but somehow this is hard for me to believe.

[Edit: Added link]


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> Another thing crossed my mind. eBay has an offer to do three year warranty/insurance on the item you're buying through another company (via SquareTrade http://pages.ebay.com/warranty/squaretrade.html ). Would it be worth it on a product like this, do you think? You think it would cover a monitor just up and dying in two years? They make it look like they cover it, but somehow this is hard for me to believe.
> [Edit: Added link]


I'd like to know this too. Like if my monitor has the brightness fade issue or something else, will they cover shipping and repairs?

Second, would it be worth it to get perfect pixel? I don't think dead pixels is the main issue with this monitor, it seems to mainly be brightness fade.


----------



## davejsb

Does anyone have any idea where I could get a spare power adaptor for my Catleap, just in case the one supplied goes pop?

Many thanks


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Greensum mailed all the buyers a scan of an english manual for the catleap today.


----------



## Aquineas

I had no luck contacting the seller about my broken internal cable, so I now have a non-functioning Catleap monitor (folks, be *VERY* careful taking off the cover if you intend to do so!!)
Scribby, I know your priority is sourcing the boards, and that's fine, but it sounds like it's still going to be a while (if ever) that they're ready for purchase. In the meantime, can you PM me the contact info so I can inquire about a new cable? Or inquire on my behalf? I'll gladly pay for this. I have a $350 monitor right now that's non-functional. I know this is my own fault, but nevertheless I would appreciate it greatly if I could get this fixed.

Thanks!


----------



## urliam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> 3) That is calming, since you can quite easily replace the PCB - are we talking about backlight bleed or uneven brightness accross the screen?


In the dark I see no backlight bleeding with a black background, no at all! At the same time I have strong uneven brightness accross the screen at low and middle levels of brightness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Thanks for the reply. But i won't accept it and neither should you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure there's a way to fix it. Have you tried swapping out the DVI-D cable? Also does anyone know if the soldering mod applies here or have any other ideas how to correct these problems?


Anyway I am not going to accept it and most likely I will get rid of it and then will try to buy another one. Maybe lost some money. Swapping DVI cable won't fix the problem.
Probable you have only 4 options:
- give up and get used to it, eventually understanding that it is a low cost device
- trying the soldering mode(for 2C PCB) at your own risk
- have a hassle with your seller and ask for a replacement/refund or just return it wasting some money to send it back
- try to sell it, may be lost some money and have another attempt.

I read about the mod in original thread (Russian is my native language), there you can find the photo of a screen at the minimal brightness after the mod was applied: http://forum.ixbt.com/topic.cgi?id=28:27061-28#896
Privately, I think that it is not my choice because I have neither soldering skills nor clear understanding of basic electrical principles. Variety of PCB versions might be a problem also.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holic-lolic*
> 
> I had thought my monitor with no problems, but it isn't right.
> (As has been said already)This problem is not fatal.
> Or, is there always visible difference in the worst cases?


The worst case I've seen you can find here http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2110#post_16887673
But there was another type of PCB and uneven brightness appeared at any levels of brightness there.
So if it is not bothering you much, you should just forget about it. In my case it's driving me nuts.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rob Cooper*
> 
> I recently decided to upgrade my monitor. Had been reading about strides being made in pixel density and resulting sharpness and clarity of images on the screen. Catleap seemed to be the low priced option in the WQHD Monitor class. So, I bought one thru Amazon. It arrived very quickly and seemingly in good shape. But with a few surprises: (1) no driver software CD, (2) User Manual in Korean, (3) Manufacturer web site mostly still in Korean even after using Google translate, (4) some lists of GPU's on the web site (maybe the ones supported by the Q270?), (5) 220v ac to 24v dc power converter. Well maybe the Q270 is plug-and-play??
> 
> So, I got a 110v to 220v transformer and hooked it up. (I now see that the extra transformer may not have been necessary, but oh well it's done). I get a red light on the Q270 when power is applied, turns green when the power button is pushed, and then turns to flashing green, BLANK SCREEN! Removed power, detached the DVI-D cable and hooked it up to my old monitor, booted up and the system works fine. By the way, my computer only has one DVI-D connector, so I can't hook up both monitors at the same time to see if I can see anything helpful, or try to kick off a search for a new device routine.
> 
> So, the power arrangement didn't blow up the Q270 monitor, and the cable seems to work OK (at least on the old monitor). The totally blank screen (not a flicker) seems to indicate that the monitor is not processing the signal from my computer. So much for plug-and-play! I realize that there could be some hardware problem inside the Q270, but I don't have any way of evaluating that unless I take the monitor to a computer repair shop that might have one of the appropriate GPU's.
> I will do that if necessary, but thought I would ask a couple of questions first: (1) what are the odds that my old display adapter just can't talk to the Q270? (My guess at this point, near 100%), (2) what's the optimum replacement for me? (I'm not into gaming and overclocking, just want a very clear image for Microsoft Office, photos, videos &#8230 Probably, something under $100 that one or more club member has actually used with success. (3) Are there any tricks to get it running?
> 
> My Computer: HP Desktop
> Model: p6331p
> Processor: AMD Athlon IIX4 630 2.80 GHz
> RAM: 8.00 GB
> System Type: 64-bit Operating System
> Windows 7 Home Premium w/ Service Pack 1
> My Display Adapter
> ATI Radeon HD 4200 ver. 8.862 3.0
> My Existing Monitor
> ViewSonic VX2235wm
> My New Monitor
> Yamakazi Catleap Q270 LED
> DVI-D Dual Connector (only one)


Hi from what I can tell your GPU will not work, I've used a mates PC to see if it would work as he has a GPU like yours, Best bet is a Asus HD 6450 SILENT EDITION 1024MB.. Cheap and will do the job


----------



## gibsy

Hi fellas! I'm planning to buy two of 2B's catleaps for dual monitors setup.. could someone who has already has two of these to post their picture of the monitors side by side?thanks!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibsy*
> 
> Hi fellas! I'm planning to buy two of 2B's catleaps for dual monitors setup.. could someone who has already has two of these to post their picture of the monitors side by side?thanks!


Where are you getting 2Bs?


----------



## DonkeyShowisaNoNo

Just got mine in today and it is STUNNING!! I would upload the unboxing photos but there seems to be quite a few up here already. Anyhow, I am very pleased with this purchase.

On a side note I ordered mine from dcsamsungmall on the morning of 24th and it arrived at my doorstep in Colorado the afternoon of the 26th. Model 2d, 0 dead pixels found and no uneven back lighting. The stand is a POS like everyone else has already noted, but I plan to swap it out in the near future. For those of you on the fence with cash to burn IT IS WELL WORTH THE INVESTMENT!!!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonkeyShowisaNoNo*
> 
> Just got mine in today and it is STUNNING!! I would upload the unboxing photos but there seems to be quite a few up here already. Anyhow, I am very pleased with this purchase.
> On a side note I ordered mine from dcsamsungmall on the morning of 24th and it arrived at my doorstep in Colorado the afternoon of the 26th. Model 2d, 0 dead pixels found and no uneven back lighting. The stand is a POS like everyone else has already noted, but I plan to swap it out in the near future. For those of you on the fence with cash to burn IT IS WELL WORTH THE INVESTMENT!!!


Pics of it set up?









I always thought that dcsamsungmall would be out of the good ones since they've sold so much.. guess not.


----------



## Kosta88

I see dcsamsungmall has the most monitors sold.
I have been contemplating either dcsamsungmall or bigclothcraft.

Are there differences?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> I see dcsamsungmall has the most monitors sold.
> I have been contemplating either dcsamsungmall or bigclothcraft.
> Are there differences?


Those are the 2 I'm stumped between. Bigclothcraft is a bit cheaper, but I don't know which is a better choice for odds of getting a flawless panel. Mostly luck I guess.


----------



## eternal7trance

I got a flawless panel but then it died in a week.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> Another thing crossed my mind. eBay has an offer to do three year warranty/insurance on the item you're buying through another company (via SquareTrade http://pages.ebay.com/warranty/squaretrade.html ). Would it be worth it on a product like this, do you think? You think it would cover a monitor just up and dying in two years? They make it look like they cover it, but somehow this is hard for me to believe.


I purchased one on mine - just one - since I could use it on either one technically.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea where I could get a spare power adaptor for my Catleap, just in case the one supplied goes pop?
> 
> Many thanks


eBay has them. Do a search since we are not allowed to post links here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I had no luck contacting the seller about my broken internal cable, so I now have a non-functioning Catleap monitor (folks, be *VERY* careful taking off the cover if you intend to do so!!)
> Scribby, I know your priority is sourcing the boards, and that's fine, but it sounds like it's still going to be a while (if ever) that they're ready for purchase. In the meantime, can you PM me the contact info so I can inquire about a new cable? Or inquire on my behalf? I'll gladly pay for this. I have a $350 monitor right now that's non-functional. I know this is my own fault, but nevertheless I would appreciate it greatly if I could get this fixed.
> 
> Thanks!


Yes, be careful with those cables. I don't have a source for cables - been working on those. Which cables do you need?


----------



## bigmac11

dcsamsungmall no longer has the Catleap


----------



## thedymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Those are the 2 I'm stumped between. Bigclothcraft is a bit cheaper, but I don't know which is a better choice for odds of getting a flawless panel. Mostly luck I guess.


I got a great screen from bigclothcraft, and I got my monitor in less than 48 hours from ordering it. That's just my experience with him.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> dcsamsungmall no longer has the Catleap


????? Search "Yamakasi Catleap" and it's the first one


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedymo*
> 
> I got a great screen from bigclothcraft, and I got my monitor in less than 48 hours from ordering it. That's just my experience with him.


I'll probably go with him, cheaper and less sold but not none sold. If I ever work up the guts to actually order one


----------



## bigmac11

I was searching his store and only two models were listed and neither was a Catleap


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> I was searching his store and only two models were listed and neither was a Catleap


Weird. He probably doesn't have it listed in his store or something.


----------



## boostinsteve

Just ordered mine. Hopefully will get here fairly quick. The seller I went with was dcsamsungmall. Had good reviews, so hopefully no bs will arise from this.


----------



## bjgrenke

Real happy right now.

I sent a message to bigclothcraft asking him *1)* if he has any 2B models, and *2)* if the perfect pixel model also means no backlight issue. He responded about 4 hours later saying that the 2B models means that it was manufactured in February, so January = 2A, Feb = 2B, March = 2C, and April = 2D obviously. He said most of his stock ATM is 2C and 2D. I didn't really mind, I was mostly just curious. His response for my second question was great. He said that he's unsure of which models have the backlight issue, and he said that if I wanted, when I ordered he would personally check my monitor for the backlight issue to make sure. So looks like I'll be going with him







Just gotta sell my darn laptop now..


----------



## PurdueCIA

Been using the catleap 2B for around 3 weeks now with ATi 6950 2GB OC'd to 100Hz . Purchased from bigclothcraft and very satisfied - power brick just stays warm from hours of usage and the included cable works just fine...so far. With the help of a friend, I was able to bring it back from the dead after I broke the OSD connector (controls on/off, brightness) to the PCB.

Has anybody ever used the SquareTrade warranty on the catleap? Does this warranty cover monitor that has been opened (to remove the stand)?
3 years warranty for $54 is very affordable....shipping both ways would be covered (big plus, considering the weight and size of the monitor) and full item price paid back to you if SquareTrade can't fix it.

Thanks.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Been using the catleap 2B for around 3 weeks now with ATi 6950 2GB OC'd to 100Hz . Purchased from bigclothcraft and very satisfied - power brick just stays warm from hours of usage and the included cable works just fine...so far. With the help of a friend, I was able to bring it back from the dead after I broke the OSD connector (controls on/off, brightness) to the PCB.
> 
> Has anybody ever used the SquareTrade warranty on the catleap? Does this warranty cover monitor that has been opened (to remove the stand)?
> 3 years warranty for $54 is very affordable....shipping both ways would be covered (big plus, considering the weight and size of the monitor) and full item price paid back to you if SquareTrade can't fix it.
> 
> Thanks.


There are no security features on these that would allow someone to visually tell that you opened the monitor in the first place assuming you didn't go all crazy on the bezel of course. Also, if you were to send it in, I would recommend re-attaching everything that was removed (stand, arc, etc.) just in case. Squaretrade probably does a little research into what the heck these are and without the proper bits, they may kill off any warranty claim due to someone futzing under the hood.

Also, glad to hear you got the OSD back up - I needed the extra one I had for replication purposes!


----------



## thyroid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea where I could get a spare power adaptor for my Catleap, just in case the one supplied goes pop?
> Many thanks


Yep, ill PM you.

And I'm not sure if it's allowed to link here so if anyone need the info, PM me.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thyroid*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea where I could get a spare power adaptor for my Catleap, just in case the one supplied goes pop?
> Many thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, ill PM you.
> 
> And I'm not sure if it's allowed to link here so if anyone need the info, PM me.
Click to expand...

Good call on your part - no we are not allowed to link eBay - any other store, reseller, etc. is fine, just not auctions.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Been using the catleap 2B for around 3 weeks now with ATi 6950 2GB OC'd to 100Hz . Purchased from bigclothcraft and very satisfied - power brick just stays warm from hours of usage and the included cable works just fine...so far. With the help of a friend, I was able to bring it back from the dead after I broke the OSD connector (controls on/off, brightness) to the PCB.
> Has anybody ever used the SquareTrade warranty on the catleap? Does this warranty cover monitor that has been opened (to remove the stand)?
> 3 years warranty for $54 is very affordable....shipping both ways would be covered (big plus, considering the weight and size of the monitor) and full item price paid back to you if SquareTrade can't fix it.
> Thanks.


You should get some non-oc internals and keep the OC PCBs


----------



## uncle marty

My monitor has just been delivered from Bigcloth, but it's a 2C, I'm so disappointed. My only hope is this PCB hack!


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *uncle marty*
> 
> My monitor has just been delivered from Bigcloth, but it's a 2C, I'm so disappointed. My only hope is this PCB hack!


That's like saying you bought the megamillions lottery and disappointingly, you did not win 50 million dollars.


----------



## fimmwolf

Well I bit the bullet and bought one. I got it from green-sum on eBay. Decided to pay the extra for pixel perfect, which it is. The monitor arrived today (4 days from Korea to Australia) It appears to be a *2D* model PCB. The serial number on the side of the box says *Q270SE2D1LP0111* I haven't tried any overclock yet but when I un-tick hide refresh rates that this monitor cannot display 60Hz appears to be the only option.

UPDATE: *67 Hz* seems to be the max I can get it to.

I have a question though regarding Hypermatrix's youtube tutorial found here: 




I notice that he only changes the refresh rate first time around. He does state in the video that changing the pixel clock has the same effect as changing the refresh rate. Is it necessary to change the pixel clock and NOT the refresh rate or are they completely interchangeable?


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Been using the catleap 2B for around 3 weeks now with ATi 6950 2GB OC'd to 100Hz . Purchased from bigclothcraft and very satisfied - power brick just stays warm from hours of usage and the included cable works just fine...so far. With the help of a friend, I was able to bring it back from the dead after I broke the OSD connector (controls on/off, brightness) to the PCB.
> Has anybody ever used the SquareTrade warranty on the catleap? Does this warranty cover monitor that has been opened (to remove the stand)?
> 3 years warranty for $54 is very affordable....shipping both ways would be covered (big plus, considering the weight and size of the monitor) and full item price paid back to you if SquareTrade can't fix it.
> Thanks.


That is great that you are running @100hz I can only get 80hz to work, with my ati card. (Using Cru) What program are you using to do this? I would love to get to 100hz


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> That's like saying you bought the megamillions lottery and disappointingly, you did not win 50 million dollars.


This


----------



## Kosta88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Real happy right now.
> I sent a message to bigclothcraft asking him *1)* if he has any 2B models, and *2)* if the perfect pixel model also means no backlight issue. He responded about 4 hours later saying that the 2B models means that it was manufactured in February, so January = 2A, Feb = 2B, March = 2C, and April = 2D obviously. He said most of his stock ATM is 2C and 2D. I didn't really mind, I was mostly just curious. His response for my second question was great. He said that he's unsure of which models have the backlight issue, and he said that if I wanted, when I ordered he would personally check my monitor for the backlight issue to make sure. So looks like I'll be going with him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just gotta sell my darn laptop now..


I had the same experience of him replying. He also said he will personally check. If I get the guts together to order, I'll ask him to do that. He is the only seller that actually replies inside of 24h hours on emails, and I wrote 4 altogether.


----------



## Kosta88

It's funny though, that with Squaretrade, you can take the warranty on the dcsamsungmall item, but not with the bigclothcraft item.


----------



## uncle marty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sxcerino*
> 
> That's like saying you bought the megamillions lottery and disappointingly, you did not win 50 million dollars.


I know two people who have bought off him who got 2B, one who got 2C. Not lottery odds.

If there was a place where I could get guaranteed 2B, I would have bought from there, I took a risk and lost. Let me be disappointed.

Still a good monitor, it won't be replacing my 120 hz 23.6 LG as my main. What is the latest on the replacement PCB? This thread needs a FAQ section.


----------



## rolfathan

I'm the only one who craves the resolution more than the 100hz? I even play FPS games. =/

I just feel the resolution coupled with the great colors and contrast would help me spot an enemy off in the distance. *shrugs*

Edit: also wanted to mention, I've contacted bigclothcraft about matte versions of his monitors. (I'm asking especially about catleap, but asking for ANY with matte)


----------



## Kosta88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> I'm the only one who craves the resolution more than the 100hz? I even play FPS games. =/


Nah, I crave more about the size of the screen, the resolution and IPS, less about those 100Hz. I'd be just as happy getting a 2C or 2D. 60Hz is enough for me. I rarely play action shooters, mostly Starcraft2, and Flight Simulator X.


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> I'm the only one who craves the resolution more than the 100hz? I even play FPS games. =/
> 
> I just feel the resolution coupled with the great colors and contrast would help me spot an enemy off in the distance. *shrugs*
> 
> Edit: also wanted to mention, I've contacted bigclothcraft about matte versions of his monitors. (I'm asking especially about catleap, but asking for ANY with matte)


Yeah dude, I got this for the resolution and IPS more than anything. I havn't used a 120Hz monitor before (just 75Hz, but those were damn nice) so that is why I got this one, hoping for the PCB Upgrade kit. If I don't get it, I still have an awesome monitor though.

And yeah, it does help pick out enemies ALOT.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> eBay has them. Do a search since we are not allowed to post links here.
> 
> Yes, be careful with those cables. I don't have a source for cables - been working on those. Which cables do you need?


Just the center lower right cable, seen here..


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Djankie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadman*
> 
> And yeah, it does help pick out enemies ALOT.


For me personally it does not really matter whether it is an IPS or non IPS screen. I cannot pick out the enemies more easy with IPS than with an NON-IPS imho.


----------



## Mr Ripper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> For me personally it does not really matter whether it is an IPS or non IPS screen. I cannot pick out the enemies more easy with IPS than with an NON-IPS imho.


That is mainly in reference to 1920x1080 vs 2560x1440 resolution and not the IPS part.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> It's funny though, that with Squaretrade, you can take the warranty on the dcsamsungmall item, but not with the bigclothcraft item.


ebay sellers have to create an account with SQ before it shows up on the auction. SQ will still cover it though if you go to their website directly (at a slightly higher price I believe - like $5 - over an ebay purchased link.)


----------



## darrenb123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalston*
> 
> You probably have about 60fps and this is a 60hz display (unless you've OC'd it) so you need to use vsync or find a way to run at a higher (or lower) framerate.


Thanks!, I will try this out on the weekend.


----------



## rakunSA

Is this something I should get now and hope for the new PCBs or just wait? I've noticed that prices jumped back up to around 350 when ppl were getting it for around 320 couple of weeks ago.


----------



## iamSneaky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> Is this something I should get now and hope for the new PCBs or just wait? I've noticed that prices jumped back up to around 350 when ppl were getting it for around 320 couple of weeks ago.


Chances are that if the special run of the Catleaps with the 100+Hz PCB comes through, they would most likely be more expensive than what is for sale now.
At least that is my guess. I couldn't wait so I just bit the bullet, got a 2C version so nothing over 67Hz but honestly it is awesome.
I play alot of BF3 and it still craps all over my old ASUS 23.6" VH242.
If I were you I'd go for it, prices from here on out are only going to increase ..... looks like Scribby has the Modded PCB's on the way









We're still eagerly waiting Scribby


----------



## Rob Cooper

Thanks for the straight ahead recommendation. I appreciate it.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> There are no security features on these that would allow someone to visually tell that you opened the monitor in the first place assuming you didn't go all crazy on the bezel of course. Also, if you were to send it in, I would recommend re-attaching everything that was removed (stand, arc, etc.) just in case. Squaretrade probably does a little research into what the heck these are and without the proper bits, they may kill off any warranty claim due to someone futzing under the hood.
> 
> Also, glad to hear you got the OSD back up - I needed the extra one I had for replication purposes!


Oh.. the bezel all around the monitor is already chipped at numerous spots...I used the flat head screwdriver tip to seperate them. The bezel plastic is so soft you can easily chip it by prying it open with toothpick. The correct tools would be definetely required...maybe a guitar pick or something soft - I tried credit cards and they're not stiff enough to open the bezel.

So SquareTrade would definetely see the evidence I have opened it prior. If they do refuse to fix the product because I already opened it..will the warranty fees be refunded?


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Oh.. the bezel all around the monitor is already chipped at numerous spots...I used the flat head screwdriver tip to seperate them. The bezel plastic is so soft you can easily chip it by prying it open with toothpick. The correct tools would be definetely required...maybe a guitar pick or something soft - I tried credit cards and they're not stiff enough to open the bezel.
> So SquareTrade would definetely see the evidence I have opened it prior. If they do refuse to fix the product because I already opened it..will the warranty fees be refunded?


They probably won't refund the coverage because you pried the plastic open. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. You could still TRY claiming it came that way.


----------



## vafan13

What advantage is there to getting the tempered glass and does it have more glare?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vafan13*
> 
> What advantage is there to getting the tempered glass and does it have more glare?


If you are in a Korean bang cafe then tempered is vital. Otherwise it is just for looks (Apple-esque.) People report more glare - others don't. I am not sure if there is someone out there with one of each to test it out.


----------



## sfsilicon

Ran into the Vesa mount shorting issue with too long screws. I thought at first that I was not effected, but yesterday I moved the monitor on the arm and I got a pop and the screen would turn on, but no display. I was worried I had fried something, e.g that power supply plug issue. Today I took the mount off and tried powering on again and thankfully the monitor powered on and displayed everything perfectly. PHEW!!!

Remember to put washers under your mount screws if they are long enough to touch the underlying metal.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vafan13*
> 
> What advantage is there to getting the tempered glass and does it have more glare?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> If you are in a Korean bang cafe then tempered is vital. Otherwise it is just for looks (Apple-esque.) People report more glare - others don't. I am not sure if there is someone out there with one of each to test it out.


Also if I'm not mistaken it makes the panel itself level with the bezel as opposed to the bezel sticking out a couple mm. Might get the glass model just for that feature.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Also if I'm not mistaken it makes the panel itself level with the bezel as opposed to the bezel sticking out a couple mm. Might get the glass model just for that feature.


The tempered glass is just glued over the normal monitor, so it doesn't really make anything level as the tempered glass covers the panel with an air gap and glues to the bezel itself. The surface will be flat, obviously (cause it's a sheet of glass) but there's no design differences that help the panel align better with the bezel (the glass is not inset inside the bezel frame).


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> The tempered glass is just glued over the normal monitor, so it doesn't really make anything level as the tempered glass covers the panel with an air gap and glues to the bezel itself. The surface will be flat, obviously (cause it's a sheet of glass) but there's no design differences that help the panel align better with the bezel (the glass is not inset inside the bezel frame).


That's what I mean, the actual glass leveling with the bezel, not the panel. Bigclothcraft doesn't have the glass model anyways so I'll just get the regular cheapest one


----------



## rakunSA

just fyi for you guys since I finally got a message back from bigcloth:
Quote:


> Hello
> I am sorry about that.
> I can't check version of Monitor.
> Monitor can use 2B or 2C PCB.
> I asked manufactor about this.
> They use 2B or 2C accordng to stock of part.
> 
> Someome say Serial number "Q270SE2B1......." has 2B PCB.
> But, "B" in serial number means manufacted month.
> A(JAN), B(FEB), C(Mar), D(Apr).
> 
> Manufactor don;t send accurate information which monitor use 2B.
> And All I have is manufacted on Mar and Apr.
> Thanks
> 
> - bigclothcraft


guess bigcloth is totally out of the 2B monitors. I noticed that the SE version from bigcloth is more expensive than the one with speakers/no glass. Any reason?

also is zero bright dot the same as perfect pixel?


----------



## Tomach

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> just fyi for you guys since I finally got a message back from bigcloth:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello
> I am sorry about that.
> I can't check version of Monitor.
> Monitor can use 2B or 2C PCB.
> I asked manufactor about this.
> They use 2B or 2C accordng to stock of part.
> 
> Someome say Serial number "Q270SE2B1......." has 2B PCB.
> But, "B" in serial number means manufacted month.
> A(JAN), B(FEB), C(Mar), D(Apr).
> 
> Manufactor don;t send accurate information which monitor use 2B.
> And All I have is manufacted on Mar and Apr.
> Thanks
> 
> - bigclothcraft
> 
> 
> 
> guess bigcloth is totally out of the 2B monitors. I noticed that the SE version from bigcloth is more expensive than the one with speakers/no glass. Any reason?
> 
> also is zero bright dot the same as perfect pixel?
Click to expand...

I would argue that i you had black pixels it wouldn't cover it. I have shimian lite (no pixel guarantee) from bigc with 2 black pixels with both having 2 subpixels. Red and green. Very annoying when you watch something on screen and your eyes fixate on the dead pixel. Very very annoying


----------



## scatlm

Does anyone know if they plan to come out with a 30"er?


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *scatlm*
> 
> Does anyone know if they plan to come out with a 30"er?


They have 30 inch ones, but they're just expensive as dell/hp counterparts.


----------



## ewitte

A bit cheaper its like $700-800 versus $1100-1200. Nowhere near as good a deal 30-40%. Right now dell wants $1399 but there is a 15% coupon. Downside is I get tax on top of that so its almost $1300 still if thats what I wanted.


----------



## killuchen

Someone is selling one of these locally and for fairly cheap too. But I don't know how to tell if this is the OC version or not. He sent me a pic of the tags.

monitor.JPG 2793k .JPG file


http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Killuchen/monitor.jpg


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> Someone is selling one of these locally and for fairly cheap too. But I don't know how to tell if this is the OC version or not. He sent me a pic of the tags.
> 
> monitor.JPG 2793k .JPG file
> 
> http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Killuchen/monitor.jpg


2C serial it's the march version not the feb OC version I believe.


----------



## Pyr0

it's a 2C version, so no OC


----------



## killuchen

dang


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> Someone is selling one of these locally and for fairly cheap too. But I don't know how to tell if this is the OC version or not. He sent me a pic of the tags.
> 
> monitor.JPG 2793k .JPG file
> 
> http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y84/Killuchen/monitor.jpg


What is fairly cheap?


----------



## killuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> What is fairly cheap?


It's only letting me send 2 PMs a day =/. Do you have another way I can contact you?


----------



## eternal7trance

I wish the customer support for these monitors was quicker. I'm still waiting on a reply from dcsamsungmall so I can return my broken monitor.


----------



## DonkeyShowisaNoNo

I feel you on that, I hate waiting for customer support.

To be fair though these guys are half way around the world in a different time zone and they sell a lot more items on ebay than just these monitors.


----------



## Kosta88

I bit the bullet...









Now, should I start praying or hoping?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> I bit the bullet...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, should I start praying or hoping?


Your odds are actually better than you'd expect. I saw a poll on a forum here for which Korean monitor purchased and it's condition, and it was like 60% good Catleap, 8% bad Catleap, and the rest were the other monitors.


----------



## avattz

Anyone have any updates on the custom Catleaps? I'm tempted on ordering the non-OC version off of eBay, but I'd like to know if the custom Catleaps is still planned or died out.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Management are working on getting the custom OC monitors but as to when I can not say.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> Anyone have any updates on the custom Catleaps? I'm tempted on ordering the non-OC version off of eBay, but I'd like to know if the custom Catleaps is still planned or died out.


If they ever do work out, the price will most definitely be much higher than the regular ones. (Cause OCN for some reason needs to make money on these things). And I wouldn't rely on it. The overclocking PCBs have a better chance of going through, so I'd go with one of those.


----------



## thedymo

Has anyone had any issues with the brightness/power buttons just stop working on them? I wonder if it has to do with me taking apart my monitor and putting it back together, but I already tried using it after I put it back together and they were fine. Is this something to be concerned about? I probably am out of luck on a return since I took the plastic off and it's definitely not going back on since a piece broke.


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> Anyone have any updates on the custom Catleaps? I'm tempted on ordering the non-OC version off of eBay, but I'd like to know if the custom Catleaps is still planned or died out.


The guys and a few volunteers already have a website setup and it is quoted to be up for order in 1~2 weeks. This will definitely be a limited run to gather interest so if you want one you better grab one or else you'll be waiting a few extra months to never depending on what the manufacturers are thinking.

In short, its just the overclockable catleaps. Nothing fancy such as custom logos or thinner bezels and whatnot.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by bQvle View Post
> 28. April UPDATE
> GOOD NEWS! I have been told that first batch of monitors should be ready for sale in approximately 1-2 weeks!
> It will be 100% like old Q270LED "2B" versions, so it will be with speakers.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> The guys and a few volunteers already have a website setup and it is quoted to be up for order in 1~2 weeks. This will definitely be a limited run to gather interest so if you want one you better grab one or else you'll be waiting a few extra months to never depending on what the manufacturers are thinking.
> In short, its just the overclockable catleaps. Nothing fancy such as custom logos or thinner bezels and whatnot.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by bQvle View Post
> 28. April UPDATE
> GOOD NEWS! I have been told that first batch of monitors should be ready for sale in approximately 1-2 weeks!
> It will be 100% like old Q270LED "2B" versions, so it will be with speakers.
Click to expand...

To add to that, Scribby said that the 2B PCBs will be available shortly after the monitors are released, for those who already have your Catleaps.

Now watch OCN delete these posts..


----------



## Kosta88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> Anyone have any updates on the custom Catleaps? I'm tempted on ordering the non-OC version off of eBay, but I'd like to know if the custom Catleaps is still planned or died out.


Thanks, that's comforting. I even went the Perfect Pixel and bigcloth said he is going to check the monitor for me. Let's hope the best!

I don't really care about the OC, since most of my games are running at 60 or less. My hope is for a good screen. And if 2B ever become separately available as upgrade, well, why the hell not...


----------



## Agenesis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> The guys and a few volunteers already have a website setup and it is quoted to be up for order in 1~2 weeks. This will definitely be a limited run to gather interest so if you want one you better grab one or else you'll be waiting a few extra months to never depending on what the manufacturers are thinking.
> In short, its just the overclockable catleaps. Nothing fancy such as custom logos or thinner bezels and whatnot.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by bQvle View Post
> 28. April UPDATE
> GOOD NEWS! I have been told that first batch of monitors should be ready for sale in approximately 1-2 weeks!
> It will be 100% like old Q270LED "2B" versions, so it will be with speakers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> To add to that, Scribby said that the 2B PCBs will be available shortly after the monitors are released, for those who already have your Catleaps.
> 
> Now watch OCN delete these posts..
Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with discussion. This thread along with many others are still up, aren't they?









I might pick up a few extra PCBs myself just in case I want to expand later on and don't want to be stuck with regular old 60hz's.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Agenesis*
> 
> Nothing wrong with discussion. This thread along with many others are still up, aren't they?


Exactly, although me and Hypermatrix's posts got deleted a page or two back


----------



## halodude23

Hey guys, I've narrowed down the Korean monitors that are good but I'm not sure which.. If you could help me choose, then that would expedite my buying, Thanks!
1. CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 27"
2. YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27
3. PCBANK PB2700 SUPER 27" Q-HD LED

Personally, I would've gone with the Crossover since I heard the "2B" models can be overclocked to 100 Hz and now they don't have it anymore, I'm assuming it depends on luck if you get it (I heard the Yamasaki has a common Dead Pixels)? But now I'm really confused, I just want a really good monitor with a good stand included + being able to overclock to at least 100 Hz? If not then, should I wait for the 100 Hz models to come out? Thanks!


----------



## Kosta88

All these screens have same panels. They all, I believe, have same PCBs. They are basically same screens. The only difference is on the outside, Crossover having more stable stand, but it also costs more.
Now, you are in the Catleap monitor club thread, what do you think the most users have here? Besides, I ordered Catleap also not an hour ago...

Concerning Dead Pixels, there is no way to know. Your odds are good, but you might as well get a monitor with a dead pixel(s).

You can buy a Perfect Pixel guarantee, but this only guarantees that you will have dead pixels if any problem, not stuck pixels.

If you want good monitor + good stand, that is a Crossover. Being able to overclock - not avail ATM.

If you should wait, that is up to you to decide. We still don't know when and if 100Hz versions are really coming out. And at what price.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> Hey guys, I've narrowed down the Korean monitors that are good but I'm not sure which.. If you could help me choose, then that would expedite my buying, Thanks!
> 1. CROSSOVER 27Q LED-P 27"
> 2. YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27
> 3. PCBANK PB2700 SUPER 27" Q-HD LED
> Personally, I would've gone with the Crossover since I heard the "2B" models can be overclocked to 100 Hz and now they don't have it anymore, I'm assuming it depends on luck if you get it (I heard the Yamasaki has a common Dead Pixels)? But now I'm really confused, I just want a really good monitor with a good stand included + being able to overclock to at least 100 Hz? If not then, should I wait for the 100 Hz models to come out? Thanks!


No matter which monitor you buy, you're almost guaranteed to not get a 2B one that overclocks. They're all the exact same except for looks, and your chances of getting a defective one are the same with all the monitors. If getting 100hz+ is that important to you, wait a couple weeks until the 120hz ones become available from Scribbythegreat and Hypermatrix.


----------



## halodude23

I think I'll just wait then, it's not that important, but yeah. Thanks for the advice.


----------



## bjgrenke

It'll be way smoother in games and even things as simple as moving your cursor.


----------



## geoxile

So are there any overclockable Yamakasi monitors that have HDMI? The mutli-display version?


----------



## adrianpang

I followed this thread and went ahead to buy the Q270 LED MULTI from GMarket. Using the VGA and HDMI input, I noticed that there are random distorted lines that flashes on and off when browsing webpages and videos. The lines always appear at the fixed locations of the webpage and videos but if I change the view, the distorted lines can sometimes disappear. If I am viewing something static, there are no distorted lines at all. I am not overclocking the monitor and have been running at 60Hz. I am replacing my video card soon so I can test it with my desktop PC with dual-link DVI. Any advice to fix the issue will be of great help. (I tried to contact the seller on GMarket and he has yet to reply about the possibility to have it exchanged or returned).


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> So are there any overclockable Yamakasi monitors that have HDMI? The mutli-display version?


I think the odds of getting an OCing multi input version is the same as the regular versions. So 1 in a million at this time. Unless you really need it you should steer away from the multi version due to big input lag on those monitors.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I think the odds of getting an OCing multi input version is the same as the regular versions. So 1 in a million at this time. Unless you really need it you should steer away from the multi version due to big input lag on those monitors.


One in a million eh...

For the regular version too you say?


----------



## Balsagna

I am in the market for buying one of the korean monitors. What are the chances of getting a faulty/ dead or stuck pixels on one of them? Who should I buy from?

I have been gone for several months and am out of the whole crave on these monitors


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> One in a million eh...
> For the regular version too you say?


Somewhere around there, according to Bigclothcraft;
Quote:


> I can't check version of Monitor.
> Monitor can use 2B or 2C PCB.
> I asked manufactor about this.
> They use 2B or 2C accordng to stock of part.
> 
> Someome say Serial number "Q270SE2B1......." has 2B PCB.
> But, "B" in serial number means manufacted month.
> A(JAN), B(FEB), C(Mar), D(Apr).
> 
> Manufactor don;t send accurate information which monitor use 2B.
> And *All I have is manufacted on Mar and Apr.*


Also it's been a long while since someone has received a 2B. Alternatively you can wait a week or two for the 120hz OCing models from Hypermatrix and Scribby and them come in, or you can buy a regular one off eBay, and buy an OCing PCB from them which will be available after the monitors.


----------



## bjgrenke

*@Balsagna* Contact bigclothcraft and he will most likely offer to personally check the monitor for defects before shipping it out.


----------



## Zulli85

You are missing the letter k in the OP where you wrote "don't ask me, as a mod."


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> *@Balsagna* Contact bigclothcraft and he will most likely offer to personally check the monitor for defects before shipping it out.


Is he a member here or on eBay? Like I said I have been out of the loop and it's a pain doing all the research over 3G on my iPhone lol. Plus my 3G is. 2 bars here.....

Out of the Korean monitors they are all the same panels just looks and stand quality is what differentiates them, correct?

What else is required with the monitors to get running? I have 2x 7970s if that matters. What do I have to be aware or that is different when buying a Korean monitor for example the boot up screen I briefly read does not pop up on. P67 boards?

Fill me in please so thy can has my money


----------



## adrianpang




----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Is he a member here or on eBay? Like I said I have been out of the loop and it's a pain doing all the research over 3G on my iPhone lol. Plus my 3G is. 2 bars here.....
> Out of the Korean monitors they are all the same panels just looks and stand quality is what differentiates them, correct?
> What else is required with the monitors to get running? I have 2x 7970s if that matters. What do I have to be aware or that is different when buying a Korean monitor for example the boot up screen I briefly read does not pop up on. P67 boards?
> Fill me in please so thy can has my money


Bigclothcraft is an eBay seller of if I'm not mistaken all of the Korean monitors. They're all the exact same panel just in a different casing and stand. I'd recommend going with the Catleap though since is has the biggest community and it'll likely be the first for OCing and that kind of stuff. You'll probably need a better DVI-D cable as the one is comes with is junk, and you'll need a standard power cable like this: (the one it comes with is Korean)

Your 7970s will work fine since they have a dual DVI port. I'm not too sure about the boot screen issues, maybe someone else will chime in.

Hope I helped


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adrianpang*


Are you using the DVI cable that came with the monitor? Try a different one.


----------



## adrianpang

I tried 3 different cables. It still the same. I even tried using HDMI too.


----------



## rakunSA

I ended up buying one from samsung_korea as it was $348 with zero bright pixel (which I'm assuming is the perfect pixel thing). I used amex to buy as they'll cover if something happens (at least they did before with broken iPhones). I'll keep you guys updated and hope to bring good news!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adrianpang*


Those lines look more like cable (DVI) or possibly GPU issues rather than monitor. What cable are you using? Have you done a clean install of your card's drivers?

Report back!


----------



## adrianpang

I am using the VGA input now. I am using a Lenovo T400 with HD 3450. I tried various resolutions like 1680 x 1050 which used to worked well with the same VGA cable with my old Samsung 226BW. I tried 2 other VGA cables and it still has the same issue. I took another laptop (a Fujistu) and try its HDMI input and has the same lines as well.

I will try to uninstall and re-install the Raedon drivers again and report back.


----------



## adrianpang

OK. I went into BIOS to check if I set anything wrong and I saw the same lines in BIOS. I doubt it has anything to do with the video card drivers now. I will check using the other laptops I have in the house before checking with a desktop next week.


----------



## adrianpang

I tried 3 different laptops. All of them had the distorted lines. One had a dedicated Nvidia card, the other one had Intel integrated graphics, the last one has dedicated ATI card. Do you think it is advisable to open up the unit to check if there are any loose connectors? The bezel seems hard to remove from the stand removal guide.


----------



## bjgrenke

I don't own the monitor (yet) so I couldn't help you with opening it up. A loose connector is a possibility I guess, I just definitely don't think the problem is in the panel itself.


----------



## necriss

Those distorted lines also appear if monitor refresh rate is overclocked too far. Its most likely a PCB or internal cable issue.


----------



## adrianpang

I double-checked and it's at 60Hz. I guess I have to bite the bullet and open up the panel to re-sit the cables. Wish me luck. I hope it will solve the issue. I will report back once I am done.


----------



## urliam

I wonder if a new 120hz PCB will be free from an uneven back light issue? And how difficult is swaping PCBs for a non-qualified user... How do you think?


----------



## adrianpang

I have disassembled the unit and tried to re-sit the internal connectors but aren't very successful. I think there is something wrong with the PCB now. I need to send the unit back for repair. Tough luck.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adrianpang*
> 
> I have disassebled the unit and tried to re-sit the internal connectors but aren't very successful. I think there is something wrong with the PCB now. I need to send the unit back for repair. Tough luck.


I'm going to have to send mine back too. Tried it on two computers and used three cords. I don't have a picture on me, but mine looks like this. I wish I could just get a new PCB, I bet that would fix it.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Received a 2D monitor, and one side is darker as others have reported. At full brightness it is usable though.

I'm wondering if this is due to the controller boards. The 2D display is capable of 197 cd/m2 at full brightness, while my 2C is capable of 279 cd/m2 at full brightness. That would seem to indicate the LEDs in the 2D model are not being driven with the proper amount of current/voltage, since this is well under the 320 cd/m2 in the specs.

Can anyone else confirm their 2D is well under the advertised brightness?


----------



## NameMakingSux

So I finally bought one, no less than 5 minutes ago. I was dead set on a crossover for the better stand but in the end I went with the catleap as it was a little cheaper and I could be guaranteed no dead or bright pixels and no backlight bleed. Here is a message I received from green-sum that sold me on it.
Quote:


> Hello, Thank you for interest in our monitors. The Crossover company has policy for Perfect pixel, but that guarantees free exchange for Domestic. In our case, international shipping, is another issues. So We highly recommend Yamakasi Q270 series with perfect pixel. The perfect pixel option of Yamakasi guarantees 0 dead(bright)pixel, cause they will perform second Pixel test before it shipped. We have another item list for Yamakasi with Perfec pixel option. Item number is 140723272177. If you want monitor without dead pixel and backlight bleeding, that make you sure with that. Thank you.
> 
> - green-sum
> 
> Dear green-sum,
> 
> Hi there. I am very interested in purchasing one of these monitors. However, I am very active on computer fourms such as overclock.net and have read about some people getting monitors with several stuck/dead pixels and noticable backlight bleed and other such issues.
> 
> The quality of the screens seem to vary, and it's making me hesitant about making a purchase. I really want one but I would need to be assured I was getting one without any dead pixels whatsoever and no noticable backlight bleed as well. I know people have received some with no noticeable defects and if you could guarantee mine would be as well I would gladly buy one.


----------



## Steelbarrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mr Pixel*
> 
> Received a 2D monitor, and one side is darker as others have reported. At full brightness it is usable though.
> I'm wondering if this is due to the controller boards. The 2D display is capable of 197 cd/m2 at full brightness, while my 2C is capable of 279 cd/m2 at full brightness. That would seem to indicate the LEDs in the 2D model are not being driven with the proper amount of current/voltage, since this is well under the 320 cd/m2 in the specs.
> Can anyone else confirm their 2D is well under the advertised brightness?


I have a 2D and don't have any uneven brightness but I swear my monitor is incredibly dark.
I saw all these responses that these monitors were too bright and I had mine cranked to max and it still wasn't bright enough for my liking.
I was trying to find someone with a light meter or something to gauge the values but to no luck.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *necriss*
> 
> Those distorted lines also appear if monitor refresh rate is overclocked too far. Its most likely a PCB or internal cable issue.


Yup. Already reported that I can only get the overclock stable up to 125hz. Beyond that, start getting those lines. All the way up to 135hz.


----------



## urliam

I think some people don't understand the difference between a backlight bleeding problem and an uneven backlight one. I have no backlight bleeding and simultaneously there is a strong uneven backlight across my screen.


----------



## theshape

Hi, please let us know how it goes with your monitor because this seller currently has a sale. He dropped the price on perfect pixel to what a normal one would cost.


----------



## geoxile

So people are having these problems with the regular versions? Making me think twice about getting one. Also, is it possible to use 3D with these monitors?


----------



## Kepler

Just placed an order for two of these from green-sum for me and my wife in preparation for Diablo 3.

The ship date reported by ebay is May 15 to May 29 (SC, USA), although the item description referenced the 2-5 days shipping everyone seems to have been reporting. Should I be concerned? I'd like to have the stands swapped out and the monitor ready to go for Diablo's May 15 release date.

Otherwise, any solid (preferably inexpensive) stands that are recommended? I remember seeing a link to a couple, but can't seem to find it.


----------



## Djankie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> So people are having these problems with the regular versions? Making me think twice about getting one. Also, is it possible to use 3D with these monitors?


No, there is too much input lag for 3D. So if you'd buy a monitor just for 3D, you should skip this monitor.


----------



## DonkeyShowisaNoNo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kepler*
> 
> Just placed an order for two of these from green-sum for me and my wife in preparation for Diablo 3.
> The ship date reported by ebay is May 15 to May 29 (SC, USA), although the item description referenced the 2-5 days shipping everyone seems to have been reporting. Should I be concerned? I'd like to have the stands swapped out and the monitor ready to go for Diablo's May 15 release date.
> Otherwise, any solid (preferably inexpensive) stands that are recommended? I remember seeing a link to a couple, but can't seem to find it.


if it's anything like my shipping experience you will have your monitor shipped to your door step in 2 days or less!! It was actually shocking how fast they got the monitor shipped.....


----------



## Kepler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DonkeyShowisaNoNo*
> 
> if it's anything like my shipping experience you will have your monitor shipped to your door step in 2 days or less!! It was actually shocking how fast they got the monitor shipped.....


here's to hoping it's that fast and with no defects


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kepler*
> 
> Otherwise, any solid (preferably inexpensive) stands that are recommended? I remember seeing a link to a couple, but can't seem to find it.


This one is sturdy and not a bad price. If you want a wall mount I'd go with this. No swivel but if it's on the wall you don't really need swivel since generally you'll be facing square with the wall. SUPER cheap too.


----------



## theshape

I got a question regarding the multi port ones. Is there a button to switch inputs or does it only go by whatever cable is connected to it? I want to be able to have it connected to my pc and ps3 at the same time and just hit the button to switch inputs.


----------



## x0lliex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> I got a question regarding the multi port ones. Is there a button to switch inputs or does it only go by whatever cable is connected to it? I want to be able to have it connected to my pc and ps3 at the same time and just hit the button to switch inputs.


Yes there is a button to switch inputs. I have a PS3/XBOX (on a HDMI switch) connected to it while I have two computers (on a DVI KWM switch) connected to the monitor with no issues. When I turn it on it goes to the last used input.


----------



## rajamuffin

Does anyone know if the 2D serial number Catleap monitors can do pixel doubling so that they can accept a 720p input signal from an Xbox or PS3? If possible I would prefer the regular DVI only over the multi input monitor because of the reduced input lag and price.


----------



## Junkboy

Hey guys, so I'll be getting one of these a little later (100hz+ I hope) and didn't even think about how these would react to someone using an avr in between a PC and the monitor.

I currently have my sig rig hooked up, with a bunch of mini dp to dp/hdmi adapters with one hdmi cable going into my Harmon Kardon avr 2600 and the avr's output to my TV. Since I'm going with a 27" I feel like I don't actually need the 42" TV so I'll be re-arranging my room and selling the TV.

Now I'm wondering if I do this will the OC affect all the inputs and will my avr have any issue with it. It supports 3D so I would assume 120hz would be fine but TV and PC monitor specifications can vary. I would still want a dual monitor set up for multi tasking so I would probably use the ve258q as the second monitor. I would have an hdmi cable from the avr to the ve258q but if that would be an issue maybe a second catleap if I have to.

I have no idea if it will work but was wondering if anyone had run into the same issue. Would someone like to test it out for me? I ask here since most users will see it here.

I read more than a few pages but couldn't see anyone with my set up but this is a long thread so I must've missed it. Also note I can go Sli 460's 1gb so nvidia user tests are welcomed.









Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## quakermaas

Just ordered Perfect Pixel Catleap Q270 SE, from bigclothcraft on eBay

I know it is with out speakers, but is that with tempered glass or not ?

It doesn't say on the listing and I cant seem to find clear info to what the SE stands for

Edit: Just found the info...without speakers & without glass
















I didn't see the SE after the Korean writing

http://www.witechit.co.kr/product06-17.html

Please refrain from linking to eBay or any other auction site.


----------



## twebbas

Everyone in here still satisfied with their Catleap?


----------



## eternal7trance

I'm tempted to do a paypal request to get my money back from the guy I bought my monitor from. I keep asking him if I can return or get a refund and he still won't respond to me. It's been within the 14 day return policy too. It's been about a week and no word from him. The vendor I used was dcsamsungmall. He was fine and trying to help until he realized my monitor won't work and needs to be returned.


----------



## GranTurismo

Just to make sure I'm understanding the situation with the Catleap and refresh overclocking. Am I correct in stating that you're highly unlikely to get a 2B varient which can be overclocked to around 100 Hertz and that you'll most likely (if you buy one now) get one that can manage 67 htz at most. There's talk of OC ordering ones with the specific overclocable PCB but it's still up in the air, so to speak but some members have ordered the (clockable) PCB and will sell it/make it available to the rest of us? Is all of the above correct?

I know that this has already been discussed but there are so many posts and threads on the subject I'm not sure I've read all I need to.

A few more questions. I note that the Catleap has specific graphics cards listed with which it claims to be compatible. Are there cards it will not work with? I've a GTX 590 and I note it's not listed as being compatible. I can't for the life of me understand why it wouldn't be and a 580 would be. Are there any issues I should be aware of?

Final question. I've seen the input lag results (Low input latency is something which is very important to me!) and they're around 11 - 12 ms which is quite good (but not as low as some 24' TN panels obviously).

Can you all confirm (hard core gamers I mean) that this panel doesn't suffer from any lag or do any of you think that finding is not necessarily the case?

From what I read I want this monitor but like most I'm waiting for the 100 hertz option (if it ever arrives).

Thanks for your time.


----------



## Anthos

So I seem to have a small problem with my catleap.
Every morning I turn on my pc after the windows loading splash screen I get this: 

After I do a hard reset then everything is working fine until next morning when I have to do the same thing again. Anyone knows what's going on?


----------



## Jeetuska

Hello! I got my own catleap today and seeing as it was the 2b model, I decided to overclock it to 100hz (I have gtx 580). The overclocking works fine (BIG thanks for the guide) and games are SO smooth







Now im wondering if i need to keep this test mode enabled or not? I am also wondering if running the monitor @ 100hz 24/7 will strain it too much? Should i lower it to 60hz when im not playing? Also seeing that the powerbrick gets a bit (too?) hot worries me. Should i get a better powerbrick? I live in Finland so I think the stock one should be okay here?
I have 2 dead /stuck pixels on my monitor but they dont bother me at all. Im glad I bought the monitor


----------



## y2kcamaross

Havent been keeping track of this thread the past couple days, but what happened to the PCB updates that were in the OP, they are gone now


----------



## GranTurismo

Without you posting details obviously as it's against site policy, where'd you get it and was it simply pot luck that it happened to be a 2B? Or was there some way you managed to ensure it was a 2B first?


----------



## ocnm

I was looking to buy a catleap monitor when/if the 100hz oc version comes out.
Could you play at 4:3 aspect ratio at 100hz?


----------



## Loyrl

I have had my catleap now for a few weeks and I haven't had any issues with it. It has had A LOT of use, been playing TERA way too much, along with GW2 this past weekend, and some D3 beta. No unevenness, or stuck pixels. I am very happy I bought this monitor, and will purchase a second one if they ever start selling the 100hz ones. I do need a bigger desk though, I may go with the door desk.


----------



## geoxile

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Djankie*
> 
> No, there is too much input lag for 3D. So if you'd buy a monitor just for 3D, you should skip this monitor.


I guess it comes down to 3D or overclockable IPS, what do you think?


----------



## Kosta88

I think for 3D you just need TN. Fast and fast. Both Hz and input lag.


----------



## theshape

I just placed my order with green-sum for a multi with perfect pixel. Too good of a deal to pass up.


----------



## KazeyMe

So,

did just pick up my new baby.It just blows me away,what i did miss till now. Well i did jump of a 20" to this 27",expected a lot and I did not get disappointed a slightest bit.
I did order of bigcloth, the perfect pixel model. It is by the serial number a 2D,so i don*t think i will go through the process of trying to OC it,maybe when there is time.
What i did is,using the color change-files, thanks to the creator! And i did install the Monitor driver.

I did order it on the 23rd, did chit chat i little with the seller,and he did pack it up on the 26th. Arrived in Germany on the 29th,and this morning at a pick-up location near where i do live.
60€ for import regulations did come on top. (I did know about it..)

Any question,feel free to ask. After a little bit of testing,I can give you some inside view. =)

btw: still using my Sapphire 4870 Vapor-X . I*ll test some games later,though i don*t think it will work well. Still waiting for a 7870...

Have a nice day,

Kacey.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KazeyMe*
> 
> So,
> 
> did just pick up my new baby.It just blows me away,what i did miss till now. Well i did jump of a 20" to this 27",expected a lot and I did not get disappointed a slightest bit.
> I did order of bigcloth, the perfect pixel model. It is by the serial number a 2D,so i don*t think i will go through the process of trying to OC it,maybe when there is time.
> What i did is,using the color change-files, thanks to the creator! And i did install the Monitor driver.
> 
> I did order it on the 23rd, did chit chat i little with the seller,and he did pack it up on the 26th. Arrived in Germany on the 29th,and this morning at a pick-up location near where i do live.
> 60€ for import regulations did come on top. (I did know about it..)
> 
> Any question,feel free to ask. After a little bit of testing,I can give you some inside view. =)
> 
> btw: still using my Sapphire 4870 Vapor-X . I*ll test some games later,though i don*t think it will work well. Still waiting for a 7870...
> 
> Have a nice day,
> 
> Kacey.


Hi.

I live in Germany, but I am unsure of how the process will work, I ordered a pixel perfect from Bigclothcraft as well.

Do I have to go and pick it up or will Fedex/DHL bring it to the door ?

Do you have to pay the €60 or does it some times slip past the customs ?

If I do have to pay, is it to the delivery driver or online (what is the process here) ?

Is your monitor pixel perfect ?

Thanks


----------



## bigmac11

For anyone who ordered thru bigclothecraft how did you track it? The number I was supplied doesn't work on DHL, Fedex or USPS.


----------



## KazeyMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> I live in Germany, but I am unsure of how the process will work, I ordered a pixel perfect from Bigclothcraft as well.
> 
> Do I have to go and pick it up or will Fedex/DHL bring it to the door ?
> Do you have to pay the €60 or does it some times slip past the customs ?
> If I do have to pay, is it to the delivery driver or online (what is the process here) ?
> Is your monitor pixel perfect ?
> 
> Thanks


Hey mate.

DHL Driver delivered it to the door,unfortunately i was at work. So he called me(i did put my number on the questionlist bigcloth did send) and we did meet at the logistics center later.
I had to pay the 60€ directly to him,he did hand me all the papers from the customs. (no idea if it bypasses customs from time to time,i had to pay it







)
(Einfuhrumsatzsteuer ist es,keine Zollgebühren)
And yes,it is pixel perfect.


----------



## KazeyMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> For anyone who ordered thru bigclothecraft how did you track it? The number I was supplied doesn't work on DHL, Fedex or USPS.


Got a number like you said,and i did use the DHL homepage.

worked fine for me. Maybe ask him to recheck the number.


----------



## bigmac11

Is this the page you used http://www.dhl.com/en/express/tracking.html ? Thanks for the reply


----------



## KazeyMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Is this the page you used http://www.dhl.com/en/express/tracking.html ? Thanks for the reply


Well,i did use the german page. try it out,maybe it will work for you aswell: http://www.dhl.de/de.html (left side of the page,just paste the number in the box,and click "Jetzt suchen" -> search now .
(10 digits number)

No worries,I*m happy if i can help.


----------



## bigmac11

Didn't work but thanks again


----------



## mysterfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Didn't work but thanks again


Sometimes it takes a little while to show up as active, give it a few hours.

P.S. I've had mine for a few weeks now and I'm very happy with it! Can't wait for the new pcb's so I can OC it!


----------



## Niko-Time

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Didn't work but thanks again


Give http://www.packagetrackr.com a go


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jeetuska*
> 
> Hello! I got my own catleap today and seeing as it was the 2b model, I decided to overclock it to 100hz (I have gtx 580). The overclocking works fine (BIG thanks for the guide) and games are SO smooth
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now im wondering if i need to keep this test mode enabled or not? I am also wondering if running the monitor @ 100hz 24/7 will strain it too much? Should i lower it to 60hz when im not playing? Also seeing that the powerbrick gets a bit (too?) hot worries me. Should i get a better powerbrick? I live in Finland so I think the stock one should be okay here?
> I have 2 dead /stuck pixels on my monitor but they dont bother me at all. Im glad I bought the monitor


Nobody is really sure yet if overclocking the HZ will damage the panel. I have mine at 80hz and leave it there 24/7. If anything happens this thread will be the first to know.
Im hoping for many good years with this monitor I think im in love.


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Nobody is really sure yet if overclocking the HZ will damage the panel. I have mine at 80hz and leave it there 24/7. If anything happens this thread will be the first to know.
> Im hoping for many good years with this monitor I think im in love.


You should make it 84Hz for better playback of 24p videos


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xdemi*
> 
> You should make it 84Hz for better playback of 24p videos


I think I have to change up my timings for that I tried for 85hz and got a black screen, with my current timings.
I have my 50" lcd hooked up to the pc though so I dont watch on the monitor.


----------



## bjgrenke

Sent a message to bigclothcraft to confirm if he will check for deal pixels and back light bleed, and he said that if I buy the regular version with no perfect pixel he will only check for backlight issues, and if I bought perfect pixel he would check both. He replied in like 15 mins too









So now I'm thinking of getting a perfect pixel from Green-Sum since he's cheaper. Gonna message him now to see if he'll check for brightness fade too.


----------



## stryker7314

So after my pcb was repaired by siberx, I found it wasn't only my led's that were busted on my monitor but also, the lg screen itself had pixels that were washed out on the right side, as if a very bright light was behind them. When I fiddled with the pcb's on the monitor and warped it just a little with my hands it would return to fully saturated normal colored pixels. Needless to say I have a bad lcd and washed out pixels and I cracked the panel from messing with it til I figured it out. It's a bad panel either way, but I'm not happy cause I will have to order another one for approx $270. If anyone knows of a way to source the panel itself for cheaper without all the leds and back parts let me know.


----------



## boostinsteve

Just got mine. What a difference this resolution makes. Got so used to 1920x1080. Nice monitor, crappy little stand. Definately going to pick up a wall mount here in the next few days to eliminate the stand.


----------



## ShadeZeRO

Ordered and got my monitor about a month ago. The 27" SE i believe. zero dead pixels, but mine won't go past 65Hz







Was really hoping for 90+ Hz. Got mine from Green-Sum.


----------



## stryker7314

I think there was a different panel on the 2C's than the 2B's right? They had different model numbers I believe but I can't find it with the amount of posts in here. Can someone tell me what it is please. I'm wondering if the panel matters between the two cause I need to order another one, I have the pcb's already. The OC panel is lm270wq1 (sd) (e3), can someone chime in on the model for 2C's please. I'm contemplating just ordering another 27" monitor and swapping the pcb's instead of ordering the panel alone cause its only about $50 more on ebay, but I need to make sure the 2c and 2d panel can handle overclock pcb's and that they are also quality panels like the oc panels.

Also, if anyone knows a cheap way to source the panel itself without all the pcb's and backlighting/frame/films for cheap let me know.

As of now I either order a lm270wq1 for 300 on ebay or order another Korean 27" IPS ($340) to do the pcb swap. Let me know if you have any other suggestions on what I could do. There may be a cheaper way to figure this out.


----------



## Tulion

Debating buying one!


----------



## gsv883

If memory serves, only the 2b models of the Catleap can be overclocked. all other models don't.


----------



## Ross211

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brzyski75*
> 
> @ Samurai - I used dcsamsungmall. I live in Chicago. Ordered last Tuesday at 8pm cst. Received on Friday at noon. No dead pixels. I did however get the non-oc version.
> I got my 3M stand today. $40 USD on Amazon
> http://www.amazon.com/3M-Easy-Adjust-Monitor-Stand-MS110MB/dp/B0013CD0DI
> Some dis-assembly notes:
> 1. Total time was about 30 mins.
> 2. It would have been ideal to have left the front screen protector that came on the monitor on until I finished the installation. If you can't do this, maybe consider taping something over the screen to avoid scratching it. I did in on my bed but still put a bunch of finger prints on it. No scratches though, but it would be easy to scratch I think.
> 3. I used a *1 1/2" PLASTIC putty knife* to remove the bezel. It was super easy and zero chance of marring the bezel. If you use a straight edged screw driver, you will likely mar the bezel. Go to a hardware store and get a plastic putty knife. Also, with the putty knife, you don't need to search out each clip. Once you get the first one popped you can slide it all the way around and they will all pop. They are 99 cents. Don't be lazy and assume a screwdriver will be fine.
> 4. *I did not unplug the wired connections inside*. I thought about it for a minute but they look pretty fragile. You can get the stand out easily without unplugging anything. If you go this route, you might need someone to help hold up the panel. Again, I really would advise unplugging the connectors inside. If the connector comes apart (who hasn't had this happen to them before?) you are screwed. There is no need to remove these to remove the stand.
> 5. Once I had the stand attached, I was surprised at how flimsy the connection to the stand was. I was expecting rock-solid but it is not a great connection. Seems like a plastic back plate. Once I got it on my desk it seems fine though.
> 3M Mount Specifics:
> 6. If you are buying the 3M mount, please be aware that it will not display in portrait mode unless the screen is tilted upwards. It won't clear the base.
> 7. The 3M stand will allow you to lower the Catleap all the way to the base of the stand. I was worried that the minimum height was going to be too high, but it is not. 3/4" probably.
> 8. The negative tilt adjustment is really bad but it will tilt down slightly. All in all a great stand. Mine ended up being pre-tensioned to the proper weight for the Catleap.
> Anyway, whoever is in charge of this club, consider revising the stand removal instructions. Someone is going to break a connector unplugging wires. No need to risk it. Also, the plastic putty knife worked really well.


Thank you so much for these recommendations. Whenever I got my Catleap open I saw one fragile ribbon cable and my first reaction was to avoid messing with it at all costs. I was able to get the back arch and original stand removed by myself without unhooking any of the fragile cables inside. Don't get me wrong, if I could have had another hand it would have been nice because holding the panel up with one hand and undoing the screws and bolts wasn't easy.

Anyways, I wanted to post up in response to brzyski75's information and suggestions - This method of removal works if you are afraid of damaging the fragile cables inside your Catleap. I wanted to confirm this and I'm not saying it is the most efficient way but it is totally doable for those scared of unhooking the cables.

I purchased an Ergotron Neoflex stand and it has worked out perfect for this display. I'd suggest adding some washers to the VESA mount holes when you apply a new stand. I actually used the washers that were inside the Catleap between the 10mm bolts for the original stand - I didn't even have to go to the hardware store









Here are some photos -

I tilted the panel up on the bottom and top to get the screws out holding the original stand and arch.









^I suggest having the monitor on the backside when taking the bezel off. This is one thing that is not mentioned in the guide to take the stand off.









^Man I need to clean the front grills on my case.


----------



## Tulion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gsv883*
> 
> If memory serves, only the 2b models of the Catleap can be overclocked. all other models don't.


/shrug oh well, buying it anyway - guess I'll be looking at one of those PCB's in a few weeks = P


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stryker7314*
> 
> I think there was a different panel on the 2C's than the 2B's right? They had different model numbers I believe but I can't find it with the amount of posts in here. Can someone tell me what it is please. I'm wondering if the panel matters between the two cause I need to order another one, I have the pcb's already. The OC panel is lm270wq1 (sd) (e3), can someone chime in on the model for 2C's please. I'm contemplating just ordering another 27" monitor and swapping the pcb's instead of ordering the panel alone cause its only about $50 more on ebay, but I need to make sure the 2c and 2d panel can handle overclock pcb's and that they are also quality panels like the oc panels.
> 
> Also, if anyone knows a cheap way to source the panel itself without all the pcb's and backlighting/frame/films for cheap let me know.
> 
> As of now I either order a lm270wq1 for 300 on ebay or order another Korean 27" IPS ($340) to do the pcb swap. Let me know if you have any other suggestions on what I could do. There may be a cheaper way to figure this out.


Have you read the OP? I only ask since I did a complete swap like you are suggesting and it's posted there. Sigh.

AWESOME - the moderators deleted that bit from the OP! So, yes you can swap OC PCBs with any of these versions and it will work. I had great pictures and everything - gotta love censorship.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Have you read the OP? I only ask since I did a complete swap like you are suggesting and it's posted there. Sigh.
> 
> AWESOME - the moderators deleted that bit from the OP! So, yes you can swap OC PCBs with any of these versions and it will work. I had great pictures and everything - gotta love censorship.


No it's cool. I think it's WW2 Concentration Camp Re-Enactment month starting the 1st of May. They're just getting into the spirit.


----------



## Dental Decks

Well I guess online forums are not recession proof either.


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Have you read the OP? I only ask since I did a complete swap like you are suggesting and it's posted there. Sigh.
> 
> AWESOME - the moderators deleted that bit from the OP! So, yes you can swap OC PCBs with any of these versions and it will work. I had great pictures and everything - gotta love censorship.


Why would the moderators delete that information? I don't get it?!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KazeyMe*
> 
> I did order it on the 23rd, did chit chat i little with the seller,and he did pack it up on the 26th. Arrived in Germany on the 29th,and this morning at a pick-up location near where i do live.
> 60€ for import regulations did come on top. (I did know about it..)
> 
> Any question,feel free to ask. After a little bit of testing,I can give you some inside view. x
> 
> Kacey.


Hi

What did you put for these two questions ?

1) May I mark item as gift?

2) How much price I put on invoice?
In your country, custom inspection is very strict.
So, I recommend to put accurate price on invoice.


----------



## Kosta88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Hi
> What did you put for these two questions ?
> 
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> 
> In your country, custom inspection is very strict.
> 
> So, I recommend to put accurate price on invoice.


1) Yes.
2) $50.

Limit in Austria so that it just passes customs is €45.


----------



## Niko-Time

I wouldn't do that if it's going to Germany. I'd do the truth, so No and the price you paid (although you could remove the postage fees).


----------



## Qiko

I swore there was a section on the OP about the status of the PCB 2B boards? Did something happen?


----------



## Kosta88

Austria is not Germany, but what's the deal?


----------



## rakunSA

Ordered the panel on Sunday and it's already in Houston today! It doesn't say out for delivery yet though :/ So I'm probably looking at tomorrow. Hopefully it works out!


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> Ordered the panel on Sunday and it's already in Houston today! It doesn't say out for delivery yet though :/ So I'm probably looking at tomorrow. Hopefully it works out!


Who did you order from?


----------



## KazeyMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Hi
> What did you put for these two questions ?
> 
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> 
> In your country, custom inspection is very strict.
> 
> So, I recommend to put accurate price on invoice.


Yeah,as i pm*ed you.

Did not mark it as a gift and i did put the accurate price on the invoice.

If you want to take the chance,go with gift... i didn*t,so i did bite the sour apple and paid the extra import sales tax.

KC


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Have you read the OP? I only ask since I did a complete swap like you are suggesting and it's posted there. Sigh.
> 
> AWESOME - the moderators deleted that bit from the OP! So, yes you can swap OC PCBs with any of these versions and it will work. I had great pictures and everything - gotta love censorship.


That is pretty messed up.


----------



## Mr Pixel

Anyone know if using an active displayport -> dual link dvi converter still allows for overclocking?


----------



## rakunSA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Who did you order from?


samsung_korea. How do you know if you get charged for importing fees?


----------



## bigmac11

As far as I know in the USA we don't get charged. At least I didn't


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Free trade with S. Korea so Americans will not see any fees or taxes (both of my monitors were marked as $30 - and you could clearly see they were worth more than that.)


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Right guys to clear things up, the reason the PCB updates were removed was due to scribby needing to join our artisan program in order to advertise (which includes providing updates) the PCBs on OCN. It is up to him now if he wishes to join or not.


----------



## nicolasl46

^ there goes another thread







OCN


----------



## PearlJammzz

What if he doesn't end up selling them but someone else does and he just lets us know when the manufacturer has them done/provides contact to purchase them? I fully understand there has to be rules in place and people just can't move in and use the boards to advertise and as a front-end to their business but this is hardly like that ya?

Surely this isn't any different than posting a deal in the deals forum right?

Between this and the other thread shut down it appears OCN doesn't want us to have 120hz displays!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Right guys to clear things up, the reason the PCB updates were removed was due to scribby needing to join our artisan program in order to advertise (which includes providing updates) the PCBs on OCN. It is up to him now if he wishes to join or not.


I have asked the proper person to clear me to join the artisan program as is required under the rules sent to me by Bloodstains (thank you). I have yet to hear back. Once I am cleared to be an artisan member - I hope Bloodstains will reinstate the deleted PCB update post - and I will then post updates as well. Until then it is a little dark - sorry.


----------



## eternal7trance

I just wish I had a working PCB period.


----------



## nicolasl46

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have asked the proper person to clear me to join the artisan program as is required under the rules sent to me by Bloodstains (thank you). I have yet to hear back. Once I am cleared to be an artisan member - I hope Bloodstains will reinstate the deleted PCB update post - and I will then post updates as well. Until then it is a little dark - sorry.


Rep+ Scribby for handling matters as a gentleman







lets hope everything works out. I'm holding up in getting one of these until we get word that it is possible to get the PCBs.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Right guys to clear things up, the reason the PCB updates were removed was due to scribby needing to join our artisan program in order to advertise (which includes providing updates) the PCBs on OCN. It is up to him now if he wishes to join or not.
> 
> 
> 
> I have asked the proper person to clear me to join the artisan program as is required under the rules sent to me by Bloodstains (thank you). I have yet to hear back. Once I am cleared to be an artisan member - I hope Bloodstains will reinstate the deleted PCB update post - and I will then post updates as well. Until then it is a little dark - sorry.
Click to expand...

Reinstating will not be a problem (no content is ever truely deleted from OCN), let me know when you get your badge and I will get the content back up ASAP.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have asked the proper person to clear me to join the artisan program as is required under the rules sent to me by Bloodstains (thank you). I have yet to hear back. Once I am cleared to be an artisan member - I hope Bloodstains will reinstate the deleted PCB update post - and I will then post updates as well. Until then it is a little dark - sorry.


Thanks again Scribby! Hopefully this will get settled!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Right guys to clear things up, the reason the PCB updates were removed was due to scribby needing to join our artisan program in order to advertise (which includes providing updates) the PCBs on OCN. It is up to him now if he wishes to join or not.
> 
> 
> 
> I have asked the proper person to clear me to join the artisan program as is required under the rules sent to me by Bloodstains (thank you). I have yet to hear back. Once I am cleared to be an artisan member - I hope Bloodstains will reinstate the deleted PCB update post - and I will then post updates as well. Until then it is a little dark - sorry.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Reinstating will not be a problem (no content is ever truely deleted from OCN), let me know when you get your badge and I will get the content back up ASAP.
Click to expand...

Good to know - I will PM you once I hear back from Chipp.


----------



## rakunSA

It's insane how quick the monitors get over here from Korea. Less than 48 hrs after I order and it'll be here!







Already on the truck for delivery!


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> It's insane how quick the monitors get over here from Korea. Less than 48 hrs after I order and it'll be here!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Already on the truck for delivery!


Wish mine was..its still in Korea


----------



## ThaSpacePope

I'm now getting the "vertical lines" problem when I turn on my monitor occasionally. Turning the monitor back off then on or reseating the dvi cable on the monitor fixes it every time. I've also tried lowering the refresh from 67hz back to 60hz. I'm not sure if its related to my new 10' dual dvi cable or not, or the driver or whatever, but here is the cable i'm using:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001PFQAI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Both newegg and amazon have nothing but 100% 5 star reviews so i'm unsure.

I wish I could go back to testing the 6' cable that came with it but its too short









I searched this thread of the issue and several other people have/had this problem but I couldn't find a resolution. I hope my monitor is not already on its last legs!


----------



## ewitte

Unsure at this resolution. I've seen issues with longer cable lengths. Its usually something strange. For instance my Sony Bravia TV is connected in another room using an hdmi to cat6 adapter and 35ft cat6. It ran fine for 2 years now it thinks it is not hdcp compliant so it no longer works as a tv in media center! Also nearly every Lenovo we have out has issues with almost anything over 6ft for usb.

EDIT: BTW I'm using a 6ft cable from monoprice that was sitting in a drawer. When I organized my desk over the weekend (preparing for new monitor) I switched it out for easy monitor changing.


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> I'm now getting the "vertical lines" problem when I turn on my monitor occasionally. Turning the monitor back off then on or reseating the dvi cable on the monitor fixes it every time.


Both myself and my gf (we each have one of these) have seen this occasionally; a monitor power cycle or reboot seems to fix it pretty much every time. I'm guessing it's just some kind of a transient sync issue that occurs periodically; better cables or less overclocking on 2Cs may reduce its prevalance, but I don't think it's harmful or indicative of impending failure in general.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> samsung_korea. How do you know if you get charged for importing fees?


I've ordered 4 monitors from him, three Catleaps and one Achieva, and all of them arrived with no dead pixels and no import fees on any of them (and I'm in Austin).


----------



## Kosta88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I've ordered 4 monitors from him, three Catleaps and one Achieva, and all of them arrived with no dead pixels and no import fees on any of them (and I'm in Austin).


There are no import fees to USA!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/South_Korea%E2%80%93United_States_Free_Trade_Agreement


----------



## imaputz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> I've ordered 4 monitors from him, three Catleaps and one Achieva, and all of them arrived with no dead pixels and no import fees on any of them (and I'm in Austin).


Which one do you like more between the 2 brands?


----------



## thedymo

i've done a fair bit of research but i'm not finding the right information. I've got a 2C board, and I want to OC my refresh rate a bit. I was following the guide (nvidia) on the OP and I was following it exactly, even so much as to the sync width and total pixel lists in the create a custom resolution box.

Am I correct in assuming that these values are based upon his ~100hz refresh rate? Should I be doing something different for a ~65 refresh rate? I have no idea how to OC my monitor, so any insight would be appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## rakunSA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedymo*
> 
> i've done a fair bit of research but i'm not finding the right information. I've got a 2C board, and I want to OC my refresh rate a bit. I was following the guide (nvidia) on the OP and I was following it exactly, even so much as to the sync width and total pixel lists in the create a custom resolution box.
> Am I correct in assuming that these values are based upon his ~100hz refresh rate? Should I be doing something different for a ~65 refresh rate? I have no idea how to OC my monitor, so any insight would be appreciated.
> Thanks


2C board can't OC. Or like the max is around 65hz.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *imaputz*
> 
> Which one do you like more between the 2 brands?


Well I'm biased, as I have a Catleap that I broke trying to take off that stupid POS stand. Picture/display wise they're identical, with the Achieva taking a split-second longer to wake-up from sleep than the Catleaps. If I were doing it all over, and I didn't want to OC, there's no way I'd buy a Catleap, but it's based on that crappy stand that covers the VESA holes alone.


----------



## thedymo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> 2C board can't OC. Or like the max is around 65hz.


I know it only goes to 65hz, I also mentioned that in my post.


----------



## michaelcku

I was wondering, why hasn't anyone purchased a pallet full and distribute in the US? I mean how many people would be interested? Just wondering. PM me. I'll try to arrange a group buy. I mean if i can find 50 people that is interested, I would help front the money.


----------



## rakunSA

Look what got delivered today:

I bought it on Sunday. Not even 48 hrs later

















2D model though :/ 66hz is the max it can do









Turns out I got an AG coated one. The coating looks decent. Not like the Dell Ultrasharps in my opinion. I was surprised though. I was expecting a glossy monitor. The stand is a POS but it'll suffice for now.









Looks like I have no banding issues.









The coning is typical with my edge lit LED (precalibrated) but I'm pretty sure I can make most of it disappear. Gotta tweak it a bit more but I'm satisfied. Especially for this price.









No dead pixels! Woot


----------



## theshape

I thought all of these were glossy. Oh man i hope the multi one i ordered is glossy since there is no mention of it on the description.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> Look what got delivered today:
> I bought it on Sunday. Not even 48 hrs later
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2D model though :/ 66hz is the max it can do
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Turns out I got an AG coated one. The coating looks decent. Not like the Dell Ultrasharps in my opinion. I was surprised though. I was expecting a glossy monitor. The stand is a POS but it'll suffice for now.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like I have no banding issues.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The coning is typical with my edge lit LED (precalibrated) but I'm pretty sure I can make most of it disappear. Gotta tweak it a bit more but I'm satisfied. Especially for this price.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No dead pixels! Woot


Who'd you buy from and was it the pixel perfect or just regular?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> I thought all of these were glossy. Oh man i hope the multi one i ordered is glossy since there is no mention of it on the description.


There has been the odd report of people getting AG ones. Not too common though.


----------



## rakunSA

I bought it from samsung_korea. It didn't say pixel perfect in the title but in the picture, it said Zero Bright Pixel which I assumed was pixel perfect. Iono. It was 348 shipped though.


----------



## matthew12189

just received my today, ordered from bigclothcraft, no dead pixels, the only downside was the color seemed a bit off but the color adjustment on the first paged fixed most of it, its still slightly off but too lazy to modify it today, and also the i got a 2D monitor, the farthest i could push it was 65hz with a gtx 570, but when i did i had this ghosting after image, it was prob the video card wasnt capable to handle the higher hz, ill just leave it at 60hz until i figure out whats wrong with it.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *siberx*
> 
> Both myself and my gf (we each have one of these) have seen this occasionally; a monitor power cycle or reboot seems to fix it pretty much every time. I'm guessing it's just some kind of a transient sync issue that occurs periodically; better cables or less overclocking on 2Cs may reduce its prevalance, but I don't think it's harmful or indicative of impending failure in general.


Well going from 67hz down to 60hz doesn't seem to matter in the slightest. I may have to move my desk around to try the 6ft cable it came with again to see if I can replicate the issue on the 6ft.

I just passed my 14 days with the monitor so its not like I can return it at this point. This isn't a huge issue, but an alarming one. Power cycling the monitor has it come right back on without the vertical lines. Best case is my 10' cable from amazon goes back and worst case is theres something serious. Hoping for the former!


----------



## ewitte

Most of the stand are crap but at least the Achieva has VESA mount holes.


----------



## tobsen26

Does anyone know when there will be 120Hz Modells available? One of the Sellers mentioned that in an eMail.


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewitte*
> 
> Most of the stand are crap but at least the Achieva has VESA mount holes.


So does the Catleap.. So what?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tobsen26*
> 
> Does anyone know when there will be 120Hz Modells available? One of the Sellers mentioned that in an eMail.


Eventually... Maybe.


----------



## quakermaas

Is it normal for the shipment to be on hold ?


----------



## Crezzlin

Ive asked this before but had no reply, is it possible to overclock in eyefinity? Thanks


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> 
> 
> Is it normal for the shipment to be on hold ?


May 1st is a Korean holiday so that might cause delay.


----------



## gsv883

It's labor day in Korea, same as here in the Philippines ehehe. May 5 is National Children's day in Korea, pray that your package is out of there before then.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rakunSA*
> 
> I bought it from samsung_korea. It didn't say pixel perfect in the title but in the picture, it said Zero Bright Pixel which I assumed was pixel perfect. Iono. It was 348 shipped though.


That's weird.. No bright pixel I believe would mean no stuck pixels which are usually worse than dead pixels. And that's definitely not a pixel perfect price. I'm trying to decide between the regular one from bigclothcraft who said he'd check the monitor for backlight issues, or greensum pixel perfect who said he will check for a defects.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> That's weird.. No bright pixel I believe would mean no stuck pixels which are usually worse than dead pixels. And that's definitely not a pixel perfect price. I'm trying to decide between the regular one from bigclothcraft who said he'd check the monitor for backlight issues, or greensum pixel perfect who said he will check for a defects.


Well I got my monitor today from Bigclothcraft and it looks like he indeed checked it. The tape on the box was cut and the cable unwrapped. It came with zero dead pixels and a minor bleeding problem that I can deal with. I ordered Friday and received it today at 4:00 PM EST. Once it left Korea it was here in less than 24 hours.

Just be aware DHL left the box sitting in my driveway and it was raining a little. They could have walked 10 more feet and left it in the garage, guess that was to much work

So a thumbs up for the big guy and a thumbs down for DHL.


----------



## rakunSA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> That's weird.. No bright pixel I believe would mean no stuck pixels which are usually worse than dead pixels. And that's definitely not a pixel perfect price. I'm trying to decide between the regular one from bigclothcraft who said he'd check the monitor for backlight issues, or greensum pixel perfect who said he will check for a defects.


Yeah idk. There were only a few listings that had that in the picture. And I THINK, I cant quite remember, that one the listings that said "zero bright pixel" also had pixel perfect in the title. Oh well. The monitor is perfect as far as I can tell


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Well I got my monitor today from Bigclothcraft and it looks like he indeed checked it. The tape on the box was cut and the cable unwrapped. It came with zero dead pixels and a minor bleeding problem that I can deal with. I ordered Friday and received it today at 4:00 PM EST. Once it left Korea it was here in less than 24 hours.
> Just be aware DHL left the box sitting in my driveway and it was raining a little. They could have walked 10 more feet and left it in the garage, guess that was to much work
> So a thumbs up for the big guy and a thumbs down for DHL.


I would cry if they did that to anything I bought







UPS/Canada Post/Fedex usually jam packs it inbetween my front door and the screen door







You bought the non perfect pixel version, correct?


----------



## darrenb123

Hi,

I've had my monitor for 2 weeks but all of a sudden...well I don't know how to explain it but it's as if there was a lot of static going on on the screen. I have my monitor on the original stand so I moved it a bit so it would wobble and it did it again.

I'm going to see if I can record it the next time this happens because I feel like I can't explain the issue.


----------



## mysterfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Well I got my monitor today from Bigclothcraft and it looks like he indeed checked it. The tape on the box was cut and the cable unwrapped. It came with zero dead pixels and a minor bleeding problem that I can deal with. I ordered Friday and received it today at 4:00 PM EST. Once it left Korea it was here in less than 24 hours.
> Just be aware DHL left the box sitting in my driveway and it was raining a little. They could have walked 10 more feet and left it in the garage, guess that was to much work
> So a thumbs up for the big guy and a thumbs down for DHL.


DHL has got some people with issues delivering packages for them. My monitor came with a foot sized hole through the back of the box! Luckily for me it was the back and not the front as it was left at my door and not signed for. The worst part about it is it was very clearly marked as fragile!


----------



## beanscene

Hi overclock.net

I recently purchased a Yamakasi Catleap (model number is Q270SE2C5LP1081) from ebay seller bigclothcraft. It arrived today and I was very excited to test it and see if it had any dead pixels/any other problems.
I just sold both my 6870s and i have a 7970 still coming in the mail from amazon.com, so i had no way of testing the monitor on my own PC
I live with a friend who got one of these screens a couple of weeks ago that works perfectly with his computer and 7970. I plugged my catleap into his PC and could not get it to work at all.
The red light switches to green when i turn on the PC, and the backlighting lights up, but i just get a black screen. When i unplug the screen and plug it back in, the computer even makes a beep as if it has recognised the connection, but still no picture.









I have tried two DVI cables that i know work, i have used the power brick supplied with my screen and the power brick that came with my mates catleap and still no picture.
I am using CCC 12.4 version 2012.0405.2205.37728 (not sure which drivers are helpful to list, ill list the whole lot from CCC if it will help)

I know its not a power supply or DVI cable issue so should i open her up and check for faulty wiring? I'm quite happy to do this if it comes to it, but if i can get a refund from the ebay seller that would be much nicer!
Has anyone had any experience trying to get anything back after receiving a faulty screen?

Now i just feel stupid. Bigclothcraft replied to my message today and requested that i try the screen again just to make sure i was in fact faulty, so i did. And it worked perfectly (although not through one of my dvi cables..) Happy to have a working, cheap, great screen. Sorry about the waste of time!
I would recommend bigclothcraft, very good customer service, quick replys and super fast shipping.

Thanks


----------



## Djankie

Try to check for faulty wires. As for refund, I think there is one guy mentioning that he got only 1/3 of the refund.


----------



## iamSneaky

@beanscene
Does your mate (whose PC you are testing it on) have a 2B Catleap and did he OC it?
If he does/did, then yours, being a 2C will not handle the OC, you would need to take it back down to 60/65/67Hz.

Just thought I would mention this, sometimes the most obvious reason is overlooked









*Had my Catleap for about 3 weeks now and still running like a charm








looking at buying one of these off eBay ... only $45 in AUS
13-30" LCD Monitor Stand (DESK)


----------



## quakermaas

Monitor on the go again


----------



## RobotDevil666

I just pulled the trigger on ACHIEVA 27 LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Quad HD Monitor QH270-IPSB Tempered Glass from bigclothcraft , so pumped right now








I picked this cause of Tempered Glass solely , hope i made right decision.


----------



## ewitte

Your going to like it. I would get a 2nd or 3rd but almost got killed (wife) with the first one. Its much easier to hide stuff that is inside the computer case


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beanscene*
> 
> I live with a friend who got one of these screens a couple of weeks ago that works perfectly with his computer and 7970. I plugged my catleap into his PC and could not get it to work at all.
> The red light switches to green when i turn on the PC, and the backlighting lights up, but i just get a black screen. When i unplug the screen and plug it back in, the computer even makes a beep as if it has recognised the connection, but still no picture.


A number of people have reported that the rigors of shipping caused some internal cables (typically the eDP cable from the DVI board to the panel) to come loose, resulting in symptoms like yours. If you're comfortable doing it (and there's no reason not to be, it's pretty easy with the OP guides) you can open up the monitor and reseat all the internal cabling and see if that helps.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I would cry if they did that to anything I bought
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPS/Canada Post/Fedex usually jam packs it inbetween my front door and the screen door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You bought the non perfect pixel version, correct?


Yeah it was the regular version which I requested him to check.


----------



## fl0w3n

I'm sorry but I don't want to read through the entire thread to see if this has been discussed, as I'm sure it has, but I don't see much on the first page about the tempered glass vs non.

I'm wondering which version is for me.

Do they look different? Not only picture, but aesthetically?

Can some one please direct me to images people have taken of tempered glass vs non?

Thanks


----------



## siberx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fl0w3n*
> 
> Do they look different? Not only picture, but aesthetically?


It's literally as simple as them pasting (gluing, in fact) a piece of flat glass over the entire unit, to the monitor's bezel. If you can imagine what a piece of glass looks like over a monitor then you're imagining exactly what these are. It doesn't improve the picture quality in any way (it actually adds slightly more reflections) but some people like the aesthetic or they want the extra screen protection (the reason these are manufactured).


----------



## fl0w3n

Also, in the "Perfect Pixel" models, it seems as if it's not really zero dead pixels...just less/none in the main areas?


----------



## fl0w3n

For what ever reason I can't quote you siberx.

Okay, thank you. I can imagine what the glass would look like, and that's definitely not what I want. Sounds tacky, and I hate reflections.

I'll just stick with a non-glass model then.


----------



## fl0w3n

Now that higher than 65hz is kinda out of the question with the Catleaps, is there any advantage they have over the Acievas?

I'm looking to purchase today, and I want a no speaker, no glass, single input model. I'm having trouble picking one though.


----------



## andrews2547

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aguinas*
> 
> Hi everybody, Yamakasi is coming out with another new 27" 2703 LED. It says this monitor is for gaming and it comes with tempered glass.


Yamakasi, Y U No officially sell in other countries?


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> Well I got my monitor today from Bigclothcraft and it looks like he indeed checked it. The tape on the box was cut and the cable unwrapped. It came with zero dead pixels and a minor bleeding problem that I can deal with. I ordered Friday and received it today at 4:00 PM EST. Once it left Korea it was here in less than 24 hours.
> Just be aware DHL left the box sitting in my driveway and it was raining a little. They could have walked 10 more feet and left it in the garage, guess that was to much work
> So a thumbs up for the big guy and a thumbs down for DHL.


Nice to see you finally got yours! Man what an excruciating ordeal..


----------



## eternal7trance

Getting these monitors is easy, it's getting support once it dies within the return period that's impossible.


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Getting these monitors is easy, it's getting support once it dies within the return period that's impossible.


I agree with you on the support! But in his particular case, he has had quite an ordeal getting one. Regardless, it's good that he's finally got his


----------



## bubs

i use my monitors for my 360 as well has anyone used these with a 360 and if so how is it does everything look fine

thanks


----------



## shawnoc

I just purchased a Catleap for 331 from Bigclothcraft and after purchase i had the option to buy a 3 year warranty from squaretrade. I read previously in this thread that squaretrade was not allowing this.

Was this because this option was not offered?

If i buy the warranty will it be honored on this item?

If so is it a good idea to buy a warranty for this item?

thanks


----------



## imau79

Got mine yesterday. Shipped to Italy and paid just 45,00 euro for customs. Glass, no speakers. It's completely awesome.

I'm using it with a Sandy bridge hackintosh equipped with a GeForce 9600GT.

Monitor's serial number states that is a 2D.

I removed the rubbish silver arc. Don't ever remove the sticker on the monitor: it will make you crazy removing the glue.

Also, I'm wondering how difficult could be to install speakers on Q270...


----------



## Kosta88

Remove the glue with acetone - usually not going to do anything to hard plastic. You can try on the back of the monitor or something. I cleaned my Microsoft Force Feedback 2 joystick with acetone, all the dirty that was glued onto the handle through years of use went off. Now clean as a baby's ass.


----------



## imau79

I've already removed using chante clair.

Thank you anyway.


----------



## davidko

Thinking of getting the muti-option to use with ps3, etc.

Just a couple questions:

1) Does the scaler affect lag when running over dual-dvi, or just hdmi?
2) Does it have anti-glare coating?
3) Does it have glass cover?

I tried contacting the seller, but no response yet :\ Thought maybe someone here knows how to read between the lines









Please do not link to eBay


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidko*
> 
> Thinking of getting the muti-option to use with ps3, etc
> Just a couple questions:
> 1) Does the scaler affect lag when running over dual-dvi, or just hdmi?
> 2) Does it have anti-glare coating?
> 3) Does it have glass cover?
> I tried contacting the seller, but no response yet :\ Thought maybe someone here knows how to read between the lines


1 From what I've read, both
2&3 Idk but it is not the tempered glass version at least

Some get lucky and theirs come with AG coating but it's been pretty random since I haven't seen it mentioned in any of the listings.


----------



## Kosta88

Why would AG coating be a luck?







Tastes are different.


----------



## davidko

hehe, yeah, I actually want it without









Seems like it's luck of the draw then


----------



## Evil-Jester

well looks like tax return is going to a new monitor


----------



## theshape

I got my multi today

I ordered from green sum on april 30th but technically that was may 1 in korea. From what i read that was a holiday. One day to check it since it was perfect pixel order. Shipped on the 3rd and arrived on the 4th in the afternoon by DHL. No bubble wrapping but monitor arrived good, no holes in the box or anything, it was treated with dignity. Screen looks great no dead pixels from what i can see. Colors look a bit washed out, i adjusted it with the ati control panel and now it looks better. Huge upgrade for me since I was using 1024 x 768 for the past year. My graphic card is an old ati x600 and it works via vga, I have not tested the dvi one yet. HDMI works with the playstation 3. Screen is glossy too. Speakers are a fail since they sound like laptop speakers. Unless it's an user error and they can be controlled from the menu I don't know yet since it's in Korean. I need to email the seller to send me the english manual. I'm satisfied with my purchase.


























The price went back up now too. Luckily for me I purchased when it was on sale.

Edit: I take the speaker comment back. You can adjust the volume with the controls. Sounds good enough for my small room but If you got a big room you are going to need external speakers.


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nickw*
> 
> Hey everyone I just got mine about a week ago and I'm actually looking to sell it . I'm in the Palm Beach Gardens area in Florida and would prefer a local trade. I have no problem shipping on the buyers expense with payment ahead of time. Please pm me. It is perfect no problems at all.


Not that I live in Florida, but why would you want to sell it?


----------



## bjgrenke

Gonna pull the trigger finally and get a pixel perfect from greensum







If the 120hz PCBs work out its a bonus. Not too big of a deal to me.


----------



## Kimo

How much do these monitors go for and where" a 22 inch

thanks in advance


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> How much do these monitors go for and where" a 22 inch
> thanks in advance


Just search "Yamakasi Catleap" on eBay and there's a bunch. There's no 22" model.


----------



## DASM

Hi ! Can anybody tell me what size bolts are needed to replace the stand? Thanks.


----------



## Junkboy

My future peoples, I come in need of help! Now, because I will be purchasing at least one of these puppies, I swapped out my 5870 with to 460's 1GB OC'D to 880/1760/2125 which pretty much demolishes my poor 5870. I checked online a bit, but mostly stock cards/800MHz or below cards appear in most of the old reviews out there.

Now, my question is for the community out there, I can't really go through the entire thread checking everyone's rigs, I wanted to ask if someone had a similar setup and was curious if they could ballpark me what I should expect as far as FPS in any games they own. With the OC on these cards it's roughly a 560ti stock SLI, though probably a bit weaker, so any users of those are more (even no Ti) than welcomed to comments. Thanks in advance guys







.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> I got my multi today
> I ordered from green sum on april 30th but technically that was may 1 in korea. From what i read that was a holiday. One day to check it since it was perfect pixel order. Shipped on the 3rd and arrived on the 4th in the afternoon by DHL. No bubble wrapping but monitor arrived good, no holes in the box or anything, it was treated with dignity. Screen looks great no dead pixels from what i can see. Colors look a bit washed out, i adjusted it with the ati control panel and now it looks better. Huge upgrade for me since I was using 1024 x 768 for the past year. My graphic card is an old ati x600 and it works via vga, I have not tested the dvi one yet. HDMI works with the playstation 3. Screen is glossy too. Speakers are a fail since they sound like laptop speakers. Unless it's an user error and they can be controlled from the menu I don't know yet since it's in Korean. I need to email the seller to send me the english manual. I'm satisfied with my purchase.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The price went back up now too. Luckily for me I purchased when it was on sale.
> Edit: I take the speaker comment back. You can adjust the volume with the controls. Sounds good enough for my small room but If you got a big room you are going to need external speakers.


Could you check for backlight bleeding if possible? I'm thinking about buying the multi version as well.


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Junkboy*
> 
> My future peoples, I come in need of help! Now, because I will be purchasing at least one of these puppies, I swapped out my 5870 with to 460's 1GB OC'D to 880/1760/2125 which pretty much demolishes my poor 5870. I checked online a bit, but mostly stock cards/800MHz or below cards appear in most of the old reviews out there.
> 
> Now, my question is for the community out there, I can't really go through the entire thread checking everyone's rigs, I wanted to ask if someone had a similar setup and was curious if they could ballpark me what I should expect as far as FPS in any games they own. With the OC on these cards it's roughly a 560ti stock SLI, though probably a bit weaker, so any users of those are more (even no Ti) than welcomed to comments. Thanks in advance guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I've got SLI 460's running about 820/1640/1870 and I get ~40s in BF3, with High/Ultra settings and the AA and other things turned down (damn 1GB limited vram...)
If you want I can look real quick to see my exact settings


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadman*
> 
> I've got SLI 460's running about 820/1640/1870 and I get ~40s in BF3, with High/Ultra settings and the AA and other things turned down (damn 1GB limited vram...)
> If you want I can look real quick to see my exact settings


This will teach me to fall asleep in my chair while watching The Wire........ Sorry for late response. NAh that rough estimate is more than fine thanks! But if you had any other games you play let's say either of the witcher games, Dead spaces, or if you got into the D3 beta how that ran. Thanks in advance, and again sorry for being a slow falling asleep bum >.>;;;;;


----------



## jigglywiggly

i didnt read a lot of the thread but
how can i get a 2b model?


----------



## Niko-Time

You can't., impossible at the moment or very very slim chance. It's a lottery.


----------



## jigglywiggly

: /
cause i won't get a 2c like ever, I need 120hz (lol need)

Is there any other monitor that is similar to the 2b model?

Also why would they discontinue the 2b... i assume a lot more people would buy it then.

can you ask any of the ebay resellers for a 2b?


----------



## Niko-Time

They won't let you. There is potential for a 120hz model which ocn are currently talking through. It looks like it is going to happen, so wait a while and keep an eye on the forums


----------



## theshape

Braveblade, I'll try and check later in the week. I am working the next 3 days and won't be home. I need to calibrate it using the guide posted here. This one has the osd menu. It was in korean but it can be switched to English. I'm in the hunt for new desktop speakers. The ones built in are too weak for my taste. I also need a new graphic card my old ati x600 I think is only dvi single link and I am using a vga adapter to connect it via vga port. The resolution is at 2560 x 1440 60hz. If I just plug the dvi cable straight from graphic card to dvi port it will not work.


----------



## AnkerEde

any news concerning 2b pcbs?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jigglywiggly*
> 
> : /
> cause i won't get a 2c like ever, I need 120hz (lol need)
> Is there any other monitor that is similar to the 2b model?
> Also why would they discontinue the 2b... i assume a lot more people would buy it then.
> can you ask any of the ebay resellers for a 2b?


Try searching google?


----------



## PipWinsAgain

My catleap came in today. There are no dead pixels that I can see. I ordered from bigclothcraft. This thread sold me on getting one and I am very happy with it. I was worried about going from 2ms delay to 6ms delay but I can not tell the difference.


----------



## Kosta88

Could anyone please check for IPS glow? This is a known thing on commercial IPS panels, all 24inchers. I have heard reports of this happening less or not at all on Dell 27, HP 27...

This is how it looks like:





Maybe it is also more happening because of AG coating, something Catleap doesn't have.

You need dark(er) room, black background, and no lights around. Look at it from corners.


----------



## davejsb

Yeah I get IPS glow on mine. Doesn't bother me though as I look at the screen straight on.


----------



## isophi

Hi everyone.

I purchased one about a week ago and it arrived yesterday. Mine is a "2C" model.

Needless to say, I was stupid enough to try to oveclock it to 80 or 90Hz. Now, I get a bunch of blue vertical lines along with black ones and the monitor keeps flashing. Once the computer has fully booted, I can still make out some icons and the cursor but everything is severely blue. It did not start off like this, it began with a huge green tint and later morphed into this state. It was working fine before overclocking, with 0 dead pixels and just appeared outrageously beautiful.

I just went out and purchased another cable and it did not solve the problem.

After overclocking I either screwed up the pins on the graphics card or something terribly wrong happened to the monitor.

Do you have any advice for me?

The first thing I did was reset my output back to 60Hz. Can overclocking actually damage the PCB?

Please let me know I'm dying over here







.

Who has a time travel machine?!?!

Edit: It is an SE model with no speakers. Only Dual DVI.


----------



## imau79

It could sound obvious but did you turn off both your pc and you monitor by unplugging the power cord for about 1 minute?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *isophi*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> I purchased one about a week ago and it arrived yesterday. Mine is a "2C" model.
> Needless to say, I was stupid enough to try to oveclock it to 80 or 90Hz. Now, I get a bunch of blue vertical lines along with black ones and the monitor keeps flashing. Once the computer has fully booted, I can still make out some icons and the cursor but everything is severely blue. It did not start off like this, it began with a huge green tint and later morphed into this state. It was working fine before overclocking, with 0 dead pixels and just appeared outrageously beautiful.
> I just went out and purchased another cable and it did not solve the problem.
> After overclocking I either screwed up the pins on the graphics card or something terribly wrong happened to the monitor.
> Do you have any advice for me?
> The first thing I did was reset my output back to 60Hz. Can overclocking actually damage the PCB?
> Please let me know I'm dying over here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Who has a time travel machine?!?!
> Edit: It is an SE model with no speakers. Only Dual DVI.


Mine did that too, have fun with the nightmare of support. I'm still waiting to return mine. I didn't overclock though


----------



## CallsignVega

Has anyone ever seen anybody set up three or more cat-leaps over 60 Hz in Eyefinity? Just curious how much of a problem it would be with the drivers to configure all of them to run at the higher refresh rate and then work together properly in Eyefinity at the higher Hz.

The reason I ask is because during setting up my triple FW900 surround with NVIDIA, it was a major PITA getting them all to work at a higher refresh rate than the EDID info would allow in Surround. I basically had to bug the driver out and work with Win 7 display settings directly and by-pass the NVIDIA control panel.


----------



## Kimo

YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270

^ I'm looking at this monitor to run with my 7850. Or should I look at something else?

Edit: Took link out


----------



## skylarr

Does anyone have pictures of the catleap with the tempered glass? wanted to see how does the bezel look etc , but can only seem to find pictures of the non tempered glass one







.

Cheers


----------



## CallsignVega

Without looking through 5 million posts, are there any pictures of the bezel removed and the thickness of the panel/back-light?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skylarr*
> 
> Does anyone have pictures of the catleap with the tempered glass? wanted to see how does the bezel look etc , but can only seem to find pictures of the non tempered glass one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Cheers


Just imagine a regular Catleap with a piece of glass glued to the bezel. That's all it is.


----------



## kevinsbane

For all the tempered glass questions...

The best way I can describe the tempered glass version is that it's like a GIANT (black) iPad. Imagine a 27" iPad, and that's what it looks like. Except that it's a little shoddier in construction than an iPad.


----------



## isophi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Mine did that too, have fun with the nightmare of support. I'm still waiting to return mine. I didn't overclock though


FYI, it was my graphics card. I took the monitor to my cousin's house and tried it out there and it worked perfectly again.

My brother's computer turns out to just really suck. He has a GT 240 gfx card and I guess the required pins failed after attempting an overclock.


----------



## skylarr

Thanks about the info about the tempered glass, so its like the shimian and imac where the glass is leveled with the rest of the frame.

will get this one then as it seems like the best choice for me.

Thanks


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skylarr*
> 
> Thanks about the info about the tempered glass, so its like the shimian and imac where the glass is leveled with the rest of the frame.
> will get this one then as it seems like the best choice for me.
> Thanks


On a catleap the glass is just placed over the existing bezel. While I think it is flush with the sides, I don't think it has the same feel/look as an iPad or something. The Shimian monitors with tempered glass do appear to be more like the iPads and such.


----------



## pitty

So what's the go with this whole deal that got stopped by the mods ?

Are people taking the discussion to another forum?

Is OCN taking over the deal ?

Where's the latest news? since the thread was closed.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pitty*
> 
> So what's the go with this whole deal that got stopped by the mods ?
> Are people taking the discussion to another forum?
> Is OCN taking over the deal ?
> Where's the latest news? since the thread was closed.


I don't think much is going to happen.
Yes.
No.
I would answer that, but they appear to be removing posts that mention other websites even if they aren't auction based or competing sites...


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pitty*
> 
> So what's the go with this whole deal that got stopped by the mods ?
> Are people taking the discussion to another forum?
> Is OCN taking over the deal ?
> Where's the latest news? since the thread was closed.


While I can't provide a useful link for you, if you Google "Q270 Catleap 2B", I think you will see something you like.


----------



## CatleapStinks

I bought one from greensum. I paid the extra 60 for a "perfect pixel" monitor. And I appear to have got perfectly nothing.

The green light flashes, and that's it.

I tried opening it and reseating the cables. Nothing. And I've gotta say, the signal ribbon cable looks very poor quality and like it's been through a trash disposal. I tried a brand new dual link dvi cable.
I installed W7 Ultimate x64 from scratch.
I installed AMD Catalyst 12.4 straight from their "detect my video card".
I have an Asus 6950 with 2x DL-DVI and 4x DP. I have tried the CatTurd in both DVI ports to the same effect. My old 1650x and 1920x monitors work fine.

When I detect displays in CCC, I get a "DUAL-LINK" flat panel display AND the same name on a CRT display. When I select the flat panel it does nothing. At least when I select the CRT it tells me it can do 2560x1440, but again, no image. It just sits there flashing that green light at me.

I should have known better and just bought the Dell displays. Luckily I just bought one of these as a trial instead of all three. If anyone has any advice I'd be glad to hear it before this thing gets thrown on the road and I drove over it with my truck about nine times. I would also be happy to post some youtube videos of Catleap vs 7.62x51.


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchLinuxFTW*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pitty*
> 
> So what's the go with this whole deal that got stopped by the mods ?
> Are people taking the discussion to another forum?
> Is OCN taking over the deal ?
> Where's the latest news? since the thread was closed.
> 
> 
> 
> While I can't provide a useful link for you, if you Google "Q270 Catleap 2B", I think you will see something you like.
Click to expand...

Cool, thanks. I liked it.

Now, who wants to buy my 66Hz-max monitor?


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Junkboy*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *shadman*
> 
> I've got SLI 460's running about 820/1640/1870 and I get ~40s in BF3, with High/Ultra settings and the AA and other things turned down (damn 1GB limited vram...)
> If you want I can look real quick to see my exact settings
> 
> 
> 
> This will teach me to fall asleep in my chair while watching The Wire........ Sorry for late response. NAh that rough estimate is more than fine thanks! But if you had any other games you play let's say either of the witcher games, Dead spaces, or if you got into the D3 beta how that ran. Thanks in advance, and again sorry for being a slow falling asleep bum >.>;;;;;
Click to expand...

Wish I could help more, but I've only got BF3 and some Steam games (Read: TF2, CSS, L4D, L4D2) installed at the moment. I was going to play D3 beta, but didn't realize that was only the one weekend...

Anyways, sorry about that. Its not like you're not going to buy the monitor and find out yourself though, am I right?
Also, before you buy it, there is talk of ~120Hz versions soon, elsewhere on the internet. Might want to google it.


----------



## CatleapStinks

OK an update. My yeeeeears old ATI HD2600XT can drive this thing at 2560x1440.

It seems I won't be running over it with the truck just yet.


----------



## CatleapStinks

And it appears that I suck. I've located the switch on my card to enable Dual Link.

Is there anything that can be done about the yellow tint? Mine has it across the bottom quarter.


----------



## quakermaas

Should be here Monday or Tuesday


----------



## halodude23

How much for the monitor?


----------



## halodude23

It's 460$ at least so it's kinda overpriced compared to the 320$ you can find on ebay....


----------



## Steven185

Anyone tested the overlockable Yamakasis with GTX 690? I realize it's a bit early to ask, but if indeed the GTX 690 can manage 120Hz with this monitors I'm seriously looking to buy them both, since the GTX 690 is the only single card in the universe (right now) to be playing anything at 120 FPS @ 2560x1440.

So what's your opinion(s)? Will we/it reach the magical 120Hz number?


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> Anyone tested the overlockable Yamakasis with GTX 690? I realize it's a bit early to ask, but if indeed the GTX 690 can manage 120Hz with this monitors I'm seriously looking to buy them both, since the GTX 690 is the only single card in the universe (right now) to be playing anything at 120 FPS @ 2560x1440.
> So what's your opinion(s)? Will we/it reach the magical 120Hz number?


It will be locked at 100 Hz max. I highly doubt you would see any difference between 100 Hz and 120 Hz on these panels anyways as the pixel response time is too slow. People that say they can see the 100 Hz to 120 Hz jump are 100 % placebo IMO.


----------



## fstop

How does a single GTX 580 manage these at 100hz? Can I OC to it without problems, or will my GPU limit it?

The games I play aren't very intensive so I'll be able to hold a stable FPS rate (D3, League of legends, CS:S).


----------



## SSJVegeta

So are these monitors much better than my Dell U2311H?

I'm talking about image quality, colour accuracy, response times, contrast ratio etc. I know the resolution is quite a bit higher.


----------



## DASM

No, "image quality, colour accuracy, response times, contrast ratio" - same, but because size and resolution Yamakasi looks amazing


----------



## Supertrucker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CatleapStinks*
> 
> I bought one from greensum. I paid the extra 60 for a "perfect pixel" monitor. And I appear to have got perfectly nothing.
> The green light flashes, and that's it.
> I tried opening it and reseating the cables. Nothing. And I've gotta say, the signal ribbon cable looks very poor quality and like it's been through a trash disposal. I tried a brand new dual link dvi cable.
> I installed W7 Ultimate x64 from scratch.
> I installed AMD Catalyst 12.4 straight from their "detect my video card".
> I have an Asus 6950 with 2x DL-DVI and 4x DP. I have tried the CatTurd in both DVI ports to the same effect. My old 1650x and 1920x monitors work fine.
> When I detect displays in CCC, I get a "DUAL-LINK" flat panel display AND the same name on a CRT display. When I select the flat panel it does nothing. At least when I select the CRT it tells me it can do 2560x1440, but again, no image. It just sits there flashing that green light at me.
> I should have known better and just bought the Dell displays. Luckily I just bought one of these as a trial instead of all three. If anyone has any advice I'd be glad to hear it before this thing gets thrown on the road and I drove over it with my truck about nine times. I would also be happy to post some youtube videos of Catleap vs 7.62x51.


The asus 6950 with 2 dvi ports and 4 display ports does NOT have two dual dvi ports, it has one dual dvi port, and only in one bios switch posiition. I have two of those in crossfire,flashed with the 6970 bios, i have both the dual link bios with the disabled display port, and the single link bios with the enabled display port. Neither of those bioses works with the catleap, and in fact, the dual link 6970 bios leaves the catleap with a flashing green light, and is seen by windows but with no image. However, using the correct (unlocked)6950 dual link bios, the monitor displays perfectly using the 1 dual link dvi port.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> It's 460$ at least so it's kinda overpriced compared to the 320$ you can find on ebay....


Depends on what you value. If you just want high resolution and no warranty and you pay any return shipping upfront, then you can buy the eBay models. The 2B's that are being reproduced are 120Hz capable, high resolution, and come with 1 year warranty w/ prepaid return shipping (shipping back to Korea is $100+).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Steven185*
> 
> Anyone tested the overlockable Yamakasis with GTX 690? I realize it's a bit early to ask, but if indeed the GTX 690 can manage 120Hz with this monitors I'm seriously looking to buy them both, since the GTX 690 is the only single card in the universe (right now) to be playing anything at 120 FPS @ 2560x1440.
> So what's your opinion(s)? Will we/it reach the magical 120Hz number?


There is such a small number of people with the 2B model and an even fewer (if any) number of people with a 690 that can say anything. However, based on SLI forcing the pixel clock to 400MHz (100Hz limit) and a 690 essentially being 680s SLI'd, I doubt it will be different.

The difference between 100 and 120 wouldn't really be noticeable.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fstop*
> 
> How does a single GTX 580 manage these at 100hz? Can I OC to it without problems, or will my GPU limit it?
> The games I play aren't very intensive so I'll be able to hold a stable FPS rate (D3, League of legends, CS:S).


If that single 580 can do 100FPS in games, then perfectly. You can OC to 100Hz on 580s, the only limit is how fast the card is because if its under 100FPS constantly, it might start to be choppy. Those games should be 100FPS+ no problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SSJVegeta*
> 
> So are these monitors much better than my Dell U2311H?
> I'm talking about image quality, colour accuracy, response times, contrast ratio etc. I know the resolution is quite a bit higher.


Well, that's a personal opinion. Automatically they're better because they're a 2560x1440 panel. If you've seen the Dell U2711 models, that would be almost identical to these (or an Apple Cinema/iMac 27" display).

These have better sRGB coverage, Adobe RGB coverage, and NTSC Colour Gamut range. However, your monitor is a CCFL backlit, so its going to be a little different. 5ms (these) vs 14ms (your's) response time. Identical contrast ratio.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm - Your panel is a LM230WF2. These use the LM270WQ1-SDA2 I believe.

Hope that helps.


----------



## fstop

^ So much good info. Thank you!

I was hesitant on paying an extra $130 for the 3b model... but looks like its what I want now.


----------



## Crizume

So I decided on purchasing one of these korean monitors but I am debating between the regular and 2B model. I am also purchasing a new "high end" video card (680/7970) in the next month but waiting on the 670 to come into the play field and hopefully even out prices more. My question is that looking at most benchmarks a single 680 or 7970 can not push over 60/70 fps at this resolution for the newest games and the max setting. (Even lower on some) I understand that you can always turn down settings to get higher fps but then that completely counteracts the point of buying a beautiful IPS panel for details at high resolutions. So what is the benefit of overclocking the 2B model? Does it still help "fluidity" even though the cards cant reach "100FPS" in certain games?

I play all games from all genres so I understand in a game like WoW I can get the benefit of 1440P and "100hz" (over/under) but in a game like battlefield 3 will overclocking the monitor help even though the video card can only put out "50-65" FPS at max settings.


----------



## emin911

Got mine couple days ago, My only complaint is that the monitor is tilted to the right. anyone have a solution for this?


----------



## CatleapStinks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supertrucker*
> 
> The asus 6950 with 2 dvi ports and 4 display ports does NOT have two dual dvi ports, it has one dual dvi port, and only in one bios switch posiition. I have two of those in crossfire,flashed with the 6970 bios, i have both the dual link bios with the disabled display port, and the single link bios with the enabled display port. Neither of those bioses works with the catleap, and in fact, the dual link 6970 bios leaves the catleap with a flashing green light, and is seen by windows but with no image. However, using the correct (unlocked)6950 dual link bios, the monitor displays perfectly using the 1 dual link dvi port.


Have you tried the catleap with a displayport -> DLDVI adapter + 6970 BIOS? I want to run 3x27" portrait.


----------



## Citra

How are these compared to the Achieva Shimians?


----------



## YiZuSc

Hi guys, very good information, but, i want to buy this monitor, but my HD 5770 (HD-577A-ZNFR) can display this Dual DVI-D ?? The ebay seller, says its compatible with DUAL DVI-D. So Can my Card at least work on default Hz and actual display good image?

Thank you in advance,


----------



## alricking

Anyone here have Yamakasi Catleap with speaker? I FINALLY TRY out my monitor speaker..but the volume is soo long , can hardly hear anything coming out of it even with max. Anyone here confirm please if you have Catleap with speaker how do you make the speaker sound loud at least "hear-able"


----------



## alricking

sorry, typo-mistake, "volume so low" not "volume so long"


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supertrucker*
> 
> The asus 6950 with 2 dvi ports and 4 display ports does NOT have two dual dvi ports, it has one dual dvi port, and only in one bios switch posiition. I have two of those in crossfire,flashed with the 6970 bios, i have both the dual link bios with the disabled display port, and the single link bios with the enabled display port. Neither of those bioses works with the catleap, and in fact, the dual link 6970 bios leaves the catleap with a flashing green light, and is seen by windows but with no image. However, using the correct (unlocked)6950 dual link bios, the monitor displays perfectly using the 1 dual link dvi port.


I am confused by your issue. I know you have Asus but I have MSI 2GB 6950 reference cards and have tried the following bioses with success with all:

Stock 6950 bios (dual dvi port is on upper port, bios position 1): Signal works
Sapphire stock 6970 bios (dual dvi port is on upper port, bios position 2): Signal works
Stock 6950 bios with unlocked shaders (dual dvi port is on upper port, bios position 2): Signal works

If I attach the catleap to the bottom DVI port I get no signal and the flashing green/red LED only. Maybe this helps someone?


----------



## hbfreekwan

Whats the difference between pcbank, yamakasi, crossover? arent they all based on the same lg display? I am going to be making a purchase within the next 48 hours and so far the pcbank perfect pixel one at 325 seems like the best deal. Any reason to buy the other brands for more money?


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hbfreekwan*
> 
> Whats the difference between pcbank, yamakasi, crossover? arent they all based on the same lg display? I am going to be making a purchase within the next 48 hours and so far the pcbank perfect pixel one at 325 seems like the best deal. Any reason to buy the other brands for more money?


Support community for this monitor is much larger which is why I went with the yamakasi, personally. Mine came with 1 dead pixel (green) but I don't even notice it anymore. The problem with these monitors is backlight uniformity brightness, and buying a perfect pixel version of the monitor won't help that any. IMHO with 3.8million pixels, getting a monitor with 5 dead ones or whatnot isn't bad at all. In the days of 1280x1024 it was definitely a different story.

This monitor is really only for gaming (at which it is pretty damn awesome) and nothing else. Text is far too small on 27" for productive work and the glare from the glass gives off a ton of eyestrain. Then there is the left to right brightness problems which plague most of these and its kind of a disaster. However load up any game in a dark environment and this monitor puts eyefinity to shame. At least the 1080p portrait eyefinity I chucked in favor of this.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> sorry, typo-mistake, "volume so low" not "volume so long"


I have the Catleap with speakers and have decent volume. Have you tried adjusting thru windows control panel? I had to adjust mine there.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Support community for this monitor is much larger which is why I went with the yamakasi, personally. Mine came with 1 dead pixel (green) but I don't even notice it anymore. The problem with these monitors is backlight uniformity brightness, and buying a perfect pixel version of the monitor won't help that any. IMHO with 3.8million pixels, getting a monitor with 5 dead ones or whatnot isn't bad at all. In the days of 1280x1024 it was definitely a different story.
> This monitor is really only for gaming (at which it is pretty damn awesome) and nothing else. Text is far too small on 27" for productive work and the glare from the glass gives off a ton of eyestrain. Then there is the left to right brightness problems which plague most of these and its kind of a disaster. However load up any game in a dark environment and this monitor puts eyefinity to shame. At least the 1080p portrait eyefinity I chucked in favor of this.


Adjust your font size. I can read good with my 50 year old eyes once I adjusted the size. Before that I had to get about 1' from the screen to read.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> Got mine couple days ago, My only complaint is that the monitor is tilted to the right. anyone have a solution for this?


Get a new stand or mount from Monoprice. Super cheap. The one included with the monitor is a POS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> How are these compared to the Achieva Shimians?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hbfreekwan*
> 
> Whats the difference between pcbank, yamakasi, crossover? arent they all based on the same lg display? I am going to be making a purchase within the next 48 hours and so far the pcbank perfect pixel one at 325 seems like the best deal. Any reason to buy the other brands for more money?


They're all the exact same panel internally. The only difference is the design on the outside, so basically whichever you like the best for looks or price. One reason to buy the Catleap is that is has a larger community for OCing, getting help here on OCN, or buying a 2B PCB if they work out.


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadman*
> 
> Wish I could help more, but I've only got BF3 and some Steam games (Read: TF2, CSS, L4D, L4D2) installed at the moment. I was going to play D3 beta, but didn't realize that was only the one weekend...
> Anyways, sorry about that. Its not like you're not going to buy the monitor and find out yourself though, am I right?
> Also, before you buy it, there is talk of ~120Hz versions soon, elsewhere on the internet. Might want to google it.


No worries man, I appreciate the info.

Also just wanted to say I got mine on order from youknowwhere, and I'm uber excited for it to get here.


----------



## Spongeworthy

What happened to the PCB updates in the OP? Are they still being sourced?


----------



## geoxile

Are there any Catleap monitors that have AG?


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Spongeworthy*
> 
> What happened to the PCB updates in the OP? Are they still being sourced?


Can't talk about it, google "Q270 Catleap 2B"
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Are there any Catleap monitors that have AG?


For a limited run some came with AG but there was no SKU or anything to differentiate them, so the people who ordered them didn't know they were getting them.

Atm seems like all the ones being sold now are glossy though, sorry to say.


----------



## hbfreekwan

took the plunge and got a yamakasi for 329 from green sum. ive got a good ivy bridge build i just made and i haven't purchased a video card yet. would an overclocked 7850 pump this monitor like it should be?


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hbfreekwan*
> 
> took the plunge and got a yamakasi for 329 from green sum. ive got a good ivy bridge build i just made and i haven't purchased a video card yet. would an overclocked 7850 pump this monitor like it should be?


Will a 7850 run tons of games high depending on settings fine? Sure

Will it run the more difficult power hungry games at max fine? (BF3,Metro,Witcher 2,ect) No, maybe med/high-ish but it won't max, max out things like Ultra in BF3.


----------



## fstop

FINALLY placed my order for a 120hz model. It's been a long wait, and I ended up pay $120 more than I originally intended to spend for a Catleap... but I'm still excited nonetheless. Here's to hoping for 100hz + IPS by the end of the week


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Heya fellas - still waiting on artisan approval and assuming that is NEVER going to happen since it has been over a week. So I am giving up trying here on OCN. NO PCB UPDATES OR INFO WILL BE POSTED HERE. I think you all have the idea of how to find that information from the previous few posts. Too bad, I used to really like this site!


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Could you check for backlight bleeding if possible? I'm thinking about buying the multi version as well.


Yup i noticed slight bleeding on the top right. Not enough to bother me, it's a small amount. Monitor still looks fantastic I love it. I went by what another member posted here that the seller would check bleeding too. I did not stress it. If you are worried I suggest you stress it. Pixels are good though.


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Anyone here have Yamakasi Catleap with speaker? I FINALLY TRY out my monitor speaker..but the volume is soo long , can hardly hear anything coming out of it even with max. Anyone here confirm please if you have Catleap with speaker how do you make the speaker sound loud at least "hear-able"


I got the multi with speakers and that's the biggest disappointment for me. The speakers are weak. You are going to have to invest in a set of desktop speakers.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Support community for this monitor is much larger which is why I went with the yamakasi, personally. Mine came with 1 dead pixel (green) but I don't even notice it anymore. The problem with these monitors is backlight uniformity brightness, and buying a perfect pixel version of the monitor won't help that any. IMHO with 3.8million pixels, getting a monitor with 5 dead ones or whatnot isn't bad at all. In the days of 1280x1024 it was definitely a different story.
> This monitor is really only for gaming (at which it is pretty damn awesome) and nothing else. Text is far too small on 27" for productive work and the glare from the glass gives off a ton of eyestrain. Then there is the left to right brightness problems which plague most of these and its kind of a disaster. However load up any game in a dark environment and this monitor puts eyefinity to shame. At least the 1080p portrait eyefinity I chucked in favor of this.


As others have states, just increase the Windows: Control Panel\Appearance and Personalization\Display\Adjust Text Size

That works wonder and no matter how fine the DPI you can increase to make everything nice, large and readable.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> Yup i noticed slight bleeding on the top right. Not enough to bother me, it's a small amount. Monitor still looks fantastic I love it. I went by what another member posted here that the seller would check bleeding too. I did not stress it. If you are worried I suggest you stress it. Pixels are good though.


thank you for checking! Could someone tell me which seller is willing to check backlight bleeding? I emailed green_sum, he/she said bleeding is normal so he/she won't check it.


----------



## quakermaas

Just received mine from Bigclothcraft.

I paid for the pixel perfect monitor and all seems good, just plugged it in and booted computer and all worked.

I told Bigclothcraft to mark it as refurbished gift €70 and only had to pay €13.90 import duty (Germany) to the delivery driver









Edit: It is a D2, and just tried a quick look at BattleField 3, coming from a 120Hz monitor I see It will take a while to get used to 60Hz and I will be first in line for a 100Hz PCB if they become available.


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Heya fellas - still waiting on artisan approval and assuming that is NEVER going to happen since it has been over a week. So I am giving up trying here on OCN. NO PCB UPDATES OR INFO WILL BE POSTED HERE. I think you all have the idea of how to find that information from the previous few posts. Too bad, I used to really like this site!


That's really too bad. They publicly seemed to want to have you join, but now they seem like Washington DC had With their gun control laws


----------



## kalston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crizume*
> 
> So I decided on purchasing one of these korean monitors but I am debating between the regular and 2B model. I am also purchasing a new "high end" video card (680/7970) in the next month but waiting on the 670 to come into the play field and hopefully even out prices more. My question is that looking at most benchmarks a single 680 or 7970 can not push over 60/70 fps at this resolution for the newest games and the max setting. (Even lower on some) I understand that you can always turn down settings to get higher fps but then that completely counteracts the point of buying a beautiful IPS panel for details at high resolutions. So what is the benefit of overclocking the 2B model? Does it still help "fluidity" even though the cards cant reach "100FPS" in certain games?
> I play all games from all genres so I understand in a game like WoW I can get the benefit of 1440P and "100hz" (over/under) but in a game like battlefield 3 will overclocking the monitor help even though the video card can only put out "50-65" FPS at max settings.


A higher refresh rate is _always_ better, even when your framerate is lowish. It is more responsive and helps reduce tearing. If you do indeed get 50-65fps in BF3, then you should be able to play without v-sync and not notice any major tearing (while if you played on a 60hz monitor with that framerate, you certainly would notice tearing and you would need to use v-sync with all its trade-offs).


----------



## Steven185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> There is such a small number of people with the 2B model and an even fewer (if any) number of people with a 690 that can say anything. However, based on SLI forcing the pixel clock to 400MHz (100Hz limit) and a 690 essentially being 680s SLI'd, I doubt it will be different.
> The difference between 100 and 120 wouldn't really be noticeable.
> .


...maybe so, but if true (if it cannot reach 120Hz) then there is no reason for me to opt for one 690 considering that two 680s are cheaper where I live (and faster).
However if I can get 20Hz more with the 690, even though not noticable in most of the occations (albeit I can think of a couple of occasions where it *may* be noticeable), I'll definately buy the GTX 690...

From what I know, though, the 690 does not work exactly like two 680s sli'd, so there's still hope, right?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Heya fellas - still waiting on artisan approval and assuming that is NEVER going to happen since it has been over a week. So I am giving up trying here on OCN. NO PCB UPDATES OR INFO WILL BE POSTED HERE. I think you all have the idea of how to find that information from the previous few posts. Too bad, I used to really like this site!


Chipp is very busy ATM I'm sure he will reply to you when he has a chance, I'm still waiting for a reply to a couple of PMs myself so worry he is not ignoring you. If you are worried he has forgot about fire off another PM.


----------



## braveblade

I'm thinking about buying a q270 multi to play 360 and PS3. I think q270 multi can display 1080p if connecting to 360/ps3. Anyone who has this unit, could you tell me how is the experience to play 360/ps3 on 270 multi? Thanks in advance!


----------



## bjgrenke

Do these monitors display a startup screen when you turn them on?


----------



## jaydubb

is paying $60 more for the perfect pixel worth it? ive read that ~5 dead pixels cant really be noticed anyways.. so to those who already have it, can you guys give me your take?


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaydubb*
> 
> is paying $60 more for the perfect pixel worth it? ive read that ~5 dead pixels cant really be noticed anyways.. so to those who already have it, can you guys give me your take?


The screen resolution is so huge I guess you might not even notice. I paid for perfect pixel but at $40 instead of $60 (Seller corrected mistake later). I got perfect pixel after checking.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Do these monitors display a startup screen when you turn them on?


Nope. At boot it shows my motherboard bios screen then win 7 loading.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> Nope. At boot it shows my motherboard bios screen then win 7 loading.


NICE. The "Asus" screen from my monitor is getting annoying


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a q270 multi to play 360 and PS3. I think q270 multi can display 1080p if connecting to 360/ps3. Anyone who has this unit, could you tell me how is the experience to play 360/ps3 on 270 multi? Thanks in advance!


Yes it displays at 1080p. I went into the menu on the ps3 to check if it was on 1080p and it detected it automatically. I only treid a few games, outrun and motorstorm apocalypse. I'm not a hard core gamer but it seems fine. My only grip with the hdmi connection is that the colors don't look as vivid as when I am using it on pc mode. Because on pc mode you can set a custom profile but on hdmi mode you are limited to the osd color controls. Not a deal breaker for me since I use it more for pc. Good to have the convenience of an hdmi port. If I get a streaming media box I can just hook that up to it. I noticed enabling DCR in the osd menu helps for movies and games.


----------



## codeRoman

Just got my Catleap today - ordered the cheapest one on ebay for $330, no speakers and presumably without glass.

Just wanted to confirm for anyone who was considering buying this for their macbook air and wasn't sure it would support the montior - it works wonderfully. However you will need to pay way too much for a mini displayport to dual-link dvi adapter. I got mine on monoprice for $70. My macbook air is the 11.6" with i5 cpu and integrated intel hd 3000.

LCD looks great, and I haven't noticed any dead pixels yet. Only thing I've had to do was download the color profiles to get rid of the slight bluish tint. I used this guide for installing the profiles on a mac:
http://www.bartneck.de/2009/09/11/install-an-icc-color-profile-on-mac-os-x/


----------



## jaydubb

No noticeable dead pixels? Coool..im just about rdy to pull the trigger on one of these. Would u say these catleap monitors r good for games? Ill be playing d3 and l4d2 mainly


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> Yes it displays at 1080p. I went into the menu on the ps3 to check if it was on 1080p and it detected it automatically. I only treid a few games, outrun and motorstorm apocalypse. I'm not a hard core gamer but it seems fine. My only grip with the hdmi connection is that the colors don't look as vivid as when I am using it on pc mode. Because on pc mode you can set a custom profile but on hdmi mode you are limited to the osd color controls. Not a deal breaker for me since I use it more for pc. Good to have the convenience of an hdmi port. If I get a streaming media box I can just hook that up to it. I noticed enabling DCR in the osd menu helps for movies and games.


Thanks for the information theshape! Appreciated! You said the color is not as vivid on hdmi than on pc, but it's still better than TN right? I'm currently using benq e2200hd. Just try to make sure the upgrade is worth it.

btw my benq e2200hd is 3 years old but I think it's still one of the best TN I have ever used.


----------



## codeRoman

There are a LOT of pixels







so it's possible I just haven't seen them yet.

Don't get to play a lot of games on the macbook air, so hard to say, but I saw someone else in this thread mention D3 looked great. I doubt I could run D3.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I'm about to order a catleap too but I cant find one with HDMI ports and more. oh well. Perfect Pixel all the way!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I'm about to order a catleap too but I cant find one with HDMI ports and more. oh well. Perfect Pixel all the way!


It's called the Catleap Q270 Multi. There's still lots on eBay, is there not?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> It's called the Catleap Q270 Multi. There's still lots on eBay, is there not?


Is 3X input lag on multi really noticeable?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Is 3X input lag on multi really noticeable?


I don't own one, but from what I've been hearing it's much more noticeable than the regular Catleap is.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

nm them I'll go with the regular perfect pixel DVI-D


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> nm them I'll go with the regular perfect pixel DVI-D


From greensum I'm assuming? Let me know how it work out







I'm trying to decide between a perfect pixel from greensum or the 120hz ones next week.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> From greensum I'm assuming? Let me know how it work out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm trying to decide between a perfect pixel from greensum or the 120hz ones next week.


Yeah from that guy. What 120Hz? I just bought it but if they have 120 Hz S-IPS I want to buy those instead! lol


----------



## latenssi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> Hi!
> I received my 2C today and assembled the thing. When I plugged in the power cord to the back of the monitor smoke came out of the back and currently the monitor is dead. Any ideas on what to do? It says on ebay that the seller takes returns but is there a way to fix this without sending it back since its quite a hastle?


So the status on this matter is they asked me to send it back. I asked Fedex how much it would cost me to send it back. It was over 700 USD. Obviously I'm not going to pay for it. I asked for the seller for their Fedex customer ID so I could send this monitor back using their contracts but I haven't heard of them since. Guess this monitor stays here and I'm gonna have to fix it myself.

I'd be happy to report the seller ID on ebay but I'm not sure if it violates some rule on these forums.

Kind of a bummer since it is so rare that this happens.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> So the status on this matter is they asked me to send it back. I asked Fedex how much it would cost me to send it back. It was over 700 USD. Obviously I'm not going to pay for it. I asked for the seller for their Fedex customer ID so I could send this monitor back using their contracts but I haven't heard of them since. Guess this monitor stays here and I'm gonna have to fix it myself.
> I'd be happy to report the seller ID on ebay but I'm not sure if it violates some rule on these forums.
> Kind of a bummer since it is so rare that this happens.


Ebay has a buyer protection plan. You report the seller to ebay and they fix it or ban the sell and some how get your money back. Plus all these CatLeaps come with a 14 day free return. Did you get the warranty at least?


----------



## latenssi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Ebay has a buyer protection plan. You report the seller to ebay and they fix it or ban the sell and some how get your money back. Plus all these CatLeaps come with a 14 day free return. Did you get the warranty at least?


It says everywhere that the buyer pays for the return. When I try to use the ebay buyer protection it says I have to send the item back. How do I exactly use that 14 day free return since Fedex needs money and I wont give it to them and the seller wont tell me his ID. I didn't get the warranty but I can still get it. I still don't see how this helps since I have to send the item back and currently it seems that it is not an option.

- EDIT -

I contacted Ebay. Lets see if they can help me.

As soon as I contacted Ebay the seller told me his Fedex customer ID. So now Im sending it back.

Or not. Returning the monitor will cost the seller twice as much as the price of the monitor so obviously I'm not sending it back. Currently waiting for the response from the seller.


----------



## bukkit

i just ordered one of these, hope there won't be any problems with it.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> So the status on this matter is they asked me to send it back. I asked Fedex how much it would cost me to send it back. It was over 700 USD. Obviously I'm not going to pay for it. I asked for the seller for their Fedex customer ID so I could send this monitor back using their contracts but I haven't heard of them since. Guess this monitor stays here and I'm gonna have to fix it myself.
> I'd be happy to report the seller ID on ebay but I'm not sure if it violates some rule on these forums.
> Kind of a bummer since it is so rare that this happens.


Uhh, $700? Mother of God.

Check USPS, they win for international shipments, always.


----------



## evangelionstar

TheJesus:

Is there any update from AMD regarding the pixel clock limitation fiasco?

It is beyond ridiculous having 2 7950s stuck at 75hz with no way of going past it nor past 82hz(330mhz) on a single card!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latenssi*
> 
> So the status on this matter is they asked me to send it back. I asked Fedex how much it would cost me to send it back. It was over 700 USD. Obviously I'm not going to pay for it. I asked for the seller for their Fedex customer ID so I could send this monitor back using their contracts but I haven't heard of them since. Guess this monitor stays here and I'm gonna have to fix it myself.
> I'd be happy to report the seller ID on ebay but I'm not sure if it violates some rule on these forums.
> Kind of a bummer since it is so rare that this happens.


Yea mine died a few days after I got it. I've spent a whole month trying to get the support guy to take it back. They say they are going to but they take forever to respond.

The monitors are great until they die and you've got a $350 brick with no support.


----------



## SmoothCriminal

I created an account to post to this thread. I ordered one of the DAVI monitors because I wanted the antiglare panel. Ebay seller cool-guys informed me (after I bought it) that they had been discontinued and offered to send me one of these. I told him I had an antiglare requirement. After a day he told me he found an antiglare panel, a yamakasi catleap q270se. I figured I was going to be disappointed, but had paypal and ebay on my side should I not get what I asked. To my surprise I did indeed get a an antiglare model of the q270se. There are no speakers and the board isn't the OC type. The brightness appears to be that of an LED backlight but I didn't verify. I don't have any backlight bleed but I do have a bit of yellowing towards the bottom of the panel. I already took it apart to mount it (wish I had known it wasnt vesa 100..) I took some pictures. I can take some pictures with a real camera if necessary.






Hope this helps those in search of an anti-glare monitor. This thread certainly helped me.

Here's his seller link [redacted] name is 'cool-guys'


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Yeah from that guy. What 120Hz? I just bought it but if they have 120 Hz S-IPS I want to buy those instead! lol


Can't talk about it. Google "Yamakasi Catleap 120hz 2B". They're conciderably more though


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So are any of these monitors VESA compatible? I remember reading they were. I want to get 3 eventually and tri stand them.


----------



## iamSneaky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So are any of these monitors VESA compatible? I remember reading they were. I want to get 3 eventually and tri stand them.


Yes I think they are the 75mm VESA mount









*Yep just measured it .. 75mm


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamSneaky*
> 
> Yes I think they are the 75mm VESA mount
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Yep just measured it .. 75mm


Do you have the perfect pixel one? Does it matter? lol So yeah 75mm and not 100mm? Can we still get a tri-stand mount for these? Or is all we need are the brackets and a stand that will support 27" monitors?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmoothCriminal*
> 
> Hope this helps those in search of an anti-glare monitor. This thread certainly helped me.
> Here's his seller link http://myworld.ebay.com/cool-guys/&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2754


Hey Smooth - please remove the ebay link - they are not allowed on OCN.

Thanks!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Hey Smooth - please remove the ebay link - they are not allowed on OCN.
> 
> Thanks!


Oh scribby..


----------



## braveblade

How bad is yamakasi's stand? Shake when typing?


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> How bad is yamakasi's stand? Shake when typing?


Doesn't shake when I type, no.


----------



## riamu1993

I just got this, opened the box, and there's a south korean power supply. How do I convert it to US voltage? What do I buy? I'm really computer illiterate, so excuse me.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riamu1993*
> 
> I just got this, opened the box, and there's a south korean power supply. How do I convert it to US voltage? What do I buy? I'm really computer illiterate, so excuse me.


Does it look like the brick in the OP? Please see the first post for cable issues. Post back if you received something different.


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riamu1993*
> 
> I just got this, opened the box, and there's a south korean power supply. How do I convert it to US voltage? What do I buy? I'm really computer illiterate, so excuse me.


there are two components to the adapter - the brick and the end that plugs into the monitor, and the wire that goes from the wall to the brick. The wire from the wall to the brick is the one you want to replace - find one with a US-ended plug - the part that goes into the power brick will be the same.

If you want pics, it should look like this:










Then it will work. The only issue is that now the power brick runs a little hot, but that's okay.

Edit: Scribby got to it first, drat!


----------



## riamu1993

no it has got two of the circular looking plugs.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riamu1993*
> 
> no it has got two of the circular looking plugs.


Please provide a pic of the brick - thanks


----------



## riamu1993

the one in the first post.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I am confused - do you have the brick in the first post and a power cable like it? Or is the brick different than the one shown in the first post?


----------



## riamu1993

one sec lemme take a pic


----------



## riamu1993

http://s883.photobucket.com/albums/ac40/geraldwalace/?action=view&current=20120508_174840.jpg


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riamu1993*
> 
> http://s883.photobucket.com/albums/ac40/geraldwalace/?action=view¤t=20120508_174840.jpg


Ok so it appears you have the standard brick. All you need is any power cable used for a PSU, monitor, etc as was posted a few up (picture). You can get them pretty much anywhere if you don't have one. If you are replacing your current monitor with this one - just scavenge that power cord, plug it in, and enjoy!


----------



## faMine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riamu1993*
> 
> http://s883.photobucket.com/albums/ac40/geraldwalace/?action=view&current=20120508_174840.jpg


That brick is fine, just use a standard power cable like you would find for powering a monitor, PC, television, or the like and use that.

I'm interested in the Catleap, what's the fail rate for pixels on these? Sorry for not reading around, I'm a bit lazy


----------



## riamu1993

hmmm my old monitor has a different one. If I were to go to bestbuy right now what would be the name of the plug i'm looking for?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faMine*
> 
> That brick is fine, just use a standard power cable like you would find for powering a monitor, PC, television, or the like and use that.
> I'm interested in the Catleap, what's the fail rate for pixels on these? Sorry for not reading around, I'm a bit lazy


I have had both of mine since Feb and haven't noticed any. I also received perfect panels (didn't pay for it, just perfect out of the gate.)

EDIT: I would also add that these have only really been in circulation in the US since February of this year.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riamu1993*
> 
> hmmm my old monitor has a different one. If I were to go to bestbuy right now what would be the name of the plug i'm looking for?


Weird your monitor has a different power cable. My advice - copy the picture from the link above to your phone (or print it out) and say "I need one of these."


----------



## riamu1993

nice found that my xbox 360 has the same plug! Luckily I got two of them.


----------



## faMine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I have had both of mine since Feb and haven't noticed any. I also received perfect panels (didn't pay for it, just perfect out of the gate.)


Currently using a standard ASUS 24" TN Panel. Would you suggest this over the Crossover? I know that they use the same or similar LG internals?

Just wondering as I am using two of these ASUS panels but I honestly don't need two monitors anymore..


----------



## riamu1993

is it normal for it to say "generic pnp monitor" in the properties? This monitor looks amazing so far!!


----------



## illli

hey scribby what happened to your updates on getting the pcb in your first post? You seemed to have removed that section? Does this mean it fell through?


----------



## Aquineas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illli*
> 
> hey scribby what happened to your updates on getting the pcb in your first post? You seemed to have removed that section? Does this mean it fell through?


He didn't remove it; OC.Net did.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *riamu1993*
> 
> no it has got two of the circular looking plugs.


lol, That is a European plug brother. I dealt with that problem when I was deployed. You can buy a power converter for 60 bucks maybe or instead take an XBOX cable and swap it out. The brick on the XBOX is the same as what you will need. European plugs are just like American except they have 2 prong for 240V while we use 2 prong 1 ground for 120V.

Euro (Metric) prongs are 2 circular prongs while American (U.S. Standard) Use 2 flat and 1 circular.

Hope this helps!


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faMine*
> 
> Currently using a standard ASUS 24" TN Panel. Would you suggest this over the Crossover? I know that they use the same or similar LG internals?
> Just wondering as I am using two of these ASUS panels but I honestly don't need two monitors anymore..


Some say crossover has a better base. I lean towards Catleap as more people purchased the Catleap, so you can get more advice on it in the case that something does go wrong.


----------



## Anthony360

ok. im torn between this and the shimian. what would be the bennefit of having this and over clocking it to 120hz. my current 24" is 60 hz and looks awesome.

so whats the benefit?


----------



## SmoothCriminal

if you play any games and get above 60fps, you aren't actually seeing the extra frames as your monitor can't refresh that fast. having your monitor refresh at say 100fps, let's you actually see the 100fps should your video card be capable.


----------



## geoxile

Question. Can the regular Catleaps (not the multi) output 1080p from a Xbox 360?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evangelionstar*
> 
> TheJesus:
> Is there any update from AMD regarding the pixel clock limitation fiasco?
> It is beyond ridiculous having 2 7950s stuck at 75hz with no way of going past it nor past 82hz(330mhz) on a single card!


Yeah, I'm dealing with their support to try and get an answer as they say it should work. If you do find the other place that has the 2B monitors, you can probably find my thread where I keep updates.


----------



## faMine

How necessary is it to replace the Catleap stand? I've read of failures, and I've been told of the risk.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *faMine*
> 
> How necessary is it to replace the Catleap stand? I've read of failures, and I've been told of the risk.


I can't imagine it could actually break just from regular use, but people have been saying it's pretty wobbly and sometimes slants to one side. Probably best to get a stand from Monoprice or something for cheap.


----------



## iamSneaky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Do you have the perfect pixel one? Does it matter? lol So yeah 75mm and not 100mm? Can we still get a tri-stand mount for these? Or is all we need are the brackets and a stand that will support 27" monitors?


Sorry for the late reply.
I got the vanila version of the catleap Q270 SE 2C(no speakers/no tempered glass). It wasn't a 'Perfect Pixel'
model but I lucked out and got a perfect monitor, no dead pixels and no backlight unevenness or bleed.
The stand did lean to the right a little but I remedied that, still ... the stand is crappy though.
The VESA mounting holes are 75mm so you can use any stand with it provided it has 75mm VESA mount
holes and of course that the stand will support 27" monitors, this goes for multi monitor stands as well.

If I were you, I'd just pull the trigger on a standard, chances are that IF you do get any dead pixels,
it will be minimal and you would hardly notice them anyway. Why pay heaps more for Perfect Pixel when
chances are it will be perfect anyway. That is just me though, is what I did and got lucky


----------



## jaydubb

How much would customs/duties cost to California?


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaydubb*
> 
> How much would customs/duties cost to California?


Been answered.......many times.

None.


----------



## illli

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aquineas*
> 
> He didn't remove it; OC.Net did.


why? that seems ******ed.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *illli*
> 
> why? that seems ******ed.


They require me to be part of the OCN artisan program, which as far as I can tell is basically me paying OCN $80 to let people know what is going on with the PCBs and then possibly sell them. I am ok with that, but only I have not heard word one back from OCN as to whether I am approved (although I got a PM within HOURS related to the OC monitor thread that was closed.) So I am waiting and to be honest not sure if I will pay the money to provide the updates to the community - and I do have updates. Sorry - not my deal - OCN's deal (which I understand if I were selling these - the update black out is to be honest a mystery to me.)

Stay tuned while I await OCN's response and whether I want to pay the cash to essentially update the community on the PCB front. Do I sound a little bitter? Maybe I am, but that could be the vodka diets talking!

As always - CHEERS!


----------



## jaydubb

fantastic! gonna buy one right now


----------



## robi-wan

Hello Guys

I have a problem with my catleap. sometimes, if i put my monitor in sleepmode (pc's still on but monitor turns eighter the screen black or off) and then wake it up, the screen goes crazy. not often but sometimes (maybe 1 out of 10 times). the pc is working fine while i cant see anything on screen, just some crazy lines and colors (sorry for my bad english, cant describe it any better) . if i turn it back to sleep mode and wake it up its all fine though. now im really worried that this will happen more often or my screen will break in the near future.

did anyone experience something like that? is it a cable or graphiccard issue? what should i do?


----------



## quakermaas

So do I have the 2D model and can it be overclocked ?

Edit: Tried it at 65Hz







, then tried it at 70Hz and was faced with a black screen, so I guess that answers my question lol



Also the box had this sticker on it ( I did order a perfect pixel from Bigclothcraft)


----------



## Junkboy

As far as the stand, without having mine get here yet I decided to get the monoprice one. As unstable as people make it out to be I'd rather spend that little extra to get a nice stand than risk it and possibly have my screen fall during a bad wobble.

Kinda reminds of those people who spend 1k on a PC build then look to save cash on a psu, makes no sense.

Sent from my SCH-I500 using Tapatalk


----------



## iamSneaky

The stand is a little wobbly but TBH if you have a very stable desk (like I do), it is fine.
By no means would it wobble so much as to tip over unless of course you are doing something
untoward on your desk LOL ... even then you'd have to be doing it pretty vigorously.


----------



## PearlJammzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> They require me to be part of the OCN artisan program, which as far as I can tell is basically me paying OCN $80 to let people know what is going on with the PCBs and then possibly sell them. I am ok with that, but only I have not heard word one back from OCN as to whether I am approved (although I got a PM within HOURS related to the OC monitor thread that was closed.) So I am waiting and to be honest not sure if I will pay the money to provide the updates to the community - and I do have updates. Sorry - not my deal - OCN's deal (which I understand if I were selling these - the update black out is to be honest a mystery to me.)
> 
> Stay tuned while I await OCN's response and whether I want to pay the cash to essentially update the community on the PCB front. Do I sound a little bitter? Maybe I am, but that could be the vodka diets talking!
> 
> As always - CHEERS!


Could always just do the updates on a different website *shrug*. Hardforum? Overclockers.com?


----------



## Sxcerino

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PearlJammzz*
> 
> Could always just do the updates on a different website *shrug*. Hardforum? Overclockers.com?


they do; it has been posted earlier


----------



## supernoman

I searched this thread but haven't found an answer...can you get 2560x1440 resolution over HDMI for the multi input version of the catleap?

Thanks.


----------



## KaRLiToS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supernoman*
> 
> I searched this thread but haven't found an answer...can you get 2560x1440 resolution over HDMI for the multi input version of the catleap?
> Thanks.


Your clearly did not search or the search engine must be bad. Both are plausible.

HDMI can only go up to 1920x1200

DVI-D Dual Link support a resolution up to 2560x1600

Display port also support up 2560x1600


----------



## Eagle1337

So has the square trade warranty actually been usable?


----------



## Niko-Time

No one I have seen who purchased the square trade warranty has had any problems which haven't been solved by the seller, but square trade confirmed that they would cover these monitors.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KaRLiToS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *supernoman*
> 
> I searched this thread but haven't found an answer...can you get 2560x1440 resolution over HDMI for the multi input version of the catleap?
> Thanks.
> 
> 
> 
> Your clearly did not search or the search engine must be bad. Both are plausible.
> 
> HDMI can only go up to 1920x1200
> 
> DVI-D Dual Link support a resolution up to 2560x1600
> 
> Display port also support up 2560x1600
Click to expand...

HDMI 1.0 can only do 1920x1080 but 1.3 can do 2560×1600


----------



## MontyAC

The HD 7970 on hdmi can max to 4096x2160. All of the 7000 series can max at that with hdmi and display port.


----------



## mysterfix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eagle1337*
> 
> So has the square trade warranty actually been usable?


Yes I have it on mine. I hope to not have to cash it in but better safe than sorry.


----------



## geoxile

Err, question about the Multi. Is the response delay noticeable in gaming? I want a monitor that can support both my PC and my 360.


----------



## emin911

Hey guys, Ive had my monitor for about a week now.

Today i went and got a longer Dual link DVI cable (10ft) and when i plugged it in and turned on the pc and a bunch of colorful lines appeared and the screen didn't show anything after that. So I tried the original DVI cable and it worked, so i went back to the 10ft one and its just blank and the green light keeps blinking. I went back to the original cable and now same issue. green light is just blinking.

1. What type of GPU do you have installed? GTX480

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? latest nvidia drivers

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? tried both new and old

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? Yes only have 1 monitor

4. Tried any of the other things listed above? I opened to monitor to find any loose connections but they are are connected

Any support will be greatly appreciated


----------



## Shiftstealth

I just purchased the q270 with speakers and started playing music and started to get double picture almost like LG's 3d looks like without glasses then i got a black middle of screen and weird color bars going vertical down the sides. Anyone else experiencing this?

EDIT: Now i've got a grid across the whole screen and it still goes out. Cable i hope =/


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> I just purchased the q270 with speakers and started playing music and started to get double picture almost like LG's 3d looks like without glasses then i got a black middle of screen and weird color bars going vertical down the sides. Anyone else experiencing this?
> EDIT: Now i've got a grid across the whole screen and it still goes out. Cable i hope =/


Good luck, if yours is dead like mine, have fun trying to get them to refund you.


----------



## Renegade05

Anyone know how to get Nvidia Surround set up with three Dual Link DVI-I ports? I have three Catleaps and I'm trying to figure out the configuration on a pair of 680s in SLI that I just ordered. I know 2 monitors must be on one card while the other is on the 2nd card. Problem is that there are two Dual Link DVI-I ports and three monitors with Dual Link DVI-I. What adapter should I be using to get the full resolution? Any input would be so helpful.


----------



## rj2

have any canadians purchased this monitor,and if so has canada customs charged any fee`s?
i presently use an lg245wp 24 inch monitor,and i am looking to jump to a 27 inch-not sure if 3 more diagonal inches gonna matter
or a 30 inch.
is it a fair statement that for gaming a person would need to go to a 3 gig 580 gtx up from the 1.5 gig i now
have.


----------



## Shiftstealth

Mine didn't go up in smoke, i think its a loose cable i think i just need to get this thing apart.


----------



## iakovl

can someone explain how i never heared of this company before?
the price is dame cheap as hell... i can sell my DELL 2709W and buy two of this with no problem... not shure is my old 4850 will be able to handle them


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iakovl*
> 
> can someone explain how i never heared of this company before?
> the price is dame cheap as hell... i can sell my DELL 2709W and buy two of this with no problem... not shure is my old 4850 will be able to handle them


The company is Korean, and only started selling to the US about February this year.


----------



## iakovl

dame me being a student... need money, now!!!
thinking im going sell my dell and get a nice new LCD... thinking of MULTI with PP (extra $$$ but Zero dead pixel)
the only down side is that my dell has any connection possible in a monitor...


----------



## Shiftstealth

What is the likelyhood of them taking it back if i opened it up and broken the LVDS cable and it isnt hooked in?

EDIT: Without telling them. It never worked 100% properly in the first place.


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Err, question about the Multi. Is the response delay noticeable in gaming? I want a monitor that can support both my PC and my 360.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Question. Can the regular Catleaps (not the multi) output 1080p from a Xbox 360?


Sorry didn't see these, I believe without the scaler that is included in the multi's it might not work, though I'm not 100% sure. From all of the posts that I've read about the input lag it is very noticeable on the multi's. You have to remember these are already "slow" when compared to fast TN panels, and add to that fact that they say the multi's add 3X the input lag then I would say you're better off with a nice 1080p 120hz screen or something. Better safe than sorry.

Please note this is pure speculation on my part since I haven't seen any of these models first hand and I'm basing my opinions on the info available to me. I will be getting my 2B hopefully by sat so I can give better info then but I don't have any other +1440p (multi) available to me to compare.


----------



## theshape

I got a multi version and I experience no lag issues. No ghosting or input lag issues. It plays ps3 games just fine at 1080p. I was playing motorstorm apocalypse which is a fast paced racing game. I haven't tried a fighting or shooting game yet. From what I read the regular one will work with xbox/ps3 but only at 720p not 1080p.

I plugged in an hdmi to dvi cable into the dvi port and when I go to ps3 display settings and set it to auto detect it defaults to 480p but it provides options up to 1080p. If I use hdmi port it auto detects 1080p by default. Dvi also does not carry the audio so you will need to use the component cable to send the audio out to your speakers.


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> What is the likelyhood of them taking it back if i opened it up and broken the LVDS cable and it isnt hooked in?
> EDIT: Without telling them. It never worked 100% properly in the first place.


Don't all the sellers have a 14 day return policy? You can send it back within your 14 days but you lose out on the shipping charges.


----------



## Chunderface

Just purchased pixel perfect, can't wait for it to arrive!

Just hope it does not get damage shipping all the way to New Zealand.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Can someone do me a favor? Can I get a picture of your import invoice from a USA shipment? I am looking for the code used. Thanks.


----------



## Qbex

Just a quick update on my 2A model - so far I've been running 96hz all the time on my old geforce ( I just got my new gtx 680 through post today so happy days) - that's max I could get from it using Nvidia control panel and custom resolution tab. I won't be messing with other method (pstrip and timings or custom drivers) as too scared to f... up my panel







Perfectly happy with 96hz , I only game on my main box and don't really need 120hz and even 96 frames is going to be challenging on one gtx 680.
Guts of mine are identical to 2B model with 2 connectors and same pcb.
Hope that helps, that screen is prob. the best value part I bought in ages, love it.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbex*
> 
> Just a quick update on my 2A model - so far I've been running 96hz all the time on my old geforce ( I just got my new gtx 680 through post today so happy days) - that's max I could get from it using Nvidia control panel and custom resolution tab. I won't be messing with other method (pstrip and timings or custom drivers) as too scared to f... up my panel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perfectly happy with 96hz , I only game on my main box and don't really need 120hz and even 96 frames is going to be challenging on one gtx 680.
> Guts of mine are identical to 2B model with 2 connectors and same pcb.
> Hope that helps, that screen is prob. the best value part I bought in ages, love it.


Ya the 680 is the only card right now tested to get to 120hz. So you are halfway there! Grow a set and OC that sucker all the way!!!!


----------



## alricking

Anyone think the gtx 670 can overclock this monitor to 120hz like the gtx 680?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Anyone think the gtx 670 can overclock this monitor to 120hz like the gtx 680?


My gut tells me yes (maybe my heart since I really want them to be able to!) Recall that the 680 can get pushed up to 135hz - with issues of course, but it got there. The 670s are not that for off looking at all the reviews. SLI remains a problem and will face the 100hz cap until driver issues are addressed. I have not seen a good 690 review of its pixel pushing power and hope to bring my OC monitor over to a buddy's house who has that sexy 690 beast this weekend to run it through its paces.


----------



## seg//fault

Anyone wanting help with monitor issues must report several things:

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
4. Tried any of the other things listed above?

The more detail we have the better we can help troubleshoot the problem.

Hey guys, I've had my Catleap for about a month now and I'm having a problem. I looked at the troubleshooting section in the OP and the only cases it talks about are either a red light, or a flashing green light. When I encounter the problem, the light is solid green.

DESCRIPTION:
Monitor is fine, but after a couple days (really varies, but lately the time inbetween has grown shorter) the screen fades to black. The light is still solid green. I turn the monitor off and back on, and everything is okay anywhere from a couple seconds to a couple minutes, and the screen fades to black again. I got a new DVI cable and the same thing happens. I thought (and still kind of think) that it might be a bad power supply. The reason I'm leaning towards it being a power supply problem is because if I unplug the AC adapter and let it sit for about a day, the monitor works fine for a day or two before the problems come back. I bought one off of ebay with the same output voltage and current (24V 5A). I'm in the US so my socket supplies 110V. The brick I bought is meant specifically for 110V input voltage. When I plug the new power supply in, it makes a shock sound and shuts off immediately, so I'm guessing the brick I bought is crud (only cost $25). My main priority is getting this thing working again, so if I need to spend $100+ or whatever on a high quality supply, that is fine with me. I understand the no-ebay-link policy, so if you know of a good power supply that will work with a Catleap, feel free to PM me.

The questions I'm to answer:

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
GTX 580 SLI

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
Latest WHQL Nvidia drivers. Problem persists after clean install.

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
I had the problem with the cable that came with the monitor, so I purchased a new Dual-Link cable and the same problem occurs.

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
Unplugged all other monitors, tried all 4 DVI ports.

Thanks to those of you who spent the time to read this wall of text


----------



## bukkit

my catleap came about 20 minutes ago and i ordered it 2 days ago, came faster than i thought it would. i underestimated how big a 27 inch monitor would be







i need a bigger desk now.


----------



## TheJesus

I need someone with a non-680 card to test a driver at 120Hz on 2A/2B models, PM me please.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seg//fault*
> 
> The more detail we have the better we can help troubleshoot the problem.
> Hey guys, I've had my Catleap for about a month now and I'm having a problem. I looked at the troubleshooting section in the OP and the only cases it talks about are either a red light, or a flashing green light. When I encounter the problem, the light is solid green.
> DESCRIPTION:
> Monitor is fine, but after a couple days (really varies, but lately the time inbetween has grown shorter) the screen fades to black. The light is still solid green. I turn the monitor off and back on, and everything is okay anywhere from a couple seconds to a couple minutes, and the screen fades to black again. I got a new DVI cable and the same thing happens. I thought (and still kind of think) that it might be a bad power supply. The reason I'm leaning towards it being a power supply problem is because if I unplug the AC adapter and let it sit for about a day, the monitor works fine for a day or two before the problems come back. I bought one off of ebay with the same output voltage and current (24V 5A). I'm in the US so my socket supplies 110V. The brick I bought is meant specifically for 110V input voltage. When I plug the new power supply in, it makes a shock sound and shuts off immediately, so I'm guessing the brick I bought is crud (only cost $25). My main priority is getting this thing working again, so if I need to spend $100+ or whatever on a high quality supply, that is fine with me. I understand the no-ebay-link policy, so if you know of a good power supply that will work with a Catleap, feel free to PM me.
> The questions I'm to answer:
> 1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
> GTX 580 SLI
> 2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
> Latest WHQL Nvidia drivers. Problem persists after clean install.
> 3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
> I had the problem with the cable that came with the monitor, so I purchased a new Dual-Link cable and the same problem occurs.
> 4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
> Unplugged all other monitors, tried all 4 DVI ports.
> Thanks to those of you who spent the time to read this wall of text


Sounds to me like a power brick issue from what you described. Do you have a voltmeter to run a quick test? With a "cool" rested brick what is the voltage coming out of it? Immediately after you get the screen issue (or as close in time as possible), what is the voltage? If you get a drop then you know it's the culprit.

A silly question, but I just gotta ask - what's your power settings like? No way your going to a dark screen saver correct (I ask since someone posted their monitor didn't work, but failed to press the ON button - complained of only getting a red light.)

Post back!


----------



## seg//fault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Sounds to me like a power brick issue from what you described. Do you have a voltmeter to run a quick test? With a "cool" rested brick what is the voltage coming out of it? Immediately after you get the screen issue (or as close in time as possible), what is the voltage? If you get a drop then you know it's the culprit.


I do have a voltmeter (somewhere), and can check the voltage like you said, not quite sure which of the 4 pins to check... Any resource to find out how to check it?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> A silly question, but I just gotta ask - what's your power settings like? No way your going to a dark screen saver correct (I ask since someone posted their monitor didn't work, but failed to press the ON button - complained of only getting a red light.)
> 
> Post back!


Hah! No, it happens even when I'm actively moving the mouse around or typing. My power settings are always on, no screensaver anyways. The "fade to black" I'm getting isn't quite even like a screensaver would be. It's sort of hard to describe, as it happens within a matter of a second, but as it's fading there's almost like a grid-like appearance as it goes to a blank screen. The "grid" so to speak is a much finer (perhaps 1 or 2 pixel-width) as compared to a typical DVI related problem, which how I'd describe it, is more of a "stripe" than a line.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I believe on the four pin it is POS NEG on each side. So top neg, bottom pos as an example. Just try left side top pos bottom neg then right side of the pins. If bad readings change it up. You won't hurt anything trying for the correct pins. I saw a pin out somewhere, but cannot find it now that it is needed of course.


----------



## seg//fault

Hmm OK. Got the multimeter out. Set it to 200V DC, since the next lowest threshold is 20V. Below is a representation of the pinout, with the "arrow" side up...

1-bigspace-2
--3-lilspc-4-

So testing the original adapter, the only combination that didn't give a reading of 0V or a shower of sparks (hehe) was connecting the leads to pins 1 and 2, as well as 3 and 4. It read 24.5 V (good enough for an idle brick). I've plugged it in, and the monitor is currently working. This is probably because I left the brick unplugged for a couple hours now. I'll wait till it shuts off and take another reading.

In the mean-time, I checked the new brick I bought off ebay. Even though it uses the SAME plug as the original brick (it slid right in the outlet on the monitor) the pins that gave the proper voltage readings was when I connected the leads with pins 1-3 and 2-4. I do not know why someone would make a power brick with the same plug but a different pinout, but that explains why the new one is shutting off as soon as I plug it in.

So, that means that the original brick could still be bad, I just need to find a "good" brick that uses the same pinout.... Man this is frustrating!

EDIT - the pinout drawing was triggering the forum's formatting.
EDIT EDIT - monitor crapped out. measured the Voltage, still 24.5V, but I wonder if it "recuperated" in the time it took to remove the plug and place the leads (about 10-15 secs). Also of note, the plug was quite warm. The brick is insanely hot as well. I am going to see what I can do about getting the proper pins into the proper slots on the new brick and trying that.


----------



## seg//fault

Scribby, bro, I figured it out! And anyone else who is having power brick problems, listen up!







I really wish we could still post eBay links because this new brick cost me just 25 bucks. So like in my above post, the pinout was offset. All I did was cut off the connector on the new brick as well as the connector on the old brick. There's two wires inside the outer rubber insulation, on both supplies. (The brick that comes with the monitor has the bare wire surrounding the the inner insulated wire, so when stripping the outer coating off, take great care!). I soldered the bare wire coming from the new brick to the bare wire coming from the OLD connector, and did the same for the inner, insulated wires. Plugged the son of a gun in, and I've been basking in IPS glory for the past 2 hours!

Of course, I'll have to keep it on for a longer time just to confirm that it's fixed, but right now the new brick is staying nice and cool!

P.S. ScribbyDaGreat - Thanks for starting and taking care of this thread. It's basically the mecca of information about these great monitors, and I know you've been catching flak from the mods lately, but keep up the awesome work! :-D


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seg//fault*
> 
> Scribby, bro, I figured it out! And anyone else who is having power brick problems, listen up!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I really wish we could still post eBay links because this new brick cost me just 25 bucks. So like in my above post, the pinout was offset. All I did was cut off the connector on the new brick as well as the connector on the old brick. There's two wires inside the outer rubber insulation, on both supplies. (The brick that comes with the monitor has the bare wire surrounding the the inner insulated wire, so when stripping the outer coating off, take great care!). I soldered the bare wire coming from the new brick to the bare wire coming from the OLD connector, and did the same for the inner, insulated wires. Plugged the son of a gun in, and I've been basking in IPS glory for the past 2 hours!
> Of course, I'll have to keep it on for a longer time just to confirm that it's fixed, but right now the new brick is staying nice and cool!
> P.S. ScribbyDaGreat - Thanks for starting and taking care of this thread. It's basically the mecca of information about these great monitors, and I know you've been catching flak from the mods lately, but keep up the awesome work! :-D


So glad to hear you made it work! That's a bit strange on the new brick though. We have had more than a few people purchase that one off of ebay (I know the one I am guessing) and it worked first time. Wonder if, at $25, the QC on the wiring missed yours so it was wired incorrectly! But alls well the ends well, right? Hopefully that is the long-term solution to your monitor ills.

Post back so we know you are still in pixel heaven!


----------



## emin911

Hey guys, Ive had my monitor for about a week now.

Today i went and got a longer Dual link DVI cable (10ft) and when i plugged it in and turned on the pc and a bunch of colorful vertical lines appeared and the screen didn't show anything after that. So I tried the original DVI cable and it worked, so i went back to the 10ft one and its just blank and the green light keeps blinking. I went back to the original cable and now same issue. green light is just blinking.

1. What type of GPU do you have installed? GTX480

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? latest nvidia drivers

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? tried both new and old

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? Yes only have 1 monitor

4. Tried any of the other things listed above? I opened to monitor to find any loose connections but they are are connected

Any support will be greatly appreciated

I think its the PCB? Is there a place i can buy a new one?

I desperately want this fixed, i CANT go back to my 1680x1050 22inch monitor.


----------



## ewitte

Its maxing DVI there is going to be some sensitivity to cable length and cable quality.


----------



## thereason8286

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> They require me to be part of the OCN artisan program, which as far as I can tell is basically me paying OCN $80 to let people know what is going on with the PCBs and then possibly sell them. I am ok with that, but only I have not heard word one back from OCN as to whether I am approved (although I got a PM within HOURS related to the OC monitor thread that was closed.) So I am waiting and to be honest not sure if I will pay the money to provide the updates to the community - and I do have updates. Sorry - not my deal - OCN's deal (which I understand if I were selling these - the update black out is to be honest a mystery to me.)
> 
> Stay tuned while I await OCN's response and whether I want to pay the cash to essentially update the community on the PCB front. Do I sound a little bitter? Maybe I am, but that could be the vodka diets talking!
> 
> As always - CHEERS!


maybe you can go to another site or update via twitter or facebook. OC.N is lame to me now. I never come here much since they closed that other thread. Heck you guys should just stop posting here. See how they like that.


----------



## deusofhearts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewitte*
> 
> Its maxing DVI there is going to be some sensitivity to cable length and cable quality.


He's also having the same issue with the original cable. Might have to hold out for Scribby's 2B PCBs. Not too much info on when (or if) they'll come out though.


----------



## emin911

I really hope the PCB's do come through, What stopping Scribby from making them?


----------



## deusofhearts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> I really hope the PCB's do come through, What stopping Scribby from making them?


Sourcing issues, schematic issues, etc.


----------



## Gunkers

Just got my Catleap with a total of 22 hours shipping from Korea to New York. Works perfectly and by god I am so satisfied with this purchase. Will upload picture momentarily. Used a 10A 135V power cord + a normal DVI-D cord from my old Asus monitor.


----------



## mybadomen

Really keep thinking about one of these Monitors but it really seems like a hassle to get them to work properly? I was going bring my monitor back and order one but i am very concerned. I like tuning mine on and knowing its going to work and look beautiful. Maby not the high res that i would like to have but are Cat leaps really a headache or is it very uncommon?

Basically what i am asking is are they plug and play with all systems? I am always switching computers. One day could be running XP the next windows 7 . 1 day on board GPU next a pair of top cards. I keep getting pulled back to this thread with interest be keep getting nervous because when i come back there is always a person having a problem with theirs.

Thanks for any help guys. Its kinda like i am waiting for you guys to talk me into it









Take Care MybadOmen


----------



## ewitte

Getting them to work wise there isn't much different between them and the other 2560x1440 monitors. That resolution requires dual link DVI and sometimes tweaking.


----------



## ropeadope

Hola, these monitors seem amazing and I haven't seen one yet in person. I really want to get one of these off-brand monitors that can do 100+hz (probably not all of them, though?)

What model should I get if I'm looking for a 23-24" IPS monitor that can do 100+hz? (120hz would be nicer







)Would consider a 27" monitor but I think 22-24" is the perfect size







- Asking for 100-120hz is a lot though, I know.

I've owned a ChiMei monitor for the past 8 years, never heard of ChiMei before or since but it's the best damn monitor i've ever had. Off-brands are the way to go!









But yeah if anyone could give me any recommendations that'd be fantasamistic. This here is about the only one I've found so far: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKAS...4756?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce6d3094 - That 8ms scares me even though it maybe shouldn't


----------



## mybadomen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewitte*
> 
> Getting them to work wise there isn't much different between them and the other 2560x1440 monitors. That resolution requires dual link DVI and sometimes tweaking.


So probably not a good solution for me? I need Vga , Dvi and Hdmi inputs do to swapping all the time. Even as we speak i have like 8 builds here right now and depending on what one i am modding depends on which is hooked to the monitor?

Really like the one i have now but its only 25" I would love to see what those high resolutions look like on a single Monitor. If the eye can even tell a difference because it looks damn good on the monitor i have now. How much better can it really look?

Really wish i could see one in real life!!

I bet i will own one eventually because i cant stay out of this thread.I keep getting drawn back in.

Going to research some more on them









Take care guys and thanks for the info.

MybadOmen


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Why not get one for your main gaming build then use your 25" for when you are modding?


----------



## seg//fault

It's me again. Monitor started shutting off again, so I cracked her open to find that a SMD capacitor (C42L) has a bulge. Probably caught a voltage spike from the old brick. Going to drop a new cap in and I'll report back.


----------



## Crezzlin

Anyone that wants to run triple Yamakasi monitors, i would use GTX680'S over 7970's Ive just changed to 680's and this has fixed all the screen tearing, but the big thing i have noticed is with the AMD cards the screens were burning my eyes out when looking at web pages etc but for some reason this isn't happening with the Nvidia cards..


----------



## emin911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> So probably not a good solution for me? I need Vga , Dvi and Hdmi inputs do to swapping all the time. Even as we speak i have like 8 builds here right now and depending on what one i am modding depends on which is hooked to the monitor?
> Really like the one i have now but its only 25" I would love to see what those high resolutions look like on a single Monitor. If the eye can even tell a difference because it looks damn good on the monitor i have now. How much better can it really look?
> Really wish i could see one in real life!!
> I bet i will own one eventually because i cant stay out of this thread.I keep getting drawn back in.
> Going to research some more on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care guys and thanks for the info.
> MybadOmen


If i were to do it all over again, I wouldnt get one until these monitors have PCB's made. I had mine for a week (broke) and now im back to my old 22in Samsung. EVERYTIME I turned on the catleap I would pray for it to work or that nothing would happen.

you get what you pay for, I would rather pay 500 and have peace of mind that these things are reliable.


----------



## Tulion

Quick question guys, just got my 27" Catleap Q270 (speakers), I haven't bought my GPU yet still kinda undecided - 3570k with Intel HD4000 integrated graphics til I get one. I plug it in (bought a new dual link DVI cable) and get the green flashing light, I'm sure its safe to assume that its just not supported.

Would it be suggested that I run over to a bestbuy and just grab a 560ti or something cheap to test to make sure my monitor is working properly? Or just assume it works fine? (would then return said 560ti or w/e).

On that note if anyone wants to through out GFX Suggestions I'm waffling between waiting for the 1GHz 7970's, the EVGA 680 FTW 4GB, some 680 with a custom PCB so I can overvolt it, some random 680, buy a 7970 now, or try to find a 670?

I'm not too worried about the price differences, just don't want to spend more if its not really advised (would plan on adding a 2nd card ~year down the road) and then replacing the cards 2-3 generations later depending on how well they hold up.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mybadomen*
> 
> So probably not a good solution for me? I need Vga , Dvi and Hdmi inputs do to swapping all the time. Even as we speak i have like 8 builds here right now and depending on what one i am modding depends on which is hooked to the monitor?
> Really like the one i have now but its only 25" I would love to see what those high resolutions look like on a single Monitor. If the eye can even tell a difference because it looks damn good on the monitor i have now. How much better can it really look?
> Really wish i could see one in real life!!
> I bet i will own one eventually because i cant stay out of this thread.I keep getting drawn back in.
> Going to research some more on them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Take care guys and thanks for the info.
> MybadOmen


Get the multi model that has HDMI/DVI/VGA and can support lower resolutions. You won't worry about the input lag since you're not so much of a gamer


----------



## Boxster123

I ordered the New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Monitor *Perfect Pixel from green-sum on Monday afternoon. I got it on Thursday afternoon. I am from Toronto, Canada. He put the monitor at $150 usd and I got charge $20 tax & $10 broker fee.

However, I am extremely happy with the purchase, I did get a pixel perfect monitor. Not even a dead pixel or stuck pixel. The extra $55 is worth it for me. Now I am waiting for the 2b model to come back and I will probably pick up another one to complete my setup. Gotta push my new GTX 670.


----------



## eternal7trance

I had to do a paypal dispute on my monitor now. The moron seller keeps delaying and telling me to do the same stuff while waiting weeks to respond back.


----------



## Shiftstealth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> I had to do a paypal dispute on my monitor now. The moron seller keeps delaying and telling me to do the same stuff while waiting weeks to respond back.


My seller bigclothcraft responded by the next day with trouble shooting which failed and is even paying for my return shipping.


----------



## Crezzlin

Has anyone else got Nvidia surround to overclock these monitors, I'm not big up on the overclocking side, all i did was overclock one monitor then reset my surround setup and the 100hz refresh rate option was still visible in settings so i used it and all looks OK, in games if i set vsync on they sit at 100fps does this mean its working on all 3 screens







) Thanks


----------



## Tea1023

Hey again.

I'm having serious problems setting up eyefinity with my 3 catleaps and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong?

I've got a sapphire 6990 (1xDVI) that came with an active and a passive DP->DVI.

right now the only way a monitor gets picked up is if connected directly to the DVI port. windows picks up that another monitor is attached (plays that familiar sound) but I cant get any response from CCC to actually detect it. I've tried 12.2 and 12.4 drivers.

oddly though, if I try with a sapphire 6970 (2xDVI and active dp->DVI) it still only picks up the primary monitor, but on a 7870 it'll pick up the 2 monitors that are on the DVI ports.

what the hell is going on? is it possible my dp adapters are broken, and the 6970 cant do 2 catleaps on DVI alone?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shiftstealth*
> 
> My seller bigclothcraft responded by the next day with trouble shooting which failed and is even paying for my return shipping.


I used dcsamsungmall, I wish I could say the same with how good it was.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tea1023*
> 
> Hey again.
> I'm having serious problems setting up eyefinity with my 3 catleaps and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong?
> I've got a sapphire 6990 (1xDVI) that came with an active and a passive DP->DVI.
> right now the only way a monitor gets picked up is if connected directly to the DVI port. windows picks up that another monitor is attached (plays that familiar sound) but I cant get any response from CCC to actually detect it. I've tried 12.2 and 12.4 drivers.
> oddly though, if I try with a sapphire 6970 (2xDVI and active dp->DVI) it still only picks up the primary monitor, but on a 7870 it'll pick up the 2 monitors that are on the DVI ports.
> what the hell is going on? is it possible my dp adapters are broken, and the 6970 cant do 2 catleaps on DVI alone?


Sent you a PM


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tea1023*
> 
> Hey again.
> I'm having serious problems setting up eyefinity with my 3 catleaps and I'm wondering what I'm doing wrong?
> I've got a sapphire 6990 (1xDVI) that came with an active and a passive DP->DVI.
> right now the only way a monitor gets picked up is if connected directly to the DVI port. windows picks up that another monitor is attached (plays that familiar sound) but I cant get any response from CCC to actually detect it. I've tried 12.2 and 12.4 drivers.
> oddly though, if I try with a sapphire 6970 (2xDVI and active dp->DVI) it still only picks up the primary monitor, but on a 7870 it'll pick up the 2 monitors that are on the DVI ports.
> what the hell is going on? is it possible my dp adapters are broken, and the *6970 cant do 2 catleaps on DVI alone?*


The underlined is not true; your DP adapters are not broken. You just have the wrong DP adapters (you need an active DP->DL-DVI Adapter).

The bolded is unfortunately true. 6000 series AMD cards only have a single DL-DVI port and are physically incapable of running 2 Catleaps at full resolution without resorting to DP->DL-DVI adapters.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *emin911*
> 
> Hey guys, Ive had my monitor for about a week now.
> Today i went and got a longer Dual link DVI cable (10ft) and when i plugged it in and turned on the pc and a bunch of colorful vertical lines appeared and the screen didn't show anything after that. So I tried the original DVI cable and it worked, so i went back to the 10ft one and its just blank and the green light keeps blinking. I went back to the original cable and now same issue. green light is just blinking.
> 1. What type of GPU do you have installed? GTX480
> 2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? latest nvidia drivers
> 3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? tried both new and old
> 4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? Yes only have 1 monitor
> 4. Tried any of the other things listed above? I opened to monitor to find any loose connections but they are are connected
> Any support will be greatly appreciated
> I think its the PCB? Is there a place i can buy a new one?
> I desperately want this fixed, i CANT go back to my 1680x1050 22inch monitor.


That sounds like the issues you get when you don't push the DVI cable onto the connector with a fair bit of force. Some of these monitor surrounds do not allow the cable to seat cleanly and deep enough to get a picture. I have seen that same result on both of mine whenever I do take downs, etc. Try pressing hard on that connector (not Hulk hard, but you get the idea) and post back.


----------



## jaydubb

just got my catleap today and it is an amazing monitor, unfortunately there are 2 dead pixels..but can someone please confirm, is a white dot a dead pixel or stuck pixel? sorry if its been asked already, but im not searching 35 pages of this thread for that answer


----------



## emin911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*


not sure what you mean.........I screw the dvi cable as far as it can turn. But ill give it another try.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Has anyone else got Nvidia surround to overclock these monitors, I'm not big up on the overclocking side, all i did was overclock one monitor then reset my surround setup and the 100hz refresh rate option was still visible in settings so i used it and all looks OK, in games if i set vsync on they sit at 100fps does this mean its working on all 3 screens
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Thanks


Yes it is working. What GPU are you doing this on? GTX 680's or your 7970's?

EDIT: I see you switched to 680's. Where you able to overclock the monitors at all in Eyefinity on your 7970's?


----------



## Crezzlin

Hi Vega, No I wasn't able to over clock in eyefinity. Only because it wasn't straight forward like the Gtx's.. It will run at 120Hz fine on the Gtx but I get a very small 4" horizontal line on the middle screen when I have web pages open. So I just tun at 100Hz.

Just wish these cards didn't take up 3 slots each otherwise I could fit s 3rd card in to push FPS.. As for the 7970's I was getting desktop freezing then Display drive stopped responding msg and Bsod. This was down to the Dp-Dvi adaptors.. as all was OK on standard monitors or Dvi use only..


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Hi Vega, No I wasn't able to over clock in eyefinity. Only because it wasn't straight forward like the Gtx's.. It will run at 120Hz fine on the Gtx but I get a very small 4" horizontal line on the middle screen when I have web pages open. So I just tun at 100Hz.
> Just wish these cards didn't take up 3 slots each otherwise I could fit s 3rd card in to push FPS.. As for the 7970's I was getting desktop freezing then Display drive stopped responding msg and Bsod. This was down to the Dp-Dvi adaptors.. as all was OK on standard monitors or Dvi use only..


Hm interesting. Which 680 are you using that takes up three slots? Have you tried the higher refresh rate in SLI? I've read that if you try over 100 Hz in SLI it will crash.

I was thinking of running a couple future 7990's with catleap eyefinity using DP>DVI adapters. Curious to know how painful it was for others. So you where getting freezing even without overclocking them? Just simply using the adapters? Which adapters did you use? I will try and test one of these out:

http://www.accellcables.com/products/DisplayPort/DP/dp330_dvid.htm

That one specifically says it has a 330 MHz pixel clock which should get a catleap up to 89 Hz.

EDIT: http://www.costcentral.com/proddetail/Accell_DISPLAY_PORT_DVI_DL_ACTIVE_ADAP_330MHZ_TECH_3D_W_MINI_DP_ADAPTER/B087B007B/11558364/

I've ordered one of those to test out for those AMD users curious about multi-display with the catleaps. Since this adapter is brand new and no one else has them (cost central says it has 999+), I hope they don't screw up and send me the regular model which also says 999+ in stock.


----------



## Crezzlin

Ok as for the AMD cards i didnt really give it a try, i did manage 80hz on a single screen but then didnt try this again as was happy with 60Hz

The Adaptors i used are StarTech, Model: MDP2DVID

From what i can tell its a problem with the 7970, i used my 6990 for a day without any problems, also i found a guy that was running 3x Hazro 30" screens with XFX 7970's he also had crashing problems but this was sorted when he got some 680's.

The Gtx 680's i got are the Palit Jetsteam 4GB, i was after 690's but the 2Gb per Gpu was going to be a problem as BF3 is hitting 2.2Gb in some maps etc.. As for running at 120Hz it will run fine, but just get that little problem,

Ok been running @ 120Hz no problems this morn


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Ok as for the AMD cards i didnt really give it a try, i did manage 80hz on a single screen but then didnt try this again as was happy with 60Hz
> The Adaptors i used are StarTech, Model: MDP2DVID
> From what i can tell its a problem with the 7970, i used my 6990 for a day without any problems, also i found a guy that was running 3x Hazro 30" screens with XFX 7970's he also had crashing problems but this was sorted when he got some 680's.
> The Gtx 680's i got are the Palit Jetsteam 4GB, i was after 690's but the 2Gb per Gpu was going to be a problem as BF3 is hitting 2.2Gb in some maps etc.. As for running at 120Hz it will run fine, but just get that little problem,
> Ok been running @ 120Hz no problems this morn


Wait, you are running 120 Hz on the catleaps with GTX 680 SLI?


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Wait, you are running 120 Hz on the catleaps with GTX 680 SLI?


Yes!







that's why I asked if it was possible..


----------



## thyroid

Been out of the loop for a bit and I'm wondering what happened to the PCBs scribby was sourcing? Any mention of them was taken off the FAQ in the OP. Thanks.


----------



## Crezzlin

OK i have been out for the last 2hrs and left the PC on running at 120Hz, When i run BF3 the centre screen has green lines now so i have reverted back to 100Hz and all is OK..

I have noticed that the windows7 screen resolution controls will let me select 120Hz but the Nvidia control panel will only go up to 100Hz..

BF3 only shows as [email protected] But the game runs at 100Hz when vsync is on, is this normal for BF3??


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> OK i have been out for the last 2hrs and left the PC on running at 120Hz, When i run BF3 the centre screen has green lines now so i have reverted back to 100Hz and all is OK..
> I have noticed that the windows7 screen resolution controls will let me select 120Hz but the Nvidia control panel will only go up to 100Hz..
> BF3 only shows as [email protected] But the game runs at 100Hz when vsync is on, is this normal for BF3??


I was going to say WOOOOO HOOOO! 120hz in SLI! You would have been the first person on the planet to SLI to 120hz. We have been trying to work with nVidia about an SLI fix for the issues we have with trying to run 120hz at these resolutions and have not gotten to the proper egg head (no offense if you are an egg head.) First response to TheJesus was simply beta drivers. Not sure if he has gotten to someone who knows what we are looking for yet.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I was going to say WOOOOO HOOOO! 120hz in SLI! You would have been the first person on the planet to SLI to 120hz. We have been trying to work with nVidia about an SLI fix for the issues we have with trying to run 120hz at these resolutions and have not gotten to the proper egg head (no offense if you are an egg head.) First response to TheJesus was simply beta drivers. Not sure if he has gotten to someone who knows what we are looking for yet.


So could it be the SLI giving me the green lines @ 120Hz or could it still be me pushing the monitors to far??

Just been ruining it at 110Hz with no problems.. YET?


----------



## MenacingTuba

How common have over-clockable catleap multi's been?


----------



## MontyAC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> How common have over-clockable catleap multi's been?


Gernerally, 2A and 2B pcb ones can overclock.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> So could it be the SLI giving me the green lines @ 120Hz or could it still be me pushing the monitors to far??
> Just been ruining it at 110Hz with no problems.. YET?


It sounds like you said only the center screen is giving the green lines at the highest refresh rates? Sounds like an individual monitor problem and not the SLI 680. Here do this, swap the connection to the GPU's for that particular model at the high refresh rate. Does the green line stick with the screen or does it move to the new output's screen?

Also, you may have found a way to bump up all of the GTX 680's RAMDAC's higher than 400 MHz. As far as I know, everyone reporting SLI crashing above 400 MHz has used a single catleap in SLI. That means one of the SLI cards has no monitors connected and when the cards talk to each other in SLI they are mis-matched. When you run three catleap's, you have two catleap's plugged into one 680 and a third plugged into the second 680 correct? This would make the 680's bump up both RAMDAC's to run all the screens at the proper frequency. So if you had a third GTX 680 and plugged the third monitor into that card the same would apply. The issue would be the 4Th card, which wouldn't have anything plugged in which might lead to the SLI crashing again.

So, you might be able to get three catleap's running at 120 Hz on GTX 680 if you have two or three 680's. This is all speculation based on your information until I can test it personally when I get everything here early this new week to confirm. Sounds like three 680's with three cat-leaps might be the sweet spot for Surround/Eyefinity. I also have that 330 MHz DP>DVI adapter inbound to test for my crazy 5x1 catleap idea/setup via AMD 7990's.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> How common have over-clockable catleap multi's been?


Probably none of them since they have a different PCB. I've never seen a report of any multi's being overclocked.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> It sounds like you said only the center screen is giving the green lines at the highest refresh rates? Sounds like an individual monitor problem and not the SLI 680. Here do this, swap the connection to the GPU's for that particular model at the high refresh rate. Does the green line stick with the screen or does it move to the new output's screen?
> Also, you may have found a way to bump up all of the GTX 680's RAMDAC's higher than 400 MHz. As far as I know, everyone reporting SLI crashing above 400 MHz has used a single catleap in SLI. That means one of the SLI cards has no monitors connected and when the cards talk to each other in SLI they are mis-matched. When you run three catleap's, you have two catleap's plugged into one 680 and a third plugged into the second 680 correct? This would make the 680's bump up both RAMDAC's to run all the screens at the proper frequency. So if you had a third GTX 680 and plugged the third monitor into that card the same would apply. The issue would be the 4Th card, which wouldn't have anything plugged in which might lead to the SLI crashing again.
> So, you might be able to get three catleap's running at 120 Hz on GTX 680 if you have two or three 680's. This is all speculation based on your information until I can test it personally when I get everything here early this new week to confirm. Sounds like three 680's with three cat-leaps might be the sweet spot for Surround/Eyefinity. I also have that 330 MHz DP>DVI adapter inbound to test for my crazy 5x1 catleap idea/setup via AMD 7990's.


Mother of God. The tri-SLI + 120Hz theorem sounds pretty solid actually. Cross-post that to you know where







I can't wait to see both of those setups... Did I mention you have too much money?


----------



## Crezzlin

looks like a race Vega







i will need to order a 3rd card tomorrow if i can find a water block that fits the Palit 4Gb models, Also i will find it hard to find a 3rd Palit card in the UK as they are all sold out from what Ive seen.... Maybe a Gainward Phantom 4Gb will do??

I will do some testing like you said tomorrow, just got home from a heavy night.. But what you say makes sense & time will tell.. lets hope your theory works


----------



## alricking

Anyone here able to get their hand on gtx 670 and able to test and get 120hz out of Catleap (overclock version) ??


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> Anyone here able to get their hand on gtx 670 and able to test and get 120hz out of Catleap (overclock version) ??


Mine arrives tomorrow.


----------



## mikailmohammed

can someone PM the sellers to where i may be able to purchase these monitors???
and has anyone gotten 1 that gives them problems i should know of recently??


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> Mine arrives tomorrow.


How did this work out for you? Im thinking of picking up and Nvidia card so I can achieve 100hz.


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> How did this work out for you? Im thinking of picking up and Nvidia card so I can achieve 100hz.


Still waiting for it to arrive. Should be an hour or so. WIll report back when I install the card and ramp up my 2b


----------



## davejsb

My 670 now arrived and installed with the 301.34 Nvidia drivers.

My Catleap 2b will happily do 120Hz using the timings given on page 1 of this thread.


----------



## Crizume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> My 670 now arrived and installed with the 301.34 Nvidia drivers.
> My Catleap 2b will happily do 120Hz using the timings given on page 1 of this thread.


Very glad to hear. Do you have a reference model or longer pcb? I will confirm as well when GB 670 arrives. (On UPS truck for delivery since 7). My catleap arrived earlier this morning.


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crizume*
> 
> Very glad to hear. Do you have a reference model or longer pcb? I will confirm as well when GB 670 arrives. (On UPS truck for delivery since 7). My catleap arrived earlier this morning.


It's a Gainward reference model.


----------



## futr_vision

I've been research brand name monitors for some time now when I ran across an article about Catleaps and other "off brand" monitors. I am really intrigued but I am wondering if I have the hardware necessary to run 2-3 of these. I am running a single SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6870 1GB with 2 DVI and 1 Displayport. I would need to get an adapter for the Displayport > DVI but other than that would this work? Also, where do you buy these? i just don't have a ton of time to go through 384 pages in this thread.


----------



## creedda

Forgive me if this is full of grammatical errors or I forget something. I'm typing this out on my phone as my ISP chose now of all times to go out.

I've been lurking in this thread for a while and finally decided to buy one of these awesome monitors. However, I seem to get a black screen on my monitor no matter what I do.

I have downloads and installed the latest drivers, (clean intallation) tried two different cables ( each gives the Same result one from mono price and one that came in the box)

The monitor appears to be recognized and I can change the resolution with displayfusion, but I have a solid green light and a black screen.

I am using a mid 2009 MacBook pro in windows mode with a mini display port to dual dvi adapter from mono price. The video card is a 9600 GT, but I have done some reading on this and I believe that the configuration is sound.

Could I have a monitor with faulty wiring? Any easy way to troubleshoot that?

Thoughts?


----------



## MontyAC

Try hooking it up with a pc with a dedicated gpu, one which is supported per the eBay listings.


----------



## davejsb

I have to say, at 100Hz it's fine, but at 120Hz the monitor squeals ever so slightly on all white pages.


----------



## alricking

is 120hz worth setting over 100hz? Can you really feel, "notice" the difference between 120hz vs 100hz?


----------



## michaelcat41

got 67 hz out of mine... hey its somthing XD


----------



## creedda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MontyAC*
> 
> Try hooking it up with a pc with a dedicated gpu, one which is supported per the eBay listings.


I'm working on getting a hold of another computer to test it on. But until then any other suggestions?

looking at the spec page for my computer it is supposed to be able to handle a external monitor up to 2560x1600 so I really don't think its my computer.


----------



## MontyAC

Are you using an active displayport adapter?


----------



## davejsb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alricking*
> 
> is 120hz worth setting over 100hz? Can you really feel, "notice" the difference between 120hz vs 100hz?


I personally don't notice, so I'm sticking at 100Hz.


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> I personally don't notice, so I'm sticking at 100Hz.


,
Same here! I can't tell over 60-120Hz on a 1440p screen maybe it don't make as big a difference like 1080p TN panels ??


----------



## Wiz33

Got my Q270 today. Have not try anything except hook it up and try it out. I was afraid that I won't be able to test it at the office since I only have a HD5770 which according to the compatibility list on ebay does not work. I'm glad to report that not only is it working. I'm running it in a 2 monitor setup with a Dell 2407 and both are working great.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

The supported and not supported GPU list is for the BIOS/POST screen only so all desktop GPUs with dual link DVI ports should be able to power these montiors AFAIK.


----------



## Crizume

I have a Gigabyte gtx 670 that arrived about and hour ago. After installing and setting everything up I can also confirm 120hz with no problem.


----------



## creedda

So I don't know what I did, but it works now.

Mid 2009 Macbook pro with a Geforce 9600 GT connected through mini displayport to dual dvi adapter from mono price works well.

Now if only I could get someone to confirm that the monitor still works with a thunderbolt computer so that I can buy the new Macbook Pro when it comes out....

My next major purchase I think.

Monitor is gorgeous. I cannot wait to start playing Games on this thing, in fact, I think I'll fire up skyrim now...


----------



## davejsb

My monitor makes a slight buzz/squeal on an all white screen at 100Hz as well as 120Hz. Hmmmm.


----------



## Niko-Time

Mine does the same buzz on stock Hz. (although mine is the PCBank). I'm going to use hot glue to solve the problem


----------



## alricking

Mine gtx 670 coming in tomorrow.. so is 120hz with gtx 670 stable...anything mess up? Also..did you follow Hyperx guide, installing the driver etc. to get to 120hz or did you went straight manual overclocking them?


----------



## Crizume

Alrick replied to your PM. My GB 670 overclocked very nicely.

Heres 120HZ overclock. Have been playing WoW, BF3, Crysis 2 and others over 5 hrs and no problems what so ever.


----------



## bjgrenke

Finally ordered last night. A pixel perfect from green-sum. Ended up getting this stand from Monoprice as well as a DVI cable.


----------



## tael

Are we still locked down to 100hz for SLI setups?
I have my 670's coming in today. Won't have a 2B monitor for a couple more weeks though.
Perfectly fine with 100hz always good to have that extra room though.

Anyone know of a stand with height adjustment so the monitor sits as close to the desk as possible? Clearance issues with my desk. (No choice of furniture atm... Military)
Might just have to take the stand off and figure out a way to get it to stay put without one.
Wall mount probably out of the question as well.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tael*
> 
> Are we still locked down to 100hz for SLI setups?
> I have my 670's coming in today. Won't have a 2B monitor for a couple more weeks though.
> Perfectly fine with 100hz though.
> Anyone know of a stand with height adjustment so the monitor sits as close to the desk as possible? Clearance issues with my desk. (No choice of furniture atm... Military)
> Might just have to take the stand off and figure out a way to get it to stay put without one.
> Wall mount probably out of the question as well.


The one that I just posted has pretty good height adjustment. Can almost lower all the way to the desk I believe.


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> The one that I just posted has pretty good height adjustment. Can almost lower all the way to the desk I believe.


Ah! Forgot to mention, Clamp ones won't work also.
Has that flimsy wood/cardboard combination covering the back of the desk. Would be perfect for a wall mount if it was actual solid wood.
Will throw up a picture when I get back to the room.(If I remember)


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> I've been research brand name monitors for some time now when I ran across an article about Catleaps and other "off brand" monitors. I am really intrigued but I am wondering if I have the hardware necessary to run 2-3 of these. I am running a single SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6870 1GB with 2 DVI and 1 Displayport. I would need to get an adapter for the Displayport > DVI but other than that would this work? Also, where do you buy these? i just don't have a ton of time to go through 384 pages in this thread.


PM replied to.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *creedda*
> 
> Forgive me if this is full of grammatical errors or I forget something. I'm typing this out on my phone as my ISP chose now of all times to go out.
> I've been lurking in this thread for a while and finally decided to buy one of these awesome monitors. However, I seem to get a black screen on my monitor no matter what I do.
> I have downloads and installed the latest drivers, (clean intallation) tried two different cables ( each gives the Same result one from mono price and one that came in the box)
> The monitor appears to be recognized and I can change the resolution with displayfusion, but I have a solid green light and a black screen.
> I am using a mid 2009 MacBook pro in windows mode with a mini display port to dual dvi adapter from mono price. The video card is a 9600 GT, but I have done some reading on this and I believe that the configuration is sound.
> Could I have a monitor with faulty wiring? Any easy way to troubleshoot that?
> Thoughts?


You could have loose wiring inside the unit itself - not unheard of. See the first page stickies under troubleshooting. I would wait until you hook up to a known good setup before opening her up though. Post back please.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> I have to say, at 100Hz it's fine, but at 120Hz the monitor squeals ever so slightly on all white pages.


That's your choke - there are pics in the OP of the issue. Most of these came without the proper TCON cover from the factory so you get one of two things happening - 1. Choke buzzes against the metal plate and/or 2. the second choke hums as well. You can either epoxy or trying covering/insulating the tops of the TCON PCB chokes from the cover. I tried the insulation method and it cured my humming fine (which in my case meant that the LOWER choke (the one on the corner of the TCON PCB) was the noisy one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davejsb*
> 
> My monitor makes a slight buzz/squeal on an all white screen at 100Hz as well as 120Hz. Hmmmm.


See above.


----------



## jylesm

1. ASus 7970 DCu2
2. Recent drivers 8.9 and tried 8.2 and clean attempt no success.
3. Cable works fine, loaded in other computer?
4. tried it by itsself.

monitor loaded on my other desktop that has a gtx 285 successfully, but no luck with my 7970, in display properties shows second display listed as dual-dvi, but does not allow me to enable it, no luck at loadup, when loading computer just with the monitor windows goes into load failure... but ya, anyone know a good driver to roll back to or any information would be loads of help thanks!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jylesm*
> 
> 1. ASus 7970 DCu2
> 2. Recent drivers 8.9 and tried 8.2 and clean attempt no success.
> 3. Cable works fine, loaded in other computer?
> 4. tried it by itsself.
> monitor loaded on my other desktop that has a gtx 285 successfully, but no luck with my 7970, in display properties shows second display listed as dual-dvi, but does not allow me to enable it, no luck at loadup, when loading computer just with the monitor windows goes into load failure... but ya, anyone know a good driver to roll back to or any information would be loads of help thanks!


You have two monitors connected to to the 7970 ?

Have you tried only connecting the Catleap to the 7970 ? (Just one monitor with the D-DVI cable)


----------



## jylesm

my gaming rig has one monitor connected to it, and that prefered monitor would be the yamakasi but thats not loading. so im using another monitor till i figure out this issue...


----------



## jylesm

Quote:
Originally Posted by jylesm

1. ASus 7970 DCu2
2. Recent drivers 8.9 and tried 8.2 and clean attempt no success.
3. Cable works fine, loaded in other computer?
4. tried it by itsself.
monitor loaded on my other desktop that has a gtx 285 successfully, but no luck with my 7970, in display properties shows second display listed as dual-dvi, but does not allow me to enable it, no luck at loadup, when loading computer just with the monitor windows goes into load failure... but ya, anyone know a good driver to roll back to or any information would be loads of help thanks!

hmm also got bsod, and system repair on startup that finishes with remove the device.... anyone have any thoughts?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Well BSOD has nothing to do with plugging in a monitor. You clearly have driver issues or some other issue.


----------



## crashnburn_in

I read the FAQs and also that we are not allowed to post Ebay links.

One of these monitors for around 450-490 USD shows Display Port as well. Which model is that?


----------



## happyxix

Did anyone else experience getting a power brick that is not rated for 110-220V? The one i just got came with a LOADUS power brick that goes from 190-220V... How do I get an replacement?


----------



## CallsignVega

Man these power bricks get hot eh? May have to fan mod it LOL.

BTW, has anyone gotten any Catleap's that have a "Star-field" effect along some of the edges? It looks like tiny (smaller than lit pixel size) different colored glowing dot's speckled on the surface and only viewable on a black background. They are also very hard to see at a normal viewing distance and you must look quite closely for them in a dark/very dim room.


----------



## jylesm

ya its odd, i plug it into the 7970, it shows up in the screen properties menu, but has a error symbol next to it and wont allow you to extend it, plugged in and running at startup i get blue screen on main monitor, to remove the new hardware so im like huh....

and it works plugged into my gtx 285.... perfectly whats the deal? any ideas?? did clean install of drivers etc....


----------



## corhen

im interested in purchasing a catleap monitor, the one thing that scares me off is the fact that if the monitor is DOA, i have to foot the bill to return it, which i have heard can be outrageously expensive.

While i haven't noticed anyone with problems in the last 20 pages, does anyone know if there have been problems with this, when someone receives a DOA monitor is screwed?

Thanks

Corhen


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corhen*
> 
> im interested in purchasing a catleap monitor, the one thing that scares me off is the fact that if the monitor is DOA, i have to foot the bill to return it, which i have heard can be outrageously expensive.
> While i haven't noticed anyone with problems in the last 20 pages, does anyone know if there have been problems with this, when someone receives a DOA monitor is screwed?
> Thanks
> Corhen


You have some level of protection from ebay. Also many of the sellers were offering 14 or 30 day replacement warranties. Just check them out. I have only read of a few (about 2-3) that were in fact DOAs. That is out of about 1000+ monitors.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyxix*
> 
> Did anyone else experience getting a power brick that is not rated for 110-220V? The one i just got came with a LOADUS power brick that goes from 190-220V... How do I get an replacement?


ebay! First I have heard of a Catleap being sent without a Welltronics brick. Just check the specs in the OP to make sure your replacement matches volt/amp.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jylesm*
> 
> ya its odd, i plug it into the 7970, it shows up in the screen properties menu, but has a error symbol next to it and wont allow you to extend it, plugged in and running at startup i get blue screen on main monitor, to remove the new hardware so im like huh....
> and it works plugged into my gtx 285.... perfectly whats the deal? any ideas?? did clean install of drivers etc....


AMDs are a pain with Catleaps. Seriously. I hear more people with issues trying to connect to AMD - barely any from nVidia folk. Not a judgement, just my experience. I wish I could help, but it seems some AMD cards are fickle. I was PMing with two guys this week both with identical cards, AMDs, with different issues. They finally got them to work. Don't know how to be honest - magic GPU dust perhaps?

All I can say is - run it on its own - no other monitor (if you can), make sure you're in the dual-dvi port (yes peeps use the wrong port all the time), use only the AMD card (if you have both in there - couldn't tell when you meant your 285), baby steps essentially. Work from the very beginning to see where it breaks.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corhen*
> 
> im interested in purchasing a catleap monitor, the one thing that scares me off is the fact that if the monitor is DOA, i have to foot the bill to return it, which i have heard can be outrageously expensive.
> While i haven't noticed anyone with problems in the last 20 pages, does anyone know if there have been problems with this, when someone receives a DOA monitor is screwed?
> Thanks
> Corhen


\

Depends on the seller I suppose. I got a DOA monitor with dcsamsungmall and he's currently making it hell to return. I'm in the middle of a paypal dispute now with him. Been a month and a week since the monitor stopped working and I emailed him originally.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Anyone have their 67hz + killed by amd catalyst 12.5 preview driver?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Anyone have their 67hz + killed by amd catalyst 12.5 preview driver?


 I am using the 12.5 beta, if that is what you mean ?

Anyway, no problems at all, can only overclock to 67Hz, @ 68Hz I get a grey screen.

I run it at 65Hz 24/7


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I am using the 12.5 beta, if that is what you mean ?
> 
> Anyway, no problems at all, can only overclock to 67Hz, @ 68Hz I get a grey screen.
> I run it at 65Hz 24/7


Yeah the 12.5 beta.

I finally got it to work but I had to go through the entire process created by hypermatrix again. Dunno what happened.

BTW your sig says you run your catleap at 65hz. Whats the deal with that? 67hz doesn't work well for you? I have a 2D model so i'm just curious..


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Yeah the 12.5 beta.
> I finally got it to work but I had to go through the entire process created by hypermatrix again. Dunno what happened.
> BTW your sig says you run your catleap at 65hz. Whats the deal with that? 67hz doesn't work well for you? I have a 2D model so i'm just curious..


Runs fine at 67Hz, just don't like the idea of running it right on the edge in case it has some long term affect.

I don't fancy sending it back to Korea if it breaks.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

I understand that this is the "Owners" club. However, I figure this might also be a good place for possible future owners.

I'm looking at upgrading my monitor, and originally I was eyeing up a Dell U2412M IPS. However, after seeing so many OCNers jumping aboard the Korean IPS bandwaggon, I decided to check it out. I'm seriously thinking of buying this monitor to compliment my new GTX 670 that I will be getting in the near future. Will a single 670 be able to handle this monster?

This thread seems to be a treasure trove of information, and I'm only just starting to read through it in it's entirety.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

MANY cards can handle this at native and beyond. My initial OCing was done on a GTS 250 w/2 of these bad boys connected. Now, if by saying "handle" do you mean 100FPS, Ultra settings, etc in BF3 and Skyrim? Well then, yes you need a big, bad boy card to handle it. If you get your hands on an OC model, then you want a single 670 or 680 (which can easily hit 120hz with manual timings.) Any SLI prevents hitting the 120 mark. AMD cards are a PIA to OC these monitors with, but we recently had a member hit 103hz with one - the highest we have seen. I believe that success was totally dependent on his card - much like whether you can OC your CPU to a certain point w/certain voltages - it's a crap shoot with AMD cards I am afraid. This is mainly due to their pixel clock limitations that nVidia doesn't have. Well, nVidia's clock is just higher so it can push more pixels at a higher refresh rate.

Stockers, read: 60-65hz Cats, can be pushed well in most games with mid- to upper-level GPUs - RED or GREEN. Doesn't matter much so your preference is what will drive that decision.


----------



## ropeadope

Still on the hunt for a monitor that is around 23", no anti-glare screen, and can do 100hz with ease, and more preferably 120hz, perhaps a pipe dream







- but maybe they'll come out with a new line soon that will do 100+hz guaranteed. Maybe I'm just dreaming though. I got to this party late so I guess all the current catleaps/yamakasi can only do 65hz max? That's what I read anyways.


----------



## corhen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> \
> Depends on the seller I suppose. I got a DOA monitor with dcsamsungmall and he's currently making it hell to return. I'm in the middle of a paypal dispute now with him. Been a month and a week since the monitor stopped working and I emailed him originally.


well, if i got it i would buy the third party Warrenty (dont get them for electronics i buy in NA, but returning it seems like such a hassle that it scares me... thats why im only really afriad of DOA, if it dies after 3 weeks i can just contact the warrenty people!

Ill hunt around a bit more for a seller that i can trust


----------



## DRatchet

Anybody else have an issue where, when your computer turns off the display, the backlight on the screen stays on sometimes?


----------



## Kosta88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Anybody else have an issue where, when your computer turns off the display, the backlight on the screen stays on sometimes?


I believe that is a quite a normal issue with LED lights in general. I have LEDs in my room and they keep on slighly glowing after turned off.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

A BIG THANK YOU! to TheJesus who has been contacting both AMD and nVidia about the issues we are having getting to 120hz (also with SLI). Here is his post from another site w/the companies' respective answers:

*Alright, Nvidia's real support has typed up quite the response. This pretty much states you're lucky the Kepler can do it, Fermi can't, and the actual SLI bridge forces the 400MHz pixel clock.*

**Hello,*

*The case was escalated to me. The 330MHz pixel clock limit is true for Kepler and Fermi when using the dual-link DVI connection. If the connection is over HDMI/DisplayPort then there is a difference between Fermi series (225MHz) and Kepler (340MHz). I don't know the confirmed tested speeds of all connectors but I do know that it's possible to get it working beyond specification. But anything beyond the specification may or may not work depending on the monitor, and result will vary with different cards.*

*Looking at the EDID timing you provided for this monitor, a pixel clock of 400Mhz (399.84Mhz) would be required to reach [email protected] and 500Mhz (497.76Mhz) for 2560x1440x120Hz. I'm surprise you are able to get this to work with dual-link DVI at all, unless you are over-clocking the DVI in order to get more bandwidth. I don't see any other way dual-link DVI would work since 120Hz would require a lot more than 330Mhz. Again I suspect depending on the board, it may be possible to get it working beyond specification, but the result will vary from board to board. Its like over-clocking, some boards will over-clock better than other boards. I've confirmed with engineering and current pixel clock for Kepler and Fermi is correct.*

*SLI is more timing sensitive so the timing enforcement will be more strict, this is by design to insure stability. The same is true for other GPU clock specifications when it comes to SLI. Take the GPU core or memory clock for example, in an SLI configuration if the clocks are different for each GPU then the software will always default both GPUs to the lowest common clock. Another word if one GPU was running at 800Mhz while the other was running at 825Mhz, as soon as you enable SLI both GPU will now run at 800Mhz. I suspect the strict timing requirement is likely preventing pixel clock to run any higher than the default.*

*Based on my understanding on the issue, and my discussion with engineering, I don't see anything that suggest a problem with hardware or our software implementation. If you're asking us to up the specification on our pixel clocks then I'm afraid that's not something we will do unless there is valid reason for it. These clocks are set after rigorous engineering calculations and testing, they are set at those levels for good reasons. As for the restriction when in SLI mode, that is by design and expected behavior. If I'm mistaken then please help clarify the issues.*

*Best regards,*

*Ray**

*Followed by:*

**Hello,*

*Sorry, slight correction on my part with previous specification. The TMDS specification I listed below did not account for DL-DVI. The max, theoretical TMDS link clock is 225MHz for Fermi and is 340MHz for Kepler, which was derived from the HDMI SL requirements. So DVI DL, could go up to 450MHz on Fermi and up to 680MHz on Kepler. Note that these are all theoretical, the real values are determined during qual. Also note that the quality of cabling may be a factor beyond the standards limits.*

*The result you are reporting is in-line with the specification. Kepler is capable of the [email protected] but Fermi is limited to [email protected] due to the 450Mhz. If you look at the monitor EDID detail timing the [email protected] would require 500Mhz, which Fermi is not capable of supporting. I've confirmed with engineering on these specifications.*

*Detailed Timing [DTD#1] 2560 x 1440 @ 120.00Hz Pixel Clock : 497.76MHz HBlank, HBorder : 160, 0 HSyncStart, HSyncWidth : 48, 32 VBlank, VBorder : 85, 0 VSyncStart, VSyncWidth : 3, 5 Image size : 640mm x 360mm DigitalSeparate +/-*

*Detailed Timing [DTD#2] 2560 x 1440 @ 100.00Hz Pixel Clock : 399.84MHz HBlank, HBorder : 160, 0 HSyncStart, HSyncWidth : 48, 32 VBlank, VBorder : 30, 0 VSyncStart, VSyncWidth : 3, 5 Image size : 640mm x 360mm DigitalSeparate +/-*

*Thanks,*

*Ray**

*And one more:*

**Hello,*

*I just got confirmation from engineering that the maximum speed of the SLI bridge is 400Mhz, which would explain why this is limited while in SLI mode. So it's not so much the common timing but a limit on the SLI bridge.*

*Thanks,*

*Ray**

*And I also got this from AMD:*

**Dear Matt,*

*Response and Service Request History:*

*So, how exactly can we assist you on this issue. As I mentioned before there is a hardware limitation thru DL-DVI.*

*In order to update this service request, please respond, leaving the service request reference intact.*

*Best regards,*

*AMD Global Customer Care**


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

As we have seen nvidia kicks butt for OCing these monitors and their customer support.


----------



## corhen

Nvidia: Wall of text discribing the problem

AMD: Umm... what?

Gotta love Nvidia!


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> 
> I believe that is a quite a normal issue with LED lights in general. I have LEDs in my room and they keep on slighly glowing after turned off.


I don't think that's it. The screen actually stays on, it's just black, but lit up. Sometimes it shuts off properly, other times it doesn't. When I turn it off using the power button, it always turns off properly. It's just when my computer turns the display off to save power, etc.


----------



## burksdb

so i'm debating on grabbing one of the catleap monitors or throwing another 480 in my rig for sli.

been throwing the idea around for a few days still haven't decided.


----------



## komichi

Any update on methods to alleviate the uneven backlight without reseating?

It's starting to get worse over the weeks I've been using it ~_~


----------



## Baumage

My Catleap arrived today and I am sad to report that it appears to be DOA. I cannot get the monitor to do anything except for the power light to briefly flash red when I unplug the power cable. My electrical engineering friend and I cracked her open and we couldn't find anything obviously wrong with it (bulging capacitors, short marks) but we were getting an overload (greater than 10 amps) when we used the voltmeter on the power supply. Now I am unsure if I want to just try and start the return process or try to buy one of the power supplies you guys are mentioning from EBay.

To top it all off I am now unable to get my PC to output any video to my old monitor! It was briefly plugged into the Catleap before I determined that it was not turning on. But it has got to be a coincidence right? It isn't possible to damage a computer through the DVI port?

I have read through most of this thread, but if anyone has any tips that would be great!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Baumage*
> 
> My Catleap arrived today and I am sad to report that it appears to be DOA. I cannot get the monitor to do anything except for the power light to briefly flash red when I unplug the power cable. My electrical engineering friend and I cracked her open and we couldn't find anything obviously wrong with it (bulging capacitors, short marks) but we were getting an overload (greater than 10 amps) when we used the voltmeter on the power supply. Now I am unsure if I want to just try and start the return process or try to buy one of the power supplies you guys are mentioning from EBay.
> To top it all off I am now unable to get my PC to output any video to my old monitor! It was briefly plugged into the Catleap before I determined that it was not turning on. But it has got to be a coincidence right? It isn't possible to damage a computer through the DVI port?
> I have read through most of this thread, but if anyone has any tips that would be great!


Sounds like your brick is bad. There is NO color on the power switch with it powered? I have no idea if it is possible to somehow damage a GPU through the DVI port. Try to find the cheapy power brick and report back.


----------



## rolfathan

This leads me to another thought. What's the longest ownership on one of these so far? Anyone know of any catleap clubs in korea? Maybe get a better idea of how reliable they really are after a few months?


----------



## rj2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rolfathan*
> 
> This leads me to another thought. What's the longest ownership on one of these so far? Anyone know of any catleap clubs in korea? Maybe get a better idea of how reliable they really are after a few months?


THIS!!.
everyone is all happy etc right now,but really some have had their monitors what a couple months?
be curious to see a year from now whats what.

I am really itching to get one of these, but the other part of me says buy a top tier monitor with better support etc.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corhen*
> 
> Nvidia: Wall of text discribing the problem
> AMD: Umm... what?
> Gotta love Nvidia!


Kind of. This is a very small excerpt. This is actually the last post I made on it earlier today. There are about 20 or so emails with AMD and about 10 with Nvidia (they pushed to level 2 when I requested engineers). AMD already acknowledged that it was hardware limited (I think?), but still gotta clarify.

I haven't pasted these updates here because they serve no purpose outside of the other place where 120Hz monitors are allowed.


----------



## corhen

Ok, well after much deliberation i decided to pick up the Catleap, i found a seller that would cover the return shipping costs of the monitor if it arrives DOA, then purchessed the warrenty, so all my basses are covered!

if it takes three days to ship, should arrive around tuesday!

keep you guys posted!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Kind of. This is a very small excerpt. This is actually the last post I made on it earlier today. There are about 20 or so emails with AMD and about 10 with Nvidia (they pushed to level 2 when I requested engineers). AMD already acknowledged that it was hardware limited (I think?), but still gotta clarify.
> I haven't pasted these updates here because they serve no purpose outside of the other place where 120Hz monitors are allowed.


Well there are still folks here with OC Cats that wondered about the SLI issues (this is also just a cool discussion anyway) so I pulled it from that other place for people to learn what is going on.

Thanks again for getting to the heart of the matter with this OC issue!


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Well there are still folks here with OC Cats that wondered about the SLI issues (this is also just a cool discussion anyway) so I pulled it from that other place for people to learn what is going on.
> 
> Thanks again for getting to the heart of the matter with this OC issue!


Its not over yet apparently. Someone with a 7970 can hit 120Hz in Linux and without drivers in Windows -_- Hmm, I wonder what the culprit is *DEATH STARE AT AMD DRIVERS*


----------



## Koehler

Does anyone know a seller who has the 100Hz+ versions in stock? I've tried searching for them but can't seem to find one.


----------



## xdemi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Its not over yet apparently. Someone with a 7970 can hit 120Hz in Linux and without drivers in Windows -_- Hmm, I wonder what the culprit is *DEATH STARE AT AMD DRIVERS*


OHHHHHHHHH SHIIIIIIII-

Something's about to go down @ AMD (support)...

If only there were still some active Driver modders (like NGOHQ) that could come and help us out... 100% sure they could fix this.


----------



## alricking

HI guys, posting just want to share my overclocked Catleap with gtx 670. It was easy to push catleap to 120hz with gtx 670. Did not follow HyperX Guide, all I did was manual do the timing. No need to install monitor driver or all those other stuff.

IT seem to be running fine on 120hz. ON Diablo 3 I'm getting 60ish-70ish FPS everything max, so can't really tell you how it is in 120hz


----------



## bjgrenke

Lame, ordered on Sunday and still not here. Hopefully it'll be here by the weekend. Need it for a nice D3 weekend


----------



## bjgrenke

Monoprice shipment came in today. Me and a couple buddies grouped up and bought a bunch of stuff. I got a stand and a DVI cable. I *highly* recommend that stand to anyone. Don't have the monitor of course to test it out, but it's built like a rock and is very adjustable. I put a LOT of weight on it with my hands and almost no bending. Great for the price, but if you're outside of USA shipping will kill when only buying a few items. Cable seems to be nice and thick too. Now if I only had my monitor


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Does anyone know a seller who has the 100Hz+ versions in stock? I've tried searching for them but can't seem to find one.


Search on Google "120 Hz catleap". There are no sellers who go through ebay, if that's where you've been seaching.


----------



## un-nefer

There is a lot of talk around the net of this monitor and how well it performs - but none show actual input lag test results/screenshots.

I found several posts stating the input lag averaged 12ms, and a couple that said they had not tested it, but since other IPS using the same LG panel were around 10ms-15ms that it would be no better.

For those that own this monitor - the Catleap Q270 - and also own an old CRT and a splitter cable, can you run an input lag test and take a handfull of photos showing the difference between the CRT and the Q270 at the highest refresh rate you can achieve and post them for potential owners









It would be great if you did the test using SMTT tool and using a splitter cable for the most accurate results. But if you do not have SMTT tool, using the downloadable version of the input lag stopwatch and a splitter cable would also be worthwhile.

Please, no "clone" mode input lag tests









Cheers in advance to whoever takes the time to provide decent input lag results.


----------



## bjgrenke

Got my Catleap today







Somehow managed to control myself and remove the rear arch and stand before trying it out. Got it mounted on the mono-price mount and it's not bad. The only weak link in the stand is the mechanism that controls the up and down tilt of the monitor. Sometimes it'll tilt down on you and it's hard to get it to sit right. Nonetheless still worth the money. Was too lazy to do cable management today, so I'll do it tomorrow and post pics. Used a simple dead pixel checker that displays full screens of colours, and there's absolutely none that I can see. The only issue is on an all black screen the backlight is somewhat uneven along the top edge of the screen. Not the fading issue, just a type of bleed. Not noticeable for normal use or gaming so I don't really care. 100% satisfied with my Catleap so far







Just needs some calibration... This is a perfect pixel from green-sum for anyone wondering.


----------



## hanaii-sempai

Well crap. I just got my monitor an hour ago. Plugged it in and smoke came out the back. I quickly unplugged it and tried again, but now looks like its completely dead. I live in the US, so the voltage here is only 110V. Only thing I can think of is that the power brick is broken and fails to convert to 24V, ending up frying the monitor.
Sent an email to the seller to see what possible solutions we can explore.
Looks like latenssi also had this problem, and return shipping for him seems to cost upwards of $700, so this doesn't look good








Makes me regret ever considering a korean knockoff...


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaii-sempai*
> 
> Well crap. I just got my monitor an hour ago. Plugged it in and smoke came out the back. I quickly unplugged it and tried again, but now looks like its completely dead. I live in the US, so the voltage here is only 110V. Only thing I can think of is that the power brick is broken and fails to convert to 24V, ending up frying the monitor.
> Sent an email to the seller to see what possible solutions we can explore.
> Looks like latenssi also had this problem, and return shipping for him seems to cost upwards of $700, so this doesn't look good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me regret ever considering a korean knockoff...


shouldn't cost 700$ to ship it back.. highest i've seen is 270$. I wouldn't call these knock offs as they really really aren't they are just a brand using the same panel that apple and a few other companies use.


----------



## hanaii-sempai

I'm glad most people like theirs and haven't had any problems, but the build quality is pretty terrible, but I guess you cant beat it for the price. If I can get a replacement without having to send it back I'd still do it...


----------



## Eagle1337

All things considered not too many have been DOA.


----------



## jylesm

Ok, tried new cord, reinstalling drivers again.. Monitor still doesn't turn on, Although It Reads out in Display settings its not turning on! (GPU =Asus 7970 Dc2).

IF i start-up computer with only the Yamakasi No load.. I then plug in other monitor, and get the blue screen / repair screen to repair, then ending with remove new hardware......... no deal...

Although monitor works, Plugged it into my gtx 285 on my other gaming computer no problem!... Just with ati... anyone experience the same problem and have any fix solutions thanks for reply.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaii-sempai*
> 
> Well crap. I just got my monitor an hour ago. Plugged it in and smoke came out the back. I quickly unplugged it and tried again, but now looks like its completely dead. I live in the US, so the voltage here is only 110V. Only thing I can think of is that the power brick is broken and fails to convert to 24V, ending up frying the monitor.
> Sent an email to the seller to see what possible solutions we can explore.
> Looks like latenssi also had this problem, and return shipping for him seems to cost upwards of $700, so this doesn't look good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me regret ever considering a korean knockoff...


LOL $700. What is he trying to ship it back overnight air-freight?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> LOL $700. What is he trying to ship it back overnight air-freight?


I also did the online quote thing from UPS and FedEx, it really is hundreds of dollars (I did guestimate on the box dimensions). It costs way too much to ship int'l with those companies. That's why I suggested he use USPS since they were like $100-200 I think.


----------



## speedyeggtart

From my understanding regarding international shipping - it is not that expensive for other countries to ship to each other and into the USA... but for USA to ship stuff out to other countries (not in N. America), it can get pretty expenisve.


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> There is a lot of talk around the net of this monitor and how well it performs - but none show actual input lag test results/screenshots.
> I found several posts stating the input lag averaged 12ms, and a couple that said they had not tested it, but since other IPS using the same LG panel were around 10ms-15ms that it would be no better.
> For those that own this monitor - the Catleap Q270 - and also own an old CRT and a splitter cable, can you run an input lag test and take a handfull of photos showing the difference between the CRT and the Q270 at the highest refresh rate you can achieve and post them for potential owners
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It would be great if you did the test using SMTT tool and using a splitter cable for the most accurate results. But if you do not have SMTT tool, using the downloadable version of the input lag stopwatch and a splitter cable would also be worthwhile.
> Please, no "clone" mode input lag tests
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers in advance to whoever takes the time to provide decent input lag results.


Bump so not lost in thread


----------



## kablam0r

No regrets? I'm about to pull the trigger on the same monitor from "greensum"?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kablam0r*
> 
> No regrets? I'm about to pull the trigger on the same monitor from "greensum"?


None on my part and I now own 4.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanaii-sempai*
> 
> Well crap. I just got my monitor an hour ago. Plugged it in and smoke came out the back. I quickly unplugged it and tried again, but now looks like its completely dead. I live in the US, so the voltage here is only 110V. Only thing I can think of is that the power brick is broken and fails to convert to 24V, ending up frying the monitor.
> Sent an email to the seller to see what possible solutions we can explore.
> Looks like latenssi also had this problem, and return shipping for him seems to cost upwards of $700, so this doesn't look good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Makes me regret ever considering a korean knockoff...


If you're a little adventurous open her up and see what went poof. You may be able do to the repair yourself. Sorry to hear she may have gone poof on you although this sounds completely covered under the seller's return warranty? I thought most were offering 14 or 30 days for returns paid? Is this not true anymore? You could also do something with paypal possibly to get the thing returned without money out of your pocket.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jylesm*
> 
> Ok, tried new cord, reinstalling drivers again.. Monitor still doesn't turn on, Although It Reads out in Display settings its not turning on! (GPU =Asus 7970 Dc2).
> IF i start-up computer with only the Yamakasi No load.. I then plug in other monitor, and get the blue screen / repair screen to repair, then ending with remove new hardware......... no deal...
> Although monitor works, Plugged it into my gtx 285 on my other gaming computer no problem!... Just with ati... anyone experience the same problem and have any fix solutions thanks for reply.


I am only replying that AMD seems to suck big time with these monitors. I have no idea what the deal is since people are having issues with different cards not seeing the Cat, same card not seeing the Cat - but all with different symptoms. Really strange. We do know that AMD's drivers suck for OCing these things and I assume issues like yours are purely driver related (especially since the green team sees and displays your Cat.) Some people have dumped AMD drivers and ran through windows, some have done roll backs, I have never owned an AMD so I am no expert on the cards (not even close). Best of luck.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

After reading all the shining reviews, I have pulled the trigger on a Catleap from bigclothcraft for $330.

It's amazing to see how much prices have dropped in just a month or two. Keeping my fingers crossed that I get this quickly, and undamaged.


----------



## JabberWakie

Just wanted to chime in with my recent experience with the Catleap 27".. after reading the glowing reviews and watching a couple youtube videos I decided to pull the trigger. I got the Q270 SE model from Greensum for $329 shipped. Placed the order Sunday evening, received the model in California mid Wednesday, quick turn around!

Impressions: No dead pixels (that I can see, I've looked really closely and used a pixel testing program), the backlight looks very uniform but might not be 'perfect'. Colors are so much better then my year old 24" TN panel. The resolution is much better then 1080p, love having more real-estate. I wasn't aware that the SE is the glossy model but don't mind it much. None of the 'dust under the screen' issues I was wary of. Overall this is the best tech purchase I've made in a while (SSD comes to mind).. Diablo 3 looks incredible on this display so the timing was great. I haven't tried overclocking the refresh rate, my HD4780X2 only sees 60hz as an available option.

I highly recommend picking one up!

-Jake


----------



## flipnkraut

I got my Catleap yesterday but can't use it yet, waiting for my DP > DL-DVI cable to get here. I've been reading through this thread trying to figure out how to take the silver arc off the back. I keep seeing people saying they've done it, but I havent read anywhere on exactly how. Do you have to take the entire back off?


----------



## Somenamehere

Have not kept up with this thread for some time,. Can anyone quickly tell me what happened to the idea of switching the internals to get the monitors to oc?

Thanks


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Somenamehere*
> 
> Have not kept up with this thread for some time,. Can anyone quickly tell me what happened to the idea of switching the internals to get the monitors to oc?
> Thanks


We are not aloud to talk about it here now or give out the site were you can get up to date info, but if you Google "Yamakasi Catleap Q270 120Hz" you will find the site near the top.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flipnkraut*
> 
> I got my Catleap yesterday but can't use it yet, waiting for my DP > DL-DVI cable to get here. I've been reading through this thread trying to figure out how to take the silver arc off the back. I keep seeing people saying they've done it, but I havent read anywhere on exactly how. Do you have to take the entire back off?


There's a guide in the OP labled stand removal. It also shoes you how to remove the arc. Pretty simple if you have patience. I just did it yesterday. Successful, but kind of scary


----------



## Wiz33

Does anyone know if Yamakasi will release a model with DP in addition to the HDMI on the Multi?


----------



## bukkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*
> 
> After reading all the shining reviews, I have pulled the trigger on a Catleap from bigclothcraft for $330.
> It's amazing to see how much prices have dropped in just a month or two. Keeping my fingers crossed that I get this quickly, and undamaged.


i ordered mine from bigclothcraft, it came two days later and undamaged. my monitor works perfectly, no dead pixels or anything. hope yours will be the same.


----------



## un-nefer

All these recommendations for this monitor and so many OCN members saying they bought it and they love it, yet not one can do an input lag test?


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> All these recommendations for this monitor and so many OCN members saying they bought it and they love it, yet not one can do an input lag test?


I think no one has bother because A: it feels extremely fast and B: people know it doesn't have a scalar. That would put the input lag well below 1 frame. Running my 2B at 120 Hz I cannot tell the difference as a FPS player versus my FW900. And I am pretty sensitive to input lag. Granted maybe one of these days when I am bored I'll check it out as I have all of the equipment and the software. But like I said no rush, the panel is fast. (This is coming from a perspective of the monitor overclocked as I don;t run 60 Hz).


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I think no one has bother because A: it feels extremely fast and B: people know it doesn't have a scalar. That would put the input lag well below 1 frame.


Would be good to see actual test results to confirm this though before spending money on one


----------



## hennyo

Hi Scribby, are there any replacement 2B boards available? You know there are so many of us die-ing for these boards.

60hz and hum is alright, but imo not worth it unless it's 120hz. Then even if the monitor hums (white pages) it's worth fixing / opening up. 120 is much more exciting.

There are so many of us watching. How are those 2B Pcb coming? We're also watching the other place as well.







Hypermatrix, thanks for the video! Appreciate all the help! You guys rock, what a communal effort to get the best to our desks from these people here. Please continue with your hard work on this issue (PCB's).

There are so many of us here I]aching[/I] for the new pcb's. Thank you all! We just like our prices closer to $320 than $460. Much more accessible to get two monitors or three if prices can be kept closer to reduced on the pcb side. Keep pushing the envelope!

Addition information:

Thanks for the help with the 2B option! However that is quite a lot more expensive than the Standard SE option though, and for only 5-10$ more in pcb parts. _*Yamakasi really dropped the ball on this one.*_ By not keeping all their monitors 2B variation. Please help us source the 2B option. Fantastic work thus far! We're almost done with this monitor! (research, weighing the benefits is no question if we can source the pcb board. I think many of us would buy more boards -slash - monitors.

Best Regards
Thank you


----------



## hennyo

There must be a way to source these 2B pcb boards.

Fixing the hum is much more variable -worth it- on the 120hz monitor vs the 60hz monitor. I'll leave my frustrations at that. (on the edge of not wanting my 60 with the compounded hum). The 120 would also make it much faster for gaming, movie-ing, pretty much just a much better monitor for everything. (and IPS - future-proof for quite some time-. At the very least until the 4k x 2k OLED stands come down) price. There would be no reason to upgrade from a monitor like this until they hit some very low pricing.

It's probably worth noting for other people on here my tolerances for hum are on the verge of zero though.

Just trying to source this pcb board, fix the hum, and be done with (_*enjoy*_) it, the monitor.

Yamakasi did a great job with this monitor though, truly loving the stand, ergonomics and aesthetic look to the monitor.

(Engineering choices, material/stand choice).


----------



## 1rkrage

Hrm. highly considering to get one.

I have a Samsung S27A350H 27 inch at my apartment but the monitor isn't cutting it and I noticed I'm often not viewing directly so text doesn't look as sharp as my acer 23 inch at my parents' house. And the color seems a bit off.

I now have to wear glasses so I think IPS is going to be a must soon to further protect my eyes.

the ones on eBay are glossy right?


----------



## Qu1ckset

So is this monitor good for gaming??
Im looking to sell off my eyefinity setup and even my hd6990 amd get one of these bad boys with a gtx690
will this monitor be way better as far as color amd clearness compared to my Acer G245H?

Ive briefly gone threw this thread and see some of you members overclocking your 60hz models and im not overly interested in oc it and burning it out, ive never owned a monitor over 60hz, is there a big difference in picture?

and what is the price difference between the 60hz and 120hz models?
lastly i see the YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27 on ebay go ruffly for $320ish give or take a couple bucks with free shipping

Is that the best place to buy or is there better sites?(Im located in canada)


----------



## Degree

i'm considering to get this instead of the BenQ XL2420T
Is this the best korean monitors as of right now?
And it can get 120hz correct? (120hz is the only reason I wanted to get the BenQ)


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> the ones on eBay are glossy right?


Correct. TBH, I didn't think glossy would be good for me as I have a HUGE window in my room, but I can hardly even notice the glare and it feels like the picture has no mask over it. Highly prefer glossy over my old Asus AG monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> So is this monitor good for gaming??
> Im looking to sell off my eyefinity setup and even my hd6990 amd get one of these bad boys with a gtx690
> will this monitor be way better as far as color amd clearness compared to my Acer G245H?
> Ive briefly gone threw this thread and see some of you members overclocking your 60hz models and im not overly interested in oc it and burning it out, ive never owned a monitor over 60hz, is there a big difference in picture?
> and what is the price difference between the 60hz and 120hz models?
> lastly i see the YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27 on ebay go ruffly for $320ish give or take a couple bucks with free shipping
> Is that the best place to buy or is there better sites?(Im located in canada)


A fellow Canadian







The colours on the Catleap will be much more vivid compared to you monitor since this is an IPS display compared to your old monitor which is a TN. I came from TN to IPS with my Catleap and the colours look MUCH better. The only version of these monitors that can OC to 120hz are the "2B" models which are available for a steep $460. Alternatively if you really want 120hz you can buy a regular one off eBay and if things work out you'll be able to purchase just a 2B PCB to install in your monitor. With 120hz it'll be much smoother with motion. Especially since you're getting a gtx690, at 60hz you'll only be able to visibly see 60fps, but with the 120hz you can see 120fps. eBay is the only location to currently buy these monitors. For seller choice, I went with greensum but only because he had a sale at the time. Bigclothcraft is also a great seller.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> i'm considering to get this instead of the BenQ XL2420T
> Is this the best korean monitors as of right now?
> And it can get 120hz correct? (120hz is the only reason I wanted to get the BenQ)


All of the Korean monitors are the exact same panel, so it just comes down to price and aesthetics. You can only get 120hz if you purchase a "2B" model as mentioned above. The 2B model is only available for $460 and you have to google "Yamakasi Catleap Extreme 2B 120hz" to get info. Not allowed to talk about it


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> All of the Korean monitors are the exact same panel, so it just comes down to price and aesthetics. You can only get 120hz if you purchase a "2B" model as mentioned above. The 2B model is only available for $460 and you have to google "Yamakasi Catleap Extreme 2B 120hz" to get info. Not allowed to talk about it


Why are we not allowed to talk about "overclocking" on an overclocking forum..? O_O


----------



## Sheyster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Why are we not allowed to talk about "overclocking" on an overclocking forum..? O_O


The problem isn't talking about the overclocking itself, the discussion about it was turning into a group buy thread which the owners of the site did not want to be involved with.

If you own one of these monitors and want help overclocking it or modding it, you can start a thread asking questions. Of course you should use the search feature first.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sheyster*
> 
> The problem isn't talking about the overclocking itself, the discussion about it was turning into a group buy thread which the owners of the site did not want to be involved with.
> If you own one of these monitors and want help overclocking it or modding it, you can start a thread asking questions. Of course you should use the search feature first.


Well actually they wanted to take over the entire deal if you check out the original thread. We just were not willing to hand it all over after four months of work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hennyo*
> 
> Hi Scribby, are there any replacement 2B boards available? You know there are so many of us die-ing for these boards.
> 60hz and hum is alright, but imo not worth it unless it's 120hz. Then even if the monitor hums (white pages) it's worth fixing / opening up. 120 is much more exciting.
> There are so many of us watching. How are those 2B Pcb coming? We're also watching the other place as well.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hypermatrix, thanks for the video! Appreciate all the help! You guys rock, what a communal effort to get the best to our desks from these people here. Please continue with your hard work on this issue (PCB's).
> There are so many of us here I]aching[/I] for the new pcb's. Thank you all! We just like our prices closer to $320 than $460. Much more accessible to get two monitors or three if prices can be kept closer to reduced on the pcb side. Keep pushing the envelope!
> Addition information:
> Thanks for the help with the 2B option! However that is quite a lot more expensive than the Standard SE option though, and for only 5-10$ more in pcb parts. _*Yamakasi really dropped the ball on this one.*_ By not keeping all their monitors 2B variation. Please help us source the 2B option. Fantastic work thus far! We're almost done with this monitor! (research, weighing the benefits is no question if we can source the pcb board. I think many of us would buy more boards -slash - monitors.
> Best Regards
> Thank you


Well, a lot in there I am not allowed to discuss here on OCN. I will say your opinion on the PCB cost is WAY off. This is not a simple $5-10 difference in cost. These PCBs are a bit more complicated with a few chips that are very difficult to source at the moment. Witech did not drop the ball in my opinion since there is, relatively speaking, a very small group of OC crazies on the planet who want the 120hz version. On top of that, you can only reach 120hz with a single 670 or 680 card at the moment, which narrows this down a bit further (yes, I know up to 100hz is possible with many different cards, but 120hz is God's refresh rate right?)

Finally on cost - I think you are a little nuts! Remember, the cost for ALL these monitors regardless of where you buy them has EXPRESS SHIPPING INCLUDED. And when I say express - it is friggin' express. So you buy the most beautiful panel available in this size, order it from the other side of the world, and it arrives at your door in less than a week (people report getting them in THREE DAYS)? And $460 is too expensive? That's nuts.


----------



## Theomico

I bought 2 weeks ago a screen from Yamakasi. It is the basic one: no glass, just Dual Link DVI entry and no speakers. I want to share here my feedback as this post has a deep source of information for me, though I should have read more carefully.
So, shipping was lightening fast, less than 1 week. It arrived before I received my cable mini displayport to DVI Dual Link. Screen is flawless, no dead pixel, though I feel it is a little blueish and brightness not strong enough. Packaging was light, not a lot protection except for the standard box it is sold in in Korea. The manual is in Korean, by the way.
I leave in France and I had to pay tax normal rate for the price I bought it. Which means that Yamakasi is displaying the purchase price in full including the shipping (it should not include the shipping !!!). This was a little annoying.

Then, I first tried to hook up the screen with my PS3. Due to my insufficient studies, I thought I could connect the screen to the PS3 using a HDMI to DVI Dual Link cable. But it does not work !! Actually, the screen needs to receive the full resolution 2560x1440 in order to work. And it looks like any conversion should require additional power as the mini displayport to DVI Dual Link. So far, I could not find any cable from HDMI to DVI Dual Link with power supply from USB or else.

I also connected the screen to my macbook pro 15'' early 2011 with internal graphic card (HD6570). Works perfectly. I also tried with my wive's macbook 13'' from 2008 with no graphic card. Even if the screen is said not to work with that kind of light laptop, it worked fine too.

Overall, it is a nice product. Image is beautiful. Before buying, you need to thoroughly study your needs. Keep in mind you may have to pay tax for import.

Cheers !


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theomico*
> 
> I feel it is a little blueish and brightness not strong enough.
> Cheers !


There's a colour calibration guide in the op of this club. Mine was greenish originally but now it's fine. For brightness there's buttons for increasing and decreasing brightness next to the power button.


----------



## CallsignVega

For those that have the hum/buzz, it really is a simple fix. My 2B had a loud buzz, just popped the panel out and the PCB cover off. Applied a couple layers thick of double-stick tape on top of the two chokes labeled "220" and the monitor is silent now.


----------



## dougcbj

Having trouble finding the 120hz models for some reason, did someone say that they had 120hz listed (like a factory overclock)?


----------



## odditory

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Well actually they wanted to take over the entire deal if you check out the original thread. We just were not willing to hand it all over after four months of work.


That's record breaking obnoxious. F 'em. Glad you didn't bend over, Scribby. I had a similar thing happen to me on another forum, I recognized something that no one had thought to use in a home storage context, and would be dirt cheap to source and people would gladly pay 5x the cost and still consider it a bargain. Put in a lot of work doing various testing, I post my results and it explodes as predicted.

Next thing you know the powers that be want in on the action. Offered me a "mod" position for my trouble, *LMAO*. So I just turned the information loose to everyone, solved that problem. Now its the most popular device in its class and pretty much defacto in every home storage build, and pricewise is selling for 5x the original cost thanks to ebay vultures and everyone else.

Anyway see you on the other site.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dougcbj*
> 
> Having trouble finding the 120hz models for some reason, did someone say that they had 120hz listed (like a factory overclock)?


If you would have read the last page or two, I mentioned it many times .Google "Yamakasi Catleap Extreme 2B 120hz".


----------



## DRatchet

My Catleap just died after working for about a week. LED power indicator doesn't even turn on. Damn it. I contacted my seller (green-sum) about it, I'm awaiting a response. There's no way I can pay hundreds of dollars to ship it back to Korea, so I really hope he offers to pay for return shipping. If not, I'll have to open it up and try and fix it myself. I tested the output voltages of the power brick and they seem fine, so I'm quite sure it's the monitor. My luck really stinks...


----------



## Qu1ckset

How long is the warrenty on these monitors


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> How long is the warrenty on these monitors


The ebay models have no manufacturer warranties. You have to purchase a Squaretrade warranty if you want go through ebay, otherwise there is the Microcenter Auria monitor with a 1 year warranty.


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> The ebay models have no manufacturer warranties. You have to purchase a Squaretrade warranty if you want go through ebay, otherwise there is the Microcenter Auria monitor with a 1 year warranty.


Some of the ebay ones have a 1 year warranty.


----------



## Niko-Time

No, they come with a 1 year warranty regardless of buying squaretrade


----------



## hennyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Well actually they wanted to take over the entire deal if you check out the original thread. We just were not willing to hand it all over after four months of work.
> 
> Well, a lot in there I am not allowed to discuss here on OCN. I will say your opinion on the PCB cost is WAY off. This is not a simple $5-10 difference in cost. These PCBs are a bit more complicated with a few chips that are very difficult to source at the moment. Witech did not drop the ball in my opinion since there is, relatively speaking, a very small group of OC crazies on the planet who want the 120hz version. On top of that, you can only reach 120hz with a single 670 or 680 card at the moment, which narrows this down a bit further (yes, I know up to 100hz is possible with many different cards, but 120hz is God's refresh rate right?)
> 
> Finally on cost - I think you are a little nuts! Remember, the cost for ALL these monitors regardless of where you buy them has EXPRESS SHIPPING INCLUDED. And when I say express - it is friggin' express. So you buy the most beautiful panel available in this size, order it from the other side of the world, and it arrives at your door in less than a week (people report getting them in THREE DAYS)? And $460 is too expensive? That's nuts.


I think it's a 3-7$ difference. These chips in a board like this are $3-7, all other parts are nil. You are making it quite clear that you are making a ton on these boards - monitors. Considering it is 290-320 on ebay for these monitors, with very little difference (1-3 chips, maybe a voltage divider, 1-2 resistors), you should be far closer to 320 than you are to me. 460 seems very opportunistic. It is also fair to be asking for these for 400 (or a bit less) since 4k x 2k monitors will be here next year. OLED to boot (which is superior to IPS technology).

You really should be helping us with boards, not everyone can go out and spend 460 dollars on a monitor. Or two. It would really be great/helpful if you would help us source a good set of 2B boards, or help us get our hands on a set or two. They're really not that hard to source. It's just a board design. I've emailed WiTech and expect to hear from them soon. Will you help us please? There's no reason really not to.


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hennyo*
> 
> I think it's a 3-7$ difference. These chips in a board like this are $3-7, all other parts are nil. You are making it quite clear that you are making a ton on these boards - monitors. Considering it is 290-320 on ebay for these monitors, with very little difference (1-3 chips, maybe a voltage divider, 1-2 resistors), you should be far closer to 320 than you are to me. 460 seems very opportunistic. It is also fair to be asking for these for 400 (or a bit less) since 4k x 2k monitors will be here next year. OLED to boot (which is superior to IPS technology).
> You really should be helping us with boards, not everyone can go out and spend 460 dollars on a monitor. Or two. It would really be great/helpful if you would help us source a good set of 2B boards, or help us get our hands on a set or two. They're really not that hard to source. It's just a board design. I've emailed WiTech and expect to hear from them soon. Will you help us please? There's no reason really not to.


Next time, do your research before ripping on someone who has put a good 4+ months of work in getting the 120Hz version from witech. Want a reason for the price? Because there are only about 1000 or so left of the 2B model PCB's that haven't been sold. The 2B catleap is a custom order for witech - they spend extra time and effort on these to only sell 1000. They are also the only IPS 2560x1440 monitors on the planet that can go to 120Hz. You're lucky they didn't realize the supply vs. demand and charge $1000 or more for them. The price is still cheap - if this same quality monitor was sold in North America, it could be 2-3 times the price.

There are several inaccuracies in this post and unsourced bits of information. There will be 4k by 2k monitors? In OLED? Sure, it might be possible, but they sure as heck won't be $400 for a 27". More like $4000. You say they will be on the market in a computer monitor by next year - got proof? (Yes, I know they use them on smartphones, but that is a different ball game than a 20+ inch computer monitor)

Also, read the thread. You don't think Scribby has been trying to source the board? What makes you think you will have any more success in 3 days than he has in months?

-Scott


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hennyo*
> 
> I think it's a 3-7$ difference. These chips in a board like this are $3-7, all other parts are nil. You are making it quite clear that you are making a ton on these boards - monitors. Considering it is 290-320 on ebay for these monitors, with very little difference (1-3 chips, maybe a voltage divider, 1-2 resistors), you should be far closer to 320 than you are to me. 460 seems very opportunistic. It is also fair to be asking for these for 400 (or a bit less) since 4k x 2k monitors will be here next year. OLED to boot (which is superior to IPS technology).
> You really should be helping us with boards, not everyone can go out and spend 460 dollars on a monitor. Or two. It would really be great/helpful if you would help us source a good set of 2B boards, or help us get our hands on a set or two. They're really not that hard to source. It's just a board design. I've emailed WiTech and expect to hear from them soon. Will you help us please? There's no reason really not to.


Is this suppose to be a serious post?


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Is this suppose to be a serious post?


You know, I wasn't too sure to be honest. if he's trolling, he could do a way better job of it.


----------



## Qu1ckset

can you guys post hi rez pics of this monitor with glass and without


----------



## erocker

I mentioned earlier that I have this faint line running down the middle of my screen (a bit left center to be more accurate) and after playing with some settings I've gotten it to show up in a photo finally. Here it is:



The entire row is stuck on what seems to be red. It gets lighter over lighter colors and darker over darker colors (white it's barely noticable, black it is invisible). Anyone know what went wrong with it? Is there a small connection somewhere that needs to be fixed? I can solder tiny things if need be.

Thanks!


----------



## rwswalker

Planning to get a new 27" monitor, IPS preferable.

I do lots of reading on the computer, but very few gaming.

Would these IPS monitors be good candidates as reading monitors? (or will they be too bright?)


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rwswalker*
> 
> Planning to get a new 27" monitor, IPS preferable.
> I do lots of reading on the computer, but very few gaming.
> Would these IPS monitors be good candidates as reading monitors? (or will they be too bright?)


With the adjustable brightness they go from somewhat dim to REALLY bright. When doing casual OCN browsing and other internet browsing the brightness isn't a problem at just above mid.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Just wanted to let you all know I will not be heading up the Catleap Club here on OCN. If there is someone out there that would like to take over club management, please let me know so we can PM an admin to get the thread changed, closed, moved, whatever OCN deems is necessary to keep this club up and active.

Thanks to all of you who have contributed to my understanding of these panels (and their brethren) over the last four months.

Cheers!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Just wanted to let you all know I will not be heading up the Catleap Club here on OCN. If there is someone out there that would like to take over club management, please let me know so we can PM an admin to get the thread changed, closed, moved, whatever OCN deems is necessary to keep this club up and active.
> 
> Thanks to all of you who have contributed to my understanding of these panels (and their brethren) over the last four months.
> 
> Cheers!


Thanks for your contributions








Will be seeing you elsewhere..


----------



## Tuny

will the monitor work with an nvidia GTX 275?


----------



## cyprusx

Heay guys im going to buy this one from ebay for 399 AU

New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Monitor *Perfect Pixel

what do you guys think? its from the sell green-sum?

It says express post which i thought only takes a few days?
Delivery: Estimated between Tue. 5 Jun. and Tue. 19 Jun. what does that mean?

Does it have the glossy screen? if it does do you know were i can get one without the glossy screen

and what is the SE model that costs 10 bucks more?

So do i need to buy any extras? i live in Australia so i can just plug it in and it will work or do i need a adapter?


----------



## burksdb

well bought mine should be here next week someone time cant wait will update when i receive it.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyprusx*
> 
> Heay guys im going to buy this one from ebay for 399 AU
> New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Monitor *Perfect Pixel
> what do you guys think? its from the sell green-sum?
> It says express post which i thought only takes a few days?
> Delivery: Estimated between Tue. 5 Jun. and Tue. 19 Jun. what does that mean?
> Does it have the glossy screen? if it does do you know were i can get one without the glossy screen
> and what is the SE model that costs 10 bucks more?
> So do i need to buy any extras? i live in Australia so i can just plug it in and it will work or do i need a adapter?


I purchased the same one from greensum. Mine has no dead pixels and no backlight issues. I doubt it'd take that long to ship to you. Somewhere on Greensum's store he has a chart listing shipping times by location. Should take no more than a week. It does have the glossy screen, but TBH I thought the gloss would suck for glare, but the picture is actually much nicer and glare is no issue. Some people have been randomly receiving AG models but they aren't marked differently from the gloss ones and I wouldn't count on getting an AG one. The SE model has no speakers, and the non-SE model has speakers. For power adapters I know greensum includes a Korean to North American plug adapter, but I doubt he'd include one for AU. You'll need a standard power cable like this:


----------



## Qu1ckset

do they even sell the 120hz models on ebay?


----------



## cyprusx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I purchased the same one from greensum. Mine has no dead pixels and no backlight issues. I doubt it'd take that long to ship to you. Somewhere on Greensum's store he has a chart listing shipping times by location. Should take no more than a week. It does have the glossy screen, but TBH I thought the gloss would suck for glare, but the picture is actually much nicer and glare is no issue. Some people have been randomly receiving AG models but they aren't marked differently from the gloss ones and I wouldn't count on getting an AG one. The SE model has no speakers, and the non-SE model has speakers. For power adapters I know greensum includes a Korean to North American plug adapter, but I doubt he'd include one for AU. You'll need a standard power cable like this:


okay cool thanks mate, but now im hella confused apparently the Crossover 27Q is better than the catleap, has anyone got that one


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> do they even sell the 120hz models on ebay?


Not yet, Green-Sum might at some point.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyprusx*
> 
> okay cool thanks mate, but now im hella confused apparently the Crossover 27Q is better than the catleap, has anyone got that one


They're all the exact same panel, just comes down to aesthetics and price.


----------



## cyprusx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> They're all the exact same panel, just comes down to aesthetics and price.


Well apparently the crossover has a better stand build quality, and has been reported to have "less" faults


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyprusx*
> 
> Well apparently the crossover has a better stand build quality, and has been reported to have "less" faults


The stand might have better quality, not sure about it having better odds for a perfect panel. Another reason to go Catleap is you have all us to aid you with issues, or things like modding or getting an OCing PCB


----------



## phorkz

Hi guys, today i received my catleap.

Using an AMD 7970 Card.
All was working fine, till for some reason, i went into CCC, and unticked the box "use gpu scaling", then the screen went blank(green flashing light).

When booting the pc, the screen works fine, shows all boot up etc, right until the windows desktop should be displayed then back to blinking green light.

I have connected another monitor changed gpu scaling back to on, uninstalled drivers, reinstalled, but nothing i do will get the monitor from displaying windows again.

Please help, this is incredibly frustrating, knowing that it was working fine till i changed that setting.

Also, screen is not OC or anything like that

Thankyou guys.


----------



## Xzyrus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phorkz*
> 
> Hi guys, today i received my catleap.
> Using an AMD 7970 Card.
> All was working fine, till for some reason, i went into CCC, and unticked the box "use gpu scaling", then the screen went blank(green flashing light).
> When booting the pc, the screen works fine, shows all boot up etc, right until the windows desktop should be displayed then back to blinking green light.
> I have connected another monitor changed gpu scaling back to on, uninstalled drivers, reinstalled, but nothing i do will get the monitor from displaying windows again.
> Please help, this is incredibly frustrating, knowing that it was working fine till i changed that setting.
> Also, screen is not OC or anything like that
> Thankyou guys.


Try booting into safe mode and see if you can reinstall the gpu drivers to see if the settings reset?


----------



## eternal7trance

So I opened up an ebay dispute to get my money back, the guy responded with a bunch of false claims, I responded back and he never responded back to the proof I gave, so now I escalated it. Hopefully I can get my money back for this thing.

This monitor may seem great but have fun when it breaks.


----------



## Drneeley

Just received my Catleap Q270 SE (perfect pixel) from Green-Sum and I am very, very impressed. No need for color adjustment out of the box and the stand is perfectly level. I just used an extra power supply plug I had laying around to replace the foreign plug it came with. Even though the response time is 6ms instead of 2ms on my last monitor, I cant tell a difference. Witcher 2, Crysis 2, BF3, Tribes: Ascend, and Diablo 3 all look stunning. Its a 2D PCB so I only overclocked it to 67Hz using nVidia control panel custom resolution and automatic timings, and will probably leave it at that considering the AAA game titles I play can barely break 60FPS even with my GTX 680. Ill give an update if it breaks, but I dont expect it to.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drneeley*
> 
> Just received my Catleap Q270 SE (perfect pixel) from Green-Sum and I am very, very impressed. No need for color adjustment out of the box and the stand is perfectly level. I just used an extra power supply plug I had laying around to replace the foreign plug it came with. Even though the response time is 6ms instead of 2ms on my last monitor, I cant tell a difference. Witcher 2, Crysis 2, BF3, Tribes: Ascend, and Diablo 3 all look stunning. Its a 2D PCB so I only overclocked it to 67Hz using nVidia control panel custom resolution and automatic timings, and will probably leave it at that considering the AAA game titles I play can barely break 60FPS even with my GTX 680. Ill give an update if it breaks, but I dont expect it to.


Good to hear







Though the colours may look good, you should try the calibration in the OP. I thought my colours were good but they were even better with calibration.


----------



## Djankie

How did it break if I may ask ? Just spontaniously?


----------



## bjgrenke

Guess I never got around to joining the club








Here's my Catleap:


9/10 for condition, 10/10 overall. The only defect I have is a small backlight bleed along the top edge. Doesn't bother me since it's only visible on a black screen in a dark room.
It's a pixel perfect from greensum, 2C model


----------



## jimboston

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> S I have no idea if it is possible to somehow damage a GPU through the DVI port.


We picked up a Catleap a week ago (5-15-2012) , confirmed that it IS possible to kill your video card, we initially used a 3rd party cable, not the one provided, and hooked up the catleap to a Firepro v4900. We saw nothing but vertical color streaked lines. Upon trying to go back to the old monitor, we found we couldn't and no monitor we tried worked, we swapped cables at this point and still none worked. We swapped to an older quadro we had sitting around, and using the provided DVI cable in the box were able to get all the other monitors. All the other monitors worked, and the catleap as well... for a little bit. We moved the catleap to another spot o the desk, and now it won't do anything. With the power supply plugged in no red light (no lights of any kind) the brick appears to have 23 volts or so, but we can't test if it's able to provide enough current... but who knows. Not really sure what we're going to do at this point, or which is going to be the least costly way to get out of this dead catleap situation. We were really excited, but be warned, problems (big ones) are quite possible... luckily we bought the killed video card not long ago either and were able to exchange it for another.


----------



## PatrickCrowely

Looking into this Monitor. Looks great, but does it perform?


----------



## vlenbo

(sticks out from the white, kind of purplish)

 (above firefox, looks red from picture, and the one earlier from picture as well. Looking at it, it changes to a different color depending viewing angle.)

 (dead or sub pixel?)

 (sticks out again)

 (same thing)

 (Same thing)

I know there are more in this monitor, and bigclothcraft did check to see if this was a faulty one and did follow the rules of being a defective monitor, but do you think I should return this monitor and order a new one with perfect pixel? Or should i Just stay with this monitor?

Edit: IF I return this, which seller can give me a monitor with no dead or stuck pixel AND no DOA monitors? Bigclothcraft did check one DOA monitor before he shipped it, what other seller can do this? And does pixel perfect guarantee no dead or stuck ones?


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phorkz*
> 
> All was working fine, till for some reason, i went into CCC, and unticked the box "use gpu scaling", then the screen went blank(green flashing light).
> When booting the pc, the screen works fine, shows all boot up etc, right until the windows desktop should be displayed then back to blinking green light.


I am pretty confident this is because these monitors do not have scalers in them - you must run these monitors at their native resolution.

By unticking the "use gpu scaling" option, you have stopped your GPU from scaling non-native images to native resolution of the display.

try this to fix:

connect you old monitor to your PC
re-enable "use gpu scaling"
reconnect your catleap
manually set the resolution to the native size for the catleap 2560x1440
disable "use gpu scaling"
it should now work at native resolution without any gpu scaling
In future, if you want to run a non-native resolution, you should re-enable "use gpu scaling" first.


----------



## plum

I have a question concerning the resolution in games. Can I still play at 1920x1080 with a *sharp* image? I don't mind if there's black borders as long as it's not blurry at all.

also, if I understand this right... "Pixel Perfect" is actually a lie because of their policies and whatnot, you can still get pixel defects? I know we're paying for A- monitors, but if they're selling something called Pixel Perfect then it shouldn't have any pixel issues and only perhaps have some bleed, that's it.


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> but if they're selling something called Pixel Perfect then it shouldn't have any pixel issues and only perhaps have some bleed, that's it.


I suspect their use of "pixel perfect" is in relation to dead pixels - as in the monitors are checked for dead pixels before delivery - nothing more.


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> I suspect their use of "pixel perfect" is in relation to dead pixels - as in the monitors are checked for dead pixels before delivery - nothing more.


So the pixel perfect would only work on that dead pixel that was shown on my picture? That black dot is t he only thing that'd be gone form my monitor? bright dots, stuck pixels, and etc won't be checked up as well with pixel perfect?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *un-nefer*
> 
> I suspect their use of "pixel perfect" is in relation to dead pixels - as in the monitors are checked for dead pixels before delivery - nothing more.


I asked greensum prior to purchase and he told me he checks for dead/bright pixels as well as major backlight fade. Minor backlight issues won't be checked.

500th post


----------



## corhen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> I have a question concerning the resolution in games. Can I still play at 1920x1080 with a *sharp* image? I don't mind if there's black borders as long as it's not blurry at all.


My guess, not owning this moniter, is both Yes.. and no!

as long as you use your GPU scaler, it should be reasonably sharp, not AS sharp as a proper 1080p moniter, but pretty close.

You have to remember, by this point thoes pixles are getting pretty tiny, and as such shouldnt have too much of a problem!


----------



## solsamurai

Ok so who can tell us how 1920x1080 gaming looks on these?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> Ok so who can tell us how 1920x1080 gaming looks on these?


Me! Actually when I first got my monitor I decided to test out some BF3, so I did. My first impression I thought it looked pretty good. Then I went to the settings only to see that was 1080p, then flipped it to 1440p and my mind was blown









Also just had my first scare, turned on my rig and my monitor only for it to display a bunch of wacky lines. I turned the monitor off then on then they were gone. Phew


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Me! Actually when I first got my monitor I decided to test out some BF3, so I did. My first impression I thought it looked pretty good. Then I went to the settings only to see that was 1080p, then flipped it to 1440p and my mind was blown
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also just had my first scare, turned on my rig and my monitor only for it to display a bunch of wacky lines. I turned the monitor off then on then they were gone. Phew


Good to know, thanks!







My 6850 thanks you too.


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> For those that have the hum/buzz, it really is a simple fix. My 2B had a loud buzz, just popped the panel out and the PCB cover off. Applied a couple layers thick of double-stick tape on top of the two chokes labeled "220" and the monitor is silent now.


Is there any guide to opening the monitor? Need to fix hum as well.


----------



## bukkit

there's a guide in the first post, look for stand removal if you didn't see it already. i'll be doing that today.


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Yeah I missed that as I thought it was just for removing the stand at first. Another issue is finding a reasonably priced stand in UK. The ergotrons for 27" are over £100. Have been searching thread but no-one has confirmed if the smaller neoflex works on the monitor.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Anyone with a DSLR and an OC model out there willing to do the community a favor? Shoot me a PM please!

Cheers!


----------



## antcuc

Hi guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on this monitor but I can't seem to figure out which one of greensum and bigclothcrafts monitors are Matte. For my work I need a monitor without gloss.

Can anyone help? Thanks in advanced.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antcuc*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm about to pull the trigger on this monitor but I can't seem to figure out which one of greensum and bigclothcrafts monitors are Matte. For my work I need a monitor without gloss.
> Can anyone help? Thanks in advanced.


The antiglare models are being sold with no significant markings to separate them from the gloss ones, if they're still being sold at all. People have been receiving them at random. If I'm correct you can buy large sheets of adhesive antiglare material to cut out and slap it on the monitor.


----------



## antcuc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> The antiglare models are being sold with no significant markings to separate them from the gloss ones, if they're still being sold at all. People have been receiving them at random. If I'm correct you can buy large sheets of adhesive antiglare material to cut out and slap it on the monitor.


=(

Thanks for your help. What to do what to do...

I contacted the sellers, hopefully they answer...in English.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antcuc*
> 
> =(
> Thanks for your help. What to do what to do...
> I contacted the sellers, hopefully they answer...in English.


Bigclothcraft is probably your best bet for good replies. Everytime I contacted him he responded within a couple minutes. Greensum took a while longer but still good help.


----------



## corhen

mine just arrived....

First thought: the stand is REALLY dubious, need to replace it pronto, it wiggles from just tapping the desk

Second thoughts.. Oh.. My.. Gord. the colors are much better than my previous monitor, there are no dead pixles (bought standard) it is MASSIVE, Cant praise this monitor highly enough!


----------



## dougcbj

I just put in a purchase for one from bigclothcraft, I'm hoping for the best. I don't have a ton of money, so what little extra I had, I saved for this monitor, got the warranty as well so I just have to hope that I don't get a bad monitor, but since I usually have things go wrong, I'm thinking I'll have 5 dead pixels some backlight bleeding, and some bad color uniformity.


----------



## corhen

Now Now Now, im sure you will only have 4 Dead pixles!

Just noticed, Page 400!


----------



## Demented

Hey Catleap owners! After having this monitor since early March, I've finally come across a pretty serious issue.

Left 4 Dead will not load. I can hear it loading, but nothing is on the screen. When I wiggle my mouse, images appear for a second, and then go away, all the while the sound is playing as if nothing is wrong. When the image appears, it's skewed, and has horrible scan lines/broken colored lines all through it. I have tried setting my resolution to 1920x1080, and 1600x900 with the same results.

So far, this is only with Left 4 Dead. Left 4 dead 2 plays fine, as well as Portal, so I'm thinking it's not a Source related issue.

Any ideas?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Hey Catleap owners! After having this monitor since early March, I've finally come across a pretty serious issue.
> Left 4 Dead will not load. I can hear it loading, but nothing is on the screen. When I wiggle my mouse, images appear for a second, and then go away, all the while the sound is playing as if nothing is wrong. When the image appears, it's skewed, and has horrible scan lines/broken colored lines all through it. I have tried setting my resolution to 1920x1080, and 1600x900 with the same results.
> So far, this is only with Left 4 Dead. Left 4 dead 2 plays fine, as well as Portal, so I'm thinking it's not a Source related issue.
> Any ideas?


I had the same issue first time I tried out CS:S, restarted the game, and it was fine.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I had the same issue first time I tried out CS:S, restarted the game, and it was fine.


I've tried restarting, and reinstalling, and no luck. I might try rolling back to 12.3 drivers though.


----------



## bukkit

here's a bad picture of my catleap and my ergotron mx stand. if you look in the back enough, you can see my old monitor and why this desk is no good for the catleap. i'll be taking a new, better picture this weekend once my desk gets here, im sitting too close for comfort right now lol.


----------



## dougcbj

I'm dumb, first thing I thought when I saw your picture is that you messed that panel up badly.


----------



## ArchLinuxFTW

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bukkit*


I thought for a second that you had smashed the glass on your catleap....but then I noticed that it was part of the background.


----------



## bukkit

haha, i picked that wallpaper because broken glass is one of my favorite songs by the gathering. i have the version with no glass or speakers.


----------



## corhen

that mount.. its so sexy.. so sleek, and perfect.. and so expensive!

i, too, mistook that for a shattered panel!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Hey Catleap owners! After having this monitor since early March, I've finally come across a pretty serious issue.
> Left 4 Dead will not load. I can hear it loading, but nothing is on the screen. When I wiggle my mouse, images appear for a second, and then go away, all the while the sound is playing as if nothing is wrong. When the image appears, it's skewed, and has horrible scan lines/broken colored lines all through it. I have tried setting my resolution to 1920x1080, and 1600x900 with the same results.
> So far, this is only with Left 4 Dead. Left 4 dead 2 plays fine, as well as Portal, so I'm thinking it's not a Source related issue.
> Any ideas?


Have you OC'd the panel at all? Or is it running stock at 60hz? What was the resolution set in game prior to you using the Cat? Some games hold their res settings and that could be a problem for you - or it could be defaulting to a low res which the Cat won't like since there is no scaler. Try running it with another monitor - setting the res to the Cat's res - then hook the Cat up. Post back!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Have you OC'd the panel at all? Or is it running stock at 60hz? What was the resolution set in game prior to you using the Cat? Some games hold their res settings and that could be a problem for you - or it could be defaulting to a low res which the Cat won't like since there is no scaler. Try running it with another monitor - setting the res to the Cat's res - then hook the Cat up. Post back!


Not overclocked, and I believe the game had just been installed, but not played at all. I started playing it the other night at work, on my laptop. The only other monitor I have is a Dell 2312, max res of 1920x1080. I might try that in a little while. I might also try switching to my HDTV instead.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Have you OC'd the panel at all? Or is it running stock at 60hz? What was the resolution set in game prior to you using the Cat? Some games hold their res settings and that could be a problem for you - or it could be defaulting to a low res which the Cat won't like since there is no scaler. *Try running it with another monitor - setting the res to the Cat's res - then hook the Cat up. Post back!*


That could be easier said than done lol.

Might be possible to edit the config file for the game before you start and set resolution to 2560 x 1440


----------



## Demented

Well, switched over to just my HDTV, it was trying to load at 640x480 4:3, which the Catleap can't do. So set it to 1920x1080, switched back to the Catleap, it loaded, and I set it to 2560x1440! Yeah!










Thanks Scribby!


----------



## donccc

Hi,

I am trying to connect my Mid-2009 Macbook Pro to my new YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor. I am not having a lot of luck. I have taken this as fas as I can, and would love some help.

My machine:
OS: Mac OS X Lion 10.7.4 (11E53)
Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB
Processor: 2.53 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo

I am trying to connect it using the:

Apple Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter + DVD-D HDMI cable

Here is what is happening.

1. I connect the Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter + HDMI Cable to Monitor
2. Main monitor powers up like it is trying to display (it is a solid green)
3. Laptop Monitor displays second part of desktop
4. I can never get the Yamakasi to display a picture

Here is what I have tried:
1. Different HDMI-D cables
2. ATLONA AT-DP400 Dual Link DVI to Mini Display Port Converter - Altona support told me it wouldn't work
3. Zapping the P-Ram
4. Powering monitor with laptop closed
5. Forcing the system to see the second monitor

The nearest I can figure:
- The laptop does see the catsleap (it displays resolutions I can set it to)

I am completely stumped, I was hoping someone could advise me. I have yet to open up the monitor, I was hoping to avoid that.

Much thanks,

Don


----------



## mboner1

g'day everybody!!! have read through 200 pages in the last day lol, so not totally up to date but getting there, have there been any significant changes in the last 200 pages? lol, i will be reading them but yeah, looking at getting this monitor in 2 days , think im gonna go with tempered se version, i actually just bought my first ips a few days ago before finding this thread and was very happy with it, now im thinking i should sell it and grab this, the one i have was meant to be a steal its a AOC i2352VH ips panel, im assuming this yamakasi catleap would smash it in every way possible tho??? cheers ppl.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

I've ordered my Catleap from BigClothCraft on Friday the 18th. Still haven't gotten a shipping number. Is this normal?


----------



## eternal7trance

Do not buy from dcsamsungmall, if anything goes wrong with your monitor, he will give you the runaround and nothing will get resolved.


----------



## mott555

Just purchased one of these off eBay, now just to wait. I hope it's worth it. This will probably stress my GTX 460, but at least all I really play these days is Minecraft.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donccc*
> 
> Hi,
> I am trying to connect my Mid-2009 Macbook Pro to my new YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor. I am not having a lot of luck. I have taken this as fas as I can, and would love some help.
> My machine:
> OS: Mac OS X Lion 10.7.4 (11E53)
> Graphics Card: NVIDIA GeForce 9400M 256 MB
> Processor: 2.53 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo
> I am trying to connect it using the:
> Apple Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter + DVD-D HDMI cable
> Here is what is happening.
> 1. I connect the Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter + HDMI Cable to Monitor
> 2. Main monitor powers up like it is trying to display (it is a solid green)
> 3. Laptop Monitor displays second part of desktop
> 4. I can never get the Yamakasi to display a picture
> Here is what I have tried:
> 1. Different HDMI-D cables
> 2. ATLONA AT-DP400 Dual Link DVI to Mini Display Port Converter - Altona support told me it wouldn't work
> 3. Zapping the P-Ram
> 4. Powering monitor with laptop closed
> 5. Forcing the system to see the second monitor
> The nearest I can figure:
> - The laptop does see the catsleap (it displays resolutions I can set it to)
> I am completely stumped, I was hoping someone could advise me. I have yet to open up the monitor, I was hoping to avoid that.
> Much thanks,
> Don


Definitely before opening up the Cat - try hooking it up to a known good system to make sure it is working. If it is, then it is down to your mac and/or the DVI adapter (my gut says it's the adapter, only because adding anything in the signal path can be a pain with these.) Try your monitor on another system - then post back - we will need to work some other steps. Off the top of my head I would say if you have access to another computer that has a GPU with display port - try your adapter on that computer. So connect the Cat via DVI on that card - works? Great. Connect it on that card via DP - adapter - works? If possible take the mac out of the equation and step through it that way.


----------



## un-nefer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Not overclocked, and I believe the game had just been installed, but not played at all. I started playing it the other night at work, on my laptop. The only other monitor I have is a Dell 2312, max res of 1920x1080. I might try that in a little while. I might also try switching to my HDTV instead.


Open up the AMD CCC and enable GPU scaling. Then go to your L4D config folder and make sure any config present does not have the wrong monitor width and refreshrate set.


----------



## bukkit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*
> 
> I've ordered my Catleap from BigClothCraft on Friday the 18th. Still haven't gotten a shipping number. Is this normal?


that doesn't seem normal to me, i ordered mine on the 8th and i received it on the 10th. try to message him.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raptor_Jesus*
> 
> I've ordered my Catleap from BigClothCraft on Friday the 18th. Still haven't gotten a shipping number. Is this normal?


When I ordered of BigClothCraft, I had many emails from him the first two days. Tracking number was in my eBay beside the monitor (where you give feedback).

Contact him.


----------



## Br0wNb0y

Guys I really want to buy this monitor but I have an Radeon 5870 Eyefinity 6 with all mini displayports.

I started a thread but didn't really get much input here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1255506/radeon-5870-eyefinity-6-with-catleap-q270-achieva-shimian-qh270-pcbank-3view-pb2700

I searched this thread and got some feedback about the eyefinity 6 card needing a active adapter but people were still unsure. I don't care if the BIOS doesn't show and I won't be using eyefinity either.

Has anyone been able to get this monitor to work with a 5870 Eyefinity 6? If so, did you need a active displayport adapter?

Thanks


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Br0wNb0y*
> 
> Guys I really want to buy this monitor but I have an Radeon 5870 Eyefinity 6 with all mini displayports.
> I started a thread but didn't really get much input here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1255506/radeon-5870-eyefinity-6-with-catleap-q270-achieva-shimian-qh270-pcbank-3view-pb2700
> I searched this thread and got some feedback about the eyefinity 6 card needing a active adapter but people were still unsure. I don't care if the BIOS doesn't show and I won't be using eyefinity either.
> Has anyone been able to get this monitor to work with a 5870 Eyefinity 6? If so, did you need a active displayport adapter?
> Thanks


Well, first of all this is the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor club, so your in the wrong thread. Anyways, you need a mini DP to DVI-D adapter and a DVI-D cable. That's it. Thing is, most sellers have a picture which shows what cards work and what don't. Your card isn't compatable.


----------



## Br0wNb0y

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> Well, first of all this is the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor club, so your in the wrong thread. Anyways, you need a mini DP to DVI-D adapter and a DVI-D cable. That's it. Thing is, most sellers have a picture which shows what cards work and what don't. Your card isn't compatable.


Woops didn't realize it was the club thread. Sorry about that.

Yeah I guess I'll just have to wait until I upgrade the card since I see no point in buying an adapter. Thanks though.


----------



## mboner1

Anyone know about my question? Cheers. Gotta make a decision soon.


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testicles*
> 
> Anyone know about my question? Cheers. Gotta make a decision soon.


I moved from a 1920x1200 24" monitor and this smashes it, I doubt you'd find a compelling reason to keep that 23". Unless you need something specific it provides that is superior like colour accuracy or speed.


----------



## mboner1

Low post count hurting me huh?


----------



## burksdb

for those who bought from green-sum how long did it take to get your monitor?


----------



## mboner1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> I moved from a 1920x1200 24" monitor and this smashes it, I doubt you'd find a compelling reason to keep that 23". Unless you need something specific it provides that is superior like colour accuracy or speed.


Fine, I will buy it lol, pay for it Saturday, hopefully receive it by Thursday or something, will let ya's know my story lol. Is the dcsamsung dude still the fastest and best to buy from?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testicles*
> 
> Fine, I will buy it lol, pay for it Saturday, hopefully receive it by Thursday or something, will let ya's know my story lol. Is the dcsamsung dude still the fastest and best to buy from?


I dont think so, few people having problems with returning DOA monitors.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3990_30#post_17307525


----------



## mboner1

who has been the most reliable of late? i got a i52400k with pro3 gen3 mobo, and only gtx 560 1gb, plus 8gb ddr3 ram, am i gonna be able to even play games at that high res? sli is not a option obviously cos of my mobo. i dont want to upgrade then be stuck playing in 720p, kinda defeats the purpose...


----------



## passlogin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *testicles*
> 
> who has been the most reliable of late? i got a i52400k with pro3 gen3 mobo, and only gtx 560 1gb, plus 8gb ddr3 ram, am i gonna be able to even play games at that high res? sli is not a option obviously cos of my mobo. i dont want to upgrade then be stuck playing in 720p, kinda defeats the purpose...


depends on a game, something crappy that was coded for console like mw3 will play just fine, but if you want to play a real pc game like crysis or something like that, you are definitely going to need a top end video card or sli


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Just remembered to look for backlight issues and here are results:

http://www.imagebam.com/image/712a3e191814723

Pretty bad eh? Looks like I'll have to try and send it back a second time, first was yellowing on corner. These are meant to be perfect pixel checked displays.


----------



## quakermaas

I dont think you will get much better

Perfect pixel has nothing to do with backlight bleed, camera makes it look much worse than what is looks like to the human eye


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

That is pretty standard to be honest. Maybe a bit more than others, but with normal viewing I don't notice bleed that much. Just my opinion and I have four of these. If it is bad with normal viewing, then try adjusting the brightness a tad. Keep in mind when you run these tests you may find things that don't show up under normal conditions. On one of mine I never did any of the tests, just added the calibration then decided one day to check for dead pixels - found one - one I would have never known was there if I didn't go looking for it (1 in 3 million + pixels.)

EDIT: Remember perfect pixel doesn't guarantee a perfect monitor - not even one without dead pixels. Korean law allows for up to 15 dead before it is considered defective or not perfect. In addition, the check can (and has) missed dead pixels in the past. As far as I understand it, this pixel check does not cover backlight bleed as that is just normal for these panels.


----------



## theshape

I got my first dead or maybe stuck pixel today. It's on the top right. Stays black all times. It was not there when I first got the monitor about 3 weeks ago. Sigh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> Just remembered to look for backlight issues and here are results:
> http://www.imagebam.com/image/712a3e191814723
> Pretty bad eh? Looks like I'll have to try and send it back a second time, first was yellowing on corner. These are meant to be perfect pixel checked displays.


The one on the bottom right is pretty bad to me. I just have some bleed on the top right. Right where I now got the dead/stuck pixel.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Man i was almost pretty set on getting one of these monitors for there amazing price, but the number of post i see with dead pixels is making me second guess my self.. i have ocd when it comes to screens and tvs and knowing a dead pixel is there would really bother me, reach really sucks because there beautiful monitors and the price is amazing, but im starting to think the price premium on the U2711 and U3011 are abit better knowing everything will be 100%.. tough decision


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Man i was almost pretty set on getting one of these monitors for there amazing price, but the number of post i see with dead pixels is making me second guess my self.. i have ocd when it comes to screens and tvs and knowing a dead pixel is there would really bother me, reach really sucks because there beautiful monitors and the price is amazing, but im starting to think the price premium on the U2711 and U3011 are abit better knowing everything will be 100%.. tough decision


I feel the same way. Once I notice the one pixel or light bleed it's over.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> I feel the same way. Once I notice the one pixel or light bleed it's over.


are you going to contact seller for exchange?


----------



## rolfathan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Man i was almost pretty set on getting one of these monitors for there amazing price, but the number of post i see with dead pixels is making me second guess my self.. i have ocd when it comes to screens and tvs and knowing a dead pixel is there would really bother me, reach really sucks because there beautiful monitors and the price is amazing, but im starting to think the price premium on the U2711 and U3011 are abit better knowing everything will be 100%.. tough decision


I know this is the Catleap thread, but I was in the same boat as you and am now leaning towards Auria from Microcenter. http://www.overclock.net/t/1257538/microcenter-now-carrying-the-27-2560x1440-korean-ips-monitors

So far I've seen no complaints from people who purchased them.

Yes, if you can get to one of these stores it brings you into the $400 price-range ($450 with extended warranty) but honestly, I kept seeing people spending extra money on pixel-perfect which put them at $350 and while zero dead pixels is nice the bleed would drive me NUTS.

So if you look at it as Korean IPS = $300. Zero dead pixels +$50. Better lighting +$50. And you get the benefit if it being in the U.S. already. =/


----------



## SammichThyme

I'm considering ditching my eyefinity setup for one of these, especially now that the prices are so low. Will the $50 3 year warranty be worth it? Or is just a scam?


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Man i was almost pretty set on getting one of these monitors for there amazing price, but the number of post i see with dead pixels is making me second guess my self.. i have ocd when it comes to screens and tvs and knowing a dead pixel is there would really bother me, reach really sucks because there beautiful monitors and the price is amazing, but im starting to think the price premium on the U2711 and U3011 are abit better knowing everything will be 100%.. tough decision


uh it's not 100%, there are standards for dead pixels and LCD manufacturers allow them as long as there's not too many in certain areas of the screen. you can't RMA that, it's policy. of course you can just return it, paying that extra restocking fee tho


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I'm considering ditching my eyefinity setup for one of these, especially now that the prices are so low. Will the $50 3 year warranty be worth it? Or is just a scam?


Also, is a "perfect pixel zero dead pixel" (Quoting the manufacturer) actually going to help me? Or is just a way to get yet another $50 from you?


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> are you going to contact seller for exchange?


Sorry for the misleading post. I'm in the same boat as you. Really thinking about getting one of these but not so sure seeing all the issue others have had.


----------



## antonbrk

Catleap Q270 SE arrived this morning (Winnipeg, Canada) via DHL. This was the 319.90 version without perfect pixel. No dead/stuck pixels. Left vs right side illumination was completely even. No discernable backlight bleeding. Impressive screen, to say the least.

Used the supplied DVI cable and power brick, with my own power cable connecting the brick to power outlet. The shipping box did not arrive in bubble-wrap as it apparently has for some. That added a little bit of anxiety. Unboxed it, hooked up DVI and power cables, crossed my fingers, drum roll... 2560 x 1440 of loveliness appeared. Displayed at the correct resolution right away (graphics card is a GTX 460).

Ordered from green-sum on May 14, arrived in Winnipeg 7 days later. Only extra charge was $32 (Cdn taxes) paid to DHL delivery person. Final cost (in USD) was 319.90 + 32 = $352.

Thank-you to everyone who contributed to this thread, especially club founder, Scribby.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> uh it's not 100%, there are standards for dead pixels and LCD manufacturers allow them as long as there's not too many in certain areas of the screen. you can't RMA that, it's policy. of course you can just return it, paying that extra restocking fee tho


I already ordered a dell u3011 before (had to sell because or money trouble), either way the monitor came perfect with no problems, such an amazing screen, I run a dell monitor thread on ocn and not one person has complained about bleeding backlight or dead or stuck pixels


----------



## solsamurai

Wow that's way beyond my future budget, lol.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

My opinion is not to go looking for dead pixels to be honest. The chances of you noticing one without running the screen tests are pretty slim. I have four of these - three are perfect - one has one dead pixel that I found today because I was an idiot and said "what the heck - let's see if this one is perfect too." I would have NEVER noticed that darn pixel -- EVER (wait is darn a curse word here on OCN?). Now I know it is there. Luckily it's location makes me have to go hunting for it to see it in everyday use.

And to the point about perfect Dells, Apples, etc - they aren't either. Even A+ panels can have a dead or stuck pixel - they just weren't caught at the factory. Even then, like was stated above this is a return and replace issue - not an RMA defective panel issue unless it is over the company's pixel policy.


----------



## solsamurai

That's a good point about don't go hunting for them. I just remembered while reading the post that my current monitor at home has one that I completely forgot about until now. I just hope that next year when I get a new monitor I don't notice one in a bad spot 6 months later.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antonbrk*
> 
> Catleap Q270 SE arrived this morning (Winnipeg, Canada) via DHL. This was the 319.90 version without perfect pixel. No dead/stuck pixels. Left vs right side illumination was completely even. No discernable backlight bleeding. Impressive screen, to say the least.
> Used the supplied DVI cable and power brick, with my own power cable connecting the brick to power outlet. The shipping box did not arrive in bubble-wrap as it apparently has for some. That added a little bit of anxiety. Unboxed it, hooked up DVI and power cables, crossed my fingers, drum roll... 2560 x 1440 of loveliness appeared. Displayed at the correct resolution right away (graphics card is a GTX 460).
> Ordered from green-sum on May 14, arrived in Winnipeg 7 days later. Only extra charge was $32 (Cdn taxes) paid to DHL delivery person. Final cost (in USD) was 319.90 + 32 = $352.
> 
> Thank-you to everyone who contributed to this thread, especially club founder, Scribby.


Glad to hear everything went well. I wonder if USA residents are charged an extra fee. I will be ordering my catleap after I can get my hands on a gtx 680 ftw


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Glad to hear everything went well. I wonder if USA residents are charged an extra fee. I will be ordering my catleap after I can get my hands on a gtx 680 ftw


No fees to the US.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> My opinion is not to go looking for dead pixels to be honest. The chances of you noticing one without running the screen tests are pretty slim. I have four of these - three are perfect - one has one dead pixel that I found today because I was an idiot and said "what the heck - let's see if this one is perfect too." I would have NEVER noticed that darn pixel -- EVER (wait is darn a curse word here on OCN?). Now I know it is there. Luckily it's location makes me have to go hunting for it to see it in everyday use.
> 
> And to the point about perfect Dells, Apples, etc - they aren't either. Even A+ panels can have a dead or stuck pixel - they just weren't caught at the factory. Even then, like was stated above this is a return and replace issue - not an RMA defective panel issue unless it is over the company's pixel policy.


I always have to hunt for visual problems on my screens. It's a disease! I must know the quality of all pixels LOL. I actually have three 2B catleap's that are all pixel perfect but have other anomalies. Two have tiny hair's stuck under the gloss layer and one has the very hard-to-see colored speckle's on the right hand side.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> I always have to hunt for visual problems on my screens. It's a disease! I must know the quality of all pixels LOL. I actually have three 2B catleap's that are all pixel perfect but have other anomalies. Two have tiny hair's stuck under the gloss layer and one has the very hard-to-see colored speckle's on the right hand side.


I am just as bad. I thought I could handle not knowing if there was anything wrong with my fourth monitor. Lies. I ran the darn programs and found one. Oh well, these things are just so sexy.


----------



## quakermaas

Here is my monitor, have it about two weeks now, I ordered a pixel perfect from BigClothCraft and that is what I got ( no dead or stuck pixels)

There does seem to be some IPS glow at the bottom left and right, but it all depends at what high I am sitting at to see it.

Over all, I am very very satisfied with the monitor.

Box had been opened and had this sticker on it (don't know if it was factory checked or BigClothCraft checked it)



With complete darkness in the room, and screen at full brightness



Now when I put the flash on, it gives a picture close to what my eyes really see with the backlight bleed

(It is only really possible to notice the bleed when the screen is set to full black)


----------



## mboner1

well i am soft. bailing on the idea for now. to many risks for me.

- chance of dead/ stuck pixels
_chance of dust on tempered glass (which is what i would get)
_crappy stand
_no osd (and picture quality drives me nuts, i need to tweak EVERYTHING)
_power supply issues
_brightness uniformity issues
_chance of a monitor that simply doesnt work as some have reported
_150 dollar return fee
_no idea how long these monitors will last
_extra for extra outputs/ speakers

some of these issues dont affect everyone, but a couple of them seem to have affected nearly everyone that has checked, and i would check, think the 190 more for the official monitor might be the way to go. thanks to everyone for all the info tho, it has helped me make a educated decision. cheers.


----------



## JKDC

You're soft and your nick is Testicles?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKDC*
> 
> You're soft and your nick is Testicles?


That's just too good.


----------



## Yardie

Hi

I have a huge favour to ask any one who's happy to open up their Catleap... I'm going to be buying one of these (the Multi, Pixel Perfect version) then fitting it into a custom housing that I'm designing myself but I need a bit more info on the controller card before I commit to buying.

Primarily, I'm looking for the dimensions of the AD card (controller card) PCB assembly and component heights. (PCB dimms, mount hole positions, etc. etc. and, most importantly, component heights/full PCB assembly height) I'm trying to squeeze it into a fairly thin cavity so this is the make or break for me. If while you're at it you could snap a few photos of it from all angles to post here too that would be awesome.

The photos on the first page make it look like the power input is the tallest component?

I understand from previous posts that if I order now I'm likely to get the 2C version (iDP interconnect) so if you're an owner of the 2C version I'm hugely grateful for any help.

It's a big ask - thank you so anyone who can help.


----------



## MrSvahn

Are there any big differences between the Shimian and the Catleap? Price is almost same (catleap is 5$ more) but i think it looks better than the Shimian. Both of them seem to be unstable (true or false?) but are the components the same?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yardie*
> 
> Hi
> I have a huge favour to ask any one who's happy to open up their Catleap... I'm going to be buying one of these (the Multi, Pixel Perfect version) then fitting it into a custom housing that I'm designing myself but I need a bit more info on the controller card before I commit to buying.
> Primarily, I'm looking for the dimensions of the AD card (controller card) PCB assembly and component heights. (PCB dimms, mount hole positions, etc. etc. and, most importantly, component heights/full PCB assembly height) I'm trying to squeeze it into a fairly thin cavity so this is the make or break for me. If while you're at it you could snap a few photos of it from all angles to post here too that would be awesome.
> The photos on the first page make it look like the power input is the tallest component?
> I understand from previous posts that if I order now I'm likely to get the 2C version (iDP interconnect) so if you're an owner of the 2C version I'm hugely grateful for any help.
> It's a big ask - thank you so anyone who can help.


I don't think you will get anybody willing to go that far.

If you look at the first post, under Stand Removal and OC vs NON-OC monitors there is plenty of clear pictures of the internals


----------



## Yardie

That's true... it's a big ask.

I looked at the images on the first page which are great, but none give an idea of the component heights unfortunately


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Yardie*
> 
> That's true... it's a big ask.
> I looked at the images on the first page which are great, but none give an idea of the component heights unfortunately


Sorry mate I won't do it. That is a ton of work. If you ordered one last night it would be in your possession by next week! So don't wait, just get one. Right now, the manufacturer is on to 2E models - it's just a month thing not a component thing. Although the PCBs are slightly different from month to month. The multis might be in a lower alpha group since the don't sell as well as the regular versions.


----------



## poormanq45

Just received my Catleap.

It arrived in perfect condition.

Ordered it monday, shipped tuesday, arrived Wednesday.

I checked for dead pixels, there are none.

I ordered the standard panel without Perfect Pixel. Oddly though, they sent me the panel with speakers.

I would highly recommend this monitor.

I ordered it for $318 with free FedEx EMS

Odd thing, my DVI cables didn't work. They were working perfectly with my pair of u2410s. I'm thinking the issue may be that they are 10ft.

The included 6ft cable works perfectly.


----------



## mott555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poormanq45*
> 
> Just received my Catleap.
> 
> It arrived in perfect condition.
> 
> Ordered it monday, shipped tuesday, arrived Wednesday.
> 
> I checked for dead pixels, there are none.
> 
> I ordered the standard panel without Perfect Pixel. Oddly though, they sent me the panel with speakers.
> 
> I would highly recommend this monitor.
> 
> I ordered it for $318 with free FedEx EMS
> 
> Odd thing, my DVI cables didn't work. They were working perfectly with my pair of u2410s. I'm thinking the issue may be that they are 10ft.
> 
> The included 6ft cable works perfectly.


I believe your DVI cable has to be dual-link to work. The included one is DL.


----------



## poormanq45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mott555*
> 
> I believe your DVI cable has to be dual-link to work. The included one is DL.


They are indeed Dual-link. All the pins are there.

Just kind of annoying as I like having the extra length of cable to be able to organize and tuck them.


----------



## Kimo

Poorman, who did you buy the monitor from? I'm debating on vendors.


----------



## poormanq45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Poorman, who did you buy the monitor from? I'm debating on vendors.


Item number: 150808035022


----------



## poormanq45

Where can I find the driver for the Catleap? There are a bunch of videos referencing it, but no links.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poormanq45*
> 
> They are indeed Dual-link. All the pins are there.
> Just kind of annoying as I like having the extra length of cable to be able to organize and tuck them.


10ft + cables work fine on these monitors. It could be that they weren't that great quality-wise? No idea. I run 24 gauge cables for my Cats all 10ft lengths with no issues. Monoprice has them for a decent price.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poormanq45*
> 
> Where can I find the driver for the Catleap? There are a bunch of videos referencing it, but no links.


There is no driver. What are you looking for?


----------



## poormanq45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> There is no driver. What are you looking for?







He is installing a specific driver.

Right now mine is installed as PnP.

*edit* Oops, found it, it was in the description:
https://hotfile.com/dl/152753764/c3245b2/OC_Guide.zip.html


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

That driver is only if you are trying to hit 120hz with a 600 series GPU. All regular Cats do not require any type of driver or GPU programs to operate perfectly.


----------



## MrSvahn

I would really appreciate if someone could tell me if there are any big differences between the catleap and the shimian. I am ordering one tonight (within 3 hours) so i really need to know which one to get. I think that the catleap looks better but i've heard that the stand is unstable. :/ Although people say that the shimian is not so very stable either...


----------



## SammichThyme

I messaged green_sum about where I can get 2b monitors and he replied that they're starting to make them again soon due to a large demand. Message him on eBay to be put on the notification list.


----------



## plum

Hard to get myself to buy this monitor, the price is good but flaws such as yellow tint (or brighter spots) just kill the deal. Whole point of IPS is to get accurate colors, so that defeats the point of getting one..


----------



## fstop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Hard to get myself to buy this monitor, the price is good but flaws such as yellow tint (or brighter spots) just kill the deal. Whole point of IPS is to get accurate colors, so that defeats the point of getting one..


Get a 2b. Color representation is better, although it still falls victim to back lit bleeding. That doesn't bother me at all though.


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boxster123*
> 
> I ordered the New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Monitor *Perfect Pixel from green-sum on Monday afternoon. I got it on Thursday afternoon. I am from Toronto, Canada. He put the monitor at $150 usd and I got charge $20 tax & $10 broker fee.
> However, I am extremely happy with the purchase, I did get a pixel perfect monitor. Not even a dead pixel or stuck pixel. The extra $55 is worth it for me. Now I am waiting for the 2b model to come back and I will probably pick up another one to complete my setup. Gotta push my new GTX 670.


you only paid that much!? hes got it up now for $300+!

and whats the big deal between the normal q270 se vs the pixel perfect?


----------



## corhen

i purchessed a monitor from dcsamsungmall for the simple reason that when i asked about his return policy, he said in the ebay email system that he will pay for return shipping. I have that on file, if it breaks and he dosnt want to pay, ill contact ebay/paypal and get my money back!

But he shipped it well packaged, and it arrived with zero dead pixels and no noticeable back light problems

he means that on the import form he said that the monitor was worth 150 dollars instead of 300, meaning he only payed 1/2 import fees!

Please use the edit button instead of double posting.


----------



## myst88

Because this monitor has no OSD does that hurt it in terms of color representation or do the profiles toasty provided more or less solve that problem?

Also I vaguely remember reading here a few weeks back that by not having an OSD these monitors will revert to their default settings when you load into a game? Is this true and if so can that be fixed/changed by using the above mentioned profiles? If not that kind of sucks!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corhen*
> 
> i purchessed a monitor from dcsamsungmall for the simple reason that when i asked about his return policy, he said in the ebay email system that he will pay for return shipping. I have that on file, if it breaks and he dosnt want to pay, ill contact ebay/paypal and get my money back!
> But he shipped it well packaged, and it arrived with zero dead pixels and no noticeable back light problems
> he means that on the import form he said that the monitor was worth 150 dollars instead of 300, meaning he only payed 1/2 import fees!
> Please use the edit button instead of double posting.


\

I bought a monitor that broke from that guy. He won't work with you and you will end up having to ship it back on your dime if it breaks. He won't do a dang thing about it and ebay will want to you ship it back for a refund which costs almost as much as the monitor itself.


----------



## kylerstrawn

HELP~~!!!!

Just got mine today. Hooked it up... ran for about 5 minutes... then BAM!!!

The screen goes to black... 10 seconds later it turns back on.... 10 seconds later it turns back off... then on.... then off... then on... etc...

the little green light on the power brick stays on the entire time... the indicator light on the actual monitor itself is green while on... then turns off when the screen goes off... then the indicator light goes red.... then the screen comes on and it turns green again...

its like the monitor is rebooting every 10 seconds.

any suggestions???

as you can imagine this is incredibly frustrating......

thank you in advance for you help.


----------



## mikailmohammed

YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE from green-sum on ebay. Has anyone gotten issues with theirs???? I would like to purchase 1 and want to know if he actually takes the monitor back if something is wrong with it.


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE from green-sum on ebay. Has anyone gotten issues with theirs???? I would like to purchase 1 and want to know if he actually takes the monitor back if something is wrong with it.


I've been lurking this thread for awhile and the general consensus is that green-sum is usually the best. Wait awhile though because he's re-releasing the 2b pcb models in limited quantities soon.


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> That's what's deterring me from the 120hz model. For $70 less I can get tempered glass and pixel perfect from green-sum, and probably a little less from somebody else.


i really want this monitor but so scared to buy it.lol i was looking at the dell UltraSharp U2412M 24" LED LCD Monitor..

i really want the 1440p resolution though.. I have been lurking around here as well looking at reviews.

i see bigclothcraft has it for a cheaper price than green-sum and tests the monitors before he sends them out so i most likely will buy from him when my mind allows me to. LOL!!!!


----------



## corhen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> \
> I bought a monitor that broke from that guy. He won't work with you and you will end up having to ship it back on your dime if it breaks. He won't do a dang thing about it and ebay will want to you ship it back for a refund which costs almost as much as the monitor itself.


Basicly, i have him on record saying that he WILL pay the shipment costs if it breaks.. and if it does, and he doesn't, ill just contact Paypal, cause he renegged on his part of the contract!


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE from green-sum on ebay. Has anyone gotten issues with theirs???? I would like to purchase 1 and want to know if he actually takes the monitor back if something is wrong with it.


i bought one from green-sum waiting to get it, i will update when i receive mine.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corhen*
> 
> Basicly, i have him on record saying that he WILL pay the shipment costs if it breaks.. and if it does, and he doesn't, ill just contact Paypal, cause he renegged on his part of the contract!


They won't care, they won't give you your money back unless you return the monitor. I already went through this and even to a supervisor, they won't budge unless I return it out of my pocket.


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burksdb*
> 
> i bought one from green-sum waiting to get it, i will update when i receive mine.


Awesome, im considering getting one from green-sum as well.

and whats all this talk about osd?


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> Awesome, im considering getting one from green-sum as well.
> and whats all this talk about osd?


osd = on screen display

these monitors dont have an osd


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> They won't care, they won't give you your money back unless you return the monitor. I already went through this and even to a supervisor, they won't budge unless I return it out of my pocket.


Will the 3-year warranty that you can buy on eBay help?


----------



## CursiveQ

ordered from green sum on 5/23. It was marked as shipped on 5/24. I'm wishful that it'll come this week but I think more likely it'll show up next week.

He updated the tracking # on eBay but when i try to track it, DHL says there's no info. its been almost 24 hours


----------



## corhen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> They won't care, they won't give you your money back unless you return the monitor. I already went through this and even to a supervisor, they won't budge unless I return it out of my pocket.


If that's true, i will be truly dissapointed in Paypal. after all, they have put themselves in a position of being a mediator for disputes, and when one side breaks the contract they default on the terms. The terms of this contract are "you sell me a monitor, if it breaks, you pay shipping, in return, i pay X" If the seller defaults on these terms (such as not paying return shipping, then i should recive a full return!

If this happened recently to you, i would suggest contacting the Office of the President. You can often receive better service by doing that!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> Will the 3-year warranty that you can buy on eBay help?


i certenly hope so, as i purchessed that too, but you have to note that the warranty doesn't kick in until 45 days after purchess. if it breaks during this time period you are supposed to go through the reseller!


----------



## Kimo

Just pulled the trigger on a catleap from bigclothcraft

I bought the normal version and I will buy the square trade as well.

Life is about risk!


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on a catleap from bigclothcraft
> I bought the normal version and I will buy the square trade as well.
> Life is about risk!


NICE!! can't wait to get that money to buy one of them. tell me how the monitor turns out because i want to buy one from him as well.


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> ordered from green sum on 5/23. It was marked as shipped on 5/24. I'm wishful that it'll come this week but I think more likely it'll show up next week.
> He updated the tracking # on eBay but when i try to track it, DHL says there's no info. its been almost 24 hours


i bought mine from him on Sun (20th) and it didnt get picked up until Wen (23rd) so i'm hoping to get mine next week, but at this rate it's going to be the first of June when i see mine.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corhen*
> 
> If that's true, i will be truly dissapointed in Paypal. after all, they have put themselves in a position of being a mediator for disputes, and when one side breaks the contract they default on the terms. The terms of this contract are "you sell me a monitor, if it breaks, you pay shipping, in return, i pay X" If the seller defaults on these terms (such as not paying return shipping, then i should recive a full return!
> If this happened recently to you, i would suggest contacting the Office of the President. You can often receive better service by doing that!
> i certenly hope so, as i purchessed that too, but you have to note that the warranty doesn't kick in until 45 days after purchess. if it breaks during this time period you are supposed to go through the reseller!


It happened to me and I tried that too. They won't do it unless you return it.

Edit: Basically if you get this monitor and it breaks you are screwed and need to pay hundreds of dollars on shipping to send it back.


----------



## Yardie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Sorry mate I won't do it. That is a ton of work. If you ordered one last night it would be in your possession by next week! So don't wait, just get one. Right now, the manufacturer is on to 2E models - it's just a month thing not a component thing. Although the PCBs are slightly different from month to month. The multis might be in a lower alpha group since the don't sell as well as the regular versions.


Thanks anyway - took your advice and went ahead and ordered one - got the Hazro HZ27WC as I'm in the UK and need it asap (they said it would be with me today). I know this is the Catleap club, but if you're interested I'll post photos of the tear-down?


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burksdb*
> 
> i bought mine from him on Sun (20th) and it didnt get picked up until Wen (23rd) so i'm hoping to get mine next week, but at this rate it's going to be the first of June when i see mine.


did he mark it as shipped on monday? or he marked it as shipped on 23rd when it was actually picked up. i'm trying to figure out if he's just marking it as shipped when it didn't really ship yet


----------



## mikailmohammed

does the response time on these monitors affect gaming? I mostly play bf3 and some racing games and some rpg.

Will a GTX 670 push the resolution good enough? I don't care to use AA and stuff. At 1440p you wont need that anyway.


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> did he mark it as shipped on monday? or he marked it as shipped on 23rd when it was actually picked up. i'm trying to figure out if he's just marking it as shipped when it didn't really ship yet


marked it as shipped monday, but i woke up today with a message saying it was about 4 hours from my house. Looks like i will have it tomorrow if DHL delivers on Saturday, and if not then Monday. cant wait to check it out.


----------



## poormanq45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> That driver is only if you are trying to hit 120hz with a 600 series GPU. All regular Cats do not require any type of driver or GPU programs to operate perfectly.


Yes, i'd like to overclock this panel a little bit.


----------



## poormanq45

I am curious as to why you guys are ordering from Green-Sum so much.

His estimated arrival date is ~15 days.

I ordered from Pallascospi. He provides free 1~2 day FedEx Express.

My panel was ordered on Monday, shipped on Tuesday, arrived on Wednesday.

I accidentally ordered from Green-Sum. Two days after ordering, he hadn't shipped. I cancelled that order and went with the one I just mentioned.


----------



## poormanq45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> HELP~~!!!!
> Just got mine today. Hooked it up... ran for about 5 minutes... then BAM!!!
> The screen goes to black... 10 seconds later it turns back on.... 10 seconds later it turns back off... then on.... then off... then on... etc...
> the little green light on the power brick stays on the entire time... the indicator light on the actual monitor itself is green while on... then turns off when the screen goes off... then the indicator light goes red.... then the screen comes on and it turns green again...
> its like the monitor is rebooting every 10 seconds.
> any suggestions???
> as you can imagine this is incredibly frustrating......
> thank you in advance for you help.


Try a different cable. It sounds like the signal is being lost.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poormanq45*
> 
> Yes, i'd like to overclock this panel a little bit.


You have a 2B? If not, you don't need to do anything in that video (actually that really is only for AMD cards as nVidia cards can hit 100-120 with just manual timings modified.) If you have anything other than a 2B model you will be limited to 67hz (at best) and most likely only 65hz regardless of a red or green card. nVidia products are hands down better for these monitors when OCing. It isn't even close.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> HELP~~!!!!
> Just got mine today. Hooked it up... ran for about 5 minutes... then BAM!!!
> The screen goes to black... 10 seconds later it turns back on.... 10 seconds later it turns back off... then on.... then off... then on... etc...
> the little green light on the power brick stays on the entire time... the indicator light on the actual monitor itself is green while on... then turns off when the screen goes off... then the indicator light goes red.... then the screen comes on and it turns green again...
> its like the monitor is rebooting every 10 seconds.
> any suggestions???
> as you can imagine this is incredibly frustrating......
> thank you in advance for you help.


Check the voltage out of the power brick and your DVI cable. Either could be the culprit. Although running a test on mine with the DVI cable disconnected and power connected my monitor flashes green (like it's supposed to) indicating the ready state. The fact you are going from green, to flashing green, to red leads me to think this is more a power issue over a DVI issue.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poormanq45*
> 
> I am curious as to why you guys are ordering from Green-Sum so much.
> *His estimated arrival date is ~15 days.*
> I ordered from Pallascospi. He provides free 1~2 day FedEx Express.
> My panel was ordered on Monday, shipped on Tuesday, arrived on Wednesday.
> I accidentally ordered from Green-Sum. Two days after ordering, he hadn't shipped. I cancelled that order and went with the one I just mentioned.


Not sure where you see that but this is what I see with green-sum 
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> It happened to me and I tried that too. They won't do it unless you return it.
> Edit: Basically if you get this monitor and it breaks you are screwed and need to pay hundreds of dollars on shipping to send it back.


hmm where is it that I read that some seller pays returning shipping for when a situation like this arrives?


----------



## futr_vision

He's probably looking at the delivery section of the auction. Below was taken from a current auction for a Q270 green-sum is selling.

Delivery: Estimated between Wed. Jun. 13 and Tue. Jun. 26


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poormanq45*
> 
> I am curious as to why you guys are ordering from Green-Sum so much.
> His estimated arrival date is ~15 days.
> I ordered from Pallascospi. He provides free 1~2 day FedEx Express.
> My panel was ordered on Monday, shipped on Tuesday, arrived on Wednesday.
> I accidentally ordered from Green-Sum. Two days after ordering, he hadn't shipped. I cancelled that order and went with the one I just mentioned.


i've read from a lot of people that green-sum has super fast shipping, thats why i ordered from him. many members have also said that the eBay estimate is inaccurate and it usually comes within 2-3 days

Quote:


> i bought mine from him on Sun (20th) and it didnt get picked up until Wen (23rd) so i'm hoping to get mine next week, but at this rate it's going to be the first of June when i see mine.


that's awesome man! maybe by some miracle i can get mine tomorrow (saturday) too. but my tracking info still hasn't been updated so i doubt it.


----------



## mott555

My Catleap just came in today. I forgot who I bought from but it wasn't green-sum. It shipped from Korea to rural Missouri in just two days!

Got it all hooked up and everything works great. The stand is super wobbly but it'll work for me, and it also has a glossy screen (I detest glossy screens with every ounce of my soul). I didn't see any dead or stuck pixels, but I wasn't looking for them either. I did notice a greenish tint, but it took about thirty seconds in the NVIDIA Control Panel to correct. I just dropped the brightness on the green channel from the default 50% to 45% and it looks pretty good now.

Haven't had time to try gaming on it yet other than a few minutes of Minecraft. My usual Minecraft framerate is 80 - 100 fps, and it's that low because I have the water shader mod installed, without the mod I get 500+ fps easily. Now I only get 50 - 60 fps. I may be replacing my GPU later this year anyway.

I can't wait to do some programming on it. 2560 x 1440 should be epic for workstation use. The only problem now is that my secondary monitor (21.5" 1080p) looks absolutely tiny next to this thing. It bugs my OCD!

Thanks guys for running this thread and sharing this monitor. It's well worth it IMO.


----------



## Kimo

Anyone know if this stand will work for the catleap?

http://www.walmart.com/ip/V7-DS1S/17179805

This guy has it on his crossover

http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/3780


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mott555*
> 
> My Catleap just came in today. I forgot who I bought from but it wasn't green-sum. It shipped from Korea to rural Missouri in just two days!


How rural are we talking.. i'm in Nixa close to Springfield.
i got an updated message today saying it was in transit from Hazelwood, Mo it's only 4 hours away so it's deff coming soon.

edit* Got my monitor in and wow this thing is huge. Looks great, but i think my "blues" could use some adjustment they look off almost if there not as bright.

i did have some red pixels showing up, but i replaced the dvi cable and haven't had any issues with that.


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Anyone know if this stand will work for the catleap?
> http://www.walmart.com/ip/V7-DS1S/17179805
> This guy has it on his crossover
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/3780


dont see why it wouldnt, but you still have to take the monitor apart to remove the stand


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE from green-sum on ebay. Has anyone gotten issues with theirs???? I would like to purchase 1 and want to know if he actually takes the monitor back if something is wrong with it.


I Just got my catleap from green-sum yesterday.

I hooked it up... it ran fine for about 5 minutes... then the screen shut off... complete black... 10 seconds later it turns back on.... 10 seconds later it turns back off... then on.... then off... then on... etc...

the little green light on the power brick stays on the entire time... the indicator light on the actual monitor itself is green while its on... then the light turns off when the screen goes off... while the screen is off the indicator light comes on, but red.... then the screen comes on and the light turns green again...

its like the monitor is rebooting every 10 seconds or so.

My graphics card is a Nvidia GTX275. 1Gb.

I have contacted green-sum and Im still waitng for a resolution....

does anyone have any suggestions in the mean time?? let me know. thanks.


----------



## Eagle1337

Try a different dvi cable? the included one ish it or miss.. but going by what scribbly said above it could be the power brick.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> I Just got my catleap from green-sum yesterday.
> I hooked it up... it ran fine for about 5 minutes... then the screen shut off... complete black... 10 seconds later it turns back on.... 10 seconds later it turns back off... then on.... then off... then on... etc...
> the little green light on the power brick stays on the entire time... the indicator light on the actual monitor itself is green while its on... then the light turns off when the screen goes off... while the screen is off the indicator light comes on, but red.... then the screen comes on and the light turns green again...
> its like the monitor is rebooting every 10 seconds or so.
> My graphics card is a Nvidia GTX275. 1Gb.
> I have contacted green-sum and Im still waitng for a resolution....
> does anyone have any suggestions in the mean time?? let me know. thanks.


tested the power brick... it is putting out a solid 24.4V non-stop... gonna run to the store and get a new DVI. ill update when i try that.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> tested the power brick... it is putting out a solid 24.4V non-stop... gonna run to the store and get a new DVI. ill update when i try that.


got a new dvi cable... NO LUCK!! same problem with it shutting off and on. I dont know what else to try. I am super frustrated.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> got a new dvi cable... NO LUCK!! same problem with it shutting off and on. I dont know what else to try. I am super frustrated.


you may need to open her up and reseat cables. If that doesn't work then it sounds like it will have to go back.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> got a new dvi cable... NO LUCK!! same problem with it shutting off and on. I dont know what else to try. I am super frustrated.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> tested the power brick... it is putting out a solid 24.4V non-stop... gonna run to the store and get a new DVI. ill update when i try that.


THE DVI cable works fine on my current monitor (HP) .... so i know its not the DVI cable. The power cord going in to the brick works on the current monitor (HP).. so its not that... the only thing I can t hink is that it has to be the power brick.... or the monitor itself.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> you may need to open her up and reseat cables. If that doesn't work then it sounds like it will have to go back.


how exactly do i get it apart... and when i do... what cables do i need to check?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

See the op - just reseat all the cables - there aren't that many. It is pretty clear.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> See the op - just reseat all the cables - there aren't that many. It is pretty clear.


sorry if this sounds dumb... but whats "the op" ?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

No prob - Original Post - under stand removal there is a step-by-step.


----------



## poormanq45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Not sure where you see that but this is what I see with green-sum []http://www.overclock.net/image/id/2402760/width/497/height/498[/]
> hmm where is it that I read that some seller pays returning shipping for when a situation like this arrives?


Can I have the item number?

I'm seeing this:


----------



## poormanq45

Anyone that is hesitant about the 5 dead pixel warranty, here is a reference:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alienware*
> "Dark defects
> More than *eight dark* sub-pixels are found anywhere on the LCD.
> 
> More than three clusters of two adjacent dark sub-pixels are found anywhere on the LCD.
> 
> More than one cluster of three adjacent dark sub-pixels are found anywhere on the LCD.
> 
> Two or more complete dark pixels."


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apple*
> Many Apple products use active-matrix LCD panels, including the iMac (Flat Panel), MacBook Pro, MacBook, iBook, PowerBook, Apple Cinema displays, and iPod models with a color display. In addition to being slim and light, active-matrix LCD technology provides customers with many visual performance advantages when compared to traditional cathode-ray tube- (CRT) based displays, such as increased brightness, sharpness, and contrast ratio.
> 
> Active-matrix LCD technology uses rows and columns of addressable locations (pixels) that render text and images on screen. Each pixel location has three separate subpixels (red, green and blue) that allow the image to be rendered in full color. Each subpixel has a corresponding transistor responsible for turning the subpixel on or off.
> 
> There are typically millions of these subpixels on an LCD display. For example, the LCD panel used in the Apple Cinema HD display is made up of 2.3 million pixels and 6.9 million red, green, and blue subpixels. Occasionally, a transistor does not work perfectly, which may result in the affected subpixel being turned on (bright) or turned off (dark). With the millions of subpixels on a display, it is quite possible to have a low number of faulty transistors on an LCD. Therefore, *a certain number of subpixel anomalies is considered acceptable*. Rejecting all but perfect LCD panels would significantly increase the retail price for products using LCD displays. These factors apply to all manufacturers using LCD technology--not just Apple products.
> 
> If you suspect your display contains a high number of pixel anomalies, take your Apple product to an Apple Authorized Service Provider for closer examination. There may be a charge for the evaluation.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Thank you for the help so far. I really appreciate it.

i REALLLY hope I can get all this sorted out. I just got the monitor apart and re-seated all the cables. nothing seemed to be lose... but... its back together... ran for about 5 minutes.. then it started the off-on-off-on-off-on crap again.....

I ordered a new power brick too... We will see if that works. i guess when it arrives....

Green-sum replied via ebay this morning. He asked for my computer specs and about the power brick... i responded this morning with the info... still no reply back yet....

Im starting to feel that for all this trouble I am going through i should have forked out the extra dough and just got a dell ultrasharp....

any more ideas?


----------



## Nick911

Orderd one by bigclothcraft!

We will see how it goes!


----------



## burksdb

i think the colors on my monitor are a bit off. almost like there not as bight, but i have the brightness maxxed out


----------



## CallsignVega

Great news about the Accell 330MHz DP to DVI adapter: http://www.accellcables.com/products/DisplayPort/DP/dp330_dvid.htm

They must have used a nice chip in here as I can overclock this bad boy to ~425 MHz pixel clock, or about 108 Hz on the Catleap. It's good to know that I can make one of my monster Eyefinity setups now and be at pretty good refresh rate.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poormanq45*
> 
> Can I have the item number?
> I'm seeing this:


140738200221
140723272177


----------



## Nishinku

Just ordered mine today from Green-sum. Fingers crossed for a smooth delivery









Will report back with the quality.


----------



## poormanq45

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> 140738200221
> 140723272177


Nice!

Those weren't coming up for me.

I wonder why he has some listed as standard shipping.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> I Just got my catleap from green-sum yesterday.
> I hooked it up... *it ran fine for about 5 minutes... then the screen shut off... complete black... 10 seconds later it turns back on.... 10 seconds later it turns back off.*.. then on.... then off... then on... etc...
> the little green light on the power brick stays on the entire time... the indicator light on the actual monitor itself is green while its on... then the light turns off when the screen goes off... while the screen is off the indicator light comes on, but red.... then the screen comes on and the light turns green again...
> its like the monitor is rebooting every 10 seconds or so.
> My graphics card is a Nvidia GTX275. 1Gb.
> I have contacted green-sum and Im still waitng for a resolution....
> does anyone have any suggestions in the mean time?? let me know. thanks.


That sounds like something is over heating to me.

If you let is sit and turned off for 30 minutes, will it work again for 5 minutes before it starts switching on and off again ?


----------



## Bigbrag

I ordered three Catleaps from Greensum sunday night and received them today (Friday). So far all three monitors have checked out with at least no dead pixels. I haven't had too much time to individually test them because my 6970 only has a single dual dvi. On the monitor I'm using now, when viewing an all white screen the top of the screen is very clean white, while the bottom half is a dingy white with a yellow tint. It's noticeable on web-pages where it's mostly white, otherwise it doesn't bother me. Edit: after looking into it further it seems its mostly noticeable when the brightness is turned down. At full brightness its not nearly as bad. I haven't tried calibrating them yet. That may help as well. As long as I don't have any future problems with the monitors, I think I'll be very satisfied with them.


----------



## bigmac11

Hopefully it'll fade away. It did on all my monitors.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> That sounds like something is over heating to me.
> 
> If you let is sit and turned off for 30 minutes, will it work again for 5 minutes before it starts switching on and off again ?


yes. exactly. if it sits for 30 minutes or so... then it will work for about 5-10 minutes before it starts the on/off cycles... what could it be?? nothing is super hot to the touch..

thanks,


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> On the monitor I'm using now, when viewing an all white screen the top of the screen is very clean white, while the bottom half is a dingy white with a yellow tint.


I hope it's better on your other monitors, or it fixes itself after calibration... because otherwise, a yellow tint on a IPS monitor defeats the purpose of having a IPS monitor imo. You get an IPS for accurate colors, otherwise TN is just as good







Try to contact him for an exchange.


----------



## un-nefer

Is there a specific model that I ned to buy if I want 2560x1440 @ 100Hz?

Also, which would be the best model for lowest input lag?The one with only the DVI-D input and nothing else?

I'm considering pulling the trigger on THIS one, but it needs to achieve 100Hz and lowest input lag possible.


----------



## j33pownr

The only catlep that can achieve 100+ Hz is the 2B model. All the ones on ebay are newer and will not overclock past 67Hz or so.

Yes the DVI-D only input is what your looking for.


----------



## j33pownr

Nothing...same monitor...same seller...same price

edit: The model of these ebay ones are probably 2D or 2E. The 2B were manufactured in February. Thus second month = letter B.


----------



## Eagle1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j33pownr*
> 
> Nothing...same monitor...same seller...same price
> edit: The model of these ebay ones are probably 2D or 2E. The 2B were manufactured in February. Thus second month = letter B.


Actually i believe the difference in this case is inputs.


----------



## Ferling Design

Just ordered from green-sum after they dropped the price a bit, will update about my purchase later.

Edit: will my gpu work with this monitor, i know the 560ti will but here is mine GIGABYTE GV-N56GOC-1GI GeForce GTX 560


----------



## poormanq45

Woah, another price drop. Nice!


----------



## Megaman_90

I keep seeing these don't work with the 5870...Any truth to that?


----------



## Kimo

According to the compatibility list, no.


----------



## CursiveQ

anyone using the mono price stand with it? if so, how is it?

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

also, i was wondering if there was an easier way to take off the existing mount, is it just the big silver arc blocking the vesa mounts? what if i just snap the plastic pieces off?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> anyone using the mono price stand with it? if so, how is it?
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> also, i was wondering if there was an easier way to take off the existing mount, is it just the big silver arc blocking the vesa mounts? what if i just snap the plastic pieces off?


That stand is for a max of 23" monitors. I have this one and it works pretty good for the price.

As for getting to the VESA mounts, you'll need to remove the silver arc, yes. I guess you could just break it off, but TBH the way mentioned in the OP is pretty simple. That is also the only way to remove the stock stand. If you're going to take it apart to get the stand off you may as well get the silver arc done too.


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> That stand is for a max of 23" monitors. I have this one and it works pretty good for the price.
> As for getting to the VESA mounts, you'll need to remove the silver arc, yes. I guess you could just break it off, but TBH the way mentioned in the OP is pretty simple. That is also the only way to remove the stock stand. If you're going to take it apart to get the stand off you may as well get the silver arc done too.


thanks for the quick reply, i was hoping to get something with a base, because i have a really cheap $20 ikea computer table and its kind of flimsy...can you post some pictures of your setup and how the monitor arm is? thanks


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> thanks for the quick reply, i was hoping to get something with a base, because i have a really cheap $20 ikea computer table and its kind of flimsy...can you post some pictures of your setup and how the monitor arm is? thanks


I haven't seen many stands like what you're looking for besides the Monoprice one. Here's the best pic I have atm


I'm actually resting a bit of weight from the monitor for a few reasons, 1. Because the monitor was tilting _slightly_ to the left, not so much that it bothered me, but I also rested it on the speakers because 2. My desk isn't the strongest either. It was fine without resting it on the speakers but I thought I may as well do it so assure it wont tilt and for some extra strength. As for desk sturdiness it doesn't need much, my desk is no more than half an inch thick of wood. If you require more adjustability there's also one on Monoprice with 2 swivel hinges as opposed to one, or if you'd rather have sturdiness instead of adjustability there's one with no swivel at all which will eliminate any slight tilting.


----------



## Nick911

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=4#feedback

It's all about the WEIGHT! Not the size!! This will be perfect for the monitor without issue.

Hell the reviewer said his 27" T.V. works!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick911*
> 
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=4#feedback
> It's all about the WEIGHT! Not the size!! This will be perfect for the monitor without issue.
> Hell the reviewer said his 27" T.V. works!


Good to know. Just not sure if it'll be tall enough to have the bottom of the monitor off the desk. That'd suck having it so low







That reviewer didn't mention anything about that.


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I haven't seen many stands like what you're looking for besides the Monoprice one. Here's the best pic I have atm
> 
> I'm actually resting a bit of weight from the monitor for a few reasons, 1. Because the monitor was tilting _slightly_ to the left, not so much that it bothered me, but I also rested it on the speakers because 2. My desk isn't the strongest either. It was fine without resting it on the speakers but I thought I may as well do it so assure it wont tilt and for some extra strength. As for desk sturdiness it doesn't need much, my desk is no more than half an inch thick of wood. If you require more adjustability there's also one on Monoprice with 2 swivel hinges as opposed to one, or if you'd rather have sturdiness instead of adjustability there's one with no swivel at all which will eliminate any slight tilting.


thanks a lot for your help man. that looks awesome, i'm definitely gonna pick up the same desk mount as you.


----------



## PastaJackal

Just ordered one but am planning to get a second depending on its quality. What is a good gfx card to grab for a dual monitor setup? Suppose I'm looking for one with 2x dual link DVI.

Will post my impressions of the catleap when it arrives


----------



## burksdb

well i started to get a tons red dots and other colored dots to appear on my screen. then a bunch of lines and it started flashing. sadly looks like there's something wrong with either the monitor or the power brick (which is uncomfortably warm to touch for short periods of time). tried to disable sli, no luck. i have tried a different dvi cable and still getting the same issue. odd thing is that when i'm playing a game i dont have any issues at all, but when i'm just web browsing or going thru windows folders i start seeing all the issues come up. Could it possibly be that my video card is down clocking too much to drive the resolution?.

uploaded a video of the issue that i'm having. this is the worst that i have seen it, and i quickly grabbed my phone so the quality's not the greatest but you get the idea.

Video Here


----------



## Shane1244

are you able to try a different GPU?


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244*
> 
> are you able to try a different GPU?


i can but ive ran these 2 without any issues on many different monitors.


----------



## brainyasian

Hey, I'm new to this forum. I've been considering these monitors recently and have decided that the Catleaps are the best for me. Do you guys know the difference between the SE and non-SE versions? Other than the speakers is there any difference? And should I purchase from green-sum or bigcloth? They both seem to be quite reputable sellers. Thanks!


----------



## Nick911

Order from bigcloth. What I did


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *brainyasian*
> 
> Hey, I'm new to this forum. I've been considering these monitors recently and have decided that the Catleaps are the best for me. Do you guys know the difference between the SE and non-SE versions? Other than the speakers is there any difference? And should I purchase from green-sum or bigcloth? They both seem to be quite reputable sellers. Thanks!


The SE version has no speakers, and the Non-SE has speakers. That's the only difference. I went with a perfect pixel from greensum and there's no defects at all.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burksdb*
> 
> well i started to get a tons red dots and other colored dots to appear on my screen. then a bunch of lines and it started flashing. sadly looks like there's something wrong with either the monitor or the power brick (which is uncomfortably warm to touch for short periods of time). tried to disable sli, no luck. i have tried a different dvi cable and still getting the same issue. odd thing is that when i'm playing a game i dont have any issues at all, but when i'm just web browsing or going thru windows folders i start seeing all the issues come up. Could it possibly be that my video card is down clocking too much to drive the resolution?.
> uploaded a video of the issue that i'm having. this is the worst that i have seen it, and i quickly grabbed my phone so the quality's not the greatest but you get the idea.
> Video Here


Did you re-seat all of the monitors interior connections?


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Did you re-seat all of the monitors interior connections?


no i havent. trying to talk to the seller before i try opening it up. debating how much of a pain it will be to work on. (i'm missing all 5 fingers on my left hand small jobs can be a big pain)


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burksdb*
> 
> no i havent. trying to talk to the seller before i try opening it up. debating how much of a pain it will be to work on. (i'm missing all 5 fingers on my left hand small jobs can be a big pain)


Oh that stinks. War wound, machinery accident? The monitor is pretty easy to open up if you decide to.


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Oh that stinks. War wound, machinery accident? The monitor is pretty easy to open up if you decide to.


tripped and fell in front of a lawn mower when i was 5 (24 now) get along nicely without any major issue just there are some things that become a big pita that are easy to others.

yea i was looking at the pics i sent green-sum the video of the issue i'm waiting for him to reply. whats ive been using it for the last hour without any issues it's pure intermittent.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burksdb*
> 
> tripped and fell in front of a lawn mower when i was 5 (24 now) get along nicely without any major issue just there are some things that become a big pita that are easy to others.
> yea i was looking at the pics i sent green-sum the video of the issue i'm waiting for him to reply. whats ive been using it for the last hour without any issues it's pure intermittent.


Have you tried tapping the back of the monitor to see if that introduces the problem at all? Sometimes a little vibration can diagnose bad connections.


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallsignVega*
> 
> Have you tried tapping the back of the monitor to see if that introduces the problem at all? Sometimes a little vibration can diagnose bad connections.


just did no issues seemed to appear from it.


----------



## ropeadope

Is there a 23" (or around 23") IPS monitor out there that can overclock to 100hz? Doesn't even have to be a Yamakasi. I really need a new monitor soon


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ropeadope*
> 
> Is there a 23" (or around 23") IPS monitor out there that can overclock to 100hz? Doesn't even have to be a Yamakasi. I really need a new monitor soon


I haven't seen any monitors that have that combination... It's either TN + 120hz like the BenQ XL2420TX or IPS + 60hz like the Dell U2312HM


----------



## michaelcat41

Huge issue anytime i download any file my display goes black the light goes from green to red waits a few seconds and starts again is there somthing wrong with the panel?


----------



## DRatchet

Update on my dead Catleap: I messaged green-sum about it and he had me send some pics (I really didn't understand that.. The monitor died, it didn't fall apart...). I replied about a week ago with the pictures he wanted and he hasn't responded since. I sent him another message asking him what was going on a couple days ago and he still hasn't responded. Getting kinda scared. It really stinks if I just threw $350+ down the drain.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Update on my dead Catleap: I messaged green-sum about it and he had me send some pics (I really didn't understand that.. The monitor died, it didn't fall apart...). I replied about a week ago with the pictures he wanted and he hasn't responded since. I sent him another message asking him what was going on a couple days ago and he still hasn't responded. Getting kinda scared. It really stinks if I just threw $350+ down the drain.


That sucks

File a dispute.. You would have to ship the monitor back though.


----------



## edo101

Any updates on the Overclockable PCB. I've been holding out for one


----------



## PastaJackal

Any cards out there with 2x dual link DVI ports so as to get 2 catleaps?


----------



## edo101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PastaJackal*
> 
> Any cards out there with 2x dual link DVI ports so as to get 2 catleaps?


research


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PastaJackal*
> 
> Any cards out there with 2x dual link DVI ports so as to get 2 catleaps?


Of course there is. A 680 has two dual DVI's as well as a DP which can be converted to dual dvi.


----------



## winbond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelcat41*
> 
> Huge issue anytime i download any file my display goes black the light goes from green to red waits a few seconds and starts again is there somthing wrong with the panel?


a guy on a pcbank thread had a similar problem, where his display would turn on and off every few minutes, he said he fixed it with a new dvi cable


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Update on my dead Catleap: I messaged green-sum about it and he had me send some pics (I really didn't understand that.. The monitor died, it didn't fall apart...). I replied about a week ago with the pictures he wanted and he hasn't responded since. I sent him another message asking him what was going on a couple days ago and he still hasn't responded. Getting kinda scared. It really stinks if I just threw $350+ down the drain.


If that's true then green-sum is a fraud.








Really expected more from someone who has 99%+ positive feedback


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> If that's true then green-sum is a fraud.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Really expected more from someone who has 99%+ positive feedback


my greensum monitor is coming this week, hope its ok. although it is disappointing that these sellers are not standing behind their products, i can't say i'm surprised. for the prices of these monitors i've kind of prepared myself to get no customer service. if the seller is actually willing to refund or repair then that's just a bonus


----------



## plum

Honestly, I am surprised considering how low they go in korea, so the profit they're making is great. And it's not like people are pushing them to do a free shipping RMA, it's in their terms at the bottom of their advertisement, so they agreed to do it.

I don't know where I read it but wasn't there someone on this topic that had their seller send someone to pick up the monitor at the door and pay for the shipping? That's the seller everyone should be buying from.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Ordered one today, will let everyone know when I get it and what the quality is like. I am so excited, I'm moving from a 1680x1050 imac IPS display (which I rather like), so the resolution will be god-like...


----------



## Sheyster

When are second tier monitor manufacturers going to get on this bandwagon and offer something like this at a reasonable price here in the US?? (ASUS, Acer, etc). Does LG have exclusive contracts with Apple, HP and Dell to only sell the A grade panels to them?

400+ pages just in this thread, and there are others here about the same topic that are very long too. You'd think they'd get a clue that there is demand for these 27" 2560x1440 panels.


----------



## whybother

Those same second tier companies price 120hz screens at near double their 60hz counterparts. I can't see them being able/willing to price a 27" 2560x1440 much lower than Dell/HP.. They'd spend half the cost on bling / advertisement / packaging.


----------



## am89

somehow managed to mess up the stand removal process and damaged the white cable as shown in the photo. Only got this monitor today .. How can i get this repaired in the UK? need some advice please i would be very grateful


----------



## Finny

Did the wire just get pulled out? Try disconnecting the white connector and seeing if you can re-insert that wire.

If not, it is likely you can find another white connector like that and re-wire the whole thing.

Can you give us a close up of the wire end and the connector?


----------



## am89

yep i think it just came out. I am unable to remove the white connector it seems like its soldered on. Has anyone else had this problem? I get a green light but just a blank screen with the backlight on.


----------



## Finny

is the last metal bit bent at all?

I say re-insert and glue that wire to the adjacent wire so it doesn't come loose again.


----------



## am89

ok i've made progress. I managed to put the white cable back in its position. Its definitely clipped in tight. Now when i test the monitor the status indicator light is stable green and the backlight is on. Could it just be that its a problem with my DVI cable?


----------



## winbond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am89*
> 
> ok i've made progress. I managed to put the white cable back in its position. Its definitely clipped in tight. Now when i test the monitor the status indicator light is stable green and the backlight is on. Could it just be that its a problem with my DVI cable?


why did you take the monitor apart? the white connector has a clip, you need to lift that up before you pull, and yeah you should have definitely tried a better dvi cable first, now you need to make sure that the cable you pulled is firmly pushed in and even with the other cables


----------



## summercrush

Nice thread, thx for info mister matrix.

I can confirm hazro hz27wc is working @ oc too.


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winbond*
> 
> why did you take the monitor apart? the white connector has a clip, you need to lift that up before you pull, and yeah you should have definitely tried a better dvi cable first, now you need to make sure that the cable you pulled is firmly pushed in and even with the other cables


pretty sure he was trying to take the stand off so he could either mount it or attach a new stand.

Update *

the issues i'm having seem to be coming from the weight of the DVI cable so far no issues after adjusting it and finding a better way of holding it up.


----------



## Nastrodamous

Anybody with the gtx 670 ftw able to boot into the bios?


----------



## Tuny

i am almost geting one of these from ebay, i just want to be sure about one thing

is this monitor reliable? are they getting too much deffects or any kind of failure?
i read a lot about them but didnt found anything about this, just about dead pixels or frequncy overclock

thanks


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tuny*
> 
> i am almost geting one of these from ebay, i just want to be sure about one thing
> is this monitor reliable? are they getting too much deffects or any kind of failure?
> i read a lot about them but didnt found anything about this, just about dead pixels or frequncy overclock
> thanks


Your odds of getting a perfect monitor are actually better than you'd think. The main issues people are getting are dead pixels and backlight bleed/fading. The driver/no start issues are mainly with AMD cards.


----------



## Nick911

Anyone having major pixel issue? Just I know what it is but never actually had one. Really tempted to spend the extra 60 for a perfect one since shipping it back for it would be a pain!


----------



## Ferling Design

This may be a bit off topic but...

I don't understand why using amd vision gpu's won't work for this monitor, i was going to buy a new gpu before encountering this monitor because i already have a 990fx mobo and the AMD Phenom II X4 955 (_was gonna upgrade to the AMD FX-8150 Zambezi_)...but i right now have the GeForce GTX 560 gpu... I was shooting to get the 



 is just a lil gimmick?

Thanks in advance


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> This may be a bit off topic but...
> I don't understand why using amd vision gpu's don't work for this monitor, i was going to buy a new gpu before encountering this monitor because i already have a 990fx mobo and the AMD Phenom II X4 955 (_was gonna upgrade to the AMD FX-8150 Zambezi_)...but i right now have the GeForce GTX 560 gpu... I was shooting to get the
> 
> 
> 
> is just a lil gimmick?
> Thanks in advance


No, do you realize that AMD and Nvidia are rival company's ?

"Tri Scorpion effect" sounds like a complete gimmick and marketing rubbish.

You would most likely almost certainly at this time get better performance from an Intel CPU and motherboarde, then go with AMD or Nvidia for your GPU.

I am using this monitor with H7970 crossfire and have had no problems yet.


----------



## jacksonn24

im thinking about buying 3 of these monitors and running eyefinity or whatever its called with nvida.can any1 tell me if there any graphics cards that will run them. i know the 690 has 3 dvi outs but not sure it will work and i know 1 of these monitors comes with hdmi out but i though i read that cant run hdmi at max resolution on the monitor? is this correct? if not then ill get the 1s with hdmi out but if not will 690 run all three? any info would be much appricioated.


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


Just trying to get some info that i may not already know, yes i know they are competitors, but some competitors team up to make certain products.

My real question was will i be fine with getting an amd gpu? In your case the answer is yes...but did you have to do anything extra to make it work?

on the manufactures website they only list so many gpus that are not compatible and a majority of them are from amd.

The term _"scorpion effect"_ was just a way of describing the performance outcome when using all amd... quoted on the 



 i linked

Thanks but i need more support on this

*Edit: i just realized that my mobo allows me to do both 2 way SLI and 2 way CrossFireX but the pci slots are 2.0x16 and i cant find any good ati gpu's with that interface worth buying...kinda pointless now







*


----------



## dctravis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick911*
> 
> Anyone having major pixel issue? Just I know what it is but never actually had one. Really tempted to spend the extra 60 for a perfect one since shipping it back for it would be a pain!


I think there is a concept error in your thought process here. You are assuming that you would be able to return it for dead pixels... the soutb korean policy for these monitors is that if there is less than a certain number of dark and light pixels in each sector of the screen then the screen is perfectly acceptable.
Perfect pixel actually isnt a guarantee you will have zero pixels flawed, but that it has been checked and is less likely...


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> Just trying to get some info that i may not already know, yes i know they are competitors, but some competitors team up to make certain products.
> My real question was will i be fine with getting an amd gpu? In your case the answer is yes...but did you have to do anything extra to make it work?
> on the manufactures website they only list so many gpus that are not compatible and a majority of them are from amd.
> The term _"scorpion effect"_ was just a way of describing the performance outcome when using all amd... quoted on the
> 
> 
> 
> i linked
> Thanks but i need more support on this
> *Edit: i just realized that my mobo allows me to do both 2 way SLI and 2 way CrossFireX but the pci slots are 2.0x16 and i cant find any good ati gpu's with that interface worth buying...kinda pointless now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


Wow. Just wow. I signed in to reply just to this post. I think you need to disregard everything you "know".

You can use any GPU, it will run the same speed in either an AMD or Intel setup, there is no boost or "scorpion effect". The only boost you'll get is using a newer Intel CPU (sandybridge, ivybridge) over AMD's bulldozer, this is only because bulldozer is a poor performing CPU.

I don't know where you are getting this list of incompatible GPU's, they will all work. A PCI-e 3.0 card will work in a 2.1, 2.0 or 1.1 slot. Just buy the fastest card or cards you can afford. The fastest being GTX 680's.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> Just trying to get some info that i may not already know, yes i know they are competitors, but some competitors team up to make certain products.
> My real question was will i be fine with getting an amd gpu? In your case the answer is yes...but did you have to do anything extra to make it work?
> on the manufactures website they only list so many gpus that are not compatible and a majority of them are from amd.
> The term _"scorpion effect"_ was just a way of describing the performance outcome when using all amd... quoted on the
> 
> 
> 
> i linked
> Thanks but i need more support on this
> *Edit: i just realized that my mobo allows me to do both 2 way SLI and 2 way CrossFireX but the pci slots are 2.0x16 and i cant find any good ati gpu's with that interface worth buying...kinda pointless now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


I just plugged the monitor into a DL-DVI (dual link) port on my HD7970, using a DL-DVI (dual link) cable that I was using from my previous 24" 120Hz monitor.

There is a DL-DVI cable supplied with the monitor, I am not sure of its quality, as I didn't use it.

GPU's with PCI-e 3 x16 slots are backwards compatible, so they will work fine in a PCI-e 2 x16 slot.

Not all AMD cards have a DL-DVI port (MSI Lighting HD7970 for one I know







, cool move AMD), dont know for Nvidia, but have seen people saying they have used this monitor with cards as far back as the GTS 250 .


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *horrorwood*
> 
> Wow. Just wow. I signed in to reply just to this post. I think you need to disregard everything you "know".
> *You can use any GPU,* it will run the same speed in either an AMD or Intel setup, there is no boost or "scorpion effect". The only boost you'll get is using a newer Intel CPU (sandybridge, ivybridge) over AMD's bulldozer, this is only because bulldozer is a poor performing CPU.
> I don't know where you are getting this list of incompatible GPU's, they will all work. A PCI-e 3.0 card will work in a 2.1, 2.0 or 1.1 slot. Just buy the fastest card or cards you can afford. The fastest being GTX 680's.


Not necessarily true. They must have a DL-DVI port and support the resolution. The majority of cards have both, but there are some that don't.

680s (also, the 690, hah) aren't necessarily the fastest, but they do win at stock settings.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I just plugged the monitor into a DL-DVI (dual link) port on my HD7970, using a DL-DVI (dual link) cable that I was using from my previous 24" 120Hz monitor.
> There is a DL-DVI cable supplied with the monitor, I am not sure of its quality, as I didn't use it.
> 
> GPU's with PCI-e 3 x16 slots are backwards compatible, so they will work fine in a PCI-e 2 x16 slot.
> 
> Not all AMD cards have a DL-DVI port (MSI Lighting HD7970 for one I know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , cool move AMD), dont know for Nvidia, but have seen people saying they have used this monitor with cards as far back as the GTS 250 .


Not AMD's fault, MSI went non-reference. AMD has plenty of issues I'm not going to delve into here with the 2B monitors.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> .
> Not AMD's fault, MSI went non-reference. AMD has plenty of issues I'm not going to delve into here with the 2B monitors.


Yes I meant MSI as it is non reference, thanks for pointing that out.

And yes, AMD have plenty of issues with the 2B monitors, but this it when overclocking the refresh rate, so as you say, there is no need to delve into here.


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Not necessarily true. They must have a DL-DVI port and support the resolution. The majority of cards have both, but there are some that don't.
> 680s (also, the 690, hah) aren't necessarily the fastest, but they do win at stock settings.


Ok I thought that part was obvious


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *summercrush*
> 
> Nice thread, thx for info mister matrix.
> *I can confirm hazro hz27wc is working @ oc too*.


so the Hazro can OC too?? cool.
what maximum Hz are you getting? can you post some pics?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *horrorwood*
> 
> Ok I thought that part was obvious


Just thought I'd mention it, since the lists are very, very basic and limited. There are plenty of cards that work that aren't on the list. Including the cards that only have DisplayPort, because its not a DL-DVI, but those cards come with adapters or they can be purchased. Its a common issue in this thread, people just assume that list is the decider.


----------



## DRatchet

Update on my dead monitor (again): green-sum finally contacted me and agreed to exchange it and pay return shipping!


----------



## twizted01

Just got one of these monitors yesterday - everything has been good so far except I feel that there is a slight blue tint to my monitor. Also the brightness buttons at the bottom don't seem to do anything at all, not sure if that is intended.

I tried to use the color profiles provided in the OP but the d65 profile increases the blue tint my monitor has. the native profile has the slight blue tint. model is a 2D.

am i missing something?


----------



## JabberWakie

Hey Guys, I posted a few pages back about receiving my Catleap from greensum with seemingly no issues but I've come across something. Occasionally, when I turn the monitor on, from being completely powered off, the monitor will display weird image 'corruption'.. basically bands of random colors.. If I turn it back off and on it has always fixes the issue. If I leave the monitor powered on during the color banding, it will eventually go away. Either way I'm a bit nervous, is anyone else experiencing this issue? Should I contact greensum for a possible return?

Here's an image of the issue:
http://i.imgur.com/boVv7.jpg


----------



## Ferling Design

Thanks to everyone for responding, i did not know i could use 3.0x16 cards with a mobo that has 2.0x16 slots...

on another note

its hard to think i am always getting reputable info from this forum due to some considerable ugly "smart" feedback...

Please don't just assume im just some noob, every question has a reason behind it.

im just going off by what i have been limited to reading up till now, im pretty sure some of you had to learn one way or another....
here is what i am seeing...
http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2422376/width/131/height/700/flags/


Spoiler: Compatibility chart















...Sorry if you cant read the small print but basically from what im seeing is a majority of ati radeons that supposedly wont work... unlike the nvidia cards

Special thanks to Jesus


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JabberWakie*
> 
> Hey Guys, I posted a few pages back about receiving my Catleap from greensum with seemingly no issues but I've come across something. Occasionally, when I turn the monitor on, from being completely powered off, the monitor will display weird image 'corruption'.. basically bands of random colors.. If I turn it back off and on it has always fixes the issue. If I leave the monitor powered on during the color banding, it will eventually go away. Either way I'm a bit nervous, is anyone else experiencing this issue? Should I contact greensum for a possible return?
> Here's an image of the issue:
> http://i.imgur.com/boVv7.jpg


mine did that i found out that the weight of the dvi cable was causing my issue. next time it happens adjust your dvi cable while its happening see if that helps if it does find a way to take some of the weight off of the port.


----------



## futr_vision

Whatever you do don't get thrown off by the colors they use on that chart. Green does not equal good and red does not equal bad. Who the heck chose those colors for a compatibility chart?


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> Whatever you do don't get thrown off by the colors they use on that chart. Green does not equal good and red does not equal bad. Who the heck chose those colors for a compatibility chart?


the colors are not important...they also have print on them...whats mostly in red reads "No" and what is all in green reads "Yes"


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Just thought I'd mention it, since the lists are very, very basic and limited. There are plenty of cards that work that aren't on the list. Including the cards that only have DisplayPort, because its not a DL-DVI, but those cards come with adapters or they can be purchased. Its a common issue in this thread, people just assume that list is the decider.


Thanks for clarifying


----------



## JabberWakie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burksdb*
> 
> mine did that i found out that the weight of the dvi cable was causing my issue. next time it happens adjust your dvi cable while its happening see if that helps if it does find a way to take some of the weight off of the port.


Thanks for your input, I'll definitely try adjusting the cable next time it happens. I might just buy a light weight DVI-D cable it if turns out to be the reason.


----------



## am89

I've changed the DVI cable to a good quality Belkin one that i bought from currys. Now i get a flashing green light instead of a constant green light with the backlight.

Is it because i have this disconnected: 

if so where do i put it back? is it somewhere here?


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> Thanks to everyone for responding, i did not know i could use 3.0x16 cards with a mobo that has 2.0x16 slots...
> on another note
> its hard to think i am always getting reputable info from this forum due to some considerable ugly "smart" feedback...
> Please don't just assume im just some noob, every question has a reason behind it.
> im just going off by what i have been limited to reading up till now, im pretty sure some of you had to learn one way or another....
> here is what i am seeing...
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/2422376/width/131/height/700/flags/
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Compatibility chart
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...Sorry if you cant read the small print but basically from what im seeing is a majority of ati radeons that supposedly wont work... unlike the nvidia cards
> Special thanks to Jesus


Most of the charts are pretty useless. If it supports dual link DVI and up to 2560x1600 resolution like most cards do then it will be fine.

I mean some of the charts say laptops don't work... not true, some have dvi out that works just fine.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *am89*
> 
> I've changed the DVI cable to a good quality Belkin one that i bought from currys. Now i get a flashing green light instead of a constant green light with the backlight.
> Is it because i have this disconnected:
> if so where do i put it back? is it somewhere here?


LOL YES! Sorry I had to giggle a little you right now have your DVI PCB completely disconnected from your panel PCB. See the gold bit in your pic - plug your DVI PCB cable into that (under the metal tape), press the tape back down, and close her up. You should be good to go.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *horrorwood*
> 
> Most of the charts are pretty useless. If it supports dual link DVI and up to 2560x1600 resolution like most cards do then it will be fine.
> I mean some of the charts say laptops don't work... not true, some have dvi out that works just fine.


^ This - I know my comment is lost here in 4000+ posts and no one reads the OP usually - so here is the best advice for people concerned X GPU cannot handle X number of Cats - check out the GPU manufacturer's specs. That will tell you all you need to know. If it lists up 2560x1600 you are fine. If it lists dual dvi x 2 outputs - you can run 2. If it lists dual dvi x 2 plus DP - then you can run three with a scaler for the DP (they cost about $100). Always check your video card specs first - forget what the Koreans tell you on the monitor sites!

Cheers!


----------



## am89

your name should be ScribbyDaGenius - Your advice worked thanks


----------



## summercrush

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hrockh*
> 
> so the Hazro can OC too?? cool.
> what maximum Hz are you getting? can you post some pics?


just tried until 99hz, if is set refresh >90hz it starts to buzz, which makes me a bit scary. sure, i can post pics, but i dont know if they would help u.


----------



## Ferling Design

But no way of using mini HDMI?

and thanks Scribby


----------



## CursiveQ

hi guys, i just received my monitor from green sum. its for a new build and im waiting on one more part so i can't get it running yet. however, i tried to turn on the monitor with the power brick connected just to see it'll turn on and i started getting this plastic burning smell coming from the monitor. i immediately unplugged the monitor and just let it sit. the plastic burning is still coming though. anyone have this problem? hope i didn't receive a dud..

i'm gonna pick up the last part in a few hours and build the computer. please let me know if someone else has experienced this!

i used the powerbrick provided, but used my own US power cable. i also have the power cable + adapter that shipped with it

i also noticed that the power brick is not solid green. its blinking green which whatever cable i try. the monitor light is blinking red.

another edit: the monitor started smoking









just emailed greensum about it. pretty disappointed


----------



## Nick911

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dctravis*
> 
> I think there is a concept error in your thought process here. You are assuming that you would be able to return it for dead pixels... the soutb korean policy for these monitors is that if there is less than a certain number of dark and light pixels in each sector of the screen then the screen is perfectly acceptable.
> Perfect pixel actually isnt a guarantee you will have zero pixels flawed, but that it has been checked and is less likely...


<__>. Glad I just did the normal then. It has shipped and ordered it Friday. Let's hope for the best!


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> LOL YES! Sorry I had to giggle a little you right now have your DVI PCB completely disconnected from your panel PCB. See the gold bit in your pic - plug your DVI PCB cable into that (under the metal tape), press the tape back down, and close her up. You should be good to go.


I think maybe we have a comedian on our hands.


----------



## Kosta88

Well guys, I finally ordered mine and got it today.

Ordered from BCC on ebay, perfect pixel Q270SE.

I have no backlight bleed, no irregularities in white/black, some banding, but nothing I wasn't expecting from a 300€ monitor, and absolutely no dead or faulty pixels.

The only slight fault in the panel which I notice is on the full red screen something like something slightly smeared over the screen. I would simply call it slight discoloration. Absolutely not visible in any other configuration, only with a test program, and I really have to look for it. Fully acceptable.

Stand is crap as usual. Ordered Ergotron MX arm.

BCC was a great seller, I would order from him any time again. He was so kind to also check my monitor prior to shipping, making sure I have no major faults like pixel errors, backlight bleeding or similar.
Contacts with him were great. Answered virtually my every question.

That being said, it was the ONLY seller who replied to me before I bought the monitor. Green-sum also replied, but after a week, where BCC answered me the 2nd day.

If anyone asked me, I would recommend BCC any time over anyone else.

On another note: packaging was good (the original box was wrapped into white material, just to protect it from damaging the box), I received the monitor as "refurbished" 90$ product, for which I had to pay measly 14€ tax. So that went through great too.

Have been working on it past 3 hours, and I must say: compared to HP ZR2440W, Samsung S24A850DW and Dell U2412M, this monitor kicks ass by FAR. I have no eye strain, it has a clean and good picture, no sideeffects from crappy AG coating.

I even decided I won't be getting a 120Hz version over at _that_ place, simply due to having enough with 60Hz (not that 120Hz wouldn't be a bonus), but I prefer a perfect screen to a whopping 120Hz.

Anyway, giving this screen 9/10, simply due to that small anomaly in the red area and this bad stand, which just sucks.


----------



## dougcbj

Got my monitor in today. Fired it up, found one stuck pixel that was green, but I haven't a clue where it is after 10 minutes, so I assume it became unstuck. I have back light bleeding though I think, the bottom left and bottom right are noticeably different on a dark screen and the viewing angles aren't at all what I expected. I get a different color in the bottom left and bottom right corner just like I do on my Samsung PX2370. Does it take awhile for the screen to "warm up" with viewing angles and back light bleed? Maybe loosing the screws in the back could improve the back lighting some?\

Edit: Also is it safe to overclock these to 65hz ? I can get mine up to 67hz but anything over will not work.


----------



## Shmerrick

Wow, just got my catleap in the mail. No dead pixels at all, this monitor is amazing.


----------



## donccc

Hey All,

I did finally figure out what was causing my Macbook Pro (MBP Mid-2009) to not work.

I tried:
- Apple Mini DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI Adapter
- ATLONA AT-DP400 Dual Link DVI to Mini Display Port Converter
- Monoprice Mini DisplayPort | Thunderbolt® to HDMI®, DVI & DisplayPort Adapter

My experience:
- Altona didn't work at all, and their support claimed it would not.
- Monoprice didn't work to Dual DVI, it did work to HDMI (great price I wish it did)
- Apple Mini Displayport adapter did work, but would only work with certain USB + Display port combos.

The thing that was tripping me up was that two of the Dual DVI-D cords were bad. Once I found the working cord, it was easier to find the working adapter. The experience I did find to be a frustrating / expensive one. However, the monitor itself is beautiful.

Hopefully this helps someone else and their MacBook Pro / Laptop work.

Don


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> hi guys, i just received my monitor from green sum. its for a new build and im waiting on one more part so i can't get it running yet. however, i tried to turn on the monitor with the power brick connected just to see it'll turn on and i started getting this plastic burning smell coming from the monitor. i immediately unplugged the monitor and just let it sit. the plastic burning is still coming though. anyone have this problem? hope i didn't receive a dud..
> i'm gonna pick up the last part in a few hours and build the computer. please let me know if someone else has experienced this!
> i used the powerbrick provided, but used my own US power cable. i also have the power cable + adapter that shipped with it
> i also noticed that the power brick is not solid green. its blinking green which whatever cable i try. the monitor light is blinking red.
> another edit: the monitor started smoking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just emailed greensum about it. pretty disappointed


I it possible that some of these power bricks supplied with the monitors are not compatible with the US 110v , does it say on the power brick (110 ~ 240v / 50 ~ 60Hz) ?


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I it possible that some of these power bricks supplied with the monitors are not compatible with the US 110v , does it say on the power brick (110 ~ 240v / 50 ~ 60Hz) ?


yup. the power brick says INPUT: 110-240v~50/60hz, 1.5a


----------



## quakermaas

I just checked my own, wouldn't work in the US by the look of it.

On a side note, my power brick does not heat up at all, just very very slightly warm to the touch.


----------



## quakermaas

OCN playing up, double post


----------



## CursiveQ

here is mine



greensum still hasn't answered, very frustrating


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> Whatever you do don't get thrown off by the colors they use on that chart. Green does not equal good and red does not equal bad. Who the heck chose those colors for a compatibility chart?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> the colors are not important...they also have print on them...whats mostly in red reads "No" and what is all in green reads "Yes"


Well, its because typically people refer to AMD as the Team Red and Nvidia as Team Green due to their logo colors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> But no way of using mini HDMI?
> and thanks Scribby


I think the only way possible would be if the source supports the resolution and is HDMI 1.3+, I don't see why it wouldn't, they're the same pins.


----------



## dctravis

well... i did it. After nearly a month of creeping these threads i clicked buy and ordered myself a q270 se from pallascospi. I admit im a little worried as he doesnt have nearly as many sales as greensum bigclothcraft and others, but out of 300 people only two have given a neutral due to manuals being writtien in korean. So as far as i can see everyone had been happy. I sent a message asking if he could check it for defects before shipping it as i plan to get two more and if this o e has no flaws then i will buy from him. I chose him because of his 2-3 day fedex usa because ill be moving friday and want it to get there before i do.
Now tk order my stand from monoprice along with speaker wire, hdmi cables and more for my new place.

Oh, doez anybody know if j need a extension dvi-d cable or just a standard male on both ends to go with the adapter that will come with the monitor?

Sorry about my spelling, i hate virtual keyboards so much...


----------



## 260870

Just ordered a pixel perfect model from Bigclothcraft, I was willing to pay a little extra for peace of mind.

Gonna be the first IPS I have owned, hopefully I can get a good refresh rate from it but I believe that the newer ones cant achieve good results, is that true?


----------



## Nishinku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> Just ordered a pixel perfect model from Bigclothcraft, I was willing to pay a little extra for peace of mind.
> Gonna be the first IPS I have owned, hopefully I can get a good refresh rate from it but I believe that the newer ones cant achieve good results, is that true?


Seems from the word going around that the newer models can only be oc'ed to 67hz, but i've seen some people get them to 100hz with recently bought monitors. So i guess there is a chance you get one that will OC.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> Just ordered a pixel perfect model from Bigclothcraft, I was willing to pay a little extra for peace of mind.
> Gonna be the first IPS I have owned, hopefully I can get a good refresh rate from it but I believe that the newer ones cant achieve good results, is that true?


67Hz maximum is what you are most likely to get, there is about 1000/1 chance that you will get one that does overclock more, but don't hold you breath.

The good overclocking model was the early 2B model, they now ship 2D and 2E models.


----------



## 260870

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nishinku*
> 
> Seems from the word going around that the newer models can only be oc'ed to 67hz, but i've seen some people get them to 100hz with recently bought monitors. So i guess there is a chance you get one that will OC.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> 67Hz maximum is what you are most likely to get, there is about 1000/1 chance that you will get one that does overclock more, but don't hold you breath.
> 
> The good overclocking model was the early 2B model, they now ship 2D and 2E models.


Yeah I thought so. Didn't someone mod his 2D or 2E model to make it better?


----------



## futr_vision

Quick question. I've owned/own TN panels and unless I buy them at the same time you can see the difference in color and brightness. On the older monitors white is more yellow and dim. I imagine this has something to do with the aging of the CCFL backlight. If I buy only one Catleap now and then another down the road am I likely to have the same experience? I want to get uniform color and brightness across all monitors.


----------



## futr_vision

$300ish for a 27 IPS panel at the moment does seem like a great deal but I am starting to see sub $200 23" IPS monitors hit the market. LG has promised lower priced IPS monitors too. $300 might not be so hot of a deal in the near future. Much like the 256GB SD I bought recently. I got a deal at sub $300. Now you can get a brand name 256GB SSD, like a Samsung, for under $250. The prices have dropped that fast. It'll be interesting to see how this plays out over the coming months.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> $300ish for a 27 IPS panel at the moment does seem like a great deal but I am starting to see sub $200 23" IPS monitors hit the market. LG has promised lower priced IPS monitors too. $300 might not be so hot of a deal in the near future. Much like the 256GB SD I bought recently. I got a deal at sub $300. Now you can get a brand name 256GB SSD, like a Samsung, for under $250. The prices have dropped that fast. It'll be interesting to see how this plays out over the coming months.


There's a massive difference between a 1080p 23"and a 27" 1440p, $300 dollars for the latter is simply a deal i honestly can't see getting better by more than 15-25 dollars


----------



## mott555

Does anybody know what the difference is between the overclockable and non-overclockable controller boards? I know there's another site working on getting boards produced, but I was hoping we're lucky enough that the difference is just a few analog components such as resistors/capacitors, so we could easily swap out some small components and make a non-overclockable screen overclockable. Or is it something larger like a logic chip? Or just a totally different board design?

Anybody know?


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> Just ordered a pixel perfect model from Bigclothcraft, I was willing to pay a little extra for peace of mind.
> Gonna be the first IPS I have owned, hopefully I can get a good refresh rate from it but I believe that the newer ones cant achieve good results, is that true?


Btw.. Make sure to read your ebay messages. He might send you a couple of questions. If you don't answer the questions, he will not ship the monitor. I bought the monitor on the 24th and he marked it as shipped.. So i figured everything was good to go. So i went on vacation for the weekend. Came back on Tuesday and the tracking number has not been updated. So i answered the questions Tuesday and he replied back saying he will update the tracking number and have it shipped out soon.


----------



## Ferling Design

for those who need a voltage converter for USA, they sell them at radio shack.


----------



## futr_vision

We need voltage converters for the Catleaps in the US?


----------



## shadcrkd

Why is everything sold on only ebay? Wouldn't it make more sense to just create a site and accept cards directly that way? Ebay is taking, what, 8%, then paypal takes 1%? Doesn't seem too bad but 25 bucks per monitor that could come off the price would be nice.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mott555*
> 
> Does anybody know what the difference is between the overclockable and non-overclockable controller boards? I know there's another site working on getting boards produced, but I was hoping we're lucky enough that the difference is just a few analog components such as resistors/capacitors, so we could easily swap out some small components and make a non-overclockable screen overclockable. Or is it something larger like a logic chip? Or just a totally different board design?
> Anybody


They are very different, different chips, different connectors.

If you go to the other site you can see pictures of both.

Edit : Have a look at the OP of this thread, OC vs NON-OC internals


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> We need voltage converters for the Catleaps in the US?


No you do not - I think he is only saying if you get a 230/240v only brick as was pictured above. Almost all have come with the Welltronics brick also pictured above that is 110v-240v.


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> We need voltage converters for the Catleaps in the US?


It depends what the voltage input is on the brick the seller sends you with the monitor... here in USA we are 110v ,The voltage throughout Europe is 220-240v.

but in most cases you should end up with a brick that goes from 110v-240v. So if it doesn't start at 110v than you will need a converter.

Edit: scribby beat me to it


----------



## jaydubb

this monitor is fantastic, had it for about 3 weeks now and it is amazing. highly recommend!









note: mine came with more than 5 dead pixels but they are hardly noticable...screen has to be completely black and i need to stare at it a few inches away to even see it...also the seller i bought it from (dcsamsungmall) gave me a partial refund for the extra dead pixels i got.


----------



## CursiveQ

update: greensum replied to me and asked me for pictures of the power brick and the monitor. i sent it to him and he said "thanks i'll show the manufacture sorry about the invonvenience" i hope that doesn't mean that its the end of story and i'm not going to get a refund/replacement.


----------



## Sensai

Hey guys. Been reading/watching the thread for a while and finally had to sign up to ask a question:

I'm pretty ready to jump on the bandwagon and order up one of these things, but I don't know which seller to purchase from. greensum and bigclothcraft seem like the two best choices, but I'm not sure from which to buy. I notice that BCC has, in his pictures, a bit about 'free express' and then, in the description, a bit about 'checking monitor before shipping for free.' I assume that the former is just 'it'll arrive sooner rather than later' and the latter is NOT the equivalent of the Perfect Pixel. What, then, is the latter? He just turns it on to make sure that it functions? I suppose that might be worth the extra bang for the buck. Speaking of spending extra cash for reassurance, how much is the 'perfect pixel' deal really worth? I saw earlier in the thread that just because it has that does not mean that it will come without dead/stuck pixels, just makes it more likely that it'll be clear. I'm wondering if saving the extra 50 is worth taking the risk.

Another question: as someone who's not huge into tweaking monitor settings, how worried should I be about the backlight bleeding/lack of OSD? I'm OCD about a lot of things, but the monitor I'm using now, I'm fairly sure, is a POS. Surely this would be a step up in every single way.

Finally, my last question: how many 'hidden fees' are there for shipping it to the US? I've seen some reports of there being none (yay!) and others of it being upwards of $80 (boo!). Can someone give me an approximation?

Thanks for your time and here's hoping I can join the club soon.


----------



## CursiveQ

For now i would recommend to go with bigclothcraft, i just received one from green sum and it was DOA. i've been in contact with him but I feel like he's brushing me off. bigclothcraft is way better at communicating and the fact that he checks the monitor is a big plus.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sensai*
> 
> Hey guys. Been reading/watching the thread for a while and finally had to sign up to ask a question:
> I'm pretty ready to jump on the bandwagon and order up one of these things, but I don't know which seller to purchase from. greensum and bigclothcraft seem like the two best choices, but I'm not sure from which to buy. I notice that BCC has, in his pictures, a bit about 'free express' and then, in the description, a bit about 'checking monitor before shipping for free.' I assume that the former is just 'it'll arrive sooner rather than later' and the latter is NOT the equivalent of the Perfect Pixel. What, then, is the latter? He just turns it on to make sure that it functions? I suppose that might be worth the extra bang for the buck. Speaking of spending extra cash for reassurance, how much is the 'perfect pixel' deal really worth? I saw earlier in the thread that just because it has that does not mean that it will come without dead/stuck pixels, just makes it more likely that it'll be clear. I'm wondering if saving the extra 50 is worth taking the risk.
> Another question: as someone who's not huge into tweaking monitor settings, how worried should I be about the backlight bleeding/lack of OSD? I'm OCD about a lot of things, but the monitor I'm using now, I'm fairly sure, is a POS. Surely this would be a step up in every single way.
> Finally, my last question: how many 'hidden fees' are there for shipping it to the US? I've seen some reports of there being none (yay!) and others of it being upwards of $80 (boo!). Can someone give me an approximation?
> Thanks for your time and here's hoping I can join the club soon.


You'll hear different opinions as of which seller. I'd say greensum but doesn't matter. All sellers have free express shipping I believe and they will all check the monitor if you get perfect pixel, and yes I think that means he will check if it functions. I went with perfect pixel and there are no dead pixels. The more annoying issue with these monitors is backlight issues, and Greensum said he checks for any major backlight bleed and fade it you get perfect pixel.

I actually prefer the simple brightness adjustment rather than a full OSD with tweaks. Nice thing is that it actually changes the brightness like you do on a phone or iPod, unlike most TN displays that just adds sort of a white mask to the picture when increasing brighness. There are lots of way to tweak via software too if you need to.

I don't think there are any fees for the US except for the UPS "brokerage" fee if your monitor is shipped via UPS. I think they ship through a Korean shipment company which passes it along to DHL, UPS, or others. I wouldn't expect any fees but don't be surprised if you're dinged like $20 at the door. I was and I'm in Canada. It arrived from DHL.


----------



## CursiveQ

it seems that everyone who was initially satisfied are starting to have major problems with these monitors.


----------



## Nick911

Don't do perfect pixel. A member told me it is a waist. Do BCC. I ordered from him and he makes sure the monitor functions and no serous issues. So the only issue you might get is a few dead pixels or ones that you can fix. Plus he does that free inspection!


----------



## rollOver

I agree, got a DOA from green sum. Was not packed in bubble wrap, just shipped in the box as-is. DHL just picked it up and now I wait!


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> I agree, got a DOA from green sum. Was not packed in bubble wrap, just shipped in the box as-is. DHL just picked it up and now I wait!


can you provide more details of your situation? because i'm dealing with an exact situation. did he offer to refund it or replace it? is he paying for return shipping?


----------



## Kosta88

BCC all the way. Great contact. Monitor checked prior to shipment, was perfect pixel. I ordered him to wait for possible 2B if he can obtain it, one month went between order and when I decided not to wait any more - got the 2D now, perfect picture, some veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeery small anomalies in full 255 red screen (not visible in any other mode than red only).
I ordered Spyder4Pro from Amazon now, decided to have it for future reference too, will calibrate it with it.
But - it's not necessary. I have it now uncalibrated and it's all a-okay.

Also Ergotron MX arm on the way. Those are extras that I decided to get for any future monitor I get.

And btw. I can't find one dead or faulty pixel. A perfect screen.

PS: I've seen some reporting a bleeding from left and right lower corner - guys, that is NO BLEED. That is officially called IPS glow and all IPS screens have it. ALL. No matter what anyone tells you. I tested about 5 of different IPS/PLS screens, and all had one and the same effect. Go bit further, like 60cm-100cm away, you won't see it any more.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> can you provide more details of your situation? because i'm dealing with an exact situation. did he offer to refund it or replace it? is he paying for return shipping?


same thing here! I ordered mione through greem-sum. It was DOA, would work for 5 min then shut off and on and off and on. I tested EVERYTHING here on the forum.. so i am dropping it off to DHL tomorrow morning.

WHat is the situation for you guys?? Is he going to exchange for a new one ... or refund you .... or what??

also... did you file any dispute through ebay at all??

thanks


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> same thing here! I ordered mione through greem-sum. It was DOA, would work for 5 min then shut off and on and off and on. I tested EVERYTHING here on the forum.. so i am dropping it off to DHL tomorrow morning.
> WHat is the situation for you guys?? Is he going to exchange for a new one ... or refund you .... or what??
> also... did you file any dispute through ebay at all??
> thanks


he hasn't indicated what he's going to do to resolve my situation yet except that he's going to contact the manufacturer. is he replacing or refunding yours? is he covering the shipping cost?

i didn't file a dispute or leave bad feedback yet, i wanted to give him a chance to rectify the situation. but if he doesn't fix it soon i'm just going to file a dispute.


----------



## kylerstrawn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> he hasn't indicated what he's going to do to resolve my situation yet except that he's going to contact the manufacturer. is he replacing or refunding yours? is he covering the shipping cost?
> i didn't file a dispute or leave bad feedback yet, i wanted to give him a chance to rectify the situation. but if he doesn't fix it soon i'm just going to file a dispute.


He gave me the information to have it shipped back. he said he would take care of the situation. Very vague... I have left him several messages today with no reply. I will let you know when I know more. Please do the same, thanks.


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> He gave me the information to have it shipped back. he said he would take care of the situation. Very vague... I have left him several messages today with no reply. I will let you know when I know more. Please do the same, thanks.


i'll keep you updated, if he's given you the information to ship it back then he's already covering your return cost correct?


----------



## Degree

I'm about to order from Bigclothcraft, is the DVI cable included?
The power brick and everything that's included I can use in the USA right?
So if I order this, I don't need to buy anything else?

Thanks!


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I'm about to order from Bigclothcraft, is the DVI cable included?
> The power brick and everything that's included I can use in the USA right?
> So if I order this, I don't need to buy anything else?
> Thanks!


the DVI cable is included, the power brick he ships should be good for US use. I'm not sure if bigclothcraft includes the adapter, but if he doesn't a standard power supply/monitor cable will work with the power brick.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> the DVI cable is included, the power brick he ships should be good for US use. I'm not sure if bigclothcraft includes the adapter, but if he doesn't a standard power supply/monitor cable will work with the power brick.


Alright thanks!


----------



## dctravis

How long are the dvi cables normally?


----------



## bukkit

finally got around to taking a picture since my new desk came a while ago, got the big galant because i wanted the space. the second picture is for people who are thinking of getting the ergotron mx stand. it's worth it.


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> i'll keep you updated, if he's given you the information to ship it back then he's already covering your return cost correct?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylerstrawn*
> 
> He gave me the information to have it shipped back. he said he would take care of the situation. Very vague... I have left him several messages today with no reply. I will let you know when I know more. Please do the same, thanks.


Just wanted to let you guys know about my situation with green-sum. My catleap died after a week of use and I contacted him about it. It seems that he has to contact the manufacture about everything like this, and that seems to be why he takes so long to respond sometimes. But after a few days he eventually responded with the shipping information and gave me his DHL information so the shipping would be charged to his account. The package just shipped today and should arrive to him on Friday or Monday... I sent him the tracking number as he requested and he told me he would message me when it arrives. I'll update you guys with what happens.

Also, what's up with all the DOA/Dead/Dying catleaps from green-sum lately? Bad batch or something?

Out of curiosity, did you guys order perfect pixel or not?


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Just wanted to let you guys know about my situation with green-sum. My catleap died after a week of use and I contacted him about it. It seems that he has to contact the manufacture about everything like this, and that seems to be why he takes so long to respond sometimes. But after a few days he eventually responded with the shipping information and gave me his DHL information so the shipping would be charged to his account. The package just shipped today and should arrive to him on Friday or Monday... I sent him the tracking number as he requested and he told me he would message me when it arrives. I'll update you guys with what happens.
> Also, what's up with all the DOA/Dead/Dying catleaps from green-sum lately? Bad batch or something?
> Out of curiosity, did you guys order perfect pixel or not?


mine is not a perfect pixel. is he planning to refund you the money or sending you a replacement?


----------



## asuperpower

Mine should arrive tonight... I can't wait.


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> mine is not a perfect pixel. is he planning to refund you the money or sending you a replacement?


No refund, he's either going to replace or repair it I suppose.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuperpower*
> 
> Mine should arrive tonight... I can't wait.


Who'd did you buy from if you don't mind me asking.


----------



## Koehler

So who's the best and most reliable seller? I'm thinking of buying one just to try it out. Heard they have excellent color quality and the 120Hz is a bonus.


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> So who's the best and most reliable seller? I'm thinking of buying one just to try it out. Heard they have excellent color quality and the 120Hz is a bonus.


Only the very early versions could hit 120hz and thats with specific GPUs only. Most others could hit 85-100hz.
Though thats basically null anyway. The only way to get one of those versions is buy one from a limited run for $460 that we can't give info on here.

Make sure you know the risks and are sure this monitor fits your need before you pull the trigger. A lot of problems _can_ arise from getting one of these. From excessive backlight bleed, dead pixels, DOA, bad power bricks, etc.

That said it is very cheap and not too likely you'll get a bad one.
I'll probably be getting one soon.(Or another korean variant)

Bigclothcraft seems to be a good seller for these from what I read.


----------



## Sensai

Long post coming, as so many of you were so helpful and quick with responses. Thanks to everyone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> For now i would recommend to go with bigclothcraft, i just received one from green sum and it was DOA. i've been in contact with him but I feel like he's brushing me off. bigclothcraft is way better at communicating and the fact that he checks the monitor is a big plus.


Thanks. BCC seems to be the general consensus. It also seems, and maybe I'm just seeing things, that the recent monitors from greensum seem to be having some problems. Maybe it's a bad collection or just bad luck, but either way, that doesn't sound like something worth risking (as I imagine shipping these things back to get them repaired is a total pain).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> You'll hear different opinions as of which seller. I'd say greensum but doesn't matter. All sellers have free express shipping...and they will all check the monitor if you get perfect pixel...The more annoying issue with these monitors is backlight issues, and Greensum said he checks for any major backlight bleed and fade it you get perfect pixel.
> 
> [talking about brightness/lack of OSD]
> 
> I don't think there are any fees for the US except for the UPS "brokerage" fee if your monitor is shipped via UPS..


Thanks for the reply. So, perfect pixel IS something to go for, in your opinion? I was under the impression that PP just meant he would check to make sure there aren't X amount of dead pixels in Y area (there's a chart somewhere, but I can't seem to find it). How substantial a problem is the backlight bleed? I see some complaining about it, others saying that it's totally normal. If I'm sitting in a dark room trying to watch a movie, how badly would it irk me?

Thanks for the information on the brightness/fees as well. An extra 20 dollars at the door wouldn't be too bad, really.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick911*
> Don't do perfect pixel....Do BCC. I ordered from him and he makes sure the monitor functions and no serous issues. So the only issue you might get is a few dead pixels or ones that you can fix. Plus he does that free inspection!


I imagine that on a monitor of this side, I'd really, REALLY have to look for dead pixels, so I'm not terribly worried about that. What I am worried about, something that PP might solve, is the monitor exploding or setting itself aflame when I try to turn it on. If they checked the pixels, they might notice major issues with it before I get around to having it. But that inspection that BCC does makes me think PP might not be worth it (as he's already doing the inspection and I'm not like to notice two or three pixels).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kosta88*
> BCC all the way. Great contact. Monitor checked prior to shipment, was perfect pixel. I ordered him to wait for possible 2B if he can obtain it, one month went between order and when I decided not to wait any more - got the 2D now, perfect picture, some veeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeery small anomalies in full 255 red screen (not visible in any other mode than red only)....
> 
> ...
> 
> PS: I've seen some reporting a bleeding from left and right lower corner - guys, that is NO BLEED. That is officially called IPS glow and all IPS screens have it. ALL. No matter what anyone tells you. I tested about 5 of different IPS/PLS screens, and all had one and the same effect. Go bit further, like 60cm-100cm away, you won't see it any more.


BCC sounds like the resounding winner in 'favorite vendor.' Are the 2B's that much better? I know they can be OCed, but I've no idea how to do that and not sure I'd like to risk/try it even if I had the option.

Glad to hear that about the bleed. Not sure if that makes it any less annoying or not though, haha.


----------



## burksdb

Contacted green-sum about the issues i was having and after a couple of emails back and forth he agreed it needed to be replaced and before i asked about shipping he had already offered to cover shipping the monitor back to Korea for replacement.


----------



## avattz

I ordered two more of these yesterday and today I was upgraded to the model with speakers. I really don't care for the speakers but will having them give me a different circuit board, or is it something I can remove inside (I need to open it anway to remove the silver arc for monitor arm)? The reason for the question is that I'd like to have a uniform display across all three but in color calibration people have said that their is a noticable difference between the 2b models and the rest (due to different circuit board design).


----------



## CursiveQ

*UPDATE:* greensum says that the monitor needs to be shipped back and inspected before we can decide what to do. he's offered to pay for the return shipping.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Please remember we do not allow eBay links.


----------



## dougcbj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *summercrush*
> 
> Whats the input lag and smearing difference between that HDMI DP model and the DVI only model? is it relevant?


Do you have one of these monitors already? I can tell you as a person that is very, very tuned to notice input lag and smearing (I have a Samsung PX2370 which if you've never seen one, it has almost zero input lag and a responsive time of faster than 2ms), the DVI only version, I cannot notice any input lag compared to my Samsung. As for smearing I notice it a little, but it isn't something that 99.9999% of people would notice, I can only notice it because I'm used to the Samsung which doesn't smear at all, but the Yamakasi does smear less than my Samsung UN46D6400 television.

From what I have heard though, the multi input model does increase input lag about 1.5X's but it still comes in under 1 frame so it should still not be noticeable to anyone no matter what monitor or television they are used to. The smearing I haven't heard anything about though, I think they are still listed at 8ms so smearing should be identical to the single input I'd assume. Me personally though, I wouldn't get the multi input because the input lag hangs a little to close to 1 frame and I think it is something I would notice. I already use the Samsung monitor for my PS3, but if I were to be buying a second for computer gaming, I don't think I'd go with the multi input monitor because of the input lag.


----------



## corpjones

I'm going to buy one of these but just need some help with a quick question, how can I tell which one have a glass front? I want to avoid the glass front as I read somewhere in the forum about dust issues.

e.g. I saw a perfectpixel one from BigClothCraft who i've seen recommended here, described as "Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor" is that ok to go for or will it have a glass front?

Many thanks


----------



## Nick911

THERE IS NO INPUT LAG

THERE IS NO OVERCLOCKING PAST 70Hz. They are all GONE!

DON'T do pixel perfect, tis a scam!

BCC is the one to buy from

Hopefully this will stop allot of the same questions


----------



## Exolaris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick911*
> 
> THERE IS NO INPUT LAG
> THERE IS NO OVERCLOCKING PAST 70Hz. They are all GONE!
> DON'T do pixel perfect, tis a scam!
> BCC is the one to buy from
> Hopefully this will stop allot of the same questions


How exactly is pixel perfect a scam? Paying a $50 premium to ensure there are zero dead pixels? What's wrong with that?


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick911*
> 
> THERE IS NO INPUT LAG


What? Multi has more input lag than SE, it's fact. Someone linked a benchmark chart before.


----------



## DRatchet

Wow it looks like 5-6 people on here received bad monitors that were DOA or died quickly from green-sum within the past week or so. He must have a bad batch from the manufacturer or something. I hope he realizes this... I really hope he doesn't replace mine with another one from the same batch that would be destined to fail also.


----------



## corpjones

I need to buy one! can someone tell me how I can avoid buying a glass fronted model


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nick911*
> 
> THERE IS NO INPUT LAG
> THERE IS NO OVERCLOCKING PAST 70Hz. They are all GONE!
> DON'T do pixel perfect, tis a scam!
> BCC is the one to buy from
> Hopefully this will stop allot of the same questions


BCC just listed ten 2B models on ebay, so not all gone, but he is looking $500


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> I'm going to buy one of these but just need some help with a quick question, how can I tell which one have a glass front? I want to avoid the glass front as I read somewhere in the forum about dust issues.
> e.g. I saw a perfectpixel one from BigClothCraft who i've seen recommended here, described as "Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor" is that ok to go for or will it have a glass front?
> Many thanks


The ones with glass on the front will have "Tempered Glass" or something like that in the title. The one you posted does not have tempered glass.


----------



## CallsignVega

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> BCC just listed ten 2B models on ebay, so not all gone, but he is looking $500


Unfortunately those are the crappy multi-input versions with scalar and input lag.


----------



## plum

Yep, getting one for console gaming or watching movies is worthless.. those don't even go beyond 30 fps. Save yourself some money and get the 60hz.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

The pixel perfect option has been hit or miss for people. I have seen people pay for it and still get a dead pixel or two. I have four of these and only one as one dead pixel - I did not buy the checking. But that is me since with well over 3 million pixels I could stand up to 5 dead in the panel. Your results may vary!


----------



## Pokerkid777

Hey guys new to the club. I recently got this monitor to hook my ps3 up with but no image is displayed. I tried everything in the "help" area but still nothing.I'm using a dvi-hdmi cord to hook it up. I have noticed that if I hold down the power long enough there will be a flash from the monitor. thanks!


----------



## Marcsrx

OK. Can someone please list which model is the OC'able one that is not "scalar" and multi-input. I understand its a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 with the 2b PCB. What else am I looking for in-terms of slow response etc.


----------



## Nick911

SE model will not have noticeable lag and will be fine to use. Should have posted that but thought it was a given.

Pixel perfect is a scam because there is no guarantee it will be. They don't have tight tolerances like we do. I decided not to since it is a waist of money. Plus the amount of time and effort to make sure it is, is crazy!

As I sad before there is no OC model anymore. Has bin fazed out.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> can you provide more details of your situation? because i'm dealing with an exact situation. did he offer to refund it or replace it? is he paying for return shipping?


Green sum provided his DHL account, just had to arrange for a pick-up (no cost). He said he would have to send it back to the factory for repair or replacement (their choice). The monitor I received was completely dead, the brick worked but the monitor would not power on. Once I described what was going on, sent him a picture (what's up with that?) and then answered his questions he sent the address and DHL without further hassle.

I will also keep the thread updated, look forward to seeing how this works out for us all!


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pokerkid777*
> 
> Hey guys new to the club. I recently got this monitor to hook my ps3 up with but no image is displayed. I tried everything in the "help" area but still nothing.I'm using a dvi-hdmi cord to hook it up. I have noticed that if I hold down the power long enough there will be a flash from the monitor. thanks!


Did you connect it to the pc to make sure the monitor works? You should had bought the multi one if you were only planning on using it for ps3. From what I read the dvi-d only version works with ps3 but at a lower resolution. Try hooking up your ps3 to your tv and change the display to a lower resolution like 480p or 720p and save settings. Then hook up the ps3 to the yamakasi and test it.


----------



## SammichThyme

I can't seem to find an actual dual link dvi cable, most of them claim to be but the reviewers tell me they aren't. Can somebody link me? I'm buying a Catleap with tempered glass tomorrow once my eBay funds become available from when I sold some stuff last month


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I can't seem to find an actual dual link dvi cable, most of them claim to be but the reviewers tell me they aren't. Can somebody link me? I'm buying a Catleap with tempered glass tomorrow once my eBay funds become available from when I sold some stuff last month


the one i got from Monoprice has been working great

Here
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Green sum provided his DHL account, just had to arrange for a pick-up (no cost). He said he would have to send it back to the factory for repair or replacement (their choice). The monitor I received was completely dead, the brick worked but the monitor would not power on. Once I described what was going on, sent him a picture (what's up with that?) and then answered his questions he sent the address and DHL without further hassle.
> I will also keep the thread updated, look forward to seeing how this works out for us all!


Same thing he asked for a few pictures and to do some minor troubleshooting then agreed that the monitor needed to be sent back and offered to cover shipping for me.

It's going to be hard switching back to my 20"


----------



## Pokerkid777

Well I tried to change the resolution and still no luck. Any reason for the strange flash of light caused when I hold down the monitor.


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *burksdb*
> 
> the one i got from Monoprice has been working great
> Here
> Same thing he asked for a few pictures and to do some minor troubleshooting then agreed that the monitor needed to be sent back and offered to cover shipping for me.
> It's going to be hard switching back to my 20"


Thanks but I'd prefer to stick with Newegg or Amazon, just because I'd rather not punch in my credit card info for a $6 cable onto a website I've never used before. Amazon would be the best. Anybody?


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> Thanks but I'd prefer to stick with Newegg or Amazon, just because I'd rather not punch in my credit card info for a $6 cable onto a website I've never used before. Amazon would be the best. Anybody?


The equivalent of what you just said is you'd rather buy something at Best Buy or Radio Shack because you've never heard of Microcenter or Fry's............ Monoprice should be the defacto place to buy anything cable related.


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pokerkid777*
> 
> Well I tried to change the resolution and still no luck. Any reason for the strange flash of light caused when I hold down the monitor.


Are you using a dual link dvi cable?


----------



## SammichThyme

I've never heard of them, I usually use cables that I buy at Marshalls, for some reason everything I get from there is great. Would still rather go Amazon of Newegg though. One more time: anybody?


----------



## SammichThyme

Oh wait, it comes with a cable! Well never mind then. Is it any good or am I finally going to have to go get my credit card?


----------



## theshape

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> Oh wait, it comes with a cable! Well never mind then. Is it any good or am I finally going to have to go get my credit card?


Included cable works fine. That's the one I'm currently using.


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> Included cable works fine. That's the one I'm currently using.


Excellent, thanks!


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> Oh wait, it comes with a cable! Well never mind then. Is it any good or am I finally going to have to go get my credit card?


i think the included cable should be fine, if you want to be safer and buy a higher quality cable and have to get ti fron newegg. this one has great reviews

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816012 (not sure if this is against the rules, if so remove this)

but like everyone said monoprice really is your best bet. they are a VERY reputable company and pretty much the default place to shop for any type of cables. good luck.


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> i think the included cable should be fine, if you want to be safer and buy a higher quality cable and have to get ti fron newegg. this one has great reviews
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816012 (not sure if this is against the rules, if so remove this)
> but like everyone said monoprice really is your best bet. they are a VERY reputable company and pretty much the default place to shop for any type of cables. good luck.


Ok thanks, I'll toss it into my cart when I build my new rig this summer, I'll use the included one for now.


----------



## SammichThyme

And I'll remember monoprice next time I need to buy a bunch of cables.


----------



## Junkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> Ok thanks, I'll toss it into my cart when I build my new rig this summer, I'll use the included one for now.


Whenever you do need some cables keep MP in mind, or look around this site or many others for everyone's thoughts on the site. They were the first place to have affordable HDMI cables back in 06/07 when the PS3 launched and EVERYONE had them for $40-$140, monoprice was still selling them for 6 bucks and up for better quality cables that were better gauge and length. I still remember one of my co workers spending 80 bucks for a $3foot HDMI cable from BB and feeling so bad for him........

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> And I'll remember monoprice next time I need to buy a bunch of cables.


I don't think you'll regret it, if you live in one of the three Norco states (CA,NV and AZ) you can get overnight shipping on most things for dirt cheap price of six bucks or so.


----------



## Pokerkid777

Yep, When I build my pc I will try to see if it displays anything. For now I would like to know what is up with the flash.


----------



## SammichThyme

Is removing the stand going to be any different on a tempered glass model? I'm either going to VESA wall mount or get a VESA stand.


----------



## Kimo

Just received my catleap. It looks beautiful imo. I'm not able to test it just yet. Waiting to order a gtx 690.


----------



## thisiskenneth

So I just placed an order for one from bigclothcraft and they just sent me these questions:

1) May I mark item as gift?
2) How much price I put on invoice?

I was wondering what you guys replied with if you are in the US.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thisiskenneth*
> 
> So I just placed an order for one from bigclothcraft and they just sent me these questions:
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> I was wondering what you guys replied with if you are in the US.


I just said mark it as a gift if it benefits you in anyway

For the price. I put whatever makes this transaction smooth lol.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thisiskenneth*
> 
> So I just placed an order for one from bigclothcraft and they just sent me these questions:
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> I was wondering what you guys replied with if you are in the US.


From what I have read I don't think it will matter much, as there is no import duty between South Korea and the US.

Edit: found it

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3300_30#post_17076087

http://www.ustr.gov/trade-agreements/free-trade-agreements/korus-fta


----------



## edo101

I need to buy a bigger monitor screen. Granted I don't have the money for a U2711H (gonna be saving up for one), I was thinking I can settle for a Korean 27"

I had a few questions about the Korean ones. picture wise (don't care much for 3 dead pixels), are they comparable to the U2711H?

Are the compatible with an HD 4850 with DVI-Dual link? I won't be gaming on this rez, i don't have much time to commit to games atm

And for the multi versions of the displays, can the do the portrait resolution of 1440*2560? THIS IS IMPORTANT FOR ME. I do a lot of reading online and portrait has become no longer a luxury but a necessity.

And for Consoles, can these do 1080p on PS3?


----------



## theshape

should be compatible with hd 4850. This monitor does not pivot so no portrait mode unless you replace the stand. multi works with ps3 at 1080p.


----------



## edo101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> should be compatible with hd 4850. This monitor does not pivot so no portrait mode unless you replace the stand. multi works with ps3 at 1080p.


yeah I would replace stand but would it be able to display 1440*2560? I've heard their are some bugs with resolutions


----------



## theshape

I just switched to portrait mode and i had no issues. I don't use that day to day though.


----------



## edo101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theshape*
> 
> I just switched to portrait mode and i had no issues. I don't use that day to day though.


sweet thanks, that's very reassuring, I use it a lot, especially with homework


----------



## Onoroian

got my catleap on tuesday ,not realizing a 5870 E6 card couldnt run it
just ordered a 680,hoping the catleap is all good


----------



## iamtall

Just bought 2 Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor's. They arrived yesterday afternoon (according to the despatch info i got they arrived from Korea to Perth, Western Australia in 2 days! seems oddly quick)

They were well packed. I set them up quickly last night just to check them over, no dead pixels from what i can see. everything went together well.

today i went through the process of overclocking them (using a GTX590 card) and it doesn't seem to work. I've set up the custom profile but when i switch the monitors over i just get a black screen until the time out passes and then it goes back to normal. Not overly concerned if i cant get up to 100hz.

The screens look great tho. there's slight and i mean tiny colour variance in them, when side by side. But I'm sure i can sort that out with some calibration.

To all owners. are there any (other) start up processes i should do or calibrations i should perform with the inital setup?


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onoroian*
> 
> got my catleap on tuesday ,not realizing a 5870 E6 card couldnt run it
> just ordered a 680,hoping the catleap is all good


It can if you have DP->DVI adapter. You might need a powered one though :/


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iamtall*
> 
> Just bought 2 Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor's. They arrived yesterday afternoon (according to the despatch info i got they arrived from Korea to Perth, Western Australia in 2 days! seems oddly quick)
> They were well packed. I set them up quickly last night just to check them over, no dead pixels from what i can see. everything went together well.
> today i went through the process of overclocking them (using a GTX590 card) and it doesn't seem to work. I've set up the custom profile but when i switch the monitors over i just get a black screen until the time out passes and then it goes back to normal. Not overly concerned if i cant get up to 100hz.
> The screens look great tho. there's slight and i mean tiny colour variance in them, when side by side. But I'm sure i can sort that out with some calibration.
> To all owners. are there any (other) start up processes i should do or calibrations i should perform with the inital setup?


What was the model number on the side of the box ? (2B, 2C, 2D, 2E )

You get the black screen when the monitor can not handle the refresh rate, try 67Hz then 70Hz.


----------



## ryandigweed

Wow, this looks like a great thread. Thanks for creating this thread and informing us about this good budget brand







.. I will definitely consider this brand if it's available to me


----------



## Abominator

I'm considering buying one of these. I found some relatively cheap ones (~$500) with free postage, free pixel perfect/back light bleeding checking and they happen to have 2b pcb panels. In the end they will workout to be ~$300 than a dell u2711 or a samsung S27a850D. Plus given the fact that I have been destroyed the last few days trying to decide between a 120hz monitor or 2560x1440 monitor this does seem quite ideal. I can get my money back shoulder their be major fault minus ~$100 for shipping but that seems like a worthy risk. Should I take the plunge? Or play it safe and go with a u2711 or a S27A850D? I won't hold anyone liable but advice would be massively appreciated.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> I'm considering buying one of these. I found some relatively cheap ones (~$500) with free postage, free pixel perfect/back light bleeding checking and they happen to have 2b pcb panels.


Where? are you talking about the Multis?
Would def go for the korean monitors, Dell premiums are a waste of money


----------



## Passion

Hey all,

I am considering getting a Catleap monitor and doing a PLP (Portrait-Landscape-Portrait) setup with two Dell U2312HM. I am comparing the sizes to see if all the monitors would line up perfectly.

I am missing information on the Catleap demensions without the stand. Can anyone provide this for me? Your help would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## dctravis

Well i ordered mine on wednesday and got a call today from a lady at fedex in their customs department saying that i have to fill out a "statement regardingthe importatio of radio frequency devices capable of causing harmful interference" and that it would not leave customs until it was submitted... so did my seller screw up his paperwork? Ive filled it out but j dont know what to put for trade name and manufacturers name and address... and help is appreciated.


----------



## apav

Quick question, why would people pay more money for the Tempered Glass version if it just lets dust collect behind it? Maybe there are some benefits I don't know of.

Considering this monitor or the Shimian. Can't decide! :O I guess the only difference is the stand.. So I guess whatever monitor tilts on the stand less?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Quick question, why would people pay more money for the Tempered Glass version if it just lets dust collect behind it? Maybe there are some benefits I don't know of.
> Considering this monitor or the Shimian. Can't decide! :O I guess the only difference is the stand.. So I guess whatever monitor tilts on the stand less?


I think most get it because of the look, more than any actual benefit. The reason there are tempered glass ones is more due to these monitors being used in Korean 'bangs' or gamer lounges. The glass protects the underlying screen.


----------



## Kimo

So i tested the monitor i bought from bigclothcraft. There is nothing wrong with it. No dead pixels no nothing. I love it and it looks amazing. I ordered the 320$ Non perfect pixel.


----------



## Ferling Design

I got a notice from dhl yesterday, which was on a friday. I was not home to sign :[

Now i gotta wait two more days to have my 2560x1440 ips led delicious monitor. lame

Will update ya guys soon (ordered from green-sum)


----------



## Nishinku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> I got a notice from dhl yesterday, which was on a friday. I was not home to sign :[
> Now i gotta wait two more days to have my 2560x1440 ips led delicious monitor. lame
> Will update ya guys soon (ordered from green-sum)


Exactly same situation here









Got a note that it was delivered an hour before i got home from work >.< So i had to have it redelivered to work this monday.


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> So i tested the monitor i bought from bigclothcraft. There is nothing wrong with it. No dead pixels no nothing. I love it and it looks amazing. I ordered the 320$ Non perfect pixel.


SWEEEEEET


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nishinku*
> 
> Exactly same situation here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a note that it was delivered an hour before i got home from work >.< So i had to have it redelivered to work this monday.


Yea, i was stuck at work as well... i tried calling them but they were not in.

how did you have the location changed for delivery?


----------



## apav

So I decided to get a Catleap. I highly doubt I will be investing any more money into a stand since I won't be adjusting the monitor. As long as it doesn't move when I type or wobble on it's own...

Which seller do you guys recommend me buying from? Bigclothcraft checks all of their monitors for defects before shipping for free and people here have had many good expereinces with them, but I also discovered another seller called Pallascospi, where it will arrive in 1-2 days. Reviews from that seller also appear to be good.

Decisions decisions... do I want to wait a day or two extra before the seller ships me ontop of the 3-5 listed shipping time? Or (for the most part) are chances good for getting a perfect monitor? If the extra day or two of checking it isn't working out, should I just go with the quicker seller?


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> So I decided to get a Catleap. I highly doubt I will be investing any more money into a stand since I won't be adjusting the monitor. As long as it doesn't move when I type or wobble on it's own...
> Which seller do you guys recommend me buying from? Bigclothcraft checks all of their monitors for defects before shipping for free and people here have had many good expereinces with them, but I also discovered another seller called Pallascospi, where it will arrive in 1-2 days. Reviews from that seller also appear to be good.
> Decisions decisions... do I want to wait a day or two extra before the seller ships me ontop of the 3-5 listed shipping time? Or (for the most part) are chances good for getting a perfect monitor? If the extra day or two of checking it isn't working out, should I just go with the quicker seller?


my monitor from bigclothcraft arrived in 3 days. only $297, can't find a single dead pixel, really happy with it.


----------



## corpjones

I've made an offer of £270 for the perfectpixel Q270 from BCC, I am trying to buy it thru their shop as the squaretrade warranty option only comes up there, I can get it for £252 but no squaretrade option.

How did you get it for $297? cheapest from BCC seems to be £252.


----------



## Abominator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Where? are you talking about the Multis?
> Would def go for the korean monitors, Dell premiums are a waste of money


Yeah the multi's from bigclothcraft, what does the 'multi' part mean when regarding a Q270?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Where? are you talking about the Multis?
> Would def go for the korean monitors, Dell premiums are a waste of money
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah the multi's from bigclothcraft, what does the 'multi' part mean when regarding a Q270?
Click to expand...

Multi has multiple inputs (D VI + HDMI) and suffers from high input lag due to the scaler


----------



## Abominator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Multi has multiple inputs (D VI + HDMI) and suffers from high input lag due to the scaler


Ah I assumed as much about the inputs, although I'm not too happy about the increased latency, is there an exact value to the input lag ie 20ms? I tihnk it's a good compromise though for the scaler because I'll be playing my xbox on this aswell as my PC. Will the monitor scale my xbox to 2560x1440 or will it remain at 1920x1080? If it remains at 1920x1080 is it distorted or looks fine like any 27" 1920x1080. Thanks.


----------



## mott555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> So I decided to get a Catleap. I highly doubt I will be investing any more money into a stand since I won't be adjusting the monitor. As long as it doesn't move when I type or wobble on it's own...
> 
> Which seller do you guys recommend me buying from? Bigclothcraft checks all of their monitors for defects before shipping for free and people here have had many good expereinces with them, but I also discovered another seller called Pallascospi, where it will arrive in 1-2 days. Reviews from that seller also appear to be good.
> 
> Decisions decisions... do I want to wait a day or two extra before the seller ships me ontop of the 3-5 listed shipping time? Or (for the most part) are chances good for getting a perfect monitor? If the extra day or two of checking it isn't working out, should I just go with the quicker seller?


I got mine from Pallascospi. No complaints, in fact it shipped from South Korea to my house in rural Missouri in only two days!

It does wobble when I type. But I type softly so it isn't too big a deal, it just about falls over when my roommate uses my PC though. Even trying to push the power button on it is enough to start some crazy wobbling.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> Ah I assumed as much about the inputs, although I'm not too happy about the increased latency, is there an exact value to the input lag ie 20ms? I tihnk it's a good compromise though for the scaler because I'll be playing my xbox on this aswell as my PC. Will the monitor scale my xbox to 2560x1440 or will it remain at 1920x1080? If it remains at 1920x1080 is it distorted or looks fine like any 27" 1920x1080. Thanks.


I don't know the input lag for that type, but it does scale it to 1920x1080 and it will look fine. Like using a 27 inch 1080p tv/monitor.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mott555*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> So I decided to get a Catleap. I highly doubt I will be investing any more money into a stand since I won't be adjusting the monitor. As long as it doesn't move when I type or wobble on it's own...
> 
> Which seller do you guys recommend me buying from? Bigclothcraft checks all of their monitors for defects before shipping for free and people here have had many good expereinces with them, but I also discovered another seller called Pallascospi, where it will arrive in 1-2 days. Reviews from that seller also appear to be good.
> 
> Decisions decisions... do I want to wait a day or two extra before the seller ships me ontop of the 3-5 listed shipping time? Or (for the most part) are chances good for getting a perfect monitor? If the extra day or two of checking it isn't working out, should I just go with the quicker seller?
> 
> 
> 
> I got mine from Pallascospi. No complaints, in fact it shipped from South Korea to my house in rural Missouri in only two days!
> 
> It does wobble when I type. But I type softly so it isn't too big a deal, it just about falls over when my roommate uses my PC though. Even trying to push the power button on it is enough to start some crazy wobbling.
Click to expand...

Wow that doesn't sound too good. It sounds like kind of a pain to get the stand off of these.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wow that doesn't sound too good. It sounds like kind of a pain to get the stand off of these.


It's not hard at all to get the stand off. Just follow the guide in the OP, and take your time. Remember that there are sensitive components and connections inside, and handle it accordingly.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> my monitor from bigclothcraft arrived in 3 days. only $297, can't find a single dead pixel, really happy with it.


Same here, but mine took 2 days. Shipped out on Monday and got here Wednesday.

From S Korea to Southern California.


----------



## apav

One more question. I want to avoid future problems with the stand so I want to get a VESA stand or wall mount for it. Here's what my desk looks like:







(Ignore that line in the center of the third picture. It's not even there when I look at the wall.)

So as you can see, my desk is against a corner. The space is a lot bigger than it looks, but I'm not sure if I have enough space for a 27" mounted on a wall because of the shelves above me. So I'd most likely go with a stand. I have a bad habit of shaking my legs- I don't think it's as serious as restless leg syndrome though. So I don't want the monitor shaking from me shaking the desk!


----------



## Nishinku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> Yea, i was stuck at work as well... i tried calling them but they were not in.
> how did you have the location changed for delivery?


They left a note with a number i could call to have it moved. Also you can go to the homepage (my case being in denmark its) www.dhl.dk/2 i assume its the same for all countries, just www.dhl.com/2 etc.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Wow that doesn't sound too good. It sounds like kind of a pain to get the stand off of these.
> 
> 
> 
> It's not hard at all to get the stand off. Just follow the guide in the OP, and take your time. Remember that there are sensitive components and connections inside, and handle it accordingly.
Click to expand...

Yah I was just looking at the guide. Seems a little nerve racking to do all that right away. Never really opened a monitor. Not that I couldn't do it just would prefer it to be a bit easier.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yah I was just looking at the guide. Seems a little nerve racking to do all that right away. Never really opened a monitor. Not that I couldn't do it just would prefer it to be a bit easier.


Same, I'm worried I might damage the panel in the process








Or missed a step, or something


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yah I was just looking at the guide. Seems a little nerve racking to do all that right away. Never really opened a monitor. Not that I couldn't do it just would prefer it to be a bit easier.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Same, I'm worried I might damage the panel in the process
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Or missed a step, or something


I never would have opened a monitor, but I thought the instructions were clear enough. My only minor regret is not using something plastic to separate the bezel. Had a few gouges from the screwdriver, but it's not noticeable. Other than that, it came apart very easy. I did it on my bed, as I thought the space and cushion would help.


----------



## lightsout

Yes me too.


----------



## apav

Can't decide between BCC or Green-Sum!

I know that their power bricks can be hit and miss, which seller has better suited ones for America?


----------



## Polarity

accessorieswhole .......


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Polarity*
> 
> accessorieswhole .......


Doesn't sell Catleaps!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I never would have opened a monitor, but I thought the instructions were clear enough. My only minor regret is not using something plastic to separate the bezel. Had a few gouges from the screwdriver, but it's not noticeable. Other than that, it came apart very easy. I did it on my bed, as I thought the space and cushion would help.


Yea I'm worried I might damage the bezel when prying it open, oh well.

Do you guys know any good stands?


----------



## eternal7trance

Anyone else's monitor running really hot? Mine is almost like a space heater.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Yea I'm worried I might damage the bezel when prying it open, oh well.
> Do you guys know any good stands?


Debating on which one to get of these two. Both great stands, can't be beat for the price.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=4

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

I'm leaning towards the first one since I don't need the height adjustment, and I don't want to look at this pole above my monitor.

Which seller did you order from?

Edit: For the second one, don't let the 10-23 inch specifications fool you. Someone on OCN is using it fine. See here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2040#post_16868704


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yah I was just looking at the guide. Seems a little nerve racking to do all that right away. Never really opened a monitor. Not that I couldn't do it just would prefer it to be a bit easier.


What guide?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Debating on which one to get of these two. Both great stands, can't be beat for the price.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5402&seq=1&format=4
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> I'm leaning towards the first one since I don't need the height adjustment, and I don't want to look at this pole above my monitor.
> Which seller did you order from?
> Edit: For the second one, don't let the 10-23 inch specifications fool you. Someone on OCN is using it fine. See here:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2040#post_16868704


I think I'll go with the second one, as I don't want to mount it on my wall and seeing the stand below my monitor doesn't bother me at all








It looks amazing from that person with the catleap.

I didn't order yet, if I were to, I think I'll go with bigclothcraft.
Unless there's the 2B ones available, but the only ones that are, are the multi versions which I don't want.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Yah I was just looking at the guide. Seems a little nerve racking to do all that right away. Never really opened a monitor. Not that I couldn't do it just would prefer it to be a bit easier.
> 
> 
> 
> What guide?
Click to expand...

Its in the OP.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I think I'll go with the second one, as I don't want to mount it on my wall and seeing the stand below my monitor doesn't bother me at all
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks amazing from that person with the catleap.
> I didn't order yet, if I were to, I think I'll go with bigclothcraft.
> Unless there's the 2B ones available, but the only ones that are, are the multi versions which I don't want.


The first one is not a wall mount. It clamps to your desk like this:
http://www.wsgf.org/forum/11518/monoprice-3-way-adjustable-monitor-arms-triple-setup

It's only one arm though per purchase, the guy just bought 3









Edit: The only reason I don't want to go with that second one is because the pole is so freaking tall! If you look at Omekone's pcitrue you'll undertstand:


I am going to have to saw off a piece of that pole just so it isn't taller than the monitor.


----------



## SammichThyme

Well I just ordered a perfect pixel tempered glass model. Should I be concerned about the dust? It's not too late to cancel and just get a standard one.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> The first one is not a wall mount. It clamps to your desk like this:
> http://www.wsgf.org/forum/11518/monoprice-3-way-adjustable-monitor-arms-triple-setup
> It's only one arm though per purchase, the guy just bought 3
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: The only reason I don't want to go with that second one is because the pole is so freaking tall! If you look at Omekone's pcitrue you'll undertstand:
> 
> I am going to have to saw off a piece of that pole just so it isn't taller than the monitor.


Oh I see, yea the pole is tall, I don't want it above my monitor nor do I want to saw it. I might as well just get the 1st one.
I thought it was a wall mount, now that i know it isn't I'll just go ahead and get it!


----------



## apav

Is any power cord good enough for the Catleap's power brick? No matter how many amps it can take?


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Is any power cord good enough for the Catleap's power brick? No matter how many amps it can take?


Yea, any 12v cord should cut it, but if there are issues you should buy a power brick as well. They're like $4 on amazon.


----------



## Horse Head

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Anyone else's monitor running really hot? Mine is almost like a space heater.


That is really bad! Especially if it is an LED version...


----------



## mott555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Horse Head*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Anyone else's monitor running really hot? Mine is almost like a space heater.
> 
> 
> 
> That is really bad! Especially if it is an LED version...
Click to expand...

I believe they use around 60 watts. Could definitely get hot if there isn't much airflow around it.


----------



## CrispyBread

I'm thinking about buying two of these monitors from Green-sum, has anyone had experience with this seller on eBay?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying two of these monitors from Green-sum, has anyone had experience with this seller on eBay?


I heard he has been sending out bad monitors recently, and many people have been having good results from bigclothcraft, he also checks the monitors before shipping it out.
I'm personally going to buy from bigclothcraft maybe later tonight or tomorrow


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I heard he has been sending out bad monitors recently, and many people have been having good results from bigclothcraft, he also checks the monitors before shipping it out.
> I'm personally going to buy from bigclothcraft maybe later tonight or tomorrow


Thanks for the reply/info,

It seems that green-sum and bigclothcraft have similar pixel checking services. They check to see if there are <5 dead pixels, unless you purchase their perfect pixel service that checks for any dead pixels. But, I may do the same and purchase from bigclothcraft.

Is it worth it to get the zero dead pixel monitors?

EDIT: Disregard, I read a few posts back about this question.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Thanks for the reply/info,
> It seems that green-sum and bigclothcraft have similar pixel checking services. They check to see if there are <5 dead pixels, unless you purchase their perfect pixel service that checks for any dead pixels. But, I may do the same and purchase from bigclothcraft.
> Is it worth it to get the zero dead pixel monitors?


A lot of people here don't think so. A lot of people have flawless monitors or little flaws that aren't noticeable at all. And some may still have flaws even with the perfect pixel guarantee. Their standards in Korea aren't the same as here.


----------



## Passion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Thanks for the reply/info,
> It seems that green-sum and bigclothcraft have similar pixel checking services. They check to see if there are <5 dead pixels, unless you purchase their perfect pixel service that checks for any dead pixels. But, I may do the same and purchase from bigclothcraft.
> Is it worth it to get the zero dead pixel monitors?


That's a toss up. I personally would prefer the peace of mind knowing that there is zero pixels on my monitor, but if it's dead in the "right" spots, you might not even notice them. Several posts that I have read from owners of Catleap with dead pixels noted that they barely notice them due to the large resolution and pixel placement -- iirc those who didn't mind that they had some dead pixels, had dead pixels in the corners of the monitor. I would imagine that it would unacceptable (and annoying) if you had dead pixels at the center of your monitor.

What's the price difference anyway? If you can take the extra cost, might as well go for it if you plan on keeping the monitor for a long time. And, if I decided to go with Catleap (still under consideration) I will definitely go for the perfect pixel option.


----------



## Nick911

There is no pixel perfect standard. It is a waist. some people who had pixels in the middle did get a bit of a refund for it being annoying. But the majority have had no issues with pixels.


----------



## apav

Just ordered one of these from Bigclothcraft, so excited! Also ordered a power cable for the power brick, and a new desk mount:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

Will keep this thread updated on my status if anyone cares to listen







After I take off the flimsy stand it comes with, I'm going to cut the pole on the new desk mount a little shorter so it doesn't show over the top of the monitor as displayed in this picture:


I'll explain how I do it with pictures once I receive all of the shipments. Hope it'll help someone looking into getting that desk mount


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Thanks for the reply/info,
> It seems that green-sum and bigclothcraft have similar pixel checking services. They check to see if there are <5 dead pixels, unless you purchase their perfect pixel service that checks for any dead pixels. But, I may do the same and purchase from bigclothcraft.
> Is it worth it to get the zero dead pixel monitors?
> EDIT: Disregard, I read a few posts back about this question.


I wouldn't go for it, as other's have said, they ordered the pixel perfect ones and still have the same results as the people without the pixel perfect.
Everyone has been fine with their monitors without it, so I don't think its worth it to get the pixel perfect option.


----------



## lightsout

Hey guys any advantage to this over the shimian? I've heard the shimian has a better stand.


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys any advantage to this over the shimian? I've heard the shimian has a better stand.


That's about it. Otherwise they're exactly the same


----------



## CallsignVega

Help needed: Someone with a 2B catleap that has two or more AMD 79xx series cards to test crossfire refresh rates over 85 Hz (ToastyX got 120 Hz on AMD card's working on single GPU, need help testing crossfire).


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I wouldn't go for it, as other's have said, they ordered the pixel perfect ones and still have the same results as the people without the pixel perfect.
> Everyone has been fine with their monitors without it, so I don't think its worth it to get the pixel perfect option.


I have been reading this thread for a few months now, I am sure I have missed a lot of posts, but I haven't seen anybody posting that they got dead/stuck pixels when they paid extra for the perfect pixel service. I have even been watching out for posts like that , because it does seems very unclear just what you are paying the extra for (pixel perfect), when the sellers check the monitors anyway .

I got mine from BCC about a month ago, paid for pixel perfect and that is what I got. To say I am very happy with the monitor would be an understatement


----------



## geoxile

Hey, is there any noticeable ghosting/input lag on the Catleap Multi compared to the basic version? I want something I can use for my PC and my 360.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geoxile*
> 
> Hey, is there any noticeable ghosting/input lag on the Catleap Multi compared to the basic version? I want something I can use for my PC and my 360.


From what I have read in this thread, there is quite a bit of extra input lag and it is very noticeable, due to the scaler in the Multi.


----------



## geoxile

Ugh, fantastic. I guess that means no Catleap for me


----------



## Abominator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> From what I have read in this thread, there is quite a bit of extra input lag and it is very noticeable, due to the scaler in the Multi.


So does it end up being like 30ms input lag like most of the other 2560x1440's on the market or worse? Also has anyone described major ghosting or something of a similar nature as a result of the input lag? Also if you get a 2b version and overclock it to 120hz will this counteract ghosting?


----------



## Sunni

Hi Guys. This is my first post on OCN. I have read a lot about this monitor in these forums, and . This monitor sounds great and it really suits my needs perfectly. However i am a bit in doubt regarding the connection from my laptop to the screen. I have a Dell XPS l502x with a GF GT540m, that has HDMI 1.4 and a mini displayport out. Can i simply but a HDMI to Dual Link DVI and output the 1440p to the screen or do i need an active/passive converter from mini displayport to Dual link DVI? My graphicscard can output up to 1600p.

Lastly, is there any news about the 100/120 Hz version of the monitor?

Thanks!


----------



## icor1031

Is there a LIGHT AG version of the Catleap?


----------



## kinitta

Hi guys!
I love this monitor, works great at 97Hz with nVidia GTX 550 Ti 1gb.
I bought multi output model (HDMI, DVI, VGA, 2x speakers,,,) and i wanna know how to enable PIP. Is it possible?
I hope to find any way to whatching TV via HDMI and using PC at the same time.
Thank you in advance!









P.S. : I apologize for writing english so badly, im italian!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Hey guys any advantage to this over the shimian? I've heard the shimian has a better stand.
> 
> 
> 
> That's about it. Otherwise they're exactly the same
Click to expand...

So if I am keeping the stand on I should go with the Shimian?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I have been reading this thread for a few months now, I am sure I have missed a lot of posts, but I haven't seen anybody posting that they got dead/stuck pixels when they paid extra for the perfect pixel service. I have even been watching out for posts like that , because it does seems very unclear just what you are paying the extra for (pixel perfect), when the sellers check the monitors anyway .
> 
> I got mine from BCC about a month ago, paid for pixel perfect and that is what I got. To say I am very happy with the monitor would be an understatement


I could of sworn I saw people ordering perfect pixels but still have dead pixels, it was somewhere in this thread.
I've also been following this thread for a few months also


----------



## Passion

I am going to meet someone in person in my area because he is selling a Catleap monitor in several hours. I'm going to see it first hand for any flaws before I make the purchase. Does anyone know if the warranty becomes void since I did not directly purchase it for Korea?

If the monitor is in perfect condition (i.e. no missing pixels and no light bleeding), what's the probability that it will occur later? In my mind, I can't see it happening. I have never had any problems with monitors before, and I hope that continues. Does anyone have negative experience after longer use?

Your comments will be appreciated. I'll be reading them on my mobile device during the time leading up to the meeting. Thanks in advance!









If I do purchase it, I was thinking about doing it through PayPal with a credit card as a form of protection. With cash, it's hard to get that back as there is no trace of purchase. Do you all agree? If in the situation that the seller prefers cash, I am planning to haggle for a lower price.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> I could of sworn I saw people ordering perfect pixels but still have dead pixels, it was somewhere in this thread.
> I've also been following this thread for a few months also


That was about a month ago. The perfect pixel meant it would have less than 5 dead pixels. Now they sell monitor that are dead pixel free. Meaning there should be ZERO dead pixels. I guess they did this so people would feel more secure and purchase them.


----------



## Passion

I just purchased the Catleap monitor after several basic tests. It seems to be perfect in every way - will post pictures this evening.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Passion*
> 
> I just purchased the Catleap monitor after several basic tests. It seems to be perfect in every way - will post pictures this evening.


so, how much did you pay for it?


----------



## Passion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> so, how much did you pay for it?


$300


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Passion*
> 
> $300


Nice price, is it a 2B ?


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Nice price, is it a 2B ?


I doubt 2B's exist anymore.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> I doubt 2B's exist anymore.


He just bought it of a guy near him, don't know how old it is.

Read a few posts up.


----------



## thestache

Can anyone tell me or show me how the screen looks without the plastic bezel on? I wan't to see the width of the metal casing that houses the screen is, if there are mounting holes on the back of the metal casing, if it's possible to mount 3x of these screens togeather bare and without a thick bezel?

I've been through a lot of this thread and honestly haven't found anything yet. Other than it uses a 75mm VESA mount on the back of the plastic bezel but that doesn't help.

I've found some 2B overclockable monitors and want to know if 4320x2560P @120hz with a thin bezel is a possibility. Will be using a GTX 690.

I know vega's done a mock-up but other than that havent actually seen it done or how thin the bezel could be.

Thanks.


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sexparty*
> 
> Can anyone tell me or show me how the screen looks without the plastic bezel on? I wan't to see the width of the metal casing that houses the screen is, if there are mounting holes on the back of the metal casing, if it's possible to mount 3x of these screens togeather bare and without a thick bezel?
> I've been through a lot of this thread and honestly haven't found anything yet. Other than it uses a 75mm VESA mount on the back of the plastic bezel but that doesn't help.
> I've found some 2B overclockable monitors and want to know if 4320x2560P @120hz with a thin bezel is a possibility. Will be using a GTX 690.
> I know vega's done a mock-up but other than that havent actually seen it done or how thin the bezel could be.
> Thanks.


Couple things to note here:

1. The 2Bs available on eBay are multi input and have noticeable input lag, and therefore are not great for gaming.
2. You'll need more than a GTX690 to get 120fps at that resolution, I'm afraid.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sexparty*
> 
> Can anyone tell me or show me how the screen looks without the plastic bezel on? I wan't to see the width of the metal casing that houses the screen is, if there are mounting holes on the back of the metal casing, if it's possible to mount 3x of these screens togeather bare and without a thick bezel?
> I've been through a lot of this thread and honestly haven't found anything yet. Other than it uses a 75mm VESA mount on the back of the plastic bezel but that doesn't help.
> I've found some 2B overclockable monitors and want to know if 4320x2560P @120hz with a thin bezel is a possibility. Will be using a GTX 690.
> I know vega's done a mock-up but other than that havent actually seen it done or how thin the bezel could be.
> Thanks.


Tri-120Hz won't work. The currently available DP>DVI-D adapters have a pixel clock that's too low. You could possibly get tri-100Hz.


----------



## Passion

I ultimately decided to go with this monitor since I had the option to examine the product before purchasing it. That eliminates some of the risk that I would bear if I had ordered it from S.Korea "blindly."

*First thoughts:* The stand on the monitor is truly flimsy as many people have commented in the past. But, it functions well. It's definitely usable with this stand, but I plan to get a VESA stand once I decide on my monitor setup for the future (i.e. why get a VESA stand for one monitor, when I can get one for three and add monitors later if that's what I plan on doing in the end? I'm going to decide within the month of June; in the meantime, this stand will suffice.) The stand looks great with the monitor as well, but the monitor does seem to be a bit unstable on it. This problem stems from the large size of monitor relative to the stand; if the stand was wider perhaps this problem wouldn't exist.

The bezels (the casing of the screen) seems cheap as well. The flaws with this are so small that it cannot be captured by the camera (using an iPhone), so it's not that significant. However, I'm going to mention it anyway since I noticed it and I would appreciate as much information as possible if I am a prospective buyer. The incasing itself is not perfectly smooth. What I mean is that some sides are jagged (slightly... about 1mm or less). It's as if it wasn't closed properly by the machines on the manufacturing line. This particular flaw is only present on the right side of the monitor.

It's important to note that this is irrelevant with respect to the performance of the monitor. It's only the case. It's not the screen (the most important part).

On an extremely positive note... this monitor is incredible. I'm thrilled that I picked one up. Pictures do not seem to do this monitor justice. The screen is incredibly beautiful, and large. I can imagine that this feels like gaming on two monitors without having a bezel in between. It's incredible.

I think a PLP setup would work nicely. I asked for measurements several pages ago, but I'll measure them up tomorrow or the day after and look into some potential options for a multiple monitor display. I'll post all my research, findings and dimensions on OCN for all us. I will also keep you all updated on my monitor setup. If you all like where I am going with this, I encourage you all to do the same.









*Preliminary Pictures:
*

The Cat is about to Leap out of the box... over the lazy brown dog. It wasn't really a fox. It was a Catleap. Trust me. I'm a professional.










This is what you should expect to find in the box. User manuel (haven't checked it out yet), DVI cable, power cable and stand with two screws (not pictured).


My Catleap!










I'm not a bot... do I have to fill in the image code below?










Gotta' clean this bad boy up! It wasn't really dirty to begin with, but I wanted this to be ready for it's OCN debut.








Just a tip for all you Catleap owners (and future owners), don't use Windex. I know it's pictured here, but I learned from experience. It didn't do a good job of cleaning it. For example, it left streak marks that did not dry well. It seemed to dry into a giant smudge of grease. It was nasty, but I immediately remedy the problem by moistening the fiber cloth with distilled water, and wiping it down methodically. I used another fiber cloth, which was dry, for the finishing touches. I didn't want to let it air dry for two reasons: a) just in case water dripped anywhere, b) air drying might leave some marks; it does on my eye glasses at least, so I decided not to leave it to chance. I cleaned it well, and dried it immediately.


The result was perfection........... Where's that brown dog anyway?










My 17'' MacBook Pro is dwarfed by the Catleap monitor (comparison of Apple MacBook Pro to the Catleap -- wrote this in for those who might be googling comparisons)


I'll post more monitor pics once I finish my computer build because I cannot demonstrate the pixel perfect image quality right now without a computer! But, I did do a full inspection at the seller's house. It's all good!









Also, please consider me for entry into the Monitor Club -- my first club on OCN.









* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Nice price, is it a 2B ?


Thanks! No, I don't think this is the 2B model unfortunately, but over clocking it isn't my greatest concern. Maybe, for my second monitor, I'll get the over clocked variant, if it's available and use the pictured monitor as a secondary non-gaming monitor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> I doubt 2B's exist anymore.


It stills exists. Do a google search and I'm sure you'll come across it. The price is listed at $459.00; the monitor will not provide the "pixel perfect" guarantee and it will be processed by Green-Sum.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> He just bought it of a guy near him, don't know how old it is.
> Read a few posts up.


According to the date on the packaging, the monitor is four weeks old with no signs of wear or usage. There were some fingerprints here and there, but I just cleaned it up with a micro fiber cloth. It looks brand new right now!









I don't know when the 120hz monitor production stopped, so I don't know if this could be it. If there's any way to modify it to enable over clocking, I would definitely be interested if it's an affordable option.


----------



## Degree

Nice, if only I had someone in my area I could buy from so I don't have to deal with the shipping


----------



## quakermaas

Nice one, all looks good then









If the part I have circled in red says 2B, then you almost certainly have the overclocking Catleap.


----------



## Passion

Thanks for the tip quakermaas! My monitor is not an overclocking Catleap. It has a "2D" in the same location as yours, but that's okay. I wasn't expecting to have an overclocking Catleap anyway.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Nice, if only I had someone in my area I could buy from so I don't have to deal with the shipping


Why do you want to avoid dealing with shipping? From what I hear, it has been a smooth process. Does this have to do with potential problems with customs?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Passion*
> 
> Thanks for the tip quakermaas! My monitor is not an overclocking Catleap. It has a "2D" in the same location as yours, but that's okay. I wasn't expecting to have an overclocking Catleap anyway.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Why do you want to avoid dealing with shipping? From what I hear, it has been a smooth process. Does this have to do with potential problems with customs?


I would say it can more to do with the worry of it being faulty/many dead pixels/DOA and the problems of shipping it back.

You got it at a very nice price and able to check it over before money exchanged hands.


----------



## Passion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I would say it can more to do with the worry of it being faulty/many dead pixels/DOA and the problems of shipping it back.


Ah, I interpreted it literally. If that's the case, then I definitely agree. I was not ready to order it from South Korea directly for the very same reason. I wish everyone the best of luck with their monitors.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Passion*
> 
> Ah, I interpreted it literally. If that's the case, then I definitely agree. I was not ready to order it from South Korea directly for the very same reason. I wish everyone the best of luck with their monitors.


Yea I don't want to deal with the dead pixels/DOAs and have to ship it back as I heard it was a pain and expensive.
But I doubt anything will go wrong when I order my monitor


----------



## Universaldamps

Been lurking for a little while in this thread, though this is my first post 

Forgive me if I repeat anything that has already been answered! I'm quite close to making the purchase for a Q270 SE, but I'm just a little uncertain as to whether I should go for the perfect pixel option or not. I've been bouncing back and forward between the ideas of getting the non perfect-pixel version. I've seen a fair few comments now saying that the perfect pixel option is essentially not worth it because you still aren't guaranteed to get a perfect panel, and shipping it back isn't worth it. It's kind of confusing as to why the option even exists. Anyone able to offer an opinion?


