# [Official] Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club



## Rakhasa

Awesome- been looking to pick one of these up.. gonna read up the reviews


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## Sethy666

I wish you good luck and happy trails on the launch of this new club


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## Kokin

Strange how all reviews I see never include the H50 in their tests.


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kokin;13119660*
> Strange how all reviews I see never include the H50 in their tests.


I'm pretty sure all the reviews I included have the H50/H60/H70 as well as some Coolit units included in the testing.


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## VettePilot

I have the 620 on my new build and so far I have not seen temps get over 59 or 60. Usually idles around 30-32 but I have one fan in my Raven 2 that is not working very well and I have not messed with the fan settings at all since I dont really understand the Asus Suite 2 interface that well yet.


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Topgearfan;13127812*
> I have the 620 on my new build and so far I have not seen temps get over 59 or 60. Usually idles around 30-32 but I have one fan in my Raven 2 that is not working very well and I have not messed with the fan settings at all since I dont really understand the Asus Suite 2 interface that well yet.


Try adding yourself to the spreadsheet







I wanna make sure it works lol


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## HOTDOGS

Is the cooling difference worth the price difference? Anybody have one in a CM692?


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## GAMERIG

Congrats! Good luck with this, topic will be hot & competitive against H50/H70 club.


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13129661*
> Is the cooling difference worth the price difference? Anybody have one in a CM692?


The Antec 620 units are $58 in Canada while the Corsair H50 is worth $59. And before you accuse me of using different websites I actually used the cheapest price I could find using shopbot for both products - not including MIR or special discounts. The price difference is negligable, but the Antec has much better performance. Check out the reviews. I'm not sure about prices in the states.


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## Phos

Check out Asetek Stu's sig rig... he lists "Asetek Prototype" under GPU cooling. Sounds like an Omni ALC competitor.

And the old tubes were seriously corrugated like that on the inside? I thought that was just a cover over the tubes.

I guess these guys aren't loosing to air coolers so easily any more.


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## Chuckclc

Im coming!!! Plan on becoming a member in about 6 5 4 3 days. Got it! Frys price matching Antecs website at 69.99!!!


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## fyzka

add me cuz im joining the frakking club ladies and gents

got a 620

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/4126/photo0249g.jpg

i know the image shows 2 antec fans but ive updated them with 2x akasa blue led fans @1450rpm just cba uplaoding the picture


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fyzka;13135228*
> add me cuz im joining the frakking club ladies and gents
> 
> got a 620
> 
> http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/4126/photo0249g.jpg
> 
> i know the image shows 2 antec fans but ive updated them with 2x akasa blue led fans @1450rpm just cba uplaoding the picture


Very nice! and thanks for adding yourself to the list, now I know it works!

Look at that tubing! haha


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## Asetek_Stu

Can I be a member? I sure do have a lot of these things haha


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## manooti

I got the 620 with my new build. i5 sandy bridge, p67a ud3p board.

Temps aren't all they're cracked up to be. some people are getting better temperatures with the 212 cooler.

Also using IC Diamond 7 on this sucker. I'll post a pic..

The installation of this thing was a PITA. The radiator didnt fit on the rear exhaust so I had to place in above my hard drive cage. Then the copper plate itself has circular ridges which make it very very easy to mess up an install. Air pockets are not very cpu friendly.

The best way that I have found to put it on was put on TIM, evenly and carefully place pump/water block/ copper plate and twist a few times to fill in the ridges. IC Diamond 7 is a pain to work with as well because of its viscosity.

After a few days of plying around and reseating these are my temps with an OC of 4.4Ghz @ 1.32v ambient temps 20C


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Asetek_Stu;13138337*
> Can I be a member? I sure do have a lot of these things haha


of course! haha its awesome to have you here, thanks for joining


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## Rowey

Have we got any comparisons between this and the H50?


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roweyi7;13139263*
> Have we got any comparisons between this and the H50?


check out the revews and FAQ on the main page


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## craptakular

How long are the leads for this? I have just bought a micro-atx case, the Lian Li v354B.

I want to mount the unit in the front of the case, but need to know how long the leads are, I should be ok as it's a small case...


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## manooti

Heres a pic. Add me to the list!!









The angle is screwed up because had to find a decent way to place the tubing without them getting in the way with everything else. Mid towers suck


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *craptakular;13139798*
> How long are the leads for this? I have just bought a micro-atx case, the Lian Li v354B.
> 
> I want to mount the unit in the front of the case, but need to know how long the leads are, I should be ok as it's a small case...


you mean the tubing? Not sure exactly, I'm sure you could find that info on the benchmarkrevews review. I remember seeing a ruler....

Manootie, please add yourself to the list







I'll do it if you want but it's better when everyone does it themselves becauase you can add comments that people will be able to read on the OP.


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## jivenjune

I'm in. You can check out my rig and some minor stress tests at the following link: http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/981247-my-rig-incomplete.html#post12979577

I'm using a push/pull config with some stock cooler master fans (waiting for a replacement).


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## Tennobanzai

I'm contemplating on buying the 620 since it has the slim rad that I would need in my itx rig and has the slim pump/heatsink. I just think it's overkill on a undervolted/stock 2600k.


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai;13140140*
> I'm contemplating on buying the 620 since it has the slim rad that I would need in my itx rig and has the slim pump/heatsink. I just think it's overkill on a undervolted/stock 2600k.


Yeah, it is, but god does it look sweet.


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## craptakular

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13140012*
> you mean the tubing? Not sure exactly, I'm sure you could find that info on the benchmarkrevews review. I remember seeing a ruler....
> 
> Manootie, please add yourself to the list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do it if you want but it's better when everyone does it themselves becauase you can add comments that people will be able to read on the OP.


Ta, the review said its 30cm, so should be enough I think. Will confirm that tommorrow.

What fans would be good on these? Think I will go with two...


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## manooti

Quote:


> Manootie, please add yourself to the list
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll do it if you want but it's better when everyone does it themselves becauase you can add comments that people will be able to read on the OP.


Will do. Thanks









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune;13140058*
> I'm in. You can check out my rig and some minor stress tests at the following link: http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/981247-my-rig-incomplete.html#post12979577
> 
> I'm using a push/pull config with some stock cooler master fans (waiting for a replacement).


I need your case. Which one is that and is it on sale?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tennobanzai;13140140*
> I'm contemplating on buying the 620 since it has the slim rad that I would need in my itx rig and has the slim pump/heatsink. I just think it's overkill on a undervolted/stock 2600k.


A better cooler is always well, better! I built my gf an i3 and with the stock cooler temps reach 70 degrees. I'm not too sure how the ambient was, but it was definitely cool. I'd say somewhere between 70-75 but not sure exactly. Plus a good cooler will keep temps low to where the life of the cpu is extended. I dont think anyone will keep their cpu for 10 years though lol. Anyway, its good to have for low temps and if you ever decide to overclock "one day" then there you go! Also quiet too!


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## jivenjune

^
It's a Rosewill Blackhawk.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147107&cm_re=blackhawk-_-11-147-107-_-Product

The cable management took some work, and there's still some tidying I need to do when I update my system in May (monthly paychecks suck).


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## wayn01

Installed the Antec 620 cooler a few days ago.
Had a Noctua NH-U12P SE2 cooler before.
The Antec looks really good and improves the room around the motherboard.
As an experiment I used the Noctua fans in a push/pull setup on the Antec in a intake configuration.
Doing that I improved the cooling by about 2-3c.
Idle temps on my OC 920 are about +/-40c
With having an exhaust configuration because I have two GTX 285 cards with aftermarket cooling the heat they put into the case was getting "sucked" out through the Antec causing it to heat up more.
Not sure if the Noctua fans are correct for the Antec, maybe somebody can suggest a better fan.
Also I have them connected up to a fan controller.
My next upgrade (depending on finances) will be a single GTX 580.
That should lower heat in my case.
Overall I'm happy with the Antec 620


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wayn01;13143407*
> Installed the Antec 620 cooler a few days ago.
> Had a Noctua NH-U12P SE2 cooler before.
> The Antec looks really good and improves the room around the motherboard.
> As an experiment I used the Noctua fans in a push/pull setup on the Antec in a intake configuration.
> Doing that I improved the cooling by about 2-3c.
> Idle temps on my OC 920 are about +/-40c
> With having an exhaust configuration because I have two GTX 285 cards with aftermarket cooling the heat they put into the case was getting "sucked" out through the Antec causing it to heat up more.
> Not sure if the Noctua fans are correct for the Antec, maybe somebody can suggest a better fan.
> Also I have them connected up to a fan controller.
> My next upgrade (depending on finances) will be a single GTX 580.
> That should lower heat in my case.
> Overall I'm happy with the Antec 620


For kicks, I decided to use the Antec recommended spec and have the air from in my case exhaust out through the Kuhler. I'mnot liking it. My idle temps and load temps shot up by almost 4-5c compared to when I had cool and clean air push/pull as intake.

Very annoying.


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## BugNutz

Well my 620 came in this week, and it's time for a couple of questions about a new build I'm considering.

Can I safely plug the 620's pump into a 12V Molex and allow it to run at full speed? Does anyone know the thread into the rad? I'd like to find a source for black socket head screws/bolts that'll fit into the 620.

Currently running a Barton 2500 that I built 8-9 years ago, so there is a lot to read\learn but I'm looking forward to this new build.

Thanks


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## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugNutz;13144833*
> Well my 620 came in this week, and it's time for a couple of questions about a new build I'm considering.
> 
> Can I safely plug the 620's pump into a 12V Molex and allow it to run at full speed? Does anyone know the thread into the rad? I'd like to find a source for black socket head screws/bolts that'll fit into the 620.
> 
> Currently running a Barton 2500 that I built 8-9 years ago, so there is a lot to read\learn but I'm looking forward to this new build.
> 
> Thanks


Thats how I'm running it. got a 3 pin to molex and nice fresh power from psu.
Fans are connected to a fan controller for constant speed.
Screws are 6-32 x 1-¼


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## TheBlademaster01

I'm in too


















I just wanted to ask, is it normal to hear the pump over the fans? I'm using an Enermax Apollish NV 120mm and the stock Antec fan.


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## calvinbui

i'm going for a good silence to performance ratio. What would be better, the 620 or 920? I'm gonna have 2 noctua's on it


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## phrossbyte

http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/phrossbyte/profilepic89214_2.jpg

Add me please! I installed mine about a week ago. Unfortunately I mine came with a faulty pump, it makes a clicking sound like a hard drive churning and I'm waiting for my replacement from Antec to come.

Great cooler though! Great company!


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## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13147880*
> http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/phrossbyte/profilepic89214_2.jpg
> 
> http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/phrossbyte/profilepic89214_2.jpg
> 
> Add me please! I installed mine about a week ago. Unfortunately I mine came with a faulty pump, it makes a clicking sound like a hard drive churning and I'm waiting for my replacement from Antec to come.
> 
> Great cooler though! Great company!


Mine does this too. So it should not make that sound? If so I'll have to run on the stock cooler for a while









EDIT:

Does it affect cooling performance?


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13147880*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://i1117.photobucket.com/albums/k600/phrossbyte/profilepic89214_2.jpg
> 
> Add me please! I installed mine about a week ago. Unfortunately I mine came with a faulty pump, it makes a clicking sound like a hard drive churning and I'm waiting for my replacement from Antec to come.
> 
> Great cooler though! Great company!


please add yourself







that way you can comment on it, nad tell us what fans you are using

thanks for the pics everyone


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## TheBlademaster01

I noticed that the sound stops after I played a game







. After a while it slowly starts to make noise again though.


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## TheBigC

Wow! That looks awesome! Compared to an H70 how much better is it?









EDIT: Is it worth the upgrade?


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## BugNutz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manooti;13145740*
> Thats how I'm running it. got a 3 pin to molex and nice fresh power from psu.
> Fans are connected to a fan controller for constant speed.
> Screws are 6-32 x 1-¼


Good to know.

Thanks Manooti.


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## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01;13150618*
> I noticed that the sound stops after I played a game
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . After a while it slowly starts to make noise again though.


I sometimes notice that is stops making the noise for a few minutes at a time. Sometimes its during games.


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13152888*
> I sometimes notice that is stops making the noise for a few minutes at a time. Sometimes its during games.


Strange. The pump on my Antec 620 is virtually silent except when I start it up. It makes that kinda wooshing water noise that lets me know it is working properly. I'd get the cooler replaced if it's making any kind of clicking noise. Never know when that might take a turn for the worse.


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## calvinbui

i'm going for a good silence to performance ratio. What would be better, the 620 or 920? I'm gonna have 2 noctua's on it


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;13153264*
> i'm going for a good silence to performance ratio. What would be better, the 620 or 920? I'm gonna have 2 noctua's on it


Really just depends what fans you're planning to use. I've seen the Antec fans ramp up to full blast and while it blows a stupid amount of air, it sounds like a turbine.

I'm planning to get some lower RPM fans with decent static pressure to do a push/pull config in a relatively silent setup.

Atm, I have my antec fan connected to one of those 7v resistors, which makes it virtually silent. I have another relatively quiet Cooler Master fan aiding this one in a push/pull config as intake.

At pretty high ambient temps, my temps don't go above 66c or so at 1.285 v in this silent config. If I let the Antec fan run normally, I generally average around 61c on highest temps.

I'm still working on my overclocking personally, so a lot of this will depend what you're gonna have your settings at. I've been able to down my voltage to about 1.270 v at 4.4 Ghz in about 10 hours of prime. I wanted to play games, so I stopped it after that point.


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## calvinbui

so basically with the same two fans and noise level, which would perform better? The 620 or 920?


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;13153438*
> so basically with the same two fans and noise level, which would perform better? The 620 or 920?


620. I don't like how bulky the 920 looks. Aesthetics are important to me, since I spend a lot of time working on my case and the components that are in it. You'll probably get significantly better cooling results with the 920 though (and a programmable LED on the pump).


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## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune;13153037*
> Strange. The pump on my Antec 620 is virtually silent except when I start it up. It makes that kinda wooshing water noise that lets me know it is working properly. I'd get the cooler replaced if it's making any kind of clicking noise. Never know when that might take a turn for the worse.


I get no sound when it starts up. I've already got a replacement on the way.


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## BradleyW

H20 920 looks brilliant. Would not mind having a go with it!


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## Phos

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01;13150618*
> I noticed that the sound stops after I played a game
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . After a while it slowly starts to make noise again though.


This unit plugs into a motherboard fan header, right? The motherboard might be undervolting the pump when the computer cools down.


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## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos;13155727*
> This unit plugs into a motherboard fan header, right? The motherboard might be undervolting the pump when the computer cools down.


Antec recommends that you disable any kind of dynamic fan control. I tried it on mine, in my BIOS its called Qfan, it was set to Silent, after disabling it the problem was still there.


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos;13155727*
> This unit plugs into a motherboard fan header, right? The motherboard might be undervolting the pump when the computer cools down.


As long as it lists the RPM around 1380-1400 in the BIOS, the pump is technically working at 100%. The fan is connected to the (female?) adapter that's also connected to the pump, and this control's the fan's RPM by determining how hot the thing is getting.


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## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugNutz;13152822*
> Good to know.
> 
> Thanks Manooti.


No problem. Make sure you use some washers as to not puncture the radiator. GL









Just added one of these bad boys to my gf's rig too. She's running an i3 550 at stock. Idles @ ambient and load temps @ 48. Ambient is 21 degrees C.

Her case is so much better than mine and that used to be my case until I went with the Rosewill Destroyer.

Here is a pic. Still working with wire management as one of the side fans took a crap on me two seconds after plugging it in. Lights up but won't spin


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manooti;13156152*
> No problem. Make sure you use some washers as to not puncture the radiator. GL
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just added one of these bad boys to my gf's rig too. She's running an i3 550 at stock. Idles @ ambient and load temps @ 48. Ambient is 21 degrees C.
> 
> Her case is so much better than mine and that used to be my case until I went with the Rosewill Destroyer.
> 
> Here is a pic. Still working with wire management as one of the side fans took a crap on me two seconds after plugging it in. Lights up but won't spin


Awesome man. Your cable management is starting to look a lot better.


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## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune;13156810*
> Awesome man. Your cable management is starting to look a lot better.


Thanks but her pc is a lot easier to configure. My PSU's cables are longer and no where to tuck them. The destroyer is very tight with everything I have. 2 fans on top, 1 in front, 1 on back, fan controller, too many wires for a rosewill destroyer.

One day I'll afford a full tower, hopefully lol


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## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;13153438*
> so basically with the same two fans and noise level, which would perform better? The 620 or 920?


Assuming you had high static pressure fans... Maybe 2 PWM san ace/delta's ... you'd get better performance from the 920. The 920 beats the 620 in raw performance, but the 620 doesn't require fans with as much static pressure because the rad isn't as thick. This means you would be able to get away with 1 good san ace/delta fan vs two.

It's a pretty touch debate, and a lot of it has to do with your fan selection, and fan controller options. I think the best setup would be some San Ace fans on a fan controller with a 920. You got the silence when you need it, and the performance when you need it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;13153264*
> i'm going for a good silence to performance ratio. What would be better, the 620 or 920? I'm gonna have 2 noctua's on it


Probably the 620s. The Noctuas are great fans but they have low static pressure... I don't even think they have over 2mmH2O. Would be a lot easier for them to push air through a 620 rad than a 920 rad.

Nice to see this place picking up









Remember to add yourself to the list!


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## BugNutz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manooti;13156152*
> No problem. Make sure you use some washers as to not puncture the radiator. GL


I hear you on the rad issue. In fact, that is holding up the build now and I'm hoping to source four proper length temporary screws from a local hardware shop on Monday. The combination of a duct flange, air diverter and 55mm fans will make it a bit tricky on that end, but I'll manage.

Wire management will be a challenge for me as well due to the case I'm using, a Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24. But at nearly 50% off, I couldn't pass it up, same for the Triebwerk fans. As usual, you do what you can with what you have on hand - and for some crazy reason that's the fun part.


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## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugNutz;13157330*
> I hear you on the rad issue. In fact, that is holding up the build now and I'm hoping to source four proper length temporary screws from a local hardware shop on Monday. The combination of a duct flange, air diverter and 55mm fans will make it a bit tricky on that end, but I'll manage.
> 
> Wire management will be a challenge for me as well due to the case I'm using, a Mountain Mods Pinnacle 24. But at nearly 50% off, I couldn't pass it up, same for the Triebwerk fans. As usual, you do what you can with what you have on hand - and for some crazy reason that's the fun part.


Thats the best part. Doing with what you have brings out the creativity


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manooti;13157002*
> Thanks but her pc is a lot easier to configure. My PSU's cables are longer and no where to tuck them. The destroyer is very tight with everything I have. 2 fans on top, 1 in front, 1 on back, fan controller, too many wires for a rosewill destroyer.
> 
> One day I'll afford a full tower, hopefully lol


Haha, I wish manufacturers would put at least 1 1/2 - 2 inches of space for the back panel of the case. That's probably the hardest part for me.

I'm using a crazy amount of fans in my rig.

I have two for the push/pull config that's being used as intake

I have two on the very top as exhaust.

I have two on the bottom as Intake.

I have three in the front as intake.

And I got one of those memory coolers.

Kinda sucks, cause I'll have to redo all my wiring once I purchase a new set of fans on the 20th.

Personally, I've never used a full tower case. It's probably a ton easier to work with, but I've never wanted a case that big. Anyway, GL with your rig, man.


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## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos;13155727*
> This unit plugs into a motherboard fan header, right? The motherboard might be undervolting the pump when the computer cools down.


I had it plugged into the motherboard header indeed. Now I plugged it into my fancontroller and I noticed that the sound goes away if I undervolt it, but isn't that bad for the pump?


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## jak3z

I saw some people running the fan in pull configuration only. I recommend using a push configuration if you using 1 fan. Theres 1-2ºC difference in doing that. As for the pump problems, I haven't had the issue. If you hear water moving sometimes after turning the computer ON, is because the unit is not 100% water filled, theres a bit of air so the liquid can expand with the heat.


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## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jak3z;13159083*
> I saw some people running the fan in pull configuration only. I recommend using a push configuration if you using 1 fan. Theres 1-2ºC difference in doing that. As for the pump problems, I haven't had the issue. If you hear water moving sometimes after turning the computer ON, is because the unit is not 100% water filled, theres a bit of air so the liquid can expand with the heat.


The system (620) is designed to be a pull system. I wonder why they didn't design it as a push if it works better that way.

Yeah but the problem I am having is constant, not just when it turns on. But doesn't matter, Antec is sending a new one!


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## jak3z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13159418*
> The system (620) is designed to be a pull system. I wonder why they didn't design it as a push if it works better that way.
> 
> Yeah but the problem I am having is constant, not just when it turns on. But doesn't matter, Antec is sending a new one!


I'm just telling people what Antec discovered after testings. You can find it out at the Antec blog.


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## jivenjune

Just an update:

After some more experimentation, I decided to remove one of the fans I was using in a push/pull config. I have the stock fan now being used as intake (pulling cold air from the back of my case into it) and am now seeing significantly better temperatures than I was prior.

I recommend people who are using the push/pull config to try removing one of the fans and seeing if they notice a difference.

Edit: I'll probably switch to a 1450 RPM Gentle Typhoon in the future. Will let you guys know how that works out.


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## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune;13163244*
> Just an update:
> 
> After some more experimentation, I decided to remove one of the fans I was using in a push/pull config. I have the stock fan now being used as intake (pulling cold air from the back of my case into it) and am now seeing significantly better temperatures than I was prior.
> 
> I recommend people who are using the push/pull config to try removing one of the fans and seeing if they notice a difference.
> 
> Edit: I'll probably switch to a 1450 RPM Gentle Typhoon in the future. Will let you guys know how that works out.


I heard the typhoons arent that great for radiators. Depending on the fin spacing I think.

I'm using 2x Blade Masters by Cooler Master. 3.96 mmH2o 2k rpm.
Not sure what other fans provide high static pressure other than the ones I'm using. Could not find any info on the fans except the ones that had significantly lower static pressure like .8, 1.6 and so on. 3.9 seems good to me unless I missed on some other fans with higher static pressure that obviously didn't list that information.

I tried looking for the air pressure, but couldn't find it so I got these.


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## grassh0ppa

Honestly I wouldn't trust CM fan specs. Their other R4 fans are rated at 90CFM and <20 dba... in reality they are around 70-75 cfm and 25-30 dba. the 3.96mmH2O I don't believe at all, it's probably closer to 2 if I had to guess.


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## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manooti;13165852*
> I heard the typhoons arent that great for radiators. Depending on the fin spacing I think.
> 
> I'm using 2x Blade Masters by Cooler Master. 3.96 mmH2o 2k rpm.
> Not sure what other fans provide high static pressure other than the ones I'm using. Could not find any info on the fans except the ones that had significantly lower static pressure like .8, 1.6 and so on. 3.9 seems good to me unless I missed on some other fans with higher static pressure that obviously didn't list that information.
> 
> I tried looking for the air pressure, but couldn't find it so I got these.


Thanks for the tip. I was looking at this thread:

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/595674-best-radiator-fans.html

The gentle typhoons got some decent opinions out of people, so I'll probably go with those though. That being said, my rig won't be updated until 20 May, so I'll take a look at the CM fans.

My requirement is something that will provide decent performance at a relatively silent operation.


----------



## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune;13163244*
> Just an update:
> 
> After some more experimentation, I decided to remove one of the fans I was using in a push/pull config. I have the stock fan now being used as intake (pulling cold air from the back of my case into it) and am now seeing significantly better temperatures than I was prior.
> 
> I recommend people who are using the push/pull config to try removing one of the fans and seeing if they notice a difference.
> 
> Edit: I'll probably switch to a 1450 RPM Gentle Typhoon in the future. Will let you guys know how that works out.


I read a review and they got better results using a single fan. Odd though.

I assume you have your case fans arranged so your airflow going from back to front?


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13167334*
> I read a review and they got better results using a single fan. Odd though.
> 
> I assume you have your case fans arranged so your airflow going from back to front?


My rig is a little hard to explain since I have so many fans (preparing for the summer). This picture doesn't have all of my fans installed, since I just did that recently. I'm just pointing out the airflow paths.


----------



## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune;13168269*
> My rig is a little hard to explain since I have so many fans (preparing for the summer). This picture doesn't have all of my fans installed, since I just did that recently. I'm just pointing out the airflow paths.


You have some serious positive air pressure in there. That's good.

I might have to try something like that. We've been having some warmer days here in Maryland and the upstairs room gets pretty damn warm and I noticed when stress testing my cpu hit 61C even with the H2O as a result of high ambient air temps.

So maybe I should try pulling in air from outside the case. Might help some. Plus I think I could use some more positive pressure in my setup.


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13168682*
> You have some serious positive air pressure in there. That's good.
> 
> I might have to try something like that. We've been having some warmer days here in Maryland and the upstairs room gets pretty damn warm and I noticed when stress testing my cpu hit 61C even with the H2O as a result of high ambient air temps.
> 
> So maybe I should try pulling in air from outside the case. Might help some. Plus I think I could use some more positive pressure in my setup.


Yeah, it's a lot. The clear 120mm I have on the windowed side panel is exhaust because there was enough air pressure in the case to force air out in that direction without a fan. I just added the fan so that it'd assist the two 140mm on the top.


----------



## Antec_rep

Hey guys, I'll be checking back early and often. It's great to see this thread has some legs!


----------



## VettePilot

I have mine set up in a push pull like the tech at Fry's recommended to me. I have only has the PC for a week. Temps are 31-33 idle for the CPU. I don't think that the Asus suite II software reports the right temps though. Maybe I will take of the top pull fan.

I have a Raven 2 case and was trying to figure our how to move more air through the case and get more air to the mobo and GPU. I can remove the front 5.25'' drive bay covers and there is enough room for 120mm or maybe a 140mm fan but no way to secure it.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *jak3z*


I saw some people running the fan in pull configuration only. I recommend using a push configuration if you using 1 fan. Theres 1-2ÂºC difference in doing that. As for the pump problems, I haven't had the issue. If you hear water moving sometimes after turning the computer ON, is because the unit is not 100% water filled, theres a bit of air so the liquid can expand with the heat.


----------



## rrplay

I have installed my Antec 620 in a Silevertone SG07 mini-atx and would not likely be able to do so without the newer more flexible tubing.very cool and quiet


----------



## jivenjune

Wow, awesome. So many more people have the 620 now. Physically fill out your information on the front page, and add yourselves to the club, everyone.


----------



## MuzicFreq

Kinda laughed when the Asetek guy said that the 920 was running Prime for only 30 minutes and the temps were great.... AT 75-80c!!!!!


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:



Originally Posted by *MuzicFreq*


Kinda laughed when the Asetek guy said that the 920 was running Prime for only 30 minutes and the temps were great.... AT 75-80c!!!!!


Okay?


----------



## Run N. Gun

Hey Grassh0ppa

Add me for the 620 for now. [edit - Nevermind, I added myself.] When the 920 comes out, I'll probably upgrade to that.



















Thanks!

RnG


----------



## jivenjune

Damn, that is awesome man.


----------



## Run N. Gun

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jivenjune;13181132*
> Damn, that is awesome man.


Thanks!


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Run N. Gun*


Hey Grassh0ppa

Add me for the 620 for now. [edit - Nevermind, I added myself.] When the 920 comes out, I'll probably upgrade to that.



















Thanks!

RnG


Man, that is a beautiful rig. Loved the build log!

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Antec_rep*


Hey guys, I'll be checking back early and often. It's great to see this thread has some legs!


Awesome! Antec and Asetek reps in this thread







I'll keep on sifting through the thread to add more to the FAQ section as you guys answer questions or give us some extra information.


----------



## BugNutz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Run N. Gun;13180388*


Now that's just real purdy.

Yes sir.


----------



## BugNutz

I had some time to begin my first build up tonight. Just a slap it together, let it run for a couple of days and see if I need to RMA anything. Then take it apart and rub on it a bit for the final. Try and get a pic up to show that duct.


----------



## Chuckclc

Im here and in the club! Got some crappy camera phone pics of the box and unboxing.





































Couple more inside the case pics on the way.



















Overall after owning this for about an hour I am impressed. Max temps running ITB on max and my Thuban at 4.0ghz was only 51c. So only about 2-3c max hotter then my old Copper TRUE. Also the setup with pull only and your using in case air to go out across the radiator through the back of the case it really surprises me that temps are that good. Guess a case with nice airflow is needed for this setup though. If not I guess turning around the fan and pulling in cooler ambient air to cool the radiator would work. Ill check back in from time to time with results and screenshots. Want to get my other Delta on there for P/P and let the thermal paste cure a bit. BTW I'm using stock paste at the moment.

Just thought of a question guys. What size screws do I need to mount another 25mm fan? And for a 38mm fan?


----------



## calvinbui

what do you guys think. I got a Lian Li A05NB which is a small case and i want more intake. My AMD 955 isn't overclocked (cause there is no reason for it to be). What would be the better option for me, the 620 with dual fans (for increased intake) or 920.


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;13187228*
> what do you guys think. I got a Lian Li A05NB which is a small case and i want more intake. My AMD 955 isn't overclocked (cause there is no reason for it to be). What would be the better option for me, the 620 with dual fans (for increased intake) or 920.


Use the Antec stock fan by itself as intake. That should work more than fine for your needs.


----------



## jak3z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antec_rep;13174315*
> Hey guys, I'll be checking back early and often. It's great to see this thread has some legs!


I needed you 1 week ago









The screws needed to mount another fan are 30mm long. And for 38mm fans, 40mm should do it, but might want to buy 45mm ones and cut them to 43mm.
The thread is 6-32.


----------



## Dynomutt

got the 620 today,

its pretty good!

noticed pump noise at 1st but after reading some tips eliminated it, here's how,

I put my rig on its side whilst powered on, unmounted the rad, shook it up a bit and also tightened the mounts on the block bracket, now running silent.

temps at 58'c overclocked under Linx load with 1.46 vcore & 1.4 cpu/nb, ambients pretty darn high tonight though, also using push pull exhaust config on the rad.

added myself to the list.


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jak3z;13192541*
> I needed you 1 week ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screws needed to mount another fan are 30mm long. And for 38mm fans, 40mm should do it, but might want to buy 45mm ones and cut them to 43mm.
> The thread is 6-32.


Hey thanks!


----------



## Rakhasa

Anyone with a HAF X + 920 or 930 or 950 @ 1.3vcore?? I wanna know the temps with this sort of setup! Thanks


----------



## nagle3092

So I emailed Antec yesterday because I think I might get the 620 but I wanted to know if they would replace my components if it leaked (like corsair supposedly does). Here is what they had to say.

Quote:


> Comment: Hi,
> 
> We will do the same. But according to our manufacturer
> there is no possibility it will leak unless there was some physical damage.
> 
> if you use it normally, it should be fine.
> 
> Thank you
> antec support!


I like that warm and fuzzy from manufacturers backing their products.


----------



## phrossbyte

Got my replacement 620 today because of a faulty pump and the new one works like a dream. I hadn't noticed until I put in the new one, but the fan with my original cooler ran much faster (louder) for some reason.

All is well now. Gotta love Antec!


----------



## jivenjune

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13194456*
> Got my replacement 620 today because of a faulty pump and the new one works like a dream. I hadn't noticed until I put in the new one, but the fan with my original cooler ran much faster (louder) for some reason.
> 
> All is well now. Gotta love Antec!


Antec is sending me a replacement fan for the exact same reason. Their customer support is just amazing. Good to hear your cooler is working up to standards.

Edit: I wonder if that's a problem with the thermal sensor in my pump.... Oi.


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jak3z;13192541*
> I needed you 1 week ago
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The screws needed to mount another fan are 30mm long. And for 38mm fans, 40mm should do it, but might want to buy 45mm ones and cut them to 43mm.
> The thread is 6-32.


6-32 x1 1/4

maybe 6-32x1 1/2 for bigger fans. just use extra washers and/or nuts to compensate instead of cutting it. too much work lol


----------



## jak3z

Cutting takes 5 seconds with a dremel lol

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jak3z;13198684*
> Cutting takes 5 seconds with a dremel lol
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


Are you nuts? Thats way too much time taken away from a 24 hour period!!! I have games to play!


----------



## TheBlademaster01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13194456*
> Got my replacement 620 today because of a faulty pump and the new one works like a dream. I hadn't noticed until I put in the new one, but the fan with my original cooler ran much faster (louder) for some reason.
> 
> All is well now. Gotta love Antec!


How did you receive the new one? Did you run the stock Intel cooler all this time?


----------



## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBlademaster01;13206223*
> How did you receive the new one? Did you run the stock Intel cooler all this time?


I got in touch with Antec support and asked for their help. They gave me advice on things to try and even contacted Asetek for some advice. In the end they determined the pump must be faulty and sent a new one and asked that I return the damaged one to them once I receive the new one.

Since the pump was making an annoying constant noise but still operating I used it until the new one came.

The new one only makes a slight hum noise. So nice!


----------



## jivenjune

Booh, I finally got my replacement for the stock Antec fan.

However, the replacement arrived defective. It wouldn't spin. I let it sit in the header for a minute, and it began to overheat at a rapid speed.

Unplugged it and began to fiddle around with it to see if something was obstructing the bearing. I peeled the sticker where you can usually stick some grease in, but there was a hard shell covering the thing. Upon closer inspection, I noticed I could just pull the whole fan off.

Didn't realize it was one of those kinds of fans, so I thought that was kinda cool. I'll probably get another replacement from them pretty soon.


----------



## amdcrankitup

I have just recently aquired the 620 and hope to install it soon with pictures and of video! Try to make a comparision between my existing air cooler and the H 620 cooler!


----------



## Zrad522

Hey guys, just got my 620 in the mail yesterday, LOVE it. So I have a NZXT Hades for my case, and if you haven't heard, it doesn't support the h50/h70/620/920 because of a large 200mm fan on the side. That didn't stop me. I put the radiator and fan in the 5.25 bays, zip tied and "floating", and have it running exhaust through the front mesh. Compared to results I've seen, it looks like I'm only losing 1 degree C! I've now ordered two Enermax Magma 120mm fans to run push pull configuration through the front.


----------



## SonofNoob

Keeping me cool in the 60s at 4.5ghz
still tweeking but at 5.0ghz and 1.52v im in the 80s so im staying at 4.5 for now
Using a push pull config with the stock fan and one of my nzxt case fans.


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SonofNoob;13245761*
> Keeping me cool in the 60s at 4.5ghz
> still tweeking but at 5.0ghz and 1.52v im in the 80s so im staying at 4.5 for now
> Using a push pull config with the stock fan and one of my nzxt case fans.


That doesn't sound very promissing. My 92mm Noctua keeps me below 60c while folding using 1.37v at 4.7ghz.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk


----------



## grassh0ppa

pretty sure hes using the NZXT case fan on his heatsink. Probably worse performance than the stock cooler lol. add two of them and they would look cool, be quiet, and perform nicely though


----------



## grunion

1.52v vs 1.37v
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nagle3092;13246563*
> That doesn't sound very promissing. My 92mm Noctua keeps me below 60c while folding using 1.37v at 4.7ghz.
> 
> Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk


Looking at getting one of these plug in play wc systems for my e8400, this rig is 24/7 machine and will be for at least a couple more years.

What kind of life expectancy for these coolers?


----------



## nagle3092

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13248818*
> 1.52v vs 1.37v
> 
> Looking at getting one of these plug in play wc systems for my e8400, this rig is 24/7 machine and will be for at least a couple more years.
> 
> What kind of life expectancy for these coolers?


He said he was in the 60s at 4.5ghz as mine stays below 60 while folding (I doubt he's pumping 1.52v at 4.5). I would go with one of these over the corsairs though because the antecs have a 3 year warranty over corsairs what I think is 2 years.

Sent from my VM670 using Tapatalk


----------



## jak3z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion;13248818*
> 1.52v vs 1.37v
> 
> Looking at getting one of these plug in play wc systems for my e8400, this rig is 24/7 machine and will be for at least a couple more years.
> 
> What kind of life expectancy for these coolers?


It haves 3 years warranty so 3 years at least.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## manooti

Just switched my case. Nice improvement in temps. Too hot in my room to run a stress test to measure temps, but will later when I can turn on a/c and post up updated temp info.

Here are some before and after pics. Took me a loooong time to get the case to close with all the wires. Looks perty though. If i didnt use the front audio on sound card the wire management would of looked better. I'm thinking of getting those wire router things that stick on. Anyone tried those?

Before:

















After:
Tried to use the 6pin pci-e extensions but side panel wouldnt close. Stuck using power supply pci-e with the damn +2 pins








Would've looked nice if ATI did rear sockets instead of side, oh well.


----------



## Chuckclc

I need some more screws for push/pull!!! Keep missing the hardware store.


----------



## BugNutz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manooti;13251510*
> Just switched my case. Here are some before and after pics. Took me a loooong time to get the case to close with all the wires. Looks perty though.
> 
> Before:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> After:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Would've looked nice if ATI did rear sockets instead of side, oh well. I'm thinking of getting those wire router things that stick on. Anyone tried those?


Talk about a night and day difference, wow! The new case works great, my friend. Well done indeed.

And I know what you mean about the graphics card power cable locations. I have 16 lines hanging out in the middle of my set-up. Oh well.









I've used the stick ons for cable management with good results. Keeping them as high or low in the case as possible seemed to work best.

BTW, finished up my initial build, got a WEI of two 7.8's and three 7.9's with no RMA's needed thus far. Looks like I'm good to go. That 620 is so cool and quiet, me likey.


----------



## Aerotropolis

How's the stock paste? Comparable to Corsair's?


----------



## DrizzlePistol

I`m about to buy the H20 920 but I would like to know if these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_407_696&products_id=26686 fans are good? If not, could you please recommend me one? It needs to be white and preferably silent-ish.


----------



## dezmick

I am getting ready to build the system that is displayed, i currently have a V8 and am just wanting to know if the H20 620 would be a better option in my Silverstone FT02B-W, i will be building the computer next weekend, and i can still take my V8 back and get something else i just want to make sure that what i will be getting will be and upgrade, and i would like to know if i made it a push pull unit with the air being exhausted out the top of the case if that would work best for the H20 620. Thanks


----------



## phrossbyte

*Update to my situation with my 620 making a rattling noise.*

Antec sent me a replacement and it worked fine for about 24 hours just like my original one. But then the rattling noise started again. Though it's not as frequent as the original.

To make sure it wasn't something else in my case I took everything apart and reassembled the system, making sure all cables were secured and nothing was touching the fans. But the noise was still there.

So I took the old cooler while the new one was still installed and hooked it up to one of the fan power connectors on my motherboard so I could run it external from my case and hear it close up and I have confirmed it is not anything else in my case. It is coming from the pump.

I have shaken it to rid it of bubbles but it doesn't appear to be an issue with bubbles. So I have had 2 620s now and both have this noise issue.

Real bummer cause the bump cools great. But the noise is like chinese water torture!!!


----------



## BugNutz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick;13256849*
> I am getting ready to build the system that is displayed, i currently have a V8 and am just wanting to know if the H20 620 would be a better option in my Silverstone FT02B-W, i will be building the computer next weekend, and i can still take my V8 back and get something else i just want to make sure that what i will be getting will be and upgrade, and i would like to know if i made it a push pull unit with the air being exhausted out the top of the case if that would work best for the H20 620. Thanks


Dezmick, my pump is pulling a greater vertical distance than your case requires, and it's working very well. So my guess is that you'll be fine.

Best of luck with whatever you choose.


----------



## BugNutz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13257541*
> *Update to my situation with my 620 making a rattling noise.*
> 
> I have shaken it to rid it of bubbles but it doesn't appear to be an issue with bubbles. So I have had 2 620s now and both have this noise issue.
> 
> Real bummer cause the bump cools great. But the noise is like chinese water torture!!!


Phrossbyte, two in a row is some sad news. I'm sure that's not at all what Antec wants to happen with a customer. All you can do is try again and hope a third time is the charm.

My pump sounded like a babbling brook for the first couple of minutes then quickly became so quiet that I stood there amazed. It's been that silent ever since, including each subsequent start up.

Hang in there and I'll bet you'll be glad you did.


----------



## jivenjune

Zz...


----------



## For Victory

I'm going to be using a Kuhler 920 in a Coolermaster HAF 932. Can anyone recommend where in the case I should put the radiator and fans? I was going to do push/pull exhaust but I'm not completely sure yet. Also, what aftermarket fans are people putting on this unit? Last but not least, is a HAF 932 even a good matchup for the Kuhler 920? Thank you.


----------



## phrossbyte

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BugNutz;13257660*
> Phrossbyte, two in a row is some sad news. I'm sure that's not at all what Antec wants to happen with a customer. All you can do is try again and hope a third time is the charm.
> 
> My pump sounded like a babbling brook for the first couple of minutes then quickly became so quiet that I stood there amazed. It's been that silent ever since, including each subsequent start up.
> 
> Hang in there and I'll bet you'll be glad you did.


What can you do? Antec is gonna send off the first one to the manufacturer to see what the problem is. We'll see what happens. Maybe if I turn my case fans up loud enough and turn on a box fan in the room along with my tv on it's loudest setting, maybe then I won't be able to hear the cooler churning and rattling away!


----------



## Zrad522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrizzlePistol;13256637*
> I`m about to buy the H20 920 but I would like to know if these: http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_407_696&products_id=26686 fans are good? If not, could you please recommend me one? It needs to be white and preferably silent-ish.


Enermax Magma 120mm fans, 70cfm and 18db, and i can vouch for them. Pretty cheap too, and they fit perfectly with the screws given on the 620.(what I'm using)


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zrad522;13285195*
> Enermax Magma 120mm fans, 70cfm and 18db, and i can vouch for them. Pretty cheap too, and they fit perfectly with the screws given on the 620.(what I'm using)


Wow, those are really nice fans if they live up to spec. Any idea what the static pressure is on those?


----------



## Zrad522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13299830*
> Wow, those are really nice fans if they live up to spec. Any idea what the static pressure is on those?


Im pretty busy right now, but a quick google search should do the trick. I don't know how accurate this is. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=49&products_id=23806


----------



## grunion

Anyone have links to etailers with them in stock?


----------



## VettePilot

Here are a couple of pics of mine. I have crap light in my room and my Droid X does not take good pics in low light.


----------



## fishhawk

Love my h2o 620, for the money you cant go wrong. And great temps. Had too lap it-lol.


----------



## calvinbui

i know Performance PC's has the 920 in stock. I bought mine off eBay cause i live in Australia and the seller was happy to lower the price by $15


----------



## fishhawk

Nice-i didnt realise the 920s were out for sale yet-there earlyer than Antec projected-COOL. Guess i will be getting one and put my 620 on my 955be-retire my 120 true extreem, i think i will mount it-loved that cooler!!







Even got my free antec t when i preordered my 620.


----------



## dezmick

I built my system yesterday and i love the 620, my idle temps are 25 24 24 25 while i am typing this, that is pretty cool for a 2600k. great cooler way better than my old V8. I set it up in push/pull using the stock silverstone fan at the top of case and the antec fan inside the case with rad in between them, it seems to be working pretty well for me that way.


----------



## VettePilot

That is cooler than mine. I am running at 29-30 right now and it is 71 in my room.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick;13336934*
> I built my system yesterday and i love the 620, my idle temps are 25 24 24 25 while i am typing this, that is pretty cool for a 2600k. great cooler way better than my old V8.


----------



## Sainesk

ordered a 620 while I sort out the problems with my Rasa kit...

are these really almost as good as a h70?

and does anyone know what TIM comes pre-applied on these? and how is it compared to other compounds?


----------



## fishhawk

All i know is one tech told me it was antec tim, but did not say wich one. i never used mine-i should have just to see. And yes-these are as good as the h70, infact if you google reveiws, most will show only a 1 or 2c degree in the h70,s favor-but the catch is-the h70 comes with 2 fans, the 620 has only one, i use a push pull on mine i get great temps.


----------



## calvinbui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;13342965*
> ordered a 620 while I sort out the problems with my Rasa kit...
> 
> are these really almost as good as a h70?
> 
> and does anyone know what TIM comes pre-applied on these? and how is it compared to other compounds?


920>h70/620>H60>H50

TIM should be Shin-Estu. Asetek used them for the Hydro series


----------



## David_VI

Hey guys.

I've recently built a PC with the Kuhler 620.
I was impressed at how quiet it was then a day later its noisy as hell. I did some inspecting and it appears to be the fan, if I stop it with my finger the system is near silent.

Its almost like the fan is running at full speed all the time, nothing else in my case is as loud.

I've been running it push/pull with the Antec fan on the chasis and a Xilence Red wing 120mm on the CPU Side of the radiator and the Xilence fan is near Silent.

Got the Kuhler plugged into the Cpu_Fan header, Antec fan connected to the Kuhler. Xilence fan running off of Sys fan_1

Has anyone else experienced this? I'm a bit confused. Could something be wrong? I can't say i've read that the fan is loud, thought its speed was varied by the kuhler. My temps are 29-35C idle @4.5ghz oc'ed so it can't be running fast to combat the temps.

Cheers
David


----------



## David_VI

No ideas yet?

Anyway I figured I need to get two matching fans and possibly control them via a controller.

As this is a thread of Kuhler users could anyone reccomend a good fan or two that compliment the Kuhler near perfectly? I'm thinking quiet as possible but still moves enough air to let the Kuhler work to its best.

Thanks guy
David


----------



## fishhawk

Well, not sure if this will help you or not, but as far as the stock fan that comes with the 620, i,m very impressed with it, it has great air flow, nice static pressure and i think is pretty quiet on full speed. If antec would have had ones to sell at moment i would have bought a second. But,To each his own on noise factor ofcource. If you want to put out a few bucks, the gentle typhoons by scythe are a good choice, other wise, cooler master r4,s put out some great air-and cooled mine pretty good, but now i,m useing the scythe kaze 88cfm fans and i realy like them alot, but if your going to get a controler you do have other options depending on what you want to spend, i,m moveing up once again to the kaze 110 cfm fans, becuz newegg has a great price on them.

Realy depends on how much wind noise your willing to deal with.

My new fans are coming today-will see if i get a bit more cooler with them.

One more thing, i would stay away from SilenX fans, for the amount of money you pay my oppion is they are way over priced, i have 120x 25 72cfm and the 120x38 90cfm, for just a case fan to move air sure, but not worth the money unless there %50 off.


----------



## fishhawk

By the way tim pre applied on the 620/920 is Shin-Etsu X-23-7868-2D, Got the complete spec sheet from Antec.


----------



## k_ozz

I am thinking about getting the 620 and wanted some input on how my airflow would be, my case is an Antec p183 and it has filters on the front that keep the dust out and they do a pretty good job actually so I would prefer to keep using them as intakes, which is why I want to try having it pull 1st to see how it works compared to my fan setup, then try the attached picture base on the feedback that I get here if I don't have that great of a performance.

Thanks,

K


----------



## Talos77

Hi,

I'm looking at buying either the 620 or the 920 (still undecided atm) and have 2 questions that I'm hoping someone might be able to answer.

1) Can the fan adaptor on the 620 handle running two fans or would it be better to run them from a fan controller?

2) Has anyone tried two Gentle Typhoon AP-15's (1850rpm model) on either heatsink? Seeing as the GT's cap out below the speed of the stock fans on the 920 but still have high static pressure I am thinking I will be running two of these in push/pull.

Thanks.


----------



## fishhawk

Hello,the fan adapter might beable to run 2 fans, but i would not,for the fact on the 620 it was desighned with only one fan in mind. The 920 comes with 2 so that one prob would be fine, my oppion is though, with all the options one has with mobo fan headers and extra power connectors on your psu and with installing fan controlers why chance it, devide your power draw up as much as possible is the best any way.

And the gt,s are great fans yes, but you might want to wait befor buying, the fan i got with my 620 is pretty dam good, yes i swaped it out for the kaze modle with a push pull config, but only becuz antec did not have the fan that came with the 620 for sale. Here are the stats for the fan on the 620, static pressure is pretty good. And all i can say about the noise on the stock fan is that it is not bad considering the specs and what it does,and just fyi, when you plug it into the mobo, the speed reading you get is from the pump not the fan.

Fan for 620

Bearing Type: Sleeve

Rated Volt: 12.0V

Rated Speed: 2,000rpm +/-10%

Max. Air Flow: 81.32 CFM

Max. Static Air Pressure: 3.394 mm-H2O

Noise Level: 27.36 dBA (Max.)


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13353821*
> By the way tim pre applied on the 620/920 is Shin-Etsu X-23-7868-2D, Got the complete spec sheet from Antec.


Really? Dang I got much better temps after applying AS5. Maybe they just put too much on at stock.


----------



## fishhawk

Me too, i use as5 and my temps dropped by 5c. I wasnt at all impressed by the stock tim. But i,m sure it is the way it is applied, becuz it realy is great tim. And i have read from others that have used the h50 and h70, the same thing once they reapplied tim from the stock,better temps and its the same tim they use on corsair and antec liquid cooled.


----------



## Dynomutt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13377681*
> Me too, i use as5 and my temps dropped by 5c. I wasnt at all impressed by the stock tim. But i,m sure it is the way it is applied, becuz it realy is great tim. And i have read from others that have used the h50 and h70, the same thing once they reapplied tim from the stock,better temps and its the same tim they use on corsair and antec liquid cooled.


Really??? was that temp after the curing period or straight after application??, looks like I will be applying some AS5 tonight if it's really that much better.


----------



## fishhawk

Well that depends on your set up, what vcore you have,if and what push pull set up,plus i have my cpu and cold plate lapped. And remember, that shin-etsu that is pre applied is some of the best out there. But all i can say is on mine i got better temps with my set up. I apply my tim by tinting the heat sink and also tinting the cpu, than applieing a very very small rice grain size drop to the center of the cpu, that seems to work best for me. And if useing as5, one of there techs told me -when you do a good lapping job on heatsink and cpu, there realy isnt much if any cure in time,becuz of the good lapping job, temps may not change at all-i have notice this useing as5 for a long time now, that is why i asked Artic silver that question on why no temp drop.


----------



## Dynomutt

well I cant complain at the temps I have at the moment as my unlocked x2 560 needs 1.52 Vcore for 3.8ghz, I probably need to work on getting this lower but i have had enough of tweaking for the time being and will get back to it once i have my RAM's back from RMA, I get 33 -38 idle temps depending on current ambient temps with C&Q and C1 enabled and have seen up to 58'c under Prime95 load for 9+ hours, might just leave it alone till I can get some grit and maybe do some lapping myself.


----------



## Talos77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fishhawk*


And the gt,s are great fans yes, but you might want to wait befor buying,

Max. Static Air Pressure: 3.394 mm-H2O
Noise Level: 27.36 dBA (Max.)


Thanks for that. I already have the two AP-15's from my current setup so would just be using those.

They have a SAP of 2.9mmH2O so they arent far behind the stock antec fan (but of course the antec fan spins a bit faster).


----------



## Sainesk

yay it came fast, looks good apart from whoever shipped it probably felt like trying to see what it's like to play hacky sack with the box


















too lazy to install it today...


----------



## Antec_rep

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Sainesk*


yay it came fast, looks good apart from whoever shipped it probably felt like trying to see what it's like to play hacky sack with the box


















too lazy to install it today...










Wow - for me, getting new hardware is like getting an adrenaline rush!


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antec_rep;13383010*
> Wow - for me, getting new hardware is like getting an adrenaline rush!


Lol, yeah. I never have received new stuff and did not give immediate attention to. So I guess you are a stronger man then me? Or Im just more nerdier. Well I m more nerdier for trying to use the word "nerdier".


----------



## BaronOvHell

920 coming tomorrow, I'll post some impressions


----------



## BradleyW

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Antec_rep*


Wow - for me, getting new hardware is like getting an adrenaline rush!


This explains why your a hardware rep.


----------



## fishhawk

Hurray!!!!!







Sure you will love it-i sure do my 620.


----------



## grassh0ppa

I built my comp finally and the temps seem good so far. avg of 39 at load with stock i5-2500k.

couple things though, it was a pain to install, and the plastic screw holder kinda broke when i was screwing it in - still works fine though.

Need to get some screws to add my second kama flow2... I dont feel much air pushing through the rad with 1, but the temps seem low anyway.


----------



## fishhawk

How come you thought it was a pain to install, i thought mine was realy simple. And i did crack my plastic screw holders, but no big deal,didnt hurt and i have reinstalled this thing about a dozen times looking for the best cooling i could get. And to tell the truth, the stock fan wasnt bad at all, 81cfm,s plus 3.94 on static. but i,m useing 2 kaze 88cfm,s now. Works great.


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13393286*
> I built my comp finally and the temps seem good so far. avg of 39 at load with stock i5-2500k.
> 
> couple things though, it was a pain to install, and the plastic screw holder kinda broke when i was screwing it in - still works fine though.
> 
> Need to get some screws to add my second kama flow2... I dont feel much air pushing through the rad with 1, but the temps seem low anyway.


I used washers to apply even pressure. Then firmly tightened them suckers down. I'll take a pic when I get home.

They were recycled washers from some old pc builds, fan screw washers specifically. They had the perfect spacing. When I tightened down I pushed the washer so it wouldn't break the tiny protruding clip and they all sat flush between clips and screw.

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13393844*
> How come you thought it was a pain to install, i thought mine was realy simple. And i did crack my plastic screw holders, but no big deal,didnt hurt and i have reinstalled this thing about a dozen times looking for the best cooling i could get. And to tell the truth, the stock fan wasnt bad at all, 81cfm,s plus 3.94 on static. but i,m useing 2 kaze 88cfm,s now. Works great.


thats the rated spec of the antec fan? How did you find that out??

I might just use the antec fan then.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antec_rep;13383010*
> Wow - for me, getting new hardware is like getting an adrenaline rush!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Chuckclc;13388245*
> So I guess you are a stronger man then me? Or Im just more nerdier.


it's just been one of those weeks where i've spent more time in my computer than on it...









anyway...

does this look right? something tells me the washers don't go between the rad and fan, am I right? silly me...










is 49-53 core degrees under p95 maximum heat/power consumption reasonable for stock clocks on a 2600K with this cooler?

only real complaint I have is why are the adhesive pads for the backplate double sided instead of single? I don't like glue on my motherboard...









edit: did I use the right screws in the right places? (H) mount the block/pump right? and (I) mount the fan/rad? the screws in pic 7 have me confused...


----------



## Narsil

Hi all,
I am considering the 920, but have a few questions....

- Can it be used _without_ installing the software ? (Don't care about noise control or the LED, just want great cooling. Full-blast is okay---since I'd use different fans likely on a fan controller.)

- Does the fan(s) _have_ to be plugged into the pump ? (Or can the pump just run off the motherboard fan header and have the fans plugged elsewhere.)

I guess what I'm essentially asking is....can the 920 be hooked-up identically to the Corsair H70 ?
Thanks !!


----------



## Phos

You can plug the fans in wherever. The cooler won't spaz out.

And the washers don't go between the fan and radiator. They go between the screw head and case.


----------



## Narsil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos;13401627*
> You can plug the fans in wherever. The cooler won't spaz out.


Thanks. I am actually more concerned about the _pump_ acting weird. I don't want to use the software at all...just want the pump to run at 100% all the time. I am assuming that plugging it into a mobo power header will let me ensure that through BIOS settings.
As long as the pump is okay with doing it that way (and without ever touching the software) I'll think I'll be trying the 920 for my new rig.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phos;13401627*
> And the washers don't go between the fan and radiator. They go between the screw head and case.


thanks, can anyone confirm this? I seem to be getting lower temps like this but just wanted to double check...


----------



## fishhawk

Here are the specs on the Antec fan that comes with the 620 and the type of thermal paste on the cold plate. Got all specs straight from Antec.

Fan for 620

Bearing Type: Sleeve

Rated Volt: 12.0V

Rated Speed: 2,000rpm +/-10%

Max. Air Flow: 81.32 CFM

Max. Static Air Pressure: 3.394 mm-H2O

Noise Level: 27.36 dBA (Max.)

Shin-Etsu/x-23-7868-2d

All great stuff.


----------



## BaronOvHell

Just finished the install, not too impressed by the fans, but I didn't realize the controller was based on PWM so I can't use my typhoons. Also the little plastic pieces that push in to the ring all cracked when screwing in the pump (I've installed a few h50/70s and never had that happen.)

Going to play around with overclocking now ;D


----------



## calvinbui

? You can't use gentle typhoons, WHYYYYYYYY!!!!!!!!


----------



## BaronOvHell

You could, they would just have to be connected to the mobo or another source, the pump and associated software controller work with PWM only it appears


----------



## calvinbui

i bought 2 AP-15s just for this, ****


----------



## tfoss

Has anyone out there gauged the flatness of the 620/920's copper coldplate? How does it compare to the H50/H70 plates (besides the obviously smoother finish on the 620/920s: good job on that Antec!! Nice to see).

And, has anyone lapped the base of these units and seen any performance improvement?

Just wondering; got my 920 last week and too busy at work to install it: going to try this weekend.

tfoss


----------



## fishhawk

The cold plates are machined very well,and i got very good temps befor i lapped mine. it is a 3rd gen product-corsairs are all 2cnd gen. And all reveiws if you read them prove that the antecs are better-even the 620 against the h70 comes with in 1-2c,but read carefully-the h70 is tested stock so is the 620-2 fans on the h70,1 on the 620. And i lap all my cpu,s and heatsinks, yes i got about 3c better after my lap job.


----------



## Narsil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BaronOvHell*


You could, they would just have to be connected to the mobo or another source, the pump and associated software controller work with PWM only it appears


 Yeah, I have actually just opened a Ticket with Antec Support to ask about this. I'd like it confirmed from them before I spend my money on the 920. I can't imagine why it wouldn't be doable to just hook it up like a H70 (no software install, no USB needed, just a pair of Gentle Typhoons powered by a seperate source, and the pump plugged into a mobo header running at 100%.)

If anyone here has every tried the 920 this way, I'd love to hear how it worked for you.


----------



## fishhawk

Never tried it-but yes it will work. why would it not-i dont even use the fan header on the antec 620 pump-it is unused-just plug the pump header into the cpu header on my mobo-so it reads pump speed.


----------



## Narsil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fishhawk*


And all reveiws if you read them prove that the antecs are better-even the 620 against the h70 comes with in 1-2c,but read carefully-the h70 is tested stock so is the 620-2 fans on the h70,1 on the 620.


 Yes, this is something that always stuck out to me when reading the first reviews of the Antecs. 
Anyone know of any reviews and/or user tests where the units were compared while using _identical_ fans ? (Would be interesting to take the fans out of the equation, and just compare the differences from the 3rd Gen vs 2nd Gen plate,pump,hoses,etc.)


----------



## fishhawk

Why-when a antec with only one fan can come with in 1-2c of corsairs best useing 2 fans. Besides just look up the specs on the fans if you want that info. Page back 1 and you will see i have posted the specs of the antec fan for the 620-plus antecs coolers have the exact same tim as corsairs also-i posted that too. And as far as hoses-antecs beat corsairs completely-plus you get a 3 year warrenty over a 1 year from corsair. And ofcource price too-antec 620 69.99 free shipping-i see no reason to even bother with corsair unless they update there products or cut the price by a third.


----------



## Narsil

Sorry, I see what ya mean with the 620 vs. the H70. I should have been clearer. 
I was meaning putting 2 identical fans on the *920* and then also on the H70, and seeing how it does.
(Not overly impressed with the noise output some reviewers have found with the 920 fans at max power.) I'm mainly thinking if something like a pair of Gentle Typhoons 1850's would be a nice setup on the 920 ?


----------



## ejams

Hey guys. Been looking at these since they came out and may finally splurge to buy them.

I currently have the Zalman 9700 and it is pretty loud even while undervolted and stock speeds and on silent settings... *How quiet is the Kuhler 620??*
~$59 is not bad if this will whoop my zalman and be quieter.

Plus I don't like to have a pound+ of metal hanging off my mobo.


----------



## BaronOvHell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Narsil*


Sorry, I see what ya mean with the 620 vs. the H70. I should have been clearer. 
I was meaning putting 2 identical fans on the *920* and then also on the H70, and seeing how it does.
(Not overly impressed with the noise output some reviewers have found with the 920 fans at max power.) I'm mainly thinking if something like a pair of Gentle Typhoons 1850's would be a nice setup on the 920 ?


At full speed it is the loudest computer component I've ever owned, easily.

I wish I could post more impressions (especially on overclocking and stress testing), but somewhere along the process of installing the Kuhler and a Scythe fan controller I must have damaged the PCI-E slot I use for my second vid card. Once I had the case all back together and ready to go BIOS kept reporting the card wasn't present (I swapped them around and the cards are fine), so off it goes to RMA land.


----------



## fishhawk

If your looking for specs on the 620 or how it performs or compares to any others-just page back 1 or 2 or 3 pages-i have been listing everything i can find on the 620 since that is the one i run, and i will say this, i have used a lot of coolers over the years-if you buy these you wont be disapointed. And yes all reveiws have said the 920 on highest speeds can get a bit noisey-but come on folks, its part of over clocking-and a choice you have too make.


----------



## imjusthere

I installed my kuhler, 920 but the software doesn't detect the usb connection, and there might be a wet leak, fans keep getting moist, but when I had my other mobo I had it oc'd at 4.3 ghz stably at 27-32c idle and 54-57 100% load.


----------



## For Victory

That sucks. I am going to install mine today hopefully, I am wary of running into leaks of any kind. Did anyone here with an MSI Big Bang Xpower have to bend their cpu power (8-pin) cable to fit the radiator and fans for a Kuhler 920? That's the biggest hurdle for me right now. Thanks.


----------



## fishhawk

With theses type of coolers yes on most mobos the 12v 8 pin connectors do pose a bit of a prob, same on my case when i had my 620 mounted on the rear of my case. but i mounted it in the top and got better temps any way-so prob pretty much solved,but some can not. Just becarefull on bending thoses pin connectors, if possible get an extension plug and run the connectors up behind your mobo and over the top if you have room between your right side case panel and ofcource a hole or slot above your mobo. You can make a better bend that way in the wires.


----------



## For Victory

The problem is that I was going to keep my 200mm top fan as the only source of exhaust. If I ran the Kuhler 920 in the top I wouldn't be able to exhaust as fast with the rear 120mm spot. Should I be looking for a new case, or is there yet another alternative?


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

i'v already ordered mine... 2-3weeks and i'll post screens here with my new Thermaltake V6 case


----------



## soth7676

I have a local MC with the 620 in stock... and I do have ap-15s I wish to do a push/pull config on.. so this setup is run by software..or can it be hardwired to run at 100% at all times...haven't seen the answer to this yet

Sent from my T-Mobile G2 using Tapatalk


----------



## fishhawk

The 620 is not run by software-the 920 does come with software. But it doesnt matter you can run all fans any way you want-on fan controlers-or just hook them up to the fan headers on the mobo-or straight to your power supply, you dont even have to use the fan connection that is on the 620, just plug the pump into the cpu pin connection on the mobo-works fine.

I dont use my fan connection on my 620 becuz i dont have too-more than enough connections in my system-that way i figure less power running through the pump houseing. I have 2 kaze 88cfm,s as my push pull.


----------



## pjnix07

Hey guys,

I picked up the 620 and I love it! I'm noticing some extra pump noise - somewhat of a clicking sound. From the looks of it based on responses from earlier in the thread, others are having this problem as well.

I've re-seated, gently shaken, and even re-positioned the cooler but I'm still getting this noise from the pump. Would it be best to take it back to where I purchased it (Micro Center), or contact Antec?

Thanks!


----------



## M3TAl

Hey, I'm about to install the 620 on Wednesday most likely. What do you guys suggest for case fan setup if I'm gunna run the 620 radiator as rear *intake*?

I've attached my current fan setup.

After installing the 620 I was also thinking about putting my current rear exhaust fan as a 2nd front intake. What you guys think?


----------



## corhen

quick background, my old motherboard died about a month and a half ago, just got my new computer running last night... and i just nearly fried it

i noticed about 3 days ago that when i installed the Antec H20 water cooler, i had the fan flipped around the wrong way, so that instead of 2 fans in my case, both pulling at the back, i had a fan sucking in fresh air in the back, and pushing it out about 4 inches away, poor cooling situation

Today i decided to fix that, i flipped that fan around, so i had air moving through my case better, and turned my computer on, and i was getting beep codes, and no display...
After swearing at it for a good 15 minutes, i realized that i had my monitor plugged into the wrong DVI port. feeling sheepish, i corrected that, and was awarded with my moniter coming alive. however the trials and Tribulations were not done yet.

once windows loaded, i found another problem, my USB devices wern't working, i had to unplug and re plug them in several times before i could type or move my mouse. clearly something was still wrong, as everything moved at a glacial pace. i was getting a little scared at this point, and then i entered the BIOS

First thing i noticed that everything was going REALLY slowly, so slowly that in fact you could see the screen refreshes, and the mouse jumped around the screen. i started to poke around the BIOS and knoticed that it was reporting that my CPU was at 97 degrees celcius!!!

for some reason, when i flipped the fan around, the fan stopped working! i slammed off the computer, ran to my parents computer, and tried the fan there, where it worked.

i took it back, and held the fan to the heat sink, and turned it back on, immediately i noticed a rush of hot air coming from it, and then the air cooled down to a reasonable temperature.

i screwed everything back on, and turned on the computer. now that the CPU wasn't near 100 degrees, it ran fine!

the moral of this story? check that the fan is spinning on your CPU cooler whenever you do anything to it.


----------



## corhen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjnix07*


Hey guys,

I picked up the 620 and I love it! I'm noticing some extra pump noise - somewhat of a clicking sound. From the looks of it based on responses from earlier in the thread, others are having this problem as well.

I've re-seated, gently shaken, and even re-positioned the cooler but I'm still getting this noise from the pump. Would it be best to take it back to where I purchased it (Micro Center), or contact Antec?

Thanks!


when in doubt... mail antec!

i have found that they are REALLY good with their RMA's, if it comes to that, and every time i phoned them, i got put strait through to a human within 10 seconds of phoning them!

good luck with the problem


----------



## psycow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *pjnix07*


Hey guys,

I picked up the 620 and I love it! I'm noticing some extra pump noise - somewhat of a clicking sound. From the looks of it based on responses from earlier in the thread, others are having this problem as well.

I've re-seated, gently shaken, and even re-positioned the cooler but I'm still getting this noise from the pump. Would it be best to take it back to where I purchased it (Micro Center), or contact Antec?

Thanks!


I have the same problem, and have now waited for a responds from antec for over a week.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Mine clicked at first but it went away within 20 minutes or less.


----------



## Dynomutt

mine did make a little noise at first (clicking a little like a HDD) which had be worried but after giving the rad a shake and tightening up the mounts a little more it went away and has operated completley silent ever since


----------



## fishhawk

Yes-i did have a clicking sound also with mine that bothered me, but it did go away after a couple days.I preodered mine and have had it since march. I do like it alot. if you want to know what tim is on the cold plate and specs on the fan, look back a couple pages i listed it, both are great.

Fyi-best temps i got were going through the top of my case-dropped mine 2c from the back. aslso lapped my cold plate and cpu, gained another 2c and cools faster and temps remain more stable.


----------



## psycow

Mine isnt going away, Ive had it for two weeks now, Ive pulled the whole unit out, re-instelled it, and its still clicking so theres something wrong with it.

The one on my second rig, is super sillent and its a good product, would just like some faster responds from Antec, but maybe its because I live in Europe


----------



## pjnix07

I may just take the thing back to Micro Center and see if I can exchange it...I'm honestly a bit too impatient to deal with the RMA process right now.


----------



## corhen

phone them, dont email them, when i emailed i took 2 days to get a response, when i phoned, i was talking to tech support in no time


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl;13449508*
> Hey, I'm about to install the 620 on Wednesday most likely. What do you guys suggest for case fan setup if I'm gunna run the 620 radiator as rear *intake*?
> 
> I've attached my current fan setup.
> 
> After installing the 620 I was also thinking about putting my current rear exhaust fan as a 2nd front intake. What you guys think?


Any suggestions on case fan setup with 620 as rear intake???


----------



## fishhawk

You can try that way-but ift did nothing for my set up-got better temps pushhing out of case in the rear, but my best temps are with my 620 mounted in the top of my case blowing out. And most corsair users say the same thing-out not in.


----------



## corhen

im thinking of replaceing all the three fans in my case with these bad boys Noctua NF-P14FLX 140MM Ultra Quiet Cooling, but as these are 140 mm fans, should i try to seal them to the heat sink? i was thinking i could use tape to make sure that all the air is forced through the heat sink.

What do you guys think of that? good idea or bad?


----------



## M3TAl

That just doesn't seem right to me... Intake should lower cpu temp but raise case/other component temps a little because the air going into the radiator would be cooler but the hot air coming out the radiator goes in the case. This is illustrated on the Antec Blog: http://blog.antec.com/cooling/asetek-air-flow-matters/

But I can easily test both and probably will... I'm just looking for suggestions on what you guys think would be the optimal setup for case airflow...


----------



## fishhawk

Yes thats perfect-i always tell peeps to try anyway possible for them, like ocing a system, one way may not work for the next, i have tried everyway possible and like i said in mine top mounting so air exits, i get the best, plus read others who have tried with even the corsairs. Also depends on how cool you keep temps inside your system, mine stays very cool. There for air inside is just about room temp any way, plus-think about this on a hot day and you stand infront of a fan, even though its 90 out, you much cooler infront of the fan, the force of air has a big part in cooling. Hence, static pressure.


----------



## pjnix07

I'm very disappointed in Antec's customer support.

I spent the past 2 days talking with their RMA and Technical Support departments to try to resolve this issue. I've even sent them a video of my 620 with it's problematic clicking. After speaking to them today, they're telling me to take it back to where I bought it from (Micro Center) and if THAT unit clicks, contact them again and open up an RMA. From there I would have to send it into them, where it would be inspected, then possibly replaced.

They've apparently 'never heard of this issue before', and when I brought up the fact that it is a very common topic online, they flat out ignored me.

At this point I'm going to go back to Micro Center and exchange it for an H60. I'm tired of being made out to look like an idiot for having this problem, and being lied to about it being a freak issue. I'm very disappointed in Antec right now...


----------



## BaronOvHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjnix07;13467423*
> I'm very disappointed in Antec's customer support.
> 
> I spent the past 2 days talking with their RMA and Technical Support departments to try to resolve this issue. I've even sent them a video of my 620 with it's problematic clicking. After speaking to them today, they're telling me to take it back to where I bought it from (Micro Center) and if THAT unit clicks, contact them again and open up an RMA. From there I would have to send it into them, where it would be inspected, then possibly replaced.
> 
> They've apparently 'never heard of this issue before', and when I brought up the fact that it is a very common topic online, they flat out ignored me.
> 
> At this point I'm going to go back to Micro Center and exchange it for an H60. I'm tired of being made out to look like an idiot for having this problem, and being lied to about it being a freak issue. I'm very disappointed in Antec right now...


I only ran my 920 briefly, but my new mobo comes today so I'll have to see if I have the same problem. I'm also finishing up an mATX build using the 620, I'll listen carefully to it.


----------



## psycow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pjnix07;13467423*
> I'm very disappointed in Antec's customer support.
> 
> I spent the past 2 days talking with their RMA and Technical Support departments to try to resolve this issue. I've even sent them a video of my 620 with it's problematic clicking. After speaking to them today, they're telling me to take it back to where I bought it from (Micro Center) and if THAT unit clicks, contact them again and open up an RMA. From there I would have to send it into them, where it would be inspected, then possibly replaced.
> 
> They've apparently 'never heard of this issue before', and when I brought up the fact that it is a very common topic online, they flat out ignored me.
> 
> At this point I'm going to go back to Micro Center and exchange it for an H60. I'm tired of being made out to look like an idiot for having this problem, and being lied to about it being a freak issue. I'm very disappointed in Antec right now...


Sounds exactly like my expiriance with Antec support(they also asked me for a video).


----------



## fishhawk

Well-i,m realy sorry you are haveing probs with antec, i have always had great support from them in the past-and even with all the info i have reqested from them on the 620 and 920 they have been very quick, even the specs on the tim i called them on-the tech on the phone emailed it to me as we talked.

But yes if you have a noise that is heard over your fans in your case that is quite loud, but remember that is a pump -moveing parts,i have yet to find a pump %100 silent. Mine clicked at first than after about 20hrs, not a sound.


----------



## psycow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *fishhawk*


Well-i,m realy sorry you are haveing probs with antec, i have always had great support from them in the past


I do not doute that Antec has great products, I know they do which is also why I bought a 620, I just find their customer service lacking and disapointing.

I will get my 620 replaced(might even try to hear if I can get it upgraded to a 920), and Ill be happy again, but I doute I will ever contect Antec directly anymore.


----------



## pjnix07

Still hearing a lot of clicking. I'll run my computer through the night to see if this doesn't expedite the pump self correcting itself. If it's not fixed by the morning I'll be taking it back to Micro Center...


----------



## calvinbui

got the 920 today, used 2 GT AP15s on it. Prime 95 load temp on my 955 was only 39C!!!!


----------



## fishhawk

I have been building computers for a few years, as a hobby but sell them as well, most are high end systems all AMD based, One thing i started to do if i have a prob and get slow responces through email, is call the company, and make sure befor we hang up i have a case file and case number started. But i do admit some companys take for ever to respond to an email. And at the most i give companys to respond is 24-48hrs after that i email them again or call them saying hey i realy need some help here whats going on.

calvinbui--great temps with that 920 plus 955be, what settings you have.

As for the clicking sound, it could also be an air pocket trapped in the pump. That does happen with all water pumps at times.


----------



## calvinbui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13476559*
> calvinbui--great temps with that 920 plus 955be, what settings you have.
> 
> As for the clicking sound, it could also be an air pocket trapped in the pump. That does happen with all water pumps at times.


stock clocks with a .75 decrease in voltage.

My pump is making noises too, the loudest in my system. the GT's are quiet enough. I hope it shuts up soon


----------



## fishhawk

nice!!! Did you try the unit out useing the stock fans came with it? They are realy great fans, lots of cfm,s and great static pressure.


----------



## calvinbui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13476604*
> nice!!! Did you try the unit out useing the stock fans came with it? They are realy great fans, lots of cfm,s and great static pressure.


no i haven't but i may later. I can't control the fan speed and pump speed it seems while using GTs. The pump keeps booming out at 2400rpm even on silent

EDIT: It looks like you can only control the fan speed in Chill Control V unless i overlooked something. It would be much better to control the pump


----------



## fishhawk

Pump speed you shouldnt need to control, fan speed how ever you should beable too. I did read another post someone else was haveing probs with the 920 useing gt,s. I dont know enough on Antecs set up or software on there 920 yet. But i will soon and will post what i find out.


----------



## calvinbui

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13477583*
> Pump speed you shouldnt need to control, fan speed how ever you should beable too. I did read another post someone else was haveing probs with the 920 useing gt,s. I dont know enough on Antecs set up or software on there 920 yet. But i will soon and will post what i find out.


yeah fan speed is controllable but pump isn't. I tried the antec fans and i think they were faulty or just completely crap cause they didnt spin without a little push and didnt show any readings in ChillControl V. Mine are probably just faulty but who cares.

Pump is still clicking, i'll give it 3 days before i call/email someone


----------



## fishhawk

I would send the fans back and get replacements. But remember thoses are PWM fans. And the software is made for pwm fans. Try hooking the fans up to a 4 pin molex connector and see if they run full speed. Just too see if they are working. Any way-i,m guessing becuz of the way the software is made around pwm fans, you may not beable to use the software with non pwm fans to control them. You dont need or want to control the pump.


----------



## gorb

Got a Kuhler 920 in the mail yesterday, but it won't be installed until I get a new case :/


----------



## CarMelo88

Hi guys i have the Antec 620 cooler as well.. I have a AMD X4 955 3.2Ghz and it idles at 33c - 35c. Is that normal cuz my stock heatsink did that. I aslo tryed it upside down and still no difference. I even put 2x fans on it still not really a change. I just got the cooler 3 days ago..

My current build: http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z335/moneymaker882/DSC02049.jpg http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z335/moneymaker882/DSC02047.jpg

I Contacted Antec and they said.... "Please make sure that the fan control feature on your motherboard is turned off. This is so that the pump receives full voltage from the motherboard."


----------



## BernS

Do the gurus present know if _any_ aftermarket thermal compound performs better than the stock(but quality) shin-etsu on the 920?

So far I haven't been able to find any definitive proof, just opinions.


----------



## fishhawk

First as far as idle temps, i would say that could be a bit high, 33c mmm not bad, 35c bit high. But the real test in a cooler is not at all in idle temps, it is under full load that matters. And yes if plugged into your mobo DO NOT have any fan speed control enabled or on auto disable them, you want your pump running full. As far as a push pull that is the best way, but it also depends on what fans you are useing and whether you are useing it as sucking air in the case or out, i always set theses up as blowing out, if you have a top 120 vent in your case try that-that is were i get my best temps.

As far as the tim that is preapplied to the cold plate-it is some of the best there is, so if your getting good temps and are ok with it, no reason to change it,remember it may be some of the best there is but, how it is applied can ALWAYS make a big difference no matter how good it is.

I still use AS5, but there are about 4 others that get as good and maybe 1-2c better includeing the shin-etsu,mx-3 or 4 is great too.

I always clean the surfaces very well and let dry for about 15-20 minutes, then i tint the CPU and tint the heat sink, than apply a very small rice grain size dot to the middle of the cpu. I never use what is preapplied, but that is just me.

BY the way i always lap both cpu and cold plate also.


----------



## CarMelo88

Okay so I want my Antec pump running off my mobo right? What if i have it running of my PSU will it give it more power or no?

I also went for 4.0ghz last night but 21min into my CPU stress test it errored is that my Ram? I have 8gb Gskill at 1333Mhz

My CPU is at 200 - 20 for my 4.0Ghz and its at 1.520 V is that safe?


----------



## fishhawk

You can plug it into your mobo yes-just dont have any fan speed controls on in your bios or else were. And no it will not run faster hooked up straight to your psu-but you can if you wish. And unless you list your system specs no one can help.


----------



## CarMelo88

Sry bout that...

PC specs:

AMD X4 955 3.2Ghz

8gb Gskill 1333mhz

HD 6850

Asus 880g Motherboard

Corsair 600Wat PSU

Im trying to get 4.0Ghz and if that works stable ill shoot for 4.1Ghz +


----------



## fishhawk

Depends what 955 it is c2 or c3 stepping-if its new i,m sure it is c3, but still, you may not hit 4.0 stable, my 955be is 3.9 cant get it too 4.0 stable, heat is an issue,but still some just wont. If you look at my second rig i have listed in my profile you will see it.

Also -need to know what bios settings you are trying, vcore-cpu/nb/dram/ht/nb/llc and so on.

Plus it is best to start out just trying to oc the cpu first nothing elae, get that to a stable point and with in heat limits. Try for like 3.8 first, run prime 95 for a few hours, 3-5-than go for 3.9 same thing 3-5 hrs, than 4.0 if it runs-run prime 95 for atleast 8-12hrs, i go for 24 once i have everything oc,ed.


----------



## CarMelo88

I have the 955 BE Quad core. Okay when i ran 4.0ghz last night my temps were GREAT! MAX temp of 54c. But it stopped cuz of a error while running LinX stress test.









Do you think its because i need my RAM at a high Clock speed?


----------



## BaronOvHell

Got the 960 installed, and I am underwhelmed. At first my temps were way too high, but cranking the screws until the plastic mounts shattered under pressure (won't that look nice in some close up shots :\) they went down. It seemed that no matter what I set the ramp up temperature to in the provided software it would just sit at 600rpms. Not very impressed, I think I'll string up some GTs on motherboard controlled headers and see how that works.


----------



## M3TAl

So i got my 620 installed last night. Quick noob question. How do you know when the pump is tightened down enough??? I was tightening in an X pattern but the screws never got any extra resistance and never became harder to turn. One of the screws made a popping sound and i guess it loosened up some? So i re-tightened it a little and left it.

Also my pump is making noises as well... But, its not constant. It will make noise for like 1min then stop. Then start again later. When I turned it on for the first time it was silent. All fan settings are disabled in BIOS.

Ran prime95 for about 15min. 3.45ghz 1.375v 46-48c on cores 52c on cpu/socket with side panel off.


----------



## BaronOvHell

I'll do a full GTs on motherboard push/pull vs antec fans via their software push/pull over the weekend and post results


----------



## CarMelo88

M3TAl: I also have the AMD X4 955 3.2Ghz along with the Antec Kuhler

Im trying to get 4.0ghz but MAN does it take a TON of Voltage!! it wont run stable at 1.5375 V!!









http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...2/DSC02077.jpg

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/...2/DSC02078.jpg


----------



## M3TAl

Nice setup! I haven't tried 4ghz cuz my mobo would probably fry at the moment. I might give it a go after I get some vrm cooling.


----------



## For Victory

How does the 920 stack up against a high end air cooler for an i7-950?


----------



## CarMelo88

For Victory: Well if your looking for the BEST cooling for the lowest cost the Noctua d14 is defiantly what you want you can OC that i7 950 4.0Ghz + without a sweat! But if you want something that does not take you a lot of room, and looks better then the Antec 920 is good. The Antec 920 are a little bit on the expensive side. They go for about $120 + and I think more like 100 bucks is the most i would pay for one.

http://www.overclock.net/water-cooli...tec-920-a.html


----------



## fishhawk

Put it this way-most all the reveiws that had the 920 and d14 in them, the 920 beat the d14 by a couple c, but at a noise cost., but for room and better air flow in case 920 is the one.

920 is 119.99 free shipping.


----------



## M3TAl

So I just tried to put my side panel on. No Go. The radiator is just barely in the way of my top side panel fan to where I can't slide the panel onto the case.

Looks like I'll be joining you in the top mounted club fish.


----------



## Narsil

Quote:



Originally Posted by *BaronOvHell*


I'll do a full GTs on motherboard push/pull vs antec fans via their software push/pull over the weekend and post results


 That's very cool ! I can't wait to read your results. I've been searching the Net for just that exact test, and not finding anything. 
I'm hoping the GT's don't lag much behind the stock Antec fans at their insane noise levels. 
I have a 920 in the mail to me, and I am also wanting to go with 2 GT-1850's instead of the Antec fans, so your test has _perfect_ timing !


----------



## calvinbui

stupid hdd click, so annoying


----------



## calvinbui

for those experiencing clicks and that, i think figured out how to stop it. Go into your motherboard settings and turn off system fan control, meaning your pump will be running at full speed. Go into windows and let it run at full speed for a while and you'll hear the clicks and pops slowly fade away until all you hear is the pump. I would suggest leaving it for a while before turning back to normal to see if it's gone, maybe 30mins to 1 hr. Note that your fans will also be blasting it at full speed.


----------



## vivithemage

Looks very similar to corsairs line.


----------



## BaronOvHell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Narsil*


That's very cool ! I can't wait to read your results. I've been searching the Net for just that exact test, and not finding anything. 
I'm hoping the GT's don't lag much behind the stock Antec fans at their insane noise levels. 
I have a 920 in the mail to me, and I am also wanting to go with 2 GT-1850's instead of the Antec fans, so your test has _perfect_ timing !










I'll do my best to have results Sunday or Monday, so check back.


----------



## M3TAl

My bios fan settings have been off since day one. My pump was making noises but not constantly. It was random... off and on.

I think its done making noises now... I haven't heard it in about a day now.


----------



## CarMelo88

Well guys Last night I OC to 4.0ghz 1.54 V and LinX stopped upon error about 3 hours into it.
















I have a Asus 800g and 8gb of 1333Mgz G skill at 1.65 V!

Any suggestions on why its doing the error? i did not get the BSOD.. that's good









Also my ram is 100% fine i ran Mem - test so both sticks are good.


----------



## M3TAl

What is NB speed and volts?


----------



## skyline_king88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *phrossbyte;13155759*
> Antec recommends that you disable any kind of dynamic fan control. I tried it on mine, in my BIOS its called Qfan, it was set to Silent, after disabling it the problem was still there.


hey i am looking to by one but want to know the temps for amd i got the 955be c3 at 4.. thanks


----------



## CarMelo88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl;13495484*
> What is NB speed and volts?


My NB is set to Auto and the V is 1.1 I believe


----------



## M3TAl

So when ur at 4ghz NB is at 2000mhz? So ur FSB is at 200 or ur FSB is higher but the NB multi is lowered?


----------



## M3TAl

I just tried mounting the rad and fan on top of my case. Was a no go. Tried on both top fan mounts...

I ended up ghetto riggin the rad and fan at the front of my case as intake. My temps are better than when it was running intake from the back.

20min of prime cpu core max 46c. Old setup hit 48c in like 10min.


----------



## CarMelo88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl;13497785*
> I just tried mounting the rad and fan on top of my case. Was a no go. Tried on both top fan mounts...
> 
> I ended up ghetto riggin the rad and fan at the front of my case as intake. My temps are better than when it was running intake from the back.
> 
> 20min of prime cpu core max 46c. Old setup hit 48c in like 10min.


Very Nice!


----------



## HOTDOGS

I'm in! But how do I mount the hoses? Top or bottom?


----------



## CarMelo88

I have the 620 Cooler and im idling at 35c is that good?


----------



## calvinbui

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CarMelo88*


I have the 620 Cooler and im idling at 35c is that good?


it depends on your room temp. its winter here in australia and i get 30 idle on my 920. If i open the window, i idle at 13


----------



## grassh0ppa

The antec unit idles high, but at load stays very low in my experience. Right now I'm idling at 20-27 between cores... one core seems to have much lower temps for some reason. load temps hover around 50 @ 4.5ghz, but I am not stable yet. gonna fix that now.

Also, I wanted to report that I am experiencing lower temps with the fans acting as exhaust. Right now I have 3 intake fans 2 exhaust. although I think the total CFM for exhaust is higher.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CarMelo88*


I have the 620 Cooler and im idling at 35c is that good?


Depends on ur clocks and voltage too. My ambient temp is prolly around 26-27c.


----------



## CarMelo88

Ya, mine idles pretty high, On my AMD X4 955 3.2Ghz im iteling around 32c 35c.

My room temp could be 5 - 7c lower though. I can get 4.0Ghz Stable for about 3 hours under 100% load, but after that my ram errors i think, cuz LinX stops upon a error message.

Im also going to buy some really Nice thermal paste sometime next week, and maybe a Second fan on my Radiator.


----------



## fishhawk

Just fyi, you will get most likely better temps always with the right push pull set up,plus exhausting your air through your rad almost always gives better temps, but remember static pressure can be a bigger plus over higher cfms when used on a cooler. The 620 and 920 have very good fans with great cfms and static pressure. But so do a lot of other fans, right now i,m useing 2 110 cfm kaze fans on my 620, but i realy didnt notice any big temp change from useing 2 88cfm kaze fans.

my sig rig has 22c idle case and 28-29c idle cpu with 54c full load, but all that verys from system to system. You can only use others as a thought on how to set up your own. I also have 10 fans in my dragon rider includeing the 2 on my cooler, so thats why i always say other rigs can not be used to clone unless you know every thing about them.


----------



## damric

I've been mulling over whether to get the 920, or just do my own cpu loop. Either way it will be with a thick 120mm radiator. I had the H50 before but I saturated it with heat within a couple minutes of full load, due to small radiator and no reservoir (not enough water in the system). Will this 920 be able to cool a heavily overclocked hexacore? I like a lot of features on the 920, especially the software looks appealing, and it will still be much cheaper than the custom loop I would build myself.


----------



## CarMelo88

Okay just got done with 3.7GHZ My MAX temp was 47c while running LinX for 30min. Im at 1.44 V i might go lower...

I will run it for 12 hours when I go to bed.


----------



## k_ozz

Awaiting my 920 in the mail. Thinking about swapping the fans with these http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=2&id=57&tab=2

Thoughts?

Thanks,

K


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k_ozz;13509604*
> Awaiting my 920 in the mail. Thinking about swapping the fans with these http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=1&cid=2&id=57&tab=2
> 
> Thoughts?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> K


they actually seem pretty good, although since you're getting the 920 maybe you should hold off and see what kind of noise and performance you can get out of the stock fans or just get the extra fans and experiment.


----------



## mfranco702

I join the club:

Ok, I just wana know if my temps are normal, my cpu idles around 33-36 C and full load 65-68 C, thats playing games and doing some serious stuff, but when it comes to a stress test with prime95 i have reached 84 C, right now Im using dual fans both exhausting air outta the case, one of em is the original 3 speed that came with my antec nine hundred 2 in the rear, and the other one is a 3 speed antec that I bought, both have speed control switches and they are set to max, by the way im running my cpu at 4.8 ghz with 1.392V and my room temp is around 26 C

any advise would be appreciated!


----------



## CarMelo88

mfranco702: I have the Antec 620 as well, I idle around 32c -35c. My CPU is a AMD X4 955BE 3.2Ghz and OC to 3.7Ghz I ran LinX stress test and temps MAX out at 47c witch is NICE!

mfranco702 What CPU you got. Ya I don't like the idle temps but what ever it sure does a good job under load. This week im going to buy some Really good thermal paste and that should lower temps 2 - 3c Maybe. I also will buy a second fan.


----------



## fishhawk

I have posted a lot about the Antec coolers on here-but as far as the 920-it has bested the best air coolers and the h70 in most reveiws. It is at a noise cost though. And the fans that come with thoses coolers are very good fans-high cfms with very nice static pressure. Not saying others wouldnt work as well.

But theses like all coolers are not magical, temps will very from case to case depending on set up-case fans-cooler fans, were the cooler is placed, case temp and so on. Also type of tim used and how it is applied or even if you have lapped your cpu and cold plate.

One thing is certain though, in the 3 months of owning my 620 this is a very good cooler for the price. All one can do is try different set ups with the cooler and fans and how they are placed, it takes time to find the best salution. I just finaly got mine set to the best i can get on my new rig. But i rarley see useing someone elses exact set up to work for others but, too use them as starting points is a great thing and can speed up the end results.

So reguardless of others, you have a nice cooler,and for the range it sits in you cant do any better.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


I'm in! But how do I mount the hoses? Top or bottom?


I think it doesn't matter for these systems, just personal preference (I like the sticker facing the bottom of my case so have the hoses on top...).


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CarMelo88*


mfranco702: I have the Antec 620 as well, I idle around 32c -35c. My CPU is a AMD X4 955BE 3.2Ghz and OC to 3.7Ghz I ran LinX stress test and temps MAX out at 47c witch is NICE!

mfranco702 What CPU you got. Ya I don't like the idle temps but what ever it sure does a good job under load. This week im going to buy some Really good thermal paste and that should lower temps 2 - 3c Maybe. I also will buy a second fan.


That is a good idea, you can use two fans to help cool down the radiator, those temps look good to me, but I must say that my old rig had a Phenom 940 BE overclocked at 3.6 GHz 1.44V and my temps were the same as yours, AMD chps run a lot cooler than Intel's mine never reached over 50 C under prime95 stress test and I was using a Zalman CNPS9900 Led wich makes me wonder if my old Zalman cooler is gona perform the same as this Antec Kuhler????

As for thermal paste I recommend Arctic silver 5 just dont put too much


----------



## fishhawk

Idle temps dont mean a thing as long as therer reasonable,full load temps are realy all that matter.


----------



## HOTDOGS

This runs out of the box right, you don't NEED to install any drivers? Only to monitor cooling correct?


----------



## For Victory

Correct, the software is only to control the fan curve I believe.

Also, what fans are people putting on these units after market? Or are the stock fans fine (if loud)? Thanks.


----------



## CarMelo88

Okay im not really picky with noise but the Antec stock fan on the kuhler 620 is NOT a low noise fan..

When under load is as loud or louder then my Stock AMD Cooler, and when idel its not loud but louder then it should be.


----------



## CarMelo88

Hey guys im buying 2x of these fans for my Antec 620 Cooler: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811999344

Also going to pick up some AS5 and I hope my temps drop 2c -5c..


----------



## Raephen

Hi guys,

Since last week I'm a proud owner of an Antec H2O 620 and I'm loving it.
Though, the chip I placed it on might be an odd one out in this thread (I haven't checked, so feel free to correct me if I'm wrong).
My cpu has a staggering tdp of.... ready? ... 35W.
I got a Core i3-2100T + Asrock H67M-ITX in my HTPC setup. The stock cooler was horrible, so I stuck an Artic Freezer 11 I had lying arround on it and that was wonderfull too, able to almost passively cool it with a bit of help from my 140 and 120 mm case fan in my Lian Li PC-Q08 itx cube. The only drawback: because of the placing of the cpu on the mobo, the wider-than-stock cooler prevented me from adding a GPU (I had a spare HD5450 lying arround). By rotating the cooler, that problem was taken care of. But the next one was my pico-psu. The system ran fine without the added GPU, but the added 19W on full load caused my system to keep rebooting.
Hmm... I guessed I needed a proper PSU. Didn't want the one in my desktop, since that was a noisy Recom. So I got a proper PSU: a Seasonic. Quiet, efficient and not even that exspensive. Just one drawback: I couldn't use my Artic Freezer anymore.








And that's where the 620 comes in. It's ideal: it let's me use the pciex16 slot and has enough clearance for a normal atx PSU to fit into my PC-Q08 case. And though the stock Antec cooler 'does' fit when if fit the fan/radiator in exhaust through the top it nearly fills the 2"-ish clearance I have between top of the case and PSU. And honestly? except on very low revs, I think it's noisy. So after some research, I got myself a Yate Loon, 20mm 1350rpm fan which arrived today and I'm so pleased! Much, much more quiet at the same performance.
The pump is running at 1200ish rpm, dunno how fast the Yate Loon is going.
Idle: 33C
Load after some in-place Prime95: never even breaks a sweat at 47C max.
I'll see about getting one or two picture up tomorrow -- it's a funny thing to see in such a small case. I haven't even got room to DO cable management!









Here's to a great and silent cooler!









-Raephen


----------



## M3TAl

The antec fan on my 620 makes some noise at full blast but not alot... My PII x4 955 stock hsf was definitely louder. That thing was high pitched running 4-5k rpm, very annoying.


----------



## Olepolecat

I just returned the Corsair H70 that I bought because it didn't function very well and ordered the Antec 620. Hopefully it fairs better.


----------



## fishhawk

For what the fan does on the 620 it is a great fan, and i dont think it is that loud at all-besides-if your going to oc and want some extreem clocks-the trade off is always noise-no such thing as a high oc that is quiet.


----------



## Raephen

Fishhawk, I agree with the idea that quiet computing and extreme overclocking are mutually exclusive.

Although, two of the most extreme overclocks I did in my short OCing time were passively cooled: an Atom 330 - from the stock 1,6 to 2,2 GHz - and a Sempron 140 - from 2,7 to 3,5 GHz with a minor Vcore tweak. Both these cpu's I cooled passively. The Atom with the massive Asus heatsink and the Sempron with a Slverstone NT06-E.

Those both served as my HTPC for a time and did well enough for casual games with the help of a silent, discrete gpu.

The first and fore most reason I got the Antec H2O 620 was because it takes up so little space on the cpu socket and, on my Asrock mobo, would allow me to install a gpu. Also, it wouldn't block and/or compete for air with an atx psu and because I was curious about watercooling. For about 15 euro's more than a Scythe Samurai ZZ which I *thought* would fit, I could get a H2O 620 which I've read raving reviews about.

OCing the Core i3-2100T isn't my plan and OCing a SB that's not a K-series isn't that productive. Though it more than suits it's purpose and even seems to outperform the Athlon II X2 250 in my main desktop in a lot of ways. (I'll blame that on the Hyperthreading and 3MB L3 cache in the 2,5 GHz Intel processor.) So I stuck my HD5750 in and yes, in a lot of ways it has even beter performance.

Ah well, enough of that... I promised you all some amusing pictures yesterday, so here they come:


----------



## CarMelo88

Okay This is 4.0Ghz and i cant get it to pass LinX







Im at 1.525 V My Ram is at 1.65 V and its set on Auto.

http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z335/moneymaker882/11111.jpg


----------



## giecsar

Hello everyone.

I'd like to buy the new Kuhler 920 but there is one thing I need to understand before I do that. I plan to replace the standard fans with some ultra-quiet fans. This raises two questions:
1) can I connect them to my fan controller? will the Kuhler refuse to start?
2) if I must connect them to the Kuhler, do they have to be PWM?

Thanks!


----------



## BaronOvHell

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *giecsar;13539549*
> Hello everyone.
> 
> I'd like to buy the new Kuhler 920 but there is one thing I need to understand before I do that. I plan to replace the standard fans with some ultra-quiet fans. This raises two questions:
> 1) can I connect them to my fan controller? will the Kuhler refuse to start?
> 2) if I must connect them to the Kuhler, do they have to be PWM?
> 
> Thanks!


1) No
2) Yes (to get fan control via the software, I am not sure if they will start or not though)


----------



## giecsar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BaronOvHell;13539704*
> 1) No
> 2) Yes (to get fan control via the software, I am not sure if they will start or not though)


No as in I can't connect them to the controller or no as in it won't refuse to start?


----------



## BaronOvHell

Quote:



Originally Posted by *giecsar*


No as in I can't connect them to the controller or no as in it won't refuse to start?


It will not refuse to start


----------



## M3TAl

Hey Raephen, what kind of beer is that in the 3rd pic?


----------



## Raephen

Hehe, I put the empty bottle in for refferene.
What kind, you ask? A cheap but good brand of regular 'pilsener' sold by a supermarket chain here in the NL. 'Baron Pils' it's called and close to half as cheap as an A brand like Heineken.

Don't think stores in the US sell it, though









Cheers!


----------



## k_ozz

Got my 920 in today and its running like a champ right now.

I appear to be idling about 43 which is a few C higher than before, later this week I am going to put some AS5 with 2 of these new fans

http://www.gelidsolutions.com/produc...=2&id=57&tab=2

Hopefully it will get a little cooler.

I will post a pict then.

K


----------



## AMDigger

Hey guys, Finally got my 620 in the mail today. i too noticed the noise coming from the pump








Other than that, i LOVE it! finally able to see my mobo.. my pll 965 idling at 28C, full load Prime95 only 47C!


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

I'v ordered my Antec 620...

I got a question, If stock fan is noisy, and i want to change it to a dual push/pull with Noctua NF-P12-1300

Will i have a perfm increase?


----------



## M3TAl

If you want I could take a recording of the antec fan on my 620 with a quality condenser microphone and upload it somewhere. I would disconnect as many case fans as I can and turn the rest to low on the fan controller to try and isolate the antec fan...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:



Originally Posted by *k_ozz*


Got my 920 in today and its running like a champ right now.

I appear to be idling about 43 which is a few C higher than before, later this week I am going to put some AS5 with 2 of these new fans

http://www.gelidsolutions.com/produc...=2&id=57&tab=2

Hopefully it will get a little cooler.

I will post a pict then.

K


 I wouldn't worry about the idle. Load temps is whats important. Is load better?


----------



## CarMelo88

Oh YA! I'm at 4.0ghz I ran Intel Burn test and it said it was stable at Maximum heat level.







Max temp was 48c - 50c









I'm loving my Antec 620.

For everyone that has one configure it to were its drawing cold air from out of the case then hitting the Radiator.

http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1825177


----------



## Talos77

For the people getting clicking or gurgling in the pump what orientation are you using for the pump? are the inlet/outlets at the top, bottom or sides? maybe the pump doesnt work well with a particular orientation? Just trying to find a common thread between them.


----------



## k_ozz

I got my gelid fans in today and installed them and its working as an exhaust setup right now.

http://www.gelidsolutions.com/produc...=2&id=57&tab=2

The temp at idle is a few C lower, at load I have not had a chance to test them yet. However with these fans I can put it to extreme setting and let them run its like night and day between the stock fans vs the gelid's

I am thinking about setting it up as an intake but am unsure about the whole static pressure, and what not. Plus I have to get a filter for the rear before tying this 
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/88...c_Chassis.html. 
If I switch to intake then this is how my fans would be what do you guys think.

All fans in my case except the 2 on my 920 are 120mm Antec True CoolsBlue LED's


----------



## machfelon

New Here...

And just joined the club.









Ordered an Antec h20 620 and they sent me a 920 by mistake. Ill make do.









Just waiting on EVGA to send my gpu and I'll start to put it all together. New build.


----------



## k_ozz

Ran Intel burn test on Maximum and the highest I got was 55c for my CPU, the water temp was a few C lower.

Edit: Tried bumping my multiplier to 18.5, but crashed when running Intel burn test again, probably going to have to bump up my vCore but I will try that later.


----------



## CarMelo88

Machfelon: You are one lucky Person!!


----------



## fishhawk

Remeber, all cases and fan set ups are different. It is realy hard to say one way or another works best.So manny things can make a difference. How manny case fans, how big the case, what type of fans, room temp, what type of tim used, how it is applied. so on. all one can do is try and try again with configuration of your case. But if you get your temps with in exceptable ranges depending on your over clock dont worry about the other guys temps

Besides, most people are honest about things on here but i do promise you some are not.Anyone can get a system to post and than show a validation and claim its there oc. But its far from stable.


----------



## k_ozz

Is it normal to show about a 5c difference between the water temp and a CPU temp monitoring program?


----------



## Talos77

I havent installed mine yet but i'm guessing the answer is yes. If the water wasn't cooler than the cpu then it wouldn't absorb heat from the cpu to cool it.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## k_ozz

Might try switching it to intake here in the next week or so, I am awaiting a filter for the back of my case prior to testing...


----------



## Talos77

Installed my 620 yesterday. Turns out I have the dreaded pump click. Rather annoying. Deciding whether to RMA or not atm.


----------



## phrossbyte

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Talos77*


Installed my 620 yesterday. Turns out I have the dreaded pump click. Rather annoying. Deciding whether to RMA or not atm.


Ahhhh that's a bummer. Join the club! I RMA'd my first. The replacement pump does it also, though not as much. Only about half the time. Antec support it great though I have to give them that. They are still working with me on a solution, if there is one.


----------



## Grobinov

I had a clicking pump too but then I just set the pump to run at 100% all the time and now it isnt clicking anymore. I control my fans via motherboard fan control so they arent running full blast all the time


----------



## phrossbyte

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Grobinov*


I had a clicking pump too but then I just set the pump to run at 100% all the time and now it isnt clicking anymore. I control my fans via motherboard fan control so they arent running full blast all the time










How did you adjust the pump speed?


----------



## Grobinov

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phrossbyte*


How did you adjust the pump speed?


You just plug the 3pin connector into any mobo fan header and disable fan control. It will run at 100% all the time but that means you loose automatic control for your fan. Thats why I pluged my fan into a separate mobo header (I didnt plug it into a pump header for the fan) and control the fan from there


----------



## phrossbyte

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Grobinov*


You just plug the 3pin connector into any mobo fan header and disable fan control. It will run at 100% all the time but that means you loose automatic control for your fan. Thats why I pluged my fan into a separate mobo header (I didnt plug it into a pump header for the fan) and control the fan from there


Any risk of damaging the pump?


----------



## Grobinov

Quote:



Originally Posted by *phrossbyte*


Any risk of damaging the pump?


Not really it was designed to run those rpms so I dont see any reason why it would die doing that speed...


----------



## kache

Hello, I need an information on the 920: what are the specifications of the radiator?
A friend of mine wants to buy an h70 or this one and use it with two scythe ap-31 fans, so he needs to know if the 920 radiator is any better than the h70 one.


----------



## fishhawk

Ok 2 things-and have been talked about a few times-1 the 620 will match the h70 with a second fan and the 920 does beat the h70, plus all antec have newer gen cold plate than corsair, plus better hoses, plus better warrenty. 2 ALWAYS let your pump run at full speed that is what they are made for not to control them, fans yes set them at any speed you like but not the pump.

Infact both antec pumps come close(1-2c) or beat every air cooler besides the corsair liquid coolers.

And infact the clicking som are getting is quite possibly from not letting the pump do its job and controling it-mine clicked for a day and was gone, but it u have a very silent computer and are not realying ocing it-u might hear a faint noise-not unlike any other pump out there.


----------



## Talos77

exactly how fast is full speed on the pump for the 620? Mine always spins @ ~1300rpm.

It doesnt do the click all the time but it does it about 50% of the time.. I'm now contemplating ordering a 920 to replace it and selling off the 620. Hope the 920 comes without the clicking issue.


----------



## manooti

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Talos77*


exactly how fast is full speed on the pump for the 620? Mine always spins @ ~1300rpm.

It doesnt do the click all the time but it does it about 50% of the time.. I'm now contemplating ordering a 920 to replace it and selling off the 620. Hope the 920 comes without the clicking issue.



Try shaking the radiator to get the air bubbles out. I heard stories of air bubbles doing that. I installed 2 so far and they both did the rattling sound and one of them the sound went away but the other I tried the shake and all is well. They both make a rattle on a cold boot though so I'm thinking air pockets.

Try that first and see if it helps any.

The rpm on my machine is 1340-1360, sometimes 1400 but wont go over that. I have the CPU Fan disabled so that makes it run full speed, full 12v of power.

Another option is to get a molex to 3 pin 12v adapter and hook it up straight to the PSU.


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

What's the right Fan i can add to make a push/pull config?

They need to be at same speeds right?


----------



## manooti

Quote:



What's the right Fan i can add to make a push/pull config?

They need to be at same speeds right?



same speeds, air pressure, cfm.

get two of the same kind and use them in push pull. check each fan for a slight variance in speed, then use that one as push.

some say the faster as push and slower as pull, but i did slower push and faster pull. i dont know if there is any hard data of which one to do as push and then pull but im guessing it comes down to preference or trial and error. see which works for you.

regardless, check both fans and see which one is a little quicker/slower so you know how to adjust them for trial and error.


----------



## supersam

I wanted quiet fans and still keep temps low and I have it
super super quiet at 34 C idle
very easy to install I mean child's play for the little extra cash this is the way to go
had one MS Win7 Ultimate issue you would think .net would come with it.


----------



## Talos77

Well system has been running three days 24/7 now and when I got up this morning it seems the pump click has finally stopped. Took its time.

I have however ordered a 920 to replace this unit. Looking at the temps im getting on my i5-2500k @ 4.5ghz i think ill need the extra cooling power of the 920 during the long aussie summer. Every few degrees helps here.


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talos77;13611123*
> Well system has been running three days 24/7 now and when I got up this morning it seems the pump click has finally stopped. Took its time.
> 
> I have however ordered a 920 to replace this unit. Looking at the temps im getting on my i5-2500k @ 4.5ghz i think ill need the extra cooling power of the 920 during the long aussie summer. Every few degrees helps here.


What are ur temps at 4.5 ghz? I have the 2500K at 4.80 ghz and during prime test i reached 74C peak, wich means in the real world scenario is gona be way lower than that maybe 65C playing games and compressing files


----------



## Talos77

I was using OCCT and hitting 58 on one of my cores in 15deg ambient room temp. In summer it will hit 45 room temp which would see 88 deg core temps I guess.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Talos77*


I was using OCCT and hitting 58 on one of my cores in 15deg ambient room temp. In summer it will hit 45 room temp which would see 88 deg core temps I guess.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


with 45 room temp your dead.


----------



## Talos77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carlos Hilgert Ferrari;13621611*
> with 45 room temp your dead.


hehe.. yeah it only gets that high when I'm not home as we put the air-con on as soon as we are inside..

Put the 920 on last night.. runs about 8 deg cooler than the 620 which is a decent drop. I've got two AP-15's installed on it atm but will probably undervolt them a bit to reduce the noise so I'm thinking i'll end up back where i was with the 620 temp wise but be a lot quieter.

Oh and the 920 has no clicking which is nice also. Only problem is that it doesn't register as the pump spinning on the CPU fan header. I only know its spinning because of the Antec software where it says ~3000rpm.


----------



## manooti

With near summer temps in my room with all the electronics I'm hitting 85f ambient while its in the 60s outside. With 85 ambient I hit about 70c on cores with the 620 with push pull set up. With a/c it drops to about 5-10 degrees. This is with avx testing tho.

Too many variables but for me, 70 is too hot.
4.4ghz @1.33vcore

Don't hate me for saying this, but I'm thinking of getting the noctua d14 (motherland cooler).

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk


----------



## fishhawk

No hateing, but i think something is wrong,besides the 620 with 2 good fans pretty much matches the d14 in every reveiw. and my temps rock.


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13624227*
> No hateing, but i think something is wrong,besides the 620 with 2 good fans pretty much matches the d14 in every reveiw. and my temps rock.


I honestly have no idea. I've reseated multiple times and just gave up. Used MX-2, AS5 and IC Diamond 7. MX2 had to be the best to work with and very minimal amount of paste compared to the others. Anyway, I might just buy the 920 if i can sell a kidney.


----------



## fishhawk

Can you mount that in top of your case-i get my best temps when mounted in top. And i use as5-but the others you have are great tim also-but again my best temps on all my cpu,s is when i tint the cpu and cold plate, than just applie a very small rice grain size of tim to the middle of the cpu.


----------



## wayn01

Made some changes to my Antec Kuhler H2O 620
Changed from the original Antec fan to two Noctua NFP12 fans push/pull set as intake.
My temps. lowered but my case temperature and GPU (Gainwood GTX570 Phantom) temps. increased.
Then purchased two Coolermaster silent blue LED fans and set them up as exhaust.
I know the specs. look suspect on these fans but I thought I would give them a try.
My CPU and GPU temps. got lower by about 5-10c
I have now installed two Phobya Plexi shrouds and can't believe what a difference they make, plus they look good.
Ambient temps. 22c, idle temp 37c, load (using OCCT) 58c.
When I had the Noctua NH-U12P SE2 when tested using OCCT the cpu would hit 80c+.
Also my PC is not in the open but in a ventilated cupboard in my computer desk so my temps will be higher than normal.


----------



## fishhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wayn01;13629475*
> Made some changes to my Antec Kuhler H2O 620
> Changed from the original Antec fan to two Noctua NFP12 fans push/pull set as intake.
> My temps. lowered but my case temperature and GPU (Gainwood GTX570 Phantom) temps. increased.
> Then purchased two Coolermaster silent blue LED fans and set them up as exhaust.
> I know the specs. look suspect on these fans but I thought I would give them a try.
> My CPU and GPU temps. got lower by about 5-10c
> I have now installed two Phobya Plexi shrouds and can't believe what a difference they make, plus they look good.
> Ambient temps. 22c, idle temp 37c, load (using OCCT) 58c.
> When I had the Noctua NH-U12P SE2 when tested using OCCT the cpu would hit 80c+.
> Also my PC is not in the open but in a ventilated cupboard in my computer desk so my temps will be higher than normal.


Very nice, glad too see you are willing to try different things to acheive what your needs are. Just fyi for any others looking for push pull fans, i am useing the scythe kaze 120 cfm fans on mine with a fan controller, i have also used the 88cfm modles both work great and also make nice case fans. They are only about 7-9 dollars here in the u.s. For the money i dont beleive you can do better, i have a lot of fans theses fans price/performance/noise are a great choice.
But remember the ones that come with the Antec coolers are very good fans-high cfms and very nice static pressure...


----------



## McMarcus22

I'm impressed with this 920. I5 2500k @ 4.8 1.5v. 2x scythe slipstream high speed pwm fans, push pull exhaust,custom 30 ramp/45 full fan setting in the software. Average was around 69-70c, but did spike up to 75c once. I may try another run in silent mode just for comparison.


----------



## machfelon

Can someone help me out here? I just installed my new build with everything listed in signature. Asus BIOS starts up then says CPU fan failure. The Kuhler is getting power coz the LED lights are on but the two fans are not spinning. Says CPU temp is like 97C so I shut it down. What did I do wrong? How can I get the FANS to start up? I have not installed the software yet but was scared to at those temps.


----------



## McMarcus22

Try plugging one of the fans directly into another fan header. That should work until you install the software.


----------



## Talos77

I get the same thing with my 920. The CPU fan header doesn't pick up the pump speed but the software does (via the USB I'm guessing). I have my scythe fans connected directly to my psu though so they are always running.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *machfelon;13648467*
> Can someone help me out here? I just installed my new build with everything listed in signature. Asus BIOS starts up then says CPU fan failure. The Kuhler is getting power coz the LED lights are on but the two fans are not spinning. Says CPU temp is like 97C so I shut it down. What did I do wrong? How can I get the FANS to start up? I have not installed the software yet but was scared to at those temps.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talos77;13649846*
> I get the same thing with my 920. The CPU fan header doesn't pick up the pump speed but the software does (via the USB I'm guessing). I have my scythe fans connected directly to my psu though so they are always running.
> 
> Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


Make sure fans are connected to pump. Then connect plug to CPU Fan Header.
Y splitter to fans. Single to CPU Fan header.

Go to BIOS:

Disable CPU Smart Fan Control (runs maximum for full power. this is what its called on my board. might be different for yours. use common sense here.)

Disable CPU Fan Failure Warning ( so software can monitor it)

If youre not using the software then I would keep fan failure on, but then again whats the point of the 920 without the software?

If temps are too high again, Load Optimized Defaults and pray.


----------



## iamtwan

Add me to the club! I got both.

Been using the 620 on my back up rig for a bit now. Keeps my E8500 pretty cool @ 4GHz. (Will hopefully post a pic or two later.

After a good experience with the 620 I got a 920 for my i7. Working really well right and now and on par with my D14! I actually did the software and minor customizations you can make.

Only thing that sucked was having to remove the back top 200mm exhaust fan to get it to fit. I guess it wasnt exactly necessary anymore but still would have liked to have kept it.

Couple quick pics I snapped after initial install of the 920. Still have to get some updated pics with the new GPU stuff. Still using the stock Antec Push/Pull fans. They actually work pretty well.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Do I need to put the adhesive back pad on? How hard is it to remove if need be?


----------



## LC155

Hey guys, picked up a 920 yesterday and installed it.

And... I have that stupid dreaded clicking noise. Tried shaking it, ect. to see if I could get rid of it, but nothings working. Frustrating is not the word. Temps are good though, I think. I'm idling around 28-30c and max load barely hits 50c on a i5 2500k OC'd to 4.5Ghz on 1.280/90 (forgot exactly haha) volts. That is using the pre applied TIM btw. (I used IC diamond on a heatsink before but I discovered ICD has an abrasive quality and I was lucky to avoid not polishing off the markings on the CPU - won't be using again I don't think. Will probably just hit up AS5 at some point later on if it'll perform better than the stock TIM (I know the stock TIM is Shin Etsu and some of the best stuff out there, but they put way too much on it to the point where it doesn't work as good as it should, I think.)

Anyway, enough about that. The temps so far using stock TIM and 4.5ghz okay? Also, what should I do about that clicking noise? Bear in mind I live in Europe, so I'll try to get a hold of Antec, but I'm not sure if they're as generous as Antec US. I'd hate to RMA it and be left without a cooler for days. Also, paste. Hit up AS5 or is there something similar but superior? (I'm thinking MX?)

Thanks.


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:


> Do I need to put the adhesive back pad on? How hard is it to remove if need be?


No its just there to hold it in place while you put on the front bracket. Just have someone hold it in place while you start the screws.


----------



## CarMelo88

Hey guys I was here about 2 weeks ago with 4.0ghz, Its SWEET! although 4.1Ghz is a No go, im still working on it..

ill post some pics....


----------



## CarMelo88

So far with the Antec 620 I have a Sycthe Kaze ULTRA sucking fresh air on my Radiator.







Along with the second Antec fan blowing air in the case.


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*


Do I need to put the adhesive back pad on? How hard is it to remove if need be?


The adhesive pads are there to hold backplate in place but oh man, when you switch mother boards or something and need to remove the back plate beware! Stuck like super glue!! I actually had to pry off with a flat head screw driver as i would have broke my backplate or tore part of my mother board if i didnt.


----------



## Logical Error

ADD ME TO THE CLUB (Antec H2O 620), and to Overclock.net lol!

Ok I a problem, i think, and some questions

1. Box says fan speed is 1450-2000rpm, My ASROCK AXTU Tuning Utility shows my fan speed sitting around 1390rpm? Whats with that, where is my 2000 rpm to keep my rig cool? I read this whole thread and you guys talked about rpms a little but nothin anwsered my question, but one guy did say if your speed is at 1390-1400 its at 100%. Can someone Explain?

2. I idle around 34-35C, is that good? But my full load got up to 70C using prime95! Where is my 50C like everyone else? =( I got a Antec 900 Two V3, all fans maxed, and a push pull on the 620. My office is isnt really that hot so there is something going on here.

plz help! thanks!

ps, i did put artic silver all over the cpu when building my comp, i read on this thread that someone said dont put tooooo much, but how much is too much? I just covered the surface of my cpu, not just a little drop.


----------



## manooti

Everyone has to realize min/max temperatures depends on too many variables. For example, case air pressure, case temps, motherboard, nb, sb, cpu, ram voltages, gpu and AMBIENT temps. Dont forget CPU Batch number because not all cpus can overclock at same voltages.

I need at least 1.34vcore to be stable at 4.4ghz with AVX instruction set. Even with the lowest vcore I could use, the machine was running slower until I upped the vcore.

Without an accurate temperature reading of all of those the cpu min/max is not a good way to compare to everyone else.

Now with all the above mentioned ADD more variables with aftermarket fans for push/pull, fan air pressure, cfm, different TIM methods and brands, and the different ways of mounting the radiator and you have yourself a J.O.B.

Bottom line...


----------



## Logical Error

ok thats true about the temps, but if im running high 60's and most people are running low 50's, somethin is up, but ill live with it.

The only thing I guess I really have a question about is the fan speed. I only have 2 options in my bios, "full on" and "automatic". I kept it on default full on. With that being done, why is it not going over 1390 rpm?


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logical Error;13662573*
> ADD ME TO THE CLUB (Antec H2O 620), and to Overclock.net lol!
> 
> Ok I a problem, i think, and some questions
> 
> 1. Box says fan speed is 1450-2000rpm, My ASROCK AXTU Tuning Utility shows my fan speed sitting around 1390rpm? Whats with that, where is my 2000 rpm to keep my rig cool? I read this whole thread and you guys talked about rpms a little but nothin anwsered my question, but one guy did say if your speed is at 1390-1400 its at 100%. Can someone Explain?
> 
> 2. I idle around 34-35C, is that good? But my full load got up to 70C using prime95! Where is my 50C like everyone else? =( I got a Antec 900 Two V3, all fans maxed, and a push pull on the 620. My office is isnt really that hot so there is something going on here.
> 
> plz help! thanks!
> 
> ps, i did put artic silver all over the cpu when building my comp, i read on this thread that someone said dont put tooooo much, but how much is too much? I just covered the surface of my cpu, not just a little drop.


LOL sorry for laughing but yeah you already put too much thermal paste. AS5 and some other good brands need the smallest amount possible where it will cover the cores.

Too much is just as bad as too little. Too much will almost act as a barrier to thermal conduction. Too little and the thermal conduction wont even take place. Then you have to worry about air pockets depending on your method of use.

The way I always do it is a very tiny bead or bb in the middle of cpu. The PSI during clamp down will spread the TIM. Then the cycling of normal use of the computer will break in the TIM and allow for better temperatures as it spreads evenly.

For IC Diamond i needed a lot. A giant pea worth after some trial and error.

For you I would suggest reseating a few times.

Take off the pump.
Clean both Pump AND CPU! (lol some noobs dont clean after checking and just tighten it back down with massive air pockets)

Put a tiny BB in center of CPU. ( With AS5 or MX-2 you can spread a very very very thin layer on the pump's contact plate itself, you just want a light haze on the pumps plate. Then just a BB on the CPU)

Put on pump, twist while applying force. ( Twist a small amount, I do about 1/4" each way once)
Screw down with appropriate PSI.

NOW
UNDO EVERYTHING
Check your spread and if it looks good:
Clean pump and cpu and apply the same amount of paste and do everything as before, twist and clamp the sucker.

Then check TEMPS. If its too high reapply and find the right amount for your set up.

I check the spread this way and see which method works best for my set up by checking for air pockets and correct form. Also when you check your spread you want to be able to see the metal under it, eg IHS (intels cpu cover thats welded on the cores)

Like I said, not too much or too little. GL:thumb:


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logical Error;13662866*
> ok thats true about the temps, but if im running high 60's and most people are running low 50's, somethin is up, but ill live with it.
> 
> The only thing I guess I really have a question about is the fan speed. I only have 2 options in my bios, "full on" and "automatic". I kept it on default full on. With that being done, why is it not going over 1390 rpm?


Thats how mine runs. Its full speed and m in the 1300s for rpm. Lots of people I've seen reported the same. Should be fine as long as pump doesnt die.

If CPU shuts down then temps got too high because either fans stopped while doing something intensive, pump stopped or you kicked the power plug. Ive kicked the plug a few times and everything in my room turned off. Thought we were in another black out. I got everything in my room running off a belkin power strip because only 1 outlet has a ground


----------



## Logical Error

Thanks for the tips guys! Yeah I guess since its running at 1390rpm ill just leave it alone? As for the thermal paste, ill take it apart and reapply!

thanks!


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logical Error;13662938*
> Thanks for the tips guys! Yeah I guess since its running at 1390rpm ill just leave it alone? As for the thermal paste, ill take it apart and reapply!
> 
> thanks!


NP man. GL!

Also I just wanted to point out, people are reporting a mix of AVX and non AVX stress testing temps. Watch out for that so you know what you get into because AVX raises temps by a good mount. I gained minimum 5 degrees with AVX. Also requires higher vcore.

Without AVX I'm also hitting in the low 60s. I'm only at 4.4ghz tho


----------



## Logical Error

hhmm i dunno what AVX stands for, but im in the upper 60's when i run prime95, here is my system, soemthin could be wrong i dunno

intel 2600k OC to 4.0 no voltage change
antec 620!
8G DDR3 1600 8-8-8-24
ASRock extreme4 mobo
evga gtx570
antec 900 two v3
WD caviar black 500g (ssd soon to come)
antec 750W PS

I just dont see why im in the 70C area when stress testing, thought the antec 620 would bring me into the 50's


----------



## manooti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logical Error;13663575*
> hhmm i dunno what AVX stands for, but im in the upper 60's when i run prime95, here is my system, soemthin could be wrong i dunno
> 
> intel 2600k OC to 4.0 no voltage change
> antec 620!
> 8G DDR3 1600 8-8-8-24
> ASRock extreme4 mobo
> evga gtx570
> antec 900 two v3
> WD caviar black 500g (ssd soon to come)
> antec 750W PS
> 
> I just dont see why im in the 70C area when stress testing, thought the antec 620 would bring me into the 50's


Dont forget i7 has hyper threading. That alone is going to increase your temps.

I only used dual and quads so cant help you from experience on that. But from what I've been reading for an i7 it sounds about right.

AVX is Sandy Bridge instruction set. If you have SP1 installed download LinX with AVX and run that. Avx is on the SP1 update for Windows 7.

I do have an i7 laptop that hits 80+ degrees tho lol.


----------



## yunior

The 1390rpm is the pump speed and should be always full on. You can plug the included fan to a 3-pin board connector to change the rpm/voltage.


----------



## LC155

No one knows what to do about the clicking issue? I have the pump and fans plugged into the CPU_fan port, as the manual suggests. I checked in the BIOS (using a P67A-G45) and didn't see anything relating to fan control or something like that. Should I just keep the thing plugged into the PSU at all times? (Using non stock fans so don't think noise is going to be an issue)

I'll give it a shot later but what if it continues? Do antec usually send a new unit out before you send your one back so you don't have to be without a cooler?

Also, how about the paste question I asked on the last post? Thanks.


----------



## HOTDOGS

So I have the 620 plugged in to the CPU fan header and everything, but just in the UEFI menu it is at 96 F? Also I need to install the Antec software to turn on and change the LED colour correct?

Whats going on!?


----------



## yunior

The 620 doesn't have any software and no LED. Check if the pump is running you should feel some vibrations, the temperature seems to be normal to me.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yunior;13665869*
> The 620 doesn't have any software and no LED. Check if the pump is running you should feel some vibrations, the temperature seems to be normal to me.


Its running and setup as intake but I thought it would be much cooler, aren't those temperatures similar to the stock cooler?


----------



## Logical Error

HotDogs, yeah 97F would be about right for idle, thats about 36-37C. I idle about 34C, and no, there is no software or color LED on the 620.


----------



## Logical Error

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS;13666372*
> Its running and setup as intake but I thought it would be much cooler, aren't those temperatures similar to the stock cooler?


Thats kinda what I thought with mine. I never installed the stock cooler so i dont know what temps to expect from it, but I am around 70C when I run prime95


----------



## Logical Error

Just wanted to do an update:

took the cooler off and reapplied thermal paste, AS5. I had alot on there, cleaned everything off and did a drop and did a reseat. No change in temps.

Went to the store and bought another 120mm antec fan for the side of my case, pulling air in with it, no change.

So as of now I have a antec 900 Two V3, 2 120mm fans in the front pulling air in, and one 120mm fan on the side pulling air in, 1 200mm fan on top exhausting air, and 2 120mm fans in a push pull on the radiator of the 620 exhausting air. still no temp change.


----------



## tw33k

AS5 can take quite some time to cure. Therefore you won't see the benefits straight away


----------



## Tore

Hi guys

I just installed my system last night and I get very high idle temperature in bios. In idle I have 52C and that's on stock speed. My cooler is 920 and my cpu is 2600k. Voltage is 1.16v on the cpu. I have been running the system for 2 hours now.

I installed the radiator with one fan on each side blowing air the same way out of my chassis.

Is this normal?


----------



## McMarcus22

52c is way too high. Have you tried booting into windows and checking temps?


----------



## Tore

hmmm...in windows in AI suit II I now get 37C with cpu fan on 630 rpm. That's much lower than the bios temp...strange...

I'm trying get chillControll to work, there is some usb problems at the moment.


----------



## McMarcus22

Yeah I had to install the software then unplug USB and plug it back in. 37c sounds much better though.


----------



## Logical Error

Thinking about getting a new case, I currently have a Antec 900 two V3. Its a good case and i love it, but I am wanting a White NXT phantom. Can anyone tell me if the 620 or 920 will fit in the phantom and still keep the big fans on top, and still do a push pull out the back. If not, any ideas ok a cool ass loking case, thats roomy and easy to work with.

was thinking:
NXT phantom white
Lime Green Cooler master 690 NVIDIA edition?
I dunno, somethin sick


----------



## McMarcus22

I have the 690 advanced nvidia. The lime green is more of a pea green when you see it in person. The air flow isn't all that great either in my opinion. I've been eying the corsair 600t myself.


----------



## Logical Error

So you think the 69o advanced is "ok"? ill look at the 600t, but will the h2o 620 fit in that or the nxt phantom?


----------



## Quesoblanco

hey i just got one... what fans should i use? the stock ones or these.... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-090-_-Product ty


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quesoblanco*


hey i just got one... what fans should i use? the stock ones or these....


stock one(s) should be better than that, cooling wise anyway...


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:



So you think the 69o advanced is "ok"? ill look at the 600t, but will the h2o 620 fit in that or the nxt phantom?


It will fit the 600t. I'm pretty sure the top fan in the nzxt has to be moved forward for clearance. If you like the 690, replace the front fan, add 2x 120mm fans to the top and 1 or 2 on the floor of the case. The front fan is pretty weak.


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:



Originally Posted by *quesoblanco*


hey i just got one... what fans should i use? the stock ones or these.... http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...-090-_-Product ty


Don't use those r4 fans. They're way loud. I'm using 4 of them as case fans and I have to run them at half speed because of the noise.


----------



## Quesoblanco

Quote:



Originally Posted by *McMarcus22*


Don't use those r4 fans. They're way loud. I'm using 4 of them as case fans and I have to run them at half speed because of the noise.


they are 19db? lol i think ur getting em confused


----------



## McMarcus22

They're 19db @ 1000 rpm. If you run them full speed they're closer to 40db. I'm using those exact fans, same color. I use these on my 920
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11...25SL12H-P.html


----------



## Logical Error

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMarcus22;13681890*
> It will fit the 600t. I'm pretty sure the top fan in the nzxt has to be moved forward for clearance. If you like the 690, replace the front fan, add 2x 120mm fans to the top and 1 or 2 on the floor of the case. The front fan is pretty weak.


That is correct. The rear top fan must be moved for it to fit in the Phantom but will fit in the 600T. Oh man is the 600T looking like a sxy case! I JUST got a new antec 900 two v3 a week ago, lol and I already want the 600T, in white of course!


----------



## Logical Error

Just another update, Still dont know if its the H2O 620 or not but at 4.2Ghz, 1.297V on an i7 2600k running Prime 95, im staying at 69C-70C....This just seems alittle warm for the price I bought for the 620..dunno

Any thoughts?

antec900 two v3, all fans on high


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logical Error;13690300*
> Just another update, Still dont know if its the H2O 620 or not but at 4.2Ghz, 1.297V on an i7 2600k running Prime 95, im staying at 69C-70C....This just seems alittle warm for the price I bought for the 620..dunno
> 
> Any thoughts?
> 
> antec900 two v3, all fans on high


Seems a little high for that voltage Im running stable at 4.80 GHz 1.375V on an i5 2500K 67-75C after stress with prime, dual fans antec Tricool 2000 rpm push/pull
Now remember u have a 2600K and Hyperthreading makes ur cpu even hotter, u might have applied wrong the thermal compound or ur ambient temp is a little high, you should be getting lower temps with 1.297V


----------



## Logical Error

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702;13698847*
> Seems a little high for that voltage Im running stable at 4.80 GHz 1.375V on an i5 2500K 67-75C after stress with prime, dual fans antec Tricool 2000 rpm push/pull
> Now remember u have a 2600K and Hyperthreading makes ur cpu even hotter, u might have applied wrong the thermal compound or ur ambient temp is a little high, you should be getting lower temps with 1.297V


Well I used AS5 so i dunno, did a decent dab in the center and locked the antec 620 down.

Just bought a 600t white! woot!, but the temps are actually higher in this case!







So i dunno if im going to keep this case cause the temps went up a little bit. I did buy 2 CM Excaliber fans to help, but ill keep you guys posted..any advise?


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:


> Just bought a 600t white! woot!, but the temps are actually higher in this case! So i dunno if im going to keep this case cause the temps went up a little bit. I did buy 2 CM Excaliber fans to help, but ill keep you guys posted..any advise?


Have you tried the mesh side panel with 4 fans attached? That should give some nice airflow. I'm going to Microcenter this weekend to pick one up.


----------



## Logical Error

Dont want to put the mesh on =(

Was playing with cpu voltage and clocks and did prime at 4.2ghz at 1.192v and got up to 67C...***


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logical Error;13732248*
> Dont want to put the mesh on =(
> 
> Was playing with cpu voltage and clocks and did prime at 4.2ghz at 1.192v and got up to 67C...***


too hot for that voltage and clock speed, I would recommend to re seat the water block and apply thermal paste again, make sure u dont put too much just an almost pea size drop in the midle of the cpu, and not on the cooler, the pressure will spread the compound and when tightening do it in a "X" pattern to seat the cooler evenly.

Make sure as well to have the fans or fan exhausting the air out of the case
It would be nice if you upload a screenie of your temps under load with prime 95 and CPUZ to see ur voltage and temp ratio


----------



## adolf512

i think i will buy antec h2o 920 pretty soon. i have 2 questions:

1: lets say i set my own fan speed ramp in chillcontrol v, will it then last even if i unplug the usb cable?

2: will i be able to run the software on linux using wine or something like that?

i think the answear to both questins is yes. but i wan't to be sure before i spend 1000$+


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:



1: lets say i set my own fan speed ramp in chillcontrol v, will it then last even if i unplug the usb cable?


If you unplug the usb, fans run at full speed. Usb must be connected for the software to work.

Quote:



2: will i be able to run the software on linux using wine or something like that?


You will most likely have to email Antec on this one. There is no info on this anywhere.


----------



## MarvinDessica

Out of curiosity, what is Antecs stance on these? Is it like corsairs where if it leaks they'll replace the PC parts it fries?


----------



## CarMelo88

I have the Antec Khuler 620 with Dual fans... Scythe ULTRA kaze.







Also a AMD 955 X4 3.2Ghz with a Asus 880g

Quick Question. Im trying to hit 4.3Ghz and wondering if its Okay to go to 1.6 V if my temps are still pretty low?

I tired it last night with 1.6 V and 4.3Ghz and my Temps were MAX'ing around 47c - 48C


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CarMelo88*


I have the Antec Khuler 620 with Dual fans... Scythe ULTRA kaze.







Also a AMD 955 X4 3.2Ghz with a Asus 880g

Quick Question. Im trying to hit 4.3Ghz and wondering if its Okay to go to 1.6 V if my temps are still pretty low?

I tired it last night with 1.6 V and 4.3Ghz and my Temps were MAX'ing around 47c - 48C


As long as your temps are below 60C during prime95 stress test you are fine, personally I wont go Higher than 65C, now, 1.5V is consider by many as the safe limit for everyday use, going above 1.50V is going to kill your processor faster than if it was using less voltage, but if you feel like replacing your cpu sooner than anticipated, well go ahead and unleash the power..

48C seems pretty low for a 1.6 Vcore on a Phenom, can you upload a screenie with the CPUZ, Prime95 and coretemp during stress?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702;13771357*
> 48C seems pretty low for a 1.6 Vcore on a Phenom, can you upload a screenie with the CPUZ, Prime95 and coretemp during stress?


Ya I wan't to see screens of that as well. I guess that would be possible with a really low ambient temp maybe?

I'm currently at 4.009ghz (211 x 19) 1.475v in bios 1.456v in cpuz, NB: 2.11ghz 1.125v and 50-52c core temp under prime95. Ambient is around 25.5c. Still seeing if it's stable before upping the NB...


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

Just received my Kulher and i have some questions...

I'v runned linx @4.05 with 1.49v and Cpu NB at 1.4v

I had to stop testing after 2 mins cuz it hitted 67ºC.

Fan rpm was idle at 1.4k and wont change.. how do it get to 2krpm??

And do you think i need to reseat it?


----------



## M3TAl

Are you using the 620 or 920? On the 620 the fan rpm isn't read. The rpm shown is the pump. Mine runs around 1.4k rpm on the pump. Also how do you have the rad and fan setup? Did you use the stock paste or something else?


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

My kuhler is 620. So my pump is ok... in the box it shows rpm 1.4k-2k... thats why i'v asked.

Here is my airflow:










Another question...

If i bough 2 fans with 49 CFM each will i have a performace increase in a push/pull config?


----------



## CarMelo88

I see you guys want proof.. lol

I cant get a full hour on OCCT it stops half way into it due to error but i never do get BSOD









I will upload the pic in about 20min... My room temp today I about 5 f higher cuz its pretty hot outside but my temps do stay around 47c -50c


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarMelo88;13776579*
> I see you guys want proof.. lol
> 
> I cant get a full hour on OCCT it stops half way into it due to error but i never do get BSOD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will upload the pic in about 20min... My room temp today I about 5 f higher cuz its pretty hot outside but my temps do stay around 47c -50c


If you get error, ur not stable.


----------



## CarMelo88

Ya I know that...

Just playing around with OC'ing.










Check it out!







I took everything out of my case, to paint, and do some modding a little.







http://i1184.photobucket.com/albums/z335/moneymaker882/DSC02246.jpg


----------



## WhitePrQjser

I have a huge problem, which I posted here:

http://www.overclock.net/intel-general/1035395-antec-k-hler-h2o-920-usb.html

Basically the software won't detect the 920, and gives an error. I've installed the latest drivers. No change.

I've installed it like this in the USB header:

***** <--- Plugged in to the 5 pins, with the *black* wire facing LEFT (in my
**** Silverstone Fortress 2 the *black* wire faces towards the top).

If I install it with *Black* facing downwards or RIGHT then the fans just spin at max, but Windows doesn't recognize it.

If I face it in the, what I assume to be the right position, then Windows recognizes it, but only as an Unknown Device, and it will not update it or anything.

Really having issues here, and I need them solved fast







The mobo is Gigabyte UD5, if that helps :S

Thanks!


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Bump...

Anyone?


----------



## CarMelo88

So im assuming both fans on the Antec 920 are hooked to the Pump...

Then the pump is hooked in a 3pin on your Gigabyte mobo.

Go into your BIOS and see if you can see the fans PRM speed, So your saying from the moment you boot up they are spinning at FULL rpm?

Uninstall software, then try again... Best luck







If not then your Antec 920 is messed up.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CarMelo88;13777265*
> So im assuming both fans on the Antec 920 are hooked to the Pump...
> 
> Then the pump is hooked in a 3pin on your Gigabyte mobo.
> 
> Go into your BIOS and see if you can see the fans PRM speed, So your saying from the moment you boot up they are spinning at FULL rpm?
> 
> Uninstall software, then try again... Best luck
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> If not then your Antec 920 is messed up.


Both fans are plugged into the same CPU_FAN header. The only thing messed up is the way the USB-cable needs to be fitted to the motherboard.

I really don't know what to do...


----------



## homestyle

Can you control the pump speed on the 920 with a fan controller?


----------



## mfranco702

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Carlos Hilgert Ferrari;13775936*
> My kuhler is 620. So my pump is ok... in the box it shows rpm 1.4k-2k... thats why i'v asked.
> 
> Here is my airflow:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another question...
> 
> If i bough 2 fans with 49 CFM each will i have a performace increase in a push/pull config?


Your airflow looks very helping in keeping the radiator getting fresh air all the time, however I would like to share my experience with this particular cooler and show what I have found to be the best configuration

1 Very important to have dual fans in a pus/pull setup, exhausting the air out of the case
2 Make sure the fans are at least 2000 rpm and 75-80 CFM
3 Connect the pump directly to the power supply 12v molex using a 3 pin adapter to ensure is working at full speed all the time
4 Do the same with both fans,

Now this is my personal config, my fans and pump are working full speed 24/7 however you can always control your fans thru the bios to keep em quiet in idle the same with the pump, but thats a personal choice.

heres a pic of what my set up looks like


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle;13780888*
> Can you control the pump speed on the 920 with a fan controller?


I can't do anything :S

If I plug the USB-cable in as shown in the manual, then the Antec logo lights up, and Windows will recognize it as an Unknown Device.

If I plug it in as you guys say, then the logo doesn't light up, and the fans spin at max (like it's not even plugged in), and Windows won't see the device.

Now, the fans are hooked up to the same header. I've tried both SYS_FAN, CPU_FAN and CHA_FAN.

The only RPM readings I get are around 650 rpm when installed as the manual describes.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

BUMP

Tested the the 920 in my own system today. My friend has a Gigabyte UD5-B3, and I have an ASRock P67 Extreme4, and I got the same issues.

Software cannot detect the 920. I come to wonder if it's the P67 chipset? Or it's the Kühler? It's odd, because another friend of ours have the exact same board (UD5-B3), and his Antec software won't recognize the 920 as well.

So we packed both 920's down, and going to RMA them. It's too bad, 'cause I really had set my hopes up for it, but now, I don't think I want it.


----------



## mpetroul

Hello all

I just joined this forum, with the purpose of joining the 620/920 Club. Below are the specs of my recent systems. I have owned an H50, which is great and the 920, which is so much better. The new system I put together is so much fun and having all the leading edge parts has been fun to figure out. So if I can add my name to the list that would be great.
Thanks,
Mike

Here are my systems:

Older:
Corsiar H50 WC system
Core i7 920
Asus PT6
2X XFX 4850's CFX'ed
6GB OCZ DDR3 memories
64 SSD and 1TB HDD

Newer:
Antec/Asetek 920 WC system
2600k sandy bridge
Gigabyte GA-Z68-UD7-B3
2X MSI 6950's CFX'ed
8GB (4X2) Corsair Dominator DDR3 RAM's
64 GB Kingston SSD
2X 1TB WD caviar black HDD's
750W Corsair PS
Cooler Master Cosmos 1K Case


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Can anyone help?


----------



## yunior

Don't know if i can help, but i've read somewhere on this board that the kühler 920 drivers from the antec page are buggy, so you need to install the included drivers from the disc. If windows found the device and the software does'nt recognize the pump then it is possible to install the drivers manually in the device manager. You should btw connect the pump to the cpu_fan2 (3pin) header and set it to full on in the bios.


----------



## Carlos Hilgert Ferrari

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mfranco702;13781509*
> Your airflow looks very helping in keeping the radiator getting fresh air all the time, however I would like to share my experience with this particular cooler and show what I have found to be the best configuration
> 
> 1 Very important to have dual fans in a pus/pull setup, exhausting the air out of the case
> 2 Make sure the fans are at least 2000 rpm and 75-80 CFM
> 3 Connect the pump directly to the power supply 12v molex using a 3 pin adapter to ensure is working at full speed all the time
> 4 Do the same with both fans,
> 
> Now this is my personal config, my fans and pump are working full speed 24/7 however you can always control your fans thru the bios to keep em quiet in idle the same with the pump, but thats a personal choice.
> 
> heres a pic of what my set up looks like


Thanks ;D


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yunior;13800041*
> Don't know if i can help, but i've read somewhere on this board that the kühler 920 drivers from the antec page are buggy, so you need to install the included drivers from the disc. If windows found the device and the software does'nt recognize the pump then it is possible to install the drivers manually in the device manager. You should btw connect the pump to the cpu_fan2 (3pin) header and set it to full on in the bios.


If you'd have read the post I linked to, you would see that I've tried with both the included drivers, and the one listed on Antec's website.

Windows finds a device, but just calls it "Unknown Device", and fails to install it.

I cannot install it through Device Manager since when I install it, it gives an error code saying that the device cannot start. I believe it error code 10, or something.

I've tried to hook up the fans to both CPU_FAN, SYS_FAN and CHA_FAN. It gives the same ~650rpm. on everyone of them.

Seriously, this bugs me now


----------



## yunior

Have you tried the different usb headers on your board? Maybe you can switch it with the front panel connector, next idea is to kill this clip and wire the cable directly to the mainboard if you find an pin assignment.


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yunior;13802638*
> Have you tried the different usb headers on your board? Maybe you can switch it with the front panel connector, next idea is to kill this clip and wire the cable directly to the mainboard if you find an pin assignment.


If you'd have read the post, I linked to, you would've seen that I've tried different USB headers, and what do you mean about switching it with the front panel connector? There are two headers. One is used for the front panel ports, and the second one is used for the Antec Kühler. I don't think, I understand that question.

If I have to wire the cable directly to the keyboard, I would rather RMA the 920 instead of losing warranty an all...


----------



## WhitePrQjser

Bump


----------



## Ohlikken

Going to make a quick question here if it's ok.
Noticed how cheap H2O 620 is compared to H50.
So can you mod the H2O 620 as simple as with the H50?
(Reservoir mod)

Have searched like a crazy person to find guide/pics but with no success. =/


----------



## jivenjune

I haven't posted in awhile, so here's an update of my rig:

















Second GTX 460 added, completely swapped out stock fans with Thermalright SilenX series 120mm/140mm and added an OCZ XTC Rev. 1 Mem. cooler. Oh, also using a Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP15 and IC Diamond 7 for my Kuhler. Getting awesome results these days.


----------



## PMan007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *k_ozz;13567507*
> Might try switching it to intake here in the next week or so, I am awaiting a filter for the back of my case prior to testing...


I'm planning to buy a P183 V3 in september with my new system and was thinking about the kuhler 620 or 920. Does the 920 fits well in you case and do you like it?

Could you post some pictures of your setup?


----------



## kache

I was wondering something: in this thread I see only people with Kuhler 620.
May I ask why? Checking the prices it seems that the 920 is only 30â‚¬ more. Isn't it worth the price premium or what?


----------



## HOTDOGS




----------



## WhitePrQjser

Still no one with a solution?


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WhitePrQjser;13833449*
> Still no one with a solution?


Does the program on the disk actually install and can you open it? Do you have fan control disabled in the bios?


----------



## FxFusion

hi guys, i just bought the 920, haven't fitted it yet but I was just wondering would replacing the stock fans with 2 ty-140s and mounting the cooler vertically in the top of my obsidian 800D be a good idea?

the air cooling in the case is extremely bad, and it suffocates if you don't reverse the flow (according to some reviews). so the there's 1 rear 140mm exhaust fan which i'm having to turn round and make an intake fan, i planned on using a ty-140 to do that as-well.

i used my l33t paint skills to demonstrate


----------



## McMarcus22

quick pic from camera phone


----------



## Chuckclc

Anyone tried lapping these yet? If so any success and what grits did you use?


----------



## Blood Fiend

so, im basically running my i7-960 cpu stock, except ive disabled all power saving features and HT, and set my cpu multiplier to 25x, so is running at [email protected]

Adjusted my ram to x.m.p. settings, which sets it to

ddr3-1600(800mhz)
1.5v dram bus voltage
1.4v QPI/DRAM Core Voltage(i think its a little high, i think i can get away with at least 1.35)

I have antec kuhler 920 with stock fans
Intake fans= 1 front 200mm, 1 side 200mm. 1 bottom 120mm, 1 front 120mm(3x5.25bay).
exaust fans=1 top 200mm, and stock kuhler 920 push/pull.

Heres where I start to question things. Somthing happend when i first got my rig(sparked, blew up LOL), returned my pc and they replaced the mobo with a new one. 
Well i dont think they cleaned/re-applied T.I.M. My temps seem a few degrees hotter then be4.

Idle temps around 38-40C, and 100%load temps(intel burntest on high) around 60-65c. Are these normal temps??? when I OC to 4ghz i get idle temps around 45-50c. 70c under full load with intel burntest.

Do you think its worth my time to clean and re-apply the T.I.M(mx-4)?


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:



Do you think its worth my time to clean and re-apply the T.I.M(mx-4)?


Definitely. 45-50c idle is way too high. I would think your particular CPU overclocked to 4ghz should idle in the mid 30s.


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Blood Fiend*


so, im basically running my i7-960 cpu stock, except ive disabled all power saving features and HT, and set my cpu multiplier to 25x, so is running at [email protected]

Adjusted my ram to x.m.p. settings, which sets it to

ddr3-1600(800mhz)
1.5v dram bus voltage
1.4v QPI/DRAM Core Voltage(i think its a little high, i think i can get away with at least 1.35)

I have antec kuhler 920 with stock fans
Intake fans= 1 front 200mm, 1 side 200mm. 1 bottom 120mm, 1 front 120mm(3x5.25bay).
exaust fans=1 top 200mm, and stock kuhler 920 push/pull.

Heres where I start to question things. Somthing happend when i first got my rig(sparked, blew up LOL), returned my pc and they replaced the mobo with a new one. 
Well i dont think they cleaned/re-applied T.I.M. My temps seem a few degrees hotter then be4.

Idle temps around 38-40C, and 100%load temps(intel burntest on high) around 60-65c. Are these normal temps??? when I OC to 4ghz i get idle temps around 45-50c. 70c under full load with intel burntest.

Do you think its worth my time to clean and re-apply the T.I.M(mx-4)?


Idle temps are more a result of how warm or cool it is in your house. Idle temps in a sense mean absolutely nothing. Your load temps actually sound pretty good. But if your temps are that good at load overclocked, then your house ambient temp is probably ok. I would definitely try reseating the the thing. They probably put too much TIM or something.


----------



## fishhawk

Lapping is always a good idea if your ok with doing it,always a chance you could hurt something, but that is like modifying anything. I always lap my cpu and cold plates and always get 2c-10c better temps, just depends on lap job,tim and computer set up. Here are pics of my 620 and my 1090t. I use automotive wet dry papper,800-1000-1500-2000 grit, than if you want it to realy shine-lol,i use a metal polish, than clean everything very well with some good isopropyl alcohol.

After all is done i use good tim,i tint the cpu and tint the cold plate, than apply a very small rice grain size dab to the middle.

On my 620 i only gained 2c on load and 2c on idle, but it also cooled much faster and maintained a more stedy temp rather than jumping up and down, that is another good reason for lapping most do not mention.


----------



## lagittaja

I'll report myself here.
Ordered yesterday the 620.
Going to be running it with my 2500K.
I'll post pictures when I get it, it's gonna be around 1-1½weeks till I get it.
Also getting a MSI 560Ti TFII/OC and new PSU.

I need to ask this cause I'm not sure.
I was planning on running the 620 with GT AP-14 P/P
Placing it in the front of my case so it gets fresh air, exhaust is in the rear a 2x80mm.
I'm just wondering will I experience somekind of overheating with my new gpu? Probly not.
Or should I reverse the airflow? Make the 2x80mm intake and 620 the exhaust?
Maybe not..


----------



## fishhawk

All you can do is try different set ups. No case is the same and even identical cases cool different depending on what fans/hardware are installed. Most times,useing the rad fans as exhaust works best, but have seen a few that claim intake has given them better results. My set up the 620 works the best as exhaust through the top of my case.
Good luck and post when you get done testing.


----------



## lagittaja

Thank you for your advice!
Point taken, I'll do the testing myself (kinda knew some1 would say that)
Yeah, I'll report here how it goes.
But, IF I would believe what my gut says, I would think that for me it would work better as an intake cause of 2 things.
1. The GPU I'm getting isn't ExternalExhaust model, and by so it dumps its warm air to the case=620 sucks the warm air=higher cpu temp
2. If I would use it as exhaust, then I would have to turn the 2x80mm around -> dont believe they push enough air.
Actually, theres a third thing too, I prefer to keep my case airflow slightly positive pressure.

But, I'll test and see how it fairs.
PS. SilentRig (finnish webstore) shipped the PSU and the Antec today. Yay!
But the GPU and other stuff, I put in another order, and the GPU is still not in stock, rep at the SR webstore said that maybe tomorrow or the day after they'll have it in stock.
w00t, a nice techno p0rn installing and stuff weekend coming up.


----------



## Rafale77

How do I add myself to the list?


----------



## lordasp

Just about halfway done with my system build with the antec 620 cooler. I still have the case, new PSU and monitor to go. I am looking at the Sentey GS-6000 from newegg on sale for $40 before shipping. I was able to unlock a 3rd core on my Phenom II X2 555 stable. Idle temps with the 620 are about 39-40C with it being about 90-100F here. I am using the stock fan as the push and another inexpensive 120mm fan for the pull.

Here's my current CPU-Z settings: http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=1869738

So far it's been stable at 4.025ghz.


----------



## Blood Fiend

Changing the fans on the kuhler 920! New fans are....(drum roll)... Delta AFC1212DE-PWM 120mm Case Fan....

They draw alot of power, my question is, if i plug the power into a molex instead of into the motherboard, will I be fine?(as in not blow anything)


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blood Fiend;13887105*
> Changing the fans on the kuhler 920! New fans are....(drum roll)... Delta AFC1212DE-PWM 120mm Case Fan....
> 
> They draw alot of power, my question is, if i plug the power into a molex instead of into the motherboard, will I be fine?(as in not blow anything)


You should definitely consider a fan controller for those fans. If you connect them directly to a molex, you'd better invest in some heavy duty earplugs. You may want to look at some lower power pwm fans that can connect directly to the 920.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

These are neat little coolers.


----------



## Blood Fiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *McMarcus22;13887370*
> You should definitely consider a fan controller for those fans. If you connect them directly to a molex, you'd better invest in some heavy duty earplugs. You may want to look at some lower power pwm fans that can connect directly to the 920.


it would be nice if some one would awnser my questions..... The usb header controls the fan speed according to the liquid temperature. THere for i dont need a fan controller(even tho i have one) since as it stands right now, its a 3 pin connected to my cpu fan header(the pwm is not connected to mobo).
The fan speed is controlled by the kuhler/chill control software...

and PS these fans are quieter then the stock antec kuhler 920 fans.!


----------



## Rafale77

The fan header is supposed to be PWM. I don't know if it will control your fan properly.


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blood Fiend;13888235*
> it would be nice if some one would awnser my questions..... The usb header controls the fan speed according to the liquid temperature. THere for i dont need a fan controller(even tho i have one) since as it stands right now, its a 3 pin connected to my cpu fan header(the pwm is not connected to mobo).
> The fan speed is controlled by the kuhler/chill control software...
> 
> and PS these fans are quieter then the stock antec kuhler 920 fans.!