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Universaldamps*
> 
> Been lurking for a little while in this thread, though this is my first post
> Forgive me if I repeat anything that has already been answered! I'm quite close to making the purchase for a Q270 SE, but I'm just a little uncertain as to whether I should go for the perfect pixel option or not. I've been bouncing back and forward between the ideas of getting the non perfect-pixel version. I've seen a fair few comments now saying that the perfect pixel option is essentially not worth it because you still aren't guaranteed to get a perfect panel, and shipping it back isn't worth it. It's kind of confusing as to why the option even exists. Anyone able to offer an opinion?


I was in the same situation as you a few posts back. I was torn between shelling out the extra $60 from bigclothcraft on eBay for the perfect pixel service they offer. I decided to save the money and test my luck with just the regular base model. As I type this my two monitors are being processed and on their way, as soon as I receive them, I'll follow up and post the following:

1. Any noticeable dead pixels.
2. Package condition.
3. Monitor defects.
4. Pictures.

A few things to keep in mind. With this resolution, 2560 x 1440, 1-5 dead pixels scattered are really not going to be noticeable. The problem is when there are 1-5 in a relatively close cluster, I think.

EDIT: I found a thread for a similar monitor on OCN. There is a picture of a dead pixel on an Achieva Shimian. They have the same resolution and high PPI (pixels per inch) as the Yamakasi. http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a4/a424868b_oXEG5h.jpeg


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Universaldamps*
> 
> Been lurking for a little while in this thread, though this is my first post
> Forgive me if I repeat anything that has already been answered! I'm quite close to making the purchase for a Q270 SE, but I'm just a little uncertain as to whether I should go for the perfect pixel option or not. I've been bouncing back and forward between the ideas of getting the non perfect-pixel version. I've seen a fair few comments now saying that the perfect pixel option is essentially not worth it because you still aren't guaranteed to get a perfect panel, and shipping it back isn't worth it. It's kind of confusing as to why the option even exists. Anyone able to offer an opinion?


Really, if you are dead on worry about dead pixels, and you don't mind spending the extra, get the Dead Pixel option.
Otherwise, don't get it if you okay with having a chance of getting a dead pixel, but the chances are lower now.


----------



## quakermaas

I have seen posts saying it is not worth to pay extra for perfect pixel, but I haven't seen any posts (from the horses mouth) of some one paying for the pixel-perfect service and getting a panel with dead or stuck pixels, also there is many posts of people ordering with the out perfect pixel service and getting perfect pixel panels (but not all).

I would say you have a very very good chance of getting a perfect-pixel monitor with out the perfect pixel service, but it is not guaranteed.

If you do pay for pixel perfect service then that is what you should get, but that does not cover light bleeding or back light imbalance/ yellowish hue.

Seen posts of people with a few dead pixel and have no problems with it, because they are so hard to see/find as the pixels are so small.

My


----------



## Universaldamps

Thanks for the thoughts guys. Right now I'm thinking I'll go for the non perfect pixel option and try my luck. I've got one dead pixel on the monitor I'm currently using, and you're right about hardly noticing it. I guess I'm just a bit hesitant about ordering from overseas. I'll probably pull the trigger and get one tomorrow morning.


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Universaldamps*
> 
> Thanks for the thoughts guys. Right now I'm thinking I'll go for the non perfect pixel option and try my luck. I've got one dead pixel on the monitor I'm currently using, and you're right about hardly noticing it. I guess I'm just a bit hesitant about ordering from overseas. I'll probably pull the trigger and get one tomorrow morning.


You could always wait and let me report back on how I received mine







.


----------



## Universaldamps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> You could always wait and let me report back on how I received mine
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Haha true. I guess I'm just impatient, though the wise thing to do would be wait. Must resist temptation..


----------



## Koehler

Anyone know where the 120Hz models are available?


----------



## Abominator

I keep seeing people saying that the input lag on the multi's is extreme, is this actually true or are people being over pedantic? Is the input lag acctually horrendous or minor such as on a Dell U2711 where only people playing twitch shooters will be able to tell the difference?


----------



## Brandaofilho

The Achieva Shimians, which are pretty much the same as the Catleaps, supposedly are the OEM for Hazro, and TFT Central did a review on the Hazro HZ27WC & HZ27WA, with the HZ27WA being the one with multiple inputs.

On the review the multiple inputs HZ27WA was slightly better than the Dell U2711 with 26.3ms on average, while the dell one was recorded at 30ms average.
The DVI only input HZ27WC was on average about 9ms.

You can read the TFT Central review for both models on here:
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/hazro_hz27wa.htm

Take a look at the pics on the review and you will see the Hazro is identical to the Achieva Shimians.


----------



## bf2badass

ebay just order 1 from big croft


----------



## bf2badass

how does us custom work on monitor just order catleap limited with 2b board from bigcroft


----------



## God Father

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandaofilho*
> 
> The Achieva Shimians, which are pretty much the same as the Catleaps, supposedly are the OEM for Hazro.
> Take a look at the pics on the review and you will see the Hazro is identical to the Achieva Shimians.


They look identical alright but what about this quote from the article, made by Hazro: "It is important to note that all new Hazro monitors are manufactured and assembled in the UK".

Perhaps they just straight out copied them? As opposed to being an OEM?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf2badass*
> 
> how does us custom work on monitor just order catleap limited with 2b board from bigcroft


Looks to be free trade.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3300_30#post_17076087

http://www.ustr.gov/trade-agreements/free-trade-agreements/korus-fta


----------



## Nishinku

Just got my Catleap with the mail from Green-sum ordered the normal SE q270.

Arrived blazingly fast







Ordered monday, got it friday(wasnt home so just got it today)

And everything just works









Got a good scare at first tho.
Took it out of the package started hooking everything up. Then when i plugged in the power supply the light on the brick didnt light up, and i thought hmm that's weird perhaps it just does'nt take in power before i plug it into the screen. So i plugged it in... Absolutely nothing, black screen. And i thought jeez great i have the day off tommorow and the screen does'nt even work. So after kicking myself for about a minute i realised that, i live alone and everytime i leave the house i turn off all the power in the house(through a remote control) to save power, and in all the anticipation of getting a new screen i forgot to turn it back on...... So it worked.. Phew

I have 1 dead pixel, but like everyone says its really impossible to see it unless you look after it. Also it's only there on black background(so not entirely dead) But no backlight bleed or anything.

Got the 2e model. and had to pay 76$ fee (to get it across the danish borders)

So long story short, got it fast from green-sum works GREAT, beautiful screen.


----------



## bf2badass

120hz 6 left ebay big croft


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nishinku*
> 
> Just got my Catleap with the mail from Green-sum ordered the normal SE q270.
> Arrived blazingly fast
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ordered monday, got it friday(wasnt home so just got it today)
> And everything just works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Took it out of the package started hooking everything up. Then when i plugged in the power supply the light on the brick didnt light up, and i thought hmm that's weird perhaps it just does'nt take in power before i plug it into the screen. So i plugged it in... Absolutely nothing, black screen. And i thought jeez great i have the day off tommorow and the screen does'nt even work. So after kicking myself for about a minute i realised that, i live alone and everytime i leave the house *i turn off all the power in the house*(through a remote control) to save power, and in all the anticipation of getting a new screen i forgot to turn it back on...... So it worked.. Phew
> I have 1 dead pixel, but like everyone says its really impossible to see it unless you look after it. Also it's only there on black background(so not entirely dead) But no backlight bleed or anything.
> Got the 2e model. and had to pay 76$ fee (to get it across the danish borders)
> So long story short, got it fast from green-sum works GREAT, beautiful screen.


OK, but don't you have a fridge/freezer ?


----------



## Nishinku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> OK, but don't you have a fridge/freezer ?


F...Ridge? What sorcery is this.

The remote is only rigged to certain outlets (i have like an adapter i put on to the outlets that are remote controlled) So i have on in the computer room and one in my living room. Kitchen stays out of harms reach









So ok i turn of ALMOST all of the power


----------



## NateZ28

You guys do know that the overclockable models that are being sold on ebay have significantly more input lag than the standard 2B version. This is due to the multiple inputs.

I had a few questions about this display for those who already own one. I'm holding my breath for a 120hz version from that other website.
How is this monitor for fast paced FPS gaming? How does it compare to a 120hz TN panel in gaming (specifically Battlefield 3)?
I plan to game a lot on this so this is important for me.

Can the display do 3D? Again I plan on getting the 120hz version.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nishinku*
> 
> F...Ridge? What sorcery is this.
> The remote is only rigged to certain outlets (i have like an adapter i put on to the outlets that are remote controlled) So i have on in the computer room and one in my living room. Kitchen stays out of harms reach
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So ok i turn of ALMOST all of the power


OK, got yaa


----------



## apav

Hey guys,

To all people from the U.S. I got a message from Bigclothcraft after placing my order. He asked me several questions, one of them being:

2) How much price I put on invoice?
In your country, custom inspection is very strict.
So, I recommend to put accurate price on invoice.

What did you guys put for your customs fee? I'm not sure how much US customs will charge for this product. Did you guys get charged for customs too in your invoice?

Thanks.


----------



## bf2badass

me to same here just order yesterday i said mark as gift told him do what they nomaly do


----------



## Sunni

Nishinku: I also live in Denmark. How much was the invoice marked as? Did you request anything specific or did you just order? The total price all in all was abouth 375 $?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

My first two came in under gift with a $30 value attached - no issues. My next two came in with the proper import code for a monitor with a $150 value no issues. You will not be charged a duty if the seller is using the proper import code for the item. The ONLY time I have read about a person getting dinged the 5% duty for his monitor was where the seller used a catch all code that gets hit with an automatic 5% duty here in the US. Otherwise, it doesn't matter what amount is put on the monitor, it doesn't matter if it is a gift, it just doesn't matter - EXCEPT for the code. As far as I know all the ebay sellers are aware of this and are using the proper code.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunni*
> 
> Nishinku: I also live in Denmark. How much was the invoice marked as? Did you request anything specific or did you just order? The total price all in all was abouth 375 $?


When I got mine (Germany), I told BCC to mark it as a gift, refurbished monitor value €70, I had to pay DHL €13.30 at the door


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> My first two came in under gift with a $30 value attached - no issues. My next two came in with the proper import code for a monitor with a $150 value no issues. You will not be charged a duty if the seller is using the proper import code for the item. The ONLY time I have read about a person getting dinged the 5% duty for his monitor was where the seller used a catch all code that gets hit with an automatic 5% duty here in the US. Otherwise, it doesn't matter what amount is put on the monitor, it doesn't matter if it is a gift, it just doesn't matter - EXCEPT for the code. As far as I know all the ebay sellers are aware of this and are using the proper code.


Woops, I didn't understand what he meant in his message then. I told him whatever customs charged him, do the same for me. I thought customs will charge you either way. But I did tell him to do what he has done in the past with other U.S. customers. I think I should be alright.


----------



## Nishinku

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunni*
> 
> Nishinku: I also live in Denmark. How much was the invoice marked as? Did you request anything specific or did you just order? The total price all in all was abouth 375 $?


Got them in at the normal Price. Green-sum did'nt ask if i wanted to put another price on but i guess it can be requested









Monitor : 1.956,00 dkk
Fee: 457,20 dkk
total: 2413 dkk (405$)

But the price has fallen about 10$ since i bought it.


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Hey guys,
> To all people from the U.S. I got a message from Bigclothcraft after placing my order. He asked me several questions, one of them being:
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> In your country, custom inspection is very strict.
> So, I recommend to put accurate price on invoice.
> What did you guys put for your customs fee? I'm not sure how much US customs will charge for this product. Did you guys get charged for customs too in your invoice?
> Thanks.


I received the same message, I had no idea what to tell him to put, so I just asked him what I should put, and he didn't give me a price. My package is in transit though, currently in Hong Kong at the moment.


----------



## Lazarus1983

Hello everybody









I´ve a few questions about the Monitor Yamakasi Catleap Multi.

I want to use it on an ATI 5770 via DVI and a laptop with an 5470 graphics card. Is it posible to use with these cards. I dont understand why it shoult not be possible. Ok, I understand not that much of the technical specification of that monitors but some might have problems with some cards. Gree-Sum says, that the monitor isnt working with any laptop. But why? It has a HDMI - Port wich is capable of running the solutions of 480p, 1080i + p.

And what happens if the monitor is broken or something. Is it the standard 30days refund and after that the 1 year warranty?

Which sellers did you choose and why?RC, GS or BCC

Thanks a lot for answering my questions


----------



## Ferling Design

My catleap just arrived today. I ordered from green sum and it came with an adapter for USA. The monitor has no noticeable issues with bleed. It has only one dead pixel which is extremely small and very unnoticeable. Im very happy with my purchase.


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> My catleap just arrived today. I ordered from green sum and it came with an adapter for USA. The monitor has no noticeable issues with bleed. It has only one dead pixel which is extremely small and very unnoticeable. Im very happy with my purchase.


Congrats! My monitors are on their way, they are shipping faster than it would if I bought something CONUS.
Would i be possible to take a picture of the one dead pixel? I just want a reference for when I look for one.


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Congrats! My monitors are on their way, they are shipping faster than it would if I bought something CONUS.
> Would i be possible to take a picture of the one dead pixel? I just want a reference for when I look for one.


Im currently not home but a picture wont be necessary. I just google imaged "dead pixel"



This is just one of many examples, you will basically be looking for any white/grey "stars" or "dots" with your wallpaper set to black. Dead pixels can also show up as red, green, or blue "rgb"...If you find a pixel that changes its color, its considered a lazy pixel and may be revived back to normal by using a program that alternates colors across your screen.

I hope this helped


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> My catleap just arrived today. I ordered from green sum and it came with an adapter for USA. The monitor has no noticeable issues with bleed. It has only one dead pixel which is extremely small and very unnoticeable. Im very happy with my purchase.


Excuse me sir, what monitor is that on the side and what mount are you using it with?


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> Excuse me sir, what monitor is that on the side and what mount are you using it with?


Its a Dell UltraSharp 1703FP 17" its actually not mounted yet









I have another not even hooked up either. I plan to mount sometime but have not yet decided.


----------



## Universaldamps

I emailed green-sum about the perfect pixel policy for clarification, and here's what he said -

"Yes, it is covered under deap pixel policy.Perfect pixel means it has been checked before release, we do not open it separately.
If there is one dead pixel, we will replace it. Thank you.

- green-sum"


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> Im currently not home but a picture wont be necessary. I just google imaged "dead pixel"
> 
> This is just one of many examples, you will basically be looking for any white/grey "stars" or "dots" with your wallpaper set to black. Dead pixels can also show up as red, green, or blue "rgb"...If you find a pixel that changes its color, its considered a lazy pixel and may be revived back to normal by using a program that alternates colors across your screen.
> I hope this helped


Well, assuming that the resolution in that picture is less than 2560 x 1440, there's no reason to worry about 1 dead pixel at these resolutions. Unless it's in the middle of the screen.


----------



## braveblade

I do not have the money to buy video card that can push games to 120hz (currently own a gtx 460 hawk), does it mean 120hz is pointless in my situation?


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I do not have the money to buy video card that can push games to 120hz (currently own a gtx 460 hawk), does it mean 120hz is pointless in my situation?


Depends on what you're using your monitor for primarily. If you're doing a lot of movement (FPS games, racing games, action movies, etc) then 120hz is going to benefit you because you can see more for every second. Otherwise, 60hz is sufficient as you cannot really tell the difference between 60hz and 120hz.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Depends on what you're using your monitor for primarily. If you're doing a lot of movement (FPS games, racing games, action movies, etc) then 120hz is going to benefit you because you can see more for every second. Otherwise, 60hz is sufficient as you cannot really tell the difference between 60hz and 120hz.


Thanks! I mainly play RPGs. 60hz then. save money as well.


----------



## Mkilbride

Saw that, but it's another 210$...almost a whole nother monitor...

Plus, no Pixel Perfect.

Guess these Catleaps are old news, no longer the amazing bargain 100HZ monitors, pixel perfect, for 350$









5 dead pixels being acceptable is crazy as well.


----------



## bjgrenke

Also, does anyone notice the actual screen to be kind of soft, plasticy to the touch? Every time I try to wipe off a water drop or something it feels like I'm going to scratch the screen


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Universaldamps*
> 
> I emailed green-sum about the perfect pixel policy for clarification, and here's what he said -
> "Yes, it is covered under deap pixel policy.Perfect pixel means it has been checked before release, we do not open it separately.
> If there is one dead pixel, we will replace it. Thank you.
> - green-sum"


funny, i bought a perfect pixel from him and it's DOA. i can stand a few dead pixels on a perfect pixel, but since it's doa i know either they haven't checked or it's damaged during shipment.


----------



## apav

How long do these things take to ship? I'm going on a trip in 4 days (no one will be around to pick it up unless I ask a friend or someone to stay at my house until it comes) and I am just curious if I will get it by then. I ordered it Saturday. BCC messaged me today about what to list for customs and marked it as shipped.

I messaged him asking how long it will take and he said this:
Quote:


> It takes 1~2 business days to inspect.
> After shipment, I will update tracking number in ebay.
> Shipping service is DHL Express.


But he already marked it as shipped and there is a tracking number listed, but it has not been updated yet... Did he ship it or not?









1-2 business days to inspect monitor + 3-5 for shipping is a lot more time then what people have said here that it took them to receive theirs. Again I'm not impatient I just want to be sure I don't miss the monitor.

Edit: I'm also really nervous about getting a couple dead pixels or any backlight bleeding with mine... I know it isn't that noticeable, but I'm just so nitpicky like that.. maybe I should have gotten the perfect pixel :X Hoping I get lucky!


----------



## SammichThyme

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> How long do these things take to ship? I'm going on a trip in 4 days (no one will be around to pick it up unless I ask a friend or someone to stay at my house until it comes) and I am just curious if I will get it by then. I ordered it Saturday. BCC messaged me today about what to list for customs and marked it as shipped.
> I messaged him asking how long it will take and he said this:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> It takes 1~2 business days to inspect.
> After shipment, I will update tracking number in ebay.
> Shipping service is DHL Express.
> 
> 
> 
> But he already marked it as shipped and there is a tracking number listed, but it has not been updated yet... Did he ship it or not?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1-2 business days to inspect monitor + 3-5 for shipping is a lot more time then what people have said here that it took them to receive theirs. Again I'm not impatient I just want to be sure I don't miss the monitor.
> Edit: I'm also really nervous about getting a couple dead pixels or any backlight bleeding with mine... I know it isn't that noticeable, but I'm just so nitpicky like that.. maybe I should have gotten the perfect pixel :X Hoping I get lucky!
Click to expand...

I'm in the same boat man. I'm really picky about these things and will be mad forever if something is wrong.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Saw that, but it's another 210$...almost a whole nother monitor...
> Plus, no Pixel Perfect.
> Guess these Catleaps are old news, no longer the amazing bargain 100HZ monitors, pixel perfect, for 350$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 5 dead pixels being acceptable is crazy as well.


Yeah, the OC models aren't a bargain anymore. As for the dead pixels, 5 sounds a lot, but it really isn't out of 3.7m pixels. Most people don't really get as many, probably around 1 or 2 and they don't notice them unless they extensively look out for them.

Anyway, if you want perfection, go buy an Apple monitor.

Just kidding.

Buy Dell.

Just kidding again.

Here you can find pixel policies with all major monitor sellers:
http://www.behardware.com/articles/666-4/a-look-into-dead-pixels-2007.html
http://www.behardware.com/articles/666-8/a-look-into-dead-pixels-2007.html

Welcome to LCD technology.


----------



## Mkilbride

Oh I know, but I don't accept even 1 dead pixel, I get a full refund or replacement, or else I go legal, but I doubt that'd happen with these Korean panels.

Tough stuff...


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I'm in the same boat man. I'm really picky about these things and will be mad forever if something is wrong.


I think a couple people in this thread (I read so many pages I can't even remember) said that people said they have got theirs from Bigclothcraft in 2-3 days? I'm pretty sure people have said that which helped me make my decision of BCC over Green-Sum (faster shipping vs free monitor testing service). Or am I going crazy? Hoping I wake up tomorrow and there will be updated shipping info on my tracking number!


----------



## jam3s

anyone know if a single 670 is enough to drive the res?

Might pick one up if that's the case.

However, I don't want 30 fps in my games if that's what will happen lol.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> anyone know if a single 670 is enough to drive the res?
> Might pick one up if that's the case.
> However, I don't want 30 fps in my games if that's what will happen lol.


Would also like to know, thinking of picking up an Asus GTX 670 DCUII TOP


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Oh I know, but I don't accept even 1 dead pixel, I get a full refund or replacement, or else I go legal, but I doubt that'd happen with these Korean panels.
> Tough stuff...


Well you said "5 dead pixels being acceptable is crazy as well.", which is lower than the standard in US. Of course you can always just pay restocking fee and return the monitor in store, that's the perk of buying in store over say online since they won't give you free shipping for a return, only for defect (5+ bad pixels, DOA). Does that perk really justify the 800-1100$ price tag though?


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> anyone know if a single 670 is enough to drive the res?
> 
> Might pick one up if that's the case.
> 
> However, I don't want 30 fps in my games if that's what will happen lol.


so far no problems for me. probably the game that loads it the most is bf3 , doesn't ever seem to drop below 40 . I have everything maxed including msaa and fxaa. it is beautiful and runs smooth.it usually stays in the 50s or hits the vsync limit


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumpsterj*
> 
> so far no problems for me. probably the game that loads it the most is bf3 , doesn't ever seem to drop below 40 . I have everything maxed including msaa and fxaa. it is beautiful and runs smooth.it usually stays in the 50s or hits the vsync limit


Holy crap.

I picked up two GTX 670's only to discover that the board I chose was only a single PCI-E slot









Anyways, 40 fps is hardly bad. I will save some money and grab one, it seems.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Well you said "5 dead pixels being acceptable is crazy as well.", which is lower than the standard in US. Of course you can always just pay restocking fee and return the monitor in store, that's the perk of buying in store over say online since they won't give you free shipping for a return, only for defect (5+ bad pixels, DOA). Does that perk really justify the 800-1100$ price tag though?


Probably.

Cause I had a stuck pixel once on the lower right hand corner of my monitor that you could only see if you looked for it...and I always did. I'm really OCD about that.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Mine arrived today. It is absolutely beautiful - I am so glad I chose this monitor over the u2412m or a 120hz TN panel. Only gripes are the stand and the fact that the monitor is tilted to the right. I just put some cards underneath the stand and it's fine now but would be better if it was even.

So happy I purchased this


----------



## apav

Same question here, just want to know what to expect







How about 2 6970's in CF (with my i5 2500k OC'ed to 4.5)?

I am currently playing BF3 and Witcher 2, both max settings and AA @1080p. Ubersampling is off on Witcher 2.

On BF3 I get 70-90 fps, and I have never seen it drop below 70. Witcher 2, I get 70-100 and it only drops down in the 60's during a very intensive scene.

Would like to know how much of a performance hit I should expect going from 1080p to 1440p


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dumpsterj*
> 
> so far no problems for me. probably the game that loads it the most is bf3 , doesn't ever seem to drop below 40 . I have everything maxed including msaa and fxaa. it is beautiful and runs smooth.it usually stays in the 50s or hits the vsync limit
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap.
> 
> I picked up two GTX 670's only to discover that the board I chose was only a single PCI-E slot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, 40 fps is hardly bad. I will save some money and grab one, it seems.
Click to expand...

I have the gigabyte wind force. mine boost clocks to 1201mhz stock


----------



## dumpsterj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Same question here, just want to know what to expect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about 2 6970's in CF (with my i5 2500k OC'ed to 4.5)?
> 
> I am currently playing BF3 and Witcher 2, both max settings and AA @1080p. Ubersampling is off on Witcher 2.
> 
> On BF3 I get 70-90 fps, and I have never seen it drop below 70. Witcher 2, I get 70-100 and it only drops down in the 60's during a very intensive scene.
> 
> Would like to know how much of a performance hit I should expect going from 1080p to 1440p


I started running out of vram in a bad way going from 1200p to 1440p with my sli 470s . 1.24 GB Is not enough to max out bf3. I don't know if it's just that or just not enough graphics performance with the 2 470s . single 670 gets the job done tho.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dumpsterj*
> 
> I started running out of vram in a bad way going from 1200p to 1440p with my sli 470s . 1.24 GB Is not enough to max out bf3. I don't know if it's just that or just not enough graphics performance with the 2 470s . single 670 gets the job done tho.


Well both my cards have 2GB VRAM should that be an issue for me? I knew I needed more than 1.5 GB for most games, so that's why I went with 2 GB cards.


----------



## TheJesus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> You guys do know that the overclockable models that are being sold on ebay have significantly more input lag than the standard 2B version. This is due to the multiple inputs.
> I had a few questions about this display for those who already own one. I'm holding my breath for a 120hz version from that other website.
> How is this monitor for fast paced FPS gaming? How does it compare to a 120hz TN panel in gaming (specifically Battlefield 3)?
> I plan to game a lot on this so this is important for me.
> Can the display do 3D? Again I plan on getting the 120hz version.


Theoretically it could do 3D

BUT

there are no 3D-Vision certified drivers which are required for it.


----------



## avattz

So I just received my two additional monitors, and I must have the worst luck of all. One has anti-glare which won't match my first glossy display, and the second one (which is glossy) failed ten minutes in. It also had a warmer white point so now I don't know what true IPS is because the color profiles were the same for both monitors (the anti-glare and failed one both have built in speakers which might mean different circuit boards and in turn different color reproduction). I know some people would love the anti-glare one, but I don't have enough Rep to sell it in the marketplace...

I took a picture of all three monitors, and I was hoping if someone would tell me how to fix the third one (I would reread the entire thread but I'm pretty tired atm), so far tried different DVI-D cables and ports on the 7970 graphics card. Apologies for the bad photo, didn't really have time to adjust camera settings or spend time in Photoshop because I was so pissed at the seller.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7300789/IMG_1492.JPG


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> So I just received my two additional monitors, and I must have the worst luck of all. One has anti-glare which won't match my first glossy display, and the second one (which is glossy) failed ten minutes in. It also had a warmer white point so now I don't know what true IPS is because the color profiles were the same for both monitors (the anti-glare and failed one both have built in speakers which might mean different circuit boards and in turn different color reproduction). I know some people would love the anti-glare one, but I don't have enough Rep to sell it in the marketplace...
> I took a picture of all three monitors, and I was hoping if someone would tell me how to fix the third one (I would reread the entire thread but I'm pretty tired atm), so far tried different DVI-D cables and ports on the 7970 graphics card. Apologies for the bad photo, didn't really have time to adjust camera settings or spend time in Photoshop because I was so pissed at the seller.
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7300789/IMG_1492.JPG


who did u buy ur monitor from? i got it from green sum and was DOA as well - smoke came out when i connected the power and smells burnt.


----------



## plum

Who's the seller? gotta ask for RMA I guess.

As for the monitors themselves, it's not really the sellers' fault, for example green sum doesn't open the monitors himself. It's the manufacturer's fault, he's just there to handle the RMA if something goes wrong, so I kinda hope you got him or BCC for a smooth RMA process.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Who's the seller? gotta ask for RMA I guess.
> As for the monitors themselves, it's not really the sellers' fault, for example green sum doesn't open the monitors himself. It's the manufacturer's fault, he's just there to handle the RMA if something goes wrong, so I kinda hope you got him or BCC for a smooth RMA process.


i know i was going to go for BCC but i needed the multi version and BCC doesnt have that. i figured green sum didnt check the monitor since the manufacturer's seal logo was still on it.


----------



## jaydubb

good luck getting an rma from those guys.


----------



## avattz

Bought it from bigclothcraft, but they say they "test" these by opening them, I have no idea how they didn't notice that both monitors weren't matching in terms glossy/anti-glare. I'm just annoyed because I have no clue on how to package such large items, I don't have any packing materials and who knows how much that will cost, and I don't have any transportation for drop-off. To top it off, I was persuaded to buy the perfect pixel, and I did buy them so I wouldn't stress out waiting to find out if I had any dead pixels...


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> Bought it from bigclothcraft, but they say they "test" these by opening them, I have no idea how they didn't notice that both monitors weren't matching in terms glossy/anti-glare. I'm just annoyed because I have no clue on how to package such large items, I don't have any packing materials and who knows how much that will cost, and I don't have any transportation for drop-off. To top it off, I was persuaded to buy the perfect pixel, and I did buy them so I wouldn't stress out waiting to find out if I had any dead pixels...


*sigh* this sounds like buying fake electronics, hopefully when I order mine everything will be fine.
And I'm not going to buy pixel perfect


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> Bought it from bigclothcraft, but they say they "test" these by opening them, I have no idea how they didn't notice that both monitors weren't matching in terms glossy/anti-glare. I'm just annoyed because I have no clue on how to package such large items, I don't have any packing materials and who knows how much that will cost, and I don't have any transportation for drop-off. To top it off, I was persuaded to buy the perfect pixel, and I did buy them so I wouldn't stress out waiting to find out if I had any dead pixels...


Contact him, I've seen people arrange a pick up before.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> So I just received my two additional monitors, and I must have the worst luck of all. One has anti-glare which won't match my first glossy display, and the second one (which is glossy) failed ten minutes in. It also had a warmer white point so now I don't know what true IPS is because the color profiles were the same for both monitors (the anti-glare and failed one both have built in speakers which might mean different circuit boards and in turn different color reproduction). I know some people would love the anti-glare one, but I don't have enough Rep to sell it in the marketplace...
> I took a picture of all three monitors, and I was hoping if someone would tell me how to fix the third one (I would reread the entire thread but I'm pretty tired atm), so far tried different DVI-D cables and ports on the 7970 graphics card. Apologies for the bad photo, didn't really have time to adjust camera settings or spend time in Photoshop because I was so pissed at the seller.
> http://dl.dropbox.com/u/7300789/IMG_1492.JPG


Can you open the faulty monitor and check that all cables are seated correctly, there has been posts were these come lose in transit.

Sorry to hear your bad luck on the AG coating monitor, I know there is some people on here that would love that and it is very rare to get.


----------



## Degree

There's a thread somewhere showing you how to remove the AG coating.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> There's a thread somewhere showing you how to remove the AG coating.


Way too much effort imo and with risk


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Way too much effort imo and with risk


Yea and it can get easily scratched too.


----------



## corpjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *avattz*
> 
> Bought it from bigclothcraft, but they say they "test" these by opening them, I have no idea how they didn't notice that both monitors weren't matching in terms glossy/anti-glare.


I'm a bit confused, I thought all Catleaps came with a glossy screen, I've ordered from BCC "bigclothcraft Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor #140732647823" , *I was hoping for a glossy screen, is that not the case?*


----------



## apav

That's really bad luck, I'm sorry to hear that. From what I understand, I have seen only 3/10 of Catleap buyers have dead pixels, and 1/10 people have problems more then dead pixels/backlight bleeding. Please correct me if my numbers are wrong.

avattz, how long did it take your monitors to arrive from the moment you placed the order to the moment they arrived? Really hoping I get mine by Thursday (and in good condition too!) since I placed the order on Saturday.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> I'm a bit confused, I thought all Catleaps came with a glossy screen, I've ordered from BCC "bigclothcraft Perfect Pixel - Yamakasi Catleap Q270 27" LED 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor #140732647823" , *I was hoping for a glossy screen, is that not the case?*


These monitors are nearly always glossy, very rare to get an anti glare screen and they could could from any of the sellers.


----------



## VandreadZero

I was searching for 27" IPS Panel for my photographic needs, had my eyes set on Dell U2711 but I just can't justify the price. Thats where I came accross this thread.

I would really like to buy this monitor and have searched through pages before but I still have few questions in my head, would really appreciate if one can answer some of them









1. There are so many models (5 if I understand it correctly, with the combination of speaker, multi-input, and tempered glass), just to be sure, what type is the most popular among you guys here and for what reason?

2. I see that GreenSum and BigClothCraft is two of the most recommended seller here. I would go for BCC for the fact that he check the monitor before its shipped, sadly BCC cost more ($319 for the SE model without speaker and glass) and charge $40 more dollar for shipping to my country (Indonesia). That makes him $50 more premium than GreenSum offers for the same model ($309 and free shipping). I read that some of the panels bought from GreenSum had problem for this past weeks. What's your thoughts on this? Should I take the risk and go with GreenSum to save $50 or just go with BCC instead?

3. My main use for this monitor is for editing photos and videos. How is the performance of this panel regarding the wide-gamut coverage? (like, the Dell U2711 has 100% sRGB coverage and 96% Adobe RGB coverage)?

4. How this monitor performs in terms of color accuracy? Seems that this monitor has some wide variations of color accuracy. I have Spyder 4 colorimeter, is this suffice to calibrate the monitor to get great to perfect color accuracy?

5. Last and not least, is there any of you guys here how the Indonesian customs act with importing this kind of goods (electronics)? Just maybe one of you guys here are Indonesian or just happen to know how Indonesian customs works









Thank you very much guys. Any sort of help is very much appreciated









Sorry for my bad english.


----------



## Futzy

These panels are 8bit, not 10bit like the U2711. They cover 100% of sRGB, and have fantastic color accuracy and image quality. I've seen many artists in here buying one, and I just ordered a Crossover 27Q for my own painting and gaming today.


----------



## corpjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> These monitors are nearly always glossy, very rare to get an anti glare screen and they could could from any of the sellers.


I hope I don't get a non glossy one, I've sent him a message but I think he's already shipped.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheJesus*
> 
> Theoretically it could do 3D
> BUT
> there are no 3D-Vision certified drivers which are required for it.


Why wouldn't the regular 3D Vison drivers work? Is it because of the resolution?

More important to me is how smooth this display is. I want the monitor mostly for fast-paced FPS gaming.
By next year I should have a card that can easily do over 60 FPS at 1440p.


----------



## avattz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> That's really bad luck, I'm sorry to hear that. From what I understand, I have seen only 3/10 of Catleap buyers have dead pixels, and 1/10 people have problems more then dead pixels/backlight bleeding. Please correct me if my numbers are wrong.
> avattz, how long did it take your monitors to arrive from the moment you placed the order to the moment they arrived? Really hoping I get mine by Thursday (and in good condition too!) since I placed the order on Saturday.


I bought them last Thursday and DHL delivered yesterday, most of the shipping happened over the weekend though.


----------



## Tomalak

hmm I thought about ordering one of these monitors, but it seems I'll have to add 40% to the cost for tax, customs and import service.

So a 250EUR monitor would cost me around 350EUR in the end.

I can buy ZR2740/U2711 for 550EUR.

Not really sure if 200EUR is worth the risk, especially having in mind that returning the monitor from here to Korea would be way too complicated and expensive.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VandreadZero*
> 
> I was searching for 27" IPS Panel for my photographic needs, had my eyes set on Dell U2711 but I just can't justify the price. Thats where I came accross this thread.
> I would really like to buy this monitor and have searched through pages before but I still have few questions in my head, would really appreciate if one can answer some of them
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. There are so many models (5 if I understand it correctly, with the combination of speaker, multi-input, and tempered glass), just to be sure, what type is the most popular among you guys here and for what reason?
> 2. I see that GreenSum and BigClothCraft is two of the most recommended seller here. I would go for BCC for the fact that he check the monitor before its shipped, sadly BCC cost more ($319 for the SE model without speaker and glass) and charge $40 more dollar for shipping to my country (Indonesia). That makes him $50 more premium than GreenSum offers for the same model ($309 and free shipping). I read that some of the panels bought from GreenSum had problem for this past weeks. What's your thoughts on this? Should I take the risk and go with GreenSum to save $50 or just go with BCC instead?
> 3. My main use for this monitor is for editing photos and videos. How is the performance of this panel regarding the wide-gamut coverage? (like, the Dell U2711 has 100% sRGB coverage and 96% Adobe RGB coverage)?
> 4. How this monitor performs in terms of color accuracy? Seems that this monitor has some wide variations of color accuracy. I have Spyder 4 colorimeter, is this suffice to calibrate the monitor to get great to perfect color accuracy?
> 5. Last and not least, is there any of you guys here how the Indonesian customs act with importing this kind of goods (electronics)? Just maybe one of you guys here are Indonesian or just happen to know how Indonesian customs works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thank you very much guys. Any sort of help is very much appreciated
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for my bad english.


1. I think the SE (No speaker) model with no glass or multi input is the most popular. Just because the speakers on the Non-SE are pretty much useless in terms of quality. The tempered glass is basically just a sheet of plexi glued over the panel, and is not really worth paying extra for. The multi input models have something like 7x more input lag than the regular model which sucks, and doing 1080p on these monitors is pointless.

2. People don't seem to realize that Greensum checks the monitors too, he just doesn't advertise it as much. Greensum told me that he'll check for backlight issues, and if you buy pixel perfect obviously he'll check for pixels on top of the backlight issues.

3. Don't really know much about the tech specs of colours, but I can say that coming from a 1080p TN panel this is a huge improvement in res and colours. With a little bit of simple calibration of course.

4. Again couldn't help you much there, but the calibration guide in the OP is simple and really helps. Out of the box mine had a bit of a green tint, but with calibration is perfect.

5. No idea sorry


----------



## jam3s

Well, I officially have one coming to me.

Perhaps I'll do a freebie on my 27" 1080p monitor or something?


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> 2. People don't seem to realize that Greensum checks the monitors too, he just doesn't advertise it as much. Greensum told me that he'll check for backlight issues, and if you buy pixel perfect obviously he'll check for pixels on top of the backlight issues.


He's lying, it's the manufacturer that checks and brands monitors as perfect pixel. Why do you think the item is advertised as brand new; unopened? He's not allowed to open it for legal reasons.


----------



## Enigm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomalak*
> 
> hmm I thought about ordering one of these monitors, but it seems I'll have to add 40% to the cost for tax, customs and import service.
> So a 250EUR monitor would cost me around 350EUR in the end.
> I can buy ZR2740/U2711 for 550EUR.
> Not really sure if 200EUR is worth the risk, especially having in mind that returning the monitor from here to Korea would be way too complicated and expensive.


In which country do you live?
Could you detail how you get to the 40% figure?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> He's lying, it's the manufacturer that checks and brands monitors as perfect pixel. Why do you think the item is advertised as brand new; unopened? He's not allowed to open it for legal reasons.


Mine was obviously opened with original tape cut and tape with GREENSUM logos all over it


----------



## Tabletop35

Hey! Just purchased my pixel perfect from BCC! And it is, as advertised, pixel perfect. However, there is a stupid spec of dust I can't seem to get out. Is there a guide to opening up the screen? I know there is one for removing the stand, will that get me to the place I need to be?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabletop35*
> 
> Hey! Just purchased my pixel perfect from BCC! And it is, as advertised, pixel perfect. However, there is a stupid spec of dust I can't seem to get out. Is there a guide to opening up the screen? I know there is one for removing the stand, will that get me to the place I need to be?


Did you get the tempered glass model? If so I think you're hooped unless you somehow get the glass off. Even if you don't have tempered glass I think it's still tricky to take apart the actual panel itself.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabletop35*
> 
> Hey! Just purchased my pixel perfect from BCC! And it is, as advertised, pixel perfect. However, there is a stupid spec of dust I can't seem to get out. Is there a guide to opening up the screen? I know there is one for removing the stand, will that get me to the place I need to be?


You most likely have the tempered glass model right?
You can take it out I think, but it requires you to do surgery on the monitor (opening it up)


----------



## VandreadZero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Futzy*
> 
> These panels are 8bit, not 10bit like the U2711. They cover 100% of sRGB, and have fantastic color accuracy and image quality. I've seen many artists in here buying one, and I just ordered a Crossover 27Q for my own painting and gaming today.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> 1. I think the SE (No speaker) model with no glass or multi input is the most popular. Just because the speakers on the Non-SE are pretty much useless in terms of quality. The tempered glass is basically just a sheet of plexi glued over the panel, and is not really worth paying extra for. The multi input models have something like 7x more input lag than the regular model which sucks, and doing 1080p on these monitors is pointless.
> 2. People don't seem to realize that Greensum checks the monitors too, he just doesn't advertise it as much. Greensum told me that he'll check for backlight issues, and if you buy pixel perfect obviously he'll check for pixels on top of the backlight issues.
> 3. Don't really know much about the tech specs of colours, but I can say that coming from a 1080p TN panel this is a huge improvement in res and colours. With a little bit of simple calibration of course.
> 4. Again couldn't help you much there, but the calibration guide in the OP is simple and really helps. Out of the box mine had a bit of a green tint, but with calibration is perfect.
> 5. No idea sorry


Thanks for your reply guys









Done some research about the LG LM270WQ1 itself and found out that this panel has 99.9% sRGB coverage and 77.2% Adobe RGB coverage, while the LM270WQ2 has 100% sRGB coverage and 97.1% Adobe RGB coverage. For most photographer and designer this Catleap is sufficient, but for really pro users this panel might not cut it. Maybe someone can post this spec in the front page also and help other people like me









I'm just about to pull the trigger for the SE model, just not sure yet whether to go with BCC or GreenSum...


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> He's lying, it's the manufacturer that checks and brands monitors as perfect pixel. Why do you think the item is advertised as brand new; unopened? He's not allowed to open it for legal reasons.


What makes you so sure of your self ?

When I got my Pixel Perfect from BCC, the box had clearly been opened, but it also has this sticker on the box, which I get the feeling that it was not from BCC's doing.


----------



## Tabletop35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> You most likely have the tempered glass model right?
> You can take it out I think, but it requires you to do surgery on the monitor (opening it up)


Personally I've never opened up a monitor but I would be more than willing to try. And I was told that I'd be getting a pixel perfect speaker edition because he ran out of the plain ones, so I'm not sure if it is tempered glass or not, but I'm almost positive BCC doesn't sell tempered glass ones so I don't think it would be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Did you get the tempered glass model? If so I think you're hooped unless you somehow get the glass off. Even if you don't have tempered glass I think it's still tricky to take apart the actual panel itself.


Nope! And blah!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tabletop35*
> 
> Personally I've never opened up a monitor but I would be more than willing to try. And I was told that I'd be getting a pixel perfect speaker edition because he ran out of the plain ones, so I'm not sure if it is tempered glass or not, but I'm almost positive BCC doesn't sell tempered glass ones so I don't think it would be.


Does the glass seem thick to you? Some people ordered the monitors and sometime they got one with AG coating on it.


----------



## Tabletop35

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Does the glass seem thick to you? Some people ordered the monitors and sometime they got one with AG coating on it.


Nope, it seems the same width as my TN panel...and it's not the AG coating that is the problem, I can see a spec of dust, and I tapped it a few times and it went lower but now it's stuck.


----------



## PastaJackal

Just received my SE model. Everything seems great and I'm quite fussy about image quality due to digital media work. Only thing I have found is that the black level isn't great. I also noticed after a simple black screen test that the bottow left corner is brighter so looks like I might have backlight bleeding. Haven't decided yet tho if it's enough to warrant a return (would be rather annoying in that case). Anyone else able to comment on their black levels and the evenness of the backlight? Best to test it in a darkened room.


----------



## henrygale

Which power adapters (100v? 220v?) are you guys getting? When and from whom did you order from? I'm leaning toward the Catleap as it has the nicest bezel IMO. I would feel most comfortable with US compatible one haha.

Also, is the power indicator really that big green line as shown in the ebay pics? User pics make it seem more like small whitish dot.

Thanks guys!


----------



## PastaJackal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> Which power adapters are you guys getting? When and from whom did you order from? I'm leaning toward the Catleap as it has the nicest bezel IMO. I would feel most comfortable with US compatible one haha.
> Also, is the power indicator really that big green line as shown in the ebay pics? User pics make it seem more like small whitish dot.
> Thanks guys!


The power indicator is more like a tiny green dot. A lot better than the full blown light imo. As for power, you can use any old power cable you have lying around from an old monitor etc. I bought mine from bigclothcraft. Their communication was excellent and the monitor I just received has zero dead pixels albeit a little bit of light bleeding (though may just live with it).


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> Which power adapters are you guys getting? When and from whom did you order from? I'm leaning toward the Catleap as it has the nicest bezel IMO. I would feel most comfortable with US compatible one haha.
> Also, is the power indicator really that big green line as shown in the ebay pics? User pics make it seem more like small whitish dot.
> Thanks guys!


The power LED is green when on and red when off but it's REALLY faded. At least mine is. And this is a good thing as I'd rather have a feint light or none at all compared to a bright led as a distraction. It's nowhere near how bright it is in the pictures.


----------



## Mattbag

Hey guys I've been seriously looking into getting one of these monitors I've seen a few online in the 315 dollar price range and am seriously thinking about buying one by the end of the month so I can have it when I move into my appartment. I have a couple questions about this:
1. will my 460s in sli be able to run games decently at 1440p?
2. If they cant then can I just use this monitor in 1080p till I can afford a better card possibly a 7970 or 680 or maybe just hold off till the 8000 or 700 series?
3. Also what are the chances of getting a broken one that doesn't work properly and do I still have to pay return shipping if it is broken?
4. it the difference of about 50-70 bucks worth it to buy a perfect pixel edition? meaning are 2 or 3 dead pixels noticeable?

thanks guys please help me out!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattbag*
> 
> Hey guys I've been seriously looking into getting one of these monitors I've seen a few online in the 315 dollar price range and am seriously thinking about buying one by the end of the month so I can have it when I move into my appartment. I have a couple questions about this:
> 1. will my 460s in sli be able to run games decently at 1440p?
> 2. If they cant then can I just use this monitor in 1080p till I can afford a better card possibly a 7970 or 680 or maybe just hold off till the 8000 or 700 series?
> 3. Also what are the chances of getting a broken one that doesn't work properly and do I still have to pay return shipping if it is broken?
> 4. it the difference of about 50-70 bucks worth it to buy a perfect pixel edition? meaning are 2 or 3 dead pixels noticeable?
> thanks guys please help me out!


1. My single 680 can handle any game at 1440p Ultra settings at above 50-60fps. Your 460s should probably be able to handle most stuff, don't be expecting ultra though.
2. Since this monitor has no scaler 1080p doesn't look so hot. It works for me but I don't know if it works for all. I haven't tested it in game. I wouldn't count on using 1080p.
3. As long as you don't mind a few dead/stuck pixels or minor backlight bleed/fade. That stuff won't be covered with return shipping. If it's completely DOA or has MANY dead pixels then you can get it replaced.
4. I got a perfect pixel from greensum and there's no defects at all. It's a debate on whether it's worth it or not since people receive flawless panels without buying perfect pixel. If you're really fussy about minor defects, then get the perfect pixel.


----------



## Onoroian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> What makes you so sure of your self ?
> 
> When I got my Pixel Perfect from BCC, the box had clearly been opened, but it also has this sticker on the box, which I get the feeling that it was not from BCC's doing.


I ordered a "pixel perfect" option from dcsamsungmall an the box of mine was also opened,I assumed this was the seller checking it before shipping.
I have yet to test it as Im still waiting on my vid card .


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> 1. My single 680 can handle any game at 1440p Ultra settings at above 50-60fps. Your 460s should probably be able to handle most stuff, don't be expecting ultra though.
> 2. Since this monitor has no scaler 1080p doesn't look so hot. It works for me but I don't know if it works for all. I haven't tested it in game. I wouldn't count on using 1080p.
> 3. As long as you don't mind a few dead/stuck pixels or minor backlight bleed/fade. That stuff won't be covered with return shipping. If it's completely DOA or has MANY dead pixels then you can get it replaced.
> 4. I got a perfect pixel from greensum and there's no defects at all. It's a debate on whether it's worth it or not since people receive flawless panels without buying perfect pixel. If you're really fussy about minor defects, then get the perfect pixel.


Thanks a lot for the quick response. Personally I was planning on buying just the regular one from greensum but for about 310 but for 370 the perfect pixel seems like it might be a good idea. I've never owned a high quality pc monitor and I only game and browse I don't really have(professional) use for a high res monitor but the thought of 1440p and the advertisment from the sellers on ebay make me want one! Maybe I'm better off just buying a 200 dollar 1080p monitor off newegg since I know it will look much better then my current setup(my 42 inch led vizio @ 1080p)

But like i mentioned I'm really intrested in buying one of these Koren made monitors particularly the catleaps i just dont know if my cards will handle 1440 and if they cant I hope 1080 displays okay on them for the time being!


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> What makes you so sure of your self ?
> 
> When I got my Pixel Perfect from BCC, the box had clearly been opened, but it also has this sticker on the box, which I get the feeling that it was not from BCC's doing.


You just answered your own question


----------



## henrygale

Anyone get their monitor from green-sum recently? People were posting about DOA monitors recently, but seeing as how quick the turn around is, I was just wondering if he still had a bad batch.


----------



## corpjones

I've purchased one from BigClothCraft, it will probably arrive this week, should I buy any DVI cables to go with it or will it come with it? .

Thanks


----------



## fed250

Anyone know if it would be possible to run 3d vision on one of these if overclocked high enough or with the monitor response time end up killing that idea?

I have a gtx 690 and I would like at least one 3d monitor, if this isn't a possibility then I guess its a smaller BenQ. I just can't wait to sweep some mines in 3D!!


----------



## phemark

Hello,

I am currently looking for a cheap IPS monitor (for photo editing/movies/a bit of gaming/general stuff) to buy, and I had my eyes almost set on Dell 2412M. But then I saw Korean monitors. They look amazing on paper, and reviews are good too. So im really into getting one of those. But before i commit to buy it, i wanted to ask you couple of questions (I was thinking of getting CATLEAP Q270 MULTI, if HDMI is needed)

a) I have Asus G73 laptop (ATI Mobility 5870), and only HDMI. Would I be able to:
i) Get cheapest version of q270 and use Dual Dvi converter to HDMI?
or
ii) Do i need to get multi input version and use HDMI directly? Would I get full 1440p using HDMI?

b) Outscalling:
i) Would it upscale every movie to 1440p (full screen, not windowed), and would it upscale gaming in less than 1440p to full screen aswell?
ii) if i ever decide to connect anything else than a computer to this monitor, would it upscale it to 1440p or show it in windowed mode? (like console, camera, tv box if possible?)

c) Someone mentioned, that input lag is noticable when upscalling, is it true?

d) Would i be able to overclock (get a bit better refresh rate) on this monitor with my Mobility 5870?

So overall, I would like to know if i would always get 1440p with my mobility 5870 using HDMI, and if there would be any problems at all.

Thank you for all the answers!
phemark


----------



## treesnhausen

Hey I'm looking at ordering one of these. I'm after the SE model with tempered glass. Is there a way to distinguish between the SE models (glass and non-glass) advertised on ebay? Also do the current SE models have the 2BPCB?


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> I've purchased one from BigClothCraft, it will probably arrive this week, should I buy any DVI cables to go with it or will it come with it? .
> Thanks


I ordered mine from BCC as well. I'm currently using the one it came with and so far it seems good. I've read somewhere that the cable might cause display problems(something about the cable hanging). From my experience, it seems good.


----------



## raven2212

Quote:


> Anyone get their monitor from green-sum recently? People were posting about DOA monitors recently, but seeing as how quick the turn around is, I was just wondering if he still had a bad batch.


Just purchased on last Friday from green-sum and recieved on Monday. Worked perfectly and looked perfect ( I didn't buy pixel perfect but I couldn't find any defects) but after about 4-5 hours it lost image and only the backlight would come on. I have tried everythign that I could think of, change cords (DVI and Power), messed with settings (change resolutions lowered hz under 60), tried another monitor (not a Catleap) with the graphics card to make sure it wasn't that, opened and reseated all connections. Also followed various guides (Scribby etc) regarding boot and hook up order with all the same result. Solid green power light with backlight clearly on but no image at all.

Any other suggestions out there from anyone?

I contacted green-sum last night about it to see if I just need to return it or what.


----------



## apav

So I ordered from BCC on Saturday, he listed a tracking number and that it shipped on Monday.. but it still doesn't display any information? I enter my tracking number on DHL and it says no results... Did he give me the wrong tracking number? I messaged him but he hasn't messaged me back.


----------



## bf2badass

samething here dhl said ck after 5 pm today


----------



## corpjones

Thanks for your reply Kimo i'll try the cable it comes with.

Apav I have the same issue, cant track it.

My only worry is about getting a non glossy version delivered (i thought they only came in glossy!) so fingers crossed


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> Thanks for your reply Kimo i'll try the cable it comes with.
> Apav I have the same issue, cant track it.
> My only worry is about getting a non glossy version delivered (i thought they only came in glossy!) so fingers crossed


Haha I'm hoping I don't get a non-glossy too







I might just call DHL and ask.

Edit, read your post wrong. I hate AG coatings too. But I'm more worried that I'll get dead pixels in the middle of my screen or other noticeable flaws.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Ok I been thinking about getting one of these. I have read the FAQ several times and it seems the last update was 3/20/12, but I seen a post later then that by Skrib talking about PCB.
So I was wondering....

What the progress is on the PCB Swab?
if it is currently possible to over clock these monitors again?
If dual, tri, or quad sli 670's would be capable of this?


----------



## apav

Ok... so I am PISSED. I called DHL, I gave them my tracking number, and they told me the item hasn't shipped yet.

I bought on Saturday, and it hasn't even touched DHL yet? All I can say is it better arrive in 2 days before I go away on vacation.

Praying it was an error with DHL or BCC gave me the wrong tracking number.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Ok... so I am PISSED. I called DHL, I gave them my tracking number, and they told me the item hasn't shipped yet.
> I bought on Saturday, and it hasn't even touched DHL yet? All I can say is it better arrive in 2 days before I go away on vacation.
> Praying it was an error with DHL or BCC gave me the wrong tracking number.












I hope you get it before vacation


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope you get it before vacation


Thank you. I've seen so many posts where it arrived in 2-3 days from BCC, so I'm like 60% sure it is an error. A guy from BCC named James told me the service was DHL expedited shipping. So I'm just camping out in my house for the DHL truck to come today.

I wanted to be another happy customer by buying with BCC


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Thank you. I've seen so many posts where it arrived in 2-3 days from BCC, so I'm like 60% sure it is an error. A guy from BCC named James told me the service was DHL expedited shipping. So I'm just camping out in my house for the DHL truck to come today.
> I wanted to be another happy customer by buying with BCC


You also have to remember that most phone reps are idiots.

I remember once that I had someone tell me my order didn't ship yet, and that very day the postal truck came with my stuff.

Stay strong brother.


----------



## bf2badass

sounds good to me iam waiting to


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> You also have to remember that most phone reps are idiots.
> I remember once that I had someone tell me my order didn't ship yet, and that very day the postal truck came with my stuff.
> Stay strong brother.


Thanks for the reassurance. With the rep BCC has, I'm really starting to think it was DHL's error or a mistake with the tracking number. Will update back later tonight guys


----------



## jam3s

you've got my fingers crossed.

I have mine coming from a member here on OCN.

Should be here next week.

Now I gotta find something to do with my 27" 1080p monitor lol


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Thank you. I've seen so many posts where it arrived in 2-3 days from BCC, so I'm like 60% sure it is an error. A guy from BCC named James told me the service was DHL expedited shipping. So I'm just camping out in my house for the DHL truck to come today.
> I wanted to be another happy customer by buying with BCC


Just wait, there is some sort of holiday going on in Korea atm.


----------



## Kimo

I ordered mine on a Thursday(it said shipped, so i figured I was good to go on my weekend vacation) and it didn't ship till Monday because I did not answer the questions he sent me on ebay. Check and see if BCC sent you any messages. Mine shipped on Mon and got here Wen(CA).


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> I ordered mine on a Thursday(it said shipped, so i figured I was good to go on my weekend vacation) and it didn't ship till Monday because I did not answer the questions he sent me on ebay. Check and see if BCC sent you any messages. Mine shipped on Mon and got here Wen(CA).


He sent me questions Monday and I answered them right away. Then he replied:
Quote:


> Hello
> Thanks for your information.
> I will prepare to make shipment.
> I will test monitor before shipping.
> 
> Checking monitor is service for buyer.
> 
> And this is normal monitor.
> This may have dead pixel.
> (up tp 5 dead pixel, this is regarded as normal)
> 
> 1. function of monitor with compatible video card.
> 2. damage of monitor.
> 3. checking deal pixel
> -we only check that this monitor has less than 5 dead pixel
> 
> 4. Checking serious light bleeding.
> -All monitor may have any light bleeding.
> So, we check only "Serious" Light Bleeding.
> 
> It takes 1~2 business days to inspect.
> After shipment, I will update tracking number in ebay.
> Shipping service is DHL Express.
> You can track yours in below site;
> http://www.dhl.com
> Thanks


Does it really take him 2 business days to inspect? I hear a lot of people getting it theirs in 2-3 days total.

I understand it's memorial day in Korea right now but still, it should've been shipped a while ago.


----------



## plum

Just calm down. of course it doesn't take him 2 days, he has other customers as well to take care of.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Just calm down. of course it doesn't take him 2 days, he has other customers as well to take care of.


Well if I don't get it by Friday, I don't know what I'm gonna do D: I can only wait though, I'll get back to you guys.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Shipping international alone takes 2 days. That is just the shipping.


----------



## DontLikeYou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Ok... so I am PISSED. I called DHL, I gave them my tracking number, and they told me the item hasn't shipped yet.
> I bought on Saturday, and it hasn't even touched DHL yet? All I can say is it better arrive in 2 days before I go away on vacation.
> Praying it was an error with DHL or BCC gave me the wrong tracking number.


This is not BCC's fault. It is yours. I also ordered one on Saturday and it listed the estimated arrival date as June 8th. If you have ever shipped anything online you would know that it sometimes takes a day or two longer. It is your fault for ordering it right before you are leaving. Don't come on here blaming the seller and making him look bad when he has done nothing wrong.


----------



## Polarity

relax urself jesus....just ordered it u will get ur item


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DontLikeYou*
> 
> This is not BCC's fault. It is yours. I also ordered one on Saturday and it listed the estimated arrival date as June 8th. If you have ever shipped anything online you would know that it sometimes takes a day or two longer. It is your fault for ordering it right before you are leaving. Don't come on here blaming the seller and making him look bad when he has done nothing wrong.


Says June 4-6 for me. Don't want to start a flame war. But it most certainly isn't my fault that the seller has had since Saturday to ship it and has not done so yet.

If he was going to take this long I would've ordered it when I got back, but now I'm probably going to incur fees from DHL for holding it for over a week (which is why I'm freaking out).


----------



## CrispyBread

YAY! My monitors finally arrived this morning![/SIZE][/B]
A few posts back I posted that I would provide some information as soon as I received these monitors.
Quote:


> I was in the same situation as you a few posts back. I was torn between shelling out the extra $60 from bigclothcraft on eBay for the perfect pixel service they offer. I decided to save the money and test my luck with just the regular base model. As I type this my two monitors are being processed and on their way, as soon as I receive them, I'll follow up and post the following:
> 
> 1. Any noticeable dead pixels.
> 2. Package condition.
> 3. Monitor defects.
> 4. Pictures.
> 
> A few things to keep in mind. With this resolution, 2560 x 1440, 1-5 dead pixels scattered are really not going to be noticeable. The problem is when there are 1-5 in a relatively close cluster, I think.
> 
> EDIT: I found a thread for a similar monitor on OCN. There is a picture of a dead pixel on an Achieva Shimian. They have the same resolution and high PPI (pixels per inch) as the Yamakasi. http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a4/a424868b_oXEG5h.jpeg
> Edited by CrispyBread - 6/4/12 at 12:11am View History


So, I'm here to report on how my experience was with eBay, bigclothcraft (the seller) and my monitors.

*1. Any noticeable dead pixels.*
Not a single dead pixel. I purchased the standard version of the model, no glass, no speakers, no multi input. I think I was lucky when I got these







.
I accidentally let one of the boxes fall onto its side when I was unpacking them, and fortunately I still had working monitors.

*2. Packing condition.*
I think the packing of these monitors could have been better. Knowing they are travelling about 2000 miles, they were just wrapped in foam and that was it. They were marked as fragile so that will ease some minds in thinking their monitors are being tossed around.

*3. Monitor defects.*
To be honest, the bezel, stand, and anything other than the screen itself, are really crappy. There is a lot of warping, and just typing on my keyboard, the screen will do the wub wub. The screen is EXCELLENT. Colors are spectacular, the gloss on the screen (as long as you are away from light) makes everything look nicer. As long as you're not looking to tie the room together with these monitors.

*4. Pictures.*
I leave you all with an album of various steps of setting my monitors up. If anyone wants a picture of anything, just let me know.


http://imgur.com/nO9ZO


Also, bigclothcraft was an amazing seller. He responded to my messages maybe 2-5 minutes within sending them. I can say that the worst part of the whole process was DHL. Though, their shipping within 4 days (I purchased on Saturday, recieved today on Wednesday) was impressive, they did miss their delivery date that was said to be a day before on their tracking website.

And finally, a picture of my desktop at 5120 x 1440:
*

EDIT: My rofl grammar.*


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> *YAY! My monitors finally arrived this morning!*
> A few posts back I posted that I would provide some information as soon as I received these monitors.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I was in the same situation as you a few posts back. I was torn between shelling out the extra $60 from bigclothcraft on eBay for the perfect pixel service they offer. I decided to save the money and test my luck with just the regular base model. As I type this my two monitors are being processed and on their way, as soon as I receive them, I'll follow up and post the following:
> 1. Any noticeable dead pixels.
> 2. Package condition.
> 3. Monitor defects.
> 4. Pictures.
> A few things to keep in mind. With this resolution, 2560 x 1440, 1-5 dead pixels scattered are really not going to be noticeable. The problem is when there are 1-5 in a relatively close cluster, I think.
> EDIT: I found a thread for a similar monitor on OCN. There is a picture of a dead pixel on an Achieva Shimian. They have the same resolution and high PPI (pixels per inch) as the Yamakasi. http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a4/a424868b_oXEG5h.jpeg
> Edited by CrispyBread - 6/4/12 at 12:11am View History
> 
> 
> 
> So, I'm here to report on how my experience was with eBay, bigclothcraft (the seller) and my monitors.
> *1. Any noticeable dead pixels.*
> Not a single dead pixel. I purchased the standard version of the model, no glass, no speakers, no multi input. I think I was lucky when I got these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I accidentally let one of the boxes fall onto its side when I was unpacking them, and fortunately I had working monitors.
> *2. Packing condition.*
> I think the packing of these monitors could have been better. Knowing they are travelling about 2000 miles, they were just wrapped in foam and that was it. They were marked as fragile so that will ease some minds in thinking their monitors are being tossed around.
> *3. Monitor defects.*
> To be honest, the bezel, stand, and anything other than the screen itself, are really crappy. They're is a lot of warping, and just typing on my keyboard, the screen will do the wub wub. The screen is EXCELLENT. Colors are spectacular, the gloss on the screen (as long as you are away from light) makes everything look nicer. As long as you're not looking for
> *4. Pictures.*
> I leave you all with an album of various steps of setting my monitors up. If anyone wants a picture of anything, just let me know.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/nO9ZO
Click to expand...

Lucky!! Congrats, imgur is down though


----------



## Passion

Great pictures CrispyBread. Nice setup!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> YAY! My monitors finally arrived this morning![/SIZE][/B]
> A few posts back I posted that I would provide some information as soon as I received these monitors.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I was in the same situation as you a few posts back. I was torn between shelling out the extra $60 from bigclothcraft on eBay for the perfect pixel service they offer. I decided to save the money and test my luck with just the regular base model. As I type this my two monitors are being processed and on their way, as soon as I receive them, I'll follow up and post the following:
> 1. Any noticeable dead pixels.
> 2. Package condition.
> 3. Monitor defects.
> 4. Pictures.
> A few things to keep in mind. With this resolution, 2560 x 1440, 1-5 dead pixels scattered are really not going to be noticeable. The problem is when there are 1-5 in a relatively close cluster, I think.
> EDIT: I found a thread for a similar monitor on OCN. There is a picture of a dead pixel on an Achieva Shimian. They have the same resolution and high PPI (pixels per inch) as the Yamakasi. http://cdn.overclock.net/a/a4/a424868b_oXEG5h.jpeg
> Edited by CrispyBread - 6/4/12 at 12:11am View History
> 
> 
> 
> So, I'm here to report on how my experience was with eBay, bigclothcraft (the seller) and my monitors.
> *1. Any noticeable dead pixels.*
> Not a single dead pixel. I purchased the standard version of the model, no glass, no speakers, no multi input. I think I was lucky when I got these
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> I accidentally let one of the boxes fall onto its side when I was unpacking them, and fortunately I had working monitors.
> *2. Packing condition.*
> I think the packing of these monitors could have been better. Knowing they are travelling about 2000 miles, they were just wrapped in foam and that was it. They were marked as fragile so that will ease some minds in thinking their monitors are being tossed around.
> *3. Monitor defects.*
> To be honest, the bezel, stand, and anything other than the screen itself, are really crappy. They're is a lot of warping, and just typing on my keyboard, the screen will do the wub wub. The screen is EXCELLENT. Colors are spectacular, the gloss on the screen (as long as you are away from light) makes everything look nicer. As long as you're not looking for
> *4. Pictures.*
> I leave you all with an album of various steps of setting my monitors up. If anyone wants a picture of anything, just let me know.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/nO9ZO
> 
> Also, bigclothcraft was an amazing seller. He responded to my messages maybe 2-5 minutes within sending them. I can say that the worst part of the whole process was DHL. Though, their shipping within 4 days (I purchased on Saturday, recieved today on Wednesday) was impressive, they did miss their delivery date that was said to be a day before on their tracking website.
> And finally, a picture of my desktop at 5120 x 1440:
Click to expand...

Great to hear! Will you be picking up a stand?
Also did you have to pay DHL? I thought I saw somewhere in this thread where you have to pay like $30 at the door so I want to confirm that.


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Great to hear! Will you be picking up a stand?
> Also did you have to pay DHL? I thought I saw somewhere in this thread where you have to pay like $30 at the door so I want to confirm that.


Nope, did not have to pay DHL anything. I just had to sign and that was it. Maybe that's the reason they mark the package as a gift, to avoid customs fees.
EDIT: I thin I'm going to get these mounts: http://www.amazon.com/Mount-It-Articulating-Computer-Monitor-monitors/dp/B0052AWGLE/ref=pd_ybh_7
Quote:


> Great pictures CrispyBread. Nice setup!


Thanks man







.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

If you are in the US, you will not have to pay any extra as US and Korea have a free trade agreement.


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> If you are in the US, you will not have to pay any extra as US and Korea have a free trade agreement.


This, it's mostly us poor souls in Europe having to pay extra


----------



## mott555

So I just received a bill from FedEx in the mail for customs/import duty on my Catleap. It was a bill for $0.00. Part of me hopes I get reported to debt collectors for not paying just for the lulz, as long as it doesn't hurt my credit. Then when they call me I'll offer to pay them over the phone using pennies!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mott555*
> 
> So I just received a bill from FedEx in the mail for customs/import duty on my Catleap. It was a bill for $0.00. Part of me hopes I get reported to debt collectors for not paying just for the lulz, as long as it doesn't hurt my credit. Then when they call me I'll offer to pay them over the phone using pennies!


Have you received your monitor? If not I call them up as they most likely won't delivery until that is sorted out, if you have received it then yeah just keep LOLing.


----------



## kl884347

I am almost ready to bite the bullet on this, but am a little confused about dual link DVI and DVI-I- vs DVI-D. Yes, I did google it. I am using a DVI KVM (Gefen EXT-DVIKVM-241 2x1 DVI KVM Switcher) and think I may have a problem since it doesn't look like from the specs that it is outputs dual. When I search for dual-link DVI KVMs they seem REALLY expensive. Am I missing something or will I have to drop back to a VGA connection in order to share the monitor? Any insight would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## mott555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *mott555*
> 
> So I just received a bill from FedEx in the mail for customs/import duty on my Catleap. It was a bill for $0.00. Part of me hopes I get reported to debt collectors for not paying just for the lulz, as long as it doesn't hurt my credit. Then when they call me I'll offer to pay them over the phone using pennies!
> 
> 
> 
> Have you received your monitor? If not I call them up as they most likely won't delivery until that is sorted out, if you have received it then yeah just keep LOLing.
Click to expand...

I got the monitor last week.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Just keep LOLing then as they aren't go to sent debt collector over nothing.


----------



## phemark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phemark*
> 
> Hello,
> I am currently looking for a cheap IPS monitor (for photo editing/movies/a bit of gaming/general stuff) to buy, and I had my eyes almost set on Dell 2412M. But then I saw Korean monitors. They look amazing on paper, and reviews are good too. So im really into getting one of those. But before i commit to buy it, i wanted to ask you couple of questions (I was thinking of getting CATLEAP Q270 MULTI, if HDMI is needed)
> a) I have Asus G73 laptop (ATI Mobility 5870), and only HDMI. Would I be able to:
> i) Get cheapest version of q270 and use Dual Dvi converter to HDMI?
> or
> ii) Do i need to get multi input version and use HDMI directly? Would I get full 1440p using HDMI?
> b) Outscalling:
> i) Would it upscale every movie to 1440p (full screen, not windowed), and would it upscale gaming in less than 1440p to full screen aswell?
> ii) if i ever decide to connect anything else than a computer to this monitor, would it upscale it to 1440p or show it in windowed mode? (like console, camera, tv box if possible?)
> c) Someone mentioned, that input lag is noticable when upscalling, is it true?
> d) Would i be able to overclock (get a bit better refresh rate) on this monitor with my Mobility 5870?
> So overall, I would like to know if i would always get 1440p with my mobility 5870 using HDMI, and if there would be any problems at all.
> Thank you for all the answers!
> phemark


So guys, would I be able to get full 1440p via HDMI from my Mobility 5870?...
Thanks!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Nope, did not have to pay DHL anything. I just had to sign and that was it. Maybe that's the reason they mark the package as a gift, to avoid customs fees.
> EDIT: I thin I'm going to get these mounts: http://www.amazon.com/Mount-It-Articulating-Computer-Monitor-monitors/dp/B0052AWGLE/ref=pd_ybh_7
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Great pictures CrispyBread. Nice setup!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks man
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
Click to expand...

Yea that stand is nice








I saw someone with it over at hardforum, looks nice and sleek.


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phemark*
> 
> So guys, would I be able to get full 1440p via HDMI from my Mobility 5870?...
> Thanks!


According to ATI's website, it says that the max output of the 5870 is 2560 x 1600, so yes, within the range of these monitors.

EDIT: ROFL. Forgot the mobility part.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phemark*
> 
> So guys, would I be able to get full 1440p via HDMI from my Mobility 5870?...
> Thanks!


Unlikely. Although HDMI may be able to drive 2560x1440, a HDMI single link 1440p signal is not the same as a DL-DVI 1440p signal. Adapters may not do the conversion properly. You need an adapter that is specifically rated at 2560x1600.


----------



## Passion

I am thinking about doing a PLP setup with my Catleap. Does anyone have any recommendations for the best monitor to use? It would be ideal if the dimensions can also match up with the Catleap. They would function only for multitasking; I wouldn't game on them.

However, if the difference in image quality would be drastically different from the Catleap, to a point that it's obvious that I'm using two different monitors, then I'll probably just stick to a single Catleap, or get two (using the second one for extra "real estate").

I'm currently looking at these two options:

1) Dell UltraSharp 1703FP
2) Dell Ultrasharp 2001FP


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Unlikely. Although HDMI may be able to drive 2560x1440, a HDMI single link 1440p signal is not the same as a DL-DVI 1440p signal. Adapters may not do the conversion properly. You need an adapter that is specifically rated at 2560x1600.


Wait are you saying that HDMI can't push 1440p?

I have to use DVI?!

What!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

HDMI 1.3 and 1.4 can both push 1440p but you need to make sure the adapter is 1.3 or 1.4 compliant and the electronics inside can handle the res.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> HDMI 1.3 and 1.4 can both push 1440p but you need to make sure the adapter is 1.3 or 1.4 compliant.


I honestly have no idea!

I'll have to find out then eh!

I don't care much for HDMI anyways my Monitors speakers are junk haha.


----------



## rollOver

How are the other green sum returns going? Mine has been stuck in "clearance delay" with DHL since Friday though green sum insists he's sent them all the paperwork for which they asked.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Wait are you saying that HDMI can't push 1440p?
> I have to use DVI?!
> What!


No, I am not saying that.

A 1440p single link HDMI signal is not a 1440p DL-DVI signal. That is what I am saying. Catleaps are so cheap that I don't believe that their electronics can handle a single-link DVI signal running at >165mhz pixel clock, which is what you would get with your "standard" HDMI -> DL-DVI passive adapter.


----------



## phemark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> No, I am not saying that.
> A 1440p single link HDMI signal is not a 1440p DL-DVI signal. That is what I am saying. Catleaps are so cheap that I don't believe that their electronics can handle a single-link DVI signal running at >165mhz pixel clock, which is what you would get with your "standard" HDMI -> DL-DVI passive adapter.


How can we check what kind of electronics are in Catleaps?
Is anyone using HDMI to connect to their Catleaps?

If i can get it properly connected via HDMI, im getting one!


----------



## burksdb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> How are the other green sum returns going? Mine has been stuck in "clearance delay" with DHL since Friday though green sum insists he's sent them all the paperwork for which they asked.


DHL is picking mine up tomorrow i will post on the status. There expected delivery date to Korea was the 12th.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> Anyone get their monitor from green-sum recently? People were posting about DOA monitors recently, but seeing as how quick the turn around is, I was just wondering if he still had a bad batch.


i got one a few weeks ago. it wasnt doa but has any issues with red dots and flickering. contacted green-sum about the issue and he's paying return shipping so i can send it back


----------



## slyr114

got mine today, no dead pixels but it does seem to have a lot of backlight bleed around the corners which i can live with but it is something to be wary of for future buyers, its a great screen!


----------



## Wiz33

I got mine from Greensum a few weeks ago. Never check for dead pixel as I'm more concern with stuck bright color ones and luckily didn't have any of those. I'm perfectly happy with it as it much nicer than my 2407 at the office.


----------



## CursiveQ

update on my situation: the monitor was delivered to greensum on june 4th and i still have not received a refund. he is saying that it needs to be checked for defect, the monitor is obviously DOA. i am very unhappy as i have no monitor and my money has been tied up. i just sent him a message, if i don't get a refund soon then im gonna file a dispute and leave negative feedback.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> update on my situation: the monitor was delivered to greensum on june 4th and i still have not received a refund. he is saying that it needs to be checked for defect, the monitor is obviously DOA. i am very unhappy as i have no monitor and my money has been tied up. i just sent him a message, if i don't get a refund soon then im gonna file a dispute and leave negative feedback.


Don't worry you'll get refunded.
If it's DOA he can see it, so don't worry


----------



## Onoroian

received my gtx 680 today and hooked up the catleap:no dead pixels,minimal backlight bleeding on the edges.
im happy with purchase


----------



## henrygale

Thanks for all the responses! I'd be kind of iffy going with green-sum for the moment...I hope BCC's inventory is from a better batch. =/


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> Thanks for all the responses! I'd be kind of iffy going with green-sum for the moment...I hope BCC's inventory is from a better batch. =/


I did the same thing, went with BCC. Got my monitors and they arrived with no dead pixels and no backlight issues, and I ordered the standard ones.


----------



## 260870

I just got my pixel perfect catleap from BCC. First of all there is one tiny purple-looking pixel, can I fix that?

Secondly either mine still has some screen protector on that i cant find the edge to or mine has a pretty terrible AG coating on it.


----------



## corpjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> I just got my pixel perfect catleap from BCC. First of all there is one tiny purple-looking pixel, can I fix that?
> Secondly either mine still has some screen protector on that i cant find the edge to or mine has a pretty terrible AG coating on it.


I hope my perfect pixel will actually be perfect pixel from BCC.. has yours got a glossy finish?

Once I get my monitor are there any utilities I can use to detect dead pixels or is it normally obvious by looking at it?


----------



## 260870

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> has yours got a glossy finish?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> either mine still has some screen protector on that i cant find the edge to or mine has a pretty terrible AG coating on it.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*


Can you take a pic of the monitor, so we can see if it's an AG one?

As far as the pixel, there are certain apps that can 'fix' stuck pixels, or you can try 'gently' 'massaging' or 'tapping' the area where the purple pixel is. Make sure you use a towel, or rage between your fingernail and the screen.


----------



## 260870

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Can you take a pic of the monitor, so we can see if it's an AG one?
> As far as the pixel, there are certain apps that can 'fix' stuck pixels, or you can try 'gently' 'massaging' or 'tapping' the area where the purple pixel is. Make sure you use a towel, or rage between your fingernail and the screen.


Ill try take a pic, the AG (if thats what it is) is most noticable on white and grays, on colours I don't really notice.

I am not the best cameraman though

EDIT:


Got some other stuff for reference of sharpness I guess.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> Ill try take a pic, the AG (if thats what it is) is most noticable on white and grays, on colours I don't really notice.
> I am not the best cameraman though


Basically, if the screen isn't as glossy as the bezel, you have one with AG. The AG coating on the Dells I had did that. It would look grainy/dirty.


----------



## 260870

Is there a guide for how to remove the AG coating from the Catleap? Thanks for help so far BTW.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> Is there a guide for how to remove the AG coating from the Catleap? Thanks for help so far BTW.


There are guides for removing the AG coating from monitors, Dell definitely being one that is here somewhere.

However, it is an extremely risky adventure that can, if done incorrectly, ruin the polarizer. This is not to say that people haven't been successful with it, but there have been failures as well.

This is one of the threads I remember reading, but if you just search 'remove ag coating' you'll get others.


----------



## 260870

Thanks for the link. I will see how this monitor holds up in games, if the AG annoys me I will deffs remove it, no compromise. Good thing these monitors are cheap.


----------



## corpjones

If you have a glossy one can that still have AG? or does glossy = no AG?

Its just I'm getting a glossy one but not sure if theres a risk i'll get one with AG


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> If you have a glossy one can that still have AG? or does glossy = no AG?
> Its just I'm getting a glossy one but not sure if theres a risk i'll get one with AG


Glossy = no anti glare

Some monitor's ag coating isn't so bad, but others, like Dell, it's a bit too much.


----------



## corpjones

Quote:


> Glossy = no anti glare
> 
> Some monitor's ag coating isn't so bad, but others, like Dell, it's a bit too much.


Ah brill thanks I was getting very worried, I already asked BCC to send me a glossy one and he said he'll check it for me before sending so I should be ok.


----------



## visata

Does catleap have any flickering when you turn down the brightness? I'm returning my Dell U2412m due to this issue and looking for a replacement.

Here is what it looks like through smartphone:


----------



## Kakurai

Just got a pixel perfect today. Outstanding monitor, there were no problems, however after a few hours the monitor suddenly faded to black. Switching the monitor off and back on allows me to get picture again, but once again it fades to black after a few seconds. The back light is still on so I don't think there's a problem with the monitor.. It's almost as if it's getting no signal (but if that were true the backlight wouldn't be on). Has anyone else had or heard of this problem? Any ideas of the cause or solution? Thanks.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kakurai*
> 
> Just got a pixel perfect today. Outstanding monitor, there were no problems, however after a few hours the monitor suddenly faded to black. Switching the monitor off and back on allows me to get picture again, but once again it fades to black after a few seconds. The back light is still on so I don't think there's a problem with the monitor.. It's almost as if it's getting no signal (but if that were true the backlight wouldn't be on). Has anyone else had or heard of this problem? Any ideas of the cause or solution? Thanks.


I wonder if Yamakasi has changed the vendor for their circuit boards on the Q270, sure seems like a lot of outright DOAs or quick failures lately!


----------



## henrygale

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kakurai*
> 
> Just got a pixel perfect today. Outstanding monitor, there were no problems, however after a few hours the monitor suddenly faded to black. Switching the monitor off and back on allows me to get picture again, but once again it fades to black after a few seconds. The back light is still on so I don't think there's a problem with the monitor.. It's almost as if it's getting no signal (but if that were true the backlight wouldn't be on). Has anyone else had or heard of this problem? Any ideas of the cause or solution? Thanks.


Which seller did you buy from? I just ordered with bcc last night and I'm worried it's not only greensum with a batch of bad monitors.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> Which seller did you buy from? I just ordered with bcc last night and I'm worried it's not only greensum with a batch of bad monitors.


From the posts I've seen the past days, it seems to be only greensum.


----------



## Sensai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> I leave you all with an album of various steps of setting my monitors up. If anyone wants a picture of anything, just let me know.
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/nO9ZO


With a DotA 2 mouse pad.

God damn, I want that set up.

[Edit:]

I'm really, really close to jumping on one of these instead of just sitting around talking about it/drooling at it. I don't have a Paypal/eBay account, which is probably my only real barrier at this point. Hahaha.


----------



## rasors

ordered two Catleaps with speakers with green_sum this past saturday. Received it on Tuesday. Super fast shipping. I was not too thrilled about the packaging. It was just the two monitor boxes taped together and shipped like that. No additional packaging whatsoever.

Monitor 1 had a 2 stuck pixels that seemed to fix itself after an hour.
Monitor 2 has 1 stuck pixel on the left middle only when I use a black background.

I tried running Pixel Sweeper for a few mins, tapping and massaging but it didnt work.

1) Is this pixel stuck or considered dead?
2) how long should i run the Pixel Sweeper program for ?
3) Any other suggestions?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rasors*
> 
> ordered two Catleaps with speakers with green_sum this past saturday. Received it on Tuesday. Super fast shipping. I was not too thrilled about the packaging. It was just the two monitor boxes taped together and shipped like that. No additional packaging whatsoever.
> Monitor 1 had a 2 stuck pixels that seemed to fix itself after an hour.
> Monitor 2 has 1 stuck pixel on the left middle only when I use a black background.
> I tried running Pixel Sweeper for a few mins, tapping and massaging but it didnt work.
> 1) Is this pixel stuck or considered dead?
> 2) how long should i run the Pixel Sweeper program for ?
> 3) Any other suggestions?


*1. Get a lightly damp, warm cloth.
2. Identify the exact area where the pixel is stuck.
3. Turn off the monitor with the computer on (such that an image will display when you turn it back on).
4. Apply a light amount of pressure with the damp cloth to the exact area the pixel is stuck.
5. While pressure is being applied, turn on the monitor.
6. Release pressure once you see an image appear on the screen.*

It usually works the first time but you might need to make multiple attempts.


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rasors*
> 
> ordered two Catleaps with speakers with green_sum this past saturday. Received it on Tuesday. Super fast shipping. I was not too thrilled about the packaging. It was just the two monitor boxes taped together and shipped like that. No additional packaging whatsoever.
> Monitor 1 had a 2 stuck pixels that seemed to fix itself after an hour.
> Monitor 2 has 1 stuck pixel on the left middle only when I use a black background.
> I tried running Pixel Sweeper for a few mins, tapping and massaging but it didnt work.
> 1) Is this pixel stuck or considered dead?
> 2) how long should i run the Pixel Sweeper program for ?
> 3) Any other suggestions?


So it sounds like greensum ships them cheaply but I usually hear most people don't have too many dead or stuck pixels. I think I'm gonna order from him by at the end of this month.


----------



## braveblade

Finally pulled the trigger on q270 multi perfect pixel from green-sum. He promised to check before shipping. Finger crossed!
Also double ebay bucks for today. $17.60 ebay bucks for future purchase.


----------



## Kosta88

Here it is, if anyone is interested. Perfect pixels, very nice picture quality, only apparently a contrast which doesn't go above 520:1 on factory default, no matter the light setting.









Can anyone with a colorimeter do a measurement? I can't believe a monitor on specs does 1000:1, and mine is just so poor.

http://forum.avsim.net/topic/375902-catleap-q270-led-ergotron-mx-arm/


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rasors*
> 
> ordered two Catleaps with speakers with green_sum this past saturday. Received it on Tuesday. Super fast shipping. I was not too thrilled about the packaging. It was just the two monitor boxes taped together and shipped like that. No additional packaging whatsoever.
> Monitor 1 had a 2 stuck pixels that seemed to fix itself after an hour.
> Monitor 2 has 1 stuck pixel on the left middle only when I use a black background.
> I tried running Pixel Sweeper for a few mins, tapping and massaging but it didnt work.
> 1) Is this pixel stuck or considered dead?
> 2) how long should i run the Pixel Sweeper program for ?
> 3) Any other suggestions?


I mentioned to him (green sum) that he needs to at least bubble-wrap the boxes, no response to that. Mine came as-is from the factory with thin cardboard. There were two holes torn into the cable/brick side of the box by the time it got to me.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> *1. Get a lightly damp, warm cloth.
> 2. Identify the exact area where the pixel is stuck.
> 3. Turn off the monitor with the computer on (such that an image will display when you turn it back on).
> 4. Apply a light amount of pressure with the damp cloth to the exact area the pixel is stuck.
> 5. While pressure is being applied, turn on the monitor.
> 6. Release pressure once you see an image appear on the screen.*
> It usually works the first time but you might need to make multiple attempts.


lol you quoted my post on another forum. That does indeed work in most cases.


----------



## SammichThyme

Well. I was walking to my house and the DHL guy drove by, I smiled and waived ready to find my Catleap at my door, but instead I found a paper telling me i wasn't there for the signature. Tomorrow then!


----------



## rasors

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> lol you quoted my post on another forum. That does indeed work in most cases.


thanks! I'll try this out tonight.


----------



## Hamy144

What is the main difference between the q270 and q270 SE I'm thinking of getting one maybe 3 of these whichevers best


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> What is the main difference between the q270 and q270 SE I'm thinking of getting one maybe 3 of these whichevers best


The SE has only a DVI-D input and no other inputs or audio. It also has the least input lag from my understanding.
The other models like the Multi version have HDMI and audio out.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> The SE has only a DVI-D input and no other inputs or audio. It also has the least input lag from my understanding.
> The other models like the Multi version have HDMI and audio out.


So the SE is probably a good bet then


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Also double ebay bucks for today. $17.60 ebay bucks for future purchase.


Double? Really? I got an email for 25% more June 7th only. Was there a promo code you used?


----------



## Dirtyworks

Mine is currently on hold waiting for the next movement - cleared the clearance thing pretty quick








I ordered mine from green-sum yesterday.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> What is the main difference between the q270 and q270 SE I'm thinking of getting one maybe 3 of these whichevers best


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> The SE has only a DVI-D input and no other inputs or audio. It also has the least input lag from my understanding.
> The other models like the Multi version have HDMI and audio out.


The only difference between the SE and Non-SE is:

SE = No Speakers
Non-SE = Speakers


----------



## Dirtyworks

I'm pretty sure my SE only has a the DVI..


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> I'm pretty sure my SE only has a the DVI..


And mine's the Non-SE and it only has DVI. The multi model is the only one with something other than DVI


----------



## rasors

I have the Non-Se. Speakers and DVI only.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Ahh ok.


----------



## Hamy144

Defiantly getting 4 of these been reading about them and seam to be exactly what I want
Thanks for the SE thing helped me a lot


----------



## 260870

Ok, on the weekend I am almost definitely having a crack at removing the AG coating on my Catleap. It's pretty bad, my previous two monitors had AG and I didn't mind, this is crazy though.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> lol you quoted my post on another forum. That does indeed work in most cases.


Oh yes








Didn't want to post where I got it from because we can't talk about it here


----------



## phillyd

I'm thinking about grabbing one of these bad boys. anything i should know/tips?
I'll run it off of at least two GTX 670's


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> I'm thinking about grabbing one of these bad boys. anything i should know/tips?
> I'll run it off of at least two GTX 670's


My understanding is your praying for a 2b that they dont ship anymore or hoping that a PCB supplier gets revealed.

Also you want 1 input to avoid input lag...

My knowledge is limited on this subject but for the last three days i have been absorbing as much as possible.


----------



## phillyd

huh?
I'm going to SLI 670's.
that simple
whats the difference for the 2b and the other ones?


----------



## MAD-DUKE

You can overclock the 2b up to 120 hz the other ones cap out at 60/65 hz


----------



## phillyd

ok, well I dont care all that much for higher frame rates. i just want the price/resolution.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

You can find this Brand of Korean Monitor on Ebay as low as 250
Or on Amazon as low as 695

You can find multiple spinoff versions.. of this type of monitor on ebay.
One type sells in the US at Microcenter called:
EQ276W for 400

Maximum Resolution 2560 x 1440 for all of them


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> My understanding is your praying for a 2b that they dont ship anymore or hoping that a PCB supplier gets revealed.
> Also you want 1 input to avoid input lag...
> My knowledge is limited on this subject but for the last three days i have been absorbing as much as possible.


How does his post have anything to do with a 2B...


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> How does his post have anything to do with a 2B...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> anything i should know/tips?


I would want to know that I am praying for a 2b, cause hz do matter to me.


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Defiantly getting 4 of these been reading about them and seam to be exactly what I want
> Thanks for the SE thing helped me a lot


Whoever you decide to buy them from message them first. They will likely offer you a deal.


----------



## Cifer2020

I Just ordered a new Catleap because of all the positive feedback.
Thanks for all the great info here.

Very excited!









P.S.- I'll post pics soon.


----------



## CursiveQ

received my refund from greensum this morning. to recap: the monitor was DOA, greensum paid return shipping and refunded me the money two days after he received the monitor.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> received my refund from greensum this morning. to recap: the monitor was DOA, greensum paid return shipping and refunded me the money two days after he received the monitor.


So you decided you didn't want the monitor, or are you buying from another seller?


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CursiveQ*
> 
> received my refund from greensum this morning. to recap: the monitor was DOA, greensum paid return shipping and refunded me the money two days after he received the monitor.


I was planning on ordering from green sum so this is both good and bad news. its good because it showed that he refunded your money and also paid for the return shipping but its also bad because it shows that you did in fact recieve a broken monitor from him( although not his fault) his batch could be bad. I guess I'll have to take my chances but his prices are much lower then competitors I've seen his for about 310 and his perfect pixels are only 360 I believe


----------



## CursiveQ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> So you decided you didn't want the monitor, or are you buying from another seller?


i ordered another monitor from bigclothcraft. i decided i wanted an achieva shimian instead because of the stand on the catleap. it came in two days and worked perfectly. couldn't be happier. but i am glad that greensum stands behind his products and refunded my money.


----------



## apav

Just curious guys.

I bought a stand for this mount. If I get a perfectly fine monitor, I will go ahead and take the old stand off (as tedious as that is) and mount the new stand. But let's say after I mount it I encounter a problem and I need to return the monitor.

Does taking the stand off void the warranty? Also is it easy or possible to put the old stand back on? Or will the seller know somehow that I took the stand off if it voids the warranty?


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattbag*
> 
> I was planning on ordering from green sum so this is both good and bad news. its good because it showed that he refunded your money and also paid for the return shipping but its also bad because it shows that you did in fact recieve a broken monitor from him( although not his fault) his batch could be bad. I guess I'll have to take my chances but his prices are much lower then competitors I've seen his for about 310 and his perfect pixels are only 360 I believe


Not convincing you otherwise from ordering from green-sum, more power to you if you want to order from him. But I personally purchased from bigclothcraft and received two perfectly find non-pixel perfect monitors.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Not convincing you otherwise from ordering from green-sum, more power to you if you want to order from him. But I personally purchased from bigclothcraft and received two perfectly find non-pixel perfect monitors.


I heard very good stories about green-sum. Why do you think bigclothcraft is better?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Well green sum has had either a bad batch or something is amiss. They have had some bad comments on here over the last month and someone reported his monitor came in from greensum without any bubble wrap - just the box.

Sometimes you get what you pay for. Those that are still out there ordering please keep the community posted about your shipping experiences and monitor quality.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Well green sum has had either a bad batch or something is amiss. They have had some bad comments on here over the last month and someone reported his monitor came in from greensum without any bubble wrap - just the box.
> Sometimes you get what you pay for. Those that are still out there ordering please keep the community posted about your shipping experiences and monitor quality.


That's me, just the monitor in the factory box, no additional packing let alone double-boxing. My monitor was DOA, as well as at least three others here lately with two or more reporting a working monitor that soon went "black" back-light but no signal coming through. Green sum mentioned that he monitored the thread here so I would ask him about this "batch' first if you're planning to order with him. He will no doubt give you the assurance others have mentioned here of checking your monitor before shipping out. My monitor had an unbroken 'SE' factory seal, no doubt it was just sent on as it came from the factory.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> That's me, just the monitor in the factory box, no additional packing let alone double-boxing. My monitor was DOA, as well as at least three others here lately with two or more reporting a working monitor that soon went "black" back-light but no signal coming through. Green sum mentioned that he monitored the thread here so I would ask him about this "batch' first if you're planning to order with him. He will no doubt give you the assurance others have mentioned here of checking your monitor before shipping out. My monitor had an unbroken 'SE' factory seal, no doubt it was just sent on as it came from the factory.


Exactly. They are working with people just ensure they are checking. Greensum is a company name BTW not a person.


----------



## mxgt

First post here, I've been following this thread (with great worry I may add with the news of some DOA greensum monitors).

I ordered a catleap off greensum for £199 on Saturday and it turned up this morning. It would've arrived yesterday but I had to pay a £34 customs charge which isn't too bad.

It was well boxed, just wish the dual link DVI cable was a bit longer, probably going to buy a longer one. So far I've had no problems, plugged it in and it works fine, no dead pixels, no defects from what I can see. Extremely impressed so far, it's a ridiculously good upgrade over my previous 21" 1080p monitor.

Just hoping it lasts me for a while









Now I just need to order my GTX 670!


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Exactly. They are working with people just ensure they are checking. Greensum is a company name BTW not a person.


Yes, not using real world names here though.


----------



## bf2badass

catleap 120 hz being del today dhl 2 miles from house come on korea to michigan 2 days fast


----------



## Lapua

My Catleap from greensum sometimes powers on in a state with the correct image on the screen, but overlaid is a lot of static noise. It resembles the picture you get on an analog TV set if you are receiving a channel from a faraway city. If I unplug my Apple mDP->DVI-D or my Monoprice adapter and then plug it back in, the static disappears.

Is this a sign of a defective monitor?


----------



## corpjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxgt*
> 
> First post here, I've been following this thread (with great worry I may add with the news of some DOA greensum monitors).
> I ordered a catleap off greensum for £199 on Saturday and it turned up this morning. It would've arrived yesterday but I had to pay a £34 customs charge which isn't too bad.
> It was well boxed, just wish the dual link DVI cable was a bit longer, probably going to buy a longer one. So far I've had no problems, plugged it in and it works fine, no dead pixels, no defects from what I can see. Extremely impressed so far, it's a ridiculously good upgrade over my previous 21" 1080p monitor.
> Just hoping it lasts me for a while
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I just need to order my GTX 670!


Did anyone from the UK buy from BCC and pay customs? mine is arriving on Monday and not sure if i'll have to pay..


----------



## Ferling Design

So i want to clean my catleap! My screen has no ag coating









i had already purchased this kit, from work

the spray is Deionized Water with proprietary polymers. The polymers are suppose to protect plastic from scratches and reduce previous scuffs/marks.

I heard to use distilled water only? How do you clean your Catleap screen?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lapua*
> 
> My Catleap from greensum sometimes powers on in a state with the correct image on the screen, but overlaid is a lot of static noise. It resembles the picture you get on an analog TV set if you are receiving a channel from a faraway city. If I unplug my Apple mDP->DVI-D or my Monoprice adapter and then plug it back in, the static disappears.
> Is this a sign of a defective monitor?


I have had this on a BenQ monitor as well, happened when restoring from a display 'sleep'. When did yours occur?


----------



## Lapua

Yes, it occurs on resume from sleep. Is this likely to be a fault with my MBP rather than the monitor? It occurs with both the Apple and Monoprice adapters, so I think the problem doesn't lie with the adapter.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lapua*
> 
> Yes, it occurs on resume from sleep. Is this likely to be a fault with my MBP rather than the monitor? It occurs with both the Apple and Monoprice adapters, so I think the problem doesn't lie with the adapter.


It is a fairly common issue, at least with cheaper adapters. I have not heard of it happening with Apple branded adapters. Do you have another monitor you can test the adapters with to eliminate the Catleap?

apple thread on the issue


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Just curious guys.
> I bought a stand for this mount. If I get a perfectly fine monitor, I will go ahead and take the old stand off (as tedious as that is) and mount the new stand. But let's say after I mount it I encounter a problem and I need to return the monitor.
> Does taking the stand off void the warranty? Also is it easy or possible to put the old stand back on? Or will the seller know somehow that I took the stand off if it voids the warranty?


Technically, the second you pry that bezel you void your warranty. You can always take the chance, and try to reattach it to send it back for repair, but if they wanted to be thorough, they probably could deny you. I took mine off, and if something happens to my Catleap, knock on wood, I guess I'll be seeing what I'd do.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling Design*
> 
> So i want to clean my catleap! My screen has no ag coating
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i had already purchased this kit, from work
> the spray is Deionized Water with proprietary polymers. The polymers are suppose to protect plastic from scratches and reduce previous scuffs/marks.
> I heard to use distilled water only? How do you clean your Catleap screen?


I just use an old scrap of t-shirt material that I only use to clean screens. I wet that with the hottest water I can stand(tap water in my case), and wring it out good. Then I wipe the screen, drying it with a separate handkerchief that I only use to dry cleaned screens.









I never have an issue.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Mine, from greensum, is still at "Incheon outskirt of Seoul"


----------



## SammichThyme

Just got my Cat today! No dead pixels, only a slight amount of bleed, but my old 23" 1080p was worse. Really love it but this stand is miserable. I ordered a new one from monoprice. I'm really satisfied with this purchase!


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> Just got my Cat today! No dead pixels, only a slight amount of bleed, but my old 23" 1080p was worse. Really love it but this stand is miserable. I ordered a new one from monoprice. I'm really satisfied with this purchase!


You took the words right out of my mouth!

Basically what he said. I got it today from BCC, no dead pixels (that I can see yet) and no backlight bleed. The stand is absolute garbage, the monitor leans forward so much I'm afraid the stand isn't going to hold it and it will fall flat onto my keyboard.

Bought the desk stand from monoprice, still awaiting for that to arrive! So I will be rid of this miserable stand soon.

The only issue I had was that I seem to have gotten a defective DVI cable. I plug it into my Catleap (with my other monitor plugged in to one gpu with a separate DVI cable) the screen is lit but blank, the power light is flashing green, and Windows detects another monitor but won't display its picture. Tried plugging it in to both my gpu's. No dice. At this point I was starting to get scared that I got a DOA monitor. But then I realized I forgot a step. I used my other DVI cable I was currently using on my old monitor, and plugged it into my Catleap. Boom, picture showed, and it looks beautiful.

Tried plugging the DVI cable I got from my Catleap into my old monitor, and it didn't even detect anything was plugged into my DVI port. This is not really a problem, since DVI cables are easily replaced, but I think it would be a good idea for him to check the DVI cables as well as the monitor.

Overall amazing monitor. I tested it out playing Skyrim, and I was blown away. One other complete thing that shocked me, was (at least in Skyrim, not in other games) there was practically no performance loss going from 1080p to 1440p. I was getting on average 70-80 fps outdoors and 90-100 fps indoors (on max everything with no texture mods). It dips into the 40's when something intensive is happening (like the warzones mod), but that's very rare and only for a couple seconds. I was literally getting the same last night on my 1080p monitor. I'm not sure how that is possible. 12.6 beta drivers have been nothing short of amazing for me.


----------



## mva5580

For anyone who purchased through green sum, how early were you able to track it? I ordered on Tuesday night, I see a DHL tracking #, but whenever I try to track it I get no results back. Does this mean it hasn't even been shipped out yet?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mva5580*
> 
> For anyone who purchased through green sum, how early were you able to track it? I ordered on Tuesday night, I see a DHL tracking #, but whenever I try to track it I get no results back. Does this mean it hasn't even been shipped out yet?


DHL takes awhile for them to update the shipment tracking. Try it later tonight or tomorrow. You should be able to see it by now.


----------



## mva5580

So this most likely means I won't be getting it today? I was hoping considering the time frame and what some others have said on here that I would see it today.


----------



## An4rchyZ

Hey just received a Yamikasi Catleap and it wont turn on







I plugged the ac adaptor into the wall then into the monitor. The ac adaptor has a very faint green light on that blinks. Any ideas?


----------



## Zipvex143258

Just ordered the SE version (regular, not perfect pixel) from bigclothcraft as it seemed to be worth an extra $15 over green-sum due to some negative feedback recently. I was concerned over getting a monitor with the AG coating, and messaged them on e-bay requesting a monitor with a glossy screen. Within an hour, I got this response,

Hello
Of course!
I will send glossy screen.
Thanks

I will update the status whether or not they were true to their word! One final noob question.. How do I go about calibrating the color? Is there a way to do it without purchasing calibration software and hardware? Thanks.


----------



## Ferling Design

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mva5580*
> 
> For anyone who purchased through green sum, how early were you able to track it? I ordered on Tuesday night, I see a DHL tracking #, but whenever I try to track it I get no results back. Does this mean it hasn't even been shipped out yet?


If your are tracking through ebay... You wont have any luck. Copy the tracking number provided and paste it on dhl's website.

Let me know if this helped


----------



## mva5580

I've tried it on dhls site too, same thing. Nothing.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mva5580*
> 
> I've tried it on dhls site too, same thing. Nothing.


I purchased on June 7, and green-sum shipped it June 8 6:30pm korean time. The dhl tracking page shows the package is in local sorting facility right now. Not sure if green-sum checked the monitor as he promised since he shipped so quickly. Fingers crossed!


----------



## mva5580

Local sorting facility as in the local sorting facility where you live? If that's the case, it just seems like mine should be ahead of that since I ordered it 2 days earlier. But I see nothing in tracking at all.


----------



## twizted01

does anyone know where I can find a good replacement stand that ships in Canada? I saw the monoprice one but apparently shipping costs $39 to ship to Toronto..


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mva5580*
> 
> Local sorting facility as in the local sorting facility where you live? If that's the case, it just seems like mine should be ahead of that since I ordered it 2 days earlier. But I see nothing in tracking at all.


of course it's in seoul's local facility. I'm in Canada.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> Hey just received a Yamikasi Catleap and it wont turn on
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I plugged the ac adaptor into the wall then into the monitor. The ac adaptor has a very faint green light on that blinks. Any ideas?


Contact your seller, but it sounds like you may have a bad power adapter. The light should not be faint and definitely shouldn't blink under normal conditions.

If you have a multimeter you can, very carefully, check across the top and bottom pins for a clean (no spikes) constant 24v DC.


----------



## An4rchyZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Contact your seller, but it sounds like you may have a bad power adapter. The light should not be faint and definitely shouldn't blink under normal conditions.
> If you have a multimeter you can, very carefully, check across the top and bottom pins for a clean (no spikes) constant 24v DC.


Alirght ill try a new adapter


----------



## bf2badass

Cat leap just came in hope all goes well 120hZ have to ck when I get off work was in Korea yesterday at my house Michigan today seller bcc .Let everyone know how it goes


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> Alirght ill try a new adapter


By adapter I mean the whole power brick, not the plug adapter.


----------



## FEAST

I want one of the sexy 27" catleaps right now. I want to OC it to 120hz. I need a link to buy everything immediately god I want one so bad.


----------



## An4rchyZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> By adapter I mean the whole power brick, not the plug adapter.


Yep I know thanks for checking on me.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> Yep I know thanks for checking on me.


You're welcome, just making sure, most people have a hard time finding them!


----------



## antonbrk

This dual-link DVI extension cable works fine on my Catleap Q270 SE. Price-matched at (Canadian) Memory Express, it was under $8. Mine was a greensum order, and was flawless. Great to hear that greensum has shown willingness, like bigclothcraft, to cover return shipping cost for the rare occasion when an order arrives DOA. That's a wise business decision that will easily pay for itself with higher trust and therefore increased sales to readers of these OCN pages.

Startech 10 ft DVI-D Dual Link Monitor Extension Cable - M/F DVIDDMF10
http://www.shopbot.ca/pp-startech-10-ft-dvi-d-dual-link-monitor-extension-cable-mf-dviddmf10-startech-price-182868.html


----------



## DontLikeYou

So DHL didn't send my Catleap today, maybe because it was storming all day. Anyone know if BCC will ships on Saturday or will I have to wait till Monday now? It is listed on the tracker as "With delivery courier".


----------



## Abominator

Okay so I got a multi Q270 and I was wondering about the HDMI port. I'll be pluggin my xbox into the monitor via HDMI. This leads me to a problem. The monitor has speakers and I also have a surround sound system. I would prefer to use my surround sound system over the onboard speakers on my monitor as the quality is probably better. Will the HDMI cable automatically carry sound from my xbox via the HDMI cable and output sound from the onboard speakers or will my xbox output it's sound via the surround sound system I have plugged into it?

If anyone could elaborate on this I would be greatly appreciative. To reiterate I don't want the sound to play through the speakers on my Q270, thanks.


----------



## 260870

Ok I got my monitor soaking to remove the AG coating. I will post back with how it goes.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> Okay so I got a multi Q270 and I was wondering about the HDMI port. I'll be pluggin my xbox into the monitor via HDMI. This leads me to a problem. The monitor has speakers and I also have a surround sound system. I would prefer to use my surround sound system over the onboard speakers on my monitor as the quality is probably better. Will the HDMI cable automatically carry sound from my xbox via the HDMI cable and output sound from the onboard speakers or will my xbox output it's sound via the surround sound system I have plugged into it?
> If anyone could elaborate on this I would be greatly appreciative. To reiterate I don't want the sound to play through the speakers on my Q270, thanks.


I don't have a Catleap Multi, but the way I have my Xbox setup is the video goes through HDMI, and the audio goes out through the Optical jack to my surround sound. Reason for doing this is I don't think you can use the AV audio output when using HDMI for video. Just play with the Xbox settings and you'll find out how to change the audio output. I'm not sure the multi monitor even has the capability of doing audio over HDMI.


----------



## Abominator

Yeah I had to get a special adapter to allow for video via hdmi and audio via my sound system. Also according to the information on the monitor I brought it said the input was a HDMI (video) port so I assume that it's only a for video but I assumed checking just in case this wasn't the case wouldn't hurt. When it arrives next week I'll have a play around with the xbox settings if the audio does end up coming through via HDMI. If push comes to shove and I can't figure out a good solution I'll simply use my old monitor or get a new one for the xbox and leave the Q270 to my pc.

Edit.

Also another option would be to go into the monitors settings and mute the speakers. Is the there a volume control in the settings for the speakers? Are the settings in english?


----------



## 260870

Ok removed the AG coating from my Catleap, looks so pretty now.


----------



## bf2badass

GOT CATLEAP 120 HZ ALL I CAN SAY IS WOW WOW RUNNING ON 680 AMP FROM ZOTAC BF3 CRYSIS2 MAX 3 ALL GREAT COMING FROM DELL 24 *** NO DEAD PIXS I CAN SEE VERY VERY LITTLE BLEED SO FAR AT 95 HZ ONLY PLAY WITH IT FOR 1 HOUR SET UP WAS A SNAP NO ISSUE WHAT SO EVER. ORDER FROM BCC WILL HAVE TO GOTO WORK 12 HOUR WILL TRY TO POST PICS LATER GREAT GREAT MONITOR


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whiskerz*
> 
> Ok removed the AG coating from my Catleap, looks so pretty now.


Wow, congrats man, well done.

How did you find it to remove ? risky ?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> Yeah I had to get a special adapter to allow for video via hdmi and audio via my sound system. Also according to the information on the monitor I brought it said the input was a HDMI (video) port so I assume that it's only a for video but I assumed checking just in case this wasn't the case wouldn't hurt. When it arrives next week I'll have a play around with the xbox settings if the audio does end up coming through via HDMI. If push comes to shove and I can't figure out a good solution I'll simply use my old monitor or get a new one for the xbox and leave the Q270 to my pc.
> Edit.
> Also another option would be to go into the monitors settings and mute the speakers. Is the there a volume control in the settings for the speakers? Are the settings in english?


I bought a q270 multi as well. Does it mean I cannot use my speaker while playing 360 via HDNI without the adapter you are talking about?


----------



## 260870

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Wow, congrats man, well done.
> 
> How did you find it to remove ? risky ?


I found it pretty easy. I knew nothing about how to open these up or do anything, just knew how to remove the AG coating. Just unscrewed and pried open, accidentally unplugged some cables when pulling screen away from the body, but they had obvious places to plug back in. I ended up soaking under wet paper towel for 7 hours cause I wanted to be extra-sure I wasn't gonna rip up anything I shouldn't.

I knew there was risk involved but the coating my monitor had was just so bad, made the monitor worse than my last.


----------



## Hamy144

Just been looking at the outrageous prices HMRC want to charge me
Doubling the price of the monitor
But i think i may have a way to dodge the charges but im not sure about it yet but my dad thinks it might work


----------



## thecrim

Can someone confirm that the overclockable multi sold by BCC has a 6ms response time and not 2/3x that of a non multi 2b model?


----------



## corpjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Just been looking at the outrageous prices HMRC want to charge me
> Doubling the price of the monitor
> But i think i may have a way to dodge the charges but im not sure about it yet but my dad thinks it might work


How much did they want to charge you? Mine is in customs right now.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> How much did they want to charge you? Mine is in customs right now.


14% duty on £239 and then VAT at 20% on top of that


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thecrim*
> 
> Can someone confirm that the overclockable multi sold by BCC has a 6ms response time and not 2/3x that of a non multi 2b model?


The overclockable Catleaps BCC has right now are MULTI, I can not see them having better input lag than any other Catleap MULTI.


----------



## corpjones

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> How much did they want to charge you? Mine is in customs right now.
> 
> 
> 
> 14% duty on £239 and then VAT at 20% on top of that
Click to expand...

That's a lot, who did you buy from? , hopefully mine won't be as high, didn't budget for that much tax.
I read earlier in the thread someone got charged £33 which seemed more reasonable.


----------



## jam3s

how do I know if my catleap is overclockable to 120 or 90hz?

Mine is en route from a member here on OCN.

I PM'd him and he has no idea if it's even possible (his reason was that he never tried. -- ie he doesn't know).


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> how do I know if my catleap is overclockable to 120 or 90hz?
> Mine is en route from a member here on OCN.
> I PM'd him and he has no idea if it's even possible (his reason was that he never tried. -- ie he doesn't know).


http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4380_30#post_17399145


----------



## jam3s

Crossing my fingers then.

And also: I'm guessing if i've got the 2B catleap, all I do is set 120Hz or 90z in the display properties?

Or is it more complex than that?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *corpjones*
> 
> That's a lot, who did you buy from? , hopefully mine won't be as high, didn't budget for that much tax.
> I read earlier in the thread someone got charged £33 which seemed more reasonable.


doesnt matter who you buy from HMRC will get you

And HMRC are never reasonable


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Crossing my fingers then.
> And also: I'm guessing if i've got the 2B catleap, all I do is set 120Hz or 90z in the display properties?
> Or is it more complex than that?


If you have an Nvidia card, which your sigrig says you do, just open up the Nvidia Control panel, go to Change Resoultion, click Create Custom Resolution, and all you have to change there is the refresh rate, then apply. If you go too far over, the screen will just show wacky lines for 15ish seconds then revert to the old resolution.


----------



## 66racer

Hi guys,

Looking into getting one of these, are they still shipping 2B ones or all of them newer revisions that dont OC much? Im just starting my research on this for an upgrade.

Also If I get one that only overclocks to say 70hz, is that small amount even worth it over 60hz?

Thanks!!


----------



## bf2badass

Got mine yesterday say it is not sure have 680 gtx amp blows away may dell 24 *** or something like that every game flys u won't regent buying got my from bcc


----------



## bf2badass

Yep that eazy did for frost time yesterday when I open mine love it


----------



## bf2badass

Bcc has and u will get over 70hz


----------



## 66racer

bf2--
might be better if you edit your first post and add the info since no one posted after you yet so the thread doesnt get congested


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> bf2--
> might be better if you edit your first post and add the info since no one posted after you yet so the thread doesnt get congested


This. And there's nothing wrong with putting everything into one post


----------



## Nick911

I got my monitor! Best thing ever. Some dead pixels on red and a very very minor bleed in upper left on a red screen. Other than that, flawless.


----------



## Abominator

Can anyone confirm that there are buttons to lower the volume on the Q270? Is it the up and down arrows on the bottom right of the screen?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> Can anyone confirm that there are buttons to lower the volume on the Q270? Is it the up and down arrows on the bottom right of the screen?


The ones on the far right are the power and brightness controls. Just to the left of them are buttons for the volume. I have them, even thought I don't have speakers.


----------



## Abominator

So the buttons with S/E and M above them control volume?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> So the buttons with S/E and M above them control volume?


Mine don't say anything from what I recall. It should be like this:

|________________| < bottom edge of monitor
~~~~~ < buttons
VVBBP V=Volume B=Brightnness P=Power


----------



## Abominator

Hmm those are the buttons that will be on my monitor. I'll probably just have to do some guessing when I get the monitor.


----------



## Lazarus1983

Ordered my Yamakasi Catleap Multi with Pixel Perfect from Greensum.

Nice Contact. Can´t wait to get this and work with it









Yeah and Play a little bit D3 and WOT


----------



## Dart06

Since I live in South Korea (US Army) I can just go out and look for one of these locally.

If I find and buy the 2B version, can I overclock it to 120hz (I currently have GTX 570 2.5GB SLI but sometime in the near future will have GTX 670 SLI) in the Nvidia control panel and be good to go? That will more or less decide if I buy it or not. I love my BenQ XL2420T for 120hz, but if I can get a 1440p 27" IPS that can do it, I know what I need to do.

Also, can I tell on the package if it's a 2B model?

Thanks guys!


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dart06*
> 
> Since I live in South Korea (US Army) I can just go out and look for one of these locally.
> If I find and buy the 2B version, can I overclock it to 120hz (I currently have GTX 570 2.5GB SLI but sometime in the near future will have GTX 670 SLI) in the Nvidia control panel and be good to go? That will more or less decide if I buy it or not. I love my BenQ XL2420T for 120hz, but if I can get a 1440p 27" IPS that can do it, I know what I need to do.
> Also, can I tell on the package if it's a 2B model?
> Thanks guys!


100hz limit in SLI, supposedly imposed by the SLI bridge itself. (From what I have read elsewhere)


----------



## The viking

Can one of you Yamasaki Catleap owners, tell me what size the bezel all around the monitor is? Very much interested in this monitor for a possible eyefinity project. small bezels = me likey!


----------



## Glends

about 2.5cm on the side and top.


----------



## The viking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Glends*
> 
> about 2.5cm on the side and top.


You are a gentleman and a scholar!


----------



## CrispyBread

Had the monitors for about a week now, geez, these things are dust magnets lol. Keep a duster handy!


----------



## apav

Guys, is there any way to clean the glossy bezel? I smudged it a little and have no cloth to clean it with. What kind of cloth and cleaning fluid would you recommend for this monitor?


----------



## Dart06

So If I cannot find a 2B model, which of the versions is best for gaming?

I'm super interested in the Catleap and can probably find one downtown.


----------



## erocker

Any version where you use a DVI-D cable is best for gaming. The multi-input monitors using HDMI and so on will result in input lag. The "A, B, etc." is nothing more than the month code in when they were built.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Guys, is there any way to clean the glossy bezel? I smudged it a little and have no cloth to clean it with. What kind of cloth and cleaning fluid would you recommend for this monitor?


Just the plastic bezel? A soft damp cloth and a dry cloth works fine. Since it's plastic you just don't want to use anything chemical or anything that will scratch it. Fairly simple.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dart06*
> 
> So If I cannot find a 2B model, which of the versions is best for gaming?
> I'm super interested in the Catleap and can probably find one downtown.


If you do search for it, see if there is any other monitors that we might not know about








Who knows, they probably have some more amazing monitors that we don't know about.

If you cannot find the 2B version, look for the ones without AG Coating. That is basically it, besides the SE and NON-SE, one with speaker and one without. Can't remember which is which.


----------



## Dart06

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> If you do search for it, see if there is any other monitors that we might not know about
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who knows, they probably have some more amazing monitors that we don't know about.
> If you cannot find the 2B version, look for the ones without AG Coating. That is basically it, besides the SE and NON-SE, one with speaker and one without. Can't remember which is which.


As a coating on a monitor noob goes, how will I be able to tell?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dart06*
> 
> As a coating on a monitor noob goes, how will I be able to tell?


If you can see the monitor out of the box, you can see if it looks "grainy" or "thick"
Don't know if you can tell on the box or not. Someone else has to answer that question.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> If you can see the monitor out of the box, you can see if it looks "grainy" or "thick"
> Don't know if you can tell on the box or not. Someone else has to answer that question.


AFAIK the AG models weren't marked differently from the glossy models, so there's no way to tell on the box.

*@Dart06* The only way to tell will be from looking at the monitor itself. If it's like a mirror and glossy, you're good.

Your chances of getting an AG coated one are _very_ slim though. Could be greater in Korean of course.


----------



## 66racer

So the gloss part is what we should get right? Like on laptops? What's the deal with the tempered glass versions?


----------



## asuperpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> So the gloss part is what we should get right? Like on laptops? What's the deal with the tempered glass versions?


The tempered glass model has tempered glass over it. Basically, it's stronger but isn't really necessary IMO.








\_asuperpower_/


----------



## gw280

Hey guys, so I'm soooo close to pulling the trigger on buying two of these monitors. A few questions though (I'd normally try and read through the thread to see if my answers are there, but it's 470 pages long...)

- Personally I tend to prefer tempered glass like the iMac than glossy plastic, but I've heard the Catleap's tempered glass model is cheap and has dust issues. Can anyone substantiate these claims? Anyone got any high res photos of the various models or know of any links to them?

- I assume that due to the lack of scaling hardware the only acceptable input to the monitor is [email protected] (or higher depending on what your modeline is). What happens if you set the graphics card to, say, 640x480 - does the graphics card realise that the monitor can only accept a 2560x1440 input (via EDID information or otherwise) and thus set the mode to 640x480 but scale everything up to the correct output for the monitor's sake, or does the monitor just fail to show anything? I'm running an nVIDIA GTX 670

- Any issues with running dual monitor setups with these? As I said, I have a GTX 670 and it has a pair of DVI outputs, which I believe are both dual link (one is also a DVI-I port so I guess it can drive a VGA display if necessary).

- Warranty; I've heard conflicting reports that some sellers will pay for return shipping, and some won't, in the case of a warranty claim. Is anyone able to confirm which sellers these are?


----------



## Dart06

I think this weekend I'm going to go around to the electronics retailers around Seoul and look for a Q270. Would be amazing to find a 2b version.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dart06*
> 
> I think this weekend I'm going to go around to the electronics retailers around Seoul and look for a Q270. Would be amazing to find a 2b version.


It would be amazing if you do, I wish I knew someone in Korea that can get me a 2B version


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> So the gloss part is what we should get right? Like on laptops? What's the deal with the tempered glass versions?


You can get AG too, but you can't choose to get it, it's just random. Some people prefer the AG ones. I wouldn't recommend to get the tempered glass ones since it's literally a piece of plexi glued to the screen. Just more room to get defects like dust stuck under the glass.


----------



## AllSystemsGo

Apologies if this has been answered before. But is there an SE and non SE version? What is the difference?


----------



## ice-dragoon25

SE=no speaker and non SE= speaker


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> It would be amazing if you do, I wish I knew someone in Korea that can get me a 2B version


There is one eBay seller with them but he wants like $500 for them


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> There is one eBay seller with them but he wants like $500 for them


But that is the multi version, which has huge input lag.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The multi version has around 1 frame of input lag which will not be an issue for most non-hard-core gamers


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> But that is the multi version, which has huge input lag.


Yeah I never played on one and dont plan on paying the premium in HOPES of getting it to run at 120hz. But like the other member said you might not even notice it.


----------



## Hmmmmm

Ahh to be a noob..

Seeking to find out if my weak AMD 6450 is compatible with the Catleaps..

I don't seek to run games, just HD vid..


----------



## rollOver

*update* on my return with green-sum: monitor is now in its tenth day stuck in clearance. I have contacted green-sum and DHL and their stories contradict. Green-sum says he has provided the requested documents, DHL says that customs is still waiting to receive said documents. Following up with green-sum he has promised to sort it out on Monday, he said other parcels of his are being held.

Is anyone else having more luck with their return? I am very frustrated


----------



## Abominator

If it's one frame of input lag it isn't even that bad, from memory a U2711 has about 2 frames of input lag and unless you're playing some twitch shooter at an elite level you won't notice a thing. I think this whole Q270 multi input lag has been blown out of proportion, I'm sure people are actually getting put off buying them because they are coming to the assumption that input lag in insane. Nonethless my Q270 multi arrived today although I won't be using it until thursday. Does anyone have the user manual in english for the Q270 multi, it's different from the normal version and messaging green-sum or bigclothcraft may take several days which still probably won't be an issue.


----------



## Universaldamps

So my Q270 SE came today. Purchased from green-sum. I went for the cheapest option, so no pixel perfect. I've had a decent look, and there isn't any dead/stuck/bright pixels which is great. The stand is fine, I don't mind it! Though I do have a pretty sturdy desk. In terms of image quality, it's amazing. Coming from 24" 1920x1200 to this is a really awesome upgrade. I haven't adjusted any image settings yet, so that's next on my list. +1 happy buyer.


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> *update* on my return with green-sum: monitor is now in its tenth day stuck in clearance. I have contacted green-sum and DHL and their stories contradict. Green-sum says he has provided the requested documents, DHL says that customs is still waiting to receive said documents. Following up with green-sum he has promised to sort it out on Monday, he said other parcels of his are being held.
> Is anyone else having more luck with their return? I am very frustrated


Are you in the UK? and does it say that its being held because of invoice missing?

If so I had this same problem and my catleap was held in customs for 6 working days, I had a lot of contradicting issues between Green-Sum & Parcelforce and after days of ringing up I got told that my invoice was actually there and they just use that status so they can hold your goods while they work through a backlog of goods. So remember Monday & Tuesday of last week where bank holidays so they'll have a big back log too get through.

Mine got released with no issues and I just had too pay £38 customs fees which was what I was told I would pay, still this monitor was well worth all that.

Good luck with getting your monitor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuperpower*
> 
> The tempered glass model has tempered glass over it. Basically, it's stronger but isn't really necessary IMO.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> \_asuperpower_/


And it just looks awsome, mine didn't come with all the writing around the screens bevel, it's all just black and just says Yamakasi in small at the bottom which is the clean black look I prefer.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> Are you in the UK? and does it say that its being held because of invoice missing?
> If so I had this same problem and my catleap was held in customs for 6 working days, I had a lot of contradicting issues between Green-Sum & Parcelforce and after days of ringing up I got told that my invoice was actually there and they just use that status so they can hold your goods while they work through a backlog of goods. So remember Monday & Tuesday of last week where bank holidays so they'll have a big back log too get through.
> Mine got released with no issues and I just had too pay £38 customs fees which was what I was told I would pay, still this monitor was well worth all that.
> Good luck with getting your monitor.
> And it just looks awsome(sic), mine didn't come with all the writing around the screens bevel, it's all just black and just says Yamakasi in small at the bottom which is the clean black look I prefer.


No, I am in the US. DHL had it in South Korea ten days ago, long before the holiday but hopefully, like you say, it is just a backlog issue. I have a call scheduled with the DHL International team today to get more details. Haven't heard back yet from green-sum about what he was able/willing to do from his side, just feels like there is no sense of urgency there. What's concerning is the conflicting stories about what the issue is.

DHL:
Quote:


> Clearance Delay: Clearance will proceed after receiving instructions from the importer. Customer should contact DHL Customer Service if not reached by DHL


----------



## thestache

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Couple things to note here:
> 1. The 2Bs available on eBay are multi input and have noticeable input lag, and therefore are not great for gaming.
> 2. You'll need more than a GTX690 to get 120fps at that resolution, I'm afraid.


Should have said 'a GTX 690 to start with' and of course upgrade later on but if the input lag despite the monitor being overclocked is still going to bother me then thank you. I won't bother then and will continue with my original idea of x3 1080P 75hz monitors with 2ms GTG response time.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

The gpu statement is untrue. 120hz is possible with 670/680s as well as some amds with the proper tuning. You can push these to 100 with many many cards as well.


----------



## Chobbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> The gpu statement is untrue. 120hz is possible with 670/680s as well as some amds with the proper tuning. You can push these to 100 with many many cards as well.


My 580's struggle too stay above 60fps with max settings and high AA settings but can easily keep 120 if things are dropped so it depends on how much certain settings mean too you.


----------



## Herstal

Hello everyone,

Loooooong time lurker, first time poster







.

I've been following the Korean IPS threads nearly since the beginning, and finally decided to get one for myself. I picked the basic Catleap, w/o tempered glass and speakers, perfect pixel version from Greensum. I'm happy to say that it has just arrived and everything seems to be fine - no dead or stuck pixels, no major backlight bleed (but it's somewhat sunny, so hard to say before it gets dark), also seems like it may be free from the sudden death sydrome as it's been working for over an hour now with no issues.

The model i received is rev. 2F, unfortunately not overclockable - only goes up to 64 Hz before shutting down. Stand is as wobbly as expected, but i have a very stable desk, so it's a non-issue for me. PSU is from Welltronics, it gets a bit warm to touch, but not hot at all (so far).

Delivery to Poland took about a week and a half, with 4 days in customs - charged ~90 USD, so more or less as expected.

Most importantly, i'm very happy with the screen quality. I switched from a 4-year old 24" 1200p TN (Samsung T240), which i have always considered "decent" for it's price tag, but when standing side to side, the difference is incredible! I've always used AG-coated monitors (also IPS - several Dell U2410's at work and one U2412 on my father's rig), and now i see why many people think it's better to have a non-coated screen. I was a bit afraid it'd end up like on my Alienware M11x R3, which is completely unusable if there is a slightest hint of light in the room (yeah, i exagerrate a bit), but it's not nearly as glossy as i expected.

All in all - very satisfied with the purchase so far. So, thanks to all the people who bought it before me, posted here and helped me make the correct decision!


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> The gpu statement is untrue. 120hz is possible with 670/680s as well as some amds with the proper tuning. You can push these to 100 with many many cards as well.


We are talking about three of these monitors in surround, not just one. I would think a GTX690 wouldn't be enough to push 120fps on modern games at high/max settings in such a scenario. Could be I'm wrong, but I know that my GTX680 (which is about 60% of the power of a GTX690) has trouble pushing 60fps on modern games at max settings on only 1 of these monitors.

Also, update on my dead Catleap:

green-sum said he should be shipping it back to me (in a working state, of course) sometime this week. He claimed it was the power adapter that was bad, which is odd since my DMM said the voltages were fine. But maybe it had some other problems that weren't as easily detectable by a DMM. Oh well.


----------



## 66racer

So guys the more I read in this thread the more questions or concerns I get. From what I can tell greensum or red cap are the two sellers I want to stick with?

Also I'm concerned about screen coating. There is no way to tell which one I receive? Its just luck?

So the AG coating is that flat appearance that most monitors have and the non-ag is the nice glossy screen?

Thanks.


----------



## corpjones

I've just got my catleap today, impressed with it however got a very weird issue, if I go to a certain webpage with lots of text on a white background my monitor starts buzzing... I saw on the first page it said about glueing something but didnt really want to open the monitor, has anyone does this and is it difficult?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> So guys the more I read in this thread the more questions or concerns I get. From what I can tell greensum or red cap are the two sellers I want to stick with?
> Also I'm concerned about screen coating. There is no way to tell which one I receive? Its just luck?
> So the AG coating is that flat appearance that most monitors have and the non-ag is the nice glossy screen?
> Thanks.


BigClothCraft is another popular seller.

AG coating has a matt finish ( very dull ).

If you buy one, ask the seller to check it and make sure it is not an AG monitor, can't see it being a problem.


----------



## 66racer

Thanks


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> We are talking about three of these monitors in surround, not just one. I would think a GTX690 wouldn't be enough to push 120fps on modern games at high/max settings in such a scenario. Could be I'm wrong, but I know that my GTX680 (which is about 60% of the power of a GTX690) has trouble pushing 60fps on modern games at max settings on only 1 of these monitors.
> Also, update on my dead Catleap:
> green-sum said he should be shipping it back to me (in a working state, of course) sometime this week. He claimed it was the power adapter that was bad, which is odd since my DMM said the voltages were fine. But maybe it had some other problems that weren't as easily detectable by a DMM. Oh well.


Yes, the voltage can check fine numerically but be 'dirty' requiring more advanced diagnostic tools to detect.

*update* I just heard confirmation from DHL that customs has not received any documents from green-sum so I have contacted green-sum to determine to whom they provided the documents they say they submitted. They promised to sort this out today, but the business day is already over in South Korea and I have yet to hear from them.


----------



## futr_vision

Anyone running 3 of these using Eyefinity? If so what card are you using. Apparently all three monitors need to run off a single card.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Yes, the voltage can check fine numerically but be 'dirty' requiring more advanced diagnostic tools to detect.
> *update* I just heard confirmation from DHL that customs has not received any documents from green-sum so I have contacted green-sum to determine to whom they provided the documents they say they submitted. They promised to sort this out today, but the business day is already over in South Korea and I have yet to hear from them.


You must be frustrated. Best luck to you!


----------



## UsedPaperclip

Can anyone comment on how these look while gaming at 1080p?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> You must be frustrated. Best luck to you!


yes, 11 days and counting stuck in customs on a return then I still have to wait for it to be sent to the factory! Thanks for the sympathy!


----------



## unleaded91

Anyone ordered from bigclothcraft lately. I ordered my bro's on Thursday 6/7 and it was shipped on 6/8 but it is already Monday and DHL still doesn't have any updates in tracking


----------



## 66racer

I found a catleap local for $280. At first I was just gonna buy new but after all the customs problems some have I'm thinking its worth it right? Guy claims new and good perfect condition. Anything I should check before taking it home? He said I can test it. If it has ag coating I'm probably still gonna look into it.

Any comments on this I would appriciate.


----------



## Sensai

Another few questions to bother you gents with, if I may.

I'm sitting right now at an iMac (I'm unfamiliar with the exact model, however) that has a glass screen on it. I assume that this is similar to what 'tempered glass' on one of these things would be?

Also, and this is the part that I'm sorry to bother you guys with, is there anyway someone could either explain or show me the difference between AG screens and...non-glossy? Is that the other option? I'm a total moron in this aspect of monitor tech.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I found a catleap local for $280. At first I was just gonna buy new but after all the customs problems some have I'm thinking its worth it right? Guy claims new and good perfect condition. Anything I should check before taking it home? He said I can test it. If it has ag coating I'm probably still gonna look into it.
> Any comments on this I would appriciate.


I would definitely go have a look at it.

You could get it cheaper, able to test/check it and see it running before money changes hands and no worries of DOA monitor or shipping problems.

It might be a 2B









What are you waiting on ?

From the OP

http://tft.vanity.dk/

Test it on your own monitor before you go to see the catleap, it explains what to look for on each test, then stick it on a USB drive and bring it with you.

On full white screen check for dead/stuck pixels, even brightness and clean whites ( yellow tints ).

Full black screen check for dead/stuck pixels and light bleed in darkened room.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I would definitely go have a look at it.
> You could get it cheaper, able to test/check it and see it running before money changes hands and no worries of DOA monitor or shipping problems.
> 
> What are you waiting on ?


He was at $300 and got him to $280 but he wouldn't go lower. Said he got two and only is selling both. I was nervous about warranty but figure once you have a good one that's the most important part rather than worry about it failing a few weeks from now I guess. Was gonna go new for warranty basically.


----------



## thepunisher892

Just set up my SE Tempered Glass/Perfect Pixel Yamakasi, and wow....what a difference it is from a 1080p LED monitor! I thought things were crisp before, boy...was I mistaken!

Ran all the pixel tests and indeed, Perfect Pixel (no dark/bright pixels at all)

I ordered mine from Green-Sum and couldn't be happier, ordered last Thursday and it arrived today (I live near Chicago)

LOVE THIS THING! Now to see if I need to replace my two 560TI's down the road, anyone know a good resolution to game at if my cards can't handle it?


----------



## Kimo

Well this blows... I was doing my homework and I heard something pop(electrical). This monitor worked good for 1 week and now it will not turn on. The led on the power brick is a steady green. Time to message to BCC and let's see how this goes.


----------



## gw280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thepunisher892*
> 
> Just set up my SE Tempered Glass/Perfect Pixel Yamakasi, and wow....what a difference it is from a 1080p LED monitor! I thought things were crisp before, boy...was I mistaken!
> Ran all the pixel tests and indeed, Perfect Pixel (no dark/bright pixels at all)
> I ordered mine from Green-Sum and couldn't be happier, ordered last Thursday and it arrived today (I live near Chicago)
> LOVE THIS THING! Now to see if I need to replace my two 560TI's down the road, anyone know a good resolution to game at if my cards can't handle it?


If you're running two 560 Tis you should probably be able to run at native res 2560x1440. However you only have 1GB RAM I assume, so you probably should keep the AA down to a minimum (or off). I used to run a 570 1.25GB and had no issues at native res but AA would dramatically kill performance.


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UsedPaperclip*
> 
> Can anyone comment on how these look while gaming at 1080p?


Yeah, I did some comparisons earlier. Don't worry about the color, I did not white balance the camera to the screen.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Well this blows... I was doing my homework and I heard something pop(electrical). This monitor worked good for 1 week and now it will not turn on. The led on the power brick is a steady green. Time to message to BCC and let's see how this goes.


That's really unfortunate. Sorry to hear that


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Well this blows... I was doing my homework and I heard something pop(electrical). This monitor worked good for 1 week and now it will not turn on. The led on the power brick is a steady green. Time to message to BCC and let's see how this goes.


Dam this is what has me worried about buying this monitor from a private party in the usa. As big as a pain I bet it is to deal woth overseas warranty, at least there is someone to go to. Maybe I will ask the guy for a 14day warranty

edit:
btw hope its just the power converter. I would expect that to go before a monitor component since its LG stuff....If not mistaken isnt everything inside LG?


----------



## cresend

After a week of waiting, got my catleap in today from BCC. But i think god hates me, cause it came with a LOADUS power supply









Edit:
The LOADUS are capable of running on 110v even though labeled 190-220v. They now put a sticker on the power brick notifying so.








No light bleed, couple dead/stuck pixels but impossible to see without literally sticking ones own nose to it. Great buy


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Dam this is what has me worried about buying this monitor from a private party in the usa. As big as a pain I bet it is to deal woth overseas warranty, at least there is someone to go to. Maybe I will ask the guy for a 14day warranty
> edit:
> btw hope its just the power converter. I would expect that to go before a monitor component since its LG stuff....If not mistaken isnt everything inside LG?


I hope it's the power brick.

I wonder where I can find a replacement to try it out.


----------



## Feladis

Will I be able to use this monitor with the HD4000 iGPU that's on the i5 3570k? I'm able to run Starcraft 2 on a ~24" LCD TV @ 1650x1050 reso playing at high graphics.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feladis*
> 
> Will I be able to use this monitor with the HD4000 iGPU that's on the i5 3570k? I'm able to run Starcraft 2 on a ~24" LCD TV @ 1650x1050 reso playing at high graphics.


MAYBE blueray movie watching but if you tried gaming at 1440 with the igpu Im not sure if low would even play above 30fps. Im just guessing but 2560x1440 is a large jump over what you currently play at.


----------



## Feladis

I just want to know if my computer will work I guess lol I'm planning on getting a nice video card down the line.

*Rig:*

i5 3570k
asus p8z77v-pro
crucial m4 128 gb ssd
etc.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feladis*
> 
> I just want to know if my computer will work I guess lol I'm planning on getting a nice video card down the line.
> *Rig:*
> i5 3570k
> asus p8z77v-pro
> crucial m4 128 gb ssd
> etc.


As long as your video card had a Dual Link DVI port, you're good.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feladis*
> 
> I just want to know if my computer will work I guess lol I'm planning on getting a nice video card down the line.
> *Rig:*
> i5 3570k
> asus p8z77v-pro
> crucial m4 128 gb ssd
> etc.


I have read some sellers so onboard wont work but I think the dvi output on the mobo had a dual link output, I just cant answer your question responsibly, but looks like it might. SOmeone needs to chime in with more knowledge on the igpu


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Dam this is what has me worried about buying this monitor from a private party in the usa. As big as a pain I bet it is to deal woth overseas warranty, at least there is someone to go to. Maybe I will ask the guy for a 14day warranty
> edit:
> btw hope its just the power converter. I would expect that to go before a monitor component since its LG stuff....If not mistaken isnt everything inside LG?


No everything inside is not LG. Only the LCD panel itself is. Everything else (Including the circuit board and components) is Yamakasi or whatever.


----------



## olliiee

Hey guys I just saw a link to one of these monitors on a fourm and started looking into them. How do they compare to say an Dell or Apple equivalent and can I run them in Australia on 240V?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> No everything inside is not LG. Only the LCD panel itself is. Everything else (Including the circuit board and components) is Yamakasi or whatever.


ah ok, I thought I saw teardown pictures that had LG printed on boards, but maybe that was actually part of the panel itself.


----------



## mva5580

Well I just got mine today and so far, it's amazing. Screen looks perfect, I don't even have a problem with the stand as it seems plenty fine on my desk. Nowhere near as bad as I was expecting. I've tested BF3, Skyrim, Dirt 3. NBA2K12, The Witcher 2, Diablo 3 and more, and they all run great.

I just can't help but think though that I'm on "borrowed time" when it comes to this monitor....I guess I'm just not expecting it to last. I don't have much confidence in the innards of it at all. If I get 2 years out of it, I'll be ecstatic. But for now, it's fantastic.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> ah ok, I thought I saw teardown pictures that had LG printed on boards, but maybe that was actually part of the panel itself.


 You have, because I have seen them as well.

Maybe not all have LG chips and PCBs, but I am almost sure the 2B had.

LG chip/PCB on a 2B


----------



## braveblade

I remember someone said 2b model can produce a better calibration result than the other models. Is this still the case right now?


----------



## Feladis

Please help!









Here are my motherboard and rig specs. I want to know if the Catleap monitor will work with my hardware.

*My motherboard specs*

Multi-VGA output support : HDMI/DVI/RGB/DisplayPort ports
- Supports HDMI with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz
- Supports DVI with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz
- Supports RGB with max. resolution 2048 x 1536 @ 75 Hz
- Supports DisplayPort with max. resolution 2560 x 1600 @ 60 Hz
Supports Intel® HD Graphics, InTru™ 3D, Quick Sync Video, Clear Video HD Technology, Insider™

*My Rig:*

i5 3570k with HD 4000 iGPU
asus p8z77v-pro
crucial m4 128 gb ssd
etc.

I checked my motherboard port and it clearly shows a DVI-D (Dual Link) port. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#Dual-link_DVI)


----------



## sschicken

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feladis*
> 
> - Supports DVI with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz
> 
> I checked my motherboard port and it clearly shows a DVI-D (Dual Link) port. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#Dual-link_DVI)


All female DVI connectors typically look the same, you can't tell if it's -I or -D by looking at it. By the specs you posted it implies that it's not DVI-D since its max res is 1920x1200. Looks like you could probably get an active displayport adapter that should run it according to those specs, but I wouldn't guarantee it myself. It'd be better (and no more expensive) to buy an AMD 6670 or similar and run it off that.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feladis*
> 
> Please help!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my motherboard and rig specs. I want to know if the Catleap monitor will work with my hardware.
> *My motherboard specs*
> Multi-VGA output support : HDMI/DVI/RGB/DisplayPort ports
> - Supports HDMI with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz
> - Supports DVI with max. resolution 1920 x 1200 @ 60 Hz
> - Supports RGB with max. resolution 2048 x 1536 @ 75 Hz
> - Supports DisplayPort with max. resolution 2560 x 1600 @ 60 Hz
> Supports Intel® HD Graphics, InTru™ 3D, Quick Sync Video, Clear Video HD Technology, Insider™
> *My Rig:*
> i5 3570k with HD 4000 iGPU
> asus p8z77v-pro
> crucial m4 128 gb ssd
> etc.
> *I checked my motherboard port and it clearly shows a DVI-D (Dual Link) port. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Digital_Visual_Interface#Dual-link_DVI)*


That is for the cables.

Your DVI clearly does not support 2560x1440

You might be able to use the DP and an active DP to DL-DVI adapter m but they cost a bit.

DL-DVI symbol (dual link)



SL-DVI symbol (single link)


----------



## Feladis

So I'm kinda disappointed that I already bought this. I was planning on buying a video card eventually though. Would a good one give me the dual dvi port I need?

Also, maybe this would work with my current setup? http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DP2DVIS-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter/dp/B004SUO1GM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1339486182&sr=8-1


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feladis*
> 
> So I'm kinda disappointed that I already bought this. I was planning on buying a video card eventually though. Would a good one give me the dual dvi port I need?


I'm sure there is cheap graphic cards the will have DL-DVI and support up to 2560 x 1600, I just can't recommend any

No that adapter will not work

Supports resolutions up to 1920x1200

Here

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-UltraAV-B087B-002B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=pd_cp_e_1

and you still might run into problems

You would be better of with a discrete graphic card


----------



## Feladis

Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to try to cancel the order by contacting the seller before it ships (hope Green Sum will allow me to do this- it says I can return within 14 days anyway) and just get a different monitor. Once I have money I might buy a nicer monitor to go with a nice video card.


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feladis*
> 
> Thanks for the advice. I think I'm going to try to cancel the order by contacting the seller before it ships (hope Green Sum will allow me to do this- it says I can return within 14 days anyway) and just get a different monitor. Once I have money I might buy a nicer monitor to go with a nice video card.


You can get a cheap graphics card for like £20 that has dual link dvi and is completely silent (no fans). Totally worth it imho.


----------



## Dirtyworks

What does "Awaiting collection by recipient as requested" on the DHL tracking page mean? Is it being forwarded to me through Canada Post?
Its at a facility in Ottawa and.. I'm in freaking Nunavut. I _cannot_ simply go and pick it up.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> What does "Awaiting collection by recipient as requested" on the DHL tracking page mean? Is it being forwarded to me through Canada Post?
> Its at a facility in Ottawa and.. I'm in freaking Nunavut. I _cannot_ simply go and pick it up.


Unless you requested (or the shipper) a 'hold for pickup' this is probably a mistake, call DHL with the tracking number. The international team I have been dealing with has been really great, very responsive.

If only I could get green-sum to respond, second day with no reply!


----------



## NateZ28

So if you are watching a movie or playing a game in 1080p, would you use the Nvidia control panel to upscale the image to fit the whole screen?
Or would you use VLC player or the game settings to fill the whole screen?


----------



## erocker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> So if you are watching a movie or playing a game in 1080p, would you use the Nvidia control panel to upscale the image to fit the whole screen?
> Or would you use VLC player or the game settings to fill the whole screen?


It does it automatically.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *erocker*
> 
> It does it automatically.


I've read several times that you do not want to use a non-native resolution or it looks bad.
But then again I don't own one of these screens, yet.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> I've read several times that you do not want to use a non-native resolution or it looks bad.
> But then again I don't own one of these screens, yet.


What you are asking is like playing a 720p film on a 1080p screen ...there is nothing special you have to do, just play it and make it full screen and it is the same with games.

Windows will set the resolution to 2560x1440, games you have to set your self ( well I had to with BF3).

When I first started BF3 after connecting the monitor for the first time it was running at 1920 x 1080, looked ok, then set BF3 to 2560 x 1440 and looked very sharp. I believe there is only certain resolutions the monitor can do with out the hardware scaler.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> I've read several times that you do not want to use a non-native resolution or it looks bad.
> But then again I don't own one of these screens, yet.


Have you ever watched DVD or even TV quality video, in full screen, on your 1920x1080 display? You, apparently, unknowingly scaled your video. If you ever full screened a standard quality (240/360) youtube video on a modern display (pfft even an antiquated one from 1995), you're upscaling.

What everyone means about not using the native resolution of the display is in Windows and games itself. Of course a movie would look better with a native resolution of 2560x1440 on these displays, but unfortunately there are none. All you'll get is the same effect as youtube videos, but with 1080p video.


----------



## DontLikeYou

Add me to the club guys! I am a total believer. My Catleap just arrived from BigClothCraft and it is beautiful. Absolutely no dead pixels and no noticeable bleeding. I love it!


----------



## Takn

Hey Guys,

I would have to say a huge thank you to Scribbly for getting this thread together and providing so much quality info.
There was only ~200 pages when I first started my research into this.

I have a 2C model for a couple of months now I have to say what a great monitor for the price!

But.....I now have the monitor deciding to turn its brightness down to lowest all by itself. The light flashes as if the button is being pressed so I dare say I will have to pull it apart for furthur inspection.

Just curious if anyone else has had this happen as of yet?

oh, and I got mine from Greensum and it only took 3 days to hit Australia and my doorstep. Very Impressed.


----------



## jmarsiglio

I like mine so far... Except it turns off then restarts sometimes when I view a video fullscreen, know why?

update: I connected a new power cable and it doesn't shut off. My gut-feeling tells me that the power brick is somehow killing the cable... I guess we will see!


----------



## jam3s

Pretty sure mine is in customs, and should be here thursday.

Never owned a 1440p monitor before, wish me luck


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Pretty sure mine is in customs, and should be here thursday.
> Never owned a 1440p monitor before, wish me luck


Here's hoping you won't need luck

*update:* Finally heard from green-sum, but same song, second verse. "We provided the documents, we're on it..." but did not answer my question, Who did you give them to? DHL needs a name or they have to take customs at its word that they have nothing from green-sum. Sounds like they are stalling to me, perhaps too many DOA and bad units are stacking up and they can't afford to handle them all now. Thirteen days stuck in customs and counting!


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Here's hoping you won't need luck
> *update:* Finally heard from green-sum, but same song, second verse. "We provided the documents, we're on it..." but did not answer my question, Who did you give them to? DHL needs a name or they have to take customs at its word that they have nothing from green-sum. Sounds like they are stalling to me, perhaps too many DOA and bad units are stacking up and they can't afford to handle them all now. Thirteen days stuck in customs and counting!


Customs is pretty strict now-a-days... sometimes they do random custom checks of individual packages and I think your package may have been picked up for inspection,


----------



## Teraunus

Hello, I've been watching this thread so far, and decided to purchase a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 (SE was sold out according to BCC) and got it in 5 business days, but DHL decided to puncture the panel side of my package and damage the screen.









The affected area has dead pixels (blaring white) and now I get to go through a return process.. yay!

But wow, what I did see when I tested it was purely amazing. I'm temporarily using a 19" 1440x900 until I get another and it hurts now having seen a glimpse of 1440 glory and being stuck with sub 1080 res for another week, but BCC seems to be working on fixing the problem.

Just wanted to share my experience so far and will post an update with an edit when I am fully set up









BTW, to the OP, excellent tutorials and info for this model, tis what got me to take the plunge and do a first time overseas electronic order.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Customs is pretty strict now-a-days... sometimes they do random custom checks of individual packages and I think your package may have been picked up for inspection,


I would not have a problem with that, customs says the whole delay is waiting on green-sum to provide the documents, that unnecessary delay stretching out over almost two weeks now, that, I have a problem with!


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Here's hoping you won't need luck
> *update:* Finally heard from green-sum, but same song, second verse. "We provided the documents, we're on it..." but did not answer my question, Who did you give them to? DHL needs a name or they have to take customs at its word that they have nothing from green-sum. Sounds like they are stalling to me, perhaps too many DOA and bad units are stacking up and they can't afford to handle them all now. Thirteen days stuck in customs and counting!


hey i just have a question. my monitor is DOA as well and had smoke as soon as i connected power. i had filed a dispute on paypal and i only have til 25 june to escalate it to paypal. if it gets stuck with DHL during return, and passes 25 june, will paypal no longer care? so then if green sum decides to ignore me i will be screwed right?

really wish i never bought this monitor so much trouble shoulda just bite the bullet and went with dell instead. i just want to get a refund now.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> hey i just have a question. my monitor is DOA as well and had smoke as soon as i connected power. i had filed a dispute on paypal and i only have til 25 june to escalate it to paypal. if it gets stuck with DHL during return, and passes 25 june, will paypal no longer care? so then if green sum decides to ignore me i will be screwed right?
> really wish i never bought this monitor so much trouble shoulda just bite the bullet and went with dell instead. i just want to get a refund now.


Since you've already filed a dispute, you're covered. I have heard back from green-sum just a few minutes ago and they assured me that if my monitor does not clear customs this week they will just go ahead and refund me anyway. You will need to provide eBay and PayPal with documentation of everything, so be sure to keep all communications, waybills, etc. Be certain they don't close the dispute until everything is completely resolved to your satisfaction.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Since you've already filed a dispute, you're covered. I have heard back from green-sum just a few minutes ago and they assured me that if my monitor does not clear customs this week they will just go ahead and refund me anyway. You will need to provide eBay and PayPal with documentation of everything, so be sure to keep all communications, waybills, etc. Be certain they don't close the dispute until everything is completely resolved to your satisfaction.


alright thanks for letting me know







. if only the dell didnt have the horrible AG i would of went with them no questions asked.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> hey i just have a question. my monitor is DOA as well and had smoke as soon as i connected power. i had filed a dispute on paypal and i only have til 25 june to escalate it to paypal. if it gets stuck with DHL during return, and passes 25 june, will paypal no longer care? so then if green sum decides to ignore me i will be screwed right?
> really wish i never bought this monitor so much trouble shoulda just bite the bullet and went with dell instead. i just want to get a refund now.


Good luck trying to get money back from those sellers. Paypal dispute will make you pay $100s to ship it back.


----------



## Kimo

Can anyone tell me if your monitor has a LED light on while it is not connected through DVI-D? I'm guessing it's suppose to be red right even if it's not connected to a monitor.


----------



## mott555

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if your monitor has a LED light on while it is not connected through DVI-D? I'm guessing it's suppose to be red right even if it's not connected to a monitor.


Mine always has a red light on if the monitor has wall power but is turned off.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mott555*
> 
> Mine always has a red light on if the monitor has wall power but is turned off.


thank you. My monitor is dead. Just doing what BCC is telling me what to do. He's going to replace it, but I wonder who's going to pay return shipping. According to his ebay return policy, if the monitor has a manufacturer defect, the seller pays shipping.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> thank you. My monitor is dead. Just doing what BCC is telling me what to do. He's going to replace it, but I wonder who's going to pay return shipping. According to his ebay return policy, if the monitor has a manufacturer defect, the seller pays shipping.


Pretty sure BCC, like green-sum covers shipping back to them on DOA monitors. Green-sum issued a call ticket, I just had to re-box and call DHL to arrange the pick-up, then fill out a waybill when the driver came to pick it up.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Pretty sure BCC, like green-sum covers shipping back to them on DOA monitors. Green-sum issued a call ticket, I just had to re-box and call DHL to arrange the pick-up, then fill out a waybill when the driver came to pick it up.


how did u get him to do that? i posted a message asking him to send a DHL guy to pickup the monitor but he hasn't responded yet. the nearest DHL is very far away so a pickup would really help.


----------



## londonfire93

i ordered mine Sunday night from BCC i had him check for any damage dead pixels and light bleed and today it is with the delivery courier. i hope it works well the first time


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> how did u get him to do that? i posted a message asking him to send a DHL guy to pickup the monitor but he hasn't responded yet. the nearest DHL is very far away so a pickup would really help.


He didn't do that part, just provided the account number and the shipping address. I contacted DHL through liveChat on the DHL site and requested a pickup with that information, a driver was here later that afternoon to pick it up. Make sure you have everything (including the dimensions and weight of the box, which should still be on the waybill on the box) before you contact them.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> He didn't do that part, just provided the account number and the shipping address. I contacted DHL through liveChat on the DHL site and requested a pickup with that information, a driver was here later that afternoon to pick it up. Make sure you have everything (including the dimensions and weight of the box, which should still be on the waybill on the box) before you contact them.


Can you just go to a DHL location? I do not have a scale to begin with. I sure hope everything goes well. Waiting for BCC to let me know what the next step is. I'll keep you guys updated on the situation.

Also. Anyone know where i can get bubble wrap? I'm guessing staples.


----------



## ?Dirty?

hello , i recently discovered this thread , so instead of reading 480+ pages maybe someone can help me.

im looking at one for 309$ via Eb*y, how much is shipping usually?

that price seems like a steal , i live in USA(TN) but not if shiping is 50-100+$

can some one speculate on the cost?

derp says free shipping lol


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Can you just go to a DHL location? I do not have a scale to begin with. I sure hope everything goes well. Waiting for BCC to let me know what the next step is. I'll keep you guys updated on the situation.
> Also. Anyone know where i can get bubble wrap? I'm guessing staples.


Absolutely, if there's one nearby. Staples should have bubble wrap, but why are you wrapping a return? Did BCC ask you to? It is going back to the factory to be repaired anyway!


----------



## Futzy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *?Dirty?*
> 
> hello , i recently discovered this thread , so instead of reading 480+ pages maybe someone can help me.
> im looking at one for 309$ via Eb*y, how much is shipping usually?
> that price seems like a steal , i live in USA(TN) but not if shiping is 50-100+$
> can some one speculate on the cost?


Shipping is included in the base price.


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Absolutely, if there's one nearby. Staples should have bubble wrap, but why are you wrapping a return? Did BCC ask you to? It is going back to the factory to be repaired anyway!


You have a point lol.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> He didn't do that part, just provided the account number and the shipping address. I contacted DHL through liveChat on the DHL site and requested a pickup with that information, a driver was here later that afternoon to pick it up. Make sure you have everything (including the dimensions and weight of the box, which should still be on the waybill on the box) before you contact them.


where is the live chat option? im in australia and DHL's website looks like this

http://www.dhl.com.au/en.html

the only thing that comes close is book a pickup online, but that requires a DHL account with email address and password. i used the contact DHL express option but haven't got a reply yet.


----------



## futr_vision

I got my 3 regular Catleap SE's today. I ordered them from bigclothcraft last Thursday. I was actually surprised I received them today because Iwas told monday that it would take 1-3 days to test them out. Add another 2 days for shipping and I figured Friday would be the earliest I would see them. I guess I was wrong.

Now, as I said these were 3 regular SE Catleaps. Not the pixel perfect. No AG coating. No tempered glass. No speakers. Each monitor fired up and worked perfectly. Not a dead pixel in the bunch. At least not one I could see. Backlight bleed is there and it changes intensity with the viewing angle but I don't think it is horrible by any stretch. in fact it is really hard to see unless you are starting a black screen. No complaints here especially since I hear that some backlight bleed is normal.

Stands are wobbly but should do fine with a sturdy desk. I was actually surprised to see that my 24" monitor mounted to this stand wobbled more than the Catleap when I shook my desk.
http://www.tykesupply.com/Products_Super_Dual_Monitor_Stand.html
This stand is pretty nice for the price. Very sturdy. It says it will support up to 26" monitors with room to spare but I am pretty sure that the Catleap will fit on there fine. I let you know when I get that far. If you have some patience these stands even go on sale form time to time,

Speaking of price I mentioned in an earlier post to ask the sellers for a deal if you are buying multiple monitors. There is a reason the have the "Make Offer" button on their auctions. I asked bcc for a deal if I bought 3. I got all 3 for $890(~$297 each) shipped to the US. Can't beat that!

Now I just need a manufacturer to start making those DisplayPort 1.2 MST Hubs that have been promised for over a year now. Then Eyefinity will be nothing more than a Displayport cable, the hub and three(or more) dual link DVI cables.


----------



## londonfire93

i got mine today works perfectly no dead pixels or back light bleed. my only complaint is the stand doesn't seem to sturdy. but other than that very impressed.


----------



## edo101

bigclothcraft; is the pixel perfect claim a guarantee?
Are the pixel perfect ones actually pixel perfect? I don't want to pay for something that is not guaranteed


----------



## Kimo

So BCC is replacing my monitor. He gave me his account number so he can pay for shipping.

hopefully this next one has no dead pixels. My first one did not.


----------



## edo101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> So BCC is replacing my monitor. He gave me his account number so he can pay for shipping.
> hopefully this next one has no dead pixels. My first one did not.


what happened to your monitor and was it a CatLeap?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Hello OCN ive been lurking forever (TY to whoever has put together guides to help me overclock everyone of my cpus in the past







) and I tho I would make a account because I had four questions.
1) Has anyone ever tried one of these displays with a hackintosh? I have a 5770 HD Radeon which I have seen confirmed working in this thread and I was just wondering what kinda luck people on here have had using it with hackintosh. Also the max Hertz I can run atm is 75 so would that be my limitation? I can ask tonymacs forum more about this just wondering if anyone in this thread has done this.
2) Next







I have a Asus laptop that I run to a 19 inch 900p dell monitor atm and it has a DVI-I Female to HDMI Male Plug Converter Adapter because the laptop has a HDMI port on the side of it and I was wondering if I could just plug one of these monitors into that adapter and what kinda luck people have had with these monitors and a NVIDIA GeForce GT 630M (btw the laptop is a ASUS R500VM-MS71)
3) I have a 32 inch lcd led tv I bought from walmart for like 250 bucks and it has 1080p so I wanted to use it as a middle monitor with these two Yamakasi Catleap Monitors on the sides and I was wondering if the dpi difference will look really off (btw the reason i wanna use a 32 inch monitor is because i will use my ps3, xbox and wii on it alot and i needed a speaker other then my surrond sound in case someone is watching a movie)
4) Would you guys recommend I pay the $50 per monitor for a 3 year warranty from sqauretrade and is bigclothcraft good and how are there white versions of these displays?
Thanks everyone again really helpful forum


----------



## JayXMonsta

Also how are these speakers? Like the ones in the white Yamakasi Catleap Q270 from bigclothcraft.


----------



## 1rkrage

got a message from BigClothCraft regarding my order
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BigClothCraft*
> For smoothing pass against custom,
> 
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> 
> 3) May I ask your model number of video card in computer?
> -This monitor don't works with Mobile video card in Laptop and macbook.
> 
> 4) May I check your phone number and address for express shipping service?
> (Our company only use personal information for shipping)


what do you guys put in for the first 2 questions? (I'm in Wisconsin)


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> got a message from BigClothCraft regarding my order
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *BigClothCraft*
> For smoothing pass against custom,
> 1) May I mark item as gift?
> 2) How much price I put on invoice?
> 3) May I ask your model number of video card in computer?
> -This monitor don't works with Mobile video card in Laptop and macbook.
> 4) May I check your phone number and address for express shipping service?
> (Our company only use personal information for shipping)
> 
> 
> 
> what do you guys put in for the first 2 questions? (I'm in Wisconsin)
Click to expand...

I have heard so many times in this thread that there is free trade between US and South Korea, so I don't think it really matters if you are in the US.

Have a look at this.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3540_30#post_17125949

http://www.ustr.gov/trade-agreements/free-trade-agreements/korus-fta


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Also how are these speakers? Like the ones in the white Yamakasi Catleap Q270 from bigclothcraft.


The speakers, like those in most monitors, are not worth having IMHO. They have to be far too small and awkwardly positioned to be effective or offer full range sound reproduction. You are much better off with external speakers or a sound bar if you want to preserve the aesthetics of the monitors 'visual plane.'

*update:* my return to green-sum finally moved out of clearance to sorting today (yesterday in Korea)
What's 13 days in clearance between friends


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I have heard so many times in this thread that there is free trade between US and South Korea, so I don't think it really matters if you are in the US.
> 
> Have a look at this.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/3540_30#post_17125949
> 
> http://www.ustr.gov/trade-agreements/free-trade-agreements/korus-fta


ah ok. thanks. told him to mark it as gift and $80


----------



## jam3s

Ahhhhhhhhhh cat leap out for delivery!


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edo101*
> 
> what happened to your monitor and was it a CatLeap?


Yes it was a catleap. I was doing to homework and all of a sudden i heard an electrical pop on the back of the monitor. Monitor shut off and it did not turn on after that.


----------



## londonfire93

i told him to put $300


----------



## rollOver

Now that my return is dislodged from Korean Customs, who has experience with a factory repair? How long has it taken to turn these around once they get them at the factory?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kimo*
> 
> Yes it was a catleap. I was doing to homework and all of a sudden i heard an electrical pop on the back of the monitor. Monitor shut off and it did not turn on after that.


That is what im affarid of with these monitors







I may throw done 600 bucks for two and then within a year they both break.. Also no one has used these with laptops? or hackintosh?


----------



## braveblade

i will receive my q270 multi tonight. I remember I saw a gentleman compiled a list of color profiles. Could someone link me to the list? And can the color profile for q270 non-multi used on multi version?


----------



## 1rkrage

...


----------



## Wiz33

If you are in the U.S. and will be using one of the eBay sellers. You can get the eBay Square Trade 3 years warranty for $50. I did that with my Q270.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> If you are in the U.S. and will be using one of the eBay sellers. You can get the eBay Square Trade 3 years warranty for $50. I did that with my Q270.


I would confirm with squartrade they will cover it. Read a review about squartrade that someone who bought a phone that was an international device that squartrade didn't warranty it since it wasn't designed for use in the us market and they refunded his $50. Basically these monitors fall into that description. So either confirm they will cover you or ask for your money back


----------



## JKDC

FYI my Shimian was declared for $190 when it was shipped to me. That sounds about right. I imagine it does cost $100+ for international FedEx.


----------



## jam3s

Just got my Q270SE.

I got the "D" version

Can anyone tell me what the overclocking procedure is?


----------



## JKDC

Nvidia Control Panel-->Change Resolution-->Customize-->Create Custom Resolution. Up the hz 1-2 notches at a time and hit Test. If the screen doesn't come on in 2-3 seconds hit escape and go down a notch. Find the highest you can go. Leave all the other settings as they are.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKDC*
> 
> Nvidia Control Panel-->Change Resolution-->Customize-->Create Custom Resolution. Up the hz 1-2 notches at a time and hit Test. If the screen doesn't come on in 2-3 seconds hit escape and go down a notch. Find the highest you can go. Leave all the other settings as they are.


Thanks.

I went right for 75Hz, no go lol.

I'll keep trying









First impressions of the Q270?

Screen is gorgeous, 1440p is incredible, I have very little bleeding (that i notice). No dead pixels, stand (as others have said it) is very wobbly -- but I have a sturdy desk. My only problem was that the factory brightness was very low, and doesn't seem to increase much on the monitor control panel.

I went into NV Control panel and adjusted the brightness only, left everything else at default. Seems to be better now.

The screen I got has no AG coating, and if I have my blinds open I can actually see my own reflection while playing COD, LOL.

Great monitor though. Time for SLI


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Thanks.
> I went right for 75Hz, no go lol.
> I'll keep trying


Unless you have a 2B, you'll only get to 67hz or 65hz depending on your particular monitor.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Unless you have a 2B, you'll only get to 67hz or 65hz depending on your particular monitor.


You're right. 67Hz was my max lol


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> You're right. 67Hz was my max lol










I couldn't tell the difference on mine, but if the PCBs work out allowing for 120hz overclocks it'll definitely be worth it


----------



## jam3s

Now I want a 1600p monitor! 1440p is amazing!


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Now I want a 1600p monitor! 1440p is amazing!


I dunno if I would want a 1600, well I havent seen even a 1920x1200 in person but I enjoy the widescreen aspect ratio and imahine 1600 (and 1200) loose some of that. In pictures I get that feeling too. BUT the higher the res the better I guess. I wish I could see these in stores, Everywhere I go just has crappy monitors on display. Might try microcenter but thats why I have never been a monitor guru, I havent whitnessed the glory ever of high resolution lol

I have always been amazed at the apple ones but never noticed what they where till this forum actually.


----------



## braveblade

Received my q270 multi perfect pixel from green-sum today.
Unhappy at all!!!








He promised to check screen before ship, but since the box is sealed, he did not.
There is a crack on the screen even it suppose to be perfect pixel, and has horrible backlight bleeding. I will contact green-sum for sure.

edit: not crack, but a pile of dead pixels...


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Received my q270 multi perfect pixel from green-sum today.
> Unhappy at all!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He promised to check screen before ship, but since the box is sealed, he did not.
> There is a crack on the screen even it suppose to be perfect pixel, and has horrible backlight bleeding. I will contact green-sum for sure.


Was the box damaged?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Was the box damaged?


no. do you think green-sum will offer me a replacement? I'm losing hope now.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> no. do you think green-sum will offer me a replacement? I'm losing hope now.


I bet he will. Might be a bit of a hassle though and timely.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> no. do you think green-sum will offer me a replacement? I'm losing hope now.


I think he will take care of you, will be a hassle though if my experience is anything to go by.


----------



## braveblade

I just don't like the fact that he promised me to check monitor before shipping but he didn't.


----------



## JMCB

So if I got one of these and I wanted to run not-quite 3-way eyefinity, what size panels would pair well with it if I wanted to run two 1440x900 panels on the sides in vertical landscape and the Yamakasi in the middle?


----------



## jmarsiglio

Hate to do this, but does anyone know what could be causing my monitor to reboot during video-viewing sessions? My screen literally turns off, audio stops then restarts and my screen goes back on but the video becomes minimized.

Change DVI cable or RMA?

Thanks!

This only happens when I watch full screen videos!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JMCB*
> 
> So if I got one of these and I wanted to run not-quite 3-way eyefinity, what size panels would pair well with it if I wanted to run two 1440x900 panels on the sides in vertical landscape and the Yamakasi in the middle?


I think you're talking about a PLP setup? (Portrait-Landscape-Portrait) I was thinking of doing that with a Catleap in the middle, and I found that 19-20" will have the same width as the Catleap has height IIRC. Not counting the stands of course.


----------



## Bigbrag

I'm going to run PLP setup but with all catleaps. I'm running eyefinity with them now and it is great, but it is so wide that I can't really even see the side screens. I think I will just run games on the center monitor and PLP so that it takes up less desk space. I just need to place an order for my Monoprice stands.


----------



## mva5580

So I've been running my Catleap for a little while now and so far, so good.

However something that seems to be effecting me a little weird is that I seem to be suffering a little eye strain while using this screen. I use my PC on 2 screens: This one and a 52" 1080p LCD HDTV. When I play on the PC in the living room, I don't suffer from this. But when I switch to this screen in the bedroom at the 2560x1440, it seems to have a bit of an effect on my eyes. I'm really not sure what it could be....maybe I need to mess with the settings or something. I don't really think I have it that bright, but I don't know.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Gah, it seems that the catleap restarts itself if I don't touch my screen for a minute or two, almost as if it's being woken from sleep, but it's not even on sleep!

Yep, every time I leave for over a minute it does this.

These monitors honestly seem to be more trouble than they are worth...


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Received my q270 multi perfect pixel from green-sum today.
> Unhappy at all!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> He promised to check screen before ship, but since the box is sealed, he did not.
> There is a crack on the screen even it suppose to be perfect pixel, and has horrible backlight bleeding. I will contact green-sum for sure.
> edit: not crack, but a pile of dead pixels...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Doesn't look good









Where on the screen is that group of dead pixels and did you pay extra for a perfect pixel monitor, or did he just say he would check it for free ?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Gah, it seems that the catleap restarts itself if I don't touch my screen for a minute or two, almost as if it's being woken from sleep, but it's not even on sleep!
> Yep, every time I leave for over a minute it does this.
> These monitors honestly seem to be more trouble than they are worth...


You do know these are not touchscreen monitors, correct?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Doesn't look good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Where on the screen is that group of dead pixels and did you pay extra for a perfect pixel monitor, or did he just say he would check it for free ?


It's shown in the first pictures. They can be dead pixels, or a scratch inside the monitor, hard to tell. And yes, I paid extra for the perfect pixel.
Now I'm still waiting for reply from green-sum...


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> It's shown in the first pictures. They can be dead pixels, or a scratch inside the monitor, hard to tell. And yes, I paid extra for the perfect pixel.
> Now I'm still waiting for reply from green-sum...


WOW Not good at all, paying the extra for him to check for perfect pixel and he didn't even open the box.

I hope he pulls out all the stops to resolve this quickly and you must be so disappointed .


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> WOW Not good at all, paying the extra for him to check for perfect pixel and he didn't even open the box.
> I hope he pulls out all the stops to resolve this quickly and you must be so disappointed .


Yeah I am. I spent $460 CAD + $20 CAD import tax on it. I'm a student and it's all my saving for the past several months. I am sad.
Thank you for the kind words!


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> You do know these are not touchscreen monitors, correct?


How stupid do you think I am LOL. I mean, if I don't perform any actions such as moving mouse or typing. in other words if I just watch my screen for a minute, then when I move my mouse the screen reboots. Grrr


----------



## gw280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> WOW Not good at all, paying the extra for him to check for perfect pixel and he didn't even open the box.
> I hope he pulls out all the stops to resolve this quickly and you must be so disappointed .


For what it's worth, "pixel perfect" is a factory option, not the sellers checking them for you.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> For what it's worth, "pixel perfect" is a factory option, not the sellers checking them for you.


That is what I wasn't sure of, my box came with a sticker on it, wasn't sure if it was the seller or the factory put it there.


----------



## sleiyer2671

Hi guys,

First time poster here. Just got my catleap about a week ago from bigclothcraft and it's been fantastic! I ordered the q270se no class with no pixel checking and it came thru fine. No dead pixels. There are some backlight bleed on the lower right and upper right but they're only noticeable when it's a full black screen. Watching movies seems fine. The stand is wobbly as hell so last night i decided to go thru the stand removal and mount it to something else.

My question to others who've done the same, what size of screws (diameter wise) did you guys use? I saw the post about not having screws longer than 1/2 inch cuz of the shorting issue. But i can't seem to find the right size screw to make the mount sit flush. Did you guys have screws that came with monitor? Reuse the ones that you took out for the stand?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> For what it's worth, "pixel perfect" is a factory option, not the sellers checking them for you.


Witech does not do this check - it is up to the reseller to check for pixel perfect.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joarce*
> 
> Hello, first post!
> 
> Can anyone confirm this monitor will work with a late 2008 Macbook Pro? Max resolution quoted for external monitors is 2560 x 1600. Video card is 9600M GT 256MB. Don't want to overclock (blasphemous, I know), just use it as an external display in clamshell mode using a Display Port to DVI-D cable.
> 
> Thanks to any and all who can help!
> 
> joi


You need the Mini-DP to HDMI adapter. Or to DVI

.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Now I want a 1600p monitor! 1440p is amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> I dunno if I would want a 1600, well I havent seen even a 1920x1200 in person but I enjoy the widescreen aspect ratio and imahine 1600 (and 1200) loose some of that. In pictures I get that feeling too. BUT the higher the res the better I guess. I wish I could see these in stores, Everywhere I go just has crappy monitors on display. Might try microcenter but thats why I have never been a monitor guru, I havent whitnessed the glory ever of high resolution lol
> 
> I have always been amazed at the apple ones but never noticed what they where till this forum actually.
Click to expand...

Apple one been flawless to me. No dead pixel, gradient brightness or etc.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Can anyone help me troubleshoot why my monitor seems to restart when I leave my computer alone for over a minute? Does it go into some kind of standby?


----------



## bf2badass

1week now love it:thumb:


----------



## bf2badass




----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf2badass*


no bleeding or dead pixel? If so, you are a lucky man!


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Can anyone help me troubleshoot why my monitor seems to restart when I leave my computer alone for over a minute? Does it go into some kind of standby?


Sounds like a DVI power save mode problem


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Sounds like a DVI power save mode problem


rollover how does your green-sum return go? I emailed him yesterday but no reply yet. Guess I have to wait until Monday. Is your monitor DOA? Did you ask for a refund or a exchange?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> rollover how does your green-sum return go? I emailed him yesterday but no reply yet. Guess I have to wait until Monday. Is your monitor DOA? Did you ask for a refund or a exchange?


Finally got to green-sum this morning (Korean time). They sent me a message to let me know they had it, that it was in testing, and that they would let me know the results "soon." The monitor was DOA and green-sum said I would need to arrange to have it picked up and sent back for warranty repair or replacement (their choice). I did not ask for a refund since I still wanted a working Q270. Then it got stuck in customs and he offered the refund if it didn't get cleared this week, it did so I think I am back on for repair/replacement.

Thanks for asking--don't worry, green-sum has always gotten back to me, eventually. They are facing a backlog because of the clearance blockage, it is overnight there now.


----------



## bf2badass

go to power option in control panel change plans you will see display it maybe set to turn off after a min u can change it there


----------



## Georgevonfrank

Considering buying one of these, is one of the suppliers more reliable then the others? Would my 670 be able to comfortably game at this resolution?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Georgevonfrank*
> 
> Considering buying one of these, is one of the suppliers more reliable then the others? Would my 670 be able to comfortably game at this resolution?


Thank you!
My problem is different than yours, scratch (or dead pixels) inside the screen and huge light bleeding. Not sure if he is willing to do replacement or refund. Finger crossed. I should have bought the HP 2440W in the first place.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Thank you!
> My problem is different than yours, scratch (or dead pixels) inside the screen and huge light bleeding. Not sure if he is willing to do replacement or refund. Finger crossed. I should have bought the HP 2440W in the first place.


Green-sum will ask you the following, If you prepare your answers and photos now it may save some time.
1. Send us a detailed picture at (green-sum's email address)<--- I will pm this to you if you want
2. Does the LED on the power adapter stay green, no blinking? If you can, check for 24 volt output across top and bottom pins.
3. Does the LED on the display show green, blinking green, or solid red?
4. Did you check to be certain both ends of the DVI cable were securely connected?
5. Is your graphic card supplying a valid dual-link DVI signal?
6. Are you using any signal adapters (HDMI to DVI, etc.) or a laptop?

I know these won't relate to your issue but it is the standard troubleshooting questions they ask. If you have good pictures and have these answers prepared in advance green-sum should move quickly to get you a return shipment set up.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Green-sum will ask you the following, If you prepare your answers and photos now it may save some time.
> 1. Send us a detailed picture at (green-sum's email address)<--- I will pm this to you if you want
> 2. Does the LED on the power adapter stay green, no blinking? If you can, check for 24 volt output across top and bottom pins.
> 3. Does the LED on the display show green, blinking green, or solid red?
> 4. Did you check to be certain both ends of the DVI cable were securely connected?
> 5. Is your graphic card supplying a valid dual-link DVI signal?
> 6. Are you using any signal adapters (HDMI to DVI, etc.) or a laptop?
> I know these won't relate to your issue but it is the standard troubleshooting questions they ask. If you have good pictures and have these answers prepared in advance green-sum should move quickly to get you a return shipment set up.


Thank you again!
Do you think the pictures I posted before are good enough to show the problems?
And I already included the link for the pictures in the ebay message.
Again, thank you for all of the information! I will patiently wait for green-sum's response.


----------



## God Father

Do green-sum and BCC give a warranty on these? What happens if 6 months down the line they go puff?


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Been using this one for a few weeks now, suddenly it is blinking a red light and the power button does nothing. As soon as power is connected it just blinks. Any ideas?

Power adaptor is blinking green as well.


----------



## jam3s

Currently removing the bezel and panel from the monitor to remove the stand lol.

Going to buy a wall mount right now.

I am on my phone and spoilers don't show up, but what size VESA mount is it again? 3"?

I know nothing about wall mounts or VESA. Please help


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Currently removing the bezel and panel from the monitor to remove the stand lol.
> Going to buy a wall mount right now.
> I am on my phone and spoilers don't show up, but what size VESA mount is it again? 3"?
> I know nothing about wall mounts or VESA. Please help


They're 75mm. I think that's 3". Pretty standard size.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *God Father*
> 
> Do green-sum and BCC give a warranty on these? What happens if 6 months down the line they go puff?


Yamakasi provides a one-year warranty, but that is not applicable outside their market. So those of us outside have to rely on the reseller to effect warranty service on our behalf with Yamakasi, they do not provide the warranty themselves.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Thank you again!
> Do you think the pictures I posted before are good enough to show the problems?
> And I already included the link for the pictures in the ebay message.
> Again, thank you for all of the information! I will patiently wait for green-sum's response.


Did your monitor have tempered glass? The pictures were not good enough for me to judge, but since you paid for pixel perfect I would be surprised if green-sum needed more. Do you have a camera with a macro shooting mode, or could you borrow one from a mate?


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Thank you!
> My problem is different than yours, scratch (or dead pixels) inside the screen and huge light bleeding. Not sure if he is willing to do replacement or refund. Finger crossed. I should have bought the HP 2440W in the first place.
> 
> 
> 
> Green-sum will ask you the following, If you prepare your answers and photos now it may save some time.
> 1. Send us a detailed picture at (green-sum's email address)<--- I will pm this to you if you want
> 2. Does the LED on the power adapter stay green, no blinking? If you can, check for 24 volt output across top and bottom pins.
> 3. Does the LED on the display show green, blinking green, or solid red?
> 4. Did you check to be certain both ends of the DVI cable were securely connected?
> 5. Is your graphic card supplying a valid dual-link DVI signal?
> 6. Are you using any signal adapters (HDMI to DVI, etc.) or a laptop?
> 
> I know these won't relate to your issue but it is the standard troubleshooting questions they ask. If you have good pictures and have these answers prepared in advance green-sum should move quickly to get you a return shipment set up.
Click to expand...

do they pay return shipping cost?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Did your monitor have tempered glass? The pictures were not good enough for me to judge, but since you paid for pixel perfect I would be surprised if green-sum needed more. Do you have a camera with a macro shooting mode, or could you borrow one from a mate?


no q270 multi does not have temped glass. It looks like a scratch inside the screen, or could be a pile of dead pixels grouped together to form that shape. I will definitely get a better camera if green-sum needs more detailed pictures. The part that I did not appreciated is that he lied to me about the monitor checking, that bothers me the most.


----------



## mva5580

I think the quicker we all come to terms with the fact that these monitors are most likely not going to last too long, the better. Let's face it......we all paid less than half price, from a Korean company that's rebadging displays which were refused by Apple. We all need to accept that there's a reason why these monitors are ~$350, and buying one from Dell, etc costs upwards of $800.

If mine lasts me 2 years, I'll be ecstatic. But at this point, considering the constant stream of people who end up having some kind of issue with theirs, I'm not expecting it. We all took the risk on this one; many of us will get burned, some of us will pleasantly enjoy our displays for an extended amount of time.

But by this point, I don't think anyone should be overly surprised if theirs craps out on them. They're clearly just not built too well.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> do they pay return shipping cost?


If you have a problem right away, most posters here have had the return shipping covered, _after_ that I do not know.
Has anyone in the thread sought a warranty repair outside the buyer protection period provided by eBay?

I suspect not, most warranties require you to pay any shipping required to get it to the nearest warranty service center. Since international shipping of individual parcels is so expensive I don't see how these resellers could afford to continue to cover shipping for the full year. If this is a concern for you, be certain you have a signed agreement from your reseller or purchase a monitor from a firm with local warranty support in your country.


----------



## DRatchet

Words cannot describe how pissed off I am right now...

green-sum sent me my dead monitor back, with a new adapter, after claiming it was an adapter problem.

I get the monitor, open it up, set it up, and...

1. One of the stand support screws is missing.
2. The plastic silver arch on the back of the monitor is loose and doesn't seem to be secured properly
*3. The monitor now has multiple dead pixels. I'm pretty sure it didn't have these before I sent it in. I paid for perfect pixel*

I don't even...


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Words cannot describe how pissed off I am right now...
> green-sum sent me my dead monitor back, with a new adapter, after claiming it was an adapter problem.
> I get the monitor, open it up, set it up, and...
> 1. One of the stand support screws is missing.
> 2. The plastic silver arch on the back of the monitor is loose and doesn't seem to be secured properly
> *3. The monitor now has multiple dead pixels. I'm pretty sure it didn't have these before I sent it in. I paid for perfect pixel*
> I don't even...


that sounds pretty bad... have you filed a dispute on paypal and escalate it to get paypal to intervene?

i just sent my DOA monitor and i'm demanding a refund or i'll escalate the dispute.


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> that sounds pretty bad... have you filed a dispute on paypal and escalate it to get paypal to intervene?
> i just sent my DOA monitor and i'm demanding a refund or i'll escalate the dispute.


Think I should talk to green-sum again to see what he has to say first?


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Think I should talk to green-sum again to see what he has to say first?


yea. asked him to refund you or else take it up with paypal.


----------



## DRatchet

Looking more closely, I'm not entirely sure if they are in fact dead pixels. If I put my eye right up to my screen, it looks like the pixels are working, but there is like.. dirt under the screen somehow. It's in multiple places, and can't be cleaned off. Looks like a dead pixel from viewing distance.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> Looking more closely, I'm not entirely sure if they are in fact dead pixels. If I put my eye right up to my screen, it looks like the pixels are working, but there is like.. dirt under the screen somehow. It's in multiple places, and can't be cleaned off. Looks like a dead pixel from viewing distance.


hmm dirt. is urs a tempered glass version? i hear they tend to have dust stuck under the glass.


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> hmm dirt. is urs a tempered glass version? i hear they tend to have dust stuck under the glass.


No, no glass...

I'm really not sure what it is. They might be dead pixels. I don't have much experience with dead pixels though, so I can't say for sure.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> No, no glass...
> I'm really not sure what it is. They might be dead pixels. I don't have much experience with dead pixels though, so I can't say for sure.


I think we might have exactly the same problem. CHeck my picture, do they look the same?


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I think we might have exactly the same problem. CHeck my picture, do they look the same?


Mine are dark colored, and most easily seen when the screen is white.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRatchet*
> 
> No, no glass...
> I'm really not sure what it is. They might be dead pixels. I don't have much experience with dead pixels though, so I can't say for sure.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I think we might have exactly the same problem. CHeck my picture, do they look the same?


Have either of you stuck a 'stuck pixel' test? Looks like debris in the panels to me, but hard to tell from the photo. Debris will appear dark against a light background color.


----------



## braveblade

I will ask for a refund from green-sum, too much risk and hassle with these monitors. I will probably buy a hp 2440w instead, maybe not as good as these korean monitors, but with 3 years warranty.


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Have either of you stuck a 'stuck pixel' test? Looks like debris in the panels to me, but hard to tell from the photo. Debris will appear dark against a light background color.


Yea, I'm pretty sure it's not a stuck pixel.


----------



## jam3s

Disassembled the monitor, removed the stand, and mounting it right now. Pics to come later!


----------



## jam3s

Uploaded with ImageShack.us


----------



## PastaJackal

Received second catleap from BCC today. Amazing quality, no dead pixels or serious light bleed and super fast delivery. Running dual monitors is quite nice although a little daunting at first. Certainly a lot of real estate for editing.


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> 
> Uploaded with ImageShack.us


Very nice! I want to do the same to mine, was the disassemble and removal of the stand scary? Meaning, were the internals delicate enough that if you did a wrong move you would damage it?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Very nice! I want to do the same to mine, was the disassemble and removal of the stand scary? Meaning, were the internals delicate enough that if you did a wrong move you would damage it?


I nicked up my bezel pretty bad from trying to pry it off. The only other thing you have to worry about is the connections, I lifted up the panel with the connections still in accidentally but it didn't snap off or anything. It's not too bad unless you get sweaty hands like me


----------



## VandreadZero

Got mine last week from Green-Sum. Shipping takes approx 3 working days to Indonesia. Paid approx $70 in custom directly to DHL (could be lower if the item marked <$150, I wrote $150 so the custom guy wouldn't get suspicious), Got 1 bright pixel that can only seen when the background is black. No serious light-bleeding. Very happy with my purchase.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> Very nice! I want to do the same to mine, was the disassemble and removal of the stand scary? Meaning, were the internals delicate enough that if you did a wrong move you would damage it?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I nicked up my bezel pretty bad from trying to pry it off. The only other thing you have to worry about is the connections, I lifted up the panel with the connections still in accidentally but it didn't snap off or anything. It's not too bad unless you get sweaty hands like me


Pretty much what bigrenke said, it's fine, just be careful with the bezel when you're trying to pry it off with a flat head.

I used a very tiny flathead and luckily I only did a bit of damage to my bezel lol.

It's the most delicate part IMO.

The ribbon cable/connectors are fine, just when you're removing the two apart, don't rip it off. Just be mindful that there are three cables, and one is particularly hairy to connect.

Also, when putting everything back together, the actual Panel reads "UP" just so you don't flip it and mount it upside down lol


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

So no-one has any idea if there is a way to fix blinking red light issue then? Guess it needs return.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> So no-one has any idea if there is a way to fix blinking red light issue then? Guess it needs return.


I have not seen this mine was DOA with no light at all. It does sound like you'll need to contact your seller,they can tell you if this requires a return to the factory.


----------



## DRatchet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Have either of you stuck a 'stuck pixel' test? Looks like debris in the panels to me, but hard to tell from the photo. Debris will appear dark against a light background color.


I think it is like debris in the panel. But it won't be cleaned off, it's like, under the screen..


----------



## jmarsiglio

Jesus, now my monitor won't even turn on. It tries to but just shuts off a second later. The power brick is blinking green too. Is this an RMA? Or will I be forced to buy a $40 power brick and a $40 dvi cable just to see if this stupid thing works.


----------



## skyisover

I have a question. I'm looking to buy this catleap monitor. I notice that there are three options: regular, tempered glass, and multi. I'm guessing that tempered glass just means stronger display screen. Now what is the multi monitor? I think I heard that it has something the regular doesn't. Is it a good idea to buy that one? Will I ever need it? The price different can be close to $100 so I'm not sure.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Multi monitor has more input options instead of just DVi. It has VGA + HDMI as well. It has a scaler too. But the input lag is higher than the normal monitor so that might annoy you. Personally I would get the normal monitor. Or just don't get one of these monitors at all because they are fraught with problems.


----------



## SammichThyme

I found your stand mounting guide to be worthless as well as very helpful. Maybe make a more detailed guide on removing the bezel as that was the hardest part, or perhaps make a video.


----------



## kazzjohnson

After reading last few pages of this thread, it seems like a lot of people are having problems with these monitors. Backlight bleeding, dead pixels, gradient brightness and power problems weeks after purchase...

Is the risk really worth it? What are the odds of actually getting one without any defects?


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I found your stand mounting guide to be worthless as well as very helpful. Maybe make a more detailed guide on removing the bezel as that was the hardest part, or perhaps make a video.


well, it's pretty self explainatory.

Remove 8 screws.

Remove bezel.

Disconnect connectors.

Remove stand.

At least he took some pictures...


----------



## bf2badass

Ve
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> After reading last few pages of this thread, it seems like a lot of people are having problems with these monitors. Backlight bleeding, dead pixels, gradient brightness and power problems weeks after purchase...
> Is the risk really worth it? What are the odds of actually getting one without any defects?


. Bought mine from bcc 120hz last Fri I love it


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I found your stand mounting guide to be worthless as well as very helpful. Maybe make a more detailed guide on removing the bezel as that was the hardest part, or perhaps make a video.


Hmmm I had no issues and when I first did this back in February had no experience whatsoever with the Cats. I assumed all came apart the same (and they do I have torn down almost a dozen since then). All of the ones I have done have all been "loose" around the OSD panel and that is where I started to pop the bezel apart. Easiest tear down I have ever done that I don't really think needs a video. Do one up and post it - I will add it to the OP.


----------



## Dynamike

Hello everyone!

I have been reading the general thread(s) for these monitors and I have read pretty much the whole thing for the Yamakasi Catleap(yes many pages). I also have an idea on who I would buy it from.

But I wanted to know what the community thought about the longevity of the product. From people who have it, does it seem like a product that would last a while like a regular monitor purchased in a store or seems to have a shorter life expectancy? I understand the risk involved into getting this kind of monitor and I am not trying to be negative about the product or the situation but I would appreciate to hear what people think about that.

I know some people have had the chance to experience with them for a while and even some with multiple units and I would appreciate the feedback.

Thank you!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have four - one from February that is OC'd to 100hz - and haven't had a single issue (and I even shorted the darn thing once!) All four will do 120hz + and they are all set to 100hz. I leave my two tester monitors on 24 hours a day. Of course, this is way too short of a time frame to come to any conclusions, but all four seem to be doing fine.

EDIT: The reason they are "only" running 100hz is because they are running off either 580s or 560s (well one of my testers is actually running from a GTS 250!) Once the bad boy Keplers come out I plan on upgrading my GPUs across the board. Recall that the pixel clock limitation of pre-Kepler cards is what keeps you from hitting 120hz+ with OC version Cats (and SLI and in some cases AMD drivers and, and, and . . .







)


----------



## rollOver

Seems like the early models with the LG boards as well as the display were great, not so hot now judging by all the problems. Hopefully this is just a bad batch to be worked through!


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dynamike*
> 
> Hello everyone!
> I have been reading the general thread(s) for these monitors and I have read pretty much the whole thing for the Yamakasi Catleap(yes many pages). I also have an idea on who I would buy it from.
> But I wanted to know what the community thought about the longevity of the product. From people who have it, does it seem like a product that would last a while like a regular monitor purchased in a store or seems to have a shorter life expectancy? I understand the risk involved into getting this kind of monitor and I am not trying to be negative about the product or the situation but I would appreciate to hear what people think about that.
> I know some people have had the chance to experience with them for a while and even some with multiple units and I would appreciate the feedback.
> Thank you!


With my experience on my monitors, if you want to use these monitors for a long time, you're going to first get better stands (or at least take really good care of the ones included), and keep them clean/dust free.Compared to a monitor "purchased in a store" the cheapness falls in the housing of the panels. At least with my monitors, the bezel is warped in a few areas, but the panel itself flawless.

So, the way I see it, you will get as much time out of these monitors are you are willing to put in... sort of... you get my point







.
Quote:


> Seems like the early models with the LG boards as well as the display were great, not so hot now judging by all the problems. Hopefully this is just a bad batch to be worked through!


I ordered mine from BCC just recently and I received two perfect monitors.


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Anyone else had to pay return from UK on ebay? The postage is £100+! ridiculous.


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DRILLERKILLA*
> 
> Anyone else had to pay return from UK on ebay? The postage is £100+! ridiculous.


Try parcel2go.


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *horrorwood*
> 
> Try parcel2go.


Thanks yeah I did find them and cheapest is £75. Still very expensive but guess have no choice for refund unless ebay have an alternative.


----------



## kazzjohnson

If I get Yamakasi Catleap, I suppose I'm going to have to use it at 2560x1440. That's not a problem for desktop and all, but what if my GPU is not strong enough to push games at that resolution?

How do games look set to 1920x1080 on that monitor? Does it affect input lag?

Do you even need anti-aliasing when using 2560x1440?

I have HD 7850 overclocked at 1050 MHz, will that suffice for 2560x1440 without AA?

Also, can someone explain what does "SE" stand for?


----------



## God Father

SE stands for without speakers.

The 7850 will be fine.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Good to hear. I'm looking to get one without speakers, without AG coating and without tempered glass. Still trying to decide between Catleap and Shimian.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Good to hear. I'm looking to get one without speakers, without AG coating and without tempered glass. Still trying to decide between Catleap and Shimian.


Make sure you PM the seller and ask them to check it, to make sure it is not AG.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> With my experience on my monitors, if you want to use these monitors for a long time, you're going to first get better stands (or at least take really good care of the ones included), and keep them clean/dust free.Compared to a monitor "purchased in a store" the cheapness falls in the housing of the panels. At least with my monitors, the bezel is warped in a few areas, but the panel itself flawless.
> So, the way I see it, you will get as much time out of these monitors are you are willing to put in... sort of... you get my point
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Seems like the early models with the LG boards as well as the display were great, not so hot now judging by all the problems. Hopefully this is just a bad batch to be worked through!
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered mine from BCC just recently and I received two perfect monitors.
Click to expand...

I put about $300 in, yet to get anything out!


----------



## gw280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> If I get Yamakasi Catleap, I suppose I'm going to have to use it at 2560x1440. That's not a problem for desktop and all, but what if my GPU is not strong enough to push games at that resolution?
> How do games look set to 1920x1080 on that monitor? Does it affect input lag?
> Do you even need anti-aliasing when using 2560x1440?
> I have HD 7850 overclocked at 1050 MHz, will that suffice for 2560x1440 without AA?
> Also, can someone explain what does "SE" stand for?


7850 should be fine. It's fairly similar to the GTX 570 which I used to use at 2560x1440 and a bit slower than the GTX 670 I now use. I don't play many super intensive titles, but I have no issues running with 4x MSAA on the 670 (although I now use FXAA) and without AA on the 570 at native resolution.

Scaling will be done on the GPU which is insanely fast on modern GPUs so there shouldn't be any lag there. Probably less than if you had scaling hardware in the monitor.

The pixel density of the 27" panel isn't *that* high; it's about 110dpi, which isn't much higher than your average 100dpi screens. You will probably notice lack of AA. You're looking at 200dpi+ before you can really not notice AA being present or not.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> 7850 should be fine. It's fairly similar to the GTX 570 which I used to use at 2560x1440 and a bit slower than the GTX 670 I now use. I don't play many super intensive titles, but I have no issues running with 4x MSAA on the 670 (although I now use FXAA) and without AA on the 570 at native resolution.
> Scaling will be done on the GPU which is insanely fast on modern GPUs so there shouldn't be any lag there. Probably less than if you had scaling hardware in the monitor.
> The pixel density of the 27" panel isn't *that* high; it's about 110dpi, which isn't much higher than your average 100dpi screens. You will probably notice lack of AA. You're looking at 200dpi+ before you can really not notice AA being present or not.


I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but what do you mean the 570 is a bit slower than the 670?

The 670 is about 20-25% faster if not more than a 580.

So it should theoretically kill the said 570.


----------



## gw280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> I don't mean to sound like a jerk, but what do you mean the 570 is a bit slower than the 670?
> The 670 is about 20-25% faster if not more than a 580.
> So it should theoretically kill the said 570.


Depends on your definition of "a bit slower".


----------



## henrygale

Received a 2F Catleap from BCC this past week. The panel seems to be good so far. The stand is quite wobbly, but it only is an issue when pushing a button. The plastic wrap protecting the bezel was stuck quite deep in between the housing pieces at some points, so upon removal, a few small pieces tore off and are now stuck.

Also I noticed the monitor makes my speakers produce a hum noise..has anyone experienced this as well? Maybe the shielding isn't too good? I have not tried moving my speakers further away yet though haha.

And I was wondering, what is that small circle on the bottom left part of the bezel?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *henrygale*
> 
> Received a 2F Catleap from BCC this past week. The panel seems to be good so far. The stand is quite wobbly, but it only is an issue when pushing a button. The plastic wrap protecting the bezel was stuck quite deep in between the housing pieces at some points, so upon removal, a few small pieces tore off and are now stuck.
> Also I noticed the monitor makes my speakers produce a hum noise..has anyone experienced this as well? Maybe the shielding isn't too good? I have not tried moving my speakers further away yet though haha.
> And I was wondering, what is that small circle on the bottom left part of the bezel?


The circle in the bottom left is a spot for an auto-brightness sensor which is obviously not installed.


----------



## Aznboy1993

I'm looking to buy one of these Korean 2560x1440 monitors to run with my MacBook and I'm confused as to which brand I should choose and which seller I should buy from. The main ones I've been looking at are:

Achieva QH270-Lite
Crossover 27Q LED
Potalion 2710QW
Yamakasi Catleap Q270SE

from these sellers:

bigclothcraft
dream-seller
green-sum

Which should I buy and who to buy from? The cheapest Yamakasi from green-sum is $289.99, but I could get a pixel perfect Potalion from bigclothcraft for $330. What do you think?


----------



## mikeseth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> I'm looking to buy one of these Korean 2560x1440 monitors to run with my MacBook and I'm confused as to which brand I should choose and which seller I should buy from. The main ones I've been looking at are:
> Achieva QH270-Lite
> Crossover 27Q LED
> Potalion 2710QW
> Yamakasi Catleap Q270SE
> from these sellers:
> bigclothcraft
> dream-seller
> green-sum
> Which should I buy and who to buy from? The cheapest Yamakasi from green-sum is $289.99, but I could get a pixel perfect Potalion from bigclothcraft for $330. What do you think?


Try making an offer for $300 for the Perfect Pixel one from BCC... I want to get the Potalion (for my air), as it's a perfect pixel one for a bit more, better than ending up with a damaged monitor.

BCC seems to be the nicest seller based upon the comments on OCN.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeseth*
> 
> Try making an offer for $300 for the Perfect Pixel one from BCC... I want to get the Potalion (for my air), as it's a perfect pixel one for a bit more, better than ending up with a damaged monitor.
> BCC seems to be the nicest seller based upon the comments on OCN.


Done. Thanks!









Quick question, what are the actual differences (besides aesthetics) between the different brands?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> 7850 should be fine. It's fairly similar to the GTX 570 which I used to use at 2560x1440 and a bit slower than the GTX 670 I now use. I don't play many super intensive titles, but I have no issues running with 4x MSAA on the 670 (although I now use FXAA) and without AA on the 570 at native resolution.
> Scaling will be done on the GPU which is insanely fast on modern GPUs so there shouldn't be any lag there. Probably less than if you had scaling hardware in the monitor.
> The pixel density of the 27" panel isn't *that* high; it's about 110dpi, which isn't much higher than your average 100dpi screens. You will probably notice lack of AA. You're looking at 200dpi+ before you can really not notice AA being present or not.


I had a GTX 570 and replaced it with a GTX 670... *on average my GTX 670 was 40% to 50% FASTER than my GTX 570*... in both 1920x1200p and 2560x1440p resolutions. I think I posted my tests of both some where on OCN...


----------



## mikeseth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> Done. Thanks!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick question, what are the actual differences (besides aesthetics) between the different brands?


The PCBank 3View monitors have a slighter faster response time and slightly better contrast ratio. Whereas, the Catleaps monitors can be overclocked to 120Hz (some only, people have reported the new ones they received can not do this anymore). The Shimian, Catleaps, PCBank, Potalion, Crossovers all use the same LG based S-IPS Display (except PCBank might have a slightly better one). The main difference is the design. I asked BCC a few days ago and the seller told me the Potalion is the same as the Shimian.

I would say to stick with the Potalion perfect pixel. I personally like the design of either the Potalion, Shimian or Crossover. But as the Shimian and Crossover pixel perfect are $370+ range, I'd drop on the Potalion any day. The potation model is relatively new and people are jumping on it real quick.

I'm going to make an offer of $300 for the Potalion to BCC.. Seems like a fine solution for my MacBook Air.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeseth*
> 
> The PCBank 3View monitors have a slighter faster response time and slightly better contrast ratio. Whereas, the Catleaps monitors can be overclocked to 120Hz (some only, people have reported the new ones they received can not do this anymore). The Shimian, Catleaps, PCBank, Potalion, Crossovers all use the same LG based S-IPS Display (except PCBank might have a slightly better one). The main difference is the design. I asked BCC a few days ago and the seller told me the Potalion is the same as the Shimian.


Every Korean monitor is the exact same panel. The contrast ratio, response time, and overclockability are the exact same. Old "2B" Catleaps could overclock to 120hz with the right hardware, but anything that isn't a 2B cannot. You can buy 2B Catleaps from other sources for considerably more.

Just curios where'd you hear that the PCBank has better contrast ratio/response time?


----------



## mikeseth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Every Korean monitor is the exact same panel. The contrast ratio, response time, and overclockability are the exact same. Old "2B" Catleaps could overclock to 120hz with the right hardware, but anything that isn't a 2B cannot. You can buy 2B Catleaps from other sources for considerably more.
> Just curios where'd you hear that the PCBank has better contrast ratio/response time?


*I got that from the first post here:*
Quote:


> With the Catleap craze, the PCBANK 3VIEW PB2700 seems to have been overlooked.
> 
> It's response time measured in at 9.5ms avg vs 11.4ms on the Catleap. It's contrast ratio was measured at 1200:1 vs 1000:1


http://www.overclock.net/t/1228729/better-27-ips-from-korea-pcbank-3view-pb2700

There is probably no difference at all. I didn't read the full thread though, so might be some old / outdated / outlawed news.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeseth*
> 
> *I got that from the first post here:*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> With the Catleap craze, the PCBANK 3VIEW PB2700 seems to have been overlooked.
> It's response time measured in at 9.5ms avg vs 11.4ms on the Catleap. It's contrast ratio was measured at 1200:1 vs 1000:1
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1228729/better-27-ips-from-korea-pcbank-3view-pb2700
> There is probably no difference at all. I didn't read the full thread though, so might be some old / outdated / outlawed news.
Click to expand...

Interesting


----------



## gw280

I'd be inclined to believe it's just a lucky panel. They're the same panels, and I don't think that a single sample is indicative of the entire batch. Also, I'd like to know what their margin of error is on their measuring equipment.


----------



## skyn3t

where did you guys usually buy this CatLeap from? any good source or you guys get it from ebay?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skyn3t*
> 
> where did you guys usually buy this CatLeap from? any good source or you guys get it from ebay?


eBay is the only place I know of to buy regular catleaps.


----------



## Sapientia

I've been on the fence for a while, I have a couple concerns.

Is paying the ~$70 extra dollars for the perfect pixel ones worth it? Are they actually making sure there are no dead pixels, or just saying they are?
What's the difference between the ones with "tempered glass" versus the non tempered glass displays?


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapientia*
> 
> I've been on the fence for a while, I have a couple concerns.
> Is paying the ~$70 extra dollars for the perfect pixel ones worth it? Are they actually making sure there are no dead pixels, or just saying they are?
> What's the difference between the ones with "tempered glass" versus the non tempered glass displays?


I was in the same boat, and decided against paying the money for the pixel perfect. I bought two of these so the difference would be much larger. Fortunately, I received my monitors without any defects regardless of purchasing the "basic" model of the monitors. Basically, the glass option is exactly that, you get glass as opposed to just the glossy film.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sapientia*
> 
> I've been on the fence for a while, I have a couple concerns.
> Is paying the ~$70 extra dollars for the perfect pixel ones worth it? Are they actually making sure there are no dead pixels, or just saying they are?
> What's the difference between the ones with "tempered glass" versus the non tempered glass displays?


People tend to prefer non temper glass, Something to do with the reflect maybe.

My understanding from posts is that pixel perfect doesn't guarantee anything other then then you can ship it back at their cost if it has more then 5 dead pixels and get a replacement. People that don't order pixel perfect can also get a perfect monitor.

Whether it is worth 70$ dollars or not depends on how much dead pixels (typically unnoticeable) might bother you and whether you would want to be able to ship it back or not.


----------



## Sapientia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> I was in the same boat, and decided against paying the money for the pixel perfect. I bought two of these so the difference would be much larger. Fortunately, I received my monitors without any defects regardless of purchasing the "basic" model of the monitors. Basically, the glass option is exactly that, you get glass as opposed to just the glossy film.


So the tempered glass is like what covers the iMac's display?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> People tend to prefer non temper glass, Something to do with the reflect maybe.
> My understanding from posts is that pixel perfect doesn't guarantee anything other then then you can ship it back at their cost if it has more then 5 dead pixels and get a replacement. People that don't order pixel perfect can also get a perfect monitor.
> Whether it is worth 70$ dollars or not depends on how much dead pixels (typically unnoticeable) might bother you and whether you would want to be able to ship it back or not.


Is it the same between different sellers? Like BCC and green-sum?
Also I understand is return shipping can be monumental.


----------



## Dazog

I am having this problem with my Potalion 2710QW, It happens randomly.






Could this be a power brick problem?

Has anyone see this with the Yamakasi's?


----------



## asuperpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazog*
> 
> I am having this problem with my Potalion 2710QW, It happens randomly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could this be a power brick problem?
> 
> Has anyone see this with the Yamakasi's?


Have you tried a different cable, resolution or refresh rate? Have you had this for the whole life of the monitor? If not, what has changed in the time that this has developed?








\_asuperpower_/


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazog*
> 
> I am having this problem with my Potalion 2710QW, It happens randomly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could this be a power brick problem?
> Has anyone see this with the Yamakasi's?


Take a look at the power brick to see if the light indicator stays green (if it has one).

Try a different Dual Link DVI-D cable. Maybe its not plugged in snug?

I've only had something similar happen to me when I was using a bad HDMI cable for one of my monitors.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazog*
> 
> I am having this problem with my Potalion 2710QW, It happens randomly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could this be a power brick problem?
> Has anyone see this with the Yamakasi's?


looks like interference, Are you using any adapters? Try rerouting the DVI cable away from any other cables, especially power cables. Also move other equipment away from the monitor itself, they could be emitting interference as well.


----------



## thehaloboy

Does anyone know what would happen if you had three of these monitors running in SLI, and one of them was the quicker 120Hz version. Can the computer run them at different refresh rates?


----------



## asuperpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thehaloboy*
> 
> Does anyone know what would happen if you had three of these monitors running in SLI, and one of them was the quicker 120Hz version. Can the computer run them at different refresh rates?


You can, but make sure you don't run out of VRAM.
















\_asuperpower_/


----------



## Manooloo

Hey guys, I just ordered my Catleap monitor. I'm planning to upgrade graphics card from my 6850 and was wondering if a 670 or 7950 would be better suited to the high resolution?


----------



## Lazarus1983

Got my Yamakasi Catleap Multi with perfect pixel from Green-Sum on Thursday.

I payed with PayPal on Monday.

The contact was very nice and I got always a quick reply on my questions









I asked green-sum before I ordered to do some addtional packaging material around my parcel. They said they did. The monitor arrived without that material. Maybe... the German duty officers opened it









I had to pay an additional amount of 86,06 € at my door to the DHL-employee. In German its called "Einfuhrumsatzsteuer"

Now to the monitor itself.

It´s fantastic. I couldn´t find any dead pixels. The picture is just awesome. At the moment I have nothing to complain at the Yamakasi Catleap on my 5770 via Dual DVI.
This week ill try to connect it with my Laptop with the 5470 via HDMI.

I worked a few ours on it (GIMP, Scribus, Oxygen) and yes played a few ours (D3 and WOT). Even there is nothing to complain with.

2 times I imagined a tiny horizontal line for the split of a second, but maybe I´m wrong and just saw through a milstone. I´ll observe that. Like this: 




but only one and as i said only for the split of a second.

The external power supply gets very hot after a while.

At the moment I´m very happy with my Catleap, and I hope I´ll still be happy with it in a few weeks.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazarus1983*
> 
> Got my Yamakasi Catleap Multi with perfect pixel from Green-Sum on Thursday.
> I payed with PayPal on Monday.
> The contact was very nice and I got always a quick reply on my questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I asked green-sum before I ordered to do some addtional packaging material around my parcel. They said they did. The monitor arrived without that material. Maybe... the German duty officers opened it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I had to pay an additional amount of 86,06 € at my door to the DHL-employee. In German its called "Einfuhrumsatzsteuer"
> Now to the monitor itself.
> It´s fantastic. I couldn´t find any dead pixels. The picture is just awesome. At the moment I have nothing to complain at the Yamakasi Catleap on my 5770 via Dual DVI.
> This week ill try to connect it with my Laptop with the 5470 via HDMI.
> I worked a few ours on it (GIMP, Scribus, Oxygen) and yes played a few ours (D3 and WOT). Even there is nothing to complain with.
> 2 times I imagined a tiny horizontal line for the split of a second, but maybe I´m wrong and just saw through a milstone. I´ll observe that. Like this:
> 
> 
> 
> but only one and as i said only for the split of a second.
> The external power supply gets very hot after a while.
> At the moment I´m very happy with my Catleap, and I hope I´ll still be happy with it in a few weeks.


Green-sum promises a lot of things. I asked him to open the box to check for dead pixel and light bleeding (i bought the perfect pixel one). He said yes. Monitor came in with factory seal (never opened), piles of dead pixels and crazy bleeding. Sent the photos to him and still waiting for his reply. Speechless...


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazarus1983*
> 
> At the moment I´m very happy with my Catleap, and I hope I´ll still be happy with it in a few weeks.


So glad it came through safe and sound, happy gaming!

I heard back this morning that the factory deemed mine an "item defect" and green-sum offered a full refund or to send off a new one at my request. I asked them to send a new unit, so hopefully I can actually join the club by the end of the week!


----------



## Dazog

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Take a look at the power brick to see if the light indicator stays green (if it has one).
> Try a different Dual Link DVI-D cable. Maybe its not plugged in snug?
> I've only had something similar happen to me when I was using a bad HDMI cable for one of my monitors.


I have tried 2 DVI-D cables, I have a new cable running from the power brick to the wall and I will see if it's a case of another device causing interference.

I am at a loss as to what causes it, its so random and happens with in 1 hour of being powered on or so then never happens again while the monitor is powered up.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Green-sum promises a lot of things. I asked him to open the box to check for dead pixel and light bleeding (i bought the perfect pixel one). He said yes. Monitor came in with factory seal (never opened), piles of dead pixels and crazy bleeding. Sent the photos to him and still waiting for his reply. Speechless...


I am beginning to think these monitors are simply drop-shipped from the factory (they do the "pixel checks" in any case) so all the replies about checking the monitor, or packing it safely are all to make us feel better!


----------



## Lazarus1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Green-sum promises a lot of things. I asked him to open the box to check for dead pixel and light bleeding (i bought the perfect pixel one). He said yes. Monitor came in with factory seal (never opened), piles of dead pixels and crazy bleeding. Sent the photos to him and still waiting for his reply. Speechless...


Oh, that sounds bad.

For how long are you waiting for an answer? I waited about one day for each answer.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dazog*
> 
> I have tried 2 DVI-D cables, I have a new cable running from the power brick to the wall and I will see if it's a case of another device causing interference.
> I am at a loss as to what causes it, its so random and happens with in 1 hour of being powered on or so then never happens again while the monitor is powered up.


Do you have a different source you can try to eliminate that as the source of the banding?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> I am beginning to think these monitors are simply drop-shipped from the factory (they do the "pixel checks" in any case) so all the replies about checking the monitor, or packing it safely are all to make us feel better!


Originally none were drop shipped as they had special packaging. With the current issues it appears some are having I think it is coming down to reseller laziness rather than drop shipping. If your monitor comes in anything (extra box, bubble wrapped, etc.) then it is definitely not a drop ship monitor. Witech will not individually wrap or box a monitor for resale. As far as manufacturer pixel tests, these are not done in the factory (Witech), these are done before Witech buys them (hence why they already know the panel is A+, A, A- etc.) The only check from Witech is power up and picture. I am told Witech does not pixel check out the door.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> I am beginning to think these monitors are simply drop-shipped from the factory (they do the "pixel checks" in any case) so all the replies about checking the monitor, or packing it safely are all to make us feel better!


I think the same. I suggest you get a refund instead.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lazarus1983*
> 
> Oh, that sounds bad.
> For how long are you waiting for an answer? I waited about one day for each answer.


I sent my email last Friday (I'm in CA). Right now it's 1am Tuesday in Korea, no reply yet. Maybe they need to show the photos to the engineers?


----------



## F2 Components

They will both do fine at that resolution. Extra vram is always nice for higher resolutions, but I hardly think it will be a concern. Go with either!


----------



## Lazarus1983

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I sent my email last Friday (I'm in CA). Right now it's 1am Tuesday in Korea, no reply yet. Maybe they need to show the photos to the engineers?


Hm, thats too long. :/

I dont think, they have their own engineers, maybe some guys with an IT-qualifikation for checking the monitors. Maybe they´ll send them to wiltech, but then you should have get an message like this:

We send your request and pictures to wiltech, they´ll contact us soon... or sth like that.

Thats what I would do, if im not able to solve the problem on my own.

But let the buyer wait for such a long time is not the best way to solve such a problem.









(although they know, that people from all over the world are talking about that monitors and yes as well they are talking about the sellers and their support.)

I dont know whats the standard time, a korean support team has to answer the questions. I had an experience with a German support... I couldnt believe, that they needed 1,5 weeks to answer my request....







but in the end, i got what i wanted.

I hope everything will get right for you, too


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Originally none were drop shipped as they had special packaging. With the current issues it appears some are having I think it is coming down to reseller laziness rather than drop shipping. If your monitor comes in anything (extra box, bubble wrapped, etc.) then it is definitely not a drop ship monitor. Witech will not individually wrap or box a monitor for resale. As far as manufacturer pixel tests, these are not done in the factory (Witech), these are done before Witech buys them (hence why they already know the panel is A+, A, A- etc.) The only check from Witech is power up and picture. I am told Witech does not pixel check out the door.


Thanks for that insight, and for all your work on the original write-up!

That is why I am suspecting they drop-ship (at least single unit purchases) now because mine came with a factory seal in a factory box with no additional packing as if it were shipping in-country to a South Korean customer. Others are reporting the same even though they made special requests (check before you ship, extra packing, bubble-wrap, etc.) I even went so far as to offer extra payment for additional packing, no reply to that!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Thanks for that insight, and for all your work on the original write-up!
> That is why I am suspecting they drop-ship (at least single unit purchases) now because mine came with a factory seal in a factory box with no additional packing as if it were shipping in-country to a South Korean customer. Others are reporting the same even though they made special requests (check before you ship, extra packing, bubble-wrap, etc.)


If that is the case I would agree that it was a drop ship and that sucks! Sorry to hear that people are getting crappy versions lately.


----------



## braveblade

How badly is hp 2440w compare to these korean monitors? If not huge, I'd like to buy 2440w. Please comment! Thx!


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> How badly is hp 2440w compare to these korean monitors? If not huge, I'd like to buy 2440w. Please comment! Thx!


Apples to oranges; different resolutions and three diagonal inches smaller in size, isn't a fair comparison. If you can get by with a 24" display then go for it, I think the HP is pretty well reviewed.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Apples to oranges; different resolutions and three diagonal inches smaller in size, isn't a fair comparison. If you can get by with a 24" display then go for it, I think the HP is pretty well reviewed.


Thanks! Is that ag coating really bad? I like the crispness of the q270. Can i get the same visual feeling from 2440w?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Thanks! Is that ag coating really bad? I like the crispness of the q270. Can i get the same visual feeling from 2440w?


That is such a subjective thing, since you're looking at the HP call around to see if you can find one locally that you can clap eyes on. It's the only real way to know if it will bother you or not. Most people report experiencing a 'washed out' (lack of color saturation) experience with the AG coated screens. If you work directly opposite a window (as I do at work) you will want AG, for my monitors at home with only sidelight from windows I prefer no coating.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> That is such a subjective thing, since you're looking at the HP call around to see if you can find one locally that you can clap eyes on. It's the only real way to know if it will bother you or not. Most people report experiencing a 'washed out' (lack of color saturation) experience with the AG coated screens. If you work directly opposite a window (as I do at work) you will want AG, for my monitors at home with only sidelight from windows I prefer no coating.


Alright thx again! Appreciated! Now if I can return the monitor and get the refund...


----------



## apositivebalanc

Hi guys, I just got my catleap and am trying to set it up. I can't seem to figure out how to optimize it and it's driving me crazy.

I have a GTX 670 FTW and have run through optimization several times to no avail, my screen looks like this.



Any help would be awesome

If you can't tell by the pic, my text looks very "chewed up" and is incredibly hard to read


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Thanks for that insight, and for all your work on the original write-up!
> That is why I am suspecting they drop-ship (at least single unit purchases) now because mine came with a factory seal in a factory box with no additional packing as if it were shipping in-country to a South Korean customer. Others are reporting the same even though they made special requests (check before you ship, extra packing, bubble-wrap, etc.) I even went so far as to offer extra payment for additional packing, no reply to that!


same thing happened with me. I bought from green sum and the factory seal logo was still intact (it was a perfect pixel version). Monitor was DOA. He claims the monitor was checked before it was shipped from factory, but seeing all these damaged monitors in this thread I don't believe him.


----------



## gw280

BCC checked my monitors; they were both working fine, and the box had clearly been opened and the monitors clearly unpacked and packed again.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Green-sum was one of sellers I considered buying from, but he can forget about if for blatantly lying.


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> BCC checked my monitors; they were both working fine, and the box had clearly been opened and the monitors clearly unpacked and packed again.


Same with me BBC had opened and checked.


----------



## F2 Components

Looks like BCC is the one to go with.


----------



## Citra

On a scale of 1-10, how bad is the stand if I rarely adjust it?


----------



## djriful

Oh boy... there are so many models vs the 5 from OP. Can someone explain why there are so many? One is Multi which meant for gaming? With glass or without? I can't tell. Pixel Perfect?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Sapientia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Oh boy... there are so many models vs the 5 from OP. Can someone explain why there are so many? One is Multi which meant for gaming? With glass or without? I can't tell. Pixel Perfect?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


AFAIK Multi means it has more than just DVI-D (I think it's HDMI + DVI-D) so you can hook it up to a console. I was wondering about the other two as well.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Oh boy... there are so many models vs the 5 from OP. Can someone explain why there are so many? One is Multi which meant for gaming? With glass or without? I can't tell. Pixel Perfect?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Main differences are tempered glass (with or without), speakers (with or without), inputs (DVI or multi) and pixel checking.

Tempered glass is up to buyer and his/her personal taste, it doesn't affect much except it can be annoying if dust gets under it.

Speakers are crap and you don't need them, so go for SE version.

DVI only is better for gaming because of lower input lag.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Oh boy... there are so many models vs the 5 from OP. Can someone explain why there are so many? One is Multi which meant for gaming? With glass or without? I can't tell. Pixel Perfect?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Main differences are tempered glass (with or without), speakers (with or without), inputs (DVI or multi) and pixel checking.
> 
> Tempered glass is up to buyer and his/her personal taste, it doesn't affect much except it can be annoying if dust gets under it.
> 
> Speakers are crap and you don't need them, so go for SE version.
> 
> DVI only is better for gaming because of lower input lag.
Click to expand...

Some choice for example, I can't have tempered glass with multi?


----------



## msbbc833

Does the catleap from greensum require a power adapter or converter? Or can I use whatever it came with


----------



## 08G8V8

I have 2 Potalions coming, but I am going to ask this question in the other Korean monitors threads, because there are far more folks with the Yamakai/Shimian/Crossover, to hopefully get an answer.

Does anyone know why certain AMD graphics cards are stated as "not supported"? I have the HD5770, and I see folks have them working with these monitors. I will be running dual monitors. I don't think I've seen anybody state they have got dual 1440p monitors with the HD5770. The card has (2) dual DVI ports, so that shouldn't be an issue.

Is the compatibility issue just being able to see the BIOS screen? Or is that issue common to all/most AMD cards?

I am not a gamer, but I will probably put a few games on the machine. I don't want to dump a ton of money into a graphics card meant for gaming, when I don't need that type of card.

So, incase I am unable to get my HD5770 to work with dual 1440p monitors, what is a reasonable powered/priced GPU that you would recommend?

I don't want to derail this thread, so you can send me a PM if you have a suggestion that would fit my needs.

But any info pertaining to the HD5770 or any of the other "not supported" GPUs would be good for others in my situation to see.

Thanks!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Some choice for example, I can't have tempered glass with multi?


That's the one combination that's tricky to find. I wouldn't recommend either of them for gaming, however. The very basic model (no speakers, dvi, no glass) is probably the best choice.


----------



## asuperpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> On a scale of 1-10, how bad is the stand if I rarely adjust it?


I actually quite like the stand.
















\_asuperpower_/


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msbbc833*
> 
> Does the catleap from greensum require a power adapter or converter? Or can I use whatever it came with


Mine came with a US convertor, the voltage was fine for the US, where are you?


----------



## msbbc833

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Mine came with a US convertor, the voltage was fine for the US, where are you?


Houston, TX. Thanks for that info! Ordered from green-sum yesterday. Hoping I get a good monitor with no issues. I saw one guy had an intermittent horizontal line on his screen.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *msbbc833*
> 
> Houston, TX. Thanks for that info! Ordered from green-sum yesterday. Hoping I get a good monitor with no issues. I saw one guy had an intermittent horizontal line on his screen.


Mine was DOA and stuck in customs for 13 days on the way back. Ordered mine more than a month ago, still don't have a working monitor, hope your luck is much better!


----------



## Degree

Will this card run fine with it? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127685
Doesn't seem to say DL-DVI on specs though, but looks like it has DL-DVI


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuperpower*
> 
> I actually quite like the stand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> \_asuperpower_/


lol, you must be the only one.

If I so much as moved my desk even a little bit by accident, mine would fall forward on me. Luckily I caught it both times.

This was about the time I said to myself, time for a wall mount or a new stand....


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> lol, you must be the only one.
> If I so much as moved my desk even a little bit by accident, mine would fall forward on me. Luckily I caught it both times.
> This was about the time I said to myself, time for a wall mount or a new stand....


Mine just wobbled something terrible. I had to use the stand for a few days until my other one came, and man, it was like an earthquake...lol


----------



## phillyd

good thing i have a super sturdy desk! I may still do a wall mount though.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> good thing i have a super sturdy desk! I may still do a wall mount though.


Do it!

I bought my mount for $100CAD and I'm in love!


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> good thing i have a super sturdy desk! I may still do a wall mount though.
> 
> 
> 
> Do it!
> 
> I bought my mount for $100CAD and I'm in love!
Click to expand...

$100???
i could get a 20" monitor for that much.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> $100???
> i could get a 20" monitor for that much.


^ A $20 stand is just good for me


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *phillyd*
> 
> $100???
> i could get a 20" monitor for that much.
> 
> 
> 
> ^ A $20 stand is just good for me
Click to expand...

I wouldnt spend more than 20ish.


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuperpower*
> 
> I actually quite like the stand.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> \_asuperpower_/


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> lol, you must be the only one.
> If I so much as moved my desk even a little bit by accident, mine would fall forward on me. Luckily I caught it both times.
> This was about the time I said to myself, time for a wall mount or a new stand....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Mine just wobbled something terrible. I had to use the stand for a few days until my other one came, and man, it was like an earthquake...lol


Hmm, seems like i'll need to invest in a stand.

Thanks guys!


----------



## Sapientia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Will this card run fine with it? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127685
> Doesn't seem to say DL-DVI on specs though, but looks like it has DL-DVI


Looks dual-link to me. If not you could always buy a DP to DVI adapter.


----------



## edo101

DO you need to have a paypal balance to pay for something from ebay like for BCC or does Paypal draw the money from your bank account if you linked your bank account to your paypal account?


----------



## 08G8V8

It will draw from your bank account.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Will this card run fine with it? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127685
> Doesn't seem to say DL-DVI on specs though, but looks like it has DL-DVI


It says dual link in the specs







It will work.

Anyhow... I have a problem. I found out that if I leave my monitor alone for 20 minutes after turning on my computer, it will keep on trying to turn on, flashing red and green LEDS then finally stop trying then flash green LED, then it will all of a sudden just work after a bit. My power bar flashes green when the monitor is trying to start but stays green when the monitor is flashing just green. LIKE *** DO I DO!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> It says dual link in the specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will work.
> Anyhow... I have a problem. I found out that if I leave my monitor alone for 20 minutes after turning on my computer, it will keep on trying to turn on, flashing red and green LEDS then finally stop trying then flash green LED, then it will all of a sudden just work after a bit. My power bar flashes green when the monitor is trying to start but stays green when the monitor is flashing just green. LIKE *** DO I DO!


Oh okay








Because on the EVGA it has: 2560 x 1600 (DL-DVI)
and on the MSI it has: 2560 x 1600

Just wanted to get that out of my mind


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> It says dual link in the specs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will work.
> Anyhow... I have a problem. I found out that if I leave my monitor alone for 20 minutes after turning on my computer, it will keep on trying to turn on, flashing red and green LEDS then finally stop trying then flash green LED, then it will all of a sudden just work after a bit. My power bar flashes green when the monitor is trying to start but stays green when the monitor is flashing just green. LIKE *** DO I DO!


Look down the thread for DVI power save (sleep) issues, you're using an Nvidia, no?


----------



## jmarsiglio

Yes, I am using gtx 670. Man, I tried the Dell DVI recover link you provided but it coud not connect to EDID and gave me errors. Sad Panda


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Oh okay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Because on the EVGA it has: 2560 x 1600 (DL-DVI)
> and on the MSI it has: 2560 x 1600
> Just wanted to get that out of my mind


I would hold off until people are 100% sure it will work. The 7970 lightning had a problem where it looked like it would be ok but the DVI ports don't support this type of monitor.


----------



## mva5580

I actually don't have a problem w/ the stand either.....I expected it to be god awful from what people say around here. But it works just fine on my desk, I see very little if any wobbling at all.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Yes, I am using gtx 670. Man, I tried the Dell DVI recover link you provided but it coud not connect to EDID and gave me errors. Sad Panda


Have you tried the DVI recover utility? (http://www.jeffgeiger.com/stuff/dvi_recover.htm for floppy verion and http://www.jeffgeiger.com/stuff/edid.htm for CD version).
Also, be certain you are using the latest drivers for your card.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> I would hold off until people are 100% sure it will work. The 7970 lightning had a problem where it looked like it would be ok but the DVI ports don't support this type of monitor.


Well on the 7970 Lightning it does say: DVI: SL-DVI-I / SL-DVI-D
And nothing about DL-DVI

Unless SL and DL are the same


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Well on the 7970 Lightning it does say: DVI: SL-DVI-I / SL-DVI-D
> And nothing about DL-DVI
> Unless SL and DL are the same


Originally on Newegg it said DL-DVI for the 7970 lightning and I was going to buy it. Then I saw reviews pop up saying it wasn't and they changed it. I wonder if you can even adjust the voltage on it like they say?


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Have you tried the DVI recover utility? (http://www.jeffgeiger.com/stuff/dvi_recover.htm for floppy verion and http://www.jeffgeiger.com/stuff/edid.htm for CD version).
> Also, be certain you are using the latest drivers for your card.


I have burned the DVI recover ISO onto a cd. Upon rebooting from cd-rom, it runs the commands but it says failure to connect to EDID and fatal error upon communication for both commands.

;(


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> I have burned the DVI recover ISO onto a cd. Upon rebooting from cd-rom, it runs the commands but it says failure to connect to EDID and fatal error upon communication for both commands.
> ;(


Well, carp! Disable display sleep through the nvidia control panel or OS for awhile and let's confirm that fixes it first.

Has anyone pulled EDID data off these displays? Mine was DOA so I never had the opportunity!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Originally on Newegg it said DL-DVI for the 7970 lightning and I was going to buy it. Then I saw reviews pop up saying it wasn't and they changed it. I wonder if you can even adjust the voltage on it like they say?


Eh.. I guess I'll try my luck, going to buy in a bit IF I decide to build my rig lol
Past MSI nVidia cards has Dl-DVI, so this should to


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Well, carp! Disable display sleep through the nvidia control panel or OS for awhile and let's confirm that fixes it first.
> Has anyone pulled EDID data off these displays? Mine was DOA so I never had the opportunity!


I disabled that and it didn't fix it







However, installing the beta drivers seemed to fix everything! It might have been because I did a 'clean install.' Whatever it is, I am a happy panda for the time being. I think trying to overclock this thing is when it started happening... naughty nvidia control panel!

Thanks again man for all your help (not just to me either) +REP


----------



## apositivebalanc

OOOKKKKK, i'm up and running. Got mine today from bigclothcraft and have to say he did a great job. I told him I don't mind waiting for a pixel perfect but he was still able to get it to me in less than a week.
The box had been opened and I could tell he checked it out. I had a problem using my own dvi cord, as soon as I plugged in the old one I was golden.
The one beef I had was DHL is incredibly slow at updating their tracking info. I checked the day before the package came and it said it was in South Korea. I come home from work and have a missed package notice from DHL! This was on Friday, I had to wait till today to pick it up from DHL.
Very excited to hook up my stand, the one it came with is pretty much useless.
It's funny because you here everybody complain about the stand and you think to yourself, nah, it can't be that bad... Then you get it and your monitor just wants to fall on your keyboard and break.
I have my xbox weighing it down right now, will have to install my new stand on Thursday.
Couldn't be happier with the purchase for now..


----------



## djriful

27" 1440p is getting mainstream now.... (must find 30" 1800p)...

I'm debating to sell my Apple Cinema 27" to get 3 Catleap. Maybe... =/
ACD is pixel perfect and color perfect... I'm sure if I have the Catleap side by side, I would say the Catleap will be a bit worse but the good side it has better Hz respond time than ACD for gaming.


----------



## phillyd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 27" 1440p is getting mainstream now.... (must find 30" 1800p)


shush hipster


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 27" 1440p is getting mainstream now.... (must find 30" 1800p)


'

1600p 30 inch is the next one.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> 27" 1440p is getting mainstream now.... (must find 30" 1800p)
> 
> 
> 
> '
> 
> 1600p 30 inch is the next one.
Click to expand...

U3011 dell has it.. I want beyond that.
http://accessories.us.dell.com/sna/productdetail.aspx?c=us&cs=04&l=en&sku=224-9949


----------



## PeNgUiN

Selling my Samsung 43" Plasma tomorrow and I can't seem to find information on buying a Catleap 2B from this site. I know there's a limited supply right now but where would I find info on finding out where the supply update and place to purchase it when it does?


----------



## Eldred

Just a warning for future potential buyers.. I recently bought one..

If you decided to use the VESA wallmounts (which I might add the onky way to get to them is to physically take the screen apart) this is the reply you will get:

Hello,

If the monitor have problem, Need to let us know and take proper warranty.

In this situation, the problem is you've disassembled item without any confirm or agree.

We cannot provide warranty for that. You should requested to us replacing or repair about the stand.

The link from you, - http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club# - is not our answer about stand.

The problem while in re-assemble causes, we cannot care.

Actually, every manufacturer and seller does same thing. Without any proper use, open the inside of body, ans re-assemble,

can be avoided from warranty.

We hope you can fully understand our situation.

Thank you.

This was the response from Green-sum

Needless to say the response enfuriated me. I understand that you are not supposed to open up an item which will void the warrnty, but then why have such an absolute stupid stand? If you push the monitor it actually wobbles on a stand fixed with two screws into a see-through perspex stand???? It also leans forward quite a lot..

My advice is rather save up for a better quality monitor with proper warranty than take a chance on this. Or check the monitor before you mount it. If it is DOA and mounted you are screwed...like me! I just didnt feel at all comfortable with that crappy stand and this IPS monitor leaning forward looking like it can fall over at any time.

I will esculate this at ebay customer protection.


----------



## p33k

Can't you put the stand back on?


----------



## Eldred

Yes I can but I doubt if a replacement will have a better stand.. I think its the same stand all round..


----------



## Eldred

The problem is that I took extra special care with lifting the bezel but doesnt matter how carefull you work it will still show slight marks as the plastic of the bezel is very soft. So it shows....


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> Just a warning for future potential buyers.. I recently bought one..
> If you decided to use the VESA wallmounts (which I might add the onky way to get to them is to physically take the screen apart) this is the reply you will get:
> Hello,
> If the monitor have problem, Need to let us know and take proper warranty.
> In this situation, the problem is you've disassembled item without any confirm or agree.
> We cannot provide warranty for that. You should requested to us replacing or repair about the stand.
> The link from you, - http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club# - is not our answer about stand.
> The problem while in re-assemble causes, we cannot care.
> Actually, every manufacturer and seller does same thing. Without any proper use, open the inside of body, ans re-assemble,
> can be avoided from warranty.
> We hope you can fully understand our situation.
> Thank you.
> This was the response from Green-sum
> Needless to say the response enfuriated me. I understand that you are not supposed to open up an item which will void the warrnty, but then why have such an absolute stupid stand? If you push the monitor it actually wobbles on a stand fixed with two screws into a see-through perspex stand???? It also leans forward quite a lot..
> My advice is rather save up for a better quality monitor with proper warranty than take a chance on this. Or check the monitor before you mount it. If it is DOA and mounted you are screwed...like me! I just didnt feel at all comfortable with that crappy stand and this IPS monitor leaning forward looking like it can fall over at any time.
> I will esculate this at ebay customer protection.


If you didn't test the monitor before you fitted the stand then how do you know it was DOA, you might have done the damage fitting the stand ?

I can tilt (forward/back) my monitor on the default stand that comes with it. I know the stand is not great at all, but I have a very solid table and don't feel the need to change it yet lol

There is clearly risks buying one of these monitors and sorry but I think the seller has the right to refuse warranty in this case.(opening up most electronics will void the warranty)

I know it is not what you want to hear, sorry.


----------



## Eldred

If you are going that route about voiding warranty when opening a product IT MUST be stated with a notification or sticker on the item like MOST reputable companies do... And no mine does not tilt at all..

I work with electronics every day and did not damage any part of the monitor... The only thing you can damage is the control board that is far away from the area being worked on..


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> If you are going that route about voiding warranty when opening a product IT MUST be stated with a notification or sticker on the item like MOST reputable companies do... And no mine does not tilt at all..
> I work with electronics every day and did not damage any part of the monitor... The only thing you can damage is the control board that is far away from the area being worked on..


Unless you check for DoA before you take it apart you're pretty much stuck with it after that. Why would you link him this thread?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> I disabled that and it didn't fix it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, installing the beta drivers seemed to fix everything! It might have been because I did a 'clean install.' Whatever it is, I am a happy panda for the time being. I think trying to overclock this thing is when it started happening... naughty nvidia control panel!
> Thanks again man for all your help (not just to me either) +REP


Glad you got it working! What rate did you manage to get it up to? Do you have the 2B multi?


----------



## horrorwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Unless you check for DoA before you take it apart you're pretty much stuck with it after that. Why would you link him this thread?


Not only that, why would you take it apart before testing it that would take all of 30 seconds?


----------



## braveblade

I sent the detailed pictures of my monitor's problems to green-sum last Friday. Right now it's 12:30am Wednesday but not a single reply. I think I'm screwed, spent $480 cad on nothing...


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> If you are going that route about voiding warranty when opening a product IT MUST be stated with a notification or sticker on the item like MOST reputable companies do... And no mine does not tilt at all..
> I work with electronics every day and did not damage any part of the monitor... The only thing you can damage is the control board that is far away from the area being worked on..


If you work with electronics every day then you have to know opening anything is going to void the warranty. Seriously - void. What manufacturer is going to honor a product that has been opened by the consumer? It's just common sense with or without a sticker on the item. Opening the monitor can damage several things actually if you have read this thread at all. People have been a tad crazy and pulled OSD board wiring out, DVI PCB wiring out, LED wiring, you name it someone has been a tad rough (or even extremely careful) and damaged every part that can be damaged trying to remove the arc, stand, etc. I support the seller and manufacturer here in every case - we open these at our own risk and if you do don't expect support from the seller or manufacturer just like any other product you buy (whether it be electronics or a child's toy.)


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I sent the detailed pictures of my monitor's problems to green-sum last Friday. Right now it's 12:30am Wednesday but not a single reply. I think I'm screwed, spent $480 cad on nothing...


They take forever to reply. Trying to get a monitor replacement from them is near impossible. I'm lucky mine magically started working again because even paypal dispute was asking me to pay hundreds of dollars to send it back for a refund.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I sent the detailed pictures of my monitor's problems to green-sum last Friday. Right now it's 12:30am Wednesday but not a single reply. I think I'm screwed, spent $480 cad on nothing...


Did you contact green-sum through eBay? If so, it is time to escalate-that may get their attention.

I heard from them overnight on my replacement, they said they would "test it before it shipped, to make sure." I did not ask for this, so we will see. I definitely know what an untested, factory-sealed unit is like, I will let everyone know if there's evidence of a pre-shipment inspection when it arrives.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Did you contact green-sum through eBay? If so, it is time to escalate-that may get their attention.


I tired both ebay and her personal gmail address. I requested her phone number from eBay. I will try to give her a call today. If I cannot reach her, I will create ebay/paypal dispute.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Did you contact green-sum through eBay? If so, it is time to escalate-that may get their attention.
> I heard from them overnight on my replacement, they said they would "test it before it shipped, to make sure." So we will see. I definitely know what and untested, factory-sealed unit is like, I will let everyone know if there's evidence of a pre-shipment inspection when it arrives.


There is risk involved though. They can send you a refurb unit instead of new one.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> There is risk involved though. They can send you a refurb unit instead of new one.


Definitely, you do not want to antagonize them (I think I came close with my persistence). I would dispute if I ended up with a refurb as that is not what I agreed to buy. I would advise confining your communication to within the eBay system, it makes it much easier later if you do end up in a dispute resolution situation.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> no mine does not tilt at all..


Here is my default stand.



Full tilt


----------



## arashed31

Hi all, first post here. I ordered a Catleap which arrived yesterday morning. I took it apart to see if I had an "overclockable" model but the results were inconclusive. The part numbers and revision numbers don't match any of those in the OP.

The version I ordered was a Q270 SE with perfect pixel option from green-sum.

LCD Center PCB -


LCD L/R PCB -


DVI PCB - Notice the circled components?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

One question - why did you take it apart to determine if it will OC? That seems extreme. You should have tried to OC it first - weird lines, red screens, blanks screens = no OC monitor. No need to open her up. The part numbers are going to be different since they are using a bit of a grab bag approach to these. So PCBs are being supplied during different times, by different batches, etc. Even the second generation OC monitor available elsewhere had different numbers.


----------



## arashed31

Hehe, well I also wanted to get rid of the stand and the plastic gray "handle" on the back. Regardless, my monitor doesn't have either of the cable types that a 2B or a 2C should have. The wires going to the LCD's PCB from the DVI board are even smaller than what I've seen on laptop LCDs.


----------



## omekone

I have had my monitor for a few months now and everything has been great up till this past week. Randomly the monitor will go into "sleep" mode and the power light will blink green on and off. Nothing I have tried will get it started again short of a full system reboot. The computer still runs fine and I can hear my games/moves playing still, just no video.

Any ideas?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *omekone*
> 
> I have had my monitor for a few months now and everything has been great up till this past week. Randomly the monitor will go into "sleep" mode and the power light will blink green on and off. Nothing I have tried will get it started again short of a full system reboot. The computer still runs fine and I can hear my games/moves playing still, just no video.
> Any ideas?


Who did you buy from?


----------



## Eldred

Lol yes everyone is an expert suddenly when it comes to electronics and warranty legality.. Whatever...point is its crap design and no one can argue that. Sorry im just used to dealing with quality stuff and i DO know that opening an electric item voids waranty ONLY if it is stated either via visual notification or in the manual...If YOU know anything about electronics and legality YOU should know THIS... If I had to open a case against them I would win hands down...seems hardly worth the effort since they can hardly speak English and I had to explain myself in 3 msgs..


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> Lol yes everyone is an expert suddenly when it comes to electronics and warranty legality.. Whatever...point is its crap design and no one can argue that. Sorry im just used to dealing with quality stuff and i DO know that opening an electric item voids waranty ONLY if it is stated either via visual notification or in the manual...If YOU know anything about electronics and legality YOU should know THIS... If I had to open a case against them I would win hands down...seems hardly worth the effort since they can hardly speak English and I had to explain myself in 3 msgs..


You might win, but you would have to pay hundreds of dollars to ship it back. It is crap design, but when you open it that voids the warranty.


----------



## Dontdropthesoap

anyone from the US buy one? and how much did customs charge for getting it in?


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dontdropthesoap*
> 
> anyone from the US buy one? and how much did customs charge for getting it in?


There's no customs fee because of some free trading arrangement between South Korea and USA.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> Just a warning for future potential buyers.. I recently bought one..
> 
> If you decided to use the VESA wallmounts (which I might add the onky way to get to them is to physically take the screen apart) this is the reply you will get:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> If the monitor have problem, Need to let us know and take proper warranty.
> 
> In this situation, the problem is you've disassembled item without any confirm or agree.
> 
> We cannot provide warranty for that. You should requested to us replacing or repair about the stand.
> 
> The link from you, - http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club# - is not our answer about stand.
> 
> The problem while in re-assemble causes, we cannot care.
> 
> Actually, every manufacturer and seller does same thing. Without any proper use, open the inside of body, ans re-assemble,
> 
> can be avoided from warranty.
> 
> We hope you can fully understand our situation.
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> This was the response from Green-sum
> 
> Needless to say the response enfuriated me. I understand that you are not supposed to open up an item which will void the warrnty, but then why have such an absolute stupid stand? If you push the monitor it actually wobbles on a stand fixed with two screws into a see-through perspex stand???? It also leans forward quite a lot..
> 
> My advice is rather save up for a better quality monitor with proper warranty than take a chance on this. Or check the monitor before you mount it. If it is DOA and mounted you are screwed...like me! I just didnt feel at all comfortable with that crappy stand and this IPS monitor leaning forward looking like it can fall over at any time.
> 
> I will esculate this at ebay customer protection.


First, any electronic opened the warranty is voided. I'm not sure why you show them you opened it but either way he can check if it was opened of not easily. Stupid stand you may ask to a $300 27" 1440p monitor... vs $1000 monitors (Apple Cinema / Dell U2711 / Dell U3011). That's the different, you get what you paid.


----------



## Waflsk8s

Hi guys,

I've read through a good bit of this thread and am thinking about getting one of these. However I had a couple questions:


My graphics card is a AMD 4800 Series (Forget which one exactly). It works well for now and is OCed a bit but since it is a bit old I was wondering if the card could handle this monitor as it's not listed on the compatible cards list.
What are the stats with receiving duds/defects/flaws/etc? Should I just pay extra to get a "perfect pixel" unit (from either Yamakasi or some of the other Korean brands)? If something is wrong we as the buyer have to pay shipping fees (which often are pretty high) back to get a new unit right?
What are the status of overclocking the refresh rate on the newer batch of monitors? I probably won't be planning on OCing it much or even soon (as like I said graphics card is a bit old) but would like to know if I have the option.

Thanks!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waflsk8s*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I've read through a good bit of this thread and am thinking about getting one of these. However I had a couple questions:
> 
> My graphics card is a AMD 4800 Series (Forget which one exactly). It works well for now and is OCed a bit but since it is a bit old I was wondering if the card could handle this monitor as it's not listed on the compatible cards list.
> What are the stats with receiving duds/defects/flaws/etc? Should I just pay extra to get a "perfect pixel" unit (from either Yamakasi or some of the other Korean brands)? If something is wrong we as the buyer have to pay shipping fees (which often are pretty high) back to get a new unit right?
> What are the status of overclocking the refresh rate on the newer batch of monitors? I probably won't be planning on OCing it much or even soon (as like I said graphics card is a bit old) but would like to know if I have the option.
> Thanks!


1. It will handle the monitor, but you won't be running max anything in games.

2. Percentage is still really low, less than 2% on DOAs, and about 3% on too many dead pixels (under 5 is considered a perfect panel and Korean law allows up to 15 before a panel is considered faulty.) Returns are sketchy and it looks like some sellers are better than others. When buying a $1000 monitor for $300 shipped to your door - warranty and service support are an afterthought. You are reading only those that have issues compared to the thousands of monitors that have been sold since January so it may seem like there are more problems than there actually are (however, return issues are the same across the board - it sucks if yours goes bad so factor that in.)

3. New batch? Any from ebay now will not be an OC model unless you purchase the LIMITED multi input model. OC versions of the standard will be available again elsewhere, just not ebay.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Waflsk8s*
> 
> Hi guys,
> I've read through a good bit of this thread and am thinking about getting one of these. However I had a couple questions:
> 
> My graphics card is a AMD 4800 Series (Forget which one exactly). It works well for now and is OCed a bit but since it is a bit old I was wondering if the card could handle this monitor as it's not listed on the compatible cards list.
> What are the stats with receiving duds/defects/flaws/etc? Should I just pay extra to get a "perfect pixel" unit (from either Yamakasi or some of the other Korean brands)? If something is wrong we as the buyer have to pay shipping fees (which often are pretty high) back to get a new unit right?
> What are the status of overclocking the refresh rate on the newer batch of monitors? I probably won't be planning on OCing it much or even soon (as like I said graphics card is a bit old) but would like to know if I have the option.
> Thanks!


1. You'll have to look at the ports at the back of your card. If it has one like the two on the right, you're good.

2. I got a perfect pixel and there was no defects. However people who got perfect pixel have also got defects. It's a debate, but I think the odds are better if you buy perfect pixel. The only way the seller will pay return shipping is if it's completely DOA. If it's a backlight defect etc. you'll have to pay shipping if you want a replacement.

3. You have next to 0 chances of getting an OCable monitor. However you will be able to buy an OCing PCB if things work out.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> 2. I got a perfect pixel and there was no defects. However people who got perfect pixel have also got defects. It's a debate, but I think the odds are better if you buy perfect pixel. The only way the seller will pay return shipping is if it's completely DOA. If it's a backlight defect etc. you'll have to pay shipping if you want a replacement.
> 3. You have next to 0 chances of getting an OCable monitor. However you will be able to buy an OCing PCB if things work out.


My thoughts -

2. Perfect pixel is not worth it - I have 4. 3 are perfect 1 has 1 dead pixel. There are three posts here lately where the person paid for the check and it clearly was not done. I would never pay extra for the check, but that's just me.

3. Not true. You can get an OC multi version today from ebay titled the LIMITED. Other OC models will be made available on another site that can be found by doing a google search.


----------



## Bigbrag

I had some really bad rattling in one of my three monitors when I would pick it up and move it. Something was definitely loose inside but the monitor worked great. I was debating whether or not it was worth taking it apart to have a look. My OCD eventually bugged me enough that I opened it up and found about 5 pieces of broken magnets that fit together into a circle. I freaked out for a minute and then realized that it is most likely a magnet from the back of a little speaker like the ones included in the speaker versions of the catleaps. I don't have speaker version catleaps but some how it worked its way into the monitor and bounced around and broke apart. The monitor still works great so, I'm not too concerned about it now, but it does show the kind of quality control you get with one of these monitors.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I had some really bad rattling in one of my three monitors when I would pick it up and move it. Something was definitely loose inside but the monitor worked great. I was debating whether or not it was worth taking it apart to have a look. My OCD eventually bugged me enough that I opened it up and found about 5 pieces of broken magnets that fit together into a circle. I freaked out for a minute and then realized that it is most likely a magnet from the back of a little speaker like the ones included in the speaker versions of the catleaps. I don't have speaker version catleaps but some how it worked its way into the monitor and bounced around and broke apart. The monitor still works great so, I'm not too concerned about it now, but it does show the kind of quality control you get with one of these monitors.


Did it look like this (see the little circle at the bottom of the pic)? If so, that is to the OSD and really not a concern that it broke. But you are right re: QC on these coming out of Korea.


----------



## Waflsk8s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> 1. It will handle the monitor, but you won't be running max anything in games.
> 2. Percentage is still really low, less than 2% on DOAs, and about 3% on too many dead pixels (under 5 is considered a perfect panel and Korean law allows up to 15 before a panel is considered faulty.) Returns are sketchy and it looks like some sellers are better than others. When buying a $1000 monitor for $300 shipped to your door - warranty and service support are an afterthought. You are reading only those that have issues compared to the thousands of monitors that have been sold since January so it may seem like there are more problems than there actually are (however, return issues are the same across the board - it sucks if yours goes bad so factor that in.)
> 3. New batch? Any from ebay now will not be an OC model unless you purchase the LIMITED multi input model. OC versions of the standard will be available again elsewhere, just not ebay.


Thanks guys for the quick reply!

I don't plan on running games at max (I can barely run High or Ultra now anyway). I want to at least be able to run SC2 on High (I'll probably get a new graphics card in not so near future). I probably wouldn't return the monitor for anything other than if it was DOA or majorly flawed. If I can't OC I guess that's okay (is going more than 60Hz really thaaaat big of a deal?)


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I had some really bad rattling in one of my three monitors when I would pick it up and move it. Something was definitely loose inside but the monitor worked great. I was debating whether or not it was worth taking it apart to have a look. My OCD eventually bugged me enough that I opened it up and found about 5 pieces of broken magnets that fit together into a circle. I freaked out for a minute and then realized that it is most likely a magnet from the back of a little speaker like the ones included in the speaker versions of the catleaps. I don't have speaker version catleaps but some how it worked its way into the monitor and bounced around and broke apart. The monitor still works great so, I'm not too concerned about it now, but it does show the kind of quality control you get with one of these monitors.


That's a ferrite core and it shields that cable from interference. You can buy (radio shack or the like) a replacement or likely find one in something you no longer need to replace it.


----------



## jsmoother2012

I'm not sure 1) is always correct. The 6800 cards at least, have two ports that look exactly the same, but only one is dual DVI. Having said that, the 4800 series had two dual DVI-I.


----------



## Waflsk8s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> I'm not sure 1) is always correct. The 6800 cards at least, have two ports that look exactly the same, but only one is dual DVI. Having said that, the 4800 series had two dual DVI-I.


Hmm I'll try to see if I can find the original box/manual somewhere.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> That's a ferrite core and it shields that cable from interference. You can buy (radio shack or the like) a replacement or likely find one in something you no longer need to replace it.


Rollover, do you have green-sum's phone number by any chance? The one listed on eBay doesn't make sense.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Rollover, do you have green-sum's phone number by any chance? The one listed on eBay doesn't make sense.


You are going to call Korea?


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> You are going to call Korea?


Yes I just did. 3 days no response I am desperate.

Here is a summary: Green-sum cannot speak English (so who's replying all of the emails???), so he asked his friend to help. His friend can speak some basic english, but it took him 5 minutes to correctly record my eBay ID... He promised that I will get an answer about my faulty monitor in the next few hours. I talked extremely slow but he had a hard time understanding what I was saying...


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Too funny - also Green-sum is not a person, but a company so I doubt they have many employees over there that can in fact speak English. Good luck!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Too funny - also Green-sum is not a person, but a company so I doubt they have many employees over there that can in fact speak English. Good luck!


So many people think its a person haha, I think about 7 total people in this thread thought it was a person xD


----------



## LiL WaYNe

I need some help here...

I bought my catleap q270 from green sum and it was DOA. I saw many people on this thread having DOA monitor during that period, and someone said green sum probably got a bad batch.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4620

This was a perfect pixel I bough so he was supposed to check it before shipping but factory seal logo was still intact, and I don't want to take any more risk, so I want a refund (he already received the DOA monitor). I sent him a message on paypal saying I'll escalate the dispute if he doesn't refund, but he hasn't responded yet. I saw another poster called CursiveQ getting a refund for a DOA monitor.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4610

Should I just escalate the dispute to paypal? This is my first time buying online ever so I don't know if escalating the dispute to paypal will cause additional trouble. Can someone give me some advice? I'm really mad at green sum not checking a perfect pixel before shipping and I just want my money back.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> I need some help here...
> I bought my catleap q270 from green sum and it was DOA. I saw many people on this thread having DOA monitor during that period, and someone said green sum probably got a bad batch.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4620
> This was a perfect pixel I bough so he was supposed to check it before shipping but factory seal logo was still intact, and I don't want to take any more risk, so I want a refund (he already received the DOA monitor). I sent him a message on paypal saying I'll escalate the dispute if he doesn't refund, but he hasn't responded yet. I saw another poster called CursiveQ getting a refund for a DOA monitor.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4610
> Should I just escalate the dispute to paypal? This is my first time buying online ever so I don't know if escalating the dispute to paypal will cause additional trouble. Can someone give me some advice? I'm really mad at green sum not checking a perfect pixel before shipping and I just want my money back.


If you have tracking showing the monitor is delivered back to Korea, I think you will win the dispute.

Also green-sum finally responded me:
"Hello,

We've got final confirm that monitor is defective.

Even exclude the pixels, the backlight bleeding seems to bad.

We'll set a DHL pick up.

Please contact Local DHL office and give this information. They will make schedule with you."

I will ask for a refund as well. Too mush risk.


----------



## Kimo

Update: I sent my Monitor back to BCC not too long ago. He received it yesterday. I sent him a message to see what's going on. BCC paid for shipping by the way.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Monitor is fine when in safe mode but reboots and has problems normally. Monitor driver problems!?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Monitor is fine when in safe mode but reboots and has problems normally. Monitor driver problems!?


The monitor is causing reboots? If the machine is fine in safe mode you have a driver issue.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> The monitor is causing reboots? If the machine is fine in safe mode you have a driver issue.


No, the monitor reboots









Anyway, how do I solve this issue?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> No, the monitor reboots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyway, how do I solve this issue?


What did you change right before it started?


----------



## jmarsiglio

I have no clue


----------



## psikeiro

Sorry for the noobish question but just bought one from BCC and I'm wondering if you guys could tell me what stand I could buy to replace the original one. I'll need a desk stand, wall mount is not an option. Thanks in advance.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> I have no clue


well, this is super off-topic since it has nothing to do with the monitor, but if you didn't install a new app or driver then something got corrupted. Have you run a chkdsk /r?
If you did something (or multiple things) and can't isolate or remember, then you want to configure for a "clean boot" then troubleshoot by adding things back in one at a time or in groups till the problem crops up again, rinse and repeat.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *psikeiro*
> 
> Sorry for the noobish question but just bought one from BCC and I'm wondering if you guys could tell me what stand I could buy to replace the original one. I'll need a desk stand, wall mount is not an option. Thanks in advance.


Anything that supports a 75mm VESA mount (try monoprice), but you will have to open your monitor and this *VOIDS THE WARRANTY*, even though there is no huge red warning label on the back that says so.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> Lol yes everyone is an expert suddenly when it comes to electronics and warranty legality.. Whatever...point is its crap design and no one can argue that. Sorry im just used to dealing with quality stuff and i DO know that opening an electric item voids waranty ONLY if it is stated either via visual notification or in the manual...If YOU know anything about electronics and legality YOU should know THIS... If I had to open a case against them I would win hands down...seems hardly worth the effort since they can hardly speak English and I had to explain myself in 3 msgs..


Funny thing is I am an attorney and it is common sense. Thinking that there must be a label for everything before you "know" you cannot do something has led us to such fantastic warnings like "don't iron clothes while wearing them" "blade is sharp" (on anything with a sharp blade), and on and on and on. You would lose a case against them hands down - alterations to an original item voids the warranty and in this case opening the bezel is NOT a normal usage for a monitor. Sucks you are having issues with your monitor though - I definitely empathize with you on that front (even though I completely disagree that you have to be told not to do something before liability attaches.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Monitor is fine when in safe mode but reboots and has problems normally. Monitor driver problems!?


Was this your first post? I didn't catch your previous post if you already provided more detail since I cannot help troubleshoot with more info. Shoot me a PM with that or if you haven't provided the necessary details please see the troubleshooting section in the OP and post those specifics here.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Anything that supports a 75mm VESA mount (try monoprice), but you will have to open your monitor and this *VOIDS THE WARRANTY*, even though there is no huge red warning label on the back that says so.


LOL! Love this response!







The VESA part is completely true though (well the whole post is true, just funny given the comments above.)


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> I need some help here...
> I bought my catleap q270 from green sum and it was DOA. I saw many people on this thread having DOA monitor during that period, and someone said green sum probably got a bad batch.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4620
> This was a perfect pixel I bough so he was supposed to check it before shipping but factory seal logo was still intact, and I don't want to take any more risk, so I want a refund (he already received the DOA monitor). I sent him a message on paypal saying I'll escalate the dispute if he doesn't refund, but he hasn't responded yet. I saw another poster called CursiveQ getting a refund for a DOA monitor.
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4610
> Should I just escalate the dispute to paypal? This is my first time buying online ever so I don't know if escalating the dispute to paypal will cause additional trouble. Can someone give me some advice? I'm really mad at green sum not checking a perfect pixel before shipping and I just want my money back.


I would escalate the dispute if you have already returned the monitor and given the seller plenty of time to check the unit and respond. I would wait 2-3 days MAX then start the paypal process. At the same time continue to send emails to the seller and be specific that you will not consider an exchange, new monitor, refurbished version, etc., but rather you want a full refund and state the exact amount you expect back.

Running the paypal process while talking with the seller will do no harm and may light a fire under the company's butt since they don't want to take a reputation hit.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> LOL! Love this response!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The VESA part is completely true though (well the whole post is true, just funny given the comments above.)


Didn't comment directly to the posts, but couldn't resist when this opportunity arose.


----------



## djriful

... I'm waiting for my local friends for a group purchase of 8 or more of these monitors...


----------



## unleaded91

Well so know I think my power brick is dead.

I unplugged it to start installing the monitor mount that I bought and after putting everything back together the monitor wont power on.
The power brick's green light does not light up. I only hear a chirp every couple of seconds.

Does anyone how to fix this problem?

I checked ebay for the one mentioned in the first post but there are only two sellers selling them and they both jacked up the prices.

Does anyone know any alternatives?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> If you have tracking showing the monitor is delivered back to Korea, I think you will win the dispute.
> Also green-sum finally responded me:
> "Hello,
> We've got final confirm that monitor is defective.
> Even exclude the pixels, the backlight bleeding seems to bad.
> We'll set a DHL pick up.
> Please contact Local DHL office and give this information. They will make schedule with you."
> I will ask for a refund as well. Too mush risk.


Now lets see if he actually comes through.


----------



## psikeiro

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Anything that supports a 75mm VESA mount (try monoprice), but you will have to open your monitor and this *VOIDS THE WARRANTY*, even though there is no huge red warning label on the back that says so.


thanks, man. I hope the stand is not as wobbly as described by a lot of people.


----------



## VandreadZero

I'm just wondering, will I get the benefit of overclocking the monitor to 100+hz if my primary use of the monitor is for editing photos and videos (not gaming)? Thanks


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VandreadZero*
> 
> I'm just wondering, will I get the benefit of overclocking the monitor to 100+hz if my primary use of the monitor is for editing photos and videos (not gaming)? Thanks


You'll notice an instant difference even with mouse movement and dragging windows. I don't know quite how videos work but I'd assume they'll look smoother as long as they're in a 100hz+ format?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VandreadZero*
> 
> I'm just wondering, will I get the benefit of overclocking the monitor to 100+hz if my primary use of the monitor is for editing photos and videos (not gaming)? Thanks


I would guess no but Im not a video editor, isnt video shot at 30fps? I saw smoother gameplay at 120hz even though I average 78fps on bf3, technically people say I should be averaging 120fps at 120hz but I still got smoother gameplay. That said MAYBE you might but I imagine the video your playing needs to be at least over 50fps


----------



## Sapientia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> You'll notice an instant difference even with mouse movement and dragging windows. I don't know quite how videos work but I'd assume they'll look smoother as long as they're in a 100hz+ format?


Videos wouldn't look any smoother unless they were shot in 60+fps


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Did it look like this (see the little circle at the bottom of the pic)? If so, that is to the OSD and really not a concern that it broke. But you are right re: QC on these coming out of Korea.


Yes it did look like that. That must have been what it was then. What exactly was it's purpose anyways?


----------



## Eldred

My brother managed to fix the monitorwith very fine electrical work.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> My brother managed to fix the monitorwith very fine electrical work.


sweet and you learned a valuable lesson


----------



## asuperpower

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> My brother managed to fix the monitorwith very fine electrical work.
> 
> 
> 
> sweet and you learned a valuable lesson
Click to expand...

ROFL
















\_asuperpower_/


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Eldred*
> 
> My brother managed to fix the monitorwith very fine electrical work.


Would you share what turned out to be wrong and what your brother did to effect repair?


----------



## 1rkrage

do you guys notice tearing with these IPS panels?

it seems i notice my camera movements more in BF3.

also Item text in diablo 3 seems to lag a bit unless i stand still.

_I may just be nitpicking and haven't noticed it with my previous samsung tn panel though.
_


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JKDC*
> 
> Nvidia Control Panel-->Change Resolution-->Customize-->Create Custom Resolution. Up the hz 1-2 notches at a time and hit Test. If the screen doesn't come on in 2-3 seconds hit escape and go down a notch. Find the highest you can go. Leave all the other settings as they are.


I am running AMD VISION Engine Control Center. I do not see any settings that allow me to adjust refresh rate. Any ideas?


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sleiyer2671*
> 
> Hi guys,
> First time poster here. Just got my catleap about a week ago from bigclothcraft and it's been fantastic! I ordered the q270se no class with no pixel checking and it came thru fine. No dead pixels. There are some backlight bleed on the lower right and upper right but they're only noticeable when it's a full black screen. Watching movies seems fine. The stand is wobbly as hell so last night i decided to go thru the stand removal and mount it to something else.
> My question to others who've done the same, what size of screws (diameter wise) did you guys use? I saw the post about not having screws longer than 1/2 inch cuz of the shorting issue. But i can't seem to find the right size screw to make the mount sit flush. Did you guys have screws that came with monitor? Reuse the ones that you took out for the stand?


I mounted one of my Catleaps last night and it doesn't sit flush with my mount either. I think the key is to drop in a split lock washer.


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I nicked up my bezel pretty bad from trying to pry it off. The only other thing you have to worry about is the connections, I lifted up the panel with the connections still in accidentally but it didn't snap off or anything. It's not too bad unless you get sweaty hands like me


I found using something wider than a screwdriver worked pretty well. Perhaps a putty knife ow a longer flat piece of metal. I personally used the stand for my soldering iron. I just found a place it separated(likely near a corner) and gently pried it apart as much as I could with my fingers. Then I inserted the flat metal and slid it until it didn't move any further. I slowly pushed toward the back of the bezel and typically the clip would pop. I would do this all the way around. One of the keys though is to aid the separation by applying constant separating pressure with your fingers if that makes any sense. In the end I do not have any discernible nicks in my bezel.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> I mounted one of my Catleaps last night and it doesn't sit flush with my mount either. I think the key is to drop in a split lock washer.


Also note guys! Be sure to use washers! If not the electrical current will short and damage the monitor!
Not sure if you guys already knew, but I want to refresh everyone's mind!


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Also note guys! Be sure to use washers! If not the electrical current will short and damage the monitor!
> Not sure if you guys already knew, but I want to refresh everyone's mind!


What type of washers do you recommend? I've never had to use any insulating washers with my TN panels. Those monitors mounted with a screw and a split lock washer and nothing else.


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *08G8V8*
> 
> I have 2 Potalions coming, but I am going to ask this question in the other Korean monitors threads, because there are far more folks with the Yamakai/Shimian/Crossover, to hopefully get an answer.
> Does anyone know why certain AMD graphics cards are stated as "not supported"? I have the HD5770, and I see folks have them working with these monitors. I will be running dual monitors. I don't think I've seen anybody state they have got dual 1440p monitors with the HD5770. The card has (2) dual DVI ports, so that shouldn't be an issue.
> Is the compatibility issue just being able to see the BIOS screen? Or is that issue common to all/most AMD cards?
> I am not a gamer, but I will probably put a few games on the machine. I don't want to dump a ton of money into a graphics card meant for gaming, when I don't need that type of card.
> So, incase I am unable to get my HD5770 to work with dual 1440p monitors, what is a reasonable powered/priced GPU that you would recommend?
> I don't want to derail this thread, so you can send me a PM if you have a suggestion that would fit my needs.
> But any info pertaining to the HD5770 or any of the other "not supported" GPUs would be good for others in my situation to see.
> Thanks!


If no one has answered this I can confirm that 2 Catleaps will run on a 5770 provided they are both hooked up to the dual link DVI posts. I haven't tried Eyefinity with them though. The PC is a secondary PC I am only using to "break-in" these monitors and look for defects.


----------



## Hamy144

Can anyone recommend a good stand for three of these preferably together and not three single stands
And preferably on the cheaper side
And of course in the uk


----------



## 08G8V8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> If no one has answered this I can confirm that 2 Catleaps will run on a 5770 provided they are both hooked up to the dual link DVI posts. I haven't tried Eyefinity with them though. The PC is a secondary PC I am only using to "break-in" these monitors and look for defects.


Thanks! I will eventually upgrade my HD5770, but waiting for the right deal to come along. So, as long as I can get by with this card for awhile is what I wanted to make sure of.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Is the monitor compatible with the 9800 gtx+?


----------



## arashed31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good stand for three of these preferably together and not three single stands
> And preferably on the cheaper side
> And of course in the uk


Try making your own if you can!








Hopefully this helps and

The largest triple monitor stand I could find cost $300 USD and had a 21" max size. Link for Reference.

I found a dual monitor stand that supports screens up to 30" and costs $180. Link for Reference.

PS: I don't endorse any of the linked items or NewEgg.

Also here is a tip for those with mid-range cards and concerned about performance: You only need Anti-Aliasing if you're playing on lower resolution screens as it forces the GPU to render your games at higher resolution to reduce jagged lines and whatnot. You have a 2560x1440 resolution monitor... turn your AA off and let your frame rates SOAR! This is especially relevant to ATI cards as their AA performance has lagged behind nVidia's for as long as I can remember.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Is the monitor compatible with the 9800 gtx+?


Yes it has dual link dvi.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Yes it has dual link dvi.


Awesome, I am going to buy one then for $40 because my 670 is being RMA'd...

Or should I get the gtx 260 for $50.

Is the $10 worth it even if I am only using it for 2 weeks or so.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Awesome, I am going to buy one then for $40 because my 670 is being RMA'd...
> Or should I get the gtx 260 for $50.
> Is the $10 worth it even if I am only using it for 2 weeks or so.


It depends on what games you want to play in those two weeks!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Awesome, I am going to buy one then for $40 because my 670 is being RMA'd...
> Or should I get the gtx 260 for $50.
> Is the $10 worth it even if I am only using it for 2 weeks or so.


I think it is worth it.

Could use it for physx when you get the 670 back from RMA


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I think it is worth it.
> Could use it for physx when you get the 670 back from RMA


My 2 PCie power plugs are in use







non-modular


----------



## Nitemare3219

Just got my monitor today. Ordered Monday night, got here Wednesday afternoon. All seems great (can't spot dead pixels so far), but the top line of pixels are going nuts. They flash and change colors depending on what is on the display. Anyone know why? I'm using the included cable until my other one arrives, so this could be it?

Video: http://s155.photobucket.com/albums/s303/Nitemare3219/?action=view&current=VID_20120620_155805.mp4

Edit 1: I noticed the issue is gone when I was testing for dead pixels (which I have none!







) on full color screens.

Edit 2: Also, it seems the pixels only shift when the pixels change at the very bottom of the screen from testing moving around windows.

Edit 3: After turning off the monitor for about 10 minutes and turning it back on, the problem is gone... weird lol.


----------



## gw280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> My 2 PCie power plugs are in use
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> non-modular


Most cards come with molex->PCIe power adaptors


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> Most cards come with molex->PCIe power adaptors


Oh wow awesome! I remember seeing those in the box and noticing 1 of the 4 pins missing on the molex. I hope that doesn't matter. Thanks!









EDIT: Judging from photos of these adapters, I gather this is normal... yay!

On another note, I just bought a new DVI cable so I will let people know who have problems with their monitor (restarting, blinking green + red LED, black screen) if that solves it for me


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Can anyone recommend a good stand for three of these preferably together and not three single stands
> And preferably on the cheaper side
> And of course in the uk


http://www.monitorsinmotion.com/products

http://integinternational.com/modular-monitor-arms/


----------



## arashed31

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Oh wow awesome! I remember seeing those in the box and noticing 1 of the 4 pins missing on the molex. I hope that doesn't matter. Thanks!


Nope you only need the 12v line connected (yellow wire on most PSUs).


----------



## jmarsiglio

New DVI cable didn't fix anything. I have a feeling it's the monitor drivers since it works in safe mode properly. ^.^
Can I disable generic PnP monitor in device manager or will that screw it up


----------



## Nitemare3219

Is there still an issue with keeping color calibration when in full screen games? I saw some posts about it on page 200~ish, and someone referenced a different thread (without actually linking it...) so I'm a bit lost.

Will I lose my color calibration profile when I launch a full screen application? If so, how do we correct this?


----------



## jmarsiglio

LOL.

You would expect a GPU or monitor driver to be causing my problems. At the very least a program that messes or interacts with the monitor. I used roll0ver's suggestion on using a clean boot, and found that it is flipping SKYPE causing my monitor to reboot after not performing any actions for a minute. I am very confused (but happy)









update: ***, nevermind it just happened again. It seems to be random then... T_T

disabling all startup programs seems to work.


----------



## geovas77

I ordered my tempered glass Catleap from green-sum yesterday requesting EMS transport and a 100 $ value indication and they have replied today with acknowledge plus a tracking code for shipping the monitor.

It took them less than 24 hours to actually ship it using korea post (EMS), hopefully it will arrive by monday my brand new 670 wants to stretch its legs from 1200p to 1440p gaming









Total amount charged by paypal was 290 Euros, considering that the U2711 (AG coating FTL) costs 650 Euro in local shops and provided that the Catleap I receive delivers on its promises it's one hell of a deal or a really disastrous investment if things don't go according to plan but It's worth the risk imo.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geovas77*
> 
> I ordered my tempered glass Catleap from green-sum yesterday requesting EMS transport and a 100 $ value indication and they have replied today with acknowledge plus a tracking code for shipping the monitor.
> It took them less than 24 hours to actually ship it using korea post (EMS), hopefully it will arrive by monday my brand new 670 wants to stretch its legs from 1200p to 1440p gaming
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Total amount charged by paypal was 290 Euros, considering that the U2711 (AG coating FTL) costs 650 Euro in local shops and provided that the Catleap I receive delivers on its promises it's one hell of a deal or a really disastrous investment if things don't go according to plan but It's worth the risk imo.


I think the odds lie in your favour, most people are happy with their's. The majority of people who post in the thread will be people having issues (like me!) so best of luck







.


----------



## rollOver

Finally got my replacement in, green-sum 'upgraded' me to a 'pixel-perfect' unit, but it does have one dead pixel. It is in the lower right area of the screen and doesn't light so it is always 'black.' Not the best outcome, but for the price I am totally willing to overlook it, and it is much better than my first unit with all dead pixels!









I did not see any evidence of a pre-shipment check except the inclusion of a "BYU2KOREA.COM(sic)" troubleshooting guide along with the manual that includes a request for feedback, so I don't think the factory put that in! The guide is actually in fairly good English and the part about properly orienting the power plug is genuinely helpful. The packaging is newer and I was sent a 2F unit this time so it must be from newer stock. The box was in much better condition this time though no additional packaging was added.

I left it at work running a pixel 'fixer' overnight, just in case it is just stuck and not a dead pixel. It will also be a good burn-in test before the weekend.


----------



## H8ff0000

Just thought I'd post my experience:

Ordered eBay item # 140729187593 from bigclothcraft on June 6th. Arrived June 12th.
Good communication.
I didn't order any sort of Perfect Pixel item or guarantee. Still got zero dead pixels!
Didn't come with a 110v brick. Did however come with an adapter, however I chose to just use a regular power cable I had laying around.
It's a 2D SKU. Overclocked to 67Hz.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Update: greensum just refunded me for my DOA monitor. So he paid for shipping back and refunded my money. I was getting worried yesterday seeing as he hasn't responded and was planning to escalate the dispute to PayPal, but decided to give it some more time. I've seen a few people in this thread getting worried about greensum not replying back; I guess he's probably busy most of the time.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> Update: greensum just refunded me for my DOA monitor. So he paid for shipping back and refunded my money. I was getting worried yesterday seeing as he hasn't responded and was planning to escalate the dispute to PayPal, but decided to give it some more time. I've seen a few people in this thread getting worried about greensum not replying back; I guess he's probably busy most of the time.


Their team is small and look at their orders (500+ units per month). I'm sure they are very busy to deal with every shipping and purchases lately.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> Update: greensum just refunded me for my DOA monitor. So he paid for shipping back and refunded my money. I was getting worried yesterday seeing as he hasn't responded and was planning to escalate the dispute to PayPal, but decided to give it some more time. I've seen a few people in this thread getting worried about greensum not replying back; I guess he's probably busy most of the time.


I'm thinking about opening a papal dispute right after I mail the faculty monitor back (without escalate of course), and state I want a refund in the dispute. Is it the right move?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Their team is small and look at their orders (500+ units per month). I'm sure they are very busy to deal with every shipping and purchases lately.


I agree, even with the long delays and such I have experienced, I was always responded to eventually. Don't think, at all, that they are trying to do anything shady. Just having difficulty keeping up with everyone's issues.


----------



## Radalict

I just got mine, got the $289 one, will post specifics later. First impression: awesome! But I still have to do all the set up stuff, haven't had time. Getting a bit of frame loss on D3 max settings occasionally, may need a second video card, my 2gb hd6950 might not cut it.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I'm thinking about opening a papal dispute right after I mail the faculty monitor back (without escalate of course), and state I want a refund in the dispute. Is it the right move?


yes. i opened a paypal dispute as soon as i found out the monitor was DOA. you should open one asap i heard from someone sellers normally don't care about ebay disputes, they only care about PayPal.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LiL WaYNe*
> 
> yes. i opened a paypal dispute as soon as i found out the monitor was DOA. you should open one asap i heard from someone sellers normally don't care about ebay disputes, they only care about PayPal.


Could you pm me the return address you used? Green-sum didn't tell me the return address. The only address I can find is the sender's address attached on the box.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Radalict*
> 
> I just got mine, got the $289 one, will post specifics later. First impression: awesome! But I still have to do all the set up stuff, haven't had time. Getting a bit of frame loss on D3 max settings occasionally, may need a second video card, my 2gb hd6950 might not cut it.


If you run at this resolution, yes. Hence why I had HD6970 Crossfired or now a GTX680.


----------



## ivran

Guys, I got some querstions. I just ordered a CatNip Q270 from Green-Sum for 280 doubloons and some free shipping. Firstly, I want to know if Greenie is a good bloke. Secondly, I currently have an AMD Radon HD 6850, and was planning on upgrading for this monitor (the 6850 runs all the games I play fine at 1080-peas, but I'm assuming it won't cut it for this doohickey. Any suggestions on a card I should get?


----------



## Kimo

Update: I sent my monitor back to BCC(he paid shipping)

He offered to either replace it or give me a full refund. I asked for a replacement. I really love this monitor and hopefully this 2nd unit is good. Should be shipped out soon.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivran*
> 
> Guys, I got some querstions. I just ordered a CatNip Q270 from Green-Sum for 280 doubloons and some free shipping. Firstly, I want to know if Greenie is a good bloke. Secondly, I currently have an AMD Radon HD 6850, and was planning on upgrading for this monitor (the 6850 runs all the games I play fine at 1080-peas, but I'm assuming it won't cut it for this doohickey. Any suggestions on a card I should get?


I got 2 Q270 from him. Arrived in about a week. Both looks great and have no stuck pixel and no noticeable dead pixel (like a few bunched together). I'm running them with a 7850 at the office (we do game once a week after work hours) and a 7870 at home. I don't play a lot of FPS so they will work fine for me.


----------



## Radalict

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> If you run at this resolution, yes. Hence why I had HD6970 Crossfired or now a GTX680.


I just picked up a second HD6950 so I'll install that when I get a chance and away we go







I'm not free till Sunday so that doesn't give me much of an opportunity.


----------



## rollOver

After the burn in, I realize that my 'dead' pixel is actually a pixel-sized black speck on the backlight diffuser. All the pixels are changing over it. Has anyone had luck getting an air nozzle in there to remove such?
Also, no backlight bleed or clouding, so if I can dislodge the debris I will be a very happy camper


----------



## Degree

Did anyone buy the SquareTrade Warranty?
Not sure if I should buy or not


----------



## Eldred

Does anyone know where I can get the PCB for a Catleap or compatible one. Please I am kind of desperate coz I am STILL struggling to get mine to work again. I will buy one please just tell me where and who to contact. The front actaul LG panel is still 100 percent and in perfect shape. Thanks.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Did anyone buy the SquareTrade Warranty?
> Not sure if I should buy or not


posters down the thread commented that SquareTrade wouldn't do any work since they are not legal in the US, they just paid out the value of the coverage. I would contact them before spending the money.


----------



## kablam0r

BBC = bigclothcraft right? They seem like the people to do business with?

thanks!


----------



## Dental Decks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kablam0r*
> 
> BBC = bigclothcraft right? They seem like the people to do business with?
> thanks!


Yup, bigclothcraft. Haven't read anything tremendously bad about that seller. He is one of the top sellers of these monitors.


----------



## Dennybrig

Guys, i have been lurking this owners club for a while and decided to pull the trigger with BCC for the Catleap.

Lets hope everything goes fine. I live in Mexico so i will tell you how it went! I just placed the order


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> posters down the thread commented that SquareTrade wouldn't do any work since they are not legal in the US, they just paid out the value of the coverage. I would contact them before spending the money.


Not true. It all depends on what you expect out of the Square Trade warranty. Is it going to protect you against dead or stuck pixels (if you do not buy a perfect pixel unit)? No. Now, is it going to protect you if the unit failed a few months/years down the road? Yes, They will either repair it or replace it (in this case I'm pretty sure it'll be a replace). So basically Square Trade will not help you on pixel claims but will help on the long term reliability issue.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Not true. It all depends on what you expect out of the Square Trade warranty. Is it going to protect you against dead or stuck pixels (if you do not buy a perfect pixel unit)? No. Now, is it going to protect you if the unit failed a few months/years down the road? Yes, They will either repair it or replace it (in this case I'm pretty sure it'll be a replace). So basically Square Trade will not help you on pixel claims but will help on the long term reliability issue.


Glad to hear it is not true, or are you saying that they did not say that down the thread? So are you saying you've had SquareTrade honor coverage? I have several items covered with them, so I am not trying to knock them just repeating what others reported here from their experience. What they say makes sense to me since these monitors (and their parts) are not for sale in the US officially. They have no FCC approval unless I have missed something.

Someone asked earlier about the Catleap under osx86, shows as "DVI" here:


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dental Decks*
> 
> Yup, bigclothcraft. Haven't read anything tremendously bad about that seller. He is one of the top sellers of these monitors.


He's a great seller from my experiences! Very quick with responses (as long as it's b/t 10AM-8PM local time in Korea) and the shipping was INSANELY quick. I placed the order Tuesday evening (EST) and the product arrived Friday morning (EST). I ordered a perfect pixel Potalion and it came in perfect condition (save for some minor backlight bleeding which is pretty much expected with an IPS panel) with no dead/stuck/bright/dark/etc. pixels. I am (so far) very happy with the purchase! I do have the option of buying SquareTrade warranty (I've talked to them and they said I'm covered for $49.99 for 3 years) in the next 30 days...I'm still debating on that!


----------



## Wiz33

I got my Q270 from Green Sum and I got my Crossover 2720MDP pivot from BCC not problem with either one of them.


----------



## mikeseth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> He's a great seller from my experiences! Very quick with responses (as long as it's b/t 10AM-8PM local time in Korea) and the shipping was INSANELY quick. I placed the order Tuesday evening (EST) and the product arrived Friday morning (EST). I ordered a perfect pixel Potalion and it came in perfect condition (save for some minor backlight bleeding which is pretty much expected with an IPS panel) with no dead/stuck/bright/dark/etc. pixels. I am (so far) very happy with the purchase! I do have the option of buying SquareTrade warranty (I've talked to them and they said I'm covered for $49.99 for 3 years) in the next 30 days...I'm still debating on that!


Have you tried it with your MacBook Pro? How does it look... awesome?









Please let me know as I need to get a monitor for my Air...


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeseth*
> 
> Have you tried it with your MacBook Pro? How does it look... awesome?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please let me know as I need to get a monitor for my Air...


Nope not yet! I haven't gotten the adapter yet (I plan on getting it this weekend). I will let you know as soon as I know!

Btw, is this an insane amount of backlight bleeding? It's pretty uneven (I can see that), but I'm not too familiar with IPS displays so IDK if this is really bad backlight bleeding or not.


----------



## LC155

That's pretty bad bleeding. Massage the panel around where the bleed occurs - you might get rid of it.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

What is that bright white spot near the bottom left corner?


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> That's pretty bad bleeding. Massage the panel around where the bleed occurs - you might get rid of it.


Awww shucks :/
And thanks for the suggestion, I will try it!







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> What is that bright white spot near the bottom left corner?


Nothing probably a reflection from my camera or something b/c it's not there in person.


----------



## Dental Decks

I'm a avid techbargains.com visitor and for some reason they finally decided to put up the Catleap now. " eBay (via Green Sum) has this impressive Yamasaki Catleap Q270 27" 2560x1440 IPS LED LCD Monitor for a low $289.99 Free Shipping. "

Also, they especially mention green-sum perhaps because he might be the only one with the lowest price tag at the time. Interesting........


----------



## 08G8V8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> He's a great seller from my experiences! Very quick with responses (as long as it's b/t 10AM-8PM local time in Korea) and the shipping was INSANELY quick. I placed the order Tuesday evening (EST) and the product arrived Friday morning (EST). I ordered a perfect pixel Potalion and it came in perfect condition (save for some minor backlight bleeding which is pretty much expected with an IPS panel) with no dead/stuck/bright/dark/etc. pixels. I am (so far) very happy with the purchase! I do have the option of buying SquareTrade warranty (I've talked to them and they said I'm covered for $49.99 for 3 years) in the next 30 days...I'm still debating on that!


I see all these insanely fast shipping times from BCC, so I assumed ordering my (2) Potalions on Sunday they surely would have been here by today. I have had a tracking number for 3 days and the number still doesn't register with DHL. I am in Seattle. Really wished they would have been here by the weekend. I've seen 2 folks state they ordered on Tuesday and get their orders on Thursday/Friday.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *08G8V8*
> 
> I see all these insanely fast shipping times from BCC, so I assumed ordering my (2) Potalions on Sunday they surely would have been here by today. I have had a tracking number for 3 days and the number still doesn't register with DHL. I am in Seattle. Really wished they would have been here by the weekend. I've seen 2 folks state they ordered on Tuesday and get their orders on Thursday/Friday.


Have you been in contact with BCC since you paid for the monitors? , he sends you an email with 4 questions in it ( will he mark it as Gift, how much to mark it as, shipping address), I don't think he will post them until you have replied.


----------



## Radalict

Having a drama with my monitor already. I posted in a dif thread but I'll post here too.

I rebooted my pc for whatever reason, and when it attempted to boot back up the monitor display cuts out once windows signs in. I think it's to do with resolutions, but I can still start the pc in safe mode and the monitor works fine.

Does anybody know what the problem is, and how to fix it? I would search but 500 pages will be difficult to find.


----------



## Radalict

I figured out the issue, it was that program to force the refresh rate. I put in the 81 without doing anything else, and it was preventing the display. Changed it back to 60 and it's fine now.


----------



## Dental Decks

Did anyone place side monitors flanking the Catleap? or know of any that can be placed in portrait mode and preferably align with the center Catleap edge to edge? like the 30" does with two side 20"s


----------



## mxgt

2 weeks later:



lol. time to send back I guess. don't think I'm going to bother again.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Oh wow, first time I've ever seen something like this.

Are those monitors really that unreliable?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Oh wow, first time I've ever seen something like this.
> Are those monitors really that unreliable?


That's kind of why I paid the AW premium in the first place... at least I know they've got my back should this kind of crap happen.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxgt*
> 
> 2 weeks later:
> 
> lol. time to send back I guess. don't think I'm going to bother again.


What exactly is happening. One day only red? White appears OK, so what's going on?


----------



## cybercussion

I've read thru most the posts but I'm trying to figure out if you need a DVI-D video card, and if so, is there one that has 2 DVI-D connections so you can run 2 monitors? Or do I need 2 video cards?

Thanks,
Mark


----------



## Gainder

Hello everyone,
I bought this monitor about 2 weeks ago and since then I have never seen a single image on it.
Mine is a Q270SE2F brought from green-sum, before I read of many DOA cases coming from him recently.
I got the flashing green light (on the monitor) issue.
I have tried to plug (in every port) it to an ATI HD 4850 first and then to ATI HD 6870 this.
I tried to reinstall the drivers.
I tried a new dvi-d cable this
I haven't tried to open it because I don't want to lose the warranty.
I think it's a DOA case, but if you have any suggestions I could try I will be much appreciated.

Thank you!


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> I've read thru most the posts but I'm trying to figure out if you need a DVI-D video card, and if so, is there one that has 2 DVI-D connections so you can run 2 monitors? Or do I need 2 video cards?
> Thanks,
> Mark


You need a dual link DVI-D or DVI-I, not just a DVI-D or I. Single link = no go.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I bought this monitor about 2 weeks ago and since then I have never seen a single image on it.
> Mine is a Q270SE2F brought from green-sum, before I read of many DOA cases coming from him recently.
> I got the flashing green light issue.
> I have tried to plug (in every port) it to an ATI HD 4850 first and then to ATI HD 6870 this.
> I tried to reinstall the drivers.
> I tried a new dvi-d cable this
> I haven't tried to open it because I don't want to lose the warranty.
> I think it's a DOA case, but if you have any suggestions I could try I will be much appreciated.
> Thank you!


Is the flashing green on the power brick or the monitor?


----------



## cybercussion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> You need a dual link DVI-D or DVI-I, not just a DVI-D or I. Single link = no go.


Cool, thanks for clear that up. I figured maybe that line without the 4 pins around it was smaller than the DVI-D or something. Long as the video card can push 2560x1440 sounds like this works. I'll just hope for no dead pixels now.

Thanks!


----------



## 1rkrage

damn these 1440p monitors drop some of my games below 40 fps. don't know how long I could wait until I can crossfire these badboys


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Is the flashing green on the power brick or the monitor?


thank you for your interest.
The flashing green is the one of the monitor, the one on the power brick is green and not flashing.
I have installed latest AMD driver.
I have read that AMD cards have problem with catleap but I have found owner of 4850 and 6870 that are running it successfully.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> thank you for your interest.
> The flashing green is the one of the monitor, the one on the power brick is green and not flashing.
> I have installed latest AMD driver.
> I have read that AMD cards have problem with catleap but I have found owner of 4850 and 6870 that are running it successfully.


Have you used either card successfully with another monitor? The flashing indicates the monitor is not getting a signal. My monitor is blinking right now because the computer is not sending it a signal. *Do not open* the monitor, did you try the cable that came with the monitor? Have you contacted green-sum?


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Have you used either card successfully with another monitor? The flashing indicates the monitor is not getting a signal. My monitor is blinking right now because the computer is not sending it a signal.


Maybe he has a bad DVI-D cable?


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Have you used either card successfully with another monitor? The flashing indicates the monitor is not getting a signal. My monitor is blinking right now because the computer is not sending it a signal. *Do not open* the monitor, did you try the cable that came with the monitor? Have you contacted green-sum?


Yes the cards are working with other monitors.
I brought a new dvi-d cable from amazon, link is here

I am waiting for a reply from green-sum.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> Yes the cards are working with other monitors.
> I brought a new dvi-d cable from amazon, link is here
> I am waiting for a reply from green-sum.


Just a small suggestion. The 6870 has one dual link DVI and one single link DVI port. Did you try the monitor on both ports? The one inline with the displayports is the dual link one.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> Yes the cards are working with other monitors.
> I brought a new dvi-d cable from amazon, link is here
> I am waiting for a reply from green-sum.


Just a small suggestion. The 6870 has one dual link DVI and one single link DVI port. Did you try the monitor on both ports? The one inline with the displayports is the dual link one.


----------



## SidEvolution

Hey guys,

I recently bought a Catleap Q270 SE and I've been trying to get it to work on my laptop for some time. Originally I plugged it in and it gave me an immediate BSOD error - "Bad pool header". I thought of the many reg-edits as well as other customization I did with my OS so I have re-installed my OS and just did all of the updates / driver-installation. I know that the monitor only had a DVi-D dual link port which was fine since I acquired a 'high-speed hdmi cable' that is suppose to support up to 1440p. I connected this an adapter for dvi-d dual link and it proceeded to recognize it and not crash immediately. It simply keeps a green-flashing light.

My laptop is a Asus K53SV with i5-2410 (I believe). Intel HD graphics 3000 and nvidia geforce gt 540m, both of which claim to support 1440p (up to 1600p actually). I have done a complete clean install with my drivers. I will be doing another clean install momentarily since I was able to do 'Show screen on second display" as well as "extend displays' options before one of the drivers was installed and now it does not allow me to do either. It states: "Unable to save settings".

I have tested the monitor out with the DVI-D cable it came with on a crappier desktop in my basement. It is pixel perfect and works well. I do not have a desktop that has hdmi ports on it so i cannot test, yet, whether the HDMi cable - adapter set-up is currently at fault.

I wanted to know if there were any drivers you could manually download for these monitors and/or if anyone else has experienced something similar / tried it on a laptop with hdmi. I won't be building my desktop until the end of the summer so I am a tad bummed that I cannot use my monitor yet. D:


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SidEvolution*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I recently bought a Catleap Q270 SE and I've been trying to get it to work on my laptop for some time. Originally I plugged it in and it gave me an immediate BSOD error - "Bad pool header". I thought of the many reg-edits as well as other customization I did with my OS so I have re-installed my OS and just did all of the updates / driver-installation. I know that the monitor only had a DVi-D dual link port which was fine since I acquired a 'high-speed hdmi cable' that is suppose to support up to 1440p. I connected this an adapter for dvi-d dual link and it proceeded to recognize it and not crash immediately. It simply keeps a green-flashing light.
> My laptop is a Asus K53SV with i5-2410 (I believe). Intel HD graphics 3000 and nvidia geforce gt 540m, both of which claim to support 1440p (up to 1600p actually). I have done a complete clean install with my drivers. I will be doing another clean install momentarily since I was able to do 'Show screen on second display" as well as "extend displays' options before one of the drivers was installed and now it does not allow me to do either. It states: "Unable to save settings".
> I have tested the monitor out with the DVI-D cable it came with on a crappier desktop in my basement. It is pixel perfect and works well. I do not have a desktop that has hdmi ports on it so i cannot test, yet, whether the HDMi cable - adapter set-up is currently at fault.
> I wanted to know if there were any drivers you could manually download for these monitors and/or if anyone else has experienced something similar / tried it on a laptop with hdmi. I won't be building my desktop until the end of the summer so I am a tad bummed that I cannot use my monitor yet. D:


Most HDMI adapters are actually one-way DVI to HDMI, not the other way round, do you have an active adapter with its own power and signal amp?


----------



## SidEvolution

Quote:


> Most HDMI adapters are actually one-way DVI to HDMI, not the other way round, do you have an active adapter with its own power and signal amp?


Hmmm, I do not. I am ashamed to say that didn't cross my mind. Any recommendations?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SidEvolution*
> 
> Hmmm, I do not. I am ashamed to say that didn't cross my mind. Any recommendations?


Kramer Electronics would be the best bet, it will probably cost more than your laptop though, so not ideal for temporary use. You didn't get a multi-input Catleap?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxgt*
> 
> 2 weeks later:
> 
> lol. time to send back I guess. don't think I'm going to bother again.


You can see other colors in there. Is the background always red?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SidEvolution*
> 
> Hmmm, I do not. I am ashamed to say that didn't cross my mind. Any recommendations?


Do a google search or search this thread - tons of people are using an active link for theirs. I don't feel like pulling it up at the moment - but it runs about $100 I believe.


----------



## pilla99

I have two Catleap's coming that should be here early next week. Reading through posts on this thread are making me scared. I hope these just work out of the box without issue.
I guess even if there is an issue, the price is so unbeatable you can't complain. I would rather have hassle and pay 319 everyday than have a perfect experience that cost 1000 dollars.

My poor tower has no GPU's or monitors. Poor baby. ship ship ship ship ship


----------



## Degree

Hopefully I get mine Monday or Tuesday.

Been on this: On forwarding status update
Jun-21-12, 12:55 PM

Guessing they don't deliver on Saturdays/Sundays


----------



## mxgt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> You can see other colors in there. Is the background always red?


No, this just started happening yesterday.

My other monitor displays absolutely fine so I am 100% sure it's a monitor problem.


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> Just a small suggestion. The 6870 has one dual link DVI and one single link DVI port. Did you try the monitor on both ports? The one inline with the displayports is the dual link one.


Yes, I tried both ports.
green-sum answered my by saying that my vga is not compatible,
but actually is reported here as compatible.
Does anyone have problem with an ati 6870?


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> Yes, I tried both ports.
> green-sum answered my by saying that my vga is not compatible,
> but actually is reported here as compatible.
> Does anyone have problem with an ati 6870?


That is scary as I expect a Shimian any day now and I'll be using a MSI 6870. Several people are getting it to work with a 6870 however. Keep us updated.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilla99*
> 
> I have two Catleap's coming that should be here early next week. Reading through posts on this thread are making me scared. I hope these just work out of the box without issue.
> I guess even if there is an issue, the price is so unbeatable you can't complain. I would rather have hassle and pay 319 everyday than have a perfect experience that cost 1000 dollars.
> My poor tower has no GPU's or monitors. Poor baby. ship ship ship ship ship


Even if I pay $300 for $700-1000 monitor (well, panel), I wouldn't like the hassle of sending it back to South Korea after just few months of use and paying who knows how much for shipping.


----------



## mikeseth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Even if I pay $300 for $700-1000 monitor (well, panel), I wouldn't like the hassle of sending it back to South Korea after just few months of use and paying who knows how much for shipping.


And that is why you get SquareTrade warranty for like $50 and if anything.... then they'll just refund you the purchase price.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeseth*
> 
> And that is why you get SquareTrade warranty for like $50 and if anything.... then they'll just refund you the purchase price.


Still debating to get it or not...


----------



## hrockh

looks like no one has posted it yet.. so:

now ta_planet are selling the 2B version (120Hz) on ebay.. £340 ($529.99) though is a bit expensive..
EDIT:
*link removed due to TOS* search on ebay for "★★★ 120Hz Overclock ★★★ Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Multi 2560x1440 WQHD S-IPS Monitor"


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

No one posted because eBay links are against the TOS here. Also this is not a 120 panel really. This is a multi that some have purchased and reported on 120hz to not hit 125hz as advertised. Check it out for yourself. Buyer beware with this panel for sure.


----------



## Rayleyne

I did it, I pulled the plug and ordered one, Let's hope my 7970 crossfire is up to the task of 1440p @ 85+ Hz


----------



## hrockh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> No one posted because eBay links are against the TOS here. Also this is not a 120 panel really. This is a multi that some have purchased and reported on 120hz to not hit 125hz as advertised. Check it out for yourself. Buyer beware with this panel for sure.


if I understand correctly users reported a working 120Hz, which is what it is advertised. On the description it mentions UP TO 125Hz with NVidia cards.
IMO if you hit 120Hz you should be satisfied.. only few golden ones could hit 125Hz.

would like to read some feedback for this panel


----------



## subyman

I ordered from green-sum today. Hopefully it gets here before the ebay estimated delivery time as it goes out as far as July 11th. From what I've read, it takes around a week. Not bad.

I have a quick question though. Two computers will be sharing this monitor. I have my gaming PC and my MBP that I work on. I bought the active mini-dp to DL-DVI connector with USB power to connect the MBP. My issue is that the catleap only has one DLDVI input. I'd hate to have to pull cables every time I changed computers. Is there a non-powered DL-DVI toggle that I can buy, kind of like the USB switches? Two inputs go in and one output goes out to the monitor, switch the toggle to go back and forth between the signals. I don't need a pricey KVM setup.

Thanks.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> That is scary as I expect a Shimian any day now and I'll be using a MSI 6870. Several people are getting it to work with a 6870 however. Keep us updated.


I'm running this perfectly off a 6870 (XFX Black Edition). I can even get into my UEFI BIOS (Asus P8P67 Pro BIOS 3207 x64).

















Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Still debating to get it or not...


Dude, same here lol. At least I got like around 25 more days to decide on whether or not I want to fork out $50 for the 3 year warranty. I'm leaning on it though..wbu?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> I ordered from green-sum today. Hopefully it gets here before the ebay estimated delivery time as it goes out as far as July 11th. From what I've read, it takes around a week. Not bad.
> I have a quick question though. Two computers will be sharing this monitor. I have my gaming PC and my MBP that I work on. I bought the active mini-dp to DL-DVI connector with USB power to connect the MBP. My issue is that the catleap only has one DLDVI input. I'd hate to have to pull cables every time I changed computers. Is there a non-powered DL-DVI toggle that I can buy, kind of like the USB switches? Two inputs go in and one output goes out to the monitor, switch the toggle to go back and forth between the signals. I don't need a pricey KVM setup.
> Thanks.


Same problem here. So far I haven't found a solution yet.








BTW, which adapter did you buy? I'm deciding on whether or not I should just fork out an extra $30 and get the "official" Apple branded one or get the cheaper Monoprice one.


----------



## mikeseth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> Same problem here. So far I haven't found a solution yet.


You can get one of these... DVI Switch. Allows you to connect the monitor into it, and then two cables that go to different computers. Just hit the button to switch between which device you want to show on the screen. On eBay for ~$20, just search "DVI Switch". Also, both the Apple and Monoprice adapters have mixed reviews, might as well get the Apple one IF it has 1 year warranty on the adapter. (Since it's active, could fry itself, never know...)


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> Dude, same here lol. At least I got like around 25 more days to decide on whether or not I want to fork out $50 for the 3 year warranty. I'm leaning on it though..wbu?


Still don't know X.X
Don't have the monitor yet though, should have it monday or tuesday.


----------



## Rulerof52

Hi everybody,

I am looking into getting one of these monitors, and i had a few questions before i seal the deal...

Is it possible to use a DVI-D to HDMI converter and run this from a laptop? I have a fairly powerful HP DV6T that ran both a 1080p screen and a 1080p external just fine.
Would you buy from Green-sum? Would you get the $50 insurance?
Anyone know anything about the longevity of these?

Thanks much,
Rulerof52


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> Dude, same here lol. At least I got like around 25 more days to decide on whether or not I want to fork out $50 for the 3 year warranty. I'm leaning on it though..wbu?
> Same problem here. So far I haven't found a solution yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, which adapter did you buy? I'm deciding on whether or not I should just fork out an extra $30 and get the "official" Apple branded one or get the cheaper Monoprice one.


I got one on ebay that was recommended at slickdeals. I can't link it, but the item number is: 290720649525. It is 55 shipped, a bit cheaper than monoprice. Monoprice always takes a week or more to deliver to me, so I am trying these guys instead. The adapter looks identical to the monoprice one.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rulerof52*
> 
> Hi everybody,
> I am looking into getting one of these monitors, and i had a few questions before i seal the deal...
> Is it possible to use a DVI-D to HDMI converter and run this from a laptop? I have a fairly powerful HP DV6T that ran both a 1080p screen and a 1080p external just fine.
> Would you buy from Green-sum? Would you get the $50 insurance?
> Anyone know anything about the longevity of these?
> Thanks much,
> Rulerof52


The rub with these monitors is unless you get the 450+ dollar one, the monitor will only display its native resolution. In other words, they do not have an internal scaler. The ones with HDMI only work at a scaled resolution of 1080p. HDMI (with the exception of the newer versions) do not support really high resolutions or refresh rates. If you *could* get the HDMI to work through a Dual Link DVI adapter, it would most likely be locked at ~48hz or such.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikeseth*
> 
> You can get one of these... DVI Switch. Allows you to connect the monitor into it, and then two cables that go to different computers. Just hit the button to switch between which device you want to show on the screen. On eBay for ~$20, just search "DVI Switch". Also, both the Apple and Monoprice adapters have mixed reviews, might as well get the Apple one IF it has 1 year warranty on the adapter. (Since it's active, could fry itself, never know...)


Max resolution on that is only 1600x1200. Looks like it isn't true DL-DVI capable even though the adapters look to be.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> I got one on ebay that was recommended at slickdeals. I can't link it, but the item number is: 290720649525. It is 55 shipped, a bit cheaper than monoprice. Monoprice always takes a week or more to deliver to me, so I am trying these guys instead. The adapter looks identical to the monoprice one.
> The rub with these monitors is unless you get the 450+ dollar one, the monitor will only display its native resolution. In other words, they do not have an internal scaler. The ones with HDMI only work at a scaled resolution of 1080p. HDMI (with the exception of the newer versions) do not support really high resolutions or refresh rates. If you *could* get the HDMI to work through a Dual Link DVI adapter, it would most likely be locked at ~48hz or such.


Thanks for I'll get that instead! But, just to be safe, has anyone confirmed it to be working with the Macs (Air/Pro)?


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> I'm running this perfectly off a 6870 (XFX Black Edition). I can even get into my UEFI BIOS (Asus P8P67 Pro BIOS 3207 x64).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, same here lol. At least I got like around 25 more days to decide on whether or not I want to fork out $50 for the 3 year warranty. I'm leaning on it though..wbu?
> Same problem here. So far I haven't found a solution yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, which adapter did you buy? I'm deciding on whether or not I should just fork out an extra $30 and get the "official" Apple branded one or get the cheaper Monoprice one.


How are games with the 6870? I have the same gpu and want to know if it can play bf3 at high settings with no AA and stuff.


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> How are games with the 6870? I have the same gpu and want to know if it can play bf3 at high settings with no AA and stuff.


At 1440p? Not sure...I don't have BF3 to test so I can't answer that for you. Sorries!







Perhaps someone else could assist you?


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> At 1440p? Not sure...I don't have BF3 to test so I can't answer that for you. Sorries!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Perhaps someone else could assist you?


No worries. I will be getting a 7950 soon so i am sure that will more than do it. Do you know if crossfire will work on these monitors?


----------



## Aznboy1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> No worries. I will be getting a 7950 soon so i am sure that will more than do it. Do you know if crossfire will work on these monitors?


I don't see why not?


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> I don't see why not?


i saw some people were having problems with sli and crossfire. Not sure if that was something in the past.


----------



## Mattbag

How good do the cat leaps look if you run them at 1080p I've been worried my cards won't run games very well at 1440 and its gonna be a while before I can afford new gpus but I need a new monitor now?


----------



## Lt.AldoRaine

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattbag*
> 
> How good do the cat leaps look if you run them at 1080p I've been worried my cards won't run games very well at 1440 and its gonna be a while before I can afford new gpus but I need a new monitor now?


I think your gpus will run that resolution fine, as long as you don't expect to get 120hz or max settings out of them.


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lt.AldoRaine*
> 
> I think your gpus will run that resolution fine, as long as you don't expect to get 120hz or max settings out of them.


I just hope I won't have to turn my settings down much I would just assume high settings with no AA will still give me atleast 60 fraps


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattbag*
> 
> How good do the cat leaps look if you run them at 1080p I've been worried my cards won't run games very well at 1440 and its gonna be a while before I can afford new gpus but I need a new monitor now?


what gpu are u running?


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> what gpu are u running?


2 overclocked 1gb 460s they run very very well at 1080p but I'm sure they won't be so great with double the pixels


----------



## Dirtyworks

My monitor should _finally_ be in by Tuesday. Because of where I am, its being held with DHL for what seems like an eternity (5-6 business days). There is no postal service, other than Canada Post, where I am.

What DHL has to do is forward it to Canadian North, on Monday. Then Canadian North has to forward it to Calm Air. Hopefully there are no extra fee's









EDIT: I also hope he checked the monitor, as I paid for "Perfect Pixel". I can't imagine how much trouble and expensive it'll be for me to send it back to green-sum..

EDIT 2: If all goes better than expected, then it'll be nice to actually be able to push my GPU's


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> My monitor should _finally_ be in by Tuesday. Because of where I am, its being held with DHL for what seems like an eternity (5-6 business days). There is no postal service, other than Canada Post, where I am.
> What DHL has to do is forward it to Canadian North, on Monday. Then Canadian North has to forward it to Calm Air. Hopefully there are no extra fee's
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I also hope he checked the monitor, as I paid for "Perfect Pixel". I can't imagine how much trouble and expensive it'll be for me to send it back to green-sum..
> EDIT 2: If all goes better than expected, then it'll be nice to actually be able to push my GPU's


Same here!
Been on "Fowarding" since Thursday, so getting it monday or tuesday.


----------



## Zudeo

I ordered mine last Sunday and got it on the Thursday. It's the SE Tempered Model. So far so good -- no problems! Greensum provided a DVI cable and the correct powersupply for my region. (Canada). Unfortunately there was a speck of dust stuck to the glass so I had get underneath and take some compressed air to it but it looks gorgeous!

Now all I need is a videocard to run BF3 on Ultra!


----------



## CallsignVega

It is amazing I still see the "multi-input overclock" monitors selling a lot on Ebay. I am 100% sure those people don't realize those aren't true overclock monitors as they are falsely advertised and they frame skip. You are essentially getting a $300 60 Hz Catleap with more input lag for $530.









You've been warned.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> I'm running this perfectly off a 6870 (XFX Black Edition). I can even get into my UEFI BIOS (Asus P8P67 Pro BIOS 3207 x64).
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, same here lol. At least I got like around 25 more days to decide on whether or not I want to fork out $50 for the 3 year warranty. I'm leaning on it though..wbu?
> Same problem here. So far I haven't found a solution yet.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, which adapter did you buy? I'm deciding on whether or not I should just fork out an extra $30 and get the "official" Apple branded one or get the cheaper Monoprice one.
> 
> 
> 
> How are games with the 6870? I have the same gpu and want to know if it can play bf3 at high settings with no AA and stuff.
Click to expand...

You cannot run BF3 at 1440p at high with that card in large maps. Even the 6970 is barely at it - I had to buy a second to CFX it to run BF3 mid 50FPS on high. (edited: even without AA)

Nevertheless, GTX680 now. It runs anything at 1440p.


----------



## PJoey

Hey Guys,

I have been searching for a long time for a 120hz monitor (don't judge the new account haha). I was sold on the xl2420t back in march when it was listed at NCIX for $299.99 CAD. I have since moved on and I have been eyeing this monitor for some time. I am about 90% sold on this monitor. I have scoped out all the sellers on ebay, but I have one question that should be answered before I make this purchase:

Is there any sure-fire way to make sure you get one of the B-Series/"2B" monitors?

I mean without buying the $530 "120hz Overclocked" monitor, is there a specific way to get one of the monitors that can be O.C.ed up to 85hz? I have a GTX 580 ATM and I would be bummed out to purchase this monitor after reading all the awesome reviews to find that I can only get up to 67Hz.

Side note: I see the sellers have it listed on Ebay that they are not able to take any requests for serial numbers. This instantly through up a red flag in my mind before I knew there were different series monitors. Now I understand why they would say that and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You,

Joe


----------



## PCM2

If you have your heart set on a 120Hz monitor because you want a silky smooth gaming experience then forget about these monitors (overclockable or otherwise). They are in no way equivalent in responsiveness to 120Hz TN panels and can not compete in that area. There are sound reasons why LG and Samsung haven't jumped at the opportunity to launch 120Hz IPS and PLS panels just yet.

If you want these monitors for the potential quality and value on offer and are interested in gaming at WQHD then by all means take the punt. Just make sure your expectations are realistic. See any additional refresh rate you can squeeze out as a bonus not a necessity - especially if you have a single GTX 580 which is not going to pump out super frame rates at 2560 x 1440.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PJoey*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> I have been searching for a long time for a 120hz monitor (don't judge the new account haha). I was sold on the xl2420t back in march when it was listed at NCIX for $299.99 CAD. I have since moved on and I have been eyeing this monitor for some time. I am about 90% sold on this monitor. I have scoped out all the sellers on ebay, but I have one question that should be answered before I make this purchase:
> Is there any sure-fire way to make sure you get one of the B-Series/"2B" monitors?
> I mean without buying the $530 "120hz Overclocked" monitor, is there a specific way to get one of the monitors that can be O.C.ed up to 85hz? I have a GTX 580 ATM and I would be bummed out to purchase this monitor after reading all the awesome reviews to find that I can only get up to 67Hz.
> Side note: I see the sellers have it listed on Ebay that they are not able to take any requests for serial numbers. This instantly through up a red flag in my mind before I knew there were different series monitors. Now I understand why they would say that and any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thank You,
> Joe


Buying a Catleap off of eBay, you're almost guaranteed *not* to get a 120hz 2B model. The Multi model on eBay listed as 120hz is as mentioned above not true as the multi's are no good in terms of input lag etc. The only way to guarantee yourself a 2B is from a website you can find by searching "Yamakasi Catleap q270 sale information".


----------



## Rayleyne

I'm hoping that my monitor has no issues, i did pay or no dead pixel, ATleast i think i did, that said people keep telling me IPS is amazing, so here goes!


----------



## 1rkrage

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> No worries. I will be getting a 7950 soon so i am sure that will more than do it. Do you know if crossfire will work on these monitors?


I'm getting 40-60 in Metro at 2x MSAA and ultra settings. turned off MLAA though. (7970 @ 1180 MHz)


----------



## Dennybrig

Guys, has anyone heard of the 300 "Leonidas" model that Yamakasi also offers?
It is 2560 x 1600 in 30"

Anyone has any experience with it?


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *1rkrage*
> 
> I'm getting 40-60 in Metro at 2x MSAA and ultra settings. turned off MLAA though. (7970 @ 1180 MHz)


hmmm. LOL> The amount of mixed reviews i have gotten. Is AA needed at that resolution? I don't think so. I will be water cooling the 7950 and later on crossfire if i feel like going through the driver problems. Will that be ok? Or is a GTX 670 better. I am so confused.


----------



## mikeseth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aznboy1993*
> 
> Thanks for I'll get that instead! But, just to be safe, has anyone confirmed it to be working with the Macs (Air/Pro)?


Not that I am aware of.... You sir, are the first soldier. Everyone is waiting for the results of Potalion + Mac =







... (mainly, just me.) If you're near a BestBuy then you can head on down and pick up the adapter, see what happens and then return it if .... anything without charge.

I want to order the Potalion but all I have is a MacBook Air at the moment so if it doesn't go for me, then I am out $350 with a monitor i have no use for.


----------



## eternal7trance

Can we keep the other monitor discussions out of here? This is supposed to be help for this monitor, not all of them together.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Can we keep the other monitor discussions out of here? This is supposed to be help for this monitor, not all of them together.


Was going to say ^
It'll help other people having problems faster, or someone who might be interested in the Catleap can find their answers easier.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Was going to say ^
> It'll help other people having problems faster, or someone who might be interested in the Catleap can find their answers easier.


Yes please do. There are other clubs on OCN for the almost all of the Korean monitors - you can check those out for more information.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PJoey*
> 
> Hey Guys,
> I have been searching for a long time for a 120hz monitor (don't judge the new account haha). I was sold on the xl2420t back in march when it was listed at NCIX for $299.99 CAD. I have since moved on and I have been eyeing this monitor for some time. I am about 90% sold on this monitor. I have scoped out all the sellers on ebay, but I have one question that should be answered before I make this purchase:
> Is there any sure-fire way to make sure you get one of the B-Series/"2B" monitors?
> I mean without buying the $530 "120hz Overclocked" monitor, is there a specific way to get one of the monitors that can be O.C.ed up to 85hz? I have a GTX 580 ATM and I would be bummed out to purchase this monitor after reading all the awesome reviews to find that I can only get up to 67Hz.
> Side note: I see the sellers have it listed on Ebay that they are not able to take any requests for serial numbers. This instantly through up a red flag in my mind before I knew there were different series monitors. Now I understand why they would say that and any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Thank You,
> Joe


No way to get a 2B since they don't exist any longer. The LIMITED multi being offered currently on ebay will not OC despite what the listing says. Someone posted here that they do, but in fact, they don't. We have tested it out and have had many people report on the multis limitations. Vega noted above multis frame skip, lag, and don't OC well versus the 2B models. This is warning number three about purchasing the limited version and hoping to hit 120hz.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PCM2*
> 
> If you have your heart set on a 120Hz monitor because you want a silky smooth gaming experience then forget about these monitors (overclockable or otherwise). They are in no way equivalent in responsiveness to 120Hz TN panels and can not compete in that area. There are sound reasons why LG and Samsung haven't jumped at the opportunity to launch 120Hz IPS and PLS panels just yet. I would recommend reading this article - http://pcmonitors.org/articles/will-we-see-120hz-ips-panels.
> If you want these monitors for the potential quality and value on offer and are interested in gaming at WQHD then by all means take the punt. Just make sure your expectations are realistic. See any additional refresh rate you can squeeze out as a bonus not a necessity - especially if you have a single GTX 580 which is not going to pump out super frame rates at 2560 x 1440.


These KILL TN panels when it comes to color. Besides where you going to get a 27" 120hz TN panel for $450? No one purchasing these wants a 23 or 24 - they want the big enchilada! Color reproduction on the Cats is way better than a TN panel. Putting them side by side really shows how poor TNs do in that regard. As far as silky smooth, no one claims these will compete with TNs (although to be honest, my Cats are pretty close albeit I am no pro gamer.) We have done some pretty intensive testing on these monitors over on 120hz and have found them to be pretty responsive all things considered. In addition, more and more people report higher scores, more kills, etc. on numerous multi-player games simply due to the increase in real estate. Couple an OC cat with a single 670 or above (even AMDs now that the Cat community figured out the pixel limitation issues) and you can own in BF3 (assuming you have some skill to begin with!







) Once you use one, you'll never want smaller TNs again.


----------



## GasMan320

I'm interested in doing dual 27" Catleaps but will barely (if ever) be using them for gaming. I would like to use them for general work stuff as well as some web design and watching movies. What video card would you guys recommend for me to use to power two 27" Catleaps? I'm assuming the video card would need two dual-DVI ports? Thank you.


----------



## psikeiro

Got my Catleap from BCC today. Actually sent Wednesday night, arrived to my home in Texas on Friday morning but I was not home, called DHL and setup a pick up at their warehouse, paid for the 320USD model. Not a single dead pixel, image is beautiful. Stand is wobbly as many have noticed but just while setting up, once set on top of a sturdy desk, good luck getting it to my move. Had a great experience with this seller. Might buy another 1 soon.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GasMan320*
> 
> I'm interested in doing dual 27" Catleaps but will barely (if ever) be using them for gaming. I would like to use them for general work stuff as well as some web design and watching movies. What video card would you guys recommend for me to use to power two 27" Catleaps? I'm assuming the video card would need two dual-DVI ports? Thank you.


You are correct on the dual dvi input for a single card. There are tons of cards that will run two and they don't have to be super powerful if you aren't trying to push pixels at max frame rates. I have a tester computer that runs two Cats from a GTS 250 (one is OC'd to 99hz the other is at 66hz.) A decent mid-level red or green card will be fine for your needs.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GasMan320*
> 
> I'm interested in doing dual 27" Catleaps but will barely (if ever) be using them for gaming. I would like to use them for general work stuff as well as some web design and watching movies. What video card would you guys recommend for me to use to power two 27" Catleaps? I'm assuming the video card would need two dual-DVI ports? Thank you.


As long as the card has 2 dual link dvi ports, you'll be fine.

Edit: Even something as basic as this is fine.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130788


----------



## rexfly62

I've had the Catleap ordered from Greensum for 2 weeks already. No bad pixels but have some light bleed at the corners. It came with a Loadus 190-220v power adapter but it works fine.

Every time I use the monitor after 5-10 minutes, it gets fairly warm and start buzzing (loud white noise) at high frequencies pretty badly, especially on pages with mostly white stuff on it (I heard it requires more power to generate the lighter colors?). I've combed through forums about the buzzing problem at lengths.

So far, I've taken apart the monitor 3 times already and first applied hot glue to the two 220 chokes. That glue didn't work so I tried some epoxy. Epoxy didn't do anything either. I'm at the point where I am thinking of opening up the monitor while having it connected to hear where exactly the buzzing is coming from. It's difficult due to the short cabling inside so I can't stick my ear into the opening. I see a couple other chokes on the two boards and wonder if I should just epoxy all the chokes.

Has anyone else has a similar problem when gluing the 220 chokes didn't stop the buzzing? Thanks


----------



## Charly03

Hi everybody, first thank you for sharing, it has been helpful on my ordering of this YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27"

I'm trying to determine if I got a DOA or if is a GPU compatibility issue.

I'm having some problems (no image / black screen), I want to use this monitor for general use (not gaming ),
my GPU is a PNY GeForce GT 430
the power supply LED is blinking Green when connected to the monitor
the monitor LED power indicator is flashing red/orange (don't matter if is connected to the GPU or NOT
clicking the power on the monitor don't change anything.

IF I unplug the power cord from the monitor I get constant green on the power supply.

the GPU works with my old monitor (ASUS 23" 1920x1080)

I contacted the vendor (ebay pallascospi ) and he indicate that it can be a GPU not compatible ,

Can you clarify what is the normal status light condition for the power supply and monitor ?

Do you think is a GPU compatibility issue ?

IF yes do you think this card will do it
ZOTAC ZT-40708-10L GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130788

Ones again thank you for your feedback and help
Charly03


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charly03*
> 
> Hi everybody, first thank you for sharing, it has been helpful on my ordering of this YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27"
> 
> I'm trying to determine if I got a DOA or if is a GPU compatibility issue.
> 
> I'm having some problems (no image / black screen), I want to use this monitor for general use (not gaming ),
> my GPU is a PNY GeForce GT 430
> the power supply LED is blinking Green when connected to the monitor
> the monitor LED power indicator is flashing red/orange (don't matter if is connected to the GPU or NOT
> clicking the power on the monitor don't change anything.
> 
> IF I unplug the power cord from the monitor I get constant green on the power supply.
> 
> the GPU works with my old monitor (ASUS 23" 1920x1080)
> 
> I contacted the vendor (ebay pallascospi ) and he indicate that it can be a GPU not compatible ,
> 
> Can you clarify what is the normal status light condition for the power supply and monitor ?
> 
> Do you think is a GPU compatibility issue ?
> 
> IF yes do you think this card will do it
> ZOTAC ZT-40708-10L GeForce GT 440 (Fermi) 1GB 128-bit DDR3 PCI Express 2.0 x16
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130788
> 
> Ones again thank you for your feedback and help
> Charly03


Red on the monitor LED indicates a "check power adapter" the power adapter should be solid green. If you had a signal problem the LEDs would both be different than you report. Do you have another "approved" GPU you can connect it to just to show you've ticked that box? The GPU incompatibility seems to be the go-to answer for sellers of these monitors.


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> You cannot run BF3 at 1440p at high with that card in large maps. Even the 6970 is barely at it - I had to buy a second to CFX it to run BF3 mid 50FPS on high. (edited: even without AA)
> Nevertheless, GTX680 now. It runs anything at 1440p.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> You cannot run BF3 at 1440p at high with that card in large maps. Even the 6970 is barely at it - I had to buy a second to CFX it to run BF3 mid 50FPS on high. (edited: even without AA)
> Nevertheless, GTX680 now. It runs anything at 1440p.


Well i think the 1gb 460s are just a little bit slower then the 6870s so hopefully ill be able to get playable framrates on high because it will be a while before i can afford a new card. Personally i wouldnt mind waiting for a card like a 760 to come around in another year or so. So i hope my cards can handle this res if i buy the catleap


----------



## Charly03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Red on the monitor LED indicates a "check power adapter" the power adapter should be solid green. If you had a signal problem the LEDs would both be different than you report. Do you have another "approved" GPU you can connect it to just to show you've ticked that box? The GPU incompatibility seems to be the go-to answer for sellers of these monitors.


Thank you rollOver for your reply, base on your suggestion (RED on the Monitor LED indicate "check power adapter",

I open the power brick and check the voltage on the board of the power supply output (where should be getting around 24V and I'm getting 1.5 V and 0 V with the power connector is plug in into the monitor.

so this look like the power brick is not working properly.

Do you know where I can get a power supply that is compatible with this monitor locally in the US ?

I will contact the vendor and ask them to send a new one but will be a good test to get one local

much appreciated your help

Charly03


----------



## rpps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rexfly62*
> 
> I've had the Catleap ordered from Greensum for 2 weeks already. No bad pixels but have some light bleed at the corners. It came with a Loadus 190-220v power adapter but it works fine.
> Every time I use the monitor after 5-10 minutes, it gets fairly warm and start buzzing (loud white noise) at high frequencies pretty badly, especially on pages with mostly white stuff on it (I heard it requires more power to generate the lighter colors?). I've combed through forums about the buzzing problem at lengths.
> So far, I've taken apart the monitor 3 times already and first applied hot glue to the two 220 chokes. That glue didn't work so I tried some epoxy. Epoxy didn't do anything either. I'm at the point where I am thinking of opening up the monitor while having it connected to hear where exactly the buzzing is coming from. It's difficult due to the short cabling inside so I can't stick my ear into the opening. I see a couple other chokes on the two boards and wonder if I should just epoxy all the chokes.
> Has anyone else has a similar problem when gluing the 220 chokes didn't stop the buzzing? Thanks


When I turn my computer on I get a loud white noise coming through my Logitech Speakers, I have to turn the volume down to half way. I opened the power box (Loadus) up and when I press near the black ground wire the noise goes away, so I thought I would re-colder the joint but noise still there. I have contacted Greensum and he is sending a new power brick but I haven't got much faith in these boards so I was wondering where I could get a better quality power brick from.


----------



## rexfly62

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpps*
> 
> When I turn my computer on I get a loud white noise coming through my Logitech Speakers, I have to turn the volume down to half way. I opened the power box (Loadus) up and when I press near the black ground wire the noise goes away, so I thought I would re-colder the joint but noise still there. I have contacted Greensum and he is sending a new power brick but I haven't got much faith in these boards so I was wondering where I could get a better quality power brick from.


I think that's a different problem than mine but you can check out this post for information on power bricks http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/4170#post_17545571

I haven't seen anyone actually buying and trying them out to validate compatibility so be careful. On the other note, is he sending you the same Loadus power brick or an US compatible one?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charly03*
> 
> Thank you rollOver for your reply, base on your suggestion (RED on the Monitor LED indicate "check power adapter",
> I open the power brick and check the voltage on the board of the power supply output (where should be getting around 24V and I'm getting 1.5 V and 0 V with the power connector is plug in into the monitor.
> so this look like the power brick is not working properly.
> Do you know where I can get a power supply that is compatible with this monitor locally in the US ?
> I will contact the vendor and ask them to send a new one but will be a good test to get one local
> much appreciated your help
> Charly03


I can tell you what I plan to do should my brick fail, *I do not advise it for anyone else!* Take a computer supply (most of us have a few spares) find one with two PCI-E legs (those that supply your GPU). Each one has two 12v legs which *combined in series* (not parallel, *very important*) will produce 24v at the lowest of the two rated amperages. The LoadUS specs two 24v legs at 5amps each so make sure you match this amperage. That gives you a very reliable temporary supply until the seller sends you a new one.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> I can tell you what I plan to do should my brick fail, *I do not advise it for anyone else!* Take a computer supply (most of us have a few spares) find one with two PCI-E legs (those that supply your GPU). Each one has two 12v legs which *combined in series* (not parallel, *very important*) will produce 24v at the lowest of the two rated amperages. The LoadUS specs two 24v legs at 5amps each so make sure you match this amperage. That gives you a very reliable temporary supply until the seller sends you a new one.


Bah, just run a 220V line to your computer


----------



## cybercussion

So whats this connection like a round/pin style (like a laptop) ?


----------



## rpps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rexfly62*
> 
> I think that's a different problem than mine but you can check out this post for information on power bricks http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270/4170#post_17545571
> I haven't seen anyone actually buying and trying them out to validate compatibility so be careful. On the other note, is he sending you the same Loadus power brick or an US compatible one?


I'm in Australia so the power brick supplied suits our power supply 220-240v but I'm a bit sceptical about the quality.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> I can tell you what I plan to do should my brick fail, *I do not advise it for anyone else!* Take a computer supply (most of us have a few spares) find one with two PCI-E legs (those that supply your GPU). Each one has two 12v legs which *combined in series* (not parallel, *very important*) will produce 24v at the lowest of the two rated amperages. The LoadUS specs two 24v legs at 5amps each so make sure you match this amperage. That gives you a very reliable temporary supply until the seller sends you a new one.


Great info, will bookmark Thanks


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> Bah, just run a 220V line to your computer


You're assuming I don't already have 220, my computer uses a dryer power supply

Item number: 251044673955 is another option at $19.50 with free shipping, if you don't mind doing your own wiring.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> So whats this connection like a round/pin style (like a laptop) ?


Four round pins, two 24v pair top and bottom, if you have a dead supply, instant cord! Not a common configuration in US.
Picture shows connector but NOT the same configuration, the Catleap is different.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Going to pick my Catleap up now! I should be back within the hour









EDIT: I have it and it works









I got the tempered glass model and no speakers. It appears to have speakers - or at least an audio in. I haven't tested it yet, as I just plugged it in. Also, there seems to be a slight tilt to it - not level with my desk. But I'm ok with that, considering how much of a difference this is over my U2211H.

Suffice it to say, I'm extremely happy with it









Also, mine smells like umm.. fire? As if dude lives in a wood cabin and the only heat is a fireplace.


----------



## Mattbag

Do I have to pay return shipping if the item is DOA or more then dead pixels. And what if the monitor breaks after the 14 day return period lets say maybe after 2 or 3 months how do i get it repaired?


----------



## rpps

I bought a new power brick from an electrical shop and it's better quality and now I have no hum and I have peace of mind no fires from electrical failure.


----------



## rpps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> Going to pick my Catleap up now! I should be back within the hour
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: I have it and it works
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I got the tempered glass model and no speakers. It appears to have speakers - or at least an audio in. I haven't tested it yet, as I just plugged it in. Also, there seems to be a slight tilt to it - not level with my desk. But I'm ok with that, considering how much of a difference this is over my U2211H.
> quote]
> Mine had a tilt to the right I just put a small washer on between the stand and the base and put in the thumb screw, all is level now


----------



## mikeaj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> I can tell you what I plan to do should my brick fail, *I do not advise it for anyone else!* Take a computer supply (most of us have a few spares) find one with two PCI-E legs (those that supply your GPU). Each one has two 12v legs which *combined in series* (not parallel, *very important*) will produce 24v at the lowest of the two rated amperages. The LoadUS specs two 24v legs at 5amps each so make sure you match this amperage. That gives you a very reliable temporary supply until the seller sends you a new one.


Wait what, you propose getting 24V by connecting 12V and GND lines how? Where's the voltage getting doubled?

I hope this doesn't involve connecting GND_1 -> 12V_1 -> GND_2 -> 12V_2 and hoping for 24V across GND_1 and 12V_2.

Well, I guess you'd just trip the over-current protection when you short 12V and ground together, so no biggie, I hope...


----------



## GlanzaMike

Hi everyone, just thought i'd write a quick thank you here, only just joined up to let you know i just received my two catleap's about an hour ago. I was really skeptical about buying because of how cheap they were and basically having to get them shipped from the other side of the world! I wouldn't ever had bought one let alone two if i hadn't stumbled across this thread, i upgraded from 2 Hanns-G 28" 1920x1200 and the picture quality is ridiculously better, had no problems at all with green-sum super fast delivery and 0 dead pixels on either monitor even though i bought the cheapest ones possible







I did get hit with a £70 import tax from DHL which i was pissed about but whatever, really happy







Will post pics if anyone is interested/wants them.


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GlanzaMike*
> 
> Hi everyone, just thought i'd write a quick thank you here, only just joined up to let you know i just received my two catleap's about an hour ago. I was really skeptical about buying because of how cheap they were and basically having to get them shipped from the other side of the world! I wouldn't ever had bought one let alone two if i hadn't stumbled across this thread, i upgraded from 2 Hanns-G 28" 1920x1200 and the picture quality is ridiculously better, had no problems at all with green-sum super fast delivery and 0 dead pixels on either monitor even though i bought the cheapest ones possible
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I did get hit with a £70 import tax from DHL which i was pissed about but whatever, really happy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will post pics if anyone is interested/wants them.


Glad you got a good 1 dude. Still want to buy mine but needs to upgrade my gfx card first. I can't wait to get mine.


----------



## PCM2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> These KILL TN panels when it comes to color. Besides where you going to get a 27" 120hz TN panel for $450? No one purchasing these wants a 23 or 24 - they want the big enchilada! Color reproduction on the Cats is way better than a TN panel. Putting them side by side really shows how poor TNs do in that regard. As far as silky smooth, no one claims these will compete with TNs (although to be honest, my Cats are pretty close albeit I am no pro gamer.) We have done some pretty intensive testing on these monitors over on 120hz and have found them to be pretty responsive all things considered. In addition, more and more people report higher scores, more kills, etc. on numerous multi-player games simply due to the increase in real estate. Couple an OC cat with a single 670 or above (even AMDs now that the Cat community figured out the pixel limitation issues) and you can own in BF3 (assuming you have some skill to begin with!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) Once you use one, you'll never want smaller TNs again.


Unfortunately there are people who falsely expect performance to mirror the "real" 120 Hz monitors out there (case in point http://www.overclock.net/t/1274347/120hz-tn-panel-or-s-ips/10). I know you were making some general points and weren't directing all of this at me specifically. I am in the fortunate position of being a monitor reviewer and have been involved in the 'industry' research-wise for some years. I also own or have regular access to several IPS/PLS and 120Hz monitors so can make these comparisons for myself - I am well aware of how beautiful the image is on a glossy IPS running WQHD. At the same time I appreciate the constraints that the pixel responsiveness of an IPS panel monitor places on real world performance, regardless of refresh rate. I do agree that these provide exceptional value for money and if they were available a little closer to home from a big brand manufacturer then they would go down an absolute storm. I just want people to have realistic expectations when it comes to the responsiveness benefits of half-baked 120Hz. If people are looking at that as a bonus, more power to them. If they are seeing these as killing two birds with one stone then depending on their sensitivity to responsiveness they may be sorely disappointed.


----------



## Mattbag

I've been back and fourth in my head for a month about weather or not to buy one of these and I finally pulled the trigger just bought a catleap for 305.99 from big cloth craft, spent the last hour seriously debating who I want to order from and if I wanted the catleap or the shimian. Finally did it hopefully it will be here(parents house) by friday or saturday so I can take it with me and set it up in my new home when I'm done moving out by monday.

If these gtx 460s can't hold up I may be in the market for a 7970 soon too!


----------



## LBear

I'm so ready to join the wagon. I want to pull the trigger on one of these korean monitors mainly the catleap. Just not sure how my single 570 will handle games at that resolution even with no AA. Will upgrade to a 670 sometime this fall.


----------



## s74r1

so there's a seller on eBay selling a 2B version that does 120Hz, for $529.99. would be $510 after my eBay bucks. think it's worth it? auction also says 1-2 dead pixels, but 6 sold so far. not sure if that means ALL have 1-2 dead or only some.

would love to do 100Hz with my GTX 690.

it's either this or a the BenQ XL2420T (24" 3D 120Hz 1080p)


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s74r1*
> 
> so there's a seller on eBay selling a 2B version that does 120Hz, for $529.99. would be $510 after my eBay bucks. think it's worth it? auction also says 1-2 dead pixels, but 6 sold so far. not sure if that means ALL have 1-2 dead or only some.
> would love to do 100Hz with my GTX 690.
> it's either this or a the BenQ XL2420T (24" 3D 120Hz 1080p)


That's the multi version. It has input lag and skips the frames once your overclock it. Completely defeats the point of overclocking because you don't see the extra frames you would running at 120hz.
It's basically a scam.


----------



## dandenoth

So I got mine yesterday, the shipping speed on it was amazing considering it was coming from South Korea. Ordered mine from green-sum Thursday, and had it on my porch delivered on Monday. I can find no physical defects to it at all, and the display seems perfect, I have found 0 stuck or dead pixels. It really puts my old Samsung 21inch to complete shame.



I don't have one of the "B" models so is most likely not able to OC, I think it's a P model if I recall correct, I'm at work currently so can't check first hand. I'm interested in seeing if I can find the parts to let me OC though, if anyone knows where to acquire them let me know. The attempts I did do at OC'ing just gave me a black screen when I clicked the "Test" button in the nVidia custom resolution panel.


----------



## Degree

I just received my monitor and I can tell what you guys mean by the stand being too unstable. Thinking of getting a monoprice stand.
But my monitor is just perfect!

No dead pixels!
No bleeding!
Perfect colors!
Included everything you need: power brick, power cord, adapter for power cord so you can use in US and DVI.

Power brick is a bit warmish, but it seems normal.

Ordered from bigclothcraft, will be buying another one sometime this week








Really happy with it.

Don't know if I need to do the color management, did anyone else do it?
How do I know if I need to do it? Everything seems normal to me.


----------



## surfbumb

how are these catleaps at gaming? its either this or the xl2420t for me.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpps*
> 
> I bought a new power brick from an electrical shop and it's better quality and now I have no hum and I have peace of mind no fires from electrical failure.


That's nice - I wish I could get one in the U.S. Haven't found it after searching for a bit.


----------



## dandenoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *surfbumb*
> 
> how are these catleaps at gaming? its either this or the xl2420t for me.


I've played BF3 and Diablo 3 so far on it, and it seems fine. That being said, average FPS was around 40 in BF3 at full resolution (no AA) so I didn't notice any issues with tearing. Input lag to me seems non-existent, and no "ghosting" is apparent either.


----------



## dreadfulwater

I have a multi on the way. I had to have the inputs for consoles due to my setup. Question is, if I use the dual DVI for the PC connection and run at the native res, I should in fact not experience any lag, correct? I think the max this introduces is maybe one frame.


----------



## LBear

You guys getting the warranty?


----------



## ssss69

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear*
> 
> You guys getting the warranty?


Interesting question, does anyone have squaretrade warranty?


----------



## Degree

I'm not getting it since my monitor is 100% perfect








Besides the stand


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ssss69*
> 
> Interesting question, does anyone have squaretrade warranty?


I have it on one of my six monitors. Got it on the first one I purchased and never purchased it again. My first 2B is still running fine and I have beat the crap out of her. It's been opened about 10 times, PCBs swapped numerous times, and just generally been used as a guinea pig. I figure at this point if any of mine go out I will use the warranty on that one!


----------



## Dirtyworks

Can you get the warranty after you've purchased and received?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> Can you get the warranty after you've purchased and received?


Yes I believe you can. Check out their website directly or check ebay. Somewhere in there you can purchase it after the fact.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Just a reminder to SEE PAGE 1 and complete the owner survey. Most seem to skip it, but it does inform the group (assuming people take the time to review the OP!)

Thanks!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> Can you get the warranty after you've purchased and received?


You have 30 or 50 days.
It's one of those, I received my monitor but I'm not going to buy it.


----------



## Degree

Pictures:



Sent in the form for the club <3


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Just a reminder to SEE PAGE 1 and complete the owner survey. Most seem to skip it, but it does inform the group (assuming people take the time to review the OP!)
> 
> Thanks!


Thanks for the reminder, just filled my form out!


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Pictures:
> 
> Sent in the form for the club <3


LOOKS SWEET!! Did you get time to test the bf3?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> LOOKS SWEET!! Did you get time to test the bf3?


Yup







Posted on other thread


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Yup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Posted on other thread


Degree, one question, i see that your monitor shows that "blue hue" that seems to be typical for the Catleaps...
Are you planning on calibrating it?
in the picture it seems a little blue to me..

I am expecting to receive one from BCC too so im looking forward to calibrating it...


----------



## ipreston

Just got my Catleap Q270 SE yesterday. The display looks good and works well for about 10 to 15 minutes, but then it starts blanking out every few seconds. It appears to be heat related. If I place a box fan behind the monitor the blanking occurs less frequently or not at all.

I took a video of the problem:


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dennybrig*
> 
> Degree, one question, i see that your monitor shows that "blue hue" that seems to be typical for the Catleaps...
> Are you planning on calibrating it?
> in the picture it seems a little blue to me..
> I am expecting to receive one from BCC too so im looking forward to calibrating it...


It's because of my wallpaper: 

No I'm not going to calibrate anything, everything is 100% perfect straight out the box


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I think you're talking about a PLP setup? (Portrait-Landscape-Portrait) I was thinking of doing that with a Catleap in the middle, and I found that 19-20" will have the same width as the Catleap has height IIRC. Not counting the stands of course.


so 2 19 inch dell monitors and a catleap should work fine in plp? How tall are these I would love to just buy one and use the two monitors i have rite now.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> It's because of my wallpaper:
> No I'm not going to calibrate anything, everything is 100% perfect straight out the box


did u just get good luck? Who did u buy it from? Thanks


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> It's because of my wallpaper:
> No I'm not going to calibrate anything, everything is 100% perfect straight out the box


Great man, thanks for clarifying it is good that you were so lucky!









Lets hope i get lucky too!!


----------



## Dennybrig

BTW guys, do someone know where to get nice 2560 x 1440 wallpapers?

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## Hamy144

At the moment the only place I can find a perfect pixel version of these if from skyself01
Never heard of him before anybody but from the, before?
I would go BCC but they don't seam to be selling the pixel perfect version ATM

And if someone were to take a gander at guessing what percentage of panels that are not branded as being perfect pixel actually are?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> so 2 19 inch dell monitors and a catleap should work fine in plp? How tall are these I would love to just buy one and use the two monitors i have rite now.


The height of the monitor, not including the stand is 19.88". So anything with a width of around that should be good. Unless you'll solely be gaming, it doesn't have to be exact.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> did u just get good luck? Who did u buy it from? Thanks


bigclothcraft








I'm extremely lucky I guess


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> At the moment the only place I can find a perfect pixel version of these if from skyself01
> Never heard of him before anybody but from the, before?
> I would go BCC but they don't seam to be selling the pixel perfect version ATM
> And if someone were to take a gander at guessing what percentage of panels that are not branded as being perfect pixel actually are?


Don't take a chance with the pixel perfect. Most of them are pixel perfect and they aren't being sold as so. Many people who payed extra for pixel perfect got one that isn't and has dead/stuck pixels.


----------



## gw280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Don't take a chance with the pixel perfect. Most of them are pixel perfect and they aren't being sold as so. Many people who payed extra for pixel perfect got one that isn't and has dead/stuck pixels.


Only the pixel perfect ones are covered by the squaretrade warranty. They won't warrant the normal ones.


----------



## helyu7

Does it reflect if you do simple reading/browsing when you have window in the room?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helyu7*
> 
> Does it reflect if you do simple reading/browsing when you have window in the room?


I have a huge window (maybe 5'x4') to my right and the front door behind me which is usually open and I don't notice much glare. If it starts to become a problem I either close the blinds on the window, shut the door, or crank the brightness of the monitor up.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> Only the pixel perfect ones are covered by the squaretrade warranty. They won't warrant the normal ones.


^ I was just on the phone with them (contact SquareTrade at 1-877-WARRANTY), and they said they would honor it.. (even if it doesn't say perfect pixel)









[Although let me clarify. I told them the specific item number of a different Korean monitor (ACHIEVA Shimian-lite), and they confirmed that they would cover it with the 3-yr warranty for $41.99 (the monitor was $297) even though it was manufactured and sold from Korea.]


----------



## helyu7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I have a huge window (maybe 5'x4') to my right and the front door behind me which is usually open and I don't notice much glare. If it starts to become a problem I either close the blinds on the window, shut the door, or crank the brightness of the monitor up.


Thanks

How is it for doing normal browsing and reading text?


----------



## subyman

Just got mine in the mail today, super fast shipping. They shipped it on Monday and it came today (Wednesday.) Runs great and looks fantastic. I got the 290 SE model that green-sum had on sale. I did an dead pixel test and had no dead pixels at all. There is a slight bleed in the backlight when the screen is totally black, but other than that and the crappy stand it looks great. Definitely worth the purchase!


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> Just got mine in the mail today, super fast shipping. They shipped it on Monday and it came today (Wednesday.) Runs great and looks fantastic. I got the 290 SE model that green-sum had on sale. I did an dead pixel test and had no dead pixels at all. There is a slight bleed in the backlight when the screen is totally black, but other than that and the crappy stand it looks great. Definitely worth the purchase!


How'd customs work? Did you have to pay anything extra, or declare the item as a gift? Or do we not have to worry about it in the US?


----------



## dandenoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CpHaAiOnS*
> 
> How'd customs work? Did you have to pay anything extra, or declare the item as a gift? Or do we not have to worry about it in the US?


I got mine from the same seller, no customs issues at all, and they didn't tack on any charges. I believe green-sum either declares them as gifts or gives them only minimal values.


----------



## LBear

Pulled the trigger on a yamaksi last night. Hoping to get a perfect one. Ill post pics when it arrives.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CpHaAiOnS*
> 
> How'd customs work? Did you have to pay anything extra, or declare the item as a gift? Or do we not have to worry about it in the US?


You don't have to worry about anything, just send payment and wait for the monitor to come to your door








No extra fees or anything, just like ordering normally from Amazon something.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> You don't have to worry about anything, just send payment and wait for the monitor to come to your door
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No extra fees or anything, just like ordering normally from Amazon something.


Thx!


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Don't take a chance with the pixel perfect. Most of them are pixel perfect and they aren't being sold as so. Many people who payed extra for pixel perfect got one that isn't and has dead/stuck pixels.


I'm still really dubious about getting the non pixel perfect as I've been talking these up to friends family to do a group buy so I think for £15 extra it might be worth it


----------



## luckycody125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mxgt*
> 
> 2 weeks later:
> 
> lol. time to send back I guess. don't think I'm going to bother again.


Did you ever find a fix to this problem? Or does anyone know if there is one? Just received my new monitor and it turns out I have the same problem brand new out of the box.


----------



## gw280

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckycody125*
> 
> Did you ever find a fix to this problem? Or does anyone know if there is one? Just received my new monitor and it turns out I have the same problem brand new out of the box.


Almost certainly a bad cable or loose pin on the DVI connector. Looks like the R channel is getting screwed up somehow.


----------



## luckycody125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gw280*
> 
> Almost certainly a bad cable or loose pin on the DVI connector. Looks like the R channel is getting screwed up somehow.


Alright, thank you. Only had the DVI cable that came with it so off to the market I go.


----------



## Degree

Also if anyone wanted to know:

Who did I buy from: bigclothcraft
How long did it take: Paid last Wednesday - Received Tuesday
Did I order perfect pixel: No
Dead pxiels: None at all
Bleeding: None
Stand: Same with everyone elses's. Unstable, but I'm not replacing since it doesn't move/shake/wobble.


----------



## geovas77

Received my tempered glass catleap from Green-Sum today, took exactly 7 days from paying to the monitor getting delivered in Athens, Greece. I specifically asked for EMS posting with a 100$ value noted and I did not pay any customs or any other fee besides the 350$ ebay sale.

The monitor does not have any bleed or dead pixels and it's a substantial upgrade from my 26" TN 1200p Samsung so I am a happy camper, lets hope those korean panels stand the test of time and don't blowup within months









Finally for those wondering my Asus 670 can perfectly maintain a healthy 60 fps @ 1440p (adaptive vsync) playing Battlefield 3 on Ultra with the sole compromise of turning off 4xMSAA which is hardly a necessity at such high resolution anyway.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CpHaAiOnS*
> 
> How'd customs work? Did you have to pay anything extra, or declare the item as a gift? Or do we not have to worry about it in the US?


No customs in the US with South Korea I believe. We have a free trade agreement on individual items or consumer purchases from what I have read. My package literally landed at 2am in the US, passed customs, and was at my door step over 200 miles away by noon.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *luckycody125*
> 
> Alright, thank you. Only had the DVI cable that came with it so off to the market I go.


I would recommend buying a Dual Link DVI cable from Monoprice. The Amazon ones are sketchy at best. Some have the DL-DVI head but the actual cabling is only attached to the standard DVI pins. Don't get the high quality DL-DVI cable from monoprice unless you want lengths longer than 10ft. The are extremely thick and hard to work with.


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CpHaAiOnS*
> 
> ^ I was just on the phone with them (contact SquareTrade at 1-877-WARRANTY), and they said they would honor it.. (even if it doesn't say perfect pixel)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> [Although let me clarify. I told them the specific item number of a different Korean monitor (ACHIEVA Shimian-lite), and they confirmed that they would cover it with the 3-yr warranty for $41.99 (the monitor was $297) even though it was manufactured and sold from Korea.]


I almost never buy warrentys but in this instance i think I might get one including the accidental protection because i expect this to last me more then just a year or so! Anybody thinking its worth it to buy the warrenty?


----------



## Degree

Anyone have some 1440p wallpapers they want to share?


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone have some 1440p wallpapers they want to share?


google my friend. You will get a whole bunch of sites with them.


----------



## brute maniac

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone have some 1440p wallpapers they want to share?


theres not much to choose from out there lol
interfacelift is a good place, i like them alot. wallpapers wide is ok. wallbase too


----------



## Degree

Found the one I like








http://interfacelift.com/wallpaper/details/2958/fading_night_in_sydney.html

Looks magnificent!

Wish there were other1440p wallpapers instead of all these natural ones XD


----------



## dandenoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone have some 1440p wallpapers they want to share?


Go to Google images, search for wallpaper, and put in 2560x1440 for the exact size.


----------



## helyu7

So I am looking to buy one of these from green-sum.

Anyone had anykind of problems like defective piece when ordered from him?

Also, tempered glass means it will have less reflection, correct?


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone have some 1440p wallpapers they want to share?


http://wallbase.cc/home


----------



## gogusrl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone have some 1440p wallpapers they want to share?


I've been using this since I got my monitor and I think I've spent hours already just staring at it. Imgur album


http://imgur.com/p8IpM

.

Note : these are real pictures taken by Hubble and other telescopes.


----------



## helyu7

wow! The wallpaper looks really great, something which is forcing me to really think about it.

Does anyone know if this monitor would work with nVidia GeForce GT 620? I am purchasing a new PC as well, and the new PC has this video card. So if by chance monitor doesnt work, then I will end up wasting money on a new pc which I dont want.

Thanks


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone have some 1440p wallpapers they want to share?








http://www.wallz.eu/wallpaper


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helyu7*
> 
> So I am looking to buy one of these from green-sum.
> Anyone had anykind of problems like defective piece when ordered from him?
> Also, tempered glass means it will have less reflection, correct?


Man there are many stories from Green-Sum some good some bad...
What i have seen is that BigClothCraft is doing a good work with the monitors...
I ordered mine from them and it is about to get home today. Ill post the pictures of it.

And no, tempered glass will make it have A LOT more reflections (like the MacBooks)


----------



## ElevenEleven

I have had both tempered glass models and a CrossOver without, and in my experience the two kinds are equal in the amount of glare. I actually prefer tempered glass due to the bezel being overall less reflective.


----------



## duckymcse

Got my Catleap Q270 last ngiht. Work fine for about an hour and suddenly the screen went out. Turn off and on the computer and still nothing display. Unplug the power from the monitor and plug it back in and still no display. Both light on the power adapter and monitor is solid green.
I know my computer is working fine. Sometime I manage to get the display working for about 5 seconds than it when black again. The monitor most likely defective. The display is really nice when it work.
It's a gamble when order these monitor, I guess I am the unlcuky one


----------



## Kimo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckymcse*
> 
> Got my Catleap Q270 last ngiht. Work fine for about an hour and suddenly the screen went out. Turn off and on the computer and still nothing display. Unplug the power from the monitor and plug it back in and still no display. Both light on the power adapter and monitor is solid green.
> I know my computer is working fine. Sometime I manage to get the display working for about 5 seconds than it when black again. The monitor most likely defective. The display is really nice when it work.
> It's a gamble when order these monitor, I guess I am the unlcuky one


Maybe try a new DVI-D cable?

My first catleap died in about 4 days. I received my replacement not too long ago.


----------



## throne4me

Awesome!
One of them definitely goes on the list


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckymcse*
> 
> Got my Catleap Q270 last ngiht. Work fine for about an hour and suddenly the screen went out. Turn off and on the computer and still nothing display. Unplug the power from the monitor and plug it back in and still no display. Both light on the power adapter and monitor is solid green.
> I know my computer is working fine. Sometime I manage to get the display working for about 5 seconds than it when black again. The monitor most likely defective. The display is really nice when it work.
> It's a gamble when order these monitor, I guess I am the unlcuky one


Did you check the label on the PSU brick. did it say 100-240V. Of not, it may fail after a bit running on 110V,


----------



## timmyfred

So I have a silly question...

I live in the US and just bought one of these monitors from greensum. The power brick says "190V - 240V"...I'm going to need to buy a different brick, right?


----------



## rpps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmyfred*
> 
> So I have a silly question...
> I live in the US and just bought one of these monitors from greensum. The power brick says "190V - 240V"...I'm going to need to buy a different brick, right?


I wasn't sure of the quality of the supplied power brick with my Catleap as it use create a lud hum through my speakers and get pretty hot. Do for safety reasons and peace of mind I bought this.


----------



## duckymcse

I got mine last night and notice the power bricks label 190V - 240V with a sticker saying "110V OK".
So I power up my monitor with it and in about an hour the dislay suddenly went black. I can't get it to display since than. Sometime I manage to get it to display for couple of seconds and it went black again.
I going to do more troubleshooting tonight (i.e try different DVI-D cable, videocard and computer).
Right now I think my monitor is dead. I wonder if the power brick got something to do with it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmyfred*
> 
> So I have a silly question...
> I live in the US and just bought one of these monitors from greensum. The power brick says "190V - 240V"...I'm going to need to buy a different brick, right?


----------



## n8236

Need some solid and accurate advise for the Yamakasi Catleap Multi.

I'm in the process of purchasing the Macbook Pro Retina and it has HDMI 1.4. According to the HDMI versioned Catleaps, it has version 1.3 (as the picture depicts that)? However, in another part of the description, it states HDMI version up to only 1920x1080p. I've already contacted seller for clarification.

I could simply go w/ the DL-DVI versions, but I'll need to find the right hardware for my laptop (which I might just do to save a little bit of $).

Does anyone have the HDMI version of the Catleaps and running 2560x1440 via their HDMI?


----------



## steveotron

Ordered the Catleap on Saturday from green-sum while it was on sale for $290, and I received it today (missed the delivery yesterday). I'm using it with a dual boot hackintosh, and I can spot no flaws with the monitor at all. Zero dead pixels and no noticeable backlight bleed. I'm using it with an Asus CuCore 5770, and I know that there are some people still worried that it won't work with the 5770 (sellers have that chart that say it won't, after all). I think 2 people reported it working so far in this huge thread, and I should be the 3rd. I can see the BIOS screen and everything. I sold my iMac after deciding to use my hackintosh as a main, and I've missed that S-IPS panel since then. That was until today.


----------



## Dennybrig

Guys i cant believe i just received my monitor, it took ONE DAY to get from Seoul to Mexico

It is insane..
the only thing is that those guys charged me $30 dlls for import duties...
that is a lot of money

I will inform you when i unbox it


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dennybrig*
> 
> Guys i cant believe i just received my monitor, it took ONE DAY to get from Seoul to Mexico
> It is insane..
> the only thing is that those guys charged me $30 dlls for import duties...
> that is a lot of money
> I will inform you when i unbox it


Good luck


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Good luck


Thanks!







Im really happy, i hope i got a good panel!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rpps*
> 
> I wasn't sure of the quality of the supplied power brick with my Catleap as it use create a lud hum through my speakers and get pretty hot. Do for safety reasons and peace of mind I bought this.


I have to laugh a little - you traded a Korean-made brick for a Chinese-made brick and you did it for peace of mind?







I understand your points so don't take this the wrong way - I just found it a little funny.

EDIT: I have 6 Cats now - 5 OC and 1 non-OC and have never had an issue with the bricks. I understand this is a SMALL sample size (doesn't even register as a sample size actually), but I torture these almost daily and they seem to hold up fine.


----------



## timmyfred

I somehow missed the little sticker on the brick that says "110v acceptable". I've got it hooked up and all is well. No dead pixels, no humming, everything great









Pretty pleased with this purchase.


----------



## cybercussion

Ordered Saturday night and they got here Thursday from Green-sum. Panels in good shape, no pixel issues or anything. One of the monitor stands is a little higher than the other so I'm perplexed. Thought maybe it didn't screw in flush which explains the near 1/4" hight over the other monitor. They don't appear to go up and down so I might just need to find something to put under the other one.

Power supplies get toasty after 10 minutes much like others stated. Stands are wobbly also as stated previously. OS X booted right up right at 2560x1440. No display issues on a BFG 9800 GTX OC.



I actually own 2 27" Apple Cinema Displays and the panel looks pretty good but the viewing angles are not as good. Obviously the stand doesn't even come close. But for what you save ... I'll take it.


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> Ordered Saturday night and they got here Thursday from Green-sum. Panels in good shape, no pixel issues or anything. One of the monitor stands is a little higher than the other so I'm perplexed. Thought maybe it didn't screw in flush which explains the near 1/4" hight over the other monitor. They don't appear to go up and down so I might just need to find something to put under the other one.
> Power supplies get toasty after 10 minutes much like others stated. Stands are wobbly also as stated previously. OS X booted right up right at 2560x1440. No display issues on a BFG 9800 GTX OC.
> 
> I actually own 2 27" Apple Cinema Displays and the panel looks pretty good but the viewing angles are not as good. Obviously the stand doesn't even come close. But for what you save ... I'll take it.


I had the same issue thinking that one of the monitors were lower. But in reality, they were actually just off tilt. The panel it self tilts where the screen connects with the stand, and its rather hard to get both screens to align correctly. Once you manage it though, your screens will actually be aligned.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> Ordered Saturday night and they got here Thursday from Green-sum. Panels in good shape, no pixel issues or anything. One of the monitor stands is a little higher than the other so I'm perplexed. Thought maybe it didn't screw in flush which explains the near 1/4" hight over the other monitor. They don't appear to go up and down so I might just need to find something to put under the other one.
> Power supplies get toasty after 10 minutes much like others stated. Stands are wobbly also as stated previously. OS X booted right up right at 2560x1440. No display issues on a BFG 9800 GTX OC.
> I actually own 2 27" Apple Cinema Displays and the panel looks pretty good but the viewing angles are not as good. Obviously the stand doesn't even come close. But for what you save ... I'll take it.


Congratulations! I really think these are the perfect monitors for an osx86 build since the new models aren't suited much for OC'ing. They are very close to the quality of the cinema displays at a much lower cost just like one's homebrew!


----------



## tael

Could someone measure the height of the monitor not including the stand?
Trying to figure out how I'll need to set mine up, should be ordering soon....


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tael*
> 
> Could someone measure the height of the monitor not including the stand?
> Trying to figure out how I'll need to set mine up, should be ordering soon....


it is 395mm high outer dimension


----------



## CrispyBread

I think I'm about to remove the stands and put them on a dual mount. I'm thinking about using this one, Mount-It! Articulating Dual Arm Computer Monitor Desk Mount for monitors up to 27".

Anybody have any tips not stated in the guide about removing the stand? Things to watch out for, etc?


----------



## cybercussion

I stuck a piece of cardboard under the side of the right monitor to get it to bend inward. It lined right up then, so you were correct.

I checked with infrared the temperature of the power supplies. Left is 122F and Right was 125.5F. Both spiked +/- 2 degrees but that seems to be where they top out. They cool off after you go into suspend mode so thats nice. Does have that freshly hot electronics smell .. Mmmmmmm


----------



## macschwag14

Hi. I purchased my first Catleap Q270 that I'm trying to run it on a GeForce GTX 560ti 448 core card. Unfortunately I cannot get any picture to display. All I get when I turn it on is a solid green light and an illuminated black screen (with one stuck green pixel). Here's what I've tried:

- Using two different dual-link DVI cables, one of which came with my monitor (both work on my old monitor).

- Using different ports on my graphics card.

- Selecting the screen resolution in control on my 1080p monitor and moving my mouse over the "detect" button, unplugging the 1080p monitor and plugging the cable into the Catleap and pushing "detect."

- Doing the same thing as above but using the Nvidia control panel.

- Rebooting with my monitor on and my monitor off.

- Plugging an HDMI adapter into the Catleap and running video with an HDMI cable.

- Loosening the screws in the bottom of the Catleap's base. I read somewhere that it may work...

Any other suggestions? I thought this would be a simple plug-and-play but that doesn't seem to be the case. Thanks!


----------



## kablam0r

Got mine today. Started up fine no dead pixels, thus far but the text is pretty garbled. I'm running an Radeon 4890. I'm assuming my video card doesn't have enough muscle? Any suggestions on a $200 card that would be decent for gaming? Of course when I try and post a screen grab the text looks clear!

I'm assuming this would be a great replacement?

http://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604
or a XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 or XFX FX-785A-CNFC Radeon HD 7850.

Thoughts??

My CPU is an i7 920 and 8 GB


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macschwag14*
> 
> Hi. I purchased my first Catleap Q270 that I'm trying to run it on a GeForce GTX 560ti 448 core card. Unfortunately I cannot get any picture to display. All I get when I turn it on is a solid green light and an illuminated black screen (with one stuck green pixel). Here's what I've tried:
> - Using two different dual-link DVI cables, one of which came with my monitor (both work on my old monitor).
> - Using different ports on my graphics card.
> - Selecting the screen resolution in control on my 1080p monitor and moving my mouse over the "detect" button, unplugging the 1080p monitor and plugging the cable into the Catleap and pushing "detect."
> - Doing the same thing as above but using the Nvidia control panel.
> - Rebooting with my monitor on and my monitor off.
> - Plugging an HDMI adapter into the Catleap and running video with an HDMI cable.
> - Loosening the screws in the bottom of the Catleap's base. I read somewhere that it may work...
> Any other suggestions? I thought this would be a simple plug-and-play but that doesn't seem to be the case. Thanks!


Anyone have success with this card? Have you tried a safe boot with the Catleap attached?


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kablam0r*
> 
> Got mine today. Started up fine no dead pixels, thus far but the text is pretty garbled. I'm running an Radeon 4890. I'm assuming my video card doesn't have enough muscle? Any suggestions on a $200 card that would be decent for gaming? Of course when I try and post a screen grab the text looks clear!
> I'm assuming this would be a great replacement?
> http://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604


Go to your GPU Control Panel and set the resolution again. (Possibly forcing it to a lower res then back up)
My Asus 120hz monitor does this occasionally when I swap between GPUs and dual screen settings.

(Also, thanks for the info rollOver)


----------



## kablam0r

Yea, I've messed around with that, but it still looks funky. I have it set to 1920x1080. I've gone up and down. The lower res look decent, but the higher res text is garbled. 1080p video on it is absolutely amazing though.


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kablam0r*
> 
> Yea, I've messed around with that, but it still looks funky. I have it set to 1920x1080. I've gone up and down. The lower res look decent, but the higher res text is garbled


Could be a problem with the DVI cable perhaps. Seems suspicious that lower res is fine, do you have another dual link DVI cable to test with?
Tried both inputs on the card? Haven't checked any specs for your card, so not sure what it actually has. As long as it has dual link DVI, it should be fine from all I've read in the past few months.

I'm just throwing out some guesses mostly.


----------



## kablam0r

Here are the specs. I'll give the other port a try. I unplugged it from my 24 inch samsung which displays fine though

Name: Sapphire Radeon HD 4890 1GB
Part Number: 21150-00-40R
Manufacturer: Sapphire

Process 55 nm
Transistors 956M
Engine Clock 850 MHz
Stream Processors 800
Compute Performance 1.36 TFLOPs
Texture Units 40
Texture Fillrate 34.0 GTexels/s
ROPs 16
Pixel Fillrate 13.6 GPixels/s
Z/Stencil 64
Z Fillrate 54.4 GSamples/s
Memory Type GDDR5
Memory Clock 975 MHz
Frame Buffer Size 1GB
Memory Data Rate 3.9 Gbps
Memory Bus 256-bit
Memory Bandwidth 124.8 GB/s
Maximum Board Power 190 W
Idle Board Power 60W


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macschwag14*
> 
> Hi. I purchased my first Catleap Q270 that I'm trying to run it on a GeForce GTX 560ti 448 core card. Unfortunately I cannot get any picture to display. All I get when I turn it on is a solid green light and an illuminated black screen (with one stuck green pixel). Here's what I've tried:
> - Using two different dual-link DVI cables, one of which came with my monitor (both work on my old monitor).
> - Using different ports on my graphics card.
> - Selecting the screen resolution in control on my 1080p monitor and moving my mouse over the "detect" button, unplugging the 1080p monitor and plugging the cable into the Catleap and pushing "detect."
> - Doing the same thing as above but using the Nvidia control panel.
> - Rebooting with my monitor on and my monitor off.
> - Plugging an HDMI adapter into the Catleap and running video with an HDMI cable.
> - Loosening the screws in the bottom of the Catleap's base. I read somewhere that it may work...
> Any other suggestions? I thought this would be a simple plug-and-play but that doesn't seem to be the case. Thanks!


If you have the regular version, not the multi input, then HDMI will not work since this has no scalar.

First test - connect it to another computer system if you have access OR if you have access to another GPU - try the other GPU (I don't think it is the card). I have run all my Cats on some pretty low level cards without issue (and have run them all on a single 560 card and 560s in SLI.)

Solid green means signal so if you don't get an image on another computer or with another GPU, then you have two choices: return it or open it up.

You could have the DVI PCB signal wire issue where it isn't seated properly in the panel PCB (if you open it you will see how the panel PCB can get disconnected or not be properly attached at the factory.)

Report back.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kablam0r*
> 
> Yea, I've messed around with that, but it still looks funky. I have it set to 1920x1080. I've gone up and down. The lower res look decent, but the higher res text is garbled. 1080p video on it is absolutely amazing though.


Sounds like a single-link output or cable. Are you certain you're using the cable supplied with the Catleap and the dual-link port on the GPU?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kablam0r*
> 
> Got mine today. Started up fine no dead pixels, thus far but the text is pretty garbled. I'm running an Radeon 4890. I'm assuming my video card doesn't have enough muscle? Any suggestions on a $200 card that would be decent for gaming? Of course when I try and post a screen grab the text looks clear!
> I'm assuming this would be a great replacement?
> http://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130604
> or a XFX Double D HD-695X-CDFC Radeon HD 6950 or XFX FX-785A-CNFC Radeon HD 7850.
> Thoughts??
> My CPU is an i7 920 and 8 GB


Unless you want to use this as an excuse to update your card - I would go to your manufacturer's website and check the card's specs. Can it push 2560 x 1440? If not then you have your answer.

If you want another card - that is all subjective IMO. I would go nVidia, but I am an unabashed nVidia fanboy I don't care who knows it. After everything green has done for the Cat 120hz OC community over the past six months I am a customer for life for sure. AMD is doing better, but still lags a bit.

Your CPU and memory is great for gaming still. Rock on!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Sounds like a single-link output or cable. Are you certain you're using the cable supplied with the Catleap and the dual-link port on the GPU?


Every "break it" test I have done with a single link DVI shows the desktop in four blocks like x x - although I do my break tests on a crappy GTS 250 GPU.

x x

Although now that I think about it it would make sense for different cards to respond to a single link DVI to the dual link connection differently - so I will shut up now.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Every "break it" test I have done with a single link DVI shows the desktop in four blocks like x x - although I do my break tests on a crappy GTS 250 GPU.
> x x
> 
> Although now that I think about it it would make sense for different cards to respond to a single link DVI to the dual link connection differently - so I will shut up now.


No, that makes sense. I tried it with the single-link cable from my old monitor and it filled the screen but text looked all pixelated, blocky as kablam0r described it.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> No, that makes sense. I tried it with the single-link cable from my old monitor and it filled the screen but text looked all pixelated, blocky as kablam0r described it.


When I put a single link in to mine, it's just a blank lit up screen.


----------



## kablam0r

HOLY CRAP, I switched cables and the picture is now AWESOME! Thanks RollOver.

Only complaints are the stand sucks ballz and there's a slight buzzing from the monitor itself. I'm pulling the stand for a mount tomorrow.

thanks again guys!


----------



## macschwag14

Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like I'll be taking it apart this weekend. All my friends in this town have either Macs, laptops with VGA plugins or desktops with cards that can't scale to this high of a resolution.

I'll report back if it's the PCB.

Edit: Is there a tutorial of how to crack this thing open?


----------



## helyu7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kablam0r*
> 
> HOLY CRAP, I switched cables and the picture is now AWESOME! Thanks RollOver.
> Only complaints are the stand sucks ballz and there's a slight buzzing from the monitor itself. I'm pulling the stand for a mount tomorrow.
> thanks again guys!


How does the text looks at full resolution?
I am looking to purchase the same monitor for browsing and reading, but not sure if the text is actually readable at such a high resolution.


----------



## duckymcse

Follow up to my own post. I managed to get it fixed by removing the panel and replug all the cables inside the panel to make sure it is tight and secure.
I'm using it now as I am typing this. Wow, the display is so nice. Just hope it will last. Finger cross








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *duckymcse*
> 
> Got my Catleap Q270 last ngiht. Work fine for about an hour and suddenly the screen went out. Turn off and on the computer and still nothing display. Unplug the power from the monitor and plug it back in and still no display. Both light on the power adapter and monitor is solid green.
> I know my computer is working fine. Sometime I manage to get the display working for about 5 seconds than it when black again. The monitor most likely defective. The display is really nice when it work.
> It's a gamble when order these monitor, I guess I am the unlcuky one


----------



## duckymcse

Text is very tiny even with Windows 7 and difficult for me to read. I used to big text.
But, you can easily customize bigger text size to your liking and still looks just as good.
This monitor is awesome if it work.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *helyu7*
> 
> How does the text looks at full resolution?
> I am looking to purchase the same monitor for browsing and reading, but not sure if the text is actually readable at such a high resolution.


----------



## Rayleyne

I ordered mine from green-sum i think it was, a few days ago, I got a tracking number but DHL doesn't show anything, I keep seeing people having a world of problems, I do hope mine works...


----------



## cybercussion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> I ordered mine from green-sum i think it was, a few days ago, I got a tracking number but DHL doesn't show anything, I keep seeing people having a world of problems, I do hope mine works...


Mine said nothing for a day, then sat in Korea for 2. Next thing I know it was in LA, then Seattle same day and out for delivery.


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> Mine said nothing for a day, then sat in Korea for 2. Next thing I know it was in LA, then Seattle same day and out for delivery.


It's said nothing for a few days now D:


----------



## FlashFir

Power brick & monitor run hot.

power brick hard to keep my foot on it for more than 10 seconds. monitor is kinda warm touching the back.

Thoughts?


----------



## steveotron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> It's said nothing for a few days now D:


Are you checking the number through eBay or directly at DHL's site? The eBay tracker doesn't display things up-to-date.


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steveotron*
> 
> Are you checking the number through eBay or directly at DHL's site? The eBay tracker doesn't display things up-to-date.


The DHL website

EEEEEEEEEE my monitor is moving
Friday, June 29, 2012 Location Time
8 Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 17:52

7 Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 16:28

Thursday, June 28, 2012 Location Time
6 Shipment on hold INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 22:52

5 Clearance delay INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 21:53

4 Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 20:04

3 Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 19:29

2 Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 19:27

1 Shipment picked up SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 17:43


----------



## blattkube

Got my Catleap today and it's awesome. One problem though. I tried the color profile from the first post and it's much better, less green and evrything. But i've noticed that it is still green-ish at the bottom of the screen. Can i change this somehow? I'm not sure how this would work. Any tipps?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blattkube*
> 
> Got my Catleap today and it's awesome. One problem though. I tried the color profile from the first post and it's much better, less green and evrything. But i've noticed that it is still green-ish at the bottom of the screen. Can i change this somehow? I'm not sure how this would work. Any tipps?


That's probably yellow tinting, which you can't really fix. Makes the screen appear splotchy and dirty in affected areas and can vary in intensity from barely noticeable to very noticeable. I've gone through 3 (other) Korean monitors: one does not have it almost at all, and one had it very significantly, with a dirty dark line along the bottom.


----------



## blattkube

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> That's probably yellow tinting, which you can't really fix. Makes the screen appear splotchy and dirty in affected areas and can vary in intensity from barely noticeable to very noticeable. I've gone through 3 (other) Korean monitors: one does not have it almost at all, and one had it very significantly, with a dirty dark line along the bottom.


Okay, so i might have to get used to it. It just looks not a brilliant as the rest. Though i think it's not so bad. Only slightly more green.


----------



## cybercussion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Power brick & monitor run hot.
> power brick hard to keep my foot on it for more than 10 seconds. monitor is kinda warm touching the back.
> Thoughts?


The highest temp I've seen on mine is 127.7F. They got that hot/new electronic burn-in smell to them which I assume will go away after time.
I did some thermal tests around the monitors. Face of the monitor was putting off 95.6 degress. Top of the monitor (air vents) around 105F.

Rough comparison with my Apple Cinema Displays - 84F around the entire monitor. There is no external power supply.


----------



## Skrumzy

Seriously considering buying three of these for surround. I'm doing research as to how I'm going to be able to hook up three monitors to one GTX 670. From what I gather I'll need to occupy both dvi ports and I'll have to buy an active display port adapter to populate the DP port on the card correct?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Skrumzy*
> 
> Seriously considering buying three of these for surround. I'm doing research as to how I'm going to be able to hook up three monitors to one GTX 670. From what I gather I'll need to occupy both dvi ports and I'll have to buy an active display port adapter to populate the DP port on the card correct?


your gonna prob want a 2nd 670 at that res anyways for fps reasons at that res, so 3 dvi ports.


----------



## kablam0r

Just removed my stand and got it mounted on the desk mount. Its much more stable. Taking it apart to remove the back isn't for the faint of heart! Oh yea, don't use goo-be-gone on the bezel unless you want a matte finish!







I learned that the hard way, I know i'm a dumb arse. I'm extremely happy with this purchase, the picture is pretty awesome. Color still need tweaking. Whites seem a little blue to me.

Not the greatest pic from my iphone


----------



## GrJohnso

^- At least you didn't use the goo-be-gone on your screen. 

Finally picked up my new Catleap from the DHL hub yesterday. The delays in receiving were definitely no fault to Green-Sum who shipped it quickly. My original delivery attempt was fast, about 3 days after ordering, meaning I could have had it last Thursday. Unfortunately, it was shipping to my home address and I didn't want it left on my front porch all day while I was at work. So, I arranged a pickup at DHL for the Tuesday, as I couldn't call DHL to tell them to hold it until it was already on the truck Friday morning. Anyway, my fuel pump went out on my car Tuesday on the way to DHL. Car has been in the shop for a couple days getting that fixed... Picked up car, then straight to DHL yesterday. Finally!

Unboxed and setup last night, only to have my SSD decide that it would pick last night to die as well. Hmmm... Signs? Anyway, couple hours later, system back up and running, and monitor looks good. Received the 190-240v power supply, but it seems to be working fine. Get's hot when in use, but nothing crazy. Probably going to pickup a replacement locally for about $30 to see if that runs a bit cooler.

Will run it through all the test this weekend, calibrate it with my old Spyder, and take some photos so I can join the club. No visible flaws at this point.

Details: Purchased from Green-Sum. Looks to be drop shipped directly from factory, all seals on box intact. Purchased cheap SE model. Looks to be about average light bleeding from lower left and right corners, but not too bad at first glance. I plan on doing some photo proofing after calibration this weekend, so that'll be the test. I'm coming from some old HP IPS monitors (HP 2335, 2065, etc), so it'll be interesting to see how I like it after adjustment. So far, the added brightness over my old panels is very noticeable, and welcome. Can't wait to run it through it's paces...


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> That is scary as I expect a Shimian any day now and I'll be using a MSI 6870. Several people are getting it to work with a 6870 however. Keep us updated.


green-sum clarified that he was confused and that my HD6870 is compatible.
As far as I have seen here and on other forums, the only important thing for the graphic card is to have a dual link dvi (both dvi-i and dvi-d) port.
I have tested it also on 4870, 8800gt and my old 4850, even if are not listed as compatible I have read of many that successfully run them with the catleap.
I have also made a video showing my tests 



: 




green-sum told me that:
"By the manufacturer's inspection, if it comes out monitor problem, DOA or other defect, we'll replace new one or refund.
But if the monitor does not have any problem, (there are lots of other situations) by the eBay policy the return and re-sending charges are buyer's duty."

I have tried with a compatible card and a brand new dual link dvi calbe, I don't think I can be blamed of wrong configuration so this must be a DOA case.

What do you think, is there anything more I can try having watched my experiments? (I already tried to re-install the drivers)

Thank you all!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> green-sum clarified that he was confused and that my HD6870 is compatible.
> As far as I have seen here and on other forums, the only important thing for the graphic card is to have a dual link dvi (both dvi-i and dvi-d) port.
> I have tested it also on 4870, 8800gt and my old 4850, even if are not listed as compatible I have read of many that successfully run them with the catleap.
> I have also made a video showing my tests
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> green-sum told me that:
> "By the manufacturer's inspection, if it comes out monitor problem, DOA or other defect, we'll replace new one or refund.
> But if the monitor does not have any problem, (there are lots of other situations) by the eBay policy the return and re-sending charges are buyer's duty."
> I have tried with a compatible card and a brand new dual link dvi calbe, I don't think I can be blamed of wrong configuration so this must be a DOA case.
> What do you think, is there anything more I can try having watched my experiments? (I already tried to re-install the drivers)
> Thank you all!


You can pretty much ignore the list of compatible cards. Just check if the card you have/want has dual link dvi ports on it. Usually abbreviated as DL-DVI.

Edit: So unless you feel like taking it apart and looking at the connections, it's DOA.


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> You can pretty much ignore the list of compatible cards. Just check if the card you have/want has dual link dvi ports on it. Usually abbreviated as DL-DVI.
> Edit: So unless you feel like taking it apart and looking at the connections, it's DOA.


Thank you for your reply.
My card is exactly this

Dual-Link DVI
Equipped with the most popular Dual Link DVI (Digital Visual Interface), this card is able to display ultra high resolutions of up to 2560 x 1600 at 60Hz.

I don't want to open it, because if the connections turn out to be good I will lose the warranty and I will stuck with a broken monitor.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> Thank you for your reply.
> My card is exactly this
> Dual-Link DVI
> Equipped with the most popular Dual Link DVI (Digital Visual Interface), this card is able to display ultra high resolutions of up to 2560 x 1600 at 60Hz.
> I don't want to open it, because if the connections turn out to be good I will lose the warranty and I will stuck with a broken monitor.


And I would assume you did a full uninstall/install of your drivers and tried multiple dual link dvi cords from the video right?


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> And I would assume you did a full uninstall/install of your drivers and tried multiple dual link dvi cords from the video right?


Yes tried uninstall and re-install newest driver as well as old ones, I brought a new dual link dvi-d cable
I even mounted my 6870 on a different pc.
In the video I show that I tried both cables, the one that came with the monitor and the new one.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Should I RMA my monitor if it takes 10-30 seconds to turn on. Like after the monitor falls asleep, it has trouble turning on, it restarts a couple of times, flashing red and green LED and finally turns on with no problems after this initial hiccup.


----------



## macschwag14

To Gainder

Hey, really dumb question, but are you for sure using a dual-DVI cable? I watched your video and at 2:46 when you hold the cable up to the camera it looks like a single dvi since I see two blocks of pins.


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macschwag14*
> 
> To Gainder
> Hey, really dumb question, but are you for sure using a dual-DVI cable? I watched your video and at 2:46 when you hold the cable up to the camera it looks like a single dvi since I see two blocks of pins.


Thank you for your interest, you are right at 2:46 it's a single link dvi, but that is the cable of my old monitor, the samsung you see behind, I have done to show that my card works perfeclty and that when I connect the catleap and windows is on, no monitor is detected.
At 6:30 you can see the pins of the cable connected to the catleap.


----------



## Dennybrig

Alright...

Guys, here i go... i have great news... I just received my Yamakasi Catleap and it is great. The monitor took ONE DAY to get from Soul to Mexico (very impressive). So let me begin...

Here is the picture of how the monitor arrived packaged, it looks a little scarce if you ask me:



Upon receiving it i unpacked it and i looked like this:



And of course i proceeded to read all the monitor box and found a hilarious bit







:



hahaha so i immediatelly tought:



Ok, proceeding with the unboxing, here are some pictures of the packaging:



















Now, in front of its 50 incher ancestor (my previous TV, 50" plasma):



Now with the monitor turned on:



This is the wallpaper i used, a pictue of my wifes eyes (God, i love those eyes...):





OK so this post was for pictures (sorry for the crppy pictures, those where taken with an iphone 3gs so really bad) My next post will be about the performance and initial findings


----------



## Dennybrig

OK, so i immediatelly proceeded to turn it on and found out two things...
First was that there were NO perceivable Dead pixels even with the images that you can find in internet to check for dead pixels... Zill, none...
Great news right? Well, the only deffect i can perceive in this panel is the white color....
If you look the monitor seeing in straight from the front you will see that if you see an all white image the image turns a little yellow when approaching the bottom right corner of the screen.
But this only happens when looking at all white images...
If you look to ANY other image that defect dissapears completelly!

The colors are breathtaking...
My mind is blown by the quality this monitor puts and for this price..... YAMAKASI WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE!!!!!

I could not be happier with my purchase..
But anyway think i will go for the SquareTrade warranty since i want to protect my investment...

The resolution is INSANE...

I tested Skyrim with my two GTX 680s and they were great but i think a third one will help boost the performance to get to 60 FPS...

Good day and thanks for all the comments!


----------



## Dennybrig

Another bit of information, in the picture i attached you can see that the monitor is "uneven" like if the bottom right part of the stand were dragging the right side of the monitor down and i think it is the case.
I will look forward to get an articulated arm


----------



## kazzjohnson

You can't hit 60 FPS at 1440p using SLI GTX 680? That's crazy.

Btw, nice eyes indeed.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> You can't hit 60 FPS at 1440p using SLI GTX 680? That's crazy.
> Btw, nice eyes indeed.


In almost every game he can. Maybe 50's in crysis and upper 30's / lower 40's in Metro 2033 w/ everything turned up. Other than that.. Everything should be at least 60


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> You can't hit 60 FPS at 1440p using SLI GTX 680? That's crazy.
> Btw, nice eyes indeed.


Thanks!


----------



## Rayleyne

MINES SO CLOSE YET SO FAR, LEAVE KOREA ALREADY *Cries softly* my eyefinity setup dissappears tommorow, since i sold it.


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> MINES SO CLOSE YET SO FAR, LEAVE KOREA ALREADY *Cries softly* my eyefinity setup dissappears tommorow, since i sold it.


You are not going to miss those bezels bro.... when you get yours (and hopefully it arrives free of defects) it will kick serious a*ss


----------



## Particle

Dennybrig: OT a bit, but--you live in Mexico?


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Particle*
> 
> Dennybrig: OT a bit, but--you live in Mexico?


Yes i do, Monterrey to be exact


----------



## Gallien

hmm hope my 470 OC SLI can push my games at this res!







purchasing a basic model without temp glass and speakers from Bigclotchcraft!


----------



## Dennybrig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> hmm hope my 470 OC SLI can push my games at this res!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> purchasing a basic model without temp glass and speakers from Bigclotchcraft!


It is great to hear that!
the pictures i just posted are from Big ClothCraft!

Good communication and service and the shipping time is INSANE


----------



## armoured

Just got mine. Used it for 10min and then I broke it. lol

To everyone who's planning on taking the stand off and using the VESA mount........BECAREFUL with this part when putting back the panel - you might snap the connector. It's REALLY flimsy.



There is a thin wire that connects to the PCB - IF you put back the monitor and you happen to catch that wire - it will break off the connector soldered to the button harness PCB......which is exactly what happened to mine.



I contacted my seller to get a pricing for another connector while I take mine to a shop that can re-solder the connector back to the PCB.

Unless I can hot glue the connector back to the PCB without soldering......any ideas?

P.S - The monitor works if I hold the harness to the PCB.....it's just really on - off so I think it needs a good secure connection back to the PCB.

Sigh......the best 10min ever......I just had to put it on a VESA mount and ruin everything..


----------



## Dennybrig

Wow thats sad to hear... anyway thanks for the advice i will be EXTRA careful when replacing the crap*py stand for a real one

I hope you solve that soon


----------



## ariakas46

Long time lurker, just got my Catleap from GreenSum a few days ago. Amazing picture quality, perfect panel, no bad pixels.







will buy again. The plan was to crack it open but after reading some of the posts i dont think i want to take the chance. I think spray painting the base to match the bezel color and gloss might be an easier way to fix this. Is there some kind of universal color code for spray paint available that might ease the matching process? Also i was thinking of getting a dual link dvi to HDMI cable to drive the monitor like this one here -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TH7T2U/ is that going to work? TIA.









Graphics card: EVGA GTX 670 FTW


----------



## Tehrawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoured*
> 
> Just got mine. Used it for 10min and then I broke it. lol
> To everyone who's planning on taking the stand off and using the VESA mount........BECAREFUL with this part when putting back the panel - you might snap the connector. It's REALLY flimsy.
> /SNIP
> There is a thin wire that connects to the PCB - IF you put back the monitor and you happen to catch that wire - it will break off the connector soldered to the button harness PCB......which is exactly what happened to mine.
> /SNIP
> I contacted my seller to get a pricing for another connector while I take mine to a shop that can re-solder the connector back to the PCB.
> Unless I can hot glue the connector back to the PCB without soldering......any ideas?
> P.S - The monitor works if I hold the harness to the PCB.....it's just really on - off so I think it needs a good secure connection back to the PCB.
> Sigh......the best 10min ever......I just had to put it on a VESA mount and ruin everything..


Hot glue will give you a really dodgy connection. It looks like it would be fairly easy to solder back on. I wouldn't be that proficient with a soldering iron. But even I would be able to fix that.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoured*
> 
> There is a thin wire that connects to the PCB - IF you put back the monitor and you happen to catch that wire - it will break off the connector soldered to the button harness PCB......which is exactly what happened to mine.
> I contacted my seller to get a pricing for another connector while I take mine to a shop that can re-solder the connector back to the PCB.
> Unless I can hot glue the connector back to the PCB without soldering......any ideas?
> P.S - The monitor works if I hold the harness to the PCB.....it's just really on - off so I think it needs a good secure connection back to the PCB.
> Sigh......the best 10min ever......I just had to put it on a VESA mount and ruin everything..


Looks like you could put some flux (a little goes a long way) on the connectors and carefully reheat it to restore electrical connection. Just be careful the pins don't solder to one another, it typically has a melting range of 90 to 450 °C (190 to 840 °F).


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoured*
> 
> Just got mine. Used it for 10min and then I broke it. lol
> To everyone who's planning on taking the stand off and using the VESA mount........BECAREFUL with this part when putting back the panel - you might snap the connector. It's REALLY flimsy.
> 
> There is a thin wire that connects to the PCB - IF you put back the monitor and you happen to catch that wire - it will break off the connector soldered to the button harness PCB......which is exactly what happened to mine.
> 
> I contacted my seller to get a pricing for another connector while I take mine to a shop that can re-solder the connector back to the PCB.
> Unless I can hot glue the connector back to the PCB without soldering......any ideas?
> P.S - The monitor works if I hold the harness to the PCB.....it's just really on - off so I think it needs a good secure connection back to the PCB.
> Sigh......the best 10min ever......I just had to put it on a VESA mount and ruin everything..


That should be real easy to solder back on. It's a combo surface mount and through hole part and it looks like they did not solder the through hole portion (the pins going thru the circuit board). if the repair place solder the through hole portion also, it will be a lot stronger than it originally was and should not need got glue.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> You can't hit 60 FPS at 1440p using SLI GTX 680? That's crazy.
> Btw, nice eyes indeed.


No idea what you are talking about, but with my 670 I can get 60 FPS.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Has anyone had issues getting their Yamakasi Q270 to work with Ubuntu 12.04 LTS 64 bit?


----------



## ivran

I just got mine set up. It's super awesome. Anyways, yes, the stand pretty much sucks, but I don't really think it's all that worth it to replace it. I don't really touch my monitor a whole lot anyways.
So, any advice or warnings from the experienced user?


----------



## ivran

Also, I ordered a standard model (no glass, no speakers), and there are volume keys and an audio in jack. Does this mean I have speakers or are those just there by default?


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivran*
> 
> Also, I ordered a standard model (no glass, no speakers), and there are volume keys and an audio in jack. Does this mean I have speakers or are those just there by default?


Just default, the speaker / no speaker models use the same case.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivran*
> 
> Also, I ordered a standard model (no glass, no speakers), and there are volume keys and an audio in jack. Does this mean I have speakers or are those just there by default?


They are just there by default








Just seeing the volume adjust being there which has no function bothers me a bit xD


----------



## kingjain

Hello. Just ordered a Q270 SE for my Macbook air. I've been reading about mini displayport to dual-link DVI adapters, but i haven't seen anything about this one sold on amazon- http://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Female-Adapter-Macbook-Laptop/dp/B003BHHIA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341020547&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+dvi.

I already ordered it, but sadly i doubt it will work because i haven't seen anyone mention it in this thread....must be a reason. Is it because it doesn't have a dual (mini displayport AND USB connection?) This confused me because it does specify in the description that it is for dual-link dvi.

Any enlightenment on if this will work, or what cable is recommended will be much appreciated. I've also read about the one from monoprice.....everything is about 10x the price than this though, so I thought it was worth a shot









Thanks!


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Has anyone had issues getting their Yamakasi Q270 to work with Ubuntu 12.04 LTS 64 bit?


If I end up buying one in a week or two I can test it for you it should work tho.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> If I end up buying one in a week or two I can test it for you it should work tho.


Thanks I have my Yamakasi working fine with Win7 but not Ubuntu. I have to change monitors to get Ubuntu to work.


----------



## JayXMonsta

could someone measure just there monitor


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Thanks I have my Yamakasi working fine with Win7 but not Ubuntu. I have to change monitors to get Ubuntu to work.


Oh really thats strange and that will suck for me since I only run Mac OSx and Ubuntu wonder why it doesn't work







that may be a deal breaker for me I figured it would.


----------



## ivran

Driver issues maybe? What GPU are you using and what particular drive are you running on Ubuntu?

As far as Mac OS X goes, it claims it's not mac compatible on the box, but I'm assuming that's got to do with dual-link DVI since Apple uses the panel that's in these monitors for some of their products.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Glad to hear it is not true, or are you saying that they did not say that down the thread? So are you saying you've had SquareTrade honor coverage? I have several items covered with them, so I am not trying to knock them just repeating what others reported here from their experience. What they say makes sense to me since these monitors (and their parts) are not for sale in the US officially. They have no FCC approval unless I have missed something.
> Someone asked earlier about the Catleap under osx86, shows as "DVI" here:


Wow thanks for checking this out for me







deff makes buying one a lot less worry some to know it will work lol


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivran*
> 
> Driver issues maybe? What GPU are you using and what particular drive are you running on Ubuntu?
> As far as Mac OS X goes, it claims it's not mac compatible on the box, but I'm assuming that's got to do with dual-link DVI since Apple uses the panel that's in these monitors for some of their products.


It works with Macs fine from what I have seen, Ive even seen them running on Intel 3000 Graphics cards on Macs which makes it seem weird it won't work in Ubuntu since Ubuntu is a lot more open Linux distro then OSx.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> Thanks I have my Yamakasi working fine with Win7 but not Ubuntu. I have to change monitors to get Ubuntu to work.


check this out








http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1440942


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Power brick & monitor run hot.
> power brick hard to keep my foot on it for more than 10 seconds. monitor is kinda warm touching the back.
> Thoughts?
> 
> 
> 
> The highest temp I've seen on mine is 127.7F. They got that hot/new electronic burn-in smell to them which I assume will go away after time.
> I did some thermal tests around the monitors. Face of the monitor was putting off 95.6 degress. Top of the monitor (air vents) around 105F.
> 
> Rough comparison with my Apple Cinema Displays - 84F around the entire monitor. There is no external power supply.
Click to expand...

Apple Cinema has a built in fan just like the MacBook Pro. This is why it is cooler.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingjain*
> 
> Hello. Just ordered a Q270 SE for my Macbook air. I've been reading about mini displayport to dual-link DVI adapters, but i haven't seen anything about this one sold on amazon- http://www.amazon.com/DisplayPort-Female-Adapter-Macbook-Laptop/dp/B003BHHIA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341020547&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+displayport+to+dvi.
> I already ordered it, but sadly i doubt it will work because i haven't seen anyone mention it in this thread....must be a reason. Is it because it doesn't have a dual (mini displayport AND USB connection?) This confused me because it does specify in the description that it is for dual-link dvi.
> Any enlightenment on if this will work, or what cable is recommended will be much appreciated. I've also read about the one from monoprice.....everything is about 10x the price than this though, so I thought it was worth a shot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks!


Nope, won't work. The real DL-DVI adapter have a USB cable too to provide extra power to the converter box. You must get one that has the USB cable as well. The cheapest you can find one is for 50 dollars.


----------



## kingjain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> Nope, won't work. The real DL-DVI adapter have a USB cable too to provide extra power to the converter box. You must get one that has the USB cable as well. The cheapest you can find one is for 50 dollars.


Ah i see. Do you by any chance have a link/reference to a reliable seller for such a cable?

Thanks, I really do appreciate it.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> No idea what you are talking about, but with my 670 I can get 60 FPS.


It was a question, not a statement. Read the post above mine, he claims he needs third GTX 680 to hit 60 FPS in Skyrim, that's why I said it's crazy. But it doesn't make sense.


----------



## ivran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> It was a question, not a statement. Read the post above mine, he claims he needs third GTX 680 to hit 60 FPS in Skyrim, that's why I said it's crazy. But it doesn't make sense.


Maybe he has other hardware bottlenecking? I would think ONE 680 would probably be enough.


----------



## truestorybro545

Should I buy one of these? Are they high quality and definitely worth the price?


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truestorybro545*
> 
> Should I buy one of these? Are they high quality and definitely worth the price?


Personally I think the crossover is the most well built... And it's worth the price if you want 1440p









Here's a review of the Shimian.. It's the one I chose (because it was the cheapest). I didn't like the way the catleap's looked and everyone said they lean to the right.


----------



## truestorybro545

I found the CrossOver. Very nice eBay pricing too. Which one is the best overall? I want to get into 1440p gaming and plan on getting a second 7970 for it (I am a 55 to 60 FPS all the time guy. T'is an unfortunate curse, but I can't help it).


----------



## djriful

Sorry if this already asked but it will takes forever to go through each posts.

Could someone measure up the height of the stand? From the table to the bottom edge of the monitor while in 90'C straight. I just wanted to know if I need to slip a few books under the stand if it is not as tall as my Apple Cinema Display.

Thanks!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truestorybro545*
> 
> I found the CrossOver. Very nice eBay pricing too. Which one is the best overall? I want to get into 1440p gaming and plan on getting a second 7970 for it (I am a 55 to 60 FPS all the time guy. T'is an unfortunate curse, but I can't help it).


They're all the exact same. Just comes down to the look of the outside and the price.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Out of the shimian, catleap , and crossover, which is the better buy? i hear people saying the catleap has horrible stands, and are thses monitors all still shipping with 1-5 dead pixels?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Sorry if this already asked but it will takes forever to go through each posts.
> Could someone measure up the height of the stand? From the table to the bottom edge of the monitor while in 90'C straight. I just wanted to know if I need to slip a few books under the stand if it is not as tall as my Apple Cinema Display.
> Thanks!


i want this to


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> i want this to


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Sorry if this already asked but it will takes forever to go through each posts.
> Could someone measure up the height of the stand? From the table to the bottom edge of the monitor while in 90'C straight. I just wanted to know if I need to slip a few books under the stand if it is not as tall as my Apple Cinema Display.
> Thanks!


11cm

*11 centimetres = 4.33070866 inches 







(Google)*


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> 11cm
> 
> *11 centimetres = 4.33070866 inches
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Google)*


cool







i also wanted the whole length


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> It was a question, not a statement. Read the post above mine, he claims he needs third GTX 680 to hit 60 FPS in Skyrim, that's why I said it's crazy. But it doesn't make sense.


You should quote next time


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Out of the shimian, catleap , and crossover, which is the better buy? i hear people saying the catleap has horrible stands, and are thses monitors all still shipping with 1-5 dead pixels?


Personal preference on aesthetics. I've had good experience with 2 of my ShiMians and had to return a CrossOver due to problems with it. I actually like ShiMian IPSB more.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> cool
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i also wanted the whole length


11cm from desk to bottom of bezel , 40cm from the bottom to the top of the bezel and 64.5cm wide from the outsides of the bezel.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Out of the shimian, catleap , and crossover, which is the better buy? i hear people saying the catleap has horrible stands, and are thses monitors all still shipping with 1-5 dead pixels?


I believe the quality is going up. There are more people saying that they are receiving displays with zero dead pixels now. I just got in a Catleap that had zero dead pixel. You are almost guaranteed a slightly uneven backlight though, but its only noticeable with a black screen. All of them are pretty much the same though. Pick which one you think looks the best physically.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingjain*
> 
> Ah i see. Do you by any chance have a link/reference to a reliable seller for such a cable?
> Thanks, I really do appreciate it.


Monoprice has them for sale: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2

You can find comparable ones on ebay for a little bit cheaper, but I can't link to those on here.


----------



## djriful

Kudo for the measurements. So it is about 1cm higher than my Apple Cinema.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivran*
> 
> Driver issues maybe? What GPU are you using and what particular drive are you running on Ubuntu?
> As far as Mac OS X goes, it claims it's not mac compatible on the box, but I'm assuming that's got to do with dual-link DVI since Apple uses the panel that's in these monitors for some of their products.


I tried GPT and MBR on western Digital W/GTX580 W?latest drivers. I ran xrandr -q in tty1 and it says "cannot open display". If I use another moniter in x terminal im fine.


----------



## samuraixzodus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> check this out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://ubuntuforums.org/showthread.php?t=1440942


I tried GPT and MBR on western Digital W/GTX580 W?latest drivers. I ran xrandr -q in tty1 and it says "cannot open display". If I use another moniter in x terminal im fine.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> 11cm from desk to bottom of bezel , 40cm from the bottom to the top of the bezel and 64.5cm wide from the outsides of the bezel.


ok thanks a million







for some reason someone on here thought that a 19 inch display would lineup well but you need like 15.4 inch displays since 40cm is like 16 inches.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> I tried GPT and MBR on western Digital W/GTX580 W?latest drivers. I ran xrandr -q in tty1 and it says "cannot open display". If I use another moniter in x terminal im fine.


hmm ill tell u if i think of anything its weird it wont work if i get one i will test it for sure


----------



## seg//fault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuraixzodus*
> 
> I tried GPT and MBR on western Digital W/GTX580 W?latest drivers. I ran xrandr -q in tty1 and it says "cannot open display". If I use another moniter in x terminal im fine.


I haven't gone all the way back through all the posts you've made about this issue, but it looks like you're trying to get your catleap to work with linux, yeah?

Is it not working AT ALL, or is it just at some tiny resolution like 800x600? I had this same problem. It stems from the Catleap using an EDID format newer than Ubuntu 12 can read. You have to manually create a new EDID file and tell your driver to use that.

Luckily for you, I come bearing links!

http://learnitwithme.com/?p=342

Link includes a downloadable EDID file as well, which I didn't have to change at all to get working.

I followed that little guide and I was blasting 1440p in glorious Linux! I hope this helps, if your problem is different, let me know. Before I found that guide I found out WAY MORE about X server than I EVER wanted to know


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> I believe the quality is going up. There are more people saying that they are receiving displays with zero dead pixels now. I just got in a Catleap that had zero dead pixel. You are almost guaranteed a slightly uneven backlight though, but its only noticeable with a black screen. All of them are pretty much the same though. Pick which one you think looks the best physically.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Personal preference on aesthetics. I've had good experience with 2 of my ShiMians and had to return a CrossOver due to problems with it. I actually like ShiMian IPSB more.


well since i hear nothing but how the catleaps have bad stands and lean to the right, thats outta the questions, and it seems alot of people been having problems with the crossovers lately, so im prolly going to stick with the achieva shimian.

questions if i buy a "achieva shimian PERFECT PIXEL" its guaranteed to have no dead, or stuck pixels?


----------



## samuraixzodus

Seg//fault

Thanks again!

Im on it and will keep you posted!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> well since i hear nothing but how the catleaps have bad stands and lean to the right, thats outta the questions, and it seems alot of people been having problems with the crossovers lately, so im prolly going to stick with the achieva shimian.
> questions if i buy a "achieva shimian PERFECT PIXEL" its guaranteed to have no dead, or stuck pixels?


It is highly likely. According to one seller, you get $10 back for each dead/stuck pixel, but it's probably going to not have any, as most monitors from that seller are already with very low to no pixel defects.


----------



## ivran

My catnip monitor has no dead pixels ore backlight issues so far (ordered from greenie). I'm really impressed. I know it's been discussed before, but I don't remember if a conclusions was ever reached on square trade. Will the square trade warranties cover these fellers?

Also, for those worried about the catnip's stand - it's pretty bad, but it's only noticeable when you touch or move the monitor. I can't tell that mine is leaning to the right or anything.


----------



## JayXMonsta

After using my 21.5 Inch Dell IPS 1080p Monitor for so long and using 2 19 inch normal dell monitors I am gonna go with one of these IPS 27 monitors its just to amazing everything from the colors to how many pixel they use in these types of monitors blows a normal monitor out of the water even the color just looks washed out on a normal monitor next to one of these.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> After using my 21.5 Inch Dell IPS 1080p Monitor for so long and using 2 19 inch normal dell monitors I am gonna go with one of these IPS 27 monitors its just to amazing everything from the colors to how many pixel they use in these types of monitors blows a normal monitor out of the water even the color just looks washed out on a normal monitor next to one of these.


You do know dell makes 27"& 30" ips monitors that are also 1440p&1600p, obviously alot more expensive ...


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> You do know dell makes 27"& 30" ips monitors that are also 1440p&1600p, obviously alot more expensive ...


Yeah I know I resell monitors and computers as my job







I can get a pretty good deal on Dell 27 inch IPS monitor but not one for $300 :O for sure gonna get 2 of these.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *armoured*
> 
> Just got mine. Used it for 10min and then I broke it. lol
> To everyone who's planning on taking the stand off and using the VESA mount........BECAREFUL with this part when putting back the panel - you might snap the connector. It's REALLY flimsy.
> 
> There is a thin wire that connects to the PCB - IF you put back the monitor and you happen to catch that wire - it will break off the connector soldered to the button harness PCB......which is exactly what happened to mine.
> 
> I contacted my seller to get a pricing for another connector while I take mine to a shop that can re-solder the connector back to the PCB.
> Unless I can hot glue the connector back to the PCB without soldering......any ideas?
> P.S - The monitor works if I hold the harness to the PCB.....it's just really on - off so I think it needs a good secure connection back to the PCB.
> Sigh......the best 10min ever......I just had to put it on a VESA mount and ruin everything..


Please follow the OP instructions on how to remove the arc. You DO NOT need to remove the connector at the OSD board. The connector can be removed much easier, and safer, at the DVI PCB. This is about the sixth person who has ruined their OSD board by trying this approach. All cables (well two of three) should be pulled from the DVI PCB - the third cable is the LED lead and that is a simple snap connector. If you follow the guide you will be happy.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> You do know dell makes 27"& 30" ips monitors that are also 1440p&1600p, obviously alot more expensive ...
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I know I resell monitors and computers as my job
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can get a pretty good deal on Dell 27 inch IPS monitor but not one for $300 :O for sure gonna get 2 of these.
Click to expand...

Those "A+" and "A" are going to be $600 minimum. They are selling them at $1000 and the lowest I've seen is $750.

Apple, Dell, Samsung carry the higher grades one and the "A-" goes into all Catleap, Crossover and etc.

It's kind of like GTX 680 with slight defect, turn one of the defect core off and called it GTX 670.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *ivran*
> 
> Maybe he has other hardware bottlenecking? I would think ONE 680 would probably be enough.


A single 680 will push well over 60FPS - it has been tested and proven on that "other" site. There has to be another reason for his problems or he is trolling don't know which. I can get skyrim with ultra settings to an average 102 on my OC Cats.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *truestorybro545*
> 
> I found the CrossOver. Very nice eBay pricing too. Which one is the best overall? I want to get into 1440p gaming and plan on getting a second 7970 for it (I am a 55 to 60 FPS all the time guy. T'is an unfortunate curse, but I can't help it).


They are all the same internally (basically). Same panel, different PCB approach to drive the signals.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Out of the shimian, catleap , and crossover, which is the better buy? i hear people saying the catleap has horrible stands, and are thses monitors all still shipping with 1-5 dead pixels?


See above - personal preference reigns here. You are reading people with problems. People without problems rarely post. I have 6 now - 5 perfect 1 with 1 dead pixel. It is luck of the draw.

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *subyman*
> 
> I believe the quality is going up. There are more people saying that they are receiving displays with zero dead pixels now. I just got in a Catleap that had zero dead pixel. You are almost guaranteed a slightly uneven backlight though, but its only noticeable with a black screen. All of them are pretty much the same though. Pick which one you think looks the best physically.


Quality will remain the same - these will always be A- panels from every manufacturer. So your chances of dead pixles vs. none are whatever the chances are of an A+ panel being downgraded at LG. It is a shot in the dark every time.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> well since i hear nothing but how the catleaps have bad stands and lean to the right, thats outta the questions, and it seems alot of people been having problems with the crossovers lately, so im prolly going to stick with the achieva shimian.
> questions if i buy a "achieva shimian PERFECT PIXEL" its guaranteed to have no dead, or stuck pixels?


Hey now, Cats lean to the left too! All of these monitors will have issues. So don't go by which one seems to be fine today since that will change tomorrow (based on how many people post pro and con reviews.) Overall, the defect rates are steady across manufacturers with the only difference being is it appears the Cat community is slightly more involved here on OCN.

The pixel perfect option has shown to be garbage depending on who you buy from. MANY people have reported dead/stuck pixels after purchasing the perfect pixel option. As I have stated many times before, I would never spend the extra money for the option since there are roughly 3.5 million pixels on these panels. Do you honestly believe you will see one without hunting for it? The one Cat I have with a dead pixel only appeared when I was a moron and used the program to find it - and that was after I had the monitor for four months. I would have NEVER seen it if I didn't go looking for it. Which leads to my second piece of advice - don't go looking for dead pixels. With so many there why find a problem when in this case ignorance is truly bliss?

Finally, if you want something other than a Cat - hit the bricks and post in the other monitor club forums!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

This is the monthly reminder to those interested in these monitors to please see the OP before you post - I cannot count how many questions are in this thread that are answered on page one.

Thanks for your time and attention!

Oh, and all you suckas with a Cat that fail to fill out the survey - please do so! It helps those people that do in fact take the time to review the FAQs.

Cheers!


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> This is the monthly reminder to those interested in these monitors to please see the OP before you post - I cannot count how many questions are in this thread that are answered on page one.
> 
> Thanks for your time and attention!
> 
> Oh, and all you suckas with a Cat that fail to fill out the survey - please do so! It helps those people that do in fact take the time to review the FAQs.
> 
> Cheers!


Gotcha!


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Those "A+" and "A" are going to be $600 minimum. They are selling them at $1000 and the lowest I've seen is $750.
> Apple, Dell, Samsung carry the higher grades one and the "A-" goes into all Catleap, Crossover and etc.
> It's kind of like GTX 680 with slight defect, turn one of the defect core off and called it GTX 670.


Oh ok good to know just wondering would you go with one of these for $300 or a Dell UltraSharp U2711 for $650 with a 3 year warranty.


----------



## subyman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> well since i hear nothing but how the catleaps have bad stands and lean to the right, thats outta the questions, and it seems alot of people been having problems with the crossovers lately, so im prolly going to stick with the achieva shimian.
> questions if i buy a "achieva shimian PERFECT PIXEL" its guaranteed to have no dead, or stuck pixels?


I'd recommend getting a proper VESA mount no matter what brand you buy anyway. Monoprice has a good one for 18 dollars.


----------



## cybercussion

Alight, I came down this morning to one of the power supplies blinking green and one of the monitors blinking red. Powered up and that monitor isn't powering on. I switched them so my main monitor would power up allowing me to login. Looks like I probably need to just locate a replacement since these run super hot and apparently can't be relied on.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> Alight, I came down this morning to one of the power supplies blinking green and one of the monitors blinking red. Powered up and that monitor isn't powering on. I switched them so my main monitor would power up allowing me to login. Looks like I probably need to just locate a replacement since these run super hot and apparently can't be relied on.


Sounds that way, the red blinking indicates a check power adapter. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage out on the two sets of pins top and bottom should both output at least 24vdc steady, no fluctuations. Be careful not to ground them out with the metal shield around them.


----------



## cybercussion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> Sounds that way, the red blinking indicates a check power adapter. If you have a multimeter, check the voltage out on the two sets of pins top and bottom should both output at least 24vdc steady, no fluctuations. Be careful not to ground them out with the metal shield around them.


Yep its alternating. 23.5, then 22.6 back and forth. The good one puts out 23.5V solid.
I'll note too, this was the PSU that was running 125-128 degrees F. The other monitor was running about 122 degrees.

I adjusted the brightness yesterday which seems to of lowered the temperature a little, but I didn't get a chance to put a infrared meter on it yet.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cybercussion*
> 
> Yep its alternating. 23.5, then 22.6 back and forth. The good one puts out 23.5V solid.
> I'll note too, this was the PSU that was running 125-128 degrees F. The other monitor was running about 122 degrees.
> I adjusted the brightness yesterday which seems to of lowered the temperature a little, but I didn't get a chance to put a infrared meter on it yet.


I have been reading about the folks with hot adapters, mine is warm but has not gotten anywhere near that hot. Your seller should get you a replacement or there are some posts with alternatives just down thread (last few days).


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rollOver*
> 
> I have been reading about the folks with hot adapters, mine is warm but has not gotten anywhere near that hot. Your seller should get you a replacement or there are some posts with alternatives just down thread (last few days).


If your country uses a 220/240/similar voltage system, it is highly likely your power bricks for these monitors will run cooler than for those of us on 110/120V systems. Running at low brightness setting also helps reduce adapter temperature.


----------



## colt54qg

Just ordered mine yesterday. Can't wait till it gets here. Do I need just any DVI dual link cable or do I need a high performance one that can transfer a certain Gb/s?

Thanks for all the info so far guys.


----------



## cybercussion

I fired off a note to green-sum. I guess worst case I find another 24V 5A adaptor and work out putting this connector / cable on it.
I checked my other PSU and its temperature has reduced a bit from where it was when I hooked them up. Originally 122F and now its reporting 85F.
Suspect like ElevenEleven mentioned its due to me reducing the brightness.

Has anyone had to replace the connection on a different PSU yet and if so, is there any color code to it so I can tell +Pos from -Neg?

colt54qg, the dual link DVI cable that comes with the monitor will work. Its a tad short in my opinion so I had ordered some 6ft cables from monoprice. I run 2 monitors so trying to get the 2nd monitor more off to the left or right was starting to max out the stock cables so I had to shift everything to the left towards the computer.

Make sure your video card supports 2560x1440 ( or 1600) max resolution and has a DVI Dual Link output.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *colt54qg*
> 
> Just ordered mine yesterday. Can't wait till it gets here. Do I need just any DVI dual link cable or do I need a high performance one that can transfer a certain Gb/s?
> Thanks for all the info so far guys.


the cable should come w/ the monitor..

it just has to be a *dual-link* dvi cable


----------



## Qu1ckset

Is red-cap still a good seller?


----------



## colt54qg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CpHaAiOnS*
> 
> the cable should come w/ the monitor..
> it just has to be a *dual-link* dvi cable


oh ok thanks a lot.


----------



## macschwag14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> If you have the regular version, not the multi input, then HDMI will not work since this has no scalar.
> 
> First test - connect it to another computer system if you have access OR if you have access to another GPU - try the other GPU (I don't think it is the card). I have run all my Cats on some pretty low level cards without issue (and have run them all on a single 560 card and 560s in SLI.)
> 
> Solid green means signal so if you don't get an image on another computer or with another GPU, then you have two choices: return it or open it up.
> 
> You could have the DVI PCB signal wire issue where it isn't seated properly in the panel PCB (if you open it you will see how the panel PCB can get disconnected or not be properly attached at the factory.)
> 
> Report back.


My monitor works now. I had to open it up (which was incredibly difficult) and noticed that a very thin and short wire that extended from the top of the screen was disconnected. This wire/cable did not look like any in the pictures I've seen throughout the forum. Anyway, I plugged the wire into a slot labeled CN1 on the PCB. I had an extra inch or so of free wire to work with so the process took a good 30 minutes trying to get it plugged in.

Looks absolutely beautiful, though! Thanks for the help!


----------



## matthewa5

Great thread, but its huge, i tried searching it for an answer, sorry if i missed it.. Here is my issue..

I just got my q270 from green-sum. It has just the one Dual DVI port. I got a dual link dvi-d cable from amazon. I plugged it up to my XFX 6950(flashed to 6970) ..
I get an image, but its all blurry/pixelated at 2560x1440. The lower i go in resolution, the more legible text becomes. But still, the picture is "off", the resolution just doesnt look right.
Colors and all look great though..

Here is a crappy pic from my nexus. It shows the text at 2560x1440 . Any ideas?


----------



## Particle

That definitely doesn't look right. It looks like Cleartype gone wild. heh What does it look like if you disable Cleartype, just for kicks? (Ultimately, I'm curious what a single line of white pixels looks like.)


----------



## MontyAC

You have a bad dvi cable there. Your new cable that you ordered should eliminate the problem.


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Is red-cap still a good seller?


Let's hope he is.







I ordered my Shimian on 26th, he shipped it on 27th, I hope it will arrive tomorrow.


----------



## MontyAC

My PCBANK had that problem and I got a Monoprice dvi cable that solved the font problem.


----------



## armoured

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Please follow the OP instructions on how to remove the arc. You DO NOT need to remove the connector at the OSD board. The connector can be removed much easier, and safer, at the DVI PCB. This is about the sixth person who has ruined their OSD board by trying this approach. All cables (well two of three) should be pulled from the DVI PCB - the third cable is the LED lead and that is a simple snap connector. If you follow the guide you will be happy.


I did follow the instructions to the dime.......except I did NOT remove any type of connections.......the cable got caught on the monitor and broke off..............That's why my post was to warn people about how fragile the connector is........

About those people who also messed up their OSD board.......did they manage to get new ones from the sellers in Korea? Or did they find a way to solder it back together?


----------



## leeroydamaster

I've run into the flashing green light issue from teh Catleap Q270. I followed the procedures, and took the necessary steps. I've used three different dual dvi cables. Other monitors work with my setup which is a GTX 560 TI. I've opened up the monitor and it was pretty different from previous pictures that I've seen.

Here's some pics of when I open it.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g175/theburritobuddy/2012-07-01132538.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g175/theburritobuddy/2012-07-01132554.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g175/theburritobuddy/2012-07-01132603.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g175/theburritobuddy/2012-07-01132611.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g175/theburritobuddy/2012-07-01132619.jpg

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g175/theburritobuddy/2012-07-01134341.jpg

The connections were on tight, and nothing appeared loose. I bought my monitor from bigclothcraft. At this point, I'm not sure what else there is to do aside from contact BCC.

One thing I did notice is that when I bought AC Adapter 24V 5A For EFL-2202W I can't use it to power the catleap because when it is plugged in the power brick automatically turns off. So I've been using the stock power brick (which has a faint led that is not blinking) and that just gives me the blinking/flashing green light from the monitor.

I did manage to get my system to recognize the monitor though. I heard the beeping noise when I connected the catleap to my computer but nothing appeared on the screen. It just remained black. Maybe I have a power issue?


----------



## matthewa5

update guys!

im super impatient.. So I just went and got a new dvi cable and its working great. wow this is a kickass monitor for the price.

Thank you all for your help and suggestion on the new cable


----------



## 5loth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leeroydamaster*
> 
> I did manage to get my system to recognize the monitor though. I heard the beeping noise when I connected the catleap to my computer but nothing appeared on the screen. It just remained black. Maybe I have a power issue?


Have you tried re-installing your graphics driver? I got to the same situation, where the screen would appear to be on (solid green light) but just a black screen. Reinstalling graphics drivers fixed this.


----------



## leeroydamaster

Yeh, I've reinstalled the drivers. Nothing still. I've been trying to contact bigclothcraft to get the rma in the works.


----------



## Hokies83

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127670

Are these working for catleaps? thru that mini dp to dvi adaptor?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127670
> 
> Are these working for catleaps? thru that mini dp to dvi adaptor?


DVI-D is all you need to know.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> DVI-D is all you need to know.


So thats a yes?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> DVI-D is all you need to know.
> 
> 
> 
> So thats a yes?
Click to expand...

'

Uh huh... what do you think?


----------



## Wiz33

Wow! A 7970 with only SL-DVI ports. Well, you'll need an active DP to DL-DVI adapter which would cost you over $70. Is there a reason why you want the MSI? My ASUS 7870 have DL-DVi so I'm sure their 7970 would too.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Wow! A 7970 with only SL-DVI ports. Well, you'll need an active DP to DL-DVI adapter which would cost you over $70. Is there a reason why you want the MSI? My ASUS 7870 have DL-DVi so I'm sure their 7970 would too.


Used stock in market places.. so i pay less.. im fine with an asus dc II as well.. wonder if 2 of those would fit on my ud5h....


----------



## Hokies83

There is always this one comes with 1100mhz over clock quite nice... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131471


----------



## cybercussion

So the 7970 has x4 MiniDisplay ports which would be the high end lines for 2560x1600, and much like my ATI 5770 (2) Mini Display Ports and then 1 SL DVI output. So I can only run a 1920x1200 monitor on that port which is fine for a 3rd monitor in portrait or landscape.

You'd have to run converters on the minidisplayports to DL DVI-D much like the same thing I'm going to have to do if I get a new MacBook Pro w/ Retina and convert the thunderbolt/minidisplay port if I was to try and use a CATLEAP Q270 on it. Monoprice has them compared to the price apple charges ($99 vs $69). Kinda stinks but its fun living between standards right? The HDMI out on the new MacBook only supports 1920x1200 similarly as well so you can't use the HDMI port from what I understand either.

Interesting side note on my power supply issue, I checked it after leaving it unplugged for 24 hours and its fine now. Put it on the monitor and it powered up. Puzzling.


----------



## GrJohnso

Ran my Catleap through it's paces over the weekend after getting it late last week... Stock power supply is hot, but works fine in the US. They added a little white sticker to mine to say it's fine for 110v, as the original Lodus(sp?) block only lists 190-240v range or something like that... Lowering brightness lowers heat output, and mine needed the brightness trimmed a bit anyway. Still, the block does run a bit warm, but no worse than many other bricks I've used for other devices in the past.

On a separate note, I did buy another 110v brick to use as a replacement, just in case, but it seems to have a defect. Not plugged into the monitor it shows a green light, all good. However, once I plug it into the Catleap, the light goes red and flashes, without giving any juice to the monitor. Looking at the pin setup on the monitor side plug, one pin is black, making it look like it was shorted out at one point, so I have to RMA it. So, I switched back to the stock brick and it still works without any issue.

And yes, the stand is a little wonky, but if you have a stable desktop and don't need to move the monitor around all the time, it's just fine.

As for quality, I compared the backlight bleed to my other old HP IPS panels, no different really. Off angle seems a little more noticeable on the Catleap, but head on, is just fine... I'm a glutton for punishment so I did do a bunch of dead/stuck pixel tests. I found just one, located about 2/3 down, 2/3 to the right corner. Would likely not notice it without running the tests and checking every square inch of it. So, as others have said, don't even bother looking and you'll probably never know if you have one...

Oh, and this was not the pixel perfect, just a regular old cheap SE from Green-Sum... Runs great, including full access to the UEFI setup on my ASUS Gene IV-Z motherboard running of an ATI 5970.. So, if you have one of the "incompatible" 5xxx series ATI cards and a modern motherboard, don't worry, you'll be fine. If you have an old BIOS based setup, just keep and old lcd around, just in case, but once you are up and running, you'll be fine.

As for performance, I keep AA off, and crank the rest of the settings up, and am quite happy. With this pixel pitch and a reasonable viewing distance, no AA is not a big deal.

Anyway, happy customer... Now to get a new backup power supply, just in case.


----------



## djriful

For those who are looking for adapters and cables, I've bought most of my display adapters or converters here. I hope OP can add this to the OP thread for future references.

http://estore.circuitassembly.com/


----------



## ivran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Wow! A 7970 with only SL-DVI ports. Well, you'll need an active DP to DL-DVI adapter which would cost you over $70. Is there a reason why you want the MSI? My ASUS 7870 have DL-DVi so I'm sure their 7970 would too.


I'm assuming he wants the MSI card because it's very easily one of the best graphics cards out there right now. If the MSI won't work, I'd recommend the Gigabyte with windforce. I have one, and I can tell you that you won't be disappointed.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivran*
> 
> I'm assuming he wants the MSI card because it's very easily one of the best graphics cards out there right now. If the MSI won't work, I'd recommend the Gigabyte with windforce. I have one, and I can tell you that you won't be disappointed.


i can agree with the gigabyte windforce cooler, i had a 6970 with this cooler, and i have two friends with the 7970 with the windforce cooler, pretty much silent at 100% fans


----------



## kazzjohnson

I might buy HD 7950 sometime in future, so you're saying Gigabyte's Windforce is reliable and silent?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> I might buy HD 7950 sometime in future, so you're saying Gigabyte's Windforce is reliable and silent?


yup, keeps it nice and cool, and very quiet.

Amd needs to get rid of there crappy reference cooler fans and invest in a better fans , and same goes with Nvidea, but the cooler on Nvidea's gtx690 is amazing, keeps it nice and cool, and runs just as silent as the windforce cooler, but it better do all this for the high price tag its selling for lol


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> I might buy HD 7950 sometime in future, so you're saying Gigabyte's Windforce is reliable and silent?


They are quiet but they cannot overclock well as other.


----------



## mikailmohammed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> They are quiet but they cannot overclock well as other.


From what i have seen the gigabyte cards over clock just as good as the others. That is why i want to get 1 myself. Might water cool it as well in the future.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mikailmohammed*
> 
> From what i have seen the gigabyte cards over clock just as good as the others. That is why i want to get 1 myself. Might water cool it as well in the future.


if your going to watercool, then buy reference, save you money!


----------



## plum

You can OC better with improved vrms designs over reference models though


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> They are quiet but they cannot overclock well as other.


Why not? Do you have source? I mean, it's the same chip and if the coolers and heat sink are good, why would there be any problems?


----------



## LBear

I am not happy right now. Its been 6 days since i got an email saying the monitor was shipped and tracking shows nothing on ebay or DHL website.


----------



## mikailmohammed

anyone ever bought from gmarket?


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear*
> 
> I am not happy right now. Its been 6 days since i got an email saying the monitor was shipped and tracking shows nothing on ebay or DHL website.


who did you purchase from


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> who did you purchase from


Purchased from bigclothcraft. According to the estimate delivery date its suppose to arrive tomorrow...


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear*
> 
> Purchased from bigclothcraft. According to the estimate delivery date its suppose to arrive tomorrow...


Give it an extra day if he shipped it via DHL, they were late about a day with mine. But rest assured that it will fall near the estimated arrival date.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear*
> 
> Purchased from bigclothcraft. According to the estimate delivery date its suppose to arrive tomorrow...


Have you tried contacting them ? (BCC)


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Have you tried contacting them ? (BCC)


I sent him a message through ebay. Not sure what u mean by BCC


----------



## Tomalak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LBear*
> 
> I sent him a message through ebay. Not sure what u mean by BCC


My guess is he meant BigClothCraft


----------



## Charly03

Hi everybody, just a follow up on my adventure with this new monitor .....
My power supply was bad, thank you for helping on the troubleshooting and the vendor send me a new one and now I'm getting the correct power in (24V).
so finally I'm able to turn it ON








But ... not picture still (black screen ) with flashing green LED on the monitor

MY GPU is PNY GeoForce GT430 running the latest NVidia Drivers 301.42

Do you think it can be a GPU compatibility ?

if yes can you recommend a GPU (as I mention before this will be use for general use - NOT GAMING- so as long as is able to work I'm OK ) also my PC power supply is only 300W. (my CPU is I3 & SSD HD so my power consumption is not much )

Ones again thank you very much for all your help

Charly03


----------



## dreadfulwater

Just finally got my Q270 Multi today. Totally satisfied. No one defect I can see so far. Got it from Green Sum. It's just glorious. Using the native color profile for now. Found that it looked best with my brightness at 50 and contrast at 75. its set to user in the menu, but I just left the color settings where they were. I tested Skyrim and Diablo, BF3 and I didnt perceive any lag with the multi. on my GTX 670. I even turned the res down to 1920X1080 and it looked great with no distortion.







PS3 looked great as well with Dragon's Dogma loaded up. Of course I'll keep messing with the color a bit, cause that's how we all roll here....

Admittedly I was a bit wary reading some of these posts, but I'm quite relieved at this point. pics:


----------



## Mattbag

Got my catleap from BCC it is amazing no dead pixels or anything. THe stand feels like it sucks but I tilted back the monitor and it seems balanced. My gpus run games great at 1080p at max or at medium settings for 1440. either way its amazing and I'm blown away that my cards can run this thing like a champ!


----------



## Hamy144

Ordered my Catleap from BCC perfect pixel
Hopefully not to get whacked with too much import duties but I should be able to claim the VAT back
I'll keep you updated


----------



## Wiz33

DHL sucks in providing tracking info. Pretty much by the time they have it up, it's almost at your door. I got a Crossover 2720 MDP pivot from BCC a few weeks ago and for the first 3 days after they shipped, nothing show up on the ebay or DHL link so I drop him a note. Got a reply back to use DHL's website the next day and sure enough, it finally showed up and it's already landed in the U.S. and I got it the morning after.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charly03*
> 
> Hi everybody, just a follow up on my adventure with this new monitor .....
> My power supply was bad, thank you for helping on the troubleshooting and the vendor send me a new one and now I'm getting the correct power in (24V).
> so finally I'm able to turn it ON
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But ... not picture still (black screen ) with flashing green LED on the monitor
> MY GPU is PNY GeoForce GT430 running the latest NVidia Drivers 301.42
> Do you think it can be a GPU compatibility ?
> if yes can you recommend a GPU (as I mention before this will be use for general use - NOT GAMING- so as long as is able to work I'm OK ) also my PC power supply is only 300W. (my CPU is I3 & SSD HD so my power consumption is not much )
> Ones again thank you very much for all your help
> Charly03


I looked up the PNY GT430 spec and it does not say if the DVI port support DL-DVI. For a cheap solution with low power requirement. I would say a ATI HD7750 (which support DL-DVI) since the 7000 series GPU use a lot less power and a 7750 system should draw under 200W under load.


----------



## dessoir

Hey guys,

I've been reading this thread on and off for a while and I'm finally considering purchasing this monitor. One thing I haven't found a clear answer on is the compatibility of this display with certain GPU cards. My question is:

This is my card:
http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102883&ATT=17-507-003&CMP=AFC-C8Junction&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10440897&PID=2138476&SID=dl-650722

Will the Catleap work with my GPU?

Thanks.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> I looked up the PNY GT430 spec and it does not say if the DVI port support DL-DVI. For a cheap solution with low power requirement. I would say a ATI HD7750 (which support DL-DVI) since the 7000 series GPU use a lot less power and a 7750 system should draw under 200W under load.


In reviews for the PNY 430 it shows that it is Dual-link DVI.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dessoir*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I've been reading this thread on and off for a while and I'm finally considering purchasing this monitor. One thing I haven't found a clear answer on is the compatibility of this display with certain GPU cards. My question is:
> This is my card:
> http://www.newegg.com/product/product.aspx?Item=N82E16814102883&ATT=17-507-003&CMP=AFC-C8Junction&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-_-na-_-na-_-na&AID=10440897&PID=2138476&SID=dl-650722
> Will the Catleap work with my GPU?
> Thanks.


According to the website, it has 2 dual link dvi ports so it will work.


----------



## Rayleyne

My catleap just got here, IT is flawless, absolutely flawless i am stunned and amazed, i did not think i could be this amazed by a monitor, it is absolutely flawless

No dead pixels, no splotches, no apparent bleeding, i think this is an A+ panel that got mistakenly put in the reject pile.


----------



## Gallien

what is this perfect pixel from BCC? someone PM me a link to the perfect pixel ones


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> what is this perfect pixel from BCC? someone PM me a link to the perfect pixel ones


Search on ebay for perfect pix catleap they will pop up.


----------



## Rayleyne

Green-sum also offers Perfect pixel for 379 dollars


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> In reviews for the PNY 430 it shows that it is Dual-link DVI.


You're right, I missed the the Dual -link HDCP part of the spec. In that case. The only thing I can think of is a bad DVI cable. I have no problem with the one that came with the Q270. but I think there were a couple report that the included cable was bad and switching to a new DL-DVI cable solve the problem.


----------



## viperspike

Bought two of the Catleap Q270 Monitors from Green-sum for $615 (included upgraded shipping via DHL) I emailed him before purchase and asked about double boxing or bubble wrapping the monitors. He stated to purchase and then send an email requesting extra packaging. Ordered Sunday evening and monitors arrived Friday morning (DHL received on Wednesday); so three days in transit total! Monitors arrived in extra layer of bubble wrap and a slight crushed spot on one corner.

Once out of the packing, both monitors have ZERO dead pixels, Also I cannot find any "dust" or smudges on the screens. One monitor does have the 220 Choke hiss sound quite bad. I will open it up this weekend and put some RTV on the chokes and see if it quiets down. If not I can do SMT soldering and may just replace the choke altogether if I can find a part number for them. Altogether a perfect set of monitors; minus the somewhat flimsy stands.

I am sitting these new monitors next to two Hanns-G 28" LCD TN panels running at 1920 x 1200 and the quality and resolution is night and day! If you are unsure about getting these monitors trust me you will not be disappointed!

- Viperspike


----------



## dessoir

Hey guys, thanks for the info on the compatibility of this lcd with my gpu!

Next thing I'd like to ask about is the "on screen display" menu on this monitor. Does it have one? Do all of them have one? I've read mixed opinions on this. Some say these monitors come in "lite" versions where there is no OSD.

I'm a photographer and considering this display for work, having an OSD to calibrate the monitor through hardware may be essential to getting the most accurate color.

Also, if any of you have a spyder4 colorimeter, could you please run it on this LCD and let me know the % of RGB gammut it's capable of displaying?

Thank you for your help in advance!


----------



## Charly03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> You're right, I missed the the Dual -link HDCP part of the spec. In that case. The only thing I can think of is a bad DVI cable. I have no problem with the one that came with the Q270. but I think there were a couple report that the included cable was bad and switching to a new DL-DVI cable solve the problem.


thank you Wiz33 & eternal7trance, for your feedback,

just to be safe I will get another GPU & cable for testing (after that the only thing left is that I got a DOA )

can you recommend a GPU & cable (the GPU need to work with my 300 w power supply )

thank again ...
Charly03


----------



## Charly03

Following up on my search for a GPU .. Do you think this one will work

XFX HD-657X-ZHF2 Radeon HD 6570 1GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150543

my local bestbuy has it in stock so will be easy for me to pick it up ...

base on the spec look ok (also reading the feedback on it, it works on low power supply , I have 300 W)

and for the cable I found this one on my local officedepot

Ativa DVI Gold Dual-Link Monitor Cable, 10'
http://www.officedepot.com/a/products/828510/Ativa-DVI-Gold-Dual-Link-Monitor/

this will be just for testing the DVI Cable as the price is a bit to much ....









TIA
Charly03


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dessoir*
> 
> Hey guys, thanks for the info on the compatibility of this lcd with my gpu!
> 
> Next thing I'd like to ask about is the "on screen display" menu on this monitor. Does it have one? Do all of them have one? I've read mixed opinions on this. Some say these monitors come in "lite" versions where there is no OSD.
> 
> I'm a photographer and considering this display for work, having an OSD to calibrate the monitor through hardware may be essential to getting the most accurate color.
> 
> Also, if any of you have a spyder4 colorimeter, could you please run it on this LCD and let me know the % of RGB gammut it's capable of displaying?
> 
> Thank you for your help in advance!


No, you need to calibrate on your GPU settings. Same thing like my Apple Cinema, no OSD.


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> what is this perfect pixel from BCC? someone PM me a link to the perfect pixel ones


honestly I wouldn't waste the money, BCC checks the monitors before sending so he makes sure there isn't any serious defects in it, and on top of that I ordered a regular non perfect pixel and I have not one dead or stuck pixel anywhere that I have noticed yet. My suggestion is make him an offer on ebay and see how low you can go if you really want him to check for a perfect pixel.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> No, you need to calibrate on your GPU settings. Same thing like my Apple Cinema, no OSD.


I believe the Multi version of this monitor has an OSD.

Maybe somebody with a Multi version can confirm and how much control you get with the OSD ?


----------



## Tomalak

God I hate you guys with your cheap hardware prices, free trade agreements, great courier services and low taxes!

Nah just kidding, love you, just jelly a lot when I look at the pictures!


----------



## mikailmohammed

For those with amd cards how do you adjust the screen to remove the blue tints??


----------



## dreadfulwater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dessoir*
> 
> Hey guys, thanks for the info on the compatibility of this lcd with my gpu!
> Next thing I'd like to ask about is the "on screen display" menu on this monitor. Does it have one? Do all of them have one? I've read mixed opinions on this. Some say these monitors come in "lite" versions where there is no OSD.
> I'm a photographer and considering this display for work, having an OSD to calibrate the monitor through hardware may be essential to getting the most accurate color.
> Also, if any of you have a spyder4 colorimeter, could you please run it on this LCD and let me know the % of RGB gammut it's capable of displaying?
> Thank you for your help in advance!


The multi has an OSD.. brightness, contrast, color type, input select. thats about it.


----------



## ivran

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazzjohnson*
> 
> Why not? Do you have source? I mean, it's the same chip and if the coolers and heat sink are good, why would there be any problems?


It overclocks well for air cooling. Hell, it's even overclocked by stock. The MSI probably overclocks better, but it's also a good bit more expensive.


----------



## hli53194

Can someone clear up some things for me? So "overclocking" these monitors is simply a software adjustment? Is it limited by the monitor itself or the GPU? What's with pre GTX680s not being able to do 100Hz+?

Also, is the model with glass super reflective?

Thanks


----------



## bubs

i have a 23 inch asus 120 hertz monitor now and am really looking into a catleap. just a few questions will i notice the lower hertz and which model there seem to be like 10 versions se le de no idea for me any help would be great i have a 680 as gpu so should be fine there


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hli53194*
> 
> Can someone clear up some things for me? So "overclocking" these monitors is simply a software adjustment? Is it limited by the monitor itself or the GPU? What's with pre GTX680s not being able to do 100Hz+?
> Also, is the model with glass super reflective?
> Thanks


When overclocking a monitor it's simply setting a custom resolution in Nvidia control panel to do 120hz or whatever you can get to. For AMD cards it's a different procedure. The OC capability is limited mostly by the monitor. Only the "2B" models are able to OC past 67hz. A 680 is the only card that can get to 120hz. Everything else can get to ~100hz.

The tempered glass model should be the same reflectiveness as a regular model.
Quote:


> i have a 23 inch asus 120 hertz monitor now and am really looking into a catleap. just a few questions will i notice the lower hertz and which model there seem to be like 10 versions se le de no idea for me any help would be great i have a 680 as gpu so should be fine there


You'll definitely notice a difference going from 120hz to 60hz. Which would you rather have, smooth movement or hi res?







I'd recommend the most basic model, the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE with no tempered glass, and no multi input. If you need speakers (which are garbage in this monitor) then go with the Non-SE.


----------



## n8236

My Catleap came with a single DVI cable ? I was under the impression it came with a Dual DVI cable...

Edit: nm, it did come w/ a DL-DVI cable. I confused it w/ a DVI splitter of sorts.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Posted this on the ShiMian page, but might be of interest here.

I have a strange effect on my ShiMian Lite model (pixel perfect).

Got it last week and was praising the quality, but noticed a stuck green dot yesterday. The very odd part is that it's less than a pixel. I found it on a black screen. It was *extremely* faint, barely noticeable. Putting up an all red screen and using a magnifier, I noticed the green dot as being about 30% the area of the lit adjacent red sub-pixel. It also had an irregular shape unlike the lit red which has a vertical, sharply defined, rectangular shape.
Anyone has a clue as to what is happening?

All other aspects of the monitor are excellent.


----------



## dessoir

Hey guys,

Two things, anyone with a colorimeter, could you please run it on the catleap and let me know the % of the RGB color spectrum it's capable of displaying?

Second, I'm looking to buy a desk mount bracket from Monoprice. What sort of a screw size/layout does Catleap have? How about any of the other Korean displays?

Thanks!


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charly03*
> 
> thank you Wiz33 & eternal7trance, for your feedback,
> just to be safe I will get another GPU & cable for testing (after that the only thing left is that I got a DOA )
> can you recommend a GPU & cable (the GPU need to work with my 300 w power supply )
> thank again ...
> Charly03


For cables are reasonable price:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209

I would try a new cable first and once the display works. Then I would look at a ATI HD 7750.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dessoir*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Two things, anyone with a colorimeter, could you please run it on the catleap and let me know the % of the RGB color spectrum it's capable of displaying?
> Second, I'm looking to buy a desk mount bracket from Monoprice. What sort of a screw size/layout does Catleap have? How about any of the other Korean displays?
> Thanks!


Color gamut on my Catleap, since they use the same LG panel it should be almost identical to the Apple Cinema Display 27" if you want a comparison.

It is a VESA 75mm mount so pretty much any modern stand will work. You will need to open your monitor and that will void your warranty, forewarned is forearmed!


----------



## GrJohnso

On the Achieva Shimian, they rate it at about 74.8% adobe color space... A very basic analysis and comparison done here:http://newcomputerbuild.com/tag/color-gamut/ Better than most, but not as good as the best...

As for the stand, yah, VESA mount, but be careful getting to it. Dig around in the threads on here for details...

Edited to change the link for a review, as the other one was a really poorly plagiarized version that came up in google first..


----------



## 5loth

I seem to have an issue where if I turn my monitor off, when I turn it back on the monitor has a blank screen (led is solid green), I have a dual monitor setup and the other monitor will display fine. if I change to duplicate displays rather than extend desktops, it kicks the yamakasi back into life, and then I can change back to extend desktop and set the yamakasi as primary screen. Have tried reinstalling the drivers, didn't make any change. Odd thing is also if I reboot the computer, I can't see the bios screen on the yamakasi while it is in a bad state, but if I have previously corrected it via the method mentioned above, I will see the bios screen, so it is beyond a graphic drivers issue. Bit of a pain in the ass, using an ati hd6450, thinking of trying an nvidia card to see if that makes any difference.

Anyone else experienced this?


----------



## Charly03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> For cables are reasonable price:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209
> I would try a new cable first and once the display works. Then I would look at a ATI HD 7750.


Hi Wiz33,
Finally I got my monitor to work the problem was the DVI Cable (defective) so after connecting the NEW one, I finally I got my monitor to work.









What a luck ... power supply was bad and DVI cable as well ... any way all is good now ... the vendor will refund the cost of my new cable (and had send a new power supply )

I did get the second GPU (HD6570) just for testing and after running both (my original one is GeForce GT 430 ) the Nvidia is much better on performance and color reproduction, so I will return the Radeon one ....

I probably will be ordering the DVI cable from monoprice.com (and then return the one I got from officedepot ) as the price is much better ....

Now that I got my monitor working do I need to calibrate ? what is my next steep ...

Ones again thank you very much for your help
Charly03


----------



## cybercussion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> For cables are reasonable price:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209
> I would try a new cable first and once the display works. Then I would look at a ATI HD 7750.


These cables are awesome. There really beefy, high quality and 6ft help if your machines farther away from your desk. I got some just for that reason and they work great.


----------



## Whitechapel

So finally, over a week later my 23" glorious Catleap shows up. Score! Only to wait the rest of work to go home and plug it in, to find it has a European style plug. What the hell man! This computer just doesn't want to come together. At any rate, now it seems I have to go buy an adapter for the plug. Problem is I'm flat broke until Friday, and I'd rather go to the store and pick something up rather than order online. I'd love to be up and finally functional by Friday.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dessoir*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> Two things, anyone with a colorimeter, could you please run it on the catleap and let me know the % of the RGB color spectrum it's capable of displaying?
> 
> Second, I'm looking to buy a desk mount bracket from Monoprice. What sort of a screw size/layout does Catleap have? How about any of the other Korean displays?
> 
> Thanks!


I was thinking about these. http://www.memoryexpress.com/Search/Products?Search=arctic+z2


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitechapel*
> 
> So finally, over a week later my 23" glorious Catleap shows up. Score! Only to wait the rest of work to go home and plug it in, to find it has a European style plug. What the hell man! This computer just doesn't want to come together. At any rate, now it seems I have to go buy an adapter for the plug. Problem is I'm flat broke until Friday, and I'd rather go to the store and pick something up rather than order online. I'd love to be up and finally functional by Friday.


The brick doesn't allow you to swap it out for a standard power cord?


----------



## Whitechapel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> The brick doesn't allow you to swap it out for a standard power cord?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> The brick doesn't allow you to swap it out for a standard power cord?


Dude, you just made my 4th of July.


----------



## n8236

Just received my Catleap from Green_Sum today!

1. The shipping speed from Seoul to San Francisco is ridiculously fast!
2. The screen is purfect, no dead pixels or much light bleeding (from what I can detect)
3. The stand, as everyone suggested, is pathetically wobbly
4. Attached the included DL-DVI to the Apple DL-DVI/Mini Display port adapter to my 2011 MBP works flawlessly


----------



## Whitechapel

Here is my new 23" Catleap! It is absolutely beautiful. I'm colorblind but the colors are so vibrant it's much easier on me! I would highly, highly, HIGHLY recommend this monitor to anyone. I'm actually thinking of picking up a second for a dual setup. As for the stand, I disagree with anyone who calls it flimsy. The stand is excellent! The overall monitor build is very well done. I can't think of a flaw on it.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitechapel*
> 
> Dude, you just made my 4th of July.


Happy 4th of July !!!


----------



## Whitechapel

Sorry, I haven't posted much on this forum bro!


----------



## Whitechapel

Everyone should just calm down and bask in the glory that is this immaculate monitor!

Also, I posted a pic of it on the previous page.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Whitechapel*
> 
> Everyone should just calm down and bask in the glory that is this immaculate monitor!
> Also, I posted a pic of it on the previous page.


Is it a 23" or 27" ?

I didn't know they done a 23", if it is a 27" then it looks like the resolution is not right.



Edit: I see 2300 on the monitor...wow, really didn't know they done a 23"


----------



## Whitechapel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Is it a 23" or 27" ?
> 
> I didn't know they done a 23", if it is a 27" then it looks like the resolution is not right.
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I see 2300 on the monitor...wow, really didn't know they done a 23"


It is indeed a 23". I got it because of my video card. The resolution is better for the card. Here's a link to my build:
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/b8DT


----------



## djriful

You know they have a white version of Catleap as well not just in different sizes.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> You know they have a white version of Catleap as well not just in different sizes.


Saw that the other day. Looks amazing, just wouldn't fit in my set-up at ALL. I really want to make a custom bezel/casing for my Catleap..


----------



## WhyCry

Has anyone ordered a white version? I contacted greensum and he says there is no pixel perfect option for this version. So are white panels more defective? It's the sexiest looking of all Korean monitors.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhyCry*
> 
> Has anyone ordered a white version? I contacted greensum and he says there is no pixel perfect option for this version. So are white panels more defective? It's the sexiest looking of all Korean monitors.


I want one but my other two monitors are black







also if my laptop has support for dual link dvi can I use one of these monitors with a AmazonBasics HDMI to DVI Adapter Cable?


----------



## WhyCry

I looked into the thread, but I might have missed that someone has one of those white panels. I have black monitor too, but I can't resist buying this white version. So I guess I'll be the first


----------



## JayXMonsta

Also how would Eyefinity look if I had a 27 1080p monitor in the middle of two of these korean monitors oh and will a HD 5770 alone be able to run all 3 of those displays or should I add ?


----------



## WhyCry

Ok guys, I have purchased a white version of Q270 SE. I will post the info of how my monitor works when I get it (but I'm pretty sure customs will hold the package for a while though).


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Also how would Eyefinity look if I had a 27 1080p monitor in the middle of two of these korean monitors oh and will a HD 5770 alone be able to run all 3 of those displays or should I add ?


It would look terrible and a 5770 would barely be able to run games on just one monitor @ 1440p. Even then, you would have to run them all at 1080p for it to look right which would defeat the purpose of getting the Catleap in the first place.


----------



## Jatt

Just got my CATLEAP and no dead pixels..


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jatt*
> 
> Just got my CATLEAP and no dead pixels..


Congratulations, when you get it set, post a picture and don't forget to fill out the owners club forms on page one!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jatt*
> 
> Just got my CATLEAP and no dead pixels..


Grats


----------



## djriful

What time does Green-sum ship out after purchase?


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> What time does Green-sum ship out after purchase?


next day, Though it takes a while for DHL to get their crap together.


----------



## n8236

This is quite the dilemma.

I just purchased my Catleap for my 2001 Macbook Pro and it's perfect!

But I am readying to buy the Retina MBP and the Catleap won't be able to take advantage of the pixel density. ARGH.

I wonder if Apple will upgrade their Cinema screens with retina. If they do, I guess a new Catleap with that density will be available??


----------



## viperspike

One of my monitors has the buzzing/hissing sound quite bad. I opened it up and applied epoxy to the two 220 chokes on the board, but it is still quite bad. I first applied RTV, but in the tutorial it said make sure you get it in the windings, so I removed RTV and applied epoxy. Does anyone know what part number these are to try and replace them? Or should I try and cover any other components on the board to try and get rid of the hiss.

Thanks, - Viperspike


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8236*
> 
> This is quite the dilemma.
> 
> I just purchased my Catleap for my 2001 Macbook Pro and it's perfect!
> 
> But I am readying to buy the Retina MBP and the Catleap won't be able to take advantage of the pixel density. ARGH.
> 
> I wonder if Apple will upgrade their Cinema screens with retina. If they do, I guess a new Catleap with that density will be available??


Well not going happen, their MacBook Pro line are at their limit resolution they can run.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> It would look terrible and a 5770 would barely be able to run games on just one monitor @ 1440p. Even then, you would have to run them all at 1080p for it to look right which would defeat the purpose of getting the Catleap in the first place.


Wait so if I wanted to I can run a catleap at 1080p? I was wondering in case I wanted to plug a ps3 in. Also I didn't know that these monitors used so much video ram and gpu processing excuse my ignorants. About how many 5770 cards would I need to make this work on 3 of these monitor at 1440p? I have an extra one I can get for cheap from a friend but it sound like I will need that one and a 6770 rite?


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Wait so if I wanted to I can run a catleap at 1080p? I was wondering in case I wanted to plug a ps3 in. Also I didn't know that these monitors used so much gpu ram and processing excuse my ignorants how many 5770 cards would I need to make this work on 3 of these monitor in 1440p? I have an extra one I can get for cheap from a friend but it sound like I will need that one a 6770 rite?


if you just want to run the desktop one 5770 might be able to run it, but if you plan on gaming on all three at the same time, i would recommend xfire 6950/6970, 6990, or sli 580s 3gb, and even then its going to make the cards work with two of the catleaps at max rez, if you were to have all three run at 1080p it would make it easier.

on my old rig, i had 2x gtx580s 1.5gbs and one dell U3011 @2560x1600 and it made them work to get decent frames at that rez, so i can tell you two 5770s or any midrange card is going to struggle especially with out vram

your 5770 will get horrible fps with one 27" 2560x1440 , defiantly under 30fps with everything maxed and obviously AA turned off


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> if you just want to run the desktop one 5770 might be able to run it, but if you plan on gaming on all three at the same time, i would recommend xfire 6950/6970, 6990, or sli 580s 3gb, and even then its going to make the cards work with two of the catleaps at max rez, if you were to have all three run at 1080p it would make it easier.
> on my old rig, i had 2x gtx580s 1.5gbs and one dell U3011 @2560x1600 and it made them work to get decent frames at that rez, so i can tell you two 5770s or any midrange card is going to struggle especially with out vram
> your 5770 will get horrible fps with one 27" 2560x1440 , defiantly under 30fps with everything maxed and obviously AA turned off


Ok got it so would 3 5770 work or should I sell the one 5770 I have right now and then get 2 or 3 6870 and xfire them.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Also I though the SE monitors can only run at 1440 can anyone confirm this.
Oh and what do the back of these monitors look with a VESA mount?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Also I though the SE monitors can only run at 1440 can anyone confirm this.


They can run at some lower resolutions, or at least 1920x1080 since I've tried that one myself. 1920x1080 looks 'fuzzy' to me. That's the best way I can describe it.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> They can run at some lower resolutions, or at least 1920x1080 since I've tried that one myself. 1920x1080 looks 'fuzzy' to me. That's the best way I can describe it.


So it looks worse then like a normal 27 inch 1080p monitor right?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> So it looks worse then like a normal 27 inch 1080p monitor right?


Yes, due to the Catleap not having a scaler.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Yes, due to the Catleap not having a scaler.


Ok kool thanks


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Ok got it so would 3 5770 work or should I sell the one 5770 I have right now and then get 2 or 3 6870 and xfire them.


honestly man just for one monitor id want 2x6970/6950s or a single 7970/680, im going to running a 690 for my 1440p screen, im ordering it tmr and i can tell you my fps when it arrives.
I dont know how eyefinity works with 2x1440p and 1x1080p monitor might just force you to play at 1080p on all three screens not sure.. make a thread in the amd graphics thread and you will get plenty of info on your setup you want to run and the best possible graphic card setup and how eyefinity would run with 2x1440p screens and 1x1080p screen

hope that helps!


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> honestly man just for one monitor id want 2x6970/6950s or a single 7970/680, im going to running a 690 for my 1440p screen, im ordering it tmr and i can tell you my fps when it arrives.
> I dont know how eyefinity works with 2x1440p and 1x1080p monitor might just force you to play at 1080p on all three screens not sure.. make a thread in the amd graphics thread and you will get plenty of info on your setup you want to run and the best possible graphic card setup and how eyefinity would run with 2x1440p screens and 1x1080p screen
> hope that helps!


Ok will do thanks


----------



## djriful

How long does it take for "Green-sum" to confirm for the product ship out with tracking #? It is almost 2 days now that I haven't heard a word from them. Or does he even email us any tracking?


----------



## Kazon

I just recently received my two catleaps from greensum and they are pixel perfect on my amd 7950 graphics card. I tried applying the color profiles listed in this thread and it works but only for one monitor. How do i make the profile work for both monitors?

I know how to apply it to both monitors in windows but he says doing that way is 8-bit and doing it through the 3rd party program is better cause it will use 10-bit dithering or something. anyway his zip file only applies it to display not display 2 or 3.

Edit: i figured out. had to use dspwin -d 2 to have it apply to the second monitor. banding looks much less now. thanks.

I am thinking of running eyefinity with 3 of these monitors but know that my 7950 even if i overclocked it probably could not handle it. However I was thinking for older games it might be able to handle it like left 4 dead or maybe if i just lowered some of the detail like AA etc. Anyone have an opinion on that? is eyefinity on a single 7950 or 680 viable if you just lower the detail in some games?

I also plan to try it with that new mod from arma 2 called DayZ www.dayzmod.com looks really cool.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> How long does it take for "Green-sum" to confirm for the product ship out with tracking #? It is almost 2 days now that I haven't heard a word from them. Or does he even email us any tracking?


It takes a couple days. I ordered on May 7 and got a message from ebay on May 9th that the unit have shipped. It took anther couple days before it shows up on DHL's tracking. Total transit time (with a weekend is between) was 7 days to my door (CA).


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> How long does it take for "Green-sum" to confirm for the product ship out with tracking #? It is almost 2 days now that I haven't heard a word from them. Or does he even email us any tracking?
> 
> 
> 
> It takes a couple days. I ordered on May 7 and got a message from ebay on May 9th that the unit have shipped. It took anther couple days before it shows up on DHL's tracking. Total transit time (with a weekend is between) was 7 days to my door (CA).
Click to expand...

+Thank you, I'm a bit relief.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Oh and what do the back of these monitors look with a VESA mount?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Yes, it's fine for gaming. Due to the lack of any extra inputs input lag is on par with a 720p TV.


What does this mean?
nvm so u are saying it has low lag? and what if I have 1 monitor that is multi and 2 non will it look weird?


----------



## kazzjohnson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kazon*
> 
> I just recently received my two catleaps from greensum and they are pixel perfect on my amd 7950 graphics card. I tried applying the color profiles listed in this thread and it works but only for one monitor. How do i make the profile work for both monitors?
> I know how to apply it to both monitors in windows but he says doing that way is 8-bit and doing it through the 3rd party program is better cause it will use 10-bit dithering or something. anyway his zip file only applies it to display not display 2 or 3.
> Edit: i figured out. had to use dspwin -d 2 to have it apply to the second monitor. banding looks much less now. thanks.
> I am thinking of running eyefinity with 3 of these monitors but know that my 7950 even if i overclocked it probably could not handle it. However I was thinking for older games it might be able to handle it like left 4 dead or maybe if i just lowered some of the detail like AA etc. Anyone have an opinion on that? is eyefinity on a single 7950 or 680 viable if you just lower the detail in some games?
> I also plan to try it with that new mod from arma 2 called DayZ www.dayzmod.com looks really cool.


I don't have first hand experience with those GPUs (I have HD 7850) so take my reply with grain of salt...

2560x1440 is HUGE resolution and you need at least HD 7950 to run it decently. Multiplying that screen size by 3 will probably require CF/SLI to be handled properly.


----------



## fullhd99

are already having new model Yamakasi 2703
Tempered Glass inside or outside???


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## WhyCry

^
Oh god, why haven't I waited for this model.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fullhd99*
> 
> are already having new model Yamakasi 2703
> Tempered Glass inside or outside???
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


If only it could overclock then most people wouldn't have to open it to put the pcb in.


----------



## Xzyrus

It's nothing special if it's just a redesign of the chasis. It's probably because there were so many complaints about a lop sided stand much like how they released a PCBANK SUPER PLUS which only had 1 folding joint instead of 2 since if positioned wrong with the 2 joints, your monitor could topple under it's own weight.


----------



## Rayleyne

ALRIGHTy, it sort of depends on what game your playing as to what gpu you need to use with a monitor of this resolution, Last night i felt like pulling my older cards out simply to see how they'd do, for games as long as you turn off AA, Like rift, Aion, Sc2 Wow, Tf2, Halflife games, Your fine to use something as old and trusty as a 9600GT, the reason why i say turn off the AA, is at 512mb (STandard, some models did have 1gb) IS because it will hit the vram limit at 2560x1440.

The very same games under a gTX 460 2GB, Could be run perfectly fine having no issues hitting 60 fps, with all details turned up, However running something like Bf3 at max would be suicidal, For the latest in games and details, Say BF3, Metro 2033, you will need a high end or multi gpu setup, 2 460's won't cut it, Two 7850's or 580s would do it fine though, However if you wanted to say run Nvidia surround or AMD eyefinity, with 3 2560x1440 monitors, You'd need the 680/7970 crossfire for sure, using the 4GB cards, or the stock standard 3gb 7970 cards, Please note that the 7970 will handle 7680x1440 alot better then the 680 would simply because of it's wider and higher memory bandwidth, I reccemend 3, To four 7970s at that resolution.


----------



## jam3s

Test


----------



## djriful

The new redesigned chassis of the monitor is better for people who wants to use the VESA mount without opening the whole monitor.


----------



## bubs

the only thing about this monitor the is making me nervous is the refresh rate for fps games and such any input on that would help a lot thanks


----------



## fores7fire

I have the Catleap 27 single DVI Dual link input, without speakers, and without glass. I know this is in the FAQ, but I may need some help with it. When I first got the monitor it would not display any video. After some trouble shooting I was able to get it to power on and show video on the display. After a few hours of use it started to flicker and look like it was trying to scale the video to the display. I turned it off and the back on, and it gave the same problem. The next morning I woke up and tried it again, and now it just displays the blinking green light with no video. I tried the DVI cable that cam with it on a different display and that worked. I tested the voltage on the power supply and it gave a reading of 30V. Is it possible that the internal DVI connector is loose? ( kinda what it seems like to me) Will opening the monitor void any warranty on it?


----------



## Mals

I know this is a long thread and I've looked through it a few times.. but can someone please post their OC rates and explain which monitors of these overclock?

Are people getting 100+hz? Are there certain varieties that overclock better than others? What are the conclusions on being able to hit ~100hz on 1440.


----------



## djriful

Most can go up to 85hz on average. Those 100Hz are D2 PCB board. (or B2... forgot the model #)


----------



## Mals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Most can go up to 85hz on average. Those 100Hz are D2 PCB board. (or B2... forgot the model #)


Is this "D2 PCB" board.. a special one you buy that is more expensive, etc? I guess I am not aware of all the variants this monitor comes in. I guess for now I stick with the 120 hz TN panel because I know it can do it... When oh when can we have 120 hz IPS for $350


----------



## seg//fault

Hey guys, was just notified that my second Catleap will be awaiting me when I get home. This one is from TA_Planet and "supposedly" uses the 2B PCB and is "supposedly" capable of 120Hz. It is a multi though, and most of you who have been hearing about these particular models know that it is actually the 2C PCB, and while it _can_ overclock, there is a lot of frame-dropping and input lag. I bought this because I wasn't sure if I would even notice these drawbacks, and if I do, then I will stick to my vanilla 2C for gaming, as that panel is spectacular even at 60Hz.

Since I've been unable to find some conclusive test results as to just how good (or bad, as it may turn out) these "2B" multis are in comparison, I'm going to do some tests using the multi and the vanilla, both at native res, and both with DL-DVI connection through my 690. Problem is, I'm currently building the rig, so I probably won't get to test till this weekend.

Just figured I'd throw it out there, in case anyone else is wondering about these panels, to say that I WILL be posting results when I get a chance to properly test it in the next few days.

This is all of course assuming that this new panel arrived safe and sound...









Cheers!


----------



## Venur

Hi I've just received mine and I'm wondering about powering it.

I just have to use my old standard power cord (of my 20" monitor) and to plug it on a standard 120v AC 60Hz outlet and to plug ti into the power brick then I plug the brick to the monitor ?
Even if the powerbrick state 220v AC 50Hz ?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Most can go up to 85hz on average. Those 100Hz are D2 PCB board. (or B2... forgot the model #)


2B is the earlier overclocking monitor (up to 120Hz) and most others can not get past 67Hz.


----------



## fores7fire

So mine is a dud. It doesn't do anything but blink green. All internal cable are connected, tried a different DVI cable, and tested the powesupply for proper output. I can't figure out whats wrong. I think I've learned my lesson.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fores7fire*
> 
> I have the Catleap 27 single DVI Dual link input, without speakers, and without glass. I know this is in the FAQ, but I may need some help with it. When I first got the monitor it would not display any video. After some trouble shooting I was able to get it to power on and show video on the display. After a few hours of use it started to flicker and look like it was trying to scale the video to the display. I turned it off and the back on, and it gave the same problem. The next morning I woke up and tried it again, and now it just displays the blinking green light with no video. I tried the DVI cable that cam with it on a different display and that worked. I tested the voltage on the power supply and it gave a reading of 30V. Is it possible that the internal DVI connector is loose? ( kinda what it seems like to me) Will opening the monitor void any warranty on it?


If you're getting 30 volts you have a bad power brick unplug it ASAP and get a replacement before you damage your panel! Both top and bottom should read a steady 24vdc.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fores7fire*
> 
> So mine is a dud. It doesn't do anything but blink green. All internal cable are connected, tried a different DVI cable, and tested the powesupply for proper output. I can't figure out whats wrong. I think I've learned my lesson.


I know the sting of that disappointment. My Catleap was completely DOA, and when I sent it back it was stuck in customs for 13 days. When they offered me a refund or a new monitor I grudgingly asked for another, I am so glad I persisted and now I am very happy with my purchase. If you've tried everything contact your seller, they will make you whole and this delay will be that much shorter.


----------



## fores7fire

Thanks man- I appreciate it. So you think I should try a different power brick first? I did already contact the seller, what I'm kind of worried about is the cost of shipping. How much did it cost you?


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fores7fire*
> 
> Thanks man- I appreciate it. So you think I should try a different power brick first? I did already contact the seller, what I'm kind of worried about is the cost of shipping. How much did it cost you?


You said you checked the voltage right? If it's 24vdc across the top and bottom set of pins without voltage fluctuations, that's probably not the problem. Based on what folks are saying, a cable has probably come loose or disconnected inside, etc. Don't open it though, you will void the warranty! I ordered from green-sum, they gave me a DHL return number so it didn't cost me a thing.

You _have_ checked to be certain you're using a Dual-link port on a capable video card, correct?


----------



## fores7fire

Yeah, DVI dual link for sure. Voltage is reading 30v instead of 24v, but the monitor did power on and display video when I first plugged it in. Hopefully the seller gets in contact with me soon.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fores7fire*
> 
> So mine is a dud. It doesn't do anything but blink green. All internal cable are connected, tried a different DVI cable, and tested the powesupply for proper output. I can't figure out whats wrong. I think I've learned my lesson.


Does your processor have a built in GPU? Have you checked BIOS settings to see that the proper GPU is used as a default output? Do you have any other monitors plugged in to your computer when you boot it? Is your monitor connected with a proper cable to the first dvi port on your card, if there are 2 dvi sockets on it?


----------



## rollOver

green-sum mentioned they read this thread FWIW


----------



## fores7fire

Bios is set to use PCI-Express as primary video card. I have tried both DVI outputs on my gtx460 with and without additional monitors plugged in. I have also tried it with my onboard video. I tried it with two different DVI dual link cables and on two different PCS.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fores7fire*
> 
> Thanks man- I appreciate it. So you think I should try a different power brick first? I did already contact the seller, what I'm kind of worried about is the cost of shipping. How much did it cost you?


Ask your seller for another brick, if it is that far over-voltage something is wrong with it.


----------



## GrJohnso

So, finally uploading a pick of my basic CatLeap SE. After a closer check, running it through some exercises and removing all external dust, I can not find any dead pixels.. Happy camper here...

Regarding the power brick, mine does have a nice white little sticker over it stating that it's okay for 110v, even though the factory printing on the brick itself only states the 190-220v range... Still going to get another brick, just in case. For now, this works fine...

Calibrated it with my old Spyder2, and that helped tweak the white balance to where it should be for some light photo & video work. Having a good monitor to work on makes it a bit easier to stay motivated to catch up on all my old photos... But, playing games is more enjoyable too, so now I want to check all those out again to see how they look. Definitely not helping productivity at home right now...

Anyway, so far, worth the gamble for me... $285 to my front door is hard to beat...


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fores7fire*
> 
> Bios is set to use PCI-Express as primary video card. I have tried both DVI outputs on my gtx460 with and without additional monitors plugged in. I have also tried it with my onboard video. I tried it with two different DVI dual link cables and on two different PCS.


I can't think of any other tests then, since you've already tried different cables and more than one video card / computer. Either the power brick or the monitor appear faulty. Just figured I'd ask just in case. Unless somehow all gpu outputs don't have proper dl-dvi configuration.


----------



## fores7fire

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I can't think of any other tests then, since you've already tried different cables and more than one video card / computer. Either the power brick or the monitor appear faulty. Just figured I'd ask just in case. Unless somehow all gpu outputs don't have proper dl-dvi configuration.


Thanks for the help. I'm hoping its just the power brick.


----------



## j0v1al

Just picked up a second catleap after buying one last week.

I have dual monitors going with a gtx 260.

Couple of observations leading to a question. I don't have time currently to go through all the posts but will in a bit, wondering if someone could answer even if it may be a repeat. The power brick with the first monitor is different, and is the 110V-240V one. The second monitor came with the 190V-220V.

As far as I'm concerned the monitor is working fine with the 190-220V. Are there known problems down the line with this particularly graded power brick in the US? Is it safe to use indefinately? I would like to avoid paying another 20-30 bucks for a power brick if I can, but will if there are known problems.

Also, there is definitely a noticeable difference in the default color/gamma/contrast profiles. The second monitor has a noticeable bluish hue. Haven't quite gotten it right (doesn't help that I'm colorblind). I will try following the guide in the initial post. The brightness capabilities are also quite different, for example, the minimal brightness on the second monitor is much less, the maximum brightness is similar. Any tips to get the color/gamma/contrast identical?

thanks


----------



## Gallien

What do you guys think of this new model they have up? Seems to be just a tempered glass model with new and improved casing and stand. Wonder if it comes in a model that doesn't have tempered glass?


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> What do you guys think of this new model they have up? Seems to be just a tempered glass model with new and improved casing and stand. Wonder if it comes in a model that doesn't have tempered glass?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


They look more back to traditional LCD monitor. Like the LG or Asus one. I prefer the distinctive look like the Crossover or the original Catleap curve design.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> They look more back to traditional LCD monitor. Like the LG or Asus one. I prefer the distinctive look like the Crossover or the original Catleap curve design.


The look of the crossover is what made me buy it over the simple looking shimian, i would have considered the catleap if the stand didn't get bad reviews


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> They look more back to traditional LCD monitor. Like the LG or Asus one. I prefer the distinctive look like the Crossover or the original Catleap curve design.
> 
> 
> 
> The look of the crossover is what made me buy it over the simple looking shimian, i would have considered the catleap if the stand didn't get bad reviews
Click to expand...

That is exactly my reason but it costs me a bit more. I know I can go duo VESA arm mount but those costs like $90-$200. And I had to buy an adapter for my Apple VESA $30 on top of everything.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> The Catleap 120hz Extremes are available again... I just bought one and I can't wait for it to arrive. Bit more expensive then the normal Catleaps but to be able to overclock it to 120hz, who could ask for more !!!


Can you PM me the product link?


----------



## sanctified

Just picked up three Q270's with the Perfect Pixel option. I cannot believe my eyes. Best...purchase...ever


----------



## steveotron

Has anyone ever had to deal with the dead/bright pixel policy that they have? I'm being told that black pixels that do not change color on different backgrounds are considered "dark dot," and that these are not considered defective by the manufacturer. And then pixels that show other colors on black backgrounds are considered "dead."

To me that's completely flipped around. Dead pixels stay black no matter what, and a "bright dot" is a stuck pixel that can change color depending on the background color.


----------



## LiL WaYNe

i heard dead pixels are dead for good, whereas stuck pixel/bright pixel might turn good after some time, so dead pixels are much worse than bright ones. dunno why manufacturers consider dead pixels to be better than bright pixel.


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fores7fire*
> 
> So mine is a dud. It doesn't do anything but blink green. All internal cable are connected, tried a different DVI cable, and tested the powesupply for proper output. I can't figure out whats wrong. I think I've learned my lesson.


I have the same problem, flashing green light issue (



).
As rollOver I brought it from green-sum and now it's on the way to Korea.
I also tested different graphic cards and a brand new dual link dvi-d cable.


----------



## Limes

I just got one of the last 120hz catleaps, expecting it to arrive sometime next week, can't wait!


----------



## WhyCry

As I understand:
Dead pixel means that the whole pixel including all three color sub-pixels are not working
Stuck pixel mean that only one sub-pixel is not working (stuck pixels sometimes start to work after a while)
Bright pixel means that all three sub-pixels are constantly illuminating.

Some sellers refer to dead pixels as both stuck and bright pixels. Sorry if that's a bad description.


----------



## HappyFace

Somebody got a Catleap and a Geforce 275 GTX (or 260 GTX / 280 GTX) and can say how high they can get overclocked (Hz)?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Limes*
> 
> I just got one of the last 120hz catleaps, expecting it to arrive sometime next week, can't wait!


Multi or non-Multi 2B ?


----------



## Chaoss

Hmm NVIDIA have removed the ability to add custom resolutions from their control panel. The resolutions area is blank along with the Refresh rate and Colour depth dropdown lists. My monitor gets to 114hz on my friends computer. However on mine I cannot add the custom resolutions as it says it's not supported, I can't even add lower refresh rates or any alternative resolutions which is a pain as I often use 2560x1080 for competitive fps gaming (gives me a wider field of view).

Has anyone found a work around for this? I tried an edid override using moninfo but unfortunately Windows only exposes 59hz and 60hz. I've emailed NVidia about this as I believe it may be a bug in their control panel software as trying to set the desktop scaling causes the application to crash


----------



## kaine1688

So i want to buy two of these atm, and a third one along with a stand later down the road for a portrait eyefinity or surround with a 670 4gb model. Has anyone found a good stand for these warlocks, and I read on of the ebay postings that you should not be using a DP to DVI converter for these, whats the deal with that?


----------



## NateZ28

I'll be joining the club soon as my 2B Catleap Extreme is paid for and will be shipping next week.


----------



## knightmetro

I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these as well. I'm coming from an Apple Cinema HD 30" @ 2560x1600, that I just sold, and want to move from my Samsung P2770FH. The Samsung is great, but I want the 2560x1440. After really comparing to the brightness and colors on the Samsung, I've concluded the Apple to be POOR and/or FAIL for $2,000 retail. (I only paid $600).

I'm running a highly overclocked and tuned i7 setup with a GTX 580 3GB.

What I want to do is pick up 3 of these. The middle one would need to handle high end gaming. I run BF3 and Crysis 2 on DX11 and full Ultra. No compromises. I'm used to running that at 2560x1600 without issue. I want that again, but in a setup that gives me three matching monitors.

Only the middle monitor would be for gaming. I may play with some of the new surround technologies later down the road, but not now.

What would be the best way to run three of these at full resolution? Even if I need to move up to a GTX 680. The 2 side panels would be more for browsing, video, imaging, etc. Only the middle one would be pushing it.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knightmetro*
> 
> I'm about to pull the trigger on one of these as well. I'm coming from an Apple Cinema HD 30" @ 2560x1600, that I just sold, and want to move from my Samsung P2770FH. The Samsung is great, but I want the 2560x1440. After really comparing to the brightness and colors on the Samsung, I've concluded the Apple to be POOR and/or FAIL for $2,000 retail. (I only paid $600).
> I'm running a highly overclocked and tuned i7 setup with a GTX 580 3GB.
> What I want to do is pick up 3 of these. The middle one would need to handle high end gaming. I run BF3 and Crysis 2 on DX11 and full Ultra. No compromises. I'm used to running that at 2560x1600 without issue. I want that again, but in a setup that gives me three matching monitors.
> Only the middle monitor would be for gaming. I may play with some of the new surround technologies later down the road, but not now.
> What would be the best way to run three of these at full resolution? Even if I need to move up to a GTX 680. The 2 side panels would be more for browsing, video, imaging, etc. Only the middle one would be pushing it.


Can your mobo support 2 video cards? because I would get another GTX 580 and plug it into the 4x/8x PCIe port and then get a new GTX 580 and run it in the the main slot and then just plug the middle one into that card and the other two into the old GTX 580 btw I am running a similar setup 3 of these will be amazing.


----------



## JayXMonsta

I have a laptop that has a HDMI port that supports up to 2560x1600 but how would I plug it in I will have a multi monitor but I don't think the hdmi on there will be 1440p??
This is for anyone that says HDMI can't carry anything over 1080p
"High-speed HDMI cables, or Category 2 HDMI, deliver data at a speed of 340 MHz. This type of HDMI cable is capable of handling the highest amount of bandwidth available. It offers the equivalent of a 1080p signal. This type of HDMI cable is ideal for displays with very high resolutions, specifically WQXGA monitors with resolutions of 2560x1600."


----------



## knightmetro

I'm running an EVGA X58 Classified E579 Limited Ed with 3-way SLI. I have 3 SLix16 lanes for video. 2x 580 3GB would be just fine. I would just need the fully leaded SLI to render to the 1 main monitor when cranking out the games.


----------



## FlashFir

Accidentally got some liquid on the screen (stupid noodles).

How do you guys clean your monitor? Not just water obviously because that would leave streaks. Windex is too harsh? What about like the target brand vinegar cleaner? That's supposed to be more gentle?


----------



## LBear

I had a delay due to my part. The monitor was shipped Wednesday and i received it today. Now that's what i call supurb shipping. Anyways got it hooked up and its 100% perfect no dead pixels or anything. Not sure why they use this stand with this monitor. Damn thing is huge though coming from an 24". Might have to enlarge my fonts or drop down to 1080 i already wear glasses lol. Ill post pics later maybe after school but overall im 100% satisfied and was worth it.


----------



## Shibuya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> I have a laptop that has a HDMI port that supports up to 2560x1600 but how would I plug it in I will have a multi monitor but I don't think the hdmi on there will be 1440p??
> This is for anyone that says HDMI can't carry anything over 1080p
> "High-speed HDMI cables, or Category 2 HDMI, deliver data at a speed of 340 MHz. This type of HDMI cable is capable of handling the highest amount of bandwidth available. It offers the equivalent of a 1080p signal. This type of HDMI cable is ideal for displays with very high resolutions, specifically WQXGA monitors with resolutions of 2560x1600."


Too bad there's a discrepancy between what is hypothetically possible and what is technically implemented by manufacturers.


----------



## j0v1al

1) Anyone know if the 190V-220V power brick will cause problems if used in the US graded outlets? It's working fine but want to avoid issues later.

2) My second monitor has a noticeable blue hue/tint. A quick google search reveals this is an issue on not only the Catleaps, but the other Korean rebranded monitors. Have yet to come across a solution to get monitors to match hues? Seems like its an intrinsic issue to the monitor but it seems it can be corrected or adjusted with video card settings.. On an all black background, the second monitor has noticeable "washed out" appearance, the black is not as black per say.

thanks


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Accidentally got some liquid on the screen (stupid noodles).
> How do you guys clean your monitor? Not just water obviously because that would leave streaks. Windex is too harsh? What about like the target brand vinegar cleaner? That's supposed to be more gentle?


I use plain water, and don't have streaks. I use an old piece of t-shirt, wet with hot hot water, and wrung out well. Then wipe the screen. Then I use a microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess water, and shine her up.

Works like a charm for me since day one.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I use plain water, and don't have streaks. I use an old piece of t-shirt, wet with hot hot water, and wrung out well. Then wipe the screen. Then I use a microfiber cloth to wipe off the excess water, and shine her up.
> Works like a charm for me since day one.


Same here. I have the model with no glass or anything and I just use paper towels and water.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Accidentally got some liquid on the screen (stupid noodles).
> 
> How do you guys clean your monitor? Not just water obviously because that would leave streaks. Windex is too harsh? What about like the target brand vinegar cleaner? That's supposed to be more gentle?


I use my saliva. True story.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Accidentally got some liquid on the screen (stupid noodles).
> How do you guys clean your monitor? Not just water obviously because that would leave streaks. Windex is too harsh? What about like the target brand vinegar cleaner? That's supposed to be more gentle?


I tried 10+ screen cleaner before. Most of them leave streaks after using. Only one does the job perfectly. It's called the OptiMist Prime by shaggymac. Cleaned the screen perfectly and 0 streak!


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Well, I just bought one of the newer models (I think?) with the tempered glass from BCC for $300. Crossing my fingers that I will get a good monitor and not a dud, although I'm a bit wary because only 5/10 monitors have been sold (not including mine) compared to the other non-tempered-glass version with built-in speakers, which costs $20 more. Hopefully the tempered glass isn't too full of dust either.

Kudos to all the people in this thread and the OP who took it upon himself to provide all that wealth of information. I was really looking at 30" Ultrasharps and kept complaining about how expensive they were until my brother showed me this thread







.


----------



## joon32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Accidentally got some liquid on the screen (stupid noodles).
> How do you guys clean your monitor? Not just water obviously because that would leave streaks. Windex is too harsh? What about like the target brand vinegar cleaner? That's supposed to be more gentle?


Do not use Windex at all. It has ammonia which can permanently scratch your display. Mild soap water or just water is fine with a microfiber cloth.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Accidentally got some liquid on the screen (stupid noodles).
> How do you guys clean your monitor? Not just water obviously because that would leave streaks. Windex is too harsh? What about like the target brand vinegar cleaner? That's supposed to be more gentle?
> 
> 
> 
> I tried 10+ screen cleaner before. Most of them leave streaks after using. Only one does the job perfectly. It's called the OptiMist Prime by shaggymac. Cleaned the screen perfectly and 0 streak!
Click to expand...

To be honest with those screen cleaning never works. It leaves some massive smudge (oil) after cleaning. It was terrible.

I end up using the liquid to clean eye glasses. Those works perfectly.


----------



## baldbrah

thinking about picking up two of these warlocks and getting rid of my U3011. Can't stand the antiglare coating and too scared to do the mod.

has anyone gotten a white one? it looks a bit more aesthetic than the black.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> thinking about picking up two of these warlocks and getting rid of my U3011. Can't stand the antiglare coating and too scared to do the mod.
> has anyone gotten a white one? it looks a bit more aesthetic than the black.


pm me if you decide your going to sell the u3011


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> pm me if you decide your going to sell the u3011


lol probably will once i get the two setup. but will be local thought, since i'm not gonna ship this monster out. if you happen to be in NYC, ill gladly sell it to you at a reasonable price, and it also have 1 and half year of transferable warranty left.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Well, I just bought one of the newer models (I think?) with the tempered glass from BCC for $300. Crossing my fingers that I will get a good monitor and not a dud, although I'm a bit wary because only 5/10 monitors have been sold (not including mine) compared to the other non-tempered-glass version with built-in speakers, which costs $20 more. Hopefully the tempered glass isn't too full of dust either.
> Kudos to all the people in this thread and the OP who took it upon himself to provide all that wealth of information. I was really looking at 30" Ultrasharps and kept complaining about how expensive they were until my brother showed me this thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I'm also looking for this monitor but was not sure because it seems nobody on ocn tried it first, and right now there is only 6 sold. I hoped yours go well and post some feedbacks and photos







The stand seems wayyyyy better and no hassle to put a vesa mount!


----------



## baldbrah

whelp, can add me to the club. just ordered 2 white catleaps from green-sum. hope both turn out fine. time to offload the u3011.


----------



## serge2k

I'm considering getting a couple of these next payday.

Is Green-Sum the best to go with or someone else?

Anyone know a good stand I can buy? I'm in Canada.


----------



## rollOver

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serge2k*
> 
> I'm considering getting a couple of these next payday.
> Is Green-Sum the best to go with or someone else?
> Anyone know a good stand I can buy? I'm in Canada.


green-sum and BCC both seem to have done well by the crowd here, now that we seem to be past a 'bad batch' last month. Even with them, everyone got sorted out in the end, if not please chime in anyone.

On the stand front, people seem to be liking monoprice, not sure how that would work out for you in the frozen north! Once again, people, please remember that opening your case to expose the VESA mount voids your warranty, and sellers are reading this thread reportedly. I am guessing it is one reason for the newer case style, since so many folks are mounting these.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shibuya*
> 
> Too bad there's a discrepancy between what is hypothetically possible and what is technically implemented by manufacturers.


So do you think there is no way to get 1440p off my laptop onto one of these?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *serge2k*
> 
> I'm considering getting a couple of these next payday.
> 
> Is Green-Sum the best to go with or someone else?
> 
> Anyone know a good stand I can buy? I'm in Canada.


I'm from Canada, I have no problem making an order with Green-Sum.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Shibuya*
> 
> Too bad there's a discrepancy between what is hypothetically possible and what is technically implemented by manufacturers.
> 
> 
> 
> So do you think there is no way to get 1440p off my laptop onto one of these?
Click to expand...

As long your laptop has DP or DVI-D supports which I doubt. What laptop model?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I'm from Canada, I have no problem making an order with Green-Sum.
> As long your laptop has DP or DVI-D supports which I doubt. What laptop model?


Its a Asus R500VM-MS71 and the graphics card supports 2560x1600 so in theroy if the HDMI port was 1.4v I could run it but I doubt it is and I doubt I can find a HDMI to DVI-D cable or does the HDMI on the muli monitor have HDMI 1.4v?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I'm from Canada, I have no problem making an order with Green-Sum.
> As long your laptop has DP or DVI-D supports which I doubt. What laptop model?
> 
> 
> 
> Its a Asus R500VM-MS71 and the graphics card supports 2560x1600 so in theroy if the HDMI port was 1.4v I could run it but I doubt it is and I doubt I can find a HDMI to DVI-D cable or does the HDMI on the muli monitor have HDMI 1.4v?
Click to expand...

http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-19-Pin-DVI-D-Plated-Connections/dp/B001AZNXV2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1231228930&sr=1-7

More info here: http://www.manhattan-products.com/en-US/products/5548-hdmi-cable


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-19-Pin-DVI-D-Plated-Connections/dp/B001AZNXV2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1231228930&sr=1-7


Wonder if the laptop has support for it tho


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-19-Pin-DVI-D-Plated-Connections/dp/B001AZNXV2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1231228930&sr=1-7


I was looking itno one of these abit ago. THye appear not to exist.

That will still give the same bandwidth as single DVI; a friend wanted to hook up his card via HDMI to Dual Link DVI and when he got it, he couldn't select above 1080p on these.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-19-Pin-DVI-D-Plated-Connections/dp/B001AZNXV2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1231228930&sr=1-7
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder if the laptop has support for it tho
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Manhattan-19-Pin-DVI-D-Plated-Connections/dp/B001AZNXV2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1231228930&sr=1-7
> 
> 
> 
> I was looking itno one of these abit ago. THye appear not to exist.
> 
> That will still give the same bandwidth as single DVI; a friend wanted to hook up his card via HDMI to Dual Link DVI and when he got it, he couldn't select above 1080p on these.
Click to expand...

HDMI 1.4 is still rare these days. I guess \.

DisplayPort need to rise up because it is the best port for display for now.







(This is not by Apple, fyi)

Is your friend on 1.4 port? Remember it is not just the cable needed to be 1.4. The output port needed to support 1.4 as well if I can remember.


----------



## Fultonloyn

So here is what I'm thinking....I have two ASUS 24" monitors...pick up one of these for the middle screen? Run surround on a few games?










Also, planning on SLI in the next few months. I don't really mind about the screens all not being the same size. If anything I can use the Yamakasi for gaming and the other two for browsing and what not. Convince me! Should be pretty easy.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fultonloyn*
> 
> So here is what I'm thinking....I have two ASUS 24" monitors...pick up one of these for the middle screen? Run surround on a few games?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, planning on SLI in the next few months. I don't really mind about the screens all not being the same size. If anything I can use the Yamakasi for gaming and the other two for browsing and what not. Convince me! Should be pretty easy.


Have the two Asus on VESA and make them stack vertically on each side of the 27"


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> HDMI 1.4 is still rare these days. I guess \.
> DisplayPort need to rise up because it is the best port for display for now.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (This is not by Apple, fyi)
> Is your friend on 1.4 port? Remember it is not just the cable needed to be 1.4. The output port needed to support 1.4 as well if I can remember.


yeah i agree its a great port that also doesn't have any issues with hardware issues like any other connector out atm so if it does get big u really could just plug as in many monitors as how many displayports there are on ur card with no converts and cap sounds so nice







. On that note will this connector work for this monitor obvious not as the third connector but the second monitor in a 3 monitor setup http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0045JTAC6/ref=aw_cr_item_title?qid=1341640909&sr=8-2


----------



## Fultonloyn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Have the two Asus on VESA and make them stack vertically on each side of the 27"


Just looked at some triple VESA mounts. Looked pretty reasonable..I could at least mount the 24"s in line with the catleap so the difference wouldn't be SO very noticeable. Also, my eyes wouldnt have to shift down.


----------



## Gallien

If anyone gets one of the new models be sure to post some pictures!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I end up using the liquid to clean eye glasses. Those works perfectly.


Yep, I use the little individual wipes that I have for my glasses, works perfect,


----------



## colt54qg

Just got my catleap q270 in from greensum. Zero dead pixels. It looks amazing.


----------



## colt54qg

How do I find out what PCB model my moniter has?


----------



## barkinos98

is it against the rules of OCN if one of the buyers just told the sellers name?

also, is one 670 enough for playing GTA5 or such new or upcoming games on this monitor @ 1440p? i was going for a sli, but then i found this monitor, and because of my limited budget, im thinking of cancelling one of the cards for this monitor. also, greensum sells perfect pixel and normal ones. what is the difference exactly?


----------



## exhibitO

Hey guys, I'm this little bit of a jam.

I love the catleap monitor, but here is the problem:

I'm building a new rig and I also plan on hooking up my spare ps3 console to it, I heard the HDMI multi version suffers an input lag problem, if I get the DVI version it doesnt have an upscaler and the 1080p display will look blurry on the catleap, can anyone please advice me?

Or should I be looking at smaller size monitors?

I'm also concerned with reading on this thing.


----------



## colt54qg

Throughout this whole post buyers are talking about the different sellers.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> Accidentally got some liquid on the screen (stupid noodles).
> How do you guys clean your monitor? Not just water obviously because that would leave streaks. Windex is too harsh? What about like the target brand vinegar cleaner? That's supposed to be more gentle?


Vizio Makes an LCD screen cleaning kit it is what i use.

http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-XCP200-Performance-Screen-Cleaning/dp/B004U5T2XM


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm this little bit of a jam.
> I love the catleap monitor, but here is the problem:
> I'm building a new rig and I also plan on hooking up my spare ps3 console to it, I heard the HDMI multi version suffers an input lag problem, if I get the DVI version it doesnt have an upscaler and the 1080p display will look blurry on the catleap, can anyone please advice me?
> Or should I be looking at smaller size monitors?
> I'm also concerned with reading on this thing.


anyone?


----------



## LC155

There's a new catleap that can be easily mounted?

Pictures! Details!


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> anyone?


If you don't mind the input lag, then you can buy the multi-input version. There are also other 27" monitors with multi-input versions that use the same kind of 8-bit LED panel, which you can find more information here.

However, I don't know if they suffer from the same input lag...so you'll have to check.

Other than that, you will probably have to buy a smaller monitor from a different company or look at other manufacturers.

Reading might a be a problem since it is a 27" monitor with a very high resolution. Text will look pretty small.

EDIT: Found some more useful information here.


----------



## exhibitO

Thanks you I will check with the input lag. What about increasing the text size in control panel, that won't help?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks you I will check with the input lag. What about increasing the text size in control panel, that won't help?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Forgot about that. I guess you could try it. I just took a look at it and a little warning popped up stating: "Some items may not fit on your screen if you choose this setting while your display is set at this resolution."


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Forgot about that. I guess you could try it. I just took a look at it and a little warning popped up stating: "Some items may not fit on your screen if you choose this setting while your display is set at this resolution."


What do you think is better gtx 670 2gb or 4gb vram im runnning a single monitor. What do you think?


----------



## Mygaffer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> If you don't mind the input lag, then you can buy the multi-input version. There are also other 27" monitors with multi-input versions that use the same kind of 8-bit LED panel, which you can find more information here.
> However, I don't know if they suffer from the same input lag...so you'll have to check.
> Other than that, you will probably have to buy a smaller monitor from a different company or look at other manufacturers.
> Reading might a be a problem since it is a 27" monitor with a very high resolution. Text will look pretty small.
> EDIT: Found some more useful information here.


Not on a modern OS, there are great scaling options.


----------



## snaimpally

I have been lurking for a while - thanks for the thread. I noticed that dream-seller is offering a Catleap Q270 multi (e.g., a/d board with multiple inputs, including hdmi) for $387. White only though. If it had been black, I would have pulled the trigger. In the description he mentions that this is a new model as of July 2012. All the other multis have been over $400, and since most sellers are now charging over $300 for the Dual DVI only model, this seems like a good deal for a multi input model.

Also, does anyone have experience with the Evga GeForce 210? I currently have this video card. The box says it supports Dual-link DVI and has a max res of 2560 x 1600, so theoretically it should work.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> What do you think is better gtx 670 2gb or 4gb vram im runnning a single monitor. What do you think?


Quite the debate there. I have also researched the topic and I think currently a 2 GB card should be more than suffice. By the time you need that much vRAM for a game on a single monitor, your graphics card would probably be too outdated to run it at its full capacity anyway. Therefore, I believe that a 4 GB solution would only be a good idea for a multi-monitor solution.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> anyone?


nope it won't work.

also can anyone tell me how bad is the input lag on the multi models and can you plug in a pc via dvi and run it at 1080p?
Thanks


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Quite the debate there. I have also researched the topic and I think currently a 2 GB card should be more than suffice. By the time you need that much vRAM for a game on a single monitor, your graphics card would probably be too outdated to run it at its full capacity anyway. Therefore, I believe that a 4 GB solution would only be a good idea for a multi-monitor solution.


Makes sense. Thank you. I'm more confident in my decision to go with the 2 GB card. Can you please elaborate the key advantages of the Catleap over something like this Samsung LCD apart from the max native res? thanks!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> nope it won't work and how bad is the inpu lag everyone? Also on the multi models can I run 1080p over the DVI port someone please try this for me


I'm confused are you saying you own one? or you want someone to test out the HDMI connection on the MULTIs version


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Makes sense. Thank you. I'm more confident in my decision to go with the 2 GB card. Can you please elaborate the key advantages of the Catleap over something like this Samsung LCD apart from the max native res? thanks!
> I'm confused are you saying you own one? or you want someone to test out the HDMI connection on the MULTIs version


Sorry that was worded very poorly and I was just saying that it won't work unless you get the multi model.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

WOW! The last time I was here was page 376 or something! lol So how does everyone like there Catleap!?

I have been using the Q270 Catleap for over 2 months now and love it, maybe 3 months now but.. can I use an HDMI to DDVI converter and it will still play? So to speak.

Basically my question is has anyone tried to Eyefinity the monitors yet? 3 way or anything, especially off 1 GPU.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> WOW! The last time I was here was page 376 or something! lol So how does everyone like there Catleap!?
> I have been using the Q270 Catleap for over 2 months now and love it, maybe 3 months now but.. can I use an HDMI to DDVI converter and it will still play? So to speak.
> Basically my question is has anyone tried to Eyefinity the monitors yet? 3 way or anything, especially off 1 GPU.


Im ordering 3 white ones on Tuesday







and im gonna buy a 7950 and game at 3x1080 and then get 2 more 7950 in 4 months and run on 3x1440


----------



## KyesaRRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Im ordering 3 white ones on Tuesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im gonna buy a 7950 and game at 3x1080 and then get 2 more 7950 in 4 months and run on 3x1440


Make sure that they are not the multi models as the input lag is much larger compared to the dvid only models.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KyesaRRi*
> 
> Dont the multis have a much greater input lag compared to the dvid models?
> Id be weary of gaming on these models.


I have been asking around







can't get a answer from anyone that has one I don't notice any lag on one of my monitor that has 8ms is it worse then that? kinda asking everyone with the multi monitors.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> I have been asking around
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> can't get a answer from anyone that has one I don't notice any lag on one of my monitor that has 8ms is it worse then that? kinda asking everyone with the multi monitors.


If you play with V-Sync On, you will really notice the input lag, but if you play with V-Sync Off you will not notice it... I have a multi input 2560x1440 monitor and I always play with V-Sync off anyways and I don't notice any input lag...

I've put in over two dozen hours with the monitor on BattleField 3 and I'm always top kills in close quarters maps...


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> If you play with V-Sync On, you will really notice the input lag, but if you play with V-Sync Off you will not notice it... I have a multi input 2560x1440 monitor and I always play with V-Sync off anyways and I don't notice any input lag...
> I've put in over two dozen hours with the monitor on BattleField 3 and I'm always top kills in close quarters maps...


Thanks you so much







I was getting worried that I won't be able to buy these because of this also if you set ur pc at 1920x1080 over dvi-d does it look normal?


----------



## JayXMonsta

I am thinking about getting the squretrade warranty should I just buy one? Do you guys think I will even have more then 1 monitor break in 3 years because if it breaks in a 1 to 3 year I won't be losing money if you think about it because the price of monitors are only dropping.


----------



## KyesaRRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> If you don't mind the input lag, then you can buy the multi-input version. There are also other 27" monitors with multi-input versions that use the same kind of 8-bit LED panel, which you can find more information here.
> However, I don't know if they suffer from the same input lag...so you'll have to check.
> Other than that, you will probably have to buy a smaller monitor from a different company or look at other manufacturers.
> Reading might a be a problem since it is a 27" monitor with a very high resolution. Text will look pretty small.
> EDIT: Found some more useful information here.


Great link, so the input lag on the multi models is much higher in some cases (11.4ms vs 17.5ms / 13.6ms vs 19.5ms) but i guess it comes down to how well you can perceive latency and what games you are playing.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Im ordering 3 white ones on Tuesday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and im gonna buy a 7950 and game at 3x1080 and then get 2 more 7950 in 4 months and run on 3x1440


If your going to do that then get an XFX Black Editon Dub D 7970. It's dropped down to like 460 bucks! I bought mine at 530. It OC's like a beast and the Q270's max res is 2560x1440.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So does anyone know how to Xfire the Q270 monitor? It only comes with 1 DVI-DL slot and the GPU only comes with one DVI-DL slot. Can I use a mini display port adapter or will it not work?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So does anyone know how to Xfire the Q270 monitor? It only comes with 1 DVI-DL slot and the GPU only comes with one DVI-DL slot. Can I use a mini display port adapter or will it not work?


You will need an "Active" mini display port to Dual Link DVI-D adapter...


----------



## jam3s

Oh man guys, I was thinking how sweet it would be to have 3 of these.

I have one on a wall mount; just thinking how sweet it would be to have three of them in tandem on a wall mount. Oh em gee.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Thanks you so much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was getting worried that I won't be able to buy these because of this also if you set ur pc at 1920x1080 over dvi-d does it look normal?


It looks fine and normal when I set it at 1080p...I tested it with my laptop that can only output 1920x1200p over HDMI, too and it works... I watch Netflix and some 1080p web videos...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> I am thinking about getting the squretrade warranty should I just buy one? Do you guys think I will even have more then 1 monitor break in 3 years because if it breaks in a 1 to 3 year I won't be losing money if you think about it because the price of monitors are only dropping.


I don't know if sqauretrade will actually cover these monitors because no one that I know of has actually had made a successful claim with square trade... what I do know is that they will not cover them because Squaretrade see these monitors as "AS IS" = no squaretrade service for them... but some people had some luck on getting squaretrade coverage on the "pixel perfect" versions...

Again... I haven't read or know of anyone making a squaretrade claim yet...


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Oh man guys, I was thinking how sweet it would be to have 3 of these.
> I have one on a wall mount; just thinking how sweet it would be to have three of them in tandem on a wall mount. Oh em gee.


LOL... are you Vietnamese? My Viet friends say "Oh em gee" alot!


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> LOL... are you Vietnamese? My Viet friends say "Oh em gee" alot!


hahah nope. Just kinda having a wet dream here


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> It looks fine and normal when I set it at 1080p...I tested it with my laptop that can only output 1920x1200p over HDMI, too and it works... I watch Netflix and some 1080p web videos...
> I don't know if sqauretrade will actually cover these monitors because no one that I know of has actually had made a successful claim with square trade... what I do know is that they will not cover them because Squaretrade see these monitors as "AS IS" = no squaretrade service for them... but some people had some luck on getting squaretrade coverage on the "pixel perfect" versions...
> Again... I haven't read or know of anyone making a squaretrade claim yet...


Wow thanks for the help with the info on the scalers thats golden I have been wanting to know that info for a while also I think I will just get one Squaretrade warranty hope it works if I need it








Also did you get 1920x1200p over hdmi? or hdmi to dvi?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> If you play with V-Sync On, you will really notice the input lag, but if you play with V-Sync Off you will not notice it... I have a multi input 2560x1440 monitor and I always play with V-Sync off anyways and I don't notice any input lag...
> I've put in over two dozen hours with the monitor on BattleField 3 and I'm always top kills in close quarters maps...


You've been very helpful in these discussions, I can't say thanks enough.









Out of curiosity, why did you pick the multi version, I'm still on the fence on DVI-D or Multi. I'm having trouble understanding why the input lag is present with using DVI-DL... shouldn't it only be associated with HDMI?


----------



## exhibitO

The Crossover 27Q Gold version with multi inputs (DVI-DL, HDMI) says the response time is 6ms, this can't be correct can it? http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Wow thanks for the help with the info on the scalers thats golden I have been wanting to know that info for a while also I think I will just get one Squaretrade warranty hope it works if I need it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also did you get 1920x1200p over hdmi? or hdmi to dvi?


It was over HDMI with my Gateway Laptop that has an i5-2430 CPU so the internal GPU can only support up to 1920x1200p... it auto filled the whole screen. I tried HDMI, for my GTX 670 and it did 2560x1440 too
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> You've been very helpful in these discussions, I can't say thanks enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, why did you pick the multi version, I'm still on the fence on DVI-D or Multi.


If I get only DVI-D, I may have to get an active display port to DVI-D adapter that may cost $100 if I want to go multi-montior later... Plus my previous monitor was a 27" 1920x1200 multi-input, and I never noticed the input lag people talk about... I know its there, but it doesn't affect my gaming (V-Sync off)... Also worst case is if the monitor or my GPU DVI-D port goes out, I at least have other ports to use or test the monitor... I'm actually using the one purchased from Microcenter that has DVI-D, HDMI, Display port, and VGA....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> The Crossover 27Q Gold version with multi inputs (DVI-DL, HDMI) says the response time is 6ms, this can't be correct can it? http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club


6ms is the response time, it is different than input lag...there is another thread on this forum that someone test and shows the actual response time... its buried somewhere and I cant find it right now,,,LOL


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> It was over HDMI with my Gateway Laptop that has an i5-2430 CPU so the internal GPU can only support up to 1920x1200p... it auto filled the whole screen. I tried HDMI, for my GTX 670 and it did 2560x1440 too
> If I get only DVI-D, I may have to get an active display port to DVI-D adapter that may cost $100 if I want to go multi-montior later... Plus my previous monitor was a 27" 1920x1200 multi-input, and I never noticed the input lag people talk about... I know its there, but it doesn't affect my gaming (V-Sync off)... Also worst case is if the monitor or my GPU DVI-D port goes out, I at least have other ports to use or test the monitor... I'm actually using the one purchased from Microcenter that has DVI-D, HDMI, Display port, and VGA....
> 6ms is the response time, it is different than input lag...there is another thread on this forum that someone test and shows the actual response time... its buried somewhere and I cant find it right now,,,LOL


Do you notice any tears when you have vsync off?


----------



## Whitechapel

I have been having a computer issue. What is going on... let's use an example. I set my downloads up before bed. I wake up, go to wake my computer (which is set to never sleep/hibernate... or so I think. I even enabled some sleep stuff in the BIOS like wake from PCIE thinking maybe there is an issue with the video card controller), My mouse kicks on like it's awake, the fans on the PC are on, but my monitor says SIGNAL LOST. I have to hard reboot it, the monitor always comes right back on. Now let's say I walk away for 15-20 minutes and come back, the monitor comes back on no problems.

Any thoughts?


----------



## Netdiva

Hello, Everyone
I need some advice please. I've been reading these forums and I'm extremely tempted to buy a q270. I have an alienware m18x laptop with 2 x GTX 580m cards configured for SLI. I have multiple ports on the laptop including: 1 x Mini-display port, 1 x hdmi out (1.4 port), and 1 x VGA port. I was looking at either the Multi or DVI-D monitors and I'm not sure which model I should get. I'm also not sure whether my laptop would work well with these monitors. I emailed green-sum and he says that they do not recommend using with any laptops because the graphic card might get overheated and get damaged. I'm basically looking for a gaming monitor. I'd like the resolution to hit 2560x1440 but I'm not sure if my graphics card will support it with the connectors I may use. With the DVI-D model, I will probably use a Mac DVI-D to mini-display port connector that I already own. With the MULTI model I could use either VGA or even the DVI-D to mini-display port connector. I'd like to know with either of these connectors will I get the desired resolution. I'd like to get some opinions on whether a laptop such as mine would have any issues with these monitors.

I really like these forums. I've learned alot!









Thanks in advance!


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Netdiva*
> 
> Hello, Everyone
> I need some advice please. I've been reading these forums and I'm extremely tempted to buy a q270. I have an alienware m18x laptop with 2 x GTX 580m cards configured for SLI. I have multiple ports on the laptop including: 1 x Mini-display port, 1 x hdmi out (1.4 port), and 1 x VGA port. I was looking at either the Multi or DVI-D monitors and I'm not sure which model I should get. I'm also not sure whether my laptop would work well with these monitors. I emailed green-sum and he says that they do not recommend using with any laptops because the graphic card might get overheated and get damaged. I'm basically looking for a gaming monitor. I'd like the resolution to hit 2560x1440 but I'm not sure if my graphics card will support it with the connectors I may use. With the DVI-D model, I will probably use a Mac DVI-D to mini-display port connector that I already own. With the MULTI model I could use either VGA or even the DVI-D to mini-display port connector. I'd like to know with either of these connectors will I get the desired resolution. I'd like to get some opinions on whether a laptop such as mine would have any issues with these monitors.
> I really like these forums. I've learned alot!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Not overheat... GPU are meant to stress and run games even it gets hot. It will simply FPS lag but i doubt it on GTX 580m SLI. The only port you can use is the Mini DP and you can only use 1 monitor of Catleap due to the input limitation.

Aside from that, those who are getting 3x these monitors. Careful if you graphic card has enough port to support DVI-D, you might need more adapters.

As of my GTX 680, there is 1x DP, 1x HDMI, 1x DVI-D and 1x DVI-I. I'm not sure if I can actually able to connect more than 2 DVI-D monitors. Third might need to be the Multi due to HDMI input. If someone can give a tip, would be great. I'm not that fond into Eyefinite / Surround.


----------



## deftonesmw

GTX 680 has a dvi-d and a dvi-i, both of which are dual-link. DVI-D is digital only, DVI-I is integrated digital and analog. A common misconception is that only dvi-d is dual-link but dvi-i can be also. Just use 2 dvi-d dual-link cables. DL-DVI


----------



## wkstar

Does anyone have the - New Tempered Glass 27" Yamakasi Catleap 2703 - that BCC is selling?
Is there still the dust under the glass issue? How does it look? The stand looks different, is it better or worse?
Is that strip at the bottom of the bezel shiny or just black?


----------



## Clergy

OK, after doing some reading on these monitors I still have one question. Has anyone here ran these for say 6 months to a year or more. My concern with this brand is longevity, after reading I know it displays a sharp image but for how long? I have had my ViewSonic 1920x1080 for 2 years this month and it has been rock solid. Would it be fair to assume I can expect the same from Yamakasi?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So how can I tri-monitor this bad boy if it only has DVI-DL? Also is 2560x1440 the max res on these monitors and how do these stack up against this new Crossover 27Q LED?


----------



## CrispyBread

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So how can I tri-monitor this bad boy if it only has DVI-DL? Also is 2560x1440 the max res on these monitors and how do these stack up against this new Crossover 27Q LED?


As far as tri-monitor setup for these monitors, you probably need a second graphics card.
For a comparison of these to the Crossover 27Q LED, they are the same exact panel, the just have different housings and stands for the panels themselves.

I actually think the Crossover has a nicer housing, since it is metal, and a stand that isn't made out of jelly donuts.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> As far as tri-monitor setup for these monitors, you probably need a second graphics card.
> For a comparison of these to the Crossover 27Q LED, they are the same exact panel, the just have different housings and stands for the panels themselves.
> I actually think the Crossover has a nicer housing, since it is metal, and a stand that isn't made out of jelly donuts.


Agreed. Also I am going to order another 7970 because the price dropped from 530 down to 460!!! CRAZY!!! I love 90 dollar drops! w00t w00t.

But yeah. I know 2 XFX OC'd 7970 can run 3 monitors easy, it's just would using an mini-d or an HDMI to DVI-DL adapter work correctly?.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clergy*
> 
> OK, after doing some reading on these monitors I still have one question. Has anyone here ran these for say 6 months to a year or more. My concern with this brand is longevity, after reading I know it displays a sharp image but for how long? I have had my ViewSonic 1920x1080 for 2 years this month and it has been rock solid. Would it be fair to assume I can expect the same from Yamakasi?


Too early to say at the moment. The longest ones have been around for 6 months or so, and seem to be holding up fine.


----------



## exhibitO

Can anyone comment on the advantages of having a catleap over this ASUS monitor?

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/756159-REG/ASUS_VE278Q_VE278Q_27_Widescreen_LCD.html

Apart from the resolution? This has 1920 x 1080 res.

Can someone break it down for me, please. I know catleap is bigger res, what else are the advantages?


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can anyone comment on the advantages of having a catleap over this ASUS monitor?
> http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/756159-REG/ASUS_VE278Q_VE278Q_27_Widescreen_LCD.html
> Apart from the resolution? This has 1920 x 1080 res.
> Can someone break it down for me, please. I know catleap is bigger res, what else are the advantages?


The panel itself -- It's an S-IPS panel, the same as the $1,000 Dell Ultrasharp panels. They're made from the same company (LG) and cost 1/3 of the price.

The only downside is you basically don't get any guarantee if it will get stuck/bad pixels unless you pay for the perfect pixel version. You also have nearly 0 insurance unless you want to pay a fortune to ship it back to Korea where they're shipping from.

It's a much better panel than the Asus one, but has a little higher risk as far as quality goes. Well worth the risk, I'll be purchasing one once I get the available funds......


----------



## Qu1ckset

May i ask where everyone is getting there us 110v power bricks from?? because if my crossover arrives with the 190-220v power brick with a sticker placed on it saying good for 110v i want to replace it.

are you guys just using ebay or something??


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> The panel itself -- It's an S-IPS panel, the same as the $1,000 Dell Ultrasharp panels. They're made from the same company (LG) and cost 1/3 of the price.
> The only downside is you basically don't get any guarantee if it will get stuck/bad pixels unless you pay for the perfect pixel version. You also have nearly 0 insurance unless you want to pay a fortune to ship it back to Korea where they're shipping from.
> It's a much better panel than the Asus one, but has a little higher risk as far as quality goes. Well worth the risk, I'll be purchasing one once I get the available funds......


There not the same panel as the 1000$ Dell panels...

The only thing that are the same is Screen res ips and there both made by LG...

Being a person who has owned both... I can tell you those 1000$ dell panels are much better panels... But 500$ better no...

There is no better Panel per $ then these catleap panels.. not as good as ultra sharps no.. But for 300$.. there close enough.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> There not the same panel as the 1000$ Dell panels...
> The only thing that are the same is Screen res ips and there both made by LG...
> Being a person who has owned both... I can tell you those 1000$ dell panels are much better panels... But 500$ better no...
> There is no better Panel per $ then these catleap panels.. not as good as ultra sharps no.. But for 300$.. there close enough.


No... they are the EXACT same panel, just a lower 'grade'.

You do realise those dells have wide gamut, which you probably look at and think looks better? Pit it up against an ACD, and you'll probably have a hard time differentiating from them (once both are calibrated)

Just take a look at this:

http://www.anandtech.com/Show/Index/5885?cPage=4&all=False&sort=0&page=1&slug=the-achieva-shimian-qh270-a-350-27inch-wqhd-sips-display


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> There not the same panel as the 1000$ Dell panels...
> The only thing that are the same is Screen res ips and there both made by LG...
> Being a person who has owned both... I can tell you those 1000$ dell panels are much better panels... But 500$ better no...
> There is no better Panel per $ then these catleap panels.. not as good as ultra sharps no.. But for 300$.. there close enough.


They're the exact same Panels.... Dell = LG's S-IPS A+ version. Catleap = LG S-IPS A-.

A+ and A- is nothiong more than QC (Quality Control) -- Also, Dell calibrates theirs so it looks great, and there are users already in this thread or other threads showing how they look exactly the same. The Catleaps need calibrated still and once you do, it's exactly the same.

Try it, you'll see.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> The panel itself -- It's an S-IPS panel, the same as the $1,000 Dell Ultrasharp panels. They're made from the same company (LG) and cost 1/3 of the price.
> The only downside is you basically don't get any guarantee if it will get stuck/bad pixels unless you pay for the perfect pixel version. You also have nearly 0 insurance unless you want to pay a fortune to ship it back to Korea where they're shipping from.
> It's a much better panel than the Asus one, but has a little higher risk as far as quality goes. Well worth the risk, I'll be purchasing one once I get the available funds......


Thanks, my main concern is gaming at 2560 x 1440, will it be too much strain on my GTX 670 2GB FTW?

Not a lot of games are made for such higher resolution, if I run at 1920 x 1080, wont it degrade the quality on my screen?


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> The panel itself -- It's an S-IPS panel, the same as the $1,000 Dell Ultrasharp panels. They're made from the same company (LG) and cost 1/3 of the price.
> The only downside is you basically don't get any guarantee if it will get stuck/bad pixels unless you pay for the perfect pixel version. You also have nearly 0 insurance unless you want to pay a fortune to ship it back to Korea where they're shipping from.
> It's a much better panel than the Asus one, but has a little higher risk as far as quality goes. Well worth the risk, I'll be purchasing one once I get the available funds......
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks, my main concern is gaming at 2560 x 1440, will it be too much strain on mt GTX 670 2GB FTW?
> 
> Not a lot of games are made for such higher resolution, if I run at 1920 x 1080, wont it degrade the quality on my screen?
Click to expand...

You have a 2gb of VRAM. 2gb of VRAM = made for larger than 1080p resolutions. I don't know the number crunching but since you have one of the top single cards, my instincts lead me to the conclusion that you should be fine. No SLI required for playable frames.

I have my 448 core (which runs at 570~580 levels) pushing this and it starts to see a lag in fps. 670 however will not (I bet).


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> They're the exact same Panels.... Dell = LG's S-IPS A+ version. Catleap = LG S-IPS A-.
> A+ and A- is nothiong more than QC (Quality Control) -- Also, Dell calibrates theirs so it looks great, and there are users already in this thread or other threads showing how they look exactly the same. The Catleaps need calibrated still and once you do, it's exactly the same.
> Try it, you'll see.


No there not..

There an A- panel of a older version of Ips..
Then there is 8bit vs 10 bit colors....

Research it.









However.. I did sell my u2711 and buy a catleap... reason being it allowed me to buy a HD7970 with the money left over..

Is it worth paying 500$ more for a dell.. no.... is it worth paying 200$ more maybe.

But like i saidi m not downing the catleap it is a great monitor and diff worth buying over a u2711..
for the pricre
but still there not the same panels.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> No there not..
> There an A- panel of a older version of Ips..
> Then there is 8bit vs 10 bit colors....
> Research it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However.. I did sell my u2711 and buy a catleap... reason being it allowed me to buy a HD7970 with the money left over..
> Is it worth paying 500$ more for a dell.. no.... is it worth paying 200$ more maybe.
> But like i saidi m not downing the catleap it is a great monitor and diff worth buying over a u2711..
> for the pricre
> but still there not the same panels.


Maybe you should do some research.. A+/A- has nothing to do with the "version" of IPS. These are all S-IPS monitors, with the same panels as the Apple Cinema Display. A+/A- is, as he said, related to QC. A- panels are more likely to have uneven colors, dead pixels, backlight bleed, etc.


----------



## exhibitO

Thanks guys. Who is the better seller green-sum or bigclothcraft? Or is either one fine. I'm going for the perfect pixel

Also is the q270 the same as q270se?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> No there not..
> There an A- panel of a older version of Ips..
> Then there is 8bit vs 10 bit colors....
> Research it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However.. I did sell my u2711 and buy a catleap... reason being it allowed me to buy a HD7970 with the money left over..
> Is it worth paying 500$ more for a dell.. no.... is it worth paying 200$ more maybe.
> But like i saidi m not downing the catleap it is a great monitor and diff worth buying over a u2711..
> for the pricre
> but still there not the same panels.


A- is not an older version. What are you talking about?

A- is graded as such because it did not meet QC in the factory to warrant it to be used in a DELL/Apple. Nothing to do with versions at all.

8bit vs 10bit... so? How many programs actually take advantage of 10bit these days? I could probably count it on one hand. Also, most of the monitors these days achieve it through emulation, so it's not true 10bit. If you'd take a look, the korean sellers also sell panels that do the same kind of emulation to get 10bit.

Same panels dude.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks guys. Who is the better seller green-sum or bigclothcraft? Or is either one fine. I'm going for the perfect pixel
> Also is the q270 the same as q270se?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


BCC. He and AW seem to be the best sellers, especially if things go wrong.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> It was over HDMI with my Gateway Laptop that has an i5-2430 CPU so the internal GPU can only support up to 1920x1200p... it auto filled the whole screen. I tried HDMI, for my GTX 670 and it did 2560x1440 too


oh really that's amazing news I have a laptop that supports 2560x1440 over hdmi and hopefully it works so I don't have to buy a $200 dvi switcher







u have been so helpful thank you so much


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> It was over HDMI with my Gateway Laptop that has an i5-2430 CPU so the internal GPU can only support up to 1920x1200p... it auto filled the whole screen. I tried HDMI, for my GTX 670 and it did 2560x1440 too
> 
> 
> 
> oh really that's amazing news I have a laptop that supports 2560x1440 hopefully it works over hdmi so I don't have buy a dvi switchers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> u have been so helpful thank you so much
Click to expand...

Is this the multi version?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Is this the multi version?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Yes it is







I'm gonna get a good grade hdmi cable that should be able to carry 1440p from my laptop to my monitor


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> A- is not an older version. What are you talking about?
> A- is graded as such because it did not meet QC in the factory to warrant it to be used in a DELL/Apple. Nothing to do with versions at all.
> 8bit vs 10bit... so? How many programs actually take advantage of 10bit these days? I could probably count it on one hand. Also, most of the monitors these days achieve it through emulation, so it's not true 10bit. If you'd take a look, the korean sellers also sell panels that do the same kind of emulation to get 10bit.
> Same panels dude.


There diff Panels...

Cat leap is S-Ips "1" A-Panel..

U2711 Is a S-ips "2" A+ panel


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Maybe you should do some research.. A+/A- has nothing to do with the "version" of IPS. These are all S-IPS monitors, with the same panels as the Apple Cinema Display. A+/A- is, as he said, related to QC. A- panels are more likely to have uneven colors, dead pixels, backlight bleed, etc.


All i do is research on everything i own and buy.

S Ips 1 IS not the same Panel as S-Ips 2.... if i have to ill dig up the post...

It is also written on the back of the respective panels in question...

It is the same panel as the U2710 Not the U2711.. Which uses the revision of S-Ips called S-IPS 2.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> There diff Panels...
> Cat leap is S-Ips "1" A-Panel..
> U2711 Is a S-ips "2" A+ panel


Are you even reading what we say about A+/A-?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Is this the multi version?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Yes it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm gonna get a good grade hdmi cable that should be able to carry 1440p from my laptop to my monitor
Click to expand...

How can I find out if my laptop supports 1440p

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## snaimpally

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> You've been very helpful in these discussions, I can't say thanks enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, why did you pick the multi version, I'm still on the fence on DVI-D or Multi.


A new model Q270 multi came out that is substantially cheaper - under $400, so the difference between dual DVI only and the multi monitor is around $50. Leaning towards the multi just for the versatiltiy.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Are you even reading what we say about A+/A-?


I know everything that they say about S-Ips-1 And S-ips-2 There is not much diff in the2.

You said they were the exact same panels.. Im proving to you in fact they are not... Even tho there not be much diff in the two.. they are in fact diff panels.


----------



## snaimpally

Q: How can I find out if my laptop supports 1440p?

A: Check the manual? Ask on a forum used by other owners of the same laptop? Google search (" max resolution")?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snaimpally*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> You've been very helpful in these discussions, I can't say thanks enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, why did you pick the multi version, I'm still on the fence on DVI-D or Multi.
> 
> 
> 
> A new model Q270 multi came out that is substantially cheaper - under $400, so the difference between dual DVI only and the multi monitor is around $50. Leaning towards the multi just for the versatiltiy.
Click to expand...

Yes yes but do you know about the input lag issue associated with the multis version. That's just what I'm nervous about. Also I don't think you can order a pixel perfect multi version on ebay. I'm yet to see it.

Although someone reported the input lag is not noticeable with V-Sync turned off.

I still don't know what to choose. I'll be using the monitor primarily standalone but I might decide to plug in an hdmi in the future. I don't want it to an Achilles heel for me.

Will a DVI-D HDMI cable solve my problem?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> They're the exact same Panels.... Dell = LG's S-IPS A+ version. Catleap = LG S-IPS A-.
> A+ and A- is nothiong more than QC (Quality Control) -- Also, Dell calibrates theirs so it looks great, and there are users already in this thread or other threads showing how they look exactly the same. The Catleaps need calibrated still and once you do, it's exactly the same.
> Try it, you'll see.


How do I calibrate it?


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I know everything that they say about S-Ips-1 And S-ips-2 There is not much diff in the2.
> You said they were the exact same panels.. Im proving to you in fact they are not... Even tho there not be much diff in the two.. they are in fact diff panels.


You're really arguing schematics here. Same panels, varying degrees of quality doesn't make them entirely different.

Either way, the difference between the two is barely noticeable, if at all.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> How do I calibrate it?


Read the first post in this thread and use the forum search tool or even google, info on it everywhere


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> You're really arguing schematics here. Same panels, varying degrees of quality doesn't make them entirely different.
> Either way, the difference between the two is barely noticeable, if at all.


IM not arguing man.. im just putting correct information out there Alooooooot of people read this thread..

The S-IPS 1 panel Which is what the catleap has is a diff Manufactured Panel then the Updated version the S-IPS 2 Which the u2711 and the u3011 have. That has nothing to do with A+ or A- it is a whole diff panel altogether.

I own a Cat leap to i Sold my U2711 and got it...

It is The responsibility of sen members to make sure correct information is placed.. Diff on a Very very viewed thread such as this one.

And it is not something many ppl would know. You have had to see a picture of the back of both panels removed to see the information written on both.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *snaimpally*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> You've been very helpful in these discussions, I can't say thanks enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of curiosity, why did you pick the multi version, I'm still on the fence on DVI-D or Multi.
> 
> 
> 
> A new model Q270 multi came out that is substantially cheaper - under $400, so the difference between dual DVI only and the multi monitor is around $50. Leaning towards the multi just for the versatiltiy.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Yes yes but do you know about the input lag issue associated with the multis version. That's just what I'm nervous about. Also I don't think you can order a pixel perfect multi version on ebay. I'm yet to see it.
> 
> Although someone reported the input lag is not noticeable with V-Sync turned off.
> 
> I still don't know what to choose. I'll be using the monitor primarily standalone but I might decide to plug in an hdmi in the future. I don't want it to an Achilles heel for me.
> 
> Will a DVI-D HDMI cable solve my problem?
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Click to expand...

Can anyone be of assistance?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> IM not arguing man.. im just putting correct information out there Alooooooot of people read this thread..
> The S-IPS 1 panel Which is what the catleap has is a diff Manufactured Panel then the Updated version the S-IPS 2 Which the u2711 and the u3011 have. That has nothing to do with A+ or A- it is a whole diff panel altogether.
> I own a Cat leap to i Sold my U2711 and got it...
> It is The responsibility of sen members to make sure correct information is placed.. Diff on a Very very viewed thread such as this one.
> And it is not something many ppl would know. You have had to see a picture of the back of both panels removed to see the information written on both.


Are you talking about the updated panel from May (which a lot of the sellers claim to now use)?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can anyone be of assistance?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


\

Basically the Monitors control board that has the mulitple input which can scale resolutions such as 1080p to fit a 1440p monitor. Even if you use a DVI-D to HDMI adapter... as long as it has multiple inputs it will have input lag...


----------



## djriful

Some panels are revised simple as that but it is under the same family. Same situation to some of the wireless router for example, the NetGear WDR3700v2 there are 3 types of the *v2* not counting v1 or v3. One of them has 16mb ram other has 64mb. One has Atheros chip and the other don't.

So let put it this way. Catleap/Crossover and etc. are the same family panel as Dell U27xx and Apple 27". =) happy ending.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Are you talking about the updated panel from May (which a lot of the sellers claim to now use)?


Sorry for confusion ,,, It is H-ips u2711 / u3011 and catleap uses plan Ips.

H-IPS is just a variation of IPS technology with a different pixel structure to improve the aperture ratio.

info is found here. http://scitation.aip.org/getabs/servlet/GetabsServlet?prog=normal&id=DTPSDS000035000001000245000001&idtype=cvips&gifs=yes&ref=no

Here is a list of all ips panels / ips type in each panel. http://www.pchardwarehelp.com/guides/s-ips-lcd-list.php

From glaceing down the list the Catleap seems to use the same panel as this Apple Thunderbolt Display http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YLCKYA/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=pchahe-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399373&creativeASIN=B004YLCKYA


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Has any tried using 3 of the Catleap Q270 yet? I was thinking of buying 2 more, 2 DL-DVI adapters to Mini-DP, and getting an XFX Tristand for support all 3. Also how do you take the back bar/shield off without breaking ****?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can anyone be of assistance?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> \
> 
> Basically the Monitors control board that has the mulitple input which can scale resolutions such as 1080p to fit a 1440p monitor. Even if you use a DVI-D to HDMI adapter... as long as it has multiple inputs it will have input lag...
Click to expand...

Glad I caught you. I was going to PM you. You said you have the multi version, correct? What I've gathered is that the dvi version has no scaler board, why would I need a dvi-d to hdmi adapter on the multi version, I'm confused

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## LC155

Since this is the most popular topic, I'll just put this here:

In regards to longevity and such of the monitors - The PCBs and LEDs that the monitors use all come in one package from LG. In terms of the panel/electronics, there is nothing they have cheaped out on. Certainly, it's not as low tier as we think. The cost cutting comes from the chassis and the lack of inputs.

If anyone wants to confirm/deny that, please do so.


----------



## exhibitO

How much fps can I expect with a 670 ftw on native resolution?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> The panel itself -- It's an S-IPS panel, the same as the $1,000 Dell Ultrasharp panels. They're made from the same company (LG) and cost 1/3 of the price.
> The only downside is you basically don't get any guarantee if it will get stuck/bad pixels unless you pay for the perfect pixel version. You also have nearly 0 insurance unless you want to pay a fortune to ship it back to Korea where they're shipping from.
> It's a much better panel than the Asus one, but has a little higher risk as far as quality goes. Well worth the risk, I'll be purchasing one once I get the available funds......


The Dells use a different panel

Apple cinema display has the same panel, but it is A+ graded , Catleap is A- graded


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Glad I caught you. I was going to PM you. You said you have the multi version, correct? What I've gathered is that the dvi version has no scaler board, why would I need a dvi-d to hdmi adapter on the multi version, I'm confused
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Are you planning to connect anything else beside your PC? If not. best just go straight dual dvi-d cable...... with no scaler, plugging in an XBOX 360 or PS3 becomes the issue.


----------



## AJCxZ0

Thank you all for providing the information I needed to find and purchase my Q270 SE from green-sum for the asking price of $289.99. This 2560x1440 S-IPS panel has no dud pixels, no backlight bleed and looks so good I have to restrain myself from licking it.

This monitor is an upgrade to my SAMSUNG P2770FH 27" 1920x1080 (alleged) 1ms GTG TN panel purchased in November 2010 for $349.98. While installing and testing the Catleap I had the chance to compare the two and it's astonishing how much better the Catleap is in every way.

Capably driving it is a a ZOTAC SYNERGY GeForce GTX 460 768MB connected by a 15' Nippon Labs DVI 15 DD cable which cost $14.99 from NewEgg.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> There diff Panels...
> Cat leap is S-Ips "1" A-Panel..
> U2711 Is a S-ips "2" A+ panel


Yes, they are different panels, but I don't know where you're getting this S-IPS 1 vs. S-IPS 2 nonsense. They are both H-IPS panels. The main difference is the type of backlighting used.

LM270WQ1 = Standard gamut LED backlighting (Apple and Korean monitors)
LM270WQ2 = Wide gamut CCFL backlighting (Dell U2711)

LM270WQ2 is not an updated version of LM270WQ1. They are separate models, each with their own revisions like LM270WQ1 (SD)(A2) vs. (SD)(E3). The revision is printed on the panel's label.

The Korean monitors use whatever revision is available. I've seen several different revisions used in the Catleap monitors. I believe (SD)(E3) is the latest.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Since this is the most popular topic, I'll just put this here:
> In regards to longevity and such of the monitors - The PCBs and LEDs that the monitors use all come in one package from LG. In terms of the panel/electronics, there is nothing they have cheaped out on. Certainly, it's not as low tier as we think. The cost cutting comes from the chassis and the lack of inputs.
> If anyone wants to confirm/deny that, please do so.


I hope these last I am about to drop 1.5k to get 3 of these working


----------



## djriful

I just got a Clearance Delay after arriving to my destination.

*Further Detail:
Further clearance processing is required.
A DHL representative will attempt to contact importer or shipper if any further information is required to complete the entry. Customer should contact DHL Customer Service if not reached by DHL*

Nevermind this. It got updated.

Processed for clearance


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Since this is the most popular topic, I'll just put this here:
> In regards to longevity and such of the monitors - The PCBs and LEDs that the monitors use all come in one package from LG. In terms of the panel/electronics, there is nothing they have cheaped out on. Certainly, it's not as low tier as we think. The cost cutting comes from the chassis and the lack of inputs.
> If anyone wants to confirm/deny that, please do so.


I can confirm this... The PCBs DO NOT come as a package from LG - may be just the LED and Display Panel. The big brands such as HP, Dell and Apple use their own PCBs also known as Control Boards. Which also explains the difference in input lags, multiple video inputs, on board features, etc.

Also the LG Panel the Koreans are using are widely known A- Grade Panels which is also a cost cutting move (They also market it too, so they are not hiding it). These LG panels are graded based on defects, backlight bleeding, off contrats, etc things that cannot be fixed.. and some of these defects cannot be detected without the use of professional tools. These are grading scales based on the quality of the Display Panels... I am still trying to find out what the grading scales are... But I do know there are some companies selling "Refurbished" PC Monitors that are "B" grades with an acceptable amount of dead/defective pixels.

Apple can simply reject displays from either being too high/low brightness, dead/defective pixels, blacklight bleed, etc...

No one has own these for over six months yet = so there are no one that can confirm the actual longevity. Of course for the price point its "okay" to accept or deal with the risks/defects... but if I paid $1000 for these monitors and I get the same defects, I'd return them in a heart beat.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> How much fps can I expect with a 670 ftw on native resolution?


It depends on what kind of games you are playing... StarCraft 2 I can get up to in the 80+... BF3 I never dropped lower than 45 FPS...


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> I can confirm this... The PCBs DO NOT come as a package from LG - may be just the LED and Display Panel. The big brands such as HP, Dell and Apple use their own PCBs also known as Control Boards. Which also explains the difference in input lags, multiple video inputs, on board features, etc.
> Also the LG Panel the Koreans are using are widely known A- Grade Panels which is also a cost cutting move (They also market it too, so they are not hiding it). These LG panels are graded based on defects, backlight bleeding, off contrats, etc things that cannot be fixed.. and some of these defects cannot be detected without the use of professional tools. These are grading scales based on the quality of the Display Panels... I am still trying to find out what the grading scales are... But I do know there are some companies selling "Refurbished" PC Monitors that are "B" grades with an acceptable amount of dead/defective pixels.
> Apple can simply reject displays from either being too high/low brightness, dead/defective pixels, blacklight bleed, etc...
> No one has own these for over six months yet = so there are no one that can confirm the actual longevity. Of course for the price point its "okay" to accept or deal with the risks/defects... but if I paid $1000 for these monitors and I get the same defects, I'd return them in a heart beat.


Should I buy these







im freaking out that im gonna pay 1200 bucks for 3 of these and have no monitors in 2 years


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> It depends on what kind of games you are playing... StarCraft 2 I can get up to in the 80+... BF3 I never dropped lower than 45 FPS...


What are your settings on BF3? How much AA were you able to do and was 2 GB of vRAM enough at the resolution?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> How much fps can I expect with a 670 ftw on native resolution?
> 
> 
> 
> It depends on what kind of games you are playing... StarCraft 2 I can get up to in the 80+... BF3 I never dropped lower than 45 FPS...
Click to expand...

Wow. That's impressive. At that res? What graphics card are you using. I know you told me before probably. Please remind me.

What is throwing me off are these benchmarks here
http://hexus.net/tech/reviews/graphics/40613-evga-geforce-gtx-670-ftw/?page=5

As you can see at high resolution 1600P. I can only push about 38fps on my EVGA GTX 670 FTW. Isn't that too low? Normally I won't be bothered I'll just run in 1080p but I've read reports on here that running anything else than native on the Catleap makes things blurry.

Can't make up my mind :-\
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## white118

mine just got delivered from greensum, really fast shipping, ordered on thursday night, shipped friday morning, and just got here now. zero problems, no backlight bleed, no dead or stuck pixels. i dont know how i ever survived with 1080p and tn panels.

i just miss 120hz, im getting screen tearing all over the place, and vsync's input lag is unbearable. waiting to buy the overclockable pcb separately if that ever works out.


----------



## Hamy144

So i got my Yamakasi on Thursday after ordering Monday so i was very pleased with the shipping time,
And due to some failure by HMRC i got charged £0 in customs








It looks absolutely stunning stand is wobbly but i have a very sturdy desk so it hardy ever moves. and it absolutely huge!
0 Dead pixels as well but i ordered perfect pixel because i didnt want any flaws in my panel
and looking at the silver arc in theory could i just cut it off at the top and bottom after it is attached and use a vesa mount and would that void the warranty? i know opening it up to remove the arc voids the warranty and would like to avoid that


----------



## exhibitO

Multi version?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *white118*
> 
> mine just got delivered from greensum, really fast shipping, ordered on thursday night, shipped friday morning, and just got here now. zero problems, no backlight bleed, no dead or stuck pixels. i dont know how i ever survived with 1080p and tn panels.
> i just miss 120hz, im getting screen tearing all over the place, and vsync's input lag is unbearable. waiting to buy the overclockable pcb separately if that ever works out.


screen tear while playing games? what card u running? would assume VSync in game would help with the screen tearing issue.


----------



## white118

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> screen tear while playing games? what card u running? would assume VSync in game would help with the screen tearing issue.


yes, while running games. im running sli 680s, i even tried turning one off for bf3 and its still putting out too many frames lol. and yes vsync gets rid of the tearing, but it adds a very noticeable amount of input lag, which is way more annoying than the tearing.


----------



## exhibitO

Are you using the multi version monitor? How many fps did you get with the single 680 at full resolution

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *white118*
> 
> yes, while running games. im running sli 680s, i even tried turning one off for bf3 and its still putting out too many frames lol. and yes vsync gets rid of the tearing, but it adds a very noticeable amount of input lag, which is way more annoying than the tearing.


interesting to hear. i play diablo 3 on my u3011 at max resolution. i had screen tearing with vysnc off but with it turn on, it fixed the problem with no lag. running a vanialla evga 670. i might have to re-download bf3 to try, since im getting rid of the u3011 for two of the catleaps.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *white118*
> 
> yes, while running games. im running sli 680s, i even tried turning one off for bf3 and its still putting out too many frames lol. and yes vsync gets rid of the tearing, but it adds a very noticeable amount of input lag, which is way more annoying than the tearing.


Lag? I don't really see any on my Apple Cinema, assume that input lag is worse than Catleap/Crossover. I play fine and own fine in BF3.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Are you using the multi version monitor? How many fps did you get with the single 680 at full resolution
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


50-60FPS. VSync on.

without vsync. 70-100FPS in some games.

Skyrim full mod without ENB... I haven't try VSYNC off. I think it's very very high. With ENB on was down to 30-70FPS depends how heavy I tweak ENB.

GTA4 full ENB mod is about 60-70FPS.

Most game on average are beyond 60FPS at max res.

Witcher 2 all Max without Ubersampling. 45-60FPS vsync on. Assume at some point it will goes on 60FPS+ if I have vsync off.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Okay so they are the same panels only different. We all got it. The question is can we eyefinity these bad boys and will they work correctly on bigger resolutions around 4000+? They are maxed at 2560x1440 single, has anyone tried using 3 of them yet? I could order 2 more myself except I have an ASUS sitting in a box and this one, thus if they didn't work I would not have a use for 2 more super monitors and I have no one to sell them to.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Okay so they are the same panels only different. We all got it. The question is can we eyefinity these bad boys and will they work correctly on bigger resolutions around 4000+? They are maxed at 2560x1440 single, has anyone tried using 3 of them yet? I could order 2 more myself except I have an ASUS sitting in a box and this one, thus if they didn't work I would not have a use for 2 more super monitors and I have no one to sell them to.


I think you need them to be SLI / Crossfire to run these. If I were you, I would get them in VESA vertical portrait mode. So the screen ratio scale better.

4320 x 2560p

instead of

7680 x 1440p


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Yes, they are different panels, but I don't know where you're getting this S-IPS 1 vs. S-IPS 2 nonsense. They are both H-IPS panels. The main difference is the type of backlighting used.
> LM270WQ1 = Standard gamut LED backlighting (Apple and Korean monitors)
> LM270WQ2 = Wide gamut CCFL backlighting (Dell U2711)
> LM270WQ2 is not an updated version of LM270WQ1. They are separate models, each with their own revisions like LM270WQ1 (SD)(A2) vs. (SD)(E3). The revision is printed on the panel's label.
> The Korean monitors use whatever revision is available. I've seen several different revisions used in the Catleap monitors. I believe (SD)(E3) is the latest.


Dell = H-Ips

Cat leap and apples = S-Ips..


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> I can confirm this... The PCBs DO NOT come as a package from LG - may be just the LED and Display Panel. The big brands such as HP, Dell and Apple use their own PCBs also known as Control Boards. Which also explains the difference in input lags, multiple video inputs, on board features, etc.
> Also the LG Panel the Koreans are using are widely known A- Grade Panels which is also a cost cutting move (They also market it too, so they are not hiding it). These LG panels are graded based on defects, backlight bleeding, off contrats, etc things that cannot be fixed.. and some of these defects cannot be detected without the use of professional tools. These are grading scales based on the quality of the Display Panels... I am still trying to find out what the grading scales are... But I do know there are some companies selling "Refurbished" PC Monitors that are "B" grades with an acceptable amount of dead/defective pixels.
> Apple can simply reject displays from either being too high/low brightness, dead/defective pixels, blacklight bleed, etc...
> No one has own these for over six months yet = so there are no one that can confirm the actual longevity. Of course for the price point its "okay" to accept or deal with the risks/defects... but if I paid $1000 for these monitors and I get the same defects, I'd return them in a heart beat.


Ah, that's true about the PCB. Forgot about that one.

Has an extensive look at the PCB's concluded anything quality wise about them? Should they appear to last?


----------



## white118

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Lag? I don't really see any on my Apple Cinema, assume that input lag is worse than Catleap/Crossover. I play fine and own fine in BF3.


actually i believe the cinema display has double the response time of the catleap. i think cinema has 12ms and catleap 6ms. whether or not that makes a difference on feeling effects of vsync i couldnt tell you.

the vsync input lag is really noticeable in shooters, in games like elder scrolls, its much more tolerable, but still present.


----------



## zerocraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *white118*
> 
> actually i believe the cinema display has double the response time of the catleap. i think cinema has 12ms and catleap 6ms. whether or not that makes a difference on feeling effects of vsync i couldnt tell you.
> the vsync input lag is really noticeable in shooters, in games like elder scrolls, its much more tolerable, but still present.


Not sure if your mobo supports Lucid Virtu but I've been using that to vsync (virtual vsync) and it gets rid of tearing + input lag extremely well. Tried it with cs source and global offensive, works wonderfully, I always get to shoot them first


----------



## n8236

I had a bit of a scare this morning when turning on my Q270.

When I woke my MBP from sleep, the screen looked like a television channel which had poor reception. It had flickering snow flakes! After turning it off and back on, the the problem went away. Anyone else seen this issue and if this is a precursor to a bad unit?!


----------



## exhibitO

Okay thanks. I'm not exactly in your boat, I have a 670 so I'll be getting less fps than that

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> So i got my Yamakasi on Thursday after ordering Monday so i was very pleased with the shipping time,
> And due to some failure by HMRC i got charged £0 in customs
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It looks absolutely stunning stand is wobbly but i have a very sturdy desk so it hardy ever moves. and it absolutely huge!
> 0 Dead pixels as well but i ordered perfect pixel because i didnt want any flaws in my panel
> and looking at the silver arc in theory could i just cut it off at the top and bottom after it is attached and use a vesa mount and would that void the warranty? i know opening it up to remove the arc voids the warranty and would like to avoid that


Nice and also nice to see that the customs let it slip through









Now what makes you think that taking a saw to the arc will not void the warranty lol


----------



## baldbrah

just got shipping confirmation from greensum today. how long does it take to reach the eastern seaboard of the US?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> just got shipping confirmation from greensum today. how long does it take to reach the eastern seaboard of the US?


Interested in the answer to this as well, as I got shipping confirmation a couple hours ago from BBC.


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Dell = H-Ips
> Cat leap and apples = S-Ips..


No, they are all H-IPS. H-IPS is not new technology. It's been around for several years now. S-IPS hasn't been used in any of the 27" panels.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> I can confirm this... The PCBs DO NOT come as a package from LG - may be just the LED and Display Panel. The big brands such as HP, Dell and Apple use their own PCBs also known as Control Boards. Which also explains the difference in input lags, multiple video inputs, on board features, etc.


The timing controller PCB comes with the panel module. The controller board is a separate PCB.


----------



## Hokies83

...
All the apple displays are S-IPS... which is what catleaps use...

Dell uses H-IPS which is what the u2711 and the u3011 use..


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Dell = H-Ips
> Cat leap and apples = S-Ips..
> 
> 
> 
> No, they are all H-IPS. H-IPS is not new technology. It's been around for several years now. S-IPS hasn't been used in any of the 27" panels.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> I can confirm this... The PCBs DO NOT come as a package from LG - may be just the LED and Display Panel. The big brands such as HP, Dell and Apple use their own PCBs also known as Control Boards. Which also explains the difference in input lags, multiple video inputs, on board features, etc.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> The timing controller PCB comes with the panel module. The controller board is a separate PCB.
Click to expand...

My catleap has a marketing sticker that _says_ S-IPS on the bezel
I know you don't trust marketing but...


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *n8236*
> 
> I had a bit of a scare this morning when turning on my Q270.
> When I woke my MBP from sleep, the screen looked like a television channel which had poor reception. It had flickering snow flakes! After turning it off and back on, the the problem went away. Anyone else seen this issue and if this is a precursor to a bad unit?!


I'm having a similar problem when it comes out of sleep mode. This started after I replace the old HD5770 with a HD7850. It was fine with the 5770 but a lot of time when it comes out of sleep on the HD7850, the screen is garbled until I turn it off and back on. It seems the HD7850 wasn't sending a strong enough sync signal when it comes out of sleep.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> just got shipping confirmation from greensum today. how long does it take to reach the eastern seaboard of the US?


If you got the shipping notice from Greensum. Check and see if it's up on the DHL tracking site yet (mine took a couple days to show up). Once it's up on the DHL site. It will usually leave Korea in the same or next day. Once it left Korea it's usually another 2 days before it shows up on your doorstep.


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> just got shipping confirmation from greensum today. how long does it take to reach the eastern seaboard of the US?
> 
> 
> 
> If you got the shipping notice from Greensum. Check and see if it's up on the DHL tracking site yet (mine took a couple days to show up). Once it's up on the DHL site. It will usually leave Korea in the same or next day. Once it left Korea it's usually another 2 days before it shows up on your doorstep.
Click to expand...

@Bald: That^. It's freakishly fast once it's out of Korea.
Here's my tracking

http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2756487801

It was STINKING. fast. Any sensitive info in that link? No right?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> @Bald: That^. It's freakishly fast once it's out of Korea.
> Here's my tracking
> http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2756487801
> It was STINKING. fast. Any sensitive info in that link? No right?


Wow, that is fast. Mine took 3 days due it was shipped over the weekend on Sat and got it on Mon.


----------



## LC155

H/S-IPS are both proven technologies and the differences between them are subtle at best. Why are we having this argument?

If you gave me a dell without the crappy ag I'd pay for it. Why? Known brand, warranty, and the hassle free returns if something goes wrong.

Unfortunately, dell probably won't release an ag less version of their monitors, so korean brands it is.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> H/S-IPS are both proven technologies and the differences between them are subtle at best. Why are we having this argument?
> If you gave me a dell without the crappy ag I'd pay for it. Why? Known brand, warranty, and the hassle free returns if something goes wrong.
> Unfortunately, dell probably won't release an ag less version of their monitors, so korean brands it is.


Korea are all glossy. =) it looks just like my ACD.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Korea are all glossy. =) it looks just like my ACD.


Yep. The biggest reason I went for them. Screw LG's ag.


----------



## bbqrooster

After looking at all the variants available for 27" 2560x1440 WQHD monitor, I've decided on and ordered a perfect pixel Yamakasi Q270. I'll post my impression when it comes in and after testing.


----------



## exhibitO

Anyone run games in 1080p on these monitors to achieve higher fps? Is the quality degraded and blurry? This is what is preventing me from purchasing.

I have a single 670 FTW not sure I'll be able to max out. I will have to decrease res, but there are reports saying 1080p is blurry. Thanks

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## koulaid

Best one for picture and video editing? I only play BF3 and not so much either.


----------



## CpHaAiOnS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Anyone run games in 1080p on these monitors to achieve higher fps? Is the quality degraded and blurry? This is what is preventing me from purchasing.
> I have a single 670 FTW not sure I'll be able to max out. I will have to decrease res, but there are reports saying 1080p is blurry. Thanks
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


works fine for me.. but.. once u go 1440p... you wont go back, lol


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Anyone run games in 1080p on these monitors to achieve higher fps? Is the quality degraded and blurry? This is what is preventing me from purchasing.
> I have a single 670 FTW not sure I'll be able to max out. I will have to decrease res, but there are reports saying 1080p is blurry. Thanks
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Why would you want to run 1080p just for FPS? I'm getting 60FPS in most games on 1440p. I don't see the problem there.


----------



## HappyFace

What is if a game has a max resolution (for example 720P)?
Will it be fullscreen or with black backround? Can I adjust this through the driver?


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Dell = H-Ips
> Cat leap and apples = S-Ips..


I took a picture of the pixels on my Catleap:








Looks like H-IPS to me. Pretty much every 23"+ IPS monitor made in the last four years has an H-IPS panel, so why do you insist it's S-IPS?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> My catleap has a marketing sticker that _says_ S-IPS on the bezel
> I know you don't trust marketing but...


"S-IPS" is often used as a generic term for IPS panels. It doesn't really mean anything other than it has an IPS panel. It doesn't indicate what type is being used.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I took a picture of the pixels on my Catleap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like H-IPS to me. Pretty much every 23"+ IPS monitor made in the last four years has an H-IPS panel, so why do you insist it's S-IPS?
> "S-IPS" is often used as a generic term for IPS panels. It doesn't really mean anything other than it has an IPS panel. It doesn't indicate what type is being used.


Take the Panel apart and read the back... it says S-IPS...

I OWN A CAT LEAP DUDE... im just making it clear the cat leap do not use the same displays as The u2711... They use the same displays as Apple....


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Anyone run games in 1080p on these monitors to achieve higher fps? Is the quality degraded and blurry? This is what is preventing me from purchasing.
> I have a single 670 FTW not sure I'll be able to max out. I will have to decrease res, but there are reports saying 1080p is blurry. Thanks
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Some may dis-agree but my view is this. With a 2560x1440 display, you can pretty much do away with AA on all games, which means that a GTX670 should be able to run most current game at native res with acceptable frame rates.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Some may dis-agree but my view is this. With a 2560x1440 display, you can pretty much do away with AA on all games, which means that a GTX670 should be able to run most current game at native res with acceptable frame rates.


Well, yes. It depends on what you play. But the majority of 'mainstream' games you should be able to max with a single 2GB 670. Just my opinion though.

And I'm in agreement with you as well. Might even be able to use some AA too


----------



## Ders

Just ordered a Q270 ES from greensum after a few months of debating...... I hope the wife doesn't get to pissed.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Anyone run games in 1080p on these monitors to achieve higher fps? Is the quality degraded and blurry? This is what is preventing me from purchasing.
> I have a single 670 FTW not sure I'll be able to max out. I will have to decrease res, but there are reports saying 1080p is blurry. Thanks
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Why would you want to run 1080p just for FPS? I'm getting 60FPS in most games on 1440p. I don't see the problem there.
Click to expand...

You're running a 680 or 680 sli. I'm running a single 670. Could you try lowering your res to 1080p and tell me if it's blurry while gaming
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## jam3s

I wouldn't even do that.

I've personally owned a 670. It's fine man. honestly.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Nice and also nice to see that the customs let it slip through
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now what makes you think that taking a saw to the arc will not void the warranty lol


Well its less invasive, ill email the seller and see what they say they may even say it ok!


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> I wouldn't even do that.
> 
> I've personally owned a 670. It's fine man. honestly.


Is it really? A 670 2gb with a catleap? I don't know why I'm obsessing over fps all of a sudden. I just feel like the 670 won't handle 2560x1440 at glorious fps's

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Some may dis-agree but my view is this. With a 2560x1440 display, you can pretty much do away with AA on all games, which means that a GTX670 should be able to run most current game at native res with acceptable frame rates.


With my 570 oc'ed i tested Diablo 3 all settings maxed at 2560x1440 i still stay around 50-60fps with adaptive vsync on. Occasionally ill get a micro shutter that will drop my fps to the mid 40's but that was even happening on my 24". Even with lots of chaos playing online i stayed above 50fps. Playing ME 3 online same thing im in the high 45-60fps with everything max. Now BF3 is a different story. I had to turn the Ambient Occlusion down to SSAO and turn AA completely off. Left everything else on ultra and i was getting bout mid 35-50fps depending where i was. This was only on a 32 man match and im bet some maps with lots going on would have drop my fps below 30fps.

A gtx 670 will be my next upgrade.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Is it really? A 670 2gb with a catleap? I don't know why I'm obsessing over fps all of a sudden. I just feel like the 670 won't handle 2560x1440 at glorious fps's
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


hehe, don't worry. The 670 is a very powerful card.

I would have 2 or 3 right now if I could. Just went the other way really lol


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Is it really? A 670 2gb with a catleap? I don't know why I'm obsessing over fps all of a sudden. I just feel like the 670 won't handle 2560x1440 at glorious fps's
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


...

Most 670 can OC better than my card for sure because mine is a bad OC card max at 1180Mhz or else it will crash. I could run any games fine.


----------



## exhibitO

Thanks fellas. So what's the concensus do you guys think I should pull the trigger, I've been lurking for too long. I guess I'll have to OC the 670. I heard the difference between gaming on 1080p and the Catleap is just amazing.

No one has answered my question what 1080p looks like on the Catleap, though

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Take the Panel apart and read the back... it says S-IPS...
> I OWN A CAT LEAP DUDE... im just making it clear the cat leap do not use the same displays as The u2711... They use the same displays as Apple....


Can't really argue the pixel structure man. Unless there's a clear difference in the pixel structure of both, then he's right.

Here:










That's an S-IPS.










That's a H-IPS.

It's a H-IPS panel, doesn't matter what the sticker says.

More evidence:


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Can't really argue the pixel structure man. Unless there's a clear difference in the pixel structure of both, then he's right.
> Here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an S-IPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a H-IPS.
> It's a H-IPS panel, doesn't matter what the sticker says.
> More evidence:


Then I suppose the majority of all catleap owners have been duped.


----------



## LBear

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks fellas. So what's the concensus do you guys think I should pull the trigger, I've been lurking for too long. I guess I'll have to OC the 670. I heard the difference between gaming on 1080p and the Catleap is just amazing.
> No one has answered my question what 1080p looks like on the Catleap, though
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Looks burred to me. Once u see 2560x1440 u wont go back.


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks fellas. So what's the concensus do you guys think I should pull the trigger, I've been lurking for too long. I guess I'll have to OC the 670. I heard the difference between gaming on 1080p and the Catleap is just amazing.
> 
> No one has answered my question what 1080p looks like on the Catleap, though
> 
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Why would you want to do that. Why would you get bad frames using one of the most powerful single cards on the market?

Keplar is not weak, it can drive the 1440p monitor no problem.
So that's that.

And just answering your question,
2560 * 1440 = 3 686 400
1920 * 1080 = 2 073 600

a 77% pixel increase: of course 1080p stretching over 77% more space is going to look blurry.
I did that on accident when I was playing DayZ and I wondered why everything suddenly looked fuzzy. It's noticeably more unclear.


----------



## Wiz33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks fellas. So what's the concensus do you guys think I should pull the trigger, I've been lurking for too long. I guess I'll have to OC the 670. I heard the difference between gaming on 1080p and the Catleap is just amazing.
> No one has answered my question what 1080p looks like on the Catleap, though
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


I'll go one better. I had a HD5770 in the office with the Catleap Q270 until 2 weeks ago. I have to run Diablo 3 at 1600x900 with some detail turned down a bit and it still look beautiful ;-P. Same as watching Blu-ray 1080p movies. My Dell 2407 just pales by comparison when I move the player window from one to the other.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> Then I suppose the majority of all catleap owners have been duped.


H-IPS is the better panel. It allows for greater contrast ratios and such. I wouldn't consider it a bad thing to be 'duped'.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Some may dis-agree but my view is this. With a 2560x1440 display, you can pretty much do away with AA on all games, which means that a GTX670 should be able to run most current game at native res with acceptable frame rates.


Really? I was thinking about how much I would miss AA once I got my monitor, lol. Didn't think I could do away with it.


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> H-IPS is the better panel. It allows for greater contrast ratios and such. I wouldn't consider it a bad thing to be 'duped'.


Haha. Thanks for that clarification.

I don't know much about panels, to be honest.


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Some may dis-agree but my view is this. With a 2560x1440 display, you can pretty much do away with AA on all games, which means that a GTX670 should be able to run most current game at native res with acceptable frame rates.
> 
> 
> 
> Really? I was thinking about how much I would miss AA once I got my monitor, lol. Didn't think I could do away with it.
Click to expand...

It looks super sharp. You have so many pixels that AA completely disabled on DayZ *still looks really good*. If I turned off AA on BF3 @ 1080p I noticed it. Turned it off on DayZ @ 1440p? NOPE!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> H-IPS is the better panel. It allows for greater contrast ratios and such. I wouldn't consider it a bad thing to be 'duped'.


The cat leap is an I-ips panel... it is written on the panel its self.. Unless LG put the wrong product number on every panel which i highly think would not be the case.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Can't really argue the pixel structure man. Unless there's a clear difference in the pixel structure of both, then he's right.
> Here:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's an S-IPS.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That's a H-IPS.
> It's a H-IPS panel, doesn't matter what the sticker says.
> More evidence:


So is the Catleap considered an IPS-Pro panel or is it one of the older variants?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> It looks super sharp. You have so many pixels that AA completely disabled on DayZ *still looks really good*. If I turned off AA on BF3 @ 1080p I noticed it. Turned it off on DayZ @ 1440p? NOPE!


Damn. Well I was hoping to be able to turn off the AA on BF3. How much does AA in BF3 take a toll on the vRAM of the GPU?


----------



## FlashFir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> It looks super sharp. You have so many pixels that AA completely disabled on DayZ *still looks really good*. If I turned off AA on BF3 @ 1080p I noticed it. Turned it off on DayZ @ 1440p? NOPE!
> 
> 
> 
> Damn. Well I was hoping to be able to turn off the AA on BF3. How much does AA in BF3 take a toll on the vRAM of the GPU?
Click to expand...

I ain't the person to ask since I'm the one with 1.2gb VRAM card.







fps drop goes down by 8 or so per increase on my rig


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> So is the Catleap considered an IPS-Pro panel or is it one of the older variants?


The IPS-Pro is basically the old name for H-IPS, which is the panel that the catleap uses.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> The cat leap is an I-ips panel... it is written on the panel its self.. Unless LG put the wrong product number on every panel which i highly think would not be the case.


Keep saying it all you want, I've seen pictures of the pixel structure, and they match H-IPS. There's nothing more to say, man.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Keep saying it all you want, I've seen pictures of the pixel structure, and they match H-IPS. There's nothing more to say, man.


The U2711's panel is 8-bit + A-FRC to simulate 10 bit, whereas the panel in the Apple Cinema Display is an 8-bit S-IPS panel without A-FRC. Same as These Korean monitors

The U2711's panel covers 100% Adobe RGB gamut, whereas the S-IPS panel in the cinema display and these Korean monitors does about 83% of Adobe RGB. Both will do more than 100% sRGB. I shoot all my photos in sRGB so this isn't an issue for me, but if are a graphics/photo professional who needs 100% Adobe RGB coverage then the Dell is still the way to go. However, if you don't know how to properly calibrate your monitor to utilize the full Adobe RGB gamut, then this feature won't do much for you.

LM270WQ1 is an S-IPS panel. Apple / CatLeap

The WQ2 is the H-IPS panel found in the Dell U2711

Seen here http://www.panelook.com/LM270WQ1-SDA2_LG%20Display_27.0_LCM_overview_4999.html

And here http://www.displayblog.com/2011/09/29/apple-thunderbolt-display-lg-display-lm270wq1-v-dell-ultrasharp-u2711-lm270wq2-colors-and-response-times/



Seen in page 7 of this thread from are very own forum. http://www.overclock.net/t/1257538/microcenter-now-carrying-the-27-2560x1440-korean-ips-monitors/60

*I rest my case...*


----------



## LC155

If it's an S-IPS. It will use the S-IPS pixel structure.

*It does not*.

Unless you can taker a picture of your Catleap, showing the pixel structure of an S-IPS, then I will continue to associate it with a H-IPS.

Edit: Here's a page for you:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/hazro_hz27wa.htm

Hazro, which is a UK rebrand of the same types of monitors. Notice where it says it uses the "same H-IPS panel as the Apple"


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> If it's an S-IPS. It will use the S-IPS pixel structure.
> *It does not*.


Then you got the only one like that then.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Then you got the only one like that then.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> I took a picture of the pixels on my Catleap:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like H-IPS to me. Pretty much every 23"+ IPS monitor made in the last four years has an H-IPS panel, so why do you insist it's S-IPS?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> If it's an S-IPS. It will use the S-IPS pixel structure.
> *It does not*.
> Unless you can taker a picture of your Catleap, showing the pixel structure of an S-IPS, then I will continue to associate it with a H-IPS.
> Edit: Here's a page for you:
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/hazro_hz27wa.htm
> Hazro, which is a UK rebrand of the same types of monitors. Notice where it says it uses the "same H-IPS panel as the Apple"


Apples are S-IPS....


----------



## LC155

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/search.php?query=apple&select=model

Take a look at that page. "27"WS LG.Display H-IPS (LM270WQ1-SDA2)"

There you go.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/search.php?query=apple&select=model
> Take a look at that page. "27"WS LG.Display H-IPS (LM270WQ1-SDA2)"
> There you go.


Then it seems there putting any left over A- panels they can find.. S-IPS and H-IPS


----------



## LC155

Time for user testing then.

If you can, take a picture of your monitor pixel structure, and we'll see what happens.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Then it seems there putting any left over A- panels they can find.. S-IPS and H-IPS


Dude S-IPS is used for the classification of all newer IPS displays. Whether it's H-IPS or some other new IPS technology, most manufacturers still market it as S-IPS. It is not the same S-IPS technology that was introduced in 1998.
As several people have stated the panel quality (A+ or A-) makes no difference in the pixel construction or layout. But rather the quality control for the other parts such as the panel's backlight, contrast, color accuracy etc.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Dude S-IPS is used for the classification of all newer IPS displays. Whether it's H-IPS or some other new IPS technology, most manufacturers still market it as S-IPS. It is not the same S-IPS technology that was introduced in 1998.
> As several people have stated the panel quality (A+ or A-) makes no difference in the pixel construction or layout. But rather the quality control for the other parts such as the panel's backlight, contrast, color accuracy etc.


Your not understanding then..

Never did i put S IPS and A - as a type of panel.. that has nothing to do with it....


----------



## n8236

Bah, the snowy screen happened again!

Darn it, does it mean I'll have to keep my GPU on Discrete to avoid having to always power cycle my monitor....sigh


----------



## baldbrah

theres a bit of bickering in this thread. let's keep it positive.


----------



## LC155

It's a debate, there's no harsh words being thrown around.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> It's a debate, there's no harsh words being thrown around.


+1 i do not argue here this is not the place for that.. i will how ever debate with the best of them.


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Take the Panel apart and read the back... it says S-IPS...
> I OWN A CAT LEAP DUDE... im just making it clear the cat leap do not use the same displays as The u2711... They use the same displays as Apple....


I think someone already told you this, if not I am saying it again. H-ips is nearly the same as s-ips which the true s-ips panels were replaced back on 2009 by h-ips

Just most companies never adopted the h-ips like dell did, such as the catleaps and apple. It says h-ips for dell and s-ips for Others like catleap and apple but they are really h-ips like you said as s-ips was discontinued by lg in 2009 like I just stated.

Ultimately again, they are the same panels as dell just not advertised as such. H-ips was nothing more than electrode placed different which resulted in "pixel structure" which did nothing more than to keep the screen as bright when viewing from a side angle.

Lastly the correct term should be h-ips but it isn't advertised that and hardly anyone but dell and maybe one other company does.....

I did my research, your turn


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Your not understanding then..
> Never did i put S IPS and A - as a type of panel.. that has nothing to do with it....


Yes you did, some pages back, you state they're totally different panels that dell was h-ips panel and catleap was s-ips panel which resulted in different pixel structures

That right there proves you said s-ips was a panel lol.....

And looks like someone did beat me to it about the h-ips and crap. Catleaps and dells are the same s-ips/h-ips panels

Someone even posted the catleaps pixel structure and shows h-ips..... Advertised as s-ips cause..... That's really what it is.

Sorry for all the grammar failure. On my iphone


----------



## londonfire93

I just ordered a second monitor from bcc what is a good dual monitor stand that will work with these to replace the terrible stand


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> I just ordered a second monitor from bcc what is a good dual monitor stand that will work with these to replace the terrible stand


How's this: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5560&seq=1&format=2

Actually, never mind. Only allows up to 23".


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Yes you did, some pages back, you state they're totally different panels that dell was h-ips panel and catleap was s-ips panel which resulted in different pixel structures
> That right there proves you said s-ips was a panel lol.....
> And looks like someone did beat me to it about the h-ips and crap. Catleaps and dells are the same s-ips/h-ips panels
> Someone even posted the catleaps pixel structure and shows h-ips..... Advertised as s-ips cause..... That's really what it is.
> Sorry for all the grammar failure. On my iphone


I was just gonna say...

I always thought higher of you


----------



## londonfire93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> How's this: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5560&seq=1&format=2
> Actually, never mind. Only allows up to 23".


Darn i got excited when i saw this but ill keep looking thanks.


----------



## Hokies83

Anybody got one of these working with DL-DVI-I?


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam3s*
> 
> I was just gonna say...
> I always thought higher of you


Still not that bad for speed typing on an iPhone. Least I didn't do the your crap and did it correctly with "you're" lol...








<

and typed that haha


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Balsagna*
> 
> Still not that bad for speed typing on an iPhone. Least I didn't do the your crap and did it correctly with "you're" lol...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> <
> 
> and typed that haha


hahahah. <3 iphone's.


----------



## Parafly

Hey guys, I have a Shimian monitor. I have a strange issue.

1st, the rig,

Asrock z77 Extreme4 Motherboard
Intel i3770k Ivy Bridge CPU
Corsair 850w PSU
GTX 570
16gb RAM

I have two monitors. The Shimian, connected via DVI, and also a BenQ G2400WD 24" 1980x1200 monitor connected via HDMI.

Here is what happens; for only video that is local to my machine that I play (I have tried .mpeg, .avi, and .m4v so far), it "fades out" somehow on my Shimian monitor. When I play it back on the BenQ, it looks fine. But then I move it back to the shimian and it fades out again. Almost like it slightly desaturates.

Here is a short video demonstrating the issue


----------



## edo101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Parafly*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a Shimian monitor. I have a strange issue.
> 1st, the rig,
> Asrock z77 Extreme4 Motherboard
> Intel i3770k Ivy Bridge CPU
> Corsair 850w PSU
> GTX 570
> 16gb RAM
> I have two monitors. The Shimian, connected via DVI, and also a BenQ G2400WD 24" 1980x1200 monitor connected via HDMI.
> Here is what happens; for only video that is local to my machine that I play (I have tried .mpeg, .avi, and .m4v so far), it "fades out" somehow on my Shimian monitor. When I play it back on the BenQ, it looks fine. But then I move it back to the shimian and it fades out again. Almost like it slightly desaturates.
> Here is a short video demonstrating the issue


disconnect the good monitor and play only on Schimian with only SHimian connected. You'll prbly need to reboot computer to make sure card is sending signal only to SHimian. If the same wash out happens, adjust video playback on your card's drivers. If it doesn't happen then know that your Shimian doesn't play nice with others


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Anybody got one of these working with DL-DVI-I?


DVI=I is DVI=D + analog. AFAIK, all DVI ports on Nvidia + all AMD pre HD6xxx, are DL DVI=I. The AMD HD6xxx and most HD7xxx have DVI-I as the only Dual Link output. the other DVI is single Link

So yes.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> DVI=I is DVI=D + analog. AFAIK, all DVI ports on Nvidia + all AMD pre HD6xxx, are DL DVI=I. The AMD HD6xxx and most HD7xxx have DVI-I as the only Dual Link output. the other DVI is single Link
> So yes.


Yea noob moment got my first amd cards ever been Nvidia for 15 years.. sooo these crazy drivers.. ugh i had to re install windows to get to work.. and the diff dvis are driveing me nuts..


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I think you need them to be SLI / Crossfire to run these. If I were you, I would get them in VESA vertical portrait mode. So the screen ratio scale better.
> 4320 x 2560p
> instead of
> 7680 x 1440p


That is a terrific idea. I am going to get another 7970 but I'm not sure I'll have the watts to power 2 crossfire 7970 and a super pc. I might buy a 1000W next.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> If it's an S-IPS. It will use the S-IPS pixel structure.
> *It does not*.
> Unless you can taker a picture of your Catleap, showing the pixel structure of an S-IPS, then I will continue to associate it with a H-IPS.
> Edit: Here's a page for you:
> http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/content/hazro_hz27wa.htm
> Hazro, which is a UK rebrand of the same types of monitors. Notice where it says it uses the "same H-IPS panel as the Apple"


 From said link

"Instead the panel is actually an 8-bit + AFRC module (LG.Display LM270WQ2). The HZ27WB supports 10-bit input through this FRC at the panel level. This is the same as NEC's 10-bit displays and the Dell U series which support 1.07 billion colours."

Not the same panel used in Catleap or Cinema Display, so they seem to be contradicting themselves, but it seems the pixel structure is the same in both.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm


----------



## tael

Are they not making the Black SE models anymore? Checked BCC's shop earlier and didn't see any. (Will check out the other sellers later, Ebay blocked here) Would really rather have non-speaker model. Really dislike the look of the White ones though.


----------



## geovas77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Damn. Well I was hoping to be able to turn off the AA on BF3. How much does AA in BF3 take a toll on the vRAM of the GPU?


I am playing BF3 on Ultra with MSAA off and there is definitely nothing blurry about it at 1440p. FPS is at 58-60 with adaptive vsync and I don't get any input lag I can notice. Turning vsync off will actually allow framerates of 58-80 but I do get noticable screen tear. MSAAx4 is till playable at about 45ish FPS but I dont really notice any difference in quality so I'd rather take the higher framerate.

The 670 is very powerful as long as you can get a reasonable overclock you should be fine playing BF3 @ Ultra @ 1440p minus the MSAA at a healthy 60 fps. I run my Asus 670 GTX Top card at 1250 Mhz.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geovas77*
> 
> I am playing BF3 on Ultra with MSAA off and there is definitely nothing blurry about it at 1440p. FPS is at 58-60 with adaptive vsync and I don't get any input lag I can notice. Turning vsync off will actually allow framerates of 58-80 but I do get noticable screen tear. MSAAx4 is till playable at about 45ish FPS but I dont really notice any difference in quality so I'd rather take the higher framerate.
> The 670 is very powerful as long as you can get a reasonable overclock you should be fine playing BF3 @ Ultra @ 1440p minus the MSAA at a healthy 60 fps. I run my Asus 670 GTX Top card at 1250 Mhz.


Yea, that's the other thing. Having difficulty overclocking...perhaps my card isn't that overclockable. A boost clock of even 120 mHz has proven unstable on my card.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FlashFir*
> 
> @Bald: That^. It's freakishly fast once it's out of Korea.
> Here's my tracking
> http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2756487801
> It was STINKING. fast. Any sensitive info in that link? No right?


Thanks for that. that is VERY fast. no senstive info. Mine just departed Seoul last night, hopefully will be here tomorrow.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> Thanks for that. that is VERY fast. no senstive info. Mine just departed Seoul last night, hopefully will be here tomorrow.


Ordered mine last Friday. Still haven't shipped. Probably still in the process of being checked for defects by BBC.


----------



## UP X

Ordered a white Catleap from bigclothcraft. Will let you know how it is when I get it.


----------



## WhyCry

Just received my white Catleap, has one bright pixel and bleeding is noticeable, but I'm very happy with this monitor. Great quality. Will post pictures later.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhyCry*
> 
> Just received my white Catleap, has one bright pixel and bleeding is noticeable, but I'm very happy with this monitor. Great quality. Will post pictures later.


please do. waiting to get 2 of the white ones in the mail


----------



## Hokies83

Just got my Cat Leap in the mail..

I like the very Bright screen No Anti glare..

But vs the u2711.. Other then the panel in this thing.. boy is this thing made cheap lol.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Just got my Cat Leap in the mail..
> I like the very Bright screen No Anti glare..
> But vs the u2711.. Other then the panel in this thing.. boy is this thing made cheap lol.


When and who did you order it from?


----------



## Mals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Limes*
> 
> I just got one of the last 120hz catleaps, expecting it to arrive sometime next week, can't wait!


What exactly do you mean the "120 hz catleaps"? I thought they could only OC to around 85hz. Which ones are these? I guess I haven't followed close enough.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> When and who did you order it from?


I got it for 260$ shipped perfect pix from Evga forums.

Monitor works fine... I was kinda used to anti glare.. screen looking bright looks funny atm but i think i like it..

It is just the common cheap bezel the back plastic and the stand is cheap.. If you had a u2711 for 2 years u would feel the same there very sturdy built.

But for selling the u2711 for 600$ and getting this for 260$ im not looking back right now... I just hope the panel lasts..


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Just got my Cat Leap in the mail..
> I like the very Bright screen No Anti glare..
> But vs the u2711.. Other then the panel in this thing.. boy is this thing made cheap lol.


Looks fine vs the ACD. I have the Crossover one.


----------



## CKtalon

Just got my black Catleap for $300. No dead/stuck pixels. Stand is wobbly as expected.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I got it for 260$ shipped perfect pix from Evga forums.
> Monitor works fine... I was kinda used to anti glare.. screen looking bright looks funny atm but i think i like it..
> It is just the common cheap bezel the back plastic and the stand is cheap.. If you had a u2711 for 2 years u would feel the same there very sturdy built.
> But for selling the u2711 for 600$ and getting this for 260$ im not looking back right now... I just hope the panel lasts..


lol same situation, except i have the u3011. can't say the bezelon the u3011 is the greatest. feels like cheap plastic compared to my 2407.


----------



## azianai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I got it for 260$ shipped perfect pix from Evga forums.
> Monitor works fine... I was kinda used to anti glare.. screen looking bright looks funny atm but i think i like it..
> It is just the common cheap bezel the back plastic and the stand is cheap.. If you had a u2711 for 2 years u would feel the same there very sturdy built.
> But for selling the u2711 for 600$ and getting this for 260$ im not looking back right now... I just hope the panel lasts..


If not, you're not getting your U2711 back


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mals*
> 
> What exactly do you mean the "120 hz catleaps"? I thought they could only OC to around 85hz. Which ones are these? I guess I haven't followed close enough.


Nope the 2B variants are overclockable to 120hz. There is a forum that is selling them. I don't think I'm allowed to link it but I'll say this much, it involves 120hz lol...


----------



## HappyFace

Has anybody tried old games?!

What is if a game has a max resolution (for example 720P)?
Will it be fullscreen or with black backround? Can I adjust this through the driver?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azianai*
> 
> If not, you're not getting your U2711 back










It came safe i hope? are you using it now how is it?


----------



## hygglo

i recived my YAMAKASI 2703 LED IPS Tempered Glass 27" LED 2560x1440 today but i think something is wrong. ;(
The power button dosent work i think.
When i plug in the power suply nothing happen with the screen. the power led are red for 2 seconds then it goes in to a blue flashing standby mode.
And nothing happens when i press the on/off button:/ i have tryed it on different computers but still no picture.
I hope the seller on ebay take it back and send me a new one..... Or can anything else be wrong with it?
My graphic are a ATI HD 4770 mybe its to old?
But i think the on/off button shuld work anyway..or?

Sorry for bad english, im from sweden....


----------



## djriful

Just a note to people here, there is no point getting a tempered glass monitor unless you want the ultimate protection in case someone throw a Wii remote across the room.

The glossy has the exact appearance as tempered glass monitor which I was comparing to my ACD.


----------



## seg//fault

So I got a chance to run a lag test on my Catleaps. In the following pictures, both are at stock 60Hz, both are plugged into a GTX 550 Ti via DL-DVI, and both are running at native 2560x1440. The monitor on the left is the vanilla Catleap Q270, no speakers, no glass, 2C PCB. On the right is the Q270 Multi, apparently using a 2B PCB, but I haven't opened it up yet to verify.
Cloned the output to the monitors using Windows 7's built-in config, and used the "Input Lag HTML" test running in Chrome from http://tft.vanity.dk/

Photos were taken with a Nikon D3000 with a shutter speed of 1/320th of a second (which is an exposure time of 3.125ms). Also take into account that with the monitors at 60Hz, a given frame will show for 16.67ms, so these results aren't exact. During the ~3ms the shutter is open, one monitor could be about to show a new frame, while the other monitor could have just started showing the current frame. So add 16.6ms to each result for the "worst-case" lag.


Spoiler: Results:



Results:

Multi was 16ms (roughly one frame) behind. Worst case: 32.6ms


Multi was 17ms (again, roughly one frame) behind. Worst case: 33.6ms


Multi was 16ms behind again. Worst case: 32.6ms


Taking into consideration any margin of error present in the experiment, the multi lags about a frame (worst case 2 frames) behind a regular Catleap at the same resolution and connection. Not bad, I'd say!

I'll be testing frame drops with OC on the Multi later this week!


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Just a note to people here, there is no point getting a tempered glass monitor unless you want the ultimate protection in case someone throw a Wii remote across the room.
> The glossy has the exact appearance as tempered glass monitor which I was comparing to my ACD.


Any affect on image quality between temp glass and the matte/no glass finish?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Any affect on image quality between temp glass and the matte/no glass finish?


The one without glass is glossy by default. They are not matte, so your question is invalid.

3 types

- Matte (Anti-Glare)
- Glossy (Reflective + Polarized)
- Tempered Glass (Reflective w/ + Polarized) aka Glossy


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> The one without glass is glossy by default. They are not matte, so your question is invalid.
> 3 types
> - Matte (Anti-Glare)
> - Glossy (Reflective + Polarized)
> - Tempered Glass (Reflective w/ + Polarized) aka Glossy


Sorry about that, still trying to understand all the types! What are the effects of each to image quality and for that matter is there a "best" to get based coming from an image quality standpoint?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Sorry about that, still trying to understand all the types! What are the effects of each to image quality and for that matter is there a "best" to get based coming from an image quality standpoint?


Glossy / Tempered Glass provide the sharpest and high contrast image. Best for gaming / movies.
Matte screen are best print / photo editing due to perfect white balance without any polarize but the down side is might be too sparkly on some monitor due to the Anti-Glare.

Let say: why not without Anti-Glare? Because without it, it's just glossy. The Glossy in the case is different, removing the film will just expose the monitor naked and very fragile at this point.

The regular glossy has a film to protected, just like lamination but also polarize to give contrast balance.

2cents. please correct if I am wrong at some area.

Now it comes to my mind about some yellow tinted display is probably due to the film on the display. At max brightness is destroy the yellow tint easily by overcoming it. My ACD doesn't have a yellow tint but it's tempered glass. I guess the glass polarize is not yellow tinty as my Crossover one.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mals*
> 
> What exactly do you mean the "120 hz catleaps"? I thought they could only OC to around 85hz. Which ones are these? I guess I haven't followed close enough.


Most will only overclock to 67Hz, the earlier 2B model could get up to around 120Hz...that's it...there is no 85Hz

There have been 120Hz (Multi) versions on ebay lately, but there is reports of them skipping frames, so you end up not seeing the benefit of the 120Hz.


----------



## alpha22

Just a cautionary tale, the replacement power bricks on eBay are not necessarily correct even if the label on the back says they are. As suggested in the original post, i searched for "EFL-2202W Adapter" and found a seller who had the right type (or so i thought) and feedback indicating that other people had purchased the same item for their Catleap monitors and were happy.

A few days later when i got it, i checked the label to be sure and everything checked out, it has the right input, the right output and the pinout diagram is identical to the stock powerbrick with + being the left side pins and - being the right side pins. The light on the brick was solid green, so i plugged it into the monitor and the light on the brick started blinking and making a clicking noise, which indicated that the short protection was kicking in.

Then my monitor blew up. (i have since purchased a replacement)

So i got out the multimeter and checked the output and found that the polarity was reversed, + from - side and vice versa. This is the opposite of what the label says.

Looking at the internals i think i understand how this happened, this thing is a MESS. The picture below doesnt do it justice, there are huge gobs of solder, tiny chips floating crooked in big balls of solder, what appears to be rust.

Power Brick Backside

The model ID on mine is FY2405000 but this wasnt mentioned in the auction anywhere, Be careful and double and triple check if you buy one from eBay.


----------



## DrLeoMarvin

Just ordered my Catleap from BBC. Hopefully it gets here soon and is as amazing as I'm imagining.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hygglo*
> 
> i recived my YAMAKASI 2703 LED IPS Tempered Glass 27" LED 2560x1440 today but i think something is wrong. ;(
> The power button dosent work i think.
> When i plug in the power suply nothing happen with the screen. the power led are red for 2 seconds then it goes in to a blue flashing standby mode.
> And nothing happens when i press the on/off button:/ i have tryed it on different computers but still no picture.
> I hope the seller on ebay take it back and send me a new one..... Or can anything else be wrong with it?
> My graphic are a ATI HD 4770 mybe its to old?
> But i think the on/off button shuld work anyway..or?
> Sorry for bad english, im from sweden....


Sounds unfortunate...who did you order from?


----------



## j0v1al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alpha22*
> 
> Just a cautionary tale, the replacement power bricks on eBay are not necessarily correct even if the label on the back says they are. As suggested in the original post, i searched for "EFL-2202W Adapter" and found a seller who had the right type (or so i thought) and feedback indicating that other people had purchased the same item for their Catleap monitors and were happy.
> A few days later when i got it, i checked the label to be sure and everything checked out, it has the right input, the right output and the pinout diagram is identical to the stock powerbrick with + being the left side pins and - being the right side pins. The light on the brick was solid green, so i plugged it into the monitor and the light on the brick started blinking and making a clicking noise, which indicated that the short protection was kicking in.
> Then my monitor blew up. (i have since purchased a replacement)
> So i got out the multimeter and checked the output and found that the polarity was reversed, + from - side and vice versa. This is the opposite of what the label says.
> Looking at the internals i think i understand how this happened, this thing is a MESS. The picture below doesnt do it justice, there are huge gobs of solder, tiny chips floating crooked in big balls of solder, what appears to be rust.
> Power Brick Backside
> The model ID on mine is FY2405000 but this wasnt mentioned in the auction anywhere, Be careful and double and triple check if you buy one from eBay.


Why did you get a different power brick? I have the 190-220V rated input brick, I'm in the US. My first monitor came with the 110-220V one. I have had no issues so far. Is there any known problems with the 190-220V if the outlet is 120V rated?


----------



## ivanlabrie

Do you guys know how much the shippings costs?
I know the seller doesn't charge you with shipping, BUT I need to know cause customs will charge me with a 50% tax and I gotta do the math before pulling the trigger.
Thanks!


----------



## alpha22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *j0v1al*
> 
> Why did you get a different power brick? I have the 190-220V rated input brick, I'm in the US. My first monitor came with the 110-220V one. I have had no issues so far. Is there any known problems with the 190-220V if the outlet is 120V rated?


Because my stock power brick was hitting 125F and causing my monitor to lose power until it cooled off. I took measures to keep it cool and it was still burning up, so i went and bought a new one.


----------



## exhibitO

Which seller comes with US power brick


----------



## ivanlabrie

I'm buying the 23" ips 1080p Catleap...I'll post back when I get it.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I'm buying the 23" ips 1080p Catleap...I'll post back when I get it.


lol, i'm sure you can find 23" locally as well and low $150 mark. (but not sure in your area.)


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> lol, i'm sure you can find 23" locally as well and low $150 mark. (but not sure in your area.)


Read my location









Argentina...
$510 for a tn panel, 1080p lcd monitor.
Now, what do you think about my ips 23" led backlit Catleap?


----------



## exhibitO

Whats the difference between the SE version, or is it the same?


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Whats the difference between the SE version, or is it the same?


I was wondering the same thing.

Also which is better Catleap or Crossover?


----------



## LC155

Same panel, choose your price and housing.

Don't care about the bezel and want cheap? Get catleap.

Want a all metal enclosure for more money? Crossover.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Same panel, choose your price and housing.
> Don't care about the bezel and want cheap? Get catleap.
> Want a all metal enclosure for more money? Crossover.


Which has a bigger bezel?


----------



## djriful

Crossover Bezel is full metal body but the stand has issue due to the design flaw. Catleap one I heard they wobble. If you want the best of all, Crossover Pivot edition. The stand is incredible solid + tilt + rotate + height adjustment. It costs only $350-$380.


----------



## TranquilTempest

I'm curious what sort of framerates a GTX 680 can hit at native resolution, does anyone with SC2 have one of these monitors running at 120hz?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TranquilTempest*
> 
> I'm curious what sort of framerates a GTX 680 can hit at native resolution, does anyone with SC2 have one of these monitors running at 120hz?


I had a gtx590 which is fater then a gtx 680 and i would get about 50 -60fps maxed at 2560x1440


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Whats the difference between the SE version, or is it the same?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing.
> Also which is better Catleap or Crossover?


*SE* = No Speakers
*Non-SE* = Speakers


----------



## KyesaRRi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I had a gtx590 which is fater then a gtx 680 and i would get about 50 -60fps maxed at 2560x1440


I thought sc2 had crossfire / sli issues or has that been fixed on blizzards end?


----------



## amazing235

Hey,
I've noticed on ebay, there's a new version of Yamakasi monitor,
which is called Catleap Q271.
On its product description, it has HDMI 1.4a for connect on HDMI input and its max resolution of 2560x1440.

Do you know anything about this?
Is this mean I could use the monitor as HDTV or what?


----------



## TranquilTempest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I had a gtx590 which is fater then a gtx 680 and i would get about 50 -60fps maxed at 2560x1440


Huh, I found some benchmarks upwards of 80fps already, but they looked CPU capped(http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GeForce_GTX_680_SLI/16.html), maybe I need to wait for big kepler//haswell or settle for 120hz 1080p.


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amazing235*
> 
> Hey,
> I've noticed on ebay, there's a new version of Yamakasi monitor,
> which is called Catleap Q271.
> On its product description, it has HDMI 1.4a for connect on HDMI input and its max resolution of 2560x1440.
> Do you know anything about this?
> Is this mean I could use the monitor as HDTV or what?


http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1675393&page=158


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TranquilTempest*
> 
> Huh, I found some benchmarks upwards of 80fps already, but they looked CPU capped(http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/ASUS/GeForce_GTX_680_SLI/16.html), maybe I need to wait for big kepler//haswell or settle for 120hz 1080p.


Just telling you my real world performance with a gtx 590.


----------



## elvemo

Just got my yamakasi q270 White version. Ordered from dream-seller and the delivery time was about a week. Checked for dead pixels and couldnt find any. Super happy with the monitor and if anyone wants i can post pictures of the beauty


----------



## ShowMeYourBird

Got my Yamakasi Catleap Q270SE from green-sum non pixel perfect. Came with no dead pixels.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2397326105%0D%0A










Maybe getting it today? Not sure.


----------



## WhyCry

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2397326105%0D%0A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe getting it today? Not sure.


Lol that would be fast, look at mine


So here's my Catleap, it does have noticeable bleeding on the edges (lowering the brightness reduces the effect but it's still quite bad). I have one bright pixel. But monitor is ok, pictures don't present how big it is.
Sorry for the mess, but I'm building a new rig, there's a 17 inch notebook in the foreground and 20 inch monitor in the background. I have not tested if it can be overclocked and didn't apply any color schemes, because I'm on testing rig with XP.
The power supply is huge (it's on the photos, left side to the monitor) and the cables are very short (both the power and DVI cable). Ordered it from greensum.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *freitz*
> 
> Which has a bigger bezel?


Catleap. Crossover bezel is similar to the DELL's in size (except for the bottom). It's pretty impressive.


----------



## freitz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Catleap. Crossover bezel is similar to the DELL's in size (except for the bottom). It's pretty impressive.


Which has less input lag.

And both are faster then u2711 or 2412m? because of being s-ips?


----------



## LC155

Which has less input lag? Formatting confused me there... but either way - definitely Catleap/Crossover. No scalars and such. (A scalar on that res will make for horrifying input lag times imo, unless the DVI port bypasses it [which is does on some monitors]).

I don't get why it's called S-IPS. That's a dead tech. All IPS monitors made in the past couples of years have all been H-IPS. The pixel structure confirms that. The dell just has a wide gamut CCFL backlight and dithering to get 10 bit (on the U27).

Either way, for gaming, they will destroy the Dell so long as you don't need extra inputs..


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2397326105%0D%0A
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe getting it today? Not sure.


same flight going out as well.

http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2756839540%0D%0A


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> same flight going out as well.
> http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2756839540%0D%0A


Haha, what a coincidence.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Which has less input lag? Formatting confused me there... but either way - definitely Catleap/Crossover. No scalars and such. (A scalar on that res will make for horrifying input lag times imo, unless the DVI port bypasses it [which is does on some monitors]).
> I don't get why it's called S-IPS. That's a dead tech. All IPS monitors made in the past couples of years have all been H-IPS. The pixel structure confirms that. The dell just has a wide gamut CCFL backlight and dithering to get 10 bit (on the U27).
> Either way, for gaming, they will destroy the Dell so long as you don't need extra inputs..


This cat leap has more imputlag then my dell.. I could hardly ever notice it on my dell....
On The catleap it is very noticeable.

And gaming looks about the same.. beside the more input lag this catleap has..

Like i said before u have had to own both.. to say something about one or the other is better.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> This cat leap has more imputlag then my dell..
> And gaming looks about the same.. beside the more input lag this catleap has..
> Like i said before u have had to own both.. to say something about one or the other is better.


For the price point though, the Catleap can't be beat







.


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> This cat leap has more imputlag then my dell.. I could hardly ever notice it on my dell....
> On The catleap it is very noticeable.
> And gaming looks about the same.. beside the more input lag this catleap has..
> Like i said before u have had to own both.. to say something about one or the other is better.


Can you give me figures? I'm finding it hard to believe a scalar beats a non scalar for input lag.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> For the price point though, the Catleap can't be beat