I thought you meant connect the fans directly to the psu which is why I recommended the fan controller. You can connect the 3 pin pump/fan to a molex and not blow anything up. I believe benchmark reviews actually recommended doing it this way.


----------



## s74r1

does anyone know what ID tubing the kuhler uses? would 1/4" fit?

I planned on getting a H60 and modding it with 1/4" tubing with a bigger rad, but I just found the kuhler on sale.

Edit: Nevermind, I bought a H60 instead since I know 1/4" will fit.


----------



## homestyle

How's the 620 mount system compare to the H50 and H60 mount systems?


----------



## lagittaja

I believe it's actually quite similar.


----------



## Rafale77

yes they are more or less the same. All Asetek units.


----------



## Dakid

Posted another thread but I did not see this one at the time, maybe someone here can help also.

So I installed everything to the best of my ability. The USB plug is in fans are hooked up and the 3pin power connector is hooked up to the 4pin cpu fan slot.

My problem is when I start the system the fans for the antec 920 wont spin. The Led is on and such but the fans wont run. Also the software is already installed on the hard drive.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I'm posting from a laptop atm because I can't run my pc without those fans.


----------



## ViperBlackEdition

Have you tried powering the fans directly from the psu or another motherboard fan header?


----------



## moneeb

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm-alpenfohn-the-beast-wing-boost-pwm-silent-fan-inc-rubber-coated-anti-vibration-housing
would 1 of these fans work with the 920 as i have 1. will it work with the software or will i need 2 also is it a good fan for the 920.


----------



## lagittaja

Oh by the way, add me to the list


----------



## Blood Fiend

So i posted a while ago about unusally high cpu temps with my Kuhler 920. Was idling around 40-43C. I orderd some Delta 150CFM 38mm fans to replace the stock kuhler fans.

My previous concerns were, The company that built my computer had to replace the mobo shortly after i recieved it and they never reapplied T.I.M.

So I got my new fans, Cleaned/Reapplied (MX-4) and now my idle temps are 33C-36C.

My Kuhler liquid temps were always around 35C-38C be4, and now they are 30C-31C.

Cpu Temps @100% load(intel burntest on high with 8 threads/5 passes) Dont exceed 50C, as before they were going to 60-65C.

Now i feel more comfortable OCing to 4Ghz, right now its only OCed to [email protected], very slight OC, only raised the Multi to 25 and disable all power saving options. Going to try for 4 ghz stable in the next few days here.


----------



## Blood Fiend

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13128083*
> Try adding yourself to the spreadsheet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I wanna make sure it works lol


How do i addmy self to the spread sheet


----------



## Rafale77

Yeah the spreadsheet cannot be edited. Drove me nuts.


----------



## corhen

i added my new fans to my 620, adding a noctua p12 120mm increased CPU Temps by pretty much exactly 10 degrees. totally worth it, considering its whisper quiet, and only peaks at about 68 degrees!


----------



## fahmicious

hello everyone!

tried the search function, but failed... anyone here has the 920 running inside CM Storm Scout? I'm looking to upgrade in the near future.


----------



## kdon

Hello! Looking to purchase a Kuhler 620 with a Delta fan because my current stock cooling is awful. I was wondering if anyone could help me with a specific type of connector (3 or 4 pin) that plugs into the 620 female cable so that I don't have to worry about fan controllers, etc. Also a suggestion for a specific Delta fan would also be awesome. Thanks very much for your time!!


----------



## lagittaja

AFAIK, 620 cannot control fan speed.
E: and to answer your question, you can plug a 3 pin or 4 pin fan to the antec.

I myself have 4 fans in my sig rig.
2x AC F8 Pro PWM as exhaust and 2x Scythe GT 1450rpm on the 620.
1x GT as push on 620 is connected to antec=spins at full speed, NP IMO since GT silent.
The rest I have connected so like:F8:s and the other GT are connected like this=mobo 4pin->f8->f8->GT

The other gt on the 620 as pull will spinup when the case exhaust fans spinup.
Have set them up in ai suiteII
I was very surprised when I noticed the F8:s PST tech also adjusts the pull-GT speed.

IMO, that works well for me.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## fishhawk

Just to remind people who by the 620-than stock fan is a realy good fan-here are the specss again.

Bearing Type: Sleeve

Rated Volt: 12.0V

Rated Speed: 2,000rpm +/-10%

Max. Air Flow: 81.32 CFM

Max. Static Air Pressure: 3.394 mm-H2O

Noise Level: 27.36 dBA (Max.)


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13954778*
> Just to remind people who by the 620-than stock fan is a realy good fan-here are the specss again.
> 
> Bearing Type: Sleeve
> 
> Rated Volt: 12.0V
> 
> Rated Speed: 2,000rpm +/-10%
> 
> Max. Air Flow: 81.32 CFM
> 
> Max. Static Air Pressure: 3.394 mm-H2O
> 
> Noise Level: 27.36 dBA (Max.)


added to the front page. thank you so much! +rep


----------



## Rafale77

grasshoppa. How do I add myself to the list?


----------



## fishhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa;13958581*
> added to the front page. thank you so much! +rep


Your welcome,and thank you for stating this thread,i have been trying to help as manny as i can, and your doing a great job with maintaining it also.

Here is the stock thermal compond that comes with the 620 and 920/
ShinEtsu X23-7868-2D.


----------



## kdon

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


AFAIK, 620 cannot control fan speed.
E: and to answer your question, you can plug a 3 pin or 4 pin fan to the antec.

I myself have 4 fans in my sig rig.
2x AC F8 Pro PWM as exhaust and 2x Scythe GT 1450rpm on the 620.
1x GT as push on 620 is connected to antec=spins at full speed, NP IMO since GT silent.
The rest I have connected so like:F8:s and the other GT are connected like this=mobo 4pin->f8->f8->GT

The other gt on the 620 as pull will spinup when the case exhaust fans spinup.
Have set them up in ai suiteII
I was very surprised when I noticed the F8:s PST tech also adjusts the pull-GT speed.

IMO, that works well for me.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk



ohh so the fan always runs full bore even if its plugged into the voltage controlled fan slot on the mobo?

oh and one more question! is the stock fan a 3 pin or 4 pin fan? I'm a noob







Thanks!!


----------



## Rafale77

The stock fan is not PWM. It is just 3 pins.


----------



## spinal_chord

I should be getting my 620 tomorrow, Is anybody using 2 x Xigmatek XLF-F1254 fans in push/pull ????.

I ask as i've got 3 brand new ones sitting in their boxes so wondered if it'll be a decent upgrade to the one standard antec fan ????.

Cheers

Dave.


----------



## Volkswagen

If anyone is looking to get a kuhler 620 I have two of them brand new for $65 shipped each- see my FS thread in the FS section or PM me


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;13959615*
> Your welcome,and thank you for stating this thread,i have been trying to help as manny as i can, and your doing a great job with maintaining it also.
> 
> Here is the stock thermal compond that comes with the 620 and 920/
> ShinEtsu X23-7868-2D.


thanks again, I added that to the main page as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rafale77;13958720*
> grasshoppa. How do I add myself to the list?


if you scroll to the bottom of the embedded list and click google docs you should be able to edit it. its shared to edit with the public so anyone should be able to edit it.

EDIT: updated the reviews for the 920


----------



## Rafale77

I can't seem to edit the list:
When I click on Google Doc, it opens my Google doc account and I do not see this list as being shared.
If I click just the link on the first post. I open the spreadsheet but I cannot edit it. I do see it as being listed as public but it is not in an editable format.


----------



## Ayekalooter

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinal_chord*


I should be getting my 620 tomorrow, Is anybody using 2 x Xigmatek XLF-F1254 fans in push/pull ????.

I ask as i've got 3 brand new ones sitting in their boxes so wondered if it'll be a decent upgrade to the one standard antec fan ????.

Cheers

Dave.


You will find using two fans instead on one leads to a great benefit in keeping temps close / at room ambient.. As for those specific fans - they should be fine.. Are they (Your XLFs) better fans? Define better? Higher airflow means better to you?

Then No - The one that comes with it has a higher airflow than those, but a higher RPM which means you can expect the XLFs to be a bit quieter..... However, you have two of these (well 3, but you can only USE 2 on the cooler, unless someone has some other ideas for ways to mount 3~) and only one of the fans that come with it... Either use your two XLFs or mix and match... it doesn't matter to me (because I'm sure the temp diff will be minimal -- but I know we strive for the best in this forum.....I just strive to make it thru another day







) but someone else can tell you what's best with that situation.

Will using lower airflow fans have an impact on temps over those using louder higher airflow fans? Yes. Will this impact be substantial? No, not if you're going between the default fan and the XLF fans...

Can anyone give you an exact temp variation compared to another higher flow fan? I bet someone will try - but honestly this is not possible to test for certain unless YOU do the testing in YOUR environment with YOUR case and YOUR setup...

Be happy you don't have to drop 20 dollars on higher speed higher noise fans... if those single digit temp differences become a bother - upgrade to louder faster fans... if not - don't give it a second thought and be happy with your new cooler! ^_^ Good luck either way, and enjoy the cooler. Even when I was using a single fan I thought it was a massive improvement over the cooler I was using prior.... and once I added that second fan - it just gets better and better~ Now - I can't stop recommending these coolers to peers and putting them in other builds!


----------



## fishhawk

Just some fan info for thoses looking to try new ones insted of the stock ones,wich are very good fans by the way. I have been useing the scythe 88cfm and the 110 cmf fans for cooler and part of my case fans, i realy like theses fans plus there only like 7-9 dollars a peice at newegg, check out my sig rig and my temps, i have 2 110cfm,s scythe fans as push pull on my 620 with fan controlers,the only noise i get from them is wind noise and at full speed not bad at all. But i also have a couple of the 88cfm,s as case fans as well.

By the way-i upped my over clock to-1.47vcore @ 4.155 now and my n/b 1.35v @ 3080, only raised my 24/7 temps at stess testing by 1c.


----------



## fishhawk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*


thanks again, I added that to the main page as well.

if you scroll to the bottom of the embedded list and click google docs you should be able to edit it. its shared to edit with the public so anyone should be able to edit it.

EDIT: updated the reviews for the 920


+ 1 rep,your doing a great job on this thread.


----------



## spinal_chord

Well the Xigmatek XLF's are rated @ 61 CFM @ 1500 R.P.M @ <20dBa each and apparently have high torque and static pressure (unable to find the static pressure measurement).

The standard single Antec fan that comes with the 620 is 81 CFM @ 2000 R.P.M @ 27dBa but sounds louder and i'm unable to confirm whether it does indeed push that much CFM.

My case has excellent air flow, using the cm sniper ive got a 200mm fan at the front as an intake, one on the side panel which will be quite near to the fitted 620 and also another 200mm exhausting at the top, the 200m fans are the storm force rated @ 142 CFM @ only 1000 R.P.M

As i have 3 brand new Xigmatek fans sitting here i was hoping someone may already have compared some of these to the standard fan to give me some sort of idea on whether they perform better and if so then i'd fit 2 of them instead of using the standard fan, my personal thinking was that with the 2 Xigmatek fans combined stats in theory the cooler should perform better and from personal experience these fans @ full speed are fairly quiet.

Thanks for your imput, appreciated.

Dave.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ayekalooter;13970536*
> You will find using two fans instead on one leads to a great benefit in keeping temps close / at room ambient.. As for those specific fans - they should be fine.. Are they (Your XLFs) better fans? Define better? Higher airflow means better to you?
> 
> Then No - The one that comes with it has a higher airflow than those, but a higher RPM which means you can expect the XLFs to be a bit quieter..... However, you have two of these (well 3, but you can only USE 2 on the cooler, unless someone has some other ideas for ways to mount 3~) and only one of the fans that come with it... Either use your two XLFs or mix and match... it doesn't matter to me (because I'm sure the temp diff will be minimal -- but I know we strive for the best in this forum.....I just strive to make it thru another day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) but someone else can tell you what's best with that situation.
> 
> Will using lower airflow fans have an impact on temps over those using louder higher airflow fans? Yes. Will this impact be substantial? No, not if you're going between the default fan and the XLF fans...
> 
> Can anyone give you an exact temp variation compared to another higher flow fan? I bet someone will try - but honestly this is not possible to test for certain unless YOU do the testing in YOUR environment with YOUR case and YOUR setup...
> 
> Be happy you don't have to drop 20 dollars on higher speed higher noise fans... if those single digit temp differences become a bother - upgrade to louder faster fans... if not - don't give it a second thought and be happy with your new cooler! ^_^ Good luck either way, and enjoy the cooler. Even when I was using a single fan I thought it was a massive improvement over the cooler I was using prior.... and once I added that second fan - it just gets better and better~ Now - I can't stop recommending these coolers to peers and putting them in other builds!


----------



## johnathonm

Hi there,

I'm new here but I'm desperate at this point to get my Kuhler 920 installed again. I don't have my original CD and am trying to get the driver to install. I've downloaded the 1.1 driver from Antec's site and it keeps giving me an error code 39 when installed (Windows 7 SP1 x64).

Could someone upload the 1.0 driver somewhere? I'm at my my end...

Thank you in advance, sincerely.


----------



## tfoss

New review of 920 over at the at [H]ardOCP. Check it out. Max performance identical to the H70 in every test within the uncertainties of the measurements (+/- 1 degree likely). No surprise I suppose. I have both in two otherwise identical systems (Gigabyte P55A-UD3P, core i7 860 @ 4.2 GHz 1.41 VCORE, 4Gb Corsair RAM @ 2 GHz1.71 VDIMM, HX650 PSUs) and cases (NZXT Lexa S) and sure enough in a side by side (same thermal paste: SEX23-7783), both perform identically within error.


----------



## grassh0ppa

trying to fix the spreadsheet


----------



## fishhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tfoss;13983945*
> New review of 920 over at the at [H]ardOCP. Check it out. Max performance identical to the H70 in every test within the uncertainties of the measurements (+/- 1 degree likely). No surprise I suppose. I have both in two otherwise identical systems (Gigabyte P55A-UD3P, core i7 860 @ 4.2 GHz 1.41 VCORE, 4Gb Corsair RAM @ 2 GHz1.71 VDIMM, HX650 PSUs) and cases (NZXT Lexa S) and sure enough in a side by side (same thermal paste: SEX23-7783), both perform identically within error.


Sorry but if you check out tweak town-madshrimp and other reveiw sites-the Antec 920 beats the h70 at the same rpms, the h70 falls short of the antec 920 every time, they are not equal-in fact the 620 comes with in 1c-2c of the h70. Its always a good thing though to check atleast 5 or more reveiw sites on a peice of hardware.


----------



## Rafale77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tfoss;13983945*
> New review of 920 over at the at [H]ardOCP. Check it out. Max performance identical to the H70 in every test within the uncertainties of the measurements (+/- 1 degree likely). No surprise I suppose. I have both in two otherwise identical systems (Gigabyte P55A-UD3P, core i7 860 @ 4.2 GHz 1.41 VCORE, 4Gb Corsair RAM @ 2 GHz1.71 VDIMM, HX650 PSUs) and cases (NZXT Lexa S) and sure enough in a side by side (same thermal paste: SEX23-7783), both perform identically within error.


Complete BS. I owned the H50, H70, Kuhler 620 and 920.

The H70 with the same GT AP15 in push/pull runs the same temperature as the Kuhler 620. The 920 is 5-6 degree cooler with the same TIM (Shin Etsu 7783D) etc...

The review at [H] is one of the reviews that I have called biased towards Corsair on other forums. I am not sure why. The reality is that all these units are all made by Asetek. Corsair just decided to switch their OEM and go with Coolit which left Asetek to retail through Antec. The 920 is one generation ahead of the H70. The Coolit units I have owned are a good generation behind so the waterblock on the H60 barely matches the block on the H70 so I am not expecting the H80 to perform any better than the H70 since it is an H60 with the same rad as the H70.


----------



## Logical Error

@Rafale77

Would it just be better to buy the Rasa750 240rad kit for $130 rather then the H100 for $120? Im currently running a 620, dunno if I should upgrade to something else


----------



## lagittaja

Why would you upgrade? According to your sig rig your 2600K runs at 4,2ghz and that should be _easily_ cooled by the 620.
Since I have almost got my 2500K stable at 5,0Ghz with this 620.

Do you have the stock fan or have you changed it?
I have GT AP-14 pushpull. Nice temps too.


----------



## tfoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rafale77;13990311*
> Complete BS. I owned the H50, H70, Kuhler 620 and 920.
> 
> The H70 with the same GT AP15 in push/pull runs the same temperature as the Kuhler 620. The 920 is 5-6 degree cooler with the same TIM (Shin Etsu 7783D) etc...
> 
> The review at [H] is one of the reviews that I have called biased towards Corsair on other forums. I am not sure why. The reality is that all these units are all made by Asetek. Corsair just decided to switch their OEM and go with Coolit which left Asetek to retail through Antec. The 920 is one generation ahead of the H70. The Coolit units I have owned are a good generation behind so the waterblock on the H60 barely matches the block on the H70 so I am not expecting the H80 to perform any better than the H70 since it is an H60 with the same rad as the H70.


My data simply do not support the 5-6 deg. delta between the H70 and 920.

I think the statement about [H] favouring Corsair is quite a fair one, but I doubt it stops with one brand only across the spectrum of review sites. Many of these reviews of items are of course more likely to be posted when the results favour the item being reviewed. There might even be a bandwagon effect too, where the results of previous reviews are expected, and then "duplicated" (happens all the time in my field).

Someone also needs to do a test that eliminates as many of the systematic uncertainties as possible (differences in smearing and distribution of paste, clamping pressure, use a controlled constant heat load, use an isothermal case and/or operating environment, and test many to look at unit-to-unit manufacturing differences). Until then a difference of even 1-2 degrees is meaningless, and of course a healthy skepticism of any measurement is always good.


----------



## Chrit

Should I replace the ShinEtsu X23-7868-2D with AS5?
I have read that the fan speed is controlled by the pump, do I turn off PWM for CPU to have the pump at a constant 12.00v?


----------



## lagittaja

Well I'm going to swap my 620's paste to MX-4 when I get my enzotechs bmr-c1 for my gpu vrm.
I'll do my cpu+gpu pastes together to less hassle.
I'll report about my findings on stock/mx-4 sometime next weekend probly.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## Uantyv

1million dollar question can you mount in Lian-Li Tyr 1000x? Since it only has 140mm Slots for coolers?


----------



## lagittaja

Yes if you call MacGyver about it.
E: And to properly answer your question, uhm, yes I think so.
Zip ties or a 140mm->120mm mounting bracket.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## Chrit

Hey, Guys.

Having a lot of trouble with fitting one of these in my mATX case. My only option is to front mount like this with the radiator on the inside.

Thing is there is _exactly_ 25mm of space between the chassis and the front panel, so I can't have screws protruding from the front of the fan, otherwise the front panel will not fit, as you saw from the first image. My only option is to install it with the screws like this.

What I'm asking is; will I have to cut the screws to length? Or is it possible to screw them all the way through the radiator without damaging it?

Also, I've heard that a fan with high static pressure is best for the 620, can anybody suggest something better than stock off the top of their head?

Cheers.


----------



## lagittaja

Well now I have Scythe GT AP-14 (1450rpm x2) pushpull with 620 and works quite well.
Now I'm getting one AP-15 (1850rpm) to replace the push fan. So I will have faster push and slower pull fan. In my way of thinking it should work nice.

But I would recommend you getting AP-15 to replace the stock fan. Then you can use a fan controller to set the AP-15 to low speed when idle and ramp up the fan when needed. I would also recommend pushpull, it's just a lot better with two fans.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## spinal_chord

When would the fan on the 620 run at 100% ????.

The reason i ask is when i've run prime95 for a short run of around 1hr the fan is only reading just under 1400rpm with temps around 60 degrees, is the fan controlled via the pump i.e water temp and if so does anybody know @ what temp's the fan reaches 100%.

Dave.


----------



## lagittaja

You connected pump to cpu_fan connector on the mobo?
And the fan to the pumps fan connector?
Then 1400rpm reading you get is the pump rpm and the fan spins 100% all the time.
AFAIK, 620 can't control fan speed.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## spinal_chord

Ahhh right, so the reading im getting is the actual pump, so does that mean the fan and pump are working 100% all the time ????.

I'm just surprised the fan is as quiet as it is, i honestly thought it would be louder.

Thank-you.

Dave.


----------



## lagittaja

Oh yes, AFAIK they run at 100% all the time.
And I'm glad I could help.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## fishhawk

Yes the stock fans that come with the 620-have very great specs-if i could have bought an extra a while back i would have used them for a push pull,besides nice air flow the static pressure is great with them.


----------



## Rafale77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tfoss;13994682*
> My data simply do not support the 5-6 deg. delta between the H70 and 920.
> 
> I think the statement about [H] favouring Corsair is quite a fair one, but I doubt it stops with one brand only across the spectrum of review sites. Many of these reviews of items are of course more likely to be posted when the results favour the item being reviewed. There might even be a bandwagon effect too, where the results of previous reviews are expected, and then "duplicated" (happens all the time in my field).
> 
> Someone also needs to do a test that eliminates as many of the systematic uncertainties as possible (differences in smearing and distribution of paste, clamping pressure, use a controlled constant heat load, use an isothermal case and/or operating environment, and test many to look at unit-to-unit manufacturing differences). Until then a difference of even 1-2 degrees is meaningless, and of course a healthy skepticism of any measurement is always good.


Well I have owned the units and tested them on the same processor, TIM and the same fans. I posted the results on a thread on the eVGA forum.
Using a 980X and 7783D, 1.4125V Vcore, 1.4V VTT. 4.5GHz core /3950MHz Uncore and 1 GT AP15 push and a TY140 pull, I obtained 82C on the highest core under 1hr of LinX with the 920 and 87C with the H70 (same result I got from the Antec 620). At these voltages the H50 and the Coolit vantage failed at 23C ambient.

To be fair on the [H] forum review they used the stock fans and stock settings. I run my fans at 12V all the time.


----------



## olafolaf

Hi folks, my new components (Asrock 870 Extreme 3, Phenom II x4 970, Kingston HyperX), will migrate into my new Lancool K62. The motherboard and CPU cooler i will have attached in a shop, since i allways manage to fry my motherboard no matter my precautions.

I am low on budget and can't afford the antec 920. I could afford the 620. I definately want to upgrade to the 920 later so HERE'S MY QUESTION : Can I simply switch between 620 and 920 WITHOUT taking out the MOBO again? Will the 920 fit on whatever the 620 provides for sitting on the motherboard? (I am sure in can manage the "back fan" assembly).

'Assembly in a shop will cost me dearly and i don't see why i should pay for it twice (or take my 10 Kilo case for walk in the city again for that matter







.


----------



## lagittaja

Why won't you just wait till you have enough money for the 920 or take small loan from a friend or w/e. It's not that big of a price difference.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## olafolaf

It's 39 Euros difference in Germany, which put into affording a better GPU. Of course i still could go with the Skythe Yasya, but it's such a monster and i am affraid of my airflow (Lancool K62). But as we're at it:
What would be easiest to install, smallest, affordable (yeah, yeah ...) air cooler for a Lancool K62/Phenom II x4 970 Setup?

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


Why won't you just wait till you have enough money for the 920 or take small loan from a friend or w/e. It's not that big of a price difference.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## will1990

Hey,

Im sorry if this is a stupid question or if i've missed the answer while skimming through old pages but....

Does the 620 have the automatic fan controller on it?

If so is it possible to and a second fan to make it push pull and then use a y cable to let the unit automatically control both?

Thanks for your help in advance


----------



## spinal_chord

The pump is powered via the cpu header on your mobo then the fan is connected directly to the pump, neither of which are controlled as such, i think both the pump and fan just run at full power.

I'm pretty sure you could easily use a y cable to run two fans off the one header but if the fan runs at full power anyway then you could just as well connect a 2nd fan to an empty header on your mobo or directly to your power supply.

Dave.


----------



## will1990

Cheers, I think ill just put the fans onto a fan controller then - Thanks for your help


----------



## spinal_chord

The standard fan is surprisingly quiet bud, i've got it rigged up to the pump pushing through the rad with a Xigmatek fan connected to my psu pulling and it's quieter than my Megahalems was with push pull Noiseblocker XLP fans and i don't use a fan controller.

Dave.


----------



## olafolaf

Will someone please answer my question a page back?! :/


----------



## spinal_chord

Quote:



Originally Posted by *olafolaf*


Will someone please answer my question a page back?! :/


If the case your using has a cut out on the rear of the motherboard tray then YES, if you upgrade to the 920 at a later date you can just change the rad and cold plate and use the existing mounting hardware from the 620 but to be honest the cooler is sooo easy to mount you can do it from scratch if you wish.

Dave.


----------



## lagittaja

About that pushpull.
620 comes with only 4x mounting screws for one fan. You have to get more of those if pushpull.
And about the fan speed.
Now I have my fans on 620 setup like this.
Push=GT AP-14 connected to pump and runs 100%
Pull=GT AP-14 connected to PST from 2x Arctic Cooling 80mm fans @case exhaust=pull fan speed ramps up when AI Suite2 tells my 2x80mm to ramp up. I find this working well.

My fan setup is going to change to this during this week when I get back to my place:
Push=GT AP-15 connected to the PST and functions just like I explained above.
Pull=GT AP-14 connected to pump and runs 100%

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## skyline_king88

hello i am looking for pplz temps and the 620/and or 920 for the amd 955be as i hit max load 54c @4 with 1.365 v


----------



## Chrit

So, is it possible for the screws to go all the way through the radiator of the 620?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Chrit*


So, is it possible for the screws to go all the way through the radiator of the 620?


I don't know for sure. Haven't ever had a real radiator so.. maybe someone with more knowledge of wc could answer.
I wouldn't try all the way through.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## olafolaf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *spinal_chord*


If the case your using has a cut out on the rear of the motherboard tray then YES, if you upgrade to the 920 at a later date you can just change the rad and cold plate and use the existing mounting hardware from the 620 but to be honest the cooler is sooo easy to mount you can do it from scratch if you wish.

Dave.


Well, i guess my Lancool k62 will be adequate. 
The reason i don't want to install it myself is that i have killed each and every motherboard i removed from a case - allways. There must electricity in my hands or something. Well, at least women like me so







I GUESS :O


----------



## lagittaja

Well, if you worry about static electricity then you should wear some of those wrist bands and hook it the wire to some grounding point while you work.
And it's quite hard to kill a mobo in my opinion. Practically it's really hard to snap it in half. Knocking some components of from it while using a screwdriver? Well with your other hand you grab from the tip of the screwdriver and with other you screw it









I get the impression that you know how to remove a mobo from a case and how to install something like those? Well then you should assemble your machine by yourself, it is just WASTE of money since it is almost like
1. get the components 2. throw them in case and a little screw drive action drrrdrrr 3. turn on your machine and have fun with it.


----------



## olafolaf

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


I get the impression that you know how to remove a mobo from a case and how to install something like those? Well then you should assemble your machine by yourself, it is just WASTE of money since it is almost like 1. get the components 2. throw them in case and a little screw drive action drrrdrrr 3. turn on your machine and have fun with it.


I had the same impression about myself but that let to having killed my beautiful awesome Asrock A770Crossfire. I am typing on a crappy Labtop right now with 1,4GHZ and 5hundret somewhat RAM. I won't risk having that for another 4 weeks so i "gladly" spent the money.

Sidestory: Found out the Asrock A770Crossfire also assembled in a shop had no pins attached between Mobo and Case!!! Can U believe that?! And this board, it only started giving complains a month ago when i got a more Powerful PSU. Before that it had a lot to endure because of the pins and ran since 2008/2009 i think. Ah, beauty gone, but i am proud i had it


----------



## Anusha

ordered myself a 620. should come today in the evening. 
i have a couple of Enermax T.B.Silent 120mm fans with about 44CFM, so do you think using them in push-pull instead of running using the single stock fan would be beneficial? btw, i intend to use the fans as intake.

so that brings up the next question of whether my Antec 300 will be able to properly exhaust the hot air out of the top exhaust fan. i am not talking about the fan itself, but positioning of the top fan. do i need a case with two fans in the top or will the antec 300 do OK? suggestions please.


----------



## fapestar

How loud is this thing compared to the h50. Also, does anybody know why there are way more h50 owners than h60 owners? Also, how loud are these compared to stock am3 hsf under load?


----------



## Anusha

everybody is saying the stock fan on 620 is quieter than h50, but man this fan is loud!!! i can't imagine people living with an H50 if this is quieter than the H50.

if i attach my Enermax T.B. Silence fans in push pull, i get about 5C higher temps, but they are dead silent. maybe not the most efficient fans for a watercooler, but i want my silence back. i feel if i did a stupid thing by buying this replacing my silent MUX-120


----------



## calvinbui

on the 920, the 3 pin fans are speed controlled by the unit


----------



## zerounleashednl

Hello guys, i've been reading through this thread and have a question for the 920 owners: *how are the temps?*

I want to use a 920 to cool a i7 2600K @ 5GHz, so very curious about temps!


----------



## Khalam

depends on the V you use bro at im idealing at 34-37c and full load 72c, but thats with the fans at around 1000rpm, if they go up to 2400 or 3000 rpms the temps drop by 10-12c but you would either have to be death on one ear (preferably the one facing your case or use headphones you could always invest in 2x ap 15 gentle typhoon and run them at max rpm, where there gone be quite and around same efficiency as the 2400rpm antec fans


----------



## Smo

Hi guys,

I've recently installed my 920 but the pump and fan speeds are at maximum - the software isn't controlling it (clicking Extreme, Silent or Custom makes no difference).

Anyone got any ideas?


----------



## Mikey122687

Can you install an aftermarket fan like lets say a 120x38 on both sides to improve performance? I don't see why not right? Im talking about the 620 one.


----------



## spinal_chord

You can fit any aftermarket 120mm fan you like mate, as long as you get the correct lenght screws.

Dave.


----------



## Rafale77

Still can't edit the member list huh?


----------



## drnilly007

Just got one, for $50 bucks!


----------



## Rafale77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007;14098626*
> Just got one, for $50 bucks!


Where? I was so happy about my 3 620s for $55 each already!


----------



## calvinbui

has anyone tried modding?
i want to see if it's possible like the h50 mods


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *calvinbui;14099948*
> has anyone tried modding?
> i want to see if it's possible like the h50 mods


Havent tried. But would also like to know if this is possible safely. Just because i get bored sometimes. Think I read somewhere that this isnt really possible with these. Probably why i havent read anywhere of these things leaking.


----------



## Raephen

Do any of you guys know the rest of the measurements for the screws used in the 620? Width, thread, etc?
The single 1350rpm 120x20mm Yate Loon fan I'm using with my 620 is overkill on my i3-2100T (but oh so silent), but I'm thinking of migrating it to a phenom II dual or quad on a 900-chipset am3+ board and since my Yate probably won't be enough, I was thinking of a push/pull with another Yate or perhaps the original Antec fan.
The tdp of the dual/quad Phenom II's is 'slightly' higher than my i3's 35w (remember: I did say overkill, eh? ;p ), coming in at 85 and 125w (for the c3 revs; c2 and before: quad, at least, 140)
So to recap: Does anyone now the measurements of the screws used for the H2O 620?
Cheers!


----------



## drnilly007

Running folding with full 4 core smp, which I never ran because my temps would hit over 80's, at 4.0 1.33v highest temp on one core is 72 lowest high on another is 66. very nice temps and extra folding


----------



## Canadatron

Picking up my 920 on Friday for the build in my sig. Just picked up the mobo/cpu/memory today and now I'm preparing my current system for the tear-down and build.... I seriously can't wait.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Hey Khalam, what kind of TIM did you use with your 920? Or did you use stock?

I've got a similar setup to you but my temps seem to hit 90c's at 5GHz with 1.4v, just curious if it's the stock TIM, or the way I have my 920 setup (Exhaust) or what.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Also, if anybody knows and understands this kind of stuff.. I'm looking at getting a few Scythe Slip Stream 120mm 1900RPM moving 110CFM to use in Push-Pull on my 920's Radiator, will they be any good? Is their static pressure good for this use? I have no idea what static pressure is good or not.

500RPM -- 0.12mmAq
800RPM -- 0.34mmAq
1200RPM -- 0.92mmAq
1600RPM -- 1.46mmAq
1900RPM -- 2.30mmAq

So I'd probably be running them between 1600 and 1900RPM, will they do good or do I need something better? I was going to get Gentle Typhoons, but they're nigh impossible for me to find up here in Canada, and specifically the area I live.


----------



## drnilly007

Static pressure is when you push more air in to case so air being pulled out is like a dam breaking and water/air floods out wherever it can. I once saw a guy using a smoke test by blow smoke into a case to see where the smoke stayed stagnant and how fast it moved out of the case


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Alright, I also have a question about temps.
I'm running a 2600K at 4.8GHz with a voltage of 1.36.
My temps when browsing the web and watching videos tends to hit about 38-40c. When I leave my computer on all night, it can get down to 31-35c and at full load (Prime95 Small FFT's) it can near 75-80c.

Ambient temp is usually 23 to 25c, sometimes up to 27c. Is this normal? Are these good temps? I'm using the stock TIM on my 920, should I reseat with some AS5?

I've got my 920 working as an intake in P/P with the stock Antec fans, which are pretty great but loud, in my 800D with three fans from my old Antec 900 working as exhaust on the top as well as one 120mm and one 140mm working as intake on the bottom of the case.


----------



## IRO-Bot

Just picked me up a 620 at Frys earlier. Still need a couple more parts to start putting my computer together though.


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow*


Alright, I also have a question about temps.
I'm running a 2600K at 4.8GHz with a voltage of 1.36.
My temps when browsing the web and watching videos tends to hit about 38-40c. When I leave my computer on all night, it can get down to 31-35c and at full load (Prime95 Small FFT's) it can near 75-80c.

Ambient temp is usually 23 to 25c, sometimes up to 27c. Is this normal? Are these good temps? I'm using the stock TIM on my 920, should I reseat with some AS5?

I've got my 920 working as an intake in P/P with the stock Antec fans, which are pretty great but loud, in my 800D with three fans from my old Antec 900 working as exhaust on the top as well as one 120mm and one 140mm working as intake on the bottom of the case.


Your (idle-ish) temp when browsing the web seems a little high to me. My ambient temp is in the same range as yours (20-25c typically) and my CPU at idle (with 2x Sickleflows at 1300rpm, for me a tolerable noise level for the performance) sits at 28-30c. I'm using the standard TIM supplied with the 920.

I'm assuming the 4 bolts holding it to the board are tight (not too tight, mind) and that the TIM didn't smudge about during the application (ie, TIM touched the CPU, then the Kuhler was lifted back off and repositioned)?


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Smo*


Your (idle-ish) temp when browsing the web seems a little high to me. My ambient temp is in the same range as yours (20-25c typically) and my CPU at idle (with 2x Sickleflows at 1300rpm, for me a tolerable noise level for the performance) sits at 28-30c. I'm using the standard TIM supplied with the 920.

I'm assuming the 4 bolts holding it to the board are tight (not too tight, mind) and that the TIM didn't smudge about during the application (ie, TIM touched the CPU, then the Kuhler was lifted back off and repositioned)?


They are tight, right at the point where I'd have to use a fair bit of force to turn them further. As for the TIM, I'm not too sure. This was my first time mounting anything like this, so when I went to attach the block to the CPU I _may have_ touched then lifted inadvertently (as in, the hoses lifted the CPU a bit while I was adjusting, maybe) but I'm not sure and I obviously wasn't going to life the whole thing up to check.

So who knows, that could be it. I think I'll probably end up reseating with some AS5 just to be sure and if that makes no difference, I'll probably pick up some MX-3 or MX-4 and try that.


----------



## Rafale77

I just figured I would post it here... I now have 3 620s and 1 920 on my rig.









http://www.overclock.net/nvidia-cooling/1047888-corsair-h50-h70-antec-kuhler-620-a.html


----------



## drnilly007

No dont reseat with new tim it already has shin etsu on it.... stock


----------



## Canadatron

I just put my 920 into my Antec 900 case tonight and I can't close the cover!! The finger that holds the fan onto the window hits the radiator so there is something I didn't want to happen.

Not only do I have to break that tab off, I also lose the fan and the related air movement in the process.


----------



## Mystic5hadow

The rad hits the window fan on the 900? It shouldn't. What orientation is your radiator? Have your tried switching it around to see if you can get it to fit properly?


----------



## Mystic5hadow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *drnilly007;14129735*
> No dont reseat with new tim it already has shin etsu on it.... stock


I know this, but they put quite a bit on, plus it's old after sitting there for a while.
Everywhere I've read, people say they get a few degrees drop in temp by switching to AS5 or any other TIM, or just reapplying with some fresh Shin Etsu.

I've already done it with some AS5 now, but I've seen no drop in temps yet. I'm hoping the 200 hours burn-in/set will bring the temps down a bit.


----------



## calvinbui

cmon, someone mod one already and show us how!


----------



## vortech

I just wanted to say hi, I've have my 620 for some time now but finally added some 25mm shrouds. The change was good for 2-4c across all cores under load, and I think things got even quieter.










Setup is 2xGELID FN-PX12-15 in a push/pull config with shrouds drawing air into the case. Since the fans are PWM they operate at about 680RPM at idle or under light use and are nearly silent. I've seen idle temperatures drop 1c, load temps dropped over 11-14c across all cores, vs the OE single fan. Long story short this combination is quiet, yet efficient, and it is everything I was hoping for.


----------



## spinal_chord

What are your temps @ 100% load using linx or prime 95 before and after ????.

Dave.


----------



## drnilly007

my temps on prime are under 70


----------



## diddly3000

hi lads just wanted to know has anyone fitted the 620/920 to a nzxt lexa s case?
i bought the antec h20 620 but im having trouble fitting the radiator to the case.
i cant seem to find a way to fit it and have the side pannel on it, no matter what way i turn it its too big and i cant put the side on it while the 620 is in the case








i originally had the corsair a70 cooler in it but that covered one of my dims and wouldn't clear my corsair dominator ram









trying to find a cooler that will clear my ram and fit in the case is becomming a real pain now.
has anyone got any ideas?

thanks
michael


----------



## Twinkadink

Hey! Just decided to share some 920 pics here. enjoy!

Up close : 









A tad further away (Red dots are LED's) :









Panel on :


----------



## SkitzoPhr3nia

Looks like im going to join the club. Just got mine installed a few days ago. I have got to say it was no as easy as I expected. I hooked it all up, turned on the computer, and got the CPU fan error during posting, which i was expecting. The only problem was the pump didnt kick on and neither did the fans. After a very nerve racking hour trying to figure out what i screwed up I found out in killed my CPU power pins on my ASUS Crossfire IV. Plugged it into another PWM and it works. Sucks about the CPU fan power though. Temps look alright but not a huge difference over my olg V6GT. Haven't got to do much testing with it yet.


----------



## asmodyus

So I have joined the club have pick up soon. but a couple of questions I got HAF-X Case Rad fans pulling air from the inside out.

I7-960 Currently Clocked at 4160 vcore 1.352 Prime 95 full load Blend the temps are hovering around 83-84c is this to high.

Also I noctice some people have the tubes on the top coming down does that make a difference.

Also should I reverse the Rad fans and pull air from the outside. currently have 2 tops exhaust, and the rad fans push pulling exhaust. the rest 120mm 5.25 bay intake, bottom 22 intake and side fan intake.


----------



## Twinkadink

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asmodyus;14167008*
> So I have joined the club have pick up soon. but a couple of questions I got HAF-X Case Rad fans pulling air from the inside out.
> 
> I7-960 Currently Clocked at 4160 vcore 1.352 Prime 95 full load Blend the temps are hovering around 83-84c is this to high.
> 
> Also I noctice some people have the tubes on the top coming down does that make a difference.
> 
> Also should I reverse the Rad fans and pull air from the outside. currently have 2 tops exhaust, and the rad fans push pulling exhaust. the rest 120mm 5.25 bay intake, bottom 22 intake and side fan intake


Yeah I have the Antec 920 in the back as intake, side as intake and the front as intake also with the 2 top as exhaust. This way I get positive pressure inside the case which helps with dust but I've heard that the performance is a tad better than neutral and negative. I also do this because it is always good to get fresh, cold air from outside the case over the radiator. Since heat naturally rises anyway it rises up to the top and the 2 fans blow them out!


----------



## asmodyus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Twinkadink;14167268*
> Yeah I have the Antec 920 in the back as intake, side as intake and the front as intake also with the 2 top as exhaust. This way I get positive pressure inside the case which helps with dust but I've heard that the performance is a tad better than neutral and negative. I also do this because it is always good to get fresh, cold air from outside the case over the radiator. Since heat naturally rises anyway it rises up to the top and the 2 fans blow them out!


Yeah I will try this, also I droped my clocks to 4ghz and running prime 95 Full load my temps are hovering around 81-78 between the 4 cores.


----------



## magnite

I am thinking of grabbing a Antec 920 over the weekend (a local chain is having a great sale on them) but I was wondering if anyone has tried getting it to exhaust through the top of a 600t case? I know it can be done with a H70, but it requires drilling new mounting holes, something I'd like to avoid at all costs.


----------



## Rafale77

The 920 and the H70 share the same exaxt rads some the same mods are in order...


----------



## c0ld

Getting my 920 along with the rest of the parts on the mail of my new build!!!

How are you getting better results? Having the fans on the radiator exhausting or intake?


----------



## Erto

Hello, i want to get one of 920 or 620
My priority is to have a silent cooling solution with a moderate overclock
What you suggest to take? 620 or 920?


----------



## Smo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Erto*


Hello, i want to get one of 920 or 620
My priority is to have a silent cooling solution with a moderate overclock
What you suggest to take? 620 or 920?


At the end of the day it's down to whatever fans you want to use and if you'll let software take over, or use a fan controller.


----------



## Rafale77

With AP-15 pushband TY140 pull, the 620 performed about the same as 920 and is completely silent (to me at least). With anything stronger the 920 pulls away. I am 5C cooler on the 920 after replacing the AP-15 with an AP-29...


----------



## magnite

Well I guess I will not be top mounting it. Second question, skimming through the thread, it appears that the Noctua NF-P12-1300 aren't the best choice. Is this still the accepted wisdom? I am looking at grabbing some quiet high efficiency fans to replace the stock ones, but the GT ones are pretty much impossible to find in Canada at the moment. Any other viable and tested alternatives?


----------



## fishhawk

I use the scythe kaze 88cfm and the 110 cfm fans for cooler and case fans, just depends on what you think quet is, i get great temps with the 88cfms and all you hear is wind noise-its what i like about them. And as far as price/performance/dba you cant beat them at all.

New egg has a great price on them as well-and if you have room just install a controler, than noise is not a prob, but if needed the extra cooling is there. I use the Senty II and love it, for $23.00 its a steal for what it does and looks great.


----------



## skyline_king88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mystic5hadow;14137528*
> I know this, but they put quite a bit on, plus it's old after sitting there for a while.
> Everywhere I've read, people say they get a few degrees drop in temp by switching to AS5 or any other TIM, or just reapplying with some fresh Shin Etsu.
> 
> I've already done it with some AS5 now, but I've seen no drop in temps yet. I'm hoping the 200 hours burn-in/set will bring the temps down a bit.


try haveing rad as exhaust


----------



## asmodyus

So I reversed the Rad, got air coming from the outside into the case. With my I7-960 OC'd to 4.0 Vcore 1.31. I'm getting 49-51c idle and folding I get about 75-77c. I think this high but not sure I might buy some new tim and reapply over the stock.

Got a HAFX case looking to replace the inside rad fan with a red led what the best fan out there for that?


----------



## fishhawk

silenx or cmr4 both have red leds and arent to bad of fans, but not as good as your stock ones. Most of the best fans for cooling do not have leds. As far as the tim-even though it is some of the best tim you can use already preapplied, i personly always replace any tim with my own choice-for one it is not applied for max over clocking results. 2-you have no idea what might have gotten into the preaplied tim.

But theses are just my thoughts and conclutions over the years. And yes i have tried the stock tim on manny coolers-but i have always gotten better temps once i clean and applie my own.

P.S. Just so you know-i,m also a firm beleiver in lapping all my cold plates and cpu,s-but that is not for everyone.


----------



## asmodyus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *fishhawk;14226735*
> P.S. Just so you know-i,m also a firm beleiver in lapping all my cold plates and cpu,s-but that is not for everyone.


Sorry for my newbness but what exaclty is lapping?


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asmodyus;14226842*
> Sorry for my newbness but what exaclty is lapping?


Essentially 're-surfacing' by sanding.

Here's my proof of ownership;


----------



## fishhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asmodyus;14226842*
> Sorry for my newbness but what exaclty is lapping?


You sand down your cpu and cold plate on the bottom of your cooler to make things as flat as possible and as smooth as possible for the best contact for heat transfer. Look at my latest lap job-my h2o 620 and my 1090t.


----------



## c0ld

Okay so these to little cables come out from the Antec Kuhler 920 the 4 pin says to connect to the USB, but the 3 pin says to connect it to the mobo?? Im confused the cpu fan is 4 pin but this is 3 pin where does it go? I have the ASUS P8P67 PRO mobo


----------



## Rafale77

Your mobo has a pwm controlled fan header. You can plug the 3 pin plu on the 4 pin header. Look closely at the tab on your mobo header. There is only one way the plug will fit on it because of a tab which prevents you from plugging in the wrong pins.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld;14228904*
> Okay so these to little cables come out from the Antec Kuhler 920 the 4 pin says to connect to the USB, but the 3 pin says to connect it to the mobo?? Im confused the cpu fan is 4 pin but this is 3 pin where does it go? I have the ASUS P8P67 PRO mobo


As the fella above has said - plug it into the White 4-pin CPU_FAN header on the motherboard.

I have the exact same setup but when I had the 920 connected to the board that way and the two fans connected to the pump I had absolutely no control over the fan speeds/profiles whatsoever - even with the included software.

In the end the only way I could control my fans was to keep the pump connected to CPU_FAN and the two rad fans on a manual fan controller.


----------



## c0ld

Oh ok plugged it in to a fan PWR I get the CPU fan error I guess it goes in the CPU fan even though its just 3 pin??

Reped ya guys thanks for the help!


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld;14230041*
> Oh ok plugged it in to a fan PWR I get the CPU fan error I guess it goes in the CPU fan even though its just 3 pin??
> 
> Reped ya guys thanks for the help!


That's right - it's quite deceptive for the less experienced (as I was, I made the same mistake). The Kuhler needs to be plugged into the white CPU_FAN header.


----------



## McMarcus22

Wow... not even 2 months and the pump went out on my 920. I also recommended the 920 to a friend and his is bad too. Complete garbage I must say. Back to corsair.


----------



## lagittaja

Lol you fail. Both antec and corsair have same rebranded units

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## Atomfix

*Cough* Corsair H80-H100 *Cough*


----------



## McMarcus22

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14254673*
> Lol you fail. Both antec and corsair have same rebranded units
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


Lol you fail at life douchebag. Your mom is very proud.


----------



## alex-fitton

Does anyone no what model PWM fans are included with the Antec 920? thanks


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alex-fitton;14291930*
> Does anyone no what model PWM fans are included with the Antec 920? thanks


All I could find is that they're 120mm fans with 9 blades spinning 700-2400rpm and push max 111cfm.
But I think you already know that.
I tried looking at the fans on antec website put couldn't find them.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


----------



## Uncivilised

Just bought one of these, will report back later on its performance!


----------



## alex-fitton

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14292290*
> All I could find is that they're 120mm fans with 9 blades spinning 700-2400rpm and push max 111cfm.
> But I think you already know that.
> I tried looking at the fans on antec website put couldn't find them.
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


ye thats what i seen also thanks for looking


----------



## cyang09

I got one of these antec 920, it performs pretty good IMO, I am getting temps of 28c, MX-2 paste, on idle with a push/pull config drawing air from inside the case. Haven't tried load yet because I am in the process of modding my corsair 700D, still using the PC while modding the other parts =P


----------



## fishhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14292290*
> All I could find is that they're 120mm fans with 9 blades spinning 700-2400rpm and push max 111cfm.
> But I think you already know that.
> I tried looking at the fans on antec website put couldn't find them.
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk with this enabled just to annoy you.


Antec has not as of yet put the stock fans for the 620 or 920 up for sale separate from the coolers, but have told me they do plan on it. The fans that come with the 620 and 920 are realy fantastic fans, not only the cfm,s they blow but they have very high static pressure, i,m not sure about the 920 fans yet, but i will get the complete specs soon from antec, they sent me all specs on the 620, and the 620 fans not only blow 81cfm,s but have a 3.94 static pressure wich is great!!


----------



## TechSoldier

Just got done building my all new rig. Quick question, will the Scythe 120mm 1850 GTs plug into the existing Kuhler fan connectors and still work the same way as the stock fans(adjust fan speed accordingly)?

Here are some pics of my setup and you can check out my specs here: P7738


----------



## TechSoldier

Anyone?


----------



## alex-fitton

Quote:


> Comment: Alexander,
> 
> The fan included with the Kuhler 920 is specially made for the Kuhler 920. If you want to purchase the same fan, then please fill out the Antec Europe Online Order Request form here: http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/Events/us/EuStore/
> 
> For warranty, you will only need to make sure to keep your invoice or receipt.
> 
> To reply to this comment directly, please click on the link below:
> 
> http://www.exdesk.com/Antec/Europe,MiddleEast/index.cfm?addcomment=yes


I emailed Antec about the 920 fans and this was there reply


----------



## CloudX

Just returned a Corsair H50 for a 920. Seems a lot beefier.


----------



## TechSoldier

Alex, here was the message I got from Scythe:
Quote:


> Hello Justin,
> 
> Greetings from Scythe USA. Thank you for your message.
> 
> The Gentle Typhoon fan does not have PWM control feature but can be fitted onto the Antec 920 Kuhler.
> 
> As for CFM and proper cooling question, Gentle Typhoon fans have enough airflow (CFM) and known to have a long lasting bearing & silence, so it is recommended for your needs.
> 
> We also have other fans available based on your budget and you can find the information at our website below:
> 
> http://scythe-usa.com/product/acc_top.html
> 
> Please let us know if you have any questions or require any further information and thank you again for your interest in Scythe items.
> 
> Best regards,


So the question is still at hand, will the GTs automatically adjust by plugging them into the existing connector, just like the Antec fans? Some say yes others say no....

Also, I just want to comment on Scythe's very quick customer service. I received a response very quickly and they were very supportive.


----------



## asmodyus

So I got a question on a couple of builds I saw people using what looks to be a spacer between the fan and the Radiator any idea's if those help with temps? or is just for looks.


----------



## Rafale77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asmodyus;14345520*
> So I got a question on a couple of builds I saw people using what looks to be a spacer between the fan and the Radiator any idea's if those help with temps? or is just for looks.


It is a shroud. What it does is reduce the area of the center of the fan which has no flow. It does reduce temperature a little bit depending on the fan you use. The high pressure fans will benefit more.


----------



## visionviper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSoldier;14344892*
> Alex, here was the message I got from Scythe:
> 
> So the question is still at hand, will the GTs automatically adjust by plugging them into the existing connector, just like the Antec fans? Some say yes others say no....
> 
> Also, I just want to comment on Scythe's very quick customer service. I received a response very quickly and they were very supportive.


Scythe has amazing customer service. I emailed them once asking if a certain one of their fans would fit on a low profile heatsink of theirs. The guy went out, got the equipment and put it together himself and sent me pictures of the result. I was blown away by it, they really went the extra mile for me. I replaced my fans in my desktop not too long ago and I went with Scythes.


----------



## RecklessDonkey

Hey all,

I've been looking (trolling if you will) these pages for a while now and am still a little unsure of what fans to buy to replace the stock ones on the H20 920.

My concern is the noise the stock ones make, and I'd be willing to sacrifice a degree or 3 to get my system quieter. I'm only looking to OC my CPU (i5 2500k) to about 4.5 or 4.6ghz...and not likely any higher (not looking to hit 5.5ghz or anything insane like that).

Do you guys think that these fans would be a good way to go? Will they fit, or have any issues with replacing the stock ones? If not, what would you guys suggest for minimal sound but not a huge increase in temps (or decrease in performance, if you will)

http://www.scythe-usa.com/product/acc/080/sy1225sl12hpvc_detail.html

Any help would be appreciated as I'm looking to pull the trigger on this sooner than later. Thanks!


----------



## TechSoldier

I'm on the same boat but with the GTs. I'm getting to the point of just ordering the GTs and trying it out since no one here seems to be able to answer whether or not the GTs will still work with the Antec ChillControl.

With the SlipStreams I dont think you'll need to use the PCI fan controller as it should work with the Antec software since its a PWM fan.


----------



## fishhawk

Plain and simple, and has been stated befor-if it is not a pwm fan they will not work, and software made to control pwm fans must have a pwm fan. So your best bet if unsure is to check with the company that makes the fan.


----------



## TechSoldier

I guess this thread is what is throwing me off:
http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/1035089-antec-kuhler-920-scythe-ultra-kaze.html


----------



## Rafale77

The control will indeed not work if your fan is not PWM.
I have modified a GT AP-29 by adding the PWM control wire and changed the header to a 4 pin PWM fan header. Works like a charm!

I also wonder why you would want to control an AP-15.. it is so quiet already!


----------



## spinal_chord

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rafale77;14356669*
> The control will indeed not work if your fan is not PWM.
> I have modified a GT AP-29 by adding the PWM control wire and changed the header to a 4 pin PWM fan header. Works like a charm!
> 
> I also wonder why you would want to control an AP-15.. it is so quiet already!


Hey bud,

Do you have any pictures of the process of adding the wire, quite a few people would probably like to see it done.

Side note, did you get my pm bud ????.

Dave.


----------



## Rafale77

All credits go to ehume

http://www.overclock.net/air-cooling/1045524-gentle-typhoon-pwm-mod.html.


----------



## TechSoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rafale77;14356669*
> The control will indeed not work if your fan is not PWM.
> I have modified a GT AP-29 by adding the PWM control wire and changed the header to a 4 pin PWM fan header. Works like a charm!
> 
> I also wonder why you would want to control an AP-15.. it is so quiet already!


Thanks Rafale77.

One question though. The stock Antec fans are only 3-pin and fit into a y connector of the 920. So by adding a 4th wire wouldn't this eliminate the opportunity to use the stock connectors? Does this mean that the Antec stock fans arent really PWM since there is no 4th wire?

Please forgive my ignorance, I'm just trying to understand the issue completely.


----------



## Rafale77

You are correct. The stock fan is not PWM. The three wires are Ground, 12V power and tach. The 4th wire is the control signal for the PWM function.
That would mean that the 920 is actually regulating the stock fan using voltage.
The difference between the two is that some fans motors are not designed to be undervolted and may start making weird noises. PWM fan motors are designed to run with pulse voltage so they do not emit these noises when regulated with pulses. I never used the stock fans on my units so I never realized they were only 3 pin.


----------



## TechSoldier

Very interesting. So then in theory the GTs will work. The question now is whether the motor is capable and if the voltages are the same at their max speed. I may just have to order one to find out. If it does work this would mean that at idle the GTs would probably be really quiet since the ChillControll program would have them operating at lower rpms.


----------



## asmodyus

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rafale77;14347848*
> It is a shroud. What it does is reduce the area of the center of the fan which has no flow. It does reduce temperature a little bit depending on the fan you use. The high pressure fans will benefit more.


Cool I like the look and I think it will look good when I replace the front fan with a Red LED fan now the hunt in trying to find a good High pressure LED Fan.


----------



## toioiz

I have the 920 installed right now. It works amazing (based on my limited knowledge), but on 'extreme' the fans go to 2600-3000 rpm, and are really freakin loud. The pump is pretty silent though.


----------



## TechSoldier

Thats exactly why I'm looking at replacing them with Scythe GTs. I know that at full speed a fan is going to be loud but the stock Antec fans are just too loud for my liking.


----------



## toioiz

It should work... There is a comment here which states they have swapped out the fans for the AP-15 GTs.

Hmm.. Yeah I was looking at these two fans:
D1225C12B7AP-29 - 3000 RPM fan (same as what it comes with)
D1225C12B7AP-31 - 5400 RPM fan (Higher, but might have issues with voltage)

Wonder if they would work *better

Edit:

  
 Youtube  



 
 of the AP-29s on the K620, which is a similar unit.


----------



## toioiz

I'm going to be getting a set of AP-31s next week, and I'll post back here if they work out well. They seem to be about the same Db as the stock fans at full speed, so it seems like a fair trade-up.


----------



## calvinbui

gts work. the unit controls the speed


----------



## LocutusH

Hi all

Some questions:

Wich set has longer tubes, the h2o 620, or the corsair h60? I am currently on the decision between these two... i know that the latter costs a bit more... is it worth it or not? Noise, tubing length, and price, are my main concerns. Dont plan to OC the 2600k too much.

What is the lifespan of such an antec kÃ¼hler? Is it safe to use them in 24/7 (for years) without any maintenance?


----------



## c0ld

So which AP's would be the best for the Kuhler 920??

Also what do I have to do to join the club







?


----------



## toioiz

I should have the AP-31s by the end of the week, I have the Kuhler 920, so I'll let you know how that goes


----------



## TechSoldier

Toioiz,
Just wondering, but why would you replace the stock fans with something that is equally as loud and runs at a higher rpm? These are hardly going to be an improvement especially for around $40 for the pair. Help me understand your reasoning for deciding to go with the AP-31s vs AP-15s especially when the 15s are about half as loud.


----------



## CloudX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TechSoldier*


Toioiz,
Just wondering, but why would you replace the stock fans with something that is equally as loud and runs at a higher rpm? These are hardly going to be an improvement especially for around $40 for the pair. Help me understand your reasoning for deciding to go with the AP-31s vs AP-15s especially when the 15s are about half as loud.


Yah that doesnt make sense unless they are higher cfm.


----------



## Rafale77

The AP-31 is screeming loud. They are much higher pressure than the OEM fans though so he will get better performance from them.


----------



## TechSoldier

Very weird. He states it works well but that its loud on extreme and what does he go and do, buys an even louder fan.....lol. Will be interesting in hearing his feedback once installed.


----------



## LocutusH

My 620 set came today too








Is the stock fan any good, for SILENT operation? Or do i have to go for another type?


----------



## TechSoldier

Depends on your temps. If you can keep the temp below 75C on full load in silent mode you'll be fine, otherwise you'll need to bump it up.


----------



## LocutusH

It will cool a 2600k at stock speeds (for now), and the rad installed as intake/push.


----------



## Axon14

Does anyone have a 920 in the Lian Li Lancool K62 case? It's got this setup of two 120mm fans at the top...if I can, I'd like to screw the fans up there. Any experiences?


----------



## toioiz

I was just saying that the stock fans were really loud. If I can get say 2-3x the CFM from the AP-31 over the stock fans, for similar noise, even a little more, then it's a win.


----------



## TechSoldier

Well, you aren't going to get 2-3 times more airflow I can tell you that right now. According to Antec, the stock fans produce 110CFM and state the noise level is 43Dba. Doing a little research it seems like the AP-31 fans produce 150CFM but are known to be loud at around 50+Dba. So, based on your posts I guess you are going for the extra 40CFM for cooler temps and don't care about noise. If this is the case, it would be really nice if you ran two benchmark tests for temp readings (stock vs AP-31).

Looking forward to the results.


----------



## Blindsay

Put the 620 in my girlfriends computer









its on an i5 750, the factory cooler that came with it is terrible!

with the new cooler it maxes at 50c running intelburntest, stock clocks but its a huge improvement and its some terrible ambient temps.

overally im happy with it, installation though id say is not for a computer novice, i had no issues but i can see noobs having issues

I get a kick out of saying my girlfriends computer is watercooled too lol, even though she has no idea about it haha


----------



## toioiz

I plan on doing benchmarks with the AP-15s, stock, and AP-31s. If the performance isn't significant, then the quiet will definitely win. But, I haven't seen any benchmarks between the 3. the fans I have right now report over 60db when on 'extreme', so either their software is wrong, or their spec sheet is wrong.

Either way, I'll have some good tests by next week


----------



## Rafale77

When I tested my 620 against my 920, I found out that with the GT AP-15, the 620 performed as well or even better than the 920. The 920 needs higher power fans to perform. I switched to an AP-29 push and now I see its real potential. I never tested the stock fans though.


----------



## TechSoldier

Awesome stuff toioiz. Do you already have AP-15s? From what I understand they are out of stock nearly everywhere.


----------



## toioiz

I have a contact of mine shipping the AP-15s to me. I got the AP-31s today, so will install them tonight after I do some 'stock' benchmarks.


----------



## c0ld

Add me please


----------



## CloudX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld;14393694*
> Add me please


----------



## skyline_king88

anyone got a 955 be on one or the other looking for best water cooling for the money. was thinkling the rasa klit but seems like a lot of work.


----------



## toioiz

Ugh, so after spending about 30 minutes with the DF-31s converting them to the 3 pin connectors, I realize that this unit uses 4 pin connectors, so, testing is delayed a bit









AP-15s have an estimated arrival date of August 3rd.


----------



## c0ld

Let us know how they perform, I was looking for some AP-15's for my 920 too.


----------



## ValPod

I got antec 620 but it sucks as a CPU cooler I dont know why I got 50C idle temperature
so its too hot
.but I put a antec on my GTX 580 and its working very nice idle 33C and playing witcher 2
uber sampling on, 55C Im surprised !

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g235/trolcia2/cool2.jpg
http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g235/trolcia2/cool.jpg


----------



## Rafale77

You must have installed it wrong somehow. Don't see how you could ger 50C idle with this cooler on the CPU.


----------



## ValPod

Rafale77 any suggestion mate.coz Im a bit shocked.maybe its a faulty one


----------



## TechSoldier

Quote:



Originally Posted by *toioiz*


Ugh, so after spending about 30 minutes with the DF-31s converting them to the 3 pin connectors, I realize that this unit uses 4 pin connectors, so, testing is delayed a bit









AP-15s have an estimated arrival date of August 3rd.


After you posted this I cracked my case open and indeed the fan connectors are 4-pin







Last I looked I just glanced at the connector going to the mobo which is 3-pin. This definitely changes things in terms of whether the AP-15s will actually work like the stock fans.

Keep us updated!


----------



## calvinbui

Just try any normal 3 pin fan and you'll see it ramps up when required


----------



## Rafale77

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ValPod*


Rafale77 any suggestion mate.coz Im a bit shocked.maybe its a faulty one


Hard to know. How did you install it on your GPU?
I would suggest to redo the TIM and make sure that all the screws are tight with nothing interfering between the cooler and the CPU...


----------



## ValPod

I did it same way as GPU.I got 3 of them I mean antec 620. coz I got SLI. 2 for GTX 580 and 1 for CPU,so its a different one.I didnt remove an old paste but I did the same on GPU and its workin perfect.thats why I think maybe its a faulty one.have to check the third one


----------



## Ihasfip

Cools quite well for me. Low 30's when browsing internet, listening to music etc, low 40s when gaming. Heres some pics. Cable management looks crappy, but its actually quite well. The wires you see in the picture or temp sensor leads, and I the way they are is just temporary. Plan on painting inside soon...


----------



## lagittaja

Here's some temps with 2500K @4,5Ghz 1.304v
12hr prime95 blend run with 6,8Gb ram.
http://www.overclock.net/14412608-post2070.html


----------



## toioiz

So, the 3 wire thing won't be an issue with the AP-31, they have the spot for the PWM wire









So I'll get out my tools and re-wire those this week, the AP-15s don't have that 4th connector though, so my test will only have those at 'max' speed, which should still be rather quiet.


----------



## TechSoldier

I have an extra 3-pin fan laying around. When I get home I'll test it to see if it ramps up when connected to the Antec 920. If it does, we're in business.


----------



## CloudX

I installed another one of these last night, to cool a AMD 1100t and we saw no more than 39c running prime95 at stock settings after about 30mins. It's pretty amazing to cool a 6 core like that. Room temp was 75F.


----------



## skyline_king88

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX;14427107*
> I installed another one of these last night, to cool a AMD 1100t and we saw no more than 39c running prime95 at stock settings after about 30mins. It's pretty amazing to cool a 6 core like that. Room temp was 75F.


what one did u use is it the 920.


----------



## TechSoldier

Hey Toioiz,
I hooked up the 3-pin fan today and it doesn't ramp up like the stock 4-pin. Maybe you can confirm but if this is the case then that means the popular AP-15s need to run off a fan controller.

I'm thinking the misconception here is that the 920 can ramp up fans compared to the 620, so I went onto Antec's website and noticed the 620 does not mention anything about PWM controlled fans compared to the 920 which does.

Just curious, does anyone know if there is a fan controller out there that uses the mobo temp sensors to automatically adjust the fan speeds? It seems most are manual adjusting.


----------



## CloudX

Quote:



Originally Posted by *skyline_king88*


what one did u use is it the 920.


It was the 920. The owner called me again and is so happy with it. He's all gung-ho now and is getting a real motherboard for that 1100t.


----------



## skyline_king88

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CloudX*


It was the 920. The owner called me again and is so happy with it. He's all gung-ho now and is getting a real motherboard for that 1100t.











well i might havee to get this i am between this and xspc 240 and the 100 as the xspc would be nice as i want to put video card in loop.

how do u guys put these thing on video cards


----------



## TechSoldier

Drill a couple holes, add some bolts and nuts and you're good to go!!!!


----------



## spinal_chord

lmao, wish it was that easy.

If you want to do it right mate the correct and most secure way ( non ghetto ) is like this:

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia-cooling/1047888-corsair-h50-h70-antec-kuhler-620-a.html

Dave.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSoldier;14429944*
> Hey Toioiz,
> I hooked up the 3-pin fan today and it doesn't ramp up like the stock 4-pin. Maybe you can confirm but if this is the case then that means the popular AP-15s need to run off a fan controller.
> 
> I'm thinking the misconception here is that the 920 can ramp up fans compared to the 620, so I went onto Antec's website and noticed the 620 does not mention anything about PWM controlled fans compared to the 920 which does.
> 
> Just curious, does anyone know if there is a fan controller out there that uses the mobo temp sensors to automatically adjust the fan speeds? It seems most are manual adjusting.


You say that it did not control speed of the 3 wire fan but did they run full speed?
It didn't worries me if they run @ full speed all the time since they are very silent but what i want to know is how they compare to a h70 with the same fan set up.


----------



## TechSoldier

Cannot say for sure that it was running at full speed (seemed like it) however I can confirm later tonight if I have time.


----------



## TechSoldier

Any update toioiz?


----------



## toioiz

Yeah, the AP-15s will either need a fan controller, or just stay at full speed. Full speed cools almost as well as the stock antec fans on the 920 (but, not *as good*). I was noticing a 2C difference between them. The AP-31s are only a little bit louder, but also cooled 4C cooler than the stock fans at full speed on my setup. Adding the PWM cable to the AP-31s allowed the 920 to control the fan speeds, and at "similar" RPMs, the AP-31s still appear quieter than the stock fans.

I have more data I'll post when I get it formatted correctly, but my end result:
The cooling difference between stock/AP-31 wasn't big enough to make me stick with them full time, right now I have the AP-15s connected to a Fan Controller


----------



## toioiz

*temps were recorded on an overclocked 4.3Ghz 1100t at 100% load. These are "Core" temps, not socket temps.

50C - AP15
48C - Stock 920 fans
44C - AP31


----------



## TechSoldier

What was the duration of those tests?

Seems like the AP-31s would be the better option if they were quieter than the stock fans and you can utilize the ChillControl software. Just curious but what's the noise difference like between the AP-15 and AP-31 fans? Any videos?

4C difference is a decent difference considering this is only a fan replacement.


----------



## toioiz

I don't have any videos, but the noise difference between between the AP15s and AP-31s at max speed was at least twice as loud.

It's a considerable drop for just fan replacements, but that is at max speed, which is again, screaming loud. at similar RPMs to the stock fans, they were a bit quieter, but the same performance, the AP-15s are much quieter, for a little less performance.

If my ambient temps were higher, or I was getting close to overheating a proc, I would definitely use the AP-31s, but since I'm not, and since *the wife gets a vote*, I'm using the AP-15s.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *toioiz;14465873*
> I don't have any videos, but the noise difference between between the AP15s and AP-31s at max speed was at least twice as loud.
> 
> It's a considerable drop for just fan replacements, but that is at max speed, which is again, screaming loud. at similar RPMs to the stock fans, they were a bit quieter, but the same performance, the AP-15s are much quieter, for a little less performance.
> 
> If my ambient temps were higher, or I was getting close to overheating a proc, I would definitely use the AP-31s, but since I'm not, and since *the wife gets a vote*, I'm using the AP-15s.


Only 2C difference going to ap15's; adding a shroud should compensate for that.
Now i just need a confirmation that they run @ full speed conected to the 920.


----------



## staryoshi

I just installed my Kuhler 620. I have used many, many heatsinks and closed loop water systems in the past, and I can say that I am happy with the build quality on this unit









Performance is a bit weak, but I may just need to reapply the thermal paste, as I got a bit overzealous with the MX-4. Right now it is performing on par with my 212+, both units using push/pull AP-14s.

I'm hitting 63C in Prime95 @ 4.4Ghz on my i5 2500k (Before extensively tweaking voltages and such). Ambient temp is a bit warm at 26.5C These types of units are heavily dependent on ambient temps









I will re-seat this puppy after I move, but for now it'll work just fine. I primarily picked it up to get a better view of my motherboard, to accommodate 16GB of Ripjaws-X ram, and to better facilitate GPU cooling.

Also, having installed several H50s and H70s, installation of the 620 was a breeze for me









Here is a picture of it in action


















On the topic of AP-15s, I find them to be too loud. AP-14s are the perfect balance of performance and noise for me. I use AP-13s in my quiet and ITX builds. My GF is using a SUGO05 ITX build with a H50 and push/pull AP-13s







It's near-silent.


----------



## lagittaja

Well atleast I don't find AP-15's too loud









Yes, you CAN hear them at full speed, but I think it is mainly the air gushing through the radiator.
BUT, it is personal. Someone may even find the AP-13's too loud lolol

And I've been too thinking about putting shrouds on my radiator but haven't "had the time"
I need some zip ties and some ingenuity to mount them with the shrouds.
Since I couldn't find anywhere here locally same kind of screws the antec uses, same length or longer.
They were either too thick or too thin.
So currently I have the fans mounted to the radiator with 2 screws per fan. Works great!

But do you guys reckon there would be a noticeable difference for having a shroud for only the push fan vs having shrouds for both push and pull fans?
I've seen a test somewhere on the internet about the no-shrouds vs shrouds but I can't remember anymore WHERE I saw that. Care to help?

Also I am currently testing my 2500K with [email protected]
Temps being around 60-70-68-65 core0-1-2-3
Ambient temp is a tad lower than I usually have since it's a bit of a cold night and I've my window open with a 30cm table fan blowing cold air from outside towards the 620 rear intake of my case.


----------



## staryoshi

The kind of sound AP-15s produce is MUCH less offensive than typical fans. It's too loud for my taste, but it is very tolerable compared to alternatives in the same RPM range. I love GTs, they are a triumph of fangineering







Best. Bearings. Ever.


----------



## lagittaja

In my opinion, Noctua P12 is more annoying than the AP-15's
Since I have the top cover off of my A05N case because of heat build up on top of the case -> I ghetto mounted 2x120mm fans on there blowing air down.
Dropped gpu temps 20*C

One of the fans is GT1450rpm and the other one is a Noctua P12.
With the P12 you get the funky blade design with uberspecialvortexnotchforubersilentoperation which make the fan whail.

When I have the GT1850's at top speed, I can CLEARLY hear the P12 when I ramp it up from 5V -> 12V
And the pricing for P12 is just plain ridiculous..

I think I'll now mount one shroud to my 620








But I gotta find another zip tie. I'm kinda on a short supply of them








Found one. But I need at least 1 more.








Time to get creative


----------



## Panickypress

Just installed this along with new mobo and ram... one thing to say, no three things to say really quiet, also VERY capable of cooling the cpu in every mode, and in extreme mode= OMG!! ITS LOUD. like Really loud. but still worth every cent, it's like with every DB of sound you get a buttload of temp decrease.. anyway, I bought it, and I love it!


----------



## TechSoldier

Congrats! One word of advise, try not to kick dirt in your case


----------



## Panickypress

he he, it doesnt look that dirty in real life. but maybe i should clean those cards... damn side fan!!!


----------



## giecsar

Ok so I just installed my brand new 920...
My motherboard is the ASUS P8P67 Deluxe, but when I turn it on it won't boot, it says "CPU fan error"








The Kuhler works though, and the temps are OK.
I don't understand, does it want a PWM fan ???


----------



## TechSoldier

Make sure you plug it into the "CPU Fan" header on the motherboard.


----------



## alex-fitton

Make sure in the bios the motherboard controls the fans by voltage so there on max and not pwm

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


----------



## dioxholster

For the push/pull config, the two fans have to be antec? Can i just use the antec and the case's fan on the rad? Also for the people with a similar setup as mine (lga 1366 mobo + 690II) is it possible to put the bracket through cutout without the removing the mobo?


----------



## Ivan TSI

I will switch from a H50 in p/p ( < = airflow):
<pull gt ap15<rad<shroud<push gt ap15 <

to a kuhler 920 using the same set up with the ap15's ; did you think i can get at least 6c improvement?


----------



## Rafale77

Ivan, not so sure with the 920. You will with the 620. The AP15s are too weak to push enough air through the 920. You need at least 2000rpm fans on the 920 for it to show any difference. Get a pair of AP29...
On my testing the 920 was barely as good as the 620 with AP15s. With Ap29 push though the 920 is 4-5C lower.


----------



## ezenewton

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rafale77*


Ivan, not so sure with the 920. You will with the 620. The AP15s are too weak to push enough air through the 920. You need at least 2000rpm fans on the 920 for it to show any difference. Get a pair of AP29...
On my testing the 920 was barely as good as the 620 with AP15s. With Ap29 push though the 920 is 4-5C lower.


I like these myself, but a little pricey.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835213001


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rafale77;14510770*
> Ivan, not so sure with the 920. You will with the 620. The AP15s are too weak to push enough air through the 920. You need at least 2000rpm fans on the 920 for it to show any difference. Get a pair of AP29...
> On my testing the 920 was barely as good as the 620 with AP15s. With Ap29 push though the 920 is 4-5C lower.


i understand that the performence will get hurt using AP15s instead of the stock ones but it still will perform much better in comparison with my currenrt H50 that can barely handle my I7 @4.0 without the Ht & undervolted.


----------



## flaxseedoil1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14013727*
> ...
> Then 1400rpm reading you get is the pump rpm and the fan spins 100% all the time.
> AFAIK, 620 can't control fan speed.


I think the 620 can control fan speed:

"The voltage-controlled 120 mm fan"

Fan Speed: 1450 - 2000 RPM

source:

http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/product.php?id=Mjc2OCYxNw==


----------



## LocutusH

In what range controls the 620 the attached fan? 7-12V?
Just asking, because i plan to use it with another fan type. (CM Sickleflow anyone?)


----------



## flaxseedoil1000

Not sure, here is what I do know (just installed 620)

3 wire pump goes to mobo, reads constant 1400 rpm

2 wire fan goes to pump

If I plug 2 wire fan directly to mobo it speeds up to 100% but being 2 wire there is no indication of actual rpm - Antec says 100% is 2,000 rpm

I suppose you could hook a meter up to the fan lead on the pump and measure the voltage as the cpu temp changes


----------



## lagittaja

620 doesn't control fan speed.
afaik.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14559273*
> 620 doesn't control fan speed.
> afaik.


The official specs claim: Fan Speed: 1450 - 2000 RPM

So it does... the question is, what voltage is this 1450RPM...


----------



## flaxseedoil1000

I just measured:

CPU 35c - fan 5v


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flaxseedoil1000;14559595*
> I just measured:
> 
> CPU 35c - fan 5v


Thx!


----------



## lagittaja

Huh. Well atleast when I was using my AP-15 on the pumps connector it didn't change it's speed.
And who the heck on this forum is going to use this thing while using the single connector on this thing?
Atleast I wan't to control my fans the way I like it, aka mobo connectors + ai suite II


----------



## konoii

With the 920, do you need to plug in the USB cable and connect the fans to the pump?


----------



## TechSoldier

You can hook up the fans directly to your fan controller to control them. As for the usb connection you will need to plug that in as it provides power to the pump.


----------



## TechSoldier

Quote:



Originally Posted by *ezenewton*


I like these myself, but a little pricey.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16835213001


Those are so freaking loud! There are a lot better choices in that price range.


----------



## roskof

Hello, I just ordered a 920 and I have a couple of questions.

1. I have a PWM fan controller, I am currently utilizing the CPU fan header to connect the PWM fan controller. Would it be possible to use any other available fan headers for the Kuhler? Or do I need to plug it to the CPU fan header?

2. Does anyone know If this cooler fit on the top/rear fan mount in the Antec 1200 case?


----------



## Nebster

I've been thinking of replacing the radiators fans(they're so loud). How do these compare based on pure performance?

  Amazon.com: Zalman ZM-F3 120mm Quiet Case Fan with Silicone Pins: Electronics Are there better options? Suggestions?


----------



## Nebster

For the 920 btw


----------



## TechSoldier

Hard to say since I cant sem to find the CFM rating on those fans. If you are looking to replace the fans you need a fan that can push at least 110CFM. There's only a few options out there that provide this type of airflow while still being quite and usually they aren't cheap. Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans seem to be a favorite among watercooling applications so you may also want to check them out.


----------



## Nebster

I found an open box scythe gt at newegg but I'd really like to avoid them. What's the next best thing?


----------



## dioxholster

can the 620 cool adequately a 4.0 OC for my i7 920? with just one intake fan that is?


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14567072*
> can the 620 cool adequately a 4.0 OC for my i7 920? with just one intake fan that is?


Of course it can. Just look at reviews, you can find a lot of them with google.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dioxholster*


can the 620 cool adequately a 4.0 OC for my i7 920? with just one intake fan that is?


It depends on your ambient temp. Many people had made it with a H50 and i barely keep my i7 950 @ 82c without the HT and undervolted @ 4.0ghz


----------



## Nebster

What's the second coolest/quietest 120mm radiator fan next to the scythe GT? I'm going to order tomorrow so can somebody answer?


----------



## lagittaja

Why don't you just buy the Scythe GT's ?
They're good quality and very nice static pressure.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Ivan TSI*


It depends on your ambient temp. Many people had made it with a H50 and i barely keep my i7 950 @ 82c without the HT and undervolted @ 4.0ghz



i think im gonna go with the 620 but you are talking about single fan right? because im not sure if i want push/pull.


----------



## CloudX

You guys don't like the stock antec fans on the 920?


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dioxholster*


i think im gonna go with the 620 but you are talking about single fan right? because im not sure if i want push/pull.


No, im talking about :
<pull<rad<shroud<push<
< = airflow
And thats with a pair of GT AP 15's


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *CloudX*


You guys don't like the stock antec fans on the 920?


No, they are loud


----------



## lagittaja

Ivan TSI, have you tested how much the shroud affects the temperatures?
I didn't remember to test how it would affect it
I have set up my fans just like you, and have AP-15's as well.
pull<--rad<--shroud<--push

And I've seen somewhere a test where they tried various fan set up's with shrouds and without them. Can't remember any more what the site was.

And @dioxholster I think you do want to go with push/pull, it is much more effective than a single push or pull fan.


----------



## Vowels

New review of the Kuhler 620

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/antec_kuehler_h2o_620_cpu_cooler_review,1.html

The 620 doesn't even beat the H50 in this review


----------



## Rafale77

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vowels;14605842*
> New review of the Kuhler 620
> 
> http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/antec_kuehler_h2o_620_cpu_cooler_review,1.html
> 
> The 620 doesn't even beat the H50 in this review


Which to means that the review is garbage. I owned both. They were not even close. Something must be wrong with their testing method.


----------



## dioxholster

every review is different, who to trust? some reviews have it beats H70.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rafale77*


Which to means that the review is garbage. I owned both. They were not even close. Something must be wrong with their testing method.



Quote:



Although Antec advertise adjustable fan speed, PWM functionality is not supported so I am unsure how this is achieved.


Didnt read any further... LOL. They should not hire kids for reviewing.


----------



## warrencr

noob here guys
what are the differences of 620 to 920


----------



## L0GIC

620 has a slimmer rad and one fan and the 920 has a thicker rad and two fans.


----------



## warrencr

Thanks dude
so which suits better for 2500K..


----------



## L0GIC

Im running an Antec 620 with my 2500K in push pull with a stock Antec fan and a stock NZXT fan, does the job. Idle temps are 26-32 (have had as low as 22) and load temps 45-49 degrees.

This is stock speeds until I get a new mobo that can take my RAM.


----------



## lagittaja

warrencr, it depends.
*If you can afford it*, then I would go with a 920 + 2x Gentle Typhoon 1850rpms in push pull.
But even the 620 is more than enough to adequately cool the 2500K, these are very cool running chips even oc'ed








But if you can afford it, then go with the 920+2x GT 1850








If 920 is a bit too expensive for you, then 620+2x GT 1850's is also a good choice if your motherboard can adjust the speed of 3pin fans, atleast my Gene-Z supports.

I have 620 because that was all I could afford at the time being.
I have it with 2x GT 1850rpms, and it can easily cool my 2500K.
Load temperatures with 4500Mhz using 1.3vcore
I am getting around 55-65*C load with ambient temperatures around 17*C

And with my testing using IntelBurnTest 2048mb load (strictly for temperatures, not stability)
I am getting around 40-44 delta when my fans spin full speed (~1700rpm and ~1800rpm)
That means the temperature of the processor ABOVE ambient temperature.
Explained further: if you get 60*C load temperature for processor, and ambient is 20*C, that means your delta is 40*C

Explained because wasn't sure about how experienced you are, apologies if you already know this kind of stuff


----------



## TechSoldier

Like lagittaja said, if you can go with the 920. Nice design, great quality and will free up space compared to stock air coolers.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


Ivan TSI, have you tested how much the shroud affects the temperatures?
I didn't remember to test how it would affect it
I have set up my fans just like you, and have AP-15's as well.
pull<--rad<--shroud<--push

And I've seen somewhere a test where they tried various fan set up's with shrouds and without them. Can't remember any more what the site was.

And @dioxholster I think you do want to go with push/pull, it is much more effective than a single push or pull fan.


With 1 shroud ~ 2C improvment , with 2 shrouds should be ~4C if i remember correctly.
Im thinking in going full WC with a RASA Kit since i dont think the improvment from switchin to a 920 will justify the $120 invesment, and since my situation is complicated since my ambient temps are really high (30-33C) and i have 1 video card dumping a lot of hot air inside my case ( TF2 470) and thats cause my other card is on RMA , when it comes back they will be 2 infernos inside the case so i think a externally mounted rad is the only way to keep my cpu in check


----------



## warrencr

i have Antec Nine Hundred Two V3, i was thinking i could use the top fan , so I guess i only need to buy another fan.

isnit


----------



## adolf512

i will get a antec kuhler 920, i just have to decide which fan(s) to get.


i won't have any fans just for outtake so i will be able to use both stock fans as intake, i have 3 places to have intake fans so atleast i will buy one extra fan while buying this cooler. http://www.overclock.net/water-cooling/1095473-chassis-fans-my-fractal-design-r2.html


----------



## lagittaja

Adolf, hmm. I had R2 once.
Hmm.
Just what I would do if I were in your position.
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450rpm 2x front intake 1x rear exhaust
X-Silent 140mm bottom intake
And put your 920 as intake on one of the top slots so it'll get fresh air.


----------



## 7gramrocks

whats the difference between the antec 920 and the corsair H100


----------



## viscon

Does anybody know if you can run 920 on a Dual Xeon board ?

TB


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *7gramrocks;14655338*
> whats the difference between the antec 920 and the corsair H100


Off the top of my head, the 920 has a 120mm radiator where the H100 has a 240mm radiator. I don't know more than that.


----------



## adolf512

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


Adolf, hmm. I had R2 once.
Hmm.
Just what I would do if I were in your position.
Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450rpm 2x front intake 1x rear exhaust
X-Silent 140mm bottom intake
And put your 920 as intake on one of the top slots so it'll get fresh air.


antec kuhler 920 ordered yesterday







. i haven't ordered any fans yet. i am still looking at which fan(s) to get (if any).



i have sealed my case so the air should be forced to come in through the dust filter, i will upload photos when i am complete with everything.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:



Originally Posted by *viscon*


Does anybody know if you can run 920 on a Dual Xeon board ?

TB


Are you serious?
It depends on the case not the MB and you will need 2, one for each cpu duh!


----------



## TechSoldier

Dude settle down, he just joined.

viscon,
Like Ivan TSI mentioned, it will all depend on the case. If your case has enough room for two 120mm fan setups and those areas are close to each CPU, it should work. If you are planning to do some serious overclocking or want to water cool the GPUs, I'd suggest going the custom loop route as they provide better cooling and you can expand your setup as needed.


----------



## spinal_chord

That's what i thought, give the guy a chance, maybe he knows he needs two but like already mentioned take a look at your case bud to see if you have room for two rads.

Dave.


----------



## fishhawk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14654977*
> Adolf, hmm. I had R2 once.
> Hmm.
> Just what I would do if I were in your position.
> Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1450rpm 2x front intake 1x rear exhaust
> X-Silent 140mm bottom intake
> And put your 920 as intake on one of the top slots so it'll get fresh air.


Remember hot air rises no matter how much you have blowing into the case-very few will ever get if any better temps by pulling air in from the top. Plus you will be blow hot air on top of your vid card.


----------



## flaxseedoil1000

Is there a chart that shows good / bad temps based on cpu / speed, etc?

First ever build and I have no idea if my temps are good, ok or bad.

Running Prime 95 cpu seems to settle about 20c over ambient.

Right now ambient is 22c and cpu is idling at 28c, southbridge is 36c and case is 31c.


----------



## Raephen

Flax,

Those temps look mighty fine to me.
I dunno if there are any charts etc., but I use a simple rule of thumb: anything over 50 C needs improving (except maybe the GPU... those puppies could handle close to 100 C without too much worries).
I'll be getting an am3+ board with a (for now) phenom II x4 965 next week, and Iwould consider myself lucky if I - with my 620 + 2scythe slip streams - got the temps you posted for your system.

Cheers!


----------



## flaxseedoil1000

Thx Raephen

I asked about a chart because I can imagine everyone asking"how are my temps?" over and over again.

I have never installed a cooler on a cpu and had no idea how much to tighten it down, but I guess it came out o.k.

thx again


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Hey peoples,

You'll have to give me a chance to gets sigs and things organized. It has been some time since I have ventured into forums.

Antec Kulhler 920 should be here tomorrow or the next day.

What was my bedroom media box turned into overclocked mission just to get it be able to play black ops. Till that point I had not gamed in 5 years Im guessing, e7400 with a little custom cheap arse cooler turned into running at around 4100mhzs.



After weeks of constant punishment, it was time to retire my favorite box and build a simple cost affective gaming/bed room media box. Building pc's dont have to cost the world as long as you build it to suit your applications you intend to use it for.










Old box.

New Build.


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams




----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Lol so painful, with imageShack,



















Specs are as following,

*GEIL 16GB KIT DDR3 1600

*INTEL CORE i7 2600K 3.4GHz

*5x SEAGATE BARRACUDA 3.5" GREEN 2TB 5900/64MB/SATA3

*2x wd 500's in raid 0,

Sure you guys can work out the Little things.

I'm sure alot of people are going to ask why media storage isnt in raid? Simple reason, cost of drives are very cheap. I replace drives once every 1.0 - 1.5 years, and unless your willing to buy drives that are built to handle Raid year in year out. Using cheap eco/green drives is not clever.

Sorry for breaking post up was painful for me, waiting for pics to upload.


----------



## Raephen

No problem.
And if I might give a tip: connecting the pump of the 620 to a PWM (four pin) fan connector is ok. It'll just keep chugging allong at full speed (inaudible).
But the stock fan, on the other hand, at it's full speed, is annoying. I replaced it, but in a flash off "brilliance" after I went and bought a new fan, I thought about connecting it to a three pin connector on my mobo. Sure enough, I could control it's speed now. Though I haven't tried this with the stock fan, I imagine that somewhere in it's 800-2000 rpm range it's good enough.

So the bottom line is: PWM is fine for the pump, but connect your fan elsewhere to control it.

Cheers!
Raephen


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quick update, will have full pictures and bench marks soon as Im done.


----------



## TechSoldier

Its only a matter of time before you start looking for alternate fan solutions


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

lol, I'm quite happy with the noise levels. My two dual xeon setups makes this sound whisper quite. 2600k running at 4600mhzs temps levels are around 60-65c, way to tired to think tonight.


----------



## TechSoldier

If you're not putting a heavy load on the CPU you are right, the noise isn't all that bad. In my case I'm running games on max settings and without some headphones, it can get a little loud.

Overall though, the 920 is a great performer. I just saw a guy with a 240mm XSPC setup and his temps were the same as mine.


----------



## vdn20

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sil3nt_dr3ams;14720822*
> Quick update, will have full pictures and bench marks soon as Im done.


I'm curious, what case is that? Thanks


----------



## lagittaja

Fractal Design R2/3

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14728414*
> Fractal Design R2/3
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


You did what with who?


----------



## lagittaja

Que?

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## PB4UGO

Question...i'm wondering if it's a good idea to add a very small reservoir with an extra tube to my 620? i found a 3.5" bay res on frozencpu that i'd like to possibly use to add something else visual on the front of my case, and an increase in cooling would be icing on the cake.

i know a 3.5" bay res is tiny and won't add a lot of fluid to the mix, but on my Lian Li A05, it would be a nice way to occupy the front 3.5" bay.

would the 620's pump be affected much by the extra water/tubing?


----------



## gordonash

Its been 6 years since i upgraded and the i7 system im building will be using the Antec 620. Ive read through the thread a few times now but am still unsure of what fan i should get to replace the stock one?

I only have the room for the one fan so cant do a push/pull configuration. The Scythe GT 1850 seems to be thought well off but it only pushes 57cfm compared to the stock fans 81cfm so im guessing thats a nono on its own?

Any other single fan replacement recommendations would be appreciated. I like my pc to be quiet but i dont want it to start melting on me


----------



## lagittaja

Get the GT.
End of story.

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## Neet_za

Hey guys;
heres my 620







setup
2x CoolerMaster Xtraflo - 94cfm - 2200rpm fans Push/Pull config


----------



## gordonash

I was planning on doing what this guy has done (he has same case as me, a lian li pc-a04 with rear 80mm fan hole) he has used metal mounting brackets i think which im assuming is really bad as most the air us going to bounce back in case but im guessing a plastic 80mm to 120mm fan adaptor isnt going to hold the weight of the cooler and liquid? would appreciate some opinions on this.

Aluminium ones are available and also would also help the cooling a little im guessing because of the metal to metal contact between radiator and case but i cant for the life of me find them in the UK and cant justify the price of importing for such a minor part.

I know i can use the top 120mm blow hole for the radiator but thats my fall back plan if i cant make this work. I like the idea of having the cpu vent out the back and a separate fan on the blowhole getting rid of heat accumulating at top of case.

Suggestions would be appreciated.


----------



## Vowels

Hey guys, I was wondering how much a 620 benefits from being in push-pull compared to using just one fan? Thinking of getting a 620 for an mATX build and not sure if I should use a single GT AP-15 or go push pull.


----------



## dioxholster

The manual that comes with it is very much useless. I got this problem, the metal bracket thing is supposed to be loosely screwed but how so? Its not gripping on the mobo, whenever i place the cpu thing and twist it pushes the bracket out of place. Whats the best way to do this? Ive seen youtube vids where they already have the screws in the bracket before placing it on the board for it to grip into the holes. Also for the tubes, initially I wanted to have the front section of the cpu cooler where the tubes are attached to be facing the top fans and blocking it; is that bad? If i have it facing to the side, the RAM side, would that be a better position for it?


----------



## jak3z

You have to use the screws and screw it a bit just so it holds.

Should be like this: [backplate][motherboard][blue/green spacers][metal ring] now you insert the long black screw into the blue/green spacer and screw it a bit just so it holds, you get the pump inside it, rotate, and finish screwing the 4 screws.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jak3z;14770725*
> You have to use the screws and screw it a bit just so it holds.
> 
> Should be like this: [backplate][motherboard][blue/green spacers][metal ring] now you insert the long black screw into the blue/green spacer and screw it a bit just so it holds, you get the pump inside it, rotate, and finish screwing the 4 screws.


so i should have the screws hold into the holes in the mobo so they wont ever move? I thought this wouldnt leave enough space for the pump to twist inside.


----------



## dioxholster

and does anyone have their fan as intake? Antec blog recommends it for better cooling yet their manual does not.

http://blog.antec.com/cooling/asetek-air-flow-matters/

Also they state their fans were designed with push config in mind but the cover on the box tells a different story!


----------



## staryoshi

I use my push-pull solution in an exhaust config. I had tried to use it as an intake with the h50 and h70 and saw no difference in temperatures. If your internal case temperature is abnormally high, using an intake config may be beneficial. Otherwise, it's a wash IMO.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;14772315*
> I use my push-pull solution in an exhaust config. I had tried to use it as an intake with the h50 and h70 and saw no difference in temperatures. If your internal case temperature is abnormally high, using an intake config may be beneficial. Otherwise, it's a wash IMO.


I think i should do exhaust since my psu's fan faces the rear. I'll see what temps i get then. Do you know if the tube gets affected depending on how its positioned in the case? Here are two examples:



















I want to mount it right in a way to not put stress on the tube.


----------



## jak3z

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14770762*
> so i should have the screws hold into the holes in the mobo so they wont ever move? I thought this wouldnt leave enough space for the pump to twist inside.


Yes, you need to screw them very slightly


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jak3z;14772714*
> Yes, you need to screw them very slightly


since i pretty much ruined the paste that was on it, can i try to see if it works first before putting new thermal paste on cpu?


----------



## chronsbons

Quick question,

I am installing a Kuhler 620 right now on a NZXT Vulcan using an nzxt case fan and the fan that comes with the Kuhler. Which should i have doing the pushing and which doing the pulling?


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14771364*
> and does anyone have their fan as intake? Antec blog recommends it for better cooling yet their manual does not.
> 
> http://blog.antec.com/cooling/asetek-air-flow-matters/
> 
> Also they state their fans were designed with push config in mind but the cover on the box tells a different story!


i use mine as intake in push/pull, but it's in a Lian Li A05n, so everything is backwards.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chronsbons;14779049*
> Quick question,
> 
> I am installing a Kuhler 620 right now on a NZXT Vulcan using an nzxt case fan and the fan that comes with the Kuhler. Which should i have doing the pushing and which doing the pulling?


until you can get 2 identical fans running, i would put the stronger fan in push, so it can "assist" the weaker fan's pulling. but really, it'll depend on the overall airflow of your case. you may find you get better temps the other way around.


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14772693*
> I think i should do exhaust since my psu's fan faces the rear. I'll see what temps i get then. Do you know if the tube gets affected depending on how its positioned in the case? Here are two examples:
> 
> I want to mount it right in a way to not put stress on the tube.


Personally, I keep my tubes as far away from the hottest component in my PC (Graphics Card) as possible.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;14780293*
> Personally, I keep my tubes as far away from the hottest component in my PC (Graphics Card) as possible.


That makes sense when the gpu is the closest to the tubes, but the way it is for me the sound card occupies the first PCI slot so chances are with the tubes coming from the bottom it will be resting on the sound card instead. I cant see that affecting the GPU right? just the sound card.


----------



## staryoshi

I also think it looks better in the orientation that I have the cables. (Up instead of down, that is)

A sound card puts out a bit of heat as well, but it should be negligible imo.


----------



## dioxholster

if my case allows it i will try the rad top orientation. I dont know if i asked this but will making it intake introduce more dust than usual?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14784457*
> if my case allows it i will try the rad top orientation. I dont know if i asked this but will making it intake introduce more dust than usual?


I would think so. Any intake fans will pull in dust, especially when your PC is on the floor.


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;14780293*
> Personally, I keep my tubes as far away from the hottest component in my PC (Graphics Card) as possible.


I have a few post's to get through tonight, so i'll post one at a time. Okay that sounds great in theory but the tubes are a rubberized compound make them a great insulator.

If anything you've created resistance for water flow, your "tubes" being at the top of your radiator is meaning your pump is working harder to circulate water. Doesn't it make sense to create a path with the least amount of resistance?


----------



## gordonash

Still trying to find out if a plastic 80mm to 120mm fan converter mounted vertically will hold the weight of the radiator. What do people think?

Thanks.


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14741548*
> Question...i'm wondering if it's a good idea to add a very small reservoir with an extra tube to my 620? i found a 3.5" bay res on frozencpu that i'd like to possibly use to add something else visual on the front of my case, and an increase in cooling would be icing on the cake.
> 
> i know a 3.5" bay res is tiny and won't add a lot of fluid to the mix, but on my Lian Li A05, it would be a nice way to occupy the front 3.5" bay.
> 
> would the 620's pump be affected much by the extra water/tubing?


No way, very silly idea. Look at the size of a pump on a say a swiftec or danger den water cooling kit . Antec have designed this system to circulate a small volume of water in a continuous cycle. If you were to add a reservoir it would slow down the flow of water meaning your water will be slower flowing thru your water block meaning its going to be taking alot more heat.

Reservoirs on proper water-cooling systems are there to create the extra volume of water required to keep the pump happy.

Example http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_296&products_id=12667 800L an hour?

800L of flow an hour, Its not a pressure rated pump its a flow rated pump. Its cable of flowing 800l of water an hour if its has the capacity to flow, water going thru a radiator slows the flow there fore the reservoir job is to maintain a constant supply of water.


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordonash;14785383*
> Still trying to find out if a plastic 80mm to 120mm fan converter mounted vertically will hold the weight of the radiator. What do people think?
> 
> Thanks.


|

You want to mount the radiator in the top of your case making the pump work harder then replace to 120mm fan with a 80mm ?


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

This is where I'm at the moment. Might post some bench marks later. I'm waiting on a few sets of pwm fans. All being fans designed around maximum cfm and minimal noise.


----------



## gordonash

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sil3nt_dr3ams;14785435*
> |
> 
> You want to mount the radiator in the top of your case making the pump work harder then replace to 120mm fan with a 80mm ?


I want to mount the radiator and fan on a rear 80mm exhaust hole which would be vertical not horizontal.


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Working on a shroud over graphics cards to be able vent thru two 80mm fans thru case door which i'll make. Plenty of ambient air flowing thru radiator .


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordonash;14785970*
> I want to mount the radiator and fan on a rear 80mm exhaust hole which would be vertical not horizontal.


your going to bottle neck air flow


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sil3nt_dr3ams;14785122*
> I have a few post's to get through tonight, so i'll post one at a time. Okay that sounds great in theory but the tubes are a rubberized compound make them a great insulator.
> 
> If anything you've created resistance for water flow, your "tubes" being at the top of your radiator is meaning your pump is working harder to circulate water. Doesn't it make sense to create a path with the least amount of resistance?


I am no WC expert, but given the short distance the water is traveling and the petite size of the radiator, I would not expect that to significantly hinder performance given the quality of the pump. (A WC guru should validate/disprove this claim







) It looks great, it runs near-silently with push-pull GT AP14s, and performance is strong... So I am satisfied.


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sil3nt_dr3ams;14786045*
> Working on a shroud over graphics cards to be able vent thru two 80mm fans thru case door which i'll make. Plenty of ambient air flowing thru radiator .


just an observation here but hot air rises







you have your setup backwards


----------



## TechSoldier

^^^ LOL I was thinking the same thing.


----------



## PB4UGO

Has anyone here replaced the tubes on their Kuhler? I'm looking to do something similar to the popular Corsair H50 mod by using clear or white tubing with a small 2nd reservoir, but i can't find any info on anyone who's done it. I'm not gutsy enough to take the thing apart without input from someone who has, in case there's a design feature that's impossible to work around. Thanks!


----------



## MaroonZ24

Little dirty, plus I need to clean it. Very easy to install Idle temps at 20c


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14792038*
> Has anyone here replaced the tubes on their Kuhler? I'm looking to do something similar to the popular Corsair H50 mod by using clear or white tubing with a small 2nd reservoir, but i can't find any info on anyone who's done it. I'm not gutsy enough to take the thing apart without input from someone who has, in case there's a design feature that's impossible to work around. Thanks!


nevermind...found a good H70 mod blog...it's identical to the 620...so there i go...gotta go place an order


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaroonZ24;14792068*
> pic
> 
> Little dirty, plus I need to clean it. Very easy to install Idle temps at 20c


20c ??? Hows you room temperature, around 10°C?


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za;14790431*
> just an observation here but hot air rises
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> you have your setup backwards


High volume CFM fan pulls from top of case and another High CFM fan in the buttom of the case extracts. Creating a pull, works really well . Worked out using a infrared hand help thermometer.


----------



## Kutocer

Hey I recently got a 920. idle temps are around 40c and load is around 60c I was thinking that the idle is is a little high?


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutocer;14794849*
> Hey I recently got a 920. idle temps are around 40c and load is around 60c I was thinking that the idle is is a little high?


?

what is your ambient temp? also not sure how the intel goes about its "powersaving" but does your CPU stay at the same clock freq all the time..?
and are the screw on the waterblock tight enough, making proper contact, make sure you tighten the screws even-ally, try use your grip on the screw driver to judge the amount of torque you need to tighten each screw but not too tight otherwise you might crack or crush the CPU


----------



## sil3nt_dr3ams

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi;14787827*
> I am no WC expert, but given the short distance the water is traveling and the petite size of the radiator, I would not expect that to significantly hinder performance given the quality of the pump. (A WC guru should validate/disprove this claim
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) It looks great, it runs near-silently with push-pull GT AP14s, and performance is strong... So I am satisfied.


Okay lets work on this a little further then, I'm currently working on water to refrigerated glycol heat exchanging unit. Working around temps in/out that wont create moisture. 920 is a quick fix solution.

I've built two water cooled pc's using dangerden and swiftec water blocks/pumps. I did forget to add that a reservoir makes it easier to fill and bleed a system.

Quality of the pump does not mean a thing, design and flow of the pump and specifications is another.


----------



## TechSoldier

^^^ how could you possibly say quality of the pump does not mean a thing??????

Unless you are ok with your pump dying on you while your processor goes up in smoke, I'd say quality is one of the top things to consider especially when it comes to reliability. Sure, flow and pressure play an equally important role but you don't see anyone using pumps that tend to have a short life span.


----------



## TechSoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutocer;14794849*
> Hey I recently got a 920. idle temps are around 40c and load is around 60c I was thinking that the idle is is a little high?


We need more specs (ie: processor, overclock, case, etc) to be able to tell you if your idle temps are within reason based on your system. Just remember, idle temps aren't that important, you really want to focus on load temps, which in your case look good. If you haven't done any overclocking and plan to, just remember that 75C is the general temp you should stay under at 100% load.


----------



## staryoshi

I used the term "quality" to broadly refer to its specifications, reliability and any other attributes of merit







As I said, I am no authoritative source on the subject (GPUs and other hardware are my domains). I have no need to squeeze extra performance out of the AiO system or CPU, as its performance is beyond satisfactory and few if any tasks I perform are CPU-limited. The main reason I went back to an AiO system is because my various air coolers block too much motherboard real estate from view.


----------



## Blinkydamo

Hi guys, new to the forum and need some help if possible.

I have just installed a 620, I am using push/pull exhaust with the stock fan pulling and a XSF-F1252 pushing (75CFM/2.41mmH2O).

I am running a Q6600 G0 at 3Ghz on 1.25v on a 680i lt with the P33 bios. This is in the Cooler Master CM690 (first one)

My problem is the very high temps I am getting, they equal the ageing Arctic Freezer Pro I removed. Idle is 40:40:36:39 and load with Prime95 is 63:63:58:59 using Coretemp and Open Hardware Monitor.

Like I said I got idle temps the same with my air cooler, was hoping to run around 55-60c at near on 3.5Ghz.

Anyone got any ideas how I can solve this?

Cheers in advance,

Blinky


----------



## TechSoldier

First thing I would do is match the airflow of the push/pull fans. You might have one fan working against the other which may be causing slightly higher temps. The other suggestion may be to re-seat the pump unless you are confident its on there good.


----------



## Blinkydamo

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TechSoldier*


First thing I would do is match the airflow of the push/pull fans. You might have one fan working against the other which may be causing slightly higher temps. The other suggestion may be to re-seat the pump unless you are confident its on there good.


Hi, have tried the cooler with only one fan and get the same results. Have tried re-seating the pump twice now, I think I have it on well but there is little to let you know if it's on well. Have you any tips for getting it on perfectly?

Cheers

Blinkydamo.

Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## MaroonZ24

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH;14793890*
> 20c ??? Hows you room temperature, around 10°C?


Ambient temp in house is 70 Degree's F


----------



## dioxholster

with one fan exhaust and no oc, idle around 36c, im using real temp, not sure how to read it. sorry using oskeyboard. oh and since i got no games now to test load what should i use?


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MaroonZ24;14804383*
> Ambient temp in house is 70 Degree's F


you're mostly getting the reading from CORE temps NOT the CPU temps, core temps are electronically estimated and are about 8~12c off thus they are VERY inaccurate, so add said amount and that is your CPU temp from the diode.
Get "Open hardware Monitor" and look for CPU or compare the core temps from programs and there's your proof








mine is 18c if I used core temp, but the CORRECT temp is 30c


----------



## eaglesdare

i need help ASAP - please !!!

may i modify a antec kuhler 620, use it's block/pump with a thermochill pa.120.2 + microres v2

i mean, is the pump strong enough for this ?

thnaks a lot !


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesdare;14806713*
> i need help ASAP - please !!!
> 
> may i modify a antec kuhler 620, use it's block/pump with a thermochill pa.120.2 + microres v2
> 
> i mean, is the pump strong enough for this ?
> 
> thnaks a lot !


you can do whatever you want







?
you might also be the 1st to try whatever you're doing
tell us how it goes









a pump is a pump aslong as the resistance isnt too heavy (going to far up) then it should be fine try use gravity to your advantage

Edit:
Now that I look at your radiator that you want, I don't think this pump is strong enough try get 2nd pump just push the liquid through the rad...
goodluck


----------



## eaglesdare

neet zaa - what about this :

* i buy 2x kuhler 620

* one pump/block on cpu and the other on GPU - and make the loop conecting one on the beginign ad the other one on the end

* my chassis is a stacker 810 and i would mount the radiator up front on the 5,25" bays

thanks !


----------



## TechSoldier

Are you planning to use both radiators?


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesdare;14806864*
> neet zaa - what about this :
> 
> * i buy 2x kuhler 620
> 
> * one pump/block on cpu and the other on GPU - and make the loop conecting one on the beginign ad the other one on the end
> 
> * my chassis is a stacker 810 and i would mount the radiator up front on the 5,25" bays
> 
> thanks !


unfortunately there are no technical specs on the pump, so no info on the pump pressure and liters per/hour, so I would be lying if I said it would work, but doesn't mean Im right or wrong, only way to find out is to try it but it might work but that rad looks pretty beefy (big)

why not just go for full custom kit? just to be safe


----------



## TechSoldier

eaglesdare, what exactly are you trying to accomplish? It might be worth just picking up a XSPC kit along with a universal VGA cooler and be done.


----------



## dioxholster

so lets get one thing straight, how did you all install that thing??! lol seriously. I followed the instructions and all but it still, the bracket wont loosen enough to fit the pump and when its loose it tips over. There must be a safe method for this.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesdare;14806713*
> i need help ASAP - please !!!
> 
> may i modify a antec kuhler 620, use it's block/pump with a thermochill pa.120.2 + microres v2
> 
> i mean, is the pump strong enough for this ?
> 
> thnaks a lot !


i have the parts on order to do this next week...same res you noted...i'm just gonna use the stock radiator for now, but i'll let you know how it goes. parts should be here wednesday. i'll be switching out to clear tubing with white anti-kink coil...should look cool if nothing else


----------



## TechSoldier

So you guys spent $120 on two 620 to do the CPU and GPU?

Why not just get the XSPC 240 kit:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/11743/ex-wat-159/XSPC_Rasa_750_RS240_Universal_CPU_Water_Cooling_Kit_-HOT.html?tl=g30c321s1310

And a GPU block:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5297/ex-blc-329/Danger_Den_Maze5_Video_Card_Liquid_Cooling_Block.html?tl=g30c87s143

A lot more expandability and only costs a little more.


----------



## PB4UGO

no....as i mentoned....all i bought was tubing and a res...$30 is all i spent. ive had my 620 for a while now. it's just more for fun for me. not expecting big gains.

for the other user...yeah, you have a good point.


----------



## Blinkydamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za;14806641*
> you're mostly getting the reading from CORE temps NOT the CPU temps, core temps are electronically estimated and are about 8~12c off thus they are VERY inaccurate, so add said amount and that is your CPU temp from the diode.
> Get "Open hardware Monitor" and look for CPU or compare the core temps from programs and there's your proof
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> mine is 18c if I used core temp, but the CORRECT temp is 30c


I use both core temp and open hardware to read the temps and both give me the same reading.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## tfoss

Wife's away today so took the time to lap my Kuhler 920 and core i7 860 CPU. Have had experience lapping the Corsair H70 so this was not my first time...thought I'd share my observations.

A razorblade test revealed the 920 has a *very* apparent convex base, with the peak in the middle of the "spiral" fine-groove pattern in the base. Took 8 sheets of 400 grit paper to sand down the peak and flatten the base so that sharpie marked "X"'s sanded away evenly.

Also realized I had to disassemble the 920 to keep everything as flat as possible (the swinging momentum of the rad wasn't so easy to resist while moving the base back and forth across sandpaper). Gonna have to apply the H70-reservoir mod to the 920 now that its now emptied and apart.

Wife arrived home early so couldn't finish CPU lapping and reassemble for testing (she hates all my modding projects!)...will keep everyone posted.

So, have others found the base of the 920 to be very poorly flat? Even though my Corsair H70's base was quite grooved and rough finished, it was very flat to begin with and sanded down to an optically flat surface with comparatively no effort.


----------



## PB4UGO

i dunno...i wouldn't trust the coldplate to be perfectly flat anymore than i would a razor blade. when i was building drumkits, i would use a slab of granite and a flashlight to check edges, but it's a different beast i suppose.


----------



## eaglesdare

i would like to have a high performance watercooler, but DEAD SILENT and as compact as possible.

so that's why H620 block + thermochill + microres V2

any doubts thermochil is the best for power and silence ? then take a look at the techincal specs and reviews...


----------



## tfoss

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14812562*
> i dunno...i wouldn't trust the coldplate to be perfectly flat anymore than i would a razor blade. when i was building drumkits, i would use a slab of granite and a flashlight to check edges, but it's a different beast i suppose.


When placing the CPU IHS on the 920 coldplate surface (upsidedown), I could see light around the edges, and I could barely *just* see it rock as it "perched" on the high point in the middle. OK, that may not have been that perceptible, but certainly the amount of lapping work it took to remove all that copper was!! Three advil for my aching shoulder...


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tfoss;14812782*
> When placing the CPU IHS on the 920 coldplate surface (upsidedown), I could see light around the edges, and I could barely *just* see it rock as it "perched" on the high point in the middle. OK, that may not have been that perceptible, but certainly the amount of lapping work it took to remove all that copper was!! Three advil for my aching shoulder...


haha...well, hopefully that amount of work will be beneficial. i'm taking my 620 out this wednesday to add a reservoir and switch out the tubing, so i may check tolerances on my plate/cpu while i'm at it...

i'll take the advil before hand, and drink beer during the procedure, just to be sure


----------



## TechSoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *eaglesdare;14812753*
> i would like to have a high performance watercooler, but DEAD SILENT and as compact as possible.
> 
> so that's why H620 block + thermochill + microres V2
> 
> any doubts thermochil is the best for power and silence ? then take a look at the techincal specs and reviews...


If you are talking about the coolant, power and silence has nothing to do with it. Power and silence comes from the pump and low rpm fans. Aside from that there is no reason to use coolant aside for asthetics. Distilled water is your answer.


----------



## Kutocer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSoldier;14795960*
> We need more specs (ie: processor, overclock, case, etc) to be able to tell you if your idle temps are within reason based on your system. Just remember, idle temps aren't that important, you really want to focus on load temps, which in your case look good. If you haven't done any overclocking and plan to, just remember that 75C is the general temp you should stay under at 100% load.


System specs at bottom of my post.

Decided to reseat the block and BAM done the job. idles around 35-40c and under load around 62c.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutocer;14815945*
> System specs at bottom of my post.
> 
> Decided to reseat the block and BAM done the job. idles around 35-40c and under load around 62c.


how did you fix it? what was wrong with it at first?? btw, i got the same exact temps as you.


----------



## Kutocer

lol tbh I didn't have enough paste on before my bad!!!

Just turned Chillcontrol to extreme while running Prime and the max hasn't gone past 57c so far too bloody loud though!!!


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutocer;14816052*
> lol tbh I didn't have enough paste on before my bad!!!
> 
> Just turned Chillcontrol to extreme while running Prime and the max hasn't gone past 57c so far too bloody loud though!!!


how much paste did you have on before? what did you use?


----------



## Kutocer

Not enough lol, thought I had put enough on, when I took it off I saw it didn't cover the whole chip so this time around I spread it even all over the block.

Using Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond as it is all I have for now but gonna look into something else.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kutocer;14816662*
> Not enough lol, thought I had put enough on, when I took it off I saw it didn't cover the whole chip so this time around I spread it even all over the block.
> 
> Using Antec Formula 7 Nano Diamond as it is all I have for now but gonna look into something else.


Im guessing you had a pea-sized amount or a dot in the center before? The compound you used is thick so it makes sense it didnt spread much.


----------



## Kutocer

Yeah did do that before. very thick but lesson learnt. Very happy with it now. Temps holding good for what I use PC for and so far nothing above 50c and runs pretty quiet. Gonna move on to overclocking the memory next if all holds well on the cpu.


----------



## Raephen

Well, I've had my new system (Asus M5A99X + Phenom 965 C3) up and running now for a week and I have to say: I'm a happy camper








Though originally I set out to attach the 2 PWM Scythe Slipstreams (1300rpm) to my 620 (which I did, and on low they were nice and quiet with good cooling - but when they spun up they... well, lets keep it at 'they spun up') I purchased a Gentle Typhoon (AP-15).
I have it connected to the build in fan controller on my white 600T case (also new) and even on minimal my GT+620 keep my cpu cool.
The Phenom II x4 965 I undervolted to 1,30 Vcore (on stock speed an undervolt close to 1,20 is doable) and raised the multiplier to 18, resulting in 3,6GHz, and I'm happy with that.
I've attached screens of some stressing I did yesterday. You'll note that in HWmonitor the cpu got up to 55 C. One is after hours of in place ftts in Prime95, the other is after I shut it down to let it cool down for a bit before rebooting and taking the screenie.
That it did while I was also stressing my GPU to the max with minimal fan rotation (20% in AMD Vision Control Center), which explains the 71C you see for my max GPU (Vapor-X does it's job).

All in all, I'm pleased by the 30 C idle and low 50 C load temps I'm getting.

Cheers!


----------



## Blinkydamo

Hi guys,

Still having huge temp problems here. I have re-seated the block 3 time with the stock paste and have now put some Antec Formula 5 on it and am still getting idle temps of 41-43c at stock speeds.

If I overclock to 3Ghz then the idle temps are between 48-51c with load up at 62-63. Tried at 3.2Ghz (400x8) and the temps spiked upwards of 70c.

The temp in the room is 22c but open hardware states 32c board temp. Is this the problem?

I have a 140mm and a 120mm exhaust at the top, the 620 exhaust at the back, 120mm intake bottom side and a 120mm intake on the bottom and front.

Any ideas would be great,

Blinky


----------



## Raephen

Forgot to mention: Ambiant temps were 20 C or just above


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkydamo;14817805*
> Hi guys,
> 
> Still having huge temp problems here. I have re-seated the block 3 time with the stock paste and have now put some Antec Formula 5 on it and am still getting idle temps of 41-43c at stock speeds.
> 
> If I overclock to 3Ghz then the idle temps are between 48-51c with load up at 62-63. Tried at 3.2Ghz (400x8) and the temps spiked upwards of 70c.
> 
> The temp in the room is 22c but open hardware states 32c board temp. Is this the problem?
> 
> I have a 140mm and a 120mm exhaust at the top, the 620 exhaust at the back, 120mm intake bottom side and a 120mm intake on the bottom and front.
> 
> Any ideas would be great,
> 
> Blinky


Someone else had the same problem, he fixed it by putting more paste but spread it out by hand or something not sure. Did the paste cover most of the surface?


----------



## Blinkydamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14818853*
> Someone else had the same problem, he fixed it by putting more paste but spread it out by hand or something not sure. Did the paste cover most of the surface?


Have place paste so that it covers the whole CPU. Just wish I could get the temps down, my old freezer pro got these temps that way I thought I'd get the 620.

Sent from my HTC Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## tehdef

Hey guys,

I picked up a 920 about 2 weeks ago to cool my 2500k. It's running at stock clocking right now. I have a cosmos S case, which has my kuhler running on intake push pull into the chassis, with 3 basic case fans on top exhaust, a Kaze on the floor intake, a intake fan in the front, and a 200mm intake on the side. I have 2 GT's 1850's on the way to replace the stock fans.

My biggest concerns are my temps, and if they are normal, and how I should improve them.

I've been playing some games that put me at about 50-70% CPU load during gaming, which generally has me running at around 38degrees water temp with 45-49 core temp. I've been using one of the recommended programs + hwmonitor to check the core temps. I'm not sure if this is far too high, considering I am not screwing with the voltage at all. Idle, I've seen as low as 29c water temp with 32-35 idle.

Basically though, I wanted to see what you guys think my fan directions should be? I was thinking of moving the cpu fans to exhaust, and then moving gall other fans to intake, including the top fans, and only using my 920, and Video card as exhaust fans. This should drop the internal ambient of the case, since my room is around 74-77f at any given time, and remove the fact that I may be drawing heat from my Video card into the system by having my 920's on intake.

I'm also thinking that due to the cores running as high as they are, my paste may not have been seated fully, even though I did a bit of a spinning action when I put the cooler on (stock paste) to spread it, but may have not done a full spread, so I may loosen the system up and do a bit more spreading w/o lifting the CPU up.

Long post, but I want to make sure this is right, because I'd really like to gun for a 4.3 overclock with stable temps, and have my ram running at 1600, as intended.

Thanks guys, I really appreciate the feedback and insight.


----------



## 66racer

Not sure if anyone here has modded their 920, but its just like the h70. Did a twin radiator mod to mine, worth 6-8c at full load from just a single radiator with resivour. Gaming is also maybe 4-5c cooler, Hoping to push my overclock a little higher now.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehdef;14825194*
> Hey guys,
> 
> I picked up a 920 about 2 weeks ago to cool my 2500k. It's running at stock clocking right now. I have a cosmos S case, which has my kuhler running on intake push pull into the chassis, with 3 basic case fans on top exhaust, a Kaze on the floor intake, a intake fan in the front, and a 200mm intake on the side. I have 2 GT's 1850's on the way to replace the stock fans.
> 
> My biggest concerns are my temps, and if they are normal, and how I should improve them.
> 
> I've been playing some games that put me at about 50-70% CPU load during gaming, which generally has me running at around 38degrees water temp with 45-49 core temp. I've been using one of the recommended programs + hwmonitor to check the core temps. I'm not sure if this is far too high, considering I am not screwing with the voltage at all. Idle, I've seen as low as 29c water temp with 32-35 idle.
> 
> Basically though, I wanted to see what you guys think my fan directions should be? I was thinking of moving the cpu fans to exhaust, and then moving gall other fans to intake, including the top fans, and only using my 920, and Video card as exhaust fans. This should drop the internal ambient of the case, since my room is around 74-77f at any given time, and remove the fact that I may be drawing heat from my Video card into the system by having my 920's on intake.
> 
> I'm also thinking that due to the cores running as high as they are, my paste may not have been seated fully, even though I did a bit of a spinning action when I put the cooler on (stock paste) to spread it, but may have not done a full spread, so I may loosen the system up and do a bit more spreading w/o lifting the CPU up.
> 
> Long post, but I want to make sure this is right, because I'd really like to gun for a 4.3 overclock with stable temps, and have my ram running at 1600, as intended.
> 
> Thanks guys, I really appreciate the feedback and insight.


Im not running an intel so cant tell you if thats good or not but if you need a bit more cooling try shin-etsu x23 thermal paste, there are some other better ones but my local frys stocks it and it dropped my temps down by 2-3*c overal idle/load. I personally run the radiator as an exhaust which I think the book even says to do so. Corsairs h70 says run it as an intake, the h70 and 920 are extremly similar but 920 is I guess the newer generation plate. when I switched from the h70 I didnt even need to swap the mounting brackets. I eventually added a resivour which helped with short term cooling greatly but long term as in over an hour of gaming in an 80F room temps eventually get back up there, so I added a second radiator. Look up the h70 or h50 mod to find all you need. The antec 920 is a great cooler and Im sure your temps will show it, I never ran it with the stock paste just artic silver and shin-etsu.

edit...even stock the h70 and 920 did a great job cooling, I only modded to try to push my cpu even harder with great temps.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Blinkydamo;14819183*
> Have place paste so that it covers the whole CPU. Just wish I could get the temps down, my old freezer pro got these temps that way I thought I'd get the 620.
> 
> Sent from my HTC Desire HD using Tapatalk


Maybe you could have the fan on intake? At default reviews say it hits 60-65c at load.


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer;14826743*
> Not sure if anyone here has modded their 920, but its just like the h70. Did a twin radiator mod to mine, worth 6-8c at full load from just a single radiator with resivour. Gaming is also maybe 4-5c cooler, Hoping to push my overclock a little higher now.


nice!
sure you get around 4.5ghz on that nicely!
whats your current clock at atm?


----------



## Blinkydamo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14827885*
> Maybe you could have the fan on intake? At default reviews say it hits 60-65c at load.


Will give it a try when I get a minute, build a shed at the moment.

Cheers

Blinky

Sent from my HTC Desire HD using Tapatalk


----------



## john1016

So I should be will be getting the 920 in a few days, was wondering if the fans I have will burn out my extreme4 gen3 mobo header?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706036

And also where is the best place in my HAF932 to place them? Was thinking as a rear exhaust or top intake, but not sure what space to use. Wanted to put the rad w/fans right next to the rear 140mm fan, but if they are right there would they disrupt the airflow to that fan from within the case?

Cant wait to get it running and join the club, lol. Should be great


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za;14830858*
> nice!
> sure you get around 4.5ghz on that nicely!
> whats your current clock at atm?


Thanks dude, Currently working on getting 4332mhz prime stable. It stable enough to play crysis2 and run a media benchmark from customPC but prime beats it up. I think its my motherboard thats really limiting me (msi). Playfully set to 4500 and it started windows but freezes, might be able to stabilize that with voltage but want to work on 4332 first


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john1016;14834528*
> So I should be will be getting the 920 in a few days, was wondering if the fans I have will burn out my extreme4 gen3 mobo header?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835706036
> 
> And also where is the best place in my HAF932 to place them? Was thinking as a rear exhaust or top intake, but not sure what space to use. Wanted to put the rad w/fans right next to the rear 140mm fan, but if they are right there would they disrupt the airflow to that fan from within the case?
> 
> Cant wait to get it running and join the club, lol. Should be great


Im not sure it will work as a top intake setup since it will probably hit the ram and or heatsink. Rear exhaust is how I used it before modding it.

I gotta look into those fans, are they what most people run in here?


----------



## MarKeR

Guys

Looking at these temps for a X6 2.8 at stock would you say they were ok?

Also I have attached the radiator to the fan that came with my ndew Silverstone RV03 case, it has 2 x 180mm fans blowing in from the floor and the rad is attached to the top rad as an exhaust! Would it be worth my while reattaching the original Antec fan to use as a push fan on teh inside of the rad?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MarKeR;14843033*
> Guys
> 
> Looking at these temps for a X6 2.8 at stock would you say they were ok?
> 
> Also I have attached the radiator to the fan that came with my ndew Silverstone RV03 case, it has 2 x 180mm fans blowing in from the floor and the rad is attached to the top rad as an exhaust! Would it be worth my while reattaching the original Antec fan to use as a push fan on teh inside of the rad?
> QUOTE]
> 
> Im sure it would cool even to a lower temp if the room temp was lower


----------



## ZeusAudio

Just picked up my Kuhler 620 and a couple fans and had a question. How should I connect the fans to my motherboard (Asus P8P67)? Should I plug one fan into the pump and the pump to the CPU/other fan to the chasis? Should I plug the pump into the cpu and both fans into a chasis? Just confused on how to get the best airflow and circulation using the pump. Thanks for your help.


----------



## vortech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeusAudio;14848946*
> Just picked up my Kuhler 620 and a couple fans and had a question. How should I connect the fans to my motherboard (Asus P8P67)? Should I plug one fan into the pump and the pump to the CPU/other fan to the chasis? Should I plug the pump into the cpu and both fans into a chasis? Just confused on how to get the best airflow and circulation using the pump. Thanks for your help.


Yeah, I actually picked up a y-splitter for the fan for my fans and plugged them into chassis 1, the pump runs off of CPU. It allowed me to keep thing clean and control both fans easily.










I tucked the pump fan under the assembly out of sight, all you see is that single wire to the chassis plug, i kept it taught by using the heatsink to apply tension.


----------



## ZeusAudio

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekon;14849125*
> Yeah, I actually picked up a y-splitter for the fan for my fans and plugged them into chassis 1, the pump runs off of CPU. It allowed me to keep thing clean and control both fans easily.
> 
> I tucked the pump fan under the assembly out of sight, all you see is that single wire to the chassis plug, i kept it taught by using the heatsink to apply tension.[/QUOTE]
> 
> Do you have Q-Fan control enabled or disabled for the Chasis/CPU fan?


----------



## vortech

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ZeusAudio;14849274*
> Do you have Q-Fan control enabled or disabled for the Chasis/CPU fan?


I use the ASUS AI Suite's Fan Xpert to control everything. I disabled the CPU control so that it runs 100% 24/7, and set the chassis connector to silent which ramps up from 25 percent at 45 degrees to 100 percent at 75 degrees.


----------



## dioxholster

when idle i could hear a faint buzzing noise, is that normal? And also the top plastic thingy on the pump, the one with the logo is kinda flimsy I hope nothing important is there.


----------



## vortech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dioxholster*


when idle i could hear a faint buzzing noise, is that normal? And also the top plastic thingy on the pump, the one with the logo is kinda flimsy I hope nothing important is there.


Well I also encountered a buzz at first and I looked into online.. People claimed the buzzing was normal and would subside with use. Eventually the buzzing went away but I found the orientation of the pump played a role in how loud it was.. It may have also had to do with the amount of tension on the hoses, so play with the angles of the elbows.


----------



## Rage19420

Ok so I slapped a set of Antec 620's on each of my GTX 480's and front mounted each rad to the front fans on my NZXT Tempest EVO. Works like a charm. However idle temps are at 40c but peak temps are 10c off, one is at 58, the other 68. Used AS5 on both.

Any thoughts why? Retry the the application of AS5?


----------



## TechSoldier

Wow thats warm. My idles on air are around 33C with the fan running only at 30%. I'm thinking a re-seat may be needed. Just curious but are you using push/pull?


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSoldier;14861405*
> Wow thats warm. My idles on air are around 33C with the fan running only at 30%. I'm thinking a re-seat may be needed. Just curious but are you using push/pull?


Yes they are in push pull configuration. I think its a bad seat as well.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSoldier;14861405*
> Wow thats warm. My idles on air are around 33C with the fan running only at 30%. I'm thinking a re-seat may be needed. Just curious but are you using push/pull?


im about the same as he is, around 38c idle but im using just pull config. I think its normal because i installed it twice with same results.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nekon;14849789*
> I use the ASUS AI Suite's Fan Xpert to control everything. I disabled the CPU control so that it runs 100% 24/7, and set the chassis connector to silent which ramps up from 25 percent at 45 degrees to 100 percent at 75 degrees.


I do that too, works hella nice with Fan Xpert.
pump to cpu_fan1
AP-15's to cha_fan1 and cha_fan3
And then cpu fan control turned off, and the fans run at 40% when my rig idles.
Then they ramp up gradually when the cpu loads.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lagittaja;14872698*
> I do that too, works hella nice with Fan Xpert.
> pump to cpu_fan1
> AP-15's to cha_fan1 and cha_fan3
> And then cpu fan control turned off, and the fans run at 40% when my rig idles.
> Then they ramp up gradually when the cpu loads.


Did you use any shround on the rad? And how did you get rid of vibrations with the rad and 2 fans? Silicon frame?

I also have the Antec 620, and planning a sickleflow push, and a swif2 pull on it.


----------



## BlackEyes

i got kuhler h20 620, haf 932, 570 gtx, i7 2600k 4.0ghz,
and im getting really really weird temps, i get at 4.0 ghz 65c max full load, push/pull configartion. idle temps are 38~47, i treid reseat it few times but i get the same temps, what is wrong? 1 fan is connected to the pump, pump connected to cpu and the other fan to the motherboard, i dont get it :\


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackEyes;14876289*
> i got kuhler h20 620, haf 932, 570 gtx, i7 2600k 4.0ghz,
> and im getting really really weird temps, i get at 4.0 ghz 65c max full load, push/pull configartion. idle temps are 38~47, i treid reseat it few times but i get the same temps, what is wrong? 1 fan is connected to the pump, pump connected to cpu and the other fan to the motherboard, i dont get it :\


In my opinion these are normal, but i dont know how much does push/pull add as opposed to just one exhaust or intake. Without OC what did you get?


----------



## BlackEyes

im getting without oc 60c max, i dont get it i see people are getting low temps at 4.5, how come i get 65c at 4.0? :\


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackEyes;14878354*
> im getting without oc 60c max, i dont get it i see people are getting low temps at 4.5, how come i get 65c at 4.0? :\


65c at 4.0 isnt bad, the antec site has theirs at 67c load with pull/push and they made the thing.


----------



## BlackEyes

so how can u explain people getting lower temps with air and higher ghz, and we are getting this?


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackEyes;14879141*
> so how can u explain people getting lower temps with air and higher ghz, and we are getting this?


maybe different CPU, case or fans. You have your fans as intake right? Whats your case? See if people have the same specs as you and see what they are getting.


----------



## BlackEyes

to be honest.. i got ****ty fans.. ;s and the ANTEC one is noisy. so i replaced it, i gotta replac eit, case is haf 932, hm.. airflow is fine. yea probably the fans are the problem. :\
but all i do is gaming, i mean i play games, 4.0ghz wont be any problem to games, right?


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackEyes;14879823*
> to be honest.. i got ****ty fans.. ;s and the ANTEC one is noisy. so i replaced it, i gotta replac eit, case is haf 932, hm.. airflow is fine. yea probably the fans are the problem. :\
> but all i do is gaming, i mean i play games, 4.0ghz wont be any problem to games, right?


4.0ghz is okay, what I meant is that some cpu are hotter than others regardless of how theyre clocked. As for changing fans, you might get better temps, I dont know what others did to get those low temps you speak of. You could go on a wild goose chase and do countless things but at the end get the same temps. I think your temps are fine as long as it doesnt go over 75c. You can try without push/pull and see whats the difference, some people got better temps switching to exhaust because their intake was taking hot air.


----------



## t3haxle

Well I accidentally broke my 720be removing it from the dead crosshair V I got from Asus. After I RMA the board I'm going to use the money to get a 1090t and Kuhler 920 methinks


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t3haxle;14880957*
> Well I accidentally broke my 720be removing it from the dead crosshair V I got from Asus. After I RMA the board I'm going to use the money to get a 1090t and Kuhler 920 methinks


and the question is: how did you manage that?


----------



## t3haxle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14881468*
> and the question is: how did you manage that?


The lock didn't hold the CPU in place as well as I would have hoped while trying to shimmy the HSF off of it. So one of the wiggles ripped the CPU out somehow, which apparently bends the pins.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t3haxle;14882244*
> The lock didn't hold the CPU in place as well as I would have hoped while trying to shimmy the HSF off of it. So one of the wiggles ripped the CPU out somehow, which apparently bends the pins.


I bet you hate that motherboard so much now. But how did the HSF pull the cpu out of its place? Im guessing its because of the paste.


----------



## t3haxle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14883962*
> I bet you hate that motherboard so much now. But how did the HSF pull the cpu out of its place? Im guessing its because of the paste.


Yeah @ both things lol. Figured If I slid it off to the side with a wiggle the seal from the thermal compound would weaken but I guess not. I admit it's my fault more than Asus's on the CPU note, but I'll be swinging with trusty Gigabyte in the future because RMA'ing because of that DRAM thing is a hassle.


----------



## grassh0ppa

I've been looking at Corsairs new products since they've decided to switch from asetek to coolit... It seems like they bet on the wrong horse. They are making up for a lesser product with better (and louder) fans.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *t3haxle;14884265*
> Yeah @ both things lol. Figured If I slid it off to the side with a wiggle the seal from the thermal compound would weaken but I guess not. I admit it's my fault more than Asus's on the CPU note, but I'll be swinging with trusty Gigabyte in the future because RMA'ing because of that DRAM thing is a hassle.


How about you try and have asus buy you a cpu?


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH;14875360*
> Did you use any shround on the rad? And how did you get rid of vibrations with the rad and 2 fans? Silicon frame?
> 
> I also have the Antec 620, and planning a sickleflow push, and a swif2 pull on it.


Yeah, I have a shroud on the push fan.
And no, I don't have any vibrations, as far as I know.
My A05N has some rubber cushions on the fan mount though.
You can see them in this pic
Only vibrations I have come from my hdd's, and it transfers to my quite large wooden table.
Which is kinda annoying since during the week, some cleaning firms guy comes and uses a leaf blower 7AM in the morning, and the vibrations+the sound from the leaf blower resonate together and it bloody hurts in my ears!


----------



## t3haxle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster;14887578*
> How about you try and have asus buy you a cpu?


If they do that's fine by me. ATM I'm just trying to get a refund RMA. Decided to email them at Newegg_Asus_MB or w/e they've been plastering all over those 1 star reviews on Newegg.


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BlackEyes;14876289*
> i got kuhler h20 620, haf 932, 570 gtx, i7 2600k 4.0ghz,
> and im getting really really weird temps, i get at 4.0 ghz 65c max full load, push/pull configartion. idle temps are 38~47, i treid reseat it few times but i get the same temps, what is wrong? 1 fan is connected to the pump, pump connected to cpu and the other fan to the motherboard, i dont get it :\


what is your PUMP speed at ?
The cpu-hearder is most likely throttling the voltage, thinking its a fan...remember keep the pump at fullspeed all the time so plug it into either a full PWR/chassis fan - 3pin on your MB or get Molex converter for fans and plug the pump into that..


----------



## lagittaja

Yeah, I agree on that Neet_za
One time I accidentally enabled the fan control on my cpu fan slot where the pump header is. When I enabled it and the mobo tried to throttle the pump, the pump started making weird noises


----------



## PB4UGO

quick and dirty shot of the res/tubing mod i just completed a couple nights ago...


----------



## LocutusH

Does anyone know, what type of thread is in the radiator?

Its seems to be some imperial (withworth?) bull****, and i cant find longer screws for it here


----------



## lagittaja

Wondering about the same thing.
Went to a local hardware store and they had some of those longer screws.
I found M3 and M4 threaded. M3 was a bit too thin and M4 was too fat..


----------



## jak3z

Screws thread is 6/32. And it's universal. It's the same thread used in the Hard Drivers


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jak3z;14927336*
> Screws thread is 6/32. And it's universal. It's the same thread used in the Hard Drivers


I think that thread is all over the hobby world too, rc cars etc. Havent been active in that for about 2 years so my memory is rusty


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;14918000*
> quick and dirty shot of the res/tubing mod i just completed a couple nights ago...


I normally dont quote the image too but dam thats a nice looking pc!! Gez, did you have to take pretty much every component apart or what? Great another challenge for me to do! haha

Btw where or how did you get that tube? I didnt see that in the small diameter the kuhler uses


----------



## PB4UGO

thanks! i modded as i built it, and yeah, it's tedious work, but i just can't leave things alone haha.

the tube is Tygon 1/4" ID, 3/8" OD with Primochill anti-kink coil. 1/4" ID works perfectly with Kuhler's stock barbs.


----------



## 66racer

thx gonna keep that in mind if I run out of what I have


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *66racer*


I think that thread is all over the hobby world too, rc cars etc. Havent been active in that for about 2 years so my memory is rusty


The question is not IF its available, but WHERE. Since those imperial thread is only used in the USA, and England







(or at least definitely not in the rest of Europe)


----------



## jak3z

That screw is used in Europe aswel. At least in Spain you can find it anywhere

Sent from my HTC Desire


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH;14931677*
> The question is not IF its available, but WHERE. Since those imperial thread is only used in the USA, and England
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (or at least definitely not in the rest of Europe)


Oh assumed you were in the USA







I am not 100% if it is 6-32 but visually sure looks it, but if *jak3z* is right just mail order or search for your local hobby store, I just googled 6-32 screw and several local hobby stores popped up. If you need to order from USA here is a link for 6-32 screw from Grainger

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/search.shtml?searchQuery=6-32+screw&op=search&Ntt=6-32+screw&N=0&sst=subset

EDIT: Actually noticed they are worldwide, here is your rep for hungary, but if you go on the link you can see worldwide at the top
Andy Frazier 1 847 647 3192 [email protected] Hungary


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *66racer*


Oh assumed you were in the USA







I am not 100% if it is 6-32 but visually sure looks it, but if *jak3z* is right just mail order or search for your local hobby store, I just googled 6-32 screw and several local hobby stores popped up. If you need to order from USA here is a link for 6-32 screw from Grainger

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg...N=0&sst=subset

EDIT: Actually noticed they are worldwide, here is your rep for hungary, but if you go on the link you can see worldwide at the top
Andy Frazier 1 847 647 3192 [email protected] Hungary


Nothing here. Only metric screws in the local stores. But i solved it another way, so i may not need any longer screws.
Thanks for the source, anyways!


----------



## 66racer

No problem


----------



## gordonash

Any reason not to hang the 620 radiator plus a gentle typhoon from the blowhole at the top of the case?

If i cant do that i have to use the rear 80mm which would mean using mounting brackets and exhaust air going all over the shop as well as though the 80mm opening lol.

Also any idea where i can get an aluminium 80mm to 120 fan adapter in uk? They are like rocking horse **** and i will need one for the 2nd option.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordonash;14947015*
> Any reason not to hang the 620 radiator plus a gentle typhoon from the blowhole at the top of the case?


IMO, no, no problem at all.
GT bearings doesn't mind if it's vertical position.
And for the rad doesn't matter also, there's no moving parts, its the pump that could mind though->more work for it to do when the rad is higher.
For long term use idk, maybe ask antec?

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gordonash;14947015*
> Any reason not to hang the 620 radiator plus a gentle typhoon from the blowhole at the top of the case?


I think most people dont do it because the ram or the heatsink for the motherboard will hit it and not allow clearance. I know with my last 2 cases, thermaltake v9 and the rosewill blackhawk I didnt have room with my ram and heatsinks. I ended up mounting it outside the case after doing the resivour mod....and later added a second 120mm radiator too


----------



## Chrit

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420;14861263*
> Ok so I slapped a set of Antec 620's on each of my GTX 480's and front mounted each rad to the front fans on my NZXT Tempest EVO. Works like a charm. However idle temps are at 40c but peak temps are 10c off, one is at 58, the other 68. Used AS5 on both.
> 
> Any thoughts why? Retry the the application of AS5?


The GPU's are used differently in SLI. They're both doing different jobs. It's natural for a temperature difference.


----------



## LocutusH

Installed my 620 too.
Push: CM Sickleflow at 1000RPM
Pull: Coolink SWIF2 120 at 1000RPM

CPU temps, stock 2500k
Idle 35°C
Load ~50°C (BFBC2)

If i crank up the fans to 1500rpm, i can get some -5°C more... and still not THAT loud. So all in all, i am happy with it for now


----------



## 66racer

Does any one know of any hacks or mods to the antec software? I really wish we could set the minimum fan speed. I wish it could be more like gpu software where you can change the fans speed a lot more precisly. A min of 800 would be nice and then have their ramp speed control take over from there


----------



## Knives74

Hi, for begin i just want apologize for my english is not my native language









I have some questions about the H2O 620.
Actually i have a hyper 212+ with 2 aerocool sharkfan in push/pull and i want o/c my CPU, but i think the hyper 212+ is a little weak for an o/c

Do you think my temperature will go down compared to my hyper 212 ?
my cpu is at 35~38Â°C in idle and 47~52Â°C in load with an ambiant room at 25Â°C

I have 2 xigmatek mono cool for manage my speed fan, can i adapt that for a push pull on the h2o 620 ?

Once again i apologize for my English i just want improve my english language skills.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Knives74*


Hi, for begin i just want apologize for my english is not my native language









I have some questions about the H2O 620.
Actually i have a hyper 212+ with 2 aerocool sharkfan in push/pull and i want o/c my CPU, but i think the hyper 212+ is a little weak for an o/c

Do you think my temperature will go down compared to my hyper 212 ?
my cpu is at 35~38Â°C in idle and 47~52Â°C in load with an ambiant room at 25Â°C

I have 2 xigmatek mono cool for manage my speed fan, can i adapt that for a push pull on the h2o 620 ?

Once again i apologize for my English i just want improve my english language skills.


Cant say for sure, but my hunch is that its gonna be the same. As for the fans, yes you can install any fans but you will only be able to control one of them, the other one will be controlled by the built-in antec software.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:
Originally Posted by Knives74
Hi, for begin i just want apologize for my english is not my native language

I have some questions about the H2O 620.
Actually i have a hyper 212+ with 2 aerocool sharkfan in push/pull and i want o/c my CPU, but i think the hyper 212+ is a little weak for an o/c

Do you think my temperature will go down compared to my hyper 212 ?
my cpu is at 35~38°C in idle and 47~52°C in load with an ambiant room at 25°C

I have 2 xigmatek mono cool for manage my speed fan, can i adapt that for a push pull on the h2o 620 ?

Once again i apologize for my English i just want improve my english language skills.

Cant say for sure, but my hunch is that its gonna be the same. As for the fans, yes you can install any fans but you will only be able to control one of them, the other one will be controlled by the built-in antec software.

---

The 920 has control software. The 620, which I own (to my knowledge) has not.
I have the pump plugged in to the 3-pin PWR-fan connection on my board (connecting it to a 4-pin PWM would have the same effect, insuring the pump runs at full steam -- or at least above it's 1000ish rpm limit bellow which it starts making chugging noises) and my fan, Gentle Typhoon 1850(AP-15), into a case fan connector. Asus' Fan Xpert software, luckily, bases all fan speeds on the cpu temps, so with some tweaking I found good settings.

I think you are going to see *some* improvement, but don't expect miracles.
For instance: what do you base your load temps on? A gaming session, or stress testing?
I ask because in my setup, with the 620 + AP-15 as exhaust, gaming hasn't been able to push the cpu beyond 45 C, where as Large, in-place FFT's run by Prime95 heated the cpu up to 50 degrees C (I actually had my cpu reach 55 with the 620 once, but that was while also stressing my gpu to the limit)

I don't know how good the Hyper 212+ is, but it's in the same price range as the the Artic Xtreme Freezer rev.2, right? I know, it's bad policy comparing performance based sollely on market price, but I also happen to own a Xtreme Freezer rev.2, so for arguments sake, let's assume performance is about the same to the Hyper 212+.

My system runs at a mild overclock: multiplier at 18, vcore 1.325 V (a slight undervolt), NB-CPU at 2600 MHz and NB voltage raised by 0,2 V.
With the Freezer Xtreme and it's (admittedly:weak) stock fan, that maxes out at 1300 rpm, I got temps of 60 C with Prime95. "Not bad at all,..." I thought. Until I looked at the CoreTemp gadget I have running on my desktop: only two of my four cores were active -- the cpu had throttled down to prevent over-heating, it seems.
Next, I replaced the stock fan with the AP-15, and lo and behold: maxed at 53 C and all four cores active.

So, to recap: the Antec H2O 620 is a great cooler, performs better than budget air-coolers, matches the performance of high-end air coolers.
You can expect a drop in maybe a few degrees C and maybe some more overclock headroom with a 620, but if overclocking headroom is your main goal, why not consider the 920? I've no experience with it's bundled software, but a bigger (thicker) radiator = more cooling surface = most of the times a good thing.

Cheers!

PS - Your english isn't that bad. And it's not like I'm a native speaker either, so I bet my monologue, upon scrutiny, is riddled with mistakes


----------



## Knives74

Thanks for your reply.

For my temps in load is obtained with occt or prime, in game my temps is 44-50°c i think is very nice with a Hyper 212+ (This is a very effective and cheaper air cooling for me)
But the phenom 965 have a maximum operating temperature of 62C degrees and i think with an o/c this temperature is reached (with my air cooling)

I think I will buy the h2o and for the futur i'm trying to buy a real watercooling.

thx for your help


----------



## Raephen

No problem. I too run a Phenom II 965 (C3 stepping), and while with the Freezer extreme I tried out on it, it disabled 2 of 4 cores, the TjMax coretemp reports is way too high I think: 90 C. I've also read the cpu shuts down when reaching 65 C to prevent damage to the chip.

Tell me, do you run your phenom overclocked now? Or have you kept stock values? I know with stock speeds, I can lower VCore to arround 1,20 V, which lowers the heat output very much.

My phenom is a 'temporary' processor until I buy a bulldozer somewhere next year for my am3+ board, so the mild overclock I run on mine is more than enough. My GPU seems to be the bottleneck now (a humble HD5750







).

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knives74;14979015*
> Thanks for your reply.
> 
> For my temps in load is obtained with occt or prime, in game my temps is 44-50°c i think is very nice with a Hyper 212+ (This is a very effective and cheaper air cooling for me)
> But the phenom 965 have a maximum operating temperature of 62C degrees and i think with an o/c this temperature is reached (with my air cooling)
> 
> I think I will buy the h2o and for the futur i'm trying to buy a real watercooling.
> 
> thx for your help


----------



## Knives74

Actually i have kept stock values for a moment, i want try to reach ~4ghz but i have no time with my job for handle that.
i would like to see a benchmark with a bulldozer, I hope that AMD will give us a good processor ^^


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knives74;14979015*
> Thanks for your reply.
> 
> For my temps in load is obtained with occt or prime, in game my temps is 44-50°c i think is very nice with a Hyper 212+ (This is a very effective and cheaper air cooling for me)
> But the phenom 965 have a maximum operating temperature of 62C degrees and i think with an o/c this temperature is reached (with my air cooling)
> 
> I think I will buy the h2o and for the futur i'm trying to buy a real watercooling.
> 
> thx for your help


Worst case if your not happy you can always modify it like many in here have to add a radiator or resivour etc. I have two radiators on my 920. I didnt really need it but my room in the summer can get a little warm until the ac really starts working lol. Im running two 120mm radiators with my 920 plate but my MAX temp (with oc in sig) on prime smallfft after 1hr is 43-45c, 43c if room is at 70-75F (21-23c). I ran prime once while my room was 92F/33c and my max after 1hr was 47c but i never let my room get that hot so it was more like a stress test on my cooling system. gaming on crysis 2 which uses 6 cores after the patches maxes at 32-34c usually. If my room is warm (80F) it can get up to 38c

Raephen,
I may try connecting the fans to the mobo and see the control I get with the asus setup, I really like how I have 3 plugs for the cpu on the CHvF


----------



## Raephen

Raephen,
I may try connecting the fans to the mobo and see the control I get with the asus setup, I really like how I have 3 plugs for the cpu on the CHvF[/QUOTE]

---

Let me know how that works out for ya.
Your board and mine are from the same generation at Asus - yours is 990FX based, right? So unless I'd think you'd have some of the same bundled software (AI Suite II - Fan Xpert is part of that).


----------



## MarKeR

How are these for idle temps









Ignore the core temps as usual!

Very pleased with the H20 620 now!

Got my new Silverstone RV03 case and mounted the rad on the top of the case using the original case fan! Now I have mounted the original Antec fan as a push and my temps dropped loads









Also that is with my 2 180mm intake fans as half speed


----------



## boinkboink

g'day!

i just pulled the trigger on my 920 order and am filled w/ anticipation.

i'm wondering if there is a link to where i might get the USB API for the 920? i'd like to scribble out tcl bindings for my slackware box where this hummer will live?

tia and, circulate?


----------



## 66racer

What fans do you guys recommend? Thinking about upgrading the noise of the 920 fans are starting to annoy me lol


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *66racer*


What fans do you guys recommend? Thinking about upgrading the noise of the 920 fans are starting to annoy me lol


Gentle Typhoons..
I have 2x 1850rpm on my 620

Sent from my HTC Desire running InsertCoin


----------



## 66racer

Think I saw those recommended before too. How are they at noise compared to the high pitch squeal of the antec ones. Im pushing my oc farther and now they are running at higher speeds so its time to replace lol


----------



## Raephen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer;15013048*
> Think I saw those recommended before too. How are they at noise compared to the high pitch squeal of the antec ones. Im pushing my oc farther and now they are running at higher speeds so its time to replace lol


Gentle Typhoon 1850 (AP-15).
The single one on my 620 does wonders with a low humm / sound signature / whatever you want to call it,
At higher rpms the humm becomes (naturally) more pronounced but still one of the best fans I know of. Compared to, say, 1300 rpm Scyhte slip stream it's a hell off a difference. The slip stream is inaudible up to 900ish rpm, very noticeable up to 1000, and after that: hurricane mode. The AP-15 does the same job at 1000->1200 rpm at a whisper, especially in comparison to the 620's stock or the 1300rpm slip stream.

Oddly enough, my AP-15, in the 1300 range it has the same increase in it's humm as with high rpm, to fall back to the silent humm from in the 1400 - >16-/1700ish range.
I might get a shroud for my one fan and see if it helps.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen;15016792*
> Gentle Typhoon 1850 (AP-15).
> The single one on my 620 does wonders with a low humm / sound signature / whatever you want to call it,
> At higher rpms the humm becomes (naturally) more pronounced but still one of the best fans I know of. Compared to, say, 1300 rpm Scyhte slip stream it's a hell off a difference. The slip stream is inaudible up to 900ish rpm, very noticeable up to 1000, and after that: hurricane mode. The AP-15 does the same job at 1000->1200 rpm at a whisper, especially in comparison to the 620's stock or the 1300rpm slip stream.
> 
> Oddly enough, my AP-15, in the 1300 range it has the same increase in it's humm as with high rpm, to fall back to the silent humm from in the 1400 - >16-/1700ish range.
> I might get a shroud for my one fan and see if it helps.


I totally agree.

Sent from my HTC Desire running InsertCoin


----------



## 66racer

thanks guys


----------



## unlockingsky

i just got a antec 920 and have no idea how to adjust the fan speeds. i tried clicking all over the software and seems like i can't adjust the speed. can anyone tell me how to do it?


----------



## TechSoldier

If I remember correctly, you can't just adjust the fan speed. I believe you have to create a custom profile and adjust the temp for fan ramp up, after that the fans run automatically based on your temps. You should have three presets, one for silent, extreme and custom. Just use the custom profile to make your changes.


----------



## unlockingsky

Quote:



Originally Posted by *TechSoldier*


If I remember correctly, you can't just adjust the fan speed. I believe you have to create a custom profile and adjust the temp for fan ramp up, after that the fans run automatically based on your temps. You should have three presets, one for silent, extreme and custom. Just use the custom profile to make your changes.


that kinda suck... i wish i done more research or antec comes out with a new software that allows fan speed to be adjust... seems like a "all or nothing" situation.


----------



## kody7839

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unlockingsky;15025917*
> that kinda suck... i wish i done more research or antec comes out with a new software that allows fan speed to be adjust... seems like a "all or nothing" situation.