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I agree 100% why i sold my u2711 and got the catleap lol.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Can you give me figures? I'm finding it hard to believe a scalar beats a non scalar for input lag.


Just from gaming.. gen use i can notice input lag on the catleap i could almost never notice it with my dell..

That may be due to the cheap DVI cable that comes with the catleap tho.. dell had a very very nice dvi cable.


----------



## WALSRU

I took the plunge and ordered a Yamakasi Leonidas 300 - 30" 2560x1600. Currently in customs per tracking.

It was double the price of the 270 but I'm a sucker for tall monitors. With my eyefinity rig I find myself much more immersed in portrait mode over landscape so I sprung for the 16x10.

I'll fill stuff out and post lots of pictures when it gets here. Seems like I might be one of the first to get this model??


----------



## jam3s

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> I took the plunge and ordered a Yamakasi Leonidas 300 - 30" 2560x1600. Currently in customs per tracking.
> It was double the price of the 270 but I'm a sucker for tall monitors. With my eyefinity rig I find myself much more immersed in portrait mode over landscape so I sprung for the 16x10.
> I'll fill stuff out and post lots of pictures when it gets here. Seems like I might be one of the first to get this model??


You may well be.

I heard it's not as good as the Q270


----------



## WALSRU

I can't find a write-up on it anywhere. Could you be more specific?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> I can't find a write-up on it anywhere. Could you be more specific?


Link. Sorry to rain on your parade bro.


----------



## sidrenwada

How can i tell if i can OC mine? and dose it have speakers its the SE version


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Link. Sorry to rain on your parade bro.


Somehow didn't find that thread, stupid search function.









Don't worry I brought my umbrella. I'll just cross my fingers and hope it's not that bad. Otherwise they do have a return policy and I'll eat return shipping.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Google translate*
> Unfortunately, clouds of very low contrast value this hitherto almost perfect performance. A maximum contrast ratio of 700:1 can be achieved only if the brightness by 80 percent, with lower values, it deteriorates significantly. This will also be the reason why the monitor is shipped from the factory with exactly this setting. With our recommended brightness of 140 cd / m corresponds to the contrast only 450:1. It must therefore be weighed up, unfortunately, whether it can be lived with a high brightness and low contrast.
> 
> Despite the minimal detectable streaking the monitor is suitable for casual gamers who enjoy the large size of the screen through games better. For high resolution, however, has a powerful graphics card are available or can be interpolated. During interpolation, the monitor cuts but also performed well, so that this is not an obstacle.
> 
> For movie fans of the monitor alone is suitable for the size. He also has no halos and can also play 24 Hz signals. Unfortunately, the non-swivel stand, which is a shame in this particular application. For playback of signals from an external device the other hand, is poorly suited Shimian QH300. 16:9 signals are always enlarged to full screen and so distorted. A playback with small black bars above and below is not possible. In PC mode, these bars are automatically displayed by the player, so there is no criticism must be expressed.
> 
> With a price of € 895.00 is currently the Shimian QH300 the best available device on the German market with a resolution of 2,560 x 1,600 pixels and a size of 30 inches. An alternative is to call the Dell U3011, however, is 100 euros more expensive, but offer the features and ergonomics has more.
> 
> In spite of many positive points in the scores, the Shimian QH300 missed because of the brightness control, a "good" overall rating. Who's monitor operates like something lighter anyway, in this case with about 220 cd / m², will surely be satisfied with the 30 incher. However, this also means: Hands off the brightness control. For all the brightness of the image is not quite as bright and rather prefer a brightness of 140 cd / m² prefer, you should look for alternatives.
> 
> Overall rating: SATISFACTORY


Keep in mind the whole reason for going to the monster monitor is because I'm used to gaming on a triple 23" led tft setup. In portrait mode the color shift is AWFUL. That and half the games I want to play either crash or work very poorly with eyefinity/surround. I'm probably not the hardest guy to impress with image quality at this point.

Also I just bought a decent Nikon and hope to do some photo editing with this monitor.


----------



## Hydros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> I sprung for the 16x10.
> I'll fill stuff out and post lots of pictures when it gets here. Seems like I might be one of the first to get this model??


Not strange. People prefer 16:9 these days.

Ridiculous pricing and way to low pixel density on that 30" 2560x1600 thing. The pixels are almost big as bricks!

27 inch and 2560x1440 FTW!


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> This cat leap has more imputlag then my dell.. I could hardly ever notice it on my dell....
> On The catleap it is very noticeable.
> And gaming looks about the same.. beside the more input lag this catleap has..
> Like i said before u have had to own both.. to say something about one or the other is better.


Which version of the Catleap do you have? The Multi or regular with just DVI?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hydros*
> 
> Not strange. People prefer 16:9 these days.
> Ridiculous pricing and way to low pixel density on that 30" 2560x1600 thing. The pixels are almost big as bricks!
> 27 inch and 2560x1440 FTW!


Never considered the pixel density on 30". I was looking at 30" Ultrasharps as a future investment and my brother showed me this thread. I was initially disappointed by how Catleaps were only 27", but your point makes a lot of sense. 27" and their extremely high pixel density make them worth it.


----------



## WALSRU

Big as bricks huh? I was playing Skryim on a 30" at Microcenter over the weekend and it looked pretty dang good.

I'm starting to suspect people on the internet like to exaggerate a little bit.

/sarcasm

edit: Some hard facts - The 2560x1600 display comes in at 101 pixels per inch, whereas my previous monitor was 24"@1080p was 91 pixels per inch. Looks like improvement to me.


----------



## supxm

hi,guys

i'm interested by the model YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 LED MULTI 27" with WHITE bezel
(it just released this month)

Right now, none of these sellers sell it :AW,BBC, green-sum only dream-seller got it.
i email dream-seller, he don't assure me with his policy of return :
he don't accept return of item without sending photos which can prove the monitor has problems.

And it's a problem for me i don't have cameras at all.









1)do you think i can trust dream-seller ?
2)what about the others sellers : AW,BBC, green-sum ? they ask photos must be provided to prove the monitor problem too?

White version is beautiful,much better than black for me. i hesitate to go with dream-seller(lowest price)
or waiting till AW or BBC sell it (if they do of course).


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Which version of the Catleap do you have? The Multi or regular with just DVI?


Regular DVI


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Regular DVI


Hmmm what makes you say it has input lag compare to the dell? Everything I've read has indicated the input lag is low to non-existent on the standard models.


----------



## dasvidanya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I got it for 260$ shipped perfect pix from Evga forums.
> Monitor works fine... I was kinda used to anti glare.. screen looking bright looks funny atm but i think i like it..
> It is just the common cheap bezel the back plastic and the stand is cheap.. If you had a u2711 for 2 years u would feel the same there very sturdy built.
> But for selling the u2711 for 600$ and getting this for 260$ im not looking back right now... I just hope the panel lasts..


You bought one for $260 perfect pix? Where did you find one so cheap? I went on the Evga forums and couldn't find anything except someone linking to ebay/amazon for $350.


----------



## Hokies83

Im not saying it does.. I have witnessed it doing it while gaming
and even switching between web pages.
It May be due to the cheap DVI cable that comes with it.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dasvidanya*
> 
> You bought one for $260 perfect pix? Where did you find one so cheap? I went on the Evga forums and couldn't find anything except someone linking to ebay/amazon for $350.


The guy has sold them all already


----------



## dasvidanya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> The guy has sold them all already


Aww damnit. D; Just my luck.


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Hmmm what makes you say it has input lag compare to the dell? Everything I've read has indicated the input lag is low to non-existent on the standard models.


I'll report back on mine once it arrives. The higher delay models have 17ms of lag which translates to about 1 frame out of 60 per second. I play fighting games like Street Fighter and Marvel vs Capcom at a medium-high level of skill and can tell you that a 1 frame input lag isn't going to hurt you in 99% of games. Especially if you're playing online.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> It May be due to the cheap DVI cable that comes with it.


Not sure how a cable would cause lag?


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> i email dream-seller, he don't assure me with his policy of return :
> he don't accept return of item without sending photos which can prove the monitor has problems.
> 
> And it's a problem for me i don't have cameras at all.
> 
> 1)do you think i can trust dream-seller ?
> 2)what about the others sellers : AW,BBC, green-sum ? they ask photos must be provided to prove the monitor problem too?


I am going to believe that you are trying being funny, So I will be funny also

The Nerve of that mean - dream-seller - not wanting to guarantee you a perfect monitor
After all, he is selling Cheap back alley screens that alot of people are happy with
The worst part is that after he mails this Cheap Back Alley Screen to the Other side of the Planet
He want Pictures, If you do not think that it is perfect,, Pictures , That is just an insult,
That means your word is not good enough for him , He wants picture proof

I would not trust this nasty - dream-seller - or any of the others
If they will not believe you without a few nasty pictures then you should not believe them


----------



## LC155

Yeah, asking for pictures is not unreasonable. Shipping from Korea to around the world is expensive as hell.


----------



## computerdeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> i email dream-seller, he don't assure me with his policy of return :
> he don't accept return of item without sending photos which can prove the monitor has problems.
> And it's a problem for me i don't have cameras at all.
> 1)do you think i can trust dream-seller ?
> 2)what about the others sellers : AW,BBC, green-sum ? they ask photos must be provided to prove the monitor problem too?
> 
> 
> 
> I am going to believe that you are trying being funny, So I will be funny also
> The Nerve of that mean - dream-seller - not wanting to guarantee you a perfect monitor
> After all, he is selling Cheap back alley screens that alot of people are happy with
> The worst part is that after he mails this Cheap Back Alley Screen to the Other side of the Planet
> He want Pictures, If you do not think that it is perfect,, Pictures , That is just an insult,
> That means your word is not good enough for him , He wants picture proof
> I would not trust this nasty - dream-seller - or any of the others
> If they will not believe you without a few nasty pictures then you should not believe them
Click to expand...

I had to send back a Crossover 27Q P LED "Perfect Pixel" back to AW.
Monitor came with a dark strip/mark near the bottom of the screen.
I just sent them an email about the issue and asked for a refund.
They replied saying I could send it back.
They didn't ask for any proof.
I sent it back and AW covered the shipping cost.
Once they received the monitor, I got an email saying they received it and are going to refund me my money.
Got my money back.
AW provided great service imo.


----------



## LC155

Yeah, AW are one of the sellers who will take the monitors back - expected, because of the premium you are paying.

How was the communication? How would you rate it?

Who are you going to go for now, since you didn't ask for a replacement?


----------



## computerdeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> Yeah, AW are one of the sellers who will take the monitors back - expected, because of the premium you are paying.
> How was the communication? How would you rate it?
> Who are you going to go for now, since you didn't ask for a replacement?


They were nice. It took about a business day to hear from them every time I emailed them.
I was offered some options on sending it back to them.

Possibly from AW again because of their customer service.


----------



## Mommy3boyz

Hi all. Just joined since I ordered a Yamakasi Cat Leap 2300 perfect pixel yesterday off a daily deal from green sum. I've done enough research to know that $189 for this 23 incher got my 13 year old a pretty great monitor. I'm still a bit of a nube on some of this stuff though.

Two questions for you pros:
1) Scribby, forgive my ignorance but I read your original post and I'm still not clear what, if any extra cables I should have on hand for it's arrival.

2). For those of you that purchased from green sum, he says he is giving 2 to 5 day shipping but my estimate is for July 28 to august 5th. His reviews all praise him for fast shipping. Tracking number doesn't work yet. Should I expect it sooner?

Okay, said two questions, but here goes a third:

My son's first experience with this will be with SWTOR. Considering that he will eventually move beyond that game (and a mouse and keyboard made just for SWTOR might or might not be the best choice), any recommendations on good keyboards and a mouse for this setup? For those interested, the rest of the system is:

Microtel Computer AMTI9041 gaming computer with 3.4GHz AMD Phenom processor, 12 GB DDR3 1333mhz, 1TB hard drive 7200rpm, 24x DVD-RW, Nvidia GTX-T1. 1 GB video card, Microsoft windows 7 home premium home version, 64 bit +WiFi

Thanks for your help for this nube mom of three boys!

Mommy3boyz


----------



## Onions

so im gonna be sellign my monitors to pick one of these up. What do you think are they worth it?


----------



## macschwag14

I'm really liking my Catleap so far but have two things that I'm wondering if are fixable.

1) Recently whenever I push the button to turn on the monitor on the monitor will make a tapping sound. If I don't push the button a certain way, the tapping sound will continue but will alternative between a single tap and two taps -- like it's sending me a message in Morse code or something. Sometimes when it's doing this the screen will turn off between the time it goes from BIOS to the desktop, after which the tapping will stop and the screen remains on. The LED remains solid green this whole time it's doing this.

Other times the only way I can make it stop tapping is to hold the monitor's power button down for a few seconds, wait for it to make a long farting sound, and then turn it on again.

Is this something I should be worried about? Is it easily fixable? I've already had to open it up to connect a cable to get it to work and I'd prefer never to have do it again.









2) So the picture is gorgeous, but I have a bright green that's stuck almost dead center in the screen. Most of the time it's not an issue but when watching movies or playing games my eyes always go right toward it. Is this fixable? I've found methods and programs claiming to fix it but haven't had any luck so far. I tried the damp cloth pen method and ran JScreenFix for a few hours. Since it's an IPS screen I've read that these methods won't work.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## macschwag14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mommy3boyz*
> 
> 2). For those of you that purchased from green sum, he says he is giving 2 to 5 day shipping but my estimate is for July 28 to august 5th. His reviews all praise him for fast shipping. Tracking number doesn't work yet. Should I expect it sooner?
> Mommy3boyz


When I ordered from green sum a few weeks ago I received my monitor in 5 business days. The tracking number showed up once the monitor was in the States, which then took 3 days to get here (I live in the Midwest). You'll first probably receive a PDF of the English manual from green sum before you get a tracking number.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mommy3boyz*
> 
> Hi all. Just joined since I ordered a Yamakasi Cat Leap 2300 perfect pixel yesterday off a daily deal from green sum. I've done enough research to know that $189 for this 23 incher got my 13 year old a pretty great monitor. I'm still a bit of a nube on some of this stuff though.
> Two questions for you pros:
> 1) Scribby, forgive my ignorance but I read your original post and I'm still not clear what, if any extra cables I should have on hand for it's arrival.
> 2). For those of you that purchased from green sum, he says he is giving 2 to 5 day shipping but my estimate is for July 28 to august 5th. His reviews all praise him for fast shipping. Tracking number doesn't work yet. Should I expect it sooner?
> Okay, said two questions, but here goes a third:
> My son's first experience with this will be with SWTOR. Considering that he will eventually move beyond that game (and a mouse and keyboard made just for SWTOR might or might not be the best choice), any recommendations on good keyboards and a mouse for this setup? For those interested, the rest of the system is:
> Microtel Computer AMTI9041 gaming computer with 3.4GHz AMD Phenom processor, 12 GB DDR3 1333mhz, 1TB hard drive 7200rpm, 24x DVD-RW, Nvidia GTX-T1. 1 GB video card, Microsoft windows 7 home premium home version, 64 bit +WiFi
> Thanks for your help for this nube mom of three boys!
> Mommy3boyz


ordered friday night. received tracking monday. shipment left korea yesterday night. i expect it to be here tomorrow or fri the latest.


----------



## exhibitO

Hmm, seems like the prices went up, pixel perfect SE going for $367 now?


----------



## Hokies83

Ima have to get one of these... 7680x4320







ETA 2020...


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *macschwag14*
> 
> I'm really liking my Catleap so far but have two things that I'm wondering if are fixable.
> 1) Recently whenever I push the button to turn on the monitor on the monitor will make a tapping sound. If I don't push the button a certain way, the tapping sound will continue but will alternative between a single tap and two taps -- like it's sending me a message in Morse code or something. Sometimes when it's doing this the screen will turn off between the time it goes from BIOS to the desktop, after which the tapping will stop and the screen remains on. The LED remains solid green this whole time it's doing this.
> Other times the only way I can make it stop tapping is to hold the monitor's power button down for a few seconds, wait for it to make a long farting sound, and then turn it on again.
> Is this something I should be worried about? Is it easily fixable? I've already had to open it up to connect a cable to get it to work and I'd prefer never to have do it again.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 2) So the picture is gorgeous, but I have a bright green that's stuck almost dead center in the screen. Most of the time it's not an issue but when watching movies or playing games my eyes always go right toward it. Is this fixable? I've found methods and programs claiming to fix it but haven't had any luck so far. I tried the damp cloth pen method and ran JScreenFix for a few hours. Since it's an IPS screen I've read that these methods won't work.
> Thanks in advance!


Did you get the pixel perfect version?


----------



## macschwag14

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Did you get the pixel perfect version?


No, I took a gamble. I read several comments from people who bought pixel perfect and had issues and from ones who didn't and had perfect monitors.


----------



## Zayn3

Just got mine on Monday! I was going to use my 23" 1080 as a secondary display but after I saw the image quality on the Catleap I had to throw the 23" out the window.

This is an amazing piece of equipment I would recommend it to everyone.

if you haven't lived with 2560x1440 then you haven't lived at all!


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zayn3*
> 
> Just got mine on Monday! I was going to use my 23" 1080 as a secondary display but after I saw the image quality on the Catleap I had to throw the 23" out the window.
> This is an amazing piece of equipment I would recommend it to everyone.
> if you haven't lived with 2560x1440 then you haven't lived at all!


Now get a second one...


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Now get a second one...


And a third one... never overkill on OCN


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ice-dragoon25*
> 
> And a third one... never overkill on OCN


My desk is limiting me.


----------



## LC155

The solution is:

New desk time.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> My desk is limiting me.


Is that a Catleap?


----------



## lusal

No. That's a Crossover. If you look at the logo you can clearly see the Cross8Over logo along the bottom bezel. I received my Catleap Q270 Multi from AW in 3 days. Paid a slight premium buying it via Amazon, but it's arrived in record time and is immaculate with no dead/stuck pixels and no visible bleed.

Best purchase I've made in a long time.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> My desk is limiting me.


Very clean.

I sort of want to see a Catleap in that picture so I have a good idea on how it looks compared to the others aesthetics and size wise.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> ordered friday night. received tracking monday. shipment left korea yesterday night. i expect it to be here tomorrow or fri the latest.


You were in the same batch that got sent out from Incheon this morning right? If so, you should get it tomorrow.


----------



## Onions

puchased one from red cap im excited


----------



## Twistacles

HNNNGG

I wish I wasn't a student so I could justify getting this. So much want.

My 7970 would be so happy with this T________T


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twistacles*
> 
> HNNNGG
> I wish I wasn't a student so I could justify getting this. So much want.
> My 7970 would be so happy with this T________T


So you were able to rationalize a 7970 but not a monitor that will arguably have a larger impact on your computer-using experience?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Guess I never got around to joining the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here's my Catleap:
> 
> 9/10 for condition, 10/10 overall. The only defect I have is a small backlight bleed along the top edge. Doesn't bother me since it's only visible on a black screen in a dark room.
> It's a pixel perfect from greensum, 2C model


just found this on google images what stand is that and does it rotate? thanks


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> So you were able to rationalize a 7970 but not a monitor that will arguably have a larger impact on your computer-using experience?


yeah i kinda have to agree with this lol


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mommy3boyz*
> 
> Hi all. Just joined since I ordered a Yamakasi Cat Leap 2300 perfect pixel yesterday off a daily deal from green sum. I've done enough research to know that $189 for this 23 incher got my 13 year old a pretty great monitor. I'm still a bit of a nube on some of this stuff though.
> Two questions for you pros:
> 1) Scribby, forgive my ignorance but I read your original post and I'm still not clear what, if any extra cables I should have on hand for it's arrival.
> 2). For those of you that purchased from green sum, he says he is giving 2 to 5 day shipping but my estimate is for July 28 to august 5th. His reviews all praise him for fast shipping. Tracking number doesn't work yet. Should I expect it sooner?
> Okay, said two questions, but here goes a third:
> My son's first experience with this will be with SWTOR. Considering that he will eventually move beyond that game (and a mouse and keyboard made just for SWTOR might or might not be the best choice), any recommendations on good keyboards and a mouse for this setup? For those interested, the rest of the system is:
> Microtel Computer AMTI9041 gaming computer with 3.4GHz AMD Phenom processor, 12 GB DDR3 1333mhz, 1TB hard drive 7200rpm, 24x DVD-RW, Nvidia GTX-T1. 1 GB video card, Microsoft windows 7 home premium home version, 64 bit +WiFi
> Thanks for your help for this nube mom of three boys!
> Mommy3boyz




I think that is all you will need, it does come with a power cable, but European/Korean type and there may be an adapter included with it.

Microsoft Sidewinder x4 (Keyboard) and Logitech G400 (mouse) are well priced and decent for gaming.


----------



## WALSRU

Just paid $80 duty and tax fee on this monitor at customs. OUCH!


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> Just paid $80 duty and tax fee on this monitor at customs. OUCH!


That such, I shud finally get my crossover today, I only have to pay $21 on tax


----------



## WALSRU

Lucky dog.









I'm still enthusiastic to get it even if I've lowered my expectations a bit (Yamakasi 30"). I'm not expecting eye-popping colors like LED, every LED monitor I've had I run at like 30% brightness anyway. I just need good accurate color, minimal blur, good viewing angles, and SIZE. Oh, and backlight bleed bugs me.

... ok I guess I do have high expectations.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Well, just had the 27" monitor (tempered glass, no speaker variation) delivered to my house. I'm still at work but will update you guys when I get back home.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Well, just had the 27" monitor (tempered glass, no speaker variation) delivered to my house. I'm still at work but will update you guys when I get back home.


Oh nice, I excited to see your pictures and your feedback! I think i will be getting the same as yours in a week or two, it just that i'm waiting for some feedback from OCN


----------



## voltaire2030

Good evening folks !

Since I came here, I decided to pull the plug and I just ordered from dream-seller the white catleap SE and they mentionned it's a june 2012 model. Any special thing with the june 2012 model ? 120hz?

Thx for your input in advance


----------



## Tomus

Just recieved my perfect pixel from greensum and it's perfect









look at this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> Just recieved my perfect pixel from greensum and it's perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> look at this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Thanks. Did you ge the Se or non se?

How long did it take from order to arrival? I ordered mine 24 hours ago, and I havent heard a peep from him.


----------



## WALSRU

Breaking it in with some SupCom I see. I've never made a base that pretty lol


----------



## Tomus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks. Did you ge the Se or non se?
> How long did it take from order to arrival? I ordered mine 24 hours ago, and I havent heard a peep from him.


i have the SE. I was allso a bit curious about the delivery, first notification came from ebay, then came mail from DHL with tracking number. I'm probably not the good example but, from the order it took 2 days to start moving from korea and two days later it came to my country. But it had to pass some import checking which took another 3 days and then another 2 days for them to deliver it to my home.

tl;dr: i got my dhl tracking the 5th day from order.


----------



## cre8ive65

I'm very confused and I've heard mixed answers but, do i have to buy a power converter or not!? can I just switch out the cable with a standard PSU wall cord?


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Well, just had the 27" monitor (tempered glass, no speaker variation) delivered to my house. I'm still at work but will update you guys when I get back home.


Ditto! My 2 white catleaps are on its way to being delivered. I ordered it late Fri night. Not too bad for shipping, 6 days total. Will post pictures/reviews when i get home to set it up.


----------



## londonfire93

my second catleap should be delivered today . i ordered it Monday night from BCC. i hope it is as good as my first one.


----------



## ice-dragoon25

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> I'm very confused and I've heard mixed answers but, do i have to buy a power converter or not!? can I just switch out the cable with a standard PSU wall cord?


Yes, most of the time, it's will be a 110-240v power outlet, you can just easly take a cable from a standard psu or monitor, it should works. If you're not sure, you can check the voltage with a voltmeter


----------



## Vimm

Long time lurker here... is the Yamakasi 2703 a good choice?

I've hesitated to buy a screen for awhile since I cant decide which one to choose.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tomus*
> 
> Just recieved my perfect pixel from greensum and it's perfect
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> look at this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Look at what in that game screenshot?

And PLEASE as REMINDER. Posting EBAY LINK is against TOS here. Remove it if you can.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Look at what in that game screenshot?
> And PLEASE as REMINDER. Posting EBAY LINK is against TOS here. Remove it if you can.


Yeah I don't really get the point of doing a print screen unless he's trying to show the amount of screen real estate you get at that resolution.
A picture from a camera of the screen running the game would give us a better idea of how it looks.


----------



## cre8ive65

Also what is perfect pixel?


----------



## HeliXpc

How can i tell if its a 2B?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> Also what is perfect pixel?


Perfect pixel is when you pay extra to ensure that there are no dead pixels on the screen. For some manufacturers, you still end up getting some dead pixels, so IMO, it's really pointless.

Also, pictures and my first impressions in a couple minutes on my 27" tempered glass.


----------



## NateZ28

What do you guys think about the black detail level in *games* on the Catleap? I've heard from a few people that with IPS the blacks are saturated. How would ya'll compare the black detail to a good TN panel?


----------



## djriful

IPS display black levels are better than normal LCD screen.

I did a compare under my sig link to an Apple Cinema Display... what more can people ask? It's on par.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Yeah I don't really get the point of doing a print screen unless he's trying to show the amount of screen real estate you get at that resolution.
> A picture from a camera of the screen running the game would give us a better idea of how it looks.


I think he misunderstood about dead pixel. Dead pixel only shows at live view physically. Screenshots won't show anything even your whole screen is dead black and you can still screenshot just normal.

.


----------



## alcalina

Hi I get one perfect pixel from green sum, paying the extra. But it is the version that is impossible to overclock ( only 63hz).
Is there any seller that sells the "overclock" edition nowadays?

tks


----------



## jmarsiglio

Hey guys, so I am thinking of replacing my power brick since my monitor has issues when resuming from its sleep state, and I am pretty sure it is related to the power brick. Do I need a specific one?

Thanks


----------



## line6

Got the 2703 from bcc. Ordered it over the weekend had it Tuesday by 11am







crazy fast shipping. Had them open and test it. No dead pixels one tiny spec. Of dust half inch away from bottom corner. Very happy with it. bf3 looks awesome. Darks might be to dark I'm no expert but I think Gama adjustment should fix it ? Big upgrade from my 26 Asus.


----------



## baldbrah

got my 2 catleap 27" today. have 1 stuck bright green pixel on each screen, about the same area. doesn't bother me at all since i can only see it on a dark screen. no regrets selling the u3011 for these two beauties. never knew a monitor can look this nice without the antiglare bs. construction of the stand is cheap but idgaf. will probably get a monitor arm and put these on there.

does anyone know any good methods of getting rid of two stuck bright green pixels?


----------



## TranquilTempest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> got my 2 catleap 27" today. have 1 stuck bright green pixel on each screen, about the same area. doesn't bother me at all since i can only see it on a dark screen. no regrets selling the u3011 for these two beauties. never knew a monitor can look this nice without the antiglare bs. construction of the stand is cheap but idgaf. will probably get a monitor arm and put these on there.
> does anyone know any good methods of getting rid of two stuck bright green pixels?


Massage it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> got my 2 catleap 27" today. have 1 stuck bright green pixel on each screen, about the same area. doesn't bother me at all since i can only see it on a dark screen. no regrets selling the u3011 for these two beauties. never knew a monitor can look this nice without the antiglare bs. construction of the stand is cheap but idgaf. will probably get a monitor arm and put these on there.
> does anyone know any good methods of getting rid of two stuck bright green pixels?


Very nice! What is the keyboard you are using?


----------



## joon32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> got my 2 catleap 27" today. have 1 stuck bright green pixel on each screen, about the same area. doesn't bother me at all since i can only see it on a dark screen. no regrets selling the u3011 for these two beauties. never knew a monitor can look this nice without the antiglare bs. construction of the stand is cheap but idgaf. will probably get a monitor arm and put these on there.
> does anyone know any good methods of getting rid of two stuck bright green pixels?


Gorgeous set up. Love it. Thank you for sharing.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *line6*
> 
> Got the 2703 from bcc. Ordered it over the weekend had it Tuesday by 11am
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> crazy fast shipping. Had them open and test it. No dead pixels one tiny spec. Of dust half inch away from bottom corner. Very happy with it. bf3 looks awesome. *Darks might be to dark* I'm no expert but I think Gama adjustment should fix it ? Big upgrade from my 26 Asus.


Can you explain?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> got my 2 catleap 27" today. have 1 stuck bright green pixel on each screen, about the same area. doesn't bother me at all since i can only see it on a dark screen. no regrets selling the u3011 for these two beauties. never knew a monitor can look this nice without the antiglare bs. construction of the stand is cheap but idgaf. will probably get a monitor arm and put these on there.
> does anyone know any good methods of getting rid of two stuck bright green pixels?


http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TranquilTempest*
> 
> Massage it.


ok i will try that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Very nice! What is the keyboard you are using?


thats a leopold mechanical keyboard with custom keycaps

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joon32*
> 
> Gorgeous set up. Love it. Thank you for sharing.


thanks! glad to share it.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> http://www.flexcode.org/lcd2.html


how long do you suggest i run that for?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> how long do you suggest i run that for?


As long it fixes? Massage the screen where the stuck pixel is by using a soft cloth and gently rub it.

I've fixed 3 stuck pixel on my screen and almost none now.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

OK, sorry for the delay. Here are some pictures. If you need a specific picture of anything, just ask and I'll try to provide:
























Couple notes. No dust, no dead pixels. It did come with a few bright green pixels, but thanks to the link above, I have been able to resolve those issues.

Minor backlight bleeding towards the corners, somewhat moderately severe towards the bottom right corner. Won't really bother me, especially for the price that I paid for this.

Brother took all the pictures. You can see me with the crossed arms in one of the reflective pictures. Also, backlight bleeding isn't that severe like the picture showed, so don't worry. I can't really capture backlight bleeding all that well because my brother's camera doesn't work very well without a light source.

This is the new tempered glass model for those who are wondering. There is an improved back side that allows for easier mount installation, which I will do tomorrow. Yes, there is glass right above the viewing screen. No, I doubt it looks any different than the regular glossy screen. Thankfully, no dust was stuck underneath the glass either.

Also, desk will be upgraded on Sunday, so I'll probably take more pictures then.

Bought from BBC last Saturday. Monitor shipped around Wednesday night (Korean time). Got it delivered today.

Can anyone explain to me what the buttons on the bottom right are? They have no labels, besides the brightness adjuster and the button to turn the monitor on/off.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> thats a leopold mechanical keyboard with custom keycaps


I love those keycaps! Unfortunately I don't have a set, and I want them on a white keyboard. That would look very nice.









On topic, use the link that was posted earlier. That should work.


----------



## voltaire2030

Receive that message from dream-seller :

Hi!

Thanks for your message and for purchasing our product.
We checked your transaction record and could see that your order was done on July 11th which was July 12th in Korea time. So your product will be shipped out on July 13th. A tracking number will be updated in 10 hours. Would you check it later then, please?
By the way, starting from June, all the monitors are checked and tested before shipment. If there is no problem on your monitor which goes against return/exchange policy, it'll be shipped out as it is scheduled.

If you have any other question, please feel free to ask. We'll try our best to help you out as far as we can. Thanks again for your understanding in advance. Have a great day!

Best Regards,

- dream-seller

it looks that they are checking the monitor at no extra charge.


----------



## bbqrooster

Just received my Yamakasi Q270. I quickly hooked it up. It was gorgeous. Initial tests showed no dead pixel as promised (I ordered a perfect pixel one). I'll report more after I have done more thorough investigation.


----------



## NightmareGSX

Just received mine today. It's unreal. First ips panel. No dead pixels, color needs almost no changes. Love it!


----------



## malh2000

these are great panels...might get more soon!


----------



## malh2000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supxm*
> 
> hi,guys
> i'm interested by the model YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 LED MULTI 27" with WHITE bezel
> (it just released this month)
> Right now, none of these sellers sell it :AW,BBC, green-sum only dream-seller got it.
> i email dream-seller, he don't assure me with his policy of return :
> he don't accept return of item without sending photos which can prove the monitor has problems.
> And it's a problem for me i don't have cameras at all.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1)do you think i can trust dream-seller ?
> 2)what about the others sellers : AW,BBC, green-sum ? they ask photos must be provided to prove the monitor problem too?
> White version is beautiful,much better than black for me. i hesitate to go with dream-seller(lowest price)
> or waiting till AW or BBC sell it (if they do of course).


Earlier I had bought regular black 27" from gc, but cancelled it as he won't do a basic monitor test before sending. He advised to get a 'pixel perfect' version for more $$. I read in few forums incl here about BCC seller been really good and responsive and placed the order with him. He offered monitor pixel test for free, which I think is critical as returns on these would be a hassle from US. The shipment came in less than 3-4 bus days. The monitor didn't have a single dead pixel! and the white looks way nicer than the black dells I have used earlier for similar size/resolution.

BCC is a good seller IMHO with free monitor testing, very responsive & fast shipping.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> OK, sorry for the delay. Here are some pictures. If you need a specific picture of anything, just ask and I'll try to provide:
> 
> Couple notes. No dust, no dead pixels. It did come with a few bright green pixels, but thanks to the link above, I have been able to resolve those issues.
> Minor backlight bleeding towards the corners, somewhat moderately severe towards the bottom right corner. Won't really bother me, especially for the price that I paid for this.
> Brother took all the pictures. You can see me with the crossed arms in one of the reflective pictures. Also, backlight bleeding isn't that severe like the picture showed, so don't worry. I can't really capture backlight bleeding all that well because my brother's camera doesn't work very well without a light source.
> This is the new tempered glass model for those who are wondering. There is an improved back side that allows for easier mount installation, which I will do tomorrow. Yes, there is glass right above the viewing screen. No, I doubt it looks any different than the regular glossy screen. Thankfully, no dust was stuck underneath the glass either.
> Also, desk will be upgraded on Sunday, so I'll probably take more pictures then.
> Bought from BBC last Saturday. Monitor shipped around Wednesday night (Korean time). Got it delivered today.
> Can anyone explain to me what the buttons on the bottom right are? They have no labels, besides the brightness adjuster and the button to turn the monitor on/off.


nice pics/keyboard/mouse.

leopold tkl? after seeing yours, i switched back to my filco tkl, lol.

also, how long did you run that link for to fix the green pixel? mines been running for about 30 mins now and still there.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> nice pics/keyboard/mouse.
> leopold tkl? after seeing yours, i switched back to my filco tkl, lol.
> also, how long did you run that link for to fix the green pixel? mines been running for about 30 mins now and still there.


Naw, it's the old Filco Majestouch Tenkeyless Otaku keyboard...the one without any key printings. They don't make the Otaku version anymore







.

I ran that link for probably 10 minute tops. I don't see the green pixels anymore.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> IPS display black levels are better than normal LCD screen.
> I did a compare under my sig link to an Apple Cinema Display... what more can people ask? It's on par.
> I think he misunderstood about dead pixel. Dead pixel only shows at live view physically. Screenshots won't show anything even your whole screen is dead black and you can still screenshot just normal.
> .


Are you sure about this? This is kind of a deal breaker for me if the IPS sucks in dark scenes. I play a lot of games that have dark environments.
So you're saying the Catleap has better blacks than the newer 120hz gaming TN monitors?


----------



## solsamurai

IPS panels will always have better colors than any TN panels.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *solsamurai*
> 
> IPS panels will always have better colors than any TN panels.


Yeah but black is a different story. I've heard several people say that "IPS glow" can make the details in the dark environments hard to distinguish. I'd like input from people who game on the Catleaps and can compare to high end TN panels.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Yeah but black is a different story. I've heard several people say that "IPS glow" can make the details in the dark environments hard to distinguish. I'd like input from people who game on the Catleaps and can compare to high end TN panels.


It is better then any TN panel.

Worst IPS Panel = 5x better then best TN panel... One you go IPS u never go back...

I had a trade offer for my u2711 for 3x 120hz 24inch 3d panels.. i turned it down.. i wants IPS..


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Yeah but black is a different story. I've heard several people say that "IPS glow" can make the details in the dark environments hard to distinguish. I'd like input from people who game on the Catleaps and can compare to high end TN panels.


The glow does bug me a good bit on my Catleap, and I agree with blacks being a bit washed out


----------



## solsamurai

I can't speak for these monitors but my wife's Apple display (IPS) is amazing with colors and blacks.


----------



## solsamurai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> It is better then any TN panel.
> Worst IPS Panel = 5x better then best TN panel... One you go IPS u never go back...
> I had a trade offer for my u2711 for 3x 120hz 24inch 3d panels.. i turned it down.. i wants IPS..


This.

Eh, sorry for double post.


----------



## iammclovin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Perfect pixel is when you pay extra to ensure that there are no dead pixels on the screen. For some manufacturers, you still end up getting some dead pixels, so IMO, it's really pointless.
> Also, pictures and my first impressions in a couple minutes on my 27" tempered glass.


Just curious, did you get your monitor from Bigclothcraft?

I saw your pictures that you posted on this thread, and the monitor looks great! I've been debating between a Q270 and the 2703, and emailed Bigclothcraft to see what he had to say about the differences.

He wrote:
_"Hello
Almost same.
But 2703 use IPS Panel and Q270 use S-IPS model.
And 2703 has tempered glass.
About design, 2703 support VESA 100 x 100.
Thanks

- bigclothcraft"_

Just curious, do you have any plans to take your panel apart and see if it has the same LG panel that all the others have?

Seems weird though, since the picture of the box you posted, along with the front label on the monitor says S-IPS, but who knows with these monitors...


----------



## Balsagna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammclovin*
> 
> Just curious, did you get your monitor from Bigclothcraft?
> I saw your pictures that you posted on this thread, and the monitor looks great! I've been debating between a Q270 and the 2703, and emailed Bigclothcraft to see what he had to say about the differences.
> He wrote:
> _"Hello
> Almost same.
> But 2703 use IPS Panel and Q270 use S-IPS model.
> And 2703 has tempered glass.
> About design, 2703 support VESA 100 x 100.
> Thanks
> - bigclothcraft"_
> Just curious, do you have any plans to take your panel apart and see if it has the same LG panel that all the others have?
> Seems weird though, since the picture of the box you posted, along with the front label on the monitor says S-IPS, but who knows with these monitors...


He's trying to sell u the monitor. They are all the same panels.

As for who to buy from is also about the same. They basically drop them straight from warehouse and if you order the pixel perfect they supposedly catch them and some make it through with dead or stuck pixels since its human beings are the one checking them.

It happens but a perfect pixel doesn't have as many sells with bad displays vs the normal sales.


----------



## djriful

I'm not sure why you're seeing glow. It is due to the polarized angle when you were viewing it. To be honest with you, matte screen has more glow in black / dark image than IPS display.

I've been using my Apple Cinema IPS display on all movies / games / photography. It is much much better than my old LG matte screen. My MacBook Pro matte screen has more glow at the bottom than IPS.

The glow is usually appear if you view at 80 degree angle. Try looking at 90 degree on regular LCD.

IPS display are designed to be view at 178 degree.

On the second note.

@Admiral Mudkipz

About the tempered glass monitor... I don't think I would like that high reflectivity because even on my Apple tempered glass with a straight shot photo at the screen, the reflection won't be clear as yours. From your photo is look like a mirror.

xD


----------



## braveblade

Any review on Q271? HDMI 1.4 looks interesting. Stand is improved as well.


----------



## H8ff0000

Can someone please list what all the default values for this monitor are in CRU?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H8ff0000*
> 
> Can someone please list what all the default values for this monitor are in CRU?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammclovin*
> 
> Just curious, did you get your monitor from Bigclothcraft?
> I saw your pictures that you posted on this thread, and the monitor looks great! I've been debating between a Q270 and the 2703, and emailed Bigclothcraft to see what he had to say about the differences.
> He wrote:
> _"Hello
> Almost same.
> But 2703 use IPS Panel and Q270 use S-IPS model.
> And 2703 has tempered glass.
> About design, 2703 support VESA 100 x 100.
> Thanks
> - bigclothcraft"_
> Just curious, do you have any plans to take your panel apart and see if it has the same LG panel that all the others have?
> Seems weird though, since the picture of the box you posted, along with the front label on the monitor says S-IPS, but who knows with these monitors...


Thanks for the comment on the pictures. Yes, I did buy from bigclothcraft. Yes, they are the same panels...just go with whichever you want. And no, I don't plan on taking this panel apart.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> @Admiral Mudkipz
> About the tempered glass monitor... I don't think I would like that high reflectivity because even on my Apple tempered glass with a straight shot photo at the screen, the reflection won't be clear as yours. From your photo is look like a mirror.
> xD


Lol, indeed. I personally like it that way and think it's pretty cool. I don't really see my reflection with normal use so I don't worry about it too much.


----------



## H8ff0000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


Thanks for the reply


----------



## ElevenEleven

I own 2 tempered glass ShiMians, and you only get that high reflectivity impression in photographs - in normal use it's about as reflective as a non-glasss CrossOver I temporarily had. I took photos of my ShiMians and also noticed that with the displays turned off, the surface looked darkly mirrored, but I think it's because of the way camera sensors process the light bouncing back from a monitor vs. our eyes.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Serious though...does anyone know what any of the buttons on the right bottom corner of the new 27" monitor are for? I've only got the brightness and the on/off buttons, and that's because they're actually labeled. The rest I've pressed and played around with, but the display doesn't really seem to change, so I have no idea what they're for.


----------



## supxm

Too beautiful the white version.









Need the MULTI white version..I don't understand why AW, BCC or G-S don't sell it yet.


----------



## WALSRU

My monitor is still in customs, so much for having it a week after purchase. On the bright side the ebay seller sent me a message to apologize for the long shipping delay (unsolicited) which I thought was a nice touch for such a high volume seller.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Serious though...does anyone know what any of the buttons on the right bottom corner of the new 27" monitor are for? I've only got the brightness and the on/off buttons, and that's because they're actually labeled. The rest I've pressed and played around with, but the display doesn't really seem to change, so I have no idea what they're for.


On mine (older model ) the buttons for volume are beside the brightness and on/off button/s and I don't have any speaker or input socket for sound, so it could be them.


----------



## londonfire93

I should be getting my second one today. I I was supposed to get it yesterday but I stepped out for about an hour and dhl came


----------



## voltaire2030

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supxm*
> 
> 
> Too beautiful the white version.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need the MULTI white version..I don't understand why AW, BCC or G-S don't sell it yet.


Nice setup indeed !

I am looking to possibly add another catleap also but just a quick question , how the impact on fsp When you run both monitor while gaming ?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> On mine (older model ) the buttons for volume are beside the brightness and on/off button/s and I don't have any speaker or input socket for sound, so it could be them.


I was thinking that they were volume adjusters as well. Kind of lazy of them to not remove them if the model does not include any speakers (mine don't either).


----------



## WALSRU

^ For the price I'm not surprised. Manufacture one frame, throw different guts in it. Profit!


----------



## supxm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voltaire2030*
> 
> Nice setup indeed !
> I am looking to possibly add another catleap also but just a quick question , how the impact on fsp When you run both monitor while gaming ?


Sorry, i can't answer you. the picture is not from me.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> got my 2 catleap 27" today. have 1 stuck bright green pixel on each screen, about the same area. doesn't bother me at all since i can only see it on a dark screen. no regrets selling the u3011 for these two beauties. never knew a monitor can look this nice without the antiglare bs. construction of the stand is cheap but idgaf. will probably get a monitor arm and put these on there.
> does anyone know any good methods of getting rid of two stuck bright green pixels?


it's from him. Apologize to "baldbrah"i don't quote his post ,now it's done


----------



## Newbie2009

mmm so these monitors are high rez monitors at half price of the dells etc? Just stumbled upon this thread.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Guys, I'm developing some problems with the display. So I don't think it's the GPU. I do think it's either the DVI cable that came with the monitor, the power brick, or the display itself. What happens is that I sit in Windows for some time, idling, and the display just kind of fades away. If I turn on/off the monitor or replug in the DVI cable, the display's alright again, but then fades away after sometime. I've tried both DVI ports on my GPU.


----------



## Onions

sounds like the monitor is going to sleep lol


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> sounds like the monitor is going to sleep lol


It's not. Like just then, I turned it back on, left it on for five seconds, and the display went out again. The backlighting is still there, but it's just a black screen.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *supxm*
> 
> Sorry, i can't answer you. the picture is not from me.
> it's from him. Apologize to "baldbrah"i don't quote his post ,now it's done


i haven't gamed on it yet. just loaded up diablo 3 and it looks gorgeous. i suspect gaming on two montiors will decrease the performance level but i dunno. dont really care to test and i run a gtx 670 and only play d3 and sc2. not the most graphic intense games.


----------



## londonfire93

So my second monitor arrived from initial overlook no dead or stuck pixels but the only thing I noticed is that one is brighter than the other or has different color saturation us there any way to fix or adjust this.


----------



## millicent

I've been a Catleap SE (DVI only) owner for about a week now. One of things that sold me was the claim that it had low to virtually no input lag. I did a fair amount of reading online before i bought the monitor and there are plenty of posts in this thread and others that explain why this monitor has low lag. Well I tried some shooters in the past week and it just didnt feel right so i ran some tests with my limited equipment. I setup the Catleap against another panel that i had in the house and this is what i got:



The Catleap was transitioning from 100-130ms while the Dell ST2410 (5ms response) was already at 130-150ms. Correct me if im wrong but this means that the Catleap is slower than the ST2410, which is already pretty laggy with an OSD, scaler and multiple inputs like HDMI/RGB. I'm not sure if this is due to the fact that there are just more pixels to process on the panel itself? Or maybe the quality of the electronics? I wish i had a DSLR camera with a fast shutter so i could capture this better. Im assuming you need a tube monitor + DSLR to measure the actual lag in ms.. if any of the owners here happen to have this equipment i urge you to please run a proper test so we can put the numbers up against similar monitors like the Crossover, Shimian or Apple Cinema.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> So my second monitor arrived from initial overlook no dead or stuck pixels but the only thing I noticed is that one is brighter than the other or has different color saturation us there any way to fix or adjust this.


You'll probably have to calibrate the other monitor so it looks like your other one.


----------



## londonfire93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> You'll probably have to calibrate the other monitor so it looks like your other one.


thanks for the reply do you think it might have anything to do with the dvi cables because im using one that came with the monitor and another from my old Samsung syncmaster, the reason why i think this is because there is a noticeable quality difference between the two cables.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> thanks for the reply do you think it might have anything to do with the dvi cables because im using one that came with the monitor and another from my old Samsung syncmaster, the reason why i think this is because there is a noticeable quality difference between the two cables.]


That is a pretty stark difference.

I wouldn't know though, but that's definitely a possibility.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *millicent*
> 
> I've been a Catleap SE (DVI only) owner for about a week now. One of things that sold me was the claim that it had low to virtually no input lag. I did a fair amount of reading online before i bought the monitor and there are plenty of posts in this thread and others that explain why this monitor has low lag. Well I tried some shooters in the past week and it just didnt feel right so i ran some tests with my limited equipment. I setup the Catleap against another panel that i had in the house and this is what i got:
> 
> The Catleap was transitioning from 100-130ms while the Dell ST2410 (5ms response) was already at 130-150ms. Correct me if im wrong but this means that the Catleap is slower than the ST2410, which is already pretty laggy with an OSD, scaler and multiple inputs like HDMI/RGB. I'm not sure if this is due to the fact that there are just more pixels to process on the panel itself? Or maybe the quality of the electronics? I wish i had a DSLR camera with a fast shutter so i could capture this better. Im assuming you need a tube monitor + DSLR to measure the actual lag in ms.. if any of the owners here happen to have this equipment i urge you to please run a proper test so we can put the numbers up against similar monitors like the Crossover, Shimian or Apple Cinema.


I have one up against Apple Cinema in the review.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> thanks for the reply do you think it might have anything to do with the dvi cables because im using one that came with the monitor and another from my old Samsung syncmaster, the reason why i think this is because there is a noticeable quality difference between the two cables.


Did you try to swap the cable to see?


----------



## epsilon748

Got my Catleap SE just a few days ago. Shipping from ebay seller Greensum was pretty fast- only about 3 business days. The monitor itself is gorgeous- no dead pixels, no uneven backlighting, and the "wobbly stand" I saw complaints about everywhere was not as bad as it was made out to be. Put up against my 23.6" Acer 120hz monitor, it's massive. I plan on buying two more in the near future to make a solid three Catleaps on my desk. After finally owning one, I can enthusiastically recommend them to anyone looking for an excellent but cheap high res IPS.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epsilon748*
> 
> Got my Catleap SE just a few days ago. Shipping from ebay seller Greensum was pretty fast- only about 3 business days. The monitor itself is gorgeous- no dead pixels, no uneven backlighting, and the "wobbly stand" I saw complaints about everywhere was not as bad as it was made out to be. Put up against my 23.6" Acer 120hz monitor, it's massive. I plan on buying two more in the near future to make a solid three Catleaps on my desk. After finally owning one, I can enthusiastically recommend them to anyone looking for an excellent but cheap high res IPS.


How would you compare the Catleap in gaming to the Acer. I have the 120hz Catleap 2B coming and I want to be sure I made the right choice.
How do the blacks in games compare and the response time?


----------



## londonfire93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I have one up against Apple Cinema in the review.
> Did you try to swap the cable to see?


I haven't tried swapping the cable out yet ill try when I get off work and I'll let you know how that goes.


----------



## epsilon748

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> How would you compare the Catleap in gaming to the Acer. I have the 120hz Catleap 2B coming and I want to be sure I made the right choice.
> How do the blacks in games compare and the response time?


I only bought the 120hz Acer (GD235HZ) for gaming with my 3D Vision setup. The blacks are deeper and the contrast/color reproduction on the Catleap is much better, since it's an IPS panel. I don't notice any more ghosting or lag on the Catleap than I do on the old monitor, so I'd say it's perfectly adequate. The extra screen real estate was more important to me for normal use. Don't count on the overclockable Catleap even comparing to a real 120hz in an apples to apples shootout though (when talking strictly refresh rates).


----------



## Vimm

So just to clarify. Its the same panel in both Q270 and the 2703? And no other difference except that the 2703 got another casing?


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *epsilon748*
> 
> ...Don't count on the overclockable Catleap even comparing to a real 120hz in an apples to apples shootout though (when talking strictly refresh rates).


What makes you say that sir? Is it the difference in technologies (S-IPS vs TN)?
Because my friend has your Acer 120hz monitor and I love it for the 120hz. I was hoping the 120hz Catleap would be better in every way.


----------



## WALSRU

All this talk about cables, I'm going to order a nice quality dvi-d with my build parts...


----------



## ToastyX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *millicent*
> 
> I've been a Catleap SE (DVI only) owner for about a week now. One of things that sold me was the claim that it had low to virtually no input lag. I did a fair amount of reading online before i bought the monitor and there are plenty of posts in this thread and others that explain why this monitor has low lag. Well I tried some shooters in the past week and it just didnt feel right so i ran some tests with my limited equipment. I setup the Catleap against another panel that i had in the house and this is what i got:
> 
> The Catleap was transitioning from 100-130ms while the Dell ST2410 (5ms response) was already at 130-150ms. Correct me if im wrong but this means that the Catleap is slower than the ST2410, which is already pretty laggy with an OSD, scaler and multiple inputs like HDMI/RGB. I'm not sure if this is due to the fact that there are just more pixels to process on the panel itself? Or maybe the quality of the electronics? I wish i had a DSLR camera with a fast shutter so i could capture this better. Im assuming you need a tube monitor + DSLR to measure the actual lag in ms.. if any of the owners here happen to have this equipment i urge you to please run a proper test so we can put the numbers up against similar monitors like the Crossover, Shimian or Apple Cinema.


Why does everyone keep using that crappy flatpanels.dk timer? It's no good. Don't use it. You can clearly see that the timer is not updating properly. There shouldn't be a 20-30 ms difference between frames. Using a faster shutter speed won't make a difference.

Cloning is also not guaranteed to be synchronized. You cloned the displays with no way to see where each monitor is refreshing, so there's no way to see the desynchronization, and with desktop composition enabled, the desynchronization may not be consistent. That's probably where the difference is coming from.

Use this program instead: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433 (Download link: http://goo.gl/DeUBm)

Disable desktop composition by setting the desktop theme to Basic or Classic (or disable desktop composition in the .exe properties) and mirror the displays as usual, then run the .exe file directly (not the .bat files) and maximize the window. That should show six columns with each column representing one frame. The program will synchronize with one of the monitors, and the other monitor will show a line of tearing if they're not perfectly synchronized. If there is tearing, wait for the line to drift off the screen, then take a picture. If the line of tearing does not move, you will have to add a custom resolution for one of the monitors with a slightly different refresh rate like 61 Hz, then try again.

That will give you an accurate picture of the true lag difference. I bet both monitors are nearly identical.

The ST2410 probably doesn't have any significant lag. Monitors lag because they buffer frames, not because they have an OSD/scaler/multiple inputs. For some reason, all of the current 2560x1600/1440p monitors with an OSD/scaler/multiple inputs buffer one frame, but that's not the case with most lower resolution monitors.

Most monitors lag within 2 ms of an exact number of frames, and both of those monitors should have 0 frames of lag.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> What makes you say that sir? Is it the difference in technologies (S-IPS vs TN)?
> Because my friend has your Acer 120hz monitor and I love it for the 120hz. I was hoping the 120hz Catleap would be better in every way.


When your looking into a 2560x1440 IPS panel.. you will get a sick feeling when ever u look at a 1920x1080i TN panel everytime.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> When your looking into a 2560x1440 IPS panel.. you will get a sick feeling when ever u look at a 1920x1080i TN panel everytime.


Well yeah definitely. But he said that comparing the two 120hz technologies is not like comparing apples to apples. I've used his Acer 120hz monitor and like it but I haven't tried a 120hz Catleap.
I'm curious to know what he meant.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> What makes you say that sir? Is it the difference in technologies (S-IPS vs TN)?
> Because my friend has your Acer 120hz monitor and I love it for the 120hz. I was hoping the 120hz Catleap would be better in every way.


It's not guaranteed you'll hit 120hz with the Catleap (most likely 100hz), and the slightly higher response time of the Catleap (due to IPS) means there will be slightly more blurring than on a 120hz TN.


----------



## djriful

More like ghosting.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> More like ghosting.


You think Ghosting is bad on your monitor? I know the response time is higher than 6ms. Realistically it's around 11 on average. But from what I've heard it's barely noticeable even in fast-paced FPS games.


----------



## elevatedpixels

Just wondered if anyone has invested in the "Unparalleled" Version that AW is selling?


----------



## Mkilbride

How many of you are getting dead pixels? I find none acceptable. Any more than none and I would be pissed.

Also, on this new 30'', can we has moar reviews?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

OK, I figured out the problem with the display acting weird. It was indeed the included DVI cable that was acting up. Fortunately, I ordered another DVI cable the day after I purchased this monitor, just in case this would happen.


----------



## londonfire93

ok so i tried using the cable that came with each monitor and i still seem to have a color difference. i also tried adjusting the settings in the nvidia control panel. any other ideas?


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elevatedpixels*
> 
> Just wondered if anyone has invested in the "Unparalleled" Version that AW is selling?


I think people here are getting sucked into a marketing black hole. All of the special A+ and other premium ratings are meant to separate money from your pocket to the seller. When you start paying >US $500 for these monitors, you are being sucked dry.

THIS IS MY VIEW.


----------



## Mkilbride

Ah yes, do these monitors feature a 1:1 mode, the 30 inch ones that is, for 16:9 content, so it is not stretched?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> You think Ghosting is bad on your monitor? I know the response time is higher than 6ms. Realistically it's around 11 on average. But from what I've heard it's barely noticeable even in fast-paced FPS games.


I've done test in my review, what you said it is exactly as your stated. The 6ms monitor is GtG but on regular use it is exactly the same as 12ms monitor or my ACD. But to be honest, my ACD lag input is better than my Crossover by a super tiny margin.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> I've done test in my review, what you said it is exactly as your stated. The 6ms monitor is GtG but on regular use it is exactly the same as 12ms monitor or my ACD. But to be honest, my ACD lag input is better than my Crossover by a super tiny margin.


I'm no expert but from what I've read that timer test you use whilst cloning the two displays to measure the input lag is not accurate. You also don't really review the monitor individually, but instead mostly compare it to the Apple display.
I'm not trying to criticize you but just point out a few things. I did like your review though and the pictures you took are great.


----------



## djriful

The reason of cloning the monitor is to output the same raw data to both screen and we should be able to see which screen is able to keep up and render.

If you test the screen out of sync because it is not mirrored. it won't work. It will be very hard to measure. I am not testing Hz or FPS at all. This is about the input lag.

It is like 2 race cars on a race track. Instead of having each car on it's own different race track.

The reason why I review with my ACD is to compare if this monitor is up par with $1000 monitor at a $300 price tag.


----------



## capt_zman

So if I were to buy one tonight, who would be the recommended seller? Greensum is estimated shipping from Jul 31 - Aug 13. The other sellers are estimating Jul 19 (somethingmiracle and jinyhaus).

Thanks


----------



## j0v1al

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> ok so i tried using the cable that came with each monitor and i still seem to have a color difference. i also tried adjusting the settings in the nvidia control panel. any other ideas?


I have the same issue, I believe it is intrinsic to the monitor rather then cables, etc. There is a noticeable difference in the different extremes of brightness, in that, when turning the brightness all the way down on both monitors side by side, one gets noticeably more dark than the other.

One of my monitors has a noticeable blue tint to the whites, which gives an overall blue hue/tint to everything. It's most noticeable since its contrasts tomy other monitor, which doesn't have a blue tint. If I viewed this monitor separately I'm not sure it would be as noticeable. I adjusted the color a bit with NVIDIA settings and looks a bit better by dropping the blue brightness and gamma. I've gotten used to it now, and doesn't bother me as much.


----------



## baldbrah

so currently my monitors can only support 59hertz. theres an option for 60 but for some reason every time i select it and apply the changes, it won't save. any ideas?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> so currently my monitors can only support 59hertz. theres an option for 60 but for some reason every time i select it and apply the changes, it won't save. any ideas?


Old-ish post, but could be of some use in terms of explanations:
http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1466098
It's from rounding down 59.94Hz refresh rate instead of up to 60.

Both of my monitors are the same with my hardware and Windows installations.

edit: Official Microsoft statement, saying "it's not a problem"
http://support.microsoft.com/kb/2006076


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *capt_zman*
> 
> So if I were to buy one tonight, who would be the recommended seller? Greensum is estimated shipping from Jul 31 - Aug 13. The other sellers are estimating Jul 19 (somethingmiracle and jinyhaus).
> Thanks


Read that
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/4250#post_17365692

or search thread with bigclothcraft and you will get a lot of talk about sellers. Im nervous about this too. I think im going with bigclothcraft based off of posts on here:thumb:


----------



## millicent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> Why does everyone keep using that crappy flatpanels.dk timer? It's no good. Don't use it. You can clearly see that the timer is not updating properly. There shouldn't be a 20-30 ms difference between frames. Using a faster shutter speed won't make a difference.
> Cloning is also not guaranteed to be synchronized. You cloned the displays with no way to see where each monitor is refreshing, so there's no way to see the desynchronization, and with desktop composition enabled, the desynchronization may not be consistent. That's probably where the difference is coming from.
> Use this program instead: http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1423433 (Download link: http://goo.gl/DeUBm)
> Disable desktop composition by setting the desktop theme to Basic or Classic (or disable desktop composition in the .exe properties) and mirror the displays as usual, then run the .exe file directly (not the .bat files) and maximize the window. That should show six columns with each column representing one frame. The program will synchronize with one of the monitors, and the other monitor will show a line of tearing if they're not perfectly synchronized. If there is tearing, wait for the line to drift off the screen, then take a picture. If the line of tearing does not move, you will have to add a custom resolution for one of the monitors with a slightly different refresh rate like 61 Hz, then try again.
> That will give you an accurate picture of the true lag difference. I bet both monitors are nearly identical.
> The ST2410 probably doesn't have any significant lag. Monitors lag because they buffer frames, not because they have an OSD/scaler/multiple inputs. For some reason, all of the current 2560x1600/1440p monitors with an OSD/scaler/multiple inputs buffer one frame, but that's not the case with most lower resolution monitors.
> Most monitors lag within 2 ms of an exact number of frames, and both of those monitors should have 0 frames of lag.


Here's a video i found that puts the DELL U3011 against the Yamakasi.



Thanks for your input and suggestions, and yeah i was also wondering why it skipped 20-30ms on the timer. I'm probably not going to run any more tests on my monitor 'cos either way i already bought it, but I just want the folks here to be aware that this may not be a good monitor for gaming. I'd still like to see some numbers from a controlled test done with the right equipment though, i think that would be very informative for prospective buyers.


----------



## djriful

This is why mirroring works and it can shows the delay vs another monitor easier despite someone told me it is not the way to test it for having it mirrored.

The Dell is faster than the Catleap.

Gah my ACD lag input is still faster than the Korea monitor. =(


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Well, it turns out that my GPU died today. Won't be able to play around with the monitor until I get a new card







.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Well, it turns out that my GPU died today. Won't be able to play around with the monitor until I get a new card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Your 670? That is very unfortunate.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *millicent*
> 
> Here's a video i found that puts the DELL U3011 against the Yamakasi.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input and suggestions, and yeah i was also wondering why it skipped 20-30ms on the timer. I'm probably not going to run any more tests on my monitor 'cos either way i already bought it, but I just want the folks here to be aware that this may not be a good monitor for gaming. I'd still like to see some numbers from a controlled test done with the right equipment though, i think that would be very informative for prospective buyers.


Dell looks better colors and response time stand out pretty big.

But for the price stand point the catleap is still a better buy.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Dell looks better colors and response time stand out pretty big.
> But for the price stand point the catleap is still a better buy.


It is if buyer can ignore the slight downside.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> Your 670? That is very unfortunate.


Yea, it's pretty bad. The card couldn't even OC that well so hopefully the new replacement will see better clocks and more stability.


----------



## djriful

Is your card an EVGA?


----------



## exhibitO

Green sum shipped my monitor 

So do I order a Dual DVI-D cable or I just use the one that comes with the shipment?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *djriful*
> 
> It is if buyer can ignore the slight downside.


I sold my u2711 and bought a catleap... with the money left over is enough to buy a GPU,


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Yea, it's pretty bad. The card couldn't even OC that well so hopefully the new replacement will see better clocks and more stability.


how did it die? my evga vanilla still hanging tough


----------



## cre8ive65

I'm very worried about getting one... Is it worth it to get a perfect pixel?


----------



## Snoops3d

Just got my catleap model/w speaker. I noticed 2 dead pixels but that was it







. I love the monitor but like so many others hate the stand. I just bought the planar 27 inch 2 weeks prior needless to say will probably be selling it to buy another leap!!. Definately need to replace the stand would like to go with a wall mount. Does anyone have any recomendations.

Also ordered from BCC, and I must say they were the best company I have ever ordered from. Heres why:

BCC emailed me to double check my shipping options, and made recommendations on how I should ship it and what to declare.

They did the quality check

And I ordered on july 3rd got it july 5th!!!!


----------



## cre8ive65

BCC is BigCLothCraft?


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> BCC is BigCLothCraft?


. Yep..sounds like one to order from. People are having good luck with him/her.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> I'm very worried about getting one... Is it worth it to get a perfect pixel?


. BCC will test before shipping so I don't see the point in getting one. That's just my two cents


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> . BCC will test before shipping so I don't see the point in getting one. That's just my two cents


Yes, and he says 5 are acceptable. With PP, you won't get any.

At 320$ though, I am so freaking tempted.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Yes, and he says 5 are acceptable. With PP, you won't get any.
> At 320$ though, I am so freaking tempted.


People just focus on pixels and forget that there are more important (read: noticeable) issues with these monitors that are possible, namely light bleed, uneven color, any number of other things that come up. One or two or ten stuck pixels will be so much less noticeable than those other issues. I know because I've experienced some negatives and even returned one of the three monitors I've purchased. I've had dead/stuck pixels with some, and I can't see them (except for one tiny one) at normal sitting distance, and when your monitor is otherwise perfect, you will just about never notice that stuck pixel (unless you feel the need to look for it every time). I honestly wouldn't worry about <5 dead/stuck pixels and make sure your seller checks for other visible defects and ensures proper operation / sends you a proper power brick. The monitor I returned was "perfect pixel" and had pretty serious unrelated issues.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WALSRU*
> 
> All this talk about cables, I'm going to order a nice quality dvi-d with my build parts...


Same I am ordering 3 10 ft dvi dual link cables from monoprice for 21 bucks and just be done with it.


----------



## JayXMonsta

hows somethingmiracle?


----------



## Vimm

Man this thread always bury my posts









Im gonna try to ask again. IS THERE the same panel in Yamakasi Catleap q270 and the 2703 LED? Namely S-IPS?
And what seller do you recommend?

Thanks


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Wow - leave the country for two weeks and return to over 700 new posts to wade through. Other than some bad advice here and there, and a nice argument over what is really the difference between A+ and A- panels, nothing really new!

My two cents on the pixel perfect. I now have 12 - PM if you REALLY want to know why - and to be honest you will never, ever, ever, ever, ever find 1-5 dead pixels on these screens if you aren't a moron and use the pixel check program from the OP. Seriously, 3.6 million pixels and you are going to see one? Doubtful. Don't waste your cash for the check and just don't do the check yourself - ignorance is truly bliss people when it comes to the Cats and pixels.

I didn't pay for a check on any one of mine and I have 7 perfects. The high is 2 on two monitors - the others have one. Mind you I would have NEVER seen these pixels and even now I know approximately where they are I don't notice them.

The only issue you have is bleed and they all have it. Paying for a check will not get you a Cat with perfect lighting or even less bleed - it is just a factor that you are paying $225 for a 27" monitor (shipping costs drive the price to $300+).

Lag issues and color testing - well ToastyX is the ONLY person I trust for advice. I noticed some people offering different ideas, but he have spent this year doing testing on these here and over at 120hz.net and his advice is spot on.

Sorry to those that PM'd me and I just now answered you - hopefully my responses aren't too late for you all.

Cheers as always!

Oh - and to all the new owners - COMPLETE THE SURVEY! Yes, there is an OP with answers (some people still refuse to check the first few posts on threads). Also, please keep this about the Catleaps - I noticed some people posting on other models. All models have their own club (although none as active as ours!







)


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> Man this thread always bury my posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im gonna try to ask again. IS THERE the same panel in Yamakasi Catleap q270 and the 2703 LED? Namely S-IPS?
> And what seller do you recommend?
> Thanks


I have not taken apart a 2703, but my gut says yes it is the same panel.


----------



## mistax

how much heat do these things produce just curious. as my old 2407dell is very hot.


----------



## The viking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> how much heat do these things produce just curious. as my old 2407dell is very hot.


I've only had mine for a few days now, but It doesnt produce any noticeable heat. I decided to not remove the plastic on the backside, and It hasn't melted yet, so I'm pretty satisfied









On the other hand - I am just amazed at how awesome this monitor is! WOW this was a steal.


----------



## jmarsiglio

So I need just any 100-220V power brick (I'm replacing the stock one)?


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> how much heat do these things produce just curious. as my old 2407dell is very hot.


These monitors are not hot as my ACD when it is at max brightness lol. Don't worry.


----------



## Netdiva

I just got mine and I'm very pleased. For those that are unsure as to whether it will work with a laptop, I can assure you it works. I connected mine to an alienware laptop using a USB powered mini display port to dvi-d adapter. As long as you make sure it supports the high resoluton, it will work. I was also able to test the monitor with a macbook pro laptop. I can't say enough about the monitor and the picture quality. The only problem is the wobbly stand but even then it's not as bad as I thought. I was looking at ebay and I see they now have a new model the Q271. It's a bit more expensive but seems to have all the negatives fixed from the Q270.

Good Luck to all.


----------



## SWIN

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> Man this thread always bury my posts
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im gonna try to ask again. IS THERE the same panel in Yamakasi Catleap q270 and the 2703 LED? Namely S-IPS?
> And what seller do you recommend?
> Thanks












Stand is very sturdy on this one.

Playing on-line games like CSS works very good.

Picture quality is really outstanding.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> how did it die? my evga vanilla still hanging tough


Bad chip probably. It didn't overclock that well at all, so I'm somewhat happy that I'll get a new one. Hopefully the new one will overclock better.


----------



## Snoops3d

So as I stated in my previous post I hate the stand on this. I found this on amazon for anyone interested

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

I ordered 2 of these mounts just now so I dont have any personal experience with these yet will let everyone konw when I get them


----------



## mistax

oh god. Ordered one =). My 2407 will be my secondary monitor not sure if i want potrait or landscape. =( i think i need to pugrade to a 7970/670gtx tho.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snoops3d*
> 
> So as I stated in my previous post I hate the stand on this. I found this on amazon for anyone interested
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003O1UYHG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
> I ordered 2 of these mounts just now so I dont have any personal experience with these yet will let everyone konw when I get them


Very similar to those I use on mine - they are linked in the OP.


----------



## CrispyBread

I'm about to mount my monitors with this: http://www.amazon.com/Mount-It-Articulating-Computer-Monitor-monitors/dp/B0052AWGLE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2HUJXE4RT1GG8&coliid=I1PCZAQNWWXH84

Anybody have any warning or tips not on OP's guide for stand removal?


----------



## Valgaur

Okay guys.....I need to have a person tell me just how much better this monitor is than my future setup of 3 of these for surround http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236175

or this??

(I want more than one monitor no matter what tho.......)

http://www.amazon.com/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-2560X1440-S-IPS-Monitor/dp/B008FUB3BM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Valgaur*
> 
> Okay guys.....I need to have a person tell me just how much better this monitor is than my future setup of 3 of these for surround http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236175
> or this??
> (I want more than one monitor no matter what tho.......)
> http://www.amazon.com/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-2560X1440-S-IPS-Monitor/dp/B008FUB3BM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8


One word... Catleap is ALOT better... not even in the same class..


----------



## exhibitO

Can't someone please help me with these two questions.

Do I need to pay customs fees or pay DHL when they deliver? I live in the USA and won't be around for the delivery. My neighbor will receive on my behalf. Is there still a payment involved?

Secondly, do I need to buy a DVI-D cable or is the one that comes with the monitor ok

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## londonfire93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can't someone please help me with these two questions.
> Do I need to pay customs fees or pay DHL when they deliver? I live in the USA and won't be around for the delivery. My neighbor will receive on my behalf. Is there still a payment involved?
> Secondly, do I need to buy a DVI-D cable or is the one that comes with the monitor ok
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


There is no taxes or customs fees when shipping it to the US.
A DVI-D cable comes with monitor but it is a cheap quality one so if you want to get a nicer one it wouldn't be a bad idea


----------



## Vimm

Alright. So here is some information I received about the Yamakasi 2703 from Green-Sum.


Spoiler: Long quote



Quote:


> Dear crozwow2012,
> 
> Hello. Thank you for your interest in our product.
> 
> Unfortunately, this model is not S-IPS panel one.
> 
> We would like to you recommend "New CROSSOVER 27Q LED 27" S-IPS Panel High QHD 2560x1440 DVI-D Computer Monitor",
> 
> if you need S-IPS panel monitor.
> 
> You can find the item at here.
> 
> xxx
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> - green-sum






So now we know!

But the fact remains that there are no LG 2560x1440 panels that are just IPS. Either S-IPS or H-IPS.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm


----------



## Hanoverfist

So what panel is in the q2703? I thought s-Ips is one of the cheaper panels? And that's one reason for the lower price of all these catleap? I see the description as Ips but that needs a ..h. or s. Or some other letter in front of it.


----------



## Vimm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> So what panel is in the q2703? I thought s-Ips is one of the cheaper panels? And that's one reason for the lower price of all these catleap? I see the description as Ips but that needs a ..h. or s. Or some other letter in front of it.


None knows I guess. But it seems the people over at 120hz knows since they deleted my discussion about the panel in the 2703 without giving me a reason.









But either way. There is only listing for S-IPS and H-IPS for LG panels at this resolution. But we'll know for sure once someone opens it up.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> None knows I guess. But it seems the people over at 120hz knows since they deleted my discussion about the panel in the 2703 without giving me a reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But either way. There is only listing for S-IPS and H-IPS for LG panels at this resolution. But we'll know for sure once someone opens it up.


You would think h-Ips would carry a much higher price tag? If I had to guess I would say its s


----------



## Vimm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> You would think h-Ips would carry a much higher price tag? If I had to guess I would say its s


I have no clue. But if you know this. H-IPS = Expensive S-IPS = Cheaper. Its probably so. Would be nice if someone could open it though.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can't someone please help me with these two questions.
> Do I need to pay customs fees or pay DHL when they deliver? I live in the USA and won't be around for the delivery. My neighbor will receive on my behalf. Is there still a payment involved?
> Secondly, do I need to buy a DVI-D cable or is the one that comes with the monitor ok
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> There is no taxes or customs fees when shipping it to the US.
> A DVI-D cable comes with monitor but it is a cheap quality one so if you want to get a nicer one it wouldn't be a bad idea
Click to expand...

Thanks, so I need a DVI - D male to male connection, correct?


----------



## cre8ive65

I feel like such an idiot, I just bought a single link DVI-D cable at best buy for...drumroll please... $60

Man i gotta stop going there!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> I feel like such an idiot, I just bought a single link DVI-D cable at best buy for...drumroll please... $60
> Man i gotta stop going there!


Ah never buy from worst buy lol.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> I feel like such an idiot, I just bought a single link DVI-D cable at best buy for...drumroll please... $60
> 
> Man i gotta stop going there!


You're can get one for new egg for $10 or amazon for alot cheaper
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mech0z

Any pools saying what chances are of getting a 120Hz capable model? Also if you get a 120Hz model can you then watch 3D on it?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cre8ive65*
> 
> I feel like such an idiot, I just bought a single link DVI-D cable at best buy for...drumroll please... $60
> Man i gotta stop going there!


http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks, so I need a DVI - D male to male connection, correct?


Yes


----------



## ashishnarang

hi all,
i have a desktop from 2008 that i use for office stuff, no gaming. i wanted to get this monitor because the price is so good.
but will it work-- or is my hardware too old?

ati radeon 4600 hd series
amd phenom quad core 9600 2.3ghz

would i need to upgrade the graphics card to take full advantage of this monitor? i don't understand this dual dvi stuff.
what would the cheapest upgrade be? my power supply isn't all that, it's a gateway desktop from 2008.
if i buy a new desktop, what to i need to look for in that, to be able to use this monitor out of the box?

again, not interested in gaming or 3d. just web, office stuff. do you think i really even will benefit from this monitor? or just go with a 23" 1080p capable. currently have an old 19" lcd monitor.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashishnarang*
> 
> hi all,
> i have a desktop from 2008 that i use for office stuff, no gaming. i wanted to get this monitor because the price is so good.
> but will it work-- or is my hardware too old?
> ati radeon 4600 hd series
> amd phenom quad core 9600 2.3ghz
> would i need to upgrade the graphics card to take full advantage of this monitor? i don't understand this dual dvi stuff.
> what would the cheapest upgrade be? my power supply isn't all that, it's a gateway desktop from 2008.
> if i buy a new desktop, what to i need to look for in that, to be able to use this monitor out of the box?
> again, not interested in gaming or 3d. just web, office stuff. do you think i really even will benefit from this monitor? or just go with a 23" 1080p capable. currently have an old 19" lcd monitor.


It should work fine. Just check your model specifications to be certain. The HD4xxx series often run (2) Dual DVI-I outputs, so you might even be able to run 2 of these monitors. Again, confirm your model card is capable.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashishnarang*
> 
> hi all,
> i have a desktop from 2008 that i use for office stuff, no gaming. i wanted to get this monitor because the price is so good.
> but will it work-- or is my hardware too old?
> ati radeon 4600 hd series
> amd phenom quad core 9600 2.3ghz
> would i need to upgrade the graphics card to take full advantage of this monitor? i don't understand this dual dvi stuff.
> what would the cheapest upgrade be? my power supply isn't all that, it's a gateway desktop from 2008.
> if i buy a new desktop, what to i need to look for in that, to be able to use this monitor out of the box?
> again, not interested in gaming or 3d. just web, office stuff. do you think i really even will benefit from this monitor? or just go with a 23" 1080p capable. currently have an old 19" lcd monitor.


I just looked at an old 4000 hd series card I have laying around and indeed it is 2 dual dvi outputs. It's a 4870. Take a look at the back of your machine where the monitor plugs in then then simply Google picture of dual dvi port.


----------



## An4rchyZ

Ive been using my catleap for 1 month now and its perfect oc'd to 120hz and pixel perfect.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> Ive been using my catleap for 1 month now and its perfect oc'd to 120hz and pixel perfect.


Nice who did you buy from?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## An4rchyZ

Bought it from bigclothcraft. It came with a dead adapter, but he quickly sent me a new one with no charge to me.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *An4rchyZ*
> 
> Bought it from bigclothcraft. It came with a dead adapter, but he quickly sent me a new one with no charge to me.


Is it the multi version?


----------



## ashishnarang

hi all, thanks for the replies.

so i have the 4600 series, i believe it is msi 4670:
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R4670-MD1G.html#?div=Specification





so on my ati 4600 series card, i have (1) vga port, (1) dvi-i, (1) hdmi

msi site:
Core/Memory

750MHz Core
1GB GDDR3 1600/1746MHz Memory

Video Output Function
Dual-link DVI x 1
D-Sub x 1
HDMI x 1
2560x1600 max

so looks like i should be set to go. please write if you guys think i will have a problem..
thanks all!
ash
Quote:


> Originally Posted by ashishnarang View Post
> 
> hi all,
> i have a desktop from 2008 that i use for office stuff, no gaming. i wanted to get this monitor because the price is so good.
> but will it work-- or is my hardware too old?
> ati radeon 4600 hd series
> amd phenom quad core 9600 2.3ghz
> would i need to upgrade the graphics card to take full advantage of this monitor? i don't understand this dual dvi stuff.
> what would the cheapest upgrade be? my power supply isn't all that, it's a gateway desktop from 2008.
> if i buy a new desktop, what to i need to look for in that, to be able to use this monitor out of the box?
> again, not interested in gaming or 3d. just web, office stuff. do you think i really even will benefit from this monitor? or just go with a 23" 1080p capable. currently have an old 19" lcd monitor.


----------



## doesericsleep

Hey all. Just got my catleap, I'm not totally sure how to tell which model I received but I think it's a 2G. Anyone know if this version is overclockable?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hanoverfist*
> 
> I just looked at an old 4000 hd series card I have laying around and indeed it is 2 dual dvi outputs. It's a 4870. Take a look at the back of your machine where the monitor plugs in then then simply Google picture of dual dvi port.


You can not tell if it is a dual DVI port by looking at the socket on the back of the card, the female socket nearly always look the same( digital pins)

but the cable (male plug) can look very different.



You have to look up the model of the card on the manufactures site, or look for a symbol beside the DVI socket.

DL-DVI



SL-DVI


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> None knows I guess. But it seems the people over at 120hz knows since they deleted my discussion about the panel in the 2703 without giving me a reason.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But either way. There is only listing for S-IPS and H-IPS for LG panels at this resolution. But we'll know for sure once someone opens it up.


Doubt they would have deleted it, try repost.


----------



## ashishnarang

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> You can not tell if it is a dual DVI port by looking at the socket on the back of the card, the female socket nearly always look the same( digital pins)
> 
> but the cable (male plug) can look very different.
> 
> 
> 
> You have to look up the model of the card on the manufactures site, or look for a symbol beside the DVI socket.
> 
> DL-DVI
> 
> 
> 
> SL-DVI


hi there,

i do have that funky signal next to my dvi and now know that my card is msi hd4670. mine looks exactly like your photo entitled "DL-DVI"
http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R4670-MD1G.html

but i think mine is dvi-i while the ebay listing mentions dvi-d and that is the cable they supply. i searched this thread and it seems the issue was brought up before, but please, i would like to make sure, will they supplied cable with the monitor work in my dvi-i on my card or i need some sort of adapter? thanks!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> Doubt they would have deleted it, try repost.


Ya we didn't he had post issues with cut and paste apparently.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doesericsleep*
> 
> Hey all. Just got my catleap, I'm not totally sure how to tell which model I received but I think it's a 2G. Anyone know if this version is overclockable?


Not to sound too flippant, but try to OC the thing that will tell you (and no you don't have an OC version they aren't available on eBay at the moment.)

The definitive answer on the Multi Limited that is being ADVERTISED as a 120hz capable monitor is this ---

It CAN be set to 120hz, it will show that it is at 120hz, but it drops every other frame so it only displays 60hz. If you set it at another rate, it will still drop the proper number of frames to only display 60hz.

I am posting this again so people remain warned about this.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashishnarang*
> 
> hi there,
> i do have that funky signal next to my dvi and now know that my card is msi hd4670. mine looks exactly like your photo entitled "DL-DVI"
> http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R4670-MD1G.html
> but i think mine is dvi-i while the ebay listing mentions dvi-d and that is the cable they supply. i searched this thread and it seems the issue was brought up before, but please, i would like to make sure, will they supplied cable with the monitor work in my dvi-i on my card or i need some sort of adapter? thanks!


You should be fine, the DL-DVI-I carry an analog signal as well (the 4 pins out on there own).


----------



## Dman780

I just bought the new Catleap Q271 (Pixel Perfect) model from AW. Worried as hell.....I was supposed to buy 2 dell U2412M's....aaahhhh how did I end up buying this?

Has anyone bought this model yet?


----------



## Dman780

I hope this monitor works with the lenovo W250 laptop Dock.....it has all the ports....dual dvi, display, hdmi. Otherwise I'm going to have to build a Desktop.....


----------



## H8ff0000

I'm having a problem. I overclocked my Catleap's refresh rate with CRU to 67. It was working fine for awhile. I think at least a week, not sure. Then all of a sudden the picture strangely faded off. Now I get no picture, just black. The backlighting comes on and all, just no picture. It's not the cable, it's not the PC. I asked for the original CRU settings for the monitor on here and quakermaas posted them for me:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*


I set this in CRU (to the correct monitor of course) and then restarted the PC. Didn't help. Occasionally I can get it to go on for a second or two but it does some sort of blocky looking fadeaway and goes back to blank. Can someone double-check those settings quakermaas posted, or even better, if anyone has any advice on how I can get this monitor working properly again, I'd greatly appreciate it.

Edit: Oh and btw, the power light on the bottom right-hand corner of the monitor is solid green during this.

Edit: And now it's doing the green blinking light issue, for the first time, even though I've been messing with this for days. Eh, I'm gonna try to find another cable, since I'm currently using the one that came with it.


----------



## ToastyX

The proper way to reset a monitor with CRU is to delete the monitor and reboot. The settings you posted are correct though, so it might not help. You can safely delete every monitor just to be sure. Connected monitors will be detected on boot.

Does the monitor show a picture in the BIOS or during boot? If not, something is wrong with the monitor or power supply. Try unplugging the monitor's power for a minute and try again. The settings in CRU don't take effect until after the Windows boot animation, so you should be able to see that at least.


----------



## Brandonx1

I'm thinking about buying this monitor. I'm concerned about monitor noise. Does the monitor make any sound at all? Any buzz, whines or whatever? I will not over clock the monitor at all? What about on a all white screen? Thanks in advance everyone.


----------



## londonfire93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonx1*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying this monitor. I'm concerned about monitor noise. Does the monitor make any sound at all? Any buzz, whines or whatever? I will not over clock the monitor at all? What about on a all white screen? Thanks in advance everyone.


i have two of these monitor one i have had for a month and another for a few days and neither of them make any noises at all no"buzz, whines or whatever" at all. you will be very happy with your purchase


----------



## shadcrkd

Just ordered a white one from dreamseller. Hopefully it ships soon. Is a squaretrade warranty worth it? $50 for a 3-year warranty doesn't seem so bad if Squaretrade actually covers this item.


----------



## Snoops3d

Hello Everyone

Ive had my catleap for about 1 week now, and 2 weeks prior I purchased the standard 27 inch (planar monitor), needless to say Im thinking about selling the planar and getting a 2nd catleap. Does anyone know how well a nvidia gtx 260 would handle 2 catleaps, right now Im using one 8800gt and its definately feeling the strain. Also my current 8800gt has 512 megs of ram. and the gtx 260 has 896 megs. I would like to run games here and there but thats not critical what is criitcal, is photoshop, and 3d studio max, as I use these on a profesional basis.

Thanks so much for any help!!!


----------



## Vimm

Now I'm hearing from some friends since my studies abroad to South Korea. They are saying the Yamakasi 2703 has a S-IPS panel. And another seller (BCC) said "Ofcourse it has!". Just FYI.


----------



## H8ff0000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ToastyX*
> 
> The proper way to reset a monitor with CRU is to delete the monitor and reboot. The settings you posted are correct though, so it might not help. You can safely delete every monitor just to be sure. Connected monitors will be detected on boot.
> Does the monitor show a picture in the BIOS or during boot? If not, something is wrong with the monitor or power supply. Try unplugging the monitor's power for a minute and try again. The settings in CRU don't take effect until after the Windows boot animation, so you should be able to see that at least.


I just tried what you said about deleting it from CRU. Restarted and it showed the mobo startup routine fine. Showed the Windows starting up splash. I logged in, but not too long after being on the desktop, it did a slow (couple seconds) fadeout. I'm thinking it might be the cable. I think I'll go ahead and purchase this one:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2688&seq=1&format=2


----------



## cscottm

Hi Everyone, I ordered the Q270 SE last week & hope to get it either Monday or Tuesday. I am currently running a 2 monitor setup (2 - 24" at 1920x1080).

A couple of questions. Anybody having any issues running a multiple monitor setup where both screens have different resolution? and For the folks who were running multiple monitor setup before using this monitor, are you still constantly using a multiple monitor setup, or because the resolution is higher, you are mainly using the 27" and leaving the other monitor powered down.

Thanks


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashishnarang*
> 
> hi there,
> i do have that funky signal next to my dvi and now know that my card is msi hd4670. mine looks exactly like your photo entitled "DL-DVI"
> http://www.msi.com/product/vga/R4670-MD1G.html
> but i think mine is dvi-i while the ebay listing mentions dvi-d and that is the cable they supply. i searched this thread and it seems the issue was brought up before, but please, i would like to make sure, *will they supplied cable with the monitor work in my dvi-i* on my card or i need some sort of adapter? thanks!


YES, it will work.

DVI-I supplies both DVI-D and an analog signal. You can choose to use either one with the appropriate cable and connector. That is how the DVI to VGA signal is supplied to VGA monitors


----------



## shadman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonx1*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying this monitor. I'm concerned about monitor noise. Does the monitor make any sound at all? Any buzz, whines or whatever? I will not over clock the monitor at all? What about on a all white screen? Thanks in advance everyone.


Have heard nothing from mine, except when I accidentally shorted it.







back to normal now though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shadcrkd*
> 
> Just ordered a white one from dreamseller. Hopefully it ships soon. Is a squaretrade warranty worth it? $50 for a 3-year warranty doesn't seem so bad if Squaretrade actually covers this item.


I'm pretty sure it is covered, but I didn't purchase it myself. $16.66 A year to make sure it works is pretty good though.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Snoops3d*
> 
> Hello Everyone
> 
> Ive had my catleap for about 1 week now, and 2 weeks prior I purchased the standard 27 inch (planar monitor), needless to say Im thinking about selling the planar and getting a 2nd catleap. Does anyone know how well a nvidia gtx 260 would handle 2 catleaps, right now Im using one 8800gt and its definately feeling the strain. Also my current 8800gt has 512 megs of ram. and the gtx 260 has 896 megs. I would like to run games here and there but thats not critical what is criitcal, is photoshop, and 3d studio max, as I use these on a profesional basis.
> 
> Thanks so much for any help!!!


As long as the card has two dual link DVI Ports, yes it will work. Gaming will be tough though. Even if you're running the game on just one monitor, it requires a tad bit more work to display all the pixels on the other monitor.
You'll see a difference from the larger memory at this resolution, but you should probably upgrade lol. A used 460 1gb goes for almost $100 now


----------



## iammclovin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vimm*
> 
> Now I'm hearing from some friends since my studies abroad to South Korea. They are saying the Yamakasi 2703 has a S-IPS panel. And another seller (BCC) said "Ofcourse it has!". Just FYI.


Interesting how the box on the 2703 says S-IPS, yet some of the 2703 eBay ads will partially say IPS, and then say S-IPS.

I contacted Bigclothcraft and he said that the 2703 is IPS, and the Q270 is S-IPS. When I search online to see if there is such thing as a difference between IPS and S-IPS, results only show for S-IPS vs H-IPS. Is there even such thing as a IPS that isn't S-IPS/H-IPS?


----------



## LC155

...

Just zoom in and take pictures of the pixel structure if you want to debate what panel you have.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammclovin*
> 
> Interesting how the box on the 2703 says S-IPS, yet some of the 2703 eBay ads will partially say IPS, and then say S-IPS.
> I contacted Bigclothcraft and he said that the 2703 is IPS, and the Q270 is S-IPS. When I search online to see if there is such thing as a difference between IPS and S-IPS, results only show for S-IPS vs H-IPS. Is there even such thing as a IPS that isn't S-IPS/H-IPS?


"IPS" is a general category term for all subtypes of IPS monitors (S-IPS, H-IPS, etc.)


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammclovin*
> 
> Interesting how the box on the 2703 says S-IPS, yet some of the 2703 eBay ads will partially say IPS, and then say S-IPS.
> I contacted Bigclothcraft and he said that the 2703 is IPS, and the Q270 is S-IPS. When I search online to see if there is such thing as a difference between IPS and S-IPS, results only show for S-IPS vs H-IPS. Is there even such thing as a IPS that isn't S-IPS/H-IPS?


And this entire time, I thought all the Catleaps had the same panel...


----------



## michabsolute

I bought two monitors from Accessorieswhole last week and it arrived today.
I got a discounted price for making payment directly on paypal.
and it was very fair deal for me.

I'm so surprised to receive it so fast.
as others mentioned, their service is above 5 star.

Yamakasi monitor in perfect mint condition.
and I absolutely love it.


----------



## WALSRU

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> One word... Catleap is ALOT better... not even in the same class..


Just caught this one. I had 3 of those vs for surround. DON'T DO IT. The viewing angles are absolutely awful on these. If you try to do portrait mode (which I prefer) one or two of your monitors will wash out BADLY due to the vertical angle. That and the quality really isn't better than a budget Acer monitor.

P.S. The reason I bought them was due to a $100 open box deal. Still regretted it. Especially because support on surround is real hit and miss. Often game-breakingly so.


----------



## Onions

so orderd mine last week shipped out this morning im excited. I hope it turns out well because if it does ill be grabing one for my gf and 2 more for myself, over time


----------



## bicrazor

Just got mine delivered on Friday (from bigclothcraft), have a 7850 and it's running great









I had a cheap AOC 20" monitor so the size of this thing will take some getting used to, maybe a bigger desk is in order.

Went for a SE pixel perfect one as was only $40 extra, the big plastic silver curved thing on the back of it was hanging off it but the rest of the case and more importantly the screen was in good condition.

There is some backlight bleeding from the bottom right of the screen but it's only noticeable on a solid black screen or when the contrast is at its highest setting.

So far I'm more than happy, been played Diablo 3, BF3 & Skyrim, all with a mix of high/ultra settings and getting more than playable frame rates.

Just hope it lasts now! Would deffo recommend one of these to anyone considering getting one


----------



## Dman780

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michabsolute*
> 
> I bought two monitors from Accessorieswhole last week and it arrived today.
> I got a discounted price for making payment directly on paypal.
> and it was very fair deal for me.
> I'm so surprised to receive it so fast.
> as others mentioned, their service is above 5 star.
> Yamakasi monitor in perfect mint condition.
> and I absolutely love it.


I bought the CATLEAP Q271 from him yesterday. It has been shipped ! The Fedex Delivery date is scheduled for 19th. I'm excited







and scared







at the same time


----------



## WALSRU

Small update:

Yamakasi Leonidas 300 arrived today at my parent's house. Only got to play with it for 15 minutes on my lunch break, but the colors and contrast are quite good in a dark room. Haven't gamed on it yet, due to my current living situation I won't be able to get quality time with it until tomorrow. So far my first impression is good, yeah it was more expensive than the 27" but the vertical real estate is amazing!


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CrispyBread*
> 
> I'm about to mount my monitors with this: http://www.amazon.com/Mount-It-Articulating-Computer-Monitor-monitors/dp/B0052AWGLE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2HUJXE4RT1GG8&coliid=I1PCZAQNWWXH84
> Anybody have any warning or tips not on OP's guide for stand removal?


Be patient and take lots of care. Otherwise, it's not that difficult.


----------



## cscottm

Ok I just recieved my Q270 SE & it was shipped with just the box it came in only (no "protection" box) & it had $278 listed as the value for customs. I have set it up & compared to the 24" I was using before, this thing is huge. In regards to the stand, the monitor is a little wobbly, but not too bad. I had ordered from GreenSum & it was shipped Thursday night & arrived Monday morning.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cscottm*
> 
> Ok I just recieved my Q270 SE & it was shipped with just the box it came in only *(no "protection" box)* & it had $278 listed as the value for customs. I have set it up & compared to the 24" I was using before, this thing is huge. In regards to the stand, the monitor is a little wobbly, but not too bad. I had ordered from GreenSum & it was shipped Thursday night & arrived Monday morning.


I haven't seen them come in a second box since the very first/early orders, usually just come wrapped with thin foam packaging or bubble wrap.


----------



## nzube14

Does this regular stand work with these monitors? Has anyone tried?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nzube14*
> 
> Does this regular stand work with these monitors? Has anyone tried?


Yes it works - it's been discussed a number of times. It won't be easy to adjust once it's set, so if you expect on-the-fly adjustment, it won't do that. I'm also not sure if heavier tempered glass models will be too much for this stand, as they are over the weight limit indicated for this stand. Non-glass monitors should be okay.


----------



## Brandonx1

I
'm just about the pull the trigger on one of these monitors. I have one computer with a 5770 and one with a 7750. Will they work? Both have dual link dvi outs. I want to use a dual link dvi KVM with this set up. Will I be able to see the bios of my asus p6t motherboard with the 5770 video card and the cat leap?


----------



## exhibitO

I'm very angry. My catleap was shipped with no protective box and I was also sent the wrong version. I ordered from green sum. He sent me Q270 I ordered the Q270se.

I plugged into wall, light is flashing green it won't come on. The monitor is broken?

Or it won't come on without signal?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> I'm very angry. My catleap was shipped with no protective box and I was also sent the wrong version. I ordered from green sum. He sent me Q270 I ordered the Q270se.
> I plugged into wall, light is flashing green it won't come on. The monitor is broken?
> Or it won't come on without signal?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Take a deep breath before you get angry at nothing! 2 posts in 7 minutes...

What do you mean by "protective box"? Vast majority of these monitors is shipped in their factory boxes and they arrive undamaged, frequently with the boxes unscathed. The boxes are very sturdy and protect the monitors quite well.

It won't work without an input signal.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> I'm very angry. My catleap was shipped with no protective box and I was also sent the wrong version. I ordered from green sum. He sent me Q270 I ordered the Q270se.
> I plugged into wall, light is flashing green it won't come on. The monitor is broken?
> Or it won't come on without signal?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


I haven't seen them come with a PROTECTIVE BOX since the first few many months ago...usually only bubble wrap now.

Are you using the Dual Link DVI cable that came with the monitor ? Have you it plugged into the DL-DVI socket on a graphic card that supports DL-DVI ?

Fill in your computer details in profile, so we can get an idea of what we are dealing with.


----------



## exhibitO

If I hold the power button some white lines flash on the screen and disappear

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## exhibitO

My build isn't ready yet. I just wanted to make sure the monitor comes on. It's not plugged into anything. Just power.

So I can't even get it to turn on without a signal?

I held the power button and some lines showed up briefly on the screen, I'm worried

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ElevenEleven

It has no internal control board. It requires an input from a graphics card or an equivalent to operate. This is Korean LG-panel IPS-monitor 101, if you've read any of the info. Sorry to be blunt, but you've read a little to make the purchase and did not even bother reading about what you are buying, and then get angry when your expectations don't meet reality.


----------



## exhibitO

Thanks you. It was a secondary problem. The light on monitor flashes green, it won't stay solid color and when I hold power button it flashes some weird lines on the screen

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ElevenEleven

^ It requires an input to operate... (to get the solid green color). You will see some of those odd lines and other artifacts until you get a solid input in Windows and what not, such as while booting through the BIOS.


----------



## exhibitO

I apologize to the board for the way of came off. I'm still fuming I was sent the wrong version of the monitor

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## cscottm

No foam or padding whatsoever was on the outside of the box. It pretty much came as if I went to the store & picked it up myself.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I haven't seen them come in a second box since the very first/early orders, usually just come wrapped with thin foam packaging or bubble wrap.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cscottm*
> 
> No foam or padding whatsoever was on the outside of the box. It pretty much came as if I went to the store & picked it up myself.


This is normal. The boxes are so strong, and internal padding is sufficient, that most sellers don't bother adding anything extra. I've received 3 monitors, and none of the boxes were damaged, even those that came with zero bubble wrap over them.


----------



## Hokies83

Meh just snagged 25 of these from BBB for 250$ each... gonna see if i can sell them Local for 400$ each @[email protected]


----------



## ElevenEleven

o.o You probably can sell them for close to that, but wow... that's a lot of money in one lump to take such a risk!


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Meh just snagged 25 of these from BBB for 250$ each... gonna see if i can sell them Local for 400$ each @[email protected]


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> o.o You probably can sell them for close to that, but wow... that's a lot of money in one lump to take such a risk!


I have my own 500 sq store. ill just use one as a demo and play 4k videos on repeat and when people see it as they walk in should sell itsself..


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I have my own 500 sq store. ill just use one as a demo and play 4k videos on repeat and when people see it as they walk in should sell itsself..


That's a good strategy. You should be ready for a lot of unsatisfied customers for whatever random reasons (dead power brick, dead pixels, artifacts when booting, lack of inputs, who knows what else... dealing with people is always a "treat" when money comes into play).


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> That's a good strategy. You should be ready for a lot of unsatisfied customers for whatever random reasons (dead power brick, dead pixels, artifacts when booting, lack of inputs, who knows what else... dealing with people is always a "treat" when money comes into play).


Already talked to BBB about that ima test them when they gethere any with issues i will send back on him.


----------



## Mkilbride

Question for anyone who has these,

Does it have 1:1 scaling?

i.e, it can scale without the use of graphics card?

So if I use my PS3 on it, it'll display it's resolutions correctly, 16:9? and not be warped, or something?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

If you are talking about the multi version with the HDMI port then yes I believe they scale but if you go with the normal version and use a HDMI>DVI convertor then it will not scale.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> I apologize to the board for the way of came off. I'm still fuming I was sent the wrong version of the monitor
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


I still get confused by Catleap nomenclature sometimes, SE is without speakers? So you wanted without speakers and got one with speakers? Those speakers aren't really worth using anyway, and some sellers charge extra for speaker models, at least for ShiMians. Unless they consume those extra 10 watts even without use or produce an annoying sound, I'd probably ignore their existence.


----------



## Mkilbride

Argh. I want to order one! I've given in!

But!

Paypal!

Why, oh why, Paypal? Not Google Payments or Amazon Payments...?!

I can't USE Paypal! They limited me for no reason and want a freaking passport to remove it, despite the fact I live in the USA! Getting a passport involves some pain in the ass work and MONEY! All that so I can use Paypal?!

Argh!


----------



## ElevenEleven

Wait, what? Why can't you use PayPal? I actually like using PayPal's Bill Me Later for this sort of thing - $5 off $100, and you get to wait out the whole transaction before paying back, in case something goes wrong... I was able to buy a monitor, return it, and wait for a refund (back to BML) without using a dime of real money - was pretty convenient.


----------



## Mkilbride

Because Paypal sucks and limited me for absolutely no reason and even though I sent them photo copies of my ID and all that junk and confirmed my address ,it's still limited.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Because Paypal sucks and limited me for absolutely no reason and even though I sent them photo copies of my ID and all that junk and confirmed my address ,it's still limited.


They have a customer service number - I'd call them and talk to them to see what could be done. I've done it before, for another reason - they weren't too bad to get ahold of.


----------



## Mkilbride

Well now I see this pay as a guest feature and hope I can use my debit that way -

I am very annoyed that PayPal took my debit hostage and won't let me unregister it.

*
Still, to say if I was to buy one of these,*

From whom, and which model, would be the best? Lowest input lag, best quality, ect, all that...I've heard BCC, but which model,. and what is the difference between the SE and on SE model? ANd what are these new 2703 models and 2710 models...so much confusion!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Well now I see this pay as a guest feature and hope I can use my debit that way -
> I am very annoyed that PayPal took my debit hostage and won't let me unregister it.
> *
> Still, to say if I was to buy one of these,*
> From whom, and which model, would be the best? Lowest input lag, best quality, ect, all that...I've heard BCC, but which model,. and what is the difference between the SE and on SE model? ANd what are these new 2703 models and 2710 models...so much confusion!


Check via paypal credit card payment no need to sign into your account.


----------



## Mkilbride

Yeah, going to try, just saw that option.

Like I said though, concerned which model?

I saw about 5-6 variants...


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Yeah, going to try, just saw that option.
> Like I said though, concerned which model?
> I saw about 5-6 variants...


See Post #1 in this thread for descriptions of 5 models. One of the more recent ones has an updated lower (and sturdier, though dull looking) stand.


----------



## Mkilbride

Yes, I'm still trying to think on some matters.

Dual DVI to HDMI would still support only 1920 x 1200 sadly. With this, I'd lose my 2560 x 1440 abilities...that is, if I want my A/V Receiver to be able to display it's OSD. It seems HDMI is limited to 1920 x 1080 / 1920 x 1200 or so. This was made as a limit for some dumb reason. I guess I can go without my OSD.

Also, on the matter of scaler vs no scaler. Say I plug my PS3 into it, and this monitor is 16:9, so it'd display 1080p 16:9 ,right? Scaler, or not? I hear removing the scaler, less input lag?

Hm hmm.

*Post #1 does not tell you the difference, merely what connections they have. There are several different versions...but I guess if they're all the same.

Also trying to decide if I want to pay the near 200$ extra premium for 120hz.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Yes, I'm still trying to think on some matters.
> Dual DVI to HDMI would still support only 1920 x 1200 sadly. With this, I'd lose my 2560 x 1440 abilities...that is, if I want my A/V Receiver to be able to display it's OSD. It seems HDMI is limited to 1920 x 1080 / 1920 x 1200 or so. This was made as a limit for some dumb reason. I guess I can go without my OSD.
> Also, on the matter of scaler vs no scaler. Say I plug my PS3 into it, and this monitor is 16:9, so it'd display 1080p 16:9 ,right? Scaler, or not? I hear removing the scaler, less input lag?
> Hm hmm.
> **Post #1 does not tell you the difference, merely what connections they have*. There are several different versions...but I guess if they're all the same.
> Also trying to decide if I want to pay the near 200$ extra premium for 120hz.


 From the OP

5 models to choose from, you can get it in white now as well, but I think I seen somebody post that there is no Multi version in white yet.


----------



## Mkilbride

Yes, but those describe non gloss vs glass, ect, that's it.

These other ones are different models and it hasn't been updated in some time.


----------



## Brandonx1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonx1*
> 
> I
> 'm just about the pull the trigger on one of these monitors. I have one computer with a 5770 and one with a 7750. Will they work? Both have dual link dvi outs. I want to use a dual link dvi KVM with this set up. Will I be able to see the bios of my asus p6t motherboard with the 5770 video card and the cat leap?


My post got lost in the shuffle. Anyone know about the above questions? Thanks so much guys


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonx1*
> 
> My post got lost in the shuffle. Anyone know about the above questions? Thanks so much guys


Check with the manufacturer's website for the EXACT specifications for those DVI ports... even though it shows Dual-Link DVI, the board in that card may not actually support it. What exactly are the brands /model or SKU number of those cards?


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonx1*
> 
> My post got lost in the shuffle. Anyone know about the above questions? Thanks so much guys


Both should work if they support 1440p resolution (or higher) and have dual-link DVI. You can always see the BIOS when you enter it, though in some cases not when it just flashes by during boot. One exception being if you have a very quickly booting board, such as ASRock Extreme4, by the time my monitor got enough time to turn on, my computer was already about to start booting into Windows. At worst, you can just hold "Delete" during boot, even with a black screen, and you'll see the BIOS when it loads.


----------



## Mkilbride

So I've read around and this supports 720p max with a PS3? That's really disappointing...cause like, PS3 games aren't low resolution enough, amiiright?

I mean the few titles that ARE 1080p will be even lower? argh


----------



## plum

No it'll support 1080p, just have to set your ps3 for 1080p input in the settings, and if the game supprots 1080p, so will the monitor


----------



## trav2020

Looking to purchase a couple of these. However, i'm not sold that the increased resolution will be noticeable. I tried to find those calculators that figure out at what distance does an increased resolution make a difference, but could only find them geared towards home theater.

Question: Do you have to sit very close (less than 2 or 3) feet to see the difference against a 1080p display? Or are the differences note-able at ~3 feet viewing distances.


----------



## Dman780

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dman780*
> 
> I bought the CATLEAP Q271 from him yesterday. It has been shipped ! The Fedex Delivery date is scheduled for 19th. I'm excited
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and scared
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> at the same time


Wow, what is is this Overnight shipping? The monitor is on a FedEx delivery truck already....


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trav2020*
> 
> Looking to purchase a couple of these. However, i'm not sold that the increased resolution will be noticeable. I tried to find those calculators that figure out at what distance does an increased resolution make a difference, but could only find them geared towards home theater.
> Question: Do you have to sit very close (less than 2 or 3) feet to see the difference against a 1080p display? Or are the differences note-able at ~3 feet viewing distances.


You'll notice the difference when everything is smaller on the 1440p vs 1080p.


----------



## DeadMedic

Ordered from Green-sum. Marked as shipped yesterday and got DHL tracking # but it doesn't appear to be moving. DHL says "No result found for your DHL query. Please try again"

Anyone who ordered from Green-sum, how long did your shipping take to US?


----------



## shadcrkd

I got a tracking number at 6AM (so 7PM korea time) for DHL. still doesn't work yet. Ordered from dreamseller.


----------



## trav2020

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> You'll notice the difference when everything is smaller on the 1440p vs 1080p.


Thats the next area i'm afraid of.. Will i need to sit 6 inches away just so i can read text?? I'm not a gamer just a programmer that enjoys fine hardware.


----------



## WALSRU

Another small Leonidas update:

Colors are good, contrast is good though black levels are average or below. For example, caves in skyrim without a torch lit can be difficult to distinguish the finer textures of the walls at a distance. Also (possibly) due to the anti-glare coating blacks wash out at extreme angles. Not a big problem really, absolutely love the size of this thing!


----------



## curlyp

I apologize in advance if the question has already been asked. Where is the best place for me to purchase Yamakasi Cat Leap Q270 b series (to overclock) monitor?

Thanks,

CP


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trav2020*
> 
> Thats the next area i'm afraid of.. Will i need to sit 6 inches away just so i can read text?? I'm not a gamer just a programmer that enjoys fine hardware.


I can read on it at 2 /3 feet from my eyes no problems, I ware glasses and I am 43









You can fit a lot more on the screen because of the higher resolution over 1080p.

Had mine about two months now and going back to 1080p would be a nightmare


----------



## centex99

so I think I'm going to go with the catleap over the achieva or crossover... but which one is better and why between the Q270 SE and the 2703?


----------



## DeadMedic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> I apologize in advance if the question has already been asked. Where is the best place for me to purchase Yamakasi Cat Leap Q270 b series (to overclock) monitor?
> Thanks,
> CP


ATM there are no guarantees. It's hit or miss. There is one seller on eBay right now that guarantees a 2b selling @ ~ $550.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeadMedic*
> 
> ATM there are no guarantees. It's hit or miss. There is one seller on eBay right now that guarantees a 2b selling @ ~ $550.


You mean the "multi overclock Edition"? If so that is not really a 120hz monitor. It will say it's running at 60hz+ but it skips all of the extra frames. So it's really a 60hz monitor.


----------



## xuancool

The 2703 looks better. But why is there only tempered glass version? I hope they can produce new model without glass but with a AG layer.


----------



## Hanoverfist

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xuancool*
> 
> The 2703 looks better. But why is there only tempered glass version? I hope they can produce new model without glass but with a AG layer.


. Im with you on that. Bezel looks way better..take the glass out and you have a winner.


----------



## TranquilTempest

Is it possible to get a 2c model and the overclockable PCB separately?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TranquilTempest*
> 
> Is it possible to get a 2c model and the overclockable PCB separately?


Not that I know of... the 2B PCB boards may or may not be available seperately for install later... word in the grapevine is that it may not be available till next year...


----------



## cscottm

I have a Q270 & a 24" ViewSonic (1920x1080) & I can see the difference. Looking at a picture, I can definatly tell there a difference.

To compare with MS Excel, on 24", I can see Row A - AC & Column 1 - 43 (at font size 11)

On the Q270, I can see Row A - AM, & column 1 - 59

This is just opening Excel 2010, at the default settings
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trav2020*
> 
> Looking to purchase a couple of these. However, i'm not sold that the increased resolution will be noticeable. I tried to find those calculators that figure out at what distance does an increased resolution make a difference, but could only find them geared towards home theater.
> Question: Do you have to sit very close (less than 2 or 3) feet to see the difference against a 1080p display? Or are the differences note-able at ~3 feet viewing distances.


----------



## tkgw

New member here, hi guys. I jumped the boat a couple of days ago, orderinq the recently introduced Q271 monitor from green-sum. It hasn't arrived yet. The main reasons of choosing it for me were its height of 468 mm vs Q270's 505 mm, which is important for me, and the ability to connect different devices to the same display (i.e. my current Windows-based PC and Mac-mini that I plan to get in the future). However, after giving it a more detailed research, I'm starting to become paranoid of the increased input lag which multi-input displays are said to have. I'm a casual gamer playing all kind of games including mmo's and online fps. It seems like I've never had any issues with controls delay neither with my current Benq FP91GP display, nor with my PS3 connected to Toshiba Regza 42" LCD. Can anybody gaming on a Yamakasi multi share his opinions on display behaviour in games please.


----------



## Mkilbride

Boom.

Why is the HDMI version 130$ more?

I need a HDMI version...cause you know, I wanna play my PS3 on it...and I'd hook up my A/V Receiver to it, ect.

I just wish there was HDMI to Dual DVI that supported 2560 x 1440. Damn it!

There's no way I can see to get this to work with my receiver, the output that is, I have it the HDMI to the input of course, but if I want my OSD to display, as well as my PS3, it requires DVI. Plus I hear the HDMI version has more input lag, so frustrating...

So basically, this would be non-usable with my PS3...which is a good reason I wanted one, on top of a new PC monitor.


----------



## james888

So I decided I am going to get one of these. Now I just need to figure out which one I want. They all seem exactly the same to me. The only differences being speakers, glass, inputs, and build quality. I don't care about how the monitors build looks, as long as the picture looks good. Why would I go with a shimian over a catleap, or even a crossover? Only because it has a better stand. Glass or no glass? Are the ones that are guaranteed no dead pixels for $60 more worth it? Sorry if I don't feel like reading 620 pages


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Boom.
> Why is the HDMI version 130$ more?
> I need a HDMI version...cause you know, I wanna play my PS3 on it...and I'd hook up my A/V Receiver to it, ect.
> I just wish there was HDMI to Dual DVI that supported 2560 x 1440. Damn it!
> There's no way I can see to get this to work with my receiver, the output that is, I have it the HDMI to the input of course, but if I want my OSD to display, as well as my PS3, it requires DVI. Plus I hear the HDMI version has more input lag, so frustrating...
> So basically, this would be non-usable with my PS3...which is a good reason I wanted one, on top of a new PC monitor.


You know about these, right ?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1257538/microcenter-now-carrying-the-27-2560x1440-korean-ips-monitors/0_30


----------



## Mkilbride

Still an 80$ premium. It's out of stock as well.

And more inputs creates noticable input lag, I've read.

Frustrating. I wish there was an HDMI only version.

HDMI 1.3 supports 2560 x 1440 according to all technical specifications.

Yet no monitor offers that resolution via HDMI, they are all internally limited. Done on purpose, for no reason I can discern.

So annoying.


----------



## shadcrkd

Hooray, it's moving out of Korea. Maybe it'll get here tomorrow. Still have an old GTX560 but it'll have to do until I get a deal on a 7950.


----------



## foilfence

From your experience, how long does it take for the ebay sellers to give you the tracking number?

He posted the ebay feedback just minutes after I paid (that was 7 hours ago), but up to now I still haven't gotten any tracking info.


----------



## tkgw

Green-sum have supplied me with tracking number next morning korean time. They also sent me an english manual in pdf format.


----------



## foilfence

Thanks for the info man. I'll check again in a few hours then.


----------



## futr_vision

Ok. So I have my Catleaps and I notice that I get a hum from my Logitech speakers. The intensity of the hum appears to change depending on which webpage I am on. If a page has sound and it is muted these appear to be the pages that intensify the hum. Is this all due to the power supplies? Is there a good solution?


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> Ok. So I have my Catleaps and I notice that I get a hum from my Logitech speakers. The intensity of the hum appears to change depending on which webpage I am on. If a page has sound and it is muted these appear to be the pages that intensify the hum. Is this all due to the power supplies? Is there a good solution?


umm, unplug power supply and see if hum is still there? troubleshooting 101. and why would you even suspect its the monitor that's causing the hum to your speakers?


----------



## futr_vision

I suspect it had to do with the monitor's power supply because the hum wasn't there before I got them. Nothing has changed other than the monitors. When I unplug the monitor the hum goes away.


----------



## futr_vision

I should have tried this befor posting but it sounds like plugging the monitor into my UPS fixes the issue. Now where do I plug the other monitors? This UPS can only handle so much.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> I should have tried this befor posting but it sounds like plugging the monitor into my UPS fixes the issue. Now where do I plug the other monitors? This UPS can only handle so much.


Get another UPS


----------



## Onions

mine came but i missed it td will eb up tn and take soem pics for you all.... also note dhl is terrible..







never will i ship with them again so unprofessional.. hel teh guy that i picked it up from asked if i wanted to buy some illegal substinces while i was there ;(


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> I should have tried this befor posting but it sounds like plugging the monitor into my UPS fixes the issue. Now where do I plug the other monitors? This UPS can only handle so much.


notsureifsrs.

Run an extension from another outlet? get a bigger UPS? live with the hum? get another UPS?


----------



## MauveCloud

I'm thinking about buying a Catleap in a few months. I have some consoles to hook up, so I'm leaning toward the multi-input model. PS3 and X360 I can presumably just use the HDMI input, but I've got some older consoles that only support up to component (namely, my GameCube and Wii) or even just composite (my SNES and N64). Can someone recommend some converters that are known to work with the Catleap?


----------



## Scannall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MauveCloud*
> 
> I'm thinking about buying a Catleap in a few months. I have some consoles to hook up, so I'm leaning toward the multi-input model. PS3 and X360 I can presumably just use the HDMI input, but I've got some older consoles that only support up to component (namely, my GameCube and Wii) or even just composite (my SNES and N64). Can someone recommend some converters that are known to work with the Catleap?


If you are hooking up a bunch of consoles wouldn't something like this be a better choice?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889112063


----------



## MauveCloud

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scannall*
> 
> If you are hooking up a bunch of consoles wouldn't something like this be a better choice?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16889112063


I guess I forgot to mention I'd be using the Catleap as my computer monitor as well. I currently have a Sceptre E320BV-FHDD, but I'm interested in the Catleap for the higher PC resolution without the high price of a Dell U2711, and I'd prefer not to deal with more than one screen on my desk.


----------



## tkgw

Bumping my question - can any owners of the multi-input displays comment on how seriously does the increased input lag (that multi models are supposed to have) affect the gaming, if it does at all. Is it really that noticeable? I'm talking about gaming on PC here.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Boom.
> Why is the HDMI version 130$ more?
> I need a HDMI version...cause you know, I wanna play my PS3 on it...and I'd hook up my A/V Receiver to it, ect.
> I just wish there was HDMI to Dual DVI that supported 2560 x 1440. Damn it!
> There's no way I can see to get this to work with my receiver, the output that is, I have it the HDMI to the input of course, but if I want my OSD to display, as well as my PS3, it requires DVI. Plus I hear the HDMI version has more input lag, so frustrating...
> So basically, this would be non-usable with my PS3...which is a good reason I wanted one, on top of a new PC monitor.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Still an 80$ premium. It's out of stock as well.
> And more inputs creates noticable input lag, I've read.
> Frustrating. I wish there was an HDMI only version.
> HDMI 1.3 supports 2560 x 1440 according to all technical specifications.
> Yet no monitor offers that resolution via HDMI, they are all internally limited. Done on purpose, for no reason I can discern.
> So annoying.


It is confirmed that the catleaps support hdmi 1.4 which means you can run 1440p over the hdmi port also I can plug my laptop into a basic catleap if I get a hdmi 1.4 to dual link dvi cable because my laptop supports hdmi 1.4







so in theory a hdmi only one is very possible and all you would need is a computer with a hdmi 1.4 port and a hdmi 1.4 to dual link dvi cable







also the multi is only $80 more


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> Bumping my question - can any owners of the multi-input displays comment on how seriously does the increased input lag (that multi models are supposed to have) affect the gaming, if it does at all. Is it really that noticeable? I'm talking about gaming on PC here.


I played gears of war 3 on xbox 360 on multi version, and I cannot feel any lag. The only downside is 1080p upscales to 1440p makes the graph a little bit blur.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> Bumping my question - can any owners of the multi-input displays comment on how seriously does the increased input lag (that multi models are supposed to have) affect the gaming, if it does at all. Is it really that noticeable? I'm talking about gaming on PC here.


hopefully I will be ordering my 3 monitors this week 2 se 1 multi and i will posts tests and stuff with them running side by side


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> I played gears of war 3 on xbox 360 on multi version, and I cannot feel any lag. The only downside is 1080p upscales to 1440p makes the graph a little bit blur.


try setting ur xbox to 720p it may fix that issue


----------



## iammclovin

For the Yamakasi Catleap *2703*, does anyone know if these panels have a higher amount of dead pixels?

I noticed both of bigclothcraft's ads for the 2703 say it can have up to 15 (fifteen) dead pixels.

That seems unusually high...

Can any *2703* owners chime in on who they purchased from, and how many (if any) dead pixels found?

Thanks in advance!


----------



## tkgw

Thanks for your replies guys! Can't wait for my new monitor to arrive. I'm no way a pro gamer, so I guess everything will be fine.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammclovin*
> 
> For the Yamakasi Catleap *2703*, does anyone know if these panels have a higher amount of dead pixels?
> I noticed both of bigclothcraft's ads for the 2703 say it can have up to 15 (fifteen) dead pixels.
> That seems unusually high...
> Can any *2703* owners chime in on who they purchased from, and how many (if any) dead pixels found?
> Thanks in advance!


wow, up to 15 dead pixels is way to much, it was up to 5 before and his other monitors are still listed at up to 5 dead pixels.

I have sent him a question asking is it a typing error.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iammclovin*
> 
> For the Yamakasi Catleap *2703*, does anyone know if these panels have a higher amount of dead pixels?
> I noticed both of bigclothcraft's ads for the 2703 say it can have up to 15 (fifteen) dead pixels.
> That seems unusually high...
> Can any *2703* owners chime in on who they purchased from, and how many (if any) dead pixels found?
> Thanks in advance!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> wow, up to 15 dead pixels is way to much, it was up to 5 before and his other monitors are still listed at up to 5 dead pixels.
> I have sent him a question asking is it a typing error.


This is why I bought my monitor some time ago. I feared that with the worldwide raving about these, they might start to sell lower grade panels to meet demand. Either that or prices might rise, or both.


----------



## WALSRU

FINALLY I got to upload pics of the new monitor. Like we said a few pages back I don't think anyone here bought the 30" Yamakasi Leonidas 300 (2560x1600) so I wanted to share for anyone on the fence. Don't mind the set up, this is the table we built my brother's computer on recently. I'm slightly homeless atm but I'm rebuilding my rig with insurance money and this monitor was the first purchase to replace an eyefinity set up. I highly recommend going for these super resolutions over multi-monitor, but I digress...


Spoiler: HUGE IMAGES





































































All in all I'm very happy with it, a quick list of pros and cons.

Pros :
- Tons of real estate, personally I love the height of 16:10
- Accurate color, duh it's an IPS
- No noticeable ghosting or input lag
- Very classy metal finish
- Solid tilt, swivel, height-adjustable stand
- AG coating kills glare and reflections
- Much cheaper than 30" competitors
- No dead pixels or dust

Cons:
- AG Coating blurs some dark blacks together
- Overall black levels (dungeons with realistic lighting mod) average or below average
- Darker scenes suffer from poor viewing angles
- Slight buzzing on backlight, not a problem for headphone users or gamers
- Dang heavy

Feel free to ask any questions. Overall this thing would be pretty much perfect if it came in glossy. I would recommend this thing to most gamers or photo editors. The exception being if you play games like Skyrim and have blackout lighting mods or horror style games where you spend a lot of time in the dark. Even then I didn't find navigating dark dungeons any more than a minor annoyance. For your majority of games (I plan on using it primarily for Guild Wars 2) it will not be an issue.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> This is why I bought my monitor some time ago. I feared that with the worldwide raving about these, they might start to sell lower grade panels to meet demand. Either that or prices might rise, or both.


I been watching the prices slowly creep up, but then they go on special, I definitely wouldn't being buying a Korean ips if the possible dead pixel count could be up to 15 dead pixels


----------



## Flylowradr

Hello from Korea!









I found this thread while searching for information on a monitor I found locally in a pc parts shop. After speaking very little with the salesman he plugged the monitor in and all I could say was WOW!!! They were asking 254,000 KRW which at todays exchange rate comes down to $222 USD. I heckled a bit and ended up talking him down to a flat $200.







I ordered one on the spot and get to pick it up tomorrow, I'm really excited. Its a glass verison with speakers if you were wondering but never the less I'll report back with pictures.


----------



## futr_vision

The hum is back. The instensity changes depending on the web page I am on. To me that indicates that the power draw is fluctuating. It probably doesn't have anything to do with whether or not a website is utilizing sound but instead the color intensity of the webpage. The more intense the color the more power it draws. The larger the power draw the more pronounced the hum in the speakers. Everything is plugged into the UPS so the only piece of the puzzle that is questionable to me is the actual monitor power supply. I'm not an electrical engineer so I don't know if this is the case for sure but it is my best guess. Anyone else have any ideas? Could be something with the monitor or maybe the mount causing issues?


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> The hum is back. The instensity changes depending on the web page I am on. To me that indicates that the power draw is fluctuating. It probably doesn't have anything to do with whether or not a website is utilizing sound but instead the color intensity of the webpage. The more intense the color the more power it draws. The larger the power draw the more pronounced the hum in the speakers. Everything is plugged into the UPS so the only piece of the puzzle that is questionable to me is the actual monitor power supply. I'm not an electrical engineer so I don't know if this is the case for sure but it is my best guess. Anyone else have any ideas? Could be something with the monitor or maybe the mount causing issues?


In order of things I would try:

New power cable,
Try plugging it into a different socket/power strip/UPS
Try a different DVI cable
Try a different adapter
Open the monitor up and take a look inside at the mounts and grounding screws etc...
Ask for a replacement


----------



## centex99

Does anyone with both the B model and a newer model catleap? I'm curious to see the boards which I believe are the same circuit board. If we could figure out what components are different, we could create an "upgrade" kit for likely cheap (~$20 I'd guess).


----------



## futr_vision

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> In order of things I would try:
> New power cable,
> Try plugging it into a different socket/power strip/UPS
> Try a different DVI cable
> Try a different adapter
> Open the monitor up and take a look inside at the mounts and grounding screws etc...
> Ask for a replacement


1. I've gone from a powerstrip to a UPS with little or no change
2. I have switched from the included DVI cable to one from
3. Haven't tried this yet. I have to get one with the correct connector
4. I've opened the monitors and everything seems fine.


----------



## azuredragon

Can people who have dead pixels post some pictures of it? I don't have much experience with dead pixels so I don't know if its noticeable or not. My catleap is on a plane rite now and hopefully it'll come by tomorrow and I'm worrying too much to wait for it to come lol.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centex99*
> 
> Does anyone with both the B model and a newer model catleap? I'm curious to see the boards which I believe are the same circuit board. If we could figure out what components are different, we could create an "upgrade" kit for likely cheap (~$20 I'd guess).


LOL

They have been trying to sort that out on the other site (Google search for a site with yamakasi 120Hz)

Not as easy as you think, boards are very different and the connectors as well, also will not be cheap (most likely around $125 to $ 150 )

But you are very welcome to try














Think there is pictures of the PCB's in the OP of this thread of the OC version and non-overclock version, if not, then on the other site. (120Hz)


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azuredragon*
> 
> Can people who have dead pixels post some pictures of it? I don't have much experience with dead pixels so I don't know if its noticeable or not. My catleap is on a plane rite now and hopefully it'll come by tomorrow and I'm worrying too much to wait for it to come lol.


In most cases there to small to see with a cam.


----------



## centex99

Thanks for that info... yeah, that's a big difference in boards... guess the question will be, what can we buy these boards for in a group buy scenario... I didn't want to spend the extra $200+ now for waiting for a 120hz, so I ordered the regular 270se... but if the price was right ($100 or so) I'd possible swap out the boards...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> LOL
> They have been trying to sort that out on the other site (Google search for a site with yamakasi 120Hz)
> 
> Not as easy as you think, boards are very different and the connectors as well, also will not be cheap (most likely around $125 to $ 150 )
> 
> But you are very welcome to try
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think there is pictures of the PCB's in the OP of this thread of the OC version and non-overclock version, if not, then on the other site. (120Hz)


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centex99*
> 
> Does anyone with both the B model and a newer model catleap? I'm curious to see the boards which I believe are the same circuit board. If we could figure out what components are different, we could create an "upgrade" kit for likely cheap (~$20 I'd guess).


No one reads the OP - sigh.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azuredragon*
> 
> Can people who have dead pixels post some pictures of it? I don't have much experience with dead pixels so I don't know if its noticeable or not. My catleap is on a plane rite now and hopefully it'll come by tomorrow and I'm worrying too much to wait for it to come lol.


Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> In most cases there to small to see with a cam.


Exactly. And as I have suggested time and again - don't go looking for defects! I have not read a single post from someone who said - "love the monitor, but I noticed the dead pixel in the lower right corner while reading OCN articles." Could it happen? Sure. But 1-5 dead out of 3.6 million? Tough to find if you don't hunt for them. My mantra on the dead pixel deal - Ignorance is bliss!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *centex99*
> 
> Thanks for that info... yeah, that's a big difference in boards... guess the question will be, what can we buy these boards for in a group buy scenario... I didn't want to spend the extra $200+ now for waiting for a 120hz, so I ordered the regular 270se... but if the price was right ($100 or so) I'd possible swap out the boards...


And that is only the difference between 2Bs and 2Cs - you should see the current PCBs. I cannot speak about a group buy scenario since that could get this thread closed down. Actually, I am forbidden from discussing the PCBs at all.


----------



## Qu1ckset

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> No one reads the OP - sigh.
> 
> Exactly. And as I have suggested time and again - don't go looking for defects! I have not read a single post from someone who said - "love the monitor, but I noticed the dead pixel in the lower right corner while reading OCN articles." Could it happen? Sure. But 1-5 dead out of 3.6 million? Tough to find if you don't hunt for them. My mantra on the dead pixel deal - Ignorance is bliss!


My I ask why you can't talk about group buys, you not aloud to run group buys on ocn?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qu1ckset*
> 
> My I ask why you can't talk about group buys, you not aloud to run group buys on ocn?


Msg a mod PioneerSound is a fair minded Mod to ask.


----------



## tombom

No, one of the threads earlier got shut down when they tried to do a group buy. However, 120hz.net is selling the overclocked version of these monitors with limited stock for ~550 bucks or so.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Group buys are not allowed on OCN
The reasoning behind not allowing them is due to the fact that group buys usually involve quite large sums of money and management are not willing to take the chance of something going wrong and people losing out.
We allowed one last year (the GT2150 fans) and that started a year ago and is still ongoing.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Group buys are not allowed on OCN
> The reasoning behind not allowing them is due to the fact that group buys usually involve quite large sums of money and management are not willing to take the chance of something going wrong and people losing out.
> We allowed one last year (the GT2150 fans) and that started a year ago and is still ongoing.


Don't let one ruin the benefit for all!


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Don't worry we didn't just have have one problem group buy and decide we weren't going to allow them, we have never allowed them as management don't want to take the chance of people losing out.
We (OCN) actually arranged that group buy after a member came up with the idea and started the ball rolling, the same as the monitor group buy but for some reason it never happened. Either the manufacturer/seller or members involved didn't want OCN management involved.
Here is Chipp's post in that thread
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chipp*
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> This thread seems to be hovering somewhere between a group buy and an attempt to unofficially sell items through an independent webstore , neither of which are allowed in the forums for various reasons.
> 
> In the interest of keeping everyone informed, now that we're aware of this discussion, we're currently making an effort to get in touch with the manufacturer for one of two possible scenarios which would allow sale of these monitors through the forums.
> 1) The seller joins the Vendor Partner program
> 2) We explore a hardware partner relationship much like we have with Ducky for mechanical keyboards
> 
> Barring either of those being worked out, unfortunately, we won't be able to allow further discussion of purchasing these monitors in this fashion on the forums.
> 
> There are several questions to be answered (in the interest of making sure members don't get burned) before we would allow either of those, and these are also things we'd encourage you to be thinking about if you explore buying regardless of whether or not a purchase program is implemented officially with OCN. Is there a warranty? Who handles warranty work? Who pays for it? How are dead pixels handled? Are these items drop-shipped, or are timelines dependent on large freight shipments? We're not trying to imply that any of these might be problems - but, they are the kind of things we'll certainly be taking into account before offering any kind of official relationship to sell these monitors here (branded or not).
> 
> Please stay tuned for further information - once we've established communication with the various representatives giving information thats been posted here, we'll let you know the results of our discussions.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Question. Can I use Lucid Virtu with the Catleap monitor (I have a non-multi input version)? Don't you have to plug the DVI cable into the integrated graphics card slot to get it working?


----------



## FishHeadswg

Any reason why the Catleap thread has so many more replies than the Shimian one?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Any reason why the Catleap thread has so many more replies than the Shimian one?


Because people who can't read and have a different monitor keep coming in here to post about it. So we have to direct them to a different thread.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Any reason why the Catleap thread has so many more replies than the Shimian one?


CatLeap is also by far the most popular of the Korean panels..


----------



## joeh1974

Can anyone comment how well these work in portrait mode? I thought that I read a post a few pages back that colors were washed out when turned 90 degrees. Also, does anyone know if dual GTX 460s would support Nvidia's equivalent of Eyefinity? Thanks.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> Can anyone comment how well these work in portrait mode? I thought that I read a post a few pages back that colors were washed out when turned 90 degrees. Also, does anyone know if dual GTX 460s would support Nvidia's equivalent of Eyefinity? Thanks.


From what ive seen of people using it works fine.

The washed color post was about a guy with a cheapo asus panel who wanted to know what was better 3 of those cheapo asus or one of these.

And btw welcome to OCN!


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> From what ive seen of people using it works fine.
> The washed color post was about a guy with a cheapo asus panel who wanted to know what was better 3 of those cheapo asus or one of these.
> And btw welcome to OCN!


TYVM for the welcome.









Do you have any knowledge how well two GTX 460s would run three of these?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> TYVM for the welcome.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you have any knowledge how well two GTX 460s would run three of these?


Doing what?

Gaming id think they would struggle i have a gtx 670 FTW overclocked and im not getting 60 fps in all games myself =/. And that is just with one catleap..

Web surfing and general use would be fine tho id say..

But heck if ur willing to buy 3 of these panels you should grab 2 gtx 670s to go with them lol


----------



## shadcrkd

Got my white catleap today. Looks nice, though the part which mounts to the stand feels really cheap. Only have a GTX560, which can barely handle Diablo on medium, but my 7950 will come in tomorrow.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Question. Can I use Lucid Virtu with the Catleap monitor (I have a non-multi input version)? Don't you have to plug the DVI cable into the integrated graphics card slot to get it working?


No, you do not need to run your monitor off the integrated GPU to use Virtu. You need to have your iGPU enabled, with up-to-date HD graphics driver, and with Virtu installed. Virtu is just software that uses the resources of iGPU to assist your discrete GPU.
----
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Any reason why the Catleap thread has so many more replies than the Shimian one?


Catleaps are still the most popular, in my opinion, because people don't read all main threads about all the different monitors--hundreds of pages in each--and just read/hear selective information, such as "Oh Catleaps can overclock to 120Hz" and then come here looking for one. This, by extension, makes it a more popular monitor in reputation, which drives the popularity feedback loop. There's nothing remarkable about the current Catleaps vs. other brands/makes - it's all about personal aesthetics choice. Same thing with CrossOver - people hear about the metal bezel and run to buy CrossOvers, thinking it means better quality - which is not the case, there have been plenty of issues with them in comparison to, say, Achieva ShiMians. I'll add PCBank to the reputation feedback craze - one single review said that PCBanks have lower input lag and higher contrast, and they became very popular. Then their popularity died down with time, because there have been no confirmations of this superiority, and the appearance of PCBanks is very bland (plus various issues).

*TLDR: Make your own informed decision by reading all of the introductory information posts in the Korean monitor club threads as well as a lot of feedback in replies.*


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I bought them (and still do) simply due to the looks of the bezel and now my comfort level with them. As has been said plenty of times - these are all the same panels and guts (more or less) so it only comes down to looks. I preferred the Cat's bezel over all the others.


----------



## elevatedpixels

Hey Guys, I have received one of the Q270SE's in the post. I was wondering is the Gigabyte 6870OC Version Compatible? I tired to plug it all in, and I am getting a flashing green. I haven't popped in another dual link dvi cable yet (supplied one was pants), but was mainly wondering about my graphics card compatibility. I am in the UK. I have looked through the OP's troubleshooting.

can anyone shed any light on this?


----------



## LC155

At least, from what I'm seeing, the Achieva seem to have the 'better' build quality thus far. From what I've seen of the crossover thread, it's been awash with problems lately, yet the Shimian thread has been relatively quiet.

If only basing your decision on that, it's probably best to stick with the Shimian for now


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elevatedpixels*
> 
> Hey Guys, I have received one of the Q270SE's in the post. I was wondering is the Gigabyte 6870OC Version Compatible? I tired to plug it all in, and I am getting a flashing green. I haven't popped in another dual link dvi cable yet (supplied one was pants), but was mainly wondering about my graphics card compatibility. I am in the UK. I have looked through the OP's troubleshooting.
> can anyone shed any light on this?


Is this the only monitor you have plugged in? (reboot with your Cat being the only display plugged in). Are you plugging it into the dual-link DVI port #1 on your GPU (if there are more than one)? Check all the connections, make sure they are secure. And finally, if this wasn't obvious, you need to actually have your computer on for the display to receive any signal and work.


----------



## elevatedpixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Is this the only monitor you have plugged in? (reboot with your Cat being the only display plugged in). Are you plugging it into the dual-link DVI port #1 on your GPU (if there are more than one)? Check all the connections, make sure they are secure. And finally, if this wasn't obvious, you need to actually have your computer on for the display to receive any signal and work.


Ya it is the only monitor plugged, I took my other monitor out just a precaution anyway. The computer is on but it is on the log in screen.

I've got the monitor plugged into a power surge adapter supplied by bcc. I connected the power supply to a different one too!

I only have the one GV-6870OC GPU.

Do you think I need a new Power Supply and DVI-D Cable?


----------



## ElevenEleven

What do you mean by the "log in screen"?

According to the card description, there's 1 DVI-I and 1 DVI-D, both dual-link. Try swapping your DVI cable to the other port.

You only need a new power supply brick if there's something wrong with yours. Is yours overheating or not having a steady green light on?


----------



## elevatedpixels

The Windows Log in screen where you enter you're password.

When I plug it in. I have a flashing green light... then when I hold down the power button for less than a second I get a solid red.

I have tried both ports. I don't think it's overheating. how will I know if it is?


----------



## ElevenEleven

It will feel extremely hot









Flashing green light means your monitor's not getting an input signal, I believe. Try logging into Windows and displaying something different, like your desktop background. It takes a few seconds for a monitor to turn on and start displaying information after powering it on. Some things make it temporarily black out, more noticeable than monitors with internal PCBs, not controlled by graphics card - for example BIOS load can go entirely without anything displayed, until you get to the windows loading screen (that's only with some cards and drivers).

P.S.: at worst, your issue could be the same as this guy had:
http://www.overclock.net/forums/posts/by_user/id/292931

Not sure what came of it in the end.

P.P.S.: try all the troubleshooting steps with both of your existing Dual-link DVI cables - just in case. Make sure your monitor's power brick is plugged into a good socket with steady current.


----------



## elevatedpixels

I still am not getting anything. =( Not really a nightmare yet. I just have to invest in maybe a new power brick (Should I invest in one just in case?) and definitely a new Dual Link dvi cable.

I need some sleep. I'll post up news on whats happening tomorrow afternoon. I have a feeling it might work.


----------



## ivoryg37

Seller shipped mine yesterday and I got it today. Bigclothcraft +1, can't believe it overnighted from overseas. Unfortunately I can't create custom profiles for some reason. Oh well it still works great


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Don't worry we didn't just have have one problem group buy and decide we weren't going to allow them, we have never allowed them as management don't want to take the chance of people losing out.
> We (OCN) actually arranged that group buy after a member came up with the idea and started the ball rolling, the same as the monitor group buy but for some reason it never happened. Either the manufacturer/seller or members involved didn't want OCN management involved.
> Here is Chipp's post in that thread


ok... So Chip failed? lol

I had to do days of research/reading to find out that the Overclockable aka "2b" version of the Catleap is still available. You could probably save members of this forum that come here looking for the best... alot of time and energy by just letting people know that these still exist! Just can't tell them why,who,where,when or how.


----------



## elevatedpixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> It will feel extremely hot
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Flashing green light means your monitor's not getting an input signal, I believe. Try logging into Windows and displaying something different, like your desktop background. It takes a few seconds for a monitor to turn on and start displaying information after powering it on. Some things make it temporarily black out, more noticeable than monitors with internal PCBs, not controlled by graphics card - for example BIOS load can go entirely without anything displayed, until you get to the windows loading screen (that's only with some cards and drivers).
> P.S.: at worst, your issue could be the same as this guy had:
> http://www.overclock.net/forums/posts/by_user/id/292931
> Not sure what came of it in the end.
> P.P.S.: try all the troubleshooting steps with both of your existing Dual-link DVI cables - just in case. Make sure your monitor's power brick is plugged into a good socket with steady current.


Thanks Eleven. This is weird I just saw my monitor flash for a milisecond. Then went black again. This gives me a whole lot of hope. I think it definitely might be the dvi cable. hmmm.. oh the drama!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> ok... So Chip failed? lol
> I had to do days of research/reading to find out that the Overclockable aka "2b" version of the Catleap is still available. You could probably save members of this forum that come here looking for the best... alot of time and energy by just letting people know that these still exist! Just can't tell them why,who,where,when or how.


They should make all catleaps that model and not be chargeing a prem for them heh.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> They should make all catleaps that model and not be chargeing a prem for them heh.


I agree! Unfortunately, reality works much different. In my utopia everyone would have the exact same opportunities as anyone else from birth to death.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> No, you do not need to run your monitor off the integrated GPU to use Virtu. You need to have your iGPU enabled, with up-to-date HD graphics driver, and with Virtu installed. Virtu is just software that uses the resources of iGPU to assist your discrete GPU


Awesome. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elevatedpixels*
> 
> I still am not getting anything. =( Not really a nightmare yet. I just have to invest in maybe a new power brick (Should I invest in one just in case?) and definitely a new Dual Link dvi cable.
> 
> I need some sleep. I'll post up news on whats happening tomorrow afternoon. I have a feeling it might work.


Who did you purchase from?

When you hold down power button do you get some weird white lines on the screen?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## elevatedpixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Who did you purchase from?
> When you hold down power button do you get some weird white lines on the screen?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Sometimes yeah. Why do you?


----------



## BoredErica

I read from bigclothcraft that the monitor can only output at the max resolution, so does this mean I can't lower the resolution while playing games? Thanks in advance.


----------



## plum

You should be able to, just gotta make your GPU do the scaling.


----------



## elevatedpixels

Has anyone had to change their power brick/lead and dvid cable before having to get their monitor to work?


----------



## Mkilbride

God damn it.

The 120hz HDMI versions were 519$ and I was thinking on it, figured one more day could not hurt...bumped to 900$.

They are now not such a great deal. Bad Koreans, bad!


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elevatedpixels*
> 
> Hey Guys, I have received one of the Q270SE's in the post. I was wondering is the Gigabyte 6870OC Version Compatible? I tired to plug it all in, and I am getting a flashing green. I haven't popped in another dual link dvi cable yet (supplied one was pants), but was mainly wondering about my graphics card compatibility. I am in the UK. I have looked through the OP's troubleshooting.
> can anyone shed any light on this?


I had the same issue and also the same video card (but from Sapphire and not oc).




But I also tried different cards (8800gt, 4850, 4870) and brought a new cable, at the end I requested RMA
and the seller confirmed few days ago that it was defective.
Now I am waiting for the new one to come and I really hope it will work.
You scared me a bit for the coincidence of the same card and issue,
try to test it with different cards but my experience say that it won't work.
The difference with you is that I never saw the monitor's panel flashing or white lines on it.
It has been completely off all the time in all my tests.


----------



## tael

Finally went and got myself a Q270 SE. (Perfect Pixel from bigclothcraft)
Picked it up about an hour before work, so not had much time to play with it yet.
I did a quick dead pixel check, and ZERO dead!
I know the nonperfect versions are usually zero dead as well, but I'm glad I went with this version.
Little to no visible backlight bleed or "IPS glow".

Loaded up my heavily modded(50 esp files, around a hundred high res texture mods, overhauls, etc) and the game screeeched to a halt, then began slideshowing as soon as I turned around to look at the scenery lol.
Was using 1500/2048mb of VRAM and 4.76 of 8gb RAM.
Did a reboot, switched my Nvidia profile from 4x Supersampling to 2x, reenabled page file for windows, and that cured it. (Had pagefile disabled cause it was giving me trouble with my SSDs)
Ran around a bit and had a solid 60FPS. Maxed 1930/2048mb VRAM and 4.58/8gb of RAM, solid 60FPS.

Can't wait for some more messing around with it.. 5 hours left this shift!
Left it turned on with a video looping as a bit of an extended test.
Hopefully my building isn't burned down.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elevatedpixels*
> 
> Has anyone had to change their power brick/lead and dvid cable before having to get their monitor to work?


Who did you purchase from?

Can anyone else confirm they get white lines on the screen when no input is connected and you hold down the power button
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elevatedpixels*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Who did you purchase from?
> When you hold down power button do you get some weird white lines on the screen?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes yeah. Why do you?
Click to expand...

I get white lines also. I have not been able to plug and input yet. I'm just trying to confirm if this is normal or signs of a defective unit.

I purchased from green sum.

Can someone with a working unit confirm that when you unplug the input and hold the power button you get some white lines on your screen?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> ^ It requires an input to operate... (to get the solid green color). You will see some of those odd lines and other artifacts until you get a solid input in Windows and what not, such as while booting through the BIOS.


Sorry for the multi quoting, can anyone please confirm this is true on a working monitor?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Demonz

Is this monitor going to be any good for gaming?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> Is this monitor going to be any good for gaming?


...

Did you read anything?

It is THE best monitor at current for gaming. Low input lag, possibly 120hz depending on which version you get, price is great, IPS, 27', 2560 x 1440.

Freaking insane for gaming.


----------



## Demonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> ...
> Did you read anything?
> It is THE best monitor at current for gaming. Low input lag, possibly 120hz depending on which version you get, price is great, IPS, 27', 2560 x 1440.
> Freaking insane for gaming.


Thanks for the quick reply, whereabouts can i get the B series PCB monitor? so i can then take advantage of the 120hz?


----------



## Onions

im so excited mine comes in td was supposed to b tuesday but you know DHL... nuff said. anyways ill be getting it td and then i go on vacation







not impressed but meh im still excited


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> Thanks for the quick reply, whereabouts can i get the B series PCB monitor? so i can then take advantage of the 120hz?


Yesterday I'd tell you ebay for 519$.

Now they are 900-1000$.

Sucks. I was just about to buy it, too.


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Yesterday I'd tell you ebay for 519$.
> Now they are 900-1000$.
> Sucks. I was just about to buy it, too.


If you are talking about the Catleap MULTI version, those are said to have a lot of problems, and actually frame skip so they don't show any of those extra hz.
Plus the increased input lag negates some of the reason for wanting a 100hz Catleap anyway.


----------



## Demonz

So if it were a choice between the benQ xl2420t or this monitor, most probably the 60hz version which one would you choose?

Baring in mind i want it for gaming, and i want great picture quality. I currently have the samsung syncmaster p2270HD tv/monitor which i use for games, and all sorts!


----------



## Mkilbride

This is still a better choice over the BenQ, even @ 60hz. It's 27 VS 24, higher resolution, and IPS.

And yes, Multi version if you wanna play your PS3 with it as well. And the 120HZ version is fine according to 120hz.net

Not frame skipping. You OC it.

This is what I'll probably end up getting.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KWJHV8/ref=gno_cart_title_1

Still, if I had acted sooner, for another 60$ or so, I could have had a 120HZ version.


----------



## Gallien

How do you guys deal with IPS glow?


----------



## WALSRU

For me it's only an issue if I'm in a really really low light scene. If I'm at the proper distance and viewing angle it's minimal.


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tael*
> 
> If you are talking about the Catleap MULTI version, those are said to have a lot of problems,.


Beg you a pardon, but the only "problem" catleap multis are seem to have (basing on comments @ ocn and hardforum ) is the supposedly increased input lag in comparison with dvi-only models.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *iammclovin*
> 
> For the Yamakasi Catleap *2703*, does anyone know if these panels have a higher amount of dead pixels?
> I noticed both of bigclothcraft's ads for the 2703 say it can have up to 15 (fifteen) dead pixels.
> That seems unusually high...
> Can any *2703* owners chime in on who they purchased from, and how many (if any) dead pixels found?
> Thanks in advance!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> wow, up to 15 dead pixels is way to much, it was up to 5 before and his other monitors are still listed at up to 5 dead pixels.
> 
> I have sent him a question asking is it a typing error.


Update on the reply from BCC, it is not a typing error.

Very unlikely you would get that many, but why the big change, maybe starting to use lower grade panels ( not enough A- to supply the demand ? )

Hello
In this monitor,
according to our dule, accepted dae pixel is up to 15pcs.
Thanks

- bigclothcraft


----------



## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Update on the reply from BCC, it is not a typing error.
> Very unlikely you would get that many, but why the big change, maybe starting to use lower grade panels ( not enough A- to supply the demand ? )
> 
> Hello
> 
> In this monitor,
> 
> according to our dule, accepted dae pixel is up to 15pcs.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> *- bigclothcraft*


What next... 20-30 oh that's normal

Think i will go with perfect pixel for piece of mind


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chewy*
> 
> What next... 20-30 oh that's normal
> Think i will go with perfect pixel for piece of mind


They should just be selling there B- stock at cheaper prices.. not trying to pass them off like the 1-5s ...


----------



## elevatedpixels

I have been trying to get my monitor working. I tested the power voltage/wattage on the power brick of my Q270SE. All was good, it was reading all the correct numbers.

I changed my Dual link DVI-D cord, I just went out and bought one. connected it all back up.

I am getting nothing. I paid for the Perfect Pixel model with the Monitor Testing service from BCC. Can anyone suggest what I should do now?

I am always getting a flashing green light no matter what.

I have a Gigabyte GV-6870OC AMD Card, which should be compatible. I have tried plugging it in to all DVI ports possible. I pretty much have done everything there needs to do.

?????? Panic time ???????


----------



## BoredErica

How about the tempered glass vs no tempered glass? I thought it was glossy by default, is tempered glass extra or something?
And the default just has DVI, right? I'm assuming DVI-D cable not included.


----------



## exhibitO

Just plugged in the Catleap in bios setup for my new pc. It's still blinking green. Still won't come on. Is this doa

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Which card are you using? Some cards won't power the monitor until windows is fully booted


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Which card are you using? Some cards won't power the monitor until windows is fully booted


Gtx 670 FTW 2GB.

I'm pretty worried man. I'm installing windows now. It's hooked up to my television via hdmi from my video card.

I tried to hook up the tv but no cigar :-\
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ElevenEleven

It should display something once you're outside of the BIOS at least. Like Windows loading screens and dialogs during installation. It should also display the actual BIOS once you enter it (just hold Delete until you enter the BIOS, and hopefully your screen will light up by then). Try both DL-DVI ports on your card, and only plug in one monitor for now.


----------



## exhibitO

Thanks. I will report back after the windows completes its install. I'll also install video drivers.

But is this normal behavior just to flash green and screen doesn't power off because it doesn't detect and input signal?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Onions

O MY GAWD i jsut got my screen pluged in worked right away no dead pixels no issues very littel bleeding







im so happy unreal image quality


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Thanks. I will report back after the windows completes its install. I'll also install video drivers.
> But is this normal behavior just to flash green and screen doesn't power off because it doesn't detect and input signal?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Unsure... as I have not experienced it, but I'm using different brands of Korean monitors, so yours can behave differently. A good process would be to have a working computer with an operating system on it, like Windows. Plug your new monitor into one of the DL-DVI ports (if they are numbered, plug it into port #1), then power on the monitor, give it a couple seconds, and then power on your computer. Wait and see if you eventually get a displayed signal. Repeat with the other DVI port if unsuccessful. Check all the connections. Check that your cable is indeed dual-link DVI and is a working one.


----------



## KickingArs

"If there is dead pixel, I will compensate USD 10.00 for 1 dead pixel."

Just saw this "promise" from fleabay seller ta_planet.

Given the majority of monitors have less than 5 dead pixel, it's safe for those seller to list any monitors as perfect pixel without even checking, and charge $60 more upfront, and make a profit.

If you found more than 5 dead pixel on the monitor received, then there you go here's $50 refund, and you paid $60 more than the one not listed as "Perfect Pixel", you still paid $10 more for this monitor with dead pixel.

Therefore, "Perfect pixel" is just a trick for the seller to sell more monitors. There is no real guarantee of a "perfect pixel". Those who received perfect pixel not because they ordered "perfect pixel" monitor, but because majority of these monitors are perfect pixel (some said over 85%).


----------



## elevatedpixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Unsure... as I have not experienced it, but I'm using different brands of Korean monitors, so yours can behave differently. A good process would be to have a working computer with an operating system on it, like Windows. Plug your new monitor into one of the DL-DVI ports (if they are numbered, plug it into port #1), then power on the monitor, give it a couple seconds, and then power on your computer. Wait and see if you eventually get a displayed signal. Repeat with the other DVI port if unsuccessful. Check all the connections. Check that your cable is indeed dual-link DVI and is a working one.


Yea I am trying this now. I might need to install windows as I am not using windows at the moment. The OS that I am using can not be discussed in these forums. =(


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *elevatedpixels*
> 
> Yea I am trying this now. I might need to install windows as I am not using windows at the moment. The OS that I am using can not be discussed in these forums. =(


Which is why many people are saying to not bother with "perfect pixel" models. That and you won't really see your dead/stuck pixels in normal use.


----------



## exhibitO

I'm booted into windows. It's just flashing green. I installed both vga and display drivers

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## elevatedpixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> I'm booted into windows. It's just flashing green. I installed both vga and display drivers
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


we might have a dead batch dude. =(


----------



## ElevenEleven

Doesn't sound good







Have you tried another dual-link DVI cable? It shouldn't be difficult to get these monitors to work if nothing is wrong or there's no user error.


----------



## exhibitO

I bought a Dual DVI cable with gold connectors for this monitor. Still doesn't work :-\

Dead batch :-\

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## exhibitO

When I hold the power button and it turns off and turn it back on it gets these deep white lines for just a second on the screen

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BoredErica

Whoa, a dead batch? If I buy one from bigclothecraft, am I at risk getting a dud? o_o Who did you buy it from?
And what about the tempered glass, is it different from "glossy" display?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Whoa, a dead batch? If I buy one from bigclothecraft, am I at risk getting a dud? o_o Who did you buy it from?
> And what about the tempered glass, is it different from "glossy" display?


Green sum
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## exhibitO

Something else is going on. I can't get into nvidia control panel. When I click it not high happens. I've done a fresh install. Nothing. I installed graphics card driver before motherboard drivers.

Does this affect the monitor?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Something else is going on. I can't get into nvidia control panel. When I click it not high happens. I've done a fresh install. Nothing. I installed graphics card driver before motherboard drivers.
> Does this affect the monitor?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Have you tryed using a diff panel to see if the other works???

All those lines and stuff can also be a dective GPu.. ive had enough of those to know...


----------



## GrJohnso

For those couple folks with blinking green light on the monitor......... As others have said, this means the monitor isn't detecting a signal. Power is good, just no signal. Even for folks running the ATI 5xxx series video cards that are listed as unsupported, you will get a solid green light and signal eventually when windows loads, but most will still display bios and everything else just fine too. I run mine on a 5970+5870 setup.. No issues, bios access, multiple monitors, etc, etc...

So, if you still don't get a solid green on the monitor after any period of time with the computer on, try a different DVI cable and a different port on your GPU.

If you still do not get a signal, the odds are pretty good there is an issue with the DVI cable connection on the monitor itself. There have been a couple reports of internal cable issues on some of the Korean IPS monitors. Some have had just a simple disconnected ribbon cable inside the monitor, others have just had a bad connection there with no visible issues. Either way, it's better to just report the issue to the seller and return it instead of opening it up and checking. The sooner you do this, the sooner you'll get a working monitor back from the seller.

Lastly, make sure you are using a video card that can support 2560x1440p. Many folks out there tried these with their notebook computer thinking that just a Dual-Link DVI connection would be good enough. Internal specs on most integrated GPU's, and mobile graphics solutions only go up to 1920x1200... You need native 2560x1440 out. Period...

I feel bad for the folks that have received duds, but be assured, you are in the minority. Most folks out there have received good monitors and are quite happy with them. And the few folks that have received duds, have generally gotten them replaced in a timely manner, with only rare exceptions...

Good luck!


----------



## BoredErica

I wish we could get like a tally, and find percentage of duds.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I wish we could get like a tally, and find percentage of duds.


Just look at the sellers' feedback. It should tell you that vast majority of the monitors are fine. Also, buy from sellers who explicitly say that they test their monitors for proper operation prior to shipping.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I wish we could get like a tally, and find percentage of duds.


I'm wondering how many duds are really people making mistakes?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I wish we could get like a tally, and find percentage of duds.


Same as any other item.. Look At Corsair.. there reknown to have top stuff.. Yet they have had to do mass replacement on items..


----------



## exhibitO

Oh my god. My monitor just came on. Here's what I did. I had nvidia control panel open and did a duplicate screens. And forced the resolution. Bam! Lit up like July 4th.

Praise be to Allah.

http://www.imgur.com/NYBfu.jpeg

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ElevenEleven

So your windows thought you had dual displays this whole time? This is why I said to unplug every monitor you have and completely reboot your computer, only leaving the Catleap plugged in (turned on prior to the boot).


----------



## elevatedpixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> I'm wondering how many duds are really people making mistakes?


I don't make mistakes.

I just installed Windows 7 Ultimate on a sep ssd.

took the GPU out of its socket plugged it back in.
Installed new drivers
Plugged in the Yama. (Crossed Fingers)
No Luck.
I have had two of my mates pop round with very different Dual Links. (Gold Plated, Working BCC one, Working AccessoriesWhole one)
I am still getting the flashing greens.

It's a shame. I was looking forward to a new clean 27inch desktop space.
How much is it going to cost me to send one of these back? Surely they have to pay for the Delivery?

I want to open one up to see if the ribbon is lose. But I think I'll send this one back. A friend of mine recommended me going to AccessoriesWhole instead of BCC. I said they were all the same.
He's sitting infront of his desk with three working Beautiful Crossovers.
I think I'll stretch out for a crossover or a Q271.

To be honest this is Bullshizzle. I'm really pissed off.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Given what just happened to the guy above, if you used another display for your windows installation and unplugged it with the computer on, your Windows may have thought you have 2 displays connected, with signal going to the first original monitor. Try duplicating displays, I guess, or do a good reboot with only the 27" plugged in prior to the boot.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> So your windows thought you had dual displays this whole time? This is why I said to unplug every monitor you have and completely reboot your computer, only leaving the Catleap plugged in (turned on prior to the boot).


I tried that and it didn't work.
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## londonfire93

So I think I screwed up. I I was taking the monitor apart to mount on a stand but I accidentally damaged the ribbon cable on one of the monitors. The cables in the one was actual wires and the other was a ribbon cable that was really short. I I get power to the screen but no picture. I the other monitor works perfectly. I is there any way I can get a new ribbon cable or fix it


----------



## killuchen

Bought a Q270 from BCC and received it in 2 days time from purchase date. No dead pixels or any other problems *knocks on wood*


----------



## azuredragon

my yamakasi came but the power brick is broken... should i jus head to frys and buy a new one? or should i jus tape it together. By broken i mean the 2 screw holders broke inside the power brick so its not tight. i dunno if i should jus tape it together with like scotch tape or jus go buy a power brick at frys


----------



## ElevenEleven

You need a power brick of proper polarity. It's not as simple as going to Fry's. I recommend looking at the first posts in the Korean monitor threads for information on proper replacement bricks. There is a proper replacement on eBay for ~$25.


----------



## azuredragon

Yea i jus ordered the one recommended from OP's power brick section, but i mean do u think it'll work if i jus tape the power brick together jus until the replacement one comes? or do u think it'll jus fry the monitor and blow up everything


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azuredragon*
> 
> Yea i jus ordered the one recommended from OP's power brick section, but i mean do u think it'll work if i jus tape the power brick together jus until the replacement one comes? or do u think it'll jus fry the monitor and blow up everything


Since I'm not sure what state your power brick is in, the safe answer is to wait for the replacement brick. It's your $300+ to lose if something goes wrong







I would contact your seller and tell them about the brick. They should send you a new one if it arrived this way.


----------



## azuredragon

can a bad power adapter completely destroy a monitor tho?

Edit: I plugged in the brick to the wall without plugging it to anything and the green light lights up...

Edited Again: so i decided to plug it in anyways cuz i thought "well he did test the monitor before he shipped it so i highly doubt he'll send me a bad brick..." so i scotched taped it and plugged it in works fine but i still ordered the US compatible one from ebay which will come tues-thurs so ill jus use this one for now...


----------



## Quantium40

Hey guys,

Got a question.

Does this site which claims to sell Catleap monitors look even remotely legitimate?

I know this site looks bad, and the price looks way, way too good, but has anyone else ever heard of this?


----------



## Scannall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantium40*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Got a question.
> Does this site which claims to sell Catleap monitors look even remotely legitimate?
> I know this site looks bad, and the price looks way, way too good, but has anyone else ever heard of this?


Honestly, just stick to the sellers that have already proven themselves.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantium40*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Got a question.
> Does this site which claims to sell Catleap monitors look even remotely legitimate?
> I know this site looks bad, and the price looks way, way too good, but has anyone else ever heard of this?


Perhaps you can be the first person on OCN to try it out and see if they're legit...wouldn't recommend if you're on a budget though.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quantium40*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Got a question.
> Does this site which claims to sell Catleap monitors look even remotely legitimate?
> I know this site looks bad, and the price looks way, way too good, but has anyone else ever heard of this?


Two things about that:

- It doesn't list free shipping. So they might be hitting you with $100 for shipping, making it no cheaper than the ebay sellers.

- If it's too good to be true, it probably is


----------



## Quantium40

Heh, thanks for the input. I was mostly hoping somebody else was feeling lucky, because I sure don't.

Well, maybe after a few more paychecks I can afford it from a legitimate seller, then.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TarballX*
> 
> Two things about that:
> - It doesn't list free shipping. So they might be hitting you with $100 for shipping, making it no cheaper than the ebay sellers.
> - If it's too good to be true, it probably is


Looks like all the stuff the Koreans sell on ebay.

Could pay with paypal and make sure its verified first, then dispute if they don't deliver.


----------



## azuredragon

jus loaded up my new pc. Installing windows and my lord this looks amazing. doesnt seem like theres any dead pixels but i gotta install windows first before testing anything lol


----------



## BoredErica

I found a $300 tempered version WITH OSD. This means higher input lag, right?







Are all the ones on Ebay with OSD?

Can somebody please explain to me the difference between a tempered glass vs no tempered glass. The tempered glass is a glossy Catleap with an extra layer of glass on top is my assumption. So tempered glass or no tempered glass, the monitor is glossy, there is no MATTE Catleap, ever.

Please answer, I want to buy a Catleap early tomorrow morning.


----------



## Mkilbride

So what is the default input lag for these Yamasaki's?

I hear that the Multi versions are +8ms, on top of that, that is, I wonder?

The 6ms response time is different than input lag, if I recall correctly, so hmm.

Can't be worse than my current monitor though. This thing is junk.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> So what is the default input lag for these Yamasaki's?
> I hear that the Multi versions are +8ms, on top of that, that is, I wonder?
> The 6ms response time is different than input lag, if I recall correctly, so hmm.
> Can't be worse than my current monitor though. This thing is junk.


I heard since it doesn't have a scalar, it is good in the input lag department.
Just get the DVI only model, I bet you'll be rocking!

http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1911271
The above thread has lots of info about OSD/input lag/etc. Just hit shift-F and search "scalar" or "input lag", etc.

Hope I helped!


----------



## Mkilbride

Question if I end up snagging one of these;

I've heard the base, quite frankly, sucks.

But there are different ones you can get. Anyone can recommend?


----------



## Creativepeter

Hi Thank you for intersting our site.

Yes This price does not include shipping cost.

There are 2 shipping service avaliable

1. EMS(Express Mail Service) which takes 2 - 5 business day = $97

2.International Pacel service which takes 5 - 10 business day = $87

Before shipping, We inspect all monitors to make sure there is no dead pixel.

Thank you.

If you have any question please visit our web store.

Creativepeter Customer Service


----------



## Demonz

Heya guys,

which power adapter am i going to need to get this monitor working in the UK?


----------



## elevatedpixels

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> Heya guys,
> which power adapter am i going to need to get this monitor working in the UK?


Hey man. If you pop in to maplins you can grab a 3-pin power lead. It's a C13 socket. You can get one from Amazon for £5. =) Order from AccessoriesWhole. =)


----------



## Kantastic

Hi guys, I wanted to know if the perfect pixel monitors were guaranteed to have 0 dead pixels period? Someone told me that they could have 1 dead pixel in the center and 5 in other areas to be considered imperfect.


----------



## azuredragon

Just started to test for dead pixel and backlight bleed. absolutely NOTHING WRONG WITH MY MONITOR. i got pretty damn lucky cheers!


----------



## azuredragon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kantastic*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to know if the perfect pixel monitors were guaranteed to have 0 dead pixels period? Someone told me that they could have 1 dead pixel in the center and 5 in other areas to be considered imperfect.


AFAIK pixel perfect is 0 dead pixels if it states its pixel perfect. the 0-5 dead pixels are standard.


----------



## londonfire93

So I think I screwed
was taking the monitor apart to mount on a stand but I accidentally damaged the ribbon cable on one of the monitors. The cables in the one was actual wires and the other was a ribbon cable that was really short. I I get power to the screen but no picture. I the other monitor works perfectly. I is there any way I can get a new ribbon cable or fix itI PLEASE HELP ANY SUGGESTIONS


----------



## tael

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kantastic*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to know if the perfect pixel monitors were guaranteed to have 0 dead pixels period? Someone told me that they could have 1 dead pixel in the center and 5 in other areas to be considered imperfect.


Seems to depend on the sellers policy.
You'll have to read exactly what each seller specifies for it.
bigclothcraft does a check to guarantee that their pixel perfects have 0 dead pixels, and I'm pretty sure I've seen a couple others mentioned that will do that as well.
Some others might find 1-5 acceptable for it.


----------



## Quantium40

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Creativepeter*
> 
> Hi Thank you for intersting our site.
> Yes This price does not include shipping cost.
> There are 2 shipping service avaliable
> 1. EMS(Express Mail Service) which takes 2 - 5 business day = $97
> 2.International Pacel service which takes 5 - 10 business day = $87
> Before shipping, We inspect all monitors to make sure there is no dead pixel.
> Thank you.
> If you have any question please visit our web store.
> Creativepeter Customer Service


Wow . That's creepy.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Creativepeter*
> 
> Hi Thank you for intersting our site.
> Yes This price does not include shipping cost.
> There are 2 shipping service avaliable
> 1. EMS(Express Mail Service) which takes 2 - 5 business day = $97
> 2.International Pacel service which takes 5 - 10 business day = $87
> Before shipping, We inspect all monitors to make sure there is no dead pixel.
> Thank you.
> If you have any question please visit our web store.
> Creativepeter Customer Service


Or C you could Ship it fedex for under 50$ to US48


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kantastic*
> 
> Hi guys, I wanted to know if the perfect pixel monitors were guaranteed to have 0 dead pixels period? Someone told me that they could have 1 dead pixel in the center and 5 in other areas to be considered imperfect.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tael*
> 
> Seems to depend on the sellers policy.
> You'll have to read exactly what each seller specifies for it.
> bigclothcraft does a check to guarantee that their pixel perfects have 0 dead pixels, and I'm pretty sure I've seen a couple others mentioned that will do that as well.
> Some others might find 1-5 acceptable for it.


I believe that the Pixel Perfect check is done at the factory, the check that the sellers do, is to check that the monitor works OK and no serious issues.

Most people would order the non- perfect pixel, and they usually come with no dead pixels and the ones with dead pixels are hard to spot.

I ordered the Perfect Pixel option a few months ago and the box came with this sticker on it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Pefect Pixel monitors are on a sort of a case-by-case basis: some are labeled by the manufacturer, as stated above, and some are a hand-selected batch that's listed for a premium, after no pixel faults were found.

In the latter case, I'd be careful, because a monitor with no pixel faults may still have other, more noticeable defects, such as worse backlight bleed, yellow tint, or something else. My personal instinct is to go for a non-perfect-pixel listing and ask / hope for those other possible defects to be checked for. 3 stuck pixels will bother me less than a lot of yellow tint, for example. Paying more for a hand-selected perfect pixel monitor just to get some other defects is frustrating. Same goes for factory-labeled perfect pixel monitors that aren't subsequently carefully checked. There are plenty of people getting monitors from regular listings without any pixel faults too.


----------



## azuredragon

is there any other way to find out if our monitors are OC-able other than opening it up? i remember reading a safe way to OC somewhere but ive gone through so many threads its gonna be a disaster


----------



## baldbrah

finally mounted my two monitors. wasn't hard at all. the worst part is prying opening the bezel. got some nicks here and there, but whatever.


----------



## Demonz

http://i46.tinypic.com/214xgfo.png
What does that there mean? ( at mainboard p67..)
Does this mean that it won't work with my MSI p67-GD65A mobo or what :S


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azuredragon*
> 
> is there any other way to find out if our monitors are OC-able other than opening it up? i remember reading a safe way to OC somewhere but ive gone through so many threads its gonna be a disaster


If it is not a 2B then it most likely will not overclock far (67Hz)

Just overclock it and see how far you get, no need to open it.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> http://i46.tinypic.com/214xgfo.png
> What does that there mean? ( at mainboard p67..)
> Does this mean that it won't work with my MSI p67-GD65A mobo or what :S


Not sure. I wonder why it won't work well? I have MS-7380, so I think I"m in the clear, the chipset isn't p67.


----------



## londonfire93

My internals on one of my monitors. is there any way i can get a replacement cable?


----------



## Brandonx1

I got my catleap a few days ago. 1/2 of the screen is really dark. If i tap the back of the monitor, it lights up. I think that is the backlight. Can this be replaced? Is it just a loose cable inside? I emailed bigclothcraft a pic and I'm waiting for a replay.


----------



## Clay259

Hi, I just ordered the Q270 from eBay and can't wait for it to arrive. I'm hoping to receive the 2b model so that I can overclock the refresh rate.

What's the odds of receiving the 2b?

Now that I've pulled the trigger and purchased one, I'm feeling quite nervous about it; I hope that I receive a good one. I purchased from BCC and, he is suppose to check for imperfections before shipping the monitor to me, but I'm still nervous.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

2Bs are not available on eBay at all.


----------



## Scannall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> Hi, I just ordered the Q270 from eBay and can't wait for it to arrive. I'm hoping to receive the 2b model so that I can overclock the refresh rate.
> What's the odds of receiving the 2b?
> Now that I've pulled the trigger and purchased one, I'm feeling quite nervous about it; I hope that I receive a good one. I purchased from BCC and, he is suppose to check for imperfections before shipping the monitor to me, but I'm still nervous.


The odds are zero. The 2b board is no longer in production.


----------



## zzTroyzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> My internals on one of my monitors. is there any way i can get a replacement cable?


I'm having a hard time seeing what is wrong with it other than it looks like a bit of plastic has come off, are all the wires still intact? Does it not work?


----------



## Clay259

Oh well, I'm still gonna have a bad ass monitor at a good price. I'm really hoping that this thing displays a beautiful picture. I've never even seen an IPS monitor so I really don't know what to expect. However, from what I've read, they are stunning.


----------



## BoredErica

I've seen a few Catleaps advertised as 120hz being sold at a high price.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I've seen a few Catleaps advertised as 120hz being sold at a high price.


If it was on ebay, then it is the Multi 2b version and it has been reported that it will cut(not display) the extra frames, think there is a video of it on youtube.


----------



## Demonz

Sorry to repost, but really want to purchase this monitor!

Does anyone understand what it means by " At mainboard P67 chipset system mainboard logo may not be compatible, also the screen may not work properly too"

image: http://i46.tinypic.com/214xgfo.png

Thanks indvance guys! as soon as i know there won't be a problem with my MSI P67 GD65A motherboard will be the moment i purchase it









Although im running a GTX 560ti, i don't understand what it means by this as i'll be connecting it to the GFX card it's self.. but just wan't to make sure!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> Sorry to repost, but really want to purchase this monitor!
> Does anyone understand what it means by " At mainboard P67 chipset *system mainboard logo may not be compatible, also the screen may not work properly too*"
> image: http://i46.tinypic.com/214xgfo.png
> Thanks indvance guys! as soon as i know there won't be a problem with my MSI P67 GD65A motherboard will be the moment i purchase it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although im running a GTX 560ti, i don't understand what it means by this as i'll be connecting it to the GFX card it's self.. but just wan't to make sure!


I would guess he means it will not display post or bios.

I have heard of people having this problem and only when the computer is fully booted into windows and it gives a correct output to the monitor, that it turns on and displays the desktop.


----------



## Demonz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I would guess he means it will not display post or bios.
> I have heard of people having this problem and only when the computer is fully booted into windows and it gives a correct output to the monitor, that it turns on and displays the desktop.


Ahh okay, well aslong as it boots into windows, there will be no problem whatsoever! seeing as i have other monitors lying around i can just plug in if needs be!


----------



## Clay259

Does anyone know if the Q270's have glossy screens or matte?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Q270's have glossy screens or matte?


All of the Korean monitors have glossy screens.


----------



## londonfire93

I just purchased my third one today. I just a note the se model has a Drastically different internals and the screen has a tint of blue.


----------



## Brandonx1

I got my catleap a few days ago. 1/2 of the screen is really dark. If i tap the back of the monitor, it lights up. I think that is the backlight. Can this be replaced? Is it just a loose cable inside? I emailed bigclothcraft a pic and I'm waiting for a replay.


----------



## Clay259

Great! I'm really hoping for a glossy screen; I prefere them over the matte because I think they give your display a little "pop."


----------



## Clay259

WOW! When I read things like this it really concerns me. I'm hoping mine is flawless, but I know there is a chance of it having issues as well. Did you order off of eBay, and if so, who was the seller?


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonx1*
> 
> I got my catleap a few days ago. 1/2 of the screen is really dark. If i tap the back of the monitor, it lights up. I think that is the backlight. Can this be replaced? Is it just a loose cable inside? I emailed bigclothcraft a pic and I'm waiting for a replay.


WOW! When I read things like this it really concerns me. I'm hoping mine is flawless, but I know there is a chance of it having issues as well. Did you order off of eBay, and if so, who was the seller?

Sorry for the repost!!!


----------



## Brandonx1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> WOW! When I read things like this it really concerns me. I'm hoping mine is flawless, but I know there is a chance of it having issues as well. Did you order off of eBay, and if so, who was the seller?
> Sorry for the repost!!!


Bigclothcraft. He said he would check the monitor too. I don't think he does tho. Just sends them off and hopes they are ok. The check the monitor thing is a marketing gimmickry. I feel for it.


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brandonx1*
> 
> Bigclothcraft. He said he would check the monitor too. I don't think he does tho. Just sends them off and hopes they are ok. The check the monitor thing is a marketing gimmickry. I feel for it.


OMG,that's who I ordered mine from. If he let yours slip through he must not be checking them very good, if at all. Have you contacted him and explained the situation?


----------



## Brandonx1

Yes but it was yesterday so I'm not expecting a reply until tonight when they return from there weekend


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I've seen a few Catleaps advertised as 120hz being sold at a high price.


Ya their pretty expensive compared to the 60hz catleaps. Since there is only one place you can get them atm... Just don't get the multi on Ebay.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> Ya their pretty expensive compared to the 60hz catleaps. Since there is only one place you can get them atm... Just don't get the multi on Ebay.


Don't see a reason to want a multi, anyways. I'd game on my computer just fine with a DVI-D.


----------



## gb2012

I need a multi-input monitor with scaling as I need to connect my gaming computer and my work laptop. The monitors available in the USA all have displayport, the Korean monitors do not. It is questionable how well the scaler works on the Yamaksi monitors as there haven't been any reviews and users have noticed display lag.

This is a list of the current QHD (2560x1440) monitors.

The Dell U2711 ($ 869 @ Newegg - 3 year warranty)
Samsung S27A850D ($849 @ Newegg - 3 year warranty)
HP ZR2740w ($ 679 @ Newegg - 3 year warranty )
Yamakasi Q271 ($498: $434 - eBay, $64 for 3 year warranty)
Yamakasi Q270 multi ($439: $385- eBay, $54 for 3 year warranty)
EQD Auria 27 ($400 - Microcenter, 1 year warranty)

In the last month, monitor prices have dropped $150 and it looks like vendors are clearing stock of 24 and 27" monitors for new models. Dell is now selling the XPS One which includes an integrated 27" PLS display from Samsung which seems to suggest that there may be a new Dell monitor with a PLS display coming soon. Newegg and Amazon do not sell the EQD Auria 27 QHD monitor which may mean they know that better monitors are coming.

So if you need a DVI only monitor, the Yamakasi 2703 and Q270 are good choices now for $300. However, I am going to wait to see how the new DELL, HP and ASUS monitors are priced.


----------



## BoredErica

I thought Catleaps don't have a scalar...?


----------



## gb2012

There are several models of the Q270 which has been out for several months. The Q270 MULTI does have a scaler. So does the new Q271 which was introduced about 2 weeks ago. The Q271 supports 2560x1440 resolution over the HDMI port, whereas the Q270 only supports 1980x1080. Not too many people have purchased the multi-input version of the monitor and there have been no reviews. So there is no guarantee how the scaler will perform.
The problem in buying a Korean monitor from eBay is that you are stuck with it and can't return it if you are not happy with its performance. You also don't really have a warranty unless you purchase a SquareTrade warranty on eBay.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gb2012*
> 
> There are several models of the Q270 which has been out for several months. The Q270 MULTI does have a scaler. So does the new Q271 which was introduced about 2 weeks ago. The Q271 supports 2560x1440 resolution over the HDMI port, whereas the Q270 only supports 1980x1080. Not too many people have purchased the multi-input version of the monitor and there have been no reviews. So there is no guarantee how the scaler will perform.
> The problem in buying a Korean monitor from eBay is that you are stuck with it and can't return it if you are not happy with its performance. You also don't really have a warranty unless you purchase a SquareTrade warranty on eBay.


Other than the multi/HDMI difference/scalar, the Q270 is the same, right? In that case I'd still prefer a Q270.


----------



## PTCB

After a very long long reading/digging through the thread, I've decided to grab one Cat Q270 SE Black from BCC. I'll take my chances on the dead pixel and will also post an update once I've received the monitor. Thanks so much, Scribby and everyone who joined in the discussion.

However, I've noticed a few newly joined members with one post posting about receiving good product/service from XXX seller. Isn't that obvious? Joined this month with only one post which reads like an ad.









By the way, do you have to pay any extra in order to use the "Bill me later" function on PayPal?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> After a very long long reading/digging through the thread, I've decided to grab one Cat Q270 SE Black from BCC. I'll take my chances on the dead pixel and will also post an update once I've received the monitor. Thanks so much, Scribby and everyone who joined in the discussion.
> However, I've noticed a few newly joined members with one post posting about receiving good product/service from XXX seller. Isn't that obvious? Joined this month with only one post which reads like an ad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, do you have to pay any extra in order to use the "Bill me later" function on PayPal?


Yep... that is why I disgregard the one posters and read more into people who've been on this forum for more than 1 year = why I'm still on the fence... but good luck on your new monitor!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Yep... that is why I disgregard the one posters and read more into people who've been on this forum for more than 1 year = why I'm still on the fence... but good luck on your new monitor!


Ooh, are you gonna disregard me then?








I actually very recently joined, asking for monitor advice, then found about this place... Going to go buy one next week, Friday or so.

I will let you guys know how it goes, of course.








*Fingers Crossed, toes crossed, whole entire body crossed*

I plan on sticking around this place for a while though.


----------



## BizzareRide

How is the response time on these things when compared with other 27" monitors with 1ms and 2ms response times? Is it noticeably slower navigating Windows and opening/closing programs when paired with an SSD? Is there any lag?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BizzareRide*
> 
> How is the response time on these things when compared with other 27" monitors with 1ms and 2ms response times? Is it noticeably slower navigating Windows and opening/closing programs when paired with an SSD? Is there any lag?


People, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think SSD has anything to do with this. You might get more blurred movements. Might. I bet it's quite tolerable for me when I get it though, since I'm moving up from an old 19 inch Insignia TV.









I bet if you have sensitive eyes you'll get a difference though, if you move from a 1ms TN. But what you will definitely notice is the awesome color quality of an IPS! I read that today's TN panels that do 16.7 million colors are 6 bit monitors that use dithering, then round up. Pretty shady, imo.


----------



## cre8ive65

Just curious about gaming at these resolutions, currently at 1080p my min/avg/max FPS are 35/82/107 respectivley, however both my CPU and GPU's never hit more than 60-64% usage. I hear that this is a CPU bottleneck AT THAT SPECIFIC RESOLUTION. I'm hoping that by going up in resolution the CPU GPU's will work harder (70-80%) and get me an average of 60FPS @ 1440p, am I correct?


----------



## BoredErica

I'm curious as to why it would be cpu bottleneck at that specific resolution.







As in, 1440p is special or something. I'd figure it'd be massive GPU bottleneck. On epic proportions.


----------



## cre8ive65

Most people are telling me its a bulldozer issue, but it is not. I found a fellow who had the same issue as me with a 2600K, that is, underusage of GPU's and CPU and Low frame rates. My coworker told me that when a resolution doubles, typically GPU workload increases by 65% the original and CPU workload increases 25% of the original.

The 3 games I play the most are CS:GO beta, L4D2, and BF3. I am confident that at 1440p The first 2 games will run well above 60FPS (last time I checked, my single 7970 got me 240FPS in the source engine, but I've since added a second and i don't even see a point in checking







). I'm just worried about battlefeild 3, if the usages stay the same at 1440p my framerates will drop even further. I just want my setup to play BF3 at 60FPS average at 1440p.


----------



## Caribou

Hello, I signed up to the board to enter in the club. I'd now like to ask for clarification on some things which are very important to me.









1) Mounting on a third party stand is something I'd like to do eventually. I'm concerned about the monitor breaking easily because it's not built strong. Is there a difference between the Catleap and Shimian?

2) Any known issues with using a Sapphire Radeon 3850HD AGP video card?

3) I'll also need to clone video output using the video card's second output in S-Video mode. Will that be okay? For example, suppose I am doing the activity in question 4)..

4) Am I correct in assuming that since the video card, (and a specific chip?), is responsible for scaling, that there should be no more latency when playing CS 1.6 at 800x600 than when using the native resolution? ..And to go back to question 3).. could the video card also clone that video to the S-Video output?

5) Watching 1080p video in fullscreen, scaling 1080 to 1440, adds one extra line for each four lines of resolution. How damaging is that to the image? How does the computer create the fifth line, and are the other four lines also destroyed and recreated?


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BizzareRide*
> 
> How is the response time on these things when compared with other 27" monitors with 1ms and 2ms response times? Is it noticeably slower navigating Windows and opening/closing programs when paired with an SSD? Is there any lag?


I'll asked that question several times. It seems that while it is not quite as good as the super-fast response time TN panels, the difference is barely noticeable.
I'll let you know my opinion when my 120hz Catleap arrives in a couple days.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> I'll asked that question several times. It seems that while it is not quite as good as the super-fast response time TN panels, the difference is barely noticeable.
> I'll let you know my opinion when my 120hz Catleap arrives in a couple days.


You running overclocked SLI 680s?

Cause i cant get 120fps in all games with 2 Overclocked gtx 670s,, and to benifit from 120hz u have to be hitting 120fps..


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> You running overclocked SLI 680s?


No but I have a golden 670 on the way that should be here just in time for the Catleap. Right now with SLI you are limited to 100hz @ 1440p.
I was going to get a 680 but there's really no point with the 670's being so good.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> No but I have a golden 670 on the way that should be here just in time for the Catleap. Right now with SLI you are limited to 100hz @ 1440p.
> I was going to get a 680 but there's really no point with the 670's being so good.


2 670s wont get u 120fps.. cause i have 2 670s.. at 1250mhz/3800 mem

Why im getting 2 680s that hit 1300mhz.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> 2 670s wont get u 120fps.. cause i have 2 670s.. at 1250mhz/3800 mem
> Why im getting 2 680s that hit 1300mhz.


I am aware of that, at least in BF3. But like I said I wouldn't be able to use 120hz if I did SLI so I'm sticking with a single card for now. I wouldn't recommend you spend the extra $100 per 680, you'll only see a couple frames improvement. The 670 I bought is 1.3Ghz stable.
Once the 7-series comes out I'll be grabbing a 780.


----------



## Hokies83

ima get a 1 good 680 and hold out if i can for a 780

But im not getting just anyold 680...
Galaxy GeForce GTX 680 SOC White Edition Does 1320mhz with stock boost clock lol...

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z373DW/ref=asc_df_B007Z373DW2103407?smid=AZ8ZZL30AH7DI&tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=asn&creative=395105&creativeASIN=B007Z373DW&hvpos=1o3&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12550557971484543349&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=


----------



## shadcrkd

Got my white Q270 and HD 7950 and everything is great, except the monitor will not wake when the computer comes out of sleep mode. Thought it was a driver problem but I tried both 12.6 and 12.7 beta, and updated mobo bios (amd said that was a potential cause). It will work when hibernating/restarting. Anyone else with this problem? Sounds like a issue with gfx drivers but supposedly they fixed this in 12.6


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> You running overclocked SLI 680s?
> Cause i cant get 120fps in all games with 2 Overclocked gtx 670s,, and *to benifit from 120hz u have to be hitting 120fps*..


If that statement is true, then why do people using 120Hz just for desktop work claim a better visual experience?


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> If that statement is true, then why do people using 120Hz just for desktop work claim a better visual experience?


The desktop is running at 120 FPS. But you also don't have to be getting 120 FPS constant in games to still benefit from 120hz. As long as you are above 60 FSP it will be an improvement.


----------



## Aeloi

Thought I'd add to this _cyclopean_ thread.

Monitor: Yamakasi Catleap 27" WQHD S-IPS, paid $319.90. [BCC]
GPU: XFX 6850 XXX Edition

This is my first IPS monitor and I really like it. It enhances the quality of my pictures, movies, and games. Skyrim looks vastly different from before.

The packaging was rather pathetic. I'm slightly surprised that it made it to my house in okay condition because I used to be a package handler myself. It came with about 4 stuck pixels, however, I managed to get them unstuck by gently pressing on them. I've had this monitor for nearly two months without any issues. My only peeve is that there is a *glossy finish* and *one dead pixel*. The stand is not very good either, but it doesn't bother me. I'm considering buying another one.

EDIT:
I forgot to include that I have very minimal back-light bleed and it's not noticeable unless I'm testing for it.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Aeloi*
> 
> Thought I'd add to this _cyclopean_ thread.
> Monitor: Yamakasi Catleap 27" WQHD S-IPS, paid $319.90. [BCC]
> GPU: XFX 6850 XXX Edition
> This is my first IPS monitor and I really like it. It enhances the quality of my pictures, movies, and games. Skyrim looks vastly different from before.
> The packaging was rather pathetic. I'm slightly surprised that it made it to my house in okay condition because I used to be a package handler myself. It came with about 4 stuck pixels, however, I managed to get them unstuck by gently pressing on them. I've had this monitor for nearly two months without any issues. My only peeve is that there is a *glossy finish* and *one dead pixel*. The stand is not very good either, but it doesn't bother me. I'm considering buying another one.


Keep in mind though, the glossy finish will show a slightly better picture than the AG coating would. But I know what you mean, mine is practically a mirror when the screen is dark lol


----------



## Hokies83

Here's a side by side compare of the High end DL DVI cable from Monoprice.com And the cheapo one that comes with the Catleap.


----------



## Gallien

What benefit is there for that thick of a DVI cable?


----------



## Hokies83

Better cable better signal.. at 10$ shipped to my door had to grab it.


----------



## ElevenEleven

If you are going for a 120Hz signal, it's better to get a well shielded cable like that with a big choke (since they are so cheap anyway), but for normal monitors, you can go with a thinner gauge. I got the "fat" ones just in case, but they definitely are hard to work with. Next gauge down would have been fine.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

The big, thick ones are a pain to plug in. I'm actually thinking of ordering the thinner ones from Monoprice.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> The big, thick ones are a pain to plug in. I'm actually thinking of ordering the thinner ones from Monoprice.


I thought it was quite easy lol


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I thought it was quite easy lol


For me, they were incredibly difficult to bend in order to fit it into the tight DVI connector on the back of the monitor.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> For me, they were incredibly difficult to bend in order to fit it into the tight DVI connector on the back of the monitor.


Mine went right in..

Did you get it close and use the screws to mount it?

i also got a 6ft cord to have more wiggle room.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Mine went right in..
> Did you get it close and use the screws to mount it?
> i also got a 6ft cord to have more wiggle room.


Well, I didn't have a lot of space to work with, so that's probably it. I connected the cable with a wall really close to the monitor.

I, too, have a 6 foot cord







.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Well, I didn't have a lot of space to work with, so that's probably it. I connected the cable with a wall really close to the monitor.
> I, too, have a 6 foot cord
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Yah mine is on a desk i just turned the monitor to the side and installed it lol.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> That's scary. Why not just go for Greensum or BCC though?


I paid 260$ shipped for my Pix perfect Catleap Via EvgaForums BigBrag..

I never pay retail for something unless it is urgent... And i had a U2711 at the time and had no issues holding onto it while i searched for that great deal.


----------



## voltaire2030

Hi guys,

My friend and I just received our cat leap. Mine worked but my friend cat leap won't boot on a 670 gtx EVGA on dvi-d. We check the dvi cable, the power brick all is fine on my cat leap but not on his. The strange thing is that we try with an old ati 3870 and 580 gtx, both have dvi-i, and my friend cat leap will boot on dvi-i but not on dvi-d on the 670 gtx. What give ?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I paid 260$ shipped for my Pix perfect Catleap Via EvgaForums BigBrag..
> I never pay retail for something unless it is urgent... And i had a U2711 at the time and had no issues holding onto it while i searched for that great deal.


Ahh, I see.









I, for one, am too impatient for my Catleap to order from anybody else other than Greensum/BCC. It's a negative trait.








I hope my DVI-D cable will work out of the box.


----------



## joeh1974

I'm considering picking one up and possibly 2 more later on for eyefinity. For single monitor gaming, I will be using standard 1440p...however...for Eyefinity gaming I was thinking about 1080p across all three monitors. Do I need the versions with the scalers in order to back the resolution down to 1080p? Also, I'll probably be putting on a 3rd party stand which allows for pivot rotation. It appears that the Catleaps are the hardest versions to remove stands from. Which are the easiest/best? Thanks.


----------



## BoredErica

I heard you can use your graphics card to change the resolution. Correct me if I'm wrong. And if I'm wrong, I might need to rethink my purchase.


----------



## Scannall

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> I'm considering picking one up and possibly 2 more later on for eyefinity. For single monitor gaming, I will be using standard 1440p...however...for Eyefinity gaming I was thinking about 1080p across all three monitors. Do I need the versions with the scalers in order to back the resolution down to 1080p? Also, I'll probably be putting on a 3rd party stand which allows for pivot rotation. It appears that the Catleaps are the hardest versions to remove stands from. Which are the easiest/best? Thanks.


My Qnix just uses the VESA mount for its stand. 4 screws and it's off. I believe the iMon is the same way.


----------



## PTCB

Should I let the seller check the monitor before shipping or just have it shipped with factory seal (unchecked)?

I'm only asking this because it'll take a couple more days extra for the monitor check. And also, I believe that at very least the monitor manufacturer should have some kind of a QC process before releasing them out to the suppliers. What do you guys think? Please weigh in. Thank you.

PS. For those of you who already received your monitor, did you choose to have it checked or not? And, what's the condition of the monitor? Thanks.


----------



## Hokies83

Id always have it checked helps avoid a DOA.. which is a headache with having to ship back to Korea.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voltaire2030*
> 
> Hi guys,
> My friend and I just received our cat leap. Mine worked but my friend cat leap won't boot on a 670 gtx EVGA on dvi-d. We check the dvi cable, the power brick all is fine on my cat leap but not on his. The strange thing is that we try with an old ati 3870 and 580 gtx, both have dvi-i, and my friend cat leap will boot on dvi-i but not on dvi-d on the 670 gtx. What give ?


Are you guys plugging it into the correct ports with the correct cable? Also make sure no other monitor is plugged in to that PC or EVGA card...


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Id always have it checked helps avoid a DOA.. which is a headache with having to ship back to Korea.


Thanks. BCC is going to check it anyway. First time buyer so I just got overly paranoid.









BTW, I love Blacksburg. Had a great time there. Seeing your name just reminded me.


----------



## mistax

New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor. Based on the model on the front page of this thread. this should be the no speaker and glass model right? trying to figure out if i should get this since its 310 versus crossover led-p which is 370


----------



## voltaire2030

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Are you guys plugging it into the correct ports with the correct cable? Also make sure no other monitor is plugged in to that PC or EVGA card...


Yes we check that. We only plug one catleap at a time. When we plug mine all is fine but when we plug his, we have either a black screen, green screen, vertical lines flashing at the beginning and again black screen. It is strange that it will do that on dvd-i on a old build we got but plugging my recent build with a 670 gtx evga on dvi-p, no post. On my catleap, old build on dvi-i or new build on dvi-p it will always post. Another thing is the first day that he plug his catleap, all was fine. Only on the second day. Very strange.

So we are down to the wiring inside the screen, but it is a pain to open and we dont want to dent it if we need to sent it back. Unless somebody have a brillant ideal on how to solve that, I thing we will sent it back.


----------



## killuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Thanks. BCC is going to check it anyway. First time buyer so I just got overly paranoid.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I love Blacksburg. Had a great time there. Seeing your name just reminded me.


I ordered mine last week on Wednesday from BCC and I asked for it to be checked out before shipping and it got two days after on Friday. When I opened it up. It didnt seem like they opened it to check for defects. But mine has no problems and no dead or stuck pixels







.

BEST $320 spent ever


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor. Based on the model on the front page of this thread. this should be the no speaker and glass model right? trying to figure out if i should get this since its 310 versus crossover led-p which is 370


I went with the Crossover. Mine should be here Wednesday or Thursday. It says, expected Thursday, but it's 7 AM and it's a 30 minute drive away at the sorting facility from my house. I imagine, they might bump it up to Wednesday soon, as well, it says 1-3 day shipping....so if it got here Tomorrow, that'd be day 3 in my eyes.









Monday = day 1, Tuesday = 2 day, Wednesday = Day 3. That is how I believe it to be.









Based on all reviews I read;

Crossover has less chances of blacklight bleeding, they ONLY accept 3 dead / stuck pixels, and the stand is MUCH better, as are the parts supposedly from someone who took it apart found the soldering and wiring was much cleaner.

Also, about 35 % of people whom bought Crossovers found they had a A+ panel, not A-.

Of course, it's luck of the draw with ANY of the Korean monitors.

But there is a reason why the Crossover commands a 50$ lead. Well, for one, it uses steel instead of plastic in many of it's parts, the stand is hard plastic + metal instead of the Catleaps rather cheap stand which most replace with a 30-50$ stand anyways!

So to me! Buying the Crossover wasn't really spending more...I'd have to order a new stand off of Monoprice for 30$ + 6-7$ shipping and then install the damn thing. Or I could pay 55$ on Newegg for a really nice mount that would be along the lines of the one on the Crossover.

So to save myself time, and a little money, I went Crossover. I also feel really good about Crossover, just the logo, the reviews.

As I said it's luck of the draw with ANY of these monitors...but Crossover, out of the brands release so far, seems to command a high quality product, but again, that is the 50$ Premium. Also, they don't OC at all. Most Catleaps don't OC any more, but alot of them can do 65-67hz, while Crossover can do none.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> You running overclocked SLI 680s?
> Cause i cant get 120fps in all games with 2 Overclocked gtx 670s,, and *to benifit from 120hz u have to be hitting 120fps*..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> If that statement is true, then why do people using 120Hz just for desktop work claim a better visual experience?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> The desktop is running at 120 FPS. But you also don't have to be getting 120 FPS constant in games to still benefit from 120hz. *As long as you are above 60 FSP it will be an improvement.*


To NateZ68. My point exactly. (I guess sarcasm is difficult to convey here.)

For the top bolded statement. This is the same as saying that you NEED to get 60 fps from your video card to use a 60Hz LCD monitor effectively.

There is a lot of misinformation floating about. Novices can't distinguish truth from fallacy.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I went with the Crossover. Mine should be here Wednesday or Thursday. It says, expected Thursday, but it's 7 AM and it's a 30 minute drive away at the sorting facility from my house. I imagine, they might bump it up to Wednesday soon, as well, it says 1-3 day shipping....so if it got here Tomorrow, that'd be day 3 in my eyes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Monday = day 1, Tuesday = 2 day, Wednesday = Day 3. That is how I believe it to be.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Based on all reviews I read;
> Crossover has less chances of blacklight bleeding, they ONLY accept 3 dead / stuck pixels, and the stand is MUCH better, as are the parts supposedly from someone who took it apart found the soldering and wiring was much cleaner.
> Also, about 35 % of people whom bought Crossovers found they had a A+ panel, not A-.
> Of course, it's luck of the draw with ANY of the Korean monitors.
> But there is a reason why the Crossover commands a 50$ lead. Well, for one, it uses steel instead of plastic in many of it's parts, the stand is hard plastic + metal instead of the Catleaps rather cheap stand which most replace with a 30-50$ stand anyways!
> So to me! Buying the Crossover wasn't really spending more...I'd have to order a new stand off of Monoprice for 30$ + 6-7$ shipping and then install the damn thing. Or I could pay 55$ on Newegg for a really nice mount that would be along the lines of the one on the Crossover.
> So to save myself time, and a little money, I went Crossover. I also feel really good about Crossover, just the logo, the reviews.
> As I said it's luck of the draw with ANY of these monitors...but Crossover, out of the brands release so far, seems to command a high quality product, but again, that is the 50$ Premium. Also, they don't OC at all. Most Catleaps don't OC any more, but alot of them can do 65-67hz, while Crossover can do none.


A+ and A- have nothing to do with dead pixels. You can have an A+ panel with dead pixels. It's about how closely they can calibrate to a specific color temperature and how good their color uniformity is. I don't know where you're taking your 35% number either. I do agree with you about the luck of the draw part.


----------



## Mkilbride

35% based off a poll in the Crossover thread. 35% of users received one with zero dead pixels or stuck pixels and no backlight bleeding.

Now the greatest of odds, but that means 1 in 3 users receive a damn near perfect monitor.

As for the whole Crossover policy, this is another reason I went with them, even if they are lying and didn't check it 2-3 times, it makes me feel that much safer.

And they are the authorized dealer on Amazon.. Though recently removed which worries me greatly.

Quote:


> Understanding our pixel warranty policy
> Defective Pixel (Include Dead/Stuck/Sub Pixel ) : 3 maximum
> 
> If you don't understand the meaning of Defective Pixel,
> you can search "Defective pixel" on Wikipedia and get the information.
> Our shipping team staffs were double- triple checked on the monitor before we arrange shipment.


----------



## exhibitO

So after a few days with my new Catleap Q270, I can say I'm very happy. No back light bleeding I can see and no dead Pixels.

I got mine from green sum. Good luck guys
PS the color reproduction on this thing is the best I've ever seen in my life.

Also, please note I bought a separate dvi - d cable with gold connectors for this monitor but it did not work. I ended up using the one that came with the monitor. I still can't figure out why
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> So after a few days with my new Catleap Q270, I can say I'm very happy. No back light bleeding I can see and no dead Pixels.
> I got mine from green sum. Good luck guys
> PS the color reproduction on this thing is the best I've ever seen in my life.
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


8-bit and S-IPS.

You see,

Most LCD's people own, say from a few years ago, and most still now, are 6-bit with dithering. Which causes alot of banding and "fake" colors.

These are 8-bit, not the best, but they are -true- 8bit, which means 16.7M colors, not 256,000 /w Dithering

Which is why movies, pictures, ect, stuff like that ,looks amazing on them.


----------



## exhibitO

It looks so amazing. I went back and turned on my HP laptop Dv7, the color looks so horrid lol its funny how you don't know how bad something is until you upgrade.

Also those worried about running this beast on a single card, don't worry.

I'm running a gtx 670 2gb and almost all my games are smooth as butter on 1440p. Including batman arkyham city and max Payne 3... All maxed out

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> It looks so amazing. I went back and turned on my HP laptop Dv7, the color looks so horrid lol its funny how you don't know how bad something is until you upgrade.
> Also those worried about running this beast on a single card, don't worry.
> I'm running a gtx 670 2gb and almost all my games are smooth as butter on 1440p. Including batman arkyham city and max Payne 3... All maxed out
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Are you running Arkham City with max AA on? I'm around 45-60 FPS (this is with adaptive V-sync enabled from the nVidia control panel). However, when it dips, I do notice it.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> I ordered mine last week on Wednesday from BCC and I asked for it to be checked out before shipping and it got two days after on Friday. When I opened it up. It didnt seem like they opened it to check for defects. But mine has no problems and no dead or stuck pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> BEST $320 spent ever


Sweet, bro. Glad to hear you got a good one. Fingers crossed for mine.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Anyone know a solution to fix backlight bleeding? I recently removed the OEM stand to install a new stand and think that the cause of the backlight bleeding could have been overtightened screws when I was screwing the screws back in.

I've read from online sources that tapping the monitor a couple times with a microfiber cloth seemed to have fix the problem as well. Thoughts anyone?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Anyone know a solution to fix backlight bleeding? I recently removed the OEM stand to install a new stand and think that the cause of the backlight bleeding could have been overtightened screws when I was screwing the screws back in.
> 
> I've read from online sources that tapping the monitor a couple times with a microfiber cloth seemed to have fix the problem as well. Thoughts anyone?


Take a pic

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> To NateZ68. My point exactly. (I guess sarcasm is difficult to convey here.)
> For the top bolded statement. This is the same as saying that you NEED to get 60 fps from your video card to use a 60Hz LCD monitor effectively.
> There is a lot of misinformation floating about. Novices can't distinguish truth from fallacy.


Lets see you run 120hz at 70fps..

Sure you can do it from your desktop... but were speaking gaming here.

You screen cant.. You are processing 70 fps ..


----------



## voltaire2030

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voltaire2030*
> 
> Yes we check that. We only plug one catleap at a time. When we plug mine all is fine but when we plug his, we have either a black screen, green screen, vertical lines flashing at the beginning and again black screen. It is strange that it will do that on dvd-i on a old build we got but plugging my recent build with a 670 gtx evga on dvi-p, no post. On my catleap, old build on dvi-i or new build on dvi-p it will always post. Another thing is the first day that he plug his catleap, all was fine. Only on the second day. Very strange.
> So we are down to the wiring inside the screen, but it is a pain to open and we dont want to dent it if we need to sent it back. Unless somebody have a brillant ideal on how to solve that, I thing we will sent it back.


Here is the video :


----------



## exhibitO

Anyone else have a 2P monitor? I gave no idea if it is OCable or not. How do I turn down the brightness on this bad boy?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> green-sum clarified that he was confused and that my HD6870 is compatible.
> As far as I have seen here and on other forums, the only important thing for the graphic card is to have a dual link dvi (both dvi-i and dvi-d) port.
> I have tested it also on 4870, 8800gt and my old 4850, even if are not listed as compatible I have read of many that successfully run them with the catleap.
> I have also made a video showing my tests
> 
> 
> 
> :
> 
> 
> 
> green-sum told me that:
> "By the manufacturer's inspection, if it comes out monitor problem, DOA or other defect, we'll replace new one or refund.
> But if the monitor does not have any problem, (there are lots of other situations) by the eBay policy the return and re-sending charges are buyer's duty."
> I have tried with a compatible card and a brand new dual link dvi calbe, I don't think I can be blamed of wrong configuration so this must be a DOA case.
> What do you think, is there anything more I can try having watched my experiments? (I already tried to re-install the drivers)
> Thank you all!


My story is over, I got a working replacement (2G series) by greem-sum, he also offered a refund.
I asked him to check and bubble wrap it before shipping.
I didn't pay for the shipping back, just the customs again.
Thank you for all the people who helped me, especially CursiveQ and rollOver that suggested me to get a replacement instead of a refund.

I noticed that in my working yamakasi the dvi port of the monitor is firm, while in the DOA one wasn't.
I hope this can help to diagnose the problem.

Now I am going to enjoy my monitor, finally!


----------



## joeh1974

Can anyone confirm that the monitors will scale down to 1080p via video drivers? I'm thinking about getting 3 for eyefinity, but I want to make sure that I don't need the models with a scaler board. I'm assuming that the ATI Catalyst software can scale down the resolution for me?


----------



## Caribou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Anyone know a solution to fix backlight bleeding? I recently removed the OEM stand to install a new stand and think that the cause of the backlight bleeding could have been overtightened screws when I was screwing the screws back in.
> I've read from online sources that tapping the monitor a couple times with a microfiber cloth seemed to have fix the problem as well. Thoughts anyone?


I'm interested in installing a Vesa mount and so converting this monitor to a Vesa -mounted monitor is very important to me also. How do the different models compare?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Caribou*
> 
> I'm interested in installing a Vesa mount and so converting this monitor to a Vesa -mounted monitor is very important to me also. How do the different models compare?


I think it's easier to mount a third-party mount on the newer Q270 LED tempered glass models compared to the older models referenced in the OP. You no longer have to remove that silver bezel on the back, as there is no silver bezel in the first place. However, you still have to open up the monitor, which might require a little patience and careful handling.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mistax*
> 
> New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor. Based on the model on the front page of this thread. this should be the no speaker and glass model right? trying to figure out if i should get this since its 310 versus crossover led-p which is 370


\Yeah, sounds correct to me.

Thanks for the lowdown on Crossovers. I'm not sure if I actually have enough money to buy a Crossover vs a Catleap though. Sounds good, I'll do *yet* more research!


----------



## londonfire93

So if anyone was paying attention I mentioned that I damaged the ribbon cable on one of my monitors. The so I ordered a new one on sunday so my third monitor and I should be receiving it today. I I hope it is as good as my other ones. The I also contacted bcc about getting a replacement cable he said he has no problem sending me a replacement ribbon cable if he can find one. I he seemed very understanding considering it was my fault


----------



## stephanep

Hello,

I'm considering buying one, and since it seems most of the knowledgeable people about catleap hang around in here, I think you can help me in my decisions.

My personal impression is that bigclothcraft generate the most positive feedback (even if there are plenty of other reputable vendors). However, it looks like the dead pixel policy limit of newer models has changed :
- 15 dead pixels for the newer 2703
- 5 dead pixels for the older (or white) Q270
I could not find this information for some other vendors, on some rare ones there is even a "max 1 dead pixel in the center" limit (in addition to a max 5 dead pixel total) and pictures to describe it.

While i can imaging working with a monitor with 4 dead pixels if I'm unlucky, i think a 14 dead pixels one would get quite frustrating. Does anyone here have some information about this change ? (if not i will email the vendor). Do you think that this change reflect the possibility that the newer model would be more likely to have dead pixels ? (lesser factory quality or controls ?). Does this policy change between vendors or models ?

Do you know if the stand on the newer 2703 is the same, or is it slightly better ? my desk is quite stable, how would the bad OEM stand affect me ?

I'm sorry if those questions were answered before, i tried to go back 15 pages on this topic but there's quite a lot of message to process so i might have missed the info.

Regards,

Stephane


----------



## killuchen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephanep*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm considering buying one, and since it seems most of the knowledgeable people about catleap hang around in here, I think you can help me in my decisions.
> My personal impression is that bigclothcraft generate the most positive feedback (even if there are plenty of other reputable vendors). However, it looks like the dead pixel policy limit of newer models has changed :
> - 15 dead pixels for the newer 2703
> - 5 dead pixels for the older (or white) Q270
> I could not find this information for some other vendors, on some rare ones there is even a "max 1 dead pixel in the center" limit (in addition to a max 5 dead pixel total) and pictures to describe it.
> While i can imaging working with a monitor with 4 dead pixels if I'm unlucky, i think a 14 dead pixels one would get quite frustrating. Does anyone here have some information about this change ? (if not i will email the vendor). Do you think that this change reflect the possibility that the newer model would be more likely to have dead pixels ? (lesser factory quality or controls ?). Does this policy change between vendors or models ?
> Do you know if the stand on the newer 2703 is the same, or is it slightly better ? my desk is quite stable, how would the bad OEM stand affect me ?
> I'm sorry if those questions were answered before, i tried to go back 15 pages on this topic but there's quite a lot of message to process so i might have missed the info.
> Regards,
> Stephane


I saw some pages back also asking the same thing about if the 15 dead pixel on the newer model was a typo. The guy that emailed BCC got a reply back saying that it wasn't a typo. I also heard that the new stand on the newer model is a lot better and less wobbly than the old. I myself went with the Q270.

I bought the one for $319.99 from BCC. Ordered it last week wednesday and received it Friday around 1pm est. Extremely fast shipping and I have no blacklight or dead/stuck pixels. I think I got really lucky


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> So if anyone was paying attention I mentioned that I damaged the ribbon cable on one of my monitors. The so I ordered a new one on sunday so my third monitor and I should be receiving it today. I I hope it is as good as my other ones. The I also contacted bcc about getting a replacement cable he said he has no problem sending me a replacement ribbon cable if he can find one. I he seemed very understanding considering it was my fault


I've had a good experience working with bigclothcraft. I hope he carries out what he says.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stephanep*
> 
> Hello,
> I'm considering buying one, and since it seems most of the knowledgeable people about catleap hang around in here, I think you can help me in my decisions.
> My personal impression is that bigclothcraft generate the most positive feedback (even if there are plenty of other reputable vendors). However, it looks like the dead pixel policy limit of newer models has changed :
> - 15 dead pixels for the newer 2703
> - 5 dead pixels for the older (or white) Q270
> I could not find this information for some other vendors, on some rare ones there is even a "max 1 dead pixel in the center" limit (in addition to a max 5 dead pixel total) and pictures to describe it.
> While i can imaging working with a monitor with 4 dead pixels if I'm unlucky, i think a 14 dead pixels one would get quite frustrating. Does anyone here have some information about this change ? (if not i will email the vendor). Do you think that this change reflect the possibility that the newer model would be more likely to have dead pixels ? (lesser factory quality or controls ?). Does this policy change between vendors or models ?
> Do you know if the stand on the newer 2703 is the same, or is it slightly better ? my desk is quite stable, how would the bad OEM stand affect me ?
> I'm sorry if those questions were answered before, i tried to go back 15 pages on this topic but there's quite a lot of message to process so i might have missed the info.
> Regards,
> Stephane


Yes, there was apparently a change in the pixel standard for the newer 2703 models. When I got it however, I can't quite remember if it was still 5 or 15, but it's possible that BCC could have changed their standard since.

The stand on the newer 2703 isn't exactly the same as the old one, but it's still pretty crappy. If your desk is stable like you say it is, then the OEM stand shouldn't bother you that much. If not, I would highly recommend a new stand to replace it. I bought this FYI...and it works plenty well. In fact, it works better than any OEM stand I have ever dealt with in my history of working with monitors.


----------



## Hokies83

ID rather have a Wobbly Stand then 15 dead pix...

Stand is not the greatest.. i really hate it does not have tilt...

As long as the room dont shake are u dont run into your desk the stand is fine..


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Lets see you run 120hz at 70fps..
> Sure you can do it from your desktop... but were speaking gaming here.
> You screen cant.. You are processing 70 fps ..


The monitor refreshes the screen at 120Hz. What does that have to do with the graphics card fps.

All these claims are nonsense that your graphics HAVE to sync with the monitor refresh rate.

Why are these fallacies being repeated.

If what you claim is true then anyone getting less than 60fps on a normal 60Hz monitor is fooling themselves. I don't think anyone has a problem playing with eg, a 45fps frame rate on a 60Hz monitor.

Are you claiming that I cannot game with less than 60fps?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> The monitor refreshes the screen at 120Hz. What does that have to do with the graphics card fps.
> All these claims are nonsense that your graphics HAVE to sync with the monitor refresh rate.
> Why are these fallacies being repeated.
> If what you claim is true then anyone getting less than 60fps on a normal 60Hz monitor is fooling themselves. I don't think anyone has a problem playing with eg, a 45fps frame rate on a 60Hz monitor.
> Are you claiming that I cannot game with less than 60fps?


Use google new guy...

Quit with the false info.. The info is everywhere do some research.

How can your screen Refresh at 60hz when it is only displaying 50fps..? exactly it cant..

Common sense.

Unless u turn off V Sync.. then welcome the screen tearing..

You can try Virtue MVP and see if it help with tearing.. but it is hit and miss..

Screen tearing is a visual artifact in video where information from two or more different frames is shown in a display device in a single screen draw.[1]

The artifact occurs when the video feed sent to the device isn't in sync with the display's refresh, be it due to non-matching refresh rates - in which case the tear line moves as the phase difference changes (with speed proportional to difference of frame rates) - or simply lack of sync between two equal frame rates, in which case the tear line is at a fixed location corresponding to the phase difference. During video motion, screen tearing creates a torn look as edges of objects (such as a wall or a tree) fail to line up.

Tearing can occur with most common display technologies and video cards, and is most noticeable on situations where horizontally-moving visuals are commonly found, such as in slow camera pans in a movie, or classic side-scrolling video games.

Prevention

The ways to prevent video tearing are dependent on the technology of the display device and video card, the software in use, and the nature of the material being shown. The most common solution is to use multiple buffering.

Most systems will use this function along with one or both of these two methods:

V-sync

Vertical synchronization is an option found in most systems, wherein the video card is prevented from doing anything visible to the display memory until after the monitor has finished its current refresh cycle.

During the vertical blanking interval, the driver would order the video card to either rapidly copy the off-screen graphics area into the active display area (double buffering), or treat both memory areas as displayable, and simply switch back and forth between them (page flipping)

Complications

When vertical synchronization is in use, the frame rate of the rendering engine will exactly equal the monitor's refresh rate, if it was higher. Although this feature normally results in improved video quality, it is not without trade-offs in some cases.

Judder

Vertical synchronization can also lead to artifacts in video and movie presentations, as they are generally recorded at frame rates significantly lower than the typical monitor frame rates (24-30 frame/s). When such a movie is played on a monitor set for a typical 60 Hz refresh rate, the video player will miss the monitor's deadline fairly frequently, in addition to the interceding frames being displayed at a slightly higher rate than they were intended for, resulting in an effect similar to judder - see Telecine: Frame rate differences.

Input lag

Video games, which have a wide variety of rendering engines, tend to benefit well visually from vertical synchronization, as a rendering engine is normally expected to build each frame in real time, based on whatever the engine's variables specify at the moment a frame is requested. However, because vertical synchronization causes input lag, it interferes with the interactive nature of games,[2] and particularly interferes with games which require precise timing or fast reaction times

Benchmarking

Lastly, when one wishes to benchmark a video card or rendering engine, it is generally implied that the hardware and software render the display as fast as possible, without regard to monitor's capabilities or the resultant video tearing. Otherwise, the monitor and video card will throttle the benchmarking program, causing it to generate invalid results.

Beam tracing
Main article: Beam tracing

Some graphics systems support a function wherein the software can perform its memory accesses so that they stay at the same time point relative to the display hardware's refresh cycle. In this case, the software would write to the areas of the display that have just been updated, staying just behind the monitor's active refresh point. This allows for copy routines or rendering engines which have a somewhat unpredictable throughput as long as the rendering engine is capable of "catching up" with the monitor's active refresh point when it falls behind.

Alternatively, the software could instead stay just ahead of the active refresh point. Depending on how far ahead one chooses to stay, this method may demand code that copies or renders the display at a fixed, constant speed. Too much latency would cause the monitor to overtake the software on occasion, leading to rendering artifacts, tearing, etc.

Demo software on classic systems such as the Commodore 64 and ZX Spectrum frequently exploited these techniques, owing to the predictable nature of their respective video systems, to achieve effects that might otherwise be impossible.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Use google new guy...
> Quit with the false info.. The info is everywhere do some research.
> How can your screen Refresh at 60hz when it is only displaying 50fps..? exactly it cant..
> Common sense.
> Unless u turn off V Sync.. then welcome the screen tearing..
> You can try Virtue MVP and see if it help with tearing.. but it is hit and miss..


Please don't mistake someone just joining this forum as someone new to computers. I wrote my first program in 1977. Fortran on punched cards. Remember those? I had my first PC in the eighties and assembled all of my X86 machines myself, since the nineties.

Yes, I'm that old, but still like RTS games.

When you have a card that only gets a low fps (10-40) rate, tell me this.

Can I play a game on a 60Hz monitor or not?

All of the people gaming on 4800, 5770, 9800GT, 260GTX, etc, etc, are fooling themselves. Are you saying that they have screen tearing, if V sync is on? If not, then how are they gaming?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> Please don't mistake someone just joining this forum as someone new to computers. I wrote my first program in 1977. Fortran on punched cards. Remember those? I had my first PC in the eighties and assembled all of my X86 machines myself, since the nineties.
> Yes, I'm that old, but still like RTS games.
> When you have a card that only gets a low fps (10-40) rate, tell me this.
> Can I play a game on a 60Hz monitor or not?
> All of the people gaming on 4800, 5770, 9800GT, 260GTX, etc, etc, are fooling themselves. Are you saying that they have screen tearing, if V sync is on? If not, then how are they gaming?


Yes you can play that game...

With Vsync on.. With it off your going to have troubles.


----------



## exhibitO

Can someone tell me how to reduce brightness?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> The monitor refreshes the screen at 120Hz. What does that have to do with the graphics card fps.
> All these claims are nonsense that your graphics HAVE to sync with the monitor refresh rate.
> Why are these fallacies being repeated.
> If what you claim is true then anyone getting less than 60fps on a normal 60Hz monitor is fooling themselves. I don't think anyone has a problem playing with eg, a 45fps frame rate on a 60Hz monitor.
> Are you claiming that I cannot game with less than 60fps?


If you play a game at 60 fps on a 60Hz monitor and then a 120Hz monitor it will look no different.

if you play a game at 120fps on a 60Hz monitor, you will only see half the frames(so will look no different than 60 fps on a 60Hz monitor), if you play on a 120Hz monitor you will see all the 120 frames and ultra smooth.

If you are going to game at less than 60fps, then no need for a 120Hz monitor.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can someone tell me how to reduce brightness?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Buttons on bottom edge, right hand side of monitor.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> You running overclocked SLI 680s?
> Cause i cant get 120fps in all games with 2 Overclocked gtx 670s,, and to benifit from 120hz u have to be hitting 120fps..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Lets see you run 120hz at 70fps..
> Sure you can do it from your desktop... but were speaking gaming here.
> You screen cant.. You are processing 70 fps ..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> If you play a game at 60 fps on a 60Hz monitor and then a 120Hz monitor it will look no different.
> 
> If you are going to game at less than 60fps, then no need for a 120Hz monitor.
> 
> Buttons on bottom edge, right hand side of monitor.


This debate started with the claims by Hokies87.

I am claiming that you can game at less than the screen refresh rate, 60Hz or 120Hz. He seems to think that you have screen problems if the card fps rate is less than the monitor refresh rate.

By the way Hokies87, do you think that you get a constant fps in a game? What happens when your frame rate varies at different points in the game, so that at one point you have 30, than 47, then 125, then 97, etc?

To quakermaas:
If your max frame rate is less than 60Hz, then no benefit, but once you have more, you will benefit from a higher refresh rate monitor.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can someone tell me how to reduce brightness?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


I don't know what model you have, but with my Q270 tempered glass model, there are two buttons right next to the power button that allow me to lower/raise brightness levels.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> This debate started with the claims by Hokies87.
> I am claiming that you can game at less than the screen refresh rate, 60Hz or 120Hz. He seems to think that you have screen problems if the card fps rate is less than the monitor refresh rate.
> By the way Hokies87, do you think that you get a constant fps in a game? What happens when your frame rate varies at different points in the game, so that at one point you have 30, than 47, then 125, then 97, etc?
> To quakermaas:
> If your max frame rate is less than 60Hz, then no benefit, but once you have more, you will benefit from a higher refresh rate monitor.


Everything you need to know is in post 6461

I never said it would not run.. I said u would not see 120hz.. unless your at 120fps..

If your at 70fps your getting 70hz.. if 90 fps 90 hz... this is why they invented VSync.. To sync your monitors refresh rate to your fps for smooth game play ..

It is pretty common knowledge.

Vertical Sync (VSync) - An option which forces the game to match the framerate to the refresh rate of the monitor and graphics card. The function is something like the "restrictor plate" in stock car racing - it limits the top speed of the application, but provides greater stability. Turn on Vsync only if you're experiencing artifacts (see above) you can't attribute to ramped up settings elsewhere.
Source(s):
https://www.tentonhammer.com/node/448


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voltaire2030*
> 
> Yes we check that. We only plug one catleap at a time. When we plug mine all is fine but when we plug his, we have either a black screen, green screen, vertical lines flashing at the beginning and again black screen. It is strange that it will do that on dvd-i on a old build we got but plugging my recent build with a 670 gtx evga on dvi-p, no post. On my catleap, old build on dvi-i or new build on dvi-p it will always post. Another thing is the first day that he plug his catleap, all was fine. Only on the second day. Very strange.
> So we are down to the wiring inside the screen, but it is a pain to open and we dont want to dent it if we need to sent it back. Unless somebody have a brillant ideal on how to solve that, I thing we will sent it back.


Yeah... sounds like that is the only solution left... if it works fine using the same cable and and same port with your catleap but not his, then it may be a monitor issue... contact the seller whom you bought it first - if you open it , that may void the warranty.


----------



## plum

Anyone have experience with DHL customs/duty fees in montreal or around the area?


----------



## NateZ28

My friend has a 120hz Acer. Compared side by side with my 60hz 2ms response time TN monitor, his seems smoother even when it is running at a lower FPS.
I have a 480 GTX and he has a 280. So my FPS is much higher but for some reason the motion in games looks better on his screen no matter what game it is. Especially in Battlefield 3 which he has to run on the lowest settings to get around 50 FPS, looks smoother than on high, 60 FPS constant on my monitor.

That's why I refuse to purchase a 60hz monitor again.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> My friend has a 120hz Acer. Compared side by side with my 60hz 2ms response time TN monitor, his seems smoother even when it is running at a lower FPS.
> I have a 480 GTX and he has a 280. So my FPS is much higher but for some reason the motion in games looks better on his screen no matter what game it is. Especially in Battlefield 3 which he has to run on the lowest settings to get around 50 FPS, looks smoother than on high, 60 FPS constant on my monitor.
> That's why I refuse to purchase a 60hz monitor again.


could be your panel..

Cause if hes at 50fps at your at 60 fps yours should be better..

Wait to get the catleap and try again.

I have a 120hz Samsung 3d TV

Catleap blows it away..


----------



## futr_vision

I can't comment on the scaling but I can say that Eyefinity may be tricky because the monitors only use dual-link dvi. I've only seen a max of 2 dual-link dvi ports on AMD cards. You'll need to but an active adapter to convert a display port or two. Your other option is to wait for the Displayport 1.2 MST Hubs which are supposed to be on sale this summer. I haven't seen them yet but there have been working prototypes demoed at some of the big shows. This will allow you to take one display port and run it through the hub and out to 3 dual-link DVI ports. Fingers crossed they come out soon. That's what I am waiting for.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> could be your panel..
> Cause if hes at 50fps at your at 60 fps yours should be better..
> Wait to get the catleap and try again.
> I have a 120hz Samsung 3d TV
> Catleap blows it away..


Well the monitor is refreshing 120 times a second despite the FPS. Other reviews I have read have confirmed what I am saying: that gaming feels smoother even below 60 FPS @120hz.
I will compare the Catleap to his on Friday, but mine will be the 120hz version so it should blow his away.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Everything you need to know is in post 6461
> I never said it would not run.. I said u would not see 120hz.. unless your at 120fps..
> If your at 70fps your getting 70hz.. if 90 fps 90 hz... this is why they invented VSync.. To sync your monitors refresh rate to your fps for smooth game play ..
> It is pretty common knowledge.
> Vertical Sync (VSync) - An option which forces the game to match the framerate to the refresh rate of the monitor and graphics card. The function is something like the "restrictor plate" in stock car racing - it limits the top speed of the application, but provides greater stability. Turn on Vsync only if you're experiencing artifacts (see above) you can't attribute to ramped up settings elsewhere.
> Source(s):
> https://www.tentonhammer.com/node/448


This is what you said. Post 6397
Cause i cant get 120fps in all games with 2 Overclocked gtx 670s,, and *to benifit from 120hz u have to be hitting 120fps..*

Post 6461, what???

Vsync does not work that way.

Vsync on, means that your video card waits until the screen refreshes to output the new graphic frame. It does NOT change your monitors refresh rate. Your monitor stays at 60Hz or 120HZ or whatever.

As an example, and if your monitor is rated at 60Hz refresh.
Then if your card is generating >60fps, it will only update at 60fps to match the 60HZ monitor refresh.
If your card is generating less than 60fps, it take longer than 1/60 sec to display consecutive frames.
In other words, the same card generated graphic frame will take at least 2 monitor refreshes to display.

That is why double and triple buffering of card generated frames was developed. To smooth the delivery of graphic frames to a fixed refresh rate display. If you did not have buffering, the card would have to wait until the stored frame was output to the monitor before beginning to generate the following ones. Double buffering allows it to work on another one while waiting to display the first. Triple buffering allows the storing of 2 frames while generating a third.

On a 120 Hz monitor, if your card is generating >60, it can use the 120Hz monitor refresh rate, whereas it was limited by the 60Hz rate. Remember all games have varying fps rates during play, even within a sub-second of time. Your game WILL seem smoother even if you do not max out the 120Hz rate of the monitor.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Well the monitor is refreshing 120 times a second despite the FPS. Other reviews I have read have confirmed what I am saying: that gaming feels smoother even below 60 FPS @120hz.
> I will compare the Catleap to his on Friday, but mine will be the 120hz version so it should blow his away.


The issue with a 120hz monitor at half the fps is it can cause a great mass of issues..

Your screen is refreshing at 120hz but your monitor is only displaying 60 frames a second.

So in other wolds your screen is refreshing 2x per frame.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> This is what you said. Post 6397
> Cause i cant get 120fps in all games with 2 Overclocked gtx 670s,, and *to benifit from 120hz u have to be hitting 120fps..*
> Post 6461, what???
> Vsync does not work that way.
> Vsync on, means that your video card waits until the screen refreshes to output the new graphic frame. It does NOT change your monitors refresh rate. Your monitor stays at 60Hz or 120HZ or whatever.
> As an example, and if your monitor is rated at 60Hz refresh.
> Then if your card is generating >60fps, it will only update at 60fps to match the 60HZ monitor refresh.
> If your card is generating less than 60fps, it take longer than 1/60 sec to display consecutive frames.
> In other words, the same card generated graphic frame will take at least 2 monitor refreshes to display.
> That is why double and triple buffering of card generated frames was developed. To smooth the delivery of graphic frames to a fixed refresh rate display. If you did not have buffering, the card would have to wait until the stored frame was output to the monitor before beginning to generate the following ones. Double buffering allows it to work on another one while waiting to display the first. Triple buffering allows the storing of 2 frames while generating a third.
> On a 120 Hz monitor, if your card is generating >60, it can use the 120Hz monitor refresh rate, whereas it was limited by the 60Hz rate. Remember all games have varying fps rates during play, even within a sub-second of time. Your game WILL seem smoother even if you do not max out the 120Hz rate of the monitor.


Im sticking with what i posted..

You can have that opinion thats fine but everything ive been told for 20 years says diff.. and every Tech web site says the same.

You will have to excuse me for a little bit im buying to 1300mhz Gtx 680s to ensure me reaching 60fps with any game maxxed out at 2560x1440 for atleast the next year t come... Cause i hate screen tearing...


----------



## NateZ28

Well even if what I'm saying is incorrect and under 60 FPS there is no difference between 60hz and 120hz; getting any frame rate between 60 and 120 FPS you will see an advantage over 60hz.
You do not have to have 120 FPS constant. 120 FPS constant would be ideal because that would take *full* advantage of 120hz.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Im sticking with what i posted..
> You can have that opinion thats fine but everything ive been told for 20 years says diff.. and every Tech web site says the same.
> You will have to excuse me for a little bit im buying to 1300mhz Gtx 680s to ensure me reaching 60fps with any game maxxed out at 2560x1440 for atleast the next year t come... Cause i hate screen tearing...


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Well even if what I'm saying is incorrect and under 60 FPS there is no difference between 60hz and 120hz; getting any frame rate between 60 and 120 FPS you will see an advantage over 60hz.
> You do not have to have 120 FPS constant. 120 FPS constant would be ideal because that would take *full* advantage of 120hz.


Hokies83:
Listen here. I'm not telling you what to buy or not.

What I have a problem with is advice to people making them feel that they HAVE to get the fastest graphics card to benefit from a 120HZ monitor. You do them a disservice with that advice.
By the way, screen tearing only occurs with Vsync OFF. Once you have it ON, you can't get screen tearing, no matter the screen refresh rate or fps rates.
In fact, with Vsync OFF, you will always get some screen tearing, no matter how fast or slow your card, as there will always be frames generated, that do not sync exactly with the monitors refresh rate.

Look at NateZ28's experience.
Remember this, *empirical data trumps theory everytime*.

NateZ28:
Exactly this.


----------



## voltaire2030

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Anyone have experience with DHL customs/duty fees in montreal or around the area?


60$ duties fee .... As usual we get rob ! So with exchange fees US to CDN $, total cost over 400$... But better then 1k $ + tax


----------



## voltaire2030

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Yeah... sounds like that is the only solution left... if it works fine using the same cable and and same port with your catleap but not his, then it may be a monitor issue... contact the seller whom you bought it first - if you open it , that may void the warranty.


That is what we think also... We tried eveything down to do a clean install of windows 7 and drivers... Thx for the input


----------



## Mkilbride

Guys!

Something freaky happened here.

My Credit card was just locked down.I bought one of these from Accesorieswhole and bam!


----------



## BoredErica

Is there any real evidence that there's a higher rate of dead pixels on the newer model vs old model?

To poster above: Maybe it's because your bank thinks it's weird that you're randomly purchasing an expensive item and think it has been stolen? o_o

BCC or Greensum for the win?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Is there any real evidence that there's a higher rate of dead pixels on the newer model vs old model?
> To poster above: Maybe it's because your bank thinks it's weird that you're randomly purchasing an expensive item and think it has been stolen? o_o
> BCC or Greensum for the win?


I dunno, I've bought more expensive stuff before, like a 700$ item over the net and they didn't say a word.

I haven't seen anyone else report this issue in the thread either;

and Accessorieswhole was removed from Amazon.

But the odd part is my Monitor tried to deliver today - I even got a notice from Fedex.

I ordered Saturday morning and it only shipped yesterday @ 5:30 PM from South Korea...and by 1 PM today, it was at my door...but I was asleep.

So fast shipping, but now in 5-7 days a new card is being shipped to me.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Take a pic
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2



Here's a pic of the backlight bleeding. It doesn't look too pronounced, although camera might have made it seem like so. I'l admit that it looked a lot worse when I had brightness up a little bit more, but I've since tuned it down some.


----------



## exhibitO

Having some issue. My games are detecting he refresh rate at 59hz. I tried to 60 in nvidia video card settings it worked. But Windows is still reporting it at 59hz.

I'm getting some tearing in BF3. I'm using the 2P model

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Having some issue. My games are detecting he refresh rate at 59hz. I tried to 60 in nvidia video card settings it worked. But Windows is still reporting it at 59hz.
> I'm getting some tearing in BF3. I'm using the 2P model
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


In Nvidia Control Panel Manage 3d settings all the way at the bottom turn on Force VSync.. Has always fixed tearing for me.


----------



## Hokies83

IPS Bleed really dont hurt anything.. And it comes or goes as you look at it at diff angles.. Also taking a picture of it make sit like 100x worse then it really is.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> In Nvidia Control Panel Manage 3d settings all the way at the bottom turn on Force VSync.. Has always fixed tearing for me.


Okay, I will do so.

I think I screwed something else up, under screen resolution. Should it say 60Hz or 59Hz, defualt was 59 for me, I changed it to 60 in windows, I noticed i'm getting some scrolling lag in chrome, so I change it back to 59 in windows, but nvidia is stuck on 60Hz, maybe they are conflicting?

Unless I make a custom resolution and force it to 59Hz, also what should the color depth be?
16 bit or 32 bit?


----------



## Hokies83

32 bit. I have mine set to 59hz


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> 32 bit. I have mine set to 59hz


so you did a custom? under native if I change to 32 bit it reverses to 60Hz, and 16bit for 59Hz,....weird.

I should make a custom?


----------



## wkstar

Order placed with BCC
No pixel or light bleed problems
«::::»«::::»«:







::» «::E::» «::R::» «::F::» «::E::» «::C::» «::T::»«::::»«::::»


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> so you did a custom? under native if I change to 32 bit it reverses to 60Hz, and 16bit for 59Hz,....weird.
> I should make a custom?


Hmm mine does not do that.. But 59hz or 60hz should not matter.. it is only 1 hz diff. But you do want the True 32 bit colors.


----------



## Onions

ok so i was playing my games great fun was had. Then i turned it off then on again and now i get a flashign green light... i have checked everything and tried all the troubleshooting mehtods but im stumped it sais (using teamveiwer) that its not dual dvi link.. could the cable have decided to stop working and i need a new one? i was hoping to avaid this but its the only thign left?

edit: fixed it


----------



## TarballX

Regarding the 59/60hz..
http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?t=301860

Basically, neither of them are the exact refresh rate of the monitor, and both of them display the same refresh rate on the monitor.


----------



## Aeloi

@wkstar is that an AT2035 or a AT2020 USB?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Okay, I will do so.
> I think I screwed something else up, under screen resolution. Should it say 60Hz or 59Hz, defualt was 59 for me, I changed it to 60 in windows, I noticed i'm getting some scrolling lag in chrome, so I change it back to 59 in windows, but nvidia is stuck on 60Hz, maybe they are conflicting?
> Unless I make a custom resolution and force it to 59Hz, also what should the color depth be?
> 16 bit or 32 bit?


Did forcing VSync work for you? ive always used it.. stops the tearing.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> IPS Bleed really dont hurt anything.. And it comes or goes as you look at it at diff angles.. Also taking a picture of it make sit like 100x worse then it really is.


Meh, it's still annoying to see when loading up BF3.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Meh, it's still annoying to see when loading up BF3.


Mine almost has none..

But i can see it bothering somebody playing a game with a dark map.


----------



## wkstar

AT2020 USB


----------



## Aeloi

Do you use it for podcasting?


----------



## wkstar

Everyone says That I sound like a radio announcer
Nice & Clear
I got tired of cheep Mics where people said I sound like I am in another room or under water
I never liked headsets, So I finally got a good Mic


----------



## joeh1974

Do these monitors have any issues displaying 1080p instead of 1440p? Thinking about doing these in Eyefinity down the road, and want to make sure the monitor will handle 1080 without a scaler board. Thanks!


----------



## foilfence

If anybody from Asia is contemplating getting one and would have doubts on shipping, here's how mine went. Paid for the item on Wednesday. Took greensum roughly 2 days to ship it out since I did ask him to test the monitor beforehand.

http://www.dhl.com.ph/content/ph/en/express/tracking.shtml?brand=DHL&AWB=2516735185%0D%0A

My only problem was he did not undervalue the item by a lot and I still had to pay close to 50$ tax. I was expecting to pay a lot less in tax XD.

Got the new 2703 one, cheaper than the catleap and has tempered glass + a better base. No dead pixels / dust behind the glass on the unit I got.


----------



## SIDWULF

My intuition is telling me that running a 120hz monitor at 60fps will "feel" smoother then running a 60hz monitor at 60fps.

Why? Your input will feel smoother because on a 120hz screen it is refreshing at 2x the speed so it *may* catch the next frame in the frame buffer faster then it would on a screen with a refresh rate of 60hz.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SIDWULF*
> 
> My intuition is telling me that running a 120hz monitor at 60fps will "feel" smoother then running a 60hz monitor at 60fps.
> Why? Your input will feel smoother because on a 120hz screen it is refreshing at 2x the speed so it *may* catch the next frame in the frame buffer faster then it would on a screen with a refresh rate of 60hz.


This is true, according to all technical websites I've read about it.


----------



## Onions

ok so im having a nother issue when i open up teamveiwer and change resolution to 1440p it work the monitor turns on as sooon as i close the res drops to 1080p... wth do i need a fresh driver install again or somthing?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onions*
> 
> ok so im having a nother issue when i open up teamveiwer and change resolution to 1440p it work the monitor turns on as sooon as i close the res drops to 1080p... wth do i need a fresh driver install again or somthing?


You could try that. Wouldn't hurt.


----------



## wkstar

Some people seem to have alot of trouble.

I can not be the only person that plugged everything together , pressed the power button and was happy


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Some people seem to have alot of trouble.
> I can not be the only person that plugged everything together , pressed the power button and was happy


I am too for the most part (with the exception of some minor backlight bleeding), although I was pretty fortunate IMO.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> I am too for the most part (with the exception of some minor backlight bleeding), although I was pretty fortunate IMO.


Minor backlight bleed is really good.

My 2008 Sceptre's monitor has a dead backlight, came from the factory like that. I HAD NO IDEA THOUGH! I didn't know for years until someone told me. I was just always kinda unhappy with the way it looked, but previously only used CRT's and never used anyone elses LCD. Til one day someone looked and said "Dude, your backlight is dead".

I just thought LCD's looked like that and hated it em, but was something I had to deal with.


----------



## zzTroyzz

I just got my Catleap yesterday, didn't have a lot of time with it before I had to catch a flight, but I just plugged it in and it lit right up, no issues in Windows and looked great.


----------



## Onions

i was happy at first it all worked great then for some reason it jsut stopped working correctly







though i think its a software problem


----------



## londonfire93

I got my third catleap yesterday. No dead pixels but some back light bleeding. I is there any way to fix it


----------



## BoredErica

For the guy that asked if you can scale down resolution on Catleap, I asked the question at http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7254880#post7254880 Last post.


----------



## 161029

I don't want to disturb you guys or drag this thread off topic, but:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286200/tftcentral-korean-monitor-sample-request

Is anybody willing to send a unit or two to TFTCentral?


----------



## Prox

So what's the general consensus with these monitors? From what I've gathered they don't overclock to 100hz+ anymore, is this correct? Anyone problems with build quality or panel quality?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prox*
> 
> So what's the general consensus with these monitors? From what I've gathered they don't overclock to 100hz+ anymore, is this correct? Anyone problems with build quality or panel quality?


If they overclock, it's very mild, nowhere close to 100hz+. The stand on the older models are utter crap, I heard. I saw a poll on this website, about 88% of people who bought Catleaps had no problems with it whatsoever. Of those, some are due to power cables, etc etc.


----------



## amshad0w

Hey, I ordered one off Ebay on Monday, just got an Email last night that it was shipping. But this morning I got an email from Fedex asking me to fill out an FCC-740 form to get it through customs. I live in the US. Did the seller screw up on the forms? Doesn't seem to be normal from everything I've read. Would appreciate anyones input.


----------



## plum

Who was the seller?


----------



## amshad0w

Purchased from Pallascospi.


----------



## BoredErica

When the seller estimates how much the item is worth to decide how much I pay in fees and such, how do they decide? A value that is not too high but not too low? Or just arbitrarily?


----------



## wkstar

There are ZERO custom fees for the United States. Most people put $30.oo value so that the box gets looked over quicker.
If you live in Europe , Boxes with $30.oo or less value pay the base minimum customs fee, thats how the $30.oo value for overseas shipping came about
They gotta put something on the customs form, So everyone justs puts $30.oo


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> There are ZERO custom fees for the United States. Most people put $30.oo value so that the box gets looked over quicker.
> If you live in Europe , Boxes with $30.oo or less value pay the base minimum customs fee, thats how the $30.oo value for overseas shipping came about
> They gotta put something on the customs form, So everyone justs puts $30.oo


I heard that one time Green-Sum valued it at $50 or something and the customer had to pay more.








Is the customs place so dumb they think a 27 inch IPS monitor is worth less than $30?









Good news for me then!
I was considering a Crossover briefly, then remembered I don't have the cash to buy it. I can barely afford a Catleap.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I heard that one time Green-Sum valued it at $50 or something and the customer had to pay more.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is the customs place so dumb they think a 27 inch IPS monitor is worth less than $30?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Good news for me then!
> I was considering a Crossover briefly, then remembered I don't have the cash to buy it. I can barely afford a Catleap.


My Wifes mom Sends us Beef Jerky from Vietnam afew times Customs has Snatched it and ate are stuff..

All we get back is a box with a letter saying they took it..

And some times it makes it thru customs and we get to enjoy...

Vietnam has the best beef Jerky ive ever had and you cant buy it here...


----------



## wkstar

Customs does Not care whats in the box unless there is fruit ( that may have insects ), Drugs, or what ever else they look for.
When you have to look at 1500 ++ boxes a day, you are not gonna spend much time on each unless something catches your notice.


----------



## voltaire2030

Dream-seller


----------



## KaielSu

A few questions about the Catleap Q270 and the 2703.

1.) Are we sure they both use the exact same panel/PCB? (Exact same display quality)
2.) Is there a difference between glass and no glass in terms of how the display looks? Reflects?
3.) Is the stand/build on the 2703 sturdier/better than the Catleap Q270?


----------



## muscleking

just buy it already.
get the no glass one. just get the cheapest one.
i got it from greensum when it was on sale 2 months ago. no dead pixel just little backlight bleed on the lower right. can't even notice it only when black. 99% of the time screen is not black.

seriously everybody should move to this monitor and ditch all other like 1080p, 1600x900 (are you serious? my mom use those)

my 9800gtx+ can drive this monitor for gaming medium to low with 40-60fps and it just looks good at that resolution. no need AA, etc.

can anybody tell me why are there so many people still using low resolution displays? this is just so much easier for the eyes. i have this and dell u3011 tell you what i like the catleap more. but will keep the dell. but if i haven't buy the dell i will get 3 of these for gaming.


----------



## The viking

I live in Norway, and our customs and border controls are very Bad when it comes to declaring packages. Well.. as far as it goes when one receives something from foreign countries. Sending something out from Norway is fee-less as far as customs care. But receiving something however, is a pain in the hmmm. Whenever you buy something that is valued over 37 dollars(yes that is true), they charge you with somewhere around 33% of whatever the package is valued at. So when i bought my catleap from Korea, I had the guy set the value to 30 dollars, so that I could avoid fees and that stuff. Luckily, the monitor dodged all fees =D Anyway, Hope you can sort it out, and that you don't have to pay much in fees!


----------



## muscleking

always use post office.
i told the guy to declare sub $100 usd and he did and got through no problem.
only time i pay tax is buying camera lenses, freaking expensive, one lens was 2400 bucks and seller did their best and declared 700 still paid 100 bucks tax. another one 1400 bucks declared 1400 and paid 170 bucks. never ever buy new lens again.

always tell them to declare 100 bucks and fedex and ups sucks. don't use them. ups never can figure out my address, it's a freaking new high rise condo and i had to go to air port ups office 20km away to pick up many times.

one time i got my cousin to order a 200mw green laser from china but never got it. probably custom took it. 200mw red laser came through no problem from ebay.

i talked to some other seller on ebay they told me oh the catleap power supply is 240w only. i am like ok. talked to green sum he said it's 110-240. always buy from seller who knows their own stuff.


----------



## Clay259

Damn,BCC just emailed me this

Hello~

I have bad news for you.
Now, Q270 with perfect pixel is out of sold temporarily.
So, how about sending Q270 SE with perfect pixel?
Difference between Q270 and Q270 SE is Built-in Speaker.
(Q270 SE don't have Built-in Speaker. and other spec is same)
Otherwise, if you want full refund, I will follow your opinion immediately.

Checking monitor is service for buyer.

And this is normal monitor.
This may have dead pixel.
(up tp 5 dead pixel, this is regarded as normal)

Our staff will check below condition.
1. function of monitor with compatible video card.
2. damage of monitor.
3. checking dead pixel
-we only check that this monitor has less than 5 dead pixel
If you want perfect pixel with reasonable price,
I recommend Potalion 2710QW with perfect pixel.
You can find this monitor in my store.

4. Checking serious light bleeding.
-All monitor may have any light bleeding.
Almost monitor may have light bleeding in black screen.
This is S-IPS wide angle screen.
According to view angle, light bleeding may happen.
This is normal.
So, we check only "Serious" Light Bleeding.

It takes 1~3 business days to check monitor.
Thanks

I will hear from you.

Best Regards
Thanks

- bigclothcraft

Now I don't know what to do; any suggestions?


----------



## Hokies83

LoL id never use the crappy speakers on these monitors lol...

meh to me if im buying a perfect pixel to me that is 0 dead pixels..

Shop else where.. BBC needs to learn what perfect pixel is..


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL id never use the crappy speakers on these monitors lol...
> meh to me if im buying a perfect pixel to me that is 0 dead pixels..
> Shop else where.. BBC needs to learn what perfect pixel is..


I know right! I ordered this monitor Sunday, and now I get this..I'm really disappointed. Is he actually saying that the perfect pixel isn't perfect?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> I know right! I ordered this monitor Sunday, and now I get this..I'm really disappointed. Is he actually saying that the perfect pixel isn't perfect?


Yeah he just changed his way of thinking afew days ago...

Buy one from somebody else..

If i was paying a prem for a perfect pixel that means it is perfect no dead pixels...

Before his normal panels were the 1-5 dead pixels... Now he is selling his perfect pixels as those... And his regular ones with up to 15 dead pixels...

All the same prices as items before hand...

Maybe he will see the light if he is not selling any..


----------



## Clay259

Yea, I'm gonna get a refund and buy from someone else. Does anyone know another seller worth trying?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> My Wifes mom Sends us Beef Jerky from Vietnam afew times Customs has Snatched it and ate are stuff..
> All we get back is a box with a letter saying they took it..
> And some times it makes it thru customs and we get to enjoy...
> Vietnam has the best beef Jerky ive ever had and you cant buy it here...


OH GOD! That's horrible!


----------



## Clay259

I just responded and asked for a refund ASAP. I really need a monitor and still think that the catleap would be a great buy, but damn if it's not turning out to be a big headache.


----------



## Prox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> Yea, I'm gonna get a refund and buy from someone else. Does anyone know another seller worth trying?


I'd like an answer to this as well.


----------



## crunkosaur

hey guys, im interested in getting this monitor sometime in the near future. But I have a question about the tempered glass screen. Currently my monitor is facing a large window, and I get alot of glare because of how much light comes through my window. Will the glass screen be worse than my current monitor? Its a Samsung Syncmaster 2443BW. It has a matt black type screen.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> I just responded and asked for a refund ASAP. I really need a monitor and still think that the catleap would be a great buy, but damn if it's not turning out to be a big headache.


Check green sum dream seller etc ..


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Check green sum dream seller etc ..


Will do, thx


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crunkosaur*
> 
> hey guys, im interested in getting this monitor sometime in the near future. But I have a question about the tempered glass screen. Currently my monitor is facing a large window, and I get alot of glare because of how much light comes through my window. Will the glass screen be worse than my current monitor? Its a Samsung Syncmaster 2443BW. It has a matt black type screen.


Yes. Find a way to cut out the light (blinds? blankets?) or just move somewhere else.

Side note:
I cannot stomach spending extra ~$28-30 on Crossover for the better stand... But I want tempered glass... Catleap tempered is 300, so is the Shimian tempered. Or I can go without and save ten bucks if I get non tempered Shimian. Grr. MUST DECIDE!


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Yes. Find a way to cut out the light (blinds? blankets?) or just move somewhere else.
> Side note:
> I cannot stomach spending extra ~$28-30 on Crossover for the better stand... But I want tempered glass... Catleap tempered is 300, so is the Shimian tempered. Or I can go without and save ten bucks if I get non tempered Shimian. Grr. MUST DECIDE!


Why exactly are you so insistent on the tempered glass model?


----------



## KaielSu

Does anyone know what exactly the panel of the 2703 is? Still trying to get a definite answer on this.


----------



## BoredErica

Panel of the 2703 is same as the old model, I believe.

I want the tempered glass because I can control lighting in my room, and I think tempered glass looks way cooler. Personal opinion. Jury's out on whether tempered glass = more reflections. But either way, the display is going to be glossy.


----------



## wkstar

BOTH of my Tempered Glass screens are PERFECT ! ! from BCC
and they were $300.oo each shipped to my front door
Zero pixel or light bleed problems
The stand is nice and shiny. Since I do not have a trampoline in my room, they should Never tilt , wobbly or fall down
My Video card is a Nvidia 250 using $ 6.oo Monster Cables from Ebay during check-out I clicked 10 day free shipping and the cables came in 4 days


----------



## Prox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Yes. Find a way to cut out the light (blinds? blankets?) or just move somewhere else.
> Side note:
> I cannot stomach spending extra ~$28-30 on Crossover for the better stand... But I want tempered glass... Catleap tempered is 300, so is the Shimian tempered. Or I can go without and save ten bucks if I get non tempered Shimian. Grr. MUST DECIDE!


Tempered glass is where instead of the smooth matte surface you see on most LCDs it has a sheet of glass over it somewhat resembling an old CRT monitor right? Which model of the Catleap has this? The SE version?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prox*
> 
> Tempered glass is where instead of the smooth matte surface you see on most LCDs it has a sheet of glass over it somewhat resembling an old CRT monitor right? Which model of the Catleap has this? The SE version?


No matter what version of the Catleap you buy, it will already have a glass surface. I call it the glossy surface. The tempered glass version has an extra layer of glass over the whole front of the monitor, including the front of the bezel. The glossy surface does make a difference in the image, but the tempered glass is an aesthetic thing. The models with it will list 'tempered glass'. I think SE is without speakers. I'd recommend the version without rather than with.


----------



## PTCB

It seems like he might have cut and pasted the wrong one.

This section here:

"_Checking monitor is service for buyer.

And this is normal monitor.
This may have dead pixel.
(up tp 5 dead pixel, this is regarded as normal)

Our staff will check below condition.
1. function of monitor with compatible video card.
2. damage of monitor.
3. checking dead pixel
-we only check that this monitor has less than 5 dead pixel
If you want perfect pixel with reasonable price,
I recommend Potalion 2710QW with perfect pixel.
You can find this monitor in my store.

4. Checking serious light bleeding.
-All monitor may have any light bleeding.
Almost monitor may have light bleeding in black screen.
This is S-IPS wide angle screen.
According to view angle, light bleeding may happen.
This is normal.
So, we check only "Serious" Light Bleeding.

It takes 1~3 business days to check monitor.
Thanks_"

Have you enquired about it before assuming that he'll send you a non PP one? And then, go from there. They're pretty quick with the reply, at least, from my experience. There're two sides to every story. Like the bad batch green-sum recently had. ***** happens.

Good luck.


----------



## londonfire93

finally dual monitor setup


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Panel of the 2703 is same as the old model, I believe.
> I want the tempered glass because I can control lighting in my room, and I think tempered glass looks way cooler. *Personal opinion*. Jury's out on whether tempered glass = more reflections. But either way, the display is going to be glossy.


Very honest. That's all that matters.


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> For the guy that asked if you can scale down resolution on Catleap, I asked the question at http://www.overclockers.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7254880#post7254880 Last post.


Thanks!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> Thanks!


No problem.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah he just changed his way of thinking afew days ago...
> Buy one from somebody else..
> If i was paying a prem for a perfect pixel that means it is perfect no dead pixels...
> Before his normal panels were the 1-5 dead pixels... Now he is selling his perfect pixels as those... And his regular ones with up to 15 dead pixels...
> All the same prices as items before hand...
> Maybe he will see the light if he is not selling any..


That is not what I understood at all.







, I dont understand how you came up with that, did you even read it ?

He is saying, normal monitor up to 5 dead pixels, they do a free monitor testing service, if you ordered a "NON-pixel perfect" monitor and they fine up to five dead pixels on the screen during there FREE testing service, then it is a PASS.

If you are not willing to take that risk, then he is referring you to the cheapest "pixel perfect" monitor in his store. This covers pixels only (not backlight bleeding, yellow tints or other screen defects that are possible)

The NEW style monitor is the only one listed so far, that is up to 15 dead pixels (non-perfect pixel).

""_Checking monitor is service for buyer.

*And this is normal monitor*.
This may have dead pixel.
(up tp 5 dead pixel, this is regarded as normal)

Our staff will check below condition.
1. function of monitor with compatible video card.
2. damage of monitor.
3. checking dead pixel
-we only check that this monitor has less than 5 dead pixel
*If you want perfect pixel with reasonable price,
I recommend Potalion 2710QW with perfect pixel.*
You can find this monitor in my store.

4. Checking serious light bleeding.
-All monitor may have any light bleeding.
Almost monitor may have light bleeding in black screen.
This is S-IPS wide angle screen.
According to view angle, light bleeding may happen.
This is normal.
So, we check only "Serious" Light Bleeding."_


----------



## Symiir

So the tech report did a nice write up on these monitors. It seems the writer was seriously impressed with the monitors for the value, so I count that bumps up my confidence in these monitors a huge amount.
http://techreport.com/articles.x/23291/1


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Symiir*
> 
> So the tech report did a nice write up on these monitors. It seems the writer was seriously impressed with the monitors for the value, so I count that bumps up my confidence in these monitors a huge amount.
> http://techreport.com/articles.x/23291/1


It's a good option if you want high-quality for monitors at half the price. The only risk you run is getting a monitor that's not "perfect," which usually ends up being a headache, as you might imagine.


----------



## Prox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> No matter what version of the Catleap you buy, it will already have a glass surface. I call it the glossy surface. The tempered glass version has an extra layer of glass over the whole front of the monitor, including the front of the bezel. The glossy surface does make a difference in the image, but the tempered glass is an aesthetic thing. The models with it will list 'tempered glass'. I think SE is without speakers. I'd recommend the version without rather than with.


Thanks for the info. Can anyone confirm that all of them have the glass surface? If anyone knows which one has a glass screen without speakers, please feel free to enlighten me.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prox*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Can anyone confirm that all of them have the glass surface? If anyone knows which one has a glass screen without speakers, please feel free to enlighten me.


The 2703 LED version has a tempered glass screen without speakers. This is the version that I currently own.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prox*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Can anyone confirm that all of them have the glass surface? If anyone knows which one has a glass screen without speakers, please feel free to enlighten me.


Only the tempered glass one has the glass surface.

All of the Catleaps are glossy. The non-tempered glass ones are glossy but do not have a glass surface.


----------



## KaielSu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prox*
> 
> Thanks for the info. Can anyone confirm that all of them have the glass surface? If anyone knows which one has a glass screen without speakers, please feel free to enlighten me.


The Q270 SE with Glass has no speakers and an additional tempered glass layer over the screen.
The Q270 SE has no speakers and no tempered glass.

The 2703 has no speakers and an additional tempered glass layer over the screen.

Whatever version of the Q270 SE you're looking for on ebay, just scroll down in the particular listing you're looking at. It'll say whether it has glass or not.


----------



## BoredErica

As said, all are glossy; ones with tempered glass will be specifically stated. And yeah, to my knowledge SE means no speakers. I guess it stands for.. Speakers Excluded?


----------



## Woodrow

Apologies if this has been covered and the noob question, but is there any reason why this shouldn't work with my Gigabyte GV-R577UD-1GD Radeon HD 5770? A few of the sellers have a chart up saying that the 5770 isn't compatible. I'm not going to be running any games or graphically intensive applications.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Woodrow*
> 
> Apologies if this has been covered and the noob question, but is there any reason why this shouldn't work with my Gigabyte GV-R577UD-1GD Radeon HD 5770? A few of the sellers have a chart up saying that the 5770 isn't compatible. I'm not going to be running any games or graphically intensive applications.


There is no reason. My Catleap worked with my Sapphire HD 5770 just fine.


----------



## Woodrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> There is no reason. My Catleap worked with my Sapphire HD 5770 just fine.


Superb. Thanks for the heads up!
I didn't think it would be an issue, but several of the sellers have similar graphics stating these wouldn't work with the 5770 so I thought I'd check here for the real deal.


----------



## Bigbrag

I'm really ticked. I woke up this morning and went to use my computer and my catleap is not working. The screen light turn green and the screen displays an image for about 1 seccond then the light blinks red and the screen turns off and then starts the cycle again. I tried un plugging everything and holding down the power button to release all the power then pluggin back in and that didn't fix the problem. I rebooted the computer which didn't make a difference. It definantly appears to be a screen problem. I'm hoping it is my weltronics ac adapter. Anyone every have this problem with the screen cycling on and off? only display an image for second then the red light blinks twice?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I'm really ticked. I woke up this morning and went to use my computer and my catleap is not working. The screen light turn green and the screen displays an image for about 1 seccond then the light blinks red and the screen turns off and then starts the cycle again. I tried un plugging everything and holding down the power button to release all the power then pluggin back in and that didn't fix the problem. I rebooted the computer which didn't make a difference. It definantly appears to be a screen problem. I'm hoping it is my weltronics ac adapter. Anyone every have this problem with the screen cycling on and off? only display an image for second then the red light blinks twice?


Turn everything off... unplug the DVI cable from your PC and from your monitor. Then unplug the power adapter from the monitor... wait a few minutes then plug everything back in and power up everything... only happened to me once so far and that is what I did to make it work... good luck!


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> Turn everything off... unplug the DVI cable from your PC and from your monitor. Then unplug the power adapter from the monitor... wait a few minutes then plug everything back in and power up everything... only happened to me once so far and that is what I did to make it work... good luck!


Thanks for advice. I tried that twice now though and it still doesn't work. At one point the screen came on for a few seconds and i thought it was going to work but then it went back to the on and off cycle with the red light blinking twice as the screen turns off. If I hold the power button on the screen it will go into the regular off mode with the red light staying on. It just wont display a picture for more than a split second before turning off.


----------



## ziofranco

I'm a new member...I red enough about this monitor,it's very nice but some members (like Bigbrag) have a lot problem...
Not a reliable monitor?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Thanks for advice. I tried that twice now though and it still doesn't work. At one point the screen came on for a few seconds and i thought it was going to work but then it went back to the on and off cycle with the red light blinking twice as the screen turns off. If I hold the power button on the screen it will go into the regular off mode with the red light staying on. It just wont display a picture for more than a split second before turning off.


Man that sucks...

I hope it is a simple fix...

i feel kinda bad as being one of the people you sold one of your panels to when you had 3 of them.. now the only one you kept for yourself is having issues =/


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Man that sucks...
> I hope it is a simple fix...
> i feel kinda bad as being one of the people you sold one of your panels to when you had 3 of them.. now the only one you kept for yourself is having issues =/


Ya, I thought the same thing this morning lol. What are the chances that the only one I keep for myself burns up after selling my other two lol. I'm glad you guy's didn't get a bad panel or you'd be pissed at me though lol. It really sucks because i've been following these threads since I started and haven't seen somebody have a problem like this, especially after running the panel for a month or so. I will probably just have to order another ac adapter and hope that fixes the problem. Someone Pm me if you have a link to the one I need for this catleap. I'm a bit doubtful considering I keep my ac adapter well ventilated so it doesn't get hot and have my monitor set to go sleep if their is inactivity. I treat all my possesions like gold so I rarely have problems. Its frustrating when crap breaks for no reason.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Ya, I thought the same thing this morning lol. What are the chances that the only one I keep for myself burns up after selling my other two lol. I'm glad you guy's didn't get a bad panel or you'd be pissed at me though lol. It really sucks because i've been following these threads since I started and haven't seen somebody have a problem like this, especially after running the panel for a month or so. I will probably just have to order another ac adapter and hope that fixes the problem. Someone Pm me if you have a link to the one I need for this catleap. I'm a bit doubtful considering I keep my ac adapter well ventilated so it doesn't get hot and have my monitor set to go sleep if their is inactivity. I treat all my possesions like gold so I rarely have problems. Its frustrating when crap breaks for no reason.


Who did u buy them from?

Don't them come with 1 year warrantys?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> I'm a new member...I red enough about this monitor,it's very nice but some members (like Bigbrag) have a lot problem...
> Not a reliable monitor?


Sometimes there are problems with the monitor. Be assured though that those with problems are in the minority. If you end up in that minority, it sort of sucks.


----------



## Bigbrag

I got my monitors from Greensum. I purchases a single squaretrade warranty when I bought them, so if I can't fix the problem, squaretrade better come through or I'll raise hell with them.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I got my monitors from Greensum. I purchases a single squaretrade warranty when I bought them, so if I can't fix the problem, squaretrade better come through or I'll raise hell with them.


lol ill remember that if i have issues LOL..









Also in Greensums Ebay stuff it says they all have 1 year thru him.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Sometimes there are problems with the monitor. Be assured though that those with problems are in the minority. If you end up in that minority, it sort of sucks.


Ok,Achieva monitor has the same problem minority?

Yamakasi Multi model has HDMI.
With this connection built in vga (HD3000 sandy bridge) is compatible in 1920x1080 ?


----------



## Bigbrag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> lol ill remember that if i have issues LOL..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also in Greensums Ebay stuff it says they all have 1 year thru him.


Well thats good to know. I guess I will contact him. I noticed that when the monitor cycles on and off the green light on the power brick blinks off at the same time. The powerbrick could be shorting out or something. I'm guessing the brick is more likely to fail than the monitor. Maybe greensum will send me a free brick before I have to ship this thing back to him.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Well thats good to know. I guess I will contact him. I noticed that when the monitor cycles on and off the green light on the power brick blinks off at the same time. The powerbrick could be shorting out or something. I'm guessing the brick is more likely to fail than the monitor. Maybe greensum will send me a free brick before I have to ship this thing back to him.


LoL yeah see how it goes cause if i have any issues u will have to talk to Greensum for me


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Ok,Achieva monitor has the same problem minority?
> Yamakasi Multi model has HDMI.
> With this connection built in vga (HD3000 sandy bridge) is compatible in 1920x1080 ?


I would say that all of them have that same problem minority. It's essentially pick-and-choose at this point, based on your personal needs, and then hoping that you don't fit into that minority when you order it.

I believe the multi model will allow for that.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> I would say that all of them have that same problem minority. It's essentially pick-and-choose at this point, based on your personal needs, and then hoping that you don't fit into that minority when you order it.
> I believe the multi model will allow for that.


thank you for answer...better see Green-Sum?
Nobody in this forum has multi model in order to contact in PM?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> thank you for answer...better see Green-Sum?
> Nobody in this forum has multi model in order to contact in PM?


There's plenty of people you can contact: http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club#post_16652360

Yes, Green-Sum will be your only option. They are the only one on Ebay who sell the multi, as far as I know.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> There's plenty of people you can contact: http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club#post_16652360
> Yes, Green-Sum will be your only option. They are the only one on Ebay who sell the multi, as far as I know.


Good...I notice you have *Catleap Q270 Glass W/ Speakers*...therefore it's HDMI model?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Good...I notice you have *Catleap Q270 Glass W/ Speakers*...therefore it's HDMI model?


No, I have a 2703 LED Tempered glass model...it is not the HDMI model.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> No, I have a 2703 LED Tempered glass model...it is not the HDMI model.


Ok...I see just now your picture (and your brother







) in yours previous post
You place the monitor very close to position view









EDIT
I found nobody in that list with Multi model


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Ok,Achieva monitor has the same problem minority?
> Yamakasi Multi model has HDMI.
> With this connection built in vga (HD3000 sandy bridge) is compatible in 1920x1080 ?


I think so, GPU should do the scaling. Problem is for peeps playing PS3/etc on it.

I read from a poll that about 88% of people had no problems with their monitor whatsoever. About the same for all brands. Doesn't vary more than a percent.


----------



## Goliath83

Hi!

I have a problem with my Catleap. After every 20 sec i get the nvidia dsplay driver stop working. I have tryed a clean install of my drivers. What i think is strange is that I can use the monitor in Dual mode togheter with my old screen without problems at all.

So when i change it to single display mode the driver goes crazy. Also tryed different drivers.

Maby someone know what to do?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goliath83*
> 
> Hi!
> I have a problem with my Catleap. After every 20 sec i get the nvidia dsplay driver stop working. I have tryed a clean install of my drivers. What i think is strange is that I can use the monitor in Dual mode togheter with my old screen without problems at all.
> So when i change it to single display mode the driver goes crazy. Also tryed different drivers.
> Maby someone know what to do?


Never heard of this issue..

Maybe Uninstall the drivers and re install them?


----------



## Goliath83

That don't work. I already did that.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Goliath83*
> 
> That don't work. I already did that.


Give some system specs may help aswell


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> Runs fine at 67Hz, just don't like the idea of running it right on the edge in case it has some long term affect.
> I don't fancy sending it back to Korea if it breaks.


Just get the warranty from square trade. You can't even send these monitors back to korea if they break because they wont ship back to america. Square trade warranty was like $44 I think with the tax.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Just get the warranty from square trade. You can't even send these monitors back to korea if they break because they wont ship back to america. Square trade warranty was like $44 I think with the tax.


I have heard the better sellers BBC / Green Sum will pay return shipping on these panels.. depends on where u get it from..


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> I got my monitors from Greensum. I purchases a single squaretrade warranty when I bought them, so if I can't fix the problem, squaretrade better come through or I'll raise hell with them.


WOW! It sucks!... but you might be the first person to utilize the square trade warranty on this thread... please keep us updated!


----------



## cmdrdredd

Has anyone been able to find a reliable power brick that actually works with the catleaps? Assuming one does not want to use a brick that burns up lol?

That's really my main concern. Seems that most issues are related to power (in general). What do you say I simply leave it on 24/7? Honestly I haven't turned off my BenQ in about a year.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I have heard the better sellers BBC / Green Sum will pay return shipping on these panels.. depends on where u get it from..


Not a year after purchase if something goes wrong. We're not talking 14 days after purchase because those are ebay's rules.

I thought about not getting the square trade warranty but it was worth it in the end imho. Free shipping both ways to square trade if a problem arises and if they can't fix it, they give you a full refund of the purchase price (but not including the warranty cost). Win-win for peace of mind from an unknown company from 6000 miles away. I've had my catleap for 3 months now at 67hz however, no problems yet.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Not a year after purchase if something goes wrong. We're not talking 14 days after purchase because those are ebay's rules.
> I thought about not getting the square trade warranty but it was worth it in the end imho. Free shipping both ways to square trade if a problem arises and if they can't fix it, they give you a full refund of the purchase price (but not including the warranty cost). Win-win for peace of mind from an unknown company from 6000 miles away. I've had my catleap for 3 months now at 67hz however, no problems yet.


Dont think they been out more then a year yet.. to test that.. Will have to see How BigBrags stuff goes...

As i bought My Catleap from him.. So i cant get the auare trade warranty.. But if he put it on it while it was his.. He may be able to Handle the RMA process for me which gives me great Interest.


----------



## amshad0w

I ordered one off Ebay earlier this week, this is my first international Ebay purchase. So if I need to return it within 14 days would I need to cover the return shipping? Hasn't arrived yet and after seeing all these problem posts I'm starting to get a bit worried.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amshad0w*
> 
> I ordered one off Ebay earlier this week, this is my first international Ebay purchase. So if I need to return it within 14 days would I need to cover the return shipping? Hasn't arrived yet and after seeing all these problem posts I'm starting to get a bit worried.


Yes, you will have to cover return shipping. Best of luck with your monitor.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *amshad0w*
> 
> I ordered one off Ebay earlier this week, this is my first international Ebay purchase. So if I need to return it within 14 days would I need to cover the return shipping? Hasn't arrived yet and after seeing all these problem posts I'm starting to get a bit worried.


If it's DOA usually the seller will take care of shipping. Lets say it just won't turn on or has a screen that gives crazy artifacts, they will help you out most likely. It might not be as convenient as Amazon though.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> If it's DOA usually the seller will take care of shipping. Lets say it just won't turn on or has a screen that gives crazy artifacts, they will help you out most likely. It might not be as convenient as Amazon though.


Hey look who it is!! my Buddy from AnAndtech


----------



## halodude23

Hey guys, I just got my Yamakasi Catleap 2703 today and apparently it seems the left side is darker than the right side as in the right side is BRIGHT but the left side is like brownish....... Anyone experiencing the same problem as me or is there a fix to this?


----------



## hoangk20

Hey guys, I got my Catleap q270 thinking I could use it both as a computer monitor and for my ps3. I got the DVI-Dual to HDMI converter but it's not showing any pictures for me. I am using HD6970 for my computer.. Any ideas?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoangk20*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my Catleap q270 thinking I could use it both as a computer monitor and for my ps3. I got the DVI-Dual to HDMI converter but it's not showing any pictures for me. I am using HD6970 for my computer.. Any ideas?


I believe that because the Catleap has no scalar, by default it only shows its native resolution. While GPUs can fix this, your PS3 doesn't have a scalar, so you get no image.


----------



## TarballX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoangk20*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my Catleap q270 thinking I could use it both as a computer monitor and for my ps3. I got the DVI-Dual to HDMI converter but it's not showing any pictures for me. I am using HD6970 for my computer.. Any ideas?


Try running your PS3 at 720p. I've heard these monitors can accept 720p fine, just not 1080p.


----------



## gibonez

Just bought a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE from green-sum. I will post my experiences when it arrives sometime Monday or Tuesday.

Quick question about people who have bought from this seller. Do I need to purchase some kind of converter in order to power it up or do the cables come included ?


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibonez*
> 
> Just bought a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE from green-sum. I will post my experiences when it arrives sometime Monday or Tuesday.
> Quick question about people who have bought from this seller. Do I need to purchase some kind of converter in order to power it up or do the cables come included ?


I got the same one and it shipped out today I think. I got the shipment confirm email but as I am a little fuzzy on time zones I think it shipped thursday in Korea and wednesday here.


----------



## BoredErica

The sellers I've seen all sell with cables included.


----------



## NateZ28

So I got my Catleap. It works very well but has bad backlight bleed. Has anyone figured out what to do about it?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I got one, and I can't figure out how to get it to display a single desktop, I have 4 tiny little desktops that are each too small to see how to change the settings.

Any ideas?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoangk20*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my Catleap q270 thinking I could use it both as a computer monitor and for my ps3. I got the DVI-Dual to HDMI converter but it's not showing any pictures for me. I am using HD6970 for my computer.. Any ideas?


It may not work if these Catleaps' DVI-D ports are not HDCP compliant... plus DVI-D do not transmit audio...


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> So I got my Catleap. It works very well but has bad backlight bleed. Has anyone figured out what to do about it?


at best you can massage the plastic around the spots that bleed and it will help a bit at worst you live with it as is.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I got one, and I can't figure out how to get it to display a single desktop, I have 4 tiny little desktops that are each too small to see how to change the settings.
> Any ideas?


Try a new cable? Sometimes the ones that come in the box are low quality.


----------



## mahiv87

Oh boy, that Catleap SE White edition would look great next to my 600t SE!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> at best you can massage the plastic around the spots that bleed and it will help a bit at worst you live with it as is.
> Try a new cable? Sometimes the ones that come in the box are low quality.










Hai


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> So I got my Catleap. It works very well but has bad backlight bleed. Has anyone figured out what to do about it?


I've read someone said to loosen the screws if the bezel is screwed on too tight - not sure if it work and don't know if it may void warranty.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> Try a new cable? Sometimes the ones that come in the box are low quality.


I was using the one off the monitor I was running just before I hooked the Catleap up, the stocker is still in the bag.


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> So I got my Catleap. It works very well but has bad backlight bleed. Has anyone figured out what to do about it?


Yeah ,, turn down the brightness


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I was using the one off the monitor I was running just before I hooked the Catleap up, the stocker is still in the bag.


You need a Dual-Link cable like the one that came in the box,,, Your old single link cable is not for the new screens


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> You need a Dual-Link cable like the one that came in the box,,, Your old single link cable is not for the new screens


lol face palm ..

Yeah make sure your useing DL DVI

The 24AwG from Mono Price vs the stocker.. Changeing cables has made my gaming very smooth now..


----------



## BoredErica

I don't see how a cable like that could make such a big difference though. Feels more like, it'll either work or not work. I'm planning to use the cables that come with the Catleap, provided they work and are long enough.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I don't see how a cable like that could make such a big difference though. Feels more like, it'll either work or not work. I'm planning to use the cables that come with the Catleap, provided they work and are long enough.


Better signal = better performance.. I had some imput lag while gaming with the cheapo stock cable.. I have 0 now.... Feels like my Dell U2711 now... WHich had a HQ cable.

It's 10$ and prolly the most important purchase after getting the monitor u can make for it..

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Yeah ,, turn down the brightness


It is turned down. I'm going to take pictures but the backlight is basically making an upside down V shape at the top. When I push on the top plastic of the bezel I can change the amount of bleed.
So something isn't tight enough around the panel and the backlight.


----------



## jpdaballa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Better signal = better performance.. I had some imput lag while gaming with the cheapo stock cable.. I have 0 now.... Feels like my Dell U2711 now... WHich had a HQ cable.
> It's 10$ and prolly the most important purchase after getting the monitor u can make for it..
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209


which one specifically in the link you provided are you using?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jpdaballa*
> 
> which one specifically in the link you provided are you using?


The 24 AWG.. but the 28 should be fine.. But for afew extra bucks i think getting the 6ft 24AWG is worth it imo. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


----------



## jpdaballa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> The 24 AWG.. but the 28 should be fine.. But for afew extra bucks i think getting the 6ft 24AWG is worth it imo. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=2


thanks!

quick question does anyone know if the new pcb models that are going to be released in the near future are able to reach 100-120mhz (with out without OC)? for the catleap


----------



## BoredErica

Ahh, I see. Lower AWG = lower gauge = thicker cables! I hope they provide free shipping, otherwise I'd be tempted to buy from Newegg.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Better signal = better performance.. I had some imput lag while gaming with the cheapo stock cable.. I have 0 now.... Feels like my Dell U2711 now... WHich had a HQ cable.
> It's 10$ and prolly the most important purchase after getting the monitor u can make for it..
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209


Placebo effect. You want to believe that you spent $10 for good reason so you do. These are digital cables, not analog. Keep that in mind. You get a signal or you do not. I did change my stock cable to a $17 one from amazon and saw no difference in picture quality or gaming, etc. I changed it because i needed a 10' cable, the 6' one was too short


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> Hey guys, I just got my Yamakasi Catleap 2703 today and apparently it seems the left side is darker than the right side as in the right side is BRIGHT but the left side is like brownish....... Anyone experiencing the same problem as me or is there a fix to this?


This is normal. This is a flaw with catleaps. I solution i've found is that at a certain brightness it goes away or equals out. Something like 9 clicks from 0. I find this to be too bright for windows use so I just deal with it. In games I turn the brightness up on the monitor and can't tell any differences between the right and left.

This is simply what you get with an A- panel versus a dell A+ panel.


----------



## BoredErica

I wonder if the same happens with the Shimians? They are same price as Catleaps. (The type I want for Shimians anyways.)

I might need a cable longer than 6 feet anyways though, so might end up buying it regardless. I'm willing to spend an extra $1-2 for a thick cable.


----------



## revlisoft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> Oh well, I'm still gonna have a bad ass monitor at a good price. I'm really hoping that this thing displays a beautiful picture. I've never even seen an IPS monitor so I really don't know what to expect. However, from what I've read, they are stunning.


If you have the new iPad (aka iPad 3) then that is using an IPS display.

http://www.macworld.com/article/1146028/inplaneswitching.html


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> You need a Dual-Link cable like the one that came in the box,,, Your old single link cable is not for the new screens


Well bend me over. The cable I was using was right out of a bag of a new monitor, but just a u2412M Dell. And sure enough, it wasn't dual.

But on the bright side, it's a 2B and already went through the OC business and got it up the the 82Hz limit of the GPU drivers I have loaded.


----------



## KaielSu

According to TFT Central, the LG IPS panels our beloved Catleaps use are actually... H-IPS PANELS!!! (LG LM270WQ1)

Interestingly enough, the Dell Ultrasharp U2711 is also listed as using an H-IPS panel, the LG LM270WQ2.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/panelsearch.htm
Type "catleap" and "2711" and you shall see.

HAVE WE BEEN LIED TO ALL THIS TIME? (not saying that H-IPS is worse or better than S-IPS.)

edit: typing "imac 27" reveals the Thunderbolt displays use LG's LM270WQ1-SDA2 panel


----------



## BoredErica

I gotta find out what the difference between those IPS are.

Comparing Ipad to a Catleap isn't that good of a comparison IMO. Catleap is way larger, the experience will be different.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Placebo effect. You want to believe that you spent $10 for good reason so you do. These are digital cables, not analog. Keep that in mind. You get a signal or you do not. I did change my stock cable to a $17 one from amazon and saw no difference in picture quality or gaming, etc. I changed it because i needed a 10' cable, the 6' one was too short


Maybe for you but my own results differ.






The cables that come with the catleaps are cheap.. And may be some of the reasons people are getting issues with there panels..

10$ for one of these and the worry is gone..


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hoangk20*
> 
> Hey guys, I got my Catleap q270 thinking I could use it both as a computer monitor and for my ps3. I got the DVI-Dual to HDMI converter but it's not showing any pictures for me. I am using HD6970 for my computer.. Any ideas?


Is your monitor multi model with HDMI also?


----------



## Goliath83

This is running on a Geforce GTX460, Windows 7, Nvidia 301.42-desktop-win7-winvista-64bit-english-whql driver,
It might be somthing with the graphic card? It's so strange that it work so nice with dual moditor. My old screen work perfectly when i turn it to single.

Maby i should try to get another GF card to test it on? Or another computer? To see if the problem still are there?


----------



## Demonz

Can somone find me a high qaulity Dual link DVI-D Cable for this monitor please? looked at the one from monoprice but $35 for shipping to the UK i don't think so









is this cable good for the monitor? http://www.cabledepot.co.uk/dvid-dvid-dual-link-cable-p-717.html


----------



## Bigbrag

Well Greensum responded to my email and wants me to check the voltage on my ac adapter to see if it is stable and to take a picture of the monitors box, monitor, and ac adapter. Do I check the voltage with a voltmeter? I don't currently have one. What's the best place to buy a cheap one that can check 24v? Harbor freight?


----------



## Demonz

Just got my monitor, purchased from Green-Sum

Absolutely perfect working conditions, i frciking love this thing! Picture quality it fantastic, and gaming on it looks absolutely amazing!

If your on the edge of buying this beast, i'd tell you too purchase one straight away, it's a noticable difference from your old crappy TN panel!

My monitor came with no dead pixels, no back light bleed nothing! perfect working condition!







( Thank god! )

Here is a picture of the box it came in










And here is the beast next to my old Syncmaster P2270HD ( The picture really doesn't do this screen any justice, but trust me it's amazing! )


----------



## Mkilbride

THese monitors are amazing!

The panels, that is, the LG S-IPS panels, 8bit that these all use.

They look absolutely stunning.

The backlight bleed is my only issue. I hope my next one to have none or next to none, because it's so very noticable.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Well Greensum responded to my email and wants me to check the voltage on my ac adapter to see if it is stable and to take a picture of the monitors box, monitor, and ac adapter. Do I check the voltage with a voltmeter? I don't currently have one. What's the best place to buy a cheap one that can check 24v? Harbor freight?


Yes,you have to try with a DC voltmeter with no load and with load
The test with load it's hard to try...there's no posssible to connect to contact


----------



## Demonz

anyone got any great wallpapers to help show off this amazing screen?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Well Greensum responded to my email and wants me to check the voltage on my ac adapter to see if it is stable and to take a picture of the monitors box, monitor, and ac adapter. Do I check the voltage with a voltmeter? I don't currently have one. What's the best place to buy a cheap one that can check 24v? Harbor freight?


You should be able to get a cheap multi meter from a hardware store/radio shack/maplins. Cost about $10, £8, €10

They will do a wide range of AC and DC voltages and amps.

Will look like this



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> anyone got any great wallpapers to help show off this amazing screen?


http://lmgtfy.com/?q=2560+x+1440+wallpaper


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Well Greensum responded to my email and wants me to check the voltage on my ac adapter to see if it is stable and to take a picture of the monitors box, monitor, and ac adapter. Do I check the voltage with a voltmeter? I don't currently have one. What's the best place to buy a cheap one that can check 24v? Harbor freight?


Yeah harbor freight sells one for around $8 that will work fine. I have about 10 of them now cause somwtimes they give them away when you buy something else.


----------



## halodude23

Hey guys, one part of my screen is darker than the other, is there a fix? Thanks!
I have the YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2703


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demonz*
> 
> anyone got any great wallpapers to help show off this amazing screen?


Go to interfacelift.com. Essentially, any nature wallpaper with lots of colors will do this monitor good, IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> Hey guys, one part of my screen is darker than the other, is there a fix? Thanks!
> I have the YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2703


I'd take a picture.


----------



## halodude23




----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *halodude23*
> 
> snip


Quite honestly, that doesn't look that bad. Maybe it's worse in real life. Also, why is it backwards?


----------



## Hamy144

Can someone test if one of these will work with a 2011 macbook pro?
And what adapters will i need for it


----------



## halodude23

Well it's noticeable, I used a WEBCAM without the software so it seems mirrored.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Can someone test if one of these will work with a 2011 macbook pro?
> And what adapters will i need for it


No, it is not compatible, in any way.

This is stated on all the pages and sellers pages.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> No, it is not compatible, in any way.
> This is stated on all the pages and sellers pages.


I think until someone has tried it we cannot dismiss it


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I think until someone has tried it we cannot dismiss it


Several users in this thread have tried it.

THAT is why it is on the sellers page. It was not, previously, until a handful of users here and on other tech forums, could not get it to work, no matter what they used.

So then the sellers added it to their page to get rid of people returning it for that reason.


----------



## KaielSu

Welp, it seems like a lot of 2703 owners have complained about one side of the monitor being darker than the other... a bit of a detriment on my quest to buy one.

However... there might be hope.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> This is normal. This is a flaw with catleaps. I solution i've found is that at a certain brightness it goes away or equals out. Something like 9 clicks from 0. I find this to be too bright for windows use so I just deal with it. In games I turn the brightness up on the monitor and can't tell any differences between the right and left.
> This is simply what you get with an A- panel versus a dell A+ panel.


Has anyone else tried this and can confirm that this works?
Also, could it be just an issue of breaking it in?


----------



## wkstar

Both of my 2703 have Perfect lighting

Where does KaielSu get his Info


----------



## Mkilbride

Here is another one from 10 feet back and zoomed in - as another user alerted to me is the proper method to identify true backlight bleeding.

Here you go.



Some other shots:

Hello me









Shot at 2012-07-27

Gaming:









Shot at 2012-07-27









Shot at 2012-07-27









Shot at 2012-07-27
Really blurry and I'm sorry for that, but while the image itself is fine, as you can see on all the pictures, that is how it actually looks in the 4 corners. =If this is IPS glow, I am done with IPS.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Here is another one from 10 feet back and zoomed in - as another user alerted to me is the proper method to identify true backlight bleeding.
> Here you go.
> 
> Some other shots:
> Hello me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> Gaming:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Shot at 2012-07-27
> Really blurry and I'm sorry for that, but while the image itself is fine, as you can see on all the pictures, that is how it actually looks in the 4 corners. =If this is IPS glow, I am done with IPS.


Thats some of the worst IPS bleeding ive seen..

I know Taking pictures makes it worse..

Loosen screws around panel a lil maybe? Game with the light on?

I can tell u this me being 29 and gaming with the light off for years i can barely see anymore... So please cut a light on while ur gaming so u dont have to be half blind..


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Thats some of the worst IPS bleeding ive seen..
> I know Taking pictures makes it worse..
> Loosen screws around panel a lil maybe? Game with the light on?
> I can tell u this me being 29 and gaming with the light off for years i can barely see anymore... So please cut a light on while ur gaming so u dont have to be half blind..


Gaming in the dark is the best.

But even if I game with the light on, I can notice the bleeding very easily.

The camera makes it worse, indeed, but not by much.

It's only one level down from that picture in terms of visibility.

I wonder; if Accessorieswhole, when I return this, if I can ask her to check for serious backlight bleed?

If not, I'm going to ask for a refund, if she'll allow it. Then, well, I'm screwed. Accessorieswhole is the only one on Amazon. And Paypal has me blocked until I give them a passport for some reason, though they have my ID, a copy of it, everything to confirm I live here, they still limit my access.

So Accessorieswhole, being the official licensed dealer of these monitors...is my only option and this one is almost a damn year old, based on the manufacturing date.


----------



## joeh1974

Does anyone know if DVI-D splitters work? I just bought a HD7950, and it only has one DVI-D output. Is it possible to use a splitter to connect up more than one of these instead of an active DP to DVI converter?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> Does anyone know if DVI-D splitters work? I just bought a HD7950, and it only has one DVI-D output. Is it possible to use a splitter to connect up more than one of these instead of an active DP to DVI converter?


Nope. Not with these monitors, very basic.


----------



## KaielSu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Both of my 2703 have Perfect lighting
> Where does KaielSu get his Info


He got his info from this thread.


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Nope. Not with these monitors, very basic.


OK, thanks!


----------



## BoulderAndrew

HEELLPP...

I have searched the thread, and I don't see anything pertaining to my particular issue.

I purchased a Crossover Q27 from Green-sum, and it showed up in short order. Box in great condition etc. Connected it to my 2006 Mac Pro desktop (Video Card = NVidia GeForce 8800 GT) , solid green light, nothing. No picture, just the backlight...

Reconnected my Dell 24" monitor and everything was fine, EXCEPT for some reason all the folders and icons were stacked in the upper left corner of the monitor.

I went on to test this with a Hackintosh with the approved video card (AMD Radeon HD 6870 1024 MB graphics) - same result.

Tested it with a different Hackintosh running Windows but the same video card. - same result.

So I returned it to Green-sum (although that process was somewhat painful).

In any case, I was certain that I just got the one in ten thousand bad monitors. (Green-sum confirmed that they found the monitor to be bad also).

So I had them send out a new one, and they *told me* they fully tested it prior to shipping...

Guess what??? I *just* connected the replacement monitor with EXACTLY the same result (to the Hackintosh running the AMD 6870). If anyone has any thoughts on this I am really pulling my hair out!!

Is there something I am doing wrong?

Could hooking my Hackintosh up to the monitor fail it?

Thanks for any help.

BoulderAndrew


----------



## Onions

u using the included cable?
did you try a new cable thats teh right kind


----------



## BoulderAndrew

Dear Onions,

I am virtually certain I was using the proper cable, but I did as you said and used the one in the box, along with ACTUALLY reading the directions (by the way there were no directions in the first monitor box). And I also made sure to line up the power cable with the arrow against the back of the machine. The latter may have been the issue as I don't think the indent on the outer sleeve and female on the monitor were aligned similarly to the arrow and the back of the monitor... Not sure which was the issue, but suffice it to say, it is working like a champ now.

I apologize for being such a rube, but thanks for taking the time to write me to revisit cabling and power.

Good to go, and kind regards,

BoulderAndrew


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoulderAndrew*
> 
> HEELLPP...
> I have searched the thread, and I don't see anything pertaining to my particular issue.
> I purchased a Crossover Q27 from Green-sum, and it showed up in short order. Box in great condition etc. Connected it to my 2006 Mac Pro desktop (Video Card = NVidia GeForce 8800 GT) , solid green light, nothing. No picture, just the backlight...
> Reconnected my Dell 24" monitor and everything was fine, EXCEPT for some reason all the folders and icons were stacked in the upper left corner of the monitor.
> I went on to test this with a Hackintosh with the approved video card (AMD Radeon HD 6870 1024 MB graphics) - same result.
> Tested it with a different Hackintosh running Windows but the same video card. - same result.
> So I returned it to Green-sum (although that process was somewhat painful).
> In any case, I was certain that I just got the one in ten thousand bad monitors. (Green-sum confirmed that they found the monitor to be bad also).
> So I had them send out a new one, and they *told me* they fully tested it prior to shipping...
> Guess what??? I *just* connected the replacement monitor with EXACTLY the same result (to the Hackintosh running the AMD 6870). If anyone has any thoughts on this I am really pulling my hair out!!
> Is there something I am doing wrong?
> Could hooking my Hackintosh up to the monitor fail it?
> Thanks for any help.
> BoulderAndrew


Sorry man can't talk about hackintosh stuff here.

http://www.overclock.net/t/560150/hackintosh-osx86-discussions-forbidden-you-are-warned

That's probably why you didn't see anything related to your issue. Both of those cards will run this monitor fine, but I wouldn't know with your particular setup.


----------



## NateZ28

Ahhh page 666! lol
But could someone take a pic of a Catleap with no backlight bleed? I'm trying to decide if I should take this sucker apart and try to fix mine.


----------



## thisisvv

I have the following motherboard

http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M5A88-M-6Gbps-Micro-Motherboards/dp/tech-data/B0053YM6QY/ref=de_a_smtd

it has

ATI Radeon HD 4250...

can i use this Monitor with it.....??

Thanks for all the help

V


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thisisvv*
> 
> I have the following motherboard
> http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M5A88-M-6Gbps-Micro-Motherboards/dp/tech-data/B0053YM6QY/ref=de_a_smtd
> it has
> ATI Radeon HD 4250...
> can i use this Monitor with it.....??
> Thanks for all the help
> V


According to Asus it is a dual link dvi so it will work. Just don't expect to play games on it.


----------



## ziofranco

Better buy a pixel zero or is an expensive useless?


----------



## plum

Perfect pixel is a scam, you can still have bad pixels... seen it happen before. Anyway, even if you do get some bad pixels... unless you go out of your way to find them, you're not going to see them out of the other 3.38million pixels. This panel has very good pixel density, so they're very small.

Ask anyone who owns one, they would trade bad pixels anytime of the week for good backlight. That's what you're gambling here, not the amount of bad pixels IMO


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Perfect pixel is a scam, you can still have bad pixels... seen it happen before. Anyway, even if you do get some bad pixels... unless you go out of your way to find them, you're not going to see them out of the other 3.38million pixels. This panel has very good pixel density, so they're very small.
> Ask anyone who owns one, they would trade bad pixels anytime of the week for good backlight. That's what you're gambling here, not the amount of bad pixels IMO


Ok, I wrote to green sum if guaranted pixel zero,otherwise I will buy a normal monitor cheapest


----------



## lenn0x

HI guys,

Ive been monitoring this thread for a while and decided 2 pull the trigger on one of these. I ended up ordering the 2703 from bigclothcraft and everything has been great. Very fast shipment, it was packed very well and he inspected the monitor before shipping. If anyone has any questions about this newer model il try to help out in any way I can.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lenn0x*
> 
> HI guys,
> Ive been monitoring this thread for a while and decided 2 pull the trigger on one of these. I ended up ordering the 2703 from bigclothcraft and everything has been great. Very fast shipment, it was packed very well and he inspected the monitor before shipping. If anyone has any questions about this newer model il try to help out in any way I can.


How much do you pay fees?
How the seller declare the monitor?


----------



## NateZ28

Guess no one is going to try to help me with my backlight problem. But what's a cheap stand you guys recommend?
The one that came with it makes the screen too tall and above eye level.


----------



## Scorpion49

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a white catleap... anyone have one of those? It looks really nice, and I'm willing to risk a few dead pixels for the price.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Guess no one is going to try to help me with my backlight problem. But what's a cheap stand you guys recommend?
> The one that came with it makes the screen too tall and above eye level.


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16848021346

Good stand I looked at.

As for your backlight problem, you can't really fix it home. There are methods to make it a little better, but it's best to return it.


----------



## gibonez

Quote:


> I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a white catleap... anyone have one of those? It looks really nice, and I'm willing to risk a few dead pixels for the price.


I just bought a white catleap last night will post impressions when I receive it Monday.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibonez*
> 
> I just bought a white catleap last night will post impressions when I receive it Monday.


Last night? Where did you order it from to get it that fast? All of the ones I see are going to take a week or two at least.


----------



## gibonez

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Last night? Where did you order it from to get it that fast? All of the ones I see are going to take a week or two at least.


Bought it from a seller called green-sum.

I cannot recommend him yet as I have yet to even receive the monitor yet.


----------



## amshad0w

Just set mine up, all pixels accounted for as far as I can tell. Minimal light bleed, not even an issue to me. The one thing I'm worried about though is the power brick. Runs pretty hot. Is that normal? I've got it sitting on top of my Antec 300 right above the top fan, seems to alleviate the heat problem a little. Overall I'm super impressed.


----------



## thisisvv

I am just gonna use for some charting software thats all....love the real estate on this though....


----------



## bigmac11

I know 45329 posts ago someone mentioned using suntan lotion or something to remove the insigna on the monitor. Can someone refresh my memory


----------



## praxis248

Hey guys,

I ordered a Catleap Q270 from bigclothcraft / BCC Thursday afternoon using eBay/PayPal guest checkout. I declined the option to make an eBay account as I don't plan to purchase from there often.

I received an eBay message from bigclothcraft asking customs questions, which I replied to. The reply-to address was an eBay forwarder. A few minutes later I received an e-mail from eBay saying the message couldn't be forwarded as I don't have a valid account since I used guest checkout. It did auto-generate me some gibberish username, which I can't use to login.

So I called eBay and asked them what's up... the rep was really nice and explained I would get that error since my eBay account doesn't really "exist" using guest checkout. He emailed me BCC's Hotmail address. I sent one Thursday night with the reply to his customs questions, but no reply. Today I sent another one asking if he received my first e-mail... still no reply. I'm confused since a lot of people have been raving about his good customer service (replies within minutes sometimes), yet I haven't received a response at all to my e-mails?

Meanwhile my credit card has already been charged by PayPal for the full amount.

Any advice? Does he take a while to respond to e-mail? Thanks!


----------



## wkstar

Open a Real Ebay & Paypal account and recontact.
I would never close the accounts Because your Ebay feedback is important as any credit rating

I get very nervous buying or selling with anyone with a feedback under 50


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Open a Real Ebay & Paypal account and recontact.
> I would never close the accounts Because your Ebay feedback is important as any credit rating
> I get very nervous buying or selling with anyone with a feedback under 50


My Ebay Feedback is like 48 and it is 100%.. but my account is pushing 12 years old...


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *praxis248*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Does he take a while to respond to e-mail? Thanks!


Not long for me, more like a few hours. Good luck.


----------



## ziofranco

And what about this?

New YAMAKASI Q271 LED 2560X1440WQHD S-IPS D-SUB/DVI-D Dual Link/HDMI1.4/AUDIO IN/AUDIO OUT. Link Monitor

HDMI 1.4a support 2560x1440 !


----------



## BoredErica

DVID only is the way to go IMO. No point in HDMI for my uses.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> And what about this?
> New YAMAKASI Q271 LED 2560X1440WQHD S-IPS D-SUB/DVI-D Dual Link/HDMI1.4/AUDIO IN/AUDIO OUT. Link Monitor
> HDMI 1.4a support 2560x1440 !


It doesn't work though.

Even though it's HDMI 1.4a - and technical specifications say it supports 2560 x 1440 - it won't work. Not with any monitor.

Internally limited, for some reason.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> It doesn't work though.
> Even though it's HDMI 1.4a - and technical specifications say it supports 2560 x 1440 - it won't work. Not with any monitor.
> Internally limited, for some reason.


----------



## eris19xx

I am also interested in this monitor and I do not really know if I should buy the 270 or the 271.
I am even wondering if the 271 its an upgraded version of the 270

Some one can give more explanation??

Thnsk


----------



## tkgw

I will be receiving my Q271 next week. So I will test HDMI on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> DVID only is the way to go IMO. No point in HDMI for my uses.


If everything you need is DVI-D, doesn't mean it's the way to go for people who need other inputs.


----------



## lenn0x

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> How much do you pay fees?
> How the seller declare the monitor?


I paid no fees, he asked me if he could mark it as a gift prior to shipment.

I paid no fees, he asked me if he could mark it as a gift prior to shipment.


----------



## eris19xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> I will be receiving my Q271 next week. So I will test HDMI on it.
> If everything you need is DVI-D, doesn't mean it's the way to go for people who need other inputs.


Can the q271 a better alternative on the 270 or I am just loose my money ?


----------



## tkgw

As far as I understand, it's exactly the same "multi" model just with a sturdier stand and added HDMI 1.4a functionality. It's up to you to decide whether you want to pay an extra for that or not. Also, so far I haven't seen any use reviews on this new model.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lenn0x*
> 
> I paid no fees, he asked me if he could mark it as a gift prior to shipment.
> I paid no fees, he asked me if he could mark it as a gift prior to shipment.


What a luck !
Somebody in Italy buy this monitor like a gift,but they equally pay fees


----------



## exhibitO

Hi guys, I bought this premium DVI Cable from newegg, turns out it didn't work. Does anyone have any idea why?

Or is it just DOA, i'm in the process of doing an RMA

Also, can someone tell me how to clean this bad boy? Getting some smudges


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Hi guys, I bought this premium DVI Cable from newegg, turns out it didn't work. Does anyone have any idea why?
> Or is it just DOA, i'm in the process of doing an RMA
> Also, can someone tell me how to clean this bad boy? Getting some smudges


Buy them from Monoprice.com


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*


False advertisement.

My box for my monitor says HDMI, SDIF, and HDTV.

Regardless, HDMI 1.3 supports 2560 x 1440p as well, but it doesn't work on the older multi-monitors for some reason, eh?


----------



## praxis248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Not long for me, more like a few hours. Good luck.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Open a Real Ebay & Paypal account and recontact.
> I would never close the accounts Because your Ebay feedback is important as any credit rating
> I get very nervous buying or selling with anyone with a feedback under 50


I made a real eBay account and message'd bigclothcraft with my PayPal receipt #. Hope he replies...


----------



## Scorpion49

I just went ahead and bought the White model from dream-seller... hopefully it arrives in good working order.


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> False advertisement.
> My box for my monitor says HDMI, SDIF, and HDTV.
> Regardless, HDMI 1.3 supports 2560 x 1440p as well, but it doesn't work on the older multi-monitors for some reason, eh?


The description of Q270 multi on ebay (I've checked one @ green-sum) says it supports maximum resolution of 1920 x 1080 via HDMI.


----------



## Mkilbride

Yes, but 1.3's technical specifications support 2560 x 1440 as well.
Quote:


> HDMI Version 1.3
> Introduced in 2006, HDMI 1.3 supports 2560x1440 HDTV resolution, 48-bit "deep color," the xvYCC color space and high-definition surround sound (TrueHD and DTS-HD). HDMI 1.3 also added cable categories: Category 1 cables are used for 720p and 1080i TVs, while Category 2 cables are required for 1080p TVs. See deep color and xvYCC.


And yet no display on the market that uses 1.3 will support 2560 x 1440, despite being able to.

So I assume it's the same with these 1.4a monitors, until I'm shown, otherwise by a professional or multiple user reviews.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> And what about this?
> New YAMAKASI Q271 LED 2560X1440WQHD S-IPS D-SUB/DVI-D Dual Link/HDMI1.4/AUDIO IN/AUDIO OUT. Link Monitor
> HDMI 1.4a support 2560x1440 !


Same screen, but has a lot of input lag.

*Notice*
For US buyers looking for quality DL-DVI cables be careful of those purchased online that come shipped in plastic bags with unknown branding. Many of them are made to the minimum standards out of china. Stick with the better cables available from Monoprice.com or The one shown in the OP. The Ultra Dual Link DVI-D cable is available from CompUSA or TigerDirect (locally or online) in 10ft length for $14.99. Part number U12-40513. Monoprice sells a 28awg cable for $7.71 with around $7 shipping. The product ID for 10ft at Monoprice.com is 2759. If you prefer a heavier cable there is a 24awg 10ft cable available on Monoprice.com for $12.92+shipping. Product ID is 2687.

I recommend paying the extra $5 for the known good cables. Over the $9.98 specials on amazon with free shipping.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> Same screen, but has a lot of input lag.


Just order Catleap Multi pixel zero...I'm waiting for further fees


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Just a reminder - ONE - read the OP before posting questions - it's easy! TWO - fill out the surveys for those that actually look at the first 2-3 posts to inform themselves of these monitors (I know, I know, most people just post a question before trying to find the answer on their own.)


----------



## balake777

Bought a Q270 SE 27" from green-sum with the Perfect pixel guarantee. Has one stuck green pixel in the middle. After e-mailing them the pictures, this is my response.

"Thank you for your photos.
BTW, we need to contact manufacturer on Monday first. Because With perfect pixel option, 0 dead pixel is allowed. Dark dot and stuck pixel is not handled as dead pixels. Bright dots only. Dark dot means the pixel that shows dark and cannot be found on black back ground. If the dot shows other colors it is bright dots.
We need to get confirmation from manufacturer based on the picture you sent. Could you wait a bit more? Thank you."

Hope they replace it! I will post back when they respond.


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> I just went ahead and bought the White model from dream-seller... hopefully it arrives in good working order.


I just ordered the white Q270 from dream-seller as well. I initially ordered from BCC, but he emailed me about 3 days later and stated that he was sold out of that particular model; he should have informed me way sooner as this delayed me getting my monitor a least a week if not more.

I, too, hope that the monitor arrives in good working order; another delay or defected product will discourage me from ordering these monitors again and, consequiently, cause me too leave all sorts of negative feedback.

I'm not bashing BCC; he was very nice and Courteous, but I just don't understand why his EBay store didn't state that that model was sold out. I ordered it last Sunday and just got my refund today; in wich I promptly re-ordered from dream-seller.

Anyway, I hope all goes well this time.


----------



## Clay259

I've noticed a lot of people on here are complaining about the stand being wobbley. Is it that bad. Should I look into getting a replacement? Anyone...


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> I've noticed a lot of people on here are complaining about the stand being wobbley. Is it that bad. Should I look into getting a replacement? Anyone...


Is wonky but not enought to fall over.
If you have a sturdy desk it will hardly move.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> I just ordered the white Q270 from dream-seller as well. I initially ordered from BCC, but he emailed me about 3 days later and stated that he was sold out of that particular model; he should have informed me way sooner as this delayed me getting my monitor a least a week if not more.
> I, too, hope that the monitor arrives in good working order; another delay or defected product will discourage me from ordering these monitors again and, consequiently, cause me too leave all sorts of negative feedback.
> I'm not bashing BCC; he was very nice and Courteous, but I just don't understand why his EBay store didn't state that that model was sold out. I ordered it last Sunday and just got my refund today; in wich I promptly re-ordered from dream-seller.
> Anyway, I hope all goes well this time.


Yeah, I was about to order from him but then I noticed the shipment date was like 3 weeks out so I went to the next highest rated seller. I'm excited for it, I like 2560x1440 (although I prefer 16:10) but the dell U2711 that I tried had such awful AG coating it made me sick to look at it.


----------



## BoredErica

Ordered Catleap from Green-Sum. Tempered glass, non-pixel perfect.


----------



## ezikiel12

Ordered a black catleap q270 non tempered glass on the 26th from bigclothcraft, still no word on whether it has shipped









laaaaaame.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezikiel12*
> 
> Ordered a black catleap q270 non tempered glass on the 26th from bigclothcraft, still no word on whether it has shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> laaaaaame.


Accessorieswhole shipped mine overnight.

Literally.

Monday: 5:36 PM my time, "Leaves warehouse"

Tuesday: 1:18 PM "Delivery attempt made"

I was sleeping! I had no idea it'd be overnight! The damn tracking number said Thursday, I thought maybe Wednesday at the earliest, but she does overnight! Less than 24 hours it was at my doorstep. I'd say that's damn fine shipping.

But it did say 200$ shipping on the item itself. It said "Customs / Shipping: 200$"

So the product is really only 200$ + 200$ shipping, lol.


----------



## Clay259

Yea, I've heard others complain about the AG coating on the higher end dells. Some are bothered by it and some aren't I guess. Personally, I would probably be annoyed by it as well and, moreover, couldn't justify the price; especially with the catleaps being priced so competively.

I can't wait for mine to arrive!


----------



## Clay259

Wow, that was fast. I hope that mine ships overnight.


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Ordered Catleap from Green-Sum. Tempered glass, non-pixel perfect.


What is the tempered glass version? Does it make the monitor less vibrant? When you say not pixel perfect, just how many dead pixels have you found?

Sorry for so many questions.


----------



## praxis248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezikiel12*
> 
> Ordered a black catleap q270 non tempered glass on the 26th from bigclothcraft, still no word on whether it has shipped
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> laaaaaame.


Yeah two days now without communication from him.. I also ordered on the 26th.

I should've ordered from elsewhere.


----------



## IronDoq

Ordered my Catleap Q270 from Green-Sum on Tuesday for $309 and got a tracking number the next day. Today, Saturday, the information says that it arrived in LAX early this morning. Fairly speedy shipping, I'll let you know how it is when it arrives Monday.

P.S. I would be extremely interested in updating my PCB in order to allow ~100+Hz. Keep us updated!


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Accessorieswhole shipped mine overnight.
> Literally.
> Monday: 5:36 PM my time, "Leaves warehouse"
> Tuesday: 1:18 PM "Delivery attempt made"
> I was sleeping! I had no idea it'd be overnight! The damn tracking number said Thursday, I thought maybe Wednesday at the earliest, but she does overnight! Less than 24 hours it was at my doorstep. I'd say that's damn fine shipping.
> But it did say 200$ shipping on the item itself. It said "Customs / Shipping: 200$"
> So the product is really only 200$ + 200$ shipping, lol.


Your on east coast ? thats amazing really. Korea to east coast one day ?


----------



## ezikiel12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Accessorieswhole shipped mine overnight.
> Literally.
> Monday: 5:36 PM my time, "Leaves warehouse"
> Tuesday: 1:18 PM "Delivery attempt made"
> I was sleeping! I had no idea it'd be overnight! The damn tracking number said Thursday, I thought maybe Wednesday at the earliest, but she does overnight! Less than 24 hours it was at my doorstep. I'd say that's damn fine shipping.
> But it did say 200$ shipping on the item itself. It said "Customs / Shipping: 200$"
> So the product is really only 200$ + 200$ shipping, lol.


My god. I'm quite annoyed. I even sent a message to him regarding a quick question I had. No answer in 2 days.. Thought this guy was good with communication and stuff. =/

Hopefully it was shipped and just hasn't had the tracking updated.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> What is the tempered glass version? Does it make the monitor less vibrant? When you say not pixel perfect, just how many dead pixels have you found?
> Sorry for so many questions.


I just ordered, I do not have the monitor yet; the policy for dead pixel varies based on seller. If you do decide to do pixel perfect, make sure to read their terms for "perfect".

Tempered glass has an extra sheet of glass over the whole monitor, over the front of the bezel too. It does NOT affect image quality, it is purely for looks.


----------



## praxis248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezikiel12*
> 
> My god. I'm quite annoyed. I even sent a message to him regarding a quick question I had. No answer in 2 days.. Thought this guy was good with communication and stuff. =/
> Hopefully it was shipped and just hasn't had the tracking updated.


I've tried:
His hotmail email
His gmail email
eBay PM

Nothing.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Your on east coast ? thats amazing really. Korea to east coast one day ?


They strap the monitor with bubble wrap a mile thick, and push it inside an awesome-propelled supersonic plane.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I just ordered, I do not have the monitor yet; the policy for dead pixel varies based on seller. If you do decide to do pixel perfect, make sure to read their terms for "perfect".
> Tempered glass has an extra sheet of glass over the whole monitor, over the front of the bezel too. It does NOT affect image quality, it is purely for looks.


Did you say to seller to declare the object?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Did you say to seller to declare the object?


I'm not sure what you mean.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean.


For places where the government steals your money they can either mark it as a gift or put the full price on it


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> For places where the government steals your money they can either mark it as a gift or put the full price on it


I heard for USA all they do is set it to be worth like $30 and I get no duties.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I'm not sure what you mean.


Sorry I'm Italian guy...
Seller got to set the worth of the monitor?
This for custom duty


----------



## TheDarkness

hi guys

this is the biggest thread about those monitors so i wanted to ask some questions before i spent nearly 300€ on ebay









1. will a 7770 work with the monitor ? (it has the required connections but iam not sure if its supported)
2. could i play battlefield 3 on low-medium with the 7770 at native resolution ? (all other games i play run fine with the 7770 but i cant find any benchmark of it running battlefield 3 at wqhd (only on max settings with like 9fps ...))
3. is there any difference between the q270 and the 2703 besides the stand and the tempered glass ? if not i would take the 2703 because its cheaper, has a shorter stand and i would get some kind of world wide universal adapter (i guess its for the power) as a gift with it
4. i still have a xbox360 to play splitscreen with some friends, is there any way to make it work with the dvi-d connection ? i heard its enough if i buy something like a hdmi to dvi-d adapter but iam not sure (cant afford the hdmi version)

hope you guys can answer those questions, this monitor would be a big upgrade compared to my 21 inch 1366x768 monitor (bought it for 40€ 1,5 years ago)


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Sorry I'm Italian guy...
> Seller got to set the worth of the monitor?
> This for custom duty


I just messages him on Ebay asking him to set the value low.
I'm (assuming) that since GreenSum has so many monitors sold he knows to set it to low value anyways. I think for USA the duties is small compared to other countries, anyways.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I heard for USA all they do is set it to be worth like $30 and I get no duties.


USA don't pay a penny no matter what you set the cost as due to the having some trading laws.

And for ziofranco you can have them mark it low enough so that they don't charge you I'm not sure about your country's laws.
But if it gets damaged in transit then you can only claim back what the price is marked at


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDarkness*
> 
> hi guys
> this is the biggest thread about those monitors so i wanted to ask some questions before i spent nearly 300€ on ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. will a 7770 work with the monitor ? (it has the required connections but iam not sure if its supported)
> 2. could i play battlefield 3 on low-medium with the 7770 at native resolution ? (all other games i play run fine with the 7770 but i cant find any benchmark of it running battlefield 3 at wqhd (only on max settings with like 9fps ...))
> 3. is there any difference between the q270 and the 2703 besides the stand and the tempered glass ? if not i would take the 2703 because its cheaper, has a shorter stand and i would get some kind of world wide universal adapter (i guess its for the power) as a gift with it
> 4. i still have a xbox360 to play splitscreen with some friends, is there any way to make it work with the dvi-d connection ? i heard its enough if i buy something like a hdmi to dvi-d adapter but iam not sure (cant afford the hdmi version)
> hope you guys can answer those questions, this monitor would be a big upgrade compared to my 21 inch 1366x768 monitor (bought it for 40€ 1,5 years ago)


1) Sellers on Ebay have lists of GPU that works with it. Make sure we're talking about desktop GPUs here, though.
2) Make sure you have plenty of memory on that GPU of yours.








3) I think there is tempered glass q270 as well. I believe BCC sells monitors with universal adapter free.
4) Not sure, but Catleap has no scaler. It will either not work or not work as well.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> USA don't pay a penny no matter what you set the cost as due to the having some trading laws.
> And for ziofranco you can have them mark it low enough so that they don't charge you I'm not sure about your country's laws.
> But if it gets damaged in transit then you can only claim back what the price is marked at


PRAISE THE FEDEX GODS!


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I just messages him on Ebay asking him to set the value low.
> I'm (assuming) that since GreenSum has so many monitors sold he knows to set it to low value anyways. I think for USA the duties is small compared to other countries, anyways.


Me too...but to set about €100,because the customs is not stupid









The seller doesn't answer anymore...in korea is 6:50 am sunday


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheDarkness*
> 
> hi guys
> this is the biggest thread about those monitors so i wanted to ask some questions before i spent nearly 300€ on ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 1. will a 7770 work with the monitor ? (it has the required connections but iam not sure if its supported)
> 2. could i play battlefield 3 on low-medium with the 7770 at native resolution ? (all other games i play run fine with the 7770 but i cant find any benchmark of it running battlefield 3 at wqhd (only on max settings with like 9fps ...))
> 3. is there any difference between the q270 and the 2703 besides the stand and the tempered glass ? if not i would take the 2703 because its cheaper, has a shorter stand and i would get some kind of world wide universal adapter (i guess its for the power) as a gift with it
> 4. i still have a xbox360 to play splitscreen with some friends, is there any way to make it work with the dvi-d connection ? i heard its enough if i buy something like a hdmi to dvi-d adapter but iam not sure (cant afford the hdmi version)
> hope you guys can answer those questions, this monitor would be a big upgrade compared to my 21 inch 1366x768 monitor (bought it for 40€ 1,5 years ago)


1&2. I've got a 7770 lying around I'll test it on Monday if you want.
3. It has up to 15 dead pixels from what I've read. Unless you get perfect pixel
4. Because it doesn't have a scaler it will look like poo and you might need the multi version to be able to use.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Me too...but to set about €100,because the customs is not stupid


I told BCC to mark mine as refurbished gift worth €70, had to pay €13 to DHL delivery driver (Germany)


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I told BCC to mark mine as refurbished gift worth €70, had to pay €13 to DHL delivery driver (Germany)


You've been lucky...I know Italian guys that paid €50 almost


----------



## knightmetro

I plan to order a Catleap next week but I have a final question.

There is the 2703 and the Q270.

My last question is which one has the best in clarity with a glossy surface?

Does the Q270 come WITHOUT the anti glare coating? Not a tempered glass version, but the coated glossy version.

I have an Apple 30" cinema HD and I'm tired of the "shimmer" from the AG coating. It's terrible! If they don't have a glossy coated Q270 I'll just order the 2703 with the tempered glass front. I've looked at the new Apple 27" with the same panel and the tempered glass and I love it, but I know that the glossy coating directly on the panel offers even more clarity.

Oh, and is BCC not the best to buy from anymore? I want to make sure I pick one up from the right person. I'd been leaning toward BCC this whole time.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knightmetro*
> 
> I plan to order a Catleap next week but I have a final question.
> There is the 2703 and the Q270.
> My last question is which one has the best in clarity with a glossy surface?
> Does the Q270 come WITHOUT the anti glare coating? Not a tempered glass version, but the coated glossy version.
> I have an Apple 30" cinema HD and I'm tired of the "shimmer" from the AG coating. It's terrible! If they don't have a glossy coated Q270 I'll just order the 2703 with the tempered glass front. I've looked at the new Apple 27" with the same panel and the tempered glass and I love it, but I know that the glossy coating directly on the panel offers even more clarity.
> Oh, and is BCC not the best to buy from anymore? I want to make sure I pick one up from the right person. I'd been leaning toward BCC this whole time.


Quality is same. I believe 2703 has a slightly better stand.
And no. All models have glossy.

Greensum or BBC FTW. REd-Cap, but he/she sells Crossovers primarily I believe.


----------



## knightmetro

Awesome! If they all have the glossy screen, then I'll get the Q270. I like the smaller uniform bezel around the Q270.

I'll be mounting three of these to a triple mount in the long run, so I don't have any worries about the stand.

BCC has the one I'm looking at with "best offer"

What's the best deal people are getting on these now?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Sorry I'm Italian guy...
> Seller got to set the worth of the monitor?
> This for custom duty


You can ask them to set the amount - many people have. Normally they set it low although people have reported getting theirs held up for an unreasonably low amount.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> USA don't pay a penny no matter what you set the cost as due to the having some trading laws.
> And for ziofranco you can have them mark it low enough so that they don't charge you I'm not sure about your country's laws.
> But if it gets damaged in transit then you can only claim back what the price is marked at


 Not entirely true. If the tariff code used is the wrong one you could get hit with 5% here in the US. This happened a couple of times, but by now all ebay sellers are aware of the proper code(s) to use to avoid a charge to US customers. Be careful with too low a figure, you might get that one overzealous customs guy who is looking for higher VATs to hit people with (again, this has happened several times.)


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> PRAISE THE FEDEX GODS!


LMAO!!!....


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> You can ask them to set the amount - many people have. Normally they set it low although people have reported getting theirs held up for an unreasonably low amount.
> 
> Not entirely true. If the tariff code used is the wrong one you could get hit with 5% here in the US. This happened a couple of times, but by now all ebay sellers are aware of the proper code(s) to use to avoid a charge to US customers. Be careful with too low a figure, you might get that one overzealous customs guy who is looking for higher VATs to hit people with (again, this has happened several times.)


I had the full amount put on mine not sure why but I got through free of customs charges, which are stupidly high over here.
I hadn't heard anything about tariff codes being wrong .


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I heard for USA all they do is set it to be worth like $30 and I get no duties.


Actually from Korea there is no taxes for consumer electronics. Nor from Japan as I have purchased many things from Japan in the past.

I think it depends on how it's marked when it's shipped. I've never had any taxes or fees.


----------



## BoredErica

Fun thing is, the monitor literally sells for the buying price; no duties, no shipping, no taxes.


----------



## TheDarkness

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> 1&2. I've got a 7770 lying around I'll test it on Monday if you want.
> 3. It has up to 15 dead pixels from what I've read. Unless you get perfect pixel
> 4. Because it doesn't have a scaler it will look like poo and you might need the multi version to be able to use.


1. i would appreciate it alot







(and even more if you could tell me which settings are possible in bf3







but doesnt matter as much as beeing sure its at least possible to play bf3 on lowest settings ) could you also try to get into the bios ? heard some people have problems with this monitor
3. both monitors have this service (death pixels arent a real issue, i have some on my old and i have to search for them to notice it) the real issue would be the backlight bleeding - but well, i could live with it - at least he checks for bad bleeding
4. well ... could be a problem, hoped i could play on it with some friends - but i guess you cant have everything (will have to use my old monitor) - if someone already tried post youre results, in the real world its sometimes different than in theory
*edit* i seen someone who told someone else it would work fine if the xbox is set to 720p with a hdmi-dvi adapter - hope not lost







i will try it when i get one of those monitors


----------



## BoredErica

If all fails, lower resolution via GPU for BF3. I will have to resort to that for Skyrim.


----------



## iARDAs

I am leaning towards the Yamakasi Catleap q270SE with perfect pixel

I am getting it from a top seller for 370$

What do you guys think? should i go for it?

I am using an Acer Gn245hQ at the moment. a 23 inch 120hz monitor.


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I am leaning towards the Yamakasi Catleap q270SE with perfect pixel
> 
> I am getting it from a top seller for 370$
> 
> What do you guys think? should i go for it?
> 
> I am using an Acer Gn245hQ at the moment. a 23 inch 120hz monitor.


Glad to hear you're getting one, but from what I understand the perfect pixel is a waste of money.
I'm sure others in here who have actually received there monitors from perfect piixel vendors are better qualified to give advice on this. However, many buyers who didn't pay for perfect pixel got perfect, and some who paid the extra received less than perfect..


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> Glad to hear you're getting one, but from what I understand the perfect pixel is a waste of money.
> I'm sure others in here who have actually received there monitors from perfect piixel vendors are better qualified to give advice on this. However, many buyers who didn't pay for perfect pixel got perfect, and some who paid the extra received less than perfect..


I got a perfect pixel from BCC at $374 it was the q270 model no tempered glass.
No dead pixels and minimal backlight bleed.


----------



## BoredErica

Redcap has 5 pixel guarantee. Any less and you can't tell since there're so many pixel anyways. Not worth the extra cash imo.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Clay259*
> 
> Glad to hear you're getting one, but from what I understand the perfect pixel is a waste of money.
> I'm sure others in here who have actually received there monitors from perfect piixel vendors are better qualified to give advice on this. However, many buyers who didn't pay for perfect pixel got perfect, and some who paid the extra received less than perfect..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I got a perfect pixel from BCC at $374 it was the q270 model no tempered glass.
> No dead pixels and minimal backlight bleed.


I found a dead pixel from a top seller with Achieva Shimian, at first I couldnt but now I did.

What is the difference between 2? They seem exactly the same thing. The achieva costs 330


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I found a dead pixel from a top seller with Achieva Shimian, at first I couldnt but now I did.
> 
> What is the difference between 2? They seem exactly the same thing. The achieva costs 330


There's alays a chance of a defective pixel unless the seller actually does check.
There is no difference except the stand and pcb. It's the exact same panel being used.


----------



## BoredErica

Achievia seems to have a slightly higher rate of malfunction based on one of the polls in this website. Catleap/Crossovers areound 88% perfect without problems, and Shimian at around 81-82%. Crossover has build quality to compensate for higher price. So I think this is why Shimian is cheaper.


----------



## iARDAs

So i finally ordered my Catleap 

When it arrives, will i just plug and play it? Do i need to install any calibration profiles? any custom drivers etc??


----------



## plum

Just plug and play


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So i finally ordered my Catleap
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When it arrives, will i just plug and play it? Do i need to install any calibration profiles? any custom drivers etc??


There are calibration profiles. They are available on the first page of this thread, directions included.
But yeah, use the cable, plug and play, that's my plan. I might turn on monitor, then computer. Cross fingers and legs and body.









How long do I give Green-Sum after he rated me as a "good buyer" before I get a tracking number?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Just plug and play


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> There are calibration profiles. They are available on the first page of this thread, directions included.
> But yeah, use the cable, plug and play, that's my plan. I might turn on monitor, then computer. Cross fingers and legs and body.


Good to know guys 

I hope i will get a good unit. Hopefully with 0 dead pixels ))

I am excited about the difference between 1080p and 1440p


----------



## BoredErica

I'm excited to move on from a 1440 x 900 TV to a 2560 x 1440 IPS monitor.









How long do I give Green-Sum after he rated me as a "good buyer" before I get a tracking number?


----------



## IronDoq

For me with Green-Sum, I bought it Tuesday this week and it shipped on Thursday. Bit of a delay and disappointment about not getting it this week and having to wait until Monday for it to arrive, as I won't even be home at all next week until Wednesday.







Anyhow, as I've seen many times the max refresh rate of the current batch seems to be 65-67Hz. Is getting to that refresh rate the same as if I were going to 100Hz, except I will be limited to a much lower value?


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I'm excited to move on from a 1440 x 900 TV to a 2560 x 1440 IPS monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long do I give Green-Sum after he rated me as a "good buyer" before I get a tracking number?


I ordered on tuesday, shipped on thursday and I got my tracking number then.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> I ordered on tuesday, shipped on thursday and I got my tracking number then.


That means you had it on your doorstep on Thursday and that's when you got the tracking number? Or did it start to ship on Thursday?


----------



## IronDoq

For me in the same situation, it was when it started to ship. It moved around Korea for two days, and today it arrived in LAX.


----------



## exhibitO

Can someone please tell me how to clean the screen?


----------



## PTCB

Mine left Korea within 24 hrs, took roughly 2 days to reach New Zealand via Hong Kong. But, I have not yet received my monitor due to the lazy ass local courier company, who don't do delivery on weekend. Even though, it's DHL express service. Stupid!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Good to know guys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope i will get a good unit. Hopefully with 0 dead pixels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ))
> 
> I am excited about the difference between 1080p and 1440p


Hey iARDAs, you and I have been in the same threads lately. Same interest. lol

BTW, did you get anything from your US trip?


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> That means you had it on your doorstep on Thursday and that's when you got the tracking number? Or did it start to ship on Thursday?


No, I was pretty clear. I ordered on tuesday, it shipped on thursday and that's when I got tracking info.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Can someone please tell me how to clean the screen?


Use a clean microfiber cloth and wipe it. That's all. In the off chance you get something on the panel you can use distilled water (not water from the sink) on a microfiber cloth. Then a dry microfiber cloth to wipe any water away. Do not use alcohol, any household cleaners, no glass cleaner, and I wouldn't bother buying special LCD cleaning solution.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> Use a clean microfiber cloth and wipe it. That's all. In the off chance you get something on the panel you can use distilled water (not water from the sink) on a microfiber cloth. Then a dry microfiber cloth to wipe any water away. Do not use alcohol, any household cleaners, no glass cleaner, and I wouldn't bother buying special LCD cleaning solution.


Where can I get distilled water?


----------



## cmdrdredd

Walmart, Target, Grocery stores. Even some pharmacies might have it. Costs about $1 for a gallon.

I don't know if you're in the US, but if not I'm sure any well stocked grocery story will have it.


----------



## exhibitO

is bottled water okay? says purified water on the label


----------



## BoredErica

I think it might have minerals in it for taste that isn't as good for the monitor, little similar to tap water.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> is bottled water okay? says purified water on the label


Darkwizzie is right. Normal drinking water has minerals and other things in it. Distilled water is basically water that is boiled off into vapor and that removes all the calcium and other minerals. Then the water vapor is condensed back into water again.


----------



## UNOE

distilled water is in every grocery store or drug store.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I'm excited to move on from a 1440 x 900 TV to a 2560 x 1440 IPS monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How long do I give Green-Sum after he rated me as a "good buyer" before I get a tracking number?


Me and you ordered Monitor in saturday(weekend)...so until tomorrow we don't get any answer for Green sun, or at least I think


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Me and you ordered Monitor in saturday(weekend)...so until tomorrow we don't get any answer for Green sun, or at least I think


In my time it was actually Friday afternoon.

I'll race you to see who gets the monitor first!


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> In my time it was actually Friday afternoon.
> I'll race you to see who gets the monitor first!


In my time Saturday afternoon...one day after








You paid but seller not answrered yet?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> In my time Saturday afternoon...one day after
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You paid but seller not answrered anymore?


I asked him a question on message on Ebay, he has not responded to my question. He has given me a good rating as a customer. Maybe because it's the weekend things will get screwed up, though.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I asked him a question on message on Ebay, he has not responded to my question. He has given me a good rating as a customer. Maybe because it's the weekend things will get screwed up, though.


Maybe in the weekend they are closed


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Maybe in the weekend they are closed


Maybe. I didn't see GreenSum say that they are, but I saw another merchant say they don't ship out on weekends. Who knows? Time will tell.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Maybe. I didn't see GreenSum say that they are, but I saw another merchant say they don't ship out on weekends. Who knows? Time will tell.


Mind that California friday afternoon coincides to Korea saturday morning


----------



## jpdaballa

To whoever ordered the white monitor, could you let us know how it turns out/ add some pictures please!

and to everyone else, i hope your monitors come in with minimal defects/perfect condition. Let us all pray...


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Mind that California friday afternoon coincides to Korea saturday morning


Winner gets a free beer! Deal?


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Winner gets a free beer! Deal?


Deal!


----------



## BoredErica

Actually, I'm underage. Haha.







(Quietly drinks apple juice instead)


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Actually, I'm underage. Haha.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (Quietly drinks apple juice instead)


So go to bed...it's too late!


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Mine left Korea within 24 hrs, took roughly 2 days to reach New Zealand via Hong Kong. But, I have not yet received my monitor due to the lazy ass local courier company, who don't do delivery on weekend. Even though, it's DHL express service. Stupid!
> Hey iARDAs, you and I have been in the same threads lately. Same interest. lol
> BTW, did you get anything from your US trip?


Hahaha we have similar tastes it seems 

I got half of my PC renewed from USA.

Asus Sabertooth Z77 motherbord

i5 3570k CPU

CM Storm QuickFire mechanical keyboard

Thermaltake Theron CPU

I would have purchased the GPU from USA too but i got a deal here in Turkey so I got a Gigabyte 670. I will maybe order my 2nd GPU few months later from USA though

And now I have purchased the Catleap monitor. My computer is extremely international at the moment


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> So go to bed...it's too late!


In a second.









And about the white Catleaps: The black ones are so much prettier IMO.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> In a second.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And about the white Catleaps: The black ones are so much prettier IMO.


The white ones look sexy but i believe they might be distractions while gaming.

Some people also claim that when you have white frames on a TV or anything like that, the contrast will not look as good as they do on black frames.

The only white frame I currently have is the ipad, though it looks sexy and cool i will go with a black frame next time.


----------



## iARDAs

I might mount my upcoming Catleap to the wall. At first I said not but now I might.

Could someone give me a link of a 100% compatible wall mounting thingy?


----------



## BoredErica

White kindda turns me off. The only white that's acceptable is the white on the back of the Crossovers. Not really a fan of Apple computers, etc either. Tempered glass + black is the way to go!!!


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> White kindda turns me off. The only white that's acceptable is the white on the back of the Crossovers. Not really a fan of Apple computers, etc either. Tempered glass + black is the way to go!!!


I actually had to go with the non tempered one. It later hit me that my room will be very sunny most of the times and when my wife uses the monitor she will not pull down the curtains so the tempered glass could be a bad experience for her. Otherwise I would also go with the tempered glas version


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Is it ok to use glass cleaner if you have a tempered glass model? I would assume yes. But want to be sure.

Also anyone running overclocked models run into any problems yet? Mine is running good for almost 6 months now.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Munchkinpuncher*
> 
> Is it ok to use glass cleaner if you have a tempered glass model? I would assume yes. But want to be sure.
> Also anyone running overclocked models run into any problems yet? Mine is running good for almost 6 months now.


I would think glass cleaner is ok! I have several running at 100+hz since Feb without issue so far.


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I would think glass cleaner is ok! I have several running at 100+hz since Feb without issue so far.


Good to hear! im still in love with it


----------



## weaveR

I just ordered the HDMI version of the screen - will give feedback once it arrives.


----------



## Mackem

So I'm looking at buying one of these monitors to the UK and was wondering if there is a model with more ports? Ideally, I'd like one with at least DVI, VGA and HDMI. Do any models like this exist and who would be best to buy from in terms of reliability, customer service and lowest customs fees (Do any of the sellers mark the items to the UK as being worth less than £36 for example to avoid customs charges altogether?)


----------



## Chrisbes

Yeah, wondering the same as Mackem. The DVI only version is currently going for £196.
Mackem, there is a multi version but it creates more latencty and is more expensive.


----------



## Jackylegs1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisbes*
> 
> Yeah, wondering the same as Mackem. The DVI only version is currently going for £196.
> Mackem, there is a multi version but it creates more latencty and is more expensive.


Im wondering it too, got a link to that £196 monitor?

This is the cheapest i could find.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150788045871?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231baafc2f

.. although it lets you make a 'best offer'


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> So I'm looking at buying one of these monitors to the UK and was wondering if there is a model with more ports? Ideally, I'd like one with at least DVI, VGA and HDMI. Do any models like this exist and who would be best to buy from in terms of reliability, customer service and lowest customs fees (Do any of the sellers mark the items to the UK as being worth less than £36 for example to avoid customs charges altogether?)


I'm not sure about customs, but I think the only ports any of these offer is HDMI and DVI and the one with both is a little more expensive than the DVI only. If you want more you're going to have to cough up for the real deal, AKA Dell u2711, ACD, HP ZR2740w, etc. These are just the leftover A- screens shoved in a cheap case, thats why the price is so good.


----------



## Chrisbes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackylegs1992*
> 
> Im wondering it too, got a link to that £196 monitor?
> This is the cheapest i could find.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150788045871?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231baafc2f
> .. although it lets you make a 'best offer'


http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-SE-27-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/120911008070?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c26db9146
or
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-SE-WHITE-27inch-IPS-WQHD-2560-x-1440-DIV-D-Dual-Link-/320934366681?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ab92dcdd9

The current exchange rate puts the first link (sold by Green-Sum) at £196.


----------



## Jackylegs1992

Cheers,

Do they not post out screens with more than five dead pixels?


----------



## cmdrdredd

If the tempered glass model has no coating on the glass it should be fine with glass cleaner. I would still avoid ammonia based cleaners personally.


----------



## Chrisbes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackylegs1992*
> 
> Cheers,
> Do they not post out screens with more than five dead pixels?


Don't think so. If it's got more or it's DOA I think it will be replaced.

Now to source £200 D:


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackylegs1992*
> 
> Cheers,
> Do they not post out screens with more than five dead pixels?


If I understand right, some sellers claim 5 or less dead pixels is considered good enough for "perfect pixel" and up to 15 is a normal one. Anything bunched around the center of the screen is bad.


----------



## Jackylegs1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisbes*
> 
> Don't think so. If it's got more or it's DOA I think it will be replaced.
> Now to source £200 D:


Dont forget customs charges!

I may ask him to mark it as £50 refurbished gift


----------



## Jackylegs1992

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> If I understand right, some sellers claim 5 or less dead pixels is considered good enough for "perfect pixel" and up to 15 is a normal one. Anything bunched around the center of the screen is bad.


in that case ill go for this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150788045871?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231baafc2f

I dont get the 'tempered glass' thing? does this mean theres a peice of glass infront of the monitor to protect it?


----------



## Chrisbes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> If I understand right, some sellers claim 5 or less dead pixels is considered good enough for "perfect pixel" and up to 15 is a normal one. Anything bunched around the center of the screen is bad.


Some sellers do, Green-Sum says 5 maximum on all of his.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackylegs1992*
> 
> Dont forget customs charges!
> I may ask him to mark it as £50 refurbished gift


I think he does that anyway. £40 VAT is quite a lot..


----------



## Jackylegs1992

Has anyone else had this problem?






12:12

He says the stand makes the screen balance un even


----------



## Hamy144

Yeah my catleap has a slight lean to the right only about a degree or two at most not enought to put me off, but if it puts you off get a stand you can find some cheap.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackylegs1992*
> 
> Has anyone else had this problem?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 12:12
> He says the stand makes the screen balance un even


I know it's almost 700 pages, but this was mentioned probably 50 times here. The OP even mentions a wobbly stand in the FAQ.


----------



## Mackem

I have the money for one it's just I can't have a monitor with only a DVI port, has to have at least a HDMI and a VGA if possible. If I can get a Catleap that fits the bill, I'll go for it but if not I'll just get the Asus PA238Q. I don't mind either way.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> I have the money for one it's just I can't have a monitor with only a DVI port, has to have at least a HDMI and a VGA if possible. If I can get a Catleap that fits the bill, I'll go for it but if not I'll just get the Asus PA238Q. I don't mind either way.


Search ebay for Catleap Multi. They cost more but will work for you.


----------



## Mackem

Apparently the multi version has higher input lag/response time or something?


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> Apparently the multi version has higher input lag/response time or something?


All monitors with multiple inputs have higher input lag by default. IPS will always be slower than TN.

The catleap would be 27" vs a 23" Asus with 2560x1440 vs 1920x1080 resolution. If you do gaming you may need to take that into account as 1440p is a bit more demanding.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mackem*
> 
> Apparently the multi version has higher input lag/response time or something?


Like cmdrdredd said, yes. The signal has some extra circuitry it has to go through. I believe the multi versions have an extra chip that resize the image for lower resolution images (basically, not native res) so it stretches and fits on the screen.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jackylegs1992*
> 
> in that case ill go for this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150788045871?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231baafc2f
> I dont get the 'tempered glass' thing? does this mean theres a peice of glass infront of the monitor to protect it?


Maybe ti'll protect it a tiny bit, but really, it's cosmetic in nature.

Greensum has responded to my messages. He said it'll take a bit since it's the weekend.


----------



## PurdueCIA

Hi just would like to say a few things about this amazing monitor. I purchased the catleap q270 w/o speaker in late April 2012, so it's close to 4 months of usage now. All I can say for the price I paid CAD $330 you just can't compare! Took some pics with the galaxy nexus camera, so it doesn't do justice to the amazing colors the monitor produces. I was some of the lucky ones to get the B version so I was able to OC'd it to ~100 Hz. No dead pixel and very low light bleed. Playing games in the WQHD resolution is amazing! BF3, Crysis 2, Just Cause 2, Bioshock 2 just wow! Now time to save and upgrade to nvidia 670.

For those who are looking for a very good monitor with limited budget, this is the one to have. Also hopefully you receive one that has zero pixel and very low light bleed. If you do, nothing can beat the PQ of this monitor. Cheers to other satisfied catleap owners!
BTW, checkout this site for some really cool WQHD wallpapers.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Maybe ti'll protect it a tiny bit, but really, it's cosmetic in nature.
> Greensum has responded to my messages. He said it'll take a bit since it's the weekend.


Me too!!! Please wait a bit more because it is weekend here








Wait for tracking


----------



## BoredErica

I can't wait for this lol. I wish I could change time or something.


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> Hi just would like to say a few things about this amazing monitor. I purchased the catleap q270 w/o speaker in late April 2012, so it's close to 4 months of usage now. All I can say for the price I paid CAD $330 you just can't compare! Took some pics with the galaxy nexus camera, so it doesn't do justice to the amazing colors the monitor produces. I was some of the lucky ones to get the B version so I was able to OC'd it to ~100 Hz. No dead pixel and very low light bleed. Playing games in the WQHD resolution is amazing! BF3, Crysis 2, Just Cause 2, Bioshock 2 just wow! Now time to save and upgrade to nvidia 670.
> For those who are looking for a very good monitor with limited budget, this is the one to have. Also hopefully you receive one that has zero pixel and very low light bleed. If you do, nothing can beat the PQ of this monitor. Cheers to other satisfied catleap owners!
> BTW, checkout this site for some really cool WQHD wallpapers.


WOW!!! Truly a gorgeous monitor.....I can't wait for mine to arrive


----------



## cmdrdredd

Mine arrived in Miami this morning, that's about 30miles from me so I should have it Tomorrow hopefully, unless DHL just drops me a notice that I wasn't home and I have to call them and go pick it up. Then it will be tuesday.


----------



## gtorz1136

Does anyone here have or has had both this monitor and a Dell U2312HM? If so, what are your thoughts of the two in comparison? I'm still undecided which monitor is a better value/more useful in a college dorm for gaming/movies/internet browsing, and the only thing really stopping me from leaping on the Korean IPS is the size (27" seems huge in comparison to my Laptop's 15" screen) and the build quality I've seen people talk about. Any perspective would be greatly appreciated!


----------



## BoredErica

It's an IPS that's a good resolution at 27 inches for $300. That should basically answer your question. If you want go Crossover with $35 premium for better build quality.


----------



## PurdueCIA

I have Dell U2311H (also IPS panel) and the matte screen kind of wash the colors out, but even if Dell were to use glossy screen on the U2311H it won't even match the LG's panel in this catleap. But for stand and the good look design, Dell wins hands down!

I used to hate glossy screen but boy...this catleap with its LED and IPS panel really works well with the glossy screen, colors really pop. The only concern is the quality of parts used on the catleap...I can only cross my fingers it would stay working long enough







hopefully until yamakasi starts selling monitor with LG/Samsung's OLED panel.
So far I've been using it on avg. 5 hours a day and close to 4 months now. I believe now some of the ebay sellers would include free return shipping fee if the monitor is not to your satisfaction (albeit they might charge more for this safe piece of mind feature)
Once you get the catleap, remove the crappy stand buy a good stand (monoprice has few of nice ones). For the price, if you are lucky to get a perfect panel, you can't beat this gem, I think this is one of the best purchase I did, for regular users you will not believe your eyes how gorgeous the colors are on this monitor. No wonder Apple and Dell selected this LG panel for their high end monitors.

Check out my photos gallery to see how incredible the colors are on this monitor!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PurdueCIA*
> 
> I have Dell U2311H (also IPS panel) and the matte screen kind of wash the colors out, but even if Dell were to use glossy screen on the U2311H it won't even match the LG's panel in this catleap. But for stand and the good look design, Dell wins hands down!
> I used to hate glossy screen but boy...this catleap with its LED and IPS panel really works well with the glossy screen, colors really pop. The only concern is the quality of parts used on the catleap...I can only cross my fingers it would stay working long enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hopefully until yamakasi starts selling monitor with LG/Samsung's OLED panel.
> So far I've been using it on avg. 5 hours a day and close to 4 months now. I believe now some of the ebay sellers would include free return shipping fee if the monitor is not to your satisfaction (albeit they might charge more for this safe piece of mind feature)
> Once you get the catleap, remove the crappy stand buy a good stand (monoprice has few of nice ones). For the price, if you are lucky to get a perfect panel, you can't beat this gem, I think this is one of the best purchase I did, for regular users you will not believe your eyes how gorgeous the colors are on this monitor. No wonder Apple and Dell selected this LG panel for their high end monitors.
> Check out my photos gallery to see how incredible the colors are on this monitor!


Or buy a Crossover with a good stand and better build quality.
The Dell isn't anywhere close to 27 inches, anyways.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Or buy a Crossover with a good stand and better build quality.
> The Dell isn't anywhere close to 27 inches, anyways.


It's worth the extra $100 if you care about build quality. If you're going to be like Vega and strip down to the bare panels, get the least expensive ones you can.


----------



## BoredErica

Last I checked it was an extra $35 o_o I went with the Catleap though.


----------



## Chrisbes

What are people doing to avoid the import tax/Vat?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chrisbes*
> 
> What are people doing to avoid the import tax/Vat?


Living in the US. And asking the seller to value the monitor to a low amount.


----------



## Chrisbes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Living in the US. And asking the seller to value the monitor to a low amount.


Well I live in the UK. So VAT/TAX Would come in at £40.


----------



## LC155

Since this seems to be the most popular thread, how is the info regarding the differences in the PCBs between the monitors? Is there any one that has a large quality difference over the others, or are they all similar enough quality wise? (excluding the 120hz one)


----------



## BoredErica

I'd say the different is quite small. I don't even hear people talking about difference in PCB's here. Shimians have higher malfunctioning rate than others, Catleaps are Catleaps and Crossovers have a better build quality and a good stand. That's all the comparing I hear here.


----------



## LC155

Shimians? I'd say they've got the best rate to be honest. I'm hearing complaints about the crossover and catleaps a lot, but the Shimian has been relatively quiet... huh.


----------



## BoredErica

Based on a poll at http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270 the chance of a good monitor is ~80 for Shimians and the rate for Crossover/Catleaps is at ~86%.


----------



## thisisvv

got the mail from people who are selling this monitor that it the asus video card is not compatible...


----------



## BoredErica

ASUS Video Card really means nothing, it's the model number...


----------



## praxis248

Has any member who ordered from bigclothcraft last Wed/Thurs received any sort of replies to e-mails? Another member here and myself are currently in limbo with no replies from the seller...


----------



## thisisvv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> ASUS Video Card really means nothing, it's the model number...


I have the following motherboard
http://www.amazon.com/ASUS-M5A88-M-6Gbps-Micro-Motherboards/dp/tech-data/B0053YM6QY/ref=de_a_smtd
it has
ATI Radeon HD 4250...
can i use this Monitor with it.....??
Thanks for all the help


----------



## thisisvv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> According to Asus it is a dual link dvi so it will work. Just don't expect to play games on it.


mailed them they said the card is not compatible....


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Based on a poll at http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270 the chance of a good monitor is ~80 for Shimians and the rate for Crossover/Catleaps is at ~86%.


Ah, well I heard the PCB's of the crossover may be able to be switched, so there's that if it decides to die later on down the line too, I guess.


----------



## zzTroyzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *praxis248*
> 
> Has any member who ordered from bigclothcraft last Wed/Thurs received any sort of replies to e-mails? Another member here and myself are currently in limbo with no replies from the seller...


I ordered last Sunday, my monitor arrived on Tuesday


----------



## praxis248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzTroyzz*
> 
> I ordered last Sunday, my monitor arrived on Tuesday


Uhh..wow. We both ordered Thursday and haven't received any response.


----------



## BoredErica

That is incredible delivery... I have to wait on Greensum since it's the weekend.


----------



## zzTroyzz

Well I don't know, if you ordered late Thursday, it could have been near the end of business Friday in Korea. It's Monday afternoon there now so hopefully you'll hear soon!


----------



## zzTroyzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> That is incredible delivery... I have to wait on Greensum since it's the weekend.


It was shipped DHL Express, I was pretty impressed!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzTroyzz*
> 
> It was shipped DHL Express, I was pretty impressed!


If only my monitor can grow wings!








I'm guessing I'm going to get it this week... maybe Wednesday.


----------



## praxis248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzTroyzz*
> 
> Well I don't know, if you ordered late Thursday, it could have been near the end of business Friday in Korea. It's Monday afternoon there now so hopefully you'll hear soon!


Fingers crossed.

P.S. This is a great online community.


----------



## BoredErica

Just got tracking number. No info other than that. I think it's on plane. 1 day and 10 hours after original order.

PS: OMG guys, my avatar is a normal avatar FLIPPED UPSIDE DOWN!!!


----------



## praxis248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *praxis248*
> 
> Fingers crossed.
> P.S. This is a great online community.


OK, bigclothcraft replied. Hopefully it will ship soon


----------



## PTCB

Finally arrived. Took two extra days because of the weekend (local courier doesn't deliver).

Bought from BCC. Fast contact and shipping. He also wrapped the box with polystyrene sheet which is a good idea (refer to pic).



For potential buyers, it also comes with the univeral adaptor which wasn't in the listing (Catleap Q270). Also, the DVI-D cable is as thick as it gets, and looks different from the one I saw in previous posts. I'll post pics once I get it up and running.

In addition, the stand doesn't wobble at all. However, it was a bit of a pain to get it fully in. I'm beginning to think that what people describe the stand as being wobbly might just be a case of the stand was not properly inserted. I hope I'm right as it'd mean that the stand might not be its weakness after all. By the way, I used a screwdriver to tighten the screws.


----------



## Mkilbride

As thick as it gets, oh really?

I bought one from Monoprice that was 3x as thick as the one shown in all these pictures. Maybe 4x.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=3#specification

Pictures do not do it justice. The thing...is literally hanging off my GPU's DVI-D port...like bending down, I am thinking of getting a support base, lol.

I guess it's a really secure connection!


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> As thick as it gets, oh really?
> I bought one from Monoprice that was 3x as thick as the one shown in all these pictures. Maybe 4x.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=3#specification
> Pictures do not do it justice. The thing...is literally hanging off my GPU's DVI-D port...like bending down, I am thinking of getting a support base, lol.
> I guess it's a really secure connection!


Why the attitude? I was only comparing it to the included cable I saw in previous posts like a few months ago. Mine look nothing like it. So, was thinking that they might have changed the OEM. Anyway, it's thicker than Dell's. That's for sure. Like I said, will post some pics later.

Your money, your choice. I'm only trying to help other potential buyers making a informed decision.


----------



## iARDAs

My monitor is shipped too 

I have the tracking number but i believe it is not in the system yet.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Why the attitude? I was only comparing it to the included cable I saw in previous posts like a few months ago. Mine look nothing like it. So, was thinking that they might have changed the OEM. Anyway, it's thicker than Dell's. That's for sure. Like I said, will post some pics later.
> Your money, your choice. I'm only trying to help other potential buyers making a informed decision.


Attitude...?

What...?

Lol.

I'm guessing English is not your native language...that's not an insult, I'm just guessing, because you took my post as aggressive.


----------



## iARDAs

Will the monitos we ordered be the 2C revision models?


----------



## Mkilbride

Yes, all the 2B stock are sold or locked away.

A site that is not allowed to be named regularly gets batches of "2B Extreme" editions.

They sell for 555$, which is fair, considering the megajump of 120HZ. To give you a comparison, if Dell, HP, or Apple, sold a 27'', 1440p, S-IPS monitor @ 120HZ,, they would charge 1200$ most likely. Considering their non 120HZ, 27'', S-IPS monitor is 800$ right now, they'd add a 400$ surcharge, I do not doubt.

Even if they only added a 200$ charge, you'd still be paying 1000$ for what you could have at half the price.


----------



## LC155

I really don't see the appeal of 120hz, but I guess different strokes for different folks.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Yes, all the 2B stock are sold or locked away.
> A site that is not allowed to be named regularly gets batches of "2B Extreme" editions.
> They sell for 555$, which is fair, considering the megajump of 120HZ. To give you a comparison, if Dell, HP, or Apple, sold a 27'', 1440p, S-IPS monitor @ 120HZ,, they would charge 1200$ most likely. Considering their non 120HZ, 27'', S-IPS monitor is 800$ right now, they'd add a 400$ surcharge, I do not doubt.
> Even if they only added a 200$ charge, you'd still be paying 1000$ for what you could have at half the price.


Ahh i see its cool. I dont mind 60 fps. When later on 120hz panels come out from the factory with 1440p than i will buy that and sell the one I ordered. All is fine. 

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I really don't see the appeal of 120hz, but I guess different strokes for different folks.


120hz gaming is very smooth to be honest but 60hz gaming is good too. It is not a loss to have 60hz but 120hz is better in many games.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I really don't see the appeal of 120hz, but I guess different strokes for different folks.


You don't see the appeal of twice as many updates, more visual fidelity, smoother panning, and more realistic motion?

Honestly - It almost feels like so many who don't get 120HZ never used a CRT monitor.

They don't understand that LCD's are a downgrade in everything except weight, power usage, and manufacturing costs, versus CRT. CRT has better everything else.

There is no need to sell your old and a buy a new.

2B PCB's should be out by the end of the year, hopefully selling in the sub 200$ range, most likely 125$ if estimates are close.

Then you just pop your old PCB out and pop the 2B one in.

I know what yer thinking - Sounds like a risk, but it's really not!

I looked it up and asked around and if you can use a screwdriver, you can change the PCB - no need for soldering tools, or any re-wiring or anything. Simply deconnect the old one, put the new one in and enjoy - Walla.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> You don't see the appeal of twice as many updates, more visual fidelity, smoother panning, and more realistic motion?
> Honestly - It almost feels like so many who don't get 120HZ never used a CRT monitor.
> They don't understand that LCD's are a downgrade in everything except weight, power usage, and manufacturing costs, versus CRT. CRT has better everything else.
> There is no need to sell your old and a buy a new.
> 2B PCB's should be out by the end of the year, hopefully selling in the sub 200$ range, most likely 125$ if estimates are close.
> Then you just pop your old PCB out and pop the 2B one in.
> I know what yer thinking - Sounds like a risk, but it's really not!
> I looked it up and asked around and if you can use a screwdriver, you can change the PCB - no need for soldering tools, or any re-wiring or anything. Simply deconnect the old one, put the new one in and enjoy - Walla.


Hmm good to know.

So all comes down to the PCB than ha?

The screen is capable of even 240z if the pcb can achieve it?

I thought screens also played part on refrest rates.


----------



## LC155

The panels were not designed to run at 120hz. No one knows the effects of the long term overclock on them. As I prefer 1440p to 120hz, I think I'll stick with 60hz. Years of using it has made my eyes adjusted to it completely, and it doesn't bother me.

By the way - isn't it only the crossover that can be replaced easily? Or so I hear, anyway. Least it'll make repairing the monitors easier - so long as it's the PCB that dies and not the panel.

EDIT: (Just seen your reply in the other thread and asked for sources on that,)


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> *As thick as it gets, oh really?*
> I bought one from Monoprice that was 3x as thick as the one shown in all these pictures. Maybe 4x.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2686&seq=1&format=3#specification
> Pictures do not do it justice. The thing...is literally hanging off my GPU's DVI-D port...like bending down, I am thinking of getting a support base, lol.
> I guess it's a really secure connection!


Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> *Attitude...?
> What...?
> Lol.
> I'm guessing English is not your native language*...that's not an insult, I'm just guessing, because you took my post as aggressive.


His English seems fine to me, and I agree with him, you come across with a bit of attitude, maybe you don't mean it, but is sounds that way.

Maybe his cable is the same thickness as yours...he hasn't posted a picture of it yet and he said it was different from the OEM that usually came with the monitor.


----------



## Scorpion49

So now I'm disappointed, I ordered mine from dream-seller last week on thursday (friday in Korea) after reading the ad saying that they were going on vacation this week and won't ship orders after the 31st. I figured I was good, but I got an email today saying it won't even be processed until the middle of next week, so I won't see my screen for probably 2 to 3 weeks now.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So now I'm disappointed, I ordered mine from dream-seller last week on thursday (friday in Korea) after reading the ad saying that they were going on vacation this week and won't ship orders after the 31st. I figured I was good, but I got an email today saying it won't even be processed until the middle of next week, so I won't see my screen for probably 2 to 3 weeks now.


Unlucky.

I got mine overnight.

But it has a massive backlight bleed problem, even though it came pixel perfect.(Lucky on that)

Now I have to send it back. Probably be 1-2 weeks on that, then they'll chose real chip and slow shipping on the new one, I bet! (I don't full blame them, though.)

I bet the replacement will have like 100 dead pixels like some real unlucky fellows have been getting, or be smashed in during shipping.

I have terrible luck in all things, so when I saw this monitor...ship overnight, look absolutely perfect, no dead pixels, run beautifully, look good...then to load up one of my favorite horror games and see the 4 corners looked like someone was shining a light on them...oh the disappointment sunk in..so hard, I was depressed, even, as I had just gotten off a really bad day at work.

These things happen.


----------



## Chrisbes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Unlucky.
> I got mine overnight.
> But it has a massive backlight bleed problem, even though it came pixel perfect.(Lucky on that)
> Now I have to send it back. Probably be 1-2 weeks on that, then they'll chose real chip and slow shipping on the new one, I bet! (I don't full blame them, though.)
> I bet the replacement will have like 100 dead pixels like some real unlucky fellows have been getting, or be smashed in during shipping.
> I have terrible luck in all things, so when I saw this monitor...ship overnight, look absolutely perfect, no dead pixels, run beautifully, look good...then to load up one of my favorite horror games and see the 4 corners looked like someone was shining a light on them...oh the disappointment sunk in..so hard, I was depressed, even, as I had just gotten off a really bad day at work.
> These things happen.


And then you realise that it was only £200/$300

Honestly, you're going to get some problems. They are rejected panels for a reason. Lets just hope your next one has less bleeding.


----------



## BoredErica

I hope DHL delivery doesn't require I be at the door because I still have college.


----------



## Mackem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> All monitors with multiple inputs have higher input lag by default. IPS will always be slower than TN.
> The catleap would be 27" vs a 23" Asus with 2560x1440 vs 1920x1080 resolution. If you do gaming you may need to take that into account as 1440p is a bit more demanding.


Yeah, I only have a GTX 560Ti 1GB (The old version, not the one with more cores).


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I really don't see the appeal of 120hz, but I guess different strokes for different folks.


Honestly, gaming at 100Hz+ is day and night of a difference to me. For desktop usage, it's just nice and smooth to have but not a must, however in games, where I thought 60Hz was absolute smoothness feels now pretty slow compared to the smoothness in motion you gain at 100Hz. Even if I'm not always at 100 fps, I still feel like the refresh rate at 60~90 fps is just so much smoother at 100Hz than 60Hz. Now onto saving up for a 6xx/7xx series GPU so I can take it up to 120Hz...

btw another appeal you might be interested in is having absolutely no tearing.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> ship overnight, look absolutely perfect, no dead pixels, run beautifully, look good...then to load up one of my favorite horror games and *see the 4 corners looked like someone was shining a light on them*....


Sure you are not just seeing the IPS glow? At first I mistook my IPS glow for godawful bleeding as well.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> Sure you are not just seeing the IPS glow? At first I mistook my IPS glow for godawful bleeding as well.


We already went over this in several threads. It is not IPS glow.


----------



## Clay259

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> We already went over this in several threads. It is not IPS glow.


Seems to me that IPS glow wouldn't cause the corners to shade out parts of the image to the point of being unrecognizable. From the pictures I seen it looks to be severe backlight bleed..GAWD..I hope mine isn't like that.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Finally arrived. Took two extra days because of the weekend (local courier doesn't deliver).
> Bought from BCC. Fast contact and shipping. He also wrapped the box with polystyrene sheet which is a good idea (refer to pic).
> 
> For potential buyers, it also comes with the univeral adaptor which wasn't in the listing (Catleap Q270). Also, the DVI-D cable is as thick as it gets, and looks different from the one I saw in previous posts. I'll post pics once I get it up and running.
> In addition, the stand doesn't wobble at all. However, it was a bit of a pain to get it fully in. I'm beginning to think that what people describe the stand as being wobbly might just be a case of the stand was not properly inserted. I hope I'm right as it'd mean that the stand might not be its weakness after all. By the way, I used a screwdriver to tighten the screws.


Thicker cable? Nice - please post a pic so we can compare. Anything over a 28 gauge cable for a standard 60hz model is way overkill (but this is OCN after all!) 24 gauge is a REQUIREMENT if you have a 120hz and plan on hitting that mark or above (we have people that hit 135hz before lines, black out, etc.) A 28 is ok for 120hz gaming, but most people are stuck in the 85-100hz mark due now to nVidia's drivers (older versions work fine.) Also, SLI people cannot get over 100hz due to the inherent pixel clock limitation (yes, even the bad boy 690 will not ramp up.)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> You don't see the appeal of twice as many updates, more visual fidelity, smoother panning, and more realistic motion?
> Honestly - It almost feels like so many who don't get 120HZ never used a CRT monitor.
> They don't understand that LCD's are a downgrade in everything except weight, power usage, and manufacturing costs, versus CRT. CRT has better everything else.
> There is no need to sell your old and a buy a new.
> 2B PCB's should be out by the end of the year, hopefully selling in the sub 200$ range, most likely 125$ if estimates are close.
> Then you just pop your old PCB out and pop the 2B one in.
> I know what yer thinking - Sounds like a risk, but it's really not!
> I looked it up and asked around and if you can use a screwdriver, you can change the PCB - no need for soldering tools, or any re-wiring or anything. Simply deconnect the old one, put the new one in and enjoy - Walla.


No need to look around - read the OP - complete step-by-step on opening and pics are there. You are correct - a total of 14 screws (internally) and you have the PCBs free from the housing. Piece of cake. The site that shall not be named has updates regularly for those interested in PCBs.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> The panels were not designed to run at 120hz. No one knows the effects of the long term overclock on them. As I prefer 1440p to 120hz, I think I'll stick with 60hz. Years of using it has made my eyes adjusted to it completely, and it doesn't bother me.
> By the way - isn't it only the crossover that can be replaced easily? Or so I hear, anyway. Least it'll make repairing the monitors easier - so long as it's the PCB that dies and not the panel.
> EDIT: (Just seen your reply in the other thread and asked for sources on that,)


Not sure about this. We have different opinions from folks claiming to have electrical engineering degrees. Some, like you (and not saying you are an EE), say the panel may suffer. Others say the opposite. Those that do not feel this impacts the panel at all point to the PCBs as the parts that MAY suffer, but overall there is no indication that the panels cannot handle a higher rate for extended periods of time. Heat testing on 60hz panels vs. panels running OCd to 120hz show no real temp differences in the component parts (negligible increases for the 120hz version.)

Of course, we will know in another year how these are holding up (February 2013 will be the birthday of several of my 120s).


----------



## BoredErica

I've interested to see the longevity of these monitors, across all brands, and the Catleap oc'ed.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I've interested to see the longevity of these monitors, across all brands, and the Catleap oc'ed.


That is a mystery as of now









I wonder if anyone used this monitor for a looong time.

I would be content if the monitor worked for 3 years or so. I would than probably replace it with a newer tech anyway.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I hope DHL delivery doesn't require I be at the door because I still have college.


I've tracking but no informations available


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> I've tracking but no informations available


Same here. I read it takes them up to 48 hours to get info for tracking. It'd be sad if I have the monitor by then.


----------



## iARDAs

Same.

DHL, tracking number but no info.

Maybe they update tomorrow


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Same here. I read it takes them up to 48 hours to get info for tracking. It'd be sad if I have the monitor by then.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Same.
> 
> DHL, tracking number but no info.
> 
> Maybe they update tomorrow


Challenge three


----------



## Hamy144

For anyone complaining about bad backlight bleeding.
its not that bad!


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> For anyone complaining about bad backlight bleeding.
> its not that bad!


That screen looks like it's off. My backlight bleed is way worse.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Challenge three


First to upload pictures of their new Catleap gets a PRIZE!









Greensum valued my monitor at $120 for customs.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> First to upload pictures of their new Catleap gets a PRIZE!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Greensum valued my monitor at $120 for customs.


Hmmmm I hope greensum did a trick for me too.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmmmm I hope greensum did a trick for me too.


Probably did. He wants the good reps on Ebay.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Probably did. He wants the good reps on Ebay.


If my monitor passes the custom and is delivered to my house without any hassle, i would probably name my kid after him.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> That screen looks like it's off. My backlight bleed is way worse.


Nope it's on just look in the bottom right you can see the green light


----------



## meursault

Ordered 2 catleaps from bigclothcraft. I opted for pixel perfect which was apparently sold out in regular catleaps so he asked if I would accept the SE catleaps instead. I wasn't planning on using the speakers anyway so the SE edition is better for me anyways.

Looking forward to my 2 monitors arriving. I'll update with how my experience went with bigclothcraft shortly. So far they seem very professional and fast.


----------



## ashyg

Just bought my first catleap, arrived today.

Catleap 2703 LED IPS 27"

I've discovered what I believe to be about 10 stuck pixels, all in somewhat of a cluster on the hard right edge of the screen.

I ran a stuck pixel fixer (jscreenfix) and it removed maybe 2 of them, so theres still about 8 little green dots remaining.

In addition the monitor creates a dull buzzing noise when displaying pages that seem to have a lot of white.

I'd like to get your guys opinion, message green-sum and inquire about a return or leave it as is?
I'm not to fond of paying return shipping.

Thanks


----------



## Prymus

these do have VESA mounts correct?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prymus*
> 
> these do have VESA mounts correct?


True but you need to void your warranty to use it.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> True but you need to void your warranty to use it.


Wow do our monitors have warranty? How long?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Wow do our monitors have warranty? How long?


They have one year manufacturer warranty.


----------



## BoredErica

I think 1 year with Squaretrade or something.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> They have one year manufacturer warranty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think 1 year with Squaretrade or something.


I hope t never breaks down though. It would be a pain to send it back to Korea.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think 1 year with Squaretrade or something.


You can get extra 3year square trade warranty but it's extra.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Got mine today. No issues that I can readily see. Tried looking for stuck pixels and whatnot but cannot see anything. There is some minor backlight bleed around the corners at high brightness, but I turned it down so I don't burn my eyes up lol.

Got it from Green-Sum


----------



## BoredErica

Well that's extra $50, and another $65? to send to Korea. (Do they make you pay for return shipping?)


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Well that's extra $50, and another $65? to send to Korea. (Do they make you pay for return shipping?)


If it has a fault they pay.
If you just don't want it you pay..


----------



## H8ff0000

I might have a problem. My monitor sometimes flashes to nearly all black quickly, during the process it has some colored vertical lines. The fadeout only takes a second or two. Then I'll have to unplug the DVI-D cable for a bit and hope it comes on when I plug it back in. Sometimes it doesn't. Also the frequency of this varies as well. I thought the problem might be the cable that came with the monitor, so I bought this:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2688&seq=1&format=2

For a few days it was fine. Now it just started happening again. My monitor isn't overclocked. Any suggestions?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H8ff0000*
> 
> I might have a problem. My monitor sometimes flashes to nearly all black quickly, during the process it has some colored vertical lines. The fadeout only takes a second or two. Then I'll have to unplug the DVI-D cable for a bit and hope it comes on when I plug it back in. Sometimes it doesn't. Also the frequency of this varies as well. I thought the problem might be the cable that came with the monitor, so I bought this:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020901&p_id=2688&seq=1&format=2
> For a few days it was fine. Now it just started happening again. My monitor isn't overclocked. Any suggestions?


It might be overheating, try putting a desk fan pointing at it


----------



## LC155

I think the later problems we could see from the monitors would be in the PCBs, and probably not the panels. In that case, it may be better just to buy a new PCB and put that one in, rather than sending it back to korea..

Purely speculation on my part, though.


----------



## Prymus

Ordered. Ebay error so I paid twice. Nice lady from India says it's taken care of. I hope I don't get two monitors in the mail.


----------



## revamper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prymus*
> 
> Ordered. Ebay error so I paid twice. Nice lady from India says it's taken care of. I hope I don't get two monitors in the mail.


dual monitors are epic


----------



## IronDoq

Well today at around 12:30 I decided to go to the bathroom, and when I came back the tracking information says that there was an attempted delivery... *facepalm*


----------



## Prymus

Not if i can't pay my mortgage.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> Well today at around 12:30 I decided to go to the bathroom, and when I came back the tracking information says that there was an attempted delivery... *facepalm*


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Prymus*
> 
> Not if i can't pay my mortgage.


noone pays for their mortgage man dont worry just pay ebay for another monitor and go surround.


----------



## BoredErica

You should know this by now, #1 rule of Catleap delivery is to not go to the bathroom...


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> You should know this by now, #1 rule of Catleap delivery is to not go to the bathroom...


I just put a guy an payroll to stay by the door and wait for the monitor.


----------



## BoredErica

Real die-hards know how to hold it in, bro.


----------



## IronDoq

NOW you guys tell me... there needs to be a warning in bold red colors on the OP.


----------



## H8ff0000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> It might be overheating, try putting a desk fan pointing at it


I don't think that's it since it doesn't seem dependent on time used consecutively. Plus I don't think a fan would help help cool down the internals anyway.


----------



## iARDAs

Can someone give me a link of a 1440p video that will blow my mind away when i receive my monitor?

or any other video that will make me appreciate the monitor.

I just want to show it off to friends


----------



## PurdueCIA

I was using their WQHD videos, you can download them too (at the bottom right corner "Download" button) Not sure if they're full WQHD resolution but they're gorgeous

You can also display some 2560x1440 walpapers, you can get some nice ones from here.
Or if you have BF3 or Crysis 2, you can play the opening scenes! Happy bragging.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Filmed in 4k resolution. Depicts the American Southwest


----------



## revlisoft

Ordered two from BCC on Friday and recieved one today. I ordered the Q271 and it's gorgeous. No dead pixels at all. The base is flimsy still but I'm removing it to attach to my ergotron arm. It's not as bad as the Q270 but still a PITA since you still have to remove the bezel. However, after taking out the bezel you just needed to take out 6 screws that attaches the back panel to the back case. After that lift the bottom of the panel up around 20-25 degrees which gives you access to the four screw without having to disconnect any cables.

Everything works perfectly. 2560x1440 resolution over HDMI with sound. The audio is no home theater but definitely loud enough. The OSD is good but took a bit of playing around in Korean before I was able to change the language back to English. I didn't like the temperature color of 5k. Once I changed it to 8200k that was perfect for me.

I'm waiting for the 2nd Q271 to arrive and let you know how it goes but overall so far I'm satisfied with BCC's service and product quality. Would definitely recommend him/her to everyone!


----------



## revlisoft

Here are some photos


----------



## PurdueCIA

Hahaha...yamakasi changed their box graphics. More menacing now! Glad you get a perfect panel.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Attitude...?
> What...?
> Lol.
> I'm guessing English is not your native language...that's not an insult, I'm just guessing, because you took my post as aggressive.


Well, your guess is wrong. And I'm also guessing that you love to take every chance you get to justify your $8.65 purchase...that's not an insult, I'm just guessing, because you seem to think so.









Back to the monitor:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Will the monitos we ordered be the 2C revision models?


I got the Q270LED2F5 rev. Don't mind the 60Hz at all. Good luck with your monitor.


----------



## Asmodean

Hey guys,

I'm really considering hitting the 'buy it now' button on this, after a few days of trying to work up the courage lol.

Was hoping to get some opinions on this: YAMAKASI New CATLEAP Q271 HDMI 2560X1440 27" LED LG S-IPS Monitor Perfect Pixel

I'm assuning it's IQ is better than the Crossover as this has 5,000,000:1 dynamic contrast (in spec at least) and the Crossover has only max 1000:1.

Do you think it's the truth about the "perfect pixel"? it is going for more than the others.

It's very hard to judge with 0 reviews etc, Would really love to know how the IQ, Contrast, blacks/whites etc are (The blacks in the screenshot in the2 above post looks like the black levels are very washed out?).

But, I suppose theres nout I can do about it with no reviews lol.

Any help with this would be very much appreciated.

Edit: I've heard pretty bad things about the q270's stand, I don't really have the setup area for wall mounting, so I was wondering if anyone new if the stand problems are corrected in this model? Thanks again.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm really considering hitting the 'buy it now' button on this, after a few days of trying to work up the courage lol.
> Was hoping to get some opinions on this: YAMAKASI New CATLEAP Q271 HDMI 2560X1440 27" LED LG S-IPS Monitor Perfect Pixel
> I'm assuning it's IQ is better than the Crossover as this has 5,000,000:1 dynamic contrast (in spec at least) and the Crossover has only max 1000:1.
> Do you think it's the truth about the "perfect pixel"? it is going for more than the others.
> It's very hard to judge with 0 reviews etc, Would really love to know how the IQ, Contrast, blacks/whites etc are (The blacks in the screenshot in the2 above post looks like the black levels are very washed out?).
> But, I suppose theres nout I can do about it with no reviews lol.
> Any help with this would be very much appreciated.
> Edit: I've heard pretty bad things about the q270's stand, I don't really have the setup area for wall mounting, so I was wondering if anyone new if the stand problems are corrected in this model? Thanks again.


Dynamic contrast is a scam. If I turn a pixel off vs make it show pure white the dynamic contrast is infinity. Real contrast is around ~1000:1
The newer Catleap, like 2703 or something like that, might have better stand. Crossover has a very good stand but you'll get slapped with an extra $35 price.


----------



## wkstar

For Everyone Looking for Good Cables
http://www.monstercable.com/outletstore/linelist.asp#132704
Scroll Down


----------



## Asmodean

+1 for the info, thanks.

I've spotted another new korean 1440 isp btw DGM IPS-2701WPH Not sure if it's known about, or how it compares to the catleap though.

I'm probably going to buy the q271 catleap. Main worry here myself, is they've only been around for a few months and seem too good to be true, so i'm expecting them to have a very short lifespan lol.


----------



## iARDAs

Still nothing under the tracking number


----------



## BoredErica

Same here, give it another 24 hours. At least me and the Italian guy. 48 hours at most till' info for tracking number, or so I am told.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Same here, give it another 24 hours. At least me and the Italian guy. 48 hours at most till' info for tracking number, or so I am told.


Yeah 48 thats true. Thats what I read too but was just hoping it to show up earlier. I wonder where my package is right now ((((

Is it safe? Is it fed? Is it scared? Is it too cold under an A/C unit? I wonder how it is (((


----------



## UNOE

do all the boxes have pictures of demons on it


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Yeah 48 thats true. Thats what I read too but was just hoping it to show up earlier. I wonder where my package is right now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ((((
> 
> Is it safe? Is it fed? Is it scared? Is it too cold under an A/C unit? I wonder how it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (((


LOL <3 I share your enthusiasm for the welfare of our respective monitors.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> LOL <3 I share your enthusiasm for the welfare of our respective monitors.


31/07/2012
Shipment picked up

Come on


----------



## iARDAs

Still nothing for me 

When did you order it ziofranco and from whom???


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Still nothing for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When did you order it ziofranco and from whom???


Saturday afternoon from green sum


----------



## iARDAs

Me too but still nothing under the shipment number


----------



## huyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Saturday afternoon from green sum


Tuesday, July 31, 2012 Location Time
1 Shipment picked up

lets see who receives theirs first


----------



## iShox

Quick question guys. Can you run a DVI to Display Port adapter and still get a 2560x1440 res?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iShox*
> 
> Quick question guys. Can you run a DVI to Display Port adapter and still get a 2560x1440 res?


I am almost sure you can(wait for somebody to fully confirm), but it has to be an *active* DP to Dual Link DVI adapter (it has an extra usb plug to draw power for the active part) and are costly 50 to 60 euro and up.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iShox*
> 
> Quick question guys. Can you run a DVI to Display Port adapter and still get a 2560x1440 res?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I am almost sure you can(wait for somebody to fully confirm), but it has to be an *active* DP to Dual Link DVI adapter (it has an extra usb plug to draw power for the active part) and are costly 50 to 60 euro and up.


You can and it doesn't have to be active unless you want to run more then 2 monitors you would need something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Display-Port-DisplayPort-to-DVI-DVI-D-24-1-pin-female-Dual-Link-cable-cord-/170879580692?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item27c9377a14#ht_3435wt_1163


----------



## Mech0z

Is there a good chance to get a monitor that can be overclocked to 120Hz?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mech0z*
> 
> Is there a good chance to get a monitor that can be overclocked to 120Hz?


0% chance unless you get one of the "extreme" monitors that are a lot more expensive


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> You can and it doesn't have to be active unless you want to run more then 2 monitors you would need something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Display-Port-DisplayPort-to-DVI-DVI-D-24-1-pin-female-Dual-Link-cable-cord-/170879580692?pt=US_Video_Cables_Adapters&hash=item27c9377a14#ht_3435wt_1163


I could be wrong as I have not done it myself, but every post I have read on here in the last few months says you need an active DP to DL-DVI to run the 2560 x 1440 resolution. Non-active DP to DL-DVI supports up to 1920 x 1080, active DP to DL-DVI supports up to 2560 x 1600

Also from what I understand it is impossible to run two 2560 x 1440 displays of one DL-DVI.

Can you run a non active DP to DL-DVI at 2560 x 1440, have you tried this and tested to be working ?


----------



## revlisoft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asmodean*
> 
> Edit: I've heard pretty bad things about the q270's stand, I don't really have the setup area for wall mounting, so I was wondering if anyone new if the stand problems are corrected in this model? Thanks again.


The Q271 stand is still flimsy. I would highly recommend you get a VESA 100 ergotron mount from newegg for $40 or so especially if you need to readjust your monitor constantly. The good thing is that the VESA 100 you get can be used for your other monitors down the line. Plus the Q271 stand looks a bit ugly even though the panel looks amazing.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revlisoft*
> 
> The Q271 stand is still flimsy. I would highly recommend you get a VESA 100 ergotron mount from newegg for $40 or so especially if you need to readjust your monitor constantly. The good thing is that the VESA 100 you get can be used for your other monitors down the line. Plus the Q271 stand looks a bit ugly even though the panel looks amazing.


The Q27*1* has a vesa 100 mount
the Q27*0* has a vesa 75 mount


----------



## iARDAs

So to get this straight. In order to use a Vesa mount, i need to take my monitor apart?

What if i want to go with a high quality stand. Which one would you guys prefer?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So to get this straight. In order to use a Vesa mount, i need to take my monitor apart?
> 
> What if i want to go with a high quality stand. Which one would you guys prefer?


On the 270 you have to open it up to remove the silver arc.
On the 271 you dont but you would have part of the original stand still on it but still have warranty.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> On the 270 you have to open it up to remove the silver arc.
> On the 271 you dont but you would have part of the original stand still on it but still have warranty.


Hmmm that sux.

I will try to look for a better stand than. I will first see if the stand have issues if not get a better one. I dont mind if it wobbles a lot to behonest as I will not be touching the screen much. Just set it up and never remove it. I set my current monitor up 7 months ago and never touched it besides cleaning. As long as the current stand is safe, than I would be content.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmmm that sux.
> 
> I will try to look for a better stand than. I will first see if the stand have issues if not get a better one. I dont mind if it wobbles a lot to behonest as I will not be touching the screen much. Just set it up and never remove it. I set my current monitor up 7 months ago and never touched it besides cleaning. As long as the current stand is safe, than I would be content.


Yeah the stand is fine, its not going to fall over, and if you have a sturdy desk it wont move at all.


----------



## baldbrah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> On the 270 you have to open it up to remove the silver arc.
> On the 271 you dont but you would have part of the original stand still on it but still have warranty.


warranty on this thing is non existent anyway, so mind as well take it apart..i did and glad i did. mounting it to a dual monitor mount i got from amazon.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> warranty on this thing is non existent anyway, so mind as well take it apart..i did and glad i did. mounting it to a dual monitor mount i got from amazon.


q

Well they have to honor it if its advertised.
But after a month or two id say the wont fail as most seam to, if they do, fail in the first few days or weeks.


----------



## BoredErica

To my fellow Monitor Buyers from Greensum that purchased same time as me:

Number Origin
Service Area Destination
Service Area Status
2516740822 Seoul - Korea, Republic of Fremont - USA Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of as of: July 31, 2012 19:48

- Detailed Report
Date Time Location Service Area Checkpoint Details
July 31, 2012
17:52

Seoul - Korea, Republic of Shipment picked up
July 31, 2012
19:40

Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
July 31, 2012
19:47

Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
July 31, 2012
19:48

Seoul - Korea, Republic of Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of

Looks like somebody's gonna have to give me free beer!








IT'S ON BABY! IT'S ON!!!

EDIT: Who am I kidding, this thing hasn't even arrived at USA from the looks of it. Sad face.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So to get this straight. In order to use a Vesa mount, i need to take my monitor apart?
> 
> What if i want to go with a high quality stand. Which one would you guys prefer?


I have the newer variant where I don't have the silver bezel. I still had to open up the monitor though, but it's honestly not that bad. Just be patient and careful.

For a high-quality stand, I ended up getting this. Looks a little expensive, but for its price, you can tilt, rotate, swivel, and height-adjust your monitor. The only thing you can't do is go portrait mode with the monitor, and that is because the monitor itself is too wide. That being said, I have never used an OEM stand as good as this third-party stand...ever.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> To my fellow Monitor Buyers from Greensum that purchased same time as me:
> Number Origin
> Service Area Destination
> Service Area Status
> 2516740822 Seoul - Korea, Republic of Fremont - USA Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of as of: July 31, 2012 19:48
> - Detailed Report
> Date Time Location Service Area Checkpoint Details
> July 31, 2012
> 17:52
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Shipment picked up
> July 31, 2012
> 19:40
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
> July 31, 2012
> 19:47
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
> July 31, 2012
> 19:48
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of
> Looks like somebody's gonna have to give me free beer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IT'S ON BABY! IT'S ON!!!
> EDIT: Who am I kidding, this thing hasn't even arrived at USA from the looks of it. Sad face.


Once it gets past Seoul, the shipping is lightning fast.


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Once it gets past Seoul, the shipping is lightning fast.


Very true. Mine wandered around South Korea for 2 days then appeared in L.A., took a nap for the weekend (GRRRRR), and then was off with a courier whose innate sense of timing left me fumbling for the TP as I heard the oh so distant knock of opportunity knock on my door. Needless to say, he caught me with my pants down.


----------



## nathanak21

How well would a 1gb 6870 do with this monitor? Also, is there any chance of getting a 2b catleap if I bought the normal model?


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathanak21*
> 
> How well would a 1gb 6870 do with this monitor? Also, is there any chance of getting a 2b catleap if I bought the normal model?


Well it would obviously be enough to run it, but, aside from the obvious v-ram constraint, the card just doesn't have enough horsepower to run most games at high/ultra settings at this resolution. The 1gb will prevent higher AA settings and textures *cough* Skyrim *cough*, but that is by no means telling you to sell it. Try it out for yourself and see how you like it. I, myself, am one of thsoe people who MUST have everything on ultra, but that's just me.

EDIT: and no, your monitor won't be able to go over 65~67Hz. Not unless you bought it from the website that shall not be named.


----------



## iARDAs

@ Admiral Mudkipz

Thanks for the link. If i end up having issues with the stand I will surely grab that one. Looks great. I will also look for local options here in Turkey

@ everyone else

Should i be worried? When i go to ebay and click on my tracking number there is still no movement. Nothing.

Ok it seems that I had to go to DHL's own website and track it. The ebay link didnt give me any information but according to DHL


3Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)19:48

2Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)19:47

1Shipment picked upSEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)17:52 


----------



## revlisoft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revlisoft*
> 
> Ordered two from BCC on Friday and recieved one today. I ordered the Q271 and it's gorgeous. No dead pixels at all. The base is flimsy still but I'm removing it to attach to my ergotron arm. It's not as bad as the Q270 but still a PITA since you still have to remove the bezel. However, after taking out the bezel you just needed to take out 6 screws that attaches the back panel to the back case. After that lift the bottom of the panel up around 20-25 degrees which gives you access to the four screw without having to disconnect any cables.
> Everything works perfectly. 2560x1440 resolution over HDMI with sound. The audio is no home theater but definitely loud enough. The OSD is good but took a bit of playing around in Korean before I was able to change the language back to English. I didn't like the temperature color of 5k. Once I changed it to 8200k that was perfect for me.
> I'm waiting for the 2nd Q271 to arrive and let you know how it goes but overall so far I'm satisfied with BCC's service and product quality. Would definitely recommend him/her to everyone!


FYI: I'm using an eVGA GTX 680.


----------



## revlisoft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> On the 270 you have to open it up to remove the silver arc.
> On the 271 you dont but you would have part of the original stand still on it but still have warranty.


It looks ugly if you don't take off the round stand and leave it attached. It would look like a pet vacuum attachment if you leave it on there. The Q271 is much easier to remove the stand though than from what I read on the Q271.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I could be wrong as I have not done it myself, but every post I have read on here in the last few months says you need an active DP to DL-DVI to run the 2560 x 1440 resolution. Non-active DP to DL-DVI supports up to 1920 x 1080, active DP to DL-DVI supports up to 2560 x 1600
> 
> Also from what I understand it is impossible to run two 2560 x 1440 displays of one DL-DVI.
> 
> Can you run a non active DP to DL-DVI at 2560 x 1440, have you tried this and tested to be working ?


It MUST be active.


----------



## BoredErica

The shipment process is pretty confusing to me, I wish they'd explain it for dummies.







Mine's still at "Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of as of: July 31, 2012 19:48"


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revlisoft*
> 
> FYI: I'm using an eVGA GTX 680.


GTX 560 Ti 448 user here. It seems like I can't get the 2560 x 1440 resolution via HDMI on Q271. I assume the problem is with my graphics card then. DVI works OK. Any suggestions?

edit: got the monitor from green-sum. No dead pixels, slight backlight bleeding at the corners, but I can live with that no doubt.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> The shipment process is pretty confusing to me, I wish they'd explain it for dummies.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mine's still at "Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of as of: July 31, 2012 19:48"


Mine is the same

I checked it via the DHL website.

It is also departed at 19:48 as well  hahaha our monitors are traveling together. How cute


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Yeah the stand is fine, its not going to fall over, and if you have a sturdy desk it wont move at all.


Yeah my desk is solid Oak and it doesn't move one bit.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> GTX 560 Ti 448 user here. It seems like I can't get the 2560 x 1440 resolution via HDMI on Q271. I assume the problem is with my graphics card then. DVI works OK. Any suggestions?
> edit: got the monitor from green-sum. No dead pixels, slight backlight bleeding at the corners, but I can live with that no doubt.


2560 x 1440 does not work via HDMI, no matter what version of the monitor you have. False advertisement.

HDMI 1.3, released in 2006, supports 2560 x 1440p, yet no monitor on the market supports it via HDMI yet.


----------



## plum

IPS is such a huge upgrade, I get headaches from just looking back at my old TN monitor. Put them next to each other and you'll see exactly what I mean


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> GTX 560 Ti 448 user here. It seems like I can't get the 2560 x 1440 resolution via HDMI on Q271. I assume the problem is with my graphics card then. DVI works OK. Any suggestions?


Anyone can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but.... You by all means should be able to run that resolution via HDMI since both ports are 1.4a... more than likely you have a sub par/cheap hdmi cable which is limiting the bandwidth. HDMI 1.4 can do 340MHz and that resolution at 60Hz is around 220MHZ if my math serves me right... that is of course assuming you're going HDMI to HDMI with no converters between.

Edit: it seems Mkillbride has beaten me to it. Although you theoretically can run that resolution it seems the monitor isn't capable of doing it







such a shame


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> 2560 x 1440 does not work via HDMI, no matter what version of the monitor you have. False advertisement.
> HDMI 1.3, released in 2006, supports 2560 x 1440p, yet no monitor on the market supports it via HDMI yet.


There's a user who reported he runs Q271 @ 2560 x 1440 via HDMI. Just a couple of pages back.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Mine is the same
> 
> I checked it via the DHL website.
> 
> It is also departed at 19:48 as well
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hahaha our monitors are traveling together. How cute


Maybe they're enjoying each other's company.


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandatoucher*
> 
> Anyone can feel free to correct me if I'm wrong but.... You by all means should be able to run that resolution via HDMI since both ports are 1.4a... more than likely you have a sub par/cheap hdmi cable which is limiting the bandwidth. HDMI 1.4 can do 340MHz and that resolution at 60Hz is around 220MHZ if my math serves me right... that is of course assuming you're going HDMI to HDMI with no converters between.
> Edit: it seems Mkillbride has beaten me to it. Although you theoretically can run that resolution it seems the monitor isn't capable of doing it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> such a shame


No converters. Just a single cable between two HDMI ports. The cable is very basic indeed.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> To my fellow Monitor Buyers from Greensum that purchased same time as me:
> Number Origin
> Service Area Destination
> Service Area Status
> 2516740822 Seoul - Korea, Republic of Fremont - USA Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of as of: July 31, 2012 19:48
> - Detailed Report
> Date Time Location Service Area Checkpoint Details
> July 31, 2012
> 17:52
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Shipment picked up
> July 31, 2012
> 19:40
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
> July 31, 2012
> 19:47
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
> July 31, 2012
> 19:48
> Seoul - Korea, Republic of Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of
> Looks like somebody's gonna have to give me free beer!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> IT'S ON BABY! IT'S ON!!!
> EDIT: Who am I kidding, this thing hasn't even arrived at USA from the looks of it. Sad face.


This is mine

July 31, 2012 17:52
Seoul - Korea, Republic of Shipment picked up
July 31, 2012 19:39
Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
July 31, 2012 19:47
Seoul - Korea, Republic of Processed at Seoul - Korea, Republic of
July 31, 2012 19:48
Seoul - Korea, Republic of Departed from DHL facility in Seoul - Korea, Republic of

This is same plane?!!


----------



## IronDoq

Just received mine but am unable to use it due to having plans...







And yes B.T.W. you have to check the shipping via the DHL website, as the Ebay tracking link takes a long while to update.


----------



## Quantium40

Just got me a white Catleap from dcsamsungmall, I think is the name. It got to my place by DHL. Package tracking was a no-go for me.
Plugged it in, turned it on, and it works







.

Checked for bad pixels, got one that shows up when display is black, but you practically need a magnifying glass, due to the small pixel size.
Backlight is noticable, of course, but only when displaying a black screen really. The stock dvi cable worked fine.
All in all, a very good deal.

Games look rediculously good at 2560x1440 now, and input lag is not noticeable compared to my previous 2ms 21" Asus.
For some reason, I am having trouble aiming now in Battlefield after the res upgrade, but I suspect I will get used to that.


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> No converters. Just a single cable between two HDMI ports. The cable is very basic indeed.


Well if it truly is possible that would be a large reason you cant push that resolution. Basic non "highspeed" hdmi cables only have about 75 MHz bandwidth. Pick up one marked for highspeed and hopefully that will fix it for you


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Maybe they're enjoying each other's company.


If they have a kid, a 23 inch 1080p IPS panel, it can stay 2 weeks in your place and 2 weeks in mine


----------



## Kently

Hi everyone! I joined this forum solely because I myself am jumping onto the Catleap bandwagon! I placed an order today for a Q270SE from green-sum. I'm hoping I'll receive it some time next week. Frankly, I expect to be blown away, as I'm presently using the same monitor that's served me since winter of 2007, a Samsung SyncMaster 932bw, whose native resolution is 1440x900. I was looking into upgrading sooner, but I'm glad I didn't since I stumbled upon this gem.









Anywho, I've got an MSI GTX670 to power the video card. The rest of my computer is pretty old... (IP35 pro, core2duo 6750 @ 3.6 GHZ, 4 gigs of ddr2 1066), however I think it'll be just fine. I'm super stoked about getting a monitor with such a high res, as a month ago I'd have thought such an acquisition would cost at least $750. Well, that's all I've got to say for the moment. I'll post again once I get it. Cheers!


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> There's a user who reported he runs Q271 @ 2560 x 1440 via HDMI. Just a couple of pages back.


And he's the only one with a Q271 to report that yet.

I say they are false advertising.
Quote:


> HDMI Version 1.3
> Introduced in 2006, HDMI 1.3 supports 2560x1440 HDTV resolution, 48-bit "deep color," the xvYCC color space and high-definition surround sound (TrueHD and DTS-HD). HDMI 1.3 also added cable categories: Category 1 cables are used for 720p and 1080i TVs, while Category 2 cables are required for 1080p TVs. See deep color and xvYCC.


And you're trying to tell me these discarded Dell monitors beat the giants of the industry to the market with HDMI that can do 1440p?
Quote:


> HDMI Version 1.4
> Introduced in 2009, HDMI 1.4 added 4K resolution, support for 3D and major enhancements for home theaters (for details, see HDMI 1.4).


Apple loves simplicity, but yet they haven't been able to get their Retina displays to run 2560 x 1440 HDMI yet...

So while it is, by the technical standards possible to run such a resolution, all monitors are internally limited for some reason, bandwidth most likely.


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> I have the newer variant where I don't have the silver bezel. I still had to open up the monitor though, but it's honestly not that bad. Just be patient and careful.
> For a high-quality stand, I ended up getting this. Looks a little expensive, but for its price, you can tilt, rotate, swivel, and height-adjust your monitor. The only thing you can't do is go portrait mode with the monitor, and that is because the monitor itself is too wide. That being said, I have never used an OEM stand as good as this third-party stand...ever.
> Once it gets past Seoul, the shipping is lightning fast.


I have that 3M stand on my 24" monitor and it works great. I was thinking about picking another one up for the Shimian I just ordered...I want pivot specifically to work though. Are you saying that the vertical size is too big for portrait?


----------



## BoredErica

Ok, us three, we are all in the same boat...er... plane!







I figure since you live in Italy I'd be different plane though.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> And he's the only one with a Q271 to report that yet.
> I say they are false advertising.
> And you're trying to tell me these discarded Dell monitors beat the giants of the industry to the market with HDMI that can do 1440p?
> Apple loves simplicity, but yet they haven't been able to get their Retina displays to run 2560 x 1440 HDMI yet...
> So while it is, by the technical standards possible to run such a resolution, all monitors are internally limited for some reason, bandwidth most likely.


Maybe you are wrong
Check this post

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/6900#post_17827127


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Ok, us three, we are all in the same boat...er... plane!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I figure since you live in Italy I'd be different plane though.


No, this plane crosses Asia, land in Milan before and then (later) in LAX


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> No, this plane crosses Asia, land in Milan before and then in LAX


They need to deliver by hovercraft.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> I have that 3M stand on my 24" monitor and it works great. I was thinking about picking another one up for the Shimian I just ordered...I want pivot specifically to work though. Are you saying that the vertical size is too big for portrait?


Yes. Here's some pics for reference.

This is the monitor at its lowest height: 

At its highest height:


Monitor at its highest height, rotated:


----------



## BoredErica

Imo if you're going to change the stand, just buy a Crossover. Steel backing + height adjustable stand.


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> And he's the only one with a Q271 to report that yet.
> I say they are false advertising.
> And you're trying to tell me these discarded Dell monitors beat the giants of the industry to the market with HDMI that can do 1440p?
> Apple loves simplicity, but yet they haven't been able to get their Retina displays to run 2560 x 1440 HDMI yet...
> So while it is, by the technical standards possible to run such a resolution, all monitors are internally limited for some reason, bandwidth most likely.


I'm not trying to tell you anything, because I'm afraid the thread will be buried under the heaps of wiki quotes then. I'll just wait for other Q271 owners to pop up and share their experience with HDMI input.

edit: I've found the cable blister and it says "high speed with ethernet".


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Yes. Here's some pics for reference.
> This is the monitor at its lowest height:
> At its highest height:


Your desktop is deep,lucky you


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Your desktop is deep,lucky you


Gotta love Ikea! lol


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Yes. Here's some pics for reference.
> Monitor at its highest height, rotated:


Tilting the monitor out, completing the rotation, then tilting the monitor back in doesn't work?

The 3M stand looked the same as the crossover stand, so I figured it would work as well.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> Tilting the monitor out, completing the rotation, then tilting the monitor back in doesn't work?
> The 3M stand looked the same as the crossover stand, so I figured it would work as well.


Just tried that. Still doesn't work, lol. It did allow for a little bit more rotation though.

EDIT: Just kidding. Had to turn it the other way, lol:



Thanks for the advice. Really loving this stand now.


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Just tired that. Still doesn't work, lol.


Well crud. May have to eventually to with arms instead of stands. Bah.


----------



## BoredErica

My desk is too low. I'm to cheap to buy Crossover. Solution? Put the monitors under a pile of books. Yup.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> My desk is too low. I'm to cheap to buy Crossover. Solution? Put the monitors under a pile of books. Yup.


Under my 23" TN I put a old book...it works perfectly


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Under my 23" TN I put a old book...it works perfectly


I'm just afraid every time I looked down I end up reading "Introduction to Psychology". LOL.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> Well crud. May have to eventually to with arms instead of stands. Bah.


Read the edit







.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I'm just afraid every time I looked down I end up reading "Introduction to Psychology". LOL.


OT
You live near Silicon Valley?


----------



## BoredErica

I live in Silicon Valley.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I live in Silicon Valley.


 Hahah so does my brother in law.

Works for Intel

Was in SF just the other month. Good place but the weather is not for me.


----------



## BoredErica

Why, what's wrong with weather here? It's good! No snow, no deserts.









In related news, I'm compulsively refreshing my DHL tracking page every other minute. Still nothing. Yet I keep checking.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I live in Silicon Valley.


It's not fair...the airport is so close to you









Did you see Job's House?


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Read the edit
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Sweet!


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

OK, so apparently nobody pays attention, so I'll post it again.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Why, what's wrong with weather here? It's good! No snow, no deserts.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In related news, I'm compulsively refreshing my DHL tracking page every other minute. Still nothing. Yet I keep checking.


Ahh man last June me and my wife FROZE in SF. It was so cold )) I like warm weather.

In related news, I also refresh my DHL page and magically hoping to see something like

" Your package is 5 mins away from your house, wait by the door "


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> OK, so apparently nobody pays attention, so I'll post it again.


New VGA?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> It's not fair...the airport is so close to you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did you see Job's House?


Pshhh. I'm his neighbor.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Ahh man last June me and my wife FROZE in SF. It was so cold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )) I like warm weather.
> 
> In related news, I also refresh my DHL page and magically hoping to see something like
> 
> " Your package is 5 mins away from your house, wait by the door "


Cold and windy


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> OK, so apparently nobody pays attention, so I'll post it again.


epic

we cant do that with our current stand so i will buy your standsoon.

Epic. Just epic.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Pshhh. I'm his neighbor.


No,you live in Fremont


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> New VGA?


Indeed. Arctic Twin Turbo II for my GTX 670









Just waiting on thermal tape to get here because there is no way I am using the thermal glue concoction that they included with the kit.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Indeed. Arctic Twin Turbo II for my GTX 670
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just waiting on thermal tape to get here because there is no way I am using the thermal glue concoction that they included with the kit.


Did I win something?








I'm waiting for 660ti


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> No,you live in Fremont


Nope. The closest DHL place is Fremont, I don't live there. I live in San Jose.

"Ahh man last June me and my wife FROZE in SF. It was so cold







)) I like warm weather.

In related news, I also refresh my DHL page and magically hoping to see something like

" Your package is 5 mins away from your house, wait by the door ""

It's not that cold, just wear a jacket.

Same here. And it said
"Quit checking, you're spamming our servers."


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Nope. The closest DHL place is Fremont, I don't live there. I live in San Jose.


Cool!
You live in silicon valley and buy pc component in Korea?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Did I win something?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm waiting for 660ti


Very good card. Worth waiting for.

And no. I don't have anything to give you







.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Very good card. Worth waiting for.
> And no. I don't have anything to give you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4869/nvidia_geforce_gtx_660_ti_2gb_reference_video_card_review/index1.html


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> http://www.tweaktown.com/reviews/4869/nvidia_geforce_gtx_660_ti_2gb_reference_video_card_review/index1.html


Yup, I saw that, lol. That's how I figured out it was a good card, lol.


----------



## Prymus

SO I've had huge issues. I won't say seller because it wasn't his fault. though his actions after have me perplexed a little. I hope that will smooth over later. I clicked buy and pay though paypal , like everyone else. However Ebay gives me an error and tells me i still needed to pay. In my zealousness to get the process I do this 4 times. Strange how I can type in my information faster than their system can update. So paypal/ ebay lets me pay 4 times for the monitor. I check today and call about it and they fixed it all but 1 of the charges...checked Ebay and the seller has cancelled the order. That is the perplexing part. I'm out 1200USD atm waiting on the slow wheels of payment reversal to occur. Isn't it odd how quickly they will take money but to give it back...Anyway I thought I would share. I did order another monitor from a different seller today. No issues that time, I did however use credit so I would have more protection than just paypal.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Ahh man last June me and my wife FROZE in SF. It was so cold
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )) I like warm weather.
> 
> In related news, I also refresh my DHL page and magically hoping to see something like
> 
> " Your package is 5 mins away from your house, wait by the door "


My F5 key is faded


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Yup, I saw that, lol. That's how I figured out it was a good card, lol.


It's a terrible card for $300. Look at AA performance in games that aren't 5 years old, It tanks and makes the 7850 look like the better buy if you use AA (why shouldn't you?). Also if you're looking to use the 660ti to game on a Catleap forget it. Look at the scores at 2560x1600.

TweakTown uses outdated games and an old version of Uniengine Heaven. Totally useless for testing current hardware.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Yes. Here's some pics for reference.
> This is the monitor at its lowest height:
> At its highest height:
> 
> Monitor at its highest height, rotated:


That is so dope I will post when I get my 3 monitors and my giant mount in a few weeks







still saving up the $1200


----------



## ivoryg37

I finally tried HDMI on on my Q270 today. Its running at 2560x1440! I just had to set a custom resolution for my GTX 670. However, I can't tell if its better than DVI since I didn't really know how to set it. I just put whatever it suggested to put on the first post under how to OC with nvidia. I use those resolution settings.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I finally tried HDMI on on my Q270 today. Its running at 2560x1440! I just had to set a custom resolution for my GTX 670. However, I can't tell if its better than DVI since I didn't really know how to set it. I just put whatever it suggested to put on the first post under how to OC with nvidia. I use those resolution settings.


DVI and HDMI are equivelant which is why adapters work pretty much without issue.

BTW: Q270 shouldn't have HDMI in, so you are using an adapter?


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I finally tried HDMI on on my Q270 today. Its running at 2560x1440! I just had to set a custom resolution for my GTX 670. However, I can't tell if its better than DVI since I didn't really know how to set it. I just put whatever it suggested to put on the first post under how to OC with nvidia. I use those resolution settings.


Lol, stupid me







I just created a custom 2560 x 1440 resolution in Nvidia Control panel and - voila, it works. 2560 x 1440 via HDMI.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> Lol, stupid me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just created a custom 2560 x 1440 resolution in Nvidia Control panel and - voila, it works. 2560 x 1440 via HDMI.


Yeah, did you follow the picture from the first post? http://cdn.overclock.net/7/73/539x541px-LL-739a9b10_9.jpeg

When I first did it, it was super blurry at 2560x1440 then I adjusted everything to look like that picture from the first post and now its super clear.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> DVI and HDMI are equivelant which is why adapters work pretty much without issue.
> BTW: Q270 shouldn't have HDMI in, so you are using an adapter?


Oh I meant to say Q270 Multi. I'm just using HDMI straight to the monitor. No adapters


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> Lol, stupid me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just created a custom 2560 x 1440 resolution in Nvidia Control panel and - voila, it works. 2560 x 1440 via HDMI.


also if you have a vga cable you can do it to with the multi model you just need to turn down the the refresh rate to 30Hz


----------



## gibonez

Received my catleap from the seller greensum today.

Regular no perfect pixel monitor and I have to say I got super lucky. No dead pixels, no dead stuck pixels, backlight is slightly brighter in the right corner but other than that monitor is perfect.

Awesome seller received the monitor in 3 days.


----------



## donmega1

Got my catleap today and max payne 3 and battlefield 3 look amazing on ultra with the max resolution, my gfx card is the gtx 680 4gb. Only one problem I have is that I am not sure if it's the calibrations fault or me not being used to led but the whites seem very gray. I am using the calibrations provided on the first page, what calibration settings are the best?


----------



## revlisoft

So I received my 2nd monitor from BCC with super fast delivery (ordered on Sunday). I wasn't as lucky with the 2nd one as there is just one stuck pixel in the upper left quadrant out of the entire display. Not too bad. I'm hoping it might get "unstuck". As some others have had doubts but I have an eVGA GTX 680 and use only the HDMI plug and run at a full 2560x1440 w/ audio. If you read the wiki HDMI 1.4 does support this resolution without any issue. It's either your graphics card or your cable that's the issue. Both of the received monitors works at the full resolution without any issue. No custom resolution or anything needed. It worked right out of the box w/o any changes required.

Here are some pics.



















I wanted to reuse the power/HDMI cable from my PC so I had to put it sideways. Behind that you can see the existing monitor on the ergotron.










The one stuck pixel


















Back of monitor showing power and HDMI cable only. I use the High Speed HDMI cable from monoprice which can do up to "4K - The 4K resolution is 3840 x 2160 pixels @ 24 Hz" : http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10240&cs_id=1024008&p_id=3872&seq=1&format=2










Picture showing HDMI at 2560x1440 @ 60Hz


----------



## huyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kently*
> 
> Anywho, I've got an MSI GTX670 to power the video card. The rest of my computer is pretty old... (IP35 pro, core2duo 6750 @ 3.6 GHZ, 4 gigs of ddr2 1066), however I think it'll be just fine. I'm super stoked about getting a monitor with such a high res, as a month ago I'd have thought such an acquisition would cost at least $750. Well, that's all I've got to say for the moment. I'll post again once I get it. Cheers!


haha just like me good ol 3670, even overclocked at same rate 3.6


----------



## tkgw

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Yeah, did you follow the picture from the first post? http://cdn.overclock.net/7/73/539x541px-LL-739a9b10_9.jpeg
> When I first did it, it was super blurry at 2560x1440 then I adjusted everything to look like that picture from the first post and now its super clear.


Nope, I just set the timing settings to "cvt reduced blanking" and it worked out.


----------



## tkgw

Nevermind please, just my reading skills failing me at 3:30 AM









P.S. So it's a cable or graphic card then.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> And he's the only one with a Q271 to report that yet.
> I say they are false advertising.
> And *you're trying to tell me these* *discarded Dell monitors beat the giants of the industry to the market with HDMI that can do 1440p?*
> Apple loves simplicity, but yet they haven't been able to get their Retina displays to run 2560 x 1440 HDMI yet...
> So while it is, by the technical standards possible to run such a resolution, *all monitors are internally limited for some reason, bandwidth most likely.*


You where saying ?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I finally *tried HDMI on on my Q270 today. Its running at 2560x1440!* I just had to set a custom resolution for my GTX 670. However, I can't tell if its better than DVI since I didn't really know how to set it. I just put whatever it suggested to put on the first post under how to OC with nvidia. I use those resolution settings.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tkgw*
> 
> Lol, stupid me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I just created a custom 2560 x 1440 resolution in Nvidia Control panel and - *voila, it works. 2560 x 1440 via HDMI.*


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revlisoft*
> 
> So I received my 2nd monitor from BCC with super fast delivery (ordered on Sunday). I wasn't as lucky with the 2nd one as there is just one stuck pixel in the upper left quadrant out of the entire display. Not too bad. I'm hoping it might get "unstuck". As some others have had doubts but I have an eVGA GTX 680 and *use only the HDMI plug and run at a full 2560x1440 w/ audio.* If you read the wiki HDMI 1.4 does support this resolution without any issue. It's either your graphics card or your cable that's the issue. Both of the received monitors works at the full resolution without any issue. No custom resolution or anything needed. It worked right out of the box w/o any changes required.
> Here are some pics.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanted to reuse the power/HDMI cable from my PC so I had to put it sideways. Behind that you can see the existing monitor on the ergotron.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The one stuck pixel
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Back of monitor showing power and HDMI cable only.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Picture showing HDMI at 2560x1440 @ 60Hz
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## SuprUsrStan

So my Catleap monitor just came in. It's got no dead pixels but it does have a bit of a light leakage / viewing angle problem. What I'm curious is what would this problem be classified as. It's not exactly light leakage as its very uniform but as soon as you move to a angle that's looking down on the bottom right corner, it gets bright. Straight on, it's fairly good. Is there such things as viewing angle problems?





Other than that, my monitor's perfect. Any thoughts about this problem?


----------



## JayXMonsta

found one on craiglists for 225 with a dead pixel should i get it?


----------



## pngo75

Hi there.
First time poster here.
I just got my catleap. It is all good.
I got the standard version and I was wondering has anyone tried any vga analog to hdmi adapter/converter/scaler on them?
I would like to connect my wii/x360/ps2 using the yuv component multi console cable that I have.
I was thinking about this kind of thing for instance: http://www.amazon.com/Component-video-YPbPr-Converter-Up-scale/dp/B0016SN49Y/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top


----------



## revlisoft

I would recommend to use this site to check for dead pixels. Use F11 to run in full screen.

http://www.doihaveadeadpixel.com/


----------



## SgtMonacle

I got a Q270 about a week ago; loving it so far. I'm having a problem though, and wondering whether anyone has any insight.

It seems to be shifting colors to yellow or blue around any really small vertical details (1-2 pixels). I only noticed it after installing an Ergotron LX arm a few days ago--as far as I know, that's when it started. I've tried re-seating the cables and internal connectors to no avail. Hard to get a picture, but here's trying...





Any thoughts? Thanks.


----------



## BoredErica

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














UPDATE UPDATE!









August 01, 2012
09:50

Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of Arrived at DHL facility in Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of

It is at the airport. So I guess NOW it's on the plane? Must be processed before going on plane, I bet. Sigh.


----------



## wkstar

To SgtMonacle
I turned off - Cleartype
Since Cleartype was for low resolution screen to help make the type look better

To Darkwizzie
Use 
http://www.packagemapping.com/
To track your box

To Asmodean & iARDAs
Get a Crossover or Catleap 2703 and You will not have to worry about stand problems
Either that or get a sturdier desk,, The $10.oo students desk from Big Lots may not be a good idea


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> found one on craiglists for 225 with a dead pixel should i get it?


Pickin it up


----------



## thanos999

first time ive seen the thread
i cant find the leaping cat where is it?


----------



## BoredErica

Ebay.

I wish there was a webcam so I can see what's happening to my shipment, LIVE. I want to hear the radio station the courier is playing.


----------



## weaveR

Is there much point of getting a HDMI 1.4a Q271 when it only supports 2560x1440 max resolution anyway?


----------



## BoredErica

Not really. I don't really see a point in using HDMI for monitors for desktop gaming, either. My opinion.


----------



## Chrisbes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Is there much point of getting a HDMI 1.4a Q271 when it only supports 2560x1440 max resolution anyway?


Get the DVI-DL only version. Less input lag.


----------



## ashyg

Just bought my first catleap.

Catleap 2703 LED IPS 27"

I've discovered what I believe to be about 15 stuck pixels, all in somewhat of a cluster on the hard right edge of the screen. All green or blue, about 5 bright ones, and 10 are very dull.

I ran a stuck pixel fixer (jscreenfix) and it removed maybe 2 of them.

In addition the monitor creates a dull buzzing noise when displaying pages that seem to have a lot of white, but I believe that is fixable, the choke + epoxy method.

I'd like to get your guys opinion, message green-sum and inquire about a return or leave it as is?
I'm not to fond of paying return shipping.

Thanks


----------



## BoredErica

I thought he'll pay shipping if it's defective?


----------



## joeh1974

Ok...just need a little clarification over what I've read on the last few pages.

So 2560x1440 will work over HDMI on a Q271...but also a Q270?
If it does work on a Q270...what about a 1.4a HDMI to DVI-D cable running to a Q270-Lite?

I have a MSI HD7950 card which supports 1.4a over HDMI, so I'm wondering if it's possible to get away with not having to purchase an active DP to DVI-D adapter?


----------



## ashyg

I've heard he pays shipping if its DOA. Im not sure about the (somewhat small?) defects on my panel.

On the ebay listing it states buyer pays return, but I guess theres exceptions


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> Ok...just need a little clarification over what I've read on the last few pages.
> So 2560x1440 will work over HDMI on a Q271...but also a Q270?
> If it does work on a Q270...what about a 1.4a HDMI to DVI-D cable running to a Q270-Lite?


no that will not work you need the multi model to get it to work I have the basic Catleap and a hdmi to dual link DVI cable won't work for me.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ashyg*
> 
> I've heard he pays shipping if its DOA. Im not sure about the (somewhat small?) defects on my panel.
> On the ebay listing it states buyer pays return, but I guess theres exceptions


But past a certain number of pixels it's considered 'defective'.


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> no that will not work you need the multi model to get it to work I have the basic Catleap and a hdmi to dual link DVI cable won't work for me.


Ok...thanks for the confirmation.


----------



## mscall92

Oh I can't wait till Monday! Bought a catleap Q270 SE on ebay and it should be here then. To be honest, I bought my first IPS monitor a month ago (Dell Ultrasharp U2412m [much better colors and viewing angles than my 120Hz monitors]) but I honestly can't stand playing battlefield on it. Compared to even my Viewsonic 1680x1050 first gen 120Hz monitor my KDR in most matches is down a lot much harder to do matches like http://battlelog.battlefield.com/bf3/battlereport/show/39429694/1/208064766/ (I'm MSCall92 by the way [hopefully obvious]). Thus my dilemma was whether I wanted to keep trying on my ultrasharp or just use one of my 120Hz monitors, and in the end I decided on...a....Catleap! God I'm excited since even 75Hz is much easier on my eyes than 60Hz. Now just to pray for a lack of dead pixels...wish me luck


----------



## BoredErica

I'm used to 60 hz. I guess the saying ' you don't know what you're missing ' and 'ignorance is bliss' apply for me here.

In related news: DHL Y U NO UPDATE
Still stuck in Korean airport.


----------



## iARDAs

Here is my shipment status


       6Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)11:33

5Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)10:56

4Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)09:50

3Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)19:48

2Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)19:47

1Shipment picked upSEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 


----------



## BoredErica

Mines is still stuck at step 4, same timestamp as yours. NO FAIR!


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Mines is still stuck at step 4, same timestamp as yours. NO FAIR!


Hmmm I guess my monitor is cooler. This might be the reason why mine is not stuck at step 4.

Mine is the Catleap Q270 V.I.P edition


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Hmmm I guess my monitor is cooler. This might be the reason why mine is not stuck at step 4.
> 
> Mine is the Catleap Q270 V.I.P edition


Bossed.









Does this mean my monitor missed the flight?


----------



## huyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Bossed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mean my monitor missed the flight?


zzz mine is stuck on step 4 aswell


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> zzz mine is stuck on step 4 aswell


Sounds like a troll. It better update tomorrow morning.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Bossed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does this mean my monitor missed the flight?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> zzz mine is stuck on step 4 aswell


Your monitors caught fooling around with each other and was punished by the Korean authorities. Expect delays.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Your monitors caught fooling around with each other and was punished by the Korean authorities. Expect delays.


Inappropriate behavior? I didn't know monitors can move. Lol.


----------



## huyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Sounds like a troll. It better update tomorrow morning.


what are chances of us receiving our monitors tomorrow?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> what are chances of us receiving our monitors tomorrow?


I'd guess 25-50%.







I don't know when it'll actually leave the airport; even then, it has to be shipping to us and that is the luck of the draw. Not feeling too optimistic right now though.


----------



## BoredErica

August 01, 2012
09:50

Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of Arrived at DHL facility in Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of
August 01, 2012
16:12

Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of Arrived at DHL facility in Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of
August 01, 2012
16:14

Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of Processed at Incheon International Airport - Korea, Republic of

UPDATE UPDATE ALERT ALERT!!!







*jumps up and down and claps hands*

6 hours after it arrives to the airport.... it arrives again?


----------



## huyyy

does anyone know if people are still receiving 2b versions or has it completely been cut off?


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> does anyone know if people are still receiving 2b versions or has it completely been cut off?


Months ago it was cut off, months.


----------



## Hydros

Which is the best reseller for these monitors? or is it just totake the cheapest possible?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Hey can someone with the muli model see if you can get 1440p over vga


----------



## Liamo Luo

Really interested in upping my monitor to a 1440p one, been using TN panels for 1080p for a while now. These monitors seem interesting but if I worked out import duty correctly for the UK it will run me almost £400 , and most resellers don't seem to offer returns either if anything is wrong with it. Any reason I should still risk spending up to £400 on one of these as opposed to just getting this? http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MO-013-HO


----------



## Mkilbride

IPS..

It's hard to go back to TN after having used IPS...I am using my TN Right now and it just feels wrong man. Everything feels wrong.

It's like when you first switched to LCD TV's from CRT? How bad the colors were, how washed out it was compared to CRT or Plasma?


----------



## iARDAs

I really hope I will like the IPS panels. I really hope so.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I really hope I will like the IPS panels. I really hope so.


Everything about IPS panels is superior, except response time..until these hit the market.

TN isn't an option after these. You're going to be really disappointed after using this for over a week and then looking at your 1080p LCD TV, you most likely have.

IT compares to my Plasma in many ways, except black levels.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

I'm starting to get really annoyed at the really awful backlight bleeding in the lower right corner. It didn't bother me much before because I rarely saw black screens, but I was watching the Timescape video, which, for those who haven't watched, include a lot of dark, black backgrounds. Only then did I really start noticing the backlight bleeding. I'm thinking of opening up the bezel and playing around with the tightness of the screws. Hopefully that'll get rid, or, at the very least, alleviate, the problem.


----------



## Mkilbride

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> I'm starting to get really annoyed at the really awful backlight bleeding in the lower right corner. It didn't bother me much before because I rarely saw black screens, but I was watching the Timescape video, which, for those who haven't watched, include a lot of dark, black backgrounds. Only then did I really start noticing the backlight bleeding. I'm thinking of opening up the bezel and playing around with the tightness of the screws. Hopefully that'll get rid, or, at the very least, alleviate, the problem.


It might help, or it might not. Just know doing so voids your Warranty.

And yeah, I had to send mine back because of it.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> It might help, or it might not. Just know doing so voids your Warranty.
> And yeah, I had to send mine back because of it.


I've already opened it up to install a new third-party mount. I have a feeling that after I installed it, I probably overtightened the screws, as I usually tend to do anyway.

BTW, when you sent it back, how long did it take until a replacement got shipped back? And were there extra charges tacked on? And how is the replacement...is it better?


----------



## Mkilbride

I wouldn't know.

I just shipped it today - A heft 75$ shipping.

But Accessorieswhole has said they will refund me the shipping charge once they receive it at their Warehouse.

Then, a week after they receive it, they will ship me a new one. I told them, in every single post, to check for backlight bleed, excessively, or else we'll be doing this dance again, and honestly? Only cost THEM more money. IF they'd take 10-15 minutes or so, checking backlight bleed, they could save themselves that 200$ Customs / Import tax.

Other than that, the monitor was perfect...no dead pixels, though I didn't go PP.

With my luck, next one will have no backlight bleed, but like 140 dead pixels.

If my next one has terrible backlight bleed again - I'll just say I want a full refund this time, not a replacement.

The monitor was just so amazing, just like...wow. I mean, 24'' 1200p, to 27'', 1440', feels like going from DVD to 1080p. ;P

The difference is just there...

So beautiful.

Also, you seem to have Tempered Glass, remember that can cause issues as well. Looks really nice, but eh, stuck dirt, reflections and extra weight on the panel.

Seriously, you have one spec on the corner and you find it annoying?

Try this...


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> I wouldn't know.
> I just shipped it today - A heft 75$ shipping.
> But Accessorieswhole has said they will refund me the shipping charge once they receive it at their Warehouse.
> Then, a week after they receive it, they will ship me a new one. I told them, in every single post, to check for backlight bleed, excessively, or else we'll be doing this dance again, and honestly? Only cost THEM more money. IF they'd take 10-15 minutes or so, checking backlight bleed, they could save themselves that 200$ Customs / Import tax.
> Other than that, the monitor was perfect...no dead pixels, though I didn't go PP.
> With my luck, next one will have no backlight bleed, but like 140 dead pixels.
> If my next one has terrible backlight bleed again - I'll just say I want a full refund this time, not a replacement.
> The monitor was just so amazing, just like...wow. I mean, 24'' 1200p, to 27'', 1440', feels like going from DVD to 1080p. ;P
> The difference is just there...
> So beautiful.
> Also, you seem to have Tempered Glass, remember that can cause issues as well. Looks really nice, but eh, stuck dirt, reflections and extra weight on the panel.
> Seriously, you have one spec on the corner and you find it annoying?
> Try this...


That is awful backlight bleeding, lol. Your top left is what my bottom right looks like right now, although not nearly that bad.

And yes, I do have the tempered glass. Took the risk, but ended up getting zero dust. Don't really care about reflections either.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mkilbride*
> 
> Everything about IPS panels is superior, except response time..until these hit the market.
> TN isn't an option after these. You're going to be really disappointed after using this for over a week and then looking at your 1080p LCD TV, you most likely have.
> IT compares to my Plasma in many ways, except black levels.


Ahhh good to know. I am so praying for a great monitor. It is a bigger hassle to return this item to Korea for us people here in Turkey. Honestly.. 

By the way guys my monitor is In Germany


----------



## wakame

I have an XFX 7950, is it compatible with this monitor?


----------



## nathanak21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wakame*
> 
> I have an XFX 7950, is it compatible with this monitor?


Yes. Most video cards are.


----------



## cmdrdredd

My backlight bleed doesnt seem that bad. I can't backup that far from the screen though to see it like that. However, I did play some Batman arkham city and it is very dark in that game. With my lights off I was not distracted by it so maybe I got lucky or just dont get bothered by it that much.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Hey can someone with the muli model see if you can get 1440p over vga


Highly doubt it. VGA's bandwith isn't enough I believe. Even for DVI, a DVID is required.


----------



## iARDAs

@ Darkwizzie

my monitor is in Germany. Where is yours?


----------



## BoredErica

Mines is on an airplane.









9:50 arrived at airport
16:12 arrived at airport (WHAT?)
16:14 processed
22:24 left


----------



## iARDAs

Cool

I wonder if mine will be shipped to Turkey tonight or not. It is 18:13 in Germany so They might send it at night.


----------



## BoredErica

I'TS NOT FAIR!!!!








Our monitors were meant to see the world together!


----------



## iARDAs

Sorry mate. She is with another monitor right now.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Sorry mate. She is with another monitor right now.


How do you know its a female? Lol.

And I like how it took them 5+ hours to go from processed to onboard airplane and it took you half an hour.


----------



## iARDAs

I know it because i named my Monitor "Rachel Starr" (dont tell my wife, she knows my monitor as just a monitor without a name)

Also here is the entire trip of my Rachel


  Tuesday, July 31, 2012LocationTime  7Arrived at Sort Facility LEIPZIG - GERMANYLEIPZIG - GERMANY17:22

6Departed Facility in INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)11:33

5Processed at INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)10:56

4Arrived at Sort Facility INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)INCHEON OUTSKIRT OF SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)09:50

3Departed Facility in SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)19:48

2Processed at SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)SEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.)19:47

1Shipment picked upSEOUL - KOREA, REPUBLIC OF (SOUTH K.) 


----------



## BoredErica

I'm starting to think the chances of me getting the monitor is growing quite slim. Maybe tomorrow. It's 9:27 am, monitor left facility for 2-3 hours, prolly take twice that or more than that to get to US, assuming it gets to my side of US, still has to be processed and delivered.


----------



## plum

Wow you guys have been posting about your tracking status for the past 2 pages.









You'll receive it, relax!


----------



## donmega1

Anyone know if the greensum ones are overclockable? Also where can i get the driver download for this monitor, searched google and this thread and cannot find it.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Wow you guys have been posting about your tracking status for the past 2 pages.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You'll receive it, relax!


One can not relax for his 1st IPS panel. Also I am scared of the customs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donmega1*
> 
> Anyone know if the greensum ones are overclockable? Also where can i get the driver download for this monitor, searched google and this thread and cannot find it.


99% nope.


----------



## Chrisbes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donmega1*
> 
> Anyone know if the greensum ones are overclockable? Also where can i get the driver download for this monitor, searched google and this thread and cannot find it.


They may be slightly overclockable - around 5hz. This is because they use a new revision circuit board.

The old monitors used a 2B board, which was overclockable. These monitors command quite a high premium.


----------



## ivoryg37

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donmega1*
> 
> Anyone know if the greensum ones are overclockable? Also where can i get the driver download for this monitor, searched google and this thread and cannot find it.


You sure you search this thread for the driver? Its in the first post lol


----------



## eagle132

So I have a couple questions here that I cannot seem to find direct answers to pertaining to triple catleaps. Sorry if any of this is a repost!

So I built a new desktop last weekend with two SLI EVGA Geforce GTX 670 Overclocked 4GB cards.

Questions:
1) Can these two cards run 3 Catleaps? If so, how would I hook them up since I believe these cards only each have 1 DVI-D port each?

2) I know there is a post about power bricks on the OG post, but I have also read that you can simply use the supplied power block and buy a new generic AC cable, such as this, to stick in it. Is this true or were those people wrong?

3) I know a lot of people are replacing the stands. That's cool, but can I buy a triple-stand and hook all 3 monitors up to it at once? Or is this not doable or feasible either because of the hugeness of the monitors or because they simply cannot be hooked up to a triple stand?

Thanks so much!


----------



## unpwnntent

Hello gang,

I logged back onto my really REALLY old overclock account to say that I just ordered A Catleap Q270 SE Perfect Pixel today from green-sum and looking to get it shopped here to Toronto, Canada. Will post any updates and pictures when it does arrive. I'm a student of graphic and motion design and this will hopefully be a worthwhile investment









Cheers, and thanks for the super-duper threads on these Korean monitors. I couldn't have found them at a better time.


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donmega1*
> 
> Anyone know if the greensum ones are overclockable? Also where can i get the driver download for this monitor, searched google and this thread and cannot find it.


No Special Drivers Needed
Your ATI or Nvidia Card will automatically see it as 2560X1440


----------



## The viking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagle132*
> 
> 3) I know a lot of people are replacing the stands. That's cool, but can I buy a triple-stand and hook all 3 monitors up to it at once? Or is this not doable or feasible either because of the hugeness of the monitors or because they simply cannot be hooked up to a triple stand?
> Thanks so much!


I just hooked my first catleap up to a triple-stand today actually! All you have to do, is to remove the silver"arch" on the back, and there you go, 75x75mm vesa mount. Works like a charm, as long as you follow this club's guide on how to open the monitor(sticky on 1st page). All in all, YES you can. As long as the triple-mount you have, can handle 15lbs/7kg x3 monitors, AND the fact that they are all 27". I have this stand http://shop.easymountlcd.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Stand-Desktop-Clamp-up-to-28-002-0019-002-0019.htm, and it atleast says that it can handle 3x27"


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Cool
> 
> I wonder if mine will be shipped to Turkey tonight or not. It is 18:13 in Germany so They might send it at night.


My monitor is on the moon


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> My monitor is on the moon


My monitor went from the Kupider belt, and is now circling one of Jupiter's moons.

No, really. It's still air-born right now, going to California (HOPEFULLY). I'll give it another 5 hours before it lands. It'll probably take them forever to update the status, though.

Horrible meme time!


----------



## eagle132

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The viking*
> 
> I just hooked my first catleap up to a triple-stand today actually! All you have to do, is to remove the silver"arch" on the back, and there you go, 75x75mm vesa mount. Works like a charm, as long as you follow this club's guide on how to open the monitor(sticky on 1st page). All in all, YES you can. As long as the triple-mount you have, can handle 15lbs/7kg x3 monitors, AND the fact that they are all 27". I have this stand http://shop.easymountlcd.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Stand-Desktop-Clamp-up-to-28-002-0019-002-0019.htm, and it atleast says that it can handle 3x27"


Ah that's awesome! Thanks for the link!

So, how are you hooking up all 3 monitors to your video card or cards? Do your cards somehow have 3 DVI-D ports?

Also, what are you doing for power?


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> I finally tried HDMI on on my Q270 today. Its running at 2560x1440! I just had to set a custom resolution for my GTX 670. However, I can't tell if its better than DVI since I didn't really know how to set it. I just put whatever it suggested to put on the first post under how to OC with nvidia. I use those resolution settings.


Very well !! unlike the technical specifications


----------



## The viking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagle132*
> 
> Ah that's awesome! Thanks for the link!
> So, how are you hooking up all 3 monitors to your video card or cards? Do your cards somehow have 3 DVI-D ports?
> Also, what are you doing for power?


I'm sorry for misleading you! I currently only own one catleap, but ofcourse thinking about buying another 2 for the sheer awesome'ness of 3x27", and not to forget the low price of such a setup! But, that put aside. The only way I can imagine this working, is if you swap out the two cards you currently have, and go for one 680, or maybe two since you are thinking about running a tri-setup. With those, I guess(don't quote me on this) you can use one DP/mini-DP adapter to DVI-D, and connect the three this way. But again.. I'm not sure about that.
But.. before you do this, I would reccommend you start with buying one of theese badboys. The amazing res you get, is quite enough already. This is my advice, if you are coming from something like a 24" or less.

Edit: Forgot to answer you about the power question:
I guess you are asking about the power cord, and that brick that comes with the monitor. I was not able to use a normal power cable. The monitor uses a 12v "entrance" cable, so replacing the brick is not an option. Replacing the power cable that runs from your socket to your power-brick however, is most likely a solution that would work. Hope I answered your question right


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Can we please not post - my monitor is here, there, no where? There are hundreds of those here and it seriously clogs up the thread. If you want to chat with someone regarding your monitor status etc, please use the PM system.

This thread is meant to answer questions, help troubleshoot, etc. not to track your monitor.

Thanks for understanding.


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagle132*
> 
> So I have a couple questions here that I cannot seem to find direct answers to pertaining to triple catleaps. Sorry if any of this is a repost!
> So I built a new desktop last weekend with two SLI EVGA Geforce GTX 670 Overclocked 4GB cards.
> Questions:
> 1) Can these two cards run 3 Catleaps? If so, how would I hook them up since I believe these cards only each have 1 DVI-D port each?


You are confusing DVI-D with DVI- DL. your cards have 2 DVI dual link ports (both of which can run a catleap) the 670's have 1 DVI-D and one DVI-I *D means digital (the signal output) and I means both analog and digital* long story short yes... you can run all 3 without an adapter needed.

Unlike ATI which requires you to run all monitors off of one card, Nvidia allows mutliple inputs on multiple cards. So you could hook up 2 monitors to card 1 via DVI-D and DVI-I (both being dual link) and the 3rd monitor from the 2nd card using either the DVI-D or DVI-I port.

Hope this helps!


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eagle132*
> 
> So I have a couple questions here that I cannot seem to find direct answers to pertaining to triple catleaps. Sorry if any of this is a repost!
> So I built a new desktop last weekend with two SLI EVGA Geforce GTX 670 Overclocked 4GB cards.
> Questions:
> 1) Can these two cards run 3 Catleaps? If so, how would I hook them up since I believe these cards only each have 1 DVI-D port each?
> 2) I know there is a post about power bricks on the OG post, but I have also read that you can simply use the supplied power block and buy a new generic AC cable, such as this, to stick in it. Is this true or were those people wrong?
> 3) I know a lot of people are replacing the stands. That's cool, but can I buy a triple-stand and hook all 3 monitors up to it at once? Or is this not doable or feasible either because of the hugeness of the monitors or because they simply cannot be hooked up to a triple stand?
> Thanks so much!


1) Each card has TWO Dual Link DVI ports that are capable of running this monitor. One is DVI-I and other is DVI-D. EIther will work.

2)The latest power bricks are 110v-220v so they work with any 3 pin power cable (same cable you plug into your PSU).

3)It depends on what stand in particular and the measurements. I wouldn't be much help here, but you can probably get someone to measure the distance between the side and the VESA mount on the monitor and determine if there's a stand that will work for you.


----------



## SuprUsrStan

A day after getting my Catleap Q270, I have to say I'm quite satisfied. My monitor didn't come with any dead, gray, or stuck pixels. I ordered a regular ~$300 basic Catleap without the glass or speakers from Green-Sum via Ebay. However, I do have a bit of light bleeding / viewing angle issue with the bottom right hand corner. While looking at it straight on, the effect is minimal. When looking down from an angle, it is might more significant.

First a straight on shot with minmal light bleed.


Second shot viewing at an angle. Notice the light bleed from the bottom right hand corner.


I had a slight lean in the monitor stand so I picked up a desk stand from Monoprice for $20. AMAZING product. To be honest, the mount was probably a better deal than the entire monitor.








My desk doesn't have a big enough lip for me to mount an arm so I had to go with the stand style mount. All in all, it great.
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2



I followed the stand disassembly outlined in the first post. Getting the front pannel off was the hardest part. I was afraid of ruining the front pannel to apply any appreciable force. I finally figure out the best way to leverage it off. If it weren't clear in the first post, the best way to get it open is to leverage the screwdriver at this angle.



After removing the front bezel, continuing with the stand disassembly, you have to remove the actual LCD from the back pannel. The LCD portion of the monitor is pretty much the entire weight of the monitor. I didn't realize and I accidentally dropped it inches from the mount to the table. Thank god it didn't break >.<



Lastly, a couple pictures of the monitor with the stand attached. Notice how large the footprint is on the table. Originally the monitor stand was designed for a maximum size of 23" inches. No matter, the stand easily handles the 27" Catleap. Even with such a big monitor on this stand, it's rock solid. The footprint is almost as wide as the monitor. From the looks of it though if you were going dual or triple monitor, the stand is still too wide to put the monitors side by side. It'd fight just perfectly if you had the monitors in a straight line but it wouldn't fit if you planned to have it curve around around.







Overall, 9/10 on the monitor. 0 dead pixels but a little bit of light bleading.

10/10 on the stand.


----------



## exhibitO

I feel like my monitor was calibrated out the box, it looks too good. But I'm curious to what the color calibration post in pg1 of this thread will do.

Did anyone see big improvements?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> I feel like my monitor was calibrated out the box, it looks too good. But I'm curious to what the color calibration post in pg1 of this thread will do.
> Did anyone see big improvements?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


The monitors tend to be slightly on the green side. If you try out the profiles you'll see the difference.


----------



## ashyg

My catleap makes the buzzing sound, mainly on bright web pages.

I assume I can do the choke + glue fix.

However, I always have music on so cant actually hear it... my question is does the buzzing create any actual damage if left? Or do people fix it purely just to stop the sound.

Thanks


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> A day after getting my Catleap Q270, I have to say I'm quite satisfied. My monitor didn't come with any dead, gray, or stuck pixels. I ordered a regular ~$300 basic Catleap without the glass or speakers from Green-Sum via Ebay. However, I do have a bit of light bleeding / viewing angle issue with the bottom right hand corner. While looking at it straight on, the effect is minimal. When looking down from an angle, it is might more significant.
> First a straight on shot with minmal light bleed.
> 
> Second shot viewing at an angle. Notice the light bleed from the bottom right hand corner.
> 
> I had a slight lean in the monitor stand so I picked up a desk stand from Monoprice for $20. AMAZING product. To be honest, the mount was probably a better deal than the entire monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My desk doesn't have a big enough lip for me to mount an arm so I had to go with the stand style mount. All in all, it great.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> 
> I followed the stand disassembly outlined in the first post. Getting the front pannel off was the hardest part. I was afraid of ruining the front pannel to apply any appreciable force. I finally figure out the best way to leverage it off. If it weren't clear in the first post, the best way to get it open is to leverage the screwdriver at this angle.
> 
> After removing the front bezel, continuing with the stand disassembly, you have to remove the actual LCD from the back pannel. The LCD portion of the monitor is pretty much the entire weight of the monitor. I didn't realize and I accidentally dropped it inches from the mount to the table. Thank god it didn't break >.<
> 
> Lastly, a couple pictures of the monitor with the stand attached. Notice how large the footprint is on the table. Originally the monitor stand was designed for a maximum size of 23" inches. No matter, the stand easily handles the 27" Catleap. Even with such a big monitor on this stand, it's rock solid. The footprint is almost as wide as the monitor. From the looks of it though if you were going dual or triple monitor, the stand is still too wide to put the monitors side by side. It'd fight just perfectly if you had the monitors in a straight line but it wouldn't fit if you planned to have it curve around around.
> 
> 
> 
> Overall, 9/10 on the monitor. 0 dead pixels but a little bit of light bleading.
> 10/10 on the stand.


From your pictures I would say what you are seeing looks more like IPS glow than light bleed. My Catleap has light bleed and it looks consistent from any angle.
I may try taking it apart soon to see if I can do anything about it.


----------



## donmega1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> No Special Drivers Needed
> Your ATI or Nvidia Card will automatically see it as 2560X1440


Ah ok, it was under my impression that I need the drivers in order to try over clocking the monitor.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donmega1*
> 
> Ah ok, it was under my impression that I need the drivers in order to try over clocking the monitor.


That's only if you want to overclock the monitor with ATI. Not necessary for the regular Catleap.


----------



## Clay259

Ordered my monitor Saturday afternoon from green-sum and received it today. Very fast shipping. Still waiting on other computer parts to come in before I finish my build and try it out. The stand is definitely wobbly but nothing too severe. I initially posted that I ordered from dream - seller, but I actually ordered from green- sum.....so embarrassed...anyway I like the white finish, it looks great. I'll post pics later.


----------



## meursault

Both of mine arrived this afternoon. I ordered from bigclothcraft. Both had minimal light bleeding (not noticeable to none - I'll check later when it is dark - it appears to be mainly a viewing angle thing for a totally dark screen) and zero dead pixels. I ordered a zero dead pixel display but did not see in zero dot sticker on the box (though I did end up with zero dead pixels). I don't know if this means bigclothcraft checks them individually or how it works but either way I am happy with the result.

The stand has the same issues that have been discussed at great length but in all honesty it is not bad at all. I may still get some monoprice stands or whatever. He claimed he was going to send me an SE rather than a regular but I ended up getting a regular (which I ordered to start out with) with speakers anyway (maybe he tested a regular and found it had zero dead pixels and sent it on). I haven't tested the speakers yet but I may at some point.

The only issue I had was one of the dvi cables was slightly bent on one of the ends. I fixed this myself and did not have to purchase a dvi-d cable myself.

Overall I am very happy with these monitors and that I was able to afford these instead of a lower resolution, lower quality or fewer monitors.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *donmega1*
> 
> Ah ok, it was under my impression that I need the drivers in order to try over clocking the monitor.


Overclocking the things is a fairly involved process, and the overclockable "2B" versions (that overclock more than 5Hz) are no longer being sold on eBay. You would go through all of that to maybe squeeze 5Hz out, not worth messing with IMHO.

To overclock, you have to download a custom, unsigned driver, a utility to let you run the unsigned driver in Windows, set up a custom screen resolution/refresh, and you end up with a little block of text in the bottom of your monitor that says "Test Mode - Windows 7 - Build 7601". And then hope your monitor/cable/other stuff will even support the overclock.

It's worth the hassle to get to 120Hz, but it's basically certain that you won't get more than 65Hz - at best.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Overclocking the things is a fairly involved process, and the overclockable "2B" versions (that overclock more than 5Hz) are no longer being sold on eBay. You would go through all of that to maybe squeeze 5Hz out, not worth messing with IMHO.
> To overclock, you have to download a custom, unsigned driver, a utility to let you run the unsigned driver in Windows, set up a custom screen resolution/refresh, and you end up with a little block of text in the bottom of your monitor that says "Test Mode - Windows 7 - Build 7601". And then hope your monitor/cable/other stuff will even support the overclock.
> It's worth the hassle to get to 120Hz, but it's basically certain that you won't get more than 65Hz - at best.


Not true with Nvidia. You just create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel at the desired refresh rate.
With ATI you just need to download a modified graphics driver.


----------



## plum

It's partially true. I needed the driver so certain games would let me select a higher refresh rate than 60Hz. However, I don't have the Test Mode watermark lol, you can just remove it after


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Not true with Nvidia. You just create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel at the desired refresh rate.
> With ATI you just need to download a modified graphics driver.


OK, I was just going by the steps in the OP. There's also a video online showing the steps HyperMatrix used to OC the monitor, and he was running a Nvidia GTX 680. That's what I did on my 2B/680 combo and it worked, so maybe all that's not needed, but these guys sort of wrote the book on these things so that's what I did.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> , I don't have the Test Mode watermark lol, you can just remove it after


How do you do that? The video ended and everything was working, but they never said how to remove the Test Mode watermark.

Remove the Test Mode Watermark! Win a cotton candy goat!


----------



## Majorhi

I was taking a look at these and was wondering if their was a difference between a Yamakasi Catleap 2703 and a Yamakasi Catleap Q270?


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> From your pictures I would say what you are seeing looks more like IPS glow than light bleed. My Catleap has light bleed and it looks consistent from any angle.
> I may try taking it apart soon to see if I can do anything about it.


You're right, I'm experiencing IPS glow. The strange thing is that I only get moderate glow when looking from the top down towards the right. Looking from the right to the left is perfectly fine. That's why it seems only the bottom right hand corner is affected so its uneven.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> OK, I was just going by the steps in the OP. There's also a video online showing the steps HyperMatrix used to OC the monitor, and he was running a Nvidia GTX 680. That's what I did on my 2B/680 combo and it worked, so maybe all that's not needed, but these guys sort of wrote the book on these things so that's what I did.


I know but all that is a bit old. I've talked to Hyper, Toasty, and Scribby recently and they use the method I described.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> I know but all that is a bit old. I've talked to Hyper, Toasty, and Scribby recently and they use the method I described.


Maybe they should edit the OP to keep some other guy from going through all that...and I still can't figure out how to the the Test Mode watermark off.


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> I was taking a look at these and was wondering if their was a difference between a Yamakasi Catleap 2703 and a Yamakasi Catleap Q270?


2703 = Tempered Glass, Nice Stand,

Q270= No Glass, Stand with that curved silver thing in the back


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> 2703 = Tempered Glass, Nice Stand,
> Q270= No Glass, Stand with that curved silver thing in the back


Been debating on getting one of these for the past month. So today I took a leap of faith and ordered one, the 2703.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> 2703 = Tempered Glass, Nice Stand,
> Q270= No Glass, Stand with that curved silver thing in the back


The multi model is so much more on the new models to







I wanted the new ones but it was so much more.


----------



## BoredErica

Why doesn't any company make a 120hz IPS 27 incher? I figured Dell would do something like that. Pretty sad to see laptops use glossy displays but desktop monitors not have that by default. Pretty ironic IMO. Antiglare will make me very angry.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Why doesn't any company make a 120hz IPS 27 incher? I figured Dell would do something like that. Pretty sad to see laptops use glossy displays but desktop monitors not have that by default. Pretty ironic IMO. Antiglare will make me very angry.


As long as people buy TN panels 120hz there is a market for it...

I myself think they should just phase TN panels out.. and do all Ips.. 60hz / 120hz etc etc..
The IPS screen is night and day better..


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I still can't figure out how to the the Test Mode watermark off.


Just uninstall dseo13b, you don't need it anymore. I'm pretty sure there is an option to take it off as well.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Syan48306*
> 
> A day after getting my Catleap Q270, I have to say I'm quite satisfied. My monitor didn't come with any dead, gray, or stuck pixels. I ordered a regular ~$300 basic Catleap without the glass or speakers from Green-Sum via Ebay. However, I do have a bit of light bleeding / viewing angle issue with the bottom right hand corner. While looking at it straight on, the effect is minimal. When looking down from an angle, it is might more significant.
> First a straight on shot with minmal light bleed.
> [snip]
> Second shot viewing at an angle. Notice the light bleed from the bottom right hand corner.
> [snip]
> I had a slight lean in the monitor stand so I picked up a desk stand from Monoprice for $20. AMAZING product. To be honest, the mount was probably a better deal than the entire monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My desk doesn't have a big enough lip for me to mount an arm so I had to go with the stand style mount. All in all, it great.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> [snip]
> I followed the stand disassembly outlined in the first post. Getting the front pannel off was the hardest part. I was afraid of ruining the front pannel to apply any appreciable force. I finally figure out the best way to leverage it off. If it weren't clear in the first post, the best way to get it open is to leverage the screwdriver at this angle.
> [snip]
> After removing the front bezel, continuing with the stand disassembly, you have to remove the actual LCD from the back pannel. The LCD portion of the monitor is pretty much the entire weight of the monitor. I didn't realize and I accidentally dropped it inches from the mount to the table. Thank god it didn't break >.<
> [snip]
> Lastly, a couple pictures of the monitor with the stand attached. Notice how large the footprint is on the table. Originally the monitor stand was designed for a maximum size of 23" inches. No matter, the stand easily handles the 27" Catleap. Even with such a big monitor on this stand, it's rock solid. The footprint is almost as wide as the monitor. From the looks of it though if you were going dual or triple monitor, the stand is still too wide to put the monitors side by side. It'd fight just perfectly if you had the monitors in a straight line but it wouldn't fit if you planned to have it curve around around.
> [snip]
> Overall, 9/10 on the monitor. 0 dead pixels but a little bit of light bleading.
> 10/10 on the stand.


Really? I hated that stand. Ended up throwing it on my old 24" and getting the Acer 3M stand instead. I hate how you have to unscrew the little screws on the back to get it perfectly adjusted.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> 2703 = Tempered Glass, Nice Stand,
> Q270= No Glass, Stand with that curved silver thing in the back


No, the new stand still sucks.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> As long as people buy TN panels 120hz there is a market for it...
> I myself think they should just phase TN panels out.. and do all Ips.. 60hz / 120hz etc etc..
> The IPS screen is night and day better..


Trust me, the general public won't buy them. I know gamers that spend cash on their hardware and completely neglect their monitor. Which is quite dumb because at the end of the day, what displays your game with graphics all turned up? YOUR MONITOR.

None of my PC gamer/computer lover friends know what an IPS is. They've built their own PCs, too.









Although, the people on here might because we know our stuff! (Collectively)


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Not true with Nvidia. You just create a custom resolution in the Nvidia control panel at the desired refresh rate.
> With ATI you just need to download a modified graphics driver.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Overclocking the things is a fairly involved process, and the overclockable "2B" versions (that overclock more than 5Hz) are no longer being sold on eBay. You would go through all of that to maybe squeeze 5Hz out, not worth messing with IMHO.
> To overclock, you have to download a custom, unsigned driver, a utility to let you run the unsigned driver in Windows, set up a custom screen resolution/refresh, and you end up with a little block of text in the bottom of your monitor that says "Test Mode - Windows 7 - Build 7601". And then hope your monitor/cable/other stuff will even support the overclock.
> It's worth the hassle to get to 120Hz, but it's basically certain that you won't get more than 65Hz - at best.


No driver needed for ATI , I just used the CRU tool to add custom refresh rates, reboot and select one- That was it


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Trust me, the general public won't buy them. I know gamers that spend cash on their hardware and completely neglect their monitor. Which is quite dumb because at the end of the day, what displays your game with graphics all turned up? YOUR MONITOR.
> None of my PC gamer/computer lover friends know what an IPS is. They've built their own PCs, too.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although, the people on here might because we know our stuff! (Collectively)


In the crt days people did not know what an LCD was to.. It is all about marketing.. something is better adjust the price and make it friendly to the market move the lessor panel out...

Give the better panel all the options the consumer wants match the prices making there no reason to buy the lessor product.

They did it to Plasma and crt no reason why they cant do it to TN.. heck a Crt has a better picture then a TN panel lol.

Heck i got a 22inch Sun Micro systems CRTl from 1999 in the closet as my back up cause i cant stand the dull look of a TN panel..


----------



## zzTroyzz

I got mine mounted, I'm very happy with it!



As far as removing the OEM stand, I found using a 2inch plastic putty knife was gentle on separating the monitor housing, once I got it figured out it went pretty quick and easy and left no marks. Be careful of over-torquing the screws when you put it back together.

In terms of screen performance, no dead pixels. I'm not sure if its just IPS glow or if its backlight bleed, on a black screen the bottom corners seem to glow a bit, but if I center myself to them, it disappears. Other than that it looks like there is a very faint bit of yellowing along the the bottom 10% of the panel, quite hard to see, and I'm not entirely sure if I'm imagining it or not









The stock DVI-D cable that came in the box works great, but just reaches, I'd like to replace it with something maybe 2ft longer (so I can pull my pc out from the wall!), would anyone have any recommendations for a cheap, reasonable quality cable in Canada? I'm thinking of maybe just going down to Canada Computers and picking one up there.


----------



## BoredErica

If it changes when you move, I'm pretty sure it's IPS glow.

I've forgotten what a CRT looks like.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzTroyzz*
> 
> I got mine mounted, I'm very happy with it!
> 
> As far as removing the OEM stand, I found using a 2inch plastic putty knife was gentle on separating the monitor housing, once I got it figured out it went pretty quick and easy and left no marks. Be careful of over-torquing the screws when you put it back together.
> In terms of screen performance, no dead pixels. I'm not sure if its just IPS glow or if its backlight bleed, on a black screen the bottom corners seem to glow a bit, but if I center myself to them, it disappears. Other than that it looks like there is a very faint bit of yellowing along the the bottom 10% of the panel, quite hard to see, and I'm not entirely sure if I'm imagining it or not
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The stock DVI-D cable that came in the box works great, but just reaches, I'd like to replace it with something maybe 2ft longer (so I can pull my pc out from the wall!), would anyone have any recommendations for a cheap, reasonable quality cable in Canada? I'm thinking of maybe just going down to Canada Computers and picking one up there.


http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2759&seq=1&format=2


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> As long as people buy TN panels 120hz there is a market for it...
> I myself think they should just phase TN panels out.. and do all Ips.. 60hz / 120hz etc etc..
> The IPS screen is night and day better..


IPS is too expensive. Mostly I think because Apple, Dell, HP and others make it so. I highly doubt LG charges $700 for an A+ IPS Panel. They charge $1000 for a 27" IPS because people who use them for professional work will pay it. They don't expect the average computer user to know the difference and a TN at "Full HD 1080p with 120hz smooth motion!" is enough to sell a ton of $360 screens.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> IPS is too expensive. Mostly I think because Apple, Dell, HP and others make it so. I highly doubt LG charges $700 for an A+ IPS Panel. They charge $1000 for a 27" IPS because people who use them for professional work will pay it. They don't expect the average computer user to know the difference and a TN at "Full HD 1080p with 120hz smooth motion!" is enough to sell a ton of $360 screens.


Why it is time for a big change in prices.. over the next few years.. with these Korean driving down the sells of the big guys.. the price market will have to come way down..
And may make the panels marketable to the Avg Consumer...

Just think of a 55inch 120hz Ips TV...


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> IPS is too expensive. Mostly I think because Apple, Dell, HP and others make it so. I highly doubt LG charges $700 for an A+ IPS Panel. They charge $1000 for a 27" IPS because people who use them for professional work will pay it. They don't expect the average computer user to know the difference and a TN at "Full HD 1080p with 120hz smooth motion!" is enough to sell a ton of $360 screens.


As it stands for the big vendors (and people who only go for big vendors probably only buy computers from Best Buy), IPS are for professionals since they got 1.07 billion colors and have bad response. Maybe a company can cheapen their monitors and try to make a more "Korean style" IPS, and see how that will sell? Seems sad there's no 1440 monitor with 120 hz and so much more would be doable if the big vendors compete and push for IPS in gamging.


----------



## Hokies83

I have a Samsung 50inch i paid 2700$ for this year for the family room.. 120hz 3d Samsungs best TV at the time... My 280$ computer panel from Korea curb stomps it..

Im tempted to just sell it.. and replace it with a Vizio or something lol.


----------



## praxis248

I received my Q270 from bigclothcraft today. The panel is wonderful with no dead pixels and no noticeable backlight bleeding.

The only thing I noticed was that the left side was a bit brighter than the right side, which after searching seems to be a common issue. It's only evident with a white background. The issue is not really noticeable enough to be distracting, and some day I may do the soldering fix on the PCB. But right now I'm fairly happy, especially after paying a ridiculously low amount of money for this monitor.

The power brick I received was a Welltronics, which only gets warm, not hot.

I've replaced my aging Dell 2405FPW PVA with the Q270. The Catleap is a perfect compliment to my 120hz Samsung S27950D, which I use for gaming and video.

Thanks for all the info, guys!


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SidEvolution*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I recently bought a Catleap Q270 SE and I've been trying to get it to work on my laptop for some time. Originally I plugged it in and it gave me an immediate BSOD error - "Bad pool header". I thought of the many reg-edits as well as other customization I did with my OS so I have re-installed my OS and just did all of the updates / driver-installation. I know that the monitor only had a DVi-D dual link port which was fine since I acquired a 'high-speed hdmi cable' that is suppose to support up to 1440p. I connected this an adapter for dvi-d dual link and it proceeded to recognize it and not crash immediately. It simply keeps a green-flashing light.
> My laptop is a Asus K53SV with i5-2410 (I believe). Intel HD graphics 3000 and nvidia geforce gt 540m, both of which claim to support 1440p (up to 1600p actually). I have done a complete clean install with my drivers. I will be doing another clean install momentarily since I was able to do 'Show screen on second display" as well as "extend displays' options before one of the drivers was installed and now it does not allow me to do either. It states: "Unable to save settings".
> I have tested the monitor out with the DVI-D cable it came with on a crappier desktop in my basement. It is pixel perfect and works well. I do not have a desktop that has hdmi ports on it so i cannot test, yet, whether the HDMi cable - adapter set-up is currently at fault.
> I wanted to know if there were any drivers you could manually download for these monitors and/or if anyone else has experienced something similar / tried it on a laptop with hdmi. I won't be building my desktop until the end of the summer so I am a tad bummed that I cannot use my monitor yet. D:


Similar laptop same issue... Did you ever get this working?


----------



## BrianBuilds

Is the Q270 the only model that has the VESA mount without having to disassemble? I really want a white version but the Q270 doesn't seem to be in white. Also, is the Q270 only with tempered glass? IIRC reading in here the glass somehow shows a better picture (?), and does the glass models commonly have dust stuck under it? I've tried reading the who;e thread but 700+ pages is a lot!


----------



## JayXMonsta

I plugged my ps3 into my catleap and got it to work at 720p but it looks worse then 32inch 720p tv


----------



## IronDoq

Just set up my Q270 and my god... what a beauty. Coming from a 21.5" 1080 TN panel... the difference is astounding. It barely fits on my desk!


----------



## zagreus123

Hello everyone

I've been following this thread quite a bit, and I haven't really been able to find this issue in any posts (didn't check all 700 pages or more, but i got close!). So, my first Catleap I ordered through Green-Sum didn't work at all, it powered on, but no image, just a green light. Their service was great, and I returned the monitor without issue, they checked it, and offered to send another one. So, this is my 2nd Q270, in any case, I recently built a new comp as well. The comp had a number of issues, I traced most of it back to the mobo, so I changed that out, most issues were resolved. I had a funky issue with this monitor in the image below (it happened with or without new mobo). I figured it might have been the video card, since i was having issues with my 22inch Samsung monitor (4 years old), I RMA'd the card, and got a new one. I'm using a GTX 670 FTW from eVGA, and this issue throws me off.

The issue is:
So when I go to sleep or leave for work, I usually leave my computer running (it is set to sleep, but doesn't always do so), and I always turn off the monitors when I leave or anything. When I get home, and turn on the monitor, I get the below screen. For a week of having the new video card, it didn't have any issues, but as of yesterday, the issue came back. I have no idea what it is, and I can't really find what the issue is. It can't be the video card since I've replaced it, and I've used different ports, and different dual link cables. I doubt its power supply related since I haven't had any lock-ups, reboots or anything since the mobo was replaced.

Oh yeah, in order to get the monitor to fix itself or well reset itself...I just take out the DVI plug from either the computer or monitor, or just restart the computer (if i can somehow find the button when the monitor doesn't show anything at all really).

Any suggestions on this? I just messaged Green-Sum again and let them know that I'm having different issues now, and what's up with this?! On a side note, I just ordered 2 2703s, and should be here by Friday or Monday







. Basically, when this monitor works, my god....i want to bathe in the light.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> I plugged my ps3 into my catleap and got it to work at 720p but it looks worse then 32inch 720p tv


But you knew this going in, right? No scalar.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> But you knew this going in, right? No scalar.


Yep







just wanted to try.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Yep
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> just wanted to try.


"Do or do not, there is no try." Master Yoda

I'm anxiously awaiting the arrival of mine. Should be here between the 3-8th.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Does anyone make a PASSIVE Displayport to Dual Link DVI?


----------



## JayXMonsta

will this work? http://www.cpustuff.com/displayport-male-to-dvi-male-28awg-cable-dual-link-10-feet.html


----------



## b7fLuid

Hey guys,

just wanted to let you all know my crazy little experience with this monitor thus far.

I purchased this monitor on eBay from green-sum...sort of. At first, my brother and I decided to buy the item from him so we contacted him for some info and he asked for ours. I later received a PayPal request on July 21 for the purchase so I authorized and paid it. Now my brother was handling the deal initially and so was the only person corresponding with him. I just asked my brother to use my information and charge it through me as I can write it off as a business expense. I assumed that my brother had discussed the details and started the process. The funny thing was that my brother didn't actually purchase anything - green-sum came to me directly for the purchase! This was really my fault, but I presumed that my brother made the transaction and I was just authorizing a payment!

I began to feel a little insecure with the way the guy was doing business and decided to open a dispute with PayPal just in case things go sour. Part of that process requires me to try and resolve it with the seller so I sent him an email to clarify what happened, to ask when I would receive the tracking info and to ask why the transaction didn't go through eBay. I didn't receive anything the next day so I sent another email, this time a little more terse than the first. I didn't receive anything for 3 days so on the July 25th I escalated the dispute into a formal claim with PayPal. The person I spoke with there indicated that they would be contacting green-sum directly to determine what the issue was, and that I shouldn't worry about the purchase. I even had the chance to cancel the transaction completely and receive a full refund, but I thought, hey, I'm protected no matter what so let's see what happens.

Later that day, I finally I received an email from a Eunglae Cho, who I can only guess to be green-sum, giving me some sad excuse about the time zones being different which caused a delay in the shipping info being provided. Right, and it usually takes 4 days to provide shipping info on an item that is guaranteed to be delivered in 2-5. I found it funny he was able to respond with the tracking info after being contacted by PayPal but not from me. I found it even more funny that he didn't answer either of my questions about why the transaction went directly through PayPal instead of eBay or why he contacted me directly when he should've been dealing with my brother.

Anyways, here's where the story takes a little turn for the better. I'm expecting that the package would get to me the following week since it was late Wednesday when I received the email from green-sum and at best it would take 2 days to get to Toronto, Ontario, Canada. The 2 monitors arrived Friday afternoon which is essentially, less than 2 days later! Considering the shipment guarantee on eBay is 2-5 days express, I was shocked to see it arrive so quickly but given that the purchase was made on the 21st (Saturday), it essentially was 5 days. At any rate, I was just happy to get the monitors.

I spoke with the DHL guy and he was telling me how lucky I was with the duties and taxes. I only had to pay $19.02 whereas most other people he's delivered them to had to pay over $70...and I bought two!! Score!! I found it interesting that the DHL guy new so much and asked if him what was up. He told me he knew that the monitor used the same panel as the one made by Apple and that he delivers them all the time. Damn, this gave me some reassurance for my purchase so I was more hopeful that the monitors would be more than just really heavy paper weights.

It was the moment of truth so I opened up both to check for damage before I gave one to my brother. Here's what I found:

Monitor #1
• higher by 1.5cm (2/3") on the left vs. the right side which is consistent with some of the monitors purchased by other people.
• some small scratches under the protective plastic film which is strange because "how do you get scratches under the plastic anyways?".
• some of the plastic wrapping was caught between the monitor shell. This baffled me because the only way this could happen is if the protective plastic film is on when they attach the outer shell together. You'll need to loosen the screws holding the front and rear bezel if you want to make sure all parts of the plastic film is removed.
• no dead pixels - woot!

Monitor #2
• perfect except for the plastic wrap issue above.

Once everything was connected I fired it up and was glad to see both monitors turn on. Here's what I think about it thus far:

• The Catleap is a 2C =(
• Works with Sapphire AMD 6950 1gb
• Works with XFX AMD 6950 2gb
• Works with Sapphire AMD 7850 2gb
• Does not work in conjunction with a 120hz monitor attached. A little more about this later.
• Great colour - night and day compared to my BenQ XL2410T. A lot better with whites and just looks more vibrant. My high resolution photos look amazing on this screen.
• Default is a little too bright but luckily you can lower the brightness from the front panel buttons.
• I hate that the power LED blinks green when in standby (***?). It's red by the way when off so I turn it off when not in use.
• The stand is really horrible. It's plastic and you can blow on it and it'll move. Okay, not that bad but it's bad.
• There's a green-sum instruction sheet included in the box??!?! Why? did he open it and slip it in or does he have a relationship with the maker so that he can do this? If not, then it must've been opened up before being sent to me. It is slightly useful but nothing that couldn't have been placed in the description on eBay.
• My monitors have a slight problem with colour uniformity. Some whites on the screen look yellowish, but barely noticeable. Very similar to comments made on other Korean monitors by The Tech Report in their review. http://techreport.com/articles.x/23291
• It's smaller than what I was expecting. The pixel pitch is actually probably too small...Is that possible? I've worked on a 30" monitor and the Catleap doesn't have the same presence. I'm sure some of you will not be bothered by this.
• Would've preferred a taller stand. I still have to look downwards for this monitor. My BenQ can be raised so the middle of the screen is at eye level or higher.
• You can tell the difference between the North American standard and the Korean's. I don't think people would buy this monitor here if we could walk into a store and test it ourselves. I'm sure the price might entice you but the build quality is noticeable when comparing it to a Dell or an HP, never mind an Apple monitor.
• Gaming isn't as smooth, but then again I'm used to the 120hz BenQ. I have to say, it does look sweet in games like Stalker where the extra real estate is pleasing on the eye.
• The AMD 7850 holds its own, but I have to disable the second monitor every time I game competitively.
• I don't have professional calibrating software so I've just tuned it the way I like. I'm a little colour blind so if it's off, I won't know anyways!

Now, I mentioned that a couple of issues that I want to discuss a remedy for.

• The stand sucks, but a number of people have mentioned purchasing the stand from Monoprice. I've also done so and will receive it this on Aug 3 2012. When I get it and try it out, I'll let you guys know how it is. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
• I've also purchased from Monoprice a mini displayport + USB to dual link DVI adapter in hopes that I can use both the Catleap and the BenQ together with the BenQ at 120hz. I like the Catleap, but I prefer the smoothness of the 120hz over the extra screen size. It's a big chance at $69, but since the monitor is $320, I'll take the risk. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2
• Both items together come up to $135.88 US with 1 day shipping included.

Final Thoughts

The monitor with the additional purchases from Monoprice comes up to $447.88US which is still a lot less than a dell or an HP monitor of the same size. Overall, I'm happy with the monitor despite the silliness with the purchaser. It came with a lot of hassles, but I did gain some experience dealing with non-USA International retailers and their shipping policies. I personally wouldn't buy another product from this seller again but it's not because of the product itself, it was because of the way he handled the transaction. I just don't deal with people again who mess around with me. I give you one chance and that's it. There's no room for mistakes. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice...To tell you the truth, it's not much different than dealing with sellers here in Canada. I can think of numerous times where I've purchased questionable things from less than honourable people, and other times when I've been outright scammed. It's no different here than it is over there. Of course he might be great with you, but for me the harm's done.
If I were to do it again I'd probably check out the Auria EQ276W at Microcenter that has all the features of the Catleap without the risk and also includes VGA and HDMI connections at $399. http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0384780


----------



## BoredErica

IMO should have just bought Crossover with a better stand built in. Glad it all worked out, I'm ordering from Green-Sum, shipping is taking a while.


----------



## heredavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> To be added to the club, please post your comments/pictures in this thread *FIRST*.
> You will need to *RIGHT CLICK* and *COPY* the link address of your post:
> 
> *^^RIGHT CLICK YOUR POST NUMBER^^*
> Then *PASTE* the link in the "Comments & Experience" and "Pictures of your new monitor" sections of the form.
> Your pasted link will look something like this: "http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/0_100#post_16652356"
> Here is the link to the Club *FORM.* Please do not forget to link your post(s).
> *A big THANK YOU to munaim1 for the spreadsheet and form!*


Been debating on getting Crossover for the past month. However, accessorieswhole suggested the catleap Q271 and were so helpful I decided to trust that so I took a leap of faith and just ordered one. I will post follow ups after I receive the monitor...


----------



## b7fLuid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zagreus123*
> 
> Hello everyone
> I've been following this thread quite a bit, and I haven't really been able to find this issue in any posts (didn't check all 700 pages or more, but i got close!). So, my first Catleap I ordered through Green-Sum didn't work at all, it powered on, but no image, just a green light. Their service was great, and I returned the monitor without issue, they checked it, and offered to send another one. So, this is my 2nd Q270, in any case, I recently built a new comp as well. The comp had a number of issues, I traced most of it back to the mobo, so I changed that out, most issues were resolved. I had a funky issue with this monitor in the image below (it happened with or without new mobo). I figured it might have been the video card, since i was having issues with my 22inch Samsung monitor (4 years old), I RMA'd the card, and got a new one. I'm using a GTX 670 FTW from eVGA, and this issue throws me off.
> The issue is:
> So when I go to sleep or leave for work, I usually leave my computer running (it is set to sleep, but doesn't always do so), and I always turn off the monitors when I leave or anything. When I get home, and turn on the monitor, I get the below screen. For a week of having the new video card, it didn't have any issues, but as of yesterday, the issue came back. I have no idea what it is, and I can't really find what the issue is. It can't be the video card since I've replaced it, and I've used different ports, and different dual link cables. I doubt its power supply related since I haven't had any lock-ups, reboots or anything since the mobo was replaced.
> Oh yeah, in order to get the monitor to fix itself or well reset itself...I just take out the DVI plug from either the computer or monitor, or just restart the computer (if i can somehow find the button when the monitor doesn't show anything at all really).
> Any suggestions on this? I just messaged Green-Sum again and let them know that I'm having different issues now, and what's up with this?! On a side note, I just ordered 2 2703s, and should be here by Friday or Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Basically, when this monitor works, my god....i want to bathe in the light.


Hey Zagreus123,

I'm glad you're having good service from green-sum. Looks like he's really trying to take care of you. My experience is not so good, but at least my monitors work even if one is slightly slanted. haha

I haven't really seen that image, but I do get some minor artifacts when switching from desktop to a game. Nowhere close to your screens distortion, but I do get some periodically.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'd advise against unplugging the DVI cable while the computer is on. I know it doesn't appear to do any harm, but I build and fix a lot of computers and I never like to hotswap or disconnect things when they're live (i.e. powered on) because it causes undue stress and you may get a BSOD once in a while. Computers are stupid that way and I like to do things slowly and by the books even if it's more time consuming. It's a good habit to get into.

Windows sleep function isn't the best and a lot of people actually advise that you turn it off. This in combination with such new hardware may cause that problem. Again, a shot in the dark.

Have you tried searching the 120hz forum for solutions?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *heredavid*
> 
> Been debating on getting Crossover for the past month. However, accessorieswhole suggested the catleap Q271 and were so helpful I decided to trust that so I took a leap of faith and just ordered one. I will post follow ups after I receive the monitor...


Ok, good luck on your monitor, I hope it is flawless.
However I still recommend for those that want to switch the stand to simply buy a Crossover. You get better build quality and a good stand for $35 more.


----------



## praxis248

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b7fLuid*
> 
> • Does not work in conjunction with a 120hz monitor attached. A little more about this later.


That's strange. Mine is working fine with 60hz on one and 120hz on the other with a GTX 670. Is this due to AMD/ATI?


----------



## b7fLuid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> will this work? http://www.cpustuff.com/displayport-male-to-dvi-male-28awg-cable-dual-link-10-feet.html


That's a lot cheaper than my Monoprice suggestion. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2

Good find and from the description, it looks like it'll work. Be sure to let us know.


----------



## b7fLuid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *praxis248*
> 
> That's strange. Mine is working fine with 60hz on one and 120hz on the other with a GTX 670. Is this due to AMD/ATI?


Really? Damn, I'm at a loss to explain this. I know the 670's a better card, but I tried everything from different dual DVI cables to swapping which ports they're in. I've updated drivers and installed from scratch but still no luck.

What resolution is your 120hz monitor at? I can get 120hz, but only with a 1024*768 res.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b7fLuid*
> 
> That's a lot cheaper than my Monoprice suggestion. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2
> Good find and from the description, it looks like it'll work. Be sure to let us know.


I am actually just going to use a hdmi cable and see how it works since my gpu supports 2560x1440 over hdmi and I am using the Multi model but if it doesn't work I will be using that cable


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b7fLuid*
> 
> Hey guys,
> just wanted to let you all know my crazy little experience with this monitor thus far.
> I purchased this monitor on eBay from green-sum...sort of. At first, my brother and I decided to buy the item from him so we contacted him for some info and he asked for ours. I later received a PayPal request on July 21 for the purchase so I authorized and paid it. Now my brother was handling the deal initially and so was the only person corresponding with him. I just asked my brother to use my information and charge it through me as I can write it off as a business expense. I assumed that my brother had discussed the details and started the process. The funny thing was that my brother didn't actually purchase anything - green-sum came to me directly for the purchase! This was really my fault, but I presumed that my brother made the transaction and I was just authorizing a payment!
> I began to feel a little insecure with the way the guy was doing business and decided to open a dispute with PayPal just in case things go sour. Part of that process requires me to try and resolve it with the seller so I sent him an email to clarify what happened, to ask when I would receive the tracking info and to ask why the transaction didn't go through eBay. I didn't receive anything the next day so I sent another email, this time a little more terse than the first. I didn't receive anything for 3 days so on the July 25th I escalated the dispute into a formal claim with PayPal. The person I spoke with there indicated that they would be contacting green-sum directly to determine what the issue was, and that I shouldn't worry about the purchase. I even had the chance to cancel the transaction completely and receive a full refund, but I thought, hey, I'm protected no matter what so let's see what happens.
> Later that day, I finally I received an email from a Eunglae Cho, who I can only guess to be green-sum, giving me some sad excuse about the time zones being different which caused a delay in the shipping info being provided. Right, and it usually takes 4 days to provide shipping info on an item that is guaranteed to be delivered in 2-5. I found it funny he was able to respond with the tracking info after being contacted by PayPal but not from me. I found it even more funny that he didn't answer either of my questions about why the transaction went directly through PayPal instead of eBay or why he contacted me directly when he should've been dealing with my brother.
> Anyways, here's where the story takes a little turn for the better. I'm expecting that the package would get to me the following week since it was late Wednesday when I received the email from green-sum and at best it would take 2 days to get to Toronto, Ontario, Canada. The 2 monitors arrived Friday afternoon which is essentially, less than 2 days later! Considering the shipment guarantee on eBay is 2-5 days express, I was shocked to see it arrive so quickly but given that the purchase was made on the 21st (Saturday), it essentially was 5 days. At any rate, I was just happy to get the monitors.
> I spoke with the DHL guy and he was telling me how lucky I was with the duties and taxes. I only had to pay $19.02 whereas most other people he's delivered them to had to pay over $70...and I bought two!! Score!! I found it interesting that the DHL guy new so much and asked if him what was up. He told me he knew that the monitor used the same panel as the one made by Apple and that he delivers them all the time. Damn, this gave me some reassurance for my purchase so I was more hopeful that the monitors would be more than just really heavy paper weights.
> It was the moment of truth so I opened up both to check for damage before I gave one to my brother. Here's what I found:
> Monitor #1
> • higher by 1.5cm (2/3") on the left vs. the right side which is consistent with some of the monitors purchased by other people.
> • some small scratches under the protective plastic film which is strange because "how do you get scratches under the plastic anyways?".
> • some of the plastic wrapping was caught between the monitor shell. This baffled me because the only way this could happen is if the protective plastic film is on when they attach the outer shell together. You'll need to loosen the screws holding the front and rear bezel if you want to make sure all parts of the plastic film is removed.
> • no dead pixels - woot!
> Monitor #2
> • perfect except for the plastic wrap issue above.
> Once everything was connected I fired it up and was glad to see both monitors turn on. Here's what I think about it thus far:
> • The Catleap is a 2C =(
> • Works with Sapphire AMD 6950 1gb
> • Works with XFX AMD 6950 2gb
> • Works with Sapphire AMD 7850 2gb
> • Does not work in conjunction with a 120hz monitor attached. A little more about this later.
> • Great colour - night and day compared to my BenQ XL2410T. A lot better with whites and just looks more vibrant. My high resolution photos look amazing on this screen.
> • Default is a little too bright but luckily you can lower the brightness from the front panel buttons.
> • I hate that the power LED blinks green when in standby (***?). It's red by the way when off so I turn it off when not in use.
> • The stand is really horrible. It's plastic and you can blow on it and it'll move. Okay, not that bad but it's bad.
> • There's a green-sum instruction sheet included in the box??!?! Why? did he open it and slip it in or does he have a relationship with the maker so that he can do this? If not, then it must've been opened up before being sent to me. It is slightly useful but nothing that couldn't have been placed in the description on eBay.
> • My monitors have a slight problem with colour uniformity. Some whites on the screen look yellowish, but barely noticeable. Very similar to comments made on other Korean monitors by The Tech Report in their review. http://techreport.com/articles.x/23291
> • It's smaller than what I was expecting. The pixel pitch is actually probably too small...Is that possible? I've worked on a 30" monitor and the Catleap doesn't have the same presence. I'm sure some of you will not be bothered by this.
> • Would've preferred a taller stand. I still have to look downwards for this monitor. My BenQ can be raised so the middle of the screen is at eye level or higher.
> • You can tell the difference between the North American standard and the Korean's. I don't think people would buy this monitor here if we could walk into a store and test it ourselves. I'm sure the price might entice you but the build quality is noticeable when comparing it to a Dell or an HP, never mind an Apple monitor.
> • Gaming isn't as smooth, but then again I'm used to the 120hz BenQ. I have to say, it does look sweet in games like Stalker where the extra real estate is pleasing on the eye.
> • The AMD 7850 holds its own, but I have to disable the second monitor every time I game competitively.
> • I don't have professional calibrating software so I've just tuned it the way I like. I'm a little colour blind so if it's off, I won't know anyways!
> Now, I mentioned that a couple of issues that I want to discuss a remedy for.