The software is quite nice actually, it's definitely not "all or nothing".

When you select the "Custom" profile it varies the fan speed based on the water temps. You are able to pick when you want the fans to begin ramping up and when you'd like them to running at 100%. This is nice because it allows you to make changes bases on ambient temps and other factors.


----------



## cohibaman

I have an Antec Kuhler 920 I was wondering if any of you have trouble with the temp. icon in the system tray disappearing after a while, or if you open and then close an application. I did contact Antec support and and they sent me the updated?? ChillControl software v1.2., however it still is doing the same as mentioned as previous. Any info would be appreciated if you know if there is any other temperature software that would be good for monitoring that would always be displaying in the system tray. Sorry if this has been discussed before.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cohibaman*


I have an Antec Kuhler 920 I was wondering if any of you have trouble with the temp. icon in the system tray disappearing after a while, or if you open and then close an application. I did contact Antec support and and they sent me the updated?? ChillControl software v1.2., however it still is doing the same as mentioned as previous. Any info would be appreciated if you know if there is any other temperature software that would be good for monitoring that would always be displaying in the system tray. Sorry if this has been discussed before.


Couldnt this be a windows issue? I dont have that issue after I click on the temp icon when its already in the system tray and drag it next to the icon I want it, whether its clock or network icon etc. Also make sure you select start with windows and start minimized in the settings.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *unlockingsky*


that kinda suck... i wish i done more research or antec comes out with a new software that allows fan speed to be adjust... seems like a "all or nothing" situation.


Personally I wish the software had more control; like a specific minimum fan speed to be exact but If you make your own custom profile you can dial it in nicely, sometimes you have to raise or lower full speed or start ramp speed since they work off eachother. Mine is set as ramp:28c full speed: 36

Im thinking about just connecting the fans to the motherboard though and using either the asus built in tool or something like speedfan. If connected to the motherboard there are a few software solutions, I just have to find the one I like most.


----------



## 66racer

Any other notible fans I can use? Searching newegg and they dont have the typhoon, I wanted to will call it tomorrow possibly


----------



## vortech

Quote:



Originally Posted by *66racer*


Any other notible fans I can use? Searching newegg and they dont have the typhoon, I wanted to will call it tomorrow possibly


I got these off Newegg because they were quiet, PWM, and pretty good on specs.









http://www.overclock.net/14151516-post514.html


----------



## Drake.L

Hey guys, I just got my 620 and installed it and currently running prime95. I'm not sure how temps are supposed to be like but im currently getting 41C. I'm asking if this is a good temperature or not because when I was installing it, i didn't really click the pump in with the ring that well, so I was moving the pump around on the cpu a bit.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *66racer*


Any other notible fans I can use? Searching newegg and they dont have the typhoon, I wanted to will call it tomorrow possibly


I am using a Sickleflow to push (because of green leds), and a SWIF2 to pull.
Both run at 1000RPM, idle 32Â°C, load 45Â°C (not burn, i dont play with benchmarks). Stock 2500k.
But they are silent up to 1400 RPM too.
Going to OC it to 4.2 or 4.6 this weekend..


----------



## yeahi

hey guys i just wanna ask about the Antec Kühler H2O coolers it is true that water coolers like those lose cooling performance by time i wanna buy a Antec Kühler H2O 620 but i am confused and sorry for my bad english i hope you can help me here


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *yeahi;15036412*
> hey guys i just wanna ask about the Antec Kühler H2O coolers it is true that water coolers like those lose cooling performance by time i wanna buy a Antec Kühler H2O 620 but i am confused and sorry for my bad english i hope you can help me here


Why would it loose it?


----------



## Drake.L

Here's my 620 installed. Definitely liking the low profile look. Push/Pull set up with 110CFM Scythe Slipstreams, I don't know if they're good or not for P/P but they sure as hell move a lot of air. Load temps are at 45C. Ambients are rougly around 23C-25C.


----------



## yeahi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH;15038318*
> Why would it loose it?


the water get's old ?


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yeahi*


the water get's old ?


Then what, it tastes bad?








They give 3 years of warranty... i would not except anyhting in this time frame.


----------



## Raephen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Drake.L*


Here's my 620 installed. Definitely liking the low profile look. Push/Pull set up with 110CFM Scythe Slipstreams, I don't know if they're good or not for P/P but they sure as hell move a lot of air. Load temps are at 45C. Ambients are rougly around 23C-25C.


Those are very good load temps... To be expected with a 620 and a good fan.
My temps with my Ph.II 965 C3 are very similar, though I use a single Gentle Typhoon (AP-15).
How do you run your Phenom? I've got a mild overclock, slight undervolt and 2600MHz cpu-NB link with a slight overvolt on that line.

Cheers!


----------



## pezcore

Yay another club I can join. I've got a 620 on my 2500k chip. Idles around 40*C, which I am happy with. I'm just using one fan (pull) on the radiator.

I've been meaning to take pics of my setup so when I do I'll add one here


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen;15051990*
> Those are very good load temps... To be expected with a 620 and a good fan.
> My temps with my Ph.II 965 C3 are very similar, though I use a single Gentle Typhoon (AP-15).
> How do you run your Phenom? I've got a mild overclock, slight undervolt and 2600MHz cpu-NB link with a slight overvolt on that line.
> 
> Cheers!


Currently only doing stock clocks as I don't see the need into overclocking. I can run all the games I play on max everything. Including BC2


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pezcore;15052120*
> Yay another club I can join. I've got a 620 on my 2500k chip. Idles around 40*C, which I am happy with. I'm just using one fan (pull) on the radiator.
> 
> I've been meaning to take pics of my setup so when I do I'll add one here


that's a fairly high idle temp imo. not sure where you live and how cool your room is though.

also, why only one fan pulling? for a single fan setup, i would push.


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15056657*
> that's a fairly high idle temp imo. not sure where you live and how cool your room is though.
> 
> also, why only one fan pulling? for a single fan setup, i would push.


I agree - mine idles at 28-33c depending on the ambient temp. Still, it's the load temp that really matters!

Pezcore - When you run Prime95 blend, what's your peak temp?


----------



## pezcore

I'll run it and let you know. I've only tried intel burn test, 5 runs, and it got to mid 60's.

I have it setup as a pull fan because that's how I could mount it to my case with the included screws (fan to case, radiator to fan)

I have been thinking of adding a second fan and getting some more long screws though.

*edit - ok I let it run 5 of the blend tests (stopped it when all 4 cores started #6. It took 4 minutes, no errors/warnings) just to see, and here are my max temps

Core0 - 58
Core1 - 60
Core2 - 67
Core3 - 66

Cores 2 and 3 have always been higher than 0 and 1, but I swear I've tightened the thing down properly and evenly. I don't want to crack the little plastic risers. Any ideas? And how do the temps look?

I'm not sure what the temp is here in the room, but my gtx570 is sitting at 39-40*C right now


----------



## Smo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pezcore;15057876*
> I'll run it and let you know. I've only tried intel burn test, 5 runs, and it got to mid 60's.
> 
> I have it setup as a pull fan because that's how I could mount it to my case with the included screws (fan to case, radiator to fan)
> 
> I have been thinking of adding a second fan and getting some more long screws though.
> 
> *edit - ok I let it run 5 of the blend tests (stopped it when all 4 cores started #6. It took 4 minutes, no errors/warnings) just to see, and here are my max temps
> 
> Core0 - 58
> Core1 - 60
> Core2 - 67
> Core3 - 66
> 
> Cores 2 and 3 have always been higher than 0 and 1, but I swear I've tightened the thing down properly and evenly. I don't want to crack the little plastic risers. Any ideas? And how do the temps look?
> 
> I'm not sure what the temp is here in the room, but my gtx570 is sitting at 39-40*C right now


Your temps are absolutely fine dude (although fairly high if you're not overclocked) - nothing to worry about at all, if you are. It must be a relatively high ambient, but your cooling is doing a spot on job.


----------



## Tonza

I just ordered H20 620 , there was nice special offer (44 euros) got also 2x 1850 rpm Gentle´s. My Silver Arrow is blocking top pci-e 1x slot so i cant use my soundcard, so i decided to get antec one. I was wondering, has anyone tested silver arrow vs H20 620? Also another question, tubes up or down? Which is the best way to install, seems that there mixed opinions from this.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pezcore;15057876*
> I'll run it and let you know. I've only tried intel burn test, 5 runs, and it got to mid 60's.
> 
> I have it setup as a pull fan because that's how I could mount it to my case with the included screws (fan to case, radiator to fan)
> 
> I have been thinking of adding a second fan and getting some more long screws though.
> 
> *edit - ok I let it run 5 of the blend tests (stopped it when all 4 cores started #6. It took 4 minutes, no errors/warnings) just to see, and here are my max temps
> 
> Core0 - 58
> Core1 - 60
> Core2 - 67
> Core3 - 66
> 
> Cores 2 and 3 have always been higher than 0 and 1, but I swear I've tightened the thing down properly and evenly. I don't want to crack the little plastic risers. Any ideas? And how do the temps look?
> 
> I'm not sure what the temp is here in the room, but my gtx570 is sitting at 39-40*C right now


Dude, you're temps are TOTALLY fine!
When you are doing IntelBurnTest/Linx or P95, if your temperatures are 90*C then it is okay. In normal use, you will NEVER reach the kind of load IBT/Linx/P95 puts your processor through.
And the core temp difference, remember those pictures about what the Sandy Bridge die looks like ?
Here you go, this should answer it.








But your temps does look a bit funny, since I always have core#1 and core#2 the higher than core#0 and core#3
But it is okay, it doesn't hurt your chip.


----------



## Knives74

I have receive my H2o 620, and for me is a very effective cooling but, now my GPU and HDD is hot to compare with my hyper 212+


(after 1 hours of bad company 2) with room temperature ~25C

Before my H2o idle/load
CPU : 35 / 53
Core : 32 / 51
GPU : 34 / 70
HDD : 27 / 31 
Motherboard : 30 / 42

For me is a good deal


----------



## lagittaja

That is not too hot for hdd!








You only should start to worry when they reach 50*C or go above 50*C.
afaik, 30-45*C for hdd is the Goldilocks zone









E: Btw, how is your antec kuhler/fans set up in your Kandalf?
As I look Thermaltake info page about Kandalf, there are many fan slots.
You have your Antec in REAR as a intake or exhaust?
If you have it as intake, I would recommend setting it as exhaust instead.
That is by looking at your case normal air flow.








Normal flow would be front intake, rear/top exhaust.
If you have your Antec as a intake, then the hot air from the antec will be sucked UP to your rear/top exhaust fan where your hdd's are.
That is not optimal imho.


----------



## rushthezeppelin

Here's my 620 with x2 CM Excalibur fans.










Those fans are running 2150-2200rpm for the push fan and 2050-2100 for the pull fan. Talk about some major airflow and I even tapped the shroud holes on the pull fan to improve the pull static pressure on it (def made a dif in rpms and a bit of a dif in temps).


----------



## Knives74

I have try 2 different airflow, the first :


with this airflow, my cpu reach 51C (load) 35C(idle) but my GPU/HDD has a lower temp

the second (i use that actually): 


with that my CPU reach 45-46C(load) 27C~30c(idle) but my GPU/HDD has a higher temp ^^

I think i'm gonna try a third airflow like that :


----------



## jezzer

Have the 920 running for a week now, was kinda sceptic on the sound production of the fans but the software is keeping them very quiet icw low temps so im glad i did not skip this set after seeing some videos on youtube.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rushthezeppelin;15063790*
> Here's my 620 with x2 CM Excalibur fans.
> 
> pic
> 
> Those fans are running 2150-2200rpm for the push fan and 2050-2100 for the pull fan. Talk about some major airflow and I even tapped the shroud holes on the pull fan to improve the pull static pressure on it (def made a dif in rpms and a bit of a dif in temps).


That has to be loud like hell


----------



## Vowels

Does anyone what sort of difference in temps there would be between push-pull AP-15s on a 620 compared to a single AP-15? The 620 has a thin rad so I know it wouldn't benefit as much as a 920 would in push-pull.


----------



## 66racer

Thanks for the fan suggestions again guys, still havent ordered yet though, moving this weekend so been to busy to play with the setup.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *yeahi*


hey guys i just wanna ask about the Antec KÃ¼hler H2O coolers it is true that water coolers like those lose cooling performance by time i wanna buy a Antec KÃ¼hler H2O 620 but i am confused and sorry for my bad english i hope you can help me here


I dont see why it could either. I took mine apart to make some modifications and its literally water with some additives. Plus you can always modify it if you like later to add a resivour and other radiators later if you like.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *nekon*


I got these off Newegg because they were quiet, PWM, and pretty good on specs.









http://www.overclock.net/14151516-post514.html


nekon did you gut a spare fan to use as a shroud? I was sure its been done many many times but you read my mind lol, I moved the radiator outside of the case to have more room for this, there is so much waisted space that could get more airflow if the fans were farther from the radiator but still sealed.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vowels*


Does anyone what sort of difference in temps there would be between push-pull AP-15s on a 620 compared to a single AP-15? The 620 has a thin rad so I know it wouldn't benefit as much as a 920 would in push-pull.


Even though the rad on the 620 is thin, it still adds quite much of resistance to the airflow.
If I set my fans to full speed, my push fan will run ~1800rpm and the pull fan runs only ~1700rpm. If I stop the push fan with my finger, the pull fan speed drops to ~1650rpm.
And yeah there's a difference temp wise. Haven't tested how much it exactly is because of my laziness..


----------



## Raephen

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Vowels*


Does anyone what sort of difference in temps there would be between push-pull AP-15s on a 620 compared to a single AP-15? The 620 has a thin rad so I know it wouldn't benefit as much as a 920 would in push-pull.


Two AP-15's push/pull? No, I don't have experience with that.
Two Slip Stream PWM 1300rpm, I did try. And already with those it made next to no difference in temps if I used push/pull or a single push set-up.
Hence I decided to go with the more quiet and more powerful AP-15.
I agree with your conclusion about the thin rad and the benefits an extra fan would provide, although maybe adding a shroud to either side would 'center' the air better and give the +/- inch thick rad more time with the passing air.
I'd love to try a shroud, but regretably I can't find screws long enough to attach the 2,5cm fan + 2cm shroud to the radiator. The longest 6-32 screws I could find online were either 4 or 4,5 cm, and that's 1 or 0,5 cm too short








Or would standard M3 or M4 screws work too? I'm sure I could find some long enough.
Cheers!


----------



## fishhawk

Just fyi-i get all screws i need from hardware stores-i just buy stainless steel screws and never have a prob finding ones to fit or length, besides if you need to trim one abit-a good set of linesman pliers work great every time. Also i use the scythe slip steam 88cfm or 110 cfm fans on my 620 and a push pull give me about 4-5c better temps over 1 fan, plus in my case mounting it in the top of the case gave me another 1-2c better temps over mounting it in the rear. My fans are also on controlers so i deside how loud they are.


----------



## Tonza

Got mine now, using 1850 Rpm gentle push, and 1150rpm gentle as pull. Temps are very nice, on par with Silver Arrow (idle temps are lower with this







). Now i can put my soundcard to top slot aswell.


----------



## Andrei

Link to photo
Just got my 620 and mounted with push-pull system...now it's time to play







:happysmil:happysmil oh and can somebody direct me to a guide or something... i want to overclock my 920 to 3 - 3.2 Ghz ( without playing with voltages)


----------



## TechSoldier

You should be able to go into the bios and change the multiplier to get 3.2. Just remember though, as you continue to overclock you'll need to adjust voltages accordingly. Sometimes in small increments you won't have to worry about this so you might be ok without having to worry about increasing the voltage.

Example: I'm running 4.8 at 1.4v

Also, be sure to stay under 75C CPU load temp. You can test this by downloading Prime95 and watching your temps using realtemp, HWmonitor, ELeet, etc.


----------



## Knives74

My final setup, with my h2o 620 now it's time to o/c










For my next computer, i will try a full watercooling.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Knives74;15103789*
> My final setup, with my h2o 620 now it's time to o/c
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For my next computer, i will try a full watercooling.


that build look like the depths of hell!! (in a good way)....









now for contrast to Knives' red hot build, here's my updated 620. The water is brighter orange in reality, but my camera makes it look like root beer :-|

Sig Rig


----------



## Drake.L

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO;15107921*
> that build look like the depths of hell!! (in a good way)....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now for contrast to Knives' red hot build, here's my updated 620. The water is brighter orange in reality, but my camera makes it look like root beer :-|
> 
> Sig Rig


Damn that looks awesome, how long did it take you to paint it all white?


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Drake.L;15109344*
> Damn that looks awesome, how long did it take you to paint it all white?


thanks!
hours and hours and more hours...next time, i'm just sending it out to get painted haha

and like an idiot, instead of just getting white acrylic, i was impatient and i got clear...sanded/painted the underside.


----------



## Knives74

Awesome ! ^^


----------



## dakeeper99

I just bought a 620 for my rig (specs and pic coming later).
And i want to use 2 other fans within it.

Can i use 2 of these fans: Aerocool Evil Black 12cm Fan LED ?

And how do i connect them? (perhaps using a Y-Cable the to the pump power cable?


----------



## fishhawk

I would not run 2 fans off the fan connector it is made only for one fan, other wise use any fans you want, but the stock fan is better than most you can buy to replace it, it has very nice cfm,s and realy good static pressure. I have my fans on a controller or just hook them up on mobo header or straight to power supply. It realy depends if you want to controll them or not.
Nice fans, but the static pressure is farley low on them-the air flow is the same as the stock fan, but stock fan has 3.94 pressure.


----------



## dakeeper99

Hmm. 
well...the stock fan might be ok, but i think LED fans look much better









I have a Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z Mainboard.
It hast 2 CPU Fan connectors. CPU-FAN and CPU-OPT.
Perhaps i can use 1 Fan to the Powercord with the pump, and the other fan to CPU-OPT connector?


----------



## fishhawk

Yup that will work, and yes they are gd looking fans and should do some great cooling, wasnt telling you not to use them, only giveing info is all.


----------



## fishhawk

when hooked up-the speed you see from your cpu fan header pins are the speed of the pump by the way.


----------



## dakeeper99

Quote:



but stock fan has 3.94 pressure.


can you explain this?
My english isn`t perfect....i`m german.

So the LED fans got too low pressure?

Or.. 3.94 iss the pressure of ONE stock fan.
But i will use TWO of the LED Fans....hmmm.....my brain is eating me


----------



## fishhawk

no prob-higher static pressure is always better when combined with good cfms when useing rads for cooling. static pressure is the force of the air. And depending on how much you intend to over clock your system if any will be a big factor. But if you have those fans you should be just fine.

And my typo by the way-stock fan has 3.394 static pressure not 3.94 sorry.

If you want try the stock fan as pushing air against the rad and one of thoses other fans pulling air-they are the same cfm. And than try both the fans you bought and see wich you like better and wich set up cools better.


----------



## dakeeper99

Okay.

Yesterday i installed the 620 an rann some itel burn tests.
With [email protected] Temperature comes stable at around 75C.

The Setup iss push pull with the two LED Fans.The Fans are running @1400rpm then (full speed).

I think this iss ok, ain`t it?

I will try to setup some Fancontrol now... the fans are @fullspeed all the time and this isn`t necessary. Fanmate seems to be no choice....i think i nee d to do some bios settings.

Here some pictures of my new Gaming rig.Okay...i need to do something with the cables...

Specs:
Intel i7 [email protected], Asus Maximus IV Gene-Z, 16GB Ripjaws DDR3, Zotac Nvidia 470GTX AMP!, 2xSeagate 750GB Raid0, 1x2TB WD HDD SATA600, 1x OCZ Agility 3 128GB SSD, Samsung BD-Rom, Aerocool XPredator Case, NZXT 200mm Casefan, Antec H2o 620 Colling unit installed Push Pull with 2 Aerocool LED Fans










I like it


----------



## TechSoldier

As long as you stay below 75C you are ok. Just remember though, when you get in that temp range and above, your processor performance will start to slow down. I'd recommend using 3DMark11 to help you find the sweet spot.


----------



## lagittaja

Naaaah, the temps can go higher than that..
When running the IBT with AVX, the max temp you should have is 90*C
But in NORMAL USE, you'll never reach those temperatures so having 90*C under IBT is perfectly fine..


----------



## TechSoldier

Sure the temps can go higher but you'll see hardly any performance gain if any. Using the same setup I've done tons of benchmarks and can say with certainty that there's hardly any benefit going over 75. Just start overclocking the gpu if you need a little more performance.


----------



## reaver83

@Knives74
Wow, good to see I am in a Forum with someone with a Similar motherboard. So, you got the Antec Kuhler? Hows it working for you? My 1090T seems to like my 920 alot better than the **** loud Stock cooler. Temps are down 15C on Full load.

Now I have a question. My Exhaust fan is basically sitting partially on top of my radiator, and every now and then I get minor clicking noises out of the fans that came with the Kuhler. I'm thinking that its causeing turbulance in the fans. Should I remove said Exhaust fan? I hate to cause it adds light to the case and extracts a HUGE amount of hot air out of the system.


----------



## RaYYaN

Hey guys, great thread good so see lots of happy users.

Over the summer I won a Kuhler H20 620. Can't wait to use it, just got to save up enough money for the rest of the parts.









At least I have a solid source of info for when I build my rig (if I ever collect enough funds














)


----------



## thatrodbloke

How is Antec's warranty on the Kühler H20 620 compared to Corsair's H60?

I've read wonderful things about Corsair's where they would replace people's
parts due to a leak from one of their Hydro systems. Though, I haven't heard
much of Antec's.

I'm currently deciding to buy one or the other, but Corsair's warranty looks like
the winner here.


----------



## Knives74

@Reaver83



Front of my case :


For me this h2o is very effective, now i have a low temp.

if my fan is too close of my radiator my fan (aerocool sharkfan) "push" is very very very loud like boat engine

have you trying to use a rheobus for your exhaust fan ?
I have buy 2 mono cool by xigmatek, for manage my fan this product is very cheap







.


----------



## TechSoldier

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thatrodbloke;15151963*
> How is Antec's warranty on the Kühler H20 620 compared to Corsair's H60?
> 
> I've read wonderful things about Corsair's where they would replace people's
> parts due to a leak from one of their Hydro systems. Though, I haven't heard
> much of Antec's.
> 
> I'm currently deciding to buy one or the other, but Corsair's warranty looks like
> the winner here.


If I'm not mistaking I believe Antec provides the same warranty. The reason I decide on the 920 was the Chillcontrol software. I liked the idea of being able to adjust the fan speeds without opening the case.


----------



## ls1200

Is it normal to have a 10oC difference between liquid temp. and CPU temp. at full load?


----------



## mooh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ls1200;15170849*
> Is it normal to have a 10oC difference between liquid temp. and CPU temp. at full load?


With my system under full load, My cores will come up to 68-70c max, the water is held by the fans at around 40c..
Also the radiator sits above 2 gtx570's kicking out 70c each, So my cooling prolly has to work a little harder than most.


----------



## ls1200

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mooh;15171364*
> With my system under full load, My cores will come up to 68-70c max, the water is held by the fans at around 40c..
> Also the radiator sits above 2 gtx570's kicking out 70c each, So my cooling prolly has to work a little harder than most.


Will the difference be reduced by a better thermal compound?


----------



## mooh

I didnt know what to expect as to the temps as there where no reviews when I brought it, I reseated the waterblock 4 times to see if I could get an improvement, Im now using Arctic silver 5. I have no issues with those temps, 70 is quite exceptable for an I5 and at that temperature the fans on the rad are only spinning at 40% so its fairly quiet..
I could drop the temps a LOAD more by using the extreme profile and running the fans at 100% but I like my ears....

Playing the BF3 Beta on max settings my cpu is 62c and I cant hear the cpu fan over the vid cards, oh this is with a 23c ish ambient temp


----------



## reaver83

@Knives74
Sorry I haven't posted back yet, for some reason this website isn't sending me emails when someone replies. Anyway, this is my current setup, was a Budget build so I'm using Stock fans from the case in the Window, and a Evercool aluminum Fan with blue LED's as the Exhaust. It may be a loud fan, but OMG the air it moves. Heres a pick of it open.








I wonder would it be a good idea to move the high CFM fan to push or possibly pull air on the radiator? Also, I'm thinking about making a partition panel to cut air hot air from the PSU off from the top of the Computer, and was gonna mount a fan to push air to the top into it. 
Thoughts, oppinions, suggestions from others are highly welcome.

*Also, please be gentle about the wiring and especially the LED I rigged for more light. It's a temp fix til I can afford better lighting.


----------



## gordonash

[Rear 8cm Exhaust Hole][Aluminium 8cm/12cm Fan Adapter][620 Radiator][Gentle Typhoon]

Or

[Rear 8cm Exhaust Hole][Aluminium 8cm/12cm Fan Adapter][Gentle Typhoon][620 Radiator]

I think the top setup is better as the radiator has metal to metal contact with a huge chunk or aluminium and the pc case which will aid cooling?

I know i have a bottle neck but im giving it a go anyway to see the results.

Thanks for your thoughts.


----------



## AppaTheBison

Hey guys, having trouble installing this. I posted the following over on my motherboard club, but I realized this is the better place to ask. Any advice besides refund?

Hey guys, I have this motherboard, Gene Z. I'm trying to install the Antec 620 Cooler backplate onto the back of the motherboard. The instructions don't show how to install the backplate for 1155. Also, no matter how I align the Intel Backplate, the holes do not line up with holes on the motherboard. At best, I can get 3 of the holes to match up. Also, to the left of the back of motherboard, there is a little raised square thats raising my backplate off too high away from the motherboard, so it does not sit flush.

Since I noticed there are people in this thread which have this cooler and this MB, I'm wondering how you guys got the backplate on?

EDIT: I just saw a bunch of reviews on Newegg which says this cooler doesn't fit into socket 1155 without modding/trimming. Misleading product since it states clearly it works with 1155. Guess its refund time


----------



## Vowels

It should fit on 1155 just fine. 1155 is physically the same as 1156 with respect to heatsink mounting holes and I'm pretty sure Kuhler H2O units are working fine on 1156.


----------



## Drake.L

The 620 fits perfectly fine on 1155. I'm using it right now. Just use the 1156 holes and it'll line up perfectly..


----------



## reaver83

if it was anything like the installation on my AM3, the holes weren't a exact fit, but close enough to get 3 lined up, and when you screw in 3 screws and get them lined up, the 4th will line up perfect. My only regret is when i put the double-sided foam on, I accidently touched it to the motherboard out of alignment, and had to force it around to fit.


----------



## motokorth

New to the forums but lurking for a while using it to do research. I have the 920 and just replaced the stock loud fans with the GT1850.

At first I was not impressed as the temps went up to 69 deg during prime95 only after a few min, so being the lazy sob I am i started to swap the fans back with the system still running but P95 off. I heard some gurgling/air? in the rad so i gave it a good shake and put the GT1850 back on and everything is back to normal.

So far the temps with the GT 1850 are just about the same as the stock fans at full blast but much more quite. I am giving the GT1850 a big thumbs up.


----------



## cohibaman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *motokorth;15217451*
> New to the forums but lurking for a while using it to do research. I have the 920 and just replaced the stock loud fans with the GT1850.
> 
> At first I was not impressed as the temps went up to 69 deg during prime95 only after a few min, so being the lazy sob I am i started to swap the fans back with the system still running but P95 off. I heard some gurgling/air? in the rad so i gave it a good shake and put the GT1850 back on and everything is back to normal.
> 
> So far the temps with the GT 1850 are just about the same as the stock fans at full blast but much more quite. I am giving the GT1850 a big thumbs up.


How do you have the GT 1850's hooked up, to the mother board or to a fan controller, and are you using the chill control software?


----------



## reaver83

I have a question. Has anyone that kept the stock fans on the 920 noticed that after 2K on the fans it actually cools worse than at 1.5K? When my fans hit 2k, the liquid temps start climbing, not falling. That isn't even under load. This worries me cause what will it do under load? If this is the case, then I'm swapping the pull fan out with my aluminum fan. It seems to move WAY more air than the fans that came with it.

Also, will connecting a non PWM 3-pin fan effect this in any way? The aluminum fan I thought about using is only 3-pin. I can connect the fans on the Radiator elsewhere on my Motherboard, since all but one of the fan headers is a 4-pin PWM header.


----------



## motokorth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cohibaman;15217842*
> How do you have the GT 1850's hooked up, to the mother board or to a fan controller, and are you using the chill control software?


I just used the built in controller because I was lazy to run 2 more wires to my fan controller. I just use the chill control to watch temps but that is about it, the fans are running full speed and I don't mind it at all.


----------



## TechSoldier

Yeah, the AP-15s will only run at full speed when connected to the leads coming from the pump since the AP-15s are not 4 wire PWM fans.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TechSoldier;15224263*
> Yeah, the AP-15s will only run at full speed when connected to the leads coming from the pump since the AP-15s are not 4 wire PWM fans.


yeah, not gonna happen then. The fan I got is extremely loud at medium speeds. Thanks for the advice. Sux, I'm once again out of funding, and need at least 1 high CFM, low noise 4-pin PWM fan.


----------



## TechSoldier

If you are concerned about noise, the AP-15s even at full speed are whisper quite


----------



## reaver83

not so much worried about noise as much as cooling. Currently I have downed my computer down to stock settings, (for the components because the motherboard does not auto-clock things right) and I'm seeing temps go from 30C-40C on my cores, upwards of 50C in my pump. Granted those are decent temps, but what I don't like to see is my fans max out their usefulness at 2K RPMs, and it try to run even higher RPMs and do absolutely nothing but make noise. I was actually thinking about taking the pull fan loose and use just the push fan, see if maybe having both fans was causing resistance of air after certain RPM's.


----------



## adi518

Hi,

I have a few unexplained things to get right since there isn't enough knowledge base on these products nor did the FAQ on Asetek's webpage help much. Hopefully, some more experienced users with this unit can help!







I'm using i5 2500K @ stock w/ Gigabyte Z68X-UD3H Motherboard.

I got the Kuhler 620 as I mentioned and I'm pleased with it, all besides the fan included. Checking in the BIOS & Speedfan it reports to run @ 1400rpm. I actually never seen it above that (seen more people reporting this), not even when I ran Prime 95 (i5 2500K @ stock). Due to the noise this fan makes at idle (1400 rpm) I decided to try another fan. I used a Fractal Design fan that came with my case. The spec on the Fractal fan says it runs @ 1000pm +-10%. Not sure what that means exactly but I connected it and then checked the fan speed in both the BIOS/Speedfan and it says the same "1400 rpm". In reality tho, the fan moves a lot SLOWER, no way it's 1400 rpm, so I don't understand how it still reports 1400 rpm.









There's also another issue. With the stock fan installed I checked my cpu temp with RealTemp and it was around 36-40c but when I checked the bios it reported around ~30c. Where did the difference come from? I've seen people reporting 30c with RealTemp so why does it show me 40c? Worst part is I don't even know which one reports the "real" temp. Funny part is, I get the same idle temp using the Fractal Design fan which pushes a lot less air than the Antec fan. Very odd.









I couldn't find proper answers on google so I really hope you guys can finally help me figure out these uncertainties.

Thanks...


----------



## PB4UGO

the 1400 RPM you're seeing is the pump speed, not the fan speed. 1400 RPM is normal for the pump. plug your fan directly into a motherboard header, then you'll get your fan speed reading.

BIOS temps will usually report higher. Temps will likely go down after you're all booted up into your OS. Just the way it works.


----------



## PB4UGO

BTW, welcome to OCN!


----------



## adi518

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*


the 1400 RPM you're seeing is the pump speed, not the fan speed. 1400 RPM is normal for the pump. plug your fan directly into a motherboard header, then you'll get your fan speed reading.

BIOS temps will usually report higher. Temps will likely go down after you're all booted up into your OS. Just the way it works.


You mean RealTemp usually reports higher?







It's the bios that shows more sensible temps...I mean everyone here reports around 30c so that's what I should get right?

The temps I gave were taken after the system was up for quite some time.

Thanks for the welcome, looks like a very active forum in here.


----------



## adi518

I also noticed another weird thing but that's more related to my motherboard.

The spec on the fractal fan is 1000rpm -/+ 10%. That means 1100rpm @ max speed and 900 rpm at the min?

Gotta get this one straight, otherwise I'll go nuts. :\\

Bad thing about this mb I have is that it doesn't seem to control either of the fans besides the CPU one which is controlled by the pump anyway. But it's still weird lolz... I added another fractal design fan as a push fan and connected it to the "system 1" fan header. In the bios it reports RPM around 1300-1400rpm, w**? Doesn't make sense, the fan isn't spec'ed at 1000rpm?

Arghhhhh

Learning curve take a long time for these things :\\


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adi518*


You mean RealTemp usually reports higher?







It's the bios that shows more sensible temps...I mean everyone here reports around 30c so that's what I should get right?

The temps I gave were taken after the system was up for quite some time.

Thanks for the welcome, looks like a very active forum in here.


in my case, and in the case of _many_ other users, the complaint is usually that the BIOS temps are higher, but that's not of importance, because you should (for the most part) ignore your BIOS temp, unless you're getting horrific readings. RealTemp is a good little program, and should give you a pretty accurate reading. If you're not happy with your temps once you're all booted up, think about your case airflow, or getting higher CFM fans for your radiator, or reseating your cooler with better thermal paste...those are some options.


----------



## adi518

The case has pretty good setup for cooling and temps were exactly like that in my old case which had worse fans setup.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adi518*


I also noticed another weird thing but that's more related to my motherboard.

The spec on the fractal fan is 1000rpm -/+ 10%. That means 1100rpm @ max speed and 900 rpm at the min?

Gotta get this one straight, otherwise I'll go nuts. :\\

Bad thing about this mb I have is that it doesn't seem to control either of the fans besides the CPU one which is controlled by the pump anyway. But it's still weird lolz... I added another fractal design fan as a push fan and connected it to the system 1 fan header. In the bios it reports RPM around 1300-1400rpm, w**? Doesn't make sense, the fan isn't spec'ed at 1000rpm?

Arghhhhh

Learning curve take a long time for these things :\\


+/- 10% is a cushion spec'ed by the manufacturer based on power fluctuations, and not a 100% given. for the most part, it'll bounce around that 1000RPM mark with no noticable difference in performance. what motherboard do you have?

ALSO *please fill out your system specs in the form provided in the "User CP" link at the top of this page, so we can reference what you have without asking all the time. it's a great feature of the site, and be sure to keep it current so we can all help you better.


----------



## adi518

Patched up my profile.









PSU in the picture above is my old one.

So can I keep the Fractal fan connected? I'm not sure it can push up to 2000rpm. :\\


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *adi518*


Patched up my profile.









PSU in the picture above is my old one.


nice...good solid system you have!

well, i gotta hit the hay, hopefully someone else can chime in here...see ya around the boards.


----------



## reaver83

hmm, so the pump RPMs should be pretty low? Mine have hung around 2.8K the whole time I've had it. It's not loud, just seems to always be running around 2.8K to 3K RPMs. Doesn't seem to keep my CPU as cool as I expected. Should I contact Antec and see if there is a possible problem with mine? Is 2.8-3K alright for the 920?


----------



## adi518

That might be typical for the 920 but I'm unsure and I think the pumps in both 620/920 are the same except for that led and slightly different logo design. I might be wrong tho !


----------



## adi518

Hey guys I was thinking...is it possible to use a Y splitter on the pump fan connector to hook up 2 fans instead of one? It makes sense if the pump will control both fans equally but can it hurt anything?

I also read another interesting idea here:

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/sho...php?t=18269595

Hooking the pump to a 3 pin header (say, the system 1 fan) so it gets full 12v power and then connecting 2 fans via 4 pin Y splitter to the CPU header and control the fans speed upon load from the BIOS. This way, you can bypass the noisy antec fan, run two fans at slightly lower speeds and basically make the whole thing a lot more silent! Dunno why I didn't think of this before!









Who ever looks at my spec and thinking "stock speed??", well it's because I haven't figured the cooling solution yet. I hope to get it oc'd @ ~ 4.4Ghz.


----------



## reaver83

Much like adi518, I was wondering if plugging the pump into the CPU headermight be causing issues for me, since the CPU header is a PWM 4-pin. Should I try plugging it in a 3-pin header, since it is a 3-pin plug? that might would explain the high speeds of the pump, since if you plug a 3-pin fan into a PWM header it runs wide open. Also, if I'm not mistaken, there is a setting in BiOS that allows you to turn off the PWM on multiple PWM headers, converting it to a standard 3-pin header. May have to try this in a few. I also may have put way too much thermal compound on the pump, so... coming from a Socket A (462) processor to these, not used to using very little compound, and may have overdone it.


----------



## adi518

The pump should connect to the 4-pin cpu fan header. That's what the instruction say so it's 100% correct. Looks like the idea I gave earlier will work... I'm gonna do some more research and check my BIOS options for controlling the fans on the cpu header.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518;15250879*
> Who ever looks at my spec and thinking "stock speed??", well it's because I haven't figured the cooling solution yet. I hope to get it oc'd @ ~ 4.4Ghz.


I too am looking to achieve above 4GHz, simply cause I know on the stock cooler I could achieve 3.7 GHz no problem. My issue is what will the RAM do, cause I chose PC3 1600, later to find out my board only runs that overclocked. Every time I OC my RAM causes BSOD's.


----------



## poring

Have an antec 920!!


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poring;15258215*
> Have an antec 920!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Replaced the stock fans with GT AP-15s though. I could not tolerate the noise from the stock fans when they ran at anything above 1500rpm >.<


Yep, my guess is they include 2 of the same fan that comes with 620 which is no good if you want silence.


----------



## lagittaja

Afaik 620 and 920 have different fans. I could be wrong though









Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running InsertCoin


----------



## poring

Hehe, does the one on the 620 sound like a vacuum cleaner? If it does I assume its the same ~.~


----------



## CTV

Guys

I was wondering if any of you are aware of ANY issues with the Antec Kuhler 920?

Reason I am asking is that I heard (and personally experienced) some issues with the Corsair ones. These issues range from erratic fan behaviour (if connected to the built-in fan controller), fan controller not functioning at all, no lights light up, air in system loop & parts (palstic cover) coming off from early batches due to bad adhesive. Now recently there has been a partial recall on the the Corsair H100's.

Have any of you heard of or had personal similar bad experiences with the Antec Kuhler 920?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *poring;15259402*
> Hehe, does the one on the 620 sound like a vacuum cleaner? If it does I assume its the same ~.~


It's not too bad but it's most CERTAINLY not silent enough when the system is idling.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTV;15259495*
> Guys
> 
> I was wondering if any of you are aware of ANY issues with the Antec Kuhler 920?
> 
> Reason I am asking is that I heard (and personally experienced) some issues with the Corsair ones. These issues range from erratic fan behaviour (if connected to the built-in fan controller, fan controller not functioning at all, no lights light up, air in system loop & parts (palstic cover) coming off from early batches due to bad adhesive. Now recently there has been a partial recall on the the Corsair H100's.
> 
> Have any of you heard of or had personal similar bad experiences with the Antec Kuhler 920?


From what I understand Corsair H100 and Kuhler 620/920 are Asetek's latest gen builds and issues can pop up like always...it's warranted for 3 years so what the heck AFAIK, it's currently the best stuff you can get if you want this ready-to-go water-cooling solution. As you research you find out all these solutions are all made by Asetek anyway.


----------



## adi518

Even Intel seem to coop with Asetek on making the upcoming new high end processors run with a water cooling solution derived from the 920:

http://www.tweaktown.com/news/21059/sandy_bridge_e_to_ship_with_asetek_closed_loop_liquid_cooler/index.html?utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=facebook


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518;15259549*
> From what I understand Corsair H100 and Kuhler 620/920 are Asetek's latest gen builds and issues can pop up like always...it's warranted for 3 years so what the heck AFAIK, it's currently the best stuff you can get if you want this ready-to-go water-cooling solution. As you research you find out all these solutions are all made by Asetek anyway.


Not quite correct. Corsair have been using Asetek as OEM until they started doing business with Antec. Newer & future Corsair kits are now to be made by CoolIT.

The Antec Kuhler 920 is a Asetek product and the Corsair H80/H100 is a CoolIT product.

I personally purchased a Corsair H100 (CoolIT) and had to send it as it was faulty to start with.

As mentioned before, there are quite a bit of issues with the H80/H100 (CoolIT) kits. See my post - http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99732

Since I am in South Africa, I have to work through local distribution channels for RMA. Problem is I may end up getting the same stock replacment from the same faulty batch.

Maybe thinking of rather getting an Antec instead. That is why I wanted to know if any of you have had or heard of such bad experiences with the Antec Kuhler 920?


----------



## adi518

I read somewhere that even CoolIt has something do with Asetek. OEM stuff.


----------



## fishhawk

Coolit has nothing to do with Antec coolers, and Asetek has remaid there new gen coolers for Antec. And the stock fans on the 620 and 920 are not the same, 920 are higher cfms and dba, but there not that bad if you want extreem cooling and the 620 fans are almost as quiet as the ap 15. Specs for the 620 fan below it is a very great fan, with nice cfms and static pressure, but yes a bit loud on the wind side but not bad.

Bearing Type: Sleeve

Rated Volt: 12.0V

Rated Speed: 2,000rpm +/-10%

Max. Air Flow: 81.32 CFM

Max. Static Air Pressure: 3.394 mm-H2O

Noise Level: 27.36 dBA (Max.)


----------



## Cheaptrick

I'm using an Antec Kuhler H20 920 to cool my CPU. I'm also setting up a liquid cooling set up for my video cards. I like to match the tubing size of the Antec Kuhler with that of the tubes I'm using for my video cards liquid cooling set up. What's the size (ID) of the tube used in Antec Kuhler? Is that 3/8 or 1/2? What would be the best tube size for liquid cooling?


----------



## lagittaja

I think it was that 620 fan was uhm 7 bladed and 920 was 9 bladed. Correct?
But nevertheless, replacement fans are a MUST imho if any 620/920 user appreciates silence and high cfm.

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running InsertCoin


----------



## reaver83

The only issues I've heard of in the 920's is the pump going out, usually loud clicking noises coming from it. other than that, niether the 620's or the 920 suffer the Corsair issue of leaking.

Also, since you wanna point out all the Asetek spinoffs, Alienware and Dell have been using Asetek coolers in their XPS, Aurora, and Area 51 Models since `07. Which brings me to the thought, Which GUI controller works better, the Antec Chill Control V, Alienware's FX, or Aseteks spin on it? Anyone use anything other than Antec's in here?


----------



## CTV

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


The only issues I've heard of in the 920's is the pump going out, usually loud clicking noises coming from it. other than that, niether the 620's or the 920 suffer the Corsair issue of leaking.

Also, since you wanna point out all the Asetek spinoffs, Alienware and Dell have been using Asetek coolers in their XPS, Aurora, and Area 51 Models since `07. Which brings me to the thought, Which GUI controller works better, the Antec Chill Control V, Alienware's FX, or Aseteks spin on it? Anyone use anything other than Antec's in here?


What do you mean when you say "pump going out"? Do you mean on its way "dying" on you? If this is what you mean - does this mean it is a common thing for the 920's pump to break/die?

The Corsairs don't really suffer from "leaks" as you said (nor did I say that for that matter).

They (3rd generation units made by CoolIT like the Corsair H80/H100) rather have issues with the built-in fan controller (either not working correctly or dead) situated in the waterblock/pump unit and also that earlier shipments had issues where plastic covers came loose due to bad adhesive used.


----------



## aznguyen316

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*


I think it was that 620 fan was uhm 7 bladed and 920 was 9 bladed. Correct?
But nevertheless, replacement fans are a MUST imho if any 620/920 user appreciates silence and high cfm.

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running InsertCoin


Do u have a fan recommendation? I currently have the stock fan in a p/p as the pull fan into the case and at idle it is probably my loudest fan. I prefer silence over mad cfm as my CPU stays ridiculously cool with the kuhler. Thanks in advance.


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316;15264250*
> Do u have a fan recommendation? I currently have the stock fan in a p/p as the pull fan into the case and at idle it is probably my loudest fan. I prefer silence over mad cfm as my CPU stays ridiculously cool with the kuhler. Thanks in advance.


Gentle Typhoons.
Either 1450rpm or 1850rpm.
1850rpm at full isn't exactly quiet.
1450rpm at full, I can barely hear it.
If you are going to use a fan controller to set the speed of the fan then I would say get the 1850rpm models.
1850=AP-15
1450=AP-14

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running InsertCoin


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTV;15264048*
> What do you mean when you say "pump going out"? Do you mean on its way "dying" on you? If this is what you mean - does this mean it is a common thing for the 920's pump to break/die?


it's actually not a common thing, just a few people have had this problem, and I think it was related to the orientaition it was setup, followed by bad practice of turning it on directly after moving it, both of with are a serious NO! with any liquid cooled system


----------



## masonkian

can the 620 be modded at all ?

can the tubing be replaced ?
can it be mounted on a hd 5870 ?
can you add another gpu block to it ?

thanks in advance


----------



## adi518

I'd appreciate more feedback from those who use PP config with the 620. How did you connect the fans ?? Is it possible to use a Y splitter cable and connect two fans to the 3 pin pump socket? It might save me the search for 4 pin PWM fan as I will be able to use any 3 pin fan.

I also wonder if two 1700RPM fans will do the same if not better than one 2000rpm fan?

I mean, what max RPM for two fans do I need to equalize the performance of the single 2000rpm stock antec fan?

********************

I have a hunch that the idea of plugging two fans to the pump socket won't work or won't work as expected so I was thinking (like I mentioned before) of using a cpu header (4 pin) Y splitter cable and then plug two 4 pin PWM fans which will be controlled by the BIOS according to temp, and connecting the pump to a 3 pin header so it gets full speed (good thing it runs @ fixed speed).

I was thinking of this getting this 4 pin pwm fan. This one also comes with a Y splitter cable so it's a nice bonus (means it was designed with PP in mind).


----------



## aznguyen316

I just plug the second fan to a mobo cpu header and let it run..


----------



## adi518

Quote:



Originally Posted by *aznguyen316*


I just plug the second fan to a mobo cpu header and let it run..


That's what I initially did but I think it's not a good solution. You need 2 fans that change speed simultaneously, i.e., both run @ 1400RPM and both rise up to 2000RPM if needed. What I said earlier is that you can probably achieve same temps with 2 fans running slower than the stock fan spec.


----------



## aznguyen316

^yeah I'm sure it would be better to have 2 fans that are at the same RPM but no matter. I'm on 4.4Ghz OC at 1.32 and an hour of Prime gives me a max of 60C. I'm happy there.


----------



## TechSoldier

You should be able to run a y splitter to two fans without a problem however you need a 4-pin PWM fans otherwise your 3-pin fans will run at full speed.

The other thing you need to remember is that CFM is not directly related to RPM. In other words a higher RPM fan may not have the same CFM as a lower RPM fan due to design. This is why the Gentle Typhoons (AP-15) fan are so popular. They offer great CFM per RPM.

Lastly, high CFM doesn't mean that it will work best on watercooling. A good watercooling fan will provide a good amount of CFM along with high static pressure. This combination makes for a great watercooling fan or I should say radiator fan to be more specific.


----------



## Rage19420

In my quest to stuff a 620 on a pair of GTX 480's I had to gently bend the nozzle on one side.










Apparently I was so gentle that i knocked the the head of the screw off.



















Does anyone know what it is for and should i be concerned?


----------



## aznguyen316

Alrighty guys, you have convinced me to get a couple new fans for my P/P configuration lolz. I got 2x Gelid pwm fans + the PWM Y-cable. I'm mostly hoping for a quieter system.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420;15283523*
> In my quest to stuff a 620 on a pair of GTX 480's I had to gently bend the nozzle on one side.
> Apparently I was so gentle that i knocked the the head of the screw off.
> Does anyone know what it is for and should i be concerned?


did you know the PNY XLR8 GTX580 comes with the latest Asetek pumps connected to the GPU and another one for your CPU, followed by a radiator? caught this on their website.
not trying to promote anything, but, if you can get ahold of just the XLR8 cooling kit, not so much the whole card, can't be too much different than a GTX480. I mean yeah, they have different processors on them, but the overall bolt pattern of the GPU's hasn't changed much since the 9800GTX. just a thought. Also, heres a pic of the design


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15286880*
> did you know the PNY XLR8 GTX580 comes with the latest Asetek pumps connected to the GPU and another one for your CPU, followed by a radiator? caught this on their website.
> not trying to promote anything, but, if you can get ahold of just the XLR8 cooling kit, not so much the whole card, can't be too much different than a GTX480. I mean yeah, they have different processors on them, but the overall bolt pattern of the GPU's hasn't changed much since the 9800GTX. just a thought. Also, heres a pic of the design


Yeah I saw that. Not sure if they are selling the kits tho. Supposedly ZOTAC is selling the omni coolit kit but have yet to see them in the wild.


----------



## reaver83

I like that setup alot better! looks like it would work a little better for your board, since your using a board with the PCI-E slots extremely close together. That, and it adds more surface space to the cooler and extends out to the VRAM chips, whereas the PNY model simply seems to incorperate a standard heatsink and fan to the VRAM. Would most definately be more quiet.
My only thought is like you said, good luck finding them seperate from the card. Also, the use of flexhose is a little disturbing, with the know issues of the Corsair H50's having the pipes break. If I had the money, I'd definately buy just the cooler for my GTX460, and MAKE it work. These 55C days on my GPU are getting old! Definately not liking the very little air the Gigabyte Windforce setup actually moves. Might have to take the shroud off and see if I could change the fans to something with a little more Umm pha, say gentle typhoons


----------



## Chuckclc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420;15283523*
> In my quest to stuff a 620 on a pair of GTX 480's I had to gently bend the nozzle on one side.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Apparently I was so gentle that i knocked the the head of the screw off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know what it is for and should i be concerned?


Oh that is just sweet!!!







Im not seeing what screw you are talking about?


----------



## tehwalris

I just got my 620 yesterday, I love it! I get 26 degrees idle and 37 at stock 6 cores x 3.2ghz on my 1090T and 33 idle, and 41 load at 4ghz on all six cores. It's a great cooler








Here are some pics:


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTV;15259495*
> Guys
> 
> I was wondering if any of you are aware of ANY issues with the Antec Kuhler 920?
> 
> Reason I am asking is that I heard (and personally experienced) some issues with the Corsair ones. These issues range from erratic fan behaviour (if connected to the built-in fan controller), fan controller not functioning at all, no lights light up, air in system loop & parts (palstic cover) coming off from early batches due to bad adhesive. Now recently there has been a partial recall on the the Corsair H100's.
> 
> Have any of you heard of or had personal similar bad experiences with the Antec Kuhler 920?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CTV;15259803*
> Not quite correct. Corsair have been using Asetek as OEM until they started doing business with Antec. Newer & future Corsair kits are now to be made by CoolIT.
> 
> The Antec Kuhler 920 is a Asetek product and the Corsair H80/H100 is a CoolIT product.
> 
> I personally purchased a Corsair H100 (CoolIT) and had to send it as it was faulty to start with.
> 
> As mentioned before, there are quite a bit of issues with the H80/H100 (CoolIT) kits. See my post - http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=99732
> 
> Since I am in South Africa, I have to work through local distribution channels for RMA. Problem is I may end up getting the same stock replacment from the same faulty batch.
> 
> Maybe thinking of rather getting an Antec instead. That is why I wanted to know if any of you have had or heard of such bad experiences with the Antec Kuhler 920?


Finally got my replacement H100!

My initial unit had a batch/lot code of 11289403 and had fan controller issues.

The "supposed" problematic fan controllers came from batch/lot code 11359403 "only" (don't think so though).

My replacement unit has a batch/lot code of 11389403 - guys, please hold thumbs that this boy is the one to work its magic...


----------



## reaver83

I think I may have to re-seat my pump, since the Temps are, as I can tell from others, rather high for my Mostly stock settings. I have bumped the NB up just a bit, but the CPU and everything else is bone stock. Now, with Ambient Temps around my computer at 28C, running nothing for over 3 hrs, I get a Temps of: NB=47C, GPU=35C, HDD=32C (these 3 are from my NZXT probes which are known to be off by +/-5C), Core Temp=30, Liquid temp=37C, GPU=34C(MSI Afterburner). What should I do? Knock off 2 cores? Run stock NB? Re-seat the Pump? The only thing else I can think of is move the Server and laptop that are within 3 feet of each other. Just imagine the temps under a load in 38-40C ambient temps, which I get regularly. heres screen cap of idle stats.









*_NMD, figured out the problem, I've been manually entering the MAX voltage for this processor, decided to undervolt it. Now everything is running alot cooler_


----------



## nvspace126

I just installed the Kuhler 920 in my sig rig, and I had a question. Is it normal that I receive a CPU fan error! on boot? I read around, and people usually seem to just unable the warning message, I was wondering if I should do the same? The drivers are working properly, and the cooler is working without any problems, as is the PC, and I'm running at 34°C on idle.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nvspace126;15305969*
> I just installed the Kuhler 920 in my sig rig, and I had a question. Is it normal that I receive a CPU fan error! on boot? I read around, and people usually seem to just unable the warning message, I was wondering if I should do the same? The drivers are working properly, and the cooler is working without any problems, as is the PC, and I'm running at 34°C on idle.


The CPU fan error happens becaue the pump is not plugged into the CPU fan plug. This is normal and how it should be. You can turn the monitoring of for the CPU fan, then you wont get errors. If you can its also good to set monitoring on for the plug that the cooler's on.
Edit: CPU fans use a 4 pin PWM (speed controlled connector), while the cooler is not speed controlled and therefore uses a 3 pin plug.


----------



## AtomicFrost

Hello everyone.
I have a Antec Kühler H2O 620 coming in the mail along with my 2500K.*
Looks like I'll be joining this club next week.









Before it arrives I have a few questions, and I am hoping that some fellow owners could answer them for me.









1. Does anyone know what thermal paste the cooler has pre-applied? I only have some really old AS5 laying around here, and I really don't want to have to buy anything else.

2. Have any of you experienced a temperature change based on how the radiator was mounted? (Tubes coming out of the top vs out of the bottom)

3. (If you own a 2500K) What kind of temperatures have you seen when using ~1.4v? I have read a lot of different reviews about this cooler, but none have really used the 2500k. I'm hoping that it can handle 1.4v with the proper fans.









I can't wait to try this cooler out. Hopefully it will work pretty well with my set up. I have an existing fan so I will have a push/pull configuration.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AtomicFrost;15315286*
> 1. Does anyone know what thermal paste the cooler has pre-applied? I only have some really old AS5 laying around here, and I really don't want to have to buy anything else.
> 
> 2. Have any of you experienced a temperature change based on how the radiator was mounted? (Tubes coming out of the top vs out of the bottom)


paste is ShinEtsu X23-7868-2D, better than AS5.

and to 2, not really, but fan setup may change temps in some cases, antec recommends: case - <--(airflow) fan - rad.


----------



## AtomicFrost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Sainesk;15315345*
> paste is ShinEtsu X23-7868-2D, better than AS5.
> 
> and to 2, not really, but fan setup may change temps in some cases, antec recommends: case - <--(airflow) fan - rad.


I'll use the stock TIM then. I'm glad that they didn't cheap out on it.









I'll keep in mind how Antec says the air flow should be. I'll have to play around with which fan to put on each side. They will be different fans so I hope I don't have any air turbulence issues. I'll be running both at 100%.

+rep


----------



## Airrick10

Hi All! I want In...I just got the Antec Kuhler H2O 620 two days ago!







I would add myself but I don't know how that google spreadsheet stuff works.









Here are some pics


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10;15321469*
> Hi All! I want In...I just got the Antec Kuhler H2O 620 two days ago!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would add myself but I don't know how that google spreadsheet stuff works.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here are some pics


not to sound totally rude, but JEEZ! your 2 nVidia name brand video cards cost more than your Processor/cooling system combined! Bold move


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15324823*
> not to sound totally rude, but JEEZ! your 2 nVidia name brand video cards cost more than your Processor/cooling system combined! Bold move


LOL Thanks Reaver83! I hadn't thought about it but yup...you are correct! Gotta love those EVGA rebates though. Two rebates from my GTX460's SE=1 free Antec Kuhler H2O 620!









P.S. I'm getting my rig ready for BF3!


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316;15283873*
> Alrighty guys, you have convinced me to get a couple new fans for my P/P configuration lolz. I got 2x Gelid pwm fans + the PWM Y-cable. I'm mostly hoping for a quieter system.


I have those fans on my Antec Kuhler 620 and they work great! I have them both connected with a 4 pin splitter to a fan controller.... as far as screws go, I only used two screws on each fan and it works great. No need to go buy some screws at the lumber store.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10;15325068*
> No need to go buy some screws at the lumber store.


jeez, your spending $50-100 on a cooler, more on replacement fans, and your gonna cheap out on $.50 worth of screws? Not my idea of protecting a investment. Jeez, this is about the same as losing the oil drain plug on your car and shoving JB weld in the hole...


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15326207*
> jeez, your spending $50-100 on a cooler, more on replacement fans, and your gonna cheap out on $.50 worth of screws? Not my idea of protecting a investment. Jeez, this is about the same as losing the oil drain plug on your car and shoving JB weld in the hole...


LOL You're right...it was late when I was installing it and I just couldn't wait to do a push/pull!


----------



## tehwalris

I filmed a video of installing my kühler 620 and accelerated it 7.5 times. I went the cinema in the middle, that's why the lighting changes







I also pot the green things the wrong way round so the cold plate didn't fit, so I has to removed them and put them back on again. The video is here. It's in the ogg format that windows media player won't play but chrome and most open source video players should handle fine. Hope you like it


----------



## Davayy

Hey guys, quick question regarding 620 installation. Basically ive got a cm storm scout case, and the radiator will only fit in 1 way, to line up the screw holes . However this means that the radiator sticks out the side of the case ( where the window panel ), have any of you guys had this problem with this case or others? Im guessing i have to cut out the panel. Any suggestions? Thanks

EDIT: just read the post above but cant download the video ( on ipod ), tehwalris how did you fit it in with the side panel?


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davayy;15329043*
> Hey guys, quick question regarding 620 installation. Basically ive got a cm storm scout case, and the radiator will only fit in 1 way, to line up the screw holes . However this means that the radiator sticks out the side of the case ( where the window panel ), have any of you guys had this problem with this case or others? Im guessing i have to cut out the panel. Any suggestions? Thanks
> 
> EDIT: just read the post above but cant download the video ( on ipod ), tehwalris how did you fit it in with the side panel?


Like you saw I just got one recently (also have a scout). The radiator fits perfectly at the back (inside). This is the install procedure in short:
1.Unscrew two of the screws from the stock back led fan (Top left and bottom right)
2.Align the radiator with the screw holes on the stock led fan
3.Screw in the long black screws from the 620 kit in the place where you removed the stock fan ones, make sure they go all the way through and hold the radiator
4.Align the antec fan with the radiators screw holes (inside the case) so that the antec logo is touching the radiator and can't be seen (this is so the fan blows into the radiator.)
5.Screw the antec fan in with the two remaining screws
6.Hook up the antec fan to the plug comming from the pump/CPU plate

This way we're keeping the stock fan giving us a push+pull setup for around 20° lower temperatures then just pull.

Good luck with your build







if you need more help just ask


----------



## tehwalris

There's a picture of my mounting location a few pages back if that helps, but its older with one fan on it, have a look so you know what location if talking about


----------



## Davayy

Thanks , ive installed it like you said but which everway i orientate the radiator something doesnt fit. The only way i can fit it in is with the side panel off. Obviously im being stupid but i cannot seem to get it to fit .


----------



## tehwalris

Here's how it should be








Hope that helps


----------



## tehwalris

You should also turn off monitoring for the CPU fan as the kühler doesn't connect to that, but instead a 3 pin connector. If you leave monitoring on the motherboard will likely complaint


----------



## Davayy

Oh my god. Im an idiot. Right, when i say 'which everway i orientate it, it doesnt fit ' what i really mean is ' ive only tried to install it 2 ways. 1. The opposite to the way you have it, the reserviour at bottom at the top, clearly that didnt work. So i tried 2. Having the reserviour to the side panel side the only way i thought it could fit. Hence why i couldnt attatch the side panel. Many thanks for that picture, i feel like 5 yr old now.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Davayy;15329273*
> Oh my god. Im an idiot. Right, when i say 'which everway i orientate it, it doesnt fit ' what i really mean is ' ive only tried to install it 2 ways. 1. The opposite to the way you have it, the reserviour at bottom at the top, clearly that didnt work. So i tried 2. Having the reserviour to the side panel side the only way i thought it could fit. Hence why i couldnt attatch the side panel. Many thanks for that picture, i feel like 5 yr old now.


Don't worry, we all make mistakes, I got the green things round the wrong way and wasted 20 minutes. Upload a picture of the kühler in your rig








I'm always glad to help


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehwalris;15329420*
> I got the green things round the wrong way and wasted 20 minutes.


wow, glad to see I'm not the only one, was actually too ashamed to admit it those things are a real PITA to get loose from the bracket once they are on.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15330191*
> wow, glad to see I'm not the only one, was actually too ashamed to admit it those things are a real PITA to get loose from the bracket once they are on.


I used a pocket knife to push the little things in before pulling them out. The supplied instructions are aweful


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehwalris;15330569*
> I used a pocket knife to push the little things in before pulling them out. The supplied instructions are aweful


^This! Believe me, they aren't much better for the 920 model either. But, the 920, the CPU plug works fine on a PWM CPU header. Maybe it's cause it's external fans are PWM fans. But I do know you guy's woe's. My old HP the rear fan was a 3-pin fan, swapped it out with a higher CFM Molex fan. Int the HP BIOS there is no way to turn of monitoring for that header, so to keep my sanity, I found a 3-pin fan and mounted it on the Side panel to shoot air from out the case right on the HDD My brother still uses it as his gaming rig. (he got his hands on a Alienware GTX260 768MB card). Pretty Impressive for a Debranded and modified Asus M2N68-LA m-ATX computer. Plays APB and Vindictus and Portal 2 at Max Settings. One of my finer works.


----------



## jojoenglish85

Does anyone here have an extra the won't mind giving up for me? Would prefer the 920 but the 620 will do, send me a pm


----------



## mystikalrush

Figured id join the club, got my 920 on friday 10/14, now cooling BD i just got today.


----------



## PB4UGO

^nice!

while i'm here...regarding the 620...

anyone ever take the top cover off their pump unit? when handling it for mounting/reseating, i noticed that it seems like it just snaps on, but i'm hesitant to yank it off or twist it too hard because i'm not sure what else it's attached to. i'm thinking of drilling my "bubble" logo into it and backlighting it like i did with my GPU shroud, but if it's too much of a hassle, i wont. any ideas?

thanks!


----------



## Linkzor

I bought the 620, however I can't mount the backplate onto my motherboard (Asrock Z68 Extreme4). The holes on the backplate just don't line up with my mobo at all.

Has anyone else encountered this and is there a way around it? I am stuck with a seemingly useless product right now.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Linkzor;15351603*
> I bought the 620, however I can't mount the backplate onto my motherboard (Asrock Z68 Extreme4). The holes on the backplate just don't line up with my mobo at all.
> 
> Has anyone else encountered this and is there a way around it? I am stuck with a seemingly useless product right now.


Make sure your using the square backplate not the rectangular one for your i5. One hole should line up on each of the triangles (same hole on each). If your still confused then send in a photo


----------



## Linkzor

Yep I've been trying to use the square Intel backplate with the spacers in the holes for "1156" but they simply won't line up!

I've trawled through the Newegg reviews, one guy with an Asrock P67 Extreme4 had the same problem as me but managed to mount it using the 775 holes albeit at an awkward angle. I'll give it another go in a few hours.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Linkzor;15352881*
> Yep I've been trying to use the square Intel backplate with the spacers in the holes for "1156" but they simply won't line up!
> 
> I've trawled through the Newegg reviews, one guy with an Asrock P67 Extreme4 had the same problem as me but managed to mount it using the 775 holes albeit at an awkward angle. I'll give it another go in a few hours.


Can you please attach a photo?


----------



## AtomicFrost

Hey everyone quick question.

I noticed that the 620 only comes with 4 screws and washers to attach the fan to the radiator and the radiator/fan to the case.

I do want to use 2 fans in a push / pull config, but now I'm trying to figure out how to mount them.

1. Is it ok to just use 2 screws on each side?
2. Do any of you know what size / length the screws are, and does Home Depot sell them?

I'm thinking that using 2 on each side should be ok. It's not like the radiator with 2 fans on it weighs 10lbs.







I'll be getting it in the mail on Thursday so I'm starting to plan out how I'm going to install this cooler.


----------



## c0ld

I guess its fine to use 2, lets hope it does not vibrate just make sure you screw them from opposite sides. I guess they could sell the screws on the antec site since they sell products directly shoot them an e-mail or give them a call.

http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/index.php?page=support_custom


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AtomicFrost;15352934*
> Hey everyone quick question.
> 
> I noticed that the 620 only comes with 4 screws and washers to attach the fan to the radiator and the radiator/fan to the case.
> 
> I do want to use 2 fans in a push / pull config, but now I'm trying to figure out how to mount them.
> 
> 1. Is it ok to just use 2 screws on each side?
> 2. Do any of you know what size / length the screws are, and does Home Depot sell them?
> 
> I'm thinking that using 2 on each side should be ok. It's not like the radiator with 2 fans on it weighs 10lbs.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be getting it in the mail on Thursday so I'm starting to plan out how I'm going to install this cooler.


I use two on each side and it couldn't be held on any better








it works great


----------



## aznguyen316

Hey guys I got my GELID PWM Y Cable in but I'm confused... one is the female end, and the other two are male ends, but only one male end actually as 4 pins and it has a sticker on it saying "With fan speed signal" but the other male end only has 3 pins on it. Shouldn't both male ends have 4 pins so I can connect 2x PWM fans? or am I missing something.

Purchased this: http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=AA76523&pagetitle=Gelid%20CA-PWM-01%20PWM-Y%20Cable%20Adapter


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316;15356675*
> Hey guys I got my GELID PWM Y Cable in but I'm confused... one is the female end, and the other two are male ends, but only one male end actually as 4 pins and it has a sticker on it saying "With fan speed signal" but the other male end only has 3 pins on it. Shouldn't both male ends have 4 pins so I can connect 2x PWM fans? or am I missing something.
> 
> Purchased this: http://www.mwave.com/mwave/SKUSearch.asp?scriteria=AA76523&pagetitle=Gelid%20CA-PWM-01%20PWM-Y%20Cable%20Adapter


On a 3 pin fan connector one pin is power +, one is - and the third is for speed monitoring and pulses on every rotation. A 4 pin is the same but with an extra pin to control the fan. Your y cable is from 1. monitor and control (4pin) --to--> 2. Monitor and control (4 pin) -and- 3. Control (4 pin missing the monitor). The connector which is #3 here is NOT a normal 3 pin which provides only monitoring (but not control (PWM), it is a 4 pin with no monitor pin. The reason for this being that because the pin pulses on every rotation, if you were to merge them together you would get double the speed appear on your monitor (actually both added together). So this means that with this y cable BOTH fans are controlled to the same speed by the motherboard/fan controller but only ONE is monitored. So plug the one you want to monitor into the four pin, and the other into the other connector.
I hope that helps









Edit: I don't know why they don't mention this on the page


----------



## aznguyen316

I see, so I did not receive a busted y cable right? lol Great, I'll plug it into my push pull and see how it goes =) thanks a mil.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aznguyen316;15356842*
> I see, so I did not receive a busted y cable right? lol Great, I'll plug it into my push pull and see how it goes =) thanks a mil.


You're welcome, it should work fine


----------



## Linkzor

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Linkzor*


I bought the 620, however I can't mount the backplate onto my motherboard (Asrock Z68 Extreme4). The holes on the backplate just don't line up with my mobo at all.

Has anyone else encountered this and is there a way around it? I am stuck with a seemingly useless product right now.










Finally got the bloody thing mounted today. Had to use the socket 775 holes in the backplate to get it to align with my mobo.

Temps are decent so far; not exceeding 60 degrees, with my cpu @ 4.4ghz on 1.3v.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Linkzor*


Finally got the bloody thing mounted today. Had to use the socket 775 holes in the backplate to get it to align with my mobo.

Temps are decent so far; not exceeding 60 degrees, with my cpu @ 4.4ghz on 1.3v.

http://iforce.co.nz/i/mddumvfy.omk.jpg


it was a Awkward fit on my AM3 board as well. When I 1st tried to install it, none of the holes would line up EXACTLY, til I screwed one screw in at a time. Once all of them were in about 1/2 way down, I could put my fingers on each of the screws, and gently pull them to a straight up position. Of course, it would have been alot easier had I done a trial install with the double sided foam tape still covered, that way it wouldn't have been stuck slightly offset from the holes in the 1st place


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


it was a Awkward fit on my AM3 board as well. When I 1st tried to install it, none of the holes would line up EXACTLY, til I screwed one screw in at a time. Once all of them were in about 1/2 way down, I could put my fingers on each of the screws, and gently pull them to a straight up position. Of course, it would have been alot easier had I done a trial install with the double sided foam tape still covered, that way it wouldn't have been stuck slightly offset from the holes in the 1st place










Mine seemed to work straight away, but mines actually an am3+


----------



## c0ld

Yeah mine is kind of crooked too but the holes line up good. No worries.


----------



## Rage19420

In my quest to put a 620 on a gtx 480 I popped off one of the screw heads. Does anyone know what the side screws to the housing are for on the 620?

I popped one of the screw heads off (right side pictured) and am curious if there is any harm done.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Rage19420*


In my quest to put a 620 on a gtx 480 I popped off one of the screw heads. Does anyone know what the side screws to the housing are for on the 620?

I popped one of the screw heads off (right side pictured) and am curious if there is any harm done.

http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4710/dsc00588i.jpg
http://img412.imageshack.us/img412/121/dsc00589aw.jpg


alright, I've seen your posts before, and I am going to geive you a educated guess.

most of the screws I broke the head off of in anything, they were threaded in both pieces. That means, even though the head is no longer intact, the treads of the screw should still hold it in place.

Now, are you posting because it is leaking already? If so, then you have to get that out nd replace it. from what I can tell it holds the bracket in that the hoses pivot on. when lose, in theory, the hoses will start to losen. just keep tabs on it, you start to see moisture, take it back out, and get a set of reverse drill bits, (good luck with that). Nothing more I can tell ya, cause your using it for something it wasn't ment to be used for.


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


alright, I've seen your posts before, and I am going to geive you a educated guess.

most of the screws I broke the head off of in anything, they were threaded in both pieces. That means, even though the head is no longer intact, the treads of the screw should still hold it in place.

Now, are you posting because it is leaking already? If so, then you have to get that out nd replace it. from what I can tell it holds the bracket in that the hoses pivot on. when lose, in theory, the hoses will start to losen. just keep tabs on it, you start to see moisture, take it back out, and get a set of reverse drill bits, (good luck with that). Nothing more I can tell ya, cause your using it for something it wasn't ment to be used for.


Thanks, thats exactly what im doing-keeping an eye on it. Was trying to find some pics of the unit dissembled so i can see whats under the cap.


----------



## cravinmild

Rage, you should still have some threads left exposed. If you can, go to a home depot and get a thin nut and see if you tighten it onto what little is left of the treads. Even if you can grab a little of the threads it may be enough. If you dont plan on ever taking the hoses off and get abit of grab some crazyglue may just be enough.


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:



Originally Posted by *cravinmild*


Rage, you should still have some threads left exposed. If you can, go to a home depot and get a thin nut and see if you tighten it onto what little is left of the treads. Even if you can grab a little of the threads it may be enough. If you dont plan on ever taking the hoses off and get abit of grab some crazyglue may just be enough.


Yeah I may just do that. Im thinking i may want to rotate the pump assembly and run the tubing parallel to the card. A tube on each side of the fan. I would have to dremel out the inside of the cover a bit to insure that the tubes don't rub on the fan.


----------



## cravinmild

I had to run one tube down the side of the card and against of the mobo because of the way the 90* hook ups are coming off my H70, same issue as the pump on your unit. It caused excessive pressure where the tubes went into the pump. A problem it cause doing this was i lost alot of lenght in the tubing and it limmited where i could put the rad. My Matrix is now in the lowest 8x slot so the rad can reach and sit on the bottom intake of my HAF 932. If i redo the tim ill pull both waterlines out the back of the card and mount the rad in the front drivebay...like you.


----------



## AtomicFrost

Quote:



Originally Posted by *c0ld*


I guess its fine to use 2, lets hope it does not vibrate just make sure you screw them from opposite sides. I guess they could sell the screws on the antec site since they sell products directly shoot them an e-mail or give them a call.

http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/inde...support_custom



Quote:



Originally Posted by *tehwalris*


I use two on each side and it couldn't be held on any better







it works great


Thank you for the information on the screws. I'm thinking that I might take a screw and washer down to Home Depot to see if I can get 4 more. If I can't find anything that'll fit then I'll just use 2 on each side in a diagonal pattern. 







+REP

Is the radiator threaded all the way through on both sides, or is it possible to puncture it with a screw that is too long? I wish that Antec would list the specifications for the screws to use on their website. They have to realize that a lot of people use 2 fans.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *AtomicFrost*


Thank you for the information on the screws. I'm thinking that I might take a screw and washer down to Home Depot to see if I can get 4 more. If I can't find anything that'll fit then I'll just use 2 on each side in a diagonal pattern. 







+REP

Is the radiator threaded all the way through on both sides, or is it possible to puncture it with a screw that is too long? I wish that Antec would list the specifications for the screws to use on their website. They have to realize that a lot of people use 2 fans.


Mines in my case so I'm not sure, but I think its got 2.5ish mm of threaded metal on both sides and then hollow the rest of the way through. You won't be able to make a screw go through both threads because they go in different directions.

Thanks for the rep


----------



## budda_357

_Hi, Guys
I have had fun over the last week trying t install the chiller software on my system that had the OS OEM W7 64Bit Sp1 disc install RMA'd the first cooler after speaking to the distributor tech support (obviously they are not aware of this problem).
If you have the coolers USB cable connected to the mobo header when you select the finish on the chiller software you should see a panel appear asking permission to install the USB Driver software prior to reboot (does not happen so on reboot there is no auto install of the USB Driver or a new hardware wizard). Due to that not happening when you start the Chiller application on reboot you get the error message of USB can not connect to the coolers water block check USB Connection and restart application.








Remedy: Un-install the chiller software using Revo un-installer (need to get rid of all the leftover reg entries, program and user application data folders) here is the link product page http://www.revouninstaller.com/revo_uninstaller_free_download.html or any other un installer you know. unplug the coolers USB Cable (fans should ramp up to max this is normal)_ *Power down your PC unplug the PSU power cable unplug the coolers USB cable from your mobo header now plug-in power to PSU and reboot*Now insall the Chiller sofTware (latest version can be downloaded from the Antecs product page) now when select finish of the chiller software application install will see the panel to install the USB driver software.







Power down PC plug the Coolers USB cable to the mobo header and reboot. Should now see tray icon install the USB driver. Start the chiller software and should now function OK
*Suggestion by Antec support engineer:**If you still have a problem whilst system running (if you are not confident then get someone with technical knowledge to do for you) unplug the coolers USB cable and replug back in start the chiller application should remedy the problem*
_Hope this helps for anyone who has this problem_


----------



## viper522

I got a 920 and installed it yesterday (push/pull, oem fans). Reapplied AS5 to CPU (previously lapped) and cleaned the copper pump plate with alcohol before setting. Temps are easily 5-7c higher than my nearly-silent Thermaltake Big Typhoon tower air cooler. The pump gauge says it's almost maxed out and I have the fans set at ~1150rpm (so it's not silent but not noisy yet). what da hell? Luckily I still have the Big Typhoon - I may have to revert!


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *viper522*


I got a 920 and installed it yesterday (push/pull, oem fans). Reapplied AS5 to CPU (previously lapped) and cleaned the copper pump plate with alcohol before setting. Temps are easily 5-7c higher than my nearly-silent Thermaltake Big Typhoon tower air cooler. The pump gauge says it's almost maxed out and I have the fans set at ~1150rpm (so it's not silent but not noisy yet). what da hell? Luckily I still have the Big Typhoon - I may have to revert!