> • The stand sucks, but a number of people have mentioned purchasing the stand from Monoprice. I've also done so and will receive it this on Aug 3 2012. When I get it and try it out, I'll let you guys know how it is. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> • I've also purchased from Monoprice a mini displayport + USB to dual link DVI adapter in hopes that I can use both the Catleap and the BenQ together with the BenQ at 120hz. I like the Catleap, but I prefer the smoothness of the 120hz over the extra screen size. It's a big chance at $69, but since the monitor is $320, I'll take the risk. http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2
> • Both items together come up to $135.88 US with 1 day shipping included.
> Final Thoughts
> The monitor with the additional purchases from Monoprice comes up to $447.88US which is still a lot less than a dell or an HP monitor of the same size. Overall, I'm happy with the monitor despite the silliness with the purchaser. It came with a lot of hassles, but I did gain some experience dealing with non-USA International retailers and their shipping policies. I personally wouldn't buy another product from this seller again but it's not because of the product itself, it was because of the way he handled the transaction. I just don't deal with people again who mess around with me. I give you one chance and that's it. There's no room for mistakes. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice...To tell you the truth, it's not much different than dealing with sellers here in Canada. I can think of numerous times where I've purchased questionable things from less than honourable people, and other times when I've been outright scammed. It's no different here than it is over there. Of course he might be great with you, but for me the harm's done.
> If I were to do it again I'd probably check out the Auria EQ276W at Microcenter that has all the features of the Catleap without the risk and also includes VGA and HDMI connections at $399. http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0384780


If something doesn't work from monoprice you can return it pretty easily







I drive by there warehouse every so often to so for me I could even just just pickup and drop off there.


----------



## iARDAs

Quick question about tracking my monitor via DHL

My package arrived to Istanbul Turkey and it says Clearence delay, but 30 mins later it is processed at istanbul and then departed facility.

Does clearence delay mean that they held it in the Customs? and than no problems happened and the package was released?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BrianBuilds*
> 
> Is the Q270 the only model that has the VESA mount without having to disassemble? I really want a white version but the Q270 doesn't seem to be in white. Also, is the Q270 only with tempered glass? IIRC reading in here the glass somehow shows a better picture (?), and does the glass models commonly have dust stuck under it? I've tried reading the who;e thread but 700+ pages is a lot!


No, I have the 2703 LED variant of the monitor, which also has tempered glass. I still had to disassemble the monitor in order to remove a little attachment that they had, which would attach to the OEM stand base. It's really not that hard to open up though.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zagreus123*
> 
> Hello everyone
> I've been following this thread quite a bit, and I haven't really been able to find this issue in any posts (didn't check all 700 pages or more, but i got close!). So, my first Catleap I ordered through Green-Sum didn't work at all, it powered on, but no image, just a green light. Their service was great, and I returned the monitor without issue, they checked it, and offered to send another one. So, this is my 2nd Q270, in any case, I recently built a new comp as well. The comp had a number of issues, I traced most of it back to the mobo, so I changed that out, most issues were resolved. I had a funky issue with this monitor in the image below (it happened with or without new mobo). I figured it might have been the video card, since i was having issues with my 22inch Samsung monitor (4 years old), I RMA'd the card, and got a new one. I'm using a GTX 670 FTW from eVGA, and this issue throws me off.
> The issue is:
> So when I go to sleep or leave for work, I usually leave my computer running (it is set to sleep, but doesn't always do so), and I always turn off the monitors when I leave or anything. When I get home, and turn on the monitor, I get the below screen. For a week of having the new video card, it didn't have any issues, but as of yesterday, the issue came back. I have no idea what it is, and I can't really find what the issue is. It can't be the video card since I've replaced it, and I've used different ports, and different dual link cables. I doubt its power supply related since I haven't had any lock-ups, reboots or anything since the mobo was replaced.
> Oh yeah, in order to get the monitor to fix itself or well reset itself...I just take out the DVI plug from either the computer or monitor, or just restart the computer (if i can somehow find the button when the monitor doesn't show anything at all really).
> Any suggestions on this? I just messaged Green-Sum again and let them know that I'm having different issues now, and what's up with this?! On a side note, I just ordered 2 2703s, and should be here by Friday or Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Basically, when this monitor works, my god....i want to bathe in the light.


If you fixed the problem by pulling the DVI cable out and then replugging it, then it definitely sounds like a DVI issue. I would try replacing the OEM DVI cable. I had a problem with the OEM DVI cable too, where my monitor would show red artifacts occasionally, and sometimes, the display would disappear, but the monitor would still be on. The only temporary fix would be to replug the DVI cable again, only to have it happen again, sometimes within a matter of seconds. A new DVI cable fixed the issue.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b7fLuid*
> 
> snip


Jesus, you type a lot. I read through all of it though, lol. Glad that you were able to get it worked out. I too am a bit wary of Green-sum. After reading all the negative reviews on their Ebay page, I ended up going with BCC instead.


----------



## Prymus

Update: seller found the payment. I have another seller shipping me a monitor. Already here in nashville actually. I am at a loss as to getting a full refund from seller, turns out ebay canceled not him, or have him send a monitor and I sell it when it gets here.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> No driver needed for ATI , I just used the CRU tool to add custom refresh rates, reboot and select one- That was it


So you don't need to do any of that stuff to overclock with Nvidia or ATI. Reads like an epic tragedy.

"We can overclock this monitor, all we need is to build some custom drivers, figure out how to get Windows to recognize them, then install them in test mode. After that, it's just a matter of creating a custom screen resolution and it's done! It won't take many hours to make a detailed tutorial and a YouTube video so guys can follow along."

"Or you can just set your resolution in the control panel and reboot."

"We'll do that!"


----------



## Mixy

Hi! I scanned the past 30 pages, and the OP but I couldnt find the answers I'm looking for:

1. None of the monitors out there ATM currently offers any valuable overclocking? (past 67Hz..)
2. Is this because they changed the PCB, and has there been any news about getting the "old" PCB with possibility to overclock?
3. The SE edition is just the regular monitor without speakers?

Thanks guys!


----------



## Prymus

Holy crap. My monitor its already here. Pics when I get home.


----------



## silver8

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zagreus123*
> 
> Hello everyone
> I've been following this thread quite a bit, and I haven't really been able to find this issue in any posts (didn't check all 700 pages or more, but i got close!). So, my first Catleap I ordered through Green-Sum didn't work at all, it powered on, but no image, just a green light. Their service was great, and I returned the monitor without issue, they checked it, and offered to send another one. So, this is my 2nd Q270, in any case, I recently built a new comp as well. The comp had a number of issues, I traced most of it back to the mobo, so I changed that out, most issues were resolved. I had a funky issue with this monitor in the image below (it happened with or without new mobo). I figured it might have been the video card, since i was having issues with my 22inch Samsung monitor (4 years old), I RMA'd the card, and got a new one. I'm using a GTX 670 FTW from eVGA, and this issue throws me off.
> The issue is:
> So when I go to sleep or leave for work, I usually leave my computer running (it is set to sleep, but doesn't always do so), and I always turn off the monitors when I leave or anything. When I get home, and turn on the monitor, I get the below screen. For a week of having the new video card, it didn't have any issues, but as of yesterday, the issue came back. I have no idea what it is, and I can't really find what the issue is. It can't be the video card since I've replaced it, and I've used different ports, and different dual link cables. I doubt its power supply related since I haven't had any lock-ups, reboots or anything since the mobo was replaced.
> Oh yeah, in order to get the monitor to fix itself or well reset itself...I just take out the DVI plug from either the computer or monitor, or just restart the computer (if i can somehow find the button when the monitor doesn't show anything at all really).
> Any suggestions on this? I just messaged Green-Sum again and let them know that I'm having different issues now, and what's up with this?! On a side note, I just ordered 2 2703s, and should be here by Friday or Monday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Basically, when this monitor works, my god....i want to bathe in the light.


here was mine Yamakasi 2703


It happened to me when I moved my monitor to a different stand. I found out I had actually bent the DVI cable too much(the one that came with the monitor). I also noticed the PCB where the DVI connector on the monitor is has to have no pressure applied to it, IE the cable should be as straight as possible. The DVI connection behind the monitor is kind of filmsy so be careful. Needless to say I swapped out the cable to a monoprice one and all is well. Unfortunately though my Asus GTX 670 just died, so a replacement is on the way.


----------



## revlisoft

I just noticed a dead pixel on my 1st monitor







. Near the center lower right. Just one. I guess I can live with it for now. I'm surprised I didn't notice it over the first few days.. .I wonder if it just got dead or was always there.


----------



## cmdrdredd

I had zero problems with green-sum. I read the wall of text but when you use a 3rd party using your info you can only expect problems. Also why did you contact them for payment info? They probably thought that was irregular. You just go to their eBay listing and hit buy it now, click the PayPal link and send the funds, then wait for a confirmation. It took me about 2 minutes and I never needed to email anyone. My tracking came via email after about 24hours and the monitor arrived in 4 days. I see people causing their own issues and delays but blaming the seller. The seller is trying to be careful too. Next time don't let someone else use your info and use the eBay page.


----------



## Flippy125

They better send it out for delivery today... I won't be able to stand it sitting just a couple miles from me for another day


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flippy125*
> 
> They better send it out for delivery today... I won't be able to stand it sitting just a couple miles from me for another day


They will. If it's within your vicinity and it's that early in the morning, it will be delivered to your house by today.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> They will. If it's within your vicinity and it's that early in the morning, it will be delivered to your house by today.


I just did the happy dance in my room.








I will post pictures and a quick review when I get mine. Gotta' do them unboxing pictures!

Greensum valued it at $120. No customs. No tax? WHOPEE!!!


----------



## b7fLuid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmdrdredd*
> 
> I had zero problems with green-sum. I read the wall of text but when you use a 3rd party using your info you can only expect problems. Also why did you contact them for payment info? They probably thought that was irregular. You just go to their eBay listing and hit buy it now, click the PayPal link and send the funds, then wait for a confirmation. It took me about 2 minutes and I never needed to email anyone. My tracking came via email after about 24hours and the monitor arrived in 4 days. I see people causing their own issues and delays but blaming the seller. The seller is trying to be careful too. Next time don't let someone else use your info and use the eBay page.


Hey cmdrdredd,

I'm not sure which post you're referring to, but to help us out next time, please let us know by quoting it. If it's like mine and too long, refer to the post number and we'll get the idea.

With regards to my "strange" experience, I don't see how I could've been the author of any delays as your post suggests. There's no correlation between contacting the seller to ask questions about the product prior to any transaction and delays in providing the proper tracking info once the purchase is finalized. Whether the purchase was done through eBay or through PayPal, the expectation is that some tracking info would be provided within a reasonable amount of time after the transaction is completed. This wasn't the case and it took an escalation with PayPal to get them to provide the tracking info. In addition, instead owning up to the mistake honestly, he provided a sad excuse about the time difference causing delays. I can deal with honest mistakes, but I found it comical that he'd suggest that there's a 5 day time zone difference between Toronto to Korea.

I'm glad that you had no problems with your transaction, but I'd like to also point out that your experience doesn't mean that everyone else will go through the same process. There are a lot of positive and negative transactions with this seller and we can only comment on our own experience. Here's an analogy, that just because you've had a great experience at a restaurant, it doesn't mean that everyone will have a great experience as well.

I wouldn't want to infer that others don't deal with green-sum. I've mentioned my experience with the guy and the consequences of his actions specific to me. If you notice, I don't say anything to the effect of others not going through him. I leave that decision up to purchaser. If you had a good experience then just state that and let us draw our own conclusions. I think this is more helpful to everyone.


----------



## b7fLuid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Quick question about tracking my monitor via DHL
> 
> My package arrived to Istanbul Turkey and it says Clearence delay, but 30 mins later it is processed at istanbul and then departed facility.
> 
> Does clearence delay mean that they held it in the Customs? and than no problems happened and the package was released?


You got it!


----------



## b7fLuid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> I am actually just going to use a hdmi cable and see how it works since my gpu supports 2560x1440 over hdmi and I am using the Multi model but if it doesn't work I will be using that cable


I thought the newest high speed HDMI was able to support 120hz as well, but for some reason my monitor can't do this through HDMI...actually it could also be a problem with the video card.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b7fLuid*
> 
> You got it!


Nope I thought I did but nope.

They moved the package to DHL storage and people from DHL contacted me later to ask for some documents. They will take care of the customs transaction and I will just pay them.

At first I was excited but my item was seized in the customs.

Hopefully tomorrow DHL guys will make sure my monitor passes the customs, there wont be any problems with it, i just need to pay the customs the money, which I will do right away when I know how much to pay. In total with customs fee (which is high here) and the money that i will pay DHL for this transaction will cost me about 100$... I am ok with that. So my monitor will cost me 400$... Considering that a Dell u2711 is 1000$ here, I am still happy.


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b7fLuid*
> 
> I thought the newest high speed HDMI was able to support 120hz as well, but for some reason my monitor can't do this through HDMI...actually it could also be a problem with the video card.


if you are referring to 120Hz 1440p then it does not support it. HDMI does around 340MHz max transfer rate and 120Hz 1440P is around 435MHz bandwidth. IIRC that is...


----------



## BoomSie32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Ok, good luck on your monitor, I hope it is flawless.
> However I still recommend for those that want to switch the stand to simply buy a Crossover. You get better build quality and a good stand for $35 more.


I have the same feeling. The monitors were brought under my attention through a dutch tech forum and obviously the crossover has a better frame.

However, the only crossover I can find with HDMI (and cheap) is the Gold version which, according to other websites, has terrible colors and all. For that reason I'm bouncing back again to catleap.

Is there a non gold version of crossover available on the market or is the Catleap Q271 the way to go?


----------



## BoredErica

From what I see on Ebay, there are plenty of non-gold options.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Nope I thought I did but nope.
> 
> They moved the package to DHL storage and people from DHL contacted me later to ask for some documents. They will take care of the customs transaction and I will just pay them.
> 
> At first I was excited but my item was seized in the customs.
> 
> Hopefully tomorrow DHL guys will make sure my monitor passes the customs, there wont be any problems with it, i just need to pay the customs the money, which I will do right away when I know how much to pay. In total with customs fee (which is high here) and the money that i will pay DHL for this transaction will cost me about 100$... I am ok with that. So my monitor will cost me 400$... Considering that a Dell u2711 is 1000$ here, I am still happy.


Did they contact you by telephone?
Did you receave the monitor?


----------



## unroar

My Catleap's color temperature is way to blue so I went to apply one of the color profiles but the settings don't stick. Whenever I hit Set Default the color on the monitor changes for a second and then it reverts to the previous color. The same happens when I go into the NVIDIA control panel and adjust brightness, contrast or gamma, the setting will stick for just a second and then revert. Any ideas?

Windows 7, Catleap Q270, NVIDIA GeForce 9600 GSO


----------



## BoomSie32

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> From what I see on Ebay, there are plenty of non-gold options.


Non-Gold HDMI? The ONLY version I can find is 200$ more expensive, starts at 600$ ( Crossover 27M )

Then the whole point is gone for me (since it comes close to the price of Hazro screens and similar other screens. Better warranty protection cause it's local etc etc)


----------



## ZeroH

I'm looking to buy a Catleap that will be OC'able with a future PCB (if/when there is one). Are there particular ones that are better for this than the others? I understand that the MULTI versions are not recommended but what about the LED, SE, Tempered Glass versions?

TIA.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Did they contact you by telephone?
> Did you receave the monitor?


I actually called them first and knew about it, however they were going to call me anyway. They sent me an email and everything showing the package tracking number, reciept etc...

DHL contacted me, not the Turkish Customs btw. Thanks to DHL for that. Other wise it would be a mess.

DHL will do everything for me now. I will just pay them thats it.

Greensum declared my monitor for 280$. I believe the remaining 29$ is for shipping. I paid him 309$

hopefully DHL can clear the customs for me tomorrow if not unfortunately monday as saturday is not a work day. And when its clear i will have the monitor next day.

Closest estimate is Saturday

Far estimate is on Tuesday


----------



## ziofranco

My monitor is in Lipsia (Germany) at 17:30
Hope tomorrow or monday...saturday not deliver?


----------



## Prymus

Any body know the size screws for the vesa mounts. The ones I have are too fat.


----------



## cmdrdredd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *b7fLuid*
> 
> Hey cmdrdredd,
> I'm not sure which post you're referring to, but to help us out next time, please let us know by quoting it. If it's like mine and too long, refer to the post number and we'll get the idea.
> With regards to my "strange" experience, I don't see how I could've been the author of any delays as your post suggests. There's no correlation between contacting the seller to ask questions about the product prior to any transaction and delays in providing the proper tracking info once the purchase is finalized. Whether the purchase was done through eBay or through PayPal, the expectation is that some tracking info would be provided within a reasonable amount of time after the transaction is completed. This wasn't the case and it took an escalation with PayPal to get them to provide the tracking info. In addition, instead owning up to the mistake honestly, he provided a sad excuse about the time difference causing delays. I can deal with honest mistakes, but I found it comical that he'd suggest that there's a 5 day time zone difference between Toronto to Korea.
> I'm glad that you had no problems with your transaction, but I'd like to also point out that your experience doesn't mean that everyone else will go through the same process. There are a lot of positive and negative transactions with this seller and we can only comment on our own experience. Here's an analogy, that just because you've had a great experience at a restaurant, it doesn't mean that everyone will have a great experience as well.
> I wouldn't want to infer that others don't deal with green-sum. I've mentioned my experience with the guy and the consequences of his actions specific to me. If you notice, I don't say anything to the effect of others not going through him. I leave that decision up to purchaser. If you had a good experience then just state that and let us draw our own conclusions. I think this is more helpful to everyone.


There is a reason they use an ebay store. They track inventory and sales through ebay, not paypal. That's probably the problem right there. They see payment but no ebay sale so they don't know what for and it takes a while to get it sorted. Green-Sum is not one person so whoever answered your email probably isn't the one who pulls up the shipping labels.

In the end it was sorted out which is good though.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> My monitor is in Lipsia (Germany) at 17:30
> Hope tomorrow or monday...saturday not deliver?


DHL deliver on Saturdays in Germany.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> DHL deliver on Saturdays in Germany.


I'm Italian


----------



## Flippy125

It just got here an hour or two ago. Had to open it up for my desk mount and got it up and running. A tiny bit of backlight bleed and no dead pixels. If this is A-, I want to see the A+ panels


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flippy125*
> 
> It just got here an hour or two ago. Had to open it up for my desk mount and got it up and running. A tiny bit of backlight bleed and no dead pixels. If this is A-, I want to see the A+ panels


Apple will be happy to show you for $1000.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> Apple will be happy to show you for $1000.


Oh god, that thing is an abomination...


----------



## Gdiguy

So I'm having trouble deciding between a Catleap 2703 and a Crossover 27q (didn't realize ebay links might be a bad idea, killed them)...

With the tempered glass, I can't find any Crossovers below about 390; do you guys think the build quality is actually $90 better? (I agree that the stand is better looking, but as long as the Catleap stand is relatively stable I don't really care that much)


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flippy125*
> 
> It just got here an hour or two ago. Had to open it up for my desk mount and got it up and running. A tiny bit of backlight bleed and no dead pixels. If this is A-, I want to see the A+ panels


I have a A+ dell panel and I see no difference at all... other then the fact that the catleap makes my laptop BSOD.... anybody know why?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gdiguy*
> 
> So I'm having trouble deciding between a 2703 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-2703-LED-27-2560X1440-WQHD-IPS-DVI-Monitor-Tempered-glassl-/110920266460?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d35cf2dc) and a Crossover 27q (http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-27-Temper-ed-Glass-Monitor-LG-IPS-2560X1440-DVI-D-Dual-QHD-/230782175373?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item35bbb0888d#ht_7772wt_890)...
> With the tempered glass, I can't find any Crossovers below about 390; do you guys think the build quality is actually $90 better? (I agree that the stand is better looking, but as long as the Catleap stand is relatively stable I don't really care that much)


I maybe wrong but I think that the Tempered glass is a lot better on the Catleap because its on the inside rite?


----------



## BoredErica

No, it's plastered over the front.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> I'm Italian


I know


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SidEvolution*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I recently bought a Catleap Q270 SE and I've been trying to get it to work on my laptop for some time. Originally I plugged it in and it gave me an immediate BSOD error - "Bad pool header". I thought of the many reg-edits as well as other customization I did with my OS so I have re-installed my OS and just did all of the updates / driver-installation. I know that the monitor only had a DVi-D dual link port which was fine since I acquired a 'high-speed hdmi cable' that is suppose to support up to 1440p. I connected this an adapter for dvi-d dual link and it proceeded to recognize it and not crash immediately. It simply keeps a green-flashing light.
> My laptop is a Asus K53SV with i5-2410 (I believe). Intel HD graphics 3000 and nvidia geforce gt 540m, both of which claim to support 1440p (up to 1600p actually). I have done a complete clean install with my drivers. I will be doing another clean install momentarily since I was able to do 'Show screen on second display" as well as "extend displays' options before one of the drivers was installed and now it does not allow me to do either. It states: "Unable to save settings".
> I have tested the monitor out with the DVI-D cable it came with on a crappier desktop in my basement. It is pixel perfect and works well. I do not have a desktop that has hdmi ports on it so i cannot test, yet, whether the HDMi cable - adapter set-up is currently at fault.
> I wanted to know if there were any drivers you could manually download for these monitors and/or if anyone else has experienced something similar / tried it on a laptop with hdmi. I won't be building my desktop until the end of the summer so I am a tad bummed that I cannot use my monitor yet. D:


Anybody ever get this working?


----------



## Gdiguy

Oh, I also completely forgot to put this in the previous post - as far as I can tell, there's no difference between the Q270 and the 2703 models... is that correct? Is there a reason why the Q270's average ~$40 more? (I know initially it seemed like they might be slightly different IPS panels, but all the info I can find now indicates that they're identical)


----------



## Asmodean

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BoomSie32*
> 
> I have the same feeling. The monitors were brought under my attention through a dutch tech forum and obviously the crossover has a better frame.
> However, the only crossover I can find with HDMI (and cheap) is the Gold version which, according to other websites, has terrible colors and all. For that reason I'm bouncing back again to catleap.
> Is there a non gold version of crossover available on the market or is the Catleap Q271 the way to go?


I just thought I would present some collected info about that, to help you with your decision.

The old version had a faulty pcb, and firmware, is why it got such bad initial reviews. but The new version of it, with the new scaler,pcb, and updated firmware has according to reviews the highest image quality out of all the Korean panels (and a lot of the well known ones btw) also has 1.07 billion colour support, as apposed to 16.7m. Probably not really going to notice it most times, but it's still nice to have it.

Officlal Reviews Note: Used Google Translate for it in english.

OLD VERSION REVIEW

NEW VERSION REVIEW


----------



## plum

It's a shame most wallpaper websites have a really poor selection of 2560x1440 wallpapers at the moment, and when you can actually find decent ones, it's not _true_ 2560x1440... I can see pixelated squares and whatnot, you can easily tell especially when the size of the image is around 1MB or less. Maybe I'm just unlucky!


----------



## BoredErica

OMG IT'S HERE! Pictures in a little bit.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> OMG IT'S HERE! Pictures in a little bit.










Can't wait until mine gets here.


----------



## BoredErica

Zero dead pixels. Minimal lower right quadrant light bleeding. IPS glow not significant. No color problems.
Greensum sent non-tempered glass version instead of tempered version which I ordered.

Happy with purchase. I'll even post a video review later.


----------



## Prymus

It's here. Seems like it took less than two days to get from Korea to TN..Fed Ex is amazing this monitor is nice too. Doesn't seem like much bleeding slight yellowing in the lower right. No big deal. Didn't do A-B comparison on my old to new but it's much larger. Way too bright. Need to figure that out. I sit within 2.5 ft of the thing that could be an issue.. Let me know if you have any suggestions on the brightness thing.


----------



## braveblade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zero dead pixels. Minimal lower right quadrant light bleeding. IPS glow not significant. No color problems.
> Greensum sent non-tempered glass version instead of tempered version which I ordered.
> Happy with purchase. I'll even post a video review later.


In your first picture, even you were in a bright room, i still see backlight bleeding coming from upper left, bottom left, and bottom right. This will get worse in a dark room. As I said before, most of these monitors will have bleeding, and most of people will not notice it. In your case you are pretty happy about the monitor, but for me the bleeding is un-bearable. Well I'm too picky.


----------



## GotCake

Hi I bought the Catleap q270 about 2 months ago after reading this thread actually, and now it is stuck on a black screen with a flashing green light. I actually had this issue when I first got it, but I thought it was just a cable issue since it would go on and off if I moved anything around. After the first day though, it worked perfectly fine with the same cable and even through being moved around. Now two months later it decides to stop working again, except this time, not come back on.

I did all of the suggested steps to fixing it, trying both ports, making 100% sure the dvi cable was fully seated, got a new cable, clean installed drivers, opened it up and made sure all the internal cables were properly connected... now it's currently sitting on my table with just the guts all hooked together, still no luck.

As per the required info, my graphics card is a Raedon HD 6870 with catalyst version 12.6.
Also this is the only monitor I'm using currently with my desktop, but I did at one time have two hooked up without any issues.

If anyone could possibly shed any light on what might be the issue or how to fix it, I would greatly appreciate it!


----------



## thisisvv

Can anyone point me to direction where i can get a Desk vesa mount which can do this Monitor in potrait mode... would the following Desk mount can handle the

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L171KW/

the following monitor in potrait mode

ACHIEVA Shimian QH270-Lite ....btw what does Lite means here???


----------



## knightmetro

Finally put in my order for a Q270 with BCC. I didn't want to mess with the 2703 just in case of any eventual dust between the glass and the screen.

Can't wait for it to get here BUTTT let me tell you the BS Paypal put me through to finally get this thing paid.

It took 48 hours for them to let me pay. When I called, 4 times, they kept saying "try again in an hour" as it was due to "unknown security block". I finally was able to pay, but they pushed it through as an eCheck. What the.... They kept telling me it had nothing to do with my account, but the merchant. Perplexed.

So, hopefully sooner or later it will get here. I've got business trips stacked up for almost a month, so who knows when I'll get to use it anyway.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thisisvv*
> 
> Can anyone point me to direction where i can get a Desk vesa mount which can do this Monitor in potrait mode... would the following Desk mount can handle the
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003L171KW/
> the following monitor in potrait mode
> ACHIEVA Shimian QH270-Lite ....btw what does Lite means here???


that mount will not do that sadly and the only one i know of doesnt have a arm


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *braveblade*
> 
> In your first picture, even you were in a bright room, i still see backlight bleeding coming from upper left, bottom left, and bottom right. This will get worse in a dark room. As I said before, most of these monitors will have bleeding, and most of people will not notice it. In your case you are pretty happy about the monitor, but for me the bleeding is un-bearable. Well I'm too picky.


It wasn't actually bright, my camera is just really, really bad. It even said "low light" and found a way to make the picture brighter. In a black screen I can see it, but yeah, not going to notice with day-to-day use or gaming IMO.


----------



## wkstar

I bought a GreenDot card at Walmart








Put the Money in PayPal and there was Zero Trouble with payment as Paypal had the money already


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Zero dead pixels. Minimal lower right quadrant light bleeding. IPS glow not significant. No color problems.
> Greensum sent non-tempered glass version instead of tempered version which I ordered.
> Happy with purchase. I'll even post a video review later.










You didn't win one beer..no picture anymore...mine is 7 miles from me


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You win one beer..mine is 7 miles from me


Mine just landed in LA. Hopefully it arrives here tomorrow afternoon!


----------



## sparna

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GotCake*
> 
> Hi I bought the Catleap q270 about 2 months ago after reading this thread actually, and now it is stuck on a black screen with a flashing green light. I actually had this issue when I first got it, but I thought it was just a cable issue since it would go on and off if I moved anything around. After the first day though, it worked perfectly fine with the same cable and even through being moved around. Now two months later it decides to stop working again, except this time, not come back on.
> I did all of the suggested steps to fixing it, trying both ports, making 100% sure the dvi cable was fully seated, got a new cable, clean installed drivers, opened it up and made sure all the internal cables were properly connected... now it's currently sitting on my table with just the guts all hooked together, still no luck.
> As per the required info, my graphics card is a Raedon HD 6870 with catalyst version 12.6.
> Also this is the only monitor I'm using currently with my desktop, but I did at one time have two hooked up without any issues.
> If anyone could possibly shed any light on what might be the issue or how to fix it, I would greatly appreciate it!


Sounds like an issue with the power brick, get a multi-meter and test it. If you search threads here people have listed some bricks that you can buy off ebay for ~$25 that are suitable replacements.


----------



## ziofranco

Shipment delivered


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> [snip]
> Zero dead pixels. Minimal lower right quadrant light bleeding. IPS glow not significant. No color problems.
> Greensum sent non-tempered glass version instead of tempered version which I ordered.
> Happy with purchase. I'll even post a video review later.


Pretty sure that's the tempered glass version. It's the exact model that I own.


----------



## steveotron

My Catleap died the other day. I was plugging in the power connector and all of a sudden I saw a few sparks and the inside lite up a bright yellow, and then there was some smoke. I've sent some pictures to the seller and am awaiting the OK to return the unit. I'm not sure if it's an issue with the internal components or the power brick not working properly and frying out my monitor. I've read a few other instances on this forum with people having their monitors die after trying to plug in the power.

Now I'm in a sort of tight spot. I had a panel with no dead pixels and was very happy until this happened, and now I'm not sure if I want a replacement that might have some pixel issues, and the whole thing with the power connector makes me a bit more hesitant as well. With the announcement of some of the American companies putting out 27" S-IPS panels, I think I might wait it out to see how they fare.


----------



## huyyy

guys i got 1 green stuck pixel on my screen, any suggestions on how to fix it?

i tried udpixel, pressure method & tapping method its still there :S


----------



## funboy6942

I bought the Kamakasi Catleap Q270 Multi monitor because I needed the extra inputs plus it has actual OSD, see pics below, and everything I read, that scared me after I bought it, was it was to have this massive lag because of having those extra inputs.

Well I played
DiRT 2
DiRT 3 which I ended up getting the best time ever first try after hooking up and testing
Bioshock
Half Life 2
Peggle
FEAR
Prey

And I had to ask myself, where is all this lag I read about on OC.net. I even turned on VSync because that was to make things even worse and it didnt. I had it on for DiRT3 and I didnt crash one time, as usual, and posted the best lap time I ever did first try after hooking this thing up. So if I was to have this "lag" why was I doing so good. In all the games driving or FPS when I turned/moved it moved with NO lag I could see at all. Which makes me happy I bought this monitor. I got OSD, 3 inputs, and high res.

Anyway enough about this, that I could not find, now about the monitor.
One word
AWESOME!
Text, colors, brightness, contrast, movies, they all just POP off the screen. Reminds me of the good old CRT days, which I still have my old 22" crt in the basement that goes much higher then this thing does, but the dot pitch and higher res reminds me of them old days playing at max res and everything was so clear. I know some of you kids are like "whats a crt monitor"? Its something that has an even higher res and didnt cost quite as much. I think I paid $120 for my 22", which was HUGE back in the day.

I tried a Blu Ray movie, 2012, using just my Powerdvd 10 program and thats all and it played so Im guessing this is HDCP compliant, or at least this monitor is.

I couldnt go higher then 60hz no matter what I tried so no 120hz for me







but thats alright for it doesnt bother me like it does some folks.

Stand is wobbly but I have no plans on hitting it as I play, and my desk is sturdy so it wont wobble around.

HDMI works fine. No higher res then 1080P though.

My ac adapter has the larger sticker that actually says 110v to 240v on it. Not a paste on sticker on the label that says 110v ready. See pic below. I did have to use an old monitor cable for the cable it comes with is wrong, and they dont give an adapter. No big deal for me at least. It does get warm, not hot to where you cant touch it, but def warm. Im disabled and play/sit here for 12+ hours a day so I will see how reliable this monitor/ac adapter is.

VGA I havent tried yet because I need an rca to 3.55mm audio cable, monoprice here I come. I plan on using it for my cable tv hook up so I can watch tv on here like I did with my old Sceptre 32" tv/monitor I was using that this replaced.

Got mine from Green Sum and it left on the 31st and made it to my doorstep the 2nd. So 3 days DHL.

No dead pixals I could find. Slight light bleeding in both right and left lower corners but no OMG its so bright I cant stand it! Its just very slight and not really noticeable unless the lights are off and your looking for it. I believe I paid $379 for it shipped from Green Sum on fleebay.

All in all though. If your looking for a MULTI monitor, high res, and dont want to pay much, and worried about "lag", I would say get this one. I found NO LAG whatsoever, and if there is I dont know how to find it, or how they found it, because I did great in all the games I have so far tested with it. I just feel that they assumed that since it has more inputs that its then gotta have more lag then the single input monitors do. Buy one and actually try it before you just say these things is what I got to say about that kind of thinking.

Now pics:


----------



## curlyp

Hello Yamakasi Catleap community!

Well, after following this thread for a month or so reading about the great features of this monitor, and talking with several OC owners (The Viking, IronDoq, Darkwizzie, Carniflex, cscottm), I decided to pull the trigger and order 3 Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE monitors! Yes 3!









In addition to the monitors, I also order this triple monitor stand (which was recommended by The Viking): http://shop.easymountlcd.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Stand-Free-Standing-up-to-28-002-0020-002-0020.htm

I am excited and cannot wait to receive them. This is my first time owning an IPS monitor. I have seen and used 120Hz Samsung 750D monitors; however, from what I hear/read, once I see/use an IPS monitor I will never go back to TN.

Once I receive the monitors and mount them to the stand, I will post some pictures to share with the community.









Thank you all (especially the names mentioned above) for answering my questions and further recommending this monitor!









CP


----------



## UNOE

Question guys. How will these do with intergraded graphics on a 2700K I have no GPU on my wife's computer but I'm thinking about getting one of these for her. I also want to get one just to see how good they look. I have a z68 gigabyte motherboard with DVI but I have no idea if it will drive dual link.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Question guys. How will these do with intergraded graphics on a 2700K I have no GPU on my wife's computer but I'm thinking about getting one of these for her. I also want to get one just to see how good they look. I have a z68 gigabyte motherboard with DVI but I have no idea if it will drive dual link.


I dont think integrated GPUs are supported


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Question guys. How will these do with intergraded graphics on a 2700K I have no GPU on my wife's computer but I'm thinking about getting one of these for her. I also want to get one just to see how good they look. I have a z68 gigabyte motherboard with DVI but I have no idea if it will drive dual link.


http://www.gigabyte.com/microsite/279/images/mb-z68-models.html
Never Happen ! !
You will Have to Install a Video Card ! !
NewEgg has a Nvidia 280 for $ 100.oo


----------



## UNOE

It doesn't work because it doesn't support Dual Link DVI is this why ? Can you give me a little more information as to why.


----------



## BoredErica

The monitor that is this high resolution without a scalar will output native, or its max resolution by default. It will only support some newer GPUS/few older ones. A none-DVID output/plug won't output enough to support that resolution.


----------



## Kently

48 hours ago my Catleap was in Seoul, SK. Today it sits atop my desk, quite authoritatively.

I said in my previous post that my expectations were to be blown away, and I have to say I have not been let down at all. This monitor is nothing short of stupendous. There appear to be no dead pixels whatsoever. I tried very hard to find some using the "doihaveadeadpixel" web page, but every dot i found was just dust, easily wiped off with a microfiber cloth. There seems to be some faint back light bleed in the bottom right corner, but I do not find it distracting at all. I think I got quite lucky, because so far it's been spectacular. I did attempt to see if my monitor would OC at all, and it would not. Even 65Hz was too much for it, but I'm fine with that. It's not a CRT, so the refresh rate isn't causing my eyes to bleed.

Fortunately, my ageing computer can still handle games at 1440p. I'm going to have to turn off my ENB in Skyrim, but that's a small price to pay for the amazing increase in resolution. All in all, this is the best upgrade I've done in an extremely long time. I'm thrilled and duly satisfied. I'll report if anything changes. Here are some pix:


----------



## BoredErica

Here is a video of me talking about the monitor. I'd skip all the way to 8:40ish if you already know all about these Korean monitors.








Sorry if I sound boring. Never made a Youtube video of me in my life.








But if it's boring I hope at least it's informative.








The camera really screws with my voice. As I said, it's a horrible camera. Horrible. I should buy a new one.














ZIONFRANCO OWES ME A BEER! (And I say so towards the end because it is my duty to notify the world of this!)

Original pictures:

































Zero dead pixels. Minimal lower right quadrant light bleeding. IPS glow not significant. No color problems.
Picture of bleed was taken in low-light conditions but bad camera made room look brighter. In fact, the lighting in the room was the same for picture 1 and 2.

Greensum sent non-tempered glass version instead of tempered version which I ordered.

Happy with purchase.








I recommend this monitor to other people if they want an awesome $300 monitor.


----------



## Majorhi

With delivery courier! Woot Woot...hurry up already!


----------



## Majorhi

First off my tablet & phone cameras suck and don't do this monitor justice. I have left the bezel plastic on for now and there are a couple specs on the screen in the photos but not in it. I blew them off. It is absolutely beautiful! Ordered Wednesday, received today! Less than 48 hrs! It even came with an adapter to plug that goes into the wall. But I stuck with an old monitor power cord. Easy setup, no dead pixels that I can see. Just wow! Blu Rays are brilliant!


----------



## Prymus

Further information for anyone that is ******ed like me and didn't read the directions. The 5 buttons from the bottom surprised me. Power on the right. speaker on the left two. In the center and two with no label...So I push and the screen got dark. Push the other and the screen got light. For those who just bought the q270 like me and don't read directions or all the information that is in this thread. We can now mess with out brightness.Oh wait...It's in korean. I couldn't read it anyway.


----------



## LC155

Well, the brightness controls were well known... it would be suicide to not allow us to change the brightness.


----------



## BoredErica

I tried all buttons, none since to change the brightness for me. It's fine except for white webpages.


----------



## ezikiel12

I am sitting here, browsing this thread, waiting for my monitor to be delivered. I'm a nerd.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezikiel12*
> 
> I am sitting here, browsing this thread, waiting for my monitor to be delivered. I'm a nerd.










I was doing the same thing yesterday....checking tracking number every so often.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> I dont think integrated GPUs are supported


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> The monitor that is this high resolution without a scalar will output native, or its max resolution by default. It will only support some newer GPUS/few older ones. A none-DVID output/plug won't output enough to support that resolution.


Hello everybody...I'm writing only now from my Q270 Multi...I receaved it 12 hours ago
So who win the race?









I'm testing it with integrated vga of i7 2600K in RGB mode(VGA) and it works fine
In HDMI mode the integrated vga doesn't work
I'm searching for dead pixel,but don't find it...how can I do?
The bleeding is it in the normal
Yours value of contrast and brightness?

P.S.
My old monitor is a 23" fullhd,but this 27 has pixel and words very little!


----------



## Krahe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezikiel12*
> 
> I am sitting here, browsing this thread, waiting for my monitor to be delivered. I'm a nerd.


We are all nerds here, with the exception of the mods, who are geeks, actually even if you are not a nerd once you log on to the OCN website you transform into one for the duration of your visit. Dem da rulz


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Hello everybody...I'm writing only now from my Q270 Multi...I receaved it 12 hours ago
> So who win the race?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm testing it with integrated vga of i7 2600K in RGB mode(VGA) and it works fine
> In HDMI mode the integrated vga doesn't work
> I'm searching for dead pixel,but don't find it...how can I do?
> The bleeding is it in the normal
> Yours value of contrast and brightness?
> P.S.
> My old monitor is a 23" fullhd,but this 27 has pixel and words very little!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/7210#post_17855538
I win. I even stated in the video that you owe me a beer.

I WINNNNNNNNNNN









To find dead pixel Google "find dead pixel".

Iardis was going to win but the customs completely owned him over.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/7210#post_17855538
> I win. I even stated in the video that you owe me a beer.
> I WINNNNNNNNNNN
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To find dead pixel Google "find dead pixel".


OK OK you win







...I will pay with Paypal








How about your monitor?
I got to used with this resolution,and you?
What's about your contrast and color setting?
Wher'is the Turkish man?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> OK OK you win
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I will pay with Paypal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about your monitor?
> I got to used with this resolution,and you?
> What's about your contrast and color setting?
> Wher'is the Turkish man?


Turkish man is probably arguing with customs right now. In Turkish, of course. 

My monitor is great, no dead pixels. A bit of light bleed/IPS glow lower right hand corner, but it's fine. I'm used to the resolution as well; but my start page wallpaper for Chrome is too small for the monitor and lots of my wallpapers are only 1080p.









For calibration use the profiles and directions on page 1 of this thread.

*Guys, help tally the chance of a bad monitor by submitting how well your monitor turned out here:* http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> OK OK you win
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ...I will pay with Paypal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How about your monitor?
> I got to used with this resolution,and you?
> What's about your contrast and color setting?
> Wher'is the Turkish man?


Mine is stuck in the customs and will be proccesed on Monday, earliest I can get is Tuesday.

Gotta love the Turkish Customs.

it is a one lousy monitor for Christ's sake...









By the way I just started a thread in a Turkish Forum and making people aware of these monitors. I already met with someone whom ordered a Crossover a month ago via finding it out over OCN. In Turkey a Dell U2711 costs around 1000$

This monitor is 300$ and i expect to pay something between 100$-250$ for taxes on customs. Yeah it sucks.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Turkish man is probably arguing with customs right now. In Turkish, of course.
> My monitor is great, no dead pixels. A bit of light bleed/IPS glow lower right hand corner, but it's fine. I'm used to the resolution as well; but my start page wallpaper for Chrome is too small for the monitor and lots of my wallpapers are only 1080p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For calibration use the profiles and directions on page 1 of this thread.
> *Guys, help tally the chance of a bad monitor by submitting how well your monitor turned out here:* http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270


Me too for dead pixel and bleeding...online there are a lot high resolution wallpaper
I will try that settings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Mine is stuck in the customs and will be proccesed on Monday, earliest I can get is Tuesday.
> 
> Gotta love the Turkish Customs.
> 
> it is a one lousy monitor for Christ's sake...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> By the way I just started a thread in a Turkish Forum and making people aware of these monitors. I already met with someone whom ordered a Crossover a month ago via finding it out over OCN. In Turkey a Dell U2711 costs around 1000$
> 
> This monitor is 300$ and i expect to pay something between 100$-250$ for taxes on customs. Yeah it sucks.


I'm sorry for you, I've paid € 30 to customers...I was lucky
Hold on mate


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Me too for dead pixel and bleeding...online there are a lot high resolution wallpaper
> I will try that settings
> I'm sorry for you, I've paid € 30 to customers...I was lucky
> Hold on mate


I paid none. LONG LIVE AMERICA!


----------



## Dirtyworks

My Q207 SE perfect pixel caught fire.. what are the chances of getting it replaced? Bought via green-sum


----------



## plum

Welcome to the club guys


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> My Q207 SE perfect pixel caught fire.. what are the chances of getting it replaced? Bought via green-sum


More info please.


----------



## BoredErica

Is it possible for the thread maker to link to the poll at http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270 so people can tally whether their monitor was defective or not? Also, to include info on tempered vs non-tempered and what it is, people keep asking.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Is it possible for the thread maker to link to the poll at http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270 so people can tally whether their monitor was defective or not? Also, to include info on tempered vs non-tempered and what it is, people keep asking.


My monitor is tempered,not indicate in the seller page...I don't care
Mybe tempered is better (not for reflection)


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> My monitor is tempered,not indicate in the seller page...I don't care
> Mybe tempered is better (not for reflection)


I ordered tempered, but Greensum gave me nontempered







. I prefer the aesthetics of a tempered much more, but my monitor has no dead pixels or bad bleed, and it's not worth the hassle of returning and waiting for another. So I'll keep this.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I ordered tempered, but Greensum gave me nontempered
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I prefer the aesthetics of a tempered much more, but my monitor has no dead pixels or bad bleed, and it's not worth the hassle of returning and waiting for another. So I'll keep this.


Did you leave feedback or better waiting finish to test this monitor?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Did you leave feedback or better waiting finish to test this monitor?


I left feedback, gave him a positive feedback but scored him 3/5 for item description.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I left feedback, gave him a positive feedback but scored him 3/5 for item description.


Ok...I can't find confidence with this resolution, is it normal?
I hope fix soon


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Ok...I can't find confidence with this resolution, is it normal?
> I hope fix soon


What do you mean you can't find confidence?


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> What do you mean you can't find confidence?


Menu and words very little...


----------



## BoredErica

Ahh, I see. It's just fine for me. I sit less than 2 feet away from the monitor.







I believe you can ramp up the size of letters. Right click, screen resolution, 'make text larger' and voila. (For windows 7)


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Ahh, I see. It's just fine for me. I sit less than 2 feet away from the monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I believe you can ramp up the size of letters. Right click, screen resolution, 'make text larger' and voila. (For windows 7)


Ok..set to 111%
Maybe better 30" for this resolution?


----------



## BoredErica

I don't want bigger monitor same resolution, kills the point of this monitor. I'd just bump up the text size via settings.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I don't want bigger monitor same resolution, kills the point of this monitor. I'd just bump up the text size via settings.


Anyway I like this monitor, considers that I'm using VGA connector with integrated HD3000








September is time for new VGA


----------



## BoredErica

My full review is at http://www.overclock.net/products/yamakasi-catleap-q270-se-27-led-2560x1440-wqhd-dvi-d-dual-computer-monitor/reviews

It should answer almost any question people have about this monitor.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> My full review is at http://www.overclock.net/products/yamakasi-catleap-q270-se-27-led-2560x1440-wqhd-dvi-d-dual-computer-monitor/reviews
> It should answer almost any question people have about this monitor.


But yours is 2703 model,not Q270


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bigmac11*
> 
> More info please.


Simply started sizzling and smoke rose from the back.. Flickered and then died.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> But yours is 2703 model,not Q270


It's really the same thing. 2703 has a better stand. That's about it.


----------



## Dirtyworks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> It's really the same thing. 2703 has a better stand. That's about it.


With that logic, you might as well call the apple cinema display, crossover and shimian the same as the q207.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> It's really the same thing. 2703 has a better stand. That's about it.


Yes I saw
I will build a new stable stand,this is to instable when I push the butoon menu
Tomorrow I will post some pics








Goddnight!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> With that logic, you might as well call the apple cinema display, crossover and shimian the same as the q207.


Not really. The Crossover has a better build quality. The 2703 literally just has a different stand from all I've read. Literally just the stand. Crossover has a steel backing, different company, different price. Shimians have higher malfunctioning rates, different price, and different company. The Apple has a very different price, company, and panel grade.

With your logic we'll need a different rating page for a Catleap Q270 with a white vs black bezel.


----------



## ezikiel12

Out for delivery august 1st.

"need address information"

Out for delivery August 2nd

"need address information"

I call DHL and they said they cant get into my building and my land lord isn't in the office to drop off the package. The douche bag leaves early all the time.

Out for delivery August 3rd

It's now 5:30 and my landlord is gone from the office. I left a note for them to call me when they get to the door. Called DHL and they said I couldn't pick it up till Monday if I don't get it today.

Ordered from Bigclothcraft 8 days ago and I live on the West Coast United States. Needless to say, not happy at all. Not DHL's fault, my apartment doesn't give a damn about mail.


----------



## steveotron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> Simply started sizzling and smoke rose from the back.. Flickered and then died.


I posted a few pages back and I pretty much had the same thing happen. Not sure if it's the power brick's fault or something else. Sent pictures to green-sum and I guess they have to clear it with the manufacturer first. Not sure what the pictures will do since you can't see the fried internals.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steveotron*
> 
> I posted a few pages back and I pretty much had the same thing happen. Not sure if it's the power brick's fault or something else. Sent pictures to green-sum and I guess they have to clear it with the manufacturer first. Not sure what the pictures will do since you can't see the fried internals.


God, that is just terrible...







You win some and you lose some.


----------



## unpwnntent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> My Q207 SE perfect pixel caught fire.. what are the chances of getting it replaced? Bought via green-sum


This is going to worry me to no end. How long did you have the monitor working before it showed signs of 'internal spontaneous combustion'? Or did you just hit the power button then poof...?
Very unfortunate to hear


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ezikiel12*
> 
> Out for delivery august 1st.
> "need address information"
> Out for delivery August 2nd
> "need address information"
> I call DHL and they said they cant get into my building and my land lord isn't in the office to drop off the package. The douche bag leaves early all the time.
> Out for delivery August 3rd
> It's now 5:30 and my landlord is gone from the office. I left a note for them to call me when they get to the door. Called DHL and they said I couldn't pick it up till Monday if I don't get it today. What a pile of ****.
> Ordered from Bigclothcraft 8 days ago and I live on the West Coast United States. Needless to say, not happy at all. Not DHL's fault, my apartment doesn't give a damn about mail.


I ordered a Catleap 2703 from him Wednesday evening, and I got it today around 2 this afternoon. Less that 46 hrs from purchase to using it. And I couldn't be happier. Sorry you have a $h*t landlord who leaves early.


----------



## mscall92

Q270 came in today. I be completely blown away by the awesomeness I see contained (o_0)! I got it set up and played some dragon age origins, as well as a couple bf3 games, and I absolutely LOVE the colors compared to any TN I've seen







! The only thing left to do is wait for the 120Hz pcbs to start selling standalone and I'll be golden!









PS. No dead pixels noticed so far, and minimal IPS glow compared to my dell u2412m. I'll get some pics tomorrow if I can get myself torn from my games...


----------



## Majorhi

Just a quick shot of the monitor with my desktop.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Is it possible for the thread maker to link to the poll at http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270 so people can tally whether their monitor was defective or not? Also, to include info on tempered vs non-tempered and what it is, people keep asking.


Post your experiences in the thread then fill out the survey and link your post. Much better information than some random poll IMO.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Post your experiences in the thread then fill out the survey and link your post. Much better information than some random poll IMO.


I did.
But most people will never bother, so I recommend a poll since it takes 3 seconds to do.


----------



## turkletont

Sorry I'm a total newb but can my 5870 run one of these?

AMD website tells me this:
ntegrated dual-link DVI output with HDCP12
Max resolution: 2560x160013

but on one of the ebay pages it has supported video cards and it says no to the 5870.

Thanks


----------



## plum

It won't print out the BIOS, but it should work once into Windows


----------



## turkletont

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> It won't print out the BIOS, but it should work once into Windows


Is that in response to me?

If so, thanks so much. Looking forward to buying one


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *turkletont*
> 
> Is that in response to me?
> If so, thanks so much. Looking forward to buying one


Yes it is.


----------



## Astr627

Ordered White model from BCC. Waiting the shipment. Will post some pics when I get it.
Do it work with Macbook? Can I use thunderbolt to Dual-link DVI?


----------



## BoredErica

My understanding, it won't work with laptops.


----------



## huyyy

green sum is offering me 60$ cash back or a replacement of the unit for my single dead pixel

has anyone had any experience with replacements? i.e how long the process was?


----------



## steveotron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> green sum is offering me 60$ cash back or a replacement of the unit for my single dead pixel
> has anyone had any experience with replacements? i.e how long the process was?


It just takes whatever time for DHL (or whatever carrier) to pick up your unit, drop it off back in Korea (2-3 days), and the time it takes to ship a new monitor (same time frame as a new order). I'm guessing about a week as long as long as there aren't any customs issues.

Did you order a pixel perfect version?


----------



## huyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steveotron*
> 
> It just takes whatever time for DHL (or whatever carrier) to pick up your unit, drop it off back in Korea (2-3 days), and the time it takes to ship a new monitor (same time frame as a new order). I'm guessing about a week as long as long as there aren't any customs issues.
> Did you order a pixel perfect version?


yeah i ordered a pixel perfect but ended with a bright green pixel that wont go away =S

should i get my monitor replaced or should i deal with? also do they pay for the shipping or do i have to fork that out from my pocket?


----------



## ziofranco

Some pics of my Q270

It works with integrated HD3000 with VGA connection
HDMI works with my external sat tuner in 720p


----------



## steveotron

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> yeah i ordered a pixel perfect but ended with a bright green pixel that wont go away =S
> should i get my monitor replaced or should i deal with? also do they pay for the shipping or do i have to fork that out from my pocket?


If the policy is that you would have no defective pixels and if green-sum agrees to that, then he should cover it. He would give you the necessary info to schedule a pick-up and the monetary stuff is handled on his side. Whether you should return it or not simply depends on how much that bright pixel is going to bug you.


----------



## shimpchip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *steveotron*
> 
> If the policy is that you would have no defective pixels and if green-sum agrees to that, then he should cover it. He would give you the necessary info to schedule a pick-up and the monetary stuff is handled on his side. Whether you should return it or not simply depends on how much that bright pixel is going to bug you.


I believe the perfect pixel policy only covers dead pixels.


----------



## eternal7trance

The perfect pixel ones are just a way to get more money out of you. You still have the same chance of getting a bad one if you didn't buy it.

From my experience, these guys take forever to respond but they are true to their word and replace/refund.

It took a while but mine refunded me $150 because I had to replace a wire inside mine. It was through dcsamsungmall.


----------



## huyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shimpchip*
> 
> I believe the perfect pixel policy only covers dead pixels.


i sent green sum a picture of the pixel and he offered me a 60$ refund or a replacement


----------



## zzTroyzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> i sent green sum a picture of the pixel and he offered me a 60$ refund or a replacement


If you ordered a perfect pixel display, you could have got a "regular" one for $60 less anyway... If you're okay with one pixel then I'd ask for $80 back, and communicate through an open dispute with PayPal (assuming thats how you paid). Otherwise just grab the replacement, but always open a paypal dispute with these things--and never close it early.


----------



## ivoryg37

Are the quality of a multi cat leap with HDMI and the cat leap with just dvi-d the same? I'm thinking of getting another cat leap with just dvi-d


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Are the quality of a multi cat leap with HDMI and the cat leap with just dvi-d the same? I'm thinking of getting another cat leap with just dvi-d


It's the same
Are you use HDMI for 2560x1440 resolution?


----------



## bjgrenke

Seems like every time I check this thread it's just repeat questions


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Seems like every time I check this thread it's just repeat questions


How dare you tell people to search for something!


----------



## bigmac11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dirtyworks*
> 
> Simply started sizzling and smoke rose from the back.. Flickered and then died.


Sorry to hear that. Have you contacted the seller?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> How dare you tell people to search for something!


True







Scribby should add a massive, in-depth FAQ to the OP. I'd be willing to write it up









EDIT: Looks like there is one.. obviously doesn't cover enough


----------



## BoredErica

HDMI included may have slightly higher input lag.


----------



## FishHeadswg

So I bought a Catleap that said USA SALE ONLY and he ships me a Korean power cord.

In guess I need to buy an adapter?


----------



## Prymus

The cord end is just like your old monitor cord...you should be able to plug it in cleanly that's what I did.


----------



## plum

Any normal PSU power cable will work, no need for an adapter but I guess it comes down to the same thing.


----------



## FishHeadswg

Well, I plugged it in with my old monitor's plug. Behold the magic of Fedex Express.










I ordered it two weeks ago to my new address and just now turned it on, we'll see how this plays out.


----------



## Mixy

Well, it's broken.


----------



## BoredErica

Mine came with no bubble rap, but was unharmed except for a small scratch at the back. It's not like I look at the back of my monitor 24/7, anyways.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Mine came with no bubble rap, but was unharmed except for a small scratch at the back. It's not like I look at the back of my monitor 24/7, anyways.


Me too with no bubble rap,the same seller...luckily monitor is ok


----------



## ziofranco

@Darkwizzie

I red your review, and you write that ther's no OSD control color and brightness?
Are you sure?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Well, I plugged it in with my old monitor's plug. Behold the magic of Fedex Express.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered it two weeks ago to my new address and just now turned it on, we'll see how this plays out.


Ouch.. keep us updated..


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> @Darkwizzie
> I red your review, and you write that ther's no OSD control color and brightness?
> Are you sure?


No OSD color controls, others can control brightness with buttons. All of which can be controlled by software.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> No OSD color controls, others can control brightness with buttons. All of which can be controlled by software.


I have OSD color controls (red,blue green)


----------



## plum

SE models only have brightness control. Only the Multi model has OSD.


----------



## huyyy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zzTroyzz*
> 
> If you ordered a perfect pixel display, you could have got a "regular" one for $60 less anyway... If you're okay with one pixel then I'd ask for $80 back, and communicate through an open dispute with PayPal (assuming thats how you paid). Otherwise just grab the replacement, but always open a paypal dispute with these things--and never close it early.


thanks for your advice, i think i'm going to get it replaced, so you're saying that i should open a paypal dispute and leave it open until i receive my new display?


----------



## SuprUsrStan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Well, I plugged it in with my old monitor's plug. Behold the magic of Fedex Express.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered it two weeks ago to my new address and just now turned it on, we'll see how this plays out.


I literally said "OH ****" out loud when I saw that. Made my mom turn around and look at me >.>


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Some pics of my Q270
> It works with integrated HD3000 with VGA connection
> HDMI works with my external sat tuner in 720p


can u try using a custom resolution 1440p over vga


----------



## Rayzer

I bought a Q271 with HDMI from BCC and it came from South Korea in 2 days! I can't find any stuck or dead pixels and I haven't noticed any backlight bleed either. The display looks gorgeous, definitely well worth the $400 shipped.

And the think I was going to spend $1000+ on the Samsung S27A970..


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> True
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scribby should add a massive, in-depth FAQ to the OP. I'd be willing to write it up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Looks like there is one.. obviously doesn't cover enough


I keep meaning to re-do the OP, but then a question is posted that is clearly covered in the original OP and say to myself - "Why bother, no one reads it anyway!!"

One day it may get a complete face lift - one day.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> So I bought a Catleap that said USA SALE ONLY and he ships me a Korean power cord.
> In guess I need to buy an adapter?


Ya, that guy is either drop shipping Cats from Korea (and he lives in the US) or is just lying. There are no US-based distributors of Witech products at the moment.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Well, I plugged it in with my old monitor's plug. Behold the magic of Fedex Express.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered it two weeks ago to my new address and just now turned it on, we'll see how this plays out.


Major owie. Yes, please post back on how the return goes.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I keep meaning to re-do the OP, but then a question is posted that is clearly covered in the original OP and say to myself - "Why bother, no one reads it anyway!!"
> 
> One day it may get a complete face lift - one day.


I, for one, read it. XD
I figure I'd piss people off if I ask a million questions covered in the FAQ.


----------



## zzTroyzz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *huyyy*
> 
> thanks for your advice, i think i'm going to get it replaced, so you're saying that i should open a paypal dispute and leave it open until i receive my new display?


Yes, open a dispute to protect yourself and deal with the return through the dispute. If its not resolved PayPal will give you your money back. If you close it prematurely you cannot reopen it. PayPal will place the funds on question on hold, so its in the sellers account but they can't withdraw it until the dispute is resolved.
https://www.paypal.com/us/webapps/mpp/security/seller-problem-resolution


----------



## MAD-DUKE

This arrived after purchase late last month and was able to overclock it to 113hz. I wall mounted it according to the stand removal guide here.
I have not gone looking for any issues but this thing is perfect by my standards. No noticeable back-light bleed, brown tint spots or dead pixels.
I'm very pleased.
Would have preferred to get it to >120hz, but 113 is close enough and I am satisfied.
LOVING IT !!!!!

Thought id share a pic, if anyone cared.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I keep meaning to re-do the OP, but then a question is posted that is clearly covered in the original OP and say to myself - "Why bother, no one reads it anyway!!"


That probably applies to every single owner club thread on OCN...


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MAD-DUKE*
> 
> This arrived after purchase late last month and was able to overclock it to 113hz. I wall mounted it according to the stand removal guide here.
> I have not gone looking for any issues but this thing is perfect by my standards. No noticeable back-light bleed, brown tint spots or dead pixels.
> I'm very pleased.
> Would have preferred to get it to >120hz, but 113 is close enough and I am satisfied.
> LOVING IT !!!!!
> Thought id share a pic, if anyone cared.


Nice picture and wall mount! 113 hz, that is quite higher than the average 60-70 I'm seeing. Mine goes up to 65, won't hit 70. I don't see any difference between 60-65hz, and I'm dying to see a 120hz to see what the fuss is all about. Sure, there are videos, but the only real way for me to see what it's like is to see one in person. It's like trying to video-tape a glossy IPS to show its colors are way better than a dull matte TN.


----------



## superroach

Wow, I was *this* close to buying a Q270 SE.
On reading about the Q271, it seems to have a few nice perks, mainly the nicer stand. Has their been a review of that screen yet?

Also being multi, it will have more input lag as mentioned elsewhere on here. Has anyone measured how much extra lag the Q270 Multi version has vs the normal one?

*edit*
Annnd I sprung for the Q271.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Nice picture and wall mount! 113 hz, that is quite higher than the average 60-70 I'm seeing. Mine goes up to 65, won't hit 70. I don't see any difference between 60-65hz, and I'm dying to see a 120hz to see what the fuss is all about. Sure, there are videos, but the only real way for me to see what it's like is to see one in person. It's like trying to video-tape a glossy IPS to show its colors are way better than a dull matte TN.


LOL the dif is 120hz and 60hz... go into a game and spin around in a circle real fast... you will see on 60 hz it gets kinda blurry on 120hz it will not..

I myself dont go around in games spinning in circles... so pretty worthless for me.

60hz Also if you jerk your mouse to the left or right very fast you will get a tiny tad bit of blur... which is hardly noticeable. On 120hz you will not.

Back in my youth i was ranked #1 in the world in many FPS all on 60hz screens...
Now i have to squint to read text on a screen lol. my eyes are really bad now.


----------



## LC155

I prefer ignorance is bliss. I can wait until 120hz is standard and cards can push that and 1440p+ resolutions with ease before I decide to upgrade.

What you don't know can't hurt you.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I prefer ignorance is bliss. I can wait until 120hz is standard and cards can push that and 1440p+ resolutions with ease before I decide to upgrade.
> What you don't know can't hurt you.


Good thing i do know and own a 120hz screen that my HTPC is hooked to









Yanked the 570 out of my back up SB rig hooked up into my i5 750 HTPC rig...

Logged into my Origin account installed BF3 and tested the diff in the two and that was all i could notice purposely trying to create a diff in the two panels.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I prefer ignorance is bliss. I can wait until 120hz is standard and cards can push that and 1440p+ resolutions with ease before I decide to upgrade.
> What you don't know can't hurt you.


Soon grasshopper! And that day has come for GPUs - several cards can now easily push that many pixels and more. The answers are out there if you look - LOL!


----------



## LC155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Soon grasshopper! And that day has come for GPUs - several cards can now easily push that many pixels and more. The answers are out there if you look - LOL!


True, but I'll wait to see what we have with the 700 series.


----------



## Hokies83

Im 100% with you that 2560x1440 + 120hz should be the new Monitor Standard tho.
1080p should be reserved for your TV.


----------



## iARDAs

Unless there are 1440p 120hz built monitors, the norm should first be 1440p.

Also consoles will always stall (not stop) the future of PCs. Since the upcoming consoles will probably be 1080p, not 1440p as there are not TVs that can do that, i really doubt that 120hz 1440p panels are close. Maybe in 2-3 years.


----------



## LC155

I dunno... the recent trend with the 1440p displays plus the huge demand for 120hz on them might push that a bit forward.

These displays are still getting around, and I've no doubt the big names have taken notice of the demand for IPS 120hz, but that's just a hope.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Unless there are 1440p 120hz built monitors, the norm should first be 1440p.
> 
> Also consoles will always stall (not stop) the future of PCs. Since the upcoming consoles will probably be 1080p, not 1440p as there are not TVs that can do that, i really doubt that 120hz 1440p panels are close. Maybe in 2-3 years.


Yeah the horrid console ports... i am seeing how bad it is now playing Fall out New Vegas ....

They should first design games for pc then remove the eye candy for the consoles...

But that is not how it is... But when it does happen like Crysis did Gpus were getting there butts kicked lol.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LC155*
> 
> I dunno... the recent trend with the 1440p displays plus the huge demand for 120hz on them might push that a bit forward.
> These displays are still getting around, and I've no doubt the big names have taken notice of the demand for IPS 120hz, but that's just a hope.


Still the market is not as high to optimize games for 120hz. Many games are capped at 60fps out there, maybe not AAA titles but still most games are capped. Even if you can remove that cap to 120hz, you can not always game in 120hz even though you might have the right hardware. I mean i was playing borderlands for the last 2 weeks with my 120hz screen and i removed the FPS cap via the.ini file, the game DID go up to 120hz but in many occasions it fell down to 60-70 fps with 40% GPU usage. Clearly the game was not optimized for 120hz. The only reason (maybe not only but biggest ) that we actually have 120hz in PC games is because of 3D, not because of how 120hz is smooth.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah the horrid console ports... i am seeing how bad it is now playing Fall out New Vegas ....
> They should first design games for pc then remove the eye candy for the consoles...
> But that is not how it is... But when it does happen like Crysis did Gpus were getting there butts kicked lol.


I love that game but it is a mediocre console port. Still beats playing the game on console, but it could have been better if it was also properly developed for PC.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> can u try using a custom resolution 1440p over vga


Just tried...it works fine


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Soon grasshopper! And that day has come for GPUs - several cards can now easily push that many pixels and more. The answers are out there if you look - LOL!


O I C WUT U DID DER!

Also, I agree, 1080p for TV's because you are kind of 10 feet away from it vs 1-3 with a monitor.


----------



## MAD-DUKE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Logged into my Origin account installed BF3 and tested the diff in the two and that was all i could notice purposely trying to create a diff in the two panels.


This is exactly what I did last night. I have never been good with FPS games and haven't played one since BF3 first came out. I'm use to a negative KDR. I remembered how great it looked so I wanted to see what it would look like on this new monitor on Ultra. In all the games I played I had a positive KDR... nothing super... but then again Im not an FPSer.


----------



## corhen

just checking in. i have had this monitor for roughly 3 months now, and it still works perfectly fine.

Once in a while i turn it on to a huge number of lines on the screen, but rebooting the monitor has always fixed it!

still love it!


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Unless there are 1440p 120hz built monitors, the norm should first be 1440p.
> 
> Also consoles will always stall (not stop) the future of PCs. Since the upcoming consoles will probably be 1080p, not 1440p as there are not TVs that can do that, *i really doubt that 120hz 1440p panels are close. Maybe in 2-3 years.*


You mean TVs only? I hope so since the day of the 27" 1440 120hz monitor is here.


----------



## plum

I guess we're in 2015 already Scribby


----------



## ehpexs

So I'm trying to get ready for these (I'll be buying these in either october or november) I'm going to try and run these off one card. What sort of upgrades will I need to run these?


----------



## unpwnntent

This is great news to hear. I don't know if this idea was ever mentioned in this thread, but if we can have a sub-section in the OP post tallying the longevity of these catleap monitors it would prove infinitely useful for present and future buyers.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

At this time it is too early for a longevity poll - I will post one in 6 more months!


----------



## moose517

I don't ever post here on OCN but i'm hoping someone can answer me what i thought originally would be a super simple question. I have the DVI input only models of the catleap and i'm really wanting to hook my PS3 up when i decide i want to watch a blu-ray or play a game. Could anybody help me figure out what i would need so that i can go from the HDMI to the dual-link DVI? Or is there any way to hook up a dual link DVI cable as well as the HDMI to a switch that will output via dual-link DVI? rather not have to switch cables on a daily basis.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moose517*
> 
> I don't ever post here on OCN but i'm hoping someone can answer me what i thought originally would be a super simple question. I have the DVI input only models of the catleap and i'm really wanting to hook my PS3 up when i decide i want to watch a blu-ray or play a game. Could anybody help me figure out what i would need so that i can go from the HDMI to the dual-link DVI? Or is there any way to hook up a dual link DVI cable as well as the HDMI to a switch that will output via dual-link DVI? rather not have to switch cables on a daily basis.


Eww Console gaming sell that thing and build a gaming pc!

But anywho... Monoprice.com... Has some Dvi to Hdmi adaptors may work for you.


----------



## moose517

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Eww Console gaming sell that thing and build a gaming pc!
> But anywho... Monoprice.com... Has some Dvi to Hdmi adaptors may work for you.


haha console gaming isn't my primary by any chance! I've got one rocking PC but those few PS3 exclusives... Not sure why i didn't think about monoprice haha.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> You mean TVs only? I hope so since the day of the 27" 1440 120hz monitor is here.


I didnt know that, I know OCable 1440p 120hz is possible via catleap's older models but I did not see any officially built 1440p 120hz monitors.

Which one is that?


----------



## b7fLuid

Hey folks,

just wanted to update you guys on an adapter that works with the Q270. I was having problems with my BenQ XL2410T reaching 120hz with the Q270 attached at 2560*1440. This splitter has solved my problem, but it is expensive at $69. I have the Sapphire 7850HD with only 1 Dual link DVI connector. I'm sure there are cheaper options out there, but this was reasonable for me.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=6904&seq=1&format=2

fLuid


----------



## dctravis

Ok, i know this is probably a rare problem so there are probably no devices built for it but here goes. I plan to put 5 of these bad boys in eyefinity... Only problem is finding a way to supply the connections to all 5 monitors. obviously there is no card with 5 dual link dvi adapters... I would get the 690's as they have 3 dual link dvis and wait for a mst hub to come out for the displayport slot but it only has effectively 2GB of ram per core and that will not be nearly enough. BF3 already gets up to 2.8-3GB of ram on a 3 monitor display using these resolutions... If anyone can point me towards a good card I would be forever grateful and if anybody knows what the cheapest mini displayport or displayport to dual link dvi adapter is please let me know.

oh and if there is a powered displayport adapter is it possible to do a wall powered usb hub with no pc connection whatsoever?

Mod edit: Please use the edit button instead of double posting.


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Well, I plugged it in with my old monitor's plug. Behold the magic of Fedex Express.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I ordered it two weeks ago to my new address and just now turned it on, we'll see how this plays out.


It's been 2 days now and not a peep from the guy I bought it from (http://myworld.ebay.com/pallascospi/?_trksid=p4340.l2559).

I'm not sure if he's ignoring me or just slow to respond. His feedback rating is pretty good.

I'm guessing I'll have to open a case with ebay/paypal or issue a charge-back if I don't hear from him by tomorrow.


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dctravis*
> 
> Ok, i know this is probably a rare problem so there are probably no devices built for it but here goes. I plan to put 5 of these bad boys in eyefinity... Only problem is finding a way to supply the connections to all 5 monitors. obviously there is no card with 5 dual link dvi adapters... I would get the 690's as they have 3 dual link dvis and wait for a mst hub to come out for the displayport slot but it only has effectively 2GB of ram per core and that will not be nearly enough. BF3 already gets up to 2.8-3GB of ram on a 3 monitor display using these resolutions... If anyone can point me towards a good card I would be forever grateful and if anybody knows what the cheapest mini displayport or displayport to dual link dvi adapter is please let me know.
> oh and if there is a powered displayport adapter is it possible to do a wall powered usb hub with no pc connection whatsoever?
> Mod edit: Please use the edit button instead of double posting.


Get the 6gb Saphire Toxic 7970! A sick card if I've ever seen one, and the 6gb will surely be used at the resolution!


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> Get the 6gb Saphire Toxic 7970! A sick card if I've ever seen one, and the 6gb will surely be used at the resolution!


He is gonna like need 3-4 of them to have enough power to run 5 lol.


----------



## dctravis

Problem is I can only fit 3 max on any motherboard for the toxic or the vapor xs. that and their outputs suck until mst hubs are released...


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dctravis*
> 
> Problem is I can only fit 3 max on any motherboard for the toxic or the vapor xs. that and their outputs suck until mst hubs are released...


Get 3 and water cool and overclock them. you be fine on Vram but that is alot of pix for a gpu to render lol.


----------



## dctravis

I love the toxics for performance, but I can only get 3 high resolution monitors on it though... Unless anyone has seen mst hubs that have actually released, but so far ive only seen prototypes... If these become available i will probably just get two monitors until mst hubs are actually released. anybody know if there are any cheaper displayport or hdmi to dvi adapters than the apple versions? I prefer not to give any money to apple if possible.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dctravis*
> 
> I love the toxics for performance, but I can only get 3 high resolution monitors on it though... Unless anyone has seen mst hubs that have actually released, but so far ive only seen prototypes... If these become available i will probably just get two monitors until mst hubs are actually released. anybody know if there are any cheaper displayport or hdmi to dvi adapters than the apple versions? I prefer not to give any money to apple if possible.


Best prices ive found active dp to DL Dvi is on Ebay there in the mid 30$ range. Dell Bizlinks.


----------



## dctravis

Thanks for the link hokies. Does anybody know if the tempered glass model has less bezel than the plastic or vice versa? I'm thinking I might remove the casing, but would rather not if it is acceptable when using.


----------



## b7fLuid

Hey dctravis,

sorry for the double post earlier, I couldn't figure out how to delete a post once it's been posted.

I'm pretty sure that you can use the displayport to dual dvi link I suggested in post #7334 as long as the card you buy has multiple mini-displayport connectors. It is expensive though but considering your planned setup, I don't think money is the issue. lol


----------



## pandatoucher

As far as running 5 of these in Eyefinity it seems impossible at the moment. Nvidia wont allow more than 3 in surround and all 7970's do not have the ports for it. no matter how you look at it now the most you could squeeze out of any 7970 is 4 monitors and that's assuming you use one of the Multi inputs with HDMI.








a sad day for 5 eyefinity displays. You may also want to talk to VEGA as he had originally planned to do a 5 eyefinity setup but stopped at 3 and abandoned the project due to large amounts of stuttering IIRC. If this is the case then it might not be worth it even if you find an ATI card with 5 DP.

He was trying to run them at 120Hz but I would think stuttering would effect it even at 60 Hz. I always wanted to ask him if it was a bandwidth limitation which i would assume it was due to the nature of Xfire and how it works...

But that is neither here nor there...


----------



## FishHeadswg

Edited for language.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Looks like he wants me to return the monitor to S Korea, which would cost as much as the monitor itself.


Make him pay return shipping if he wants u to return it...


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Make him pay return shipping if he wants u to return it...


We'll see.

Edited for language... again. Damn my profanity.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

That is the drawback to buying these things off eBay. A risk we all knew was there - the only positive side is the numbers show about a 4-5% defect rate (at least what I have seen reported by owners) so that is good. The numbers could be slightly lower too since if you are happy with a product you don't always report that fact.


----------



## FishHeadswg

I knew it was a risk, but I think I have a right to be pissed off when the risk backfires on me.

Right now I feel like simply going straight to my credit card and issuing a chargeback since this guy won't even respond to me and return shipping is a complete waste since the monitor is clearly broken beyond repair.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> How do I "make" him do that, though?
> Paypal basically requires me to return it for a refund. The only thing I can really do is threaten him with negative feedback.


Let him know your telling ppl here about your exp with him since a huge amount of his sells read this thread he may sway him i kno there is no way in this world id pay return shipping on that thing.


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Let him know your telling ppl here about your exp with him since a huge amount of his sells read this thread he may sway him i kno there is no way in this world id pay return shipping on that thing.


The thought crossed my mind.


----------



## b7fLuid

Hey folks,

just wanted to verify that monoprice monitor stand PID 5970 works well with the q270.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

fLuid


----------



## plum

Really sucks that happened to you FishHeadswg, but why did you go with that unknown seller in the first place? BCC and green-sum are known to pay for shipping returns. I'm going to assume it was because you were trying to save a quick 10-20$? =/


----------



## FishHeadswg

No, it was because they were only selling the white Catleaps which I didn't want.


----------



## Relance

Has anyone ever asked any of these sellers for a better price when buying two of these monitors?
What were your prices like? Also, how long did it take for them to respond?


----------



## FishHeadswg

Finally got a response:
Quote:


> Dear ,
> 
> I am sorry for your inconvenience.
> We will do our best to help you.
> I have some questions.
> We test all the monitors before shipping them. The product arrived on July 25th, 7 p.m exactly.
> You mailed us on August 4th. Also, your picture looks like the monitor was installed already.
> If it was being used already and it was damaged, we can't help you.
> If it was broken during the shipping process, was it damaged on the box when you got the product?
> (If it had been damaged on the box, Fedex would have contacted us.)
> To make it clear, we would inspect with Fedex of America and Korea.
> I am looking forward to your reply.
> 
> - pallascospi


That middle part concerns me since it looks perfectly fine until it's turned on, so obviously I hooked it up.

I'm not sure if he's trying to pull something on me or what.


----------



## plum

How does broken glass look perfectly fine o_o
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> No, it was because they were only selling the white Catleaps which I didn't want.


BCC and green-sum are selling both, not just white catleaps.


----------



## FishHeadswg

It's broken on the inside panel:

Off:










On:










As for bcc and green, they didn't have the black ones listed when I was buying.


----------



## plum

Ah okay, well those pictures prove everything then. Should be enough to convince him.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Finally got a response:
> That middle part concerns me since it looks perfectly fine until it's turned on, so obviously I hooked it up.
> I'm not sure if he's trying to pull something on me or what.


Hope it'll be sorted. However, this part here: "The product arrived on July 25th, 7 p.m exactly.
You mailed us on August 4th.", is it true? If it is, then it's more than a week since you've received it. The return policy is only good for 7 day. Please keep us updated. Good luck.


----------



## FishHeadswg

What do you suggest, exactly?

I'm working with a crappy laptop CyberLink webcam here. Taking a single picture is a massive hassle.


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Hope it'll be sorted. However, this part here: "The product arrived on July 25th, 7 p.m exactly.
> You mailed us on August 4th.", is it true? If it is, then it's more than a week since you've received it. The return policy is only good for 7 day. Please keep us updated. Good luck.


Yeah, I was moving to Colorado and sent it ahead of me. I have an itinerary showing I arrived in Colorado from Florida on the 3rd, I contacted him on the 4th.

Honestly, I wasn't expecting the monitor to be smashed or for it to be an issue. This whole thing is like the prefect storm. Hopefully it all works out in the end, though.


----------



## Hokies83

Id open a paypal claim for a refund in the amount u paid for it.. If his next reply is not a good one.

Paypal is Pro buyer Sellers do not stand much of a chance anymore..

He will have to recoop his money from Fedex,


----------



## vtsimple

Just ordered Catleap Q270 LED SE from green-sum for ~$310... Hopefully it'll be good! Wish me luck.


----------



## iARDAs

Mine just got cleared from the Customs. I will have to pay 100$

I will have the monitor tomorrow.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Finally got a response:
> That middle part concerns me since it looks perfectly fine until it's turned on, so obviously I hooked it up.
> I'm not sure if he's trying to pull something on me or what.


"If it was being used already and it was damaged, we can't help you."

Think he means if it was in use and working OK when you got it, then you broke the screen after you had it a while.

So was the box damaged ?

Do you think it happened in transit, or when it was being packed in the box at the factory / sellers (so called) visual check ?

Looks like the screen has had a lot of focused pressure right on where the cracks start (bottom middle).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Id open a paypal claim for a refund in the amount u paid for it.. If his next reply is not a good one.
> Paypal is Pro buyer Sellers do not stand much of a chance anymore..
> He will have to recoop his money from Fedex,


He would also have to send the monitor back at his cost, before Paypal return the money to the buyer.


----------



## quakermaas

Double post


----------



## Gainder

Seems that I am experiencing every problem one could have with this monitor, first was DOA, then the new one has a dead pixel and now is starting buzzing.
The hum starts after it is on for a while and becomes hot, and is loud when the screen is white for the most part of it.
I have read the guide on the first post and I tried to put hot glue (don't have epoxy atm) on the two choke (220) placed on the green pcb,
but it didn't solve the problem.
So I completely dismounted the monitor in every piece to found the source of the noise, and found that it was coming mainly from the blue pcb, specifically from the right part (as in figure).
I think it's the big coil choke, as I have found that coil noise is a common issue,
and also the guide mentions these chokes to be covered.

Now this choke is bigger and different from the two 220 mentioned in the guide.
Should I cover it completely with hot glue / epoxy?
Should I fill the hole?

I also found that nail polish can do the trick.

Sorry but I know 0 about electronic matters.
Thanks for help!


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gainder*
> 
> Seems that I am experiencing every problem one could have with this monitor, first was DOA, then the new one has a dead pixel and now is starting buzzing.
> The hum starts after it is on for a while and becomes hot, and is loud when the screen is white for the most part of it.
> I have read the guide on the first post and I tried to put hot glue (don't have epoxy atm) on the two choke (220) placed on the green pcb,
> but it didn't solve the problem.
> So I completely dismounted the monitor in every piece to found the source of the noise, and found that it was coming mainly from the blue pcb, specifically from the right part (as in figure).
> I think it's the big coil choke, as I have found that coil noise is a common issue,
> and also the guide mentions these chokes to be covered.
> Now this choke is bigger and different from the two 220 mentioned in the guide.
> Should I cover it completely with hot glue / epoxy?
> Should I fill the hole?
> I also found that nail polish can do the trick.
> Sorry but I know 0 about electronic matters.
> Thanks for help!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I don't think the hot glue would damage the coil in any way, I have put it on much more sensitive electronics before.


----------



## gunhound45

Hey guys, I have a problem where the monitor displays an image fine for around a minute, but then it flickers and turns off. After cycling the power, the problem repeats.

Can anyone help me?


----------



## unpwnntent

*Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE (Perfect Pixel)*

*Vendor:* Green-Sum

*Shipment to:* Toronto, Ontario, Canada
*Custom Fees/Duties:* ~$50 (Still worth it. So far...)

*Order Time:* Wednesday afternoon (Aug 1)
*Arrival Time:* Tuesday Morning (9:00AM, Aug 7)

---

*Dead Pixels:* None (that I have found)

*Screen Damage:* None

*Backlight Bleed:* Slight bleed from the bottom right. Will just shift my work to the upper half of the monitor if I need to.

*Buzzing Noise:* None

*Monitor Stand:* THE worst I have had so far. Since I won't be touching the screen much however, and since my table is fairly resilient to movement, it's not a significant problem.

*Power Brick/Adapter:* LOADUS ac/dc Adapter. A small sticker beneath the large label states it is 110v acceptable. Been running for 40 minutes and it's fairly warm. Nothing crazy yet.

_** UPDATE **: I've kept the monitor running for over 4 hours now, and the adapter is getting pretty hot. It's making me slightly nervous, but I don't recall touching an AC/DC Adapter as often as I have here. Is it normal for adapters to get this hot?

**DOUBLE UPDATE**: It has been almost a week now, and no problems whatsoever. I think this monitor is here to stay.
_

*Video Card:* EVGA Geforce GTX 460

---

Here are some pictures of the unboxing, in addition to some thoughts.


The delivery guy came at my door and asked me about the monitor. Unsurprisingly he revealed he had about 15 of these in his truck to deliver today. The magic of community forums eh?










Seems standard.



Stared at the stand's plate for a little while. The build quality is evidently sub-par, but I have it hooked up now and it's doing its job. Took my a little white to have the monitor firmly attached to the plate because the screws seemed a little unaligned. It's all good now. It was just me.





Popped in some Trine 2 to see how glorious the colours are. It's my first IPS monitor so there's nothing I can base my judgement on, but it does look very nice. Camera overexposes the brightness, but it does look great. Plenty of real-estate and it will really help with my workflow in After Effects, Photoshop and Illustrator.

---

Conclusion: I'm not making a final conclusion until this monitor runs fine for a good while. Initial impression: great monitor for the price, but I would still keep in mind the risk of ordering this. If you do have money to spare, then by all means, join the club. if you are cash strapped then understand that you can be totally screwed over, or feel like a complete winner. In this case. I have won... the battle. The war is yet to be fought.

---

Major thanks to this thread for being #1 in the google search, and finding me a good upgrade from my 24 inch Philips. Will keep in touch if anything does occur.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unpwnntent*
> 
> *Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE (Perfect Pixel)*
> *Vendor:* Green-Sum
> *Shipment to:* Toronto, Ontario, Canada
> *Custom Fees/Duties:* ~$50 (Still worth it. So far...)
> *Order Time:* Wednesday afternoon (Aug 1)
> *Arrival Time:* Tuesday Morning (9:00AM, Aug 7)
> ---
> *Dead Pixels:* None (that I have found)
> *Screen Damage:* None
> *Buzzing Noise:* None
> *Monitor Stand:* THE worst I have had so far. Since I won't be touching the screen much however, and since my table is fairly resilient to movement, it's not a significant problem.
> *Power Brick/Adapter:* LOADUS ac/dc Adapter. A small sticker beneath the large label states it is 110v acceptable. Been running for 40 minutes and it's fairly warm. Nothing crazy yet.
> *Video Card:* EVGA Geforce GTX 460
> ---
> Here are some pictures of the unboxing, in addition to some thoughts.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The delivery guy came at my door and asked me about the monitor. Unsurprisingly he revealed he had about 15 of these in his truck to deliver today. The magic of community forums eh?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Seems standard.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stared at the stand's plate for a little while. The build quality is evidently sub-par, but I have it hooked up now and it's doing its job. Took my a little white to have the monitor firmly attached to the plate because the screws seemed a little unaligned. It's all good now. It was just me.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Popped in some Trine 2 to see how glorious the colours are. It's my first IPS monitor so there's nothing I can base my judgement on, but it does look very nice. Camera overexposes the brightness, but it does look great. Plenty of real-estate and it will really help with my workflow in After Effects, Photoshop and Illustrator.
> ---
> Conclusion: I'm not making a final conclusion until this monitor runs fine for a good while. Initial impression: great monitor for the price, but I would still keep in mind the risk of ordering this. If you do have money to spare, then by all means, join the club. if you are cash strapped then understand that you can be totally screwed over, or feel like a complete winner. In this case. I have won... the battle. The war is yet to be fought.
> ---
> Major thanks to this thread for being #1 in the google search, and finding me a good upgrade from my 24 inch Philips. Will keep in touch if anything does occur.


Good to hear that everything went well. However, 15 in just one day, mann... What area are you in?


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> "If it was being used already and it was damaged, we can't help you."
> 
> Think he means if it was in use and working OK when you got it, then you broke the screen after you had it a while.
> 
> So was the box damaged ?
> Do you think it happened in transit, or when it was being packed in the box at the factory / sellers (so called) visual check ?
> Looks like the screen has had a lot of focused pressure right on where the cracks start (bottom middle).
> 
> He would also have to send the monitor back at his cost, before Paypal return the money to the buyer.


Yeah, the box has a clear dent in it exactly where the puncture is, but the actual damage to the monitor is unnoticeable until it's completely hooked up. Out of the box it looks perfectly fine.

I got bored and threw together a video of it here:


----------



## unpwnntent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Good to hear that everything went well. However, 15 in just one day, mann... What area are you in?


West end of downtown, near the west entrance to the CNE (where Medieval Times is located).


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Yeah, the box has a clear dent in it exactly where the puncture is, but the actual damage to the monitor is unnoticeable until it's completely hooked up. Out of the box it looks perfectly fine.
> I got bored and threw together a video of it here:


That sucks

Good luck bro. This is a rare issue you are facing.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Mine just got cleared from the Customs. I will have to pay 100$
> I will have the monitor tomorrow.


100$?
Is too much,Is it depends for your nation?
How much seller evaluated the monitor?


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Hi,

I just got one of those Catleap 2B extremes which can overclock to 120hz. I can get 110hz stable, but struggle to get 120hz stable. Could anyone share the timings they use for 120hz?

Cheers,

Bo0GeRs


----------



## PabloVanDyk

Here from Brazil, not sure if I´m the first to get one of these over here, which was just custom cleared and should arrive later today or tomorrow.

I will later share my experience for anyone down here who might want to purchase one. I will try to inform all there is to know about this process to Brazil, including lead-time, vendor, taxes, etc.

I sure would have liked to have some information before I plunged into the buy button, but I was aware about some of the risks involved (thanks to this forum) buying something like this from the opposite side of the world...

Hopefully I will come back here with good news...


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> I am running AMD VISION Engine Control Center. I do not see any settings that allow me to adjust refresh rate. Any ideas?


Read the Catleap FAQ on page one.


----------



## laika1

Hey guys im new to the forum and computer gaming so I apologize for noob questions. I'm planning to get new computer with two gtx 670's. Can this monitor support two gtx 670s at the same time? Second question, is everything included in the monitor box to run two cards at the same time or do I need to order extra dvi-d cable from amazon? Third questions is, if two gtx 670 cards do work with this monitor do I need to go into settings to make sure two cards are working together or is it as simple as putting the cards in and reseting the computer? Last question is, will two gtx 670s be enough to run future games such as watch dogs on max/ultra settings at 1400p, from what I understand higher resolution monitors take a lot of gpu power.


----------



## xxlap1xx

Just pulled the trigger on a Q270SE. It's time to ditch my Sammy


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laika1*
> 
> Hey guys im new to the forum and computer gaming so I apologize for noob questions. I'm planning to get new computer with two gtx 670's. Can this monitor support two gtx 670s at the same time? Second question, is everything included in the monitor box to run two cards at the same time or do I need to order extra dvi-d cable from amazon? Third questions is, if two gtx 670 cards do work with this monitor do I need to go into settings to make sure two cards are working together or is it as simple as putting the cards in and reseting the computer? Last question is, will two gtx 670s be enough to run future games such as watch dogs on max/ultra settings at 1400p, from what I understand higher resolution monitors take a lot of gpu power.


I'm pretty sure it'll support two GTX 670's with no problem.

When you run two cards at the same time, that's SLI'ing. That's entirely dependent on whether you have an SLI bridge.

Haven't SLI, so can't answer the third question. I'm pretty sure it's just plugging the two in and then resetting the computer.

Two GTX 670's is plenty. I'm running almost everything on max/ultra settings at 1440p on one.


----------



## Onions

the cards can push this resolution no problem. In nvidia control center enable sli and just plug the monitor in. I didnt have to reboot or anything it just worked. With two 670's you shouldnt have any issues running any/most games on max


----------



## iARDAs

So my monitor is arriving tomorrow. I will just unplug my Acer Gn245 and plug the Yamakasi right?

Do i need to uninstall anything?

DO i need to go to Device Manager after I plug in my Yamakasi?


----------



## laika1

Wht's a SLI BRIDGE? Where is it located? My computer that i am about to order has 3570k cpu and ASUS P8Z77-V LK -- 2x PCI-E 3.0 x16, 4x USB 3.0 motherboard.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> I'm pretty sure it'll support two GTX 670's with no problem.
> When you run two cards at the same time, that's SLI'ing. That's entirely dependent on whether you have an SLI bridge.
> Haven't SLI, so can't answer the third question. I'm pretty sure it's just plugging the two in and then resetting the computer.
> Two GTX 670's is plenty. I'm running almost everything on max/ultra settings at 1440p on one.


LoL you needs to play more games....

There are afew that can push 2 golden gtx 680s into the 80% usage range lol.

But must are lucky to use 50% with both cards downclocked.. but there is always those few..


----------



## iARDAs

Sli bridge will be bundled with your motherboard.

When you install 2 670s to the motherboard, you need to connect them vwith an SLI bridge

Something like this


----------



## xxlap1xx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> Hi,
> I just got one of those Catleap 2B extremes which can overclock to 120hz. I can get 110hz stable, but struggle to get 120hz stable. Could anyone share the timings they use for 120hz?
> Cheers,
> Bo0GeRs


May I ask where did you bought it from??

I couldn't find any on ebay whatsoever.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laika1*
> 
> Wht's a SLI BRIDGE? Where is it located? My computer that i am about to order has 3570k cpu and ASUS P8Z77-V LK -- 2x PCI-E 3.0 x16, 4x USB 3.0 motherboard.


The SLI bridge connects the two graphics cards together. It usually comes with the cards and/or motherboard. Personally I'm not a huge fan of SLI. You will never see as much as 2x the performance as a single card and some games don't support it.
But if you have the cash to spare you might as well go for it.


----------



## b7fLuid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unpwnntent*
> 
> West end of downtown, near the west entrance to the CNE (where Medieval Times is located).


That's funny cause I was talking to the DHL guy and he said pretty much the same thing about seeing tons of these monitors. He delivered mine on July 27th and I'm at Dufferin and Dundas so not too far from ya. These guys in Korea are making a killing just from people in Toronto! lol


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> The SLI bridge connects the two graphics cards together. It usually comes with the cards and/or motherboard. Personally I'm not a huge fan of SLI. You will never see as much as 2x the performance as a single card and some games don't support it.
> But if you have the cash to spare you might as well go for it.


Sli was meh 10 years ago...

Now you atleast get 70% performance of the 2nd card...

And i have not played a game in 3-5 years that did not support SLI..

If you cant hold 60 fps in a game then your not going to have Smooth game play...

There is not a single card on he market that can hold 60fps in all games... But Sli will..


----------



## unpwnntent

Haha, it was probably the same delivery guy then







He even asked where he could get them and I referred him to eBay and this website for more information. Maybe we'll see a new member in a DHL outfit in the near future.

And yes, we're all helping boost South Korea's economy. No wonder the rest of us are in the dumps right now









(Monitor has been running for over 7 hours. Still no problems.)


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> LoL you needs to play more games....
> There are afew that can push 2 golden gtx 680s into the 80% usage range lol.
> But must are lucky to use 50% with both cards downclocked.. but there is always those few..


I play mostly modded Skyrim and Battlefield 3. I think those are pretty graphically intense. I also consider 40+ FPS to be pretty good, so that might be where we might disagree.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> I play mostly modded Skyrim and Battlefield 3. I think those are pretty graphically intense. I also consider 40+ FPS to be pretty good, so that might be where we might disagree.


Yeah to me anything below 60fps starts to get choppy and un playable for me.

Also i read somewhere that if you drop below 60fps lets say 55fps something to do with the Refresh rates..
Makes it where you are only truly seeing 30fps.

I spend hours reading reviews and info's lol so i cant recall where.. but i do think it was somewhere over on Scribbys website


----------



## Relance

@Hokies83
That happens only when you have V-Sync on. If your fps drops below 60 with vsync, it'll push it to 30. Without vsync, it'll just be running at 55 fps, or 56, etc.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Relance*
> 
> @Hokies83
> That happens only when you have V-Sync on. If your fps drops below 60 with vsync, it'll push it to 30. Without vsync, it'll just be running at 55 fps, or 56, etc.


Ah thanks for that.

I have always used Vsync with these panels as it seems to me these IPS panels Screen tear horrid with out it... I do notice however the Catleap was not as bad as my U2711 was.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Yeah to me anything below 60fps starts to get choppy and un playable for me.
> Also i read somewhere that if you drop below 60fps lets say 55fps something to do with the Refresh rates..
> Makes it where you are only truly seeing 30fps.
> I spend hours reading reviews and info's lol so i cant recall where.. but i do think it was somewhere over on Scribbys website


It does get a little bit choppy but it doesn't really bother me. When it starts dipping into the 20's, then it gets annoying. Realistically, you can't really get a stable 60 Hz on every single game on ultra configurations, especially at this kind of resolution, unless you spend a ridiculous amount of money on a multi-GPU configuration, something that I have never found worthwhile to spend on.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> It does get a little bit choppy but it doesn't really bother me. When it starts dipping into the 20's, then it gets annoying. Realistically, you can't really get a stable 60 Hz on every single game on ultra configurations, especially at this kind of resolution, unless you spend a ridiculous amount of money on a multi-GPU configuration, something that I have never found worthwhile to spend on.


I can Confirm that my 680s have never dropped below 60fps in any game lol.


----------



## aamiic

Hi all,

Just wanted to report in that I received by Yamakasi Catleap Q270 from Green Sum today (ordered last Wednesday evening). Holiday in Canada yesterday so who knows if it would've been here even earlier.

First words out of my mouth I can't repeat here.









Looks really really nice. I can't see any dead pixels and i've looked at a full white screen. I don't want to go hunting though.

The stand is disappointing, but we already knew that. It sits too low on my desk for my height.

No issues otherwise.

As a side note, I am currently driving it with a XFX 5770 AMD/Radeon card and it seems to be holding up ok with some of the older games I've tried (Counterstrike Source, World of Warcraft, and even Diablo 3). I'm sure performance will suffer here and there but it's not as terrible as I thought it may be. I will be replacing the card though to be able to play some of the newer games without issue.

Best upgrade to the computer yet.


----------



## muscleking

make sure the dead pixels are not dust. i thought mine had a few then i blowed them right off. lol. turned out to be perfect.

i am driving it with 9800gtx+ and skyrim hit 60fps on medium no problem. good enough for a old machine. now we can look down on people using 1080p. i know i am not going back to anything less than 1440p.

yeah greensum is a good guy. sounds like some guy from a rap.

don't be shy on buying new video card, #1 important thing. still the 5770 is a lot better than my 9800 so you are fine for a while.

7400 posts total now al-right

oh and yeah without vsync sucks. lots of tearing. feel pukey after a while. i rather take a reduced refresh rate then tearing. never really noticed it until i look up " tearing". then start looking at games for defects.


----------



## laika1

Natez28 " The SLI bridge connects the two graphics cards together. It usually comes with the cards and/or motherboard. Personally I'm not a huge fan of SLI. You will never see as much as 2x the performance as a single card and some games don't support it But if you have the cash to spare you might as well go for it."

If i could get away with using one gtx 670 with catleap i would but I was under the assumption that two gtx 670s are needed to play games such as battlefield 3 on ultra/high settings due to 1400 resolution.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laika1*
> 
> Can this monitor support two gtx 670s at the same time?


100% yes.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laika1*
> 
> Natez28 " The SLI bridge connects the two graphics cards together. It usually comes with the cards and/or motherboard. Personally I'm not a huge fan of SLI. You will never see as much as 2x the performance as a single card and some games don't support it But if you have the cash to spare you might as well go for it."
> If i could get away with using one gtx 670 with catleap i would but I was under the assumption that two gtx 670s are needed to play games such as battlefield 3 on ultra/high settings due to 1400 resolution.


If you want smooth game play 60fps your going to need 2.


----------



## laika1

How do you guys know how many frames games is running at? Is there special equipment I have to buy or download a program? Oh and thanks for all the info so far, learning a lot from you guys!


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laika1*
> 
> How do you guys know how many frames games is running at? Is there special equipment I have to buy or download a program? Oh and thanks for all the info so far, learning a lot from you guys!


Msi afterburner or precision x both Jane on screen displays which will tell you frame rate


----------



## Astr627

I just got the White model from BCC. From Korea to my door only takes two days, amazing...... The monitor is simply fantastic. It has perfect panel without dead pixel. Just very little backlight bleed on bottom which doesn't affect normal use. As I remember ACD 27 in our office also has some BLB.... So all in all this is the best monitor I ever had. Hope it can last for a while.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *laika1*
> 
> How do you guys know how many frames games is running at? Is there special equipment I have to buy or download a program? Oh and thanks for all the info so far, learning a lot from you guys!


Here is a Link for Fraps, an FPS counter.


----------



## Gainder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I don't think the hot glue would damage the coil in any way, I have put it on much more sensitive electronics before.


I tried with hot glue, it did something when I tested it without the bezels, but when I mounted it melted.
At the moment I removed the metal cover of the blue pcb, I can't hear any noise coming from the monitor when I sit in front of it.
I hope I won't break anything since I think the cover helped to keep the temperature down.


----------



## RoddimusPrime

Where is the best place to buy one of these and please post links. Thanks.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoddimusPrime*
> 
> Where is the best place to buy one of these and please post links. Thanks.


Ebay, but we can't post Ebay links, since it's against the TOS. If you do a search, you'll get plenty of results.


----------



## shimpchip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Can anyone explain to me what the buttons on the bottom right are? They have no labels, besides the brightness adjuster and the button to turn the monitor on/off.


I just received this monitor, Catleap 2703, today as well. According to the manual found on the website, the other buttons do nothing.


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> So my monitor is arriving tomorrow. I will just unplug my Acer Gn245 and plug the Yamakasi right?
> 
> Do i need to uninstall anything?
> 
> DO i need to go to Device Manager after I plug in my Yamakasi?


No need to goto Device Manager
Just turn off Computer unplug Acre Monitor, Change Cables and plug in new screen


----------



## Prox

Can anyone comment on how long it takes for green-sum to ship these things? Ordered one on Monday and have not heard a thing from him.


----------



## wkstar

Sometimes they take a few orders to the shipper on Thursday

Maybe when you ordered was Night time over there and it has now been One whole day
Relax


----------



## FishHeadswg

Yep, the time zone difference is a bit of a hassle.

I've been trying to talk to this pallascopi guy and have gotten 2 responses in 4 days. He tends to message me when I'm asleep which makes this whole exchange a massive pain.

I just want a new monitor so I can stop using my crappy TV.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RoddimusPrime*
> 
> Where is the best place to buy one of these and please post links. Thanks.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Ebay, but we can't post Ebay links, since it's against the TOS. If you do a search, you'll get plenty of results.


He was asking about the overclocking 2B model


----------



## Kantastic

Hey guys, just wondering if anybody had any sources for a cheap active mini displayport to dual-link DVI adapters that would work with this monitor? I found an eBay link for one that was proven to work with Catleaps for under $60, but it was sold out, relisted, and sold out again.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kantastic*
> 
> Hey guys, just wondering if anybody had any sources for a cheap active mini displayport to dual-link DVI adapters that would work with this monitor? I found an eBay link for one that was proven to work with Catleaps for under $60, but it was sold out, relisted, and sold out again.


Search for this one on Ebay
Dell BIZLINK DisplayPort to DVI Dual Link Adapter USB Powered XT625 / CN-0XT625 there about 35$
But there full sized display port not mini.


----------



## Vaengence

I have just purchased one from bigclothcraft which was received quite quickly and as far as I can tell has no dead pixels and looks brilliant - for about 2 minutes before it fades to black. Turning it off and on again will bring the picture back up and it will last anywhere from 3 seconds (the shortest time) to about 3 minutes at longest and it will just fade to black again.

I have seen a couple of posts have that issue and as far as I can tell people seem to think it is an issue with the power brick, but I have no clue myself. Have sent a message to BCC yesterday and awaiting a response.


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vaengence*
> 
> I have just purchased one from bigclothcraft which was received quite quickly and as far as I can tell has no dead pixels and looks brilliant - for about 2 minutes before it fades to black. Turning it off and on again will bring the picture back up and it will last anywhere from 3 seconds (the shortest time) to about 3 minutes at longest and it will just fade to black again.
> I have seen a couple of posts have that issue and as far as I can tell people seem to think it is an issue with the power brick, but I have no clue myself. Have sent a message to BCC yesterday and awaiting a response.


Adjust the time in the power options of Control Panel


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> FedEx currently under investigation.
> Please wait a little bit.
> Please send arrived the packaging of the product photos (several sheets)
> External shocks photos and so on ...
> 
> - pallascospi


Looks like Fedex was at fault here, I'm just worried about how long Fedex will take to fess up if at all.

I'm guessing this guy is as frustrated as I am and trying to get Fedex to cough up.

Not sure what he means by "external shocks photos", though.


----------



## Vaengence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Adjust the time in the power options of Control Panel


The time of what? Sorry that isn't making a lot of sense to me...


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vaengence*
> 
> The time of what? Sorry that isn't making a lot of sense to me...


I think he's suggesting that you have your power options set to turn off the display after a certain amount of time.


----------



## Vaengence

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> I think he's suggesting that you have your power options set to turn off the display after a certain amount of time.


If that is the case then no, it is not that kind of fading out. It does a kind of cascading pixel to black from the top of the screen to the bottom over a short frame of time. It is more like the pixels are going black in a fast waterfall action. After it does this the backlight stays on, just there is no picture and the light stays solid green. It will also do this regardless of what I am doing on the computer - it is definitely not going to sleep.


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Based on this response it sure doesn't sound like this guy is from the US as he claims. Either that or he dropped of of school in the third grade to sell things on eBay.


I don't think he ever claimed to be from the US, just that he was selling only to the US.


----------



## FishHeadswg

I'm starting to wonder if I should just buy another monitor while I wait for this Fedex investigation to be resolved.

Something tells me it could take a couple weeks and I kinda need a monitor now.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> FedEx currently under investigation.
> Please wait a little bit.
> Please send arrived the packaging of the product photos (several sheets)
> External shocks photos and so on ...
> 
> - pallascospi


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Looks like Fedex was at fault here, I'm just worried about how long Fedex will take to fess up if at all.
> I'm guessing this guy is as frustrated as I am and trying to get Fedex to cough up.
> Not sure what he means by "external shocks photos", though.


He is going to need photos of the packaging / box an close ups of any damage.

"External shocks photo and so on..." lol I don't know, but a guess would be pictures of the monitor on and off and with close ups of the damage focal point on and off.


----------



## aamiic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> i am driving it with 9800gtx+ and skyrim hit 60fps on medium no problem. good enough for a old machine. now we can look down on people using 1080p. i know i am not going back to anything less than 1440p.
> don't be shy on buying new video card, #1 important thing. still the 5770 is a lot better than my 9800 so you are fine for a while.


Your post was a bit disjointed but I think I got the jist of it.

I think video card replacement is critical really. You're not doing yourself any justice playing at low settings on a larger, higher def. monitor. Picked up a EVGA 670 tonight. It's a huge improvement over what I was doing previously.


----------



## weaveR

I got the hdmi version of the catleap and I cant get it to go past 60 hertz...


----------



## iARDAs

Just got my monitor now.

Bought it from greensum

No dead pixels or stuck pixels

NO backlight bleeding so far as far as I can see

The stand is excellent. It doesnt tilt or anything.Maybe it is due to my desk being sturdy. The stand does move a bit when you move it but it is nothing to worry about at all

No physical damage or scratches

I honestly got myself a Apple Thunderbolt quality screen.

I hope it goes on like this.


----------



## loocas

Hi guys, I'm something of a layman on anything deeper than a simple gaming pc build so I'm hoping someone can help me here.

I just ordered a Catleap with the intention to use for my 15" Macbook Pro (2010), only to find to my horror after buying it that there may not be any great way to achieve this. I'm having a hard time finding someone the in same exact position posting results. I'm told the signal required would need the Dual Link DVI cable but I equally hear people reporting countless problems with said cable, and further, that my MBP might not even be able to supply the required GPU power to use the screen.

Desperately looking for answers, please help.

_MBP Specs:_

2.4 GHz Dual Core i5
8GB RAM
OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion
GPU: NVIDIA GT 330M 256MB


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vaengence*
> 
> I have just purchased one from bigclothcraft which was received quite quickly and as far as I can tell has no dead pixels and looks brilliant - for about 2 minutes before it fades to black. Turning it off and on again will bring the picture back up and it will last anywhere from 3 seconds (the shortest time) to about 3 minutes at longest and it will just fade to black again.
> I have seen a couple of posts have that issue and as far as I can tell people seem to think it is an issue with the power brick, but I have no clue myself. Have sent a message to BCC yesterday and awaiting a response.


When the display fades to black, is the green (or blue) power LED still on, or is it flashing? If it's still on, that might indicate a problem with the DVI cable...that's a problem that I had a while back. A new DVI cable from Monoprice solved the issue.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loocas*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm something of a layman on anything deeper than a simple gaming pc build so I'm hoping someone can help me here.
> I just ordered a Catleap with the intention to use for my 15" Macbook Pro (2010), only to find to my horror after buying it that there may not be any great way to achieve this. I'm having a hard time finding someone the in same exact position posting results. I'm told the signal required would need the Dual Link DVI cable but I equally hear people reporting countless problems with said cable, and further, that my MBP might not even be able to supply the required GPU power to use the screen.
> Desperately looking for answers, please help.
> _MBP Specs:_
> 2.4 GHz Dual Core i5
> 8GB RAM
> OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion
> GPU: NVIDIA GT 330M 256MB


Is that a laptop? If so, there's a high chance that it won't be able to support the Catleap monitor, unless you bought the multi-port variant.


----------



## loocas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> When the display fades to black, is the green (or blue) power LED still on, or is it flashing? If it's still on, that might indicate a problem with the DVI cable...that's a problem that I had a while back. A new DVI cable from Monoprice solved the issue.
> Is that a laptop? If so, there's a high chance that it won't be able to support the Catleap monitor, unless you bought the multi-port variant.


That's what I feared. I'm a total dunce when it comes to display ports, what does the multi-port have and where should I look out for it on the buyer page? I purchased this one here.

I feel like I should be apologising for tarnishing these pages with such luddite questions









EDIT:

Ok, I feel more ignorant than usual now, but I think I've worked it out. Some users using 2009 MBPs with the Dual-Link DVI adapter seem to have it working. I'll report back once I get the equipment.


----------



## iARDAs

Amazing monitor. It really is amazing.

Here are few pics.


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Amazing monitor. It really is amazing.
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/994431/


Looks like the HDMI version gets a .5 faster refresh rate


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Just got my monitor now.
> 
> Bought it from greensum
> 
> No dead pixels or stuck pixels
> 
> NO backlight bleeding so far as far as I can see
> 
> The stand is excellent. It doesnt tilt or anything.Maybe it is due to my desk being sturdy. The stand does move a bit when you move it but it is nothing to worry about at all
> 
> No physical damage or scratches
> 
> I honestly got myself a Apple Thunderbolt quality screen.
> 
> I hope it goes on like this.


It was about time!..ten days to ship


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Looks like the HDMI version gets a .5 faster refresh rate


Youuu bastardosssss









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> It was about time!..ten days to ship


Actually 4 days to ship to Turkey and 3 days in Customs 1 day to come to my house and 2 days of weekend.

Turkish Customs are slow.

Well worth the wait though.


----------



## iARDAs

Does anyone know if I take an SS in steam would it be 1440p or 1080p?


----------



## Vaengence

Quote:


> When the display fades to black, is the green (or blue) power LED still on, or is it flashing? If it's still on, that might indicate a problem with the DVI cable...that's a problem that I had a while back. A new DVI cable from Monoprice solved the issue.


It could be however my older monitor has the same Dual DVI port so in order to make sure I kept the same power cableand DVI cable and have been using it with my older monitor with no issues so far. Incidentally the green light does stay solid on.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Does anyone know if I take an SS in steam would it be 1440p or 1080p?


It would automatically be whatever resolution you are playing the game at.


----------



## curlyp

My monitors are on the delivery truck!









Edited: Monitors have arrived! I will post pictures later.


----------



## knightmetro

Shipped! Woot.

It's been a gateway drug though. Already ordered a new motherboard and looking at new cases.

I need cheaper hobbies.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> It would automatically be whatever resolution you are playing the game at.


thank you for the info


----------



## Bo0GeRs

I had to get some timings from another site, but I'm in BF3 heaven.

Cheers,
Bo0Gers


----------



## joeh1974

My HD7950 idles in the 50s because I'm running dual-displays, and I guess neither ATI nor Nvidia cards can downclock when running more than one display. I was thinking about adding a cheapo secondary card just to run the secondary monitor display. Newegg has a HD5450 which runs fanless, apparently supports up to 2560x1600, and has a DVI-D port on it. Anyone think I would have any issues running my primary off the HD7950, and the secondary off the HD5450?


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> My HD7950 idles in the 50s because I'm running dual-displays, and I guess neither ATI nor Nvidia cards can downclock when running more than one display. I was thinking about adding a cheapo secondary card just to run the secondary monitor display. Newegg has a HD5450 which runs fanless, apparently supports up to 2560x1600, and has a DVI-D port on it. Anyone think I would have any issues running my primary off the HD7950, and the secondary off the HD5450?


Maybe you enable manual fan control, or however you control the fan speed on ur 7950. Can't speak for the ATI cards but my 680 downclocks & runs 38-40° idle on a surround setup.

50 is kinda high idle temps, how is ur ambient temp or how is ur air flow in ur case?


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Maybe you enable manual fan control, or however you control the fan speed on ur 7950. Can't speak for the ATI cards but my 680 downclocks & runs 38-40° idle on a surround setup.
> 50 is kinda high idle temps, how is ur ambient temp or how is ur air flow in ur case?


The card idles at only 40C when the other monitor is turned off. I've researched this for the past couple of days, and apparently both Nvidia and ATI run their cards at full memory clocks in order to prevent flickering and tearing on the second monitor. Hence the high idle clocks.

To answer your question though, I run 78F ambient, and the card is in an Antec 1200 case. 3 front 120mm intake, 1 side 120mm intake, 2 rear 120mm exhaust, and a 200mm exhaust on top. Wind tunnel in there.


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *joeh1974*
> 
> The card idles at only 40C when the other monitor is turned off. I've researched this for the past couple of days, and apparently both Nvidia and ATI run their cards at full memory clocks in order to prevent flickering and tearing on the second monitor. Hence the high idle clocks.
> To answer your question though, I run 78F ambient, and the card is in an Antec 1200 case. 3 front 120mm intake, 1 side 120mm intake, 2 rear 120mm exhaust, and a 200mm exhaust on top. Wind tunnel in there.


Yea that's pretty good airflow setup







, ur ambient is alot cooler than mine, guess those cards just run a lil hotter. Can't say it's the same for me cause I've noticed my card downclocks to around 324 MHz when I'm jus browsing the net, my base is 1050-sumthing if I remember correctly. I wouldn't waste $ on a 2nd vid card tho just to get better idle temps, maybe you should look @ an aftermarket cooling solution for ur current card. The card is sufficient for dual monitors after all, what model 7950 is it btw?

Check this thread. Gonna being doing this mod by weekend hopefully


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> Yea that's pretty good airflow setup
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , ur ambient is alot cooler than mine, guess those cards just run a lil hotter. Can't say it's the same for me cause I've noticed my card downclocks to around 924 MHz when I'm jus browsing the net, my base is 1050-sumthing if I remember correctly. I wouldn't waste $ on a 2nd vid card tho just to get better idle temps, maybe you should look @ an aftermarket cooling solution for ur current card. The card is sufficient for dual monitors after all, what model 7950 is it btw?
> Check this thread. Gonna being doing this mod by weekend hopefully


MSI Twin Frozr HD7950. It's not just idle though. With both monitors running, the card hits around 77C under full load. With one monitor running, the card hits 70-71C. The other thing is cost. I have to use an active-DP to DVI converter to transmit the signal from the card to the second monitor. It was $100 at Amazon + the cost of the aftermarket cooler compared to $20 after rebate for the HD 5450. I'm thinking that two cards may be the smarter move temp wise as well as money wise.


----------



## Scorpion49

Well I'm getting really, really annoyed now. Since I bought mine and 5 days later the seller (dream-seller) told me due to the Korean holiday they wouldn't ship mine until the 7th, I said OK. Well, now its the 9th in Korea and I've sent him 2 messages, one on monday and one yesterday with no response. Whats my best option? Sit here and hope my $325 didn't disappear into thin air? 3 weeks have gone by since I ordered it.


----------



## joeh1974

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Well I'm getting really, really annoyed now. Since I bought mine and 5 days later the seller (dream-seller) told me due to the Korean holiday they wouldn't ship mine until the 7th, I said OK. Well, now its the 9th in Korea and I've sent him 2 messages, one on monday and one yesterday with no response. Whats my best option? Sit here and hope my $325 didn't disappear into thin air? 3 weeks have gone by since I ordered it.


3 weeks?? I'd open a dispute with Paypal and get a refund on the money. Order from somebody else. I had my Shimian from red-cap in hand 48 hours after the order was placed.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> 
> I had to get some timings from another site, but I'm in BF3 heaven.
> Cheers,
> Bo0Gers


Hey Boogers what timings did you use and what kind of framerate do you get in BF3 with those settings?


----------



## aamiic

So where does one get a driver for the Q270 monitor? Sounds like that's the key to getting playing with overclocking and I can't seem to find it anywhere. You search for OVERCLOCK DRIVER CATLEAP and it's not super useful having this site called OVERCLOCK.NET lol.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aamiic*
> 
> So where does one get a driver for the Q270 monitor? Sounds like that's the key to getting playing with overclocking and I can't seem to find it anywhere. You search for OVERCLOCK DRIVER CATLEAP and it's not super useful having this site called OVERCLOCK.NET lol.










Loved it!


----------



## ghost185

I just got my Catleap today, and it doesn't want to turn on. I have it plugged into my GTX 590 and there's no light on the power brick (I'm using a regular monitor power cord to the brick) or on the monitor. Any ideas? Thanks.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghost185*
> 
> I just got my Catleap today, and it doesn't want to turn on. I have it plugged into my GTX 590 and there's no light on the power brick (I'm using a regular monitor power cord to the brick) or on the monitor. Any ideas? Thanks.


No light on power brick, sounds like the brick is the problem.


----------



## ghost185

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> No light on power brick, sounds like the brick is the problem.


That's what I thought. I tested the cord going into the power supply and it reads at 110v, so it must be the brick.

What do you recommend? I found the recommended replacement brick on eBay, should I get that or email they guy I bought it from off eBay?

EDIT: I just got a replacement off eBay, so I'll see if that works. I'll update if it does.


----------



## vtsimple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *loocas*
> 
> That's what I feared. I'm a total dunce when it comes to display ports, what does the multi-port have and where should I look out for it on the buyer page? I purchased this one here.
> I feel like I should be apologising for tarnishing these pages with such luddite questions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Ok, I feel more ignorant than usual now, but I think I've worked it out. Some users using 2009 MBPs with the Dual-Link DVI adapter seem to have it working. I'll report back once I get the equipment.


Yeah looking forward to what results you get! I'm mainly hooking it up to my rig but it'd be nice to hook my up my 2010 MBP also with that adapter.


----------



## curlyp

Well, I received my monitors this morning! I just finished unpacking and testing all 3. All I can say is OMG!!! They are beautiful.

First, Green-sum packaged them really well. No dents, dings, rips on my boxes. All the monitors came with everything that was mentioned on the eBay auction. I definitely recommend him and these monitors to those who are unsure if you should purchase or not.

Now, onto the monitors:

I tested all the monitors and there are NO DEAD PIXELS! The monitors have very minimal backlight bleeding, but it is not a problem. The stand is not the greatest (it wobbles). However, I won't be using it long, as I will attach them to my triple mount.

Right now, I am only using as my current graphics card does not have the power to support all 3. I have one more MSI Lightning 7970 cards incoming tomorrow. Once I put on the water block, I will be bridge both card and install into new PC (which the project will finally be complete!).

I will post pictures of all the monitors up and running later this week. As for now, here are the pictures of un-boxing and testing them.


----------



## shimpchip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghost185*
> 
> I just got my Catleap today, and it doesn't want to turn on. I have it plugged into my GTX 590 and there's no light on the power brick (I'm using a regular monitor power cord to the brick) or on the monitor. Any ideas? Thanks.


I had that problem before, my power cable was fully inserted into the monitor but at the wrong rotation. I fixed it by rotating it 180 degrees and re-inserting it. Not sure if it will help you but just throwing it out there.


----------



## sceloglaux

I unpacked my Catleap Q270 just a few minutes ago and it seems to have a blinking red light and not turn on whatever I do. I tried the included power cable with Korean to USA adapter initially, and then a spare cable to the power brick that I had lying around. There doesn't seem to be any information about the blinking red condition in the FAQ at the beginning of this this thread, so I'm sort of at a loss at what to do.

Sending this monitor back seems kinda scary. Any advice would be super great.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Well, I received my monitors this morning! I just finished unpacking and testing all 3. All I can say is OMG!!! They are beautiful.
> First, Green-sum packaged them really well. No dents, dings, rips on my boxes. All the monitors came with everything that was mentioned on the eBay auction. I definitely recommend him and these monitors to those who are unsure if you should purchase or not.
> Now, onto the monitors:
> I tested all the monitors and there are NO DEAD PIXELS! The monitors have very minimal backlight bleeding, but it is not a problem. The stand is not the greatest (it wobbles). However, I won't be using it long, as I will attach them to my triple mount.
> Right now, I am only using as my current graphics card does not have the power to support all 3. I have one more MSI Lightning 7970 cards incoming tomorrow. Once I put on the water block, I will be bridge both card and install into new PC (which the project will finally be complete!).
> I will post pictures of all the monitors up and running later this week. As for now, here are the pictures of un-boxing and testing them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I was hoping for a finale with three in surround glam shot. hehe...

Nice to see that luck has been on your side. Three in good cond. Let's hope that my 2nd monitor will have the same result. Just bought another Q270 from BCC.


----------



## fsrick

Help please!!!!

I have use the Q270 for about a week, but the screen has problem now. It gives multi-color stripes over the whole screen.
By unpluging the DVI cable multiple times can fix the problem sometimes, but it happens very often now when the screen goes back on from sleep mode.

I do not think it is reasonable to ship the screen back to Korea and ask for a fix. Do you guys have a similar problem like this before? Is there any easy fix for it?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fsrick*
> 
> Help please!!!!
> I have use the Q270 for about a week, but the screen has problem now. It gives multi-color stripes over the whole screen.
> By unpluging the DVI cable multiple times can fix the problem sometimes, but it happens very often now when the screen goes back on from sleep mode.
> I do not think it is reasonable to ship the screen back to Korea and ask for a fix. Do you guys have a similar problem like this before? Is there any easy fix for it?


Try a new DVI cable one that comes with these panels is as cheap as it gets.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Try a new DVI cable one that comes with these panels is as cheap as it gets.


Yep, thats definitely a bad DVI cable, check for bent pins as well.


----------



## FishHeadswg

Well, I ordered a second Q270 while waiting for the FedEx claim report on the first. I also ordered it from the same dude since in 99.9% sure it was FedEx's fault and not his. I'll also be at the door to inspect the box this time around.

I really hope this doesn't come back to bite me..... again.


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> Hey Boogers what timings did you use and what kind of framerate do you get in BF3 with those settings?



These are my timings for 120Hz.

I get usually get 80-110 frames per second at those settings with my setup. I am thinking of adding another 680 as SLi, however waiting to seeing if Nvidia nerf their WHQL drivers for 120hz @ 1440p before buying another 680. I realise going SLi will limit me to 100hz, but I figure a consistent 100+ fps at 100hz is better than 80-110 at 120hz.

If Nvidia do nerf their drivers it means I have to go AMD







and used the hacked drivers.

Cheers,

Bo0GeRs


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Well, I received my monitors this morning! I just finished unpacking and testing all 3. All I can say is OMG!!! They are beautiful.
> First, Green-sum packaged them really well. No dents, dings, rips on my boxes. All the monitors came with everything that was mentioned on the eBay auction. I definitely recommend him and these monitors to those who are unsure if you should purchase or not.
> Now, onto the monitors:
> I tested all the monitors and there are NO DEAD PIXELS! The monitors have very minimal backlight bleeding, but it is not a problem. The stand is not the greatest (it wobbles). However, I won't be using it long, as I will attach them to my triple mount.
> Right now, I am only using as my current graphics card does not have the power to support all 3. I have one more MSI Lightning 7970 cards incoming tomorrow. Once I put on the water block, I will be bridge both card and install into new PC (which the project will finally be complete!).
> I will post pictures of all the monitors up and running later this week. As for now, here are the pictures of un-boxing and testing them.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ]


Yea man where's all 3 together!


----------



## jmarsiglio

Worth it to Rma mine that has trouble waking up from sleep mode? It sometimes restarts or resets after logging in or turning on or waking up from sleep. Other than that it's perfect, I just dont want it to get worse. Any suggestions?


----------



## edo101

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Worth it to Rma mine that has trouble waking up from sleep mode? It sometimes restarts or resets after logging in or turning on or waking up from sleep. Other than that it's perfect, I just dont want it to get worse. Any suggestions?


email seller describing problem and see if he'll take it back. If he will then send it back.

Now the only downside to this would be to get a new screen with dead pixels or worse backlight bleed


----------



## edo101

Since these a similar panels to U2711 and Apple Cinema displays, do these have a WIDE GAMUT support?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jmarsiglio*
> 
> Worth it to Rma mine that has trouble waking up from sleep mode? It sometimes restarts or resets after logging in or turning on or waking up from sleep. Other than that it's perfect, I just dont want it to get worse. Any suggestions?


Could be the DVI cable.


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> If Nvidia do nerf their drivers it means I have to go AMD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and used the hacked drivers.s


Where do you get the hacked AMD drivers from do they allow you to specify custom refresh rates like the nvidia drivers do?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Check the first post, I have edited the nVidia and AMD Ocing guides back in after scribby removed them.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Check the first post, I have edited the nVidia and AMD Ocing guides back in after scribby removed them.


It's nuts. Somebody went through a lot of effort to make those guides, they must have had a reason. Then numerous posters say you don't need to follow the guides, just set a custom resolution via desktop.

Still, it's probably a moot point at this stage since I'd imagine very few 2Bs are in the wild. I bought mine used from a member who changes his setup fairly often and used the long form Nvidia guide, worked like a charm.

Probably just confusing guys who are buying Catleaps and read that they can be overclocked.


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Well I got my Catleap 2B 2 weeks ago and I have been loving it since.

The initial post does have the linked to the hacked AMD drivers you need to use to get over 80hz if you have a Catleap 2B.

Cheers,

Bo0GeRs









This is Overclock.net isn't it? I would overclock my Vesa mount if someone could show me how.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Right, but I just figured anybody who knew of that deal would have access to the information to get the monitor to 120Hz.


----------



## General123

I am very interested in these monitors, 300 bucks for a 1440p? Is it worth getting one that is "Pixel Perfect" or should I just try my luck on a regular one? Thank you.


----------



## Awieos

How this is better than achieva monitor?


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General123*
> 
> I am very interested in these monitors, 300 bucks for a 1440p? Is it worth getting one that is "Pixel Perfect" or should I just try my luck on a regular one? Thank you.


Just go for the regular One
For some people paying $40.oo --> 120.oo extra gives them peace of mind
But then they take out magnifying glasses & use 5 different pixel checking websites
Then they turn the brightness all the way up & complain about light bleed

If you are one of these people, Please got Dell.com
They will only charge you about $1100.oo But you will feel better since you spent more money


----------



## General123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> Just go for the regular One
> For some people paying $40.oo --> 120.oo extra gives them peace of mind
> But then they take out magnifying glasses & use 5 different pixel checking websites
> Then they turn the brightness all the way up & complain about light bleed
> If you are one of these people, Please got Dell.com
> They will only charge you about $1100.oo But you will feel better since you spent more money


Thanks for the advice


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I have 2 stuck red pixels and I have to look for them to even notice them, thankfully both are off to the edge. I know everybody wants a perfect monitor, and if I had a cluster right in the center I'd feel differently, but it's not the end of the world for me.


----------



## jmarsiglio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *edo101*
> 
> email seller describing problem and see if he'll take it back. If he will then send it back.
> Now the only downside to this would be to get a new screen with dead pixels or worse backlight bleed


He offered, but that is the problem. It will take weeks for it to come back not to mention the possibility of a worse monitor... can't decide :S
Quote:


> Could be the DVI cable.


No, already tried another one.


----------



## Havolice

hi been reading this thread for 2 days now

and i wanted to order 1 -3 of these monitors in the near future cause i realy realy hate the dells anti glare coating and the horrid input lag.

now my question is how do i calculate import cost *tax processing at boarder the whole shabang* for the netherlands i see mixed report.
as stated in the faq says 35-42 euro but on our tax site it says products up to 430 are free of import tax.

im realy realy confused as i have never imported anything in my life so be gentle ^^.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> hi been reading this thread for 2 days now
> and i wanted to order 1 -3 of these monitors in the near future cause i realy realy hate the dells anti glare coating and the horrid input lag.
> now my question is how do i calculate import cost *tax processing at boarder the whole shabang* for the netherlands i see mixed report.
> as stated in the faq says 35-42 euro but on our tax site it says products up to 430 are free of import tax.
> im realy realy confused as i have never imported anything in my life so be gentle ^^.


Order from Green Sum tell him to put the vaule on it at like 20 usd.


----------



## laika1

Quick question guys. I just ordered catleap and got email back asking how much to mark as a gift? what amount should I tell him to mark it as? Thanks!


----------



## Scorpion49

Okay so I have an update about dream-seller. He contacted me today and said he was very sorry for the delay, he was on vacation. He offered to refund me some money for my trouble so it seems like I'm an isolated case. Anyways, he says it will ship tomorrow as they were testing it today. So a little more patience and I should have my white one.


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Check the first post, I have edited the nVidia and AMD Ocing guides back in after scribby removed them.


Thanks I managed to get 87.766 hertz before getting speckles.


----------



## Havolice

also another question

did you guys take pixel perfect packs or just normal


----------



## aamiic

67hz on my Catleap (just tried the NVIDIA customer resolution setup).


----------



## iARDAs

How do you guys are cleaning this panel?

Its my first IPS panel so i want to be extra careful.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> How do you guys are cleaning this panel?
> 
> Its my first IPS panel so i want to be extra careful.


I just took a soft cloth and some eyeglass cleaner I had sitting around. Worked fine for me.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> I just took a soft cloth and some eyeglass cleaner I had sitting around. Worked fine for me.


Will try

Thank you.


----------



## keiths

Ran across a controller board that looks interesting, thoughts?

NT09S Dual DVI, QHD LCD controller: http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/sub_02_1.asp#nt09s

Supported Resolution: QHD(2560X1440)
Input Interface: TMDS(Dual Link DVI)
Output Interface: 2Ch LVDS(8bits)

Another one: "Purpose built controller, for display system designers working with 2560 resolution Samsung and LG panels"
http://www.digitalview.com/products/dvi-2560-lcd-controller


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> How do you guys are cleaning this panel?
> 
> Its my first IPS panel so i want to be extra careful.


Distilled water and cloth
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *General123*
> 
> I am very interested in these monitors, 300 bucks for a 1440p? Is it worth getting one that is "Pixel Perfect" or should I just try my luck on a regular one? Thank you.


quote name="Havolice" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/7480#post_17904677"]also another question
did you guys take pixel perfect packs or just normal[/quote]

Get a regular one. People who have paid the premium for perfect pixel end up getting dead pixels. It's a gimmick.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Awieos*
> 
> How this is better than achieva monitor?


It's not any better. They're about the same. The only difference I can see is that more people own the Yamakasi so you can get more help that way. Other than that, it's entirely dependent on you.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Ran across a controller board that looks interesting, thoughts?
> NT09S Dual DVI, QHD LCD controller: http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/sub_02_1.asp#nt09s
> Supported Resolution: QHD(2560X1440)
> Input Interface: TMDS(Dual Link DVI)
> Output Interface: 2Ch LVDS(8bits)
> Another one: "Purpose built controller, for display system designers working with 2560 resolution Samsung and LG panels"
> http://www.digitalview.com/products/dvi-2560-lcd-controller


NT09S looks like it might work in a 2B (other models use a different cable to panel PCB), but one of the cables (to panel PCB) has more pins/wires on the Catleap.


----------



## Twitch18

I just posted the following in another thread but thought it might be useful to post it here as well....

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twitch18*
> I bought my catleap multi in april and it is awesome.. but a couple of weeks ago it started having problems. Nothing would happen when I started my pc (monitor stayed on standby/power saving mode) and the monitor stopped responding to all buttons. However, when I unplugged the power cord and waited a couple of minutes it would work again. So, I contacted the ebay seller and described the problem I was having. He then forwarded my problem to the manufacturer who said it might be the adaptor. The seller shipped me a new one, with express shipping, for free and now the monitor is working again.
> 
> I should add that if the problem was with the monitor I would be responsible for shipping costs.
> 
> I bought my monitor from green-sum and highly recommend them... they also offer a 3 year warranty now for $50 ..
> 
> Links:
> green-sum ebay store: (direct link removed)


----------



## ziofranco

Today with DCR OFF the screen is total black for every imput
If I set DCR ON I can see the image on the monitor...somebody have same strange problem?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Today with DCR OFF the screen is total black for every imput
> If I set DCR ON I can see the image on the monitor...somebody have same strange problem?


What is DCR ? Scaler ?


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> What is DCR ? Scaler ?


Dynamic Contrast Ratio
Now I initialize the monitor and everything back to normal


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Thanks I managed to get 87.766 hertz before getting speckles.


Weaver if you have a 2B, you should be able to hit 100hz at least. It is usually a matter of playing around with the timings.

Cheers,

Bo0GeRs


----------



## londonfire93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Ran across a controller board that looks interesting, thoughts?
> NT09S Dual DVI, QHD LCD controller: http://www.icsco.kr/what_we_serve/sub_02_1.asp#nt09s
> Supported Resolution: QHD(2560X1440)
> Input Interface: TMDS(Dual Link DVI)
> Output Interface: 2Ch LVDS(8bits)
> Another one: "Purpose built controller, for display system designers working with 2560 resolution Samsung and LG panels"
> http://www.digitalview.com/products/dvi-2560-lcd-controller


can you buy these parts i need some replacements


----------



## Citra

Is the stand alright if you don't adjust your monitor often?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Citra*
> 
> Is the stand alright if you don't adjust your monitor often?


The stand is usable if you have a solid table. I have been using it for about 4 months and had no problems, having said that, it is wobbly if you touch it or adjust brightness.


----------



## BeerPowered

So I keep seeing the term "catleap" thrown around when discussing 2560*1440.. Well I finally got curious enough to google it, and saw ebay, then came across this thread. I am astounded at how cheap they are. Cheap enough that maybe 7680x1440 isn't so expensive after all.

Now I have a Dell U2711 and I love it. I absolutely love the AG Coating on it, and I especially hate glossy coatings like Apple Cinema Displays have.

So my question for anyone who has a catleap and also has or had the Dell U2711: If I flank my u2711 with catleap monitors is the picture quality difference noticeable.
Also what kind of coating does the catleap use?


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> So I keep seeing the term "catleap" thrown around when discussing 2560*1440.. Well I finally got curious enough to google it, and saw ebay, then came across this thread. I am astounded at how cheap they are. Cheap enough that maybe 7680x1440 isn't so expensive after all.
> Now I have a Dell U2711 and I love it. I absolutely love the AG Coating on it, and I especially hate glossy coatings like Apple Cinema Displays have.
> So my question for anyone who has a catleap and also has or had the Dell U2711: If I flank my u2711 with catleap monitors is the picture quality difference noticeable.
> Also what kind of coating does the catleap use?


catleap are completely glossy

some say they gotten a matte coated one but its realy realy rare.

i also got the 2711 but unlike you i utterly hate the awefull ag coating on it white just isnt white on it and colors get pixelated cause of the coating >< thats why i want to try 1 catleap and if its nice prolly 3 in surround mode


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> So I keep seeing the term "catleap" thrown around when discussing 2560*1440.. Well I finally got curious enough to google it, and saw ebay, then came across this thread. I am astounded at how cheap they are. Cheap enough that maybe 7680x1440 isn't so expensive after all.
> Now I have a Dell U2711 and I love it. I absolutely love the AG Coating on it, and I especially hate glossy coatings like Apple Cinema Displays have.
> So my question for anyone who has a catleap and also has or had the Dell U2711: If I flank my u2711 with catleap monitors is the picture quality difference noticeable.
> Also what kind of coating does the catleap use?


Catleap is glossy. The Apple displays have a glass panel that is even more reflective. I believe the Dell is a true 10-bit monitor where as the Catleap is an 8-bit with dithering. The colors will probably look more vibrant on the Dell.


----------



## vtsimple

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aamiic*
> 
> 67hz on my Catleap (just tried the NVIDIA customer resolution setup).


I just got my catleap Q270 SE today and manage to only overclock it to 64hz with the nvidia custom resolution. This monitor is so beautiful for only $300 and I am lucky that there has not been any problems yet. No dead pixels (did not go with pixel perfect) that I can find and only a little bleed, cannot really tell and doesn't bother me. Would buy more in the future.

EDIT:

The stand is horrible and wobbly. I am thinking about getting the monoprice one that I saw someone post, anybody have any other recommendations for stands/mounts?

Thanks!!


----------



## BeerPowered

Well that is too bad. Glossy is so reflective that its burns my eyes. Deal breaker for me.


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> Well that is too bad. Glossy is so reflective that its burns my eyes. Deal breaker for me.


yes in some envirements out of my control i whould hate glossy to
i got a xps laptop with a 120hz glossy display and its ok indoors but omg dont get the sun in it or wel it burns it burns it burns effect.

god i wish there where good big crt's left in this world that dont strain the hell out of my eyes


----------



## Citra

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> The stand is usable if you have a solid table. I have been using it for about 4 months and had no problems, having said that, it is wobbly if you touch it or adjust brightness.


I see, thanks.


----------



## Prox

Just got mine. I'm very surprised at the quality for the price. The build quality itself is garbage but the screen is fantastic. I got one dead black pixel off to the right. Backlight bleed is very minimal and barely any different than my U2410. I hope it stays working like this.

Just some notes for potential buyers:

The stand is absolutely awful. Do not buy this if you're in a situation where this monitor could even be lightly nudged. It is very cheap and rigid.

These monitors are $300 for a reason. Don't expect quality at least when concerning everything but the panel itself.


----------



## keiths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BeerPowered*
> 
> Well that is too bad. Glossy is so reflective that its burns my eyes. Deal breaker for me.


Anti glare screens for 27" LCDs can be had for $60-75.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RadTech-ClearCal-Screen-Protection-in-Anti-Glare-for-27-iMac-13-308-/110932794620?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d41c1cfc
http://www.ebay.com/itm/27-iMac-Anti-Glare-Frame-/110917317286?pt=Apple_Desktops&hash=item19d32ff2a6
http://www.viewguard.com/en-/27.0%22-Widescreen/27.0%22-Widescreen-ViewGuard-LCD-TV-Anti...Glare-Filter-%28Width-25.00%22-x-Height-16.53%22-16:9-Aspect-Ratio%29


----------



## vtsimple

Has anyone here mange to fix a good amount of bleed? It's hard to notice when the background is not black but my top left and bottom left corners have some bleed.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vtsimple*
> 
> Has anyone here mange to fix a good amount of bleed? It's hard to notice when the background is not black but my top left and bottom left corners have some bleed.


Some have had success removing the screws from the bezel, popping it open, and then closing it back up without the screws. Some are saying their bleed was due to excess pressure from the housing to the bezel. Worth a shot!


----------



## gibonez

I have had 0 input lag the last week of owning this monitor. Suddenly today I am noticing some input lag. Started happening around 2 pm today.

Anyone else know how to test for this and perhaps cure it ?


----------



## BeerPowered

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Anti glare screens for 27" LCDs can be had for $60-75.


That is something I haven't considered. I will have to check it out next time I goto Fry's.


----------



## Markon101

I joined the club. Ordered mine late yesterday. I will report back when I receive it. I will say that some posts on here are making me a bit nervous about getting this display.









Well, we will see......


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> Weaver if you have a 2B, you should be able to hit 100hz at least. It is usually a matter of playing around with the timings.
> Cheers,
> Bo0GeRs


I don't think I have the 2B model I got the multi version that has HDMI, kind of regret getting this version now being HDMI only goes up to 1080p max anyway.

Do you know where to get the 2B model from? Do you have the 2B model?


----------



## keiths

The Catleaps on ebay with HDMI are 1.4a, which should handle 2560x1440.


----------



## weaveR

I got the 1.3 version being my graphics card is only 1.3 capable anyway, the 1.4a version is the Q271 which is still only capable of 1440p although 1.4a is capable of 2160p.


----------



## keiths

1.3 supports 2560x1440.


----------



## weaveR

Well I dont get the option to select 1440p when I use HDMI I guess its probably the cable


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Well I dont get the option to select 1440p when I use HDMI I guess its probably the cable


What kind of graphics card do you have? With HDMI 1.3 you should still may be able to support 1440p if the cable is 8ft or less but not at the full 60Hz... you need HDMI 1.4a for the full 60Hz.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gibonez*
> 
> I have had 0 input lag the last week of owning this monitor. Suddenly today I am noticing some input lag. Started happening around 2 pm today.
> Anyone else know how to test for this and perhaps cure it ?


Turn off v-sync... if you have the Nvidia Kepler cards you have to turn off adaptive v-sync too...


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> What kind of graphics card do you have? With HDMI 1.3 you should still may be able to support 1440p if the cable is 8ft or less but not at the full 60Hz... you need HDMI 1.4a for the full 60Hz.


I have a Radeon 5870 1 GB.

I'm able to get 82 hertz stable with DVI too so I guess DVI has more bandwidth for video being it doesn't carry audio as well.


----------



## zapuff

I recently purchased one of these and I'm quite amazed at the jump in quality of picture. I have a 26.5" Asus monitor that's 1080p~(1200pixels 16:10) and I hate to say it, but I never knew how I managed to use that thing for over a year without ever questioning how terrible media looks on it. The difference in colors, banding, and overall look of any media on the ASUS monitor is just terrible in comparison to the yamakasi catleap.

I only have one (hopefully) minor problem.

When I first got the monitor I did a few basic checks to see if there was any dead or stuck pixels, there didn't appear to be any. Recently, however; there have been these stuck pixels showing up after a few hours of use (mostly while browsing the internet.) *Is this normal for anyone else?* They _do_ disappear after a bit of cloth loving. I only notice them because I do a lot of video encoding and my eyes have become very keen for such minor things. These pixels are very tiny so it's probably something that is hard to notice for most people.

*Could this be related to the power source, or dvi cable?* I've already ordered a new dvi cable from monoprice as it's suggested. I'd rather not order another power brick if I don't have to. It seems to be stable for 8+ hours of use except for an occasional pixel getting stuck. I'm running the monitor at 60hz. Currently, I'm using a cord that's rated for 130v with the brick. Every power cord in my house seems to be rated for 130v, which totals up to at least 25 cables. The brick says its maximum input is 120v. *Is this a problem?* Could this be causing a unstable conversion or something?

I apologize for bolding questions. It just seemed better to format it like that. I'm just assuming this is a regular case of breaking it in as I remember my ASUS monitor had this one pixel that kept acting up in the same regard.


----------



## shanbcn

So which Korean 27 2560x1440monitor is everyone buying here? Because i see many on ebay, so model number o link to ebay will help me. Another question does integrated intel graphics card HD 3000 works with this monitor?


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanbcn*
> 
> So which Korean 27 2560x1440monitor is everyone buying here? Because i see many on ebay, so model number o link to ebay will help me. Another question does integrated intel graphics card HD 3000 works with this monitor?


Integrated HD 3000 does not work as far as I know.


----------



## keiths

Depends on the model of the monitor, the ones everyone rave about are dual dvi, only display 2560x1440, a straight hookup has no input lag like the multi input versions. Intel only saw fit to support 1920x1200 through single dvi, so until someone comes up with a hack, the only way to use intel's integrated gpu is to use one of the multi input versions.


----------



## Noupoi

Few questions from me: do you guys think it would be worth switching from a BenQ XL2410T, which is a 1080P 120Hz monitor to a Catleap for gaming?

What is the difference between the Q270 and the Q270 SE?

Also, is there any way of getting a 2B model? I live in the UK if that's of any relevance.


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> I don't think I have the 2B model I got the multi version that has HDMI, kind of regret getting this version now being HDMI only goes up to 1080p max anyway.
> Do you know where to get the 2B model from? Do you have the 2B model?


Ah okie. The multi version can't "truly" overlock even though the sellers claim they can. They apparently "frame skip" though you will need to ask someone more knowlegable about that.

I do have a 2B model, but I am not allowed to tell you







as the mods will delete my post if I mention how I got mine.

All I can say is search for it yourself.

Best of luck,

Bo0GeRs


----------



## Prox

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Noupoi*
> 
> Few questions from me: do you guys think it would be worth switching from a BenQ XL2410T, which is a 1080P 120Hz monitor to a Catleap for gaming?
> What is the difference between the Q270 and the Q270 SE?
> Also, is there any way of getting a 2B model? I live in the UK if that's of any relevance.


The Q270 SE is the same as the Q270 except it does *not* have speakers.

Q270 = 2W stereo speakers
Q270 SE = No speakers

I ordered the SE but green-sum sent me a Q270. I don't really care that much since I got only one dead pixel and next to no backlight bleeding.


----------



## Havolice

odd thing is that the speaker version is cheaper then the one without speakers wonder why


----------



## weaveR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> Ah okie. The multi version can't "truly" overlock even though the sellers claim they can. They apparently "frame skip" though you will need to ask someone more knowlegable about that.
> I do have a 2B model, but I am not allowed to tell you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as the mods will delete my post if I mention how I got mine.
> All I can say is search for it yourself.
> Best of luck,
> Bo0GeRs


Is the 2B version actually stable at 100+ hertz or is it just able to reach that and not be stable?

I get weird problems with mine when I change the timings via PowerStrip where things don't work e.g. Milkdrop for Winamp just shows a black screen but when I use the 82 hertz option I added with CRU.exe its fine.

CRU.exe dosen't let me add anything higher than 82 hertz though it just doesn't show up on the hertz dropdown box.


----------



## shanbcn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> Ah okie. The multi version can't "truly" overlock even though the sellers claim they can. They apparently "frame skip" though you will need to ask someone more knowlegable about that.
> I do have a 2B model, but I am not allowed to tell you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> as the mods will delete my post if I mention how I got mine.
> All I can say is search for it yourself.
> Best of luck,
> Bo0GeRs


How much more 2B model cost on ebay? Does they even sell there?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanbcn*
> 
> How much more 2B model cost on ebay? Does they even sell there?


Nope. Research since that information is not allowed here on OCN.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> I don't think I have the 2B model I got the multi version that has HDMI, kind of regret getting this version now being HDMI only goes up to 1080p max anyway.
> Do you know where to get the 2B model from? Do you have the 2B model?


As was stated 1.3 supports 2560 x 1440, but you do need a high end HDMI cable capable of 1440 (same for 1.4 and 1.4a HDMI connections.) So check your cable since most being sold are only 1080p ready.

2Bs don't exist - I cannot say more, but research will get you places I am sure.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shanbcn*
> 
> So which Korean 27 2560x1440monitor is everyone buying here? Because i see many on ebay, so model number o link to ebay will help me. Another question does integrated intel graphics card HD 3000 works with this monitor?


Catleap Multi model it works perfectly at 2560x1440 with HD3000 and VGA connection
With HDMI and DVI connection it works fine until 1920x1080


----------



## forthedisplay

Okay.

Catleap 2703 - does it still have a bad stand? is there a common 15 dead pixel policy for these instead of the normal 5?
Wecube ST2770W - anyone who knows about this monitor? multi-input, -> more input lag. But do the other monitors have things like HDCP support etc? ...or does anyone know what monitor is this, even?
Crossover LED-P... I think everyone knows what this is.

Going to order one tomorrow. Main reason is more pixels, work stuff and editing programs will thank nicely. I will also use the monitor for games, though. Which one would you pick?

Prices are 295, 360 and 350 (roughly) respectively, and I've got a VAT on top of it. I'm hunting for a budget monitor, even the pricier alternatives would save me a good couple of hundred. The stand will do as long as it doesn't wobble, if I need pivot I get a separate stand. The crossover is LED-P though because the difference between that and the normal isn't all that much.


----------



## wkstar

The Seller will send you an Email asking what you want the customs value to be.
Somewhere in the first 5 pages of the thread it say to put $ 30.oo so that Europeans do not have to pay VAT

IF you live in the States, There is ZERO customs fee;s


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *weaveR*
> 
> Is the 2B version actually stable at 100+ hertz or is it just able to reach that and not be stable?
> I get weird problems with mine when I change the timings via PowerStrip where things don't work e.g. Milkdrop for Winamp just shows a black screen but when I use the 82 hertz option I added with CRU.exe its fine.
> CRU.exe dosen't let me add anything higher than 82 hertz though it just doesn't show up on the hertz dropdown box.


Mine runs stable at 120hz. BF3 looks gorgeous at 120hz. Only issue is finding a graphics card that can churn out 120 fps at max settings









Cheers,

Bo0GeRs


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Catleap Multi model it works perfectly at 2560x1440 with HD3000 and VGA connection
> With HDMI and DVI connection it works fine until 1920x1080


Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the multi's suffered from input lag. If you don't play first person shooters, is not a problem.

Cheers,

Bo0GeRs


----------



## curlyp

Well everyone, I am stumped and not sure what is going on. Hopefully, someone can assist me!

The 3 Catleap Q270 work (individually) on my test computer through the DVI-D cable. My test computer has a Radeon HD4670. However, when I connected either of the three monitors to my main build, (which has 2 MSI Lightning 7970's), through DVI-D or Mini-DP, I get no signal/video.

I have replaced the cables with:

3x http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2
3x http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=5106&seq=1&format=2

Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone been able to run the Catleaps on a 7970?


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Well everyone, I am stumped and not sure what is going on. Hopefully, someone can assist me!
> The 3 Catleap Q270 work (individually) on my test computer through the DVI-D cable. My test computer has a Radeon HD4670. However, when I connected either of the three monitors to my main build, (which has 2 MSI Lightning 7970's), through DVI-D or Mini-DP, I get no signal/video.
> I have replaced the cables with:
> 3x http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2
> 3x http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=5106&seq=1&format=2
> Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone been able to run the Catleaps on a 7970?


This adapter WILL NOT WORK:
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=5106&seq=1&format=2&ref=cj

You need an *ACTIVE* mini display port to dual link DVI adapter like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MDP2DVID-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B004I6L6DW/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344750094&sr=1-7&keywords=active+mini+displayport+to+dvi


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the multi's suffered from input lag. If you don't play first person shooters, is not a problem.
> Cheers,
> Bo0GeRs


The 2B multis on eBay right now are not so much a victim of lag as frame skip. These 2B clones, the mulits, are not capable of true 120hz goodness. What happens is they will accept whatever refresh rate the user sets, but will scale down to its 60hz maximum. Meaning you set it at 120hz and it skips every other to hit 60 hz. Set it at 96 then it skips X number to hit 60hz and so on.


----------



## echna

Hey guys!

Considering the price and extra input lag I'd like to buy one of the Q270 with dvi-d. I'm not sure though whether my laptop can support it or whether I'll have to go with the more expensive and slower hdmi version Q271. I've been reading people have trouble using an adapter









Will my GT 540M support the dvi-d Q270 with the appropiate cable from hdmi to dvi-d?

I'm running it on an asus a43sv.

Thanks for your help!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> The 2B multis on eBay right now are not so much a victim of lag as frame skip. These 2B clones, the mulits, are not capable of true 120hz goodness. What happens is they will accept whatever refresh rate the user sets, but will scale down to its 60hz maximum. Meaning you set it at 120hz and it skips every other to hit 60 hz. Set it at 96 then it skips X number to hit 60hz and so on.


I'm fine with gaming on my 2C version @ 60hz. I checked with someone who had a 2B version from way back and the 120hz on that seemed pretty bad compared to the 120hz BenQ he had next to it.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *speedyeggtart*
> 
> This adapter WILL NOT WORK:
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=5106&seq=1&format=2&ref=cj
> You need an *ACTIVE* mini display port to dual link DVI adapter like this one:
> http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MDP2DVID-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B004I6L6DW/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1344750094&sr=1-7&keywords=active+mini+displayport+to+dvi


Okay, thanks.I didn't realize that I need an active mini display port. So, I am going to need 3 of them, which will run almost $300. Has anyone tried a less expensive active mini display port?

Also, should one of the monitors work if it is directly plugged into the DVI-D port?


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Okay, thanks.I didn't realize that I need an active mini display port. So, I am going to need 3 of them, which will run almost $300. Has anyone tried a less expensive active mini display port?
> Also, should one of the monitors work if it is directly plugged into the DVI-D port?


I'm currently using one of these adapters (I use the regular DP-dvi one but same brand). Works very well & not expensive. I don't have a catleap tho, but I'm 100% sure this will work for you.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> I'm currently using one of these adapters (I use the regular DP-dvi one but same brand). Works very well & not expensive. I don't have a catleap tho, but I'm 100% sure this will work for you.


Thanks for the recommendation. This is less expensive and it says active. Also, it says it supports AMD Eyefinity. Has anyone used this with the Catleaps?


----------



## Brokenstorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> I'm currently using one of these adapters (I use the regular DP-dvi one but same brand). Works very well & not expensive. I don't have a catleap tho, but I'm 100% sure this will work for you.


"The UltraAV® Mini DisplayPort to DVI Single-Link Active adapter..."

You need a dual link for 2560*1440


----------



## Triniboi82

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brokenstorm*
> 
> "The UltraAV® Mini DisplayPort to DVI Single-Link Active adapter..."
> You need a dual link for 2560*1440


I see, noted.

CurlyP forget my suggestion then


----------



## Havolice

ok so i am at the point of ordering new monitors

but the question in my head keeps biting me GHOSTING

i got a dell 2711 atm i hate the AG grain coating of doom but the ghosting is awefull in some ocasions * even when running past some one in WoW i see ghosting on both sides of player models.

can anybody tell me if this is also the case on the korean made monitors

or how it is in general

* on note im currently installing my older samsung 27a550 display wich is a TN panel on 60 hz see how the ghosting was on this f er*

this tn panel also had the little ghosting


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Well everyone, I am stumped and not sure what is going on. Hopefully, someone can assist me!
> The 3 Catleap Q270 work (individually) on my test computer through the DVI-D cable. My test computer has a Radeon HD4670. However, when I connected either of the three monitors to my main build, (which has 2 MSI Lightning 7970's), through DVI-D or Mini-DP, I get no signal/video.
> I have replaced the cables with:
> 3x http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10209&cs_id=1020902&p_id=2408&seq=1&format=2
> 3x http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042802&p_id=5106&seq=1&format=2
> Does anyone have any suggestions? Has anyone been able to run the Catleaps on a 7970?


I think the 7970 lighting DVI port is a single link... That is why i did not get 7970 lightings when i had 7970s.. if you read the newegg reviews on the card alot of people were upset about it.

Ports

DisplayPort
4 x Mini DisplayPort

*DVI
SL-DVI-I / SL-DVI-D*


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> I think the 7970 lighting DVI port is a single link... That is why i did not get 7970 lightings when i had 7970s.. if you read the newegg reviews on the card alot of people were upset about it.
> Ports
> DisplayPort
> 4 x Mini DisplayPort
> *DVI
> SL-DVI-I / SL-DVI-D*


This is correct, DVI on this card will not support this monitor.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Okay, thanks.I didn't realize that I need an active mini display port. So, I am going to need 3 of them, which will run almost $300. Has anyone tried a less expensive active mini display port?
> Also, should one of the monitors work if it is directly plugged into the DVI-D port?


Search Ebay for the dell Buzzlinks there 35$ each and are Active But they use Normal DP to DVI-D so if you have Mini DP they will not work.

Also over on Evga forums there are 2 Mini DP to DL Dvi-D for 50$ each and there is also afew floating around on [H] for about the same price.

Meh trying to get 5.1ghz Stable on a 3770k sucks =/


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Triniboi82*
> 
> I'm currently using one of these adapters (I use the regular DP-dvi one but same brand). Works very well & not expensive. I don't have a catleap tho, but I'm 100% sure this will work for you.


And the important bit

Quote:


> Supports TV Resolutions of up to 1080p and up to *1920x1200* (reduced blanking) for Computers


----------



## eternal7trance

Nvidia tends to be the better card for these monitors since AMD thought it would be cool to only put one dual link dvi port on their cards.


----------



## kingjain

Hello everyone,

I just hooked up my catleap q270 LED se.... it is working great with a BRILLIANT display! Only problem is that it is interfering severely with the wifi connection on my computer (2011 macbook air). I have never heard of any such problem on this forum. When i keep the monitor connected and turn it off, internet pages load. As soon as i turn it back on, pages fail to load. Around 2 feet from the monitor pages wont load, but if I move it back 1-2 feet more the page that couldn't load before will then begin to load at normal speed....

Basically I'm trying to say that it is DEFINITELY the monitor's doing. Anyone else have this problem? Suggestions?


----------



## geovas77

Sorry but couldnt resist, might be one of Apple's patents to force you into buying their overpriced cr#p!


----------



## KarmaKiller

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electromagnetic_interference
Depending on the router you have, it's possible to switch channels and see if that helps. Monitor are well known for causing interference though with WiFi signals.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, I thought the multi's suffered from input lag. If you don't play first person shooters, is not a problem.
> Cheers,
> Bo0GeRs


The panel is the same of SE model,and playng at 2560x1440 scaler does't work
So,why Multi model should suffer of input lag?


----------



## corhen

my understanding is that the Multi unit basicly has another step in the process, where the SE goes Input>output, the multi goes Input>multiple input board>output


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> The panel is the same of SE model,and playng at 2560x1440 scaler does't work
> So,why Multi model should suffer of input lag?


More inputs.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingjain*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I just hooked up my catleap q270 LED se.... it is working great with a BRILLIANT display! Only problem is that it is interfering severely with the wifi connection on my computer (2011 macbook air). I have never heard of any such problem on this forum. When i keep the monitor connected and turn it off, internet pages load. As soon as i turn it back on, pages fail to load. Around 2 feet from the monitor pages wont load, but if I move it back 1-2 feet more the page that couldn't load before will then begin to load at normal speed....
> Basically I'm trying to say that it is DEFINITELY the monitor's doing. Anyone else have this problem? Suggestions?


This can happen since none of the Korean monitors meet the FCC or CE guidelines for interference (and all that other pesky safety stuff.)

EDIT: I say NONE since I have yet see a box that has the proper certs on it. I know for a fact that none of the Cats have been certified to meet the FCC or CE standards (if they have been, I have yet to see a cert or the proper identification). Now, why or how they are allowed in the US or EU? No idea.


----------



## AcidNfection

I just ordered from BCC! I am so nervous lol. I hope I get a great display, although I'm fully aware of the A- panels, but hope I get something great out of this lottery! I will post pics once I get it sometime this week!! Soooo excited!!









Edit: Just got an email today from BCC saying he needs 1-3 days to test the monitor to make sure its good, then off to Idaho!! AND I just ordered my bluray burner from newegg! Christmas comes early to me this year lol


----------



## King4x4

Just signed up to OCN to state one thing.

You guys rock! Just received my first Catleap last week and while having only one dead pixel in the very small bottom side of the screen (Didn't notice it for two days until I decided to look for it) I am extremely happy with what I got for my money.

However, The screen was so sexy... I was blackmailed into surrendering it to my Photoshop loving wife (Hey she makes money out of that habit... so why not give her a chance!) and I bet I am the first married dude that had the book thrown at him to hand over one of these screens in OCN!

Any why... Second one incoming in 10 days time!

P.S. Had a single 6970 and the card got raped... So ordered two Gigabyte 7950s Windforce ($730 with shipping to my part of the world? Locally going for 450 each? thats a steal!) so gonna update a bit how them babies overclock.


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> This can happen since none of the Korean monitors meet the FCC or CE guidelines for interference (and all that other pesky safety stuff.)
> 
> EDIT: I say NONE since I have yet see a box that has the proper certs on it. I know for a fact that none of the Cats have been certified to meet the FCC or CE standards (if they have been, I have yet to see a cert or the proper identification).  Now, why or how they are allowed in the US or EU? No idea.


They are getting around it by listing it as "Gift" on the USA Customs documents. When the Ebay sellers actually list it as "monitor" USA Customs will require the importer (receiver) fill out a FCC Form 740 stating it is not for sale or distribution in the USA and that the receiver is knowingly importing a non-FCC certified device = holds your monitor in customs for awhile up to a month.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Just signed up to OCN to state one thing.
> You guys rock! Just received my first Catleap last week and while having only one dead pixel in the very small bottom side of the screen (Didn't notice it for two days until I decided to look for it) I am extremely happy with what I got for my money.
> However, The screen was so sexy... I was blackmailed into surrendering it to my Photoshop loving wife (Hey she makes money out of that habit... so why not give her a chance!) and I bet I am the first married dude that had the book thrown at him to hand over one of these screens in OCN!
> Any why... Second one incoming in 10 days time!
> P.S. Had a single 6970 and the card got raped... So ordered two Gigabyte 7950s Windforce ($730 with shipping to my part of the world? Locally going for 450 each? thats a steal!) so gonna update a bit how them babies overclock.


I hope you don't plan on multimonitor gaming with those 7950s. You'll have to get expensive powered dp to dvi cables to make it work with more than one catleap.


----------



## King4x4

All ready have one of those previous expensive Active DP adapters with USB. (Was one of the first early adapters from the 5000 series eyefinity launch).

So only need 1 more screen and one more adpater for eyefinity. However, Eyefinity is nice and dandy on the smaller screens (23-24in) anything over that You need an IQ of over 180 to just get much more info from the 27in screens.

Nice to play. Big upkeep keeping it running. Switching back to 27in screens for sanity of my mind


----------



## mehhz

Hi I just got my two Yamakasi however one of them is faulty =/

anyone have any idea how to fix this?

http://i.imgur.com/XTbVI.jpg

I've tried the cables from the other catleap that work but it still shows the same picture.


----------



## Markon101

I just received mine, it is absolutely perfect! Not a single issue, didn't even have to set the resolution in my Nvidia control panel. (580 GTX, got the Q270 SE model, using the stock D-DVI cable that came with it.) \

Pics soon!


----------



## superroach

My screen arrived earlier today.
Here is a gallery of photos showing inputs, stand and it on etc!


http://imgur.com/a


It looks brilliant I havn't noticed a dead pixel yet.

It dwarfs the 23 inch monitor next to it. Positively dwarfed.

This is the Yamakasi Q271 btw the way. I think I'm one of the first few with that model, anyone have any questions about it? Don't have a display port to DVI yet for laptop display, but i've just been using the dvi at the moment.


----------



## sceloglaux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sceloglaux*
> 
> I unpacked my Catleap Q270 just a few minutes ago and it seems to have a blinking red light and not turn on whatever I do. I tried the included power cable with Korean to USA adapter initially, and then a spare cable to the power brick that I had lying around. There doesn't seem to be any information about the blinking red condition in the FAQ at the beginning of this this thread, so I'm sort of at a loss at what to do.
> Sending this monitor back seems kinda scary. Any advice would be super great.


A quick update, after reading all I could about the blinking red fault with the monitor I had a sneaking suspicion it was the power adapter. I contacted the seller on eBay and he thought the same thing. He shipped me out another adapter gratis and I just plugged it up to monitor glory! A note on the seller, accessorieswhole on eBay, he was probably the best seller I've ever encountered. His english was great, he replied to me sometimes within minutes of me sending him messages, and the shipping was incredibly prompt. Seriously. I received a monitor from South Korea faster than Newegg shipped me something from two states away.

I would buy a car from this guy if I could.


----------



## Markon101

Here's a picture, my room here doesn't have good lighting. I don't even have any light bleed at all!


















(This wallpaper is from wallpapers wide)


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Markon101*
> 
> Here's a picture, my room here doesn't have good lighting. I don't even have any light bleed at all!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (This wallpaper is from wallpapers wide)


Hmm seems to me that flame is coming out of the wrong end lol..


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> More inputs.


More inputs not affect to lag


----------



## Markon101

Maybe I should contact Green-sum and ask why the cat on my monitor is spitting fire.... LOL I got really lucky, I don't even have ANY back light bleeding. (And Green sum got it to me over this weekend, ordered late Thursday, came early this Monday!)









Compared to my old 23.6in Asus TN monitor, this thing blew me away. I also ordered a Pantone Huey Pro, so i'll report back once it's calibrated properly.


----------



## Charade

Hi guys,

How would this work with my ps3? Does it scale properly?

Also, I've seen different models of the Q270 on ebay. Is there one that's better than the others?

Thnx.


----------



## ziofranco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charade*
> 
> Hi guys,
> How would this work with my ps3? Does it scale properly?
> Also, I've seen different models of the Q270 on ebay. Is there one that's better than the others?
> Thnx.


Multi model scale perfectly to 720p, but if you use only ps3 ,buy an 1080p monitor


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charade*
> 
> Hi guys,
> How would this work with my ps3? Does it scale properly?
> Also, I've seen different models of the Q270 on ebay. Is there one that's better than the others?
> Thnx.


These monitors are kind of pointless for PS3s since they can't play that high. Would be cheaper and better just to get a 27 inch 1080p monitor.


----------



## plum

Pointless to buy a monitor for a PS3 right now when next gen consoles are around the corner, if that's your thing.


----------



## Queesy

Hello,

I am debating between the *Catleap* and the *Crossover*.

Right now, the only plus I see with the Catleap is the possibility of a higher refresh rate of 65-80? I know there used to be an overclock "2B" model that could be overclocked to 120 Hz but that is discontinued.

Are the current models now able to overclock up to 100+ Hz? Or is the better question to ask is if these current Catleap panels can overclock at all? (I see spoilers with a bunch of download links on page 1, does this only refer to the "2B" models?)

I plan on coupling this monitor with an *EVGA GTX 670 FTW Edition*.

The crossover has a max of 60 Hz and cannot be overclocked (at least not easily), but imo has a superior stand and less text on the front which I like (I am a minimalist) .

Any input on either model is appreciated. On ebay both models are about the same price so price doesnt dictate anything.

Thank you great OC community.


----------



## Humanodude

Nice club, just joined to download files to overclock my monitor, thanks!


----------



## eatearth

Hey,
I've been reading whole threads over a week now.
I'm kinda considering to get either yamakasi multi or crossover 2720mdp.
Couldn't tell much differences but the price.

I'm using mac pro.
Most of you purchased from BCC and green sum.
are they reliable?

my friend got his monitor from AW and he recommended for it but I do not see much of AW comments here.
Are they a newbie?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Hello,
> I am debating between the *Catleap* and the *Crossover*.
> Right now, the only plus I see with the Catleap is the possibility of a higher refresh rate of 65-80? I know there used to be an overclock "2B" model that could be overclocked to 120 Hz but that is discontinued.
> Are the current models now able to overclock up to 100+ Hz? Or is the better question to ask is if these current Catleap panels can overclock at all? (I see spoilers with a bunch of download links on page 1, does this only refer to the "2B" models?)
> I plan on coupling this monitor with an *EVGA GTX 670 FTW Edition*.
> The crossover has a max of 60 Hz and cannot be overclocked (at least not easily), but imo has a superior stand and less text on the front which I like (I am a minimalist) .
> Any input on either model is appreciated. On ebay both models are about the same price so price doesnt dictate anything.
> Thank you great OC community.


No, the current Catleaps that you buy from eBay (unless it specifically states so) are not meant to be overclocked. If you can overclock them, it'll probably be very little.

Although the Catleaps are nice and I don't have any problems with mine, I should have and probably would have went with the Crossover. My monitor in addition to the custom third-party stand costs as much as one Crossover. Regardless, I am happy with my purchase, and you'll be happy with either one of these monitors.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Hello,
> I am debating between the *Catleap* and the *Crossover*.


I choose crossover for the metal case and the better stand because it swivels and tilts and pivots because I hope to buy two more for eyefinity/surround and I wouldn't have to replace the stands.

other than that they are the same panel


----------



## Kryptos

Just purchased my first Catleap from green-sum. I am a little disappointed the model that they are shipping now isn't overclockable. But still excited for it. I am current using an older Samsung SyncMaster 245bw. Still a pretty good 24 in monitor. Can't wait for my first IPS panel.


----------



## Humanodude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> No, the current Catleaps that you buy from eBay (unless it specifically states so) are not meant to be overclocked. If you can overclock them, it'll probably be very little.
> Although the Catleaps are nice and I don't have any problems with mine, I should have and probably would have went with the Crossover. My monitor in addition to the custom third-party stand costs as much as one Crossover. Regardless, I am happy with my purchase, and you'll be happy with either one of these monitors.


Really could have used this information on the main page of the thread before I attempted the overclock. It would have saved me an hour of work and a hard reboot... did I do any damage to my monitor / card? Everything seems to be working ok...

I found this forum because I was searching for a solution to why my screen was tearing while scrolling on Firefox. I have an ASUS GTX 670 and a new Yamakasi catleap q270. I get the feeling from reviews that I should have gone for the 680... Does anybody have any input on this problem?


----------



## wkstar

Code:



Code:


Does anybody have any input on this problem?

There are 759 pages with every Question and Response that can every be asked on these screens
By page 12, It was said that there are NO More of the Not on Propose Overclockable Monitors

If someone claims they have some for sale they are selling for $600.oo+
Not worth it most people

Code:



Code:


screen was tearing while scrolling on Firefox

If a browser which uses very little computer resources is giving you such Massive Trouble.
Then a new Screen or Video card will not change much.

Try using Chrome
Maybe it is just that Your eyes are super sensitive


----------



## Queesy

Is it true that the difference between the Leapcat *2703* and the Leapcat *270Q* is that the stand is better on the 2703?

If that is so, why is the 270Q more expensive on ebay than the 2703? Wouldn't a better stand = more expensive.

I feel like I'm missing something here.

I was thinking of getting a *Crossover 27Q* because some users mention that it has a better stand over the Leapcat 270Q. However, if the 2703 has a better stand (and if someone can comment if it is better or equivalent to the Crossover 270Q stand) then I will be more inclined to get the 2703.

As of current, the Leapcat 2703 is about $40.00 (USD) cheaper than the Crossover 27Q.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Is it true that the difference between the Leapcat *2703* and the Leapcat *270Q* is that the stand is better on the 2703?
> If that is so, why is the 270Q more expensive on ebay than the 2703? Wouldn't a better stand = more expensive.
> I feel like I'm missing something here.
> I was thinking of getting a *Crossover 27Q* because some users mention that it has a better stand over the Leapcat 270Q. However, if the 2703 has a better stand (and if someone can comment if it is better or equivalent to the Crossover 270Q stand) then I will be more inclined to get the 2703.
> *As of current, the Leapcat 2703 is about $40.00 (USD) cheaper than the Crossover 27Q*.


I will make a guess, BUT I could be completely wrong.

*2703* can have up to 15 dead pixels before it is considered faulty, so maybe using slightly cheaper panel and slightly more chance of getting a defective panels









Think I would buy from DreamSeller if I was getting a 2703

But I did ask BCC if that was a typo and he said it wasn't.

His reply

"Hello
In this monitor,
according to our dule, accepted dae pixel is up to 15pcs.
Thanks

- bigclothcraft"

For the 2703 monitor

Bigclothcraft



Dream Seller


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I will make a guess, BUT I could be completely wrong.
> 
> *2703* can have up to 15 dead pixels before it is considered faulty, so maybe using slightly cheaper, slightly more defective panels


Ewwww. That would make sense too.

I think I will go with the Crossover 27Q LED-P for $350 from Ebay. I was debating between the P and the non-P model and finally decided on the P-model because of how awesome viewing word docs, pdfs, and forum threads are in portrait.

Thank you for your reply


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I will make a guess, BUT I could be completely wrong.
> 
> *2703* can have up to 15 dead pixels before it is considered faulty, so maybe using slightly cheaper, slightly more defective panels


You are correct!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e6fcfb462

Anything less then 15 dead pixels it is okay!

P.S. Are you a wizard?


----------



## PcBuilderBG

Hi guys you can check a short review of 



 that I made


----------



## Felics

New to the site but i have read alot of this forum everyone here does a great job of getting information out there thank you.
Bit the bullet and purachsed mine yesterday from BCC who so far are fast and helpful.
One thing i noticed wasnt discussed too much was that when you purchase these montiors you are given the choice to mark it as a gift and select the invoice price to avoid some high price import tax.
I selected $100 because thats what i have read people from america have been doing. Being from the UK I hope there isnt any difference but ill have to wait and see I guess.
Thank you again to all you active forum members and to ScribbyDaGreat for putting together a great OP.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> You are correct!
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e6fcfb462
> Anything less then 15 dead pixels it is okay!
> P.S. Are you a wizard?


I ended up buying the 2703 LED and while my experience might not be conclusive and reflective of another person's experience, I was fairly fortunate to get a flawless monitor, with the exception of some minor backlight bleeding.

I also apparently didn't notice the fifteen dead pixel limit, although it could have been five when I bought it.


----------



## superroach

Full setup completed...
http://i.imgur.com/UNVH9.jpg
The middle screen is the Yamakasi Q271. Tbh I didn't need the extra inputs. But the stand is nice.

The most impressive thing for me is that I now have 7.4 Million pixels infront of my eyes now. (including the Samsung Galaxy S3). We've come so far!

I'm going to make a video review tomorrow, any questions of things you'd like me to cover?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humanodude*
> 
> Really could have used this information on the main page of the thread before I attempted the overclock. It would have saved me an hour of work and a hard reboot... did I do any damage to my monitor / card? Everything seems to be working ok...


It's in the FAQ listed in the first post:

"•*Newer Catleaps seem to have a top OC limit of 65-67hz.* Very few people have received OC-ready Catleaps in March 2012."

"•It's 60hz default, not 97hz or 120hz. You can OC some variant of these monitors - see the section on OCing below *(newer models speed limited to 65-67hz - for now.)*"


----------



## Nulled

What seller did you guys buy from and how much dead pixels did you get?

I'm debating between Green-sum and Dream-seller


----------



## Humanodude

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> It's in the FAQ listed in the first post:
> "•*Newer Catleaps seem to have a top OC limit of 65-67hz.* Very few people have received OC-ready Catleaps in March 2012."
> "•It's 60hz default, not 97hz or 120hz. You can OC some variant of these monitors - see the section on OCing below *(newer models speed limited to 65-67hz - for now.)*"


I did not have any questions about my monitor that would lead me to click on "FAQ." A simple Internet search brought me to an implied solution on this forum, where the first thing that grabbed my attention off the front page was "Overclock Instructions." I have no authority to tell the OP how to run this club. If one spends any time reading posts on "slickdeals.net," which is how I found out about the excellent Catleap monitors in the first place, a great emphasis is placed on making the front page of posts as informative and not-misleading as possible.

I respect your defense of your forum; however, the previous poster's implication that something important buried on page 12 of 700+ is somehow good enough is absurd. The front page is visually informative and attention grabbing, and Internet searchers who find something informative should not be expected to have to search for the negation of their intentions, just to see if the negation takes precedence. I will accept my responsibility for not doing my due diligence, and now I am paying the price by having to write this appeal to logic to help future seekers.

I am appealing to the integrity of any moderators of this club to make a change to the "Overclock Instructions" by adding anything that informs the user of the situation; for example, one line: "ONLY for monitors pre-Feb 2012 - see FAQ" so further seekers will not become easily entangled in a risky, dead-end procedure.

For anyone else who comes here with a problem with screen tearing in Windows or Firefox with a GTX 670, this solved problem:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1267794/gtx-670-ftw-screen-tearing


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humanodude*
> 
> I respect your defense of your forum;


In my defense, I've mentioned numerous times that the overclocking instructions would only serve to confuse new owners who thought their new Catleap could be OC'd.

Like here:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Still, it's probably a moot point at this stage since I'd imagine very few 2Bs are in the wild. I bought mine used from a member who changes his setup fairly often and used the long form Nvidia guide, worked like a charm.
> *Probably just confusing guys who are buying Catleaps and read that they can be overclocked*.


Quote:


> I am appealing to the integrity of any moderators of this club to make a change to the "Overclock Instructions" by adding anything that informs the user of the situation; for example, one line: "ONLY for monitors pre-Feb 2012 - see FAQ" so further seekers will not become easily entangled in a risky, dead-end procedure.


The OP DID edit his post to remove the overclocking instructions, just a few days ago. They were put back in by the moderators.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> Check the first post, I have edited the nVidia and AMD Ocing guides back in after scribby removed them.


----------



## eternal7trance

If you are getting this monitor just because you want the OC capability, it's really not that great even on the ones that can OC. I've seen a real 2B vs a BenQ 120hz and the BenQ was so much better in comparison.


----------



## Nulled

Would this monitor work with my current GPU? It's the EVGA GTX 570 HD.

I currently play TF2 and heavy video editing.


----------



## Queesy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> Would this monitor work with my current GPU? It's the EVGA GTX 570 HD.
> I currently play TF2 and heavy video editing.


Yes.


----------



## eternal7trance

Guys please use search or actually look on the ebay page before asking the same questions over and over again.


----------



## Nulled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> Yes.


So there will be no performance issues at all?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> So there will be no performance issues at all?


You will have lower frame rates than 1080p gaming, but that's to be expected as there are a lot more pixels


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> I will make a guess, BUT I could be completely wrong.
> 
> *2703* can have up to 15 dead pixels before it is considered faulty, so maybe using slightly cheaper panel and slightly more chance of getting a defective panels
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think I would buy from DreamSeller if I was getting a 2703
> 
> But I did ask BCC if that was a typo and he said it wasn't.
> 
> His reply
> 
> "Hello
> In this monitor,
> according to our dule, accepted dae pixel is up to 15pcs.
> Thanks
> 
> - bigclothcraft"
> 
> For the 2703 monitor
> 
> Bigclothcraft
> 
> 
> 
> Dream Seller


that is the policy for ALL A- panels - it is the industry standard that they are quoting you. A grade panels are 3 dead or stuck anywhere on the screen, but have a higher rate of perfect pixel - 70%+ compared to 40-50% for A- panels.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Humanodude*
> 
> I did not have any questions about my monitor that would lead me to click on "FAQ." A simple Internet search brought me to an implied solution on this forum, where the first thing that grabbed my attention off the front page was "Overclock Instructions." I have no authority to tell the OP how to run this club. If one spends any time reading posts on "slickdeals.net," which is how I found out about the excellent Catleap monitors in the first place, a great emphasis is placed on making the front page of posts as informative and not-misleading as possible.
> I respect your defense of your forum; however, the previous poster's implication that something important buried on page 12 of 700+ is somehow good enough is absurd. The front page is visually informative and attention grabbing, and Internet searchers who find something informative should not be expected to have to search for the negation of their intentions, just to see if the negation takes precedence. I will accept my responsibility for not doing my due diligence, and now I am paying the price by having to write this appeal to logic to help future seekers.
> I am appealing to the integrity of any moderators of this club to make a change to the "Overclock Instructions" by adding anything that informs the user of the situation; for example, one line: "ONLY for monitors pre-Feb 2012 - see FAQ" so further seekers will not become easily entangled in a risky, dead-end procedure.
> For anyone else who comes here with a problem with screen tearing in Windows or Firefox with a GTX 670, this solved problem:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1267794/gtx-670-ftw-screen-tearing


No offense, but the FAQ should always be the first point of entry for the vast majority of people since it includes little tidbits you may not have known. As Gnarly said - I removed the OC sections since they are grossly out of date with the current state of things. The information was put back in. I see no reason to change those sections as the majority of people on here know there are very few OC monitors out there and where to find them if they needed one or even additional information.


----------



## Starwitch

Just got my Catleap Q270 SE from pallascopi that I ordered on Sat. It just came today (Tue). I got some strange FCC 740 form issue but sent an email to pallascopi and he took care of it. I couldn't find any dead pixels and backlighting seems to be ok (I'm in a very bright room atm so I can't really tell). The monitor comes with a very slight green tint but that was easily taken care of with software calibration.

I was holding my breath the entire weekend. All in all, I am extremely happy with this purchase! I am so glad I stumbled upon this thread. I was ready to jump on a $400 1080p LG.


----------



## FishHeadswg

My second monitor from pallascopi just came in, I'm afraid to look for pixels because of that saying but otherwise it seems perfect. Well, aside from the stand, but that's expected.

It looks like it was purely FedEx's fault on that first one, still waiting on the claim result to see how it gets sorted out.


----------



## Starwitch

Yeah, that's what I was afraid of. He just sends the monitor with no double packing. But I lucked out. And yes the base is less stable than the some of the people I've dated.


----------



## FishHeadswg

I actually got that same FCC form, filled it out myself with no problems. He apparently took care of it the first time but for whatever reason I got the call this time around.

I guess it just depends on whether he's awake or not for the call when FedEx gets the package in Anchorage.


----------



## Scorpion49

Well I finally got mine after nearly a month. Good thing it doesn't work at all, it really makes up for the time I've spent waiting for it









I only tried it briefly on two different machines but I get no display signal at all, I'll have to look at it more after I get home from work.


----------



## Heff04

I finally pulled the trigger and bought one.









I went with the newer 2703 from Bigclothcraft. Can't wait to get it! So worried that I'll get a dud. I'm so ready to join the club


----------



## N256

I ordered a catleap 2703. Am I able to use the default stand and an aftermarket arm mount at the same time?


----------



## curlyp

FYI everyone - I was able to get the Catleaps to work with my MSI Lightning 7970's.

Here is what you need:

http://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-007B-DisplayPort-Dual-Link-Adapter/dp/B00856WJH8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8



I hope this helps anyone else who has/had problems.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N256*
> 
> I ordered a catleap 2703. Am I able to use the default stand and an aftermarket arm mount at the same time?


I have no idea why you would want to do that, but yes you can.


----------



## Scorpion49

Well I got mine working, after figuring out that I have a switch on my 7970 to go between single link and dual link mode. However, all of my cables seem to be "bad". I get a ton of green dots on the desktop with them, the best one is actually the one that came with the screen with only a few dozen flashing blue and green pixels. My supposedly high quality dual link cable that was working good for 120hz has nearly the whole desktop covered in flashing green pixels (programs aren't affected somehow).


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

So the other day I watched a youtube video from motherboards.org and Elric mentioned something about a catleap monitor and how people have been having issues with them, however, the consensus seemed to be that they were cheap high end monitors.

So I looked it up and for 300 bucks I might consider trying to see if I can't get one myself. However, I am not so sure that is a worth while investment or the risk.

Currently I have a samsung 24 inch monitor that is running at 1920x1200. I do like it a lot, but probably not as much as I would like a 27 inch monitor running at 2560x1440.

I am wondering if it is even worth it to upgrade (keep in mind I wouldn't be spending a whole lot of money on the monitor after I sell my old one, so don't worry about the price factor)

What is the quality like?

What is the likelihood that my experience will turn into a nightmare?

And lastly, if I do try to buy one, is there a way in which I can choose the best model?

Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## Hamy144

Well I was blown away by my catleap, I won't go back to 1080p again.
And you can't expect the stand quality or bezel to be the best as you are not paying a premium.
Most likely your transaction will go smoothly, even if you get a dud the seller will pay shipping back.
At the moment the cheapest is the 2703 but can have more dead pixels, your best bet is a variant of the Q270, the multi has input lag but has an HDMI port as well.
If you are worried about taking a risk about defective pixels get the perfect pixel version..


----------



## wkstar

What is the quality like?
Catleap 2703
Neither I, my wife or friends have noticed or complained about reflections
The screens are crystal clear, no pixel or light bleed problems

What is the likelihood that my experience will turn into a nightmare?
Nightmare % = Maybe 5 percent
Just relax on the shipping time, it might take 4 days instead of two

And lastly, if I do try to buy one, is there a way in which I can choose the best model?
They ALL have the same screen
You just need to pick which, Bezel, Name, Stand, Speaker or Not, Glass or Not, One Input or Many & price that will make you happy


----------



## Tjj226 Angel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> What is the quality like?
> Catleap 2703
> Neither I, my wife or friends have noticed or complained about reflections
> The screens are crystal clear, no pixel or light bleed problems
> What is the likelihood that my experience will turn into a nightmare?
> Nightmare % = Maybe 5 percent
> Just relax on the shipping time, it might take 4 days instead of two
> And lastly, if I do try to buy one, is there a way in which I can choose the best model?
> They ALL have the same screen
> You just need to pick which, Bezel, Name, Stand, Speaker or Not, Glass or Not, One Input or Many & price that will make you happy


There are two things I am confused on, one of which you brought up. What does it mean when it says with or without glass? I understand that you can buy it with a glass screen, but what would happen if I buy one without glass. Does that mean it is just a bare LCD panel, or does it at least have some sort of screen protector like plastic.

The second thing that I am trying to get sorted out is that there seems to be panels that can and can not overclock. Does that mean I can't overclock my GPU/CPU if I get the wrong model?

And as a bonus question, what model would I need if I just needed a panel with speakers, glass, and 1 dvi or hdmi port.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

I'm sorry to seem lazy, but has anyone here had a _bad_ experience with any Yamakasi? I'm considering jumping on one of these babies.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> that is the policy for ALL A- panels - it is the industry standard that they are quoting you. A grade panels are 3 dead or stuck anywhere on the screen, but have a higher rate of perfect pixel - 70%+ compared to 40-50% for A- panels.


I have no idea what you are trying to tell me, A- panels can have up to *15* dead/stuck pixels and that is industry standard , I don't think so some how, industry standard would be up to *5* dead/stuck pixels ?

(BCC lists only the 2703 as having up to 15 dead pixels, I sent him a question via eBay asking is it a typo, he said it was not a typo)



I know you have most likely read the post wrong









Von: wd_40
An: bigclothcraft
Betreff: Sonstige: wd_40 hat eine Nachricht zu New Tempered Glass 27" Yamakasi Catleap 2703 LED IPS 2560x1440 WQHD Monitor gesendet.
Sendedatum: 19.07.12 11:45:30 MESZ

*Hallo bigclothcraft,*

Hello.

Up to 15 dead pixels, is that a typing mistake ?
Before with other monitors it was up to 5 dead pixels.

Thank you

- wd_40

*Hallo wd_40,*

Hello
In this monitor,
according to our dule (I read rule), accepted dae(I read dead) pixel is up to 15pcs.
Thanks

- bigclothcraft


----------



## The-Beast

Been looking at them for a while, picked one up off of Green Sum on the 8th. Delivered on the 13th, zero defect (just ordered a plain q270). Removing the stand was a chore.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heff04*
> 
> I finally pulled the trigger and bought one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I went with the newer 2703 from Bigclothcraft. Can't wait to get it! So worried that I'll get a dud. I'm so ready to join the club


Ha! Same here. I placed my order on Sunday and its Tuesday now, so I'm hoping to get it tomorrow! All I can think of is, what if if doesn't work, how many dead pixels will i get, will there be dead bug carcasses squished between the monitor, swear to god I think I will start losing sleep over this hahaha!!


----------



## Scorpion49

Can anyone tell me if there is a better DVI cable than the monoprice 24awg? My monitor seems to be SUPER picky on the cable, I have 4 dual link cables here and I have 4 varying levels of artifacts and dots with each. The best result is with the crap 3' cable they sent with the screen. I'm about to order both a 6' 24awg dual link and a DP to DVI.


----------



## wkstar

For Everyone Looking for Good Cables
http://www.monstercable.com/outletstore/linelist.asp#132704
Scroll Down


----------



## Noupoi

I've got a Catleap on the way now, and have been looking at stands.

Being in the UK, the monoprice ones out out of the question, as shipping seems to be $40-50, which is more than the stand itself. The only stand that I've found is the Arctic Z1 stand, which is rather pricey. Can anyone suggest alternatives for someone in the UK?


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> For Everyone Looking for Good Cables


I have a monster DVI cable just like that, I just bought it locally a few minutes ago and it works for crap with this screen. Its almost a solid green artifact with that. Also, the one they are selling is apparently a DVI-I cable even though it is advertised as a DVI-D.

EDIT: just in case they haven't been posted before, I just took apart my white SE looking for any loose wires to cause the green dots issue so here are the internals. Seems different than the 2B/2C listed in post 1.
EDIT 2: THe green dots is my wonderful HD7970 DCII Top having a conniption about having to do dual-link DVI. Got a DP to DVI cable on the way that should solve the issue. My screen is perfect though, no backlight bleed or dead pixels at all.


----------



## AcidNfection

Hey, quick question for those of you who have received your Catleap via DHL. BCC sent me a tracking number but it doesn't bring up anything at ebay or DHL site. But the monitor shipped 2 days ago, and was wondering if any of you have ran into this similar situation. Thanks!!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Hey, quick question for those of you who have received your Catleap via DHL. BCC sent me a tracking number but it doesn't bring up anything at ebay or DHL site. But the monitor shipped 2 days ago, and was wondering if any of you have ran into this similar situation. Thanks!!


Mine worked fine when I copied it into google, like "dhl 2141341234". If its not coming up on their site it may not be updated yet.


----------



## MusaedQ8

Hello
add me








I Just got my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Perfect Pixel from green-sum

Zero dead pixel

declare as $260, paid only 7$ for customs ! I''m From Kuwait
Computer monitors are exempt from customs in my country
Only paid for customs clearance

Here is the pic's







DSLR White balance











I love it


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Hey, quick question for those of you who have received your Catleap via DHL. BCC sent me a tracking number but it doesn't bring up anything at ebay or DHL site. But the monitor shipped 2 days ago, and was wondering if any of you have ran into this similar situation. Thanks!!


If it doesn't come up on the website(s) then it hasn't been shipped according to BCC. They say the tracking no. is given when they print out the invoice. My 2nd monitor is suffering the same fate. More than a week now since I clicked purchase.







On the contrast, my 1st one was shipped straight away within a day. Probably lots of orders at the same time.


----------



## YamiPrem

I'm in for a multi monitor, so it's a tie between the Catleap Q270 Multi or Q271. Q271 is £20 more expensive - I'm in UK - but has better stand I think, and in whole looks a bit more nicer.

Opinions?


----------



## AcidNfection

Argh! That sucks lol. I'm trying to be patient, but it's not a very strong quality in me Hopefully everything happens soon! And hopefully it means we will both get a great monitor with no defects!! hahaha:wheee:


----------



## 2ted

I ordered the 2703 last Friday on the 10th from dream seller. He contacted me that the it will be shipped on the 17th because of summer vacations and holidays in Korea and apologized for the delays.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> I ordered the 2703 last Friday on the 10th from dream seller. He contacted me that the it will be shipped on the 17th because of summer vacations and holidays in Korea and apologized for the delays.


Yea they have a ton of holidays over there, I'm jealous. There was a holiday just after mine was shipped too.


----------



## Brokenstorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> I ordered the 2703 last Friday on the 10th from dream seller. He contacted me that the it will be shipped on the 17th because of summer vacations and holidays in Korea and apologized for the delays.


Well I guess that's why I haven't received a reply in over 48h.
I just wish it will get here before the 25th.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brokenstorm*
> 
> Well I guess that's why I haven't received a reply in over 48h.
> I just wish it will get here before the 25th.


I got stuck in one of those holiday periods with dream-seller as well. He's out of the office right now (I messaged him last night about receiving my screen and got an automated reply) but once he did ship it only took 3 days to get to me. It left there on friday and was at my door on monday morning.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

I really want a 2703 but I can't stand dead pixels. Can anyone that has bought a 2703 chime in? I've been hearing good raves about green-sum and will likely honor them with my business, but I don't really feel it is justified to pay a premium just to ensure my monitor has no dead pixels; IMO dead pixels are a factory defect and the customer should not have to pay extra just to make sure their monitor doesn't have dead pixels. Their listings all say they do an inspection before shipping; how is it any different to just make sure I get one with no dead pixels at all? I'd even be getting the 3 year warranty for it.

All that said, I think I might wait a little while. I believe other IPS manufacturers will be forced to lower their prices soon and it'll only benefit the consumers.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I really want a 2703 but I can't stand dead pixels. Can anyone that has bought a 2703 chime in? I've been hearing good raves about green-sum and will likely honor them with my business, but I don't really feel it is justified to pay a premium just to ensure my monitor has no dead pixels; IMO dead pixels are a factory defect and the customer should not have to pay extra just to make sure their monitor doesn't have dead pixels. Their listings all say they do an inspection before shipping; how is it any different to just make sure I get one with no dead pixels at all? I'd even be getting the 3 year warranty for it.
> All that said, I think I might wait a little while. I believe other IPS manufacturers will be forced to lower their prices soon and it'll only benefit the consumers.


The dead pixel scam doesn't actually mean you won't get any dead pixels. You have the same chance if you bought one that didn't say pixel perfect.

I bought mine from dcsamsungmall and other than having to reconnect a few inside cords that came loose, there's no dead pixels and minimal backlight bleeding. Did not pay extra for pixel perfect ones.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> The dead pixel scam doesn't actually mean you won't get any dead pixels. You have the same chance if you bought one that didn't say pixel perfect.


That has not been proved. Nnless you are a person who works for the company we cant be sure if its a scam or not.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I really want a 2703 but I can't stand dead pixels. Can anyone that has bought a 2703 chime in? I've been hearing good raves about green-sum and will likely honor them with my business, but I don't really feel it is justified to pay a premium just to ensure my monitor has no dead pixels; IMO dead pixels are a factory defect and the customer should not have to pay extra just to make sure their monitor doesn't have dead pixels. Their listings all say they do an inspection before shipping; how is it any different to just make sure I get one with no dead pixels at all? I'd even be getting the 3 year warranty for it.
> All that said, I think I might wait a little while. I believe other IPS manufacturers will be forced to lower their prices soon and it'll only benefit the consumers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The dead pixel scam doesn't actually mean you won't get any dead pixels. You have the same chance if you bought one that didn't say pixel perfect.
> 
> I bought mine from dcsamsungmall and other than having to reconnect a few inside cords that came loose, there's no dead pixels and minimal backlight bleeding. Did not pay extra for pixel perfect ones.
Click to expand...

I don't see how it's a scam. They better damn well be sure your monitor has no dead pixels at all before shipping it out to you. Selling your product at a premium price for being flawless, to then deliver a product with defective pixels would be false advertising if they do not replace it. Korea recently turned up their penalties for false advertising, I don't think a seller like green-sum, with a great reputation, would risk customers reporting them to Korean government.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I don't see how it's a scam. They better damn well be sure your monitor has no dead pixels at all before shipping it out to you. Selling your product at a premium price for being flawless, to then deliver a product with defective pixels would be false advertising if they do not replace it. Korea recently turned up their penalties for false advertising, I don't think a seller like green-sum, with a great reputation, would risk customers reporting them to Korean government.


Pixel perfect from day one has been a hit and miss affair. Some people have definitely been scammed out of their $60 or so by all companies. There have been reports over the last six months of dead pixels on supposedly checked monitors from all the major sellers. Buyer beware with the pixel check since there are times when these monitors are drop shipped from Witech and the seller never sees the box.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I'm sorry to seem lazy, but has anyone here had a _bad_ experience with any Yamakasi? I'm considering jumping on one of these babies.


There is about a 10-15% "bad" experience rate at this point. Now that may mean dead pixels, dead power bricks, DOAs, loose wiring - you name it that is what I am including in that percentage. Many of the issues can be "self-addressed" meaning open her up and fix it or buy another cheap brick off ebay.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I really want a 2703 but I can't stand dead pixels. Can anyone that has bought a 2703 chime in? I've been hearing good raves about green-sum and will likely honor them with my business, but I don't really feel it is justified to pay a premium just to ensure my monitor has no dead pixels; IMO dead pixels are a factory defect and the customer should not have to pay extra just to make sure their monitor doesn't have dead pixels. Their listings all say they do an inspection before shipping; how is it any different to just make sure I get one with no dead pixels at all? I'd even be getting the 3 year warranty for it.
> All that said, I think I might wait a little while. I believe other IPS manufacturers will be forced to lower their prices soon and it'll only benefit the consumers.


The industry standard for grade A- panels is up to 15 dead/stuck/bright pixels in the various locations. The percentage of perfect panels that are made from one sheet under a grade A- is about 50/50 (actually a little less - closer to 40/60 - 40% perfect 60% flawed). Grade A panels have those numbers drop (or increase - glass half full?) considerably to 70/30 with 70% perfect and 30% to have no more than 3:3:5 dead:bright:stuck. That is a HUGE difference IMO. Grade A+ are 100% with no defects for the stated warranty period.

Sorry my quotes are out of order - but the info is all there!


----------



## Degree

Just wanted to pop in and let you guys know that the cat leap I've had since June is still 100%


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> buy another cheap brick off ebay.


I bought a new brick off eBay, mine would get hot and become intermittent after a while. Used the search terms off the FAQ, found the only shop selling that number, made sure the connector polarity was correct and paid less than $24 shipped. It runs a lot cooler than the stock brick, but has a non-standard power cord connection on the brick end. But that isn't an issue, really, brick works great.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Sorry to be a pest guys. Has anyone here bought a Yamakasi from Amazon? I see a few Q270s for $350 with the speakers, but I don't want it with the speakers. All the sellers I find for it are recent new sellers, so they have no feedback.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> That has not been proved. Nnless you are a person who works for the company we cant be sure if its a scam or not.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I don't see how it's a scam. They better damn well be sure your monitor has no dead pixels at all before shipping it out to you. Selling your product at a premium price for being flawless, to then deliver a product with defective pixels would be false advertising if they do not replace it. Korea recently turned up their penalties for false advertising, I don't think a seller like green-sum, with a great reputation, would risk customers reporting them to Korean government.


It's a scam because their version of pixel perfect means you still could have a dead pixel. It has been proven if you read back in this thread there are people with pixel perfect orders that had dead pixels or other problems. It is shown on other websites as well.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

The deal with pixel perfect all comes down to whether you trust those guys to actually do the check. You can get pixel perfect A- panels - about 1:2 in the wild - but to pay someone to check IMO is risky since too many people have reported issues even after buying this "service."

Pixel perfect checking out of Korea is definitely filed under "Buyer Beware!"


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> The deal with pixel perfect all comes down to whether you trust those guys to actually do the check. You can get pixel perfect A- panels - about 1:2 in the wild - but to pay someone to check IMO is risky since too many people have reported issues even after buying this "service."
> 
> Pixel perfect checking out of Korea is definitely filed under "Buyer Beware!"


Lol, I'll probably pass on it then. I really want to buy one, but was hoping to find one from a reputable Amazon seller so I can put it on my Amazon card. I'll probably just wait for my car to sell and after I buy my new one, I'll have some cash left for the monitor.

Green-sum, if you're reading this: if you can maybe work with me and do your best to ship me one of your amazing monitors with no dead pixels, I'd definitely buy.







It would also be amazing if you have a store on Amazon so I can finance it on my card there.


----------



## V1ZION

I have had my catleap for about 24 hours and all I can say is WOW. This is an amazing display, the colors pop and the blacks look black. Coming from a 21' 1650x1050 this is quite the upgrade. I have no dead pixles from what I can see, and the back light bleeding is very minimal it doesn't affect me what so ever. Also the stand is not as bad as everyone makes out to seem, don't get me wrong it's not the best quality stand but it's no horrble, but for 300$ shipped I can't complain. I ordered it from green-sum and it got here in 2 days not including the weekend, but because of DHL i had to wait an extra day because apparently they don't know how to deliver a package to a certian location







other then that its was a fantastic buy. The only thing that sucks is that It pushes my 7870 to the roof compared to my old screen


----------



## Nulled

Just placed an order for the Q270 from Green-Sum.

I live in Toronto, Canada so we'll see how long the shipping delay(s) are...


----------



## General123

Going to buy mine in a few more days


----------



## AcidNfection

UPDATE: Here it is Wednesday and nothing when I came home from work







I even emailed BCC 2 days ago, and have not received a response back yet. Reading the posts above, I'm curious if I fell into the Korean holiday rut. I'm just really hoping to have it before this weekend also. But one thing that worries me is this email I got from BCC telling me it HAS shipped, but still nothing under tracking except "No results found" Here is the email I received:

Dear Ken Dunkin

Yours are shipped now.
Shipping service are 2 Types
(You can check Shipping Service option in ebay)

1)Economy shipping service.
It normally takes some business days to arrive as described.
(Business day don't include Saturday, Sunday and Holiday)

USA, U.K & Canada 8~20 Business days
Other Europe & AU 8~25 Business days
Russia & South America 12~40 Business days
Shipping service is Economy Shipping Service From Korea.
Sometimes, parcel may be delayed due to weather, jammed parcel and situation of local post office.

2)Express shipping service.
We ship Express Shipping service about some items.

It normally takes some business days to arrive as described.
(Business day don't include Saturday, Sunday and Holiday)

USA, U.K & Canada 2~5 Business days
Other Europe & AU 2~5 Business days
Russia & South America 2~10 Business days
Sometimes, parcel may be delayed due to custom inspection.

Our Company hope that you will receive item as sson as possible.
Any Questions are welcome.

Pleasure of buy is also mine.
Our company try our best to satisfy with buyer.
Thanks

From
General Manager
Martin

From what I understand, I'm supposed to pick my shipping option from ebay? Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.









Edit: Finally got a response from BCC tonight, and the above posts were correct, they had a holiday. He was also saying that he needs 1-3 days to test the monitor, and will ship out next week. I hope they do test it, then it will be worth the wait in gold! Will post pics once it arrives DHL!


----------



## Cheese Cake

I just ordered mine from green-sum off eBay. Hope I don't get it broken or a defect @[email protected]


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Jeez.. I haven't been on this thread since we first started it. LOL.


So has anyone found a triple monitor stand for the Q270 yet? I am about to buy 2 more but I want to have a stand ready before I screw myself due to their crappy stands on them.
Also are the Q270s the same and same price or has that changed?
Are there any new or better versions now?
One last question I promise! Can I use a D-DVI to HDMI convert to get eye-finity and will it work? I want to confirm this before buying 2 more. Thanks all!


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Jeez.. I haven't been on this thread since we first started it. LOL.
> 
> So has anyone found a triple monitor stand for the Q270 yet? I am about to buy 2 more but I want to have a stand ready before I screw myself due to their crappy stands on them.
> Also are the Q270s the same and same price or has that changed?
> Are there any new or better versions now?
> One last question I promise! Can I use a D-DVI to HDMI convert to get eye-finity and will it work? I want to confirm this before buying 2 more. Thanks all!


There is now the Yamakasi 2703, which is the exact same panel as the Catleap, but the casing is a bit nicer IMO, and there's no disassembly required to get to the VESA mounts. For Catleap, there's just the SE (No Speakers), Non-SE, and tempered glass. There's obviously different combinations of the features and perfect pixel is available. Couldn't help ya with the other 2 questions.


----------



## General123

Can someone tell the difference between a Catleap Q270 and a Catleap 2703 ? Or is it the same thing, I am pretty sure it is the same thing but I want to double check.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Jeez.. I haven't been on this thread since we first started it. LOL.
> 
> So has anyone found a triple monitor stand for the Q270 yet? I am about to buy 2 more but I want to have a stand ready before I screw myself due to their crappy stands on them.
> Also are the Q270s the same and same price or has that changed?
> Are there any new or better versions now?
> One last question I promise! Can I use a D-DVI to HDMI convert to get eye-finity and will it work? I want to confirm this before buying 2 more. Thanks all!


Howdy Ninja, I'll help out the best I can to help answer your questions:

1. Here is a link for a triple monitor stand, it's a bit spendy, but its good quality from what I hear. http://www.amazon.com/Ergotech-Triple-Stand-Telescopic-100-D16-B03-TW/dp/B007BD0MPM/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics.

2. The good news here is that the Q270's have dropped a bit in price, from when they first came out. I just picked one up 3 days ago and waiting for delivery and only paid $285.00 from BCC.

3. As far as I can tell there are no newer versions out. Still the same ones, just a little cheaper.

4. If I understand this question correctly, there are no active adapters for DSP/mini-DSP to HDMI. For that case you'll have to go: Card (DSP/mini-DSP)

>DSP/mini-DSP to VGA/DVI-D "ACTIVE" adapter or dongle---->DVI-D to HDMI

>Monitor (HDMI).

Check out this link I found for you. It should provide you with the answers you need, and suggest a way for you to achieve what your wanting to do!! Best of luck to you man!!

http://www.sapphireforum.com/showthread.php?28155-EWP-Guide-3-or-More-Monitors-Eyefinity-Setups-and-You!!


----------



## Absolute1l

Just received my Catleap today! Figured I'd join the forums just to post and discuss.

Ordered from G-S on ebay Friday night. Arrived Wednesday afternoon west coast. Was delivered via DHL. 2nd monitor in 2 weeks. My roomy got one about 1.5 weeks ago, so then I got one. He got a slightly different version - the one with a shorter black stand. So I'm in a unique position to actually compare two different versions of this monitor directly.

First look:

-Box came undamaged, all wrapped up like new aside from obvious long shipping. Before turning on - everything appears in excellent condition.
-Set up the monitor with my Radeon 6950 (ghetto unlocked to 6970) - Had to use the DVI-D port obviously.
-Got a blinking green light at first but fixed this by making sure the cable was plugged in securely. As soon as the cable becomes a little detached the power green led will blink and it will go black. No issue though.
-Got it all setup and running in 1440p. My GPU auto set the resolution before Windows even started.

Careful examination of the screen:

-Colors are gorgeous. What prompted me to buy this screen in the first place. Set several full screen solid colors and most are uniform all around.... But here's where some major flaws come in.
X-There's a weird 1inch band on the bottom of the display. It's not very apparent, but noticeable on a solid color background. It's hard to explain. Almost like there is some extra pressure from some internal component pressing on the bottom 1" or so of the LCD screen itself. I really cannot notice it unless it's set to a solid color and I'm looking at the bottom of the screen. Not a deal breaker but I'm a little concerned.
X-When the screen is set to dark grey or all black, it looks BAD. I mean really bad.... There is some horrid back-light bleed. I actually cannot set a background picture with dark edges because the light bleed is horrendous. And it's not even one spot, its an entire corner, an entire edge and part of another corner. It's like someone is shining a flashlight on the inside edge of the screen. Extremely unhappy about this. This cannot possibly be A-anything. My last 2 cheapo monitors were far superior in this regard.
-On the flip side... There are no dead pixels that I can find.
-When playing a game full-screen i can only notice the back-light bleed if it's dark on the edges... Still rather disappointing.

So far, I can see why these panels are so cheap. I'm trading extreme quality on one end for extreme crap on the other. Black levels are no better than my previous monitors - even without the light bleed issue. The color quality and resolution are very impressive, but are severely diminished by the fact that I must avoid anything with dark edges to keep the uniform quality. This is a very mixed bag for me right now. I actually have a 24" VA monitor. The viewing angle is really really bad on it, but the black levels and back-light are extremely good. So far for gaming I feel like the resolution is the only benefit over my VA panel. Also the VA has a lower response time - so there is that as well.. I've only been able to examine my catleap for a few hours though...

I feel extremely unlucky with my panel to be honest. If the back-light issue wasn't there, I'd be a very happy camper about this purchase. I have read so many reviews and virtually none have such bad back-light issues. I would gladly trade the back-light bleed for 5 or even 10 dead pixels. That many deal pixels out of millions is almost nothing when compared to a highly visible bright light lighting up the corners/edges of the screen. I would be sending this back for a replacement if it didn't cost $150 to chip it...

My next step is trying to figure out if there is a way to fix the back light problem. Perhaps taking apart the bezel and adjusting placement and screw tension? Does anyone know what causes back-light bleed? I feel like it's something that's related to construction of materials rather than the screen itself. Any help with this would be appreciated!


----------



## General123

Welcome to OCN first of all! And I have read that taking the bezel apart and taking some screws out and then putting the bezel back on can _possibly_ help. Cant hurt though? Also very nice and informative post, thank you!


----------



## PTCB

Anyone ordering from BCC, here's the respond I got:

Hello~
Im sorry for late shipment.
We have lots order for testing the monitors.
And we also cannot easily pass untested monitor.
I think yours will be ship next week.
Im sorry for delay again...
Have a great day!

Best Regards
Thanks

- bigclothcraft

Taken into account the holiday overthere, delay is expected.


----------



## YamiPrem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Absolute1l*
> 
> Just received my Catleap today! Figured I'd join the forums just to post and discuss.
> Ordered from G-S on ebay Friday night.
> ...
> Any help with this would be appreciated!


Oh man, I was going to order one but your post scared me a little...

Can I ask which model it is?


----------



## Celinna

hello
i'm new here

want to describe my experience from green-sum over ebay.

Ordered my Catleap Q270 with perfect pixel at 08/06 , got it 1 week later because DHL sucks to send it fast to germany but its okay for me got it on Monday.

Package was all fine, in good shape and condition

Now i pluged in all cables and tested this fantastic monitor, i had luck or none? buyed with perfect pixel and had none so it was as i expected when i pay 50€ more. Have also no Blacklight bleeding or minimal at 5zoll distance

I'm very satisfied with this buy and must say its worth the price, comparable monitors costs double the price here in germany.

So overall i am very happy









P.S. i can all catleap buyers recommend the color profile from the 1page(catleap d-65). its fantastic the colors are better then the standard. Tested it in Dota2 and other games. But its only worked when i use the "Load catleap d-65" file.


----------



## Felics

Thank you for posting a comment about the colour profiles i have been searching for the best way to calibrate it and if i can just use them it will save me a lot of money buying a calibrator like the spyder4pro ect. congrats on getting 1 with no backlight bleed that is my main concern now i am waiting for mine to arrive. and don't complain about 1 week some people have waited much longer then that!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Anyone ordering from BCC, here's the respond I got:
> 
> Hello~
> Im sorry for late shipment.
> We have lots order for testing the monitors.
> And we also cannot easily pass untested monitor.
> I think yours will be ship next week.
> Im sorry for delay again...
> Have a great day!
> 
> Best Regards
> Thanks
> 
> - bigclothcraft
> 
> Taken into account the holiday overthere, delay is expected.


What holiday?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YamiPrem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Absolute1l*
> 
> Just received my Catleap today! Figured I'd join the forums just to post and discuss.
> Ordered from G-S on ebay Friday night.
> ...
> Any help with this would be appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> Oh man, I was going to order one but your post scared me a little...
> 
> Can I ask which model it is?
Click to expand...

Never had a problem with my Q270 perfect pixel. Stand is wobbly if touched but whatever. I don't touch the stand or monitor.

@everyone

So has anyone been successful in getting eyefinity to work or should I order on model with hdmi port? My 7970 only has one
D-DVI port and I plan or order another 7970 which will yield 2. As for a third monitor I'm stumped. Anyone been successful or are the hdmi/ddvi models the same?


----------



## Nulled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Absolute1l*
> 
> Just received my Catleap today! Figured I'd join the forums just to post and discuss.
> Ordered from G-S on ebay Friday night. Arrived Wednesday afternoon west coast. Was delivered via DHL. 2nd monitor in 2 weeks. My roomy got one about 1.5 weeks ago, so then I got one. He got a slightly different version - the one with a shorter black stand. So I'm in a unique position to actually compare two different versions of this monitor directly.
> First look:
> -Box came undamaged, all wrapped up like new aside from obvious long shipping. Before turning on - everything appears in excellent condition.
> -Set up the monitor with my Radeon 6950 (ghetto unlocked to 6970) - Had to use the DVI-D port obviously.
> -Got a blinking green light at first but fixed this by making sure the cable was plugged in securely. As soon as the cable becomes a little detached the power green led will blink and it will go black. No issue though.
> -Got it all setup and running in 1440p. My GPU auto set the resolution before Windows even started.
> Careful examination of the screen:
> -Colors are gorgeous. What prompted me to buy this screen in the first place. Set several full screen solid colors and most are uniform all around.... But here's where some major flaws come in.
> X-There's a weird 1inch band on the bottom of the display. It's not very apparent, but noticeable on a solid color background. It's hard to explain. Almost like there is some extra pressure from some internal component pressing on the bottom 1" or so of the LCD screen itself. I really cannot notice it unless it's set to a solid color and I'm looking at the bottom of the screen. Not a deal breaker but I'm a little concerned.
> X-When the screen is set to dark grey or all black, it looks BAD. I mean really bad.... There is some horrid back-light bleed. I actually cannot set a background picture with dark edges because the light bleed is horrendous. And it's not even one spot, its an entire corner, an entire edge and part of another corner. It's like someone is shining a flashlight on the inside edge of the screen. Extremely unhappy about this. This cannot possibly be A-anything. My last 2 cheapo monitors were far superior in this regard.
> -On the flip side... There are no dead pixels that I can find.
> -When playing a game full-screen i can only notice the back-light bleed if it's dark on the edges... Still rather disappointing.
> So far, I can see why these panels are so cheap. I'm trading extreme quality on one end for extreme crap on the other. Black levels are no better than my previous monitors - even without the light bleed issue. The color quality and resolution are very impressive, but are severely diminished by the fact that I must avoid anything with dark edges to keep the uniform quality. This is a very mixed bag for me right now. I actually have a 24" VA monitor. The viewing angle is really really bad on it, but the black levels and back-light are extremely good. So far for gaming I feel like the resolution is the only benefit over my VA panel. Also the VA has a lower response time - so there is that as well.. I've only been able to examine my catleap for a few hours though...
> I feel extremely unlucky with my panel to be honest. If the back-light issue wasn't there, I'd be a very happy camper about this purchase. I have read so many reviews and virtually none have such bad back-light issues. I would gladly trade the back-light bleed for 5 or even 10 dead pixels. That many deal pixels out of millions is almost nothing when compared to a highly visible bright light lighting up the corners/edges of the screen. I would be sending this back for a replacement if it didn't cost $150 to chip it...
> My next step is trying to figure out if there is a way to fix the back light problem. Perhaps taking apart the bezel and adjusting placement and screw tension? Does anyone know what causes back-light bleed? I feel like it's something that's related to construction of materials rather than the screen itself. Any help with this would be appreciated!


Perhaps you could take a picture or video and show us this light bleeding?


----------



## Brokenstorm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So has anyone been successful in getting eyefinity to work or should I order on model with hdmi port? My 7970 only has one
> D-DVI port and *I plan or order another 7970 which will yield 2*. As for a third monitor I'm stumped. Anyone been successful or are the hdmi/ddvi models the same?


You can only use 1 card for output in eyefinity


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Brokenstorm*
> 
> You can only use 1 card for output in eyefinity


He means to use the one with two dvi outputs as his primary card and use an HDMI or displayport adapter for the third monitor


----------



## YamiPrem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What holiday?
> Never had a problem with my Q270 perfect pixel. Stand is wobbly if touched but whatever. I don't touch the stand or monitor.
> @everyone
> So has anyone been successful in getting eyefinity to work or should I order on model with hdmi port? My 7970 only has one
> D-DVI port and I plan or order another 7970 which will yield 2. As for a third monitor I'm stumped. Anyone been successful or are the hdmi/ddvi models the same?


You suggest I get one under Perfect Pixel then? I ehar it doesn't matter and it's not worth it as it's a gamble every way.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What holiday?


This
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Finally got a response from BCC tonight, and the above posts were correct, they had a holiday.


----------



## Absolute1l

Another new problem with my Catleap.....

Just got it yesterday and suddenly I've got a new big concern.

Randomly the screen just goes black, the red led power light goes on very briefly, and then the monitor turns back on. The screen may go black again once to a few more times. Then the screen comes back on and stays on. Immediately after this happens I notice that the screen flickers in places. That lasts about 30 seconds to a minute, then it's back to normal with no flicker and no black screen... It's hard to explain the flicker, and it appears to only be on about 1/3rd of the total screen area. It's like each individual pixel is flickers very very fast. After it stops it all looks buttery smooth once again...

Any ideas what's going on? I've checked the power cables, and the DVI-D cable. They are all in very snug. I haven't touched the monitor since I plugged it in yesterday. Could it be loose internal connections or something? Seems that the monitor kind of just loses power briefly several times over 5-10 seconds. Perhaps the power cube is faulty or something?

I'm really enjoying the buttery smooth beautiful colors! However, I wonder if I should return this as faulty and get a new one. After 14 days I'm on my own, and don't want to end up with a screen that is just completely dead.

Anyone else with this issue?


----------



## YamiPrem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Absolute1l*
> 
> Another new problem with my Catleap.....
> Just got it yesterday and suddenly I've got a new big concern.
> Randomly the screen just goes black, the red led power light goes on very briefly, and then the monitor turns back on. The screen may go black again once to a few more times. Then the screen comes back on and stays on. Immediately after this happens I notice that the screen flickers in places. That lasts about 30 seconds to a minute, then it's back to normal with no flicker and no black screen... It's hard to explain the flicker, and it appears to only be on about 1/3rd of the total screen area. It's like each individual pixel is flickers very very fast. After it stops it all looks buttery smooth once again...
> Any ideas what's going on? I've checked the power cables, and the DVI-D cable. They are all in very snug. I haven't touched the monitor since I plugged it in yesterday. Could it be loose internal connections or something? Seems that the monitor kind of just loses power briefly several times over 5-10 seconds. Perhaps the power cube is faulty or something?
> I'm really enjoying the buttery smooth beautiful colors! However, I wonder if I should return this as faulty and get a new one. After 14 days I'm on my own, and don't want to end up with a screen that is just completely dead.
> Anyone else with this issue?


What graphics card you using?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Has anyone here gotten the 2703 "gaming" edition that can give their opinion on it? I found one for pretty cheap and I'm considering getting it. Also, did anyone here that bought on eBay get the extra 3 year warranty with Squaretrade that's ~$50? Thinking I should go for that.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Has anyone here gotten the 2703 "gaming" edition that can give their opinion on it? I found one for pretty cheap and I'm considering getting it. Also, did anyone here that bought on eBay get the extra 3 year warranty with Squaretrade that's ~$50? Thinking I should go for that.


I haven't saw that one yet!








Going to check it out when I get home


----------



## Absolute1l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YamiPrem*
> 
> What graphics card you using?


I'm using a Radeon 6950


----------



## Absolute1l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YamiPrem*
> 
> Oh man, I was going to order one but your post scared me a little...
> Can I ask which model it is?


I got the Catleap Q270 with one input - DVI-D. My roomy got one too though and his doesn't seem to have any problems at all. He got the other version of the Yamakasi. One with the black stand instead of clear/chrome.


----------



## Nulled

Green-sum gave me to tracking number but it isn't working as of yet.

also, an hour after I bought the monitor he increased the price by 50$...damn did I buy at the right time or what. Now it feels like i'm obligated to buy a stand for 50$ from that potential savings i just encountered.


----------



## Degree

Going to buy my second from bcc when I get home








Need another multitasking while I game


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> Green-sum gave me to tracking number but it isn't working as of yet.
> also, an hour after I bought the monitor he increased the price by 50$...damn did I buy at the right time or what. Now it feels like i'm obligated to buy a stand for 50$ from that potential savings i just encountered.


Usually the tracking will pop up after 3 days because DHL in Asia is crazy loaded, not as bad now, but when it's close to holidays, better forget about the package until 1-3 months









Also I didn't buy a stand for mine because It doesn't wobble when I type so it doesn't bother me like it does to others


----------



## YamiPrem

Ordered the Q271 after much thought.

Hope green-sum serves me well.


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> I ordered the 2703 last Friday on the 10th from dream seller. He contacted me that the it will be shipped on the 17th because of summer vacations and holidays in Korea and apologized for the delays.


That's what I was told, as well. Ordered a 2703 from dream-seller on the 10th.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Dream-seller seems to be the more appealing one to order from as far as dead pixels goes. More than just 1 dead pixel in the center and it's considered defective. More than 5 pixels anywhere else on the screen and it's considered defective. Way to back the manufacturer's quality.









Saying up to 15 dead pixels is "normal" is basically saying "yea it's typical for them to have that many dead pixels, they're not THAT high quality."
Saying they consider defective as anything more than 5 dead pixels or even just 2 in the center screams "this is quality, it's not supposed to have more than 5 dead pixels."


----------



## 2ted

dream seller said the panel can be shipped out on the 17th which is tomorrow. Based on what others are saying about the shipping, I could get it around 20th on Monday. I hope that is the case. I just finished collecting all my parts for my new rig.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Brokenstorm*
> 
> You can only use 1 card for output in eyefinity
> 
> 
> 
> He means to use the one with two dvi outputs as his primary card and use an HDMI or displayport adapter for the third monitor
Click to expand...

Correct. I will probably buy another 7970 and CF it soon. Waiting on more pieces to my PC as the months roll by. I am wondering if anyone has had luck with an D-DVI to HDMI or DP connection. I say this because the 7970s require HDMI or DP to view in 4096x2160 per monitor. Now I am not sure how this will work with an Eyefinity setup using 2 DVI and one other.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YamiPrem*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What holiday?
> Never had a problem with my Q270 perfect pixel. Stand is wobbly if touched but whatever. I don't touch the stand or monitor.
> @everyone
> So has anyone been successful in getting eyefinity to work or should I order on model with hdmi port? My 7970 only has one
> D-DVI port and I plan or order another 7970 which will yield 2. As for a third monitor I'm stumped. Anyone been successful or are the hdmi/ddvi models the same?
> 
> 
> 
> You suggest I get one under Perfect Pixel then? I ehar it doesn't matter and it's not worth it as it's a gamble every way.
Click to expand...

I got the perfect pixel and the three year warranty w/ monitor for about 450 tops. I figure it is still cheaper than a Dell Ultrasharp, has a warranty like most monitors (3 years) and perfect pixel is a guarantee on some sellers. Or you spend 350 bucks on a monitor with dead pixels and light bleeding that breaks 3 months later and you're not out 350 bucks.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What holiday?
> 
> 
> 
> This
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Finally got a response from BCC tonight, and the above posts were correct, they had a holiday.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

What holiday? Korean holiday or other?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Has anyone here gotten the 2703 "gaming" edition that can give their opinion on it? I found one for pretty cheap and I'm considering getting it. Also, did anyone here that bought on eBay get the extra 3 year warranty with Squaretrade that's ~$50? Thinking I should go for that.


I did. Worth it imo. Breaks on day 15.. WHOOPS! 350 bucks *flush*.


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Correct. I will probably buy another 7970 and CF it soon. Waiting on more pieces to my PC as the months roll by. I am wondering if anyone has had luck with an D-DVI to HDMI or DP connection. I say this because the 7970s require HDMI or DP to view in 4096x2160 per monitor. Now I am not sure how this will work with an Eyefinity setup using 2 DVI and one other.


I think you are very confused based upon the previous posts you made and this one. There is no way to do HDMI to DL-DVI period. No way not possible without an active adapter (which they don't make for HDMI) due to HDMI/DP both being single channel and DL-DVI being dual channel.

There are Active DP to DL-DVI adapters that use a USB power source to convert the single channel into Dual channel output(its more technical than that but for brevity's sake that is it). You can get them several places including monoprice.com but some people have issues with the adapters. Lost signal and not showing bios etc.

I don't believe there is a single 7970 with 2 DL-DVI ports on the market. If there is my apologies but as it stands you would be limited to DP to DL-DVI adapters or purchasing a Multi input variant and running 2560X1440 via HDMI-HDMI or DP-DP.

Also from the way you worded things I just want to clarify one more time that for Eyefinity displays using Crossfire ALL the monitor ports MUST be on the same card. Unlike nvidia where a set of SLI cards can use 2 DL-DVI on each card for 4 DL-DVI you are strictly limited to 1 cards outputs. (this is due to the way that CF/SLI differ but that is a lot of info you don't really need)

Hope this helps you out


----------



## YamiPrem

Is the warranty legit for us UK users?
And who would need to pay for the shipping if it does break? Them?

And I've already ordered the monitor, can I still get warranty from green-sum?


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Has anyone here gotten the 2703 "gaming" edition that can give their opinion on it? I found one for pretty cheap and I'm considering getting it. Also, did anyone here that bought on eBay get the extra 3 year warranty with Squaretrade that's ~$50? Thinking I should go for that.


Are you talking about this?


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What holiday?
> Never had a problem with my Q270 perfect pixel. Stand is wobbly if touched but whatever. I don't touch the stand or monitor.
> @everyone
> So has anyone been successful in getting eyefinity to work or should I order on model with hdmi port? My 7970 only has one
> D-DVI port and I plan or order another 7970 which will yield 2. As for a third monitor I'm stumped. Anyone been successful or are the hdmi/ddvi models the same?


Hello NinjaSushi2,

I have been successful with using three Catleaps Q270 SE with my 2x MSI Lightning 7970's. Below is the adapter you will need to covert to mini-DP:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

Which 7970 card do you have?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Imagine this with 3 monitors.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!











THINK OF THE COLORS!! THE RESOLUTION!! GORGEOUS!


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Has anyone here gotten the 2703 "gaming" edition that can give their opinion on it? I found one for pretty cheap and I'm considering getting it. Also, did anyone here that bought on eBay get the extra 3 year warranty with Squaretrade that's ~$50? Thinking I should go for that.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you talking about this?
Click to expand...

What the heck?

I see your link as: www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/5970#post_17
But when I click on it I am taken to: www.overclock.net/t/3/hey-where-you-from/0_20#post_17


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What holiday?
> Never had a problem with my Q270 perfect pixel. Stand is wobbly if touched but whatever. I don't touch the stand or monitor.
> @everyone
> So has anyone been successful in getting eyefinity to work or should I order on model with hdmi port? My 7970 only has one
> D-DVI port and I plan or order another 7970 which will yield 2. As for a third monitor I'm stumped. Anyone been successful or are the hdmi/ddvi models the same?
> 
> 
> 
> Hello NinjaSushi2,
> 
> I have been successful with using three Catleaps Q270 SE with my 2x MSI Lightning 7970's. Below is the adapter you will need to covert to mini-DP:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
> 
> Which 7970 card do you have?
Click to expand...

I have one XFX 7970 BE DD. I will be buying another buy not sure on GHz addition or not and I know I won't need a DD since I am under water now. Probably go BE GHz considering the GHz is only 10 bucks more for +50 stock core clock.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> What the heck?
> I see your link as: www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/5970#post_17
> But when I click on it I am taken to: www.overclock.net/t/3/hey-where-you-from/0_20#post_17


Lol, that's odd. At least you can go to my post though.

The more accurate URL would be http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/5970#post_17693554.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> What the heck?
> I see your link as: www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/5970#post_17
> But when I click on it I am taken to: www.overclock.net/t/3/hey-where-you-from/0_20#post_17
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, that's odd. At least you can go to my post though.
> 
> The more accurate URL would be http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/5970#post_17693554.
Click to expand...

I actually can't find the one you were trying to link me to, can you quote yourself? Ninjad.

Yes, that's the one.







I'm too finnicky about monitor issues, so I think I have to hold off on buying one of these. That bleed is too much for me.

Would be great if you can post a picture of BF3 or something. Since BF3 is what I do most on my PC at home, if the bleeding is tolerable I might still consider.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> What the heck?
> I see your link as: www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/5970#post_17
> But when I click on it I am taken to: www.overclock.net/t/3/hey-where-you-from/0_20#post_17
> 
> 
> 
> Lol, that's odd. At least you can go to my post though.
> 
> The more accurate URL would be http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/5970#post_17693554.
Click to expand...

So it's the same monitor without the BS?


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Hello NinjaSushi2,
> I have been successful with using three Catleaps Q270 SE with my 2x MSI Lightning 7970's. Below is the adapter you will need to covert to mini-DP:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
> Which 7970 card do you have?


Alternate connector for cheaper!

You will need 2 of these if you plan on running all 3 monitors off of that card


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandatoucher*
> 
> Alternate connector for cheaper!
> You will need 2 of these if you plan on running all 3 monitors off of that card


I have not used these, so I cannot confirm they will work will all three monitors. I can only confirm the one I posted in the above post.

Have you tested this adapter pandatoucher?

Edit: Plus it supports 120Hz, so when overload computers releases the 120hz capable PCB sets, this adapter will support it.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I actually can't find the one you were trying to link me to, can you quote yourself? Ninjad.
> Yes, that's the one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm too finnicky about monitor issues, so I think I have to hold off on buying one of these. That bleed is too much for me.
> Would be great if you can post a picture of BF3 or something. Since BF3 is what I do most on my PC at home, if the bleeding is tolerable I might still consider.


I'll try to remember that when I get home from work today. Also, not really sure why they call it the "gamer edition."
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So it's the same monitor without the BS?


It's the same monitor with a different, but still crappy stand. And you still have to remove the back panel in order to install a third-party monitor stand. Not really that big of a deal though. Process takes about an hour or two if you're careful.

The tempered glass over it is very nice though, unless you have your computer in a place like a sunroom.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandatoucher*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Hello NinjaSushi2,
> I have been successful with using three Catleaps Q270 SE with my 2x MSI Lightning 7970's. Below is the adapter you will need to covert to mini-DP:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
> Which 7970 card do you have?
> 
> 
> 
> Alternate connector for cheaper!
> 
> You will need 2 of these if you plan on running all 3 monitors off of that card
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *pandatoucher*
> 
> Alternate connector for cheaper!
> You will need 2 of these if you plan on running all 3 monitors off of that card
> 
> 
> 
> I have not used these, so I cannot confirm they will work will all three monitors. I can only confirm the one I posted in the above post.
> 
> Have you tested this adapter pandatoucher?
Click to expand...

Doesn't matter on adapters. They all serve the same purpose. My concern was if the GPU read the monitor correctly. What resolutions are you getting? That and does anyone know of a damn triple monitor stand that supports 3x27"!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Doesn't matter on adapters. They all serve the same purpose. My concern was if the GPU read the monitor correctly. What resolutions are you getting? That and does anyone know of a damn triple monitor stand that supports 3x27"!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


Here is the monitor stand I ordered.

http://shop.easymountlcd.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Stand-Free-Standing-up-to-28-002-0020-002-0020.htm

I should have mine here by this Friday (hopefully). The cost is $95.95, plus use this coupon, AugustOnyx, when you check out for a discount.

I will be using mine in a 3x1 Portrait setup.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That and does anyone know of a damn triple monitor stand that supports 3x27"!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?


http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=triple+monitor+stand
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triple-Arched-Monitor-Stand-holds-up-3-27-inch-Monitors-Heavy-Duty-NEW-/260896067511


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> I have not used these, so I cannot confirm they will work will all three monitors. I can only confirm the one I posted in the above post.
> Have you tested this adapter pandatoucher?
> Edit: Plus it supports 120Hz, so when overload computers releases the 120hz capable PCB sets, this adapter will support it.


The 120Hz support is for 1080P though the adapter itself works just fine at 1440p but you would have to overclock the adapters to run at 120Hz at 1440p. I don't have a 120Hz capable Catleap since I canceled that order and am waiting for overlords 120hz model.

I know someone I think it was Callsignvega overclocked some of these active adapters for 120Hz but I personally have not. (think he used a higher more expensive brand of adapters too)

The adapters do a "direct" (not really direct but once again a lot of unneeded info) conversion to dual channel signal for the DL-DVI and it shows up as normal on your computer. There are some people who have occasional drops that require them to unplug and replug the adapters. I personally have not had this issue but my PC is a 24/7 pc no sleep or hibernation mode and this is where most of the issues stem from. Possibly an issue with the signal starting output before the USB port supplies power to the adapter.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandatoucher*
> 
> The 120Hz support is for 1080P though the adapter itself works just fine at 1440p but you would have to overclock the adapters to run at 120Hz at 1440p. I don't have a 120Hz capable Catleap since I canceled that order and am waiting for overlords 120hz model.
> I know someone I think it was Callsignvega overclocked some of these active adapters for 120Hz but I personally have not. (think he used a higher more expensive brand of adapters too)
> The adapters do a "direct" (not really direct but once again a lot of unneeded info) conversion to dual channel signal for the DL-DVI and it shows up as normal on your computer. There are some people who have occasional drops that require them to unplug and replug the adapters. I personally have not had this issue but my PC is a 24/7 pc no sleep or hibernation mode and this is where most of the issues stem from. Possibly an issue with the signal starting output before the USB port supplies power to the adapter.


Good to know they will work. Thank you.

Yes, I have spoke with CallSignVega, and he is the one who recommended the adapters I have. They work gear, and I have had no problems.

I thought about waiting for the Overlord models, but I am fine with changing out the PCB. I will hold off on purchasing the other 2 Catleaps, and purchase 2 Overlords for my 5x1 portrait!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Doesn't matter on adapters. They all serve the same purpose. My concern was if the GPU read the monitor correctly. What resolutions are you getting? That and does anyone know of a damn triple monitor stand that supports 3x27"!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the monitor stand I ordered.
> 
> http://shop.easymountlcd.com/Deluxe-Triple-Monitor-Stand-Free-Standing-up-to-28-002-0020-002-0020.htm
> 
> I should have mine here by this Friday (hopefully). The cost is $95.95, plus use this coupon, AugustOnyx, when you check out for a discount.
> 
> I will be using mine in a 3x1 Portrait setup.
Click to expand...

YOU'RE A GOD SEND!! I COULD KISS YOU! I seriously have been looking for a stand that does this for months now. Every stand I found fit up to 26" or required mounting in the back of a desk.

This thing sounds too good to be true except..
Quote:


> - Item does not include monitors


DAMN! .. lol jk jk
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That and does anyone know of a damn triple monitor stand that supports 3x27"!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=triple+monitor+stand
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triple-Arched-Monitor-Stand-holds-up-3-27-inch-Monitors-Heavy-Duty-NEW-/260896067511
Click to expand...

I looked but everything I found didn't fit 27". GJ though! I wanted that XFX until I saw it fit only 24" but that damn thing has cable management, USB hubs, etc.


----------



## klee6783

I got one whilel it was $320 a while ago and couldn't get it to work with my Dell 15Z







. Sold it for $360 to a local art major.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> YOU'RE A GOD SEND!! I COULD KISS YOU! I seriously have been looking for a stand that does this for months now. Every stand I found fit up to 26" or required mounting in the back of a desk.
> This thing sounds too good to be true except..
> DAMN! .. lol jk jk
> I looked but everything I found didn't fit 27". GJ though! I wanted that XFX until I saw it fit only 24" but that damn thing has cable management, USB hubs, etc.


You are welcome! Once I receive mine and setup all three monitors, I will post pics on my build log and here for the community to see. Glad I can assist you and others!


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PTCB*
> 
> Anyone ordering from BCC, here's the respond I got:
> Hello~
> Im sorry for late shipment.
> We have lots order for testing the monitors.
> And we also cannot easily pass untested monitor.
> I think yours will be ship next week.
> Im sorry for delay again...
> Have a great day!
> Best Regards
> Thanks
> - bigclothcraft
> Taken into account the holiday overthere, delay is expected.


I got the same email as you did!! lol. But the way I see it, is if he actually does test the monitor it's worth the wait. He said mine will ship next week. I'm assuming there very very busy with these.


----------



## jojoenglish85

anyone running these things with a single or crxfire 7950's? If so how do you like it?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> YOU'RE A GOD SEND!! I COULD KISS YOU! I seriously have been looking for a stand that does this for months now. Every stand I found fit up to 26" or required mounting in the back of a desk.
> This thing sounds too good to be true except..
> DAMN! .. lol jk jk
> I looked but everything I found didn't fit 27". GJ though! I wanted that XFX until I saw it fit only 24" but that damn thing has cable management, USB hubs, etc.
> 
> 
> 
> You are welcome! Once I receive mine and setup all three monitors, I will post pics on my build log and here for the community to see. Glad I can assist you and others!
Click to expand...

Yeah I spoke with Scribby and I said if you give a positive review then we will sticky the stand to the first page. 100 bucks for a stand that first 3x28" monitors AND is worth a damn is a steal; just like these monitors.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> anyone running these things with a single or crxfire 7950's? If so how do you like it?


I run a single 7970 and it works fine. I will be buying a stand and 2 more soon with connects to see how it runs with 3 on 2 7970. I will post back when I get all that in but that's a lot of doe I'm looking at.

*Does math real quick* "Okay.. carry the one.. subtract the 10... multiple by the square of pi, divide by Newton's law.., factor in Moores law for technology degrade.. mmhmm.. mmhmm.. yep.. Eureka!"

And the answer is!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Yep. It'll cost a bunch of money.


----------



## FishHeadswg

Well, I picked up my monitor to move it and now there's a pretty annoying backlight bleed around the top where I grabbed it. I guess the pressure must've messed something up and I'm scared it'll just get worse if I try to fix it.

Testament to the shoddy quality of these things, you really need to be careful with them.

The stand is also ridiculously wobbly. Simply leaning on my desk while typing sets it off like a rollercoaster.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Yeah I spoke with Scribby and I said if you give a positive review then we will sticky the stand to the first page. 100 bucks for a stand that first 3x28" monitors AND is worth a damn is a steal; just like these monitors.


Sweet! Thanks. I will have pics and a review for the community soon!


----------



## jojoenglish85

Decided i would wait until i get to Germany in a few weeks and get settled in with my household goods and computer stuff then ill be able to correctly test what i recieve just in case i need to send it back.







So as of now im looking for some new video cards to set off 3 of these bad boy catleaps and be able to play Crysis 3 without any problems.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> Decided i would wait until i get to Germany in a few weeks and get settled in with my household goods and computer stuff then ill be able to correctly test what i recieve just in case i need to send it back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So as of now im looking for some new video cards to set off 3 of these bad boy catleaps and be able to play Crysis 3 without any problems.


O.O I'm moving to Germany in November!!







Moving to Leverkusen, between Cologne and Dusseldorf (not sure how to do that "o" with the 2 dots over them lol). Sorry for the off topic, but I really want/need to know how you plan on shipping our desktop over there.


----------



## MoMann

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Well I was blown away by my catleap, I won't go back to 1080p again.
> And you can't expect the stand quality or bezel to be the best as you are not paying a premium.
> Most likely your transaction will go smoothly, even if you get a dud *the seller will pay shipping back.*
> At the moment the cheapest is the 2703 but can have more dead pixels, your best bet is a variant of the Q270, the multi has input lag but has an HDMI port as well.
> If you are worried about taking a risk about defective pixels get the perfect pixel version..


I have been reading this thread for a while, and I have not heard of a seller that pays shipping back, that is one of the reasons I might not get one.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoMann*
> 
> I have been reading this thread for a while, and I have not heard of a seller that pays shipping back, that is one of the reasons I might not get one.


BCC arranges for pickup via dhl. Free. Then after he tests it, he ships out another one with overnight shipping. Not sure what more you could want there lol.


----------



## MoMann

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gallien*
> 
> BCC arranges for pickup via dhl. Free. Then after he tests it, he ships out another one with overnight shipping. Not sure what more you could want there lol.


Does he do that for lets sayyyy like if my monitor breaks after six months?


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> O.O I'm moving to Germany in November!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Moving to Leverkusen, between Cologne and Dusseldorf (not sure how to do that "o" with the 2 dots over them lol). Sorry for the off topic, but I really want/need to know how you plan on shipping our desktop over there.


Well i came back to Houston, TX for a little while with the wife and kids to visit family but i let them take my CPU with my household goods. I just broke everything down and bought some custom packing individually packed every component thoroughly. But i want to at least take my 6950's with me here to Houston, so i could sell them off and have a little bit of cash to upgrade. No i can't sell any of my stuff until i get it all back when i make it to Landstuhl, Germany. Is it just me or i can't find BCC on ebay, found all the other sellers but not BCC. Can someone help me out? Thanks.


----------



## Gallien

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoMann*
> 
> Does he do that for lets sayyyy like if my monitor breaks after six months?


Yes sir, my monitor came with a 1 year warranty from him.


----------



## Cheese Cake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> Well i came back to Houston, TX for a little while with the wife and kids to visit family but i let them take my CPU with my household goods. I just broke everything down and bought some custom packing individually packed every component thoroughly. But i want to at least take my 6950's with me here to Houston, so i could sell them off and have a little bit of cash to upgrade. No i can't sell any of my stuff until i get it all back when i make it to Landstuhl, Germany. Is it just me or i can't find BCC on ebay, found all the other sellers but not BCC. Can someone help me out? Thanks.


They use BCC short for bigclothcraft


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheese Cake*
> 
> They use BCC short for bigclothcraft


Found him, thanks.


----------



## PTCB

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> I got the same email as you did!! lol. But the way I see it, is if he actually does test the monitor it's worth the wait. He said mine will ship next week. I'm assuming there very very busy with these.


lol. Mine had actually left KOR and heading for NZL a couple of days ago even before they replied my message. However, it's showing "customs clearance delay" at the moment. First one got through nice and easy. Perhaps, they forgot to declare it as I'd requested. Yours should be there soon. Perhaps, it's already been shipped out without the status updated. Good luck.









As for what the hold-up was, I had no idea as I didn't bother asking BCC. Needs to ask the person I quoted for more information.


----------



## qwerties

Ordered mine on monday night (about 10pm), DHL tracking says it's arrived and been signed for so it should be here in an hour or two







Hoping for a perfect panel.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So has anyone had monitor flickering? I think it's because I lowered my GPU settings to like 500 MHz core clock, etc. I figured I was using it for web browsing but every now and then my monitor flickers. It didn't do it before until I put this water block on it and lowered my settings. (Odd I know, 7970 under water set to 500 MHz) Well my mobo is busted and can only use 1 stick of memory so I'm let with DOSBox for games atm. lol So does anyone know about flickering? Also these D-DVI things are annoying. I want good ol' DP or HDMI.


----------



## shanbcn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ziofranco*
> 
> Catleap Multi model it works perfectly at 2560x1440 with HD3000 and VGA connection
> With HDMI and DVI connection it works fine until 1920x1080


But just checked my MB specs which is Asrock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 and it say "Supports D-Sub with max. resolution up to 2048x1536 @ 75Hz".


----------



## 2ted

dream seller told me that 2703 are more likely faulty and that he couldn't send me mine because all of the ones he received had too many dead pixels. He offered to send me a 270 perfect pixel instead. I agreed of course, but I got an out of office message when I replied which means my panel won't ship out until next Monday.

Just noticed that he mentioned QH270-Lite which seems to be a shimian and not a catleap. I sent him message to confirm if the replacement is a catleap or shimian.


----------



## curlyp

Woohoo, the triple mount was delivered 10 minutes ago! I will post pictures later when I get home.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> Well i came back to Houston, TX for a little while with the wife and kids to visit family but i let them take my CPU with my household goods. I just broke everything down and bought some custom packing individually packed every component thoroughly. But i want to at least take my 6950's with me here to Houston, so i could sell them off and have a little bit of cash to upgrade. No i can't sell any of my stuff until i get it all back when i make it to Landstuhl, Germany. Is it just me or i can't find BCC on ebay, found all the other sellers but not BCC. Can someone help me out? Thanks.


BCC is pretty common on there, I would just click each posting until you find him. He's a great seller, and have been pleased with him so far. When I fly out to Germany, my computer is flying as a second luggage. Lot better then paying $459.00 for UPS shipping. I'll just have to wrap it up nice and good.


----------



## N256

My 2703 will be arriving tomorrow or Monday. green-sum just updated his listing to show a 2703 can have up to 15 dead pixels. I'm really worried.


----------



## knightmetro

Well the Q270 arrived while I was out on business and I have finally made it back to the office to pick it up.

Looks like I know what I'll be doing for lunch









Initial impressions.....looks sexy. Can't wait to see how it looks fired up at lunch.


----------



## Nulled

Can someone suggest a[n] anti glare film for the Q270?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N256*
> 
> My 2703 will be arriving tomorrow or Monday. green-sum just updated his listing to show a 2703 can have up to 15 dead pixels. I'm really worried.


So that is BigClothCraft and Green-Sum now listing the 2307 with up to 15 dead pixels









I really doubt anybody would get one that bad anyway.

Good Luck.


----------



## spinejam

Are there issues w/ P67 chipsets? I see some ebay links mentioning P67 chipsets not working.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N256*
> 
> My 2703 will be arriving tomorrow or Monday. green-sum just updated his listing to show a 2703 can have up to 15 dead pixels. I'm really worried.


Will be waiting for the results, wondering how nice the monitors are. I might pick one up soon instead of another Q207 from BBC.


----------



## knightmetro

Another great monitor from BCC. No damage to the box whatsoever.

It was definitely opened and tested before it was shipped. Very glad to see the seller was true to his word. I only ran it for about 5 minutes at lunch, but it looks flawless. Amazing picture. No scratches. No dust. No dead pixels I can see right off the bat.

It's sexier than I expected. Now the stand is worth about 5 cents, but I have a very sturdy Galant IKEA desk. Now when you tap it on purpose, it's just like a bobble head. Just keeps wobbling. But unless you have a poor desk, there is no issues besides the stand being kind of a plasti-chrome eye sore. Sad, as the frame for the monitor is rather attractive.

I'll get a triple mount when I pick up 2 more.

It does run a bit on the blue side. So I'll look up some color profiles that I have seem demonstrated on youtube and tune this monitor to the best it can get.

Very happy so far. Tonight I'll test it with BF3 maxxed out and see what it can really do.

I"M NEVER GOING BACK TO AN AG COATED MONITOR AGAIN.

This puts my prior 30" Apple Cinema HD to SHAME.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knightmetro*
> 
> Another great monitor from BCC. No damage to the box whatsoever.
> It was definitely opened and tested before it was shipped. Very glad to see the seller was true to his word. I only ran it for about 5 minutes at lunch, but it looks flawless. Amazing picture. No scratches. No dust. No dead pixels I can see right off the bat.
> It's sexier than I expected. Now the stand is worth about 5 cents, but I have a very sturdy Galant IKEA desk. Now when you tap it on purpose, it's just like a bobble head. Just keeps wobbling. But unless you have a poor desk, there is no issues besides the stand being kind of a plasti-chrome eye sore. Sad, as the frame for the monitor is rather attractive.
> I'll get a triple mount when I pick up 2 more.
> It does run a bit on the blue side. So I'll look up some color profiles that I have seem demonstrated on youtube and tune this monitor to the best it can get.
> Very happy so far. Tonight I'll test it with BF3 maxxed out and see what it can really do.
> I"M NEVER GOING BACK TO AN AG COATED MONITOR AGAIN.
> This puts my prior 30" Apple Cinema HD to SHAME.


Which exact model did you end up getting?
I was just looking at the perfect pixel has anyone had success with making an offer of say 30-60 bucks less than asking price?


----------



## knightmetro

I got the basic version, dual link DVI only, with the speakers. BCC didn't have the SE(non speaker version) left. I'll never use them anyway.

Don't waste your time with pixel perfect. Most peopel will say the same. Mine looks perfect and I rang up for $319.

I tried doing the "best offer" with a few sellers, and they never accepted lower than asking. I'd stick with BCC. That vendor seems to have the best rep, and the one I just got seems to be flawless and tested for quality.


----------



## ezikiel12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knightmetro*
> 
> I got the basic version, dual link DVI only, with the speakers. BCC didn't have the SE(non speaker version) left. I'll never use them anyway.
> Don't waste your time with pixel perfect. Most peopel will say the same. Mine looks perfect and I rang up for $319.
> I tried doing the "best offer" with a few sellers, and they never accepted lower than asking. I'd stick with BCC. That vendor seems to have the best rep, and the one I just got seems to be flawless and tested for quality.


Agreed. Just got my BCC catleap Q270 a week ago. Its perfect!


----------



## knightmetro

I've got a guy who took a peek at it in the office and is already thinking about ordering 3 for his flight sim setup.

It's just too good to pass up. Even if they just lasted you 3 years.....it was only $300.

Why can't we get these off brand deals in the states? It's all the same cheese, just in a different wrapper.


----------



## Dafty

Package arrived today, however only one of monitors?









When I went to ebay I ordered a perfect pixel monitor from green-sum and put the quantity at 3.

The payment of $1200 or so went through and everything, however only one showed up today.

Now the DHL tracking says delivered successfully, but what about the other two?


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N256*
> 
> My 2703 will be arriving tomorrow or Monday. green-sum just updated his listing to show a 2703 can have up to 15 dead pixels. I'm really worried.


Worse case scenario you end up with 5-6 dead pixels, you will have a very hard time noticing them considering the monitor has about 14 million pixels. So 5 out of 14 million is not bad at all







I went with BCC (Bigclothcraft) for mine. IMO he is buy far the most superior seller of them all. I believe he actually checks the monitors out. You usually receive them in about a week instead of 2-3 days, but I would rather wait a week or so and have something great then take a chance on a seller just shipping a random unchecked monitor.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dafty*
> 
> Package arrived today, however only one of monitors?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> When I went to ebay I ordered a perfect pixel monitor from green-sum and put the quantity at 3.
> 
> The payment of $1200 or so went through and everything, however only one showed up today.
> 
> Now the DHL tracking says delivered successfully, but what about the other two?


You do realize you can buy those in sum of 3 at a discount... Like 2 for 615 instead of 2 for 400 each.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> You do realize you can buy those in sum of 3 at a discount... Like 2 for 615 instead of 2 for 400 each.


I think hes more worried that he paid for 3 and only got one.
If i were him i would get onto the seller ASAP (Which seller by the way?)
They might send you two more, or refund you for two of them.
Either way do it quick, the quicker they know they've made a mistake the easier it is to put right


----------



## Dafty

Yeah but there wasn't a perfect pixel option for the 3 monitor bundle, and even if there is, I don't care at this point. Money isn't too much of an issue, however only receiving one monitor is. Big time


----------



## ivanlabrie

Guys, quick one...Anyone here experienced with VESA mounting a 24" 1080p Catleap?
Shooting that one in the air just in case.








Thanks!


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> dream seller told me that 2703 are more likely faulty and that he couldn't send me mine because all of the ones he received had too many dead pixels. He offered to send me a 270 perfect pixel instead. I agreed of course, but I got an out of office message when I replied which means my panel won't ship out until next Monday.
> Just noticed that he mentioned QH270-Lite which seems to be a shimian and not a catleap. I sent him message to confirm if the replacement is a catleap or shimian.


Same story that was told to me. I also got offered the qh270-lite. I also got the out of office response. I ordered mine on the 10th


----------



## kimbernator

I just ordered a q270 from BCC on Tuesday (Aug 14) and the shipping details provided on ebay that pull from DHL still show nothing. I've gotten an email from BCC that says my monitor was shipped. Anyone else have a similar experience?

I'm living Washington State, if it helps.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimbernator*
> 
> I just ordered a q270 from BCC on Tuesday (Aug 14) and the shipping details provided on ebay that pull from DHL still show nothing. I've gotten an email from BCC that says my monitor was shipped. Anyone else have a similar experience?
> I'm living Washington State, if it helps.


Yes, I can help you my friend. I'm in the EXACT situation with BCC. I ordered mine August 13th, and I received an email saying mine has been shipped as well. I even have a tracking number that shows absolutely nothing! lol. I emailed him to ask about that, and he said it takes anywhere from 1-3 days to test the monitor, and since they just got off ANOTHER holiday, that pushed things back 1-2 days, and he said mine will ship off next week...hopefully Monday. At that time the tracking info will update, and we will be able to track that via DHL.com. Don't track in ebay because it takes them way to long to update ebay with tracking. Go directly to DHL.com. If I can be of any further help don't hesitate to ask!! Have a great weekend!! ^^


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> You do realize you can buy those in sum of 3 at a discount... Like 2 for 615 instead of 2 for 400 each.
> 
> 
> 
> I think hes more worried that he paid for 3 and only got one.
> If i were him i would get onto the seller ASAP (Which seller by the way?)
> They might send you two more, or refund you for two of them.
> Either way do it quick, the quicker they know they've made a mistake the easier it is to put right
Click to expand...

Eh. It's not like they ship all 3 in one box.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dafty*
> 
> Yeah but there wasn't a perfect pixel option for the 3 monitor bundle, and even if there is, I don't care at this point. Money isn't too much of an issue, however only receiving one monitor is. Big time


Don't worry about it bro. You are waiting on 3 packages to ship all the way from South Korea! They aren't going to ship three twenty lb monitors in one big box. They ship it separately.. *derp derp.* I say give it more time. The one you got early could have been a fluke too. You did order during their holiday in which no one worked so maybe they had time to ship out your one monitor and not the other two. Then the holiday hit and now your two monitors are stuck in a giant pile waiting to all ship out. Their shipping people are trying to play catch up so I'd chill out. Besides that, you ordered from a well known, well respected seller who isn't going to screw you over. I'd email them and ask for someone to call about the situation.


----------



## kimbernator

Also, another question: After ordering, I got the set of questions from BCC about whether they should mark it as a gift, what price on the invoice etc. I said yes to mark it as a gift but to go ahead and put the full price ($320) on the invoice. Was that a bad decision? Will it make a difference?


----------



## wxlf9

Can somebody recommend a Vesa monitor stand to replace the one that comes with this monitor? Thanks!


----------



## 2ted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lynxxyarly*
> 
> Same story that was told to me. I also got offered the qh270-lite. I also got the out of office response. I ordered mine on the 10th


I replied maybe less than two hours after he sent me the email too. I don't like how he sends these emails right before he goes "out of office." And I don't really want a shimian... I ordered a catleap and I better get one lol. I'm going to ask for one of the white 270... maybe the multi version which is like 30 bucks more expensive newly priced 2703. Trying to make this bad situation into a good one. I really wanted my monitor. It's been more than 1 full week and nothing has been done which is a major disappointment. Just got all the other parts for my new rig.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> You do realize you can buy those in sum of 3 at a discount... Like 2 for 615 instead of 2 for 400 each.
> 
> 
> 
> I think hes more worried that he paid for 3 and only got one.
> If i were him i would get onto the seller ASAP (Which seller by the way?)
> They might send you two more, or refund you for two of them.
> Either way do it quick, the quicker they know they've made a mistake the easier it is to put right
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Eh. It's not like they ship all 3 in one box.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Dafty*
> 
> Yeah but there wasn't a perfect pixel option for the 3 monitor bundle, and even if there is, I don't care at this point. Money isn't too much of an issue, however only receiving one monitor is. Big time
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't worry about it bro. You are waiting on 3 packages to ship all the way from South Korea! They aren't going to ship three twenty lb monitors in one big box. They ship it separately.. *derp derp.* I say give it more time. The one you got early could have been a fluke too. You did order during their holiday in which no one worked so maybe they had time to ship out your one monitor and not the other two. Then the holiday hit and now your two monitors are stuck in a giant pile waiting to all ship out. Their shipping people are trying to play catch up so I'd chill out. Besides that, you ordered from a well known, well respected seller who isn't going to screw you over. I'd email them and ask for someone to call about the situation.
Click to expand...

Edit:

On another note! I have good news guys! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150586

The new version of my GPU comes with a second D-DVI port unlike the first release ones. So now I can CF the two and have enough ports to attach another two monitors. The only problem I face now is that my water block for my GPU will either not match, or I will have to wait for Swiftech to make an updated version for non-reference PCBs.


----------



## Dafty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Eh. It's not like they ship all 3 in one box.
> Don't worry about it bro. You are waiting on 3 packages to ship all the way from South Korea! They aren't going to ship three twenty lb monitors in one big box. They ship it separately.. *derp derp.* I say give it more time. The one you got early could have been a fluke too. You did order during their holiday in which no one worked so maybe they had time to ship out your one monitor and not the other two. Then the holiday hit and now your two monitors are stuck in a giant pile waiting to all ship out. Their shipping people are trying to play catch up so I'd chill out. Besides that, you ordered from a well known, well respected seller who isn't going to screw you over. I'd email them and ask for someone to call about the situation.


I really do appreciate the optimism, but I've already emailed green-sum. His reply was to take a pic of my package, send it to him, then he said they're going to investigate their records, CCTV(security cameras), etc. I swear it's like I'm *always* the odd one out that gets over in stuff. lol


----------



## Petter-S

Probably been asked many times before :/ I have a Powercolor 5770 card, will the monitor support it? The graphic card specs says 2x dual link dvi-i


----------



## Nulled

Green-sum just messaged me saying:
Quote:


> Sorry about that. There is an issue on white version of YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE, ordered.
> We needed to reorder it due to recent bad panel condition, (We found out when testing your monitor).
> Therefore, I wonder if you are only interested in white color, if not we would like to wait a bit more for better condition.
> If you would like to change to another model, we will offer $20 credit back.
> Otherwise, we will refund your payment in this time and inform you when it is available.
> Let us know.


I guess I'll ask for the black version, is there a matte version he sells or something?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dafty*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Eh. It's not like they ship all 3 in one box.
> Don't worry about it bro. You are waiting on 3 packages to ship all the way from South Korea! They aren't going to ship three twenty lb monitors in one big box. They ship it separately.. *derp derp.* I say give it more time. The one you got early could have been a fluke too. You did order during their holiday in which no one worked so maybe they had time to ship out your one monitor and not the other two. Then the holiday hit and now your two monitors are stuck in a giant pile waiting to all ship out. Their shipping people are trying to play catch up so I'd chill out. Besides that, you ordered from a well known, well respected seller who isn't going to screw you over. I'd email them and ask for someone to call about the situation.
> 
> 
> 
> I really do appreciate the optimism, but I've already emailed green-sum. His reply was to take a pic of my package, send it to him, then he said they're going to investigate their records, CCTV(security cameras), etc. I swear it's like I'm *always* the odd one out that gets over in stuff. lol
Click to expand...

Oh don't worry there bud. I have been screwed over many times with my PC build so far.

1. My cathode broke for my FrozenQ Res so I ordered 3 more.
2. FrozenQ Res didn't come with a G1/4" thread plug. Had to order another one on my own.
3. My radiator doesn't seem to fit any fan. 420mm Black Ice (Hardware Labs). Tried it on 3 140mm fans (Akasa, NZXT, Aerocool) And them idiots said take a pic of it for "RMA Inspection". Idiots.. Still fighting for an RMA.
4. My Komodo water block was delivered without a back plate (required for mounting and PCB stability)
5. My motherboard pooped out on me a few weeks ago and only read DIMM slot 1. I bought this board back in February. (MSI RMA is very picky on returns/replacements) Will RMA if possible but either way buying a Gigabyte Sniper 3.
6. I/O panel on my mobo is very crappy. I have to rotate my 3.5 jack for a clean connection at times. (Buying sound card to solve this problem)
7. NZXT fan 7 way PCB burnt out. I will be ordering a 8-way PCB instead.
8. Steel Series Engine bugs out on me and the mouse doesn't register. (Driver update has fixed this but in the past is was unbearable.)

So you are not the only one to experience misfortune with PC parts.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> Green-sum just messaged me saying:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about that. There is an issue on white version of YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE, ordered.
> We needed to reorder it due to recent bad panel condition, (We found out when testing your monitor).
> Therefore, I wonder if you are only interested in white color, if not we would like to wait a bit more for better condition.
> If you would like to change to another model, we will offer $20 credit back.
> Otherwise, we will refund your payment in this time and inform you when it is available.
> Let us know.
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I'll ask for the black version, is there a matte version he sells or something?
Click to expand...

Wow. At least they are very nice about the whole situation. Willing to refund you and then email you when a replacement comes in. A+ service. I hear Korea and think gaming capital of the world and how they love USA and then I think hmm.. Shady people in foreign countries. (Not all countries but still. Non big known companies at least)


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Edit:
> On another note! I have good news guys! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150586
> The new version of my GPU comes with a second D-DVI port unlike the first release ones. So now I can CF the two and have enough ports to attach another two monitors. The only problem I face now is that my water block for my GPU will either not match, or I will have to wait for Swiftech to make an updated version for non-reference PCBs.


According to the website that card only has one dual link dvi.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimbernator*
> 
> Also, another question: After ordering, I got the set of questions from BCC about whether they should mark it as a gift, what price on the invoice etc. I said yes to mark it as a gift but to go ahead and put the full price ($320) on the invoice. Was that a bad decision? Will it make a difference?


Marking it as a gift was good, putting the price as $320....well, expect to pay more money when it gets delivered. You are supposed to say $100 max. If it's anymore then $100 chances are super good you will have to pay taxes and duty fees before DHL will release it to you.


----------



## 2ted

Anyone know what the tag [Free Voltage] means on some of these monitors? From what I can tell, they are identical to other comparable models.


----------



## Bigbrag

I determined my catleap is definitely dead. I finally received my new ad adapter. When plugged into the monitor it turns on and off and I can hear a click like its enabled over voltage protection. Works fine when I unplug it from the monitor. The original power adapter turns on and the monitor displays an image for a short second then both the monitor and ac adapter turn off and it repeats the cycle. It's been a couple months. Not sure what Greensum will do for me. Really sucks. These monitors are definitely constructed poorly. I don't think I would buy this same model again.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Hi everyone, just joined to tell about my experience.

I read about the yamakasi monitors for the first time about 2 weeks ago, been reading here a lot in that time, ordered a Q270 SE last sunday from green-sum.

It was sent on monday and yesterday i got a call from dhl that my package was in their depot but needed a customs fee, i could either tell the dhl lady my visa info and it would get delivered, or pick it up and pay then.
I went to pick up because i kinda wanted to test it asap and i really would rather not tell someone my visa info on the phone.

Tracking on dhl site worked fine too(although a bit more info would be handy but thats a dhl issue)

The monitor seems perfect, really beautiful, great picture quality and no bad pixels at all.
Yes the stand is wobbly but i knew about that, it doesn't bother me too much.


----------



## kimbernator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Marking it as a gift was good, putting the price as $320....well, expect to pay more money when it gets delivered. You are supposed to say $100 max. If it's anymore then $100 chances are super good you will have to pay taxes and duty fees before DHL will release it to you.


How much would I expect to pay? I'm in the US and the original post doesn't speak to how much taxes are.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

There are no taxes for monitors shipped to the US.


----------



## kimbernator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> There are no taxes for monitors shipped to the US.


Yeah, I did a bit more digging and I found this. Thank goodness, I was getting worried that I would be shelling out another hundred bucks.


----------



## curlyp

*Triple Monitor Review for Catleaps*

*Merchant:* EastMountLCD.com
*Product:* Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Free Standing up to 28"
*Price:* $95.95

Well, I received the triple monitor mount yesterday, and with one word to describe it, AMAZING!

I was really surprised with the fast shipping and the quality of the mount. I have never heard of this company, so at first, I was a little reluctant to order.

First off, the build quality of this mount is solid! The base of the mount is really sturdy and well made. The mount itself seems to be powder coasted of some sort. It comes with an adjustable pole (for the height of the monitors) which attaches to the base and the arm is assembled with 3 pieces. Adjusting the mount and monitors is very easy for rotating, pivoting, and side to side with a lever locking mechanism. Also, one neat feature I like about this mount, is the cut-out in the pole for your cables!

All the necessary hardware is provided in the box. The instructions were easy to read. It took me less than an hour to assemble the mount and attach the monitors.

Cons:

As of right now, the only thing I noticed, is the arm is not angled much. This does not bother me, but I know some users would like a cockpit feel with a wider angle.

I still have some adjustments and cable management to do, but I am not going to bother with it too much since I am de-bezeling the with in the next week or so. In the mean time, if I have any issue with the mount, I will let the community know.

Overall, I am happy with my purchase, and I highly recommend this mount; especially at this price!

I hope this helps everyone who is seeking a monitor stand for one, two, or three monitors.

So, with out further adieu...check out the pictures!


----------



## knightmetro

^^^
Will that hold 3 Catleaps in landscape? If it does, I've found my stand.


----------



## curlyp

Also, I was able to remove the stands without having to take out/disconnect the LCD screen.

You should be able to hold up the LCD screen enough to take of the top two screws of the back cuve plate. * Look at picture number 5 on Scribby's guide*
Flip the monitor around, and lift up the LCD screen while you take of the bottom two screws. * Look at picture number 5 on Scribby's guide*
While the LCD screen is still being held up, unscrew the four screws on the silver bracket to remove the stand. * Look at picture number 7 and 9 on Scribby's guide*
After you have removed the screws, pulled the stand our of the bracket and use a 10mm nut or pliers to remove both nuts. * Look at picture number 9 on Scribby's guide*
Remove the bracket and stand completely - continue with Scribby's guide.
Below are pictures of how I removed it without disconnect the LCD screen.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *knightmetro*
> 
> ^^^
> Will that hold 3 Catleaps in landscape? If it does, I've found my stand.


I did not try landscape yet, but I will try it in a few and let you know.


----------



## computerdeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> *Triple Monitor Review for Catleaps*
> *Merchant:* EastMountLCD.com
> *Product:* Deluxe Triple Monitor Stand Free Standing up to 28"
> *Price:* $95.95
> Well, I received the triple monitor mount yesterday, and with one word to describe it, AMAZING!
> I was really surprised with the fast shipping and the quality of the mount. I have never heard of this company, so at first, I was a little reluctant to order.
> First off, the build quality of this mount is solid! The base of the mount is really sturdy and well made. The mount itself seems to be powder coasted of some sort. It comes with an adjustable pole (for the height of the monitors) which attaches to the base and the arm is assembled with 3 pieces. Adjusting the mount and monitors is very easy for rotating, pivoting, and side to side with a lever locking mechanism. Also, one neat feature I like about this mount, is the cut-out in the pole for your cables!
> All the necessary hardware is provided in the box. The instructions were easy to read. It took me less than an hour to assemble the mount and attach the monitors.
> Cons:
> As of right now, the only thing I noticed, is the arm is not angled much. This does not bother me, but I know some users would like a cockpit feel with a wider angle.
> I still have some adjustments and cable management to do, but I am not going to bother with it too much since I am de-bezeling the with in the next week or so. In the mean time, if I have any issue with the mount, I will let the community know.
> Overall, I am happy with my purchase, and I highly recommend this mount; especially at this price!
> I hope this helps everyone who is seeking a monitor stand for one, two, or three monitors.
> So, with out further adieu...check out the pictures


You think a PLP set up of 24" 27" 24" work?


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *computerdeth*
> 
> You think a PLP set up of 24" 27" 24" work?


Yes, I don't see why it would. I will try it on my 27's and let you know. If you look at their website, click on this mount, you will see various pictures - one is PLP I believe.


----------



## computerdeth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Yes, I don't see why it would. I will try it on my 27's and let you know. If you look at their website, click on this mount, you will see various pictures - one is PLP I believe.


I have 2 U2412M and I will be getting a Catleap and im looking for a triple monitor stand. Thanks.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *computerdeth*
> 
> I have 2 U2412M and I will be getting a Catleap and im looking for a triple monitor stand. Thanks.


You are welcome. You will be very happy with your Catleap


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimbernator*
> 
> How much would I expect to pay? I'm in the US and the original post doesn't speak to how much taxes are.


I would guess anywhere from $20-$30 dollars. FYI, next time tell them $100 or slightly less, or tell them "whatever would cause no additional fees." And they will take care of you. I don't know how much the tax/duty charge is exactly. There is no "set in stone" amount to speak of

Edit: Sorry, that is correct, no taxes, but possible duty charges you will have to pay


----------



## Delphiwizard

I payed $70 for taxes/charges :/ but this is europe of course


----------



## Scorpion49

Can anyone tell me if its possible to use a DP to DVI cable for these screens with an HD7970? I got one from monoprice but when I hook it up I just get the flashing green light. I'm so tired of this, the money I saved by buying a "cheap" 7970 I've spent twice over in cables trying to get this to work right.. nearly $150 worth.


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if its possible to use a DP to DVI cable for these screens with an HD7970? I got one from monoprice but when I hook it up I just get the flashing green light. I'm so tired of this, the money I saved by buying a "cheap" 7970 I've spent twice over in cables trying to get this to work right.. nearly $150 worth.


Hello Scorpion39 - sorry to hear about that. Yes, you can use DP to DVI, it just needs to be an ACTIVE adapter.

Here is the only I am using:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

I have three of them for my catleaps that I use on my MSI Lightning 7970s. If you look a few posts up, you will see all three of my monitors on the triple stand.

Hope this helps you!


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Hello Scorpion39 - sorry to hear about that. Yes, you can use DP to DVI, it just needs to be an ACTIVE adapter.
> Here is the only I am using:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
> I have three of them for my catleaps that I use on my MSI Lightning 7970s. If you look a few posts up, you will see all three of my monitors on the triple stand.
> Hope this helps you!


Hmm, I'm not using an adapter at all, I guess thats where I got confused. My cable has a DP on one side and DVI on the other. I thought it might work without having to have an active adapter, but if it doesn't then what is the point of such a cable in the first place?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Edit:
> On another note! I have good news guys! http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814150586
> The new version of my GPU comes with a second D-DVI port unlike the first release ones. So now I can CF the two and have enough ports to attach another two monitors. The only problem I face now is that my water block for my GPU will either not match, or I will have to wait for Swiftech to make an updated version for non-reference PCBs.
> 
> 
> 
> According to the website that card only has one dual link dvi.
Click to expand...

Yeah... I'm not sure by newegg anyways. Their picture shows a 5 ports but the website says 4. I honestly think they changed the picture to a 7870 which I know has 4 ports.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Can anyone tell me if its possible to use a DP to DVI cable for these screens with an HD7970? I got one from monoprice but when I hook it up I just get the flashing green light. I'm so tired of this, the money I saved by buying a "cheap" 7970 I've spent twice over in cables trying to get this to work right.. nearly $150 worth.


No worries. I spent 520 on my card for it to drop to 470 a few weeks later.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> Hello Scorpion39 - sorry to hear about that. Yes, you can use DP to DVI, it just needs to be an ACTIVE adapter.
> Here is the only I am using:
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00856WJH8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
> I have three of them for my catleaps that I use on my MSI Lightning 7970s. If you look a few posts up, you will see all three of my monitors on the triple stand.
> Hope this helps you!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hmm, I'm not using an adapter at all, I guess thats where I got confused. My cable has a DP on one side and DVI on the other. I thought it might work without having to have an active adapter, but if it doesn't then what is the point of such a cable in the first place?
Click to expand...

You got me there.


----------



## pandatoucher

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Hmm, I'm not using an adapter at all, I guess thats where I got confused. My cable has a DP on one side and DVI on the other. I thought it might work without having to have an active adapter, but if it doesn't then what is the point of such a cable in the first place?


To put it simply any kind of connection that does not require dual link dvi...

The problem is that at such a high resolution single link dvi is not capable of the bandwidth required. So an active adapter is required to take the single channel source(dp) into dual channel output.

You can run lower resolutions with a dp-dvi cord up to 1920x1200 i believe. I don't remember the exact limitation of single link off hand but regardless non active adapter/cords have their place


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pandatoucher*
> 
> To put it simply any kind of connection that does not require dual link dvi...
> The problem is that at such a high resolution single link dvi is not capable of the bandwidth required. So an active adapter is required to take the single channel source(dp) into dual channel output.
> You can run lower resolutions with a dp-dvi cord up to 1920x1200 i believe. I don't remember the exact limitation of single link off hand but regardless non active adapter/cords have their place


Yeah, I guess. I'm not throwing any more money at this POS Asus 7970 though, the guy who I got it from said he will take it back and refund me. I'm about to go buy a GTX something, whatever is in stock at the local Fry's. Not going to take ANY chances with another failure of an AMD card (this is my second 7970 in a month that has had significant issues).


----------



## moremilk

Not sure if anybody had this problem before, this thread is rather long now and searching I couldn't find anything

I basically got one of these yamakasi 27" screens from BCC, I think I got a new model, it's called Precision 2703. The problem I have is that the screen is blank while everything else appears to be working. The power brick is on, the power led (it's blue on this model) is solid blue, Windows detects the monitor at the proper resolution,although without a name (just says DVI), but the screen remains dead black.

I'm using the cable that came with the monitor, it appears to be decent quality and unfortunately I don't have a second cable around to test. But given that Windows detects the monitor, it's unlikely the cable is the problem. I tried 2 other video cards (I have a GTX670 and I tried a 7950 and a 6450 from AMD) and I get the same problem.

At this point, I'm pretty sure the monitor is DOA, but I'd rather avoid dealing with returns and such if the problem is something minor that could be easily fixed ... Plus, I sent them two emails already and it's been 2 days and I got no answers yet.

Anybody has any ideas?

thanks


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moremilk*
> 
> Not sure if anybody had this problem before, this thread is rather long now and searching I couldn't find anything
> I basically got one of these yamakasi 27" screens from BCC, I think I got a new model, it's called Precision 2703. The problem I have is that the screen is blank while everything else appears to be working. The power brick is on, the power led (it's blue on this model) is solid blue, Windows detects the monitor at the proper resolution,although without a name (just says DVI), but the screen remains dead black.
> I'm using the cable that came with the monitor, it appears to be decent quality and unfortunately I don't have a second cable around to test. But given that Windows detects the monitor, it's unlikely the cable is the problem. I tried 2 other video cards (I have a GTX670 and I tried a 7950 and a 6450 from AMD) and I get the same problem.
> At this point, I'm pretty sure the monitor is DOA, but I'd rather avoid dealing with returns and such if the problem is something minor that could be easily fixed ... Plus, I sent them two emails already and it's been 2 days and I got no answers yet.
> Anybody has any ideas?
> thanks


That's definitely a cable problem. Try a new one, and if not pull it apart and the ribbon cables inside might be disconnected. Obviously everything is fine in the line except for the monitor or cable.


----------



## moremilk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> That's definitely a cable problem. Try a new one, and if not pull it apart and the ribbon cables inside might be disconnected. Obviously everything is fine in the line except for the monitor or cable.


It definitely looks like something disconnected, I'm just concerned that if I open it up, the seller may complain and not accept it back in case it really is DOA ... I guess I'll try a new cable first, but if the cable was wrong, I should be getting at least something. Even without a cable, a powered on monitor has some minimal lighting, while this on is dark as a powered off device, even at night in a dark room, there's no light whatsoever (outside of the power led ...).


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moremilk*
> 
> It definitely looks like something disconnected, I'm just concerned that if I open it up, the seller may complain and not accept it back in case it really is DOA ... I guess I'll try a new cable first, but if the cable was wrong, I should be getting at least something. Even without a cable, a powered on monitor has some minimal lighting, while this on is dark as a powered off device, even at night in a dark room, there's no light whatsoever (outside of the power led ...).


You're right about the DOA replacement. Try a new cable before popping it open.


----------



## Visceral

So the q270 catleap from BCC seems to be the one of choice then? Sounds like the pixel perfect guarantee ones might be worth it. Would an overclocked gtx 670 be enough to game on this bad boy?


----------



## kimbernator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Visceral*
> 
> So the q270 catleap from BCC seems to be the one of choice then? Sounds like the pixel perfect guarantee ones might be worth it. Would an overclocked gtx 670 be enough to game on this bad boy?


Sure it would. The only issue is that you may end up hitting that 2gb VRAM limit pretty quickly depending on the game.


----------



## Visceral

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimbernator*
> 
> Sure it would. The only issue is that you may end up hitting that 2gb VRAM limit pretty quickly depending on the game.


Humpf. Well, I already own the card so not much I can do there. Maybe I should pass on the monitor then?


----------



## kimbernator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Visceral*
> 
> Humpf. Well, I already own the card so not much I can do there. Maybe I should pass on the monitor then?


No, it's not an issue currently. There are people running these with 1gb cards, and 680s are popular with them and they have 2gb. It's just something to keep in mind for the future. And it isn't like you can't use the monitor when you upgrade the video card in a couple years.


----------



## Absolute1l

Need help identifying and finding where to purchase and internal cable. Got another post but Figured I'd catch more Catleapers here.

please check it out and let me know if you have any suggestions! thanks!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1296062/help-with-catleap-internals


----------



## Absolute1l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I took some pics of inside since it was a 2D serial. I forgot my wife had left the dslr at home so took with my iphone, most came out blurry, but here are two.


You wouldn't happen to know what kind of cable that thin silver flat one is, would you? I was taking off the stand, and when I pulled up the monitor it jerked the flat cable out and sheered off one of those tiny connector prongs. Now I get only backlight, but no picture signal. Sorry if this is a bit off the side, but ive been looking all over for help with this.


----------



## eltocliousus

Has anyone had any experience with the FIRST FSM-270YG? It's just another Yamakasi alternative, but it looks a little better bezel wise and has 100x100mm VESA rather than 75x75mm (I currently have a 100x100mm VESA installed).


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eltocliousus*
> 
> Has anyone had any experience with the FIRST FSM-270YG? It's just another Yamakasi alternative, but it looks a little better bezel wise and has 100x100mm VESA rather than 75x75mm (I currently have a 100x100mm VESA installed).


feel free to link us


----------



## Petter-S

Is it difficult to remove the stand and attach it to a 75 VESA stand? it seems so from the the guide.


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Visceral*
> 
> So the q270 catleap from BCC seems to be the one of choice then? Sounds like the pixel perfect guarantee ones might be worth it. Would an overclocked gtx 670 be enough to game on this bad boy?


If I were you I'd get the 2703. Looks a lot nicer imo and there's no disassembly required to reach the VESA mounts. Exact same panel inside though.


----------



## moremilk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> You're right about the DOA replacement. Try a new cable before popping it open.


bought a new cable, same result
I guess I'll have to wait for the seller to get back to me before I attempt to open the screen


----------



## nathan900

Hey guys. has anyone bought the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor from this website ? http://www.creativepeter.com/yamakasi-catleap-27-q270-led-multi-screen-2560x1440-wqhd-monitor-black.html?currency=USD

i just want to make sure it is safe


----------



## wkstar

Order and let everyone Know

BCC, Greensum, Redcap, Dreamseller, etc has worked for everyone else
I do not know why you would want to even try some never heard of website
But you must have a good reason, Not to order from what works


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathan900*
> 
> Hey guys. has anyone bought the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor from this website ? http://www.creativepeter.com/yamakasi-catleap-27-q270-led-multi-screen-2560x1440-wqhd-monitor-black.html?currency=USD
> i just want to make sure it is safe


Haven't heard of it, but $296 for a multi? It must just be me, but that price scares me for that model which normally sell for $380+ but hey, it might be a good deal, but I only order from what I know.


----------



## Markon101

I have all of my calibrations turned off, yet, there is still banding in the test image. (The one in the color calibration section on page one) Is this normal for this monitor? Or is windows (or my Nvidia control panel) not actually turning their calibration off?

I have windows 7 64bit with an Nvidia 580 GTX running the latest graphics driver. (301.42 WHQL) Couldn't find anything much about this issue.


----------



## 2ted

Well, dream-seller said he doesn't have any catleap on supply right now and is still offering me a shimian hq270-lite. I guess I'll just take this. It is supposed to be a perfect version.

Looks like I won't be joining catleap club... on to shimian ! lol


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> Well, dream-seller said he doesn't have any catleap on supply right now and is still offering me a shimian hq270-lite. I guess I'll just take this. It is supposed to be a perfect version.
> Looks like I won't be joining catleap club... on to shimian ! lol


Just take one from BCC or wait.


----------



## ADDreen

So I took the plunge and ordered a Catleap 2703 from bigclothcraft!
Upon getting my verification emails, I also got an email of a question I asked BCC a few days prior.
He said the average dead pixels for a 2703 is between 5-10...
I was freaking stunned...for those that have the 2703 is he right?
There's a 15 dead pixel policy before it can be returned, this is freaking scary to think having 5+ dead pixels and not being able to do anything about it.
He has zero negative feedbacks regarding the 2703, and the most recent 20 have no mention of 1-2+ dead pixels.


----------



## wkstar

- I have TWO 2703's and there are *ZERO* pixel or light bleed issues


----------



## ADDreen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> - I have TWO 2703's and there are *ZERO* pixel or light bleed issues


bought from BCC?


----------



## darkreize

What GPU are you guys using for your Yamakasi?


----------



## eltocliousus

Anyone bought one of these from AccessoriesWhole?
They have the best feedback of any of the 27" korean monitors and I believe have the most sales too (99.9%, 10,000+)


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkreize*
> 
> What GPU are you guys using for your Yamakasi?


GTX 670 FTW
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## curlyp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkreize*
> 
> What GPU are you guys using for your Yamakasi?


2x MSI Lightning 7970's


----------



## RizMarkie

Issue: Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Multi monitor showing squished screen on both DVI and HDMI inputs

I've had this monitor about 2 weeks, and this morning when I turned it on, the image is compressed in the center of the screen, taking up about 2/3 of the screen. I checked the resolution was set correctly (2560x1440), tried changing the refresh, and the issue is happening on both DVI and HDMI inputs.

Here's a screenshot (sorry for the low light but you can see the black bars on each side of the image):


http://imgur.com/EQeKY


I did replace the factory stand with a 3M stand from Newegg, which required me to open the housing & remove the panel to disconnect the factory stand. It's been working fine for about a week since I put the new stand on.

I had to run to work so I couldn't troubleshoot it extensively, but I haven't seen anyone else with the same issue yet in my searches.

Would anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks for reading!


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RizMarkie*
> 
> Issue: Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Multi monitor showing squished screen on both DVI and HDMI inputs
> 
> I've had this monitor about 2 weeks, and this morning when I turned it on, the image is compressed in the center of the screen, taking up about 2/3 of the screen. I checked the resolution was set correctly (2560x1440), tried changing the refresh, and the issue is happening on both DVI and HDMI inputs.
> 
> Here's a screenshot (sorry for the low light but you can see the black bars on each side of the image):
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/EQeKY
> 
> 
> I did replace the factory stand with a 3M stand from Newegg, which required me to open the housing & remove the panel to disconnect the factory stand. It's been working fine for about a week since I put the new stand on.
> 
> I had to run to work so I couldn't troubleshoot it extensively, but I haven't seen anyone else with the same issue yet in my searches.
> 
> Would anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks for reading!


I don't have a Yamakasi yet, but on my Samsung, that happens when you have the aspect ratio set incorrectly. Not sure if the Yamakasi even lets you change that. You should have it set to 16:9 or maybe Auto; you might have it set to 4:3 right now.


----------



## spinejam

Does the tempered glass edition affect the image quality on these?


----------



## jeffxx

I just received mine today. Beautiful screen but it's just too big and it's not worth giving up the 120hz. I'll most likely sell it off. It really is gorgeous though. Zero dead pixels from green sum.


----------



## RizMarkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I don't have a Yamakasi yet, but on my Samsung, that happens when you have the aspect ratio set incorrectly. Not sure if the Yamakasi even lets you change that. You should have it set to 16:9 or maybe Auto; you might have it set to 4:3 right now.


Thanks for the reply! The ebay seller had linked an english manual .PDF, and there looks like there is an option to set aspect ratio. So I'm crossing my fingers that it somehow got switched by accident!


----------



## Bigbrag

Woohoo, I'm pumped. So my new power brick did not fix the problem with my monitor which was a huge disappointment. I contacted greensum and he said I could send the monitor back but I would have to cover the costs. I contacted squaretrade and they said that my monitor was still covered under the manufactures warranty and I would need to contact them. I called squaretrade and told them that the manufacture would not cover the costs of repairing or replacing the monitor. They asked me to send them a sales receipt and then they would send me a pre-paid shipping label to send the monitor to them, and they would then refund me the purchase price once it is in their possession! I'm so thankful I'm not going to be out $300+ dollars.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bigbrag*
> 
> Woohoo, I'm pumped. So my new power brick did not fix the problem with my monitor which was a huge disappointment. I contacted greensum and he said I could send the monitor back but I would have to cover the costs. I contacted squaretrade and they said that my monitor was still covered under the manufactures warranty and I would need to contact them. I called squaretrade and told them that the manufacture would not cover the costs of repairing or replacing the monitor. They asked me to send them a sales receipt and then they would send me a pre-paid shipping label to send the monitor to them, and they would then refund me the purchase price once it is in their possession! I'm so thankful I'm not going to be out $300+ dollars.


=/ It's experiences like this that are making me hesitant about buying one. I think I'm going to wait either for other manufacturers to quit overcharging for their IPS displays, for Yamakasi sellers to up their quality assurance testing, or for Yamakasi to start distributing from within the US via Newegg/Amazon.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> =/ It's experiences like this that are making me hesitant about buying one. I think I'm going to wait either for other manufacturers to quit overcharging for their IPS displays, for Yamakasi sellers to up their quality assurance testing, or for Yamakasi to start distributing from within the US via Newegg/Amazon.


Search for bigclothcraft on Ebay.

They offer the Q270 (up to 5 dead pixels and a pixel perfect version) with a free quality check. They check that it is fully functional, check for over 5 dead pixels (or no dead pixels depending on whether you buy the pixel perfect version), and check for physical damage. All before they send you it.

They don't seem to be much more expensive than other sellers either.


----------



## RizMarkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RizMarkie*
> 
> Issue: Yamakasi Catleap Q270 Multi monitor showing squished screen on both DVI and HDMI inputs
> I've had this monitor about 2 weeks, and this morning when I turned it on, the image is compressed in the center of the screen, taking up about 2/3 of the screen. I checked the resolution was set correctly (2560x1440), tried changing the refresh, and the issue is happening on both DVI and HDMI inputs.
> Here's a screenshot (sorry for the low light but you can see the black bars on each side of the image):
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/EQeKY
> 
> I did replace the factory stand with a 3M stand from Newegg, which required me to open the housing & remove the panel to disconnect the factory stand. It's been working fine for about a week since I put the new stand on.
> I had to run to work so I couldn't troubleshoot it extensively, but I haven't seen anyone else with the same issue yet in my searches.
> Would anyone know what might be wrong? Thanks for reading!


Fixed!! It was the aspect ratio, somehow it got reset to 4:3. Thanks so much for the replies, I'm just relieved it was something simple!


----------



## Bigbrag

Well mine died after 3 months of use. Zero dead pixels and no backlight bleed that I could see. I used an APC UPS on the monitor to keep clean power going to it without any electrical interference or spikes, and kept the power brick out in the open to keep it from overheating. I did everything possible and the monitor still wound up dead. I wouldn't chance purchasing one without at least getting a squaretrade warranty. it was like $42 bucks and so far they are holding their end of the deal. If they follow through, I'll be buying plenty more of their warranties.


----------



## YamiPrem

Got mines today! It's a Q271 and zero dead pixels!









Coming from a 21.5" monitor, this is a massive change.









Now I'm looking for good color profiles to see if I can make it better (although, I doubt it can get any better than it already is!).

Thanks OCers, I wouldn't have known about this monitor if it weren't for yas!


----------



## ex582

hi, i dont kno much about monitors and stuff but i heard catleaps r good.

but i've also heard ppl taking apart their catleaps to fix backlight bleeding, etc. what are some other known problems that you have to fix upon receiving?

i just want to dbl check cuz i dont want to open up a monitor since i would have no idea what im doing and destroy it.


----------



## Royraiden

How is the performance hit from 1080p to 1440p?I read somewhere that at this resolution AA is not needed, is it true?Also would my 5850 support 1440p? I intend to buy a gtx 680 anyways though.


----------



## soldieroftafari

Well that is worrisome about yours breaking! I just got mine today and had my expectations set low but everything works, no dead pixels, and faint backlight bleeding that doesn't bother me at all and I am the pickiest of the picky. I am purchasing that squaretrade warranty *now*. $350 shipped with the squaretrade isnt bad at all considering the quality and color accuracy I am seeing here. I do graphics work, and though some arent reccomending it for such, this is a huge "leap" over what I was using before. I did at one point have a very expensive samsung (part number I forget) and it didnt hold a candle to this. These monitors give me the same feeling I get when im at frys in the apple sections looking at their amazing though overpriced displays.

old samsung (sold it for a 1080p 32" before I went to the catleap):









new catleap (mine came to california with NO OUTER BOX from greensum, I was worried at first but everything seems to be ok):


----------



## Nulled

Green-sum just shipped the black version of the Q270. Hopefully it comes to my house before the end of the week.


----------



## N256

I ordered a 2703 from green-sum on the 14th and received it on the 20th. No dead pixels and minimal backlight issues. I was expecting to get at least ten dead pixels because of all the posts about BCC not having any that meet his already ridiculous 15-pixel warranty (green-sum has a similar (same?) policy on dead pixels), so getting none was a pleasant surprise. As people have said, the stand is seriously flimsy. I have cats who like to jump on things, so I went with a really cheap desk mount from monoprice. I wouldn't trust that mount alone with the monitor, but combined with the stand that comes with it, there's no chance of it falling over.

How can I tell if the glass made it on?


----------



## wkstar

I think we need a Club of happy 2703 Owners
I also have ZERO pixel issues,
The people with scary posts most likely do not own a 2703

I have No problem with the stand, My cat knows his place
He likes to keep breathing


----------



## Munchkinpuncher

There is definitely a performance hit, It depends on the user I guess if they need AA at this resolution. I still like to add at least x2.
@royraiden

srry didnt quote properly


----------



## ivanlabrie

Would you guys advise to get a Shimian QH270 from Red-cap, or a Catleap 2703 from bigclothcraft?
I want to pull the trigger, but I'm not sure what to do.
Thanks!


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Would you guys advise to get a Shimian QH270 from Red-cap, or a Catleap 2703 from bigclothcraft?
> I want to pull the trigger, but I'm not sure what to do.
> Thanks!


Everything ive heard about redcloth hasn't been good so far. Stick with green and BCC


----------



## silverD

I thought I'd share info on the QH270-Lite perfect pixel I bought from Red-Cap. I made the purchase late in the night on Aug 16th and received it the morning of the 20th.
Here is the tracking info:







Only 1 pixel with an issue that only seems detectable when displaying red on the right hand side of LCD.
I will be doing some more in depth testing in the next few days, but am very pleased so far!
Thanks for all the great info in this thread.
silverD


----------



## mgmtm3

I will join that group. Perfect Yamakasi 2703. No dead/stuck pixels and no back light bleed to speak of. I am pretty OCD about monitors so I checked pretty well.


----------



## YamiPrem

WHat do you guys set your DPI to?


----------



## andrewbub

lurked this thread several times over the past year. i purchased a yamakasi catleap q270 about 3 months ago from green sum and it has been wonderful so far. my monitor has recently run in to some problems that weren't described in the troubleshooting faq at the top of this thread.

the power brick will have a solid green LED when not plugged into the monitor. when i plug it in, i get a flashing red LED on the monitor and flashing green LED on the power brick.

i purchased a replacement power supply mentioned above, and it does absolutely nothing, no LED activity at all from the monitor.

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
7950

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
12.8, yes

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
i'm currently using the DVI cable that came with the catleap on a working monitor

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
yes

4. Tried any of the other things listed above?
bought new replacement ac adapter, didn't fix

any suggestions would be great


----------



## griffulas

Hey im in the market for a catleap right now but im wondering, i plan to run it with two side monitors probalby some 1440x900 20 inches or something will my GTX 670 be enough to run to run a catleap theoretically at 120hz plus the two other monitors?


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *N256*
> 
> I ordered a 2703 from green-sum on the 14th and received it on the 20th. No dead pixels and minimal backlight issues. I was expecting to get at least ten dead pixels because of all the posts about BCC not having any that meet his already ridiculous 15-pixel warranty (green-sum has a similar (same?) policy on dead pixels), so getting none was a pleasant surprise. As people have said, the stand is seriously flimsy. I have cats who like to jump on things, so I went with a really cheap desk mount from monoprice. I wouldn't trust that mount alone with the monitor, but combined with the stand that comes with it, there's no chance of it falling over.
> How can I tell if the glass made it on?


I cant figure this out. I ordered a 2703 from dream seller on the 10th of august - yes the 10th. It is now the 21st and he said he STILL didn't have any in stock to sell me. You ordered yours on the 14th and already got yours on the 20th.

I just told him to cancel my order and refund my money. Unbelievable how long I've waited. I put this warning out there to others too, for I saw they were having similar issues with dream seller not having stock and If I recall, at least one other person in this thread was in the same boat as me. They ordered on the 10th and was basically getting the same ebay messages sent to them as I was getting.

Oh well. Its not like I cared about these past 11 days of sitting in limbo or anything :/

Edit: it was dream seller and not green sum. My mistake.


----------



## 2ted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lynxxyarly*
> 
> I cant figure this out. I ordered a 2703 from green-sum on the 10th of august - yes the 10th. It is now the 21st and he said he STILL didn't have any in stock to sell me. You ordered yours on the 14th and already got yours on the 20th.
> I just told him to cancel my order and refund my money. Unbelievable how long I've waited just to see someone else order after me and get their monitor shipped to them no problem. I have no idea what is up, but I will definitely not be buying anything from green-sum. I put this warning out there to others too, for I saw they were having similar issues with green-sum not having stock and If I recall, at least one other person in this thread was in the same boat as me. They ordered on the 10th and was basically getting the same ebay messages sent to them as I was getting.
> Oh well. Its not like I cared about these past 11 days of sitting in limbo or anything :/


I thought you ordered from dream seller? I ordered 2703 on 10th too, but he said he didn't have any supply; he said he got like 12, but all of them have bad pixels. He is sending me the qh270 lite perfect with the additional 110v power adapter for free (which he charges extra for from what I've seen).


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> I thought you ordered from dream seller? I ordered 2703 on 10th too, but he said he didn't have any supply; he said he got like 12, but all of them have bad pixels. He is sending me the qh270 lite perfect with the additional 110v power adapter for free (which he charges extra for from what I've seen).


Aye it was dream seller I edited my post to reflect that.


----------



## 2ted

@lynxxyarly
So, you told dream seller that you didn't want the shimian replacement?


----------



## YamiPrem

This may be trivial, but my whites appear a bit blue-ish. Changing color temperature just makes it look like another color. How do I get accurate white? :/


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YamiPrem*
> 
> This may be trivial, but my whites appear a bit blue-ish. Changing color temperature just makes it look like another color. How do I get accurate white? :/


Try Calibrize, it'll let you adjust RGB levels and that alone might take care of it.

http://www.calibrize.com/

Does anyone know anything the majority of OCN doesn't know regarding the Yamakasi deal to offer special monitors for OCN?


----------



## 161029

That's still going on? I never really payed attention to that. If we do get those monitors, I'd be happy to buy one and debezel it (and overclock it).


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> That's still going on? I never really payed attention to that. If we do get those monitors, I'd be happy to buy one and debezel it (and overclock it).


Someone a few posts ago said they should be ready in a week.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> But i did here about a U.S deal about to go down that will be selling 2560x1440p monitors at 60mhz with dvi only($319) and a version with all of the video outputs with an option to upgrade to 120mhz($369). PM me for details if you don't already know about it. But if its true then you will be able to get this deal with a one year warranty in about 7-10 days from now.


Not sure if he was referring to the OCN deal, but I assume he was because I haven't heard of any other US deals going on. The OCN poll received over 700 votes for "Yes, I'd buy one," and if Yamakasi/their sellers don't jump on that, they're losing on easy business. All they have to do is give us good quality assurance testing, guaranteed perfect pixels and no bleed for those that pay the extra $60.


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> @lynxxyarly
> So, you told dream seller that you didn't want the shimian replacement?


that's correct. Really the deal breaker was that I wanted tempered glass. Its gonna be my downfall. I'll order one with the glass and now I'll have a lot of dust behind it. I haven't decided what new one I'll order yet. Maybe try and order a 2703 from bcc. Or a crossover 27q from ta planet


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Someone a few posts ago said they should be ready in a week.










I want one really bad, but I only have $1000 to spend on a first build. I only have a keyboard. I'm spending another $500 on headphones and a DAC/amp unit, so if I did get the monitor, I'd only have $600 for the computer. We can't have everything, unfortunately.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want one really bad, but I only have $1000 to spend on a first build. I only have a keyboard. I'm spending another $500 on headphones and a DAC/amp unit, so if I did get the monitor, I'd only have $600 for the computer. We can't have everything, unfortunately.


buy turtle beaches and call it a day, don't spend 500 on headphones right now.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want one really bad, but I only have $1000 to spend on a first build. I only have a keyboard. I'm spending another $500 on headphones and a DAC/amp unit, so if I did get the monitor, I'd only have $600 for the computer. We can't have everything, unfortunately.


I suppose it depends on what gives you your kicks.

I'd take excellent picture quality and average sound quality any day of the week.


----------



## y2kcamaross

After owning this for 5 months now, it's still randomly shutting the screen off after exiting games, at first I thought it was battlefield 3 only, but it's been happening in other games too, day Z and darksiders 2 as well, Ive reinstalled the monitor driver multiple times and updated graphics card drivers plenty of times in the last 5 months. Is this happening for anyone else? It can go 3 weeks without happening, but then it might happen 5 times in one day. It's very elusive and I can't pinpoint what's causing it.


----------



## Nulled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> After owning this for 5 months now, it's still randomly shutting the screen off after exiting games, at first I thought it was battlefield 3 only, but it's been happening in other games too, day Z and darksiders 2 as well, Ive reinstalled the monitor driver multiple times and updated graphics card drivers plenty of times in the last 5 months. Is this happening for anyone else? It can go 3 weeks without happening, but then it might happen 5 times in one day. It's very elusive and I can't pinpoint what's causing it.


What model do you have and who was the supplier you bought it from?


----------



## griffulas

I defiantly want to buy a Catleap, i know nobody can direct me to specific vendors but can anyone tell me what exaclty im looking for they all seem pretty similar as far as features etc
Pixel Perfect worth it?
Warranty?
etc


----------



## Tyler4fun

Just got my catleap from BBC bought it perfect pixel and it came with no problems. Looks fonominal and only took 3 days after buying it to get here. Very pleased.


----------



## IcedEarth

The 2703 is newer but seems to have more dead pixels. They only guarantee up to 15 dead pixels.

The Q270 is the same IPS panel but is guaranteed uo to 5 dead pixels.

None of the dead pixels will be in the center of the screen.

Personally for the Q270 I wouldn't pay more for a pixel perfect version because 5 dead pixels would hardly be noticeable.

They also come with/without tempered glass (known to have dust stuck behind the glass) so most prefer it without glass.

They come with/without speakers.

Also with/without HDMI. It has been said that the HDMI version suffers input lag, so most prefer it without HDMI.

I'd personally (and will) get a Q270 without the tempered glass and HDMI, that has <5 dead pixels.

The warranty is definitely worth it.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> What model do you have and who was the supplier you bought it from?


q270se and im not sure but i think greensum, not sure how that's relevant


----------



## Nulled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> q270se and im not sure but i think greensum, not sure how that's relevant


Oh, I just wanted to get an idea if I was going to receive a defect. IDK about your specific issues!

Also, does anyone knows if the power adapter that comes with the monitor will work in North America or would I need a separate adapter? If it's the latter could you provide a link where to get an adapter for it?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> Oh, I just wanted to get an idea if I was going to receive a defect. IDK about your specific issues!
> Also, does anyone knows if the power adapter that comes with the monitor will work in North America or would I need a separate adapter? If it's the latter could you provide a link where to get an adapter for it?


It works fine


----------



## IcedEarth

The supplied power adapter will work. All you need is a USA kettle lead like from your power supply.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> buy turtle beaches and call it a day, don't spend 500 on headphones right now.


Notsureifserious.jpg

Turtle beach will be the last thing I'd get.

I'm looking into the more bang-for-your buck headphones. The JVC HA-S500 seems promising from all the owners so far, but it probably won't be a giant killer that costs $60. I'm interested in how the Fidelio X1 sounds as it's said that Philip's Fidelio line of headphones actually sound pretty good. My current choice is a Q701. It seems to have good synergy with the O2, and I can get both for $260 (Q701 from Amazon, O2 + ODAC combo from JDS labs).


----------



## Descadent

love my turtle beach earforce deltas (xp 500) can't beat all wireless and has dual bluetooth. I use them for work too.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> love my turtle beach earforce deltas (xp 500) can't beat all wireless and has dual bluetooth. I use them for work too.


It seems somebody hasn't heard the world of hi-fi, or has and can't justify spending that much money for it.

I'm not trying to bash you, I'm just saying.


----------



## Descadent

audio isn't a big deal to everyone, yes it may sound better, but you'll pay for it. Just like this monitors look better, and you pay for it.

different strokes different folks

and my TB's are just to multi-useful.


----------



## keiths

There is something bugging me about these displays, they're small. The panel is only 10" high, which is about equal to the height of the display of a 17" CRT. A 19" is 11" high, a 21" is 12". The panel of the dell 2412m 24" 1920x1200 is 14.25" high. In the context I relate to, the catleaps etc. are in essence widescreen versions of 17" monitors. Where is a 12 or 14.25 inch high 2560x1440 monitor? As I want an upgrade in screen size, not a down grade.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> There is something bugging me about these displays, they're small. The panel is only 10" high, which is about equal to the height of the display of a 17" CRT. A 19" is 11" high, a 21" is 12". The panel of the dell 2412m 24" 1920x1200 is 14.25" high. In the context I relate to, the catleaps etc. are in essence widescreen versions of 17" monitors. Where is a 12 or 14.25 inch high 2560x1440 monitor? As I want an upgrade in screen size, not a down grade.


You do realize that you don't have to like these screens or/and buy them. Go get an upgrade as you have suggested and tell us how much you paid and how well you like it.


----------



## keiths

Yay, a defensive response.

>Go get an upgrade as you have suggested and tell us how much you paid and how well you like it

Where is a 12 or 14.25 inch high 2560x1440 monitor?


----------



## SmaShTr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> It works fine


The power brick works fine indeed... for a while.

As others have mentioned, it gets extremely warm. This appears to cause some damage over time. My monitor has been working fine for 3 or 4 months, and now the power brick sometimes starts blinking and the monitor gives me no picture. I have to unplug the power, wait for a few minutes, then plug it back in and it works fine. I would definitely use something else if possible.

Does anyone know where I can get a better power brick?


----------



## Descadent

i don't know where you get your measurements from but the panel itself is over 13" tall and 23.5" wide.

theres nothing small about that and yes i just measured it for you


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Yay, a defensive response.
> >Go get an upgrade as you have suggested and tell us how much you paid and how well you like it
> Where is a 12 or 14.25 inch high 2560x1440 monitor?


Guess i caught you with your pants down, check my logo


----------



## keiths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> i don't know where you get your measurements from but the panel itself is over 13" tall and 23.5" wide.
> theres nothing small about that and yes i just measured it for you


Thanks for measuring. I'm not concerned about the width, I know they're wide, and the measurements come from the advertizements.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-Computer-Monitor-x-10pcs-/110872044230?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d07d22c6

505mm tall - 259mm base = 246mm = 9.685 inches.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> There is something bugging me about these displays, they're small. The panel is only 10" high, which is about equal to the height of the display of a 17" CRT. A 19" is 11" high, a 21" is 12". The panel of the dell 2412m 24" 1920x1200 is 14.25" high. In the context I relate to, the catleaps etc. are in essence widescreen versions of 17" monitors. Where is a 12 or 14.25 inch high 2560x1440 monitor? As I want an upgrade in screen size, not a down grade.


Am I missing something? A 16x9 monitor is 49% and a 16x10 is 53% high relative to the diagonal measurement.

A 24" 1920x1200 is 12.72" high.

These 27" panels are 13.23" high.

Where are you getting your info?


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Thanks for measuring. I'm not concerned about the width, I know they're wide, and the measurements come from the advertizements.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-Computer-Monitor-x-10pcs-/110872044230?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d07d22c6
> 505mm tall - 259mm base = 246mm = 9.685 inches.


look at the pictures properly. The 259mm is the DIAMETER of the base resting on your desk. Nothing to do with the screen.


----------



## Descadent

man i just measured it for you

do I have to take a pic for you?

honestly logically. how could it be 9.6 inches with a 27" screen


----------



## keiths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> look at the pictures properly. The 259mm is the DIAMETER of the base resting on your desk. Nothing to do with the screen.


For that to represent the diameter, you would have to look at their picture askew. What they show properly represents vertical measurement. If that's meant to represent diameter, they messed up on showing it, as what they're representing in the graphic is height.


----------



## keiths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> man i just measured it for you
> do I have to take a pic for you?
> honestly logically. how could it be 9.6 inches with a 27" screen


Math.

http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html

Enter 27 for side c, 25.2 for side b.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Math.
> http://www.csgnetwork.com/righttricalc.html
> Enter 27 for side c, 25.2 for side b.


OK

ok this debate is over here mr. math


----------



## keiths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> OK
> ok this debate is over here mr. math


Actually, your picture wouldn't end this debate, it doesn't show the whole screen and measurement from top to bottom


----------



## Descadent

I only have two hands, and my arm length is only so long, and you will just accept that picture...

good day sir.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I measured mine, the dimensions inside the bezel, the size of the screen you look at, the viewing surface - whatever you want to call it:

23.5" Wide X 13.25" High

Math? It's a 16:9 monitor.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Actually, your picture wouldn't end this debate, it doesn't show the whole screen and measurement from top to bottom


I do hope you're trolling.

If not, please don't have children.


----------



## keiths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jsmoother2012*
> 
> I do hope you're trolling.
> If not, please don't have children.


At least you had an inkling, yes, I was ribbing him


----------



## Descadent

fail try though, i only posted a picture so others who read this thread would not be mislead with nonsensical 9" height theory on a 16x9 27" monitor


----------



## debaser

I bought a Catleap Q270 SE from green-sum and it's faulty. Green-sum has not yet responded to messages after 3 days, and I'm about to escalate a PayPal dispute. Will let you know how it goes.

Edit: green-sum subsequently paid for pick up


----------



## andrewbub

reposting this because it's now buried five pages deeper:

lurked this thread several times over the past year. i purchased a yamakasi catleap q270 about 3 months ago from green sum and it has been wonderful so far. my monitor has recently run in to some problems that weren't described in the troubleshooting faq at the top of this thread.

the power brick will have a solid green LED when not plugged into the monitor. when i plug it in, i get a flashing red LED on the monitor and flashing green LED on the power brick.

i purchased a replacement power supply mentioned above, and it does absolutely nothing, no LED activity at all from the monitor.

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
7950

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
12.8, yes

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
i'm currently using the DVI cable that came with the catleap on a working monitor

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
yes

4. Tried any of the other things listed above?
bought new replacement ac adapter, didn't fix

any suggestions would be great


----------



## FishHeadswg

Finally got an update on that broken monitor if anyone is still wondering.
Quote:


> Dear ----,
> 
> We have received the final contacts from the FedEx.
> FedEx does not fully compensated and the reason is between the shipping time of completion is too long and
> they have been emphasized this.
> I also did my best effort to receive the maximum compensation but I could not help it.
> The amount of compensation is $ 200 and this amount will be sent to you.
> I will wait for your answer.
> 
> - pallascospi


It beats getting nothing, though I would've preferred a full refund. Can't really blame the guy, though, it was clearly FedEx's fault.

He also gave me his FedEx acct and is paying for the return shipping.

I would say it's safe to add this guy to the reputable seller list. He didn't flake like I was worried due to the whole shipping time issue where it was sitting on my porch for 2 weeks and actually came through in the end.


----------



## BoredErica

Does anybody know the dot pitch on these?


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:
Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg* 

Finally got an update on that broken monitor if anyone is still wondering.
It beats getting nothing, though I would've preferred a full refund. Can't really blame the guy, though, it was clearly FedEx's fault.
He also gave me his FedEx acct and is paying for the return shipping.
I would say it's safe to add this guy to the reputable seller list. He didn't flake like I was worried due to the whole shipping time issue where it was sitting on my porch for 2 weeks and actually came through in the end.

Thanks for letting us know, I was going to ask had there been any update/news,

Quote:
Originally Posted by *Dafty* 

Package arrived today, however only one of monitors?








When I went to ebay I ordered a perfect pixel monitor from green-sum and put the quantity at 3.
The payment of $1200 or so went through and everything, however only one showed up today.
Now the DHL tracking says delivered successfully, but what about the other two?

Any update, a worrying situation to say the least ?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/7440_30#post_17895039

Quote:
Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2* 

Eh. It's not like they ship all 3 in one box.



> Don't worry about it bro. You are waiting on 3 packages to ship all the way from South Korea! They aren't going to ship three twenty lb monitors in one big box. They ship it separately.. *derp derp.* I say give it more time. The one you got early could have been a fluke too. You did order during their holiday in which no one worked so maybe they had time to ship out your one monitor and not the other two. Then the holiday hit and now your two monitors are stuck in a giant pile waiting to all ship out. Their shipping people are trying to play catch up so I'd chill out. Besides that, you ordered from a well known, well respected seller who isn't going to screw you over. I'd email them and ask for someone to call about the situation.










Do you just make this stuff up in your head and the pass it of as fact ?

From none other than Green-Sum.



http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/7440_30#post_17895039


----------



## quakermaas

Double Bubble.....oops


----------



## kimbernator

After nearly a week, the tracking number from DHL is finally returning something. It left Korea around 6am Pacific time today and is headed for Portland. Here's to hoping that I get it tomorrow. BCC seemed to ship this one rather slowly.

EDIT: it's in Cincinnati. Let's see if they can fly it to Portland and put it out for delivery sometime tomorrow. Crossing my fingers...


----------



## saros

Just got my Catleap Q271 Multi. Purchased last Wednesday from BCC and arrived on Tuesday. From what I can tell only 2 dead pixels that are off to the side and some slight backlight bleeding but nothing so distracting. The stand is a bit wobbly, but thats to be expected.

Overall I couldn't be happier with this purchase.

I guess one concern is the power brick feels quite warm under use.. I am wondering if there is a better alternative that doesn't get as hot.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

The first one in that link, the EFL-2202W Adapter from cbk_usa_electronics, is the one I bought. It runs cooler than the stock brick and my stock brick was very unreliable.


----------



## 2ted

Anyone heard of FCC form? Fedex contacted me to see if I can fill this out. When I called and told the Fedex person that I didn't know what it was, she said that form needs manufacturer information/address etc, so the shipper should have included it. Now my package will be delayed at least one day which sucks. I haven't heard anything about this for shipments to U.S.


----------



## Nulled

Quote:


> Arrived at Delivery Facility in ONTARIO SERVICE AREA - CANADA ONTARIO SERVICE AREA, ON - CANADA 10:01


Should be here within the hour.


----------



## KarmaKiller

Remember guys, Ebay links are not allowed.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

So which to get? Catleap, Shimian, or Crossover? Decisions, decisions...


----------



## soldieroftafari

After seeing the catleap in person, I honestly think its the best looking one. The crossover looks great on their photoshopped advertisements but the catleap does its best samsung tv impression and pull it off surprisingly well. Though I know its cheaply made I don't think it looks bad on my desk at all.


----------



## Tephnos

I'd have to disagree - the crossover is definitely the nicest looking one. Plastic just can't compete with metal for sheer looks.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> I'd have to disagree - the crossover is definitely the nicest looking one. Plastic just can't compete with metal for sheer looks.


agreed. all metal casing and better stand is why I choose 3 crossovers.


----------



## soldieroftafari

I need to see one of those crossovers in person! I read halfway through these pages and ordered a catleap, then found out about the crossover and emailed greensum but it had already shipped. NO regrets though!


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldieroftafari*
> 
> I need to see one of those crossovers in person! I read halfway through these pages and ordered a catleap, then found out about the crossover and emailed greensum but it had already shipped. NO regrets though!


http://www.overclock.net/t/1280755/review-tests-crossover-27q-led-p-pivot-edition-gallery-with-apple-cinema-display

That thread has pretty good pictures of it.


----------



## soldieroftafari

Great post! Its very nice to see these panels compared right up against the apple and yes, considering the whole thing is metal, the crossover looks cooler I admit. I just cant stop staring at this screen!


----------



## kimbernator

Just got mine in the mail. Seriously, I can't find a single dead pixel and I can't find any backlight bleed. I didn't even order a perfect pixel! However, the first time I had it on, there was a very weird line at the top row of pixels that was sort of flickering. I turned the monitor off and back on and now it's perfect.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldieroftafari*
> 
> Great post! Its very nice to see these panels compared right up against the apple and yes, considering the whole thing is metal, the crossover looks cooler I admit. I just cant stop staring at this screen!


check my sig for more pictures if you need them.


----------



## Peener

I just stubbed upon this site and very please. I am in the market for a new monitor and these seem amazing. I am looking for one that is overclockable and in white. Which one do you recommend.


----------



## Cavey00

Peener, I don't think you are going to find one that is overclockable if you read through some of this forum. However a white one is easy to come across if you just search Ebay for "white catleap". Several vendors have them.


----------



## Peener

Are the crossover's better quality? I have seen that the catleap's base is not very sturdy and leans. Is that the same for the crossovers?


----------



## kimbernator

Here's mine. Got in in the mail less than 48hrs after shipping from BCC. I can't find any dead pixels. It's next to my 23'' 1080p monitor.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peener*
> 
> Are the crossover's better quality? I have seen that the catleap's base is not very sturdy and leans. Is that the same for the crossovers?


Crossover has a better base/exterior build quality, it's also a little more expensive because of that. As for the catleap, mine doesn't wobble when I type on my keyboard or move my mouse, so unless there is an earthquake going on, the stand is just fine. but it might depend on the desk as well, mine is pretty sturdy so that's probably why I don't see what the fuss is all about.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Peener*
> 
> Are the crossover's better quality? I have seen that the catleap's base is not very sturdy and leans. Is that the same for the crossovers?
> 
> 
> 
> Crossover has a better base/exterior build quality, it's also a little more expensive because of that. As for the catleap, mine doesn't wobble when I type on my keyboard or move my mouse, so unless there is an earthquake going on, the stand is just fine. but it might depend on the desk as well, mine is pretty sturdy so that's probably why I don't see what the fuss is all about.
Click to expand...

It's a little hard to justify the $100 difference sometimes though...


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> Anyone heard of FCC form? Fedex contacted me to see if I can fill this out. When I called and told the Fedex person that I didn't know what it was, she said that form needs manufacturer information/address etc, so the shipper should have included it. Now my package will be delayed at least one day which sucks. I haven't heard anything about this for shipments to U.S.


Yes... FCC Customs Forum 740... basically the monitor you are importing is not FCC certified to be allowed for sale and distribution in USA... You have to answer questions to show it is not for sale or distribution in the USA and that you are knowingly importing a device that may omit or interfere with communication devices, or not authorized by the FCC.... something along that line... Good Luck!


----------



## Nulled

The monitor is sharp, clear, HUGE, and most of all, NO DEAD PIXELS!

Green-sum did well. DHL did drop it when bringing it to my door by luckily the packaging secured it.

paid total of 15$ in "processing fees" no custom charges. and I live in Canada.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Peener*
> 
> I just stubbed upon this site and very please. I am in the market for a new monitor and these seem amazing. I am looking for one that is overclockable and in white. Which one do you recommend.


Read.The.First.Post.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

^I fell out of my chair laughing since this has been my mantra since February.

Thanks Dark!!!


----------



## CRosko42

Well, my monitor stand is sitting at the local UPS so I can finally take off this horrible stand tomorrow.

My desk is solid, but its on a thick carpet so it can move slightly whenever I tap my foot while leaning on it (most of the time thats what I'm doing lol).

Nothing else moves except my display due to the whole stand being so flimsy. Been dealing with it for the better part of 6 months, time to get it done right.

Hopefully taking it apart is as easy as the first post makes it seem, I'll put up pictures when it's done of a before/after.

Picked up this stand.


----------



## sugiik

im From Indonesia,
any info how,where to buy this yamakasi's ?


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sugiik*
> 
> im From Indonesia,
> any info how,where to buy this yamakasi's ?


Ebay

Before asking any questions, please read the first post.

90% of all information on the Yamakasi monitor is detailed in that post.


----------



## Charade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> The monitor is sharp, clear, HUGE, and most of all, NO DEAD PIXELS!
> Green-sum did well. DHL did drop it when bringing it to my door by luckily the packaging secured it.
> paid total of 15$ in "processing fees" no custom charges. and I live in Canada.


Silly question but did they demand money on the spot? Mine should be arriving today but don't have CC or cash on me where its being delivered.


----------



## Delphiwizard

I don't know how it is in the rest of the world but over here in belgium DHL does not accept cash and you will not recieve the package without paying the fee/import taxes.
I picked mine up at the dhl depot after a dhl lady called to settle it over the phone with visa and because i rather not discuss visa info over the phone (and i wanted my monitor asap).

I very much doubt you'll get the package without paying the fee, wether u can pay cash or not, here they don't accept it.


----------



## Descadent

if your in the U.S. we have a free trade agreement with Korea and there shouldn't be any worries


----------



## Degree

Anyone else having problems with keeping the screen clean lol
I don't get how it gets so dirty fast, and anyone know the best way to clean?


----------



## mgmtm3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone else having problems with keeping the screen clean lol
> I don't get how it gets so dirty fast, and anyone know the best way to clean?


I just use a microfiber cloth and some LCD cleaner solution. Should be easy to find online.


----------



## Heff04

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *griffulas*
> 
> I defiantly want to buy a Catleap, i know nobody can direct me to specific vendors but can anyone tell me what exaclty im looking for they all seem pretty similar as far as features etc
> Pixel Perfect worth it?
> Warranty?
> etc


I bought the Catleap 2703 from BBC with the tempered glass and I am VERY pleased with it.. Shipping was stupid fast only 3 days!. I was confused on the the other auctions he had that seemed to be the same product for different prices so I went with the cheaper one. I did not buy the warranty. I did not get any dead pixels and I have almost no light bleed. This is really a solid monitor. Going to purchase another one very very soon. The glass makes it look better in my opinion though I can see how it would get on some peoples nerves with the reflections. However, I have no issues with it! I hope this helps.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mgmtm3*
> 
> I just use a microfiber cloth and some LCD cleaner solution. Should be easy to find online.


Thanks for the help, I've been using a microfiber and warm water, guessing LCD solution would be better


----------



## ADDreen

I also just bought a Catleap 2703 off of BBC (tempered glass)...INCREDIBLE...
I have it next to my Dell Ultrasharp IPS monitor and it puts it to shame.
Ridiculous 2 day shipping from Korea!
No dead pixels, no light bleed.
Flawless, and dirt cheap at 300USD.
Thanks BBC!


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ADDreen*
> 
> I also just bought a Catleap 2703 off of BBC (tempered glass)...INCREDIBLE...
> I have it next to my Dell Ultrasharp IPS monitor and it puts it to shame.
> Ridiculous 2 day shipping from Korea!
> No dead pixels, no light bleed.
> Flawless, and dirt cheap at 300USD.
> Thanks BBC!


First time I've heard of the the 2703, how does t compare to the q270?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ADDreen*
> 
> I also just bought a Catleap 2703 off of BBC (tempered glass)...INCREDIBLE...
> I have it next to my Dell Ultrasharp IPS monitor and it puts it to shame.
> Ridiculous 2 day shipping from Korea!
> No dead pixels, no light bleed.
> Flawless, and dirt cheap at 300USD.
> Thanks BBC!
> 
> 
> 
> First time I've heard of the the 2703, how does t compare to the q270?
Click to expand...

I believe the only difference is the stand.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I believe the only difference is the stand.


So the stand is a lot better?


----------



## Descadent

check first post on the models


----------



## Nulled

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Charade*
> 
> Silly question but did they demand money on the spot? Mine should be arriving today but don't have CC or cash on me where its being delivered.


Yeah. Mine was DHL so it could be free if it's fedex or UPS.


----------



## Charade

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nulled*
> 
> Yeah. Mine was DHL so it could be free if it's fedex or UPS.


Ok just got mine. Had to pay $13 duty. Not bad.

Ordered a Multi and it has 1 dead pixel. I can live with that.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I believe the only difference is the stand.
> 
> 
> 
> So the stand is a lot better?
Click to expand...

I believe the stand is worse. I don't remember exactly...it's the standard stands you find on the Shimian, except, of course, this one's different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> check first post on the models


The OP only contains information about the Q270 I believe, not the 2703.


----------



## IcedEarth

The 2703 is just a different style monitor to the Q270 in terms of external design and a different stand.

For some reason the IPS panel also has a higher rate of 'dead pixels' so most places will only guarantee returns above 15 dead pixels (where as the Q270 can be returned if it has over 5 dead pixels.)

Also, I believe the 2703 only comes with tempered glass, so those who don't want tempered glass won't be purchasing the 2703.

There only seems to be one 'specification' for the 2703 which is tempered glass, speakers included, no OSD, single input (dual DVI link) and can have a higher rate of dead pixels. This is why it is cheaper than the Q270. The Q270 has multiple different specifications and has fewer dead pixels on average.

These are the only differences I know of.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> The 2703 is just a different style monitor to the Q270 in terms of external design and a different stand.
> 
> For some reason the IPS panel also has a higher rate of 'dead pixels' so most places will only guarantee returns above 15 dead pixels (where as the Q270 can be returned if it has over 5 dead pixels.)
> 
> Also, I believe the 2703 only comes with tempered glass, so those who don't want tempered glass won't be purchasing the 2703.
> 
> There only seems to be one 'specification' for the 2703 which is tempered glass, speakers included, no OSD, single input (dual DVI link) and can have a higher rate of dead pixels. This is why it is cheaper than the Q270. The Q270 has multiple different specifications and has fewer dead pixels on average.
> 
> These are the only differences I know of.


Hm...well, it won't make a difference if we get a pixel perfect version of either one...so...yup.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Hm...well, it won't make a difference if we get a pixel perfect version of either one...so...yup.


I've yet to see any Ebay e-tailer offering a pixel free variant of the 2703. This leads me to believe that a pixel free variant is few and far between, meaning the probability of actually getting a pixel free variant is very slim.

However, at that resolution even 15 dead pixels will be barely noticeable if they're dispersed.

It all depends on how much you want to pay. Personally I would rather pay the £15 extra for a Q270 with <5 dead pixels rather than risk it, I also like the look of the Q270. However everyone is different and for the price you can't really go wrong with either choice.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> Hm...well, it won't make a difference if we get a pixel perfect version of either one...so...yup.
> 
> 
> 
> I've yet to see any Ebay e-tailer offering a pixel free variant of the 2703. This leads me to believe that a pixel free variant is few and far between, meaning the probability of actually getting a pixel free variant is very slim.
> 
> However, at that resolution even 15 dead pixels will be barely noticeable if they're dispersed.
> 
> It all depends on how much you want to pay. Personally I would rather pay the £15 extra for a Q270 with <5 dead pixels rather than risk it, I also like the look of the Q270. However everyone is different and for the price you can't really go wrong with either choice.
Click to expand...

The stand is slightly more functional, as it allows for turning without having to move the entire base. The stand of the 2703 is just a solid stand that probably only allows for tilt adjustments.


----------



## mgmtm3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> The 2703 is just a different style monitor to the Q270 in terms of external design and a different stand.
> For some reason the IPS panel also has a higher rate of 'dead pixels' so most places will only guarantee returns above 15 dead pixels (where as the Q270 can be returned if it has over 5 dead pixels.)
> Also, I believe the 2703 only comes with tempered glass, so those who don't want tempered glass won't be purchasing the 2703.
> There only seems to be one 'specification' for the 2703 which is tempered glass, speakers included, no OSD, single input (dual DVI link) and can have a higher rate of dead pixels. This is why it is cheaper than the Q270. The Q270 has multiple different specifications and has fewer dead pixels on average.
> These are the only differences I know of.


I have ordered two 2703's so far and both of them had zero dead pixels or backlight bleed issues. Also everyone who has posted that I have seen with a 2703 have had perfect screens, that does not mean they are all perfect but I am just saying what I have seen so far (just check back a couple pages and you will see what I am talking about). Green-Sum sells a $305.00 version with the 5 dead pixel guarantee and a 295.00 version with the 15 pixel policy. I usually see the Q270 go for 300-310 bucks so that puts in right in the same range unless you want the pixel perfect. I think there is no option yet for pixel perfect probably just because it is not as popular as the Q270. The 2703 has (IMO) a better stand then the Q270, it may not have the swivel but it feels a lot less wobbly and keeps it level with no tilting. The Q270 seems to have more backlight bleed from the case design and it being too tight, I have yet to see any backlight bleed at all from either 2703. This is nothing scientific of course but I have ordered a Q270 and two 2703's and done the research online. Just wanted to throw my opinion in here about the positives of the 2703.


----------



## explodingorca

Sorry for my ignorance and laziness, but I am considering ordering one of these value 1440p monitors. I have a couple questions: firstly, is the catleap still the best one? If so which versions should I get? I appriciate the minimalist look of glass but not if it alters performance and I'm only running one dvi/hdmi input. Lastly, I am very interested in the over locking function will I be able to get it any higher using my gtx 690 or not? Thanks so much for your patience!


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *explodingorca*
> 
> Sorry for my ignorance and laziness, but I am considering ordering one of these value 1440p monitors. I have a couple questions: firstly, is the catleap still the best one? If so which versions should I get? I appriciate the minimalist look of glass but not if it alters performance and I'm only running one dvi/hdmi input. Lastly, I am very interested in the over locking function will I be able to get it any higher using my gtx 690 or not? Thanks so much for your patience!


1) Catleap, Crossover, Shimians, etc all use the same panel, so they're all equally good. In terms of stand quality, Crossover > Shimian > Catleap. Many people with a solid desk don't have any problem whatsoever with the stand, so that's pretty situational.
2) From cheapest to most expensive usually: Q270 SE = only DVI, no speakers. Q270 = DVI + speakers. Q270 Multi = DVI+HDMI+Speakers
3) Only non-SE and SE catleaps with the 2B serial model number overclock, all other models (whether 2E, 2G, 2C, 2D etc) don't and Multi 2Bs are a scam because they skip frames, so they only do 60Hz even if you OC them. Do a quick google search on where to buy 2B models.


----------



## explodingorca

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *explodingorca*
> 
> Sorry for my ignorance and laziness, but I am considering ordering one of these value 1440p monitors. I have a couple questions: firstly, is the catleap still the best one? If so which versions should I get? I appriciate the minimalist look of glass but not if it alters performance and I'm only running one dvi/hdmi input. Lastly, I am very interested in the over locking function will I be able to get it any higher using my gtx 690 or not? Thanks so much for your patience!
> 
> 
> 
> 1) Catleap, Crossover, Shimians, etc all use the same panel, so they're all equally good. In terms of stand quality, Crossover > Shimian > Catleap. Many people with a solid desk don't have any problem whatsoever with the stand, so that's pretty situational.
> 2) From cheapest to most expensive usually: Q270 SE = only DVI, no speakers. Q270 = DVI + speakers. Q270 Multi = DVI+HDMI+Speakers
> 3) Only non-SE and SE catleaps with the 2B serial model number overclock, all other models (whether 2E, 2G, 2C, 2D etc) don't and Multi 2Bs are a scam because they skip frames, so they only do 60Hz even if you OC them. Do a quick google search on where to buy 2B models.
Click to expand...

Im sorry, but I really couldnt find a Catleap with SPECIFIED 2B PCB. If someone could point one out, perhaps on ebay, that'd be great.


----------



## AcidNfection

Catleap just delivered!!! Hooked it up, and guess what???!!! 0 back light bleed, and 0 dead pixels!!!!!!!!!! Got an email from BCC today as well, thanking me for waiting (took 16 days from ordering to being delivered) and he said he make it his personal job to deliver me a perfect model....and it is!!!!!!!!! 0 problems!!! I'm very impressed with this seller, he goes the extra mile it seems to deliver a quality product!! BCC thank you from the bottom of my gaming heart!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Pics coming soon!!!


----------



## explodingorca

http://120hz.net/content.php?125-Do-Not-Buy-Nvidia-Cards!
uh oh... Well I suppose I'll just by the standard Q270 then...


----------



## kimbernator

HELP! I tried the overclocking guide for AMD on youtube and after trying 70hz my monitor will only do this even in 60hz!

EDIT nevermind.... it was having troubles switching back to 60hz, we're fine now... dang that was scary. Get this and think I broke it withing 2 days.


----------



## debaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *debaser*
> 
> I bought a Catleap Q270 SE from green-sum and it's faulty. Green-sum has not yet responded to messages after 3 days, and I'm about to escalate a PayPal dispute. Will let you know how it goes.


With great disappointment, it looks like I'll be checking out of the Catleap owners club. Despite numerous polite queries, green-sum never once responded to my emails about the faulty screen. The Paypal dispute was resolved in my favour, so I'll be getting a full refund , but I still need to pay over $100 to ship the faulty screen back. Ouch.

As a result of this experience I'd encourage potential buyers to think *very* carefully before buying from green-sum. They have a very good feedback rating, and most likely you'll get a good screen and have no problems. But if you do run into trouble, be aware you'll receive no help or service whatsoever.


----------



## kimbernator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *debaser*
> 
> With great disappointment, it looks like I'll be checking out of the Catleap owners club. Despite numerous polite queries, green-sum never once responded to my emails about the faulty screen. The Paypal dispute was resolved in my favour, so I'll be getting a full refund , but I still need to pay over $100 to ship the faulty screen back. Ouch.
> As a result of this experience I'd encourage potential buyers to think *very* carefully before buying from green-sum. They have a very good feedback rating, and most likely you'll get a good screen and have no problems. But if you do run into trouble, be aware you'll receive no help or service whatsoever.


I can vouch for Bigclothcraft if anyone is looking for an alternative.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Ya im thinking about cheating for now and going with that gorgeous crossover and using my U.S base company for the other two monitors. Decisions Decisions Decisions


----------



## spo0linup

Got my catleap tempered glass q270se yesterday. Hooked it up and it looked great!
Powered everything down and went to bed. Came home from work today and started up my PC. I could smell burning plastic from the back of the monitor... Powered everything off ASAP. Checked power connection, re-seated it and gave it another go.

PC won't post, throwing 7F error for no gfx card present. Monitor won't display any signs of life, not even a red light. Power brick shows solid green.
Monitor won't show anything on another working dual-link PC, and the gfx card isn't working on another PC either.

Already messaged Green-Sum, but after reading 50 or so pages of this thread, it looks like he doesn't enjoy responding to messages about problems, and i might just be out $360.


----------



## debaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimbernator*
> 
> I can vouch for Bigclothcraft if anyone is looking for an alternative.


Thanks, I think I might try with them. It was a great screen for all of two days.


----------



## spo0linup

Here's to hoping that green-sum gets back to me about my monitor. I really don't want to file a dispute, but only because shipping this thing back to korea is going to suck


----------



## Kryptos

I got my Catleap OCed to 67 Hz. At 68 Hz it looks like this.



Back in March 2012, post #997, someone did a PCB swap and talked about sourcing the components. Whatever happened to that?


----------



## debaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spo0linup*
> 
> Here's to hoping that green-sum gets back to me about my monitor. I really don't want to file a dispute, but only because shipping this thing back to korea is going to suck


Based on my recent experience, I suggest you file a dispute immediately and don't expect any response. Conduct any interactions through Paypal resolution centre. I never received any response from Green-sum at all, even after escalating the dispute to paypal. The only thing I heard was from Paypal, saying that the dispute had been resolved in my favour.


----------



## spo0linup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *debaser*
> 
> Based on my recent experience, I suggest you file a dispute immediately and don't expect any response. Conduct any interactions through Paypal resolution centre. I never received any response from Green-sum at all, even after escalating the dispute to paypal. The only thing I heard was from Paypal, saying that the dispute had been resolved in my favour.


but now you're stuck paying $100 to ship it back, yeah?


----------



## debaser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spo0linup*
> 
> but now you're stuck paying $100 to ship it back, yeah?


Sure am. But it's that or be $300 down with an unusable monitor.


----------



## lynxxyarly

Just thought I would chime in and say that I received my catleap 2703 from bigclothcraft today. Ordered Sunday night and It shipped out Monday morning. Was sitting in my house for me when I got home from work today. Not a bad turn around for shipment. Monitor works great and only has 1 stuck blue pixel top left quadrant. I'll get it unstuck, im sure.

Overall, very happy with it.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryptos*
> 
> I got my Catleap OCed to 67 Hz. At 68 Hz it looks like this.
> 
> Back in March 2012, post #997, someone did a PCB swap and talked about sourcing the components. Whatever happened to that?


It's still work in progress. Probably only after 2013 though...


----------



## FishHeadswg

Anyone have experience shipping by billing a 3rd party with FedEx? Do I simply need the account number?

The closest FedEx is 2 hours away, I'd rather not show up and find out I need more information. I called CS but their answer was pretty vague.


----------



## curlyp

*De-Bezeling Yamakasi Catleaps*

Well, I finally de-bezeled my Yamakasi Catleaps. Wow! Does it look so much better.









I am still debating if I should cover the silver lining with black electric tape or leave it. What do you think?

Also, if you want to see more pictures, check out my build log in my signature.























*Here is what it use to look like:*


----------



## FishHeadswg

So, how many games run in 7680x4320 resolution?


----------



## kimbernator

Has anyone had any stuck pixels and dealt with them successfully? I have like ten all of a sudden. Not a dealbreaker but I would enjoy getting rid of them. Could it be a cable issue?


----------



## soldieroftafari

so there is a chance that dead pixels might just show up? I would hope it was a cable issue but I don't think that is more likely. See if you can repair them, maybe there is a better chance since they were actually working at one point before?


----------



## RB Snake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> *De-Bezeling Yamakasi Catleaps*
> Well, I finally de-bezeled my Yamakasi Catleaps. Wow! Does it look so much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still debating if I should cover the silver lining with black electric tape or leave it. What do you think?


Yeah, I would tape it. You can get some really nice glossy electrical tape, I used it on my previous setup.


----------



## 2ted

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lynxxyarly*
> 
> Just thought I would chime in and say that I received my catleap 2703 from bigclothcraft today. Ordered Sunday night and It shipped out Monday morning. Was sitting in my house for me when I got home from work today. Not a bad turn around for shipment. Monitor works great and only has 1 stuck blue pixel top left quadrant. I'll get it unstuck, im sure.
> Overall, very happy with it.


You ended up getting the panel before I did although you switch to bcc and I stuck with dream seller. I checked the tracking and the replacement qh270-lite from dream seller just got here today. After he said he'll ship it out on the 20th, fedex ended up picking it up on 22th. I thought I wouldn't get it until next week and there was a delay with the custom because he didn't fill out the fcc form. Still took only two days for the delivery, so it's really fast!.


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2ted*
> 
> You ended up getting the panel before I did although you switch to bcc and I stuck with dream seller. I checked the tracking and the replacement qh270-lite from dream seller just got here today. After he said he'll ship it out on the 20th, fedex ended up picking it up on 22th. I thought I wouldn't get it until next week and there was a delay with the custom because he didn't fill out the fcc form. Still took only two days for the delivery, so it's really fast!.


Right on. At least you got it. Everything working ok on it? Stuck pixels and the like


----------



## 2ted

I haven't checked it out yet. Just checked tracking and it shows up delivered. It is supposed to be pixel perfect. He also added the 110v power adapter for free. The qh270 lite perfect and the 110v adapter is priced at 350 in his store and I paid 290. Ended up saving 60 bucks for all the delays. If I'm happy with this monitor, I might get a 2nd one. I noticed that dream seller has unknown brand panel with hdmi for sale at 370 which seems to be cheapest one I've seen. Monitor is WECUBE ST2770W. I wonder if this is worth the risk.


----------



## DRILLERKILLA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimbernator*
> 
> I can vouch for Bigclothcraft if anyone is looking for an alternative.


I wouldn't. BCC did the exact same thing he described there, total freeze out of communication.


----------



## ivanlabrie

What's the difference with the regular Shimians? I've seen those qh270 lite for 60 bucks less than the regular ones...anyone?


----------



## IcedEarth

The lite ones do not come with speakers I believe.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> What's the difference with the regular Shimians? I've seen those qh270 lite for 60 bucks less than the regular ones...anyone?


I believe this is the CATLEAP club...


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I believe this is the CATLEAP club...


Yeah, I know, but someone had mentioned getting one. Hence the question...
Got my answer anyways.









EDIT: Not sure which club to join btw.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> Yeah, I know, but someone had mentioned getting one. Hence the question...
> Got my answer anyways.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Not sure which club to join btw.


Almost feel like all the Korean monitor clubs should be merged...


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I believe this is the CATLEAP club...


Doesn't mean there can't be questions about other Korean monitors. Many of the questions in this club are about others


----------



## red744t

I just got catleap today, Q270. Green-Sum's ship time is amazing. i ordered on Monday and I got the Monitor on Friday. However, I can't get the monitor to work.

The Q270 led does turn from red to a pulsing green, then green when the system boots up. On the second monitor I can see the system detects the Q270 and shows a native resolution of 2560x1440 but the Q270 screen is completely blank. I don't think the backlights are even on.

The graphic card is a Quadro FX580 running on the latest nVidia win7p-64 driver for the card. The dual-link dvi cable is plugged into the dvi port and not the displayport.

This seems to be an unusual problem. Solid green led but blank screen. Kind of let down after hearing all the great reviews and the thought of having to return the monitor all the way back to S Korea is a bit scary. Anyone else have to problem. Could it be a bad dvi cable? any self diagnosis on the Q270? Is there a initial splash screen for the Q270 when it powers up.

thanks,

John


----------



## WeimTime

So I need a longer cable for my catleap. I'm having a hard time finding a cable that meets the rights specs. What's the general price range of a 10 ft. cable I need.

Any suggestions on where to buy one?

thanks


----------



## Descadent

I had the power supply go out in less than an hr today after receiving my other 2 crossovers. Hate how these things crap out as reported by several users in korean monitor club threads


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> I had the power supply go out in less than an hr today after receiving my other 2 crossovers. Hate how these things crap out as reported by several users in korean monitor club threads


On the plus side, at least the power supplies are external and easy to replace.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeimTime*
> 
> So I need a longer cable for my catleap. I'm having a hard time finding a cable that meets the rights specs. What's the general price range of a 10 ft. cable I need.
> Any suggestions on where to buy one?
> thanks


http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12-816-013&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=5#scrollFullInfo


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> On the plus side, at least the power supplies are external and easy to replace.


very true, at least wasn't monitor, all 3 of mine have no dead pixels and extremely minor light bleed, but the damned power supplys!


----------



## WeimTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> On the plus side, at least the power supplies are external and easy to replace.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=12-816-013&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=5#scrollFullInfo


Ummmm that doesn't support the 2600x1440 resolution of the catleap.

Try again?

This one may do, but I'd rather order from Newegg or amazon....

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/searchtools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=4558909&fb_source=message


----------



## Descadent

lol you just linked basically same thing with different name, the newegg one is dual link. says it right on description


----------



## WeimTime

Yea I misread the "Supports resolutions of 1600x1200 pixels and higher".

But not only does it need to be dual link DVI-D and support the resolution of the monitor your applying it too it also needs to have a 9.9 Gbps transfer rate for HD resolution.

Does the one you posted have a 9.9Gbps transfer rate? I can't see it.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *red744t*
> 
> I just got catleap today, Q270. Green-Sum's ship time is amazing. i ordered on Monday and I got the Monitor on Friday. However, I can't get the monitor to work.
> The Q270 led does turn from red to a pulsing green, then green when the system boots up. On the second monitor I can see the system detects the Q270 and shows a native resolution of 2560x1440 but the Q270 screen is completely blank. I don't think the backlights are even on.
> The graphic card is a Quadro FX580 running on the latest nVidia win7p-64 driver for the card. The dual-link dvi cable is plugged into the dvi port and not the displayport.
> This seems to be an unusual problem. Solid green led but blank screen. Kind of let down after hearing all the great reviews and the thought of having to return the monitor all the way back to S Korea is a bit scary. Anyone else have to problem. Could it be a bad dvi cable? any self diagnosis on the Q270? Is there a initial splash screen for the Q270 when it powers up.
> thanks,
> John


WoW! Almost sounds like my problem...I think....let me explain. I got my Catleap delivered and all I get is a flashing green light, and no picture, back lighting...nothing! I have a HIS Radeon HD 6950 video card, and it will not work on this card for some odd reason









Now on the other hand, I also have a Radeon HD 4650....512mb DDR2 memory.....guess what.......IT WORKS WITH THAT DAMN CARD from like a few years ago









Can anyone shed some light on this matter please? The guy at Best Buy (geek squad) didn't even have an answer lol. (really no big surprise though). But seriously, can someone explain this problem ?


----------



## WeimTime

Can someone confirm that this mounting arm can be used with the Catleap?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824994063


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeimTime*
> 
> Yea I misread the "Supports resolutions of 1600x1200 pixels and higher".
> But not only does it need to be dual link DVI-D and support the resolution of the monitor your applying it too it also needs to have a 9.9 Gbps transfer rate for HD resolution.
> Does the one you posted have a 9.9Gbps transfer rate? I can't see it.


I'm using it with my monitor right now...


----------



## WeimTime

Well why didn't you say so in the first place? That's all I wanted to know. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## LSB1

Hello, first post on the Catleap Club!

Let me start by telling you that I received excellent service from BigClothCraft. Very kind, polite, kept me in communication and shipped the monitor from Korea to Virginia in 2 days (after testing). I was very surprised that the monitor could arrive in two days, maybe in a big hub city like Atlanta or California, but it reached me here in Virginia Beach in only 2 days! =)


As you can see the Catleap came very well packaged and padded! Thank you BigClothCraft!



I took a risk and wanted to try out the new White version!










Now, I know this has been mentioned before, but let me just verify, the stand and bezel for this Q270 is not of high quality, maybe even low quality would be appropriate to say. I wouldn't argue that the Q270 model probably has the worst of the stands available and is indeed a wobbly stand. But, I knew this and am still VERY satisfied and would purchase this again.







It does the trick if you have a sturdy desk and doesn't wobbly or anything of the sort during gaming or everyday computing. In other words, this cheaper plastic bezel and stand is far from a show stopper in my opinion.


Another picture of the built in stand... It does the trick. One thing I noticed in some reviews (and my own personal experience) is that the stand tilted slightly to the right. I was able to play with the two fastening screws at the bottom of the stand and keep reattaching them until I had a somewhat level monitor. So, if you do experience a stand that isn't level, I believe this can be remedied quite easily by removing the base and reattaching it being careful to pay attention to any tilt that might occur if that makes sense. I had a pretty dramatic tilt, but as you can see this is no longer noticeable. Still the stand is not the best and I find myself not too comfortable moving it closer or further away as often as I would like. I usually do this depending on how I am sitting to get the right depth. With this stand the monitor is heavier and isn't as easy. Again, not a deal breaker, and still very happy!

The sticker on the right side left a slight residue, be careful on removing this and cleaning the residue off. All other stickers, plastic came off quite easily.

So let me review the monitor quickly. Again the plastic case and stand is of the lowest acceptable quality. I have no generic computer parts, and this is my first "generic" product to go with my system. Even with the low quality it is MORE than acceptable due to the quality of the display! Again the bezel and stand will fade once your monitor is on...









I did notice a slight 'blueish' tint to the display, however I still think it a wonderful picture. I didn't notice any backlight bleeding (possibly there is some, but I didn't notice, and won't be trying to notice any either, haha). Also, I didn't notice any dead pixels! This was a regular (NON Pixel Perfect) monitor purchased from BigClothCraft, I couldn't be happier. I was expecting a few dead pixel perhaps, but I couldn't notice any! (again, it is possible there is a dead pixel or two in the 3.68+ million pixels, but again I have 20/20 vision and didn't notice any!)

This looks very good for a monitor at this price point. After removing the bezel to access the VESA mount, I found out why!


As you can see, I noticed in the bottom left corner of a label on the back of the display, this is indeed an LG Display! This might be one of their B or A-, screens but still, I'm not noticing! I would pay $300 for this part alone.. =) The plastic casing and stand is a bonus... haha.

Ok, so lets go to part two of my story. I decided to mount this on a Monitor Arm.

Let me start part two by telling you where I purchased my Monitor Arm. I bought it from ErgoLCD.com. I couldn't find any reviews of this seller anywhere. And the few reviews that were there I couldn't be sure how legit the reviewer was. After much time spent researching the company and talking with a kind lady on the phone. I felt that this could be a legitimate company. I don't know if they are authorized reseller of the product (warranty may not be honored in some cases), but they had an excellent price. And as most of us Yamakasi Catleap owners know, we are looking for value. So I took the risk.




I received my new Monitor Arm in 2 days after placing the order (1 day after order left ErgoLCD to reach my home in Virginia Beach.) Very pleased with the service. Thank you ErgoLCD!
I haven't seen any reviews on this Monitor Arm either, but I'm familiar with the HumanScale company. They make high end chairs. I went with the HumanScale M2 Monitor Stand with Clamp. This Model number is M2WC (M2 Silver and White with Clamp). They have bolt on versions as well, and a silver and grey version. They also make an M8 version. The M2 supports 20 lbs and the M8 supports 40 lbs. I believe the Yamakasi is rated at about 15-16 lbs. Maybe less without the stand. In my case the M2 worked wonderfully, I'm glad to be the guinea pig! But, before you jump with this Catleap/Monitor Arm solution, please read on!









So the hard part begins. Disassembling the Yamakasi Catleap. Now here if I may do so politely, I will have to disagree with Scribby's comment about it being "very easy" to remove the stand. In my case it wasn't. The plastic is VERY soft. I even used two guitar picks and it took me over an hour because I wanted to be very careful.






This wasn't very easy at all. And as careful as I was, the soft plastic did crack on me. As you can see in the second picture while trying to unclip and pull the bezel off, the top part of my bezel cracked into a straight line. Pop! I had to continue, hoping nothing else would crack. For this reason, I kind of recommend you looking at other models as well, because there is a slight danger due to the frailness of the low quality plastic. But the story still ends well. The crack is perfect center on the top only. And is not noticeable. Maybe like a piece of thin hair, if even that. I'm still very happy.









Also reassembling the panel it didn't quite sit perfect. So just understand this isn't a perfect bezel, but still wonderful if that makes any sense.







I'd like to add also to the stand removal instructions that I didn't quite understand clearly is that the front bezel is removed, not the back so you have to lay it down as I have in the picture. I used some clothes to keep the weight off the plastic silver Yamakasi backing while prying apart the bezel. I took a few shots of the bezel clips as well to assist with Scribby's dis-assembly instructions. I still couln't quite understand what was 'hooking' these pieces together so the bezel removal part was foreign feeling to me. It can be done and it does give if you believe in it.







And let me go ahead now and take the time to thanks Scribby for sharing those instructions with us. It was very, very helpful. Thank you!

The cables inside seemed very easy to remove, I barely had to pull on it, I used a flashlight to reattach the cables later. I have very happy the monitor turned back on after assembly!









Now I can adjust my Yamakasi Catleap (LG LED IPS, hehe) very easily and it looks great. I highly recommend a monitor arm (of any type) for users of a 27 inch screen, the default stand only had tilt adjustments. I've included some pictures in the different heights angles with my new monitor arm! All screws and needed hardware were included with the M2 Monitor Arm I purchased from ErgoLCD.

Thank you Scribby for the thread, and for the instructions!
Thank you BigClothCraft for the excellent customer service and safe shipping!
Thank you ErgoLCD for the best price on the Humanscale M2 Monitor Arm!

I'd rate my Yamakasi Catleap a 10/10 (maybe 9/10 for the stand/bezel quality)
I'd rate the HumanScale M2 Monitor Arm a 10/10 (maybe 9/10 due to a slight limitation of angles)

Overall I'm very happy and would easily purchase these two items again from these two sellers!

Some final pictures for you! Thank you!


























-LSB1


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Nice job - I was never a fan of the white until I saw your set up. Well done!


----------



## saros

errrp


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Liking that monitor arm!


----------



## WeimTime

I can't tell, did you have to drill any holes in your desk to attach the monitor arm? I'm in need of a monitor arm that requires no drilling holes in the desk. I hate dorm rules.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Looks like a clamp.


----------



## WeimTime

I sure hope it is. Also what part of the monitor did he exactly 'crack'? I don't understand what he did.


----------



## Hamy144

When did the price of a Q270 go up?
I bought one about 2 months ago and since then they have gone up by £30, almost made me rethink getting a 2nd and 3rd.
But in going to go for a nice portrait set up, de-bezeled with custom mounts.


----------



## red744t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *red744t*
> 
> I just got catleap today, Q270. Green-Sum's ship time is amazing. i ordered on Monday and I got the Monitor on Friday. However, I can't get the monitor to work.
> The Q270 led does turn from red to a pulsing green, then green when the system boots up. On the second monitor I can see the system detects the Q270 and shows a native resolution of 2560x1440 but the Q270 screen is completely blank. I don't think the backlights are even on.
> The graphic card is a Quadro FX580 running on the latest nVidia win7p-64 driver for the card. The dual-link dvi cable is plugged into the dvi port and not the displayport.
> This seems to be an unusual problem. Solid green led but blank screen. Kind of let down after hearing all the great reviews and the thought of having to return the monitor all the way back to S Korea is a bit scary. Anyone else have to problem. Could it be a bad dvi cable? any self diagnosis on the Q270? Is there a initial splash screen for the Q270 when it powers up.


I know I normally shouldn't attempt this type of repair on a new monitor but shipping this item back and forth between continents can be a bit expensive. . .

I've try using a different dual link cable and a different PC but the screen is still dark. However, I think I've found the problem. It's the led backlight. I can see faint images when I shine a flash light on the dark panel. I opened up the Q270 and all the connection looks good. Is there anyway to check to see if the led backlight problem is on the lcd panel assemble on on the pcb board?

thanks,

John


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> When did the price of a Q270 go up?
> I bought one about 2 months ago and since then they have gone up by £30, almost made me rethink getting a 2nd and 3rd.
> But in going to go for a nice portrait set up, de-bezeled with custom mounts.


It's £215 for a Q270 and £245 for a pixel perfect version. Are you telling me the pixel perfect version was £215?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> It's £215 for a Q270 and £245 for a pixel perfect version. Are you telling me the pixel perfect version was £215?


Lolwut?
I just checked the same listing as the one I bought and is now £275 compared to £245 I bought.
And the q270 used to be £195 nin perfect pixel and is not £225.


----------



## IcedEarth

When I looked the other day on BigClothCraft it was £215 for the non perfect and £245 for the guaranteed perfect.


----------



## Hamy144

They must have seen how popular they were, gunna sting a little when I get another 2


----------



## Mackem

Anyone that ordered from the UK did you have to pay any customs fees etc.? Also I want to buy a pixel perfect version of the Q270 MULTI, who is the best seller?

Thanks.


----------



## IcedEarth

Hamy for £275 are you referring to the multi? Or a Q270 (non multi) with insurance?

If I search for a Q270 pixel perfect (dual dvi only) it's £245.


----------



## magnus333

Does anyone know the spacing from pixel to outside edge on a debezeled catleap? If it's listed somewhere in these 800 pages I can't seem to find it!


----------



## Hamy144

I'd say message callsignvega, he's got 5 debezeled.

I can only seam to find one at £271 none at £245.
I won't be ordering till I get paid in september so I'll get the cheapest then.


----------



## jameschisholm

Does anyone know why on the ebay sellers pages it refers to my AMD 5850 as not supported?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

From what I have read the 5850 won't display until Windows is loaded, so you don't get a POST screen and can't see the BIOS screen.


----------



## jameschisholm

Not even if you tap Del to get into the UEFI?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

As for as I have read correct.


----------



## Hamy144

I don't see my post screen but on my motherboard debug display I can tell when it does post.
You can get into bios that way and does display the bios screen.
I'm not sure if it would work like that for a 5850 but that's the only way I can get into uefi while using a 7950 and 7770


----------



## jameschisholm

I have the same motherboard as you Hamy144. So there may be a chance I can do the same, or just pick up some cheap monitor later on, as of right now I rarely go into my UEFI, OC is rock solid, Boot order is how I want it etc..


----------



## Hamy144

I just hit del when it shows A3 and I'm in.
I do have an old monitor i used before I discovered this so you can do it that way and have a second screen for extra space for multitasking and things.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I'd say message callsignvega, he's got 5 debezeled..


He's no longer using Catleaps, I bought one of his when he switched.

Check post 7956 a few pages back, curlyp just debezed his Catleaps.


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I'd say message callsignvega, he's got 5 debezeled..
> 
> 
> 
> He's no longer using Catleaps, I bought one of his when he switched.
> 
> Check post 7956 a few pages back, curlyp just debezed his Catleaps.
Click to expand...

This.

I think he switched to some Samsungs. I think that's what he has right now.


----------



## LSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeimTime*
> 
> I can't tell, did you have to drill any holes in your desk to attach the monitor arm? I'm in need of a monitor arm that requires no drilling holes in the desk. I hate dorm rules.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Looks like a clamp.


That is correct, I'm using the Clamp version, no holes/drill needed. I was surprised at how secure it feels. Also the M2 supports the weight very well. I actually had to loosen some of the hex tension screws to be able to move it easier.


----------



## LSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeimTime*
> 
> I sure hope it is. Also what part of the monitor did he exactly 'crack'? I don't understand what he did.


Sorry that wasn't as clear as I would have liked it to be. This was very difficult to take a picture of...





If you look at the first picture of how the monitor was bending while attempting to separate the front and back bezel (with care), it snapped. It's almost not apparent at all in the photos, but it is a true separation of plastic from the middle to the front of the bezel (looking down from at the top of the monitor. Hope that explains it better.

It almost looks like a fine white line but it is a true crack, that happened somewhat easily with not too much force. I'm grateful it is no longer easily visible when assembled.


----------



## WeimTime

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LSB1*
> 
> Sorry that wasn't as clear as I would have liked it to be. This was very difficult to take a picture of...
> 
> 
> 
> If you look at the first picture of how the monitor was bending while attempting to separate the front and back bezel (with care), it snapped. It's almost not apparent at all in the photos, but it is a true separation of plastic from the middle to the front of the bezel (looking down from at the top of the monitor. Hope that explains it better.


oh... but hey since it's white you can barely tell... But since I need to do this myself later in the future, how hard is it to prevent it from happening?

Let me be more clear: what do I need to do to prevent what you did?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Luck. He was already being very careful and it still cracked...


----------



## NightmareGSX

got mine!!


----------



## NightmareGSX




----------



## LSB1

Congrats! Looks really nice in Black! (I own the white version).

I'm sure you will enjoy it! Let us know what you think... =D


----------



## LSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeimTime*
> 
> oh... but hey since it's white you can barely tell... But since I need to do this myself later in the future, how hard is it to prevent it from happening?
> Let me be more clear: what do I need to do to prevent what you did?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Luck. He was already being very careful and it still cracked...


Yes. =)

I believe simply by knowing how fragile this could be, maybe the extra caution in itself will hopefully be enough to prevent it from happening to you or anybody else.


----------



## zapuff

After a couple of weeks of use my monitor is having a problem. There's several stuck pixels all across the screen that weren't there when I first got it. Mostly green in color, but there's at least 10-20 of them. Could this be due to the dvi cable it comes with? I'm worried something isn't right here.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zapuff*
> 
> After a couple of weeks of use my monitor is having a problem. There's several stuck pixels all across the screen that weren't there when I first got it. Mostly green in color, but there's at least 10-20 of them. Could this be due to the dvi cable it comes with? I'm worried something isn't right here.


I've used my Catleap since March with the supplied cable, and nothing like this has happened to me. Still dead pixel free! If they're green, they could just be stuck pixels, and you might be able to use a program to unstick them. You could try a different cable to rule it out though.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I've used my Catleap since March with the supplied cable, and nothing like this has happened to me. Still dead pixel free! If they're green, they could just be stuck pixels, and you might be able to use a program to unstick them. You could try a different cable to rule it out though.


This
Also gently massaging them, or they might go away if you use it for a long period of time.


----------



## marc0053

I'm interested in purchasing a catleap q270 (standard model). Can anyone confirm is they can do refresh rates over 60 Hz? if so by how much (non 2B boards).
Thanks in advance.


----------



## kingkio

I am thinking about buying one of these monitors when I get paid, Will I be able to run it effectively and play games at high detail on a single Radeon HD6870 1gb?


----------



## Tephnos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingkio*
> 
> I am thinking about buying one of these monitors when I get paid, Will I be able to run it effectively and play games at high detail on a single Radeon HD6870 1gb?


I think you may struggle with 1GB of VRAM on some games.


----------



## LSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingkio*
> 
> I am thinking about buying one of these monitors when I get paid, Will I be able to run it effectively and play games at high detail on a single Radeon HD6870 1gb?


How does that compare to a GTX 570? I have only an EVGA GTX 460 Ti 448 Classified (on par with a 570), an I was very concerned.

I can run BF3 on Medium solid 60+ FPS (I use vertical sync and the render.drawfps 1 command), High around 50+ FPS, but I usually turn off antialiasing and shadows and put everything else to ultra and it runs a nice solid 50-60+ FPS.

SC2 runs Ultra at 60 FPS but drops to about 30 during large 4vs4 battles (I don't notice this, just when I look at the FPS counter)

CS:GO- completely maxed out at 80+ FPS minimum around 78FPS.
Portal 2 - completely maxed out settings - 120FPS

Sleeping Dogs - Maxed out no issues (I don't have an FPS counter for this)

iRacing - (Maxed out I never tried turning on the mirrors and high quality rear view though. 4x antialiasing 16x antifilering (you know what i mean.. lol) - no FPS counter but very very smooth. I'm assuming 60+

Basically the only game that puts it in check that I play is BF3, still with MOST (NOT ALL) settings at ULTRA (Textures, Special Effects, Terrain Details etc..) I can still get solid 60 FPS on some maps. Min 45. I don't feel the need to upgrade to the 660 or 670 as of yet. (I know it's a major upgrade, but coming from a 448 Classified, I'm not sure it's dollar/performance issue can be justified, considering most of the games I play are running ultra at 60 FPS already.)

So I was very impressed. Again this is all at native 2560x1400, I never have to drop down to 1920x1080.

I know this might be hard to believe, even for me, but this is only the truth I speak of! LOL









I usually vertical sync my frames so everything typically flutters 59/60 on the FPS scans! =)

So if you are around the 570 level, have at it!!! Knock yourself out, this thing is a beauty to game on.









And Since I mounted my monitor arm, a 27" screen at 2560x1440, I just bought a G27 and iRacing account. I can set my Yamakasi right on top of my G27!







hahaha.

Enjoy!


----------



## LSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tephnos*
> 
> I think you may struggle with 1GB of VRAM on some games.


I have 1.28 GB ram, and I'm no expert but from what some people tell me is that I simply have to dial down some of the anti aliasing. When I dropped it to 0 on BF3 I can run at 50-60+ FPS natively with most other things on Ultra (textures, special effects, etc.) The only thing I run at medium is terrain density (i think that is what it is called ), and shadows.

Maybe I'll take a ss later in game with the render.drawfps 1 counter and the settings.







hopefully the counter will show.


----------



## kingkio

Well I didn't realise it was a bank holiday this weekend so my wages are already through, went ahead and ordered one and it came to roughly £225.

If I do have to upgrade, would a Radeon HD6970 2GB be up to the job?


----------



## Hamy144

I'd say it would be more than up to the job of running one of these.
I remember reading somewhere bf3 uses 1.7gb VRAM, not sure what settings were being used but they weren't too bad.
If you read some reviews you might get some more solid numbers


----------



## MoMann

Hey everyone, noticed not too many people have Eyefinity/Surround with these, so what do you all think of 3x1 portrait, with 2/ 1/2 inch bezels for gaming?


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MoMann*
> 
> Hey everyone, noticed not too many people have Eyefinity/Surround with these, so what do you all think of 3x1 portrait, with 2/ 1/2 inch bezels for gaming?


i've done it with my crossovers. it wasn't bad at all imo. your eyes play tricks on you and they kinda just go away.


----------



## newchemicals

LSB1: Nice Monitor Arm, I'll have to look into getting one of those.


----------



## LSB1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *newchemicals*
> 
> LSB1: Nice Monitor Arm, I'll have to look into getting one of those.


It's a great arm! Let me know if you need any help or advice!


----------



## Kryptos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *marc0053*
> 
> I'm interested in purchasing a catleap q270 (standard model). Can anyone confirm is they can do refresh rates over 60 Hz? if so by how much (non 2B boards).
> Thanks in advance.


I just got mine and it overclocks to about 67 Hz. Certainly not 100 Hz like the earlier ones.


----------



## keiths

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kryptos*
> 
> I just got mine and it overclocks to about 67 Hz. Certainly not 100 Hz like the earlier ones.


Is there a selection of no higher than 67Hz? or if you set higher the display becomes garbled? or if set higher monitor protection has the screen blank out?


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *keiths*
> 
> Is there a selection of no higher than 67Hz? or if you set higher the display becomes garbled? or if set higher monitor protection has the screen blank out?


It starts flickering


----------



## Dominic

I got my catlep multi 27. Had it now for over a monts and everything is great!!


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominic*
> 
> I got my catlep multi 27. Had it now for over a monts and everything is great!!


You're in London!

Did you pay import tax by any chance? If so how much?

Cheers.


----------



## Major Daddy

Does anyone know where I can find color calibration files for my late model Q270-SE? The ToastyX, etc profiles apparently are for early model PCB's and son't work and my attempts at eyeball-calibrating the monitor are not good.

I'm not sure what PCB revision I got... Here's my serial # tag:



Is there any way of getting the h/w rev from this?

Thanks in advance...


----------



## exhibitO

I'm trying to add some sexy LED back light to my Catleap, can someone point me to a strip led I can attach to the back of the monitor or the wall perhaps?

Thank you.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Go to oznium.com - great place for LED strips, etc. I buy from them all the time.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

As far as ICM profiles - I cannot say where to find them.


----------



## unfbilly11

I'm really looking at buying one of these and just had a couple questions...Which seller on ebay do the majority of you buy from?? Also, What kind of import fees am I looking at for the US... (Florida in particular if that matters). If I pay $400, am i going to be looking at another $100 in import fees?

These monitors look amazing. I would imagine the S IPS Catleap Q270 is the best one? ...or am I wrong?


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

There are no import fees for monitors in the US.


----------



## unfbilly11

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> There are no import fees for monitors in the US.


Thank you. I thought that would be the case but I wanted to make sure.


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Go to oznium.com - great place for LED strips, etc. I buy from them all the time.


Thanks for the recommending, here is my setup:

http://www.imgur.com/lzyLU.jpeg

I'm having trouble picking an Led, what do you think? http://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon

Cool, Neutral, or Warm? My lights are ready warmish, should I keep the theme going or go for a different light contrast?

Sorry for being verbose, have never installed LEDs before.

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## red744t

Regarding the earlier solid green light but dark screen issue, it turned out one of the inductor leads was not soldered.

Once I soldered the joint, the back lights comes up and Wow! 2560x1440! Simply amazing. Previously I've been using dual 1600x1200 and was looking to upgrade one of the monitor to 1920x1200. For not much more I got 2560x1440. Wow.

I changed the background a few time from black to white to red to blue to green and didn't notice any glaring dead pixels in my quick glance.


----------



## soldieroftafari

Great post! That probably takes a lot of people off of the "does not work" list with a little tinkering!


----------



## iARDAs

Folks can i install the below camera on my Yamakasi Catleap?

http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-LifeCam-Cinema-720p-Webcam/dp/B002MCZJ78/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346151902&sr=1-1&keywords=microsoft+lifecam+cinema

would it hold?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> Folks can i install the below camera on my Yamakasi Catleap?
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-LifeCam-Cinema-720p-Webcam/dp/B002MCZJ78/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346151902&sr=1-1&keywords=microsoft+lifecam+cinema
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> would it hold?


Yes it will. I have the LifeCam Studio 1080p one, and it sits just fine!.


----------



## iARDAs

perfect. thanks for the answer


----------



## blade7115

I want to buy this monitor but what worries me is how people need to tinker with the monitor to make it work the best. Do most of these monitors come shipped working (I don't know how to solder or anything) ? I don't want to have to pay return shipping to Korea...


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blade7115*
> 
> I want to buy this monitor but what worries me is how people need to tinker with the monitor to make it work the best. Do most of these monitors come shipped working (I don't know how to solder or anything) ? I don't want to have to pay return shipping to Korea...


I bought mine early in March, however I did not get a 2B version (overclockable). I had some minor issues with sparkling pixels when I first got it, but massaging the cable seemed to do the trick for that, and I've been problem free since then.

The whole idea of these is the risk taking, since you're getting a good sized monitor for a great price!


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I bought mine early in March, however I did not get a 2B version (overclockable). I had some minor issues with sparkling pixels when I first got it, but massaging the cable seemed to do the trick for that, and I've been problem free since then.
> The whole idea of these is the risk taking, since you're getting a good sized monitor for a great price!


This.

I don't want to sound abrupt or rude, but if you can't afford the possible risks, don't buy the monitor.

I understand that none of us want to throw this kind of money down the drain but it is a risk, and with all risks you need to be able to accept them if they come to fruition.

If you buy from Green-Sum or BigClothCraft they check your monitor with a compatible GPU and ensure that there are under 5 dead pixels prior to shipping. This minimises the possibility of a DOA or faulty monitor upon delivery. However just like all electronics you will never be able to predict when it will break.


----------



## eternal7trance

Yea even with mine I had a lot of issues and had to fix a few of the internal cables, after that he gave me $150 back. Not bad for an hour or so of work.


----------



## H4rd5tyl3

Anyone have the glass version and is it worth getting over the regular? I'm also not 100% sure how the options go. Anyone care to explain?


----------



## hodgempls

I have been lurking for a while on this thread and decided to order a catleap Q270 3 weeks ago from green_sum. Great exp so far. Ordered on a Sat and the monitor was at my office on Wed. No dead pixels but I do have a little light bleed on a black screen - overall I am very pleased with the value of this monitor. The picture blows my 4 year old dell 2408wfp away! Stand is wobbly but i knew this going into the purchase. Given the defect rates on these, I did purchase a square trade warranty for $40 - had a coupon for a discount. If you are willing to take some risk, you can get a great deal. You can minimize the risk by purchasing a square trade warranty for $49 (cheaper if you can find a coupon) and they will cover the shipping costs for a defect - usually they will just refund your purchase price though. Another option is to purchase one these through Microcenter - they have them for $399 plus tax. I did take a look at the Microcenter version, in person, but did not like the looks and given the price differential, decided to go with the Catleap and the 3 yr squaretrade warranty for $350 total.


----------



## geovas77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *H4rd5tyl3*
> 
> Anyone have the glass version and is it worth getting over the regular? I'm also not 100% sure how the options go. Anyone care to explain?


It has a sheet of glass at the front over the bezel, it's otherwise identical to the non glass model. The front glass might pose a problem if there is dust underneath or you have a few stuck pixels that need massaging, luckily mine had neither.

Sent from my U8650 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## niciuffo

I would really buy this monitor, but there are a lot of different version on eBay, and I can't tell the difference between them. Since we are not allowed to post eBay links, green-sum has some of them for sale, tow of which being a 325$ one and a 295$ one. Can someone point me to the difference?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> I would really buy this monitor, but there are a lot of different version on eBay, and I can't tell the difference between them. Since we are not allowed to post eBay links, green-sum has some of them for sale, tow of which being a 325$ one and a 295$ one. Can someone point me to the difference?


Have you tried the first post of this thread, under "Q270 Monitor Versions"?


----------



## niciuffo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Have you tried the first post of this thread, under "Q270 Monitor Versions"?


Yeah, the thing is, I can't seem to find and information on the two insertions. They are like the same monitor but one of them costs 50$ more.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> Yeah, the thing is, I can't seem to find and information on the two insertions. They are like the same monitor but one of them costs 50$ more.


In all fairness the OP isn't exactly clear and concise for new comers.

There are two versions, a Q270 and a 2703.

A 2703 is the tempered glass only version. It comes in only one version which includes all of the following:

Looks different to the Q270
Has tempered glass (not optional)
DVI Dual Link only (no other input methods available)
No speakers (not optional)
LED Backlit (not optional)
Black (not optional)
Guaranteed to be below 15 dead pixels
No option to buy pixel perfect version

A Q270 has a variation of the following specs dependant upon what you want:

Different look to the 2703
Tempered glass (optional)
DVI Dual Link (Optional addition of HDMI input)
2W Speakers (Optional)
LED Backlit (not optional)
Black or White (choice is yours)
Guaranteed to be below 5 dead pixels
Option to buy pixel perfect version

As you can see, the Q270 can come with more specs than the 2703, this is why the 2703 is much cheaper, this is also why the price of a Q270 varies so much, dependant upon its spec. It is worth noting though that they both use the same LG IPS panel.

I hope that clears a few things up.


----------



## niciuffo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> In all fairness the OP isn't exactly clear and concise for new comers.
> There are two versions, a Q270 and a 2703.
> A 2703 is the tempered glass only version. It comes in only one version which includes all of the following:
> Looks different to the Q270
> Has tempered glass (not optional)
> DVI Dual Link only (no other input methods available)
> No speakers (not optional)
> LED Backlit (not optional)
> Black (not optional)
> Guaranteed to be below 15 dead pixels
> No option to buy pixel perfect version
> A Q270 has a variation of the following specs dependant upon what you want:
> Different look to the 2703
> Tempered glass (optional)
> DVI Dual Link (Optional addition of HDMI input)
> 2W Speakers (Optional)
> LED Backlit (not optional)
> Black or White (choice is yours)
> Guaranteed to be below 5 dead pixels
> Option to buy pixel perfect version
> As you can see, the Q270 can come with more specs than the 2703, this is why the 2703 is much cheaper, this is also why the price of a Q270 varies so much, dependant upon its spec. It is worth noting though that they both use the same LG IPS panel.
> I hope that clears a few things up.


To be honest, apart for the pixel perfect thing, I would go for the cheaper one since I don't use HDMI nor integrated speakers, I'd buy it black with temperated glass. Thanks for the info though.


----------



## IcedEarth

Be warned that the tempered glass versions can get dust stuck behind them and the glass can cause intense glare in sunlight.


----------



## Pr0grammer1

I've been looking at getting three of these monitors sometime in the next month or two, and it looks like the prices for the Q270 have gone way up -- Is the 2703 a replacement for it, and does anyone know whether the Q270 will come down in price again? The main reason I'm worried is that I've heard that there might be major glare issues with having three of these with tempered glass all angled toward me, and the only way I can get a matte version is apparently with the Q270.


----------



## mgmtm3

I would only get a tempered glass model if you have controlled lighting in the room you want to use it in. If you use it on a bright day with some big windows behind you it may not be the ideal screen type. That being said, I only notice a reflection when the screen is completely black. Normal web browsing/playing games/desktop use is perfectly fine even during the day. It might get annoying in some games that are very visibly dark in their presentation. From experience with two 2703's, both had no dust at all behind the glass. During the night you really don't notice it at all. The 2703 is not really a replacement but rather a different style. I prefer the look of the 2703 but I am sure many think the 270 is the better looker. One thing I can say for sure as I also picked up a Q270 is that the 2703 has a more stable stand. There is no monitor tilt and not as much wobble. I have heard the most recent batch of 2703's is having some dead pixel issues so you might steer clear for a bit. Talk to Green-Sum, they are very straight forward about it. You might also check out the First FSM-270YQ.


----------



## Darkfire1340

Okay so i ordered a pixel perfect yamakasi catleap q270, and i just got contected by the seller saying they are currently out of stock but he is offering to send me a pixel perfect yamakasi catleap q270 SE, should i do this? Does the SE have a higher probability of being a B2 board and allowing me to overclock it? or does it really just have added speakers? thanks


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkfire1340*
> 
> Okay so i ordered a pixel perfect yamakasi catleap q270, and i just got contected by the seller saying they are currently out of stock but he is offering to send me a pixel perfect yamakasi catleap q270 SE, should i do this? Does the SE have a higher probability of being a B2 board and allowing me to overclock it? or does it really just have added speakers? thanks


trust me when i say your chances of getting a 2b board is like winning the Texas Lottery


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jojoenglish85*
> 
> trust me when i say your chances of getting a 2b board is like winning the Texas Lottery


Yeah, more along the lines of 0%/

I ordered tempered, got non-tempered a while back from Greensum. Even without controlling lighting (too lazy to right now), it's fine for everything.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkfire1340*
> 
> Does the SE have a higher probability of being a B2 board and allowing me to overclock it? or does it really just have added speakers? thanks


I don't think the speakers are the difference between the Q270 and Q270 SE.
I bought the SE and the ebay page clearly mentiones it has no built in speakers


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkfire1340*
> 
> Okay so i ordered a pixel perfect yamakasi catleap q270, and i just got contected by the seller saying they are currently out of stock but he is offering to send me a pixel perfect yamakasi catleap q270 SE, should i do this? Does the SE have a higher probability of being a B2 board and allowing me to overclock it? or does it really just have added speakers? thanks


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> I don't think the speakers are the difference between the Q270 and Q270 SE.
> I bought the SE and the ebay page clearly mentiones it has no built in speakers


SE (speakers excluded ?) models have no speakers.


----------



## IcedEarth

Does anyone know if the Squaretrade warranty is applicable in the UK?

Edit:

Doesn't matter. I found a Squaretrade 3 year warranty + accidental damage protection for £49.99.

UK buyers should be aware. I read the T&Cs of this and it says you must be a resident of the UK. If you purchase the inclusive Squaretrade warranty from the Ebay buyer who charges $49.99, it may be USA specific. To be on the safe side I would purchase one from AmazonUK or another UK retailer to ensure the insurance includes UK cover.

Sent from my Galaxy SII


----------



## JayXMonsta

Whats up with the prices going up on the none multi models? I need one more q270 catleap to match the other 2 I have and I won't have money for a month hope I can still order one then


----------



## 4514kaiser

Hey any idea who's the best international dealer when it comes to price, warranty and dead pixel policy like the look of the monitor its just I would hate to buy one and then to have to live with say 4 dead pixels and major light bleeding.......


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Hey any idea who's the best international dealer when it comes to price, warranty and dead pixel policy like the look of the monitor its just I would hate to buy one and then to have to live with say 4 dead pixels and major light bleeding.......


4 dead pixels would barely even be noticeable under operational conditions.

Greensum and BigClothCraft seem to be the best. They check that the monitor works, has under 5 dead pixels and is free of cosmetic damage prior to shipping. Both offer Squaretrade warranties for $49.99 but I suspect it is USA only so if you live outside of the US I would buy your warranty locally.

Sent from my Galaxy SII


----------



## niciuffo

If you want the cheaper 2703 version, there was one yesterday for 295$, which is now on sale for 395$ (I don't know why they upped the price so much) There is still ONE seller who is selling it for 300$. Just saying, 'cause he could up the price without advice.


----------



## Darkfire1340

Ya now im thinking i wont take my refund and just get the SE version for 429 because prices are rocketing to 500???? can anyone confirm that they will not go down? thanks


----------



## GrJohnso

I think that's like asking if buying stock is a good deal or not..  Prices will go up and down, but I would imagine that it'll be hard to do better than $300 on a regular basis for the base models...

Anyway, glad I grabbed my 270se when I did... Still going strong, knock on wood...


----------



## Cavey00

Just pulled the trigger on the 2703 base model one. Scared that the price would skyrocket. Grabbed the squaretrade warranty too, which I was going to do anyway. I'll let you know how this all works out!


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Just pulled the trigger on the 2703 base model one. Scared that the price would skyrocket. Grabbed the squaretrade warranty too, which I was going to do anyway. I'll let you know how this all works out!


I did the same thing a month ago. 2703 and warranty, $349. I couldn't be happier. Now I need more power to run the thing. Two 6870 CF'd just isn't enough to run everything ultra. But movies look gorgeous as well as the games.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> SE (speakers excluded ?) models have no speakers.


Ahhh now i get it thanks.
SE has no speakers, other Q270 does








(i thought the SE meant 'Second edition' or so)


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majorhi*
> 
> I did the same thing a month ago. 2703 and warranty, $349. I couldn't be happier. Now I need more power to run the thing. Two 6870 CF'd just isn't enough to run everything ultra. But movies look gorgeous as well as the games.


Great to have that reassurance. Despite 800+ pages of posts, it's still scary departing with my hard earned money on what I deem a bit of a gamble. I have a 5 year old DVI-D cable currently running my little 20" monitor. How much of a difference in speed is there in different DVI-D cables (in case the one that comes with it doesn't work)? I don't think the speed is printed on that cable anywhere.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Great to have that reassurance. Despite 800+ pages of posts, it's still scary departing with my hard earned money on what I deem a bit of a gamble. I have a 5 year old DVI-D cable currently running my little 20" monitor. How much of a difference in speed is there in different DVI-D cables (in case the one that comes with it doesn't work)? I don't think the speed is printed on that cable anywhere.


The key thing is that it must be a dual link dvd-d. More bandwidth. At any rate I didn't use the cable that came with it. I just ordered _this one_ from Amazon. In the pictures it's white but mine came in black. I plugged it in and no worries.


----------



## niciuffo

Why did you order another cable if you already had the one in the box, if I may ask?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> Why did you order another cable if you already had the one in the box, if I may ask?


You'd be amazed at how many of the included DVI cables don't work. The quality is terrible. Most people including myself bought other ones. Even a $5 cable from Monoprice beats the included cable.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Great to have that reassurance. Despite 800+ pages of posts, it's still scary departing with my hard earned money on what I deem a bit of a gamble. I have a 5 year old DVI-D cable currently running my little 20" monitor. How much of a difference in speed is there in different DVI-D cables (in case the one that comes with it doesn't work)? I don't think the speed is printed on that cable anywhere.


It's not really a gamble if you get the Squaretrade warranty.

Even with the warranty, it's still half the price of a Dell U2711 and an order of magnitude cheaper than an Apple Cinema 27".

No gamble what so ever. The only gamble is if you decide to save some money by not purchasing the warranty but that would be silly in my opinion considering the great deal that can be had even with the warranty.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> Why did you order another cable if you already had the one in the box, if I may ask?


I read in the posts people were having issues with the cables so I figured I'd order one just to avoid the hassle later on if I had an issue.


----------



## Cavey00

I'm going to bet that the one I've been using for years will work fine, and I'll use the one that comes with the monitor for my secondary display. Just one less thing to troubleshoot if it comes to that. The power brick is my only other concern.


----------



## voklskier4452

I have had my catleap for quite some time now and finally got fed up with the crappy stand. I ordered a stand from monoprice and also a replacement DVI-D cable since the one in the box sucks. If I moved my rig it would lose signal. It took as little as moving my headphones to lose signal. I ordered a 24 AWG DIV cable and it is stupidly thick, some how that didn't occur to me before I opened the box but it works perfectly so whatever.

Heres a picture with the new stand and the new cable, which looks okay in this cable but keep in mind all those cables in with the picture are PSU cables.


----------



## LSB1

Hey guys!

I got some good news. If you saw my review for my Catleap, I also bought a Humanscale M2 Monitor arm with Desk Clamp. I originally wanted a Herman Miller FLO arm but my retailer didn't have them in stock and offered me a Humanscale M2 arm instead. It was $239 dollars! He offered me 10% off for being military... still very expensive. Well I found it online for $159, and wrote a review about my Yamakasi Catleap and my M2 Monitor stand I bought from BigClothCraft and ErgoLCD.com... they sent me a coupon code to support the Overclock community because some of you liked the M2 stand!

So here it is to share: overclockm2

You can get the same Arm (Model number M2WC) M2 White/Silver with Clamp for $140







with free 2 day shipping! Let me know you if you have any questions about my review. Also you can see pictures in my profile or in my review. Hope it helps some of you out!

v/r

LSB1


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voklskier4452*
> 
> I have had my catleap for quite some time now and finally got fed up with the crappy stand. I ordered a stand from monoprice and also a replacement DVI-D cable since the one in the box sucks. If I moved my rig it would lose signal. It took as little as moving my headphones to lose signal. I ordered a 24 AWG DIV cable and it is stupidly thick, some how that didn't occur to me before I opened the box but it works perfectly so whatever.
> 
> Heres a picture with the new stand and the new cable, which looks okay in this cable but keep in mind all those cables in with the picture are PSU cables.


Still can't get over how large those monoprice stands are. (O_O)

They look great though.


----------



## niciuffo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *voklskier4452*
> 
> I have had my catleap for quite some time now and finally got fed up with the crappy stand. I ordered a stand from monoprice and also a replacement DVI-D cable since the one in the box sucks. If I moved my rig it would lose signal. It took as little as moving my headphones to lose signal. I ordered a 24 AWG DIV cable and it is stupidly thick, some how that didn't occur to me before I opened the box but it works perfectly so whatever.
> Heres a picture with the new stand and the new cable, which looks okay in this cable but keep in mind all those cables in with the picture are PSU cables.


How much did that stand cost to you?


----------



## 161029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *voklskier4452*
> 
> I have had my catleap for quite some time now and finally got fed up with the crappy stand. I ordered a stand from monoprice and also a replacement DVI-D cable since the one in the box sucks. If I moved my rig it would lose signal. It took as little as moving my headphones to lose signal. I ordered a 24 AWG DIV cable and it is stupidly thick, some how that didn't occur to me before I opened the box but it works perfectly so whatever.
> Heres a picture with the new stand and the new cable, which looks okay in this cable but keep in mind all those cables in with the picture are PSU cables.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How much did that stand cost to you?
Click to expand...

I think it's about $20-$30.

Edit: $20.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2

And a few more.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828#1082808

You want something that supports at least 33 lbs like the one in the photo. Hopefully it can rise high enough too so the monitor doesn't touch the desk. I think VESA is obvious.


----------



## Cavey00

Gees, already got a response from BCC regarding my order I put in several hours ago. I've seen this mentioned a few times on the forum and I forget if people posted how they responded. He is asking if he can mark it as a gift (yes) and what amount to put on the invoice. That part has me stumped.


----------



## heredavid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Gees, already got a response from BCC regarding my order I put in several hours ago. I've seen this mentioned a few times on the forum and I forget if people posted how they responded. He is asking if he can mark it as a gift (yes) and what amount to put on the invoice. That part has me stumped.


Usually for lower (tax/custom/dutes) fees in some places


----------



## silvinho21

*Hey guys, I really need some advice from the members in this club im thinking of ordering a catleap, shimian, or crossover the prices have gone up and the lowest one i can find is about $350 all the way up to $450, Ok so my questions are:

*

what is the lifespan of these korean monitors?
which brand has the best build quality? ex;Shimian, Catleap, Crossover, Matrix etc
which ebay seller do you recommend?
How long do you think shipping would take to florida, and is there a customs fee?
I own a 7970 ghz edition and game on a 1080p 23"samsung, would my video card do fine at 1440p and is gaming on that resolution a different sensation than at 1080p or is it the same crap?
Last question is about the warranty that ebay offers, its called square trade, has anyone had this and is this warranty here from america and is it a good idea since these korean monitors seems to give a low percentage of buyers defects or sometimes doa?
Anyways I would appreciate the input, i really want to experience the whole 1440p resolution and to see what gaming on it is like


----------



## Cavey00

Well I just ordered a 2703 from BCC today with the square trade warranty so as far as longevity or the warranty, only time will tell. On a separate note, this guy has been awesome for communication so far. He had some questions as far as shipping was concerned and I had questions as well. He has been amazing so far with response time. Hopefully we won't have any problems but so far, I feel really good about this seller :thumbup:

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## silvinho21

how much did you pay with the warranty and everything?


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> *Hey guys, I really need some advice from the members in this club im thinking of ordering a catleap, shimian, or crossover the prices have gone up and the lowest one i can find is about $350 all the way up to $450, Ok so my questions are:
> *
> 
> what is the lifespan of these korean monitors?
> which brand has the best build quality? ex;Shimian, Catleap, Crossover, Matrix etc
> which ebay seller do you recommend?
> How long do you think shipping would take to florida, and is there a customs fee?
> I own a 7970 ghz edition and game on a 1080p 23"samsung, would my video card do fine at 1440p and is gaming on that resolution a different sensation than at 1080p or is it the same crap?
> Last question is about the warranty that ebay offers, its called square trade, has anyone had this and is this warranty here from america and is it a good idea since these korean monitors seems to give a low percentage of buyers defects or sometimes doa?
> Anyways I would appreciate the input, i really want to experience the whole 1440p resolution and to see what gaming on it is like


I have a catleap q270 with a vision tek 7970 ref card - I have no trouble with 1440p at max settings. I purchased from Green-Sum and it only took 3 days to get to Minneapolis. The warranty is a toss up - they cost about 13% of the purchase price on the monitor. Will 13% of these go bad within 3 years??? Hard to say. Due to the shipping costs back to Korea I decided to purchase one. Over all, I received a great monitor with a 3 year warranty for $350. No dead pixels but I do have minimal back light bleed. Bottom line is the Q270 blows my Dell ultrasharp 2407wfp out of the water. If you are hesitant to purchase from Korea, you can pick a version of this panel up from Microcenter for 399 plus tax.


----------



## hodgempls

Also, no custom fees in the US. Given that these panels have gone up in cost on ebay, you might want to consider buying from Microcenter if you have one locally.


----------



## silvinho21

what is the difference between the one in microcenter and the one in korea, here in florida we dont have those stores, i was looking online and they don't carry any korean monitors?


----------



## hodgempls

Same panel but different bezel/stand. I did not the looks of it. here is a link but it is out of stock

http://www.microcenter.com/product/384780/EQ276W_27_IPS_LED_Monitor


----------



## silvinho21

any idea were these aurias are made? i was also looking at this one on amazon but they don't come out tille september 14 http://www.amazon.com/Nixeus-Resolution-2560x1440-Monitor-NX-VUE27/dp/B008M08SN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346305218&sr=8-1&keywords=nixeus


----------



## hodgempls

cheaper here:

http://www.compuplus.com/Monitor/Nixeus-Vue-WQHD-27inch-S-1218348.html

any of these close to you?

http://www.nixeus.com/where-to-buy/


----------



## niciuffo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HybridCore*
> 
> I think it's about $20-$30.
> Edit: $20.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5970&seq=1&format=2
> And a few more.
> http://www.monoprice.com/products/subdepartment.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828#1082808
> You want something that supports at least 33 lbs like the one in the photo. Hopefully it can rise high enough too so the monitor doesn't touch the desk. I think VESA is obvious.


Your stand looks low wuality to me from the photo can you confirm? Is it better than the standard one? High quality stantds cost way too much IMO.

Also, can I remove my HP stand and put it in my Yamakasi? (It's not VESA).


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> any idea were these aurias are made? i was also looking at this one on amazon but they don't come out tille september 14 http://www.amazon.com/Nixeus-Resolution-2560x1440-Monitor-NX-VUE27/dp/B008M08SN6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346305218&sr=8-1&keywords=nixeus


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hodgempls*
> 
> cheaper here:
> http://www.compuplus.com/Monitor/Nixeus-Vue-WQHD-27inch-S-1218348.html
> any of these close to you?
> http://www.nixeus.com/where-to-buy/


It was released on Aug 21 and sold out pretty quick. Sept 14th is the shipment date for the restock. I have that monitor since Friday. So far its is pretty awesome! No dead pixels and no back light bleed. I posted some of my experience with the Nixeus Vue on this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1286519/nixeus-vue-27-s-ips-2560x1440-led-monitor-nx-vue27-usa-brand

The Nixeus Vue with a high quality stand selling for $430 to $450 with free shipping is about the same price as the Multi-input Catleaps...


----------



## kingkio

Monitor arrived at Edinburgh depot today, awaiting payment.

The seller (bigclothcraft) asked me what price I wanted stated on the invoice and if he should mark as a gift, I told him to stick $135 on it which roughly converts to £85. Import and tax came to £18.40.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingkio*
> 
> Monitor arrived at Edinburgh depot today, awaiting payment.
> The seller (bigclothcraft) asked me what price I wanted stated on the invoice and if he should mark as a gift, I told him to stick $135 on it which roughly converts to £85. Import and tax came to £18.40.


you guys are lucky

My monitor cost me 310$ + 100$ customs fee.


----------



## Crezzlin

Anyone managed to De-Bezel and find away to support the monitor in Portrait or landscape? Thanks


----------



## 4514kaiser

Maybe the reason the prices are going up is because LG wants it's new S-ISP monitor price to be competitive with these monitors... since it presumably would have the same screen...... Hope they start producing cheap 30" S-ISP monitors say for $600 since i really want a 30" Or maybe i should just get 2 of these...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4514kaiser*
> 
> Maybe the reason the prices are going up is because LG wants it's new S-ISP monitor price to be competitive with these monitors... since it presumably would have the same screen...... Hope they start producing cheap 30" S-ISP monitors say for $600 since i really want a 30" Or maybe i should just get 2 of these...


With the dozen or so different "new" sellers of these IPS monitors, I predict _everyone_ will be obligated to drop their prices to compete. LG, Samsung, Dell, and HP are all losing money out of this. Just count: on OCN alone, 700+ have bought/will buy/want to buy a Yamakasi/other cheap IPS monitor. At $350 per sale, that's a quarter million dollars that could have been LG's/HP's/etc.'s. OCN isn't the only tech-related forum out there where people speak about these monitors. The big-brands better make their move quick before thousands of their customers jump off to these other new manufacturers. In most cases, a monitor will last you 3-5 years easily; that's 3-5 years LG/Samsung won't earn a sale from you.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> how much did you pay with the warranty and everything?


I paid 350 with warranty as well.









Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## niciuffo

Just ordered the 2703 version for 300$ + 20$ for delivery minutes ago. Seller says it ships in 1 day (?) and I live in Switzerland. I'll let you know when I get it.


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> With the dozen or so different "new" sellers of these IPS monitors, I predict _everyone_ will be obligated to drop their prices to compete. LG, Samsung, Dell, and HP are all losing money out of this. Just count: on OCN alone, 700+ have bought/will buy/want to buy a Yamakasi/other cheap IPS monitor. At $350 per sale, that's a quarter million dollars that could have been LG's/HP's/etc.'s. OCN isn't the only tech-related forum out there where people speak about these monitors. The big-brands better make their move quick before thousands of their customers jump off to these other new manufacturers. In most cases, a monitor will last you 3-5 years easily; that's 3-5 years LG/Samsung won't earn a sale from you.


While they might be taking some sales, I don't think they are taking all that much. I never considered spending $700 on a new monitor so I would have never purchased a 27 inch IPS panel from Dell/Hp/Apple/Samsung etc. However I would spend 300 (350 with Squaretrade warranty) on a new monitor and was willing to take some risk on the catleap. Would I have spent 450 + tax with a one year warranty from a US supplier - probably not. I think I would have stuck with my 4 year old Dell Ultrasharp 2704.


----------



## IcedEarth

It's their own fault for being so greedy.

I can understand how the price could reach £350 - £400 in the UK due to tax and everything else. However Dell sell their U2711 at £520 and Apple sell their Apple Cinema at £899.

If they want to compete, they need to lower their profit margins. It isn't Yamakasi's fault that these companies feel they can rip off average Joe.

I highly doubt Dell or Apple pay any more for these panels than Yamakasi do. In fact they most probably pay less due to the shear amount they buy in bulk.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hodgempls*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> With the dozen or so different "new" sellers of these IPS monitors, I predict _everyone_ will be obligated to drop their prices to compete. LG, Samsung, Dell, and HP are all losing money out of this. Just count: on OCN alone, 700+ have bought/will buy/want to buy a Yamakasi/other cheap IPS monitor. At $350 per sale, that's a quarter million dollars that could have been LG's/HP's/etc.'s. OCN isn't the only tech-related forum out there where people speak about these monitors. The big-brands better make their move quick before thousands of their customers jump off to these other new manufacturers. In most cases, a monitor will last you 3-5 years easily; that's 3-5 years LG/Samsung won't earn a sale from you.
> 
> 
> 
> While they might be taking some sales, I don't think they are taking all that much. I never considered spending $700 on a new monitor so I would have never purchased a 27 inch IPS panel from Dell/Hp/Apple/Samsung etc. However I would spend 300 (350 with Squaretrade warranty) on a new monitor and was willing to take some risk on the catleap. Would I have spent 450 + tax with a one year warranty from a US supplier - probably not. I think I would have stuck with my 4 year old Dell Ultrasharp 2704.
Click to expand...

Well that's what I mean though. If at $300-$350 these "new" companies are profiting, you can just imagine LG/etc. would profit just as much, if not more. By not lowering their prices _now_ to competitive $300-$400 levels, they're losing sales to the new brands. They can lower now to $350, and grab the thousands of people that are buying Yamakasi/Crossover monitors. Smaller profit off all those thousands is better than no profit from them at all (they weren't going to buy their monitors at $600+). All in all it's great in the end to have the new companies succeed, to bring more variety and competition to the display industry. Maybe all of this success will allow Yamakasi/Crossover to expand and get more distributors around the world.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> It's their own fault for being so greedy.
> I can understand how the price could reach £350 - £400 in the UK due to tax and everything else. However Dell sell their U2711 at £520 and Apple sell their Apple Cinema at £899.
> If they want to compete, they need to lower their profit margins. It isn't Yamakasi's fault that these companies feel they can rip off average Joe.
> I highly doubt Dell or Apple pay any more for these panels than Yamakasi do. In fact they most probably pay less due to the shear amount they buy in bulk.


I completely disagree with everything you just said. You cannot compare the cheaply made Korean versions to the Apple or Dell. They just are not similar in any way. And trust me on this when I say there is a HUGE price difference as you move up panel grades. So an A- panel is pretty inexpensive, but the A+ is significantly more - even with buying power factored in. I doubt the profit margin is such that people like yourself would ever purchase one even if they decided to cut prices. Remember the top monitors have so much more to offer than a simple DVI plug in and flimsy case/stand.


----------



## jerrolds

@Scrib Agreed.

Plus Apple/Dell have HUGE brand power and people are willing to pay a premium for their products. They have multiple input and outputs, better overall build quality, and better warranty/return/exchange policies. Plus you can buy them from "reputable" brick and mortar stores.

Right now, they dont have to compete - the average joe doesnt know what a Catleap/Crossover/Shimian is, hell i consider myself a hardcore enthusiast and i only came across this thread a few weeks ago. (promptly ordered a Crossover when i did)

The Koreans HAVE to make their products 1/3rd of the price to compete - and even then people are hesitant on buying over name brands.


----------



## hodgempls

I agree. My Dell 2407 is much better built than my Q270 in every aspect - the Q270 is not remotely in the same league regarding this. I got great service with the Dell, awesome build quality, 3 yr warranty with next replacement if it broke etc. I am not saying that the Q270 is a bad monitor - the picture blows my 2407 out of the water. But you do get a second rate panel, possible dead pixels/back light issues/banding, questionable customer service, etc. With that, I am still very pleased with my Q270 and will be selling my 2407 tonight.


----------



## Napwneon

Are the catleaps (for example, the 300 dollar 27-inch sold by bigclothcraft) still difficult to mount? Is the process for this monitor as involved as the one on the front page?


----------



## Cavey00

You mean the one for $330 now? Price just jumped. Bummer.


----------



## silvinho21

Guys did any of you have to pay for customs tax or fee after getting your monitor i'm going to be using Dream seller on ebay since he seems to have the best prices and all of these monitors prices are jumping up because of their popularity


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

US has a free trade agreement with Korea so no import duties here...


----------



## silvinho21

kool thats awesome what buyer do you recommend in ebay and do you think that getting the pixel perfect monitor is worth it?


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvinho21*
> 
> kool thats awesome what buyer do you recommend in ebay and do you think that getting the pixel perfect monitor is worth it?


From what I have read, the general consensus of this and other threads is that it does not really improve your odds of getting a monitor without dead pixels. It seems to be more of a marketing gimmick designed to get some more cash from you. If you get a monitor with some dead pixels, it seems most will refund the fee but not replace the monitor. On the other hand if you get a monitor free of dead/stuck pixels you just paid more for it than you otherwise would have.....


----------



## JayXMonsta

Just found out 2 great things about my catleaps








1) I can set it to 1080p (because the computer does the scaling) which is good for playing games since 1440p doesn't work so well on some games.
2) Also I had no idea that even the basic ones have a brightness control


----------



## jimlaheysadrunk

hey guys

ive been lurking this thread and OC.net for quite a while. your information was very helpful in my decision to buy a catleap. i got my catleap on monday of this week and it was great until today. i came home from work and pressed space to unluck my computer and my login screen came up for roughly a second, then went black. the power LED went from green to solid red. all i get from it now is the red power LED. when i press the power button nothing happens.

i looked at the troubleshooting FAQ and tried the suggestions that i could ( multimeter is at work, going to purchase another DVI cable as well) but im still getting the red LED only. my suspicion is the power brick, but ill know more tomorrow when i can test it with my voltmeter. just so im being as detailed as possible for you guys ill post my system specs and all that.

2500k stock
gigabyte GA-Z68x-UD3H-B
8gb ddr3 corsair vengeance
asus GTX570 DirectCUii stock speeds
Windows 8 Release Preview

all my drivers are current. the monitor had been working just fine prior to today. any suggestions and comments are welcome and appreciated.

Thanks everybody!


----------



## soldieroftafari

good lord the prices have gone up!! I couldn't even afford to buy one now at this price, thank goodness I jumped into the deep end when I did. My internet gambles rarely go (or look) this good. If something happens its all on squaretrade now. I didn't want to take any chances, got the catleap for 309, power brick for 24, and SQtrade for 49 (no coupon). Totally worth it for this panel. For the poster up above, its probably the power brick, those things are SO cheap!


----------



## Cavey00

Yeah, but that's economics for you. They don't owe us anything in keeping the price so low. Too bad I waited so long, now I'm hoping the 2703 I bought won't be too bad. Seller now guarantees up to 15 dead pixels instead of 5, and originally I wanted the q270. Those of you with stuck or dead pixels, is it really all that noticable?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Yeah, but that's economics for you. They don't owe us anything in keeping the price so low. Too bad I waited so long, now I'm hoping the 2703 I bought won't be too bad. Seller now guarantees up to 15 dead pixels instead of 5, and originally I wanted the q270. Those of you with stuck or dead pixels, is it really all that noticable?


No. I actually realized I had two stuck pixels near the center of the screen after about a week. And I noticed that after my second serious run-through for checking for pixels. Even if the pixel is glowing bright red in your face at the center of the screen, it's hard to notice because of the high resolution of the monitor, there are just too many pixels to begin with. (Unless you literally sit less than 1 foot from monitor, not good for eye health I think.)


----------



## niciuffo

Well, glad I bought mine before the price growth


----------



## Mattbag

wow prices are up almost 200 dollars from when i bought mine 2 months ago!!!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If you don't notice any dead pixels why on earth would you go looking for them???


----------



## eternal7trance

Yea I spent about $200 on my catleap. It's crazy seeing the prices go up.


----------



## niciuffo

Whoa, the one catleap that was for sale 2 days ago for 295$, went up to 395$ in one day, and today is for sale for 425$. If you want this monitor but it NOW, since in a couple of days you will not be able to find one cheaper than 400 bucks.
(Cheapest one right now is 330$)


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> Whoa, the one catleap that was for sale 2 days ago for 295$, went up to 395$ in one day, and today is for sale for 425$. If you want this monitor but it NOW, since in a couple of days you will not be able to find one cheaper than 400 bucks.
> (Cheapest one right now is 330$)


With so many other brands available, why are so many here in shock about the price increases?

Buy something else and send a message.


----------



## hodgempls

It seems there has been a potential decrease in quality on some newer models - i.e. more dead pixels before a screen is considered defective. Perhaps this is driving up the price on the older models. Has anyone had a chance to compare the screens on the Q270 and the 2703?


----------



## Cavey00

Oh I don't plan on checking closely. I sit a normal 2-3 feet I think away and as long as it's not obvious, I don't care if there are some defect pixels. Hell, there are times when I don't dust it for months and I don't notice that on the screen!

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Stealth Pyros

I've noticed many of the eBay sellers have "upped" their policy to count anything over 5 dead pixels on the screen or even just 1 dead pixel in the center as defective, where they previously said anything up to 15 total is "normal." Honestly I'm fine with 1-3 dead pixels, they're definitely not noticeable with pixels that are 0.2331mm².


----------



## IcedEarth

Due to the price of the Catleap I ended up buying two Crossovers yesterday.

The Catleaps were $389 and the Crossover was $388 from BigClothCraft.

The Crossover has a much sturdier stand, that has tilt, swivel, pivot and elevation and it also looks better in my opinion.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Due to the price of the Catleap I ended up buying two Crossovers yesterday.
> The Catleaps were $389 and the Crossover was $388 from BigClothCraft.
> The Crossover has a much sturdier stand, that has tilt, swivel, pivot and elevation and it also looks better in my opinion.


Just checked, this is legit will be getting some crossovers instead.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Due to the price of the Catleap I ended up buying two Crossovers yesterday.
> The Catleaps were $389 and the Crossover was $388 from BigClothCraft.
> The Crossover has a much sturdier stand, that has tilt, swivel, pivot and elevation and it also looks better in my opinion.
> 
> 
> 
> Just checked, this is legit will be getting some crossovers instead.
Click to expand...

Just bought a Crossover at $325 shipped, should get here next week


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Just checked, this is legit will be getting some crossovers instead.


Some?

I thought you only needed one more Catleap to have a trio?

Don't tell me I just ordered a Crossover when you're going to put a Catleap up for sale soon?









Also for anyone interested. There is a cheaper Crossover available that has a stand with 'tilt only' function. So you don't get pivot, swivel or elevation.

I preferred to just pay the little extra for a stand that does everything though.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Just checked, this is legit will be getting some crossovers instead.
> 
> 
> 
> Some?
> 
> I thought you only needed one more Catleap to have a trio?
> 
> Don't tell me I just ordered a Crossover when you're going to put a Catleap up for sale soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also for anyone interested. There is a cheaper Crossover available that has a stand with 'tilt only' function. So you don't get pivot, swivel or elevation.
> 
> I preferred to just pay the little extra for a stand that does everything though.
Click to expand...

I got the one without the pivot, since I'd never really use it with a single display and if I ever go for a triple display setup I'd probably get a nice mount for them.


----------



## IcedEarth

I mainly paid extra for the elevation feature to be honest.

I don't think I'd ever use the pivot or swivel functions.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> I mainly paid extra for the elevation feature to be honest.
> 
> I don't think I'd ever use the pivot or swivel functions.


Wait a minute... mine says "LED-P," isn't that pivot? I know we can't post eBay links, but can we post item numbers?


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Wait a minute... mine says "LED-P," isn't that pivot? I know we can't post eBay links, but can we post item numbers?


Yes.

The LED one is the basic stand with tilt only.

LED-P is the one with tilt, swivel, pivot and elevation.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Some?
> I thought you only needed one more Catleap to have a trio?
> Don't tell me I just ordered a Crossover when you're going to put a Catleap up for sale soon?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also for anyone interested. There is a cheaper Crossover available that has a stand with 'tilt only' function. So you don't get pivot, swivel or elevation.
> I preferred to just pay the little extra for a stand that does everything though.


I think id rather have three of the same then de bezel them, so ill probably sell the one i have to my dad, (cant sell it on here) and then get three crossovers.
And I only have the one ATM, i really want to get a trio but its damn expensive when the adapters are £70 so id be looking at £300-£330 just to have one that worked.


----------



## IcedEarth

If I'd have known I would have bought it off you privately.









Hey ho, I don't regret buying the Crossover.

What do you mean the adapters are expensive? What is this 'adapter' you speak of?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> If I'd have known I would have bought it off you privately.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hey ho, I don't regret buying the Crossover.
> What do you mean the adapters are expensive? What is this 'adapter' you speak of?


Displayport to DL-DVI £70 a pop at scan http://www.scan.co.uk/products/dell-bizlink-active-displayport-to-dvi-(dual-link)-adapter-1080p-ready
You can usually find some used on thebay but is rare.
+ with school starting i wouldnt have the time for gaming so i thought it would be pointless to have bougth two more


----------



## eternal7trance

Catleap Monitor Club = Lets talk about every other monitor besides a catleap in here too.


----------



## niciuffo

To all the 2703 owners: does it have OSD? Also, is the stand only tilt-able? (and does it suck?)


----------



## ivanlabrie

I think the clubs should be united in the same thread...or oganized in some other way.
Most people don't mind the brand, but just want to know which korean ips monitor is best for his particular needs.
Just sayin'


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivanlabrie*
> 
> I think the clubs should be united in the same thread...or oganized in some other way.
> Most people don't mind the brand, but just want to know which korean ips monitor is best for his particular needs.
> Just sayin'


Yeah, so people can ignore 2000 pages instead of only 800.

Half (or more) of the questions in this thread get asked again and again every couple of pages, not sure what would be gained by merging the threads that couldn't be accomplished by simply _reading_ one thread or the other (guilty myself, I admit).

You'd think a comprehensive FAQ in the very first post would be a start, but you can tell by reading some of the posts that many people have never read it.


----------



## ivanlabrie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Yeah, so people can ignore 2000 pages instead of only 800.
> Half (or more) of the questions in this thread get asked again and again every couple of pages, not sure what would be gained by merging the threads that couldn't be accomplished by simply _reading_ one thread or the other (guilty myself, I admit).
> You'd think a comprehensive FAQ in the very first post would be a start, but you can tell by reading some of the posts that many people have never read it.


Perhaps another thread that serves as a general FAQ with links to each club, and pics.
Sounds like a good idea, perhaps it could be featured or something...
What do you think?


----------



## mgmtm3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> To all the 2703 owners: does it have OSD? Also, is the stand only tilt-able? (and does it suck?)


No it does not have a OSD. There are 7 buttons but only 3 of them have actual function. The buttons are for power, brightness up, and brightness down. I prefer the stand on the 2703, it is pretty stable and has very minimal wobble. There are many other monitor stands that are better but this one does the job well enough. It does have a tilt function.


----------



## niciuffo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mgmtm3*
> 
> No it does not have a OSD. There are 7 buttons but only 3 of them have actual function. The buttons are for power, brightness up, and brightness down. I prefer the stand on the 2703, it is pretty stable and has very minimal wobble. There are many other monitor stands that are better but this one does the job well enough. It does have a tilt function.


Thanks for the info, by the way what do you mean by "only 3 of them have a function"? Does that mean there are 4 buttons that are completely useless?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yes. They aren't hooked up to anything...


----------



## lizardking88mph

Ok, so I've been reading this forum for awhile and decided to take the plunge. Ordered a yamakasi 2703 from bigclothcraft last Sunday and received it yesterday. All looked great and no dead pixels, but I came home from work today and noticed a line on the lower right side of the monitor. Noticed it on a white background. Further inspection I found out it is a scratch on the tempered glass!! Here's the craziest part: it's on the inside of the glass!







It's about 2 inches long and I notice it right away now on a light colored background. I have emailed BCC and not received a response yet. Damn! Has anyone else had a scratch on the tempered glass? It's definitely an eyesore. I think I would have settled for one dead pixel over this.







This is 2 inches long. Here's a pic of it:



Whatcha think guys? If he gave me 50 bux back, maybe i could live with it.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lizardking88mph*
> 
> Ok, so I've been reading this forum for awhile and decided to take the plunge. Ordered a yamakasi 2703 from bigclothcraft last Sunday and received it yesterday. All looked great and no dead pixels, but I came home from work today and noticed a line on the lower right side of the monitor. Noticed it on a white background. Further inspection I found out it is a scratch on the tempered glass!! Here's the craziest part: it's on the inside of the glass!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's about 2 inches long and I notice it right away now on a light colored background. I have emailed BCC and not received a response yet. Damn! Has anyone else had a scratch on the tempered glass? It's definitely an eyesore. I think I would have settled for one dead pixel over this.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is 2 inches long. Here's a pic of it:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Whatcha think guys? If he gave me 50 bux back, maybe i could live with it.


Id say get a partial refund, as its not dust id say you could get some cash back.
If its that annoying you could always take off the glass and you'd have a perfect monitor and get cash back


----------



## lizardking88mph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Id say get a partial refund, as its not dust id say you could get some cash back.
> If its that annoying you could always take off the glass and you'd have a perfect monitor and get cash back


Ok, how do you remove the tempered glass? Too bad, I liked the tempered glass.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

That looks like a nice little slice in your screen - tough decision to send back or keep it


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lizardking88mph*
> 
> Ok, how do you remove the tempered glass? Too bad, I liked the tempered glass.


Do a google search. There's a guide for this for Shimians.


----------



## lizardking88mph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> That looks like a nice little slice in your screen - tough decision to send back or keep it


I know.







Man, I feel like God is always picking on me. I have been googling having a scratch on the tempered glass on these monitors and am really coming up with nothing. I keep seeing where it says the tempered glass is scratch resistant. So I think, "why me?" As if we didn't have to gamble on enough with dead pixels and such. I can't stand that scratch now. What a bum deal.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Do a google search. There's a guide for this for Shimians.


Yeah I saw a youtube video and yeah, totally different removal. The bezels are completely different. I mean really, I'm scared I'll make it worse if I even decide to do that. Man, I've gone from really pleased with this purchase to totally pissed. I mean really, how the hell is there scratches on the INSIDE!? Seriously?


----------



## Chewy

Just bought an achieva shimian from big cloth craft







The prices are going up fast and there are still a few around at $300

Be quick people


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

If the scratch bothers you that much just return it...


----------



## lizardking88mph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> If the scratch bothers you that much just return it...


BCC is not emailing me back. Don't I have to wait and get an RMA before I can ship it back? Oh crud, and does that mean I have to pay return shipping?


----------



## hodgempls

File a paypal claim - that will get his attention. If you do not want the monitor, you will need to pay to ship it back to get your paypal refund - Paypal will rule in your favor on the dispute. However, BCC does not want to take the monitor back - he might offer you some money back to resolve the paypal dispute if you agree to keep the monitor.


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chewy*
> 
> Just bought an achieva shimian from big cloth craft
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The prices are going up fast and there are still a few around at $300
> Be quick people


With prices pushing the 400 range, if I were looking to purchase now, I think I would go for a US distributor. The few dollars savings doesn't seem worth the risk to me.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hodgempls*
> 
> With prices pushing the 400 range, if I were looking to purchase now, I think I would go for a US distributor. The few dollars savings doesn't seem worth the risk to me.


This. I'm trying to guess at why they are skyrocketting so quickly. Popularity of course, but could it be more? I got in at the $300 mark but just barely, and it wasn't the panel I originally wanted. That same panel I bought on the 29th of last month is $100 more today. I wouldn't have bought it at that price. The Korean sellers are either going to screw themselves over by jacking the price too high and killing the craze or they know something we don't.


----------



## hodgempls

It could be demand for A and A- panels is going up due to other distributors getting in on the act thus driving higher prices. The US distributor cost cannot be much greater than the Korean distributor's. Glad I purchased mine for 300 when I did.


----------



## niciuffo

What about the tracking number? I ordered mine two days ago and they didn't send me anything. Am I missing something?


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> What about the tracking number? I ordered mine two days ago and they didn't send me anything. Am I missing something?


Well BCC has a tracking number on my purchase page but it doesn't work. That's not surprising though because I asked him to test it prior to shipment. He said it would take an additional 1-3 business days to test and he would update the tracking number in ebay once he shipped it. Like I posted before, he was great with communication when I was purchasing. Others have said he won't respond. It's probably just like any other small business, when they get busy things get neglected once in a while. I guess we'll see if that number gets updated or if the monitor just shows up on my doorstep. As of now the tracking number doesn't show any movement.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Hehe, got my two Shimians for $400 total from a fellow OCN member...


----------



## IcedEarth

I've noticed with BCC that they don't respond to many questions.

I think their English is limited, and they only respond to generic questions, everything else gets ignored because they have no idea what we're asking them.


----------



## niciuffo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Well BCC has a tracking number on my purchase page but it doesn't work. That's not surprising though because I asked him to test it prior to shipment. He said it would take an additional 1-3 business days to test and he would update the tracking number in ebay once he shipped it. Like I posted before, he was great with communication when I was purchasing. Others have said he won't respond. It's probably just like any other small business, when they get busy things get neglected once in a while. I guess we'll see if that number gets updated or if the monitor just shows up on my doorstep. As of now the tracking number doesn't show any movement.


Where exactly is it? I can't find it anywhere.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *niciuffo*
> 
> Where exactly is it? I can't find it anywhere.


MyEbay tab, Summary, under sales there is the purchase I made from BCC. Has the description, under that the sellers name, beneath that is the sales date and tracking number.
Edit: shows up under Purchase History too. That's a little shorter list


----------



## niciuffo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> MyEbay tab, Summary, under sales there is the purchase I made from BCC. Has the description, under that the sellers name, beneath that is the sales date and tracking number.
> Edit: shows up under Purchase History too. That's a little shorter list


I am sorry to keep asking but I really need some help (I'm just that stupid







)
So here is a screen of my purchase history, which is translated in italian from german (I can't understand anything there):


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!














Can you tell me where I can see it? Cause I can't (and it's 30 minutes I'm trying to find it).


----------



## Cavey00

That is painfully small but it looks like he hasn't generated shipping on it yet. The little shipping box isn't lit up which means a) he hasn't prepped it for shipping or b) he hasn't entered the info for that yet.


----------



## exhibitO

Does anyone have any recommendations for adding LED lights to backlight?

These are what I found http://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon

They are for cars, does anyone have any thoughts?


----------



## Cavey00

If it's a backlight does it really need to be in a ribbon like that? I mean if it's behind your monitor shining against a wall there has to be some cheaper options out there for lighting. Those strips of led ribbons are friggin expensive! I'm thinking any sort of pc case lighting would do just fine if you were just attatching it to the backside of your monitor that no one is seeing.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> Does anyone have any recommendations for adding LED lights to backlight?
> 
> These are what I found http://www.oznium.com/led-ribbon
> 
> They are for cars, does anyone have any thoughts?


I've had this one from Antec for quite a while and it has not died on me:

http://www.amazon.com/Antec-Halo-LED-Bias-Lighting/dp/B0053B347M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346540187&sr=8-1&keywords=antec+led


----------



## tombom

I had the Antec halo lights for a while too. It's very nice but I didn't like it so much for my dual monitor setup (I use my shimian for "cinematic" games and my 120hz viewsonic for comp tf2 mainly) and moving my monitors around with such a small usb cord was a pain. Other than that, it was an excellent product I plan on replacing soon (I accidentally ripped mine while moving monitors).


----------



## FishHeadswg

I've noticed as the days go by my black gets worse and worse along the edges. It looks like backlight bleed, but I'm not sure why that would start appearing afterwards.

Has anyone else noticed this?


----------



## Cavey00

Just a heads up, BCC is out of stock on a lot of these monitors and others aren't passing his quality standards, so I'm waiting for the one I have ordered from him. In before the price increase. He has been great with communication and gave me some options if I didn't want to wait. I'm not in a rush and if I'm promised a quality monitor for my patience, I'm ok with the deal. Hopefully the end result will be something worth boasting about.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Waiting for my Crossover from dream-seller. Still hasn't shipped out =/ Unless they just didn't mark it as shipped.


----------



## integlspwr

The cheapest right now is from dhsummer for $280 shipped. Does anyone think they will get cheaper within the next 4-6 weeks ?


----------



## IcedEarth

Not cheaper than $280

The popular sellers are pricing them at $390 and I think those prices will definitely reduce. However I don't think you will see many under $300 from this point on.


----------



## Delphiwizard

I'm glad i bought mine when i did, Aug 12th, $309.9.
What was the lowest price for a catleap SE in the past periods?


----------



## Chewy

Achieva shimian's ipsi tempered glass models going for $299 from bigclothcraft


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Is this the right place to track a DHL shipment from dream-seller? http://www.dhl.com/content/g0/en/express/tracking.html


----------



## niciuffo

BBC doesn't have anymore of these panels atm. They sent me a message:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Hello
> I am general manager, Martin.
> I am really sorry about that.
> I received 20 pcs x monitor of 2703.
> My staff checked all monitor.
> But all monitor didn't passed strict personal test.
> 
> Our rule is more strict than other sellers.
> So, lot of monitor are not passed test.
> 
> So, I am embarrassed.
> Now, I tried find 2703 with perfect pixel from other distributer.
> But, 2703 will be in stock within 2 weeks.
> 
> 1)If you wait and want to reship perfect monitor,
> I will send monitor that passed test within 2 weeks
> as my apology, I will discount 5% of sum amount.
> 
> or
> 
> 2)If you wait and want to ship another monitor with tempered glass,
> I will ship yours immediately.
> 
> Recommanded models are two.
> which are Matrix Neo
> LINK
> 
> and Achieva IPSI
> LINK


Then they sent me another one:
Quote:


> OR
> 
> 3)If you want to refund,
> I will refund all money at once.
> 
> I am again sorry for whole situation.
> 
> I see.
> Anything can;t be replaced with your uncomfortable feeling.
> I would visit or call you about this situation and make formal apology to you.
> But distance between you and me is so far.
> I am sorry that what I can do for you is only frank apology.
> 
> I will try my best to communicate with you.
> I appreciate your generosity.
> 
> best Regards
> Thanks
> 
> Martinin
> 
> - bigclothcraft






What do you guys think would be the best decision? I'd opt for the pixel perfect thing.

EDIT: I told 'em to send me another monitor with perfect pixel. They say they are going to get them in about 2 weeks, so I expect it in 3-4.


----------



## wkduffy

Could this thread get any longer? OK, I'll try:

Monitor has been fine (showing bios screen, everything) for several months until a few days ago. Then started having the flashing green light problem, black screen. Hooking an older, lower rez monitor to a second DVI port on my 460GTX, suddenly the catleap came to life, at that lower rez. Yay, it's not broken.

I discovered that the Catleap simply will not boot when set to native res of 2560x1440. Setting the rez to something lower, say 1920x1200, it boots fine (even shows bios). But if I set the rez to 2560x1440 and reboot the machine, flashing green light only (although for a few months, there were no probs at all).

Of course, the (pain in the ass) fix is to keep lowering my rez before shutting down, then increasing it while in use, lowering it again, etc...

I did a clean install of latest nVidia drivers. I have "no scaling" ticked, so nothing is scaled.

Anyone else have this same issue? Ideas?


----------



## Dubplate

I've had this monitor for a few months now and its by far the best monitor I've ever owned. Can never go back to lower res and TN panel. Never realised how bad TN is until I put it next to my Catleap. Wish I had paid a little more attention and gotten the black version instead of white though


----------



## Cavey00

So if you leave both monitors hooked up and leave it on the higher res, will it come to life at the log in screen? This contradicts a post I saw earlier saying that the catleap will not work at the lower resolution, and would only come to life when forced at the higher res, therefore not displaying anything until windows is loaded.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## wkduffy

Cavey00: Yes. If I shut down the computer and the monitor is still at native rez (2560x1440), when I boot it back up, I get flashing green light, black screen (it doesn't even come back to life after I can hear that Windows has finished loading). If I hook up an older ASUS LCD (with a native res 1680x1050) to the second DVI port on my 460GTX Cyclone, then both monitors boot at that lower rez OK.

After that, i can disconnect the ASUS monitor and change the Catleap to native 2560x1440, and it works fine...until I shut it down and try to reboot.

Clearly the cable is fine, and I would presume internal connections are fine, or else it wouldn't boot at all. I did a clean install of drivers. For now, before shutting down, I am lowering the rez from native so that the screen will at least boot, but what a pain.

Perplexed...especially since this started occuring out of the blue. I bought this from greensum last May or so. Now that I think about it, I am running a color profile I downloaded from here (I think) to correct the heavy greens on screen. I like the corrected color profile, but maybe I should remove it?


----------



## Hokies83

Anywho i just bought a 27inch 1920x1080p 120hz 3d panel... I am going to be comparing it to the 60hz catleap with video etc...

Trying to do something to make a clear diff between panels and also to put any myths / Fanboy claims down... Stay tuned i have asked the staff to be able to start the thread to get some followers going..


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkduffy*
> 
> Cavey00: Yes. If I shut down the computer and the monitor is still at native rez (2560x1440), when I boot it back up, I get flashing green light, black screen (it doesn't even come back to life after I can hear that Windows has finished loading). If I hook up an older ASUS LCD (with a native res 1680x1050) to the second DVI port on my 460GTX Cyclone, then both monitors boot at that lower rez OK.
> After that, i can disconnect the ASUS monitor and change the Catleap to native 2560x1440, and it works fine...until I shut it down and try to reboot.
> Clearly the cable is fine, and I would presume internal connections are fine, or else it wouldn't boot at all. I did a clean install of drivers. For now, before shutting down, I am lowering the rez from native so that the screen will at least boot, but what a pain.
> Perplexed...especially since this started occuring out of the blue. I bought this from greensum last May or so. Now that I think about it, I am running a color profile I downloaded from here (I think) to correct the heavy greens on screen. I like the corrected color profile, but maybe I should remove it?


Just off the top here.

Might the refresh rate be changing depending on how you boot?
Obviously the cable, internal electronic circuits and the video card are good and capable of 2560x1440


----------



## Cavey00

Wk, that is really weird. I've got nothing, just been stoking the fire for any potential problems I might have to tackle once mine arrives. I've read countless pages on this thread and that's why I was surprised when you said your's will only boot at the lower res. It was my understanding that wasn't possible, which is why most don't see bios (if I recall). So which do you blame in your case? Monitor, card, something gone wrong in your software? Curious to see what solves it.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## baldbrah

why is the price for the catleaps doubled for both the black and white version?


----------



## dmxdex2020

So you cant get these in 120hz anymore?


----------



## spo0linup

Just an update to my situation
Green sum paid return shipping for my monitor, received it on the 30th. I've been trying to get through to them every day since then. The majority of my emails have been ignored, however.
Tonight he tells me that he has no Q270 SE Tempered glass with less than 5 dead pixels, however he'll send me a Q270 Non-Tempered glass, perfect pixel as compensation. I agreed to the deal.

Two hours later he sends me an email saying, "Oops, we already refunded your money."

There has been no activity in my paypal since last month, and definitely no refund.
This is getting interesting, to say the least.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmxdex2020*
> 
> So you cant get these in 120hz anymore?


Yes but they are way more expensive than the normal ones.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baldbrah*
> 
> why is the price for the catleaps doubled for both the black and white version?


They are getting popular and they know it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spo0linup*
> 
> Just an update to my situation
> Green sum paid return shipping for my monitor, received it on the 30th. I've been trying to get through to them every day since then. The majority of my emails have been ignored, however.
> Tonight he tells me that he has no Q270 SE Tempered glass with less than 5 dead pixels, however he'll send me a Q270 Non-Tempered glass, perfect pixel as compensation. I agreed to the deal.
> Two hours later he sends me an email saying, "Oops, we already refunded your money."
> There has been no activity in my paypal since last month, and definitely no refund.
> This is getting interesting, to say the least.


Yea that sucks but hopefully it works out. I prefer the non glass because it's easier to clean and less chance of getting one with dust inside the glass.


----------



## mgmtm3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Yes but they are way more expensive than the normal ones.
> They are getting popular and they know it.
> Yea that sucks but hopefully it works out. I prefer the non glass because it's easier to clean and less chance of getting one with dust inside the glass.


I have glass that has no dust at all. Also I would say that glass is a lot easier to clean than just LCD screen. With an LCD screen you have to be very careful how you wipe the screen and you also need to watch out what kind of cleaner you use. Glass is just wipe with windex and you are done.


----------



## TurboMach1

is it worth buying one of the models that can be run at higher then 60hz if its being used on a computer that cant display the full 120hz in some games? ive got a prodigy/ITX build that can only support 1 card and i planned on using a 670 shortly which wont support 120fps in games like BF3. it it worth getting the overclockable ones and running it at say 70-80hz? or just stick with a 60hz one for less money and enjoy high resolution goodness at 60fps?


----------



## .:hybrid:.

Can someone explain why the HD5770 is not a supported video card?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.:hybrid:.*
> 
> Can someone explain why the HD5770 is not a supported video card?


Those graphs are inaccurate, as long as your card has a dual link dvi port, the monitor will [email protected] resolution


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *.:hybrid:.*
> 
> Can someone explain why the HD5770 is not a supported video card?
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/content/type/61/id/1032790/width/350/height/700


They probably "tested" (or simply looked at) a version of the 5770 that only has VGA/display port.


----------



## plum

5770 will work as long as it has DVI-D, however it might not display the BIOS, which is what they mean by ad-board.


----------



## Shrimpykins

I'm trying to decipher the versions of the monitors on ebay, maybe someone can help.

What's the difference between these monitors:

New YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2703 LED 27" 2560X1440 WQHD IPS DVI Monitor Tempered glass $495

New Yamakasi 2703 LED 27" 2560X1440WQHD LG-IPS Tempered glass DVI-Dual Monitor $525

New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 LED SE 27"2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor $529

New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 Computer Monitor + Tempered glass $573

I'd like to order one of these but there are so many different postings at different prices I am not sure if they are just priced differently and are the same thing or if they are all different.


----------



## kazmuzik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shrimpykins*
> 
> I'm trying to decipher the versions of the monitors on ebay, maybe someone can help.
> What's the difference between these monitors:
> New YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2703 LED 27" 2560X1440 WQHD IPS DVI Monitor Tempered glass $495
> New Yamakasi 2703 LED 27" 2560X1440WQHD LG-IPS Tempered glass DVI-Dual Monitor $525
> New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 LED SE 27"2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D Dual Computer Monitor $529
> New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 Computer Monitor + Tempered glass $573
> I'd like to order one of these but there are so many different postings at different prices I am not sure if they are just priced differently and are the same thing or if they are all different.


http://www.witechit.co.kr/new_product01.html
2703 has only one model, so the 1st one and the 2nd one are the same.
Q270 has several models. Both the 3rd one and the 4th one are Q270 LED SE, but the 4th one has tempered glass.

Recently, I purchased 2703 at $295, and plan to buy another one,
but the price of Yamakasi's has been largely increased, so I may choose Achieva Shimian.


----------



## WeimTime

So I took off the back panel of my catleap to take off the stand for an arm to put on instead. After I was all said and done. I plugged everything in and turned it on. I get a blank screen with the back-lite lit up. At first I thought it was a lose wire so I unscrewed everything again and checked. Nope, everything was in place and nothing was lose as far as i could tell.

I did note that my pc recognizes that it's there under the display options in the control panel, but the monitor continues to show only a blank screen with the back-lite lit up.

I'm legitametly scared that I may have caused some irreparable damage. Please help guys. Any advice would be appreciated.


----------



## bobtuna

Hey guys,

I was planning to purchase one of these on the weekends. The last time I saw them they were around the $300 mark, now they have dramatically increased to the $500 mark. Does anyone know the reasons for the surge in the price and will it fall back to its original price?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobtuna*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was planning to purchase one of these on the weekends. The last time I saw them they were around the $300 mark, now they have dramatically increased to the $500 mark. Does anyone know the reasons for the surge in the price and will it fall back to its original price?


Best bet to get a Shiman before they surge the prices up on those to.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobtuna*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was planning to purchase one of these on the weekends. The last time I saw them they were around the $300 mark, now they have dramatically increased to the $500 mark. Does anyone know the reasons for the surge in the price and will it fall back to its original price?


Supply and demand. Basic economics...


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bobtuna*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I was planning to purchase one of these on the weekends. The last time I saw them they were around the $300 mark, now they have dramatically increased to the $500 mark. Does anyone know the reasons for the surge in the price and will it fall back to its original price?


I am so glad I got them at $300.


----------



## jsmoother2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Supply and demand. Basic economics...


I suppose you're correct, but we tend to assume consumer demand for these models has skyrocketed.

Anyone else note the large amount of newly announced IPS monitors being offered by the major brands. 23", 27" and a 21:9 29". It seems that production is now being shared between many more assemblers.


----------



## Chewy

There's still a good few options at around the $300 mark, Dreamseller, Redcap and bigclothcraft to name a few


----------



## matisto27

Hey i'm looking to buy me a yamakasi catleap but have few questions about this
I would buy this for gaming only but would like to know few things first because there are alot of models

1) if you take a screen with hdmi on it will this increase inputlag ?
2) are there still screens on sale on ebay who let you overclock your screen to 120 hz if so which ones ?
3) also i would like to have the better sturdy stand for this screen
4) wich cable would you need to connect your screen with your pc and support 120 hz ?
5) would a single 680 gtx be enough for 2560x1440 and 120 hz ?

and maybe if someone is willing (don't need too) but listing all models you have and the difference between them

so in overall if i would like hdmi (if not increasing input lag) 120 hz and sturdy stand wich model would that be ?
greets
Mathieu


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> Hey i'm looking to buy me a yamakasi catleap but have few questions about this
> I would buy this for gaming only but would like to know few things first because there are alot of models
> 1) if you take a screen with hdmi on it will this increase inputlag ?
> 2) are there still screens on sale on ebay who let you overclock your screen to 120 hz if so which ones ?
> 3) also i would like to have the better sturdy stand for this screen
> 4) wich cable would you need to connect your screen with your pc and support 120 hz ?
> 5) would a single 680 gtx be enough for 2560x1440 and 120 hz ?
> and maybe if someone is willing (don't need too) but listing all models you have and the difference between them
> so in overall if i would like hdmi (if not increasing input lag) 120 hz and sturdy stand wich model would that be ?
> greets
> Mathieu


You can't have it all.

Firstly the multi-inputs are reported to increase input lag. The ones capable of reaching 120hz have only DVI-D input and require a dual-link DVI-D cable to reach 120hz( 24AWG ones are the recommended ones).

As to the stand, the 120hz ones have a crap stand. You can remove it and VESA mount, however you have to take the monitor apart to do it(there is a guide somewhere).

As to a single 680 gtx being enough for 2560x1440 and 120hz. The answer is no, you need to Sli 2x680Gtx to hit 120fps. It is complicated as you need to tinker a bit to get it to overclock. Also the latest nVidia beta drivers limit the overclock to 82hz. You can still hit 120hz with the latest WHQL nVidia drivers, however the cap with Sli is only 100hz. There are hacked AMD drivers out there which allow you to hit 120hz, including in crossfire.

Lastly are the 120hz screens on sale on ebay? The answer is no. You can get them, but I can't tell you where.

Good luck.

Bo0GeRs


----------



## matisto27

well it's only for gaming that i would want a 120 hz (is difference big between 60 vs 120 hz?)
So only place i could buy a 120 hz at the moment is @ 120hz.net ? the ones that are on sale with ebay can't be overclocked to 120 hz?
If i buy a 120 hz screen will there be a cable included (dvi dual link) Is this the same cable that you have when you connect your 680 gtx to a tn panel screen ? or is this a special cable?
Where can you buy this special cable ?
sorry for all those questions but i want to be well informed when purchasing monitor

Also why isn't there yet a 120 hz 2560x1440 screen out there ?
Native without overclocking
greets
Mathieu


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bo0GeRs*
> 
> As to a single 680 gtx being enough for 2560x1440 and 120hz. The answer is no, you need to Sli 2x680Gtx to hit 120fps.


Yet on the Catleap 



, it shows a single GTX 680 hitting 120Hz.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I can guarantee you that a single 680 will NOT be hitting 120fps in BF3 on Ultra. My CF 7970's can't even hit 120fps at 1440P...


----------



## WeimTime

So I took off the back panel of my catleap to take off the stand for an arm to put on instead. After I was all said and done. I plugged everything in and turned it on. I get a blank screen with the back-lite lit up. At first I thought it was a lose wire so I unscrewed everything again and checked. Nope, everything was in place and nothing was lose as far as i could tell.

I did note that my pc recognizes that it's there under the display options in the control panel, but the monitor continues to show only a blank screen with the back-lite lit up.

I'm legitametly scared that I may have caused some irreparable damage. Please help guys. Any advice would be appreciated.

I really think it's something within the monitor. But I have no idea what the cable would even look like.

Does anybody have any ideas?


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Could be coincidence. Monitor failing may have nothing to do with what you did. Doesn't sound good though. Flip back a few pages, I remember someone saying their Catleap didn't work and when they opened it up there was a connector disconnected. I'd suggest taking the back off and visually inspecting all connections on the PCB...


----------



## londonfire93

Is there anywhere i can purchase replacement circuit boars or ribbon cables?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I can guarantee you that a single 680 will NOT be hitting 120fps in BF3 on Ultra. My CF 7970's can't even hit 120fps at 1440P...


He never mentioned 120fps, or BF3 on Ultra. He asked if a single GTX 680 would do 120 Hz @ 2560 X 1440. It will. It may not do 120fps on every game on every setting, but that wasn't what he asked. He might have meant to ask about 120fps on a single GTX 680, but judging from his questions about monitors and cables and 120Hz, I just took it to mean he was asking about 120Hz refresh rate.

Which it's all a moot point, really, unless he can look past eBay.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

No real reason to go for a 120Hz monitor if you can't push more than 60fps. A single 680 can certainly push more than that but I'd want at least dual cards for 120Hz and 1440p. Just my personal opinion...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Guys, correct me if I'm wrong, but it is probably not likely for the led panel itself to just entirely die is it? Most of the failures for these monitors are likely small components like circuit boards that should be cheap to replace, right? Wondering because while the DOA rate for the Crossover seems pretty low, my main concern is longevity. I'm getting square trade with my crossover so I guess this post itself is kind of moot but I'm curious as to how expensive and difficult it would be to replace a shorted board or something inside the monitor if the display panel itself is fine.


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> No real reason to go for a 120Hz monitor if you can't push more than 60fps. A single 680 can certainly push more than that but I'd want at least dual cards for 120Hz and 1440p. Just my personal opinion...


I disagree. Getting 60 FPS on a 120hz display is smoother than getting 120 fps on a 60hz display. I was surprised by this finding. It only occured to me when I realized I had disabled SLI one time and was running at 50-70fps in BF3 but it was still better than 60hz ever was.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeimTime*
> 
> So I took off the back panel of my catleap to take off the stand for an arm to put on instead. After I was all said and done. I plugged everything in and turned it on. I get a blank screen with the back-lite lit up. At first I thought it was a lose wire so I unscrewed everything again and checked. Nope, everything was in place and nothing was lose as far as i could tell.
> I did note that my pc recognizes that it's there under the display options in the control panel, but the monitor continues to show only a blank screen with the back-lite lit up.
> I'm legitametly scared that I may have caused some irreparable damage. Please help guys. Any advice would be appreciated.
> I really think it's something within the monitor. But I have no idea what the cable would even look like.
> Does anybody have any ideas?


Thats the kind of thing i was afraid of myself, so i decided to go with something that had more of a better warranty.


----------



## NateZ28

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> No real reason to go for a 120Hz monitor if you can't push more than 60fps. A single 680 can certainly push more than that but I'd want at least dual cards for 120Hz and 1440p. Just my personal opinion...


My 670 GTX runs BF3 on Ultra at 1440p @ 120hz at about 80-100 FPS. Adding an extra card would just raise the minimum frame rate. Honestly I never see any lag or stuttering in BF3.


----------



## SLAiNTRAX

Hi guys, I'm looking to buy this monitor and get it shipped to Norway, but I can't find a decent one with HDMI input. Are they really that crap when it comes to HDMI? Or should I just drop HDMI altogether and just get the normal one with DVI only? I would be using HDMI to play XBOX 360 and PS3 games as I currently do on my BenQ.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SLAiNTRAX*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm looking to buy this monitor and get it shipped to Norway, but I can't find a decent one with HDMI input. Are they really that crap when it comes to HDMI? Or should I just drop HDMI altogether and just get the normal one with DVI only? I would be using HDMI to play XBOX 360 and PS3 games as I currently do on my BenQ.


You can always stick your BenQ to the wall for your consoles, and multi-task with your PC hooked up to the new Catleap/Crossover/whichever brand you go with







The monitors that have multiple outputs (DVI, VGA, HDMI) are "known" to have some input lag, which is why many opt in for the single DVI output models. They DO have some with multiple outputs. I personally chose to go with Crossover as they seem to have a better build quality than the rest and the lowest failure rate from what I've researched.


----------



## SLAiNTRAX

So which monitor is the best to get? I'm looking for one that can last me 5 years just like my BenQ. Could you name a few so I could check ebay for prices with shipping?


----------



## mgmtm3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WeimTime*
> 
> So I took off the back panel of my catleap to take off the stand for an arm to put on instead. After I was all said and done. I plugged everything in and turned it on. I get a blank screen with the back-lite lit up. At first I thought it was a lose wire so I unscrewed everything again and checked. Nope, everything was in place and nothing was lose as far as i could tell.
> I did note that my pc recognizes that it's there under the display options in the control panel, but the monitor continues to show only a blank screen with the back-lite lit up.
> I'm legitametly scared that I may have caused some irreparable damage. Please help guys. Any advice would be appreciated.
> I really think it's something within the monitor. But I have no idea what the cable would even look like.
> Does anybody have any ideas?


My roommate with a Q270 just went though this same issue. He was putting on a different stand and only the backlight would turn on. What you have done is slightly bent or broken one of the pins on this flat short light blue cable (consisting of many small little wires) that connects to the CN1 port on the PCB. The CN1 port is to the left of the revision marking on the PCB (for reference his says D-90 REV1.1) Unfortunately for my roommate his was broken beyond repair but we contacted the ebay seller and they got a quote for a new one. You might be able to bend the wires back if you look close and are veerrryyy careful.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NateZ28*
> 
> My 670 GTX runs BF3 on Ultra at 1440p @ 120hz at about 80-100 FPS. Adding an extra card would just raise the minimum frame rate. Honestly I never see any lag or stuttering in BF3.


Isn't there a dumb hz cap for SLI?


----------



## Crizume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Isn't there a dumb hz cap for SLI?


Yes caps at 100hz. Then again If you install any of Nvidia newest drivers the cap is limited to 83hz no matter the card or if in sli. Only 301.42 or older can supports 120hz.

I still run on the older drivers even though the newer ones have slight improvements.

What I find a "coincidence" is that this pixel clock limitation only came around after a couple members asked on Nvidia forums about removing the SLI limitation







. Instead they limited everything and to way lower clocks. Personally I think its jus Nvidia being Nvidia.


----------



## Cavey00

So, I got my 2703 yesterday from BCC. Not bad, colors are great. Makes my old Dell Ultrasharp 20" look like crap of course. I have very few complaints about the monitor but I can live with them, especially because I stuck in right before the price jump. Yes it has BLB on the corners that is only noticeable in a dark room with a black screen. Not sure if this is caused by the bezel or the tempered glass. For the life of me I cannot find a dead or stuck pixel on this thing. That is a huge plus! However there is some bleeding on the right hand side about 3/4 across and a bit over half way up. I haven't seen this posted anywhere yet and would like your opinion on it. Here's are some pics:



Yeah, that dark room for the BLB didn't turn out so well. Sorry.




The blue one is the only one I can't see the spot on.



I might have overdone it with the colors there but I wasn't sure how the weird fingertip size bright spot would come across on the forum. The last two are of it sitting on my desk next to my Dell 20". By the way the Dell looks super yellow now compared to the Catleap. I'm using the default color profile listed in the OP under color correction and it looks great! Now I need to figure out how to adjust the Dell so it's at least close. For now, my only complaint is the light spot. I, nor my wife, think it's worth sending back though and there's a squaretrade warranty on it should it get worse.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

I think that spot would drive me crazy tbh...


----------



## Bo0GeRs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> well it's only for gaming that i would want a 120 hz (is difference big between 60 vs 120 hz?)
> So only place i could buy a 120 hz at the moment is @ 120hz.net ? the ones that are on sale with ebay can't be overclocked to 120 hz?
> If i buy a 120 hz screen will there be a cable included (dvi dual link) Is this the same cable that you have when you connect your 680 gtx to a tn panel screen ? or is this a special cable?
> Where can you buy this special cable ?
> sorry for all those questions but i want to be well informed when purchasing monitor
> Also why isn't there yet a 120 hz 2560x1440 screen out there ?
> Native without overclocking
> greets
> Mathieu


Sorry if I misread the question. So I will try to be specific and answer both possibilities.

Is a single GTX 680 capable of reaching 120hz?
The answer is yes. The Kepler series cards(ie. GeForce 600 series) have a pixel clock limit of 537mhz+ which allows you to overclock a 2B extreme to 120hz+. As to whether you would actually get 120hz depends on whether you can get stable timings (ie. no guarantee you can hit 120hz). All older nVidia cards have a pixel clock limit of 400mhz which limits them to 102hz.
As to SLi, well that is now up in the air. Allegedly (wink Hyper) you can now hit 120hz+ in SLi with nVidia cards. The exact method is only known to one person at the moment(you know who you are).









Is a single GTX 680 able of reaching 120 fps at 120hz?
The answer is no. My EVGA 680 FTW 4GB can only hit 80-100 fps on BF3 on my Catleap 2B extreme at 120hz.
However once I go to someone's house and beat the secret out of them, I hope to SLi 2 EVGA 680 FTW 4GB and have 120 fps on my Catleap 2B extreme at 120hz in time for Armored Killed









As to the cable, make sure it is a 24AWG cable. This is not the same cable that comes with the monitor. Most people buy one from Monoprice.

As to the Catleaps which "claim" to be able to be overclocked on eBay. They are multi-inputs and do not display true 120hz due to frame skipping. The only Catleaps which can be overclocked are the 2B extremes which are DVI input only.

As to where you can get a 27" 2560x1440 120hz capable monitor? In the interest of fairness there are actually 2 places you can get such a monitor. One is available now and the other on pre-order. But can't tell you where.

Hope this helps,

Cheer,

Bo0GeRs


----------



## compgeek89

Hi guys, I would like to know if this Yamasaki monitor will work with Nvidia GeForce GT 545 graphic card.

My pc is Lenovo K430 -31092SU. intel i7, 16.0 GB RAM, 2.0 TB Hard Drive.

Please let me know, thanks!


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> I think that spot would drive me crazy tbh...


Just don't look for it...


----------



## iARDAs

I just had a horrid experience OCing my yamakasi which is 2C

I almost lost the darn monitor. Scared for a while.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> So, I got my 2703 yesterday from BCC. Not bad, colors are great. Makes my old Dell Ultrasharp 20" look like crap of course. I have very few complaints about the monitor but I can live with them, especially because I stuck in right before the price jump. Yes it has BLB on the corners that is only noticeable in a dark room with a black screen. Not sure if this is caused by the bezel or the tempered glass. For the life of me I cannot find a dead or stuck pixel on this thing. That is a huge plus! However there is some bleeding on the right hand side about 3/4 across and a bit over half way up. I haven't seen this posted anywhere yet and would like your opinion on it. Here's are some pics:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that dark room for the BLB didn't turn out so well. Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blue one is the only one I can't see the spot on.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I might have overdone it with the colors there but I wasn't sure how the weird fingertip size bright spot would come across on the forum. The last two are of it sitting on my desk next to my Dell 20". By the way the Dell looks super yellow now compared to the Catleap. I'm using the default color profile listed in the OP under color correction and it looks great! Now I need to figure out how to adjust the Dell so it's at least close. For now, my only complaint is the light spot. I, nor my wife, think it's worth sending back though and there's a squaretrade warranty on it should it get worse.


Have you tried massaging and rubbing the spot with a damp cloth? That could take care of it. With the screen off, put a little bit of pressure in that spot (just about the amount of pressure you put tape on something with) and rub in small circles, then turn on the screen after a few seconds of doing that (while still holding a little pressure on it). When you let go if you see any improvement you can repeat and maybe you'll get rid of it entirely.


----------



## Cavey00

Stealth, it's the glass covered version though. I'm not sure if I can really get any pressure through without breaking it. I guess I could try with light pressure.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Stealth, it's the glass covered version though. I'm not sure if I can really get any pressure through without breaking it. I guess I could try with light pressure.


Ouch, that sucks. Yea I've definitely chosen to stray from any of these monitors that have the glass.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

The glass looks bauss though! Wouldn't have gotten the non-glass Shimians...


----------



## Cavey00

Yeah, I'm kinda hoping it will go away with use but I'm not holding my breath. At least it's not noticable while anything besides a solid color is in the area. I didn't notice it at all while gaming on it. Photoshop I will have to be careful with.


----------



## Degree

Anyone know an adapter or something so I can use my Xbox 360 on the monitor?


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone know an adapter or something so I can use my Xbox 360 on the monitor?


Not sure if this will work on that specific monitor but I've used it before for connecting my PC to my TV

http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346950464&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi

http://www.amazon.com/Eforcity-HDMI-F-DVI-M-Adaptor-Contacts/dp/B000E8X5Z0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346950525&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+female+to+dvi


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Not sure if this will work on that specific monitor but I've used it before for connecting my PC to my TV
> http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-HDMI-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B001TH7T2U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1346950464&sr=8-1&keywords=hdmi+to+dvi
> http://www.amazon.com/Eforcity-HDMI-F-DVI-M-Adaptor-Contacts/dp/B000E8X5Z0/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346950525&sr=1-1&keywords=hdmi+female+to+dvi


Alright thanks! I'll look at it when I come home


----------



## mehhz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mehhz*
> 
> Hi I just got my two Yamakasi however one of them is faulty =/
> anyone have any idea how to fix this?
> http://i.imgur.com/XTbVI.jpg
> I've tried the cables from the other catleap that work but it still shows the same picture.


after a lot of hassle with dcsamsungmall about replacing the monitor i decided **** it lets open the baby up and see what we can find. so I did and I re-seated all the cables going to the panel and plugged it in and after this it worked yay..


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Yeah, I'm kinda hoping it will go away with use but I'm not holding my breath. At least it's not noticable while anything besides a solid color is in the area. I didn't notice it at all while gaming on it. Photoshop I will have to be careful with.


Greensum sent me non-glass version. Might as well profit from it and try to get rid of the pixels.


----------



## lizardking88mph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> So, I got my 2703 yesterday from BCC. Not bad, colors are great. Makes my old Dell Ultrasharp 20" look like crap of course. I have very few complaints about the monitor but I can live with them, especially because I stuck in right before the price jump. Yes it has BLB on the corners that is only noticeable in a dark room with a black screen. Not sure if this is caused by the bezel or the tempered glass. For the life of me I cannot find a dead or stuck pixel on this thing. That is a huge plus! However there is some bleeding on the right hand side about 3/4 across and a bit over half way up. I haven't seen this posted anywhere yet and would like your opinion on it. Here's are some pics:
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that dark room for the BLB didn't turn out so well. Sorry.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The blue one is the only one I can't see the spot on.
> 
> 
> I might have overdone it with the colors there but I wasn't sure how the weird fingertip size bright spot would come across on the forum. The last two are of it sitting on my desk next to my Dell 20". By the way the Dell looks super yellow now compared to the Catleap. I'm using the default color profile listed in the OP under color correction and it looks great! Now I need to figure out how to adjust the Dell so it's at least close. For now, my only complaint is the light spot. I, nor my wife, think it's worth sending back though and there's a squaretrade warranty on it should it get worse.


Hey, remember me? I got a 2703 as well that had a scratch just on the tempered glass(on the inside glass)!! I finally got some good responses from BCC and the dude offered me $100.00 off!! So I got this monitor for $200.00. That eyesore just got a whole lot smaller. I can live with the 2.5" vertical scratch on the far lower right side. It's only noticeable on lighter solid colors, but I'm all happy now and no dead pixels. He really made things right with me. Seems to be a great company. I'll recommend them.


----------



## BoredErica

I want to marry BCC.







Still sulking over Greensum giving me the wrong monitor and two dead pixels at center.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lizardking88mph*
> 
> Hey, remember me? I got a 2703 as well that had a scratch just on the tempered glass(on the inside glass)!! I finally got some good responses from BCC and the dude offered me $100.00 off!! So I got this monitor for $200.00. Now that eyesore just go very small. I can live with the 2.5" vertical scratch on the far lower right side. It's only noticeable on lighter solid colors, but I'm all happy now and no dead pixels. He really made things right with me. Seems to be a great company. I'll recommend them.


I never doubted he was a good seller. His communication was stellar, and he was very appologetic for anything that went wrong. Seemed to be striving to make things right if they did. I'm glad to hear that.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> I never doubted he was a good seller. His communication was stellar, and he was very appologetic for anything that went wrong. Seemed to be striving to make things right if they did. I'm glad to hear that.


Chumlee?

If not... u should go into there Pawn shop and tell them next time there computers go down to come here lol.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Chumlee?
> If not... u should go into there Pawn shop and tell them next time there computers go down to come here lol.


Ha! Nope, I'm about half of Chum's weight. I've never met them but they take care of locals. There's normally this huge line going out the door full of tourists wanting to see the tv stars. Local ID gets you in with no line. This town is full of celebrities that I run into all the time. You get used to it and just treat them like normal people because off camera, that's really all they are. Same with exotice sports cars. A dime a dozen here, I ran out of drool for them many years ago. Now I would love to live in a small town with those things called trees and plants. I think they grow in this stuff called dirt.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Ha! Nope, I'm about half of Chum's weight. I've never met them but they take care of locals. There's normally this huge line going out the door full of tourists wanting to see the tv stars. Local ID gets you in with no line. This town is full of celebrities that I run into all the time. You get used to it and just treat them like normal people because off camera, that's really all they are. Same with exotice sports cars. A dime a dozen here, I ran out of drool for them many years ago. Now I would love to live in a small town with those things called trees and plants. I think they grow in this stuff called dirt.


Meh i live in the woods... With trees and planets comes lots and lots of bugs...


----------



## Stealth Pyros

So who in this club has had one of these monitors (regardless of which: Yamakasi, Crossover, Shimian, etc.) the longest? I'd like to find someone that has had one for a year or so with no problems, if these have even existed for that long.


----------



## hodgempls

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> So who in this club has had one of these monitors (regardless of which: Yamakasi, Crossover, Shimian, etc.) the longest? I'd like to find someone that has had one for a year or so with no problems, if these have even existed for that long.


I have had my catleap q270 for a few weeks and so far it has been great. But, like you, I am concerned over the long term. Good thing I have a square trade warranty. If my q270 goes, I think I will move over to one of the US distributors for another.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> So who in this club has had one of these monitors (regardless of which: Yamakasi, Crossover, Shimian, etc.) the longest? I'd like to find someone that has had one for a year or so with no problems, if these have even existed for that long.


Had my Yamakasi since June, still 100% perfect


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> So who in this club has had one of these monitors (regardless of which: Yamakasi, Crossover, Shimian, etc.) the longest? I'd like to find someone that has had one for a year or so with no problems, if these have even existed for that long.


First one late January and OC models since Feb and I TRASH them on purpose to see if I can break them (for obvious reasons). None have folded under the Scribby method.


----------



## IcedEarth

Had my Crossover for 3 hours. Still running strong!


----------



## eternal7trance

All the other brands are fails. I only say this because it's the Catleap club and they need to go to their own clubs.









I've had mine running fine since the beginning of this year.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

My Crossover gets delivered Tuesday, which happens to be my day off work (took it off for my birthday which is Monday and for Armored Kill







). Can't wait. Sorry to derail with all my talk about the other brands; all their clubs should just be merged


----------



## Hokies83

Catleap is the worst Value of all of them now... You can get a Cross over for the same price as a Catleap now lol...

You can get a U2711 for 100$ more then a Perfect Pixel catleap...









Wonder whos idea it was to mark all of them up to 550$ = 600$ and think they were gonna sell them at that price


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Catleap is the worst Value of all of them now... You can get a Cross over for the same price as a Catleap now lol...
> You can get a U2711 for 100$ more then a Perfect Pixel catleap...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder whos idea it was to mark all of them up to 550$ = 600$ and think they were gonna sell them at that price


It's because the Yamakasi is the biggest seller. Also, the perfect pixel has always been a scam anyways. So no need to buy those.


----------



## Onlinepokerguy

Ok i been lurking around for about two months now; And i am ready to purchase a monitor. So now i need to know who to buy from and where to purchase. The monitor will be used for online poker and web surfing. Anyone familiar with online poker knows you run like 10-20 tables at once; With frame rates and such not being much of an issue. Just looking to get the 27" version to add more tables and great grafics. I am going with Nvidia 9800GT???


----------



## Cavey00

Hmm. That 9800 might barely push one of these but I guess you aren't too concerned about anything graphically intense doing what you are doing. I would imagine most of the motion processing goes on the server end. Should be ok. Personally I had great luck with Big Cloth Craft. Ebay is your only vendor for immediate sale, the screens are all the same panel AFAIK and it comes down to bezel design, speakers, and glass options.


----------



## Onlinepokerguy

Well what would you recommend for a good dvi video card. I am a tad interested in optimal resolution!!!!

Thanks for your reply!!!!!


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Onlinepokerguy*
> 
> Well what would you recommend for a good dvi video card. I am a tad interested in optimal resolution!!!!
> Thanks for your reply!!!!!


Honestly I would browse the OP in the section where it has members of this exclusive club







There is a column where people have put what card they are using so that's a good start. Speaking of that, I need to fill out that form...


----------



## swingking03

I am very interested in getting this monitor but am running an HD5770. I have read the previous posts that indicate that it should work with some minor BIOS issues. My main questions are:
1. Has anyone been able to push 1560x1440 with the 5770?
2. If it cant push it with decent fps, does the monitor still look great at a lower resolution? Or should I just get a cheaper monitor to run at lower resolution?
3. Is the monitor mountable?

Thanks


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

1. Not happening IMO
2. Will look like any other monitor at lower resolution
3. Yes but its a PITA with the Catleap


----------



## Cavey00

Funny, I was just about to answer that guy's exact same post in the Achieva forum. I've got a HD6770 in my HTPC on a 42" 1080p television and it barely acceptable for performance on that. I wouldn't want it powering my Catleap.


----------



## eternal7trance

This is not a monitor that you use with a budget card unless you don't plan on gaming.


----------



## swingking03

Thanks for the replies.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> This is not a monitor that you use with a budget card unless you don't plan on gaming.


What Radeon card would you say is the bare minimum for this monitor? I may decide to upgrade that too, or at least in the not-so-distant future.

Thanks.


----------



## plum

For gaming at 1440p? At least a 7950. but really, it depends on the game too. If you mostly play Valve games (L4D2, Dota 2, TF2, etc) and RTS games like SC, Civ, etc... CPU tends to be more important, so with a mid range GPU you can easily get away with it, just gotta lower down the settings.


----------



## Majorhi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swingking03*
> 
> Thanks for the replies.
> What Radeon card would you say is the bare minimum for this monitor? I may decide to upgrade that too, or at least in the not-so-distant future.
> Thanks.


Bare minimum I wouldn't know but a good mid grade would be a 6870. Playing Darksiders 2 currently. 60-90 FPS. It didn't like crossfire so I went back to running just one card. Hope that helps.


----------



## swingking03

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> For gaming at 1440p?.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> This is not a monitor that you use with a budget card unless you don't plan on gaming.


This raises another question for me. If I can't run it at 1440, what if I used it at a lower resolution, say 1920x1080. I may be mistaken, but it seems cheaper than a lot of other 27" monitors that run at lower resolution. Then I have the ability to upgrade in the future. Any thoughts?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *swingking03*
> 
> This raises another question for me. If I can't run it at 1440, what if I used it at a lower resolution, say 1920x1080. I may be mistaken, but it seems cheaper than a lot of other 27" monitors that run at lower resolution. Then I have the ability to upgrade in the future. Any thoughts?


Basically, yeah. Run at lower resolution. That's what I do, loving it right now.


----------



## Mattbag

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Basically, yeah. Run at lower resolution. That's what I do, loving it right now.


I'm doin the same, for some games and running 1440p for others. I've noticed that BF3 on ultra at 1080p runs as good as bf3 on medium with 1440p. Can't wait to get a card with more memory so I can up the eye candy at my new rez!


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mattbag*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Basically, yeah. Run at lower resolution. That's what I do, loving it right now.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doin the same, for some games and running 1440p for others. I've noticed that BF3 on ultra at 1080p runs as good as bf3 on medium with 1440p. Can't wait to get a card with more memory so I can up the eye candy at my new rez!
Click to expand...

Ugh man, I hope my 2 570s can take 1440p on ultra.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Ugh man, I hope my 2 570s can take 1440p on ultra.


Nope.. Vram will getcha... Bf3 on Ultra uses 1700 = 1900mb Vram.

Sell those things and grab a 4gb 670.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Ugh man, I hope my 2 570s can take 1440p on ultra.
> 
> 
> 
> Nope.. Vram will getcha... Bf3 on Ultra uses 1700 = 1900mb Vram.
> 
> Sell those things and grab a 4gb 670.
Click to expand...

I play on all ultra now without a problem at 1080p, it does _not_ use 1700-1900 VRAM. It's really just an extra 640x360 pixels, so hopefully the impact won't be that great.

Mmmm came across a post on overclock3d with people reporting usage. I think I'll be mostly fine
Quote:


> Ultra - 16xAF, 2560x1600, (SLI GTX480 1.5G), 1369MB+
> 
> Ultra - 16xAF, 8120x1600, (SLI GTX480 1.5G), 1531MB+


----------



## HyperMatrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I play on all ultra now without a problem at 1080p, it does _not_ use 1700-1900 VRAM... It's really just an extra 640x360 pixels, so hopefully the impact won't be that great.


You've got that all wrong...640x360 = 230k more pixels. 1440p has about 1,600k more pixels compared to 1080p. That's roughly 78% more pixels. So if you're using 1000mb vram at 1080p, for example, you'll be up to 1800mb at 1440p. On average mine uses 1400-1700MB, and that's just with 2x MSAA. 4x MSAA would max it out.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I play on all ultra now without a problem at 1080p, it does _not_ use 1700-1900 VRAM. It's really just an extra 640x360 pixels, so hopefully the impact won't be that great.
> Mmmm came across a post on overclock3d with people reporting usage. I think I'll be mostly fine


I have a Catleap i play Bf3 on Ultra it uses 1700 = 1900mb Vram

You May be fine with no AA tho.


----------



## BizzareRide

How does the 120hz affect the response time. 6ms seems kind of high... I have a 5ms monitor and a 2ms monitor and the difference is noticeable for me. I'm looking for "snappiness"


----------



## Hokies83

I have a 120hz 2ms Acer panel and the Catleap it is not huge.

I have found haveing both gives the best of borh words.. Fps games on the 120hz everything else on the 2560x1440 ips eye candy.


----------



## swingking03

Found this on HIS's website in regards to the DVI connection of my 5770 card (HIS H577FK1GD)

"The long flat pin on a DVI-I connector is wider than the same pin on a DVI-D connector, so it is not possible to connect a male DVI-I to a female DVI-D by removing the 4 analog pins. It is possible, however, to connect a male DVI-D cable to a female DVI-I connector. Many flat panel LCD monitors have only the DVI-D connection so that a DVI-D male to DVI-D male cable will suffice when connecting the monitor to a computer's DVI-I female connector."

So it seems that as long as your card has dual link, it will support either DVI-D or DVI-I connections??


----------



## Hokies83

Yes Dvi-I is Dvi-D which extra goodies my Catleap his hooked up to my DvI-I port on my 680.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HyperMatrix*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I play on all ultra now without a problem at 1080p, it does _not_ use 1700-1900 VRAM... It's really just an extra 640x360 pixels, so hopefully the impact won't be that great.
> 
> 
> 
> You've got that all wrong...640x360 = 230k more pixels. 1440p has about 1,600k more pixels compared to 1080p. That's roughly 78% more pixels. So if you're using 1000mb vram at 1080p, for example, you'll be up to 1800mb at 1440p. On average mine uses 1400-1700MB, and that's just with 2x MSAA. 4x MSAA would max it out.
Click to expand...

I see, I was definitely off on the pixel difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I play on all ultra now without a problem at 1080p, it does _not_ use 1700-1900 VRAM. It's really just an extra 640x360 pixels, so hopefully the impact won't be that great.
> Mmmm came across a post on overclock3d with people reporting usage. I think I'll be mostly fine
> 
> 
> 
> I have a Catleap i play Bf3 on Ultra it uses 1700 = 1900mb Vram
> 
> You May be fine with no AA tho.
Click to expand...

I use the FXAA injector, which has practically 0 impact performance, and at 1440p I shouldn't need AA at all (but will still be using the FXAA injector with its color tweak).

Are you on just a single 680? If you're on just 1 running ultra then I should be fine with 2 570s.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I see, I was definitely off on the pixel difference.
> I use the FXAA injector, which has practically 0 impact performance, and at 1440p I shouldn't need AA at all (but will still be using the FXAA injector with its color tweak).
> Are you on just a single 680? If you're on just 1 running ultra then I should be fine with 2 570s.


Im running 2 680s with pretty sweet overclocks pci-e 3.0 16x16 Gpu useage is not concern i can get over 200fps.. but Vram use is quite high.

But with FXAA u should be fine.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

I've thought about grabbing a 3rd 570 because I found one on OCN for $150 which is amazing, but I don't think my PSU will take it and I don't think the gains would be that great.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> I've thought about grabbing a 3rd 570 because I found one on OCN for $150 which is amazing, but I don't think my PSU will take it and I don't think the gains would be that great.


Id just wait for the Gtx 780 it is gonna be a Monster

GPU Base Clock: ~1100 MHz

GPU Boost Clock: ~1150 MHz

Shaders Clock: ~1100 MHz

Memory Clock: ~1550 MHz

Effective Memory Clock: ~6200 MHz

MEMORY

Memory Size: 3072 MB

Memory Type: GDDR5

Memory Bus Type: 384-bit

Memory Bandwidth: ~ 297 GB/sec

2880 Cuda cores.


----------



## Crizume

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hokies83*
> 
> Id just wait for the Gtx 780 it is gonna be a Monster
> GPU Base Clock: ~1100 MHz
> GPU Boost Clock: ~1150 MHz
> Shaders Clock: ~1100 MHz
> Memory Clock: ~1550 MHz
> Effective Memory Clock: ~6200 MHz
> MEMORY
> Memory Size: 3072 MB
> Memory Type: GDDR5
> Memory Bus Type: 384-bit
> Memory Bandwidth: ~ 297 GB/sec
> 2880 Cuda cores.


Taken from? I love when I see numbers like this thrown out.


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crizume*
> 
> Taken from? I love when I see numbers like this thrown out.


Hmm @ thrown out? People have had a good idea of what Big Kepler would be for months









http://videocardz.com/nvidia/geforce-700/geforce-gtx-780

Maybe this is nothing new we wouldn't already speculate about, but SweClockers's source says that NVIDIA is preparing the GK110 GeForce for non-professional market as we speak.

According to the SweClockers's source, NVIDIA will launch it a new flagship GeForce model with Kepler GK110 GPU - the GTX 780. Also the site is claiming that the release might take place even sooner than VR-Zone reported this week. The new GTX 780 would arrive later this year, or more likely, during the first months of 2013 - so this could be March too.

While the Tesla K20 GK110 had 7.1 billion transistors, it is not guaranteed that the GeForce card would feature the same specificaiton. The GK110 is both difficult and expensive to manufacture.

As a reminder the GK110 has 15 Streaming Multiprocessors with 2880 CUDA cores. The Tesla's GPU was linked to a 384-bit interface. So this might be changed in multiple ways. Most probably NVIDIA will reduce the number of processing units or manipulate the Raster Engine layout. I'm just hoping they will leave the 384-bit interface, so it would be easier to compare GTX 780 to Radeon HD 8970 - powered by updated Graphics Core Next architecture.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Almost a million views scribby..







.

So does anyone have a stand for three of these and how do you like it? I know one person does.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

pretty sweet that!


----------



## Lintrix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> pretty sweet that!


Amazing thread! I actually just registered here to post in this thread.

I just joined the club not too long ago. Purchased two from green-sum back when they were $300, but one of them had a very bad color bleed and I returned it. I purchased a second one and its on its way! Can't wait to run dual monitor with this!


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Dual screen with these LG panels is so amazing!


----------



## IcedEarth

I don't have the desk space for a dual monitor set-up.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> I don't have the desk space for a dual monitor set-up.


Wall mounts my friend, wall mounts.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Wall mounts my friend, wall mounts.


Unfortunately it's not that simple in my flat.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> Unfortunately it's not that simple in my flat.


I think the answer is get a new flat


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Desk mount monitor arms are nice too but expensive...


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I think the answer is get a new flat


But I love money too much.









Aha, moving out would be a waste of money when I'm buying a house next summer.

This poor soul will have to put up with just one monitor for now.


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

House > monitor


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> This poor soul will have to put up with just one monitor for now.


I know that feel bro.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I think the answer is get a new flat


I feel ya man! I just moved to Germany and my flat is small as well! Hoping to move into a more larger one, once work gets up and running!


----------



## Joe Blob

Hi,

Been browsing this huge thread and now i'm ready to order my Crossover. Before i do i have a question though. I'm looking at this Ebay listing which sells a Crossover for $339.90. This is cheaper than other sellers and like $100 cheaper than Catleaps. Is this something to worry about that?

Thanks!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe Blob*
> 
> Hi,
> Been browsing this huge thread and now i'm ready to order my Crossover. Before i do i have a question though. I'm looking at this Ebay listing which sells a Crossover for $339.90. This is cheaper than other sellers and like $100 cheaper than Catleaps. Is this something to worry about that?
> Thanks!


Catleaps are more popular than Crossovers so they started raising the prices to take advantage.


----------



## Joe Blob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Catleaps are more popular than Crossovers so they started raising the prices to take advantage.


So that's the only reason? And Catleaps are more popular because there is more support for them, if i read that right?


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe Blob*
> 
> So that's the only reason? And Catleaps are more popular because there is more support for them, if i read that right?


There all the Same panel... Somebody would have to be nuts to pay 550$ - 600 for a catleap... And not pay 700$ for a U2711.. or 280$ - 350$ for a Shimian

As the shimian and Catleap are the exact Same panel..

There is so many other Options out there.. THERE ALL THE SAME PANELS.. Crossovers Tempest shimian IMON FSM etc.. all priced well below the Catleaps are now.


----------



## Joe Blob

Cool, thanks a lot! Ordering it now <--- happy


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe Blob*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Been browsing this huge thread and now i'm ready to order my Crossover. Before i do i have a question though. I'm looking at this Ebay listing which sells a Crossover for $339.90. This is cheaper than other sellers and like $100 cheaper than Catleaps. Is this something to worry about that?
> 
> Thanks!


Just chiming in so you know Hokies is not the only one thinking that way.

I went with a Crossover for a few reasons.

-It has a nicer, cleaner design in my opinion.

-It has a much better build quality all around. The monitor itself and the stand seem to be much better quality than the other brands (owners of those brands themselves say their stands are wobbly and whatnot)

-After doing my research, the Crossovers >seem< to have the lowest failure/defect rate across all the eBay sellers. I checked out all their recent feedback as well as popular opinion across several forums online.

On top of all of those factors, when I ordered mine at $325, it was barely any more/no more expensive than the other brands. Mine gets here tomorrow by the way







Will be posting photos once I have it set up and I'll compare it to my 1200p T240HD if possible. Of course I'll be posting those photos in the Crossover Club thread as this is the Yamakasi thread.


----------



## Joe Blob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Just chiming in so you know Hokies is not the only one thinking that way.
> I went with a Crossover for a few reasons.
> -It has a nicer, cleaner design in my opinion.
> -It has a much better build quality all around. The monitor itself and the stand seem to be much better quality than the other brands (owners of those brands themselves say their stands are wobbly and whatnot)
> -After doing my research, the Crossovers >seem< to have the lowest failure/defect rate across all the eBay sellers. I checked out all their recent feedback as well as popular opinion across several forums online.
> On top of all of those factors, when I ordered mine at $325, it was barely any more/no more expensive than the other brands. Mine gets here tomorrow by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be posting photos once I have it set up and I'll compare it to my 1200p T240HD if possible. Of course I'll be posting those photos in the Crossover Club thread as this is the Yamakasi thread.


Thank you


----------



## Hokies83

I have owned a u2711..

I now own a Acer 3D 120hz 27inch Panel and a Catleap... I will soon own one of Overlords OC panels.. will have all 3 going and compare them all lol.


----------



## plum

~700$ for the U2711 is such a scam, I never liked the AG finish and its response time. And I'm not the only, the founder/reviewer at Guru3D has switched out his U2711 for a Catleap at his labs just because it offers better visual quality.


----------



## Hokies83

I liked my U2711 better then the catleap.. But Selling for 600$ buying a Catleap for 260$ was worth the trade off.


----------



## Joe Blob

Does anybody know a wholesale link for these monitors?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I was going to buy two more Catleaps over a month ago for $600.23¢ Now its $1000 for two. BS!







Maybe it will drop in price by December. Maybe...


----------



## Hokies83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I was going to buy two more Catleaps over a month ago for $600.23¢ Now its $1000 for two. BS!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe it will drop in price by December. Maybe...


Only if there not selling any.


----------



## Joe Blob

Why are there posts being deleted? I didn't link anything? Are there certain things one is not allowed to talk about that i should know of?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Joe Blob*
> 
> Why are there posts being deleted? I didn't link anything? Are there certain things one is not allowed to talk about that i should know of?


Management has to sort out a few things before we can let discussions on a certain vendor continue. Quote trails on this matter also have to be cleaned to prevent it coming up again.

Also, I noticed in one such post the claim that we don't allow eBay links... this only goes for the Marketplace. It confuses me no end why people think eBay links aren't allowed site-wide.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I was told by a mod to NOT allow ebay links in this thread back in February and this thread has been pruned more than once to EXCLUDE ALL EBAY LINKS. So that kind of gives us all an impression that ebay links are not allowed here. Am I mis-reading your post? If links are allowed here, please let us all know so the community can benefit from that information.

Thanks!


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Joe Blob*
> 
> Why are there posts being deleted? I didn't link anything? Are there certain things one is not allowed to talk about that i should know of?
> 
> 
> 
> Management has to sort out a few things before we can let discussions on a certain vendor continue. Quote trails on this matter also have to be cleaned to prevent it coming up again.
> 
> Also, I noticed in one such post the claim that we don't allow eBay links... this only goes for the Marketplace. It confuses me no end why people think eBay links aren't allowed site-wide.
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> I was told by a mod to NOT allow ebay links in this thread back in February and this thread has been pruned more than once to EXCLUDE ALL EBAY LINKS. So that kind of gives us all an impression that ebay links are not allowed here. Am I mis-reading your post? If links are allowed here, please let us all know so the community can benefit from that information.
> 
> Thanks!


I vouch as a witness. I've seen many posts providing nothing but an eBay link to a monitor we have questions about being deleted. I also fail to see why it's ok to speak about Yamakasi/all these other brands yet we have one particular brand that we are forbidden to speak of. Just boggles me because this one specific brand is the single brand coming from a US distributor. Not going to point fingers, but OCN needs to tighten down on the trigger happy moderators. (It's not you I'm referring to Chimp).


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Also, I noticed in one such post the claim that we don't allow eBay links... this only goes for the Marketplace. It confuses me no end why people think eBay links aren't allowed site-wide.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarmaKiller*
> 
> Remember guys, Ebay links are not allowed.


What does this mean, then?


----------



## Cavey00

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Cavey00

Sorry about above post. Baby stole my phone...

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## spo0linup

Seriously, why are these threads filling up with some kind of pre-pubescent girl drama?


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> What does this mean, then?


Dunno. He probably thought the same thing when he started moderating.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

What are we all complaining about? The mods on OCN are pretty laxed compared to other sites I frequent. Though Head-Fi.org has the best mods I've ever spoken to. Then again I've never seen flaming on that website either. lol Also I have to say the mods on this site allow users to have and voice opinions about companies without the fear of reprimand or post editing which is nice for a sponsored site.


----------



## Chewy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What are we all complaining about? The mods on OCN are pretty laxed compared to other sites I frequent. Though Head-Fi.org has the best mods I've ever spoken to. Then again I've never seen flaming on that website either. lol Also I have to say the mods on this site allow users to have and voice opinions about companies without the fear of reprimand or post editing which is nice for a sponsored site.


I dont agree with this....

But without derailing this thread any further i think we should get back on topic


----------



## Mhill2029

Has anyone attempted a de-bezelling with these screens?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*
> 
> Has anyone attempted a de-bezelling with these screens?


Search for Vega's posts. He is a Jedi.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Search for Vega's posts. He is a Jedi.


He debezelled Samsung S23A750D's, not Catleaps. Oh nvm.... he did, i completely forgot thanks.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Not so - he was going to do 5 Cats.


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Not so - he was going to do 5 Cats.


Yup, he was going to when the 7990 released, which seems to be.................................taking forever for some reason. I believe Vega is giving up on all this hardware finery since he has a small Vega on the way. I shall miss his outlandish builds.....


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Yeah, because yours isn't outlandish enough!


----------



## Crezzlin

Finaly started to de-bezel, only 2 more togo :s


----------



## Crezzlin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mhill2029*
> 
> Has anyone attempted a de-bezelling with these screens?


just done one and going to do the other 2 tonihgt, if you need pics i will take some this time.. Thanks!


----------



## Mhill2029

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> just done one and going to do the other 2 tonihgt, if you need pics i will take some this time.. Thanks!


That would be awesome to see, preferably in landscape


----------



## lizardking88mph

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> just done one and going to do the other 2 tonihgt, if you need pics i will take some this time.. Thanks!


Oh yeah! Upload some pics!


----------



## 7RED7

Hello, I've been browsing these forums as well as Tom's Hardware and Reddit's Buildapc to update my knowledge base for a couple pc's I need to build soon. I started running across a lot of discussions related to these Catleap monitors and have heard a lot of good things. I would be interested to know any tips you are willing to share for purchasing one of these monitors without getting scammed or picking up a lemon.

After reading a bit I see that forum policy prevents linking to ebay, so I will avoid that and just ask general questions.

I don't use ebay or similar sites very often as I usually just pick things up through newegg or find them at local stores (except for getting my Machinery's Handbook through Amazon today, must be the week for new things). It seems like there are a lot of different sellers for this monitor. How do do I find out who is the best to deal with when purchasing a catleap monitor? I noticed recent posts in this thread lamenting the price, but most of what I'm seeing on ebay is in the $350-$400 range; are these legitimate options? Did the price just spike for a little while, or is it still higher and people are scamming with auctions at a lower price?

I was considering waiting until the holiday sales to get some deals on parts, but I figured if I did that then I would be more likely to deal with packages carried by temporary holiday hires that are more likely to break things and cost time and money instead of just losing money by missing a sale. Are these monitors likely to drop enough in price at the same time to be worth it? How common is it for monitors to be damaged during shipping during "off seasons" vs "holiday runamok crazy time"?

Thanks in advance, and it's nice to not be lurking anymore


----------



## Majin SSJ Eric

Actually Chunky Chimp (a mod here) recently posted that Ebay links are OK outside of the Marketplace...


----------



## Chunky_Chimp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Majin SSJ Eric*
> 
> Actually Chunky Chimp (a mod here) recently posted that Ebay links are OK outside of the Marketplace...


Correct. Management clarified this for the other moderators and it's essentially the same thing I said. A simple case of past miscommunication, I suppose. As long as you aren't advertising your own sales, it's fine outside the MP.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Correct. Management clarified this for the other moderators and it's essentially the same thing I said. A simple case of past miscommunication, I suppose. As long as you aren't advertising your own sales, it's fine outside the MP.


Thanks, that makes threads like these so much easier to explain.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chunky_Chimp*
> 
> Correct. Management clarified this for the other moderators and it's essentially the same thing I said. A simple case of past miscommunication, I suppose. As long as you aren't advertising your own sales, it's fine outside the MP.


Thanks for the clarification and passing it along your ranks - OP updated.

Now if I could only update the tuning, color calibration, and OC sections (which are woefully out of date) . . . .


----------



## 7RED7

Okay, so most of the ones I'm seeing there are similar to this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-ONLY-USA-SALE-/150808035022?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231cdbfece

Applying my previous questions to this link, is this a legit supplier, reasonable cost and terms, and likely to be a quality build?


----------



## BoredErica

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e6fcfb462#ht_19526wt_1163

Save some cash.


----------



## Weagle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e6fcfb462#ht_19526wt_1163
> Save some cash.


Look at dead pixel policy on that one. 15 dead pixels. I saw a listing from another seller that had a 20 pixel policy. The manufacturer return policies must have been tightened.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

The returns haven't tightened up - that is grade A- panels for you. The Korean eBay sellers are just ensuring they DON'T get returns for panels that are well within specs.


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Anybody know where I can get a Catleap with "Perfect Pixel" insurance and Backlight testing? I had a link bookmarked but it seems to have vanished.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get a Catleap with "Perfect Pixel" insurance and Backlight testing? I had a link bookmarked but it seems to have vanished.


Perfect pixel has always been a scam to get more money. Buying one marked as such guarantees nothing.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Anybody know where I can get a Catleap with "Perfect Pixel" insurance and Backlight testing? I had a link bookmarked but it seems to have vanished.


The odds are in the Crossover's favour at the moment for receiving a pixel perfect version.

However, people seem to be throwing their money down the drain aiming for this 'perfection' in my opinion.

I have two Crossover monitors and one has two dead pixels, the other has one dead pixel. Honestly, it's damn near impossible to even find them. I wouldn't ever pay an extra $100 for them to disappear considering just how hard they are to detect.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Perfect pixel has always been a scam to get more money. Buying one marked as such guarantees nothing.


This.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I would agree with the pixel perfect issue when dealing with grade A- panels. The higher the grade the more sense it means to get a PP display.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Damn gas prices and cost of text books! Stealing my catleap money. Lol


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> The odds are in the Crossover's favour at the moment for receiving a pixel perfect version.
> However, people seem to be throwing their money down the drain aiming for this 'perfection' in my opinion.
> I have two Crossover monitors and one has two dead pixels, the other has one dead pixel. Honestly, it's damn near impossible to even find them. I wouldn't ever pay an extra $100 for them to disappear considering just how hard they are to detect.
> This.


Can you recommend a place for me to purchase a catleap from? Im really looking to get one.


----------



## Celinna

any news about a new color profile, i have a new panel from august (F or something) and i think the color profiles from the 1 page arent the best for these new panels


----------



## londonfire93

Is there anywhere i can buy replacement parts for one of my monitors such as circuit boards or ribbon cables?


----------



## 7RED7

I'm still reading through a lot of this. What do you mean by color profiles? Are there some different versions I should be looking for or avoiding?

@Scribby, By "A-" panels, do you mean that they are somewhat lower quality than all the "A" panels that you would pay more for or that they are higher quality and the sellers are just covering their asses?

Also, I see the comment about #dead pixels. What is a ballpark that I should be looking for in order to avoid something that may have noticeable problems?

Thanks


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weagle*
> 
> Look at dead pixel policy on that one. 15 dead pixels. I saw a listing from another seller that had a 20 pixel policy. The manufacturer return policies must have been tightened.


I suppose so, but BCC is as reputable as it gets. I have not really heard of that many dead pixels, I think it's far likelier to get horrible backlight bleed. But I guess I just like taking chances?


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

so am I correct in assuming that nobody knows a reputable dealer from which I can purchase one of these fine monitors from.


----------



## Berksmb

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Just chiming in so you know Hokies is not the only one thinking that way.
> I went with a Crossover for a few reasons.
> -It has a nicer, cleaner design in my opinion.
> -It has a much better build quality all around. The monitor itself and the stand seem to be much better quality than the other brands (owners of those brands themselves say their stands are wobbly and whatnot)
> -After doing my research, the Crossovers >seem< to have the lowest failure/defect rate across all the eBay sellers. I checked out all their recent feedback as well as popular opinion across several forums online.
> On top of all of those factors, when I ordered mine at $325, it was barely any more/no more expensive than the other brands. Mine gets here tomorrow by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be posting photos once I have it set up and I'll compare it to my 1200p T240HD if possible. Of course I'll be posting those photos in the Crossover Club thread as this is the Yamakasi thread.


Which one exactly did you get? Also how do you like it so far?


----------



## Absolute1l

Finally received my replacement PCB from Green-Sum. (I screwed the first one up when removing the stand) Worked great for a couple days and now my monitor is once again broken. The power brick turns off and on over and over again and my screen is black and flickers on once every few seconds. I know its a power brick issue because the little green power light on the power brick goes off every time it happens. It has gotten so bad I cannot use the monitor at all. Anyone know of a replacement power brick for these things that isn't super expensive? I've already dropped $400 on this monitor even though the original cost was $309.


----------



## kazmuzik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Absolute1l*
> 
> ... Anyone know of a replacement power brick for these things that isn't super expensive? I've already dropped $400 on this monitor even though the original cost was $309.


I bought Yamakasi Precision 2703 which power adapter was 190 to 220V.
Even though there was a white paper saying "110V is acceptable" on it,
I decided to buy another one at U.S. eEbay shop.
It is 100 to 240V for Effinet EFL-2202W which costs US$23.19.
It was delivered just today, and it works with Yamakasi Precision 2703.
Also, I have another one, and it also works with Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSI.


----------



## Absolute1l

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazmuzik*
> 
> I bought Yamakasi Precision 2703 which power adapter was 190 to 220V.
> Even though there was a white paper saying "110V is acceptable" on it,
> I decided to buy another one at U.S. eEbay shop.
> It is 100 to 240V for Effinet EFL-2202W which costs US$23.19.
> It was delivered just today, and it works with Yamakasi Precision 2703.
> Also, I have another one, and it also works with Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSI.


Do they all use the same plug that goes into the monitor?


----------



## Absolute1l

Also can you give me a link to the one you bought? I am sure that if it works with the precision it will work with the Catleap.


----------



## kazmuzik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Absolute1l*
> 
> Do they all use the same plug that goes into the monitor?


They are all Kycon 4-pin DC power plugs:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DC_connector#Snap_and_lock_DC_power_connectors

You can search at ebay.com with:
24V 5A AC Adapter Charger For Effinet EFL-2202W FY2405000 LCD Monitor(4 pin Tip)

It comes with U.S. power cord, but the hole to insert its power cord is special shape.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kazmuzik*
> 
> I bought Yamakasi Precision 2703 which power adapter was 190 to 220V.
> Even though there was a white paper saying "110V is acceptable" on it,
> I decided to buy another one at U.S. eEbay shop.
> It is 100 to 240V for Effinet EFL-2202W which costs US$23.19.
> It was delivered just today, and it works with Yamakasi Precision 2703.
> Also, I have another one, and it also works with Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSI.


All of those have different amperages


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> Can you recommend a place for me to purchase a catleap from? Im really looking to get one.


Sorry about the late response.

There are several Ebay sellers (at the moment they can only be sourced from Ebay.)

BigClothCraft (I bought my two monitors from this guy)
Redcap
Green Sum
Accessories Whole
Dream Seller

All with a good reputation.

EDIT:

The Shimian's are cheaper right now and I don't think there's much of a difference between them to be honest. The Shimian and the Catleap both have semi-flimsy stands and both pretty much offer the same specifications. I would go with which ever is cheaper if I were you. The initial attraction to the Catleap was its ability to overclock, however since the 2B's are no longer in circulation there's nothing setting it apart to be honest.

The only one which is worth more is the Crossover due to the quality of the stand, and the stand has more functions. I only bought my Crossover because at the time the it was the same price as the Catleap, otherwise I would have gone with a Catleap/Shimian.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Absolute1l*
> 
> Also can you give me a link to the one you bought? I am sure that if it works with the precision it will work with the Catleap.


I'll send you a PM with a link to the one I got, that'll save the mods the trouble of having to delete my post.


----------



## eternal7trance

You can post ebay links in here.


----------



## IcedEarth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I'll send you a PM with a link to the one I got, that'll save the mods the trouble of having to delete my post.


It has been verified by the mods that Ebay links can be posted outside of the Marketplace.


----------



## Stealth Pyros

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Berksmb*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Stealth Pyros*
> 
> Just chiming in so you know Hokies is not the only one thinking that way.
> I went with a Crossover for a few reasons.
> -It has a nicer, cleaner design in my opinion.
> -It has a much better build quality all around. The monitor itself and the stand seem to be much better quality than the other brands (owners of those brands themselves say their stands are wobbly and whatnot)
> -After doing my research, the Crossovers >seem< to have the lowest failure/defect rate across all the eBay sellers. I checked out all their recent feedback as well as popular opinion across several forums online.
> On top of all of those factors, when I ordered mine at $325, it was barely any more/no more expensive than the other brands. Mine gets here tomorrow by the way
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Will be posting photos once I have it set up and I'll compare it to my 1200p T240HD if possible. Of course I'll be posting those photos in the Crossover Club thread as this is the Yamakasi thread.
> 
> 
> 
> Which one exactly did you get? Also how do you like it so far?
Click to expand...

I love it. I got the 27Q non-pivot, non-perfect. It has just 1 single dead (or stuck, it seems to be blue) pixel slightly to the right of center. Backlight is "perfect" by my standards. http://www.overclock.net/t/1232496/crossover-27q-led-led-p-27m-led-2720mdp-gold-led-monitor-club/2600_20#post_18146467


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IcedEarth*
> 
> It has been verified by the mods that Ebay links can be posted outside of the Marketplace.


I sent the guy a PM, so all's well.


----------



## quakermaas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> All of those have different amperages


They all output 24v DC @ 5.0A


----------



## kazmuzik

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> All of those have different amperages


DC output is all the same, 24V 5A 120W.

AC input is different:
1) Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSI
NANJING FRONTEK FPS0120-05A
AC 230V 50/60Hz 1.2A
2) Yamakasi Precision 2703
LOADUS RQ-1204A
AC 190〜220V 50/60Hz 3.0A
AC 110V IS ACCEPTABLE
3) Replacement AC Adapter for Effinet LCD Monitor EFL-2202W
FY2405000
AC 100〜240V 50/60Hz 1.5A


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

I have used the same brick with about 4 different Korean variants with no issues.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *quakermaas*
> 
> They all output 24v DC @ 5.0A


Ahh wow, blonde moment here. for some reason I assumed it was output instead of input by looking at it quickly this morning, my bad!


----------



## yousefk

With the Catleap Q270, how hot does the brick get for you guys after a few hours? I just got it, and it's an amazing monitor, but after ~1 hour of using it, the brick is pretty hot in the hand. I can still hold and squeeze it, but it'll be uncomfortable. I know it's fine at this temperature but I hope it doesn't keep increasing.

I'll probably get a step up transformer if this brick keeps getting hotter.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yousefk*
> 
> With the Catleap Q270, how hot does the brick get for you guys after a few hours? I just got it, and it's an amazing monitor, but after ~1 hour of using it, the brick is pretty hot in the hand. I can still hold and squeeze it, but it'll be uncomfortable. I know it's fine at this temperature but I hope it doesn't keep increasing.
> I'll probably get a step up transformer if this brick keeps getting hotter.


I have mine on 24/7 and its cooler than some of my laptop bricks,
Id say get a transformer most likely will increase longevity and cool it down.


----------



## yousefk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I have mine on 24/7 and its cooler than some of my laptop bricks,
> Id say get a transformer most likely will increase longevity and cool it down.


I saw that there is a power brick that works with these monitors and is designed for 110V and up. I think I'll buy that and see how it goes.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yousefk*
> 
> With the Catleap Q270, how hot does the brick get for you guys after a few hours? I just got it, and it's an amazing monitor, but after ~1 hour of using it, the brick is pretty hot in the hand. I can still hold and squeeze it, but it'll be uncomfortable. I know it's fine at this temperature but I hope it doesn't keep increasing.
> I'll probably get a step up transformer if this brick keeps getting hotter.


I have a 2703 and I'm in the same boat. Makes a little high pitched noise too if I hold my ear close to it. Should I be concerned? I have a squaretrade warranty I guess if it takes out the monitor. If the brick dies there is always ebay for the replacement.


----------



## yousefk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> I have a 2703 and I'm in the same boat. Makes a little high pitched noise too if I hold my ear close to it. Should I be concerned? I have a squaretrade warranty I guess if it takes out the monitor. If the brick dies there is always ebay for the replacement.


If you keep it at temperatures that burn your hand while holding/squeezing it, it's too hot and will probably die after a few weeks. If you notice that it gets to that temperature, I'd recommend either getting a step up transformer or the "EFL-2202W" power brick from eBay. It's specs are the same as this one (even the connector) except that it's designed for 110V+, so it probably won't overheat.

I'm using the stock brick and the temperature for me has stayed just below that threshold. I've had it on for a few hours. If it stays this way, I doubt the brick or monitor will die anytime soon, but I ordered the 110V+ adapter just to be safe.


----------



## foilfence

Been reading through these last few posts.

So just to confirm, I've got my 2703 plugged straight to a 220v outlet right now. I gave it a touch and it does seem a bit hot.

It's much safer to plug it into a transformer or a voltage regulator at 110v?


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *foilfence*
> 
> Been reading through these last few posts.
> So just to confirm, I've got my 2703 plugged straight to a 220v outlet right now. I gave it a touch and it does seem a bit hot.
> It's much safer to plug it into a transformer or a voltage regulator at 110v
> ?


Interesting. What country is that in? I thought maybe mine was getting hot because it WASN'T plugged into 220 (brick rated 190-220 or something, with a sticker on it that says 110v ok).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yousefk*
> 
> If you keep it at temperatures that burn your hand while holding/squeezing it, it's too hot and will probably die after a few weeks. If you notice that it gets to that temperature, I'd recommend either getting a step up transformer or the "EFL-2202W" power brick from eBay. It's specs are the same as this one (even the connector) except that it's designed for 110V+, so it probably won't overheat.
> I'm using the stock brick and the temperature for me has stayed just below that threshold. I've had it on for a few hours. If it stays this way, I doubt the brick or monitor will die anytime soon, but I ordered the 110V+ adapter just to be safe.


It doesn't burn me so much as just gets pretty damn warm after a few hours. I'm gonna have to grab some of the other convertors around the house to compare. I know I've had transformers get that warm before but I can't remember what they were powering.


----------



## mgmtm3

I have a Yamakasi 2703, I am noticing that the backlight will dim quickly and very slightly a couple of times in a row. It only happens about once a day for maybe 30 seconds. It is pretty slight and I only really notice it if I am browsing on a white background like reddit. Do you think this could be a bad power brick or maybe a bad wall plug?


----------



## RB Snake

The backlight bleed in the top-middle of my Catleap is getting worse (still only noticeable on black screen though). Such a shame they're more expensive now, would have got another one. There's no fix for backlight bleed right?


----------



## meursault

One of my 2 monitors (received just over 45 days ago) developed a severe left/right side brightness problem. Am I best off trying to get bigclothcraft to accept it back for warranty service or should I try the known fix to this problem on my own? Is the known fix applicable if the problem develops instantly rather than always existed (monitor used to be perfect, developed severe left/right brightness problem instantly)

I don't have a lot of experience with soldering parts but do have an undergraduate minor in electrical engineering (major computer engineering) so I could probably figure it out. The part I have issues with is how do you replace a resistor on a pcb?

edit: is replacing the PCB altogether viable?


----------



## Delphiwizard

I see the Q270 SE is back to a 'normal' price with green-sum, good to see.


----------



## Tegiri Nenashi

Almost in the same boat: I had very minor brightness discrepancy in my Q270 -- noticeable only on pure white background. This is not necessarily the known PCB defect, so I didn't venture repairing it. Now that my PCB is dead (for my fault), I'm looking for replacement as well. Given that the panel absorbs the bulk of the cost I assume that 50$ would be fair price for PSB, although some message on this board indicated $75.

P.S. Substitute Achieva Shimian seems to be little better, although still is not perfectly uniform (or maybe I'm imagining ghosts).


----------



## Schindlerian

I received my white model Q270 and it is absolutely perfect. No dead pixels which really shocked me. I was a bit nervous as I had bought it 2 weeks ago or so from BCC and he was really responsive _until_ I bought the monitor. After 2 days and no shipping I contacted him and didn't get a response for another 3 when he explained that there were delays due to lack of supply. But then he shipped it the next day and somehow it got here in under 24 hours. All in all, as I nervously set it up expecting dead or stuck pixels there's not 1 and it looks fantastic with my white Switch 810 and other fancy white desk-objects.


----------



## yousefk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Schindlerian*
> 
> I received my white model Q270 and it is absolutely perfect. No dead pixels which really shocked me. I was a bit nervous as I had bought it 2 weeks ago or so from BCC and he was really responsive _until_ I bought the monitor. After 2 days and no shipping I contacted him and didn't get a response for another 3 when he explained that there were delays due to lack of supply. But then he shipped it the next day and somehow it got here in under 24 hours. All in all, as I nervously set it up expecting dead or stuck pixels there's not 1 and it looks fantastic with my white Switch 810 and other fancy white desk-objects.


Cool to hear that you had no dead pixels. I was expecting a few also. It came with 0 dead pixels. After trying to search for any type of flaw, I could literally find 0 flaws. The backlight is perfect, no dead pixels, no glass under screen, or anything like that.

I'm seriously impressed at how black the blacks are, how white the whites are, and how bright this monitor gets. IPS is impressive on my TF700 but it's even more impressive on a 27" monitor.


----------



## Schindlerian

I've definitely got to agree with you, the blacks/whites are really solid. When compared to my old 24"Dell, which was a pretty decent monitor, it's a world of difference in shade quality.


----------



## BoredErica

My power supply gets warm, but never gets hot. I can always touch it. I don't think I need to buy a step-down.


----------



## Cavey00

I'm gonna roll mine till something happens and prompts me to replace it. It whistles a bit after a few hours of use and gets warm, but no warmer than my laptop brick.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## niciuffo

My 2703 arrived today! No dead pixels as far as I can tell, 4 quick photos I just took: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5p2cgebmbojgnf3/poRd7reTbb


----------



## yousefk

I just received the new power brick which accepts 110V, 1.5 Amp input. From my understanding, ebay links are allowed, so it's this one (EFL-2202W).

After plugging it in, it works pretty perfectly.

Picture of the brick itself:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















The specs of the brick can be found in the OP. The brick looks similar to most laptop bricks and has the same green light indicator as the old one.

Picture of the monitor connector:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!















The connector fits perfectly, but as you can see, I taped the cable to the back of the monitor. The reason being that the wire is a lot thicker and heavier, which puts a lot of pressure on the port which can lead to long-term damage. Taping it like I did relieves that pressure, relocating it to the backplate of the monitor.

I'll try to measure the temperature and report back in a few hours. I can then hopefully compare it to the stock power brick.

EDIT: 4 hours later - It's warm, but not hot. At this time the original brick would have been extremely hot. I recommend this brick to anyone with heating issues.


----------



## Crezzlin

For the guys that asked, managed to debezel my monitors now, will do a build log etc this week still finishing the room


----------



## Crezzlin

One with and without bezel


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> One with and without bezel


Looks SO much nicer without. Really want to do that with my Catleap, but how did you mount the PCB and I/O panel? And how'd you go about making vesa mounts?


----------



## MarvinDessica

Curious question. Can the 1080p monitors be overclocked? If not I'll just grab a 60hz IPS from Newegg.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> For the guys that asked, managed to debezel my monitors now, will do a build log etc this week still finishing the room


Damn that is what I wanted to do how did you mount them without a bezel?


----------



## JayXMonsta

still need to order a HDMI Catleap and a SE Catleap waiting till they get back in stock though hopefully the price drops I love my one catleap I just need 2 more.


----------



## thr33niL

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> For the guys that asked, managed to debezel my monitors now, will do a build log etc this week still finishing the room


When I win the lottery.. I will build your exact setup. Until then... wah wah.


----------



## Lintrix

Wow that looks great!!!

Since you have three of them, do you by chance notice a difference in brightness between them? I am currently running two of Q270s and I notice that one that is much more brighter than the other. I test this by dragging a window with mostly white between the two monitors. One of them will be much whiter than the other.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> For the guys that asked, managed to debezel my monitors now, will do a build log etc this week still finishing the room


love me some 7680x1440, it's been a real treat so far for me. hope you enjoy


----------



## RB Snake

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> One with and without bezel


Nice, I'm assuming you taped the edges of the panel? It looks a lot better than I thought it would. Might grab another 1 soon.


----------



## kingkio

how do you clean the screen without getting huge streaks and smudges?

struggling to get in clear after trying to clean it.


----------



## Descadent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingkio*
> 
> how do you clean the screen without getting huge streaks and smudges?
> struggling to get in clear after trying to clean it.


microfiber cloth.


----------



## yousefk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Descadent*
> 
> microfiber cloth.


To add to this, if you want to use alcohol or eyeglass cleaning fluid with the microfiber cloth and not leave streaks, wait a few hours for the monitor to cool down after turning it off. The heat prematurely evaporates it which leaves those streaks you see.


----------



## plum

microfiber cloth and water works just fine for me


----------



## markale

hi

Just got my Q271 and what a surprise after my old Hanns-g 28"! No dead or stuck pixel and great colors.
But i have a little problem. The seller (Green-sum) forgot to mail me an English manual and i not see well well how use the korean OSD. Light or could be backlight/contrast is actually hard for my eyes.

If some can help me about that or give me tips (i use a nvidia gtx 680 306.23 drivers dual-dvi). I try use a profil made with Windows at this time.

Thanks


----------



## RB Snake

Hmm, i just use a dry microfiber cloth, it works perfect for me. I don't use any solvents.


----------



## Deviated Septum

I encounter the same issue, and i have the same concerns, any input on this would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markale*
> 
> hi
> Just got my Q271 and what a surprise after my old Hanns-g 28"! No dead or stuck pixel and great colors.
> But i have a little problem. The seller (Green-sum) forgot to mail me an English manual and i not see well well how use the korean OSD. Light or could be backlight/contrast is actually hard for my eyes.
> If some can help me about that or give me tips (i use a nvidia gtx 680 306.23 drivers dual-dvi). I try use a profil made with Windows at this time.
> Thanks


They don't send manuals with these.

The info you are looking for is in the OP. In the faq pick your monitor version and as you scroll through the many pictures on the site, you'll see the buttons labeled.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RB Snake*
> 
> Hmm, i just use a dry microfiber cloth, it works perfect for me. I don't use any solvents.


Can use water and a paper towel too.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *markale*
> 
> .
> But i have a little problem. The seller (Green-sum) forgot to mail me an English manual and i not see well well how use the korean OSD.


In my case (with the Q270 SE) he sent a english manual after i put the reputation on ebay, i think its on the page somewhere


----------



## CattleCorn

Am I correct in understanding that the monitors being sold on eBay at this time are now stuck at 60hz and only the older models could clock past 60hz?


----------



## mahiv87

Has anyone purchased a monitor from creativepeter dot com. Just wondering if it's legit.


----------



## plum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Can use water and a paper towel too.


uh no that's a very bad idea, it will scratch your screen (once you want to dry it) and/or leave marks

microfiber cloth is a must if you care about your screen, it's also VERY effective compared to everything else i've used, which i shouldn't have in the first place


----------



## 20mchop

Does anyone know if greensum has got in a new batch or monitors? he seemed to go through a dip where there was a lot of DOA's? Doesnt look like BCC has stock and i want to buy mine as soon as possible but dont want trouble with having to send mine back because greensum sent me a DOA?

Thanks


----------



## asuindasun

Just bought my Catleap and god an call/email from Fedex Trade Networks to fill out a FCC form. If anyone else has had something like this can you PM me? I'm unsure of all the stuff they are asking me to fill out... can PM the form as well. Otherwise this little gem is just going to sit in customs it looks like


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

It would be bad if customs finally got wise on these since none of the Korean models (that I am aware of) actually have the proper FCC or CE certs to enter the US or European Union. A few people have been bit by this in the past due to an improper tariff code being applied to the outside of the package or invoice.


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> It would be bad if customs finally got wise on these since none of the Korean models (that I am aware of) actually have the proper FCC or CE certs to enter the US or European Union. A few people have been bit by this in the past due to an improper tariff code being applied to the outside of the package or invoice.


Sounds like the form I was sent, great. It's a commercial invoice form, asks for a FCC ID, Harmonized Tariff Number ect. Ideas?

And what happened to those who did get hit with this before? Just SOL on the monitor?


----------



## Garvani

Email the seller, they sort it at there end.


----------



## asuindasun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Garvani*
> 
> Email the seller, they sort it at there end.


PM'd him on ebay, shall see how this goes. Was hoping to get it friday (and would have if it didn't get stuck!) since I'm getting all my WC upgrades xD at least the monitor is easy to swap out.

Scribby if you have any experience with this or know someone who does can you let me know?


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Well there are two issues, one are they wanting a code or two are they wanting the FCC cert? Or both I suppose. I don't have the tariff code(s) here at home, but can get you one tomorrow if someone doesn't offer one up first.


----------



## Garvani

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asuindasun*
> 
> PM'd him on ebay, shall see how this goes. Was hoping to get it friday (and would have if it didn't get stuck!) since I'm getting all my WC upgrades xD at least the monitor is easy to swap out.


Im a member of the Achieva club (waiting for mine but ill get to that in a bit), quite a few members in there have had the same problem with these forms and the seller has sorted it for them pretty quickly, but sure go ahead and do it yourself if you get the information









Im still waiting for my screen, ordered it friday and as of now its still sitting in Korea at the international airport, a fellow ocn'r ordered one after me and his arrived today.. Im not in the states though im in New Zealand so thats probably something to do with it.. rather annoying though, im hitting refresh on this dang fedex page every 5 minutes hoping for it to change!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plum*
> 
> uh no that's a very bad idea, it will scratch your screen (once you want to dry it) and/or leave marks
> microfiber cloth is a must if you care about your screen, it's also VERY effective compared to everything else i've used, which i shouldn't have in the first place


Not true, I've used it many times on my monitors and it looks just fine. Not sure how hard you are pressing to scratch it, but at that point you're probably almost breaking the screen.


----------



## listen to remix

Would this specific AX6850 work with this monitor? Specs say it has dual link- dvi-i but not dvi-d. Does that matter?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131442


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *listen to remix*
> 
> Would this specific AX6850 work with this monitor? Specs say it has dual link- dvi-i but not dvi-d. Does that matter?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814131442


That is fine - all you care about is that it will do 2560 x 1440 - this one says 2560 x 1600 - so you are golden.


----------



## listen to remix

Thank you. Also, do you guys know how thick this monitor is without the stand?


----------



## lemlem89

Hey buddy. I checked ebay and I think green sum just got a new batch of Q270s but they're calling them Q270 SEI instead of regular "SE." I don't know the difference since i'm a catleap noob but maybe some1 can elaborate?

I went ahead and bought one anyway but an explanation of the difference of a Q270 SE to a Q270 SEI would be good. I'll pm the seller and see if they can get me an explanation.


----------



## lemlem89

Check out my latest post I think green-sum has a new batch of Q270 SEI


----------



## Queesy

I would also like to know the difference between the SE and SEi. I can't find the information on the product page.


----------



## judi924

Just wanted to share my experience. I purchased a "YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE LED 27" 2560X1440 WQHD DVI-D" white color from green-sum on Sept 14, 2012 for $380 w/free shipping. I received the monitor on Sept 20th 2012 (5 business days including date purchased & date received). FYI I live in a small town about 3 hrs away from the nearest large city I was very impressed with shipping. I never paid any import taxes & received a tracking number the day it was shipped DHL. Arrived on my doorstep in original monitor box covered w/two layers of bubble wrap. I was assuming that from the description that all the monitors were tested that they would come in an open-box style but the monitor was brand new with shrink plastic wrap everywhere. If green-sum tested it he did it with all the plastic wrap on. The box did look as though it had been opened but none of the accessories or monitor looked used.
There are no dead pixels which is what I was worrying about when I bought it. The only thing I kind of dislike about it is the stand is made of POS plastic. It feels very cheap. But I guess if it holds the monitor up then what more can I ask for. It swivels 360 degrees on the base so it's super easy to disconnect power/video cables that input from the side & not from the bottom like my Asus VE276Q has. Overall I'm very pleased to have a $380 monitor that would have cost me upwards of $1k for a US equivalent monitor (if one even exists).
FRONT:

There are reflections in the display that look like dust or scratches. The monitor was flawless. this was right after I got done taking off tons of plastic covering it.

BACK:


SCREEN:

Like I said, no dead pixels.

BOX:

Just in case anyone was wondering. Monitor was covered in 2 layers of bubble wrap & shipped in this box. There was no outer box.


----------



## exhibitO

My monitor started having lines on the screen when I start up my machine. It doesn't disappear, however, after I wait until I know I'm windows, if I turn it off and then on, it's fine.

Here's a picture
http://www.imgur.com/mGdVq.jpeg

Bad cable? What do you think?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## yousefk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> My monitor started having lines on the screen when I start up my machine. It doesn't disappear, however, after I wait until I know I'm windows, if I turn it off and then on, it's fine.
> Here's a picture
> http://www.imgur.com/mGdVq.jpeg
> Bad cable? What do you think?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Sounds like a video card problem. Update the drivers and see if it happens.


----------



## exhibitO

Updated to latest drivers. From nvidia website. Now that you say that I do realize it started right around the latest software update.

Anything else I can do?

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## spo0linup

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Queesy*
> 
> I would also like to know the difference between the SE and SEi. I can't find the information on the product page.


They say it right at the top of the description:
The monitors are the SAME thing, with the exception of the pixel policy. SEi allows up to 20 dead pixels, up from 5


----------



## FlyingSolo

Does anyone know if the Yamakasi Catleap Q271 that has a hdmi input work with the intel hd4000


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Yamakasi Catleap Q271 that has a hdmi input work with the intel hd4000


Doesn't work. HD 4000 doesn't support 2560x1440 on HDMI.


----------



## tx-jose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Doesn't work. HD 4000 doesn't support 2560x1440 on HDMI.


i think its the HDMI that doesnt support the 2560X1440....display port should work fine though


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> i think its the HDMI that doesnt support the 2560X1440....display port should work fine though


Certain HDMI implementations do support 2560x1440, but the HD 4000's does not.


----------



## tx-jose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Certain HDMI implementations do support 2560x1440, but the HD 4000's does not.


Pulled from TomsHardware on the HD4000
Quote:


> You can do three digital outputs on a desktop platform (provided a motherboard vendor enables them), but two have to be DisplayPort connections-one at up to 2560x1600 and one at up to 1920x1200. The third screen can be HDMI (up to 1080p), DVI, VGA, or DisplayPort at up to 1920x1200.


Source


----------



## FlyingSolo

Thanks guys for your reply. As long as i can use the intel hd 4000 with the multi catleap or crossover in 1080p for now that will be good.


----------



## Slash8915

I've been contemplating getting one of these for a while. But idk, I'm just worried I'll get a piece of crap, lol.


----------



## Diebold005

Could anyone help me out here?

Just got my new monitor in the mail today. I got the Q270 2B Extreme - Overclock Ed. I'm running an Asus Radeon HD7970 DC2T with the 12.8 drivers.
I try to hook it up to my computer and I get the green flashing light. So I try every combination with the cabling. Use the dvi-d cable I had with an old monitor in both dvi slots and then used the one that came in the box in both slots. Neither worked. I reinstalled my gpu driver and tried again, still no luck.

Any help is appreciated!


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slash8915*
> 
> I've been contemplating getting one of these for a while. But idk, I'm just worried I'll get a piece of crap, lol.


IMHO, you could buy a monitor from a local store BNIB and still have a dud. It happens from time to time and this 50/50 chance shouldn't deter you from possibly getting the best monitor you ever owned.

As a wise man once said: "Nothing ventured, Nothing gained"


----------



## Slash8915

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fateful_Ikkou*
> 
> IMHO, you could buy a monitor from a local store BNIB and still have a dud. It happens from time to time and this 50/50 chance shouldn't deter you from possibly getting the best monitor you ever owned.
> As a wise man once said: "Nothing ventured, Nothing gained"


So it's my understanding that the only difference between the Catleap, Shimian, and the Crossover are the built quality, is that correct? If I buy one of these, I'm going to mount it on the wall instead of set it on my desk. I'd like to find a flat mount. Would all of these be equal for this, or would you recommend one over another? Also, I've seen other brands on ebay selling the same type of monitor. Why are these other brands not discussed?


----------



## loc125

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> My monitor started having lines on the screen when I start up my machine. It doesn't disappear, however, after I wait until I know I'm windows, if I turn it off and then on, it's fine.
> Here's a picture
> http://www.imgur.com/mGdVq.jpeg
> Bad cable? What do you think?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


i had the same issue when i received my monitor, GreenSum Tech told me that the ribbon on the back of the monitor was loose and if it was possible for me to open and check, that should fix the issue, and so it did, when i opened my monitor, the connector was half-way in, and i got the lines all over the screen, when i fixed it, the monitor worked like a charm...absoluty beautiful..try that and let me know if it works....


----------



## Diebold005

Any one had problems with flickering green dots at 60hz and then a lot more around 100hz?


----------



## WeimTime

Hey guys, are the yamakasi monitors from www(dot)creativepeter(dot)com legitimate? The price is good, but since it's not an ebay link I don't know if it is reputable.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slash8915*
> 
> So it's my understanding that the only difference between the Catleap, Shimian, and the Crossover are the built quality, is that correct? If I buy one of these, I'm going to mount it on the wall instead of set it on my desk. I'd like to find a flat mount. Would all of these be equal for this, or would you recommend one over another? Also, I've seen other brands on ebay selling the same type of monitor. Why are these other brands not discussed?


No. Last time I checked (over a month ago), Shimians have slightly higher malfunctioning rate than Catleaps or Crossovers. Crossovers can height adjust and go into portrait mode. Crossover costs the most, Catleaps cost more than cheapest Shimians, etc. Shimians have better stands than Catleaps, but Crossover has the best. (I don't see why people buy Crossovers and replace the stand for another stand...) Oh yeah, Shimians look cooler IMO.


----------



## ronquilent

Just wanted to link this in here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1309558/hdmi-1-3-to-single-link-dvi-catleap-shimian-or-any-korean-qhd-monitors-etc-test


----------



## EliteReplay

i have a question why is the hype with this monitor? it is just because 1440p?








i thought this was 1440p + 120hz... why all the hype?


----------



## iARDAs

1440p with no input lag or whatsoever and is cheaper than other 1440p monitors on the market such as Dell or HP

100 hz can only happen with older models though, which is even another plus.


----------



## BoredErica

There's the hype because it's way cheaper than any other 1440p IPS monitor out there, most costing close to double of this monitor, and in some cases, more than that. IN extreme cases, the Apple Thunderbolt was a whopping 900+, which could have bought three Catleaps at the start.

120hz and 1440p can happen if you go to the right places.


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> There's the hype because it's way cheaper than any other 1440p IPS monitor out there, most costing close to double of this monitor, and in some cases, more than that. IN extreme cases, the Apple Thunderbolt was a whopping 900+, which could have bought three Catleaps at the start.
> 120hz and 1440p can happen if you go to the right places.


i have a question, im interested now that i have read a couple of pages, it seem that this is the best performance / price monitor we can get...







i would like to get this one YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SEi-27-LED-S-IPS
but i see a lot of different models in the same page...

any thoughts?

edit: why that one cost only US $329.90 while i see other from 429 to 500dollars?

also dead pixel policy on the Q270-SEi
- more than 2 dead pixel in central part (5) : faulty
- more than 20 dead pixels in the side area : faulty

what those that means?
that i need a minimum of 20dead pixel to return this Monitor??


----------



## wkstar

The one that you pick is that price 'cause it has One DVI input - No speakers No extra inputs No OSD
You get a working screen - Thats it !

Some ( Many ) people do not like that stand
Take a look at < THIS > Catleap 2703
I have two of these and have no stand or pixel issues

You ask about pixel issues - That is hard to answer
I would say there is a 5% chance of having pixel issues , , Other people may say higher chance
Some people use three different pixel checking websites & a Magnifying Glass looking for a bad pixel
If you are not that picky then these are a great buy and you will be happy

I am using a Nvidia 250 to run both screens -


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> The one that you pick is that price 'cause it has One DVI input - No speakers No extra inputs No OSD
> You get a working screen - Thats it !
> Some ( Many ) people do not like that stand
> Take a look at < THIS > Catleap 2703
> I have two of these and have no stand or pixel issues
> You ask about pixel issues - That is hard to answer
> I would say there is a 5% chance of having pixel issues , , Other people may say higher chance
> Some people use three different pixel checking websites & a Magnifying Glass looking for a bad pixel
> If you are not that picky then these are a great buy and you will be happy
> I am using a Nvidia 250 to run both screens -


thanks, i want one that actually doesn't have tempered glass but one that has OSD, can u help me? How are your guyses experiences with these? I've been reading some posts, but how are they for FPS? BF3? STARCRAFT2?


----------



## wkstar

I bought a Colorvision Spyder 2 awhile back and used that to calibrate the screens
So, I have no need for an OSD

Some people with MUCH better eyes than mine have said in this thread that the Colorvision Spyder 2 colors are off
But everyone that has come in my home and sat at the screens has said they look great ( jealous )
Colorvision Spyder 2 Ebay for under $ 50.oo

The Tempered Glass issue , , I do not know what to say 'Cause they look great to me








My Next thing is to buy a Better Camera


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> thanks, i want one that actually doesn't have tempered glass but one that has OSD, can u help me? How are your guyses experiences with these? I've been reading some posts, but how are they for FPS? BF3? STARCRAFT2?


None of them have OSD.
Tempered glass has pros and cons, but they don't have it by default.

And they are fine for gaming.

TBH, a 5 dead pixel policy feels almost the same as 20 dead pixel policy. Neither are common, but if it helps you sleep better at night...


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> None of them have OSD.
> Tempered glass has pros and cons, but they don't have it by default.
> And they are fine for gaming.
> TBH, a 5 dead pixel policy feels almost the same as 20 dead pixel policy. Neither are common, but if it helps you sleep better at night...


sorry i was confusing OSD with the menu to adjust setting lol









so i can get the cheapest one and it will be the same thing? whats the difference between Q270 and 2703??


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> sorry i was confusing OSD with the menu to adjust setting lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so i can get the cheapest one and it will be the same thing? whats the difference between Q270 and 2703??


2703 has a slightly less crappy, but still bad stand.


----------



## wkstar

I have No problem with the stands on my 2703's
But some People *here* seem to believe that only Samsung & Dell make good stands for their screens

It does Not rotate or swivel or raise up & down
It does Not get me Tea in the morning
It does tilt back and forth

But it does hold the screen still on my desk
Thats all I want - Some People want more

People on this board have made stands into an International Incident worthy of the *UN* getting involved

OSD = On Screen Display


----------



## xbanhxbaox

Got my 2B catleap yesterday and OC'd it to 120hz. Great monitor. No dead/stuck/bright pixels. In love with this thing!


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wkstar*
> 
> I have No problem with the stands on my 2703's
> But some People *here* seem to believe that only Samsung & Dell make good stands for their screens
> It does Not rotate or swivel or raise up & down
> It does Not get me Tea in the morning
> It does tilt back and forth
> But it does hold the screen still on my desk
> Thats all I want - Some People want more
> People on this board have made stands into an International Incident worthy of the *UN* getting involved
> OSD = On Screen Display


so basically the monitor doesnt give u, options to adjust it?


----------



## JayXMonsta

I have my two Catleap SE Monitors and I was gonna buy one Multi one but the price is so high!!








Any idea when it will drop?


----------



## wkstar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> so basically the monitor doesnt give u, options to adjust it?


You adjust the Monitor with the *Nvidia* or *AMD* control panel

Not having an OSD is No Big Deal


----------



## assassinafro

Hi i'm new to this forum and 847 pages is quite a bit to read i'm corrently considering buying a catleap or a achieva and i have two questions about them.
1. Has anyone has any dead pixels when buying a pixel perfect monitor from the ebay sellers for either the catleap or the achieva?
2. Also i know that many/some 2560x1440 displays when running in 1920x1080 look worse than a normal hd tv is this only when using a dvi-d cable or is this not a problem if i get one of the multi version and use a hdmi cable when wanting to view in 1920x1080?
Thanks for your time


----------



## BoredErica

We're constantly repeating the same information over 848 pages









To earlier guy:

A stand that holds the monitor upright. Well yeah, it does that.
Music is just a bunch of sounds. Yeah. But there is good music and bad music.

The stand is OK on the 2703, but some people are willing to pay more for a better stand (some even pay more for looks alone). And no, no adjusting on this stand at all, and there is some wobbling - not that bad, I'd assume an improvement over the older model.

For the guy worrying about adjusting monitor settings: Don't worry, because it can be adjusted, like the other guy said, via graphics card. If you read the first page, you'd know you could set up color profiles.

There is brightness adjustment on the monitor! Use that instead of graphics card control! You need to hold down the right button, wait like 3 seconds though. At first I pushed it once, saw no change, and got mad.

Assassinafro:
1. Don't buy pixel perfect. Read the fine print. It does not account for all malfunctioning pixels, just dead pixels. Even if they did, there is still backlight bleed to worry about. The chance of dead pixels is low, and having it near the center of your vision so that you might actually see it is even lower.

2. I believe DVI-D would be the same result.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> We're constantly repeating the same information over 848 pages
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


They should lock the thread and watch as people frantically run around confused trying to use the search function.


----------



## assassinafro

Thanks for replying does the same apply for green sums zero defect option?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *assassinafro*
> 
> Thanks for replying does the same apply for green sums zero defect option?


All of the perfect pixel things are a scam. You have the same chances of getting a bad monitor either way.


----------



## FlyingSolo

Guys i really need some advice hear. Am thinking of buying the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 or Crossover 27Q LED-P Pivot Not sure which one is better tho. Was gonna go for the one that has hdmi but heard they have lag so that put me off. The thing is am a new pc gamer and i have got nearly all my parts like the i5 3570k,asrock z77e itx, bitfenix prodigy,samsung green 8gb and will be getting the samsung 128GB 830,corsair ax750 now the problem is am waiting for the new ati and nvidia cards to come out. Rather then spending £400 now. So is there any way i can hook up the hd4000 like a dvi to hdmi cable or something like that. So i can use the intel hd4000 for the time being. If that's a no then whats the cheapest card that will give me a res of 1440p for now. And i can see the bios with it


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrKay*
> 
> Guys i really need some advice hear. Am thinking of buying the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 or Crossover 27Q LED-P Pivot Not sure which one is better tho. Was gonna go for the one that has hdmi but heard they have lag so that put me off. The thing is am a new pc gamer and i have got nearly all my parts like the i5 3570k,asrock z77e itx, bitfenix prodigy,samsung green 8gb and will be getting the samsung 128GB 830,corsair ax750 now the problem is am waiting for the new ati and nvidia cards to come out. Rather then spending £400 now. So is there any way i can hook up the hd4000 like a dvi to hdmi cable or something like that. So i can use the intel hd4000 for the time being. If that's a no then whats the cheapest card that will give me a res of 1440p for now. And i can see the bios with it


You can't run one using hd4000
But I did have success today running my catleap on a nVidia 8400gs, can be had for ~£10


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> You can't run one using hd4000
> But I did have success today running my catleap on a nVidia 8400gs, can be had for ~£10


is it with the latest driver or something. So this will work then with the nvidia 8400gs on 1440p right. which model do i need to get thanks


----------



## Cavey00

Not sure if you will see the bios on it either. Forgive me for not reading through countless previous posts, but my bios does not show up on my 2703. It only shows up on my secondary monitor. I'm not really sure how the bios decides what monitor it uses for that though...I'm stop posting useless posts now


----------



## FlyingSolo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Not sure if you will see the bios on it either. Forgive me for not reading through countless previous posts, but my bios does not show up on my 2703. It only shows up on my secondary monitor. I'm not really sure how the bios decides what monitor it uses for that though...I'm stop posting useless posts now


Thanks i'll go with one of them cheap cards now. That they have listed on there selling page that should hopefully let me see the bios


----------



## BoredErica

Like I said like 1-2 pages ago:

Catleaps: Worst stand out of 3, cheaper
Crossover: Best build quality, best stand, height, tilt, portrait mode adjustable,, more expensive


----------



## zerocraft

Do the non-glass catleaps have a matte screen or is everything just glossy ?


----------



## BoredErica

All is glossy. Except from Davi, which is the only Korean brand with matte. And IMO, using a matte with an IPS kills the point.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Like I said like 1-2 pages ago:
> Catleaps: Worst stand out of 3, cheaper
> Crossover: Best build quality, best stand, height, tilt, portrait mode adjustable,, more expensive


Catleaps use to be much cheaper and a good deal not anymore though.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> For the guys that asked, managed to debezel my monitors now, will do a build log etc this week still finishing the room


need more photos







also what type of stand(s)


----------



## zerocraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Catleaps use to be much cheaper and a good deal not anymore though.


Yeah I'm seeing an achieva from dreamseller around 50$ cheaper, is there any advantage catleap has on the achieva at all ?


----------



## cryfreedom66

Hey guys...wow this thread is huge!

I'm thinking about "joining the club" maybe someone can answer my questions for me?

I apologize, as i'm sure these have been covered within the thread but, its just too big to go through and I also dont know if some of the earlier info is still relevant...

Is this monitor compatible with nvidia 3d vision?

Are there different versions of this monitor? If so, what (in your opinion) is the best version for gaming?

Where is the best place to order this from (link please and thank you







)?

Thank you all! 1440p 27" IPS for under 500???? Seems too good to be true!


----------



## dcelander

All the instructions described in the thread content about how to OC a catleap monitor with INVIDIA graphics card are spot-on, except for one little snag: I could not upload the catleap monitor driver into my windows 7 OS using the instructions provided. Not that I am saying this is the fault of the author of the thread. My Windows 7 prompt in response to attempting this upload/update was to curtly tell me that Windows already knew the best driver to use for the monitor and denied the request. My video card is a ASUS GT640-2GD3, if that helps. Any thoughts about how to do this in a Windows 7 OS environment without that "error" message?


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryfreedom66*
> 
> Hey guys...wow this thread is huge!
> I'm thinking about "joining the club" maybe someone can answer my questions for me?
> I apologize, as i'm sure these have been covered within the thread but, its just too big to go through and I also dont know if some of the earlier info is still relevant...
> Is this monitor compatible with nvidia 3d vision?
> Are there different versions of this monitor? If so, what (in your opinion) is the best version for gaming?
> Where is the best place to order this from (link please and thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> Thank you all! 1440p 27" IPS for under 500???? Seems too good to be true!


No, they will not be compatible with 3d vision because the majority of them cannot overclock to the required refresh rate. There is an up and coming seller that states his is capable of that speed but if I mention it here, it will get deleted.
There are different versions of the monitor but they all use the same screen. It's a matter of stand/glass/ bezel that changes.
Best place to get is ebay, from which seller is a matter of opinion. I personally had great luck with BigClothCraft. He communicated quite a bit with me and did what he could when his stock ran out to compensate. I don't want to link where I bought it from because I'm on a work pc, but search ebay for Catleap 2703. The first one on the list is who I bought from and you can browse his store from there.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcelander*
> 
> All the instructions described in the thread content about how to OC a catleap monitor with INVIDIA graphics card are spot-on, except for one little snag: I could not upload the catleap monitor driver into my windows 7 OS using the instructions provided. Not that I am saying this is the fault of the author of the thread. My Windows 7 prompt in response to attempting this upload/update was to curtly tell me that Windows already knew the best driver to use for the monitor and denied the request. My video card is a ASUS GT640-2GD3, if that helps. Any thoughts about how to do this in a Windows 7 OS environment without that "error" message?


Did DSEO run, and did you get the Test Mode watermark? The Catleap driver isn't signed, so you have to let DSEO do its thing or windows won't like it.

Do you have a 2B Catleap? If you don't, you're not going to get much from all that work except Windows will recognize your monitor by name. You won't be able to OC except to maybe 67Hz on a regular Catleap.


----------



## cryfreedom66

The only problem with bigclothcraft is he doesnt offer perfect pixel catleaps...I wouldnt want to get stuck with 5 dead pixels and not be able to return...


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryfreedom66*
> 
> The only problem with bigclothcraft is he doesnt offer perfect pixel catleaps...I wouldnt want to get stuck with 5 dead pixels and not be able to return...


Um the fact they don't have any catleaps in stock is probably why they cant offer perfect pixel


----------



## assassinafro

Hi thanks for the responses previously ive now read a large amount of the thread and now know alot more about these monitors. And i've narrowed it down to two monitors and just wanted to check that they were okay before purchase.
Im looking for the cheapest monitor that i can get but also the best chance of getting a good one.
The first has no negative responses about the monitor and therefore im guessing is the more reliable of the two on the whole has anyone had any major issues with this company.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-LITE-27-LG-S-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-16-9-6ms-Monitor-/120911803193?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c26e7b339#ht_14580wt_1159
The second is slightly cheaper but has more negative responses but i know that this is one of the favoured sellers on this forum.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-Lite-27-LED-Quad-HD-DVI-2560x1440-16-9-6ms-PC-Monitor-/110833856200?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19ce366ec8#ht_13291wt_1159

Also im in the UK has anyone bought these monitors to be shipped to the UK and had any problems with customs, do these companies bypass with labelling as a £30 package or do they put the actual price on and you have to pay the customs taxes.

Thanks for all of the help


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *assassinafro*
> 
> Also im in the UK has anyone bought these monitors to be shipped to the UK and had any problems with customs, do these companies bypass with labelling as a £30 package or do they put the actual price on and you have to pay the customs taxes.
> Thanks for all of the help


Now they can label your package as being £30 but if it gets damaged in transit you can only claim back £30.
I did have some luck and declared mine full price and it got through no questions asked or extra fees, but at most its £30-£40.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Yeah I'm seeing an achieva from dreamseller around 50$ cheaper, is there any advantage catleap has on the achieva at all ?


Achieva based on some polls taken a while back (yeah, not extremely scientific, but there is more credibility in numbers) had a slightly higher rate of getting a 'bad monitor'. (Could be over 5 dead pixels, bad power brick, etc). Achieva has a better stand and looks better IMO.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryfreedom66*
> 
> Is this monitor compatible with nvidia 3d vision?
> Are there different versions of this monitor? If so, what (in your opinion) is the best version for gaming?
> Where is the best place to order this from (link please and thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )?
> Thank you all! 1440p 27" IPS for under 500???? Seems too good to be true!


1) No, you need a 120 hz PCB. You'd have to buy from the right places.
2) Yes. A non-multi version without speakers. Tempered glass is neither good or bad. Easier cleaning, looks better, but chance of having dust trapped under the glass.
3) Ebay.
4) Yeah.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dcelander*
> 
> All the instructions described in the thread content about how to OC a catleap monitor with INVIDIA graphics card are spot-on, except for one little snag: I could not upload the catleap monitor driver into my windows 7 OS using the instructions provided. Not that I am saying this is the fault of the author of the thread. My Windows 7 prompt in response to attempting this upload/update was to curtly tell me that Windows already knew the best driver to use for the monitor and denied the request. My video card is a ASUS GT640-2GD3, if that helps. Any thoughts about how to do this in a Windows 7 OS environment without that "error" message?


Catleap monitor driver? You mean color profiles? I did it on Windows 7 also, 32 bit, no problems. I don't recall the monitor needing drivers.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *assassinafro*
> 
> Also im in the UK has anyone bought these monitors to be shipped to the UK and had any problems with customs, do these companies bypass with labelling as a £30 package or do they put the actual price on and you have to pay the customs taxes.
> Thanks for all of the help


I don't live in UK, so I don't know. For reference for the USA people, you will probably pay $0 in duties.
I like BCC. Seems nice and fair. Greensum did the job, but gave me the wrong monitor version... mine came without tempered glass. Not a HUGE problem. but annoying. It's not like he shipped me a toaster or something lol.


----------



## zerocraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Achieva based on some polls taken a while back (yeah, not extremely scientific, but there is more credibility in numbers) had a slightly higher rate of getting a 'bad monitor'. (Could be over 5 dead pixels, bad power brick, etc). Achieva has a better stand and looks better IMO.


Is this the poll? http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270

2-3% isnt much haha, statistically would be well within margin of error for that poll size. I will probably grab the achieva then from greensum for $300. Looks like the dream seller listing for $275 does not come with a 120v power brick :/


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Is this the poll? http://www.overclock.net/t/1215866/reviewed-400-2560x1440-ips-no-ag-90hz-achieva-shimian-qh270-and-catleap-q270
> 2-3% isnt much haha, statistically would be well within margin of error for that poll size. I will probably grab the achieva then from greensum for $300. Looks like the dream seller listing for $275 does not come with a 120v power brick :/


You can't just go off of percentage like that... it's a multiple choice poll, picking you got a Catleap affects the percentage of the Shimian.

172 + 10 + 33 = 215 monitors, 172 out of 215 are good = 79.63%
196 + 7 + 24 = 227 monitors, 196 out of 227 are good = 86.34%

Yeah, and if I did the math wrong, things are not looking too good for my math class in college, lol.







\

And if you get one of these monitors, VOTE IN THE POLL!


----------



## Nascent

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Now they can label your package as being £30 but if it gets damaged in transit you can only claim back £30.
> I did have some luck and declared mine full price and it got through no questions asked or extra fees, but at most its £30-£40.


I wish that were true. I had to pay a ~£65 fee.


----------



## Stinkypinkie

Anyone have a problem with display dropping out on your catleap, mine tends to be acting weird. Some days it's ok, but few days later it drops display for days then is works again. Purchased from green sum and they want me to ship it back ,but said if they test it and it works, they will ship it back and charge me shipping.
Now I know something is not right with this monitor and don't want them to pull it outta the box, fire it up and say, ah..this works fine ship it back. This problem has been on and off for 2months now. To the point I don't use it anymore, been using my 27'' viewsonic without any problems, so I don't think it's any of my hardware. Anyone have an idea what it could be and how is green sum to deal with?


----------



## Fateful_Ikkou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stinkypinkie*
> 
> Anyone have a problem with display dropping out on your catleap, mine tends to be acting weird. Some days it's ok, but few days later it drops display for days then is works again. Purchased from green sum and they want me to ship it back ,but said if they test it and it works, they will ship it back and charge me shipping.
> Now I know something is not right with this monitor and don't want them to pull it outta the box, fire it up and say, ah..this works fine ship it back. This problem has been on and off for 2months now. To the point I don't use it anymore, been using my 27'' viewsonic without any problems, so I don't think it's any of my hardware. Anyone have an idea what it could be and how is green sum to deal with?


This sounds more along the lines of a power brick failure than a monitor defect. Just my Two cents.


----------



## assassinafro

I've been trying to look around on other websites or forums and I haven't found any proper answer with regards to how common it is for games to support 2560x1440.
Do most if not all AAA games support or is it only some of the pc centric games? Also if it is common what about older games when did 2560x1440 start being supported? There is always a 2560x1600 in performance tests on the nvidia website for all of the cards on all of the games they test, so I am assuming that the majority do. However I never see it as a resolution option for games I play is this because it needs to recognise a higher resolution before you can choose it or do you have to force the resolution to be 2560x1440 in another way?
Thanks


----------



## BoredErica

Many, many, many games support it. I played Wolfenstein: Enemy Territory, even Counterstrike, in 2560x1440. Oblivion, Fallout 3/NV, Skyrim, etc. All modern games. So yeah. Many. The large majority support the resolution straight off, but some old games, (7+ years old or more) might require an INI tweak, but no big deal.

Games won't show a high resolution your monitor can't hit. You need to buy a Catleap to actually see the option. (Or any other high-res monitor). The same applies to changing the resolution of the monitor in general, right click desktop and changing resolution: Higher res won't pop up till' you have a monitor that can display it.

Warning: If you have an old rig and want to play new games on high resolution, you will see some pretty low FPS.

Hope this clears it up.


----------



## jimobjones

I think I broke my monitor I'm hoping someone can help me out. I got my monitor about 2 months ago and it was working great for a few weeks. Then I noticed my screen had the buzzing sound issue so I decided to open it up and do the epoxy fix on the coils. I followed the instructions on the first page here and things seemed to go smoothly. After putting the monitor back together and hooking it up to my pc, I get a black screen and no picture. I can see the backlight go on and off as windows boots, but I can't get a picture. I tried re seating all the cables and I still have this issue.

Is it possible the epoxy fix somehow damaged the board?
Is it more likely a damaged cable?
Is it possible to get replacements boards/cables to fix this?

Any ideas?


----------



## 10terabyte

Just purchased my Catleap Multi today. Here's to hoping for a smooth experience.

This might be sacrilege around here, but I plan on using it with my Hackintosh. Really looking forward to Cinema Display like results without the $1K price tag.

I currently have a little Nvidia 210 in there (becuase my 6870 is giving fits with Mountain Lion) so I hope it will drive this thing ok. I don't really game on this at all, just some video and photo editing here and there.

Fingers crossed!


----------



## Blindrage606

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KarmaKiller*
> 
> Remember guys, Ebay links are not allowed.


This is where people are getting confused. Ebay links ARE allowed outside of the marketplace.


----------



## BoredErica

Ebay links are now allowed, this has been clarified relatively recently. But no, I'm not going to Ebay to specially fish out a good link for a person because they want me to pick a monitor for them based on their specifications.


----------



## calatrava

Hi I am interested in buying a monitor Yamakasi 27 "IPS LED Q270 with speakers and tempered glass to overclock, what current models are possible to overclock or is closed to 60hz? what is the difference between the SE model and model SEI? If someone can post a link, a greeting.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calatrava*
> 
> Hi I am interested in buying a monitor Yamakasi 27 "IPS LED Q270 with speakers and tempered glass to overclock, what current models are possible to overclock or is closed to 60hz? what is the difference between the SE model and model SEI? If someone can post a link, a greeting.


For some reason I keep coming back to this thread to check on replies lol.









SE means no speakers. Probably stands for Speakers Excluded or something.
All models you get from Ebay, unless stated otherwise, default at 60hz, and while some can get it a bit higher, say 65/70, nobody can hit close to 120. If you want 120, you're going to have to go the alleys and pay extra for one.


----------



## calatrava

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> For some reason I keep coming back to this thread to check on replies lol.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SE means no speakers. Probably stands for Speakers Excluded or something.
> All models you get from Ebay, unless stated otherwise, default at 60hz, and while some can get it a bit higher, say 65/70, nobody can hit close to 120. If you want 120, you're going to have to go the alleys and pay extra for one.


Ok Thanks for reply


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zerocraft*
> 
> Yeah I'm seeing an achieva from dreamseller around 50$ cheaper, is there any advantage catleap has on the achieva at all ?


Nope not really like I said they used to be cheaper the only reason why I am buying one again is because I already have 2 other ones and I want them to match other wise I would get a new brand.


----------



## rstora01

How many PPI (pixels per inch) on the Catleap?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rstora01*
> 
> How many PPI (pixels per inch) on the Catleap?


All I know is, 27 inch, 1440p. Good as it gets.


----------



## lattyware

So, I ordered a 2703 w/Tempered Glass on the 26th from bigclothcraft, (just under £210) he contacted me that night to ask for a bit more info, and then it all happened really fast (shipped the next day, in fact). I got contacted by DHL that I needed to pay customs stuff (£8), so I presume I'll see it monday. £220 is pretty good as a total, here is hoping the monitor is a good one - it's all gone very smoothly thus far.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lattyware*
> 
> So, I ordered a 2703 w/Tempered Glass on the 26th from bigclothcraft, (just under £210) he contacted me that night to ask for a bit more info, and then it all happened really fast (shipped the next day, in fact). I got contacted by DHL that I needed to pay customs stuff (£8), so I presume I'll see it monday. £220 is pretty good as a total, here is hoping the monitor is a good one - it's all gone very smoothly thus far.


Yup! You will be very happy I'm sure. Same monitor, same speed, great communication. Mine has a minor issue with a bright spot on the screen but it's rarely noticable (not at all when I'm gaming). Let us know how it goes


----------



## soldierblue

Do you guys think I'd be doing myself a disservice by getting a "pixel perfect" Q271 from Green-sum at the $440 price point?

I've seen a lot of impressions, but not a whole lot on the Q271s themselves. I'd get a 270 or 2703, but I really want HDMI and a scaler for consoles.

It's either that or wait for the Asus PB278Q.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue*
> 
> Do you guys think I'd be doing myself a disservice by getting a "pixel perfect" Q271 from Green-sum at the $440 price point?
> I've seen a lot of impressions, but not a whole lot on the Q271s themselves. I'd get a 270 or 2703, but I really want HDMI and a scaler for consoles.
> It's either that or wait for the Asus PB278Q.


As said

It does not account for all malfunctioning pixels, just dead pixels. Even if they did, there is still backlight bleed to worry about. The chance of dead pixels is low, and having it near the center of your vision so that you might actually see it is even lower. IMO, not worth it.


----------



## soldierblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> As said
> It does not account for all malfunctioning pixels, just dead pixels. Even if they did, there is still backlight bleed to worry about. The chance of dead pixels is low, and having it near the center of your vision so that you might actually see it is even lower. IMO, not worth it.


What about the monitor in general?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue*
> 
> What about the monitor in general?


You can purchase a warranty, but shipping will be dumb. Unless it ships DOA or some ridiculous amount of dead pixels, you won't get a refund. I believe all of these do not have a scalar. You can go with 2703 with multi.


----------



## soldierblue

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> You can purchase a warranty, but shipping will be dumb. Unless it ships DOA or some ridiculous amount of dead pixels, you won't get a refund. I believe all of these do not have a scalar. You can go with 2703 with multi.


I'm pretty sure the Q271 is the 2703 multi. It looks like it at least.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Q271-LED-2560X1440WQHD-27-S-IPS-Hdmi-Speaker-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/110914205130?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D2400179197400629933%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D110914205130%26

My only reasoning for going pixel perfect was to have recourse via PayPal in case it showed up with some. It's only $30 more.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soldierblue*
> 
> I'm pretty sure the Q271 is the 2703 multi. It looks like it at least.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Q271-LED-2560X1440WQHD-27-S-IPS-Hdmi-Speaker-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/110914205130?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14%26meid%3D2400179197400629933%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1006%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D110914205130%26
> My only reasoning for going pixel perfect was to have recourse via PayPal in case it showed up with some. It's only $30 more.


Quite strange, I can't find a 2703 multi. The Q271 looks a bit different than the 2703, but almost the same. Q270 on the other hand looks much different.


----------



## soldierblue

If I didn't need HDMI I'd have pulled the trigger on one months ago. At $400+ it's less of a no-brainer. I guess I don't really care as long as it lasts a year.


----------



## GODMODE09

Hi ,

I'm about to buy this monitor and I have a few doubts that needs to be cleared first .. (Just joined this forum







)

I want to play the latest racing games using Logitech G27 steering wheels @ ultra settings using a really nice monitor. Hopefully this one as I find it really good value for money.
I am posting my yet to be build gaming rig's configuration below and want to know if it can allow me to play @ ultra settings using this monitor.

Intel i-5 3550 Ivy Bridge (no overclocking)
2x4GB @1600Mhz Gskill RAM
HD 7850 2GB Graphic card
120GB Crucial M4 SSD
Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H 32GB DDR3 Intel Motherboard
Corsair TX v2 750W
Microsoft Sidewinder x4
Case Cossair carbide 400R
DVD drive + wifi adapter

Also I see there are various models, can u please point me out a model that has 120hz refresh rate ?
I'm not interested in speakers, but would prefer one with HDMI. Height adjustable stand would be nice too. My room gets a lot of dust from outside, so glass is better too.

*I live in India and also want to know how much do I have to pay exactly including all taxes and charges for the monitor.*

Can u please help me with the details?

Thanks in advance


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GODMODE09*
> 
> Hi ,
> I'm about to buy this monitor and I have a few doubts that needs to be cleared first .. (Just joined this forum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> I want to play the latest racing games using Logitech G27 steering wheels @ ultra settings using a really nice monitor. Hopefully this one as I find it really good value for money.
> I am posting my yet to be build gaming rig's configuration below and want to know if it can allow me to play @ ultra settings using this monitor.
> Intel i-5 3550 Ivy Bridge (no overclocking)
> 2x4GB @1600Mhz Gskill RAM
> HD 7850 2GB Graphic card
> 120GB Crucial M4 SSD
> Gigabyte GA-H77-DS3H 32GB DDR3 Intel Motherboard
> Corsair TX v2 750W
> Microsoft Sidewinder x4
> Case Cossair carbide 400R
> DVD drive + wifi adapter
> Also I see there are various models, can u please point me out a model that has 120hz refresh rate ?
> I'm not interested in speakers, but would prefer one with HDMI. Height adjustable stand would be nice too. My room gets a lot of dust from outside, so glass is better too.
> *I live in India and also want to know how much do I have to pay exactly including all taxes and charges for the monitor.*
> Can u please help me with the details?
> Thanks in advance


1. Welcome!
2. It is most definitely good value for the money. That's why there are 900 pages of discussions on this brand alone.
3. The only one with it is the 2b model which is discontinued. Your best bet is to simply buy a 60 hz. Unfortunately they can usually only get to 65-75 hz. You can buy 120hz PCB if you know where to look.
4. SE = No speakers. Multi = has HDMI inputs
5. If you want height adjustibility, go with the Crossover. It will cost a bit more, but the price of the stand outweighs the extra cost.
6. All of the Korean monitors talked about on this site are glossy. You can also get the tempered glass version.
7. Unfortunately I do not live in India, so I do not know. Maybe a site on Google can help?

Good luck and I hope you find the right monitor!


----------



## GODMODE09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 1. Welcome!
> 2. It is most definitely good value for the money. That's why there are 900 pages of discussions on this brand alone.
> 3. The only one with it is the 2b model which is discontinued. Your best bet is to simply buy a 60 hz. Unfortunately they can usually only get to 65-75 hz. You can buy 120hz PCB if you know where to look.
> 4. SE = No speakers. Multi = has HDMI inputs
> 5. If you want height adjustibility, go with the Crossover. It will cost a bit more, but the price of the stand outweighs the extra cost.
> 6. All of the Korean monitors talked about on this site are glossy. You can also get the tempered glass version.
> 7. Unfortunately I do not live in India, so I do not know. Maybe a site on Google can help?
> Good luck and I hope you find the right monitor!


Thank you








Any idea if my config is good enough to run 60FPS+ on the latest car games in ultra settings ?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GODMODE09*
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Any idea if my config is good enough to run 60FPS+ on the latest car games in ultra settings ?


7870 would be enough, I believe. SLI GTX 560 if you want to be safe.


----------



## GODMODE09

Can't really afford to SLI GTX 560ti right now.. I might go for a HD 7870 Ghz edition over 7850.
 








Btw, how is 6ms response time for Racing games using wheels @ ultra settings?

Is 8ms too much ?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GODMODE09*
> 
> Can't really afford to SLI GTX 560ti right now.. I might go for a HD 7870 Ghz edition over 7850.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, how is 6ms response time for Racing games using wheels @ ultra settings?
> Is 8ms too much ?


I personally see no difference. Response times are measured differently across different companies so it's quite hard to compare. Actual tests show this monitor to have 11ms response. But don't fret, because all of the other monitors claiming uber low response times actually had higher response times too, and Catleap was definitely one of the lowest among IPS. Chances are, if you are using a '5 ms monitor', it's probably...actually 8ms or whatnot.

But still: I personally see no difference. I don't play racing games, but I play FPS/RPG games, it's working quite well. That is really one of the main selling points of the Korean brand, price aside: The lowest response times around town.


----------



## Blindrage606

Does anyone know if this monitor will mount flush with the wall when mounted or will I have to remove stand? Considering it does have external vesa points already?

Monitor eBay Link


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blindrage606*
> 
> Does anyone know if this monitor will mount flush with the wall when mounted or will I have to remove stand? Considering it does have external vesa points already?
> Monitor eBay Link


I thin it has mounts BUT stand must be removed. Gotta get dirty for the Catleap.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Got my new Catleap 2B about a week ago now, loving every day of it.



Entrance to club pls?

Anyone heard anything on when the next batch of these bad boys will be coming?


----------



## Derek1387

Trying to decide between one of these monitors, or a 23-24" 120hZ monitor. All I do is game.

I can get a cat leap locally and see it firsthand. No dead pixels or back light issues...

Thoughts?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1387*
> 
> Trying to decide between one of these monitors, or a 23-24" 120hZ monitor. All I do is game.
> I can get a cat leap locally and see it firsthand. No dead pixels or back light issues...
> Thoughts?


It's up to you really. For a 120hz monitor you need a good set of cards that can push 120fps or near it. The catleap looks nice no matter what.


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> It's up to you really. For a 120hz monitor you need a good set of cards that can push 120fps or near it. The catleap looks nice no matter what.


I plan on getting a 2nd 670 sometime, just no need for it at the time being.

I am leaning towards the catleap... especially cuz its local, and i know it has no dead pixels....


----------



## lattyware

I just got mine - it appears to be flawless, no dead pixels I can see, no hum. I'm actually now at a loss. I currently run three 24" 1920x1200 monitors, and I really want to grab two more catleaps, but as they only have one input, that'll be a massive pain to swap across from my main PC to gaming PC. It'd probably also mean getting a new GFX card for my main PC, and an adaptor to do DP->DVI at the needed resolution.

Got to admit, I'm still tempted.


----------



## assassinafro

Ordered mine on Sunday here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-LITE-27-LG-S-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-16-9-6ms-Monitor-/120911803193?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c26e7b339#ht_15000wt_1159
Its been dispatched today and estimated time of arrival Friday (im in the UK) Cant wait just hope its in good condition


----------



## Stinkypinkie

Does anyone know where to get replacement parts this this q270 monitor. Monitor was purchased 7/28/2012 a from greensum, they don't want to do anything and I have no recourse of getting my money back so now, I guess I need to fix it, somehow. And yes, the power supply works fine. Any info on parts or what goes bad would be greatly appreciated..


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

It's been about 2.5 months since I've bought my monitor that it is finally showing problems, namely the issue of fading to black. The monitor works fine for a couple seconds and then the display becomes lost and then the entire thing just gradually fades to black. However, the backlight is still on and the blue light on the bottom right hand corner is still on, which indicates that the monitor is still on.

I've tried a new DVI cable to no avail (the one I was previously using is a 24 AWG DVI-D cable from Monoprice). I've ordered a new power brick from eBay, in hopes that that will fix the problem. I will keep you guys updated. In addition to this, I've also tried turning the monitor on/off, replugging in the power supply, pulling the DVI cable in/out, cold rebooting the computer, and plugging the DVI cable into another DVI port. The monitor will turn on and then fade back to black again.

If the new power supply doesn't work, I will be very disappointed about the fact that after 2.5 months of working fine, the monitor decides to die on me. I purchased no warranty because I didn't think I would need it, but now, I wish I did.


----------



## Cavey00

That sucks Admiral, but thank you for posting this and I hope to see what you find. I bought the warranty despite the aprox 85-90% success rate people have had. To me, it was a lot of money to be gambling with, but worth the risk for the display. I'm sure there are very few of us that can afford the Dell or Apple displays. Good luck, hope that fixes it.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> It's been about 2.5 months since I've bought my monitor that it is finally showing problems, namely the issue of fading to black. The monitor works fine for a couple seconds and then the display becomes lost and then the entire thing just gradually fades to black. However, the backlight is still on and the blue light on the bottom right hand corner is still on, which indicates that the monitor is still on.
> I've tried a new DVI cable to no avail (the one I was previously using is a 24 AWG DVI-D cable from Monoprice). I've ordered a new power brick from eBay, in hopes that that will fix the problem. I will keep you guys updated. In addition to this, I've also tried turning the monitor on/off, replugging in the power supply, pulling the DVI cable in/out, cold rebooting the computer, and plugging the DVI cable into another DVI port. The monitor will turn on and then fade back to black again.
> If the new power supply doesn't work, I will be very disappointed about the fact that after 2.5 months of working fine, the monitor decides to die on me. I purchased no warranty because I didn't think I would need it, but now, I wish I did.


I had an issue with my catleap where the display only showed the lit up blank background too. If you can't get it working, try opening it up and check the loose connections. My particular problem was fixed when I wiggled the top board back in. It's just taped to the monitor but there's 2 connectors holding it in to the top of the monitor. I had to put it out and move it back in.

If only you lived just a little closer I'd do it myself lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *assassinafro*
> 
> Ordered mine on Sunday here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-LITE-27-LG-S-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-16-9-6ms-Monitor-/120911803193?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c26e7b339#ht_15000wt_1159
> Its been dispatched today and estimated time of arrival Friday (im in the UK) Cant wait just hope its in good condition


Wrong thread, this is the Catleap thread.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Same panel, same innards, more or less same monitor rebadged isn't it?


----------



## hollowtek

the price they want for the 2b makes it grossly overpriced. it's still much cheaper, but i can only imagine the headache when/if the display decides to take a dump on you. going to wait this display thing out until 1440/1600p becomes more mainstream and cheaper.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhantomTaco*
> 
> Same panel, same innards, more or less same monitor rebadged isn't it?


Same panel but the monitor outsides are different and some of the models they have are different as well. A few models have different internals. Plus they have their own thread.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hollowtek*
> 
> the price they want for the 2b makes it grossly overpriced. it's still much cheaper, but i can only imagine the headache when/if the display decides to take a dump on you. going to wait this display thing out until 1440/1600p becomes more mainstream and cheaper.


The price includes shipping back to them in case of a warranty issue, so I think its pretty justified TBH, plus being guaranteed 120hz and having each monitor pretested before shipping is a great bonus.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hollowtek*
> 
> the price they want for the 2b makes it grossly overpriced. it's still much cheaper, but i can only imagine the headache when/if the display decides to take a dump on you. going to wait this display thing out until 1440/1600p becomes more mainstream and cheaper.


Get a 120hz pcb.


----------



## AcidNfection

Anyone heard anything about www(dot)creativepeter(dot)com? The Catleaps on this site are priced very nicely just not sure if it's legit or a scam of some sort.


----------



## PhantomTaco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Anyone heard anything about www(dot)creativepeter(dot)com? The Catleaps on this site are priced very nicely just not sure if it's legit or a scam of some sort.


Add an extra 100 bucks for shipping. Check for yourself when you add to cart. They are paypal verified so if somethign goes wrong you've got that to fall back on.


----------



## AcidNfection

Ah! I should have checked the whole process, completely forgot about the possible shipping. Thanks anyhow for checking that!


----------



## Stinkypinkie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> It's been about 2.5 months since I've bought my monitor that it is finally showing problems, namely the issue of fading to black. The monitor works fine for a couple seconds and then the display becomes lost and then the entire thing just gradually fades to black. However, the backlight is still on and the blue light on the bottom right hand corner is still on, which indicates that the monitor is still on.
> I've tried a new DVI cable to no avail (the one I was previously using is a 24 AWG DVI-D cable from Monoprice). I've ordered a new power brick from eBay, in hopes that that will fix the problem. I will keep you guys updated. In addition to this, I've also tried turning the monitor on/off, replugging in the power supply, pulling the DVI cable in/out, cold rebooting the computer, and plugging the DVI cable into another DVI port. The monitor will turn on and then fade back to black again.
> If the new power supply doesn't work, I will be very disappointed about the fact that after 2.5 months of working fine, the monitor decides to die on me. I purchased no warranty because I didn't think I would need it, but now, I wish I did.


Sorry to hear that, looks like your in the same boat as me, 2months old and busted with no warranty. I hope these catleaps are not gonna be dying off soon, you will see alot of perplexed owners. I hope there are parts available, otherwise this is going to be a big paper weight. Hope the power supply fixes it.


----------



## dandenoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Get a 120hz pcb.


As far as I know, you can't get just the PCB.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dandenoth*
> 
> As far as I know, you can't get just the PCB.


You can, but it's hard to.


----------



## dandenoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> You can, but it's hard to.


If someone finds one, let me know


----------



## lithium86

For those guys who've been using the Yamakasi Catleap for 2-3 months, any issues or failures so far?

I've read about people experiencing screen dimness after a few months of use. Is it a common occurrence ?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lithium86*
> 
> For those guys who've been using the Yamakasi Catleap for 2-3 months, any issues or failures so far?
> I've read about people experiencing screen dimness after a few months of use. Is it a common occurrence ?


I've had mine since early March. Other than initial issues with 'sparkly pixels' in the first month, it has been trouble free since.









The 'sparkly pixel' issue seemed to go away by massaging the cable and ensuring an even and secure connection at the ends.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> It's been about 2.5 months since I've bought my monitor that it is finally showing problems, namely the issue of fading to black. The monitor works fine for a couple seconds and then the display becomes lost and then the entire thing just gradually fades to black. However, the backlight is still on and the blue light on the bottom right hand corner is still on, which indicates that the monitor is still on.
> I've tried a new DVI cable to no avail (the one I was previously using is a 24 AWG DVI-D cable from Monoprice). I've ordered a new power brick from eBay, in hopes that that will fix the problem. I will keep you guys updated. In addition to this, I've also tried turning the monitor on/off, replugging in the power supply, pulling the DVI cable in/out, cold rebooting the computer, and plugging the DVI cable into another DVI port. The monitor will turn on and then fade back to black again.
> If the new power supply doesn't work, I will be very disappointed about the fact that after 2.5 months of working fine, the monitor decides to die on me. I purchased no warranty because I didn't think I would need it, but now, I wish I did.


How's that







?


----------



## freeman29

I think that the lifetime of this Korean monitors is for just some months. I have one Achieva Shimian, and I'm waiting for the day that it dies


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> How's that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


I guess you didn't see what I said after what you said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> I had an issue with my catleap where the display only showed the lit up blank background too. If you can't get it working, try opening it up and check the loose connections. My particular problem was fixed when I wiggled the top board back in. It's just taped to the monitor but there's 2 connectors holding it in to the top of the monitor. I had to put it out and move it back in.
> If only you lived just a little closer I'd do it myself lol


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lithium86*
> 
> For those guys who've been using the Yamakasi Catleap for 2-3 months, any issues or failures so far?
> I've read about people experiencing screen dimness after a few months of use. Is it a common occurrence ?


Actually it wil be great , if we add a poll at the start of the thread, like this in seccions depending on the issue

_FAILURE RATE YAMASAKI CATLEAP_

*1-How many month of life had your Yamasaki?
*
One Month and die on me
Two Month and die on me
Three Month and die on me
Four Month and die on me
Wait a minute, mine comes DOA!!

*2- I had some dead pixel when i got it and now i have more!!*

I have 2-3 more dead pixel now
I have 3-5 more dead pixel now
I have 5-7 more dead pixel now
I have WOW more than listed here!! OMG

*3- My screen started flickering or some sort of screen problem ?*

After 1 month im getting issues like that
After 2 month im getting issues like that
After 3 month im getting issues like that
After 4 month im getting issues like that
What the heck!! my monitor just going more crazy than that.

Can some one give me ideas what to put on the POLL and if the thread creator can add the POOL please!!!
let see how this korean monitors really worst it or not.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> I guess you didn't see what I said after what you said.


No, I did, haha. Thanks for the advice.

Still waiting on the power brick to come by.


----------



## lithium86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> Actually it wil be great , if we add a poll at the start of the thread, like this in seccions depending on the issue
> _FAILURE RATE YAMASAKI CATLEAP_
> *1-How many month of life had your Yamasaki?
> *
> One Month and die on me
> Two Month and die on me
> Three Month and die on me
> Four Month and die on me
> Wait a minute, mine comes DOA!!
> *2- I had some dead pixel when i got it and now i have more!!*
> I have 2-3 more dead pixel now
> I have 3-5 more dead pixel now
> I have 5-7 more dead pixel now
> I have WOW more than listed here!! OMG
> *3- My screen started flickering or some sort of screen problem ?*
> After 1 month im getting issues like that
> After 2 month im getting issues like that
> After 3 month im getting issues like that
> After 4 month im getting issues like that
> What the heck!! my monitor just going more crazy than that.
> Can some one give me ideas what to put on the POLL and if the thread creator can add the POOL please!!!
> let see how this korean monitors really worst it or not.


I think that's a great idea. Maybe add an option to state "No issues yet".


----------



## DJ_Reason

Does anyone have the white version? if so, can you guys post some pictures of the white version?
I was not able to find any pictures of the white version of the catleap lol
I really want a white monitor to go along with my new white PC setup.
I just want to check how it looks before splurging $350 on one.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_Reason*
> 
> Does anyone have the white version? if so, can you guys post some pictures of the white version?
> I was not able to find any pictures of the white version of the catleap lol
> I really want a white monitor to go along with my new white PC setup.
> I just want to check how it looks before splurging $350 on one.


There's plenty of pics if you search this thread.


----------



## DJ_Reason

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> There's plenty of pics if you search this thread.


what really?
I went through hundreds of pages and I only see black bezel..
what do I have to type in search thread D: to find them white versions!!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lithium86*
> 
> For those guys who've been using the Yamakasi Catleap for 2-3 months, any issues or failures so far?
> I've read about people experiencing screen dimness after a few months of use. Is it a common occurrence ?


For me it has been perfect. I got mine at the start of August.


----------



## Clovertail100

Well, I've had my first Q270 for awhile now. I'm satisfied enough to make the leap; I just purchased two more glass/speaker versions with the perfect pixel guarantee from green-sum. I guess I'll need to buy new cards. Hopefully 8xxx or 7xx will power these adequately. In the meantime, I'll be burning up my 6950's. It feels nice to have monitors to grow into, that are worth growing into.


----------



## KazeyMe

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> For me it has been perfect. I got mine at the start of August.


Got mine since Mid April and it*s still performing really nice;no problems at all.


----------



## lithium86

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mookster*
> 
> Well, I've had my first Q270 for awhile now. I'm satisfied enough to make the leap; I just purchased two more glass/speaker versions with the perfect pixel guarantee from green-sum. I guess I'll need to buy new cards. Hopefully 8xxx or 7xx will power these adequately. In the meantime, I'll be burning up my 6950's. It feels nice to have monitors to grow into, that are worth growing into.


When did you get yours?


----------



## londonfire93

does anyone have a broke that i can buy from them ineed the cables and or circuit board. i am unable to find any replacement parts.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *londonfire93*
> 
> does anyone have a broke that i can buy from them ineed the cables and or circuit board. i am unable to find any replacement parts.


Not me, but I did see a non-working display sell on ebay the other day. Ended up fetching over $100. I was wondering if that was really worth it.


----------



## Clovertail100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lithium86*
> 
> When did you get yours?


Got my first one in April.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Just got my second catleap and for some reason every morning when I go to start it, only the second one, it has a bunch of noise all over the picture and I have to un plug the dvi cable and plug it back in to make this go away what should I do?


----------



## exhibitO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Just got my second catleap and for some reason every morning when I go to start it, only the second one, it has a bunch of noise all over the picture and I have to un plug the dvi cable and plug it back in to make this go away what should I do?


I'm getting something similar but mine stops when I turn off the screen and turn it back on.

My lines look very strange and I've checked all my connections they are intact. And all my drivers are up to date It never happens when I boot completely into windows. Only on bios start up. Here is a picture.
http://www.imgur.com/CxZyR.jpeg

Can someone help?
Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

I just opened up my monitor today and played fiddled around with the connections on the back. Didn't really think I did anything, but now my monitor is working fine. For those who don't know, I have had this monitor for about 2.5 months now, and recently, the display would fade to black.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> I just opened up my monitor today and played fiddled around with the connections on the back. Didn't really think I did anything, but now my monitor is working fine. For those who don't know, I have had this monitor for about 2.5 months now, and recently, the display would fade to black.


Yea my friend got mad at his and hit the back of the monitor and it started working again. You just never know lol


----------



## Ragsters

Does anyone one have any comments about the D series PCB on this monitor?


----------



## dmxdex2020

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> It's up to you really. For a 120hz monitor you need a good set of cards that can push 120fps or near it. The catleap looks nice no matter what.


Thats only if you enable vsync which is pointless, you will still see the benefits below 120fps. i bet most people who have these monitors dont get 120fps in alot of the titles they play, but still see a major difference over anty 60hz panel.


----------



## 19DELTASNAFU

Got my catleap............................... headache inducing MF. Check this thread....................... if anyone needs one.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1311085/need-suggestions-for-sli-surround-3d-set-up#post_18319387


----------



## londonfire93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> I'm getting something similar but mine stops when I turn off the screen and turn it back on.
> My lines look very strange and I've checked all my connections they are intact. And all my drivers are up to date It never happens when I boot completely into windows. Only on bios start up. Here is a picture.
> http://www.imgur.com/CxZyR.jpeg
> Can someone help?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


one of mine did the same thing when i was updating the nvidia drivers. i just restarted my computer and changed the resolution a few times then they went away.


----------



## kissenger

Hey you guys, are the newer Catleaps still overclockable to over 60Hz refresh rate?


----------



## mdfree

Hi, I have flashing pixels with my monitor(not catleap monitor but should be same panel). This problem can be solved by turning the monitor on and off until I see the perfect screen in black background, but it is not permanent. I already tried it with HD6450/HD6870/HD7850 on different PCs with different resolution and problem still exists. Here is the video: 



 Just wondering is there someone has the same problem as mine? Thanks.


----------



## Cryingvoid

Hey guys!

I'm planning to buy a 27" WQHD IPS monitor with low input lag and am browsing right now for variants.
I still cannot find it anywhere... so... is the Yamakasi Catleap 27" DVI only really low at input lag?
I'm into competitive fighting games where monitors below 1frame (16ms) are prefferable. Is it doubtelessly sub-1frame lag?

One big question on this monitor and monitors alike, (with no scalers and a single dual link DVI interface) has been bothering me.
Does it work with adapters? If I want to connect, say a ps3 or a 360 to it via HDMI cable > HDMI female to DL DVI male adapter, will it work? One Korean line in the description on ebay confused me: "aduptur vfom othar surze tu DVI DUAL cu'nt uzed with thiz monetur" - http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/150853370910?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item231f8fc41e
It shouldn't be a problem however as I see it. Video signals are the same for both HDMI and DVI as well as is the bandwidth. Sound is the difference, but that's another story.
Please advise!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kissenger*
> 
> Hey you guys, are the newer Catleaps still overclockable to over 60Hz refresh rate?


No, only the ones sold as overclockable are. Pretty much any of the new ones will not be.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdfree*
> 
> Hi, I have flashing pixels with my monitor(not catleap monitor but should be same panel). This problem can be solved by turning the monitor on and off until I see the perfect screen in black background, but it is not permanent. I already tried it with HD6450/HD6870/HD7850 on different PCs with different resolution and problem still exists. Here is the video:
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering is there someone has the same problem as mine? Thanks.


The most common thing that causes this is a bad dvi cord. But I don't know what kind of cord you are using since you don't have the monitor that this thread was made for.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryingvoid*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I'm planning to buy a 27" WQHD IPS monitor with low input lag and am browsing right now for variants.
> I still cannot find it anywhere... so... is the Yamakasi Catleap 27" DVI only really low at input lag?
> I'm into competitive fighting games where monitors below 1frame (16ms) are prefferable. Is it doubtelessly sub-1frame lag?
> One big question on this monitor and monitors alike, (with no scalers and a single dual link DVI interface) has been bothering me.
> Does it work with adapters? If I want to connect, say a ps3 or a 360 to it via HDMI cable > HDMI female to DL DVI male adapter, will it work? One Korean line in the description on ebay confused me: "aduptur vfom othar surze tu DVI DUAL cu'nt uzed with thiz monetur" - http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/150853370910?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item231f8fc41e
> It shouldn't be a problem however as I see it. Video signals are the same for both HDMI and DVI as well as is the bandwidth. Sound is the difference, but that's another story.
> Please advise!


These monitors can only be hooked up with a powered DP to DVI cord or a Dual link DVI cord.


----------



## Cryingvoid

No difference with HDMI, really. You can get a HDMI to DVI cable, or hook it up via adapters like you said. The signal is the same for altogether DP, DVI and HDMI, unlike VGA and other analogue signal transmission interfaces. Or is there another reason?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryingvoid*
> 
> No difference with HDMI, really. You can get a HDMI to DVI cable, or hook it up via adapters like you said. The signal is the same for altogether DP, DVI and HDMI, unlike VGA and other analogue signal transmission interfaces. Or is there another reason?


Single link HDMI is not electrically compatible with Dual link DVI. They are not the same signal. Only single link DVI is compatible with HDMI. (Theoretically, I guess, Dual Link HDMI is exactly compatible with Dual Link DVI... but there isn't a single Dual Link HDMI device on the market).

That being said, at least one person has gotten their Catleap working via HDMI -> SL-DVI adapter. It's pushing it though, as the monitor is barely stable at that point (any iota beyond 60hz @ 1440p results in corrupted images).

Also, without a scalar version of this monitor, you basically won't be able to make use of it - without a scalar, the monitor won't show 1080p - at all. You might be able to see 720p output, but I can neither confirm nor deny this. Suffice to say, do not get this monitor for consoles if consoles are important.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cryingvoid*
> 
> Hey guys!
> I'm planning to buy a 27" WQHD IPS monitor with low input lag and am browsing right now for variants.
> I still cannot find it anywhere... so... is the Yamakasi Catleap 27" DVI only really low at input lag?
> I'm into competitive fighting games where monitors below 1frame (16ms) are prefferable. Is it doubtelessly sub-1frame lag?
> One big question on this monitor and monitors alike, (with no scalers and a single dual link DVI interface) has been bothering me.
> Does it work with adapters? If I want to connect, say a ps3 or a 360 to it via HDMI cable > HDMI female to DL DVI male adapter, will it work? One Korean line in the description on ebay confused me: "aduptur vfom othar surze tu DVI DUAL cu'nt uzed with thiz monetur" - http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/150853370910?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item231f8fc41e
> It shouldn't be a problem however as I see it. Video signals are the same for both HDMI and DVI as well as is the bandwidth. Sound is the difference, but that's another story.
> Please advise!


\

Actual tests reveal all companies display their response times as lower than it really is. This monitor is 11ms. I've played FPS games on here, no problems. I'm not sure about HDMI to DVI because I never bothered to look into it, sorry.


----------



## Cryingvoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Single link HDMI is not electrically compatible with Dual link DVI. They are not the same signal. Only single link DVI is compatible with HDMI. (Theoretically, I guess, Dual Link HDMI is exactly compatible with Dual Link DVI... but there isn't a single Dual Link HDMI device on the market).
> That being said, at least one person has gotten their Catleap working via HDMI -> SL-DVI adapter. It's pushing it though, as the monitor is barely stable at that point (any iota beyond 60hz @ 1440p results in corrupted images).
> Also, without a scalar version of this monitor, you basically won't be able to make use of it - without a scalar, the monitor won't show 1080p - at all. You might be able to see 720p output, but I can neither confirm nor deny this. Suffice to say, do not get this monitor for consoles if consoles are important.


Man, that's a low blow. But thanks a tone for clarifying! I guess, other sexy low lag 27" WQHD like HAZRO HZ27WC are also pass me by.

So... if I do need a scaler, are there any low lag IPS options for me left? Or I'll be forced back to TN TFT for low lag console gameplay anyway?


----------



## Cryingvoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> \
> Actual tests reveal all companies display their response times as lower than it really is. This monitor is 11ms. I've played FPS games on here, no problems. I'm not sure about HDMI to DVI because I never bothered to look into it, sorry.


RT HNTD W IL
RT HNTD W IL
RT HNTD W IL









UPD: oh yeah! Has anyone purchased/tested input lag for a recent asus pb278q?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mdfree*
> 
> Hi, I have flashing pixels with my monitor(not catleap monitor but should be same panel). This problem can be solved by turning the monitor on and off until I see the perfect screen in black background, but it is not permanent. I already tried it with HD6450/HD6870/HD7850 on different PCs with different resolution and problem still exists. Here is the video:
> 
> 
> 
> Just wondering is there someone has the same problem as mine? Thanks.


I had that issue, but multiplied greatly. It was like my monitor was made of pixie dust.









I never changed the cable, but by massaging it, and ensuring a secure and sturdy connection at both the PC and back of monitor, the issue disappeared and hasn't returned. This was back in March, when I first got my Catleap.


----------



## mdfree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I had that issue, but multiplied greatly. It was like my monitor was made of pixie dust.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I never changed the cable, but by massaging it, and ensuring a secure and sturdy connection at both the PC and back of monitor, the issue disappeared and hasn't returned. This was back in March, when I first got my Catleap.


I saw your post before and tried to "massage" the cable port:blushsmil but it stills there. I already order the new 24wag DVI cable from monoprice and will report back once it arrives. Thank you.


----------



## NotReadyYet

How are these monitors for intense first person shooters? Imainly use my computer for gaming and was wondering how these catleaps are in comparison to a 120hz or 144hz 1920x1080 monitor. Is there significant ghosting? What is everyones thoughts on this?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Not ReadyYet*
> 
> How are these monitors for intense first person shooters? Imainly use my computer for gaming and was wondering how these catleaps are in comparison to a 120hz or 144hz 1920x1080 monitor. Is there significant ghosting? What is everyones thoughts on this?


You did search the thread for answers before posting, right?

The answer is no. And it's hard to compare a 60hz to a 144hz because the point of the 60hz is to get the IPS/higher resolution.


----------



## Mk32784

Hello all,
I have been following this thread for a while, thinking about getting one of the Catleaps.
I finally pulled and bought a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SEi from Green-sum off eBay, the monitor arrived the other day and worked beautifully out of the box.
However after several hours of use the monitor screen suddenly turned black, there was no poping noise or anything. And all I can see now is a red light in the corner.
I am going to go test the power supply (the green light on it still is lit) and if the powersupply checks out I will probably open her up to see if there any loose cables. I already tried another DVI-D cable and my graphics card/drivers are all solid as well. Weird thing is when I plug the monitor into my computer windows sees the monitor and I can change the resolution/refresh rate however the monitor is just black, not even the black light is on.

I have contacted the seller and waiting a reply from him, I don't really want to pay $120 to ship it back...
Anyone else have any similar issues? I am hopping it's just the power supply....


----------



## snipes23

So will an vega gtx280 run one of these q270s?


----------



## Mk32784

So my powresupply is putting out 24v perfectly fine...

Anyone else with a monitor that has a red light but no image or back light?
Yes i tried turning it on... no response from the power button.
Going to be cracking it open.


----------



## MagnaOverclock

Hi guys I plan to buy a new monitor and my budget is 450 €.
I The video card is an MSI GTX 680 Lighting
What monitor do you recommend?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *snipes23*
> 
> So will an vega gtx280 run one of these q270s?


Yes but gaming will be very bad unless you put most settings on low.


----------



## 10terabyte

Ordered mine a while back and was just told by the shipper (BigClothCraft) that they don't have any that meet their standards. Not sure what that means, maybe there was excessive backlight bleed or dead pixels. Anyway, they offered to "upgrade" me to the Q271 (I ordered the Q270) for no additional cost. From what I can tell, this adds HDMI 1.4a where the 270 was 1.3 only. Also, the stand seems to have changed a bit.

I told them yes. Here's to hoping that was a good idea....


----------



## Mk32784

Almost any graphics card that isn't the lowest lowly model from Nvidia/AMD from the past 3/2 years will be able to drive the Catleap fine. Dual Link DVI is pretty standard on graphics cards.

I did open up my monitor and found the loose cable [the connector for the on switch..] and after tighten that the monitor works perfectly, no dead pixels or anything. I run an GTX 480.


----------



## ars3nic

I ordered a "perfect-pixel" (it is) Catleap Q271 from Ebay via green-sum on Saturday, and it arrived today (Wednesday) afternoon. From Seoul to metro Atlanta (USA) in 3 business days? Can't ask for better.

I've just gotten it hooked up, and am now on a quest for an English manual as I never received one, then I'll get further into the performance/quality....


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mk32784*
> 
> Almost any graphics card that isn't the lowest lowly model from Nvidia/AMD from the past 3/2 years will be able to drive the Catleap fine. Dual Link DVI is pretty standard on graphics cards.
> I did open up my monitor and found the loose cable [the connector for the on switch..] and after tighten that the monitor works perfectly, no dead pixels or anything. I run an GTX 480.


Depends on what game you're playing and on what resolution.


----------



## ars3nic

Oh, and for anyone needing to change the OSD language on their Q271 to English: select the bottom main menu item, with the tools on it (understandably), and then select the first option....English will be one of the choices.


----------



## Clovertail100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mookster*
> 
> Well, I've had my first Q270 for awhile now. I'm satisfied enough to make the leap; I just purchased two more glass/speaker versions with the perfect pixel guarantee from green-sum. I guess I'll need to buy new cards. Hopefully 8xxx or 7xx will power these adequately. In the meantime, I'll be burning up my 6950's. It feels nice to have monitors to grow into, that are worth growing into.


These arrived today, both in flawless condition. Now I'm just waiting on some active Mini-DP to dual link DVI changovers.


----------



## timmyfred

I've been having an issue with my Catleap. Often the video will fade out leaving just a blank screen with the backlight on. The power light stays solid green, and the picture will almost always return if I power cycle the monitor, though it sometimes will immediately fade back to black again. Anyone have any idea how to fix it?

For reference, my video card is an XFX DD 7950. I'm also running a secondary 1080p monitor. I've uploaded a video of the fade out as best as I could capture it (since I don't know when it's going to happen, it's hard to get a better one). The video is overly dark and my voice is loud, but at the very start it gives a clear picture of what happens every time. It also shows that the green light is solid.

Any help is much appreciated.

Video: 




[EDIT] Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I'd googled the problem and found another user in this thread that sounded like he had the same issue, and had fixed it with a new DVI-D cable. I bought one on Amazon and the problem persists, though I'm not entirely sold on the quality of the cable (the cable itself seems to be of better quality than the included cable, but I was unfamiliar with the company selling it), so if the consensus is that I need a(nother) new cable, I'd appreciate a link to one known to be decent quality.


----------



## kinkbmxco

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timmyfred*
> 
> I've been having an issue with my Catleap. Often the video will fade out leaving just a blank screen with the backlight on. The power light stays solid green, and the picture will almost always return if I power cycle the monitor, though it sometimes will immediately fade back to black again. Anyone have any idea how to fix it?
> For reference, my video card is an XFX DD 7950. I'm also running a secondary 1080p monitor. I've uploaded a video of the fade out as best as I could capture it (since I don't know when it's going to happen, it's hard to get a better one). The video is overly dark and my voice is loud, but at the very start it gives a clear picture of what happens every time. It also shows that the green light is solid.
> Any help is much appreciated.
> Video:
> 
> 
> 
> [EDIT] Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I'd googled the problem and found another user in this thread that sounded like he had the same issue, and had fixed it with a new DVI-D cable. I bought one on Amazon and the problem persists, though I'm not entirely sold on the quality of the cable (the cable itself seems to be of better quality than the included cable, but I was unfamiliar with the company selling it), so if the consensus is that I need a(nother) new cable, I'd appreciate a link to one known to be decent quality.


I am having a similar problem. A couple weeks after I purchased I noticed sometimes the pixels would start doing this sporadic sparkle all over the screen. I decided to order a new cable from mono price hoping this would rectify the issue. This did not help the problem. The problem progressively got worse over time and eventually the monitor would fade out leaving a blank screen with the back light on as you describe. It would generally correct itself when I powered off then powered back on.
Then powering on and off didn't even fix it. I literally couldn't use my monitor for more than 3 minutes without the screen flashing, pixels sparkling, then eventually just fading out. (this is about 2 months into ownership).
I was so frustrated I was ready to throw the damn thing away. I decided before I did that I would disassemble it and take a look at the connections to make sure everything was seated correctly. With the monitor disassembled I played around with the connection and used some electrical tape to hold everything firmly in place. The monitor was working! I put everything back together but to my dismay about a week later the pixels started sparkling again. I turned the monitor off and on and it corrected the problem.
Probably a month later, leading into this week...the monitor started acting up again in greater frequency. I took it apart and checked the connections again, everything seemed seated, but my monitor is still sucking. I am revisiting overclock.net because I am convinced I will not be able to fix this and ill have to purchase another monitor.
Part of me feels like I just got a bad one, and if I ordered again I wouldn't have problems. The other part of me feels like I should learn my lesson and spend the extra dough to get something more reputable, buy once, cry once. I don't feel like I got my moneys worth with my Yamakasi.
Curious how many other Yamakasi owners are experiencing this problem.


----------



## Derek1387

DO I have to tear into the monitor to find out if I can OC it, or can I just download all the software to TRY to OC it, and if it doesnt work, then just deal with it?

Or if I try to OC it, and its not OC'able, will it damage it?


----------



## line6

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kinkbmxco*
> 
> I am having a similar problem. A couple weeks after I purchased I noticed sometimes the pixels would start doing this sporadic sparkle all over the screen. I decided to order a new cable from mono price hoping this would rectify the issue. This did not help the problem. The problem progressively got worse over time and eventually the monitor would fade out leaving a blank screen with the back light on as you describe. It would generally correct itself when I powered off then powered back on.
> Then powering on and off didn't even fix it. I literally couldn't use my monitor for more than 3 minutes without the screen flashing, pixels sparkling, then eventually just fading out. (this is about 2 months into ownership).
> I was so frustrated I was ready to throw the damn thing away. I decided before I did that I would disassemble it and take a look at the connections to make sure everything was seated correctly. With the monitor disassembled I played around with the connection and used some electrical tape to hold everything firmly in place. The monitor was working! I put everything back together but to my dismay about a week later the pixels started sparkling again. I turned the monitor off and on and it corrected the problem.
> Probably a month later, leading into this week...the monitor started acting up again in greater frequency. I took it apart and checked the connections again, everything seemed seated, but my monitor is still sucking. I am revisiting overclock.net because I am convinced I will not be able to fix this and ill have to purchase another monitor.
> Part of me feels like I just got a bad one, and if I ordered again I wouldn't have problems. The other part of me feels like I should learn my lesson and spend the extra dough to get something more reputable, buy once, cry once. I don't feel like I got my moneys worth with my Yamakasi.
> Curious how many other Yamakasi owners are experiencing this problem.


Mine 2. not as bad as what yours is. just pixles flashing. was so so when you first turn it on for about a month and a half. then like yours if you turn the power off it usually fixes it. did get worse started doing it pretty much every time you power on the pc. I gave it a good whack on the side and hasn't done it in a week. so im thinking something is lose in there. right now im just gona deal with it. if i have to pull it apart i will. overall i'm still happy with my $300 purchase. its looks amazing and once its stops acting weird on startup its fine for the rest of the day. whata u gona do. took a chance buying it. on the plus side only one dead pixel at the bottom left . also mine is the 2703


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1387*
> 
> DO I have to tear into the monitor to find out if I can OC it, or can I just download all the software to TRY to OC it, and if it doesnt work, then just deal with it?
> Or if I try to OC it, and its not OC'able, will it damage it?


Follow the instructions on page 1. If when you oc too high and you get no image, that means you Oc'ed it too high. It'll reset by itself, just like a bad resolution setting or whatnot. If it sticks, it oc'ed.


----------



## Koehler

How good are the VESA mounts on this monitor?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Derek1387*
> 
> DO I have to tear into the monitor to find out if I can OC it, or can I just download all the software to TRY to OC it, and if it doesnt work, then just deal with it?
> Or if I try to OC it, and its not OC'able, will it damage it?


Look on the side of your box where all the bar codes are, mine says q270led*2f*
Hence mine is a 2F


----------



## Theomico

I bought my monitor in May 2012. I was disappointed abut the information provided at that time by the seller on eBay, Green-sum. I know I was supposed to pay the import taxes, but I didn't expect to pay the taxes on the shipping. The seller provided the full price, including the shipping. Since the shipping is somewhere half the price, I let you do the math ...

Till recently, the product was working fine. But then I started to have a power brick issue: screen turns black, the led on the screen flashes red and the led on the power brick flashes green. So I though it would be covered by the 1 year warranty. But the seller, Green-sum, told me the warranty covers only the manpower to repair the product, all the parts have to be purchased by the customer. So, if I want my power brick replaced, I should pay for it. Where is the warranty spirit in this ??

Now, I end-up with a useless screen which, down the road, would cost me as much as buying an HP screen with the trouble in addition.
I would not recommend this product and even less the seller on eBay, Green-sum.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Look on the side of your box where all the bar codes are, mine says q270led*2f*
> Hence mine is a 2F


Well you can all OC Catleaps, it's just a matter of how much. And if you don't know if you have a 2b, you don't.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *exhibitO*
> 
> I'm getting something similar but mine stops when I turn off the screen and turn it back on.
> My lines look very strange and I've checked all my connections they are intact. And all my drivers are up to date It never happens when I boot completely into windows. Only on bios start up. Here is a picture.
> http://www.imgur.com/CxZyR.jpeg
> Can someone help?
> Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 2


Hmm strange I have no idea what your issue is







I found my problem it was the Monoprice Mini DP to DVI-D Dual Link connector, I switched it to my other monitor and then issue switched to that monitor. So I felt it and it was really warm, so I decided to turn off my computer every night instead of twice a week, and the issue is went away


----------



## Clovertail100

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mookster*
> 
> These arrived today, both in flawless condition. Now I'm just waiting on some active Mini-DP to dual link DVI changovers.


Pics!





These latest models have a slight blue temperature, when compared to my original 2B. I haven't fully investigated, but it was fairly easy to color correct my 2B model to match via Catalyst Control Center. There might be some sort of coating under the glass; I'm not certain. Outside of that, both are flawless as promised. Five day delivery.


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Well you can all OC Catleaps, it's just a matter of how much. And if you don't know if you have a 2b, you don't.


The reason I dont know is because I bought it from an individual on here, without the original packaging.


----------



## placidity

How are the 30" catleaps in comparison to a u3011? I'm just wondering. Would a 27" 1440p or 30" 1600p be better for gaming? I hear the 30"s have antiglare coating.


----------



## BoredErica

I think 27 inch is the largest it should get. 30 inches is getting too big, and you suffer a large performance hit.


----------



## MocoIMO

Since I currently have this stand with my Acer 24's
http://www.amazon.com/Triple-Monitor-Stand-Standing-Curved/dp/B006FZY2XK/ref=cm_cr_pr_pb_t

If I upgraded to eyefinity Catleap's would they mount onto this? or would I be stuck with the stock stand?


----------



## Tony1979

Hi every one, I wanted to share my Catleap 2300 ips Mod due that I wanted to Vesa mount it.
I followed the guide in the OP.

After I took the frame apart I realized the 2300 does not have Vesa mounting holes so considering how lite it is, the Arch is strong enough to hold it in place. Just with a drill and some measuring I could mod it in a breeze. Pics will show better!


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## killuchen

Hey guys, I purchased my catleap back in July. Today my monitor started acting up. When it's off the red LED blinks and my monitor will make a blinking/clicking noise. My power brick also blinks green. The only way I'm able to turn my monitor on is if I unplug and replug it back into the power outlet. Is my brick going bad or is it my monitor?


----------



## Quickstrike

Hmm.. still see people buying the Q270. Isn't the 2703 the exact same panel, but with a slightly better stand?

In other words, isn't going with the 2703 a no-brainer?

Thanks.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think 27 inch is the largest it should get. 30 inches is getting too big, and you suffer a large performance hit.


The performance hit between 1440p and 1600p is minimal at most


----------



## speedyeggtart

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> Hey guys, I purchased my catleap back in July. Today my monitor started acting up. When it's off the red LED blinks and my monitor will make a blinking/clicking noise. My power brick also blinks green. The only way I'm able to turn my monitor on is if I unplug and replug it back into the power outlet. Is my brick going bad or is it my monitor?


Try swapping out your brick first, since it is the easiest and painless solution... if that doesn't resolve it then it is something more serious. Good luck!


----------



## froggyluv

I honestly don't know jack about monitors except that I'm ready to upgrade from my old Samsung 2370 23". Spent all day trying to research what's best for overall image and FPS gaming and the name Catleap kept jumping out at me









I've read the intial post here (as well as 120.net) and was ready to pull the trigger at Ebay but now Im understanding that all newer models are basically non-overclockable or at least not anything as they were before without pulling out a drill? Hehe, forgive me Im an older gamer so not totally fluent here but the overwhelming response still seems to be "just buy the mutha!".

Should I try to get the original 270 as opposed to 2703 to have a better chance of getting an OC'er or is it just a gamble anyways? Imthinking I'd get one even if left at 60ghz as the resolution just sounds too sexy to pair up with me 680.

Edit: Ive found out that OC capable versions are sold by Overlord but are around $450 while standard models are available at Ebay for almost $100.00 cheaper -not too sure here and gonna hold off until more info.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *froggyluv*
> 
> I honestly don't know jack about monitors except that I'm ready to upgrade from my old Samsung 2370 23". Spent all day trying to research what's best for overall image and FPS gaming and the name Catleap kept jumping out at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've read the intial post here (as well as 120.net) and was ready to pull the trigger at Ebay but now Im understanding that all newer models are basically non-overclockable or at least not anything as they were before without pulling out a drill? Hehe, forgive me Im an older gamer so not totally fluent here but the overwhelming response still seems to be "just buy the mutha!".
> Should I try to get the original 270 as opposed to 2703 to have a better chance of getting an OC'er or is it just a gamble anyways? Imthinking I'd get one even if left at 60ghz as the resolution just sounds too sexy to pair up with me 680.
> Edit: Ive found out that OC capable versions are sold by Overlord but are around $450 while standard models are available at Ebay for almost $100.00 cheaper -not too sure here and gonna hold off until more info.


Your chance is literally zero either way. Go to that other website you mentioned for 120hz if you want to pay extra. Yes, as you said, Overlord.
There should be a sticky about monitors in this forum section somewhere for reference.


----------



## Dash8Q4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *froggyluv*
> 
> I honestly don't know jack about monitors except that I'm ready to upgrade from my old Samsung 2370 23". Spent all day trying to research what's best for overall image and FPS gaming and the name Catleap kept jumping out at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've read the intial post here (as well as 120.net) and was ready to pull the trigger at Ebay but now Im understanding that all newer models are basically non-overclockable or at least not anything as they were before without pulling out a drill? Hehe, forgive me Im an older gamer so not totally fluent here but the overwhelming response still seems to be "just buy the mutha!".
> Should I try to get the original 270 as opposed to 2703 to have a better chance of getting an OC'er or is it just a gamble anyways? Imthinking I'd get one even if left at 60ghz as the resolution just sounds too sexy to pair up with me 680.
> Edit: Ive found out that OC capable versions are sold by Overlord but are around $450 while standard models are available at Ebay for almost $100.00 cheaper -not too sure here and gonna hold off until more info.


just do it dude!!

I got the Q270SE in June from bigclothcraft in ebay and have had no complains whatsoever. I wasnt really looking for an OC one so i just bought it and it came to aprox 360CAD after shipping and import taxes. I have it paired with a gtx 580 and an 2500K at 4.8Ghz and i can run BF3 with no issues all MAXED out and get anywhere from 30-40FPS...i havent played with the AA settings in nvidia inspector. Just whats set in the game which i cannot recall right now. All i know its a sweet monitor and i wish i had the money to buy two more.

The stand is really wobbly so i took it out and put in an MX ergotron arm. The process of doing is is lengthy and you will most likely damage the bezel on the sides from the prying. This doesnt really matter to me because i dont look at my monitor from the side so who cares...
Apparently the 2703 has a better stand.
Good luck and let us know....

Gaming is amazing with it


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

I need an HDMI version because of my laptop and was looking at these two:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-HDMI-1-4a-Q271-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Monitor-HDMI-/140808076813?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c8d0be0d

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-Multi-DVI-HDMI-VGA-27-LED-2560X1440-S-IPS-Monitor-/160901773832?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item25767e3a08

One is new, one is used. My main question though would be regarding HDMI. Has anyone used HDMI with the Catleap's? I heard there were a lot of advantages to the Q271 including HDMI 1.4a, a better stand, exposed VESA, etc. Just wanted to see others thoughts before springing for one. I am doing web design for school and realized that it was probably smart to spring for one of these.


----------



## AcidNfection

I had the exact issue when I first got mine. It turned out in MY case that the video card fried so I bought a GTX 660, and RMA'ed the fried card simply because I didn't want to wait for the turn around time. I got the new card and it worked perfect.


----------



## Derek1387

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tony1979*
> 
> Hi every one, I wanted to share my Catleap 2300 ips Mod due that I wanted to Vesa mount it.
> I followed the guide in the OP.
> After I took the frame apart I realized the 2300 does not have Vesa mounting holes so considering how lite it is, the Arch is strong enough to hold it in place. Just with a drill and some measuring I could mod it in a breeze. Pics will show better!
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I might have to do that.... thanks!


----------



## Mbalmer

I posted this in a thread that I started, but wanted to post this here also to get some more advice.

After a day of going back and forth between the different 2560x1440p Korean monitors and even monitors sold on websites like newegg, I have decided to get this particular one from this particular seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/150853378334?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item231f8fe11e

What does everyone think?

I still don't quite understand what I need as far as an adapter goes to plug into my US socket....could someone link a suggestion to me?

I also don't think this one has speakers, so I am going to have to get some speakers. I will start to look at Newegg, but am not going to spend alot on this.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I posted this in a thread that I started, but wanted to post this here also to get some more advice.
> After a day of going back and forth between the different 2560x1440p Korean monitors and even monitors sold on websites like newegg, I have decided to get this particular one from this particular seller.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/150853378334?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item231f8fe11e
> What does everyone think?
> I still don't quite understand what I need as far as an adapter goes to plug into my US socket....could someone link a suggestion to me?
> I also don't think this one has speakers, so I am going to have to get some speakers. I will start to look at Newegg, but am not going to spend alot on this.


FYI, the tempered glass is just a piece of glass over the normal monitor frame, and some people, at least early on, complained of dust being behind the glass. Since it's glued on, it's a bit of a PITA to remove.

The cord you need is a basic cord from a PSU. or other monitor, and looks like this:


----------



## Mbalmer

I don't have any spare ones of those...is there a universal name it goes by? So the ac input on the monitor itself is the same, just the end that plugs into a wall is different?

EDIT FOR DEMENTED: You mentioned the tempered glass. Is it a negative? Or can I find one cheaper without it? I am getting this one because it is the cheapest catleap that I saw.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mbalmer*
> 
> I don't have any spare ones of those...is there a universal name it goes by? So the ac input on the monitor itself is the same, just the end that plugs into a wall is different?


No. The plug/cable they send you is a two part. One connects to the monitor, and then has a brick on the end. The cable they supply plugs into that, and then into the wall, but it's a foreign socket. So, the general PSU cable plugs into the brick, and then the wall.

Not sure, as it's been some times since being active in this thread, but there may be resources in the first post to help you find the correct plug you need.


----------



## BoredErica

Tempered glass looks better (aesthetics) and makes cleaning the screen breeze, though.

Buy from BBC, they give a free adapter.


----------



## Demented

I have no issues whatsoever cleaning my screen with simple tap water, and then a microfiber cloth.









Maybe if the tempered glass was more part of the housing itself, and not just a piece glued on, I'd like it more.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> I have no issues whatsoever cleaning my screen with simple tap water, and then a microfiber cloth.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe if the tempered glass was more part of the housing itself, and not just a piece glued on, I'd like it more.


People are saying the minerals in the water isn't good, but meh.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> People are saying the minerals in the water isn't good, but meh.


Not sure why that would be an issue. And I'm pretty particular about it being clean. Like if I come home, and turn on my PC, and I see a spot or anything on the screen, I'll shut down, or at least turn the monitor off, and clean it right on the spot.


----------



## cmac123

I too was thinking about getting the 30 inch model. I just don't know if there are any know issues with this size ( dead pixels etc.....) I'm pretty sure the performance hit compared to the 27 inch would not be noticible. If any of you guys own a 30 inch could you please give us some feedback? Thanks in advance.


----------



## BoredErica

Don't you think a 30 inch would be too large, though? My friend thinks 27 inch is too large, he likes his 21 inch.


----------



## cmac123

I currently have a 27 inch 1080p HP monitor. No it's never too big. I have had this monitor for 2 years now. At first I thought it was huge, now not so much. If I went to one of the 27 inch monitors I worried that I would not see much of a difference. I'm sure the increased rez is great, but I think the increased rez at 30 inches would be even better.


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac123*
> 
> I currently have a 27 inch 1080p HP monitor. No it's never too big. I have had this monitor for 2 years now. At first I thought it was huge, now not so much. If I went to one of the 27 inch monitors I worried that I would not see much of a difference. I'm sure the increased rez is great, but I think the increased rez at 30 inches would be even better.


trust me mate the increased resolution rocks in 27" too









I sometimes reverted the resolution to 1080p to see the difference in games and it was there.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac123*
> 
> I currently have a 27 inch 1080p HP monitor. No it's never too big. I have had this monitor for 2 years now. At first I thought it was huge, now not so much. If I went to one of the 27 inch monitors I worried that I would not see much of a difference. I'm sure the increased rez is great, but I think the increased rez at 30 inches would be even better.


I think you're confused. 1080p on a 23" monitor would be much more crisper and sharper than 1080p on a 27" monitor.

144p on a 27" monitor would be sharper than the same on a 30" monitor.

That's why there are 1600p 30" monitors on the market, to compensate for the loss of pixel density on 30" monitors.


----------



## cmac123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> I think you're confused. 1080p on a 23" monitor would be much more crisper and sharper than 1080p on a 27" monitor.
> 144p on a 27" monitor would be sharper than the same on a 30" monitor.
> That's why there are 1600p 30" monitors on the market, to compensate for the loss of pixel density on 30" monitors.


No I understand that a smaller monitor would seem sharper. I just want to know if anyone has had experience with the 30 " monitors, and if they are worth the extra money.


----------



## phyrewall

Just ordered my "Tempered Glass 27" Yamakasi Catleap 2703 LED IPS 2560x1440 WQHD Monitor" from a seller on Ebay. (Are we allowed to put who the seller was?) It should be arriving in 2-5 work days to here in Germany. Can't wait! Will post review, shipping and tax info when it gets here.


----------



## kissenger

Hey you guys, I just took delivery of my Catleap and one problem that I've been having straight out of the box is that the screen seems to be permanently tilted forward. I've tried tilting it back but the stand seems completely rigid. Has anyone else had this problem?


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmac123*
> 
> No I understand that a smaller monitor would seem sharper. I just want to know if anyone has had experience with the 30 " monitors, and if they are worth the extra money.


Considering the price premium they go for currently I would say that the niche where 30'' is worth the extra money is rather limited. Consider, that for the price of a 30'' you could get 3x 27'' Koreans and perhaps even squeeze into the budget a cheaper VESA stands/wallmounts for these. Main thing going for these 30'' is a 10 bit color.


----------



## kissenger

Also, did we ever get a confirmation that the Yamakasi Catleap 2703 uses the same screen as the older Q270 version?

The packaging and the sticker on my bezel says it's an S-IPS panel, so I can only assume it is one.


----------



## phyrewall

Hopefully I'll be able to tell you in a few days. (DHL don't let me down!)


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phyrewall*
> 
> Hopefully I'll be able to tell you in a few days. (DHL don't let me down!)


Do you mean you're planning to open it up and have a look at the sticker on the panel? If so that would be very helpful.

I'm pretty sure it's the same panel as he regular 270, as according to this there's only one LG panel which is S-IPS, 6ms G2G:

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm


----------



## phyrewall

Most likely I'll be doing a tear down and rebuild to inventory all parts and correct anything that may have shook loose in shipping. So yes, I'll be able to tell you the sticker.


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phyrewall*
> 
> Most likely I'll be doing a tear down and rebuild to inventory all parts and correct anything that may have shook loose in shipping. So yes, I'll be able to tell you the sticker.


Excellent! Good luck


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kissenger*
> 
> Hey you guys, I just took delivery of my Catleap and one problem that I've been having straight out of the box is that the screen seems to be permanently tilted forward. I've tried tilting it back but the stand seems completely rigid. Has anyone else had this problem?


This might be a stupid question but did you put the stand on correctly?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kissenger*
> 
> Hey you guys, I just took delivery of my Catleap and one problem that I've been having straight out of the box is that the screen seems to be permanently tilted forward. I've tried tilting it back but the stand seems completely rigid. Has anyone else had this problem?


I think I only used my stock stand for one day, but I don't remember any issues like that. Maybe it's not flush in the base?


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> This might be a stupid question but did you put the stand on correctly?


I think I did. I don't know how I could have installed it incorrectly. All it involves is plugging the base into the stem/stand part in one action, like in this video:


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kissenger*
> 
> Hey you guys, I just took delivery of my Catleap and one problem that I've been having straight out of the box is that the screen seems to be permanently tilted forward. I've tried tilting it back but the stand seems completely rigid. Has anyone else had this problem?


The same thing happened to one my friend's ones. You most likely put the stand on at a slightly incorrect angle. Adjust that and it will work.


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The same thing happened to one my friend's ones. You most likely put the stand on at a slightly incorrect angle. Adjust that and it will work.


Do you mean the whole actual stand or just the bit at the bottom?

The stand itself was already attached to the monitor when I got it. All I had to do was to plug it into the base. I tried taking the base off and putting it back on again, but it didn't help.


----------



## 10terabyte

I got a Q271 in the other day and its that way too. Not terrible, but enough to notice. I am going to be putting this on some other stand or arm. Probably an Ergotron when I get two of these bad boys.

As the saying goes..."you can't polish a turd". But isn't it a beautiful turd of Koren manufacturing?


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10terabyte*
> 
> I got a Q271 in the other day and its that way too. Not terrible, but enough to notice. I am going to be putting this on some other stand or arm. Probably an Ergotron when I get two of these bad boys.
> As the saying goes..."you can't polish a turd". But isn't it a beautiful turd of Koren manufacturing?


Yeah, it's really annoying. I've got mine propped up by a book so that it's at an acceptable angle.

Let me know if you find a fix.


----------



## 10terabyte

I have skimmed this thread over and over, and searched, but haven't found an answer to this:

Is the monitor (Q271 in my case) capable of displaying 2560x1440 over the HDMI connector?

I know my laptop and desktop video cards won't do it from the HDMI port, but my laptop dock does have a DisplayPort which supports the full resolution. So, I am wondering if a DisplyPort -> HDMI cable will do the trick.

Thanks


----------



## Abominator

I've got a B panel and overclocked it successfully to 100hz with my 680 a couple months back. Recently I installed some GPU drivers and I'm guessing it erased my old resolution settings so I went back to setup a new 100hz profile and then got an error message saying my monitor wasn't capable of that. So I went through the whole nvidia OC guide again, re-installed the driver yada yada and again was met with the message saying my monitor wasn't capable of 100hz.

Has the driver software for the Q270 not been updated for the current batch of nvidia drivers or is it completely incompatible? I'm guessing I may have to simply use an old GPU driver if I want to overclock?

Nevertheless even if it is possible to overclock it again I don't think I'll bother, I don't think I could even see a difference at 100hz and there where artifacts on the screen at 120hz in-game. I honestly felt like there was no difference and that I was lying to myself trying to make me believe that it was smoother.


----------



## lattyware

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *10terabyte*
> 
> I have skimmed this thread over and over, and searched, but haven't found an answer to this:
> Is the monitor (Q271 in my case) capable of displaying 2560x1440 over the HDMI connector?
> I know my laptop and desktop video cards won't do it from the HDMI port, but my laptop dock does have a DisplayPort which supports the full resolution. So, I am wondering if a DisplyPort -> HDMI cable will do the trick.
> Thanks


HDMI, like single-link DVI, maxes out at 1920x1200. It's not a case of the monitor supporting it or not, it's a case of the cable (or rather, the standard) not supporting it.


----------



## Carniflex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lattyware*
> 
> HDMI, like single-link DVI, maxes out at 1920x1200. It's not a case of the monitor supporting it or not, it's a case of the cable (or rather, the standard) not supporting it.


The HDMI 1.4 and 1.4a are supposed to support resolution up to 4K x 2K, however, I'm not sure if the Catleap is capable of supporting 1.4, it's not very widespread version of the HDMI yet.


----------



## 10terabyte

I've been seeing a lot of people claiming that HDMI doesn't support 2560x1440, but it's just not true. As the post above me mentioned, the protocol is capable, especially 1.4.

The question is, does Catleap's implementation of 1.4 do it.

I've ordered this, hoping it will do the trick. It claims to support "dual mode" up to 2560x1600 from a mini displayport. We'll see.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10246&cs_id=1024603&p_id=9476&seq=1&format=2


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Abominator*
> 
> I've got a B panel and overclocked it successfully to 100hz with my 680 a couple months back. Recently I installed some GPU drivers and I'm guessing it erased my old resolution settings so I went back to setup a new 100hz profile and then got an error message saying my monitor wasn't capable of that. So I went through the whole nvidia OC guide again, re-installed the driver yada yada and again was met with the message saying my monitor wasn't capable of 100hz.
> Has the driver software for the Q270 not been updated for the current batch of nvidia drivers or is it completely incompatible? I'm guessing I may have to simply use an old GPU driver if I want to overclock?
> Nevertheless even if it is possible to overclock it again I don't think I'll bother, I don't think I could even see a difference at 100hz and there where artifacts on the screen at 120hz in-game. I honestly felt like there was no difference and that I was lying to myself trying to make me believe that it was smoother.


Nvidia drivers limited max refresh rate a while back. I remember some guys in 120hz.net found a work-around.

To the people complaining about the horrible stand: 2703 I have isn't awesome, but in terms of keeping the monitor in place, it's doing a decent job.


----------



## Reaper2794

So can someone clarify whether there is a Yamakasi Catleap that is 1920 x 1080 or not?

I wanna keep my FPS running at a good res so I don't wanna go higher than 1080p.


----------



## Cavey00

Not really sure why you would be looking at something high res like the Catleap when you are only going to play at 1080p. There are plenty of 27" monitors out there that do 1080p. The point of the Catleap is the higher resolution. Are you just looking for an IPS monitor?


----------



## Reaper2794

Sorry I'm like not thinking straight

I don't mind the higher res. I just want one that's IPS with an HDMI or DVI

Where can I buy one for the best price that's reliable?

This monitors really confusing...

What does with or without glass mean? Glass .-.?


----------



## BoredErica

There's a smaller variety in Ebay.

Tempered glass is an extra bit of glass plastered over front of the monitor for looks.
Please search thread before asking more questions.


----------



## Reaper2794

Bro Im just looking for some quick answers alright, I dont wanna search through hundreds of pages, its confusing and theres lotta varieties

Im in the US

I wanna buy one without speakers. Ill buy one with glass if its not much more.

I need to know where I buy them reliably, the pricing, and what I need to buy additionally to the monitor to make sure it works for US.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Bro Im just looking for some quick answers alright, I dont wanna search through hundreds of pages, its confusing and theres lotta varieties
> Im in the US
> I wanna buy one without speakers. Ill buy one with glass if its not much more.
> I need to know where I buy them reliably, the pricing, and what I need to buy additionally to the monitor to make sure it works for US.


I found the answer you wanted on the second post for searching, if that's not fast, I don't know what is.

However, buying one with glass is worse simply because you have a chance of getting one with dust between the glass and the screen. The glass version is better if you are afraid of damaging the monitor or if it's in a high traffic area. I went with one without the glass because the screen looks just fine the way it is and I'm not worried about damaging it.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Bro Im just looking for some quick answers alright, I dont wanna search through hundreds of pages, its confusing and theres lotta varieties
> Im in the US
> I wanna buy one without speakers. Ill buy one with glass if its not much more.
> I need to know where I buy them reliably, the pricing, and what I need to buy additionally to the monitor to make sure it works for US.


There's a search function to search posts within the thread. Not trying to be a jerk, but in the future it will save both you and I a lot of time. Win-win.

I like the glass for aesthetics. But it has a chance of having dust trapped in there.


----------



## Reaper2794

Ok so without glass then

Im trying to understand the diff between the Q270, Q270 SE, Q2703

I see the SE is the one WITHOUT speakers, which is the one I want

But what is the 2703?

Also, how likely am I to get dead pixels? I don't want dead pixels...


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Ok so without glass then
> Im trying to understand the diff between the Q270, Q270 SE, Q2703
> I see the SE is the one WITHOUT speakers, which is the one I want
> But what is the 2703?
> Also, how likely am I to get dead pixels? I don't want dead pixels...


The q2703 is the same as the q270 se just has a newer cover around the panel. Looks better imo

No exact figures on dead pixels so start rolling the dice


----------



## Reaper2794

Ok. So Basically I wanna go for either Q270 or Q2703 without tempered glass, and an SE which means without speakers.

Correct?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Ok. So Basically I wanna go for either Q270 or Q2703 without tempered glass, and an SE which means without speakers.
> Correct?


Yes


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Ok so without glass then
> Im trying to understand the diff between the Q270, Q270 SE, Q2703
> I see the SE is the one WITHOUT speakers, which is the one I want
> But what is the 2703?
> Also, how likely am I to get dead pixels? I don't want dead pixels...


As Eternal said, to the best of our knowledge, the 2703 is identical to the Q270, but with a new stand and (I think) also a new bezel. However, no one has been able to confirm that the 2703 is using the exact same panel as the Q270 yet, and we won't kow for sure until someone opens it up and looks inside (but all signs point to it being the same panel).

Regarding the dead pixel issue, I ordered the cheapest version of the 2703 I could find on ebay and I received one with zero dead pixels and no backlight bleed.

To give you a brief review of my own experience buying a 2703 recently:

+Colours are amazing and vivid.
+1440p resolution is boss, both for games and for general use; I won't be going back to anything less.
+Very good panel uniformity; at the right angle I see almost zero bleed or anti-glare 'sheen'.
+Input lag feels very low; good for FPS games.
+Build quality of bezel is actually quite nice.

-The stand is ass; not only does it look cheap, but mine came broken; it won't tilt at all.
-The light at the bottom right of the monitor blinks when in standby mode... annoying.


----------



## BoredErica

2703 has a better stand. 1 dead pixel out of millions won't matter much. You're good.


----------



## Reaper2794

Ok thanks for the feedback.

So then without tempered glass, without speakers, this one seems like it's the right one for me right?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SEi-27-LED-S-IPS-2560X1440-WQHD-6ms-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/140853868709?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cb8b78a5

Also, if the stand is azz, what do I do? What kinda stands or whatever are available?


----------



## BoredErica

If you care that much about the stand, just buy a Crossover. Height adjustable stand that doesn't suck, and price difference is cheaper than buying a new stand.


----------



## Reaper2794

As long as it's not unbearable, Im fine with the stand.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> As long as it's not unbearable, Im fine with the stand.


It's not that bad. It depends on how flimsy your desk is, I suppose. My monitor doesn't jiggle up and done or do any ridiculous things. People that have a habit of moving their feet when they sit down might notice the monitor moving a little bit if they have a crappy desk. On my desk, the monitor stays perfectly still basically no matter what I do.

I think the problem for many is that you can't really adjust this monitor's height or tilt it, or swivel it. But it's not THAT big of a deal.

Keep in mind that my monitor is the 2703 version with the better stand. I can't vouch for the stands in non-2703 models.


----------



## Reaper2794

I ordered that Catleap Q270 :3


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> I ordered that Catleap Q270 :3


All right, tell us how it goes when you get it!


----------



## Reaper2794

By going into this panel, how can I benefit myself, and you guys?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> By going into this panel, how can I benefit myself, and you guys?


What panel?


----------



## Reaper2794

Sorry I mean monitor. I wanna open it up and give you guys info and add to the data we got gathered. Idk what opening it up tells us, other than what quality the panel is and if it can be OCd or not.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Sorry I mean monitor. I wanna open it up and give you guys info and add to the data we got gathered. Idk what opening it up tells us, other than what quality the panel is and if it can be OCd or not.


There is going to be a 99.9% chance where it won't be a 2b which can actually hit very high refresh rates. Changes are you'd be stuck at 60-75.

Although I do know that it'd be helpful if you vote in the polls whether you got a good monitor, a bad monitor, or DOA.


----------



## Reaper2794

Okay. Aren't these all A- panels btw?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Okay. Aren't these all A- panels btw?


Giant majority, yeah. I think there might be a few As lurking around, but not positive about that.


----------



## Reaper2794

Nothing less than A- I hope


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Nothing less than A- I hope


No need to hope, it won't be less than A-.


----------



## Reaper2794

Phew!


----------



## Dash8Q4

Only open it if you are going to get an arm installed. Youll most likely damage the bezel when you pry it. At least i did. But it doesnt matter for me because i dont look at my monitor from the sides so those little defects i made in the plastic arent noticeable. Only if i ran my fingers thru the outside of the bezel i will feel them. Good luck. Im sure youll like your catleap. Its amazing.

Alejandro.


----------



## Reaper2794

Also, what's the SE vs the SEi..?


----------



## BoredErica

SE = no speakers.


----------



## Reaper2794

So what's SEi...? With speakers .-.?

Cause it says here no speakers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SEi-27-LED-S-IPS-2560X1440-WQHD-6ms-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/140853868709


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> So what's SEi...? With speakers .-.?
> Cause it says here no speakers: http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SEi-27-LED-S-IPS-2560X1440-WQHD-6ms-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/140853868709


Maybe it's a typo. I've never heard of SEi, and English isn't their strong suit.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Its not a typo, the image on the page says the difference


Pixel policy


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> Its not a typo, the image on the page says the difference
> 
> Pixel policy


So what are the differences between the SE and SEi models?


----------



## Delphiwizard

Eh, as i said the pixel policy is different betwen SE and SEi

The info is right there on the pages
Q270 SE : 1 dead in central/5 dead pixel on the sides
Q270SEi: 2 dead in central/20 dead pixel on the sides


----------



## Reaper2794

Aah ok, sorry guys. Was at work / back from work last night, real tired. I think I finally know everything now haha.


----------



## BoredErica

That's dumb, they make it seem like a different monitor...


----------



## plum

There is a shortage of A- panels, that's why they've gone up in price and that's why there's these different gimped models. Some sellers just decide not to include that information though, so beware...


----------



## Reaper2794

Well I mean I bought it from green-sum so... /:


----------



## BoredErica

I prefer BCC now. Green-sum is just meh to me.


----------



## GrJohnso

Green-Sum has taken care of hundreds of folks without issue, including me, so I wouldn't worry about it. Every once in a while they seem to go without communications for a couple days, but other than that, they've been responsive when folks have had issues... As long as they have it in stock, expect delivery anywhere from 3-5 days out in the US. Quite fast without worrying about customs...

Enjoy!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrJohnso*
> 
> Green-Sum has taken care of hundreds of folks without issue, including me, so I wouldn't worry about it. Every once in a while they seem to go without communications for a couple days, but other than that, they've been responsive when folks have had issues... As long as they have it in stock, expect delivery anywhere from 3-5 days out in the US. Quite fast without worrying about customs...
> 
> Enjoy!


Greensum isn't terrible, but he isn't great either. Communication is part of the purchasing process. That guy sent me the wrong monitor type, and some have had problems with him. On the other hand, I've only heard good things about BCC so far.


----------



## Koehler

If green-sum was a bad seller then why would he have a 99.5%+ rating?

He is legit.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> If green-sum was a bad seller then why would he have a 99.5%+ rating?
> He is legit.


I never said he wasn't... I'm just saying, the guy annoys me and a few others.


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phyrewall*
> 
> Most likely I'll be doing a tear down and rebuild to inventory all parts and correct anything that may have shook loose in shipping. So yes, I'll be able to tell you the sticker.


Hey buddy, did you get your monitor yet?


----------



## Jayek

Guys, I need a quick question answered.

Should I buy a 27" Catleap 2703 for $340? Its a local deal so no tax or shipping and he said no dead pixels (hes coming over to show me first)

I know absolutely nothing about these monitors and the different types so any information is greatly apprecaited.

I have to let him know in 3 hours so fast responses are very much appreciated.

Thanks!


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayek*
> 
> Guys, I need a quick question answered.
> Should I buy a 27" Catleap 2703 for $340? Its a local deal so no tax or shipping and he said no dead pixels (hes coming over to show me first)
> I know absolutely nothing about these monitors and the different types so any information is greatly apprecaited.
> I have to let him know in 3 hours so fast responses are very much appreciated.
> Thanks!


I just bought that exact model and I'm very happy with mine. Just make sure your stand works.

It's a 1440p monitor, quality LG panel, Dual-Link DVI only, 6ms G2G response time, S-IPS, 60Hz. One of the newer Catleap versions, but pretty much the same as all the other Catleaps.


----------



## BoredErica

Unless you need the HDMI ports, get the one with only the DVI ports. I'd say go for it.


----------



## Quickstrike

My 2703 monitor should arrive tomorrow [Monday] - I hope.

Ordered from BCC on the 13th. Shipped on the 18th.
Not as fast as some other people have experienced.


----------



## Oraclese

Ordered Yamakasi 2703 from bigclothcraft last night. We`ll see how long it takes to get to me in central Canada.


----------



## kissenger

Good choice both of you! I'm very happy with my 2703.


----------



## Wampbit

Just ordered a 2703, in the UK, so it should hopefully arrive quite soon. Now I just need to wait for the next generation of video cards and upgrade to something that'll hold 60fps at this res...


----------



## BoredErica

That's not till March 13' or later.


----------



## AJCxZ0

Changes with nvidia-current 295.40-0ubuntu1.1 resulted in blank screen on previously working Catleap Q270 SE.

With assistance from you fine folks I got my Q270 SE working perfectly a long time ago with the following in my /etc/X11/xorg.conf:

Code:



Code:


----8<----
Section "Monitor"
    Identifier     "Monitor0"
    VendorName     "Yamakasi"
    ModelName      "Catleap Q270"
    DisplaySize     596    335
    HorizSync       30.0 - 80.0
    VertRefresh     55.0 - 95.0
    ModeLine "2560x1440" 241.5 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 -hsync +vsync
    Option         "DPMS"
EndSection

Section "Screen"
    Identifier     "Screen0"
    Device         "Device0"
    Monitor        "Monitor0"
    DefaultDepth    24
    Option         "UseEDID" "False"
    Option         "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"
    SubSection     "Display"
        Depth       24
        Modes      "2560x1440"
    EndSubSection
EndSection
----8<----

After trying various options, this was sufficient to work around the "corrupt" EDID for Xorg using the nividia (and nvidia-current) driver.

After the latest update to nvidia-current - 295.40-0ubuntu1.1 - on my Ubuntu 12.04 system, I got a blank screen. After uncommenting the following two options in the "Screen" section which I kept from my original testing

Code:



Code:


----8<----
    Option "NoBandWidthTest" "true"
    Option "ModeValidation" "AllowNon60hzmodesDFPModes, NoEDIDDFPMaxSizeCheck, NoVertRefreshCheck, NoHorizSyncCheck, NoDFPNativeResolutionCheck, NoMaxSizeCheck, NoMaxPClkCheck, NoEDIDModes"
----8<----

and restarting the lightdm service, the picture was restored. I made no effort to determine which of these many options made the critical difference.


----------



## Wampbit

As a small buying tip, it seems that BCC accepts offers slightly below the asking price. I took £10 off the asking price, and it was accepted. It's not much but £10 is £10...

How great is the need for AA with this monitor? It has a great DPI than a 23" 1080P, and I imagine you'd sit further away from it, so are high AA needs diminished?


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wampbit*
> 
> As a small buying tip, it seems that BCC accepts offers slightly below the asking price. I took £10 off the asking price, and it was accepted. It's not much but £10 is £10...
> How great is the need for AA with this monitor? It has a great DPI than a 23" 1080P, and I imagine you'd sit further away from it, so are high AA needs diminished?


IMO the answer is much less. You can still see jaggies with no AA, but it is far less ugly. Also a little bit of AA seems to go much further at 1440p than 1080p. I used to use FXAA high in BF3 at 1080p, but FXAA low at 1440p looks just as smooth.


----------



## Wampbit

I'm glad to hear this, a 580 might be alright after all then. Thanks for the info







.


----------



## Oraclese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Oraclese*
> 
> Ordered Yamakasi 2703 from bigclothcraft last night. We`ll see how long it takes to get to me in central Canada.


Got an email from BCC asking if they could makr the package as a gift, what value I wanted placed on it, and to confirm my GFX card model.

After I sent the info they said it would be about 1-3 days to inspect (I didn't order a pixel perfect, so I assume it's to make sure there are less than 15 dead pixels total), and then would be shipped.

Just thought I'd pass along info regarding the follow-ups BCC sends out after payment has actually been processed.


----------



## Reaper2794

Got my Q270 SEi from Green Sum :3

As for my questions:

I'm experience like some motion blurring when I turn in games like Battlefield 3. Is that dithering? How can I fix it? I have a Radeon HD 6950 1GB

How do I calibrate the color?

Where can I change the brightness settings?

And I see an audio in for my Q270 SEi but I thought this one didn't come with speakers?


----------



## kapar07

Some enlightenment is required from you guys, i bought my catleap about 3 months ago and this already happened



Can anything be done or am i screwed? thank you


----------



## hodgempls

You can try dealing with the person you bought it with....Usually you will have to pay for return shipping which is pricey. If you purchased a square trade warranty they will take care of you.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayek*
> 
> Guys, I need a quick question answered.
> Should I buy a 27" Catleap 2703 for $340? Its a local deal so no tax or shipping and he said no dead pixels (hes coming over to show me first)
> I know absolutely nothing about these monitors and the different types so any information is greatly apprecaited.
> I have to let him know in 3 hours so fast responses are very much appreciated.
> Thanks!


Yes. My friends (who play BF3 during their spare time) have said that the Yamakasi monitors are excellent. They have great color quality, great responsiveness and the fact that you can get a $1000 monitor for $300 to $400 is amazing.

Just make sure you buy it from a trustworthy seller like green-sum, bigclothcraft.


----------



## AGuy

I made an account just to talk about this monitor! I'm really interested in buying one but I have a few questions. And I'm sorry if these have been asked before - I'm sure they have been - but this is an 873 page thread so I'm hoping you don't mind if I don't read the entire thing and just my questions.

I'm seeing several models between the various brands that use this panel. Some have HDMI inputs, and I've read that translates into them having a scaler. What exactly does that mean and do for the image quality and responsiveness? Is that hardware scaling for lower resolutions so that they don't look quite as bad when blown up? I may want to hook up an Xbox 360 to the monitor if I get an HDMI model, or lowering some games to 1080p just to keep the framerate high, and I want to know how that resolution looks with and without the scaler/HDMI models.

I've also read models with an OSD/scaler have more lag. Is it really noticeable, or would it be about the same as my regular 60Hz TN panel? What about ones that don't have an OSD/scaler?

Lastly, who are the top sellers for these? I could go just go by their ratings but I'm curious if anyone stands out.

I'm going monitor crazy. I've been looking at Nvidia 3D Vision 2 monitors, 120Hz monitors - not a lot of choices there for 27" panels and I don't want to downgrade - and then considering IPS panels but being put off by their prices, and then getting frustrated and wondering if I should just stick with my HP 2709m. The dilemma of choice!


----------



## Jayek

How do I adjust color on the Yamakasi 2703? The buttons are there but they dont work.


----------



## Oraclese

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jayek*
> 
> How do I adjust color on the Yamakasi 2703? The buttons are there but they dont work.


Have to use your video card driver settings to adjust the color - the only thing you can adjust on the monitor itself is brightness (from what I know, mine shipped today!)


----------



## Quickstrike

Missed the delivery, last night.. by 20 minutes







.

Was on the truck at 10:52am.. attempted delivery at 8:10pm.

Now it looks like DHL is forwarding the package to another courier.


----------



## BPoole

Has anyone found a solution to fix the wobbly stand? I don't trust myself to go about disassembling it to make a wall mount, so I'm curious if anyone has found an alternative to fix the stand.


----------



## Reaper2794

Some questions bout my Q270 SEi

How do I properly and easily calibrate the color?

And I see an audio in for my Q270 SEi but I thought this one didn't come with speakers?

Does this monitor tilt?

One of my screws didn't go in all the way, any way to fix it?

Are there any affordable and cheap stands I could get? What are the risks?

Also, did anyone else have a problem with the power brick? I disconnected the power cable in the back once and the effing brick blew out on me!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> Some questions bout my Q270 SEi
> How do I properly and easily calibrate the color?
> And I see an audio in for my Q270 SEi but I thought this one didn't come with speakers?
> Does this monitor tilt?
> One of my screws didn't go in all the way, any way to fix it?
> Are there any affordable and cheap stands I could get? What are the risks?
> Also, did anyone else have a problem with the power brick? I disconnected the power cable in the back once and the effing brick blew out on me!


1. Check first post of this thread
2. No, shoulda gotton Crossover for that.
3. Don' t know
4. Monoprice. You need to open up the monitor a lil' bit, not too hard, others have done it. Again, if stand was a concern, Crossover was a better deal.
5. A few do, but that's cheaper to fix. Try to get one that uses less power.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AGuy*
> 
> I made an account just to talk about this monitor! I'm really interested in buying one but I have a few questions. And I'm sorry if these have been asked before - I'm sure they have been - but this is an 873 page thread so I'm hoping you don't mind if I don't read the entire thing and just my questions.
> I'm seeing several models between the various brands that use this panel. Some have HDMI inputs, and I've read that translates into them having a scaler. What exactly does that mean and do for the image quality and responsiveness? Is that hardware scaling for lower resolutions so that they don't look quite as bad when blown up? I may want to hook up an Xbox 360 to the monitor if I get an HDMI model, or lowering some games to 1080p just to keep the framerate high, and I want to know how that resolution looks with and without the scaler/HDMI models.
> I've also read models with an OSD/scaler have more lag. Is it really noticeable, or would it be about the same as my regular 60Hz TN panel? What about ones that don't have an OSD/scaler?
> Lastly, who are the top sellers for these? I could go just go by their ratings but I'm curious if anyone stands out.
> I'm going monitor crazy. I've been looking at Nvidia 3D Vision 2 monitors, 120Hz monitors - not a lot of choices there for 27" panels and I don't want to downgrade - and then considering IPS panels but being put off by their prices, and then getting frustrated and wondering if I should just stick with my HP 2709m. The dilemma of choice!


1. Basically, with HDMI and other ports, the input lag is (slightly) higher. If you're sure you won't need all that jazz, no point in paying more for slightly higher input lag.
2. Hardware scaling is useless for normal computer use because you can scale resolution via software by GPU. Unless you are using PS3 or whatnot.
3. I think the native resolution of whatever it is you are plugging in.
4. None of them have OSD. The lag really isn't that noticeable, it's just that we have some hardcore, very picky gamers around. (Which isn't a bad thing)
5. BCC > GreenSum IMO
6. You can get an Overlord, 120hz in 1440p IPS, but it will cost you more. You can try to snag a 120h PCB after buying a Catleap.

Good luck guys.


----------



## Reaper2794

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> 1. Check first post of this thread
> 2. No, shoulda gotton Crossover for that.
> 3. Don' t know
> 4. Monoprice. You need to open up the monitor a lil' bit, not too hard, others have done it. Again, if stand was a concern, Crossover was a better deal.
> 5. A few do, but that's cheaper to fix. Try to get one that uses less power.


1) Ok

2) What's Crossover? I don't want speakers, just wondering if the ones without speakers are still supposed to have the audio in port and the speaker hole

3) Ok

4) Monoprice for stands?

5) What kind of a power brick is compatible? I got some cheap sh-ty azz one that just broke on me. Plasticy and generic.


----------



## BoredErica

Crossover is a different brand that costs more. However, for those picky about stands, it's cheaper than buying a real stand, plus a Crossover has better build quality.

And yes, Monoprice.

You can look around on Ebay.


----------



## sieggylee

Hey guys. I see some of you are from the UK. I was wondering what power connector adapter you are using as its a Korean 2 pin one. Any links or name of shops would be great


----------



## Wampbit

Just noticed that the Catleap 2703 monitors have been increased in price. I grabbed mine for £195 a few days ago, the list price is now £253 from BCC.


----------



## YamiPrem

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sieggylee*
> 
> Hey guys. I see some of you are from the UK. I was wondering what power connector adapter you are using as its a Korean 2 pin one. Any links or name of shops would be great


Heya, I tried a basic shaver adapter, and it didn't work so I ditched the korean cable and used my old monitor cable. It's just the standard 3-pin slot ones you get with pretty much all electronics in UK.
Google '250v 10a power cord' and you'll see what they are. I haven't tried, but I wouldn't be surprised if a standard kettle power cord worked too. You can get kettle power cords from a pound-shop.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *YamiPrem*
> 
> Heya, I tried a basic shaver adapter, and it didn't work so I ditched the korean cable and used my old monitor cable. It's just the standard 3-pin slot ones you get with pretty much all electronics in UK.
> Google '250v 10a power cord' and you'll see what they are. I haven't tried, but I wouldn't be surprised if a standard kettle power cord worked too. You can get kettle power cords from a pound-shop.


Yes it is just a standard kettle lead you need, im using one right now.


----------



## kissenger

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wampbit*
> 
> Just noticed that the Catleap 2703 monitors have been increased in price. I grabbed mine for £195 a few days ago, the list price is now £253 from BCC.


Does anyone know why the price might have gone up?


----------



## BoredErica

Supply and demand.


----------



## Quickstrike

Well, I received my monitor last night.

No dead pixels.. lighting is very even.

Only problem is, I seem to be experiencing eye fatigue / headaches when I look at the monitor.

Never had this problem with my CRT monitor [my previous primary monitor before the Catleap], or the old LCDs they supply at the office.

Once I got the monitor, I turned down the brightness to a comfortable level.. Turned on ClearType.. Raised the font size in windows and Google Chrome.

Just find reading text to be straining. Even when it is enlarged to huge settings.

Guess I will give it a couple more days.


----------



## Quickstrike

double post..


----------



## BoredErica

Not straining for me.


----------



## whybother

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickstrike*
> 
> Well, I received my monitor last night.
> No dead pixels.. lighting is very even.
> Only problem is, I seem to be experiencing eye fatigue / headaches when I look at the monitor.
> Never had this problem with my CRT monitor [my previous primary monitor before the Catleap], or the old LCDs they supply at the office.
> Once I got the monitor, I turned down the brightness to a comfortable level.. Turned on ClearType.. Raised the font size in windows and Google Chrome.
> Just find reading text to be straining. Even when it is enlarged to huge settings.
> Guess I will give it a couple more days.


LED backlight (lots of blue light) + PWM dimming (lots of flicker) + Small Pixels (hard to see) + Large display (lots of light) = a nightmare for some


----------



## Gardenfan

I think I am doing something wrong. I Just received my two q270's. And an xfx 7979 ghz ed. One is hooked up to the DVI on the card, and the other is hooked to the hdmi to dvi adapter that came with the card as it only has one dvi output. I can not for the life of me get my second display to enable. The card sees it, but won't let me enable it. Tried switching ports between monitors and same deal just opposite.

Any ideas?


----------



## whybother

HDMI -> DVI = HDMI

HDMI will not do 2560x1440

You need an active DisplayPort -> DVI adapter (not the cheap ones. needs to have a usb connection).


----------



## gauchotodd

Yep, try that! ^


----------



## achievari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickstrike*
> 
> Only problem is, I seem to be experiencing eye fatigue / headaches when I look at the monitor.
> Never had this problem with my CRT monitor [my previous primary monitor before the Catleap], or the old LCDs they supply at the office.
> Once I got the monitor, I turned down the brightness to a comfortable level.. Turned on ClearType.. Raised the font size in windows and Google Chrome.
> Just find reading text to be straining. Even when it is enlarged to huge settings.
> Guess I will give it a couple more days.


Had the same problem with my Achieva. I turned down the brightness, imported a Color Calibration file and 2 days later it did get a lot better. Now almost 3 weeks later I still feel some strain on the eyes, but I have no problems working with the monitor for several hours a session. I hope I don't damage my eyes though, lol.


----------



## Wampbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kissenger*
> 
> Does anyone know why the price might have gone up?


Contacted BCC out of curiosity, they responded saying that there's a shortage of panels in S Korea currently.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wampbit*
> 
> Contacted BCC out of curiosity, they responded saying that there's a shortage of panels in S Korea currently.


There's a shortage because of supply and demand.


----------



## kissenger

Does anyone know how to fix a broken 2703 stand?


----------



## DarrylJohn

Got my 2703 for a tad over £200 delivered, albeit with a hefty £8.73 customs charge...







.

Upon opening the box, it was quite big!

Anyway, sold my 24" Benq HDBL on for £75 so got this for a decent sum. (I always work out like this, lol)

Turned it on, can't for the life of me see any dead pixels at all, not that I've looked extensively though.

Back light bleeding, is also very minimal - ill have to check again tonight when its proper dark, I think it's only roughly a little noticeable bottom right... and thats looking for it.

Overall I can't recommend it enough, however I don't really see much colour difference from my benq. Just a far bigger resolution.


----------



## Quickstrike

Have you guys had any luck returning a perfectly good monitor back to the seller?

According to BCC's ebay listing:

"If you are unsatisfied with our item, we will guarantee full refund excluding shipping charge.
-> Return charge is own of buyer"

I wonder if I am better off shipping it back to BCC, or trying to sell it locally.

It looks amazing, but I just can't get over the discomfort I feel while looking at it. Do you think the low frequency PWM is the main culprit? Like I said, I really like the size and resolution of this monitor, not sure if going with a 27" ccfl monitor would solve my problems.


----------



## Wampbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickstrike*
> 
> Have you guys had any luck returning a perfectly good monitor back to the seller?
> According to BCC's ebay listing:
> "If you are unsatisfied with our item, we will guarantee full refund excluding shipping charge.
> -> Return charge is own of buyer"
> I wonder if I am better off shipping it back to BCC, or trying to sell it locally.
> It looks amazing, but I just can't get over the discomfort I feel while looking at it. Do you think the low frequency PWM is the main culprit? Like I said, I really like the size and resolution of this monitor, not sure if going with a 27" ccfl monitor would solve my problems.


Check how much shipping is to S-Korea; I don't know how many people are interested in buying/selling on this forum, but given that the monitors just increased in price, you could probably fetch a spot more for selling it here. If you could get your money back plus a bit extra for the freight to an interested party in your country, whilst keeping it below the new higher prices, it would seem like an easier path to follow to me.


----------



## kissenger

Yeah, you will be way better off selling it on yourself rather than sending it back to the seller. I would advertise it here and on other similar message boards. You will sell it easy because people are weary of customs fees.


----------



## happyguy936

Anybody know where to find a guide/link to debezel and mount these monitors?


----------



## Wampbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *happyguy936*
> 
> Anybody know where to find a guide/link to debezel and mount these monitors?


Have a look at the opening post...


----------



## Wombat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cleansparks*
> 
> I spent a lot of time trying to get this to work with Fedora Core 16 x86_64, so I though I would post what finally worked in case it helps someone. Fedora kept reporting that the EDID was bad and had a bad checksum and the EDID values wouldn't get loaded.
> First, I installed the rpmfusion nvidia drivers and disabled the nouveau drivers. Here are a couple links that helped with that. Step 5 on the second link was helpful in disabling nouveau drivers.
> http://rpmfusion.org/Howto/nVidia#GeForce_6_and_newer
> http://www.if-not-true-then-false.com/2011/fedora-16-nvidia-drivers-install-guide-disable-nouveau-driver/
> Here is a portion of my /etc/X11/xorg.conf and I bolded what I think are the important lines:
> Section "Screen"
> Identifier "Screen0"
> Device "Device0"
> Monitor "Monitor0"
> DefaultDepth 24
> *Option "UseEdid" "False"*
> *Option "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"*
> SubSection "Display"
> Depth 24
> *Modes "2560x1440"*
> EndSubSection
> EndSection
> Section "Device"
> Identifier "Device0"
> Driver "nvidia"
> VendorName "NVIDIA Corporation"
> EndSection
> Section "Monitor"
> Identifier "Monitor0"
> VendorName "Unknown"
> ModelName "Unknown"
> HorizSync 28.0 - 88.9
> VertRefresh 43.0 - 72.0
> *ModeLine "2560x1440" 241.5 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 -hsync +vsync*
> Option "DPMS"
> EndSection
> I posted my entire xorg.conf here: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/12546716/xorg.conf


Hi cleansparks,

I'm trying get nVidia working on Fedora 17/64. Have you used this on Fedora 17? Do you have working nvidia drivers running your Catleap? This Catleap is a great monitor but its driving me nuts! I get better picture quality with nouveau than I do with nvidia cause I can only boot into nvidia at 640 resolution!

Thanks for posting your full xorg.conf too. So many people don't bother for some reason but its good to have.


----------



## nguyeken

got my catleap 2703 3 days ago, a tiny dust, scratch on the temper glass, and alot of stuck pixel + back light bleeding. Not sure its only mine but i notice the white has a little tinted blue. hopefully i get a better replacement

here are a few pictures


----------



## Quickstrike

So, with the 2703 model, the tempered glass goes over the bezel?

I ordered the tempered glass model from BCC, but it looks like I received the regular version.

Want to make sure I am listing the right item in my for sale ad.

Thanks.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quickstrike*
> 
> So, with the 2703 model, the tempered glass goes over the bezel?
> 
> I ordered the tempered glass model from BCC, but it looks like I received the regular version.
> 
> Want to make sure I am listing the right item in my for sale ad.
> 
> Thanks.


Negative. The glass is under the bezel.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## BoredErica

! The glass is under the bezel ?

What is the monitor like WITHOUT tempered glass then?


----------



## ImToeKnee

Alright guys, I need your help. I'm planning on getting a Catleap and i'm a little lost.

Which Catleap model should i get to overclock @120hz? (No speakers, glossy screen)

Also, which seller should i buy from? Worth it to buy the Pixel Perfect version?

Can i overclock with a GTX 670? Anybody here that has a 670 overclocked?

Thanks peeps


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImToeKnee*
> 
> Alright guys, I need your help. I'm planning on getting a Catleap and i'm a little lost.
> Which Catleap model should i get to overclock @120hz? (No speakers, glossy screen)
> Also, which seller should i buy from? Worth it to buy the Pixel Perfect version?
> Can i overclock with a GTX 670? Anybody here that has a 670 overclocked?
> Thanks peeps


If you use the thread search function... and looked at the first post...


----------



## timewalk1

I have search on google and this thread but can't find anyone with the same problem...

I got a Macbook pro 15 inch early 2011

Processor 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory 4 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
Graphics Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB
Software OS X 10.8.2 (12C60)

I got Apples own dvi adapter and a dual link dvi cable.

But when I connect the dvi cable to my Yamakasi Q270 my computer shuts down and says there have been an error..
I have tried and using another dual dvi cable, same thing happens.
I have tried another screen other then my Yamakasi and then it works perfectly.

I'm no computer expert.. but to me it seems like the computer cant handle the data from the screen and then shuts down?

Everyone seems to talk so good about this screen.. I'm so frustrated..

I appreciate any help i can get









Sorry if my english is bad, it's not my native language


----------



## Clovertail100

Try using the monitor with a different system. Then, you can isolate the issue to either the monitor or the system.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *timewalk1*
> 
> I have search on google and this thread but can't find anyone with the same problem...
> I got a Macbook pro 15 inch early 2011
> Processor 2.2 GHz Intel Core i7
> Memory 4 GB 1333 MHz DDR3
> Graphics Intel HD Graphics 3000 384 MB
> Software OS X 10.8.2 (12C60)
> I got Apples own dvi adapter and a dual link dvi cable.
> But when I connect the dvi cable to my Yamakasi Q270 my computer shuts down and says there have been an error..
> I have tried and using another dual dvi cable, same thing happens.
> I have tried another screen other then my Yamakasi and then it works perfectly.
> I'm no computer expert.. but to me it seems like the computer cant handle the data from the screen and then shuts down?
> Everyone seems to talk so good about this screen.. I'm so frustrated..
> I appreciate any help i can get
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if my english is bad, it's not my native language


If you checked the advertisement before buying then it states that they dont wok with onboard graphics e.g. intel HD3000


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> ! The glass is under the bezel ?
> What is the monitor like WITHOUT tempered glass then?


There are no 2703's without glass AFAIK. The catleaps without glass are still glossy, but maybe not quite as reflective. I only have the 2703 personally and off it's like a mirror (almost). Once powered on I don't notice any reflections though.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> There are no 2703's without glass AFAIK. The catleaps without glass are still glossy, but maybe not quite as reflective. I only have the 2703 personally and off it's like a mirror (almost). Once powered on I don't notice any reflections though.


I know they are still glossy, but I'm trying to find a major difference between those two models. If I have tempered glass after all, I guess I can just clean with Windex.


----------



## Cavey00

Yes, and of course if you have small children that like to poke the screen you are in the clear! I can't even tell the glass is there on mine. Because it's behind the bezel I imagine there is little to no space between it and the actual screen. The ones that have glass on top of the bezel I would imagine would be more prone to getting dust in there, or if there is dust in there I would imagine that it's much easier to see with that pocket of air there. Just my thoughts, not my experience though.


----------



## Quickstrike

Well, sold my monitor today.

Thanks everyone for your help.

I am jealous of all the people out there that can use this monitor without experiencing eye fatigue.

It really did look incredible... the monitor I received was flawless. Not a speck of dust, a single dead pixel, backlight bleed was negligible.
Really wish it was compatible with my body







.


----------



## BoredErica

Weird. Are you sure it wasn't the reflection of the screen getting you? I can get eye strain if I keep looking at part of the screen reflecting the light. If I turn off the light, it's much better.


----------



## Quickstrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Weird. Are you sure it wasn't the reflection of the screen getting you? I can get eye strain if I keep looking at part of the screen reflecting the light. If I turn off the light, it's much better.


I'm sure.

Very little stray light enters my room during the day time.. and it gets dark outside early in the evening where I live.

I found myself going to bed a couple hours earlier than I usually do because my eyes were so sore after continued use.


----------



## happyguy936

Hey guys just checking that this graphics card will be able to run 3x Catleaps with an active dp to dvi-d adaptor
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=193_1309&products_id=19553
ASUS Radeon HD7970 DirectCU II TOP 3GB


----------



## cooler2442

Which ebay seller has the best return policy? Aka they pay for return shipping if there are to many dead pixels or big issues?


----------



## coolxal

Anyone order from BBC and then he just randomly switches from DHL to UPS for shipping?


----------



## Taylormade

Im using a new Dell XPS & just had the new Yamakasi precision 2703 arrive. All I'm getting is a black screen with the red light on the lower right panel. Any ideas how to get this up & running. Im running from the DVI point.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Taylormade*
> 
> Im using a new Dell XPS & just had the new Yamakasi precision 2703 arrive. All I'm getting is a black screen with the red light on the lower right panel. Any ideas how to get this up & running. Im running from the DVI point.


We are going to need a lot more info than that, like what card you are running. Did you make sure to use the Dual Link DVI port?


----------



## Taylormade

Thanks for the quick reply.

Running the Intel HD 3000 graphics display. Did some research and was told that it would support / run the 2560 x 1440 through the display port adaptor.

Was looking at using a mini display port to DVI-D cable - there is only one input on this screen. Currently using a "mac"mini display to dvi-d adapter and then onto the standard DVI-D cable.

The screen power button just blinks blue, and the screen remains blank

- have voltmeter tested the PSU on the screen and it is getting 24 v to it
have tried a different DVI-D cable

just not a different dedicated DVI-D to mini display port cable

does this require an active adaptor ?

thanks again for your help on this


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> Which ebay seller has the best return policy? Aka they pay for return shipping if there are to many dead pixels or big issues?


pallascospi or bigclothcraft I think.


----------



## Wampbit

Just received my 2703 from BCC; monitor seems to be in perfect condition. I haven't noticed any deal pixels so far, and there isn't any obvious dust beneath the tempered glass. I'll give it a few days, see if I spot any issues, but so far it's looking good. The monitor definitely needs some calibration before it looks good, out of the box the green levels are completely wrong. I took the recommended ICC profile from the front page, which in itself goes a long way, then I just adjusted it a bit more to suit my panel. The tempered glass is very reflective, which is a bit of a pain if you have a backlit keyboard - I can see my keyboard on the bottom of my screen. Although I'm yet to position the monitor nicely on my desk, just testing it, so I expect to get rid of most of the reflections via positioning. It should be noted that the inner rim of the bezel is reflective. This means that the task bar at the bottom of the screen (including any icons for active applications/pinned applications) are reflected off the plastic. I find this really annoying, and will most likely try to grind the surface such that light diffuses. Backlight bleeding is as reported, a small amount in the bottom right corner. I'll need to use the monitor a bit more before I can say whether or not it's significant. Right now it's day and it's not imposing, but you can notice it if you're looking with a critical eye.

For the price I'm more than happy with my monitor.


----------



## breezytictac

I hope I'm replying to this correctly

Hey, I just made an account because I had a question. I've been looking at thes 2560x1440 monitors for awhile and I finally decided to buy one, but I have a quick question.

Whats the difference between this monitor
http://www.microcenter.com/product/384780/EQ276W_27_IPS_LED_Monitor

and

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SEi-27-LED-S-IPS-2560X1440-WQHD-6ms-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/140853868709?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cb8b78a5

I wouldn't mind paying the extra 70ish dollars for a limited warranty and pretty much a perfect monitor, if they are pretty much the same.

So whats your opinion?


----------



## BoredErica

How do you know that the Auria will be perfect?


----------



## breezytictac

I was reading reviews on microcenter and people who had dead pixels/bleeding just exchanged it for another.
Plus its microcenter and I live near one.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wampbit*
> 
> Just received my 2703 from BCC; monitor seems to be in perfect condition. I haven't noticed any deal pixels so far, and there isn't any obvious dust beneath the tempered glass. I'll give it a few days, see if I spot any issues, but so far it's looking good. The monitor definitely needs some calibration before it looks good, out of the box the green levels are completely wrong. I took the recommended ICC profile from the front page, which in itself goes a long way, then I just adjusted it a bit more to suit my panel. The tempered glass is very reflective, which is a bit of a pain if you have a backlit keyboard - I can see my keyboard on the bottom of my screen. Although I'm yet to position the monitor nicely on my desk, just testing it, so I expect to get rid of most of the reflections via positioning. It should be noted that the inner rim of the bezel is reflective. This means that the task bar at the bottom of the screen (including any icons for active applications/pinned applications) are reflected off the plastic. I find this really annoying, and will most likely try to grind the surface such that light diffuses. Backlight bleeding is as reported, a small amount in the bottom right corner. I'll need to use the monitor a bit more before I can say whether or not it's significant. Right now it's day and it's not imposing, but you can notice it if you're looking with a critical eye.
> For the price I'm more than happy with my monitor.


Nice. Yeah the Korean monitors have glossy screens but I think it's better than Dell's annoying AG coating.


----------



## BoredErica

If you're going to spend so much money on a good monitor, might as well get glossy surface and adjust the lighting in your room.


----------



## kissenger

Quick question.

I'm going to be without a dedicated GPU for a few days and my motherboard will only output VGA and HDMI. I know the Catleap is DL-DVI, but is there anyway I can get it to receive a VGA signal if I use a VGA to DVI adapter?

I'm thinking if I set the monitor to output at 1080p, then I might be able to get a signal?


----------



## EvilTeddy

Long time casual reader of OCN, but never actually created an account to post!

I've been following this thread for a while (2 months?) and finally took the leap on Tuesday (Australian time, over 72 hours ago) on buying a Catleap monitor from "Dream Seller". I haven't heard word if he has shipped it as yet as he has posted nothing on eBay nor supplied a shipping number, nor replied to my basic email asking if it'd been sent! I know he's one of the recommended, but is his responses usually this delayed? I just want the new screen!









I'll try not to ask any silly questions that have been asked a billion times in this thread (I'm not going to ask what the difference between the monitors is or what the likelyhood of OCing this to 120hz!), but why wouldn't the big brands (Samsung, LG, Benq etc) develop and release a 27"+ IPS with 120hz, surely this is a much easier feat than some of their previous developments? From this thread, there's obviously a huge market for it! I mean, all it took at one point was a simple change of the PCB panel to get it to overclock...

Also @Scribby, thanks for the fantastic thread, there's so much useful info in it for almost all situations!


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kissenger*
> 
> Quick question.
> I'm going to be without a dedicated GPU for a few days and my motherboard will only output VGA and HDMI. I know the Catleap is DL-DVI, but is there anyway I can get it to receive a VGA signal if I use a VGA to DVI adapter?
> I'm thinking if I set the monitor to output at 1080p, then I might be able to get a signal?


Double no. For one, your onboard video is most likely not going to support this monitor. Second, VGA has no hope of providing a signal (it's analog) and HDMI to DVI-D doesn't exist as far as I know. Now if you have one of the multi input monitors you might be able to use the HDMI, but it won't be full resolution.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilTeddy*
> 
> Long time casual reader of OCN, but never actually created an account to post!
> I've been following this thread for a while (2 months?) and finally took the leap on Tuesday (Australian time, over 72 hours ago) on buying a Catleap monitor from "Dream Seller". I haven't heard word if he has shipped it as yet as he has posted nothing on eBay nor supplied a shipping number, nor replied to my basic email asking if it'd been sent! I know he's one of the recommended, but is his responses usually this delayed? I just want the new screen!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try not to ask any silly questions that have been asked a billion times in this thread (I'm not going to ask what the difference between the monitors is or what the likelyhood of OCing this to 120hz!), but why wouldn't the big brands (Samsung, LG, Benq etc) develop and release a 27"+ IPS with 120hz, surely this is a much easier feat than some of their previous developments? From this thread, there's obviously a huge market for it! I mean, all it took at one point was a simple change of the PCB panel to get it to overclock...
> Also @Scribby, thanks for the fantastic thread, there's so much useful info in it for almost all situations!


Seems you ordered on the Mid-Autumn festival day 1! There's 3 of them in a row according to their calendar. So in other words, you got delayed for a national holiday. It happens...








Edit: I'm a total idiot and read the calendar wrong. That was last month. No idea what the hold up is. Sorry


----------



## EvilTeddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Seems you ordered on the Mid-Autumn festival day 1! There's 3 of them in a row according to their calendar. So in other words, you got delayed for a national holiday. It happens...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: I'm a total idiot and read the calendar wrong. That was last month. No idea what the hold up is. Sorry


All good, it's a long weekend here which would have been nice to have a new monitor to test and play around on but such is life! Hopefully I'll get it when I return to work next week! Just wish there was an update, as from what I was reading in this thread, the posting and delivery times were incredibly quick!


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilTeddy*
> 
> All good, it's a long weekend here which would have been nice to have a new monitor to test and play around on but such is life! Hopefully I'll get it when I return to work next week! Just wish there was an update, as from what I was reading in this thread, the posting and delivery times were incredibly quick!


Mine was from BCC and he was checking it I guess, so there was a few days of delay. Mine still wasn't perfect, but the flaw it has is minor and only apparent in certain situations. Once it shipped, it was a one day thing. The tracking number on ebay didn't reflect the correct information until quite some time after I got my monitor. If you have a tracking number, go directly to the shipping company's site and plug it in there.


----------



## EvilTeddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Mine was from BCC and he was checking it I guess, so there was a few days of delay. Mine still wasn't perfect, but the flaw it has is minor and only apparent in certain situations. Once it shipped, it was a one day thing. The tracking number on ebay didn't reflect the correct information until quite some time after I got my monitor. If you have a tracking number, go directly to the shipping company's site and plug it in there.


Yeah i went for the cheaper option (White 270 SE), as i didn't want the glass due to glare in my office and dream seller was the cheapest option (with a decent dead pixel policy too!). I know he received the money, as he left feedback within a couple of hours after the purchase but there's been no update since. That's ok, I'll just sit on my hands and wait.


----------



## EvilTeddy

Update: Finally received this on ebay:
Quote:


> Hi
> 
> Thank you for your message.
> 
> we are sorry for late shipping.
> 
> we are testing pixel all the monitors before shipping. It take more time at this time.
> 
> could you please wait a little more ? we will send it as soon as possible.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> Best Regards
> 
> - dream-seller


My mind is now at ease, although I'll likely now get one with 4 dead pixels because he's 'checking' them, but i just won't go looking for them!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilTeddy*
> 
> Yeah i went for the cheaper option (White 270 SE), as i didn't want the glass due to glare in my office and dream seller was the cheapest option (with a decent dead pixel policy too!). I know he received the money, as he left feedback within a couple of hours after the purchase but there's been no update since. That's ok, I'll just sit on my hands and wait.


It's glossy either way, doesn't really make much of a difference...


----------



## iARDAs

Hey folks. I am looking for 2 monitors next to my Yamakasi that will be in portrait mode.

What kind of monitors should I look into?

Anyone have such a setup? 1 Yamakasi and 2 different montiros which are in portrait?


----------



## racerror

My Catleap 2703 is DEAD.

The backlight is on with no picture.

I have two Catleaps, the other one is the Q270 SE and it works perfectly.

Video card is GeForce 430 GT. I am using the DVI-D cable that came with it. I am running Ubuntu 12.10 with latest nvidia drivers from Ubuntu nvidia PPA.

I have tried swapping the cables with the known working monitor. Changing ports on the GPU. Using the power brick from the working catleap.

I even opened up the monitor, using the instructions from the OP's removing the stand FAQ and reseated all the cables.

I ordered it from bigclothcraft in August. It worked fine until recently. I contacted bigclothcraft and received one response asking for more details on the issue, then no response for 5 days.

Any help would be great. I would love suggestions for getting warranty replacement or DIY fix or other troubleshooting ideas or any US repair shop that could fix it...

I have pictures of the board and the LG panel model details, if that helps anyone.

Thanks.

*EDIT*

The panel is LG LM270WQ1 (SD) (B3).
On the PCB I see D-910, REV 1.1.


----------



## djriful

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *racerror*
> 
> My Catleap 2703 is DEAD.
> The backlight is on with no picture.
> I have two Catleaps, the other one is the Q270 SE and it works perfectly.
> Video card is GeForce 430 GT. I am using the DVI-D cable that came with it. I am running Ubuntu 12.10 with latest nvidia drivers from Ubuntu nvidia PPA.
> I have tried swapping the cables with the known working monitor. Changing ports on the GPU. Using the power brick from the working catleap.
> I even opened up the monitor, using the instructions from the OP's removing the stand FAQ and reseated all the cables.
> I ordered it from bigclothcraft in August. It worked fine until recently. I contacted bigclothcraft and received one response asking for more details on the issue, then no response for 5 days.
> Any help would be great. I would love suggestions for getting warranty replacement or DIY fix or other troubleshooting ideas or any US repair shop that could fix it...
> I have pictures of the board and the LG panel model details, if that helps anyone.
> 
> Thanks.


Ask the Seller if they have any spare PCB they can sell you.


----------



## Wampbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> If you're going to spend so much money on a good monitor, might as well get glossy surface and adjust the lighting in your room.


That's not easy with computer, mouse and keyboard LEDs. Also I'd hardly call this spending much money







.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wampbit*
> 
> That's not easy with computer, mouse and keyboard LEDs. Also I'd hardly call this spending much money
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I think you over-estimate how reflective this is. I have a tempered glass model, and an Abyssus. Your problems would be the lighting, like light bulbs, not your lit peripherals.


----------



## kissenger

The tempered glass is a problem if you have sunlight coming in or whatever, but when it really matters - i.e. when gaming - most people will have the lights off anyway, in which case it's not reflective at all.


----------



## EvilTeddy

Quote:


> hi again.
> 
> I'm sorry to say that we tested but there are no right pixel for selling and was informed that no more stock .
> 
> If you don't mind we recommend other seller has this good .
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-White-LED-27-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-/140853514998?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20cb8612f6
> 
> Of course we will refund your whole money.
> 
> I sincerely apologize for any inconvenience.
> 
> Thank you
> Best Regards
> 
> - dream-seller


GG and QQ!! How can they not have an acceptable monitor, when on their eBay page it says that 10+ are still available (btw, the page is still there even after this message was received... Isn't that against eBays T&C?)

*sigh* Time for plan B!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvilTeddy*
> 
> GG and QQ!! How can they not have an acceptable monitor, when on their eBay page it says that 10+ are still available (btw, the page is still there even after this message was received... Isn't that against eBays T&C?)
> *sigh* Time for plan B!


Just try another seller or wait.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kissenger*
> 
> The tempered glass is a problem if you have sunlight coming in or whatever, but when it really matters - i.e. when gaming - most people will have the lights off anyway, in which case it's not reflective at all.


So what exactly is tempered glass?


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> So what exactly is tempered glass?


Tempered glass is supposedly treated/manufactured using chemicals to strengthen it. In the case of these monitors, it's placed on top of, or sometimes within the actual structure of the bezel. The reason is for protection, since a these monitors are used primarily in 'Bangs', or Korean gaming lounges, and it helps keep the LCD display underneath protected.


----------



## BoredErica

So once again, get some blinds or something. Not trying to be funny, get some. Find an easy way to cover up sunlight, it's worth the 10 minutes you spend on that.


----------



## Wampbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think you over-estimate how reflective this is. I have a tempered glass model, and an Abyssus. Your problems would be the lighting, like light bulbs, not your lit peripherals.


I can see my keyboard entirely in the monitor, every key







. Mind you I'm more or less used to it, but it is still quite reflective.


----------



## atlblackops

Pulled the trigger this morning on a Catleap Q270SE from Ebay Seller Green-sum. The plethora of positive and informative feedback in this forum heavily influenced my decision. I'm supposed to get mine next week, I'll let you know how it goes.


----------



## IronDoq

Hey all, I'm thinking about going surround with three of the 270s, purchasing two more to compliment the single I currently own. I want me 670 4gbs to be able to stretch their legs a little bit, although there is one problem, if you can call it that







. If I would choose to go surround, it would be in portrait mode, and that means I would need a new stand/s. Would you recommend me picking up a single stand with tipple support, or three individuals? Also, how is the game support for 4320x2560?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *IronDoq*
> 
> Hey all, I'm thinking about going surround with three of the 270s, purchasing two more to compliment the single I currently own. I want me 670 4gbs to be able to stretch their legs a little bit, although there is one problem, if you can call it that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . If I would choose to go surround, it would be in portrait mode, and that means I would need a new stand/s. Would you recommend me picking up a single stand with tipple support, or three individuals? Also, how is the game support for 4320x2560?


With the size they are ive had problems finding one big enough for three in portrait, but im in the UK and my options are limited.
If i were going to buy stands i would buy three individuals, but im going to fabricate my own triple stand once ive debezeled mine and ordered the last one.


----------



## id22

Hey guys, I'm interested in buying the catleap, but I'm not entirely sure what is what. The above link with the green-sum one looks good to me but whats the difference between the catleap Q270 SE and the catleap Q270SEi . I also see some of the other options in his store like the [Perfect Pixel] one that is about $500 and im assuming that is one guaranteed without any dead pixels? I really want a monitor without dead pixels ideally and I'm not sure how much I can live with dead pixels. I would want to get the white Q270, but I think as long as people don't touch the monitor the non-tempered glass should be fine? I would also want the monitor without speakers as well. Can someone lead me towards the right direction? Thanks in advance!

*Edit*
How can you tell the catleaps are 2B or not too????


----------



## IronDoq

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> With the size they are ive had problems finding one big enough for three in portrait, but im in the UK and my options are limited.
> If i were going to buy stands i would buy three individuals, but im going to fabricate my own triple stand once ive debezeled mine and ordered the last one.


Oooooh do document that! Would be very interested in seeing how they would look in surround with no bezel... my god that would be beautiful! Still open to any other suggestions on stand/s, all suggestions are appreciated!


----------



## EvilTeddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id22*
> 
> Hey guys, I'm interested in buying the catleap, but I'm not entirely sure what is what. The above link with the green-sum one looks good to me but whats the difference between the catleap Q270 SE and the catleap Q270SEi . I also see some of the other options in his store like the [Perfect Pixel] one that is about $500 and im assuming that is one guaranteed without any dead pixels? I really want a monitor without dead pixels ideally and I'm not sure how much I can live with dead pixels. I would want to get the white Q270, but I think as long as people don't touch the monitor the non-tempered glass should be fine? I would also want the monitor without speakers as well. Can someone lead me towards the right direction? Thanks in advance!
> *Edit*
> How can you tell the catleaps are 2B or not too????


The 270 SE is the model without speakers. The 270 SEi is the exact same model, but according to the post, it allows a higher amount of pixels to fail before it's deemed faulty.

To know if you have a 2B model, anything after Feb/March this year has pretty much been a non 2B. You can get the PCB cards/chips (not sure what they are called!







), hopefully by the end of the year from the sounds of things. Non-tempered glass should be fine for most people.


----------



## id22

Thanks EvilTeddy. I just saw that there are alternatives of SHiman and the crossover? any particular reason why the catleap is better than the other two?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id22*
> 
> Thanks EvilTeddy. I just saw that there are alternatives of SHiman and the crossover? any particular reason why the catleap is better than the other two?


None really, apart from the stand and price tag its all just personal preference.


----------



## racerror

Is a new PCB the only solution to my back-light only Catleap?

If so, where do I get this new PCB? I don't care about 100hz, I just want a functioning monitor. Source? Anyone selling?


----------



## id22

I'm looking at crossovers and catleaps on ebay and they're basically the same price.

white catleap Q270

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-White-LED-27-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-/140853514998?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20cb8612f6

white crossover

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CROSSOVER-27Q-LED-White-27-2560x1440-QHD-DVI-D-LG-S-IPS-Monitor-/110914577586?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d30624b2#shId

=(


----------



## deathlikeeric

im loking into a catleap 27" and was wondering why is the Q270SE priced higher than the Q270SEi if the SEi allows a higher amount of pixels to fail before it's deemed faulty? and which would you recommend the SE or SEi


----------



## EvilTeddy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathlikeeric*
> 
> im loking into a catleap 27" and was wondering why is the Q270SE priced higher than the Q270SEi if the SEi allows a higher amount of pixels to fail before it's deemed faulty? and which would you recommend the SE or SEi


Reread what you've typed and it might make sense







The SE (on a whole) has a warranty return policy of: 1 dead in the centre, 5 dead around the outside; whilst the SEi has the policy of: 2 dead in the centre and up to 20 around the side before it's deemed faulty (which is a very crap policy!)

I really wish i could have gotten my White 270SE







Oh well! All of the monitors are pretty much the same, except for the stands/bezel and the PCB but since the OC models are rare now, they're pretty much on par! I'm a little surprised that there hasn't been many comments about the "First FSM-270YG", it's a very nice looking monitor!


----------



## BoredErica

From a poll, Shimians have highest failure rate, semi decent stand. Crossover has a great stand, height adjustable, portrait mode, etc, higher build quality, higher price tag.

They all look different, too. If you can get a Crossover for the same price, take that one.


----------



## id22

thanks darkwizzie... that's what i actually thought, but last night i pulled the trigger and just got the catleap thinking maybe there will be someway to OC it later. Also, there seems to be a lot of trust with green-sum so I'm hoping it goes well and I receive a dead pixel-free monitor because I didn't get the perfect pixel verison =/ . It was weird when I was looking at crossovers and catleaps, mainly due to the fact that they are about the same price on ebay right now. I also wanted to buy the LX Desk Mount by ergotron(http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00358RIRC/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=&seller=) with the monitor i get and there is a guide at the front of this forum so I was just going to follow that.

Hopefully I don't regret my choice with the catleap =(


----------



## SammichThyme

Good to see the club is still kicking. My Catleap is yet to fail on me after 5 months and am considering to upgrade to two more once I get a bigger desk!


----------



## PTCB

An update on a purchase from BCC:

I have bought two monitors (Q270) from them. The second one came with 5 dead pixels which is well within the dead pixel policy. However, 4 of those pixels are grouped together to form a bigger dot (refer to the photo).

The group of four dead pixels, which looks like "-_-" by the way:


The other dead pixel:


Their locations: four in the center (zone 5) and one on the left (zone 4).


So I emailed them, explaining the problem. They arranged a free return shipping from NZL to KOR. But by the time they received the monitor, the Catleap was out of stock. I had to wait for a new shipment so I asked them if it was possible to have a Perfect Pixel as a replacement free of charge, just to make up for the lost time. They then agreed to upgrade my monitor. But because of the low supply, Witech have decided to stop offering the PP panels (according to BCC). So, I opted for a regular Q270SE which came in in perfect condition with no stuck/dead pixels or backlight bleeding.

I highly recommend this seller to all due to their great customer service. Even though, sometimes the communication seemed a bit slow, but overall it was a good experience.


----------



## Cavey00

I know I went on and on about it earlier when I bought mine, but BCC really did seem to try to make things right when they went sideways. Glad to see they are keeping that up.


----------



## Demented

Hope I don't jinx myself, but my Catleap has been running awesome since March. No dead pixels, no backlight bleed. Extremely minor yellow tint on the bottom section, but no one can see it but me.

Overall, very pleased with my purchase, though I wish I would have waited for the price to drop.

Sent from my Desire HD


----------



## muscleking

i just sold a perfectly working perfect pixel catleap to my boss. hopefully it lasts. i used it sparingly for 3 months without issues.

anybody's catleap or shimian dead? we should have a poll on this to test for reliability. i personally think it's reliable after having one myself. the panels are precisely made just like all the A+ panels so no reason why it won't last. i rather have some dead pixels than backlight bleed. mine had a little bit of that. good thing is can see either or. if no dead pixel and no light bleed then you are in trouble. lol

why price keep going up? cheapest right now on ebay is 304 usd for the shimian. i may get another one to see if the stand is less wobbly than the catleap.

kinda sucks that can't use the hd3000 graphics onboard connectors because the dvi is not dual dvi and hdmi doesn't go to 1600p and no displayport on the catleap. who wants to buy the crappy dual dvi to displayport for 50 when you can just get a graphics card that is much better than hd3000 and run dual dvi?


----------



## x1x1x1

Hello everybody,
I just made an account to let you all know how my monitor buying experience went. I've been watching this thread for almost 2 months, got here through a post on gizmodo that linked to Coding Horror, that is how i found out about these korean monitors. I have never considered upgrading my monitor, gaming on a 21,5'' 1080p TN monitor seemed the best for me. That is, until i read this forum and seen the picture quality which blew me away. If on my crappy monitor is seems perfect, what it would be like in real life? So i took the plunge and ordered from bigclothcraft the 2703 version, probably the cheapest version. My order was shipped friday night and monday i went to pick it up at the DHL office in my city. It only took a weekend from Korea to Romania. The monitor was very carefully packaged and i only had to pay the VAT on declared shipment value which was 25% of 100 dollars. I then got home and plugged everything in, praying it was perfect. Well it was!! No light bleeding, no dead pixels, no smoke coming out of it, no dust behind the tempered glass, just perfect (i hope i don't jinx it). The upgrade is well worth it, more so than a new video card or a new processor, because this monitor is the interface between you and the computer and it might as well be a high resolution high contrast beautiful display. Trust me people, the pictures of it really does not make it justice. Upgrading to this monitor is doing your eyes a great service. The games look great, the movies look beautiful, the pictures look stunning.

TL DR : bought a monitor, works great, looks perfect


----------



## BoredErica

My Catleap is still going strong, 3 months now.


----------



## Layo

Is there any big difference between Catleap and Crossover in electronics? Like if Crossover is better and more quality or is it just the stand and looks? $320 vs $400 is kinda difference and I couldn't care less about the stand.


----------



## Reaper2794

So what's the difference between the Catleap, Shimian, and Crossover?

The Crossover looks much sexier and does everything the Catleap doesn't, why the hell did I buy a Catleap in the first place?


----------



## apav

Hey guys,

Is it possible to play on this monitor with an xbox 360 without making the image stretch and look blurry? I know this has been asked before, but I don't quite understand how to fix it. What would setting the display settings to 720p do? Letterbox the image so the game would make up for 50% of the screen surrounded by a letterbox? Also, would buying a hdmi to dvi adapter and plugging that adapter into the catleap do anything?

Thanks


----------



## bukkit

my catleap is still good as new. no problems at all. if anyone is unsure, they should just buy it. i would want to get more, but i don't want to put my case labs case on the floor again and don't want to go through the trouble of removing the stand again.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Is it possible to play on this monitor with an xbox 360 without making the image stretch and look blurry? I know this has been asked before, but I don't quite understand how to fix it. What would setting the display settings to 720p do? Letterbox the image so the game would make up for 50% of the screen surrounded by a letterbox? Also, would buying a hdmi to dvi adapter and plugging that adapter into the catleap do anything?
> Thanks


Please, don't do this. If you buy 1440p monitor to play 720p xbox games you literally deserve punch in the face.
Also it's gonna look very bad if you want it fullscreen, 1080p on 27' is already bad enough now imagine 720p. Of course you can change resolution but what would be the point then...


----------



## Hamy144

Just oredered my second Q270 from Green-sum with Perfect Pixel.
hopefully will be blown away like i have been with my current one.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Just oredered my second Q270 from Green-sum with Perfect Pixel.
> hopefully will be blown away like i have been with my current one.


Let us know when you get it


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper2794*
> 
> So what's the difference between the Catleap, Shimian, and Crossover?
> The Crossover looks much sexier and does everything the Catleap doesn't, why the hell did I buy a Catleap in the first place?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Is there any big difference between Catleap and Crossover in electronics? Like if Crossover is better and more quality or is it just the stand and looks? $320 vs $400 is kinda difference and I couldn't care less about the stand.


Crossover tend to cost more. If they cost the same, get Crossover, better stand and general build quality.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Please, don't do this. If you buy 1440p monitor to play 720p xbox games you literally deserve punch in the face.
> Also it's gonna look very bad if you want it fullscreen, 1080p on 27' is already bad enough now imagine 720p. Of course you can change resolution but what would be the point then...


No I play PC games at 1440p the xbox is more of an afterthought for Halo 4.. so then I guess this monitor is no good? I thought it wouldn't stretch at 720p.


----------



## BoredErica

It's serviceable as an Xbox monitor, we'd worry if that's your primary reason for purchasing it though.


----------



## apav

I think my model is the 2C, if it will scale at 720p by pixel doubling, it still still be in a letterbox correct?

Well I guess either I play in a letterbox in my monitor or I play on my 15" laptop screen for now..


----------



## FishHeadswg

Just had a bit of a scare with my 270 SE.

My computer BSOD'd after an audio driver failed and restarted itself, so I turned my monitor off and got something to drink. I came back and pressed the power button and nothing happened. Then I booted down my computer and tried to power it on again thinking maybe it was the GPU - still nothing. Then I unhooked the power, reconnected everything and pressed it again and I got the usual blinking green light. I booted it back up and had a picture again.

I'm not quite sure what happened here. Should I be worried?


----------



## TheGoldFish

Hi everyone.

I bought a new Yamakasi 2703 and I got a few questions :

Should I buy a new DVI-D Dual Link cable? The one which comes with the screen seems cheap.

And where can I get a wall mount for it? (a 27" one, cheap if possible)

Thanks.


----------



## BoredErica

No need to buy a new one unless it breaks.


----------



## Wampbit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheGoldFish*
> 
> Hi everyone.
> I bought a new Yamakasi 2703 and I got a few questions :
> Should I buy a new DVI-D Dual Link cable? The one which comes with the screen seems cheap.
> And where can I get a wall mount for it? (a 27" one, cheap if possible)
> Thanks.


As it's a digital cable there isn't any signal degradation, so apart from the cable physically breaking there aren't differences in quality. Use it for now, replace it when it breaks. It is quite short though.


----------



## Degree

Anyone know how I can hook my xbox360 to my catleap?
Also, will it look good if I do use it for my 360? Reason being is because my TV just recently broke and I need to play halo 4 ;(


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Degree*
> 
> Anyone know how I can hook my xbox360 to my catleap?
> Also, will it look good if I do use it for my 360? Reason being is because my TV just recently broke and I need to play halo 4 ;(


This was answered for you already correct? I think I spotted the answer as being no due to the fact that you have a DVI only display.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> This was answered for you already correct? I think I spotted the answer as being no due to the fact that you have a DVI only display.


Yea it's been answered


----------



## atlblackops

the cable is fine. I bought one just in case, but the one that comes with the monitor works fine.

I purchased a VESA mount from Amazon, should be here tomorrow - http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017D0ENM/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_SC_dp_1

Good luck.


----------



## iARDAs

What is the best classy and cool looking stand for the Yamakasi?


----------



## PeNgUiN

I don't see any holes for a vesa mount...


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> What is the best classy and cool looking stand for the Yamakasi?


The one you can't see, such as a well placed wall mount.

I'll hold off on recommending the Rosewill RMS-MA2740 Black 13" - 27" Tilt/Swivel Wall Mount with Articulating Arm which I got from NewEgg for $19.99 until I fix it to the wall and mount my Q270SE on it.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> What is the best classy and cool looking stand for the Yamakasi?


I always have a thing for the Ergotron stand, my favourite, but expensive :/

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ergotron-lx-desk-mount-lcd-arm


----------



## iARDAs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PeNgUiN*
> 
> I don't see any holes for a vesa mount...


The monitör needs to be taken apart to install one as far as I know

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJCxZ0*
> 
> The one you can't see, such as a well placed wall mount.
> I'll hold off on recommending the Rosewill RMS-MA2740 Black 13" - 27" Tilt/Swivel Wall Mount with Articulating Arm which I got from NewEgg for $19.99 until I fix it to the wall and mount my Q270SE on it.


I will take a look at this. Thank you.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> I always have a thing for the Ergotron stand, my favourite, but expensive :/
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/ergotron-lx-desk-mount-lcd-arm


Damn that looks sweet but expensive. However I might give it a go. I will look into this

To be honest I am also a bit scared. I checked the stand tutorial removal guide and it scared me off.

I wish there was a youtube video of it as well.

I don't know if i will ever have the balls to install a new stand by taking the old stand off.

Edit : Unless I am missing something, our stand can not be tilted up and down right?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iARDAs*
> 
> The monitör needs to be taken apart to install one as far as I know
> I will take a look at this. Thank you.
> Damn that looks sweet but expensive. However I might give it a go. I will look into this
> 
> To be honest I am also a bit scared. I checked the stand tutorial removal guide and it scared me off.
> 
> I wish there was a youtube video of it as well.
> 
> I don't know if i will ever have the balls to install a new stand by taking the old stand off.
> 
> Edit : Unless I am missing something, our stand can not be tilted up and down right?


Mine tilts back and forth with a bit of force,
Only about 5 degrees forward and a good bit backwards
That's on the Q270, I'm not sure about the others.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I was going to but another one of these monitors but they're $600 dollars now!


----------



## atlblackops

I have the q270 SE and I just replaced the stand this morning, got it from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017D0ENM/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M3T1_SC_dp_1

Attached it to a stud, install took 5 minutes.

Removing the back peice, prepping the monitor for the mount took about 15 minutes. Highly recommended monitor and mount if you can accept the poor quality of construction.


----------



## BoredErica

If you want an adjustable stand, get a Crossover.


----------



## seg//fault

Just got my monitors debezeled, totally worth the work!!


----------



## antiflow

That looks awesome! any more pic's? I would love to see a step by step of how you did that.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *seg//fault*
> 
> Just got my monitors debezeled, totally worth the work!!


How much bezel did it take off? From the pic it looks to be quite a bit.


----------



## Havolice

im about to order a white Q270 catleap but wanted to ask

i used to have a shimian achieva ipsi but the colors where not realy good the panel felt dark even when brightness was set at max
does the catleaps suffer from this aswel.

and how is green sum as a seller specialy if you have more dead pixels then 5 or a faulty monitor

thanks guys dont want another dust filled dark un detailed screen like the achieva fiasco last time ><

ps this is the link to the monitor http://www.ebay.nl/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-White-LED-27-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-/140853514998?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20cb8612f6

odd thing is there is another white one at green sum but its 315 euro instead of 302 i wonder


----------



## seg//fault

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *antiflow*
> 
> That looks awesome! any more pic's? I would love to see a step by step of how you did that.


I basically just did this http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/7950#post_18008557 I just used gorilla glue to bond my blocks of wood to the back of the panel. As for the debezeling itself, i just followed the teardown guide in the OP of this thread, but just took it a few steps further







I'm using Ergotron Neo-Flex stands also.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> How much bezel did it take off? From the pic it looks to be quite a bit.


It took off at least an inch. Right now, by overlapping the side panel's bezels behind the center one, i have roughly half an inch of bezel between the panels. It's noticeably easier on the eyes in fullscreen games.


----------



## BoredErica

Shimians and Catleaps should both be very, very bright at max settings.

Don't get tempered glass if you're scared about dust, then.

For price changes, see countries the monitor can be shipped to, sometimes the list gets small for the cheaper one.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> *De-Bezeling Yamakasi Catleaps*
> 
> Well, I finally de-bezeled my Yamakasi Catleaps. Wow! Does it look so much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still debating if I should cover the silver lining with black electric tape or leave it. What do you think?
> 
> Also, if you want to see more pictures, check out my build log in my signature.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here is what it use to look like:*















































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































What stand is that...? That monitor step up is gorgeous... Also can you turn them sideways or only upright?


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Shimians and Catleaps should both be very, very bright at max settings.
> Don't get tempered glass if you're scared about dust, then.
> For price changes, see countries the monitor can be shipped to, sometimes the list gets small for the cheaper one.


thats realy odd mine was so dark that actual small detail in textures didnt show up like the stone cracking in the wow launcher even on max brightness * on monitor self not in nvidia panel tho*


----------



## Wampbit

Maybe your original monitor was defective? I haven't experience any such problems for the catleap; if you have a specific image that you can link to I'd gladly check that all the details are visible.


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wampbit*
> 
> Maybe your original monitor was defective? I haven't experience any such problems for the catleap; if you have a specific image that you can link to I'd gladly check that all the details are visible.


if you will thanks its the world of warcraft patcher/launcher it has stony cracks and sand forming

if you cannot get that ill make a print screen as soon as i get home and email it to you if thats ok


----------



## magicase

Does anyone know where the cheapest place is to buy the 120hz version of this screen?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> Does anyone know where the cheapest place is to buy the 120hz version of this screen?


I'm not aware they still sell those. Also 120Hz as far as I knew was only from ocing the early models. What would you use 120Hz for? An attempt at 3D?


----------



## magicase

FPS gaming and racing games.


----------



## Havolice

o wel green sum made his catleaps 50 euro more expensive over night hell no that im gonna pay 400 -430 euro to get one here thats with costums


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> o wel green sum made his catleaps 50 euro more expensive over night hell no that im gonna pay 400 -430 euro to get one here thats with costums


Yep. That guy has became overpriced serverly.







430 Euros can easily buy a Dell Ultrasharp..









Anyways I bought mine back when it was only like 300 USD which I thought was very reasonable. I guess 300 USD is about 270 Euro or so... *Google* WHOOPS! 236 Euro. I guess the dollar dropped more than I thought in the past few days..


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Yep. That guy has became overpriced serverly.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 430 Euros can easily buy a Dell Ultrasharp..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways I bought mine back when it was only like 300 USD which I thought was very reasonable. I guess 300 USD is about 270 Euro or so... *Google* WHOOPS! 236 Euro. I guess the dollar dropped more than I thought in the past few days..


seems all are overpriced now except the achieva shimians -.- wich is 251 euro problem is already owned a tempered glass version and to me the screen was un detailed and very dark to afraid to buy another of these -.-


----------



## NinjaSushi2

RMA?


----------



## Hamy144

Got my second Q270 today this time from green sum
no dead pixels, but i did go for the perfect pixel option.
Cost me all in all $499 for the monitor which was £300 + those robbing people called the government sticking their hand into my pocket as usuall for £54.15, plus £39.99 for the adapter so all in all around £390, still £200 less than Dell I remember


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Got my second Q270 today this time from green sum
> no dead pixels, but i did go for the perfect pixel option.
> Cost me all in all $499 for the monitor which was £300 + those robbing people called the government sticking their hand into my pocket as usuall for £54.15, plus £39.99 for the adapter so all in all around £390, still £200 less than Dell I remember


how is the quality of the image vs a dell ultrasharp


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> how is the quality of the image vs a dell ultrasharp


Never used one, but god i hate Dell's AG coating its just horrific how much it effects the picture.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Got my second Q270 today this time from green sum
> no dead pixels, but i did go for the perfect pixel option.
> Cost me all in all $499 for the monitor which was £300 + those robbing people called the government sticking their hand into my pocket as usuall for £54.15, plus £39.99 for the adapter so all in all around £390, still £200 less than Dell I remember
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> how is the quality of the image vs a dell ultrasharp
Click to expand...


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*


zing


----------



## BoredErica

Let me clarify.
Imagine compared to Dell is about the same. The AG coating is bad, and really pointless for many, many users. (Why buy a fancy IPS and then smother it in AG, and a bad AG at that?) Dells tend to have better warranty/tech support though, which you get with the extra ~$300 in price.


----------



## bluephish

It looks like the cheapest these monitors are going for on Ebay right now is $350. Does anyone know if the price fluctuates regularly? If the Auria EQ276W 27" IPS LED Monitor is comparable, I might just shell out an extra $50 to buy from a major retailer: http://www.microcenter.com/product/384780/EQ276W_27_IPS_LED_Monitor. Thoughts? Thanks!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

These damn monitors are too expensive now. I should have ordered 3 instead of 1 back in February.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> These damn monitors are too expensive now. I should have ordered 3 instead of 1 back in February.


They're not too expensive.


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> They're not too expensive.


i find 350-400 euro's to expensive while they where 50-100 euros cheaper last week.
.with costums that will be around 440- 490 here dell u2713 can be bought for 530 here so


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> These damn monitors are too expensive now. I should have ordered 3 instead of 1 back in February.
> 
> 
> 
> They're not too expensive.
Click to expand...

What you smoking? They were 300USD in February and a week ago I saw them for 600-650 USD. Too expensive.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e6fcfb462

I am looking at that, did most of you guys come with dead pixels/dust in the glass??


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What you smoking? They were 300USD in February and a week ago I saw them for 600-650 USD. Too expensive.


600-650? I see them usually hover between 350-475 mark?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-Computer-Monitor-Tempered-glass-/110836482125

*New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 Computer Monitor + Tempered glass*

_Price: US $599.90_


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-Computer-Monitor-Tempered-glass-/110836482125
> *New YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 Computer Monitor + Tempered glass*
> _Price: US $599.90_


http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-ONLY-USA-SALE-/150808035022?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item231cdbfece

$429.99 whats different about it?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Different seller. Tempered glass. Over priced.

I see some of these other ones, "4 steps" guys advertising for much cheaper.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

The catleap guys can guarantee dead pixels too.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> The catleap guys can guarantee dead pixels too.


I don't think any of them are guaranteed to have 0 dead pixels they all say up to 5 is acceptable even the "pixel perfect" models lol.... kinda misleading.


----------



## Azefore

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixel-Perfect-ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-Lite-Quad-HD-2560x1440-DVI-Free-shipping-/330766364137?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d03362de9

$364.20 Shop around a bit but I'd wait for stock on the Catleaps if your interested, the ONLY reason why it's $600 is because it's ultra low stock, same goes for Accessorieswhole, they have theirs at $999 for that same reason and did the same for Crossover 27Qs and now they're back to ~$400, it'll be bumped back down once stock comes in.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Azefore*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pixel-Perfect-ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-Lite-Quad-HD-2560x1440-DVI-Free-shipping-/330766364137?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d03362de9
> $364.20 Shop around a bit but I'd wait for stock on the Catleaps if your interested, the ONLY reason why it's $600 is because it's ultra low stock, same goes for Accessorieswhole, they have theirs at $999 for that same reason and did the same for Crossover 27Qs and now they're back to ~$400, it'll be bumped back down once stock comes in.


Awesome that looks nice and appears to be 0 screwed up pixel guarantee. Very tempting.... I have shopped around quite a bit...


----------



## Azefore

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Awesome that looks nice and appears to be 0 screwed up pixel guarantee. Very tempting.... I have shopped around quite a bit...


Aye its not a bad buy, but any working 1440p isn't to be honest, and yah ik lol, just meant sit on your hands for a little, something good may turn up in a month or so. I'm looking to sell my Crossover 27Qs soon but no warranty in that case.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I just want 2 more catleaps so I can tri-monitor that stuff.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I just want 2 more catleaps so I can tri-monitor that stuff.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Did it just repost 4 times!?

Now it reposted two times.. what the heck is going on with OCN?


----------



## cutty1998

I absolutely need a Catleap by Christmas eve. If I can't get a 2B OC edition, what are the best alternatives? This is a gift for my son. I really want to hook him up. I am ready to buy right now. but am very leary with all the different info I have gotten. Joined 120Hz.net ,and pre-ordered a 2B,but there seems to be no sign of anything happening. .The ads on Ebay are so freaky. Some have tempered glass,no speakers,speakers dual DVI ,HDMI,No HDMI,Crappy stand ,Good stand ,100Hz + possiblility ,60 Hz,pixel perfect, 5 dead pixels ,15 dead pixels,light bleeding ,have to take apart to attach stand? I am freakin dizzy with these things. But I can vision in my head how amazing a 1440P ISP panel running Battlefield 3 with 1 or 2 GTX 680's would look. Then there is the Nvidia 120 Hz Lockout ,that Toasty X has a patch for. This is a nightmare. And ,How the hell does one overclock a Monitor??????? Please help me !!


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I absolutely need a Catleap by Christmas eve. If I can't get a 2B OC edition, what are the best alternatives? This is a gift for my son. I really want to hook him up. I am ready to buy right now. but am very leary with all the different info I have gotten. Joined 120Hz.net ,and pre-ordered a 2B,but there seems to be no sign of anything happening. .The ads on Ebay are so freaky. Some have tempered glass,no speakers,speakers dual DVI ,HDMI,No HDMI,Crappy stand ,Good stand ,100Hz + possiblility ,60 Hz,pixel perfect, 5 dead pixels ,15 dead pixels,light bleeding ,have to take apart to attach stand? I am freakin dizzy with these things. But I can vision in my head how amazing a 1440P ISP panel running Battlefield 3 with 1 or 2 GTX 680's would look. Then there is the Nvidia 120 Hz Lockout ,that Toasty X has a patch for. This is a nightmare. And ,How the hell does one overclock a Monitor??????? Please help me !!


dude I feel the same as you, since you need it for christmas I guess you can't wait for an overlord since they say mid december for back in stock but who knows if that will be true. I'm not sure I want to wait either but I am also so confused about which one catleap/shimian to buy and not get ripped off or buy a POS with crap pixels im gonna hate the sight of and be so angry I might hulk smash it.


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> dude I feel the same as you, since you need it for christmas I guess you can't wait for an overlord since they say mid december for back in stock but who knows if that will be true. I'm not sure I want to wait either but I am also so confused about which one catleap/shimian to buy and not get ripped off or buy a POS with crap pixels im gonna hate the sight of and be so angry I might hulk smash it.


Yeah ,this is very scary and complicated,but I am sure that IPS monitor is the way to go ,be it 60Hz, or 120Hz. I would like to actually see one in action ,before I shell out the cash , but I doubt that is gonna happen. Asus has something on compusa for $700 but I can't swing that much $$$ ,and not sure if it is even an IPS .It must be. I have to check again. Did you go on 120hz.net? I have been lingering there ,trying to learn stuff ,but there seems to be alot more info in this thread . OCN rules! It seems like ,in the future ,everyone will be using IPS monitors. They look so amazing on paper!!!!


----------



## cutty1998

I just watched this ,and it blew my mind. It is obvious ,that to wait for the extreme OC edition is going to be worth it !!!! 



 more catleap vids one crazy one doing 1000 FPS !


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I just watched this ,and it blew my mind. It is obvious ,that to wait for the extreme OC edition is going to be worth it !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> more catleap vids one crazy one doing 1000 FPS !


idk man im bout to not buy any of them at all and just keep using my 40" 1080 lg tv to game on lol in 6 months they will be cheaper anyway maybe even $100 or more cheaper.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HardwareDecoder*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I just watched this ,and it blew my mind. It is obvious ,that to wait for the extreme OC edition is going to be worth it !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> more catleap vids one crazy one doing 1000 FPS !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> idk man im bout to not buy any of them at all and just keep using my 40" 1080 lg tv to game on lol in 6 months they will be cheaper anyway maybe even $100 or more cheaper.
Click to expand...

doesn't look as good.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I absolutely need a Catleap by Christmas eve. If I can't get a 2B OC edition, what are the best alternatives? This is a gift for my son. I really want to hook him up. I am ready to buy right now. but am very leary with all the different info I have gotten. Joined 120Hz.net ,and pre-ordered a 2B,but there seems to be no sign of anything happening. .The ads on Ebay are so freaky. Some have tempered glass,no speakers,speakers dual DVI ,HDMI,No HDMI,Crappy stand ,Good stand ,100Hz + possiblility ,60 Hz,pixel perfect, 5 dead pixels ,15 dead pixels,light bleeding ,have to take apart to attach stand? I am freakin dizzy with these things. But I can vision in my head how amazing a 1440P ISP panel running Battlefield 3 with 1 or 2 GTX 680's would look. Then there is the Nvidia 120 Hz Lockout ,that Toasty X has a patch for. This is a nightmare. And ,How the hell does one overclock a Monitor??????? Please help me !!


Haha. It's not that hard. Just pick the model with pixel perfect guarantee. I'm pretty sure all models have HDMI.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Haha. It's not that hard. Just pick the model with pixel perfect guarantee. I'm pretty sure all models have HDMI.


Not all catleap models have HDMI.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So does anyone own both a Yamakasi Catleap and a Achieva Shimian? Which do you like better if so.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Haha. It's not that hard. Just pick the model with pixel perfect guarantee. I'm pretty sure all models have HDMI.


I think we've repeated over and over in the thread, it's mostly a scam.


----------



## HardwareDecoder

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think we've repeated over and over in the thread, it's mostly a scam.


I agree since none of them are actually claimed to be 'perfect' if you read the fine print.


----------



## neliz

My screen finally caved in.. now I've got a vertical light-blue line at about 75% of the screen.

since I'm leaving for a couple of weeks I need to check back on it later.. but I just hope the problem doesn't get any worse.


----------



## Hamy144

Finally got my second Q270 set up


----------



## Cavey00

Gah. I can't wait till I can afford another Catleap. Might have to mate a Q270 with my 2703 though because I'll need the multi input one.


----------



## nauds

Hi everyone, I got the Catleap Q270 SE and I'm trying to follow the calibration steps on page one.

I have dual monitors, the 27" Catleap Q270 SE (DVI Output)

and

a 24" Asus (HDMI)

Windows 7 is incredibly ******ed and wont let me change the ID of the Catleap to #1. So when I run the loader (catleap-native) it changes the brightness of monitor #1 (the Asus).

I have no idea how to calibrate the Catleap, because i cant change the ID to #1.

Does anyone know how to calibrate the Catleap when its auto-assigned monitor #2?

Ps. I have a Nvidia GeForce GTX 680


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nauds*
> 
> I have no idea how to calibrate the Catleap, because i cant change the ID to #1.
> Ps. I have a Nvidia GeForce GTX 680


If you have the NVidia control panel u should be able to change the assigned numbers and position of the monitors.
Set the catleap as default monitor and drag it to it's correct position.

Thats how i did it, maybe your issue is different, not sure.


----------



## Dr. Gibbs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I just watched this ,and it blew my mind. It is obvious ,that to wait for the extreme OC edition is going to be worth it !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> more catleap vids one crazy one doing *1000 FPS* !


Sorry, did you really mean 1Ghz?? That would be multiplying the rating of the chips by a factor of over 16. That simply doesn't happen with out the magic smoke disappearing!


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr. Gibbs*
> 
> Sorry, did you really mean 1Ghz?? That would be multiplying the rating of the chips by a factor of over 16. That simply doesn't happen with out the magic smoke disappearing!


I know it sounds crazy but it was just some super low res demo of some video noise ,but it was 1000FPS.


----------



## nauds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delphiwizard*
> 
> If you have the NVidia control panel u should be able to change the assigned numbers and position of the monitors.
> Set the catleap as default monitor and drag it to it's correct position.
> Thats how i did it, maybe your issue is different, not sure.


I can change the positions, but there isn't an option to change the assigned number... (at least not that I can see)


----------



## xXTh0mpsonXx

If someone who owns one of these add me on steam to talk about them? steam id : Bloodspilled (xxth0mpsonxx)


----------



## BoredErica

Sure, I got you.


----------



## Havolice

well im buying a white catleap today of greensum * if he doesnt increase the prices like a ninja* after i called dutch costums to see what ill be having to shell out for it.


----------



## iGot

Hi, i have two Yamakasi Catleap, as you can see here:


----------



## Havolice

wel just ordered my white yamakazi catleap 270q







getting that IM SO EXCITED mood again hehe







hope green sum does a beter job on the costums ticket then bcc


----------



## celendis

I just received my Q270 and WOW! What a brilliant display! The only issue I have is that the power and brightness buttons appear to do nothing. There is no power light in the bottom right corner. My initial guess is that there is something that is not connected inside. Before I look into taking it apart to check connections, does anyone have any suggestions?

The brightness is on full bright and the display seems to be working other than the lack of brightness control.


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celendis*
> 
> I just received my Q270 and WOW! What a brilliant display! The only issue I have is that the power and brightness buttons appear to do nothing. There is no power light in the bottom right corner. My initial guess is that there is something that is not connected inside. Before I look into taking it apart to check connections, does anyone have any suggestions?
> The brightness is on full bright and the display seems to be working other than the lack of brightness control.


wel this realy does sound like something is lose in there i think there gues here that could help you


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *celendis*
> 
> I just received my Q270 and WOW! What a brilliant display! The only issue I have is that the power and brightness buttons appear to do nothing. There is no power light in the bottom right corner. My initial guess is that there is something that is not connected inside. Before I look into taking it apart to check connections, does anyone have any suggestions?
> The brightness is on full bright and the display seems to be working other than the lack of brightness control.


You have to hold down the correct button and wait a few seconds.


----------



## kilotango

I am having problems with my Q270 on Both Windows and Mac

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?

Mac mini 2.3 , i5 Intel HD 3000 512 MB
Windows ATI RADEON HD3400

2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?

What drivers isnt this Plug n Play?

3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?

Yes tried DVI cables on Mac Mini - HDMI -> HDMI DVI Adaptor -> Catleap DVI

4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?

Yes we are talking one monitor only

4. Tried any of the other things listed above?

Yes Tried and Tired


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilotango*
> 
> I am having problems with my Q270 on Both Windows and Mac
> 1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
> Mac mini 2.3 , i5 Intel HD 3000 512 MB
> Windows ATI RADEON HD3400
> 2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
> What drivers isnt this Plug n Play?
> 3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
> Yes tried DVI cables on Mac Mini - HDMI -> HDMI DVI Adaptor -> Catleap DVI
> 4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
> Yes we are talking one monitor only
> 4. Tried any of the other things listed above?
> Yes Tried and Tired


i do not want to sound like an a hole :*(

but those 2 sound like onboard graphics chips aka the cpu gpu cores

it says on almost every sellers info that these are NOT supported


----------



## kilotango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> i do not want to sound like an a hole :*(
> but those 2 sound like onboard graphics chips aka the cpu gpu cores
> it says on almost every sellers info that these are NOT supported


Mate you dont sound like an hole. You are just giving yr opinion/ advice.

Well things have changed in the last hour or so. And I have i working on a PC, updated the driver and used the Dual DVI Link (supplied cable). It seems to have more connectors. Not sure why it is dual link as it is only one plug with more pins.

Anyway Mac Mini mystery is still not solved.


----------



## Norlig

What monitor am I looking for?

2560x1440
Able to be overclocked to a higher refresh rate (without opening the monitor?)
Only DVI-DL (for less input lag)
No speakers
no AG coating.
zero dead pixels promised (if they indeed do promise that anymore?)

thank you


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilotango*
> 
> Mate you dont sound like an hole. You are just giving yr opinion/ advice.
> Well things have changed in the last hour or so. And I have i working on a PC, updated the driver and used the Dual DVI Link (supplied cable). It seems to have more connectors. Not sure why it is dual link as it is only one plug with more pins.
> Anyway Mac Mini mystery is still not solved.


said it cause some times its not fun to hear this kind of information

but dvi and dual link dvi are basicly the same cable just more connectors these connectors give the kabel more bandwidth * dont know if i used the right term* its kinda like the same with hdmi 1.3 and 1.4a one can send more information then the other thats basicly what this is about the monitor is not recieving the info it needs to display the picture


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Norlig*
> 
> What monitor am I looking for?
> 2560x1440
> Able to be overclocked to a higher refresh rate
> Only DVI-DL (for less input lag)
> No speakers
> no AG coating.
> zero dead pixels promised (if they indeed do promise that anymore?)
> thank you


overlord tempest OC
or yamakazi catleap 2b 120hz edition basicly your only 2 choises


----------



## Norlig

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> overlord tempest OC
> or yamakazi catleap 2b 120hz edition basicly your only 2 choises


seems they are both out of stock and hard to get.

What would I have to loose to atleast get one that will overclock?


----------



## d3vour3r

I'm thinking of getting a catleap 2703 as I'm getting too frustrated with the crossfire/eyefinity issues when running my 3x24" LEDs so I'm tossing up the idea of just getting a nice 27" and run a single monitor setup for gaming plus 2x 24" auxiliaries.

Do you all think this is a wise move?


----------



## NameMakingSux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I just watched this ,and it blew my mind. It is obvious ,that to wait for the extreme OC edition is going to be worth it !!!!
> 
> 
> 
> more catleap vids one crazy one doing 1000 FPS !


You linked the same vid twice, and neither were showing a catleap doing 1000 FPS. Where is this video?


----------



## BoredErica

There isn't a 1000FPS Catleap, that's a hoax from all I know. Highest I've seen is 144hz on a 21 inch. 120hz is still rare on 1440p today. 1000FPS? In year 5000, maybe.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilotango*
> 
> I am having problems with my Q270 on Both Windows and Mac
> 1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
> Mac mini 2.3 , i5 Intel HD 3000 512 MB
> Windows ATI RADEON HD3400
> 2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
> What drivers isnt this Plug n Play?
> 3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
> Yes tried DVI cables on Mac Mini - *HDMI* -> HDMI DVI Adaptor -> Catleap DVI
> 4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
> Yes we are talking one monitor only
> 4. Tried any of the other things listed above?
> Yes Tried and Tired


You cannot use an HDMI output. You must use either a _native_ Dual Link DVI output, or displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter. If you have a Dual Link DVI output, use that. If you don't, you'll need a DisplayPort to DL-DVI adapter (~$60+; if it costs less, it isn't a DL-DVI adapter).


----------



## kilotango

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You cannot use an HDMI output. You must use either a _native_ Dual Link DVI output, or displayport to Dual Link DVI adapter. If you have a Dual Link DVI output, use that. If you don't, you'll need a DisplayPort to DL-DVI adapter (~$60+; if it costs less, it isn't a DL-DVI adapter).


There are 2 kinds of cable/ adaptors:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mini-DisplayPort-Display-Port-to-VGA-Adapter-Converter-/221066164403?pt=AU_CablesConnectors&hash=item337891f8b3&_uhb=1#ht_2643wt_1397

or this

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Apple-MB571Z-A-Mini-Display-Port-to-Dual-Link-DVI-Adapter-/321010230493?pt=AU_Components&hash=item4abdb364dd&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1156


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kilotango*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Apple-MB571Z-A-Mini-Display-Port-to-Dual-Link-DVI-Adapter-/321010230493?pt=AU_Components&hash=item4abdb364dd&_uhb=1#ht_500wt_1156


This is the correct one.


----------



## AJCxZ0

This sounds like schilling, but if you're looking for a good ten foot dual link DVD-D cable like the one I use with my Catleap Q270, then you can get a Nippon Labs Premium 10 ft. with Digital Dual-link Model DVI 10 DD from NewEgg for $7.99 delivered, or a Nippon Labs Premium 6 ft. DVI Cable with Digital Dual-link Model DVI 6 DD for $7.49 delivered during the current Black Friday sale.


----------



## neliz

wow, my wife just told me that my q270 is now completely dead.

Not sure if I could be bothered with trying a new controller board or just getting something completely different (and with warranty) now.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Are there a lot of issues with the q270's or something?

I haven't kept up for months but before i bought mine most people were pretty satisfied, minus the odd few that got hosed on back lightbleed or dead pixels, but the pixel perfect guarantee covered both those bases. I've had mine for 6 months. 0 problems (minus odd noises on certain screens). I'd say I got my monies worth for sure though. It's a beautiful display.


----------



## BoredErica

It's the people that have problems venting again. Mine works fine, but you don't see me walking around proclaiming how well my monitor works. Every electronic has a chance a failure, it's all statistics.


----------



## eternal7trance

Mine is still working fine coming up on a year almost.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Mine is still working fine coming up on a year almost.


That's really impressive considering my BenQ XL2410T lasted only 3 weeks.


----------



## NameMakingSux

That's really impressive considering my BenQ XL2410T lasted only 3 weeks.[/quote]

That sucks! Surely you could have gotten it replaced, though.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Mine is still working fine coming up on a year almost.


Watch it break 1 day after warranty expires


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> That's really impressive considering my BenQ XL2410T lasted only 3 weeks.


That sucks! Surely you could have gotten it replaced, though.[/quote]

I replaced it with a Samsung S23A950D.

Love it.


----------



## Badge56

Hi all, stumbled onto this tread on november 19th. On november 20th I made the *leap* and ordered off EBay a Q270 Catleap from '' *Bigclothcraft* ''. Like all the others he promised free xpress shipping etc etc. I of course I did not believe he could ship from S.Korea to Canada in 3-5 days. Well he did today. 3 days.... could not believe..
Anyways, it's a standard one port DVD X2 with (speakers that I dont care about). I was scared about dead pixels but NO dead pixels I can find. Worked right out of the box in the desired resolution. Could not be happier.
Great deal.. $379.00 + $55 taxes.... He put value in at $300.. resonnable . I could have put lower but did not want to paly around with Canada Customs..


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> Hi all, stumbled onto this tread on november 19th. On november 20th I made the *leap* and ordered off EBay a Q270 Catleap from '' *Bigclothcraft* ''. Like all the others he promised free xpress shipping etc etc. I of course I did not believe he could ship from S.Korea to Canada in 3-5 days. Well he did today. 3 days.... could not believe..
> Anyways, it's a standard one port DVD X2 with (speakers that I dont care about). I was scared about dead pixels but NO dead pixels I can find. Worked right out of the box in the desired resolution. Could not be happier.
> Great deal.. $379.00 + $55 taxes.... He put value in at $300.. resonnable . I could have put lower but did not want to paly around with Canada Customs..


nice my tax was 100 euro cause of a error on green-sum and dutch costums being ******ed :/
bcc tho states import tickets beter


----------



## xorxhs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> Hi all, stumbled onto this tread on november 19th. On november 20th I made the *leap* and ordered off EBay a Q270 Catleap from '' *Bigclothcraft* ''. Like all the others he promised free xpress shipping etc etc. I of course I did not believe he could ship from S.Korea to Canada in 3-5 days. Well he did today. 3 days.... could not believe..
> Anyways, it's a standard one port DVD X2 with (speakers that I dont care about). I was scared about dead pixels but NO dead pixels I can find. Worked right out of the box in the desired resolution. Could not be happier.
> Great deal.. $379.00 + $55 taxes.... He put value in at $300.. resonnable . I could have put lower but did not want to paly around with Canada Customs..


Have you tested if your monitor can oc above 60Hz? Can you link from ebay which one you got?


----------



## gezer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> nice my tax was 100 euro cause of a error on green-sum and dutch costums being ******ed :/
> bcc tho states import tickets beter


Strange, I didnot pay any customs tax on my monitor. Living in belgium btw.


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Strange, I didnot pay any customs tax on my monitor. Living in belgium btw.


wel it went wrong twice here once from bcc but i could get that cleared cause the reciet said xxx amount product xx amount transport cost

green sum is free shipping so paypal says 0,00 shipping fee and our costums just goes HEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE lets grab the 392 and smack transport on top of that and then do tax YESJJ win

very frustrating but he the monitor is flawless and what is 30 euro more on it for a perfect low input display


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gezer*
> 
> Strange, I didnot pay any customs tax on my monitor. Living in belgium btw.


Straneg , i'm from Belgium too and payed €65 customs, you got lucky


----------



## douglatins

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> Hi all, stumbled onto this tread on november 19th. On november 20th I made the *leap* and ordered off EBay a Q270 Catleap from '' *Bigclothcraft* ''. Like all the others he promised free xpress shipping etc etc. I of course I did not believe he could ship from S.Korea to Canada in 3-5 days. Well he did today. 3 days.... could not believe..
> Anyways, it's a standard one port DVD X2 with (speakers that I dont care about). I was scared about dead pixels but NO dead pixels I can find. Worked right out of the box in the desired resolution. Could not be happier.
> Great deal.. $379.00 + $55 taxes.... He put value in at $300.. resonnable . I could have put lower but did not want to paly around with Canada Customs..


Lucky, for me would be 228$ for taxes

Which brand is best? Cross or Cat?
I wanted a 120hz capable one


----------



## leezer3

UK potential buyer checking in and looking for a little advice.
I'm eyeing up one of the Catleap 27" from BigClothCraft with the ad-board ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-HDMI-1-4a-Q271-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Monitor-HDMI-/150866223426?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item232053e142 )

This is primarily because I want support for some lower resolutions too, but it's not clear from the description whether it'll still be limited to the native res, or whether the ad-board as I suspect will add an internal scaler.
I could try GPU scaling I suppose, but I don't know what this is liable to do to Linux consoles or gaming performance?

Basic use is for programming, browsing and a little gaming to replace a 2407WFP.
Video card is a 6850, so should be plenty powerful enough for the minute.

I'm also figuring working on a declared customs value of $150 to give a total customs charge of about £20 GB?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leezer3*
> 
> UK potential buyer checking in and looking for a little advice.
> I'm eyeing up one of the Catleap 27" from BigClothCraft with the ad-board ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-HDMI-1-4a-Q271-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Monitor-HDMI-/150866223426?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item232053e142 )
> This is primarily because I want support for some lower resolutions too, but it's not clear from the description whether it'll still be limited to the native res, or whether the ad-board as I suspect will add an internal scaler.
> I could try GPU scaling I suppose, but I don't know what this is liable to do to Linux consoles or gaming performance?
> Basic use is for programming, browsing and a little gaming to replace a 2407WFP.
> Video card is a 6850, so should be plenty powerful enough for the minute.
> I'm also figuring working on a declared customs value of $150 to give a total customs charge of about £20 GB?


It's not limited to the native resolution. You can change it to 1080p any time and it will make everything look nice and big.


----------



## Demented

I know I haven't posted here in a bit, but I have a slight problem. Nothing major, but my catleap color profile used to load with no problems under 12.8 drivers. I recently updated them to 12.10, and now I have to manually load it once I'm in windows.

Has anyone else had this, and what was the best way to solve it?

Thanks!


----------



## Badge56

I did not try higher than 60Hz
Does not show anything higher as a choice. Very nice at 60Hz... Why push it?


----------



## LSB1

Hey Guys,

I bought a great Humanscale Monitor arm for my Catleap, but I recently moved and have no place to mount the desk arm. Has there been any new/recommended VESA monitor stands for the 27" catleap? I don't want to reinstall the flimsy stand that came with it. Thanks for any suggestions / links/ or pictures.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> I did not try higher than 60Hz
> Does not show anything higher as a choice. Very nice at 60Hz... Why push it?


Because the motion is reported to b much smoother at 120hz. It's kindda like 'you gotta see it to understand' kindda thing. But since you haven't, you're happy without 120hz. (Ignorance is bliss!







)


----------



## nauds

Hi guys, Im getting a second catleap. The first one I got was dual DVI. So I need an HDMI version so I can run dual monitors. Anyone suggest a good seller?

I found an auction for the q271:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-HDMI-1-4a-Q271-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Monitor-HDMI-/140808076813?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c8d0be0d

The q271 does support 2560x1440 correct?


----------



## BoredErica

Yes, it supports the resolution.


----------



## Havolice

Little update

i calibrated the display and its even beter now havent found any negative things about it imo great display still zero dead pixels


----------



## nauds

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Yes, it supports the resolution.


thanks do I need any special kind of HDMI cable? Currently I have a Monster HDMI cable


----------



## BoredErica

Well if your graphics card has only one DVI output and you only have one...

If that's true, do a thread search for "hdmi" and the answer has been listed many times, it's just that I never paid attention because it never applied to me.


----------



## taiko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by leezer3 View Post
> 
> UK potential buyer checking in and looking for a little advice.
> I'm eyeing up one of the Catleap 27" from BigClothCraft with the ad-board ( http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-HDMI-1-4a-Q271-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Monitor-HDMI-/150866223426?pt=UK_Computing_ComputerComponents_Monitors&hash=item232053e142 )
> This is primarily because I want support for some lower resolutions too, but it's not clear from the description whether it'll still be limited to the native res, or whether the ad-board as I suspect will add an internal scaler.
> I could try GPU scaling I suppose, but I don't know what this is liable to do to Linux consoles or gaming performance?
> Basic use is for programming, browsing and a little gaming to replace a 2407WFP.
> Video card is a 6850, so should be plenty powerful enough for the minute.
> I'm also figuring working on a declared customs value of $150 to give a total customs charge of about £20 GB?


Let us know how you get on mate cos I am in the market for one in 2 weeks !


----------



## Dariu5

Hello

I am new here, and very interested in 120hz ips monitors. After reading some about these monitors, i am now asking, how do you know which monitors are 60hz+ capable?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dariu5*
> 
> Hello
> I am new here, and very interested in 120hz ips monitors. After reading some about these monitors, i am now asking, how do you know which monitors are 60hz+ capable?


The info you need is in the first post.


----------



## kesse

Last thursday i ordered one of these Korean badboys from Dream-Seller. Strangely, the package with my precious is moving around in limbo:

- 11/28/2012 - Wednesday
4:47 am In transit SHANGHAI CN
1:32 am In transit SENNAN-SHI JP

- 11/27/2012 - Tuesday
10:50 pm In transit NARITA-SHI JP
3:15 am Departed FedEx location GUANGZHOU CN
1:05 am In transit GUANGZHOU CN

- 11/26/2012 - Monday
1:32 am In transit GUANGZHOU CN

- 11/25/2012 - Sunday
11:25 pm Arrived at FedEx location GUANGZHOU CN
9:14 pm In transit SHANGHAI CN
4:43 pm In transit INCHEON KR

- 11/24/2012 - Saturday
7:19 pm In transit INCHEON KR

- 11/23/2012 - Friday
7:12 pm Left FedEx origin facility BUSAN KR
5:02 pm Picked up BUSAN KR
Package received after FedEx cutoff
12:02 am Shipment information sent to FedEx

(Sorry for the formatting)

The monitor is due to arrive in Denmark within two days. It seems like it won't. I wonder why it jumps from Korea -> China -> Japan -> China. Great work, FedEx.


----------



## evilferret

Hey guys, was about to pull the trigger on one of these till I saw the warning on green-sum about issues with certain models.

Should I avoid these and just gamble again with one of the new korean ips brands?


----------



## BoredErica

I prefer BCC.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Hey guys, was about to pull the trigger on one of these till I saw the warning on green-sum about issues with certain models.
> Should I avoid these and just gamble again with one of the new korean ips brands?


Most posters on overclock.net are satisfied with their purchase.


----------



## eternal7trance

dcsamsungmall was pretty good as well.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> dcsamsungmall was pretty good as well.


My friends mostly brought from BCC, green-sum and TA Planet. Not sure about the other sellers.


----------



## Dariu5

So if i understand this correctly.. there are no 120hz capable monitors anymore, because they have changed the PCB and the new one is not able to OC?


----------



## Faithh

Can overclocking the monitor damage the monitor or the pixelclockgenerator on the gpu?


----------



## TheInternal

Got my Yamakasi Catleap monitor in last week. Awesome picture. No obvious pixel issues. Fired up just fine. I've not attempted to overclock / alter it in any fashion. Gaming is pleasant. The stand rather sucks though, but it suffices.

When I'm not at my computer, I turn my monitors off (well, "standby" these days). Twice in less than a week, when I've put the monitor on standby for over a few hours and come back to turn it on, the screen is nothing but visual noise / lines / static until I turn it off then back on again.

I assume this is an indication of a failing monitor? I've already contacted "bigclothcraft" on ebay about the problem and am waiting to hear back.

Any thoughts?

The screen is hooked to a Core i5 3570k thoroughly burned-in / test to 4.4GHz OC with dual Geforce 670 GTX in SLI mode at stock speeds. I also have an old Dell 24" hooked up and running in portrait mode.


----------



## Badge56

I have had this happend twice. Screen is all jumled horizontal lines.
Not a big deal. Has more to do with waking from sleep. Has not done it in a wile. I have updated the video card drivers.


----------



## Havolice

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Hey guys, was about to pull the trigger on one of these till I saw the warning on green-sum about issues with certain models.
> Should I avoid these and just gamble again with one of the new korean ips brands?


i ordered a catleap white q270 from green sum and other then a complete mess of the import ticket everything was fine and dandy no dead pixels and 3 days shipped


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Most posters on overclock.net are satisfied with their purchase.


Well green-sum been mentioned a lot as a trusted seller.

If you check all his new listing he warns about problems with current production runs on most of the known korean brands.

Got me confused, it wasn't there (or I didn't see it) when I was checking a few weeks ago.


----------



## THE_Shev

Bought and paid for a Yamakasi Catleap Pixel Perfect on sunday 25/11/2012.
No shipping info or update yet of order on his site.
Monitor was in stock, waiting for his reply.


----------



## Mendax

Will the speaker in the Q270 affect any results or increase the chances of receiving a faulty monitor?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-WHITE-27inch-IPS-WQHD-2560-x-1440-Built-in-Speaker-/330755679078?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d02932366


----------



## BoredErica

No. But if you don't want the speakers, best to get without it.


----------



## Mendax

Hello everyone,

I was going to pull the trigger and buy 2 x http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-WHITE-27inch-IPS-WQHD-2560-x-1440-Built-in-Speaker-/330755679078?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d02932366

from dream-seller but I'm somewhat confused because he offers the same monitor at a higher price but the title is changed to [Free Voltage]+[Pixel Perfect]. Is this going to be a problem if I order the one without the fancy title?

Also for some weird reason dream-seller has listed the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 With Speakers cheaper than the one without speakers. This is shady and I am not 100% confident buying it.

Could someone possibly answer these questions and make me feel confident when buying the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 With Speakers from dream-seller?


----------



## gezer

Hey guys, does the Yamakasi have the same problems of the Crossover regarding pcb boards? I have a Crossover with the blue pcb board which causes flickering and stuttering on my display. I'm sending it back, thinking of switching to the Yamakasi.

What problems are there?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mendax*
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I was going to pull the trigger and buy 2 x http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-WHITE-27inch-IPS-WQHD-2560-x-1440-Built-in-Speaker-/330755679078?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d02932366
> from dream-seller but I'm somewhat confused because he offers the same monitor at a higher price but the title is changed to [Free Voltage]+[Pixel Perfect]. Is this going to be a problem if I order the one without the fancy title?
> Also for some weird reason dream-seller has listed the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 With Speakers cheaper than the one without speakers. This is shady and I am not 100% confident buying it.
> Could someone possibly answer these questions and make me feel confident when buying the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 With Speakers from dream-seller?


It makes no difference. It's an issue with supply and demand, more than likely; the ones without speakers are selling faster, so jack up the price a bit to make a bit more profit, slow demand and also to shift demand towards the speaker monitors, as now they're just sitting around doing nothing. (yes they're drop shipping; the logic is still sound for someone in the supply chain)

Free voltage + pixel perfect i guess is the seller's way of saying that you get a 110-240v adapter, and that someone looked at the panel and didn't see any bright pixels on a black background.


----------



## Koehler

The Yamakasi monitors without speakers are more popular because speakers add to monitor bulk.


----------



## bmac423

Do any of you guys know if there is a low-profile card that will work with the catleap? I don't intend on doing much gaming. I currently have a small form-factor case. My understanding is that any dual-link card should work.


----------



## RQ4369

Well, I have been a lurker for a while after hearing and seeing these monitors on TWIT. This thread helped me get this one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Q271-LED-2560X1440WQHD-27-S-IPS-Hdmi1-4a-Monitor-Built-in-speaker-/140796736007?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c823b207

Seller, green-sum, was prompt in replying to initial emails and had the tracking numbers up quickly.

I bought, it seems , before they went up in price. Mine was $372 shipped.

Ordered late last Saturday night here in Dallas, and was on my porch Wednesday 11am. Pretty quick, indeed.

Bundled for shipment like the pictures already posted.

No damage what-so-ever.
No dead pixils
No lines, no scars, no dings, no scratches.
I used the power cord from my 24" Viewsonic into the supplied brick and it fired right up.

Calibrated easily to my eyes and desires.

Stunning clarity and colors.

Base tilts and swivels, and yes, is a bit wobbly, but nothing that feels unstable or would be bothersome to me.

I have a AMD Radeon HD 6670 1GB DDR5 card and it pushes this monitor just fine.

I did download the Hazro HZ27WC manual to understand which menu item switched it to English.

Extremely happy with this monitor.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The Yamakasi monitors without speakers are more popular because speakers add to monitor bulk.


And they usually sound awful due to low output.


----------



## 44cmitchell

hi all,

i just received my catleap 2703, its the one with glass and only a DVI port yesterday. i'm running a GTX 670m and when I plug it into my computer i get a BSOD. I tested the monitor out on my friends desktop and the desktop picks up that it is there but the screen doesn't display anything. the power brick that came with it says input 170v-220v but there is a sticker that looks like it was placed by BCC before shipping that says 110v is ok. When I have it attatched to my laptop and the monitor turned off then i turn my laptop on then midway through the boot turn the monitor on it flashes vertical lines but nothing else. Any ideas? i have a video of the flash. not sure how to show you it though.

thanks, colton


----------



## Cavey00

Colton, I have the same monitor from the same vendor. My brick sounds the same, with the little sticker that says 120 ok. It's been working fine, except after being on a while the brick is "singing" for a bit. If the light on the brick is green and the monitor light flashes blue with no signal I doubt it's a brick problem. Did you try a different cable? Answering from my phone so I'm going off memory reading your post. Try a different dual link cable first. Not sure a laptop will do as a test machine.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RQ4369*
> 
> Well, I have been a lurker for a while after hearing and seeing these monitors on TWIT. This thread helped me get this one:
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Q271-LED-2560X1440WQHD-27-S-IPS-Hdmi1-4a-Monitor-Built-in-speaker-/140796736007?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c823b207
> Seller, green-sum, was prompt in replying to initial emails and had the tracking numbers up quickly.
> I bought, it seems , before they went up in price. Mine was $372 shipped.
> Ordered late last Saturday night here in Dallas, and was on my porch Wednesday 11am. Pretty quick, indeed.
> Bundled for shipment like the pictures already posted.
> No damage what-so-ever.
> No dead pixils
> No lines, no scars, no dings, no scratches.
> I used the power cord from my 24" Viewsonic into the supplied brick and it fired right up.
> Calibrated easily to my eyes and desires.
> Stunning clarity and colors.
> Base tilts and swivels, and yes, is a bit wobbly, but nothing that feels unstable or would be bothersome to me.
> I have a AMD Radeon HD 6670 1GB DDR5 card and it pushes this monitor just fine.
> I did download the Hazro HZ27WC manual to understand which menu item switched it to English.
> Extremely happy with this monitor.


Wow nice. Did you buy the perfect pixel guarantee?


----------



## RQ4369

No. I read all the listings for all these different brands, and if you notice on the one I bought the seller lists the brands and models that are having the most defects.

Also, I was wanting a little flexibility for connections, plus an OSD menu.


----------



## 44cmitchell

Quote:


> Colton, I have the same monitor from the same vendor. My brick sounds the same, with the little sticker that says 120 ok. It's been working fine, except after being on a while the brick is "singing" for a bit. If the light on the brick is green and the monitor light flashes blue with no signal I doubt it's a brick problem. Did you try a different cable? Answering from my phone so I'm going off memory reading your post. Try a different dual link cable first. Not sure a laptop will do as a test machine.


thank you for letting me know that and yes it is blinking blue, I'm glad that rules that out. I have tested the cable with a different monitor and it works fine so that rules that out......i think it may be DOA. what does the monitor look like in standby is there any turn on image or light coming from the monitor?


----------



## Badge56

That monitor will not work on most labtops. You need dual-DVI. Laptops usually DO NOT.


----------



## 44cmitchell

http://www.digitalstormonline.com/gaminglaptoploadx15E.asp?id=568680&price=%242%2C499

That's basically my laptop the x15e


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> That monitor will not work on most labtops. You need dual-DVI. Laptops usually DO NOT.


Some laptops like the Macbook Air do.


----------



## GrJohnso

Blinking blue is looking for a valid signal from your computer. As others have noted, most Intel based laptops do not support full 1440p resolution. Quite frustrating, as most mobile processors are more than capable of driving it, and do show a dual-link connector, but the hardware implementation is where it comes up short.

Definitely try that monitor out on a desktop machine with a working dual-link video card and cable before you think of sending it back.


----------



## 44cmitchell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GrJohnso*
> 
> Blinking blue is looking for a valid signal from your computer. As others have noted, most Intel based laptops do not support full 1440p resolution. Quite frustrating, as most mobile processors are more than capable of driving it, and do show a dual-link connector, but the hardware implementation is where it comes up short.
> 
> Definitely try that monitor out on a desktop machine with a working dual-link video card and cable before you think of sending it back.


it's a 2000 dollar laptop, it can support ii, especially through the display port. I am wondering though, if I plug it in to a a port that only supports DVI-I it should still run right? just at a lower resolution


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44cmitchell*
> 
> hi all,
> i just received my catleap 2703, its the one with glass and only a DVI port yesterday. i'm running a GTX 670m and when I plug it into my computer i get a BSOD. I tested the monitor out on my friends desktop and the desktop picks up that it is there but the screen doesn't display anything. the power brick that came with it says input 170v-220v but there is a sticker that looks like it was placed by BCC before shipping that says 110v is ok. When I have it attatched to my laptop and the monitor turned off then i turn my laptop on then midway through the boot turn the monitor on it flashes vertical lines but nothing else. Any ideas? i have a video of the flash. not sure how to show you it though.
> thanks, colton


Sounds like the DVI cable they gave you could be bad. Mine was and I bought a new one which helped.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44cmitchell*
> 
> it's a 2000 dollar laptop, it can support ii, especially through the display port. I am wondering though, if I plug it in to a a port that only supports DVI-I it should still run right? just at a lower resolution


I had this same thought when i was testing a while back. It won't work though. Also, how are you hooking it up to your laptop? Does your laptop even have a dual link dvi port or are you hooking it up another way?

Edit: Nevermind I see one on the back. That will not work with this monitor since it is only DVI-I.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Sounds like the DVI cable they gave you could be bad. Mine was and I bought a new one which helped.
> I had this same thought when i was testing a while back. It won't work though. Also, how are you hooking it up to your laptop? Does your laptop even have a dual link dvi port or are you hooking it up another way?
> Edit: Nevermind I see one on the back. That will not work with this monitor since it is only DVI-I.


DVI-I is kinda irrelevant.

The key is whether it's dual link or not. Which, according to the specifications, his laptop does not have a dual-link DVI port. (You can have Dual Link DVI-I ports as well as Dual Link DVI-D ports.)

As for the adapter you need, 44cmitchell, the amazon "Accell B087B-003J UltraAV miniDisplayPort/DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter" one is the correct adapter. The cheap one will not work.


----------



## blade7115

Has anyone bought the matte screen monitor?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Matte-Screen-Yamakasi-Catleap-HDMI-1-4a-Q271-LED-2560x1440-S-IPS-Monitor-HDMI-/140891848394?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20cdcefeca#ht_23268wt_1163

I want to buy this due to my monitor being very close to a window.


----------



## dpwracing

Just got my new Q271 with multi-mode, but I'm having a horrible time trying to get it to display in native 2560x1440!

First of all, I have an HD 6850 flashed to 6870 for the unlocked shaders. Runs fine, no problems. Running latest CCC drivers 12.10.

The problem is I only have the choice of resolution up to 1920x1080. I'm using the supplied Dual DVI cable so the cable shouldn't be an issue. I've tried both DVI ports as I understand only one of them can run the higher native resolution, but both have the same issue. I think it has to be a driver issue, but I've tried all sorts of stuff with no luck:

- Older ATI drivers as well as the current 12.11 beta
- The Yamasaki OC monitor driver (currently running the default Windows PnP driver)
- Powerstrip to try to add the 2560x1440 as a custom resolution. Didn't work, although both Powerstrip and Moninfo will detect the monitor's max resolution.

The only thing that makes sense to me is for some reason the graphics card driver isn't detecting the 2560x1440 profile that is held in the Detailed Timings section of the EDID. It only will pull the standard display modes which go up to 1920x1080, but not the non-standard mode where the 2560x1440 is stored.

Any ideas on what I can do? I've tried searching the forums but am all out of ideas. Anybody have a similar issue?


----------



## id_mew

Just got my Catleap Q270 today, and I'm very happy so far other than the wobbly stand that could snap at any second.
Just quick question, what's the best colour adjustment profile from Toastyx to use for gaming?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dpwracing*
> 
> Just got my new Q271 with multi-mode, but I'm having a horrible time trying to get it to display in native 2560x1440!
> First of all, I have an HD 6850 flashed to 6870 for the unlocked shaders. Runs fine, no problems. Running latest CCC drivers 12.10.
> The problem is I only have the choice of resolution up to 1920x1080. I'm using the supplied Dual DVI cable so the cable shouldn't be an issue. I've tried both DVI ports as I understand only one of them can run the higher native resolution, but both have the same issue. I think it has to be a driver issue, but I've tried all sorts of stuff with no luck:
> - Older ATI drivers as well as the current 12.11 beta
> - The Yamasaki OC monitor driver (currently running the default Windows PnP driver)
> - Powerstrip to try to add the 2560x1440 as a custom resolution. Didn't work, although both Powerstrip and Moninfo will detect the monitor's max resolution.
> The only thing that makes sense to me is for some reason the graphics card driver isn't detecting the 2560x1440 profile that is held in the Detailed Timings section of the EDID. It only will pull the standard display modes which go up to 1920x1080, but not the non-standard mode where the 2560x1440 is stored.
> Any ideas on what I can do? I've tried searching the forums but am all out of ideas. Anybody have a similar issue?


One of my friends had a problem similar to this, not on a catleap but it's still relevant.
Go into ccc and make a custom resolution or add it to the list of preset resolutions, I'm not sure the exact method since my friend was nvidia but go and have a look for things along those lines and give it a go.


----------



## dpwracing

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> One of my friends had a problem similar to this, not on a catleap but it's still relevant.
> Go into ccc and make a custom resolution or add it to the list of preset resolutions, I'm not sure the exact method since my friend was nvidia but go and have a look for things along those lines and give it a go.


Thanks, I just figured it out! It was a hardware issue. I have an Asus DirectCU II that has a DVI switch to change to dual DVI. Changed the switch, rebooted, and voila! Have full resolution.

Here's an article that references it and shows the picture. Hopefully this helps the next person.

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/asus_hd6950_2gb_directcu_ii_review,5.html


----------



## id_mew

How do I figure out if my Catleap can be overclocked to 120 hz?
I tried reading page after page but I can't find any info.
I'm running a single gtx 680.
Thanks.


----------



## ambig88

I just joined the club, and forum! Lots of great info. I received my Q270 today, and it phenomenal. Nice, bright display that is easy on the eyes. Great viewing angles. I wish the stand was better (and adjustable so I can point it down to me). I had a bit of time getting the monitor to work as I didn't realize my 6850 wouldn't drive my 23" 1920x1080 monitor in addition to this monitor. Anyway around this?

I love the monitor. Works great on my Hackintosh under Mac OS X and WIndows 7.


----------



## Badge56

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *44cmitchell*
> 
> it's a 2000 dollar laptop, it can support ii, especially through the display port. I am wondering though, if I plug it in to a a port that only supports DVI-I it should still run right? just at a lower resolution


You cant plug a Dual DVI cable in a display port. If in a DVI-I port it may work but not at 2560V1440.... no way. I have read that it does not work properly in a DVI-I port, only in Dual-DVI.
It may be $2000 but its still a labtop.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> How do I figure out if my Catleap can be overclocked to 120 hz?
> I tried reading page after page but I can't find any info.
> I'm running a single gtx 680.
> Thanks.


Did you buy it 8 months ago?
Did you pay ~$600 for it?

If both of these answers are no, then no, your Catleap is not overclockable.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Did you buy it 8 months ago?
> Did you pay ~$600 for it?
> If both of these answers are no, then no, your Catleap is not overclockable.


Yep, both answers are no








Thanks for the reply, saved me from breaking my display.


----------



## Hotshot619

Hello,
I am planning on picking up 3 Catleap's and was hoping to get some confirmation that I would be able to power them off my one Gigabyte 7970?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125413

I know I will need the active mDP to DVI-D adapters but my concern is strictly will i have enough sheer GPU power to effectively use 3 Catleap monitors or would I absolutism be required to get another for crossfire or change my GPU entirely?
Thank you

*Edit
My system will be:
Intel Core i5-3570K
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD3H
G.Skill Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory
Gigabyte HD7970 OC edition
Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5"
Samsung 840 SSD 120GB


----------



## noob255

Hey guys i took delivery of my yamakasi catleap q270 yesterday and until now everything has worked great but i just tryed to watch a blu ray on my ps3 and the screen kind of turns its self off the power light stays green and i can hear the movie sound in my headphones but there's nothing on the display. When i eject the blu ray the screen comes straight back on. Is this normal ? or have i gotten a potentially defective screen? Thanks in advance.

edit ive tryed detecting all the available screen settings and that hasn't helped and 1080p movies on the ps3's hard disk play perfectly.

edit 2: I just tryed a dvd and the screen just freaked out it went into power saving mode the green power light started flashing and when i tryed to get the screen to display from the dvi port my pc it wouldnt show that either. I had to go through the menu > misc> initialize for it to start working again.

Surely this isint normal?

Edit 3: just tryed a hdmi(ps3) to dvi cable(monitor) and the blu ray worked played fine so i tryed a dvd and i got the same result the screen goes into what i think is power saving mode.


----------



## 44cmitchell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Badge56*
> 
> You cant plug a Dual DVI cable in a display port. If in a DVI-I port it may work but not at 2560V1440.... no way. I have read that it does not work properly in a DVI-I port, only in Dual-DVI.
> It may be $2000 but its still a labtop.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> DVI-I is kinda irrelevant.
> The key is whether it's dual link or not. Which, according to the specifications, his laptop does not have a dual-link DVI port. (You can have Dual Link DVI-I ports as well as Dual Link DVI-D ports.)
> As for the adapter you need, 44cmitchell, the amazon "Accell B087B-003J UltraAV miniDisplayPort/DVI-D Dual-Link Adapter" one is the correct adapter. The cheap one will not work.


It being a laptop has nothing to do with it, the ports it comes with has everything to do with it. I bought a display port adapter so it shouldn't be a problem now, I'm pretty sure the monitor is still a DOA. i hooked it up to my friends desktop and it showed that it was connected but nothing displayed on the monitor.

side note to any purchasers. BCC (bigclothcraft) has been amazing dealing with this situation and troubleshooting it. I believe he will exchange it without a problem.


----------



## lckillah

Is there anyway to find out if I have a B series without opening the monitor? My serial number is Q270SE2E1LP0003 if that helps. I looked that serial number up on google and on this forum but no luck.


----------



## BoredErica

If you have a question, try this:

1. Read the first post in this thread
2. If you cannot find the answer, use "search this thread" feature to search what you need.
3. If you STILL can't find the answer, ask here.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lckillah*
> 
> Is there anyway to find out if I have a B series without opening the monitor? My serial number is Q270SE2E1LP0003 if that helps. I looked that serial number up on google and on this forum but no luck.


Did you buy it 8 months ago?
Did you pay ~$600 for it?
If both of these answers are no, then no, your Catleap is not overclockable. a "2B" model.


----------



## lckillah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Did you buy it 8 months ago?
> Did you pay ~$600 for it?
> If both of these answers are no, then no, your Catleap is not overclockable. a "2B" model.


I noticed that you underlined the overclockable there. I'm assuming you meant that I can only overclock it to 65hz right?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lckillah*
> 
> I noticed that you underlined the overclockable there. I'm assuming you meant that I can only overclock it to 65hz right?


Heh, it's a strikethough, not underlined. (an homage to my previous post about 10 posts up). And yes, you can't get beyond 67hz.

Really though, the "B" series (2B) only means that they were manufactured in February.


----------



## lckillah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Heh, it's a strikethough, not underlined. (an homage to my previous post about 10 posts up). And yes, you can't get beyond 67hz.
> Really though, the "B" series (2B) only means that they were manufactured in February.


Seems like that's the case. I just tried to overclock it using the method on the very first page. It wouldn't let me go past beyond 67hz. Anything above that I would get a bunch of lines on the screen or it would simply would not work.


----------



## Matt-Matt

What is the general sort of refresh rate these can typically do? 100+ Hz?
A friends mother is in hong kong and he asked me what he should get...


----------



## lckillah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> What is the general sort of refresh rate these can typically do? 100+ Hz?
> A friends mother is in hong kong and he asked me what he should get...


Like what others said, depends on the version. If you get a b version coupled with Gtx 680,then you can do 120hz. Mine is not a b version and I can only do 67hz with my Gtx 680


----------



## lckillah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> What is the general sort of refresh rate these can typically do? 100+ Hz?
> A friends mother is in hong kong and he asked me what he should get...


Like what others said, depends on the version. If you get a b version coupled with Gtx 680,then you can do 120hz. Mine is not a b version and I can only do 67hz with my Gtx 680


----------



## lckillah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> What is the general sort of refresh rate these can typically do? 100+ Hz?
> A friends mother is in hong kong and he asked me what he should get...


Like what others said, depends on the version. If you get a b version coupled with Gtx 680,then you can do 120hz. Mine is not a b version and I can only do 67hz with my Gtx 680


----------



## lckillah

Omg my phone went ballistic on that. Mods please delete the repeated posts.


----------



## Matt-Matt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lckillah*
> 
> Omg my phone went ballistic on that. Mods please delete the repeated posts.


Ah yes, what about a GTX670? I'd assume it'd be the same, either way he just said 27 inches is too big for him.








I'm considering one now if I get this traineeship..







I assume a 7950 should do the same sort of thing? 120Hz?

Also I know what you mean about double posts, or triple.. or quadruple. It happens on my Internet sometimes.


----------



## noob255

Can anyone offer some help with my blu ray issue?


----------



## robotbird

Got my Yamasaki catleap from Green-Sum on ebay and I am loving it. Postal delivery was fast and it came in bubble wrap to keep everything safe. Can't see any issues with dead pixels so far. The image it produces is so sexy I want to cry.

Had a few issues getting the monitor up and running but that was my fault as I didn't read the instruction manual for my GPU carefully enough.

Very glad that I took the risk and bought this monitor.


----------



## RQ4369

After testing and adjusting with a variety of of help links in this thread, I do have about 3-4 dead pixels(I did get 2-3 to re-engage) spread around and a little bleed through on the lower right edge, but, hell yes I like this screen!!

BluRay discs are breathtaking.

Picture is of my wallpaper, on my screen.


----------



## lckillah

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Ah yes, what about a GTX670? I'd assume it'd be the same, either way he just said 27 inches is too big for him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering one now if I get this traineeship..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume a 7950 should do the same sort of thing? 120Hz?
> Also I know what you mean about double posts, or triple.. or quadruple. It happens on my Internet sometimes.


I am not so sure about other GPU. Check the Q&A section in the first page of this thread, it mentions something about gtx 680 being the only one reaching 120hz or above I think... not sure though.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Matt-Matt*
> 
> Ah yes, what about a GTX670? I'd assume it'd be the same, either way he just said 27 inches is too big for him.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm considering one now if I get this traineeship..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I assume a 7950 should do the same sort of thing? 120Hz?
> Also I know what you mean about double posts, or triple.. or quadruple. It happens on my Internet sometimes.


99.9% of catleaps cannot do greater than 67hz refresh. The ones that can cost a lot more (600 or so). Assume whatever catleap you get is not 100 hz capable unless you pay The premium for it.


----------



## THE_Shev

Received my YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 MULTI 27" LED 2560X1440 S-IPS Monitor *Perfect Pixel from green-sum.
Paid 267euro and another 57euro rip-off for dhl Anyway still a reasonable price for that kind of monitor

A hint maybe to pay less tax, is to tell the seller to put price of the monitor and shipping apart on the invoice.
So the bastards will not charge you again shipping tax etc, i think.

Monitor came bubble wrapped with no damage on the outside.
Monitor is in perfect condition and a real beauty.

Only thing is that vesa mounting is a real pain in the ass to say the least, nevertheless managed to do so without any damage and is way better than the plastic stand.

Also have to say i ordered a multi input monitor and received a dual dvi only.
Maybe a refund can be asked

Overall very satisfied, hopefully still i a few years time.


----------



## 44cmitchell

SUCESSSSSSS!!!!!!!!

bought an active display port to DVI-D adapter. plugged her in and my god no BSOD and she looks beautiful. picture perfect, cant see any bleeding.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Anyone know of a good dual monitor arm/stand for a catleap q270 and a 23" 120hz monitor? Would really clear up some desk space if I could find one, thanks!


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Anyone know of a good dual monitor arm/stand for a catleap q270 and a 23" 120hz monitor? Would really clear up some desk space if I could find one, thanks!


Ergotron makes the best stands in my opinion.
And they are the most easily available for me.


----------



## BoredErica

*READ. THE. FIRST. PAGE. THEN. DO. A. THREAD. SEARCH. BEFORE. ASKING. THANK. YOU.







*

The overclocking question has been answered over and over, first page and many pages in the 900+ pages in this thread.


----------



## noob255

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> *READ. THE. FIRST. PAGE. THEN. DO. A. THREAD. SEARCH. BEFORE. ASKING. THANK. YOU.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *
> .


I have done as you said but no one seems to have any advice for my issue


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *THE_Shev*
> 
> Received my YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 MULTI 27" LED 2560X1440 S-IPS Monitor *Perfect Pixel from green-sum.
> Paid 267euro and another 57euro rip-off for dhl Anyway still a reasonable price for that kind of monitor
> *A hint maybe to pay less tax, is to tell the seller to put price of the monitor and shipping apart on the invoice.
> So the bastards will not charge you again shipping tax etc, i think.*


Pretty sure this doesn't work.


----------



## Durabo

Hey guys, i got my yamakasi catleap q270 SE today. Problem is it is stuck on black screen with green blinking led. My graphics card is msi hd7950 twinfrozr which has a dual link dvi. I am using the dual link dvi cable i know that works from my acer gd245hq - which btw still works with the cable-. I tried doing a clean install of my drivers, i tried running the screen without drivers, using only the yamakasi alone, using it with my acer plugged in hdmi and another screen plugged into one of the display ports, yamakasi plugged in to a display port with a converter, none of them worked. Nothing. Only the freaking green blinking dot. My computer does not see the screen at all, not even as a device with a problem in device manager.

I even opened up the screen and checked the cables, everything seemed fine. Note that i didn't open the casing holding the panel which has a lg sticker on it, just removed the thin metal cover on the pcb and checked the cable's there, all of them were plugged in tight. do i need to go in further because i did not see an easy way to unhook the big light grey cable with smaller ones inside, its a cable type i am not accustomed with and it seemed unpluggable. I have two crappy screenshots taken with my phone with weird angle's i will include them too. Cable i am talking about is the one on the second pic.

Please help, i really want to use my monitor and i cannot afford to send it back since customs in my country is a mess (also i already opened it since i was sure i can fix it).

Note: While i was uploading images, i saw the screens backlight blink twice, with at least 5 minutes interval between them. I also saw a Video Controller problematic device on device manager, uploading its screen too.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Does anyone have a video of the stand removal for the catleap q270? The images on the first post are decent, but a video would definitely aid me in some ways, my dual monitor arm will be arriving today - can't wait!


----------



## Kallio

Hi, I just got a Catleap. Lovely monitor, one little problem: the power brick makes the most annoying whine I've ever heard. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kallio*
> 
> Hi, I just got a Catleap. Lovely monitor, one little problem: the power brick makes the most annoying whine I've ever heard. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement?


I heard the whine goes away after a while. Otherwise I would look at some hardware stores.

You can always ship it back to Korea for a replacement.


----------



## noob255

Anyone having trouble watching blurays on the ps3 with this screen?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Well i ended up removing my stand yesterday for my q270se and my 120hz monitor and mounted them to my desk with a dual arm, it really was a breeze and the guide on here was extremely helpful, thanks!


----------



## Dash8Q4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Durabo*
> 
> Hey guys, i got my yamakasi catleap q270 SE today. Problem is it is stuck on black screen with green blinking led. My graphics card is msi hd7950 twinfrozr which has a dual link dvi. I am using the dual link dvi cable i know that works from my acer gd245hq - which btw still works with the cable-. I tried doing a clean install of my drivers, i tried running the screen without drivers, using only the yamakasi alone, using it with my acer plugged in hdmi and another screen plugged into one of the display ports, yamakasi plugged in to a display port with a converter, none of them worked. Nothing. Only the freaking green blinking dot. My computer does not see the screen at all, not even as a device with a problem in device manager.
> I even opened up the screen and checked the cables, everything seemed fine. Note that i didn't open the casing holding the panel which has a lg sticker on it, just removed the thin metal cover on the pcb and checked the cable's there, all of them were plugged in tight. do i need to go in further because i did not see an easy way to unhook the big light grey cable with smaller ones inside, its a cable type i am not accustomed with and it seemed unpluggable. I have two crappy screenshots taken with my phone with weird angle's i will include them too. Cable i am talking about is the one on the second pic.
> Please help, i really want to use my monitor and i cannot afford to send it back since customs in my country is a mess (also i already opened it since i was sure i can fix it).
> Note: While i was uploading images, i saw the screens backlight blink twice, with at least 5 minutes interval between them. I also saw a Video Controller problematic device on device manager, uploading its screen too.


oh man i feel for ya....it would be very unpleasant to receive a so awaited monitor to only find out it doesnt work...do you have an old video card laying around you could try? maybe ask a friend?
otherwise i dont know what else to tell you. Email the seller and see what he says. Good luck and keep us posted.

edit: reinstall your video drivers maybe? or uninstall them then when it asks to reboot, turn off the pc, connect the monitor, make sure its plugged in properly and turn the pc back on, hopefully it works. Also do you have another DDVI cable you can use? how bout another pc to plug the monitor into?
edit2: make sure you see a red light when u press the power button on the yamakasi....you should leave it pressed for a second, its not just press and let go...sometimes u have to make sure u press it in good, itll go red(im not sure) then green if theres no input....once you turn the pc on, it goes red, then green then shows the image....


----------



## crossbred900

After spending most of the day reading the last 30ish pages of this thread and multiple ebay listings I feel like my eyes are about to bleed. I was wondering why sellers, green-sum in particular, put up multiple listings for the same model but with different prices. Is it just to get a few more bucks from that one person who didn't notice another listing for cheaper? Am I missing a difference between these listings?

$449
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Built-in-speaker-Monitor-/140753494970?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c58fe3ba

$459
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-27-LED-2560X1440-IPS-Panel-WQHD-DVI-D-Speaker-Monitor-/121032430381?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2e18532d

In the amount of time I've spent typing this I noticed that the more expensive one has IPS. Not exactly sure what that is, and all the pictures look the same for every listing. I'm too burnt out to keep reading about this tonight. Is IPS worth the added cost.


----------



## plum

^ both are exactly the same panel/model. both are IPS.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossbred900*
> 
> After spending most of the day reading the last 30ish pages of this thread and multiple ebay listings I feel like my eyes are about to bleed. I was wondering why sellers, green-sum in particular, put up multiple listings for the same model but with different prices. Is it just to get a few more bucks from that one person who didn't notice another listing for cheaper? Am I missing a difference between these listings?
> $449
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Built-in-speaker-Monitor-/140753494970?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c58fe3ba
> $459
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-27-LED-2560X1440-IPS-Panel-WQHD-DVI-D-Speaker-Monitor-/121032430381?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c2e18532d
> In the amount of time I've spent typing this I noticed that the more expensive one has IPS. Not exactly sure what that is, and all the pictures look the same for every listing. I'm too burnt out to keep reading about this tonight. Is IPS worth the added cost.


They're the same monitor. There's also a version of the Yamakasi Catleap which comes with a scaler and HDMI however at the cost of increased input lag.

I would get the original Yamakasi Catleap over the version with the scaler unless you absolutely must need a scaler.


----------



## FabsSpeed

Hello everyone ...

I searched around but did not find a real answer and hope you can help me ... I am building a new PC with a GTX690 and would like to get two new monitors ... now would you buy the:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-x2pcs-/140746224306?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c520f2b2#ht_36903wt_1102

or two of the new retina ones? Anyone has these running ?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q271-RETINA-LED-FullHD-27-S-IPS-2560X1440-HDMI-PIP-Monitor-/140883649720?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20cd51e4b8

Thanks
Fabian


----------



## Cully

Hello all, i just ordered a CATLEAP Q270 SEi 27 today.
Anyone running an MSI 660ti twin frozr or similar card with one?
Im assuming ill have to drop down from ultra settings to run the likes of BF3 etc @ 2560X1440?
Just wondering if anyone has a similar card and what settings they can run with BF3 for example,


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FabsSpeed*
> 
> Hello everyone ...
> I searched around but did not find a real answer and hope you can help me ... I am building a new PC with a GTX690 and would like to get two new monitors ... now would you buy the:
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Computer-Monitor-x2pcs-/140746224306?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20c520f2b2#ht_36903wt_1102
> or two of the new retina ones? Anyone has these running ?
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q271-RETINA-LED-FullHD-27-S-IPS-2560X1440-HDMI-PIP-Monitor-/140883649720?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item20cd51e4b8
> Thanks
> Fabian


The retina is just them taking advantage of stupid people. A 2560x1440 display is not retina at all or anywhere close to it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> Hello all, i just ordered a CATLEAP Q270 SEi 27 today.
> Anyone running an MSI 660ti twin frozr or similar card with one?
> Im assuming ill have to drop down from ultra settings to run the likes of BF3 etc @ 2560X1440?
> Just wondering if anyone has a similar card and what settings they can run with BF3 for example,


It should be playable around 60fps. The best thing to do with 2560x1440 is turn the AA to 2x or off and use fxaa. Looks really clean.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> The retina is just them taking advantage of stupid people. A 2560x1440 display is not retina at all or anywhere close to it.
> It should be playable around 60fps. The best thing to do with 2560x1440 is turn the AA to 2x or off and use fxaa. Looks really clean.


What "retina"?

Surely you're not talking about Apple's retina displays.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> What "retina"?
> Surely you're not talking about Apple's retina displays.


These sellers are just taking advantage of people who don't know what retina display means. These monitors don't have a high enough PPI to be considered a retina display.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> What "retina"?
> Surely you're not talking about Apple's retina displays.
> 
> 
> 
> These sellers are just taking advantage of people who don't know what retina display means. These monitors don't have a high enough PPI to be considered a retina display.
Click to expand...

You sure, retina has no real ppi measurements...It's whatever Apple sees fit, surprised they haven't called their iPad mini "retina"yet


----------



## noob255

Can someone hook up their ps3 and tell me if they can watch blurays?


----------



## borgqueenx

A screen is retina when you can view at it and cant count or see the pixels.
The distance between eyes and screen varies over screen size but im sure you huys dont need a explanation a 27inch screen isnt viewed from 15cm distance like a iphone.


----------



## Durabo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lokito50*
> 
> oh man i feel for ya....it would be very unpleasant to receive a so awaited monitor to only find out it doesnt work...do you have an old video card laying around you could try? maybe ask a friend?
> otherwise i dont know what else to tell you. Email the seller and see what he says. Good luck and keep us posted.
> edit: reinstall your video drivers maybe? or uninstall them then when it asks to reboot, turn off the pc, connect the monitor, make sure its plugged in properly and turn the pc back on, hopefully it works. Also do you have another DDVI cable you can use? how bout another pc to plug the monitor into?
> edit2: make sure you see a red light when u press the power button on the yamakasi....you should leave it pressed for a second, its not just press and let go...sometimes u have to make sure u press it in good, itll go red(im not sure) then green if theres no input....once you turn the pc on, it goes red, then green then shows the image....


I tried it with my gtx460 too, it doesnt work. I used the dual link dvi cable from my acer gd245hq, it still doesnt work. I reinstalled the drivers, uninstall them and tried the monitor, it still doesnt work







I also tried monitor on another pc which has a hd5870, it didnt work on that either. I tried holding the power button until it turned red, then green and then it went blinking again. So basically i already tried all of your advice before i even made the first post. Still, i am grateful for your help. I talked with the seller (green-sum), he said he is going to give me a replacement,i am now waiting for him to arrange the shipping.

I will probably pay taxes again for this monitor when it comes back... And my father needs another one of these monitors, this time i am thinking of getting the crossover one with the pivot stand, and also hoping that they does not have this fricking issue too, can anyone confirm that? Also does accessorieswhole or any other dealer actually open up the box, connect it to a pc and try if it works? That would really help me out since customs in the country i live in is a mess. By the way, i have nothing against green-sum, he has been very helpful, i just need the next one i order actually works before it arrives here, i dont want to go through this again.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borgqueenx*
> 
> A screen is retina when you can view at it and cant count or see the pixels.
> The distance between eyes and screen varies over screen size but im sure you huys dont need a explanation a 27inch screen isnt viewed from 15cm distance like a iphone.


Highly debatable. There are some people who can see pixels better than others because they have different visual performance.

Apple's "retina" is just another marketing gimmick.


----------



## lckillah

I saw this link on youtube where a yamakasi user connected his ps3 to his monitor






But he doesn't have any instructions... it just says HDMI, though my model doesn't have an HDMI output. Could it be that he is using a model with HDMI output? I read somehwere here on the forums that it cannot be done but now I can see that there is some hope as I would like to use this monitor with my ps3 and xbox 360 as well.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lckillah*
> 
> I saw this link on youtube where a yamakasi user connected his ps3 to his monitor
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But he doesn't have any instructions... it just says HDMI, though my model doesn't have an HDMI output. Could it be that he is using a model with HDMI output? I read somehwere here on the forums that it cannot be done but now I can see that there is some hope as I would like to use this monitor with my ps3 and xbox 360 as well.


Yes you need a model with HDMI output and also a scaler (1:1) although this would significantly increase input lag as with all monitors with scalers.


----------



## TheInternal

Google's been letting me down on this question:

Would two Geforce 670 GTX cards in 2-way SLI adequately power three monitors for modern titles like Borderlands 2? Also, each of my cards only have 2 DVI ports each, HDMI, and a display port. I already have one Yamakasi 2703 which only has DVI.

From what I understand, you have to connect all monitors to the same card for surround SLI. I also am under the impression the monitors all have to be the same. How could I get three 2703s hooked up to only 2 DVI ports? Are there adapters that would work?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheInternal*
> 
> Google's been letting me down on this question:
> Would two Geforce 670 GTX cards in 2-way SLI adequately power three monitors for modern titles like Borderlands 2? Also, each of my cards only have 2 DVI ports each, HDMI, and a display port. I already have one Yamakasi 2703 which only has DVI.
> From what I understand, you have to connect all monitors to the same card for surround SLI. I also am under the impression the monitors all have to be the same. How could I get three 2703s hooked up to only 2 DVI ports? Are there adapters that would work?


I think there are dual-link DVI adapters.

However in terms of three monitors for gaming, I'm sure that two Geforce 670 GTX's in SLI can power 3 monitors gaming.


----------



## Klouczech

Do you think Its possible to run 2560x1440 with GeForce GTX 260 ?
Specification: Maximum Digital Resolution is 2560x1600.

What is the best performance/prize South Korean monitor in these days?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Do you think Its possible to run 2560x1440 with GeForce GTX 260 ?
> Specification: Maximum Digital Resolution is 2560x1600.
> What is the best performance/prize South Korean monitor in these days?


Yes with desktop and browsing.

But the GTX 260 probably won't run games at ultra high at 1440p resolution. You need at least a GTX 560 Ti for that or higher.


----------



## Klouczech

Thanks for quick response.

I don't want to have ultrahigh graphics settings.

Do you think that GTX 470 is also not enough?
What about 470 in SLI?

Does anyone know, what is the best performance/prize South Korean monitor in these days?


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> Thanks for quick response.
> I don't want to have ultrahigh graphics settings.
> Do you think that GTX 470 is also not enough?
> What about 470 in SLI?
> Does anyone know, what is the best performance/prize South Korean monitor in these days?


Crossover is the best quality but obviously more expensive. They are all pretty much the same, I would pick up the $320 ShiMian if I had to.


----------



## Stefy

Anyone knows if you can get one of these in Europe?


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Crossover is the best quality but obviously more expensive. They are all pretty much the same, I would pick up the $320 ShiMian if I had to.


I red that ShiMian had bad stand, right?

Is the Yamakasi Catleap the only possible korean monitor to overclock?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I red that ShiMian had bad stand, right?
> Is the Yamakasi Catleap the only possible korean monitor to overclock?


Catleaps have worse stands.

Don't count on over clocking unless you're willing to pay $600+ for a Catleap. But yes, Catleap are the only Korean monitor capable of over clocking.


----------



## ackack47

Well, I didn't realize what this club form was actually for, but now I regret not filling it out all the way. Anyways, I absolutely loved my monitor for a few months I've had it. I bought it mid August and about 2 weeks ago it broke on me. What it does is it fades to black. The higher the resolution, the more often it does it, eventually staying black if there is "to much" on the screen. At first I thought the factor was brightness, since bringing up a blank text document full screen (all white screen) would perma-black the screen until I click the close button (which is easy enough w/o looking at the screen) but that became inconsistent. I have a couple videos of it on youtube (link only). Shipping costs way to much to ship it back to get it fixed, as the seller already asked me to do so (Dream-Seller).

Hopefully someone has fixed this or knows how to?!






And...






This happens on anything plugged into the monitor at any resolution. (HDMI/DVI XBOX/desktop/laptop)

For how much I loved this monitor (wish I found a black one) and that it broke on me, I will be buying another if I can't get this fixed since it will be cheaper than the shipping both ways. Thanks guys for reading all this.


----------



## TwiggLe

Sorry to hear that.. This is exactly what has kept me from getting one of these.. I would rather pay like $200 more and get something like this...
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242
or
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236294

Just for that piece of mind.


----------



## ackack47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TwiggLe*
> 
> Sorry to hear that.. This is exactly what has kept me from getting one of these.. I would rather pay like $200 more and get something like this...
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824176242
> or
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236294
> Just for that piece of mind.


Well, my Yamakasi was 370$, thats way cheaper, but only if it lasted. It was the one with multiple inputs

Also, I didn't know Asus made a 1440p monitor, neato.


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I don't want to have ultrahigh graphics settings.
> Do you think that GTX 470 is also not enough?


My GeForce GTX 460 768MB 192-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 has no problem displaying on my Q270 and the darkplaces Quake engine runs 60+ fps with practically all graphics except AA (which isn't needed) on the highest settings and with large textures. I can't comment on any other games.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I red that ShiMian had bad stand, right?
> Is the Yamakasi Catleap the only possible korean monitor to overclock?


Catleap has worse stand than Shimian. You might want to check overlord tempest too.
Tbh I wouldn't buy any of those koreans except shimian for $320~. Nobody really lives in Korea and most countries have taxes etc. bringing the crossover price to around $450 if you cheat which is very close to $620 Dell, far too superior to them. Those monitors are only worth it if you are really poor or buying more of them but again, if you are poor you probably don't have the power to run anything else then movies/low games.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I red that ShiMian had bad stand, right?
> Is the Yamakasi Catleap the only possible korean monitor to overclock?
> 
> 
> 
> Catleap has worse stand than Shimian. You might want to check overlord tempest too.
> Tbh I wouldn't buy any of those koreans except shimian for $320~. Nobody really lives in Korea and most countries have taxes etc. bringing the crossover price to around $450 if you cheat which is very close to $620 Dell, far too superior to them. Those monitors are only worth it if you are really poor or buying more of them but again, if you are poor you probably don't have the power to run anything else then movies/low games.
Click to expand...

Everything you just said was wrong and ignorant


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackack47*
> 
> Well, I didn't realize what this club form was actually for, but now I regret not filling it out all the way. Anyways, I absolutely loved my monitor for a few months I've had it. I bought it mid August and about 2 weeks ago it broke on me. What it does is it fades to black. The higher the resolution, the more often it does it, eventually staying black if there is "to much" on the screen. At first I thought the factor was brightness, since bringing up a blank text document full screen (all white screen) would perma-black the screen until I click the close button (which is easy enough w/o looking at the screen) but that became inconsistent. I have a couple videos of it on youtube (link only). Shipping costs way to much to ship it back to get it fixed, as the seller already asked me to do so (Dream-Seller).
> 
> Hopefully someone has fixed this or knows how to?!
> 
> This happens on anything plugged into the monitor at any resolution. (HDMI/DVI XBOX/desktop/laptop)
> 
> For how much I loved this monitor (wish I found a black one) and that it broke on me, I will be buying another if I can't get this fixed since it will be cheaper than the shipping both ways. Thanks guys for reading all this.


Hmm. I would have to guess that is a problem with the board that handles the signal processing, but when it fades out it makes me think it's a problem with the led backlight board like the shimians have. Can the seller possibly do something with shipping you replacement boards? Have you opened it up to see if anything looks fried?

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## ackack47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cavey00*
> 
> Hmm. I would have to guess that is a problem with the board that handles the signal processing, but when it fades out it makes me think it's a problem with the led backlight board like the shimians have. Can the seller possibly do something with shipping you replacement boards? Have you opened it up to see if anything looks fried?
> Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk 2


Only thing Dream-Seller has offered me so far was shipping it back to them for repairs. If I can't fix it or get replacement boards I may have to do that through USPS. Went to UPS today and every option was over 500$ to ship it there. They said it will be $100 something through USPS to ship it there, but I don't know about the return shipping. I'll open it up and look around. How much do these parts cost do you think? Thanks for the help.

Edit: Just took it apart and checked out every PCB. Nothing looks flawed. Looks like I may have to ship it to South Korea


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackack47*
> 
> Only thing Dream-Seller has offered me so far was shipping it back to them for repairs. If I can't fix it or get replacement boards I may have to do that through USPS. Went to UPS today and every option was over 500$ to ship it there. They said it will be $100 something through USPS to ship it there, but I don't know about the return shipping. I'll open it up and look around. How much do these parts cost do you think? Thanks for the help.
> Edit: Just took it apart and checked out every PCB. Nothing looks flawed. Looks like I may have to ship it to South Korea


Damn, well it was worth a try IMO. 100 bucks still seems cheap, even through USPS. I don't know how much those boards cost, but if nothing looks fried I don't think it's worth throwing parts at it if you are not sure what's wrong. It has a one year warranty on it from the manufacturer (or should at least) so if DreamSeller finds it to be faulty I would think that he would cover the shipping both ways. If nothing else the shipping back to you should be covered. It's been said before, the shipping is the deal breaker if something goes wrong. That's what forced my hand on the extra warranty purchase. Mine flickers the backlight every once in a while for just a few seconds and it makes me happy that I don't have to worry about anything. I'm sorry for guys in your situation. If you are anything like me, you will feel the loss if your monitor situation goes completely south.


----------



## Pogi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Catleap has worse stand than Shimian. You might want to check overlord tempest too.
> Tbh I wouldn't buy any of those koreans except shimian for $320~. Nobody really lives in Korea and most countries have taxes etc. bringing the crossover price to around $450 if you cheat which is very close to $620 Dell, far too superior to them. Those monitors are only worth it if you are really poor or buying more of them but again, if you are poor you probably don't have the power to run anything else then movies/low games.


looks @ layo's rig... poor is right.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pogi*
> 
> looks @ layo's rig... poor is right.


I don't really get it









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Everything you just said was wrong and ignorant


Educate me then, please


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Catleap has worse stand than Shimian. You might want to check overlord tempest too.
> Tbh I wouldn't buy any of those koreans except shimian for $320~. Nobody really lives in Korea and most countries have taxes etc. bringing the crossover price to around $450 if you cheat which is very close to $620 Dell, far too superior to them. Those monitors are only worth it if you are really poor or buying more of them but again, if you are poor you probably don't have the power to run anything else then movies/low games.


I dont feel so poor. I only want to get informations first and then choose the best offer.
I want to upgrade my computer but dont want to buy overpriced HW...


----------



## Cully

I must say im getting very nervous reading the last few pages, i ordered a catleap Q270 sei on Friday last.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> I must say im getting very nervous reading the last few pages, i ordered a catleap Q270 sei on Friday last.


I hope you will enjoy wasting $430+ on this, I wish you the best and hopefully it won't die after few weeks.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> I hope you will enjoy wasting $430+ on this, I wish you the best and hopefully it won't die after few weeks.


Doomsayer much? I've had my Catleap since March 2012, and sans minor glitches (usually remedied by ensuring the cables are secure), I've had no issues.

Just survived a move and everything. Sure, it put it all back in its box, but still.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> Doomsayer much? I've had my Catleap since March 2012, and sans minor glitches (usually remedied by ensuring the cables are secure), I've had no issues.
> Just survived a move and everything. Sure, it put it all back in its box, but still.


That's pretty much unheard off, $400 monitor lasting 9 months (like some kind of achievement),4 months till it dies








Tbh if the U2713HM didn't drop to $620 I would go with shimian or crossover and count down 1 year till it dies or pick some 120hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> That's pretty much unheard off, $400 monitor lasting 9 months (like some kind of achievement),4 months till it dies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh if the U2713HM didn't drop to $620 I would go with shimian or crossover and count down 1 year till it dies or pick some 120hz.


Woah there. That's the _norm_. Even though some people's monitors are no longer working, I can say with confidence most people's are working just fine. Mine included - and I've been fiddling with mine more than most, seeing as how mine goes up to ~115 hz. It's been 9 months now and it still works fine. The only problem? My front pane of tempered glass fell off and I had to tape it back on with better double sided tape. Yes, the Dell U2713hm is higher quality, but that doesn't mean that these things are all gonna die right away.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> That's pretty much unheard off, $400 monitor lasting 9 months (like some kind of achievement),4 months till it dies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh if the U2713HM didn't drop to $620 I would go with shimian or crossover and count down 1 year till it dies or pick some 120hz.


Monitors like these have been around for several years. They are just now getting popular. I know several people that have monitors from around 2010 that are made by some random korean brand, are 1440p and are still working.

This whole Catleap thing isn't something new. I have no doubt that they will go for more than a year unless you abused them or something. You do realize that these things are exactly the same as a normal monitor minus the fact that they may have some screen imperfections, right?


----------



## Rayleyne

I've dropped mine, DIssasembled it, Done all sorts of horrid unspeakable evil things to mine and it still works, Alas my desktop is dying as is my laptop and i've not the money to replace either (Only the case on my laptop is dying, Where as my desktop's mobo is going out, Turns out the Z77 sabertooth not so tough afterall)

Has anyone ever used this with an active mini dp to Dual link DVI adapter with success?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> I don't really get it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Educate me then, please


First of all you said most countries have taxes that make these monitors $450? Most people on this site are in the USA, which makes alot of these monitors $330-$350, not $450, second you said you have to be POOR to buy one of these? I'm definitely not poor and mine has been running strong for almost a year since I got it. Third, you said if you were buying these not only were you poor you wouldn't have a system to run it anyways, well my system absolutely crushes yours...and runs it just fine. But keep stereotyping, you only look like an idiot


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> First of all you said most countries have taxes that make these monitors $450? Most people on this site are in the USA, which makes alot of these monitors $330-$350, not $450, second you said you have to be POOR to buy one of these? I'm definitely not poor and mine has been running strong for almost a year since I got it. Third, you said if you were buying these not only were you poor you wouldn't have a system to run it anyways, well my system absolutely crushes yours...and runs it just fine. But keep stereotyping, you only look like an idiot


You didn't even get what did I say. Yes, your rig is way better, why would you go with cheap korean toy if you can buy expensive and high quality ones? If I had that rig I wouldn't let it run monitor like this even if you got lucky and didn't get that bad piece. I'm sure those 900 pages arn't about how awesome those catleaps are.

I bet you wouldn't be so proud of you screen if you got bad one and had to pay $100's to ship it back and wait weeks for it and even bother with the sellers trying to explain you that "you are holding it wrong, go away"


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> You didn't even get what did I say. Yes, your rig is way better, why would you go with cheap korean toy if you can buy expensive and high quality ones? If I had that rig I wouldn't let it run monitor like this even if you got lucky and didn't get that bad piece. I'm sure those 900 pages arn't about how awesome those catleaps are.
> I bet you wouldn't be so proud of you screen if you got bad one and had to pay $100's to ship it back and wait weeks for it and even bother with the sellers trying to explain you that "you are holding it wrong, go away"


Let's see...why would I spend half the price for essentially the same monitor? Gee, I dunno, because it's a great deal? No sickening AG coating and It's also one of the only monitors in the world(overlord tempest OC too) that can overclock to [email protected]? Good luck doing that on your Dell, And actually, those 900+ pages are basically saying how awesome the Catleaps are, I've read almost the entire thread


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> You didn't even get what did I say. Yes, your rig is way better, why would you go with cheap korean toy if you can buy expensive and high quality ones? If I had that rig I wouldn't let it run monitor like this even if you got lucky and didn't get that bad piece. I'm sure those 900 pages arn't about how awesome those catleaps are.


Honestly, I went with this monitor because Dell uses crappy AG coating which makes their screens look horrible.

I'll summarize the 900 pages for you. It's people asking the same dumb questions, posting stuff about other monitors that have nothing to do with this club but everyone comes here and pollutes this thread with crap because it's the most popular one.

If you want to hate on this monitor, take it somewhere else, because nothing you've said so far is true minus the fact that you said they are cheaper.


----------



## y2kcamaross

.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> You didn't even get what did I say. Yes, your rig is way better, why would you go with cheap korean toy if you can buy expensive and high quality ones? If I had that rig I wouldn't let it run monitor like this even if you got lucky and didn't get that bad piece. I'm sure those 900 pages arn't about how awesome those catleaps are.
> I bet you wouldn't be so proud of you screen if you got bad one and had to pay $100's to ship it back and wait weeks for it and even bother with the sellers trying to explain you that "you are holding it wrong, go away"


No one is arguing that Dell's support and warranty isn't better. Frankly, for anyone to disagree would be stupid. Dell's warranty is waaaaaaay better. Dell's support is waaaaaaay better. Dell's U2712hm monitor, in general, actually is a better monitor. If you're trying to convince us that you have a better monitor by going Dell, I doubt people would argue much if at all. Congratulations on your superior monitor. (for the most part anyways, my particular Catleap is still better







)

As to why not pay the extra for a better monitor? Same reason why people don't all go for GTX 680/HD 7970 GHz and I7 3770k systems. Because the marignal benefit isn't worth the extra money that we'd have to spend. Are these screens as good? Of course not! But _Dell's monitors aren't $300-500 better._ That is to say, the marginal utility of the extra $300 isn't worth it to a lot of people. I'm certainly not going to spend more money than I have to. Especially since I actually got a better monitor than Dell could give me, and for half the list price.


----------



## Layo

Notice how everyone skips the part where I am right and just picks the "wrong ones" by their opinions or because they don't even get what am I saying thinking how beast trade by getting 1440p for $200 cheaper they made. Fine, keep your opinions, won't argue with stupid, worse then pre school.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Notice how everyone skips the part where I am right and just picks the "wrong ones" by their opinions or because they don't even get what am I saying thinking how beast trade by getting 1440p for $200 cheaper they made. Fine, keep your opinions, won't argue with stupid, worse then pre school.


*than

It's a matter of getting a good deal, and half the fun is taking a risk. Just because you got a bad one (or whatever your issue is) it doesn't mean all are bad.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Notice how everyone skips the part where I am right and just picks the "wrong ones" by their opinions or because they don't even get what am I saying thinking how beast trade by getting 1440p for $200 cheaper they made. Fine, keep your opinions, won't argue with stupid, worse then pre school.


Wait, what? Which is the part that you're referring to where you're right? I have no idea what you're even trying to say now.


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> You didn't even get what did I say. Yes, your rig is way better, why would you go with cheap korean toy if you can buy expensive and high quality ones? If I had that rig I wouldn't let it run monitor like this even if you got lucky and didn't get that bad piece. I'm sure those 900 pages arn't about how awesome those catleaps are.
> I bet you wouldn't be so proud of you screen if you got bad one and had to pay $100's to ship it back and wait weeks for it and even bother with the sellers trying to explain you that "you are holding it wrong, go away"


And i bet you would be angry if you spent a thousand dollars on one from dell that has An anti glare coating the thickness of a brick on it, Break and have to send that back.

No thanks, My Korean IPS display is every bit as good as the LG one, And i'll put it here, MY RIG Trumps yours, and i use 2 korean IPS displays

Oh wait, Is buying into a name meant to make me better? I forgot, Guess i need to use Brand name bedsheets, And a brand name car, And a brand name this and that, To be awesome like you.

oh and one last thing, Expensive =/= Quality, I've had 2 Sabertooth boards die out on me and they are the upper end of the 1155 cost, Well they were, ASwell as a dozen other top end boards, AS with everything cost does not dictate whether it'll die in 3 days or 3 years.

Tl;DR, Dells displays aren't worth the price premium imo, I'm an australian, It cost me 630 bucks FOR TWO 1440p's that use THE EXACT SAME PANEL, Where as i'd still not get a single 1440p from dell.

Now back ontopic, Has anyone used an active Mini dp to Dual link DVI adapter with one successfully?


----------



## Hamy144

Everything just said i agree with apart from one point, it's a different panel to the ones in dells but the same as in the apple displays


----------



## TheInternal

http://www.overclock.net/t/1297550/dual-catleap-monitors-hinged-together-and-housing-removed-but-mac-mini-wont-recognize-both

It looks like the mini DP to DVI worked for that fellow on that model of screen. I'm curious if someone has done similar with the 2703.


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Let's see...why would I spend half the price for essentially the same monitor? Gee, I dunno, because it's a great deal? No sickening AG coating and It's also one of the only monitors in the world(overlord tempest OC too) that can overclock to [email protected]? Good luck doing that on your Dell, And actually, those 900+ pages are basically saying how awesome the Catleaps are, I've read almost the entire thread


I thought only certain Catleaps could do 60+ hz and it wasn't guaranteed (and unless they changed it, I thought it voided the warrenty for Overlord models).

No idea why people hating on the U2711, its a different panel with different backlighting.

I got my mom one of those because the LED backlit monitors would give her a headache.

Just fixed up an Apple Cinema monitor and it's okay, wasn't really wowed since I've been using U2711's at work.

Stilling looking for a 120hz 1440 monitor.


----------



## stn0092

I ordered a Yamakasi Q271 (eBay link) from dream-seller. It shipped Monday and arrived 10 minutes ago.

No dead pixels. There is a bit of yellowing tint at the bottom right corner, but it's not noticeable unless I'm looking at it on a dark background; it's off in my peripheral vision when I'm looking at the center of the screen and is . The bottom edge of the bezel is separated from the screen; I'm not sure how to go about fixing that. It's not even noticeable unless I'm standing up and looking straight down at it.

I'm not entirely happy though. I was expecting a glossy screen, but the Q271 has a matte finish.

Colors still look amazing compared to my Samsung 2493HM. As everyone else has said, the build quality of the Korean monitors aren't the greatest. I've dropped my 2493HM on concrete before and it survived with a light scuff on the corner. I'd expect the Yamakasi to shatter to pieces if I ever dropped it.

*Just how much better would it look without the matte finished?*


----------



## Layo

How do you even drop monitor?


----------



## stn0092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> How do you even drop monitor?


Moving into an apartment during the first week of college.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stn0092*
> 
> Moving into an apartment during the first week of college.


$400 box isn't worth some special care? I feel like im the only one acting nice to my stuff...


----------



## stn0092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> $400 box isn't worth some special care? I feel like im the only one acting nice to my stuff...


Accidents happen. Does it really matter that I dropped a monitor? Can we get back to my question?

Matte vs. glossy Q270/Q271. How much does it affect color? Aside from the matte finish, I pretty much have a perfectly functional Q271.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stn0092*
> 
> Accidents happen. Does it really matter that I dropped a monitor? Can we get back to my question?
> Matte vs. glossy Q270/Q271. How much does it affect color? Aside from the matte finish, I pretty much have a perfectly functional Q271.


A glossy panel will always have better image quality and color reproduction.

Matte will significantly reduce image quality. Color reproduction also takes a hit but not as much as image quality.


----------



## kevinsbane

A glossy panel will decrease your image quality in brightly lit situations. Matte has some degradation in the form of graininess on light colours. Colour reproduction is not affected.

Edit: Matte has varying degrees of graininess. Some is almost unnoticeable, some is quite significant (Re: Dell U2711).


----------



## BoredErica

Glossy screens have colors that pop. It can get bright and vibrant. Personally, I'd never go back to a matte, I've always liked glossy.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> A glossy panel will decrease your image quality in brightly lit situations. Matte has some degradation in the form of graininess on light colours. Colour reproduction is not affected.
> Edit: Matte has varying degrees of graininess. Some is almost unnoticeable, some is quite significant (Re: Dell U2711).


Glossy panels have much better image quality than corresponding matte panels. That is a fact.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Glossy panels have much better image quality than corresponding matte panels. That is a fact.


Alas. Because this never happens. Glossy screens have their own (different) problems with image quality.
Quote:


> Glossy screens have colors that pop. It can get bright and vibrant. Personally, I'd never go back to a matte, I've always liked glossy.


My catleap drives me crazy when I notice the reflections (ie, every time there's a dark background, I see myself)







I actually use my U2312hm for general browsing and such more than my Catleap - partly because, well, I like it better for that. Of course, the Catleap looks better when playing games so long as the image is relatively free of dark areas, but I put up with those times since 1440p + 8bit looks good, and glossy does have its place.


----------



## id_mew

Ever since I got my Catleap about 2 weeks agao, my eyes have been really hurting me.
I had a Dell 24 inch 1080p monitor for 4 years and it never bothered my eyes.
Does anybody feel the same? is it becasue it's too bright?


----------



## FattyMcFatFatFatty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> Ever since I got my Catleap about 2 weeks agao, my eyes have been really hurting me.
> I had a Dell 24 inch 1080p monitor for 4 years and it never bothered my eyes.
> Does anybody feel the same? is it becasue it's too bright?


You can turn down the brightness... if its still not low enough for you, you can turn it down in your graphics card driver


----------



## needslipo

I bought a Q270 back in early August and was really happy with it. I just bought a second to dual monitor (same model: Q270) but this one has a very warm, yellowish color profile compared to my first. which was nearly perfect out of the box.

My question is: will the warm tint go away with use or will I need to set a color profile for the new monitor?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *needslipo*
> 
> I bought a Q270 back in early August and was really happy with it. I just bought a second to dual monitor (same model: Q270) but this one has a very warm, yellowish color profile compared to my first. which was nearly perfect out of the box.
> 
> My question is: will the warm tint go away with use or will I need to set a color profile for the new monitor?


You'll need to set a color profile


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *id_mew*
> 
> Ever since I got my Catleap about 2 weeks agao, my eyes have been really hurting me.
> I had a Dell 24 inch 1080p monitor for 4 years and it never bothered my eyes.
> Does anybody feel the same? is it becasue it's too bright?


Don't know which 24" model you have but could be different backlighting and/or some people just get headaches from glossy screens.

Glossy screens fatigue out my eyes faster than matte panels.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> A glossy panel will always have better image quality and color reproduction.
> Matte will significantly reduce image quality. Color reproduction also takes a hit but not as much as image quality.


Color reproduction is worse on glossy. Yes its brighter and pops but its not accurate. Glossy screens are too dependent on ambient lighting and I swear colors change during the day when staring at a glossy monitor.

If you're actually working on jobs that will eventually get printed, matte all the way. Glossy screens may "look" better in person but when printed it's not as bright or vibrant.

But aside all that, still want another Korean monitor for the basement setup.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Don't know which 24" model you have but could be different backlighting and/or some people just get headaches from glossy screens.
> Glossy screens fatigue out my eyes faster than matte panels.
> Color reproduction is worse on glossy. Yes its brighter and pops but its not accurate. Glossy screens are too dependent on ambient lighting and I swear colors change during the day when staring at a glossy monitor.
> If you're actually working on jobs that will eventually get printed, matte all the way. Glossy screens may "look" better in person but when printed it's not as bright or vibrant.
> But aside all that, still want another Korean monitor for the basement setup.


This image disagrees with your points:


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> This image disagrees with your points:


I said the colors are brighter and will pop out more. Your picture shows that, I agree.

Try printing a picture from an online printer and compare it to your screen, that's what I mean by color accuracy. Even calibrated glossy panels felt oversaturated to me.

Lighting is more important for a glossy panel vs a matte. Too much light and you'll get reflections on a glossy. Also I feel like the colors darken/lighten depending on the lighting conditions on a glossy.

Also can you please link the source of that picture? Would love to read the thread behind it.

Technically color accuracy should be the same glossy vs matte if using the same panel calibrated. I just find glossy panels to add a shine that doesn't show up on my prints.

A better example would have been glossy vs matte using the same panel since we're only talking about glossy vs matte. The panels themselves make a difference on color reproduction so comparing matte vs glossy across different panels is kinda moot.

Edit: Just wanted to say, not trying to start a fight just stating my personal findings. Displays preferences is just that, preferences. With proper calibration and a controlled environment they should preform similarly (glossy vs matte if using the same panel).

I got hung on color reproduction having to relate to accuracy in the print industry (bad habit, mom is a graphic designer). Sorry about that.

Still want two more for surround but it'll have to be in the basement. My current computer room has way too many windows.


----------



## alig23

I have a few questions. I hate paypal, with a passion. If I receive a monitor with might be broken, or have too many dead pixels, how easy is it to just skip the paypal police and just call my bank for a chargeback if the seller seems uncooperative.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> I said the colors are brighter and will pop out more. Your picture shows that, I agree.
> Try printing a picture from an online printer and compare it to your screen, that's what I mean by color accuracy. Even calibrated glossy panels felt oversaturated to me.
> Lighting is more important for a glossy panel vs a matte. Too much light and you'll get reflections on a glossy. Also I feel like the colors darken/lighten depending on the lighting conditions on a glossy.
> Also can you please link the source of that picture? Would love to read the thread behind it.
> Technically color accuracy should be the same glossy vs matte if using the same panel calibrated. I just find glossy panels to add a shine that doesn't show up on my prints.
> A better example would have been glossy vs matte using the same panel since we're only talking about glossy vs matte. The panels themselves make a difference on color reproduction so comparing matte vs glossy across different panels is kinda moot.
> Edit: Just wanted to say, not trying to start a fight just stating my personal findings. Displays preferences is just that, preferences. With proper calibration and a controlled environment they should preform similarly (glossy vs matte if using the same panel).
> I got hung on color reproduction having to relate to accuracy in the print industry (bad habit, mom is a graphic designer). Sorry about that.
> Still want two more for surround but it'll have to be in the basement. My current computer room has way too many windows.


Color accuracy decreases with increased distortion and graininess.

Matte panels have distortion and graininess which results in poor color accuracy.


----------



## reddirtranch

Green-Sum has increased his prices almost doubling them this week alone. I bought two catleaps for $329 then asked for an upgrade to pixel perfect which was listed at the time at $90 more. He invoiced me me for $180 for upgrade on both monitors and now says that was just for one upgrade. The Auction I bought for $329 is now listed at $529. and he wants another $180 again.

I smell a scam, buyer beware!


----------



## Klouczech

I'm confused now.

I decided to buy one 27´´ Korean monitor.

I have PS3 at home, but I heard that with multiple inputs is bigger lag. I think I can buy some DVI - HDMI cable so I can buy cheaper monitor w/o lag, right?

Now I don't know which monitor to choose.
If I buy Catleap I can have more Hz with my nVidia card, right? No other Korean monitor can do it I think.

I was searching between Shimian, Crossover, Yamakasi.
I want to play racing simulators so more Hz would be fine. I want good stand also.

I red on some forum that Its better to inform about seller. Some seller can pay the shipment when you want to send monitor back. But he is selling another monitors like: iRun, LG, Catleap (bigclothcraft). LG looks also fine...

Now I really don't know what to choose.
I hope you will help me, please.

Thanks for every advice...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I'm confused now.
> I decided to buy one 27´´ Korean monitor.
> I have PS3 at home, but I heard that with multiple inputs is bigger lag. I think I can buy some DVI - HDMI cable so I can buy cheaper monitor w/o lag, right?
> Now I don't know which monitor to choose.
> If I buy Catleap I can have more Hz with my nVidia card, right? No other Korean monitor can do it I think.
> I was searching between Shimian, Crossover, Yamakasi.
> I want to play racing simulators so more Hz would be fine. I want good stand also.
> I red on some forum that Its better to inform about seller. Some seller can pay the shipment when you want to send monitor back. But he is selling another monitors like: iRun, LG, Catleap (bigclothcraft). LG looks also fine...
> Now I really don't know what to choose.
> I hope you will help me, please.
> Thanks for every advice...


Using a PS3 on a korean monitor is, in general, a bad idea. You do not get any benefits out of using it as a display for your console. You will not be able to use the monitor properly using a cheap DVI-HDMI cable. If you do want to use a Korean monitor with a PS3, make sure you get one with HDMI! Getting a single-input is asking for lots of trouble getting stuff working properly with your PS3.

If you buy a Catleap, you'll need to buy a "2B" version to overclock - none are readily available and all are quite expensive ($500-$650). Suffice to say, _no current ebay model of the korean monitors can get >66hz._ Sellers who claim so now are lying or misinformed, or they just happen to have one of the original overclockable monitors. Assume that nothing on ebay can get >66hz.

Basically, buy a korean monitor _for your computer_. Do not buy one as a TV, it is not meant for it and it does not work well as a TV even though passable.


----------



## atlblackops

Not a scam, but simply supply and demand. Paid under 400 for mine, but would easily drop more if I had to. No regrets.


----------



## Cully

My Catleap Q270 SEI just arrived,first few observations:

The stand sucks I have a rock solid desk,very heavy, was an expensive yoke and i can see the monitor wobbling slightly as i type or click on one of the brightness buttons etc on the monitor itself.

I definitely have 2 dead pixels,one is absolutely tiny the other could be two together as its a tiny bit bigger, both are near the center of the screen
But its only noticeable when displaying either very bright or very dark.
They are so small i doubt ill notice after a while,just a shame they are in the center area,but they really are tiny,when i showed the wife she said im too fussy lol.

Now on to the positives, WOW just WOW! Everything is just so crystal clear, from text to gaming just amazing.
Im able to run BF3 multiplayer @ Ultra and not drop below 55fps @ 2560X1440 with my card.
Granted its not locked at 60+ fps with ultra settings but it looks so incredibly sharp who gives a damn tbh.
Just for the lols i dropped down to low settings with no AA in BF3 and everything was just so crisp and clear @ this res it looked better than Ultra with 8XAA @ 1920X1200
Im telling ya guys, high resolution beats everything else after experiencing this.
Im keen to try far cry 3,Planetside2, etc as BF3 was the first game i tried.
So far so good, if this thing proves reliable ill be more than happy with my purchase.

Finally i did notice some very slight input lag compared to my Dell U2412M IPS but after 10 mins i was fragging with the best of them.
Here again ill take this resolution above anything else from now on

Just a quick photo taken with my phone.


----------



## Layo

12 months to go.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> 12 months to go.


You seem want these monitors to fail, and seem to take some sort of weird pleasure in telling people precisely that. Why?


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You seem want these monitors to fail, and seem to take some sort of weird pleasure in telling people precisely that. Why?


I just don't like some random companies taking faulty panels and making their own crappy monitos. Even their ToS says they are faulty. I also hate how they threat their customers...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> I just don't like some random companies taking faulty panels and making their own crappy monitos. Even their ToS says they are faulty. I also hate how they threat their customers...


As long as people know what they're getting in to, what's the problem?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> My Catleap Q270 SEI just arrived,first few observations:
> The stand sucks I have a rock solid desk,very heavy, was an expensive yoke and i can see the monitor wobbling slightly as i type or click on one of the brightness buttons etc on the monitor itself.
> I definitely have 2 dead pixels,one is absolutely tiny the other could be two together as its a tiny bit bigger, both are near the center of the screen
> But its only noticeable when displaying either very bright or very dark.
> They are so small i doubt ill notice after a while,just a shame they are in the center area,but they really are tiny,when i showed the wife she said im too fussy lol.
> Now on to the positives, WOW just WOW! Everything is just so crystal clear, from text to gaming just amazing.
> Im able to run BF3 multiplayer @ Ultra and not drop below 55fps @ 2560X1440 with my card.
> Granted its not locked at 60+ fps with ultra settings but it looks so incredibly sharp who gives a damn tbh.
> Just for the lols i dropped down to low settings with no AA in BF3 and everything was just so crisp and clear @ this res it looked better than Ultra with 8XAA @ 1920X1200
> Im telling ya guys, high resolution beats everything else after experiencing this.
> Im keen to try far cry 3,Planetside2, etc as BF3 was the first game i tried.
> So far so good, if this thing proves reliable ill be more than happy with my purchase.
> Finally i did notice some very slight input lag compared to my Dell U2412M IPS but after 10 mins i was fragging with the best of them.
> Here again ill take this resolution above anything else from now on
> Just a quick photo taken with my phone.


How's the motion performance?


----------



## NameMakingSux

Layo seems quite bitter.

I have had my Catleap q270 for months now. Around 5 I think. Pretty flawless little screen. My stand doesn't even lean. Certainly nothing "faulty" about that. I forget who I bought from, but they were plenty easy to deal with. I got charged 30 for duty, and they even offered to reimburse me the 30 dollars. Can't get much better than that.

If I had a complaint it would be the glossy screen. I don't like the reflections, I prefer a matte finish, but it's usually not an issue unless it's a real dark image i'm forced to view in the middle of the day.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NameMakingSux*
> 
> Layo seems quite bitter.
> I have had my Catleap q270 for months now. Around 5 I think. Pretty flawless little screen. My stand doesn't even lean. Certainly nothing "faulty" about that. I forget who I bought from, but they were plenty easy to deal with. I got charged 30 for duty, and they even offered to reimburse me the 30 dollars. Can't get much better than that.
> If I had a complaint it would be the glossy screen. I don't like the reflections, I prefer a matte finish, but it's usually not an issue unless it's a real dark image i'm forced to view in the middle of the day.


Glossy screens have better image quality than matte screens.


----------



## NameMakingSux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Glossy screens have better image quality than matte screens.


I'm sure that I have heard that plenty and don't care. It's kind of a moot point when the superior quality image is blinding me with horrible reflections.

I've always thought matte displays looked fine and dandy (I have a 19 inch Acer beside my catleap right now, and while it pales in comparison, I still love it), and a WQHD OLED display Matte or Glossy is going to be absolutely wonderful.


----------



## TheInternal

So, I've been doing more research, and I'm wondering if the issue I have is the same one that mac users have been having for awhile: http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20055828-263.html

My new Catleap 2703 screen still periodically (but not always) will display static after being "asleep" for awhile. I still am somewhat concerned that this is indicative of something failing, but thus far, I'm still uncertain. I really dislike being uncertain

The lack of responses with people having the same issues and their fixes is a bit off-putting as well.

The monitor is connected via the included dual link DVI to my Geforce 670 GTX (which is in 2-way SLI mode). I have never had this issue with my old 24" 1920x1200 dell (non-dual link DVI).

One of the suggested fixes was calibrating my monitor, but I'm not sure where I can a hold of an English manual for my screen. I'm not even entirely sure what they mean when they say "calibrating the monitor." Is that like loading a color profile, or fiddling with the screen's menus (which I don't know how to access nor navigate)?

Everything else with the monitor is hunky-dory. Great picture. Great for gaming / everything I've thrown at it. I'm just very concerned about a new product with a recurring problem and want to either fix it or replace it promptly.

The seller also suggested trying a different cable. Does anyone have suggestions for the "proper" dual link DVI cable to use? Any brand / model suggestions on cable? Can the issue be fixed by a cable?


----------



## J308

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> That's pretty much unheard off, $400 monitor lasting 9 months (like some kind of achievement),4 months till it dies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tbh if the U2713HM didn't drop to $620 I would go with shimian or crossover and count down 1 year till it dies or pick some 120hz.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Woah there. That's the _norm_. Even though some people's monitors are no longer working, I can say with confidence most people's are working just fine. Mine included - and I've been fiddling with mine more than most, seeing as how mine goes up to ~115 hz. It's been 9 months now and it still works fine. *The only problem? My front pane of tempered glass fell off and I had to tape it back* on with better double sided tape. Yes, the Dell U2713hm is higher quality, but that doesn't mean that these things are all gonna die right away.


so tl;dr, these used to be an epic steal when they could be OC'd, and no one knew how long they'd last.

Fast-forward to present, and now they are shipping defective stock, as stated in their TOS, up to 15 dead pixels, sand inside the display, etc. etc. and they can't be OC'd, the prices have went up, and the front pane might have to be taped back together and there are multiple reports of these dying within a year.

Thank you so much, overclock.net, you just confirmed what I thought after checking out the ebay listings on these. I'll be moving along to something else.


----------



## cmc850

Just got a Q271 - with OSD, scaler , HDMI as I occasionally use with cable box. Shipped from Green-sum - three days to Ohio. Plugged it in to my 6850 and looked great. No dead pixels I can see, I bit of glow in the lower right - not a problem.

One surprise was the fact that even though the Q271 is not a tempered glass model, I still expected a glossier screen. This one is neither matte nor glossy, so best of both worlds as there is no coating to obscure anything yet no reflections. Happy so far.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J308*
> 
> so tl;dr, these used to be an epic steal when they could be OC'd, and no one knew how long they'd last.
> Fast-forward to present, and now they are shipping defective stock, as stated in their TOS, up to 15 dead pixels, sand inside the display, etc. etc. and they can't be OC'd, the prices have went up, and the front pane might have to be taped back together and there are multiple reports of these dying within a year.
> Thank you so much, overclock.net, you just confirmed what I thought after checking out the ebay listings on these. I'll be moving along to something else.


Good decision. My whole point is that one $650 Dell will probably last longer than 2 $400+ crossovers +it will be sitting on high quality stand with high quality support backing it up whole time. Everyone thinks how awesome steal they made and how smart they are but remind them after they purchase 4th korean monitor and I will be running the same dell.

They could have been actually good monitors back then when those guys had almost no reputation, now they developed their scam methods and can afford to sell boxes of mess.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J308*
> 
> so tl;dr, these used to be an epic steal when they could be OC'd, and no one knew how long they'd last.
> Fast-forward to present, and now they are shipping defective stock, as stated in their TOS, up to 15 dead pixels, sand inside the display, etc. etc. and they can't be OC'd, the prices have went up, and the front pane might have to be taped back together and there are multiple reports of these dying within a year.
> Thank you so much, overclock.net, you just confirmed what I thought after checking out the ebay listings on these. I'll be moving along to something else.


Up to you. My monitor's build quality was never a forte of it, and no one should under any illusion that it is amazing. Meanwhile, I have had the pleasure of using a 1440p monitor for nine months now, have had a monitor which is superior to similarly priced monitors, and "saved" $400 (50%) from a similarly specced monitor. Oh, and I get 120 hz operation too. Know what you're getting into. If you want to spend 75% more on your monitor to get the additional peace of mind, be my guest. I will save the money now and am willing to take the risk - and I think my choice has been validated so far.
Quote:


> My whole point is that one $650 Dell will probably last longer than 2 $400+ crossovers +it will be sitting on high quality stand with high quality support backing it up whole time. Everyone thinks how awesome steal they made and how smart they are but remind them after they purchase 4th korean monitor and I will be running the same dell.


That's speculation, you realise? How many people have bought their fourth monitor? And how many still have their original? You obviously thought that your extra $300 was well spent. Others, perhaps, had a better use for $300 than getting a warranty they did not value - perhaps because the warranty, for most consumer electronics, is for peace of mind, not because it provides and actual benefit. That is to say, I am willing to guess that the majority of these monitors will never benefit even from a three year warranty that dell gives. Again.... Are dell monitors (the U2713hm) better? Of course. But are they $300-$500 better? That is a value proposition that you cannot make for someone else.


----------



## J308

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Up to you. My monitor's build quality was never a forte of it, and no one should under any illusion that it is amazing. Meanwhile, I have had the pleasure of using a 1440p monitor for nine months now, have had a monitor which is superior to similarly priced monitors, and "saved" $400 (50%) from a similarly specced monitor. Oh, and I get 120 hz operation too. Know what you're getting into. If you want to spend 75% more on your monitor to get the additional peace of mind, be my guest. I will save the money now and am willing to take the risk - and I think my choice has been validated so far.


Amazing? or acceptable. You get 120 hz operation, but will anyone that buys this monitor today get that?

I don't want to spend 75% more. For me, it is a choice of wanting 2x 24" IPS or eIPS (I am honest about my requirements for a "professional" quality monitor) but being willing to upgrade. I would certainly get a generic display for a fraction of the cost of the apple display, for the *same* quality, minus the apple support.

The fact is that even people that are happy with these monitors report that these are not the same quality. There are some people reporting major defects. A single dead pixel is not a major defect. Having to tape your monitor back together is.

I get the desire to gamble for bang-for-the-buck. Value is great, but I expect a minimum level of build quality. Not generic factory thirds.

No name display, less features, less inputs vs. Apple display w/ more features can be a valid value comparison.
No name display, less features, less inputs, sand in the glass, 14 dead pixels, light bleed, yellowing, scuffs, wobbly stands, having to be taped back together vs. Apple display w/ more features, much tighter QC, infinitely better warranty is apples and oranges.

You wouldn't pay half price for a Core i7 CPU/mobo combo if there were reports of them having not recognizing a core, CPU fans falling off and memory not being recognized, all on the same model, topped off with the fact that if it's screwed you have to find a sucker to buy it rather than RMA it.

I came here to research this monitor, and I did. It's not for me, and I'm moving on. I'll give a few hours for responses to see if anyone has a valid argument other than "I got lucky and got a good one". After that I'll be unsubscribing and getting on with life.


----------



## Bebop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *J308*
> 
> so tl;dr, these used to be an epic steal when they could be OC'd, and no one knew how long they'd last.
> Fast-forward to present, and now they are shipping defective stock, as stated in their TOS, up to 15 dead pixels, sand inside the display, etc. etc. and they can't be OC'd, the prices have went up, and the front pane might have to be taped back together and there are multiple reports of these dying within a year.
> Thank you so much, overclock.net, you just confirmed what I thought after checking out the ebay listings on these. I'll be moving along to something else.


Whaa? and I was thinking of buying one in the near future... so what do i do now? where do i go?

halp


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Up to you. My monitor's build quality was never a forte of it, and no one should under any illusion that it is amazing. Meanwhile, I have had the pleasure of using a 1440p monitor for nine months now, have had a monitor which is superior to similarly priced monitors, and "saved" $400 (50%) from a similarly specced monitor. Oh, and I get 120 hz operation too. Know what you're getting into. If you want to spend 75% more on your monitor to get the additional peace of mind, be my guest. I will save the money now and am willing to take the risk - and I think my choice has been validated so far.
> That's speculation, you realise? How many people have bought their fourth monitor? And how many still have their original? You obviously thought that your extra $300 was well spent. Others, perhaps, had a better use for $300 than getting a warranty they did not value - perhaps because the warranty, for most consumer electronics, is for peace of mind, not because it provides and actual benefit. That is to say, I am willing to guess that the majority of these monitors will never benefit even from a three year warranty that dell gives. Again.... Are dell monitors (the U2713hm) better? Of course. But are they $300-$500 better? That is a value proposition that you cannot make for someone else.


Cheapest crossover would be $450, Catleap/Shimian $390 and I paid $620 for my Dell so yes, Imo well spent $150-200. It's one of the most expensive things I've got and I will have it backed up for 3 years for aditional 5 bucks a month which I can make in about hour. So yea, really worth it.
Not even mentioning what's inside those koreans, Dell doesn't even use power brick.

I spend on average 6 hours a day using this monitor, I don't know what would I do if my korean died, wait month to get the seller to do something if he even answers and month to ship it there and back. If my Dell dies, I will have it repaired probably in 10 hours or less, 1 hour a month is worth the piece of mind.


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Color accuracy decreases with increased distortion and graininess.
> Matte panels have distortion and graininess which results in poor color accuracy.


As I said color accuracy has to do with final output. For me that's print, what I see on my monitor better match what I print. As I stated from my personal experience glossy's are a pita to setup for anything I want color accuracy.

Have you tested any glossy/matte using the same panel?

The pic you even has a TN panel and different resolutions. Panel matters more for color accuracy than matte vs glossy.

Also not all matte panels are the same, different manufacturers use different AG. I feel like you've had bad experience with a few matte panels and writing them off.

It's all boils down to preference but I get annoyed when I see marketing work.

In a controlled environment/calibrated gloss and matte will perform similarly.

Glossy monitors are inherently cheaper to manufacturer. It reminds me of the whole stick vs auto for cars. It's all preference.


----------



## J308

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bebop*
> 
> Whaa? and I was thinking of buying one in the near future... so what do i do now? where do i go?
> halp


Are you now or do you _seriously_ aspire to be a professional graphic artist, print editor or photographer? If so, then you probably already know your options.

If not, then consider the consumer-level mid-range IPS monitors, and read about the differences with eIPS, and determine what inputs you need. I want dual ~24's with DVI, so I already have my short list. PM me if you want to hear it so we don't clutter the thread with further comparisons.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Cheapest crossover would be $450, Catleap/Shimian $390 and I paid $620 for my Dell so yes, Imo well spent $150-200. It's one of the most expensive things I've got and I will have it backed up for 3 years for aditional 5 bucks a month which I can make in about hour. So yea, really worth it.
> Not even mentioning what's inside those koreans, Dell doesn't even use power brick.
> I spend on average 6 hours a day using this monitor, I don't know what would I do if my korean died, wait month to get the seller to do something if he even answers and month to ship it there and back. If my Dell dies, I will have it repaired probably in 10 hours or less, 1 hour a month is worth the piece of mind.


Yes, worth it for you - but not worth it for many people. Especially since many got it at ~$300. It is clear that you were not in the market purely for cheap 1440p. Good for you! You got a monitor you wanted. The Dell's a great monitor, and it certainly has all the advantages that you say it does. But why post over and over about how your monitor is better and how the Catleap/ is not as good? Especially in this thread. I think everyone knows that.
Quote:


> Amazing? or acceptable. You get 120 hz operation, but will anyone that buys this monitor today get that?
> 
> I don't want to spend 75% more. For me, it is a choice of wanting 2x 24" IPS or eIPS (I am honest about my requirements for a "professional" quality monitor) but being willing to upgrade. I would certainly get a generic display for a fraction of the cost of the apple display, for the same quality, minus the apple support.


These aren't professional quality monitors. Anyone who thinks they are are fooling themselves. They're good for what they're good for - bringing 1440p to a <$400 price. They are not amazing. They are also not trash.
Quote:


> The fact is that even people that are happy with these monitors report that these are not the same quality. There are some people reporting major defects. A single dead pixel is not a major defect. Having to tape your monitor back together is.


Was I upset the glass fell off? Sure. Was it a major defect? No. If I had ordered a nontempered glass model, I would have gotten what I had when the glass fell off. And paid less money. My monitor did not "fall apart" in the manner you think. I had a perfectly workable (and _salable_) monitor after the glass fell off. If I had sold it as a non-tempered glass version, no one would be able to tell the difference between that and a regular non-tempered glass model.
Quote:


> I get the desire to gamble for bang-for-the-buck. Value is great, but I expect a minimum level of build quality. Not generic factory thirds.


It should be clear that these monitors are of lower quality. Expecting Dell-level quality? Pay Dell-level prices. The primary reason people consider these monitors is value. If value isn't high on your list, get something that does have the features you want.
Quote:


> No name display, less features, less inputs vs. Apple display w/ more features can be a valid value comparison.
> No name display, less features, less inputs, sand in the glass, 14 dead pixels, light bleed, yellowing, scuffs, wobbly stands, having to be taped back together vs. Apple display w/ more features, much tighter QC, infinitely better warranty is apples and oranges.


*shrug* Ok. The monitors can be compared - but what you value is different and thus the decision reached will be different. They can all be compared - unless each individual issue is a deal-breaker to you. Which it seems they are. Therefore there can be no value comparison - _for you._
Quote:


> You wouldn't pay half price for a Core i7 CPU/mobo combo if there were reports of them having not recognizing a core, CPU fans falling off and memory not being recognized, all on the same model, topped off with the fact that if it's screwed you have to find a sucker to buy it rather than RMA it.


I certainly would not. However, you do realise that your example is contrived and rather inaccurate in context of this situation?
Quote:


> I came here to research this monitor, and I did. It's not for me, and I'm moving on. I'll give a few hours for responses to see if anyone has a valid argument other than "I got lucky and got a good one". After that I'll be unsubscribing and getting on with life.


If you don't want to deal with the issues that these monitors may have, then don't buy it. You will have more headaches than you wish to deal with. It's not the monitor for you. Get a Dell U2713hm (or U2713h for aRGB coverage). It will work better for you. It's a better monitor. It will just cost you more. I'm not trying to sell these monitors, that's just dumb. Anyone who does, aside from ebayers who are actually making money off them, is wasting their time. If you have the extra money to spend on a better quality monitor, by all means, go and do it. However, don't spread FUD and try to pass it off as truth if it is not.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Yes, worth it for you - but not worth it for many people. Especially since many got it at ~$300. It is clear that you were not in the market purely for cheap 1440p. Good for you! You got a monitor you wanted. The Dell's a great monitor, and it certainly has all the advantages that you say it does. But why post over and over about how your monitor is better and how the Catleap/ is not as good? Especially in this thread. I think everyone knows that.


That's the difference. If I wanted a new monitor when they were $300 and less, the Dell would probably be at around $800 and I would be using korean monitor right now.


----------



## CATACLYSMMM

I wish there was a non AG version of the Dell 27". I guess that's the Apple Cinema, but it's much more expensive. Too bad there isn't a happy median for those of us doing web design.


----------



## J308

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Yes, worth it for you - but not worth it for many people. Especially since many got it at ~$300.


At 120 hz capable too.

Anyway, re: your points, fair enough. This thread is a pretty good resource for those wanting to find out more about this monitor. I've found what I need to know, so thank you all for that.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> As I said color accuracy has to do with final output. For me that's print, what I see on my monitor better match what I print. As I stated from my personal experience glossy's are a pita to setup for anything I want color accuracy.
> Have you tested any glossy/matte using the same panel?
> The pic you even has a TN panel and different resolutions. Panel matters more for color accuracy than matte vs glossy.
> Also not all matte panels are the same, different manufacturers use different AG. I feel like you've had bad experience with a few matte panels and writing them off.
> It's all boils down to preference but I get annoyed when I see marketing work.
> In a controlled environment/calibrated gloss and matte will perform similarly.
> Glossy monitors are inherently cheaper to manufacturer. It reminds me of the whole stick vs auto for cars. It's all preference.


An IPS panel will almost always have better color accuracy than a TN panel.

What I'm saying is that matte panels distort colors in a way. This means less color accuracy.


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> An IPS panel will almost always have better color accuracy than a TN panel.
> What I'm saying is that matte panels distort colors in a way. This means less color accuracy.


Yes but your picture is comparing apples to oranges.

Different panel types with a majority of them at a lower resolution. All this shows is the finishing on different models, you can't really take anything else out of that.

Also not all manufacturers do matte the same, putting a blanket statement doesn't really help.

There are high end monitors in both matte/glossy for color accuracy (and these Korean's aren't one of those). If your argument was valid, nobody would make matte. Why would they? It's more expensive to manufacturer a matte monitor than a glossy.

In a controlled environment they should perform similarly. It just boils down to preference.

Read your other thread, a few editors are responding.

Tator just gave me the word I was looking for. Glossy monitors have better clarity.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Yes but your picture is comparing apples to oranges.
> Different panel types with a majority of them at a lower resolution. All this shows is the finishing on different models, you can't really take anything else out of that.
> Also not all manufacturers do matte the same, putting a blanket statement doesn't really help.
> There are high end monitors in both matte/glossy for color accuracy (and these Korean's aren't one of those). If your argument was valid, nobody would make matte. Why would they? It's more expensive to manufacturer a matte monitor than a glossy.
> In a controlled environment they should perform similarly. It just boils down to preference.
> Read your other thread, a few editors are responding.
> Tator just gave me the word I was looking for. Glossy monitors have better clarity.


Since all these are are rejects that would normally go in to a high end monitor, why would they not have the same color reproduction? It's the same panel, someone just thought one little thing was off and scrapped it.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Yes but your picture is comparing apples to oranges.
> Different panel types with a majority of them at a lower resolution. All this shows is the finishing on different models, you can't really take anything else out of that.
> Also not all manufacturers do matte the same, putting a blanket statement doesn't really help.
> There are high end monitors in both matte/glossy for color accuracy (and these Korean's aren't one of those). If your argument was valid, nobody would make matte. Why would they? It's more expensive to manufacturer a matte monitor than a glossy.
> In a controlled environment they should perform similarly. It just boils down to preference.
> Read your other thread, a few editors are responding.
> Tator just gave me the word I was looking for. Glossy monitors have better clarity.


Well if you want to be pedantic about it, yes "clarity" may be a more appropriate word. However clarity contributes to overall perceived image quality.


----------



## King4x4

Proud owner of Three Korean Screens... Two Catleaps and one Shimian. Only has one dead pixel and I cannot see it.

Total cost for me was about 4100 Saudi Riyal.
The cost of one Dell screen in my country = 5600 Sar, Shipping from the USA = 3800 SAR (No Warrenty due to long range shipping)
The cost of an Apple Screen in my country = 8000 Sar, Shipping from the USA = 5100 SAR (No Warrenty due to long range shipping)

Three Koreans are Cheaper then one brand name screen in my country and I bet it's the same for most of us.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> If my Dell dies, I will have it repaired probably in 10 hours or less, 1 hour a month is worth the piece of mind.


Keep dreaming.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Keep dreaming.


I had faulty monitor and had it RMAd in 8 hours after I called, you can keep dreaming about any warranty on your koreans.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> I had faulty monitor and had it RMAd in 8 hours after I called, you can keep dreaming about any warranty on your koreans.


Actually my warranty was fine. I had a bad part, he gave me $150 since I told him I could do it myself easily, which was well more than enough to fix it and that was it.

You're telling me you shipped that monitor back to Dell and they shipped you a new one and you got it all within 8 hours?


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Actually my warranty was fine. I had a bad part, he gave me $150 since I told him I could do it myself easily, which was well more than enough to fix it and that was it.
> You're telling me you shipped that monitor back to Dell and they shipped you a new one and you got it all within 8 hours?


They send technic guy with new screen to your location and he either attempts to repair or gives you new one.


----------



## Cully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> How's the motion performance?


Fantastic to be honest, going from a very fast Dell U2412M which is seriously quick the change was flawless in terms of motion performance.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> They send technic guy with new screen to your location and he either attempts to repair or gives you new one.


Is that a different type of warranty you have to pay for? Because on the website it says, "Dell will replace the product for free and ship the replacement product to you using a next-business-day shipping service." On the warranty that comes with it.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Is that a different type of warranty you have to pay for? Because on the website it says, "Dell will replace the product for free and ship the replacement product to you using a next-business-day shipping service." On the warranty that comes with it.


No, standard Dell warranty. That probably applies when there isn't Dell center in your country.


----------



## Cully

Layo Looks like your Dell is one of the slowest out there, it also has a matte screen thats just horrible, all for more than double what i paid for my Catleap.

Taken from TFT Central.

Input Lag Classification

To help in this section we will also introduce a broader classification system for these results to help categorise each screen as one of the following levels:
Class 1) Less than 16ms / 1 frame lag - should be fine for gamers, even at high levels
Class 2) A lag of 16 - 32ms / One to two frames - moderate lag but should be fine for many gamers. Caution advised for serious gaming and FPS
Class 3) A lag of more than 32ms / more than 2 frames - Some noticeable lag in daily usage, not suitable for high end gaming


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> No, standard Dell warranty. That probably applies when there isn't Dell center in your country.


Oh well, never heard of them doing that for monitors. Either way, these guys who do the korean monitors do live up to their warranties, so I would buy another one for sure.


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Klouczech*
> 
> I'm confused now.
> I decided to buy one 27´´ Korean monitor.
> I have PS3 at home, but I heard that with multiple inputs is bigger lag. I think I can buy some DVI - HDMI cable so I can buy cheaper monitor w/o lag, right?
> Now I don't know which monitor to choose.
> If I buy Catleap I can have more Hz with my nVidia card, right? No other Korean monitor can do it I think.
> I was searching between Shimian, Crossover, Yamakasi.
> I want to play racing simulators so more Hz would be fine. I want good stand also.
> I red on some forum that Its better to inform about seller. Some seller can pay the shipment when you want to send monitor back. But he is selling another monitors like: iRun, LG, Catleap (bigclothcraft). LG looks also fine...
> Now I really don't know what to choose.
> I hope you will help me, please.
> Thanks for every advice...


Ok, no PS3. I should buy one only with one DVI-D.
<66Hz.

Any other advice please?


----------



## reddirtranch

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *atlblackops*
> 
> Not a scam, but simply supply and demand. Paid under 400 for mine, but would easily drop more if I had to. No regrets.


still I would call this "opportunistic price gouging"


----------



## bjgrenke

Does anyone else get weird colored lines when you turn on the monitor and boot up your PC? This happens to me maybe a couple times a week, and only when I turn the monitor and my PC on at the same time. It's not a huge issue as I just turn the monitor off and on again and it's fixed.

Other than that, for people wondering about long term lifespan of these monitors, I've had mine since April, and used it for 5+ hours a day and there's no issues with it at all.


----------



## TheInternal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bjgrenke*
> 
> Does anyone else get weird colored lines when you turn on the monitor and boot up your PC? This happens to me maybe a couple times a week, and only when I turn the monitor and my PC on at the same time. It's not a huge issue as I just turn the monitor off and on again and it's fixed.
> Other than that, for people wondering about long term lifespan of these monitors, I've had mine since April, and used it for 5+ hours a day and there's no issues with it at all.


I have a similar problem and have posted about it in this thread. Alas, the thread sorta got jacked by a guy trash talking the monitors and the resulting "nuh-uhs," with no real replies to my concern. The issue sounds similar to what some mac users have been having for years. http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20055828-263.html

I'm uncertain if this is indicative of failure, limits the lifespan of the product, or if there is a fix. I've received no real replies addressing this. (the original post in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/9130#post_18831988)


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> Layo Looks like your Dell is one of the slowest out there, it also has a matte screen thats just horrible, all for more than double what i paid for my Catleap.
> Taken from TFT Central.
> Input Lag Classification
> To help in this section we will also introduce a broader classification system for these results to help categorise each screen as one of the following levels:
> Class 1) Less than 16ms / 1 frame lag - should be fine for gamers, even at high levels
> Class 2) A lag of 16 - 32ms / One to two frames - moderate lag but should be fine for many gamers. Caution advised for serious gaming and FPS
> Class 3) A lag of more than 32ms / more than 2 frames - Some noticeable lag in daily usage, not suitable for high end gaming


His monitor isn't on that list.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> Layo Looks like your Dell is one of the slowest out there, it also has a matte screen thats just horrible, all for more than double what i paid for my Catleap.
> Taken from TFT Central.
> Input Lag Classification
> To help in this section we will also introduce a broader classification system for these results to help categorise each screen as one of the following levels:
> Class 1) Less than 16ms / 1 frame lag - should be fine for gamers, even at high levels
> Class 2) A lag of 16 - 32ms / One to two frames - moderate lag but should be fine for many gamers. Caution advised for serious gaming and FPS
> Class 3) A lag of more than 32ms / more than 2 frames - Some noticeable lag in daily usage, not suitable for high end gaming


Please, show me where my monitor is in there. To save you time, it has around 18ms input lag + it's half matte.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> Layo Looks like your Dell is one of the slowest out there, it also has a matte screen thats just horrible, all for more than double what i paid for my Catleap.
> Taken from TFT Central.
> Input Lag Classification
> To help in this section we will also introduce a broader classification system for these results to help categorise each screen as one of the following levels:
> Class 1) Less than 16ms / 1 frame lag - should be fine for gamers, even at high levels
> Class 2) A lag of 16 - 32ms / One to two frames - moderate lag but should be fine for many gamers. Caution advised for serious gaming and FPS
> Class 3) A lag of more than 32ms / more than 2 frames - Some noticeable lag in daily usage, not suitable for high end gaming


Professional monitors usually have ridiculous input lag because of scalers.

I suggest using monitors with input lags ranging between 0ms and 30ms.


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Since all these are are rejects that would normally go in to a high end monitor, why would they not have the same color reproduction? It's the same panel, someone just thought one little thing was off and scrapped it.


I'm not saying they won't. These Koreans are close to the Apple Cinema (which makes sense since it's the same panel).

Everybody keeps ragging on the Dell, it doesn't use the same panel. It's CCFL vs LED.

A better compassion would have been the new 2713 vs these Koreans.

Anybody else remember the CCFL vs LED days? Most of the arguments sound the same. Brighter colors! Better image quality!

Control boards are different from the Apple monitors but unsure if that affects image quality.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Well if you want to be pedantic about it, yes "clarity" may be a more appropriate word. However clarity contributes to overall perceived image quality.


And I feel like we've come full circle.

I partly blame manufacturers for their lazy definitions but I feel like we've talked about this already. Perception has nothing to do with accuracy. It's either accurate to a set standard or not.

I'll gladly be a pedant if it stops the spread of misinformation. As others said, your picture only shows the different AG coating on different models. It doesn't compare glossy vs matte.

It really boils down to preference and each have their pros and cons.

I get that you personally like glossy screens but blanket statements without the right terminology doesn't help anybody.

Back on topic:

If you get an Ultrasharp in the US, you get advance RMA. Only time I had to use warranty I get a replacement within the week.


----------



## Cully

Layo what monitor do you have?


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> Layo what monitor do you have?


U2713HM, it's in my sig rig


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheInternal*
> 
> So, I've been doing more research, and I'm wondering if the issue I have is the same one that mac users have been having for awhile: http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-20055828-263.html
> My new Catleap 2703 screen still periodically (but not always) will display static after being "asleep" for awhile. I still am somewhat concerned that this is indicative of something failing, but thus far, I'm still uncertain. I really dislike being uncertain
> The lack of responses with people having the same issues and their fixes is a bit off-putting as well.
> The monitor is connected via the included dual link DVI to my Geforce 670 GTX (which is in 2-way SLI mode). I have never had this issue with my old 24" 1920x1200 dell (non-dual link DVI).
> One of the suggested fixes was calibrating my monitor, but I'm not sure where I can a hold of an English manual for my screen. I'm not even entirely sure what they mean when they say "calibrating the monitor." Is that like loading a color profile, or fiddling with the screen's menus (which I don't know how to access nor navigate)?
> Everything else with the monitor is hunky-dory. Great picture. Great for gaming / everything I've thrown at it. I'm just very concerned about a new product with a recurring problem and want to either fix it or replace it promptly.
> The seller also suggested trying a different cable. Does anyone have suggestions for the "proper" dual link DVI cable to use? Any brand / model suggestions on cable? Can the issue be fixed by a cable?


It could be a bad connection issue with the cable or maybe one of the connections inside. I used http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816012 for my monitor and it's been doing great so far.


----------



## Cully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> U2713HM, it's in my sig rig


22.2 ms is a lot more than 6ms on my Catleap that cost half as much as yours


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> 22.2 ms is a lot more than 6ms on my Catleap that cost half as much as yours


And the U2713hm has multiple inputs, has an on-screen menu, a 3 year premium warranty, a better monitor build, more features, etc. Don't fool yourself. Your Catleap is a cheap 1440p monitor that excels in a few things (mostly price + input lag) and little else.

Unless, of course, you get a Catleap 2B. Then we're talking about a whole other ballgame.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> 22.2 ms is a lot more than 6ms on my Catleap that cost half as much as yours


Where did you get those 6ms from? I came from 21.5' TN and there's no visible difference. There is youtube video showing shimian's (?) input lag and my dell is nothing slow like that.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> And the U2713hm has multiple inputs, has an on-screen menu, a 3 year premium warranty, a better monitor build, more features, etc. Don't fool yourself. Your Catleap is a cheap 1440p monitor that excels in a few things (mostly price + input lag) and little else.
> Unless, of course, you get a Catleap 2B. Then we're talking about a whole other ballgame.


This.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> And the U2713hm has multiple inputs, has an on-screen menu, a 3 year premium warranty, a better monitor build, more features, etc. Don't fool yourself. Your Catleap is a cheap 1440p monitor that excels in a few things (mostly price + input lag) and little else.
> Unless, of course, you get a Catleap 2B. Then we're talking about a whole other ballgame.


You can buy one with multiple inputs, an OSD, a squaretrade warranty and monitor build is fine just buy it a new stand if you don't like it. For how overpriced normal 1440p monitors are, they sure don't have a lot extra going for them.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Where did you get those 6ms from? I came from 21.5' TN and there's no visible difference. There is youtube video showing shimian's (?) input lag and my dell is nothing slow like that.
> This.


It says 6ms on the website.

Edit: Also this isn't the Shimian club so don't care about what they do.


----------



## Cully

Catleap is 6ms, thats a known fact.
The U2713hm is 22.2 - the Catleap is a lot faster Layo, your fooling yourself if you think otherwise.


----------



## Badge56

This multi color mess has happened to me a couple of time on reboot. Nothing to worry about I dont think.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> You can buy one with multiple inputs, an OSD, a squaretrade warranty and monitor build is fine just buy it a new stand if you don't like it. For how overpriced normal 1440p monitors are, they sure don't have a lot extra going for them.


Squaretrade warranty isn't Dell's warranty. A dell Ultrasharp is a premium warranty that is worth considerably more than squaretrade's warranty. And all of that costs more than the $300 noted - probably all said and done, it's closer to $450 (say $350 for base model, $60 for warranty, $40 for the stand). And you _still_ get an inferior monitor to a U2713hm. But you get a pretty good monitor for a very cheap price if you go Catleap.
Quote:


> It says 6ms on the website.
> Edit: Also this isn't the Shimian club so don't care about what they do.


I wouldn't trust anything they say on their website. Suffice to say, a multi-input Shimian was tested at 17 ms input lag. Single input will be less than this. Similar monitors (single input, no OSD) have been tested at between 4-8 ms input lag, so I'd go with that.. I do not recall anyone actually measuring real input lag of a single-input catleap/shimian/other korean monitor.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Squaretrade warranty isn't Dell's warranty. A dell Ultrasharp is a premium warranty that is worth considerably more than squaretrade's warranty. And all of that costs more than the $300 noted - probably all said and done, it's closer to $450 (say $350 for base model, $60 for warranty, $40 for the stand). And you _still_ get an inferior monitor to a U2713hm. But you get a pretty good monitor for a very cheap price if you go Catleap.
> I wouldn't trust anything they say on their website. Suffice to say, a multi-input Shimian was tested at 17 ms input lag. Single input will be less than this. Similar monitors (single input, no OSD) have been tested at between 4-8 ms input lag, so I'd go with that.. I do not recall anyone actually measuring real input lag of a single-input catleap/shimian/other korean monitor.


They haven't really done anything to make us believe that they would put false information up. That's like saying Dell's site claims are all bad too.

Now who really has the better picture, someone would need to test this. Can't just automatically assume the Dell would be the best. Looking at specs, the Catleap is S-IPS vs the 2713hm which is only P-IPS. So picture wise only the $1000 u2711 would be better.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> They haven't really done anything to make us believe that they would put false information up. That's like saying Dell's site claims are all bad too.
> Now who really has the better picture, someone would need to test this. Can't just automatically assume the Dell would be the best. Looking at specs, the Catleap is S-IPS vs the 2713hm which is only P-IPS. So picture wise only the $1000 u2711 would be better.


2713hm is AH-IPS

Also I doubt those korean guys have clue what input lag means.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> They haven't really done anything to make us believe that they would put false information up. That's like saying Dell's site claims are all bad too.


Quote:


> Now who really has the better picture, someone would need to test this. Can't just automatically assume the Dell would be the best. Looking at specs, the Catleap is S-IPS vs the 2713hm which is only P-IPS. So picture wise only the $1000 u2711 would be better.


I don't know of a single manufacturer who quotes input lag, much less accurate input lag.

S-IPS vs P-IPS is pretty meaningless as far as display quality is concerned. Both are 8 bit IPS panels. Both have full 100% sRGB gamut. Both are ~1000:1 contrast ratio. But the Dell is factory calibrated to a much higher colour accuracy than any catleap monitor. That's not taking into account the 0 bright pixel Ultrasharp guarantee (pixel perfect is _not_ the same; besides it costs even more), easy exchanges for backlight bleed/uniformity problems and overall better quality panel to begin with.

The U2711 is only better if you use the wide gamut. Otherwise the U2711 is worse than U2713hm in just about every aspect, for sRGB users - everyone who doesn't have wide-gamut cameras, wide gamut software, wide gamut printers and wide gamut calibrators.

Don't get me wrong - for $300-$400, the Catleap (and other similar 1440p koreans) are _great_ monitors. It's just that a monitor like the Dell U2713hm is better - as it ought to be, being 50%-100% more expensive.


----------



## Cully

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't know of a single manufacturer who quotes input lag, much less accurate input lag.
> S-IPS vs P-IPS is pretty meaningless as far as display quality is concerned. Both are 8 bit IPS panels. Both have full 100% sRGB gamut. Both are ~1000:1 contrast ratio. But the Dell is factory calibrated to a much higher colour accuracy than any catleap monitor. That's not taking into account the 0 bright pixel Ultrasharp guarantee (pixel perfect is _not_ the same; besides it costs even more), easy exchanges for backlight bleed/uniformity problems and overall better quality panel to begin with.
> The U2711 is only better if you use the wide gamut. Otherwise the U2711 is worse than U2713hm in just about every aspect, for sRGB users - everyone who doesn't have wide-gamut cameras, wide gamut software, wide gamut printers and wide gamut calibrators.
> Don't get me wrong - for $300-$400, the Catleap (and other similar 1440p koreans) are _great_ monitors. It's just that a monitor like the Dell U2713hm is better - as it ought to be, being 50%-100% more expensive.


Have you taken into account that imput lag is 22.2ms on the U2713hm and 28ms on the U2711 while the Catleap is 6ms?
While i have not gamed on a U2713hm therefore would not be fair to pass comment on that aspect of it I have used one for browsing on my brother in laws place many times and trust me it looks no better than my Catleap.

Maybe the Dell over all is the better monitor, im sick and tired of Layo labeling the Catleaps as rubbish, he obviously never seen one or used one in the flesh.
The fact remains and the only reason im even bothering to post in response to this guy is the Catleap is far from rubbish and is simply amazing value for money.

Rant Over


----------



## Schindlerian

Hey, guys, I've owned my q270 monitor for quite a few months now. Recently I made a major upgrade into my system and once everything was all worked out I installed the driver found on one of Toasty's posts. Ever since then I was having a ton of problems with my monitor so I removed them and since then I hadn't had much problems while my PC was on but now whenever I start my computer the monitor won't display an image.

It takes countless startups for it to work correctly and typically I have to try to get into BIOS immediately after I boot up to get an image. I have no idea why but my PC is definitely on, I can hear sound and I can navigate the computer without the screen to get all the way to Windows but nothing ever establishes. It's really frustrating. So I guess I'm just wondering if there are any more recent drivers for these monitors or if anyone knows of a similar problem with a solution?

TLDR: Updated monitor drivers from a pretty old post for my q270 and have been experiencing quite a few problems with booting the monitor. Any suggestions?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> 2713hm is AH-IPS
> Also I doubt those korean guys have clue what input lag means.


You're right it is AH-IPS.

Pretty racist. The Yamakasi website isn't made by the ebay sellers, it's the manufacturer website.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't know of a single manufacturer who quotes input lag, much less accurate input lag.
> S-IPS vs P-IPS is pretty meaningless as far as display quality is concerned. Both are 8 bit IPS panels. Both have full 100% sRGB gamut. Both are ~1000:1 contrast ratio. But the Dell is factory calibrated to a much higher colour accuracy than any catleap monitor. That's not taking into account the 0 bright pixel Ultrasharp guarantee (pixel perfect is _not_ the same; besides it costs even more), easy exchanges for backlight bleed/uniformity problems and overall better quality panel to begin with.
> The U2711 is only better if you use the wide gamut. Otherwise the U2711 is worse than U2713hm in just about every aspect, for sRGB users - everyone who doesn't have wide-gamut cameras, wide gamut software, wide gamut printers and wide gamut calibrators.
> Don't get me wrong - for $300-$400, the Catleap (and other similar 1440p koreans) are _great_ monitors. It's just that a monitor like the Dell U2713hm is better - as it ought to be, being 50%-100% more expensive.


If you compare both monitors, the 2713ah display itself offers nothing better besides less power usage. The Catleap has a 3,000,000:1 higher dynamic contrast ratio than the dell. I know dynamic contrast barely makes a difference but every little bit counts. For color calibration, there's plenty of preset settings out there to make the Catleap perfect. Obviously the only downside is you take a gamble as to what may be wrong, or some panels don't have anything wrong at all by the time you end up with it, maybe having a dead pixel which goes away during shipping.

So to end, no way is that dell worth that much. It might as well be a Catleap with a different plastic shell and a better warranty.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> If you compare both monitors, the 2713ah display itself offers nothing better besides less power usage. The Catleap has a 3,000,000:1 higher dynamic contrast ratio than the dell. I know dynamic contrast barely makes a difference but every little bit counts. For color calibration, there's plenty of preset settings out there to make the Catleap perfect. Obviously the only downside is you take a gamble as to what may be wrong, or some panels don't have anything wrong at all by the time you end up with it, maybe having a dead pixel which goes away during shipping.
> So to end, no way is that dell worth that much. It might as well be a Catleap with a different plastic shell and a better warranty.


Dynamic contrast is not just "barely making a difference". It is flat out useless. They tested dynamic contrast on several monitors - it never, _ever_ does anything close to what is advertised. Ignore it. Static contrast ratio is where it is at. There is a very good reason that no reputable site bothers to test extensively for dynamic contrast. It's useless.

Presets do not mean good, accurate colours. Besides, presets mean that you bought one with a scaler/onscreen display and paid more than the basic, as well as getting similar input lag numbers. The U2713hm is factory calibrated. It's _actually_ calibrated. It is the most accurate monitor that AnandTech has ever tested out of the box. Presets are not a calibration. It is definitely _not_ a catleap in a different shell. It is taking a better panel, then calibrating it to be even better. Then putting a better shell on it. It is undoubtedly a better monitor. It just isn't a better value proposition - for most people, anyways. It's like how the GTX 680 is indisputably a faster GPU than a GTX 670 (yeah, there are some GTX 670 faster than some GTX 680; on average though GTX 680 faster than GTX 670). It's just that the Gtx 680 isn't a better value.
Quote:


> Have you taken into account that imput lag is 22.2ms on the U2713hm and 28ms on the U2711 while the Catleap is 6ms?


(edit) Although it's (probably) true that there is much less input lag, that still doesn't make up for the Catleap's other shortcomings relative to a U2713hm. Not to say it's a bad monitor, because it clearly isn't.
Quote:


> While i have not gamed on a U2713hm therefore would not be fair to pass comment on that aspect of it I have used one for browsing on my brother in laws place many times and trust me it looks no better than my Catleap.


The U2713hm is colour calibrated. Unless you used your own colorimeter/spectrophotometer on your Catleap, its colours are guaranteed to be more inaccurate. It's just human eyes are so good at compensating for most things, that you get used to it after a little while. But put them side by side - the monitors won't look the same. Perhaps you'll find the antiglare bothersome (in my experience, the AG on my monitors haven't bothered/affected me), but you should notice that the colours themselves will look different. Your brother's monitor's colours will be much closer to what things should actually look like. Even my 23", non-calibrated Ultrasharp had better colours out of the box than my Catleap. Had to get myself a colorimeter...
Quote:


> The fact remains and the only reason im even bothering to post in response to this guy is the Catleap is far from rubbish and is simply amazing value for money.


That's why there's a Catleap on my desk, and not a Dell Ultrasharp. Well, I lie. There's a U2312hm sitting beside it. I might have gotten the U2713hm instead, had I been in the market for a monitor now. But that's only since I think I could swing a U2713hm for $560, and it seems prices have gone up on Catleaps (and no more oevrclocking; that's what sealed the deal for me the first time).
Quote:


> It takes countless startups for it to work correctly and typically I have to try to get into BIOS immediately after I boot up to get an image. I have no idea why but my PC is definitely on, I can hear sound and I can navigate the computer without the screen to get all the way to Windows but nothing ever establishes. It's really frustrating. So I guess I'm just wondering if there are any more recent drivers for these monitors or if anyone knows of a similar problem with a solution?


Apparently that's just the way it is. Recent single input Catleaps do not have scalars, and so cannot display non-native resolutions, like in your BIOS. Your video card might also have an issue with that. Weirdly enough, my Catleap has never had problems displaying my BIOS, even though it's a single input. That may be due to the revision I have though, a "2B" version.


----------



## vlenbo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Dynamic contrast is not just "barely making a difference". It is flat out useless. They tested dynamic contrast on several monitors - it never, _ever_ does anything close to what is advertised. Ignore it. Static contrast ratio is where it is at. There is a very good reason that no reputable site bothers to test extensively for dynamic contrast. It's useless.
> Presets do not mean good, accurate colours. Besides, presets mean that you bought one with a scaler/onscreen display and paid more than the basic, as well as getting similar input lag numbers. The U2713hm is factory calibrated. It's _actually_ calibrated. It is the most accurate monitor that AnandTech has ever tested out of the box. Presets are not a calibration. It is definitely _not_ a catleap in a different shell. It is taking a better panel, then calibrating it to be even better. Then putting a better shell on it. It is undoubtedly a better monitor. It just isn't a better value proposition - for most people, anyways. It's like how the GTX 680 is indisputably a faster GPU than a GTX 670 (yeah, there are some GTX 670 faster than some GTX 680; on average though GTX 680 faster than GTX 670). It's just that the Gtx 680 isn't a better value.
> (edit) Although it's (probably) true that there is much less input lag, that still doesn't make up for the Catleap's other shortcomings relative to a U2713hm. Not to say it's a bad monitor, because it clearly isn't.
> The U2713hm is colour calibrated. Unless you used your own colorimeter/spectrophotometer on your Catleap, its colours are guaranteed to be more inaccurate. It's just human eyes are so good at compensating for most things, that you get used to it after a little while. But put them side by side - the monitors won't look the same. Perhaps you'll find the antiglare bothersome (in my experience, the AG on my monitors haven't bothered/affected me), but you should notice that the colours themselves will look different. Your brother's monitor's colours will be much closer to what things should actually look like. Even my 23", non-calibrated Ultrasharp had better colours out of the box than my Catleap. Had to get myself a colorimeter...
> That's why there's a Catleap on my desk, and not a Dell Ultrasharp. Well, I lie. There's a U2312hm sitting beside it. I might have gotten the U2713hm instead, had I been in the market for a monitor now. But that's only since I think I could swing a U2713hm for $560, and it seems prices have gone up on Catleaps (and no more oevrclocking; that's what sealed the deal for me the first time).
> Apparently that's just the way it is. Recent single input Catleaps do not have scalars, and so cannot display non-native resolutions, like in your BIOS. Your video card might also have an issue with that. Weirdly enough, my Catleap has never had problems displaying my BIOS, even though it's a single input. That may be due to the revision I have though, a "2B" version.


So there is no way to get the colors nearly accurate as the dell monitor?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> You're right it is AH-IPS.
> Pretty racist. The Yamakasi website isn't made by the ebay sellers, it's the manufacturer website.
> If you compare both monitors, the 2713ah display itself offers nothing better besides less power usage. The Catleap has a 3,000,000:1 higher dynamic contrast ratio than the dell. I know dynamic contrast barely makes a difference but every little bit counts. For color calibration, there's plenty of preset settings out there to make the Catleap perfect. Obviously the only downside is you take a gamble as to what may be wrong, or some panels don't have anything wrong at all by the time you end up with it, maybe having a dead pixel which goes away during shipping.
> So to end, no way is that dell worth that much. It might as well be a Catleap with a different plastic shell and a better warranty.


The Dell U2713HM uses an 8 bit panel similar to the Yamakasi Catleap. The U2713HM also has much worse input lag of 22ms compared to the Korean monitors' 6ms. Furthermore, Korean monitors are glossy and hence have superior image clarity than the U2713HM's light AG coating.

The Korean monitors are much better than any Dell Ultrasharp. Better responsiveness and better image quality.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vlenbo*
> 
> So there is no way to get the colors nearly accurate as the dell monitor?


There is, you would just have to get a calibrator. You can pick one up for around $100 and less than that on sale. Still way cheaper. And if you are a terrible person, you could just return the calibrator when you are done and get your money back.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> _mixture of truth and untruth_


No.
Quote:


> So there is no way to get the colors nearly accurate as the dell monitor?


Not without a proper colorimeter. That being said, unless you have multiple monitors or have a really bad calibration, you will not notice and your brain will adjust... For the most part.


----------



## Schindlerian

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Apparently that's just the way it is. Recent single input Catleaps do not have scalars, and so cannot display non-native resolutions, like in your BIOS. Your video card might also have an issue with that. Weirdly enough, my Catleap has never had problems displaying my BIOS, even though it's a single input. That may be due to the revision I have though, a "2B" version.


Ah, I see. That kind of makes sense, although it does work from time to time so that kind of confuses me. I've got my resolution max'd out at 2560x1440


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> Have you taken into account that imput lag is 22.2ms on the U2713hm and 28ms on the U2711 while the Catleap is 6ms?
> While i have not gamed on a U2713hm therefore would not be fair to pass comment on that aspect of it I have used one for browsing on my brother in laws place many times and trust me it looks no better than my Catleap.
> Maybe the Dell over all is the better monitor, im sick and tired of Layo labeling the Catleaps as rubbish, he obviously never seen one or used one in the flesh.
> The fact remains and the only reason im even bothering to post in response to this guy is the Catleap is far from rubbish and is simply amazing value for money.
> Rant Over


Pardon me, I've had experience with Shimian (leave the crap, it's all the same box of mess) and it's quality wasn't worst but the Dell's solidity is superior to it. It also "exploded" shortly after and the seller said it's our fault and offered us 10% discount on new one and after some talking he sent us new pcb for $50 + shipping...


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Pardon me, I've had experience with Shimian (leave the crap, it's all the same box of mess) and it's quality wasn't worst but the Dell's solidity is superior to it. It also "exploded" shortly after and the seller said it's our fault and offered us 10% discount on new one and after some talking he sent us new pcb for $50 + shipping...


The CrossOver 27Q LED has the best design and build quality.

The Yamakasi Catleaps have the advantages of having different variants including the variants that come with scalers and HDMI input.


----------



## borgqueenx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q LED has the best design and build quality.
> The Yamakasi Catleaps have the advantages of having different variants including the variants that come with scalers and HDMI input.


Plus that those catleaps look sexy. The power led and stand are both nice on looks.


----------



## Cully

Quote:


> Apparently that's just the way it is. Recent single input Catleaps do not have scalars, and so cannot display non-native resolutions, like in your BIOS. Your video card might also have an issue with that. Weirdly enough, my Catleap has never had problems displaying my BIOS, even though it's a single input. That may be due to the revision I have though, a "2B" version.


I can change res and see Bios not problem at all on my catleap, single connection dual DVI.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The CrossOver 27Q LED has the best design and build quality.
> The Yamakasi Catleaps have the advantages of having different variants including the variants that come with scalers and HDMI input.


And the input lag goes up from unnoticeable to unnoticeable.


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Cully*
> 
> Have you taken into account that imput lag is 22.2ms on the U2713hm and 28ms on the U2711 while the Catleap is 6ms?
> While i have not gamed on a U2713hm therefore would not be fair to pass comment on that aspect of it I have used one for browsing on my brother in laws place many times and trust me it looks no better than my Catleap.
> Maybe the Dell over all is the better monitor, im sick and tired of Layo labeling the Catleaps as rubbish, he obviously never seen one or used one in the flesh.
> The fact remains and the only reason im even bothering to post in response to this guy is the Catleap is far from rubbish and is simply amazing value for money.
> Rant Over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Pardon me, I've had experience with Shimian (leave the crap, it's all the same box of mess) and it's quality wasn't worst but the Dell's solidity is superior to it. It also "exploded" shortly after and the seller said it's our fault and offered us 10% discount on new one and after some talking he sent us new pcb for $50 + shipping...
Click to expand...

did you buy the Shimian?


----------



## cmc850

Reading back through many pages in this thread, there are a few posts that were misleading to me as I tried to choose the best monitor for me - I ended up with the Q271.

Some points to clear up-


Not all these monitors are glossy - mine has no tempered glass, but is definitely not glossy. for me this is a good thing as I don't want many distracting reflections. Also good is the fact that while it's not glossy, it is also very smooth and not at all "grainy" like the models with heavy AG coatings. The perception given here is that all these are glossy, glass or no.
Scaler/HDMI/OSD - this one has all those, and they work quite well. I mostly use my monitor for photo work, though I've tried a few games and found those worked well - input lag was not perceptible to me.
Build and image quality - on par or better than other monitors I've owned from Dell, Samsung. If you are looking for a monitor in the Catleap family with a simlar feature set to these common models, the Q271 may be it - no gloss, hdmi input, OSD etc. Not the ultimate gaming monitor, but a good choice regardless.

Photos:


----------



## evilferret

Why are people now comparing multi input vs single input for input lag?

A multi input Korean is on par or worse (depending on model) than a Dell for input lag.

Look up reviews for rebranded Korean monitors with multi input.

Anybody have experience with the Doublesights? The PP Korean monitors are approaching the same price and they have a single input option.


----------



## Breitz1

I just scored a yamasaki Catleap off ebay used from a America Seller. Has perfect pixels from the tests and use he has done thus far. However he lost the monitor stand. Not a big deal the stand isnt all that great anyways. Scored for 240$.

I am looking for some help with a good monitor stand with height adjust and pivot any suggestions please.

Thanks


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Breitz1*
> 
> I just scored a yamasaki Catleap off ebay used from a America Seller. Has perfect pixels from the tests and use he has done thus far. However he lost the monitor stand. Not a big deal the stand isnt all that great anyways. Scored for 240$.
> I am looking for some help with a good monitor stand with height adjust and pivot any suggestions please.
> Thanks


Anything Ergotron.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> did you buy the Shimian?


My friend has one.


----------



## ntc3freak

Hey guys,

I'm new here. I just got my Catleap Q270 today, but there is one huge problem with it. IT DOESN'T TURN ON! I mean, it does turn on but only the backlight comes on, there's no picture.

The power LED just stays green, so it is getting the signal. My GPU is a Sapphire HD 6970, so it is more than enough, and I'm using dual link DVI-D cable (my own one, the one given is broken







)

any idea guys?


----------



## pgriffith

Hi all

I apologise if I'm revisiting something already asked.... it's 920+ pages !!! gimme a break









A couple of general questions first:

1. Is the Catleap Q270 still the best choice, or do Shimian/Achieva/Crossover etc etc offer anything that's better ?

2. Ebay sellers, any preferred over any other, or just buy the cheapest I can find from whoever will ship to Australia ?

Ok, maybe not the best thread for this question

I have a Sapphire 6990 .. specs here http://www.sapphiretech.com/presentation/product/?cid=1&gid=3&sgid=1041&lid=1&pid=1114&leg=0

As you can see it has 1 x DL-DVI 4 x Mini DP Ports and comes with 2 x DP - DVI adapters, but they are only Single Link. Obviously these monitors need Dual Link. So if I decide I like the first one and want to get a 2nd... or god help me , a 3rd.

What would be the monitor of choice that uses a Display Port Connection ?

and..... I've read that monitors that include any extra ports do so with the help of a scaler engine that adds input lag. How much input lag does it really add, too much for gaming ? (primary use)

Admittedly I do own 2 fairly average AOC e2795Vh monitors with TN panels. I have no idea what input lag they have, but I've seen claims from 7ms to 33ms. Regardless I've not experienced any input lag I can detect.

Thanks in advance to anyone who has any thoughts..

Cheers


----------



## ntc3freak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ntc3freak*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I'm new here. I just got my Catleap Q270 today, but there is one huge problem with it. IT DOESN'T TURN ON! I mean, it does turn on but only the backlight comes on, there's no picture.
> The power LED just stays green, so it is getting the signal. My GPU is a Sapphire HD 6970, so it is more than enough, and I'm using dual link DVI-D cable (my own one, the one given is broken
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> any idea guys?


Nevermind guys, I fixed the problem. It was actually the LCD ribbon cable that wasn't connected properly







First thing I did with this thing is completely remove the stand so i can install it on a VESA mount, hence the mistake with the ribbon cable. I was driven completely mad, I even swapped my graphics card for an old one to troubleshoot.

But that's okay, the thing works now, and my God 1440p is SHARP! My 1080p wallpaper looked immediately out of whack







I'm not even bothered to look for dead pixels or uneven backlighting, I knew what I was buying into, so might as well just enjoy it now, right? I have to say, coming from 21.5'' monitor, this thing is MASSIVE! Another thing that's massive, that Yamakasi logo, oh my God. I might tape it up and make it disappear









Otherwise I'm looking forward to using this thing more and appreciate it even more







thanks guys for all the info on this thread, it really helped me make my decision. Lastly, sure this thing is made so cheaply, but that's the point, it is cheap. I've been waiting for a long time to see affordable 27'' 1440p(1600p) IPS monitors on the market, but I'm tired of waiting. For now, this is worth the money, for that panel alone. Everything else doesn't matter really.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ntc3freak*
> 
> Nevermind guys, I fixed the problem. It was actually the LCD ribbon cable that wasn't connected properly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> First thing I did with this thing is completely remove the stand so i can install it on a VESA mount, hence the mistake with the ribbon cable. I was driven completely mad, I even swapped my graphics card for an old one to troubleshoot.
> But that's okay, the thing works now, and my God 1440p is SHARP! My 1080p wallpaper looked immediately out of whack
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not even bothered to look for dead pixels or uneven backlighting, I knew what I was buying into, so might as well just enjoy it now, right? I have to say, coming from 21.5'' monitor, this thing is MASSIVE! Another thing that's massive, that Yamakasi logo, oh my God. I might tape it up and make it disappear
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Otherwise I'm looking forward to using this thing more and appreciate it even more
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks guys for all the info on this thread, it really helped me make my decision. Lastly, sure this thing is made so cheaply, but that's the point, it is cheap. I've been waiting for a long time to see affordable 27'' 1440p(1600p) IPS monitors on the market, but I'm tired of waiting. For now, this is worth the money, for that panel alone. Everything else doesn't matter really.


Yes a 27" monitor is bigger than must people think.

At 1440p and 27" there is a massive difference between that and 1080p.


----------



## Layo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pgriffith*
> 
> Hi all
> I apologise if I'm revisiting something already asked.... it's 920+ pages !!! gimme a break
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A couple of general questions first:
> 1. Is the Catleap Q270 still the best choice, or do Shimian/Achieva/Crossover etc etc offer anything that's better ?
> 2. Ebay sellers, any preferred over any other, or just buy the cheapest I can find from whoever will ship to Australia ?


1. Crossover seems to be best.
2. Acessorieswhore, bigclothcraft are most used here, maybe green-sum but had bad experiences with him few days ago. Don't buy from lightnspace or the astrobile


----------



## Klouczech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Layo*
> 
> 1. Crossover seems to be best.
> 2. Acessorieswhore, bigclothcraft are most used here, maybe green-sum but had bad experiences with him few days ago. Don't buy from lightnspace or the astrobile


FINALY some informations, thanks.

Is Crossover also better than LG, Qnix, iRun, Tomato, Samsung S27B370... ?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Agreed, It could also have a section in the OP answering all the questions that are constantly asked to reduce the amount of pointless posts.


No one would search for it. I've seen a lot of questions pop up that are already answered by looking at the OP.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> No one would search for it. I've seen a lot of questions pop up that are already answered by looking at the OP.


And it's usually people who make an account just to ask the question, reading the op thoroughly will provide an answer in a shorter time than it takes to register an account.


----------



## Jedi21

Hi guys,

Catleaps'prices from the reccomended sellers have spiked, so I'm considering the now-way-less-expensive Crossover or getting a Catleap with Tempered Glass from DreamSeller..

What would you suggest?

Thanks in advance


----------



## ivoryg37

Whats a good stand that I could get to replace the stock one? I would like to be able to adjust it up and down


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ivoryg37*
> 
> Whats a good stand that I could get to replace the stock one? I would like to be able to adjust it up and down


It really depends on how much your wanting to spend.
The cheaper option would be to go for some of the less expensive ones that are fairly good like this one here

Or go for my favourite the Ergotron stands which are expensive like this one


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedi21*
> 
> Hi guys,
> Catleaps'prices from the reccomended sellers have spiked, so I'm considering the now-way-less-expensive Crossover or getting a Catleap with Tempered Glass from DreamSeller..
> What would you suggest?
> Thanks in advance


shimian ones are still around 320. reasonable.

yeah not sure what happened to catleap ones.

if getting more expensive then get those crossover 30 inch ones for like 700.

maybe boxing day can be cheaper.


----------



## winterrr

I just recently learned of these korean 1440p monitors. Is it still possible nowadays to get one that can do 90hz+ refresh rate on ebay? if so, which ones? Thanks!


----------



## eternal7trance

It's in the OP...


----------



## r3vrb

im looking for a new monitor but i cant find if the catleap2300 can achieve 120hz ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r3vrb*
> 
> im looking for a new monitor but i cant find if the catleap2300 can achieve 120hz ?


No.
Quote:


> I just recently learned of these korean 1440p monitors. Is it still possible nowadays to get one that can do 90hz+ refresh rate on ebay? if so, which ones? Thanks!


No.


----------



## borandi

Apologies for not reading the whole thread









I can't see any difference between the Catleap 271 and 271i models.

271: link

271i: link

What would be the difference if anyone has these models? I already have a 270, but the 271 offers the wider range of inputs. Just wondering if the 271i is any different and if it would be worth it.


----------



## lilchronic

this guy on craigslist that lives not to far from me is selling aYamakasi Q270se 2560X1440 27 for $250 should i get it


----------



## p4j1

Recently my monitor has started playing up when I turn it on:






If I turn the screen off and back on again it seems to fix the problem, but there are also times when I turn the monitor on and there's just a blank screen.

Anyone know what's going on?

Thanks in advance


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borandi*
> 
> Apologies for not reading the whole thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see any difference between the Catleap 271 and 271i models.
> 271: link
> 271i: link
> What would be the difference if anyone has these models? I already have a 270, but the 271 offers the wider range of inputs. Just wondering if the 271i is any different and if it would be worth it.


The "i" has a higher tolerance for dead pixels.
If you look at the policies the "i" is up to 20 and the normal one is up to 5.
If you want to take the risk and go for the "i" you could still get a perfect panel but is less likely.
It's up to you which you go for, personally I've only ever bought perfect pixel monitors because I hate dead pixels and they drive me crazy.


----------



## Jedi21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> this guy on craigslist that lives not to far from me is selling aYamakasi Q270se 2560X1440 27 for $250 should i get it


Ask him if you can go to his place and check it before buying, then you should be good to go









Maybe you're lucky and you get an old OV version!


----------



## cmc850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> The "i" has a higher tolerance for dead pixels.
> If you look at the policies the "i" is up to 20 and the normal one is up to 5.
> If you want to take the risk and go for the "i" you could still get a perfect panel but is less likely.
> It's up to you which you go for, personally I've only ever bought perfect pixel monitors because I hate dead pixels and they drive me crazy.


I bought the non-"i" version of the q271 last week - was cheaper then, no dead pixels on mine. If you already have a q270, keep in mind the 271 (at least mine) is NOT a glossy panel. I've seen Youtube videos of another that did appear glossy...so maybe they vary. If the 271 has a glass variant, I have yet to see it.


----------



## borandi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *borandi*
> 
> Apologies for not reading the whole thread
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't see any difference between the Catleap 271 and 271i models.
> 271: link
> 271i: link
> What would be the difference if anyone has these models? I already have a 270, but the 271 offers the wider range of inputs. Just wondering if the 271i is any different and if it would be worth it.
> 
> 
> 
> The "i" has a higher tolerance for dead pixels.
> If you look at the policies the "i" is up to 20 and the normal one is up to 5.
> If you want to take the risk and go for the "i" you could still get a perfect panel but is less likely.
> It's up to you which you go for, personally I've only ever bought perfect pixel monitors because I hate dead pixels and they drive me crazy.
Click to expand...

+REP

Though surely the non-i has a better tolerance. If I get an i and there are 12 dead pixels, then it's not faulty. If I get a non-i and there are 12 dead pixels, then it is faulty.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmc850*
> 
> I bought the non-"i" version of the q271 last week - was cheaper then, no dead pixels on mine. If you already have a q270, keep in mind the 271 (at least mine) is NOT a glossy panel. I've seen Youtube videos of another that did appear glossy...so maybe they vary. If the 271 has a glass variant, I have yet to see it.


+REP

I'm using them for GPU testing at 2560x1440, so dead pixels or panel surface are not major drawbacks.


----------



## eternal7trance

There's actually no difference in what monitor you get when you pick perfect pixel vs a normal one. Just a scam to make you pay more money. There are people who have bought perfect pixel and got ones that weren't.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> There's actually no difference in what monitor you get when you pick perfect pixel vs a normal one. Just a scam to make you pay more money. There are people who have bought perfect pixel and got ones that weren't.


I only paid extra so I definitely got a perfect monitor as I have the right to a new monitor at their shipping expense so I wasn't worried about getting a panel with defects.


----------



## Mygaffer

I have not been satisfied with my 6950 at 1440 but it seems like a waste to upgrade when the next generation is no more than 3 months away.


----------



## aaa12585

Hey guys, While I'm not currently in the money to getting one of these fantastic monitors yet, I'm still browsing around on these versions. While I would like to get a 2B model, it's highly unlikely due to prices.









I am looking at the Q270 SE model and I was curious, does it have ANY overclocking potential what-so-ever? maybe even to 75Hz-100Hz?

If not *(I know your opinions can't discern what I personally see, but I'd like to hear what you guys have to say)*, is 60Hz really enough for such a large resolution? I've been on some 1920x1080/1600x1050 monitors (LG & Asus) with 60Hz and the mouse pointer always has a subtle lag to it. While I am used to playing with 1280x1024/1440x900 monitors with a 75hz refresh rate, it's not really that big of a deal; the loss is worth it. However, I'd like to know if the performance degradation I see in those larger monitors is going to be the same on this higher resolution. Will I notice it _*more*_ or just about the same?

Also, anyone have links/references to people that sell the monitor (with pixel perfect/4 or less dead pixels guarantee) cheaper than Ebay's listings of $500?


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaa12585*
> 
> Hey guys, While I'm not currently in the money to getting one of these fantastic monitors yet, I'm still browsing around on these versions. While I would like to get a 2B model, it's highly unlikely due to prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am looking at the Q270 SE model and I was curious, does it have ANY overclocking potential what-so-ever? maybe even to 75Hz-100Hz?
> If not *(I know your opinions can't discern what I personally see, but I'd like to hear what you guys have to say)*, is 60Hz really enough for such a large resolution? I've been on some 1920x1080/1600x1050 monitors (LG & Asus) with 60Hz and the mouse pointer always has a subtle lag to it. While I am used to playing with 1280x1024/1440x900 monitors with a 75hz refresh rate, it's not really that big of a deal; the loss is worth it. However, I'd like to know if the performance degradation I see in those larger monitors is going to be the same on this higher resolution. Will I notice it _*more*_ or just about the same?
> Also, anyone have links/references to people that sell the monitor (with pixel perfect/4 or less dead pixels guarantee) cheaper than $500 on ebay?


Only the Overlord OC and the 120hz.net models will do higher than 60hz.

All the current models seem to frame skip. It'll take 60+ FPS but it'll frame skip and just work as a 60hz monitor.

Are you talking about input lag or pixel response?

Mouse lagging = input lag and mouse blurring = pixel response.

If you're worried about input lag, get the single input model.

Pixel response, these are on par with the Apple Cinema monitors so go check those out and you'll have an idea about the Koreans.

If you can check it out in person, just move the mouse around a lot. If you can notice it, you'll probably notice it on the Koreans.

60hz is fine. Between a 120hz monitor with crappy pixel response vs a 60hz monitor with great pixel response. I'll take the one with great pixel response.

Most media is encoded at lower than 60fps, so I wouldn't worry so much. I think TV is like 24 FPS?

You'll definitely feel a hit on FPS in games though. 1440 takes much more horsepower than a 1080. What GPU's are you running? I wouldn't worry about getting an overclockable monitor unless you got the GPU's to push it.

Wish I could help you on vendors. Demand been pushing prices up.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Only the Overlord OC and the 120hz.net models will do higher than 60hz.
> All the current models seem to frame skip. It'll take 60+ FPS but it'll frame skip and just work as a 60hz monitor.
> Are you talking about input lag or pixel response?
> Mouse lagging = input lag and mouse blurring = pixel response.
> If you're worried about input lag, get the single input model.
> Pixel response, these are on par with the Apple Cinema monitors so go check those out and you'll have an idea about the Koreans.
> If you can check it out in person, just move the mouse around a lot. If you can notice it, you'll probably notice it on the Koreans.
> 60hz is fine. Between a 120hz monitor with crappy pixel response vs a 60hz monitor with great pixel response. I'll take the one with great pixel response.
> Most media is encoded at lower than 60fps, so I wouldn't worry so much. I think TV is like 24 FPS?
> You'll definitely feel a hit on FPS in games though. 1440 takes much more horsepower than a 1080. What GPU's are you running? I wouldn't worry about getting an overclockable monitor unless you got the GPU's to push it.
> Wish I could help you on vendors. Demand been pushing prices up.


That's why single input monitors are clearly better than multi input monitors for PC gaming.

Faster pixel response time.

Also heard that some Korean models have faster pixel response times than others.


----------



## aaa12585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> You'll definitely feel a hit on FPS in games though. 1440 takes much more horsepower than a 1080. What GPU's are you running? I wouldn't worry about getting an overclockable monitor unless you got the GPU's to push it.
> Wish I could help you on vendors. Demand been pushing prices up.


Really appreciate the response! +rep

Do extra inputs add input lag even if they're not in use?

I'm only sporting a single GTX 460, That would suffice, wouldn't it? (Wouldn't entirely think so after reading how many people were using 680s and such. Lol)

This monitor will be a beginning foundation for the GPUs I buy in the future, so an upgrade from this wouldn't be that far away if I really needed it.


----------



## p4j1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p4j1*
> 
> Recently my monitor has started playing up when I turn it on:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If I turn the screen off and back on again it seems to fix the problem, but there are also times when I turn the monitor on and there's just a blank screen.
> Anyone know what's going on?
> Thanks in advance


Anyone?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> That's why single input monitors are clearly better than multi input monitors for PC gaming.
> Faster pixel response time.
> Also heard that some Korean models have faster pixel response times than others.


They all the the same pixel response times - multi input and single input. Input lag is superior (ie, less input lag) on single input monitors versus multi-input. The pixels themselves though, change at the same rate.


----------



## evilferret

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> That's why single input monitors are clearly better than multi input monitors for PC gaming.
> Faster pixel response time.
> Also heard that some Korean models have faster pixel response times than others.


Pixel response has nothing to do with inputs.

Agreed that single input is ideal for gaming but that's due to input lag and not pixel response.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaa12585*
> 
> Really appreciate the response! +rep
> Do extra inputs add input lag even if they're not in use?
> I'm only sporting a single GTX 460, That would suffice, wouldn't it? (Wouldn't entirely think so after reading how many people were using 680s and such. Lol)
> This monitor will be a beginning foundation for the GPUs I buy in the future, so an upgrade from this wouldn't be that far away if I really needed it.


Even when not in use, the extra inputs will create input lag.

Depends how nit picky you are on graphic settings? I still swap between my monitors depending on games.

What games are you playing?


----------



## aaa12585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *evilferret*
> 
> Pixel response has nothing to do with inputs.
> Agreed that single input is ideal for gaming but that's due to input lag and not pixel response.
> Even when not in use, the extra inputs will create input lag.
> Depends how nit picky you are on graphic settings? I still swap between my monitors depending on games.
> What games are you playing?


I play FPS games most of the time. Specifically, Battlefield 3. Lack of graphics is no issue for me when BF3 has great graphics already; even for their preset "Medium" settings.
Although, you do bring an interesting suggestion. I could just switch back to my old monitor if I wish to play with a higher frame rate.









If that is the case for input lag, I'll just stick with the single-input version.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hey heads up! Q270 from Green Sum has free pixel checking, free shipping, and is selling for $379 USD. http://tinyurl.com/d8op7rr

Just thought I'd give you guys a heads-up as you may want to buy me one for Christmas and my birthday (27th) coming up.. LOL


----------



## borandi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Hey heads up! Q270 from Green Sum has free pixel checking, free shipping, and is selling for $379 USD. http://tinyurl.com/d8op7rr
> 
> Just thought I'd give you guys a heads-up as you may want to buy me one for Christmas and my birthday (27th) coming up.. LOL


Isn't pixel checking different to perfect pixel? Aren't all these monitors 'pixel checked' such that the conform to the 1-5 dead pixel policy


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borandi*
> 
> Isn't pixel checking different to perfect pixel? Aren't all these monitors 'pixel checked' such that the conform to the 1-5 dead pixel policy


All the LG panels are checked before supply to these Korean monitor companies. They must comply with the specifications regarding pixels and backlights.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

You can rub the dead pixels away with numerous massaging sessions and a micro fiber clothe. Just don't buy the tempered glass models or you cannot do this trick and you risk the possibility of having dust behind the glass.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> *You can rub the dead pixels away with numerous massaging sessions and a micro fiber clothe.* Just don't buy the tempered glass models or you cannot do this trick and you risk the possibility of having dust behind the glass. /quote]
> 
> Really?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Really?


It is possible that it might work, I know I've done it on one of my old monitors and worked. You can also get rid of them by leaving the monitor on for a long time, but if you turn it off for a long time it will come back. I've had this happen to me as well.
But it might not be dead pixels but stuck pixels.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Really?
> 
> 
> 
> It is possible that it might work, I know I've done it on one of my old monitors and worked. You can also get rid of them by leaving the monitor on for a long time, but if you turn it off for a long time it will come back. I've had this happen to me as well.
> But it might not be dead pixels but stuck pixels.
Click to expand...

@Koehler - Yes really.

Thanks Hamy! +rep for the leave the monitor on thing.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> It is possible that it might work, I know I've done it on one of my old monitors and worked. You can also get rid of them by leaving the monitor on for a long time, but if you turn it off for a long time it will come back. I've had this happen to me as well.
> *But it might not be dead pixels but stuck pixels.*


That's what I thought because dead pixels don't receive any power.


----------



## coolxal

Has anyone bought from dream-seller recently?

I've heard good things about this seller months ago but his rating is only 98.5% compared to AW and BBC who have 99.8% and 99.2% respectively.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Has anyone bought from dream-seller recently?
> I've heard good things about this seller months ago but his rating is only 98.5% compared to AW and BBC who have 99.8% and 99.2% respectively.


The 1% difference should be taken with a grain of salt.


----------



## King4x4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Has anyone bought from dream-seller recently?
> I've heard good things about this seller months ago but his rating is only 98.5% compared to AW and BBC who have 99.8% and 99.2% respectively.


I bought two achivias from him and one of them had a major defect (1 min of use and it was shutting down).

Sent it back and he paid me the transportation bills and a full refund. Needed to grill him though and open an ebay case to get him worked.

Overall if you are within the ebay case duration you are safe.

Oh yah the achivia sucks compared to my Yamakasi... got a yellowish tinge ;/


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> I bought two achivias from him and one of them had a major defect (1 min of use and it was shutting down).
> Sent it back and he paid me the transportation bills and a full refund. Needed to grill him though and open an ebay case to get him worked.
> Overall if you are within the ebay case duration you are safe.
> Oh yah the achivia sucks compared to my Yamakasi... got a yellowish tinge ;/


I thought they all use the same panels though. Glossy 8 bit.


----------



## King4x4

For the life of me I cannot get the Achivia to be calibrated correctly.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Has anyone bought from dream-seller recently?
> 
> I've heard good things about this seller months ago but his rating is only 98.5% compared to AW and BBC who have 99.8% and 99.2% respectively.


Lawl
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Has anyone bought from dream-seller recently?
> I've heard good things about this seller months ago but his rating is only 98.5% compared to AW and BBC who have 99.8% and 99.2% respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> The 1% difference should be taken with a grain of salt.
Click to expand...

lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *King4x4*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *coolxal*
> 
> Has anyone bought from dream-seller recently?
> I've heard good things about this seller months ago but his rating is only 98.5% compared to AW and BBC who have 99.8% and 99.2% respectively.
> 
> 
> 
> I bought two achivias from him and one of them had a major defect (1 min of use and it was shutting down).
> 
> Sent it back and he paid me the transportation bills and a full refund. Needed to grill him though and open an ebay case to get him worked.
> 
> Overall if you are within the ebay case duration you are safe.
> 
> Oh yah the achivia sucks compared to my Yamakasi... got a yellowish tinge ;/
Click to expand...

Sucks


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Lawl
> lol
> Sucks


Umm, yes?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

They always get you with that 1%!


----------



## coolxal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> The 1% difference should be taken with a grain of salt.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> They always get you with that 1%!


Don't know why you're making fun of the 1%. On eBay most sellers are between 97% - 100% rating. I take it like a grading curve (i.e. 97% might be an A+ normally but when everyone is getting 97% - 100%, the 97% is more like a C+).

And 1% can amount up to 100s of transactions depending on the number of sales the seller has. Just my opinion.

Anyways, from what I've read he seems to be a good seller for the most part.


----------



## Apocalyp53

Perfect pixel for $375, should I pull the trigger with this seller? Any advice much appreciated.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-WHITE-WQHD-S-IPS-Speaker-LED-27-Perfect-Pixel-Free-Volt-/271127148630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f206ff856

-Apocalypse


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalyp53*
> 
> Perfect pixel for $375, should I pull the trigger with this seller? Any advice much appreciated.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-WHITE-WQHD-S-IPS-Speaker-LED-27-Perfect-Pixel-Free-Volt-/271127148630?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3f206ff856
> -Apocalypse


Yes.

Actually you should look at the CrossOver 27Q LED first. Better build quality and design. Same price.


----------



## AMDnNvidiaDude1

hi guys any just bought one of these and just decided tio join this forum,any one running one of these with a 560ti OC 1gb


----------



## temenos

I have a pretty simple question. Does the stock mount angle down? All of the display pictures have it angled slightly upwards, eg //

I need to have it the other way, eg \\

Is this supported out of the box or do I need to mod it?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *temenos*
> 
> I have a pretty simple question. Does the stock mount angle down? All of the display pictures have it angled slightly upwards, eg //
> I need to have it the other way, eg \\
> Is this supported out of the box or do I need to mod it?


Yes it does but not by much i'd say about 5 degrees.
I took a picture for you with one of mine fully forward.



Awful quality but you get the jist of how much it can tilt forward.


----------



## cmc850

Question for anyone who has mounted either the Q271 or 2703 to a wall or desk arm via vesa mount....it appears that, unlike the Q270, the "foot" can be removed easily from the monitor lower edge without removing the back? There appears to be two screws holding that elliptical piece in a slot?


----------



## RandomHer0

Dear owners of Catleaps. I have what could be a potentially dumb question, so be nice ;p
The q270 se seem to be more pricey at the moment than the model with the built in speaker. Very odd that a model with an additional feature costs less, but I presume this is just because the se models are more highly sought after.
My question is: Are there any performance disadvantages to buying the q270 with built in speakers? I'm thinking in terms of input lag increase like you get with the model with additional inputs (I have no intention of using these speakers mind, just that the screen is cheaper with them)

Thanks for your help


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RandomHer0*
> 
> Dear owners of Catleaps. I have what could be a potentially dumb question, so be nice ;p
> The q270 se seem to be more pricey at the moment than the model with the built in speaker. Very odd that a model with an additional feature costs less, but I presume this is just because the se models are more highly sought after.
> My question is: Are there any performance disadvantages to buying the q270 with built in speakers? I'm thinking in terms of input lag increase like you get with the model with additional inputs (I have no intention of using these speakers mind, just that the screen is cheaper with them)
> Thanks for your help


No


----------



## rick19011

Which 30inch model has the best build/pic quality? Theres so many different models I don't know which is best!
I know if I went for a 27inch I would want a 30inch in the future so will take the plunge for a 30inch monitor now!


----------



## borandi

Got another Q270, this time with multi-input. £258 from ebay, then £48 import tax and 'DHL Admin Fees'


----------



## temenos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Yes it does but not by much i'd say about 5 degrees.
> I took a picture for you with one of mine fully forward.
> (pic)
> Awful quality but you get the jist of how much it can tilt forward.


Thanks a bunch. Exactly what I was looking for.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borandi*
> 
> Got another Q270, this time with multi-input. £258 from ebay, then £48 import tax and 'DHL Admin Fees'


It seams there is no way around them, they've been chasing me for their 'Fees' on the one I though they had missed but it seams not.
Although since they released it to me before they demanded the fees I have no obligation to pay them so hopefully I hear no more of it.


----------



## borandi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *borandi*
> 
> Got another Q270, this time with multi-input. £258 from ebay, then £48 import tax and 'DHL Admin Fees'
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It seams there is no way around them, they've been chasing me for their 'Fees' on the one I though they had missed but it seams not.
> Although since they released it to me before they demanded the fees I have no obligation to pay them so hopefully I hear no more of it.
Click to expand...

They seem to have two different policies depending on how customs deals with the package.

I get on average 3-5 packages a week from the USA, Taiwan and the Netherlands. All of them should have duty paid by the sender. About 90% go through normally, but 5% arrive with a bill after delivery. Even after delivery you are still liable, and they can notify the finance authorities about non-payment which will lower your credit rating. As all my packages I get are duty payable by sender, I just tell them to re-read the scan of the documentation, or forward them on to the sender.

However, my last Q270 arrived without a bill for taxes and duty at all. It really seems a hit and miss


----------



## RandomHer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> No


cheers


----------



## mpatel93

Hey so, I have a yamakasi catleap for about 2 months and I have a 7970 for gaming. I usually turn everything to ultra and use the highest aa and mxaa settings, I get about 30-40fps due to this, I have just found out that aa is useless at this resolution. So can you guys tell me what settings you use and is aa is useless as Im looking to get about 60fps. Thanks


----------



## gezer

I have a Crossover monitor, would a Catleap make a great 2nd monitor with it?


----------



## x1x1x1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Breitz1*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> mine finally came in the mail from an a guy on ebay reselling without a stand. Could only find 1 dead pixel otherwise its perfect. got it for 230$ great deal.
> 
> 
> 
> This is my old set up 3x 22" AOC LED monitors 1920 x 1080 p (going up for sale btw if anyone is interested good deal on all three PM me)
> 
> 
> 
> I was thinking about using one or two of them as side monitors instead but I don't want to junk up my desk what do you guys think?
> 
> Also having trouble finding a good stand for it I would like one that has height adjustment and can do portrait mode any thoughts?


cool setup! are those soundsticks by klipsch?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Why is the pic upside down?


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Why is the pic upside down?


Monitors are mounted on the roof. Keyboard/mouse are stored there when not in use. Really innovative setup.


----------



## crossbred900

Does anybody know of a good way to attach speakers to the side of one of these that is mounted on a wall? There wont be a desk to set them on and the monitor will be on a mount with an arm at an almost perpendicular angle. I found this http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=108&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082804&p_id=9900&seq=1&format=2 which could potentially be used if I got a Vesa adapter plate. I'm not sure what else I could do besides not have speakers on the left and right.

Edit: I just saw a video of a guy using velcro to do this. Are the sides of a Catleap flat enough to stick a velcro strip on? Some of the pictures look like they might have curved sides.


----------



## TFSnameless

I just got a qnix qx2700 from red-cap and it seems to have a problem(not surprisingly) with the power adaptor or at least I hope its with the power adaptor and not the monitor. It will work fine for 1-2h then the screen will start to lose focus for a second, this happens only once every min or 2 at first then starts happening every 5-10 seconds. I assume that this is caused by the power brick overheating then having its output voltage drop. I measured the outside temp of the brick and its around 40c so its likely quite a bit warmer than that on the inside. Anyone else have a similar problem?

The power brick is the Frontek fps0120 one.


----------



## eternal7trance

Why do people keep making new accounts and asking questions about other monitors? I don't remember this being a "All Korean Monitor" thread.

Back on topic, almost time to buy another Catleap.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TFSnameless*
> 
> I just got a qnix qx2700 from red-cap and it seems to have a problem(not surprisingly) with the power adaptor or at least I hope its with the power adaptor and not the monitor. It will work fine for 1-2h then the screen will start to lose focus for a second, this happens only once every min or 2 at first then starts happening every 5-10 seconds. I assume that this is caused by the power brick overheating then having its output voltage drop. I measured the outside temp of the brick and its around 40c so its likely quite a bit warmer than that on the inside. Anyone else have a similar problem?
> 
> The power brick is the Frontek fps0120 one.


Welcome to OCN! This thread is all about Catleap monitors so if you have a problem with another monitor you will have to create a new thread.









@BJK And the TV is upside for what purpose mr. smarty?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RandomHer0*
> 
> Dear owners of Catleaps. I have what could be a potentially dumb question, so be nice ;p
> The q270 se seem to be more pricey at the moment than the model with the built in speaker. Very odd that a model with an additional feature costs less, but I presume this is just because the se models are more highly sought after.
> My question is: Are there any performance disadvantages to buying the q270 with built in speakers? I'm thinking in terms of input lag increase like you get with the model with additional inputs (I have no intention of using these speakers mind, just that the screen is cheaper with them)
> Thanks for your help


No there aren't. However most speakers on monitors suck. Not sure about Yamakasi Catleaps though.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> No there aren't. However most speakers on monitors suck. Not sure about Yamakasi Catleaps though.


I can confirm they suck, worst speakers I've ever heard.
But I have only used them once when I had no speakers temporarily.
One of mine has speakers the other doesn't and I've seen no performance loss.


----------



## crossbred900

Wow, the prices of these have shot up in the last few weeks. Has anybody dealt with the seller tgvmall? They seem to have the cheapest single input q270 right now, a "perfect pixel" for $499 with free shipping. They also have 19 other listings for sale with increasing prices, all the way up to a Multi for $550 plus $100 shipping. I really wish I could have got one of these months ago when they were cheaper, and before the listings got so complicated.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossbred900*
> 
> Wow, the prices of these have shot up in the last few weeks. Has anybody dealt with the seller tgvmall? They seem to have the cheapest single input q270 right now, a "perfect pixel" for $499 with free shipping. They also have 19 other listings for sale with increasing prices, all the way up to a Multi for $550 plus $100 shipping. I really wish I could have got one of these months ago when they were cheaper, and before the listings got so complicated.


It's called the seller's advantage. When a product is popular, the seller can jack up the price.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Just wait and it'll drop back down around early February.


----------



## RandomHer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossbred900*
> 
> Wow, the prices of these have shot up in the last few weeks. Has anybody dealt with the seller tgvmall? They seem to have the cheapest single input q270 right now, a "perfect pixel" for $499 with free shipping. They also have 19 other listings for sale with increasing prices, all the way up to a Multi for $550 plus $100 shipping. I really wish I could have got one of these months ago when they were cheaper, and before the listings got so complicated.


Noticed the exact same thing with the SE model. I did a quick check for the model with built in speakers and you can find those for a bit cheaper $~360-$380 Aus. Have a look at those and see what you can find. Have to presume a price drop will come if the ShiMian and Crossover stay lower


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RandomHer0*
> 
> Noticed the exact same thing with the SE model. I did a quick check for the model with built in speakers and you can find those for a bit cheaper $~360-$380 Aus. Have a look at those and see what you can find. Have to presume a price drop will come if the ShiMian and Crossover stay lower


Actually I think the Yamakasi is more popular than most except for maybe CrossOver.

More friends own the CrossOver 27Q LED than the Yamakasi Catleap.

The CrossOver 27Q LED has also increased in price over the past 3 months and I respect that because they have better build quality and design than the Yamakasi Catleap.


----------



## borandi

My Q271 arrived to complement the Q270... And the base of the monitors don't match up. Have to prop one up with books to get them level


----------



## crossbred900

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> Just wait and it'll drop back down around early February.


Is there some significance to February that makes you think they will drop down then? Or just because the holiday season will be over? I'll probably be ordering my Digital Storm computer next week, so I wouldn't be able to use it for at least a month if I waited.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Actually I think the Yamakasi is more popular than most except for maybe CrossOver.
> More friends own the CrossOver 27Q LED than the Yamakasi Catleap.
> The CrossOver 27Q LED has also increased in price over the past 3 months and I respect that because they have better build quality and design than the Yamakasi Catleap.


I might need to find a CrossOver monitor club thread.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *borandi*
> 
> My Q271 arrived to complement the Q270... And the base of the monitors don't match up. Have to prop one up with books to get them level


How do you like the Q271? korexbuy has some for $397.20 and they say "perfect pixel" but not what that means to them, just standard 1 in the middle or more than 5 on the sides. I was initially gravitating towards listings that let you get a square trade warranty, but this one doesn't. I'm not trying to be a pro gamer so unless the lag from multiple inputs is significant I'd probably not notice. I also like that you can wall mount it without having to take it apart.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossbred900*
> 
> Is there some significance to February that makes you think they will drop down then? Or just because the holiday season will be over? I'll probably be ordering my Digital Storm computer next week, so I wouldn't be able to use it for at least a month if I waited.
> I might need to find a CrossOver monitor club thread.
> How do you like the Q271? korexbuy has some for $397.20 and they say "perfect pixel" but not what that means to them, just standard 1 in the middle or more than 5 on the sides. I was initially gravitating towards listings that let you get a square trade warranty, but this one doesn't. I'm not trying to be a pro gamer so unless the lag from multiple inputs is significant I'd probably not notice. I also like that you can wall mount it without having to take it apart.


I don't expect prices to drop anytime soon really.


----------



## The viking

Quick question guys!

I've got my catleap 27" here, and I want to hook this up to a laptop. The computer only has vga and hdmi for external monitors, while my catleap only has DVI.

Whenever I connect the monitor using an adapter from dvi-hdmi, I can't extend the desktop. It only says "could not store display settings". What am I doing wrong here?
The graphics card I have on this laptop is a Geforce GT 555M. I am a bit worried that this graphics card might not be able to handle the high res? Any thoughts on the problem?


----------



## borandi

When you buy these monitors, there's an explicit warning 'Not for laptop use'. This is because of the Add-in board used on these panels.

Also, chances are your HDMI conversion is limited to 1080p like most internal graphic solutions.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The viking*
> 
> Quick question guys!
> I've got my catleap 27" here, and I want to hook this up to a laptop. The computer only has vga and hdmi for external monitors, while my catleap only has DVI.
> Whenever I connect the monitor using an adapter from dvi-hdmi, I can't extend the desktop. It only says "could not store display settings". What am I doing wrong here?
> The graphics card I have on this laptop is a Geforce GT 555M. I am a bit worried that this graphics card might not be able to handle the high res? Any thoughts on the problem?


The GPU in your laptop must be Dual Link DVI, unless something's changed. These monitors only work with Dual-Link DVI, unless they are multi-input.


----------



## phillyd

What are some good sellers that offer pixel perfect at the lowest possible price?
Also, is pixel perfect 0 dead pixels or less than a small number?


----------



## holin

Hi, I bought monitor - YAMAKASI Q270LED MULTI
This is a very good monitor. But now broken. Blinking screen. Lights up and goes off screen.








It is suspected that this is a broken board.
Which one of them. 1. Is stuck to the back of the matrix
[http://www.ii4.ru/image-310131.html
Or 2. Bolted to the back cover with video-input
http://www.ii4.ru/image-310128.html


----------



## Crezzlin

Not been on for ages. Any news on the caleap monitors, is 100+Hz an improvement over the stock 60 or not and has anyone been able to run 3d on these.. Thanks


----------



## cmc850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmc850*
> 
> Question for anyone who has mounted either the Q271 or 2703 to a wall or desk arm via vesa mount....it appears that, unlike the Q270, the "foot" can be removed easily from the monitor lower edge without removing the back? There appears to be two screws holding that elliptical piece in a slot?


Having just mounted this to an Ergotron LX/HP arm, I'll answer my own question....It ain't as easy as I thought. Although the 271 does not have the silver piece covering the vesa holes, you do need to remove the back cover and a couple screws that secure the panel to the chassis, allowing access to screws that attach the "foot" from the inside. I suppose you could leave the foot (leg?) on and remove the base, but that would look odd and prevent lowering the monitor down to the desk.

BTW, the HP-branded version of the Ergotron LX arm is an excellent choice for this monitor.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holin*
> 
> Hi, I bought monitor - YAMAKASI Q270LED MULTI
> This is a very good monitor. But now broken. Blinking screen. Lights up and goes off screen.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It is suspected that this is a broken board.
> Which one of them. 1. Is stuck to the back of the matrix
> [http://www.ii4.ru/image-310131.html
> Or 2. Bolted to the back cover with video-input
> http://www.ii4.ru/image-310128.html


Possibly bad power brick?


----------



## holin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Possibly bad power brick?


Why do you think so?
PS
Where can I find this PCB HY-9785d rev.02
http://www.ii4.ru/image-310856.html
or is what wrong inside PCB.
I wrote to the seller, but no reply.


----------



## mothmanex

Hello, just changed from my Q270 to the Q271. Does anybody knows how to reduce the brightness (led)?


----------



## Manishmanny

Can someone please explain all the models of the monitor( multi, SE, etc,) to me? I wanna buy one on ebay but i dont know which one im buying because the platform these korean's put up are confusing....


----------



## shadcrkd

Has anyone had any experience with this Monoprice desk mount?
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=6419&seq=1&format=2

I know it says it only supports up to 23", but the regular desk stand said that as well and fits the Q270 nicely.

I'm looking at this one over
http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5400&seq=1&format=3#specification

because it looks more sturdily built


----------



## KarmaKiller

I have 2 of these: http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=109&cp_id=10828&cs_id=1082808&p_id=5400&seq=1&format=3#specification
And they are great to be honest. They are solid metal, and not flimsy at all. The only downside I could see is the way that the screens tend to 'tilt' down. Make sure you have the locking washers flipped the right way around. I guess the other downside is the clamp part will only close to within an inch or so. So you need to find some kind of spacers to put on your desk top or have a think desk.
Honestly, I would recommend them though. I have 24" screens and they are plenty sturdy for them.


----------



## RandomHer0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Manishmanny*
> 
> Can someone please explain all the models of the monitor( multi, SE, etc,) to me? I wanna buy one on ebay but i dont know which one im buying because the platform these korean's put up are confusing....


http://www.swiftworld.net/2012/04/14/budget-korean-27-ips-monitor-information-and-comparison-of-the-different-brands-and-models/

^^ should explain everything u need to know about the budget panels


----------



## michaelcly

I bought a Yamakasi Q270Multi from Greensum on ebay on Nov 2. I paid $429 for it...the multi part adds about $50. It was worth the extra money to me. I had a similar experience to most:
Lightning fast Fedex Shipping, All the necessary parts were included. I thought I had no dead pixels but a couple weeks later, I noticed one in the lower right of the screen. It doesn't bother me in the least.

*The good:*
What a beautiful image.
It's a nice looking monitor (after you remove the sticker)
Relatively accurate color
Glossy screen (which I prefer)
External power source (normally I don't like this but on a monitor, it cuts down the weight. And, since it's cheap, I figured it would be easier to access if necessary)

*The bad:*
Wobbly stand accentuated by a small table on carpet.
The location of the control buttons. (You have to push up on them turning your monitor into a bobble head.)
No easy way to adjust brightness and contrast
The speakers sound like a 60's era 2 transistor radio
Slightly darker on the right side, only noticeable in whitepoint

I work all day on a print magazine on a 27" iMac and I can tell you this is almost the same. My imac has no fade. I even used some of my color profiles with success. I'm Very happy with this monitor.

*The SCARY!*
The stand was unusable so I got a vesa wall mount. Taking off the bezel was a snap (get it?  I didn't need to totally disassemble to remove the arch. The only cable I detached was the 10-wire connector on the switches. I just used a shorty screw driver and lifted the screen up about 5" and unscrewed the arch on the bottom and repeated on the top. I used a 10mm wrench and removed the stand then reassembled and mounted the monitor to the wall. PERFECT. No more bobble head. A week later I got the *DREADED FADE TO BLACK*. It only happened occasionally.

So, after some investigating on this site, I started with the Cable. I had another I knew to be good. It made a difference. Then it started again. So, I checked the power supply and connector. I removed the cover so it would run cooler. That made a bigger difference. I could work for about 25 minutes. But it still returned. I contacted Greensum and they sent me a new PS free. It hasn't got here yet, but it doesn't matter.

*SOLVED THE FADE TO BLACK!*

I next went for the connections inside. They were all tight. Reassembled and wow. It was real bad-barely usable. Disassembled completely and made sure everything was seated good. It was still bad. For some reason I always suspected the button switches. The connector and wires have to travel over the top of the switch and take a sharp turn down. Knowing the buttons are simple click on make-break things, I figured the display should run fine without the little ckt board. I removed it and left the connector hanging out.

BINGO! It ran flawlessly with heavy use for two days!

So, I plugged the circuit board in and just let it hang. it's fine as fine can be. Since I hated the button location anyway, I used some two-way tape and mounted the switches to the lower right back of the monitor. Now I can just put my thumb on the front an finger on the back and "pinch" to use them. I think I have a funky connector on the button switch circuit board.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelcly*
> 
> I bought a Yamakasi Q270Multi from Greensum on ebay on Nov 2. I paid $429 for it...the multi part adds about $50. It was worth the extra money to me. I had a similar experience to most:
> Lightning fast Fedex Shipping, All the necessary parts were included. I thought I had no dead pixels but a couple weeks later, I noticed one in the lower right of the screen. It doesn't bother me in the least.
> The good:
> What a beautiful image.
> It's a nice looking monitor (after you remove the sticker)
> Relatively accurate color
> Glossy screen (which I prefer)
> External power source (normally I don't like this but on a monitor, it cuts down the weight. And, since it's cheap, I figured it would be easier to access if necessary)
> The bad:
> Wobbly stand accentuated by a small table on carpet.
> The location of the control buttons. (You have to push up on them turning your monitor into a bobble head.)
> No easy way to adjust brightness and contrast
> The speakers sound like a 60's era 2 transistor radio
> Slightly darker on the right side, only noticeable in whitepoint
> I work all day on a print magazine on a 27" iMac and I can tell you this is almost the same. My imac has no fade. I even used some of my color profiles with success. I'm Very happy with this monitor.
> The SCARY!
> The stand was unusable so I got a vesa wall mount. Taking off the bezel was a snap (get it?  I didn't need to totally disassemble to remove the arch. The only cable I detached was the 10-wire connector on the switches. I just used a shorty screw driver and lifted the screen up about 5" and unscrewed the arch on the bottom and repeated on the top. I reassembled and mounted the monitor to the wall. PERFECT. No more bobble head. A week later I got the DREADED FADE TO BLACK. It only happened occasionally.
> So, after some investigating on this site, I started with the Cable. I had another I knew to be good. It made a difference. Then it started again. So, I checked the power supply and connector. I removed the cover so it would run cooler. That made a bigger difference. I could work for about 25 minutes. But it still returned. I contacted Greensum and they sent me a new PS free. It hasn't got here yet, but it doesn't matter.
> SOLVED THE FADE TO BLACK!
> I next went for the connections inside. They were all tight. Reassembled and wow. It was real bad-barely usable. Disassembled completely and made sure everything was seated good. It was still bad. For some reason I always suspected the button switches. The connector and wires have to travel over the top of the switch and take a sharp turn down. Knowing the buttons are simple click on make-break things, I figured the display should run fine without the little ckt board with the buttons. I removed it and left the connector hanging out.
> BINGO! It ran flawlessly with heavy use for two days!
> So, I plugged the circuit board in and just let it hang. it's fine as fine can be. Since I hated the button location anyway, I used some two-way tape and mounted the switches to the lower right back of the monitor. Now I can just "pinch" them to use them. I'm a happy man! Now it could be that reseating all the components did the trick but I don't think so. I think I have a funky connector on the button switch board.


Glad you solved the stand issue. My friends have several Yamakasi's and they haven't had many stand issues.


----------



## treesnhausen

I purchased a Catleap June last year which is the overclockable 2B version (link below)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Overclockable-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-Multi-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-LED-Monitor-HDMI-/150827199729?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item231e006cf1#ht_20862wt_905

Haven't had much luck overclocking this thing past 80Hz. I used the Hypermatrix drivers and followed the overclocking guide (link below)
I'm running x2 ASUS HD7970's on x-fire and have tried doing it with x-fire disabled and still can't get higher than 80Hz.






From what I read, I have a feeling the ATI software/drivers has limited the pixel clock rate.

I was wondering if there's anyone on here that has had luck overclocking their catleap Q270 2B version with a 7970 to at least 100Hz.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treesnhausen*
> 
> I purchased a Catleap June last year which is the overclockable 2B version (link below)
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Overclockable-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-Multi-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-LED-Monitor-HDMI-/150827199729?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item231e006cf1#ht_20862wt_905
> Haven't had much luck overclocking this thing past 80Hz. I used the Hypermatrix drivers and followed the overclocking guide (link below)
> I'm running x2 ASUS HD7970's on x-fire and have tried doing it with x-fire disabled and still can't get higher than 80Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I read, I have a feeling the ATI software/drivers has limited the pixel clock rate.
> I was wondering if there's anyone on here that has had luck overclocking their catleap Q270 2B version with a 7970 to at least 100Hz.


You don't have an overclockable Catleap, unfortunately. The seller does not know what he is selling. No multi-input 1440p monitor has been shown to be overclockable - at all. Not even to the 67hz limit non-overclockable single-input boards have.


----------



## michaelcly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Glad you solved the stand issue. My friends have several Yamakasi's and they haven't had many stand issues.


I actually liked the stand and the arch on the back. It would have been fine if I had a solid, heavy desk.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *treesnhausen*
> 
> I purchased a Catleap June last year which is the overclockable 2B version (link below)
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Overclockable-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-Multi-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-LED-Monitor-HDMI-/150827199729?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item231e006cf1#ht_20862wt_905
> Haven't had much luck overclocking this thing past 80Hz. I used the Hypermatrix drivers and followed the overclocking guide (link below)
> I'm running x2 ASUS HD7970's on x-fire and have tried doing it with x-fire disabled and still can't get higher than 80Hz.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> From what I read, I have a feeling the ATI software/drivers has limited the pixel clock rate.
> I was wondering if there's anyone on here that has had luck overclocking their catleap Q270 2B version with a 7970 to at least 100Hz.


You didn't buy the overclockable version. Multi input Yamakasi Catleaps aren't overclockable.


----------



## Dominic

Help guys. I got my cat leap multi and its wicked. Can someone advise me on how to remove the sticker nicely without scratching the frame? Thanks


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dominic*
> 
> Can someone advise me on how to remove the sticker nicely without scratching the frame? Thanks


Lift a corner of the sticker with a blade flat to the surface (i.e. not angled toward the bezel, but slid in between the bezel and the sticker) enough that you can start to pull on the lifted portion. Peel off by pulling steadily outward (away from the bezel), initially with the blade still in place holding the corner.

In the unlikely event that you end up with glue left on the bezel, pat and peel it with a sticky portion of the peeled sticker. If that isn't working and you can't rub the glue off with your finger, then use some orange oil to remove it and wipe off any remaining oil.


----------



## Apocalyp53

Hey guys,

I got my Catleap the other day and after about 5 minutes it started getting horizontal lines. I reseated the DVI's and graphics card and restarted multiple times but after a while the lines come back. It begins at the top but then envelops the whole screen. Is it a bad DVI maybe? Hope it isn't permanent. Thanks guys.

-Apocalypse


----------



## Dispersion

Argh, I've had my Catleap for quite some time now, couple of months I think and recently started getting *severe* headaches and eye strain, it's close to unbearable, after a couple of hours of gaming etc I have to go away for like 10 min and just sit somewhere dark, starting to get really annoying, ugh... Also noticed some slight flickering when opening folders etc, will probably revert back to my LG W2363D 120Hz monitor for now... Until I figure out what's wrong. (Desk chair broke so I'm currently sitting slightly closer to the monitor and I'm hoping that's the problem and not the actual monitor cuz colours etc are just awesome on this thing)

Ah well...

EDIT: Yup, back on the LG now, no eye strain what so ever, same distance, blargh, dunno what I'm gonna do with the Catleap... Might get a bigger table and try placing it further away. Haven't had any problems with it until now (when my chair broke) that I'm sitting closer to the monitors (note: by closer I mean 1-3 inches or so closer)


----------



## michaelcly

I got my new power supply for my Yamakasi q270 multi. Greensum sent it at no charge...they sent it Monday and I got it Thursday. Amazing. As far as I'm concerned they are top notch.

The PS is better built than the one that came with the display. I really like this monitor and supplier.


----------



## froggyluv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crossbred900*
> 
> How do you like the Q271? korexbuy has some for $397.20 and they say "perfect pixel" but not what that means to them, just standard 1 in the middle or more than 5 on the sides. I was initially gravitating towards listings that let you get a square trade warranty, but this one doesn't. I'm not trying to be a pro gamer so unless the lag from multiple inputs is significant I'd probably not notice. I also like that you can wall mount it without having to take it apart.


Just got mine from Korexbuy today for the $397. What can I say - this things looks and works great for such a cheap price. Of course it has the somewhat wobbly stand but sitting on a huge oak desk coupled with the fact that I barely ever need to touch the controls its not really an issue for me. Not even going to try the speakers as I already have a great set + headphones for gaming.

It almost feels like stealing to get such an upgrade (samsung 22") for so little


----------



## BoredErica

@ Guy with eye strain
Maybe it's the brightness? Just throwing ideas out there. :/


----------



## Purus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Apocalyp53*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I got my Catleap the other day and after about 5 minutes it started getting horizontal lines. I reseated the DVI's and graphics card and restarted multiple times but after a while the lines come back. It begins at the top but then envelops the whole screen. Is it a bad DVI maybe? Hope it isn't permanent. Thanks guys.
> 
> -Apocalypse


Same thing happened to the korean monitor I ordered (Imon Tuojiango).

The included power brick then died, so now I can't troubleshoot further.

Let me know how your seller responds? For some reason dreamseller stopped replying after I asked for a new power brick (dreamseller told me to take a video of the problem).


----------



## TangoDown332

Hello, I was wondering if there was anyway to get a new power adapter for the monitor commercially?, I'd like to have spares, as my brick blew up on me lol. YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE is the model.


----------



## lfc44

Are there any Korean sites known on this site to ship these internationally that aren't eBay sellers ?


----------



## Astire

I bought Yamakasi 2703 display from greensum in late summer. It was ok for a while but then the left side of the display started to be dimmer than the right side. Because I live in Finland I thought that warranty was not an option. It would cost too much to send the unit back to Korea. Not to mention that I had disposed the cardboard-box of the display that greensum wanted to have if returned...
Now, after too many months of seeing the dark side of the screen, I decided to open up the display to see what is wrong.


*How to open:*
Place the display face down to a table. Remove the screws from the backside. Turn the unit display up and take the bezel off by turning a flat screw driver between the bezel and backside plastic.


The LCD panel is attached to the backcover with some screws on both sides. Take the screws off and turn the unit panel down again. Be careful, the panel is not attached to the plastic anymore. Rise the backplastic carefully to view the cables inside.


Take off some of the aluminium-tape covering the shortest display cable. Unplug the cable from the panel side.

You may also unplug other cables, such as keys-cable, led-backlight-cable and LCD-panel power cable. Now the backplastic is no longer connected to the panel and you can separete them.

The one and only PCB is under the flimsy metal cover in the backcover. Remove some screws and lift the metal cover. Now you can see the PCB.

The PCB looks OK. No darkness around the transistors as in some of the Crossover displays with backlight problems.

Remove the four screws to remove the PCB. On the backside of the PCB you can see something strange.

AT first I of course thought that this has something to do with the backlight problem. The jumper cable was connected to the pins for the cable of the fully functional side of the LED-backlight. As it turns out this has nothing to do with the backlight problem. Most likely the PCB had a bug when it was ordered and they fixed it with this jumper cable.

I set the display so that I could use it so see what affects the backlight. As you can see from the video below, the white led-backlight power cable was the cause of the problems. _(It´s safe to do this as the voltage of the led-backlight is only about 30V or more, opposed to CCFL backlights with many thousands of volts. Also the voltage coming to the PCB is only 24V._





I removed the white backlight power cable and removed the black tape covering the connector. I saw a poor adapter that was glued to the cable. The adapter is used to change the female connector to male, so that it can be connected to the panel side of the backlight cable which is also female. The connection between the cable connector and the adapter is very loose and poor.

In the picture I have removed the adapter.

I made a drastic decision and removed both of the plastic parts of the connector and the adapter (seen in the picture above).
I soldered the connector spikes directly to each of the display cable lines.


I put some tape around the metal parts of each cable to provide insulation as each cable is almost touching the closest ones. Only the spike was left exposed . Then I put each of the cables in to the panel side of the led-backlight cable connector.


Now the backlight is fixed.


----------



## Apocalyp53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Purus*
> 
> Same thing happened to the korean monitor I ordered (Imon Tuojiango).
> 
> The included power brick then died, so now I can't troubleshoot further.
> 
> Let me know how your seller responds? For some reason dreamseller stopped replying after I asked for a new power brick (dreamseller told me to take a video of the problem).


I ordered from KorexBuy and he told me to send it back to their "US location". Either they will fix it or refund my money. It's unfortunate that this had to happen because the monitor is beautiful for the first 2 or 3 minutes after it's turned on, then you can't even read anything. Also, I bought a high quality dual link DVI and that didn't help. I wonder what's causing this? I would take it apart to fix it but don't want to risk losing my refund. I'll be mailing it out on Monday and will keep you updated.


----------



## Apocalyp53

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lfc44*
> 
> Are there any Korean sites known on this site to ship these internationally that aren't eBay sellers ?


For a catleap? Not that I've seen.


----------



## BostonHXC

Hey guys. Just got my Catleap Q270 on a trade. I bought a new Ergotron mount for it since the stand it comes with is so lousy. However I have searched high and low and cannot locate the stand removal guide that everyone is referencing here. Can someone point me in the right direction please?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BostonHXC*
> 
> Hey guys. Just got my Catleap Q270 on a trade. I bought a new Ergotron mount for it since the stand it comes with is so lousy. However I have searched high and low and cannot locate the stand removal guide that everyone is referencing here. Can someone point me in the right direction please?


There's a guide on the first post of this thread.

Someone should make a video for it too since a lot of people seam to be needing it, and I know I like a video more than a bunch of pictures.


----------



## fancymonitor

Hello, I am new here.








I bought my Yamaskasi Q270 in July 2012. It developed the no boot-up problem. I checked everything mentioned in the start of this thread. No luck, I'm reluctant to send it back to South Korea so I opened up the monitor and found what I think is the problem on the mainboard (D-910 REV_1.1) is a blowen semiconductor close to the DVI input socket (circled in yellow). 
Because the semiconductor is damaged I cannot make out the part number - can anyone help me identify the part or suggest an alternative replacement part?
Thanks!


----------



## michaelcly

.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BostonHXC*
> 
> Hey guys. Just got my Catleap Q270 on a trade. I bought a new Ergotron mount for it since the stand it comes with is so lousy. However I have searched high and low and cannot locate the stand removal guide that everyone is referencing here. Can someone point me in the right direction please?


Try page 1. Theres a link in the first post

Edit:
my bad...I see you already got an answer.


----------



## BoredErica

Nice work Astire! Bit risky opening it up like that!


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fancymonitor*
> 
> Hello, I am new here.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I bought my Yamaskasi Q270 in July 2012. It developed the no boot-up problem. I checked everything mentioned in the start of this thread. No luck, I'm reluctant to send it back to South Korea so I opened up the monitor and found what I think is the problem on the mainboard (D-910 REV_1.1) is a blowen semiconductor close to the DVI input socket (circled in yellow).
> Because the semiconductor is damaged I cannot make out the part number - can anyone help me identify the part or suggest an alternative replacement part?
> Thanks!


You must have used the monitor for a long time to have a damaged semiconductor.

And no. I think you need to send that monitor to the seller.


----------



## Adhunt

Hi guys n gals - really appreciate some input on this question:

I had two Q270SE monitors, but one developed a static/picture degration issue. The seller has arranged for it to be sent back at no cost to me, but now they are out of stock of that model with no ETA on new ones yet. They have offered me for a small extra fee either the Q270Multi or the Q271 if I don't want to wait. Oddly, the Q270 Multi will be slightly more than the newer Q271.

I will be using DVI-Dual Link so the HDMI etc is irrelevant to me. Speakers are also irrelevant.

I'm leaning towards the Q270 Multi so that it matches the existing one (the Q271 is a different stand) - but are there any other things i should take into account?

Thanks


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> Hi guys n gals - really appreciate some input on this question:
> 
> I had two Q270SE monitors, but one developed a static/picture degration issue. The seller has arranged for it to be sent back at no cost to me, but now they are out of stock of that model with no ETA on new ones yet. They have offered me for a small extra fee either the Q270Multi or the Q271 if I don't want to wait. Oddly, the Q270 Multi will be slightly more than the newer Q271.
> 
> I will be using DVI-Dual Link so the HDMI etc is irrelevant to me. Speakers are also irrelevant.
> 
> I'm leaning towards the Q270 Multi so that it matches the existing one (the Q271 is a different stand) - but are there any other things i should take into account?
> 
> Thanks


I don't know as much about miulti models and multi-monitor setups, but as far as I can tell, not really.
If somebody disagrees, do enlighten me.


----------



## Adhunt

Thanks - anyone else?


----------



## carajean

Im curious as to why people are still buying these compared to the new Dell 27" IPS screen for $300? Is it because of the 1440p resolution?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carajean*
> 
> Im curious as to why people are still buying these compared to the new Dell 27" IPS screen for $300? Is it because of the 1440p resolution?


Pretty much.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> Thanks - anyone else?


Apart from more inputs the only thing is added input lag since the Multi's have a scaler.


----------



## cmc850

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Pretty much.


Without a doubt - the equivalent 1440 Dell is still $799 msrp - the 1080 27" IPS they offer is nothing like these. A 1080 monitor has just over 2 million pixels - these have just under 3.7 million. For photo editing or running multiple applications that is a big difference.


----------



## michaelcly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> Thanks - anyone else?


I have a Multi. The multi has a bit of input lag. I notice it on mine and others say it is in fact that way-even not using the other inputs. My 27" imac at work does not have it and the SE does not have it (as reported by others). It does not bother me.

When I removed the stand, I noticed differences between mine and the one on the first post inside. Fortunately, you can remove the stand and arch without having to totally remove the LCD. I only had to disconnect the OSD connector. This connector is fragile. See my post on page 931.

I don't know anything about the Q271


----------



## michaelcly

Hey Hamy144, you're making me dizzy!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *carajean*
> 
> Im curious as to why people are still buying these compared to the new Dell 27" IPS screen for $300? Is it because of the 1440p resolution?


That is err... a huge difference.


----------



## Adhunt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelcly*
> 
> I have a Multi. The multi has a bit of input lag. I notice it on mine and others say it is in fact that way-even not using the other inputs. My 27" imac at work does not have it and the SE does not have it (as reported by others). It does not bother me.


Thanks - so an SE and a multi would work ok in a two monitor setup? I would use the SE as my gaming one and the other one for tv etc?


----------



## BoredErica

SE is just no speakers. Don't see how that'd affect anything.


----------



## michaelcly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Adhunt*
> 
> Thanks - so an SE and a multi would work ok in a two monitor setup? I would use the SE as my gaming one and the other one for tv etc?


I don't see why not. I wonder about the stands though. I read a post in here (can't find it now) that someone did something similar and the stand heights were different.

edit: just reread your first post - I see you already considered the stand height. Makes me wonder if the new stand is shorter so it's a little more stable. If I had a real stable desk, I would have left my stand on. I like the looks of it.


----------



## ackack47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackack47*
> 
> Only thing Dream-Seller has offered me so far was shipping it back to them for repairs. If I can't fix it or get replacement boards I may have to do that through USPS. Went to UPS today and every option was over 500$ to ship it there. They said it will be $100 something through USPS to ship it there, but I don't know about the return shipping. I'll open it up and look around. How much do these parts cost do you think? Thanks for the help.
> 
> Edit: Just took it apart and checked out every PCB. Nothing looks flawed. Looks like I may have to ship it to South Korea


Is it normal for the PSU to make a screeching sound? If I put it near my head I can hear it clearly. I took a video and the sound is pretty faint, but you can clearly hear it if your speakers are turned up.






Does anyone else's make this sound or any sound at all?

My monitor broke a couple months ago and I really don't want to pay the 200$ round trip in shipping.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackack47*
> 
> Is it normal for the PSU to make a screeching sound? If I put it near my head I can hear it clearly. I took a video and the sound is pretty faint, but you can clearly hear it if your speakers are turned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone else's make this sound or any sound at all?
> 
> My monitor broke a couple months ago and I really don't want to pay the 200$ round trip in shipping.


"Normal" I don't know. Does mine do that? Yes, but quits after a while. If my monitor is on for more than say, 5 minutes it will do that once I turn it off. I've even had it do it in intervals timed perfectly with the blinking blue standby light. Now really, how much power could that little blue led draw that would make the screeching noise appear but only when the led was lit? It's odd and I worried at first but my monitor is still kicking.


----------



## ackack47

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackack47*
> 
> Is it normal for the PSU to make a screeching sound? If I put it near my head I can hear it clearly. I took a video and the sound is pretty faint, but you can clearly hear it if your speakers are turned up.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone else's make this sound or any sound at all?
> 
> My monitor broke a couple months ago and I really don't want to pay the 200$ round trip in shipping.


Anyone in the Virginia Beach area? I'd like to try someone else's power supply before I spend all this money shipping my monitor back to Korea. The problem is, after the monitor has been on for a very short while, like 30 seconds to 2 minutes, it will "fade to black/blank" then come back, over and over. It seems to depend on whats on the screen for how often it does it and how dark it gets.










Here are a couple links, maybe someone knows what is wrong?


----------



## id_mew

Is there a fix for the white being so bright and bleeding? When I'm playing anything that's white is really bright and looses lott's of detail.
Thanks for any help.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Use the buttons on the display to turn the brightness down and the back-light bleeding may disappear or be severely reduced at lower brightness levels.


----------



## id_mew

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Use the buttons on the display to turn the brightness down and the back-light bleeding may disappear or be severely reduced at lower brightness levels.


Thanks for your input, but lowering the brightness doesn't help much. That's how my white looks likes, just bright white:

is that normal?


----------



## michaelcly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ackack47*
> 
> Anyone in the Virginia Beach area? I'd like to try someone else's power supply before I spend all this money shipping my monitor back to Korea. The problem is, after the monitor has been on for a very short while, like 30 seconds to 2 minutes, it will "fade to black/blank" then come back, over and over. It seems to depend on whats on the screen for how often it does it and how dark it gets.


Mine did this and through some research I learned that if it fades to black, it's likely a power issue-not enough power to keep the pixels energized (paraphrased). This could mean a weak power supply or a bad connection somewhere. I had a bad connection on my q270 multi that caused it. It was the cable that the osd switches connect to. I had taken it apart to put on a VESA mount. For some, it's the power supply. If it goes to white, it's more than likely a bad board.

Search "fade to black." many have had this issue. Greensum sent me a new power supply. Turned out I didn't really need it-but it is better than the original. The original made an odd noise when on stand by.


----------



## judi924

I just installed my Catleap on an aftermarket stand. I followed the instructions given in the first post except for the last part where you unscrew the black screws to take the stand bracket out. I just unfastened the bolts connecting the stand to the bracket and pulled the stand out. The task was pretty frustrating and I recommend a second set of hands especially when reinstalling the cords connected to the back side of the housing. The plastic housing on the monitor is very cheap. I broke off maybe 4-5 plastic clamps when using a flat screwdriver to pry apart the housing. This was taking my time and I don't consider myself novice in taking apart electronics, it was similar to disassembling an Xbox for repair.
I'm using the Mount-It! Articulating Dual Arm Computer Monitor Desk Mount purchased from Amazon for 58.99. I was lucky enough to get it from the supplier Value Max for $10 cheaper than what it is currently listed as here: http://amzn.com/B0052AWGLE
I have the Catleap on the right and an Asus VE278Q mounted vertically on the left (which was WAY easier removing the stand). The Asus was pretty heavy and I was worried it would be too heavy but it is listed on Amazon as 22lbs and the Mount-It! Stand has a max capacity of 22lbs per monitor. The Catleap feels considerably lighter than the Asus, probably due to the Asus having the PS inside the monitor housing.


http://imgur.com/7BLMT




http://imgur.com/BT7D0




http://imgur.com/sCHef


Sorry the pics aren't that great. Where I have the monitors installed there's no way to get behind them and snap pics so I had to lean around & over my setup to get some pictures. I didn't take pictures during the instillation process either.


----------



## muscleking

can we make a vote like "is your cat still alive?" or "is your cat dead?"

then people knows the monitor's service record.

my one i sold to a friend is now 6 months old and still works. but never use continuous for 4 hours.

the panel itself should be reliable but the power brick may cause some thing to go wrong. because these koreans use the cheapest parts to build the monitor.

1. cheap plastic exterior, ok. no damage done
2. but cheap power supply? like you put a crap psu in a computer could catch fire.

i am not 100% sure these are monitor power is crap but they do get pretty darn hot after a while.

yeah white ones looks much better. i want to get a white one to match my white case and get a ibm model m keyboard which is also white. but may ruin the modern look of the set up.

the white ones cost way more than black ones so not really worth it.

why nobody buy the $500, 30 inch catleap? that 600 cheaper than dell compared to catleap is only 300 cheaper than dell.


----------



## muscleking

oh are we having a catleap give away draw when this thread hit 1000 pages?

who here thinks that catleap monitors has a direct pricing and sales impact on other monitors?


----------



## BoredErica

We had a poll that nobody bothers to vote in anymore.
Power brick - get the lower power one, be a smart consumer. It runs cooler. Don't stuff it under something beneath the carpet.


----------



## BoredErica

I just tried out Milkdrop (vizualization plugin) for Winamp, turned it to max quality. I almost died. It's retina seering.







Talk about color!!!


----------



## NightmareGSX

I have 3 of the black Q270 w/ speakers. 1 I have had for approaching a year now. I use it average of 4-6 hours a day. No issues with anything, power bricks included. I got the second two(same one, speakers and only dvi) about a month ago. 95% of ther usage is games. If you can provide the $ and desk space, 3 of these in NV surround is breathtakingly good!


----------



## BoredErica

When I got the monitor for $300, I saw the price of teh Apple Thunderbolt display - basically $1k. I could get 3 of these before I can get one of those. Good luck having all THREE die out on ya'!


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightmareGSX*
> 
> I have 3 of the black Q270 w/ speakers. 1 I have had for approaching a year now. I use it average of 4-6 hours a day. No issues with anything, power bricks included. I got the second two(same one, speakers and only dvi) about a month ago. 95% of ther usage is games. If you can provide the $ and desk space, 3 of these in NV surround is breathtakingly good!


I'm waiting for the money for a third, I use mine all day everyday for about 7 months and no problems at all powerbricks are fine as well.
Touch wood they continue like this


----------



## NightmareGSX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> When I got the monitor for $300, I saw the price of teh Apple Thunderbolt display - basically $1k. I could get 3 of these before I can get one of those. Good luck having all THREE die out on ya'!


Yea my boss bought 2 of those new dell 27 inch 1440p displays with USB 3.0 ports. He doesn't use the hub either, I tried to talk him into the cat leaps or cross overs, but I guess he didnt want to save the money. This is 2 grand versus 700 +\_-. I got all three of mine for about 1100 as I got the first one used off CL in my area. ( well, kinda, guy bought it to use on a laptop, so it wasn't used, just opened and sad faced!!)


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightmareGSX*
> 
> Yea my boss bought 2 of those new dell 27 inch 1440p displays with USB 3.0 ports. He doesn't use the hub either, I tried to talk him into the cat leaps or cross overs, but I guess he didnt want to save the money. This is 2 grand versus 700 +\_-. I got all three of mine for about 1100 as I got the first one used off CL in my area. ( well, kinda, guy bought it to use on a laptop, so it wasn't used, just opened and sad faced!!)


So sad. Sooooo much money waste, it's ridiculous.







Coulda fed so many hungry children.


----------



## myrtleee34

i am ready to order an IPS monitor.
Where did you order your catleap from?
a link would helpful too.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightmareGSX*
> 
> Yea my boss bought 2 of those new dell 27 inch 1440p displays with USB 3.0 ports. He doesn't use the hub either, I tried to talk him into the cat leaps or cross overs, but I guess he didnt want to save the money. This is 2 grand versus 700 +\_-. I got all three of mine for about 1100 as I got the first one used off CL in my area. ( well, kinda, guy bought it to use on a laptop, so it wasn't used, just opened and sad faced!!)


The 1k dell monitors offer significantly more features... So it's not like theres no point to them. I would not ever recommend Catleaps to non-enthusiasts or people who can't do computer troubleshooting. I don't want the trouble of making sure it runs perfect. And that is often the difference. The dells work...and if they don't Dell fixes it right away. These Korean monitors.... Not so much.

That being said, if he doesn't use the extended color gamut of the dell u3713h, he definitely wasted his money.... At least $500.


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrtleee34*
> 
> i am ready to order an IPS monitor.
> Where did you order your catleap from?
> a link would helpful too.


http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-Lite-27-WQHD-LED-HD-DVI-2560-x-1440-Computer-Monitor-/330718939374?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4d006288ee

cheapest on ebay right now. jan 2013.


----------



## michaelcly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *myrtleee34*
> 
> i am ready to order an IPS monitor.
> Where did you order your catleap from?
> a link would helpful too.


For my money, I like these guys: (Greensum)
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Monitors-Projectors-Accs-/162497/i.html?item=110918354928&pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d33fc7f0&_ssn=green-sum


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *michaelcly*
> 
> For my money, I like these guys: (Greensum)
> http://www.ebay.com/sch/Monitors-Projectors-Accs-/162497/i.html?item=110918354928&pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19d33fc7f0&_ssn=green-sum


i got mine at this guy. but now green sum doesn't have good price. cheapest 27inch is 344 bucks. we are all budget people so $30 is a lot. especially that one is tempered glass which people hate.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> i got mine at this guy. but now green sum doesn't have good price. cheapest 27inch is 344 bucks. we are all budget people so $30 is a lot. especially that one is tempered glass which people hate.


I love my tempered glass catleap


----------



## BoredErica

I would recommend a non-techie to buy a Catleap. If they learn something in the process, that's good for them.


----------



## muscleking

hey you guys

anybody can tell me if this IRUN stand is better than catleap?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/27-Inch-irun-ZT-SH270QHD-2560x1440-WQHD-Quad-HD-Monitor-S-IPS-/150965435548?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item23263dbc9c

322 bucks comes with built in speaker. that's not bad.

are these built in speaker very good?


----------



## Niko-Time

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> hey you guys
> 
> anybody can tell me if this IRUN stand is better than catleap?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/27-Inch-irun-ZT-SH270QHD-2560x1440-WQHD-Quad-HD-Monitor-S-IPS-/150965435548?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item23263dbc9c
> 
> 322 bucks comes with built in speaker. that's not bad.
> 
> are these built in speaker very good?


The speakers are diabolically bad

EDIT: But that is of course the same on all of these Korean monitors


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NightmareGSX*
> 
> I have 3 of the black Q270 w/ speakers. 1 I have had for approaching a year now. I use it average of 4-6 hours a day. No issues with anything, power bricks included. I got the second two(same one, speakers and only dvi) about a month ago. 95% of ther usage is games. If you can provide the $ and desk space, 3 of these in NV surround is breathtakingly good!


i look at my dell u3011, 12 hours per day on saturday and sunday every week.....


----------



## claudioita

I bought on ebay in June 2012 (from green-sum) a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 MULTI 27" LED 2560X1440 S-IPS Monitor model.

Everything fine until few days ago.

Now half monitor is darker, like if the backlit have some problem (not even in all part of the monitor).

What to do now?


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *claudioita*
> 
> I bought on ebay in June 2012 (from green-sum) a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 MULTI 27" LED 2560X1440 S-IPS Monitor model.
> 
> Everything fine until few days ago.
> 
> Now half monitor is darker, like if the backlit have some problem (not even in all part of the monitor).
> 
> What to do now?


I think someone else had this problem and he opened it up and there was some kind of connector that he remade and fixed his problem.
Don't hold me to anything, but before you go voiding your warranty check what the seller will do. He MUST replace it and you won't have to pay shipping back to Korea because he MUST cover that.


----------



## cmc850

I'm not sure of your problem, but wanted to let everyone know I was suspicious the power brick I got with my Q271 was causing some odd behavior with blanking and power surging - good news is green-sum promptly replaced it with one that seems to have solved the problem. I can assure everyone green-sum is a reputable place to do business.

FYI, original adapter was marked "Loadus input voltage 190-220Vac" the new one is a "Welltronics" indicating support down to 110VAC. The Loadus adapter worked on US line voltage, just oddly.


----------



## michaelcly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cmc850*
> 
> I'm not sure of your problem, but wanted to let everyone know I was suspicious the power brick I got with my Q271 was causing some odd behavior with blanking and power surging - good news is green-sum promptly replaced it with one that seems to have solved the problem. I can assure everyone green-sum is a reputable place to do business.
> 
> FYI, original adapter was marked "Loadus input voltage 190-220Vac" the new one is a "Welltronics" indicating support down to 110VAC. The Loadus adapter worked on US line voltage, just oddly.


Same here. Greensum sent me a new one and it is better.

here's one on ebay cheap:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-Adapter-For-Yamakasi-Q270-or-Korean-27-IPS-Monitor-DC-Power-Supply-/221176416822?pt=US_Power_Supplies&hash=item337f244a36
Might be a good back up for someone


----------



## hamzatm

Guys is there a reliable way to get an overclockable one atm? I have been trying to read through the info but stuff changes over time and I honestly don't know what the current situation is with getting an OC-able model. I know you can't guarantee anything even with the OC'able ones I just want to try my luck with something at least slightly overclockable.


----------



## BoredErica

Get Overlord Tempest.


----------



## CallAMedic4U

Please dont bombard me with ridicule but what exactly makes these monitors worth the money. This is a real question not a snide comment. I just dont know enough about display tech to know why they are the 'cream of the crop'.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallAMedic4U*
> 
> Please dont bombard me with ridicule but what exactly makes these monitors worth the money. This is a real question not a snide comment. I just dont know enough about display tech to know why they are the 'cream of the crop'.


You cannot find brand name (HP, Dell, LG, Asus) monitors at this resolution for these prices. Plus, the no anti-glare coating is a big selling point, or at least it was for me. You take a risk with the monitors being foreign, but sometimes with risk there is reward.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CallAMedic4U*
> 
> Please dont bombard me with ridicule but what exactly makes these monitors worth the money. This is a real question not a snide comment. I just dont know enough about display tech to know why they are the 'cream of the crop'.


Not gonna do that... you're only (possibly) gonna get ridicule if you claim your random netbook monitor to be superior.









This monitor is
A) 2560 x 1400 That's 2560 pixels horizontally measured and 1440 vertically, or some call it 1440p. There is a common misconception that 1080p is the highest it goes for monitors; for TVs, yes, because you sit far away from it so it's not required. At 27 inch monitors, it is possible to find 1080p monitors, and these are magitudes inferior to this one, all other things being equal.

B) 27 inches I think 30 inches is too big. 21 inches is more suitable for you if you are a professional gamer; fi you were, you wouldn't need to ask anybody any questions.









C) IPS monitor IPS monitor as opposed to TN monitors have superior accuracy in color. It's also generally more expensive. Most monitors you see are still TN. (People ask others with Catleaps to "show them a video" of how good the color is. The irony is, how good the video will look is limited by your own monitor. There's no way to convey color quality without you personally seeing the monitor in real life.)

D) It's glossy. It doesn't have a horrible anti-glare coating. Colors are very, very vibrant. (It can get so bright if you set it to max, that I sometimes need sunglasses; but it's not a washed-out white or anything. If you try the Winamp (a music player) plugin named Milkdrop (visualization plugin, makes it show colors and animations, kind of like Windows Media Player but better), the color is so vibrant, I think my retinas are seared by it.)

F) The price. I got mine for $300, but I think it's $400 now. In comparison, this monitor uses the same panel as the almost $1000 Apple Thunderbolt. (Technically it uses rejected Apple panels, but the color is still 100% unless you got a faulty one.)

This monitor will not be perfect for professional image editors, but for anybody else, the color will rival the $700, $800, $900 monitors.

G) Input Lag The lack of extra bells and whistles allows it to repond a smidge faster to your inputs using your keyboard/mouse. Most do not notice this. This monitor has decent response time for similar reasons, meaning you will less likely see ghosting (blurriness) when objects move quickly.

I have a lengthy review with a video and multiple pictures in my signiture below, click the Yamakasi Catleap Icon in my signiture.

Hope I helped.


----------



## DeltaD

What's the purposes of tempered glass? I read some ppl like them and hate them at the same time. Is it thicker and dilute image quality?
I see green sum sells a lot of different type of Yamasaki Monitor from $350-$550, but I can't find the difference between them other than speakers and tempered glass...


----------



## kevinsbane

Bit more reflective. Looks neat. Easier to clean, but possible dust under glass.


----------



## BoredErica

I don't have the dust issue. I suppose I can just get Windex for my tempered glass.


----------



## hamzatm

I presume because you get a full cover glass covering that goes over the front bezel and screen IIRC?

It looks amazing is the main reason. Reports of dust but not everyone gets that.


----------



## BoredErica

My monitor which I ordered from Greensum was tempered glass, but it doesn't cover the bezel. I wonder if I got the wrong model.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> My monitor which I ordered from Greensum was tempered glass, but it doesn't cover the bezel. I wonder if I got the wrong model.


Quick test, can you punch it and it still work?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> Quick test, can you punch it and it still work?


No thanks.


----------



## hamzatm

I'm not sure about covered bezel thing, probably mistaken about that.

Well it's supposed to look good anyway


----------



## NoGuru

I am interested in getting one of these monitors.
Anyone know if this one is good YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q271 RETINA LED FullHD 27" S-IPS 2560X1440 HDMI PIP Monitor?
Or what model I should look for?


----------



## BoredErica

Multi if you need HDMI. Otherwise get normal. SE is without speakers, they suck anyways so get SE. Retina means absolutely nothing.

Tempered glass is mostly aesthetics.


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Multi if you need HDMI. Otherwise get normal. SE is without speakers, they suck anyways so get SE. Retina means absolutely nothing.
> 
> Tempered glass is mostly aesthetics.


That will work, thanks.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeltaD*
> 
> What's the purposes of tempered glass? I read some ppl like them and hate them at the same time. Is it thicker and dilute image quality?
> I see green sum sells a lot of different type of Yamasaki Monitor from $350-$550, but I can't find the difference between them other than speakers and tempered glass...


The main reason they come in tempered glass, is the majority of these monitors are used in Korean bangs (internet gaming cafes) and that way the actual screen is protected from dumb users and such.


----------



## CapnCrunch10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Guys is there a reliable way to get an overclockable one atm? I have been trying to read through the info but stuff changes over time and I honestly don't know what the current situation is with getting an OC-able model. I know you can't guarantee anything even with the OC'able ones I just want to try my luck with something at least slightly overclockable.


Overlord Computer and 120hz.net sells OC monitors currently (whenever they are in stock). Remember, they will be considerably more expensive than the eBay ones (especially the latter).


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CapnCrunch10*
> 
> Overlord Computer and 120hz.net sells OC monitors currently (whenever they are in stock). Remember, they will be considerably more expensive than the eBay ones (especially the latter).


Thanks for the info

Kinda gave up after seeing the price difference between the overclockable ones compared to standard. Bit too much to stomach at the moment


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> I'm not sure about covered bezel thing, probably mistaken about that.
> 
> Well it's supposed to look good anyway


My tempered glass covers the bezel. But it seems later models no longer do.


----------



## DeltaD

I see another seller selling a 30" version from e same brand, is this using the same panel? It has higher pixel count and about the same price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-30-Inch-Yamakasi-300-Sparta-2560x1600-S-IPS-Monitor-/150912875868?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item23231bbd5c


----------



## Johnworfin

I just bought one of these (30" Yamakasi Sparta) last night-I am wondering if anyone has any feedback about them?

thx,

JW


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DeltaD*
> 
> I see another seller selling a 30" version from e same brand, is this using the same panel? It has higher pixel count and about the same price.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-30-Inch-Yamakasi-300-Sparta-2560x1600-S-IPS-Monitor-/150912875868?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item23231bbd5c


That's $525, Catleaps are like $360-370. That's not the same price. 30 inches is really too big for my needs. Professional gamers can enjoy 21, others 27, but 30 inches? If it's 30 inches it should have higher pixel count to keep up with image quality/ I guess if you're trying to watch movies or play games Xbox style...


----------



## DeltaD

I play Starcraft on a dell 2209wa, this panel will be for photoshop and work flow. I also watch a lot of Hulu. Was hoping to mount the 2209 in portrait to line up with this 30"

I just want to know if this is on par in regard to IQ with the 27"


----------



## BoredErica

If you dig the extra size, then it looks good. Its specifications look ok, seems like a normal Catleap but larger.


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnworfin*
> 
> I just bought one of these (30" Yamakasi Sparta) last night-I am wondering if anyone has any feedback about them?
> 
> thx,
> 
> JW


same as dell u3011.

but the price of:

the sparta vs u3011, 520 no tax, 1400 after tax

VS

catleap vs u2711, 320 no tax, 660 after tax

is a better deal for the sparta. but it sells a lot less copy because:

1. not glossy
2. people don't have room
3. started with the above 2 reasons and thus no extensive testing done for reliability so even less people buying.
4. in the end, cost more than catleap.
5. not 16 to 9.
6. catleap is LED use less power than the sparta LCD.

nobody even talk about the sparta's stand is woblly like the catleap or not. mostly likely is or worse because it's bloody much heavier than catleap.

but then 30in definitely better. that's why i got rid of the catleap (no losing money) and keep the 30 inch.

good. let us know how that 30 inch works out for you and then report back after a year.


----------



## BoredErica

I dunno. If I set resolution to max on a 30 inch, I'm going to have a heck of a time trying to read text at the corners of the screen. Even with the 27 inch.







For gaming, prolly not as big of a problem, but normal usage...


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I dunno. If I set resolution to max on a 30 inch, I'm going to have a heck of a time trying to read text at the corners of the screen. Even with the 27 inch.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For gaming, prolly not as big of a problem, but normal usage...


no it's fine. i think it's the same text size as my office's crappy dell 19 inch at 1280x1024.

but i know a 50 year old guy said don't like high resolution text too small. so if your eye has no problem then you'll love it.

if you like iphone 4s then you'll like 30 inch monitors.


----------



## 111ch1

Could someone possibly pm me green-sums email address please?

Other than BCC and Green-sum is there a more reputable seller that also covers return shipping for DOA? Also has this policy changed for them?


----------



## wolfmaster19

hello all,

been catching up to all this korean panel madness all day long and wanted to ask 2 things..

first, is there any news regarding the production of 2B PCB's ?

second, if i pulled the trigger on a q270 SE would i be able to upgrade it with the 2B PCB to make it OC??

i know i'm reaching a bit here but, hope's the last to die..

cheers


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfmaster19*
> 
> hello all,
> 
> been catching up to all this korean panel madness all day long and wanted to ask 2 things..
> 
> first, is there any news regarding the production of 2B PCB's ?
> 
> second, if i pulled the trigger on a q270 SE would i be able to upgrade it with the 2B PCB to make it OC??
> 
> i know i'm reaching a bit here but, hope's the last to die..
> 
> cheers


Safe to say that you ought to give up hope. You just might be pleasantly surprised in the future. At the moment, hope's path seems to lead to disappointment.

That being said, if they did redo the boards... well, yeah, it would work.


----------



## wolfmaster19

still getting one


----------



## Zidion

So what is the consensus on using this with PS3/XBox? I want to pick up one for my PC, but would love to be able to use my gaming systems on them when my wife is using the TV.


----------



## arktoga

Hi. After a year of usage, my Yamakasi died on me yesterday. The bottom led is green and flashing.

A few considerations:
- After some tests, the cable seems to be ok (and it's the one i've been using until now anyway).
-I opened the monitor and looked for loosened cables, but i found none (and i gently pushed all of them just to be sure).
-My video card seems to be ok either (works with other monitors).

I don't know how to test the voltage of the power meter. How should i do it? (I have the tester thingy).

I'm probably gonna format the computer later, just to make sure this is not a driver problem (i doubt it).

Have you got any suggestion? I'm kinda (alot) disheartened!


----------



## r0ach

Look at each board for blown/smoldering mosfets.


----------



## DeltaD

mine arrived after 2 days!! Purchased mine from cloth and WOW, only 1 dead pixel! So happy with this I may pick up another one! Maybe try the crossover brand


----------



## Lutsk92

Hello all.

I purchased my Catleap 2B Extreme 9 months ago with HyperMatrix and his friends' help and it ran golden up until now that is; the monitor is now showing blue vertical lines along with a tad blue dimmer screen after I finished switching out motherboards, formatting my SSD and reinstalling Windows 7 with all drivers up to date. INow, i'm not even sure if it's a hardware/software related problem or if the monitor coincidentally went defective after I finished reinstalling my computer.

- I tried replugging the DVI and power cables.

- Since i'm running 2 GTX 670 SLI, I had to try them one by one solo but the problem still remains.

- I switched to my old 21.5" 1920x1080res monitor AND the problem *isn't* showing in that case.

- I used to overclock my monitor to 99MHz or 80MHz without any problems before so I doubt overclocking might be the cause.

What am I missing here..?
Any ideas?


----------



## arktoga

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *r0ach*
> 
> Look at each board for blown/smoldering mosfets.


Thanks, i fixed it.

It was just the cable. For how strange it is, there was a problem with part of the cable. It did work on every other resolution, but wouldnt with 2560x1440.


----------



## Lutsk92

Fixed my problem; had a faulty DVI cable!


----------



## henrygale

Haha, I just realized after 8 months that my Q270 (no speakers/no glass) says "Multi" on the top left area of the bezel.


----------



## Dextar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Johnworfin*
> 
> I just bought one of these (30" Yamakasi Sparta) last night-I am wondering if anyone has any feedback about them?
> 
> thx,
> 
> JW


Did you get this monitor yet? With the price rising on the Catleaps I was thinking about getting this instead as it's only 110 more for the extra space. Pictures/Reviews?


----------



## AndrewPr33tz

Hey guys, I'm new to the forum but have been an avid reader of overclock for years. Just ordered the 2703 edition ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986? ) from bigclothcraft and hopefully everything goes good.

I had a question, not sure if anyone knows the answer to:

1. What is the native refresh rate of this model? Is it 100hz?

I also noticed after I committed to the purchase, that he doesn't offer a 'pixel perfect' guarantee - but hopefully everything turns out o.k

Wish me luck


----------



## BoredErica

60hz


----------



## hamzatm

Unfortunately the native refresh is always 60Hz, although overclockable ones can be pushed higher.


----------



## mobilize1

I just bought and received a catleap last week and unfortunately it's been a horrible experience. Out of the box it worked for the first 30 minutes fine then went black. I remembered reading about the dvi cable being sub-par and it was a little short for my tastes so I bought a new one at frys capable of the high resolution. I plugged it in and it working great for a short while again, about 4-6 hours maybe then kept going black or I'd see mostly white lines across the screen while turning it on. Adjusting the cable by tightening or wiggling worked for a little while until it would just go out every 5 minutes and now does not appear to work at all. I read some posts of people saying they MUST offer free return shipping, I'm afraid they're going to resist paying any return shipping and the quotes I've gotten are in the $400 range, any of you have any success returning? Should I threaten them with an ebay policy and file a claim that the product was represented as working when it clearly does not?

My last ditch effort is to maybe have the DVI dual link female connector on the monitor itself replaced by a technician as this appears to be the problem with my limited knowledge and experience, does this sound like a dumb idea? I'd hate to piss more money away but I can't be too upset either, I knew there were risks with the purchase.


----------



## naididae

Can you make a video? Cause that sounds very similar to my screen going blank issues I had. I opened the monitor open, tightened the internal cables and ripped off the speakers (for better airflow) and it never happened again. I'd guess it was probably just internal cables being loose.


----------



## mobilize1

There is an internal cable connected to the dvi connector, thin ribbon or something? I firmly believe it's a dvi connection issue, the more I played with the cable in the back it went from getting better to worse and failing more often. I'd be playing a game and boom black screen, turn off, adjust cable, turn on, works for ten minutes and boom black again. The lines only come into play after I've been playing with the connector and turning it on to see if it worked. I also managed tightened down the little thumb screws for the cable connector so much trying to make a constant and stable connection that the stud it screws into broke off on the left side leaving it permanently screwed in without a way to put a new stud in so I can no longer screw the left side of the connector in leaving me in even worse shape.


----------



## michaelcly

I had a similar issue with a Multi and it turned out to be the connection to the button switches on the bottom of the bezel. It's easy enough to check. Disconnect the 10-pin push on connector. If there's no difference you've eliminated that possibility. Mine ran perfectly after that.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mobilize1*
> 
> I just bought and received a catleap last week and unfortunately it's been a horrible experience. Out of the box it worked for the first 30 minutes fine then went black. I remembered reading about the dvi cable being sub-par and it was a little short for my tastes so I bought a new one at frys capable of the high resolution. I plugged it in and it working great for a short while again, about 4-6 hours maybe then kept going black or I'd see mostly white lines across the screen while turning it on. Adjusting the cable by tightening or wiggling worked for a little while until it would just go out every 5 minutes and now does not appear to work at all. I read some posts of people saying they MUST offer free return shipping, I'm afraid they're going to resist paying any return shipping and the quotes I've gotten are in the $400 range, any of you have any success returning? Should I threaten them with an ebay policy and file a claim that the product was represented as working when it clearly does not?
> 
> My last ditch effort is to maybe have the DVI dual link female connector on the monitor itself replaced by a technician as this appears to be the problem with my limited knowledge and experience, does this sound like a dumb idea? I'd hate to piss more money away but I can't be too upset either, I knew there were risks with the purchase.


They've sold a defective product that hasn't lasted it warranty, they MUST offer to send you a new one FOC not at your expense.
They fear the paypal case a lot more than an ebay one.

*Provided it is still in warranty and you haven't opened it or anything to void the warranty.


----------



## mobilize1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> They've sold a defective product that hasn't lasted it warranty, they MUST offer to send you a new one FOC not at your expense.
> They fear the paypal case a lot more than an ebay one.
> 
> *Provided it is still in warranty and you haven't opened it or anything to void the warranty.


I have not opened it up, thanks for the advice.


----------



## apav

Hey guys,

I have had my Q270 (non speaker version) since August and I love it. Today I was browsing through google images and I started to hear a light buzzing sound. I put my ear to the vents in the top of the monitor and it's clearly coming from inside of it. I switch tabs to something not google images, and the sound is much less faint, but still there. So I turned the monitor on and off. Off it's silent of course. When the monitor gets turned on, there still is a buzzing noise, but I can only hear it if I put my ear to the vent again. It only becomes audible on google images right now.

I read the first page and various posts about it, and to fix it I have to put glue or electrical tape over it to stop it vibrating, correct? I'm extremely reluctant to open my monitor again because I am not good at that kind of stuff, I scratched up the hold bezel trying to open it up to take off the stand! Would it be harmful to the monitor if I left the sound as it is? Does this sound indicate that the monitor is failing, or will the buzzing sound get worse? I'll only open it up if I have to. Please don't let this be a bad sign.







Thanks!


----------



## Niko-Time

Sound is perfectly natural, happens on my Korean monitor (especially on white, text heavy pages) and even happens on my Samsung 1080p occasionally! I've had mine for ages and it occured from the start so nothing to worry about.


----------



## baamshipless

How do you guys clean you monitors? No matter what I do I get some ugly streaks. I never had this problem with my 180$ Asus monitors.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baamshipless*
> 
> How do you guys clean you monitors? No matter what I do I get some ugly streaks. I never had this problem with my 180$ Asus monitors.


I used a piece of T-Shirt that has been wet, and rung damp. Then a bandanna to buff.


----------



## BoredErica

You don't have that problem because it was prolly matte, I think.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> You don't have that problem because it was prolly matte, I think.


My monitor it not matte.

If you are not referring to me, then disregard, and have a wonderful day.


----------



## hamzatm

He is referring to the guy getting streaks

Welcome to glossy monitors!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> He is referring to the guy getting streaks
> 
> Welcome to glossy monitors!


No, I think he is referring to me. And my monitor is glossy, and I don't have any streaks. It's all in the way you clean it and what you clean it with.


----------



## hamzatm

It's possible, he could be referring to you, but that is unlikely because you have a Korean monitor which are almost all glossy.

He could be referring to the other person's, $180 Asus monitors, which is more likely. The other person didn't have the problem with his old Asus monitors as they are likely to be matt.

Although I do agree that if we look at the exact language used ("dont" is present tense) its more likely he is referring to you, but if we look at the context it is more likely he is referring to the other person.

Pointless language analysis, sorry folks


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demented*
> 
> No, I think he is referring to me. And my monitor is glossy, and I don't have any streaks. It's all in the way you clean it and what you clean it with.


I was referring to the other guy and the ASUS monitor.


----------



## AndrewPr33tz

Has anyone ordered the new 2703 model? Mine should be here by Thursday or Friday and am I wondering if is better, or worse than the q270 and if anyone's had issues with the 2703 yet.


----------



## mobilize1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndrewPr33tz*
> 
> Has anyone ordered the new 2703 model? Mine should be here by Thursday or Friday and am I wondering if is better, or worse than the q270 and if anyone's had issues with the 2703 yet.


The one I'm having issues with is a 2703, got it Friday last week and will hopefully exchange it or send it back to be repaired soon. As long as I don't have to pay shipping (california to south korea is in the $300-500 range) everything should work out, I hope.


----------



## michaelcly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *baamshipless*
> 
> How do you guys clean you monitors? No matter what I do I get some ugly streaks. I never had this problem with my 180$ Asus monitors.


Microfiber cloth and lens spray like you use on glasses. That's what works for me. Also, Autozone has green, lint-free cloths made for car windows. They really work well.


----------



## BoredErica

That version has a slightly better stand. The differences are basically cosmetic.


----------



## davio

I'm looking at purchasing the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC"

Is there any problems I should be aware of that might make me re-think my purchase? I.e.: problems in general such as screen tearing etc.


----------



## BoredErica

I think the main problem is to make sure the Catleap is legit. I've not heard any complaints of screen tearing from 2b owners.


----------



## davio

I'll be buying from 120hz.net


----------



## BoredErica

Are those 2b? I thought they sell Overlord Tempest? That's legit, but supply is limited.


----------



## hamzatm

screen tearing is nothing to do with the screens themselves I think?


----------



## diobrando89

i recently bought a Yamakasi Catleap Q271, could I join the club?


----------



## kevinsbane

Scribby's left the forums due to... friction... issues concerning overclocking this monitor.


----------



## diobrando89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Scribby's left the forums due to... friction... issues concerning overclocking this monitor.


ah ok, btw anyone knows if it (the Q271) can be oclocked higher than 60hz?


----------



## muscleking

about the 2b version
can someone answer the following:

1. can you tell the difference once it's at 110hz+ vs 60hz? is it the same feeling from 60 to 120 on a TN panel (something human can feel)
2. so at the time before people noticed the 2B can overclock, people are buying these at $300 like the rest of the catleap regular ones?


----------



## BoredErica

Guys, if you click ;'search this thread' you would have faster answers.

1. Yes, the difference is reported to be huge, that is why people pay extra money. Like an IPS 1440p, you need to see it to get the idea.
2. Probably, yeah. Price used to be higher than 300 back then though, then fell to 300, then rose to 500, now it's at like 380.

Diobrando: Maybe 65 hz. Nothing big at all whatsoever.


----------



## muscleking

I mean the pricing on the 2b model. now it's more like 700 bucks.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> I mean the pricing on the 2b model. now it's more like 700 bucks.


I know.


----------



## AndrewPr33tz

Just got my 2703 monitor today









So far so good, no dead pixels that I can see. It's making a slight buzzing noise, but not a big deal.

One dumb question ... with the stand it comes with, I can't seem to 'tilt' it ... It feels like I would have to push really hard and I don't want to break the stand. Is there only 1 way the stand goes in properly?


----------



## AndrewPr33tz

Well status update 10 minutes later ...

The 'tilt feature' of the monitor was extremely stiff and the monitor was lopsided and hanging forward. When I tried tilting the monitor backwards, the base mount snapped and broken the connecting piece between the monitor and the base.

I will need to exchange / return this as the monitor base was defective and snapped when trying to use the tilt feature ... oh god here we go







....


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndrewPr33tz*
> 
> Well status update 10 minutes later ...
> 
> The 'tilt feature' of the monitor was extremely stiff and the monitor was lopsided and hanging forward. When I tried tilting the monitor backwards, the base mount snapped and broken the connecting piece between the monitor and the base.
> 
> I will need to exchange / return this as the monitor base was defective and snapped when trying to use the tilt feature ... oh god here we go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ....


Oh god.... That is horrible. And it was a good monitor, too!


----------



## AndrewPr33tz

Ugh I know ... does anyone know if there are any mounts / stands that will work for the 2703 that doesn't need to be wall mounted?


----------



## mobilize1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AndrewPr33tz*
> 
> Ugh I know ... does anyone know if there are any mounts / stands that will work for the 2703 that doesn't need to be wall mounted?


The 3M MS110MB is one stand that SHOULD work and there's one a little cheaper on monoprice I believe, I'm sure you can hit the "search this thread" link and find the answer. My 2703 stand is pretty basic, the monitor just snaps into the base, no screws or adjustment, does not swivel or tilt etc that's why it broke when you forced it. Maybe if you send them pictures of the broken stand they will send you a new one, probably not though but it might be worth a shot if you're on a tight budget.


----------



## MR HOBS

Hey... I wasn't real clear on whether or not we're allowed to post without being members. I don't know that I'm getting a Catleap, so I don't think I should join yet, but I was wondering if I could get some advice. Rather than quoting a big fat post (or group of 'em) here, perhaps I could divert the attention of a few informed individuals to take a look at my question in "Monitors and Displays" and the handful of responses I've I got. Sorry to cut into the thread like this! THANKS!


----------



## AndrewPr33tz

Well ... I bought a make shift mount that clips onto your desk and uses a VESA mount. It looks great, tho the monitor's a little heavy so it leans forward, so I just shoved my tool kit underneath ... monitor looks great and 2560 is raping my gtx680 on bf3


----------



## AndrewPr33tz

Just wanted to check in. Been playing BF3 all day on Ultra. I can't believe how amazing the game looks on this monitor. So much extra detail I hadn't noticed on my old 27", and the HBAO really shines as the monitor is bright and makes you feel as if you're there.


----------



## BoredErica

Too bad my computer wets itself when I crank the resolution up. But day-to-day computer usage, non-gaming, is quite nice. I love watching Milkdrop or my desktop wallpapers.


----------



## dreadfulwater

If anyone is wondering about using a multi to play in lower resolutions I'd like to say that I have been gaming on my Catleap multi at the max res for the last year on every game.. recently I have started streaming and doing local video capture. (or running skyrim heavily modded which chokes at 2560) I had to lower my res to 1080 to get that capture card working properly since i have only one monitor i mirror the desktop. but let me tell you the quality is still amazing. not blurry in the least. Still one of the best purchases I've made in recent years.


----------



## llantant

Just ordered my catleap Q271 from Green sum on Ebay. I cant wait!!

Does anyone know a good place in the uk to buy a quality duel link DVI-D Cable either 2m or 3m?

So many cables out there its hard to choose a decent one when they range from £3 up to £70.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llantant*
> 
> Just ordered my catleap Q271 from Green sum on Ebay. I cant wait!!
> 
> Does anyone know a good place in the uk to buy a quality duel link DVI-D Cable either 2m or 3m?
> 
> So many cables out there its hard to choose a decent one when they range from £3 up to £70.


Does Monoprice work?


----------



## llantant

Mono price good cables are they? Not worth me buying from them tho. 9 dollars for the cable and 35 for shipping lol. Ill have a look on eBay and link a couple in here now.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *llantant*
> 
> Mono price good cables are they? Not worth me buying from them tho. 9 dollars for the cable and 35 for shipping lol. Ill have a look on eBay and link a couple in here now.


Monoprice cables, the thick ones, are the best you can buy. But I see the shipping as a big problem. Sorry.


----------



## llantant

http://www.dabs.com/products/startech-com-6--dvi-d-dual-link-cable-m-m-3ZL6.html?refs=55790000&q=dvi-d&src=16

These ones ok?


----------



## llantant

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/2m-newlink-dvi-cable-dvi-d-dual-link-(male)-to-dvi-d-dual-link-(male)-ideal-for-pc-to-monitor

or this?

You can also hook the Q271 up via Display Port. Would this be a better option or is it the same as dual link dvi?

So many cable option my heads going to explode!!


----------



## Niko-Time

Do you have any problems with your current cable? As if not, don't worry about replacing. If you do, then just go for any - they really don't make a difference. Just go for a reputable seller from eBay who has sold a load of that specific item and it will work.


----------



## llantant

my current one is a single link and i need a duel. ok ill have a look on ebay. thanks.


----------



## Niko-Time

You will receive a dual link cable from Green sum (just read up)! If it doesn't work then you can bother about getting a cable from eBay, but for now relax and watch the tracking information!


----------



## Slimeyjimey

Not sure if i can post ebay links here, but is this the one everyone is getting?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150991418678?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2327ca3536

What best offer does he accept?


----------



## NoGuru

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slimeyjimey*
> 
> Not sure if i can post ebay links here, but is this the one everyone is getting?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150991418678?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2327ca3536
> 
> What best offer does he accept?


It means you Bid on it and if you are the highest bidder you win the item


----------



## Slimeyjimey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoGuru*
> 
> It means you Bid on it and if you are the highest bidder you win the item


it isn't an auction, its BIN only or best offer, but you can only best offer three times


----------



## FHLET

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nathan900*
> 
> Hey guys. has anyone bought the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor from this website ? http://www.creativepeter.com/yamakasi-catleap-27-q270-led-multi-screen-2560x1440-wqhd-monitor-black.html?currency=USD
> 
> i just want to make sure it is safe


Had tried to order an Achieva Shimian QH270-IPSB white at him. Got no confirmation via e-mail but after several days an info that the item is out of stock and suggested me as alternative that new black one with not glass coated hairline bezel for the same price. I agreed but within a week nothing happend, I got no reaction until I had canceled my order including the hint that I will contact Paypal if he doesn't going react. Then he returned my money in no time and claimed that he doesn't received any other mails from me. So maybe, but sadly in the end I had two weeks wasted







. Now I've purchased from an eBay seller...


----------



## muscleking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slimeyjimey*
> 
> Not sure if i can post ebay links here, but is this the one everyone is getting?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Yamakasi-Catleap-Q270-27-LED-2560x1440-WQHD-S-IPS-Widescreen-Monitor-/150991418678?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2327ca3536
> 
> What best offer does he accept?


no man. get this one instead
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-IPSI-27-LED-2560x1440-IPS-Tempered-Glass-Monitor-/221068918740?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3378bbffd4
80 bucks cheap than the catleap brand. same thing just logo printed differently lol.


----------



## Scorpion49

Hey guys, got a quick question. Does anyone know of a place to get catleap parts? Dreamseller wants me to ship the screen back which will cost more than the screen itself did. Here is the issue:


----------



## JayXMonsta

Still have two Q270 I bought in August running strong







just wanted to check in. Gonna buy one more soon to make a Eyefinity setup. I already have the stand.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Hey guys, got a quick question. Does anyone know of a place to get catleap parts? Dreamseller wants me to ship the screen back which will cost more than the screen itself did. Here is the issue:


Havent been on here in forever - but man the Cats are getting cheap. What's with the 330 chokes? Never seen a decent DVI PCB with anything other than the 470s. Take a shot of the production/design date if you can. I would love to the see the exact markings on that crappy DVI PCB.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> Havent been on here in forever - but man the Cats are getting cheap. What's with the 330 chokes? Never seen a decent DVI PCB with anything other than the 470s. Take a shot of the production/design date if you can. I would love to the see the exact markings on that crappy DVI PCB.


I have a few pics, part of the problem is I am the original buyer last year and I sold it in October. The buyer had this result after it sat for a few months, it went poof on the first power up. I'm trying to help him fix it up.


----------



## Slimeyjimey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> no man. get this one instead
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-ACHIEVA-Shimian-QH270-IPSI-27-LED-2560x1440-IPS-Tempered-Glass-Monitor-/221068918740?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item3378bbffd4
> 80 bucks cheap than the catleap brand. same thing just logo printed differently lol.


DOesn't it have a completely different stand, the CatLeap stand is epic.

Also I thought Catleaps were glossy, that Shimian is matte no?


----------



## llantant

Nope can't get it to work.

Everytime I restart it just goes black and won't show anything.


----------



## llantant

Seemed to work perfectly for about 2 hours. I could see the bios etc. now it's decided to stop working again..........


----------



## llantant

Do you think it could be the power brick? I seem to find that if it starts playing up but I turn my computer off and leave it off for 5 mins, i turn it back on and it seems to work. Of course this could be all in my head.

If I was to replace the power brick, would this one be ok?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/24V-5A-AC-power-adapter-JVC-LT-23X576-LCD-TV-NEW-/230617906460?_trksid=p3284.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BIEW%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D21%26pmod%3D221000632033%26ps%3D54

Ill upload a youtube vid to show you whats going on.


----------



## hamzatm

I think you need to open it and sort out any loose connections.

As for power brick, check the amperage and voltage first, I'm not too knowledgeable on it but there are a couple requirements to fulfil


----------



## llantant

I didnt want to just pull things apart aimlessly. Is there a guide on how to do it online? I dont want to spoil my chances of sending it back.

I have kind of narrowed it down. Its whenever the screen trys to refresh and seems to be worse if its been on for 10 mins or more. If I shut it off at the plus for 10 sec then turn it back on it will work until the next screen refresh.

The amp and voltage of the brick above are the same I was wondering if the 4 pin connector was the same. I dont even know if it is to do with that.


----------



## hamzatm

Have a google for guides, I would open it and at least have a check. Sending it back may be difficult, I've heard tales of ridiculous shipping costs


----------



## Scorpion49

So does anyone know where I could get parts for one of these?


----------



## llantant

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hamzatm*
> 
> Have a google for guides, I would open it and at least have a check. Sending it back may be difficult, I've heard tales of ridiculous shipping costs


If its faulty I won't be paying shipping. I can guarantee you that.


----------



## llantant

Whenever the monitor has to refresh, switching resolutions etc... the screen is prone to not kick back in and just stay black. Usually turning it off for a few seconds and back on rectifies this. Would it be possible its to do with the power brick, I would prefer to only open it up as a last resort.


----------



## Delphiwizard

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> So does anyone know where I could get parts for one of these?


I'm wondering too, wanted to get a digitalwave rev 3 main pcb for the defective crossover i still have here, contacted several sellers, nobody seems willing or able to sell me one so good luck.

*edit* oops wrong thread, i'm looking for a crossover pcb, sorry


----------



## twoelles

My Shimian 27 lite arrived today - from Green-sum. Great delivery in 48 hours. But after 30 seconds the display went grainy (moire/artifact effect) with green vertical banding. On boot it displays vertical green lines across the whole width in bunches of about 10 lines. The GPU is Nvidia GTS250 512mb model.
Anybody else had this problem? GPU or faulty screen? Board connectors? I tried reseating the DVI plugs etc with no luck.
I dont have another PC to test it on and hope to resolve this without paying the exorbitant DHL return shipping rates. Any guidance is much appreciated. Attached is a image.
Note: It worked perfectly for about 30 seconds before the problem started. The problem does not occur with my old cheap samsung but thats only 1920x1080 resolution. Messaged Green-sum but no response yet.


----------



## fancymonitor

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Hey guys, got a quick question. Does anyone know of a place to get catleap parts? Dreamseller wants me to ship the screen back which will cost more than the screen itself did. Here is the issue:


I have the same PCB







(D-910 REV_1.1)
Here are pictures of the components that are destroyed on yours, Hope you find a supplier.




I hope someone can identify this semicondutor next to the DVI socket


----------



## MEW2K

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoelles*
> 
> My Shimian 27 lite arrived today - from Green-sum. Great delivery in 48 hours. But after 30 seconds the display went grainy (moire/artifact effect) with green vertical banding. On boot it displays vertical green lines across the whole width in bunches of about 10 lines. The GPU is Nvidia GTS250 512mb model.
> Anybody else had this problem? GPU or faulty screen? Board connectors? I tried reseating the DVI plugs etc with no luck.
> I dont have another PC to test it on and hope to resolve this without paying the exorbitant DHL return shipping rates. Any guidance is much appreciated. Attached is a image.
> Note: It worked perfectly for about 30 seconds before the problem started. The problem does not occur with my old cheap samsung but thats only 1920x1080 resolution. Messaged Green-sum but no response yet.


As far as I know, you need atleast 1gb memory on your graphics card, perhaps someone could verify this?


----------



## twoelles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MEW2K*
> 
> As far as I know, you need atleast 1gb memory on your graphics card, perhaps someone could verify this?


Green-sum accepted the unit was DOA - internal board problem (known issue). Now waiting for a replacement.


----------



## Scorpion49

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twoelles*
> 
> Green-sum accepted the unit was DOA - internal board problem (known issue). Now waiting for a replacement.


Did you ship it back to korea? How did you do it?


----------



## twoelles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Scorpion49*
> 
> Did you ship it back to korea? How did you do it?


Green-sum arranged the shipping via DHL at their cost. Cannot complain. Very efficient and swift. I guess my monitor was a DOA and they were aware of such failures. Now I wait for my replacement.


----------



## DJ_Reason

is it just me or the prices of all 27" korean monitors have increased quite a bit??
like before i saw monitors selling for $260 ~ up but now the cheapest one is $350...??


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DJ_Reason*
> 
> is it just me or the prices of all 27" korean monitors have increased quite a bit??
> like before i saw monitors selling for $260 ~ up but now the cheapest one is $350...??


Prices have gone up, yeah.


----------



## Sniping

Does anyone know if this monitor is cheaper if bought in China? I'm considering getting one while I'm there.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Slimeyjimey*
> 
> DOesn't it have a completely different stand, the CatLeap stand is epic.
> 
> Also I thought Catleaps were glossy, that Shimian is matte no?


Wrong, both are glossy. Only one brand is matte.


----------



## Noupoi

I've just recently decided to try and investigate what seem to be these random artifacts appearing on my Q270. On the desktop, certain images make flickering horizontal lines appear, and in certain games I get blurrly horizontal lines moving up and down the screen. I've noticed this most in Assassins Creed 3 and Guild Wars 2. I can't seem to replicate the issue when I want to, and it seems to occur spontaneously.

So far, I've tried to get a screenshot of the blurrly horizontal lines, but the actual screenshots seem to come out fine. I also get this with my 7970 running at stock speeds, so it doesn't seem to be my graphics card.

Does anyone have any ideas what would cause this? Would it be due to the cable, or some other factor?


----------



## lusal

I've had a Q270 Multi since July of 2012 - roughly 7 months or so. I purchased it through Amazon from AccessoriesWhole. It's been working wonderfully. However, as of yesterday I've been getting an odd problem. The screen has been "blanking", or going black and then back to normal during normal use. I'm using the included DVI-Dual Link cable and power supply and have not tampered with the stand or bezel.

The problem is exactly like what is seen on these two youtube videos:






and also...






This is exactly what I'm dealing with. Has anyone experienced anything similar? Is there anything I can do to fix this issue? I really love the monitor but this problem has made it un-usable. I've contacted the seller, but I'm not expecting anything.

I fear that I've flown too close to the sun on the wings of Yamakasi.


----------



## cryfreedom66

Hey guys! Are the catleaps able to be overclocked? If so what's the max overclock? And could someone also be kind enough to link me to a trusted seller (you can link to ebay outside of the marketplace)....the eBay search results are overwhelming..


----------



## naididae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lusal*
> 
> I've had a Q270 Multi since July of 2012 - roughly 7 months or so. I purchased it through Amazon from AccessoriesWhole. It's been working wonderfully. However, as of yesterday I've been getting an odd problem. The screen has been "blanking", or going black and then back to normal during normal use. I'm using the included DVI-Dual Link cable and power supply and have not tampered with the stand or bezel.
> 
> The problem is exactly like what is seen on these two youtube videos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and also...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is exactly what I'm dealing with. Has anyone experienced anything similar? Is there anything I can do to fix this issue? I really love the monitor but this problem has made it un-usable. I've contacted the seller, but I'm not expecting anything.
> 
> I fear that I've flown too close to the sun on the wings of Yamakasi.


I had the same problem! Opening it and just pressing the internal cables a bit more to make sure they weren't loose fixed it and I also ripped the internal speakers out, cause some people said it could be overheating and the speakers blocked the airpath. It was an iRun though.


----------



## lusal

Thanks for your input. I appreciate it. I was so upset when the issue came up ; I really don't have any recourse as there's no warranty. In retrospect, I did know this could be a potential pitfall prior to buying it.

I'm going to review the OP and take it apart tonight. The speakers (if you can call them that) will be excised and removed. I'll check all the connections and capacitors as well.

I've got nothing to lose at this point.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cryfreedom66*
> 
> Hey guys! Are the catleaps able to be overclocked? If so what's the max overclock? And could someone also be kind enough to link me to a trusted seller (you can link to ebay outside of the marketplace)....the eBay search results are overwhelming..


Search this thread with the search function... Read the first post...

No. Usually only up to 70hz. 2b models are limited and cannot generally be bought anymore. Go for Tempest if you want 120hz. Greensum, bigclothcraft are fine sellers.


----------



## Conza

Hi all, just wanted to put in my two cents on my new Catleap (Q271). It's a multi monitor, and I'm not planning on fiddling with overclocks, whatever Hz its at now is fine enough for me, if you wanted to overclock I don't think it can be done on a multi, but if you're interested in a multi, this is the best (at 27 inches and 16:9).

Not sure I should plug the seller, I'll say that they were fast and double or tripple checked my monitor, its PP and amazingly, has no backlight bleed?!? Was completely braced to have backlight bleed, very chuffed there isn't any. I'm running it right now via a provided DVI-D cable, worked straight away with my GTX 670, no need for drivers or anything like that *checks Windows update* Still none.

Best of all, for me, its multi, so it has the DVI-D plugged in AND an HDMI cable going to the PS3. I did have to mute the monitor though for the PS3, it has speakers in it which I don't use, but once I did that, perfect 1080p on the 16:9... Want to mention that I tried a friend's uber awesome 30 inch 16:10 Dell ($1000-$1200 bucks or something), with a PS3, and it was awesome enough to stetch the 16:9 to 16:10 (I suppose it was 1920 by 1200), and it looked excellent; but I could vaguely tell it was stretched, where as this I 'know' it's not stretched.

Stand IS NOT flimsey, want to stress that because I know that's a concern for people with a rather large monitor, it was mostly pre-built too which was cool, the flat part has a neck and clip and you push it into the neck on the monitor and it clips in securely, barely wobbles.

Has audio out which I haven't bothered testing as I don't intend on using the speakers, I have a mass amount of unboxing pics if anyone wants them? Thought it might be spamming the thread so I'll keep them off for now.

Oh yeah, I initially (stupidly) tried 1440p via DVI-... not D (I?) and it, well failed miserably, sort of got some pink picture for a moment, but it obviously couldn't handle it.

Anyway I paid $416.95 AUD for this monitor, its black, when all the lights are off you can't see the stickers, and more importantly the on/off light (its very dim which is good), you can switch inputs on the fly, have the PS3 and PC running at the same time.

Only weird thing, it has VGA? No idea why that is there. And this might be an HDMI/switcher issue, but when I used an adapter going PC > switcher (DVI-D to DVI-D to DVI female/HDMI male converter), switcher > monitor (HDMI to HDMI to HDMI female to DVI-D male converter) it didn't like it? Anyway, probably a switching issue, now that I have two monitor inputs I don't even need the switcher







.

Just overall an amazingly good experience, not going to publicly plug them I don't think, if I get more than two PMs asking the seller I will because I'm limited to 2 PMs a day, otherwise they aren't hard to find on eBay, I think mine was 8 bucks more for PP which I highly reccomend since its so cheap insurance and its paid off.

Hope this helps people looking for a 27 inch multi


----------



## JayXMonsta

how do debezel the q270? has anyone tried?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> One with and without bezel


wondering what kinda stand that is.. and how you debezeled them.. thanks.


----------



## diobrando89

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conza*
> 
> Hi all, just wanted to put in my two cents on my new Catleap (Q271). It's a multi monitor, and I'm not planning on fiddling with overclocks, whatever Hz its at now is fine enough for me, if you wanted to overclock I don't think it can be done on a multi, but if you're interested in a multi, this is the best (at 27 inches and 16:9).
> 
> Not sure I should plug the seller, I'll say that they were fast and double or tripple checked my monitor, its PP and amazingly, has no backlight bleed?!? Was completely braced to have backlight bleed, very chuffed there isn't any. I'm running it right now via a provided DVI-D cable, worked straight away with my GTX 670, no need for drivers or anything like that *checks Windows update* Still none.
> 
> Best of all, for me, its multi, so it has the DVI-D plugged in AND an HDMI cable going to the PS3. I did have to mute the monitor though for the PS3, it has speakers in it which I don't use, but once I did that, perfect 1080p on the 16:9... Want to mention that I tried a friend's uber awesome 30 inch 16:10 Dell ($1000-$1200 bucks or something), with a PS3, and it was awesome enough to stetch the 16:9 to 16:10 (I suppose it was 1920 by 1200), and it looked excellent; but I could vaguely tell it was stretched, where as this I 'know' it's not stretched.
> 
> Stand IS NOT flimsey, want to stress that because I know that's a concern for people with a rather large monitor, it was mostly pre-built too which was cool, the flat part has a neck and clip and you push it into the neck on the monitor and it clips in securely, barely wobbles.
> 
> Has audio out which I haven't bothered testing as I don't intend on using the speakers, I have a mass amount of unboxing pics if anyone wants them? Thought it might be spamming the thread so I'll keep them off for now.
> 
> Oh yeah, I initially (stupidly) tried 1440p via DVI-... not D (I?) and it, well failed miserably, sort of got some pink picture for a moment, but it obviously couldn't handle it.
> 
> Anyway I paid $416.95 AUD for this monitor, its black, when all the lights are off you can't see the stickers, and more importantly the on/off light (its very dim which is good), you can switch inputs on the fly, have the PS3 and PC running at the same time.
> 
> Only weird thing, it has VGA? No idea why that is there. And this might be an HDMI/switcher issue, but when I used an adapter going PC > switcher (DVI-D to DVI-D to DVI female/HDMI male converter), switcher > monitor (HDMI to HDMI to HDMI female to DVI-D male converter) it didn't like it? Anyway, probably a switching issue, now that I have two monitor inputs I don't even need the switcher
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Just overall an amazingly good experience, not going to publicly plug them I don't think, if I get more than two PMs asking the seller I will because I'm limited to 2 PMs a day, otherwise they aren't hard to find on eBay, I think mine was 8 bucks more for PP which I highly reccomend since its so cheap insurance and its paid off.
> 
> Hope this helps people looking for a 27 inch multi


got mine Q271 back on 04/feb/13 and i can confirm all
btw i can add that i use the speakers with my ps3 and they are not that bad if used @ low/med level


----------



## Roikyou

Found Greensum on ebay has YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 2B Extreme OC. Rolled the dice and picked one up. Hoping for the best....


----------



## JayXMonsta

Going through the RMA process for the Monoprice Displayport to DVI-D Dual Link Adpater I have that keeps overheating and getting all blurry and makes the screen covered in noise








Will be sad to not have one of my catleaps for a week but it was getting bad plus I didn't want them to tell me I waited to long to RMA it.
Just posted this in here to tell everyone that Monoprice is the way to go though they gave me the label and everything for it within 12 hours!


----------



## technoir

Hi all,

I was wondering if anyone can help me out with an issue that's developed on my Catleap 2B. I purchased it about 8 months ago and all was well, no major marks on screen, just a single dead pixel. However a few weeks ago I noticed few dark 'lines' on the screen that almost look like water has dripped down inside the case and into the panel. I know this is impossible though as I'm very careful when cleaning the screen and liquids have never gone near it. There are 2 distinct lines about an inch apart, one about 6 cm long and the other about 14cm. They are both about 2mm or so across. There are also a few lighter lines of similar thickness below them. All of the lines are on the right lie about 10 - 13 cm in from the right side of the screen. They are also only visible when viewing dark-medium brightness colours and especially apparent on greys as shown in the images.

If anyone has any idea what these are or how to fix them, it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## Cyclops

Guys I've got a question.

I have a 144 Hz panel and I simply can't play FPS games on a 60 hz monitor anymore. It just seems too jittery and laggy. I've got two 4 GB GTX 680s in SLI and their potential is wasted by this 1080p screen.

I've been thinking about getting one of these catleap monitors for quite some time now since 1440p/1600p is the way forward. nVidia just came out with their new drivers that made refresh rate overclocking a piece of cake.

I need to know which of the 1440p panels are overclockable. The higher the hertz the better.

Thanks folks.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Guys I've got a question.
> 
> I have a 144 Hz panel and I simply can't play FPS games on a 60 hz monitor anymore. It just seems too jittery and laggy. I've got two 4 GB GTX 680s in SLI and their potential is wasted by this 1080p screen.
> 
> I've been thinking about getting one of these catleap monitors for quite some time now since 1440p/1600p is the way forward. nVidia just came out with their new drivers that made refresh rate overclocking a piece of cake.
> 
> I need to know which of the 1440p panels are overclockable. The higher the hertz the better.
> 
> Thanks folks.


The limited edition Catleap 2b edition works, but are hard to find. I'd try looking for Overlord Tempest, which goes 120. No 1440p I've heard of has yet to reach 144hz... I think there may have been discussions on making one higher than 120, but to my current knowledge no product has materialized from that discussion so far.


----------



## Roikyou

Asus 1080p are the only ones I've heard of so far with 144hz, 24 and 27 inch.


----------



## Cyclops

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> The limited edition Catleap 2b edition works, but are hard to find. I'd try looking for Overlord Tempest, which goes 120. No 1440p I've heard of has yet to reach 144hz... I think there may have been discussions on making one higher than 120, but to my current knowledge no product has materialized from that discussion so far.


Thanks.

I don't care much about 144Hz. 120 should be just fine and hard to differentiate.

So I guess my choices are Catleap 2B or Overlord Tempest.


----------



## Cyclops

Damn the 2B is 850 dollars









http://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473


----------



## Roikyou

720 if 120hz gets them in...


----------



## Cyclops

Do 120Hz guys ship to Canada?


----------



## technoir

Hi Guys,

Any idea on what the lines on the screen are from my post on previous page?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/9500#post_19400821

Cheers


----------



## Master Freez

Party with the caleap
Party is a catleap
Party never stops


----------



## knightmetro

Could use some help here.

Last week my Catleap Q270 stopped working. I got it from BCC about 8 months ago.

Just stopped showing video one day when I booted up the PC. No issues at ALL before this. It's been a dream the whole time. The back light fires up, solid green light, but there is no actual video at all.

I pulled it apart. reseated all the connections and checked for any board damage. Nada. Changed PC's. Tried DVI, a new HDMI... NADA

Help?? I love this monitor. I'd hate to have to sink another 3-400 on a new one when I was planning on spending that to get 2 IPS 24" to flank this one.


----------



## kaze101

Just got my new Yamakasi Q270 Multi, and i've been trying to OC it.
Followed the guide and i've applied 86hz as my monitor refresh rate, i opened up League of Legends to test it and the smoothness seems to have dropped and movement of the characters seems quite jittery. Vysnc is enabled and fps is a constant 86fps.
Anyone know how to fix this? Or does this just mean i can't OC my refresh rate.
I have a gtx580 if that helps =).

Settings:


----------



## lusal

I feel your pain, bro.

I've got a Q270 Multi, 7 months old, worked amazingly the past months - just a dream. All of a sudden, as of February 24th, it's developed the blanking screen of death. I debezeled it and took it apart to look for bulging capacitors, fried PCB parts and to re-seat the connections - no dice.

After scouring the forums, I ran across a post whereby it was found by another user that if you remove the menu/OSD/source button panel that it may alleviate the issue. I jumped at the chance and did just that. It worked quite well and I thought that I was out of the forest until the issue arose again. It seems to occur when there's a lot of pixel movement on screen. HD gaming or videos - but that's really just anecdotal evidence.

I'm trying to track down a multimeter to check the power supply before I just go buying another one. My instinct tells me that it's something to do with not getting enough power or a malfunctioning PCB in relation to the power it's receiving. I could purchase a replacement PCB, but I don't want to go that route until it's absolutely necessary.

If you run into any solutions, please post it here. I'll kindly do the same. Good luck!


----------



## MClolwut

Hey guys,

I'm holding a sticky topic in a huge german community regarding this and actual all korean 27" 2560x1440 monitors. I'm about to update the topic over there and the most wanted part by the users is actually the overclocking. I already came along this thread several times and just noticed when I did an more accurate search that the Overclocking stuff here has been updated as well.
Now I'm wondering, is the tutorial specific for the Catleap or might it work for Crossover and Achieva as well? Actually they're using pretty much the same panel aint they? Also is this tutorial focused on 2B PCB or doesn't it matter?

I really appreciate any help which might lead to a quick update on my topic. Thanks.


----------



## BoredErica

You need 2b PCB to overclock a lot. Crossover/Shimians never had that, so it won't work. But Catleap 2b is discontinued and hard to find. Tempest is the only game in town for now.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MClolwut*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I'm holding a sticky topic in a huge german community regarding this and actual all korean 27" 2560x1440 monitors. I'm about to update the topic over there and the most wanted part by the users is actually the overclocking. I already came along this thread several times and just noticed when I did an more accurate search that the Overclocking stuff here has been updated as well.
> Now I'm wondering, is the tutorial specific for the Catleap or might it work for Crossover and Achieva as well? Actually they're using pretty much the same panel aint they? Also is this tutorial focused on 2B PCB or doesn't it matter?
> 
> I really appreciate any help which might lead to a quick update on my topic. Thanks.


Only Catleap "2B" PCBs can overclock. None others can. There are a couple that use the "2B" panel - but none can be bought cheaply and should be treated separately. Suffice to say, overclocking is moot - _unless_ you paid extra ($500-$700) for the specific ones that can overclock. For 100% of the monitors on ebay, they aren't overclockable, with the sole exception here.


----------



## arktoga

My Yamakasi died on me today, and i'm 100% sure the PCB is the problem.
Hence my question: is there any way to buy the PCB alone?

I'm really saddened, trashing a perfectly working panel just because of faulty electronics would be a shame..


----------



## hamzatm

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arktoga*
> 
> My Yamakasi died on me today, and i'm 100% sure the PCB is the problem.
> Hence my question: is there any way to buy the PCB alone?
> 
> I'm really saddened, trashing a perfectly working panel just because of faulty electronics would be a shame..


I know you can by a 2B PCB for something ridiculous like $200 or something!


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Only Catleap "2B" PCBs can overclock. None others can. There are a couple that use the "2B" panel - but none can be bought cheaply and should be treated separately. Suffice to say, overclocking is moot - _unless_ you paid extra ($500-$700) for the specific ones that can overclock. For 100% of the monitors on ebay, they aren't overclockable, with the sole exception here.


I actually picked up one of these, willing to pay the extra and suppose to come in the next day or two (says it's two hours away from me). Reading the add, the seller states he'll honor the warranty, well see how that goes...hopefully I won't need it.

I have the u3011 and the picture is amazing but the screen tearing is too much (even with sync or adaptive sync) I came from 120hz monitor and it was smooth. I'm hoping this is a good medium between the 120hz and ips.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I actually picked up one of these, willing to pay the extra and suppose to come in the next day or two (says it's two hours away from me). Reading the add, the seller states he'll honor the warranty, well see how that goes...hopefully I won't need it.
> 
> I have the u3011 and the picture is amazing but the screen tearing is too much (even with sync or adaptive sync) I came from 120hz monitor and it was smooth. I'm hoping this is a good medium between the 120hz and ips.


What do you mean he'll honor the warranty?

And yes, this is by far the best compromise available between 120hz and IPS. Actually. It's the _only_ compromise available between the two


----------



## MClolwut

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Only Catleap "2B" PCBs can overclock. None others can. There are a couple that use the "2B" panel - but none can be bought cheaply and should be treated separately. Suffice to say, overclocking is moot - _unless_ you paid extra ($500-$700) for the specific ones that can overclock. For 100% of the monitors on ebay, they aren't overclockable, with the sole exception here.


I assume no one yet tried to put a 2B PCB into a Crossover or Achieva?
Personally I think it should work. The technology behind should be the same if we are talking about the same features like no speaker and such.
Would be interested if it is possible to do so.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> What do you mean he'll honor the warranty?
> 
> And yes, this is by far the best compromise available between 120hz and IPS. Actually. It's the _only_ compromise available between the two


What? There are 2bs and Tempest...


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MClolwut*
> 
> I assume no one yet tried to put a 2B PCB into a Crossover or Achieva?
> Personally I think it should work. The technology behind should be the same if we are talking about the same features like no speaker and such.
> Would be interested if it is possible to do so.


It works in Achievas; Crossovers can't do it properly because the housing doesn't quite fit the PCB.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> What? There are 2bs and Tempest...


Err... I was referring to them as a group (the overclockable IPS 1440p) since they all use the same panel; I wasn't referring to the listing by Greensum on Ebay specifically







Thus, overclockable 1440p IPS panels are the best compromise between 120hz and IPS screens.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Err... I was referring to them as a group (the overclockable IPS 1440p) since they all use the same panel; I wasn't referring to the listing by Greensum on Ebay specifically
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thus, overclockable 1440p IPS panels are the best compromise between 120hz and IPS screens.


Well, it's got both, so yeah, it would qualify.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> What do you mean he'll honor the warranty?
> 
> And yes, this is by far the best compromise available between 120hz and IPS. Actually. It's the _only_ compromise available between the two


From the add, sounded like the seller would honor the one year warranty, don't know if he's a direct rep for the manufacturer. I could most likely be wrong....

Warranty

Most products we sell have one year warrenty for FREE.
If it has some faulty in manufacturing process, we will exchange it or fix it for FREE.
and if customers make a mistake on the product and it has some faulties, we will
try to fix it at the Lowest price.


----------



## AJCxZ0

Schilling for NewEgg, since this weekend they are discounting the ten foot DVI cable which I use with my Catleap Q270 and recommend.

Nippon Labs Premium 10 ft. with Digital Dual-link Model DVI 10 DD $7.99 and free shipping with promo code EMCXTXM57.


----------



## kidling

hi guys, yesterday one of my 2 Catleap Yamakasi 27Q model 2C died. Blank screen and backlight on with green light up . I tried to fix it by opening and fixing the conections but withou sucess. Anyone have a place to buy another PCB?

Or is there a way to fix that?

thanks


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cyclops*
> 
> Do 120Hz guys ship to Canada?


Yes...the monitors ship direct from South Korea anywhere in the world. 120Hz.net is simply the broker.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJT*
> 
> Yes...the monitors ship direct from South Korea anywhere in the world. 120Hz.net is simply the broker.


I thought 120hz is from Americans who started wanting to push out 120hz?


----------



## apav

Hey guys, I bought a Q270 LED SE back in June (only one DVI port, no speakers). Thought I'd also add my thoughts on this monitor after using it for so long!

*Picture:* We all know picture quality is amazing, so I really have nothing to say on that besides the usual, it's amazing.







It's pretty much my new standard, since all of the TV/monitors I have watched movies and games on so far just don't compare. I've gotten used to it by now, but everyone I know marvels at how good games look on my monitor when they come over









*Build quality:* 1 dead pixel in the center right of the screen. At first it was so annoying! I tried everything to fix it, but I've accepted that this is what I payed for and for the most part don't even notice it's there anymore. I can't really fault them for that though, they list it as a disclaimer and these are by definition A- panels, so this won't affect my score.

The stand was absolute crap, so I replaced it with a monoprice using a guide in this post:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/2040#post_16868704

But I'm not 100% happy. On the monoprice site it said it is made for 10-23" monitors, which I saw and inquired about, but was told that it holds it perfectly. It was also the closest I could find for what I needed. Despite that and omekone's opinion, I don't think it's really meant to be holding a monitor this large or heavy. It has for this long, but it's supposed to be movable (it's in a ball and socket joint like mechanism- not sure what to call it). Whenever I try to adjust it though, it can never hold that position. So I found a position that balances its weight and is comfortable to look at. Also, the bracket holding the monitor to the stand seems a little loose, even if I tighten the screws they still look like they are coming out a little. The best way to explain is by picture. I couldn't really get a good shot to explain what I'm talking about but notice the gap:


Again, it's held for this long, but it seems like it may be barely holding it down. *Any suggestions for how to make it more secure?* I guess my best option would be to get a new stand, but is my current one that unsecure that you would say I need to get a new stand?

*Features:* While not a huge deal to me, I'm kind of disappointed that this lacks an interface or a menu. You got volume up and down buttons which have no use on my monitor, brightness up and down, and the power. That's it. If you want to calibrate this monitor, you have to go about doing it other ways. Also, there's the lack of ports. Even if it's a basic model, it should have more than one DVI port, an audio port (what for? I don't have speakers in this monitor) and the power. I didn't need the extra ports, so I bought the basic model. I understand what I purchased, but I feel like in 2012/2013, most monitors come with something more than this. But then again this isn't an average monitor. All in all, It's a very high quality panel put into a very low tech monitor, but I still love it eitherway.

*Random things I have noticed:* How hot are these monitors supposed to get? I was leaning over my monitor the other day, and over the vents it felt pretty hot. Nothing extreme, but I was a little surprised that a monitor could feel this hot over the vents. Also, it buzzes on bright pages like google images or wikipedia, but I read that this is completely normal with any monitor.

Overall I'd rate this monitor 4 out of 5. That 4 is easily just from the image quality alone. But it's not any higher because the lack of ports, the lack of an interface and the terrible (even dangerous) stand. I tried to be as critical as possible so I could write something unbiased, but don't get the wrong idea, I freaking love my monitor to death and personally don't care about any of the cons I listed. Without any of the "what it should have", so basically on it's own, I'd rate it a 4.5/5. The picture quality is too amazing for me to be picky about the rest of the monitor, but I wanted to be thorough. Thanks for reading







Also can you please help me out with the stand issue I'm having?


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> can we make a vote like "is your cat still alive?" or "is your cat dead?"
> 
> then people knows the monitor's service record.
> 
> my one i sold to a friend is now 6 months old and still works. but never use continuous for 4 hours.
> 
> the panel itself should be reliable but the power brick may cause some thing to go wrong. because these koreans use the cheapest parts to build the monitor.
> 
> 1. cheap plastic exterior, ok. no damage done
> 2. but cheap power supply? like you put a crap psu in a computer could catch fire.
> 
> i am not 100% sure these are monitor power is crap but they do get pretty darn hot after a while.
> 
> yeah white ones looks much better. i want to get a white one to match my white case and get a ibm model m keyboard which is also white. but may ruin the modern look of the set up.
> 
> the white ones cost way more than black ones so not really worth it.
> 
> why nobody buy the $500, 30 inch catleap? that 600 cheaper than dell compared to catleap is only 300 cheaper than dell.


1 year now since I bought my catleap from BBC and I have had 0 problems with it. It is going super strong and couldn't be happier!!!







:thumb:


----------



## Alkajak

Where do you guys recommend buying this monitor right now? Been reading a lot of 2012 threads about how this used to be $400 dollars, I can't find one similar priced right now. I also don't know the difference between the Q270 Multi or the Q270 SE, etc.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> can we make a vote like "is your cat still alive?" or "is your cat dead?"
> 
> then people knows the monitor's service record.
> 
> my one i sold to a friend is now 6 months old and still works. but never use continuous for 4 hours.
> 
> the panel itself should be reliable but the power brick may cause some thing to go wrong. because these koreans use the cheapest parts to build the monitor.
> 
> 1. cheap plastic exterior, ok. no damage done
> 2. but cheap power supply? like you put a crap psu in a computer could catch fire.
> 
> i am not 100% sure these are monitor power is crap but they do get pretty darn hot after a while.
> 
> yeah white ones looks much better. i want to get a white one to match my white case and get a ibm model m keyboard which is also white. but may ruin the modern look of the set up.
> 
> the white ones cost way more than black ones so not really worth it.
> 
> why nobody buy the $500, 30 inch catleap? that 600 cheaper than dell compared to catleap is only 300 cheaper than dell.


Mine's still alive and going strong. Had it since June. Only recently noticed the buzzing sound on bright white pages, and the amount of heat coming from the vents on the top surprised me, but I think that's normal. Can anyone comment on this? And my review like 2 posts above explains things well I think.


----------



## apav

Worlds worst lag spike sorry







pls delete


----------



## apav

Worlds worst lag spike sorry







pls delete


----------



## apav

Worlds worst lag spike sorry







pls delete


----------



## apav

Worlds worst lag spike sorry







pls delete

Well, this is embarrassing. Stupid tablet and intermittent network connection.


----------



## Roikyou

My thoughts on my Catleap Q270 2B extreme overclock monitor I picked up recently. Well packed but I noticed a lot of static when I was unpacking, shocked many times. Kind of spooky with electronics...

Stand, not the greatest but not the worse, should be better for the price range I hit but the price range is on par with other 1440p monitors except this one you can push harder. Took me a min to figure out the brightness was set as high as possible and to hold the button on the right now to turn it down.

The picture is on par with a u3011 I just got rid of cause the tearing was unacceptable to me, no stuck pixels, no bleeding that I noticed. There was humming like from a fluorescent tube when overclocked to 90hz or greater, 113 was the best I could get when I was running 680's in sli but rebuilt the computer over the weekend, running just one Titan now and I noticed the response was better with the monitor and the titan but have yet to try to over clock any greater than 113. Part of me is thinking as long as things are smooth, hit around 80hz and call it good, no whine but 90 really isnt that bad, you can hear it more when you hit a white page of course.

Options in the osd, not necessary in my opinion, get a calibrating tool if you really need to, it has you set the brightness and then sets up a profile for you in the OS which of course has to load at boot. The picture again, colors and such, were just as good as the u3011, except the u3011 was shipped at 50% brightness and was very dark, this one is the opposite, 100% and very bright (you can turn the u3011 all the way up and it still was not bright, very dark).

I'm happy with it even at the higher price I paid.


----------



## Alkajak

Well, there go my hopes of buying a Catleap anytime soon.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120878749173&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT

Price went up from 499 to 699 today. The non-pixel perfect model went up from 479 to 579. Absolutely absurd price. Might as well buy retail IPS.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Mine's still alive and going strong. Had it since June. Only recently noticed the buzzing sound on bright white pages, and the amount of heat coming from the vents on the top surprised me, but I think that's normal. Can anyone comment on this? And my review like 2 posts above explains things well I think.


I really don't think it is anything to worry about. Mine has always been a little warmer then previous monitors and like I said in a previous post I have owned mine for a tad over a year now and it is going super strong!! When I bought mine I only paid $280 for it hahahaha. Super cool!! Now there hella expensive!! Well, for what the monitor is and its specs its not expensive but I am referring to the Catleap and what it was priced at.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alkajak*
> 
> Well, there go my hopes of buying a Catleap anytime soon.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120878749173&ssPageName=STRK:MESE:IT
> 
> Price went up from 499 to 699 today. The non-pixel perfect model went up from 479 to 579. Absolutely absurd price. Might as well buy retail IPS.


Damn!! That's freaking insane! You used to be able to buy the 2b overclockable model for $500 lol. Damn, I should have bought the 2b back then...oh well, still in love with mine. And I have it overclocked from 60hz to 68hz hahaha.


----------



## eternal7trance

Now that the price is going up we should all sell ours for more money! lol


----------



## hellomoto

Was looking at getting one as seen my mates and it is amazing, just wondering i want dvi cause dont want the lag with the hdmi one.

Is there anyway of connecting a ps3 through hdmi to the dual dvi? would an active dvi-hdmi converter work? think they are around £60-100

Thanks for any help


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Was looking at getting one as seen my mates and it is amazing, just wondering i want dvi cause dont want the lag with the hdmi one.
> 
> Is there anyway of connecting a ps3 through hdmi to the dual dvi? would an active dvi-hdmi converter work? think they are around £60-100
> 
> Thanks for any help


If you want to use your PS3 with it, forget trying for low input lag and get a multi-input one.

PS3 can't output 1440p anyways, the highest resolution you'll get is 720p with a single-input DVI only Catleap.
You can get 1080p from a multi-input Catleap.

HDMI -> Dual Link DVI converters are either non-existent or very, very rare - I have not seen one on the market as of yet. As you surmursed, no cheap "HDMI->DL-DVI" adapters will work. None of the ones I searched up for quickly on ebay or amazon do what you need it to do. PS3 on a single input catleap is a waste of a Catleap - you can't make real use of it anyways.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> If you want to use your PS3 with it, forget trying for low input lag and get a multi-input one.
> 
> PS3 can't output 1440p anyways, the highest resolution you'll get is 720p with a single-input DVI only Catleap.
> You can get 1080p from a multi-input Catleap.
> 
> HDMI -> Dual Link DVI converters are either non-existent or very, very rare - I have not seen one on the market as of yet. As you surmursed, no cheap "HDMI->DL-DVI" adapters will work. None of the ones I searched up for quickly on ebay or amazon do what you need it to do. PS3 on a single input catleap is a waste of a Catleap - you can't make real use of it anyways.


Thanks, its more for my pc i dont actually own a ps3 the ps3 would be for gf only.
How would i plug it in to use 720?
although i guess it would look very bad :/ might be better off just picking up a cheap 1080 tv and keeping the catleap for the pc.

another question ive got a 7970 at the moment will a catleap work off the dp-dvi connector? or i have to use dual dvi?

thanks for the help


----------



## lusal

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lusal*
> 
> I've had a Q270 Multi since July of 2012 - roughly 7 months or so. I purchased it through Amazon from AccessoriesWhole. It's been working wonderfully. However, as of yesterday I've been getting an odd problem. The screen has been "blanking", or going black and then back to normal during normal use. I'm using the included DVI-Dual Link cable and power supply and have not tampered with the stand or bezel.
> The problem is exactly like what is seen on these two youtube videos:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and also...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is exactly what I'm dealing with. Has anyone experienced anything similar? Is there anything I can do to fix this issue? I really love the monitor but this problem has made it un-usable. I've contacted the seller, but I'm not expecting anything.
> I fear that I've flown too close to the sun on the wings of Yamakasi.


I just wanted to follow up on my situation in the hopes of helping out others. I purchased my Q270 Multi from AccessoriesWhole via Amazon. The screen fading / screen blanking problem came up 7 months after purchase. After numerous attempts to contact AW through Amazon with no reply, I finally opted to contact them through their eBay storefront. I received a reply fairly quickly yesterday so that's a feather in their cap. It seemed to be a standard tech-support form email that others have received:

_Hi

Sorry for the inconvenience.
Have you removed the paneling to see if there's something blown?
Will you check if the board is defective?
If you take off the back panel of the monitor to see that a MOSFET on the PCB board had burned out like these photos?
http://i46.tinypic.com/23kvoz.jpg
http://i46.tinypic.com/34z0cp1.png
http://www.abload.de/img/photov5uz5.jpg
http://www.abload.de/img/photo2sru9a.jpg

Sincerely
- accessorieswhole_

I replied as soon as I could with the following:

_Hello:

I've checked out the PCB and did not see any obvious signs of burnt MOSFET, capacitors or traces. There was one area that I wasn't sure of and I've circled it with yellow via MS Paint.

I've taken photos of the front and back PCB so you can see first hand what I was looking at. The pictures can be found here:



http://imgur.com/lwMXP


Thank you for replying. I really appreciate the good customer service.







I just want this monitor working again. I really like it. Thank you._

If any of you guys could please take a peek at the pictures I'd appreciate it. My untrained eyes may have overlooked a PCB issue. Frankly, I'm surprised to be getting a response from them. I'm cautiously optimistic about this. Hopefully we'll all see some resolution soon.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Thanks, its more for my pc i dont actually own a ps3 the ps3 would be for gf only.
> How would i plug it in to use 720?
> although i guess it would look very bad :/ might be better off just picking up a cheap 1080 tv and keeping the catleap for the pc.
> 
> another question ive got a 7970 at the moment will a catleap work off the dp-dvi connector? or i have to use dual dvi?
> 
> thanks for the help


Best to get a random 1080p tv for the PS3. If you really really insisted on using the PS3, you could probably use a standard HDMI -> DVI converter and set your PS3 to do 720p output.

You could work off a DP-DL-DVI connector... but you won't want to. Use your DL-DVI port. Besides of which, when you say "the" DP-DVI connector, it probably won't do what you want it to do anythings. Use native ports when possible.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Best to get a random 1080p tv for the PS3. If you really really insisted on using the PS3, you could probably use a standard HDMI -> DVI converter and set your PS3 to do 720p output.
> 
> You could work off a DP-DL-DVI connector... but you won't want to. Use your DL-DVI port. Besides of which, when you say "the" DP-DVI connector, it probably won't do what you want it to do anythings. Use native ports when possible.


Yeh thats what i was leaning to, ok will consider that if needed.

ahh ok, i dont understand why they put so many dp ports and one dual dvi


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Yeh thats what i was leaning to, ok will consider that if needed.
> 
> ahh ok, i dont understand why they put so many dp ports and one dual dvi


Because DisplayPort is more extensible than DL-DVI. There's no consumer video card that can drive more than 2x DL-DVI ports.

Just stick with DisplayPort monitors. That's what I do and I never run into any problems.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> There's no consumer video card that can drive more than 2x DL-DVI ports.
> 
> Just stick with DisplayPort monitors. That's what I do and I never run into any problems.


ahh didnt realize that, yeh surely running 3 catleaps would be a problem, if sli cards could only run 2 ha.


----------



## lusal

I just wanted to post an interesting finding that I've had with my defective Q270 Multi.






I've sent this along with two other videos to AccessoriesWhole in hopes of at least getting a new main PCB and a new OSD/Menu PCB to see if it corrects the problem. In cross referencing some of the technical issues, I've read that a run of Crossover panels had a similar issue whereby the menu and function PCB was causing issues with the entire function of the monitor. This seems to be a similar issue. If there was a short in the on screen display/ menu PCB it could very well cause issues in the main PCB.

We'll see what unfolds and I'll post my results here in the hopes of furthering our technical knowledge of these awesome monitors.

Please help me out AccessoriesWhole! lol.


----------



## Cyclops

Disregard


----------



## Qbex

Hi Guys,
One of very few 2a models here - (Panel still going strong - deal of my life for 330$







Got a bit of a problem - just added second gtx680 to my rig and I'm experiencing huge screen flickering in games when running 100Hz overclock on q270. Looks like cards are asynchronised or something. No problems with 60Hz bumping to 80Hz and I can start to see flickering bump to 100Hz and screen is all over the place. Anyone experienced something like that?
Mobo Asus P67 Sabretooth (latest bios) , (Drivers : newest 314.14 beta) my first "old" gfx is Galaxy gtx680 (no problems with 100Hz single card) my new gtx 680 - MSI twin frozer. They have different stock clocks, I tried to match clocks on both cards but still getting flickering on 100Hz so its not the cause.
Kind of a bummer with sli not working at 100Hz , I'd rather avoid buying overpriced Titan if I can .... and going back to 60Hz after couple of months butter smooth 100Hz is not an option for me.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbex*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> One of very few 2a models here - (Panel still going strong - deal of my life for 330$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Got a bit of a problem - just added second gtx680 to my rig and I'm experiencing huge screen flickering in games when running 100Hz overclock on q270. Looks like cards are asynchronised or something. No problems with 60Hz bumping to 80Hz and I can start to see flickering bump to 100Hz and screen is all over the place. Anyone experienced something like that?
> Mobo Asus P67 Sabretooth (latest bios) , (Drivers : newest 314.14 beta) my first "old" gfx is Galaxy gtx680 (no problems with 100Hz single card) my new gtx 680 - MSI twin frozer. They have different stock clocks, I tried to match clocks on both cards but still getting flickering on 100Hz so its not the cause.
> Kind of a bummer with sli not working at 100Hz , I'd rather avoid buying overpriced Titan if I can .... and going back to 60Hz after couple of months butter smooth 100Hz is not an option for me.
> Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> Cheers


do you have the pixel limit for sli patched?


----------



## Qbex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> do you have the pixel limit for sli patched?


I don't recall I did - is it the "win 7 Test mode" thingy ? It shows in my bottom right corner, but I'm not sure what's that patch, where can I find it, please ?


----------



## Qbex

Ok , found that patcher thanks, but that was not that , patching driver did not help with flickering.
But I've found solution anyways - swapping cards and sli bridge solved my problem completely. I'm in 100Hz Sli nirvana now








Thanks for help anyway.
I'm off to playing FTL


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbex*
> 
> Ok , found that patcher thanks, but that was not that , patching driver did not help with flickering.
> But I've found solution anyways - swapping cards and sli bridge solved my problem completely. I'm in 100Hz Sli nirvana now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for help anyway.
> I'm off to playing FTL


Well without the patch you never would have got 100+ hz ;p


----------



## Illudrium

Does anybody know what the correct input lag measurement on the multi input monitor edition is? I've been searching endlessly but I keep on finding conflicting results. Some say it's in the range of 30-40 ms while others say 16-24 ms. Lastly, would these measurements apply to all multi input editions from different brands of these types of monitors?


----------



## Scrubls

where can i get a 24" one in UK??


----------



## Illudrium

^They don't make 24 inch. models


----------



## Scrubls

according to this they do

http://www.witechit.co.kr/new_product01.html


----------



## Illudrium

Oh wow, I had no idea. Sorry about the misinformation. Well, as is the case all these monitors, you will have to import them from Korea or buy off a reseller on ebay.


----------



## unkuser

Have been reading a lot about this monitor. Finally took the plunge today and bought one.

Anybody have any experience from this ebay vendor?
*korexmall*

I bought Q270 LED Multi White S-IPS 27" Monitor WQHD 2560x1440 (Perfert Pixel) for $399. I wanted the White one, this is the best price I could find for the white one.

Wish me luck, crossing my fingers i get a good unit.

By the way. Has anybody try running this on a Intel HD4000? It will take me about 2-3 weeks before I get a new video card. Want to test the monitor first on the built-in one first.


----------



## maramusa

Hi

Could someone try this monitor at 1920x1080p, how does it look, crisp, text??
My i7 vaio laptop can only output 1080p form the 1 HDMI port (or vga) , so i am thinking of running this at that res if it still looks great, including text, and i can use the full res whenever i get a laptop that can do it.
My graphics card can do 2560 x 1440, but is limited by the HDMI port.

Or should i just get a cheap 1080p monitor???????
CHeers


----------



## hellomoto

Mine arrived no dead pixels at all really pleased, slight colour adjustments but pretty close looks amazing though.

And they do 24" ones iirc they are around £160 though doesnt seem worth it when you can get a 27" for a bit more.


----------



## Xr4ze

I have a question about these Korean monitors. I'm planning on buying one and wondering how long do these monitors usually last? I don't want to buy a monitor that'll break after a couple of months, thanks.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xr4ze*
> 
> I have a question about these Korean monitors. I'm planning on buying one and wondering how long do these monitors usually last? I don't want to buy a monitor that'll break after a couple of months, thanks.


I've had mine for about a year now and still no issues.


----------



## Fa11ou7

So I've been watching this thread now for a year or so and would have purchased one of these amazing monitors had I not purchased a planar 27" on sale prior to finding out about these monitors. Now that Monoprice is selling a similar model made by LG for $390.60 here, is there any reason to go through all the hassle with these Ebay deals, especially since the price seems to be increasing?


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*
> 
> So I've been watching this thread now for a year or so and would have purchased one of these amazing monitors had I not purchased a planar 27" on sale prior to finding out about these monitors. Now that Monoprice is selling a similar model made by LG for $390.60 here, is there any reason to go through all the hassle with these Ebay deals, especially since the price seems to be increasing?


Same panel, just different casing.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Same panel, just different casing.


I believe its also the same panel that is in the Apple Cinema Displays which is really cool, but my question still stands. What reason is there anymore to purchase the Yamakasi and equivelant from ebay anymore when you can get it from a legitimate company like Monoprice with all these benefits?

30 day money back guarantee
No restocking fee
Easy return
100% safe SSL encrypted shopping
PCI-DSS Level 1 Compliant
9.70/10 Resellerratings.com Customer Satisfaction Rate
Lifetime warranty on all cables and non-electronic products
Maybe someone should put a PSA on the 1st page?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*
> 
> I believe its also the same panel that is in the Apple Cinema Displays which is really cool, but my question still stands. What reason is there anymore to purchase the Yamakasi and equivelant from ebay anymore when you can get it from a legitimate company like Monoprice with all these benefits?
> 
> 30 day money back guarantee
> No restocking fee
> Easy return
> 100% safe SSL encrypted shopping
> PCI-DSS Level 1 Compliant
> 9.70/10 Resellerratings.com Customer Satisfaction Rate
> Lifetime warranty on all cables and non-electronic products
> Maybe someone should put a PSA on the 1st page?


Catleaps with single input have less input lag.
Catleaps can come with optional tempered glass.
You can get Catleaps worldwide. Not so much with Monoprice.


----------



## Fa11ou7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Catleaps with single input have less input lag.
> Catleaps can come with optional tempered glass.
> You can get Catleaps worldwide. Not so much with Monoprice.


Well if you can't get Monoprice to ship to you then certainly its not an option, I was kind of assuming it only applied to you if you could in fact order from them. The other two items you mentioned don't outweight the benefits in my book but that is good to know for those who do. One other thing I read is that the base/stand doesn't come off for anyone that wants to wall mount, you have to mount it with the stand in place.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fa11ou7*
> 
> I believe its also the same panel that is in the Apple Cinema Displays which is really cool, but my question still stands. What reason is there anymore to purchase the Yamakasi and equivelant from ebay anymore when you can get it from a legitimate company like Monoprice with all these benefits?
> 
> 30 day money back guarantee
> No restocking fee
> Easy return
> 100% safe SSL encrypted shopping
> PCI-DSS Level 1 Compliant
> 9.70/10 Resellerratings.com Customer Satisfaction Rate
> Lifetime warranty on all cables and non-electronic products
> Maybe someone should put a PSA on the 1st page?


yeh thats correct, guess not much of a reason your call.
The catleaps here ive seen "DGM"? selling with hdmi for £400 lol, they are making some profit on these catleaps, some people do buy them just cause they are wary of buying from korea/abroad etc.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maramusa*
> 
> Hi
> 
> Could someone try this monitor at 1920x1080p, how does it look, crisp, text??
> My i7 vaio laptop can only output 1080p form the 1 HDMI port (or vga) , so i am thinking of running this at that res if it still looks great, including text, and i can use the full res whenever i get a laptop that can do it.
> My graphics card can do 2560 x 1440, but is limited by the HDMI port.
> 
> Or should i just get a cheap 1080p monitor???????
> CHeers


Ill be honest it doesnt look great, i mean its useable but a 1080p 24" screen would probably be better.
Im fairly sure a laptop cant run these either as you need an active dual dvi output, so the multi one with hdmi would be your best bet.
Also ive got use to 1440 so anything less just looks like a tv now ha.


----------



## maramusa

Yeah, thanks, I thought that might be the answer. I'll just have to make sure I don't look at a 27" as to diminish my 24" joy.

Any Catleap 24" sellers anyone has tried?


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maramusa*
> 
> Yeah, thanks, I thought that might be the answer. I'll just have to make sure I don't look at a 27" as to diminish my 24" joy.
> 
> Any Catleap 24" sellers anyone has tried?


I bought my 27", and 2 others for friends off bigclothcraft, great seller and they arrived in around 3 days.
they sell some 24" ones aswell, although not very cheap.

I think they had the 27" up for £247 and i bought 2 at £210 each.

heres the 24"
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New24-Yamakasi-Catleap-240-LED-iSMART-iphone-Dock-HD-MVA-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130843576683?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1e76e2896b

Just measured it against mine and its not much smaller, mine is 65x40cm


----------



## DanRyan23

I am sure these questions have been answered somewhere in the nearly 1000 pages on this forum, but I was hoping someone would have mercy on me and simply answer them for me so I don't have to spend hours searching.

I bought a Q270 LED SE today from ebay so it should be arriving sometime next week, I was simply wondering after seeing all the posts about 60 to 120 hz and I am sure the model I am getting isn't one of the desired 100-120hz ones, am I stuck at 60hz? Is there any wiggle room up to 75hz or more? If so how do you do it?

I was also wondering about wall mounts, I have a very small desk so I would like to put it on the wall behind my desk but from the pictures of it it doesn't look like it has any way to do it, are there any viable options?

Thanks!

Daniel

ASUS M5A99FX PRO R2.0
AMD FX-8350 CPU
XFX Radeon HD 7850 2GB Core Edition


----------



## lee63

Well I guess I'm soon to be in the club... just paid a ridiculous amount of cash for a OCed 2b extreme...my fingers are crossed and I will pray every night that my very expensive but worth every penny too me monitor has no issues.

bought from Green-sum btw. I will report back upon delivery.


----------



## maramusa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> I bought my 27", and 2 others for friends off bigclothcraft, great seller and they arrived in around 3 days.
> they sell some 24" ones aswell, although not very cheap.
> 
> I think they had the 27" up for £247 and i bought 2 at £210 each.
> 
> heres the 24"
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New24-Yamakasi-Catleap-240-LED-iSMART-iphone-Dock-HD-MVA-Panel-PC-Monitor-/130843576683?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1e76e2896b
> 
> Just measured it against mine and its not much smaller, mine is 65x40cm


Thanks for the tip


----------



## lusal

By and large, you should be able to attain an overclock of single digit proportions. The overclocking guide with software links is in the very first post of this thread.

Higher overclocks are possible if you meet one of the following criteria:

1) you have a 2B version that has this extended capability
2) you order an aftermarket 2B PCB kit from Overlord Computers

Monoprice has a nice selection of wallmounts as well as better stands at a reasonable price. You can remove the "silver arc" from the back of the Catleaps by debezelling it and cracking it open - links and pictures in the first post of this thread. From there, you can easily see the VESA mount points.

Good luck!


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lusal*
> 
> By and large, you should be able to attain an overclock of single digit proportions. The overclocking guide with software links is in the very first post of this thread.
> 
> Higher overclocks are possible if you meet one of the following criteria:
> 
> 1) you have a 2B version that has this extended capability
> 2) you order an aftermarket 2B PCB kit from Overlord Computers
> 
> Monoprice has a nice selection of wallmounts as well as better stands at a reasonable price. You can remove the "silver arc" from the back of the Catleaps by debezelling it and cracking it open - links and pictures in the first post of this thread. From there, you can easily see the VESA mount points.
> 
> Good luck!


Removing the bezel is a little trick y so I've read, if I like the height and there is is not noticeable lean I will probably keep the stock stand.

I do have a stand from Monoprice I used with my previous monitor, the one linked below is awesome...you just need to put some kind of rubber pads on the bottom so it wont scratch you deask.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?seq=1&format=2&p_id=5970&CAWELAID=1329452118&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CPGrqcjxjbYCFe1_QgodpVQAOw


----------



## unkuser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unkuser*
> 
> Have been reading a lot about this monitor. Finally took the plunge today and bought one.
> 
> Anybody have any experience from this ebay vendor?
> *korexmall*
> 
> I bought Q270 LED Multi White S-IPS 27" Monitor WQHD 2560x1440 (Perfert Pixel) for $399. I wanted the White one, this is the best price I could find for the white one.
> 
> Wish me luck, crossing my fingers i get a good unit.
> 
> By the way. Has anybody try running this on a Intel HD4000? It will take me about 2-3 weeks before I get a new video card. Want to test the monitor first on the built-in one first.


It took 3 days door to door from Korea. I received it yesterday.
The Monitor is HUGE!!. I thought it would be smaller.
No dead pixel, I was emailing the seller back and forth and the monitor was tested before he shipped it. He marked it on the box. Tested, no dead pixels. Very happy with the transaction. Will take pictures tomorrow.

I am using HDMI at the moment, because I dont have a video card to drive the display.
My Asrock Z77E-ITX DVI is not working when hooked to the monitor (Bios freezes at post), it's really weird. Most likely this is an issue with the Built-in HD4000. (- Supports DVI with max. resolution up to 1920x1200 @ 60Hz)
Need to wait for a deal on a video card.


----------



## DanRyan23

What refresh rate can I overclock to if I have a new Catleap? I am hoping the newer models have some wiggle room and can maybe go up to 75hz or more, is there a limit people are experiencing?


----------



## kevinsbane

66-67hz. Same as ever before.


----------



## DanRyan23

Is it worth it? I thought I read somewhere that if you don't keep it at 60 or 120 (multiples of 60) you get tearing or ghosting


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanRyan23*
> 
> Is it worth it? I thought I read somewhere that if you don't keep it at 60 or 120 (multiples of 60) you get tearing or ghosting


You will get tearing with video playback if you don't stay at multiples of 24/30.

IMO, it's not worth it.


----------



## DanRyan23

Thanks for the info that helps a lot. My desk is super small so I don't want this monitor in my face so I need to put it on the wall behind my desk.

I went with a VideoSecu mount
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ID7QNI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Well I guess I'm soon to be in the club... just paid a ridiculous amount of cash for a OCed 2b extreme...my fingers are crossed and I will pray every night that my very expensive but worth every penny too me monitor has no issues.
> 
> bought from Green-sum btw. I will report back upon delivery.


I bought the same one within the last couple weeks, no dead pixels, works with no issues so far. Overclock max at 113 but I kept mine down to 90 so I don't have too much of a humm and don't want to mode it to get rid of the humm...


----------



## JayXMonsta

Dang the HDMI models are so much rite now.. any idea why? supply and demand?







really wanted one and I keep saving up but the price keeps going up.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> Dang the HDMI models are so much rite now.. any idea why? supply and demand?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> really wanted one and I keep saving up but the price keeps going up.


Most likely just supply and demand.


----------



## lee63

Really....I'm glad I'm not the only one crazy enough to spend that much on a Koren monitor j/k, I'm very happy to know that it came with no issues.

How long did it take to get to you ? Also did you mess with the timings ? I'd really like to get mine to at least 110-120hz









Congrats btw, post some picks if you have time.


----------



## cooler2442

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Really....I'm glad I'm not the only one crazy enough to spend that much on a Koren monitor j/k, I'm very happy to know that it came with no issues.
> 
> How long did it take to get to you ? Also did you mess with the timings ? I'd really like to get mine to at least 110-120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Congrats btw, post some picks if you have time.


110-120hz isn't going to happen unless your willing to spend $550 on one of the OC models and even then it isn't guaranteed and you may only get 90hz.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> 110-120hz isn't going to happen unless your willing to spend $550 on one of the OC models and even than it isn't guaranteed and you may only get 90hz.


Spent a lot more then 550....we'll see when it comes I guess, I'll mess with the timings also.

I've also done a lot of research and know what I'm up against, hell...I'm even willing to replace the PCB if I get a crappy OC


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *cooler2442*
> 
> 110-120hz isn't going to happen unless your willing to spend $550 on one of the OC models and even than it isn't guaranteed and you may only get 90hz.
> 
> 
> 
> Spent a lot more then 550....we'll see when it comes I guess, I'll mess with the timings also.
> 
> I've also done a lot of research and know what I'm up against, hell...I'm even willing to replace the PCB if I get a crappy OC
Click to expand...

did you buy an overclockable model? I've never seen one not reach at least 105hz on auto timings with a newer gpu


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> did you buy an overclockable model? I've never seen one not reach at least 105hz on auto timings with a newer gpu


Yeah, I didn't want to wait for 8 weeks for 120hz.net and Overlord so I took my chance with green-sum...one thing that caught my eye was his dead pixel policy for this monitor.

It says 0 dead pixels allowed, this is the only monitor I could find in his store that has this....thought to myself cant lose really, protected by Ebay and PayPal.



http://imgur.com/Peapu70


----------



## signex

Any YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q271 RETINA users here?

I'm thinking of getting this one next week.


----------



## Roikyou

I got a max of 113 but keep it around 90, no dead pixels. Still no issues, spendy, yes crazy but I also bought a titan and sold my two 680's, so you know I'm off my rocker but things have been good so far with my catleap oc edition from green sum


----------



## lee63

Great this is good news, did you change the stand ? I've read some of them come with a pretty bad tilt.

I see your in SoCal...me too, just wondering how long it took reach your doorstep....I'm so excited.

Oh btw, is there a way of knowing its a 2B without opening it up ?


----------



## Roikyou

Did not change the stand, no problems with tilt, not much versatility such as no height adjustment but it's acceptable. Little wobbly but my desk sucks (next thing to change) but it's also acceptable.

Took a couples days from korea to los angelas to portland oregon and then here, two hours away....extremely fast. Sent on tuesday (which I think it was still monday here considering they're 17 hours ahead of us) in korea and arrived on my doorstep on wednesday.

You'll see a small label on the side saying it's a 2b, it's a factory sticker, so I'm pretty confident it's legit, not just a random stick but no markings on the monitor other than giving you some detail about the monitor but I can't remember the specifics (at work)

Oh, watch out for the static when removing from package, quite a bit of build up on mine. You could always use a grounding strap or touch your computer case (should be earth ground) to help discharge the static. Did not hurt mine but got zapped a few times....


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> Any YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q271 RETINA users here?
> 
> I'm thinking of getting this one next week.


Its not really any different is it?
Surely its not really retina as there isnt enough pixels?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Did not change the stand, no problems with tilt, not much versatility such as no height adjustment but it's acceptable. Little wobbly but my desk sucks (next thing to change) but it's also acceptable.
> 
> Took a couples days from korea to los angelas to portland oregon and then here, two hours away....extremely fast. Sent on tuesday (which I think it was still monday here considering they're 17 hours ahead of us) in korea and arrived on my doorstep on wednesday.
> 
> You'll see a small label on the side saying it's a 2b, it's a factory sticker, so I'm pretty confident it's legit, not just a random stick but no markings on the monitor other than giving you some detail about the monitor but I can't remember the specifics (at work)
> 
> Oh, watch out for the static when removing from package, quite a bit of build up on mine. You could always use a grounding strap or touch your computer case (should be earth ground) to help discharge the static. Did not hurt mine but got zapped a few times....


Ok, thanks for the advice...I would love to see some pics if you have time.


----------



## Roikyou

I'll see if I can get some tonight, only have an iphone but it might do the job.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I'll see if I can get some tonight, only have an iphone but it might do the job.


Right on thank you, did you leave green sum positive feedback for the 2B ? if not then someone else did which is a good sign.


----------



## SammichThyme

I'm looking for a 1440x900p monitor to use in portrait mode next to my Catleap, I'd really like it to be glossy as well. Does anybody have any suggestions?


----------



## unkuser

Has anybody replaced the internal speakers for something better? It doesn't have to be audiophile quality just something louder.

It would fairly simple to solder new speakers.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SammichThyme*
> 
> I'm looking for a 1440x900p monitor to use in portrait mode next to my Catleap, I'd really like it to be glossy as well. Does anybody have any suggestions?


be careful on size's i got a 19" dell and its longer landscape than the height of the catleap im not sure why to be honest.


----------



## Roikyou

Besides my messy desk, here's the pics of my catleap 2b oc edition.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Besides my messy desk, here's the pics of my catleap 2b oc edition.


Wow, I just got more excited, thank you very much. It looks like the stand if there is no lean will be a perfect height for me.

Metro First Light will be a blast on this monitor, hmmmm might have to get some more GPU power lol. Did you try messing with the timings to get a little higher OC or your happy where your at.

I really would like to get 120hz...but I do know that's not for sure.

Thanks again...

I'd really like to know how the hell they got the name Catleap, its so odd


----------



## Roikyou

I think 120 is a roll of the dice, you just have to get lucky. I got 113 but even at 90, it's smooth, no tearing, runs with no issues.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *signex*
> 
> Any YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q271 RETINA users here?
> 
> I'm thinking of getting this one next week.


It's no different than a normal one.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Great this is good news, did you change the stand ? I've read some of them come with a pretty bad tilt.
> 
> I see your in SoCal...me too, just wondering how long it took reach your doorstep....I'm so excited.
> 
> Oh btw, is there a way of knowing its a 2B without opening it up ?


No, you would have to see the number inside.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Its not really any different is it?
> Surely its not really retina as there isnt enough pixels?


Retina is just pixel density in relation to how far the average person would sit away from a monitor like this. So there's no real exact number, just how it looks when you're sitting a certain distance from it. Now what distance that is, is up to Apple to decide.


----------



## lee63

I forgot to ask this, my looks like it will be coming via DHL on Monday...I have an appointment in the morning and probably will not be home when it comes.

Will DHL leave it at my front door ? or will I need to be there to sign for it?

Oh and the ugly sticker on the upper right of the bezel...is it easily removed without marring the bezel ?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Most likely just supply and demand.


Do you ever think the Q270s will go down? should I just buy the Q270 for 550 and give up on the price going back down at all?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> I think 120 is a roll of the dice, you just have to get lucky. I got 113 but even at 90, it's smooth, no tearing, runs with no issues.


It's not the roll of the dice.... Somebody needs to be stupid enough to seel a 2b at normal prices.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> I forgot to ask this, my looks like it will be coming via DHL on Monday...I have an appointment in the morning and probably will not be home when it comes.
> 
> Will DHL leave it at my front door ? or will I need to be there to sign for it?
> 
> Oh and the ugly sticker on the upper right of the bezel...is it easily removed without marring the bezel ?


They made me sign for mine so I would assume it's the same for you.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> They made me sign for mine so I would assume it's the same for you.


Thats too bad, guess I'll have to miss my appt. Its in LA as of yesterday and I'm only an hour and a half away,

I presume its coming tomorrow.

I seems a lot of people had bad luck with the Catleaps early on in the thread...but it gets better as the thread matures, hopefully the QC improved over time.


----------



## BENSON519

First off, Are these monitors any good? Been searching a short time and this thread popped up so I figured I would ask. And when reading some posts I see that a guy on eBay has them in Florida, but how do I know if it is a overclocked one. I really liked a video on YouTube with the extra hz. Any info appreciated as these monitors look amazing for the $$$$$$$$


----------



## adgettin

trying to get in the club here is my pic


http://imgur.com/vh7qKKH


----------



## lee63

Wow, the white looks really clean...congrats.


----------



## TFchris

club me please :3

wait.. that didn't sound right... XD


----------



## Supreme888

Just got my Leonidas and it's amazing!









http://www.flickr.com/photos/skelaita/8575875797/
Untitled by ϟKPhoto, on Flickr


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BENSON519*
> 
> First off, Are these monitors any good? Been searching a short time and this thread popped up so I figured I would ask. And when reading some posts I see that a guy on eBay has them in Florida, but how do I know if it is a overclocked one. I really liked a video on YouTube with the extra hz. Any info appreciated as these monitors look amazing for the $$$$$$$$


If you have to ask whether it's overclockable or not, it's not overclockable. And yes, these monitors (non "2b") are pretty good for the money that you pay.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> It's not the roll of the dice.... Somebody needs to be stupid enough to seel a 2b at normal prices.


What I was saying is there's no real guarantee you'll hit 120 overclock, hence the roll of the dice.

As far as taking the sticker off, once you get it, it blends it, doesn't stick out that bad. Doesn't bother me but I bet someone will chime in on how to remove it eventually or some searching might come up with a way.

As far as overclock-able, depends on the model.


----------



## Roikyou

The searching that I found recently seems like asus 120/144hz monitors if you want something you know asus will stand behind the quality, those are only 1080p, asus 1440p monitor, sounds like a few with dead pixels, no experience here, the 400 to 500 catleap non overclock you mentioned at 1440p from korea, There are the two monitor types that are overclock-able that everyone mentions here, one is 500 and the other is little over 700 depending on availability or if you really want the overclock-able monitor now that myself and another just recently picked up, they're over 800 now on ebay... Guess it depends on how bad you want it and what level you want to settle for...


----------



## lee63

Well I got it today, it does 115hz auto timings....it has one dead/bright pixel off to the right. I'm probably going to keep it but green-sum is going to get a hard time plus I want some cash back.

In the add it says 0 pixels allowed....anyway of getting rid of them ?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supreme888*
> 
> Just got my Leonidas and it's amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/skelaita/8575875797/
> Untitled by ϟKPhoto, on Flickr


That looks very vibrant.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adgettin*
> 
> trying to get in the club here is my pic
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/vh7qKKH


love the white monitor


----------



## eloddevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> That looks very vibrant.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Supreme888*
> 
> Just got my Leonidas and it's amazing!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/skelaita/8575875797/
> Untitled by ϟKPhoto, on Flickr


Price ?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eloddevil*
> 
> Price ?


668 USD


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Well I got it today, it does 115hz auto timings....it has one dead/bright pixel off to the right. I'm probably going to keep it but green-sum is going to get a hard time plus I want some cash back.
> 
> In the add it says 0 pixels allowed....anyway of getting rid of them ?


I thought there were a couple things to try, Google it, should find it fairly quickly. Let me know what kind of response you get out of green sum. Guess I got lucky but if he guarantees 0, then you would think he would honor it, hopefully you didn't give feedback yet.


----------



## lee63

No, no feedback yet. I emailed him and said I wasn't happy...well see what happens I guess. These are his big dollar items, I really don't think bad feedback would help sales.

Does this look like a stuck pixel ? looks a little bigger that the rest of them


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## apav

Quick question. I want to compare the input lag between my Auria and Catleap during gaming with just the naked eye. Does duplicating the image of the screens produce input lag on either screen that wouldn't of been there if I didn't duplicate? Just want to know if it's better to look at one monitor at a time then compare or play with them right next to each other at the same time.

The reason why is because I want to use one for both PC and console gaming. The Auria is similar to the MULTI Catleap, so it has a scalar. I have the SE model Catleap. I know it can display consoles at 720p, so how would that look versus a multi version at 1080p? Wouldn't 720p look stretched? I'm just a little hesitant to sell my Catleap monitor because of the less input lag.

I don't have a console yet to test it with and I have not been able to find any pictures of a single input K-IPS displaying a console.


----------



## lee63

Oh and is the green light supposed to flash when I power down everything ?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Oh and is the green light supposed to flash when I power down everything ?


Yes, that means there's no current input. Powering off the monitor will have a red light.


----------



## JayXMonsta

opps double post


----------



## JayXMonsta

I have a catleap that seems to flash off twice a day only for like 2 seconds its scarring me though is there anything I should do? and does this mean its breaking?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Yes, that means there's no current input. Powering off the monitor will have a red light.


So its normal to flash when there's no signal


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> So its normal to flash when there's no signal


Correct. That's all it means.







If it's on and picks up no signal it will flash green. If it's off it will stay red. If it's on and there's a signal it will display the image and the light will stay green green.

This is how it is for my Q270 SE, not sure about other models.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Quick question. I want to compare the input lag between my Auria and Catleap during gaming with just the naked eye. Does duplicating the image of the screens produce input lag on either screen that wouldn't of been there if I didn't duplicate? Just want to know if it's better to look at one monitor at a time then compare or play with them right next to each other at the same time.
> 
> The reason why is because I want to use one for both PC and console gaming. The Auria is similar to the MULTI Catleap, so it has a scalar. I have the SE model Catleap. I know it can display consoles at 720p, so how would that look versus a multi version at 1080p? Wouldn't 720p look stretched? I'm just a little hesitant to sell my Catleap monitor because of the less input lag.
> 
> I don't have a console yet to test it with and I have not been able to find any pictures of a single input K-IPS displaying a console.


I think that's difficult to do... if we grant a regular Catleap with 1 input has input lag of 11ms, how well can you even notice 11ms, when we consider human error can be more than 50ms? I remember there was a software that tries to measure this kind of stuff but I forgot the name, sorry.


----------



## arktoga

My previous post got overlooked, so i'm shamelessly reposting









Is there any way to buy a PCB for the yamakasi? Mine is probably fried, and i'm getting mad at having such a good panel wasted and lying here unused :x


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arktoga*
> 
> My previous post got overlooked, so i'm shamelessly reposting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way to buy a PCB for the yamakasi? Mine is probably fried, and i'm getting mad at having such a good panel wasted and lying here unused :x


I dunno.
I do recall 120hz was considering making 120hz pcbs though.


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> I think that's difficult to do... if we grant a regular Catleap with 1 input has input lag of 11ms, how well can you even notice 11ms, when we consider human error can be more than 50ms? I remember there was a software that tries to measure this kind of stuff but I forgot the name, sorry.


Well I just wanted to know if duplicating monitors adds more input lag into either of them, because if I do a side by side comparison I may think there's more input lag (placebo effect) than there actually is.

I don't know though. At first, I thought I couldn't really notice this stuff. Now after gaming on the Auria for a while I definitely feel like there's more lag to it, and it feels a little uncomfortable. The only way I can describe it is it's like I'm getting lower fps in games on my Auria, even though that can't happen. It just felt slower to look around. Like I said before, this could all be the dreaded placebo effect though.


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *arktoga*
> 
> My previous post got overlooked, so i'm shamelessly reposting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there any way to buy a PCB for the yamakasi? Mine is probably fried, and i'm getting mad at having such a good panel wasted and lying here unused :x


You can buy replacement PCB boards from http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/accessories/products/overlord-pcb-set. This link will take you to the precise page and there is even a little video (tutorial) to install the board. This is also a 2b board which is nice. Right now the price on this board is great!

I hope it is ok that I link the site.

cheers:thumb:


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *apav*
> 
> Well I just wanted to know if duplicating monitors adds more input lag into either of them, because if I do a side by side comparison I may think there's more input lag (placebo effect) than there actually is.
> 
> I don't know though. At first, I thought I couldn't really notice this stuff. Now after gaming on the Auria for a while I definitely feel like there's more lag to it, and it feels a little uncomfortable. The only way I can describe it is it's like I'm getting lower fps in games on my Auria, even though that can't happen. It just felt slower to look around. Like I said before, this could all be the dreaded placebo effect though.


I notice a big difference going from the Auria to the Catleap...and your absolutely right about the FPS feeling like you get more.

I didn't run MSAA in BF3 with the Auria...with the Catleap I run 2X and its smooth all the time, there's a big difference.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> You can buy replacement PCB boards from http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/accessories/products/overlord-pcb-set. This link will take you to the precise page and there is even a little video (tutorial) to install the board. This is also a 2b board which is nice. Right now the price on this board is great!
> 
> I hope it is ok that I link the site.
> 
> cheers:thumb:


Yikes. I guess I would try that if my board went bad and I was sure of it but the lack of any warranty is a bit scary on that board. Yeah I understand why and appreciate them spelling it out in bold text to be forwarned, but still. Scary.


----------



## lee63

The boards are guaranteed to do 96hz btw


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> The boards are guaranteed to do 96hz btw


They're tested to 96hz, but not guaranteed.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> They're tested to 96hz, but not guaranteed.


Pretty much the same if you ask me.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Pretty much the same if you ask me.


It means that if you can't get 96hz for whatever reason or other, you have no recourse as far as getting a refund or replacement... unless they feel pity for you and take it back at their own discretion.

Guaranteed means that if it doesn't work, they'd have to replace/refund it until you either get your money back, or it works properly.


----------



## lee63

They all do 96hz minimum then...which is still a guaranty too me anyway. They wont send it out unless it does 96hz, take it from someone who owned one


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> No, no feedback yet. I emailed him and said I wasn't happy...well see what happens I guess. These are his big dollar items, I really don't think bad feedback would help sales.
> 
> Does this look like a stuck pixel ? looks a little bigger that the rest of them
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


So did you get any type of response from green sum or did you let him know about your dead pixel?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> So did you get any type of response from green sum or did you let him know about your dead pixel?


Yeah, he asked for pics which I sent this morning. The pixel wouldn't bother so much if I had spent less...what would you do ?

Doesn't the red dot look bigger than an actual pixel ????


----------



## Roikyou

He advertised no dead pixels, I'd hold him to it and not give positive feedback until he does. We paid quite a bit, going into it we know the build quality didn't have all the bells and whistles but no dead pixels, getting a decent overclock is what I expected (if I got 65 overclock I would have complained as it's a 2b overclock edition)


----------



## lee63

Yeah your right, it distinctly said 0 dead pixels allowed. I think it was checked, if you look in the box there is a leaflet from green-sum...it explains that they only check on a black screen, my pixel only shows up on white, blue, yellow, and green...it blends on red. At lease its not in the middle (lower right corner, about 4 inches up)

I just don't want for this to be a big pain in the ass battle, there is no way of telling that the next monitor wont be worse....but you would think this being a high dollar item , it wont happen again.

As for my OC....I'm happy with that. The buzzing I can live with but the faint lines when Oced bother me a little, I guess IPS and 2560x1440 was never meant to higher than 60hz lol.

There is definitely some trade offs for anyone thinking on getting a 2B or a PCB and overclocking...that's for sure.


----------



## JayXMonsta

hope the price goes down soon







man the YAMAKASI 290 IPS PANORAMA 29inch 21:9 WIDE 2560 X 1080 looks amazing.


----------



## mcrbradbury

hey guys, i just got my 2 Catleaps,
I had a question.
Just set them up and on the main screen:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Now, clearly looks like a dead pixel from the picture, but the weird thing is, this actually looks like a dead bug stuck in the glass... It's there no matter what the screen color is or what resolution it is, part of it kinda looks like a wing.
it doesn't really look like its on the actual panel. (this is the tempered glass version)

what do you guys reckon? bad panel or is there some way a bug is stuck in the glass?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcrbradbury*
> 
> hey guys, i just got my 2 Catleaps,
> I had a question.
> Just set them up and on the main screen:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, clearly looks like a dead pixel from the picture, but the weird thing is, this actually looks like a dead bug stuck in the glass... It's there no matter what the screen color is or what resolution it is, part of it kinda looks like a wing.
> it doesn't really look like its on the actual panel. (this is the tempered glass version)
> 
> what do you guys reckon? bad panel or is there some way a bug is stuck in the glass?


Could be anything, doesn't look like a dead pixel to me...I wish I knew what the hell mine pixel issue is, did you pay for perfect pixel?


----------



## AcidNfection

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcrbradbury*
> 
> hey guys, i just got my 2 Catleaps,
> I had a question.
> Just set them up and on the main screen:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now, clearly looks like a dead pixel from the picture, but the weird thing is, this actually looks like a dead bug stuck in the glass... It's there no matter what the screen color is or what resolution it is, part of it kinda looks like a wing.
> it doesn't really look like its on the actual panel. (this is the tempered glass version)
> 
> what do you guys reckon? bad panel or is there some way a bug is stuck in the glass?


I do recall reading a case on here (not sure which post it was) where there was a dead bug on the glass...assuming you have the model with the protective glass. The glass CAN be removed with a little effort and it can be cleaned. As far as the actual procedure on removing the glass I cannot say. That has been a main problem with the protective glass model...packing dust, bugs...etc. I believe if you do a search on overclock.net you will find what you are looking for.


----------



## AJCxZ0

Competition in the electronics market?! I thought it was all monopolies and cartels fixing display prices.

At 10:00 PST today NewEgg will be selling the Dell UltraSharp U2713HM Black & Silver 27" 8ms (GTG) IPS-Panel HDMI Widescreen LED Monitor for $549.99. Note that this is not the U2711.

See other comments in the thread and NewEgg reviews for opinions on good stand, the fair P-IPS display and not-so-good anti-glare coating, backlight bleed and how it only does 1920x1080 via HDMI.

I won't be buying one since I'm happy with my still-working-perfectly $289.99 Catleap Q270SE LED with its wobbly stand and gorgeous glossy screen purchased from green-sum in June 2012.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Yeah your right, it distinctly said 0 dead pixels allowed. I think it was checked, if you look in the box there is a leaflet from green-sum...it explains that they only check on a black screen, my pixel only shows up on white, blue, yellow, and green...it blends on red. At lease its not in the middle (lower right corner, about 4 inches up)
> 
> I just don't want for this to be a big pain in the ass battle, there is no way of telling that the next monitor wont be worse....but you would think this being a high dollar item , it wont happen again.
> 
> As for my OC....I'm happy with that. The buzzing I can live with but the faint lines when Oced bother me a little, I guess IPS and 2560x1440 was never meant to higher than 60hz lol.
> 
> There is definitely some trade offs for anyone thinking on getting a 2B or a PCB and overclocking...that's for sure.


I've never seen the lines when overclocking. You get them after overclocking to a certain point or anything past 60 hz?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJCxZ0*
> 
> Competition in the electronics market?! I thought it was all monopolies and cartels fixing display prices.
> 
> At 10:00 PST today NewEgg will be selling the Dell UltraSharp U2713HM Black & Silver 27" 8ms (GTG) IPS-Panel HDMI Widescreen LED Monitor for $549.99. Note that this is not the U2711.
> 
> See other comments in the thread and NewEgg reviews for opinions on good stand, the fair P-IPS display and not-so-good anti-glare coating, backlight bleed and how it only does 1920x1080 via HDMI.
> 
> I won't be buying one since I'm happy with my still-working-perfectly $289.99 Catleap Q270SE LED with its wobbly stand and gorgeous glossy screen purchased from green-sum in June 2012.


8ms GTG, I bet you would end up seeing tearing on that one. The "H" model is the newer one at 6ms GTG with usb 3.0. (not saying that's going to be that much better) But I'm sure it's great in a professional atmosphere.

I had the u3011 for about a month and returned it, the tearing was so bad. But that's just my opinion.


----------



## lee63

Here is a better pic of whatever it is, its sure not a bad pixel...think I'm going to keep it as the price just jumped to $1449








Here is the link for the ridiculous priced 2B

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473


----------



## lusal

$1,449? Really? At that price I feel that these monitors are not worth the money. This is only my 2 cents and of course your mileage may vary. The interesting thing is that these sellers are merely trying to gauge the demand and just see how far they can push the price to make more profit. Simple supply-and-demand economics at play.

I would *love* to know how many DONGS these cost in their native land of South Korea just to see how much of a profit we're giving to the middle men.

In retrospect, you're better off buying a regular non-2B pixel perfect version and purchasing the overclockable 2B PCB's from Overlord Computers for $209.99.


----------



## Raptor_Jesus

I bought A Q270 from Green-Sum in June 2012 for like $300. It's a shame to see them so expensive now...


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Here is a better pic of whatever it is, its sure not a bad pixel...think I'm going to keep it as the price just jumped to $1449
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link for the ridiculous priced 2B
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473


Did he offer you a replacement or refund or what was his response to the pixel?

What we paid was pushing the limits, no way would I pay 1450 for the same monitor (close to twice what we paid).

Let him sit on the product for another 6 months and he'll realize he'll never get that out of those monitors. If the monitors have the build quality of the dell u3014 and the performance of these monitors, flawless, no dead pixels, etc. I'd pay the 1450 but not at this build quality and lack of options.


----------



## eternal7trance

Yea it sucks that they went so far up in price now.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Did he offer you a replacement or refund or what was his response to the pixel?
> 
> What we paid was pushing the limits, no way would I pay 1450 for the same monitor (close to twice what we paid).
> 
> Let him sit on the product for another 6 months and he'll realize he'll never get that out of those monitors. If the monitors have the build quality of the dell u3014 and the performance of these monitors, flawless, no dead pixels, etc. I'd pay the 1450 but not at this build quality and lack of options.


This is was his reply
Quote:


> Hello, this is Green-Sum, the eBay seller.
> First of all, we are deeply sorry for your inconvenience. We will make our best efforts to support you.
> 
> We collect messages once a day, and reply them. In addition, there is time difference, we cannot communicate with customers in real time, so you might feel a little delay. Sorry about that.
> 
> We checked the pictures. If the item is defective in its manufacturing process, we will definitely either exchange or issue a refund. However, as you know, the item is facing short supply, so the exchanging might take some amount of time. If you are fine with it, we can take exchanging process. We know that you do not want to wait for long time, but please understand that the model is not produced in large amounts by the manufacturer.
> 
> Or, if you accept, we could issue $40 partial amount to compensate the dead pixels.
> 
> Please let us know if you have additional questions or issue. Again, sorry for your inconvenience.
> Thank you.
> 
> Best regards,
> Green-Sum
> 
> - green-sum


I responded saying I wanted a full refund or $100. I hope he goes for the 100, now I know its not a pixel issue (maybe dust or a speck of whatever) I kinda want to keep it.


----------



## Roikyou

that's a tough one, would he let you use the defective till the replacement is available? (funny he has the ones at 1450 but can't swap you for one of those, they're the same model) 40 doesn't seem like enough to me either for one that he confirms is defective, 100 is closer. Keep us up to date, I'd like to know how it goes.

(part of me is curious about the lines you are seeing when you overclock also as I don't see them on mine)


----------



## lusal

Let's see:

_*2560x1440 resolution = 3,686,400 pixels
You paid roughly $800 USD or so for the monitor

Your net refund equates to approximately two tenths of 1 cent.

Good day, Citizen. Thank you for your patronage.*_

In all seriousness, though - I hope this gets resolved for you in the way that makes you most happy. I'm dealing with customer support with AccessoriesWhole and it's kind of nerve wracking. It's been a month of back and forth with no resolution as of yet. I'm confident, but growing impatient.


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> that's a tough one, would he let you use the defective till the replacement is available? (funny he has the ones at 1450 but can't swap you for one of those, they're the same model) 40 doesn't seem like enough to me either for one that he confirms is defective, 100 is closer. Keep us up to date, I'd like to know how it goes.
> 
> (part of me is curious about the lines you are seeing when you overclock also as I don't see them on mine)


They are called scan lines, you really have to look close to see them. They are more visible on a light image like gray or white...I have 20/20 so I see them pretty well, maybe its a non issue with yours though.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *curlyp*
> 
> *De-Bezeling Yamakasi Catleaps*
> 
> Well, I finally de-bezeled my Yamakasi Catleaps. Wow! Does it look so much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am still debating if I should cover the silver lining with black electric tape or leave it. What do you think?
> 
> Also, if you want to see more pictures, check out my build log in my signature.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Here is what it use to look like:*


hmm i have the same mount and i think i wanna do this wonder how you attached the wood on.. it looks great tho btw


----------



## JayXMonsta

I just saw that the Q270 Multi White is down to $420 which is like about $130 cheaper then it was a few days ago, I think I'm gonna buy it tonite since I can afford $420


----------



## JayXMonsta

I have a HD 6870 in my desktop and a GT 630 in my laptop and I'm gonna try and put 1440p over the HDMI in theory it should work will update you guys on how that works.


----------



## JayXMonsta

If it doesn't I'll just have to buy another Mini DP to Dual Link DVI convertor. Speaking of those how are everyones Mini DP to Dual Link DVI convertor working? My monoprice model has broken twice







does anyone know of a better brand? or do I just keep getting bad ones?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> I have a HD 6870 in my desktop and a GT 630 in my laptop and I'm gonna try and put 1440p over the HDMI in theory it should work will update you guys on how that works.


It will not work over hdmi


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> If it doesn't I'll just have to buy another Mini DP to Dual Link DVI convertor. Speaking of those how are everyones Mini DP to Dual Link DVI convertor working? My monoprice model has broken twice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> does anyone know of a better brand? or do I just keep getting bad ones?


DisplayPort to Dual link DVI converters (or miniDisplayPort to Dual Link DVI converters) are pretty bad in general. Avoid if possible. Native DisplayPort monitors and native DisplayPort laptops for the win.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> It will not work over hdmi


why? it should HDMI 1.3 supports 2560x1440 at 60HZ..


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> DisplayPort to Dual link DVI converters (or miniDisplayPort to Dual Link DVI converters) are pretty bad in general. Avoid if possible. Native DisplayPort monitors and native DisplayPort laptops for the win.


wish these had native displayports


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> why? it should HDMI 1.3 supports 2560x1440 at 60HZ..


Your laptop might not do it.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Your laptop might not do it.


yeah I know worth a shot.. the video card may not do it to but it's worth a shot if it doesn't work ill just get a convertor it wont be the end of the world


----------



## mcrbradbury

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Could be anything, doesn't look like a dead pixel to me...I wish I knew what the hell mine pixel issue is, did you pay for perfect pixel?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> I do recall reading a case on here (not sure which post it was) where there was a dead bug on the glass...assuming you have the model with the protective glass. The glass CAN be removed with a little effort and it can be cleaned. As far as the actual procedure on removing the glass I cannot say. That has been a main problem with the protective glass model...packing dust, bugs...etc. I believe if you do a search on overclock.net you will find what you are looking for.


No, no perfect pixel (for the price of one perfect pixel, i got both of these), i would have just bought an alternative brand.

An interesting thing: I turned the panels off, and put a super bright light near the screen, and it looks like it is, indeed, a white dead bug in there. what i thought was another separate dead pixel down further (which is wasn't concerned about really) is also some white debris stuck to the panel behind the glass. Very strange








Looks like apart from that the panels are perfect.

I will look around to see if i can find a way to take the glass off... thanks


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mcrbradbury*
> 
> No, no perfect pixel (for the price of one perfect pixel, i got both of these), i would have just bought an alternative brand.
> 
> An interesting thing: I turned the panels off, and put a super bright light near the screen, and it looks like it is, indeed, a white dead bug in there. what i thought was another separate dead pixel down further (which is wasn't concerned about really) is also some white debris stuck to the panel behind the glass. Very strange
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Looks like apart from that the panels are perfect.
> 
> I will look around to see if i can find a way to take the glass off... thanks


If you find a way post it here, I would love to fix my issue..not sure if I have the balls to take it apart though.


----------



## lee63

These timings work for 120hz for me.....and the deliner from ToastX perfectly on the desktop.

The timings show auto once you set and apply.

http://i.imgur.com/wjsMoZs.png

EDIT : these timings are not working after all, I get a weird blue line in my gmail...but only gmail


----------



## Doomtomb

Did this monitor run out of supply? Why is the price so much higher now on ebay?


----------



## BoredErica

DOoomtomb, supply and demand...
mcrbradbury: This problem has been observed before. I think there was a guide for this for Shimian on this forum


----------



## lee63

The update today from Greensum was $60, of course I will not accept it. Its a refund or replacement or $100...nothing less.

My final OC is 118hz, probably could go higher but I'm just tired of messing with it


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> yeah I know worth a shot.. the video card may not do it to but it's worth a shot if it doesn't work ill just get a convertor it wont be the end of the world


It won't work, there's no consumer monitor that can do 1440p over hdmi without editing the EDID and/or refresh rates, at least to my knowledge


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> yeah I know worth a shot.. the video card may not do it to but it's worth a shot if it doesn't work ill just get a convertor it wont be the end of the world


I don't think you understand. It's not a problem with the video card, it's a potential problem with the HDMI port. And if it is, then no converter will ever do it properly.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> It won't work, there's no consumer monitor that can do 1440p over hdmi without editing the EDID and/or refresh rates, at least to my knowledge


In theory it should work.. like HDMI 1.3 can carry 1440p fine and the laptop has a HDMI 1.3 port and the monitor does to. We will see.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> In theory it should work.. like HDMI 1.3 can carry 1440p fine and the laptop has a HDMI 1.3 port and the monitor does to. We will see.


You know for certain that your laptop has HDMI 1.3?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> I don't think you understand. It's not a problem with the video card, it's a potential problem with the HDMI port. And if it is, then no converter will ever do it properly.


I do understand. And it would have to be something to do with some kind of software restriction because in theory HDMI 1.3 can handle the bandwidth. Also I was talking about Display Port to DVI Dual Link Convertor like I said on the last page


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You know for certain that your laptop has HDMI 1.3?


It says it does on the box that it came in so hopefully. Again I'm hoping it will but if it doesn't I will just get a MDP to DVI Dual Link Convertor.


----------



## lee63

Just an update: greensum has offered a full refund.


----------



## DanRyan23

I bought a Perfect Pixel version from korexmall and noticed last night it has a small grey spot towards the center of the screen, it shows up on a white or light colored background

grrrrr, this kind of thing drives me nuts and I will always notice it which is why I paid extra for a Perfect Pixel









is there any way to fix/repair it?

I am going to contact them and see if I can get at least a partial refund after paying extra money for nothing


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> It says it does on the box that it came in so hopefully. Again I'm hoping it will but if it doesn't I will just get a MDP to DVI Dual Link Convertor.


Do you think you're the first person to try? It will not work


----------



## FrankoNL

Hello all!

I am interested in getting an 1440p screen. And yamakasi screens seem very nice. But how can i order one of them? And what would be the shipping cost to Europe?


----------



## lusal

The best advice I can give you is to look on eBay for these monitors - specifically with the seller _AccessoriesWhole_.


----------



## DanRyan23

Any tips on dealing with a dead/stuck pixel?

I am pretty OCD about this kind of thing and it shows up as a grey spot on a white background, close to the middle of my monitor where its highly noticable.

Any help would be appreciated I would love to have it fixed

I purchased a "Perfect Pixel" version and this is what I get


----------



## m98custom1212

^send it back?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanRyan23*
> 
> Any tips on dealing with a dead/stuck pixel?
> 
> I am pretty OCD about this kind of thing and it shows up as a grey spot on a white background, close to the middle of my monitor where its highly noticable.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated I would love to have it fixed
> 
> I purchased a "Perfect Pixel" version and this is what I get


Contact the seller and ask for an exchange, I hope you didn't leave feedback yet.

There is a chance that its not a pixel issue and just dust or debris...grey is an odd color.


----------



## DanRyan23

I dont think it is dust or debris, I will see if I can take a picture of it when I get home, it is more like a small gray blotch which is mostly visible on a white or light colored background


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Just an update: greensum has offered a full refund.


Did you have to pay for shipping? Guess I got luck and still no issues with mine...I picked mine up on Feb 28th, delivered on Mar 6th and running good for the last few weeks. Hopefully it stays that way.


----------



## DanRyan23

20130329_181831.jpg 1660k .jpg file


20130329_181850.jpg 2991k .jpg file


20130329_181855.jpg 2731k .jpg file


The pictures are kind of blurry so they don't bring it out very well, but it is a small grey blotch towards the middle-left side of the monitor. It shows up well in white or light colored backgrounds and it is driving me crazy because it is towards the middle of the screen. I go to a lot of webpages with grey backgrounds so I don't know if its a stuck area, dead pixel, or dust.

If anyone has any tips/advice/ways of fixing or repairing it please let me know, I would love to get this monitor flawless again especially since I paid extra for a "Perfect Pixel"

I have already taken the panel apart to remove the stand and wall mount it, so if you think it is dust (not sure it is) let me know if there is a way to remove it. Like I said though, I am not sure if it is dust or not.

Any help would be appreciated!


----------



## senna89

Yamakasi catleap is simile to the Achieva Shimian as Ghosting effect ? Or the Yamakasi is much faster ?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanRyan23*
> 
> 20130329_181831.jpg 1660k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 20130329_181850.jpg 2991k .jpg file
> 
> 
> 20130329_181855.jpg 2731k .jpg file
> 
> 
> The pictures are kind of blurry so they don't bring it out very well, but it is a small grey blotch towards the middle-left side of the monitor. It shows up well in white or light colored backgrounds and it is driving me crazy because it is towards the middle of the screen. I go to a lot of webpages with grey backgrounds so I don't know if its a stuck area, dead pixel, or dust.
> 
> If anyone has any tips/advice/ways of fixing or repairing it please let me know, I would love to get this monitor flawless again especially since I paid extra for a "Perfect Pixel"
> 
> I have already taken the panel apart to remove the stand and wall mount it, so if you think it is dust (not sure it is) let me know if there is a way to remove it. Like I said though, I am not sure if it is dust or not.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!


I have no idea how to get behind that glass.


----------



## DanRyan23

Do you think it is dust?


----------



## ivoryg37

anyone here know what the catleap brightness and contrast is stock? I was messing with it and forgot what the stock setting was lol. I currently have it at 64 brightness and 88 contrast.


----------



## KnightVII

Dirt. Probably a tiny oil. Another pic from you I saw many pink balls.


----------



## JayXMonsta

man.. dreamseller just screwed me over pretty badly they held my money for a week and i thought i was getting my monitor soon and then they email me and said they never shipped my item because there out of stock but they still have the item for sale they just increased the price.

seems to me like there just trying to get more money for there monitors because the market just rose $100.. i wish i bought it from someone else really bad business practices by them.. smh

should i just say okay? and take the refund or what? this is pretty messed up.. hmm


----------



## JayXMonsta

the fact they waited a week to.. like really


----------



## JayXMonsta

I'm gonna see what I can do.. Like I don't see why I have to lose money because they didn't change the price on there item quick enough.. I honestly would have taken the refund to if it didn't take them a week to respond.


----------



## unkuser

Can somebody measure the diameter of the rear speaker?

I want to replace the speakers with something better. They don't have to be great, but I bet any of the replacement speakers will be better than the built-in stuff.

http://www.parts-express.com/cat/midrange-midbass-full-range-speakers/16?kg=497|3910,3911


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DanRyan23*
> 
> Do you think it is dust?


I know its not a pixel issue, could be any kind of debris.

Shipped my Catleap back to grrensum today, for a FULL REFUND.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> I know its not a pixel issue, could be any kind of debris.
> 
> Shipped my Catleap back to greensum today, for a FULL REFUND.


Don't mean to be so persistent, curious about they're business practice since I've got a monitor from them and any possible issues in the future, I could be seeing the same, did you end up footin the bill for shipping back or did they take care of it?


----------



## lusal

Just to give you an idea of what AccessoriesWhole offered me in regards to warranty service:

He told me that I am responsible for return shipping *and* shipping from them back to me. He asked me to send back the whole panel! I balked at that idea and told him that I'd send him the OSD, T-Con and Main LED PCB's. This came to $52 USD via USPS.

A lot of these sellers have their own standards of warranty service. I'd venture to say that you can negotiate different terms based on the situation and purchase price of your panel. I'm going to try to get them to cover the shipping costs of the replacement PCB's back to me. We'll see.

I will say this - it's been about a month of e-mailing their technical support and I still don't have a working monitor. It may have been more worth my time and trouble to just buy replacement PCB's from Overlord Computers and get the extra benefit of overclocking the display to 90Hz +.


----------



## DanRyan23

Has anyone taken the front glass off to clean dust/debris behind it? Not talking about the tempered glass version


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Don't mean to be so persistent, curious about they're business practice since I've got a monitor from them and any possible issues in the future, I could be seeing the same, did you end up footin the bill for shipping back or did they take care of it?


Its been pretty good, they have emailed me daily...they set up the return shipment and pick up at their expense , I have no complaints so far.

I will be buying an Overlord model as pre orders are open. I just don't want to deal with the whole Korean thing...though I'm only a little debris away from a perfect monitor.


----------



## mobilize1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> I'm gonna see what I can do.. Like I don't see why I have to lose money because they didn't change the price on there item quick enough.. I honestly would have taken the refund to if it didn't take them a week to respond.


Take the refund and buy from monoprice. All of the the sellers of these monitors are shady, some people have good experiences but they didn't get a bad monitor and then lied to for 45 days while answering asinine questions.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Its been pretty good, they have emailed me daily...they set up the return shipment and pick up at their expense , I have no complaints so far.
> 
> I will be buying an Overlord model as pre orders are open. I just don't want to deal with the whole Korean thing...though I'm only a little debris away from a perfect monitor.


Glad to hear that he footed the bill for the return shipping, should be that way since he sold you a "perfect pixel" monitor. What I've read, people like Overlord, cheaper, not a pixel perfect but quite a bit cheaper. Hope that goes better for you. 120 was the other group I would consider for the same monitor.

You would think they would take a little time to make sure they're not shipping a flawed monitor across seas as I thought they tested before they shipped....


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roikyou*
> 
> Glad to hear that he footed the bill for the return shipping, should be that way since he sold you a "perfect pixel" monitor. What I've read, people like Overlord, cheaper, not a pixel perfect but quite a bit cheaper. Hope that goes better for you. 120 was the other group I would consider for the same monitor.
> 
> You would think they would take a little time to make sure they're not shipping a flawed monitor across seas as I thought they tested before they shipped....


I think they do you test but only on a black screen, did you get a leaflet in yours from greensum.


----------



## Roikyou

I don't remember seeing it but doesn't mean it's not still in the box. I'll have to take a look.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mobilize1*
> 
> Take the refund and buy from monoprice. All of the the sellers of these monitors are shady, some people have good experiences but they didn't get a bad monitor and then lied to for 45 days while answering asinine questions.


I took the refund and bought from korexmall they were actually cheaper and there seller rating was a lot higher. And I wish monoprice had sold monitors back when I got my first two I would have gotten all 3 from them.. :/ I already have two catleaps though so if I buy another brand it will look off sadly.

And yeah these sellers are pretty shady.. I see what dreamseller did he took the money waited a week then told me he wasn't gonna send it because the value of them went up because the Q270 are harder to get now and that all he can do is give me a refund and then I would have to pay extra because he raised the price..
Which is bs because I paid for it at that price.. well I'm glad korexmall listed them for less hopefully it all works out with them.


----------



## Niko-Time

You should report that seller to eBay! They aren't allowed to do that.


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Niko-Time*
> 
> You should report that seller to eBay! They aren't allowed to do that.


I fully agree, you made an agreement and he broke that agreement, don't let this seller get away with that.


----------



## lusal

Update for absolution and closure:

I experienced the dreaded "fading to black" issue with my Q270 Multi after 7 months of use. I was really gutted and despondent when I found out that it was a hardware failure on one of the PCBs. With very little hope, I contacted AccessoriesWhole to see what could be done.

After 1 month of back and forth with excellent communication, I removed and shipped the Main LED PCB, the Timing Controller (T-CON) PCB and the on-screen display PCB at my expense. They, in turn, sent them to Yamakasi for warranty fulfillment. Yamakasi sent 3 newer revision PCBs to AccessoriesWhole and they then FEDEXed them to me in 2 days at their expense. The PCB's were newer and had brand new cabling and connectors - spares were sent as well!

After replacing all of the PCBs, the monitor is working like a champion again! My confidence has waned in the overall quality of the monitor, but AccessoriesWhole has really shown why they're the number 1 seller of these panels. They replied daily to my e-mails and split the costs of shipping - which I feel is totally fair and equitable.

You really can do no better than these guys. They stood behind the warranty and amicably solved my problem.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lusal*
> 
> Update for absolution and closure:
> 
> I experienced the dreaded "fading to black" issue with my Q270 Multi after 7 months of use. I was really gutted and despondent when I found out that it was a hardware failure on one of the PCBs. With very little hope, I contacted AccessoriesWhole to see what could be done.
> 
> After 1 month of back and forth with excellent communication, I removed and shipped the Main LED PCB, the Timing Controller (T-CON) PCB and the on-screen display PCB at my expense. They, in turn, sent them to Yamakasi for warranty fulfillment. Yamakasi sent 3 newer revision PCBs to AccessoriesWhole and they then FEDEXed them to me in 2 days at their expense. The PCB's were newer and had brand new cabling and connectors - spares were sent as well!
> 
> After replacing all of the PCBs, the monitor is working like a champion again! My confidence has waned in the overall quality of the monitor, but AccessoriesWhole has really shown why they're the number 1 seller of these panels. They replied daily to my e-mails and split the costs of shipping - which I feel is totally fair and equitable.
> 
> You really can do no better than these guys. They stood behind the warranty and amicably solved my problem.


This is excellent to hear. I didn't buy from them but it is nice to see that some of these sellers really back their product. I bought from BCC and have a squaretrade warranty so I feel safe, but if the oppertunity to purchase another one of these comes along it's nice to hear certain sellers step up.


----------



## lee63

Just update on my 2B Catleap from green-sum, I received a full refund...he's a good seller just wish his monitors were a little cheaper.

I think I will pre order an Overlord this weekend....I have a long wait though.


----------



## idaveop

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lusal*
> 
> Update for absolution and closure:
> 
> I experienced the dreaded "fading to black" issue with my Q270 Multi after 7 months of use. I was really gutted and despondent when I found out that it was a hardware failure on one of the PCBs. With very little hope, I contacted AccessoriesWhole to see what could be done.
> 
> After 1 month of back and forth with excellent communication, I removed and shipped the Main LED PCB, the Timing Controller (T-CON) PCB and the on-screen display PCB at my expense. They, in turn, sent them to Yamakasi for warranty fulfillment. Yamakasi sent 3 newer revision PCBs to AccessoriesWhole and they then FEDEXed them to me in 2 days at their expense. The PCB's were newer and had brand new cabling and connectors - spares were sent as well!
> 
> After replacing all of the PCBs, the monitor is working like a champion again! My confidence has waned in the overall quality of the monitor, but AccessoriesWhole has really shown why they're the number 1 seller of these panels. They replied daily to my e-mails and split the costs of shipping - which I feel is totally fair and equitable.
> 
> You really can do no better than these guys. They stood behind the warranty and amicably solved my problem.


Is there any information about the model or make of the boards in the boxes you received? I have a perfect panel, but the video connector on the board/cable seems to have gone out, and I need to buy another. I really need someone who got a bad panel but good internals that wants to sell them, I know it's going to be almost impossible to find the board.


----------



## Cyber Locc

how the hell do you buy these things i want to the site is all in japanese which i dont know,


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cyberlocc*
> 
> how the hell do you buy these things i want to the site is all in japanese which i dont know,


Search for the brand and model number you want on eBay.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Monitor has been in customs for a while :/ hope it doesn't take a few weeks..


----------



## Ninjaman999

Can somebody please help me find a cheap replacement Power brick for my Catleap Q270? :3
The brick I was using died like 20 minutes ago and the cheapest I've been able to find is 60 bucks and I don't have that kinda money at the moment








So yeah, any help would be great, Please and Thank You


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninjaman999*
> 
> Can somebody please help me find a cheap replacement Power brick for my Catleap Q270? :3
> The brick I was using died like 20 minutes ago and the cheapest I've been able to find is 60 bucks and I don't have that kinda money at the moment
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So yeah, any help would be great, Please and Thank You


Amazon has it for $45 or you can find the exact same power adapter on ebay for $25.

http://www.amazon.com/Adapter-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-Charger/dp/B00BJJHQ1C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1365426129&sr=8-1&keywords=efl-2202w+adapter


----------



## Ninjaman999

YOU, are a sexy panda. Thanks bro








I jumped ship and got this one. Hopefully it works and all








http://www.ebay.com/itm/271063008038?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
Btw, do you think there is a chance the Monitor got messed up along with the brick?








I only heard a sound from the brick and smelled the burning from the side that connects to the outlet ._. "Gulp"


----------



## pompss

After only one month my monitor backlights start blicking every second.
Most of the people spoke good about this monitor but in my life i will never buy this crappy korean monitor or unknow brand again
Maybe some knows how to fix it??
Any help is welcome
I made a video here is the link






i tested with my xbox360 connect with hdmi and after a while start blicking too.its not the dvi cable.
Now i use another monitor from asus 24" with the same cable , same video card and same resolution. No problems.
Thanks for your help i search on google but no repair center here .
Shipping back to korea cost me around 50-100 bucks. Too expansive.
Know i now that its better to buy good brands name like samsung or dell.
I pay 450 for this damn monitor and become defective only after only 1 months?
My advise to everyone is to not buy this monitor for 450. Maybe for 250 but no more then 300.

maybe i can fix it here in US.
if anyone have some knowledge in monitor repair or about this issue please contact me.
Looks like a power problem maybe the charger is messed up


----------



## JayXMonsta

2560x1440 works amazingly over HDMI with the multi monitors not sure why so many of yall were telling me there was no way it would work


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> 2560x1440 works amazingly over HDMI with the multi monitors not sure why so many of yall were telling me there was no way it would work


Because the vast majority of HDMI setups cannot run 2560x1440.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Because the vast majority of HDMI setups cannot run 2560x1440.


Well like I was saying I knew my HDMI port supported it.. but I did have to force it.


----------



## MrFx2u

Hi peeps

i just placed an order on a 300 sparta multi. will add pics once i get it


----------



## WorldExclusive

Does anyone know if this can display two Q270s?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127705

It's a dual DVI-D card. On eBay, they listed nV cards down to the Geforce 220, but this is a Geforce 210. Trying to make sure before I make the purchase.
I need a backup card because the last time I tried to swap out my video cards, I had to immediately buy another one because I forgot the monitor couldn't run on DVI-S.


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFx2u*
> 
> Hi peeps
> 
> i just placed an order on a 300 sparta multi. will add pics once i get it


From where? Yamakasi USA?


----------



## MrFx2u

Fro
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TangoDown332*
> 
> From where? Yamakasi USA?


From ebay its coming from korea


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFx2u*
> 
> Fro
> From ebay its coming from korea


How much did it run you?


----------



## jjpctech

I managed to snag one of these for £100!

The seller had an issue with the display presenting corruption on start-up, but for me it works perfectly.

Amazing Monitor, Such a shame the LED back-light presents a vastly different colour then my Hazro 30"


----------



## Niko-Time

Can't you calibrate them to match?


----------



## Ninjaman999

Panda man reporting in to let you guys know the Power Brick from the link I posted a page before came in and works like a charm and was only 25. I am now a very happy man again. Off to play Warframe and Hawken @[email protected]
Hopefully anyone who comes up with the same Power brick failure as me finds the link I posted and the link the other cool guy posted helpful


----------



## WorldExclusive

It's that time to give back to the forum. I found a solution to the blinking / blanking issue with the Multi Port Catleaps.

My monitor stop blinking by placing a fan behind the monitor to cool the PCB.
The trick is to open it up and remove the IO shield that protects the inputs and PCB. Blow cool air back there and it will work.

This should hold you over until you get the new PCB.
I'm going to remove the IO shield from my other Catleap monitor also just to prolong the lifespan of the PCB.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninjaman999*
> 
> Panda man reporting in to let you guys know the Power Brick from the link I posted a page before came in and works like a charm and was only 25. I am now a very happy man again. Off to play Warframe and Hawken @[email protected]
> Hopefully anyone who comes up with the same Power brick failure as me finds the link I posted and the link the other cool guy posted helpful


Good to know, because who knows when I may need one too.

Edit: In other news my Catleap has officially been working for one year now.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ninjaman999*
> 
> Panda man reporting in to let you guys know the Power Brick from the link I posted a page before came in and works like a charm and was only 25. I am now a very happy man again. Off to play Warframe and Hawken @[email protected]
> Hopefully anyone who comes up with the same Power brick failure as me finds the link I posted and the link the other cool guy posted helpful


I have a power brick that makes like a loud dog whistle noise all the time I think I will be replacing it haha good to know thanks


----------



## Ninjaman999

My monitor is still going after almost 9 months.
Some solid Korean hardware right here


----------



## MrFx2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TangoDown332*
> 
> How much did it run you?


$520 AUD to my door


----------



## MrFx2u

I possibly could get the power bricks made up, all I need is a sample of the original, if I ever get that issue, I know someone in electronic engineering


----------



## killuchen

Anybody know why when I try to run a new game and as soon as the game loads after a black screen my monitor goes black and the light is blinking red? In oder to fix it I have to unplug the power and leave it for like 2 minutes then replug it in order for it to work?

This also happens when I reboot my system or install fresh drivers.... Is this an indicator that my monitor is dying?









Some suggest that I buy a new powerbrick. Any other suggestions?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> Here is a better pic of whatever it is, its sure not a bad pixel...think I'm going to keep it as the price just jumped to $1449
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the link for the ridiculous priced 2B
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-1440p-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/140919957473


Just saw the price went down to 1350, lets see how long he'll sit on these monitors till he drops the price to normal. The new U3014 was just released for 1500 (monitors that might be worth the 1500 that is...)


----------



## MrFx2u

hi

can anyone help me here, totally confused here, im running dual radeon gigabyte 7970, why is it that i can not use dvi output, and i cop a black screen every time. and now all im coping is a badly snowy screen everytime i use hdmi cord,

am i missing something


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrFx2u*
> 
> hi
> 
> can anyone help me here, totally confused here, im running dual radeon gigabyte 7970, why is it that i can not use dvi output, and i cop a black screen every time. and now all im coping is a badly snowy screen everytime i use hdmi cord,
> 
> am i missing something


Does the DVI output work on a normal monitor?

Also it's possible that the cord they gave you with the monitor is bad. Mine was. I had to buy something like this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812816012 to fix it.


----------



## MrFx2u

eternal7trance

thanks for your reply, it came down to a stupid ebay dvi cord, i used the one that came with the yamakasi monitor and fixed the issue, was doing my head in for 2 hours, i thought it was the monitor, i only just got the monitor too,

do these sparta multi usally run super hot, i can feel the heat from it.


----------



## latexyankee

Sorry but i cannot read through this entire thread. How come nobody orders through Yamkasi usa.com? They are about $300 even with free shipping. Is this a bogus site? Also all the talk about power bricks, do you need to order an aftermarket one? Thanks.


----------



## mzg88

Just bought my CATLEAP and I am having some issues, I don't know if it is my video card problem or if it is a DVI cable problem of if the monitor is the problem, the monitor displays everything video/games fine but from time to time it seems like it glitches and tears the image this happens mostly when playing youtube video or when skyping, I have not overclocked anything yet. Has anyone experienced anything like this before? I will upload video and post link soon. Any thoughts on what could be the issue?


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mzg88*
> 
> Just bought my CATLEAP and I am having some issues, I don't know if it is my video card problem or if it is a DVI cable problem of if the monitor is the problem, the monitor displays everything video/games fine but from time to time it seems like it glitches and tears the image this happens mostly when playing youtube video or when skyping, I have not overclocked anything yet. Has anyone experienced anything like this before? I will upload video and post link soon. Any thoughts on what could be the issue?


Disable Hardware accel in flash videos. should fix your problem i think.


----------



## mzg88

Also just visiting a normal site such as this forum or any other site still causes it to cut and tear the image for a few seconds. Could it be my video card? I have a radeon 6800?


----------



## KuuFA

if your dvi is single link you wont get any picture at all.


----------



## mzg88

I was just using a single DVI with it, and thought that it was the problem, So i went and got a dual link dvi and same thing happens, still tears / cuts the image. its very similar to artifacts type of a thing.


----------



## KuuFA

Yea like I said disable hardware accel and see if that helps.


----------



## mzg88

okay, I am trying to figure out how to disable the hardware accel right now..


----------



## KuuFA

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mzg88*
> 
> okay, I am trying to figure out how to disable the hardware accel right now..


Ok well upon reading your edits. What are the rest of the components on your computer? also are you on the latest drivers?


----------



## mzg88

alright, so I am running windows 8, amd II x6 , 4gb ram and hd radeon 6800, directx 11... I have disabled what I think was hardware accel in internet exploler but it still seems to be doing the same thing.


----------



## KuuFA

what are your drivers version for you gpu?


----------



## dejeckt

New to the forums, always had interest in these monitors but never seem to be in a rush to get a new monitor.

However, in couple of weeks I'll be heading to S. Korea (specifically Busan area). Are these still priced at $300 range in Korea? Which stores carry them? Do they offer a 30 in version?

Apologies for all these questions straight off my first post, but any help would be appreciated (tried searching the thread before joining, and couldn't seem to find a post that lists the actual brick and mortar stores that carries these over at Korea).

edit*
According this snippet of a review I found
보급형 27인치 모니터와 비교하면 40만 원 후반대의 가격이 좀 쎄다고 생각할 수 있겠으나, 파루자 보정 기술과 PIP 기능은 다른 모니터에서 볼 수 없는 야마카시 Q271 레티나 Ver.1만의 특징입니다.
It seems to be about $400 (40 mill won) in Korea, but this review is 6 months ago. No mention where he/she made the purchase.

edit2*
Completely different from my post, but found a computer case that Yamakasi also makes. Might be interesting for iphone users. http://gigglehd.com/zbxe/index.php?mid=mainreview&document_srl=9256912


----------



## mzg88

Amd, Radeon HD 6800 serier,

Driver Packaging Version IS 12.10.17-130320a-154717e-ati
Catalyst Version 13.3
2d Driver Version is 8.01.01.1295
Direct 3d v is 9.14.10.0968
openGl is 6.14.10.12173

Do you think that its the gpu that is bad or do you think that it could be the monitor ?


----------



## mzg88

Here is a link to what my monitor does...


----------



## latexyankee

Anyone order from yamakasiusa.com?


----------



## lee63

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Anyone order from yamakasiusa.com?


No, but the price is pretty good. I wonder if they really ship from the US ?

Its the SE model, so you should be able to switch out PCB's with an Overlord PCB....thats if you want to OC of course.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mzg88*
> 
> Here is a link to what my monitor does...


Looks like your gpu to me.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mzg88*
> 
> I was just using a single DVI with it, and thought that it was the problem, So i went and got a dual link dvi and same thing happens, still tears / cuts the image. its very similar to artifacts type of a thing.


Have you tried switching the DVI port that you're using on your video card?


----------



## Loyrl

Just checking in, my catleap is still chugging along with out any issues, think it has been a year now. Bought a second one that is at 120hz about 6 months ago and haven't had any issues with that one either. Both have no stuck pixels or any yellow marks.


----------



## mzg88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Have you tried switching the DVI port that you're using on your video card?


I have connected it to the second dvi port however I did not get it to work, not sure if I need to change display settings or if the dvi port is bad.


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Anyone order from yamakasiusa.com?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lee63*
> 
> No, but the price is pretty good. I wonder if they really ship from the US ?
> 
> Its the SE model, so you should be able to switch out PCB's with an Overlord PCB....thats if you want to OC of course.


I'm all set to order tomorrow but I can't find a single person who has ordered from them. I'm looking at the 2703 cause I want the glass, are those switchable as well? And I really dont know about the power solution, they say they come with 110 adapter, some say to use it, some say not to, some say I should order a different brick altogether. Is there a general rule of thumb on these things? I'd really appreciate it, I can contribute more once I gets my screen.

They have next day shipping to the US, or so it states, the name of the site is yamakasiusa.com after all.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> I'm all set to order tomorrow but I can't find a single person who has ordered from them. I'm looking at the 2703 cause I want the glass, are those switchable as well? And I really dont know about the power solution, they say they come with 110 adapter, some say to use it, some say not to, some say I should order a different brick altogether. Is there a general rule of thumb on these things? I'd really appreciate it, I can contribute more once I gets my screen.
> 
> They have next day shipping to the US, or so it states, the name of the site is yamakasiusa.com after all.


Not sure on the 110v adaptor it will either work or go bang pretty quickly, but big cloth craft said if my power supply ever went to buy this replacement-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230617906460?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

The price from that site is only £5-10 cheaper than what i paid before xmas on ebay







.


----------



## OneGun

Hey guys i need a new monitor to keep up with my new 7950 boost crossfire setup.I spent so much money on my computer but yet i have a 60hz monitor but at least its 27inch..Can you guys recommend a monitor for me please?I was trying to figure out if i wanted a 120hz or a 1440p.


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Not sure on the 110v adaptor it will either work or go bang pretty quickly, but big cloth craft said if my power supply ever went to buy this replacement-
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/230617906460?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
> 
> The price from that site is only £5-10 cheaper than what i paid before xmas on ebay
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Well I ordered a 2703 this morning, $298 shipped, will update ya'll on the shipping process and quality, I guess I'm the guinea pig.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Well I ordered a 2703 this morning, $298 shipped, will update ya'll on the shipping process and quality, I guess I'm the guinea pig.


Please let me know how that goes as i want one from that site also..Is that the one with glossy screen?


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Please let me know how that goes as i want one from that site also..Is that the one with glossy screen?


It is, I couldn't find jack for reviews on the site or the model in general. I took a leap, (a catleap...you see what I did there) and we'll see how it goes, paypal is still holding the payment. But I'll be sure to update whatever progress ensues. I might just order that extra/better power brick tomorrow for the hell of it.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> It is, I couldn't find jack for reviews on the site or the model in general. I took a leap, (a catleap...you see what I did there) and we'll see how it goes, paypal is still holding the payment. But I'll be sure to update whatever progress ensues. I might just order that extra/better power brick tomorrow for the hell of it.


Nice, im pretty sure its the same model as mine.
The standard power supply seems fine, the screen only draws around 60 watts and its a big power supply for only 60watts ha.
You just want to hope you get a pretty good panel.
I bought 3, and this one i kept has no dead pixels at all, the other one had 2 or so, but the third had maybe 10-12 dotted around the screen.
I think because i ordered 2 together for a better price they sent me one lower grade one ha.


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dejeckt*
> 
> New to the forums, always had interest in these monitors but never seem to be in a rush to get a new monitor.
> 
> However, in couple of weeks I'll be heading to S. Korea (specifically Busan area). Are these still priced at $300 range in Korea? Which stores carry them? Do they offer a 30 in version?
> 
> Apologies for all these questions straight off my first post, but any help would be appreciated (tried searching the thread before joining, and couldn't seem to find a post that lists the actual brick and mortar stores that carries these over at Korea).
> 
> edit*
> According this snippet of a review I found
> 보급형 27인치 모니터와 비교하면 40만 원 후반대의 가격이 좀 쎄다고 생각할 수 있겠으나, 파루자 보정 기술과 PIP 기능은 다른 모니터에서 볼 수 없는 야마카시 Q271 레티나 Ver.1만의 특징입니다.
> It seems to be about $400 (40 mill won) in Korea, but this review is 6 months ago. No mention where he/she made the purchase.
> 
> edit2*
> Completely different from my post, but found a computer case that Yamakasi also makes. Might be interesting for iphone users. http://gigglehd.com/zbxe/index.php?mid=mainreview&document_srl=9256912


Have fun in Busan by the way!! I did when I was stationed in the ROK. Anyway, they should be about the same in price there as they are, they are typically good on matching their online offers in person. Though I say this from the experience of buying other parts and components most of which i bought from small shops recommended to me by friends I played with in PC bangs, though not monitors so take it as you will, as for the 30 in models the Sparta Multi is a 30 incher offered by Yamakasi, so you could take a look into that. Look around and ask, that is what I did, I know its kind of vague to say but that's how I got around.


----------



## unkuser

The speakers make a popping sound when the monitor is turned on and off. Anybody have this problem?

I know the speakers are garbage, but's better than nothing.


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> It is, I couldn't find jack for reviews on the site or the model in general. I took a leap, (a catleap...you see what I did there) and we'll see how it goes, paypal is still holding the payment. But I'll be sure to update whatever progress ensues. I might just order that extra/better power brick tomorrow for the hell of it.


Arrived yet?


----------



## latexyankee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Arrived yet?


Nope it looks to be a sham. Paypal says seller will not or cannot accept payment, they will not respond to my email. Payment and order status has been processing for 4 business days.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latexyankee*
> 
> Nope it looks to be a sham. Paypal says seller will not or cannot accept payment, they will not respond to my email. Payment and order status has been processing for 4 business days.


Freaking jerks...lol


----------



## latexyankee

FYI I had the payment cancelled and the monoprice was in stock. 1 year warranty ships from Cali with local customer service. Better jump on it, they sell out daily.


----------



## OneGun

What site did you buy the monoprice on?Was it Monoprice.com?I can pick it up or i get overnight delivery for $9


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dejeckt*
> 
> New to the forums, always had interest in these monitors but never seem to be in a rush to get a new monitor.
> 
> However, in couple of weeks I'll be heading to S. Korea (specifically Busan area). Are these still priced at $300 range in Korea? Which stores carry them? Do they offer a 30 in version?
> 
> Apologies for all these questions straight off my first post, but any help would be appreciated (tried searching the thread before joining, and couldn't seem to find a post that lists the actual brick and mortar stores that carries these over at Korea).
> 
> edit*
> According this snippet of a review I found
> 보급형 27인치 모니터와 비교하면 40만 원 후반대의 가격이 좀 쎄다고 생각할 수 있겠으나, 파루자 보정 기술과 PIP 기능은 다른 모니터에서 볼 수 없는 야마카시 Q271 레티나 Ver.1만의 특징입니다.
> It seems to be about $400 (40 mill won) in Korea, but this review is 6 months ago. No mention where he/she made the purchase.
> 
> edit2*
> Completely different from my post, but found a computer case that Yamakasi also makes. Might be interesting for iphone users. http://gigglehd.com/zbxe/index.php?mid=mainreview&document_srl=9256912


I live in Busan, been here for about 6 years, there are two main computer markets. You can get these online for about 300,000w but at the markets here you will pay a bit more. It's been a while since I have looked at the price but maybe 325-350,000w? Even if you are here for only a short time you can order one to your hotel, most places if you order before 2pm it will be at your doorstep by 6pm the next day!

To look for prices just go to gmarket.com or danawa.com
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Hey guys i need a new monitor to keep up with my new 7950 boost crossfire setup.I spent so much money on my computer but yet i have a 60hz monitor but at least its 27inch..Can you guys recommend a monitor for me please?I was trying to figure out if i wanted a 120hz or a 1440p.


Do what I did and get one of each







Honestly I use my 1440p more often. I only use the 120hz when I am fps gaming which seems to becoming less and less.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I live in Busan, been here for about 6 years, there are two main computer markets. You can get these online for about 300,000w but at the markets here you will pay a bit more. It's been a while since I have looked at the price but maybe 325-350,000w? Even if you are here for only a short time you can order one to your hotel, most places if you order before 2pm it will be at your doorstep by 6pm the next day!
> 
> To look for prices just go to gmarket.com or danawa.com
> Do what I did and get one of each
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Honestly I use my 1440p more often. I only use the 120hz when I am fps gaming which seems to becoming less and less.


I do more fps gaming then anything.You think i should get a 1080p 120hz or a 1440p?


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> I do more fps gaming then anything.You think i should get a 1080p 120hz or a 1440p?


I honestly don't know what you should do... I guess you have to weigh the pros/cons of both and make a decision. I bounce back and forth between using both as my main monitor. I definitely notice a difference when playing FPS on my 120hz vs the Korean monitor. But the colors and size on the Korean monitor are so much better.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I have a Q270 and have had it for over a year. The buttons never worked except the power button. Can anyone confirm this or is it just my panel?

Also, does anyone else find 1440p too big for most apps or games like steam or any RPG? I find the UI to always be too small.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I have a Q270 and have had it for over a year. The buttons never worked except the power button. Can anyone confirm this or is it just my panel?
> 
> Also, does anyone else find 1440p too big for most apps or games like steam or any RPG? I find the UI to always be too small.


The brightness buttons work. They're just really slow so you might need to hold it down for a long time to get any meaningful change.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

What do the two on the left do?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> What do the two on the left do?


If your model has speakers... volume up and down.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Ah. okay thanks.


----------



## Koehler

It's been a while since I've posted on this thread.

Do they still sell the 120Hz models anymore?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> It's been a while since I've posted on this thread.
> 
> Do they still sell the 120Hz models anymore?


I found a couple on ebay but they were not cheap...


----------



## Jeesh

Hi guys,

About a week ago my monitor suddenly became rather red, just everything saturated red.

After a bit of a search people suggested changing the cable.

I have picked up two new cables now online but I have the same problem with both.

The monitor does not seem to recognize they are even there, the light just flashes. Yet the moment I chuck in the "broken" cable it picks it up straight away and the display turns on.

Is there something I have to do to make it detect the cable? Any help with the issue would be great.

Thanks.


----------



## WorldExclusive

*Has anyone installed the Overlord PCB in a Q270 Multi??? Was the installation straight forward or any issues?*


----------



## knightmetro

Speaking of PCB's....

I need a stock PCB for a regular Q270 Catleap. Mine has the blank screen issue. Green light, backlight on, but just a black screen.

I don't care about an OC board, I just need to get my monitor working.

Let me know if you have a spare, know where I can get one, etc....

And I know about the Overlord boards, but I don't want to drop a $200 board into a monitor I only spent $300 on.

Thanks.


----------



## sparkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WorldExclusive*
> 
> *Has anyone installed the Overlord PCB in a Q270 Multi??? Was the installation straight forward or any issues?*


I've just installed an Overlord PCB set in a Q270 NON-multi (dual DVI model only). Really easy after watching Scribby's Youtube install video of which a link is available on the Overlord website. The hardest part is removing the bezel without breaking - I managed to NOT break it but you need to be really careful and patient.

It should be noted that the PCB set supplied from Overlord only has a dual DVI input only i.e. no HDMI, VGA, etc.

EDIT: Added sentence re. bezel removal.


----------



## mav451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sparkboy*
> 
> I've just installed an Overlord PCB set in a Q270 NON-multi (dual DVI model only). Really easy after watching Scribby's Youtube install video of which a link is available on the Overlord website. The hardest part is removing the bezel without breaking - I managed to NOT break it but you need to be really careful and patient.
> 
> It should be noted that the PCB set supplied from Overlord only has a dual DVI input only i.e. no HDMI, VGA, etc.
> 
> EDIT: Added sentence re. bezel removal.


Nice job - did you take any pics throughout the process?


----------



## WorldExclusive

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sparkboy*
> 
> I've just installed an Overlord PCB set in a Q270 NON-multi (dual DVI model only). Really easy after watching Scribby's Youtube install video of which a link is available on the Overlord website. The hardest part is removing the bezel without breaking - I managed to NOT break it but you need to be really careful and patient.
> 
> It should be noted that the PCB set supplied from Overlord only has a dual DVI input only i.e. no HDMI, VGA, etc.
> 
> EDIT: Added sentence re. bezel removal.


I have someone that's saying they were told by Overlord that the PCB wasn't compatible with their Multi-Monitor. Besides the multi-ports, the PCB connections are the same.
I called them to find out but no answer, had to leave a message. Also, just like the poster above, I would like to know where to get a stock PCB.


----------



## sparkboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> Nice job - did you take any pics throughout the process?


Thanks! Nah sorry I didn't... was too excited to get the PCB's installed!

With original PCB, my max refresh OC was 67 Hertz; now it's 111 Hertz with the Overlord PCB set. From reading various articles/posts, it may be my DVI cable not letting me get any higher. Never the less, I'm happy with 111.


----------



## mav451

Heh I'd still get that 24-gauge Dual DVI cable if you can; can't join the 120Hz club without it man


----------



## dreadfulwater

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mav451*
> 
> Heh I'd still get that 24-gauge Dual DVI cable if you can; can't join the 120Hz club without it man


Really? I bought one of those monstrosities and the damn thing weighs a ton. So much that I am afraid to attach it to this creaky monitor for fear of breaking the DVI connector off. Silly design choice putting the Connector itself on the right middle of the board and not on the bottom so that the connector takes all the weight. The one that came with the monitor looks fine to me.


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Hey guys i need a new monitor to keep up with my new 7950 boost crossfire setup.I spent so much money on my computer but yet i have a 60hz monitor but at least its 27inch..Can you guys recommend a monitor for me please?I was trying to figure out if i wanted a 120hz or a 1440p.


Why not get a 27", 1440p 120Hz monitor? It'll really push your cards! Yamikasi Catleap Extreme 2B or the Overlord's Tempest will do the trick.


----------



## aaa12585

Anyone know what SINGLE graphic cards are decent to overclock the Overlord Tempest X270OC through about 85Hz-110Hz?

I have a GTX 460 Ti right now, but I'm very unsure by the way I've seen everyone converse about this that it will suffice. At least as far as a little overclocking goes.


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaa12585*
> 
> Anyone know what SINGLE graphic cards are decent to overclock the Overlord Tempest X270OC through about 85Hz-110Hz?
> 
> I have a GTX 460 Ti right now, but I'm very unsure by the way I've seen everyone converse about this that it will suffice. At least as far as a little overclocking goes.


Ya, a 460 will definitely restrict your monitor performance. If you can't drop a grand on a GTX Titan, I'd recommend getting a 3Gb 7970, the extra memory over the GTX 680 will come in handy when pushing those pixels through an overclocked monitor. Mind you, depending on your budget, you might want to consider CF/SLI 4Gb 670/660s or 7950s which would perform better in most situations than a single flagship card.


----------



## aaa12585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJT*
> 
> Ya, a 460 will definitely restrict your monitor performance. If you can't drop a grand on a GTX Titan, I'd recommend getting a 3Gb 7970, the extra memory over the GTX 680 will come in handy when pushing those pixels through an overclocked monitor. Mind you, depending on your budget, you might want to consider CF/SLI 4Gb 670/660s or 7950s which would perform better in most situations than a single flagship card.


Very helpful and informative! thank you!

So, more vRam, anything 3GB=>, when looking at a single graphics card will suffice?

I'll let you know my situation, I'm very hesitant on getting a possible flagship card due to such prices.

I'm aware of generation architectures and how well they stack in comparison to previous generations, but in about two years (I know I'm asking for predictions. Please roll with it.







) with Geforce's Maxwell or something, do you think that a 960/860-870/770 GTX will suffice for such operations I talked about in my previous post? (2GB vram for these generations, or is a 3GB limit pretty safe to conclude?)

or am I out of luck and will have to move towards a 780?


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaa12585*
> 
> Very helpful and informative! thank you!
> 
> So, more vRam, anything 3GB=>, when looking at a single graphics card will suffice?
> 
> I'll let you know my situation, I'm very hesitant on getting a possible flagship card due to such prices.
> 
> I'm aware of generation architectures and how well they stack in comparison to previous generations, but in about two years (I know I'm asking for predictions. Please roll with it.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) with Geforce's Maxwell or something, do you think that a 960/860-870/770 GTX will suffice for such operations I talked about in my previous post? (2GB vram for these generations, or is a 3GB limit pretty safe to conclude?)
> 
> or am I out of luck and will have to move towards a 780?


I saw a projected specs slide and I believe the 780 is going to have 5Gb of memory and a 320-bit bus (somewhat smaller than that of the Titan), so I'm sure there will be 870/770 & 860/760 variants with >4Gbs mem and much higher bandwidths, if you are willing to wait that long. The only issue with the current Nvidia 4Gb 670 architecture is that the 256-bit bus limits memory bandwidth to only 192.2 GB/sec. At higher resolutions and 120Hz, that too could become a limit on avaialble, useable memory. So probably the 3GB, 7950 CF, with the wider bus, would serve you better if you want to upgrade now. But either way, whether you decide to wait for the 700-800 series cards, or go CF/SLI now...you will need more horsepower than even a 460 SLI to push those pixels. Waiting 1-2 years to realize the benefits of a high performance monitor you have now doesn't make much sense, IMO.

Watch the forums, you could probably get a great SLI or flagship card bargain from the guys dumping theirs to get Titans!


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaa12585*
> 
> Anyone know what SINGLE graphic cards are decent to overclock the Overlord Tempest X270OC through about 85Hz-110Hz?
> 
> I have a GTX 460 Ti right now, but I'm very unsure by the way I've seen everyone converse about this that it will suffice. At least as far as a little overclocking goes.


My friend has a single GTX 560 Ti and can overclock his 120Hz Yamakasi.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So how does one overclock their monitor?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> So how does one overclock their monitor?


You need to buy the 2B version. They sell it at 120Hz.net. Not sure if they sell them anymore.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So how so I know if I have an original? I bought it last February when they first came out. (2012)


----------



## NinjaSushi2

double post


----------



## lusal

Quote:


> So how so I know if I have an original? I bought it last February when they first came out. (2012)


Look at the serial number on the rear of the panel. You should see an indication. If you happen to see a "2B" somewhere in the model/serial number area then chances are you have the right boards (Timing Contro PCBl and DVI PCB) to overclock.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Cool. I'll check when im at my pc later.


----------



## Havolice

hi guys i have a catleap for 5 months now and its still going strong BUT

i just bought a dell 2713hm *the budget line* and what i noticed is the dell shows WAY more detail then the catleap does infact it makes the catleaps detailing look faded or none existant i find it odd :/

anybody had this problem i also had it on my other korean monitor


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Darn. Mine is a 2C.







N0 0vercl0cking f0r me...


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Havolice*
> 
> hi guys i have a catleap for 5 months now and its still going strong BUT
> 
> i just bought a dell 2713hm *the budget line* and what i noticed is the dell shows WAY more detail then the catleap does infact it makes the catleaps detailing look faded or none existant i find it odd :/
> 
> anybody had this problem i also had it on my other korean monitor


Hmm interesting. I th0ught f buying a 2713/2710 awhile back. I still may get 0ne 0f th0se and sell my 0ther tw0 m0nit0rs.

(n0 0h key.. l0l)

wh00ps. I meant the 2412m.


----------



## OneGun

What do you guys think of the Monoprice 27in 1440p or 30in 1600p monitors?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I hear g00d things ab0ut m0n0price. As f0r 30" m0nit0rs. My friend l0ves his dell U30 w/e.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> I hear g00d things ab0ut m0n0price. As f0r 30" m0nit0rs. My friend l0ves his dell U30 w/e.


Well i was thinking the 30in monopricefor like $650.I live 30min drive and can pick up and return if there are any problems.Should i try it?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Hmm. For that price id buy a dell. I hear people love their dells better in comparison.


----------



## Guillaume

Hey guys. I have a Yamakasi 300 Sparta (30"/1600p), and after 3 months, the power brick seems dead (the green light on it doesn't light up anymore).

It's not the same power brick than the ones that have been posted in this thread, though (like in post #2112). It's 7A instead of 5A. I can't find any 7A on ebay either.

Do you know if it's important? Is it 7A because the monitor is bigger than 27", or is it just random? (I read in this thread that these monitor are assembled from whatever bits are laying around the factory, apparently.)

Here's a picture of mine:


----------



## FishHeadswg

Well, I shipped my Catleap cross country for a move and everything worked great.... for about a minute.

The screen faded to black so I restarted and had a picture for maybe 10 seconds, now I get nothing at all. I'm not sure if the brick is damaged or the DVI-D cable decided to stop working or if a connection is lose in the monitor or something in the PCB just burned out. I opened up the brick and everything looked fine.

I guess I'll go pick a cable up at Best Buy and return it if nothing happens. I'll probably open up the monitor and tinker with its guts afterwards since I really don't have anything to lose what with shipping costs to South Korea and all.

Maybe I'll just go back down to a 1080/1200p IPS, though I have no idea what's a good deal on the monitor market these days.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

That sucks.







I've been thinking of getting a U2412M myself. 1920x1200 IPS, Dell. I recently just heard about some new PLS monitors from Korea that can OC to 120Hz. Samsung PLS guts so I'm leaning that way now. PLS>IPS or S-IPS. 120Hz>60Hz so I take it is better in every way. Plus they use real stands!

Dare I say so long Crap-Leap?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> That sucks.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've been thinking of getting a U2412M myself. 1920x1200 IPS, Dell. I recently just heard about some new PLS monitors from Korea that can OC to 120Hz. Samsung PLS guts so I'm leaning that way now. PLS>IPS or S-IPS. 120Hz>60Hz so I take it is better in every way. Plus they use real stands!
> 
> Dare I say so long Crap-Leap?


Real stands?

Not really. The stand isn't much better on the PLS (at least the Qnix) ones. It's just as flimsy either way.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

May real stand was a bit off but certainly better. Then again if all you can correct me on is the stand.. My ASUS 24" has a crap stand as well imo. VESA mount is the way to go these days it seems unless you spend money on an ultrasharp/ben-q, etc. where they don't cut corners.



As you can tell the stand works enough to support it leaning in this picture. My catleap can't even lean. >.< Well actually it does lean. To the right a bit, really annoying. I need to get a VESA stand for it!!











I think I might get on of these and compare them to my catleap then sell the crappier one.

I still think most of these Korena monitors are rebranded POS models. Though they are shiney turds.


----------



## OneGun

What do you guys use to calibrate your monitors?


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> What do you guys use to calibrate your monitors?


My eyeballs. I'm sure it's off as can be. In reality I used one of the profiles listed in the OP and it looks just fine. I wish I could get my old 20" TN panel to look anywhere close to the colors. The TN panel has a yellowish tint to it and the Catleap has a blueish tint to it.


----------



## OneGun

Well i got my 27in monoprice and it is pretty nice.Its got all the inputs and a OSD.Zero dead pixel guaranteed and there is minimal light bleed..









And i got it OCed to 75hz with no issues so far.I have not tried anymore yet..


----------



## Roikyou

I see that the Catleap 2B OC edition on Ebay is back down to 850....


----------



## FishHeadswg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FishHeadswg*
> 
> Well, I shipped my Catleap cross country for a move and everything worked great.... for about a minute.
> 
> The screen faded to black so I restarted and had a picture for maybe 10 seconds, now I get nothing at all. I'm not sure if the brick is damaged or the DVI-D cable decided to stop working or if a connection is lose in the monitor or something in the PCB just burned out. I opened up the brick and everything looked fine.
> 
> I guess I'll go pick a cable up at Best Buy and return it if nothing happens. I'll probably open up the monitor and tinker with its guts afterwards since I really don't have anything to lose what with shipping costs to South Korea and all.
> 
> Maybe I'll just go back down to a 1080/1200p IPS, though I have no idea what's a good deal on the monitor market these days.


Well, I did everything I could but it's still giving me a solid green light with no picture.

I think I'll go try my luck with a reputable brand like Dell this time. Probably just gonna get a glossy S2240M and tape my windows shut.


----------



## BoredErica

9-10 months in, monitor still working fine.


----------



## Demented

I've had my Catleap for a little over a year now. It's still looks amazing, but I do have a minor annoyance from time to time.

I leave the monitor on, and just turn off my rig as needed. Sometimes when I power up, the monitor will display what looks like an attempted render, but is just pulsating noise. Turning the monitor off, and then on fixes this immediately.


----------



## TangoDown332

Ok, this was probably posted or brought up earlier, but my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE worked for me perfectly before I PCS'd and now when I attempt to power it up, I get a blinking green light. Is my monitor DOA? And if so what are the fix actions, if any?


----------



## mobilize1

Anyone happen to know a source where I can get a board (motherboard, main board, whatever it's called) for the yamakasi catleap 2703? Basically I got my money back (they refused to replace it) and the electronics shop says I need a new board. I figure if I can get one great and if I can't I'm not really out any money.


----------



## dandenoth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TangoDown332*
> 
> Ok, this was probably posted or brought up earlier, but my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE worked for me perfectly before I PCS'd and now when I attempt to power it up, I get a blinking green light. Is my monitor DOA? And if so what are the fix actions, if any?


That happens when the monitor isn't detecting a signal. Try another cable if you can.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mobilize1*
> 
> Anyone happen to know a source where I can get a board (motherboard, main board, whatever it's called) for the yamakasi catleap 2703? Basically I got my money back (they refused to replace it) and the electronics shop says I need a new board. I figure if I can get one great and if I can't I'm not really out any money.


I though I replied to this, maybe my post was deleted for including a link though. There is a source where you can buy OC'able boards, but they're about 200 bucks. If you're interested, send me a PM and I can send you a link.


----------



## yankstar

Hey guys I have just purchases an X star monitor. How safe is it to overclock these monitors in terms of shortening the life and what is a safe overclock level?


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yankstar*
> 
> Hey guys I have just purchases an X star monitor. How safe is it to overclock these monitors in terms of shortening the life and what is a safe overclock level?


If you have an x-star head on over to http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star. Most people are able to get 120hz, some not past 100. Generally considered safe. Overclocking is covered on the first page.


----------



## TangoDown332

I did it still didn't work until I realized I didnt install my Crossfire bridge,and then it hummed to life lol.


----------



## -SpArkLeS-

Hey guys

I'm a little confused with al the different monitors on Ebay. I'm researching this one and I wonder what's the difference?

First there is the Q270 and the Q271.

How can I see that it's glass or not? Don't need built in speakers.

Info: I have dual Sapphire 7870's in crossfire my current monitor is Samsung XL2370 (led) will the quality difference be huge? (resolution and size aside)

thx


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-SpArkLeS-*
> 
> Hey guys
> 
> I'm a little confused with al the different monitors on Ebay. I'm researching this one and I wonder what's the difference?
> 
> First there is the Q270 and the Q271.
> 
> How can I see that it's glass or not? Don't need built in speakers.
> 
> Info: I have dual Sapphire 7870's in crossfire my current monitor is Samsung XL2370 (led) will the quality difference be huge? (resolution and size aside)
> 
> thx


normally says its glass in the title like so-
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/130724901986?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

as far as i know the difference is only in the stand/plastics but i may be wrong.
Ive got the one i linked above great screen i paid £420 for 2 delivered.

And yeh huge difference, when i look at a 1080 screen now it looks dreadful like using a tv as a pc screen to my eyes.


----------



## xecuter

Hi, I've been following these monitors for a while! and have decided to buy one! Im gonna go with the Catleap Extreme 2B
Does any of you know where I can get one? or if they are stock anywhere? I can only find places taking preorders, or they are out of stock!

Someone please help me


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xecuter*
> 
> Hi, I've been following these monitors for a while! and have decided to buy one! Im gonna go with the Catleap Extreme 2B
> Does any of you know where I can get one? or if they are stock anywhere? I can only find places taking preorders, or they are out of stock!
> 
> Someone please help me


Here.

That said, if you're looking for just overclockability + 1440p + better-than-TN tech, check out the Qnix PLS monitors, which are 1440p overclockable ones.

PS: My ebay links to the Canadian site.


----------



## Simpleofmind

Anyone here know how to get in touch with the manufacturer? I bought a monitor from Green-sum and he stopped responding to my messages about warranty a week ago. It is very fustrating for me to have to use my laptop when I have a huge monitor sitting there that does not work. Now I have a 27 inch paper weight that I want to get fixed. Or at least know where to get the parts to fix it. I have the Yamakasi Q270 Multi. Thanks in advance.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xecuter*
> 
> Hi, I've been following these monitors for a while! and have decided to buy one! Im gonna go with the Catleap Extreme 2B
> Does any of you know where I can get one? or if they are stock anywhere? I can only find places taking preorders, or they are out of stock!
> 
> Someone please help me


There is zero point in buying Catleap, go with the Qnix QX2710.


----------



## aaa12585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> Here.
> 
> That said, if you're looking for just overclockability + 1440p + better-than-TN tech, check out the Qnix PLS monitors, which are 1440p overclockable ones.
> 
> PS: My ebay links to the Canadian site.


Is this real? too good to be true? basically a Catleap 2B???

How easily can it be overclocked and how high is it capable of doing so? I'm gonna slam down some money for this baby A LOT sooner than I thought if this is a dream come true!!









What are the differences between this and the 2B??


----------



## iamSneaky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remmib*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *xecuter*
> 
> Hi, I've been following these monitors for a while! and have decided to buy one! Im gonna go with the Catleap Extreme 2B
> Does any of you know where I can get one? or if they are stock anywhere? I can only find places taking preorders, or they are out of stock!
> 
> Someone please help me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> There is zero point in buying Catleap, go with the Qnix QX2710.
Click to expand...

Ah ...... not true, I have both a Catleap 2B and a QNIX sitting next to each other, both running at 120Hz.
The Catleaps colours are MUCH better
than the QNIX. The QNIX goes really dark when over clocked and it takes a lot of messing about to get it looking ok.
I have it looking pretty good but no way near as good as my Cat. Of course price does matter though.


----------



## topthis

Once calibrated with the qnix at 120hz isn't it the same as it was at 60hz? Saying you just up the brightness adjust contrast etc. to make it the same?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaa12585*
> 
> Is this real? too good to be true? basically a Catleap 2B???
> 
> How easily can it be overclocked and how high is it capable of doing so? I'm gonna slam down some money for this baby A LOT sooner than I thought if this is a dream come true!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What are the differences between this and the 2B??


Catleap 2B uses IPS tech. Rarer, more expensive (the monitor, not the tech). Colour, gamma and brightness are more uniform when overclocking.

The QNix family are Samsung's PLS tech, which is for our purposes, the same thing. Much cheaper. Less track record than the catleaps. When heavily overclocked, gamma drops, brightness decreases and thus calibration goes way out the wazoo.


----------



## ggp759

20130602_190846.jpg 4110k .jpg file
I have a yamakasi catleap for over a year now. Using a gtx 680. Yday i dusted off my pc including the gpu. When plugged in again there are faint vertical lines that appear mostly on white background and lees on other colors. Thinking i did something to the gtx 680 i swapped it for my old gtx 570. Lines are still there. Swapped the monitor with a Asus vg236 the lines are gone. So it has something to do with the monitor. I did not dust off the monitor by the way. The monitor was never overcloked. Anyone else experienced something similar? Is there anything i can do? I cant stand the Asus (low res, TN, etc). Thanks in advance.


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ggp759*
> 
> I have a yamakasi catleap for over a year now. Using a gtx 680. Yday i dusted off my pc including the gpu. When plugged in again there are faint vertical lines that appear mostly on white background and lees on other colors. Thinking i did something to the gtx 680 i swapped it for my old gtx 570. Lines are still there. Swapped the monitor with a Asus vg236 the lines are gone. So it has something to do with the monitor. I did not dust off the monitor by the way. The monitor was never overcloked. Anyone else experienced something similar? Is there anything i can do? I cant stand the Asus (low res, TN, etc). Thanks in advance.


I've had my catleap for over a year, and I occasionally get garbled lines when I boot. Usually just turning the monitor off and on again will fix it.

Also, when I first had it, it would have this sparkly issue that I would fix by turning my rig off, make sure the cable to monitor and PC were secure/resecured. Then massage the cable near the connectors. Then boot up.

If you haven't already, triple check all connections are secure, and gpu is seated fully in the slot.

That's about all I can think of.


----------



## semiphoto

Hi guys, a am a video editor and image editor.Whice monitor can you suggest me? i have a 2core intel E8500 @ 3,16GHz with a 7GB RAM and a GIGABYTE GEFORCE GTX650 TI BOOST GV-N65TBOC-2GD 2GB GDDR5 ,Windows 7 64bit


----------



## kieth89

Alright, I'm probably going to take the plunge on these monitors tonight or tomorrow, but first I have a couple of questions. While I'm sure these have been answered somewhere in the 900 pages of this thread, I really don't want to read through the whole thing. Anyways, questions:

1) Who should I buy from and why?
2) Is the input lag noticeable when playing games? Does this change if I get the multi-input version (which is the one I'm looking at)?
3) What is the difference in looks between the glass and glossy? Is there a big reason to get glass vs glossy? Do glass displays have more defects (like dust) or does that happen regardless of type?
4) Am I dead in the water if it doesn't work, or can I return for a full refund? (this probably ties into the buyer)
5) How are black levels?

I appreciate any answers, really tired of buying crappy monitors but don't have $1000 to spend on a monitor.


----------



## iamSneaky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *semiphoto*
> 
> Hi guys, a am a video editor and image editor. Which monitor can you suggest me? i have a 2core intel E8500 @ 3,16GHz with a 7GB RAM and a GIGABYTE GEFORCE GTX650 TI BOOST GV-N65TBOC-2GD 2GB GDDR5 ,Windows 7 64bit


Pretty much any of the Korean IPS / PLS monitors will be best if run at 60Hz. With your rig it would not be powerful enough to run games at
120FPS so getting an overclockable monitor, you would only really benefit from the desktop smoothness.
If you do want 120Hz operation then for your uses I would suggest the Yamakasi Catleap OC Extreme monitor as the Colours are
much better than the QNIX PLS.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieth89*
> 
> Alright, I'm probably going to take the plunge on these monitors tonight or tomorrow, but first I have a couple of questions. While I'm sure these have been answered somewhere in the 900 pages of this thread, I really don't want to read through the whole thing. Anyways, questions:
> 
> 1) Who should I buy from and why?


There are several good sellers on eBay but I recommend green-sum (see below)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieth89*
> 
> 2) Is the input lag noticeable when playing games? Does this change if I get the multi-input version (which is the one I'm looking at)?


I notice no more input lag on my Catleap or QNIX than I did with my old 24" ASUS VH242 TN monitor.
Keep in mind though that my two monitors are Dual Link DVI-D OC monitors. The Multi input monitors cannot truly overclock, they
skip frames. The Multi input Monitors also have an OSD and scaler so this introduces input lag where the DVI-D input only monitors
do not have an OSD or scaler so basically they have zero input lag.
If the monitor is used mainly for gaming then I suggest you get the Dual Link DVI-D only model, be it an OC monitor or just a
standard 60Hz monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieth89*
> 
> 3) What is the difference in looks between the glass and glossy? Is there a big reason to get glass vs glossy? Do glass displays have more defects (like dust) or does that happen regardless of type?


Well imagine your existing monitor with a sheet of glass over the face of it.
The Monitors with Glass over the front are mainly made for PC/Gaming cafe's as a way to protect the screens, really, you
don't need it for home use unless you are really concerned about something hitting your screen.
The Glass panel Monitors CAN get dust stuck between it and the screen during manufacture (most sellers will mention this),
it is really the luck of the draw.
I recommend going for just a standard glossy screen without the glass.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieth89*
> 
> 4) Am I dead in the water if it doesn't work, or can I return for a full refund? (this probably ties into the buyer)


If you purchase through green-sum they are very good with issues, I know of 3 people who have had various issues with their monitors
and green-sum has repaired/replaced all three with no cost to the buyer (green-sum covers return shipping also)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kieth89*
> 
> 5) How are black levels?


Black levels are really good with all the Korean IPS/PLS screens


----------



## simpleonin

Hi,

I've been a long time lurking here in the forums. I had my Cat Leap from green sum for 10 months now and still going strong.

I am gonna buy another one and would like to ask if anyone have used this mount:
2 Monitor Mount

If anyone has other suggestion it'll be much appreciated.

I have a glass table so clamp won't work


----------



## Stoogie

Whats the difference between the Perfect Pixel version and the non-Perfect Pixel version which costs $40 less, which should i buy?


----------



## simpleonin

Perfect Pixel the way I understand it is that there will be no dead pixel when the product comes at your door. They checked it thoroughly before shipping it. That's the extra 40$ you paid for.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *simpleonin*
> 
> Perfect Pixel the way I understand it is that there will be no dead pixel when the product comes at your door. They checked it thoroughly before shipping it. That's the extra 40$ you paid for.


Perfect Pixel is a marketing term which says they checked the panel for bright pixel defects and found none at the factory. Therefore, the panel that you get should not have any stuck or hot pixels.

Dead pixels (pixels that are permanently dark) are not covered by Perfect Pixel.


----------



## kikibgd

just to jump in i am thinking of ordering in next two months or so this yamakasi , its possible to use lightboost on this monitor or not?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> just to jump in i am thinking of ordering in next two months or so this yamakasi , its possible to use lightboost on this monitor or not?


No. Lightboost requires hardware that all non-lightboost monitors do not have.


----------



## kikibgd

ok i can settle with 1440p at 120hz









btw this monitor that i linked has glass\ glossy finish ?

any monitor died \ problems?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> ok i can settle with 1440p at 120hz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw this monitor that i linked has glass\ glossy finish ?
> 
> any monitor died \ problems?


where are you buying a overclockable Catleap from and how much?


----------



## Black Wires

Last Wednesday (5/29/2013) I ordered 2 catleap Q270 SE panels from http://www.yamakasiusa.com/ . After placing the order I received a simple order confirmation saying once the package ships I will be sent a tracking number etc... But what bothers me is the contact information " If you have any questions about your order please contact us at [email protected] or call us at Monday - Friday, 8am - 5pm PST. "

Funny enough the phone number is not listed anywhere, and they do not respond to emails sent to their support mail (at least not within a couple days so far). I'm wondering of this site has a reputation of being a scam, and if I should reverse the charge to my account.


----------



## Stoogie

Can you play Blu-Rays through say Power DVD on the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 ??? (regards hdcp)


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoogie*
> 
> Can you play Blu-Rays through say Power DVD on the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 ??? (regards hdcp)


Definitive yes. I watch Blu-Rays all the time using PowerDVD 12 on mine.


----------



## Cavey00

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stoogie*
> 
> Can you play Blu-Rays through say Power DVD on the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 ??? (regards hdcp)


Yes, it shows up as HDCP compliant.


----------



## kikibgd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> where are you buying a overclockable Catleap from and how much?


this is what i found on ebay

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/121075441945?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c30a8a119


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> this is what i found on ebay
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/121075441945?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c30a8a119


Yeah those are godly expensive, I highly recomomend you don't buy that and buy a QNIX or XSTAR korean 1440p PLS display and save yourself 400+ euros, they overclock as well, I have the 2b extreme Catleap and the Qnix monitors, my Qnix overclocks up to 138hz and my Catleap stops at 118 before getting scan lines


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> this is what i found on ebay
> 
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brand-New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-Monitor-Perfect-Pixel-/121075441945?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c30a8a119


I was also looking at the Catleap but went with a Qnix.. I get 120hz with no issues.. The only problem is when Ocing it dims the gamma.. But for gaming it doesn't bother me.. I got mine for $317 shipped..


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Yeah those are godly expensive, I highly recomomend you don't buy that and buy a QNIX or XSTAR korean 1440p PLS display and save yourself 400+ euros, they overclock as well, I have the 2b extreme Catleap and the Qnix monitors, my Qnix overclocks up to 138hz and my Catleap stops at 118 before getting scan lines


I have read that the QNIX or XSTAR korean 1440p PLS displays have reduced gamma (screen gets dark) when overclocked, and the colours are not as good as an IPS panel. Your experience may differ, but I'd do some research before recommending those monitors over a Catleap Extreme OC (price aside).


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJT*
> 
> I have read that the QNIX or XSTAR korean 1440p PLS displays have reduced gamma (screen gets dark) when overclocked, and the colours are not as good as an IPS panel. Your experience may differ, but I'd do some research before recommending those monitors over a Catleap Extreme OC (price aside).


That's what I just said about my Qnix lol.. The Gamma part. The colors are the same as a ips panel when at 60hz..But all colors dim at higher hz..But if you use someone's custom 120hz profile with added gamma it will fix a lot of the issues but it is still dim and not as vibrant to me..


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJT*
> 
> I have read that the QNIX or XSTAR korean 1440p PLS displays have reduced gamma (screen gets dark) when overclocked, and the colours are not as good as an IPS panel. Your experience may differ, but I'd do some research before recommending those monitors over a Catleap Extreme OC (price aside).


RESEARCH? I own BOTH of them and use BOTH of them daily, side by side, please tell me how much more RESEARCH I need to do


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> RESEARCH? I own BOTH of them and use BOTH of them daily, please tell me how much more RESEARCH I need to do


OK, don't get your panties in a knot. Since you don't need to research to verify the issues mentioned above, are you experiencing the same gamma darkening and less vibrant colours on your PLS monitor when overclocking that many others have noted? If you are, I'm just saying that you really should mention issues such as these before recommending the PLS monitors over the IPS to others.







Cheers


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJT*
> 
> OK, don't get your panties in a knot. Since you don't need to research to verify the issues mentioned above, are you experiencing the same gamma darkening and less vibrant colours on your PLS monitor when overclocking that many others have noted? If you are, I'm just saying that you really should mention issues such as these before recommending the PLS monitors over the IPS to others.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers


Yup, the gamma darkens when overclocked, the monitor profiles help out tremendously, the colors DO seem a bit more vibrant on the catleap but it's definitely not worth 3 times the price IMO, and I also feel the Catleap has less of a chance to hit 120hz compared to the Qnix
Now if I was given a Catleap that reached 138hz or a Qnix that could reach 138hz, I'd choose the Catleap everytime, but now that I have both, I wouldn't pay even a $100 difference between the two


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *y2kcamaross*
> 
> Yup, the gamma darkens when overclocked, the monitor profiles help out tremendously, the colors DO seem a bit more vibrant on the catleap but it's definitely not worth 3 times the price IMO, and I also feel the Catleap has less of a chance to hit 120hz compared to the Qnix
> Now if I was given a Catleap that reached 138hz or a Qnix that could reach 138hz, I'd choose the Catleap everytime, but now that I have both, I wouldn't pay even a $100 difference between the two


I agree most gamma darkening can be fixed with color profiles and to be honest while gaming it don't bother me.. Would I rather pay $300 for a monitor that OCs higher but losses a little gamma or $800 for one that Don't oc as high but colors stay the same while OCed.. I think anyone can figure out the answer to that..As who needs perfect colors at 120hz anyways lol.. Not many photo editors work in 120hz.


----------



## kikibgd

can you give me some models of Qnix monitor that can OC


----------



## brightbus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> can you give me some models of Qnix monitor that can OC


There aren't really that many models. Just qnix qx2710 matt or glossy.


----------



## kikibgd

aha so its qnix qx2710 evolution II,, going to read trough the topic anyhow its much better monitor (value)
at what hz they start to get darker. as i understood you OC the panel when its get dark you just put more gamma ? or?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kikibgd*
> 
> aha so its qnix qx2710 evolution II,, going to read trough the topic anyhow its much better monitor (value)
> at what hz they start to get darker. as i understood you OC the panel when its get dark you just put more gamma ? or?


Yes you can add more gamma but the picture will still look best at 60hz..


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Yes you can add more gamma but the picture will still look best at 60hz..


The Catleap Extreme will still look amazing @120Hz...no gamma adjustment or colour recalibration required...


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RJT*
> 
> The Catleap Extreme will still look amazing @120Hz...no gamma adjustment or colour recalibration required...


It should for $800...For the money you save you can buy a 7970ghz edition...


----------



## kikibgd

damn it i dont know, i dont like the bleeding and color problems with qnix, but this 400$ sounds nice.....


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> It should for $800...For the money you save you can buy a 7970ghz edition...


...but if your display looks like crap, what good is a 7970 gonna do you?


----------



## Chadron

I currently have a Yamakasi Catleap but it's locked at 59hz. Should I buy a B series board online and switch it with my current board and overclock my catleap to 120hz or 110hz? Is it generally safe for my monitor if I want it to last for 2-3 years at least?


----------



## Roikyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Black Wires*
> 
> Last Wednesday (5/29/2013) I ordered 2 catleap Q270 SE panels from http://www.yamakasiusa.com/ . After placing the order I received a simple order confirmation saying once the package ships I will be sent a tracking number etc... But what bothers me is the contact information " If you have any questions about your order please contact us at [email protected] or call us at Monday - Friday, 8am - 5pm PST. "
> 
> Funny enough the phone number is not listed anywhere, and they do not respond to emails sent to their support mail (at least not within a couple days so far). I'm wondering of this site has a reputation of being a scam, and if I should reverse the charge to my account.


Take a look at the about us:

"To all of you, from all of us at Magento Store - Thank you and Happy eCommerce!

John Doe
Some important guy"

Somethings not right....

Did a search with the better business bureau, no results. You might want to do some searching, contact your credit card and you could always file a complaint with BBB.

Good Luck


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chadron*
> 
> I currently have a Yamakasi Catleap but it's locked at 59hz. Should I buy a B series board online and switch it with my current board and overclock my catleap to 120hz or 110hz? Is it generally safe for my monitor if I want it to last for 2-3 years at least?


I've only had mine for 8 months or so, but it is still working great and the picture is gorgeous. Mine can OC to ~124Hz, but I keep it at 120Hz when I want FPS gaming uber-ness. You actually have to let the panel warm up before you apply those custom resolution settings to avoid getting a grey screen for 10 minutes.

I believe Overlord computers sells the extreme "B" pcbs, as well as the overclockable "Tempest" 27" IPS monitors. Not sure if 120Hz.net sells just the pcbs by themselves, but they definitely sell the overclockable Catleaps. I got mine from them for $719.00

Oh, I almost forgot, if you get the overclockable pcb or monitor you should also purchase a 24AWG DL-DVI cable, so as to not limit your overclock potential.


----------



## BlockABoots

Just got a Yamakasi Q270 monitor, i previously had a DELL 2405FPW and you can tell the build quality isnt great on these straight away when compared to a DELL, no OSD, limited setting buttons, unstable stand, and tinny sounding speakers, but the real estate you get from 1440P screen is immense even coming from a 1200p screen. The picture is satisfying to me atm and just try to adapt to it from the DELL...it just looks different some how maybe ill get used to it im not sure, as the DELL is the only LCD monitor i have ever owned and had it for over 6 years so this change to a new LED screen is a bit of a shock....maybe its going from LCD to LED is what im noticing here...will just take some getting used to i guess!? I have a few questions if anyone can assist......

I noticed when i got the monitor i was still using my DVI cable that came with the DELL but upon hooking up the Yamakasi with this DVI cable i was getting the same desktop display 4 times on the screen in each corner, i tried installing the GPU drivers again, changing the screen res but nothing seemed to help, in the end i had to use the DVI cable that came with the Yamakasi which to be fair doesn't seem to be as good quality as my DELL one but seemed to remedy the problem, any ideas why i was getting this display anomaly?

I have tried download some colour profiles and adding them with colour management option in control panel whilst they show up in the 'Profiles associated with this device' list selecting between 2 i cannot see the colour change at all, am i missing something here how do you get this colour profiles to actually work?

Is there a 3rd part stand that fits this monitor as im not 100% confident in the supplied stand.....1 that your able to rotate the display maybe?

Is there a way to tell if my monitor is capable of OverClocking without opening it up?

Im guessing OC these to 120hz drastically shortens the life of these monitor right?


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockABoots*
> 
> Just got a Yamakasi Q270 monitor, i previously had a DELL 2405FPW and you can tell the build quality isnt great on these straight away when compared to a DELL, no OSD, limited setting buttons, unstable stand, and tinny sounding speakers, but the real estate you get from 1440P screen is immense even coming from a 1200p screen. The picture is satisfying to me atm and just try to adapt to it from the DELL...it just looks different some how maybe ill get used to it im not sure, as the DELL is the only LCD monitor i have ever owned and had it for over 6 years so this change to a new LED screen is a bit of a shock....maybe its going from LCD to LED is what im noticing here...will just take some getting used to i guess!? I have a few questions if anyone can assist......
> 
> I noticed when i got the monitor i was still using my DVI cable that came with the DELL but upon hooking up the Yamakasi with this DVI cable i was getting the same desktop display 4 times on the screen in each corner, i tried installing the GPU drivers again, changing the screen res but nothing seemed to help, in the end i had to use the DVI cable that came with the Yamakasi which to be fair doesn't seem to be as good quality as my DELL one but seemed to remedy the problem, any ideas why i was getting this display anomaly?
> 
> I have tried download some colour profiles and adding them with colour management option in control panel whilst they show up in the 'Profiles associated with this device' list selecting between 2 i cannot see the colour change at all, am i missing something here how do you get this colour profiles to actually work?
> 
> Is there a 3rd part stand that fits this monitor as im not 100% confident in the supplied stand.....1 that your able to rotate the display maybe?
> 
> Is there a way to tell if my monitor is capable of OverClocking without opening it up?
> 
> Im guessing OC these to 120hz drastically shortens the life of these monitor right?


Was your Dell dvi cable a dual link dvi?


----------



## BlockABoots

I honestly couldnt tell you, would that cause the problem then?


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlockABoots*
> 
> Just got a Yamakasi Q270 monitor, i previously had a DELL 2405FPW and you can tell the build quality isnt great on these straight away when compared to a DELL, no OSD, limited setting buttons, unstable stand, and tinny sounding speakers, but the real estate you get from 1440P screen is immense even coming from a 1200p screen. The picture is satisfying to me atm and just try to adapt to it from the DELL...it just looks different some how maybe ill get used to it im not sure, as the DELL is the only LCD monitor i have ever owned and had it for over 6 years so this change to a new LED screen is a bit of a shock....maybe its going from LCD to LED is what im noticing here...will just take some getting used to i guess!? I have a few questions if anyone can assist......
> 
> I noticed when i got the monitor i was still using my DVI cable that came with the DELL but upon hooking up the Yamakasi with this DVI cable i was getting the same desktop display 4 times on the screen in each corner, i tried installing the GPU drivers again, changing the screen res but nothing seemed to help, in the end i had to use the DVI cable that came with the Yamakasi which to be fair doesn't seem to be as good quality as my DELL one but seemed to remedy the problem, any ideas why i was getting this display anomaly?
> 
> I have tried download some colour profiles and adding them with colour management option in control panel whilst they show up in the 'Profiles associated with this device' list selecting between 2 i cannot see the colour change at all, am i missing something here how do you get this colour profiles to actually work?
> 
> Is there a 3rd part stand that fits this monitor as im not 100% confident in the supplied stand.....1 that your able to rotate the display maybe?
> 
> Is there a way to tell if my monitor is capable of OverClocking without opening it up?
> 
> Im guessing OC these to 120hz drastically shortens the life of these monitor right?


I think the reason you fixed the quad-display issue by using the included cable is that it is a dual link DVI cable. I would upgrade that to a 24AWG DL-DVI cable if you want to overclock, and ensure you are connected to the correct input on your video card...that could make a difference.

For the colour profile issue, you may want to check to see if there are drivers for your display, and try using a utility called "powerstrip" to adjust your colour profile and refresh rate. You should be able to do all that in Nvidia control panel or the AMD equivalent. There are also specific drivers you need to apply before overclocking that will remove the pixel-clock limits, and you should apply the "test mode" utility to allow non-signed drivers to be applied before installing those.

The stand sucks, yes, but as long as you have a firm desk underneath it it will be fine. You could purchase a 3rd party VESA compatible monitor stand, but I've read that removing the Catleap stand can be tough.

If you have purchased a Catleap Extreme OC (overclockable), you will have paid about $800, and there will be a sticker on the front right bezel or on the specs plate at the back which says "2B Extreme".

I think if you don't overclock them and keep them at 120Hz 24/7, they will live a long time. In my previous post I mentioned that I ensure my monitor is warm before applying my custom resolution settings (120Hz, 32-bit colour), and only really use that setting when I'm playing first person shooters like BF3 or CODBO2. If you've used the 120Hz profile, just make sure you switch back to the native resolution before shutting it off so that it starts back up at 60Hz.


----------



## anam3

I recently got a Yamakasi Q270 monitor and the screen keeps flickering. The size and picture look great but the constant flickering is giving me a headache. I tried using a different DVI cable which didnt work. Anyone have any ideas?

-Using a GTX 780 (works fine on 24")
-Havent touched monitor so its at 60 hz


----------



## lilchronic

i just bought a CATLEAP Q270 LED MULTI WHITE on ebay for 220$ hope i dont have any problems


----------



## muscleking

dahell where you find one for 220 bucks?


----------



## lilchronic

ebay yo!








http://www.ebay.com/itm/SALE-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-BLACK-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-Computer-Monitor-/181152171505?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2a2d82c5f1


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> ebay yo!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/SALE-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-BLACK-27-LED-2560X1440-WQHD-Computer-Monitor-/181152171505?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2a2d82c5f1


Does that one OC?


----------



## lilchronic

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> Does that one OC?


im not sure


----------



## Vigil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anam3*
> 
> I recently got a Yamakasi Q270 monitor and the screen keeps flickering. The size and picture look great but the constant flickering is giving me a headache. I tried using a different DVI cable which didnt work. Anyone have any ideas?


I had a similar problem with mine. Bought a new cable, didn't work. I then changed the power supply (to the one suggested on the first page of this thread) and now everything works fine.


----------



## sk84lifejose

I have the q270 (with hdmi) and i want to switch to my hdmi but pressing menu or s/e just brings up a lock icon.... what do i even do


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sk84lifejose*
> 
> I have the q270 (with hdmi) and i want to switch to my hdmi but pressing menu or s/e just brings up a lock icon.... what do i even do


You could try powering off your monitor and then power it back on while depressing the menu button to unlock the OSD? Not sure if it will work, and the OSD language might be in Korean, but its worth a shot.


----------



## sk84lifejose

FINALLY figured it out
Help the menu button for like 20 seconds, the lock icon unlocked and osd is open now. Hopefully that helps someone if they come to the same problem


----------



## Dravagun

Im having a MAJOR problem... I recently purchased a Catleap Q270 LED 27'' 2560X1440 monitor from green-sum @ ebay and upon reviewing it there was a dead pixel (which didn't totally destroy me) but about 6 hours later a vertical line appeared on the screen that changes colors from yellow to blue depending on the color background behind it. I sent him an email minutes ago and im awaiting a response. I don't know if i should tell people to definitely not trust/buy this product or if I just got a bad batch.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dravagun*
> 
> Im having a MAJOR problem... I recently purchased a Catleap Q270 LED 27'' 2560X1440 monitor from green-sum @ ebay and upon reviewing it there was a dead pixel (which didn't totally destroy me) but about 6 hours later a vertical line appeared on the screen that changes colors from yellow to blue depending on the color background behind it. I sent him an email minutes ago and im awaiting a response. I don't know if i should tell people to definitely not trust/buy this product or if I just got a bad batch.


Your case is rare. You should definitely ask for an exchange. I bought the CrossOver 27Q LED and didn't get any problems.


----------



## Dravagun

See that's the problem... It costs 250-300 dollars to ship this monitor from florida to Korea.. So I would basically be getting scammed out of 300 dollars...

Am I missing something because I see a few people here did returns but how on earth did you consider paying so much for shipping as being a fair exchange?


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dravagun*
> 
> See that's the problem... It costs 250-300 dollars to ship this monitor from florida to Korea.. So I would basically be getting scammed out of 300 dollars...
> 
> Am I missing something because I see a few people here did returns but how on earth did you consider paying so much for shipping as being a fair exchange?


I'm sure they'll pay for the shipping fees. It's only fair...


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dravagun*
> 
> See that's the problem... It costs 250-300 dollars to ship this monitor from florida to Korea.. So I would basically be getting scammed out of 300 dollars...
> 
> Am I missing something because I see a few people here did returns but how on earth did you consider paying so much for shipping as being a fair exchange?


I'm sorry for your case but you understand that was the risk going in. If we assume the chance of failure is 10% AND the seller won't pay shipping to ship it back, that's only an extra $30 of liabilities in case things go south, which I'll gladly take for this monitor.

That said yes, as the post above me suggested, maybe he'll pay shipping back. Maybe he'll pay half.


----------



## Dravagun

I would never buy a monitor with 10% failure rates though (from the research i did they definitely didn't seem 10%) nor would I buy from a Seller with less than 95% satisfaction. The simple matter is the box was open and inside was a broken monitor so that was his responsibility as a seller. A dead pixel right out of the box is unacceptable in my honest opinion for something I'm spending hard earned money on. But maybe I'm just too picky.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dravagun*
> 
> I would never buy a monitor with 10% failure rates though (from the research i did they definitely didn't seem 10%) nor would I buy from a Seller with less than 95% satisfaction. The simple matter is the box was open and inside was a broken monitor so that was his responsibility as a seller. A dead pixel right out of the box is unacceptable in my honest opinion for something I'm spending hard earned money on. But maybe I'm just too picky.


You got a shipment and the box was already open?
A single dead pixel is acceptable in a monitor that is 2560x1440. That is a LOT of pixels. You might already know this, if the pixel is in the center of vision it's less tolerable and more open to a RMA than if it were in the edges of the screen. The 10% figure was simply a number I made up to try to get my point across. You also got the lines, so the lines + pixel + open box, I think you have a compelling case to get a refund or another monitor.









It's hard to get statistics on this kind of thing though. People that get good monitors almost never bother to go to polls or proclaim how well it working after they initially got it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lilchronic*
> 
> im not sure


Very unlikely.


----------



## killuchen

So, I've had my monitor for almost a year now and yesterday when I tried to launch DayZ my screen started blinking/flickering pink? Is this a sign that my monitor is dying?.... I tried launching it again today and it started blinking/flickering red. It's the whole screen that does it.

Anybody have any ideas? It happens in other games too =/


----------



## Dravagun

Funny you mention that say that as it just reminded me this happened as soon as I turned the monitor on. It flickered static then pink and went back to static. I had to turn it off and turn it back on for it to work. Mine went bad moments later so idk :/


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> So, I've had my monitor for almost a year now and yesterday when I tried to launch DayZ my screen started blinking/flickering pink? Is this a sign that my monitor is dying?.... I tried launching it again today and it started blinking/flickering red. It's the whole screen that does it.
> 
> Anybody have any ideas? It happens in other games too =/


Is yours an overclockable version? Check that all your connections are tight. Other than that, all I can think of is either your power brick is dying or there is some emerging fault in the monitor's pcb (maybe its vrms?)


----------



## KingFudd

I have a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27, and I plan to get a second monitor. It only has the ability for the 60 Hz option. Should I research for an upgraded model over this or should I get a duplicate? Just wondering if it would look strange not having a duplicate model.

As well, the seller's page states a gpu compatibility list that goes up to AMD HD 6990 ( I have the 6950). I was considering purchasing a HD 7970 as well. Should I assume that the seller's page is just out of date and that the new gpu will be compatible? Thanks.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingFudd*
> 
> I have a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27, and I plan to get a second monitor. It only has the ability for the 60 Hz option. Should I research for an upgraded model over this or should I get a duplicate? Just wondering if it would look strange not having a duplicate model.
> 
> As well, the seller's page states a gpu compatibility list that goes up to AMD HD 6990 ( I have the 6950). I was considering purchasing a HD 7970 as well. Should I assume that the seller's page is just out of date and that the new gpu will be compatible? Thanks.


Yes, it will work with the monitor. I bet the list doesn't include the new GTX 700 series either.

Having two different models will be fine but I don't know if the height of those two monitors will be the same. Some Catleap models have different looking stands. But in terms of whether the monitor will function, yes, it will function correctly.


----------



## KingFudd

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Yes, it will work with the monitor. I bet the list doesn't include the new GTX 700 series either.
> 
> Having two different models will be fine but I don't know if the height of those two monitors will be the same. Some Catleap models have different looking stands. But in terms of whether the monitor will function, yes, it will function correctly.


I would be taking off the stand so I don't think the height would be an issue. I was pretty sure about the compatibility, but just wanted clarification. My main question is if would it look awkward having two different types of monitors or just getting a duplicate of what I already have. Overclocking is not a big concern for me. Thanks for your response.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KingFudd*
> 
> I would be taking off the stand so I don't think the height would be an issue. I was pretty sure about the compatibility, but just wanted clarification. My main question is if would it look awkward having two different types of monitors or just getting a duplicate of what I already have. Overclocking is not a big concern for me. Thanks for your response.


You'll be just fine then.


----------



## Mendax

Received my monitor today and couldn't be happier! No red lines, dead pixels, or bleeding.

I cannot believe the resolution it's so big! The IPS panel is amazing, I have never seen a monitor with this ability before. Also the white frame looks sensational!



http://imgur.com/a


----------



## iWorkAtStaples

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *killuchen*
> 
> So, I've had my monitor for almost a year now and yesterday when I tried to launch DayZ my screen started blinking/flickering pink? Is this a sign that my monitor is dying?.... I tried launching it again today and it started blinking/flickering red. It's the whole screen that does it.
> 
> Anybody have any ideas? It happens in other games too =/


It is odd that I am having a different but kindve the same issue. I am using it and then screen goes black and the monitor goes into stand by mode. The rest of the computer is fine and I still have 2 other monitors to use (which I am using right now) I do remember the power brick getting hot when this happened so I am not sure if its the power brick or something else. I really dont want to spend $90.00 for a charger if it doesnt work. Any ideas?


----------



## l0rdraiden

There is any review or comparison of this monitor?
Perfect Pixel - New YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2300 LED IPS 23" LED 1920X1080 DVI Monitor
http://www.ebay.es/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-2300-LED-IPS-23-LED-1920X1080-DVI-Monitor-/120946643329?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c28fb5181#ht_11861wt_1067

It would be any better than a Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM or Asus PB238Q 23" LED IPS?

There is any version of this Yamakasi 23" with 120Hz?

Thanks in advance fo your replies


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *l0rdraiden*
> 
> There is any review or comparison of this monitor?
> Perfect Pixel - New YAMAKASI CATLEAP 2300 LED IPS 23" LED 1920X1080 DVI Monitor
> http://www.ebay.es/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-2300-LED-IPS-23-LED-1920X1080-DVI-Monitor-/120946643329?pt=AU_comp_monitor&hash=item1c28fb5181#ht_11861wt_1067
> 
> It would be any better than a Dell Ultrasharp U2312HM or Asus PB238Q 23" LED IPS?
> 
> There is any version of this Yamakasi 23" with 120Hz?
> 
> Thanks in advance fo your replies


Dunno about overclocking. But for that price? Not worth it. A Dell U2312hm would is probably better, has better support, better build quality, and is also cheaper, all at the same time.


----------



## BoredErica

That's not in dollars, I don't know the cost of Dell Ultrasharp in that currency for your country. Here in America, Catleap is $350, Dell would be double that so it's very compelling to get Catleap.

Overclocking like that, heck no. You need to buy Overlord Tempest or a 2b version, and those cost double.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> That's not in dollars, I don't know the cost of Dell Ultrasharp in that currency for your country. Here in America, Catleap is $350, Dell would be double that so it's very compelling to get Catleap.
> 
> Overclocking like that, heck no. You need to buy Overlord Tempest or a 2b version, and those cost double.


He's talking about the 23" version - which is $280 AU on ebay. The U2312hm, on the Dell Australia site, is $215 AU. Unless the 23" version can overclock, I don't see a single reason to go with a 23" Catleap from ebay.


----------



## BoredErica

Oh, forget the 23 inch... go for the 27 inch.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> That's not in dollars, I don't know the cost of Dell Ultrasharp in that currency for your country. Here in America, Catleap is $350, Dell would be double that so it's very compelling to get Catleap.
> 
> Overclocking like that, heck no. You need to buy Overlord Tempest or a 2b version, and those cost double.


Or just get a Qnix QX2710







.


----------



## Quenios

Hi.

So I've had this monitor for a good 6ish months now. The picture etc is absolutely gorgeous.
However over the time the panel is getting a lot of "dents". I've linked to a picture album below to show them

My question is however is the any way to replace the front glass? While they are hard to see when playing a game for example, they are really annoying as they stand out a lot on a solid colour background.



http://imgur.com/DeLho


Thanks in advance for any advice


----------



## BoredErica

So you got the tempered glass version? I don't see them for sale on Ebay, you might have to find somebody who doesn't want theirs.


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quenios*
> 
> Hi.
> 
> So I've had this monitor for a good 6ish months now. The picture etc is absolutely gorgeous.
> However over the time the panel is getting a lot of "dents". I've linked to a picture album below to show them
> 
> My question is however is the any way to replace the front glass? While they are hard to see when playing a game for example, they are really annoying as they stand out a lot on a solid colour background.
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/DeLho
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance for any advice


Looks very strange.

Are those air bubbles between the panel and the glass?


----------



## Dunkles

Hi there, I just got my Yamakasi Catleap q270 SE couple of days ago, my first problem was a doa power brick, so I bought a new compatible one [thanks to this awesome forum] and now I get solid green on power brick, solid green on monitor BUT no picture, the backlight doesnt seem to be on ie, its not displaying a black screen, its black as in off..however its detectable by windows as a second monitor and I tried dragging some desktop icons on it and they remain there like its supposed to on a fully functional 2nd monitor.

here is what I tried so far:
-tried the different DVI outputs on my Gpu.
-different cables.
-different Gpus [an AMD 7970 GHz and Nvidia GTX 560]
-Clean video drivers on both machines.
-cursing really hard.

nothing seems to work, any ideas?
NOTE: I didn't open it up yet since I dont want to void my warranty in case its dead and I have to return it.
I bought this from green sum

Thank you for your time


----------



## OneGun

Hey guys I am a member of the Qnix club but I thought I would share this with you also.If you are looking to buy a Korean monitor and are in the US check this place out.
http://www.ipsledmonitors.com/Default.asp


----------



## Quenios

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koehler*
> 
> Looks very strange.
> 
> Are those air bubbles between the panel and the glass?


Some of them are, by the looks of it. I've managed to remove a few of them, all of which seemed like air bubbles. However some of them, the bigger ones, have a different texture feel when you run a finger over them. So those a definitely not air bubbles.

I should also add that it is indeed a plastic panel, and not glass. My bad. It's the SE version.


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Quenios*
> 
> Some of them are, by the looks of it. I've managed to remove a few of them, all of which seemed like air bubbles. However some of them, the bigger ones, have a different texture feel when you run a finger over them. So those a definitely not air bubbles.
> 
> I should also add that it is indeed a plastic panel, and not glass. My bad. It's the SE version.


If it's not tempered glass from my understanding, your job just got harder because the glass can be replaced but the plastic... never hear anybody try that before. And never heard of your problem either,


----------



## kiamori

I purchased one of these over a year ago when they first hit OC and it's still working great no bleed, bad pixels and it OC'ed to 99Hz with AMD Card, so I'm looking at getting another one of these now.. So, wondering is the SE version the same as the original or is this a lower end version they offer now?

@Quenios

Did you remove the clear film from the glass/panel, also I purchased the glass and ended up removing it because of the dust specs behind it. I really only wanted the glass to protect it during shipping anyways.


----------



## BoredErica

SE has no speakers. Might represent "speakers excluded"...


----------



## networkn

Hi There!

I have an annoying issue. I have a q270 Multi which is connected via HDMI (And two with DVI). I've had it about 8 months and it's been working perfectly at 2560x1440. I recently upgraded to the latest nvidia drivers and since then, I can run in 2560x1440 but the screen is all squished up, like it's a 23". I think I need to adjust the custom resolution but I can't find what settings to use.

I'd be extremely grateful if someone could help me restore my original working setup on the new drivers.

Picture.

http://snag.gy/LSnyM.jpg


----------



## networkn

Ok well I have determined it would seem it doesn't matter the resolution, it has those huge black bars either side vertically.


----------



## networkn

I have also changed the HDMI cable and done a system restore to prior to the upgrade of drivers and it's still the same. Could the monitor have partially failed?


----------



## BoredErica

Just revert back to old Nvidia driver see if that fixes it..


----------



## emaos

So being a fool, while taking apart my Yamakasi Q270 to replace the stand, I dropped a screw on my PCB while it was still plugged in and fried it. The panel is still fine but my monitor now just gives off the continuous blinking green light. I've only had it for a year and it has not given me any problems before so I'm pretty peeved at my stupidity.

Anyways, I was wondering if any of you would be interested in buying my now broken monitor for spare parts/spare panel. Besides the PCB board everything else is fine. I can post pictures of it later, I'm just gauging interest.


----------



## kevinsbane

You opened it up with it still plugged in?? D:


----------



## emaos

I R SMART.

Well not exactly, I unplugged it and opened it up to make sure the cables connecting to the PCB board were plugged in correctly. Once I did that, I just plugged it in to see if it worked because I didn't want to spend time closing it back up again. That's when I dropped the screw on the board.


----------



## WineKasra

hey guys,

So it's tax time in Aus and my pc is starting to show its age (I remember being so excited when I bought a brand new top of the line 9800GTX haha oh how time flies) and my tax return is going on a new build. I've decided on everything except the monitor. Def interested in one of these but not sure which to go for. As mentioned before most sellers who show card comparability are out of date and don't show if they'd work with my new gtx770 but I'm assuming it'd be fine. my issue is this: I'm so incredibly confused by the amount of different monitors and sellers. Probably going for a 27" and would like it to be HDMI so I can use it for my consoles as well. Is the Q271 my best bet here? Is there something else that's cheaper without the speakers?

Thanks for the help!!


----------



## BoredErica

If you want to use consoles with it yeah, get one with hdmi. The different model numbers don't really mean much. They may have different looks, stand, whatnot, but you're not getting better image quality by looking for the perfect model number. Yes, your GTX 770 will be fine. And yeah, without speakers, they are junk anyways. I believe some sellers label their monitors with "SE" for without speakers.


----------



## Remmib

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WineKasra*
> 
> hey guys,
> 
> So it's tax time in Aus and my pc is starting to show its age (I remember being so excited when I bought a brand new top of the line 9800GTX haha oh how time flies) and my tax return is going on a new build. I've decided on everything except the monitor. Def interested in one of these but not sure which to go for. As mentioned before most sellers who show card comparability are out of date and don't show if they'd work with my new gtx770 but I'm assuming it'd be fine. my issue is this: I'm so incredibly confused by the amount of different monitors and sellers. Probably going for a 27" and would like it to be HDMI so I can use it for my consoles as well. Is the Q271 my best bet here? Is there something else that's cheaper without the speakers?
> 
> Thanks for the help!!


If you forgo the ability to use the monitor with your consoles then you can gain the buttery smooth bliss that is 120Hz instead.


----------



## WineKasra

Awesome thank you kindly! Was mainly worried about X brand being better than Y brand but I guess it's practically the same monitor anyway with just a different casing.


----------



## 4644CWC

Hi Guys,

Hate to just pop in and ask for help but have searched up and down the internet and am having no luck with the following.

I've had my Catleap Q270 since last year and works perfectly with my MBAir 2011 via Thunderbolt w/ monoprice adapter. I recently purchased a Lenovo h430 Intel Core i5-3330 3GHz integraged Intel HD 2500 Graphics. For the life of me I cannot get the monitor to work with DVI > HDMI. There is no DVI on the new PC. I've tried to update all drivers, etc.

Has anyone had this issue before and have any words of wisdom?

Thank you in advance.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *4644CWC*
> 
> Hi Guys,
> 
> Hate to just pop in and ask for help but have searched up and down the internet and am having no luck with the following.
> 
> I've had my Catleap Q270 since last year and works perfectly with my MBAir 2011 via Thunderbolt w/ monoprice adapter. I recently purchased a Lenovo h430 Intel Core i5-3330 3GHz integraged Intel HD 2500 Graphics. For the life of me I cannot get the monitor to work with DVI > HDMI. There is no DVI on the new PC. I've tried to update all drivers, etc.
> 
> Has anyone had this issue before and have any words of wisdom?
> 
> Thank you in advance.


HDMI and dual link DVI ate incompatible. It will not officially work. Try making a custom resolution of [email protected] That may work.


----------



## gek0ran

@emaos

Mistakes happen. If the panel is fine, (how are you sure exactly?) and its just your PCB that needs replacement, you should consider picking up a PCB kit from Scribby's site, hes selling them for a couple hundred, they're capable of higher refresh rates than non-2b models.

Or you could possibly buy the standard PCBs from someone who already swapped them out. I'm sure there are at least a handful of people here that have done the swap and have their old DVI board and TCON.

After owning the monitor for a year, I actually ordered the PCB kit myself this week. I also did a stand swap today, I'm far less intimidated about swapping out the circuit boards now that I've opened the sucker up.


----------



## lusal

@ gek0ran:

What stand did you purchase? I've been searching and deliberating on which one to get. Some say that the cost-efficient monoprice stand (linked throughout this thread commonly) may cause the monitor to do a face-down lean. I know there are several others, but I'm leary of spending $120 USD on them.


----------



## EmilioValentino

Hi all,

I just bought a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE and I'm very happy with it. I just noticed something very annoying. When there is a lot of white in the screen, it makes a buzzing/hissing sound. I have read in this forum that this has something to do with the "choke"? My native language is not English so I don't really know what this means...

Should I repair this myself or should I ask the seller for a new monitor? I have connected this monitor to my MacBook Pro Retina and I don't hope this issue shows up with all Catleap Q270 models.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## Miaou

So, I bought the catleap Q720 monitor, and I'm having problems. Flashing green light problems.

*1. What type of GPU do you have installed?* Firepro v7900
*2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?* Clean install, just had the computer set up.
*3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?* Cable is fine, works on my other monitor.
*4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?* Yep.
*4. Tried any of the other things listed above?* I've mucked around with settings, but my computer will not recognize the monitor's display.

So, any help? Did I do something wrong? Should I send it back?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miaou*
> 
> So, I bought the catleap Q720 monitor, and I'm having problems. Flashing green light problems.
> 
> *1. What type of GPU do you have installed?* Firepro v7900
> *2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?* Clean install, just had the computer set up.
> *3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?* Cable is fine, works on my other monitor.
> *4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?* Yep.
> *4. Tried any of the other things listed above?* I've mucked around with settings, but my computer will not recognize the monitor's display.
> 
> So, any help? Did I do something wrong? Should I send it back?


You're using a DisplayPort -> DVI adapter?


----------



## Miaou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> You're using a DisplayPort -> DVI adapter?


I am, as my GPU has four of them. I also tried using the computer's DVI port, but I had the same result.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miaou*
> 
> I am, as my GPU has four of them. I also tried using the computer's DVI port, but I had the same result.


Unfortunately you have the wrong monitor for your video card. V7900 is a 4x DisplayPort card - to run a DVI only Catleap, you will need a (rather finicky) Active DisplayPort to Dual Link DVI adapter. Monoprice seems not to sell them anymore, although they do sell a minidisplayport version. The correct adapter must have the extra USB. The ones that come with your video card are limited to single link DVI, as is your motherboard's DVI port.

Since you're running a Firepro, I'd advise against hacking the drivers... but if you feel no compunction against it, then try setting up a custom resolution of [email protected]

Really though... Get native DisplayPort monitors. You're running pro graphics which cost a ton; shell out for pro monitors and don't cheap out. You'll get better support and reliability, along with fewer headaches due to finicky DisplayPort adapters and monitors not behaving.


----------



## Miaou

I really wanted an 2560x1440p monitor though, and was hoping it would work for this cheap. Would getting a DP -> D-DVI converter work? I found a few for around 110 USD.

Or are you saying that it simply will not work?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miaou*
> 
> I really wanted an 2560x1440p monitor though, and was hoping it would work for this cheap. Would getting a DP -> D-DVI converter work? I found a few for around 110 USD.
> 
> Or are you saying that it simply will not work?


DP-> DL-DVI adapters will work (the ones with USB connections). For $110 ea, they sound like the right ones. They are finicky though. Many people who use them will encounter random issues - black outs, trouble waking from sleep, needing to power cycle monitors/reset the adapter. Nothing permanent, mind you, but still annoying.

For your card, you should really be looking at brand names Dell/Samsung/Asus, or perhaps a Monoprice Auria (I do not recommend going this route, as Aurias are wide gamut monitors with an outdated panel). Native DisplayPort is the key.


----------



## PraetorianND

Hi everyone!

I am new to the forum and I am new to Catleaps.

I just ordered this Catleap from Green Sum. I didn't purchase with the intention of overclocking but the more I read the more it may be something I want to do.

I do not have my new PC yet but it is ordered and will be running dual GTX 770s so I will be able to get 120 fps on many games. I do play some FPS so the 120hz interests me.

Will I be able to OC with the version I linked?

Thanks!


----------



## Miaou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> For your card, you should really be looking at brand names Dell/Samsung/Asus, or perhaps a Monoprice Auria (I do not recommend going this route, as Aurias are wide gamut monitors with an outdated panel). Native DisplayPort is the key.


I will try searching for a new one then. I saw a viewsonic one with about the same specs for 750 USD. This is given I can return the monitor and get my money back.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Miaou*
> 
> I will try searching for a new one then. I saw a viewsonic one with about the same specs for 750 USD. This is given I can return the monitor and get my money back.


That works.

Check Dell's website often. They have U2713hm's going on sale for $550 fairly regularly; the fanclub on this very forum can help you with that.


----------



## Mendax

Will a Sapphire 7970 3GB OC Dual X support 2 Catleaps?


----------



## y2kcamaross

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mendax*
> 
> Will a Sapphire 7970 3GB OC Dual X support 2 Catleaps?


not without a dual link dvi to display port active adapter, which go for about $85-$110


----------



## Mendax

Help me figure this out....

My GPU is a *Sapphire 7970 3GB OC with Boost*. If you click the link, you can see in the specifications that the card has a DVI-Single Link and a DVI-Dual Link.

I already own a Catleap and I've tested both DVI ports. They both produce 2560x1440 resolution easily. Here's a picture of the ports on my card. 

Are both ports DVI-Dual Link? Or is one port Single Link and the other Dual Link?

I'm super confused and I want to buy a second Catleap. I'm not sure whether my card will support it or not.


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PraetorianND*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> I am new to the forum and I am new to Catleaps.
> 
> I just ordered this Catleap from Green Sum. I didn't purchase with the intention of overclocking but the more I read the more it may be something I want to do.
> 
> I do not have my new PC yet but it is ordered and will be running dual GTX 770s so I will be able to get 120 fps on many games. I do play some FPS so the 120hz interests me.
> 
> Will I be able to OC with the version I linked?
> 
> Thanks!


It's not the 2B Extreme model, so no, sorry. The 120Hz 2Bs cost around $850.


----------



## PraetorianND

Thanks for the reply. No biggie. I wouldn't have paid $850 anyway.


----------



## mrpetebojangles

Hi, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post!

Anyways, I'm an avid BF3 player and for a while now I've been tempted into getting a 1440p monitor. I use my PC almost exclusively for gaming with BF3 and soon BF4 being my primary games.

Anyone have any input on using this monitor with FPS gaming? I do play many other types of games as well.

6ms input lag, can that honestly be felt?

I currently have a nVidia gtx 680 and I want to be sure I can play at 1440 with >60 fps most of the time. I currently play at 1080 with 4x MSAA enabled and it runs fairly well. When I make the jump to 1440 I plan on turning off MSAA as I don't believe AA will make much of a difference at a higher resolution.

I'm looking at these 2 and am ready to buy once my worries have been addressed.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-IPS-WQHD-Monitor-/140893392662?

What's the difference between the 2703 and the Q270?

Anyways, I'd really appreciate any input!

Also, is the quality upgrade noticeable in FPS like BF3. I remember when I started 1080p gaming I didn't think it could get that much better... But I guess it's just one of those things you have to see for yourself.

Thanks!!!


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpetebojangles*
> 
> Hi, I'm new to this forum and this is my first post!
> 
> Anyways, I'm an avid BF3 player and for a while now I've been tempted into getting a 1440p monitor. I use my PC almost exclusively for gaming with BF3 and soon BF4 being my primary games.
> 
> Anyone have any input on using this monitor with FPS gaming? I do play many other types of games as well.
> 
> 6ms input lag, can that honestly be felt?
> 
> I currently have a nVidia gtx 680 and I want to be sure I can play at 1440 with >60 fps most of the time. I currently play at 1080 with 4x MSAA enabled and it runs fairly well. When I make the jump to 1440 I plan on turning off MSAA as I don't believe AA will make much of a difference at a higher resolution.
> 
> I'm looking at these 2 and am ready to buy once my worries have been addressed.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Tempered-Glass-27-Yamakasi-Catleap-2703-LED-IPS-2560x1440-WQHD-Monitor-/130724901986
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-27-LED-2560X1440-IPS-WQHD-Monitor-/140893392662?
> 
> What's the difference between the 2703 and the Q270?
> 
> Anyways, I'd really appreciate any input!
> 
> Also, is the quality upgrade noticeable in FPS like BF3. I remember when I started 1080p gaming I didn't think it could get that much better... But I guess it's just one of those things you have to see for yourself.
> 
> Thanks!!!


Hello and welcome to the forum.
6 ms can't really be felt but keep in mind the way people test them vary and in reality tests seem to show it's 11ms (although not that Catleap is cheating their numbers; when testing different monitors of this caliber with the same testing method as other monitors, Catleap does very well). 11ms still can't really be felt but you know... some people are super picky. Like, OCD picky. IMO I notice no difference between 1-15ms response times, lol.

The 2703 and Q270 have different stand. If memory serves me right, the 2703 has the better stand. They have different looks. The 2703 version you posted has tempered glass. If you get pretty unlucky, you could have a few dust particles trapped behind the extra glass they've got but it's not an issue for me. You can always take it off if worst comes to worst.

The thing for these monitors (personally) isn't the increase in resolution, although that's definitely a factor. it's the color and vibrance. People tell me in my review to "send them a video or picture". Doesn't work perfectly because it's limited by my webcam and your monitor's own ability to display color, lol. You can imagine what a larger screen is like but it's hard to imagine a jump from a TN matte to an IPS glossy. You can look at one picture from an old monitor, don't think twice, show it on this monitor and BOOM, it's beautiful. When my mom used to live with me, she'd sit down and stare at my desktop wallpapers (it changes every 60 seconds).

It's a little bit like a SSD or mechanical keyboard. Before you get it you're like bah, it's fine for me already. Then you get it you think it's awesome. Then you get a little bit used to it but once in a while you stop and think about how awesome your new part is. Then you use a friend's computer and you rage at him for how slow Windows boots, how mushy his keyboard feels or how bad the color is on his monitor.







That kindda feeling.

I mean, I totally understand that people want to spend most of their budget on GPUs for fancy graphics but what's the point if you're seeing shoddy color coming out via your monitor? Anyways, good luck on purchase.


----------



## mrpetebojangles

Wow, thanks for the thorough response, really helpful. So I did go ahead and get the first linked display.

This is what I'm upgrading from http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236059, which has been a fine display, but I'm definitely looking forward to the monitor. So it seems, from what I've been reading, is that I'll be getting about the same frame rate on BF3 at 2560X1440 with no AA (unnecessary) that I'm currently getting at 1080 with 4x MSAA. If that's correct, even if I'm getting slightly less frames I'll be very happy with the trade off.

Yea, so looking forward to it. Went ahead and got the 3 yr warranty as well... never know. Another member of this site was informing me of the almost equivalent offering from QNIX which he/she preferred and stated the QNIX ismore overclockable? I'm not sure if I'll be adjusting my refresh rate to 120hz anyways, as my current monitor is running 60hz and I don't think my 680 could push that many frames above 60fps anyhow. Any opinions on that? I looked into it, didn't see as many reviews, but for the most part they well all positive as well, but I seemed to read about more defect issues. So I just ended up going with my gut and going with the Catleap and I guess I hope I get lucky and don't have dust behind display, but I think I could tolerate it if only a little.

I'm amazed how relatively inexpensive these displays are. Had I done my research earlier I would of bought one of these a year ago...

Anyways, any color profiles I should download or things I should get once the monitor arrives?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpetebojangles*
> 
> Wow, thanks for the thorough response, really helpful. So I did go ahead and get the first linked display.
> 
> This is what I'm upgrading from http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236059, which has been a fine display, but I'm definitely looking forward to the monitor. So it seems, from what I've been reading, is that I'll be getting about the same frame rate on BF3 at 2560X1440 with no AA (unnecessary) that I'm currently getting at 1080 with 4x MSAA. If that's correct, even if I'm getting slightly less frames I'll be very happy with the trade off.
> 
> Yea, so looking forward to it. Went ahead and got the 3 yr warranty as well... never know. Another member of this site was informing me of the almost equivalent offering from QNIX which he/she preferred and stated the QNIX ismore overclockable? I'm not sure if I'll be adjusting my refresh rate to 120hz anyways, as my current monitor is running 60hz and I don't think my 680 could push that many frames above 60fps anyhow. Any opinions on that? I looked into it, didn't see as many reviews, but for the most part they well all positive as well, but I seemed to read about more defect issues. So I just ended up going with my gut and going with the Catleap and I guess I hope I get lucky and don't have dust behind display, but I think I could tolerate it if only a little.
> 
> I'm amazed how relatively inexpensive these displays are. Had I done my research earlier I would of bought one of these a year ago...
> 
> Anyways, any color profiles I should download or things I should get once the monitor arrives?


Color profiles: Check the original post in this thread.
Overclocking: If you actually care for it, you're only real option is to buy an Overlord Tempest which carries a big premium. All the other monitors overclock so little it doesn't matter. There is a discontinued Catleap version 2B that also does 120hz but those cost even more than Tempest.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Color profiles: Check the original post in this thread.
> Overclocking: If you actually care for it, you're only real option is to buy an Overlord Tempest which carries a big premium. All the other monitors overclock so little it doesn't matter. There is a discontinued Catleap version 2B that also does 120hz but those cost even more than Tempest.


The Qnix and Xstar all OC to 120hz lol..


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OneGun*
> 
> The Qnix and Xstar all OC to 120hz lol..


Didn't read anywhere that guarantees 120hz.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkwizzie*
> 
> Didn't read anywhere that guarantees 120hz.


The overlord or the Catleap 2b also don't guarantee 120hz...These monitors are being OCed you can never guarantee what they will hit hz wise..Mine does 120hz no problem..
Read this..

http://overlordcomputer.com/blogs/news/7384176-the-overclock-overview
And here is all the Qnix and Xstar owners and what OC they achieved..

http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star


----------



## mrpetebojangles

No, I didn't read that either, again this is what was said to me by a member, which I stated.

Looking forward to it!


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpetebojangles*
> 
> Wow, thanks for the thorough response, really helpful. So I did go ahead and get the first linked display.
> 
> This is what I'm upgrading from http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236059, which has been a fine display, but I'm definitely looking forward to the monitor. So it seems, from what I've been reading, is that I'll be getting about the same frame rate on BF3 at 2560X1440 with no AA (unnecessary) that I'm currently getting at 1080 with 4x MSAA. If that's correct, even if I'm getting slightly less frames I'll be very happy with the trade off.
> 
> Yea, so looking forward to it. Went ahead and got the 3 yr warranty as well... never know. Another member of this site was informing me of the almost equivalent offering from QNIX which he/she preferred and stated the QNIX ismore overclockable? I'm not sure if I'll be adjusting my refresh rate to 120hz anyways, as my current monitor is running 60hz and I don't think my 680 could push that many frames above 60fps anyhow. Any opinions on that? I looked into it, didn't see as many reviews, but for the most part they well all positive as well, but I seemed to read about more defect issues. So I just ended up going with my gut and going with the Catleap and I guess I hope I get lucky and don't have dust behind display, but I think I could tolerate it if only a little.
> 
> I'm amazed how relatively inexpensive these displays are. Had I done my research earlier I would of bought one of these a year ago...
> 
> Anyways, any color profiles I should download or things I should get once the monitor arrives?


I think you already got one but these monitors are gorgeous, i use and play games with it 90% of the time... the only time I don't use it and use my benq 120hz monitor is when I play bf3 or another online fps. I definitely notice a difference in the input lag and refresh rate.


----------



## moose51789

I'm coming here in hopes someone has had the same issue. I've had 3 of the catleaps now for months now and recently one of mine is being stubborn. The power button when i hit it sometimes starts blinking like orange and does it sometimes for 2 minutes sometimes for 3 hours and sometimes will actually power on then and sometimes just go back to red. Could anybody recommend what might be wrong? bad power brick or something on the board itself? Its driving me nuts!


----------



## mrpetebojangles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *p33k*
> 
> I think you already got one but these monitors are gorgeous, i use and play games with it 90% of the time... the only time I don't use it and use my benq 120hz monitor is when I play bf3 or another online fps. I definitely notice a difference in the input lag and refresh rate.


Well, I'm really hoping this monitor does well in BF3, that's my main application where this guy will be used. My current LCD is also 60hz 2ms and I do just fine owning people, so if it's similar to that with a much better picture, I'll be very happy.


----------



## Dravagun

Just touching base after the problems I had with my monitor. I sent of back to green-sum and he paid the shipping. Very professionally handled. He sent a new one back that got here within something crazy fast like 3 days. Zero cost to me and I have a 100% working monitor now. Highly recommend him to others.


----------



## mrpetebojangles

I'm glad to hear that Dravagun.

My monitor should hopefully arrive any day now, again I got the tempered glass 2703 model. Anyways, I just had a couple questions.

I know it seems like it's been covered time and time again, but can I slightly overclock the 2703? I have a GTX 680 and I'm reading conflicting reports of the monitors being OCed to 65hz-100hz, and then others of people saying they're not OCable at all. I do understand the (2b?) models could and this is not one of those.

How important is it to install one of the color profiles listed on page one? Make a big difference? Also, I assume the Q270 profiles and 2703 are the same?

Thanks


----------



## iamSneaky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mrpetebojangles*
> 
> I'm glad to hear that Dravagun.
> 
> My monitor should hopefully arrive any day now, again I got the tempered glass 2703 model. Anyways, I just had a couple questions.
> 
> I know it seems like it's been covered time and time again, but can I slightly overclock the 2703? I have a GTX 680 and I'm reading conflicting reports of the monitors being OCed to 65hz-100hz, and then others of people saying they're not OCable at all. I do understand the (2b?) models could and this is not one of those.
> 
> How important is it to install one of the color profiles listed on page one? Make a big difference? Also, I assume the Q270 profiles and 2703 are the same?
> 
> Thanks


The Q270 and the 2703 use the same LG IPS panel but the 2703's are supposed to be a lower quality monitor.
Just look at the price difference of the two models which is a tell tail sign.
None of the 2703's can be overclocked past 67Hz, same with the non-2B Q270's
As far as colour profiles go, many of the IPS panels look slightly different as of the production batches they came from.
I have found both my Q270's, my 2B and my 60Hz 2C looked great out of the box but were slightly different.
Try the colour profiles and see if they suit your screen.


----------



## kiamori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moose51789*
> 
> I'm coming here in hopes someone has had the same issue. I've had 3 of the catleaps now for months now and recently one of mine is being stubborn. The power button when i hit it sometimes starts blinking like orange and does it sometimes for 2 minutes sometimes for 3 hours and sometimes will actually power on then and sometimes just go back to red. Could anybody recommend what might be wrong? bad power brick or something on the board itself? Its driving me nuts!


switch the power bricks, a bad ac/dc can cause this issue. if it's bad you can just get a new one from your local electronics store or on ebay would be cheaper and most likely better quality.


----------



## mrpetebojangles

So I finally got my 2703! It's a great monitor. At first I thought it was perfect with 0 dead pixels until I loaded up BF3, and unfortunately I have a dead pixel a bit to the right of teh center of the screen :/ Very noticeable in it's location... Wish it was anywhere but right in the middle. Oh well!


----------



## gek0ran

Hi,

I have recently converted my Catleap to 120Hz with t he PCB kit. I'm using a single GTX 670 to power it, which doesn't handle the refresh rate too well with certain game settings. I'm considering an upgrade to a GTX 780 2-way SLI.

Does anyone have input on using an SLI setup on a 120Hz Catleap model? Are you limited less than 100Hz with SLI as the summary post suggests?

Thanks.


----------



## kiamori

So I already have a Q270 and its been working great for over a year now. I was lucky enough to be one of the first ones to order and get a 2B at the lower price.. So anyways I ordered a catleap 2703 for an additional monitor, received it today. It powered on I checked it for bad pixels and was happy to see it had none. Powered it off removed the stand in order to mount it on the wall powered it back on and DEAD. All grey display. Took it down it removed the bezel to check for loose internal cable and no luck... Has anyone else seen this issue and is their a fix or should I start the return process?


----------



## RJT

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gek0ran*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I have recently converted my Catleap to 120Hz with t he PCB kit. I'm using a single GTX 670 to power it, which doesn't handle the refresh rate too well with certain game settings. I'm considering an upgrade to a GTX 780 2-way SLI.
> 
> Does anyone have input on using an SLI setup on a 120Hz Catleap model? Are you limited less than 100Hz with SLI as the summary post suggests?
> 
> Thanks.


There is an Nividia pixel clock unlock patch that works for SLI as well. You can find all the drivers on 120Hz.net I game at 120Hz rock-solid on my 2B Extreme with my Titan SLI.


----------



## gek0ran

@RJT

Very helpful, thanks a lot. I'll go check it out.


----------



## OneGun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gek0ran*
> 
> @RJT
> 
> Very helpful, thanks a lot. I'll go check it out.


They patcher and anything you will need is here..

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Forum-Monitors


----------



## omgmovieslol

Got a Q270. Keep getting green blinking LED error. Running a GTX 770 under Windows 8. Tried reinstalling drivers and doing a clean install of them. Different DVI cable didn't change anything.

It seems to be an nVidia driver issue. It'll work fine under Windows after uninstalling the drivers, and it works fine under a hackintosh OS X install. Just after installing the nVidia drivers (320.18 and 320.48), once it gets past the windows boot logo, screen blacks with the green blinking LED.

Any idea or suggestions on what to do?


----------



## DyslexicChciken

I am thinking of getting the yamakasi catleap, but I have a HD 5870 cypress XT graphics card. It mentions here that my graphics card does not support the yamakasi monitor(the purple graph in the image section):

http://www.amazon.com/Yamakasi-2560x1440-S-IPS-Quad-monitor/dp/B008RVS1LE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1373888958&sr=8-2&keywords=yamasaki

My graphics card:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814161301

I have read the specifications and find that my graphics card has two DVI outputs. I came here for confirmation if my HD 5870 cypress XT can or cannot actually support the yamakasi monitors, anyone know?


----------



## kevinsbane

The HD 5870 will work with the Catleap. You may have trouble with non-native resolutions, such as in BIOS, but otherwise, it works fine.


----------



## Focus182

Just got my Catleap today







no dead or stuck pixels, just a tiny bit of back light bleeding at the bottom right but its barely noticeable even on a totally black screen. Pretty much a perfect display, lucky me.

Just a heads up, i bought from a less known/new seller on ebay called tgvmall. Seems like he actually checked the screen before sending it to me. I found a hand written label that said "Perfect" on the inside of the resealed box.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Focus182*
> 
> Just got my Catleap today
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no dead or stuck pixels, just a tiny bit of back light bleeding at the bottom right but its barely noticeable even on a totally black screen. Pretty much a perfect display, lucky me.
> 
> Just a heads up, i bought from a less known/new seller on ebay called tgvmall. Seems like he actually checked the screen before sending it to me. I found a hand written label that said "Perfect" on the inside of the resealed box.


That's good to know, I'm looking to buy my 3rd in a few weeks.
What kind of price did you pay and what was the final price with Tax?


----------



## Focus182

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hamy144*
> 
> That's good to know, I'm looking to buy my 3rd in a few weeks.
> What kind of price did you pay and what was the final price with Tax?


I paid £240 for the monitor (perfect pixel option) but i have not had my tax invoice yet since FedEx deliver without the need for me to pay first.

The sender, without me asking, declared the item at $202 dollars though (133 pounds) that should just be under the duty charge so i'm probably just looking at 20% VAT on 133 pounds and a FedEx handling fee. the whole cost will probably come to somewhere around £280.


----------



## Hamy144

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Focus182*
> 
> I paid £240 for the monitor (perfect pixel option) but i have not had my tax invoice yet since FedEx deliver without the need for me to pay first.
> 
> The sender, without me asking, declared the item at $202 dollars though (133 pounds) that should just be under the duty charge so i'm probably just looking at 20% VAT on 133 pounds and a FedEx handling fee. the whole cost will probably come to somewhere around £280.


Thanks for the info.


----------



## tino1317

I am thinking about buying one of the new 27' catleaps IPS displays but it will be used with a Clevo P150SM laptop with a AMD 8970m in it. I see how every add for a catleaps monitor says they don't work with laptops but after scanning this thread it seems like a number of people have got them to work. The 8970m supports dual link DVI with HDCP and has a max resolution 2560x1600 while using that connection. It looks like this monitor will work with my laptop but I just wanted to get some feedback here before I purchase one. Thanks in advance for any help.


----------



## kevinsbane

I don't see the DL-DVI compatibility on your laptop specs... it has a DL-DVI port?


----------



## tino1317

Yep


----------



## kevinsbane

If it is an Dual Link port, then yes, it will work with your laptop.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mackereland*
> 
> It looks like Korean IPS monitors are moving to their new models.
> 
> Here's some information. (just names, rather than infos.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE
> -> YAMAKASI CATLEAP DS270 SE
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270
> -> YAMAKASI CATLEAP DS270
> 
> ACHIEVA SHIMIAN QH270-LITE
> -> ACHIEVA SHIMIAN QH2700-LITE Edge
> -> ACHIEVA SHIMIAN QH2700-LITE Edge Thunderbolt (Says it has a thunderbolt port, hopefully there's no problems with Macs.)
> 
> CROSSOVER 27Q LED
> -> CROSSOVER 27Q BLACKTUNE
> 
> The bezels are now slimmer and their looks are quite different to previous models. What do you guys think about the new ones?


there not selling them in the US yet?


----------



## Mendax

Just received my second Catleap. It came in black and not white........


----------



## BoredErica

How do I switch between default monitor profile and Scribbydagreat's native profile so I can compare differences?


----------



## olli460

Hello,

I've read a bunch of these pages and decided to take the risk and buy a White YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE, As i can't find anywhere in UK that sells a decent white monitor.

my current 24" dell is wall mounted and want to do the same with the Cat Leap, i read everywhere that it does have vesa holes, You just need to dismantle them abit and ive seen the tutorial in the first post on how to do it, ive never dismantled a monitor but hoping it will be reasonably straightforward.

However when i messaged the person i bought it from on eBay "TA Planet" he said it doesn't have VESA mount holes... Is he just saying this as he doesn't want it taken apart or will it actually not have any vesa mount holes?

Little worried as ive already ordered it.

Thanks


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olli460*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I've read a bunch of these pages and decided to take the risk and buy a White YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE, As i can't find anywhere in UK that sells a decent white monitor.
> 
> my current 24" dell is wall mounted and want to do the same with the Cat Leap, i read everywhere that it does have vesa holes, You just need to dismantle them abit and ive seen the tutorial in the first post on how to do it, ive never dismantled a monitor but hoping it will be reasonably straightforward.
> 
> However when i messaged the person i bought it from on eBay "TA Planet" he said it doesn't have VESA mount holes... Is he just saying this as he doesn't want it taken apart or will it actually not have any vesa mount holes?
> 
> Little worried as ive already ordered it.
> 
> Thanks


My experience so far there has always been mount holes but don't quote me if you don't get it.


----------



## ShakeRx

I just got mine in a few days ago. The mount holes are there, but as the tutorial would indicate they're an extreme hassle to make accessible. My wife helped with parts (I never fully unplugged the inner cables) and the extra hands helped quite a bit in holding everything together while I removed screws.

ScribbyDaGreat -- thank you so much for the tutorial. Simply awesome.

I would note that the screws holding the panel to the back assembly in mine were black - not silver. This may cause some confusion b/c there are, indeed, silver screws nearby - don't remove these.

My only complaint with the monitor is the piano finish on the bezel. It's far too reflective for my tastes. I was considering removing it (yet again) and spray painting it with a matte black. Anyone try this yet?


----------



## Hukkel

After reading the opening post I started searching for one on Ebay.com. I kinda want a multi input one but I can only find white ones. I want a black one.


----------



## Elgnisse

Hi all
Been having my monitor for some time now after first getting a DOA from Green-sum he quickly gave me a replacement. Great service!
However now my screen is acting up. At first it was just some occasionally green lines occurring only after long use when there was a lot of bright colors on my screen. Now it's almost a permanent 2 inches wide vertical green line in the middle of my screen. I can make it dissapear by filling the picture with dark colored areas. See image for understanding the problem.


I have tried all of the usual suspectes:
- Drivers
- Cables
- Power brick
- Different graphics card
- Different computer even
- Win XP/7/8

So far I'm guessing the problem is with the monitor itself, but I'm no expert. If anyone of you could give me some feedback on what the problem could be, I would appreciate it greatly.

Oh btw, this is my first post on this forum


----------



## kiamori

Just want to follow-up with a purchase I made, I ordered a Yamakasi 2703 from bigclothcraft that was dropped and the box was damaged by UPS and just left at my doorstep. it was packed well, and you could not see the box damage until after you removed the layer of foam bigclothcraft wrapped the box in.

After opening the unit the display was detected but the screen was just black but lit with solid power light display.

I contacted bigclothcraft, took a few photos of the unit and the damage to the box and they took care of everything, UPS called and scheduled a pickup and 4 days after they picked up the monitor bigclothcraft had a new unit already to me via DHL.

I was extremely impressed with the professionalism of this seller and this being my second Yamakasi monitor I wanted to share my experience with you all.


----------



## shaddie

Hello all -- Another Catleap owner and I are in need of some help. Short version: we damaged our boards and we really need some good pictures from a revision D-910 Rev. 1.1 board.

I'm not sure how old a D-910 1.1 is -- but I ordered my monitor in August of last year.

This is really good picture of what we need.



This stuff is right beside the DVI connector so if anyone has their Catleap open for a minute please take a picture and try to get the part number.

I got a nice monitor mount and tightened the screws into the VESA mount without realizing the screws were causing the board to ground out.

Thank you all. We really appreciate your help!


----------



## moowarcow

I just recieved my monitor yesterday. I saw some strange fireworks affect on the screen. It is extremely noticable when watching a movie or when its in a black area.
Heres a video of what I'm talkin about.





The funny thing is... I ordered the "Perfect Pixel". They should've seen this... I wonder how do they test their monitors...


----------



## Hukkel

Wow that is annoying, if that doesn't warrant a rma I don't know what does.


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Wow that is annoying, if that doesn't warrant a rma I don't know what does.


Ya i contacted them, but they aren't there til monday korean time.


----------



## mum0

Has anyone heard anything else from the new Yamakasi 27" models, the DS270/SE? Ebay sellers and some korean websites are claiming that they are AH-IPS displays but after searching for possible lgdisplay panels none match up to the specs listed in green-sum's ebay listing, or the korean websites listing, specifically the response time of 6ms, the 10bit color, and the brightness of 440cd/m2.

I have looked in Witech's website and have only found two references to the DS270 models in two Korean user manual PDFs, but the specs also don't match up and AH-IPS is nowhere mentioned in the manuals. The actual monitors aren't even in the product section of the website, where the Catleaps and the 30" Leonidas, etc. come up.

A korean website reviewed the monitor, and mentions the AH-IPS panel but I don't think they actually opened it up to check.

Could it be a scam, or is it more likely that the specs are just loosely measured? I am thinking of buying one, but before I commit I would prefer to hear from someone who may have already bought one or knows a little bit more about them.


----------



## xedjflowx

i had read tons of posts on this thread carefully before ordering one and received my monitor just yesterday.

i had talked to green-sum expressing my concerns for ordering a monitor overseas. things like i was aware of the problems the monitors may have and that i didn't want to go through the hassle if anything were to happen. i got the q271 with speakers the perfect pixel version and that is exactly what i got!

luckily for me, i got a perfect screen. no dead pixels, no stuck pixels, no backlight bleed .. very happy with my purchase

looks like in the q271 they tried to address the shortcomings of the q270 such as:
- flimsy stand - the stand on the q271 is still flimsy but shorter and closer to the desk making it a bit less flimsy as opposed to the q270 models i've seen
- super glare - the q271 now has a matte screen (green-sum told me before ordering that i could get a glossy one if i wanted as well)
- only dual dvi - now has hdmi!

also, i've found the buttons on the bottom left to have cheap build quality, but hey, they work and have been able to mess around with the brightness, contrast and saturation, as well as the sound from the speakers it has.

note that the speakers to me were just a freebie. i wasn't really expecting much from them at all and lo and behold they sound absolutely terrible. not a problem though as that's where my studio monitors come into play


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mum0*
> 
> Has anyone heard anything else from the new Yamakasi 27" models, the DS270/SE? Ebay sellers and some korean websites are claiming that they are AH-IPS displays but after searching for possible lgdisplay panels none match up to the specs listed in green-sum's ebay listing, or the korean websites listing, specifically the response time of 6ms, the 10bit color, and the brightness of 440cd/m2.
> 
> I have looked in Witech's website and have only found two references to the DS270 models in two Korean user manual PDFs, but the specs also don't match up and AH-IPS is nowhere mentioned in the manuals. The actual monitors aren't even in the product section of the website, where the Catleaps and the 30" Leonidas, etc. come up.
> 
> A korean website reviewed the monitor, and mentions the AH-IPS panel but I don't think they actually opened it up to check.
> 
> Could it be a scam, or is it more likely that the specs are just loosely measured? I am thinking of buying one, but before I commit I would prefer to hear from someone who may have already bought one or knows a little bit more about them.


i hope someone with some information could response to this post. you have a good point.


----------



## ggp759

I have a yamakasi monitor. After plugging it in the DVI-I input on my gpu(by mistake I was cleaning the pc) now i have white vertical lines across the screen. They are very thin like those that appear on old CRT tvs scan lines maybe. The screen also is slightly blue. Is there a way to get rid of them? I tried changing resolutions, refresh rates, DVI cables etc but no dice. the monitor was never overcloked. Any thoughts? Or just throw it away? Thanks.


----------



## olli460

i got my monitor on Monday and opened up the box and it was missing the power adapter the black brick thing. Emailed the seller i got it from and after explaining 3 times what i was missing he sent me another one out and it arrived today however after plugging it in it won't turn the monitor on.

The little light on the power supply isn't lighting up, Should it?


----------



## Timu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olli460*
> 
> i got my monitor on Monday and opened up the box and it was missing the power adapter the black brick thing. Emailed the seller i got it from and after explaining 3 times what i was missing he sent me another one out and it arrived today however after plugging it in it won't turn the monitor on.
> 
> The little light on the power supply isn't lighting up, Should it?


Yep, it has to light up to know if it works, sounds like you need a replacement for that.


----------



## olli460

Getting annoying now, The seller isn't replying to me now either. Got this lovely monitor sitting here and no way to use it









Is there anywhere in the UK to get these power supplies?


----------



## xedjflowx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olli460*
> 
> Getting annoying now, The seller isn't replying to me now either. Got this lovely monitor sitting here and no way to use it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there anywhere in the UK to get these power supplies?


You should tell us all the name of the seller. But to remind you, you should give them a few business days to answer. You posted he wasn't responding 8 hours ago, where in Korea, they are off of work at that time, and possibly don't go back in until Sunday depending on where it is.


----------



## olli460

Hey,

Yeah hes replied today but he never understands what im saying, always gotta repeat myself 2-3 times lol.

The replacement power brick only came in a plastic bag with no bubble wrap, ive noticed there is a small crack on the plastic so it must of been dropped during transit.

I've emailed him back now trying to explain it all again hopefully he understands and will get one sent out to me so i can finally use the monitor.

The seller is ta_planet.

Will update on how he resolves the issues.


----------



## ggp759

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ggp759*
> 
> I have a yamakasi monitor. After plugging it in the DVI-I input on my gpu(by mistake I was cleaning the pc) now i have white vertical lines across the screen. They are very thin like those that appear on old CRT tvs scan lines maybe. The screen also is slightly blue. Is there a way to get rid of them? I tried changing resolutions, refresh rates, DVI cables etc but no dice. the monitor was never overcloked. Any thoughts? Or just throw it away? Thanks.


Sorry for spamming but someone has any idea about this? Thanks

Edit: The vertical lines am talking about are best visible around the "X" on the red box.


----------



## 6steven9

This a new thing i was just browsing newegg I see these monitors being sold on that site now ??


----------



## Niko-Time

Link them!


----------



## eternal7trance

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0XD8691&Tpk=catleap


----------



## Hukkel

Wow you can buy these from Newegg now?

I am so jealous








Only for US and Canada.


----------



## xedjflowx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0XD8691&Tpk=catleap


only dvi







only downside


----------



## Hukkel

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=yamakasi&N=-1&isNodeId=1

they also have other models.


----------



## olli460

Finally got ANOTHER power adapter and now all seems to be well, Power adapter has a green light, Monitor works fine from what i can see, No dead pixels or bleeding.

Just took it apart and got the back off to remove the stupid stand blocking the VESA mount, Going to get it wall mounted tomorrow. Can't wait to give it a proper try


----------



## The viking

Hi!

I'm an owner of a catleap 27", and I have this problem:
Just connected the monitor to my computer, and I used a DVI-D(Dual link) cable from dealextreme.com. I have used this cable before with the monitor, with awesome results. Clear and beautiful picture and all... But now however, I get this blurry bad display. Does anyone here have a clue what is wrong?

Is this a software issue, or could it be my cable? I researched it online, and its the exact same as pictured online, a DVI-D(dual link) cable.
Hope anyone here knows a good answer!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The viking*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I'm an owner of a catleap 27", and I have this problem:
> Just connected the monitor to my computer, and I used a DVI-D(Dual link) cable from dealextreme.com. I have used this cable before with the monitor, with awesome results. Clear and beautiful picture and all... But now however, I get this blurry bad display. Does anyone here have a clue what is wrong?
> 
> Is this a software issue, or could it be my cable? I researched it online, and its the exact same as pictured online, a DVI-D(dual link) cable.
> Hope anyone here knows a good answer!


Usually when that happens it's the cord. However you can also try tapping the back part of your monitor near the top so if there's anything loose it will help. If all else fails even with a new cord you can always take the monitor apart and make sure the PCB on the back near the top is plugged all the way in.

Mine was loose from shipping and gave me all kinds of strange pictures until I put it back in place. But I also had a bad DVI cord that was sent with the monitor.


----------



## The viking

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Usually when that happens it's the cord. However you can also try tapping the back part of your monitor near the top so if there's anything loose it will help. If all else fails even with a new cord you can always take the monitor apart and make sure the PCB on the back near the top is plugged all the way in.
> 
> Mine was loose from shipping and gave me all kinds of strange pictures until I put it back in place. But I also had a bad DVI cord that was sent with the monitor.


Thanks for a fast reply!

I looked into this thing, and it turns out that one of the pins in this DVI-D(dual-link) cable was pushed too far into the cable itsself, and therefore not getting a proper connection with neither the computer, nor the monitor. Tried a friends new DVI-D(dual-link) cable, and I got a crisp and nice looking picture. Thanks for the tip!


----------



## darun3

Received my catleap Q271 retina ver.1 yesterday but I just can't get it to display anything even the back light doesn't stay on, it only flashes once whenever I turn it ON from the power supply and that all I get. I have tested it on my PS3, Xbox 360 and on my computer with a GTX 780 but no joy. The green light on the power adapter comes on and stays on but the light on the monitor doesn't come on at all. Also it's been detected by my computer, I can see it under Nvidia control panel with all its resolution and also in windows under screen resolution setting but there's nothing on the screen. So is the monitor DOA or something else, also I bought the monitor from greensum been that he's highly recommend but he hasn't reply to my email yet.


----------



## ae-?a

Why did you call it a retina? Anyway I doubt that anything but a computer is going to drive the yamakasi monitor as they don't have a scaler unless your using the one with the HDMI ports? The first thing I would try is another cable. The blinking green light usually means the monitor is on but not getting a signal.


----------



## darun3

Q271 Retina is the model name with 4 inputs DVI, DP, D-Sub and HDMI. links below. Have tried the included DVI-D cable and 2 different HDMI cables but it still wont work. The light is solid green but only on the power adapter and the light on the monitor isn't coming on at all.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110974176551?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## darun3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ae-?a*
> 
> Why did you call it a retina? Anyway I doubt that anything but a computer is going to drive the yamakasi monitor as they don't have a scaler unless your using the one with the HDMI ports? The first thing I would try is another cable. The blinking green light usually means the monitor is on but not getting a signal.


Q271 Retina is the model name with 4 inputs DVI, DP, D-Sub and HDMI. links below. Have tried the included DVI-D cable and 2 different HDMI cables but it still wont work. The light is solid green but only on the power adapter and the light on the monitor isn't coming on at all.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110974176551?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


----------



## 6steven9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hukkel*
> 
> Wow you can buy these from Newegg now?
> 
> I am so jealous
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only for US and Canada.


How do you buy them from canada? I'm canaidian and i can't buy them it's only on newegg.com which doesn't allow canaidian purchase and .ca doesn't have them unless i'm missing something


----------



## moowarcow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ggp759*
> 
> 
> Sorry for spamming but someone has any idea about this? Thanks
> 
> Edit: The vertical lines am talking about are best visible around the "X" on the red box.


I get these vertical lines when windows is restarting or shutting down. I'm still waiting for bigclothcraft to reply my messages on the defective monitor they sent me.


----------



## ggp759

I see. This happened to mine after a year's use so i guess i will just throw it away.


----------



## Niko-Time

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moowarcow*
> 
> I get these vertical lines when windows is restarting or shutting down. I'm still waiting for bigclothcraft to reply my messages on the defective monitor they sent me.


Have you tried a different video card/cable?


----------



## rebarpaj

Hello, I have some problem with my monitor and Ubuntu. My monitor works perfect in Windows but after I installed ubuntu on another (monitor) it's just black and wont work. I have no idea what's the problem might be and would be really thankfull for some help.

I have this monitor but the problem might exist on Yamakasi aswell, basically the same.

http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/27-displays/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rebarpaj*
> 
> Hello, I have some problem with my monitor and Ubuntu.


From my xorg.conf on /etc/X11/Ubuntu 12.04.2:

Code:



Code:


Section "Screen"
        Identifier     "Screen0"
        Device         "Device0"
        Monitor        "Monitor0"
        DefaultDepth    24
        Option         "UseEDID" "False"
        Option         "ExactModeTimingsDVI" "True"
        Option "NoBandWidthTest" "true"
        Option "ModeValidation" "AllowNon60hzmodesDFPModes, NoEDIDDFPMaxSizeCheck, NoVertRefreshCheck, NoHorizSyncCheck, NoDFPNativeResolutionCheck, NoMaxSizeCheck, NoMaxPClkCheck, NoEDIDModes"
        SubSection "Display"
                Depth       24
                Modes      "2560x1440"
                #Modes      "2560x1440_96" "2560x1440_85" "2560x1440_75" "2560x1440_60" "2560x1440"
        EndSubSection
EndSection

My Q270 works perfectly with my 768MB GeForce GTX 460 for 2D and 3D.

If you need a ModeLine, which you shouldn't, then try

Code:



Code:


Section "Monitor"
        Identifier     "Monitor0"
        VendorName     "Yamakasi"
        ModelName      "Catleap Q270"
        DisplaySize     596    335
        HorizSync       30.0 - 80.0
        VertRefresh     55.0 - 95.0
        ModeLine "2560x1440" 241.5 2560 2608 2640 2720 1440 1443 1448 1481 -hsync +vsync
        Option         "DPMS"
EndSection


----------



## CantilopePope

anyone with a ds270 have some color configuration recommendations? the screen was kinda bright by default and you have to fiddle with the settings to get some agreeable results so i was wondering if anyone had some input on this.


----------



## magicase

Ordered a 2B extreme version from GreenSum today. Should arrive in the next week


----------



## Mcbrain

I'm about an hour away from Daegu, S Korea right now and looking for a Catleap. Anyone know any places locally I can go to pick one up?


----------



## brkbeatjunkie

You guys know what the differences are with q270, the q271 and ds270 models? The ds270 is supposed to be slimmer and brighter from what I've gathered and way less reflective.


----------



## p33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mcbrain*
> 
> I'm about an hour away from Daegu, S Korea right now and looking for a Catleap. Anyone know any places locally I can go to pick one up?


You could just order one off gmarket.com and have it delivered to you. When I order things off gmarket and pay before 2pm they are usually on my doorstep by 6pm the next day! No idea about Daegu but I'm sure there is a market or a few in town. In Busan we have a couple but I usually pay more then ordering online so only go there when I need something right now.


----------



## magicase

I bought a 2B extreme monitor and I received it today. The only problem is that it's only 60hz

Is there something I have to do to make it work at 120hz?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *magicase*
> 
> I bought a 2B extreme monitor and I received it today. The only problem is that it's only 60hz
> 
> Is there something I have to do to make it work at 120hz?


2B "Extreme" monitors are 60hz monitors. You need to overclock it to achieve 120hz; try reading the OP in this thread, or check out the OP in the Qnix thread for help on overclocking.


----------



## JayXMonsta

So one of my 3 catleaps has flashing white lines moving around on the screen.. You can only see them on a black screen


----------



## Roman49

Hey there!

I bought a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" a few months ago and tried to remove the stand. After doing so, the monitor did not work anymore. Also I was a bit hasty and damaged the case. As I read that the Yamakasi uses the same panel as the iMac does, I bought an old 27" iMac case and tried to assemble the whole thing. As I did this, the connecter where the flat-ribbon-cable (red marked) fits in broke.

I ordered a new panel from green-sum and assembled everything. Voilá, it works. In the following picture I connected the Yamakasi via _Mini Displayport to Dual-Link DVI-Adapter_ with my MacBook Pro - nVidia GT650M)


Exaggerated by this success I opened the Case again and attached the stand, reassembled it again and.. black screen. The green light is steady and just the backlight works. I think, I connected everything properly.
I tried everything listed in "_Monitor Won't Boot Up (Black Screen)? Check This Out_", but no effort at all.

Hope you guys have any further ideas. Thank you!

*Edit:* I should mention, that I also tried the Monitor on my Win7-PC on a nVidia GTX 560 Ti - unsuccessful.

Following some images that you can get an idea of the construction:


----------



## Juub

The OP says it is fine for gaming and equivalent to a 720p TV due to lack of input lag. So does that mean gaming on that monitor would deliver the same quality as a 720p TV? There's something I must have missed because that's quite terrible. It's twice the res of a 720p.


----------



## zetapulse

Hello,

I'm looking to level up from 1080p, but have 3 questions for starters:

I have a Radeon HD 7900. It appears the compatibility lists haven't been updated, but I assume it will work no problem?
My Radeon has 1 DVI port & 1 HDMI port (& 2 mDP's). Since I't's mentioned I need 2 DVI connections, would using an adapter to convert the HDMI to DVI work?
My main uses will be browsing, reading, videos & design. What is your experience with 1080p videos upscaled to 1440?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zetapulse*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I'm looking to level up from 1080p, but have 3 questions for starters:
> 
> I have a Radeon HD 7900. It appears the compatibility lists haven't been updated, but I assume it will work no problem?
> My Radeon has 1 DVI port & 1 HDMI port (& 2 mDP's). Since I't's mentioned I need 2 DVI connections, would using an adapter to convert the HDMI to DVI work?
> My main uses will be browsing, reading, videos & design. What is your experience with 1080p videos upscaled to 1440?



Your HD 7970 will work, generally without problems
You need a *one* Dual Link DVI port. Your HD 7900 should have one DL-DVI port (unless you have an MSI Lightning 7970, which has 2 SL-DVI ports)
1080p videos at 1440p are fuzzy compared to 1440p video at 1440p. 1080p video at 1440p are very slightly fuzzier at 1440p than at 1080p.


----------



## zetapulse

Thank you.

I heard from another source that MPC-HC has filters that make the upscaling hardly noticable, anybody know anything about this? I'm not the most anal of people so if it's minimal effect I'd go for it.

Also, it's come to my attention that there are currently 3 brands (including Catleap) with similar features & prices. Would anybody have any bare-bones tips on the differences/comparisons? I'm mostly going to be browsing & watching videos, though I game a bit as well.

Finally, this may not even be worth mentioning, but I don't intend to use the monitor stand as I already have a quality mounting arm (Ergotron wooo). Does anybody sell these monitors without a stand & cheaper?

Again, thanks for your invaluable assistance.


----------



## bestwill

Hi,

I've had a Catleap (white, multi) for a couple of months now.

Picture is fantastic, colours great, little to no backlight bleed for me, but I do have one bright sub-pixel (only visible on dark images). I did have the noticeable hum/buzz from the screen displaying bright content.

I've only just got around to mounting on a Monitor arm, so I thought I'd share my experiences.

- disassembly -
I'll be honest; despite decent guidance posted at the top of this thread I had a few struggles based around me not taking the time to understand/think about how it was fitted together before getting stuck in.
First mistake - not turning the monitor over to be face up between undoing the screws and removing the bezel (I'd very wrongly assumed the LCD was attached to the bezel side, so left it face down)
To expand on how it fits together and the method I eventually used - the bezel has plastic clips hooking into the back panel from the inside. With quite large hand, I found it difficult to get my fingers in to apply pressure for the screwdriver prying method.
So.. as the bezel is also pretty flexible, I found that by protecting the screen from scratches with a cloth, I could lift the front, inner edge of the bezel, rotating slightly along the long edge and disengage the clips, releasing the bezel.

One surprise was that the original stand had a crack in it near the top, which was worrying!

- multi version PCB -
For those interested in OC, but can't find a 2b board, my Multi (and I suspect other multi's may) has the 2b board on the panel, albeit, I believe the multi board in the back prevents OC, so the easiest "Frankenstein" model is probably using the back of a base model with the panel from a multi.

- buzz/hum -
While I had the back off, I did some testing and mine was indeed coming from the two 220 chokes on the main board of the panel itself. Mine had no epoxy or hot glue on them.
I was concerned there may be a risk of overheat if I coated them, but having seen someone's photo of them having been factory-coated, I went ahead.
I first tried with some "self mixing" style epoxy (loctite stuff with one nozzle) not to realise there was no hardener coming out, so I mopped that up with tissue paper, then moved on to a small amount of epoxy putty (the stuff you knead dry hardener/epoxy together) which was easy to work into place on both chokes. Once set, there was still some noise but it was reduced somewhat - I had been concerned it would still be audible once re-assembled, but its actually fine - I think the epoxy dampened the loudest hum most effectively, so the audible but has gone now.

- Vesa mount -
I had to make a mod to improve the Vesa mount - I'll explain why...

On first mounting it, I found the monitor felt loose, and looking at the back, the plastic was flexing and the 'screw in' points on the back of the monitor were moving in and out.
On investigation, I found the mount plates in the monitor are 2 thin, flexible pates (one each side, vertically). They are secured in the middle only, by a plastic 'pip' splayed out with heat to stop the plates falling off.
The screw-in points are actually 'taller' than the thickness of the back of the monitor. That, combined with the flexible plates, secured on that central plastic pip as a pivot point means they have a degree of movement once the monitor is mounted, which in turn means the pressure is concentrated rather than spread out on the plastic back when moving the monitor on an arm mount.

My solution: epoxy putty under the mounting plates inside the monitor
- disassemble the back of the monitor to gain access to the mounting plates
- use a Stanley knife to cut the top off the plastic pips that are holding the plates in place
- remove the plates
- prepare epoxy putty (usual safety measures apply when handling the stuff)
- apply 1-2 mm of epoxy putty spread evenly across each plate
- place the plates back into the monitor back panel in the original orientation
- screw this assembly onto your Vesa mount in order to get the thickness of the epoxy set to the same thickness as the screw-in points. (my mounting arm has a removable mounting plate making this nice and easy)
- trim off any excess epoxy and allow it to set
- reassemble the monitor
- it should be a much more stable mount and put less strain on the plastic back of the monitor

- My mount - (monitor arm, not trusty steed!)
I managed to get a bargain Human scale H2 counter-sprung arm on eBay, which is great - had to tighten the ball joint to prevent droop, but otherwise it's perfect, and the screws that come with it are the right length and will not cause the monitor to short.

- When I thought I'd broke it -
On first reassembly, when I moved the monitor on the arm, I got a bunch of lines on the screen. Concerned I may have caused a minor short, or dislodged a dry solder joint, I tore down again and checked every connection and the Vesa mount points. Mount points had plenty of clearance and all connections were well seated, no signs of dry or broken joints. I reassembled and it all looked OK until I move into certain positions again.

Turns out, it was the cable. The supplied DVI cable is very sensitive to stress on the cable near either plug, which is tested when you use the cable management on a monitor arm. I've ensured there's slack and a straight section at both plugs and the problem has gone, but I will be replacing the Cable with a better, longer one.

Hope something in here helps people.
Will


----------



## aaa12585

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zetapulse*
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> I heard from another source that MPC-HC has filters that make the upscaling hardly noticable, anybody know anything about this? I'm not the most anal of people so if it's minimal effect I'd go for it.


This is true.

Out of the box, even without changing settings, the upscaling is fantastic. I Use MPC-HC for everything video/youtube related.

I also have an HD 7970. I was able to reach 114hz, but I keep it at 112hz because I seem to get flickering when the computer wakes up for about 4 seconds. That worries me, so I just downed the hertz a bit. I hear that monoprice 24AWG D-DVI link is a little better for overclocking, so a purchase of that may be necessary in the near future if you plan to reach past a certain barrier for the gold 120Hz.

I haven't reached 120Hz, but the difference is night and day in comparison to how smooth everything moves. (Games, Smooth Video Project, etc.).

Even if you're not looking to overclock, you'll notice a difference from 1080p to 1440p that everything is just in general a LOT smoother looking. Went over to my brother's monitor and, I swear, it felt like I was playing on a 720p monitor.

Can't see myself ever going back. If I did, a little piece deep down inside of me would cry for the rest of my days...


----------



## stuartm666

Ordered the Perfect Pixel DS270 model on Saturday. UPS recons it will arrive on Monday


----------



## oldpiglas

yeah, Got some pics on my phone. Will be happy to join this. thank you


----------



## silver121

Guys I ordered a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE...it arrived yesteday and the first time I fitted it up it worked fine..But now when I tried switching it on the LED does turn green and the PC boots up ( i can hear the booting sounds) but thhe display doesnt come...its just the backlight and a black screen....when I shook the monitor a bit the dispay came back but went again in like five minutes..any fix for this? I saved up money for a loong time to buy this 1440p display and now I'm despereate to get it working again!! any help would be appriciated


----------



## hellomoto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaa12585*
> 
> This is true.
> 
> I also have an HD 7970. I was able to reach 114hz, but I keep it at 112hz because I seem to get flickering when the computer wakes up for about 4 seconds. That worries me, so I just downed the hertz a bit. I hear that monoprice 24AWG D-DVI link is a little better for overclocking, so a purchase of that may be necessary in the near future if you plan to reach past a certain barrier for the gold 120Hz.
> 
> Can't see myself ever going back. If I did, a little piece deep down inside of me would cry for the rest of my days...


I have not had a go an oc yet, might give it a go only got to around 70hz with a 295, but have had a 7970 for a while.
and so true, 1080 looks like rubbish once you go 1440p, i would also cry if i had to go back lol. only thing is every pc you use or screen then seems so bad ha.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silver121*
> 
> Guys I ordered a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE...it arrived yesteday and the first time I fitted it up it worked fine..But now when I tried switching it on the LED does turn green and the PC boots up ( i can hear the booting sounds) but thhe display doesnt come...its just the backlight and a black screen....when I shook the monitor a bit the dispay came back but went again in like five minutes..any fix for this? I saved up money for a loong time to buy this 1440p display and now I'm despereate to get it working again!! any help would be appriciated


Could be a dodgy lead, is it connected fully at both ends? ive had similar but turning my pc off has sorted it.


----------



## silver121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hellomoto*
> 
> Could be a dodgy lead, is it connected fully at both ends? ive had similar but turning my pc off has sorted it.


Whats a dodgy lead and what should be fully connected at both ends? sorry if I'm sounding like a noob


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silver121*
> 
> Whats a dodgy lead and what should be fully connected at both ends?


A lead is a cable or a leash. A dodgy one is one with something wrong with it.

Check that your Dual-link DVI cable (which you bought to replace the one which came with the monitor) is firmly connected to your monitor and video card. There is a very good change this connection is the source of your problems.


----------



## effeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stuartm666*
> 
> Ordered the Perfect Pixel DS270 model on Saturday. UPS recons it will arrive on Monday


Welcome to the club! And welcome to myself!

I got a perfect pixel DS270 2 weeks ago from BCC. Highly satisfied so far. The brightness is almost eye killing. Picture's quality is astonishing! My only "negative" observation actually, I don't know if it's just mine or a general flaw for that new model and design from Yamakasi but at the top center the front glass pops out while the monitor is on, probably the top part of the plastic cabinet got "loosen" from the heat coming from within, all that at normal room temperature 72F . I'll need to glue it for sure! From my personal point of view I don't see that issue as a reason to ask the seller for an exchange or something.

I joined the club to see and learn if that particular new model can overclock.

Cheers to all here !









( take note that my mother tongue is French, I do my best writing English)


----------



## silver121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJCxZ0*
> 
> A lead is a cable or a leash. A dodgy one is one with something wrong with it.
> 
> Check that your Dual-link DVI cable (which you bought to replace the one which came with the monitor) is firmly connected to your monitor and video card. There is a very good change this connection is the source of your problems.


I first thought that too but then I bought another dual link DVI cable and the problem's still there!
Should I return the monitor?


----------



## ariakas46

I'm interested in ordering a DS270, but there's a general lack of information on the model.

1) Is the base/stand removable for VESA mounting without having to take the whole monitor apart?
2) How sturdy is the cabinet itself?


----------



## effeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ariakas46*
> 
> I'm interested in ordering a DS270, but there's a general lack of information on the model.
> 
> 1) Is the base/stand removable for VESA mounting without having to take the whole monitor apart?
> 2) How sturdy is the cabinet itself?


Responses:

Question 1- *edited* I thought we just needed to pull the stand out of the cabinet like my old Samsung but I think I'm mistaken, It really seems the cabinet needs to be opened like in this video, that QNIX has the very same stand and we can see the unmounting here -> 




Question 2- All connectors behind mainly the DVI-D and HDMI are presented out of the cabinet directly from the main board in a "loosen" fashion without any reinforcement upon the plastic cabinet itself, making them somewhat vulnerable to cable's weight. My monitor, that only concern my case so far, at the top center the front glass pops out very easily as soon as the monitor is operating. The plastic cabinet seems to get loose by the heat from within and making the front glass popping out, 1mm out. For sure I'll need to glue it, not nice..... I'd say that the front glass might easily pops out anyways on top from side to side.

We all know that inside those babies is the highly praised LG panel but offered into a very basic cabinet for the "lowest" price possible. Those negative points described here are IMHO very bearable considering the price we pay and I'm still highly satisfied.

A funny thing is that the front glass has the top center hole for the camera....

( take note that my mother tongue is French, I do my best writing English)


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silver121*
> 
> I bought another dual link DVI cable and the problem's still there! Should I return the monitor?


The choice is yours. You could try opening the monitor, finding and reseating whatever component is loose. This could be easy and you could put everything back together without breaking anything in the process. There are plenty of examples of people succeeding and failing at this in the thread.

If you aren't comfortable taking that risk, then your best bet is to provide clear information to the seller showing that the monitor is defective and ask for a replacement. You may need to pay shipping to return the monitor.


----------



## silver121

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJCxZ0*
> 
> The choice is yours. You could try opening the monitor, finding and reseating whatever component is loose. This could be easy and you could put everything back together without breaking anything in the process. There are plenty of examples of people succeeding and failing at this in the thread.
> 
> If you aren't comfortable taking that risk, then your best bet is to provide clear information to the seller showing that the monitor is defective and ask for a replacement. You may need to pay shipping to return the monitor.


Took the risk and opened it up and took out all the wires and rewired them firmly but the problem is still there! one thing I did notice is that the silver wire bundle which connects the outside circuit to the panel had some fiber like things bent in an awkward angle from the rest although all the fibers were fully intact.. can this cause the above problem? is there anywhere I can get this wire seprately so I can replace it and give it a try?


----------



## Mutantx

will i have any issues powering this brand with an MSI (ati) r7950? a reseller tells me it may get booting errors


----------



## Mutantx

from peoples experience is this an average display on one of these models ( a year old ) ? and is anything about it fixable (blb etc) ? it looks like dead pixels to me. cheers


----------



## tehjoenas

Beautiful monitor, I got mine last week. No dead pixels, backlight bleed seems minimal, colors are amazing. I do have one question, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if this is normal. On any light/white background I get two slightly darker bands that run parallel to each other and perpendicular to the width of the screen. They are barely noticeable and are actually easier to see out of the corner of my eye. This picture gives a good idea of how subtle it is, just wondering if anyone has noticed anything like this or if there was possibly something I could do:



Honestly, if this is my only concern I'd say I'm very happy. By the way, this is one of the 2703's that are being sold on Newegg.


----------



## ariakas46

Thanks for the info effeks.

Anyone manage to get the stand off of the DS270?


----------



## pythonse

please help..i just bought a q270 se ah ips panel by yamakasi and I lost my sound...its hooked up to the dvi dual link..please any info would be greatly appreciated


----------



## tehjoenas

DVI does not carry an audio signal. If your monitor has built in speakers you will need to plug in a separate audio cable from your computer into the audio input on the monitor, or just use an hdmi cable if your computer supports it (HDMI also carries audio.) If you have external speakers, you will just have to plug them directly into the audio port of your pc.


----------



## effeks

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ariakas46*
> 
> Thanks for the info effeks.
> 
> Anyone manage to get the stand off of the DS270?


You're welcome!

I have 2 questions for you since we bought the same model DS270:

1- What is your all in all appreciation so far?

2- Do you have the same issue as with mine, the front glass popping out the frame on top center?


----------



## pythonse

everything up and working...what a great monitor..some slight back light bleeding but its nothing when gaming...I have the ds270 se model, is there any way to replace the stand? or am I stuck with this, I cant tilt it or raise it but it is tilted back on its own just a little


----------



## ariakas46

I actually got the Crossover 27QW, but it has the same cabinet as the Yamakasi DS270 as far as i can tell.

1 - It's much better built than my yamakasi catleap Q270. The stand is very sturdy and the overall build quality reminds me of my 27" LG monitor. I can't tell the difference between the catleap's 8 bit panel and this new AH-IPS 10bit panel, except that it runs noticeably warmer than the catleap.

2 - No, i dont have the glass problem. The glass panel is flush with the cabinet.


----------



## Humanodude

.


----------



## Ferling

They are selling these on amazon now

*Check it out*


----------



## pythonse

that's where I bought mine incase of a problem and I need to return it


----------



## jehnubis

1.) *Yamakasi Catleap Q270*
2.) *Yamakasi Catleap Q271*
3.) *Yamakasi Catleap DS270*
4.) *Yamakasi Catleap 2703*

Hello all,
Having a bit of trouble figuring out which model to get. I do prefer the latest panel/PCB's (late 2012-early 2013) Glossy/semi glossy screen, no speakers, and no HDMI/VGA port. If you guys can give me a simple/quick summary of each, that would be great. Also, if i missed a model let me know.


----------



## CantilopePope

Can someone help me with overclocking a DS270? I followed the guide in the FAQ (downloaded the Q270 driver, installed it; don't know if it works with this model). Still, no success. I can't even clock it to 70 hz, let alone 100.


----------



## CantilopePope

Is the DS270 even overclockable? Can anyone confirm/deny?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CantilopePope*
> 
> Is the DS270 even overclockable? Can anyone confirm/deny?


No other catleap than the original "2B" run, and the "Extreme editions" by green-sum have been shown to oveclock > 67hz. Does yours go up to 66hz at least?


----------



## th3m3nt4l

Thinking of pulling the trigger on this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-320-SPARTA-S-IPS-32inch-1920x1080-Built-in-Speaker-Tempered-Glass-/221172829230?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item337eed8c2e

I know its 16:9 but the dimensions and specs line up with my current setup very well. While reading reviews I noticed that many complain of a flimsy stand/mount, but i'm not worried about that as I'll be putting it on a vesa mount pritty much immediately

as my other option(s) is something more like this:
http://www.amazon.com/LCD-DISPLAY-ACTIVE-MATRIX-350NIT/dp/B00906JUSI/ref=sr_1_39?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1380066180&sr=1-39

Edit
Or this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CrossOver-320D-Game-King-32-LED-Monitor-16-9-IPS-1920X1080-DVI-/151015496897?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item2329399cc1

Edit: Pulled the trigger on the above because of the Perfect-Pixel option.


----------



## Can it play Crysis?

Bought a tempered glass catleap and really want to remove it. But I've searched and google'd and don't really know a full proper way to remove it.

All i've seen is you get a heat gun, heat it somewhere and use a flathead to pry it off?

Would appreciate any help in removing it,

Thanks


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Can it play Crysis?*
> 
> Bought a tempered glass catleap and really want to remove it. But I've searched and google'd and don't really know a full proper way to remove it.
> 
> All i've seen is you get a heat gun, heat it somewhere and use a flathead to pry it off?
> 
> Would appreciate any help in removing it,
> 
> Thanks


If it's attached the way i remember reading it, yeah, you'd use a heat gun to heat up the glue or whatever is holding it to the bezel of the monitor. Make sure you don't melt the bezel.

You would use the screwdriver (I would use a plastic wedge so as not to damage the bezel or crack the glass) while heating it to gently pry the glass from the bezel.


----------



## Little Big Alex

Hey, i was thinking about overclocking my Yamakasi Q271, but i don't know if it's even possible. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks


----------



## dante`afk

Where can I buy those monitors within the US?

I suppose shipping time from Korea is 3 weeks + ?


----------



## Bamakore

no it only took 3 days for me to get my 2703 model from green_sum and the monitor works very well no problems with it and cant find any dead pixels but i do have a MSI 680GTX Lightning Edition Graphics card that I'm using with it Battlefield 4 on Ultra is Epic with this thing


----------



## dante`afk

Can you OC the 2703?

I ended up with the Qnix due to overclocking reasons (better than 2703 i believe)


----------



## combinesd

Hey Guys,

I bought a Q270LED back in June-ish and had it for about a month before the screen started fading to black like in this video:




After unplugging and moving the ps to a different wall outlet and restarting and updating drivers I never figured out quite what fixed the issue, it kind of just went away.

Now its back 3 months later, I went out and bought a high quality DVI-D DL and hooked it up but it continued to fail after a 30s to a minute or so. I've just restarted everything and cleared the device from device manager and i'm about 15 minutes in without it failing (its lasted long before but still failed in the end) So i'm not sure if its fixed and if it is once again I won't know what has fixed it.

If it wasn't my DVI cable I'm hoping its the PS but I thought I'd ask for ideas

IT REALLY baffles me that the issue went away for over 3 months, and since then I've gone to 2-3 LAN parties in which i've brought the monitor with no issue and now its back and I can't really pinpoint whats changed to make it start this again.


----------



## kiamori

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Can it play Crysis?*
> 
> Bought a tempered glass catleap and really want to remove it. But I've searched and google'd and don't really know a full proper way to remove it.
> 
> All i've seen is you get a heat gun, heat it somewhere and use a flathead to pry it off?
> 
> Would appreciate any help in removing it,
> 
> Thanks


Don't use a heat-gun, you will melt the bezel. At most use a hair dryer.

They come off really easy in most cases, it's just double sided rubber tape holding it on. Mine started to come off a month after I purchased back in march 2012 and the price was only a few $ more so I went for it figured it would be extra protection for shipping.

Ended up getting flawless 2B's from "red-cap" on the bay that are still going strong today.

Only thing was the wimpy stand so I ended up putting them on wall-mount swivels that I got off of the egg.


----------



## gomson

Hiya guys..,
Has any anybody bought a monitor from overclockmonitor, like this monitor..:

http://www.overclockmonitor.com/yamakasi/yamakasi-catleap-q270-2b-extreme-oc-ips-pf.html


----------



## andrew110

Why would you pay that price? Why not just get a Qnix or X Star?


----------



## gomson

Honestly..initially for the 120hz capability but now on reflection...I'm thinking I should've just bought one of the ones you mentioned...


----------



## andrew110

Yikes you spent that much on it? You can OC the X star and the Qnix usually up to 120hz.


----------



## libertysky

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *andrew110*
> 
> Yikes you spent that much on it? You can OC the X star and the Qnix usually up to 120hz.


i thought earlier in this thread, people said the only ones that go up to 120hz are the Yamakasi 2B's and Tempests.

btw, since Yamakasi has a 30" Leonidas with the swivel-tilt stand and seemingly overall better build quality, is it a better buy than the Catleap or do you still recommend the Q270?


----------



## JayXMonsta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roman49*
> 
> Hey there!
> 
> I bought a YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" a few months ago and tried to remove the stand. After doing so, the monitor did not work anymore. Also I was a bit hasty and damaged the case. As I read that the Yamakasi uses the same panel as the iMac does, I bought an old 27" iMac case and tried to assemble the whole thing. As I did this, the connecter where the flat-ribbon-cable (red marked) fits in broke.
> 
> I ordered a new panel from green-sum and assembled everything. Voilá, it works. In the following picture I connected the Yamakasi via _Mini Displayport to Dual-Link DVI-Adapter_ with my MacBook Pro - nVidia GT650M)
> 
> 
> Exaggerated by this success I opened the Case again and attached the stand, reassembled it again and.. black screen. The green light is steady and just the backlight works. I think, I connected everything properly.
> I tried everything listed in "_Monitor Won't Boot Up (Black Screen)? Check This Out_", but no effort at all.
> 
> Hope you guys have any further ideas. Thank you!
> 
> *Edit:* I should mention, that I also tried the Monitor on my Win7-PC on a nVidia GTX 560 Ti - unsuccessful.
> 
> Following some images that you can get an idea of the construction:


haha wow that's amazing


----------



## JayXMonsta

still have all 3 Q270s I bought in 2012 running great!


----------



## zenmanic

HELP! My monitor went black awhile ago.

I am pretty adept at troubleshooting so I deduced an internal cable must have come loose. Symptoms before opening the monitor. Laptop connected to Catleap q270 dual link dvi only, no speakers, no glass. The monitor showed green light like it was connected. Laptop showed good connection in settings. Mouse would disappear as if the monitor was connected. All signs indicated that the monitor was connected except the monitor showed black. More specifically the monitor AND backlight were on. Just there was a black picture on the screen.

I carefully opened the monitor.

Oh and for others opening their monitor I noticed the tutorials showed a flat head screw driver. You will surely mar your case with a flat head screw driver. Use a small 1.5" putty knife instead that has been previously used. The previously used putty knife will be even thinner than a new store bought one. Mine is pretty razor thin. i bought mine at a thrift store, so basically already used.

Upon closer inspection of the LVDS (the eDP cable to be specific) cable connected to the back of the LG panel, i found a 30pin cable connected to a 40pin ipex connector. The cable literally fell out when I pulled the tape up. This has been my huge dilemma. How has this monitor been working for about a month owned by me and many more months by previous owner with the 30pin literally shoved into the 40pin slot. After some more research I found out there are different LG 27" lm270wq1 with 30pin and 40pin connections. Looking above at a recent post looks like that guy had a 30pin connection on his LG panel. I did not change my panel. And it was working previously until suddenly just black. I somehow had a working monitor with a 30pin into a 40pin connection.

For those that have opened their Yamakasi Catleap q270 I ask you, Is there a tiny adapter that I am not seeing. Maybe it fell to the bottom of the housing and I never saw it. Is it truly a 30pin shoved into a 40pin slot just in the right position.

Ignoring the 40pin ipex dilemma on the back of my LG 27" lm270wq1-sdb3, I considered replacing with Overlords over clocking PCB panel. This just bypasses my problem and changes the 40pin connector to the OC version which has two new plugs versus the one 40pin. That solution will cost me $200 plus. So not really something I want to spend money on. I also might not see much over clocking since my laptop GPU will not send much more HZ or not change at all.

Anyone wanting help with monitor issues must report several things:

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
4. Tried any of the other things listed above?

1. GPU is Nvidia Geforce GT 650M 512MB running on a Macbook Pro 15" Mid 2012
2. Yeah current drivers.
3. Yes different dual link cables have been tried.
4. only one output.
4. Most things above that applied.

Please no comments about reinstalling my software. The problem seems prettying directly related to the 30pin into the 40pin connector.

Thanks anyways for any help. Crossing my fingers that someone can help me. Heres some pictures below.


----------



## zenmanic

Does anyone have a broken Catleap q270 that they want to sell? I could use the board from the lcd along with the controller board which has the dvi connector on it. I would really like to fix my Catleap.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Thinking about getting one of these bad boys, convince me why I should please.


----------



## zenmanic

BECAUSE THEY'RE AWESOME.

The color gamut is superior. The price is cheap. The resolution is just right for crisp text.

*The caveats*

Yamakasi Catleap went very cheap on all the other components. Just about everything. Plastic housing. Weak stand. Cheap power supply with cheap wire cable (which breaks easily if bent too much). If you are one to set up the monitor and never move it or touch it then this may be all moot. But if you're one to want to change the brightness constantly, which many are for reasons like bright rooms to dark rooms, then you might just pull all of your hair out after finding that you will have to use two hands to accomplish this. One to stabilize the screen. And one to push the button that needs too much force to press.

So really considering all that. Considering your situation, all those points might be moot. The screen is definitely worth the money.


----------



## Anthos

Hey everyone, quick question.
Does anyone use this monitor with a gigabyte z87 motherboard that has a 3d uefi bios? Does it work? Because from what i've seen around the internet, people seem to have a problem getting both of them to work together.


----------



## JTHMfreak

Well my son will touch the monitor as much as he can, so weak stand prolly a bad idea. How does the cat leap stack up against a qnix 2710?


----------



## Timster1

I purchased a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 LED on 7/15/2012. Mine has now failed. Flashing/Fading in and out repeatedly.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timster1*
> 
> I purchased a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 LED on 7/15/2012. Mine has now failed. Flashing/Fading in and out repeatedly.


Better call Tim's computer fix and open the monitor to see if all the connections are still seated correctly. Also it could be a bad DVI cable.


----------



## zenmanic

And Tim's computer fix contact information is ??? LOL.

So no one has any idea why a 30pin connection was shoved into a 40pin connection on the inside of my q270 cat leap.

Nor does anyone have a broken cat leap or any other brand that holds the LG monitors that I can buy cheaply to use for parts. Ideally I would like to find someone that smashed their screen and I can still use the controller board off the back of the monitor.


----------



## Timster1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Better call Tim's computer fix and open the monitor to see if all the connections are still seated correctly. Also it could be a bad DVI cable.


Yeah.... Problem persists with both hdmi and DVI... Moved monitor from my gaming rig to my work bench and problem persists there also. I plan on cracking it open. Really think it is a PCB issue....


----------



## Timster1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zenmanic*
> 
> And Tim's computer fix contact information is ??? LOL.
> 
> So no one has any idea why a 30pin connection was shoved into a 40pin connection on the inside of my q270 cat leap.
> 
> Nor does anyone have a broken cat leap or any other brand that holds the LG monitors that I can buy cheaply to use for parts. Ideally I would like to find someone that smashed their screen and I can still use the controller board off the back of the monitor.


Contact information? Did you see my sig?
EDIT: Did not realize no links in sigs rule..... DOH!

I will check connections but I really think I have a PCB issue.


----------



## ScribbyDaGreat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Timster1*
> 
> I purchased a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 LED on 7/15/2012. Mine has now failed. Flashing/Fading in and out repeatedly.


your input PCB is dead/dying.


----------



## Timster1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ScribbyDaGreat*
> 
> your input PCB is dead/dying.


Have these PCB's been sourced?

I have a message in to bigclothcraft about parts for repairing my monitor.


----------



## digitalforce

Hey all, I have a Catleap Q270 from last year that works just great and looks gorgeous. That being said, after seeing 120hz in action, Daddy want









So, what is the best options for a IPS 27" 120hz these days? The 2b's are going for $900 -- That is too steep. Please help.


----------



## Wiz33

Anyone got one of the newer QH2711 with HDMI 1.4a? It shows that the HDMI 1.4a will support 2560x1440 on the brochure pages showing the inputs. Anyone tried it?


----------



## Rokk

Answer to Wiz's question : HDMI in this unit still is at 1920x1080 according to
http://www.witechit.co.kr/eveboard/view.php?bbs_id=customer04&doc_num=204&PHPSESSID=4fa84994dbde190af6a610f733011d44.
Use chrome to translate...

My only concern is if this one can be oc'd....Anyone know anything bout that round here ?


----------



## uberkrieger

Hi,

I've had my Catleap for about a year now. Last night I moved it from a VESA wall mount to a VESA desk-clamp mount. It worked for a few minutes, until I tried to tilt the screen. There was a bit of a popping noise (maybe from the new, tight hinge on the mount rather than the monitor) and the monitor went off. I think it probably shorted on the mounting screws because I noticed afterwards that the new mounting plates are slightly thinner than the old ones, and let the screws go farther in to short the PCB. I knew about the potential for this problem, but didn't think about it until it was too late...

Now, it doesn't turn on at all. Indicator LED doesn't do anything at all. Power brick LED is on.

I'm going to test the power adapter today to make sure it's supplying 24v, but if it is working, what are my options for fixing the monitor? Can I simply swap out the shorted PCB with a replacement? (Where can I get a replacement?)

Thanks


----------



## uberkrieger

I checked the power adapter and it's fine. Took the monitor apart and didn't see anything wrong with the PCB. For that matter, it looks like there is a metal layer between the VESA mount screws and the PCB unlike other's I have seen. I'm really not sure what to do. Any ideas?


----------



## tarmaan501

Does anyone know where I can get a replacement Logic board for the panel & cable between logic board and main center board? Un-overclockable version


----------



## -iceblade^

Why are these things called catleaps?


----------



## Qbex

Hey Guys,
Anyone here paired two r9 290 or 290x with overclocked Catleap ?
I was toying with idea to sell my Titan and get pair of those "hot" bad boys.
But after failed experiment a while ago with two gtx 680 ( different make/ bios etc) causing screen going out of synch on higher then 60Hz (run mine at 100Hz) refresh rates I'm worried of loosing overclocking speeds of my Catleap going crossifre route.
Cheers


----------



## Koehler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-iceblade^*
> 
> Why are these things called catleaps?


Probably to do with the 120Hz overclocking of the 2B model?

Just a guess though lol.


----------



## Rokk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wiz33*
> 
> Anyone got one of the newer QH2711 with HDMI 1.4a? It shows that the HDMI 1.4a will support 2560x1440 on the brochure pages showing the inputs. Anyone tried it?


I actually just had one delivered today (QH2711)

The specs I mentioned from their site were actually incorrect.
The HDMI handles 2560x1440 just fine using a hdmi 1.3 (insignia) cable that i ganked outta my home theatre to test with.

I dont think you can overclock this model oob...(maybe with windows but not on OSX10.9) It is stuck @ 60hz but has a really impressive picture.
I havent gotten the dvi-dual link to work yet. My Hackintosh totally freaked out when i tried, so I have probably have to do a dsdt edit .

I ordered one of the pixel perfect offers from Dreamseller on ebay.
No dead pixels but got 2 dead speakers....(go figure)

Even with the dead speakers this unit is quite impressive. It totally takes over the room . (and i have 5 other lcd's up in here)

There's also a "DCP" mode in the settings. When i turned it on everything seemed to get brighter but i have no
idea what it is and turned it back off for the time being.


----------



## Michaelo

I'm looking to get one of the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor but am totally confused with the options not to mention who to buy from...

Could someone recommend a seller/link please...

I have limited experience with ebay so could anyone tell me what's the story re postage, is it extra or included?

I've even toyed with the idea of buying a faulty one and fixing it should there be one available...
Mike


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> I'm looking to get one of the Yamakasi Catleap Monitor but am totally confused with the options not to mention who to buy from... Could someone recommend a seller/link please...


Since reading over a thousand pages of this thread is a bit much to expect, I suggest that you work backwards and look for the posts from folks describing their buying experiences. There are a few popular sellers.
Quote:


> I have limited experience with ebay so could anyone tell me what's the story re postage, is it extra or included?


Postage, returns and other such details should all be described in the ads, with other terms covered by eBay's policies.

If you're looking for a monitor with an LG IPS panel, then take a look at the "Black Friday" and "Cyber Monday" sales going on in the U. S. of A. at, for example, NewEgg and Monoprice. Even with shipping to Ireland, you may see a better deal now that Catleap prices are rising while other IPS monitor prices are falling.


----------



## Michaelo

Thanks you for that reply, appreciate you didn't tell me to keep reading as it oft the case, not the best eyesight ...
I did read several hundred but I guess I should have started at the end and worked back...

Re postage, some of the post do include postage at $100 bucks, others at $50 and more without any costs, hence my confusion...

I'll take your advice and check out NewEgg and Monoprice...
Mike


----------



## myDogTaz

Hey everyone, I've got a Yamakasi Catleap myself, 27" pixel perfect (no speakers version), and absolutely love it!

Quick question- I'm thinking of picking up a Yamakasi for my wife to use at work. Her work computer has an NVIDIA Quadro K600 that has a DVI-I and a Display Port. Will this graphics card support the monitor?

http://www.amazon.com/NVIDIA-Quadro-K600-DDR3-Graphics/dp/B00BLTE8HK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1386216323&sr=8-1&keywords=nvidia+quadro+k600

Its description says it has 1GB RAM and supports max resolution of 3840x2160, so I'm assuming *yes*, but I wanted to get some input before I buy a monitor she can't use









Also, does anyone know if I'll have to pick up any converters? Might as well shop for those too if I need them.


----------



## JayXMonsta

Still have my 3 de-bezeled Q270s (1 Basic, 1 SE, 1 HDMI) running great









Still have the middle monitor flickering for the first minute after I turn it on, and the mini display port adapter from Monoprice over heating :-/

Nothing has gotten worse though and 2560x1440 over HDMI at 48hz via my Asus laptop is still working amazingly.

Just thought I'd check in lol, will post photos of my desk after I get my leds in the mail and put another coat of paint on my desk after finals









Going to try and get 2560x1440 working over HDMI on my new Macbook Pro Retina, we will see though... maybe I'll have to pickup another adapter, hopefully whatever brand I get this time won't overheat.

Also going to try and put a fan on the monoprice adapter to! maybe lol.

Will keep you guys updated and post final photos of my 3 Q270 Catleap Hackintosh desk before the years up


----------



## bjgrenke

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JayXMonsta*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Still have my 3 de-bezeled Q270s (1 Basic, 1 SE, 1 HDMI) running great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Still have the middle monitor flickering for the first minute after I turn it on, and the mini display port adapter from Monoprice over heating :-/
> 
> Nothing has gotten worse though and 2560x1440 over HDMI at 48hz via my Asus laptop is still working amazingly.
> 
> Just thought I'd check in lol, will post photos of my desk after I get my leds in the mail and put another coat of paint on my desk after finals
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Going to try and get 2560x1440 working over HDMI on my new Macbook Pro Retina, we will see though... maybe I'll have to pickup another adapter, hopefully whatever brand I get this time won't overheat.
> 
> Also going to try and put a fan on the monoprice adapter to! maybe lol.
> 
> Will keep you guys updated and post final photos of my 3 Q270 Catleap Hackintosh desk before the years up


Do you have photos of the bezel removal process? Thinking of doing this to my Catleap, but not sure where to have the PCB and how to attach a block for VESA mounts and stuff.


----------



## ahimoth

I'm trying to find two monitors to go with my current Q270 does anyone have experience with other Korean panels and the Yamaksi Q270? The discontinuing of the Q270 really sucks. The Q271 seems to be significantly more expensive and sort of defeats the purpose of buying cheap Korean Panels.


----------



## Dani82

Hye! I have Q270 SE 2B, my pcb is damaged, anyone know where to buy a new one?


----------



## cresny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokk*
> 
> I actually just had one delivered today (QH2711)


Can this monitor's viewing angle be tilted? From pictures it looks fixed.


----------



## llantant

Im hopeless with monitor settings.

Anyone out there who could help me out here.

I have a Q71. I have set D65 Profile as stated as this seems to be the best.

Problem is I cant decide what to set the actual monitor menu at.

Currently at 45 Brightness, 35 Contrast and I switched the Gamma Option to On (it was on on OFF)
oh and its set to 6500k. Still seems a little harsh on the Eyes.

What does everyone set it at?

I know people may say set it at what you find the best but I really dont even know where to properly start and im a little OCD about this kind of thing.


----------



## llantant

Actually I think COlours look better with Gamma off


----------



## cresny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokk*
> 
> I actually just had one delivered today (QH2711)
> 
> There's also a "DCP" mode in the settings. When i turned it on everything seemed to get brighter but i have no
> idea what it is and turned it back off for the time being.


How is the brightness adjustment on this monitor? I've read that some (particularly Shimian) link contrast to brightness, so contrast gets "crushed" when you lower brightness (



). Can you tone down this Yamakasi without losing picture quality? From what I've read, only the Crossovers have brightness reliably implemented. http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1791036&highlight=multi+input But I think Crossovers look ugly so I'm hoping this guy is wrong.


----------



## Rokk

DCR = Dynamic Contrast Ratio on this unit.

I would say they are linked but don't have a meter to support that.
DCR helps a lot when you drop the brightness but I don't use it because its near perfect at factory. Really...

All I did was run the Apple Display Calibration in Mavericks (with naked eye) and its fantastic.

My desk is surrounded with high end Samsung's and everyone takes notice of the Yamakasi

I push it with a XFX Radeon HD7950 (HDMI port)

Oh and that reminds me...
Another guy asked in same post.

With HDMI 1.3 cable it would only do 1920x1080
I replaced that with a HDMI 1.4 rated cable and it does the full 2560x1440


----------



## cresny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokk*
> 
> DCR = Dynamic Contrast Ratio on this unit.


Cool, thanks for the info, it was enough to put me out of my obsessive researching misery and go ahead and buy one (I also ordered the "pixel-perfect" version, don't like surprises). I'll report back here after I get it.


----------



## muscleking

did anybody mention the QNIX thread is beating this one now? i just noticed after keeping track of both threads.

must had a huge impact on the catleap sales due to that newer technology PLS. same price, overclock better for 300 bucks., sharper screen, no glare due to weak anti glare coating, uses less power, all win win win. i had both and got rid of catleap now. didn't lose money selling the catleap which is good.

catleap is pretty solid. that one is over 1 year old daily use and no fail. i think the qnix PLS is 6 month now. but much harder use by my mom who stays home all day typing stuff.

can't wait the 4k display end up going same route like these korean monitors. it's like "oh, one dead pixel, 1/3rd the price", so maybe can buy the 4k 31 inch one for less than 1000. video card won't catch up for a long time. by then my eye may not be good to look at the small pixels lol.


----------



## RazorLV

I have this YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 MULTI in white color. Ordered perfect pixel version for 390$ with free express shipping.

Been using it every day for 7+ hours for 6 months and have no problems with it. Multi connection works perfect also.

So i decided to order another one.. ***! Why it costs 656.73$ now >< Was i lucky i got it for 390$ 6 months ago?


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RazorLV*
> 
> Why it costs 656.73$ now >< Was i lucky i got it for 390$ 6 months ago?


Basic economics of supply and demand. My Q270 cost $289.99.

The good news is that while the direct-from-Korea-through-eBay deals are getting more expensive, there are more IPS monitors appearing on at least the domestic market in the U. S. of A. at decreasing prices, as you can see e.g. at NewEgg. Not many of them are WQHD (2650x1440) thanks to the lingering popularity of FHD (1920x1080)*, but there are a few 27" WQHD and 30" WQXGA (2560×1600) models from Monoprice at decent prices**.

There are some PLS monitors at decent prices, too.

At the risk of looking like a shill for NewEgg, readers may be interested in the seller 27 Korea Monitors on NewEgg.

*[I'm writing this on my LG 27EA33 FHD IPS monitor.]
**[$315.21 with code 15OFF2 until 22 Dec 2013 for a 27" IPS-ZERO-G Slim Monitor WQHD 2560x1440 - Dual Link DVI, VGA.]


----------



## Rokk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *muscleking*
> 
> did anybody mention the QNIX thread is beating this one now? i just noticed after keeping track of both threads.


I considered the Qnix but if you look at Greensum or Dreamsellers ebay reviews you'll notice thats the one people complain about most..
I saw that as a red flag and stayed away. Im glad you got a good one though. Not everyone was so lucky judging by the neg feedbacks.

Honestly speaking...Overclocking the display on a pc or mac to me is kinda of pointless...
Even @ 60hz I dont think ive ever seen a motion blur in WOW or when watching a blu-ray.....
Maybe thats because I use good video cards and always have 200+ fps at my disposal , I dunno....Correct me if im wrong about the benifits


----------



## m4drx

Hi guys,

I could really do with your help.

I bought 3 x Catleap Q270 60hz monitors from Greensum around a year or so ago. I run all three from a ASUS 7970 DCU2 using one DVI-D and 2 with Bizlink active Displayport to DVI-D adapters at 7680x1440 resolution.

Recently one monitor decided not to work. It would start up and the image would fade away after a few seconds just leaving the backlights on. Now it simply just registers but no image at all, only backlights and a solid green from the indicator once plugged in.

I have tried;

Switching DVI-D cable from working monitors
Swapping power supplies from working monitors
Only plugging in this monitor
Dismantling and unplugging all connectors and plugging in again
New drivers
plugging in after bootup

I'm fairly certain at this point that the PCB has simply died but I can't seem to find spares or any solution. I can swap out the PCB with one of the other monitors but I am essentially certain at this point it is the PCB. What I want to know is what my options are or any known solutions to this?

As mentioned, the monitor powers up, registers with the PC and displays a solid green light but wont display an image, only backlights. I know this isn't a graphics card/driver issue as the other two monitors work fine both alone and together. This one does not.

Any help appreciated.


----------



## Rokk

Did you get the extended Square Trade warranty ?
If not he can send it back for repair but you will have to pay the shipping...and a fee (doesn't hurt to ask)

I have seen posts about people actually swapping boards and using different ones
to overclock. This may not be what you want it for but is certainly an option if your positive that's the problem.

I personally would send it back for repair, but I'm very vanilla


----------



## m4drx

Just checked and unfortunately they are now out of warranty. I'm more than happy to swap over the board with another one but do you know where thy can be bought?


----------



## Rokk

A guy on 120hz.net says green sum sent him a replacement board. He just had to cover the cost


----------



## Timster1

Ebay seller bigclothcraft in Korea is shipping me a replacement board for my 60hz Catleap. I will post back when I get everything up and running again.


----------



## packerbackermk

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY1802369

Is this the monitor that is getting all the buzz? Overclockable, fantastic picture for price, ect.
Just wanted to make sure before is bought.

Or this one?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2RY0X71183


----------



## cresny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokk*
> 
> I actually just had one delivered today (QH2711)
> 
> The specs I mentioned from their site were actually incorrect.
> The HDMI handles 2560x1440 just fine using a hdmi 1.3 (insignia) cable that i ganked outta my home theatre to test with.
> 
> I dont think you can overclock this model oob...(maybe with windows but not on OSX10.9) It is stuck @ 60hz but has a really impressive picture.
> I havent gotten the dvi-dual link to work yet. My Hackintosh totally freaked out when i tried, so I have probably have to do a dsdt edit .
> 
> I ordered one of the pixel perfect offers from Dreamseller on ebay.
> No dead pixels but got 2 dead speakers....(go figure)
> 
> Even with the dead speakers this unit is quite impressive. It totally takes over the room . (and i have 5 other lcd's up in here)
> 
> There's also a "DCP" mode in the settings. When i turned it on everything seemed to get brighter but i have no
> idea what it is and turned it back off for the time being.


I just got mine, same seller, pixel perfect. I agree with everything Rokk said. I have an Apple Thunderbolt display at work. For the most part I can't tell the difference between that and the Yamakasi. Mine also has dead speakers. I do hear a little "click" sometimes when using on-display settings though, so I guess at least there is a speaker in there. Still it's a pretty shady coincidence, if you want this monitor for the looks and somewhat decent stand consider it a speaker-less model. Also, for some reason I needed to set NVRAM on my macbook pro before I could get 2560x1440.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Admiral Mudkipz*
> 
> It's been about 2.5 months since I've bought my monitor that it is finally showing problems, namely the issue of fading to black. The monitor works fine for a couple seconds and then the display becomes lost and then the entire thing just gradually fades to black. However, the backlight is still on and the blue light on the bottom right hand corner is still on, which indicates that the monitor is still on.
> 
> I've tried a new DVI cable to no avail (the one I was previously using is a 24 AWG DVI-D cable from Monoprice). I've ordered a new power brick from eBay, in hopes that that will fix the problem. I will keep you guys updated. In addition to this, I've also tried turning the monitor on/off, replugging in the power supply, pulling the DVI cable in/out, cold rebooting the computer, and plugging the DVI cable into another DVI port. The monitor will turn on and then fade back to black again.
> 
> If the new power supply doesn't work, I will be very disappointed about the fact that after 2.5 months of working fine, the monitor decides to die on me. I purchased no warranty because I didn't think I would need it, but now, I wish I did.


Fast forward 14 months from this post. Just wanted to give you all an update. I have since fixed the issue. Apparently it was a couple loose cables that I must have moved around when attempting to fix the backlight bleeding after opening up the monitor. After securing them down with some electrical tape, this issue has now since disappeared.

However, about six days ago, I believe I zapped the PCB (due to ESD) to the point where it doesn't work anymore. There was some small amount of charge from the DVI cable to the DVI port every time I had attempted to plug in the cable. This also happened with the other end of my cable, which was connected to the graphics card. The graphics card is now dead but I am RMA'ing it.

Anyway, the monitor doesn't read any signal input and the light on the bottom right is now a purple...not a red or blue color like usual. I think the monitor is now broken and unfortunately, I am long past the warranty (bought this in summer 2012). I have since replaced it with the Crossover 2755AMG Black Tune monitor.

I welcome any suggestions on how to fix my old Catleap. I would not mind having two working 27" if possible.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Getting ready to order one, right meow. How is the colour accuracy? I have a calibrator, but I'm wondering how it is out of box.


----------



## Admiral Mudkipz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Getting ready to order one, right meow. How is the colour accuracy? I have a calibrator, but I'm wondering how it is out of box.


From what I recall, the color was a little too green for my taste. I had to tone down the green gamma a little bit.


----------



## THE_Shev

Hey everyone,

Think i bought a Yamakasi Q270Led WQHD about 1,5 year ago. Love it very much.
Since i want to go to a triple monitor setup for sim racing, i am looking for some advice.
Been doubting to get 3x 27" 120hz (Benq, Acer) but made the choice to go for the 3x 2560x1440 resolution. (present 1 @80hz)

Been browsing the net for the same monitor but all prices are up by about 100euro or more
Found some cheaper brands like X-Star, Qnix but saw that these are QHD monitors. PLS-monitor

Dunno if thats a big difference compared to WQHD, as mine is a S-IPS.

So better go 3 same monitors.........??????????
Plz give me your advice.


----------



## Michaelo

Bought a faulty Yamakasi Catleap and now I need t fix it...

Anyone know where I can get a schematic or can help me identify D7 and U11 on this PCB?

This is a picture of the PCB:

Close up of parts:

The small image is the bottom right section of the PCB (power/video in board), components D7 and U11 are smoked so I can't read the part numbers... If you have access to one of these PCB's, could you please examine the D7 and U11 and post the part numbers please...

SMD devices often use a generic numbering system making identification difficult (if not impossible), so I may need to purchase another board assuming I can't get hold of a schematic or parts list... can anyone give me a contact where I can purchase a new one?

If you have one of these boards spare (working or faulty), let me know how much you want for it...

*Update*
We have identified D7 & U11 thanks to fancymonitor and forum.s-manuals.com...
Going through the posts it appears we have at least 4 identical boards(same revision) with the exact same problem, in all cases U11 is blown... D7 doesn't appear to be damaged in the other three...

*Parts identified*
U11 = AT24C02 (http://www.atmel.com/Images/doc5126.pdf)
D7 = 1SS184 (http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/29779/TOSHIBA/1SS184.html)

Both components combined (should you need both), will cost less than $1 but you will need good soldering skill to replace SMD components... mind you, we still have not found the cause so as these are very inexpensive I'd recommend you buy a few just in case


----------



## networkn

I am not too happy. I appear to have a watermark on two of my 3 catleaps now. Both on the right hand side. They look like a water stain.

Any way to get rid of them by chance?

Example here:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/vhrcwe0bknbv0w1/IMG_20131103_170208.jpg


----------



## Ferling

I am almost positive that this chart is either wrong or maybe outdated? Couldn't any card with a DVI-D Dual Link with a max resolution of 2560x1600 be compatible?


----------



## Dohman

Hello! I recently bought an overclocked Catleap Q270, but when I'm running 120hz, and certain windows, like chrome or a folder is open. (Generally any program that runs in an ordinary window), lots of flickering horizontal lines will form in the middle of the screen.

When steam is taking all the screen space, there is no problem, but with ordinary windows programs, it can sometimes be rather annoying to look at.
Does anyone know what I'm talking about?

I had to enter tight timings manually in the Nvidia control panel when I created the custom resolution, it didn't work on automatic.
Here's the timings I used: http://puu.sh/6db8V.jpg

I have no idea what could cause this, other than perhaps the drivers, or my settings. I've tried updating my drivers, but it still happened.

I will greatly appreciate any help you can give









When I run 90hz, there's no problem either by the way.


----------



## Marcsrx

So I just upgraded to Windows 8.1

I was running @ 100hz on Win7. Is it the same steps to OC in windows 8.1?


----------



## Marcsrx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Marcsrx*
> 
> So I just upgraded to Windows 8.1
> 
> I was running @ 100hz on Win7. Is it the same steps to OC in windows 8.1?


Never mind, found the thread over @ 120hz.net

http://120hz.net/archive/index.php/t-975.html?s=fa1f712c8bbae967cb38e045fa109389


----------



## Michaelo

I'm waiting of a replacement board and it's taking quite a bit of time, so where do I get the over clocked boards and any idea of price?


----------



## tpavlik

Yes, If your card supports dual link and 2560x1440, you are fine. I am currently running my Yamakasi and another 23 (VGA) from a puny GT 420. Have a GTX 760 on the way.


----------



## smimon

Hey guys - hope someone can help me out with this, I tried searching the thread in case someone had already answered, but it's a little large.

I've just got a 301 Sparta (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121243961284) - monitor is great, but the only buttons which do anything on the bottom edge are the brightness up/down ones. The other buttons are unlabelled - they are perhaps blanks that are used on a different model.

I'm looking for some sort of on screen display, where I can adjust contrast, colour temperature etc.

Can anyone point me in the right direction?

Thanks for any help


----------



## HOTDOGS

When did these jump up to $600?! ANybody know where I can still get one for $300 in Canada?


----------



## Tacoboy

Right now it looks like I'm going to order the Yamakasi DS270 IPS SE 27" 2560X1440 monitor for $330, from this seller on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141014647239?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
Unless someone can point me to something better, in roughly the same price range.


----------



## pythonse

that's who I bought mine from...I also live in the bay area..not feeling ur avatar either ugh


----------



## Tacoboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pythonse*
> 
> that's who I bought mine from...I also live in the bay area..not feeling ur avatar either ugh


My avatar picture is me back in 1985, at the UC theater, in Berkley.


----------



## pythonse

alrighty then


----------



## Mofoo

Hello kind people
I'm stuck on a problem with my Catleap and I've tried everything to no avail, so I've come here for help. It's happened before, but after a new video card, I can't get past it.

Setup:

Motherboard: MSI P67-GD65 latest BIOS version (this mobo is about 3 years old now)
Seasonic X750 power supply
Video Card: Sapphire R9 290 Tri-x
Catleap Q270 DVI-D purchased about a year ago
secondary old Dell 22"
The problem is if I have the Catleap plugged in during boot, BIOS just hangs right before the MSI logo appears. Black screen with a blinking cursor.
If I plug the monitor in afterwards, no problems at all.
The weird thing is, while I did have this problem on my previous video card (6950), I managed to get it stable (I had another 22" plugged in through mini displayport).
I've tried switching cables, switching ports and reset my BIOS to factory settings.
Clearly it is something at the boot level and not OS. I just have no idea if there would be any settings in BIOS that could affect it.
Could the port that my video card is in have anything to do with it?

Any ideas?
Thanks

EDIT: I answered my own question. I moved the video card to the other PCI slot (further away from CPU) and this resolved it. No idea why though.


----------



## Tacoboy

Just found out it's Korean New Year from Jan 30th until Feb. 2nd, so any monitor ordered from Korea might not ship out until afterwords.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokk*
> 
> Answer to Wiz's question : HDMI in this unit still is at 1920x1080 according to
> http://www.witechit.co.kr/eveboard/view.php?bbs_id=customer04&doc_num=204&PHPSESSID=4fa84994dbde190af6a610f733011d44.
> Use chrome to translate...
> 
> My only concern is if this one can be oc'd....Anyone know anything bout that round here ?


Thanks for that precision
I'm actively looking for a model that WILL allow 2560x1440 via HDMI
It's to be run on an HD4600/740M laptop

I read some models work @ 55Hz setting up a custom resolution.

Do we know of which korean 27" monitors support this?

EDIT:
I'm emailing sellers all around, so far I'm "told" these will work.
. First FS270YF STRONG 27" Slim Monitor AH-IPS 2560x1440 DVI-D HDMI
(manufacturer link)
...

Will update as I get more answers


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

Hi all








today i get yamakasi 2b extreme oc
i have 7970 in quad crossfire
trying to overclock it, cant pass 81hz
try by CRU and PowerStrip from first page FAQ
and one more thing - i cant find driver for monitor if it can be the reason

what the problem is? what do you think?


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

and one more thing
as you know from the video manual about overclock




there is photo of original box
http://s43.photobucket.com/user/slothmonke/media/DSCN0668.jpg.html

but in my i have Q270SE*3D*2LP0097

does it mean green-sum fulls me and send some 3d instead 2b monitor ?


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

and it crashes 3d without monitor driver and refresh rate over 60hz
can anybody link driver for Yamakasi catleap q270 2b extreme oc please ?

if anybody have it with 79xx crossfire, tell about your overclocking experience please


----------



## Jedson3614

I believe this is the monitor that is best for gaming right because its pretty much guaranteed to hit 120HZ ?


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAN1MAT0R*
> 
> and one more thing
> as you know from the video manual about overclock
> 
> 
> 
> 
> there is photo of original box
> http://s43.photobucket.com/user/slothmonke/media/DSCN0668.jpg.html
> 
> but in my i have Q270SE*3D*2LP0097
> 
> does it mean green-sum fulls me and send some 3d instead 2b monitor ?


"2B" is nothing more than a moniker denoting a Yamakasi Catleap that has a specific board that was common during early 2012 - specifically, February. These series of monitors were denoted as "2B", since they were manufactured in February of 2012. Later batches were not serialized this way, but the "2B" moniker stuck. So your monitor is definitely not a "2B" monitor, as it was not manufactured then. It may be one that has the overclockable board though. Should have it, especially if you can go to 81hz. However, quadfire is notoriously finicky, so that may be the source of your issues. Try doing it with a single card first, then work your way up through the crossfire configurations to see if it's not your quadfire setup.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jedson3614*
> 
> I believe this is the monitor that is best for gaming right because its pretty much guaranteed to hit 120HZ ?


No, it's pretty much guaranteed not to hit 120hz. Only the "extreme editions" sold by greensum for $800 are overclockable. Otherwise, get a Qnix/Xstar, as those are known to be overclockable and are cheaper by far.


----------



## Jedson3614

yeah but I was on ebay and I think you hit it on the head I could of swore I saw a catleap monitor that was like a gaming edition that was guaranteed to hit 120 hz but it was like 800 bucks. It looked way better than the Qnix and other models.


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevinsbane*
> 
> get a Qnix/Xstar, as those are known to be overclockable and are cheaper by far.


they are NOT 120hz
they can DISPLAY *only 60*
thats the reason they are cheap


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

and my yamakasi 2b extreme run 3d only at 60hz without driver
i cant found driver anywhere ...


----------



## Jedson3614

They are 60 but i know for a fact that they can be overclocked to 120hz, its not guaranteed its like anything with overclocking its just pure luck, but still possible. There are many threads about this already on this very forum.


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

no they cant display 120 even after "overclock"
no free cheese for half price

guys link driver for 2b extreme please


----------



## Jedson3614

I dont know where 3d came from but I wasn't even getting into that I meant just the monitor its self can do 120, and we were talking about Qnix. Listen to what you said my monitor can only do 60 when in 3d, if you are talking about something like 3d visions than that would make sense if you understand how the tech works. 120 /2 = 60 60 per eye most people , like me who have a 3d monitor mostly don't use 3d and just take advantage of the faster refresh rate mine does 120 hz, I have a asus monitor.


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

i mean any game ba 3D
not 3d vision
if game starts pc reboots or even with blue screen
at 60hz all is ok
but i dont want 60hz monitor fo 1000$


----------



## Jedson3614

Your not doing something right the catleap qnix and that other brand are not gaurunteed to hit 120 hz but many models have when overclocked and are very stable please look at this ocn article.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star:thumb: Also look at this


----------



## Rokk

Infrabasse

The Yamakasi Black Label HDMI works at 2560x1440 @ 60hz with a 1.4 rated cable.
Some of the specs from that link were old or incorrect.

I haven't been able to get it to budge from 60hz on refresh rate though.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAN1MAT0R*
> 
> they are NOT 120hz
> they can DISPLAY *only 60*
> thats the reason they are cheap


That of course explains why my Qnix is running at 120hz. Of course they're overclockable. It's been proven conclusively that they do. And I haven't claimed they run at 120hz - not even the 2B Catleap (yes, I have one of those too!) Claims it's a 120hz monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAN1MAT0R*
> 
> no they cant display 120 even after "overclock"
> no free cheese for half price
> 
> guys link driver for 2b extreme please


see above. Yes they can. There is also no specific drive for it! You do need to patch your AMD drivers though. See thishttp://www.overclock.net/t/1384767/official-the-korean-pls-monitor-club-qnix-x-star thread for more details.

All multi input 1440p IPS/PLS monitors skip frames above 60hz. The single input Qnix and Xstar can and have been proven to overclockable, and this beyond the shadow of a doubt.


----------



## Infrabasse

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rokk*
> 
> Infrabasse
> 
> The Yamakasi Black Label HDMI works at 2560x1440 @ 60hz with a 1.4 rated cable.
> Some of the specs from that link were old or incorrect.
> 
> I haven't been able to get it to budge from 60hz on refresh rate though.


Unable to budge upwards of 60Hz or downwards as well? Apparently most laptops only sport a single link HDMI port which basically goes to 1920x1200 but can be pushed to 2560x1440 @ 55Hz via custom resolutions. They can't run 60Hz.

If that Yamakasi can't run 55Hz, it won't work for me. Any chance you could test 55Hz? For science


----------



## Jedson3614

Guys it should work at 60 and if it wont budge o well its not GUARANTEED to, some people who get lucky can push it way up.


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

120 Hz DONE
Yamakasi Catleap Q270 27' 2560*1440 IPS
Dual DVI 22AWG cable
7970 Quad Crossfire @1225mhz 1.3V

http://abload.de/image.php?img=9nrzf.jpg


----------



## kevinsbane

Good job. What made the difference?


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

UPD
not 120, only 110 is full stable. mb 115 but i am too lazy today
timings 1-2-2-5 make sence
and nothing else here
also i have to disable all bonuses in catalist such as overdrive, scaling and both DVI features - DISABLE them all
PS my overclock is in bios, not any program, it may make sence i dont know


----------



## Qbex

Hey Guys, just a quick question to any AMD Crossfire users : I'm planning jumping to the Red Team and get two r9 290 and sell my GTX Titan.
Main question - I'm on 100Hz Catleap, whats the situation look like with crossfire and refresh rates ? Any problems setting up, flickering, compatibility problems etc ?
Question two - is AMD fixed dreaded microstutter on crossfire? - you know the one that drove me to Nvidia in the first place like 3-4 generations ago (i had CF 4870 and then CF5870 that flipped me nuts with microstuttering) ? To be specific - is this resolved for all games Dx9 , Dx10, Dx11 etc ? or just a handful of late fixes for new games ?
Any input would be appreciated.
Cheers


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

refresh rate is up to 120hz in crossfire
but i have only 110hz stable at 7970 quad cross. and just one strange moment - if i run Dota2 i get flickering screen at 110hz. BUT. if first i run any other game just even main menu, exit it and then run dota - all is ok
dont know how to fix it to run dota2 without flickering

microstuttering is fixed for dx11 and (not shure!) dx10 games


----------



## Qbex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAN1MAT0R*
> 
> refresh rate is up to 120hz in crossfire
> but i have only 110hz stable at 7970 quad cross. and just one strange moment - if i run Dota2 i get flickering screen at 110hz. BUT. if first i run any other game just even main menu, exit it and then run dota - all is ok
> dont know how to fix it to run dota2 without flickering
> 
> microstuttering is fixed for dx11 and (not shure!) dx10 games


Ok, thanks for the input.
Btw nice cans in you rig, I've got the same sweet sound


----------



## m4drx

hi guys,

does anyone know of a fix for the "fade to black" issue?

I have three of them which are just over a year old and originally from greensum. I've had numerous problems with them over the course of the year and the nightmare "active displayport adaptors" i have to use in order to run them. One started to fade to black randomly and now refuses to stay on more than a few seconds if at all.

I've been waiting months for greensum to get a board for me to buy but they are saying they can't get them right now. Nobody seems to have spares and I can't find anyone to repair it.

I've tried switching power supplies, ports on the GPU, different DVI cables, different adaptors and i've taken it apart and reinstalled all connectors properly. Nothing has worked and I can't see any issue with the board itself.

Can anyone help?

I wish i'd never bought these things now and I really dont want to shell out another £300+ on another one.


----------



## -Jackson

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m4drx*
> 
> hi guys,
> 
> does anyone know of a fix for the "fade to black" issue?
> 
> I have three of them which are just over a year old and originally from greensum. I've had numerous problems with them over the course of the year and the nightmare "active displayport adaptors" i have to use in order to run them. One started to fade to black randomly and now refuses to stay on more than a few seconds if at all.
> 
> I've been waiting months for greensum to get a board for me to buy but they are saying they can't get them right now. Nobody seems to have spares and I can't find anyone to repair it.
> 
> I've tried switching power supplies, ports on the GPU, different DVI cables, different adaptors and i've taken it apart and reinstalled all connectors properly. Nothing has worked and I can't see any issue with the board itself.
> 
> Can anyone help?
> 
> I wish i'd never bought these things now and I really dont want to shell out another £300+ on another one.


Not sure if you're aware of these but here:
http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50


----------



## m4drx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *-Jackson*
> 
> Not sure if you're aware of these but here:
> http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50


I wasn't. Thank you for posting.

Would this be a complete swap for a stock PCB? it looks like a piggy back unit?


----------



## Xaero252

That's a complete swap kit - just did it with my White Q270... Apparently I had a 10-bit panel as well, cause now it's detecting the 10-bit color depth fine as well. It's like using a new monitor. Also, my panel hit 120hz first try, won't go 1hz faster than that, though. Totally worth the money.

This video guide shows you how to install it (it's for a crossover 27Q, but the instructions are almost identical to those for the Catleap):




When you do overclock it though, make sure to check for half-scan patterning and such with the lights off - it'll be hell on your eyes and give you headaches if you don't. If you find at 120hz you have those issues, back it off by 5hz or so and they should go away. You may also notice at 120hz you get cap whine that you don't normally - if you do, back it off a bit and you should be fine (or replace the caps on the PCB if you are comfortable doing that)


----------



## digitalforce

Sold my original 60hz Catleap a few months back. AMAZING blacks, colors, etc. I went with a Qnix 27 (DVI only) that is overclocking to 120hz no prob. I just don't think the blacks or colors pop as much on the Qnix though.

I just checked and there are a ton of Yamakasi choices now.. any insight on the best models? Also, I noticed there are the Sparta 300 and 301 as well.. ARGH!


----------



## TheNeck

just got this q270 se yesterday. http://www.ebay.com/itm/120911008070?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

it would seem to be defective, no matter what video cards i try and what input connections i try the screen is all scrambled.

could it be the power supply or it has to be the monitor itself?


----------



## Michaelo

First thing to do is try a different video cable...

The images look noisy, exactly what you would expect if your cable was not fully connected or possibly faulty... Of course that's not the only possible cause but always check the easy fix first...

What is the refresh rate set to?


----------



## TheNeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> First thing to do is try a different video cable...
> 
> The images look noisy, exactly what you would expect if your cable was not fully connected or possibly faulty... Of course that's not the only possible cause but always check the easy fix first...
> 
> What is the refresh rate set to?


thanks for the help. that is the 1st thing i tried, as well as a couple different video cards, but the problem still persisted. But after a lot of google searches, some people were thinking a cable came loose inside the monitor during shipping. So I opened her up, and disconnected and reconnected all cable connections, and now the monitor is working GREAT.


----------



## Michaelo

Well I was on the right track and opening it up is not the first choice...
Glad you solved it...


----------



## TheNeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> Well I was on the right track and opening it up is not the first choice


that's for sure.









also i noticed the pcb with the LG chip on it actually has a heatsink on it. i hope this helps in the long run. Because so far i love this monitor


----------



## Michaelo

Would have liked to see a picture of that... haven't seen one with a heat sink before... might be worth adding one


----------



## TheNeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> Would have liked to see a picture of that... haven't seen one with a heat sink before... might be worth adding one


here you go










i wish i still had some low profile chipset fans, i would install one on this heatsink to help it stay cool.


----------



## Juggalo23451

Got mine in yesterday, it came with a different monitor stand


----------



## Michaelo

@TheNeck
Being able to see the main board give you an idea of what to expect if you buy the same model...
In this case, it looks like your particular model (SE) supports multiple inputs... no wonder there's a heatsink...

Monitors that only support DVI don't need the heatsink as there's no big processor to worry about ...

Thanks for that... it adds to the knowledge base...

One other thing, as a matter of interest what refresh rate are you getting?
I ask because there are two cables to the TBoard suggesting it might support overclocking...
Mike


----------



## Juggalo23451

does any one if the pcb replacement will work with my monitor?posted my video of it above


----------



## TheNeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> @TheNeck
> Being able to see the main board give you an idea of what to expect if you buy the same model...
> In this case, it looks like your particular model (SE) supports multiple inputs... no wonder there's a heatsink...
> 
> Monitors that only support DVI don't need the heatsink as there's no big processor to worry about ...
> 
> Thanks for that... it adds to the knowledge base...
> 
> One other thing, as a matter of interest what refresh rate are you getting?
> I ask because there are two cables to the TBoard suggesting it might support overclocking...
> Mike


yeah i got the SE with vga/dvi/hdmi/dp, even has audio in and built-in speakers.

the refresh rate is only 60.


----------



## BlockABoots

Regarding the buzzing sound problem with these monitors. Is this when you can hear a high pitch buzzing sound when the monitor goes into sleep mode or when the monitor is turned off??. As i have noticed with my monitor that when it goes into sleep mode that i get a high pitch buzzing sound intermittently in time with the status light on the monitor flashing on and off and when i switch the monitor off the high pitch buzzing sound is constant...i though it might be a leaky capacitor?.

I however don't get this buzzing sound when the monitor is on and active, any ideas?


----------



## Michaelo

If we could get our hands on a schematic we could almost definitely identify and fix any instance of this but unfortunately that's not going to happen any time soon... So we have to guess as to the cause...

In theory any oscillating circuit can result in an audible output depending on the oscillating frequency (or any harmonic thereof), if one of the components can be made to vibrate.... Coils, transformers and ceramic caps are the most likely culprits but I have also come across a power transistor which came loose from its heatsink and vibrated against it... Anything is possible









There's only one way to find out and fix the problem... you have to take the cover off and using a long piece of non conductive material (I use a long slim screwdriver taking care not to short anything but a slim piece of dowelling is preferred) place one end each component in turn and the other end to your ear (kinda like a stethoscope) until you find the actual component making all the racket...

The fix depends on the offending component....

Buzzing might indicate a lower frequency perhaps mains so check electrolytic capacitors too... Power supplies vary greatly... has anyone ever scoped the output of the power brick?


----------



## Zamoldac

Is anyone here using a catleap 2703? If yes...is it possible to oc?

Can't seem to find accurate info on this model...some say it doesn't go above 67Hz, other say it's a 120Hz guarantee...


----------



## JayXMonsta

still going strong with the 2 monitors i got june 2012 and the 1 i got april 2013

having been meaning to find some time to sand and paint my desk and take photos

hopefully next weekend!!


----------



## Michaelo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Juggalo23451*
> 
> does any one if the pcb replacement will work with my monitor?posted my video of it above


Assume you meant "does anyone know"?
The monitor is pretty much the same as mine (slightly different model) but it should... The kit I mentioned is for all LG LM270WQ1 panels... There's only one input and that's DVI...


----------



## Juggalo23451

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> Assume you meant "does anyone know"?
> The monitor is pretty much the same as mine (slightly different model) but it should... The kit I mentioned is for all LG LM270WQ1 panels... There's only one input and that's DVI...


yes that is correct that is what I meant.


----------



## Adhunt

Hi everyone - does anyone have a view about what (other than a damp cloth) I should use to clean the monitor surface (I don't have a glass cover)?


----------



## Michaelo

There are lots of commercial wipes available costing form €5 to €20...

I tried various baby wipes as the chances of them damaging the display were slim...
Settled with use Huggies as they don't appear to leave any oily Residue like some of the others...

My display has no glass but always best to check on an old display first...
Mike


----------



## badassaf

Just got my Catleap Monitor and can't wait to set it up.


----------



## xabre1200

I got the 29" Yamakasi 290 IPS panorama monitor for my Macbook Pro. Here's a quick video.


----------



## xCaNNaX

Hi everyone,

is there a way to change the osd language at the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE Jupiter ?

greets


----------



## TheNeck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *xCaNNaX*
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> is there a way to change the osd language at the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE Jupiter ?
> 
> greets


yes under the OSD menu for the monitor, the 1st option is the language option.


----------



## maverhick

Hello folks, newbie here. first post

I ordered a Catleap Q270 and it reached me a couple of days ago. I had ordered the perfect pixel version.

However on starting up, I see a vertical green/yellowish one or two pixel line from the top to the bottom of the monitor. I've changed cables, DVI, HDMI, changed the gfx card - but it looks like its a monitor issue.

I live in Asia and can't really ship it back for an RMA because that would cost half the price of the monitor. Is there anyway this can be fixed? Not OCing the monitor.


----------



## Michaelo

There are a few youtube videos dealing with vertical line issues of this nature....
From memory I believe they were all more serious but viewing the videos might give you some insight...

The only real action is to ensure the internal cables are secure and not loose.... otherwise a return is probably your best bet even if it cost extra...
Mike


----------



## maverhick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> There are a few youtube videos dealing with vertical line issues of this nature....
> From memory I believe they were all more serious but viewing the videos might give you some insight...
> 
> The only real action is to ensure the internal cables are secure and not loose.... otherwise a return is probably your best bet even if it cost extra...
> Mike


Thanks Mike - the problem with returning is that I have to foot both the shipping cost and when they return the monitor we will have to foot the customs charges (20 - 25%) - so basically it would end up costing more than the monitor.

I saw some of the videos and you are right - they are far more serious than in my case.

As for ensuring the internal cables are secure - are there any posts that I could refer to?


----------



## fabfab

Hello,
I want to buy a Yamakasi Catleap Q270.
Do you recommend me (perfect pixel) Catleap Q270 SE or Q270 Jupiter or another version? What is the version without bleedings? I have a Nvidia GTX 560 TI with DVI-D dual output and I would like to use this monitor to make graphic advertising and gaming too...
Thanks in advance


----------



## BoredErica

I was trying to get color profiles from the first post to work but changing the defaults doesn't change the color scheme of the monitor. I remember when I used to double click on catleap native color profile file in C:/ or C:/Color Profiles/, the color would change immediately.


----------



## Michaelo

@maverhick
Nothing specific but any video that changes out a board will give you the basic idea... I'll look for one and post back...
The basic idea is to simply unplug each cable and plug in back in...

This video shows the input pcb (the bigger of the two) and the smaller timing board being replaced... just note the cables that connect them and ensure yours are secure....

Depending on the model there may be two cables from the input (DVI) board to the timing board as well as the back-light cable (the one that plugs into another able as seen in this video)...

On the little board (the timing board) you can see two ribbon type connectors... flip the long black piece as in the video and press them down again... Run your finger along to insure they are down properly...

That's part one.... the next step is a little more awkward so we will see how you get on....
Mike


----------



## Michaelo

@fabfab... Even perfect pixel are sometimes not perfect... from what I've read, paying the extra is part of the gamble... but might just work...
Mike


----------



## fabfab

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> @fabfab... Even perfect pixel are sometimes not perfect... from what I've read, paying the extra is part of the gamble... but might just work...
> Mike


So, Catleap Q270 SE or Q270 Jupiter? What is better?


----------



## maverhick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> This video shows the input pcb (the bigger of the two) and the smaller timing board being replaced... just note the cables that connect them and ensure yours are secure....
> 
> Mike


Mike, I guess the video wasn't linked in the post


----------



## skullmonkey42

My q270 se has 0 dead pixels, which is good. The downside is I can only get it to OC to 66Hz. I'm on a GTX680 and games look amazing standing still, but ****ty when moving. The screen tearing is awful. Is there anyone else having this issue?


----------



## BoredErica

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skullmonkey42*
> 
> My q270 se has 0 dead pixels, which is good. The downside is I can only get it to OC to 66Hz. I'm on a GTX680 and games look amazing standing still, but ****ty when moving. The screen tearing is awful. Is there anyone else having this issue?


What fps are you getting?


----------



## Michaelo

@ maverhick, I'll try find it again and post back...


----------



## technoir

Hi,

I have a Q270 SE that I was using with a desk mount. I now want to re-attached the stand but cant find the screws. I was wondering if anyone might know which type/size these are so I can buy some more?

Cheers


----------



## batphantom

I've been going nuts trying to get my Catleap Q271 working properly. I had it running fine until I did some hardware upgrades and then I couldn't get 2560x1440 up again. If I do a clean install of the latest AMD drivers, they run fine, but I don't get any display options over 1920x1080. After some tooling around with the latest instructions, I ran atikmdag-patcher-1.2.3 and then ran the latest version of CRU. I've got the res again, but videos seem to randomly not come up, despite forcing the HTML5 player on Youtube. Vimeo seems to be more affected, with almost nothing playing back, just audio. I've tried creating custom monitor drivers but they don't seem to help. First of all, are there any legit drivers for the Catleap monitors? Would they help if there was? Is the patcher breaking video playback? Or is it CRU?

Thanks for any help.


----------



## orangepita

I'm confused, aren't there more than 5 versions of the Catleap Q270?

Is there any more information on these ones:

*Yamakasi Q270 JUPITER* (has DISPLAYPORT and HDMI)

This one isn't a Catleap, it's a Jupiter, but it's still Q270 and it looks pretty much identical, is this basically a Catleap Q270 except that it has displayport and hdmi added?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Q270-JUPITER-LED-27-HDMI-2560X1440-DP-DVI-D-SUB-Computer-Monitor-/111287031343?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19e939562f

*Yamakasi Q270 CATLEAP SE* (but in the photos it seems this one has DISPLAYPORT and HDMI, unlike any of the 5 listed in the versions?)

Isn't this a Catleap Q270 SE, except it has displayport and hdmi too? Or is the photo wrong and it doesn't have DP / HDMI?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-SE-27-2560X1440-WQHD-DVI-D-Dual-Computer-Monitor-/120911008070?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1c26db9146

*Is there even any difference between these 2 monitors? (besides maybe the Jupiter has speakers and the SE doesn't)*

++++
I heard that the "MULTI" ones have input lag, what exactly causes this? Is it just that the MULTI model has input lag, or is it only when it's connected through HDMI 1.4 that there's input lag? Is there pretty much a rule that we shouldn't connect these 1440p monitors with hdmi 1.4?

Are the 2 monitors above considered "MULTI"? I know the regular "MULTI" ones have HDMI + Dual Link DVI, but these ones have DISPLAYPORT + HDMI + Dual LInk DVI. If I'm connecting through DISPLAYPORT, will I still have input lag? (I'm assuming that HDMI 1.4 is the source of lag)

Which one should I get? I need a monitor with displayport or hdmi 1.4 support because I have an Asus ROG laptop that only has displayport / thunderbolt (and I don't want to buy the DL DVI to displayport active adapter that costs $100)

Thanks guys!!


----------



## batphantom

An additional note to my issue, it seems to only affect videos in a web browser. If I download a video that won't play in the browser, it will play in Media Player Classic. Again, it plays fine in the browser before running the patcher.


----------



## AeternuS

Hello there,

I am reading this thread for a week, and i just received mine new Yamakasi Catleap Q270 2B Extreme OC.

I managed to go up to 110hz with some screen flashes every some random minutes, anyway, everything works cool at 100hz. I am ok with this.

The only problem i noticed so far is the youtube & vimeo videos. Even with 'allow hardware acceleration' to OFF, videos from youtube have crappy performance, like frames are missing or what. At vimeo, there is no playback at all.

Anyone had this issue too? Is there any way to fix that maybe?

Thanks for all information shared so far!


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Just out of curiosity, why are catleaps now $550+ on ebay? What happened? When I bought mine 2 years ago it was $330 shipped from korea!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Just out of curiosity, why are catleaps now $550+ on ebay? What happened? When I bought mine 2 years ago it was $330 shipped from korea!


It's all about the craze man. They used to be a lot cheaper when I got mine for around $150. Soon they got popular from threads like these and just jacked the prices up


----------



## ThaSpacePope

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> It's all about the craze man. They used to be a lot cheaper when I got mine for around $150. Soon they got popular from threads like these and just jacked the prices up


Makes no sense. The IPS displays at monoprice are $300, and the ones with display port are $350 on sale. Additionally, the PLS monitors are $250 regularly. What makes the catleaps so special? Am I missing something?


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> Makes no sense. The IPS displays at monoprice are $300, and the ones with display port are $350 on sale. Additionally, the PLS monitors are $250 regularly. What makes the catleaps so special? Am I missing something?


Nope, just hype at this point. Catleaps are the most popular one sold so they charge more for it. Eventually I'm sure the price will go back down when they realize people find other cheaper options. But most people will google this type of monitor and see Catleap higher up and buy those first.


----------



## p33k

I was told by my contact at computer market here in busan that the company had stopped producing monitors or these models. I was looking for 2 more. But it explain why even here in korea I can't find the black q270. I can find some white models but they are way more than other ips brands. Luckily I was able to snag 2 used ones for a hundred a piece.


----------



## AeternuS

The 500$ models on e-bay, are guaranteed overclocking panels, up to 120hz, plus perfect pixel. This is the difference.


----------



## kevinsbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AeternuS*
> 
> The 500$ models on e-bay, are guaranteed overclocking panels, up to 120hz, plus perfect pixel. This is the difference.


The guaranteed overclocking models are $650. No other Catleaps at the moment are overclockable to any meaningful refresh rate.


----------



## batphantom

So no one else has had the problem with videos not playing in a web browser after running the unlocker? Also, does anyone know where there are proper Win 8 drivers for these monitors?


----------



## y2kcamaross

I'm debating selling my 2B Catleap, anyone know what a decent used shipped price would be? Really thinking about getting a 4k monitor, I already have a Qnix that goes to 136hz, it doesn't look nearly as vibrant as my Catleap, but eh, no one will pay more than 300 for a glossy Qnix these days


----------



## AcidNfection

Can someone help me out with this mount. Will it fit my Catleap?

LCD LED MONITOR TV TILT SWIVEL WALL MOUNT 13~32" Vesa 75/100 FOR YAMAKASI TI BK

http://www.ebay.de/itm/LCD-LED-MONITOR-TV-TILT-SWIVEL-WALL-MOUNT-13-32-Vesa-75-100-FOR-YAMAKASI-TI-BK-/271056316867?pt=US_TV_Mounts_Brackets&hash=item3f1c3729c3. Thx for the help!


----------



## Demented

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Can someone help me out with this mount. Will it fit my Catleap?
> 
> LCD LED MONITOR TV TILT SWIVEL WALL MOUNT 13~32" Vesa 75/100 FOR YAMAKASI TI BK
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/LCD-LED-MONITOR-TV-TILT-SWIVEL-WALL-MOUNT-13-32-Vesa-75-100-FOR-YAMAKASI-TI-BK-/271056316867?pt=US_TV_Mounts_Brackets&hash=item3f1c3729c3. Thx for the help!


Seems it has the proper VESA mounts, and would surely hold the weight.


----------



## AcidNfection

Awesome! Thx man, I will order and give it a shot. Thx for the input! +1


----------



## JayXMonsta

hey one of my catleaps has always been buggy but now it has these weird thin lines that are transparent that move around on the screen

if i buy the overlord pcb should that fix the problem? i finally have some money and the extra hz would be nice since it's my center panel i game with anyways

plus those lines are really bugging me

you can only see them if your a foot and half or closer and i probably should sit father away anyways lol but i cant help myself


----------



## electro2u

Got a Yamakasi Catleap "2B OC Extreme "in yesterday from ol' Green-Sum.

They shipped it UPS and double-boxed the sucker. I paid for perfect pixel, but it does have 1 stuck white "hot" pixel that turns colors depending on what the rest of the screen is doing. GreenSum offered to pay for return shipping but I like my unit fine and the pixel is near enough the bezel I really don't notice it, so I took a partial refund instead. At least she didn't tell me to pound sand since it's not technically a dead pixel.

So the monitor itself is fantastic. It has one common flaw of S-IPS which is a horizontal strip of slightly darker shading near the bottom. It's not noticeable unless scrolling on a white background and it doesn't bother me.

The coating is excellent. Glossy yes, but not to the point of reflective madness. I have a matte Qnix here to compare and it's sad to say but true: the pixels on the Qnix look big because of the crystaline effect its AG film causes. I thought the semi-gloss on the Qnix was good enough for me but it isn't--this is way better. You can see the individual pixels, instead of their aura. I don't think you could possibly capture the difference in a photograph but in person the Catleap is eye-popping in a way the matte Qnix just isn't--at all. Also, both the matte Qnix I've tested could not go above 100Hz without distorting the color in exactly the same spot, upper right center. The Catleap is crystal clear at 120Hz.

I wouldn't go so far as to say that Overclocking was "easy" with the Catleap, but right out of the box, with the supplied cable it goes to 120Hz using auto Nvidia CP timings and acts pretty normal until I start doing some testing. In the end, in order to get the Overclock completely stable with zero scanlines while also allowing my GTX 780 to idle as normal, I had to do a really wacky set of timings:

These timings will NOT work on the Qnix, but they should on the Overlord. Totally stable. And I'm using a 6foot 28guage cable.

Things pretty badass and has me wondering if the Overlord can possibly match it.
The pixel response on these is faster than the Qnix already (enough so that you can tell by scrolling a webpage), add to that the OC difference and the 120Hz Catleap looks more like a 1440p FG2421 without Turbo240 on. Which is exactly what I wanted. Post calibration Contrast ratio was 850:1 and the colors out of the box were a bit off on red and blue. Green was close. Calibration results are better than the Qnix. Less banding and fewer gradients.

There's also a driver that allows the custom refresh rates to be used in fullscreen games with Vsync set so that fps = HZ. Pretty damn cool. See absolutely no need for native support at this time:


----------



## Wunderwaffle

Hey guys! Today is the day that my catleap died... for some months now, upon booting up the monitor, it would rarely(once a couple of weeks or so) show a rainbow signal of hundreds colorful vertical lines. This usually was simply solved by tuning the monitor off and on.. Today I was reading an article when suddenly the screen started fading into black, as if the ending scene of a movie. Now upon booting up, the only thing that works is the back light, the screen is black.

I've opened the monitor and checked all the board wirings and for visiual damage but everything looks good. Did my pcb die, or the panel itself gave up? And if so: where can I get a catleap pcb? ebay shows no results.


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wunderwaffle*
> 
> Hey guys! Today is the day that my catleap died... for some months now, upon booting up the monitor, it would rarely(once a couple of weeks or so) show a rainbow signal of hundreds colorful vertical lines. This usually was simply solved by tuning the monitor off and on.. Today I was reading an article when suddenly the screen started fading into black, as if the ending scene of a movie. Now upon booting up, the only thing that works is the back light, the screen is black.
> 
> I've opened the monitor and checked all the board wirings and for visiual damage but everything looks good. Did my pcb die, or the panel itself gave up? And if so: where can I get a catleap pcb? ebay shows no results.


Have you already tried a different DVI D cable? If so then you can usually buy a PCB from the person you bought it from if you just ask. That's how I got a replacement for a friend.


----------



## electro2u

This morning I finally learned how to use CRU, so I wanted to post these timings for 120hz on my Catleap. They should work exactly the same on the Tempest. We shall soon see. This is actually with the cable provided in the Yamakasi package with the monitor.










These timings not only work at full screen with vsync because CRU makes them appear native, but they also work with SLI enabled and allow the graphics cards to idle at low voltage properly, all of which have been significant hurdles the OC monitor crowd has had to overcome over the past several years. And yes, I've thoroughly tested for "scan-lines". There aren't any. It's not that I can't _make_ them appear, it's that these timings don't under any situation I have found so far. If I raise the pixel clock even a little I start to get scan lines on black or dark colors with windows open etc. These are golden. If I lower the pixel clock any farther my card won't idle at low voltage anymore and runs hot. The monitor is currently plugged into the DVI-D port on the bottom of the 2 cards, which naturally just runs hotter than the top card anyway, but overclocking the monitor has actually brought the bottom card about 3 degrees higher.


----------



## electro2u

I couldn't get my monitor to wake from sleep, had to press the monitors power button twice and then I got signal again.

Finally figured out what that was.

Nvidia Control Panel was set to Single Display Performance Mode instead of the default, which is Multiple Display Performance Mode...
Well I am only using one display








Anyway Multiple Display Performance Mode allows my Catleap to wake properly from sleep.


----------



## uzuzulla

Hi everyone,

i was a (proud) user of the Yamakasi 30" Sparta Monitor and it was pretty fine (almost no bleed and no dead pixel), except for high pitched noise, when the AC adapter was NOT under load, so i had to cut the power every time the monitor was going to sleep or turned off.

After about a year i started to notice, that sometimes the monitor goes to sleep without any reason, so i had to turn it off and on again. Since this happened about once in 8 hours, i didn't care much, but after about a month of such behaviour the problem became much more frequent.

As of now, when i turn the monitor, it works fine for about 5-10 minutes, then it starts going to sleep with smaller and smaller delays between the restarts till it finally never comes back to life.

I tried the following:
a) AC adapter, i've got one compatible (24V 7,5A)
It seems to help a bit, i.e. the delays between restarts seem to be longer, but otherwise it's the same
b) OS, drivers -> made a clean reinstall (i had a strange Win 2003 R2 as workstation combo with ATI drivers, which wasn't working out that well)

c) i've just ordered a new DVI-D cable

Any ideas? :-(


----------



## macschwag14

Hi, all.

I've had a Catleap Q270 for about 2 years. When it arrived one of the internal cables had gotten popped out during shipping, so the monitor wouldn't display a picture. I fixed this by opening it up. Everything has seemed to work fine since. Until yesterday.

After work I turned on my computer and monitor and noticed that nothing showed on the display,not even the backlight. The green LED would blink once over and over. I swapped DVI cables and have eliminated my graphics card since I can see my desktop when I plug my GPU into my TV.

A voltmeter shows the monitor's power brick is outputting at 24 volts and the brick's LED is a solid green. However, the power brick doesn't get hot like it normally does when my monitor is functioning correctly. Any ideas as to why I suddenly get no picture? I really don't want to open the casing again as it was a huge pain.

Thanks!


----------



## Michaelo

@uzuzulla...
Without a schematic it's almost impossible to determine the problem however allowing for common problems with pcb's from the region, after testing another DVI cable the next thing is to examine all electrolytic capacitors on the pcb where the DVI able is attached...

The top of the cap should be flat, if it appears to be domed to any great degree, it might indicate that it has failed... Additionally, poor quality caps loose their capacitance in a very short period often resulting in timing problems similar to yours..

Not much help I know but these are probably the only fixes that can be done without a proper schematic and poor quality electrolytic capacitors a very common these days...

@macschwag14...
I suspect the power board may have gone west but you also need to read the voltage from the power brick when it's connected to be absolutely sure it functioning... The off load voltage from a power supply can appear correct but under load it can disappear...

Take the back of the monitor, connect the power brick, find the connection on the pcb where the power is applied and measure the voltage... If it appears correct (24 Volts), then it's likely it's the power board (normally the board where the power and DVI cable are attached)... is faulty....

*Procedures for fault finding:*

Try another DVI cable...
Measure the voltage from the power brick (power supply)...
Take the back of the monitor, locate the positive and ground wires (following the power connector) and connect a multimeter... Connect the power supply (brick) and confirm the voltage is 24 volts...
Examine all electrolytic caps to see if the top of the cap is flat or domed... if domed it may need replacing...
Examine the PCB for blown components (look very carefully many components are very small)...
*Electrolytic Capacitors:*

...
Picture of the top of a faulty cap, the safety vent is apparent and open, although in most cases, it may not be so dramatic, barely noticeable... (googe for images)...


*Faulty Components:*

Example of a faulty/blown IC on power board...

Hope this helps...
Mike


----------



## macschwag14

Thanks, Mike! Appreciate you taking the time to answer. I'll test these out.


----------



## uzuzulla

Thanks, a lot Mike!
I'am not much of a hardware guy, but i will give it a try.
The fact, that the panel itself is perfectly fine is very motivating. 

Anyone else had experience with getting the whole replacement PCB? Is it possible at all?


----------



## NinjaSushi2

So I have a odd question. I am trying to connect my Catleap to my laptop or xbox 360 via an hdmi to dvi-d cable. When I connect it to either, my panel does not light up. The green LED begins to flash and nothing else comes of it. Does this cable not work or is my panel going to need a work over?

Thanks!


----------



## macschwag14

Hey, Mike et. al.

I've opened my monitor and don't see anything blown or burned out. Any other ideas? I contacted the seller I bought it from a few years ago to see if I can buy replacement boards.

Thanks for your time and help!


----------



## NinjaSushi2

I have a warranty on my catleap from squaretrade. I think I am just going to use that instead of opening my monitor up. JUST YET... lol


----------



## SilkyJohnson

Does anyone know a seller on ebay or anywhere that sells just the panels themselves? Im wanting to do a P-P-P setup and build my own bezels and use some generic controllers for them instead of buying two more fully assembled just to tear them apart. Love my catleap BTW, its been going strong for a year and a half now.


----------



## Bestio

My friend just purchased a Yamakasi QH2711, but it suffers from a severe glow/bleed on dark images.



http://imgur.com/FysZWhb



The importer refuses to replace it because it says it is a common feature, but is it really true?
How is it possible that users are able to withstand a defect like this?


----------



## vpex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bestio*
> 
> My friend just purchased a Yamakasi QH2711, but it suffers from a severe glow/bleed on dark images.
> The importer refuses to replace it because it says it is a common feature, but is it really true?
> How is it possible that users are able to withstand a defect like this?


Who was your seller?
It looks like the casing is too tight around the edges of the panel causing the backlight bleed. If they will not accept the return then you could loosen the casing around the panel and see if that improves the backlight bleed.


----------



## Bestio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vpex*
> 
> Who was your seller?
> It looks like the casing is too tight around the edges of the panel causing the backlight bleed. If they will not accept the return then you could loosen the casing around the panel and see if that improves the backlight bleed.


It is the ebay shop who imports Korean monitors in Italy.
We have already tried to lighten or tighten the screws on the rear panel, but without success.
We could try to act directly on the screws that holding the LCD panel to the chassis, but we are afraid to do further damage or void the warranty.


----------



## Bugses

Hi there.

I'm about to buy a Yamakasi Catleap 270, but a used model. I come from a old Samsung 2693HM monitor. Is the monitor still worth it, or are there better alternatives out there to a similar price? Its gonna cost me 170£/290$/214€.

I'm going to be using it for mostly gaming, such as Battlefield, Dota etc. And I got a GTX 670 2GB to run it.


----------



## vpex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bugses*
> 
> Hi there.
> 
> I'm about to buy a Yamakasi Catleap 270, but a used model. I come from a old Samsung 2693HM monitor. Is the monitor still worth it, or are there better alternatives out there to a similar price? Its gonna cost me 170£/290$/214€.
> 
> I'm going to be using it for mostly gaming, such as Battlefield, Dota etc. And I got a GTX 670 2GB to run it.


For £170 if you are in England buy the Qnix, its only £20 - £10 more.
A 670 is going to choke at 1440p; doesn't have the bus bandwidth for it. 1080p is best for a 670.


----------



## Bugses

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vpex*
> 
> For £170 if you are in England buy the Qnix, its only £20 - £10 more.
> A 670 is going to choke at 1440p; doesn't have the bus bandwidth for it. 1080p is best for a 670.


I'm in Denmark and its a used monitor the guy is selling. But if I'm gonna be choked by my GPU, then it dosent really matter altogether


----------



## asuperpower

Uhhh so my 1 or so year old Catleap just died by the looks of it,
I was using it during regular browsing and it just died!

I've tried it on two different (compatible) computers (and cables) it has a green flashing light for both of them and is not displaying the signal.

Anyone have any fixes? I might have to open her up...
















\_ asus_/


----------



## asuperpower

lol looks like this thread is dead (like my catleap







)

EDIT: :| okay so it looks like its broken... opened it up, no loose connections, tried it on two different computers with two different cables.

Anyone know where I can buy a PCB for it? (not the overlord $200 one, at that point I may as well buy a new monitor).


----------



## NITRO1250

Hey guys.

I ran the AMD overclock guide from HyperMatrix which worked great and I was able to obtain 82hz which isn't bad. However, what I didn't realize is that by doing the overclock, it breaks HDCP on my monitor which of course doesn't allow Bluray disc playback anymore from my machine when it worked just fine before.

I ran a monitor uninstall and re-detected it in Windows 7 x64 which reset it to a Generic PnP monitor, however this did not fix the problem and I'm not sure exactly what to do to fix it.

Any thoughts? Thanks in advance guys!


----------



## electro2u

If you want to use HDCP just rerun the pixel patcher and it will restore original settings.


----------



## NITRO1250

I used a different guide actually, so I'm not exactly sure how to rerun the pixel patcher.

This was the guide I used at the time: 




Thanks for the assistance btw


----------



## jaylumx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NITRO1250*
> 
> Hey guys.
> 
> I ran the AMD overclock guide from HyperMatrix which worked great and I was able to obtain 82hz which isn't bad. However, what I didn't realize is that by doing the overclock, it breaks HDCP on my monitor which of course doesn't allow Bluray disc playback anymore from my machine when it worked just fine before.
> 
> I ran a monitor uninstall and re-detected it in Windows 7 x64 which reset it to a Generic PnP monitor, however this did not fix the problem and I'm not sure exactly what to do to fix it.
> 
> Any thoughts? Thanks in advance guys!


If your monitor has a native resolution of 1440p or less by using CRU's reduced timings you should be able to obtain 84hz (81hz automatic or manual) without applying the patcher as long as the pixel clock is 330hz or less. That way you still keep HDCP and it does not break hardware acceleration


----------



## NITRO1250

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaylumx*
> 
> If your monitor has a native resolution of 1440p or less by using CRU's reduced timings you should be able to obtain 84hz (81hz automatic or manual) without applying the patcher as long as the pixel clock is 330hz or less. That way you still keep HDCP and it does not break hardware acceleration


Well.. I've already ran exactly what is in the guide. I just need to know how to reverse it. Are you able to assist?


----------



## jaylumx

Run the patcher again


----------



## Light Phaser

Hi, I received a brand new 2B Catleap from Green-Sum and I have a strange problem with it, a lot of lines appear on the screen, it's especially visible on black. Is this a known issue, or do i have just bad luck ?


----------



## electro2u

Not normal of course but I'm thinking bad cable or bad port. Try swapping to a different dvi port first if you can. Even if it's dvi-I or dvi-d doesn't matter as long as it's dual. On the common cards these says they have one of each.


----------



## Light Phaser

I try all those, swap DVI-DL cable, swap graphic card and the problem remain so it seem i'm out of luck... I am so frustrated because it worked flawlessly for few hours, the screen was almost perfect ! No dead pixels, minimal backlight bleed, and now this happen...


----------



## Light Phaser

Ok I don't know what is going on here, but the problem disappeared by itself after leaving the monitor turned on for a few hours.



I wish it could stay like this but i'd say it's unlikely, a problem like this should never happen in the first place.

Edit : And it already came back, at least I didn't had to hold my breath for too long


----------



## MDTeach

I'm looking to purchase a catleap but I'm wondering if the catleap has frame skipping when you are running multiple screens at a different refresh rate. I'm currently going crazy as my Qnix keeps skipping frames when I'm using my other monitors.


----------



## maxlingz

I am considering buying one of the overclockable monitors, and I am wondering whether the Qnix at $290 is better than the Catleap "2B Extreme OC" monitor at 310, both on ebay. When I searched for the catleap, it seems like it used to be super expensive or is this a worse model than the expensive one?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxlingz*
> 
> I am considering buying one of the overclockable monitors, and I am wondering whether the Qnix at $290 is better than the Catleap "2B Extreme OC" monitor at 310, both on ebay. When I searched for the catleap, it seems like it used to be super expensive or is this a worse model than the expensive one?


God Bless America that's cheap. The only difference between the prices on the Ebay auctions is where the items ship to. The cheapest Catleap offer excludes the following destinations:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Excludes: US Protectorates, APO/FPO, Africa, Central America and Caribbean, Europe, Middle East, South America, Afghanistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan Republic, Bhutan, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Korea, South, Kyrgyzstan, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, American Samoa, Cook Islands, Fiji, French Polynesia, Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Nauru, New Caledonia, Niue, Solomon Islands, Tonga, Tuvalu, Vanuatu, Wallis and Futuna, Western Samoa, Bermuda, Greenland, Saint Pierre and Miquelon


While the most expensive units will literally ship anywhere in the world (I want to see her get one to Antarctica in 2 days, that probably wouldn't fly)

I prefer the Yamakasi to the Qnix. The Catleap I have runs at 120Hz without any coil whine. The only major differences between them is that the Qnix panels tend to cap out around 110Hz while the Catleap seems to usually go to 120Hz+ I've only had 1 Catleap but my 2 Qnix both couldn't do 120Hz. The other thing I'd mention is that the IPS Catleaps have a slightly darker strip across the bottom (normal for AH-IPS and not very noticeable) while the Qnix should be purely uniform. YMMV!


----------



## maxlingz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> God Bless America that's cheap. The only difference between the prices on the Ebay auctions is where the items ship to. The cheapest Catleap offer excludes the following destinations:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Excludes: US Protectorates, APO/FPO, Africa, Central America and Caribbean, Europe, Middle East, South America, Afghanistan, Armenia, Azerbaijan Republic, Bhutan, Georgia, Kazakhstan, Korea, South, Kyrgyzstan, Maldives, Nepal, Pakistan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Uzbekistan, American Samoa, Cook Islands, Fiji, French Polynesia, Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Nauru, New Caledonia, Niue, Solomon Islands, Tonga, Tuvalu, Vanuatu, Wallis and Futuna, Western Samoa, Bermuda, Greenland, Saint Pierre and Miquelon
> 
> 
> While the most expensive units will literally ship anywhere in the world (I want to see her get one to Antarctica in 2 days, that probably wouldn't fly)
> 
> I prefer the Yamakasi to the Qnix. The Catleap I have runs at 120Hz without any coil whine. The only major differences between them is that the Qnix panels tend to cap out around 110Hz while the Catleap seems to usually go to 120Hz+ I've only had 1 Catleap but my 2 Qnix both couldn't do 120Hz. The other thing I'd mention is that the IPS Catleaps have a slightly darker strip across the bottom (normal for AH-IPS and not very noticeable) while the Qnix should be purely uniform. YMMV!


Interesting that does seem to be the case as I just checked and the different pricing does indeed seem to be related to the shipping location exclusions, how weird! Do you know why the Catleap used be super expensive then because at 310 compared to like the 600 + ive been seeing in post history, it seems like a no brainer, especially if it can overclock to 120 Hz more reliably than the Qnix. Does this version have any issues? Also, I am slightly confused about the fact that it says on page 1 of this thread that the new catleaps can't overclock.

This is the one I am looking at to purchase soon:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27aca

Would this be able to overclock reliably to atleast 96 Hz without any major issues or frame skipping compared to the Qnix?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maxlingz*
> 
> Interesting that does seem to be the case as I just checked and the different pricing does indeed seem to be related to the shipping location exclusions, how weird! Do you know why the Catleap used be super expensive then because at 310 compared to like the 600 + ive been seeing in post history, it seems like a no brainer, especially if it can overclock to 120 Hz more reliably than the Qnix. Does this version have any issues? Also, I am slightly confused about the fact that it says on page 1 of this thread that the new catleaps can't overclock.
> 
> This is the one I am looking at to purchase soon:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27aca
> 
> Would this be able to overclock reliably to atleast 96 Hz without any major issues or frame skipping compared to the Qnix?


I did ask green sum why the huge drop. I'd literally just bought one for 600 and she dropped them to 440$ Doh! But I don't really care too much.

I suspect GS kept the price too high too long and the inventory sat too long. Now she wants to get rid of them before all the 144hz 1440p panels start coming out. The price got lowered because of the Asus Swift mostly I think.

The 2B OC is pretty much guaranteed to hit 120hz. It's not a "new" Catleap. From user reviews all over its clear the pcb in the Catleaps are just more stable at higher clocks. The flip side of that coin is that the Qnix run at slightly lower pixel clocks for the same refresh rate and thus cause a little less heat on your gpu. That's right--over clocking causes more heat and a higher power draw.

As an example the 290x's I've tested usually idle around 38C at 60hz but 43C at 120hz over DVI. Nvidia same deal but they idle cooler.


----------



## maxlingz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I did ask green sum why the huge drop. I'd literally just bought one for 600 and she dropped them to 440$ Doh! But I don't really care too much.
> 
> I suspect GS kept the price too high too long and the inventory sat too long. Now she wants to get rid of them before all the 144hz 1440p panels start coming out. The price got lowered because of the Asus Swift mostly I think.
> 
> The 2B OC is pretty much guaranteed to hit 120hz. It's not a "new" Catleap. From user reviews all over its clear the pcb in the Catleaps are just more stable at higher clocks. The flip side of that coin is that the Qnix run at slightly lower pixel clocks for the same refresh rate and thus cause a little less heat on your gpu. That's right--over clocking causes more heat and a higher power draw.
> 
> As an example the 290x's I've tested usually idle around 38C at 60hz but 43C at 120hz over DVI. Nvidia same deal but they idle cooler.


Sick deal! Purchased for 314 shipped to US. I am hoping for a 120 Hz overclocker without issues. Does the catleap have backlight bleed issues?


----------



## n00k1e

Do we have anyone using YAMAKASI QH2711. I have found almost no reviews/comments on this screen online. I know that it is not being advertised as an overclockable monitor (and I'm fine with that to be honest) but it does look damn sexy (stand looks cheap but I want to use VESA mount so that doesn't bother me). Does anyone seen, used, has a friend with one of them? thanks


----------



## Wilda

Hi, stupid as I am as I was reconnecting my Catleap today I managed to plug in the power cable in opposite way and offcourse there was some smoke from my catleap and now it's not working...what are the chances to repair that??? :-(


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wilda*
> 
> Hi, stupid as I am as I was reconnecting my Catleap today I managed to plug in the power cable in opposite way and offcourse there was some smoke from my catleap and now it's not working...what are the chances to repair that??? :-(


My suspicion is that it is totally repairable. You've damaged the power system but not the monitor itself. Worst scenario and most likely thing is probably replacing the PCB. Now getting ahold of the PCB might be difficult... youd have to talk to GS about it but shes actually a good seller. She's ruthless when she wants to be but I've spoken to her on the phone and she's pretty professional. At the very least she will answer your questions within a day or two and tell you if she can get you a new board. I would take the unit to a TV repairman.


----------



## Wilda

thx for input, thats what I thought...  I wrote the seller if he has some replacement boards.


----------



## younghwan91

Hey guys, I have a question that I'd really appreciate if someone could help me out with.

I have a Crossover 27Q-Blade which has a cracked panel (long story short - threw a cellphone at it and it cracked) so it's not usable.
However I'd say the actual internal hardware is fine inside.

My friend has a Catleap Yamasaki (not sure which model) that has a working panel but the mainboard is faulty/fried.

I think I read somewhere these use the same panel, would I be able to use the Crossover mainboard and the Catleap panel together?
- If so, how?

Thank you.


----------



## mosinel

So, I just got the monitor today and I'm kind of panicking. Essentially, my PC is treating the monitor as 4 distinct displays and is therefore displaying 4 identical copies of my desktop onto my monitor. I tried opening up the Nvidia control panel to mess with the resolution, noise, etc. I also tried fiddling with the windows screen resolution, etc. I have no idea what to do from here. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


----------



## NITRO1250

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosinel*
> 
> So, I just got the monitor today and I'm kind of panicking. Essentially, my PC is treating the monitor as 4 distinct displays and is therefore displaying 4 identical copies of my desktop onto my monitor. I tried opening up the Nvidia control panel to mess with the resolution, noise, etc. I also tried fiddling with the windows screen resolution, etc. I have no idea what to do from here. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Your GPU can't handle the resolution of the display. That's what you will see if your card can't run it.

What is the GPU you are using?


----------



## Alias

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mosinel*
> 
> So, I just got the monitor today and I'm kind of panicking. Essentially, my PC is treating the monitor as 4 distinct displays and is therefore displaying 4 identical copies of my desktop onto my monitor. I tried opening up the Nvidia control panel to mess with the resolution, noise, etc. I also tried fiddling with the windows screen resolution, etc. I have no idea what to do from here. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


Which cable are you using for connecting the monitor? I had the same issue yesterday when I got my Catleap but it got fixed when i replaced the DVI cable with the one that came with the monitor.


----------



## mosinel

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alias*
> 
> Which cable are you using for connecting the monitor? I had the same issue yesterday when I got my Catleap but it got fixed when i replaced the DVI cable with the one that came with the monitor.


Yup, that fixed the issue. FIgured it out late last night. Went through 3 different DVI cables (all with the same results) before using the one provided with the monitor.


----------



## Topsu

I am thinking about buying 120hz pre-oc model from ebay, but I am wondering how is the input lag + response time compared to Benq xl2411z or Asus vg248qe?

I mostly play counter-strike and thinking about this monitor a bit because higher res and better colors but the input lag + response time concerns me.


----------



## shenmander

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topsu*
> 
> I am thinking about buying 120hz pre-oc model from ebay, but I am wondering how is the input lag + response time compared to Benq xl2411z or Asus vg248qe?
> 
> I mostly play counter-strike and thinking about this monitor a bit because higher res and better colors but the input lag + response time concerns me.


I just received my Yamakasi catleap q270 120hz monitor this week, I got the overclocked version from ebay. I have been using it for competitive CS:GO - the monitor is amazing. I have a BenQ 120hz xl2420 as my secondary monitor, my plan was to use the Yamakasi as a secondary monitor if it sucked for CS:GO. However, that was unnecessary since the Q270 can hold its own. I would highly recommend this monitor.

Just a heads up, for some reason I had problems getting 120hz to work for CS GO. Normally you would put "-freq 120" in the launch options to get the high refresh rate, but for some reason it didn't work. After a few hours of searching online I found that there was a CS:GO Video setting which negated the 120hz for CS GO. All you have to do is disable "Multisample something" in the CS GO video settings if you cannot get it to run at 120hz.

I turned on vertical sync for the purpose of testing to see if the monitor was running at 120hz. I turned it off after confirmation.

edit: In case you are worried about the credibility of my comments I would like to add that I've been playing CS for over 10 years. Even though MM rank might not be the most accurate indicator of skill i just want to let you know that I'm a Supreme Master First Class - lol i feel so goofy for saying this. So I'm not just some random scrub recommending this monitor XD


----------



## frescagod

i just got my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 SE from bigclothcraft on eBay, and it is almost flawless. yes, the stand is very, very cheaply made, and it does sit slightly to the right. however, i cannot find a dead or stuck pixel anywhere, and the backlight bleed is pretty much on par with my also mostly-flawless Dell u2312hm. it seems to handle things okay while gaming, and the increased real estate while doing work is phenomenal. this is one of the better $260 purchases that i've made in my life.

i'm already thinking about buying another one...


----------



## bcham

i received my YAMAKASI QH2711 Black Label yesterday multi input. no dead pixels minimal back light bleed very nice stylish monitor. played bf4 mp. and its just the same as my old monex single input version, all this talk about multi input as lag is nonccence,as i cant feel any.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Can someone who has some games installed tell me how this monitor will look with games such as Crysis 3 or BF4 etc set to 1920x1080 output? I am still using my overclocked 5870 and it still easily handles the newer games, but my current monitor is a Dell 2407WFP at 1920x1200. This is a 2006 monitor but still works great. I am just not sure how much of an improvement this IPS panel will give me and until I get a new video card I may have to use this 5870 for several more months or longer. I'm sure this 5870 will be OK at 2560x1440 on 2D, but seriously doubt it can do anything for 3D at that res.

EDIT: Also, does anyone know anything about the 120hz Overlord PCB for this thing?


----------



## magicsk0pes

Just wanted to add this here...

After a lot of messing around with CRU, powerstrip, amd drivers & the patch, i have my catleap 2b running @ 109hz with the HD6990. I didn't really know this was possible? Most hd6xxx cards I thought maxed out at 80hz or something, because of the pixel clock. Seems like I could go higher.

I used the timings from another site. Seems like it just won't take the timings on the first boot, it takes a few reboots, you get a messed up screen the first few boots and then it's fine every boot after that. I don't really understand why.

When I used powerstrip I got lines at about 80hz. It made me think that this setup, using CRU wasn't really 109 hz, but the ufo test says 109hz and when I move windows fast across the screen fraps says 109 fps.

Don't know how else to test it to see if it's actually 109hz. There's absolutely no lines or anything. I'm really confused









edit: I was misreading the pixel clock patch forum post. It was talking about crossfire issues, not that hd6xxx couldn't push high clock rates. HD6990 does have some problems, I guess. So I can hit about 110 hz max because the card is stuck in crossfire and can't push a high enough pixel clock. I never got to the point of a black screen so I'm guessing it's video card related. dual gpu cards aren't well documented so I was confused.

Not that I'm complaining though, 100 - 110 hz is pretty nice. It'll be a really long time until I upgrade this system, because pretty much everything has to be switched out to get anything substantially better, and I don't have the money







. Probably the 6990 is bottle necked in some games as it is with the 1055t.


----------



## TitanX

man this is a lot to read through. I saw this monitor on Ebay for $275. My current monitor is the Dell S270L IPS, which i absolutely love. I'm just a little scared that i may end up wasting my money on this and end up with a bad unit.

I have a Sapphire HD7970, will my GPU w/ this monitor be able to run most games on ultra? i'd hate to buy this monitor and have to decrease my visual details to play the game. Kinda beats the purpose of my upgrade.

Overall how is everyone liking the monitor? easy set up? anything i should know prior to purchasing? i'm thinking of buying the square trade 3 year plan with it just to cover myself a bit more.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitanX*
> 
> man this is a lot to read through. I saw this monitor on Ebay for $275. My current monitor is the Dell S270L IPS, which i absolutely love. I'm just a little scared that i may end up wasting my money on this and end up with a bad unit.
> 
> I have a Sapphire HD7970, will my GPU w/ this monitor be able to run most games on ultra? i'd hate to buy this monitor and have to decrease my visual details to play the game. Kinda beats the purpose of my upgrade.
> 
> Overall how is everyone liking the monitor? easy set up? anything i should know prior to purchasing? i'm thinking of buying the square trade 3 year plan with it just to cover myself a bit more.


Sorry mate, looks like the party is Over for the overclockable version








About a month ago the YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz went on sale for appx $320-$330, see my post *HERE* ... then about a week ago the price went to appx $380 ... and unfortunately today the price has more than doubled and is back @ it's ridiculous $780 price point *HERE*








So looks like the QNIX is back in business, unfortunately it's a Matte screen


----------



## TitanX

[/quote]quote name="TomcatV" url="/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/10310#post_22753947"]
Sorry mate, looks like the party is Over for the overclockable version








About a month ago the YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz went on sale for appx $320-$330, see my post *HERE* ... then about a week ago the price went to appx $380 ... and unfortunately today the price has more than doubled and is back @ it's ridiculous $780 price point *HERE*








So looks like the QNIX is back in business, unfortunately it's a Matte screen







[/quote]

oh ic, well the one i was looking at today was @ $275 (assuming non OC) . what's the big difference (picture quality wise) between the OC and non OC?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TitanX*
> 
> oh ic, well the one i was looking at today was @ $275 (assuming non OC) . what's the big difference (picture quality wise) between the OC and non OC?


Well I'm not sure which model your referring to, but if it's a Yamakazi IPS (LG?) model you won't see any picture quality difference







... BUT if you've ever experienced 120Hz refresh rates in gaming or even in Desktop apps, I don't know how anyone could go back to std 60Hz ...

*1440p is a huge improvement quality wise over any 1080p IMO*.

Your 7970 will do fine, depending? with newer titles you may have to turn down some settings to maintain 60+fps ...
But with higher DPI your not going to have to set your alising (AA) nearly as high or for some, at all?

Hope that helps your decision


----------



## TitanX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well I'm not sure which model your referring to, but if it's a Yamakazi IPS (LG?) model you won't see any picture quality difference
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... BUT if you've ever experienced 120Hz refresh rates in gaming or even in Desktop apps, I don't know how anyone could go back to std 60Hz ...
> 
> *1440p is a huge improvement quality wise over any 1080p IMO*.
> 
> Your 7970 will do fine, depending? with newer titles you may have to turn down some settings to maintain 60+fps ...
> But with higher DPI your not going to have to set your alising (AA) nearly as high or for some, at all?
> 
> Hope that helps your decision


yes Thank you it does.

This is the one i'm looking at

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-SE-2560x1440-S-IPS-LED-WQHD-DVI-D-Monitor-/151375622062?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item233eb0afae


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Here is one overclocked with a Overlord PCB, but its used. $325

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111435514895?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Considering this already has a overclockable $200 PCB, this is the one I am eyeing.


----------



## nategr8ns

Just picked one up myself on craigslist yesterday







. I love it. I was very surprised not to get an OSD, but I relaxed when I realized the two buttons next to power were for brightness control and not volume. Thank goodness.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> Just picked one up myself on craigslist yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I love it. I was very surprised not to get an OSD, but I relaxed when I realized the two buttons next to power were for brightness control and not volume. Thank goodness.


The osd just adds more money to the cost of the device. I think I used the osd on my UltraSharp maybe 5 or 6 times in the last 8 years lol. What condition was the monitor in? Since on Craigslist I assume it's a used monitor? Nice find and congratulations.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> The osd just adds more money to the cost of the device. I think I used the osd on my UltraSharp maybe 5 or 6 times in the last 8 years lol. What condition was the monitor in? Since on Craigslist I assume it's a used monitor? Nice find and congratulations.


It is used but it is pristine.
There are no dead/stuck/bright pixels. Heck, before I got my grimy mitts on it, there weren't even any fingerprints on the shiny bezel. The "features" sticker on the right side bezel is still on as well.

I don't miss the OSD, I was just nervous that I wouldn't be able to adjust the brightness, as I work in varying lighting conditions and have to lower screen brightness at times.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nategr8ns*
> 
> It is used but it is pristine.
> There are no dead/stuck/bright pixels. Heck, before I got my grimy mitts on it, there weren't even any fingerprints on the shiny bezel. The "features" sticker on the right side bezel is still on as well.
> 
> I don't miss the OSD, I was just nervous that I wouldn't be able to adjust the brightness, as I work in varying lighting conditions and have to lower screen brightness at times.


Yeah agreed, the OSD is nice when you need it but the times you really need it are so few and far between that the actual screen tech/quality trumps it. I am more worried about the wobbly stand because I have a very bad habbit of tapping my finger on the bottom of the keyboard while trying to think what to type next. Its a hard enough tap that I think it may wobble a lot. Thus I think I may need to get a unit that can accept a VESA mount. I know with a little work you can *add your own stand* to the Yamakasi Q270. The one from Monoprice has already been verified to work with the Yamakasi according to one reviewer at Youtube.

I love the price of the Qnix though and not concerned about over clocking it. I hate decisions this tough lol


----------



## samuelspark

Looking at the specs, this monitor seems most similar to $200 Topsync monitors on Ebay . How similar are they? Do you guys think this one will be overclockable to at least 96Hz? Should I get the Topsync or a standard 144Hz 1080p monitor?


----------



## Fields47

Who's the best/most reputable Yamakasi Catleap seller at the moment? Taking into account DOA's, dead pixels, returns etc....


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fields47*
> 
> Who's the best/most reputable Yamakasi Catleap seller at the moment?


Since one can buy a monitor with a 2560x1440 IPS panel from US vendors such as Newegg (currently from $434.29 and have included South Korean models from third parties) and Monprice's monitors start at $398.41 for the 27" IPS-ZERO-G, is there much value left in playing the eBay lottery?



You don't mention if you're in the U. S. of A., as buying options vary by location. Luckily for me I got my Catleap at just the right time, but if was shopping for a new IPS monitor then I'd not bother trying to import one.

Of course none of this answers your question. I doubt anyone here knows better than anyone else having read this thread.


----------



## johnsbrats

i got mine from bigclothcraft for $260 shipped about a month ago. it arrived in 3 business days, wrapped well, and with no pixel issues. the only thing i see is a slight navy blue sort of watermark/staining/blotch about 1/4 inch in diameter that only shows up on completely black backgrounds, and it's hard to see even then. but...$260 for this beast. i can't complain.

edit: so, yes, it can be worth it to buy korean via eBay if you find a good deal vs. $400+ from newegg or other more established vendors. it's a slight roll of the dice, but there are square trade warranties on eBay as well.


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *johnsbrats*
> 
> i got mine from bigclothcraft for $260 shipped about a month ago. ... so, yes, it can be worth it to buy korean via eBay if you find a good deal


That is way less that the going price of Catleaps on eBay the last time I looked, which was long ago. $260 is less than I paid for my Q270 SE and a great deal for this panel. I see quite a few offers around this price for the Q270 (SE) and 2703 on eBay now. My question is answered and for that price I would import again.


----------



## johnsbrats

here is the link for the Catleap sold by BCC on eBay (it's $285 as of right now). still a pretty good deal if you ask me.


----------



## Jakad

Sorry ahead of time for the lengthy issue but it seems you knowledgeable folks may know something I don't that could help me fix my issue. I've pretty much copied and pasted what I posted on the Nvidia forums so I'm sorry if some of this info is going to be redundant to you.

I'm having a strange issue that came out of nowhere. My catleap is no longer being detected at all in my device manager, and is not getting any signal while the display drivers are loaded. I have a GTX 780 and have been running dual monitors for a couple years now. A Yamakasi Catleap Q270 that connects with a dual link DVI cable and runs at 2560x1440 (the monitor currently having issues) and a ViewSonic VX2250 connected with single link DVI cable running at 1920x1080.

I noticed I was having some issues with shadowplay. I always have desktop recording enabled (a very necessary feature, thank you) as I play all my games in windowed/borderless mode. Shadow play show a little icon in the top left of both monitors and sometimes it will have the red line across it like it's not working. All I had to do what open Geforce Experience and my Yamakasi would loose signal for a moment, all my windows would move to my viewsonic monitor, the Yamakasi would regain signal, shadowplay is now functioning and I just have to rearrange my windows.

I did this 3 or so times over the past week until today. Today when I noticed the red line I started up geforce experience, my yamakasi lost signal as usual.. and never regained it. I have extensively troubleshot uninstalling GeForce Experience, doing clean installs of GeForce Drivers, installing old geforce drivers, updating chipset drivers, updating bios. Nothing has worked. I am able to restart into safemode on that monitor. I can see the bios and the windows startup screen, but as soon as it hits the windows login screen I lose signal, but this only happens to my Yamakasi monitor. I can plug in my ViewSonic and everything works just fine. Trying the windows detect in screen resolution settions and nvidia's display detection yeilds no result. The monitor does not show up in device manager despite what dvi port it's plugged into (my gpu has a dual link dvi-d and dual link dvi-i). I have not been able to find any monitor drivers, but know I have used the Generic PnP drivers for years now. I'm down to my last option being to reinstall windows which I just did at the beginning of this year and would love not to have to do it again.

Any other ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.

EDIT: Update to this. I re-installed windows only to have the same issue.

Is it possible that it is a hardware issue even when the monitor works in safemode?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

This is not an idea, just a random thought. Sounds like your Catleaps PCB may be on its way out. However sadly the only way to test that would be installing a new PCB, which is what I would do if out of warranty.

Has anyone heard of the Wasabi-Mango brand? I kept reading that they were nearly identical, and then while I was browsing ipsmonitors.com I noticed it says on the Yamakasi Catleap DS270SE page, and I quote *"This Model has been replaced by Wasabi Mango QHD277 (formerly Yamakasi)"* So, is Wasabi Mango the new Yamakasi? Or is that some sort of typo? Or the same company with two brand names under its belt?


----------



## Michaelo

*REPAIR INFO*

In a previous post I identified a supplier (_emaxeon_) who would supply a replacement Input (logic/power) and Timing Board to facilitate repair for $89...

*Known Issues: guidelines*

If you have an intermittent problem, it's almost always a connection or over heating issue...
Vertical lines point to problems in or around the main LCD module and are often difficult (but no impossible) to fix...
The flashing blue led indicates a problem with the input/control or timing board and can always be fixed by replacing the faulty PCB...
I've been an electronics engineer for over thirty years.... I tend to get things right most of the time...

Note: Input/Logic board that offer multiple connections (DVI/HDMI/VGA/etc.) are most often only available from the original manufacturer or through the original seller....

My personal experience (and experience gained from reading the post in this thread) would indicate that not all sellers are willing to supply replacement PCB's, so before purchasing, try get them to guarantee they will help in obtaining replacements should they be needed.... Keep al you Emails, you may need them later...

Mike


----------



## matisto27

hey i'm wondering i have a catleap Q270 B version few years old and only dvi-d
i have a converter dvi to hdmi to connect my ps4 to this screen but it doesn't work
can someone help me?


----------



## falcon2081

Been a long time lurking of this forum but never registered until now. I was a very early adopter for these Korean monitors. I got my Yamakasi Catleap 2 years ago. Yesterday the PCB board died on me. Getting the dreaded green flashing light with no display picture. I did all the troubleshooting that was mentioned in this thread. Its disappointing to know that these PCB boards aren't all that good. Finding a replacement has been ridiculous. I did order the emaxeon conversion kit just to get the new board. I'm just surprised none of the sellers on ebay sell replacement boards. I just don't want to order another monitor.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2081*
> 
> Been a long time lurking of this forum but never registered until now. I was a very early adopter for these Korean monitors. I got my Yamakasi Catleap 2 years ago. Yesterday the PCB board died on me. Getting the dreaded green flashing light with no display picture. I did all the troubleshooting that was mentioned in this thread. Its disappointing to know that these PCB boards aren't all that good. Finding a replacement has been ridiculous. I did order the emaxeon conversion kit just to get the new board. I'm just surprised none of the sellers on ebay sell replacement boards. I just don't want to order another monitor.


If you email the seller sometimes they will sell you a replacement board, if they have it. I read someone got one for $45 shipped to them. I assume the Overlord board is out of the question because of its price tag, right?

I myself am thinking of building my own monitor, instead of buying a complete unit, but not sure where to find all the electronics and cables in order to fire up a bare panel. I figure though, if I get one of the new HP Z1 Workstation panels (A+ LG panels) on ebay, then buy a kit like the emaxeon, maybe I will have everything I need to build it myself.


----------



## falcon2081

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> If you email the seller sometimes they will sell you a replacement board, if they have it. I read someone got one for $45 shipped to them. I assume the Overlord board is out of the question because of its price tag, right?
> 
> I myself am thinking of building my own monitor, instead of buying a complete unit, but not sure where to find all the electronics and cables in order to fire up a bare panel. I figure though, if I get one of the new HP Z1 Workstation panels (A+ LG panels) on ebay, then buy a kit like the emaxeon, maybe I will have everything I need to build it myself.


Yeah I've emailed the seller I got it from Accesorieswhole, even though he doesn't sell Yamakasi's anymore. He did reply to me and told they would try and contact Yamakasi to see if they can get me a replacement board but I have a feeling that's just going to be a fruitless endeavor. I also emailed Bigclothcraft as well. So we will see what happens on that front.

I have not seen the Overlord Board. But I did see the price was $200 which is just too much. Heck for another $80 you can just grab a Qnix. The emaxeon kit does bring everything you need to create your own panel. I just hope it doesn't take weeks to get here.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah I emailed them to and they said almost the exact same thing, that they need to contact the manufacturer to see if they can get me a replacement board. I'm interested in both the tcon and dvi boards though, plus the cables.

Yeah, the Overlord boards are premium, but I can't really afford it. I'd rather buy a brand new LG panel A+ stock ($120, intended for the $5000 HP Z1), and build my own bezel/mount. Thankfully I do have free access to all kinds of materials and every tool imaginable. I already came across a perfect method of securing the panel to my desk and now I think I have to build the motherboard tray from scratch, which should be easy. Kind of concerned about the power supply though as I was expecting it to be 12v (which I already have taken care of), but its 24v. So, $120 for A+ stock panel only, $89 for the TCON and DVI boards/cables, and whatever it costs for the 24v PSU. So I'm guessing about $230 total unless I can get one of the ebay Korean sellers to supply the parts for less.


----------



## falcon2081

If I was a electrical engineer or whatever I would definitely build some replacement pcb boards and sell them.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2081*
> 
> If I was a electrical engineer or whatever I would definitely build some replacement pcb boards and sell them.


Me too, in fact I would supply the entire kit, or just the pcb, or just the cables, etc etc and also have available new power supply adapters (they are stupid expensive on Amazon). Who wouldn't want a much closer local supplier supplying better boards, with better warranties? Or at least a local supplier capable of bulk ordering the parts and putting everything into kits for resale. Joshua Beattie (emaxeon) in Australia has done it, so I do not see why someone in the USA or Europe can't do it without trying to gouge customers.

Even IPSLEDMonitors in california have replacement boards for the Samsung PLS panels, but they want $120 for them which I think is too high still. For $120 it should be a complete kit, with all new cables.


----------



## nategr8ns

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *matisto27*
> 
> hey i'm wondering i have a catleap Q270 B version few years old and only dvi-d
> i have a converter dvi to hdmi to connect my ps4 to this screen but it doesn't work
> can someone help me?


The converter might not be dual-link.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2081*
> 
> If I was a electrical engineer or whatever I would definitely build some replacement pcb boards and sell them.


Hey bud, I just found out that the boards you're getting from LG are identical to the Overlord PCB kit, exact same hardware in every way. The ONLY difference is, one, Overlord tests the ones they ship out to make sure they hit 96hz, and two, Overlord charges $100 more for the kit. That is the difference, lol. Neither comes with a warranty or anything at all to help the consumer trust the purchase, which I find to be a shabby business practice no matter what the reason is...


----------



## moose517

I've had a trio of these for some time now. One of them the power supply failed entirely i believe, getting the blinking orange light after trying to turn it on. Another isn't receiving an input signal at this point it seems as my computer won't read it above 1600x1200 via plain DVI port or via active displayport adapter. and third has a like black bar down the middle where you can see like random noise showing as well. Very disappointing. Anybody have solutions on the cheap that i can try so that i can get them working again







WIth the working parts i've managed to cobble enough together to have one fully working display and one with the black bar down the middle, the third is just totally gone from the power brick to the PCB as well.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I've decided to build my own monitor using this LG panel. Has anyone else ever done a custom monitor build using a LG LM270WQ1 IPS panel before?


----------



## Michaelo

@matisto27 ...
The last time I searched, I didn't find anyone who claimed they had successfully converting Yamakasi's DVI to HDMI ... I didn't read all the post but surely there must be something out there that can do it... As nategr8ns said above, the converter kit should be for dual-link...

@falcon2081 ...
I believe some of the sellers did manage to get replacement boards but the two I contacted both said that their supplier had no boards available (currently)... They did say they would contact me when they became available... that was over a year ago... I haven't heard from them since...









@ }SkOrPn--'
There appear to be some alternatives for the Input and timing board (assuming LM270WQ1 is common to other models)...

I gather some of the monitors available offer HDMI & VGA & DVI and use the LM270WQ1...
There are two flavours of timing board I am aware of... one has a single input connector (50 - 75 Hz), and the other has two connectors(~140 Hz)...

If you manage to find a supplier... drop me a PM... I would like to get some spares as well as build another one








Even if I could get the monitor for the right price, I could always buy another set of board form emaxeon...


----------



## falcon2081

@Michaelo
How long did it take for you to get the emaxeon kit?


----------



## Michaelo

@falcon2081
I gather he normally organise shipping form Korea direct, that takes three to five days... He may also have some stock in Australia but takes a bit longer, about ten days...

Mine came Korea in about four days, if memory serves...


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> @falcon2081
> I gather he normally organise shipping form Korea direct, that takes three to five days... He may also have some stock in Australia but takes a bit longer, about ten days...
> 
> Mine came Korea in about four days, if memory serves...


If you look closely at the pics of emaxeons kit and the overlord kit it seems to be identical. This suggests to me anyway that the emaxeon kit is genuine LG parts.

I found a panel supplier for the replacement of HP Z1 screens which are A+ stock and according to them brand new. It has a bezel already attached to the front but thats it. TCON board is there but I'm sure it's useless for our 120hz uses. Other than that it appears to be a standard LG panel and better than what goes into the yamakasi I would have to assume. They want $120 per panel which I find to be outstanding for a new supposed A+ screen and somewhat unbelievable. But the seller has over 10k ratings and still maintaining 100 percent satisfaction rate which is good enough for me to take the risk. Not sure how many they have as it just says more than 10 available. I'm getting one the moment I have the money. Lol


----------



## Michaelo

@ }SkOrPn--'
At the time I purchased the emaxeons kit for about $80, the overlord kit was $199, so I guess they have come down to match emaxeons price?

Let me know what the panel is like, if I can get some cash together I will buy one... I'm not really push with refresh rates, something around 75/80 Hz would be fine provided the resolution was the same (2560x1440)...

If I can get parts at the right price, I'd ship them on to other at cost plus postage... I'm not interested in profit, I leave that to others


----------



## falcon2081

The Overlord kit is still $200 unfortunately.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> @ }SkOrPn--'
> At the time I purchased the emaxeons kit for about $80, the overlord kit was $199, so I guess they have come down to match emaxeons price?
> 
> Let me know what the panel is like, if I can get some cash together I will buy one... I'm not really push with refresh rates, something around 75/80 Hz would be fine provided the resolution was the same (2560x1440)...
> 
> If I can get parts at the right price, I'd ship them on to other at cost plus postage... I'm not interested in profit, I leave that to others


Yeah the Overlord is still nearly $200 as falcon said. They however test them to make sure that they run at 96hz which pretty much guarantees its a working board. The emaxeon kit is shipped directly from the supplier/source without any testing, or at least I can't imagine any pre-testing going on other than the original QA quality checks. If you get the emaxeon from Australia, then it may have been pre-tested by Joshua. Neither are guaranteed for any specific amount of time. However, considering both the panel and these boards are manufactured by LG I think its a safe bet that your risk is minimised. I'd rather go this route myself as its less money and IMO better parts.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Well it looks like I can get my hands on 55 brand new LM270WQ1's already debezzeled. All brand new, all A+ stock, all intended to go into HP Z1's which are very high dollar Workstations, and all of them very well packaged. I know nothing about the coatings, if they are glossy or matte, etc. They have a TCON board of unknown origin, probably built for HP. They have sold 98 to date, and they said not one has been returned or warranted for any reason. I tried to figure out their dead pixel back light bleed policy but it appears they do not have one, they just said and I quote "These screens come with 30 days warranty". So, not sure if that means I can return it if I have just one dead pixel or not, lol...

If I had the money I would buy them all up and paint the bezels and sell them as debezzeled kits with the necessary electronics included. lol


----------



## falcon2081

I'm about to break down and order a new monitor. I emailed [email protected]axeon to see what the status of my order is since we are almost approaching a week and I have not heard anything back. Either that or order the Overlord kit and sell the emaxeon kit whenever i get it to recoup my costs. I just hate waiting haha.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2081*
> 
> I'm about to break down and order a new monitor. I emailed [email protected] to see what the status of my order is since we are almost approaching a week and I have not heard anything back. Either that or order the Overlord kit and sell the emaxeon kit whenever i get it to recoup my costs. I just hate waiting haha.


I think the emaxeon kit from China is a three week process, no? I don't know if I read that or assumed that, lol.


----------



## falcon2081

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I think the emaxeon kit from China is a three week process, no? I don't know if I read that or assumed that, lol.


I hope not. Had I known that from the beginning I would just ordered a new monitor.


----------



## Michaelo

*emaxeon kit*
Just check and it was actually 8 working days but depends on which shipper you select, I used DHL in HongKong... you can pay more for faster delivery (3 days)...
And of course they come form China and not Korea...


----------



## falcon2081

@Michaelo

I actually paid for the fastest shipping they had which was 8 working days via UPS China. Everything else was 11-13 working days. Granted am not freaking out or anything...yet. But I at least would like to know the status and or have a tracking number.


----------



## Takn

Anyone know where I can just get the actual Panel Cable and nothing else? Otherwise I will just have to order another overclock kit.........

After having the monitor for 2 years the connector plugging into the panel has gone brittle and snapped off on the corners.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Takn*
> 
> Anyone know where I can just get the actual Panel Cable and nothing else? Otherwise I will just have to order another overclock kit.........
> 
> After having the monitor for 2 years the connector plugging into the panel has gone brittle and snapped off on the corners.


Count your pins, then look on ebay for LVDS cables. I am not sure if they are the same or not so use terms such as LG LCD IPS LVDS and the pin count. Being a cable it should definitely be on ebay, you just have to figure out how to find it.

EDIT: After a quick search I found this listing. Again not sure if its correct or not.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-25cm-FIX-30P-S8-30-Hole-Forward-LVDS-Cable-For-LCD-Controller-Panel-Display-/190722469638


----------



## Takn

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Count your pins, then look on ebay for LVDS cables. I am not sure if they are the same or not so use terms such as LG LCD IPS LVDS and the pin count. Being a cable it should definitely be on ebay, you just have to figure out how to find it.
> 
> EDIT: After a quick search I found this listing. Again not sure if its correct or not.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-25cm-FIX-30P-S8-30-Hole-Forward-LVDS-Cable-For-LCD-Controller-Panel-Display-/190722469638


Cheers, I have been scouring ebay for about 2 hours and can not find the right one as of yet.

Will give it a bit more but otherwise I might just order the upgrade kit......

oh, and that one you found is close, the flat pin end is correct but the 30 pin is a straight line rather than doubled.

uses 29 out of 30 pins too.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Takn*
> 
> Cheers, I have been scouring ebay for about 2 hours and can not find the right one as of yet.
> 
> Will give it a bit more but otherwise I might just order the upgrade kit......
> 
> oh, and that one you found is close, the flat pin end is correct but the 30 pin is a straight line rather than doubled.
> 
> uses 29 out of 30 pins too.


emaxeon sells the entire kit. This will give you backup parts just in case it ever dies on you. lol

I'm in talks with LG trying to secure a source for these myself but I have no word on availability as of yet.


----------



## Takn

So it turns out the one I am having troubles with, is the non-upgraded one. (I have 4 of these monitors). Anyone have a spare original post to AUS? lol

Stuff it, will just upgrade this one as well even though it is only used for spreadsheets.........


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Takn*
> 
> So it turns out the one I am having troubles with, is the non-upgraded one. (I have 4 of these monitors)
> 
> Stuff it, will just upgrade this one as well even though it is only used for spreadsheets.........


Check here as well.

http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=lvds+cable+30pin&catId=&initiative_id=AS_20140916190251

Yeah, that is a good idea, the community here should have plenty of them lying around after all the upgrades. lol


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Can the first person in this thread who manages to get their hands on the GeForce GTX 900 Series (970 or 980) please confirm that it fully works on these LG panels? lol, I am, to say the least, stunned that the GTX 980 runs on less power than my 5870. I MUST HAVE THIS CARD NOW!

Well I will wait until I know for sure that it works on these LG IPS panels first in DVI mode...


----------



## Takn

Yeah, I am waiting to see pricing info. My main gaming rig is a 60hz 4k monitor so the 900 series may be on the to do list.


----------



## Michaelo

@ }SkOrPn--'
A guy in another thread has all the boards but broke his monitor... Did you have any luck sourcing the replacement displays?

*Catleap Repairs Thread:*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1455274/yamakasi-catleap-repairs/20#post_22858274

If your source needs a minimum order, perhaps we can get a few guys to commit to ordering some...

PS, the cables in the second link look right to me








Link: http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=lvds+cable+30pin&catId=&initiative_id=AS_20140916190251


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I have 57 panels I can get right now for $120 each per panel with no minimum and free shipping, all grade A. However I think I can get the cost lower if I bulk purchase them. The seller wanted to know how many I could take before he calculated a lower price. And I'm not ready to go that far yet. I just want one for myself but was also interested in possibly purchasing them, prestesting and selling as pretested 96hz kits.

For now I'm just an individual who wants to replace my dell with one only. Lol


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I have 57 panels...


20480x10080 with a spare. That's high definition.


----------



## Michaelo

@}SkOrPn--'
Are the 2048x1080 or 2560x1440?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> @}SkOrPn--'
> Are the 2048x1080 or 2560x1440?


They are the same panels in the Yamakasi Catleap LM270WQ1, only Grade-A+ stock (not sure if Yamakasi got Grade-A+ stock though, I assume not). Why would I be posting in this thread if it wasn't the same panels? They are all SDDB from 2012 all intended as warranty replacement screens for the HP Z1 workstation. They even come with the Z1 front bezel, but are butt naked in the back. Well worth the asking price of $120 each imo. They have the HP Anti-Glare coating on them and that is the only thing I do not know about as I have no clue if its a heavy coating or a light coating. All I know is $120 is fantastic for screens that are in perfect shape.

This is a pic of the HP shipping box opened. The panel is sitting on its new bezel. I have more pics if interested.


----------



## Feyris

I get graphics glitches sometimes bios, changing windows, etc. This normal on SE?


----------



## Michaelo

I know they were 2560x1440 but when AJCxZ0 posted the strange resolution (too many 0's) I had to check... you know what things are like, always expect the unexpected









Wonder what the HP PCB costs, looks like it has more outputs... can you get a sharper picture of the board layout printed on the back?

@ Feyris ... be more specific...


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> I know they were 2560x1440 but when AJCxZ0 posted the strange resolution (too many 0's) I had to check... you know what things are like, always expect the unexpected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder what the HP PCB costs, looks like it has more outputs... can you get a sharper picture of the board layout printed on the back?
> 
> @ Feyris ... be more specific...


I tried. Uhm.... its like multi-color vertical glitches you see with failing gpus. Very fast, then dont happen again unless something is being switched


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> I know they were 2560x1440 but when AJCxZ0 posted the strange resolution (too many 0's)...


I was of course giving the resolution of a 8 × 7 array (giving close to a Univisium ratio display), with the vertical resolution coincidentally but suspiciously looking like 1080.


----------



## Michaelo

Quote:


> happen again unless something is being switched


... give some examples...

But first make sure your DVI cable is secure both ends and try another one if you have one to hand......

@AJCxZ0 ... I see, just didn't compute


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> I know they were 2560x1440 but when AJCxZ0 posted the strange resolution (too many 0's) I had to check... you know what things are like, always expect the unexpected
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Wonder what the HP PCB costs, looks like it has more outputs... can you get a sharper picture of the board layout printed on the back?


I wouldn't use the HP PCB's anyway (that would be 60hz I would think). I would just use the Overclocking board directly from LG, part# HY-2560M, and the LG TCON board part# LM270WQ1-SLA1, which are sold as a complete kit with all the cables and buttons.

I have all the rest of the materials and tools, so total cost would be about $240 for me to acquire a grade A 2560x1440 panel


----------



## Michaelo

Found a supplier in Japan on taobao.com (looks like a Japanese version of ebay)...

*New LM270WQ1-SLA1 logic board T-Con*
Supports: LM270WQ1-SDA1, SDDA, SDA2, SDC1, SDC2, SDB1, SDB3, SLB1, SDE3 LCD screens...
¥198.00 | €24.97 | $32.24

*LDK-LE256 driver board, LM270WQ1-SLA1, SLB1...*
¥320.00 | €40.36 | $52.11
Appears to include all cables and button PCB...

*Older T-Con PCB* (one LVD connector < 75 Hz): LM270WQ1-SDA1/SDA2/SLA1/SDC1 ...
€12.61 | $16.29

*LM270WQ1 display enclosure* (identical to Yamakasi catleap enclosure)...
€29.01 | $37.46

Add shipping but it's not too expensive... single PCB about $5...

Also found: _LM270WQ1-SDDB Apple Special screen new original package Grade A +_
¥ 1320.00 | €166.9 | $214.97... there are cheaper but I guess they are A and A -

Found other LM270WQ1 display for $140 ~ $180 but most are around $200...

Just thought I'd pass on the prices so you can compare, some might be cheaper... but the $120 price you found for the display is definitely the best... The display may already have the T-Con board... looks like some do...
Mike


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> Found a supplier in Japan on taobao.com (looks like a Japanese version of ebay)...
> 
> *New LM270WQ1-SLA1 logic board T-Con*
> Supports: LM270WQ1-SDA1, SDDA, SDA2, SDC1, SDC2, SDB1, SDB3, SLB1, SDE3 LCD screens...
> ¥198.00 | €24.97 | $32.24
> 
> *LDK-LE256 driver board, LM270WQ1-SLA1, SLB1...*
> ¥320.00 | €40.36 | $52.11
> Appears to include all cables and button PCB...
> 
> *Older T-Con PCB* (one LVD connector < 75 Hz): LM270WQ1-SDA1/SDA2/SLA1/SDC1 ...
> €12.61 | $16.29
> 
> *LM270WQ1 display enclosure* (identical to Yamakasi catleap enclosure)...
> €29.01 | $37.46
> 
> Add shipping but it's not too expensive... single PCB about $5...
> 
> Also found: _LM270WQ1-SDDB Apple Special screen new original package Grade A +_
> ¥ 1320.00 | €166.9 | $214.97... there are cheaper but I guess they are A and A -
> 
> Found other LM270WQ1 display for $140 ~ $180 but most are around $200...
> 
> Just thought I'd pass on the prices so you can compare, some might be cheaper... but the $120 price you found for the display is definitely the best... The display may already have the T-Con board... looks like some do...
> Mike


Wow, thats amazing considering I wasted several hours scouring taobao.com last weekend. You even found the enclosures? This must be where Overlord gets his supplies from then. Hmm, very very interesting find bud. Looks like I might be needing to write up a request letter here soon, lol... Thanks

Yeah, the panel I have access to already has the TCON board installed, but I have no clue what version of it. I assume it is NOT a overclockable TCON though. Until I order the panel, I won't know for sure.

I found this for $65 + shipping. Minus the TCON.
http://www.offerany.com/p-36166183920-.html

Wow, I just found the TCON board for $1.92 each ??? That can't be right, can it? lol

EDIT: OK, they must be advertising bulk sales amounts or something. Not sure how you figured out the prices, but when I use a Yen to Dollar converter it tells me $2.94 for the DVI board, buttons and cables, and $1.92 for the TCON board. Even the display enclosure is coming up a few bucks. What am I doing wrong? lol


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Well I can't seem to figure out how to navigate taoboa, or even try and contact someone there. I have business contacts in Japan, who speak fluent english from several years ago, so I may look for their contact info and see if he wouldn't be willing to do some translation for me, for a small fee.


----------



## Michaelo

Copy and paste *¥ 1320.00 = $* into a google search, changing the yen amount... When I tried the normal calculation method the values came out wrong









I used chrome browser as it asks if I want to translate the page... every little helps


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> Copy and paste *¥ 1320.00 = $* into a google search, changing the yen amount... When I tried the normal calculation method the values came out wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I used chrome browser as it asks if I want to translate the page... every little helps


AHH, OK that is the symbol for the chinese YUAN. I was using the Japanese YEN assuming the Japanese website would be in Japanese YEN. lol


----------



## Michaelo

I'm an idiot.... I was calling the Yuan a Yen in my text and was using the wrong calculation too...









Just a well google worked it out... so my prices are correct









To print a YUAN symbol... hold down the Alt Key and press 190 on the numeric keypad...


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> I'm an idiot.... I was calling the Yuan a Yen in my text and was using the wrong calculation too...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just a well google worked it out... so my prices are correct
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> To print a YUAN symbol... hold down the Alt Key and press 190 on the numeric keypad...


Yeah, I figured it out eventually. It is in Yuan, which makes the prices of the parts more in line with what I expected. However, I am now worried that the TCON boards he has are not compatible with the Panels I found. So, without knowing how to contact the China seller, I am still stuck. Hopefully Overlord will be willing to help me figure that out.

I might just have to buy the panel anyway, and test the parts and if it does not work, hope I can sell it all, or hold onto it until someone here really needs it.


----------



## adampadam123

I need some help ya'll

I just moved across the country, and along with shipping my desktop I purchased a new Catleap. All my stuff just arrived and I tried setting everything up, but can't seem to get anything to display on my monitor. I'm not sure if its a problem on my computer end or monitor end.

When you turn on the catleap, and don't have any input connected, can you still tell that the monitor is actually on? As in, is there a noticeable difference between the blank/black screen when the monitor is off and when the monitor is displaying a blank screen when its on? Should I be able to access some sort of on-screen display options (ie volume or brightness settings) even when they isn't anything connected to the monitor? I can't even notice some sort of backlight or whatever turning on, there is literally no difference between the monitor being off and when I turn it on. " Can you perhaps hear the monitor screen turning on? The LED light on the bottom bezel turns green, then flickers green and the light on the power brick is a solid green.

Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks guys

Specs:
i7 920
ATI 4890HD
New DVI-D cable off amazon
Haven't installed any drivers or anything but can't imagine this being the problem since I can't even show POST msg or anything.


----------



## Michaelo

First make sure your video card is seated correctly (it can become loose in transit)... then check your DVI cable...

Use another monitor (preferably with the DVI connector), does it work?


----------



## adampadam123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> First make sure your video card is seated correctly (it can become loose in transit)... then check your DVI cable...
> 
> Use another monitor (preferably with the DVI connector), does it work?


I've reseated most things on my computer, graphics card included, a few times now. I've also tried two DVI-D cables (the one it comes with and a new one off Amazon). Unfortunately, because I just moved I don't really have access to any spare or additional parts, like another monitor. I figure if when I press the power button on the monitor the backlight is supposed to come on and it should be obvious that the monitor is indeed on then I can conclude the problem is with the monitor.

I just tried opening up the back and think I might be onto something. The cable circled in green


http://imgur.com/UO5kSxp

 wasn't actually plugged in anywhere. The problem is I can't figure out where it's supposed to fit. Is it supposed to be like this or should it connect somewhere that I can't see?

Sorry for the rapid fire posts and thanks for the help!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adampadam123*
> 
> I've reseated most things on my computer, graphics card included, a few times now. I've also tried two DVI-D cables (the one it comes with and a new one off Amazon). Unfortunately, because I just moved I don't really have access to any spare or additional parts, like another monitor. I figure if when I press the power button on the monitor the backlight is supposed to come on and it should be obvious that the monitor is indeed on then I can conclude the problem is with the monitor.
> 
> I just tried opening up the back and think I might be onto something. The cable circled in green
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/UO5kSxp
> 
> wasn't actually plugged in anywhere. The problem is I can't figure out where it's supposed to fit. Is it supposed to be like this or should it connect somewhere that I can't see?
> 
> Sorry for the rapid fire posts and thanks for the help!


Not all the mainboards have a speaker connection, so it would just sit inside the monitor not connected to anything. Now that you opened it, its time to *CAREFULLY* re-seat each connector. Also look for any obvious signs of solder breakage, possibly from transit motion.

Not sure, but I think the TCON board under the metal piece has small screws you can unscrew to look at the TCON board, just in case the main ribbons came loose. That is what I would do...


----------



## Michaelo

To see cables you can us this page... it should contain everything you need...
http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=ac_cms/article&b_id=11


----------



## falcon2081

The emaxeon kit arrived today. Took 11 days from when I ordered it to today. Everything was simple to install. There was no need to use the button pcb board that it comes with as the Yamakasi one with the provided cable fits right on the board which was nice. Monitor is back up and running no issues. I patched the pixel clock and have it to a nice 93hz stable with automatic timings. So overall it was worth it. Getting tempted to make another order so I have can a spare just in case. This should hold me on until the 144hz ips panels start coming out next month


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *falcon2081*
> 
> The emaxeon kit arrived today. Took 11 days from when I ordered it to today. Everything was simple to install. There was no need to use the button pcb board that it comes with as the Yamakasi one with the provided cable fits right on the board which was nice. Monitor is back up and running no issues. I patched the pixel clock and have it to a nice 93hz stable with automatic timings. So overall it was worth it. Getting tempted to make another order so I have can a spare just in case. This should hold me on until the 144hz ips panels start coming out next month


The more I think about it then more I want to do the same thing, spare panels and spare boards, lol. Actually I am thinking of purchasing about 30 or 40 of these PCB kits...


----------



## apav

Hey guys,

I used to own a Catleap in 2012, however it was the non overclockable version, so I jumped to the QNIX QX2710 when it became available (as the 2B was out of my price range at the time). The QNIX I got has 1 stuck pixel, 1 pixel that alternates between dead and stuck, weird scan lines at 120hz (



) and frequent image retention. Although these aren't dealbreaking, they're noticeable and have annoyed me recently, so I have decided to splurge. I am going to put this monitor in the office and buy another one for my gaming rig, trying my luck again to see if I can get one with a better panel. I was going to buy another QNIX, but with the recent price slash of the Catleap 2B models on eBay, I'm wondering if I should look at getting one of those instead. I just have a few quick questions.

1. Why were the prices of the 2B cut in half? Did the Korean sellers catch on to the demand? Are those currently selling on eBay any different from the original 2B version?

2. Any reason I should consider another QNIX over the 2B? I know the main differences, and also that the QNIX is inferior in a few ways (not guaranteed to overlock past 100hz and noticeable screen darkening effect when you overclock, whereas with the Catleap 120hz is guaranteed I'm pretty sure and there is no screen darkening effect). I also heard that compared to the QNIX, the Catleap has a bit faster response times and less ghosting. Although I owned a Catleap, I couldn't overclock it so I cannot compare it to my QNIX, so I really don't know if this is true or not. Besides not having IPS glow on the QNIX, the Catleap always seemed better than the QNIX to me, except that it was more expensive. Now that it's only a little more expensive than the QNIX, is there anything I missed or has anything changed that should still make me consider getting a second QNIX? Because I am really leaning towards getting a 2B right now.

Thank you.


----------



## Michaelo

Now I'm not 100% positive, so feel free to correct me...

The monitors we have been discussing in this thread all have the same LM270WQ1 panels...

The two boards that matter are the T-Con and Driver boards...

Generally speaking, the Driver Board comes in two flavours...

DVI only...
DVI, VGA and HDMI...
The Driver Board comes with one or two LVD connectors as does the T-Con board...

*One LVD connection:*
This is intended for up to about ~75Hz (normally 60hz)...
*Two LVD connections:*
This type appears to work fine up to ~120Hz or more... (the higher end is also down to your graphics card)...

On tests with two boards capable of 140Hz and a slightly older nVidea card, I can only muster 70-80Hz or so... The same two boards with a MSI GTX 660 Ti PE, can do 140Hz without issues... Having said that, I never exceed 100Hz for long periods...

...

It would follow that the 2B version (assume it actually guarantees at least 100Hz) must contain boards with 2 LVD connectors... so you could say these are worth at least an extra $80... On the other hand, if the price for a monitor which only works at 60Hz is $100 lower, I would be tempted to buy it and pay the extra $80 for the upgrade boards as this would also give me spares albeit spares that only work at 60Hz...


----------



## Feyris

My SE just randomly had 1~sec of screen tearing with purple and different colored lines going down right side of screen. Im still within 30 day purchase period...but it really worries me if this is a sign of imminent failure it does this sometimes tabbing out too but like it just happened....


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone by chance have exact dimensions of the LM270WQ1 panel, out of its monitor bezel?


----------



## Nachmanowicz

PLZ HELP. Have Yamakasi a official website? My green light will keep on blinking, computer will "kinda" detect it but it won't show image.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nachmanowicz*
> 
> PLZ HELP. Have Yamakasi a official website? My green light will keep on blinking, computer will "kinda" detect it but it won't show image.


http://www.witechit.co.kr/main02.html

Sounds like the main board is bad maybe. Have you tested the power supply yet?


----------



## Nachmanowicz

Thanks. I'll try yet another cable first. Thanks


----------



## Nachmanowicz

Btw do I need some sort of specific DVI-D to run it? :x


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nachmanowicz*
> 
> Btw do I need some sort of specific DVI-D to run it? :x


Yeah it needs to specifically be Dual Link DVI-D.


----------



## Michaelo

If it worked with the original cable, it's more likely to be a faulty driver board (from my experience, the driver board is the monitors Achilles Heel)...

The driver board is very easy to replace, getting a replacement for the ebay seller have proved difficult with some but other options are available...

There a few post that show you how to identify the problem and what steps to take... basically 99% of problems can be fixed...

Make sure you have a good quality dual DVI cable...
Open back of monitor and reseat all cables...
Check power supply...
Obtain a replacement Driver Board...
Note some driver boards supporting HDMI/VGA/DVI also have a small backlight pcb board...

Don't believe we have a second source, so you would need to ask your ebay buyer for a replacement if you require one of these...
Mike


----------



## moose517

I've got one monitor that refuses to come on at this point entirely, i know the power brick for it is bad already had to resolder the transformer once. THink the driver board went as well, its got just a single DVI-D input and only one cable that goes up to the board at the top. Will these overclocking boards work in this application? HDMI input would be pretty damn nice as well. Another monitor has a bar down the middle where i think a ribbon cable is broken so i think i need a kit for it as well. Whats good source for them?


----------



## Michaelo

We don't currently have a source for the driver board that offers HDMI, VGA & DVI, we only have a source for the dual DVI version... No source for the power brick although I heard mention of being able to get on on ebay...

The driver board/upgrade kit supplied by emaxeon (and the other one which I forgot the name of atm) will fix the monitors with the dead driver board (no video), but the one with the "bar" might point to a problem with another section and not the driver board... Check youtube videos and you should find more information on this... I recall it being addressed at least once...


----------



## moose517

LOL hey if i can only get the driver board that has the dual DVI version tahts fine by me as well. as long as i can get back to business. I'll check out youtube see if i can find fix


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moose517*
> 
> LOL hey if i can only get the driver board that has the dual DVI version tahts fine by me as well. as long as i can get back to business. I'll check out youtube see if i can find fix


Use google and type in emaxeon and you will find the cheapest source, in English for the driver board kit. The only cheaper way would be contacting the Korean sellers or figuring out how to order from taobao (similar to ebay but in Chinese).


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Does anyone know where to get these main board covers PCB mounting with VESA mounting? I tried ebay but not sure what to call it, so I'm getting no hits. lol


----------



## caramur

Hey everyone. Just received the Catleap I ordered this past Sunday. Using CRU and the AMD driver patcher I was able to obtain 120hz with zero issue on a 7850.

Hopefully this thing doesn't die after two years of running at 120hz. One can only hope


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone know if this looks like the standard LED connector for these LG panels? Is this what you guys have on the single input DVI models?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone have a dead, dying or bad DVI driver board they are willing to ship to me? please

Or, even take the dead driver board and set it on paper, draw around it, and also drawing a circle inside the mounting holes. Then convert it to pdf or a text file or something that will not change the dimensions? Lol, that way I can start building my driver box using precise dimensions of it. I'm bored to death looking at all this material yet not having the one piece I need to start taking measurements and building this thing, lol...


----------



## finaltidus

Hi people.

This is my very first post in Overclock.net and I just like to say that I finally registered an account just to post here because of all the useful information here about this amazing monitor which got me in here.









And yes I got this amazing monitor just a month back from a 2nd hand seller. It is the 2B version which I successfully overclocked to 120hz after following closely to ToastyX manual settings on Nvidia Control Panel. Worked perfectly.

However I am also posting here because I have a few concerns which I hope you amazing bros here can help me clear my doubts.

1) When I overclocked my monitor to 120hz using the manual settings(Basically ONLY adjusting the vertical settings from 1481 to 1450. rest are at defaults), I realised my GTX 670 is not downclocking at all. However when I overclock to 110hz, it downclock automatically. Why is this so? Does that 10hz make a difference? I need the downclocking feature as now my idle temps are very high and power is constantly around 40% instead of 10% when downclocked.

2) When I play certain games like CS:GO and Crysis 3, I noticed that the games STILL max out at 60fps with vertical sync on. Which means its still at 60hz. How come? I tried everyhting in the game settings to adjust to 120hz but there are no settings to do that. However when I return to desktop it is at 120hz. This is very confusing. How do i resolve this?

3) When I overclock my monitor and switch off and on again, I notice that the monitor automatically darkens or dims a little for 1 second. Is this normal? However at 60hz, this does not happen. I am afraid that this could mean something is failing or not working properly when I overclock my monitor.

4) Does overclocking this monitor results in colour reproduction problems as opposed to not overclocking? I have not used the custom color profiles posted on the first page as I don't think I need it yet as I feel the colours are accurate enough for me at default. IPS is awesome! But will the color profiles improve the color reproduction after overclocking? Are they still needed when NOT overclocked? I am a total noob at this.

5) Will maintaining a 120hz overclock 24/7 results in the monitor dying faster in the long run? This is a big question for me as I really want this monitor to last as long as possible. I seriously don't mind running at 60hz just to prolong this monitor lifespan as even at 60hz this monitor is a beauty! And rare too!!

Anyone who can comment on my doubts will be greatly appreciated!! THANKS!!


----------



## Michaelo

@}SkOrPn--' If I can find my old board I will measure it up and create a template...

@ finaltidus, I'm not a gamer so I can't answer most of your questions but I'm sure others will. As to running the monitor at 120Hz continuously that's another question...

The original boards were designed to operate at 60 ~ 75Hz as can be seen by the single LVDS connector... The newer (and some older) boards have two LVDS connectors, doubling the bandwidth and were capable of about 120Hz or a little more...

Its entirely possible that some components subjected to additional heat (as a result of faster operation) may exhibit instability or indeed fail, however, I haven't read any posts suggesting failure due to higher speeds...

Higher speeds also mean higher currents and supply devices / regulators are notorious at breaking down when pushed to their limits... for this reason alone I clock at 75Hz for normal operation and occasionally switch to 120~140Hz for games...

I wonder if anyone reading this has had issues with running at 100Hz plus over prolonged periods?


----------



## iluvkfc

Just bought a Catleap 2B edition secondhand:



Amazing monitor, colors are better than my previous QNIX, no backlight bleed (QNIX had significant amounts of it), no dead or stuck pixels, overclocks to 110 Hz (is that still safe to do in the long term?) but cannot do 120 even with modified timings. One issue I noticed: when I look very closely some pixels are randomly "flashing" from black to the color they are supposed to be, it doesn't really matter and only seldom happens. Not sure what that means.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> @}SkOrPn--' If I can find my old board I will measure it up and create a template...


Wow, thanks Michael, I appreciate that VERY much. I just can't afford to buy the kit just yet, and I been trying my best to find a korean or Chinese supplier that would send me one for a reasonable cost that I can afford now, but no luck yet. Until then I have a beautiful brand new panel here and I only have 30 days to test it to make sure it works, which is looking more and more like I will miss the deadline.

In the meantime, if I can find a dead board, or the dimensions of one that I can trust I can at least finish building my debezzeled setup for now and simply wait until I can afford the PCB. Thanks Michael.


----------



## UNOE

I'm seeing some 2B on ebay again. Is this real ? for less than $350. How are these compared to QNIX ?


----------



## Michaelo

For }SkOrPn--'

Board mounting holes and connectors...

Included connectors and, power and audio locations in case you need to make some slots for cables


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> For }SkOrPn--'
> 
> Board mounting holes and connectors...
> 
> Included connectors and, power and audio locations in case you need to make some slots for cables


Woah dude, that is amazing. Excellent work and thank you very much... I guess I do not need the board after all in order to at least build my PCB box. Curious if the plastic is going to be rigid enough for the DVI connector, or if I should still dremel down a steel DVI wall plate as reinforcement and glue/bolt it to the plastic box.

I know that must have taken some time, and again I thank you for it.


----------



## Michaelo

The DVI connector is solidly connected to the PCB so you shouldn't need reinforcing... Just cut a rectangle slot say 10x40mm to let DVI protrude,,,


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> The DVI connector is solidly connected to the PCB so you shouldn't need reinforcing... Just cut a rectangle slot say 10x40mm to let DVI protrude,,,


Michael, sorry to bother you again on this, but could you please tell me what size the PCB is from edge to edge? I'm wondering if it will fit in between the end partitions on these ammo trays? If so that will make these trays just that much more sturdy if I do not have to remove all the partitions. Know what I mean?



Oh and thanks for saving me from wasting a perfectly good wall plate


----------



## Michaelo

.. I forgot the most important measurement ... 180mm x 107mm


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Michaelo*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .. I forgot the most important measurement ... 180mm x 107mm


That is Ok, you've been a big help to say the least. Thanks again for the information.


----------



## UNOE

Now that Catleap and QNIX are same price which one should I get ? Googling just shows people saying QNIX is better for the price because its $200 cheaper. But now on ebay the prices seem the same. I have a QNIX now and think its great.
I'm thinking about buying a Catleap for home and taking the QNIX to work. I wouldn't mind glossy at home and taking the matte screen to work. But just trying to get some more feedback on when is best.


----------



## blued

I also have a Qnix but may go for a catleap (2b) purely due to the glossy screen. No matter how good or well implemented a matte screen is (and Qnix is good in that regard), it still looks bland compared to glossy. Dont care about reflections, I can control them very easily.


----------



## Zahix

Hello guys, I hope you are all enjoying your Catleaps









I have done some research and I am all in for a Catleap 2B(extreme or overclock). I want to overclock it 24/7 if possible but the only thing keeping me from making the purchase is the scanlines effect. I have tried to simulate it via ToastyX's deliner program and it is kinda nasty to the eye on solid backgrounds.

I've read some posts in this thread where people were able to hide it by changing the timings on the OC?? to what extent is that doable?

Does all catleaps 2B show those lines when overclocked? If so, how bad is it?

I want to game and browse the internet mostly on the monitor.

Every feedback is highly appreciated.


----------



## electro2u

I've had bunch of Qnix units and then I got my Catleap this past May for like 600$







(paid way too much)

The good news is that it is much better than the Qnix's I had, 1) it does 120Hz with the cable that came with it and 2) I don't have scanlines at all 3) glossy!

Try my timings in CRU (have had good feedback about these)


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've had bunch of Qnix units and then I got my Catleap this past May for like 600$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (paid way too much)
> 
> The good news is that it is much better than the Qnix's I had, 1) it does 120Hz with the cable that came with it and 2) I don't have scanlines at all 3) glossy!
> 
> Try my timings in CRU (have had good feedback about these)


That's awesome.Thanks for the reply. +rep

It seems not all catleaps will suffer from the scanlines when oc'd. I need to research more into this matter.


----------



## caramur

What dictates the intensity of the scan lines? Anybody know?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've had bunch of Qnix units and then I got my Catleap this past May for like 600$
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (paid way too much)
> 
> The good news is that it is much better than the Qnix's I had, 1) it does 120Hz with the cable that came with it and 2) I don't have scanlines at all 3) glossy!
> 
> Try my timings in CRU (have had good feedback about these)


Thanks thats very helpful

I'm ordering one tomorrow. I noticed Green-sum says "2B OC Extreme" and many of the other salers say "2B OverClock" I assume this is the same monitor from all sellers that have 2B in the title. Anyone else know ? Has anyone ordered a "2B OverClock" ?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Thanks thats very helpful
> 
> I'm ordering one tomorrow. I noticed Green-sum says "2B OC Extreme" and many of the other salers say "2B OverClock" I assume this is the same monitor from all sellers that have 2B in the title. Anyone else know ? Has anyone ordered a "2B OverClock" ?


Personally I would trust GreenSum over the others, I think the naming difference is a little odd and for a long time GreenSum was the only seller that had these available. Those other sellers have been around just as long but I got mine from GS and I called them on the phone because they sent it DHL when I had requested UPS, and the lady on the phone said they had already closed up for the day (she actually sounded like she was eating dinner) but they fixed it and sent it through UPS for me. Was super super fast, too. There's some sort of wormhole between Alaska and South Korea.









Hope you guys like them, please update the thread on how it goes!


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Personally I would trust GreenSum over the others, I think the naming difference is a little odd and for a long time GreenSum was the only seller that had these available. Those other sellers have been around just as long but I got mine from GS and I called them on the phone because they sent it DHL when I had requested UPS, and the lady on the phone said they had already closed up for the day (she actually sounded like she was eating dinner) but they fixed it and sent it through UPS for me. Was super super fast, too. There's some sort of wormhole between Alaska and South Korea.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope you guys like them, please update the thread on how it goes!


Yeah I live in LA area. My QNIX was here in 2 days. I need a new monitor for work and the QNIX seems perfect for that since I'm there most the day. Then using a Catleap at night makes since because I'm usually home when its dark and I like how the glossy panels look.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *caramur*
> 
> What dictates the intensity of the scan lines? Anybody know?


The only time I ever catch sight of a scanline is when I'm watching videos on Youtube. I don't know exactly what causes it but it's some sort of physical issue with the digital to analog conversion. Simply adding a small amount of voltage to the GPU responsible for outputting signal to the DVI cable should completely address it. ToastyX made a descanline program for the desktop which people used to use, but I think it's become less necessary with the use of better DVI cables and newer GPUs.

It's clear that the scanlines only appear while under 2D clocks as it is not a problem for people while gaming. MSI afterburner is very helpful here because it allows you to adjust 2D profiles as distinct from 3D if necessary. In my experience, scanlines are almost not worth mentioning, and I forget that they can even happen. I just happened to notice one while watching a documentary in 480p on Youtube--apparently the low level of graphics activity involved with such a small resolution invites voltage droop. The line was very faint but it occasionally appeared in the same spot on the screen, I gave my main GPU +15mV in Afterburner and I have been watching for it for a while, and it is gone. So there you go.


----------



## caramur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> The only time I ever catch sight of a scanline is when I'm watching videos on Youtube. I don't know exactly what causes it but it's some sort of physical issue with the digital to analog conversion. Simply adding a small amount of voltage to the GPU responsible for outputting signal to the DVI cable should completely address it. ToastyX made a descanline program for the desktop which people used to use, but I think it's become less necessary with the use of better DVI cables and newer GPUs.
> 
> It's clear that the scanlines only appear while under 2D clocks as it is not a problem for people while gaming. MSI afterburner is very helpful here because it allows you to adjust 2D profiles as distinct from 3D if necessary. In my experience, scanlines are almost not worth mentioning, and I forget that they can even happen. I just happened to notice one while watching a documentary in 480p on Youtube--apparently the low level of graphics activity involved with such a small resolution invites voltage droop. The line was very faint but it occasionally appeared in the same spot on the screen, I gave my main GPU +15mV in Afterburner and I have been watching for it for a while, and it is gone. So there you go.


This makes sense. I'm using an HD 7850 and even on my VG248QE I would notice some artifacting at stock clocks which gives me reason to believe my GPU is faulty. It's also a couple years old so both of those things together would probably explain why I'm experiencing scan lines.

I'll be grabbing a GTX 970 soon so hopefully that rectifies them! Thanks for explanation ?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Can someone please tell me if this looks like the correct AC-DC Power connector Tip you guys are using. Please...

Thank you


----------



## lynxxyarly

Anyone able to help identify how to fix my minor annoying problem? Im trying to run the color profiles loader and it keeps going to my SECONDARY monitor instead of the catleap. I have no idea how to change it to force the loader to use my catleap instead of my secondary.

Surely someone else has dealt with this and can point me in the right direction.

Thanks all!


----------



## saruin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lynxxyarly*
> 
> Anyone able to help identify how to fix my minor annoying problem? Im trying to run the color profiles loader and it keeps going to my SECONDARY monitor instead of the catleap. I have no idea how to change it to force the loader to use my catleap instead of my secondary.
> 
> Surely someone else has dealt with this and can point me in the right direction.
> 
> Thanks all!


Can't you just unplug your secondary monitor temporarily while you're doing color profiles on the Catleap?


----------



## lynxxyarly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> Can't you just unplug your secondary monitor temporarily while you're doing color profiles on the Catleap?


Yes, and no. As far as I know, it has to load on start up every time you turn your computer on. So unless it defaults back to the primary for that program, I gotta figure something else out.


----------



## Cifali

Hello, this is my first post here but I've been reading as a guest for a while now. I think you guys can help me, well I live in Brazil and customs here are just hell... But I'm going to give it a try and purchase one of these beaultys anyways (still stuck in a 60hz 1080p). I was choosing between the X-Star, QNIX and this one, after all decided to go with the Catleap. My question is, does this one seem like a good buy to you guys?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-2560x1440-IPS-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/111051274052?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19db2bf744#shpCntId

I know the same seller has cheaper ones with same specs and name title, but this one is available shipping to Brazil.

Sorry for my grammar mistakes, been away from US since 2003 and don't feel like using a translator LOL


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> Hello, this is my first post here but I've been reading as a guest for a while now. I think you guys can help me, well I live in Brazil and customs here are just hell... But I'm going to give it a try and purchase one of these beaultys anyways (still stuck in a 60hz 1080p). I was choosing between the X-Star, QNIX and this one, after all decided to go with the Catleap. My question is, does this one seem like a good buy to you guys?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-2560x1440-IPS-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/111051274052?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19db2bf744#shpCntId
> 
> I know the same seller has cheaper ones with same specs and name title, but this one is available shipping to Brazil.
> 
> Sorry for my grammar mistakes, been away from US since 2003 and don't feel like using a translator LOL


Yes it is a good deal, lol considering it was like $700 or $800 just a few weeks ago. It is on sale now, in fact all the 2B's are on sale, so if you want a 2B Extreme OC at that price you better not hesitate or you may find it double the price tomorrow.


----------



## Zahix

Does anybody know if there is a difference between the Catleap "2B extreme" and the "2B overclock"?


----------



## Cifali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Does anybody know if there is a difference between the Catleap "2B extreme" and the "2B overclock"?


I'm asking myself the same question LOL, lets face it... it's kind of hard to decide which one is the overclockable from these ebay sellers, as they are all very similar. I'm down to these 3 options:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-Perfect-Pixel-Yamakasi-Q270-2B-OverClock-120HZ-2560x1440-S-IPS-Monitor-/131283163011?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e91161783

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-2B-OverClock-120HZ-2560x1440-S-IPS-Monitor-/151396264610?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item233febaaa2

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-2560x1440-IPS-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/111051274052?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19db2bf744

Also should I buy a gold plated DVI-D Cable?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> I'm asking myself the same question LOL, lets face it... it's kind of hard to decide which one is the overclockable from these ebay sellers, as they are all very similar. I'm down to these 3 options:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-Perfect-Pixel-Yamakasi-Q270-2B-OverClock-120HZ-2560x1440-S-IPS-Monitor-/131283163011?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e91161783
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-2B-OverClock-120HZ-2560x1440-S-IPS-Monitor-/151396264610?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item233febaaa2
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-2560x1440-IPS-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/111051274052?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19db2bf744
> 
> Also should I buy a gold plated DVI-D Cable?


As has been said a thousand times in this thread, no wait two thousand times, if it has only one input DVI-D, then it is the overclockable version, period. That isn't difficult in any way shape or form to understand. All three of those items clearly have only one DVI-D input, thus it is the model that has the overclockable by-pass board. Those ebay ads even give you all the information necessary to come to that conclusion within seconds.


----------



## Cifali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> As has been said a thousand times in this thread, no wait two thousand times, if it has only one input DVI-D, then it is the overclockable version, period. That isn't difficult in any way shape or form to understand. All three of those items clearly have only one DVI-D input, thus it is the model that has the overclockable by-pass board. Those ebay ads even give you all the information necessary to come to that conclusion within seconds.


I see, well I'm new to this as in Brazil 1080p is still the best you can get. I'm still reading in all of these pages and learning, I'm sorry if I'm still learning as you already know everything about it for years. But thanks for the answer, cleared my mind and helped me make the decision! Thanks man


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> I see, well I'm new to this as in Brazil 1080p is still the best you can get. I'm still reading in all of these pages and learning, I'm sorry if I'm still learning as you already know everything about it for years. But thanks for the answer, cleared my mind and helped me make the decision! Thanks man


Be very careful on your decision when choosing a seller for Brazil shipment. Do you know what you tax rate is for something like this? I would ask the sellers if they would gift it for as low value as possible, if Brazil taxes on its value.

All 2B's are guaranteed to overclock, but that does not mean they are guaranteed to 120hz unless they state that in the ad. I would ask the seller if he offers a Test before they ship service, or if he is willing to test it. Not all of them have the means to do this, in fact most probably do not, but some may be more equipped and more knowledgeable on the idea.

I have a good friend in Brazil who hates buying stuff from abroad, especially from Asian countries. So I understand your hesitation.

This is the one Tomcat recommended for me to get but I can not afford it. Contact them and ask if he ships to Brazil and if so would he be willing to test it before they ship one to you. But hurry they only have a small number of them left.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/151396264610?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Cifali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Be very careful on your decision when choosing a seller for Brazil shipment. Do you know what you tax rate is for something like this? I would ask the sellers if they would gift it for as low value as possible, if Brazil taxes on its value.
> 
> All 2B's are guaranteed to overclock, but that does not mean they are guaranteed to 120hz unless they state that in the ad. I would ask the seller if he offers a Test before they ship service, or if he is willing to test it. Not all of them have the means to do this, in fact most probably do not, but some may be more equipped and more knowledgeable on the idea.
> 
> I have a good friend in Brazil who hates buying stuff from abroad, especially from Asian countries. So I understand your hesitation.
> 
> This is the one Tomcat recommended for me to get but I can not afford it. Contact them and ask if he ships to Brazil and if so would he be willing to test it before they ship one to you. But hurry they only have a small number of them left.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/151396264610?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Yeah the one you linked is one of the three I was choosing from and the seller does ship it to Brazil. I already asked him to declare $150 max... that way I'll be taxed for around 60% which is around 90 dollars. He said he can do it just put a note when placing the order. I know I going to get taxed anyways... as I import nutrition supplements to sell in Brazil and when its over 50 dollars its mostly always taxed. Brazilian prices are stupid, just so you get an idea of what I mean:

*cheapest 2560x1440 monitor 60hz not overclockable, low quality, **** brands R$3000+, thats about 1500 dollars

another example, the supplement i sell the most:

*Optimum Gold Standard Whey $25 for 2LB, I sell for around $100 each...

another example shirts:

*Hollister and Aeropostale I buy them for 5~12 dollars and sell each one for around 40~50 dollars here.

*A Ford Fusion here costs 50,000 dollars

I quit my job to live out of this...


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> I quit my job to live out of this...


Haha, good point. Must be a bunch of self employed Brazilians living in Brazil. Good luck with your monitor purchase. Hey maybe you should buy a dozen of them, test them to 120hz and sell them for $700 or so when the price goes back up on the 2B's?


----------



## saruin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Haha, good point. Must be a bunch of self employed Brazilians living in Brazil. Good luck with your monitor purchase. Hey maybe you should buy a dozen of them, test them to 120hz and sell them for $700 or so when the price goes back up on the 2B's?


Will these go back up in price very soon you think? I've read a few recent posts and understand that this monitor has been over $700 for quite awhile until recently.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> Will these go back up in price very soon you think? I've read a few recent posts and understand that this monitor has been over $700 for quite awhile until recently.


I do not know, I was just commenting that maybe they will. But others have said they will not. Its anyones guess really.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> Will these go back up in price very soon you think? I've read a few recent posts and understand that this monitor has been over $700 for quite awhile until recently.


It looks like they came down in price about 6 weeks ago then shot back up again. I bought on one Wednesday. I'm amazed the tracking number hasn't posted and its being shipped with DHL. My QNIX arrived in about 36 hours. Its already been 56 hours and monitor doesn't look like it been scanned yet.
But anyways I'm very excited to see how this compares to QNIX.


----------



## electro2u

GreenSum started reducing prices in late May actually. I know because she literally did it immediately after I bought mine for 600$. She jacked the price up briefly but for the most part theyve been 300-400 for months.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> Will these go back up in price very soon you think? I've read a few recent posts and understand that this monitor has been over $700 for quite awhile until recently.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I do not know, I was just commenting that maybe they will. But others have said they will not. Its anyones guess really.
Click to expand...

No one knows for sure but I don't think they will. At least not back up to $700-$799 like they were a few weeks ago after the last price drop for a short time in the later part of July 2014 ... There has been a shakeup with GreenSum's semi-exclusive contract and Qnix is rumored to be coming out with a special order of "A" panels (not A-) in a true glossy that overclocks without frame dropping ... I always thought that was the Cat2B's big advantage over QNIX was offering a real glossy OC panel, not the tempered glass over matte crap? like QNIX tried to pull on us, and still does w/some suppliers








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> It looks like they came down in price about 6 weeks ago then shot back up again. I bought on one Wednesday. I'm amazed the tracking number hasn't posted and its being shipped with DHL. My QNIX arrived in about 36 hours. Its already been 56 hours and monitor doesn't look like it been scanned yet.
> But anyways I'm very excited to see how this compares to QNIX.


This ^^^^ is correct ...









Edit: Looking forward to your opinions, also If you have a matte QNIX it would be interesting to see some side by side pics including one with both monitors powered down









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> GreenSum started reducing prices in late May actually. I know because she literally did it immediately after I bought mine for 600$. She jacked the price up briefly but for the most part *they've been 300-400 for months*.


This ^^^^ (bold) not quite correct


----------



## Anonymous1337

Where can I find the OC driver for the Catleap OC ?

*Edit*

Found it at the end of this review :

http://www.oc-gaming.eu/yamakasi-catleap-2b-extreme-oc-review/

catleap.zip is that the right driver ?


----------



## saruin

There's multiple listings for the same monitor on green-sums store. I went with the most inexpensive one listed. This will be my first IPS and 1440p monitor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Official-Dealer-YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312

Seriously hoping mine doesn't come with any problems or dead pixels.


----------



## Zahix

Let us know how it goes when you receive it









I'm planning to purchase one very soon.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> There's multiple listings for the same monitor on green-sums store. I went with the most inexpensive one listed. This will be my first IPS and 1440p monitor.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Official-Dealer-YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312
> 
> Seriously hoping mine doesn't come with any problems or dead pixels.


----------



## Anonymous1337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anonymous1337*
> 
> Where can I find the OC driver for the Catleap OC ?
> 
> *Edit*
> 
> Found it at the end of this review :
> 
> http://www.oc-gaming.eu/yamakasi-catleap-2b-extreme-oc-review/
> 
> catleap.zip is that the right driver ?


Ok it works


----------



## aomas

Hello guys,

I ordered a monitor from bigclothcraft and it was sold as a 2B overclockable version, i've not been able to overclock it to anything except 60hz (only black screen after that). I'm a bit scared that i got screwed badly by the bigclothcraft, the model number says this is Q270LED SE but in the front page there is a image of the packet which has the same "model number". so is there anyway to check if this is truly a 2B version or instead a SE version? (without opening the monitor).

(there is a slight chance that i've just not smart enough to do the overclocking, ill continue testing but just incase did contact the bigclothcraft, just to make things go forward as the ebay/paypal protection has its timelimit)

i have R9 290, windows 8.1, in testmode, catleap.inf installed, cru and pixelclock runned, i've tried even 65hz which failed too.


----------



## Tallyho

I bought a yamakasi catleap on ebay from the seller bigclothcraft last month and for the last month I've had horrific horizontal lines running half way on my monitor for the last month while running at it's normal 60 hz. The lines tend to be very thick at the start then get finer but never actually gone and never to a point where it is not noticeable or hard to notice. They are just kinda always there. Actually I've had nothing but issues with this monitor, even the first PSU died within 24 hours and the seller was kind enough to replace that. After getting the PSU and having more time with the screen I couldnt help but notice the linees. At first I thought the provided DVI-D cable. There was a tear through the rubber of it anyways and I've hear other people having problems with that cable. So I went out and bought a 6 foot $10 DVI-D cable which turned out not to be the problem. When I told him about my issue with the actual screen, he first went and contacted the manufacture to troubleshoot it, which seems like good sense. After a week of hearing nothing from him I contacted him once more for an update, he said he would pay for a return shipping, then test it himself. If the issue was present then he would then replace the monitor or refund it. If he couldn't see the issue then shipping on both ways would be on me to return it, or he could deduct the shipment costs from my refund. Knowing the issues I saw with this monitor I was more then ok with this. I messaged him that that this was ok with me and that I wanted a replacement. He then said to check it one more time before he shipped me a label . I did and have not heard from him since and I have asked to verification on this label he sent. This was on the 30th of September and now it is the 14th of October and I have yet to receive a shipping label to return this and at this point in time I have to assume he has no intentions of sending me one. If he does, I will update this. Below I will show some pictures of what the monitor I got looks like.



This is what the monitor looks like shortly after turning it on for the day. You can see the lines are extremely thick, but what you cant see is a motion where it looks like they are going up.



After being on for a few hours. You can truly see the color shift as well as 3 darker pillars on this picture. This is what I have to deal with every day when I want to work or play games and you can't just not notice them. By this time the upward motion is only visiable if I look very close at the monitor, but there are large horizontal lines that just sit there on that side of the screen and fade the closer you get to the other side of the screen.



This is what it looks like after being left on for over 24+ hours. At this point the screen quality does not improve and the lines are still visible and to be honest with overclock's background the darkness of these lines shift around constantly. It's kinda like lines don't know what darkness level they should be at.

I am posting this as caution to people who are looking into buying a catleap.I am not here to say you shouldn't but moreso as a warning to be cautious about who you buy them from. Only try to get them from official dealers.

I've talked to overlord computer and they said it was likely a PCB issue but they couldn't be certain without testing it themselves. If anyone has an extra functioning PCB without issues they are willing to sell, or a possible fix for this then please contact me via PM, I currently do not have a great deal of money that I can spend this month and I don't know if this will actually fix my problem so please keep the price reasonable. I just want my monitor to function without having a need to rip out my hair. everytime I have to look at the bad side of the screen.


----------



## aomas

Im sorry for you Tallyho have you contacted ebay and paypal already? if not you should.

So it really does seem my monitor is only able to "overclock 4hz" which is not really an overclock and im not believing the bull**** that this has 2B board, so what im gonna do next is wait for the response of bigclothcrafting and propably ask full refund or that he sends me an 2B board, those clockable boards seem to cost 80$.

Im so disappointed for this, really hoped to join the club


----------



## electro2u

Yeah that was my concern. The PCB. I wouldn't buy a Catleap from anyone other than green sum.

Very sorry


----------



## saruin

So If you end up going with a dispute through Ebay or PayPal are you required to return the legitimately defective item, even if the return shipping is obscenely expensive?


----------



## Tallyho

I've tried looking into it but I don't think there is anything that can be done as the seller is from korea and I have to hope the seller is in good faith, except at the moment he doesn't which means I get stuck with a bad monitor. Unless I am doing something wrong that is then please do inform me, at this point I am all ears since I got this monitor in early September.

Edit: I'm contacting ebay directly but I think it goes back to the seller and not directly to ebay, Even if I need to pay for shipping to send this item back and get my money back then that is something I will do. I personally don't care if it is only 60hz but the lines are too much for me.


----------



## electro2u

It's a risky transaction if the shipping distance is far... It is my understanding you need to return the item for refund. Both of these should be disputed through PayPal. Luckily PayPal has extended the amount of time one can file. IMO bigclothcraft and any seller posting catleaps with funny alternate "OverClock" listings should be avoided. GreenSum was always the only seller offering the proper 2B OC


----------



## aomas

Tallyho this is for you to read. http://pages.ebay.com/fi/en-us/help/policies/money-back-guarantee.html

electro2u u have any idea how i could get info about the board inside this monitor, it would really help if there is a program to check for correct model or what pcb is inside as i might need it when showing evidence for ebay and/or paypal?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aomas*
> 
> Tallyho this is for you to read. http://pages.ebay.com/fi/en-us/help/policies/money-back-guarantee.html
> 
> electro2u u have any idea how i could get info about the board inside this monitor, it would really help if there is a program to check for correct model or what pcb is inside as i might need it when showing evidence for ebay and/or paypal?


The board inside depends on what model you got, and if its a single input monitor. The model numbers are stamped on the PCB itself.

If its the overclockable model, single DVI-D input, then its more than likely the LM270WQ1-SLA1 LG TCON board, and the DVI board is probably the HY-2560M_DA_Q1


----------



## aomas

skorpn-- i was bit afraid of that, but from the first page checking the serial numbers listed, it seems that if the serial is something else than q270se2b its not the overclockable version, mine is q270SE4F (and it continues 3LP0113K). Dammit it felt too good to be true that i would get nice monitor, thank god i didn't order two and i was gonna order second.

Anyway shipping and customs are expensive i might think about that 80 $ overclockable board, or does anyone know any cheaper version? (tho it all debends how this thing goes with the seller, dammit you should always calm yourself before writing anything).

EDIT: i have to add that monitor itself is not that bad, its actually pretty good no dead pixels a little yellow spot tho is on the uppercorner. But its outrageous that he tricks people with higher price and product title which clearly states "2B CverClock" so he does know what the 2B stands for otherwice he wouldn't write it there! So i actually payed like 50 euros more to get 2B version.

Hopefulyl GreenSum is still gonna sell reasonably priced REAL 2B Board Monitors i might buy the second monitor from him.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Well, I do not know if there are other electronics that can be overclockable or not. I just know what is in the Overlord monitors and the emaxeon listing shows the model numbers I stated. Maybe there are other parts that can be overclocked? But as far as I know, I have not heard of any.

If I was you I would directly check the model numbers on the PCB's. They should coincide with these at emaxeon
http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, really need your input on something. I'm getting a new screen, and it's either gonna be a new glossy qnix I that I'm seeing on ebay or a catleap 2b "Oc extreme" or whatever. I've gad a glossy qnix before and I loved it, but people seem to be skeptical of the new ones out there (PWM... ?) So, if the price is about 50$ difference, is the catleap a better option? Are they all natively glossy unless stated otherwise? Is that buzz issue still a thing? I need to order pretty quickly here so any input would be MUCH appreciated!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aomas*
> 
> ...the model number says this is Q270LED SE but in the front page there is a image of the packet which has the same "model number". so is there anyway to check if this is truly a 2B version or instead a SE version? (without opening the monitor).


If it says Q270 SE on the front, then its the non-oc'able model. Unfortunately higher chance of that then finding a 2b PCB inside.


----------



## aomas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> If it says Q270 SE on the front, then its the non-oc'able model. Unfortunately higher chance of that then finding a 2b PCB inside.


What do you mean in the front the monitor itself says Catleap Q270 LED on top left corner, the serial number has the SE mention and also the box says SE but i thought that meant only that its without speakers, anyway this product was not sold as a Q270 SE it was sold as a Q270 2B OverClock, and it gave the impression it is the 2B model, this is also has only DVI input. I am pretty sure this is not 2B as i can only get like 64hz then its black screen i tried different cable or do you guys have any idea what else i could try.

btw regedit/cru recgonized this as a WIT00FA (DVI).

I would confirm it but it would need that i open the monitor which would avoid warranty and any chance of possibly refunds, but i have to wait for sellers response to see whats going on. Anyway the serial number in the back of monitor and on the box does indicate this is somesort of 4F version, which could mean that the board inside is newer version.

EDIT: btw i have to add that i get some weir greenish lines and small pixel dots when i restart the computer, only in this monitor the other monitor looks normal.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, really need your input on something. I'm getting a new screen, and it's either gonna be a new glossy qnix I that I'm seeing on ebay or a catleap 2b "Oc extreme" or whatever. I've gad a glossy qnix before and I loved it, but people seem to be skeptical of the new ones out there (PWM... ?) So, if the price is about 50$ difference, is the catleap a better option? Are they all natively glossy unless stated otherwise? Is that buzz issue still a thing? I need to order pretty quickly here so any input would be MUCH appreciated!


I do think all the 2B OC models that greensum sells are genuine glossy. I only have the 1 Catleap I bought from GreenSum to judge and it is silent or so quiet that I can't hear it over my system fans and it is PWM free.

Personally I would order another Catleap if mine died, but I liked the matte Qnix's I had as well. Might as well toss a coin.


----------



## Tallyho

The model I have is non-overlockable (q270 SE) and that doesn't even bother me. 60hz is enough to make me happy. I am going through ebay/paypal once more for a refund on this screen but if that fails (i think it will) then I am all ears to anyone who has a normal PCB for sale. I don't mind installing items, i am just more annoyed that I will probably have to do it in the first place since it was new.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Your not going to find a PCB for sale here unless it is already bad. The only place to get them is from emaxeon or Overlord computers. If you know how to communicate through Aliwangwang (korean version of skype I assume) then maybe you can also get them directly from the source.

here is a listing for a 2B Catleap direct from the official Yamakasi dealer

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27aca


----------



## UNOE

Got my monitor from Green-sum yesterday. I bought the $325 model (cheapest on ebay) it shipped with DHL. Took 5 days total to get it. (My Qnix was shipped with Fedex and took 2 days). At first I thought I had a bad monitor, I booted into OSX with my same QNIX timings at 82hz and had lines thru the screen. Then I booted into Windows and was able to boot with my 112hz settings I had and everything looked fine. This monitor isn't as forgiving with timing as QNIX was but overall got 116hz out of it anything over that is black screen, no post at all. The pixel clock for 116hz is almost identical to what I could get with QNIX with no lines. But QNIX will post fine at 124hz, but it just has more and more lines the higher you go. I think that it may be GPU related though. With my 7970's I could hit 122hz with QNIX. I don't really know why I can't with the GTX 780.
No dead pixels.
What I don't like about the monitor... I don't like that the uniformity is near perfect. Every time I look at my QNIX now I see the non-unifomity of it. I noticed the QNIX uniformity issue the first week I got it but never noticed it again after that. But now every time I look at it I see it. The biggest advantage is probably the colors at higher clocks still look great with Catleap. As for the QNIX it just gets weird saturated shadows, but color profiles do help a bit. Sorry no pictures side by side the QNIX went to work with me this morning and is staying there now.


----------



## WallySimmonds

Nevermind, looks like I fail at searching


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> This monitor isn't as forgiving with timing as QNIX was but overall got 116hz out of it anything over that is black screen, no post at all. The pixel clock for 116hz is almost identical to what I could get with QNIX with no lines. But QNIX will post fine at 124hz, but it just has more and more lines the higher you go. I think that it may be GPU related though. With my 7970's I could hit 122hz with QNIX. I don't really know why I can't with the GTX 780.


Can you post the timings you are using? As I understand it, Overlord and Catleap 2B OC timings are pretty much the same. Qnix timings, the 3 I've had were totally different.

Have you tried lowering your pixel clock by loosening the timings on the Catleap? I posted the absolute lowest timings I was able to use a couple pages back. I've had several people tell me that they worked like a charm for them on both Catleap and Overlord monitors. Qnix timings have varied a lot from the ones I've had on my table.

FWIW I had the exact same feeling as you about uniformity, all the Qnix's would get worse the higher the pixel clock went, like half the screen would be darker than the other--the Catleap just stays pretty much exactly the same. As soon as the Qnix would hit the overclock on Windows loading it would dim a LOT all over.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Can you post the timings you are using? As I understand it, Overlord and Catleap 2B OC timings are pretty much the same. Qnix timings, the 3 I've had were totally different.
> 
> Have you tried lowering your pixel clock by loosening the timings on the Catleap? I posted the absolute lowest timings I was able to use a couple pages back. I've had several people tell me that they worked like a charm for them on both Catleap and Overlord monitors. Qnix timings have varied a lot from the ones I've had on my table.
> 
> FWIW I had the exact same feeling as you about uniformity, all the Qnix's would get worse the higher the pixel clock went, like half the screen would be darker than the other--the Catleap just stays pretty much exactly the same. As soon as the Qnix would hit the overclock on Windows loading it would dim a LOT all over.


I haven't had much time to play with the timings. But I know in OSX the pixel clock can't go over 330hz so I had really low timings trying to get as much out of it as possible. I don't even remember what those timings were because I went back in and deleted them. But some how I got Catleap higher up to 84hz in OSX with these timings

48 - 2
32 - 2
64 - 4
144 - 8
2704 - 1448
+ and -

I need more time and testing with windows. I will try to find your settings and post my results.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I need more time and testing with windows. I will try to find your settings and post my results.


Sorry, I was on my phone or I would have linked it earlier.


----------



## UNOE

hmm just booted now and getting red dots on background image had to lower it to 96 to get rid of the red dots.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> hmm just booted now and getting red dots on background image had to lower it to 96 to get rid of the red dots.


And you've used the Nvidia pixel clock patch?


----------



## latprod

So you're all saying that all in all, the catleap looks better regardless of clocks? Is it a bit more unforgiving when it comes to OC'ing? I was also wondering if IPS has a bit better colors than PLS? About to hit the trigger on a catleap in a bout 10 minutes







I love my qnix, But I would love to try a catleap as well.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> So you're all saying that all in all, the catleap looks better regardless of clocks? Is it a bit more unforgiving when it comes to OC'ing? I was also wondering if IPS has a bit better colors than PLS? About to hit the trigger on a catleap in a bout 10 minutes
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love my qnix, But I would love to try a catleap as well.


Nah, the Catleap is better at high clocks. It doesn't dim as much as the Qnix and to the extent that the Catleaps dim as you raise the pixel clock, it is uniform left to right and top to bottom.

The ONLY thing that distinguishes IPS from PLS in terms of color at 60Hz is the IPS panels all have a feint (almost imperceptible) slightly darker line along the bottom edge of the screen. That's all IPS panels across the industry. It's the kind of thing only a guy like Menacing Tuba would recognize and be able to track across many models. You can't go wrong with the Catleap 2B OC as long as everyone handles it gingerly along the way to your home...

Between the two I prefer Catleap to Qnix, but only by the slimmest of margins and mostly only having to do with glossy finish. I also have the idea you are a *lot* more likely to see a solid 120Hz OC on the Catleap, as opposed to something just under like 113Hz (which is where 2 of my Qnix's stopped being clean). I've seen countless countless reports of this not quite 120Hz business with the Qnix, but not so much with the Catleap. Similar comparison to the PCB being used in the Overlord units. They often just wont quite make it to 120Hz or will but get coil whine.

Then again, I've tested 3 Qnix/X-stars (tiny sample) and only 1 Catleap. The Yamakasi I have brought my monitor search to an end.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Nah, the Catleap is better at high clocks. It doesn't dim as much as the Qnix and to the extent that the Catleaps dim as you raise the pixel clock, it is uniform left to right and top to bottom.
> 
> The ONLY thing that distinguishes IPS from PLS in terms of color at 60Hz is the IPS panels all have a feint (almost imperceptible) slightly darker line along the bottom edge of the screen. That's all IPS panels across the industry. It's the kind of thing only a guy like Menacing Tuba would recognize and be able to track across many models. You can't go wrong with the Catleap 2B OC as long as everyone handles it gingerly along the way to your home...
> 
> Between the two I prefer Catleap to Qnix, but only by the slimmest of margins and mostly only having to do with glossy finish. I also have the idea you are a *lot* more likely to see a solid 120Hz OC on the Catleap, as opposed to something just under like 113Hz (which is where 2 of my Qnix's stopped being clean). I've seen countless countless reports of this not quite 120Hz business with the Qnix, but not so much with the Catleap. Similar comparison to the PCB being used in the Overlord units. They often just wont quite make it to 120Hz or will but get coil whine.
> 
> Then again, I've tested 3 Qnix/X-stars (tiny sample) and only 1 Catleap. The Yamakasi I have brought my monitor search to an end.


Thank you for a very detailed post and answer







That settles it, Catleap ordered, so I guess I gotta join this club now as well







Very excited to try something slightly different. I just hope for the sake of everything that is good that I don't get a coil whine issue, that just drives me crazy


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aomas*
> 
> What do you mean in the front the monitor itself says Catleap Q270 LED on top left corner, the serial number has the SE mention and also the box says SE but i thought that meant only that its without speakers, anyway this product was not sold as a Q270 SE it was sold as a Q270 2B OverClock, and it gave the impression it is the 2B model, this is also has only DVI input. I am pretty sure this is not 2B as i can only get like 64hz then its black screen i tried different cable or do you guys have any idea what else i could try.
> 
> btw regedit/cru recgonized this as a WIT00FA (DVI).
> 
> I would confirm it but it would need that i open the monitor which would avoid warranty and any chance of possibly refunds, but i have to wait for sellers response to see whats going on. Anyway the serial number in the back of monitor and on the box does indicate this is somesort of 4F version, which could mean that the board inside is newer version.
> 
> EDIT: btw i have to add that i get some weir greenish lines and small pixel dots when i restart the computer, only in this monitor the other monitor looks normal.


I bought my Catleap from lovelypeople on ebay. I would link the sale but they don't have it listed anymore even though they still had 10 left and they were cheaper than green-sum at the time plus a good feedback rating. The most negative or neutral feedback they had was all about makeup or car parts. I got my monitor in 2 days to Canada. I was pissed because they declared full value of the monitor even though on their ebay sale they stated they would send it as a gift and lower the value. A quick message to the seller and they sent me a refund for part of the cost of customs and taxes which is a thumbs up for a seller.

Now when I got the monitor I was slightly worried because when I looked at the serial number sticker I saw the dreaded Q270SE moniker which I seen many reports to stay away from as its supposed to be the non-overclocker model.

http://s81.photobucket.com/user/OntarioTL/media/20141015_071225_zpsb7fe67c7.jpg.html

I was relieved when I saw a few other stickers on the box that showed it was "pixel perfect" which I paid extra, and the "2B" model.

http://s81.photobucket.com/user/OntarioTL/media/20141015_071232_zpscynstrbf.jpg.html
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/OntarioTL/media/20141015_071248_zpsreqqah9h.jpg.html

Besides the resolution upgrade from 1200P, the IPS panel from MVA was a nice touch as well. And the catleap calibrated profile file from Overlord's forums made the picture just perfect. The out of box warm color just doesn't do it justice.

I can happily say I'm running at 120Hz with a few little tweaks of the timings. I highly recommend a 24AWG Dual link DVI cable from Monoprice as it's helped me reach this goal.

*Now back to Aomas problem*

Aomas, I found some quirks with my monitor when I first got it. I think with their ultra fast shipping with DHL, UPS etc might be a culprit of issues with monitors complaints. I know you are worried about warranty being voided, but I had to take mine apart as I noticed some issues with distortion running at default 60hz after having issues with distortions above that refresh rate. I was pulling my hair out that I couldn't get my monitor to overclock properly, it was just dumb luck I noticed an issue at default refresh that raised a red flag about this monitor. I too thought I was sent the wrong monitor even though the box had stickers on it.
I can happily say that there is no way they can tell you opened it up for yourself as long as you are extra careful opening and take your time to removing the bezel. There is a guide on here somewhere how to open it which I think is on the first page of this thread. There is no seal or any locktite on any screws to prove you opened it up. Just have to make sure you don't damage the plastic on the bezel. I had a guitar pick to carefully open the tabs.
Because of my discovery that 60hz had issues, I really didn't want to ship it back without all options exhausted. I had a perfect panel (no dead pixels) which I was worried I would get one with a lesser quality panel in return. I opened it up to check the internal cables and even disconnected the ribbon cables to the panel itself and the power to the backlight and reconnected them. Like I mentioned about the fast shipping, I think some of the cables were jarred loose enough that it caused the distortion issue and sure enough after putting it back together to test, there were no more issues at 60hz (whether it was AMD or Nvidia cards) and then overclocking the refresh rate went a lot more smoothly and no buzzing/whining noise from the coils to boot.
If you decide to disassemble the monitor (don't pull the panel too far from the back of the monitor or you will pull wires, my one tip), you'll probably want to do the same thing I did. Make sure it was the right controller for overclocking on the panel. For reference, this is what you need to look for. Simply put, if there is two ribbon cables connected to the top of the panel (minus the backlight power) it is the overdrivable controller. The very top PCB in the pic is the one connected to the panel itself. The middle board is covered by a metal plate so its not as easily verified as the 2 ribbon cables check. Taken from the first page of the thread.
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/OntarioTL/media/900x900px-LL-e30e6378_2Bvs2C_zps90db6b82.jpeg.html

I'm glad I took the panel apart for another reason is to remove the stupid curved grey plastic handle that covers the Vesa mounts and covers a good portion of the upper vents for cooling. I still have the front bezel off as I plan to install heatsinks to the DVI port controller and LG Overdrive chip on the panel itself for better cooling. It may not need it, but no harm in trying to extend life of the controller. I've read some had to air cool the back of the monitor to keep refresh rates up which is why I'm inclined to perform this extra step. Oh and even though this model stated there was no speakers, there are still installed but not connected to the DVI controller board.

I was a non-believer about higher refresher rates before buying this monitor. I can easily say I cannot go back to 60Hz


----------



## aomas

Hi,

Mine didn't have sticker, bigclothcraft even responded saying there should be 2B sticker to indicate it is an 2B model, i've contacted him now again waiting for the response. I Might go yours way and open it but ill wait for the seller to check the full barcode, too bad you didnt tell your full serial number (if you would please pm me).

btw were you able to overclock before without black screen or only after you checked the cables? (did u get black screen) I can only overclock 4hz which does sound like it is 2C board.

And im happy for you man, its great monitor anyway!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I just hope for the sake of everything that is good that I don't get a coil whine issue, that just drives me crazy


If you do get coil whine (actually its from the lower right choke caused by a diode underneath it), why don't you just fix it yourself since it is so easy to do? Just cut a hole above the choke (so it doesn't have the metal plate to vibrate) and put a dab of rubber cement, or hot glue, on the side of it, like all the expensive monitors have on theirs.

When I get the chance I can take a picture of my panel from the HP Z1 and show you what HP does for the coil whine on their monitors. Then I can write up a short repair guide for you if you want. Nothing to it though, just dab on a small amount of rubber cement, anything non electrically conductive will do great actually, and cut out a small hole above the lower right choke. The actual noise comes from a diode that sits under the choke, but the vibration is actually resonating off the metal TCON cover. With both the rubber to absorb it and metal missing directly above it you will reduce or not have any whine at all. This is how Apple, Dell, Asus, HP and any other expensive brand does it on their LG IPS monitors. Some manufacturers go as far as adding a large piece of foam over the top of it, and then sandwiching that down between the metal plate and the TCON board. This will surely work, but also allow heat to build up. I prefer the hole and rubber cement trick myself, but either will do.

This is assuming yours does not already have the fix applied, which I believe most already do.

EDIT: LOL, I just noticed in the images above of the TCON board that the 2B Overclockable PCB already has a large black piece of foam, cut squared, over the trouble choke. So, Yamakasi seems to have already addressed the issue.


----------



## ontariotl

I haven't included my serial number here or even send you a PM for obvious reasons (warranty). However, I don't think serial numbers will matter as the way I'm looking at it, certain monitors of the "2C" board kind were retrofitted with the "2B" board and stickers were slapped on the box. So a sequence of serial numbers won't matter.

I didn't have black screen when increasing the refresh rate, but I did have artifacts and distortion which I couldn't explain until the cable reseat.

Judging by your experience, it does sound like you were sold with a "2C" board unfortunately. You won't know 100% until you decide to crack it open or finally hear back from the ebay seller.

What I find interesting of your box the monitor was shipped in besides the missing stickers for "2B Overclock" (which maybe not all the actual monitors that overclock has this), is the stickers needed to be placed on the box for the model number of the monitor. Weird.


----------



## ontariotl

Aomas, there might be a way of verifying that it's either a 2C or 2B board installed. I was just looking at the PCB's of both in that pic I linked and noticed the 2C version does not have an audio input. Just the power and DVI port. The 2B version has a DVI port, Power and audio input. Unless 2C was revised to include an audio input, it might be the way to check for now without disassembly.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Aomas, there might be a way of verifying that it's either a 2C or 2B board installed. I was just looking at the PCB's of both in that pic I linked and noticed the 2C version does not have an audio input. Just the power and DVI port. The 2B version has a DVI port, Power and audio input. Unless 2C was revised to include an audio input, it might be the way to check for now without disassembly.


You're right, nice observation.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I just hope for the sake of everything that is good that I don't get a coil whine issue, that just drives me crazy


Do this if you want a noise free monitor.

Here are a few pics of my panel from HP, same panel the Yamakasi 2B should have (you can find more of this area on the OP). See the hole in the metal plating above the TCON board, and next to the little screw? That is, I believe, for allowing the whine to backfire and be absorbed into the background plastic of the monitor (and your wall or desk lol) and not allow it to shoot forward, off the metal, into the users area or amplify for that matter off the metal. It could also be for air cooling, if you consider that high vibration pitches create heat of its own.



The below two are close-ups of the choke itself which hides a diode within. The black blob of lines (and the red X) is my attempt to show you where you would put epoxy or rubber cement, anything that can absorb vibration and is not electrically conductive. You want to put a small dab touching the side of the choke (thing with a 220 number on it) and also touching the PCB which gives the cement a great foothold. DO NOT put cement on the very top of the choke as its not needed and may adhere your tcon board permanently to the metal. They are so close to each other that they may be touching one another, I'm not sure...

You can see in my macro shot that this choke already has a small amount of black epoxy on the side of it, however you want slightly more than this at 120hz. My Panels TCON board, custom made for HP probably, is not an overclocking model (SDC1) so it was not designed with enough material to absorb the vibration, since the vibration is probably undetectable by the human ear at 60hz. Just put enough on the sides of it, all the way around if you like, and you should be whine proof. Now have a glass of Wine and enjoy your noise free monitor.









p.s. please excuse my 3rd grade photochopping skills. I hope this helps a little bit more.


----------



## UNOE

I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting red lines on some off black images. I have 12 backgrounds that are all dark by 2 out of the 12 of them have some red line/dots. When I jiggle my DVI cable connected to the monitor have the red dots go away. I only see the dots above 100hz. I can duplicate it after reboot.

I might have to open my panel up too and reconnect all the cables.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting red lines on some off black images. I have 12 backgrounds that are all dark by 2 out of the 12 of them have some red line/dots. When I jiggle my DVI cable connected to the monitor have the red dots go away. I only see the dots above 100hz. I can duplicate it after reboot.
> 
> I might have to open my panel up too and reconnect all the cables.


Could it be the DVI cable itself thats causing this? I would try another cable before opening up the bezel.


----------



## UNOE

Yeah I tried another cable. It could be the port though.


----------



## ontariotl

Could also be timing issue, but wont hurt to take apart the monitor to reconnect the internal cables.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Could also be timing issue, but wont hurt to take apart the monitor to reconnect the internal cables.


I'm replacing the stand anyway.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Do this if you want a noise free monitor.
> 
> Here are a few pics of my panel from HP, same panel the Yamakasi 2B should have (you can find more of this area on the OP). See the hole in the metal plating above the TCON board, and next to the little screw? That is, I believe, for allowing the whine to backfire and be absorbed into the background plastic of the monitor (and your wall or desk lol) and not allow it to shoot forward, off the metal, into the users area or amplify for that matter off the metal. It could also be for air cooling, if you consider that high vibration pitches create heat of its own.
> 
> 
> 
> The below two are close-ups of the choke itself which hides a diode within. The black blob of lines (and the red X) is my attempt to show you where you would put epoxy or rubber cement, anything that can absorb vibration and is not electrically conductive. You want to put a small dab touching the side of the choke (thing with a 220 number on it) and also touching the PCB which gives the cement a great foothold. DO NOT put cement on the very top of the choke as its not needed and may adhere your tcon board permanently to the metal. They are so close to each other that they may be touching one another, I'm not sure...
> 
> You can see in my macro shot that this choke already has a small amount of black epoxy on the side of it, however you want slightly more than this at 120hz. My Panels TCON board, custom made for HP probably, is not an overclocking model (SDC1) so it was not designed with enough material to absorb the vibration, since the vibration is probably undetectable by the human ear at 60hz. Just put enough on the sides of it, all the way around if you like, and you should be whine proof. Now have a glass of Wine and enjoy your noise free monitor.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> p.s. please excuse my 3rd grade photochopping skills. I hope this helps a little bit more.


Thanks for an excellent guide on this issue! I'm hoping I won't need it, but if I do, it's been bookmarked. I think everyone here really appreciates your contributions! My catleap shipped already, I ordered the extreme OC thing from green-sum. So I'm taking a leap from a matte qnix over to a glossy catleap. I did ask green-sum if all his catleaps were glossy, and two hours after I ordered I got a reply saying I had to send them an email right after ordering to specify if I want a matte or a glossy. Had no idea they came in matte. So, luckily, just got them to get a glossy before it shipped !


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Hmm, yeah I didn't know 2B's came in a matte version either. I hope he understood you lol.

Oh and your welcome. I doubt you will need to do any of that either. There is a pdf guide that starts from the beginning showing you how to take it apart but personally I think that is self explanatory. Lol

Good luck with your Catleap. I'm getting so jealous of all you guys. Hehe


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Hmm, yeah I didn't know 2B's came in a matte version either. I hope he understood you lol.
> 
> Oh and your welcome. I doubt you will need to do any of that either. There is a pdf guide that starts from the beginning showing you how to take it apart but personally I think that is self explanatory. Lol
> 
> Good luck with your Catleap. I'm getting so jealous of all you guys. Hehe


hehe thanks man, I hope it's a good one. green-sum did confirm in an email before it shipped that it is glossy, or as they put it "Yes, in case of your item, it is a glossy."

So I can't see how there can be any misunderstandings here









And about things being self explanatory, nothing is in my case







I'm pretty useless with tools and taking things apart, but the real problem is putting it back together correctly!


----------



## latprod

So I've read every article in page 1. Seems there's a lot of outdated info, or atleast I hope it is








Firstly, there's some mention of not getting over 100hz with SLI. I've ran 120 hz in SLI with my qnix without issues, so I sincerely hope this applies to the Catleap as well. (2x 780Ti)
The second thing has to do with dvi bandwidth. I am assuming this is not an issue with tight timings and dual layer dvi?
I've ran a pixel clock that's right below 460 on my qnix, so again, I'm hoping this is sorted.
Thirdly, is 32-bit colors a problem at 120 hz? does this make it unstable?


----------



## Xaero252

Anybody managed to find a fix for the pixel shift on some panels around 85-120hz? (Horizontal lines every other pixel)

My display hits 120 without tweaking anything but I have this issue. If needed I can snap a picture showing this issue.


----------



## aomas

Hello fellow club members,

Got couple responses from bigclothcraft and it seems they did actually send me wrong version, they blame as usual a new staff member by sending the wrong version. the sadness fills my empty body with 60hz it feels like i've travelled back in time and playing commodore64 and amiga.

So he is now asking Yamakasi if they can send 2B board (i thought they are not manfucaturing those boards anymore, strange..) and i think he is out of 2B versions so he is now asking those too. So if im lucky i might have a chance getting 2b board or even better new 2B monitor with really cheap price tag. There is still chance that time is being played so the protection from ebay and paypal would end, i will update the status how this goes on.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aomas*
> 
> Hello fellow club members,
> 
> Got couple responses from bigclothcraft and it seems they did actually send me wrong version, they blame as usual a new staff member by sending the wrong version. the sadness fills my empty body with 60hz it feels like i've travelled back in time and playing commodore64 and amiga.
> 
> So he is now asking Yamakasi if they can send 2B board (i thought they are not manfucaturing those boards anymore, strange..) and i think he is out of 2B versions so he is now asking those too. So if im lucky i might have a chance getting 2b board or even better new 2B monitor with really cheap price tag. There is still chance that time is being played so the protection from ebay and paypal would end, i will update the status how this goes on.


Well first of all, that sucks. And sucks even more that they sold out of the actual product.

They might have stopped manufacturing the 2B board but there is probably a stockpile of them somewhere. I'm thinking they may have issues in trying to get the 2B board, I've read some ebay sellers have been helpful with boards and some have not and never heard from again. It maybe possible they are delaying to run out of time with ebay/paypal protection. At least if you filed a complaint with paypal and they are honest about what they are attempting, they would say the same thing of trying to resolve to paypal/ebay you would be still under the PP umbrella. Right now all you have is time, not a promise set in stone.

A few routes you can go with this.

Make a counter offer. Refund the dollar amount to cover an order of the 2B board yourself from emaxeon http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50 since it looks like you are going to have to install the board yourself either way. The panel is the same used in the 2C and 2B board install so if you have a perfect pixel panel, and no backlight bleed issues why give it up? Use it!!









Since you got the monitor at a great price, ante up and buy the board yourself from the site mentioned above and install.

Make a claim with Paypal/ebay that you were sold the wrong item and want a refund. However you may have to incur shipping cost back to them, and hope it arrives back to them in one piece without them denying the claim since it came back broken or even lost (simple way for them get out of the refund). This can be a lengthy process and headache.

Take your losses, buy one from green-sum now that they have lowered the price finally (I would recommend where I bought, but they dont have it anymore as well) and sell the one you have right now. Someone out there will still like 1440P IPS running at 60hz and at a half decent price.


----------



## DiaSin

Looking at getting one of these. *this* is the right one if I want to OC right?


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> So I've read every article in page 1. Seems there's a lot of outdated info, or atleast I hope it is
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Firstly, there's some mention of not getting over 100hz with SLI. I've ran 120 hz in SLI with my qnix without issues, so I sincerely hope this applies to the Catleap as well. (2x 780Ti)
> The second thing has to do with dvi bandwidth. I am assuming this is not an issue with tight timings and dual layer dvi?
> I've ran a pixel clock that's right below 460 on my qnix, so again, I'm hoping this is sorted.
> Thirdly, is 32-bit colors a problem at 120 hz? does this make it unstable?


Some of the information is outdated. Titan and gtx7xx series are not affected by the SLI refresh limit. The catleap is actually easier to clock than the Qnix since it uses a PLS panel and I've read owners stating the image quality degrades with overdriving the panel too high. The catleap IPS panel doesn't have this issue, but there is a possibility that 120Hz may not be always obtainable. Closer to 115Hz is more likely. Running 32bit at 120Hz is no problem as long as you have a Dual-Link DVI cable, just have to test and possibly tweak the timings. Search the net for other owners who share their timings, there maybe one that will work for you. Maybe even default will work and you can just enjoy your new toy.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Xaero252*
> 
> Anybody managed to find a fix for the pixel shift on some panels around 85-120hz? (Horizontal lines every other pixel)
> 
> My display hits 120 without tweaking anything but I have this issue. If needed I can snap a picture showing this issue.


I'd like to see this issue if you can share, I'm curious to see if its what I had before doing some timing tweaks.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Looking at getting one of these. *this* is the right one if I want to OC right?


Yup that's the one


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aomas*
> 
> Hello fellow club members,
> 
> Got couple responses from bigclothcraft and it seems they did actually send me wrong version, they blame as usual a new staff member by sending the wrong version. the sadness fills my empty body with 60hz it feels like i've travelled back in time and playing commodore64 and amiga.
> 
> So he is now asking Yamakasi if they can send 2B board (i thought they are not manufacturing those boards anymore, strange..) and i think he is out of 2B versions so he is now asking those too. So if im lucky i might have a chance getting 2b board or even better new 2B monitor with really cheap price tag. There is still chance that time is being played so the protection from ebay and paypal would end, i will update the status how this goes on.


1st contact eBay and tell them you are concerned that they will be taking things slow in order to avoid the buyer protection services. Make sure they note it on your account that you are concerned and definitely got the wrong item.

2nd, the supplier told me they have thousands of these boards. Just because one supplier stopped making them does not mean another supplier did not pick up the job, and another, and another, and another. The Chinese will make any PCB you have if the price and quantity is right. When I inquired about these boards, they instantly offered to manufacture them for me if I would send them a sample, lol. Also, Joshua at emaxeon has 124 still in stock on his side of the world alone.

3rd, maybe you can get a Catleap 2B out of them for a much cheaper price and have two fantastic monitors? Or buy the overclocking kit for it, test it to make sure it works at 120hz and then sell the thing for $500 on ebay, or at least for the amount you have paid out in total up to that point. lol, then you have all your money back and backup electronics.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> hehe thanks man, I hope it's a good one. green-sum did confirm in an email before it shipped that it is glossy, or as they put it "Yes, in case of your item, it is a glossy."
> 
> So I can't see how there can be any misunderstandings here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And about things being self explanatory, nothing is in my case
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty useless with tools and taking things apart, but the real problem is putting it back together correctly!


Looking forward to your side by side comparison








AND just to quell your concern so more, I had a lengthy communication with green-sum back in July when these beauties had that 1st huge price reduction into the $335 range. I was ready to buy one then, BUT no-where in their description did it confirm is was a true "glossy" panel without any "tempered glass" nonsense. They changed their description to include [*glossy panel] in their specifications ... so if you have any trouble just refer to my post w/quotes from green-sum (I've also saved them in my ebay profile) ... see *HERE* for this current *MODEL* ...









IE. ...
Specifications

Model: CATLEAP Q270 LED SE 2B EXTREME EDITION
Panel: LG S-IPS Panel LED **Glossy panel
*

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 1st contact eBay and tell them you are concerned that they will be taking things slow in order to avoid the buyer protection services. Make sure they note it on your account that you are concerned and definitely got the wrong item.
> 
> 2nd, the supplier told me they have thousands of these boards. Just because one supplier stopped making them does not mean another supplier did not pick up the job, and another, and another, and another. The Chinese will make any PCB you have if the price and quantity is right. When I inquired about these boards, they instantly offered to manufacture them for me if I would send them a sample, lol. Also, Joshua at emaxeon has 124 still in stock on his side of the world alone.
> 
> 3rd, maybe you can get a Catleap 2B out of them for a much cheaper price and have two fantastic monitors? Or buy the overclocking kit for it, test it to make sure it works at 120hz and then sell the thing for $500 on ebay, or at least for the amount you have paid out in total up to that point. lol, then you have all your money back and backup electronics
> 
> 
> .


Your making some nice contributions over here! +R ... you better hurry up and buy one of these and enjoy all the goodness that comes with it


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Your making some nice contributions over here! +R ... you better hurry up and buy one of these and enjoy all the goodness that comes with it


Thanks, but as Ive said before I just can't afford it man. Which is why I am building my own over a period of time, which is something I can do. Considering my 24" works just fine I see this as more of a want, then a need.

What is really going to hurt me is the GTX 980 I plan on getting. lol


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Looking forward to your side by side comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> AND just to quell your concern so more, I had a lengthy communication with green-sum back in July when these beauties had that 1st huge price reduction into the $335 range. I was ready to buy one then, BUT no-where in their description did it confirm is was a true "glossy" panel without any "tempered glass" nonsense. They changed their description to include [*glossy panel] in their specifications ... so if you have any trouble just refer to my post w/quotes from green-sum (I've also saved them in my ebay profile) ... see *HERE* for this current *MODEL* ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> :


Thanks! I'll be on them like the hot darned plague if they try any tempered glass BS. I asked accessorieswhole about their "glossy" qnix panels that have emerged recently, and they adamantly stated that there was no tempered glass, but true glossy. If these ebay sellers are still trying to trick people with tempered glass then they are not paying attention. I'll raise hell and write an email script and flood them if they refuse to replace it








Edit: I've actually started to worry now







So I fired off an email asking them to confirm. I had no idea they even did TG catleaps. When I ordered, I thought they were all natively glossy. Oh well.


----------



## blued

I dont think theres a risk of getting tempered glass on the catleap Q270, because the LG S-IPS panel used are all manufactured as glossy, so whats the point of tacking tempered glass onto them?

The fear of this issue imo arises out of the Qnix PLS panels which the vast majority are manufactured as matte by Samsung for their S27A850D monitors. The glossy PLS are for the pricier S27A970B monitors, a few which might have ended up in a Qnix or X-star. These I believe are far fewer in circulation than the mattes. And many customers demanding the glossy Qnix have been given tempered glass (on matte) due to the lack of of glossy stock.

So people think because its been an issue with the Qnix, the same might apply to the catleaps. I dont believe that at all due to the above reasons. Furthermore, have there been any instances of tempered glass on the catleaps? Havent seen or heard of any.


----------



## Xaero252

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> I'd like to see this issue if you can share, I'm curious to see if its what I had before doing some timing tweaks.


Here's the pictures:

[email protected]:

[email protected]:


It's difficult to see in the pictures without them being full size, but the task bar has the most noticeable definition of the problem. Every other row of pixels is a shade or two off, and this cycles with the oscillation of the screens refresh rate (reminiscent of scanlines but on a pixel scale). when you have both pictures opened up side by side you can see the difference night and day.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> I dont think theres a risk of getting tempered glass on the catleap Q270, because the LG S-IPS panel used are all manufactured as glossy, so whats the point of tacking tempered glass onto them?
> 
> The fear of this issue imo arises out of the Qnix PLS panels which the vast majority are manufactured as matte by Samsung for their S27A850D monitors. The glossy PLS are for the pricier S27A970B monitors, a few which might have ended up in a Qnix or X-star. These I believe are far fewer in circulation than the mattes. And many customers demanding the glossy Qnix have been given tempered glass (on matte) due to the lack of of glossy stock.
> 
> So people think because its been an issue with the Qnix, the same might apply to the catleaps. I dont believe that at all due to the above reasons. Furthermore, have there been any instances of tempered glass on the catleaps? Havent seen or heard of any.


Thanks for that, I can rest easy then


----------



## electro2u

@Xaero252 try using CRU and reducing your timings.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> @Xaero252 try using CRU and reducing your timings.


I agree.

I looked at the pics and its not the same results I was getting when I had the wrong timings.


----------



## saruin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> There's multiple listings for the same monitor on green-sums store. I went with the most inexpensive one listed. This will be my first IPS and 1440p monitor.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Official-Dealer-YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312
> 
> Seriously hoping mine doesn't come with any problems or dead pixels.


My monitor was shipped on 10/14 and just arrived this evening. I'm not the best critic but just out of the box everything seems normal. My original cord did a weird thing of displaying 4 different 'desktops' even before Windows starts (on both my GTX 970 SLI machine and low end AMD one). I then noticed my cord says 'single link' even though the plugs look identical. The one that comes with the monitor works fine. No dead or stuck pixels that I can notice off the bat but I'll do more in-depth tests. There is not very, imo, noticeable BLB on the rightmost edge of the screen that extends about half an inch but that's about it. Still in awe with this monitor until I do more testing and eventually OC. Very happy so far with this purchase, although I am coming from a 1080p TN panel.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> I dont think theres a risk of getting tempered glass on the catleap Q270, because the LG S-IPS panel used are all manufactured as glossy, so whats the point of tacking tempered glass onto them?
> 
> The fear of this issue imo arises out of the Qnix PLS panels which the vast majority are manufactured as matte by Samsung for their S27A850D monitors. The glossy PLS are for the pricier S27A970B monitors, a few which might have ended up in a Qnix or X-star. These I believe are far fewer in circulation than the mattes. And many customers demanding the glossy Qnix have been given tempered glass (on matte) due to the lack of of glossy stock.
> 
> So people think because its been an issue with the Qnix, the same might apply to the catleaps. I dont believe that at all due to the above reasons. Furthermore, have there been any instances of tempered glass on the catleaps? Havent seen or heard of any.


Well your wrong ... not going to get in a big tizzy with you, but the Catleaps do come with tempered glass to "supposedly" be like the apple's monitors and for some they're a benefit in commercial surroundings for ease of maintenance ...

YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 Computer Monitor + Tempered glass
green-sum example *HERE* ... this is just one of many examples









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Thanks for that, I can rest easy then


Sorry if my post scared you, it was meant to do just the opposite and give you more peace of mind! ...








I think you'll be fine, but buyer beware that wholeheartedly just trusts a Korean reseller, especially given the return policies and potential costs


----------



## ontariotl

It is certainly high risk buying from overseas compared to your own backyard, but it can be rewarding if all pans out.

I mean if you are investing in something you really cant afford to take a chance on, dont do it.


----------



## saruin

Just a short follow up but after spending a couple of hours OCing using the Nvidia guide from Page 1, I was only able to do 85hz stable (GTX 970 SLI and using automatic timings) without running into horizontal lines across my screen. I was surprised I wasn't able to tell the difference going from 60hz after playing a few games with VSync on (BF3, Skyrim, Borderlands 2). My Fraps counter displayed consistent max fps for whatever refresh rate I had going so I can tell it was working properly. I'll admit I also can't really seem to notice inferior response time compared to my '1ms response time' Samsung TN panel (since I'm not into competitive gaming maybe?). With that being said I'm really glad I stuck with this monitor over the Swift (so far at least). Big thanks to those who've been helpful







! I will stick around this forum to see what guys are up to here and there.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well your wrong ... not going to get in a big tizzy with you, but the Catleaps do come with tempered glass to "supposedly" be like the apple's monitors and for some they're a benefit in commercial surroundings for ease of maintenance ...
> 
> YAMAKASI CATLEAP Q270 SE 27" LED 2560X1440 Computer Monitor + Tempered glass
> green-sum example *HERE* ... this is just one of many examples
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry if my post scared you, it was meant to do just the opposite and give you more peace of mind! ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think you'll be fine, but buyer beware that wholeheartedly just trusts a Korean reseller, especially given the return policies and potential costs


Hehe no worries, got a response from green-sum today : "As for your question about the glossy panel, yes, it is a true glossy panel, not tempered gloss."
So, let's hope that settles it









So I guess the lesson we learn from all this is specify everything when ordering, don't trust the listing itself. Just say " I want a proper OC monitor, true glossy, not tempered"


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> Just a short follow up but after spending a couple of hours OCing using the Nvidia guide from Page 1, I was only able to do 85hz stable (GTX 970 SLI and using automatic timings) without running into horizontal lines across my screen. I was surprised I wasn't able to tell the difference going from 60hz after playing a few games with VSync on (BF3, Skyrim, Borderlands 2). My Fraps counter displayed consistent max fps for whatever refresh rate I had going so I can tell it was working properly. I'll admit I also can't really seem to notice inferior response time compared to my '1ms response time' Samsung TN panel (since I'm not into competitive gaming maybe?). With that being said I'm really glad I stuck with this monitor over the Swift (so far at least). Big thanks to those who've been helpful
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ! I will stick around this forum to see what guys are up to here and there.


Automatic timings...

The real trick is to use ToastyX's Custom Resolution Utility and really tweak the timings super tight and low:

1ms response time at 60hz not so eye popping, and 85hz also not very noticeable. 120hz should be. To me it's like nails on a chalkboard going back to 60hz. Just moving the mouse around is ugly.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well your wrong ... not going to get in a big tizzy with you, but the Catleaps do come with tempered glass to "supposedly" be like the apple's monitors and for some they're a benefit in commercial surroundings for ease of maintenance


OK, didnt know that. But tempered glass on "clear" panels should not be an issue. Where tempered glass got a bad name is it being on top of matte screens like on many of the Qnix panels (adding reflections that the AG coating is supposed to minimize). So I dont think I would mind tempered glass on catleaps but would certainly object to it on a matte Qnix.


----------



## latprod

By the way guys, forgot to ask, but the OC method for 780Ti's is the same for the Catleaps as the Qnix? Just install catleap driver, fire up NVCP and create custom resolution? No CRU or patching?


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> By the way guys, forgot to ask, but the OC method for 780Ti's is the same for the Catleaps as the Qnix? Just install catleap driver, fire up NVCP and create custom resolution? No CRU or patching?


Pretty much unless you need to tweak the timings to an advanced level, NVCP should do the trick.


----------



## aomas

Hello my Leapers Clubbers,

So i've been talking back and forth one message everyday (because the timezones), and we've gotten a conclusion (hopefully). Bigclothcraft has promised to send me 2B board even when manufacturer said that it is not reccommended and might not work.
He also was offering me a "fair" price normal monitor as a "special discount" but i found that special discount was same price than one other shop.
Anyway i have high believes that the bigclothcraft is fair seller and can solve problems, but to my defense bigclothcraft would not have able to use stall tactics because i instantly opened Request Refund (ebay buyer protection) .

Anyway nothing has been sent yet but i have my hopes up and this seems to be just bad luck that they sent me wrong model, thats life that can happen to any of us.

About my monitor i do have little BLB on top left corner it seems like something is pushing to too hard making light blend, i might have to open this baby up and loose something.
I also have that Yellow Sport on right corner, it is small and when i try to push it with my hand or tap it with pen it kidna fades away but comes back slowly. (any ideas to fix this?)


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> OK, didnt know that. But tempered glass on "clear" panels should not be an issue. Where tempered glass got a bad name is it being on top of matte screens like on many of the Qnix panels (adding reflections that the AG coating is supposed to minimize). So I dont think I would mind tempered glass on catleaps but would certainly object to it on a matte Qnix.


Hey no problem







... But I've done a lot of research over the years and I'd caution you about the placement of tempered glass even on top of an LG Glossy








The tempered glass will diffuse more light adding more reflections AND cause your "blacks" to be more greyed out ...

I'll refer to MenacingTuba a guru of panel quality/characteristics ... more pics *Here*









Glass vs Glossy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aomas*
> 
> Hello my Leapers Clubbers,
> 
> So i've been talking back and forth one message everyday (because the timezones), and we've gotten a conclusion (hopefully). Bigclothcraft has promised to send me 2B board even when manufacturer said that it is not reccommended and might not work.
> He also was offering me a "fair" price normal monitor as a "special discount" but i found that special discount was same price than one other shop.
> Anyway i have high believes that the bigclothcraft is fair seller and can solve problems, but to my defense bigclothcraft would not have able to use stall tactics because i instantly opened Request Refund (ebay buyer protection) .
> 
> Anyway nothing has been sent yet but i have my hopes up and this seems to be just bad luck that they sent me wrong model, thats life that can happen to any of us.
> 
> About my monitor i do have little BLB on top left corner it seems like something is pushing to too hard making light blend, i might have to open this baby up and loose something.
> I also have that Yellow Sport on right corner, it is small and when i try to push it with my hand or tap it with pen it kidna fades away but comes back slowly. (any ideas to fix this?)


This is great news! ... green-sum is one of the largest re-sellers, it's where my QNIX came from quite some time ago ... and it looks like they are making a genuine effort to honor your expectations/wishes


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I might have to get rid of my glass at some point. Thankfully mine is removable with a simple twist of a screw driver and a dozen screws. However, I been planning on using the glass bezel as a means to mount mine, so I am going to go through with it until I come up with another plan. The beauty of my glass edge to edge bezel kinda threw me off and screwed with my mind as I was thinking how the heck can I ignore both the beauty of it and the convenience of a built in mounting method already present.

But now with all this talk about glossy vs matte vs glass, I am thinking that next spring I will just dig in and build a vesa mount for it. What I like about my Dell is that the screen NEVER attracts dust and I live in a very dusty environment just 20 yards off a busy dirt/gravel road. I am not sure if the LG panel I have will do the same for me and repel dust particles as my Dell surely does. The glass will surely be easier to clean every now and then.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I'm trying to figure out why I'm getting red lines on some off black images. I have 12 backgrounds that are all dark by 2 out of the 12 of them have some red line/dots. When I jiggle my DVI cable connected to the monitor have the red dots go away. I only see the dots above 100hz. I can duplicate it after reboot.
> 
> I might have to open my panel up too and reconnect all the cables.


I am having the same issue purchased a catleap this week and anything above 100 gives me this dots lines did you solved this ???

Also could it be we are limited to a 100hz overclock????


----------



## 10terabyte

I wanted to post an update in regards to reliability. I bought a Yamikasi back in 2012, and it's now dead. One day a few months back, half the screen went dim, so I was assuming the LEDs gave out. I decided to "open 'er up" and I found some worrysome stuff. One of the main power connectors for the panel had burned, and become charred. Thank God this thing didn't burn my house down.

Also, as others have probably reported the power brick for this thing ran VERY hot...like too hot to hold for more than 10 seconds or so. ****e, I say, ****e.


----------



## saruin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Automatic timings...
> 
> The real trick is to use ToastyX's Custom Resolution Utility and really tweak the timings super tight and low:
> 
> 1ms response time at 60hz not so eye popping, and 85hz also not very noticeable. 120hz should be. To me it's like nails on a chalkboard going back to 60hz. Just moving the mouse around is ugly.


I was able to use CRU on my AMD rig but my custom resolutions I try to set with CRU aren't showing in the Nvidia Control Panel nor through Windows on my Intel rig. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but I did install the Catleap_Q270_OC.inf driver if that has anything to do with it. So far the only custom settings I can set up are through Nvidia only. Even then, I can't seem to delete custom settings unless I go through reinstalling Nvidia's display drivers which isn't a big deal.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> I was able to use CRU on my AMD rig but my custom resolutions I try to set with CRU aren't showing in the Nvidia Control Panel nor through Windows on my Intel rig. Not sure what I'm doing wrong but I did install the Catleap_Q270_OC.inf driver if that has anything to do with it. So far the only custom settings I can set up are through Nvidia only. Even then, I can't seem to delete custom settings unless I go through reinstalling Nvidia's display drivers which isn't a big deal.


I don't think the inf is necessary. I don't use it on my Intel rig with an amd GPU. Are you using the nvidia pixel clock patch?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I am having the same issue purchased a catleap this week and anything above 100 gives me this dots lines did you solved this ???
> 
> Also could it be we are limited to a 100hz overclock????


I haven't been able to solve it no. Not sure why its lower.

I also think I may have tempered glass version but I can't tell the difference. When I shine a flashlight at the panel I see rainbow reflections, but the reflections are overall not that reflective in day time. So thats why I'm not sure. My glossy SA950 samsung monitor is more reflective than this but doesn't have that rainbow effect when light is shinning on it.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I haven't been able to solve it no. Not sure why its lower.
> 
> I also think I may have tempered glass version but I can't tell the difference. When I shine a flashlight at the panel I see rainbow reflections, but the reflections are overall not that reflective in day time. So thats why I'm not sure. My glossy SA950 samsung monitor is more reflective than this but doesn't have that rainbow effect when light is shinning on it.


Did you tried reconnecting the cables as you mentioned ??? I

Im out for the weekend but when i get home on monday i will remove and reconnect since i will be using my vesa mount


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Did you tried reconnecting the cables as you mentioned ??? I
> 
> Im out for the weekend but when i get home on monday i will remove and reconnect since i will be using my vesa mount


No, I plan to do the same but not sure what day I will get a chance to do it.

100hz is fine with me though. Even though the Qnix runs 12hz higher. This looks so much better so I don't really care to much. Still leaving qnix at work.


----------



## aomas

Holymoly,

Remember when i told about that i had small lightbleed, so yeah i read somewhere that when you takeout your bezel and install some screws on the metal (it already had readymade holes for screws) then tightened them (i used small screws just to be on safeside). I now have perfect monitor qualitywise i dont have any backlight bleed, nor dead pixels. That got me thinkin why did not they add screws on the metal when they were manufacturing these monitors if it strastically affect the blacklight bleed. Now if i only get that 2B board and im more than happy for the monitor, hopfully mine wont burn out like the guy couple posts above. (btw i think if u change new cables your monitor might be in working condition..)

Quick Guide:

What you need:
-Screwdriver
-Small screws (use the monitors screws as an example of max lenght and size)
-Butterknife or fingernails or somethings else to unlock those clips

Steps: (i know there is another guide at the first page)
1. Unplug your monitor
2. Put it on your bed or table, panel downside (carefully dont scratch it)
3. Use screwdrivers on the eight holes and get those screws out.
4. Then flip monitor on backside so the panel is looking upwards.
5. Use butterknife carefully to unclip the clips there are about 8 clips on everyside, try to push outwards from your way (dont try too much at a time or you gonna break the plastic)
6. Then take of the monitor bezel (you dont need to even take it off completely if you only have backlight bleed only one side, just unclip that side and put some screws in).
7. Add the screws on the holes and tighten.
Just remembered you can only add screws to the top and bottom part of the metal holding the panel, because sides already have screws (i did tighten them a little).

Additional Step, you can plug in and turn monitor on when bezel is off and then tighten the screws and you can see the effect happeniing immedietaly, this is the way i did it.


----------



## saruin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I don't think the inf is necessary. I don't use it on my Intel rig with an amd GPU. Are you using the nvidia pixel clock patch?


Ok, this did the trick it looks like! I installed the patcher and now my custom resolutions are showing up in the control panel. Under PowerStrip, double clicking the camera icon shows that I'm running at 110Hz refresh rate that I've tested with no artifacts showing. However, of the few games I've tested and observing the Fraps counter, it appears I'm looking at a 73/74hz (or fps) max refresh rate still running at 110Hz (some games are just stuck at 60hz/fps). Gameplay doesn't appear smoother compared to 60hz (or 60fps) but actually jittery in some regards. During some loading here and there I'll see the fps counter jump to 110fps but never the case during actual gameplay where it seems stuck at that 73/74hz rate.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> Ok, this did the trick it looks like! I installed the patcher and now my custom resolutions are showing up in the control panel. Under PowerStrip, double clicking the camera icon shows that I'm running at 110Hz refresh rate that I've tested with no artifacts showing. However, of the few games I've tested and observing the Fraps counter, it appears I'm looking at a 73/74hz (or fps) max refresh rate still running at 110Hz (some games are just stuck at 60hz/fps). Gameplay doesn't appear smoother compared to 60hz (or 60fps) but actually jittery in some regards. During some loading here and there I'll see the fps counter jump to 110fps but never the case during actual gameplay where it seems stuck at that 73/74hz rate.


Well, we're on the right track








Refresh rate and FPS are completely different things. The only thing that will keep your FPS from going higher is Vsync or a software framerate limiter. I suspect you have entered a 73/74FPS framerate cap in powerstrip or something.

Edit: Actually, 73/74 is pretty much exactly 2/3rds of 110. It's possible that your Nvidia settings are limiting the framerate to that number because of Vsync. What is happening if that's the case is that when your settings are too high for your graphics card to push 110FPS (when you aren't able to match your framerate to your refresh rate) the driver is reducing the framerate to 2/3rds of the refresh rate. Usually it's half, but Nvidia Vsync is smart and I haven't used their cards in a bit, maybe that's how it works. Try lowering your graphics settings. It would account for the stutter.


----------



## Cifali

I'm so sad right now =/

Returned to Shipper


----------



## Tallyho

At the moment I have a return case that ebay opened up for me since my seller was playing a waiting game for 30 days to pass till he could ignore me outright. Thankfully ebay was reasonable to my issues and worked with me make my seller refund me my purchase. I don't think I will be joining the yamakasi catleap monitor club after this, not after dealing with this seller.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> I'm so sad right now =/
> 
> Returned to Shipper


Why would your customs dept do that to you? Did you try contacting DHL immediately for an explanation? Wouldn't FedEx have been a better service going to Brazil?

I am so sorry you have to experience seeing that happen. I hope it is taken care of in a timely manner.


----------



## Cifali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Why would your customs dept do that to you? Did you try contacting DHL immediately for an explanation? Wouldn't FedEx have been a better service going to Brazil?
> 
> I am so sorry you have to experience seeing that happen. I hope it is taken care of in a timely manner.


I seriously don't know why this is happening. But after a little research, we are currently changing presidents and as the one thats actually the president right now made some strict rules about importing. Because of that problem that I said in a earlier post about everything being overpriced. They are scared of the people realizing thats just so much cheaper bringing it from another country personally. I didn't get the chance to contact DHL as the brazilian service of DHL doesn't work at all on weekends. I've contacted green-sum also, but got no answer yet.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> I seriously don't know why this is happening. But after a little research, we are currently changing presidents and as the one thats actually the president right now made some strict rules about importing. Because of that problem that I said in a earlier post about everything being overpriced. They are scared of the people realizing thats just so much cheaper bringing it from another country personally. I didn't get the chance to contact DHL as the brazilian service of DHL doesn't work at all on weekends. I've contacted green-sum also, but got no answer yet.


Hmm, so let me see if I got this right. They want you to buy a Brazilian manufactured 2560x1440 IPS monitor? REALLY??? I can see them getting upset about you importing say a few tons of Sugar, Coffee, Orange Juice or Beef products, considering Brazil is the world's largest producer of those, but a Computer display? Don't they have brains over at the customs dept to know what should and shouldn't come into the country?

Wow, so sorry about that injustice. I hope you get it solved and I really hope its just a typo or some sort of oversight and not too late to correct. My Customs dept would have their ear drums busted from my rant. lol

Good luck man


----------



## electro2u

Did they maybe Return to shipper because the shipper lied about the value of the monitor on the customs form?


----------



## Cifali

I don't think so, since they don't have a fixed price on it. Also I don't think they know whats the difference between a 1440p and a 1080p monitor and I'm certain that they don't know what a overclocking monitor is. I mean if a korean seller declares lets say... 200 dollars for the monitor, how would they not accept it? I mean... you can buy a benq, acer, LG 27" 1080p monitor for 200 dollars. They would price a korean one much lower I guess. I don't see that being the reason


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> I don't think so, since they don't have a fixed price on it. Also I don't think they know whats the difference between a 1440p and a 1080p monitor and I'm certain that they don't know what a overclocking monitor is. I mean if a korean seller declares lets say... 200 dollars for the monitor, how would they not accept it? I mean... you can buy a benq, acer, LG 27" 1080p monitor for 200 dollars. They would price a korean one much lower I guess. I don't see that being the reason


UNLESS, they opened it to make sure drugs were not being imported, lol, and then noticed your receipt that said it was twice the cost of what the seller declared as its value. I really can't imagine any other reason why it would be returned. OH Wait, maybe the shipping address and all contact info on the box has become destroyed, so they have no other recourse but to ship back to the sellers address which is still just barely visible.


----------



## Cifali

Well they are gonna tell green-sum what the reason was and when he replies it to me, I'll tell you guys. Until than there's not much I can do really..


----------



## Shane1244

Haven't been here in months, I bought a 2C monitor a long long time ago and I love it, I've been itching to get higher than 60Hz though.

So two questions, for the time being is there anything that I can do to boost the frequency of my 2C catleap, and second question would be is there a way to buy 2B parts yet and just implant them into my catleap.

hi shane how are you doing
you are a stinky boy


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244*
> 
> Haven't been here in months, I bought a 2C monitor a long long time ago and I love it, I've been itching to get higher than 60Hz though.
> 
> So two questions, for the time being is there anything that I can do to boost the frequency of my 2C catleap, and second question would be is there a way to buy 2B parts yet and just implant them into my catleap.


Yup, you most certainly can buy the 2B parts to convert your panel to run higher than 60Hz.