Did you clean both the pump plate and the cpu die before applying the paste?


----------



## viper522

Quote:



Originally Posted by *tehwalris*


Did you clean both the pump plate and the cpu die before applying the paste?


yes of course, I figured it was assumed I had cleaned the CPU before reapplying AS5. thanks for checking, sometimes simple things can be missed.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:



Originally Posted by *viper522*


yes of course, I figured it was assumed I had cleaned the CPU before reapplying AS5. thanks for checking, sometimes simple things can be missed.


Again, some more simple things (just in case







):
1. When you have heavy load (for example with prime in windows or stress in linux) does the radiator heat up?
2. Do the tubes heat up under heavy load?
3. Where in your case is your KÃ¼hler mounted?
4. Is the setup blowing the hot air in or out of the case?

I know they're stupid questions







, but just in case.


----------



## viper522

No, that's what I'm hoping to find, a stupid error on my part that will make a huge difference.

1) I've been Folding so I'm talking about 100% load temps 65-67c (61c max on the Big Typhoon). I will check the radiator temp when I get home. But liquid temp reaches about 10c above ambient (28c ambient, 38c+ liquid as measured in Chill Control).
2) I will have to check the tubes, but I assume with a liquid temp of less than 40c they aren't getting hot.
3 & 4) Rear exhaust of my CM HAF 912 - one fan outside, rad and second fan inside, p/p blowing outside the case.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522;15393146*
> I got a 920 and installed it yesterday (push/pull, oem fans). Reapplied AS5 to CPU (previously lapped) and cleaned the copper pump plate with alcohol before setting. Temps are easily 5-7c higher than my nearly-silent Thermaltake Big Typhoon tower air cooler. The pump gauge says it's almost maxed out and I have the fans set at ~1150rpm (so it's not silent but not noisy yet). what da hell? Luckily I still have the Big Typhoon - I may have to revert!


Just so you know, at 100% load, if you keep the Chill Control set on "Silent" the fans will not ramp up enough to keep your radiatior cool. Word to the wise:







1) drop the folding long enough to cool it down 2) set Chill Control for "Custom" 3) click the fan control and set it to where fans will ramp to keep the radiator to desired temps 4) watch the liquid temps as your folding and adjust fans as needed to keep cool.

It's time consuming, and more than likely, your not going to like how loud the fans have to be to keep it cool. This is why most people in here swap the fans for something quieter that keeps their radiator cool, like Gentle Typhoons. I know if I had the money to, I would do the same thing.


----------



## reaver83

Not to try and Double post, but today, I was rearranging my computer to set it up to make custom heat channels in it, and decided to try something. BTW, these stock Antec fans are Hella Loud outside the case. just so you know, after I did this I saw a 3C diff in CPU/liquid temps, and a 7C drop in NB temps. And it probably dropped the temps of my Voltage Regulators too, but I have no way of telling.


----------



## viper522

That's how my rad is setup, are you showing that you changed the top fan to intake?


----------



## reaver83

had actually turned it around the other day, just didn't take pics.

Actually, may have been your post that made me want to move the fan to the outside of the case. i figured, other than putting my fingers through the fan while trying to plug in a USB device in the back, couldn't hurt. so far i've seen nothing but improvements!









Only issue I have doing this is when I put my side panel on, I found out, the fan sticks slightly in the way of the rear tab where the screw goes in on it. Gonna have to shave one or the other so I don't bend it.


----------



## viper522

keep your fingers safe, plug in USB to the front LOL

yeah I'm idling at 51 just like the Big Typhoon, and I have tried all 3 profiles in CC (Custom: ramp start 27c, full fan 41c) and it's just noisy as hell with terrible temps. maybe half the liquid evaporated? lol


----------



## reaver83

for real! I need to find my old 120MM grill to go over it.

as for me, I keep my low at 28, and my high anywhere from 34-36. Need to put it where at 100% load, your temps only raise just a few degrees. if it means dealing with the noise, well, you decided to go that route when you bought it.


----------



## viper522

I went with a sealed water cooler because I thought it would be quiet and declutter the case, and possibly allow me to OC more while keeping the same load temps or better.

The BT takes up basically 120mm^3 and puts a lot of weight on the mobo due to its weight.


----------



## reaver83

yeah, see what you mean. With that setup I would definately have made some hangers or something to take the weight off the motherboard. This setup takes all the wieght off the motherboard, but the Stock fans are loud, and it puts all the weight on the back of the case, which most well built cases can support.


----------



## viper522

what's it take to replace the Antec fans? the y-splitter has different pins. I tried leaving one fan disconnected to use another fan plugged into a mobo fan header and the one Antec fan that was plugged in wouldnt spin up.


----------



## reaver83

try swapping the plugs for the fan coming off the pump. I think I remember one of the plugs is just relayed from the other plug to recieve info one how fast to move. AKA, if there isn't one plugged into the fan plug that sends the info, the one plugged into the reciever will not move cause it does not know how fast to spin. Make any sense at all?


----------



## viper522

yeah it makes sense but I don't approve of their methods lol


----------



## reaver83

jeez, bout to add yet another fan to my system to try and make air circulate through it. Made a lower partition using a 30 min parking sign I acquired at my last job. Need to cut out a 120MM hole and drill screw holes. Counting the 2 in the PSU and 2 on the GTX460, This will be fan #9. Thinking this Antec 650W may be reaching it's limit.









I'll post pics when I finish, even though case modding is not the subject matter. These are my peeps, though!


----------



## Derek1387

Just bought mine last night, LOVE it. Its in my SFF Lan Rig. Switched from the H50 over to this because of the waterblocks low profile so I could mount my HDD right under the PSU


----------



## Evil_Star

is the H20 620 worth the $60 newegg is wanting for it?


----------



## reaver83

yeah, just buy 2 fans for it, cause the stock one is loud, and with a 2nd you can setup a push/pull.

On a different note, I think my Mobo crapped out. If it did, I may be having Asus give me a different one, or at least try. Really do not like the AMD base Chipset.


----------



## viper522

I just changed to intake from exhaust, and temps are higher for both CPU and GPU. Going to try and clean cpu/water block, reapply TIM, and do it again. The way it jumps 15c as soon as I start folding is nuts, even the air cooler took some time to climb 10c.


----------



## reaver83

This is what I get for buying all the parts for a Brand new setup. No spares to eliminate bad parts. No Mobo, No processor, no RAM, No video card, No PSU... Up that creek w/o a paddle.


----------



## viper522

All I can offer is that you can test the PSU w/o the mobo by jumping the green wire (pin 16) and any black wire on the 24 pin ATX connector. Should fire up the fans and whatnot. If it doesn't your PSU is deadz0r.


----------



## reaver83

Thats the funny thing. Fans all come on, bottom LED's on my RAM come on, Kuhler starts pumping and fans work around Idle speeds, yet no post. I didn't OC it hard enough to do this much damage. Never let the temps get above 30C. PSU should have handled that, I think. Is a Antec 650W Truepower II too weak to handle this and a Single GTX 460 SE?

The only thing I can think of is that 4-Pin power plug felt like it was loose when I went to plug it back in earlier... GOD! I don't want to have to pull this motherboard out of this thing. Maybe I bumped the pump and it's not seated properly. I really need another PSU and at least DDR3 1036 RAM to test things with. The only spare PSU I have only has SATA plugs, and no PCI-E 6Pins. *Pulls hair out*


----------



## viper522

Alright so I need someone to please assess my needs here, and tell me honestly if the 920 is going to cut it as a cooler for me.

*Room temp:* 28C
*Folding:* SMP & GPU (100% load on both CPU and GPU)
*Setup:* Q9300 @ 3.1 (Big Typhoon & TT Smart Case Fan II) and a Galaxy GTX 460 1GB @ 820/2000 (stock cooling)
*Temps:* CPU 60C (almost silent) & GPU 60C (loud)

So I figured I could maybe take some heat out of the case since the BT just blows it straight thru the heatsink and onto the baseplate, mobo and RAM by installing a AIO water cooler - the Antec 920 - and it might reduce the temp of the GPU as well since the case should be theoretically circulating one less source of heat by blowing all CPU heat thru a rad and out the back of the case. Instead...

Antec OEM fans P/P as exhaust..
*Temps:* CPU 65C (loud) & GPU 64C (loud)

Well ain't that a... maybe I need to change it to intake on the 920 and add another top exhaust fan...

Antec OEM fans P/P as intake..
*Temps:* CPU 67C (loud) & GPU 67C (loud)

gah!!!

So what do I do? Throw a universal water block on the GPU and use that with the 920 and put a CM 212 P/P on the CPU aimed out the top vent of my case? Or just let everything run hotter and turn the fan profiles up a few notches? I'm really trying to keep everything in the mid-60s at full load and as quiet as possible. Is the 920 just not the solution for me?


----------



## reaver83

personally, What I did with my Antec Kuhler 920 was think realisticly. settled for roughly 33C idle temps on my CPU, (which is fine for a AMD CPU), and just adjusted the fans to keep it within -/+5C, so that the fans would not be loud constanly running on Extreme.

As for your setup, I do not know the average temps it runs, but if you gave us, say, what the temps are after running on Extreme for 30 mins, then silent for 30 min, both at idle, then I could tell you if it was practical to quiet it down with a custom fan setting.

Bah, who am I kidding, I still dun know what happened to MY computer, let alone what someone elses will do.







Best thing to do is to run it a while, As a Exhaust, (cause appearantly it's cooler in your case that way), set some time aside to write down info, say every 5 mins, then go from there. There is NEVER a just plug it in and whala! your setups is cooler. you have to adjust things to YOUR needs. Everyones computer runs different than the next persons. You can't just buy the exact same setup as someone pusing high benchmarks and expect to plug it in the exact way they did, and get the same numbers. you'll crash!


----------



## Davayy

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


Thats the funny thing. Fans all come on, bottom LED's on my RAM come on, Kuhler starts pumping and fans work around Idle speeds, yet no post. I didn't OC it hard enough to do this much damage. Never let the temps get above 30C. PSU should have handled that, I think. Is a Antec 650W Truepower II too weak to handle this and a Single GTX 460 SE?


If fans come on as well as LEDs then it's not the psu. Try reseating cpu, i had the same no post problem and reseating my cpu helped.


----------



## Pavix

Can someone help, the box says that the 620 is compatible with my 1155 but I couldn't get all 4 holes lined up. Does anyone have an asus P8P67 pro with this installed on it? The directions are aweful.


----------



## Sainesk

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pavix*


Can someone help, the box says that the 620 is compatible with my 1155 but I couldn't get all 4 holes lined up. Does anyone have an asus P8P67 pro with this installed on it? The directions are aweful.


sure you're using the holes for 1155?

the backplate should be tilted slightly to one side when installed correctly


----------



## Pavix

I didn't see 1155 holes, I saw 1156 holes but then I ran into the problem of only 3 of them lining up.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pavix*


I didn't see 1155 holes, I saw 1156 holes but then I ran into the problem of only 3 of them lining up.


mine mounted to my p8p67 pro using the 1156 holes, with the slightest tilt. been using (modded the hell out of it too) it for a few months now no probs.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Pavix*


Can someone help, the box says that the 620 is compatible with my 1155 but I couldn't get all 4 holes lined up. Does anyone have an asus P8P67 pro with this installed on it? The directions are aweful.


Sugestion: 1) don't take both sides of the Doublesided tape off til you line things upand have screws in the board. 2) Don't freak out if it don't line up perfect. Just put the screws in with it back from the motherboard, and tighten them 4 turns on one, move in a cross pattern, 4 turns on that one, move beside it, 4 turns on that one, move across, 4 turns on that one.

Keep doing this til right b4 the foam touches the board, then push it to the board to make sure it lines up, then pull back and remove the cover off the foam. Then and only then do you put the pump in, get it in the slots, then finish tightening the screws. *Be careful not to overtighten and snap your board!*


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Davayy*


If fans come on as well as LEDs then it's not the psu. Try reseating cpu, i had the same no post problem and reseating my cpu helped.


reseated, nothing. Thought the same thing before the PSU. I'm actually leaning more toward Currupt BIOS ROM chip, or RAM. Wish I had a PSU, RAM, and AM2+-AM3 board to test my theory. I only AM2 board I have doesn't support anything past the Athlon64X2 4800+, and nothing above 95W. I think I have a friend that has a AM2+ with a 945 Denebe, and 1066 RAM, but I can't freakin get ahold of him!!!!!


----------



## Davayy

You could take it to a pc shop and ask if you could test it on a dif board , not sure how willing they would be. Goodluck.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Davayy*


You could take it to a pc shop and ask if you could test it on a dif board , not sure how willing they would be. Goodluck.


sadly, I have no money, no job, and the PC shops want over $150 USD just to look at a prefab computer, let alone a custom build. Besides, I don't trust my baby in the hands of some quack that don't even know 1) jack about liquid cooling, 2) has never even heard of Alienware, not that I am a fan. thats the kind of shops we got here. 
These guys here if they looked at my computer, they would say "theres your problem, you got a gosh darn car heater core in there. It's getting to gosh darn hot" They don't even have replacement parts in their shop, *** is that about? What they do have is New HP's and Toshiba laptops in there. I asked how much it would cost for replacement RAM, they brought me out PC-3200 1GB sticks, said that was the best they had, and 2 sticks cost $100 USD


----------



## viper522

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


they would say "theres your problem, you got a gosh darn car heater core in there. It's getting to gosh darn hot"


aaaaaaaaaaahahahahahahahahaha i got up to take care of the dog and I read this. made it worth waking up in the middle of the night.


----------



## CTV

Guys

I just got my new 920 today after 2 faulty corsair h100's in a row. I hooked it up outside my chassis to ensure its functional before installing it completely. The pump appears to be working and the unit lights up as it should. How loud is the pump supposed to be? Mine has a light/gentle purr to it, I assume this is normal? How loud should it be? Almost inaudible or slightly audible?


----------



## viper522

I absolutely can't hear the pump (at 100%) over the fans (at 600rpm), if that tells you anything.


----------



## reaver83

make sure to lean your computer to where the radiator is higher than the pump for a few mins, as these things do leave room for expansion of the liquid. if it's really loud, TURN IT OFF and do this. This is Especially bad if you have mounted the radiator inlet/outlet tubes lower than the inlet/outlet Tubes of the pump.


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15453785*
> make sure to lean your computer to where the radiator is higher than the pump for a few mins, as these things do leave room for expansion of the liquid. if it's really loud, TURN IT OFF and do this. This is Especially bad if you have mounted the radiator inlet/outlet tubes lower than the inlet/outlet Tubes of the pump.


You may be right. As I said I hooked it up outside my PC without completely installing the unit (did not want to go through all the trouble and have a 3rd repeat to remove a faulty unit - like my 1st and 2nd Corsair H100's).

Since it was outside the chassis, the pump/waterblock and the radiator were at the same height level (due to being put on the floor).

To inspect how loud the unit is and to see if it is normal, I have lifted the pump/waterblock up _slightly higher_ that the radiator still stationary on the floor to bring it closer to my ear while bent down on my knees. This may be exactly what you were explaining to me (positioning).

Look, I *won't* say its VERY loud, just a light/gentle purr to it - just wanted to confirm if this is _normal_ so I can install the unit completely.

What I will do is try what you suggested and see if I can take a video or audio clip and post it here tonight when I get home so you guys can be the judges of it?


----------



## reaver83

These things do make SOME noise, but not as much as the fans. The little bit of noise they do make, will be completely gone in a closed case. I mean, any pump that spins 3000RPMs is going to make noise. But TBH, isn't it WAY quieter than installing a HS with 120MM fans or larger? I think the noise your hearing is probably normal, if you have to get on your hands and knees to hear it









also, for reference, since there is a small pocket of air in these systems, I would not suggest mounting the intake/outlet tubes of the radiator on top, I'd mount them toward the bottom simply because if there is air in the pump, it will bubble up into the radiator, whereas on top, it will continue to suck air. Personally, if I had a little more head-room above my motherboard in my case, I woul mount it on the top exhaust fan slot, just think that would be so much better.


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15456902*
> These things do make SOME noise, but not as much as the fans. The little bit of noise they do make, will be completely gone in a closed case. I mean, any pump that spins 3000RPMs is going to make noise. But TBH, isn't it WAY quieter than installing a HS with 120MM fans or larger? I think the noise your hearing is probably normal, if you have to get on your hands and knees to hear it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, for reference, since there is a small pocket of air in these systems, I would not suggest mounting the intake/outlet tubes of the radiator on top, I'd mount them toward the bottom simply because if there is air in the pump, it will bubble up into the radiator, whereas on top, it will continue to suck air. Personally, if I had a little more head-room above my motherboard in my case, I woul mount it on the top exhaust fan slot, just think that would be so much better.


Makes sense. I will give it a bash tonight when I get home and report back with some findings. Thanks


----------



## viper522

I didn't know about the air pocket thing. I assumed they were pretty well setup from the factory, or that the bubbles would work themselves out as they were circulated through the system.

I r/r the pump last night before settling in to play BF3. While it was off I cleaned and reapplied TIM very carefully. It seems to have made a significant difference, putting me inline with the TT Big Typhoon temps, although it is louder for the same performance. Still on the fence as of right now.


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15456902*
> These things do make SOME noise, but not as much as the fans. The little bit of noise they do make, will be completely gone in a closed case. I mean, any pump that spins 3000RPMs is going to make noise. But TBH, isn't it WAY quieter than installing a HS with 120MM fans or larger? I think the noise your hearing is probably normal, if you have to get on your hands and knees to hear it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also, for reference, since there is a small pocket of air in these systems, I would not suggest mounting the intake/outlet tubes of the radiator on top, I'd mount them toward the bottom simply because if there is air in the pump, it will bubble up into the radiator, whereas on top, it will continue to suck air. Personally, if I had a little more head-room above my motherboard in my case, I woul mount it on the top exhaust fan slot, just think that would be so much better.


Then what about waterblock/pump orientation? Any suggestions?


----------



## reaver83

I don't think there is any "sweet spot" in the orientation of the pump. As a matter of fact, about a week ago, a Antec rep chimed in on here and claimed that it should not matter which way you apply your pump. I was in the process of testing a different orientation when my Computer quit, do to what I think was complications with the RAM.

As a Commercial Fisherman, (at one time), I've dealt with many large pump setups, and TBH, straight up and straight down usually cause the most strain on large pumps, simply cause it's hard to keep them primed, or gravity pulling the weight. I was going to try at a semi-top mounted inlet/outlet tube setup, with the tubes just 3 notches Clock-wise from straight up.








Far as these things go, finding that "Sweet spot" for each individual computer is still trial and error, none of which, I think, will put it in harms way.


----------



## CTV

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


I don't think there is any "sweet spot" in the orientation of the pump. As a matter of fact, about a week ago, a Antec rep chimed in on here and claimed that it should not matter which way you apply your pump. I was in the process of testing a different orientation when my Computer quit, do to what I think was complications with the RAM.

As a Commercial Fisherman, (at one time), I've dealt with many large pump setups, and TBH, straight up and straight down usually cause the most strain on large pumps, simply cause it's hard to keep them primed, or gravity pulling the weight. I was going to try at a semi-top mounted inlet/outlet tube setup, with the tubes just 3 notches Clock-wise from straight up.








Far as these things go, finding that "Sweet spot" for each individual computer is still trial and error, none of which, I think, will put it in harms way.


Hi again. Finaly at home in front of "the other wife" I have again connected the 920 outside the chassis for testing before diving in and installing it completely.

I used a 3-pin fan connector extension cable to hook up the pump so it can reach comfortably outside the chassis. I orientated the radiator that the inlet/outlet pipes are at the bottom (facing downwards toward mother earth). I ensured that the waterblock/pump is situated lower than the radiator as you suggested - still hearing the light purr (almost like a fishtank pump). I played with different orientations for the waterblock while still ensuring it is slighly lower than the rad - same results?

Somewhere I read that the 3-pin motherboard fan header can push out lower voltage due to the motherboard BIOS setting. To investigate if this was the case I used a molex to 3-pin fan adapter to ensure the pump get a full 12 volts. Thereafter I started up the unit - again same light purr noise from the pump.

I tried fiddling a little bymoving the rad and/or waterblock/pump units - same results.

I will edit this post in a couple of minuted to include a video upload to illustrate the sound coming from the unit


----------



## reaver83

Like I said before, I think the little bit of purring noise is the average noise it makes. I don't think it will be noticable once the computer is all together. 1 thing to note though, with it plugged into the motherboard, turn off all Cool&Quiet, or the Intel Equivalent, as it will mess with the pump. Now, I'm not sure about plugging it into a 4-pin PWM header makes any difference than pugging it into a 3-pin fan header, haven't tried, can't right now. Also, not sure if these things were designed to run flat, parallel with the floor either.


----------



## PB4UGO

Or just plug it into a PSU molex...100% all the time.


----------



## reaver83

can you do that and still have control over it? I mean, I kindda figured that is why it has the USB plug on it, but it doesn't mess up the fans, or the readout on the Chill Control App?


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15469420*
> can you do that and still have control over it? I mean, I kindda figured that is why it has the USB plug on it, but it doesn't mess up the fans, or the readout on the Chill Control App?


i'd hook up the fans to a fan controller or psu for 100%. for the 920, sure, usb for chill control. i keep my 620 pump(no usb) plugged into my psu so it's always running full speed. it's so quiet anyway. sorry, didn't catch that you have the 920.


----------



## CTV

Quote:



Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*


Or just plug it into a PSU molex...100% all the time.


For testing purposes, I also used a molex to 3-pin fan adapter. Same result as hooking it up directly to a motherboard fan header.


----------



## milidna13

Quote:



Originally Posted by *poring*


Have an antec 920!!








Replaced the stock fans with GT AP-15s though. I could not tolerate the noise from the stock fans when they ran at anything above 1500rpm >.<


Hi there i'm planning 2 x AP-15s for my Antec 920 as well. Did you connect them to the splitter? And does the chill software work with this setup?

Thanks


----------



## CTV

Quote: 
   Originally Posted by *reaver83*   Like I said before, I think the little bit of purring noise is the average noise it makes. I don't think it will be noticable once the computer is all together. 1 thing to note though, with it plugged into the motherboard, turn off all Cool&Quiet, or the Intel Equivalent, as it will mess with the pump. Now, I'm not sure about plugging it into a 4-pin PWM header makes any difference than pugging it into a 3-pin fan header, haven't tried, can't right now. Also, not sure if these things were designed to run flat, parallel with the floor either.  
I did not lay it flat or anything like that. I held it in my hands the same way it would be orientated when fitted permanently inside the chassis. The fan extention cable was long enough for me to confortably do this outside the chassis.

Here is a link to the sound I am hearing (ignore the background interference):    
 You Tube  



 
 I also put the unit inside my case and closed my side panels to hear how loud it is inside my chassis. It is quiter than outside. Almost inaudible then. Can barely hear it when my fan controller is set to low for the chassis fans. Only my _current_ Cooler Master SickleFlow fans are still running at 100% on my Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU heatsink which is louder that the pump on the 920.


----------



## lagittaja

If someone cares, here's my setup.
Old picture, 140mm not present and neither is the GTX470 which I currently have
















Fan rpm's when idle/boincing:
X-Silent 140mm on the top cover=400-410rpm
2x GT-AP15 on the 620 rad=730-740rpm
1x GT-AP14 on the frontpanel=1450rpm 24/7 (afaik, it's connected to the 620 unit)

Idle temps with above fan setting with 1600Mhz and 1.200v =~30*C
WCG max load temperature with same fan setup 4000Mhz and 1.200v =58*C (~50-58-54-52 / +-2*C)

Playing BF3 @1080p&ULTRA -> 64player MP (CBorder/DPeak) with fans on 100%, 4800Mhz and 1.400v =max temps according to real temp 61-68-65-64

I love this unit and I love my computer, although I have hate/love relationship with the GPU.
OT
Yeah it's powerful but geez ain't it LOUD and like a sauna when under load even with stock settings








I play BF3 with bulletproof settings and *100%* fan speed, 825mhz core/1900mhz memory and 1087mv.
Temps go 80*C on the core and *57*C on the pcb*








/OT


----------



## viper522

Sure you didn't take that pic in Australia? Looks upside down!


----------



## reaver83

WHAT CASE IS THAT!!! It's orented the same way my old HP was, and I think it is a Excelent way to do things. Yeah, Motherboard is upside-down, and all the plugs are on the wrong side. But it actually makes a little more sense in my HP, case the PSU is a top mount. With the board upside down, it puts the CPU even further away from the PSU, keeping things ALOT cooler. I want THAT case! I love the inner design!


----------



## viper522

his siggy says Lian Li PC-A05N


----------



## lagittaja

Yes viper522, that is a PC-A05*N*
reaver83, I HIGHLY recommend it if you are considering a new case.
Only modifications you need to do are a air hole for the psu on the floor of the case, and either modify the existing top cover to accept 120/140mm fans or order the Lian Li replacement top which accepts one 140mm fan.
I have done the psu air hole and I bought the replacement top cover









You can find more info here:
http://www.overclock.net/computer-cases/880913-official-lian-li-pc-a05-club.html


----------



## reaver83

yeah, unfortunate I did see this case when I built my system. Maybe next upgrade, and then my bro can have this sexy NZXT Guardian case. Looks great, horrible space and airflow









I wonder how much bigger that case is. mine is 21cmX45cmX49cm (WidthXHeightXDepth) pretty small for a full tower IMO. My midtower HP is almost as tall as it!


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


yeah, unfortunate I did see this case when I built my system. Maybe next upgrade, and then my bro can have this sexy NZXT Guardian case. Looks great, horrible space and airflow









I wonder how much bigger that case is. mine is 21cmX45cmX49cm (WidthXHeightXDepth) pretty small for a full tower IMO. My midtower HP is almost as tall as it!


Dimensions(W/H/D) 210mm x 381mm x 490mm
So the A05N is 7cm less tall








But still fits ATX mobo









Awww too bad, well maybe next upgrade you'll join us Lian Li A05 lovers









Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running Cool3D AceS v3


----------



## Starla4

I Just finished installing my Antec Kuhler 920 and had no issues whatsoever, the only thing I noticed is that the LED Logo remains ON after shutting off the pc, does anyone know if this is normal ?


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Starla4*


I Just finished installing my Antec Kuhler 920 and had no issues whatsoever, the only thing I noticed is that the LED Logo remains ON after shutting off the pc, does anyone know if this is normal ?


I'm not sure if that is what they intended it to do, but with recent advancements in these newer motherboards, the suspend modes of these motherboards does not completely turn power off to the USB ports, so probably just a mishap, but I think it may be for the better.

Quote:



Originally Posted by *lagittaja*

Dimensions(W/H/D) 210mm x 381mm x 490mm
So the A05N is 7cm less tall 
But still fits ATX mobo

Awww too bad, well maybe next upgrade you'll join us Lian Li A05 lovers


It's funny how a little bit of space management goes a LONG way, huh? Wish I had a blank case I could mess around with. Though I'd use the front cover of the Guardian, I would totally work the insides like you Lian Li, get eh best of both worlds, looks and functionality


----------



## trumpet-205

How does 620 and H60 compare to Hyper 212? I'm debating whether to buy another Hyper 212 EVO or 620/H60 for my mom's PC.


----------



## Davayy

if you mum does gaming then get the antec, if she just does browsing, typing ect, the standard cpu heatsink with the cpu should be fine.


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Im loving my 620 idles at 25 and running occt gets to 52c


----------



## trumpet-205

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Davayy*


if you mum does gaming then get the antec, if she just does browsing, typing ect, the standard cpu heatsink with the cpu should be fine.


Her PC is HTPC. But her PC is quite crowded (mATX). 620/H60 intrigues me because of their compact size. I'm asking will there be any significant temperature differences.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trumpet-205;15494820*
> Her PC is HTPC. But her PC is quite crowded (mATX). 620/H60 intrigues me because of their compact size. I'm asking will there be any significant temperature differences.


there will not be much of a difference. i have both. i prefer the water because i wanted yet another thing to mod, and that's all.


----------



## reaver83

:teaching:Heres the way I see these quick Water-cooled setups:









They are basically a alternate means of transfering heat from one area to the next. the more open your case is with more airflow, the cooler your system will get, just like adding a larger heatsink, minus the weight and large area it takes up. This in turn is replaced by a large, almost if not more heavy radiator with the fancy option to be mounted somewhere to extract the air out of the the case, cool the fins, and push the heat out the rear of the computer.

The more compact the setup, the closer it is to vital parts, and you have just added a heater in your computer instead of a cooler. With my 920, I went as far as mounting one of my fans (dangerously) on the outside of my case, so that I could move my radiator further away from the Voltage cores and CPU water block, and saw a little better temperatures, about 3C. In a HTCP setup, I'm afraid it would be just not effective, if not worse than a standard heatsink. But, they make better heatsinks than stock too, that are rather quiet.


----------



## Blood-Fox

Just got my 620 in the mail today


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83;15494938*
> With my 920, I went as far as mounting one of my fans (dangerously) on the outside of my case, so that I could move my radiator further away from the Voltage cores and CPU water block, and saw a little better temperatures, about 3C. In a HTCP setup, I'm afraid it would be just not effective, if not worse than a standard heatsink. But, they make better heatsinks than stock too, that are rather quiet.


why is mounting your fan outside the case dangerous...? you succeeded in taking the final element out of the equation...internal case heat...so you did the right thing and lower temps would be expected. no more can be done at that point.
but i question your reasoning behind that. getting the radiator 1 more inch away from the cpu zone is not what made the difference...ambient heat will not warm up the water THAT much. you got your temps lower by moving your fan to the outside of the case where internal case temp is no longer a factor. it's a win-win regardless. just don't go reaching back there all willy-nilly!


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Ok guys just got my 620 and the fan only runs at 1415 according to bios. How would I make it run 2000 I have gone into bios and changed to manual with still no luck .The mb im running is asus sabertooth 990fx any help would be appreciated. I have it all hooke up like it says in manual


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pinkfloyd48;15497910*
> Ok guys just got my 620 and the fan only runs at 1415 according to bios. How would I make it run 2000 I have gone into bios and changed to manual with still no luck .The mb im running is asus sabertooth 990fx any help would be appreciated. I have it all hooke up like it says in manual


the 1415 RPM you're seeing is the pump speed, not the fan speed. as long as your fan is hooked up to a mobo header with speed control turned off, then you're running the fans at full speed.


----------



## pinkfloyd48

so your hooking up your fan seperate or hooking into the pump connection


----------



## Panickypress

hello, i'm sorry about the question if this has been discussed before, but has anyone tryed mounting the 920 to the gpu? reason is that i'm building my own waterloop for the cpu and i thought i could save some $ using the spare 920, and if it works i'll get another 920 for my second gpu


----------



## DerComissar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Panickypress;15498743*
> hello, i'm sorry about the question if this has been discussed before, but has anyone tryed mounting the 920 to the gpu? reason is that i'm building my own waterloop for the cpu and i thought i could save some $ using the spare 920, and if it works i'll get another 920 for my second gpu


Have a look at this thread, then check out the other threads linked there from members here that have done this mod:
www.overclock.net/amd-ati/1153671-thoughts-new-club-checking-interest.html


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *trumpet-205;15492051*
> How does 620 and H60 compare to Hyper 212? I'm debating whether to buy another Hyper 212 EVO or 620/H60 for my mom's PC.


Hi

I had a CM Hyper 212 Plus. Changed over to the 920 and experienced about a rough 5 degrees celcius drop on my i7 2600K (stock) using the same CM SickleFlow's that I had on the 212, now on the 920.

The results I guess depends on the chassis, the airflow setup etc .

If you still want to stick with aircooling, maybe you can also look at the new Hyper 612's?


----------



## c0ld

So the Scythe AP-15's are not able to be plugged into stock connectors on the Antec 920? Or can they? I really want to be able to control them from the Chillcontrol.


----------



## Ivan TSI

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld;15502742*
> So the Scythe AP-15's are not able to be plugged into stock connectors on the Antec 920? Or can they? I really want to be able to control them from the Chillcontrol.


Yes and no, you can connect them to the 920 but they will run @ max speed since they aren't pwm you can't control them with the 920 software


----------



## Frankpaintbrush

I just got my 920 from newegg this morning and was about to install the unit when I noticed they give some rather obtrusive blue fasteners for the intel bracket. Do you think it would mess up the mounting if I spray painted these black?


----------



## Rage19420

Heres an update on on my Antec 620 GPU mod, moved the RADS up top.

http://www.overclock.net/nvidia-cool...l#post15496856


----------



## reaver83

*Update*
For those who have been following my woes, Got good news and bad news.









Good news is I am resonably sure I know whats wrong with my computer now.

Bad news is it's my motherboard.

When I got the new RAM in, I tested it, same problem. Tried w/o my video card, fans never speed up like it's posting, no post beep. Went to take the motherboard out of my case, and the NorthBridge heatsink wiggles like its not on tight. Reasonably sure, if the NB was loose the whole time, it's fried. I mean, I was getting pretty hot readings when I put my case probe in the NB heatsink, so I have no doubts it was loose. And that being said, thats probably where all that heat was coming from in my case. So now the fun part starts, my first RMA to Newegg, as it had a 1 year warrantee through Newegg, and then 3 more years from Asus.

I just have 1 problem, how to get the foamy crap off the back of my motherboard from the Kuhler mount, and When I get the new one in, what should I use to replace it? Should I call Antec and ask them?


----------



## apav

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Logical Error;13687641*
> That is correct. The rear top fan must be moved for it to fit in the Phantom but will fit in the 600T. Oh man is the 600T looking like a sxy case! I JUST got a new antec 900 two v3 a week ago, lol and I already want the 600T, in white of course!


Anyone know how to do this in the Phantom case? I'm not sure if you can see in this picture, but half of the other fan slot is being clocked by the top of the case:









If I move it there, won't it block air from being pushed out?


----------



## emiven

hi there! i got a 920, and i was wondering, my 2600k at stock is 57c at full load in prime 95.
isn't that to high?
btw here it is


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



Originally Posted by *emiven*


hi there! i got a 920, and i was wondering, my 2600k at stock is 57c at full load in prime 95.
isn't that to high?
btw here it is







could join?

EDIT: dammit, haha im a noob to this forum, how do you upload pictures? -.-


try flipping the radiator were the tubes are on the bottom, see if maybe your getting air pockets in the system. Most people do not understand that they have to allow room for the liquid to expand, since there is no reservor to adjust for liquid expansion due to heat. I know this puts a damper on how it looks in your case, but, you are paying $90 for a liquid cooled setup, where as one with a reservor will cost as much as $600-1k.

Aslo, any thoughts on how to get the Foam double-sided tape off the back of the motherboard? They want this thing in pristine condition with the stock mounting bracket on it when I RMA it


----------



## subassy

I just won a 620 at a LAN party. Never installed a water cooler before or got into that sort of thing. I'm thinking about starting a thread to record my attempts to assemble/install it. Hilarity may or may not ensue...


----------



## reaver83

you win things at LAN parties? sign me up! LAn parties in my area consist of guys getting together to play halo trial or AOEII Conquers Edition. Maybe some MW, if all the computers can handle it above 20 FPS


----------



## Willhemmens

I'm currently reviewing the Kuhler 620 and 920. I'm testing the 920 first and I notice the pump is making quite a loud ticking noise. I'm going to leave the system on over night anyway but do you guys have any tips for getting rid of the noise? I've tried shacking and turning the case upside down ect. I have the 620 running on its own and that appears to be must quieter.


----------



## reaver83

well, is it attached to the motherboard while making these noises? Appearantly Antec has the 920 rated for the pump speeds to vary from 2500RPM to 3K, which I would think that anything moving at that rate of speed would make some noise. Is it any louder than the stock Antec fans? The only time I could even notice the noise in mine was when the Chill Control would throttle the fans below 900RPM's


----------



## Kai-

Quick question, what size screw does the Rad take? m3 sized or m4 sized?

edit: on the 620, though I assume they are same for both


----------



## lagittaja

Quote:



Originally Posted by *Kai-*


Quick question, what size screw does the Rad take? m3 sized or m4 sized?

edit: on the 620, though I assume they are same for both


Afaik its something between those sizes

Sent from my overclocked HTC Desire running Cool3D AceS v3


----------



## dr.noob

Zero noises, i really like the 620!


----------



## Rage19420

BTW Best Buy is blowing out the Antec 620's for $49 w/free shipping
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/Antec+-+...&skuId=3474129


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:



Originally Posted by *dr.noob*


Zero noises, i really like the 620!













Very well done. Theres a new club we are trying to get interest on of mods such as yours. http://www.overclock.net/amd-ati/115...-interest.html

I slapped a pair on my 480 SLI http://www.overclock.net/nvidia-cool...l#post15282885


----------



## Raephen

Too bad it's neither of the two you mentioned, but an imperical screw size: 6-32.
The good news first: it seems a lot of rads use this size.
The bad news: At least here in Europe, it's not a hop over to your local DIY store to get some.
There are, however, more than enough manufacturers that produce these, with watercooling setups in mind. You could try at a webstore that sells WC kits. That's how I managed a p/p on my 620.
Good luck hunting!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kai-;15564142*
> Quick question, what size screw does the Rad take? m3 sized or m4 sized?
> 
> edit: on the 620, though I assume they are same for both


----------



## Anusha

I have a 620 in a system having a 2600K CPU clocked to 4.5GHz. When running Prime95, it goes up to 78ish C. (hottest core)

This is with two blade master fans running at full speed, and in a case with great airflow - the Raven RV03. The radiator is installed at the top, cool air coming in from both the bottom and front of the case.

CPU is only at 1.35V. Looks too hot for those settings, don't you think? For example, my old MUX-120 was only 5 degrees warmer.

I have some MX4 lying around. I installed the waterblock with the thermal paste which came applied on the waterblock. Am wondering if I should reseat using MX4.

What do you guys think?

P.S. The ambient room temp is below 25C.


----------



## reaver83

Thats wheird, usually someone chimes in at least once a day. I would think that MX4 would be great, seeming how I noticed very little difference cleaning it and using AS5. Cleaned to reseat to try different orientations, and either the orientation was better and the AS5 was not, or any way I orient it doesn't matter, and the AS5 works just as good as the stock stuff


----------



## Anusha

Quote:



Originally Posted by *reaver83*


Thats wheird, usually someone chimes in at least once a day. I would think that MX4 would be great, seeming how I noticed very little difference cleaning it and using AS5. Cleaned to reseat to try different orientations, and either the orientation was better and the AS5 was not, or any way I orient it doesn't matter, and the AS5 works just as good as the stock stuff


if it is any consolation, i chimed in couple of days ago. XD

anyways, still didn't get the chance to apply MX4 and reseat the block. will report back if it does improve. however, it seems to take the heat out. the fans are exhausting hot air with the current arrangement.


----------



## majinsoftware

Had a 620 for awhile now with push fan being my mates H60 fan and pull fan being the stock one.
It worked fantastic on my 1090T and cooled it well at 1.47-1.48V at 4.2Ghz with max temp being 54-56C after 30mins prime.

But it doesnt handle my new 8120 very well. Stock clocks and voltage its getting into 48-50C. So Iv only been able to go up another 400mhz which has it on the limit 55-58C.

Also you can get a bit more performance out of it by connecting the pumps power to a molex. Now the pump speed stays stable at 1400-1438rpm where off the mobo it was 1350-1388rpm


----------



## Lets Rumble

Hello guys,

I'm kinda new to this forum..
I have a little question about the Antec H2O 920.

Does anyone knows how high the part is I highlighted in the picture (Attachment)? (Above the red line)
(The part that is a little higher than the 12cm fan)

Can someone tell me how much inch/cm that area is?

Thanks!


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lets Rumble;15629057*
> Hello guys,
> 
> I'm kinda new to this forum..
> I have a little question about the Antec H2O 920.
> 
> Does anyone knows how high the part is I highlighted in the picture (Attachment)? (Above the red line)
> (The part that is a little higher than the 12cm fan)
> 
> Can someone tell me how much inch/cm that area is?
> 
> Thanks!


I can help you out once I get home tonight. My 920 isn't fitted into my chassis yet so it will be easy for me to check?


----------



## Jared2608

If your chassis has a fan point at the top, for an exhaust fan, could you mount the H20 620 on the top of the chassis, instead of on the back?


----------



## reaver83

In my case, the Top Exhaust point with both fans connected to the 920 would put the radiator almost directly in front of the Pump. Now, since the goal of getting the Kuhler setups was to redirect the heat from that area to somewhere else, I figured this was counter-productive, and decided against it. IDK, if you don't mind the looks of it, and have a grill that will fit one of your fans, I suppose you could mount 1 of the fans on the outside on the top, and just add a grill to it. That would move it a little further away from the pump. Up to you. Trial and error for YOUR SPECIFIC SETUP is key. No 2 Setups are Identical.


----------



## CTV

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Lets Rumble*
> 
> Hello guys,
> 
> I'm kinda new to this forum..
> I have a little question about the Antec H2O 920.
> 
> Does anyone knows how high the part is I highlighted in the picture (Attachment)? (Above the red line)
> (The part that is a little higher than the 12cm fan)
> 
> Can someone tell me how much inch/cm that area is?
> 
> Thanks!


Hi

I manganed to measure it that night as promised however the forum was offline due to maintenance until now. I would say its 14mm as per your sketch


----------



## jimmyc1

Hi All,

Just got and installed my 620 in a push/pull config in my raven RV03. Spent a bit of time sleeving the fan and pump power leads (you can't really see them in this photo) to give it a bit more of a cleaner look. Really pleased with it overall. Hope you like.


----------



## Rage19420

Does anyone know if the Antec 920 software work on three units installed in one system? I'm thinking of having 3, one for CPU and two for my GTX 480 sli (see sig)


----------



## pinkfloyd48

Im loving my 620 Idles at 24c and on OCCT 45c

DSCN1453.JPG 39k .JPG file


----------



## EternalRest

Should I get the 920 over the h80?


----------



## jimmyc1

Quick question: Can any one advise on these temps with the 620? Amd phenom x4 965 @3.4GHZ (stock)

room temp 24c
idle temp 33c
load 48c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)
temps are cpu temp not core temps.

Core temps are:
idle temp 28c
load 42c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)

I have two fans in push pull comnfig as in picture on post no1138 (page 114) of this thread. Do you think these temps are ok??
Thanks for your help


----------



## Danker16

ADD ME TO DA CLUB!


----------



## Danker16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyc1*
> 
> Quick question: Can any one advise on these temps with the 620? Amd phenom x4 965 @3.4GHZ (stock)
> room temp 24c
> idle temp 33c
> load 48c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)
> temps are cpu temp not core temps.
> Core temps are:
> idle temp 28c
> load 42c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)
> I have two fans in push pull comnfig as in picture on post no1138 (page 114) of this thread. Do you think these temps are ok??
> Thanks for your help


they might be

on my Q6600 I was first idling at about 36C.. i had issues with my Motherboard had to tear everything down and re applied thermal paste ( AC MX-2) and now it idles at 31C.

just my experience so far


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420*
> 
> Does anyone know if the Antec 920 software work on three units installed in one system? I'm thinking of having 3, one for CPU and two for my GTX 480 sli (see sig)


This I would love to know as well. I don't see why you couldn't cut and splice the wires for the USB header for all 3 to work with the software, and only take 1 header. Problem with that is would Chill Control flip out doing this? or even on different headers, would Chill Control flip out? Then there is the thought would you have to run 3 instances of Chill Control. If I had the money to play around with, (and for that matter, my motherboard back from Asus) I'd def try it out. Worse case scenario, you have to sell 2 920's used.


----------



## jimmyc1

Its more the load temps. I'm wondering if they are ok, as some people are reporting load temps only a few degrees over idle temps, where for me, the difference between idle and full load is 15c.

room temp 24c
idle temp 33c
load 48c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)
temps are cpu temp not core temps.

Core temps are:
idle temp 28c
load 42c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)


----------



## Raephen

You have nothing to worry about. Those load temps are fine. The Phenom II x4 965 starts disabling cores only when it reaches 60 C nd shuts down at 65 to prevent boiling itself. Your temp of 48 C under an extreme torture test is just fine.
Core temps should be ignored because, for AMD chips atleast, they are nothing more than guesswork since in the cpu there's nothing to monitor the temperatures.
I run my 965 at slight undervolt - 1.325 v - and mild overclock at 3.6 GHz., and while it's cooled by H100 now - the H2O 620 moved to my brnd spnking new A8-3850 APU in my mediacenter - with the 620 I had on it before it never really passed 55 (that ws with ambiant temps of near 30 C lst summer) so well enough in the safe zone.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jimmyc1*
> 
> Its more the load temps. I'm wondering if they are ok, as some people are reporting load temps only a few degrees over idle temps, where for me, the difference between idle and full load is 15c.
> room temp 24c
> idle temp 33c
> load 48c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)
> temps are cpu temp not core temps.
> Core temps are:
> idle temp 28c
> load 42c (Prime 95, max temp stress test)


----------



## jimmyc1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> You have nothing to worry about. Those load temps are fine. The Phenom II x4 965 starts disabling cores only when it reaches 60 C nd shuts down at 65 to prevent boiling itself. Your temp of 48 C under an extreme torture test is just fine.
> Core temps should be ignored because, for AMD chips atleast, they are nothing more than guesswork since in the cpu there's nothing to monitor the temperatures.
> I run my 965 at slight undervolt - 1.325 v - and mild overclock at 3.6 GHz., and while it's cooled by H100 now - the H2O 620 moved to my brnd spnking new A8-3850 APU in my mediacenter - with the 620 I had on it before it never really passed 55 (that ws with ambiant temps of near 30 C lst summer) so well enough in the safe zone.


Thanks for the feedback, that's really useful. I wasn't worried about the chip as i know its way under the 62c thermal limit, i just wanted to check I was getting good temps for the H20 620 that I installed.


----------



## raemen

Hey guys I seem to have a problem with my Antec Kühler H2O 920, I hear a weird noise that it makes. Kind of like those regeneration noise from game, or a spingy noise. I have noticed that evertime it makes the noise the noise of the fan changes. When I set the fan setting to silent then it stops making the noise. Shoud I be worried about it, is it defective? Or could it be because of dirt build up. I have it set so it takes air out the back of the case.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Danker16*
> 
> ADD ME TO DA CLUB!


gotta add yourself. there is a link in the op.

Sorry I haven't been able to update it and fix the embed to make signing up easier. No time lately.

Also, interestingly, intel is using asetek cooling solutions to sell some new CPU's with. Pretty interesting to see intel doing this and not cheaping out on a cooler.


----------



## Jamar16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EternalRest*
> 
> Should I get the 920 over the h80?


Any input on this question? I would like to know also


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by EternalRest
> Should I get the 920 over the h80?


The 920 has thicker longer hoses then the H80. I believe the pump is better as well. I would take the 920 one the H80. It even comes close to the H100 by under 1c or 2c.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raemen*
> 
> Hey guys I seem to have a problem with my Antec Kühler H2O 920, I hear a weird noise that it makes. Kind of like those regeneration noise from game, or a spingy noise. I have noticed that evertime it makes the noise the noise of the fan changes. When I set the fan setting to silent then it stops making the noise. Shoud I be worried about it, is it defective? Or could it be because of dirt build up. I have it set so it takes air out the back of the case.


1) is your radiator above or below the processor,
2) are your hoses on the pump lower or higher than the radiator.

Judging by how I can hear sloshing when I shake My radiator, tells me it's not completely filled with liquid. You need to orient the radiator so that the hoses coming out are not the highest point, or air will get out to the pump. Also, if you have your radiator mounted lower than the processor, you may want to try starting the computer up with the radiator oriented higher somehow, (lay it down, take the radiator out and hold it above the processor but careful may get hot, etc,...) these have been posted in the past, but are buried in 116 pages of posts. These are just things to try to see if maybe the pump sucked air, and these steps will force the air out. If these steps don't work, you may just have a pump thats a little loud.

Also, if your sure it's the fan not the pump, ignore that and check to make sure a fan isn't hitting against the back of the case. You said you have it pulling air into the chasis? Any fan will go lope-sided if shaken. It may tap against your case when the speeds are drastically changed. If you think its the fan, take the one closest to the chasis loose, and see if it has marked your case/ fan blades.


----------



## KeitaRR

Hi everyone, I just picked up a 920, installed on my antec p183 and I can't close the side panel. Does anyone else have the same problem? How do you solve it? Thanks


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KeitaRR*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just picked up a 920, installed on my antec p183 and I can't close the side panel. Does anyone else have the same problem? How do you solve it? Thanks


Can you post some pics of your setup?


----------



## raemen

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> 1) is your radiator above or below the processor,
> 2) are your hoses on the pump lower or higher than the radiator.
> Judging by how I can hear sloshing when I shake My radiator, tells me it's not completely filled with liquid. You need to orient the radiator so that the hoses coming out are not the highest point, or air will get out to the pump. Also, if you have your radiator mounted lower than the processor, you may want to try starting the computer up with the radiator oriented higher somehow, (lay it down, take the radiator out and hold it above the processor but careful may get hot, etc,...) these have been posted in the past, but are buried in 116 pages of posts. These are just things to try to see if maybe the pump sucked air, and these steps will force the air out. If these steps don't work, you may just have a pump thats a little loud.
> Also, if your sure it's the fan not the pump, ignore that and check to make sure a fan isn't hitting against the back of the case. You said you have it pulling air into the chasis? Any fan will go lope-sided if shaken. It may tap against your case when the speeds are drastically changed. If you think its the fan, take the one closest to the chasis loose, and see if it has marked your case/ fan blades.


My radiator is about the same level as the CPU (at the top), but the hoses twirl down to the CPU, so they are a bit highr than the radiator. My fans blow air out the case, not pull. I changed from the lowest speed to the highest speed for the fan and the sound somtimes happens when the speed changes but doesn't stay long. So I guess it's not hitting the case and there were no marks on the fan closest to the back of the case. The picture below might cause the pump to suck in air?
This is how it looks, is it good?


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raemen*
> 
> My radiator is about the same level as the CPU (at the top), but the hoses twirl down to the CPU, so they are a bit highr than the radiator. My fans blow air out the case, not pull. I changed from the lowest speed to the highest speed for the fan and the sound somtimes happens when the speed changes but doesn't stay long. So I guess it's not hitting the case and there were no marks on the fan closest to the back of the case. The picture below might cause the pump to suck in air?
> This is how it looks, is it good?


You need to flip the radiator so the rad hoses are on the bottom like so: http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/950_50#post_15321469


----------



## KeitaRR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Can you post some pics of your setup?


thanks for the response. I just found out I can actually close the side panel fine, but couldn't slide it in because of the screws of the fan at the back of the case. How do you guys resolve this? drill small holes?


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420*
> 
> You need to flip the radiator so the rad hoses are on the bottom like so: http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/950_50#post_15321469


^ this We have learned, and if you shake the radiator you will too, there is a pocket of air in there to allow for expansion of liquid. You can tell cause when you shake it, you can hear liquid sloshing. If it was completely filled, the Liquid could not slosh.
That being said, the air pocket will always ride to the top of the radiator, where (in your current config), is the tubes going to and from the pump. lay the computer on it's side, take the radiator out and do the dry pump thing I mentioned b4. This should eliminate noise. you should only have to hold it with the fan on for a few mins to clear the air out of the pump. just to be safe though, take one fan off, and hold the radiator up (thats with the tubes closest to the computer, no tubes end should be UP) With a rag so if it does get warm, your not burnt. it shouldn't, but I add that as a precaution. make sure to leave 1 fan on it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KeitaRR*
> 
> thanks for the response. I just found out I can actually close the side panel fine, but couldn't slide it in because of the screws of the fan at the back of the case. How do you guys resolve this? drill small holes?


OMG! thank you for posting this, it reminded me that I need to take a grinder to about 1/4" of my side panel to allow for my pull fan to be mounted outside the case. Sux to have to do this after you got everything back together


----------



## 2slick4u

what if I have it install on a FT02 which the motherboard is 90 degree? how would i place the radiator?


----------



## PB4UGO

to the few posters above, i have a couple of points to address.
-the 620/920s are designed to be mounted in any orientation. straight from the horses mouth at Antec.
-shaking the radiator will get the air bubbles out and quiet the pump regardless of orientation, and is always a good first move when running it for the first time. not sure why they don't put it in their instructions.
-for those who have modded their Antecs by adding a reservior like the Swiftech Micro, orientation only matters during filling/maintenence of water. see photo below. after many tests, i have my reservoir directly in the middle of the flow, with the rad in/out at the highest point and pump in/out at the lowest point. and even though i looped the hoses for decorative purposes, the pump is handling it very well. when filling/maintaining, all i do it pull out the res and lift it to the highest point.. takes less than 10 minutes for a full water change this way.

since the photo was taken, i've gone from 1/4" ID tube to 3/8" ID tube...again, more for looks.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2slick4u*
> 
> what if I have it install on a FT02 which the motherboard is 90 degree? how would i place the radiator?


Hmm, that is a very weird design case. Is there any way to mount it to a Top fan position? Seems to me like mounting it to the back would put it fairly close to the processor. Which way does the air flow naturally? from back to front? I would definitely make sure any air going through the radiator blows out of the case, and positioned as far from the Processor as possible. I'm really stumped on that case, I've seen 180 degree cases, this is my 1st one I've seen in a 90 degree arrangement, really weird.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*
> 
> to the few posters above, i have a couple of points to address.
> -the 620/920s are designed to be mounted in any orientation. straight from the horses mouth at Antec.
> -shaking the radiator will get the air bubbles out and quiet the pump regardless of orientation, and is always a good first move when running it for the first time. not sure why they don't put it in their instructions.
> -for those who have modded their Antecs by adding a reservior like the Swiftech Micro, orientation only matters during filling/maintenence of water. see photo below. after many tests, i have my reservoir directly in the middle of the flow, with the rad in/out at the highest point and pump in/out at the lowest point. and even though i looped the hoses for decorative purposes, the pump is handling it very well. when filling/maintaining, all i do it pull out the res and lift it to the highest point.. takes less than 10 minutes for a full water change this way.
> since the photo was taken, i've gone from 1/4" ID tube to 3/8" ID tube...again, more for looks.


sorry for double-post, but this came while I was typing.

yes, they do say that, however I would say that for precautions, if the slightest bit of air is in the radiator, (Which in my case, there is) it's better to be safe than sorry, because, Air will always rise to the top of liquid, regardless. I am planning on adding a reservoir to my setup when I get the chance, but funding is short. Probably will buy a H20 620 as well for my GTX460. Still would have less money in it than building a custom water-cooled setup, as pricing it wielded $750USD for a custom setup. Probably make my own reservoir, why not? My whole project has been cheap power, not how much money I can sink into it. the most expensive thing in my build I was gonna get even w/o building the computer, which is my TV.


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> sorry for double-post, but this came while I was typing.
> yes, they do say that, however I would say that for precautions, if the slightest bit of air is in the radiator, (Which in my case, there is) it's better to be safe than sorry, because, Air will always rise to the top of liquid, regardless. I am planning on adding a reservoir to my setup when I get the chance, but funding is short. Probably will buy a H20 620 as well for my GTX460. Still would have less money in it than building a custom water-cooled setup, as pricing it wielded $750USD for a custom setup. Probably make my own reservoir, why not? My whole project has been cheap power, not how much money I can sink into it. the most expensive thing in my build I was gonna get even w/o building the computer, which is my TV.


that's the beauty of adding a res to the 620/920...the radiator is always 100% full once you shake it a bit, and the reservoir will then handle the expansion/loss/evap. so much easier to manage.


----------



## reaver83

my thoughts exactly. being a mediocre mechanic has taught me the wonders of a reservoir. So how did you fit the fittings to the H20 radiator? Did you have to cut them and tap and die them in? Same question with the Pump. If so, did you have to take the pump apart, and how did you do so? How warm do the hoses get, Cause I was thinking, I could probably cheap out and buy hoses from the local hardware store for ALOT less than I would pay online. What type of liquid comes in these kits?I'm currently sitting with nothing but time on my hands for my build, since the motherboard had to be RMA'ed







Also, I need to check again, but the last time I had my Kuhler out of the box, I thought I saw a minor leak around the pivots on the pump. If it is leaking, it's from me moving the tubes around so much trying to figure out the problem with my computer.


----------



## 2slick4u

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Hmm, that is a very weird design case. Is there any way to mount it to a Top fan position? Seems to me like mounting it to the back would put it fairly close to the processor. Which way does the air flow naturally? from back to front? I would definitely make sure any air going through the radiator blows out of the case, and positioned as far from the Processor as possible. I'm really stumped on that case, I've seen 180 degree cases, this is my 1st one I've seen in a 90 degree arrangement, really weird.


the ft02 has 3 180mm bottom mounted intake fans and one exhaust fan on top for positive pressure







Im going to have to mounted on top since that the only place i can mount it








I got clarified that it will work tho which im happy


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> my thoughts exactly. being a mediocre mechanic has taught me the wonders of a reservoir. So how did you fit the fittings to the H20 radiator? Did you have to cut them and tap and die them in? Same question with the Pump. If so, did you have to take the pump apart, and how did you do so? How warm do the hoses get, Cause I was thinking, I could probably cheap out and buy hoses from the local hardware store for ALOT less than I would pay online. What type of liquid comes in these kits?I'm currently sitting with nothing but time on my hands for my build, since the motherboard had to be RMA'ed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, I need to check again, but the last time I had my Kuhler out of the box, I thought I saw a minor leak around the pivots on the pump. If it is leaking, it's from me moving the tubes around so much trying to figure out the problem with my computer.


gimme a min...response to every statement you just made is coming....don't be nervous, i just tend to take a while....


----------



## PB4UGO

i just have to say that i resorted to some unusual methods when modding my 620. because after all, it only cost me $60 when i bought it...i was willing to kill it just to mod it the way i wanted.

first...i took nothing apart. these are different than the Corsair units. switching out tubing on the 620 requires no disassembly of the pump or anything else for that matter.

i kept the original 1/4" barbs on the pump and radiator.

the tubing i bought was from Home Depot....Watts brand clear tubing in the plumbing section.

i originally bought 1/4" ID tubing...fit nice and snug, no problems there...

then i decided on bigger tubing, 3/8" ID (OD of the 1/4" tube is 3/8")...but instead of buying/fitting new barbs, i just snipped off the 1/4" tubing at the end of the stock barbs and fit the new tubing on...again, snug fit. tube over tube over barb, and no leaks. i didn't even use zipties, not that i'm bragging, i just think they're ugly.

the hoses are cool to the touch on heavy load....with the added water, that likely won't change. in fact, adding more water to a closed system won't improve you temps. my temps were already fine. that's not why i modded it. i just thought it would look cool.

as far as the liquid that comes in the kits, i think it's just a distilled/glycerine mix with anti-corrosive properties. right now, i'm just using distiller water.

i hope i covered everything.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*
> 
> as far as the liquid that comes in the kits, i think it's just a distilled/glycerine mix with anti-corrosive properties. right now, i'm just using distiller water.


Sounds to me like you could use the Orange 10K mi Anti-freeze for a car, and can get that for like $7USD/gal ANYWHERE. pretty much the same thing, just not diluted. So the inlet/outlets on the pump have barbs on them under those hoses with just clips holding them in place? This is really interesting, and I may have to dabble in this myself. Wonder if they sell that kit liquid in blue, I'd have to check cause I'm trying to stick with a color scheme.

Was thinking this over cause I have had current issues with the North bridge dieing, and was thinking of maybe getting the Koolance North Bridge water block to go inline with it. Does your Reservoir have a pump built into it? I have a idea if it does, involving a spare Windshield wiper Reservoir pump I have floating around my house Wat? it's 12volt This has definatly got the gears turning in my head, and I'm thinking with a current small job I just did, I could afford to do this.

*Edit* Had 1 more question. What did you add to your Distilled water to turn it blue? That would make my setup even more sexy


----------



## theturbofd

Add me

http://www.overclock.net/t/1167812/my-gtx-480-antec-mod-d


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> What did you add to your Distilled water to turn it blue? That would make my setup even more sexy


dye.

bit of a disclaimer though: i have my system so that changing water takes me about 10 minutes. the dye i use is the stuff you buy at the grocery store. i know, "what am i thinking?!?" i know the ramifications of using food dye...ultimately, not smart, but for one, the stuff fades in just a couple of days. also, i change my mind a lot, so i change the water a lot. right now i'm just running plain distilled, no dye. next week, something else. again, it takes only 10 minutes and i have a new color. to me, it's just for fun anyway.


----------



## reaver83

So your saying if I were to do this, it may be a good idea just to get a bottle of the colored coolant if I want a color liquid, and just fill the rest of the way with distilled water. Good to know







I would like to do this, but right now I am still waiting on word from Asus about my motherboard currently in RMA


----------



## MataHFR

Hello!

Here is the installation of my H2o 920. not knowing dismantling the pipes I have painted ...
But I want the absolute change !

*1- Do I broke the plastic end caps in order to get the pipe?*


*2- Do I have to cut the pipes ?*

Thank you very much for the responses

A picture of my system to finish (unfinished project) :



Bye !


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MataHFR*
> 
> Hello!
> Here is the installation of my H2o 920. not knowing dismantling the pipes I have painted ...
> But I want the absolute change !
> *1- Do I broke the plastic end caps in order to get the pipe?*
> 
> *2- Do I have to cut the pipes ?*
> Thank you very much for the responses
> A picture of my system to finish (unfinished project) :
> 
> Bye !


THAT is a nice looking system!!...looks like something i would do









those "collars" you referenced in your first photo are worthless...just slice them (carefully) with a razor blade and they come right off. they serve no functional purpose.

if you're thinking of painting your 920 white, do it. i did. (i have the 620, but whatever)


----------



## MataHFR

PB4UGO, thank you for those answers !
Your system is wonderful









For pipes, what size would it?
Is what it would good ? http://www.caseking.de/shop/catalog...leer-Schlauch-112-8mm-UV-white-1m::12143.html

yours is the 1/4 (8/13 mm) ?

Thank you : Pouce:


----------



## Lifeshield

Thinking oif getting a water cooler for my CPU. Which Antec cooler is the best? 620 or 920? Also if you are honest, are any Corsair models are better than the 620 and 920 repsectively (they're all made by the same company so I don't support either brand, I just want to know which are reccommended overall)?

Thanks.


----------



## reaver83

according to reviews from Tom's Hardware, the Antec 920 is just as good as the new Corsair H100. I wouldn't know, I've only tried the 920.


----------



## M5ilencer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *KeitaRR*
> 
> Hi everyone, I just picked up a 920, installed on my antec p183 and I can't close the side panel. Does anyone else have the same problem? How do you solve it? Thanks


I know exactly how you feel, I did consider doing custom side panel window but that would ruin the stealth look of the case.


----------



## Rage19420

FYI Amazon is selling the 920 for $74.99!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1172772/antec-k-hler-h20-920-liquid-cpu-cooling-system-amazon-for-74-99/0_50


----------



## reaver83

Got my Motherboard back, (actually, they sent me a refurbished rev.B model of my board) but anyways, I am now faced with a choice.
1) i can overclock my 4GB Kingston Value RAM Stick (1x) or,
2) I can install my 2x2GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer RAM in 1 channel, and the single 4GB stick in another channel and run Mixed RAM, and not hold a steady OC.

The Kingston 4Gb stick is DDR3-1333, and the Crucial RAM is DDR3-1600. if I'm not mistaken though, both have the same timings (9-9-9-24-33-1T) but the Crucial RAM is XMP enabled. Thinking I can get away with Downclocking the Crucial RAM, so that I can run 8GB of RAM. Any thoughts?


----------



## PB4UGO

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Got my Motherboard back, (actually, they sent me a refurbished rev.B model of my board) but anyways, I am now faced with a choice.
> 1) i can overclock my 4GB Kingston Value RAM Stick (1x) or,
> 2) I can install my 2x2GB Crucial Ballistix Tracer RAM in 1 channel, and the single 4GB stick in another channel and run Mixed RAM, and not hold a steady OC.
> The Kingston 4Gb stick is DDR3-1333, and the Crucial RAM is DDR3-1600. if I'm not mistaken though, both have the same timings (9-9-9-24-33-1T) but the Crucial RAM is XMP enabled. Thinking I can get away with Downclocking the Crucial RAM, so that I can run 8GB of RAM. Any thoughts?


hmm...wrong thread?


----------



## reaver83

actually, posted here instead of PMing the person I needed to. My error.

But, if anyone wants to chime in their thoughts, PM me, I'm open to suggestion. At this point some games I'm getting out of RAM errors, which I have not got since my old 386DX Packard Bell days. Thinking i my just mix-match RAM for now.


----------



## BListein

I see some have successfully modded this cooler to Nvidia graphic card like the GTX580, anyone successfully did it on ATI card?? 5870 matrix to be precise


----------



## s-f-r-j

I am thinking to buy Antec KUHLER H2O 920.

CPU i have is :










Right now i am using Zalman AIR cooling with temps above.

What temps can i expect with this unit and this cpu\clock?

Also, will this fit fine in my Antec 1200 case?

Regards


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BListein*
> 
> I see some have successfully modded this cooler to Nvidia graphic card like the GTX580, anyone successfully did it on ATI card?? 5870 matrix to be precise


Depending on you case you have you can make it fit. Like I did! http://www.overclock.net/t/1140299/gtx-480-sli-antec-620s-mod/0_50

If i recall the 5870 doesnt have a IHS so you can strap a 620/920 directly to the cpu core. That what I did on my GTX 480 SLI's and the temps are phenomenal! Work log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1173936/gtx-480-sli-ihs-mod/0_50


----------



## BListein

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420*
> 
> Depending on you case you have you can make it fit. Like I did! http://www.overclock.net/t/1140299/gtx-480-sli-antec-620s-mod/0_50
> If i recall the 5870 doesnt have a IHS so you can strap a 620/920 directly to the cpu core. That what I did on my GTX 480 SLI's and the temps are phenomenal! Work log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1173936/gtx-480-sli-ihs-mod/0_50


AFAIK the mounting hole size for ATI is not same with Nvidia. From picture, I can see Nvidia cards have bigger chipset footprint than ATI, correct me if im wrong.
What I'm worried about is the diameter of the antec block would block the mounting hole if its too big for ATI cards


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BListein*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Rage19420*
> 
> Depending on you case you have you can make it fit. Like I did! http://www.overclock.net/t/1140299/gtx-480-sli-antec-620s-mod/0_50
> If i recall the 5870 doesnt have a IHS so you can strap a 620/920 directly to the cpu core. That what I did on my GTX 480 SLI's and the temps are phenomenal! Work log: http://www.overclock.net/t/1173936/gtx-480-sli-ihs-mod/0_50
> 
> 
> 
> AFAIK the mounting hole size for ATI is not same with Nvidia. From picture, I can see Nvidia cards have bigger chipset footprint than ATI, correct me if im wrong.
> What I'm worried about is the diameter of the antec block would block the mounting hole if its too big for ATI cards
Click to expand...

I'm honestly not sure. I know with my GPU's I had to take off the plastic case plus the cover to expose the raw gpu core. There was a very small elevation of the core for the Antec 620 to fit on. I'm not sure if that is the case with the 5870's.


----------



## s-f-r-j

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s-f-r-j*
> 
> I am thinking to buy Antec KUHLER H2O 920.
> CPU i have is :
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Right now i am using Zalman AIR cooling with temps above.
> What temps can i expect with this unit and this cpu\clock?
> Also, will this fit fine in my Antec 1200 case?
> Regards


Any1 please?

Thank you


----------



## jimmyc1

Just a heads up for anyone having problem with the clicking noise coming from the 620/920 Unit. Like a lot of others I had mine installed for a few days and it was operating totally silent but all of a sudden it started making a clicking sound like a mechanical hard disk. I read up about shaking the rad to get any air bubbles out and tried this along with changing the orientation of both the rad and pump. None of this work and I was about to give up when I decided to disconnect the Antec fan that came with the unit. I run mine in a push pull with a Enermax fan pushing and the Antec fan pulling. Low and behold when I disconnected the Antec fan the noise stopped. As I have plenty of 120 mm fans lying around I changed it up for another fan and hey presto no more clicking. So moral of the story check its the fan not the actual unit. Cheers

P.S. Not sure what others think of the Antec fans but since installing a new 120 mm fan (Akasa something or other) its not only a fair bit quieter but its also dropped the temps by another 2c


----------



## reaver83

I ran outta AS5 the other day "repairing" my brothers GTX260 that the TIM had baked on. Went to the stores to find some more, nothing! The only TIM I could find was this Antec Formula 6 Nano Diamond stuff. I actually had doubts about it, but found out, in my setup, it actually runs cooler







$9USD a tube, and it's a total pain to spread. Actually bent the little plastic spreader it came with trying to spread it, but my temps are now running around 22-25C on full load! Antec sold me on this one, and I'll be getting this from now on, if not only for the availibility, the price too! The last tube of AS5 I bought cost me $9USD, and only comes with 3.5g. With the Antec tube I got .5g more, for the same price, and it works better! Thought you guys using AS5 would like to know about it.


----------



## raemen

Hi,
I have a LED fan waiting to be installed on this cooler, but I don't know if it will work. The fan has 3 pins and I think the cooler fans have 4 pins. So if I do connect it will I still have control of the fans and the LED?
Thanks.


----------



## reaver83

probably not. When I hooked my 3-pin fan to a PWM header on my motherboard, it stayed at 100% but the LED's were lit. So, yeah it will work, but at 100%. If you can find a controller that is PWN to 3-pin, maybe. But this controller would have to have a circuit board with MOSEFET's and resistors, and will probably be expensive. If your fan's are not loud at 100%, then I don't see where this would be a problem though, and it would keep it cool til it passes the threshold of what the fans can cool. That part is what I would worry about, passing the threshold


----------



## Corduroy

After reading this thread I made up my mind and bought a 920. So far, so good. No overclocking yet, though


----------



## tekster

I have been trying to read some of the posts throughout this thread regarding the 920 and the Antec 900 case and the side fan. Is this really an issue? I have the original Antec 900 case with a fan mounted on the side panel. I am looking to get the 920. Thanks


----------



## modnub

Is there any correct way of position this cooler? I have mine currently positioned like Corduroy, but I noticed others have it positioned differently. Is this more of a personal preference thing or are there actual performance differences in the way you position it?


----------



## reaver83

The cooler itself, I haven't noticed any difference, Except with my current setup with the hoses straight -> off the pump, I can hang 1 of my hoses to the Top intake fan, and blow some cool air onto it, and separate the other hose completely away from it. That may cool things a bit more. But other than that, the Radiator is a different matter. if your pump is positioned higher than the radiator, I would suggest that the inlet/outlet hoses on the radiator be facing the bottom of the case, so that if any air gets caught in the system, it is in the radiator not the pump.







Other than that, all I can tell ya is experiment and see what works best for you, and GL


----------



## reaver83

Not to Doublepost, but this thread is starting to slow down a bit.

Was at my local Staples store, and they had the Kuhler H2O 620 in there for $89USD!!!! When the guy came over to ask if he could help me I told him "yeah, got a question. Why is this $89 when I paid $79 for the bigger brother of this online?." his only answer, The local military base. All stores in my area raise the prices of things cause they know that the Marines will pay it.

The only Problem is, these same stores have days, and sometimes even months that they have military discount days! Okay, so where does that leave the locals that aren't military? It's not that I have a problem with the military around here. I appreciate all that they do for our country and other countries. My complaint is in the Stores around here. The price of EVERYTHING is higher because they know the Military folk don't have time to go pricing around for things.







If any US Marines have to come to North Carolina, note the price of things in towns from where you come from, and then here in NC. Then Buy everything either on base, or online. Just a heads up.


----------



## Corduroy

If it makes you feel better:

I've paid USD 120 for the 920 and I felt like I was ripping the store off. That's because I don't live in the US.

The H100 around here is USD 200, H80 USD 160, H70 USD 140, H60 USD 100.


----------



## viper522

Moved the Kuhler from my Core 2 Quad onto a new i7-2600k combo. I must say it works even better on the cooler-running i7. I'm able to run it at 4.4GHz at the same temps as the C2Q 9300 @ 3.3GHz with half as many threads.


----------



## grassh0ppa

https://www.facebook.com/Asetek

aseteks facebook page


----------



## Anusha

did a little bit of fiddling with the fans i have on the kuhler 620. these are the results i got running LinX with AVX with 8GB RAM load. i only measured max temps after 3 minutes. it might be a bit higher than that if i run for longer. but for the sake of comparison of fan performance, i guess this should do. (PC specs in the sig)



from those results, i am gonna opt for the KAMA Flow 2 fan, because of the awesome noise to performance ratio. i bet the GT-1850 would be in between the blademaster and KAMA Flow 2 fan in terms of performance BUT possibly quieter than the KAMA Flow 2. shame i cannot find them anywhere.









in summer, this is gonna scorch the CPU though.


----------



## sixfootsix

Hi all, this is my first post on overclock! I'm just starting out and can't wait to take in all this place has to offer.

I just finished my first build! I was hoping I could get some feedback about my temps



ASUS software reports 18C but real temp presents with high 20's. My 920 also reports liquid in the high 20's. Do these look right or is something off calibration wise?

Thanks in advace for you input!


----------



## Rage19420

Looks good bud and welcome!









Now go fill out your system specs under your profile so we all can see what you are rockin!


----------



## sixfootsix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420*
> 
> Looks good bud and welcome!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now go fill out your system specs under your profile so we all can see what you are rockin!


Roger that! In the sig


----------



## Rage19420

Nice rig, good temps too!


----------



## sixfootsix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420*
> 
> Nice rig, good temps too!


Not sure which to believe though. Do I believe what the mobo is reporting or realtemp and the antec program (10C difference)


----------



## Rage19420

Mobo like in Afterburner or ASUS software?


----------



## Rage19420

******UPDATED******

Successful 900/1800/2200 Overclock with a couple a cheap $59 Antec 620's strapped to my GTX 480 SLI with temps topped out at 46c and the VRM Temps via fans sensor at 47c


----------



## sixfootsix

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sixfootsix*
> 
> Not sure which to believe though. Do I believe what the mobo is reporting or realtemp and the antec program (10C difference)


Yeah, it's a consistent 10C difference.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rage19420*
> 
> ******UPDATED******
> Successful 900/1800/2200 Overclock with a couple a cheap $59 Antec 620's strapped to my GTX 480 SLI with temps topped out at 46c and the VRM Temps via fans sensor at 47c


Gratz dude! One of these days i'll grow a pair and try to OC my Processor again. nothing better to De-ball someone than to have a Motherboard die on ya


----------



## Delboy

I've bought Antec Kuhler 620. I have the pump connected to PWR header on the mobo even though cpu fan error pops up which is kind of annoying. And push/pull 2 excaliburs connected via Scythe Kaze server advanced fan controler. I've set the speed to 810rpm and they are very quite. On 2000rpm its like plane is in the room.
My idle temps 34-37. Load didnt have time to test yet. Left the stock paste and it gives ok results. Is this ok? First time WCool.


----------



## viper522

What CPU? That would be extremely cool for a Core 2 Quad 9300 but right on par for an i5/i7 which has throttled down, for example.


----------



## Delboy

I thought i've built my rig in the profile section so it can be seen under my system hmmm








I've do that later. Machine is :
Asus Z68-v pro @ Antec Kuhler 620
2500k on 4.5Ghz (1.32v)
Corsair Vengeance 2x4Gb
MSI 560Ti Twin Frozr II
Seasonic PSU 850w
NZXT Phantom case


----------



## viper522

That's good numbers at 4.5 then. The stock paste is fine, at least until it isnt.







A series of load tests (try [email protected]?) will really tell you about it.


----------



## Delboy

As you can see no problem in that department, linx 75 rounds i think it's enough. I've had Thermalright and AS5 but decided to give Antec a chance and didn't disappointed.
This cooler is very good for the price i've put into it. Quite and performer


----------



## reaver83

he didn't post anything about the update, but if your one that likes to know how things tick, (like I am) there is a Link named "xsreviews" on the 1st post now under the "Reviews" and "Antec Kühler H2O 920" sections. In this review, they completely disassemble one of these and took great pictures. This will come in handy if you ever need to:


modify it to add a reservoir (I probably will)
Change the liquid due to Algae or Calcium Build-up, (due to modding)

Apparantly these things have a filter in the pump. If you mod it with different liquid, especially liquid with some sort of flakes, then I could see where that filter may pose a problem.