http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tallyho*
> 
> At the moment I have a return case that ebay opened up for me since my seller was playing a waiting game for 30 days to pass till he could ignore me outright. Thankfully ebay was reasonable to my issues and worked with me make my seller refund me my purchase. I don't think I will be joining the yamakasi catleap monitor club after this, not after dealing with this seller.


Which seller?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> Well they are gonna tell green-sum what the reason was and when he replies it to me, I'll tell you guys. Until than there's not much I can do really..


wow that is seriously disappointing, I would go ballistic if that happened to me.


----------



## Tallyho

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Which seller?


Bigclothcraft


----------



## latprod

Ok, so I just got my new Catleap, and it looks amazing, no BLB at all which I cannot believe when you look at my old Qnix, and also no dead pixels. But, some weird windows issues... that I just don't get. When i fire up powerstrip, the screen flashed like crazy for five seconds and stopped. Then when I tried to use My previous DVI output, the screen goes mental, just distorted green and white images. I switch, and it looks fine. What?
It also does not turn on when booting, so I can't access my BIOS; the screen only activates when windows boots.
Also... I tried setting a 120 hz refresh rate, green lines... then i switched to 96 and it was fine. But when I tried to test it with Ufo Frame Skip test, it show a valid 120hz Refresh rate that was frameskipping like mental.
I've done a fresh driver reinstall and removed my qnix driver before switching..is there anything else I've forgotten to do? Is this like a driver issue or what is going on?

edit: When trying to adjust colors with powerstrip, the monitor freaks out and acts like i tried to enable a 200hz refresh rate. what the holy grail!?


----------



## latprod

Has anyone got any good NVCP timings? I tried using the ones over at the Qnix forums, but they aren't working very well. At the moment I can only reach 96 hz


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> No, I plan to do the same but not sure what day I will get a chance to do it.
> 
> 100hz is fine with me though. Even though the Qnix runs 12hz higher. This looks so much better so I don't really care to much. Still leaving qnix at work.


Reporting back ..... Opened the monitor and reconnected everything but no luck anything above 100Hz gives me these weird red dots i was hoping for a 120Hz

I wonder if i could just swap the board or the OC is limited to the screen itself


----------



## latprod

I get those red dots too man, as soon as i try above 100. The qnix was much more forgiving....


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Reporting back ..... Opened the monitor and reconnected everything but no luck anything above 100Hz gives me these weird red dots i was hoping for a 120Hz
> 
> I wonder if i could just swap the board or the OC is limited to the screen itself


Its more likely to be the boards responsible, the tcon board specifically is what controls the timings. With that said, you will not know until you try. Good thing is that if you do decide to try a new OC kit, you will have a backup board set, and if you want to sell it, you probably won't have to wait very long before someone here really needs it, LOL...


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Its more likely to be the boards responsible, the tcon board specifically is what controls the timings. With that said, you will not know until you try. Good thing is that if you do decide to try a new OC kit, you will have a backup board set, and if you want to sell it, you probably won't have to wait very long before someone here really needs it, LOL...


Well it seems that I didn't thought this one through I had a crossover before and now that I saw the link someone posted earlier on this thread it seems that the board is compatible with it ... I'm thinking of ordering one and test first on the catleap and pass the best board to the crossover...

I originally wanted a single display but now it seems I will need a dual monitor stand ...









Did anyone here ordered the OC kit ???? How are the results so far ???


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Well it seems that I didn't thought this one through I had a crossover before and now that I saw the link someone posted earlier on this thread it seems that the board is compatible with it ... I'm thinking of ordering one and test first on the catleap and pass the best board to the crossover...
> 
> I originally wanted a single display but now it seems I will need a dual monitor stand ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did anyone here ordered the OC kit ???? How are the results so far ???


I ordered one last Friday, but I do not have it yet. In fact I think it shipped today. I still do not have a power brick or DVI-D cable yet, so no help from me sorry. The kit is the exact same hardware inside the Tempest OC monitors, so if you want results I would look at reviews on them. Both the Yamakasi 2B and Tempest OC have the same exact parts inside. The only difference is the Tempest is tested before being shipped. Not sure if they test the 2B's but maybe they do, who knows?

No two boards will OC the same, its just like CPU and Motherboards, they do not overclock identically to each other even though they may be the same exact models. Like all hardware it is a crap shoot on getting the best possible hardware.









EDIT: By the way, it seems to be the LVDS cables that dictate how high you can go on the overclocks. So switching around internal cables can make all the difference.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I ordered one last Friday, but I do not have it yet. In fact I think it shipped today. I still do not have a power brick or DVI-D cable yet, so no help from me sorry. The kit is the exact same hardware inside the Tempest OC monitors, so if you want results I would look at reviews on them. Both the Yamakasi 2B and Tempest OC have the same exact parts inside. The only difference is the Tempest is tested before being shipped. Not sure if they test the 2B's but maybe they do, who knows?
> 
> No two boards will OC the same, its just like CPU and Motherboards, they do not overclock identically to each other even though they may be the same exact models. Like all hardware it is a crap shoot on getting the best possible hardware.


Thanks man .... well i went ahead and ordered one i could always use it on my crossover i really love it or keep it as a backup and if it clocks to 120hz plus better









Lets just hope that i can manage a 1 120Hz out of all this possible combinations

I`ll report back when the PCB arrives


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Reporting back ..... Opened the monitor and reconnected everything but no luck anything above 100Hz gives me these weird red dots i was hoping for a 120Hz
> 
> I wonder if i could just swap the board or the OC is limited to the screen itself


Is yours temerered glass ? Did you see tape where the glass might be taped on ?

I still can't tell if mine is glossy or glass. When I shine light at it I see rainbow patterns.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Is yours temerered glass ? Did you see tape where the glass might be taped on ?
> 
> I still can't tell if mine is glossy or glass. When I shine light at it I see rainbow patterns.


Yeah i also got the rainbow effect when i shine my cellphone light ..... But its the same as effect on the crossover.... I did not recalled seeing any tape when i took apart the monitor got a picture of what you are talking about ????


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Thanks man .... well i went ahead and ordered one i could always use it on my crossover i really love it or keep it as a backup and if it clocks to 120hz plus better
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Lets just hope that i can manage a 1 120Hz out of all this possible combinations
> 
> I`ll report back when the PCB arrives


Did you get it from emaxeon or Overlord? if from emaxeon, then it will come direct from China, and if that is the case it is not guaranteed to overclock, but all should do at least 100hz. I think Overlord test theirs all the way to 120hz, but do not guarantee above 96hz since again it is cabling that matters most, not to mention they can not guarantee users will use the included cables that come with the kits.

Good luck with your experiment. I hope we both get good hardware... I would be happy with 96hz myself though.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I get those red dots too man, as soon as i try above 100. The qnix was much more forgiving....


Mmm, I'm getting scared of buying a catleap 2b extreme now that I've seen this issue being reported twice recently. I don't know if this is based on luck or these " Q270 *SE* 2B extreme" monitors can't push further than 96hz. Try to search for timings on 120hz.net or here and Let us know if you find something interesting. Good luck!


----------



## Shane1244

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Yup, you most certainly can buy the 2B parts to convert your panel to run higher than 60Hz.
> 
> http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50


Awesome!! Pretty much ready to order one.. Is there any problems that I should know about before ordering it? Is it pretty much a guarantee to get at least 100hz? And has there been a decent amount of people that have done the upgrade?


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Did you get it from emaxeon or Overlord? if from emaxeon, then it will come direct from China, and if that is the case it is not guaranteed to overclock, but all should do at least 100hz. I think Overlord test theirs all the way to 120hz, but do not guarantee above 96hz since again it is cabling that matters most, not to mention they can not guarantee users will use the included cables that come with the kits.
> 
> Good luck with your experiment. I hope we both get good hardware... I would be happy with 96hz myself though.


I got it from emaxeon .... Im just hoping to get a good clock on either one of my 2 monitors

Now i was able to squeeze a bit more from my monitor using this timings

Front Porch: 48-1
Sync Width: 32-1
Total Pixels: 2705 - 1445

Maybe we need some timing magic to hit 120Hz ????


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shane1244*
> 
> Awesome!! Pretty much ready to order one.. Is there any problems that I should know about before ordering it? Is it pretty much a guarantee to get at least 100hz? And has there been a decent amount of people that have done the upgrade?


There is no garauntee to hit 120hz, it is a luck of the draw. Ive read most can do 100-115hz with some timing adjustments. If you have the right set up, right timings and good dual link dvi cable you could possibly reach the golden 120hz mark.

I know overlord tests his boards to run at 96hz before selling them, but could possibly go higher.

The only thing is you wont know what you can get unless you try.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> Yeah i also got the rainbow effect when i shine my cellphone light ..... But its the same as effect on the crossover.... I did not recalled seeing any tape when i took apart the monitor got a picture of what you are talking about ????


Earlier someone said that if it has glass there will be tape I haven't opened mine yet.


----------



## desiromeo

Hi guys im trying to decide between this Catleap 2B from ebay, or the single input Qnix monitor from amazon. Both are going for $350. After reading the OP it seems the Catleaps dont overclock at all anymore? unless you buy the pcb? Im only looking to get atleast 96hz and ill be happy. Can anyone suggest which is better at the moment? Im running a GTX 970 and definitely want a 1440p monitor with a budget of 350 pretty much.

Side note - Is the overclocking still as complex as whats in the OP? Isnt it just a simple as downloading some nvidia software and changing an option?


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I ordered one last Friday, but I do not have it yet. In fact I think it shipped today. I still do not have a power brick or DVI-D cable yet, so no help from me sorry. The kit is the exact same hardware inside the Tempest OC monitors, so if you want results I would look at reviews on them. Both the Yamakasi 2B and Tempest OC have the same exact parts inside. The only difference is the Tempest is tested before being shipped. Not sure if they test the 2B's but maybe they do, who knows?
> 
> No two boards will OC the same, its just like CPU and Motherboards, they do not overclock identically to each other even though they may be the same exact models. Like all hardware it is a crap shoot on getting the best possible hardware.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: By the way, it seems to be the LVDS cables that dictate how high you can go on the overclocks. So switching around internal cables can make all the difference.


Where can you order said cables


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> Hi guys im trying to decide between this Catleap 2B from ebay, or the single input Qnix monitor from amazon. Both are going for $350. After reading the OP it seems the Catleaps dont overclock at all anymore? unless you buy the pcb? Im only looking to get atleast 96hz and ill be happy. Can anyone suggest which is better at the moment? Im running a GTX 970 and definitely want a 1440p monitor with a budget of 350 pretty much.
> 
> Side note - Is the overclocking still as complex as whats in the OP? Isnt it just a simple as downloading some nvidia software and changing an option?


I own both QNIX is 114hz the Catleap 100hz. Catleap much better colors, but more glare. QNIX matte would be the way to go if your have windows or lots of lighting in the room. Personally I prefer the Catleap at home in the evening and prefer QNIX at work where I have a window 2 feet from monitor.

btw there is three people who just bought 2B from ebay this last two weeks we all are hitting 100hz. Your reading that info from the OP and it hasn't been updated for awhile. Anything with 2B should overclock. Anything thats not wont.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Where can you order said cables


LVDS cables are hard to get, and there are many different connectors. I have not put in enough research and hunting to find them as of yet, but I have found them.

What I would like to do is make my own. All I need to do is figure out how the pins are removed and replace them with new ones with better copper wire and shielding. But many guys at many of these website such as 120hz etc, have said that it is rare to get an actual bad DVI cable, and much more common for the LVDS cable to be causing the overclocking limit. They have seen where a monitor would not overclock worth crap, and then they replaced the LVDS cables and bam 120hz immediately. These Korean monitors use the absolute cheapest possible LVDS cables.

That is all I know. If you find out any further info on materials to make these in much higher quality let me know and I will start building them for all the members here


----------



## Cifali

So my returned to shipper case turned into this...


Spoiler: green-sum response



Hello,

Thank you for your quick response.

After your purchased product is returned, we can reissue the shipment back to you. We can also input the information you've provided along with your product. What we can do is add your CPF number in the invoice and send a screenshot of the description when shipping your product.

However, there will be another fee for reshipping your purchase which is $120. If you know for sure that the information you've provided will allow the purchased product to go through, we can accept a discounted price for $100 for the shipment.

Please understand that we have no control over customs policy and we do not have knowledge of all policies worldwide.

Best regards,

- green-sum





Spoiler: My last response before I contacted ebay



Dear green-sum,

Wait... It's not my fault you didn't complete the application. You are the seller, you have the shipping form, so you should inform your customer what information he needs to send to you for the safe shipping. Don't push this on me... I chose your most expensive product for this kind and still have this problem? not gonna happen



Conclusion: I called ebay, they said I'm in my rights and they'll give green-sum 2 options: send it free shipping again as the item is announced to be or return my full money since it was free shipping.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-2560x1440-IPS-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/111051274052?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


----------



## desiromeo

I was about to buy that same monitor..what problem did you incur?

Also are there any customs that are charged for importing these monitors?


----------



## desiromeo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I own both QNIX is 114hz the Catleap 100hz. Catleap much better colors, but more glare. QNIX matte would be the way to go if your have windows or lots of lighting in the room. Personally I prefer the Catleap at home in the evening and prefer QNIX at work where I have a window 2 feet from monitor.
> 
> btw there is three people who just bought 2B from ebay this last two weeks we all are hitting 100hz. Your reading that info from the OP and it hasn't been updated for awhile. Anything with 2B should overclock. Anything thats not wont.


Hi thank you for the quick response...When you say much better colors on the catleap bcuz of the glossy display..what exactly is much better?? Looking at both monitor the catleap looks a little better aesthetically. Any difference in build quality? I do have windows but dont think they would much of an issue to pick matte over glossy. Were you able to hit 114hz without messing with the timings or w.e?

Is the stand any better on the catleap? Also is there any difference between the IPS catleap vs the PLS Qnix?


----------



## Cifali

Well in my case he had to ship it to Brazil because thats where I live... But he forgot to put my CPF which is ID number in the box/invoice so they sended back to him. He is a good seller but screwed up on my purchase, but wants me to pay for his mistake. Well at leasted he wanted... good thing ebay is so fast and got the buyers back hahaha


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> So my returned to shipper case turned into this...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: green-sum response
> 
> 
> 
> Hello,
> 
> Thank you for your quick response.
> 
> After your purchased product is returned, we can reissue the shipment back to you. We can also input the information you've provided along with your product. What we can do is add your CPF number in the invoice and send a screenshot of the description when shipping your product.
> 
> However, there will be another fee for reshipping your purchase which is $120. If you know for sure that the information you've provided will allow the purchased product to go through, we can accept a discounted price for $100 for the shipment.
> 
> Please understand that we have no control over customs policy and we do not have knowledge of all policies worldwide.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> - green-sum
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: My last response before I contacted ebay
> 
> 
> 
> Dear green-sum,
> 
> Wait... It's not my fault you didn't complete the application. You are the seller, you have the shipping form, so you should inform your customer what information he needs to send to you for the safe shipping. Don't push this on me... I chose your most expensive product for this kind and still have this problem? not gonna happen
> 
> 
> 
> Conclusion: I called ebay, they said I'm in my rights and they'll give green-sum 2 options: send it free shipping again as the item is announced to be or return my full money since it was free shipping.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-2560x1440-IPS-Gaming-PC-Monitor-/111051274052?ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:US:1123


Wow man I applaud you for sticking to your guns.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> Well in my case he had to ship it to Brazil because thats where I live... But he forgot to put my CPF which is ID number in the box/invoice so they sended back to him. He is a good seller but screwed up on my purchase, but wants me to pay for his mistake. Well at leasted he wanted... good thing ebay is so fast and got the buyers back hahaha


Yep, he tried but you can not blame them for trying. Many buyers would have just accepted the error as their mistake, so the seller had to try. They lose out on many transactions, so its no skin off his back. However, if he refunds you out of anger or whatever, I would then order from someone else, lol. I wouldn't want Korean spit on my screen as it may add to the matte finish and blur the colors even more...


----------



## ontariotl

I agree to order from another seller (although not many sellers are carrying it at the moment) as green-sum will probably look for a monitor that just is under the max number of dead pixels before it can be returned just for you.


----------



## Cifali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yep, he tried but you can not blame them for trying. Many buyers would have just accepted the error as their mistake, so the seller had to try. They lose out on many transactions, so its no skin off his back. However, if he refunds you out of anger or whatever, I would then order from someone else, lol. I wouldn't want Korean spit on my screen as it may add to the matte finish and blur the colors even more...


Yep I don't blame him for trying, just didn't work on me and as I mentioned he is a good seller. He was just trying to save his hard worked money even though it was his mistake. Anyways that part about not buying from him again if I get a refund instead of a reship is a sure thing Hahaha and as it looks like bigcloth is not so worthy I'll just get a qnix... or even a normal 60hz 1440p "newegg" monitor as a last option.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> Yep I don't blame him for trying, just didn't work on me and as I mentioned he is a good seller. He was just trying to save his hard worked money even though it was his mistake. Anyways that part about not buying from him again if I get a refund instead of a reship is a sure thing Hahaha and as it looks like bigcloth is not so worthy I'll just get a qnix... or even a normal 60hz 1440p "newegg" monitor as a last option.


Oh? They don't have other Yamakasi 2B sellers?

EDIT: OK, yeah bigcloth and green sum are the only ones. There is a guy selling a brand new monitor somewhere around here, but he is in the UK. He bought the wrong monitor, but has found it has perfect pixels and no BLB. And he only wants $280 for it I think it was... He advertised it yesterday in these forums. Maybe he would be will to ship to you from the UK?


----------



## Cifali

I still have to wait for green-sum decision. I think he is going to chose to resend and than send me a really bad one or if he is not dumb he is gonna look for a 5 dead pixel one with BLB so I can't complain because he would be in the rights of his description.

Which I don't really care... hard to see dead pixels playing games, at least for me it is and I have 2 dead ones in a asus 1080p, so I imagine in a 1440p its harder to see them. I'll try to fix the BLB if that cenario really happens.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cifali*
> 
> I still have to wait for green-sum decision. I think he is going to chose to resend and than send me a really bad one or if he is not dumb he is gonna look for a 5 dead pixel one with BLB so I can't complain because he would be in the rights of his description.
> 
> Which I don't really care... hard to see dead pixels playing games, at least for me it is and I have 2 dead ones in a asus 1080p, so I imagine in a 1440p its harder to see them. I'll try to fix the BLB if that cenario really happens.


So is that seller to be avoided? I was looking at buying from them.


----------



## Cifali

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> So is that seller to be avoided? I was looking at buying from them.


No, he is a great seller. Best for 2b catleap. My case is something apart.


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Where can you order said cables


I have been researching ebay for the LDVS cables i saw that there are a couple of options to buy used mac cables i just need to know which are the correct ones and ill give them a try anyone got some insight on this ????


----------



## desiromeo

And he just raised the prices of the monitor by $10. What an *******...dunno if its cuz of the fiasco above or a lot of people have been buying them in the past few days...guess ill have to wait or go with Qnix.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Mmm, I'm getting scared of buying a catleap 2b extreme now that I've seen this issue being reported twice recently. I don't know if this is based on luck or these " Q270 *SE* 2B extreme" monitors can't push further than 96hz. Try to search for timings on 120hz.net or here and Let us know if you find something interesting. Good luck!


Wow, so this is pretty sneaky, man...
I wish I had seen this earlier, now I'm really disappointed, and I am not sure I can prove this....
this is the listing from ebay:

New YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz 2560x1440 IPS Gaming PC Monitor

and in this detailed specs:

CATLEAP Q270 LED SE 2B EXTREME EDITION
LG S-IPS Panel LED *Glossy panel

Now..here's the weird part. When i first bought it there was no "SE" in there, and also the part about *glossy panel was not there. I know this because I had to verify that they indeed sent a glossy panel, so it seems they added that part in later.
Don't know what to do about this really.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I have been researching ebay for the LDVS cables i saw that there are a couple of options to buy used mac cables i just need to know which are the correct ones and ill give them a try anyone got some insight on this ????


Man this would really make my day if we could figure this one out.
As far as picture quality my catleap is outstanding, in my opinion it blows matte qnix panels out of the water. IPS has deeper blacks and more vibrant colors, and the glossy panel makes fonts and pictures a bit sharper. So I mean, I love the thing, but struggling with 96hz is not good enough for me.

@}SkOrPn--' what would it take for you to delve into this cable making business?







surely there must be some dudes over at 120hz who have the specifications on these things.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah someone does for sure. I already have a source for the cheap Chinese versions such as what we already get with the monitors or the overclocked kits, but I want to push the quality to match the DVI cables we have.

I'm already in the business of making cables, that's what I've been doing for the past 20 or so years. These last few years its been custom usb cables for Kindle Fire devices.

If I can find a source for the connectors we need and really good wires individually shielded, plus the proper pins, I will look into it. Still not even sure this is a cable that can be built by hand, and not some machine. Lol the tcon board is certified by LG for 120hz so I have a feeling it is these lvds cables holding a lot of people back.


----------



## blued

Got mine a couple days ago from 2560x1440.com. Chose non-pixel perfect version due to concerns that pixel perfect may have other panel imperfections that prevent from making the A grade. No dead pixels or other panel aberrations that I can tell. Although ordered Q270 2b, got the SE version. But it does have the 2b PCB since it OC's to 96hz easy. Cant make it to 120hz but no big deal. Will not try for 100-115hz since I want it in 24hz multiples, so 96hz is fine for me.

Definitely sure mine is not tempered glass because I can apply slight pressure near bottom of screen with fingernail and it is pliable, not hard. Anyone buying a catleap might require a colorimeter for calibration. Mine had a slight green tint to it which I corrected with a with a Colormunki Display device. Looks good now and measures very well. Cant say which I prefer, the Qnix or the Catleap, both are good. Also have a Yamakasi DS 270 (ah-ips) which imo has better IQ than both the Qnix or Catleap, just that it has poorer blacks and other issues that prevent it from being a good all-rounder. Anyway, happy with the catleap just not sure yet if it will replace the Qnix as my main display or not.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Wow, so this is pretty sneaky, man...
> I wish I had seen this earlier, now I'm really disappointed, and I am not sure I can prove this....
> this is the listing from ebay:
> 
> New YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz 2560x1440 IPS Gaming PC Monitor
> 
> and in this detailed specs:
> 
> CATLEAP Q270 LED SE 2B EXTREME EDITION
> LG S-IPS Panel LED *Glossy panel
> 
> Now..here's the weird part. When i first bought it there was no "SE" in there, and also the part about *glossy panel was not there. I know this because I had to verify that they indeed sent a glossy panel, so it seems they added that part in later.
> Don't know what to do about this really.


That makes me mad. I'm very sorry for the limited OC you're getting. I've never seen or heard of a SE Catleap 2B.
Can you screenshot the timings you are using? I'm hoping using CRU we can find some tighter timings and get you some more refresh.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Got mine a couple days ago from 2560x1440.com. Chose non-pixel perfect version due to concerns that pixel perfect may have other panel imperfections that prevent from making the A grade. No dead pixels or other panel aberrations that I can tell. Although ordered Q270 2b, got the SE version. But it does have the 2b PCB since it OC's to 96hz easy. Cant make it to 120hz but no big deal. Will not try for 100-115hz since I want it in 24hz multiples, so 96hz is fine


Another SE... And yes the profiling does help quite a bit. Can rent a colorimeter for this for anyone interested.
Wanted to mention that for certain games I found 96/110 sort of refresh rates were causing problems with in game videos. Best example I know of is Tomb Raider. These videos are stuttery at any refresh rate that isn't a multiple of 30- so 90hz works great.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That makes me mad. I'm very sorry for the limited OC you're getting. I've never seen or heard of a SE Catleap 2B.
> Can you screenshot the timings you are using? I'm hoping using CRU we can find some tighter timings and get you some more refresh.


Yeah I've tried a few different ones using CRU as well..weird stuff. But I will post it and we can go from there.
I've read for hours on the 120hz.net forums, and a lot of people are very adamant that you should use a 24AWG dual link dvi cable.
Unfortunately, I have only seen these on monoprice and I can't get them over here.
I can always try a different cable, but I kind of have a feeling it won't matter.
I really don't wanna open the thing up either, since I'm not exactly a handyman.
Btw, do you know why I can't use any DDVI outputs in my top 780Ti card? And why the monitor doesn't switch on until windows is loaded?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Yeah I've tried a few different ones using CRU as well..weird stuff. But I will post it and we can go from there.
> I've read for hours on the 120hz.net forums, and a lot of people are very adamant that you should use a 24AWG dual link dvi cable.
> Unfortunately, I have only seen these on monoprice and I can't get them over here.
> I can always try a different cable, but I kind of have a feeling it won't matter.
> I really don't wanna open the thing up either, since I'm not exactly a handyman.
> Btw, do you know why I can't use any DDVI outputs in my top 780Ti card? And why the monitor doesn't switch on until windows is loaded?


I've personally tried a super thick DVI cable from monoprice and it was actually worse than the one I already had.
There are some really good cables (supposedly) available on Amazon for reasonable money. Cables do make a difference sometimes for sure. I had a Qnix for a little while that couldn't do more than 85Hz with the cable it came with. Same exact timings using a cable I bought from a local shop got me 105Hz.
I'll do a little poking around and see if I can find a cable I can recommend, but I hate leading people astray--like with this SE business grrrr
I've never opened any of these monitors up I have this mental block about it. I'm just not very handy.

Now the other stuff--The top cards' outputs... something funny there, I'll come back to it--I do know why you can't see your BIOS:
It's because you have the monitor connected to the bottom card and the BIOS is sending the signal to the top card.

Obvious thing is to switch the cards but I would want to know why the top outputs aren't functioning. Did you have another monitor connected to that card already via HDMI or something?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've personally tried a super thick DVI cable from monoprice and it was actually worse than the one I already had.
> There are some really good cables (supposedly) available on Amazon for reasonable money. Cables do make a difference sometimes for sure. I had a Qnix for a little while that couldn't do more than 85Hz with the cable it came with. Same exact timings using a cable I bought from a local shop got me 105Hz.
> I'll do a little poking around and see if I can find a cable I can recommend, but I hate leading people astray--like with this SE business grrrr
> I've never opened any of these monitors up I have this mental block about it. I'm just not very handy.
> 
> Now the other stuff--The top cards' outputs... something funny there, I'll come back to it--I do know why you can't see your BIOS:
> It's because you have the monitor connected to the bottom card and the BIOS is sending the signal to the top card.
> 
> Obvious thing is to switch the cards but I would want to know why the top outputs aren't functioning. Did you have another monitor connected to that card already via HDMI or something?


yeah my previous QNIX was running from the top card, Dual DVI ofcourse, not HDMI.
So maybe that's why there's a problem. Should I just clean everything and reinstall the drivers and switching to the top card perhaps?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> yeah my previous QNIX was running from the top card, Dual DVI ofcourse, not HDMI.
> So maybe that's why there's a problem. Should I just clean everything and reinstall the drivers and switching to the top card perhaps?


Oh excellent, OK you shouldn't even need to switch the cards. I wouldn't want to. It's a driver thing, I'm sure of it.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Oh excellent, OK you shouldn't even need to switch the cards. I wouldn't want to. It's a driver thing, I'm sure of it.


haha thank god, I wouldn't change if I could, they're watercooled







What a hassle that would be


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I've personally tried a super thick DVI cable from monoprice and it was actually worse than the one I already had.
> There are some really good cables (supposedly) available on Amazon for reasonable money. Cables do make a difference sometimes for sure. I had a Qnix for a little while that couldn't do more than 85Hz with the cable it came with. Same exact timings using a cable I bought from a local shop got me 105Hz.
> I'll do a little poking around and see if I can find a cable I can recommend, but I hate leading people astray--like with this SE business grrrr
> I've never opened any of these monitors up I have this mental block about it. I'm just not very handy.
> 
> Now the other stuff--The top cards' outputs... something funny there, I'll come back to it--I do know why you can't see your BIOS:
> It's because you have the monitor connected to the bottom card and the BIOS is sending the signal to the top card.
> 
> Obvious thing is to switch the cards but I would want to know why the top outputs aren't functioning. Did you have another monitor connected to that card already via HDMI or something?


I just purchased the Monoprice 24AWG cable (10' version) and it works fine for me, actually it helped me reach 120Hz with some mild timing adjustments which I couldn't reach before with a store bought 28AWG from Tigerdirect. So not all cables are bad.

And as for the "SE" business, I mentioned a few pages back that mine was labelled as an SE as well since it was in the Serial number (proof below) and had a sticker on the box that it was the "2B overclock" version. The "SE" moniker has nothing to do with overclock quality. They called it the SE as the second edition or special edition (or whatever abbreviation it means with the Korean manufactures or ebayers just renaming it whatever they want) since it usually only came with the "2C" board at first, then they slipped in the "2B" boards by retrofitting them. More than likely because they "2C"s were not selling as well or couldn't sell at a higher price. It is the same S-IPS panel, same tcon board, etc as the original overclocked Catleap discussed here. The SE name has been around since 2012 and it's nothing new.

*EDIT*
I have read that the SE could mean 'Lite" version that doesn't include speakers (yet mine were there, just not connected) or tempered glass in front of the panel, only DVI-D input and no OSD.

http://s81.photobucket.com/user/OntarioTL/media/20141015_071225_zpsb7fe67c7.jpg.html
http://s81.photobucket.com/user/OntarioTL/media/20141015_071248_zpsreqqah9h.jpg.html

As }SkOrPn--' has mentioned, it could be the internal cables that maybe holding the overclocks back for some. As it's been mentioned before, there is no guarantee to hit the 120Hz mark. So if you can only reach 96Hz, you shouldn't be disappointed or if you can manage more without the golden 120Hz mark, be happy it's better than 60Hz. Look at the overlord site and read the reviews, even that setup most people don't reach 120Hz all the time. It's the luck of the draw. LG did design the "2B" board to handle 120Hz but was never certified that all panels, all parts installed would handle such bandwidth. My thoughts about the 2B board was LG was planning on introducing a 3D IPS monitor during the push of the great 3D fad. 3D fad was done, LG never bothered to pursue it anymore and completely abandoned the idea with many boards being built already. The aftermarket then slapped these boards in with the LG panels and sold them as overclocked (and only when discovered it can be overclocked) with some inferior parts included.

As with overclocking any type of electronic component that is not certified to run at that clockspeed, there will be different results, not always in your favor just like CPU's.

Oh and one thing I forgot to mention, even drivers do have issues with overclocking, at least with AMD. I tried a beta set and it didn't clock too well at 115Hz -120Hz for some reason. I install a different driver and it works fine. Something to keep in mind as well.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Yeah I've tried a few different ones using CRU as well..weird stuff. But I will post it and we can go from there.
> I've read for hours on the 120hz.net forums, and a lot of people are very adamant that you should use a 24AWG dual link dvi cable.
> Unfortunately, I have only seen these on monoprice and I can't get them over here.
> I can always try a different cable, but I kind of have a feeling it won't matter.
> I really don't wanna open the thing up either, since I'm not exactly a handyman.
> Btw, do you know why I can't use any DDVI outputs in my top 780Ti card? And why the monitor doesn't switch on until windows is loaded?


As for the bios display, I agree the DVI cable must be connected to the very top card or you will have to wait until windows loads with the secondary card. The same happens with my AMD cards. During post, it checks to see what is installed on the PCI-E bus and it usually starts with Bus #1 on the top, and if it finds a video device on the top it will display there even without a cable. For windows O/S and the actual video driver, it wont matter which device you connect to. Usually in bios, there is the option to display first from PCI, PCI-E, or intergrated, and sometime a rare option of which bus # to use. Best way to force drivers to behave is to remove the secondary card, load the PC up with the primary card so it can reconfigure, then power down and install the secondary card and power up and see if that does the trick. Now if BIOS still doesn't display on the main card, pull both cards out, then put the first card back in to kinda kick BIOS in the ass to recognize once again to check bus #1 (or 2) with video display and there is a monitor connected. Then follow with re installing the secondary card.

*EDIT*
Oops, I just read the other post just like me you are watercooling the cards and used a Qnix monitor with the primary card. This is what I get when I'm over tired while typing this reply. Just try the driver trick with uninstalling and connecting to the primary card, and reinstalling the drivers. If that doesn't work, with the primary card connected to the monitor, clear your CMOS for bios to reconfigure.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> And he just raised the prices of the monitor by $10. What an *******...dunno if its cuz of the fiasco above or a lot of people have been buying them in the past few days...guess ill have to wait or go with Qnix.


It's the supply and demand that changes the price. I paid a little more, then it dropped in price, but now looks like it has started to go up again. I think it's because other sellers like the one I bought from have sold out, now green-sum and bigcloth are the only ones with it in stock.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Another SE... And yes the profiling does help quite a bit. Can rent a colorimeter for this for anyone interested.
> Wanted to mention that for certain games I found 96/110 sort of refresh rates were causing problems with in game videos. Best example I know of is Tomb Raider. These videos are stuttery at any refresh rate that isn't a multiple of 30- so 90hz works great.


I used the profile at the first page of this thread and it got rid of the green hue that comes with the default colors. It's probably the best calibration I've seen for this panel.

http://api.viglink.com/api/click?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_14138895476507&key=7777bc3c17029328d03146e0ed767841&libId=9f0333dd-48f7-43a8-b447-75007793c07f&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.overclock.net%2Ft%2F1225919%2Fyamakasi-catleap-monitor-club&v=1&out=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.monitortests.com%2Fyamakasi-catleap-q270-led%2Fcatleap-d65.icm&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.ca%2F&title=Yamakasi%20Catleap%20Monitor%20Club&txt=catleap-d65.icm


----------



## latprod

@ontariotl Thanks a lot for all the info, it certainly makes me feel better about my monitor. It just means I wasn't among the luckiest in this particular draw, and that's the breaks sometimes.
However, I will try a few different cables just to check, and also do a reinstall so I can use my top card for DVI cable. Both cards are watercooled in a parallell setup so removing the cards is not an option, though I can pull out the power for it, but I don't know if that will achieve what you were aiming for.
The weird thing about this is if I connect the DVI cable to my top card it will display nothing at all. At first it displayed a ridiculously garbled image.. I guess I gotta just try to reinstall everything.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> @ontariotl Thanks a lot for all the info, it certainly makes me feel better about my monitor. It just means I wasn't among the luckiest in this particular draw, and that's the breaks sometimes.
> However, I will try a few different cables just to check, and also do a reinstall so I can use my top card for DVI cable. Both cards are watercooled in a parallell setup so removing the cards is not an option, though I can pull out the power for it, but I don't know if that will achieve what you were aiming for.
> The weird thing about this is if I connect the DVI cable to my top card it will display nothing at all. At first it displayed a ridiculously garbled image.. I guess I gotta just try to reinstall everything.


Yeah I edited my last response not realizing you were water cooling your cards like me. I had a couple of other suggestions added in that you might have missed.

As for garbled image, since this monitor is a pass through only and no scaler built in, the initial video bios is a low level type display signal for POST(no driver needed) it could cause an image distortion at first. Mine does it on occasion. Once you tap into Bios settings, it goes away.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Yeah I edited my last response not realizing you were water cooling your cards like me. I had a couple of other suggestions added in that you might have missed.
> 
> As for garbled image, since this monitor is a pass through only and no scaler built in, the initial video bios is a low level type display signal for POST(no driver needed) it could cause an image distortion at first. Mine does it on occasion. Once you tap into Bios settings, it goes away.


yeah man thanks, I re-read your post now and I'll try that


----------



## latprod

So, update time. Thanks to your help I've gotten the top card to work now. I just unplugged the lower one, booted with the other one connected, and reconnected. Voila!
I did a clean driver install and I'm trying to OC again. With tightened timings and the OEM DVI cable I can get 120hz without the green scan lines, but I still get red artifacts. Actually, anything above 100hz gives me red artifacts, but I'm rid of the hot darn green lines, which is a blessing. I can live with 100hz, so long as it's stable








I tried some ultra tight timings I found on 120hz.net, but nothing seesm to get me stable above 100hz.
Anything else? Should i try to tighten even more wit h CRU? Somebody talkedb about opening up the thing and reconnecting the wires... Is that even worth it?


----------



## latprod

So.... Green lines are back after switching monitor on and off.arggh. But i thought of something. Do they use lsdv cables in the qnix too? Cuz i got an old one with a broken screen


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> So.... Green lines are back after switching monitor on and off.arggh. But i thought of something. Do they use lsdv cables in the qnix too? Cuz i got an old one with a broken screen


Glad you got one problem solved, but have to work on another.

Unless the Qnix uses the S-IPS panel from LG, you might not be able to use the cables. Qnix uses the Samsung PLS panel doesn't it or am I getting mixed up?

You could explore that issue like you mentioned by checking the internal wire of the catleap itself. I know I had to reseat the cables as mine was acting funny even at default refresh rate. Just be careful not to tug on the wires too hard...and no you wont go blind because of it either


----------



## Ben Sisko

Is there a way to be sure that a Catleap 2B was delivered? ontariotl posted a picture with a serial number like Q270SE4... and mine is like that.

I ordered my Yamakasi last week from green-sum and it was delivered with two stuck pixel in the absolute middle of the screen. On bright green pixel and a red one which is only visible on black background when you know where to look. But because of these two pixels i demanded an exchange with positive feedback from green-sum.

Besides the annoyance with these stuck pixels i wasn't able to raise the hz to a level some others here have reached. I tried 96, 100, 110, 112, 115, 120hz but there are always some complications. Because of these fails and thaht i read somewhere here that the real 2B Versions have a 2B in the serial numberr i'm quite unsure if it is the 'real deal'.

Hopefully someone can clear that up for me how to properly check if it is a 2B monitor.
Thanks


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> Is there a way to be sure that a Catleap 2B was delivered? ontariotl posted a picture with a serial number like Q270SE4... and mine is like that.
> 
> I ordered my Yamakasi last week from green-sum and it was delivered with two stuck pixel in the absolute middle of the screen. On bright green pixel and a red one which is only visible on black background when you know where to look. But because of these two pixels i demanded an exchange with positive feedback from green-sum.
> 
> Besides the annoyance with these stuck pixels i wasn't able to raise the hz to a level some others here have reached. I tried 96, 100, 110, 112, 115, 120hz but there are always some complications. Because of these fails and thaht i read somewhere here that the real 2B Versions have a 2B in the serial numberr i'm quite unsure if it is the 'real deal'.
> 
> Hopefully someone can clear that up for me how to properly check if it is a 2B monitor.
> Thanks


Mine was also a SE in the serial number and in the box also also ordered from greensum last week


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> Is there a way to be sure that a Catleap 2B was delivered? ontariotl posted a picture with a serial number like Q270SE4... and mine is like that.
> 
> I ordered my Yamakasi last week from green-sum and it was delivered with two stuck pixel in the absolute middle of the screen. On bright green pixel and a red one which is only visible on black background when you know where to look. But because of these two pixels i demanded an exchange with positive feedback from green-sum.
> 
> Besides the annoyance with these stuck pixels i wasn't able to raise the hz to a level some others here have reached. I tried 96, 100, 110, 112, 115, 120hz but there are always some complications. Because of these fails and thaht i read somewhere here that the real 2B Versions have a 2B in the serial numberr i'm quite unsure if it is the 'real deal'.
> 
> Hopefully someone can clear that up for me how to properly check if it is a 2B monitor.
> Thanks


When I was comparing the differences between the 2C and 2B boards, I noticed that the 2B board has an audio jack input next fo the DVI input. The 2C apparently does not, just a DVI and power socket. That might help you to confirm its a proper 2B installed without disassembly.


----------



## Ben Sisko

@shremi: Does it goe like Q270SE2B... or Q270SE4....

@qontariotl: Than it seems more likely to be a real 2B. An audio jack is present.

Think i need to try different cables too once the replacement is here. Still no luck with overlocking.
I ordered a Qnix QX270 from another seller and it has no problem to switch from 60hz to 120hz.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> @shremi: Does it goe like Q270SE2B... or Q270SE4....
> 
> @qontariotl: Than it seems more likely to be a real 2B. An audio jack is present.
> 
> Think i need to try different cables too once the replacement is here. Still no luck with overlocking.
> I ordered a Qnix QX270 from another seller and it has no problem to switch from 60hz to 120hz.


It could have the same problem I had when I recieved mine. Overclocking was jumping through hoops and even then still wasn't working right. Even at default refresh I noticed some anomylies. I took the bezel apart and reseated the two main cables to the LCD panel and the problem was solved.

I think with transport being as fast as it is, will cause the monitor to be bumped around enough to shake cables loose inside. The only adhesive I saw inside was holding the power cable for the LEDs, nothing for the main cables to the panel.


----------



## Ben Sisko

I keep that in mind, thanks. Wanted to remove the stand anyway


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> So.... Green lines are back after switching monitor on and off.arggh. But i thought of something. Do they use lsdv cables in the qnix too? Cuz i got an old one with a broken screen


It may be a different connector. I think Qnix only has one cable and the Yamakasi has two going to the panel. I'm still trying to understand LVDS myself.


----------



## electro2u

I read a post about LVDS last night that stated out of 5 macs they all had different connectors...


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> LVDS cables are hard to get, and there are many different connectors. I have not put in enough research and hunting to find them as of yet, but I have found them.
> 
> What I would like to do is make my own. All I need to do is figure out how the pins are removed and replace them with new ones with better copper wire and shielding. But many guys at many of these website such as 120hz etc, have said that it is rare to get an actual bad DVI cable, and much more common for the LVDS cable to be causing the overclocking limit. They have seen where a monitor would not overclock worth crap, and then they replaced the LVDS cables and bam 120hz immediately. These Korean monitors use the absolute cheapest possible LVDS cables.
> 
> That is all I know. If you find out any further info on materials to make these in much higher quality let me know and I will start building them for all the members here


Opened panel up today reseated the cabled. I used a small screwdriver and lightly pushed in each pin one by one. I could feel a light click on each one because the pins are loose. I thought that was going to do the trick since they where so loose. But nope nothing changed still red dots at above 100hz
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *desiromeo*
> 
> Hi thank you for the quick response...When you say much better colors on the catleap bcuz of the glossy display..what exactly is much better?? Looking at both monitor the catleap looks a little better aesthetically. Any difference in build quality? I do have windows but dont think they would much of an issue to pick matte over glossy. Were you able to hit 114hz without messing with the timings or w.e?
> 
> Is the stand any better on the catleap? Also is there any difference between the IPS catleap vs the PLS Qnix?


I just took mine apart QNIX seemed like it had a more solid vesa mount and catleap had better stand. Blacks are blacker than QNIX. But mainly QNIX colors distort at higher hz thats the main reason at 60hz they are both really good. Catleap is great color out of box though. Color profiles don't really help much at all with Catleap its almost perfect out of box.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I have been researching ebay for the LDVS cables i saw that there are a couple of options to buy used mac cables i just need to know which are the correct ones and ill give them a try anyone got some insight on this ????


Let us know if you find anything

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> I have read that the SE could mean 'Lite" version that doesn't include speakers (yet mine were there, just not connected) or tempered glass in front of the panel, only DVI-D input and no OSD.


My speaker wasn't connected either. I left it disconnected.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I would remove the speakers entirely, just to get rid of any possible magnetic-field pollution near the DVI electronics.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I would remove the speakers entirely, just to get rid of any possible magnetic-field pollution near the DVI electronics.


I guess I could open mine up then, go over the cabling and remove the speakers etcetera. But how hard is this to do?
I've never opened a monitor before, so I'm unsure of how finicky it is to re-assemble, whether things have to be "just right" or I can't close the damn thing or something like that.
If I ruin it I'm totally screwed, since I really don't have the cash to just get another one.
Since people seem to struggle with the "SE" models, eventhough this supposedly is a 2b board, they must have done something to it that is cheaper in some way. Like people said, I reached 120hz on my qnix with tight timings and 110 with automatic, no problem at all.
It just frustrates me especially when the catleap cost more. Though the picture is clearly better and there is no BLB at all....


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I guess I could open mine up then, go over the cabling and remove the speakers etcetera. But how hard is this to do?
> I've never opened a monitor before, so I'm unsure of how finicky it is to re-assemble, whether things have to be "just right" or I can't close the damn thing or something like that.
> If I ruin it I'm totally screwed, since I really don't have the cash to just get another one.
> Since people seem to struggle with the "SE" models, eventhough this supposedly is a 2b board, they must have done something to it that is cheaper in some way. Like people said, I reached 120hz on my qnix with tight timings and 110 with automatic, no problem at all.
> It just frustrates me especially when the catleap cost more. Though the picture is clearly better and there is no BLB at all....


Oh, if your not comfortable in doing that, then I wouldn't risk it. But your a member here at OCN, so dont you regularly mod stuff, and build things etc, and thus very handy with things like this? I also have never opened a monitor, but looking at videos it looks like something I could do with a blind fold.

Lol, if a 12 year old girl can take apart a computer and put it back together while blindfolded 



, than I am sure I can take apart and put back together a monitor.

Oh and I'm just teasing you, please do not do something you are not comfortable with. That is a surefire way to kill something. Maybe watch every video you can find, and take apart instructions over at ifixit.com before attemtping anything like that. Its surely not a screwless design like the HP Z1...


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Oh, if your not comfortable in doing that, then I wouldn't risk it. But your a member here at OCN, so dont you regularly mod stuff, and build things etc, and thus very handy with things like this? I also have never opened a monitor, but looking at videos it looks like something I could do with a blind fold.
> 
> Lol, if a 12 year old girl can take apart a computer and put it back together while blindfolded
> 
> 
> 
> , than I am sure I can take apart and put back together a monitor.
> 
> Oh and I'm just teasing you, please do not do something you are not comfortable with. That is a surefire way to kill something. Maybe watch every video you can find, and take apart instructions over at ifixit.com before attemtping anything like that. Its surely not a screwless design like the HP Z1...


Haha, sure I'm pretty handy with building computers and software in general, but not very handy when it comes to fine electronics, I wouldn't be able to solder anything, f.ex, because I have no idea what I'm doing. But I did take apart and fix an xbox360 once, so I guess I can give it a shot


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Haha, sure I'm pretty handy with building computers and software in general, but not very handy when it comes to fine electronics, I wouldn't be able to solder anything, f.ex, because I have no idea what I'm doing. But I did take apart and fix an xbox360 once, so I guess I can give it a shot


I dont think you would be working with electronics, only plastics, and crap worthless speakers. The case is just screws and snapping apart and back together, but no electronics work involved as far as I can tell. The hard part I think would be getting the monitors plastic case to snap apart, but getting it to snap back together should be much easier.

But how the heck would I know, I only saw videos of it done, lmao...


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> Opened panel up today reseated the cabled. I used a small screwdriver and lightly pushed in each pin one by one. I could feel a light click on each one because the pins are loose. I thought that was going to do the trick since they where so loose. But nope nothing changed still red dots at above 100hz
> I just took mine apart QNIX seemed like it had a more solid vesa mount and catleap had better stand. Blacks are blacker than QNIX. But mainly QNIX colors distort at higher hz thats the main reason at 60hz they are both really good. Catleap is great color out of box though. Color profiles don't really help much at all with Catleap its almost perfect out of box.
> Let us know if you find anything
> My speaker wasn't connected either. I left it disconnected.


Hey, when you opened it up, did you just open it slighty and push on it without disconnecting the cables and put it back together or did you disassemble all of it?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I dont think you would be working with electronics, only plastics, and crap worthless speakers. The case is just screws and snapping apart and back together, but no electronics work involved as far as I can tell. The hard part I think would be getting the monitors plastic case to snap apart, but getting it to snap back together should be much easier.
> 
> But how the heck would I know, I only saw videos of it done, lmao...


Hehe yeah, I guess. I'm more concerned about getting the panel itself to sit exactly where it should and connect the cables properly again without breaking them. Apparently on the Qnix, it's really easy to break off plastic parts on the connectors unless you're super careful and know which way to push or bend or whatever. So we'll see. I'm never satisfied until I've tried everything so I have to do it sooner or later


----------



## electro2u

Still really curious about your timings latprod. The timings on the qnixs i had were very different from my Yamakasi.

These are my timings on my Catleap


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Still really curious about your timings latprod. The timings on the qnixs i had were very different from my Yamakasi.
> 
> These are my timings on my Catleap


Thanks man, I'll try! Yesterday I tried some "ultra tight timings" that I found on 120hz.net, only for the Nvidia control panel tho, not using cru and patches.
Does CRU allow you more control to tighten things up? Just using catleap driver and NVCP at the moment. What do you recommend?
Timings are:

Front Porc: 0 - 1
Sync width: 1 - 1
Total pixels: 2705 - 1445
Refresh rate: 173.40
Pixel clock: 469.0470

Tried these timings on 120, then 110.
It is much better than before, where 120 would give me an almost unreadable screen, and now it's just all that red artifacting and a few lines.
even getting the occasional line on 96, so I'm not getting why my results are this poor.


----------



## electro2u

Have you tried increasing your voltage to your GPU?

I like CRU because it allows you to see the decimal points in the exact refresh rate you end up with.

Edit: Yours are exactly correct 120.000Hz. There must be something different between our monitors...

I don't use the catleap driver at all. I don't think it makes any difference, though.

Maybe the cable but seems like other people with the red dots (which I'm not familiar with) are stumped as well.

What about your Windows install mode and Compatibilty Support Module?
Recently I noticed that my AMD card definitely acts differently with CSM enabled in BIOS. I have Win 8 installed in UEFI mode but unless I enable CSM I cannot adjust my GPU voltage in MSI afterburner.

Can anyone take a photograph of the red dots?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Have you tried increasing your voltage to your GPU?
> 
> I like CRU because it allows you to see the decimal points in the exact refresh rate you end up with.
> 
> Edit: Yours are exactly correct 120.000Hz. There must be something different between our monitors...
> 
> I don't use the catleap driver at all. I don't think it makes any difference, though.
> 
> Maybe the cable but seems like other people with the red dots (which I'm not familiar with) are stumped as well.
> 
> What about your Windows install mode and Compatibilty Support Module?
> Recently I noticed that my AMD card definitely acts differently with CSM enabled in BIOS. I have Win 8 installed in UEFI mode but unless I enable CSM I cannot adjust my GPU voltage in MSI afterburner.
> 
> Can anyone take a photograph of the red dots?


I'll get you the picture later today, at work now, it's like 10:30 here in Norway. I actually just uninstalled Precision X as some people complained about overvolting causing some issues, but this was a while ago on the qnix thread. I can try and overvolt later and overclock my GPU's and see if that helps ( 780Ti SLI) I can try CRU too and your timings, couldn't hurt. I don't know anything about the CSM, what is that good for exactly? can you enlighten me? :d


----------



## electro2u

Compatibility support module is for running non-UEFI components in UEFI mode as far as I know. Some brand new hardware is coming with hybrid-bios that works either way


----------



## ontariotl

You guys have tried different timings and had some good some bad results. Have you ever thought about rolling back your video card driver to something earlier and see if you get different results.

I have mentoned it before a newer beta driver from amd did not work with my timings that I have now.

Look at every possibility before giving up. Even cables make a difference. Two identical cables could have 2 different results. I thought I had a quality dvi cable which gave me headaches so I went to tiger direct and bought another
10' 28awg dvi cable has had better results. Then I ordered a monoprice 24awg dvi cable and it works even better.
What I'm getting at is its not always going to be plug and play.
And getting to 100hz is nothing to sneeze at when its not certified to run at that refresh let alone 120hz.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> You guys have tried different timings and had some good some bad results. Have you ever thought about rolling back your video card driver to something earlier and see if you get different results.
> 
> I have mentoned it before a newer beta driver from amd did not work with my timings that I have now.
> 
> Look at every possibility before giving up. Even cables make a difference. Two identical cables could have 2 different results. I thought I had a quality dvi cable which gave me headaches so I went to tiger direct and bought another
> 10' 28awg dvi cable has had better results. Then I ordered a monoprice 24awg dvi cable and it works even better.
> What I'm getting at is its not always going to be plug and play.
> And getting to 100hz is nothing to sneeze at when its not certified to run at that refresh let alone 120hz.


Yeah I totally agree with you, I have tried a lot of things, but not a driver rollback. I'll give that a go. 24AWG doesn't exist in norway, so no go there. And, finally, I would be very happy at 100hz, or even 96hz, but still getting scan lines. Which is absolutely not cool, especially considering my qnix went right to 110 without automatic timings. I'm here on OC.net, I'm not looking for plug and play








The frustrating thing is that my OC is extremely limited, I would not be looking for advice and questioning my setup if i had a stable 100hz. Most people seem to have no problems achieving 100, so I have to try and figure out why I can't.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

It's either the panel, the tcon board, the LVDS cables, or even the DVI board. Yeah you got a good qnix but a not so good yamakasi.

Oh and to the member who said this isn't certified for 120hz. Actually yes the TCON board, which is responsible for the timings is certified and designed by LG for 120hz. It is everything else in the setup not up to par. Mainly the LVDS cables and the panel itself...


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> It's either the panel, the tcon board, the LVDS cables, or even the DVI board. Yeah you got a good qnix but a not so good yamakasi.
> 
> Oh and to the member who said this isn't certified for 120hz. Actually yes the TCON board, which is responsible for the timings is certified and designed by LG for 120hz. It is everything else in the setup not up to par. Mainly the LVDS cables and the panel itself...


You must have forgotten what I said a few posts back before I said it again. Yes I realise the TCON board is certified to run up to 120Hz, but none of the other parts are. Whether the TCON board can reach 120Hz is a moot point with the Korean builds as its not manufactured certified for 120Hz. It's just a possibility.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> It's just a possibility.


Which is my point exactly, its a possibility "as-is". Replace the part not getting you there and you will probably be hitting 120hz easily. Finding that part is the not so easy task, lol... I should have my overclocking kit here soon, and will try and build my own LVDS cable, so lets see how my panel does...


----------



## rtorbs

Hi All

Sorry to sort of just barge in (just dropped a post in newbies section) but been following this thread for a couple of weeks prior to getting '2B' from Green Sum last Friday.....Ive had the aft off so decided to have a play about following the Nvidia guide but I cant seem to squeeze any more than 70hz out of it







but since ive no experience I was wondering how much of a diff fine tuning etc makes ?

Im running a single EVGA 980 GTX if that helps? and my Monitor is a 4F2L, I also notice the box doesn't actually mention its the OC version like I believe the early ones did ?

Cheers


----------



## Zahix

It seems the Catleap price went up







I guess I will be going with the Qnix after all.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

If anyone here lives in the NY area, you can get this Catleap, no dead pixels, no BLB for less than $200 maybe. Its a "Make Offer" and "Pick Up Only" listing.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-IPS-27-2560-x-1440-Monitor-/321556086267?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item4ade3c7dfb


----------



## Ben Sisko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rtorbs*
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Sorry to sort of just barge in (just dropped a post in newbies section) but been following this thread for a couple of weeks prior to getting '2B' from Green Sum last Friday.....Ive had the aft off so decided to have a play about following the Nvidia guide but I cant seem to squeeze any more than 70hz out of it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but since ive no experience I was wondering how much of a diff fine tuning etc makes ?
> 
> Im running a single EVGA 980 GTX if that helps? and my Monitor is a 4F2L, I also notice the box doesn't actually mention its the OC version like I believe the early ones did ?
> 
> Cheers


Same here. 4F2L and currently no luck with overlocking :-(


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Which is my point exactly, its a possibility "as-is". Replace the part not getting you there and you will probably be hitting 120hz easily. Finding that part is the not so easy task, lol... I should have my overclocking kit here soon, and will try and build my own LVDS cable, so lets see how my panel does...


It was the point I was trying to make to new owners that they shouldn't be disappointed if they don't reach 120Hz, but still managed greater than 60Hz. They shouldn't be disappointed as more than 60Hz is better than nothing and the Korean monitors are not certified at 120Hz (just a possibility). Some new owners felt like they were ripped off by it not reaching the golden 120Hz, and it got tiring to read.

Just hope your home built LVDS cable works out and that is the achiles heal to reach the golden 120Hz. It would be interesting to get others to reach 120Hz with your cables if you decide to help out others.

As for the Ebay monitor, that is a steal. Just get that and order the TCON board package and overclock it and it would be still cheaper than the actual monitors sold on Ebay at the moment.

Zahix mentioned the price went up on the catleaps....I need to check this out.

EDIT- Oh wow, did they ever go up in price again. Too much interest I'm guessing, time for profit!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> It was the point I was trying to make to new owners that they shouldn't be disappointed if they don't reach 120Hz, but still managed greater than 60Hz. They shouldn't be disappointed as more than 60Hz is better than nothing and the Korean monitors are not certified at 120Hz (just a possibility). Some new owners felt like they were ripped off by it not reaching the golden 120Hz, and it got tiring to read.
> 
> Just hope your home built LVDS cable works out and that is the achiles heal to reach the golden 120Hz. It would be interesting to get others to reach 120Hz with your cables if you decide to help out others.
> 
> As for the Ebay monitor, that is a steal. Just get that and order the TCON board package and overclock it and it would be still cheaper than the actual monitors sold on Ebay at the moment.
> 
> Zahix mentioned the price went up on the catleaps....I need to check this out.
> 
> EDIT- Oh wow, did they ever go up in price again. Too much interest I'm guessing, time for profit!


Yeah, I would love to see for myself. Both 120hz.net and Joshua at emaxeon say it is the LVDS cable that is the true limit, as we connect decent DVI cables only to have some of the worlds thinnest crapiest wires being used on the LVDS cable (some of these cables have fallen apart just by simply touching them), which is responsible for carrying the signal to the TCON board. It just doesn't make sense to me to have such a weak link in the path to the actual panel.

By the way, a Chinese manufacturer offered to make these for me for 5 cents each (in bulk of course). Really? not even 5 cents worth of copper is inside these cables? lol, I don't care how you look at it I can not believe a 5 cent cable can possibly be of quality. I have not replied to their offer...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> By the way, a Chinese manufacturer offered to make these for me for 5 cents each (in bulk of course). Really? not even 5 cents worth of copper is inside these cables? lol, I don't care how you look at it I can not believe a 5 cent cable can possibly be of quality. I have not replied to their offer...


Ask them for a sample

PRICE RAISE SPECULATION:
Find it very suspicious that bigclothcraft and lovelypeople no longer have these posted at all, and GreenSum suddenly raises price to ~600$
That was around the price when I got mine...
It is my understanding that a lot of these sellers are actually all part of a group, not individual people.
Perhaps the new price represents higher quality materials?Seems absurd, but it is possible, I suppose.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ask them for a sample
> 
> PRICE RAISE SPECULATION:
> Find it very suspicious that bigclothcraft and lovelypeople no longer have these posted at all, and GreenSum suddenly raises price to ~600$
> That was around the price when I got mine...
> It is my understanding that a lot of these sellers are actually all part of a group, not individual people.
> Perhaps the new price represents higher quality materials?Seems absurd, but it is possible, I suppose.


Nope, same product, same parts installed. Nothing is upgraded. Just supply and demand as usual. When I bought mine, there were at least 4 other ebay sellers. Even though they still had stock, they mysteriously ended the sale. I wouldn't doubt it is all one ebayer with multiple IDs. So someone was sitting on stock as they were priced too high, so they sell on different ebay accounts to gain interest with different price points to see what buyers will pay. Sales rise, then they pull the cheaper ones to sell at a higher price for profit.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Ask them for a sample
> 
> PRICE RAISE SPECULATION:
> Find it very suspicious that bigclothcraft and lovelypeople no longer have these posted at all, and GreenSum suddenly raises price to ~600$
> That was around the price when I got mine...
> It is my understanding that a lot of these sellers are actually all part of a group, not individual people.
> Perhaps the new price represents higher quality materials?Seems absurd, but it is possible, I suppose.


A couple years ago they went as high as $1400 after stocks depleted. You can still get them elsewhere at reasonable prices: http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=127


----------



## latprod

Ok, so
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> It seems the Catleap price went up
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I guess I will be going with the Qnix after all.


yeah go for it. My catleap looks better in every way, but unlike the "120 hz oc EXTREME!" moniker it overclocks like *CENSORED!!!!!* . So thanks, green-sum, and korean sellers in general, for trying to *CENSORED!!!!* us over as much as possible. Not even 96hz is stable. 2b my ass.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Nope, same product, same parts installed. Nothing is upgraded.


Seems most likely that this is correct. However, how do you know? You sound like you've toured the factory!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> A couple years ago they went as high as $1400 after stocks depleted. You can still get them elsewhere at reasonable prices: http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=127


Again, this is a strange listing, "2B Overclock" normally it would say "2B OC".


----------



## aomas

I think the sellers list them as "2B OverClock" because some of the overcloking monitors have stickers that say "2B OverClock", mine was sold with that title but was missing the sticker and was actually a 2C model, which even seller agreed.

btw. he told me he is gonna send me the boards tomorrow, and even offered me a second monitor for nice price, really nice i might buy second monitor because thats cheap as it gets!


----------



## Ben Sisko

From which seller did you order your monitor?


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Seems most likely that this is correct. However, how do you know? You sound like you've toured the factory!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Again, this is a strange listing, "2B Overclock" normally it would say "2B OC".


If you check the history of this thread and on other forums, whether you pay $300 to $1000 the results are the same. Either you can reach the 120Hz mark or have to run slightly less of a refresh rate. The only time I could agree what you stated is if on their sale they state the monitor is certified and garuanteed to run at 120Hz. None of them do, they always say it is possible, but due to drivers and video cards, results will vary.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> If you check the history of this thread and on other forums, whether you pay $300 to $1000 the results are the same. Either you can reach the 120Hz mark or have to run slightly less of a refresh rate. The only time I could agree what you stated is if on their sale they state the monitor is certified and garuanteed to run at 120Hz. None of them do, they always say it is possible, but due to drivers and video cards, results will vary.


Nah man. Catleaps used to go to 135hz. This has been going on for years and they have been changed without notice multiple times.


----------



## timcee

Hi I'm just about to buy one of these I think!

I just want to know a few things. I've owned a Crossover 2720MDP GOLD for a couple of years so I know how good these screens are. I want to start gaming using my PC so it's time for an upgrade! I just want to double check if my 2GB GTX 660 Ti is up to doing 120hz? And is ebay the best place to buy one if I'm in the UK still? I got my crossover from accessorieswhole on ebay.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-1440p-PC-Monitor-/140922305094

I am starting to use my PC for gaming instead of buying a nextgen console so I would upgrade my card if I needed to.

Thanks for any help


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Nah man. Catleaps used to go to 135hz. This has been going on for years and they have been changed without notice multiple times.


Well you go ahead and pay the extra that they are asking and prove me wrong that I doubt they are upgraded then







. I don't know what forums (besides this one) you are reading but when I did my research, I've only read one person who had been able to get 135Hz, and that was with SLi at the time. Not all Catleaps were at 135Hz, 120Hz was and is still obtainable, still just luck of the draw.

It is possible when the Catleaps came out 2 years ago, the product had more quality to them, but since have cheaped out on parts that connect to the panel to save money and well....to make more money.


----------



## Ben Sisko

I've got an 660TI also. Right now personally would tend to a Qnix QX2710 instead of the Yamakasi as i have both of them delivered on monday. I've got the Qnix from accessorieswhole and it is great. Could even change it to 120hz without a problem. I still need to test if it is suitable for gaming but my old Achieva Shimian Multi Monitor wasn't bad for gaming neither. green-sum right now isn't my favorite seller...

http://www.ebay.de/itm/121311449390?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> I've got an 660TI also. Right now personally would tend to a Qnix QX2710 instead of the Yamakasi as i have both of them delivered on monday. I've got the Qnix from accessorieswhole and it is great. Could even change it to 120hz without a problem. I still need to test if it is suitable for gaming but my old Achieva Shimian Multi Monitor wasn't bad for gaming neither. green-sum right now isn't my favorite seller...
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/121311449390?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


With all these brands and model numbers, I'm getting so confused. The Qnix is a PLS panel correct? I thought when you overdrive the PLS panel it looks like crap even though it can do 120Hz?


----------



## Ben Sisko

In my ebay link the Qnix is listed with an AH-VA panel.
I still have more testing to do as the Qnix was supposed to be my secondary screen with HDMI for my IPTV receiver.
As the Yamakasi is such a letdown i need to focus more on the Qnix.


----------



## timcee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> I've got an 660TI also. Right now personally would tend to a Qnix QX2710 instead of the Yamakasi as i have both of them delivered on monday. I've got the Qnix from accessorieswhole and it is great. Could even change it to 120hz without a problem. I still need to test if it is suitable for gaming but my old Achieva Shimian Multi Monitor wasn't bad for gaming neither. green-sum right now isn't my favorite seller...
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/121311449390?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


Thanks Ben. Can I ask what was the problem with green-sum? Why do you prefer the Qnix can I ask? Overclocking is the most important thing as this is for gaming so want that to be guaranteed.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> In my ebay link the Qnix is listed with an AH-VA panel.
> I still have more testing to do as the Qnix was supposed to be my secondary screen with HDMI for my IPTV receiver.
> As the Yamakasi is such a letdown i need to focus more on the Qnix.


Ah ok, like I said it's hard to keep up what panel is used with what model # and brand.

The only thing that would hold me back from getting that monitor is the HDMI port. Usually multiple inputs cause input lag. Most don't really notice it or care and that includes me, but now that I compare my Catleap to my Dell 2709W I can clearly see what input lag is all about.


----------



## Ben Sisko

Sure you can. green-sum delivered a Yamakasi with two stuck pixels in the center of the screen. On the plus side they agreed to replace the screen. But every question i send to them wasn't really answered. I even got the same generic answer for two different mails. Right now all i know is that DHL will ship it back but nothing about the planned timeline for delivering a new one. And as i read to many bad stories about the current Yamakasi 2Bs i hope to get a refund instead of a new one.
I prefer the Qnix as it also has a good image in my opinion and it goes up to 100hz. I check it a few minutes ago and it can't go up to 120hz like i mentioned a few posts before. But that could be the case as i switched the cables a few times and made some configuration with CRU.
Like a learned the hard way: There is no guarantee for overlocking...

@ontariotl:
Me neither. I needed to check the offer and google to be sure









I'm probably one of the guys who wouldn't care as i can't really compare right now. Maybe i will test it with both monitors tomorrow.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Well you go ahead and pay the extra that they are asking and prove me wrong that I doubt they are upgraded then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I don't know what forums (besides this one) you are reading but when I did my research, I've only read one person who had been able to get 135Hz, and that was with SLi at the time. Not all Catleaps were at 135Hz, 120Hz was and is still obtainable, still just luck of the draw.
> 
> It is possible when the Catleaps came out 2 years ago, the product had more quality to them, but since have cheaped out on parts that connect to the panel to save money and well....to make more money.


Well it's impossible to "prove you wrong" but I already did pay more for mine and already own a 120hz 24/7 unit. I'm not recommending anyone buy another one because then i feel guilty when they can't do 120hz even though there's like 15 factors at play.

One thing I do know for a fact: the 2B OC used to have very low PWM frequency. Mine is not PWM. Vega bought 8 Catleaps and they were all pwm and all overclocked very high. There have been changes to these units over the years they've been selling them and that's all I can say.


----------



## timcee

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> Sure you can. green-sum delivered a Yamakasi with two stuck pixels in the center of the screen. On the plus side they agreed to replace the screen. But every question i send to them wasn't really answered. I even got the same generic answer for two different mails. Right now all i know is that DHL will ship it back but nothing about the planned timeline for delivering a new one. And as i read to many bad stories about the current Yamakasi 2Bs i hope to get a refund instead of a new one.
> I prefer the Qnix as it also has a good image in my opinion and it goes up to 100hz. I check it a few minutes ago and it can't go up to 120hz like i mentioned a few posts before. But that could be the case as i switched the cables a few times and made some configuration with CRU.
> Like a learned the hard way: There is no guarantee for overlocking...


Thank mate. I guess I was thinking as long as my 660 was up to the job it would overclock. I know you had dead pixels but did you try to get 120hz on the catleap with the GTX 660?


----------



## Ben Sisko

I did and it failed as i got screen distortions. But not as bad as with 96, 100 and 110hz.
Mostly i could see it when watching video files or on the text in a browser.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Well it's impossible to "prove you wrong" but I already did pay more for mine and already own a 120hz 24/7 unit. I'm not recommending anyone buy another one because then i feel guilty when they can't do 120hz even though there's like 15 factors at play.
> 
> One thing I do know for a fact: the 2B OC used to have very low PWM frequency. Mine is not PWM. Vega bought 8 Catleaps and they were all pwm and all overclocked very high. There have been changes to these units over the years they've been selling them and that's all I can say.


I'm with you with owning a 120Hz 24/7 Catleap and it's only been a few weeks of purchasing it. So it is still possible. I would still recommend it if it was at the price I paid and not the price jump extortion now as its a beautful looking panel regardless of overdriving the panel. With that, I would never say it is 100% going to hit 120Hz all the time no matter how many have posted they have made that golden mark.

It's like me telling everyone to buy an Ivy Bridge 3770K because I hit 5Ghz and every one should hit that mark like me because they are manufactured the same process and haven't changed at all, just different wafers. That would be insane.

Everyone has different hardware, different drivers running and circumstances that may hold an overclock back which you already stated your realise and agree with, which goes the same for the Catleaps. I agree with }SkOrPn--' that the internal cables to the Panel were to be upgraded to something better, it will probably add more success to the overdrive to 120Hz. I can't tell no one to not buy it because there is no garuantee, it's what us overclockers do...push the limit and sometimes results could be disappointing.

I haven't tested for PWM as it hasn't bothered me since I don't dim my monitor. But yeah, Vega went bat **** crazy with buying a whole bunch of them. And I agree, they probably have better components installed at that time.

All I'm saying is with the price jump, doesn't mean there are different components inside. They are the same product that was sold a week ago with lower prices. Now it's just a cash grab.


----------



## timcee

Ok cheers, I'll do some more thinking then and have a look at the Qnix. I haven't looked into that model yet.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> A couple years ago they went as high as $1400 after stocks depleted. You can still get them elsewhere at reasonable prices: http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=127


Good price but can this website be trusted?


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Good price but can this website be trusted?


If they still have that price by the time I have the money I certainly hope so. Green-Sum on ebay have lost their minds.. $550? Really? Thats $200 more than a couple of days ago.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> If they still have that price by the time I have the money I certainly hope so. Green-Sum on ebay have lost their minds.. $550? Really? Thats $200 more than a couple of days ago.


Once people stop buying them, the price will drop again.


----------



## battleaxe

Okay, this is probably a bad place to ask this but here goes. I'm in the market for a new monitor. Looking at the Yamakasi Catleap and a few other Asian monitors. I don't want to spend more than about 350.00 to 400.

Which ones are the best deal? I don't care about brand loyalty or anything like that. I see Yamakasi has a few other or new models like the Jupiter? Are they inferior to the Catleap model? Or are they same basic model? What about QNIX?

I'm not a monitor expert so please be nice.

Needs:

I game FPS shooter. Do CAD rendering, and spend way too much time on my computer... like about 10 hours a day minimum. (probably why my eyes are going bad)

Any tips or help greatly appreciated.


----------



## Zahix

Green-sum response about the price spike:

"The item price could sometimes be changed periodically regarding in the market condition. Especially the price of Catleap 2B has been increased because of the shortage of supply."


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Green-sum response about the price spike:
> 
> "The item price could sometimes be changed periodically regarding in the market condition. Especially the price of Catleap 2B has been increased because of the shortage of supply."


Easy Translation: Supply and Demand= more profit!


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey, when you opened it up, did you just open it slighty and push on it without disconnecting the cables and put it back together or did you disassemble all of it?


I disconnected everything but the wires going into the PCB. on the connetors near the PCB I just put a screw driver in and pressed it lightly for each pin and you can feel it make contact with connectors. I'm sure its not a contact issue. Its either bad PCB or wires.

Note the reason I thought maybe it would do something was because one guy posted it fixed is issue. But he was artifacting at 60hz. But two of us already took it apart that where stuck at 100hz like you and both of us had no results opening it so unless your changing the stand I wouldn't bother I don't think it will do anything. Personally I think we all have a bad batch of PCB's


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I disconnected everything but the wires going into the PCB. on the connetors near the PCB I just put a screw driver in and pressed it lightly for each pin and you can feel it make contact with connectors. I'm sure its not a contact issue. Its either bad PCB or wires.
> 
> Note the reason I thought maybe it would do something was because one guy posted it fixed is issue. But he was artifacting at 60hz. But two of us already took it apart that where stuck at 100hz like you and both of us had no results opening it so unless your changing the stand I wouldn't bother I don't think it will do anything. Personally I think we all have a bad batch of PCB's


Yeah... I guess. On the positive side, no dead pixels and absolutely no BLB, which was really bad on my first QNIX. So, like someone mentioned earlier, it is a beautiful panel. And you couldn't ask for more for 350 bucks! Still, I love to overclock everything, so it does gnaw at me








Update on my pursuit of 100hz+: I tried the brand new drivers that came out yesterday, that didn't help. I tried to re-apply my overclock/overvolt on my 780Ti's( I disabled it so I could see if that impacted the OC on the Catleap) but that didn't help. Tried running without SLI, no difference.
I'm gonna try older drivers today, just to check.
And as a last resort, I'm gonna install a fresh win8 on a new partition(since im running win7 now) and test it with just the required drivers installed.
Atleast that way I can rule out drivers/software.


----------



## finaltidus

Hi guys.

I successfully overclocked my Catleap 2B monitor to 120hz using manual settings.

However as I use the monitor for a few days I realise that there are these very fine horizontal scanlines. Its slightly noticeable but it can be distracting for a perfectionist like myself.

What are the settings i am adjust to get rid of these scanlines? I am only using the Nvidia Control Panel to adjust the timings.

Is it that I need to adjust the HORIZONTAL TOTAL or VERTICAL TOTAL? My Horizontal total is 2728 and vertical is 1462. Do i need to increase or decrease?

Desperately need help.


----------



## latprod

I've never quite understood the difference between using NVCP and CRU, in terms of performance / reliability if you have, like me, 780Ti's. I realize I don't need to use CRU, but is there any advantages/disadvantages to using it? Could I get better timing control to perhaps reach higher than 100hz?
Or is there no point in trying to go down that route?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Have you tried increasing your voltage to your GPU?
> 
> I like CRU because it allows you to see the decimal points in the exact refresh rate you end up with.
> 
> Edit: Yours are exactly correct 120.000Hz. There must be something different between our monitors...
> 
> I don't use the catleap driver at all. I don't think it makes any difference, though.
> 
> Maybe the cable but seems like other people with the red dots (which I'm not familiar with) are stumped as well.
> 
> What about your Windows install mode and Compatibilty Support Module?
> Recently I noticed that my AMD card definitely acts differently with CSM enabled in BIOS. I have Win 8 installed in UEFI mode but unless I enable CSM I cannot adjust my GPU voltage in MSI afterburner.
> 
> Can anyone take a photograph of the red dots?


As requested, here is a couple of pictures of the amazing red pieces of human excrement that litter my screen above 100hz!


----------



## Ben Sisko

These red dots are oddly familiar...


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> These red dots are oddly familiar...


Yeah, I figured you'd say that. Amazingly annoying

Edit: Maybe I remembered wrong, were you the guy with the same issue? If not, in what way do they look familiar?


----------



## Ben Sisko

Does it also occur that you have whole "blocks" missing when you start a video for example? So not just some dots in red or black, more like whole parts of information?
Sadly i can't take pictures right now.

Tried some manual options in CRU and 120hz is a better option than 96-110hz. In that range i still get scan lines etc.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> Does it also occur that you have whole "blocks" missing when you start a video for example? So not just some dots in red or black, more like whole parts of information?
> Sadly i can't take pictures right now.
> 
> Tried some manual options in CRU and 120hz is a better option than 96-110hz. In that range i still get scan lines etc.


No i don't have any problems with blocks missing, it's more like just green lines and these weird red dots.


----------



## finaltidus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finaltidus*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I successfully overclocked my Catleap 2B monitor to 120hz using manual settings.
> 
> However as I use the monitor for a few days I realise that there are these very fine horizontal scanlines. Its slightly noticeable but it can be distracting for a perfectionist like myself.
> 
> What are the settings i am adjust to get rid of these scanlines? I am only using the Nvidia Control Panel to adjust the timings.
> 
> Is it that I need to adjust the HORIZONTAL TOTAL or VERTICAL TOTAL? My Horizontal total is 2728 and vertical is 1462. Do i need to increase or decrease?
> 
> Desperately need help.


Anybody can help???


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finaltidus*
> 
> Anybody can help???


Try 2705 1445


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finaltidus*
> 
> Hi guys.
> 
> I successfully overclocked my Catleap 2B monitor to 120hz using manual settings.
> 
> However as I use the monitor for a few days I realise that there are these very fine horizontal scanlines. Its slightly noticeable but it can be distracting for a perfectionist like myself.
> 
> What are the settings i am adjust to get rid of these scanlines? I am only using the Nvidia Control Panel to adjust the timings.
> 
> Is it that I need to adjust the HORIZONTAL TOTAL or VERTICAL TOTAL? My Horizontal total is 2728 and vertical is 1462. Do i need to increase or decrease?
> 
> Desperately need help.


May I ask when did you purchase your Cat2B and from where? Thanks!


----------



## latprod

2560x1440monitor.com ... is this place legit? Much cheaper than ebay for a so-called "pixel perfect" yamakasi 2b OC


----------



## Qbex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *finaltidus*
> 
> Anybody can help???


Hey, I've noticed same thing on my 2A Catleap q270 when overclocked to 100Hz+ , I can see those lines on 90Hz even but only under magnifying glass so that's not an issue for normal use.
Bad news I was unable to rectify it with custom refresh settings, nothing really cures it.
Btw - reading all those posts of peeps with Catleaps dying left and right, all on 120Hz only just prove what i suspected from the beginning - if you push that screen too hard it will poop itself sooner rather then later.
Mine is still going strong after 2.5 years of heavy everyday use at 90Hz. Besides pumping more then 90fps in games maxed out is no small feat and only really possible on SLI or CF.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Qbex*
> 
> Hey, I've noticed same thing on my 2A Catleap q270 when overclocked to 100Hz+ , I can see those lines on 90Hz even but only under magnifying glass so that's not an issue for normal use.
> Bad news I was unable to rectify it with custom refresh settings, nothing really cures it.
> Btw - reading all those posts of peeps with Catleaps dying left and right, all on 120Hz only just prove what i suspected from the beginning - if you push that screen too hard it will poop itself sooner rather then later.
> Mine is still going strong after 2.5 years of heavy everyday use at 90Hz. Besides pumping more then 90fps in games maxed out is no small feat and only really possible on SLI or CF.


Haha I guess that is a small comfort considering I can't go over 96. Maybe that's a good thing in the end


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> 2560x1440monitor.com ... is this place legit? Much cheaper than ebay for a so-called "pixel perfect" yamakasi 2b OC


Yes, legit. Got 3 monitors from them incl the catleap. Slightly slower then ebay sellers, they take about a week to process order before shipping.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Yeah... I guess. On the positive side, no dead pixels and absolutely no BLB, which was really bad on my first QNIX. So, like someone mentioned earlier, it is a beautiful panel. And you couldn't ask for more for 350 bucks! Still, I love to overclock everything, so it does gnaw at me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update on my pursuit of 100hz+: I tried the brand new drivers that came out yesterday, that didn't help. I tried to re-apply my overclock/overvolt on my 780Ti's( I disabled it so I could see if that impacted the OC on the Catleap) but that didn't help. Tried running without SLI, no difference.
> I'm gonna try older drivers today, just to check.
> And as a last resort, I'm gonna install a fresh win8 on a new partition(since im running win7 now) and test it with just the required drivers installed.
> Atleast that way I can rule out drivers/software.


That will be a waist of time it's the PCB. It's not software. I know that for sure. QNIX on same system does higher. But I'm still using the Catleap over QNIX


----------



## rtorbs

Guys before i put my catleap 2b back on eaby would i be correct in thinking that fine tuning wont squeeze me another 30hz+ out of the panel? Dont get me wrong for the money its a good deal but its bottlenecking by new rig not being able to go above 70hz so gonna invest in an asus rog i reckon.....i will say though that it came with no dead pixels and zero blb or contrast issues from what i can tell which was good!


----------



## aomas

Hello Catleapers,

Today im gonna ask you guys couple questions, is there even slight possibility that the newer "4" revision catleaps might have different panel than LG's? Because today i got response which sounds like time being played, i was promised that 2B boards will be sent but instead got response that manufacturer told the seller that "it will not work as the panel is different". Honestly i dont believe that its either ther manufacturer or the seller which just dont want to use their time to send me the board and trying to sweep it under the rug. Anyway so today i still asked that what ever manufacturer is telling i've been promised to get the 2B board so i asked one last time if he would send it to me, and also told that my Ebay Buer Protection is running out of time and i will need to contact them if im not being supplied what has been promised.

So to quickly summary things up all my fears are coming this might be the stalling technique everyone has been talking about. Now ill wait for one last response and if its not for my pleasing im gonna talk to the Ebay Customer Service, ( i did open case in the beginning of the false advertisement ) so i do have time to solve this for 30 days (about half is still left). Seller for this has been Bigclothcrafting, i dont wanna throw him to the wolfs yet but will still warn people to be carefully, and will give updates if my fears were false.

EDIT: rtorbs are u even sure u have real 2B and not 2C, because i'v heard 2C's can go up to 70hz, mine didnt mine got 64hz. (and have u tried the pixel clocker first?)


----------



## rtorbs

Hi mate, im not sure of much tbh...i did as much reading as i could before hand but seems its not one of the good ones....as for the pixel clocker.....not too sure off top of my head either? Im not in at mo so cant say.....

I guess all n was trying to establish is would i kbow at this point if my panel has it in it from these early basic tweeks or do i need to fine tune .....i dont really have either time or patience if im honest and would sooner invest in a branded panel instead i think


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> That will be a waist of time it's the PCB. It's not software. I know that for sure. QNIX on same system does higher. But I'm still using the Catleap over QNIX


I agree, don't go to extreme measures with driver installs as if changing drivers like I suggested don't change the outcome in the least bit then it wont help you like it did for me.


----------



## Ben Sisko

@latprod:

In the screen with tthe studio logo you can see what i meant with the other screen distortions besides the red dots


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> I agree, don't go to extreme measures with driver installs as if changing drivers like I suggested don't change the outcome in the least bit then it wont help you like it did for me.


Okay, thanks guys, I'll stop it now.
But is there a way to check if I have a real 2B board? I just tried for the hell of it to start at 60 and go upwards, and I swear, everything above like 67 produces scan lines. I mean, fine, I can live with 96, that's a big increase from 60, but as I said before, It's not 100% stable. It seems ANY overclock on this thing isn't stable... So now I'm beginning to worry about the honesty of the seller here.

Edit: It's at it worst when I switch the monitor on after it being off for a while, then I get lines all over the place. I have to change back to 60 and up to 96 again to get rid of them. Then they only appear every now and then, but still hugely annoying. I mean, clearly, this has to be a breach of the "overclock" sales pitch. How do I even prove this to the seller? I can't have it not overclock AT ALL, then there's no point


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> @latprod:
> 
> In the screen with tthe studio logo you can see what i meant with the other screen distortions besides the red dots


Meh, that doesn't look good :/


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> I've got an 660TI also. Right now personally would tend to a Qnix QX2710 instead of the Yamakasi as i have both of them delivered on monday. I've got the Qnix from accessorieswhole and it is great. Could even change it to 120hz without a problem. I still need to test if it is suitable for gaming but my old Achieva Shimian Multi Monitor wasn't bad for gaming neither. green-sum right now isn't my favorite seller...
> 
> http://www.ebay.de/itm/121311449390?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> With all these brands and model numbers, I'm getting so confused. The Qnix is a PLS panel correct? I thought when you overdrive the PLS panel it looks like crap even though it can do 120Hz?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Ben Sisko*
> 
> In my ebay link the Qnix is listed with an AH-VA panel.
> I still have more testing to do as the Qnix was supposed to be my secondary screen with HDMI for my IPTV receiver.
> As the Yamakasi is such a letdown i need to focus more on the Qnix.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...

Not trying to burst your enthusiasm ... BUT the QNIX multi-input (HDMI) you describe won't overclock beyond 75Hz-85Hz without dropping frames (testufo). 96Hz-120Hz is registering a "false" overclock ....
Read more about it *HERE* ...








Don't feel bad a lot of guys have been deceived by the false advertising









QNIX QX2710 True10 multi-input AH-VA panel falsely advertises 96Hz-120Hz overclocking.
QNIX QX2710 single-input PLS panel "may" achieve 96Hz-120+Hz OC's without dropping frames.
There are a lot of similarities to the Yamakazi naming conventions/components but QNIX really took some false liberties with the multi-input (True10) models ...


----------



## Ben Sisko

I don't feel bad. Like i said i need to focus more on the Qnix and adjusted my statement not long after i posted my first impression about the fault 120hz overclock attempt.








And gladly now you posted these useful info i needed. So thanks mate for clearing that up and save me lots of time roaming this and other boards! Where were you yesterday?


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Okay, thanks guys, I'll stop it now.
> But is there a way to check if I have a real 2B board? I just tried for the hell of it to start at 60 and go upwards, and I swear, everything above like 67 produces scan lines. I mean, fine, I can live with 96, that's a big increase from 60, but as I said before, It's not 100% stable. It seems ANY overclock on this thing isn't stable... So now I'm beginning to worry about the honesty of the seller here.
> 
> Edit: It's at it worst when I switch the monitor on after it being off for a while, then I get lines all over the place. I have to change back to 60 and up to 96 again to get rid of them. Then they only appear every now and then, but still hugely annoying. I mean, clearly, this has to be a breach of the "overclock" sales pitch. How do I even prove this to the seller? I can't have it not overclock AT ALL, then there's no point


The only 100% way to know for sure is to take the bezel apart and check the tcon board installed on the panel. It will be covered by a metal plate that needs to be removed. Two ribbon like cable should be attached to it and the contoller chip should be labelled "LG" on it.

The first hint that I mentioned before that the dvi board included an audio jack it should mean its a "2B" might be a moot point with this latest batch of so called overclockers. Maybe I just lucked out myself to get an actual one and others here may have been ripped off.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> The only 100% way to know for sure is to take the bezel apart and check the tcon board installed on the panel. It will be covered by a metal plate that needs to be removed. Two ribbon like cable should be attached to it and the contoller chip should be labelled "LG" on it.
> 
> The first hint that I mentioned before that the dvi board included an audio jack it should mean its a "2B" might be a moot point with this latest batch of so called overclockers. Maybe I just lucked out myself to get an actual one and others here may have been ripped off.


Yeah, I can try and open my old broke qnix first, to get a feel for it, then the catleap if need be.
The audio jack is there right beneath the DVI port.


----------



## Zahix

It's been more than 30 hours since I mailed 2560x1440monitor.com about the Cat2B and I haven't received a reply yet...


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone know how long it takes for the emaxeon order to finally send you a tracking number? That was the reason I used USPS so I would get a tracking number, and its been 6 days now. Did you guys get a tracking number with your order?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Wow, the T-Power brick looks much nicer and better build quality over the power brick suggested in the OP. Now I hope it works, lol.

Anyway, does this look like the correct connector?


----------



## latprod

For some reason things are stable at 100hz for me now, no more BS. Maybe it needed some time? But after a color proflile change and some fine tuning, this is without a doubt the finest monitor I have ever seen. Absolutely stunning picture.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> For some reason things are stable at 100hz for me now, no more BS. Maybe it needed some time? But after a color proflile change and some fine tuning, this is without a doubt the finest monitor I have ever seen. Absolutely stunning picture.


Congrats... Maybe it needed a burn in period?


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> For some reason things are stable at 100hz for me now, no more BS. Maybe it needed some time? But after a color proflile change and some fine tuning, this is without a doubt the finest monitor I have ever seen. Absolutely stunning picture.


Congrats on it behaving for you. I know sometimes my panel needs to warm up as I get the odd green scan line when brought out of sleep mode.


----------



## latprod

Yeah that's weird. It's strange, it's like the panel itself needed some time.. I even think the thing looks better now. It's not like it's a plasma screen, so strange...


----------



## OkanG

I'm considering the Qnix qx2710 but I'm looking at other Korean monitors to see if there is anything better. The Qnix monitors are more available on ebay.co.uk, but I'd like to hear your opinion on what the Catleap has on the Qnix monitors







The only negative thing with the Qnix's I guess is the wobbly monitor stand. Is this a common issue with all Korean monitors?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> I'm considering the Qnix qx2710 but I'm looking at other Korean monitors to see if there is anything better. The Qnix monitors are more available on ebay.co.uk, but I'd like to hear your opinion on what the Catleap has on the Qnix monitors
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The only negative thing with the Qnix's I guess is the wobbly monitor stand. Is this a common issue with all Korean monitors?


I've just spent a few weeks with my Catleap 2B, going from a matte qnix. (I used to own a glossy qnix as well) and to be honest, I think this panel just looks much better than the qnix. It's got gorgeous colours, really crisp and sharp image, it doesn't go darker when overclocking and overall better panel uniformity.
Also, both of my qnix has pretty severe BLB at the top of the screen, while my catleap has none whatsoever.
The only limitation is that mine can reach 100hz max, but that seems to be just random. The stand on both monitors is pretty useless and wobbly, but who cares about that? Just replace it or VESA mount it.

I don't think you will find a better panel for the money anywhere. Go for it dude

Edit: Ofcourse it's IPS vs PLS, and I just personally favor IPS. All of the above being said, I loved my qnix (the glossy one atleast).


----------



## OkanG

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I've just spent a few weeks with my Catleap 2B, going from a matte qnix. (I used to own a glossy qnix as well) and to be honest, I think this panel just looks much better than the qnix. It's got gorgeous colours, really crisp and sharp image, it doesn't go darker when overclocking and overall better panel uniformity.
> Also, both of my qnix has pretty severe BLB at the top of the screen, while my catleap has none whatsoever.
> The only limitation is that mine can reach 100hz max, but that seems to be just random. The stand on both monitors is pretty useless and wobbly, but who cares about that? Just replace it or VESA mount it.
> 
> I don't think you will find a better panel for the money anywhere. Go for it dude
> 
> Edit: Ofcourse it's IPS vs PLS, and I just personally favor IPS. All of the above being said, I loved my qnix (the glossy one atleast).


Haven't tried either kinds of panels, so I won't really see a difference I think. At least I have nothing to compare to than my TN panels. But who cares about IPS vs PLS? If you say the Catleap looks better, then that's the end of the argument right there








Which models of the Catleap is the best/most common?

Should I just go for the cheapest Q270 on Ebay? I want to overclock the monitor as well.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Haven't tried either kinds of panels, so I won't really see a difference I think. At least I have nothing to compare to than my TN panels. But who cares about IPS vs PLS? If you say the Catleap looks better, then that's the end of the argument right there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which models of the Catleap is the best/most common?
> 
> Should I just go for the cheapest Q270 on Ebay? I want to overclock the monitor as well.


The Catleap that overclocks is the 2B OC model. They are kind of pricey right now.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OkanG*
> 
> Haven't tried either kinds of panels, so I won't really see a difference I think. At least I have nothing to compare to than my TN panels. But who cares about IPS vs PLS? If you say the Catleap looks better, then that's the end of the argument right there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Which models of the Catleap is the best/most common?
> 
> Should I just go for the cheapest Q270 on Ebay? I want to overclock the monitor as well.


Well, If you want to overclock you need to buy the single DVI input model, and it has to be the "2B overclock". Like this:

http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=57&product_id=127

They're super overpriced on ebay at the moment, managed to get mine while they were cheap a month ago.

Also, I think glossy looks much better than matte, but that's a matter of preference I guess.

there are new glossy from the qnix on ebay as well at the moment, several people on the other qnix forum has asked the seller if it is real or just a matte + tempered glass, but the seller has specified it is a glossy.
But I don't know 100% for sure

http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-DVI-D-PC-Monitor-/131318856284?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item1e9336ba5c

In the end it's up to you, the glossy qnix is a beautiful monitor as well.


----------



## OkanG

Saw them at 1,200£ and wondered what the hell that was about as well.

I guess I'll go for the single input Qnix monitors after all. Overclockability is a big factor for me, and I might as well buy a 27" 1440p 144Hz non-Korean monitor for the money instead of paying 1,200£ for a Catleap


----------



## UNOE

I'm posting this in this thread as well as QNIX thread because I think it maybe helpful to people following both threads and there currently is no other post on any forum I know of that talks about OSX pixel patching. Most post I can find say it can't be done on OSX.....

I finally got past the 84hz limit in OSX this post is for people that use OSX and have overclocking monitors. I don't believe I have found any post where anyone has gone over 84hz for any of these monitors in OSX so I hope this helps someone else.

This will work on any mac with support video card running Yosemite 10.10.0

First off you have to patch the IOkit. Attached is the command.

mac-pixel-clock.zip 4k .zip file


*In terminal :* "sudo macPixelClockPatcher.command"

*Then sign the patch with* "sudo codesign -f -s - /System/Library/Frameworks/IOKit.framework/Versions/A/IOKit"

Now your pixel clock is patched download SwithResX - http://www.madrau.com/srx_download/download.html
With switchresx you can save two resolutions without buying it. After the trial is over you can continue to use those two resolutions but you can never change them again until you purchase the software.

Now the part that I was getting confused about is I was setting the pixel clock in switchresx. But you don't have to do anything here since its already patched just leave that field unchecked.


Then just set your custom resolutions - save and exit then restart - I set the Daemon to open at boot.


Here is the proof


Credit to : the-darkvoid who built this for Yosemite and all the other who contributed here : https://code.google.com/p/mac-pixel-clock-patch/source/clones


----------



## Teelo Brown

Canadian noobie here. I apologize if I'm rehashing questions that have been answered 100 times already, there's a lot of content to sift through. I'm doing my best lol.

Is this the model I'm looking for, for 100+HZ overclockability?

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-1440p-PC-Monitor-/140922305094

Also, is there anything I absolutely should know before pulling the trigger, in terms of could-be deal breakers for this monitor? I've heard random horror stories with back light bleeding, dead pixels, non-existent return policy in practice, or the overclocking not working due to showing the same frame multiple times. Not with this model but with similar ones. What am I getting into here?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teelo Brown*
> 
> Canadian noobie here. I apologize if I'm rehashing questions that have been answered 100 times already, there's a lot of content to sift through. I'm doing my best lol.
> 
> Is this the model I'm looking for, for 100+HZ overclockability?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-1440p-PC-Monitor-/140922305094
> 
> Also, is there anything I absolutely should know before pulling the trigger, in terms of could-be deal breakers for this monitor? I've heard random horror stories with back light bleeding, dead pixels, non-existent return policy in practice, or the overclocking not working due to showing the same frame multiple times. Not with this model but with similar ones. What am I getting into here?


That is the correct model








I love mine... incredible colors. No backlight bleed.
I would probably by an Overlord instead at this price.
http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/27-monitors/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy


----------



## Teelo Brown

I've noticed that some of the 2b owners in the owner's club have reported a low OC. Is there a reason for this?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> That is the correct model
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I love mine... incredible colors. No backlight bleed.
> I would probably by an Overlord instead at this price.
> http://overlordcomputer.com/collections/27-monitors/products/tempest-x270oc-glossy


I second this, I would not purchase a Korean shipped monitor at that price, not without pre-testing to 96hz and a zero bad pixel policy. I had a hard time trying to talk myself into doing it at $350, but at over $500? Absolutely NOT. The Overlord uses a better stand and its actually tested to 96hz before they ship. In fact, they test all the way up to 110hz. Something the Koreans do not do. So, do yourself a favor and check to see if Overlord will ship to your country.

The only thing I do not like about Overlord is trying to get Tech support or emails answered. I have asked several important questions about their Monitors and/or PCB kits and to date, nada nothing, not a peep out of them, completely ignored. So, I'm going to assume they are just too busy to deal with anyone other than already paid customers.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Teelo Brown*
> 
> Canadian noobie here. I apologize if I'm rehashing questions that have been answered 100 times already, there's a lot of content to sift through. I'm doing my best lol.
> 
> Is this the model I'm looking for, for 100+HZ overclockability?
> 
> http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-1440p-PC-Monitor-/140922305094
> 
> Also, is there anything I absolutely should know before pulling the trigger, in terms of could-be deal breakers for this monitor? I've heard random horror stories with back light bleeding, dead pixels, non-existent return policy in practice, or the overclocking not working due to showing the same frame multiple times. Not with this model but with similar ones. What am I getting into here?


Like everyone else said:

I was raving about my qnix once upon a time, but the catleap blows me away. I can even just sit and stare at my desktop for a couple of minutes and marvel at the blacks and the color








that being said, i got mine for 350 or something, and totally worth it at that price.
I don't know much about overlord but since they OC test their panels I'd go that route as well if you have the cash


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I second this, I would not purchase a Korean shipped monitor at that price, not without pre-testing to 96hz and a zero bad pixel policy. I had a hard time trying to talk myself into doing it at $350, but at over $500? Absolutely NOT. The Overlord uses a better stand and its actually tested to 96hz before they ship. In fact, they test all the way up to 110hz. Something the Koreans do not do. So, do yourself a favor and check to see if Overlord will ship to your country.
> 
> The only thing I do not like about Overlord is trying to get Tech support or emails answered. I have asked several important questions about their Monitors and/or PCB kits and to date, nada nothing, not a peep out of them, completely ignored. So, I'm going to assume they are just too busy to deal with anyone other than already paid customers.


I third this. I love how they label the item as "Special Big Sale" when it was almost $300 cheaper a few weeks ago. The cost of the Overlord monitor is worth it as of right now. And if you plan on using the monitor with a vesa stand, then it will make life more easier since the Yamakasi Q270 has a stupid grey plastic mold piece blocking the mounts in which you have to take your bezel apart to remove it.

If you can be patient, give it another week or two when sales dry up, keep an eye on prices from green-sum to drop again.

http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/ still has their monitor at a decent price and comes from Korea. I would say it's the same risk you could take as ordering from Green-Sum. At least they do Paypal and credit cards so if there needs to be a dispute, you have someone in your corner as a buyer. I did notice when I attempted to order from them, my order had free shipping to Canada. I just don't know how fast they would ship _EDIT- I just read 1 day turn around service after payment_. Although what caught my eye within 1 year, they will send another power supply or boards if they go bad for free. I'd say that's one step up from other ebayers and you wouldn't have to spend for shipping back from your own wallet.

My ebayer took 2 days to get my monitor in hand. Quite impressive.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Although what caught my eye within 1 year, they will send another power supply or boards if they go bad for free. I'd say that's one step up from other ebayers and you wouldn't have to spend for shipping back from your own wallet.


Yeah that caught my eyes also. It even says Spare/Replacement Parts... SPARES ??? What?
Quote:


> Panel Warranty: One (1) year. No more than 3/3/5 bright/colored (stuck)/dead pixels shall appear during the warranty period.
> Internal Components: One (1) year.
> Power Brick: One (1) year.
> *Spare*/Replacement Parts: Ninety (90) days.


I'm not sure what to make of the statement of "Spare" parts. lol, so I can ask them within 90 days to send me a spare board, or spare panel??? Somehow I think not...


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah that caught my eyes also. It even says Spare/Replacement Parts... SPARES ??? What?
> I'm not sure what to make of the statement of "Spare" parts. lol, so I can ask them within 90 days to send me a spare board, or spare panel??? Somehow I think not...


I think what they mean since their explanations do seem a little off (maybe Google translate was not working right?), but I think the 90 day is when they send you parts, the time starts then for the spare parts. So if it breaks again before 90 days of the first shipment, they will do it again, after 90, you are probably gonna have to open your wallet.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Hmm, that is not what "Spare Parts" means to me though. It means I have a spare, just in case the original ones break down. Its like having a "spare tire" for a automobile or a motorcycle, just in case the original ones being used goes bad, you can pull out the spare and be saved. yay

However, I am well aware they do not mean that, lol. If they did, buying from them would be a no brainer... So, yeah I agree with you...


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> I third this. I love how they label the item as "Special Big Sale" when it was almost $300 cheaper a few weeks ago. The cost of the Overlord monitor is worth it as of right now. And if you plan on using the monitor with a vesa stand, then it will make life more easier since the Yamakasi Q270 has a stupid grey plastic mold piece blocking the mounts in which you have to take your bezel apart to remove it.
> 
> If you can be patient, give it another week or two when sales dry up, keep an eye on prices from green-sum to drop again.
> 
> http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/ still has their monitor at a decent price and comes from Korea. I would say it's the same risk you could take as ordering from Green-Sum. At least they do Paypal and credit cards so if there needs to be a dispute, you have someone in your corner as a buyer. I did notice when I attempted to order from them, my order had free shipping to Canada. I just don't know how fast they would ship _EDIT- I just read 1 day turn around service after payment_. Although what caught my eye within 1 year, they will send another power supply or boards if they go bad for free. I'd say that's one step up from other ebayers and you wouldn't have to spend for shipping back from your own wallet.
> 
> My ebayer took 2 days to get my monitor in hand. Quite impressive.


I think 2560x1440monitor.com is dead because I tried to contact them through email many times to no avail. I hesitated to purchase the Cat2B before because of some recent bad experiences with in the club and now I'm kinda regretting not buying it specially with the price rise.


----------



## blued

Bought and received my catleap from 2560x1440.com just over a week ago, my 3rd monitor from them. I've never had to ask them any questions, just placed the orders and received the units. I believe a few others have also placed and received orders from them in the Qnix thread.


----------



## latprod

If it was me, and I hadn't bought the catleap "on sale" from green-sum, I'd just get one from that site and take my chances. As long as it's paypal you should be ok. Price is pretty damn good.

On another note, does anyone here know if the catleap suffers from image retention in the same way as the qnix when overclocked?


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> If it was me, and I hadn't bought the catleap "on sale" from green-sum, I'd just get one from that site and take my chances. As long as it's paypal you should be ok. Price is pretty damn good.
> 
> On another note, does anyone here know if the catleap suffers from image retention in the same way as the qnix when overclocked?


Can you explain this image retention on the qnix. Its not the same issue with static images displayed for some time is it?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> Can you explain this image retention on the qnix. Its not the same issue with static images displayed for some time is it?


Yeah when it's overclocked and you leave your browser, spreadshett, whatever open for like 20 minutes you can see clear image retention for a while afterwards. It always disappeared with use, but in many ways it acted like a plasma screen.
Several others on the qnix forums have reported the same. So I haven't taken any chances with my catleap yet.


----------



## ontariotl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Yeah when it's overclocked and you leave your browser, spreadshett, whatever open for like 20 minutes you can see clear image retention for a while afterwards. It always disappeared with use, but in many ways it acted like a plasma screen.
> Several others on the qnix forums have reported the same. So I haven't taken any chances with my catleap yet.


I haven't witnessed any image retention issues when overclocking the catleap panel.


----------



## Zahix

So I'm trying to buy a Catleap 2B from 2560x1440monitor but I get stuck in the process because they dont have my country in their database for the shipping fee and I need to contact them in order to proceed. Apparently, mailing them doesn't work and I've tried to call them but the line wasnt ringing. Lol...
Has anyone contacted them before and got a response?


----------



## electro2u

2B OC Catleaps are back down in price.

It seems to me that Green-Sum has a revolving price option set on these auction postings. Every 30 days the price goes back to what it used to be until she goes back in and resets the *new* Big sale price. The *big sale* has been going on for quite some time. She doesn't change the title or text of the posts, just the price. Less work.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> So I'm trying to buy a Catleap 2B from 2560x1440monitor but I get stuck in the process because they dont have my country in their database for the shipping fee and I need to contact them in order to proceed. Apparently, mailing them doesn't work and I've tried to call them but the line wasnt ringing. Lol...
> Has anyone contacted them before and got a response?


Well thats worrying. Although I've bought 3 monitors from them and everything went smoothly, I've never contacted them for queries. Not sure I want to order from them again if they dont respond to emails. If there is a problem or defect and need to communicate with them, what then?

They are mentioned in a review of a Qnix and and says they were very helpful and a certain 'Clyde Choi' answered all their queries.

http://www.technologyx.com/featured/qnix-qx2710-27-2560x1440-monitor-review/

Maybe whoever speaks English is not present in their office or is on leave or something. If I ever order from them again, I would certainly make sure there is someone to communicate with.. else will find alternate seller.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> 2B OC Catleaps are back down in price.
> 
> It seems to me that Green-Sum has a revolving price option set on these auction postings. Every 30 days the price goes back to what it used to be until she goes back in and resets the *new* Big sale price. The *big sale* has been going on for quite some time. She doesn't change the title or text of the posts, just the price. Less work.


Green-sum hasn't changed the prices. I have just checked. Try refreshing the page (maybe clear your cookies/history). All his listings are 519$ and up. I only see 1 monitor being sold at 350$ open box from a random seller.
Also, you could be right, 2560x1440monitor english speaking staff might be on vacation but its been more than 10 days...


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Green-sum hasn't changed the prices. I have just checked. Try refreshing the page (maybe clear your cookies/history). All his listings are 519$ and up. I only see 1 monitor being sold at 350$ open box from a random seller.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-Ground-Shipping-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312

That's interesting. I wouldn't have posted it if it weren't there, but I didn't expect there to be separate pricing.

It's US only I guess.


----------



## Ben Sisko

Be careful. I send mine back and it arrived today at green-sum.
Mine had two bright stuck pixels right in the center and maybe they try to sell it to the next poor soul.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-Ground-Shipping-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312
> 
> That's interesting. I wouldn't have posted it if it weren't there, but I didn't expect there to be separate pricing.
> 
> It's US only I guess.


The preferred version, the perfect pixel, is still $549.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-Monitor-/111399828170?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27aca


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-Ground-Shipping-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312
> 
> That's interesting. I wouldn't have posted it if it weren't there, but I didn't expect there to be separate pricing.
> 
> It's US only I guess.


That's interesting indeed. It didn't show in my search, only the 500's ones. It's US only though and probably a returned unit at that exclusice price(IMO).


----------



## Zahix

Just for the lulz, I have translated my mail to Korean and sent it to 2560x1440monitor.com . Let's see if they respond now.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Has anyone here, in the U.S. ever purchase the Overclocking Kit from emaxeon by chance? Did you actually get the kit delivered? And if so, how long did it take to arrive and did you get tracking info with the order?


----------



## shremi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Has anyone here, in the U.S. ever purchase the Overclocking Kit from emaxeon by chance? Did you actually get the kit delivered? And if so, how long did it take to arrive and did you get tracking info with the order?


I purchased mine right before you sent an email on Monday since I payed DHL shipping he replied todsy with the tracking information but I haven't got a chance to check the status give me a few hours till I get home and check it


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *shremi*
> 
> I purchased mine right before you sent an email on Monday since I payed DHL shipping he replied todsy with the tracking information but I haven't got a chance to check the status give me a few hours till I get home and check it


OK, thanks. Lets compare notes because I purchased on the 18th, and then it was shipped on the 20th Monday, and the tracking number still does not work. Using Air Mail by US Post (SFCQMUS) with tracking I kinda expected a much faster service. I guess the "Air Mail" part of it must be by Hot Air Balloon, or Sail Boat









Next time I am using FedEx or UPS International, or even DHL.


----------



## latprod

Hi guys, I'm a little worried I might have a dead pixel in the lower right corner of my monitor, but I'm really not sure. It looks more like a little grey speckle of dust, not exactly like the dead/stuck pixel stuff I googled. So that leads me to another question, can dust or dirt in any way get "behind" or in there on a glossy panel? I mean, I've heard about it with tempered glass, but...

I've tried to take a picture, it's easier to photograph on a blue background than on a white so here you go.

edit: ignore the circles, there's something wrong with the camera on my phone, I'm talking about the little dot in the middle there


----------



## blued

Pixels are so tiny on 2560x1440 (3,686,400 pixels) screens that they would be very difficult to make out. I have a dead pixel on a DS270 display that only shows up on a certain solid color background (forgot which) but even then it was very difficult to see. If you can easily see it and it bothers you, its probably not a dead pixel. Of course it could be worse if it was a cluster of dead pixels. But usually pixels dont just "die" if they were fine on a new monitor. Can you lightly run a fingernail over it to see if its not just some surface dust or particle? Your display is not tempered glass is it?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Pixels are so tiny on 2560x1440 (3,686,400 pixels) screens that they would be very difficult to make out. I have a dead pixel on a DS270 display that only shows up on a certain solid color background (forgot which) but even then it was very difficult to see. If you can easily see it and it bothers you, its probably not a dead pixel. Of course it could be worse if it was a cluster of dead pixels. But usually pixels dont just "die" if they were fine on a new monitor. Can you lightly run a fingernail over it to see if its not just some surface dust or particle? Your display is not tempered glass is it?


It is supposed to be glossy. It feels very "plasticky" when i touch it, just like the glossy qnix i had before. Tempered glass would feel a lot harder, yes? Also, the seller was adamant it was glossy. And like you say, it *looks* like it's a bit of dust. But that's not better than dead pixels really as I can't get to that dust anyway. But how does that happen on a glossy screen?
I've tried rubbing, but i can clearly see it is not on the outside, it's under the ... whatever it is that covers a glossy screen. I had some actual dirt on the screen right next to it and I could see very easily that this was deeper than that. Weird weird weird. how can you tell its not tempered glass btw?


----------



## blued

Well doesnt seem like tempered glass by the way you described it. But yeah, you can tell whether something is on the surface or underneath on close inspection. Did it just appear all of a sudden?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Well doesnt seem like tempered glass by the way you described it. But yeah, you can tell whether something is on the surface or underneath on close inspection. Did it just appear all of a sudden?


Yep, I think so. I did a lot of tests when first getting this thing, so I don't think it was there before. I've tried pushing on the screen gently, but it doesn't seem to affect it.


----------



## ontariotl

I have a feeling you've had it all along but was too busy concentrated on overclocking the panel to notice. From the looks of it wouldnt be easy to find unless you have the right background to find it. Even if you say you thoroughly checked before, it might have been missed. Now you are starting to relax and enjoy the monitor is when you notice something strange. Higher ppi panels are harder to find dead pixels unless there is a cluster.

I cant tell by the photo whether it is dust or a dead pixel. I'd give it a few days and see if the look of it changes.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> I have a feeling you've had it all along but was too busy concentrated on overclocking the panel to notice. From the looks of it wouldnt be easy to find unless you have the right background to find it. Even if you say you thoroughly checked before, it might have been missed. Now you are starting to relax and enjoy the monitor is when you notice something strange. Higher ppi panels are harder to find dead pixels unless there is a cluster.
> 
> I cant tell by the photo whether it is dust or a dead pixel. I'd give it a few days and see if the look of it changes.


Yeah I can't wait for 120hz 4K under 30". Lol, the seller will probably adopt a under 10 bad or stuck pixel policy, and then only when they are in clusters. haha


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah I can't wait for 120hz 4K under 30". Lol, the seller will probably adopt a under 10 bad or stuck pixel policy, and then only when they are in clusters. haha


The power it would take to push everything with guaranteed 120fps at that res though..


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ontariotl*
> 
> I have a feeling you've had it all along but was too busy concentrated on overclocking the panel to notice. From the looks of it wouldnt be easy to find unless you have the right background to find it. Even if you say you thoroughly checked before, it might have been missed. Now you are starting to relax and enjoy the monitor is when you notice something strange. Higher ppi panels are harder to find dead pixels unless there is a cluster.
> 
> I cant tell by the photo whether it is dust or a dead pixel. I'd give it a few days and see if the look of it changes.


Yeah good advice, I'll give it some time. It's not like it's a deal breaker or anything.


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

Hello guys,

I'm new to this community. I've made an account just to ask a couple of questions to those who might be able to help me.
Im from the Netherlands and i think i've set my mind on buying a Catleap 2b from http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/
As some of you already mentioned they don't seem to respons to any emails but seem to deliver monitors anyway.

- So first off, any of you got a respond / are they legit?
- What is the main difference between the Yamakasi Catleap Q270 2b (OC) and the Qinx QX2710 Evolution ii? After a lot of search some people say the colors are a bit different, but im wondering what are the main differences? (i do care about input lag, pixel lag, light bleed) From this website i just posted above the Catleap is cheaper now than the Qinx.

Thanks in advance,

WhiskeyDelta


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Does anyone know if the emaxeon kit could possibly get stuck in US Customs by chance? It left California last Friday early AM, and I am only 821 miles away, a 12 hour drive. However, USPS only uses commercial air lines from Cali to my State, so not sure why it would take longer than 4 days to fly to my state of NM. In fact, in 30 years of living here I have never seen a USPS carried package from Cali take longer than 3 days.

Are they hitch hiking it to me? I'm getting angry that I paid $21 for AIR MAIL, and its almost three weeks now, that is some very thick air. Maybe it went on Malaysia Airlines and got lost? pfff


----------



## jonathan1107

Hey guys, I just received my catleap q270se Extreme OC edition perfect pixel from GreenSum and it's in perfect shape. With the only exception that I've got a little bit of light bleeding through at 4 different spots...

- *Anybody know a FIX for that?*

- *Also, I managed a 103hz OC on the monitor, anything beyond that and I get artifacts...
Is it safe for a daily OC??? (I don't wanna kill my monitor too soon) My main usage is Web Browsing and Gaming.*

- *Just to make sure I don't forget anything, because OC'ing a monitor is quite a new thing for me: Up to now, I've installed the catleap driver and setup my custom resolution along with my new refresh rate and timings... after that, what should I do? Should I run tests?*

- *I saw that there are color profiles out there, but most of them links are dead, you guys got any? Is it worth it to use something like x-rite ColorMonki Smile to "calibrate" the monitor or can I just use a color profile or use my own eyes?*

- *What determines HOW FAR I can overclock the monitor? I got an MSI gaming GTX 970 4gb card, do you think I should be able to attain 120hz+? because at the moment, I'm stuck @ 103mhz if I don't want artifacts... Is there something I should do different to get a further OC or ....?*

- Any other tips for me?


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiskeyDelta*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I'm new to this community. I've made an account just to ask a couple of questions to those who might be able to help me.
> Im from the Netherlands and i think i've set my mind on buying a Catleap 2b from http://www.2560x1440monitor.com/
> As some of you already mentioned they don't seem to respons to any emails but seem to deliver monitors anyway.
> 
> - So first off, any of you got a respond / are they legit?
> 
> Thanks in advance,
> 
> WhiskeyDelta


Hi and welcome to OCN!
I have not received a single reply from 2560x1440monitor to this day. I'm assuming their support is dead but as you said some members have ordered from them recently without issues which is weird.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Are they hitch hiking it to me? I'm getting angry that I paid $21 for AIR MAIL, and its almost three weeks now, that is some very thick air. Maybe it went on Malaysia Airlines and got lost? pfff


I Lolled at this. It's gonna arrive eventually though.


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Hi and welcome to OCN!
> I have not received a single reply from 2560x1440monitor to this day. I'm assuming their support is dead but as you said some members have ordered from them recently without issues which is weird.


Hi matey, i just wanted to tell you I have just made an order for the catleap 2b on 2560x1440monitor.com ! Im very curious wheter or not i will actually get it If not, there's still the party Paypal. If that won't work i will jsut never order from a korean site again

Wish me luck! I will tell you how it went in hopefully a week if you want?


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiskeyDelta*
> 
> Hi matey, i just wanted to tell you I have just made an order for the catleap 2b on 2560x1440monitor.com ! Im very curious wheter or not i will actually get it If not, there's still the party Paypal. If that won't work i will jsut never order from a korean site again
> 
> Wish me luck! I will tell you how it went in hopefully a week if you want?


Great, I hope you do get the monitor and I get my answer hopefully









Let me know what happens with you. GL


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> I Lolled at this. It's gonna arrive eventually though.


Yeah, it arrived today. Apparently it shipped via SendFromChina (SFC) via Air Mail (SFCQMUS) on the 25th, not the 20th as I was told. Then it took 5 days for DHL Global to get it on the 30th, customs delay perhaps? Then it took them until this morning to get it to my local USPS offices, another 5 days or so. Each shipping service involved, 3 in this case, including SFC has a tracking system. The only number I was given was the one I really did not need, USPS. DHL would have been MUCH better at tracking, with results posted almost every day. SFC tracking would have let me know exactly when it shipped from the seller AND when it left China, and DHL would have kept me informed properly. I'm going to assume Joshua at emaxeon has no control over his shipping arrangements.









Anyway, it looks to be in good physical condition. So, just in case anyone needs one of these know that if you use SFCQMUS "USPS Air Mail", it is NOT a fast service, and never once used USPS air services, at least not for me and you will not get the important tracking numbers that you need, such as SFC and DHL's numbers, which are all over the box. Ordered on the Oct 18th and received on Nov 5th, not exactly the 10 days or less that I expected. So, I hope my now out of warranty panel works, lol...


----------



## pevsfreedom

Hello it's my first post here and I am hoping to add another page of discussion to this 20 billion page thread, anyways I have a Apple Macbook Pro question for you guys:

I purchased a Yamakasi Catleap Q270LED a few months ago. When I first got it I plugged it in to my old MBAir (with a Kanex dual link dvi adapter) and it worked fine. Flash forward a couple of months and I have a Retina MBPro. I tried hooking up the active dual-link dvi Kanex adapter (a new one, I sold the old one) and nothing. When it's plugged in the laptop becomes very choppy and slow. The catleap display just flashes black and gray, no image. I should add I DO NOT have the old MBAir anymore to test out as well.

I've done everything I can think of including resetting the system whatever on the mac (i forget the name) and the PRAM on the mac. I tried the adapter with a different monitor and there was a display, but that was only a 1920x1080p display, not sure if that proves anything or not other then that display works fine but perhaps the 'powered usb cable' isn't supplying enough power to power the Catleap (thus the adapter is bad?). I tried plugging the catleap into my PC (which is an old dinosaur) and I get an image [though I get 4 desktops tiled across the screen, there's still something).

One last thing: I also tried a single link DVI cable from the adapter and it did the same thing on the catleap (flashing black/gray).

Anyways, what do you think is going on?

My 'ideas' are:

1) The adapter is bad somehow. I ordered a different brand and will re-try when I get it.
2) My monitor's gone bad from sitting in it's box for 3-4 months? Seems unlikely, but like I said I get a weird picture plugged into the PC (it's an old PC however which may be why it looks so crappy), but then again this might just prove the monitor is fine.

What I'm really confused by is what if the adapter is fine AND the catleap display is fine? Am I just screwed?

And just so I am following the rules:

1. What type of GPU do you have installed?*Whatever comes stock on 2014 Apple MBP*
2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? *I don't think I need any drivers*
3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? *Tried a separate single-link DVI cable to no avail, got picture from PC using dual-link cable (though picture was very faulty and showed 4 or 6 blinking/flickering tiled displays against the background (this is a very old PC that probably can't handle the catleap)*
4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? *Yes I've tried plugging it into both thunderbolt ports/different USB ports (the adapter)*
4. Tried any of the other things listed above? *See main post*


----------



## NumRocket

Hey,

does someone have a tip or a video for me, how to remove the stand? I've already removed the 8 screws but now I'm stuck since over a hour

I'm unable to open the monitor case. The only thing what I'm keep doing is damaging the plastic.. At the corners my case separates easily, but at other locations I have no chance to separate the case...

I'm so frustrated..


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NumRocket*
> 
> Hey,
> 
> does someone have a tip or a video for me, how to remove the stand? I've already removed the 8 screws but now I'm stuck since over a hour
> 
> I'm unable to open the monitor case. The only thing what I'm keep doing is damaging the plastic.. At the corners my case separates easily, but at other locations I have no chance to separate the case...
> 
> I'm so frustrated..


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

I wanted to let you guys know that the catleap i ordered from 2560x1440mointor.com got canceled. I got my money back and it has been removed from their website. If somebody finds a cheap (under 400 dollar) Catleap2b please let me know!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiskeyDelta*
> 
> I wanted to let you guys know that the catleap i ordered from 2560x1440mointor.com got canceled. I got my money back and it has been removed from their website. If somebody finds a cheap (under 400 dollar) Catleap2b please let me know!


Its no longer in stock, they just took it off their product page. Good thing I got mine when it was available. Seems theres been a run on these in recent weeks which hit stock availability from factory and nudged up pricing.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhiskeyDelta*
> 
> I wanted to let you guys know that the catleap i ordered from 2560x1440mointor.com got canceled. I got my money back and it has been removed from their website. If somebody finds a cheap (under 400 dollar) Catleap2b please let me know!


Did you cancel it or did they? I assume they did but just curious if you did for a reason. Seems strange that they can't even contact you to see if you want to wait for their next available monitor, or if you want a refund. I would have preferred communication myself before cancellation. However, at least they didn't sit on your money for a very long time, or did they?


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

The just refunded my money and that's about it


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pevsfreedom*
> 
> Hello it's my first post here and I am hoping to add another page of discussion to this 20 billion page thread, anyways I have a Apple Macbook Pro question for you guys:
> 
> I purchased a Yamakasi Catleap Q270LED a few months ago. When I first got it I plugged it in to my old MBAir (with a Kanex dual link dvi adapter) and it worked fine. Flash forward a couple of months and I have a Retina MBPro. I tried hooking up the active dual-link dvi Kanex adapter (a new one, I sold the old one) and nothing. When it's plugged in the laptop becomes very choppy and slow. The catleap display just flashes black and gray, no image. I should add I DO NOT have the old MBAir anymore to test out as well.
> 
> I've done everything I can think of including resetting the system whatever on the mac (i forget the name) and the PRAM on the mac. I tried the adapter with a different monitor and there was a display, but that was only a 1920x1080p display, not sure if that proves anything or not other then that display works fine but perhaps the 'powered usb cable' isn't supplying enough power to power the Catleap (thus the adapter is bad?). I tried plugging the catleap into my PC (which is an old dinosaur) and I get an image [though I get 4 desktops tiled across the screen, there's still something).
> 
> One last thing: I also tried a single link DVI cable from the adapter and it did the same thing on the catleap (flashing black/gray).
> 
> Anyways, what do you think is going on?
> 
> My 'ideas' are:
> 
> 1) The adapter is bad somehow. I ordered a different brand and will re-try when I get it.
> 2) My monitor's gone bad from sitting in it's box for 3-4 months? Seems unlikely, but like I said I get a weird picture plugged into the PC (it's an old PC however which may be why it looks so crappy), but then again this might just prove the monitor is fine.
> 
> What I'm really confused by is what if the adapter is fine AND the catleap display is fine? Am I just screwed?
> 
> And just so I am following the rules:
> 
> 1. What type of GPU do you have installed?*Whatever comes stock on 2014 Apple MBP*
> 2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)? *I don't think I need any drivers*
> 3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor? *Tried a separate single-link DVI cable to no avail, got picture from PC using dual-link cable (though picture was very faulty and showed 4 or 6 blinking/flickering tiled displays against the background (this is a very old PC that probably can't handle the catleap)*
> 4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU? *Yes I've tried plugging it into both thunderbolt ports/different USB ports (the adapter)*
> 4. Tried any of the other things listed above? *See main post*


It should work with a active adaptor with USB power. But only at 60hz. No overlocking with adaptors. Not sure what the problem is but you may want to try switchresx and setup some custom resolutions and try some different monitor timing or try 50hz just for testing.

Also make sure power saving is off under "Energy Saver Preferences" "Higher performance" button is selected when connected to the adapter. And make sure GPU switching is not set to automatic.

If you have a mac book pro with intel graphics only it probably won't work. It might work if its Intel Iris Pro, but I don't know. Iris pro is only intel GPU that supports this resolutions. But not sure if its enabled with adaptors or not. Your old MBP probably had only one GPU and it was not intel, so you never had to worry about the Auto GPU switching. But if this new MBP has two GPU's you can just turn off the auto switching and it should work.


----------



## WhiskeyDelta

Removed


----------



## NumRocket

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*


Thank you....


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Can someone please verify the pin outs for me on their Overclock version DVI only model? Please... Below is the image of the 4-pin connector I have. Which pins are Pos and Neg?


----------



## DiaSin

What was that site someone linked a few days ago, sold a 1440p monitor that was OC tested up to 95hz?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> What was that site someone linked a few days ago, sold a 1440p monitor that was OC tested up to 95hz?


There is Overlord computers, but not sure they have any stock. There are a few others but I doubt they test them.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> There is Overlord computers, but not sure they have any stock. There are a few others but I doubt they test them.


Ah, thanks. I don't plan on buying anytime soon, no money. I just wanted to make sure I would be able to find them again when I did have money.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Can someone please verify the pin outs for me on their Overclock version DVI only model? Please... Below is the image of the 4-pin connector I have. Which pins are Pos and Neg?


I can check it when I get home, at work at the moment. Unless someone beats me to it


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I can check it when I get home, at work at the moment. Unless someone beats me to it


Thank you latprod. I can't seem to get a response from the ebay seller, so I may have to call ebay. I ordered the damn power supply on Oct 20th, but had to wait for the Overclocking Kit to get here. Then I had to build a custom box for the PCB so I could test it. So Saturday was the first day I was ready to test this, then and only then did I decide to double check on pin orientation, but was thinking to myself, "what are the chances that it could be wrong" and thinking at the same time "probably zero chance". Well well looks like my hesitation was some sort of devine intervention or something, because the pin outs are indeed incorrect, according to the Engineer that just contacted me this morning regarding this model PSU. I guess Power Supply companies are quick to make sure there products don't burn down things, lol. Anyway, they sent me the below pin out orientation and it is clearly NOT what I got.

Here is the proper pin outs according to the Engineer (that is how he identified himself from Effinet, as the Head Engineer). Anyone disagree with this pin out? Is yours different from this? Something is still nagging at me like I do not know what to believe now. Its just hard to believe that I could have been sent the wrong power supply.



And this is what my meter tells me it is. This is how I got the power supply from the ebay seller top.power.


----------



## saruin

Just a heads up but today might be the last day (at least for now) to get a single input 2B Extreme OC Catleap from green-sum at a great price ($320).

http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-US-Ground-Ship-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *saruin*
> 
> Just a heads up but today might be the last day (at least for now) to get a single input 2B Extreme OC Catleap from green-sum at a great price ($320).
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-US-Ground-Ship-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312


Thanks for the heads up


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I can check it when I get home, at work at the moment. Unless someone beats me to it


Hey just so you know. I fixed my situation, so I do not need you to check for me now. I would still like, if its easy enough for you, to check your pin outs if you can and also check to see if your outer Ground ring is actually functional on the Power Supply. The Power Supply that the Top Power guys sent me does not have a working Ground ring, its not even connected to the negative wire. The cord is just two wires going directly to the 4 pins only.

However, I cut the 4-pin connector off and then took the 2-Pin female plug and soldered it directly to the leads on the backside of the PCB. So, now I have a normal 2-pin plug like you see on Laptops powering my Display. lol

All I have to do now is determine if the seller deserved negative feedback or not. I really hate doing that... But he cost me an extra 3 days of headaches and an extra hour or so of physical work today, and I'm not happy about that. Oh well the display looks beautiful and that is all that matters.

EDIT: Also, does 49C seem about right for the power supply brick to run at? That is the reading I am getting on mine. Seems kinda warm to me... but maybe that is the normal temp of them. Should have looked for a 6A model, maybe that would have run slightly cooler.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Hey just so you know. I fixed my situation, so I do not need you to check for me now. I would still like, if its easy enough for you, to check your pin outs if you can and also check to see if your outer Ground ring is actually functional on the Power Supply. The Power Supply that the Top Power guys sent me does not have a working Ground ring, its not even connected to the negative wire. The cord is just two wires going directly to the 4 pins only.
> 
> However, I cut the 4-pin connector off and then took the 2-Pin female plug and soldered it directly to the leads on the backside of the PCB. So, now I have a normal 2-pin plug like you see on Laptops powering my Display. lol
> 
> All I have to do now is determine if the seller deserved negative feedback or not. I really hate doing that... But he cost me an extra 3 days of headaches and an extra hour or so of physical work today, and I'm not happy about that. Oh well the display looks beautiful and that is all that matters.
> 
> EDIT: Also, does 49C seem about right for the power supply brick to run at? That is the reading I am getting on mine. Seems kinda warm to me... but maybe that is the normal temp of them. Should have looked for a 6A model, maybe that would have run slightly cooler.


Haha man you are way over my head here, I'm not an electronics guy








I have no idea of telling if ground ring is actually functional


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Haha man you are way over my head here, I'm not an electronics guy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have no idea of telling if ground ring is actually functional


Oh, I thought you said you could check it when you got home?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I can check it when I get home, at work at the moment. Unless someone beats me to it


??? I am confused, how can you check your pin outs if you can't check the connectors outer metal grounding ring as well? LOL


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Is there a better guide to Overclocking these Catleap type displays? Or is it just as simple as adding 96hz to the Refresh Rate? Reason I ask is because I see other rates at 59.x or 81.6, etc. What is up with the decimal numbers? Do I just put 96, or do I need something like 96.1 or 96.2 etc? lol

I have not done any research on this yet, but I would like to. I probably just need to re-read the thread again since its been a few months since the last time.


----------



## ItsIsaak

Hi, for all intensive purposes, 'new' member here (have been lurking for a fair while) but this seems like 'the' Catleap monitor thread to ask a question in, so why not.

I purchased one of the Catleap Q270 2B 'Extreme monitors from Green-sum last week (shipped to Australia), and it arrived yesterday. Upon plugging it in, I have noticed that there is artifacting and lines on the screen even when set on the default of 60Hz, let alone an overclocked refresh rate. 80Hz or more is completely untouchable without the panel going bonkers.

For a bit of an overview with hardware, I have: Gigabyte GTX 980 G1 Gaming, P8P67 Deluxe R3, i7 2600K, Corsair RM750 PSU + other required hardware like HDDs, SSD etc.

At first I thought it might have been the included cable, so I went out and bought a more expensive Belkin cable from the local store and gave it a whirl. The problem, lo & behold, was actually worse with this cable. Thinking "third time lucky", I went out again and purchased a third DVI-D Dual Link cable that was a little cheaper that ended up being on-par with the included cable and still artifacted at 60Hz.

Considering all this, I think it would be fair to assume that the monitor is DOA, am I correct in thinking so? Can I get it replaced without an extra postage cost? Am I perhaps... doing something wrong? The whole situation is frustrating, the whole reason I bought a 2B was to OC to 100ish Hz, yet this panel can't even do 60Hz.

Sorry for the lengthy post, just a little confused as to what I should be doing.

Cheers, Isaak.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Well, one you should be taking it apart and disconnecting/reconnecting both sides of the lvds cables. Also, contact Green-Sum immediately and just tell them it is DOA just in case re-seating the internal cables has no effect.

Other than that, I'm sure a few others here may have some suggestions as well. It sounds to me like a bad panel or defective electronics. Get eBay involved soon.


----------



## ItsIsaak

Already contacted Green-sum and got a copy-paste reply about compatibilty etc with a "contact us if there are further issues" at the bottom. Sent them another message with all relevant information, system specifications & pictures as evidence as a reply, have yet to get a response. Should I be taking the monitor apart to check the LVDS cables if I plan to return it for a replacement?

Here's two of the pictures I sent them, for a bit of reference on what's happening:

http://puu.sh/cNoLK.jpg http://puu.sh/cNu7Q.jpg (not sure if this forum uses BBCode/HTML tags etc, so i'll just post a link)

Cheers.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ItsIsaak*
> 
> Already contacted Green-sum and got a copy-paste reply about compatibilty etc with a "contact us if there are further issues" at the bottom. Sent them another message with all relevant information, system specifications & pictures as evidence as a reply, have yet to get a response. Should I be taking the monitor apart to check the LVDS cables if I plan to return it for a replacement?
> 
> Here's two of the pictures I sent them, for a bit of reference on what's happening:
> 
> http://puu.sh/cNoLK.jpg http://puu.sh/cNu7Q.jpg (not sure if this forum uses BBCode/HTML tags etc, so i'll just post a link)
> 
> Cheers.


No if they will replace it for sure without costing you any money, yeah go that route if you can wait. I personally would want to know if I have a loose cable inside. I noticed they are not the best of connections and one of mine came loose with the slightest of movements.

However, if your not good with stuff like that, then don't try it.


----------



## ItsIsaak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> No if they will replace it for sure without costing you any money, yeah go that route if you can wait. I personally would want to know if I have a loose cable inside. I noticed they are not the best of connections and one of mine came loose with the slightest of movements.
> 
> However, if your not good with stuff like that, then don't try it.


It's not so much that i'm not good with it, it's more that I don't want to take it apart to find the connections are fine, and them not have it accepted for replacement as I have opened it. Am I over-thinking this though? Would they take it back anyway if I didn't tell them? Dunno, i'll wait and see what the response is, then may take it apart depending on the outcome.

Many thanks for the advice and info.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ItsIsaak*
> 
> It's not so much that i'm not good with it, it's more that I don't want to take it apart to find the connections are fine, and them not have it accepted for replacement as I have opened it. Am I over-thinking this though? Would they take it back anyway if I didn't tell them? Dunno, i'll wait and see what the response is, then may take it apart depending on the outcome.
> 
> Many thanks for the advice and info.


I cant see them ever even checking to see if you opened it. Just don't leave any obvious scars that you did so. In fact, I can't imagine them preferring you to send it back without checking it. I told Green Sum the other day that I had a bad monitor from him and wanted to fix it myself and he instantly wanted to help me with tips on what to do.

Anyway, I don't want to steer you into the wrong direction, but you asked for ideas. That is the first thing that would have come to my mind to check and I wouldn't be hesitating with all the videos on how to do it. At least inspect it to see if it looks easy enough. Wouldn't it be great if a cable has pulled out a few mm, you pushed it back in and then it worked? Personally I would even re-seat the ribbon cables at the top of the TCON board. If it still does not work, get it replaced.

I wonder where all the parts are for all the monitors they have that do not work? lol


----------



## MenacingTuba

Return shipping is to expensive (100$+) to risk opening the monitor.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Is there a better guide to Overclocking these Catleap type displays? Or is it just as simple as adding 96hz to the Refresh Rate? Reason I ask is because I see other rates at 59.x or 81.6, etc. What is up with the decimal numbers? Do I just put 96, or do I need something like 96.1 or 96.2 etc? lol
> 
> I have not done any research on this yet, but I would like to. I probably just need to re-read the thread again since its been a few months since the last time.


Forget the decimals, I don't know where you got that from








Just punch in 96hz and see what happens. The method varies if you have ATI or Nvidia cards, and you probably have to tighten up your timings to reach about 96hz.
If you need a proper guide with timings etc I am sure we can dig through here and find it


----------



## ItsIsaak

Ok, reseated the internal cables without issue. I noticed something curious whilst I had the monitor apart - it actually has speakers installed, they just weren't connected to the PCB. http://puu.sh/cNMLw.jpg

From what I can see, the artifacts at 60Hz are not an issue anymore after reseating cables, but I still cannot OC to anything over 70Hz without a whole bunch of multi-coloured lines on the screen. From what i've seen, 2Bs should be able to get to at least 100Hz stable (or is this not correct?). I also haven't started the monitor up cold to see if there are artifacts at 60Hz when first turned on either, so have yet to see if it's at least usable.

I'm going to attempt a refund and see if I can buy an Overlord instead, I like the sound of them testing each monitor to at least 96Hz.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ItsIsaak*
> 
> Ok, reseated the internal cables without issue. I noticed something curious whilst I had the monitor apart - it actually has speakers installed, they just weren't connected to the PCB. http://puu.sh/cNMLw.jpg
> 
> From what I can see, the artifacts at 60Hz are not an issue anymore after reseating cables, but I still cannot OC to anything over 70Hz without a whole bunch of multi-coloured lines on the screen. From what i've seen, 2Bs should be able to get to at least 100Hz stable (or is this not correct?). I also haven't started the monitor up cold to see if there are artifacts at 60Hz when first turned on either, so have yet to see if it's at least usable.
> 
> I'm going to attempt a refund and see if I can buy an Overlord instead, I like the sound of them testing each monitor to at least 96Hz.


Yeah, try the refund route. Does Overlord have them in stock?


----------



## latprod

Not in stock at the moment, but it seems they aren't far away:

"AVAILABLE FOR PRE-ORDER - Shipping late November 2014"


----------



## aomas

Hello,

So after back and forth a lot, i can really recommend bigclothcraft shop. They delivered what they promised an TCN and 2B board and a second monitor for discounted price of 200 €.
This went up to 100hz easily, i think i might try 120hz even tho i think this is enough for me.

Now what i would like to ask, is there any possibility that the boards might not work on the "NOT 2B" monitor, and could i damage the monitor by pluggin in the wrong boards?

"second monitor has no backlight bleed and one frozen pixel"


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aomas*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> So after back and forth a lot, i can really recommend bigclothcraft shop. They delivered what they promised an TCN and 2B board and a second monitor for discounted price of 200 €.
> This went up to 100hz easily, i think i might try 120hz even tho i think this is enough for me.
> 
> Now what i would like to ask, is there any possibility that the boards might not work on the "NOT 2B" monitor, and could i damage the monitor by pluggin in the wrong boards?
> 
> "second monitor has no backlight bleed and one frozen pixel"


If the panel is a LM270WQ1, then it will work. Just make sure the input board and tcon boards match up.

Part numbers for the TCON is LM270WQ1-SLA1, and the input board is HY-2560M. This combo will work on almost all LM270WQ1 panels so long the panels TCON cover can be removed and it has the same two LVDS ribbon cables going directly to the panel at the top.

Here just watch this video TWICE.


----------



## jonathan1107

Can somebody give me some pointers? I have received my YAMAKASI Catleap q270 2b Extreme OC edition 120hz (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=111399828170&view=all&tid=1285818226001)

And I have followed the overclock instructions (from 120hz.net) and I can't get it to go further than 80hz (Stable) I can do 100hz (but I get weird Red artifacts lines and shapes when watching youtube videos... especially in dark scenes)

I used the pixel patcher and used nvidia control panel (344.48 drivers) to create a custom resolution @ 100hz with manual timings (and tried auto as well) and cannot get more than 80hz stable. I tried different timings and even bought a 24awg high quality dual link dvi cable... still no luck. Have I missed something? The only I haven't done is trying toastyx CRU utility...

I'm using a gtx 970 msi gaming 4gb


----------



## shremi

Got my board today and started to test it on my crossover so far not good do you see anything wrong i am doing ????




Edit : was testing with Intel HD I managed to move it to my desk to test with the 980 and worked... I even applied 120 hz without messing around with the trimmings but the results are promising I couldn't notice the red dots with my crossover but take this with a grain of salt since I had a poor viewing angle


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Glad I read the edit, as I was about to tell you to re-seat the LVDS ribbon cables and the LVDS DVI-to-TCON board cables. lol, but if you had it on built in GPU that would do it also.


----------



## ItsIsaak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> Can somebody give me some pointers? I have received my YAMAKASI Catleap q270 2b Extreme OC edition 120hz (http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=111399828170&view=all&tid=1285818226001)
> 
> And I have followed the overclock instructions (from 120hz.net) and I can't get it to go further than 80hz (Stable) I can do 100hz (but I get weird Red artifacts lines and shapes when watching youtube videos... especially in dark scenes)
> 
> I used the pixel patcher and used nvidia control panel (344.48 drivers) to create a custom resolution @ 100hz with manual timings (and tried auto as well) and cannot get more than 80hz stable. I tried different timings and even bought a 24awg high quality dual link dvi cable... still no luck. Have I missed something? The only I haven't done is trying toastyx CRU utility...
> 
> I'm using a gtx 970 msi gaming 4gb


I'm in the same boat, bought the same monitor and can't get it past 70Hz without lines everywhere, or red dots in darker areas from 110-120Hz (after I reseated the LVDS cables anyway, thankfully I don't see any artifacts at 60Hz anymore).

Still trying to get a refund, or perhaps replacement. I'm thinking this was possibly a dodgy batch.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ItsIsaak*
> 
> I'm in the same boat, bought the same monitor and can't get it past 70Hz without lines everywhere, or red dots in darker areas from 110-120Hz (after I reseated the LVDS cables anyway, thankfully I don't see any artifacts at 60Hz anymore).
> 
> Still trying to get a refund, or perhaps replacement. I'm thinking this was possibly a dodgy batch.


mine doesn't go an inch over 100, with supertight timings, which was a bit of a letdown, but 100hz is still good enough for me so I'm not too bothered. 70 would not be acceptable at all though


----------



## ItsIsaak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> mine doesn't go an inch over 100, with supertight timings, which was a bit of a letdown, but 100hz is still good enough for me so I'm not too bothered. 70 would not be acceptable at all though


Mind sharing your timings? I don't really understand them and want to try someone else's settings that they are stable on. Would also be great if someone could point me to a guide or the like that explains how the timings work, i'd very much appreciate it.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ItsIsaak*
> 
> Mind sharing your timings? I don't really understand them and want to try someone else's settings that they are stable on. Would also be great if someone could point me to a guide or the like that explains how the timings work, i'd very much appreciate it.


I couldn't find such a guide, so good luck with that. Just use CRU and the overclocking video on Youtube.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I couldn't find such a guide, so good luck with that. Just use CRU and the overclocking video on Youtube.


Sure there is, but you gotta search for it. There's a great deal of info over at 120hz.net. Not the most active place nowadays but still lots of good info from before.
I can't be bothered to go through the whole thing again, but here's two examples of the timings that get me to 100hz and worked up to 127 hz on the older catleap models. Seems the latest batch isn't as capable in that respect, but that's the breaks.
There's some kind of google docs spreadsheet with lots of timings over there but I couldn't find it again just now, but its there.
Now when it comes to a detailed explanation on how the timings work bla bla bla that's a different matter









here you go: The first one should work for most up to 100hz, you can try the second one if you don't get anywhere with the first.

Front Porch: 48-1
Sync Width: 32-1
Total Pixels: 2705 - 1445

Supertight timings:


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Sure there is, but you gotta search for it. There's a great deal of info over at 120hz.net.


Thanks latprod. And I am sorry I was not clear on what I meant. He specifically said he did not understand them, as I quoted below, and then said he wanted a "Guide that explained them". I then replied, "I did not find such a Guide so good luck", which I was also searching for info on. However, I found tons of info at 120hz and have been reading everything there for two months and never once came across a Guide that explains what Display Timings mean, and how exactly they work. Giving someone their settings or showing someone where the settings are located is, one thing, but making them understand what they are is an entirely different subject. lol

As far as I am concerned a "Front Porch" is what is attached to the front of my house and always has been my whole half century life







A *Guide to explaining exactly what these timings are and do*, is what I was referring to and searching for. All I ever found at 120hz or anywhere for that matter is tons of info on Overclocking you monitor, and working through various problems and errors. So maybe I missed the "Timings Guide and their Explanations"?

I already have my own working timings for most of the week, but thanks for posting your info as well, because it may help Itslsaak as well. Thanks








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ItsIsaak*
> 
> Mind sharing your timings? *I don't really understand them* and want to try someone else's settings that they are stable on. Would also be great if someone could *point me to a guide or the like that explains how the timings work*, i'd very much appreciate it.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Thanks latprod. And I am sorry I was not clear on what I meant. He specifically said he did not understand them, as I quoted below, and then said he wanted a "Guide that explained them". I then replied, "I did not find such a Guide so good luck", which I was also searching for info on. However, I found tons of info at 120hz and have been reading everything there for two months and never once came across a Guide that explains what Display Timings mean, and how exactly they work. Giving someone their settings or showing someone where the settings are located is, one thing, but making them understand what they are is an entirely different subject. lol
> 
> As far as I am concerned a "Front Porch" is what is attached to the front of my house and always has been my whole half century life
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A *Guide to explaining exactly what these timings are and do*, is what I was referring to and searching for. All I ever found at 120hz or anywhere for that matter is tons of info on Overclocking you monitor, and working through various problems and errors. So maybe I missed the "Timings Guide and their Explanations"?
> 
> I already have my own working timings for most of the week, but thanks for posting your info as well, because it may help Itslsaak as well. Thanks


I was looking for a layman's terms kind of explanation because these things tend to go over my head pretty much immediately.
This was a start... http://www.cacr.caltech.edu/~mark/sysadmin_CITA/hint/monitor-spec.html
ToastyX says front porch back porch blanking and sync width don't matter for custom resolution purposes and this certainly seems to be the case to me. I think this may be because we're (presumably) not using VGA and those values end up being calculated by the video card independently (they are dictated by the refresh rate). This is speculation on my part but the important thing to know is:
Only the Active pixels/lines and Total pixels/lines actually change anything with custom resolution tools. The others simply need to fall within an accepted ratio to one another according to VESA standards for the signal to be deemed "valid".

To help answer the actual question: things like front porch/back porch are actual millisecond pauses required for the monitor to be ready to accept the information contained in the lines and pixels that come before or after.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah, I didn't think they mattered much either, but have seen many mention that when you approach 110hz it becomes more and more necessary to tighten them. I've also seen over at 120hz that my video card should not be pushing more than a 400mhz pixel clock, or a reference to that. So, going to wait for 980 to arrive and then see if this panel responds differently. Thanks


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah, I didn't think they mattered much either, but have seen many mention that when you approach 110hz it becomes more and more necessary to tighten them. I've also seen over at 120hz that my video card should not be pushing more than a 400mhz pixel clock, or a reference to that. So, going to wait for 980 to arrive and then see if this panel responds differently. Thanks


The four timings I mentioned are delay signals which are essentially thrown out by the physical process. They really do not matter *at all* for our purposes; completely irrelevant other than needing to fit a prearranged mathematical equation, such that a+b+c=vertical total d+e+f=horizontal total. The totals are in simple speak based off of the pixel clock and sync time, so by adjusting these totals, that's the only way we can adjust the pixel clock and sync time.

"Tightening the timings" means literally making the pixel clock and sync time as low as possible.


----------



## toyopl

It's back on sale for US it seems, still nothing for Canada









http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-US-Ground-Ship-/111399826194?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item19eff27312


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

*For the 2B owners:*

Does your brightness controls on the buttons work? My Plus and Minus buttons do nothing at all. In fact, none of the buttons do anything what so ever, except for the power button. I was on the impression the brightness controls also functioned?

Would like to lower brightness a tad if possible


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> *For the 2B owners:*
> 
> Does your brightness controls on the buttons work? My Plus and Minus buttons do nothing at all. In fact, none of the buttons do anything what so ever, except for the power button. I was on the impression the brightness controls also functioned?
> 
> Would like to lower brightness a tad if possible


Mine definitely work.

Edit: for clarity-- there are two buttons to the far left that do nothing. They have a speaker icon between them. Then come the brightness controls, and finally the power button.


----------



## blued

Brightness controls work. Could be a loose connection if they dont, in which case you may have to open up the display to check/fix.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Ok thanks guys mine does not work so I will have to isolate the circuit and figure out what is wrong. Since mine is a custom DIY display I know for fact the connection is Ok. Either a bad button pcb or solder wire joints.

Edit: OK, I just realized there is missing solder on about 5 of the pins to the button pcb. Should only take a few minutes to fix. Thanks for the heads up.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Ok thanks guys mine does not work so I will have to isolate the circuit and figure out what is wrong. Since mine is a custom DIY display I know for fact the connection is Ok. Either a bad button pcb or solder wire joints.
> 
> Edit: OK, I just realized there is missing solder on about 5 of the pins to the button pcb. Should only take a few minutes to fix. Thanks for the heads up.


Y

Bummer. Mine work too.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Y
> 
> Bummer. Mine work too.


Its OK man, I am forced to take it apart, yet again, today because the power supply manufacturer finally sent me the correct power adapter. So, instead of engineering my own power delivery method, which I was actually wanting to do, but too lazy to do, I am just going to remove the temporary mod that I did last weekend which obviously requires I fire up my soldering iron.

Here is my modification work I need to undo. And below is the image of the button pcb that is not working, except for the power button. When I put this together I noticed a lack of solder on one one side of the pcb where the button connector connects, but it was ok on the back side, so I ignored it in hopes it was still OK. Lol oops...







haha...

A pic of my buttons


----------



## froggyluv

Have had a Catleap Q271 LED for maybe a year and a half and been enjoying the hell out of it. Recently Ive had problems in that it tends to flicker a colored pixel screen for a good half second -awash in the primary color of the screen I was on is the only way I know how to describe it.

At first it only happened when say, opening a sub-menu in a game but now it happens quite alot more and makes gaming very hard. Does this sound hardware related or maybe something else? I have had Microsoft Visual C++ error (just had a flash now lol) reoccurring message.

Halp


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Its OK man, I am forced to take it apart, yet again, today because the power supply manufacturer finally sent me the correct power adapter. So, instead of engineering my own power delivery method, which I was actually wanting to do, but too lazy to do, I am just going to remove the temporary mod that I did last weekend which obviously requires I fire up my soldering iron.
> 
> Here is my modification work I need to undo. And below is the image of the button pcb that is not working, except for the power button. When I put this together I noticed a lack of solder on one one side of the pcb where the button connector connects, but it was ok on the back side, so I ignored it in hopes it was still OK. Lol oops...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha...
> 
> A pic of my buttons


OK, update... Well apparently I was wrong. My brightness controls do work. I was messing around with the buttons when I noticed it started working. Not sure if pressing another button such as the Auto button gave me the brightness mode, or if I just did not notice the gradual change in brightness when trying it earlier. Its so gradual that it is easy to miss.

Or maybe messing with the buttons caused a bad connection to start working.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> OK, update... Well apparently I was wrong. My brightness controls do work. I was messing around with the buttons when I noticed it started working. Not sure if pressing another button such as the Auto button gave me the brightness mode, or if I just did not notice the gradual change in brightness when trying it earlier. Its so gradual that it is easy to miss.
> 
> Or maybe messing with the buttons caused a bad connection to start working.


I had a feeling this might be the case. The brightness shift from the controls is quite subtle. It brings up the question of what brightness setting to use for profiling. I think the standard setting is +18 clicks from lowest. No idea where I got that from though. It's something close to that if I'm wrong.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> I had a feeling this might be the case. The brightness shift from the controls is quite subtle. It brings up the question of what brightness setting to use for profiling. I think the standard setting is +18 clicks from lowest. No idea where I got that from though. It's something close to that if I'm wrong.


Yeah I had wondered if there was a certain amount of clicks we were supposed to use when using color profiles. On my Dell I am supposed to use 50% in the menu with the ICM profile I am using. However, then this IPS screen is much brighter right next to it, lol...

Anyway, here is the new On/Off switch I have chosen for this display. According to Richard at e-switch.com, it also uses the same voltage pattern for the LED colors as this display does.

Here is the color code of the PCB Button wires coming off the 2B DVI board.
Black = Common or NEG
Orange = 2.6v for Blue led mode, when display is ON.
Purple = 1.7v for Red led mode, when display is OFF.
Brown = For brightness UP.
Green = For brightness DOWN.

Each one of the momentary buttons NEG side all went to the same Black wire, including the center pin of the bi-color red/blue LED. Could not ask for a simpler design, so it will be childs play to mod the new much more aesthetically pleasing on/off button in.


----------



## twokdavey

Has anyone had problems with their computer slowly fading into black? Here is a youtube video that has my exact problem. The longer I let it rest ( red light) and when i turn it on it lasts a few seconds longer than when i immediately turn it on it immediately fades to black. the times last anywhere from 30 seconds to 3 minutes from a *cold start*.






I have tried different cables. computer rigs. power outlets. I have checked the power brick (running fine). Its not running hot. I checked the inside pcb for the capacitors ( no gunk or anything). I am running out of ideas on what to check for. I bought this on ebay over a year ago, never had problems with it till now. I really do not want to give up this monitor, I love it so much!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Edit: would buying this pcb just fix the problem?

http://emaxeon.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=59&product_id=50


----------



## falcon2081

It could very well be the pcb board is dying. Mine did something of that nature too and within 2 days the board was dead. I got the emaxeon kit. Took about 2 weeks to get to me. No issues at all with it and I have my monitor overclocked to 94hz. I've had the the board since September.


----------



## toyopl

Yamakasi Catleap 2B OC *$299*
Well the price keeps going lower, too bad they cannot post one that would ship to Canada at that price.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111399826194?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toyopl*
> 
> Yamakasi Catleap 2B OC *$299*
> Well the price keeps going lower, too bad they cannot post one that would ship to Canada at that price.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/111399826194?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Official-Dealer-YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-2560x1440-120Hz-PC-Monitor-/141016682918?pt=Computer_Monitors&hash=item20d53fd1a6

this one does.


----------



## WallySimmonds

They were at $329US a few weeks ago. Wonder if they'll get back down there again..


----------



## Grirvan

I got my first Catleap just this week. I had my first experience overclocking with my new Catleap monitor. I amazed how easy it went. With no previous experience I overclocked to 120hz and 100hz, but in games 95hz seemed to be the sweet spot with no lines on the screen. I have calibrated color using calibration within Windows 7 and honestly it is beautiful. The only concern I have is that using the UFO Blur Buster test site, the refresh rate says 67hz, but my monitor setting within Windows, NVIDIA Control Panel and dxdiag clearly state 95hz. Also all my games have the 95hz available and enabled. Can anyone advise on this discrepancy?


----------



## electro2u

Some browsers can't handle high refresh rates. Chrome works best for ufo test. Also, I think in Windows 7 you have to have transparency enabled or some such nonsense.

I've started running my Catleap at 60Hz on the desktop because it's been freaking out when I turn it on after it's been asleep for a while every now and then. Had it at 120Hz for 6 months.


----------



## FlashFir

FYI: the overclockable versions are back on sale! $300!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111399826194

Will this run it?
nForce 9200 (desktop on Aspire x3400) + "Active Dual-DVI Link Adapter" (HDMI to DVI) - I have one of these adapters that works with my work laptop but I can't find max supported resolution for the nForce 9200.

I'm asking to make sure that with an active adapter we can output to the monitor otherwise we'd have an extra one of these. I guess another way to put it:

Has anyone ever heard of someone buying the adapter and it NOT working? What caused those incidents to fail?


----------



## Parablank

so what's the verdict on these 120hz versions of the Catleaps versus X-Star/Qnix PLS monitors? I've been looking to pick an overclockable 2560x1440 monitor and with so many different manufacturers/versions of the monitors it's kind of confusing

If anybody could help me with this that would be great thanks


----------



## Grirvan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Parablank*
> 
> so what's the verdict on these 120hz versions of the Catleaps versus X-Star/Qnix PLS monitors? I've been looking to pick an overclockable 2560x1440 monitor and with so many different manufacturers/versions of the monitors it's kind of confusing
> 
> If anybody could help me with this that would be great thanks


I just received my Catleap from that exact link last week. The monitor arrived in less than 5 business days and the entire seller/buyer transaction was perfect. The monitor has been flawless. No dead pixels, no problems. I have found my sweet spot to be 95hz. I am a big PC gamer (Call of Duty series and racing titles) and this monitor for me is amazing.


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Parablank*
> 
> so what's the verdict on these 120hz versions of the Catleaps versus X-Star/Qnix PLS monitors? I've been looking to pick an overclockable 2560x1440 monitor and with so many different manufacturers/versions of the monitors it's kind of confusing
> 
> If anybody could help me with this that would be great thanks


I own both Its a toss up especial since these things only do 100hz now. My catleap only does 100hz and most of the ones shipping this last 2 months have been the same. The Qnix on the other hand is much smoother at 120hz. If you want great colors I would go with Catleap if you need speed for gaming go with QNIX. I can't really decide which is better.


----------



## UNOE

For past few months I been making some custom color profiles some of them really look really good. I just stumbled upon the ICC profile called "native" in the op. This native profile blows away all the profiles I had prior to this. And I think I have some really good ones. Reading is much more clear. My custom profiles have very accurate color but they all fall short on light grey's to whites this is were the native profile blows the other profiles out of the water. It make reading text much clearer. Also icons or file exploring is so much more clean looking.

I'm at 100hz with native profile.


----------



## Grirvan

UNOE could you upload that profile? I would like to give it a try. I do not see a "native" profile within my profile options.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Isn't that easily available on the first post of this thread? That's where I downloaded it from.


----------



## Grirvan

Sorry about that. Yes it is. Thanks.


----------



## Blunc

I need some help with a used q270 I recently acquired.

It looks great when I first turn the computer/monitor on then after about five minutes the screen does this little jitter and looks okay for a few seconds then happens again. It doesn't seem to matter what I am doing on the computer. I have left it at the default settings and the GPU is a Radeon 6850 with a brand new dual-DVI cable.

This keeps happening at shorter intervals until it happens continually and the screen/text is unreadable.

Can anyone tell me if this is an interior cable issue or will I need to replace caps or chips on the control board?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blunc*
> 
> I need some help with a used q270 I recently acquired.
> 
> It looks great when I first turn the computer/monitor on then after about five minutes the screen does this little jitter and looks okay for a few seconds then happens again. It doesn't seem to matter what I am doing on the computer. I have left it at the default settings and the GPU is a Radeon 6850 with a brand new dual-DVI cable.
> 
> This keeps happening at shorter intervals until it happens continually and the screen/text is unreadable.
> 
> Can anyone tell me if this is an interior cable issue or will I need to replace caps or chips on the control board?


There is no telling what the issue is just by that description alone. It could either be the TCON board, the panel itself or the DVI bypass board going bad. It could even be the new cable you have.

Your only option that I see at this time is trying another DVI cable first, since that is the easiest option to start with. If it still does it then I see no other option then to try a new PCB kit for it.

However, if you do decide to try a new kit, I would only install one item at a time, cables, tcon, dvi board, in order to try and figure out what it was that was going bad. Otherwise you replace all components and have no clue what it was and thus have to consider all of it bad.

That is what I would be doing, if the screen itself is worth it.


----------



## FlashFir

I'm stuck trying to figure out how to get the bottom tab to be released... nevermind you PULL it apart not "LIFT" like the OP says.


----------



## latprod

Hi guys, still struggling with game flickering when using anything but the default 60hz resolution. I have no problems anywhere else but in-game. If i have my 100hz resolution enabled the game flickers like mad (most recently in far cry 4 and assassins creed unity). I never had this problem with my old Qnix. I'm running the latest drivers from Nvidia (two 780 TI's in SLI). I just can't understand why this happens. What's the point of an overclocked monitor if you can't use it?


----------



## Blunc

thanx for the reply.

I feel if it was the brand new cable then it would have the problem all the time...not wait till it had warmed up.

can you tell me if the PCB kits are just a replacement for the PCB's or are they a set of the proper capacitors to change out?


----------



## cutty1998

Well ,I just took the "leap" & ordered a Catleap OC extreme model on Amazon for $299.I hope I don't get a lemon! Hopefully finally get my 980 a little workout,as 1080P seems to be a cakewalk for the card.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Well ,I just took the "leap" & ordered a Catleap OC extreme model on Amazon for $299.I hope I don't get a lemon! Hopefully finally get my 980 a little workout,as 1080P seems to be a cakewalk for the card.


Wow. Never seen them on Amazon before... wonder how long that's been there.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hi guys, still struggling with game flickering when using anything but the default 60hz resolution. I have no problems anywhere else but in-game. If i have my 100hz resolution enabled the game flickers like mad (most recently in far cry 4 and assassins creed unity). I never had this problem with my old Qnix. I'm running the latest drivers from Nvidia (two 780 TI's in SLI). I just can't understand why this happens. What's the point of an overclocked monitor if you can't use it?


Did you ever try different cables?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Did you ever try different cables?


Not on this particular monitor, never had a problem on the qnix.
Seems it is related to SLI as well, since disabling SLI also alleviates the problems.
So could be a weird SLI/refresh rate combination that's causing it.
Gonna try a new cable, just to be sure, and maybe replace my SLI bridge or something.
Weird, Fifa 15 has no issues, but most other games flicker like crazy


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Not on this particular monitor, never had a problem on the qnix.
> Seems it is related to SLI as well, since disabling SLI also alleviates the problems.
> So could be a weird SLI/refresh rate combination that's causing it.
> Gonna try a new cable, just to be sure, and maybe replace my SLI bridge or something.
> Weird, Fifa 15 has no issues, but most other games flicker like crazy


There were SLI bridges that had problems with flickering at 1440p over 60hz. Do you have a EVGA pro bridge ? It happens with 4k too. You need a reworked bridge the new pro bridges have the rework.


----------



## Abadaman

Can anyone test if this monitor uses PWM? Just point ur phone camera (the one which takes photos works best) @ the monitor screen, does it flicker? Use brightness lower than 100percent....please, someone who bought one from green-sum test this


----------



## electro2u

Mine is pwm free at 110nits but these things change from time to time based on production considerations the manufacturer may make the choice to use pwm. Early Catleap units had extremely slow and thus bad pwm.

The basic cell phone flicker test that benq promotes isn't exactly proof of pwm being used or not used.

From tftcentral:
An easy method of measuring the PWM frequency of a backlight would be ideal, and luckily it can be done using only a camera which allows manual control of the shutter speed. Instructions are as follows:

Set the monitor to the desired settings for testing.
(Optional) Set the camera white balance by getting a reading off the screen while displaying only white. If not possible, then manually set the white balance to about 6000K.
Display a single vertical thin white line on a black background on the monitor (1-3 pixels wide should be fine). The image should be the only thing visible. Here is an example you may wish to save and use, show it full screen on your monitor.
Set the camera to use a shutter speed of 1/2 to 1/25 of a second. You may need to set the ISO sensitivity and aperture in order to capture enough light. Make sure the line is in focus at the distance you are holding it (lock the focus if needed).
Hold the camera about 2 feet in front of the monitor and perpendicular to (looking straight at) the front. Press the shutter button as you slowly move it horizontally across the screen (remaining perpendicular). You may need to experiment with moving the camera at different speeds.
Post-processing:
Adjust the captured image brightness so that the pattern is easily visible.
Count the number of cycles visible in the captured image.
Multiply this count by the inverse of the shutter speed. For example, if using a shutter speed of 1/25 of a second and 7 cycles are counted, then the number of cycles per second is 25 * 7 = 175Hz. This is the backlight cycle frequency.


----------



## Abadaman

I am thinking of buying this monitor as the price dropped again, but am sensitive to pwm, so i wonder if they use pwm as qnixes do nowadays, any1 can test?


----------



## Abadaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Mine is pwm free at 110nits but these things change from time to time based on production considerations the manufacturer may make the choice to use pwm. Early Catleap units had extremely slow and thus bad pwm.
> 
> The basic cell phone flicker test that benq promotes isn't exactly proof of pwm being used or not used.
> 
> From tftcentral:
> An easy method of measuring the PWM frequency of a backlight would be ideal, and luckily it can be done using only a camera which allows manual control of the shutter speed. Instructions are as follows:
> 
> Set the monitor to the desired settings for testing.
> (Optional) Set the camera white balance by getting a reading off the screen while displaying only white. If not possible, then manually set the white balance to about 6000K.
> Display a single vertical thin white line on a black background on the monitor (1-3 pixels wide should be fine). The image should be the only thing visible. Here is an example you may wish to save and use, show it full screen on your monitor.
> Set the camera to use a shutter speed of 1/2 to 1/25 of a second. You may need to set the ISO sensitivity and aperture in order to capture enough light. Make sure the line is in focus at the distance you are holding it (lock the focus if needed).
> Hold the camera about 2 feet in front of the monitor and perpendicular to (looking straight at) the front. Press the shutter button as you slowly move it horizontally across the screen (remaining perpendicular). You may need to experiment with moving the camera at different speeds.
> Post-processing:
> Adjust the captured image brightness so that the pattern is easily visible.
> Count the number of cycles visible in the captured image.
> Multiply this count by the inverse of the shutter speed. For example, if using a shutter speed of 1/25 of a second and 7 cycles are counted, then the number of cycles per second is 25 * 7 = 175Hz. This is the backlight cycle frequency.


I dont know why, but from my experience (had two qnixes matte, xstar glossy, benq bl2710pt, eizo EV2736WF, Benq BL3200pt) pwm test using phone camera(for taking photos, not videos) works great, when it flickers, it uses PWM, when it doesnt flicker=no pwm. I am looking for a pwm free monitor with low input lag that can oc and this yamakasi 2b looks great, i just cant find any info regarding PWM on this monitor nowadays. Can someone test this? just put ur phone cam at ur monitor and watch it, does it flicker? any1?


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> There were SLI bridges that had problems with flickering at 1440p over 60hz. Do you have a EVGA pro bridge ? It happens with 4k too. You need a reworked bridge the new pro bridges have the rework.


Wow, this is all news to me. Pro Bridges? rework? How do i know which ones to go for then? do you have ebay links or whatever?
Thanks alot for this by the way, I had no idea that the problem was known to others out there


----------



## UNOE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Wow, this is all news to me. Pro Bridges? rework? How do i know which ones to go for then? do you have ebay links or whatever?
> Thanks alot for this by the way, I had no idea that the problem was known to others out there


I don't know how to confirm which bridges don't suffer the issue. But I know there are some that do suffer the issue. What bridge are you currently using?


----------



## cutty1998

My Catleap Extreme OC 2 was supposed to have been delivered on Fri,but I tracked it to California,hoping for Mon-tues now. I am giving it to my Son as a Christmas gift to replace a BenQ XL2420TX 120Hz TN (which is the best built monitor I have ever seen by far). Just wondering , if I end up with a decent panel ,with not too many stuck pixels,and not too much lightbleed, will there be a noticeable visual improvement in games like League of Legends? Or I am hoping it will greatly enhance his gaming experiences & for for general web browsing,and non-FPS gaming , that he is blown away by the difference. I still will OC it ,so hoping for a decent frame rate with a OC'd GTX980. I have never seen a 1440P IPS panel in action besides my Brother's Imac and it looks gorgeous. Cant wait to hook this thing up and tweak it!


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *UNOE*
> 
> I don't know how to confirm which bridges don't suffer the issue. But I know there are some that do suffer the issue. What bridge are you currently using?


I'm just using the stock Asus one that came with my motherboard.
It worked fine with my qnix at 110hz so it's weird that it should be causing all these problems with my catleap. But whatever, I've ordered a cheap different one just to try, and if that doesn't work then I guess I can try to track down a new Evga Pro


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> I'm just using the stock Asus one that came with my motherboard.
> It worked fine with my qnix at 110hz so it's weird that it should be causing all these problems with my catleap. But whatever, I've ordered a cheap different one just to try, and if that doesn't work then I guess I can try to track down a new Evga Pro


That EVGA pro bridge is gorgeous. Ive seen them on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=EVGA+pro+SLI+bridge Cant wait to get a second 980 and go back to SLI again. Definitely will try that bridge. I just hope my Cat works well with a single GTX 980.


----------



## ItsIsaak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> My Catleap Extreme OC 2 was supposed to have been delivered on Fri,but I tracked it to California,hoping for Mon-tues now. I am giving it to my Son as a Christmas gift to replace a BenQ XL2420TX 120Hz TN (which is the best built monitor I have ever seen by far). Just wondering , if I end up with a decent panel ,with not too many stuck pixels,and not too much lightbleed, will there be a noticeable visual improvement in games like League of Legends? Or I am hoping it will greatly enhance his gaming experiences & for for general web browsing,and non-FPS gaming , that he is blown away by the difference. I still will OC it ,so hoping for a decent frame rate with a OC'd GTX980. I have never seen a 1440P IPS panel in action besides my Brother's Imac and it looks gorgeous. Cant wait to hook this thing up and tweak it!


When you receive your 2B, would you mind mentioning whether or not you can OC it to 100Hz or above? My 2B from green-sum won't do above 65Hz, so i'm wondering whether I just happened to receive a bad monitor, or perhaps it was part of a bad batch.


----------



## prozerran

I bought a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 "Extreme OC 2B" from green-sum on ebay a week ago, I have the same problem. Could only OC to 65hz. I have GTX970 running in SLI. I already emailed him. He said that graphic card is not listed as "supported" for OC. Which is some BS. Going to be returning it soon.


----------



## Hokies83

Sup guys long time no see.

Anywho I'll get right to the point I sold my Catleap q270 today and buyer states it's not displaying anything however it powers on just fine.

I got all of the PC world awhile back so I cannot test it myself however last time I used it about 3 months ago it worked like a champ.

But did stay powered on for 3 months not hooked to a gpu.... Im figured maybe something needs reset or something any thoughts ? Thx !


----------



## Blackfyre

Hi,

I have one of the first Q270's when they first came out on Ebay... IT only accepts Dual-Link DVI - it overclocks to 65Hz (clearly not 2B)...

Anyway it has served me well and it has been amazing so far... I want to play PS4 games however and was wondering if there exists a HDMI TO Dual-Link DVI converter that would actually work? Because I kept reading something along the lines of "they don't support higher than 1080p and most of them are BS".


----------



## ItsIsaak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *prozerran*
> 
> I bought a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 "Extreme OC 2B" from green-sum on ebay a week ago, I have the same problem. Could only OC to 65hz. I have GTX970 running in SLI. I already emailed him. He said that graphic card is not listed as "supported" for OC. Which is some BS. Going to be returning it soon.


I have a GTX 980, perhaps it's the new Maxwell cards that don't play ball. Can anyone else with a GTX 970/980 OC to an acceptable level (100Hz or so) with a 2B? I don't have another card to test the monitor on aside from a GT 440.


----------



## electro2u

My 980 runs my Catleap at 120Hz without issue.


----------



## cutty1998

I'm torn. I have a Catleap 2B in my hands, wondering if I should post it for sale ,and jump on the new Qnix OC version with swivel stand . http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1PB2467 . I feel like I waited too long for the Catleap. Is this Qnix leaps & bounds better than the Cat? If so ,I am buying now ,and will sell my Cat .


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> I'm torn. I have a Catleap 2B in my hands, wondering if I should post it for sale ,and jump on the new Qnix OC version with swivel stand . http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA4JH1PB2467 . I feel like I waited too long for the Catleap. Is this Qnix leaps & bounds better than the Cat? If so ,I am buying now ,and will sell my Cat .


It's in fact leaps and bounds worse than the Catleap. First off, it doesn't OC above 85 hz (best case) without frameskipping, this has been established as 100% sure at the qnix and x-star thread . Secondly, the panel is inferior. Thirdly, the input lag is far worse since it has no bypass board.
I would stay far away from it.


----------



## cutty1998

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> It's in fact leaps and bounds worse than the Catleap. First off, it doesn't OC above 85 hz (best case) without frameskipping, this has been established as 100% sure at the qnix and x-star thread . Secondly, the panel is inferior. Thirdly, the input lag is far worse since it has no bypass board.
> I would stay far away from it.


Thanks very much .Glad I didn't grab one. Hoping I got a decent Yamakasi.


----------



## latprod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Thanks very much .Glad I didn't grab one. Hoping I got a decent Yamakasi.


good luck. The only reason you'd want one of the "true 10 multi bla bla bla" is if you want to connect display port or hdmi units to it.
Apart from that, the Catleap wins in all departments


----------



## kylesback91

Does anyone know if the GTX 970 is cable of powering the Catleap above say 70Hz I have mine at a fairly stable 68hz with the occasional line for a split second when a dark purple hits the screen. I've put my old gtx 780 in and I was able to get about 90hz on it for a mostly stable OC. So either my monitor is just not capable of OC or the GTX 970 is just not compatible any ideas ?


----------



## ImLovely

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kylesback91*
> 
> Does anyone know if the GTX 970 is cable of powering the Catleap above say 70Hz I have mine at a fairly stable 68hz with the occasional line for a split second when a dark purple hits the screen. I've put my old gtx 780 in and I was able to get about 90hz on it for a mostly stable OC. So either my monitor is just not capable of OC or the GTX 970 is just not compatible any ideas ?


I would also like to know if the GTX 970 is compatible with overlocking a Yamasaki Catleap to 120hz as I was planning to buy both for my gaming PC. Looks like a few people on the last couple of pages have had issues...


----------



## electro2u

I can't see why the 980 would work and not the 970... But all I can report is that my 980 does 120hz on my catleap fine. It seems like the cheaper versions that are available now are different somehow from the ones that were selling for 600 last year, which is what I paid.

The cable used may play a role.


----------



## caramur

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ImLovely*
> 
> I would also like to know if the GTX 970 is compatible with overlocking a Yamasaki Catleap to 120hz as I was planning to buy both for my gaming PC. Looks like a few people on the last couple of pages have had issues...


Running at 120hz right now with a 970. Getting about the same amount of scan lines as my 7850 did. Using stock DVI cable.


----------



## electro2u

My Catleap was running perfectly at 120Hz 24/7 for about 7 months. This past month it started fritzing out at startup for about 5-10 seconds if I left it on 120Hz. If I let it warm up for 5-10 minutes and switch to 120Hz it's fine. Any ideas which component is going bad?


----------



## Shadowarez

Damn these are pricey I thought idea of getting these imports were to be not wallet busting I seen a few Yamakasi Catleap
In the $2200 range down to $690 is there a certain one I should consider dislike my current qnix zero Oc stability above 60hz some of these are $1300 more then asus swift dang.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Damn these are pricey I thought idea of getting these imports were to be not wallet busting I seen a few Yamakasi Catleap
> In the $2200 range down to $690 is there a certain one I should consider dislike my current qnix zero Oc stability above 60hz some of these are $1300 more then asus swift dang.



http://www.ebay.com/itm/Official-Dealer-YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-2560x1440-120Hz-PC-Monitor-/141016682918$359
http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAKASI-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-2560x1440-PC-Monitor-US-Ground-Ship-/111399826194$320 US shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-IPS-2560x1440-120Hz-Monitor-/111399828170$519 Perfect Pixel

I do not know why GreenSum's prices are so volatile. I paid $600 for a Perfect Pixel last year and I love the thing, but read above, after 7 months I started having a slight problem and I'm looking into a PG278Q Swift. Mine did come with 1 stuck pixel near the bezel and I got a slight discount from GreenSum for that.

I have not seen a single person who got a cheaper Catleap recently ($300-400) say they could get a good overclock. No idea what they are doing over there but these are definitely a gamble.


----------



## Shadowarez

Seen a few in the $2300 range that's kinda crazy those made with some new space age NASA stuff?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Seen a few in the $2300 range that's kinda crazy those made with some new space age NASA stuff?


I'm not sure why those come up like that every so often, I think it's because the auction price resets every 6 months or something to an older price, or maybe it's for shipping to Antarctica


----------



## Shadowarez

I wouldn't doubt it I can't order from Newegg the case for my rig woulda cost $955 from them so I went with best buy got it for $320.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shadowarez*
> 
> Seen a few in the $2300 range that's kinda crazy those made with some new space age NASA stuff?


No, its not new space age stuff, its just the included cost to ship each one to Mars. The humans go later I think...


----------



## electro2u

Skorp, you have any suggestions for why my monitor fritzes out when it's powered on cold (after being shut off over night for example)? If I leave it at 120Hz and start it up cold, most of the screen stays black and I get a picture just up at the very top with sort of flashing going off from top of the illuminated portion to the end of just that little strip and then back again, until maybe 10 seconds later the rest of the screen comes on and then it's good to go. For the rest of the day it wont happen again unless I let it get cold. Trying to decide what part to replace. Never opened one of these suckers up before...

If I leave it at 60Hz at night, theres no issue at startup the next day.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Skorp, you have any suggestions for why my monitor fritzes out when it's powered on cold (after being shut off over night for example)? If I leave it at 120Hz and start it up cold, most of the screen stays black and I get a picture just up at the very top with sort of flashing going off from top of the illuminated portion to the end of just that little strip and then back again, until maybe 10 seconds later the rest of the screen comes on and then it's good to go. For the rest of the day it wont happen again unless I let it get cold. Trying to decide what part to replace. Never opened one of these suckers up before...
> 
> If I leave it at 60Hz at night, theres no issue at startup the next day.


I don't know, your guess is as good as mine I would say. However, don't turn it off and use 60hz for desktop and 120hz for gaming only. Try dropping it to 110 as 110 is probably just as good I think.

Also, some of the guys at several websites said that 120hz should be slowly moved up to, not quickly from an off state. So maybe all you need to do is learn how your display wants you to treat it, lol... seriously though


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I don't know, your guess is as good as mine I would say. However, don't turn it off and use 60hz for desktop and 120hz for gaming only. Try dropping it to 110 as 110 is probably just as good I think.
> 
> Also, some of the guys at several websites said that 120hz should be slowly moved up to, not quickly from an off state. So maybe all you need to do is learn how your display wants you to treat it, lol... seriously though


Gotcha. I appreciate the response very much. +1

I'll limp along with it. One thing is that I don't actually game much and I actually really really enjoy 120Hz while browsing. Smooth scrolling like on a smart phone is a must have on the desktop imo.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Gotcha. I appreciate the response very much. +1
> 
> I'll limp along with it. One thing is that I don't actually game much and I actually really really enjoy 120Hz while browsing. Smooth scrolling like on a smart phone is a must have on the desktop imo.


Well try 96hz for desktop then and 120 only when gaming. Also, smooth scrolling? Isn't that something the mouse drivers would do for you if you install them from the manufacturer? Almost all smartphones run at 60hz, only a few can go above that, so smooth scrolling is probably a software feature.

By the way, if you leave the monitor on just cover up the blue blinking light so you don't go crazy.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Well try 96hz for desktop then and 120 only when gaming. Also, smooth scrolling? Isn't that something the mouse drivers would do for you if you install them from the manufacturer? Almost all smartphones run at 60hz, only a few can go above that, so smooth scrolling is probably a software feature.
> 
> By the way, if you leave the monitor on just cover up the blue blinking light so you don't go crazy.


Scrolling gets smoother with higher refresh rates. Same as gaming.

My blinking light is yellow... weird.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Scrolling gets smoother with higher refresh rates. Same as gaming.
> 
> My blinking light is yellow... weird.


Well I dont have a Yamakasi, so that is probably why mine is blue, lol...


----------



## electro2u

I use LightDims lol
http://www.lightdims.com/


----------



## moose517

Does anybody have boards from their catleap they would be willing to sell when they went to OC boards? i've got a monitor thats got a black bar right down the middle of the screen about an inch wide, i know the panel itself is fine i just think the controller is going out. And a second that won't turn on at all due to bad boards. I'd appreciate it.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *moose517*
> 
> Does anybody have boards from their catleap they would be willing to sell when they went to OC boards? i've got a monitor thats got a black bar right down the middle of the screen about an inch wide, i know the panel itself is fine i just think the controller is going out. And a second that won't turn on at all due to bad boards. I'd appreciate it.


The OC board kits you purchase is the same as the boards being replaced, at least on the catleaps. So, if anyone has a board it is because it was going bad just like yours. Only the multi-port versions may have working boards that someone might have replaced for an OC kit, which is probably what you were inquiring about.

I have the original DisplayPort TCON board out of a HP Z1 Monitor (same panel, just premium grade A+ quality). I'm keeping it just in case the overclock kit ever dies on me. The DisplayPort input boards can be found on ebay all day long, but these TCON boards would be impossible to find.

You sure its not the TCON board? The link above will send you to a ebay seller who ships boards that will work IF you have a specific type of TCON board, which is found on most 2560x1440 IPS monitors. If you take a close up picture of your TCON, he will tell you if his board will work or not, it is just a matter of pin count and connector type. It is ONLY DisplayPort and has zero extra features, other then dimming, but will get you back a working monitor, so long your TCON board is healthy.

Good luck...









EDIT: I can also show you a picture of my TCON (Timing Controller) board so you can compare with yours. Look below, that is my original TCON boards connector before I removed it from my panel. If your connector looks similar or exact, then contact that ebay seller because chances are his board will work. Then you only need to figure out how to install it. lol


----------



## Michaelo

Digital timing can become problematic with temperature changes (negative or positive) especially when operating at extremes... Some components are more stable at low temperatures, while others may become unstable... Every component is affected by temperature to some degree (pun intended







)...

As we are talking about a timing board, we must assume it has a master clock reference (oscillator) and the crystal in this circuit is affected to such a degree that the board no longer functions as intended...

*Crystal Oven*
Many precision devices house the crystal in polystyrene enclosure and include a simple heater element using resistor/thermistor combination to ensure a fixed temperature, this greatly improves stability and ensure accuracy in such devices as precision digital counters...

The very existence of such a circuits tells us that crystals may be unstable at low temperatures to such a degree that the device may not function correctly... kinda like what we have here...

Well that my first guess and can be tested if you've got a hear dryer handy next time it doesn't start properly... Simply blow warm air at the board for twenty second or so before powering on... If it works, you can set about fixing the problem...

Mike


----------



## TheInternal

dumb question that I've been unable to easily find an answer to...

The Yamakasi 2703 LED IPS monitor.... is it overclockable, or is that just the Q models that are?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheInternal*
> 
> dumb question that I've been unable to easily find an answer to...
> 
> The Yamakasi 2703 LED IPS monitor.... is it overclockable, or is that just the Q models that are?


Not advisable. 2703 is going to be technically overclockable but will not have the 2B board.

Q270 2B OC is the only way to go and its a lottery on the PWM status and overclockability.


----------



## TheInternal

good to know. thanks.


----------



## moose517

yeah i've got the single connection going to the one board at the top of the panels, i tried switching them and instead broke one entire and the other now has more purty colors







Guess i need to see if i can find entire replacement packages, i know the panels are good as they both displayed he same black bar so i'm certain thats one of the boards. What sellers have both boards? both the input and the one at the top of the panel that the two separate half PCB's connect to? Otherwise i'm gonna throw these cheap ****ers in the trash and buy soemthing else.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

*EDIT: Proven to be fake!*

G-Sync on Yamakasi?

Does anyone here have a new NVIDIA graphics card? Just wondering who here has tried these modified drivers for to enable G-Sync on your Yamakasi with a displayport input? Is this real?

http://gamenab.net/2015/01/24/nvidia-g-sync-hack-working-on-every-monitor/

Also read this about Nivdia lying about G-Sync
http://gamenab.net/2015/01/26/truth-about-the-g-sync-marketing-module-nvidia-using-vesa-adaptive-sync-technology-freesync

*EDIT: Proven to be fake!*


----------



## EvaNeT

i Everyone,

I recently got obtained two Dual Korean 1440p DVI-D Monitors.
"YAMAKASI Q270 "2B Extreme OC" IPS 2560x1440 120Hz PC Monitor" to be specific.

I'm do not have a video card that can currently support these monitors.

I'm looking to buy a video card:

I'm wondering if I can buy a single GTX980 and have a working dual monitor setup with the good stuff like the 120hz.
Heres what the bottom "might" look like:

http://images.bit-tech.net/content_images/2014/09/nvidi...

Or am I forced to get two videoscard, (maybe GTX970) and put them into a SLI formation to obtain the dual monitors.

Please let me know









Thanks!!!


----------



## electro2u

Need two nvidia cards. I would strongly advise against over clocking with AMD cards. Nvidia is the way to go. I would also strongly advise against sli 970s. Recent discoveries about segmented ram on the 970s seems to be the explanation for sli problems above 3.5gb ram usage.


----------



## EvaNeT

Thank you Electro2u!

What about all those DisplayPort on the back. None of those would be useful?

With regards to the 970's, I saw this post: http://www.pcworld.com/article/2876802/nvidia-plans-geforce-gtx-970-driver-update-for-memory-performance-concerns.html . I wonder if that would fix things.

If you do not recommend sli 970s, what would you recommend?


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EvaNeT*
> 
> Thank you Electro2u!
> 
> What about all those DisplayPort on the back. None of those would be useful?
> 
> With regards to the 970's, I saw this post: http://www.pcworld.com/article/2876802/nvidia-plans-geforce-gtx-970-driver-update-for-memory-performance-concerns.html . I wonder if that would fix things.
> 
> If you do not recommend sli 970s, what would you recommend?


You know what? I'm wrong. SLI can use just 1 card for multi-monitor setup. The only issue is that for the Catleaps you'll need an *active* miniDisplay Port to DVI adapter to run both the monitors off one card. I would suggest a single 980 for that now that I've had my coffee. Of course... 2 would be much better and eliminates the need for the active adapter, which tend to be expensive (70-100$). And as long as you can keep your VRAM usage below 3.5GB 2x970s is probably best. Sorry for misleading you.


----------



## EvaNeT

Okay, So I'm going to pull the trigger on this video card...

1 x GTX 980 should be able to support both of these monitors in a dual monitor formation + full 1440p + overclocking.
+with an *active* mini-DP or DP to DVI adapter.

^
Can someone confirm that above statement?


----------



## EvaNeT

Modified drivers for to enable G-Sync proven to be fake? Where did you see this?

I've poked around google and didn't find anything









EDIT:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1538208/nvidia-g-sync-free-on-dp-1-2-monitors/10


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah, the guys at Overclock.net, PCPer, GPU-Z, and many other sites have looked at the drivers and nothing has been modified, even though the guy at the website says it has been. He has not shown any evidence, only a video that could easily be doctored/edited to make it look like it works.

If the author is sincere then he will push forward and prove its not fake eventually, but he is already giving up and says he does not care what people believe. But the real reason he does not care is because he knows he is wrong (its the only logical explanation). If he was telling the truth, then he would be working MUCH harder to prove it, not giving in only a few days later.

Sorry I posted about it in here, but I was excited to see it when I first read his claims.


----------



## tinklepee

Hey guys I have a question.

How do I go about setting up dual monitors with two Catleap Q270 SE (only dual link dvi input)?

I have a 7970 which only has 1 dual link dvi port, an hdmi port, and a displayport. Is it possible to use an HDMI to dual link DVI adapter? If it works would it be capable of displaying 1440p?


----------



## electro2u

^Must be *active* adapter.


----------



## EvaNeT

Update:

So I bought:

2 x YAMAKASI Q270 "2B Extreme OC" IPS 2560x1440 120Hz PC Monitor
1 x Geforce GTX 980.
1 x Active DisplayPort to DVI-D Adapter (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004071ZX0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Result?

Only one of the two monitors can be used. The second monitor does not seem to be getting detected through Display Port.

Any ideas?


----------



## electro2u

It's single link =( need dual link
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DisplayPort-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00A493CNY


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Should have got a 980 with two DVI ports if you were are planning on using them on DVI only monitors. Dual Link mode active adapters are VERY expensive.


----------



## electro2u

I didn't think there were any but the gigabyte does. Could get that instead. Have a 980 and it only has 1 dvi so jut assumed. I'm fired.


----------



## EvaNeT

BLAH! That's really upsetting.

Okay,

Dell BIZLINK DisplayPort to DVI Dual Link Adapter USB Powered - XT625 / CN-0XT625
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XYBA72/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=
$59.00 Eligible for free shipping with Amazon Prime.

Bought, Ready to go!


----------



## Feyris

I was wondering if it was possible to change board on DVI only catleap to DVI/HDMI etc. Because i need a monitor with hdmi to take overseas or if there was a cable that made HDMI go to audio/display for it ide love that EVEN MORE


----------



## emsj86

Our these monitors still worth it? I have my eyes on 2b extreme 340 on newegg , qnix 270 same price on newegg and the Asus pb278q for 420. Our these monitors lasting and would it be worth it over the Asus sorry for the ?s just been reading so many things and literally just getting confused figur better to hear it from the horses mouth how it works and looks. Thanks


----------



## pvp309rcp

Sharing my experience with purchasing three Yamakasi Catleap 2703 refurbished monitors from green-sum. What lead me to get these was that overclocking any Korean monitor seemed to be random in terms of results. With that said...I don't plan on overclocking them to avoid any incompatible refresh rates while making sure these monitors last me for a long time.

All the monitors had no dead pixels but one of them seemed to have a yellow/brown tint which was very noticeable on a pure white photo/background. It didn't seem to bother me until being side by side with the other monitors and testing out the difference in colors. I was disappointed at the results since IPS panels are suppose to be known for their color accuracy. Well I contacted green-sum and sent photos. Luckily I'll be receiving a shipping label to send it back to green-sum...so I'm not going to be paying any extra cost. Pretty great service thus far. I'm just afraid that there's always a chance of receiving another unlucky faulty monitor whether it's back-light bleed, color accuracy, or dead/stuck pixels. In my opinion...the tint is pretty bad (see photos). I guess it wasn't just me considering green-sum is accepting to replace it. Only other problem I have so far is waiting longer while making some sacrifices in trying to get this setup to work properly.



Spoiler: Photos






Quote:


> Originally Posted by *emsj86*
> 
> Our these monitors still worth it? I have my eyes on 2b extreme 340 on newegg , qnix 270 same price on newegg and the Asus pb278q for 420. Our these monitors lasting and would it be worth it over the Asus sorry for the ?s just been reading so many things and literally just getting confused figur better to hear it from the horses mouth how it works and looks. Thanks


I was in the same shoes as you. There's just so much information and different experiences in regards to all the Korean monitors available. The new monitors being released in the US are still quite expensive and may require an entire system overhaul...at least in my opinion knowing that my PC is a couple generations old now. That push me towards purchasing my Yamasaki Catleap monitors. There's risk of defects for any monitor (whether it's ASUS/LG/Korean/etc) so I decided on what I wanted to do which was to get the lowest priced monitor that can hopefully last. I would be willing to work with minor defects with the money I spent but also purchased that SquareTrade warranty as a backup. Good luck on your decision.


----------



## emsj86

Thank you just after reading around it seems getting Asus pb278q or benq 1440 born. 375-475 seems better when Korean ones I see our 350 matte. Now if they were sub 300 it's and a done deal but to save less tha. A hundred for basically in my eyes no Rma , a poor stand, questionable quality control and risk is not worth it. I know the name brands have defects but can ways be returned easier. Now if the swift was say 600 I'd get it. I'm actually hoping with the acer releasing soon they will drop at least a hundred but than again I hate waiting and may just get the Asus swift now and use neweggs year to pay feature. As I think g sync alone will help having to upgrade my 780 which is oc to 1300mhz on par with the 970 basically for a year or so more this saving money there


----------



## Kronin

Hi can anyone help, I am having trouble finding the right OC PCB for my Achieva Shimian QH270?
Since Emaxeon is not selling these PCBs anymore i started looking for them on alibaba site and as you might guess i am not sure which one it is?
On emaxeon the OC PCB carries the number LM270WQ1-SLA1 TCON, i did find several of them on alibaba but without TCON so I am not sure are those the right ones.
I asked the vednors but only one has replied to me since saying that it isnt
Basically here is the search list so if anyone can tell me which is the right one I would really appreciate it.
If not this, where are you guys getting these PCBs now that emaxeon is not working anymore (it's confirmed)?
I know about Overlord Computer but their PCBs are $200... :/


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> Hi can anyone help, I am having trouble finding the right OC PCB for my Achieva Shimian QH270?
> Since Emaxeon is not selling these PCBs anymore i started looking for them on alibaba site and as you might guess i am not sure which one it is?
> On emaxeon the OC PCB carries the number LM270WQ1-SLA1 TCON, i did find several of them on alibaba but without TCON so I am not sure are those the right ones.
> I asked the vednors but only one has replied to me since saying that it isnt
> Basically here is the search list so if anyone can tell me which is the right one I would really appreciate it.
> If not this, where are you guys getting these PCBs now that emaxeon is not working anymore (it's confirmed)?
> I know about Overlord Computer but their PCBs are $200... :/


Try asking Rod over in his thread *HERE* ... "How to build an overclockable monitor"
He has done more research (parts sourcing) on this than anyone I've seen so far


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Try asking Rod over in his thread *HERE* ... "How to build an overclockable monitor"
> He has done more research (parts sourcing) on this than anyone I've seen so far


LOL

I was just reading his thread and was planing to send him a PM.
I have actually came to some breakthroughs on my own.
This is the LM270WQ1-SLA1 TCON logical board and this is the
LM270WQ1 driver board required.
The problem is that taobao.com is for China only so they wont ship anywhere else, however the taobao seller sanelin88 has the the account on the alibaba but for some reason he is not selling the driver board there (nor anyone else).








And even if he puts it there I am not sure how the heck is he gonna price it.
For example, he sells LM270WQ1-SLA1 TCON on taobao for ~$32 while on Alibaba he sels it for $80 with free shipping, and from what I have seen shipping for these items is around $15 max... Basically he doubled the price for the foreigners...
Also some good Samaritan on this forum made this for noobs to get around, which I found after reading a few hundred pages...
Yey for me!


----------



## samuelspark

I upgraded from a 660 Ti to a R9 290, but now I can't seem to overclock my monitor at all. I get completely instability at anything about 60Hz and sometimes 60Hz causes huge artifacting too.


----------



## Italianstallion

Hello,

I am new to this forum, so I apologize if I am asking questions that have been answered before.. I did try gathering some info about this monitor and went through the q&a but what I found was a bit outdated and couldn't find the answer to the following questions;

What is the difference between yamakasi catleap q270 led multi 27" 2560x1440 s-ips f*rom S KOREA* found on ebay for $449

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-MULTI-S-IPS-2560X1440-27-Stereo-Computer-Monitor-/121453727127?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4734cd97

and the ones *FROM THE US* sold for around $300 (both on eBay and NewEgg)?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6PB2AR3478&cm_re=YAMAKASI_CATLEAP_Q270_MULTI_27%22_ips-_-9SIA6PB2AR3478-_-Product

Do they have different panels?

Also do these monitor support resolutions of 2560x1440 using a Dual-Link DVI thunderbolt adaptor for my 2014 *Mac Air*?

Thanks a lot in advance for helping


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *twokdavey*
> 
> Has anyone had problems with their computer slowly fading into black? Here is a youtube video that has my exact problem. The longer I let it rest ( red light) and when i turn it on it lasts a few seconds longer than when i immediately turn it on it immediately fades to black. the times last anywhere from 30 seconds to 3 minutes from a *cold start*.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have tried different cables. computer rigs. power outlets. I have checked the power brick (running fine). Its not running hot. I checked the inside pcb for the capacitors ( no gunk or anything). I am running out of ideas on what to check for. I bought this on ebay over a year ago, never had problems with it till now. I really do not want to give up this monitor, I love it so much!
> 
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


What catleap model is that? Most here in this thread have catleap Q270 2b. No red light, its green
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Italianstallion*
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I am new to this forum, so I apologize if I am asking questions that have been answered before.. I did try gathering some info about this monitor and went through the q&a but what I found was a bit outdated and couldn't find the answer to the following questions;
> 
> What is the difference between yamakasi catleap q270 led multi 27" 2560x1440 s-ips f*rom S KOREA* found on ebay for $449
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-YAMAKASI-CATLEAP-Q270-LED-MULTI-S-IPS-2560X1440-27-Stereo-Computer-Monitor-/121453727127?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c4734cd97
> 
> and the ones *FROM THE US* sold for around $300 (both on eBay and NewEgg)?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA6PB2AR3478&cm_re=YAMAKASI_CATLEAP_Q270_MULTI_27%22_ips-_-9SIA6PB2AR3478-_-Product
> 
> Do they have different panels?
> 
> Also do these monitor support resolutions of 2560x1440 using a Dual-Link DVI thunderbolt adaptor for my 2014 *Mac Air*?
> 
> Thanks a lot in advance for helping


The main appeal for the Yamakasi Catleaps has been their ability to overclock refresh rate up to 120hz. But this has only been possible on Q270 "2b" models with single DVI input. Any catleap without the 2b PCB or with multi-inputs will not overclock. It may be an OK monitor for 60hz, nothing more.


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *samuelspark*
> 
> I upgraded from a 660 Ti to a R9 290, but now I can't seem to overclock my monitor at all. I get completely instability at anything about 60Hz and sometimes 60Hz causes huge artifacting too.


You probably have some leftovers from the previous driver.
Download this program , uninstall all of the drivers and then try overclocking.
You did install ati pixel patcher, right?


----------



## Italianstallion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> What catleap model is that? Most here in this thread have catleap Q270 2b. No red light, its green
> The main appeal for the Yamakasi Catleaps has been their ability to overclock refresh rate up to 120hz. But this has only been possible on Q270 "2b" models with single DVI input. Any catleap without the 2b PCB or with multi-inputs will not overclock. It may be an OK monitor for 60hz, nothing more.


I see, that's good to know, thanks for the info. However I am still puzzled as to why the huge difference in price between the ones from US and the ones from Korea: the links above are both for multi inputs panels yet there is a 50% difference in price...

Also does the single DVI input work with a dual link *thunderbolt adapter on a Mac Air*?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> What catleap model is that? Most here in this thread have catleap Q270 2b. No red light, its green.


Hmm, I believe I posted this several months ago after I just received the catleap. Dont know how it is shown as posted yesterday. Anyway, it is incorrect. The catleap does show a red light, but only when you press its off button, otherwise it is continuous green or blinking green when PC is off or in sleep mode.


----------



## moose517

anybody got links to ebay for the 2C board? i'm now in possesion of 3 catleaps 2 of which won't power on, the third has a nice black line down the middle(and was able to verify before the third died that its indeed this board) and would really like to try and find some of the 2C boards to swap and see if that fixes all my issues before i give in and just buy at least one new monitor so i can get back to work.

EDIT: and as i sat here today the third one faded to blackness entirely







Unplugged it and plugged it back in and it sprung back on only to fade out again. So they are all 3 gone now. I've wondered if maybe its not these cheap power bricks they include, one of them the transformer wasn't even soldered all the way, thought about maybe using an old power supply and feeding that to the montiros to power them just not sure what voltages go across the pins.


----------



## kmaldona

I have the 2703 model. I can no longer download a color profile from the OP. Anyone have a link to the color profile that works?

Thanks.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kmaldona*
> 
> I have the 2703 model. I can no longer download a color profile from the OP. Anyone have a link to the color profile that works?
> 
> Thanks.


I think this is them, all three. I just uploaded it to MEGA for now. Not sure, but I think each has an explanation on the OP.

https://mega.co.nz/#!yEwzVaKQ!zRbBSkdcZ43jIlNlcC_NRil0z0JnL98ctZQsX-ysMgw

EDIT: OK, yeah I just verified it, these are all untouched and the original files from the OP. Just read the instructions on how to use them.


----------



## drunkclever

could not find links to OC software... looking to OC today. This one stuck green pixel is not really bothering me, unless im watching a movie. My Powercolor 7970 cards have to be underclocked, vram heating up causing artifacts. Need better cooling/ventilation. The AMD [email protected] is not really helping the situation


----------



## Crezzlin

Been a long time since i played with the Yamakasi monitors, when i first got them i had them at 100hz in Nvidia surround but cant for the life of me remember how i did it.. Are people still saying its worth overclocking them? and if so whats the best method? Thanks Guys


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Crezzlin*
> 
> Been a long time since i played with the Yamakasi monitors, when i first got them i had them at 100hz in Nvidia surround but cant for the life of me remember how i did it.. Are people still saying its worth overclocking them? and if so whats the best method? Thanks Guys


Its all there

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## Crezzlin

Thank You


----------



## drunkclever

got it up to only 65... then a whole bunch of lines and start showing up... need to do my research... thank you for posting that link
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> Its all there
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## Kronin

well you need to instal AMD/ATI Pixel Clock Patcher prior doing anything else, you did that right?


----------



## gerpogi

hi i just got a yamakasi catleap q270 ( sadly not the B2 model







) how do i join ? ( im also new to the website so bare wit hme







)


----------



## Kronin

I posted this question in Shimian topic bu I wouldnt be surprised if i get an answer right here.
I have some problems when it comes choosing DVI-D cable for my Shimian so any help is appreciated..
Next week I am getting Ergotron LX stand and My current DVI-D cable (1.5m) that cama with Shimian wont be enough for it.
Now I did some measurements and came to conclusion that I need a cable longer than 2 m but I dont know will there be any signal loos if I buy a 3m cable (5m cable is out of the question).According to this page at Wikipedia 4.6m is a max length for 1902x1200 monitor but seeing that mine is 1440p (soon to be running at 120Hz) i am not sure that this will work.
Has anyone tried with longer DVI-D cables and how did they perform?


----------



## garikfox

Hello everyone I'm thinking about getting a Yamakasi Monitor but am worried about there quality and the boards going out after a few months or after a year.

Are Yamakasi the best Korean brand to get ?

Also look at this link below How can a new Yamakasi Precision 2703 be only 215 dollars ?

http://www.amazon.com/2703-LED-2560x1440-Computer-Monitor/dp/B00TPSR3R6/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426198990&sr=1-2

Isnt this a insane deal ? to me it seams to be a great deal, if you guys tell me the quality is good im getting one









On a side note, this seller also has new Q270 "2b extreme OC" versions for 315 dollars

http://www.amazon.com/Yamakasi-Q270-Extreme-2560x1440-Monitor/dp/B00TQQVRME/ref=sr_1_25?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426200120&sr=1-25


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

I didn't get a Yamasaki but picked up a Topsync 2710 refurb for $179. The panel its self looks brand new. Casing/stand had minor marks which i am totally ok with. This thing looks awesome! Didn't exactly know the IPS models dont OC past 65hz usually but i am not really discouraged by it. Still a beautiful monitor.









Now keeping my eye out for a 2B PCB if i ever can come across one for a good price. Does anyone know where these tend to show up if they ever do other than buying from here? http://overlordcomputer.com/products/overlord-pcb-set


----------



## Feyris

Question for those with q270, ever experienced monitor losing display then getting it again within seconds at random? Trying to narrow problem down


----------



## electro2u

Try a different dvi cable?


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Try a different dvi cable?


That I have not done yet. I would have to order another off amazon since one that came in box is too short. but from what ive seen bluerigger cables are pretty durable.


----------



## Claiss

After reading some reviews I decided to pick up one of these monitors from amazon, specificaly this one. The one I got had no dead pixels and very minor blacklight bleed which I'm fine with. The color on this monitor put my 23 inch 1080p acer to shame I couldn't believe the difference in color. Very happy with it so far!

However I have a few questions about overclocking this monitor. I followed this 



 and pushed my monitor all the way up to 120hz and checked it with this test. I might be able to go higher but I doubt it would go any higher and I'm a bit worried about it which brings me to my questions. Does overclocking void the warranty and is there a way for them to tell if you overclocked it if something were to happen to it? Also does it shorten the lifespan of the monitor significantly?


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Question for those with q270, ever experienced monitor losing display then getting it again within seconds at random? Trying to narrow problem down


If I am not mistaking your DVI cable is loosing contact at the back of the monitor


----------



## cvatish

Hi. This is my first post here... I figured I'd ask about it rather than continuing to try everything that I can.

A while ago, I purchased an iRun monitor (for cheap), which internally similar to these Yamakasi's of course. Long-story-short, one of the LED bars burnt out on it (relatively common problem with the "dim left side," but to an extreme level). So, I have this half-lit display at this point. But then, one of the cables (LVDS) comes apart from the connector/head. So even if I had a replacement LED bar (which I can't find anywhere, and LG requires me to be a valid manufacturer/store/etc. to buy any, and they'd be in bulk amounts), I wouldn't be able to hook the monitor back up again for it to work.

Here's a photo of the cable in question. The panel that the cable came with is an SDC2.



Fast-forward to a couple of weeks ago: I bought a Yamakasi Catleap Q270 (for cheap) that had the issue of turning on, but not displaying anything (other than a black screen). The seller told me about this and knew it needed a new controller board set. So I figured I could take my controller board(s) from the iRun panel and just hook it up. But then I'm back at the issue of the broken connector...

The Yamakasi panel is an SDB3.

So, what should I do to get a working monitor out of this? Should I buy a replacement board set, complete with cables, from somewhere (I've only found a seller on eBay that has the main board plus LVDS cable for $90 USD)? Or is there another way that I can get this going? I really need to work on a higher resolution monitor such as one of these, but I don't have the money to pay full price...

If more photos would help, of the boards and whatnot, let me know. Thanks.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

If your iRun's only problem is a bad display, then maybe you can use the parts off of that and find the cable you need elsewhere?

Or, purchase the entire DVI board kit from one of the suppliers at taobao. You can contact Linda over at LYC and ask her if she can get you the parts you need. They are the manufacturer and supplier of many of these Korean DVI only 1440p monitors. She can send you any part you want, the plastic enclosure, the stand, the dvi board, the cables etc, even the dvi boards vesa mount box enclosure.

If you contact one of the manufacturers please be ready with much nicer close up pics of the cables then what you showed here. Also, there is a seller on ebay who makes DP only boards for these monitors, but it requires the original LG 60 hz only TCON boards. If you send him focused up close pics of the connectors on your TCON he can tell you if his DisplayPort board will work or not. Its also $90 and comes with everything you need to get the monitor running again, not including the power supply of course.

EDIT: Ok, after looking at this guys kits, he has everything you need, minus the power supply (and he may have a link to those to). So, his kits will work with either of your TCON boards. So, I would take the Yamakasi TCON and Display and match it up with the DP bypass board from the link below. Or if you want overclocking ask Linda if she can supply you a SLA1 tcon and dvi only board with cables.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Signal-Controller-Board-for-27inch-2560-1440-LM270WQ1-SDA2-LM270WQ1-SDB1-/191188384267


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> If your iRun's only problem is a bad display, then maybe you can use the parts off of that and find the cable you need elsewhere?
> 
> Or, purchase the entire DVI board kit from one of the suppliers at taobao. You can contact Linda over at LYC and ask her if she can get you the parts you need. They are the manufacturer and supplier of many of these Korean DVI only 1440p monitors. She can send you any part you want, the plastic enclosure, the stand, the dvi board, the cables etc, even the dvi boards vesa mount box enclosure.
> 
> If you contact one of the manufacturers please be ready with much nicer close up pics of the cables then what you showed here. Also, there is a seller on ebay who makes DP only boards for these monitors, but it requires the original LG 60 hz only TCON boards. If you send him focused up close pics of the connectors on your TCON he can tell you if his DisplayPort board will work or not. Its also $90 and comes with everything you need to get the monitor running again, not including the power supply of course.
> 
> EDIT: Ok, after looking at this guys kits, he has everything you need, minus the power supply (and he may have a link to those to). So, his kits will work with either of your TCON boards. So, I would take the Yamakasi TCON and Display and match it up with the DP bypass board from the link below. Or if you want overclocking ask Linda if she can supply you a SLA1 tcon and dvi only board with cables.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Signal-Controller-Board-for-27inch-2560-1440-LM270WQ1-SDA2-LM270WQ1-SDB1-/191188384267










... What a friggin GREAT POST ... +R









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Claiss*
> 
> After reading some reviews I decided to pick up one of these monitors from amazon, specificaly this one. The one I got had no dead pixels and very minor blacklight bleed which I'm fine with. The color on this monitor put my 23 inch 1080p acer to shame I couldn't believe the difference in color. Very happy with it so far!
> 
> However I have a few questions about overclocking this monitor. I followed this
> 
> 
> 
> and pushed my monitor all the way up to 120hz and checked it with this test. I might be able to go higher but I doubt it would go any higher and I'm a bit worried about it which brings me to my questions. Does overclocking void the warranty and is there a way for them to tell if you overclocked it if something were to happen to it? Also does it shorten the lifespan of the monitor significantly?


That looks like a multi-input model and I suspect that you won't have an overclock of 96Hz-120Hz WITHOUT DROPPING FRAMES









Read the blurbusters/testufo instructions carefully ...

_[Frame Skipping Check: Test for dropped frames & missing display refreshes.

(1) Take photo of this screen with camera. Screenshots won't work. Use 1/5th second exposure or longer to capture multiple squares. If camera exposure can't be raised, decrease camera ISO and/or reduce monitor brightness, to make camera do longer exposures. If you see only 1 or 2 white squares in your photo, try again.

(2) Photo should not contain any popup messages. Take photo when you see "VALID" at bottom of page. The message "VALID" does not confirm frame skipping.

(3) Check photo for frame skipping. Compare to example good photo and example frameskipped photo. The photo should have a sequence of multiple solid squares, with no gaps in between. If there are gaps, then there is frame skipping. For testing refresh rate overclocking such as IPS 1440p 120Hz monitors or HDTV overclocking, close all other apps and browser tabs, run this test with nothing running, and check browser requirements. For an alternative, see Refresh Rate Multitool from shurcooL.]
_



Very similar to the QNIX muti-input OC problems found *HERE* if you take a picture while running the testufo


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

HAHA, I aim to please... Not exactly sure about Linda's ability to help out, but she helped a friend here at the forums get everything he needed to complete his 1440 build. Not only that, but she was very friendly when I inquired about the metal VESA DVI Board box, which I might need this Spring when I possibly remove my glass bezel and build my own mount system. Anyway, she is the manager of the company that makes all these Korean monitors. So, she is a very valuable resource for us 1440 LG display owners.

The DP boards I mention are strictly by-pass boards. If your not concerned with Overclocking its best to go that route because it does not need a DVI to DP conversion chip, like the one we use on our overclocking board. It directly connects your GPU to your Display, and I mean DIRECTLY. lol

By the way, I am not going to mention any brand names, but the picture below is the one that Linda's company manufactures. I'm only showing the rear of the monitor on purpose... She "Should" be able to get you any part from that monitor. I'm just guessing though as I have yet to do biz with her.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

The color profile link does not work. http://scribsfjr.com/tech.htm

That is what is should be but it is an invalid or dead link.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NinjaSushi2*
> 
> The color profile link does not work. http://scribsfjr.com/tech.htm
> 
> That is what is should be but it is an invalid or dead link.


Color profile link?

Are you talking about what I posted a few pages back?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1225919/yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club/10890#post_23602327


----------



## cvatish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> If your iRun's only problem is a bad display, then maybe you can use the parts off of that and find the cable you need elsewhere?
> 
> Or, purchase the entire DVI board kit from one of the suppliers at taobao. You can contact Linda over at LYC and ask her if she can get you the parts you need. They are the manufacturer and supplier of many of these Korean DVI only 1440p monitors. She can send you any part you want, the plastic enclosure, the stand, the dvi board, the cables etc, even the dvi boards vesa mount box enclosure.
> 
> If you contact one of the manufacturers please be ready with much nicer close up pics of the cables then what you showed here. Also, there is a seller on ebay who makes DP only boards for these monitors, but it requires the original LG 60 hz only TCON boards. If you send him focused up close pics of the connectors on your TCON he can tell you if his DisplayPort board will work or not. Its also $90 and comes with everything you need to get the monitor running again, not including the power supply of course.
> 
> EDIT: Ok, after looking at this guys kits, he has everything you need, minus the power supply (and he may have a link to those to). So, his kits will work with either of your TCON boards. So, I would take the Yamakasi TCON and Display and match it up with the DP bypass board from the link below. Or if you want overclocking ask Linda if she can supply you a SLA1 tcon and dvi only board with cables.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Signal-Controller-Board-for-27inch-2560-1440-LM270WQ1-SDA2-LM270WQ1-SDB1-/191188384267


Thank you very much for a prompt and helpful post!

Yes, I was hoping to just find the replacement cable from where and use the board(s) from the iRun monitor for the Yamakasi panel. I'll shoot Linda an email to see if she can help with that, so thanks for the contact info.

If I can't get the cable alone, I'll buy a full board kit. I have two working power supplies, so that isn't an issue.

I contacted that ebay seller (elecrealm) earlier this week about that same listing, but he was a bit confused about my LVDS and panel combination... The panel from the Yamakasi is an SDB3, which implies that I'd need this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/191280025677?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

But this is what was said about the cable that I've also shown here: "It seems that the connector for SDC2 is 40Pin based on your photo. But the pin will be 30pin based on the datasheet. I'm confused for it."

I'm pretty sure it's a 30-pin connector that I've shown, but from the iRun, it splits from one connector on the board to two cables that connect to the TCON. The cables on the Yamakasi board are two separate cables.

Here are a few better photos to help illustrate what I have:

iRun ZT-SH270QHD board(s):


iRun ZT-SH270QHD T-con board:


iRun LVDS cable (broken into two, as seen in the photos):




Yamakasi Catleap Q270 board:


Yamakasi Catleap Q270 T-Con (seemingly identical to the iRun T-con):


Tighter shot of the connectors on the T-con:


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

You should take a photo Close up of the yamakasi tcon, top middle where it identifies itself. Also all these panels are the same, well practically the same not counting minor differences such as display coatings. Only the tcon differs which is where it gets the last four digits from. As soon as the tcon is replaced you have a different beast. So the yamakasi panel could be from SDB3 stock but yamakasi could have installed anything that supported the connection board.

According to your numbers you have a 14ms tcon. I would want a 6ms tcon regardless of what I do with the machine. Later I will post some more info so you can figure out the best possible path. Oh and Linda only deals with the overclocking models with SLA1 tcons which have two cables going to the DVI board, as far as I know. I may be wrong though.

EDIT: Haha, I just realized I can see that photo just fine on my PC, just not very well on my tablet earlier this morning. Looking at my spare tcon, it appears I have the SDC1 and it uses a completely different connection, but the same exact chip. hmm interesting. My SDC1 TCON came off a 2013 SDDB HP-Z1 panel, which makes no sense really. However, I was told if the connectors are the same, it will work. I would try that ebay seller again, and give him a photo of only your TCOn and broken cable. He had no problem identifying my SDC1 tcon.

Here is a link to some information of all the various panels released. Just select 27"
http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm

Here is the Panelook page for our displays, maybe you can figure something out from all this data.
http://www.panelook.com/modelsearch.php?panel_part_number=LM270WQ1&submit=Search

Good luck...


----------



## Claiss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ... What a friggin GREAT POST ... +R
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> That looks like a multi-input model and I suspect that you won't have an overclock of 96Hz-120Hz WITHOUT DROPPING FRAMES
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Read the blurbusters/testufo instructions carefully ...
> 
> _[Frame Skipping Check: Test for dropped frames & missing display refreshes.
> 
> (1) Take photo of this screen with camera. Screenshots won't work. Use 1/5th second exposure or longer to capture multiple squares. If camera exposure can't be raised, decrease camera ISO and/or reduce monitor brightness, to make camera do longer exposures. If you see only 1 or 2 white squares in your photo, try again.
> 
> (2) Photo should not contain any popup messages. Take photo when you see "VALID" at bottom of page. The message "VALID" does not confirm frame skipping.
> 
> (3) Check photo for frame skipping. Compare to example good photo and example frameskipped photo. The photo should have a sequence of multiple solid squares, with no gaps in between. If there are gaps, then there is frame skipping. For testing refresh rate overclocking such as IPS 1440p 120Hz monitors or HDTV overclocking, close all other apps and browser tabs, run this test with nothing running, and check browser requirements. For an alternative, see Refresh Rate Multitool from shurcooL.]
> _
> 
> 
> 
> Very similar to the QNIX muti-input OC problems found *HERE* if you take a picture while running the testufo


Yup I do indeed get frame skipping on anything above 60 hz







I'm fine with it though since I am only driving this monitor with a single GTX 970 so its not like I will be pushing much more than 60 frames in new titles. I'm enjoying the monitor a lot still but the blacklight bleeding that I mentioned earlier gets very bad towards the end of the day. I know most of these panels probably have a bit of blacklight bleed but at the end of the day on a black screen mine easily takes up 3/4 of the screen coming from the middle of the right side and the top and bottom left corners. I find that it just radiates out from those 3 spots the longer it is on. When i first turn it back on in the morning there is barely any bleed at all. Wondering if I should return it and try my luck on another since i bought it through amazon.


----------



## electro2u

After a year with my catleap 110hz now is unstable in the morning on a cold start. After a few seconds it's fine. It first started doing this at 120hz a few months ago and I turned it down to 110hz. Looking at new monitors. =(


----------



## Feyris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> After a year with my catleap 110hz now is unstable in the morning on a cold start. After a few seconds it's fine. It first started doing this at 120hz a few months ago and I turned it down to 110hz. Looking at new monitors. =(


Is yours dvi only or multi qq also .pats. Its to be expected everything slows down with age


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Feyris*
> 
> Is yours dvi only or multi qq also .pats. Its to be expected everything slows down with age


Dvi only. If only that were the only thing slowing down around here I'd be sitting pretty









It will be a fantastic second monitor. After I decide on what to for a gaming monitor (the rare time I'm not on my wii u).


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> Dvi only. If only that were the only thing slowing down around here I'd be sitting pretty
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It will be a fantastic second monitor. After I decide on what to for a gaming monitor (the rare time I'm not on my wii u).


From what I read on other forums cold boot problem is a normal thing with these monitors.
It needs a bit of time for tcons to heat up in order to loosen their bandwidth.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cvatish*
> 
> Thank you very much for a prompt and helpful post!
> 
> Yes, I was hoping to just find the replacement cable from where and use the board(s) from the iRun monitor for the Yamakasi panel. I'll shoot Linda an email to see if she can help with that, so thanks for the contact info.


Well, I would have to say Linda is out of the question for parts on these, even though I know for fact someone here in these forums got parts from her. She wants me to pay $150 just for the metal box for the DVI board and a vesa Stand. Lol, not going to happen. So, I assume she probably won't be interested in shipping a single cable for under $100.

I thought for sure she could supply parts at a reasonable cost but apparently they want you to pay heavily to make up for you not buying a complete unit.


----------



## Feyris

That sounds sad. Guess i shouldnt ask for white frame lol i also was thinking of wwitching to a multi. Well I NEED to. College small space...byebye tv.... u know.....


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> She wants me to pay $150 just for the metal box for the DVI board and a vesa Stand.


150$ shipped (?) isn't that expensive considering that size and cost of the height adjustable stands the Korean monitors use on eBay.

I bought 2 overclock-able PCB's from Taobao, but need the DVI boards which are no longer available from sanelin88 who seems to be the only one selling them on the internet. Hopefully my Zalcom has the correct board, but I doubt it since the original parts aren't over clock-able.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> 150$ shipped (?) isn't that expensive considering that size and cost of the height adjustable stands the Korean monitors use on eBay.
> 
> I bought 2 overclock-able PCB's from Taobao, but need the DVI boards which are no longer available from sanelin88 who seems to be the only one selling them on the internet. Hopefully my Zalcom has the correct board, but I doubt it since the original parts aren't over clock-able.


I was actually just going to post today as id love to swap the parts in my Topsync 2710 IPS to get 96hz at least. Anyone else have input on where or what parts are needed? Is it just the PCB that needs swapped? Kinda confused and a noob at the whole display modding aspect


----------



## jonathan1107

found another catleap on ebay I could maybe buy with this model number: "q270se4f2LP0082" is it a 2b model (overclockable to 120hz or a lesser one) ??﻿


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BuildTestRepeat*
> 
> I was actually just going to post today as id love to swap the parts in my Topsync 2710 IPS to get 96hz at least. Anyone else have input on where or what parts are needed? Is it just the PCB that needs swapped? Kinda confused and a noob at the whole display modding aspect


You need a new TCON capable of overclocking and a bypass board (DVI only board with no features other then brightness control and on/off). As far as we know the only proper TCON is the LM270WQ1-SLA1, and the only appropriate DVI board is the HY-2560M_DA_Q1.

I have my suspicions that there are other combinations of PCB's out there that would work, but as far as I can tell it has not been discovered yet, not for the 1440 IPS panels anyway. I also believe that there are some DisplayPort only boards that may work for overclocking, but we need to find an appropriate TCON that will comply. Most of this tech is several years old so it's highly unlikely as all of it was designed with 60 hz max in mind, maybe a little more for lower res's. I believe the SLA1 is actually a 60 hz only part just like the others and the Engineer simply forgot to implement a frequency limit. Thus when you overclock these you are REALLY overclocking them. Think of this combination of boards like a K variant of a Intel CPU, its unlocked.

Oh, and yes I think $150 USD for a stand and a dollars worth in metal is way over priced. I'd rather buy a used HP stand off ebay for $20 (or make my own for even less) and let the PCB run in open air, which is probably better for it anyway. lol

Below are a few pics of my friends new setup using the same panel as the Yamakasi 2B (or close as possible to the same panel, only he is using A+ grade). See the metal box that Linda sent him? Its not even remotely worth $100 or more, not even $20 imo. I like how he just attached the DVI board directly to his cross beams, nice open air design and far from the heat of the panel itself.


----------



## BuildTestRepeat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> You need a new TCON capable of overclocking and a bypass board (DVI only board with no features other then brightness control and on/off). As far as we know the only proper TCON is the LM270WQ1-SLA1, and the only appropriate DVI board is the HY-2560M_DA_Q1.
> 
> I have my suspicions that there are other combinations of PCB's out there that would work, but as far as I can tell it has not been discovered yet, not for the 1440 IPS panels anyway. I also believe that there are some DisplayPort only boards that may work for overclocking, but we need to find an appropriate TCON that will comply. Most of this tech is several years old so it's highly unlikely as all of it was designed with 60 hz max in mind, maybe a little more for lower res's. I believe the SLA1 is actually a 60 hz only part just like the others and the Engineer simply forgot to implement a frequency limit. Thus when you overclock these you are REALLY overclocking them. Think of this combination of boards like a K variant of a Intel CPU, its unlocked.
> 
> Oh, and yes I think $150 USD for a stand and a dollars worth in metal is way over priced. I'd rather buy a used HP stand off ebay for $20 (or make my own for even less) and let the PCB run in open air, which is probably better for it anyway. lol
> 
> Below are a few pics of my friends new setup using the same panel as the Yamakasi 2B (or close as possible to the same panel, only he is using A+ grade). See the metal box that Linda sent him? Its not even remotely worth $100 or more, not even $20 imo. I like how he just attached the DVI board directly to his cross beams, nice open air design and far from the heat of the panel itself.


Thanks for the info! Looks like i have some research to do


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Has anyone ran into the issue of not being able to set gamma? I've had this problem in both Neverwinter Online and Never Winter Nights. I try to set gamma in game and the monitor reverts back to the same gamma it was before the changes. I haven't tried it in WoW yet. I also cannot adjust gamma using Windows' calibration tool. Does anyone have any idea? Is it the monitor or something else? I am guessing the monitor doesn't like to adjust it's gamma.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jonathan1107*
> 
> ﻿


Shadow of Amn avatar. This guy knows what's up. ^^

UPDATE!! Ignore my fallacy. I never stopped to think f.lux might be interfering with my games. I put f.lux into safe mode and I can adjust gamma again.


----------



## cvatish

So, the ebay guy mentioned here updated his listing to say 30 pin after I counted the pins, lol. It used to say 40pins.

Anyway, that looks like the board I'd need to get my SDB3 working, but from what I can tell, it only has a single LVDS connection that comes with it... The T-con's I have require two connections though. Any idea of what's going on there? Would I be able to use the connector that I already have? It seems to have the same port on the board in the eBay listing and on the board I have, so I don't see a reason this wouldn't work out...


----------



## CatReaper

Here's an interesting one:

I've broken the VESA mount on my Catleap Q270SE. The part that lives inside the monitor.

I've had it for about two and a half years. It's a 60Hz model, a 2F serial-- no overclocking was ever asked of it because I just wanted a modestly good IPS panel with what was, at the time, loads upon loads of pixels. I came to love even it's weirdnesses. The external power brick is ugly and cracked in a way that you can now easily open and electrocute yourself on it, but hey, that means all the hot-running stuff isn't inside the monitor ready to fail at a moment's notice.

A while back, I pulled it apart enough to remove the stupid decorative trim over the mount, and bolted on a cheap litle stand. Worked okay-- the stand was stiff, and it required washers to be installed between the stand and the monitor to allow it to actually fit together.

Recently, I replaced it with a better stand designed for two monitors, pairing it with an old 20" screen I wanted mostly because it could also be used with consoles and retrogames.

In the process, I detached and reattached mounts a few times. I hate the washers, because I'm convinced they compromise the stability of the mount-- perfectly flat will eventually tip over as the washers get squished by the weight of the monitor. Figured maybe with the right lengths of screws, I could abandon the washers.After one round, I found that one of the four threaded metal holes inside the monitor fell out.

Later, I heard a soul-exploding crackjng noise, and it appeared that a second had snapped loose.

Now, here's what I can tell of the Catleap's VESA mount without ever having dissembled the unit far enough to see it:

* It seems to be two seperate pieces-- the two left holes are connected to each other and the two right holes are connected to each other. I've lost the "bottom left" and "bottom right" holes. The two halves MAY be connected, but the ability to wiggle one without budging the other seems to suggest there isn't that much connection between them,
* It seems these weren't well made to begin with. One of the "pieces" never sat flat-- it would rattle a fair bit. It's super-clear VESA-mounting was put on the box as a "Yeah, it does that" without anyone ever checking it for credibility.

What can I do now?

Option 1 seems to be "ignore it and hope it fails in some other way before the mount goes, dropping the monitor 20cm to its death".
The montior seems to stay in place on the top two screws, but you can no longer enjoy the easily adjustable stand, and adjusting the angle is risky-- it won't likely sit where you wanrt it, and I'd expect some angles would put awful stress of the whole montior on those two little socket bits.

Option 2: Try to replace the VESA mount with like parts-- which would entail either finding a dead Catleap (which don't seem as common as you'd expect given their popularity and price) or spending a lot of money on a part which probably can only be ordered as a huge "entire back case" subassembly at $15 for parts plus $175 shipping from Korea. And then we're back to a "sucky mount which barely mounts".

Option 3: Replace mount with better. I have a mounting plate from an old Compaq LCD with 75mm holes, that's actually thick metal. I worry, however, it won't fit inside the case, and any sort of "bolt/epoxy it to the outside of the case case itself" would lead to a fragile connection. Does anyone have any pictures of the back half of the Catleap FULLY stripped down to the VESA mount? The pics and videos I see tend to stop at the shielding behind the controller board (since, for most people who didn't wreck it, the controller board the most buried part you'd have to remove).

Options 2 and 3 also bring in the exciting risk of disdassembling the unit. Yes, I did it once to expose the mount in the first place, but it was still hardly an enjoyable experience.

Option 4: Somehow "re-case" the unit. I know some people have dome some awesome custom stuff, but I'm not looking for a huge engineering project, and I sort of like the "default" look of it; while uninspired, there are no surprise sharp edges or places I need to make sure nobody accidentally touches. I also don't have quality machine-working tools, and all else equal, I'd prefer a fix that doesn't involve "send a design out to be manufacturered; it will be back in 9-24 months."

Option 5: Unload it as fast as possible, hope someone is floored at the promise of getting a 27" under budget that they don't notice the stand problems, and get another similar model with a less moronically-designed VESA attachment. It's weird. Normally I love to get new hardware, but I really like this screen, and I don't see anything that I can say "Yeah, it's another three hundred bucks you hadn't budgeted on, but it blows the old Catleap right out of the water"

Am I missing any options?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CatReaper*
> 
> Here's an interesting one:
> 
> I've broken the VESA mount on my Catleap Q270SE. The part that lives inside the monitor.
> 
> I've had it for about two and a half years. It's a 60Hz model, a 2F serial-- no overclocking was ever asked of it because I just wanted a modestly good IPS panel with what was, at the time, loads upon loads of pixels. I came to love even it's weirdnesses. The external power brick is ugly and cracked in a way that you can now easily open and electrocute yourself on it, but hey, that means all the hot-running stuff isn't inside the monitor ready to fail at a moment's notice.
> 
> A while back, I pulled it apart enough to remove the stupid decorative trim over the mount, and bolted on a cheap litle stand. Worked okay-- the stand was stiff, and it required washers to be installed between the stand and the monitor to allow it to actually fit together.
> 
> Recently, I replaced it with a better stand designed for two monitors, pairing it with an old 20" screen I wanted mostly because it could also be used with consoles and retrogames.
> 
> In the process, I detached and reattached mounts a few times. I hate the washers, because I'm convinced they compromise the stability of the mount-- perfectly flat will eventually tip over as the washers get squished by the weight of the monitor. Figured maybe with the right lengths of screws, I could abandon the washers.After one round, I found that one of the four threaded metal holes inside the monitor fell out.
> 
> Later, I heard a soul-exploding crackjng noise, and it appeared that a second had snapped loose.
> 
> Now, here's what I can tell of the Catleap's VESA mount without ever having dissembled the unit far enough to see it:
> 
> * It seems to be two seperate pieces-- the two left holes are connected to each other and the two right holes are connected to each other. I've lost the "bottom left" and "bottom right" holes. The two halves MAY be connected, but the ability to wiggle one without budging the other seems to suggest there isn't that much connection between them,
> * It seems these weren't well made to begin with. One of the "pieces" never sat flat-- it would rattle a fair bit. It's super-clear VESA-mounting was put on the box as a "Yeah, it does that" without anyone ever checking it for credibility.
> 
> What can I do now?
> 
> Option 1 seems to be "ignore it and hope it fails in some other way before the mount goes, dropping the monitor 20cm to its death".
> The montior seems to stay in place on the top two screws, but you can no longer enjoy the easily adjustable stand, and adjusting the angle is risky-- it won't likely sit where you wanrt it, and I'd expect some angles would put awful stress of the whole montior on those two little socket bits.
> 
> Option 2: Try to replace the VESA mount with like parts-- which would entail either finding a dead Catleap (which don't seem as common as you'd expect given their popularity and price) or spending a lot of money on a part which probably can only be ordered as a huge "entire back case" subassembly at $15 for parts plus $175 shipping from Korea. And then we're back to a "sucky mount which barely mounts".
> 
> Option 3: Replace mount with better. I have a mounting plate from an old Compaq LCD with 75mm holes, that's actually thick metal. I worry, however, it won't fit inside the case, and any sort of "bolt/epoxy it to the outside of the case case itself" would lead to a fragile connection. Does anyone have any pictures of the back half of the Catleap FULLY stripped down to the VESA mount? The pics and videos I see tend to stop at the shielding behind the controller board (since, for most people who didn't wreck it, the controller board the most buried part you'd have to remove).
> 
> Options 2 and 3 also bring in the exciting risk of disdassembling the unit. Yes, I did it once to expose the mount in the first place, but it was still hardly an enjoyable experience.
> 
> Option 4: Somehow "re-case" the unit. I know some people have dome some awesome custom stuff, but I'm not looking for a huge engineering project, and I sort of like the "default" look of it; while uninspired, there are no surprise sharp edges or places I need to make sure nobody accidentally touches. I also don't have quality machine-working tools, and all else equal, I'd prefer a fix that doesn't involve "send a design out to be manufacturered; it will be back in 9-24 months."
> 
> Option 5: Unload it as fast as possible, hope someone is floored at the promise of getting a 27" under budget that they don't notice the stand problems, and get another similar model with a less moronically-designed VESA attachment. It's weird. Normally I love to get new hardware, but I really like this screen, and I don't see anything that I can say "Yeah, it's another three hundred bucks you hadn't budgeted on, but it blows the old Catleap right out of the water"
> 
> Am I missing any options?


Well detailed and presented question(s) ... I'm a bit surprised Skorpion didn't jump in yet, but go *HERE* for some great info and some options for your predicament









Make sure to rep him he's a very helpful guy! Also people tend to ignore new users who don't fill in their system specs, just saying, see my sig below


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Well detailed and presented question(s) ... I'm a bit surprised Skorpion didn't jump in yet, but go *HERE* for some great info and some options for your predicament
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure to rep him he's a very helpful guy! Also people tend to ignore new users who don't fill in their system specs, just saying, see my sig below


LOL, I just been really busy testing Windows 10 and getting lots of headaches in the process. Today I am really hurting with a migraine, so please forgive and excuse me from reading that much text.. lol, I already burnt myself out today over at XDA. Sorry


----------



## CatReaper

Good news: it's fixed now.

For the reference of anyone else who wonders what it looks like underneath the display board:



As I suspected, it's two seperate pieces of metal Sleep well, Catleap owners, knowing your $300 investments are dangling from that! They're only tacked down by a little plastic melted down. The metal thickness is about that of a US dime, perhaps marginally thinner, and the threaded component seemed to be a seperate part forced into it, not a stamping of the metal itself.

I ripped them out, and it turned out to contain basically enough space for the plate I discussed above. It came out of a Compaq FP745A, I think. It has four holes in a 75x75mm pattern, and four that were designed to fit the original bolt-on stand. There's one way you can rotate it where it lines up with the stock mounting holes well.



Rather than trying to hope for good alignment all through the project,and running bolts into this plate from outside.. I stuck the bolts through the plate, so they'd just stick out of the back of the monitor. This, honestly, would probably wotk sans adhesive, but I epoxied the plate to the inside of the casing. The bolts were the "long bolts designed for use with curved-back monitors" that came with the VESA stand I'm using. Boring shot of epoxy setting with some weight on it:



A troubling side issue-- the metal plate that the controller PCB is bolted to was also paper-thin, but uneven and ragged. I slapped some electrical tape onto that metal, to hopefully prevent the connectors from shorting; I figured I couldn't guarantee that the extra stuff now living behind there would trigger the metal to flex and short in the future.

Bolted back together, you find four big bolts sticking out of the back, meaning any sort of work on it has to be done in odd conditions-- i. e. putting the monitor on top of a chair so the holts can hang between the arms.



I had to disassemble it once, after dislodging the data cable from the panel. I guess an extra 5cm of cable would have blown their budget almost as much as using a proper mount would have.

The final step is to just slide it through the VESA mount and add nuts to retain it. I suspect it may not be as easy to pivot as it would be with a conventional mounting, but I don't expect to be running it in portrait mode often.



I also had a side-quest... eliminating the alarming rattle coming from the power supply when moved. Turns out all four of the screw sockets had cracked to pieces... only one now retains the screw at all after opening the unit to remove the fragments. I should probably do something to seal the power brick up, but it's the ultimate theft deterrent now.


----------



## electro2u

Thats a well earned +1 good work


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

In the future if ever needed you can shorten the bolts via dremel cutoff tool. Nice work CatReaper


----------



## cvatish

Sorry for just asking questions... Does anyone know where I can get replacement LED bars for these panels?

My SD C2 has a burnt-out bar, so I can only get half of the backlighting going (since they're two bars with ~30 LEDs each that light the left and right side).

Apparently some people have gotten LED's out of other monitors, but I don't know what would be compatible. I've looked at the specs for the backlight bars, but they don't really help with finding a replacement part.

Also, as an update to my troubles above, I've ordered a replacement for the cable that broke in my Yamakasi, so I'll see how that goes with the replacement T-Con from my iRun monitor.


----------



## shremi

Guys is there anywhere i can buy more kits to oc ????? I already have 2 of these debezeled and they are great but i really need to go for the surround experience .... I was planning on buying a third out of ebay but the prices are extremely high right now and since i will be running them debezeled i thought to make my own following the guide floating arround here ...


----------



## cvatish

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cvatish*
> 
> Also, as an update to my troubles above, I've ordered a replacement for the cable that broke in my Yamakasi, so I'll see how that goes with the replacement T-Con from my iRun monitor.


I got the cable yesterday and it is the correct one, but the connector on one end isn't the same as the board takes, so it just doesn't fit into the slot on the display board.

I'm not sure what to do now...

I guess if anyone's interested, especially in Canada, I have 1 A-grade sdb3 panel and accompanying boards without one of the cables, and also a grade-A sdc2 with half of the backlight and accompanying boards with a broken cable.

I'm tempted to buy a board kit from ebay for $120 CAD but I've put so much time and money into these two monitors already, I don't think I can spare much more. Plus, I'd need two board kits to get both of them running, and even then, one only has one side of the backlight working... All this for a couple of missing cables.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## superroach

A while ago I had my Yamakasi Q270SE have occasional flickering problems - like the backlight would switch off then back on.
Then it went off, and smoke came from the rear. Wasn't sure if it was the brick or the screen, but it didn't appear to turn back on since then.

Opened it up, and I noticed one cable looking rather dangerous here - seems to be the power connection from the panel to the rear?


http://imgur.com/KiuHH


In this state, do you think the screen is completely dead?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superroach*
> 
> A while ago I had my Yamakasi Q270SE have occasional flickering problems - like the backlight would switch off then back on.
> Then it went off, and smoke came from the rear. Wasn't sure if it was the brick or the screen, but it didn't appear to turn back on since then.
> 
> Opened it up, and I noticed one cable looking rather dangerous here - seems to be the power connection from the panel to the rear?
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/KiuHH
> 
> 
> In this state, do you think the screen is completely dead?


It looks like every wire on that cable experienced a short, each and every one of them are darkened. Or maybe that was just from the smoke. If thats going to the panel, then id say the TCON is now bad. I would buy another similar monitor, swap in the parts and see if the panel still works fine. If so, then just keep the new panel and try and find new parts to fix the old panel. Maybe you can recoup some money by selling it once you fix it or do a side by side setup.


----------



## Blackfyre

Hello everyone,

Need some advice.

Around a month ago, my Yamakasi Catleap Q270 (_I purchased it when they first came out_), started acting weird. Well for one when I turned my system on, I had unplug and plug in the DVI Connection at the login screen for it to work (_which wasn't a big deal_). Two weeks ago it just wouldn't work, monitor is on but no signal, I thought it stopped working after multiple times of unplugging and plugging the DVI connection, unplugging the monitor out of power for several hours (_nothing seemed to work_), but then my brother told me to unplug the power adapter out of electricity (_not the monitor itself, but the power adapter_), which seemed pointless to me, but unplugging the power adapter for 10 minutes and plugging it back into electricity seemed to do the job (_so now I think it's a power adapter issue not giving enough power to the monitor_). Oh I have to mention these things only occur after a shutdown of the PC, these problems never occur once the monitor is working and the PC is running. It's usually after shutting it down at night and turning it back on in the morning or afternoon.

Anyway, around a week ago, I started to have to keep the power adapter unplugged for 30 minutes or so before the monitor would work. And two days ago after turning the computer on, nothing has been working with the monitor. I've been using my 1080p screen for the last two days, the Catleap Q270 has been unplugged for TWO days and I just plugged it in and the green light stays on for a second or two then it starts flashing (_no signal_)...

So now I am trying to decide whether to buy a POWER Adapter or not? Is this a monitor issue or a power adapter issue? Has it happened to anyone before? and has buying a power adapter fixed the issue?

Also my brother said it might be better to buy a 24v 7.5a Power Adapter instead of a 24v 5a Power Adapter. He said the ampere shouldn't matter and all new technologies have built in limits, so even if I have a 24v/7a power supply, the monitor won't draw more than 5a. Is this correct? Because if so I assume it would be better to buy a 7.5a Power supply that way I am never using it to 100% of its capability and it would last longer. It's like a computer that uses 600W and someone buys a 650W PSU, which means the 650W PSU is always stressing itself to its maximum. While if you buy an 850W power supply it gives it headroom and allows it to relax and it lasts longer (_less stress_).

Thank you for your help and support in return.

God I hate using this 1080p Acer Monitor! I just can't go back to 1080p.

EDIT #1:

The 7.5A One:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Netzteil-TFT-LCD-TV-Targa-LT3010-Ersatz-FSP180-AAA-FSP180-AAAN1-24V-7-5A-4Pin-/121470304682?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item1c4831c1aa

The 5A One similar to the one that comes with the monitor:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/24V-5A-AC-Adapter-Charger-For-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-LCD-Monitor-4-pin-Tip-/230838320475?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35bf093d5b


----------



## EniGma1987

I was thinking of selling my pixel perfect, no BLB, 130Hz stable Catleap 2B now that I dont need it anymore. But after seeing the stuff going on lately in this thread it makes me want to just revamp the monitor and make a more stable vesa mount and integrate an Arduino controller to run a strobing backlight. Ya, I think Ill turn this into a project monitor now


----------



## Blackfyre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I was thinking of selling my pixel perfect, no BLB, 130Hz stable Catleap 2B now that I dont need it anymore. But after seeing the stuff going on lately in this thread it makes me want to just revamp the monitor and make a more stable vesa mount and integrate an Arduino controller to run a strobing backlight. Ya, I think Ill turn this into a project monitor now


Do it... Or just don't touch it and enjoy it. I bought a power adapter that didn't work and now I'm looking at getting set back $800 buying a QHD 32" (want bigger size for watching movies and series). Probably going to go with the Benq BL3200PT.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EniGma1987*
> 
> I was thinking of selling my pixel perfect, no BLB, 130Hz stable Catleap 2B now that I dont need it anymore. But after seeing the stuff going on lately in this thread it makes me want to just revamp the monitor and make a more stable vesa mount and integrate an Arduino controller to run a strobing backlight. Ya, I think Ill turn this into a project monitor now


Strobing this monitor will cause artifacts because the pixel response is not fast enough. No IPS monitor except the Acer meets conditions for strobing, and at 100Hz. The criterion for fast response is for a pixel to reach 99% of its intended luminance value before strobing happens. With TN panels they had to restrict pixel color ranges to meet that, hence crap blacks and blue tints. As for the Acer, it seems that at 100Hz (10ms), it does not need to restrict its color range to meet that response time.


----------



## Mitchlolz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blackfyre*
> 
> I bought a power adapter that didn't work


Which adapter did you buy?
I have the exact same problem you have described and want to buy a working one if possible. Also in Australia so it's a bit annoying having to order internationally


----------



## Blackfyre

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mitchlolz*
> 
> Which adapter did you buy?
> 
> I have the exact same problem you have described and want to buy a working one if possible. Also in Australia so it's a bit annoying having to order internationally


Hey mate,

I ended up buying the adapter below and it didn't work at all (_It doesn't send power to the monitor at all, at least the official brick still lights up the monitor, this does nothing_). It was really frustrating too. And now the site is pissing me off about returning it too. I ended up going to JB-Hi-Fi and buying the Sony W700C TV and I'm using it as a monitor (_loving it so far after tweaking its settings_).

http://www.au-laptop-adapter.com/monitor-adapter-lcd-24v-5a-120w-245.html

*Edit:*

If you do BUY an adapter and it ends up working for you. Please come back here, quote this post, and let me know the details. Where you got it, and how long it took to arrive. Thanks, and goodluck.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mitchlolz*
> 
> Which adapter did you buy?
> I have the exact same problem you have described and want to buy a working one if possible. Also in Australia so it's a bit annoying having to order internationally


The Catleap 2B input board requires an adapter with the following polarity on the 4 pin output.

Also consider that the seller might send an adapter with the shifted polarity by mistake. It happened to me.


----------



## llantant

Hi,

I have a Catleap Q271 with the multi inputs.

I am having some issues calibrating it. The whites just seems a little too white.

Brightness is 40
Contrast is 50
Gamma is set to Off in menu

I cannot find for the life of me any information on the Gamma setting on the monitor. I have used some Gamma calibration charts to achieve what I believe to be around 2.2 Gamma (using windows Gamma Calibration), but my monitor has on its own options a setting called Gamma. You can either set it on or off.

So should it be set on or off I guess is what my question is???


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

I can't believe AMD dropped the DVI port from its flagship cards Fury X and Fury X2. I waited all year just to see what they bring to the table and its more then impressive and then BAM.... screwed over by engineers who think the DVI port is dead. And active adapters that work are well over or at least $100 more to add to the total cost.

I never even once, not for a minute expected to see a Enthusiast card with no DVI port. Disgusted to say the least...


----------



## spypet

sorry, but I just can't skim through 11,000 posts here, so could a regular thread subscriber please answer a simple question for me; did the 32X2-P ever overclock above 60Hz without skipping frames at either 1080p or 1440p? I see a lot of Korean claims about this but without any solid evidence that any sort of overclock on that 32" panel is actually possible to enjoy without frame skips.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> sorry, but I just can't skim through 11,000 posts here, so could a regular thread subscriber please answer a simple question for me; did the 32X2-P ever overclock above 60Hz without skipping frames at either 1080p or 1440p? I see a lot of Korean claims about this but without any solid evidence that any sort of overclock on that 32" panel is actually possible to enjoy without frame skips.


NCX/Menacing Tuba says it likely skips above 87Hz here.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *electro2u*
> 
> NCX/Menacing Tuba says it likely skips above 87Hz here.


None of the 32" 1440p VA panels can overclock without skipping frames.


----------



## spypet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> None of the 32" 1440p VA panels can overclock without skipping frames.


I figured... every thread has guys like this talking out of their ass;
http://www.overclock.net/t/1492033/qnix-qx323qhd-new-monitor-discussion/170#post_23770109
and once you provoke them to prove their baseless claim - they disappear.
frame skipping is such a simple test to prove. http://www.testufo.com/#test=frameskipping
all you need is to use a low light no flash setting on any camera and you're golden.

shows my 6yo 1200p not skipping yet at 72Hz using a night or museum camera setting

*look at this korean BS video "proving" a 120hz OC - it's total nonsense:*


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> I figured... every thread has guys like this talking out of their ass;
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1492033/qnix-qx323qhd-new-monitor-discussion/170#post_23770109
> and once you provoke them to prove their baseless claim - they disappear.


I'm sooooo sorry that I forgot about the Qnix 32" VA because it is a piece of garbage which should be forgotten. It's actually hard to find monitors without the basic features (brightness controls which don't reduce the gamma and contrast, and overdrive) the Qnix 32" VA panel lacks which weren't made 10 years ago.


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I can't believe AMD dropped the DVI port from its flagship cards Fury X and Fury X2. I waited all year just to see what they bring to the table and its more then impressive and then BAM.... screwed over by engineers who think the DVI port is dead. And active adapters that work are well over or at least $100 more to add to the total cost.
> 
> I never even once, not for a minute expected to see a Enthusiast card with no DVI port. Disgusted to say the least...


It really is kinda fail ,hope that OEMs fix this...


----------



## spypet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> It really is kinda fail ,hope that OEMs fix this...


do any current 1440p 90-120Hz OC 27" korean monitors include a hdmi or dp port?


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spypet*
> 
> do any current 1440p 90-120Hz OC 27" korean monitors include a hdmi or dp port?


For what I know, no.
All of the 27" 120Hz Korean monitors use LM270WQ1 HY-2560M driver board which doesnt have HDMI or DVI and for what I know there is no replacement for it.
I have recently conducted some research on this topic and i couldnt find a single one.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> For what I know, no.
> All of the 27" 120Hz Korean monitors use LM270WQ1 HY-2560M driver board which doesnt have HDMI or DVI and for what I know there is no replacement for it.
> I have recently conducted some research on this topic and i couldnt find a single one.


Overlord monitors sells them. As well as here. And not all korean 27" 120hz monitors use these, Qnix doesnt.


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Overlord monitors sells them. As well as here. And not all korean 27" 120hz monitors use these, Qnix doesnt.


No Overlord does not sell 1440p 120Hz monitors with HDMI or DP, check again.
If it does have multiple inputs than its a 60Hz monitor.
As for emaxeon it use to sell (not anymore) the exact same driver board I was talking about-LM270WQ1 HY-2560M


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> No Overlord does not sell 1440p 120Hz monitors with HDMI or DP, check again.
> If it does have multiple inputs than its a 60Hz monitor.
> As for emaxeon it use to sell (not anymore) the exact same driver board I was talking about-LM270WQ1 HY-2560M


Not what I was saying. I was saying overlord sell the OC PCBs which was what I assumed you were referring to.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

You guys can go directly to the source if you wish. I have the source info already posted before in this thread, but here it is again.

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37901630265 (used to be $52 US)
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37925476648 (used to be $32 US)

If you go to http://www.engtaobao.com, you can paste the url of the item in this website and purchase it in a English language instead. I have not tried that though.

I do not know if the cost is higher or lower, but this seller usually has them. If you install their chat client "AliWangwang (a.k.a TradeManager)" you can communicate directly with the seller for bulk orders.


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> You guys can go directly to the source if you wish. I have the source info already posted before in this thread, but here it is again.
> 
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37901630265 (used to be $52 US)
> http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37925476648 (used to be $32 US)
> 
> If you go to http://www.engtaobao.com, you can post the url of the item and purchase it in a English website instead. I have not tried that though.
> 
> I do not know if the cost is higher or lower, but this seller usually has them. If you install their chat client "AliWangwang (a.k.a TradeManager)" you can communicate directly with the seller for bulk orders.


Nope Sanelin88 does not respond to messages I have tried multiple times.
At the end I bought the driver board from Overlord for $94 with shipping.
At yoybuy.com they told me that he is well known for not responding to orders.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> Nope Sanelin88 does not respond to messages I have tried multiple times.
> At the end I bought the driver board from Overlord for $94 with shipping.
> At yoybuy.com they told me that he is well known for not responding to orders.


Ah OK then. I didn't know that sorry. I contacted them in mid 2014 to ask him questions and they told me to use Aliwangwang, but by that time I had decided not to manufacture my own displays, lol. I thought Overlord wanted $195 for the set?


----------



## Kronin

They do, that's how much the driver board cost me, add to that $50 for logic board from China and there you go.
Overlord is the only place currently in the world where you can buy this particular driver board. Not even those Chinese that make them, have them in stock, I tried contacting them as well...
This PCMasterRase thing can really be a drag sometimes...


----------



## MaelstromOC

Do any of you know where I could purchase the rear silver plastic piece on the Yamakasi? I sold the two Yama's I owned last week and one of them suffered some damage on the back. Nothing major, just it broke the silver curved piece on the back that most people remove to get to the VESA mounting points. I told him I'd rather see if I could source one of those than try to file a claim with UPS because that mess takes FOREVER and they look for any chance to screw you over lol.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaelstromOC*
> 
> Do any of you know where I could purchase the rear silver plastic piece on the Yamakasi? I sold the two Yama's I owned last week and one of them suffered some damage on the back. Nothing major, just it broke the silver curved piece on the back that most people remove to get to the VESA mounting points. I told him I'd rather see if I could source one of those than try to file a claim with UPS because that mess takes FOREVER and they look for any chance to screw you over lol.


They're flimsy plastic pieces of junk. Mine came with a slight crack, tore it off and threw it away. Monitor looks better without it imo. Too bad if he wont take it like that.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaelstromOC*
> 
> Do any of you know where I could purchase the rear silver plastic piece on the Yamakasi? I sold the two Yama's I owned last week and one of them suffered some damage on the back. Nothing major, just it broke the silver curved piece on the back that most people remove to get to the VESA mounting points. I told him I'd rather see if I could source one of those than try to file a claim with UPS because that mess takes FOREVER and they look for any chance to screw you over lol.


Do the claim. It won't take as long as you think. They won't fight it.

Edit: Well, if the packaging was insufficient & undamaged they might.


----------



## MaelstromOC

That's my big question. Packaging was more than adequate, but the receiver told me it appears to have taken a hefty hit on one of the sides which resulted in the damage. I was under the assumption that UPS will always go and retrieve the package as part of their investigation process.

The buyer said he had no issue with the items as received since the only damage was to that silver piece (it was two small cracks toward the top as well as damage to the bottom where the mounting tabs for the silver back piece). I just wanted to attempt to find him a replacement plastic piece since I hate for anyone that buys from me to experience something like that.


----------



## Dominulf

Hello,

Everything was fine when my Catleap just shut off. The LED is not even turning on, as if it has no power.

I opened it up and reconnected everything. It's had this issue in the past a couple of times. The last time this happened I wiggled the power cord while it was connected and it turned on.

Does the monitor have some built in time delay where it will not turn on after a crash or something? The only thing I can do is wait and hope it turns on next time. Nothing looked for smelt burnt inside.

Thanks for the help


----------



## ginko

Hi guys I'm owning a Catleap 2b monitor and I successfully made it to 96 Hz. I also flashed the monitor with PowerStrip to accept only 2 Preferred Timings which first one will be native (96Hz) and second one 60Hz. The only problem is on games when I'm on clone mode with a capture card (which support 1440p at 60Hz) and the game is on fullscreen is always going back to 60Hz. I don't know what to do next...
I tried to make a custom resolution on nvidia control panel and still no effect. I also tried to flash the monitor to accept only 96Hz but I get a black screen when I start my pc. Anyone facing same problem like me ? How to make the windows to accept my native 2560x1440 96Hz resolution even on fullscreen games ?
I linked an screenshot from MonInfo with all detailed info on top of this post.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ginko*
> 
> 
> Hi guys I'm owning a Catleap 2b monitor and I successfully made it to 96 Hz. I also flashed the monitor with PowerStrip to accept only 2 Preferred Timings which first one will be native (96Hz) and second one 60Hz. The only problem is on games when I'm on clone mode with a capture card (which support 1440p at 60Hz) and the game is on fullscreen is always going back to 60Hz. I don't know what to do next...
> I tried to make a custom resolution on nvidia control panel and still no effect. I also tried to flash the monitor to accept only 96Hz but I get a black screen when I start my pc. Anyone facing same problem like me ? How to make the windows to accept my native 2560x1440 96Hz resolution even on fullscreen games ?
> I linked an screenshot from MonInfo with all detailed info on top of this post.


Try CRU, never had a problem with it.

http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


----------



## ginko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Try CRU, never had a problem with it.
> 
> http://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Custom-Resolution-Utility-CRU


Thanks! Problem is fixed now.
I got the CRU and I made a new custom extension block with it by adding the 2560x1440 96Hz and set it to native.
Also I needed the NVIDIA Pixel Clock Patcher to get my 96 Hz stable with 2 displays.


----------



## Dominulf

*Could this be why I am having power issues?*
There is *NO led light present* when I connect the monitor to power. I've reseated the cables many times.

Notice one of the 4 pins seems exposed/corroded/damaged; I don't know the proper terminology.


----------



## spypet

sorry, please delete


----------



## cvatish

Ugh... After all of the stuff from my earlier posts, and after receiving my long-awaited DP board and cables and explaining to the seller that he sent the wrong parts, I found that the seller doesn't actually stock the right parts despite the listing saying he does. So, I'm back at square one with two non-functional panels. I spent 2 months waiting for it to come in, sending photos to make sure it's compatible, all for nothing.

Anyway, now I have this DP board, new with cables (40 pin IPEX, compatible with T-Con boards that I don't have), an SDB3 panel with T-Con, and a SDC2 with T-Con (but half of the backlight burnt out on this panel). Is anyone interested in buying any of it?


----------



## doogk

Just wanted to stop by and say Ive had my Yamakasi Catleap for a couple years now and it is still going strong. Been looking for a new G-Sync monitor though so I'll be moving her aside but she was a bargain for $400 when you would have to pay $1k + for any other one.


----------



## Arkaz3

Hello I am going to be upgrading from a gtx 560 ti to an r9 390 soon but the question is the only connectors to the card is a Dual link Dvi-I not Dual link Dvi-D. Will my monitor be able to overclock back to 100hz because that is what it's currently at with my card (using dual link Dvi-D). Will a Dual link Dvi-I cable work and overclock the monitor, an adapter is required, or it just won't plain work? Thanks!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arkaz3*
> 
> Hello I am going to be upgrading from a gtx 560 ti to an r9 390 soon but the question is the only connectors to the card is a Dual link Dvi-I not Dual link Dvi-D. Will my monitor be able to overclock back to 100hz because that is what it's currently at with my card (using dual link Dvi-D). Will a Dual link Dvi-I cable work and overclock the monitor, an adapter is required, or it just won't plain work? Thanks!


It'll work, no problem. DVI-D cables works on DVI-I ports, but not the other way around. OC'ing is not relevant to this. If you have a Dvi-I cable, you may need to replace it with a DVI-d cable to insure it can plug in.


----------



## Arkaz3

Thanks for the reply! What about the 4 prongs dvi-d vs no prongs dvi-i? The graphics card only has a dvi-i and the cable the monitor came with is a dvi-d with the 4 prongs. Are you sure itll fit?


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arkaz3*
> 
> Thanks for the reply! What about the 4 prongs dvi-d vs no prongs dvi-i? The graphics card only has a dvi-i and the cable the monitor came with is a dvi-d with the 4 prongs. Are you sure itll fit?


This should clarify things:


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arkaz3*
> 
> Thanks for the reply! What about the 4 prongs dvi-d vs no prongs dvi-i? The graphics card only has a dvi-i and the cable the monitor came with is a dvi-d with the 4 prongs. Are you sure itll fit?


Yes it will fit, the cable is only Digital if its DVI-D, and the video card has both Digital and Analog outputs, as do all video cards (so you can use a VGA adapter for old school monitors). That is how it is supposed to be.



EDIT: LOL, I'm a bit late on the reply, sorry.


----------



## Teiji

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> It'll work, no problem. DVI-D cables works on DVI-I ports, but not the other way around. OC'ing is not relevant to this. If you have a Dvi-I cable, you may need to replace it with a DVI-d cable to insure it can plug in.


I was going to ask the same thing but for an EVGA GTX 980 Ti SC+ACX. Guess your reply is my answer. Thanks!


----------



## GeraltOfRivia

And here I am! Hi everybody!









This topic is just amazing, exactly what I was looking for my monitor!








I couldn't read 1099 pages, but I'll do my best to read everything I can before I ask a question!









Bye!


----------



## jubala2

I installed windows 10 and have yamakasi catleap and i cannot install the Catleap_Q270_OC.inf for the generic p2p monitor. any way for it to work on windows 10 thanks.


----------



## electro2u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jubala2*
> 
> I installed windows 10 and have yamakasi catleap and i cannot install the Catleap_Q270_OC.inf for the generic p2p monitor. any way for it to work on windows 10 thanks.


The driver doesn't actually do anything but properly identify the monitor as a Catleap.


----------



## jubala2

I thought the Catleap_Q270_OC.inf is used to overclock yamakasi catleapq270? i cant install the driver windows gave me a message saying inf does not contain digital signature information whatever that means


----------



## electro2u

Overclocking the display is independant of inf actually, on Amd it only requires a display driver patch and the cru applicatioj both from toastyx; on nvidia customizing resolutions is easier through the NVCP.

If you want to bypass the digital signature enforcement secure boot needs to be disabled and special startup mode for windows must be used to do the inf install. I havent yet upgtaded to w10 so there may be more to it.

Either way the catleap driver is not needed and windows generic monitor driver is fine.


----------



## jubala2

ok thanks


----------



## kayway

Hey is anyone selling or know where i can get a replacement pcb for my catleap Q270 SE monitor. Even an upgrade kit will suffice, ive asked green-sum and any other ebay seller but they cant supply me with one and ive checked all around google but any link i find to buy one (emaxeon.com) are dead. Im hoping someone here can help


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kayway*
> 
> Hey is anyone selling or know where i can get a replacement pcb for my catleap Q270 SE monitor. Even an upgrade kit will suffice, ive asked green-sum and any other ebay seller but they cant supply me with one and ive checked all around google but any link i find to buy one (emaxeon.com) are dead. Im hoping someone here can help


Its still listed, but I do not know if its actually available or not.

http://world.taobao.com/item/37901630265.htm?spm=a312a.7700714.0.0.hjOVGV#detail


----------



## kayway

YOUR A LIFE SAVER THANKS


----------



## kayway

Oh wait im not sure if they deliver to the UK, damn
EDIT: ah i found one that i can understand and it delivers to the UK:
http://www.offerany.com/p-37901630265.html
Would not of found it if it wasnt for the link you sent Thanks


----------



## AJCxZ0

FYI: Ultra 12FT DVI-D 24-Pin Dual-Link Video Cable free after rebate while supplies last until 10 Aug 2015. Costs $12.99 with $13.00 rebate and free shipping.


----------



## Decateron

Does anyone know if this would work as a replacement for a 2C PCB?

It has all the same ports as mine, but it looks significantly smaller.

http://world.taobao.com/item/37900375428.htm?fromSite=main&spm=a312a.7728556.w4023-2134668616.2.fPA2fG

When I say 2C, I'm referring to this image:


----------



## Decateron

Alternatively, does anyone know if I could buy the 2B Center Panel and DVI PCBs to replace my 2C parts? I woudn't mind doing that if it meant I could overclock my monitor.


----------



## t1ago

Where can this logic board to buy?

front/back


----------



## HolGORE

Hey guys,
i have a short question!
i bought an used Q270 2B Extreme OC but i cant reach the 120hz.
im wondering whether i got ripped and whether its a 2B Extreme OC edition or not.
How can i find out whether its the normal edition or not?
Thank you guys!
Greetings
Holger


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HolGORE*
> 
> Hey guys,
> i have a short question!
> i bought an used Q270 2B Extreme OC but i cant reach the 120hz.
> im wondering whether i got ripped and whether its a 2B Extreme OC edition or not.
> How can i find out whether its the normal edition or not?
> Thank you guys!
> Greetings
> Holger


How much can you reach?
Have you used correct OC tools such as ToastyX' patcher and utility?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HolGORE*
> 
> Hey guys,
> i have a short question!
> i bought an used Q270 2B Extreme OC but i cant reach the 120hz.
> im wondering whether i got ripped and whether its a 2B Extreme OC edition or not.
> How can i find out whether its the normal edition or not?
> Thank you guys!
> Greetings
> Holger


What's the Serial Number? The original Catleap 2Bs have been out of production for a number of years, so if it was "new", it would have to have been on a shelf for a while.


----------



## finaltidus

Hi guys.

Just a quick qn. I have this monitor for about 1 year odd.

I have overclocked it to 110hz using the NCP and have kept it for 1 year.

However I did not install any drivers or install any of those color profiles. I am using Windows 8.1 64bit.

Yesterday I tried to install the driver for the monitor because I heard that games will not use the higher refresh rate if the driver is not installed.
But the driver kept failing to install.

What is the problem?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

You have to install the driver in test mode since it's an unsigned driver. It's been a long time since I'v done it, I can't recall the program needed for the test mode thing. Have you tried running it without the driver? I think mine just shows as PNP LCD Monitor after updating the vid drivers last tkme and it still works fine.


----------



## finaltidus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> You have to install the driver in test mode since it's an unsigned driver. It's been a long time since I'v done it, I can't recall the program needed for the test mode thing. Have you tried running it without the driver? I think mine just shows as PNP LCD Monitor after updating the vid drivers last tkme and it still works fine.


Hi. Thanks for the reply.

Yes mine has been using the default PNP LCD monitor driver because I never install any driver since using this monitor.

But I heard that installing the driver will allow games to use the higher refresh rate on FULL SCREEN mode because apparently some of my games still defaults to 60hz when on full screen. I have to force the game to use either BORDERLESS WINDOWED or WINDOWED to run at my 110hz.

Thats why I tried to install the drivers. I did try to use the program by HyperX to force Windows to accept unsigned drivers but he only tested it for Windows 7. I am using Windows 8.1 so maybe that's the problem?

Any help on this?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

No clue, I only use mine on W7 64.

Looks like a different method for W8

http://www.howtogeek.com/167723/how-to-disable-driver-signature-verification-on-64-bit-windows-8.1-so-that-you-can-install-unsigned-drivers/


----------



## finaltidus

Should I download this driver?

http://120hz.net/showthread.php?683-Overclocking-Quick-Start-Guide

Or this driver??


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

The first link is just CRU and Pixel CLock Patcher, neither are the driver.

Here's the full folder of stuff from the W7 download, just disable the driver enforcement like in the previous post and see if you can install the Catleap .inf file per the video.

I get some "AJAX response unable to be parsed as valid JSON object" error when trying to upload the folder. Here's the Driver .inf, CRU, and Powerstrip as individual .zips

Catleap_Q270_OC_v2.zip 1k .zip file


CRU

CRU.zip 339k .zip file


Powerstrip

pstrip.zip 1316k .zip file


----------



## finaltidus

The first link has the driver link.

http://www.monitortests.com/catleap.zip

What's the difference between the 2 drivers?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Couldn't say, I just missed it when I saw your link. Can you install it after disabling the Driver Signature in W8?

Looks like yours is newer.


----------



## finaltidus

Hmm... Currently at work now.

I will try it when I get home and update you.

Thanks!!!


----------



## HolGORE

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> How much can you reach?
> Have you used correct OC tools such as ToastyX' patcher and utility?


i have installed the monitor driver, patched the AMD driver and i'm using the CRU tool.
i can reach 109 without stripes
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> What's the Serial Number? The original Catleap 2Bs have been out of production for a number of years, so if it was "new", it would have to have been on a shelf for a while.


the serial number is:
Q270SE3D2LP00


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HolGORE*
> 
> i have installed the monitor driver, patched the AMD driver and i'm using the CRU tool.
> i can reach 109 without stripes
> the serial number is:
> Q270SE3D2LP00


OK, that's not a 2B. The serial number should read Q270LED*2B*xxxxxx, the 2B being the crucial part.


----------



## electro2u

I wouldn't worry about it too much personally. I have a 2B and it tops out at 116hz. It used to do 120 but it can't do it without a few scanlines anymore.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Yeah, I'm surprised at the 109 he got. And I don't run mine at 120Hz anymore, either. I actually run 110Hz right now, so not much different than his OC. They must be putting some other boards in the SE models these days, used to the SE topped out at 67Hz IIRC.


----------



## finaltidus

Hi Guys.

I am back. And thanks GhanyCharlie I managed to install the driver.

Now reads the monitor as 'Catleap Q270 Extreme'.

More of my games now can detect the higher refresh rate at full screen at default, but still a few cannot detect and will default as 60hz.














zzzzz

What's wrong with these games?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Glad you got it installed, no idea why it doesn't run at 120 in all games. I ran 680 Lightning SLI back when I got the monitor, recently spruced that rig up with a MSI 980Ti - that's what this thing needed all along


----------



## TomcatV

Looks like an "Epic Era" is coming to an end ... The YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz IPS 1440p PC Monitor sold by green-sum *HERE* says there is only one left at any price ... IMHO this monitor should already be in the Hall-of-Fame for really jumpstarting the whole overclocked refresh rate craz! Good times ... salute!


----------



## finaltidus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> Glad you got it installed, no idea why it doesn't run at 120 in all games. I ran 680 Lightning SLI back when I got the monitor, recently spruced that rig up with a MSI 980Ti - that's what this thing needed all along


Haha yeah. Still on my humble Zotac GTX 970. I need 2 Dual-Link DVI output card as I have a secondary monitor Dell U2410.

Nowadays most cards don't have 2 DVI outputs anymore.


----------



## finaltidus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Looks like an "Epic Era" is coming to an end ... The YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 "2B Extreme OC" 120Hz IPS 1440p PC Monitor sold by green-sum *HERE* says there is only one left at any price ... IMHO this monitor should already be in the Hall-of-Fame for really jumpstarting the whole overclocked refresh rate craz! Good times ... salute!


Yeah this is the best monitor ever. Too bad I only knew and finally got this monitor 6 months ago.

Pray very hard that it will continue to last for a very long time.


----------



## Gameface

Anyone know what type of cable the blue and white one in this picture is? The one that says '12-pin' in the description.

http://img04.taobaocdn.com/imgextra/i4/651732152/T2AjldXmYMBJNXXXXX_!!651732152.jpg

I've had my Catleap for nearly three years and it's always had the flashing green light issue, but now it's refusing to switch on no matter what I do. Taking it apart, I've noticed the cable in the picture above is fragmented at one end (missing a contact too), so I figure before buying an entire replacement board (if I can find one) I can try a new one of these first.


----------



## HatallaS

Is this a glossy finish panel?
How is it in FPS regarding input lag?


----------



## Zahix

Does anyone know a monitor listing on ebay (or elsewhere) that contains the LM270WQ1 SLA1 panel? It is the glossy panel on the Catleap 2B and the Overlord Tempest X27OC. I see many glossy 27" QHD monitors but I'm not sure they got the SLA1 panel. I currently have an OC kit and looking for a glossy LG 27" QHD compatible panel to make my 2nd DIY overclockable monitor. So if it's just the panel being sold I'm ok with it. Any useful info would be appreciated.


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> Does anyone know a monitor listing on ebay (or elsewhere) that contains the LM270WQ1 SLA1 panel? It is the glossy panel on the Catleap 2B and the Overlord Tempest X27OC. I see many glossy 27" QHD monitors but I'm not sure they got the SLA1 panel. I currently have an OC kit and looking for a glossy LG 27" QHD compatible panel to make my 2nd DIY overclockable monitor. So if it's just the panel being sold I'm ok with it. Any useful info would be appreciated.


What do you exactly have in that OC kit?


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> What do you exactly have in that OC kit?


SLA1 TCON,2 LVDS cables, Input PCB (DVI and power) and buttons PCB.


----------



## Kronin

Aha thats that OC kit from Overlord Computers right?
Well I upgraded my Achieva Shimian 27"2560x1440 to 120 Hz (it can work even at 130hz) using those parts so I would say that you are safe to try.


----------



## Zahix

Do you know the model number of your panel when you disassembled the monitor?
edit: is it true glossy?


----------



## Kronin

Its LM270WQ1 panel, thats all you need to know.
Dont you see me recording in the monitor reflection?


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kronin*
> 
> Its LM270WQ1 panel, thats all you need to know.
> Dont you see me recording in the monitor reflection?


There are many variants for the LM270WQ1 with different coatings and different color presets. It would be pretty stupid if I just wanted this bit of info. Some glossy monitors on the market aren't true glossy but matte with tempered glass over them.


----------



## piee

SmarterGlass.com has them for North America, just have to somehow contact them.


----------



## piee

3 NEW IN box overlord tempests, 2 glossy 1 antiglare 325 ebay.


----------



## Zahix

Doesn't ship outside the US...


----------



## VeritasSapere

I was thinking of buying the YAMAKASI 301 SPARTA. However I wanted to confirm here first whether this screen had a glass/glossy screen or matte. I really wanted to find a glossy 16:10 IPS screen, I was hoping I might have finally found it here.


----------



## MenacingTuba

There are no glossy 30" monitors, 30" IPS suck compared to the 27" 1440p options and the 30" with glass have glass placed over top of grainy matte coatings which completely destroys the perceived black depth as well as vastly increases the reflectivity.

left glass versus matte:



The Crossover 2795 QHD (read this) by far the best Korean monitor available right now.


----------



## VeritasSapere

Thank you this is exactly what I needed to know, so which Yamakasi monitor would I then need for a real glass/glossy IPS?

Another brand would be fine as well, I thought Yamakasi had such monitors however, I am determined to find a glass/glossy IPS, please recommend one if you are aware of a monitor that has these characteristics.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> Thank you this is exactly what I needed to know, so which Yamakasi monitor model would I then need for a real glass/glossy IPS?


None. The discontinued overclock-able glossy Yamakasi Catleap Q270 from 2012 is the only decent monitor Yamakasi has made. If you want a monitor with glass the Crossover 27QW Sakwa (single input non-overclock-able), Zevroid Z27QU (fancier version of the Crossover 27QW DP with multiple inputs) and glossy Crossover 2720MDP/2730MD are the only decent options, but the 2720+30 use S-IPS panels which suffer from far more glow than the 27QW and Zevroid.

The 27QW and 27QU use Plasma Deposition Coating (



) while the 2720MDP/2730MD are glossy.


----------



## VeritasSapere

Thank you, I presently have a LG 24EB23 which suffers from IPS glow which I personally strongly dislike so I will avoid S-IPS. It does seem like the Plasma Deposition coating might strike a good balance and would give a similar effect compared to a glossy monitor. I will most likely get the 27QU within the next few days, thank you for this information it is rather invaluable. If anyone else has any other suggestions that you think would be superior to this monitor it would be much appreciated.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Zalcom-Zevroid-27QU-27-Computer-Monitor-AH-IPS-HDMI-2560x1440-Perfect-Pixel-/121466110185?hash=item1c47f1c0e9

I was hoping that a glossy panel would give deeper blacks and reduce the effect of the IPS glow. The video you linked seems to say that the blacks would not be as deep compared to a glossy monitor? That concerns me somewhat, however I am not fond of IPS glow either. It is a tough choice, I suppose it would also depend on how bad the IPS glow is as well.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> I was hoping that a glossy panel would give deeper blacks and reduce the effect of the IPS glow.


A glossy panel will only significantly increase a monitors perceived black depth when it comes into contact with a lot of light, which can also hide IPS glow if there's a enough of it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> The video you linked seems to say that the blacks would not be as deep compared to a glossy monitor?


This is correct, and it's the result of the glass covered black bezel. Glossy black, matte black and glass covered black bezels decrease monitors perceived black depth while matte grey and white bezels increase displays perceived black depth. A bias light (bright light placed behind the monitor) will vastly increase a monitors perceived black depth, especially if all other light sources are turned off or blocked.


__
https://flic.kr/p/xNdNY9
 (from my Crossover 434K review): From left to right: Glossy Crossover 2720MDP (1440p S-IPS), Semi-Glossy Crossover 434K (4K AH-IPS), Wasabi Mango QHD277 Universal with Plasma Deposition Coating (1440p AH-IPS).

Side note/warning: Most multi-input Korean monitors do not have proper brightness controls (read this), and some (the Wasabi Mango from my above comparison does, as does the Crossover 27QW HDMI) even raise the gamma as well as ruin the contrast when the brightness is lowered. The Crossover 27QW DP, 2720MDP, 2730MD and Zevroid 27QU have proper brightness controls, but most do not.


----------



## VeritasSapere

Since the plasma deposition coating would lead to having less deep blacks, and the other two monitors you suggested suffer from significant IPS glow, they both do not seem like very appealing options. I was thinking of getting the Samsung S27B970D instead. Considering that it has a proper glossy screen and it uses an IPS panel. I was wondering if this would be a good choice instead, or if anyone else has any better suggestions.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-S27B970D-27-LED-Wide-Monitor-WQHD-2560x1440-Smart-Monior-PLS-/230931301802?hash=item35c49405aa


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> Since the plasma deposition coating would lead to having less deep blacks, and the other two monitors you suggested suffer from significant IPS glow, they both do not seem like very appealing options. I was thinking of getting the Samsung S27B970D instead. Considering that it has a proper glossy screen and it uses an IPS panel. I was wondering if this would be a good choice instead, or if anyone else has any better suggestions.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Samsung-S27B970D-27-LED-Wide-Monitor-WQHD-2560x1440-Smart-Monior-PLS-/230931301802?hash=item35c49405aa


Thats an old monitor (2012) that is out-performed by many displays today at less than half the price. TBH, its scandalous to be still going for $1200 today. It uses a PLS glossy panel which I believe are the same as the originial Qnix glossies that were going for $350 or so a year or two back.

Secondly its performance is sub-par by todays standards (review). Poor blacks and poor contrast ratios after calibration. I would take a good PDC coated ah-ips over that.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> Since the plasma deposition coating would lead to having less deep blacks, and the other two monitors you suggested suffer from significant IPS glow, they both do not seem like very appealing options. I was thinking of getting the Samsung S27B970D instead. Considering that it has a proper glossy screen and it uses an IPS panel. I was wondering if this would be a good choice instead, or if anyone else has any better suggestions.


The 970D has glass placed over top of a matte coating (it's the monitor on the left in the picture I posted in my first response) and sucks compared to what is available now. Plasma Deposition Coating is vastly superior to regular glass.


----------



## VeritasSapere

Would the PDC coated AH-IPS have better blacks and less IPS glow compared to the S27B970D?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> Would the PDC coated AH-IPS have better blacks compared to the S27B970D? Also would the glossy Crossover 2720MDP/2730MD have better blacks and less IPS glow compared to the S27B970D?


Every non-glass display easily beats the 970D; glass without an anti-reflective coating is the worst thing one can put on a display, and the 970D has higher and input lag and more ghosting than most of the newer 1440p monitors. For 1300$ you could buy and de-matte an Asus MG279Q along with a powerful AMD graphics card.

Glass 970D versus glossy 2720MDP (white bar on the bottom is the windows task bar; picture is from 2012)


I have many more coating comparison pictures but I'm not allowed to post them here. Check out my Crossover 434K review's semi-glossy section to find them.


----------



## drazah

Anyone have any thoughts on the refurbished *2703* 27' 2560X1440 IPS Monitor off ebay for $199? I was looking to spend about $150 to replace one of my secondary monitors to strictly have a movie monitor and saw this on ebay. Any thoughts? (I cant search thread because my work internet prohibits and blocks it, sorry)


----------



## VeritasSapere

I have decided that I would prefer to avoid any monitors which have plasma deposition coating thanks to some of the comments you have made on the subject.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1497589/which-27-1440p-korean-monitor-has-the-most-vivid-colors

This is why I have decided that I do definitely want a glossy screen as opposed to one with PDC. I have spotted some IPS YAMAKASI Q270 that are still available for me to purchase. which leads me to my next question, which is better the YAMAKASI Q270 or the crossover 2720MDP/2730MD. I was also wondering which monitor would suffer from the least IPS glow.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> I have decided that I would prefer to avoid any monitors which have plasma deposition coating thanks to some of the comments you have made on the subject.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1497589/which-27-1440p-korean-monitor-has-the-most-vivid-colors
> 
> This is why I have decided that I do definitely want a glossy screen as opposed to one with PDC. I have spotted some IPS YAMAKASI Q270 that are still available for me to purchase. which leads me to my next question, which is better the YAMAKASI Q270 or the crossover 2720MDP/2730MD. I was also wondering which monitor would suffer from the least IPS glow.


If you saw a good PDC coated monitor you my change your mind. The blacks are not that bad, it may vary from one unit or model to the next. Its mostly noticeable only when you put a monitor with very good blacks next to it. But in measurements they are not that far off vs other competing monitors. If they were as bad as in NCXs vids/pics, Apple would not be using PDC in their displays. Most of Apples displays are PDC. As an owner of a Q270 (2b PCB) and a Qnix QX2710 as well as a PDC monitor (DS270), the latter is my favorite in terms of overall image quality. There is (supposedly) an improved PDC display with better blacks which is the Crossover Sakwa. If you like the Apple glossy look, this is basically it at a fraction of the cost of the Apple. 



.

Re the Q270 (regular, not overclockable version which is not longer available I believe) vs the Crossover 2720MDP, I would go for the latter as its a better quality multi-input unit that has proper brightness controls (does not severely impact contrast like other multi-input korean units tend to do).


----------



## MenacingTuba

Apple still sells Cinema and Thunderbolt displays with regular glass for 1000$...PDC black depth highly relies on viewing position and room lighting. A monitor with PDC looks fine if placed in a very bright room or in a dark room with a bright bias light behind it as long as the displays brightness isn't cranked, but most people keep the brightness cranked and have horrible 2700-3000k lights. I made a coating comparison compilation recently with the same light (very bright 2600 lumen 6500k/Daylight Philips CFL) with the monitors all set to 140cdm/2:

__
https://flic.kr/p/zim8ik
 From left to bottomt right: almost-glossy (new 1% haze coating) HP 27CW, Semi-Glossy Crossover 434K, glossy Crossover 2720MDP with custom painted bezel and Wasabi Mango QHD277 Universal with PDC (it doesn't have proper brightness controls but I am fortunate enough to get a panel with 190cdm/2 brightness instead of one stuck at 350cdm/2).

The glossy 27" 1440p S-IPS monitors have the same amount of glow, and the 2720MDP/2730MD have a frame of input lag, but they also have a menu with colour controls and will work with other devices unlike the single input Q270.

PDC is also my favorite coating, but I've had bad luck with the monitors which use it since my former 2755AMG had lots of bleed and my Wasabi Mango QHD277 Universal lacks proper brightness controls and has high input lag (33ms).


----------



## VeritasSapere

I have to admit I was tempted to purchase a cinema or thunderbolt display, much to my own dismay. However you have convinced me, I will get the Zevroid Z27QU which as far as I understand is the same as the Crossover 27QW Sakwa but with a few more features as far as I understand it. Which means that the Z27QU will have a very glossy display like the 27QW Sakwa, however please correct me if I am wrong.

I will post here when I receive it, let everyone know what I think, I will be using it in a mainly dark room, primarily for gaming. If you do not think it is suitable for this please say so, I have very much appreciated your help in figuring this stuff out, it is a bit overwhelming at first attempting to find the perfect monitor.


----------



## VeritasSapere

Alright, so I was about to purchase the 27QW Sakwa since it has had favourable reviews and the zalcom does seem like more of an unkown and therefore more of a risk. However I started to become somewhat confused between the difference between these two monitors:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-27-SAKWA-LED-QHD-27inch-Computer-Monitor-/161771589554?hash=item25aa568fb2
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-Perfect-Pixel-Crossover-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-AH-IPS-/141160328887?hash=item20ddcfaeb7

Is there any difference between these two monitors? If they are the same I would prefer to purchase the perfect pixel version, however I am unsure whether these two monitors are truly identical and whether the sakwa designation in this case is significant or not.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *VeritasSapere*
> 
> Alright, so I was about to purchase the 27QW Sakwa since it has had favourable reviews and the zalcom does seem like more of an unkown and therefore more of a risk. However I started to become somewhat confused between the difference between these two monitors:
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Crossover-27-SAKWA-LED-QHD-27inch-Computer-Monitor-/161771589554?hash=item25aa568fb2
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-27-Perfect-Pixel-Crossover-27QW-IPS-LED-2560x1440-QHD-Monitor-DVI-D-AH-IPS-/141160328887?hash=item20ddcfaeb7
> 
> Is there any difference between these two monitors? If they are the same I would prefer to purchase the perfect pixel version, however I am unsure whether these two monitors are truly identical and whether the sakwa designation in this case is significant or not.


I believe the sakwa is more recent and may be an improved version of the 27QW. NCX says it "should be purchased over the 27QW", although he doesnt explain why. I know there have been some QA complaints on it @ Newegg, so maybe the sakwa addresses these.There is also the 27QW DP which has additional inputs and is also supposed to be good but costs more. A Russian review for it is in the above link.

P.S. I noticed your ebay link to the sakwa is not from a well known seller. I would go with dreamseller or one of the other big names.


----------



## MenacingTuba

The Sakwa is an updated version of the 27QW which likely has better colour preset since Crossover usually improves their displays each year. The original version of the 27QW had low average gamma (1.9-2.0 average according to =DEAD='s review which I link to in my WCGT thread) while the multi-input versions averaged around 2.2 allowing them to display colours more vibrant and accurately.


----------



## VeritasSapere

It seemed like there where not many of the Sakwa monitors left anymore, I could not find any of the 27QW multi inputs either. Having deep blacks is important to me, and I really would like to avoid any glow as well. So I have decided to get the LG27MB85R. Hoping the glow will be minimal and the colors still vibrant being a "semi glossy" panel. Thank you very much for your help here it has been much appreciated, I will let you know what I think of the monitor when it arrives.


----------



## Kently

Well, after almost 3.5 years of ownership, my Catleap seems to have finally bit the dust. I came home from work this morning and started up my computer, and only my secondary 900p monitor turned on. The catleap suffers from a blinking green light. I changed out the dual link dvi cable. I cycled power to it, I attempted to use another port, and nothing has succeeded. According to internets, I might be able to pull the thing apart and tighten some internals, but I won't have time to even try that for some time to come. I guess 3 years is decent for a monitor, though my secondary one has served faithfully since 2007.


----------



## Ferling

Has anyone found out if we can convert this monitors DVI-D to HDMI?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kently*
> 
> I guess 3 years is decent for a monitor, though my secondary one has served faithfully since 2007.


Yeah, my Dell UltraSharp 1200p has served me since 2006, and it was mounted a full year inside the cab of a Semi Truck, lol. Still no issues what so ever with it but its also my secondary sitting next to my home-brewed Catleap. Hope you get it fixed or replaced easily.

Here is an option if your interested and OK with 60hz.
Buy this, its a new 1440p display, same kind as yours but intended for HP as a warranty replacement screen, and its only $105. It comes with a brand new SDDB Display (DP type) board already installed onto the display. You then just need a input board that will work with your new displays board.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-NEW-HP-Z1-AIO-WORKSTATION-LG-LCD-LM270WQ1-SD-DB-27-INCH-671197-001-/252040231711

Here is the DisplayPort input board that works with the SDDB that is attached to the display, and its only $73. This is how you will connect it to your computers DP port. This is the cheapest way to fix your 1440p that I know of. Sorry
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Board-for-27inch-2560-1440-LM270WQ1-SDA2-SDC1-SDC2-LM270WQ1-SDDA-SDDB-/400995853736

And yes, finding/figuring out the proper mounting method for the input boards in your catleaps structure will be the real work.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling*
> 
> Has anyone found out if we can convert this monitors DVI-D to HDMI?


Not that I am aware of. But using the info I gave above you can convert it to DisplayPort easy enough though but it will be 60hz only then. I guess you need it to be HDMI?


----------



## Ferling

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Not that I am aware of. But using the info I gave above you can convert it to DisplayPort easy enough though but it will be 60hz only then. I guess you need it to be HDMI?


Yes, HDMI is preferred for the laptop I will be purchasing only has that output.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling*
> 
> Yes, HDMI is preferred for the laptop I will be purchasing only has that output.


Yeah that is an expensive conversion type. I have never seen hardware for these 1440p's that is HDMI based. They were all DP or DVI based as far as I can tell.


----------



## Kently

In a rather crazy turn of events, it appears that my catleap is not, in fact, dead. That said, it will not work at all outside of safe mode when proper Nvidia drivers are installed on my GTX 670. I am perplexed, annoyed, and relieved all at the same time.

*edit*
I've got no idea what's going on. I've never seen anything even remotely like this. Usually a monitor just works, or it just doesn't.
My catleap shows the bios splash screen. In safe mode it displays a resolution of 1600x1200. I have a GTX 670 and an on-board Intel HD4000. Neither graphics card detects the monitor, or will display on it outside of safe mode.

I attempted to use the monitor on another computer that has an ATI/AMD graphics card, and it displayed nothing until the OS loaded, at which point it displayed a frozen(mostly, the 'installing driver' icon on the bottom right, for the mouse i'd plugged in, was moving) desktop. No keyboard inputs or mouse inputs worked. I'm at a complete and utter loss. I think the monitor is somehow half-dead. What a tease...


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Buy a new dual DVI-D cable and try that. Also burn a live OS to usb and see if you can see the monitor then. Windows or Linux it wont matter.

By the way, that amd card and the monitor. It is perfectly normal for some cards to not show any video until the OS drivers load. I been using a 5870 this whole time and I have yet to see any video before the OS loads. That's why I keep my Dell connected so I can see the bios screen. Lol


----------



## KuDoZ83

If it does turn out to be dead, would love to see a pic of the TCON board and LVDS cable... be interested in buying them off you (as I'd assume it probably the controller board that's screwing up)


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuDoZ83*
> 
> If it does turn out to be dead, would love to see a pic of the TCON board and LVDS cable... be interested in buying them off you (as I'd assume it probably the controller board that's screwing up)


Post #46 of my how to thread shows some pics, probably many more pics throughout the thread as well. And I do not have any parts for sale.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1521614/build-an-overclockable-monitor-1440p-ips-grade-a-60hz-96hz-for-under-250/40#post_23110677


----------



## KuDoZ83

I'm referring to Kently's post mate. I'm asking about pics as I have two of these and oddly they used a different TCON, power board and LVDS despite using the same controller.


----------



## Kently

'Tis indeed dead. I'll get pictures of the boards when I have some free time to disassemble everything. Thanks for the help. I will miss that monitor...


----------



## dougcbj

I wanted to pop in here to say, I still love my Yamakasi that I bought in 2012. Still running strong with zero pixel or any other issues for over 3 years now :thumb:These are quality monitors!


----------



## Kently

Here are the requested pictures.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kently*
> 
> Here are the requested pictures.


If you want, you can replace that 60hz 14ms TCON (SDE2) with a SDA2 TCON board. Then just get a DP input board "kit" that matches SDA2 and your done. But you will need a DisplayPort cable then.

Input Board kit for SDA2 TCON - http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Board-for-27inch-2560-1440-LM270WQ1-SDA2-SDC1-SDC2-LM270WQ1-SDDA-SDDB/400995853736
LM270WQ1-SDA2 TCON Source - http://www.aliexpress.com/item/original-For-apple-iMAC-27-inch-LM270WQ1-SDA2-LM270WQ1-SDA2-6870C-0301A-LCD-logic-board/32435320783.html

Consider SDE2 as the same as SDE3. I can not find any info on the E2 that you have, but it is more than likely the same as E3. All the parts needed are avail for fixing that monitor imo.

http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/articles/monitor_panel_parts.htm (this list of known part numbers can help)


----------



## Marcsrx

Hi guys.

Anyone know if OC instructions are the same for Win10 x64. I have an EVGA 980 Ti and will be using latest WHQL driver.


----------



## MonitorFan

MCM Electronics is now stocking the Catleap Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/58-17775, a decent warranty and no more ordering from Korea !


----------



## TomcatV

Hey guys I've been in touch with the people that acquired Scribby's Overlord bankruptcy stock ... And finally after several month's the original Overlord (Cat2B) overclock kits are available at a very reasonable price of $107.50









http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-IPS-27-Overclock-Monitor-PCB-Set-w-TCON-DVI-Cables-/182052593563?hash=item2a632e1f9b

This is it guys, last of the parts for the greatest gaming monitor price/performance that ever lived! ... well along with my now dead Sony FW900 and my original L02 QNIX "True" glossy (no longer available either). I've had the Swift PG278Q (side by side) and have seen the XB270HU in person and their picture quality was utter junk in comparison, especially for $800+ ... AUOptronics AHVA high end gaming monitor panels are a "Fail" in my book and until OLED comes out I will stick with my overclockable Koreans for the near future!


----------



## blenny

I desperately need some help repairing a catleap with a broken back light. The monitor works fine except no backlight









Details:
Panel: LM270WQ1
Control Board: HY-2560M_DP_M Rev.03


I've managed to narrow down the issue with the control board by swapping panels with a functioning catleap.
The broken board appears to supply power to the backlight LEDS just fine (23V) but it appears as though some sort of 'on' signal travels along the LCD Module connector ( FI-X30SSL-HF ) to the LED panel (See specs here http://lcdtech.info/download/specs/LG%20Display/LM270WQ1%20(SD)(A2).pdf).

I did some basic diagnostics on the FI-X30SSL-HF but couldn't get any readings. I've seen that is common for the panel to require a 3.3V signal before it turns the backlight on (



).

So, I suspect this can be fixed in two ways:
1. Buy a new control board (not sure where from)
2. Somehow directly connect the the FI-X30SSL-HF (maybe pin 30?) to 3.3V to jump start the back-light.

Any input would be greatly appreciated.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

So the panel actually worked after switching to a known working board? If so see the post just before yours. Complete kits with newer revs.


----------



## blenny

Yep, panel works fine with another board.

Buying a new board is the backup plan - the best solution would be to send the 3.3V 'on' signal down the LCD module connector.
I suspect the downside of this would mean the backlight would be always on (even if there is no DVI plugged in) but this doesn't concern me.
Was really hoping someone had done this before.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

If you have already isolated the 3.3v circuits responsible for turning on the LEDs then just get a cheap unused power supply and a toggle switch and wire it up bypassing the pcb.

https://www.demasled.us/3v-2a-6w-power-supply-plug-wall-type-driver-adapter-electricity-converter-regulated-dc-electric-source-led-light-ultra-bright-component

Have you tried reseating all the connections? Maybe there is a bad connection on one of the ribbon cables.


----------



## blenny

Ribbon cable and connection is fine.

There pinouts for the LED module can be seen below.


I'm not quite sure which pin corresponds to the LED on signal (or the structure of the signal). Pin 30 for example says '3.3V for DP TCON power' but it seems pretty difficult to determine what that (or the other 30 pins) actually do.

Once I can work that out it should be easy enough to connect it to a 3.3V circuit.


----------



## OCopsimath

Just bought one of these second hand off Clist. Still worked but required warm up--E3 board with eDP ribbon connector to the blue DVI/power interface board. I saw TomcatV's post and purchased the kit. Installed it and everything runs and looks better, and it overclocks now.

Read about half the posts on this forum and on the repair and build your own 1440p forum. Just wanted to post my appreciation to }SkOrPn--' ,TomcatV, the OP and all the others who posted info and photos on here. Thanks to you all I landed a 1440p OC monitor (albeit used) for less than $150.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *OCopsimath*
> 
> Just bought one of these second hand off Clist. Still worked but required warm up--E3 board with eDP ribbon connector to the blue DVI/power interface board. I saw TomcatV's post and purchased the kit. Installed it and everything runs and looks better, and it overclocks now.
> 
> Read about half the posts on this forum and on the repair and build your own 1440p forum. Just wanted to post my appreciation to }SkOrPn--' ,TomcatV, the OP and all the others who posted info and photos on here. Thanks to you all I landed a 1440p OC monitor (albeit used) for less than $150.


Very Nice! +Rep for reporting back









I'm also curious what exact "Model" of monitor you rebuilt?
What overclock were you able to reach with the refresh rate ... 96Hz / 120Hz?
And did you take any pics of the procedure?


----------



## OCopsimath

Alas, I did not take any photos--they would be identical to several others such as Kently's boards posted a couple of weeks back, though in his case, minus the audio--no speakers. It's a Yamakasi Q270LED SE, Serial prefix of Q270SE2G3(from the Witech sticker on the rear of the enclosure), and the seller said he bought the perfect pixel version. The panel sticker from LG shows SDE3, so I spent about a week reading up and looking at all the parts before I ordered the new pcbs. The monitor actually had two problems, both seemingly heat related: the first was the ~5 minutes warm up, the second was the distortion/lines after some time at full brightness (solved by turning the brightness down, which I do anyway). I took off the rear support arch to open up more vents for cooling. When I took it apart I was suprised at how flimsy the enclosure seemed--I may have to do something about that.

With the new boards I was able to clock to 96 hz without any real testing but the difference was immediately apparent. Not wanting to tax my single gtx 970 during games, I turned it down to 84hz and noticed little difference from 96. I have yet to see what other games will look like, but metro last light was far more responsive and fluid than at 60hz (though my cpu cooler fans turned into hairdryers, even more so than usual). If I have some time this weekend I will setup my camera and see if I can do some actual testing using those videos posted for that purpose.


----------



## klamyo

Can someone please help me?

I bought a dvi-d 25ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable from Monoprice to replace the original cable that came with the monitor. I get fuzzy, hardly readable text/image on the screen at 1440p. If I put the original cable, I have no problem with same resolution.

If I choose 1080p to test (even if it's not optimum resolution), it's readable but still not as clear as the original cable. Should I return the cable and ask for a replacement? Actually the cable is acting as if I plugged a Single Link dvi. Is the cable too long?


----------



## korr2221

i have the yamasaki 2703 and msi gtx 750 ti ....... and only got up to 64hz....... anything beyond that my screen doesn't respond and have to press the esc to get out of it.


----------



## korr2221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klamyo*
> 
> Can someone please help me?
> 
> I bought a dvi-d 25ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable from Monoprice to replace the original cable that came with the monitor. I get fuzzy, hardly readable text/image on the screen at 1440p. If I put the original cable, I have no problem with same resolution.
> 
> If I choose 1080p to test (even if it's not optimum resolution), it's readable but still not as clear as the original cable. Should I return the cable and ask for a replacement? Actually the cable is acting as if I plugged a Single Link dvi. Is the cable too long?


yes get another cable, it may be the length of the cable that is causing the problem too


----------



## klamyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korr2221*
> 
> yes get another cable, it may be the length of the cable that is causing the problem too


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klamyo*
> 
> Can someone please help me?
> 
> I bought a dvi-d 25ft 24AWG CL2 Dual Link DVI-D Cable from Monoprice to replace the original cable that came with the monitor. I get fuzzy, hardly readable text/image on the screen at 1440p. If I put the original cable, I have no problem with same resolution.
> 
> If I choose 1080p to test (even if it's not optimum resolution), it's readable but still not as clear as the original cable. Should I return the cable and ask for a replacement? Actually the cable is acting as if I plugged a Single Link dvi. Is the cable too long?


What's the max length of dvi cable people have used here without any extension?


----------



## korr2221

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *klamyo*
> 
> What's the max length of dvi cable people have used here without any extension?


not sure but...

http://www.datapro.net/techinfo/dvi_info.html
"The official DVI specification mandates that all DVI equipment must maintain a signal at 5 meters (16 feet) in length. But many manufacturers are putting out much stronger cards and bigger monitors, so the maximum length possible is never exact
In-house tests on varying equipment have produced strong signals up to 9 and 10 meters long. Tests at 12 meters generally resulted in signal noise and an unusuable image on the display, and anything longer rendered no image at all. "

http://www.lindy.co.uk/tips/DVIGuide.html
'With standard DVI cables you can extend the distance for digital monitors, with fixed cables and connections, by up to 7.5m. For distances greater than 7.5m, special low attenuation cables are recommended to provide satisfactory results.

maybe you need a signal booster on it


----------



## klamyo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *korr2221*
> 
> not sure but...
> 
> http://www.datapro.net/techinfo/dvi_info.html
> "The official DVI specification mandates that all DVI equipment must maintain a signal at 5 meters (16 feet) in length. But many manufacturers are putting out much stronger cards and bigger monitors, so the maximum length possible is never exact
> In-house tests on varying equipment have produced strong signals up to 9 and 10 meters long. Tests at 12 meters generally resulted in signal noise and an unusuable image on the display, and anything longer rendered no image at all. "
> 
> http://www.lindy.co.uk/tips/DVIGuide.html
> 'With standard DVI cables you can extend the distance for digital monitors, with fixed cables and connections, by up to 7.5m. For distances greater than 7.5m, special low attenuation cables are recommended to provide satisfactory results.
> 
> maybe you need a signal booster on it


Thanks for the reply, I think i'll stick to 10ft max for safe distance. I guess that means no monitor in the living room


----------



## kayway

Hey guys, lost the hand screws that are meant to be screwed on below the swivel platform. Any idea where i can buy a replacement?


----------



## ilgello

Can someone please re-upload the Color profiles, I tried OP and another link from March but "file not found", Thanks!


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilgello*
> 
> Can someone please re-upload the Color profiles, I tried OP and another link from March but "file not found", Thanks!


Some profiles of my own, @ 6480k, 6500k and 6550k.

http://www.megafileupload.com/e81u/catleap.rar


----------



## ilgello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> Some profiles of my own, @ 6480k, 6500k and 6550k.
> 
> http://www.megafileupload.com/e81u/catleap.rar


Thanks a lot, will try them in the next couple of days









Now I have to figure out why on reboot I have to unplug/plug the monitor as I just get a black screen each time I load up Windows/Debian otherwise


----------



## futr_vision

Ooh. I have an older Yamakasi with DVI-D ports. These monitors can be converted to DP. What's the downside to doing that? I've wanted to run 3 monitors on one PC but the converters were either not available or too expensive.


----------



## ilgello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilgello*
> 
> Thanks a lot, will try them in the next couple of days
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now I have to figure out why on reboot I have to unplug/plug the monitor as I just get a black screen each time I load up Windows/Debian otherwise


Still haven't found a solution on black screen after pc load Windows...


----------



## jaihenwood

I just started getting the blinking green light after 2+ years of use =/

I tired:
Re installing driver but i have a GTX 970 that has been working for years.
I got a new DVI cable and still blinking.

I'm ready to do the next step " Loose wiring inside the unit (DVI connection to Panel PCB connection.)" but i don't know what a PCB connections is.

I got my monitor apart what wires do i need to check? The DVI connector is attached to the PCB board right?

My computer recognizes when my monitor is plugged in but i just see a black screen and the green blinking light.

Thanks for any help.


----------



## jaihenwood

To replace this monitor what is the go to deal like we found years ago on this one?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jaihenwood*
> 
> I just started getting the blinking green light after 2+ years of use =/
> 
> I tired:
> Re installing driver but i have a GTX 970 that has been working for years.
> I got a new DVI cable and still blinking.
> 
> I'm ready to do the next step " Loose wiring inside the unit (DVI connection to Panel PCB connection.)" but i don't know what a PCB connections is.
> 
> I got my monitor apart what wires do i need to check? The DVI connector is attached to the PCB board right?
> 
> My computer recognizes when my monitor is plugged in but i just see a black screen and the green blinking light.
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *jaihenwood*
> 
> To replace this monitor what is the go to deal like we found years ago on this one?
Click to expand...

I'm going to assume you have a Cat2B and it was overclocked









1) One step you forgot is to check is your power brick, especially if it was running hot to the touch, it should be replaced.

2) If your power brick is good, and have checked all internal panel/PCB connections are good, your in luck because just a couple months ago the original PCB overclock kits became available again from Overlords bankruptcy stock ... Many a Cat2B has been resurected with this kit and it's a steal @$107 ... http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-IPS-27-Overclock-Monitor-PCB-Set-w-TCON-DVI-Cables-/181982550293?hash=item2a5f015915:g:9bQAAOSwiwVWSlc3 ... read the reviews if you doubt compatibility









3) The most favored replacement monitor now is the Crossover 2795 (see thread *HERE*) because QNIX has changed a few things and most of them now have PWM diming. The 2795 is on sale right now @ $289 but it only comes in a matte panel and it's very rare that they reach 120Hz OC, but all of them seem to hit 96Hz no problem. ... Go with green-sum vs dream-seller trust me









http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-CROSSOVER-2795-QHD-AHIPS-LED-27-2560X1440-LG-IPS-Monitor-Matte-/141740633783?hash=item2100666eb7:g:RY0AAOSw~gRVxtXn

4) If PWM diming isn't a problem for you and you want a glossy and a better chance to hit 120Hz then go with the QNIX ... @$220 http://www.ebay.com/itm/QNIX-QX2710-LED-Evolution-ll-Glossy-27-2560x1440-SAMSUNG-PLS-Panel-PC-Monitor-/111482846269?hash=item19f4e53c3d:g:ZSoAAMXQDfdRtY7e ... just make sure it is the OC single-input PLS model and be sure about your PWM concerns ...

Hope that helps


----------



## ilgello

So the issue with monitor going off when windows starts it's an nvidia drivers issue... Will try to contact them and get it somewhat looked at (good luck to me)


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilgello*
> 
> So the issue with monitor going off when windows starts it's an nvidia drivers issue... Will try to contact them and get it somewhat looked at (good luck to me)


I have this monitor + Nvidia card and do not have this issue.


----------



## 22-Faces

I ran into the same issue with my Q270 last year but wasn't able to try a new cable till today, same problem where it works for bios and at the windows loading screen but as soon as it finishes loading the green light blinks, like it doesn't recognize it, I also uninstalled the nVidia drivers but it didn't so squat.
Does that sound like the control board is bad? I previously checked all the internal connections and they were fine btw.


----------



## ilgello

Nvidia is aware of the problem and is looking into it, blued what card do you have? It seems affecting 980/980ti from what I gathered (I would say probably 970 too).


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

I run a Catleap 2B on a 980Ti without issues.


----------



## ilgello

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> I run a Catleap 2B on a 980Ti without issues.


Mine is 2C


----------



## KuDoZ83

oh interesting, I run a Crossover 27Q LED on a GTX 970 and the other day after Windows 10 auto updated the Nvidia graphics, I had the same thing happen... screen displays nothing once Windows starts booting. Ended up doing a fresh system install and everything was fine after.


----------



## DiaSin

Does anyone have experience with the Catleap 2703?

I'm looking at finally getting a 1440p monitor out of my income tax return, and these are my two options right now.

$290 - AOC Q2778VQE - 1440p, 27in, 1ms Response Time, very good reviews, but is TFT instead of IPS.

$190 - Yamakasi Catleap 2703 Refurb - 1440p, 27in, 6ms Response Time, I know next to nothing about this particular catleap.

Bear in mind I'm not all that interested in OC, I just want 27" 1440p.


----------



## DiaSin

I got my catleap, and I absolutely love it. I can't enter the club since its a 2703 and not a q270 (no option on the form for this model) but w/e.

I bought it from *THIS* listing, a used refurb. It might as well be brand new for all I can tell. As far as I have been able to tell there is only one dead pixel, about 3 inches in from the middle of the left side. When its not a light colored, static background I can't see it at all. The colors and clarity on this monitor are amazing. Even from a picture you can tell how much better it looks than my old monitors, which are now my secondary displays. I used to think they looked very good too...

I have yet to try overclocking it, but I'm not expecting much, if anything, out of this model.

There were some weird packaging complaints from the one review on it, which was not posted until after I bought mine, but I experienced none of what they listed. Mine was VERY well packaged, with the stand detached, a new power brick still sealed in plastic, though I'm not using the non-grounded plug adapter that came with it. I'm using a regular american 3-pin grounded power cable with the brick. I had to take the plastic off the monitor and the base, though I didn't remember to remove it from the bezels until after I took the pic below. I watched an unboxing on youtube of this model before I bought it, and this refurb, if anything, was packaged a bit better than a brand new one, due to a change in the material used for padding in a couple of key areas.

I'll leave a screencap of the review I left on newegg here, since the review hasn't been cleared yet so I can't link to it. It's a 1440p image, so you may have to do view original to read it.


----------



## MonitorFan

MCM Electronics has a fresh supply of Yamakasi Q270 in stock. these are new direct from the factory. MCM has a great return policy and is a reputable reseller.

Monitor can be found here - http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/58-17775


----------



## dmikester1

How do these compare to the QX2710?


----------



## MonitorFan

Here are the specs as best I can see it , Specifications are about the same depending on which Q2710 you are looking at. There seems to be a 8ms version and a 4ms. The Catleap is 5ms. The Qnix has HDMI and DVI inputs while the Catleap has both of those and add's DisplayPort. The VESA mounting is 100mm on the Qnix and 75mm on the Catleap monitor. Looks like MCM has lowered their price to $286 while the Qnix is $259 depending on where you get it.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=100160979%20600416631&IsNodeId=1&Description=Qnix&name=27%22%20and%20Up&Order=BESTMATCH

I am not familiar with the resellers of this monitor on the Newegg site but I know that MCM is a reputable company with a great return policy.

Thanks,


----------



## Chobbit

Hey, just wanted to say its been probably 4 years now ive had my catleap and not a single problem, great screen but its been so long since ive looked at this thread and theres far too much to catch up on. Well i have 2 980's custom watercooled and highly overclocked so it would be good if i could get this monitor oc up to120hz.

Is it still only certain early versions that can do this or has anymore tricks been found to oc these monitors? Much appreciated.


----------



## MaelstromOC

Honestly, at this point in time with so many new IPS monitors coming out from great companies and at very reasonable prices, the market for these Yamakasi's is about gone.

There are still cheap Korean monitors to be had though, like the new 4k panels and such. But honestly, I'd rather purchase from someone like Acer or Asus now.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaelstromOC*
> 
> Honestly, at this point in time with so many new IPS monitors coming out from great companies and at very reasonable prices, the market for these Yamakasi's is about gone.
> 
> There are still cheap Korean monitors to be had though, like the new 4k panels and such. But honestly, I'd rather purchase from someone like Acer or Asus now.


Acer and Asus can't come close to the $189 I paid for the one I just got. Just saying.


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaelstromOC*
> 
> Honestly, at this point in time with so many new IPS monitors coming out from great companies and at very reasonable prices, the market for these Yamakasi's is about gone.
> 
> There are still cheap Korean monitors to be had though, like the new 4k panels and such. But honestly, I'd rather purchase from someone like Acer or Asus now.


with the insane QC issues they've faced? lol


----------



## MaelstromOC

At least there may be some form of recourse vs. buying a Korean panel and almost always being stuck with what you get.

I believe the QC issue isn't so much with Asus and Acer as it is the AUO panels they've been using. Hoping they get it right sometime


----------



## DirkDaring

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaelstromOC*
> 
> At least there may be some form of recourse vs. buying a Korean panel and almost always being stuck with what you get.
> 
> I believe the QC issue isn't so much with Asus and Acer as it is the AUO panels they've been using. Hoping they get it right sometime


that's blame passing, they should qc their products not just collect panels, do installs, and kick back as the profits roll in from the insane markups.


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirkDaring*
> 
> that's blame passing, they should qc their products not just collect panels, do installs, and kick back as the profits roll in from the insane markups.


I have a Benq IPS/AHVA (depending on who you ask, I guess) monitor, they are the AUO parent company. It has less glow and bleed than my Catleap 2B, and even the 2B isn't that bad.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chobbit*
> 
> Hey, just wanted to say its been probably 4 years now ive had my catleap and not a single problem, great screen but its been so long since ive looked at this thread and theres far too much to catch up on. Well i have 2 980's custom watercooled and highly overclocked so it would be good if i could get this monitor oc up to120hz.
> 
> Is it still only certain early versions that can do this or has anymore tricks been found to oc these monitors? Much appreciated.


It's still only the original "Glossy" Cat2B version for Yamakasi or the Overlord Tempest (USA version)









There is an LG "Matte" version, the Crossover 2795 and it is the only one made now without PWM. It will reliably clock to 96Hz, sometimes 110Hz, but very rarely 120Hz ... see *HERE*









There is still the QNIX 2710 (Samsung PLS) that even comes as a glossy, BUT all the newer ones (L07 panels) all seem to have PWM diming









Do you have original Cat2B's? If not your only option, besides being lucky enough to ever find a used Cat2B for sale, would be to modify your own with the original "Overclock Kits" from the bankruptcy sale from Overlord. They are a steel at appx $107 ... see *HERE* ... For others they could pick up a used Catleap Q270 (not originally overclockable like *HERE*) ... put in the Overclock kit (above) and have essentially an overclockable Cat2B WITH a true "Glossy" screen that picture quality wise blows away all the others, including the utter crap $800 Acer/Asus matte AUOptronic panels ... for a little over $200!









Sure there is no GSync/ULMB but when I put an Asus PG279Q side by side up against both my 1440p/120Hz LG/Samsung Glossy panels, there was no way I'd accept paying a $500-$600 dollar Premium for a panel that looked as bad as the Asus with it's not only BLB/Glow problems but atrocious Uniformity problems as well!!! I doubt I could even accept one that was in the $400-$450 range with that PQ









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaelstromOC*
> 
> Honestly, at this point in time with so many new IPS monitors coming out from great companies and at very reasonable prices, the market for these Yamakasi's is about gone.
> 
> There are still cheap Korean monitors to be had though, like the new 4k panels and such. But honestly, I'd rather purchase from someone like Acer or Asus now.


Perfect example of why Acer/Asus thinks they can get away with their QC BS!!!









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Acer and Asus can't come close to the $189 I paid for the one I just got. Just saying.


+R ...


----------



## Covert_Death

Ah finally an active thread on korean monitor overclocking!!!

guys I have some serious questions I hope you can help with...

Let me explain my situation.

I have found 2 Korean monitors for sale for a great price locally, specs are below

1. a Crossover Q27 LED-P for $150 w/ no dead pixels and seemingly no shadows or any other 'defects" on the screen. The current owner has not tested the ability to overclock and since its a crossover I assume that the best I could do is 70hz but probably not even that.

2. a Yamakasi Catleap for $175 with no dead pixels but I haven't gotten him to send me a video with varying angles to determine if it has any shadows. This user can confirm he reaches 105hz no problem on this panel for gaming.

Ultimately I want a beautiful 1440p screen for gaming with the potential to overclock to atleast 90hz.

I'm tempted to buy the crossover as its quality and stand seem better, and then buy the PCB listed above from the overlord sale. This would get me overclocked AND I would have a spare PCB just in case. However this costs me 250-260 where as the catleap monitor, if I can get proof it has no shadows or any other defects, will get me where I want to be for 175.

The other thing I'm worried about is NOT having a spare PCB if it ever goes bad and then not being able to get one later down the road.

My biggest concern on the crossover is the 2B PCB fitting... I understand there will have to be some modding, but how much? is there a tutorial on replacing a Crossover Q27 PCB with a 2B PCB somewhere so I can evaluate?

Any thoughts and advice are very appreciated, I am very excited to upgrade my monitor life.


----------



## Covert_Death

To add a little more context to option 1 here is the research I have done and I am REALLY hoping someone can validate my thinking.

From what I can tell the 27q LED comes with the 2C parts as described in this link: 2B vs 2C

If I buy the following overclock kit, it comes with both boards the 2B kit needs: 2B overclock kit

So since it has both boards it should have everything I need. The only thing i'm not 100% certain on is how the monitor connects to the control PCB but I assume that that connection is universally the same and there isn't a "2C" or "2B" type of display but PLEASE correct me if i'm wrong.

so I should be able to take the kit, replace BOTH boards (since the 2B has the 2 wire method and the 2C has the 1 wire they are completely incompatible). and just hook the display up to the new 2B board

I'm very confused by the pictures I see because to ME it looks like the display in the crossover monitor is wired into the PCB with the DVI-D port (the main board?) but the catleap, and in particular the 2B overclock kit, the monitor also has 2 wires and connects to the smaller "daughter" board instead?

am I missing something? can someone show me better illustrations on how these various monitors are wired up?


----------



## MenacingTuba

I'm 95% sure the overclock-able parts don't fit inside the Crossover 27Q since it has differently placed connections and mounting brackets. This was covered on the now defunct Overlord site back when they sold the overclocking kits.


----------



## Covert_Death

right, from my understand though its just case modifications to get it to fit though, circuitry wise everything should work right?

I don't mind doing case modifications as I have done them in the past and this feature add would be worth it.


----------



## sprayy

Does anyone still sell the upgraded boards? My Monitor just crapped out and I'm not sure how to fix it








Blinking green and recognized by computer but doesn't turn on.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprayy*
> 
> Does anyone still sell the upgraded boards?


100$+shipping


----------



## eternal7trance

Does anyone know where you can buy the regular boards? Mine finally died and I can see one of the caps on the board burned up.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Does anyone know where you can buy the regular boards? Mine finally died and I can see one of the caps on the board burned up.


They can be ordered from Korea (taobao), but it costs more and makes no sense to do so when tested overclock-able parts can be ordered off of eBay.


----------



## sprayy

Thanks a ton friend! Are they easy to replace? I can't seem to find a guide anywhere. Is there soldering involved?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> 100$+shipping


----------



## DiaSin

This weird smudgy spot appeared on the side of my Catleap 2703 a couple of weeks back. Anyone have any ideas? It doesn't appear to be getting any worse. Or better.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sprayy*
> 
> Is there soldering involved?


No soldering, just screw removal, wires to unclip and a bezel to snap off. This Qnix guide also applies to the Yamakasi:


----------



## sherlock

I am looking to add a 30" catleap , but have read that the latest Nividia drivers (344.75+) don't work with it. Anyone can testify whether this is true or not? I got a GTX 780.


----------



## DiaSin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> I am looking to add a 30" catleap , but have read that the latest Nividia drivers (344.75+) don't work with it. Anyone can testify whether this is true or not? I got a GTX 780.


I dunno about the 30", but I'm using a Catleap 2703 with SLI 4gb GTX 680 Classifieds on driver 364.51 with no real issues.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> This weird smudgy spot appeared on the side of my Catleap 2703 a couple of weeks back. Anyone have any ideas? It doesn't appear to be getting any worse. Or better.


Anyone?


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> I am looking to add a 30" catleap , but have read that the latest Nividia drivers (344.75+) don't work with it. Anyone can testify whether this is true or not? I got a GTX 780.


Do you hate yourself?







The cheap CCFL back-lit 30" IPS suffer from far, far, far more glow than 27," use very grainy matte coatings, have very low contrast, and there are two cheap 30" Korean monitor choices:

1.) with proper colours and no HDCP support
2.) with very over-saturated and inaccurate colours

Many vastly superior 27" 1440p options are available in the same price range.


----------



## sherlock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MenacingTuba*
> 
> Do you hate yourself?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The cheap CCFL back-lit 30" IPS suffer from far, far, far more glow than 27," use very grainy matte coatings, have very low contrast, and there are two cheap 30" Korean monitor choices:
> 
> 1.) with proper colours and no HDCP support
> 2.) with very over-saturated and inaccurate colours
> 
> Many vastly superior 27" 1440p options are available in the same price range.


I have a very good 27" 1440p monitor already, the ASUS PB278Q in my Rig right now which have served me well for 2 years+. There is only one problem with it: It is *TOO SMALL* . I want 30" or larger 16:9/10 over-saturated color/ no HDCP be damned









Just asking to see if the 30" catleap have problem with latest Nvidia drivers, in which case I have to pony up more $$ for a 31.5" 4K(Acer/BenQ/Dell/Asus) and GTX 980 Ti


----------



## eternal7trance

Just throwing this in here. My monitor died after 4 years of owning it. So I bought one of those ebay boards for $100 and now it's perfect again. Not sure about the overclocking part yet.


----------



## MenacingTuba

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> There is only one problem with it: It is *TOO SMALL* .


Sit closer. The minimum glow free distance for 30" IPS is more than 120cm/4ft when used with bright room lighting without the brightness cranked, and much further with typical room lighting and cranked brightness.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sherlock*
> 
> I want 30" or larger 16:9/10 over-saturated color/ no HDCP be damned


No HDCP=no movies, TV and some web based content. The cheap options all use very grain matte coatings, suffer from tons of glow and have low contrast...they're vastly inferior compared to your PB278Q in every way.

left wide gamut monitor versus normal monitor:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!





left wide gamut monitor versus normal monitor




Some of the 32" 4K monitors are actual upgrades, the BenQ BL3201PH included which supports Free-Sync and is actually better than both the AHVA and PLS version of the PB278Q.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eternal7trance*
> 
> Just throwing this in here. My monitor died after 4 years of owning it. So I bought one of those ebay boards for $100 and now it's perfect again. Not sure about the overclocking part yet.


NICE! ... and for those that missed the link go *HERE*









AND you'll really thank me when you overclock (even just 96Hz) as it is a night and day difference/improvement even just working on the desktop! It is quite simple to do especially with an Nvidia GPU ... better (simpler) guide *HERE* and yes it applies to the Cat2B/Overlord also


----------



## sprayy

Ugh,

Just bought the new board/oc kit from ebay to revive my dead monitor.

It turns on but it has 4 squares on the desktop and 4 copies of everything. Like mirrored 3 extra times. Any ideas?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Mine did that once when Windows snuck a driver update in on me and wiped out my overclock profile - best I can recall I got it working by hooking up an different monitor and rebuilding my custom resolution. It'll also do it with the wrong DVI (non dual link) cable, but I doubt you changed it. Can you boot in safe mode with the real low resolution that safe mode uses?


----------



## DiaSin

Again.. anyone have any ideas?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> This weird smudgy spot appeared on the side of my Catleap 2703 a couple of weeks back. Anyone have any ideas? It doesn't appear to be getting any worse. Or better.


----------



## Xaero252

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Again.. anyone have any ideas?


does the spot appear as soon as the image does or does it slowly start to show up as the display warms?
I doubt its the latter, which is a sign of a problem with the board set, but is probably the prior, which just means the LCD panel is bruised. It happens, and the only fix is a new panel.


----------



## AJCxZ0

My Catleap Q270 is still working perfectly since ordered from green-sum in June 2012, wobbling its way through life on its stand through several moves up until last night, when it finally went up on a Rosewill RMS-MA2740 VESA wall mount.



A big thank you to ScribbyDaGreat and everyone else who shared their experience opening up their Catleaps. I had no problem prying off the front bezel, unscrewing the panel and stand from the back and reassembling without having to disconnect or endanger any wires using only a philips and a flat head screwdriver. There was a period during which I though I had killed it as the screen stayed black after I reconnected the power and DVI cable, resulting in finishing reassembly and mounting the monitor while still thinking it dead, only to have it come back to life after resetting the computer.

One detail of note about the RMS-MA2740 mount is that is comes with a packet containing two sets of hex bolts, two hex keys (Allen wrenches) and some rubber washers. I used the shorter bolts and had no trouble with shorting or evidence of displacing the metal strips.

No picture of the mounted monitor, but here's one showing the last days of wobble with the mount lurking behind.


----------



## Tom1121

Not sure if I should make a separate thread for this, but I have one of the Overlord Tempest monitors and recently my power brick died. I bought a power brick off Amazon that had all the same read puts as the one my Overlord came with, but it doesn't work sadly. Anyone know where I can get a power brick that will work?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tom1121*
> 
> Not sure if I should make a separate thread for this, but I have one of the Overlord Tempest monitors and recently my power brick died. I bought a power brick off Amazon that had all the same read puts as the one my Overlord came with, but it doesn't work sadly. Anyone know where I can get a power brick that will work?


I bought this one back in 2012, but a different vendor.


----------



## KuDoZ83

I remember reading somewhere that maybe the tempest OC power bricks had reversed positive and negative pins... might need to check into that?


----------



## Tom1121

Heres a shot
of the Overlord Temptest Power Brick, still good to go with the power brick in the link above?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

It's the same brick FY2405000, but it looks like the plugs are different. I didn't realize the Overlord was different than the Catleap.

Here's a pic from the ad above, compare that to yours. You could swap ends if you have a DMM and a soldering iron, I guess.


----------



## SoReckless

I found someone who is selling a Catleap monitor for €150. I have asked him what exact model it is, and I want to be prepared for the answer.
what are the pros and cons of every kind of 27" QHD Catleap model.
I read that some models don't actually support 120Hz, and some do, adn I just want to be sure of what I am buying.
€150 is a pretty good deal for a QHD panel whatever the refreshrate is, but are there any models with noticably more backlight issues or other problems?


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SoReckless*
> 
> I found someone who is selling a Catleap monitor for €150. I have asked him what exact model it is, and I want to be prepared for the answer.
> what are the pros and cons of every kind of 27" QHD Catleap model.
> I read that some models don't actually support 120Hz, and some do, adn I just want to be sure of what I am buying.
> €150 is a pretty good deal for a QHD panel whatever the refreshrate is, but are there any models with noticably more backlight issues or other problems?


There "WAS" only 1 model sold by "Green-Sum" that would overclock out of the box without dropping frames, the "Cat2B" ... like the one below, they haven't been available "New" for quite some time!









YAMAKASI Catleap Q270 *"2B Extreme OC"* 120Hz IPS 1440p PC Monitor
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perfect-Pixel-YAMAKASI-Catleap-Q270-2B-Extreme-OC-120Hz-IPS-1440p-PC-Monitor-/140922305094

Some people have successfully moded the "STD" Q270 (2C) with this overclocking mod kit from Overlord ...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-IPS-27-Overclock-Monitor-PCB-Set-w-TCON-DVI-Cables-/182052593563?hash=item2a632e1f9b:g:9bQAAOSwiwVWSlc3

Externally the Q270 "2B" and "2C" monitors look identical










I recently informed an Ebay seller that his Catleap Q270 *HERE* was not a 120Hz monitor as advertised and he corrected his listing. So beware of even "un-intentional" deceptive claims. If it is not an original "Cat2B Extreme OC" then your getting the 60Hz model, which is still a very nice 1440p/IPS true "Glossy" but if you've ever experienced 96-120-144Hz you will not be happy, it is a night n day difference for almost all of us even working on the desktop


----------



## SoReckless

Thanks for the detailed information.
I have already asked the seller to give me a link of the place he bought it. And what he achieved on it.
I think I might aswell buy the monitor and see for myself. 60Hz would be fine too.

I actually saw the corrected second hand seller.


----------



## SoReckless

Thanks for the detailed information.
I have already asked the seller to give me a link of the place he bought it. And what he achieved on it.
I think I might aswell buy the monitor and see for myself. 60Hz would be fine too.

I actually saw the corrected second hand seller.


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, not been around for a while since everything has been going smoothly! Until now!
I recently installed Windows 10 Fresh, and now I get green scan lines at 100Hz on my catleap 2B.
This did not happen in Win 7 where 100Hz would run stable without any problems.
I've used the timings in the guide on the front page, but it doesn't help.
II'm on the newest Nvidia drivers and I have installed the catleap driver for the monitor as well.
Not using any patchers or CRU or anything like that.
Does anyone have any clues, or maybe other timings thay play nice with the newest Nvidia drivers/win 10?

Thanks!


----------



## Feyris

Anyone resolve the bubbling? my 2nd one started to week out of box. Its annoying


----------



## TomcatV

Thought this might be of interest to the Cat2B and Overlord guys, heck I guess it will work with any LG LM270WQ1 panel. Has anyone done this mod or seen some others results? Links? Lookin @U Rod you have a PM









This is a full custom GSYNC PCB and OSD board setup for the 27" 2560x1440 LG LM270WQ1 panels. Believe this was the basis for Overlord's Revenant model that was scrapped due to Scribby's illness and subsequent closure of Overlord.

Kit $175 *HERE*


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Umm OMG... I was just talking to someone today on my particular issue with the DVI only setup over at YouTube because of AMD's Master Plan, which is so damn obvious now what is happening. But I will probably be going with AMD in the foreseeable future due to 



. NVIDIA is wanting out of the PC market and AMD obviously has all the game developers on their side now all thanks to DX12 and Vulkan directly targeting AMD hardware. My next card will probably be a Fury2 anyway. This setup from Overlord will give me a native DP port input though, but what version input is it? Will I be able to overclock over 60hz using this DP board? I can get a DP board and convert it myself for under $80 already, but I don't know if that will allow for overclocking, chances are no.

Great find TomcatV









*EDIT:* Oh wow, I just noticed that listing is only showing one unit available. I would have expected several prototypes to exist in case of failure of one or two during testing. I suspect in a few years, maybe 3 or so people will be saying "Gsync what" lol. VR is obviously the way of the gaming future, and those displays will be a minimum of 120-240hz each eye pretty soon. Both NVIDIA and AMD are already working with 240hz VR displays in lab, so I think these monitor syncing technologies are VERY late to the game. We needed that stuff a decade ago. My next display is going to be HTC Vive Gen3, or Oculus RIFT Gen3, or maybe even Hololens, lol. Assuming my custom built display lasts that long.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> Thought this might be of interest to the Cat2B and Overlord guys, heck I guess it will work with any LG LM270WQ1 panel. Has anyone done this mod or seen some others results? Links? Lookin @U Rod you have a PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a full custom GSYNC PCB and OSD board setup for the 27" 2560x1440 LG LM270WQ1 panels. Believe this was the basis for Overlord's Revenant model that was scrapped due to Scribby's illness and subsequent closure of Overlord.
> 
> Kit $175 *HERE*


+REP Great find man. Do you have information on overclockability ? Input lag?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> +REP Great find man. Do you have information on overclockability ? Input lag?


It is going to be a experimental situation as no one but Scribby knows that answer. Chances are good though that it's an amazing kit for a 1440p display. I would suggest someone should get it before it disappears again.


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

You could ask the seller as it is scribby selling it.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bitemarks and bloodstains*
> 
> You could ask the seller as it is scribby selling it.


Could be. Overlord was based in Rancho Cordova California and the item on ebay is from Sacramento. Only a 13 mile distance apart.

Yeah the seller just might have specs on it. Lol


----------



## Bitemarks and bloodstains

Trust me it is.

Scribby used an account here which has the same name as one of the past eBay names

closeout2u2016 Mar-19-16 Present
closeout2u2015 Sep-15-15 Mar-19-16
bondfcstar Dec-19-00 Sep-15-15


----------



## zehoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Chances are good though that it's an amazing kit for a 1440p display.


I guess I'll find out when it gets here, either way I needed to change the board to have a displayport for when I change to a GTX 1080.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zehoo*
> 
> I guess I'll find out when it gets here, either way I needed to change the board to have a displayport for when I change to a GTX 1080.


Yeah good for you and nice choice, but please let us know your results with it. Congrats...









Oh by the way GTX 1080 still has one DVI port.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zehoo*
> 
> I guess I'll find out when it gets here, either way I needed to change the board to have a displayport for when I change to a GTX 1080.


So you're the one who snatched it. You bear the responsibility of giving us a review now







.
What's your plan to make room for the kit as it is bigger than your current one for sure?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zahix*
> 
> So you're the one who snatched it. You bear the responsibility of giving us a review now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> What's your plan to make room for the kit as it is bigger than your current one for sure?


Yeah very good point, it is bigger.


----------



## zehoo

I'll look at how much extra room it needs and I'll work it out then, though I'll more than likely just cut away some plastic. It won't be here for a week or two anyway (assuming I don't get burned).


----------



## Stockings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zehoo*
> 
> I'll look at how much extra room it needs and I'll work it out then, though I'll more than likely just cut away some plastic. It won't be here for a week or two anyway (assuming I don't get burned).


Your also going to need to mcguyver insides for mounting it seems like a ton of boards... Also, it seems feyris has one thats similiar from a post few days ago for appraisals maybe they would know extent of what had to be done to the chassis.

I for one would never cut my catleap, more so because the white variant seems virtually impossible to find now but the fact they are test pcb alone seems scary


----------



## zehoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stockings*
> 
> but the fact they are test pcb alone seems scary


I've done dumber things with my money if it turns out to be a buggy mess, and if it goes well I'm not overly worried about the aesthetics of the back of the monitor.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Oh by the way GTX 1080 still has one DVI port.


My qnix will be taking that up, I usually have 3-4 monitors going depending on what I'm doing. Forcing myself not to buy any more monitors until some 40" 4k monitors with 120hz/HDR and displayport 1.4 are released.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah that is why I needed the 1080 card because of the DVI port. I only have 3 displays but one uses pure HDMI, one uses dp to DVI and then my custom built "SkOrPnLeap" 1440p only has DVI. I still need to test new cards because I suspect that the new dp ports can properly convert using a dp to DVI cable and thus I won't need to convert my display from DVI to dp. I'm just trying to avoid going to native dp because I don't know if I can retain overclocking if I do.


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zehoo*
> 
> I'll look at how much extra room it needs and I'll work it out then, though I'll more than likely just cut away some plastic. It won't be here for a week or two anyway (assuming I don't get burned).


If you don't care about aesthetics and have a VESA stand around, I can give you some tips and measurements on how to build a housing for the panel and the PCB's like I did with my DIY monitor.(same panel as yours) HERE It is pretty easy as long as you have the stand.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Or you could be lazy like I was and just hang it from the ceiling like I did. HAHA, actually I wasn't being lazy because I did build my own PCB tray out of particle wood and mobo standoffs. My plastic cover eventually fell off though, leave it to electrical tape to not last long.


----------



## zehoo

We'll see, will be a few weeks before I need to solve any problems.


----------



## Stockings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Or you could be lazy like I was and just hang it from the ceiling like I did. HAHA, actually I wasn't being lazy because I did build my own PCB tray out of particle wood and mobo standoffs. My plastic cover eventually fell off though, leave it to electrical tape to not last long.


I need to see this so bad.

All hail the death of the wobbly stand


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stockings*
> 
> I need to see this so bad.
> 
> All hail the death of the wobbly stand


Lol, what I did wasnt special really. I did it because 1st, I needed to do it over time, buy a part here and there etc, and 2nd, I needed to know I was getting the absolute best quality panel, one from a Apple display or a HP Z1 display. Then I just built my own CatLeap2B (I call it the SkOrPnLeap) by getting the Overlord kit (not from Overlord) and using some ingenuity. Zahix on the other hand did it right, by actually building his own display stand/case for the panel (which is what I really wanted to do).

Here's my build. I never built a stand but my desk made it possible so that I could easily just hang it in front of me. Now I have no monitor stand in the way of anything on my desk. I still like Zahix's build better though, it just looks more pro to me. I love aluminum...
http://www.overclock.net/t/1521614/build-an-overclockable-monitor-1440p-ips-grade-a-60hz-96hz-for-under-250


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

So I just got my 27 inch Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter(bought it open box off flee bay $200 plus shipping) but when i hook up the DVI cable it blinks. I plan to go back to the start of this thread n re read, I asked for a refund as it does display in 1080P which is worth $100 only, so for now I'm hooked by HDMI. as soon as I enable the DVI, it starts blinking I never got into it just always blinks.

Anyway, I thought might be a quick fix, I can open mine up and post photo's. Any suggestion as I'd like to keep it but want it to work also...........
OH its on a 3770K on a maximus V Formula @4500Mhz, 2 GTX780TI' DCIIOC water cooled and with Skynet bios(from here)pretty sure my cable is good but I'll try another, cable worked with others.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Also try to remember that this is a Catleap thread and most everyone in this thread has the Catleap PCB on their panel, which is completely different from yours. Jupiter series has a multiple input PCB based on a completely different chip. But that don't mean you won't get good advice here.

Yeah definitely try different cables, you just never know until you try. Maybe even enable the video cards built in scaler, reboot and see what happens.


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Also try to remember that this is a Catleap thread and most everyone in this thread has the Catleap PCB on their panel, which is completely different from yours. Jupiter series has a multiple input PCB based on a completely different chip. But that don't mean you won't get good advice here.
> 
> Yeah definitely try different cables, you just never know until you try. Maybe even enable the video cards built in scaler, reboot and see what happens.


Scaler?

Where, do you have a link to the other thread? when I say it blinks i mean steadily blinks like some tried to apply a over clock that didn't work, Now it blinks.........

THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK*
> 
> Scaler?
> 
> Where, do you have a link to the other thread?
> 
> THANKS FOR THE HELP!!!


Yeah I was thinking the video cards built in scaler (accessed in the drivers menu somewhere) could possible solve it, but I don't know if that would do anything useful or not. Just an idea that popped into my head when I was replying to you, lol. But I do hope you figure it out.

EDIT: NVIDIA's scaling options should be under the "Adjust desktop size and position" menu option under the Display tab. Maybe something in their could force 1440p?


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

well with HDMI cable i did custom Rez 256X1440 AT 60Hrz it worked but now everything on desk top is tinny little dots.............


----------



## Stockings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK*
> 
> well with HDMI cable i did custom Rez 256X1440 AT 60Hrz it worked but now everything on disk top is tinny little dots.............


Is the dvi cable you tried dual-link for certain? if it was cable in box forget it they are junk


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

Yes, I used one I had already from another monitor I got another just haven't bothered yet. I'll post back. I just noticed this is a CATLEAP as it says so on the manual, its about the only thing I can read on the manual. The add I bought it from says CATLEAP Q270.


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

I tried 3 different cables, it always blinks when set to DVI out on the monitor, I"m gonna read up on this thread as I see many good ideals. Such as maybe inside the monitor something came lose while shipping, ETC.


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blenny*
> 
> I desperately need some help repairing a catleap with a broken back light. The monitor works fine except no backlight
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Details:
> Panel: LM270WQ1
> Control Board: HY-2560M_DP_M Rev.03
> 
> 
> I've managed to narrow down the issue with the control board by swapping panels with a functioning catleap.
> The broken board appears to supply power to the backlight LEDS just fine (23V) but it appears as though some sort of 'on' signal travels along the LCD Module connector ( FI-X30SSL-HF ) to the LED panel (See specs here http://lcdtech.info/download/specs/LG%20Display/LM270WQ1%20(SD)(A2).pdf).
> 
> I did some basic diagnostics on the FI-X30SSL-HF but couldn't get any readings. I've seen that is common for the panel to require a 3.3V signal before it turns the backlight on (
> 
> 
> 
> ).
> 
> So, I suspect this can be fixed in two ways:
> 1. Buy a new control board (not sure where from)
> 2. Somehow directly connect the the FI-X30SSL-HF (maybe pin 30?) to 3.3V to jump start the back-light.
> 
> Any input would be greatly appreciated.


That board in the picture is an inverter board, so if you HAVE good signal then its the light's and they R NOT easy to fix or work on(unless you have a clean room) it can be done with out it, these CCFL lights can break from movement etc.


----------



## Stockings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK*
> 
> Yes, I used one I had already from another monitor I got another just haven't bothered yet. I'll post back. I just noticed this is a CATLEAP as it says so on the manual, its about the only thing I can read on the manual. The add I bought it from says CATLEAP Q270.


that may be good idea. and yes~ If you have multi it doesnt say catleap on monitor so it can be confusing...

Hopefully its just loose tcon! just double check all screws are outbefore removing panel as the plastic loves to crack super easy


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

Thanked^ Stockings*
OK so I been reading backwards this thread, though my DVI cable only shows blinking upon power my HDMI will display 2560X1440, but in game I can't see a thing(BF4) distance is hard to judge and people pick me off as I just can't see them fast enough. Suggestions? For now I went bk to 1080P, as i seem to do average on it(I still suck). While set at 2560X1440 my frame rates r smooth, I can run around in game fells like I'm flying(die often)apparently others do not feel my super abilities..............
Back to the display, mine has zero dead pixels(my eyes r bad) its not glossy on top but looks very clean, the I/O's r 1 HDMI,1 DVI, 1 Blue plug(old plug)2 speaker/audio inputs.
Again still reading the tread(backwards) lots of great input, I have done a few CCFL repairs in the past. And used to fix the old CRT'S displays(my job), anyway I'll be offering input to try n help as well. I will eventually open it, to re seat all connections, I'll take n post picture's.

THANKS ALL!


----------



## zehoo

Quick update on that gsync prototype board I bought. After plugging it in it turned on instantly and I gave it a quick test with that pendulum demo and gsync appeared to be working. I'm running it at 100hz since 115 had artifacts. Apart from that it's sitting on my desk in pieces. No time really for anything else. I gave AS syndicate a quick run as well and it felt like gsync was running. But until I get it on a stand and have more time with it I won't know how stable it is. But so far, great success, a catleap with gsync.


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zehoo*
> 
> Quick update on that gsync prototype board I bought. After plugging it in it turned on instantly and I gave it a quick test with that pendulum demo and gsync appeared to be working. I'm running it at 100hz since 115 had artifacts. Apart from that it's sitting on my desk in pieces. No time really for anything else. I gave AS syndicate a quick run as well and it felt like gsync was running. But until I get it on a stand and have more time with it I won't know how stable it is. But so far, great success, a catleap with gsync.


*One-of-a-kind!* A true Glossy 1440p/IPS overclocked and GSync ... *****in' ... +R for the report









Maybe you could take detailed pics of the parts and numbers, for others to source, but the "custom" cables and the GSync module (firmware) may be really tough to get


----------



## zehoo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TomcatV*
> 
> *One-of-a-kind!* A true Glossy 1440p/IPS overclocked and GSync ... *****in' ... +R for the report


Yeah busy with work etc atm but once I've finished building a mount for it I'll get some photos etc (otherwise who would believe me







). The boards though I should be able to get some photo's earlier if you want the model numbers. It looks to me like maybe it's a modified gsync DIY kit, though it's possible nvidia modified the firmware for him since I vaguely remember something like that being said on the 120hz forums, but I could be wrong. It also came with it's own T-CON. Did a quick run testufo and isn't frame skipping at 100hz.

All in all looks to be the best gamble I've made on something in a while, tempted to sell my Dell S2716DG since I forgot how good glossy was compared to a harsh antiglare coating. Of course the IPS glow is still there but I never had any bleed on my Catleap, it's only my QNIX I had to tear apart to fix that.

edit* Nah I'll hang onto the Dell and use them both depending on the game, a quick play of something fast paced reminded me why I bought a TN panel gysnc display again.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah best gamble for sure. Congrats man


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

Well I just came back to report my monitor is working with DVI cable, I opened the box to remove any un used cables and for some reason I thought this cable looks heavier then the first one, so I plugged it in and sure enough I get true 2560X1440 display. It senses it and everything now to get used to using it in games(going from a 1080P 39 TV).

I'm still gonna read up on the thread...........


----------



## Stockings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK*
> 
> Well I just came back to report my monitor is working with DVI cable, I opened the box to remove any un used cables and for some reason I thought this cable looks heavier then the first one, so I plugged it in and sure enough I get true 2560X1440 display. It senses it and everything now to get used to using it in games(going from a 1080P 39 TV).
> 
> I'm still gonna read up on the thread...........


either first bad dvi or not true dual link, odd.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK*
> 
> Well I just came back to report my monitor is working with DVI cable, I opened the box to remove any un used cables and for some reason I thought this cable looks heavier then the first one, so I plugged it in and sure enough I get true 2560X1440 display. It senses it and everything now to get used to using it in games(going from a 1080P 39 TV).
> 
> I'm still gonna read up on the thread...........


Sounds like the first cable wasn't a true dual-link DVI, or it has a bad pin/wire or two somewhere.

Its hard going from a large screen to a smaller screen. I used a 55" 1080p TV, but this 1440p looks better so I almost exclusively use it for gaming. Once I get a new video card I am going to try the TV again, but this time with that Super Resolution feature that uses 4K textures and compresses them into the 1080p stream. Should look like bluray gaming, lol.

EDIT: As Stockings mentioned last week, you needed to make sure the cable was a Dual-Link type, because 1080p does not require Dual Link so the 1080p manufacturer would have never given you a Dual Link cable. It would have most certainly been a Single Link, which is only good up to 1200p. On a single link DVI cable, which was what you were probably using on the 1080p the bandwidth isn't enough to carry all the signals for a 1440p screen.


----------



## Killerr

I already posted on 120hz dot net, but that forum is apparently dead. So I figured this is the best place:

"Hey, I have 3 Yamakasi Catleap 2Bs running at 120hz. How do I keep the overclock on the 3 monitors when using Nvidia Surround?

I set all 3 monitors to 120hz, but then as soon as I enable Nvidia Surround they return to 60hz. I tried using CRU, but it doesn't seem to work...

Is there a guide or a thread which already explains this?"


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Killerr*
> 
> I already posted on 120hz dot net, but that forum is apparently dead. So I figured this is the best place:
> 
> "Hey, I have 3 Yamakasi Catleap 2Bs running at 120hz. How do I keep the overclock on the 3 monitors when using Nvidia Surround?
> 
> I set all 3 monitors to 120hz, but then as soon as I enable Nvidia Surround they return to 60hz. I tried using CRU, but it doesn't seem to work...
> 
> Is there a guide or a thread which already explains this?"


Are you sure your video cards are strong enough for that kind of bandwidth? It takes some extra strong cards to pull that off. Not exactly sure what video cards can do that but I assume the last two generations can. You might need to try 96Hz instead, and you probably need to start at 60Hz when attempting to overclock them. Overclocking just one screen is already difficult enough, let alone three.


----------



## MillerLite1314

Seriously considering getting one of these monitors for my Strix GTX 980. Is 95Hz a considerable leap over 60Hz? I'm still running an LG flatron 1080p LED I picked up in 2012 and need a serious upgrade.


----------



## blued

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Seriously considering getting one of these monitors for my Strix GTX 980. Is 95Hz a considerable leap over 60Hz? I'm still running an LG flatron 1080p LED I picked up in 2012 and need a serious upgrade.


I dont think they are available anymore. Unless used.


----------



## Stockings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> Seriously considering getting one of these monitors for my Strix GTX 980. Is 95Hz a considerable leap over 60Hz? I'm still running an LG flatron 1080p LED I picked up in 2012 and need a serious upgrade.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blued*
> 
> I dont think they are available anymore. Unless used.


You can still buy the Multi sub 300... and 2B/OC tcon is still floating around on ebay and such so new is a possibility still

(literally grabbed two more multis for 270 a pop NIB from amazon a month ago)


----------



## MillerLite1314

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stockings*
> 
> You can still buy the Multi sub 300... and 2B/OC tcon is still floating around on ebay and such so new is a possibility still
> 
> (literally grabbed two more multis for 270 a pop NIB from amazon a month ago)


I scanned ebay. I'm going to read the info on the first page before I buy so I know what to look for. Want a cheap 1440p with potential.


----------



## PhIlLy ChEeSe StEaK

I just noticed as my browser keeps crashing I do have lite bleed, not to the extent to bug me but I do notice it when a black screen,


----------



## Nachmanowicz

Hello guys.

I have a Yamakasi Catleap Q270. I've always felt like trying to overclock it but never in fact tried it. So today I tried it in a super simple way: just clicked nVidia control panel and then made a custom one changing the refresh rate. But I got at most a kinda underwhelming 67Hz. I didnt download anything else, no powerstrip, nothing. Just that. I got that powerstrip software and it was super old, not supporting Win10 so I canceled it.

Can I push it harder than 67Hz? What programs should I get? What to do? What to say? oh boy

thanks


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nachmanowicz*
> 
> Hello guys.
> 
> I have a Yamakasi Catleap Q270. I've always felt like trying to overclock it but never in fact tried it. So today I tried it in a super simple way: just clicked nVidia control panel and then made a custom one changing the refresh rate. But I got at most a kinda underwhelming 67Hz. I didnt download anything else, no powerstrip, nothing. Just that. I got that powerstrip software and it was super old, not supporting Win10 so I canceled it.
> 
> Can I push it harder than 67Hz? What programs should I get? What to do? What to say? oh boy
> 
> thanks


Bout all you can do at this point is try to install an original Overclock Kit from Overlord made for Catleap panels ...
And your in luck, they have even come down in price recently! (-$15)









I'm dreading the day my "Glossies" give up the ghost as it seems NO one makes, or plans to make, a high refresh Glossy panel anymore until OLED comes out









http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-IPS-27-Overclock-Monitor-PCB-Set-w-TCON-DVI-Cables-/182127782090?


----------



## fstop

I'm looking to get rid of a Catleap 2b that has a stable OC of 120hz. Can anyone here help with appraisal? It's been in storage for nearly 3 years and I'm looking to get rid of it because it's taking up so much space.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1542288/appraisal-yamasaki-catleap-2b-extreme/0_50


----------



## TomcatV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fstop*
> 
> I'm looking to get rid of a Catleap 2b that has a stable OC of 120hz. Can anyone here help with appraisal? It's been in storage for nearly 3 years and I'm looking to get rid of it because it's taking up so much space.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542288/appraisal-yamasaki-catleap-2b-extreme/0_50


Last September Overlord monitors had a bankruptcy sale of their Tempest OC monitors, a USA equivalent of the Cat2B with some upgrades, better power supply/much better stand etc etc ... They sold pretty quickly on ebay for $280-$300!

It's a fantastic monitor but it's showing it's age with compatability (D-DVI only), the new Pascal (1070/1080) cards are having problems operating above an appx 330 pixel clock (80Hz), maybe Toasty will update the patcher, maybe not? AND the newer AMD Polaris cards look like they won't have any DVI ports at all! You'll need to find someone who can appreciate it like most of all users in this thread. Depending how much you want for it, I don't think you'll have a problem selling it fairly quickly


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

We NEED someone to develop a DP based overclock board for these 1440p displays. Even if it only hits 96 Hz, its better than 60 max. Seems almost criminal to let these displays get tossed out and unused just because they are not making DVI cards any more. OR, we need a really good adapter to be developed that don't cost a ridiculous amount of money.


----------



## Stockings

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fstop*
> 
> I'm looking to get rid of a Catleap 2b that has a stable OC of 120hz. Can anyone here help with appraisal? It's been in storage for nearly 3 years and I'm looking to get rid of it because it's taking up so much space.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1542288/appraisal-yamasaki-catleap-2b-extreme/0_50


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MillerLite1314*
> 
> I scanned ebay. I'm going to read the info on the first page before I buy so I know what to look for. Want a cheap 1440p with potential.


Heck ide probably buy it for the right price after move is done... but what skorn said, Jupiter is an upgraded catleap even and has DP etc which multi does not plus most own dvi only for its benefits (a plus for your sale of the 2b)

Oddly enough...my new catleap multi can OC to 80 without frame skipping (past that it starts skipping) so even multis have hope, just very few.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone seen this new Korean 4K overclockable display yet?






EDIT: Never mind me, looks like Overclock.net members already got their hands on this ages ago. LOL

http://www.overclock.net/t/1554580/got-a-wasabi-mango-4k-42-korean-ips-monitor-what-tests-to-run


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Does anyone know if it's possible to run a Display Port only video card with these DVI only Yamakasi catleaps? Has anyone successfully done it, and if so exactly what cable or adapters did you use?


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Does anyone know if it's possible to run a Display Port only video card with these DVI only Yamakasi catleaps? Has anyone successfully done it, and if so exactly what cable or adapters did you use?


If you find an adapter that works, Please for the love of god PM me.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Lol, I would post the information here in this thread for the benefit of everyone. I was expecting someone already solved this question a long time ago at least. Either HDMI or Display Port I don't really care but it seems like all the video cards are slowly dropping DVI and I know I will be in the market for a new card in January or February.

Edit: If I don't find a really good active adapter by 2017 I will be converting this 1440p to a DisplayPort connection and losing the overclocking ability. 60 HZ will have to be good enough.


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Lol, I would post the information here in this thread for the benefit of everyone. I was expecting someone already solved this question a long time ago at least. Either HDMI or Display Port I don't really care but it seems like all the video cards are slowly dropping DVI and I know I will be in the market for a new card in January or February.
> 
> Edit: If I don't find a really good active adapter by 2017 I will be converting this 1440p to a DisplayPort connection and losing the overclocking ability. 60 HZ will have to be good enough.


mine doesnt overclock what boards do i need for display port instead of dvi?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> mine doesnt overclock what boards do i need for display port instead of dvi?


Just the stock DP boards that LG intended for these to be using. Ill try and find one from ebay real quick. And what I mean by stock, is this panel was intended originally for DP input, which is why they all came with DP TCONs (like the Apples, Dells and HP's). The DVI TCONs were added later by the Koreans simply for overclocking setups or multi inputs boards. But this panel was originally designed with DP in mind.

EDIT: err, I found one listed in a matter of a few seconds. This is a cheaper alternative than going the expensive adapter route. I already have the original LG TCON board (pulled from a HP Z1), so I will try and find the option without TCON, lol for a even lower cost solution. Probably half the cost of an active adapter.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401094773628

P.S. You have to PM the seller and make sure it works for your panel. My panel is a LM270WQ1-SDDB (same as the old Apple displays, or HP Z1's Workstations) and it works perfectly with it. You do need a good video card though because the video card will be doing all the heavy lifting, such as the scaling. These boards only take the signal directly from the video card and transfers it directly to the Panel "untouched" (unlike expensive panels which do all kinds of processing and scaling). So consider these aftermarket DP boards a "passthrough" type of connection, lol.


----------



## Rayleyne

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Just the stock DP boards that LG intended for these to be using. Ill try and find one from ebay real quick. And what I mean by stock, is this panel was intended originally for DP input, which is why they all came with DP TCONs (like the Apples, Dells and HP's). The DVI TCONs were added later by the Koreans simply for overclocking setups or multi inputs boards. But this panel was originally designed with DP in mind.
> 
> EDIT: err, I found one listed in a matter of a few seconds. This is a cheaper alternative than going the expensive adapter route. I already have the original LG TCON board (pulled from a HP Z1), so I will try and find the option without TCON, lol for a even lower cost solution. Probably half the cost of an active adapter.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/401094773628
> 
> P.S. You have to PM the seller and make sure it works for your panel. My panel is a LM270WQ1-SDDB (same as the old Apple displays, or HP Z1's Workstations) and it works perfectly with it. You do need a good video card though because the video card will be doing all the heavy lifting, such as the scaling. These boards only take the signal directly from the video card and transfers it directly to the Panel "untouched" (unlike expensive panels which do all kinds of processing and scaling). So consider these aftermarket DP boards a "passthrough" type of connection, lol.


thats the same as dvi in the current setup but who runs these at an alternative res anyway?

the passthrough no scaling that is


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rayleyne*
> 
> thats the same as dvi in the current setup but who runs these at an alternative res anyway?
> 
> the passthrough no scaling that is


Yeah no one does, which is why these are perfect if Overclocking is not an option or if we lose the DVI on video cards.

Here is the one for my SDDB panel. http://www.ebay.com/itm/401097566292

That will connect to the original DisplayPort LG TCON board that I pulled from the HP Z1 and stored in a static free bag. All I would have to do is pull the Overclocking DVI board and its matching TCON (SLA1 in this case), install the old LG DP TCON (SDC1 in this case), install the new DP input board and get a different PSU. My power supply for the DVI board is a 24 volt model, but these DP boards only use 19 volt. So not sure if our 24v power supplies are too much or not.

At any rate, if DVI is a thing of the past and I do not want to stop using my 1440p monitor, then I see no other option UNLESS one really good Active Adapter gets made. And I mean one that will allow at least 96 Hz or something along those lines. If its below that, I think it would not be worth going the active adapter route. Might as well just convert your display back to pure DisplayPort.

EDIT: Below is what the original LG supplied DisplayPort TCON looks like, model is SDC1. You would need one of these to convert yours.


----------



## BlitzWulf

Hello all! I just scored a used one of these off of Ebay for 100$ it will be here Friday The seller listed it as non working for parts. he doesn't own a desktop and would get no picture and a flashing green light when he plugged it into his laptop.I took the gamble and bought it .
Quick question,can you tell if it's overclockable from the serial number? Seller sent me a pic of the back label its an E model i guess? and the S/N is Q270SE2E4LP1033K.

I'll be sure to post pics and MY OC attempt results when it gets here on Friday.I'm so excited !
I've never gamed on a nice glossy high refresh IPS before


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

It's a Catleap Q270 SE. And if it's multiple inputs, no it probably won't overclock. If it's DVI only with a SLA1 tcon, then yes chances are it will overclock.


----------



## BlitzWulf

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> It's a Catleap Q270 SE. And if it's multiple inputs, no it probably won't overclock. If it's DVI only with a SLA1 tcon, then yes chances are it will overclock.


Hi thanks for the reply,

Seller sent me a pic looks like single DVI and no audio plug so no speakers I guess?



even if it doesnt OC when i get it i can hopefully grab one of those PCB kits and make it so.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Yeah true, assuming you can find a overclocking kit. I'm pretty sure you can source the parts needed if not.


----------



## ThaSpacePope

My catleap SE is now 4.5 years old guys, still runs at 66hz. Not a major overclock but it still runs great







I wish I had gotten one of the gen 1s and it hit 120+hz. Oh well!


----------



## eternal7trance

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ThaSpacePope*
> 
> My catleap SE is now 4.5 years old guys, still runs at 66hz. Not a major overclock but it still runs great
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wish I had gotten one of the gen 1s and it hit 120+hz. Oh well!


Nice mine just passed the 4 year mark as well.


----------



## munchj

Hello guys,

my catleap also just passed the 4 years mark !
I recently downgraded it as my secondary monitor though. Unfortunately, last week it started to stay asleep when the other monitors were going out of sleep. Shutting it down then up again would fix the issue. But for a couple days now, it's not working anymore. I just get the green blinking led







I bought a new DVI cable to give it a shot : nothing. I opened it and unplugged/replugged everything : still green blinking led. I tried the different DVI outputs of my graphic card (GTX970) but it didnt help either.
I checked the power supply, it gives a steady 23.7V so this should not be an issue (well without any charge on it)

I would have loved to keep it as my secondary screen, so any advice is appreciated.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anyone know what little red dots or lines within black scenes in video might mean on these displays? If I take a 2d black image I have no problem, but if its moving black scenes, such as a product review of something that is black I see tiny red lined dots ONLY within the black parts. I tried multiple browsers with the same effect. If I slide the video over to the Dell (2nd display) it is not there.

Any ideas?


----------



## motanufelix

Hi anyone knows how can I connect my Catleap Q270 which has only one input DVI and nothing else, to a dell 7040M microfactor which has only vga, displayport and hdmi? I tried several adapters including the one from dell (part number 023NVR) but none seems to be working. Please help, thanks.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motanufelix*
> 
> Hi anyone knows how can I connect my Catleap Q270 which has only one input DVI and nothing else, to a dell 7040M microfactor which has only vga, displayport and hdmi? I tried several adapters including the one from dell (part number 023NVR) but none seems to be working. Please help, thanks.


Catleap Q270 only works with Dual DVI. Not even sure an active adapter would work, but that is the only thing that comes to my mind. Maybe a Active DisplayPort to DVI-D or DVI-I.

Maybe this? http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=104&cp_id=10428&cs_id=1042806&p_id=12784&seq=1&format=2

EDIT: That adapter has terrible reviews though.

Here is another option, and probably the only one that "MIGHT" work, lol... But read the reviews first.
https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U


----------



## motanufelix

Thanks for your reply I was afraid that might be the case lol. But what is it about this monitor that makes it work only with active adapters?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motanufelix*
> 
> Thanks for your reply I was afraid that might be the case lol. But what is it about this monitor that makes it work only with active adapters?


I don't know if it will work with an active adapter or not. I just think that is the only chance you have because all non active adapters are a given not to work per the manufacturer. If I had to guess, I'd guess it won't work even with a active adapter.

I still haven't seen these work with anything but dual DVI. Not yamakasi anyway. The Qnix 1440p display did work with adapters though. Why is anyone's guess.


----------



## KuDoZ83

As far as I'm aware, passive adapters don't have the throughput to do the full 2560x1440 @ 60hz required to run the monitor. I use that active adapter that @}SkOrPn-- linked to and things work fine (the passive ones didn't work for me or anyone else I've spoken to). The https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U is good, but a bit pricey (Black Friday sales are coming up though so maybe you'll get lucky).


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KuDoZ83*
> 
> As far as I'm aware, passive adapters don't have the throughput to do the full 2560x1440 @ 60hz required to run the monitor. I use that active adapter that @}SkOrPn-- linked to and things work fine (the passive ones didn't work for me or anyone else I've spoken to). The https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U is good, but a bit pricey (Black Friday sales are coming up though so maybe you'll get lucky).


Very good to know.









I linked to two different ones, a cheap one from Monoprice and one from Amazon. Which one worked for you exactly?


----------



## doco

i use the monoprice that was linked above. it doesn't work with my former achieva shimian monitor but works with the qnix 2710 1440p @ 60hz. huge YMMV for using the monoprice adapter with korean monitors.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *doco*
> 
> i use the monoprice that was linked above. it doesn't work with my former achieva shimian monitor but works with the qnix 2710 1440p @ 60hz. huge YMMV for using the monoprice adapter with korean monitors.


Yeah I finally figured it out. Some 1440p displays use a 165 Mhz connection, and some allow for a 340 Mhx connection, which is what that Monoprice adapter uses. Our Yamakasi can't support the 340 Mhx connection thus you get a blank screen or it only works up to 1080p. The Qnix stuff works fine with the 340 Mhz adapters apparently.

Bottom line is you might as well get the more expensive adapter at Amazon since it supports both dua-link connection types.


----------



## kingofsorrow

Hey guys, is there any way to make it non-PWM regulated?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kingofsorrow*
> 
> Hey guys, is there any way to make it non-PWM regulated?


I haven't heard of a way. And there is no telling if it is non-pwm after converting it to display port, not without actually trying it.


----------



## Sunreeper

Anybody have any colour profiles that they can link?


----------



## kingofsorrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sunreeper*
> 
> Anybody have any colour profiles that they can link?


There you go mate: http://s000.tinyupload.com/index.php?file_id=00017311935025474503

120cdm2, 6500k, 2.4 gamma, 60hz, brightness ~17 clicks from max (maybe not - choose the level you like).


----------



## Sunreeper

Thank you


----------



## futr_vision

Looking for a new power adapter for my Q270. Actually looking for 2 both ended up cracking the connection on the board and shorting out. I know I've seen some suggestions here for replacements but for some reason I can't find them. Search yields few relevant results. Can anyone recommend a replacement power adapter that won't break the bank? In the $20-$25 range. This one seems like it might work but the specs are not the same as my Loadus supply that came with the monitor.

https://www.amazon.com/Bestcompu-Replacement-Adapter-EFL-2202W-FY2405000/dp/B00MGDWLUQ/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=7KA6Z2XV8PCTGME74S77&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop


----------



## kingofsorrow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> Looking for a new power supply for my Q270. Actually looking for 2 both ended up cracking the connection on the board and shorting out. I know I've seen some suggestions here for replacements but for some reason I can't find them. Search yields few relevant results. Can anyone recommend a replacement power supply that won't break the bank? In the $20-$25 range. This one seems like it might work but the specs are not the same as my Loadus supply that came with the monitor.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Bestcompu-Replacement-Adapter-EFL-2202W-FY2405000/dp/B00MGDWLUQ/ref=s9_simh_gw_g147_i1_r?_encoding=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=7KA6Z2XV8PCTGME74S77&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=a6aaf593-1ba4-4f4e-bdcc-0febe090b8ed&pf_rd_i=desktop


I'm using this one with the Yamakasi 2b:
https://www.amazon.com/MW-Mean-Well-DR-120-24-Supply/dp/B00RKZJJ0U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1484860674&sr=1-1&keywords=dr-120-24
Been using it since day 1, for probably 5 or 6 years already? I don't remember for sure. The cleanest and steadiest energy supply, but you will have to mod it as to attach cables from the original psu and secure them yourself or pay to someone else to do it for you, like I did.


----------



## futr_vision

In all honesty I'm not sure what that is. Pictures show a pretty beat up piece of equipment. Maybe I worded my post wrong. I guess I am looking for a power adapter and not a power supply. I'll update my original post


----------



## kingofsorrow

Yeah, that it is power supply. I thought you needed a power supply. My bad.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> In all honesty I'm not sure what that is. Pictures show a pretty beat up piece of equipment. Maybe I worded my post wrong. I guess I am looking for a power adapter and not a power supply. I'll update my original post


When I contacted the original manufacturer of the power supply for the Yamakasi's adapter, they told me they don't sell to the public but to instead buy one from the name brand equivalent, which is T-power (one of the worlds largest power supply manufacturers for such companies as Dell etc). Below is the model for this Yamakasi.

https://www.amazon.com/T-Power-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-Replacement-Switching/dp/B00N3FQ9R2

Its also available at eBay I think... its possibly cheaper with free shipping at ebay.

BY THE WAY, look at the *first post of my thread* below on building this display, I have a very important Pin-Out chart you need to make sure is correct on the power supply you get.

EDIT: Just going to post the pin outs here for clarification.



http://www.overclock.net/t/1521614/build-an-overclockable-monitor-1440p-ips-grade-a-60hz-96hz-for-under-250


----------



## kontroll

I have a bit of a weird problem. Recently my monitor has started taking *forever* to start. We're talking minutes here...! It'll sit there with a green indicator LED (no flashing or anything) and the backlight on, but only black pixels. After a bunch of minutes it'll start glitching out a ton; basically showing a single frame of the actual video output, and fading to black from there. This will then increase in frequency, until the monitor finally settles at a steady, uninterrupted and glitch free video feed, at which point I can start using the computer as I normally would.

At this point I have no idea what might be up. Is this something any of you guys have experienced? Can it be fixed?


----------



## Mendax

Help!!!

My catleap just lost power and won't turn on again after 4 years of smooth operation. When I plug the power cable in the monitor LED flashes orange. I have two of these monitors and have used the other monitors known good DVI cable + power brick and have the same result - flashing orange LED.

When I plug the DVI cable in the flashing orange LED goes away and is just black.


----------



## Kronin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kontroll*
> 
> I have a bit of a weird problem. Recently my monitor has started taking *forever* to start. We're talking minutes here...! It'll sit there with a green indicator LED (no flashing or anything) and the backlight on, but only black pixels. After a bunch of minutes it'll start glitching out a ton; basically showing a single frame of the actual video output, and fading to black from there. This will then increase in frequency, until the monitor finally settles at a steady, uninterrupted and glitch free video feed, at which point I can start using the computer as I normally would.
> 
> At this point I have no idea what might be up. Is this something any of you guys have experienced? Can it be fixed?


Thats not uncommon in the winter, it takes time for PCbs to heat up and display appropriate refresh rate


----------



## dalirax

Just got mine recently, used. (have still been sitting on an old 1080p 120 hz for a while)

Aside from really great colours and barely any difference in feeling of pixel response vs my old TN, I'm still dissatisfied with IPS glow. I can't see anything in dark videos/games in the bottom corners of the screen. Going below 10 clicks helps a bit.

Is there any method to fix it, or at least make the issue less visible?

I thought about taking the panel apart, but aside from the tape method for lightbleed I couldn't find anything which might apply


----------



## Tallyho

Not really that is just the nature of the IPS beast. The only way to maybe help with this is to move the monitor back a bit. and try to keep the center of the screen centered with your eyes. If the screen sits to high up from your eye point you may want to consider buying a desk mount for it then which well, let's be honest isint exactly a bad idea in the first place.


----------



## kingofsorrow

Just a different, monitor, mate. No other method exists.


----------



## blued

I dont have that issue with mine. No IPS glow or light bleed when sitting straight on. Only at angles and on dark backgrounds I can detect it, so does not bother me at all. Not all IPS panels produce the same degree of glow with any consistency.


----------



## Vagrant Storm

Any one know of a place to get some parts for these Yamakasi monitors? Looks like I need new main board for one. I am not really expecting to find any, but figured I'd look around before tossing this one. A shame too...it was, and still is, a good panel without much of the back light bleed that seems to curse these monitors, but the inverter cable sparks and smokes if I try to power on which is...problematic.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrant Storm*
> 
> Any one know of a place to get some parts for these Yamakasi monitors? Looks like I need new main board for one. I am not really expecting to find any, but figured I'd look around before tossing this one. A shame too...it was, and still is, a good panel without much of the back light bleed that seems to curse these monitors, but the inverter cable sparks and smokes if I try to power on which is...problematic.


Not sure where you can get a DVI board from, but I know there are a lot of Display Port boards for them on ebay. They will be only 60hz boards though if that's OK, and they need a different power supply. It will also need a new tcon board as well, if its not already the correct one. Contact the below seller for more info.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/401097566292


----------



## Zahix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vagrant Storm*
> 
> Any one know of a place to get some parts for these Yamakasi monitors? Looks like I need new main board for one. I am not really expecting to find any, but figured I'd look around before tossing this one. A shame too...it was, and still is, a good panel without much of the back light bleed that seems to curse these monitors, but the inverter cable sparks and smokes if I try to power on which is...problematic.


FULL KIT>> http://www.ebay.com/itm/LG-IPS-27-Overclockable-LM270WQ1-PCBs-w-Cables-Main-Board-DVI-Monitor-Input-/162422270582?hash=item25d11f2a76:g:svUAAOSwRJ9XhTAb

59$.

Cheers


----------



## Ferling

Awe man, I fried the PCB board today, any way to get a replacement? My PCB is D-900 REV_1.0

It would be interesting to know of other display controller board that would work with this panel and with display port.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ferling*
> 
> Awe man, I fried the PCB board today, any way to get a replacement? My PCB is D-900 REV_1.0
> 
> It would be interesting to know of other display controller board that would work with this panel and with display port.


For the DVI version, and I do not know if they are still available.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/162461858494

For the DisplayPort version, and I dont know if they are available. These require you to contact the seller.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272218036587

Also this guy might have ran out but he had the DP versions for many years and knew everything that you would want to know on getting the correct one. I would contact him with your exact panel model number from the sticker on the panels back side.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DisplayPort-Board-for-27inch-2560x1440-LM270WQ1-SDB1-LM270WQ1-SDDB-LM270WQ1-SDC1-/401097566292

Good luck


----------



## Arkaz3

Been more than two weeks, no sweets. I am currently looking for a third yamakasi q270 for a triple monitor setup but unfortunately it's already been more than two weeks since amazon and ebay sales @ $260-270ish got sold out. Specifically I am looking for the Jupiter version with a displayport since my GPU only supports one DVI port. So my question to anybody is, when will there be another large sale of Yamakasi Q270 Jupiter's? I already have a stand and am sorta antsy that there's a gap on my left side


----------



## bpjobin

Hey guys,

I just purchased a Yamakasi Catleap LM270WQ1 SA A2. I would need your help to determine what is causing this behaviour (seen in the following video). As you can see, the monitor's backlight lights up as soon as I press the power button. But then, the image starts to appear after a long 20 minutes.

Fault : Image takes a long time (20 min or so) to appear. Also has vertical lines on grey background.
Intermittent: No
Worked for: I don't know, just bought it this week.
Action: Plug in dual link DVI, power cord, press power and wait...
*Examination:*
I opened the monitor to check every connection and components. Everything seems fine from a naked eye view.

*Potential Solutions:*

Replace cable (that would be too good to be true)
LCD screen is faulty. Need to get a new one.
PCB replacement
I hope someone is going to be able to give me a clue onto what the next step is.

Thanks in advance!


----------



## nikvoid

Issue: Green blinking light.

Hi all, I've been lurking for a while. I've had this before, and last few times, I unseated the cables and the monitor worked again. This time, the green blinking light has been showing up for months. I unplug and replug the DVI cable, power cable a few times till it works again. No,w it won't work.

When I unplug all my other monitors (3 others), the bios and Windows loading screen show up on this monitor, but it goes back to green blinking as soon as the loading screen ends. I've also seen diagonal waves across the screen and blocks of red dots across the entire screen. If I go into the bios, the monitor works (with the red wavy lines or normal). Is it the power brick that's at fault? I replaced the DVI cable, and the blinking issue has been on both my GTX 680 a few months ago and now on the GTX 1070. I just clean installed "stable" drivers because nVidia's also apparently been having issue with displays going to sleep.

I hope someone replies.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bpjobin*
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
> I just purchased a Yamakasi Catleap LM270WQ1 SA A2. I would need your help to determine what is causing this behaviour (seen in the following video). As you can see, the monitor's backlight lights up as soon as I press the power button. But then, the image starts to appear after a long 20 minutes.
> I hope someone is going to be able to give me a clue as to what the next step is.
> 
> Thanks in advance!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikvoid*
> 
> Issue: Green blinking light.
> 
> Hi all, I've been lurking for a while. I've had this before, and last few times, I unseated the cables and the monitor worked again. This time, the green blinking light has been showing up for months. I unplug and replug the DVI cable, power cable a few times till it works again. Now it won't work. I hope someone replies.


These issues are almost always the electronics and or power supply, but usually points to the electronics 9 out of 10 times. The only way to know for sure is to replace both the TCON and PCB with newer parts, which should all be found on ebay. Or get a new display, and fix the broken one at your convenience.


----------



## nikvoid

Thanks for replying. So, I disconnected all the other displays and rebooted into safe mode. It works flawlessly. I tried clean installing the oldest drivers for the 1070
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> These issues are almost always the electronics and or power supply, but usually points to the electronics 9 out of 10 times. The only way to know for sure is to replace both the TCON and PCB with newer parts, which should all be found on ebay. Or get a new display, and fix the broken one at your convenience.


Thanks for replying. I got the monitor to work in safe mode, no issues at all. I think the red flickering/waves was just the DVI cable being loose?

I tried installing the oldest compatible nvidia drivers I could find, while in safe mode, but as soon as the circle stops spinning the the Windows loading screen, it goes to black. I'm trying to refresh Windows and then install nvidia drivers. Does this sound like a driver issue? In safe mode, the monitor shows up as "generic monitor," but doesn't show up in regular mode.

Does this sound like a hardware issue (monitor, monitor's power supply, gfx card, or motherboard) or windows/drivers issue?


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

My power brick went out about a thousand pages ago, blinking green light. Seems like there were some lines that showed up for a bit right before it went out. Bought a new brick off eBay, been going ever since - bought it second hand in 2012 and been using it every day since, OG Catleap 2B


----------



## nikvoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> My power brick went out about a thousand pages ago, blinking green light. Seems like there were some lines that showed up for a bit right before it went out. Bought a new brick off eBay, been going ever since - bought it second hand in 2012 and been using it every day since, OG Catleap 2B


That is good to hear. I'm thinking of buying another from craiglist. Do you remember if the monitor worked during bootup or safe mode, or if it was green blinking all throughout?


----------



## shadoom

im using switchresx on macOS 10.12 but I cant seem to activate a custom resolution.
it always says in switchresX "not activated - invalid?"

does anyone know why?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GnarlyCharlie*
> 
> My power brick went out about a thousand pages ago, blinking green light. Seems like there were some lines that showed up for a bit right before it went out. Bought a new brick off eBay, been going ever since - bought it second hand in 2012 and been using it every day since, OG Catleap 2B


Very good information. Thanks for sharing it.


----------



## nikvoid

Update: I got a replacement power supply from a guy on craigslist, but same green blinking lights.

It works fine in safe mode, which is why I'm not junking it. In safe mode, it shows up in the Device Manager as "Non-PnP Monitor" and has a conflict sign next to it, but it doesn't turn up in normal mode at all. Any ideas? I've already clean installed the oldest drivers I could find multiple times, even using Guru3D's cleaner.

Should I look for blown capacitors or something, even if it works fine in safe mode? I can't change the resolution from 800 x 600 and it's stuck at 64Hz, but it is a non-OC monitor.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikvoid*
> 
> Update: I got a replacement power supply from a guy on craigslist, but same green blinking lights.
> 
> It works fine in safe mode, which is why I'm not junking it. In safe mode, it shows up in the Device Manager as "Non-PnP Monitor" and has a conflict sign next to it, but it doesn't turn up in normal mode at all. Any ideas? I've already clean installed the oldest drivers I could find multiple times, even using Guru3D's cleaner.
> 
> Should I look for blown capacitors or something, even if it works fine in safe mode? I can't change the resolution from 800 x 600 and it's stuck at 64Hz, but it is a non-OC monitor.


Find the exact panel model number on the back of the actual display panel. It will look something like "LM270WQ1-SDDA or LM270WQ1-SDDB" etc. Post it here please.

I will look to see if there are replacement PCB's for you. Below is what my sticker looks like on my panel. Yours should have something similar on it too.


----------



## nikvoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Find the exact panel model number on the back of the actual display panel. It will look something like "LM270WQ1-SDDA or LM270WQ1-SDDB" etc. Post it here please.
> 
> I will look to see if there are replacement PCB's for you. Below is what my sticker looks like on my panel. Yours should have something similar on it too.


Hey, I don't see that number. I've attached the sticker on the back.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikvoid*
> 
> Hey, I don't see that number. I've attached the sticker on the back.


Lol, not the monitors sticker, the panels sticker... haha, you can't buy parts for it unless you know exactly what panel is "inside" the monitor housing, and there are dozens of panel model numbers to these monitors. All we really need to know is the 4 letters behind LM270WQ1, it will be SDDB, SDDA, SDDC, SCCD etc etc. Some have different electronics than others (namely the tcon board). For Example, if it ends in SDDB, like mine, then THIS along with the appropriate power supply will fix your problem immediately. If it doesn't have those last four letters (SDDA or B) then it is possibly a different kit that will fix it.

If you can't open the case and look, then just ignore me. But the sellers who sell replacement parts is going to ask the same exact question from you. Below is what my panel looks like out of its monitor case. Yours will look kinda similar because I modded mine.



By the way, I am automatically assuming your PCB inside is going bad, so that is why I am trying to find a kit that will solve your problem. I should have asked if you are capable of self repairing yours if you need to, sorry about that. Can you repair yours yourself if you have to?


----------



## nikvoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Lol, not the monitors sticker, the panels sticker... haha, you can't buy parts for it unless you know exactly what panel is "inside" the monitor housing, and there are dozens of panel model numbers to these monitors. All we really need to know is the 4 letters behind LM270WQ1, it will be SDDB, SDDA, SDDC, SCCD etc etc. Some have different electronics than others (namely the tcon board). For Example, if it ends in SDDB, like mine, then THIS along with the appropriate power supply will fix your problem immediately. If it doesn't have those last four letters (SDDA or B) then it is possibly a different kit that will fix it.
> 
> If you can't open the case and look, then just ignore me. But the sellers who sell replacement parts is going to ask the same exact question from you. Below is what my panel looks like out of its monitor case. Yours will look kinda similar because I modded mine.
> 
> 
> 
> By the way, I am automatically assuming your PCB inside is going bad, so that is why I am trying to find a kit that will solve your problem. I should have asked if you are capable of self repairing yours if you need to, sorry about that. Can you repair yours yourself if you have to?


Oh, haha, egg on my face. It's LM270WQ1 SDB3. I attached a Shimian to my GPU and it works fine, so it's definitely the monitor (and not the gpu or the power supply or the drivers). Do you see any blown capacitors? I didn't. Thanks in advance.


----------



## jaaa1976

Anybody know of a place to get dvi board for Yamakasi Leonidas monitors? YAMAKASI 300 LEONIDAS 30" LCD S-IPS PANEL 2560x1600
Looks like I need new main dvi board





lcd panel is LM300WQ5 SD A1


----------



## cutty1998

Is it too late in the game to still be using a Catleap 2B ? My Son is still using the one I got him a few years ago. I feel like I never should have sold our BenQ 2420TX ,as that was the most well built monitor I had ever seen. I was just exited to move him up to 1440P ,with the possibility of hitting 120hz. (even though our unit only hit about 100hz tops) . Man is that thing wobbly too !


----------



## jaaa1976

.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cutty1998*
> 
> Is it too late in the game to still be using a Catleap 2B ? My Son is still using the one I got him a few years ago. I feel like I never should have sold our BenQ 2420TX ,as that was the most well built monitor I had ever seen. I was just exited to move him up to 1440P ,with the possibility of hitting 120hz. (even though our unit only hit about 100hz tops) . Man is that thing wobbly too !


If you're not already on 1440p, then I see no reason for it to be too late, it's the perfect time and resolution for gaming. However, much of that idea changes depending on certain things. If he is already on 1440p, I wouldn't get another one, I would get UltraWide and go larger to at least 34". Also, if the 1440p has a DVI only port, I also would steer clear. In 2013 I didn't realize that DVI was going out as fast as it seems to be going. Good chance next generations won't even have it. If not, there is still the 1080 and 1080 Ti that will push graphics to their limits for probably the next few years on 1440p. I however, today would be looking at DisplayPort models and probably UltraWide 1440p or 1600p. I think 4K is really dumb because you are going past the PPI numbers and putting undue stress onto your GPU and for nothing. 4K gaming is IMO strictly for 50+ TV's for the foreseeable future. It has been said many times, the sweet spot for gaming PPI and sitting within 2 feet or so from a gaming monitor has been around 108-110 PPI, this is exactly what you find with 27"-34" displays. So my guess is for regular 16:9 1440p a 27" is the best gaming monitor, and for ultra wide it should probably be 34", or the lower 30's. Any higher in size and you need to move further away from the screen I think. Case in point, a good friend of mine recently purchased a 40" 4K TV for gaming, replacing his 1600p Dell, and now he is forced to lay on his bed for anything to do with gaming or movie watching. Thankfully his PC desk is in his bedroom or he would have needed to do something about it, like go smaller.

I know I am keeping my eye out for 34" UltraWide 1440p (or 38" UltraWide 1600p) at a minimum of 100Hz using DisplayPort and Freesync 2.0. Using these specs you would never feel the need to upgrade to anything shy of perfect VR for gaming, lol.

All this of course goes out the window for competitive gaming which you strictly need the fast possible response and lowest possible latency (probably 1080p), other wise your friend on google fiber is going to kill you most of the time, lol.

If your Sons Catleap is still working fine and you have no problems with the DVI port, by all means stick to it. Unless he is asking for something more, and he deserves it.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikvoid*
> 
> Oh, haha, egg on my face. It's LM270WQ1 SDB3. I attached a Shimian to my GPU and it works fine, so it's definitely the monitor (and not the gpu or the power supply or the drivers). Do you see any blown capacitors? I didn't. Thanks in advance.


Yeah wow, your panel is the Apple iMAC Thunderbolt panel, or was originally meant for the Apple Thunderbolt displays. However, the TCON looks like a standard type. I sent a message to a ebay seller asking him if his PCB will work with your panel.

There are two parts to a display, actually three, but the two parts are the TCON and the Input PCB. The TCON is the board that is directly connected to the Panel itself. The top of every TCON is the same and has two small ribbon cables that connect directly to the Panel. However the bottom of the TCON can differe greatly, having multiple LVDS cables, or just one digital cable of some kind. These are the parts that connect to the Input Boards that take signal from a GPU.

If you intend on keeping your display then the steps follow as below.

Step 1: If all troubleshooting fails, first try replacing the power supply. If power supply is already considered to be good, then go to step two.
Step 2: Replace the Input PCB, it usually goes first as it is the most complicated piece of the entire setup, which is about a $60 part on ebay. If this doesn't fix, go to step three.
Step 3: Replace the TCON board (there is one for every scenario, DVI, DP, HDMI, and one for all of them combined), which is about an $80-90 or more part on ebay. If this doesn't fix, go to step four.
Step 4: It's probably the actual Panel itself which is $200 to $250 for the exact same one you have now. There are even cheaper ones if you look for just the LM270QW1 and omit the last 4 numbers. The panel will still fit inside your monitor's case.

If you made it to Step 4, then congratulations you could have probably just purchased a new Monitor anyway, right?.... lol I did all steps above and added a few of my own and built my own Yamakasi display for fun.

EDIT: I failed to mention Step 0 below. You could try and replace both TCON and PCB all in one fell swoop by purchasing the DVI kit, but that will forever make it a DVI only monitor. However, this will give you up to 100Hz without fail.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/162506125160 (I would send this seller a message and see if he knows anything about your display. You need to make sure the power supply is the proper one too, some are 24 volt while others are 12 volt or even 48 volt supplies.


----------



## nikvoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Yeah wow, your panel is the Apple iMAC Thunderbolt panel, or was originally meant for the Apple Thunderbolt displays. However, the TCON looks like a standard type. I sent a message to a ebay seller asking him if his PCB will work with your panel.
> 
> There are two parts to a display, actually three, but the two parts are the TCON and the Input PCB. The TCON is the board that is directly connected to the Panel itself. The top of every TCON is the same and has two small ribbon cables that connect directly to the Panel. However the bottom of the TCON can differe greatly, having multiple LVDS cables, or just one digital cable of some kind. These are the parts that connect to the Input Boards that take signal from a GPU.
> 
> If you intend on keeping your display then the steps follow as below.
> 
> Step 1: If all troubleshooting fails, first try replacing the power supply. If power supply is already considered to be good, then go to step two.
> Step 2: Replace the Input PCB, it usually goes first as it is the most complicated piece of the entire setup, which is about a $60 part on ebay. If this doesn't fix, go to step three.
> Step 3: Replace the TCON board (there is one for every scenario, DVI, DP, HDMI, and one for all of them combined), which is about an $80-90 or more part on ebay. If this doesn't fix, go to step four.
> Step 4: It's probably the actual Panel itself which is $200 to $250 for the exact same one you have now. There are even cheaper ones if you look for just the LM270QW1 and omit the last 4 numbers. The panel will still fit inside your monitor's case.
> 
> If you made it to Step 4, then congratulations you could have probably just purchased a new Monitor anyway, right?.... lol I did all steps above and added a few of my own and built my own Yamakasi display for fun.
> 
> EDIT: I failed to mention Step 0 below. You could try and replace both TCON and PCB all in one fell swoop by purchasing the DVI kit, but that will forever make it a DVI only monitor. However, this will give you up to 100Hz without fail.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/162506125160 (I would send this seller a message and see if he knows anything about your display. You need to make sure the power supply is the proper one too, some are 24 volt while others are 12 volt or even 48 volt supplies.


Hey, thanks for the detailed reply. I searched this thread, and a few more people had this happen where they could boot into safe mode only. No one seems to have solved it. One guy's monitor was stuck at 80Hz, and mine was showing up as 64Hz. Could that be the case? I couldn't switch back to 59/60 in safe mode, but if I deleted the Windows driver or replaced it? I can't find a non-OC driver. Is there one?

Is there some way I can check voltage levels across my current pcb, to check if there's something I can fix? I'm in Vancouver, so the shipping and the panel on ebay add up to $140 CAD, which is what I paid for a used Shimian yesterday, and there's more at similar prices. I guess these have poor resale values.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikvoid*
> 
> Hey, thanks for the detailed reply. I searched this thread, and a few more people had this happen where they could boot into safe mode only. No one seems to have solved it. One guy's monitor was stuck at 80Hz, and mine was showing up as 64Hz. Could that be the case? I couldn't switch back to 59/60 in safe mode, but if I deleted the Windows driver or replaced it? I can't find a non-OC driver. Is there one?
> 
> Is there some way I can check voltage levels across my current pcb, to check if there's something I can fix? I'm in Vancouver, so the shipping and the panel on ebay add up to $140 CAD, which is what I paid for a used Shimian yesterday, and there's more at similar prices. I guess these have poor resale values.


I never looked for used monitors on ebay before. People actually sell theirs on ebay? Weird that never occurred to me. Yeah, about the drivers, if you replaced your panels drivers with patched OC drivers I am not sure how to get back to square one, as I simply never tried it before. I am lazy when it comes to my OS, when something goes wrong my instinct is to just wipe and install the OS clean again, which always fixes things for me. HEY, but that would be a really good way to make sure its not software related though, lol. Right? Clean OS and clean drivers and if you have the same problem, then it's definitely the display.

What is your monitor doing again? It only works "correctly" in Safe Mode?


----------



## nikvoid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I never looked for used monitors on ebay before. People actually sell theirs on ebay? Weird that never occurred to me. Yeah, about the drivers, if you replaced your panels drivers with patched OC drivers I am not sure how to get back to square one, as I simply never tried it before. I am lazy when it comes to my OS, when something goes wrong my instinct is to just wipe and install the OS clean again, which always fixes things for me. HEY, but that would be a really good way to make sure its not software related though, lol. Right? Clean OS and clean drivers and if you have the same problem, then it's definitely the display.
> 
> What is your monitor doing again? It only works "correctly" in Safe Mode?


I didn't change a thing, because I figured it's not an OC panel. This was the first time I noticed it's running at 64Hz in safe mode. It runs run in the bios and safe mode at 800 x 600, but green blinking light as soon as Windows loads. I did an in-place reinstall of Windows and put in the oldest nVidia drivers I could find. I guess I could try deleting that "generic non-pnp" driver in safe mode and installing this OC driver. I found five other people who had this issue in this thread, but no solution other than the 80Hz guy, who had intentionally set it at 80Hz earlier.

Oh, on Craigslist. I think ebay would be more reliable, but more expensive.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikvoid*
> 
> I didn't change a thing, because I figured it's not an OC panel. This was the first time I noticed it's running at 64Hz in safe mode. It runs run in the bios and safe mode at 800 x 600, but green blinking light as soon as Windows loads. I did an in-place reinstall of Windows and put in the oldest nVidia drivers I could find. I guess I could try deleting that "generic non-pnp" driver in safe mode and installing this OC driver. I found five other people who had this issue in this thread, but no solution other than the 80Hz guy, who had intentionally set it at 80Hz earlier.
> 
> Oh, on Craigslist. I think ebay would be more reliable, but more expensive.


Ahh I see. Yeah in that case you might have a PCB going out, or the TCON or the panel itself. I have no experience with that problem sorry. But I do know how to physically repair them, so long it is the PS, TCON or Controller board aka PCB. Does your Video Card have a DVI port? Because I would gamble that it's the PCB input board that is having the issue, and since the replacement kit comes with its own TCON you kill two birds with one monetary stone. The ONLY issue then becomes will you be able to mount it inside the monitor, and will your power supply be the proper one? lol

Lots of if's and maybe's haha.

Have you tried different cables?
Have you tried a different video card, just for the heck of it?
Have you kicked it yet or hit it with a hammer?
Have you cursed at it yet? lol

Oh and while in the 800x600 mode do you see any lines or funky colors, any very weird stuff other than the 800x600 limit and 64hz limit?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nikvoid*
> 
> I didn't change a thing, because I figured it's not an OC panel. This was the first time I noticed it's running at 64Hz in safe mode. It runs run in the bios and safe mode at 800 x 600, but green blinking light as soon as Windows loads. I did an in-place reinstall of Windows and put in the oldest nVidia drivers I could find. I guess I could try deleting that "generic non-pnp" driver in safe mode and installing this OC driver. I found five other people who had this issue in this thread, but no solution other than the 80Hz guy, who had intentionally set it at 80Hz earlier.
> 
> Oh, on Craigslist. I think ebay would be more reliable, but more expensive.


Hey that ebay seller replied and said your display will work with the below kit. However, it's a combo board with dvi, hdmi and displayport connections, and I am not sure your power supply is the same plug or voltage, so you may have to ask them for a power supply model number, or to supply it. Its also more $ than I was expecting, but it sounds like there might be some wiggle room on cost maybe. But at least it provides an option and they have plenty of them and it should work perfectly with SDB3. But so would that overclock DVI only kit for less money as it comes with a new tcon.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371526250284

Thought you might like to know. Oh and the email I got in response is quoted below.
Quote:


> Dear Friend,
> 
> Thank you very much for your question. For your lcd LM270WQ1-SDB3 , we would like to introduce you to this kit http://www.ebay.com/itm/371526250284 . It is suitable for your lcd, we can prepare a right kit for it. We have successful example for it. Please notice that the panel cable will be changed to fit with LM270WQ1-SDB3 and however the price is the same. Will you think about it?
> 
> Looking forwards to doing business with you and hope you enjoy shopping with us!
> 
> Have a great day!
> 
> Sabrina


----------



## latprod

Hey guys, been a catleap 2b owner for about three years, and I can do a maximum of 100hz (it's been steady no matter what card i use) and that's fine. Nvidia gtx 1080 btw...
However, I am using the timings in the OC guide from the front page, and the first 5-10 mins of using it i get a spattering of small green vertical lines that seem to fade out after a little while.
Is this normal?
should i be aiming for a lower OC? if so, what ?
Does anyone have different timings i can try to rectify the problem? I dont need 120hz as 100hz is pretty damn good when compared to 60.


----------



## AcidNfection

Hi all, quick Catleap Q270 question for you all as I could not find the answer on the net. I want to purchase a Elgato HD60 pro capture card for my stream on Twitch but noticed that the elgato uses 2 HDMI ports and the Catleap Q270 only uses DVI-D. Will an adampter to HDMI work for this so I can connect the capture card? Or what suggestions would you guys have for me? Thanks for everyones time and help!


----------



## AJCxZ0

Unqualified answers follow. I don't stream or capture and haven't tried any HDMI/DVI-D adapters, but have followed the thread from the start.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AcidNfection*
> 
> Elgato HD60 pro capture card ... uses 2 HDMI ports and the Catleap Q270 only uses DVI-D. Will an adampter to HDMI work for this so I can connect the capture card?


Almost certainly not.
Quote:


> Or what suggestions would you guys have for me?


The Elgato HD60 appears to take HDMI input and offers pass-thru so that you can connect a monitor by HDMI, but is there any reason you can't send the HDMI output of your video card to the HD60 and DVD-D to your Catleap? You may have to set up dual output, mirrored screens or similar.

Given that the HD60 caputres up to 1080p60 while the Catleap displays 1440p60 I would expect you to want dual video output anyway, but that may be because i don't understand how capture cards work.


----------



## renkin

Hey all,

my catleap is behaving weirdly. Did anyone had the screen not booting but showing the regular green light nonetheless ?

Quick resume : got it years ago and always worked well until it didnt boot and got the blinking green light.

After ruling out the gpu I opened the screen and reconnected every connector I could find. It booted, got to the green light strong and stable, but the screen is black. No backlighting either.

Thanks.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *latprod*
> 
> Hey guys, been a catleap 2b owner for about three years, and I can do a maximum of 100hz (it's been steady no matter what card i use) and that's fine. Nvidia gtx 1080 btw...
> However, I am using the timings in the OC guide from the front page, and the first 5-10 mins of using it i get a spattering of small green vertical lines that seem to fade out after a little while.
> Is this normal?
> should i be aiming for a lower OC? if so, what ?
> Does anyone have different timings i can try to rectify the problem? I dont need 120hz as 100hz is pretty damn good when compared to 60.


Just drop it to 96Hz and check again. You wont notice any difference, but the monitor will, or should. In fact, keep dropping it slowly if 96Hz doesn't fix it. Maybe 1Hz at a time. Anything above the 80's will likely feel much like the 100 did, or not far from it I would think.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkin*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> my catleap is behaving weirdly. Did anyone had the screen not booting but showing the regular green light nonetheless ?
> 
> Quick resume : got it years ago and always worked well until it didnt boot and got the blinking green light.
> 
> After ruling out the gpu I opened the screen and reconnected every connector I could find. It booted, got to the green light strong and stable, but the screen is black. No backlighting either.
> 
> Thanks.


Probably dying or dead PCB is my guess


----------



## renkin

Hey all,

my catleap is behaving weirdly. Did anyone had the screen not booting but showing the regular green light nonetheless ?

Quick resume : got it years ago and always worked well until it didnt boot and got the blinking green light.

After ruling out the gpu I opened the screen and reconnected every connector I could find. It booted, got to the green light strong and stable, but the screen is black. No backlighting either.

Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Probably dying or dead PCB is my guess


Hey, thanks for replying. I'm guessing there s no pcb to be bought from somewhere ? Mywarranty expried and I couldn't find anything on ebay.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkin*
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> my catleap is behaving weirdly. Did anyone had the screen not booting but showing the regular green light nonetheless ?
> 
> Quick resume : got it years ago and always worked well until it didnt boot and got the blinking green light.
> 
> After ruling out the gpu I opened the screen and reconnected every connector I could find. It booted, got to the green light strong and stable, but the screen is black. No backlighting either.
> 
> Thanks.
> Hey, thanks for replying. I'm guessing there s no pcb to be bought from somewhere ? Mywarranty expried and I couldn't find anything on ebay.


Its one of those things, where the only way to know what it is, is to replace parts I guess. So long you verify its not a GPU or cable, then you can move on to the possibility of the power supply or internals.

I don't know exactly what panel you have, but there are many PCB's on ebay still. Just verify your actual panel model and search for the control board using the panels number, especially the last 4 digits. Or try and remove the PCB from the display and find some possible identification. You might get lucky, who knows. The power supply will be very easy to find, and possibly even quite cheap to try a new one. Several people here have had problems similar to yours and it was just a failing power supply. Granted I cant be sure if your symptoms are the same or not.

just a few of the ebay item numbers I found within a few seconds. Some are just dumbed down DP input boards that will work at 1440p ONLY using your GPU's built in scaling engine, and the DVI one is an actual overclocking board that could possibly run as high as 100Hz using DVI.

272218036587
162542874154
192203187409


----------



## renkin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Its one of those things, where the only way to know what it is, is to replace parts I guess. So long you verify its not a GPU or cable, then you can move on to the possibility of the power supply or internals.
> 
> I don't know exactly what panel you have, but there are many PCB's on ebay still. Just verify your actual panel model and search for the control board using the panels number, especially the last 4 digits. Or try and remove the PCB from the display and find some possible identification. You might get lucky, who knows. The power supply will be very easy to find, and possibly even quite cheap to try a new one. Several people here have had problems similar to yours and it was just a failing power supply. Granted I cant be sure if your symptoms are the same or not.
> 
> just a few of the ebay item numbers I found within a few seconds. Some are just dumbed down DP input boards that will work at 1440p ONLY using your GPU's built in scaling engine, and the DVI one is an actual overclocking board that could possibly run as high as 100Hz using DVI.
> 
> 272218036587
> 162542874154
> 192203187409


Ahh thanks, I wan't searching with the panel numbers, that explains the lack of results. Mine is a catleap 2b with nothing but an dvi input. Gotta lurk here to find out if I can put any pcb in that. Might just buy a new power supply and a cable for sanity check before doing that.

Cheers


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *renkin*
> 
> Ahh thanks, I wan't searching with the panel numbers, that explains the lack of results. Mine is a catleap 2b with nothing but an dvi input. Gotta lurk here to find out if I can put any pcb in that. Might just buy a new power supply and a cable for sanity check before doing that.
> 
> Cheers


Yeah key is looking at how they list them and then apply that to your own search parameters. On the back of your panel will be a long model (part#) number such as LM270WQ1-SDDB. Those last four is what mine has, and was originally intended to go into a HP Z1 Workstation. Yours will be different probably, and but have probably the same TCON board. If it does then the $60 option will work great for you. Which is what I did. This all assumes that your Panel is OK of course, which it should be I would think.

I created a thread on how to build these yourself, sort of, and took pics of all the parts you will be dealing with.

This would or should work great, as it is probably what you have now. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162542874154 (this is the kit they were selling in mass quantity years ago to turn these monitors into overclocking 1440p's). I can't guarantee that is what you have but its a good bet. And the good thing is it comes with the new tcon, new cables and the power button too. No guarantees these will fit inside your displays case, but that is up to you to figure out mounting options. The main thing is to get the screen to work again.

Or buy a new display altogether.


----------



## latprod

Thank you







I will try that asap

edit: whoops, a little fast there. That was for}SkOrPn--' and his reply.


----------



## AcidNfection

Sorry for the late response was on vacation in Belgium. Thanks for the answer and I will see what I can do!!


----------



## RazorLV

Hi,

Yesterday I accidentally unplugged monitor and plugged it back in while it was connected with HDMI and at that moment sparks came out from HDMI port. And of course it died









So my question can I still get replacement PCB that would work with HDMI input?

Monitor: Yamakasi Q270 Multi
Panel: LM270WQ1-SDB3
Maybe model for board: HY - 9685L & 9785D Rev.01 (nothing in google)


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RazorLV*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> Yesterday I accidentally unplugged monitor and plugged it back in while it was connected with HDMI and at that moment sparks came out from HDMI port. And of course it died
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So my question can I still get replacement PCB that would work with HDMI input?
> 
> Monitor: Yamakasi Q270 Multi
> Panel: LM270WQ1-SDB3
> Maybe model for board: HY - 9685L & 9785D Rev.01 (nothing in google)


I'm not sure if you will find those items, but it doesn't hurt to ask around.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Board-T-CON-Board-for-27inch-2560x1440-LCD-LM270WQ1-SDB3-LM270WQ1-SDE3-/192203187411

Ask this guy if his kit will work for you but make sure your power supply will work too (which I doubt). This will at least give you 2560x1440 native without any extra controls. And I believe its display port only too, but not sure on that. Send them a message and be thorough with questions and offer pictures as well of your pcb and the tcon connected directly to the panel. These will fix your issue if its not the panel or tcon itself causing the problem.


----------



## RazorLV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> I'm not sure if you will find those items, but it doesn't hurt to ask around.
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/DP-Board-T-CON-Board-for-27inch-2560x1440-LCD-LM270WQ1-SDB3-LM270WQ1-SDE3-/192203187411
> 
> Ask this guy if his kit will work for you but make sure your power supply will work too (which I doubt). This will at least give you 2560x1440 native without any extra controls. And I believe its display port only too, but not sure on that. Send them a message and be thorough with questions and offer pictures as well of your pcb and the tcon connected directly to the panel. These will fix your issue if its not the panel or tcon itself causing the problem.


Thanks for that link.

I also found this: https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Lg-Ips-27-Overclock-Monitor-Pcb-Set-W-Tcon-Dvi-Cables-For-Lm270-Wq1-Panels/369885120 but not sure if power adapter will work. Messaged seller but my sent messages keep disappearing after while so no idea if they actually reach seller


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RazorLV*
> 
> Thanks for that link.
> 
> I also found this: https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Lg-Ips-27-Overclock-Monitor-Pcb-Set-W-Tcon-Dvi-Cables-For-Lm270-Wq1-Panels/369885120 but not sure if power adapter will work. Messaged seller but my sent messages keep disappearing after while so no idea if they actually reach seller


Make sure to always check the "send to my email address" box that way you know if the message actually gets sent or not.

You also have the option to purchase one of those overclocking kits for less money too. It has everything you need except for the power supply. I can provide a link to those items as well if you want. Just remember those overclocking kits are great options but also are only DVI unfortunately. That's what I plan on using until DVI is completely extinct or I get a new display, which ever comes first. Lol

Lol never mind I see you already found the overclocking kit yourself, lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RazorLV*
> 
> Thanks for that link.
> 
> I also found this: https://www.bonanza.com/listings/Lg-Ips-27-Overclock-Monitor-Pcb-Set-W-Tcon-Dvi-Cables-For-Lm270-Wq1-Panels/369885120 but not sure if power adapter will work. Messaged seller but my sent messages keep disappearing after while so no idea if they actually reach seller


Here is the Power Supply I used. I got the Top Power because they are a major manufacturer of power supplies for companies such as HP, Dell etc.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/for-24V-5A-Effinet-EFL-2202W-FY2405000-LCD-Monitor-Ac-Adapter-4-pin-Tip-/371165709251

However, any PSU model EFL-2202W or FY2405000, which is a 24V 5A power supply should work. Just make sure the plug looks like the one below. They are differently pinned as I discovered myself, so I would find a meter and test each pin myself before you plug it up. But that's me...


----------



## mav451

Hmm I'm not longer able to install the Catleap INF after updating to Win10 Build 1703.
I keep getting the "parameter is incorrect" message, this is even after restarting with Option 7 (Unsigned driver installation) and enabling Test Mode.

Anyone with experience?

*Update 8/1 - I figured this one out by myself. Saw a similar question on 120hz.net, so I knew I wasn't alone.
A couple things that probably helped.
1) My INF file was old (2012). A quick Google search and Toasty linked a newer file from April 2017.
2) My CRU was also a bit older, 1.2.6 vs 1.3. Big difference? I have no idea.

Well whatever it was, high refresh rates are working again and I can hold-off on purchasing Gsync/Fsync for a couple more years


----------



## Degree

Is it worth buying a PCB to OC or am I better off just buying a new monitor. Wanting to make the leap to 144hz and there are $150 options around.

Asking because the PCB is already so expensive and since I can get a dedicated 144hz monitor for just a little more, not sure if it's worth it.

I do have the issue where sometimes on boot, the monitor will display a black screen + green stripes, simply turning them monitor on and off till it goes back to normal is what I usually do. It's been happening for almost a year now and I'm just dreading the day it just dies.

I have the first generation model without speakers/multi that I bought from greensum when it first came to market.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Please show me a decent 27" 1440p 144Hz display for $150. I never heard of that before, so heck yes I might like to do that myself but only if the screen beats this S-IPS. If your current display is dying do not spend a bloody dime on a new pcb, unless you know for sure its the pcb at fault. If your in the USA the PCB is only $78 total.


----------



## Degree

Never said a 1440p 144hz monitor, just 144hz.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Ahh shucks.... Yeah then that sounds like you need to make that decision yourself. Definitely weigh everything that is important to you.

For most I would think 1440p or higher at 100-120Hz would be far more important than 1080p (or even 1200P) at 144Hz. No one can really see the difference from 100Hz to 144Hz (I haven't yet), but 1440p at 108 PPI it is general considered the sweetspot for gaming. At that PPI or above many games don't even need things like AA and AF. I wouldn't give up 1440p for nothing short of 4K at 100Hz and at least 110 PPI or higher, or maybe Ultrawide 1440p with freesync. You also have to consider the life spans of these PCB's, which seem to me to be fairly low like 3-6 years or something. But I don't see a bit of difference from my brothers 144Hz or this 1440p at 96Hz.

Now if it has FreeSync for future proofing, or Gsync if you only do NVIDIA, I think I could be made to sway. The ONLY display I would buy to replace this would be a $600+ 1440p doing at least 100Hz with FreeSync 2. Even if it had 1 Million Hz I wouldn't go back to 1080p, or under 27". Now ALL this changes if your into very fast competitive FPS games and have a very low latency ISP to keep up with your low latency gaming rig. I only do first person single player games myself, or even games such as The Talos Principle. However, I would go with 144Hz if I had to be competitive with online gaming where every millisecond counted.

The PCB is only $69 or something right?


----------



## renkin

Hello all, I'm in the process of replacing my graphic card.
My monitor only had a dvi input and my future card might not have one, because of gpu market









I was wondering what experience people had with HDMI or DP to DVI converter with those catleaps ?
Using converters before certain gpu / dvi inputs didn't always worked for me.

Cheers


----------



## beniroc

I bought this one for my 1080ti FE and my catleap and haven't had no problems.

https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1504055737&sr=8-28&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active+adapter


----------



## renkin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *beniroc*
> 
> I bought this one for my 1080ti FE and my catleap and haven't had no problems.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Accell-B087B-002B-UltraAV-DisplayPort-Dual-Link/dp/B002ISVI3U/ref=sr_1_28?ie=UTF8&qid=1504055737&sr=8-28&keywords=displayport+to+dvi+active+adapter


Wow I had no idea a converter could be that priced, but it seems to be super high quality. Thanks


----------



## GnarlyCharlie

My trusty Catleap 2B has been in daily use since 2012, but I think it's having some issues. Recently, some of the light grey areas of websites have turned pinkish. I don't notice it on my wallpaper picture, that looks fine, but light grey next to white is definitely pinkish. And when the Windows splash screen pops up, it has a "bullseye" effect of concentric banding - like a low res TV picture. The effect is similar to this TV pic I found:


----------



## futr_vision

Back when I got my 3 Catleaps they were about $300 each and it was pretty easy to find video cards that still had dual DVI ports although it was much harder to find a card that could support 2 Dual DVI monitors at the same time without an adapter.

That's not the case now. Everything is pretty much Displayport. So here is my question. What's today's equivalent of a Catleap? Or can I upgrade my current Catleaps to work with newer video cards?


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> What's today's equivalent of a Catleap?


The 2560x1440 WQHD IPS panels are still being sold in a variety of monitors and still represent good value as "4K" IPS panels creep down in price and the dubious fast refresh "gaming" monitors keep other prices up.

Now these panel are being sold in many markets. Recently I bought a "pixel perfect" one from Monoprice with a very nice aluminium chassis and stand with DVI+HDMI+DP inputs for US$237.99 delivered. You can still pick up refurbished and open box older models for under $150 as well as new models from Monoprice.



My Catleap Q270 LED, bought for $289.99 from green-sum on eBay in Jun 2012, is still going strong.

To answer your question - interpreted as what is the current years-ahead-in-tech-yet-affordable monitor - I don't know, but the convergence of home theater displays (a.k.a. TVs) and computer displays (a.k.a. monitors) suggests that your next "monitor" will be a "4K" OLED or similar with support for various HDR standards.


----------



## futr_vision

B
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJCxZ0*
> 
> Now these panel are being sold in many markets. Recently I bought a "pixel perfect" one from Monoprice with a very nice aluminium chassis and stand with DVI+HDMI+DP inputs for US$237.99 delivered. You can still pick up refurbished and open box older models for under $150 as well as new models from Monoprice.


Wow! That is pretty cheap for a 27". I don't think I need 4K right now although that would be nice. The plan for my new rig is a multi-use one. I'll be doing a little gaming on it but I primarily see it being used for a few tasks. What panels are they using?


Creative work including video and sound editing and rendering - You could argue I need 4K for this.
Machine learning
Crypto mining

It's only the creative work I might want 4K for and that is even questionable since 4K isn't quite as ubiquitous yet as 2K.

Is there an option to upgrade my Catleaps? I imagine trying to replace the board is going to be just as expensive as just buying a new one.


----------



## Degree

Does anyone still have color profiles for the monitor? The ones in the OP are dead, didn't realize my monitor didn't have the color profile applied anymore


----------



## DiaSin

Is there anything that can be done about a panel bruise? Mine has done this before on its own, and it always went away over time, but this time its worse than usual, and doesn't seem to be fading.


----------



## Degree

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DiaSin*
> 
> Is there anything that can be done about a panel bruise? Mine has done this before on its own, and it always went away over time, but this time its worse than usual, and doesn't seem to be fading.


Actually have the same problem, it happens randomly and it goes away over time/turning monitor off/on helps. Not sure if anything can be done, I've just come to accept that it's just dying and currently waiting for a good deal on a 144hz 1440p monitor around black friday


----------



## kevandjamie

I made the leap on bought a Yamakasi Catleap yesterday. I verified it was working properly with my 13" MBP and a HDMI to DVI-D connector. Image quality was great no dead pixels.

I brought it home, using the same cable and plugged it into my desktop Win 10 computer. No image showed up on the monitor. I tried again using a DVI to DVI cable and this happened:


http://imgur.com/aGFo2


1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
GTX 1050 Ti
2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
The problem occurred prior to any driver installation. I could not get any of the NVIDIA OC drivers to install (even with test mode enabled) so searching the forums I found a driver that "Toasty" uploaded that other people seemed to have success with and installed that. But it didn't change my odd 4 screens in 1 issue.
3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
The HDMI to DVI-D cable works perfectly with my 13" MBP, however an image won't even show up when I use it with my 1050 Ti.
4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
Tried this, no changes.

Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated!


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *futr_vision*
> 
> Wow! That is pretty cheap for a 27". I don't think I need 4K right now although that would be nice.


I shouldn't mention the 32" QHD "WVA" (AVHA) panel HP Pavillion 32q I got for work for $209 or the Avera Equinox 55EQX20 55" UHD LED TV for $250 - both from NewEgg, but have done so to give an idea of recent deals.

My Catleap Q270 is still my primary display in my office.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevandjamie*
> 
> I tried again using a DVI to DVI cable and this happened:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/aGFo2


While I don't use Windows, I'd guess that this is a software or driver setting since you're seeing a picture, so you might want to keep working on those drivers.

You don't mention specifically that your GTX 1050 Ti has a Dual-Link DVI-D connector and that you're using a DVI-D cable (like this free-after-MIR ten foot Rosewill RCAB-11054).

[Still getting no kick-backs from NewEgg.]


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevandjamie*
> 
> I made the leap on bought a Yamakasi Catleap yesterday. I verified it was working properly with my 13" MBP and a HDMI to DVI-D connector. Image quality was great no dead pixels.
> 
> I brought it home, using the same cable and plugged it into my desktop Win 10 computer. No image showed up on the monitor. I tried again using a DVI to DVI cable and this happened:
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/aGFo2
> 
> 
> 1. What type of GPU do you have installed?
> GTX 1050 Ti
> 2. Current drivers installed (clean install was attempted)?
> The problem occurred prior to any driver installation. I could not get any of the NVIDIA OC drivers to install (even with test mode enabled) so searching the forums I found a driver that "Toasty" uploaded that other people seemed to have success with and installed that. But it didn't change my odd 4 screens in 1 issue.
> 3. Tried different DVI cable - either new or from a known working monitor?
> The HDMI to DVI-D cable works perfectly with my 13" MBP, however an image won't even show up when I use it with my 1050 Ti.
> 4. Unplugged all other monitors and tried just plugging Catleap in BOTH outputs on your GPU?
> Tried this, no changes.
> 
> Any thoughts or suggestions are appreciated!


Did you figure this out yet?


----------



## kevandjamie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AJCxZ0*
> 
> I shouldn't mention the 32" QHD "WVA" (AVHA) panel HP Pavillion 32q I got for work for $209 or the Avera Equinox 55EQX20 55" UHD LED TV for $250 - both from NewEgg, but have done so to give an idea of recent deals.
> 
> My Catleap Q270 is still my primary display in my office.
> While I don't use Windows, I'd guess that this is a software or driver setting since you're seeing a picture, so you might want to keep working on those drivers.
> 
> You don't mention specifically that your GTX 1050 Ti has a Dual-Link DVI-D connector and that you're using a DVI-D cable (like this free-after-MIR ten foot Rosewill RCAB-11054).
> 
> [Still getting no kick-backs from NewEgg.]


Thanks for the tips. I feel stupid now, but I purchased an additional DVI-D cable to replace my old cable, and suddenly everything is working perfectly. Able to refresh to a stable 110hz. Thanks for your help!


----------



## kevandjamie

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> Did you figure this out yet?


Yeah... silly enough, I just had to purchase another DVI-D cable and everything started working. I'm at 110hz and everything is beautiful!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevandjamie*
> 
> Yeah... silly enough, I just had to purchase another DVI-D cable and everything started working. I'm at 110hz and everything is beautiful!


Yesterday I typed up a large reply to let you know it was either hardware or the cable, and most definitely NOT a driver or software issue. But after like 15 minutes of typing I lost interest and realized a week had gone by so figured you might had figured it out yourself. These Catleaps are prone to cable issues and or video card incompatibilities. My 5870 does not work with this display until the OS loads the actual drivers then it works flawlessly, but things like BIOS screens or UEFI screens fail from the Radeon HD 5000 series cards, even though earlier and later cards work fine. So therefor I was thinking a incompatibility with your 1050 OR a cable issue. And who knows why it worked from your laptop. These Catleaps also do not like adapter type cables for some reason. I cant get ANY cable other than DVI to DVI to work no matter the quality, unless I swap out the PCB for a DisplayPort type input board, but then I am forced to 60 Hz max.

I built my own Catleap type display as I didn't trust Yamakasi or any of the other Korean shops to send me a truly perfect pixel display. So I built it myself and learned a lot in the process. It still works flawlessly but it needs a newer video card some day soon.

Happy you fixed yours....


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Well guys and gals, looks like our 27" cheap Korean Overclocking monitors have been finally bested by a new unbelievable Korean 144Hz 1440p 27" IPS monitor WITH ONLY 3.9mm bezels, and from Crossover. LOL

https://www.ebay.com/itm/US-Perfect-Crossover-27-FAST-144-FreeSync-Zero-QHD-144Hz-Monitor-Remote/322833493048


----------



## kevandjamie

Of course, right after I buy a nice used Yamakasi Catleap.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevandjamie*
> 
> Of course, right after I buy a nice used Yamakasi Catleap.


Lol, yeah as soon as I saw the zero ghosting I realized what a good deal that is. IPS, 144Hz, 1440p, 27" for only $299, when others with the same specs are around $500 to $600. Not sure I want another 27" though, as I think I want to settle on the 34" ultrawide 1440p size eventually.


----------



## AJCxZ0

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *}SkOrPn--'*
> 
> 144Hz 1440p 27" IPS monitor


That nonsense "AH-VA(IPS)" panel isn't an IPS panel like in your Catleap, it's an AH-VA panel. Different panel technologies have different advantages, but beware making fruity comparisons.

This specific model looks almost exactly like the $279.99 Monoprice 27-inch AHVA, though it doesn't claim to be a "144 Hz".

Monoprice also has1440 IPS panels including $149.99 for the 27in IPS-ZERO-G Slim and $249.99 for the 30-inch IPS LED Backlit, refurbished, which is the same price as a "27in 4K 3840x2160 ActiveHDR AMD FreeSync Desktop Monitor with Aluminum Bezel".

Since I already posted about my Monoprice 27" and HP 32" 1440 IPS monitors, I'll not mention them again here.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

AHVA (Advanced Hyper Viewing Angles) is IPS and uses In-Plane Switching technology, the only difference is very slightly less color, but with better contrast and lower latency. No gamer on Earth would care about the color differences unless your a true professional that needs perfect color reproduction. I am ONLY talking about a decent gaming display here with 144Hz frequency and a 3.9mm bezel for multi display setups. None of the displays you showed come even remotely close to these specs.

I want ZERO bezel, (or close to it) and 144Hz with at least a 1440p res, on at least a minimum of a 27" panel (preferably 34" for me) in order to get near the 110 PPI that is perfect for gaming. THOSE are the specs that matter here. The microscopic color differences between IPS and VA-HA is minuscule at best and not something to even remotely consider in the context of gaming. AHVA to IPS color differences is like the very last spec I would care about. My money has to go on REAL worth while difference making things such as speed, contrast, PPI and fast pixel switching.

So when I posted that Korean display I did so because it has the specs that matter the most. S-IPS, H-IPS, Super PLS and AHVA IPS type panels are generally considered the best all around panel types and its about time they are using them for gaming displays, which is usually TN simply for its speeds.

$300 is perfect for this level of quality and speed, exactly what I have been waiting forever to see, these specific specs at a cost this low. If only it was a 34" Ultrawide for $300 instead, lol.

*In order of gaming performance needs:*
1. Frequency (extremely noticeable)
2. Latency (extremely noticeable)
3. Contrast (noticeable)
4. Pixels Per Inch (PPI) (noticeable)
5. Bezel size (smaller is much better here)(extremely noticeable)
6. Color (no one notices or cares about this when gaming which is why TN has always been preferred for gaming panels for its speeds)

Color comes last, and AHVA is too close to true IPS to even care about or consider, UNLESS of course you are a true Professional. The whole reason for these Yamakasi threads was because it was IPS that could be overclocked for gaming needs, but with moderate ghosting.


----------



## REAN1MAT0R

does anyone can reach more than 110hz stable?
i just create cru resolution with "reduced" timings preset with gtx680, 7970, 290x, 1080, 1080ti
mb manual timing switching can give 120hz or more ?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *REAN1MAT0R*
> 
> does anyone can reach more than 110hz stable?
> i just create cru resolution with "reduced" timings preset with gtx680, 7970, 290x, 1080, 1080ti
> mb manual timing switching can give 120hz or more ?


My setup reached 110 just fine, and I think the max for me was like 113 or so. But I have not tried overclocking it in a few years now, so I do not know if anything has changed. But yes, 110Hz was working for me perfectly back in 2014, which was the last time I really gamed on it.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

Does anyone know the thread size of screws required for the catleap to Vesa mount? I bought some M6 and M8 but those are much too big. Is it an M4 threading size? Thanks y'all. Ready to mount this monitor after 5 years but I don't have the right screws! Hahaha


----------



## NinjaSushi2

}SkOrPn--' said:


> *In order of gaming performance needs:*
> 1. Frequency (extremely noticeable)
> 2. Latency (extremely noticeable)
> 3. Contrast (noticeable)
> 4. Pixels Per Inch (PPI) (noticeable)
> 5. Bezel size (smaller is much better here)(extremely noticeable)
> 6. Color (no one notices or cares about this when gaming which is why TN has always been preferred for gaming panels for its speeds)
> 
> Color comes last, and AHVA is too close to true IPS to even care about or consider, UNLESS of course you are a true Professional. The whole reason for these Yamakasi threads was because it was IPS that could be overclocked for gaming needs, but with moderate ghosting.


Not true. For me color is the most important or one of. It's gotta look good. Also this thread wasn't started for overclocking. It was started because when it came out, the catleap only cost about 250 for a spectacular 27" IPS. Back in 2012 that was hella rare.


----------



## NinjaSushi2

To anyone whoever Googles this thread.

The thread size required to VESA mount the monitor is M4 threading.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

NinjaSushi2 said:


> To anyone whoever Googles this thread.
> 
> The thread size required to VESA mount the monitor is M4 threading.


I wish I knew how to like comments on this new forum software we are using but I do not. So, I will like in person. Thanks for sharing that with the Yamakasi Catleap community.


----------



## boot318

The new forum made searching for questions horrible. Can't even see the pics in this thread.... 




Does anyone know where to buy the OCing PCB board from?


----------



## bluescreenlife

When trying to install the driver listed in the Nvidia Overclocking information under the first post, even with signature verification disabled, I get a message that says "the parameter is incorrect." Any know how to fix this and get it to accept the driver?


----------



## ToastyX

bluescreenlife said:


> When trying to install the driver listed in the Nvidia Overclocking information under the first post, even with signature verification disabled, I get a message that says "the parameter is incorrect." Any know how to fix this and get it to accept the driver?


Use the updated driver here: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

ToastyX said:


> Use the updated driver here: https://www.monitortests.com/forum/Thread-Catleap-QNIX-Tempest-X-Star-monitor-inf-files


Hi ToastyX

Thanks for posting those inf files again. 

To anyone else who finds this thread looking for info on AMD 7th Gen APU's (Radeon R7 specifically). I just tried this display using the overclock pcb with DVI-D on a AMD A8-9600 APU and it too doesn't work. If you connect a secondary monitor, the Catleap is completely dark and the light blinks, but if its the only display connected I do get some video but its badly garbled and it looks like the desktop is multiplied by 8, yes 8 tiny desktops one on top of the other with tons of static looking stuff all over it. Completely unusable. I tried the Catleap inf, but it does nothing to fix it. It was worth a try.

I might just convert this LG IPS panel to DP here soon as it's only $45 for me to do so. Getting tired of all the compatibility issues with this panel. lol


----------



## eternal7trance

I seem to have lost the little piece that has all the buttons on it that controls the monitor. If anyone has a broken catleap and can mail me the spare part that is the little chip with the monitor buttons on it, I'll pay you for it.

The model I have is a catleap q270 SE 27". Thanks in advance.


----------



## boot318

Highly doubt I get an answer but does anyone know where to get the LVDS cables for the HY-2560M controller board? Would be nice If someone has a broke one and kept the LVDS cables.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

boot318 said:


> Highly doubt I get an answer but does anyone know where to get the LVDS cables for the HY-2560M controller board? Would be nice If someone has a broke one and kept the LVDS cables.


You might have more success just buying a complete kit for it, or converting it to 60Hz display port instead. I am finding it increasingly more and more difficult to find the Overclocking PCB and other LVDS related stuff for this panel. But the DP conversion kits are all still available from multiple sellers. You will obviously need to find a non-LVDS TCON to match though, but the seller will have a full list of TCON boards that work on your panel.

I myself will be buying the display port conversion kit just to have around when my LVDS system up and dies. OR, when I can't find any more decent DVI based GPU's, lol...


----------



## boot318

}SkOrPn--' said:


> You might have more success just buying a complete kit for it, or converting it to 60Hz display port instead. I am finding it increasingly more and more difficult to find the Overclocking PCB and other LVDS related stuff for this panel. But the DP conversion kits are all still available from multiple sellers. You will obviously need to find a non-LVDS TCON to match though, but the seller will have a full list of TCON boards that work on your panel.
> 
> I myself will be buying the display port conversion kit just to have around when my LVDS system up and dies. OR, when I can't find any more decent DVI based GPU's, lol...



I'm not sure if you got that same board I mentioned but I would rather break even selling it to you + the t-con (sla1) if I can't find LVDS cable. I thought the LVDS cable would be the easiest thing to find, but I was wrong. It is the hardest to find!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

boot318 said:


> I'm not sure if you got that same board I mentioned but I would rather break even selling it to you + the t-con (sla1) if I can't find LVDS cable. I thought the LVDS cable would be the easiest thing to find, but I was wrong. It is the hardest to find!


Yeah my self built overclocking display uses the same overclocking kit that yours uses. But I have not needed to look for those LVDS cables but when I was sourcing them to try and put together my own kits for sale it became apparently that it was not worth it. I would much rather convert to Display Port and just sadly lose the ability to overclock, which I plan to do soon. My original TCON was on the panel when I purchased it so I do not have to go looking for one as the one I have (SDDB) is brand new. I will just need the kit from ebay and of course a DP cable, and maybe some PSU work (not yet sure on that).

Not yet sure what my next GPU will be though but I suspect it will not have a DVI port, lol. Thinking of listing this naked panel for $250 on ebay and getting something newer anyway.


----------



## verick

I just replaced with Catleap with an Mbest 144hz, so I could sell parts to anyone that needs them. I have an set of overclocking capable PCBs as well.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

verick said:


> I just replaced with Catleap with an Mbest 144hz, so I could sell parts to anyone that needs them. I have an set of overclocking capable PCBs as well.


Thanks for posting this for others to see.


----------



## TomcatV

verick said:


> I just replaced with Catleap with an Mbest 144hz, so I could sell parts to anyone that needs them. I have an set of overclocking capable PCBs as well.


I'm curious as to how the 144HZ MBest compares to your 120HZ Catleap ... I don't know if I could ever go back to using a "Matte" finish panel compared to the glorious Glossy panel of the Catleap, especially for a few Hz faster refresh times? :O


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

TomcatV said:


> I'm curious as to how the 144HZ MBest compares to your 120HZ Catleap ... I don't know if I could ever go back to using a "Matte" finish panel compared to the glorious Glossy panel of the Catleap, especially for a few Hz faster refresh times? :O


Wow long time no see TomcatV. I finally pulled apart my system and retired my HD5870 which was really showing its age. This next week I plan on pairing my catleap with a, yes another old GPU the R9 290 Vapor-X (paid $50 bucks for that) and seeing if I can overclock it with the new AMD drivers, but not sure if the latest drivers allow panel overclocking since I have never used the new drivers. Besides the first few Months back in 2014 my Catleap has been at 60Hz the entire time, which probably means its still as healthy as it can be. Do you know if I can Overclock with 2018 Radeon drivers, or was that only something we could do with past drivers? Thinking about trying 90'ish Hz maximum just for a small improvement.

Anyway, hope all has been well with you...


----------



## verick

TomcatV said:


> I'm curious as to how the 144HZ MBest compares to your 120HZ Catleap ... I don't know if I could ever go back to using a "Matte" finish panel compared to the glorious Glossy panel of the Catleap, especially for a few Hz faster refresh times? :O


The matte finish works better for my current room layout, and isn't overly offensive. The backlight bleed is about the same, however the "ips glow" is worse. AUO panels aren't known for their great quality control, but until LG comes out with their high refresh rate panels they are the only game in the ips town.
I enjoyed the overclocking ability on the Catleap, so I am pleased that I can overclock the Mbest to 156hz on a DVI cable, and 174hz on a DP cable with no skipped frames.
I am also all about smaller bezels, so it is a big upgrade in that regard.

Overall, it is not that much of an upgrade, but my panel was developing yellow vertical lines (swapping pcbs did not effect the issue, so I can safely say it is the panel)
I have had the Catleap since 2012, so It has served me very well and was time to be retired.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

@verick, just curious (not a serious buyer) what would it cost to ship the entire catleap to USA 87059? I just want an empty case for my panel. My panel has never been housed in a monitor case yet. Not sure it ever will. lol


----------



## TomcatV

@verick ... thanks for the reply, detailed and professional. @$300 that MBest looks like a viable replacement for when the Glossy LG gives up the ghost. Why oh why no one offers a glossy anymore is beyond me ... I'd rep you but this "new" format stinks!

@}SkOrPn--' ... thanks for the concern! Went to AZ for almost a year to get my brother a new set of lungs :O ... about the same time OCN changed formats ... I got locked out and couldn't sign in for months with NO RESPONSE from OCN CS ... I lost interest! Still not sure I'll come back with any regularity as I hate this format! 

Edit PS: I still can't get into my account to read PM's/rig specs/etc etc ... still no response from OCN???  ***!!!


----------



## verick

It looks like it would be around $35 to ship the whole thing, I haven't weighed just the housing, so that may be a little cheaper.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

verick said:


> It looks like it would be around $35 to ship the whole thing, I haven't weighed just the housing, so that may be a little cheaper.


Thanks for checking. Does it look similar to this case below?

https://world.taobao.com/item/37901986337.htm


----------



## verick

That is an interesting find. The button section is completely different and has two extra buttons, the rear input section is wider, and it appears that is is flipped (power on top, DVI on bottom.) The stock stand on the Catleap was never good, but the one on that looks even worse, it does have VESA mounting points that are accessible without taking the casing apart versus the Catleap.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

verick said:


> That is an interesting find. The OSD section is completely different, the rear input section is wider, and it appears that is is flipped (power on top, DVI on bottom.) The stock stand on the Catleap was never good, but the one on that looks even worse, it does have VESA mounting points that are accessible without taking the casing apart versus the Catleap.


Yeah, I'm told the one at that link wobbles terribly. There are YouTube videos that show that exact monitor casing. My display is wrapped in Glass and hanging by 550 paracord since I built my own Catleap and it doesn't wobble at all, but it also isn't adjustable much either, lol. Once I move on I will probably need it in a case for the next owner, probably my Father. Thanks for the info.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

@TomcatV

Yeah I sent a PM to the mods to ask permission to sell my R3E and never once heard back from them. Since I have been here from 2009 and I know for fact I had plenty of Reps, I went a head and listed it anyway. I think the Mod that runs that section is now retired and they never replaced him? lol

Anyway, sorry to hear about the Brother's lungs. I used to smoke hard, up to 3 packs a day for about 17 years and then got very sick and couldn't breathe. Something clicked inside me one day and on New Years Eve 1997, moments after my Brother said "Rod, cigarettes are just too addicting for you to be able to quit"... I just looked at him and took my last puff and said Sorry No, nothing ever controls me, not ever. 21 years now and not a single cheat and I never will. If I may ask, what caused him to need new lungs?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Does anyone know if these bypass OC boards will work with the R9 290, Hawaii Pro based GPU?


----------



## boot318

verick said:


> I just replaced with Catleap with an Mbest 144hz, so I could sell parts to anyone that needs them. I have an set of overclocking capable PCBs as well.


Now I see this post after I bought a kit . Not the kit I wanted but it always me to squeeze a little OC (84hz) from my monitor. I have a LDK-LE256 controller board that I have.... but no lvds cable. Impossible to find anywhere, so I'll PM you to see you have the board/lvds cable. 




}SkOrPn--' said:


> Does anyone know if these bypass OC boards will work with the R9 290, Hawaii Pro based GPU?


Still need help with this? Did you use "atikmdag-patcher-1.4.6" then "CRU" to change the Hz?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

boot318 said:


> Still need help with this? Did you use "atikmdag-patcher-1.4.6" then "CRU" to change the Hz?


Yeah I did exactly that in order to go above 81Hz. I was surprised that the Radeon drivers will overclock from 60 to 81 without any 3rd party solution, but then I realized that 81Hz is the same as the stock max timing frequency of 330mhz that dual DVI supports. The patcher and Cru fixed it and now I'm at 96Hz. I did not need CRU because once it's patched you can overclock with AMD's driver's anyway. 

Thanks for replying though.


----------



## rubenmoniz

I don't know if this is the right place to post this or if anyone can help me but here goes.

I have all the parts to overclock my monitor but i am missing the pinout for the LVDS cable on the mainboard.

Checking the datasheet for the TCON board LM270WQ1-SLA1 I can know the pinout for the 51pin and 41pin connectors but there is no information for the mainboard LDK-LE256 so I am stuck, i can use a multimeter and find the grounds and vcc but the rest is impossible.

Does anyone know the pinout or the name/reference/link for the LVDS cables?

This image (from this thread) shows the cables and the board seems to be the same even tough its the HY-2560M:








@siberx posted that he mapped the pins but his image is dead and hes last been online in 2012 : https://www.overclock.net/forum/44-monitors-displays/1225919-yamakasi-catleap-monitor-club-212.html#post16887300


----------



## verick

rubenmoniz said:


> I don't know if this is the right place to post this or if anyone can help me but here goes.
> 
> I have all the parts to overclock my monitor but i am missing the pinout for the LVDS cable on the mainboard.
> 
> Checking the datasheet for the TCON board LM270WQ1-SLA1 I can know the pinout for the 51pin and 41pin connectors but there is no information for the mainboard LDK-LE256 so I am stuck, i can use a multimeter and find the grounds and vcc but the rest is impossible.
> 
> Does anyone know the pinout or the name/reference/link for the LVDS cables?


Tcon side from left to right, DVI board side from right to left with the DVI connector on the bottom, skipping the red sections which measure continuous to each other, so I think they are ground or power. 


Left connector
1 red
2 red
5 top 1 
6 bottom 1 
8 top 2nd 
9 bottom 2nd 
11 top 3 
12 bottom 3 
13 top 4
14 bottom 4
15 top 5
16 bottom 5
18 red
21 top 6
22 bottom 6
24 top 7
25 bottom 7
27 top 8
28 bottom 8 
29 top 9
30 bottom 9
31 top 10 
32 bottom 10
33 red
DVI side has a block of four red, two on top, two on bottom from right

Right connector

1 red
2 red
6 red
7 red
8 red
13 top 1 
14 bottom 1 
16 top 2
17 bottom 2
19 top 3
20 bottom 3
21 top 4
22 bottom 4
23 top 5
24 bottom 5
25 red
29 top 6
30 bottom 6
32 top 7
33 bottom 7
35 top 8
36 bottom 8
37 top 9
38 bottom 9
39 top 10 
40 bottom 10
43 red
45 red
46 red
51 red
DVI side has a block of ten red, 5 on top, 5 on bottom from right

This is measured by me using a multimeter, but it is on you if this is incorrect and you damage your board!


----------



## twokdavey

Does anyone have a place to get replacement pcb? Having weird issues with the monitor. Lasts for about 10 minutes before it drifts to black screen. I know it's not the cables or power supply because I actually have 2 of these monitors and that one has no issues at all with the cables. I opened it up and didnt really see any loose cabling/ odd sights inside. Only thing i can think of is replacing the pcb.. what do you guys suggest?


----------



## xchor

verick said:


> Tcon side from left to right, DVI board side from right to left with the DVI connector on the bottom, skipping the red sections which measure continuous to each other, so I think they are ground or power.
> 
> 
> Left connector
> 1 red
> 2 red
> 5 top 1
> 6 bottom 1
> 8 top 2nd
> 9 bottom 2nd
> 11 top 3
> 12 bottom 3
> 13 top 4
> 14 bottom 4
> 15 top 5
> 16 bottom 5
> 18 red
> 21 top 6
> 22 bottom 6
> 24 top 7
> 25 bottom 7
> 27 top 8
> 28 bottom 8
> 29 top 9
> 30 bottom 9
> 31 top 10
> 32 bottom 10
> 33 red
> DVI side has a block of four red, two on top, two on bottom from right
> 
> Right connector
> 
> 1 red
> 2 red
> 6 red
> 7 red
> 8 red
> 13 top 1
> 14 bottom 1
> 16 top 2
> 17 bottom 2
> 19 top 3
> 20 bottom 3
> 21 top 4
> 22 bottom 4
> 23 top 5
> 24 bottom 5
> 25 red
> 29 top 6
> 30 bottom 6
> 32 top 7
> 33 bottom 7
> 35 top 8
> 36 bottom 8
> 37 top 9
> 38 bottom 9
> 39 top 10
> 40 bottom 10
> 43 red
> 45 red
> 46 red
> 51 red
> DVI side has a block of ten red, 5 on top, 5 on bottom from right
> 
> This is measured by me using a multimeter, but it is on you if this is incorrect and you damage your board!




First of all... Thank you so much verick for taking the time to help out... I also am in the same situation as rubenmoniz... 

I looked at what you have posted and its helped but I am still a bit confused so i drew this up a bit... Does this look accurate?... Was trying to compare with the T-con pin-out but it seems some of the pins might mismatch... I am probably looking at something incorrectly and I would love any help clarifying... 

I attached the pin-out i was looking at for the t-con side... Maybe this isn't correct but I am not sure...


----------



## verick

xchor said:


> First of all... Thank you so much verick for taking the time to help out... I also am in the same situation as rubenmoniz...
> 
> I looked at what you have posted and its helped but I am still a bit confused so i drew this up a bit... Does this look accurate?... Was trying to compare with the T-con pin-out but it seems some of the pins might mismatch... I am probably looking at something incorrectly and I would love any help clarifying...
> 
> I attached the pin-out i was looking at for the t-con side... Maybe this isn't correct but I am not sure...


Yes, your diagram is correct in how I measured. It looks like they are going from right to left on the tcon side, so just reverse my pins, so on the 41 pin, my pin 33 is their pin 1. On the 51, my pin 40 is their pin 12. It looks like the DVI board isn't utilizing all of the power and ground points, also note to skip the 10 bit pins as noted on the spec sheet.

The only things that are confusing me are on the 51 pin, ODC, LVDS, PWM, and Bit Select. I will have to remeasure those.

Edit: The ODC pin, 6th from the right on the Tcon side, goes to the bottom third red on the DVI. The LVDS, 7th from the right goes to the top third red. The PWM, 9th from the right on the Tcon, goes to the bottom second red from the right. Bit select, 27, from the right(pin 25 on my sheet since I wrote left to right) goes to top second red from the right.

2nd edit: It also looks like the power pins are the top and bottom rightmost red wires on the 51 pin.


----------



## Sunreeper

Hey everyone, I've run into a problem with my monitor and I'm looking for some help. I have an overlord x270c, which as far as I'm aware is the same as the old overclockable yamakasi catleap monitors. When my monitor was overclocked and my computer is asleep waking up the computer would result in the windows 10 lockscreen not displaying correctly. Everything would be frozen so you couldn't see the mouse cursor move around. After around a minute, the monitor would slowly start displaying more of the lockscreen properly and cursor movement would be visible but there would be a trail (a trail of cursors if that makes sense). After another minute, the lockscreen would be displayed correctly and there would be no cursor trailing. At this point movement would be completely fine. Now, this is not the main issue I need help with. I just brought it up just in case it can help with identifying the main issue or if it's related to that issue.

So the main issue I'm having is that a couple of days ago my dad was messing with the breaker box in the house while the monitor was on. He shut down the electricity in my room. After he turned the electricity back on the monitor stopped displaying any image. The monitor still receives power as the green LED light turns on when pressing the power button. It also gets detected correctly by my computer. I've tried using a different dvi cable and that didn't help. I've also tried reinstalling my graphic drivers or booting into safe mode. I'm guessing this is an issue with the t-con board but I'm not sure. If anyone has any idea on what may be causing the problem and if it's fixable please let me know, thank you.


----------



## rubenmoniz

@verick Thank you very much for all your help and hard work, you were of tremendous help to me, I shall name my first child "verick".
@xchor Thanks for the visual aids and for clarifying the missing pins.

For anyone reading this I would add that for me the ODC and LVDS pins were 6th and 7th as per the LG datasheet.
@twokdavey I got mine from taobao through yoybuy, took a long time and one taobao seller sent me a lm300 board by mistake.


----------



## verick

Did you successfully make cables, did they work? I am selling my pcbs/cables, so I want to make sure they aren't needed anymore!


----------



## rubenmoniz

@verick oh yes, they are working perfectly, thanks again. Now i just need a better gpu to push higher frames.


----------



## xchor

I have not gotten around to making them yet but I'm very glad to hear it working and thx again for all the help


----------



## Sunreeper

So nobody has any advice for my issue that I mentioned a few posts ago?


----------



## rubenmoniz

@Sunreeper with the little experience i have i can only tell you to check if its not the backlight that is broken and the lcd is still working, since its so dark without backlight the monitor might look off but is indeed on, grab a flashlight and try to illuminate the inside of the screen and check for a faint image.

I once replaced all the electrolytic caps on a monitor and that brought it back to life, more than that i cant really help.


----------



## ChieftainAkela

Hey I just got two of these on facebook last night. One lights up with its backlight and the PC recognizes it but it doesn't output video (and apparently worked a week ago.) Any ideas of what should look for when opening it up to see if I can fix it?


----------



## kenshao

Hey guys, I was wondering if I got get any help in this.
I have the Yamakasi Catleap q270, this model never overclock past 65hz and I never really wanted to overclock it, so it always stayed default 60hz.
Lately, I have been expering something funny, pretty much when I turn the monitor on, it doesn't display anything, it is black (it is receiving signal properly and windows detects it). After about 5-10 minutes, I start to see some flickering in it, and about 20 minutes later, the flickering becomes the image that's supposed to be displayed by windows. 30-40 minutes later, the image displays properly, so, I'm referring this as my own warmup symptom, as the monitor has to warmup for 30 minutes before being usable.
In the beggining it took only about a couple of minutes, but the time is getting higher and higher.

So, my question is: 
Is this issue related to, the LCD panel? Or one of the boards inside the monitor?

I'm asking this, because I'm trying to figure out, in case the issue is one of the boards, if overclocking would be something to try, or simply replacing my board would solve it.
After reading a lot, I realized that I would have to purchase these two board to overclock it if I wanted:

LM270WQ1 driver board LDK-LE256 / HY-2560M - which I can find in here: 
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52

and 
LM270WQ1-SLA1 driver logic board 6870C-0340A T-CON connect board, which I found in here:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52

Now, if I buy these two boards to overclock it, do I need any new cables? Or are the cables that are already inside my monitor enough?

Final question, if the issue is simply in one of my monitor boards, what would be the board PN that I have to buy to replace it to fix this issue without resorting to the OC upgrade? If the cost difference is too high I guess I'll just stick to what I already have.

Any help is appreciated


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

kenshao said:


> Hey guys, I was wondering if I got get any help in this.
> I have the Yamakasi Catleap q270, this model never overclock past 65hz and I never really wanted to overclock it, so it always stayed default 60hz.
> Lately, I have been expering something funny, pretty much when I turn the monitor on, it doesn't display anything, it is black (it is receiving signal properly and windows detects it). After about 5-10 minutes, I start to see some flickering in it, and about 20 minutes later, the flickering becomes the image that's supposed to be displayed by windows. 30-40 minutes later, the image displays properly, so, I'm referring this as my own warmup symptom, as the monitor has to warmup for 30 minutes before being usable.
> In the beggining it took only about a couple of minutes, but the time is getting higher and higher.
> 
> So, my question is:
> Is this issue related to, the LCD panel? Or one of the boards inside the monitor?
> 
> I'm asking this, because I'm trying to figure out, in case the issue is one of the boards, if overclocking would be something to try, or simply replacing my board would solve it.
> After reading a lot, I realized that I would have to purchase these two board to overclock it if I wanted:
> 
> LM270WQ1 driver board LDK-LE256 / HY-2560M - which I can find in here:
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/328...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52
> 
> and
> LM270WQ1-SLA1 driver logic board 6870C-0340A T-CON connect board, which I found in here:
> https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52
> 
> Now, if I buy these two boards to overclock it, do I need any new cables? Or are the cables that are already inside my monitor enough?
> 
> Final question, if the issue is simply in one of my monitor boards, what would be the board PN that I have to buy to replace it to fix this issue without resorting to the OC upgrade? If the cost difference is too high I guess I'll just stick to what I already have.
> 
> Any help is appreciated


Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.

So, I don't know if what I'm about to say is helpful or not and I surely can't guarantee to what I'm about to tell you but I believe your monitor, if it was not originally an well known overclocking model, then your is most likely NOT the two cable tcon design (like mine wasn't). Is yours using display port or HDMI or is it a DVI? 

Your issue is most likely to be in the main input pcb, which would be the HY-256 board you listed first as it supplies the power to the panel itself. I do not believe the panel itself has any issues. If I was you I would get the boards you found and send a message to the seller that you need the two LVDS cables to go along with it. Also, if you have a single cable board or display port or HDMI it is very likely going to need a different power supply as well. But we still need to see the sticker on the panel itself and the model number of the boards in question. 

Now, if you can take it apart and take close up images I might be able to find a better solution from ebay but I'm not sure about that either until I know more about what you have inside your monitor. There are eBay sellers that have everything you need (except PSU) to do a direct conversion to 60hz Display Port, including the new cables you would need. At least there used to be sellers that did that. I have them bookmarked (saved sellers) at my home PC but I'm not home at the moment.

Let me know exactly what you have, with internal pics and I can do a much better job advising you. Do you have the ability to open up your monitor? Are you good with screw drivers and prying devices apart and more importantly putting them back together? Lol, let me know please and I could help you further.

P.S. By the way, if your here in the States it would probably be better to get these items from ebay, unless you feel really confident in using aliexpress. I mean the tcon is half that cost on ebay, and you can find an entire kit with cables around that cost.

T-CON https://www.ebay.com/itm/6870C-0458A-logic-board-LM270WQ1-SLA1-FULL-TESTED-T-CON/223480750751 (although I wouldn't buy this)

And if you have the SLA1 panel type already, this kit is a cheaper safer route because it already comes with the new LVDS cables etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-D...60-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SL-A1-B2/122939502641

Let me know exactly what you have please


----------



## kenshao

}SkOrPn--' said:


> Almost none of your questions can be answered properly without knowing exactly what is inside the monitor in the first place.
> 
> So, I don't know if what I'm about to say is helpful or not and I surely can't guarantee to what I'm about to tell you but I believe your monitor, if it was not originally an well known overclocking model, then your is most likely NOT the two cable tcon design (like mine wasn't). Is yours using display port or HDMI or is it a DVI?
> 
> Your issue is most likely to be in the main input pcb, which would be the HY-256 board you listed first as it supplies the power to the panel itself. I do not believe the panel itself has any issues. If I was you I would get the boards you found and send a message to the seller that you need the two LVDS cables to go along with it. Also, if you have a single cable board or display port or HDMI it is very likely going to need a different power supply as well. But we still need to see the sticker on the panel itself and the model number of the boards in question.
> 
> Now, if you can take it apart and take close up images I might be able to find a better solution from ebay but I'm not sure about that either until I know more about what you have inside your monitor. There are eBay sellers that have everything you need (except PSU) to do a direct conversion to 60hz Display Port, including the new cables you would need. At least there used to be sellers that did that. I have them bookmarked (saved sellers) at my home PC but I'm not home at the moment.
> 
> Let me know exactly what you have, with internal pics and I can do a much better job advising you. Do you have the ability to open up your monitor? Are you good with screw drivers and prying devices apart and more importantly putting them back together? Lol, let me know please and I could help you further.
> 
> P.S. By the way, if your here in the States it would probably be better to get these items from ebay, unless you feel really confident in using aliexpress. I mean the tcon is half that cost on ebay, and you can find an entire kit with cables around that cost.
> 
> T-CON https://www.ebay.com/itm/6870C-0458A-logic-board-LM270WQ1-SLA1-FULL-TESTED-T-CON/223480750751 (although I wouldn't buy this)
> 
> And if you have the SLA1 panel type already, this kit is a cheaper safer route because it already comes with the new LVDS cables etc. https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-D...60-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SL-A1-B2/122939502641
> 
> Let me know exactly what you have please



Hey, Thanks a lot for the input. Both ebay and aliexpress should be fine. I just didn't go to ebay before because I couldnt find any parts (just copy pasted some huge strings to find nothing).
I just disassembled it and took as many pics as I could.
My model is the DVI-DL one. Since I have to replace at least one board anyway my preference would try to get an overclockable one, unless it gets too expensive. After taking the pics, I realized my panel is SDE3 (I don't if it supports OC even with the right parts unfortunately, if there's this option it would be perfect).

Anyway, I took as many pics as I could and posted here, I saw the kit on your link and even know I have some skills, my preference would be to try replace as few as possible parts (but I don't think that'll be possible, most likely i'll need a full kit + new PSU)

https://imgur.com/a/s8vsEXT

I'm no eletronics expert, but after taking the pictures, my HY-256 looks in really bad shape.

Finally, after some reading and checking the pics, and confirming my panel is SDE3 and this kit could prob fix my issue (although prob having the same button issue that I would have to figure out). If there's no OC option, I like the idea of this kit, (HDMI+DP), unless a new kit or just the HY-256 alone that only has DVI is like 10 bucks. Even with that, the kit might be better for me since the cables inside my monitor also looks horrible.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DVI-D...337704?hash=item23b8073de8:g:2dEAAOSwNXpchj2j

I didn't look a whole lot more, but do you know if there's an OC kit for my panel that also supports HDMI and DP? That would be really sweet.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Well that was easy, all I needed was the LG sticker info, and with that you have the LM270WQ1-SDE3 setup. So just get a conversion kit for that. You will or will not need a new PSU because to be frank I have no clue what power your SDE3 requires. But this Kit requires a 12V 4A psu. The seller will, should have a link to the proper PSU as well if yours doesn't work. Again these kits are super simple dumbed down boards, so the GPU will do all the driving of the panel. READ the below listing very carefully please. I found this listing simply by typing "LM270WQ1-SDE3 controller driver kit" and I can not vouch for the seller, although they have good seller ratings, I would trust them myself at 99.5%.

Oh and these kits probably will not be drop in kits, in other words you may need double sided tape just to get them to fit, or like me may need to have the button PCB just hanging out on your desk, lol. But hey you get your working IPS 1440p monitor back for a much better cost over a new unit.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DP-DV...r-2560-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SDE3/123686129209


----------



## kenshao

}SkOrPn--' said:


> Well that was easy, all I needed was the LG sticker info, and with that you have the LM270WQ1-SDE3 setup. So just get a conversion kit for that. You will or will not need a new PSU because to be frank I have no clue what power your SDE3 requires. But this Kit requires a 12V 4A psu. The seller will, should have a link to the proper PSU as well if yours doesn't work. Again these kits are super simple dumbed down boards, so the GPU will do all the driving of the panel. READ the below listing very carefully please. I found this listing simply by typing "LM270WQ1-SDE3 controller driver kit" and I can not vouch for the seller, although they have good seller ratings, I would trust them myself at 99.5%.
> 
> Oh and these kits probably will not be drop in kits, in other words you may need double sided tape just to get them to fit, or like me may need to have the button PCB just hanging out on your desk, lol. But hey you get your working IPS 1440p monitor back for a much better cost over a new unit.
> 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-DP-DV...r-2560-1440-2K-LCD-LM270WQ1-SDE3/123686129209



After reassembling the monitor I got scared to death. I did a quick test and got input, then proceeded to fully close it. When I plugged, I was having the same warmup issue, but it took almost an hour to get it back. I really thought I had damaged something in the process 
I'll get the kit on the link you showed. About the PSU i'll have to get a new one. The one that came with the monitor has that strange 4 pin setup, it's 24v 5a currently, so I'll just get a standard 12v 5a for the new board. Hopefully I'll be able to fit the PCB inside my case (maybe I can cut the bezel a little bit if needed to accommodate the PCB inside.

Thanks a lot for the help!


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

kenshao said:


> After reassembling the monitor I got scared to death. I did a quick test and got input, then proceeded to fully close it. When I plugged, I was having the same warmup issue, but it took almost an hour to get it back. I really thought I had damaged something in the process
> I'll get the kit on the link you showed. About the PSU i'll have to get a new one. The one that came with the monitor has that strange 4 pin setup, it's 24v 5a currently, so I'll just get a standard 12v 5a for the new board. Hopefully I'll be able to fit the PCB inside my case (maybe I can cut the bezel a little bit if needed to accommodate the PCB inside.
> 
> Thanks a lot for the help!


Wait, on second thought first try this. Write down the main PCB # from the board that has the power going to it and the output ports. Yours looks like it is similar to mine. So before buying that kit see if you cant use the numbers (model#?) from the board itself. Maybe, just maybe you can find that board alone for even cheaper? Unfortunately I cant see the numbers on your pics so I can't do the searching for you.

Oh and on the PSU, what I did was I found the main + power in on the board, and then the - and just soldered on my own connector. Yeah mine also needed a new PSU sadly. 5A would be perfect as that way the PSU is never over working and thus will last longer than the actual display itself.

By the way, my panel was the LM270WQ1-SDDB and I turned it into the SLA1 which is the overclocking model. I kept all the original parts just in case I ever need them, and I plan to eventually buy one of these kits with DisplayPort because we all know DVI wont be around much longer, lol.


----------



## kenshao

This would be the main PCB that has power connected to it. Looks like it's really old (DVI only). hy-2560m_dp_m rev.03
I did some googling and pretty much found outdated links without any stock and this (which doesn't look like will fit): https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...185646?hash=item1ccf7d642e:g:BGYAAOSwZntcuSUn

The kit is sounding like a really nice upgrade now that I think about it, since I won't have to rely in DVI-DL in the future (the adapter to hdmi is probably more expensive than the difference the full kit x board is), and I've been holding on my GPU upgrade just because of that, because most of the newer higher end GPUs do not have DVI anymore


----------



## kenshao

}SkOrPn--' said:


> Wait, on second thought first try this. Write down the main PCB # from the board that has the power going to it and the output ports. Yours looks like it is similar to mine. So before buying that kit see if you cant use the numbers (model#?) from the board itself. Maybe, just maybe you can find that board alone for even cheaper? Unfortunately I cant see the numbers on your pics so I can't do the searching for you.
> 
> Oh and on the PSU, what I did was I found the main + power in on the board, and then the - and just soldered on my own connector. Yeah mine also needed a new PSU sadly. 5A would be perfect as that way the PSU is never over working and thus will last longer than the actual display itself.
> 
> By the way, my panel was the LM270WQ1-SDDB and I turned it into the SLA1 which is the overclocking model. I kept all the original parts just in case I ever need them, and I plan to eventually buy one of these kits with DisplayPort because we all know DVI wont be around much longer, lol.


What does the conversion of the panel to SLA1 involves? Just replacing the TCON?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Damn, I keep needing to reply. Well I figured out you have the same PCB as mine originally had I think, or so it looks like it "HY-2560M_DP_M" Rev 3

I would just try and find that board because it seems to me that it is probably the issue, or maybe even the PSU I just don't know? If it still does it after all this then you have narrowed it down to the T-CON I would say. Again, I just do not know what could cause this symptom. My other monitor (Dell) just went dark one day and it was a simple replacement of capacitors, 29 of them to be exact, lol.

Oh and I just found this, which is the overclocking setup. This requires you to replace the T-CON, but that other kits uses the T-CON you have now.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

kenshao said:


> What does the conversion of the panel to SLA1 involves? Just replacing the TCON?


No, it requires the proper TCON and proper two cable LVDS cables. The board is also different. There is eDP and LVDS signals. I do not know the difference but I do know that the SLA1 has no hard limit written into the chip, so it lets your GPU just raise the freq to 81 Hz natively, and much farther if you do a little work with the drivers (I can show you that later).

IMO, if you do not care about overclocking, I would just get the full kit converting it to DisplayPort because like you said all the new GPU just wont have DVI, especially in the future. DP should last us a much longer time, like decades maybe, or lets hope so.


----------



## kenshao

}SkOrPn--' said:


> No, it requires the proper TCON and proper two cable LVDS cables. The board is also different. There is eDP and LVDS signals. I do not know the difference but I do know that the SLA1 has no hard limit written into the chip, so it lets your GPU just raise the freq to 81 Hz natively, and much farther if you do a little work with the drivers (I can show you that later).


That's kind of what I meant, replacing the TCON with this SLA1 TCON that has 2 cables out to the main PCB. (just like in this kit you linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646)

So, with this $50, I'm getting the TCON + PCB + 2 cables to interconnect them + backlight panel. That looks like the entire setup that can fix my issue + give me overclock capabilities at the same time. This kit even has the same connector to the power button so I wouldn't need to replace it. And if I want to upgrade the main PCB in the future to support DP+HDMI I'll just have to get an SLA1 kit (I just don't know if I'll be able to still OC or not since now we're talking about DP or HDMI).
Am I correct in this? Because if I am, this kit looks like a godsend , I can even keep my PSU (but now that you mentioned, I'll probably try to test my Overlord PSU in this monitor to make sure it's not the PSU)

About the OC, usually i'd prefer the board with DP, but the OC kit is actually cheaper than the DP kit (and yes, I really care about it, just budget was my concern as I though i'd need to spend $150+ to have it considering the prices I saw in aliexpress, but this kit's total is $50), but when the OC kit is cheaper then yes, I'm likely trying to get it. I also have an Overlord, so I already know how to do it if needed (and I'm really used to the 100hz I can get from it, although I'd be really happy with 96hz from this kit). Luckily for my, I have a 780ti which has an unlocked driver and I can already create custom res if I need.

Finally, just finished testing my Overlord PSU on the Catleap, and the issue persists, it's not the PSU.


----------



## boot318

kenshao said:


> This would be the main PCB that has power connected to it. Looks like it's really old (DVI only). hy-2560m_dp_m rev.03
> I did some googling and pretty much found outdated links without any stock and this (which doesn't look like will fit): https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...185646?hash=item1ccf7d642e:g:BGYAAOSwZntcuSUn
> 
> The kit is sounding like a really nice upgrade now that I think about it, since I won't have to rely in DVI-DL in the future (the adapter to hdmi is probably more expensive than the difference the full kit x board is), and I've been holding on my GPU upgrade just because of that, because most of the newer higher end GPUs do not have DVI anymore


That is a dang good price that kit! Buy that and get the LM270WQ1 panel for around $50 for a killer 1440p 96(ish)hz gaming experience. I wished I didn't break two of those LM270WQ1 panels.


----------



## kenshao

boot318 said:


> That is a dang good price that kit! Buy that and get the LM270WQ1 panel for around $50 for a killer 1440p 96(ish)hz gaming experience. I wished I didn't break two of those LM270WQ1 panels.


Guess your message just made me go ahead and buy this kit. Looks like the best option for me now (and MUCH cheaper than usual).


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

kenshao said:


> That's kind of what I meant, replacing the TCON with this SLA1 TCON that has 2 cables out to the main PCB. (just like in this kit you linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646)
> 
> So, with this $50, I'm getting the TCON + PCB + 2 cables to interconnect them + backlight panel. That looks like the entire setup that can fix my issue + give me overclock capabilities at the same time. This kit even has the same connector to the power button so I wouldn't need to replace it. And if I want to upgrade the main PCB in the future to support DP+HDMI I'll just have to get an SLA1 kit (I just don't know if I'll be able to still OC or not since now we're talking about DP or HDMI).
> Am I correct in this? Because if I am, this kit looks like a godsend , I can even keep my PSU (but now that you mentioned, I'll probably try to test my Overlord PSU in this monitor to make sure it's not the PSU)
> 
> About the OC, usually i'd prefer the board with DP, but the OC kit is actually cheaper than the DP kit (and yes, I really care about it, just budget was my concern as I though i'd need to spend $150+ to have it considering the prices I saw in aliexpress, but this kit's total is $50), but when the OC kit is cheaper then yes, I'm likely trying to get it. I also have an Overlord, so I already know how to do it if needed (and I'm really used to the 100hz I can get from it, although I'd be really happy with 96hz from this kit). Luckily for my, I have a 780ti which has an unlocked driver and I can already create custom res if I need.
> 
> Finally, just finished testing my Overlord PSU on the Catleap, and the issue persists, it's not the PSU.


Yeah, that kit does look like the ideal setup for now until DP is absolutely required. My only concern was the power button cables was not in the images above, but like you said it looks like the same power button cable as the one you already have. Lets hope it is wired the same too lol. The OC is not guaranteed usually, but mine with the same parts does 60Hz by default, and can be set to 81Hz (image below) just by using the windows Advanced Display Settings drop down. It lets me select 81 Hz as the highest Freq. However, if you go to CRU's home page and follow the instructions you will get a fully unlocked Display. I have gotten 110Hz from my previous GPU (5800GTX), but I have not tried going higher with my Radeon R9 290. I have seen some people get in upwards of 120Hz or slightly more. But remember this display tech is limited to the pixels natural fill rates, so I suspect anything higher than 100 might have ghosting or what ever.

I just hope it all works for you and you don't have a hard time installing it. Please keep us informed as I want to buy one of these kits for my display as well just as a backup. I have the original TCON still and the SLA1 TCON, which means I already have the ability, with a new DP kit of course, to get myself DP, but for now I will stick to DVI. I just know someday our next GPU isn't going to have a DVI port, lol.


----------



## kenshao

It'll probably take about two weeks for the kit to arrive (i'm in Colombia btw), but i'll report what happens in here.
Last time I checked the newer GPUs, the Geforce Super 2060 still comes with 1x DVI, but doesn't look like the super 2070 has it (probably with some 3rd party model it can still do). My first long term plan about this is to simply use Apple's active DVI-DL to HDMI adapter. So far it's working just right on my wife's Overlord to connect to an imac (however I never tried to OC it, gotta test soon prob after the kit arrives). It's a bit expensive but it works. The DP kit will be my second option now in the future.
Also, after checking a bit more, there are kits for the SLA1 with vga/dvi/hdmi, that can also be another option if we want to keep the SLA1 TCON in the future and upgrade to HDMI (didn't find DP so far), and still try to keep OC capabilities, I would prob try one of those way in the future instead of reverting to the SDE3 for DP when HDMI would do the same and will stay around pretty much forever.
Now I'll just cross my fingers for the kit to arrive without any damage and upgrade it .

Cheers


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

kenshao said:


> It'll probably take about two weeks for the kit to arrive (i'm in Colombia btw), but i'll report what happens in here.
> Last time I checked the newer GPUs, the Geforce Super 2060 still comes with 1x DVI, but doesn't look like the super 2070 has it (probably with some 3rd party model it can still do). My first long term plan about this is to simply use Apple's active DVI-DL to HDMI adapter. So far it's working just right on my wife's Overlord to connect to an imac (however I never tried to OC it, gotta test soon prob after the kit arrives). It's a bit expensive but it works. The DP kit will be my second option now in the future.
> Also, after checking a bit more, there are kits for the SLA1 with vga/dvi/hdmi, that can also be another option if we want to keep the SLA1 TCON in the future and upgrade to HDMI (didn't find DP so far), and still try to keep OC capabilities, I would prob try one of those way in the future instead of reverting to the SDE3 for DP when HDMI would do the same and will stay around pretty much forever.
> Now I'll just cross my fingers for the kit to arrive without any damage and upgrade it .
> 
> Cheers


Well I wish you all the luck in the world buddy. Keep us informed and here's to hoping you get the kit in good working condition. If you need any help to figure out how to power it up, wiring etc let me know as I have the wiring diagram for that 4-pin connector and I have proper part numbers for the power supply units if needed. 

Good luck man


----------



## AJCxZ0

My retired Q270, purchased 23 Jun 2012 from green-sum on eBay and shipped from Korea, needs a new home. The wobbling device was carefully removed by me and it has been VESA mounted for most of its operational life. I still have the original box and a nice long (12', I think) DL-DVI-D cable.
Free for pickup in the Washington DC Metro area, or you can send me a shipping label. PM me if interested and I'll follow up here when picked up or shipped (so there'll be no need to ask if it's available).


----------



## vhxonline

After 7 years, I think mine is finally on its way out. If I look closely there are some faint lines going down the panel. (See attached picture, I enhanced the contrast a little to make the lines easier to see)

Also, like once a week, I will turn on the monitor and get multicolored horizontal lines through the screen, they will gradually clear up until it's back to normal. One of these days it probably won't clear up. 

Below is a screenshot, I enhanced the contrast a little to show the lines a little easier. This Yamasaki lasted a lot longer than I expected, pretty impressed.


----------



## n19htmare

}SkOrPn--' said:


> kenshao said:
> 
> 
> 
> That's kind of what I meant, replacing the TCON with this SLA1 TCON that has 2 cables out to the main PCB. (just like in this kit you linked https://www.ebay.com/itm/PCB-HY-256...70WQ1-SLA1-REPLACEMENT-BOARD-KIT/123740185646)
> 
> So, with this $50, I'm getting the TCON + PCB + 2 cables to interconnect them + backlight panel. That looks like the entire setup that can fix my issue + give me overclock capabilities at the same time. This kit even has the same connector to the power button so I wouldn't need to replace it. And if I want to upgrade the main PCB in the future to support DP+HDMI I'll just have to get an SLA1 kit (I just don't know if I'll be able to still OC or not since now we're talking about DP or HDMI).
> Am I correct in this? Because if I am, this kit looks like a godsend /forum/images/smilies/wink.gif, I can even keep my PSU (but now that you mentioned, I'll probably try to test my Overlord PSU in this monitor to make sure it's not the PSU)
> 
> About the OC, usually i'd prefer the board with DP, but the OC kit is actually cheaper than the DP kit (and yes, I really care about it, just budget was my concern as I though i'd need to spend $150+ to have it considering the prices I saw in aliexpress, but this kit's total is $50), but when the OC kit is cheaper then yes, I'm likely trying to get it. I also have an Overlord, so I already know how to do it if needed (and I'm really used to the 100hz I can get from it, although I'd be really happy with 96hz from this kit). Luckily for my, I have a 780ti which has an unlocked driver and I can already create custom res if I need.
> 
> Finally, just finished testing my Overlord PSU on the Catleap, and the issue persists, it's not the PSU.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, that kit does look like the ideal setup for now until DP is absolutely required. My only concern was the power button cables was not in the images above, but like you said it looks like the same power button cable as the one you already have. Lets hope it is wired the same too lol. The OC is not guaranteed usually, but mine with the same parts does 60Hz by default, and can be set to 81Hz (image below) just by using the windows Advanced Display Settings drop down. It lets me select 81 Hz as the highest Freq. However, if you go to CRU's home page and follow the instructions you will get a fully unlocked Display. I have gotten 110Hz from my previous GPU (5800GTX), but I have not tried going higher with my Radeon R9 290. I have seen some people get in upwards of 120Hz or slightly more. But remember this display tech is limited to the pixels natural fill rates, so I suspect anything higher than 100 might have ghosting or what ever.
> 
> I just hope it all works for you and you don't have a hard time installing it. Please keep us informed as I want to buy one of these kits for my display as well just as a backup. I have the original TCON still and the SLA1 TCON, which means I already have the ability, with a new DP kit of course, to get myself DP, but for now I will stick to DVI. I just know someday our next GPU isn't going to have a DVI port, lol.
Click to expand...

So speaking of needing Display Port.....lol. 

I just got a 1080ti that does not have a DVI port (blower style). So one option is to buy an active adapter around $80 or 2nd option to just convert my monitor to avoid future issues. 

It's a Shimian QH270 lite that has been running perfectly and I love it and would like to keep it. 

The panel is a lm270wq1-sd b3.

The kit I was looking at is 

https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.aliexpress.com/item/32885756831.html

My questions:

Will that work for Display Port conversion or is anything else needed?

Is there any option to have the Display port and be able to overclock with the above mentioned kit? Or any other kit?

Sorry I only know the panel model, I'm not sure what existing boards are. The controller is a DVI only and I'm adding the TCon is whatever a B3 comes with. 

Thanks in advance for anyones help


----------



## kenshao

}SkOrPn--' said:


> Well I wish you all the luck in the world buddy. Keep us informed and here's to hoping you get the kit in good working condition. If you need any help to figure out how to power it up, wiring etc let me know as I have the wiring diagram for that 4-pin connector and I have proper part numbers for the power supply units if needed.
> 
> Good luck man


Hey again!
I arrive with good news!
The past week was horrible, some times the monitor wouldn't even work after 2-3h warming up. After I was able to get it running, I had to disable power saving and let it run 24x7 for it to work haha.

Anyway, the parts just arrived. I replaced the TCON and main board. I got really lucky, as the new main board was just the rev 4 (my old card was rev 3), so all the cables other than the cable that goes to the TCON were exactly the same. I didn't have to make any crazy modifications, my original power on/off and brightness/contrast buttons are working perfectly, the PSU connector is also the same.
After replacing everything, the monitor worked perfectly on the first attempt! I've been using it for a couple of hours already and so far so good, no more problems.
I was able to overclock it easily and I'm reaching 110hz (anything over that I get some artifacts on screen, just like my other Overlord).
I only left the metal plate that covers the main board outside the monitor this time. I was too excited to turn it on and it was too hard to fit the new cabling under it without some cutting involved, so I left it out (hopefully that won't come back to bite me in the future).
Guess the monitor will stay in the family until China stops selling these parts


----------



## kenshao

n19htmare said:


> So speaking of needing Display Port.....lol.
> 
> I just got a 1080ti that does not have a DVI port (blower style). So one option is to buy an active adapter around $80 or 2nd option to just convert my monitor to avoid future issues.
> 
> It's a Shimian QH270 lite that has been running perfectly and I love it and would like to keep it.
> 
> The panel is a lm270wq1-sd b3.
> 
> The kit I was looking at is
> 
> https://www.google.com/amp/s/m.aliexpress.com/item/32885756831.html
> 
> My questions:
> 
> Will that work for Display Port conversion or is anything else needed?
> 
> Is there any option to have the Display port and be able to overclock with the above mentioned kit? Or any other kit?
> 
> Sorry I only know the panel model, I'm not sure what existing boards are. The controller is a DVI only and I'm adding the TCon is whatever a B3 comes with.
> 
> Thanks in advance for anyones help


Hello!
For your first question: that kit will work for the DP conversion. However, keep in mind that the PSU and buttons from your original monitor may not be compatible. The original PSU is 24v, the kit you've linked is 12V, you'll need a new 12V 5A PSU if you buy that kit.
That kit has a board with a new power button included, but it might not fit your monitor's original bezel and you might have to resort to some creativity (like cutting the bezel or having the board floating around outside your monitor). 
That kit won't be able to overclock. If you need to overclock, having a SLA1 TCON is mandatory, so you'll need to replace your TCON with an SLA1 one, and get a controller board kit to an SLA1 instead of getting your kit.

From what I researched, there's no Displayport kit for the SLA1, only HDMI. In theory, OC would be possible using the HDMI input, but I honestly haven't tested that as my kit is DVI only (other folks in the forum might have this answer).
I just recently purchased one kit for my dying monitor that converted it from SDD3 like yours to SLA1.

This is the kit for the SLA1 with VGA, DVI and HDMI (the only one I could find that's not DVI-DL only).
https://www.ebay.com/itm/HDMI-VGA-D...502641?hash=item1c9fc3f031:g:megAAOSwi0RXzpcd

Please be careful, as if you want this kit for the OC, you'll need to purchase an SLA1 TCON too, but not a new PSU this time since this kit is for 24V psus (just like the originals).

SLA1 TCON
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...chweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52


----------



## Omnomnom9

Hi,

I have 2 Crossover 27 LED, one with the Overlord PCB, can get it to 114 Hz on win10 but not with Linux (still at 60 Hz), anyone running these boards on Linux?. Would the kits listed in the previous posts also work with a crossover, how much can they be overclocked?

Thanks


----------



## kenshao

Omnomnom9 said:


> Hi,
> 
> I have 2 Crossover 27 LED, one with the Overlord PCB, can get it to 114 Hz on win10 but not with Linux (still at 60 Hz), anyone running these boards on Linux?. Would the kits listed in the previous posts also work with a crossover, how much can they be overclocked?
> 
> Thanks


They should work with the Crossover, but it would be good to know which panel you have so you know exactly what parts you'll need.
I got 120hz with artifacts, and 110hz stable with no artifacts using one of those kits. I think it's my cable that's still the stock one and is not a very high quality cable.
Not running linux so can't comment on that.


----------



## Omnomnom9

Panel: LM270WQ1 (SD)(B1)


----------



## Omnomnom9

Which of the boards would be the right one for OC?


----------



## Anthos

The answer might already be located somewhere in this thread but it might be difficult to locate in so many pages.
I have the original catleap and an ancient GPU which I ll probably change soon. I noticed that both camps now started to release their GPUs without any DVI outputs. Has anyone managed to make a HDMI/DP - > DVI-D connection work? Possibly by reducing the herz a little? (I don't have one that overclocks so 60Hz max, although to be honest I always see mine listed in windows at 59)

Edit:I mean obviously aside from using an active adaptor.


----------



## kenshao

Omnomnom9 said:


> Which of the boards would be the right one for OC?


SL A1
Check my previous post that I have a basic explanation in what you need to do to convert your board to the SL A1


----------



## JollyGreenJoint

My tempest died a few weeks ago screen just went black in middle of use. The boards looked good, and i spark tested the power supply (no multi-meter yet). Replaced the original panel (not lg its a "huige") with a used lg panel, still black no power light. Replaced the main board, same thing. New lvds cables are on their way and a new/used sla1 tcon is coming too. I have a sneaking suspicion its the power supply even though it sparked when tested. I'm looking at getting this one: https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-E...ZGZ1W6HE9B8&psc=1&refRID=7F78QZY8PZGZ1W6HE9B8 Im pretty sure the pinout is compatible from the reviews. Thoughts .. on the problem ? on the power brick ? .. If i get this working i'll probably have an extra t-con and main pcb and knock off lg panel for sale


----------



## JollyGreenJoint

Update: WORKS! Was the power brick. I now have a spare t-con and logic board


----------



## Buteiko

Hello guys,

I am currently trying to connect my 27 inch 2560x1440 Yamakasi, which I bought back in 2011 to my Clevo gaming laptop with a gtx1080 inside.

The laptop has USB 3.0, Mini Displayport and HDMI outputs.

From what I've gathered so far I need something like this:

https://www.startech.com/AV/display...-Adapters/mdp-dual-link-dvi-adapter~MDP2DVID2

this is quite pricey and I'm wondering if in 2019 there are cheaper alternatives, or do I need to bite the bullet and get something like the above?

Will perhaps this:
https://www.visiontek.com/displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-d-active-adapter-m-f.html

together with this:

https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution-Converter/dp/B00YOVKWQS

Work just as well and save me a few dollars?


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Buteiko said:


> Hello guys,
> 
> I am currently trying to connect my 27 inch 2560x1440 Yamakasi, which I bought back in 2011 to my Clevo gaming laptop with a gtx1080 inside.
> 
> The laptop has USB 3.0, Mini Displayport and HDMI outputs.
> 
> From what I've gathered so far I need something like this:
> 
> https://www.startech.com/AV/display...-Adapters/mdp-dual-link-dvi-adapter~MDP2DVID2
> 
> this is quite pricey and I'm wondering if in 2019 there are cheaper alternatives, or do I need to bite the bullet and get something like the above?
> 
> Will perhaps this:
> https://www.visiontek.com/displayport-to-dual-link-dvi-d-active-adapter-m-f.html
> 
> together with this:
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-DisplayPort-Adapter-Resolution-Converter/dp/B00YOVKWQS
> 
> Work just as well and save me a few dollars?


Yeah those last options look good. But why does it need to be an active display cable? Does your laptop have a mini dp female out? If so they have cables with male mini DP to dual link dvi, unless these are for DVI devices to DP monitors. Not sure on that. With a 1080 inside your laptop should have no issues driving a 2560x1440 display.


----------



## Anthos

}SkOrPn--' said:


> Yeah those last options look good. But why does it need to be an active display cable? Does your laptop have a mini dp female out? If so they have cables with male mini DP to dual link dvi, unless these are for DVI devices to DP monitors. Not sure on that. With a 1080 inside your laptop should have no issues driving a 2560x1440 display.



If it is not active then the signal will be single link


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

Anthos said:


> If it is not active then the signal will be single link


Thanks on that confirmation. I thought active adapters were for displays with higher than 2560x1600 resolution, or for non DP++ ports. I forgot about the dual link requirement, doh. If his laptop is DP++ it already has the conversion chips built in, if not he will need an active adapter. I think this is correct info, lol....


----------



## Catrik

So...anyone still got a picture out with any DP/HDMI -> DVI adapter?

I tried with this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32407972546.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.9.1e8bad7de6GNNq
However I just now noticed it says it supports only up to 1080, so that might be the issue why it's not working. Already have a new monitor ordered but it would be nice to keep this as a secondary, even if only 60Hz.


----------



## kenshao

Quick report. I just upgraded my GPU to a RTX2070S, and had to use an adapter for that.

I have an SL A1 which would get me 120HZ before (110Hz stable with no artifacts).
Using an Apple DVI > Minidp and a minidp > DP adapter, I was able to get to 75Hz stable.

I tried purchasing one of the advised adapters that would go straight to DP, but they failed me and got returned.
At least it still works with some kind of OC.


----------



## }SkOrPn--'

kenshao said:


> Quick report. I just upgraded my GPU to a RTX2070S, and had to use an adapter for that.
> 
> I have an SL A1 which would get me 120HZ before (110Hz stable with no artifacts).
> Using an Apple DVI > Minidp and a minidp > DP adapter, I was able to get to 75Hz stable.
> 
> I tried purchasing one of the advised adapters that would go straight to DP, but they failed me and got returned.
> At least it still works with some kind of OC.


Good to know, thanks for the report. :thumb:


----------



## GhettoFreshness

Catrik said:


> So...anyone still got a picture out with any DP/HDMI -> DVI adapter?
> 
> I tried with this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32407972546.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.9.1e8bad7de6GNNq
> However I just now noticed it says it supports only up to 1080, so that might be the issue why it's not working. Already have a new monitor ordered but it would be nice to keep this as a secondary, even if only 60Hz.


So i have a similar issue as i recently upgraded to a 2080S, Im only using as a second screen so i also dont care about getting more than 60hz.

I have this adaptor working at 1080 (it also offers 1900x1200): https://www.alogic.co/us/alogic-15cm-displayport-to-dvi-adapter-male-to-female-premium-series.html... I was able to set a custom resolution of 2560x1440 however the image isn't as crisp anymore and it seems a bit blurry compared to the sharpness i had on this screen with DVI on my old 1070.

So i found another version from the same company (https://www.alogic.co/alogic-20cm-d...er-male-to-female-with-4k-support-active.html) which offers 4K Ultra HD 3840 X 2160 with DisplayPort Ver 1.2 devices & 2560 X 1440 with DisplayPort 1.1 devices. However when i hook it up all i get is the screen flicking on and off, see here for a short video: https://imgur.com/gallery/5LL0Z1o

The screen is showing up in windows display settings but just keeps flicking on and off like that... anyone have any thoughts on troubleshooting i can do to resolve this? Ive tried Alogic support but havent had a response as yet.


----------



## SheetLord

Guys, I got this one with S/N Q270LED2F4LPxxxx
Can this overclock? Or just the 2Bs? This one have all Korean on it doesn't look like anything in this thread.
Also can MacBook Pro do overclocking? Mine have a AMD 5300M should be doable right?


----------



## pngo

Hello.


First time poster here.
Happy Catleap SE owner (the very basic one, dvi-d only model) since 2012ish. The screen has been working well so far. Lately I started to get the blinking green led when turning it on with no picture detected. Sometimes it would work fine, sometimes it would display a black screen at resolution change. Lately it would not display anything at a higher resolution than the bios, and would stay black at the login screen (with no backlight).


Power brick showed 24.4 volts on both +V pins.



So i decided to open it gently. Unplugged the cables carefully (especially the panel ribbon), took a look at the unique board inside and could not see anything wrong, no bulged cap, no burning mark nothing. I reassembled it, plugged back everything and it is working perfectly again.


Now, is there a recommended DisplayPort to dvi-d adapter out there that works well with it?
Or is it worth buying a new kit with a DP input board for it?


I still enjoy the screen, low input lag, better image quality than most of the low end current gen screens I have seen so I would not mind upgrading it. For the moment, DVI-D is still ok, my rx580 has the port for it so it is not an imperative at the moment.


When I opened it, I looked at the panel numner and it is LM270WQ1 (SD) (E3).



Thanks.


Olivier.


----------



## pngo

Ended up buying a complete kit from ebay with DP input and tcon . The original input board was no longer working and was giving me the blinking green light of death again. Screen is back to normal since the ips panel is 100% ok.... Still enjoying the screen and now it has updated DP input.


----------



## beniroc

Do you have a link to this kit?


----------



## pngo

This is the one i got:


https://www.ebay.fr/itm/DP-Board-T-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649


You need to check the panel serial number first so that the seller sneds you the correct KIT. I checked with him before buying and what I received indeed works very well. Installation was pretty easy. Unplug everything from the panel including the TCON, replace the tcon with the one from the kit, leave the tcon shield out of the way, then sticky tape the little replacement boards in the middle of the panel so that it does not prevent putting the back of the screen in place. Remove any remaining metal standoff from the case back that were supporting the original input board, to prevent shorts with the new stuff. Hook up the power and a dp cable directly into the new board and route them through the case back through the dvi hole (use pliers to enlarge if a bit too small for the DP plug to go through the dvi hole), then when everything is plugged in, close everything and use a zip tie to secure the cables to the screen stand so that you dont accidentally pull on them. Leave it like that with the power brick and dp cable connected inside and use it as is (once the screen is closed, the cables are now unreachable so make sure your cables are long enough to reach the mains plug and the computer DP port but it works well like this). Plug the other end of the DP cable to the computer and other end of the power brick to main.


You will also need a 19v 5AMP power brick with center positive jack. They are much more common to find than the original 24v one with the strange 4pin plug wiring.




The keypad for the controls are touch buttons, and allow turning on/off and brightness control. The keypad/control board can stay outside of the case and sticky taped to the back of the screen. The kit is 70e and some people may question the price compared to buying a new screen, but i personally think this nice LG ips panel is worth it because it is still much better than any cheapo screen that you can buy for 100ish euros/usd new.


I have been gaming on it, input lag still feels very good, and the screen still supports resolutions up to 1440p with no issue. Lower resolutions are also working fine.


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## alessandro.menchini

hi 
I have problem with a YAMAKASI Precision 2703: when i connect to my pc it works only at 640x480... (no other resolutions available in windows10 for this monitor). So i have used CRU.exe for change the EDID ( i was thinking the edid is the problem). After this operation the monitor is always black ... What can i do? (Restore EDID ? Search for drivers? ) . Thanks in advance
Alessandro.


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## AJCxZ0

My *Q270LED SE* has not been in use for some time now despite working perfectly when I last used it. The stand has been removed for VESA mounting. I have the original box in which it was shipped from Korea, a long (10' IIRC) dual link DVI-D cable and an extension cable. I also have the GeForce GTX 460 with two DL-DVI-D outputs.

These should go together to a new home but I don't want to maintain any For Sale ads for them, so if you have or know of such a home, then please let me know. While I don't mind making a few dollars, I'm only looking to cover my costs.


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## NateZ28

Hey guys, been a while! So I've got one of the old overclockable Catleaps that runs at 110 Hz through DVI. Is there any way to use it overclocked with newer graphics cards that don't have DVI? Not sure if an adapter will work.


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## Hokies83

I have a LM270WQ1 SD B3 panel with C2 parts.
This monitor quit working 6 years ago been in the closet all these years.
Got power green light blinks but didn't wake up.
Powered it back on today. Same as 6 years ago.

Looking for cheapest replacement board to see if it works also broke the pin coming from monitor to board.
It was old and kinda just feel apart so will need a new one as well.
If I can make it hdmi for the same cost I'd like to go that route if possible,
Thanks beforehand to anyone who offers help.


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## Steph2Bordeaux

Hi,

I have a Yamakazi Q270Se and the new MacBook Pro M1 14". How can I connect my screen to my computer ? I tried with the Apple Multiport A2119 > HDMI > DVI Dual Link but it doesn't work. Do you have any ideas ?


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## AJCxZ0

After retiring the FHD monitor I used for its VGA input, I had space for a replacement. My video card has a spare DP port, but also a DL-DVI-D port, so out of retirement [Don't wait for the too easy pun about leaping] came the Q270.
While putting it on the shelf I dropped it! The fall was not far and the floor is rubber mat, but it was enough to pop out the bezel and eject a screw. The bezel clicked and screwed back in place and the monitor is working fine.








Right: Acer ET430K (UHD)
Left: LG Flatron W2353V (FHD, required by AVR for 7.1 audio), Monoprice Premium Series IPS (WQHD), Yamakasi Catleap Q270 (WQHD).


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