Also, this explains what that Screw was that everyone keeps breaking off beside the inlet/outlet tubes. Happy modding!


----------



## MataHFR

I finish modding my 920 H2o


----------



## CloudX

That looks really good man!


----------



## viper522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MataHFR*
> 
> I finish modding my 920 H2o


How did you replace the hoses without losing liquid or introducing air? Usually people add a res when they do that. Love it, nice mobo too.


----------



## TurboPanda

Question for you guys. I have a thermaltake Chaser with 4 200mm fans two of them up top. Should i put the one closest to the 920 as exhaust or put it as intake to supply the fans with ample cold air to push out>?


----------



## Rage19420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboPanda*
> 
> Question for you guys. I have a thermaltake Chaser with 4 200mm fans two of them up top. Should i put the one closest to the 920 as exhaust or put it as intake to supply the fans with ample cold air to push out>?


My suggestion would be to try both ways to see which gives you the better temps.


----------



## reaver83

I've probably reconfigured everything so many times in my case, the finish is popping off. This is in a case that is less than a year old! flipping the side panel fan around, I have scratched the window to death







It takes time and patience to get something "just right"


----------



## m1k3

Okay guys i need your help with my new project called Ghetto Ice, so i need you guys to answer these easy questions because you have already handled kuhler h20 620 and somebody of you are familar with this kind of unit modding. My guestions is:

Numbers are on my scheme so you could understand what i mean.



1. How do i remove original tubing and howto put new tubes on it(like in h70)? because on pics i see big massive shiat on this place where pump and tubes connects, also what is the best inner diameter of tubes with this pump??? Possibly different tubes on radiator and pump for best flow/heat-transfer?

2. I bought some reservoir that is used for cars for brakes liquid for 30rub its 1 dollar in your country and it also contains small hole, so hot air could escape from reservoir. But my guestion is: Is it usefullin pc watercooling? And what is the best liquid to use in watercooling? I mean distilled water with antifreeze and anticorrosive that is used in cars good for this job? Also is it needed to have reservoir placed higher than rad and pump etc.?

3. So im asking you, what is the best small shi77y pump that is very cheap but still could help to pump the liquid? Looked at eheim 1000 but its still too big









4. And finally what is THE BEST CASE for under 100e that is moddable to handle these radiators like in my scheme? I can mod the case but i dont have ub3rtools for ultimatemods.

I think these are not hard questions for you guys


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *m1k3*
> 
> 1. How do i remove original tubing and howto put new tubes on it(like in h70)? because on pics i see big massive shiat on this place where pump and tubes connects, also what is the best inner diameter of tubes with this pump??? Possibly different tubes on radiator and pump for best flow/heat-transfer?
> 2. I bought some reservoir that is used for cars for brakes liquid for 30rub its 1 dollar in your country and it also contains small hole, so hot air could escape from reservoir. But my guestion is: Is it usefullin pc watercooling? And what is the best liquid to use in watercooling? I mean distilled water with antifreeze and anticorrosive that is used in cars good for this job? Also is it needed to have reservoir placed higher than rad and pump etc.?


1) it was dicussed earlier in this thread, I believe the OD of the pump inlet/outlet's are 3/8 in.(Don't Quote me, go back and read) and are barbed PVC connectors under that plastic clip, I believe the clip could be cut away to expose the tube under it.

2) Generally, Antifreeze is mostly that, it will only get down to a certain temp, but also *WILL* boil. It does have anticorrosives in it, but I believe they are Electro-conductive, which is why very few people use it in computers. Had a many Thermostat Housing in my car Corrode no due to oxidation, but Electralisis. That is yet another reason (out of many) why vehicles' engines need to have ground wires.

As far as a pump, I was actually going to try and find a Boat Jabsco Pump and rewire it to molex and see how many AMP's it draws, Most Marine outfitters have small ones that will bail out a 12ft skiff in 10mins for like $20. Would be a fun project to cut out a large portion of a watercooled build


----------



## reaver83

was doing some math and research and here is the results I came up with

Swiftech MCP655-B 1/2in. Water Pump 317 Gallons per hour ($79.99USD+shipping)



Rule 500GPH Bilge Pump (3/4in outlet pipe, submerge or mod plate for intake, $21.88USD)



once I find a Square, sealed object to use as a reservoir, it's on!


----------



## viper522

A Rule 500gph is a loud mother. Boaters don't mind because their motor drowns it out. But you'll mind.


----------



## reaver83

No louder than the Kuhler 920 fans maxed... I think the biggest reason they are so loud is the vibration. I figured I would by a Model car display case, drill a inlet and outlet hole in it, and shove the outlet tube out the hole in the case, then simply seal the hole with 100% silcone or something of the sort.

Was looking at the specs of the Rule 500GPH M25D, and with 12V it only uses 1.9 amps, not bad!


----------



## m1k3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> 1) it was dicussed earlier in this thread, I believe the OD of the pump inlet/outlet's are 3/8 in.(Don't Quote me, go back and read) and are barbed PVC connectors under that plastic clip, I believe the clip could be cut away to expose the tube under it.
> 2) Generally, Antifreeze is mostly that, it will only get down to a certain temp, but also *WILL* boil. It does have anticorrosives in it, but I believe they are Electro-conductive, which is why very few people use it in computers. Had a many Thermostat Housing in my car Corrode no due to oxidation, but Electralisis. That is yet another reason (out of many) why vehicles' engines need to have ground wires.
> 
> As far as a pump, I was actually going to try and find a Boat Jabsco Pump and rewire it to molex and see how many AMP's it draws, Most Marine outfitters have small ones that will bail out a 12ft skiff in 10mins for like $20. Would be a fun project to cut out a large portion of a watercooled build


I see tubes with id of 1/4 (6,5mm) are supported by pump, that guy pbu4go used 1/4 tubes and then he put 3/8 on them. And what about hole in reservoir? Is it usefull in pc wc? And you say that car antifreeze/corrosive will boil in my ghettoloop?


----------



## reaver83

IDK about boil in this setup, but if it gets up to 250 degree's Fairenheit in a car, it boils. What Antifreeze does is it acts as a Thermal conductor so that the liquid does not freeze in cold weather. But, as a result it is also Electrically conductive as well. very much like thermal compound, you do not want liquid that is Electrically conductive near electrical parts. Any leaks and the whole setup is bricked!

Far as the hole in a Reservoir, I'm not sure. It's good to have a hole for filling, and also for letting air out of the system, but bad of moving things around as it could possibly leak out. I would suggest getting a cap to seal it, but for a day or so leave it open so that air can be relieved, and monitor the levels for a few days and put a line on it for cold full, and hot full so that you can tell if the levels have dropped, requiring more liquid. Just the same as maintainance with a car Liquid fluids, when you add a open part to these setups I would suggest keeping tabs on the levels.


----------



## Vowels

Is there much difference between a single GT AP-15 and push/pull AP-15 on a Kuhler 620? Can't decide if it's worth spending the extra dollars for a 2nd AP-15 for a future build.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Vowels*
> 
> Is there much difference between a single GT AP-15 and push/pull AP-15 on a Kuhler 620? Can't decide if it's worth spending the extra dollars for a 2nd AP-15 for a future build.


With that Antec P182 case, meh, couldn't hurt. I would like to think that the way I did my case helps too, with one fan mounted outside the case, radiator against the case on the inside, then a fan to push.



Doing this puts the radiator even further away from the VRM's, but makes for a very unplesant experiance trying to plug in anything in the rear ports while on


----------



## EternalRest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboPanda*
> 
> Question for you guys. I have a thermaltake Chaser with 4 200mm fans two of them up top. Should i put the one closest to the 920 as exhaust or put it as intake to supply the fans with ample cold air to push out>?


Any word on this? I have the chaser and will be getting the 920.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EternalRest*
> 
> Any word on this? I have the chaser and will be getting the 920.


Well, My question would be, where is the CPU as oppsed to these fans. I found if you do not have air moving around these coolers, and pure negative air flowing outward, but it doesn't curculate around the processor, the temps are usually warmer CPU and radiator-wise. Also to concider, how warm does your Northbridge/GPU get? It does effect the overall cooling of these coolers, just like every other cooler. Mine, I see anywhere from 19C idle to 28C load and average about 21C with the exhaust fan in my pic turned around to intake, and a 120mm fan positioned to move air over the Northbridge/GPU area, not to mention the 120mm side panel fan also blowing inward.

But this is in a NZXT Guardian case. TBH, I have give up on buying cases, as everyone I have owned has had poor airflow. thinking of buying a $20-30 Case and taking it apart to nothing and redesigning it to meet my needs. In the end, doesn't everyone?


----------



## TurboPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EternalRest*
> 
> Any word on this? I have the chaser and will be getting the 920.


sorry man not yet..i currently have the chaser and the 4 200mm fans sitting on the floor in pieces waiting for my 2nd 6870 and my other items they will be here tomm and everything will be put together love the wife for this:thumb:. I dont have the patience to run all those wires and she loves doing it. I will have results tomm evening be patient i will be taking plenty of pics as well


----------



## EternalRest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboPanda*
> 
> sorry man not yet..i currently have the chaser and the 4 200mm fans sitting on the floor in pieces waiting for my 2nd 6870 and my other items they will be here tomm and everything will be put together love the wife for this:thumb:. I dont have the patience to run all those wires and she loves doing it. I will have results tomm evening be patient i will be taking plenty of pics as well


Cool. I'll be waiting.


----------



## Darylrese

Thinking of getting the Antec Kúhler H2O 920 to replace my aging Corsair H50....is it worth it? Will be used to cool my i5 2500k

I have 2 x AP15's should i use these instead of the fans that come with the 920?

How does the 920 compare to the Corsair H100?


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darylrese*
> 
> Thinking of getting the Antec Kúhler H2O 920 to replace my aging Corsair H50....is it worth it? Will be used to cool my i5 2500k
> 
> I have 2 x AP15's should i use these instead of the fans that come with the 920?
> 
> How does the 920 compare to the Corsair H100?


S

I don't know anything about the hk50 but I think any non stock fans are better the stock 920/620 ones.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehwalris*
> 
> S
> I don't know anything about the hk50 but I think any non stock fans are better the stock 920/620 ones.


IDK, depends on whether they can be controlled in Chill Control, and how loud they get maxed out.


----------



## angel88888

How many rpm do the pump in the H2O 620?
Mine says 960 rpm more o less. I don´t know if this is a normal valor...








I have it in a 560ti Hawk, I´ll post some pics/temps in the nexts days


----------



## Delboy

Normal full pump speed is 1400rpm and it should run full speed all the time as per Antec.


----------



## granno21

Just picked up a 620 from the wife for Christmas. Once I start the build, I'll post some pics.

Should be interesting since I'm going to try and squeeze it into a Silverstone Sugo SG-03 micro case


----------



## granno21

Build Log:



Adding the Antec 620 and a few fans to my tiny Silverstone Sugo case



The cooler installed in the small case. Took a while to position the radiator over the front intake fan of the SG-03. Unfortunately, the power supply is installed over the top of the cooler so you can't see running when everything is setup.



Everything installed. You can really see that cabling in this case can be a problem, but with low temps, it really doesn't bother me.



At least its a clean build from the outside.

Summary: Dropped load temps over 15C compared to the Intel stock cooler. Now I have my i5 2500k running at 4.5Ghz with Load temps under 50C. It is extremely quiet and a great purchase at $50.


----------



## ConradTP

Guys I just bought a 620 here, but I haven't mounted it on a my CPU yet -plugged it on a spare fan header. Is it normal to hear mild clicking sound?
I was expecting this thing is primed too, but when you shake it you can literally hear the fluid swishing inside.


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ConradTP*
> 
> Guys I just bought a 620 here, but I haven't mounted it on a my CPU yet -plugged it on a spare fan header. Is it normal to hear mild clicking sound?
> I was expecting this thing is primed too, but when you shake it you can literally hear the fluid swishing inside.


Let it run in one orientation for about a minute.


----------



## ConradTP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tehwalris*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *ConradTP*
> 
> Guys I just bought a 620 here, but I haven't mounted it on a my CPU yet -plugged it on a spare fan header. Is it normal to hear mild clicking sound?
> I was expecting this thing is primed too, but when you shake it you can literally hear the fluid swishing inside.
> 
> 
> 
> Let it run in one orientation for about a minute.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Running fine now.. Just oriented the rad with the tubes at the bottom so the air would not get sucked back to the pump. Now I just need to shop for new fans for a p/p.









I'll try to post a photo when I get back home from work and mount it.


----------



## TurboPanda

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ConradTP*
> 
> Thanks! Running fine now.. Just oriented the rad with the tubes at the bottom so the air would not get sucked back to the pump. Now I just need to shop for new fans for a p/p.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll try to post a photo when I get back home from work and mount it.


i have the cougar fans on my 920 and i love them will put up pics in a second

but here are the fans ABSOLUTELY SILENT MWAHAHAHA~!!!!









http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553002


----------



## TurboPanda

and pics as promised



i have tried fans both ways on the top for all of you thermaltake chaser guys and found at best a 1 degree temp difference so i currently have them as exhaust

ENJOY!


----------



## Darylrese

The 920 is on offer today for £69.98...should i grab one? Can i use my AP-15's with this cooler and still control them through the built in fan controller?


----------



## roskof

Hello 620/920 owners. I just purchased a 920 to replace my 620.

Is it a good Idea to replace the stock fans with a 3 pin GT Scythe AP-15?


----------



## iusearayK47

I just got the Antec Kuhler 920 and does anybody know if my temperatures are high?

i7 920 D0 OC'd to 3.4 at 1.175V
Using AS5
Ambient of 21C

Idle: 39, 42, 42, 42
Load: 64, 66, 67, 67

I think I'm getting the same temperatures as when I had my Hyper 212+ on push and pull. Kind of disappointing for me. ):

Is it the thermal paste? I had to reapply thermal paste since I bought it from somebody else.
How much are you suppose to add?


----------



## viper522

This 920 isn't a super-efficient custom water loop. Properly installed, it will only beat out a high end air cooler in some combinations. What it does do is take the weight off the mobo, tidy up the region on and around the CPU, and blow all the warm air it produces out of your case (assuming you've set it as exhaust). Most air coolers circulate the warm air they blow off the heatsink, though a few help direct it toward an exhaust fan for partial exit.


----------



## EternalRest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TurboPanda*
> 
> and pics as promised
> 
> 
> i have tried fans both ways on the top for all of you thermaltake chaser guys and found at best a 1 degree temp difference so i currently have them as exhaust
> ENJOY!


Thanks for posting.


----------



## BWG

I have one. 920

Folds a 4.7GHz 2600k 24/7 at 70-74C in a 26C ambient. I just set it on the default fan speed too. It is silent. I used MX-4 though.


----------



## CloudX

Some pics of my latest buiild I used a 920. I love these things!





































With all the positive pressure that case had it didn't matter where I placed the Antec. It primed with excellent temps.



















After that I set a good profile and you barely hear the Antec get going when you are in the middle of a heavy render or some BF3


----------



## viper522

Where's your SLI video cards??


----------



## CloudX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> Where's your SLI video cards??


That was a client's PC I built. It's a 2600k @ 45x and 16gb Ram with a v4800 pro for Solidworks.

http://photobucket.com/n9thpc

I own the sig rig. It's pics are here (old and new, had a 2500k first).

http://photobucket.com/justani5

Got this i7 2700k here for less than 2 weeks. I have winter cold air setup from a window going to my Antec believe it or not lol. It's pretty clean. Temps have been phenomenal. Anyways I probably should take some new pics with the 460s in, they are pretty low key though.


----------



## iusearayK47

Okay I tried remounting the whole cooler and removed some thermal paste and now the temperatures dropped a good 5C on idle and and 7C on load.

Awesome!


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iusearayK47*
> 
> Okay I tried remounting the whole cooler and removed some thermal paste and now the temperatures dropped a good 5C on idle and and 7C on load.
> Awesome!


When I reseated my 920 with AS5, the temps were actually higher than with the stock compound. Due to lack of availibility of more AS5 in ANY local store in my area, I bought the Antec Formula 6 Nano Diamond TIM, and that put temps close to the range of the stock compound that it came with. Not sure if it's just the temp changes, but keeping the temps regulated recently has been a real PITA. Even so, I rarely see CPU temps above 25C, even at load.


----------



## Delboy

There is no way that your CPU temp is not going over 25c. In which program you are checking? Install Real temp 3.67 version and download Linx for some stress testing. Your temps will touch the sky. There is no way even at idle that you have those temps. Maybe in the freezer


----------



## sixfootsix

my 2500K (stock) runs idle at about 23-25c too


----------



## viper522

My 2600k idled at below 30 stock as well. But that didn't last very long. Even at 4300 it's 35/35/30/27 across the cores. Probably running more Vcore than necessary for this speed, too.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Delboy*
> 
> There is no way that your CPU temp is not going over 25c. In which program you are checking? Install Real temp 3.67 version and download Linx for some stress testing. Your temps will touch the sky. There is no way even at idle that you have those temps. Maybe in the freezer


I'll be honest, recently my temps have been hovering around 24C in CoreTemp, only because of this darn heatwave we've had here. 80F highs, just not great weather. I saw temps as low as 16C during the last cold snap we had. Tell ya what, next time we have less than 20F difference in the Low's and Highs, I'll reset my CoreTemp monitor and post pics 

the biggest reason my computer does not get that hot is because I am rarely on it during the hottest part of the day. The outside weather plays a big part of the temps in my room because the walls lack insulation, and have cracks you can see outside. Dont hate me cause I'm poor


----------



## CloudX

Those idle temps aren't unheard of.










It's 75F in the room now. And at 5:11 it was probably 68F.


----------



## viper522

CloudX, what widget is that next to the recycle bin with all the temps on one display? thanks


----------



## RagingLoon

Thoughts? I was just browsing the web when all of a sudden the fans ramped up and my CPU temp skyrocketed! I pushed and held the power button right away because, it over 60 and was not slowing down. When I rebooted about 30 seconds latter it just shut down again so I waited, tapped my Kuhler 620 and wiggled the hoses. After about 2 min's latter I booted up and got the "Overclocked failed" or whatever that message is "press F1 to enter setup." Everything is now back to normal.

The thing of it is, I've been running stock lately and was when this happened I was stock. I normally idle in the mid 30's and never hit 60 even while running OCCT, prime 95 or anything. My overclocks up to 4Ghz don't even hit 60!

When this happened and my fans were screaming and the temp just kept climbing, all I was thing was. ... "Did my pump just stop working?" I'm back up and running with normal temps again, but I'm a little concerned.

So, did my Kuhler 620 just have a brain freeze?

Edit: The machine I'm referring to is "Project Artichoke" in my sig.


----------



## CloudX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> CloudX, what widget is that next to the recycle bin with all the temps on one display? thanks


It's called OpenHardwareMonitor 0.3.2 beta. Pretty slick.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingLoon*
> 
> Thoughts? I was just browsing the web when all of a sudden the fans ramped up and my CPU temp skyrocketed! I pushed and held the power button right away because, it over 60 and was not slowing down. When I rebooted about 30 seconds latter it just shut down again so I waited, tapped my Kuhler 620 and wiggled the hoses. After about 2 min's latter I booted up and got the "Overclocked failed" or whatever that message is "press F1 to enter setup." Everything is now back to normal.
> The thing of it is, I've been running stock lately and was when this happened I was stock. I normally idle in the mid 30's and never hit 60 even while running OCCT, prime 95 or anything. My overclocks up to 4Ghz don't even hit 60!
> When this happened and my fans were screaming and the temp just kept climbing, all I was thing was. ... "Did my pump just stop working?" I'm back up and running with normal temps again, but I'm a little concerned.
> So, did my Kuhler 620 just have a brain freeze?
> Edit: The machine I'm referring to is "Project Artichoke" in my sig.


Sounds like something abnormal happened. I'd keep an eye on it.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingLoon*
> 
> Thoughts? I was just browsing the web when all of a sudden the fans ramped up and my CPU temp skyrocketed! I pushed and held the power button right away because, it over 60 and was not slowing down. When I rebooted about 30 seconds latter it just shut down again so I waited, tapped my Kuhler 620 and wiggled the hoses. After about 2 min's latter I booted up and got the "Overclocked failed" or whatever that message is "press F1 to enter setup." Everything is now back to normal.
> The thing of it is, I've been running stock lately and was when this happened I was stock. I normally idle in the mid 30's and never hit 60 even while running OCCT, prime 95 or anything. My overclocks up to 4Ghz don't even hit 60!
> When this happened and my fans were screaming and the temp just kept climbing, all I was thing was. ... "Did my pump just stop working?" I'm back up and running with normal temps again, but I'm a little concerned.
> So, did my Kuhler 620 just have a brain freeze?
> Edit: The machine I'm referring to is "Project Artichoke" in my sig.


that is wierd. I think the only reason my OC's fail on my Asus Motherboard is due to the fact that I run mixed RAM, (bought a 4GB stick to eliminate it as problem for bad Motherboard). Do you have the Cool &Quiet disabled, and the PWM Fan headers set to disable? On any other setting, they ramp for motherboard temps. If the Kuhler 620 is hooked to one of these with it on, it may have throttled down long enough for it to heat up, which is bad. The pump should stay a constant speed. Also,put-puting around at idle all day, I kept the fan profile to Low=21, High=30, highest liquid temp I saw was 28.1C. Of course, temps in my room were anywhere from 80F to 50F. If I'm home at the hotest part of the day, I'll do a test on Prime95 to load out the system and see peak temps, but I guess my absolute low right now is 15C


----------



## RagingLoon

I have the Kuhler 620 plugged directly into my PSU so, it's not being throttled. It's been up and running for 21 hours now with no issues, but I'm still concerned. Maybe it was an air pocket?


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *RagingLoon*
> 
> I have the Kuhler 620 plugged directly into my PSU so, it's not being throttled. It's been up and running for 21 hours now with no issues, but I'm still concerned. Maybe it was an air pocket?


IDK then. It may have been a rogue air pocket. Judging by your pictures, it looks like your radiator sits almost identical height to the top of the pump. Mine does not sit that high up. I'm personally looking to mod my case to add more room above the case fan area, maybe add a 120MM slot up top, and room for a upgrade radiator.

BTW, so you guys think my cool temps are bogus, figured I'd show you Prime95 running from 4PM-5PM, (usually the warmest part of the day here). This was the In-Place Large FFTs (maximum heat, power consumption, some RAM tested) on all 6 cores. As you can see max at full load for a hour is 33C, and the temps actually dropped during the test. So this put's my temps anywhere from Low=15C to High=33C. Not bad, I think.


----------



## Reaper84

Hi Guys

New to OCN and loving the forum. I have a Antec Kuhler 620 that is currently using just the stock fan as a pull at the rear of my case.

I will be getting a Scythe GT-14 in a couple weeks and want to know if replacing the stock fan will be a good idea? Just getting 1 fan so no push/pull.

I can also get 2 x Cougar Vortex hdb 12cm fans in a push/pull. Any thoughts on these?

I will post some pics with my setup so I can be added to the club soon









Hope you all had a great Christmas

Thanks


----------



## Reaper84

No replies yet. OK









Add me to the club as well pls, finally managed to take a pic



I painted the green LGA775 clips black as green is not my style.

Absolutely loving this thing, way better than the stock 775 cooler


----------



## Airrick10

The green clips are used for the AMD sockets and the blue clips are for Intel....just an FYI


----------



## Airrick10

To Reaper84: I ended getting the cougar vortex 12cm fans and they work great!! I'll take some pics as well and post them up later on.


----------



## reaver83

yeah, Why they did that I have no clue. How many AMD setups actually have anything green on them except AMD Name-brand boards? Even their boards are going to red or blue setups. Those green clips stick out like a sore thumb in my Black and Light Blue themed Computer.


----------



## Reaper84

Airrick10, The green clips are for AMD sockets and Intel LGA775 sockets. The blue ones are only for the newer Intel sockets. I still have a Core2Quad so it uses the green ones.

Reaver, why not paint them like I did, just used normal spray paint and it works like a bomb. Propably a mission to take off just to change the colour though


----------



## pengs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper84*
> 
> No replies yet. OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add me to the club as well pls, finally managed to take a pic
> 
> I painted the green LGA775 clips black as green is not my style.
> Absolutely loving this thing, way better than the stock 775 cooler


Ah, there it is. I have my tubes and radiator positioned just like this. Looks nice.


Does anyone ever see the Antec fan ramp up? I've never seen it go past 1330rpm even around 56c cores/45c cpu case.
I've got the fan connected to the CPU header and have tried custom mobo profiles, disabling profiles and see no difference in rpm.


----------



## chris.b




----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper84*
> 
> Airrick10, The green clips are for AMD sockets and Intel LGA775 sockets. The blue ones are only for the newer Intel sockets. I still have a Core2Quad so it uses the green ones.
> Reaver, why not paint them like I did, just used normal spray paint and it works like a bomb. Propably a mission to take off just to change the colour though


Oh ok...I've must have overlooked that...Good to know! I too want to paint those clips black...maybe later on. They look great!


----------



## tehwalris

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Reaper84*
> 
> No replies yet. OK
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Add me to the club as well pls, finally managed to take a pic
> 
> I painted the green LGA775 clips black as green is not my style.
> Absolutely loving this thing, way better than the stock 775 cooler


You should add a second fan, it makes a big difference. You can use case fan + antec f an like I did









PS. Is that a MSI gtx-460 hawk?


----------



## Reaper84

I have ordered a scythe GT 14 although I am not sure if I should add it as a push. Is it OK to do so? Will it not interfere with the stock fan?

My gfx card is a Radeon 6950 twin frozr 3 power edition, looks like all the other twin frozer/hawk cards though


----------



## pengs

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Sugestion: 1) don't take both sides of the Doublesided tape off til you line things upand have screws in the board. 2) Don't freak out if it don't line up perfect. Just put the screws in with it back from the motherboard, and tighten them 4 turns on one, move in a cross pattern, 4 turns on that one, move beside it, 4 turns on that one, move across, 4 turns on that one.
> 
> Keep doing this til right b4 the foam touches the board, then push it to the board to make sure it lines up, then pull back and remove the cover off the foam. Then and only then do you put the pump in, get it in the slots, then finish tightening the screws. *Be careful not to overtighten and snap your board!*


Just chiming in on this. It's an old post.
I don't think you can over tighten the screws. I must have turned them 10-15 times expecting them to stop or tighten more than they did. Aren't the screws smooth at the top? It's been about a month since I installed it but that would explain why they never passed a certain strain.


----------



## Ghoul Forsaken

Hello overclockers.

I know this is an old post, but I don't know if you are willing to answer my question. I was just wondering if the antec 920 cooler will fit in the antec nine hundred two v3 case. As we are in process of buying a new i7 mainstream gaming pc.

Thank you, Anthony.


----------



## chris.b

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ghoul Forsaken*
> 
> Hello overclockers.
> I know this is an old post, but I don't know if you are willing to answer my question. I was just wondering if the antec 920 cooler will fit in the antec nine hundred two v3 case. As we are in process of buying a new i7 mainstream gaming pc.
> Thank you, Anthony.


it will be tight with the 920 but will most probably fit. The 620 will fit without any problems


----------



## ConradTP

Here is mine installed








Temps are better than my air cooler and the temps dropped 8-10 degrees Celsius on linx but the pumps still caries this mild clicking sound. Tried shaking and tilting it already but it still ticks, should I send this back for an RMA? Are your pumps silent?



On 28-30c ambient


----------



## CloudX

I'd keep an eye on it. Pumps on these are usually pretty quiet.


----------



## roskof

Had the 620 for about 10 days then immediately upgraded to the 920.


----------



## chris.b

love the case!


----------



## rebelnitro

]
just got mine kuhler!! Happy New Year!!


----------



## reaver83

Blah, all these great cases you guys have, and I had to cheap out and buy the NZXT Guardian 921RB







I've been thinking about making my own case, maybe a wood one or if I can get my hands on some decent sheet aluminum. For the motherboard tray I have some "No Parking" signs I got from my previous job. IDK, even though my CPU temps are cool, I still have issues with my Northbridge hovering at 45C, which is a little counter-productive. IDK, maybe when I get a little bit of money I could buy a Northbridge Water-block and just tap into the Kuhler 920, think that might help?


----------



## Ghoul Forsaken

I thank you guys for the reply. I think I might go with Corsair H80 since I heard the problems from other people about it and I don't think it will fit in the Antec Nine Hundred Two v3 Case. So we will get the Antec Twelve Hundred v3 Case instead.

Thank you, Anthony.


----------



## Ghoul Forsaken

Oh, I just had a thought then. We are still thinking of going liquid water tubing if we still go a head with Antec Nine Hundred Two v3 Case or have it in the Antec Twelve Hundred v3 Case instead. We have NEVER done liquid water tubing before, so it's new to us.

Thanks again, Anthony. Have a great year every one!


----------



## hangman

Hello All and Happy New Year.
New to the forum, love these coolers.

I just upgraded from a Kuhler 620 to a 920. The 620 had been configured as push-pull and I controlled it using SpeedFan. Now for the 920 after overcoming a USB/install issue I'm using Chill Control and find that I really miss the ability to also just set the fan speed myself (hint, hint Antec).

Also, although my CPU is lapped, in the past I never did the cooler. Now that I've actually checked both the coolers I've found them to be fairly convex (raised in the middle).

Has anyone successfully lapped one of these coolers without taking them apart? No panic, just wondering.


----------



## atibbo69

Hey guys! I am thinking about buying the 920 but I'm wondering if it will fit in my NZXT Phantom case. I want to mount it in the top back of my case in a push pull config.

Having one fan outside the case and have the rad and pull fan inside the case. But I wanna make sure I still have room for the top 200mm fan and the side 200mm fan.

Any information much appreciated!


----------



## reaver83

I don't know about the Phantom, but from what I've seen in my Guardian, and with other NZXT cases, they usually allow for the top fans to be mounted with a large fan in rear. But, I have heard from reviews that the top fan is a NZXT specific design screw pattern, and if you want to put a second one in the top, you will either have to make a custom bracket, or buy one from NZXT.

Putting one fan on the outside may help, since the size of the radiator is fairly large, and will mount directly above the VRM's. My suggestion though, take a glue stick, rub the washers that they include with the kuhler on it, then stick the screws in the fan holes and press the washers on the fan til they stick. This will give enough clearance for the fan to be on the outside, since the fan hole sticks out a little. also, not real sure where the fan will hit the case, but if its like my Guardian, you will either have to shave the side panel, or the fan. I chose the fan, since it won't shine bright if it's shaved.


----------



## viper522

Love the rigs guys. Haven't added my own pic yet since installing over a month ago. Here it is with the room lights on. All blue LEDs, but the yellow CFL bulb overhead plays tricks with long exposures.


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, just so you know, Akasa has put out a new PWM fan with specs of 600-1600RPM.

http://www.akasa.co.uk/update.php?tpl=product/product.detail.tpl&no=181&type=Fans&type_sub=PWM%20Control&model=AK-FN064

I'm thinking of buying 2 for push pull on a kuhler 620. I will then connect the pump to a 3 pin socket and use a pwm splitter for these 2 fans. Should work a treat and I think 2 x @ 1600 rpm will do the trick instead of 1 blowing @ 2000 rpm.

Tell me what you think


----------



## EternalRest

Anyone know of a good PWM fan I should I get?


----------



## mspiredm3

Hey guys, has anyone modded their Antec 920 to add a res like the Corsair guys are doing?


----------



## RagingLoon

Quote:


> Anyone know of a good PWM fan I should I get?


I got these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185144 they are PWM look at the pic's and they work great!


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RagingLoon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Anyone know of a good PWM fan I should I get?
> 
> 
> 
> I got these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835185144 they are PWM look at the pic's and they work great!
Click to expand...

What you need for the Kuhler are two 4 pin (cpu fan socket) fans. This one has pwm function via molex power connector, not the most ideal I think. :|

You're saying these two Scythe fans (~ 1300 rpm each) give same performance (i.e., temps) as the stock antec fan?


----------



## reaver83

Will be keeping all these fans in mind as my College Grant money comes in. The Antec fans are fine, as long as you keep them on quiet. But, when overclocking, you can't do that


----------



## EternalRest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Will be keeping all these fans in mind as my College Grant money comes in. The Antec fans are fine, as long as you keep them on quiet. But, when overclocking, you can't do that


I don't want my computer sounding like a vaccum cleaner. Reason why I want to change the stock fans. I would really like the get Noctua's new PWM fans, but they're pricely. =[


----------



## viper522

You can keep it quiet, depending on what you're doing. At 100% load, if you're trying to keep temps below 60F on an i7, yes it needs to move a lot of air and it's going to make noise. At partial load or infrequent full load spikes, you should have no trouble keeping it both under 60 and quiet. The water draws away some of the heat spike's temperature rise so it won't necessarily jump from 35C to 65C in an instant like on air. That shock is better absorbed by recirculating water.

I've been folding 24hr/day for the last 3 or 4 days.
[email protected] 1.33V
Antec Kuhler 920 stock fans
Antec CC Fan ramp start 31C (liquid temp)
Antec CC Fan ramp full 41C (liquid temp)
EVGA GTX [email protected] 1.0V

The GTX 570 is much louder than the Kuhler. CoreTemp is reporting 58/59C on the highest core and the room is 26C ambient. Antec CC spinning the fans at 1250RPM and liquid temp 35C using the above fan profile in Custom mode.

When I stop folding the fans drop to 500rpm as the CPU idles and it is completely inaudible. When playing BF3 or SRTT it is completely inaudible. I also generally change the Antec CC Fan ramp full to 43C when not Folding or expecting long periods of full CPU loads.


----------



## granno21

The stock Antec fan is not bad considering how much air it moves. Even at full blast, it still is much quieter than other fans I have used in the past.

I have it cooling my i5 2500k that is crunching for Boinc 24/7 and it is not too loud in my small apartment


----------



## reaver83

IDK, with the Kuhler 920 after about 1600RPM, it just seems like you get turbulance between the 2 fans. Either that, or the holes in the fan slot on my case can't push that much air through them, which is probably the case.


----------



## reaver83

hey, just for the people that have tinkered in this, got a very good question:

When you install the drivers/'4-pin USB plug, do the drivers bypass the motherboards ability to throttle the CPU according to it's onboard CPU Load calibrations? What i was thinking is I would much rather it actively controll the fans by load, not temps of the Liquid in the cooler. Therefore, what I was going to do was take the 3-pin Fan plug off the CPU 4-pin fan header, and put it on another header. Then, buy one of these Splitters and connect them to the CPU fan header. My thoughts are doing this will put my radiator fans ramping with CPU load like the stock cooler, therefore giving it even cooler temps.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Can anybody please tell me the correct hose size I need if I were to do one of those swiftech mcres micro reservoir mods. does it fit right out of the box or do I need to purchase barbs with it?







I was looking at ths guide http://www.electronicspub.com/article/23/2/Corsair-H70-mod-guide.html - its for the H70, but it mentions I need extra barbs / fittings?


----------



## reaver83

This guy added a radiator to his setup. My suggestion, find somewhere inline for a drain tube as well. His is in a Lian-Li A05N modded case, so the reservoir is kindda low in the system. It makes for draining to be a pain. You could try talking with him to see what you would need.


----------



## Caos

Hi, I have my antec 620 connected to CPU_FAN, but can be connected to chasis_fan pump connector?

thanks..


----------



## Reaper84

Hi Guys

I am getting my scythe GT14 tomorrow and was wondering if I should swap my Antec 620 fan for this one or add it in a push/pull config with the antec?

If push/pull is best which one pushes and which one pulls









Is the scythe GT14 very quiet compared to the Antec fan?

Any advise?

Thanks


----------



## Davayy

May aswell add it for push/pull. My set up i have pushing as exhaust ( so fan against the case) and then pulling in from the inside (against the rad inside the case)


----------



## reaver83

Depends on placement of the radiator TBH. If it up and away from the motherboard, (like some cases do) then you could pull it into the case just fine and get decent temps. Some people have enough room in there case to set it up in the top Exhaust hole, which is great for it to Exhaust out. My Setup, to keep good airflow, I had to add a fan for intake in the 5.25" drive bay to get airflow to my Northbridge, and set the radiator to exhaust, then flipped the top exhaust fan to a intake fan. Even doing this, I still get high temps inside my case with the panels on. Personally, I blame it on poor airflow design by the case manufacturers.


----------



## EternalRest

Which PWM fan would be better?

COUGAR CF-V12HP
Noctua NF-F12


----------



## James666

I just installed the 620 in my pc and for the time being I have the stock fan plugged into the pump and the pump plugged into the cpu fan header. However, the fan seems to running at 100% the whole time and it doesn't even speed up when I do a stress test. This means it is really noisy and pretty annoying. So have I got a faulty pump or is the voltage regulation rubbish anyway?
Thanks, James


----------



## mspiredm3

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James666*
> 
> I just installed the 620 in my pc and for the time being I have the stock fan plugged into the pump and the pump plugged into the cpu fan header. However, the fan seems to running at 100% the whole time and it doesn't even speed up when I do a stress test. This means it is really noisy and pretty annoying. So have I got a faulty pump or is the voltage regulation rubbish anyway?
> Thanks, James


Do you have the USB cord off the pump plugged in? If no, then plug it in. If yes, you have it plugged in upside down, take it out and turn it 180 degrees and re-insert.


----------



## James666

The 620 doesn't have a usb cable, that's only the 920.


----------



## bmgjet

Have had a antec 620 for a while, Recently upgraded it to a antec 920.
The 920 was only 2C better then my 620 which had 2 fans in push/pull and lapped.
So I lapped the 920 and now its 4C better.

Any way here it is.

2X 620's cooling my gfx cards.
1X 920 cooling my cpu.


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *James666*
> 
> I just installed the 620 in my pc and for the time being I have the stock fan plugged into the pump and the pump plugged into the cpu fan header. However, the fan seems to running at 100% the whole time and it doesn't even speed up when I do a stress test. This means it is really noisy and pretty annoying. So have I got a faulty pump or is the voltage regulation rubbish anyway?
> Thanks, James


Same thing here and I'm pretty sure I installed and configured everything correctly. It's supposedly the pump's role to control the fan speed. Like I said here before, it's better to go on a push-pull config with two 1500 rpm fans. Plug the pump into a 3 pin fan header and hook the two fans via pwm y splitter cable to the cpu header. My guess is Antec/Asetek predicted most users will do this. Now, thinking of it, you say "then why didn't I buy the 920?" well turns out the fans aren't great on that one either and performance wise the 920 doesn't justify the difference.


----------



## James666

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Same thing here and I'm pretty sure I installed and configured everything correctly. It's supposedly the pump's role to control the fan speed. Like I said here before, it's better to go on a push-pull config with two 1500 rpm fans. Plug the pump into a 3 pin fan header and hook the two fans via pwm y splitter cable to the cpu header. My guess is Antec/Asetek predicted most users will do this. Now, thinking of it, you say "then why didn't I buy the 920?" well turns the fans aren't great on that one either and performance wise the 920 doesn't justify the difference.


What pwm fans aren't too expensive and are a good compromise between airflow and noise?


----------



## adi518

After a huge search on the internet I realized I need two 1500 rpm PWM fans. So, I just bought two Gelid 12 Silent PWM, they run 750-1500RPM. From what I understand they're basically discontinued but you can still get your hands on them. You just to have make sure you pick the model that comes with a 4 pin cpu fan connector and not 3 pin or a molex power connector.










I managed to get to this URL from a Google search, if you try to reach it from the current Gelid website you don't get to this page.
http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=5&id=30










Someone's rig with two of these. I think it looks pretty nice.


----------



## James666

That looks awesome. Now I have yet another problem. This cooler is a replacement as the previous one had a bubble in the pump that I could not get rid of and just this second the pump has started making the exact same noise!!!!!!! I am about to give up on this cooler.


----------



## adi518

Do you get a like a ticking noise?






If that's what you get then it means the pump doesn't get sufficient power. FYI, it runs at fixed speed of 1400 rpm so it needs constant power, meaning you can't have "smart fan" feature turned On in your bios. You must go in your bios and disable that. Mine only does this noise in the first few seconds of a boot where the computer hasn't reached full power yet and then it stops. I asked Antec/Asetek and they said this is how it should be (ie, tick a bit and then silence out).

Said it before but I'll say it again, I wish they included a PROPER install and config guide.








I really hope they don't **** this up in their future coolers.


----------



## James666

I disabled the smart fan feature before I installed it and it runs at around 1435rpm. That's the noise it's making but really loudly.


----------



## adi518

What board you have ?

Go in there again and try changing the CPU Smart Fan Control (if you have such thing) to "Normal" and CPU Smart Fan Mode to "Auto". You have to try everything.

That's the settings on my board (Gigabyte):

In my case, disabling it or leaving it like this yielded the same results but basically first thing to try is completely disabling it.


----------



## James666

I've got an MSI P67A GD53. The only thing I can do is disable or enable and select a temperature for the CPU Smart Fan Target. If it's enabled then I can set the minimum cpu fan speed.


----------



## James666

I think there definitely must be something wrong as I've been running LinX for the past half hour and temps got up to around 50C from idling at around 30C, but the fan speed did not change at all. Also, seeing as the grinding noise has started again the fan is still much louder than it used to be with my previous cooler.


----------



## adi518

Check for a bios update !


----------



## James666

I have the latest update


----------



## CloudX

James, sounds like you got a bad one. It happens and yes sometimes twice.


----------



## James666

So the fan control is meant to work and be noticeable then?


----------



## CloudX

On the 620, the fan is controlled by the motherboard I'm pretty sure. So yes if you have it to auto or you set a target temp and fan speed, the fan will ramp upas CPU heats up. That sounds normal, but the pump should be on a "Full on" or "On" setting or plugged in the the PWR_Fan header if it can reach. usually that one is always on. Really why I feel something is up, is the grinding.

I built a system for a friend and he used a 620. It sounded very quiet to me while I had it overnight for overclocking and stress testing. Especially the pump.

If you really want to hear the pump and all the resonances it makes, place your tower on your desk and place your ear over the back of the CPU socket on the case. You can place some of your head on the case and feel the pump work. Weird but it works. It should be humming, not clicking or grinding.


----------



## James666

The fan can plug into the pump and the pump is meant to change the fan speed depending on the liquid temperature. The fan is only a 2 pin, so I don't think my mobo would control fan speed if it was plugged into the cpu fan header, as I think it can only control fan speed via pwm if the smart target is enabled.
For the time being I've plugged the fan into a separate header and set it to run at 50% in the bios. I can actually hear myself think now and temps are only a few degrees higher.
The grinding has got pretty bad now, although it was slightly better when I turned my pc upside down. So if I have time I might rotate the pump 180 degrees.


----------



## adi518

I'll make a video of mine. Maybe that 'll help. I pretty sure it's the correct working sound.






It may sound a little like the other video someone posted but it is NOT the same.









Easily compare with this (BAD sound):


----------



## James666

I haven't got anything to take a video with. The noise seems to come and go. It's either silent, quiet grinding or really loud grinding.


----------



## adi518

RMA it.


----------



## James666

I have messaged the place I bought it from, but they test everything and if they don't hear the noise and say nothings wrong I'll get charged quite a lot of money. This could happen as the noise isn't always there.


----------



## RagingLoon

Mine sounds like that sometimes too, but it seems to be fine. It comes and goes I know this because, at first I'd get my ear right up in there like a nosy neighbor. The way I see it, is if it goes just like a fan could my CPU will hit TjMAX and shut down and then I'll RMA it, but till then it's moot. Some exact same model HDD's make more noise than others. I would never inconvenience myself by RMA'ing a noisier HDD (of course there could always be an exception to the policy). I'm just saying.


----------



## James666

The grinding noise is really loud though, so it gets very irritating when I'm trying to concentrate. If I end up RMA'ing it I might just try to get a refund and try something else, as knowing my luck I'll probably get a third faulty one.


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Have had a antec 620 for a while, Recently upgraded it to a antec 920.
> The 920 was only 2C better then my 620 which had 2 fans in push/pull and lapped.
> So I lapped the 920 and now its 4C better.
> Any way here it is.
> 2X 620's cooling my gfx cards.
> 1X 920 cooling my cpu.


Nice. So how did you go about lapping the 920? Did you have to take it apart first? Did you do it "normally" by moving the pump across the sandpaper/glass plate or did you did you have to keep the pump stationary and move the glass plate instead? I've recently gone from a push/pull 620 to a 920 myself. My cpu is lapped but the 620+920 are quite convex and I probably won't be able to leave well alone and have to start tinkering again...


----------



## bmgjet

Exactly the same way I did the 620s.
wet 1000, 1200, 2000
soapy 2000,2200

I taped the radiator and cords on to my arm then did it on a mirror moving the block.
Left it fully assembled.

The 620's were a lot worse and they were concave.
The 920 wasnt so bad but it was still a bit convex just off the center of it. Only took about 100 passes each direction with the 1000 grit to get it sanding all of the block evenly.
Where the 620s took at least 500 passes. Then just did 50 passes each direction with the 1200 and 2000 wet.
25 passes with the 2000 soapy and 10 passes with the 2200 very soapy

Then to clean it up I just dunked the coper bit only into some water and air compressed it dry. Then finished up by cleaning with iso wipes to remove any traces or oil from the air compressor before reinstalling it.

I thought about pulling it apart but Antec said id lose my warranty then where with lapping it. It will be fine as long as its not a nasty excessive job and it didn't cause it to fail by stressing the pipes or attachments.

What kind of drop did just lapping the CPU do, I need to find another 4-5C less to be able to run 5ghz 24/7 and not worry about temps during hot days.


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Exactly the same way I did the 620s.
> wet 1000, 1200, 2000
> soapy 2000,2200
> I taped the radiator and cords on to my arm then did it on a mirror moving the block.
> Left it fully assembled.
> The 620's were a lot worse and they were concave.
> The 920 wasnt so bad but it was still a bit convex just off the center of it. Only took about 100 passes each direction with the 1000 grit to get it sanding all of the block evenly.
> Where the 620s took at least 500 passes. Then just did 50 passes each direction with the 1200 and 2000 wet.
> 25 passes with the 2000 soapy and 10 passes with the 2200 very soapy
> Then to clean it up I just dunked the coper bit only into some water and air compressed it dry. Then finished up by cleaning with iso wipes to remove any traces or oil from the air compressor before reinstalling it.
> I thought about pulling it apart but Antec said id lose my warranty then where with lapping it. It will be fine as long as its not a nasty excessive job and it didn't cause it to fail by stressing the pipes or attachments.
> What kind of drop did just lapping the CPU do, I need to find another 4-5C less to be able to run 5ghz 24/7 and not worry about temps during hot days.


Great reply, thanks... I was wondering how I could do it without taking it apart and "taped the radiator and cord to my arm" nails it. I can use my old 620 to practise on if I need to.

Anyway, to answer your question re temp drop lapping cpu only - sadly I didn't keep logs of before/during/after while changing things.
I sort of went from unlapped cpu + 620 push/pull to unlapped cpu + 920 for a couple of hours, then said screw it and lapped the cpu right away. So it's hard to tell.
My impression is that when I configure 920 ChillControl so the fans run about the same as 620 did (with speedfan set at ~1600rpm), it idles maybe only 1 or 2C lower vs where the 620 used to be. But that could be because the 920 is convex and there likely still isn't great contact. If I set ChillControl to Silent it actually idles higher.
So I'm not experienced enough to say whether you'll get another 4-5C savings when the afterburners are on, but there are others out there who claim substantial reductions with lapped cpus and I'd guess having two flat surfaces is much better than one.
Anyways, this time around I will do some before+after tests and when I get there I'll let you know. Thanks again.


----------



## temp337

Are these compatible with the asus p5q motherboards? I've just tried the corsair h80 and it doesn't even touch the CPU. The pre-applied thermal paste doesn't even rub. Capacitors in the way.

I've seen people using the corsair h50 withe the p5q series. So do the 620/920 pumps fit?


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *RagingLoon*
> 
> Mine sounds like that sometimes too, but it seems to be fine. It comes and goes I know this because, at first I'd get my ear right up in there like a nosy neighbor. The way I see it, is if it goes just like a fan could my CPU will hit TjMAX and shut down and then I'll RMA it, but till then it's moot. Some exact same model HDD's make more noise than others. I would never inconvenience myself by RMA'ing a noisier HDD (of course there could always be an exception to the policy). I'm just saying.


TBH, the 2nd video dude posted is how my Western Digital Caviar Black 750GB WDC WD75 02AAEX-00Y9A0 Sounds any time it reads! I could see where the noise is annoying, cause it is very annoying to me, since I have nowhere to mount my optical Disk Drive in my system. I have a Molex cord extention and a IDE ribbon cable sitting next to my computer with the side panel off. Investing in a SATA drive when I get my College Grant money in, for sure!


----------



## K62-RIG

I love my 920 except for the rattling noise I occasionally here. It doesn't seem to effect temps so probably nothing to worry about. my pump speed averages 2890 rpm. I have it plugged straight into a molex.


----------



## EternalRest

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EternalRest*
> 
> Which PWM fan would be better?
> COUGAR CF-V12HP
> Noctua NF-F12


Anyone?


----------



## TheBirdman74

HI, I am a bit new to the Antec Kuhler scene. Working on my friends PC atm, can anyone tell me if its okay to mount the rad upside down? he is using the evga classified motherboard and the kuhler 920, it doesn't fit so I had to install the second fan outside of the case and turned the rad upside down (hoses facing up, at the psu fan). I can hear some air / pump noise or what sounds like water passing through. Is it safe upside down without effecting the temps?


----------



## CloudX

You can mount it like that.


----------



## mardon

I have just purchased the 920 to go with my new rig. I've also ordered a fan controller which can take 3 or 4 pin fans. I'm toying with the idea of setting the pump on max and then controlling the fans myself. I.e. keeping them very quiet for day to day use then knocking them up for gaming or having the option of setting them on max for benching or if I manage a 5ghz oc on my 2500k. Does that sound like a decent idea or should I plug it in properly and set a custom profile with the software? (Side note what are peoples temps at 5ghz with these as a rough guide).

I was thinking of replacing the stock fans with ether these:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-030-SY

or these:

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-032-SY

Do you think they will give better performance than the stock fans and be able to run at a higher speed at a quieter noise level? I was going to purchase more fans for my case so the extra cost is offset since I can now use the Antec stock ones else where in the case also attached to my fan controller?


----------



## Macke93

Got my 620 a few days ago!











Temperatures in Celsius!
Idle: 37 degrees
Load: 50 degrees


----------



## adi518

got these in the mail yesterday









Gelid Silent 12 pwm


----------



## mardon

Been doing a little reading, seems the stock fans at max shift 110CFM each!! So it might be tricky to find fans which can we controlled by a 30w (per dial) fan controller! I dont even know if the stock ones will work on my fan controller. Will have to wait until I get back to the UK to actually find out!


----------



## ruarcs30

Can anyone tell me how to change my pump speed from windows 7?


----------



## CloudX

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Can anyone tell me how to change my pump speed from windows 7?


Doesn't look like you can.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CloudX*
> 
> Doesn't look like you can.


Ok. How about this: Can i take out the stockfan and use another, and run the cooler whithout an fan enabled to it? will the pump still work as it should?


----------



## reaver83

My Idea I had was to basically disconnect all fan functions from the Kuhler 920, and plug both fans (via PWM "Y" Splitter) to the Motherboard in the CPU Fan PWM header. This way it SHOULD ramp the fans like it would the Stock cooler fans, with CPU load, not Temp. It'll be a couple of weeks, but I'm definately trying this out to see how it does. Could always try it with just 1 fan hooked up...


----------



## ruarcs30

i got the 620 so i was wondering if i can run the pump withouth having an fan conected to the pump. Will it hurt the pump?


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> i got the 620 so i was wondering if i can run the pump withouth having an fan conected to the pump. Will it hurt the pump?


I tried it once.. I don't think it did anything. I think it's passive cooling. Everything was at least 10 degrees hotter.


----------



## hangman

The fan doesn't have to be plugged into the pump. But as adi518 said, with no fan at all it's passive cooling. It helps if there is a fan and that the fan is actually plugged in somewhere.


----------



## reaver83

My thought is keep the fans attached, but let the motherboard throttle the fans like it would with a normal cooler using the load ramp, not temps. To make sure it's more agressively marked in Windows 7, simply make a custom power Option and under CPU cooling set it for ACTIVE. Gonna try this with my outter fan probably tonight or tomorrow, since the outside temps are going to be cooler. This way Ambient temps wont make the Radiator temps shoot up while testing.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hangman*
> 
> The fan doesn't have to be plugged into the pump. But as adi518 said, with no fan at all it's passive cooling. It helps if there is a fan and that the fan is actually plugged in somewhere.


So it's ok to take another fan which has options on speeds on it, and connect that to the radiator and have the pump connected by it self, the connector from pump to fan just haning there? And then just set the pump at max rpm?

Great cooler by the way! 1.55/1.4 3.7GHz and it doesn't go over 50 degrees on max heat in prime 95 whit room temp on 24:cheers: 2( fans,push and pull)
What about the 920 and H100, how mutch better is it? And how mutch better is an high end custom water cooling system?

My first attempt on oc back in 1999 ended in a burned cpu, I think i put a jumper wrong and sendt way more power than it could handle. Things have changed seens then! lol


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> My thought is keep the fans attached, but let the motherboard throttle the fans like it would with a normal cooler using the load ramp, not temps. To make sure it's more agressively marked in Windows 7, simply make a custom power Option and under CPU cooling set it for ACTIVE. Gonna try this with my outter fan probably tonight or tomorrow, since the outside temps are going to be cooler. This way Ambient temps wont make the Radiator temps shoot up while testing.


I live in Norway, so i just open the window and it takes 15 min and my room temp is around 0 degrees 
I tried what you sayed, but the problem whit the 620 is that you can only control the pump. And when going under 1000rpm its start making gurgling sound if you understand what i mean. tick tick tick tick... And from 1000-1400rpm, the fan doesnt change that mutch, pritty mutch going on full speed no matter what it seems.
So i think i will remove the stock fan, or perhaps put it in front of the case, and use 2 diffrent fans whit 3 speed lvls. And have the pump connected to the mb only, going on 1400rpm.


----------



## reaver83

Ah, see, that is the difference, I'm running the 920, and 2 fans. 1 is outside, one in. I'll do some experimenting here in a few, gonna try it now, even though temp here in Eastern North Carolina, USA are in the lower 20's Celcius. Guess I'll find out REALLY quick


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> So it's ok to take another fan which has options on speeds on it, and connect that to the radiator and have the pump connected by it self, the connector from pump to fan just haning there? And then just set the pump at max rpm?
> Great cooler by the way! 1.55/1.4 3.7GHz and it doesn't go over 50 degrees on max heat in prime 95 whit room temp on 24:cheers: 2( fans,push and pull)
> What about the 920 and H100, how mutch better is it? And how mutch better is an high end custom water cooling system?
> My first attempt on oc back in 1999 ended in a burned cpu, I think i put a jumper wrong and sendt way more power than it could handle. Things have changed seens then! lol


Yes it is ok. Yes, pump max rpm.
For example, my setup was as follows, using an ASUS Rampage III Formula mobo:

1) Pump - plugged into cpu fan header, with its bios automatic fan control disabled so that it gets full constant voltage so pump speed doesnt change. (In my bios it's called "CPU Q fan control" - disabled).

2) Fan(s) - push/pull - I had one fan each plugged into CHA_Fan1 and CHA_Fan3, so two fans - not plugged into pump.
On my mobo those two fans are not independently controlled - they share a single "Chassis Q fan control" automatic control - I disabled it in bios.
I then installed "SpeedFan" software and discovered that its "Speed02" sensor was able to control both the fans at once... worked out great.
I suppose I could have just left my bios "Chassis Q Fan control" enabled and let the bios control both the fans without using SpeedFan.
Or I could have done what you want to do, which is to use fans that have switchable speeds.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hangman*
> 
> Yes it is ok. Yes, pump max rpm.
> For example, my setup was as follows, using an ASUS Rampage III Formula mobo:
> 1) Pump - plugged into cpu fan header, with its bios automatic fan control disabled so that it gets full constant voltage so pump speed doesnt change. (In my bios it's called "CPU Q fan control" - disabled).
> 2) Fan(s) - push/pull - I had one fan each plugged into CHA_Fan1 and CHA_Fan3, so two fans - not plugged into pump.
> On my mobo those two fans are not independently controlled - they share a single "Chassis Q fan control" automatic control - I disabled it in bios.
> I then installed "SpeedFan" software and discovered that its "Speed02" sensor was able to control both the fans at once... worked out great.
> I suppose I could have just left my bios "Chassis Q Fan control" enabled and let the bios control both the fans without using SpeedFan.
> Or I could have done what you want to do, which is to use fans that have switchable speeds.


Thansk for the help! It actually lowered the cpu temp whit about 3-4 degrees whit using push pull whit the 620, not very mutch but it is something,hehe. Not bad to handle 1.55vcore/1.4 cpu nb @ 3.7GHz and never go mutch above 40 degrees on max heat in prime95,room temp on 22 degrees


----------



## reaver83

yeah, tried the same thing, except the pump I keep connected to a molex plug, just to make sure the pump is running. Then I plugged the inside fan into the CPU fan header thinking it might would spool up like a AMD stock heatsink fan would, but it did not. Minimum temps I got with the inside fan plugged into the motherboard were 40C, which is well above what I wanted.

I could have set the CPU fan up in the HW Monitor section of Bios under Q-Fan to run a minimum of 50%, but that would be counter productive. I was stew-balling for quieter ways of cooling this. I guess for now, Asetek's Chill Control is best, though I'd rather it ramp based on Processor use instead of temps.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> yeah, tried the same thing, except the pump I keep connected to a molex plug, just to make sure the pump is running. Then I plugged the inside fan into the CPU fan header thinking it might would spool up like a AMD stock heatsink fan would, but it did not. Minimum temps I got with the inside fan plugged into the motherboard were 40C, which is well above what I wanted.
> 
> I could have set the CPU fan up in the HW Monitor section of Bios under Q-Fan to run a minimum of 50%, but that would be counter productive. I was stew-balling for quieter ways of cooling this. I guess for now, Asetek's Chill Control is best, though I'd rather it ramp based on Processor use instead of temps.


Noise, what is that to an deaf man? Its the temp that matters


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Noise, what is that to an deaf man? Its the temp that matters


being only partially deaf, noise does matter. The background noises like my fans totally block out all other sounds.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> being only partially deaf, noise does matter. The background noises like my fans totally block out all other sounds.


LOL! Thats a good point, I didnt see that coming,hehe.

I think i read something about someone who fixed their radiator in some way to improve temps. Any who has any idea of what i might be thinking of?


----------



## Talos77

I have a Kuhler 920 and have a quick query about it. I have up till now had it positioned in the top of a Silverstone FT02 hanging horizontally. I have just purchased a TJ08-e to replace my FT02 and will therefor be hanging the unit vertically on the rear exhaust point.

My question is what is the general concensus on mounting the radiator? Should the water inlet/outlets be located at the bottom or the top or the radiator? Does it even matter? For neatness sake I'd like to place it with the inlet/outlets at the bottom so that most of the piping will sit along the floor of the case. Will this cause issues? Most WC setups seem to place so that the inlets/outlets are at the top but not sure if there is a reason for this.

Examples of what I mean below to save confusion:

Inlets/Outlets on Bottom

Inlets/Outlets on Top

Any advice is greatly appreciated thanks.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Talos77*
> 
> I have a Kuhler 920 and have a quick query about it. I have up till now had it positioned in the top of a Silverstone FT02 hanging horizontally. I have just purchased a TJ08-e to replace my FT02 and will therefor be hanging the unit vertically on the rear exhaust point.
> My question is what is the general concensus on mounting the radiator? Should the water inlet/outlets be located at the bottom or the top or the radiator? Does it even matter? For neatness sake I'd like to place it with the inlet/outlets at the bottom so that most of the piping will sit along the floor of the case. Will this cause issues? Most WC setups seem to place so that the inlets/outlets are at the top but not sure if there is a reason for this.
> Examples of what I mean below to save confusion:
> Inlets/Outlets on Bottom
> Inlets/Outlets on Top
> Any advice is greatly appreciated thanks.


Mount your radiator just the way you want it, no diffrence:thumb:

Edit: But on the picture you have mounted the pump up side down But that shouldn't matter!


----------



## tobsmonster2

My Kuler 620 is the loudest part of my machine at the moment







. It's functioning normally (no bubbling or trapped air), but the vibration of the pump it self makes a lot of noise in my all aluminium Lian Li case. I guess it's only really a problem because my 5770's are silent at idle, and all the other fans run at ~400 rpm at idle (practically inaudible) so I can here the 'buzzing' of the pump fairly easily. Throttling the pump down to ~1100 rpm removes some high pitch noise, but the general buzz remains. I'm thinking of buying some sound dampening material; any other ideas that may help?


----------



## Coolwaters

i RMAed my last antec H20 620 because it had a horrible ticking problem.

the new one i just got back has a slightly lower pitch ticking spinning noise but im going to let it break-in before i decide what to do with this thing..

i wouldnt mind if it hummed or something but ticking in general is annoying.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolwaters*
> 
> i RMAed my last antec H20 620 because it had a horrible ticking problem.
> the new one i just got back has a slightly lower pitch ticking spinning noise but im going to let it break-in before i decide what to do with this thing..
> i wouldnt mind if it hummed or something but ticking in general is annoying.


Mine get that if it runs on to low rpm, is that a design flaw?`Shall it be supposed to run at 700rpm whitouth making the clicking sound??


----------



## adi518

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Mine get that if it runs on to low rpm, is that a design flaw?`Shall it be supposed to run at 700rpm whitouth making the clicking sound??


Rpm should be fixed around 1400 rpm. Check my video few pages back and compare with your unit.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> What board you have ?
> Go in there again and try changing the CPU Smart Fan Control (if you have such thing) to "Normal" and CPU Smart Fan Mode to "Auto". You have to try everything.
> That's the settings on my board (Gigabyte):
> In my case, disabling it or leaving it like this yielded the same results but basically first thing to try is completely disabling it.


What program is this? Is it possible to use it on my gigabyte 870a-ud3 rev2.1?


----------



## adi518

It's called "Touch Bios" and its a feature some of the new Gigabyte boards have. I looked at your board page and didn't find this feature listed but you can still give it ago, just google for Touch Bios and download the utility. Basically, It's just a windows interface that controls the BIOS. However, it doesn't put changes into immediate effect, you still have to restart but it saves some time and annoyance and give you access to the board temp/fan speed readings rather then having to use 3rd party software.


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Rpm should be fixed around 1400 rpm. Check my video few pages back and compare with your unit.


yeah mines running at 1400rpm. i guess its normal. hopefully it gets more dull over time. break-in

only thing i hate about this thing is the huge amount of air trapped inside...anyway of bleeding it?...


----------



## Meinhof

Do you guys know of any cases that fit the kuhler 920 on the ceiling of the case?


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Meinhof*
> 
> Do you guys know of any cases that fit the kuhler 920 on the ceiling of the case?


your not able to mount it in the back?

if i remember correctly you would need a pretty big case like the 800D


----------



## reaver83

I been thinking about getting either a NXZT Tempest Elite 410, or a Full sized NZXT Phantom. They both have 2x196MM fans at the top, so modding it to fit a 120MM radiator shouldn't be a problem.

Also, some Asus AMD motherboards have something like adi518's board, can't remeber what it's called, Turbo-V or something like that. Also, AMD Overdrive also does this. I personally did not install it on my computer this go-around or reinstalling windows because it constantly runs in the background, chewing up RAM, even after uninstalling the program. That, and AMD Overdrive does not like my GTX460


----------



## Rage19420

Antec KUHLER H2O 620 for $49.99 at MC

Regular at $69.99 Instant Savings of $20.00

http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0361180


----------



## reaver83

Your really keeping tabs on the sales on these things, aren't you? With you SLIing these things on your GPU's, have you given thoughts of maybe turning them into a cheap loop into 1 slightly larger radiator instead of the 2? IDK how well that would work, but... throwing the idea out there.


----------



## Rage19420

I thought about it, but at these price points they are almost disposable. I recall seeing a dual head 240mm rad that used to be sold for Xeon boards. No where to be seen these days.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Hey Thanks Rage, This is tempting me to just grab two of these now!

Can anyone tell me if I can daisy chain two Kuhler Pumps together,

Like, Pump 1 Out >>> Pump 2 In ?? I am thinking going full scale with new clear tubing and a Reservoir.


----------



## reaver83

I honestly don't see why not. Look on Asetek's website for the PNY580GTX. They have one that is discretly GPU, and one that incorperates a CPU block on it. Not sure if they removed one of the impellers though.

*Edited, added link.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Nice! +1 thanks reaver,









The PNY one looks similar to what I was wanting to do. I was wondering tho, do I run the risk of burning the pumps that way? I mean since both pumps have the same configuration joining ones Out and In shouldn't be a problem.

By the way, is there any way I can actually remove the stock black piping without having to cut it off? You know that way I can preserve the warranty and what not. I can be very patient I may add.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:
Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74* 

By the way, is there any way I can actually remove the stock black piping without having to cut it off? You know that way I can preserve the warranty and what not. I can be very patient I may add.









From what I've read from everyone else that has modded these things, no. you mod it, you void the warrantee, no questions asked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74* 

The PNY one looks similar to what I was wanting to do. I was wondering tho, do I run the risk of burning the pumps that way? I mean since both pumps have the same configuration joining ones Out and In shouldn't be a problem.

yeah, I haven't tried this yet, but have been thinking about it. I'm like you , would like to add a reservoir to the mix, and maybe a Northbridge block just to add that extra spot on my board that gets hot into the mix. I Currently have the 920, so I have the slightly larger Rad. Instead of getting another 620 though, temporarly I am just doing the Northbridge/Reservoir. I'll add the GPU as I get the funds to do so. I think reservoir and Northbridge are a higher priority right now, because the NB is really spiking in my computer, whereas the GPU rarely sees temps above 55C.


----------



## reaver83

also, any modding you do to these things.... yeah, I'm hesitant to post on here, cause the rep's from Antec do pop in here from time to time. Only if it works, would I post pics in here.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> From what I've read from everyone else that has modded these things, no. you mod it, you void the warrantee, no questions asked.
> 
> yeah, I haven't tried this yet, but have been thinking about it. I'm like you , would like to add a reservoir to the mix, and maybe a Northbridge block just to add that extra spot on my board that gets hot into the mix. I Currently have the 920, so I have the slightly larger Rad. Instead of getting another 620 though, temporarly I am just doing the Northbridge/Reservoir. I'll add the GPU as I get the funds to do so. I think reservoir and Northbridge are a higher priority right now, because the NB is really spiking in my computer, whereas the GPU rarely sees temps above 55C.


I doubt you would benefit much from having a kuhler dedicated to the GPU. I mean its a GTX460SE, the 280 something cuda core version, I have had a few GTX460 1GB's cards with 336 cuda cores, and on their own they dont really see temps high enough to be considered concerning and are almost wisper quite. But when add a second one to the mix and that's a whole different story









Have you ever say, tried to remove those tubes on your 920? Like if you were to add a north bridge block you would have to remove the whole tubing from end to end from the pump to the radiator right? So how do you do that? I mean if the ends can be easily removed then why cut it in the first place? isn't there a way we can preserve the original tubing so that if it ever fails we can at least reattach it and hope to fall back on the antec warranty? Not to sound unethical but we are all doing these on a budget, isn't there a way this could be done without damaging the stock tubing and fittings?


----------



## reaver83

From what I gather with the Antec 620/920, there are these plastic clips that absolutely have to go, cause they hold the tubing on the barbs. That's what I ment by there is no way to mod them w/o voiding the warantee. Far as the GTX460 goes.... meh, just something to add to the setup. What I'm basically doing is using the Kuhler as a startup for a actual watercooled build. The reservoir I'll be buying has a pump in it, but not sure how I am going to go about doing that, may just leave it unplugged temporarly and see if the Kuhlers pump can handle the addition of the res and another block to it.

Eventually I will swap out the Kuhler with a CPU waterblock, (koolance, EKG, whatever, something that does not have the pump built in), and plug the pump in on the res temporarly til I can afford a proper pump. Then, lastly, buy a large radiator and GPU blocks and make a full system. See what I'm getting at? It's like the AMD of watercooled systems. you start small and work up bigger and better. It's kindda like a Honda Civic, start small and add little bolt on's til you get a little drag race monster.


----------



## sebar

Got my Kuhler H2O 620 and am liking it alot. Only complaint is the anoying clicking sound coming from the pump. Turned the pump upside down and the clicking stopped. not sure if I will bring it back to Frys and get a different one. Here are some pics of it in my In Win Dragon Slayer, set up with push/pull using some cheap coolermaster blue LED fans.

IMG_0693.JPG 5276k .JPG file


IMG_0689.JPG 4984k .JPG file


IMG_0688.JPG 6634k .JPG file


----------



## reaver83

I really don't think these setups like the radiator being lower than the pump, that's just my oppinion. I've never ran mine like that, but I've never got the clicking, or the failures of them like everyone else seems to be getting when the mount the radiator lower like that. There were a couple that actually mounted it like that and it worked, but they changed the water lines, and added a Reservoir to it, voiding their warrantee.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Not to try and Double post, but today, I was rearranging my computer to set it up to make custom heat channels in it, and decided to try something. BTW, these stock Antec fans are Hella Loud outside the case. just so you know, after I did this I saw a 3C diff in CPU/liquid temps, and a 7C drop in NB temps. And it probably dropped the temps of my Voltage Regulators too, but I have no way of telling.


Reading through this thread, trying to find the best way to settup my h20 620. What do you use now?`Seems that you have tried some vari.








And how do you monitor liquid temps on a h20 620? Possible?

Back to the fans, are you using 1 push inside the case and 1 pull outside the case, and having the topp fan blowing inn?


----------



## sebar

I initially set my H20 with the rad on the roof of my dragon slayer case with the stock fan. The temps went down from my zalman air cooler but the H20 was to loud for me. I tried several different setups trying to find the best noise/performance. I tried front mounted rad with enermax magma pushing air through the rad, very loud and minimal improvement over stock (Idle temps approx 33 degrees Celsius, load temps in the low 60 degrees Celsius). I tried top mounted rad with Nautua NF-P14 pulling air through the rad, this set up worked really well and was very quiet (idle at 30 degrees Celsius, load at 58 degrees Celsius). I tried front mounted rad with NF-P14 pushing and NF-P12 pulling, this set up worked the best and was quiet at full load and almost silent at idle (idle at 27 degrees Celsius, load at 50 degrees Celsius) . Unfortunately I need those fans for my main computers NH-D14, and the cost of purchasing these fans is high. I ended up using push/pull with the rad mounted in the front of the case and two coolermaster 120 blue led fans in push pull 9idle at 28 degrees Celsius, load at 53 degrees Celsius). The temps I get with this setup is only 3 degrees higher then with the Nauctua fans and are very quiet. These tests were done on two separate days and i did not measure the ambient temrature however, I live in an area where the temperature does not fluctuate very much and my office is always about 21 degrees Celsius.


----------



## ML241

I'm stuck between the 620 and the H70. I like the warranty Cosair has and cant find out much on Antec. What kind of warranty does Antec provide? What's the fail rate?


----------



## sebar

The Antec 620 has a 3 year warranty and the Corsair H70 has a 2 year warranty.


----------



## ruarcs30

Antec has been very easy whit just sending a new 1 if you got problem whit it. Great brand


----------



## mardon

So mine arrived today, spent ages fitting it, plugged in... and wow what a noise. Sounds like the pump is knackered! So an RMA's Vertex and a Antec H20 920 all in one week! Sad times!

On the plus side while making my PC it seems my new 2500k is pretty decent and my 560Ti is a bit of a beast! Looking forward to getting it back so I can plumb for 5ghz!!


----------



## bmgjet

All of mine ones had made a bad clicking for the first 6-12 hours use, And all of them are perfectly silent now (have 3 of them)
Its just the air bubbles moving out of the pump.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Reading through this thread, trying to find the best way to settup my h20 620. What do you use now?`Seems that you have tried some vari.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And how do you monitor liquid temps on a h20 620? Possible?
> Back to the fans, are you using 1 push inside the case and 1 pull outside the case, and having the topp fan blowing inn?


With the 620, you'll need to get a temp probe of some kind, the 920's temp monitor is built into the pump housing. Like I said b4, mine is the 920.

Yeah, thats how I have it setup right now, but I'm still getting much warmer temps than I want. I think this is the cases fault, not the kuhler. This case was made for old LGA778 setups with air cooling, and the watercooling outlets added later. Not a good liquid cooled setup. I can tell ya right now, the stock Antec fan on the outside of the case is deafening above 50%. Once I get funding I'm getting Either the NZXT Tempest or the NZXT Guardian. I would go Antec, but meh, I really just don't like the styling of their full size cases. That and price/quality ratio.


----------



## juano

Hey guys I'm considering an Antec 620 for a 24/7 folding rig but I've never liked the idea of water inside my machines, especially for expensive machines that I run at full load 24/7. So I was wondering if you guys here would be comfortable running something like an Antec 620 24/7 and trust it to not leak for at least 2 years. Has anybody run an ASetek made all in one for folding for a long period of time? Has anyone heard of any leaks with any Asetek/Antec coolers? I remember reading about 2 leaks I think with the H50/H70 a while ago but wanted to know what the estimate for known leaks is up to. Any information on the subject of constant long term Asetek WC use or on any leaks we've heard about would be appreciated. Thanks.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> Hey guys I'm considering an Antec 620 for a 24/7 folding rig but I've never liked the idea of water inside my machines, especially for expensive machines that I run at full load 24/7. So I was wondering if you guys here would be comfortable running something like an Antec 620 24/7 and trust it to not leak for at least 2 years. Has anybody run an ASetek made all in one for folding for a long period of time? Has anyone heard of any leaks with any Asetek/Antec coolers? I remember reading about 2 leaks I think with the H50/H70 a while ago but wanted to know what the estimate for known leaks is up to. Any information on the subject of constant long term Asetek WC use or on any leaks we've heard about would be appreciated. Thanks.


If I am not misstaken, you got warrenty to cover that. And if you get leak, antec buy you new mb if that has been broken due to water leak.

So if all you worry about is that it is water, then go for it! 99.9% certain you are covered if **** should happen. It's is actually mutch safer to buy a sett rather than build a custom loop when thinking of water leak..


----------



## juano

Well technically according to Antec's warranty they only cover the actual unit, not any damage it causes, though in the two leaks I remember hearing about Corsair definitely took care of one of the guys and there was very little information on the other.

Either way I'd rather avoid having to think about what would happen and if antec/asetek would help me out or not if there was a leak. I'd rather just find out as much info as I can about the number of known leaks (just a handful of known leaks out of however many sold would be acceptable odds for me) as well as a some people to chime in who have run an asetek cooler 24/7 (or close to it) for a long time.


----------



## ruarcs30

Lol! I was mistaken it seems. When i talked to them, they sayed that if i have doesn't have anything to do whit the reason that there is a leak, they would cover it. But as you saied, they are not obliged to do it.

Have run mine 24/7 for 3 months, got a friend that have had it seens it was realeesed. I havn't actually heard of someone who has gotten a leak whitout modding the pump. Having it at "stock" I mean that it is almost imposible to get leak...IF you dont damage it somehow.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> Well technically according to Antec's warranty they only cover the actual unit, not any damage it causes, though in the two leaks I remember hearing about Corsair definitely took care of one of the guys and there was very little information on the other.
> Either way I'd rather avoid having to think about what would happen and if antec/asetek would help me out or not if there was a leak. I'd rather just find out as much info as I can about the number of known leaks (just a handful of known leaks out of however many sold would be acceptable odds for me) as well as a some people to chime in who have run an asetek cooler 24/7 (or close to it) for a long time.


Dude go for it, they are pretty solid unit's, major improvement over the h70 design. Get one, its only $49.95 now, it wont leak and you wont regret it.









microcenter has them on sale, here: http://www.microcenter.com/single_product_results.phtml?product_id=0361180


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> Well technically according to Antec's warranty they only cover the actual unit, not any damage it causes, though in the two leaks I remember hearing about Corsair definitely took care of one of the guys and there was very little information on the other.
> Either way I'd rather avoid having to think about what would happen and if antec/asetek would help me out or not if there was a leak. I'd rather just find out as much info as I can about the number of known leaks (just a handful of known leaks out of however many sold would be acceptable odds for me) as well as a some people to chime in who have run an asetek cooler 24/7 (or close to it) for a long time.


VI. Local Law And Your Warranty
This warranty gives you specific legal rights. You may also have other rights granted under local law. These rights may vary.

How are you rights in your contry?

In norway I get 5 years warrenty, not only 3

Edit: In Norway, cell phones, computer parts etc have ALL 5 years warrenty, even if they only state 2 or 3 years. Not very many in norway know this, the law changed it 2009


----------



## juano

I appreciate all your opinions but I'm really looking for two things: Any leaks that people have heard of, and impressions of reliability from people that have run the cooler 24/7 for long periods of time. I understand that the odds of leaks are so small that they are insignificant to most of you and I'm not trying to say it's a bad cooler or that I expect it to leak. I think it's a good cooler and I'd imagine the chances of a leak are less than 0.1% but I'm trying to find out roughly what those odds are, if they are 2 known leaks out of all the units sold, 10 known leaks, 20 etc.

Thanks.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> I appreciate all your opinions but I'm really looking for two things: Any leaks that people have heard of, and impressions of reliability from people that have run the cooler 24/7 for long periods of time. I understand that the odds of leaks are so small that they are insignificant to most of you and I'm not trying to say it's a bad cooler or that I expect it to leak. I think it's a good cooler and I'd imagine the chances of a leak are less than 0.1% but I'm trying to find out roughly what those odds are, if they are 2 known leaks out of all the units sold, 10 known leaks, 20 etc.
> Thanks.


I was worried about the same thing as you, and googled, searched etc but couldnt find any numbers on leaks. Failure in pump etc is not that uncommon, but they just give you a new one. Leaks, as they sayed at my store, you can never be safe, but it is mutch more likely that your house get hit be lightning. If you dont put stress on the cables, and install it corectely, it is "impossible" to get leaks.

But i have sendt an mail, i want the exact number as well,hehe


----------



## ML241

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> I appreciate all your opinions but I'm really looking for two things: Any leaks that people have heard of, and impressions of reliability from people that have run the cooler 24/7 for long periods of time. I understand that the odds of leaks are so small that they are insignificant to most of you and I'm not trying to say it's a bad cooler or that I expect it to leak. I think it's a good cooler and I'd imagine the chances of a leak are less than 0.1% but I'm trying to find out roughly what those odds are, if they are 2 known leaks out of all the units sold, 10 known leaks, 20 etc.
> Thanks.


24 hours ago I was right where you are now, looking for info. I got the 620 last night and I cant be happier. I've tried 4 coolers in the past few months to keep my aging C2 955 cool and the 620 is by far the best in its price range.


----------



## mardon

Nah it was crazy loud, like a grinding noise could hear it from the next room and it was still loud!!


----------



## bmgjet

620 will be fine.
I used one for 6 months 24/7 when bit coins were worth mining.

If anything the 24/7 use would be better for it since your not getting some much thermal expansion because it will always be around the same temp.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Got my 620 yesterday! Running SOOO WELL on my GTX560!



I'll take 45C max on a GPU anyday. 35C in BF3...ha! yea! Love the build quality of the 620. So legit! Def worth it


----------



## TheBirdman74

Can anybody tell me which barbs / fittings I need to add the swiftech microres to the Kuhler 920/620 please?? It needs to fit the microres and then the tubing that would fit to the antec pump.

Give me some links or something or if anybody has any? I am all confused with the size, ID, 1/4 or 6mm or whatever i need.


----------



## juano

Well I got my answer and placed my order guys. This page on the Asetek website was all I needed to see to be reassured. If they are all tested via helium leak detection before they leave the factory than that should remove all but the tiniest of chances of a leak out of the box. Then the fact that the tubing is designed for low permeability and the entire unit is tested for durability and claims to be rated for over 5 years of 24/7 use makes me feel much safer in using these. The Asetek representative I wrote too also mentioned that their coolers are now used in very expensive mission critical servers, so I suppose they are good enough for my folding rig. I would suggest adding the Asetek reliability page to the OP of this thread as I'm sure that would be information potential buyers would like to know. Thanks for the opinions and information from people here and especially from Asetek.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> Well I got my answer and placed my order guys. This page on the Asetek website was all I needed to see to be reassured. If they are all tested via helium leak detection before they leave the factory than that should remove all but the tiniest of chances of a leak out of the box. Then the fact that the tubing is designed for low permeability and the entire unit is tested for durability and claims to be rated for over 5 years of 24/7 use makes me feel much safer in using these. The Asetek representative I wrote too also mentioned that their coolers are now used in very expensive mission critical servers, so I suppose they are good enough for my folding rig. I would suggest adding the Asetek reliability page to the OP of this thread as I'm sure that would be information potential buyers would like to know. Thanks for the opinions and information from people here and especially from Asetek.


Just remeber that a leak has occured if I am not misstaken. Think to remeber reading about that, and ruined the gpu, and he got an new gpu and cooler. Not sure if that was given to him by the store where he bought the items, or by antec them self, but my impression was that anetc was the one who covered it. Same whit corsair, heard of them actually covered damage done by leaks, if I am not misstaken there as well,hehe.

Some complain about the sound they make, but if 30 db isnt an issue it is a great cooler


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> Well I got my answer and placed my order guys. This page on the Asetek website was all I needed to see to be reassured. If they are all tested via helium leak detection before they leave the factory than that should remove all but the tiniest of chances of a leak out of the box. Then the fact that the tubing is designed for low permeability and the entire unit is tested for durability and claims to be rated for over 5 years of 24/7 use makes me feel much safer in using these. The Asetek representative I wrote too also mentioned that their coolers are now used in very expensive mission critical servers, so I suppose they are good enough for my folding rig. I would suggest adding the Asetek reliability page to the OP of this thread as I'm sure that would be information potential buyers would like to know. Thanks for the opinions and information from people here and especially from Asetek.


they said they took out all the air but there is still quite a lot of air inside


----------



## reaver83

they take alot of air out, but they do not turn the pumps on, therefore the pump itself has a air pocket. The litte bit of air in the system is good though, allows for expansion of the liquid, due to a lack of a reservoir for that. What it is not good for is mounting the radiator in wierd positions, say, laying flat on the floor of a case with the barbs sticking straight up.... that may air-lock your pump in the CPU block.

Personally, I want my radiator as high up in the case as I can get it, and as far away from the motherboard as I can, that way by chance if any air goes through the system, the radiator traps it, not the pump. Thought about cutting the top of my case and building a shroud to go over it, so I could mount the radiator outside my case. I'm kindda missing my old Antec NSK 4450B case, the top panel slid off, then both side panels slid up. Sadly though, it wasn't up to modern computer specs.


----------



## Papas

Just picked up a kuhler 620 @ my work. $67 after tax. Gonna install it tomorrow.


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> they take alot of air out, but they do not turn the pumps on, therefore the pump itself has a air pocket. The litte bit of air in the system is good though, allows for expansion of the liquid, due to a lack of a reservoir for that. What it is not good for is mounting the radiator in wierd positions, say, laying flat on the floor of a case with the barbs sticking straight up.... that may air-lock your pump in the CPU block.
> 
> Personally, I want my radiator as high up in the case as I can get it, and as far away from the motherboard as I can, that way by chance if any air goes through the system, the radiator traps it, not the pump. Thought about cutting the top of my case and building a shroud to go over it, so I could mount the radiator outside my case. I'm kindda missing my old Antec NSK 4450B case, the top panel slid off, then both side panels slid up. Sadly though, it wasn't up to modern computer specs.


they could have added a silicone (or w/e durable and flexible material) chamber that does all the expanding and contracting.
i hope all the next gen self-contained water cooling systems will have zero air inside...


----------



## reaver83

I don't think they will ever be 100% w/o air pockets; that would require turning the pump on, which takes time to power up every pump that goes through production. The whole point of these things is a low cost solution to liquid cool. Now, what I would 2nd is a possible fill plug being installed on like the radiator or something like that, but that would only be for a long time use, warrantee void if open thing. This would allow people to check to make sure it is full. Either that, or a small reservoir to make them servicable. Kindda like something that could be mounted either above it or maybe in a 5.25" drive bay... simly to make sure there aren't any leaks, or levels dropping to low.


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> I don't think they will ever be 100% w/o air pockets; that would require turning the pump on, which takes time to power up every pump that goes through production. The whole point of these things is a low cost solution to liquid cool. Now, what I would 2nd is a possible fill plug being installed on like the radiator or something like that, but that would only be for a long time use, warrantee void if open thing. This would allow people to check to make sure it is full. Either that, or a small reservoir to make them servicable. Kindda like something that could be mounted either above it or maybe in a 5.25" drive bay... simly to make sure there aren't any leaks, or levels dropping to low.


yeah but i honestly wouldnt complain if theres a little bit of maintenance like a built-in reservoir on the radiator that catches all the bubbles.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolwaters*
> 
> they could have added a silicone (or w/e durable and flexible material) chamber that does all the expanding and contracting.
> i hope all the next gen self-contained water cooling systems will have zero air inside...


E-mail them and tell them what you think! You never know, perhaps the next generation comes like that


----------



## reaver83

Thats actually not a bad idea. Alot of redesigned things come from customer feedback of the original Item. Some companies even pay you if they use your idea


----------



## ruarcs30

Yes, I know. I wasn't only joking,hehe! They have also sayed they want custumor feedback, so it is likely that they will do what you sugest IF it is an upgrad and it doesnt cost to mutch. Money talks


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Yes, I know. I wasn't only joking,hehe! They have also sayed they want custumor feedback, so it is likely that they will do what you sugest IF it is an upgrad and it doesnt cost to mutch. Money talks


the types of upgrades that will make this perfect will cost quite a bit of money.
durable silicone doesnt come cheap









i got a loop in one of my computers and i know how much it contracts. had too open up my fill port once in a while so the tubes dont collapse on itself.

maybe they can add a mini Accordion design on their tubes.









but a built in reservoir on their radiator seems like the best option in reducing their RMA due to large amounts of air bubbles trapped in there.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolwaters*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but a built in reservoir on their radiator seems like the best option in reducing their RMA due to large amounts of air bubbles trapped in there.


Yeah, they have got tons of RMA's due to the pump getting air locked, I know of alot of people that turn it on, hear how loud the pump is, then send it right back. They none realised, hey, takes time for it to get quiet.


----------



## Zerodameaon

I have been thinking about getting a 920 for my Raven RV02 to replace my Cooler Master Hyper 212. I sit at 55C full load on folding. Is the 920 going to give me better temps then that or will it be a downgrade performance wise?


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Yeah, they have got tons of RMA's due to the pump getting air locked, I know of alot of people that turn it on, hear how loud the pump is, then send it right back. They none realised, hey, takes time for it to get quiet.


they should have giving a warning in the guide about that.

but i ran mine for over 24hrs and there is zero change to the ticking it made. my H60 made zero noise (besides the props whirling) took a risk and tried antec but got disappointing..


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolwaters*
> 
> they should have giving a warning in the guide about that.
> but i ran mine for over 24hrs and there is zero change to the ticking it made. my H60 made zero noise (besides the props whirling) took a risk and tried antec but got disappointing..


24 hours should be enough for the pump to get working prop. But did you turn on the pump and shake it? All i needed to do was hitt it whit my finger a couple of times and it went silent. Or at least i consider it silent,hehe. It is almost impossible to hear the pump due to the other fan.


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> 24 hours should be enough for the pump to get working prop. But did you turn on the pump and shake it? All i needed to do was hitt it whit my finger a couple of times and it went silent. Or at least i consider it silent,hehe. It is almost impossible to hear the pump due to the other fan.


i did everything. shook it as hard as i can many times (the pump and the radiator like they said) even turned it in every possible angle.

i have a custom loop and i know that in time all the bubbles will purge into the reservoir but this one didnt.
it might have been a defective impeller because of the noise it made.

yeah i even tried "hitting" it just enough to give it a jolt but nothing helped. after 24hrs of leaving it on i gave up and returned it to amazon.
but i gave them another chance by asking for a replacement not my money back.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolwaters*
> 
> i did everything. shook it as hard as i can many times (the pump and the radiator like they said) even turned it in every possible angle.
> i have a custom loop and i know that in time all the bubbles will purge into the reservoir but this one didnt.
> it might have been a defective impeller because of the noise it made.
> yeah i even tried "hitting" it just enough to give it a jolt but nothing helped. after 24hrs of leaving it on i gave up and returned it to amazon.
> but i gave them another chance by asking for a replacement not my money back.


I built my friends PC with one of these, shook my radiator a bit before fitting and it was about a couple of days testing overclocks in Prime 95 until the pump was completely silent, the only noise comes from the fan now. You should RMA the unit.


----------



## von rottes

Just bought a Kuhler 620 today(well yesterday) at microcenter and installed it an hour or so ago after work...
Already I'm loving it

A quick run in P95 and I only reached about 46C Vs the 55-56C with the RCX-Z2 Fixing to play some games to see what that does


----------



## mardon

Ok my Antec H20 920 came and the pump was broken, so I RMA'd the unit and they are now out of stock. They have issued a refund..

Now the dilema. I purchased the cooler before i'd actually tested the CPU. Obviously I dont want to stress test for too long on the stock intel cooler but the chip can reach 4.3ghz on around 1.28v and 4.5ghz on 1.31v. This is without changing anything other than the multi and the voltage so i'm guessing the chips a fairly good one. I also set the chip to 1.5v and 50x multi to see if it would boot. It did and was perfectly usable for the 10 mins I tried it (obviously not wanting to kill the chip I turned it down after this time and didn't stress test).

So now I know i'm not gonna need crazy voltages for 4.6/4.8ghz 24/7 overclock is it worth getting the 920 or should I just get the 620 and two scythe gentle typhoons (connected to a fan controller) and be done with it? The only time I think the 920 would be a real benefit is at 5ghz and its doubtful I could stand the fans at 100% if I needed to keep high temps in check resulting from the voltages.

So I can afford it but is it really worth getting or should I save a little cash?

£72.69 620 inc x2 Scythe Gentle Typhoon (and use spare fan in my case)

or

£95.28 inc x1 Scythe Gentle Typhoon (need a fan for my case)


----------



## juano

I haven't used both of the coolers like some here may have but I can say that sounds like a whooooole lot of savings to me for what shouldn't be a huge difference in temps once they both have push pull set up on them. I would go with the 620 and 2 GTs.


----------



## theajz

I've got the antec 620 and have a couple questions. Is it possible with this fan to connect a second 120mm fan on the other side to push/pull air? It looks like the screw slots are there for it but no additional screws? Any input/ideas? I do have a spare 120mm fan just no screws :/

Also, I plugged the 3 pin female connector to the cpu 4 pin slot on my asus p8z68-v board and have heard that the auto fan function on this board may mess up the fan/pump and that I should instead plug it into the power fan connector instead for full power use, is this true?

Thanks in Advance?


----------



## mardon

^^ Just use two screws on opposite corners on each fan out of the original 4 that came with it.

Really really dont know what to do. Chances are the 2500k is so powerful i'm not really going to need to run it and therefore the cooler at full tilt all that often. But I still kinda want it. Especially since the 620 with two silent typhoon's is nearly the same price as just the cooler. :/


----------



## theajz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mardon*
> 
> ^^ Just use two screws on opposite corners on each fan out of the original 4 that came with it.


Wow, I feel like a noob LOL Thanks, Hopefully just the two screws on the other side keep it tight.

And how do you suggest them set up? exhuast both? or one intake and one out take?


----------



## juano

You want them blowing in the same direction or "push/pull" as it's referred to.

like this:

Code:



Code:


Fan---->>>>>RAD Fan----->>>>>

the way you suggested the fans would be fighting each other, this is what you don't want:

Code:



Code:


Fan---->>>>>>RAD<<<<<<----Fan

you also do not want this:

Code:



Code:


<<<<<---- Fan RAD Fan ------>>>>


----------



## mardon

Sod it im getting the 920 unless anyone has any links that show the difference isn't that great?


----------



## juano

Here you go. With the stock fans the 920 was 4C better than the 620, and with the same fan used for both coolers the difference was only 1C. Keep in mind the 920 had an extra fan during both of those tests. The 920 just doesn't appear to be worth the extra 30% that it would cost you.


----------



## theajz

Juano thanks for the help. Another question,currently the 620 is keeping my i5 2500k stock at 22C is that a good temp or do I have a defective unit?

Tried the double fan solution and with only two screws the fan made a loud raddle sound


----------



## Zerodameaon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theajz*
> 
> Juano thanks for the help. Another question,currently the 620 is keeping my i5 2500k stock at 22C is that a good temp or do I have a defective unit?
> Tried the double fan solution and with only two screws the fan made a loud raddle sound


That's a awesome temp unless your computer is outside in Alaska at this time of year.

Just picked up a 920 for my Silverstone Raven 02 setup, have it set up in the top exhaust fan port. I am idleing about 4C higher then my Hyper 212+ but at the same time when I am folding on both my cpu and gpu i set only about 2C higher but a lot quieter. This is on a I7 2600K at 4.12ghz. What remains to be seen though is how this will do on a 12+hr folding bender. Ill update then.


----------



## juano

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerodameaon*
> 
> That's a awesome temp unless your computer is outside in Alaska at this time of year.
> Just picked up a 920 for my Silverstone Raven 02 setup, have it set up in the top exhaust fan port. I am idleing about 4C higher then my Hyper 212+ but at the same time when I am folding on both my cpu and gpu i set only about 2C higher but a lot quieter. This is on a I7 2600K at 4.12ghz. What remains to be seen though is how this will do on a 12+hr folding bender. Ill update then.


Hey a folder!









Check out our folding section here if you haven't already and feel free to let me know if you need any folding help.


----------



## Zerodameaon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *juano*
> 
> Hey a folder!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Check out our folding section here if you haven't already and feel free to let me know if you need any folding help.


I found out about V7 client in there. Its so much nicer and my PPD has raised up a few k. I am about 11k off of hitting one million for the team I started then I plan on switching over to OCN to get a million. All good stuff about folding aside I do kinda want that millionaire badge lol.
I do have to say one thing though is this thing is quiet in everyday use. At least it has been for me and I have been pushing it. Then again maybe its all about what case you have. The Raven 2s are a beast.


----------



## juano

Yep I agree that the Ravens are a beast (check out my sig).









v7 client isn't bad but if you'd like to try and maximize your PPD and efficiency then I would recommend some changes. This post of mine is just about exactly what I would recommend for you, except I wrote that one for a guy with a 2500k so for you the only change would be when I tell him to change the number of cores from 8 to 4 in the VM, you would just not make that change and leave it at 8 cores. These two changes of a VM for the CPU and the advmethods WUs for the GPU will make a huge difference in your PPD, the switch is fairly easy (especially with the instructions I wrote there) and I'd be more than willing to help you if you need it.


----------



## mardon

Decided to no go out this weekend and put the money I would have spent on beer making up the difference between the 620 and the 920.

Its going to be connected to a fan controller so I can find a happy medium between cooling and noise for everyday use and then ramp it up when gaming etc. I'm going to mount it to exhaust out the top with a scythe gentle typoon providing cool air from what would usually be the exaust vent at the back of the case. I also have two 120mm side mounted fans and then another at the front bringing cool air in over the hard drive. Is this a good idea or do I need to swap another case fan to exhaust?


----------



## James666

I have finally got a 620 that works now (third time lucky) so now I am going to get a better fan as the stock one is far too loud. However I can't decide what fan to get. At the moment I'm looking at the Noctua NF-F12, the Apache Black and the Viper. I would prefer a PWM fan as I don't have a fan controller and my mobo cannot control fan speed on a 3 pin header (I can only set it to 50%, 75% and 100%).
Which would be the best choice out of those 3 fans and has anyone got any other suggestions?
Thanks, James


----------



## juano

I haven't heard anything about the other two, but I have the NF F12 and it's pretty awesome.


----------



## James666

Are you running push/pull and how much did it reduce your temps by?


----------



## juano

It's not on an Antec, it's on my D14 and I didn't test it against the P12 that the D14 came with.


----------



## James666

Oh ok. I've seen a lot about the 1850rpm Gentle Typhoons as well. They're only 3 pin fans but loads of people seem to be saying that they can barely hear them, even when they're at full speed. There's too much choice!


----------



## theajz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerodameaon*
> 
> That's a awesome temp unless your computer is outside in Alaska at this time of year.
> Just picked up a 920 for my Silverstone Raven 02 setup, have it set up in the top exhaust fan port. I am idleing about 4C higher then my Hyper 212+ but at the same time when I am folding on both my cpu and gpu i set only about 2C higher but a lot quieter. This is on a I7 2600K at 4.12ghz. What remains to be seen though is how this will do on a 12+hr folding bender. Ill update then.


I'm curious to see how cool my processor wil stay when I oc my 2500k to 4.5. Any ideas on what a good temp for that type of processor with my 620 will be? Since right now it's at 20c, I'm hoping 30-40c is this realistic?


----------



## Coolwaters

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theajz*
> 
> I'm curious to see how cool my processor wil stay when I oc my 2500k to 4.5. Any ideas on what a good temp for that type of processor with my 620 will be? Since right now it's at 20c, I'm hoping 30-40c is this realistic?


it greatly depends on how much voltage you need to get to 4.5ghz.

but yes you should be able to do it easily with the 620. might need 2 good fans push and pull.


----------



## Papas

finally installed my 620 today and getting some nice temps. i had a ocz heatsink on there and was getting 34C at idle(at stock) and now im getting 26C. not bad for only $60.


----------



## adi518

finally came to install the gelid silent 12 pwm fans + bunch of other stuff and probably finish off my rig.

I must say the fans are doing a pretty good job and really run at their nominal speeds (750-1500 rpm). Also it looks like I don't really have to fiddle with the BIOS, the pump is conveniently plugged to system fan 1 header (close to cpu power connection) and runs @ 1400 rpm while the PWM settings remain on automatic and it's working a treat !


















Btw, anyone knows the exact type of screws needed for the radiator? I got me 4 screws but they're not as nice as the stock ones.


----------



## Zerodameaon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *theajz*
> 
> I'm curious to see how cool my processor wil stay when I oc my 2500k to 4.5. Any ideas on what a good temp for that type of processor with my 620 will be? Since right now it's at 20c, I'm hoping 30-40c is this realistic?


Its really dependent on how much voltage as state above but also how much air flow do you have through your case. When i over clock i tend to not pump my voltage up very much, I use a mix of dynamic overclocking to hit a certain point then I push it just a tad farther. Then again this is on a 2600k which is more then enough for my needs at stock clocking. I don't have any experience with the 2500ks. If your room stays cool and your case has good flow i don't suspect you would be at idle much above 30c. Buy it from a place with a good return policy, if you don't like it or it doesn't meet your expectations and the retailer doesn't honor returns then they are not a store that needs our business.


----------



## mardon

Well.. colour me impressed! After my first 920 was DOA I was toying with the idea of a 620 with x2 Scythe gentle typhoons. In the end I decided just to go for the 920.
Since I had installed one previously and found it to be a complete PITA when still mounted in the case I took my motherboard out and installed it that way. Far easier and I got a much better install without the TIM getting messed up. First off I tried plugging the fans into my fan controller (30w per channel) unfortunately even though the controller can control fans down to 0rpm it couldn't keep them at a low enough RPM for them to be silent. At first I though this must just be how they sounded. Anyway I then tried them with the software and they really are silent!

I tried a quick blast of intel burn and 4.5ghz and it didn't pass 55C!! Very happy with that.
I then bumped the voltage and set it to 4.8ghz (first try at that speed as well). It passed 10 runs on low setting of intel burn with the temps being fairly similar. Highest being 60C I think, (my room is cold and the case has great airflow). I then did a 3D Mark 06 run and got 30400 points which I was happy with! Finally I set Intel burn test to max and set it to run.. it BSOD 101. So guessing slightly more vcore is needed. Also im running 1.65 ram at 1.55 on stock speeds and timing so may bump that up to rule it out. But all in all very very impressed. Max setting is nuts but its not really needed for everyday use. I set custom profile and had played a few games and it never got that audible but really kept temps in check.
So next up try to get 4.8ghz stable and then go for the big 5ghz


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> finally came to install the gelid silent 12 pwm fans + bunch of other stuff and probably finish off my rig.
> I must say the fans are doing a pretty good job and really run at their nominal speeds (750-1500 rpm). Also it looks like I don't really have to fiddle with the BIOS, the pump is conveniently plugged to system fan 1 header (close to cpu power connection) and runs @ 1400 rpm while the PWM settings remain on automatic and it's working a treat !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, anyone knows the exact type of screws needed for the radiator? I got me 4 screws but they're not as nice as the stock ones.


Just use some screws that fits, should not be hard to find! I dont like to use 2 on eatch side, i like 4 on eatch side so i just found some olde screws that fitts,case solved:thumb:

Edit: Just be sure that you use the exact same size of the screws. You shouldnt have to force them in. You prob. know but you never know


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mardon*
> 
> Sod it im getting the 920 unless anyone has any links that show the difference isn't that great?


I had a 620 originally then upgraded to a 920.
With the same fans and both lapped the difference was only 3C, But the 920 does have the advantage of better fan control, And it takes longer to reach max temp.

With out the 920 lapped the 620 was exactly the same (lapped, same fans)


----------



## TheBirdman74

Hey, Can anybody tell me which side port is the In and winch side is the out?

I was guessing when you hold the Kuhler with the logo towards you and the barbs / tubes facing bottom, the tube on the left is the intake / in?


----------



## K62-RIG

Hey guys

Last night I changed out the corsair fans on my 920 and put some xigmatek 120mm white LED fans on 1500rpm (3pin). Yeah I know that without PWM fans I cannot use the chill control software but I tell ya what, It is much much better (and a bit of bling inside the case with the LEDs are nice too







)


----------



## bmgjet

The top line is the from pump to radiator.(hot side)
Bottom line is from radiator back to pump (cold side)


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The top line is the from pump to radiator.(hot side)
> Bottom line is from radiator back to pump (cold side)


Thanks bmgjet







I am modding a 620 with a swiftech res. This should come in handy. + Reps


----------



## craney

Really tempted to try one of these 620 coolers as i want to get rid of the big ugly looking air cooler in my new switch case. Im just a bit put off by the reviews on installing it as they seem to say its quite tricky and that the plastic base can snap quite easilly. Could anyone put my mind at ease?


----------



## ML241

Don't know if it's been posted but... Its in store only

http://www.frys.com/product/6568373?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

If I wasn't between paydays I'd get 4.


----------



## navyviper

i have a h620 and i put a extra 120mm fan on it to get pull push
works great cpu temp 27c normal on bf3 34c









its better then my zalman 9500led thats sound like a Vacuum Cleaner


----------



## Papas

Need some help...my pump is really, really quiet and temps are now 37c+ at idle.....thats worse than my old OCZ cooler. Starting to think the pump is dead as i hear nothing from it and when i feel it it has no vibration.....any ideas?


----------



## sebar

Craney, The 620 really is not that difficult to install, but it can be a bit tricky the first time. I have removed and installed the cooler several times now trying to find the best location inside my small matx case. The first install was hard because I had the support screws too tight so it was difficult to rotate the pump housing into place. I have not had any trouble with the plastic base supports; I have seen some posts that say they had trouble and that they cracked. Those people must have been putting a ton of torque on the mounting screws for that to have happened. When you are tightening the screws just make sure they are snug, there is no need to tighten them so tight. The 620 is a very good product, I have also been in touch with customer support with general questions and they responded back to me within a few hours and even responded back to a follow-up question within an hour.

The only advise I would give is to invest into some quieter fans.

Great performing product + Great customer support + Great warranty = Very happy customer


----------



## reaver83

hey guys, recon it's cold in my room? this is with my GPU OC'ed to 890core/1780shader/1000memory*2, and it's at 24C

Note the RPM of the fan.... it's freakin -2C outside, and clear skies -_-


----------



## mardon

Well after spending some more time with the 920 I really really love it! Highest temp i've seen all weekend was 72C and that was after hours of stress testing on Intel Burn test. On the custom profile its silent day to day and hardly audable when gaming.

I dont get people who change the fans out? Why would you do this? They are pretty much silent and although loud on extreme the PFM can't be matched by a lower RPM fan? If there are better fans out there i'd love to know about them as I would invest. I had a look around and unless you up the RPM there's not any better options out there?
Or are people looking for lower idle temps and loosing the extreme performance?


----------



## Zerodameaon

I know the sound levels are bogus but my ChillControl doesn't have anything but a green bar, no db or any of that stuff. Did something not install right?


----------



## viper522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mardon*
> 
> Well after spending some more time with the 920 I really really love it! Highest temp i've seen all weekend was 72C and that was after hours of stress testing on Intel Burn test. On the custom profile its silent day to day and hardly audable when gaming.


You might get some better numbers with tweaking. Are you using good thermal compound? What's your fan ramp start/max values? I top about 59C on an i7-2600K/4.4GHz folding in Linux with 8 cores enabled, about 26C ambient.


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Hey, Can anybody tell me which side port is the In and winch side is the out?
> I was guessing when you hold the Kuhler with the logo towards you and the barbs / tubes facing bottom, the tube on the left is the intake / in?


Is yours running? You can benchmark it and just hold a tube when its on and you'll feel the temperature difference on which is the out and which is the in. Not positive on which is which, I'm in class. Why do you need to know?


----------



## mardon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> You might get some better numbers with tweaking. Are you using good thermal compound? What's your fan ramp start/max values? I top about 59C on an i7-2600K/4.4GHz folding in Linux with 8 cores enabled, about 26C ambient.


Running the stock compound. I was getting much lower temps earlier in the day the radiator in my room was blazing out hot air not far from the PC. Also my VCCIO was too high which creates more heat. Lowering that should bring me back down. Usually in the high 50's low 60's when stress testing.

I have my ramp temp at 35C and Max at 55 I think. Will have to check though.

Thinking once I have the overclock stable of lapping the CPU and the 920 as well as adding new thermal compound. But is the 2/4C drop worth loosing the chip warrenty??


----------



## viper522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mardon*
> 
> Running the stock compound. I was getting much lower temps earlier in the day the radiator in my room was blazing out hot air not far from the PC. Also my VCCIO was too high which creates more heat. Lowering that should bring me back down. Usually in the high 50's low 60's when stress testing.
> I have my ramp temp at 35C and Max at 55 I think. Will have to check though.
> Thinking once I have the overclock stable of lapping the CPU and the 920 as well as adding new thermal compound. But is the 2/4C drop worth loosing the chip warrenty??


I've not lapped anything. The stock compound is not bad at all, but once you pull it off you'll have to reapply something, might as well use the best you can get.

The way I approached the fan speed graph was to play with the settings until I found an RPM where I just start to hear the fans - about 1600rpm for my setup. Then I tweak the max number in the control panel until, at 100% load (I prefer real-world tests of things I actually do, like F[email protected]), the fan RPM settles near that speed. Then I check my temps and evaluate if the numbers are to my liking. In my config, that results in 59/60C, 35C water temp at 26C ambient. I like it very much. Remember that the numbers that ChillControl is giving you in the fan ramp control are for the water temp, not CPU temp.

When gaming, the GPU puts off some heat and the fans pick up the pace a little, but the GPU makes far more noise and I don't notice the Kuhler at all.


----------



## mardon

Thanks for the tips. I set mine up when using prime so I guess I really want to set everything to trigger a few degree's lower than when using prime since it stresses the PC more than most applications ever would.

As said though, very happy with it. I had a 1st gen Antec with my E8400 and it wasn't that great cooling wise but was really good quality. This seems to have both covered!


----------



## reaver83

@mardon

Yeah, I'm personally using Antec Formula 6 Nano Diamond, cause I could find it local, and it was cheaper than having AS5 shipped, and it's a 40g Tube, as opposed to AS5's 9g tube. Staples, $9.99







That, and the temps I posted were at Idle, with my room at a ambient 35F... No heater in my room.


----------



## ruarcs30

Using 1.7v i was able to hit 3.9GHz on all 4 cores. The temp didnt go past 44celcius. ( the actual cpu temp, i have no idea of what the cores are)

Ambient temprature was -11 celcius.... Norway,hehe. I just had to try it









A question: Anyone who could recomend 2 fans to`get to the 620?


----------



## mardon

So overclock tweaked and stable. Room was around 23C, While gaming max temp using 920 was 52C and benchingn 67C. Happy with that









4.8Ghz 1.4Vcore


----------



## viper522

Nice numbers for 4.8 mardon!


----------



## Papas

Have to return my 620 today. confirmed that even though it was plugged in, the pump would not work. ohh, well. guess ill wait a little and order a 920.


----------



## viper522

That's alright, the 920 is where it's at if you're running 4 cores and a good overclock, or 4 cores and 4 more HTs at high load. Good luck with your replacement Papas!


----------



## Davayy

I seem to be the only person super happy with a 620 haha . Mine works a treat








 There it is if anyone cares, push/pull.


----------



## viper522

Nothing wrong with a 620 at all. Especially when you add another fan.


----------



## reaver83

Here's a thought that has been running through my head. Would adding a Higher CFM fan on the pull side draw more heat from the radiator? just been a thought. I know that pushing air through it forces air out, but if theres a even bigger force sucking it out, Wouldn't that help? Just been a idea I had.


----------



## mardon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> Nice numbers for 4.8 mardon!


Thanks going for 5ghz at the weekend. My guess is 1.46Vcore may be needed but its nice to have a cooler which I know can stand up to the OC. Every other PC i've ever had before this one heat was always a concern. I'm looking at having three OC settings max frequency at stock volts, 4.8ghz (gaming) and 5ghz benching and gaming depending on voltage.

I have mine configured to blow hot air out the case but I have 3 120mm fans in close proximity feeding it with cool air. I'm guessing I wont see a gain by reversing the air flow??


----------



## viper522

I tried to reverse flow, but honestly my GTX 570 preferred normal flow. Otherwise it was eating the Kuhler's exhaust which is above ambient, thus giving me higher GPU temps. If you have a case that segments the Kuhler from the GPU, it might work out.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> I tried to reverse flow, but honestly my GTX 570 preferred normal flow. Otherwise it was eating the Kuhler's exhaust which is above ambient, thus giving me higher GPU temps. If you have a case that segments the Kuhler from the GPU, it might work out.


Say, a reverse ATX Case that would put the GPU higher than the CPU, like the Lian-Li A05N


----------



## LegendMask

my two attempts on getting the lowest CPU temperature possible with my Antec 920 (_AMD 965 Black Edition 3.4GHz_)

Overclocked to 3.8Ghz

*14C*



stock and using all Cool N' Quite option in bios with 1.25v (not a bit difference)

*11C*



and by the way could I join the club?


----------



## vedaire

hmm I think something is wrong here got my 620 today and so far its at 48c load and my old xigmatek aegir kept my temp at near 43c load not sure whats up with this.


----------



## reaver83

Look through the forum and see if there is a possiblity of 1) low power to the pump, 2) proper config, 3) are you running Push/Pull or just push, or just pull?


----------



## Mknopfler

Hi!!

I would like to join the club.
Kühler h20 920 + 2x Cooler Master SickleFlow (rehobus)
Pump on rehobus @1900rpm (very sweet) I think speed reading is not real (ChillControl)
50º max Prime95 i7 [email protected],4Ghz 1,288v


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## viper522

spectacular build


----------



## TheBirdman74

Heads Up, Fry's has the antec kuhler 620 on sale for 39.99!.









http://www.frys.com/product/6568373?site=frysecampaign


----------



## tlminh

Hi Guys, my 620 is currently getting shipped to me

I've read that the stock fan that comes with the 620 is not quiet and can get loud at full load.

Question,

What are my fan options if I decide the stock fan is too loud?

I have a CM Storm Scout case, the rear fan is 120mmx25, rated at 1200 RPM and 44 CFM.
Can that be used instead?

Sorry for being a newb

thanks


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlminh*
> 
> Hi Guys, my 620 is currently getting shipped to me
> I've read that the stock fan that comes with the 620 is not quiet and can get loud at full load.
> Question,
> What are my fan options if I decide the stock fan is too loud?
> I have a CM Storm Scout case, the rear fan is 120mmx25, rated at 1200 RPM and 44 CFM.
> Can that be used instead?
> Sorry for being a newb
> thanks


Stock fan is quite enough, I have fitted my friends 620 and also bought one for myself to fit it to my GTX465. I have it running at 100% and I would call it whisper quite from 2 feet away. First see if its quite enough for you at auto fan settings, you can always fork out cash later if you dont like it and want more quite fans. Keep in mind that fan pushes some 80 + CFM


----------



## bogey1337

Hi guys! Just bought my first liquid cooling ever. Got the 620.







Im hearing an audible clicking/fish tank like sound from it. Ive closed my case(an antec 300) and i can faintly hear it when my room is silent. Is that normal? Or am i doing something wrong? Ive checked the interwebz and some say its supposed to be inaudible when you close the case. Something to the with the some air trapped inside or something. Im completely new to this and i appreciate any feedback and suggestions.

Thanks in advance.


----------



## reaver83

How are the tubes of your radiator positioned? Pump? if the tubes on the radiator ar at the top, you may hear clicking until the pump primes, my guess. Try laying you computer flat on the ground, with the pump parrallel to the ground and runing your computer for like 10 mins or so. Move the computer while it is off. This is just a test to see if the noise get's quieter.

I personally couldn't hear mine because I have a High CFM fan that is as loud as the Antec fans at 75%, so if mine does make noises, I can't hear it.


----------



## reaver83

Alrighty! back in Business. I've been laying low on OCing my computer due to running 8 GB of Mix-matched RAM, so I've been keeping my Clocks stock for stability. I've been recording **** low temps on this thing WAY too long, lol. Got me 4x4GB Kingston HyperX Genesis DDR3 1600 coming in the mail! Time to set this thing "On fiah!!" As Fox McCloud says.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bogey1337*
> 
> Hi guys! Just bought my first liquid cooling ever. Got the 620.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im hearing an audible clicking/fish tank like sound from it. Ive closed my case(an antec 300) and i can faintly hear it when my room is silent. Is that normal? Or am i doing something wrong? Ive checked the interwebz and some say its supposed to be inaudible when you close the case. Something to the with the some air trapped inside or something. Im completely new to this and i appreciate any feedback and suggestions.
> Thanks in advance.


I have been reading up on this and that happens less if you have the pump tubes on the bottom. but anyway before you install the thing shake the radiator and then let the pump run for a few hrs - days. its the air thats trapped in. Pretty soon it will become quite


----------



## bogey1337

Pump tubes at the bottom now. Shaked it a little bit, reseated and it seems to be quieter now. I guess ill just leave it for now and see how it goes. Thanks guys.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bogey1337*
> 
> Pump tubes at the bottom now. Shaked it a little bit, reseated and it seems to be quieter now. I guess ill just leave it for now and see how it goes. Thanks guys.


In bios, did you turn of the settings conserning cpu fan? They need to be disabled, or else the pump speed is lowered to the point where it doesnt get enough power you might say, and you get alittle cliking sound.

If using hwinfo,what does your cpu fan says? It should stay on 1400rpm.. And then the speed of the fan adjust after heat


----------



## bogey1337

Ive set it to full on. Ive read that it could cause problems as well. Its hovering at 1500 rpm right now. Doesnt go higher than that though. Even on load.







You think this should go away in time?


----------



## ruarcs30

The pump is running at the right speed then.
When running it,try hitting the pump whit your finger,not to hard mind!

I think the sound will dissapear after some hours of prime max heat. Did whit mine anyway.
You should not be able to hear the pump unless putting your ear 10cm from it. The noice from the fan is covering the pump completely


----------



## bogey1337

I see.. Ill try to stress it as a i go to sleep. Thanks much! I appreciate the help. Will post back for updates.
+rep


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bogey1337*
> 
> I see.. Ill try to stress it as a i go to sleep. Thanks much! I appreciate the help. Will post back for updates.
> +rep


I hope it work! Im very pleased whit my cooler.
But
Any other noticed that a pull is better than a push?
I thought it was the other way around,but im getting better temps whit pull. Im using push/pull, but i was experimenting and was alittle supprised.


----------



## Zerodameaon

Time to get some quieter fans for my 920. Folding at bigadv at 4.5GHz and I start seeing seeing those higher temps around 60c. Quieter but more powerful PMWs.


----------



## BWG

Guys, do you think these will do better than the stock fans?



Model
Brand
Scythe
Model
SY1225SL12SH
Spec
Type
"Slipstream" Case Fan
Compatibility
Case
Fan Size
120mm
Bearing Type
Sleeve
RPM
1900 ±10% RPM
Air Flow
110.31 CFM
Noise Level
37.00 dBA
Power Connector
3-pin (3-pin to 4pin adapter included)
Color
Black
Physical Spec
Dimensions
120 x 120 x 25mm


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG*
> 
> Guys, do you think these will do better than the stock fans?


3-pin fans cannot be controlled by Antec Chill Control, nor any PWM 4-pin plug. It will spin wide open all the time. At least 37 dBA is fairly quiet.


----------



## Zerodameaon

Its really annoying how Newegg and most other places like that don't have a option to narrow it down to PMW fans.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Damn it. I got my 620 and it has started to make a weird rattling sound now all of a sudden, its coming from the pump, I had it turned on for the past 2 hrs jumping an old PSU, while the noise has gone down a bit, t he thing wont stop the rattle! I shook the rad a lot of times, not helping. my friend has one and his one makes zero noise. what should I do?


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Damn it. I got my 620 and it has started to make a weird rattling sound now all of a sudden, its coming from the pump, I had it turned on for the past 2 hrs jumping an old PSU, while the noise has gone down a bit, t he thing wont stop the rattle! I shook the rad a lot of times, not helping. my friend has one and his one makes zero noise. what should I do?


Did you try shaking both the pump and the radiator at the same time while the pump is running? I shook the crap out of mine, turned the radiator upside-down left-side right, etc., just trying to move water and air around to get bubbles out.

I also ran furmark at max settings and intentionally unplugged the radiator fan to heat the water up in an effort to move more of the air bubbles around. I let it get up to around 90C before I plugged the fan back in (my gtx470 is rating up to 105C).

All of these things seemed to help, because at first it was very loud, but now it is faint. I can't hear it when my head's above the desk and I can only hear it when I stick my head under the desk. Even then, I have to be within 3-4 feet of the computer to actually hear it, so I think that these things helped. I'm hoping that over the next few days of use, it will subside even more, but we'll see. I submitted a support ticket to Antec asking about the issue.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> Did you try shaking both the pump and the radiator at the same time while the pump is running? I shook the crap out of mine, turned the radiator upside-down left-side right, etc., just trying to move water and air around to get bubbles out.
> I also ran furmark at max settings and intentionally unplugged the radiator fan to heat the water up in an effort to move more of the air bubbles around. I let it get up to around 90C before I plugged the fan back in (my gtx470 is rating up to 105C).
> All of these things seemed to help, because at first it was very loud, but now it is faint. I can't hear it when my head's above the desk and I can only hear it when I stick my head under the desk. Even then, I have to be within 3-4 feet of the computer to actually hear it, so I think that these things helped. I'm hoping that over the next few days of use, it will subside even more, but we'll see. I submitted a support ticket to Antec asking about the issue.


Thanks for the reply Bud







I actually installed one of these a few months back for a friend and these units are supposed to be very quite, it may make some air bubble noise for the first hr or so but after that you cant hear it even if you leave your case open, there is some noise but not audible unless you are 3 - 4 centimeters close, not 3 - 4 feet.

I tried all the methods you described above, but didn't really help. The Noise I got is a slight grinding noise, I did some research and looks like its a bearing issue that some people were able to fix by running a small magnet across it to reset the bearing.. Its basically a faulty unit, I think I am gonna RMA mine, you should too (if yours dont get better)

they are suppose to run silent, these things.


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Thanks for the reply Bud
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I actually installed one of these a few months back for a friend and these units are supposed to be very quite, it may make some air bubble noise for the first hr or so but after that you cant hear it even if you leave your case open, there is some noise but not audible unless you are 3 - 4 centimeters close, not 3 - 4 feet.
> I tried all the methods you described above, but didn't really help. The Noise I got is a slight grinding noise, I did some research and looks like its a bearing issue that some people were able to fix by running a small magnet across it to reset the bearing.. Its basically a faulty unit, I think I am gonna RMA mine, you should too (if yours dont get better)
> they are suppose to run silent, these things.


I would like to know more about this magnet thing.. Since I've lapped my 620 and have it strapped to the die, it'd be great to not have to pull it off (and do it all over again after an RMA). Do you have any links? I'd love to fix it myself if at all possible.

Edit: After some searching, this is what I found:



Looks interesting, and I think that my problem is likely bearing related. My only question is if I have to keep the magnet taped to the pump forever, or if I can take it off after so long? I would hope that it could be fixed by a treatment, because leaving a magnet taped to the pump isn't an option as I don't have enough space between my two graphics cards.

The video may address this question, but I can't watch it at work because I have no sound. I'll check it out when I get home, but if someone else watches it, tell me what it says.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> I would like to know more about this magnet thing.. Since I've lapped my 620 and have it strapped to the die, it'd be great to not have to pull it off (and do it all over again after an RMA). Do you have any links? I'd love to fix it myself if at all possible.
> Edit: After some searching, this is what I found:
> 
> 
> 
> Looks interesting, and I think that my problem is likely bearing related. My only question is if I have to keep the magnet taped to the pump forever, or if I can take it off after so long? I would hope that it could be fixed by a treatment, because leaving a magnet taped to the pump isn't an option as I don't have enough space between my two graphics cards.
> The video may address this question, but I can't watch it at work because I have no sound. I'll check it out when I get home, but if someone else watches it, tell me what it says.


Just RMA it man, and tell them to test the new unit.before sending it to you. That's the video alright, I can see how the magnet fix can solve the problem but I rather RMA it, mainly because I'd probably have to leave the magnet there(which doesn't look very cool when you have a window) and even if I used a larger speaker type magnet to run over the thing a few times, it might just go back to its old grinding noises in a few months / year when the bearing goes out of place again. So I rather start off with a good unit. This time before you lap it, just test it with a spare PSU for an hr or so. Just to be sure.

edit: does lapping the concave finish really help much? how are you lapping it? I am guessing you could just do it with a small piece of sand paper and your fingers? or do you need a block? what grit paper are you finishing it off with, I think I only got 800 100 and 1500 at home.


----------



## bogey1337

Mine went away after a couple of days.







Putting the cpu underload seems to be effective.


----------



## gdesmo

Hello all , my first little sys , FX 4100 , 620 h2o

dan 032.JPG 2728k .JPG file


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Just RMA it man, and tell them to test the new unit.before sending it to you. That's the video alright, I can see how the magnet fix can solve the problem but I rather RMA it, mainly because I'd probably have to leave the magnet there(which doesn't look very cool when you have a window) and even if I used a larger speaker type magnet to run over the thing a few times, it might just go back to its old grinding noises in a few months / year when the bearing goes out of place again. So I rather start off with a good unit. This time before you lap it, just test it with a spare PSU for an hr or so. Just to be sure.
> edit: does lapping the concave finish really help much? how are you lapping it? I am guessing you could just do it with a small piece of sand paper and your fingers? or do you need a block? what grit paper are you finishing it off with, I think I only got 800 100 and 1500 at home.


Although I'd like to have a unit that works right from the start, I just hate the idea of waiting for the whole RMA process, lapping the 620 again, and re-attaching it to the gpu (with zipties). I just want to be done with it lol.

As far as the lapping goes, I haven't personally verified if or how much of a difference it makes. However, I did notice that the 620 definitely seemed to be a concave surface (as much as my eye could tell), so it made sense that I would want it to be flat. Especially since it's against the mirror-like surface of the die. But it may not actually make a huge difference; I didn't care enough to go through the trouble to do thes testing to find out.

I'll try to post the process that I followed to lap it. I found a better description of the process online than what is in the guide here. I didn't use my fingers (I did the first time) -- I used a piece of glass from a picture frame and moved the cooler head itself instead of moving the sandpaper. I'll post with more details later -- leaving work.

@Bogey1337 -- I'm assuming that you have your 620 hooked up to your CPU and so you put it under load to heat up the water in an effort to get rid of air bubbles. IMine is hooked up to my gtx470 (graphics card), and I used a gpu stress test (furmark) to do the same thing. I even intentionally unplugged the radiator's fan to let the temps get higher. Didn't really do much, because I think I have a bearing-related problem, and not an air bubble problem.


----------



## gdesmo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> Did you try shaking both the pump and the radiator at the same time while the pump is running? I shook the crap out of mine, turned the radiator upside-down left-side right, etc., just trying to move water and air around to get bubbles out.
> I also ran furmark at max settings and intentionally unplugged the radiator fan to heat the water up in an effort to move more of the air bubbles around. I let it get up to around 90C before I plugged the fan back in (my gtx470 is rating up to 105C).
> All of these things seemed to help, because at first it was very loud, but now it is faint. I can't hear it when my head's above the desk and I can only hear it when I stick my head under the desk. Even then, I have to be within 3-4 feet of the computer to actually hear it, so I think that these things helped. I'm hoping that over the next few days of use, it will subside even more, but we'll see. I submitted a support ticket to Antec asking about the issue.


May be a voltage problem, had same thing, unplugged CPU connection and plugged it into my fan controller ,it worked fine at an indicated 1400 rpm then dialed it back to 1150 rpm and the noise came back. If it is a magnet problem it may not have enough voltage, I hope that helps because the noise is aggravating.


----------



## TheBirdman74

definitely sucky bearings guys







I just took a speaker magnet close to the unit and the grinding noise goes away, left it there for a few seconds and repeated many times, the noise only goes away when the magnet is there, as soon as you take the magnet away the grinding is back. Sucks, I am definitely replacing this unit. Hope I get a good working one in return.


----------



## deathdealerxx

When I first bought my 620 it made the clicking noise everyone is talking about. All I did was shake the pump and res then install. Then I laid my pc down with the antec logo on the pump facing down and turn on your pc. I tried this and the clicking noise went away within 20 seconds. Hope this helps anyone.


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathdealerxx*
> 
> When I first bought my 620 it made the clicking noise everyone is talking about. All I did was shake the pump and res then install. Then I laid my pc down with the antec logo on the pump facing down and turn on your pc. I tried this and the clicking noise went away within 20 seconds. Hope this helps anyone.


I tried your suggestion, still have the rattling. Thanks for the idea though.

So it sounds like the magnet needs to stay there in order for the fix to work. I'm not really ok with that, as not only are the aesthetics terrible, but it takes up more space as well. However, would it be possible to tape or secure the magnet to the inside of the pump cover? Has anyone taken that cover off? I'm just curious. I'm sure I'd probably have to dismount the pump and take out all the screws on the cooler head to do that, and I might as well just RMA it. Just a thought.


----------



## deathdealerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> I tried your suggestion, still have the rattling. Thanks for the idea though.
> So it sounds like the magnet needs to stay there in order for the fix to work. I'm not really ok with that, as not only are the aesthetics terrible, but it takes up more space as well. However, would it be possible to tape or secure the magnet to the inside of the pump cover? Has anyone taken that cover off? I'm just curious. I'm sure I'd probably have to dismount the pump and take out all the screws on the cooler head to do that, and I might as well just RMA it. Just a thought.


I would RMA the cooler. If your tried all the fixes and are still having problems I would say you have a defective cooler. My Antec 620 makes no noise.


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathdealerxx*
> 
> I would RMA the cooler. If your tried all the fixes and are still having problems I would say you have a defective cooler. My Antec 620 makes no noise.


I will. I wonder if antec would repair it and send me the same one back so I don't have to lap it again? I have a feeling that the rma process is going to take painfully long...


----------



## deathdealerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> I will. I wonder if antec would repair it and send me the same one back so I don't have to lap it again? I have a feeling that the rma process is going to take painfully long...


haha who knows. I wouldnt put it past them. I wasnt sure they would accept the RMA if the copper plate has been lapped or modified. Idk how their RMA policy works though. I hope you can get a new one. That noise would drive me insane!


----------



## deathdealerxx

did you notice enough of a temp difference when you lapped the copper plate? Did you remove the bottom of the cooler or did you leave in attached when you lapped?


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *deathdealerxx*
> 
> did you notice enough of a temp difference when you lapped the copper plate? Did you remove the bottom of the cooler or did you leave in attached when you lapped?


Well, I lapped the plate AND removed the IHS at the same time, so I can't tell you how much difference the lapping in and of itself made. But altogether, I am running 7 degrees cooler under heavy load. I didn't even know people were removing the copper plate on the 620! Is that what you meant?

There are two components that are touching each other. The Antec cooler, and the IHS (integrated heat spreader) of the graphics card.

You can lap the surface of the cooler, and remove the IHS (which is part of the graphics card). But I don't think you can remove the bottom of the cooler.. If you can, I haven't seen anything about it on the forums here. What is even underneath it?


----------



## deathdealerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> Well, I lapped the plate AND removed the IHS at the same time, so I can't tell you how much difference the lapping in and of itself made. But altogether, I am running 7 degrees cooler under heavy load. I didn't even know people were removing the copper plate on the 620! Is that what you meant?
> There are two components that are touching each other. The Antec cooler, and the IHS (integrated heat spreader) of the graphics card.
> You can lap the surface of the cooler, and remove the IHS (which is part of the graphics card). But I don't think you can remove the bottom of the cooler.. If you can, I haven't seen anything about it on the forums here. What is even underneath it?


I was just talking about lapping the cooler. Yah there are several torx screws that hold that copper plate onto the cooler. I wasnt sure if it was possible to remove the copper plate. Figured it would be easier to lap the copper that way..

Ive done a little bit of lapping but still nervous to do that on my main rig. I would mess up that one time lol.


----------



## reaver83

It can be done, look through the 1st thread under the 920 reviews section, click on xsreviews. In that on the 3rd page they completely disect the pump of the 920. The 620 shouldn't be too much different, not as good copper plate, not so great impeller, but same deal.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> I will. I wonder if antec would repair it and send me the same one back so I don't have to lap it again? I have a feeling that the rma process is going to take painfully long...


Hum.. I may be wrong, and I hope I am, but you might get problem whit rma your cooler. They have stated ceveral times that 0 modding of the units will be acepted.
And when you lapp it, it is possiblility for you to hurt the cables etc in the proces ( im not saying you have done it, but the averge computer user might not be that carefull when doing it, ending up hurting the radiator,cables or pump) so dont be supprised if they turn down your rma request, I think they have a no mod policy.

I may be wrong, but that is how I understand it. In norway, we got great customer rights, I would have destroyed the warenty by lapping it. And we got 5 years warenty on cell phones,printers ( to pixelmanias great frustration,hehe) etc, but every right disapear out the window if you start modding it. And there it is an 0 room for error, arg cant find the word im looking for, but they have stated 0 aceptence for moding because it would be hard to find a silverline of what to acept on every product.


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Hum.. I may be wrong, and I hope I am, but you might get problem whit rma your cooler. They have stated ceveral times that 0 modding of the units will be acepted.
> And when you lapp it, it is possiblility for you to hurt the cables etc in the proces ( im not saying you have done it, but the averge computer user might not be that carefull when doing it, ending up hurting the radiator,cables or pump) so dont be supprised if they turn down your rma request, I think they have a no mod policy.
> I may be wrong, but that is how I understand it. In norway, we got great customer rights, I would have destroyed the warenty by lapping it. And we got 5 years warenty on cell phones,printers ( to pixelmanias great frustration,hehe) etc, but every right disapear out the window if you start modding it. And there it is an 0 room for error, arg cant find the word im looking for, but they have stated 0 aceptence for moding because it would be hard to find a silverline of what to acept on every product.


Well then, I guess I'd better hope that they don't notice that it's nice, flat, and shiny.


----------



## reaver83

or, if they won't accept it, you can always bite the bullet and dissasemble it and find out what the problem is... HERE, this is the last time I'm linking a complete teardown of the 920, 620 should be similar. If you can't look at it and see how they did it, but you have the know-how to lap it, then your just being lazy, GOOGLE IT!

Sorry to be frank, but sometimes it's gotta be said.


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> or, if they won't accept it, you can always bite the bullet and dissasemble it and find out what the problem is... HERE, this is the last time I'm linking a complete teardown of the 920, 620 should be similar. If you can't look at it and see how they did it, but you have the know-how to lap it, then your just being lazy, GOOGLE IT!
> 
> Sorry to be frank, but sometimes it's gotta be said.


I'm not sure if you're directing this at me or not, but I wasn't asking anybody for help with tearing it down. I'm fully capable of searching, although I do appreciate the link.

My earlier comment about not knowing it was possible to remove the copper plate on the 620 was said in somewhat of a different context that may have not been clear to others. I thought that the other guy was saying that people were removing the copper plate and then attaching the 620 to the graphics card without the copper plate. I was saying that I didn't know you could do that. But in retrospect, I don't think that's what he meant.


----------



## mksteez

Are the 620's the only one with the noise problem? What about the 920?

and curious about temps on the 920, what do guys get during load with sandy bridges at around 1.4 volts ?


----------



## Zerodameaon

Never gotten it up to 1.4, I get a stable OC of 4.5 at only 1.25 volts. Folding that sits me at around 60c at most. Prime 95 I see about 65, but I have my ramp set pretty low.

And I never heard a single click, tick, knock or pop from my 920. Only thing is one of the fans gets a strange vibration sometimes but I just mess with the settings and go to silent back to custom and it goes away.


----------



## lukeman3000

I can verify that the magnet thing works. But it kind of freaks me out because when you hold the magnet close, you can feel it vibrate, and although the rattling goes away, the pump sounds.. different. But it is much more silent when a magnet even gets close to it.

I wonder what exactly is going on, and if perhaps there is another way to fix it?


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> I can verify that the magnet thing works. But it kind of freaks me out because when you hold the magnet close, you can feel it vibrate, and although the rattling goes away, the pump sounds.. different. But it is much more silent when a magnet even gets close to it.
> I wonder what exactly is going on, and if perhaps there is another way to fix it?


It worked? LOL! I thought he was having an joke on someones expence!

Any who can explain why that work? Amazing,hehe


----------



## Captivate

I have a Antec 920 on my i7 920, and got it stable @ 4GHz OC at 1.325v, with temps around 80C on full load with an RPM of about 1200 I think, very silent. When I crank the fans up to full speed, temps drop to about 67C, but the noise is not bearable.
I also have no idea how to set up chillcontrol, I'd like to test different RPM noise levels, but it's either Max RPM or a custom RPM that I can't seem to change...


----------



## viper522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> I have a Antec 920 on my i7 920, and got it stable @ 4GHz OC at 1.325v, with temps around 80C on full load with an RPM of about 1200 I think, very silent. When I crank the fans up to full speed, temps drop to about 67C, but the noise is not bearable.
> I also have no idea how to set up chillcontrol, I'd like to test different RPM noise levels, but it's either Max RPM or a custom RPM that I can't seem to change...


In ChillControl, goto the third tab at the bottom 'Fan Control'. In the top section 'Liquid Temperature Fan Controls' are a Fan Ramp Start Temp and Full Fan Speed Temp. Note that these numbers are measured in the pump and they are the water temp, not CPU core temp.

Go back to your Dashboard tab at the bottom and look at the Liquid Temp in the top left quadrant. For example, mine is 31.4C right now. Now look to the right and see Fan Speed. Mine is 0660 RPM right now. The knob in the top right of the ChillControl window must be in the lowest position of the 3 in order to use custom settings (middle is Silent and highest is FULL OMG).

Back on Fan Control tab, I have set my Fan Ramp Start Temp at 31C which gives me no fan noise (~650rpm) and 35C CPU core (highest of 4) at idle/web browsing/simple stuff.

Now go push a heavy CPU load for a few minutes and get that CPU temp to rise. While you're doing that, go back to Chill Control's Fan Control tab and start playing with the Full Fan Speed Temp. Start high (around 45) and bring it down until you get the Fan Speed (back on the Dashboard tab) where you want it.

Tweak from there!


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> or, if they won't accept it, you can always bite the bullet and dissasemble it and find out what the problem is... HERE, this is the last time I'm linking a complete teardown of the 920, 620 should be similar. If you can't look at it and see how they did it, but you have the know-how to lap it, then your just being lazy, GOOGLE IT!
> 
> Sorry to be frank, but sometimes it's gotta be said.


its in the OP now


----------



## reaver83

Quote:
Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa* 



> its in the OP now


I knew you put it in the OP, thats why I was irritated that people were not actually checking this stuff out before asking questions. I do appologise for my tone though.

As for what he was asking about them removing the copper plate, no they don't. What they do is remove the metal plate off the die of the GPU's, after removing the heatsink. YES, it can be done, but one small slip with the razor blade, and you have a $250+ paperweight. It's risky business.


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> I knew you put it in the OP, thats why I was irritated that people were not actually checking this stuff out before asking questions. I do appologise for my tone though.
> 
> As for what he was asking about them removing the copper plate, no they don't. What they do is remove the metal plate off the die of the GPU's, after removing the heatsink. YES, it can be done, but one small slip with the razor blade, and you have a $250+ paperweight. It's risky business.


I didn't really understand why you were irritated, because looking back over the past couple pages, I don't see where anyone was like "CAN IT BE TAKEN APART?? HOW?" Well, there was that one guy, but I thought he meant you could run the system without the copper plate -- a completely different topic that your link doesn't even cover. I'm pretty sure the copper plate has to be there lol (correct me if I'm wrong).

And when you posted the second time, it was like something I said set you off.. I just don't see it. I think there was a little confusion on my part over what the other guy said about removing the copper plate. I always assumed it could be disassembled without much trouble because of the visible screws, so I was never actually asking "can it be disassembled", I was asking "can it be ran without the copper plate" because I misunderstood what that one guy said. (Sorry to be referring to you as "that one guy", but I can't remember your user name lol"

Anyways, I'm getting off-topic. I just think there was a little miscommunication.


----------



## reaver83

Thats the biggest reason why I applogised, I realized I was blowing up when really there was no need. I let things going on around be reflect in my posts.

But I know "That guy" was talking about. He was asking if you removed the copper plate to lap it, so as not to shave the plastic or the screws. He did not mean run it without the copper plate, as that would just leave you with no way to seal the system.

But what the guys modding them to their GPU's is doing is: you know how your Processor has that metal plate on top of the die's of the processors? Well, alot of GPU's are doing that now too, especially the GTX270's up. What they do is remove that IHS, (Integrated Heat shield), so that the Kuhler is directly cooling the GPU core itself, not a Shield that is transfering the heat from the core. This is very risky business because they are basically glued onto the board, and one small slip will either dig into the board, or into one of the pins of the core. For a 5C difference, it's not worth possibly bricking your $250+ GPU, unless you have a money tree growing in your back yard.


----------



## deathdealerxx

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Thats the biggest reason why I applogised, I realized I was blowing up when really there was no need. I let things going on around be reflect in my posts.
> 
> But I know "That guy" was talking about. He was asking if you removed the copper plate to lap it, so as not to shave the plastic or the screws. He did not mean run it without the copper plate, as that would just leave you with no way to seal the system.
> 
> But what the guys modding them to their GPU's is doing is: you know how your Processor has that metal plate on top of the die's of the processors? Well, alot of GPU's are doing that now too, especially the GTX270's up. What they do is remove that IHS, (Integrated Heat shield), so that the Kuhler is directly cooling the GPU core itself, not a Shield that is transfering the heat from the core. This is very risky business because they are basically glued onto the board, and one small slip will either dig into the board, or into one of the pins of the core. For a 5C difference, it's not worth possibly bricking your $250+ GPU, unless you have a money tree growing in your back yard.


Yes thank you for clearing that up..


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Thats the biggest reason why I applogised, I realized I was blowing up when really there was no need. I let things going on around be reflect in my posts.
> 
> But I know "That guy" was talking about. He was asking if you removed the copper plate to lap it, so as not to shave the plastic or the screws. He did not mean run it without the copper plate, as that would just leave you with no way to seal the system.
> 
> But what the guys modding them to their GPU's is doing is: you know how your Processor has that metal plate on top of the die's of the processors? Well, alot of GPU's are doing that now too, especially the GTX270's up. What they do is remove that IHS, (Integrated Heat shield), so that the Kuhler is directly cooling the GPU core itself, not a Shield that is transfering the heat from the core. This is very risky business because they are basically glued onto the board, and one small slip will either dig into the board, or into one of the pins of the core. For a 5C difference, it's not worth possibly bricking your $250+ GPU, unless you have a money tree growing in your back yard.


Appropriate image. But yes, I know what they are doing, because I did it myself. I removed the IHS and am running the 620 directly on the die. The biggest reason I did it was actually not for temperature difference, but for space. It gave me a couple precious millimeters in between my already cramped graphics cards, and that was worth it in my eyes. Now, they're not pushing against each other and slightly flexing.

I think that once you have the 620 securely strapped to the die, the risk factor drops considerably, since it doesn't move hardly at all. The risk is largest when you're tapping a razor blade with screwdriver with a hammer to pop the IHS off of the board. But I was able to do it fairly easily; I took my time and tried to be very careful.


----------



## TheBirdman74

I am sending my one for RMA tomorrow, Hopefully all this will be done and they will send me a good working noiseless replacement Unit before the end of the week.


----------



## tlminh

Can I join the club?
This is my 1st rig but I waited a while to upgrade the stock AMD cooler to this

The stock cooler came off very easily
Scrapped a bit of the mobo backside while taking out the stock rear bracket but everything's working fine so far (knock on wood)
In retrospect, I could have easily left the stock rear bracket on as the screws were the same size

Thanks for all the tips, very satisfied so far


----------



## lukeman3000

Nice lights, and great job. I used to have a blue led fan in the front of my computer (for intake), but I took it out. After the novelty wore off, I got kind of tired of the blue light cast all over my walls when I was trying to sleep at night.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Update









Sent mine for RMA yesterday, they got it today and tested it to be faulty. Should have a replacement sent tomorrow and have it the same day or the next day









See easy as eating a piece of pie bud. Why fix something myself and void the warranty, something so important as the pump when I can just send it and get a proper working one









Hope everything works out fine this time


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tlminh*
> 
> 
> Can I join the club?
> This is my 1st rig but I waited a while to upgrade the stock AMD cooler to this
> The stock cooler came off very easily
> Scrapped a bit of the mobo backside while taking out the stock rear bracket but everything's working fine so far (knock on wood)
> In retrospect, I could have easily left the stock rear bracket on as the screws were the same size
> Thanks for all the tips, very satisfied so far


Beautiful rig.

You can add yourself to the list


----------



## lukeman3000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Update
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent mine for RMA yesterday, they got it today and tested it to be faulty. Should have a replacement sent tomorrow and have it the same day or the next day
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> See easy as eating a piece of pie bud. Why fix something myself and void the warranty, something so important as the pump when I can just send it and get a proper working one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope everything works out fine this time


How long did it take before you heard back from them? I haven't heard got a response back from my original email yet.

Also, where is the serial # located for this thing? It's not talking about the number that's on the barcode is it?


----------



## Captivate

I'm sending my 920 back as I caught the flu. The watercooling flu. I must buy a real set.
Also, to anyone taking off the backplate's adhesive. TAKE CARE! It's like super glue. I had to pry mine off with a knife...


----------



## frogger4

So, I just upgraded to Windows 8 Consumer Preview, and the Chill Control utility for my Kuhler 920 no longer works (that's the application that you can use to control the fan speed). Has anyone else had this problem if they have loaded Windows 8? I sent a customer service request to Antec about it; I'll post here if I hear anything useful.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> How long did it take before you heard back from them? I haven't heard got a response back from my original email yet.
> Also, where is the serial # located for this thing? It's not talking about the number that's on the barcode is it?


I asked them for an RMA on Monday, After a couple of email exchanges I got an RMA number and sent it off on tuesday, they got it on wednesday and they should have sent the replacement today or maybe tomorrow (Friday). Told them to check the replacement before sending it out this time. Hoping for the best









The serial is on the Radiator, Check for the astec logo, thats the serial









edit: Who did you send the email to? the place you bought it from or Antec? I'm pretty sure you gotta get it RMA'd through the place you bought it from.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *frogger4*
> 
> So, I just upgraded to Windows 8 Consumer Preview, and the Chill Control utility for my Kuhler 920 no longer works (that's the application that you can use to control the fan speed). Has anyone else had this problem if they have loaded Windows 8? I sent a customer service request to Antec about it; I'll post here if I hear anything useful.


You could try compatiablity mode (if that exists on windows 8)

Windows 7 is lame and gay. and its too early. I doubt antec would be looking to develop new drivers at this early state. roll back to windows 7


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Captivate*
> 
> I'm sending my 920 back as I caught the flu. The watercooling flu. I must buy a real set.
> Also, to anyone taking off the backplate's adhesive. TAKE CARE! It's like super glue. I had to pry mine off with a knife...


Very true, I learned it the hard way on a different motherboard. but here's an idea.

just DONT GLUE IT TO THE MOTHERBOARD! glue the strip to the bracket and leave the other side alone and keep the wax paper on it.









That 920 was a very good cooler tho, almost on par with the crosair H100 (dual rad)


----------



## geronimosan

After reading up on the Antec 920, I purchased one the other day and received it today before heading out to work. Excited, I opened up the box quickly just to take a look, and saw a couple of unexpected things.

1) The circle of pre-applied thermal paste is on the heatsink as expected and intact, but the surrounding portions of the copper heatsink, which I expected to be pristine/shiny/polished, have large smears of thermal compound, and in some places it looks like tiny cumbles of dried thermal compound.

2) One of the swiveling elbow connectors at the heatsink has some sort of fluid around it. I am unsure if this would be due to a leak, or whether there is some sort of grease applied to the connector to make it rotate better, and too much was applied.

3) Some of the radiator fans look slightly bent - only a little, but looks as if the side of the radiator might have bumped up against something softly.

Is this the typical state of delivery for the Antec 920, or did I somehow receive some sort of refurbished model? (I ordered from Amazon) Should I be concerned about all of this? Is there an easy way to test it out for possible leaks?


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *geronimosan*
> 
> After reading up on the Antec 920, I purchased one the other day and received it today before heading out to work. Excited, I opened up the box quickly just to take a look, and saw a couple of unexpected things.
> 1) The circle of pre-applied thermal paste is on the heatsink as expected and intact, but the surrounding portions of the copper heatsink, which I expected to be pristine/shiny/polished, have large smears of thermal compound, and in some places it looks like tiny cumbles of dried thermal compound.
> 
> 2) One of the swiveling elbow connectors at the heatsink has some sort of fluid around it. I am unsure if this would be due to a leak, or whether there is some sort of grease applied to the connector to make it rotate better, and too much was applied.
> 
> 3) Some of the radiator fans look slightly bent - only a little, but looks as if the side of the radiator might have bumped up against something softly.
> Is this the typical state of delivery for the Antec 920, or did I somehow receive some sort of refurbished model? (I ordered from Amazon) Should I be concerned about all of this? Is there an easy way to test it out for possible leaks?


1. Yes, But it shouldn't be a big problem, I too had similar issue with my friends one, but we just wiped it clean using some tissue and cleaning spray. And used our own Tim. The one I bought was however shiny and clean

2. Thats some sort of lube. its not leaking, I guess they put it on both the elbows, I wouldn't wipe it off if I were you, just leave it there.

3. Its okay, not a big deal really. I never got one with some bent fins but I remember my friends one might have had one or two slightly bent ones that I made straight using a needle. nothing to be too concerned about imho.









It wont leak, but you can test it by jump starting a PSU and using a molex to 3 Pin converter to plug in the pump. Just remember to shake the radiator a bit before installing, gets rid of the air bubbles and noise.


----------



## geronimosan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> 1. Yes, But it shouldn't be a big problem, I too had similar issue with my friends one, but we just wiped it clean using some tissue and cleaning spray. And used our own Tim. The one I bought was however shiny and clean
> 2. Thats some sort of lube. its not leaking, I guess they put it on both the elbows, I wouldn't wipe it off if I were you, just leave it there.
> 3. Its okay, not a big deal really. I never got one with some bent fins but I remember my friends one might have had one or two slightly bent ones that I made straight using a needle. nothing to be too concerned about imho.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It wont leak, but you can test it by jump starting a PSU and using a molex to 3 Pin converter to plug in the pump. Just remember to shake the radiator a bit before installing, gets rid of the air bubbles and noise.


Thanks for your thoughts on the matter.

I was too antsy to get my machine OC'ed to wait around for an RMA, so I bent the fins back and dropped it in the box, and so far everything has worked out great, and am pretty impressed with it.

I now have an i7 990x OC'ed @ 4.5 (stable after 20 runs of IntelBurn maxxed) with temps at ~35-40 idle, ~75-82 during IntelBurn (ambient room temp of ~25), and temps never going above 70 during Premiere Pro/After Effects video rendering, so I'm extremely happy.


----------



## Paranoia

Hey guys,

I have a 620 i got this week and my temps are around 35-38c which seems to me to be high even thou my old zalman cooler i was getting around 40-45c which is alot better but still seems kinda high...ive tried to reseat the pump a could of times and put new thermal compound (arctic silver 5) and nothing seems to work. Im doing push/pull atm...i have a enermax t.b. silence fan pushing air and i have a Xigmatek xsf pulling air...running a Q6600 at stock speeds (atm) is this as good as its gonna get or is something wrong with my kuhler or do i just need better fans...keep in mind this is my first anything type water cooler as im a noob =D lol

Thanks Para


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Paranoia*
> 
> Hey guys,
> I have a 620 i got this week and my temps are around 35-38c which seems to me to be high even thou my old zalman cooler i was getting around 40-45c which is alot better but still seems kinda high...ive tried to reseat the pump a could of times and put new thermal compound (arctic silver 5) and nothing seems to work. Im doing push/pull atm...i have a enermax t.b. silence fan pushing air and i have a Xigmatek xsf pulling air...running a Q6600 at stock speeds (atm) is this as good as its gonna get or is something wrong with my kuhler or do i just need better fans...keep in mind this is my first anything type water cooler as im a noob =D lol
> Thanks Para


Welcome to the club! Try this...set your push/pull fans as intake and your top case fans as exhausts.


----------



## tlminh

Dumb question, but what is that button on the surface of of the 620? I always have an urge to push the button . . . (if it is indeed a button)


----------



## Paranoia

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Welcome to the club! Try this...set your push/pull fans as intake and your top case fans as exhausts.


Thanks...temps seem to be about the same or a little worse...going to go switch them back as exhausts


----------



## 271973

Hello all.

I've gone for what might be an unorthodox setup, with using the top of a Fractal Design R3 as intake, with a single pull setup with my H2O 620, as attached. My rationale is that the radiator will need cool-ish air to be pulled through it in order for it to keep temperatures down. I have two intakes at the front of the case also, hopefully providing a stream of air for my 6950.

Also, I am finding the the stock 620 fan at 1350RPM (lowest) to be very noisy, I'm thinking because of the air pushing against the grill on the rear of the case?

Any tips appreciated!


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> *Snip*
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I've gone for what might be an unorthodox setup, with using the top of a Fractal Design R3 as intake, with a single pull setup with my H2O 620, as attached. My rationale is that the radiator will need cool-ish air to be pulled through it in order for it to keep temperatures down. I have two intakes at the front of the case also, hopefully providing a stream of air for my 6950.
> 
> Also, I am finding the the stock 620 fan at 1350RPM (lowest) to be very noisy, I'm thinking because of the air pushing against the grill on the rear of the case?
> 
> Any tips appreciated!
> 
> *Snip


Been there, done that with my 920 and not quite so great NZXT Guardian case. The problem with that Idea is it doesn't matter how much cool air you push into your system if it doesn't eject any warm air. Doing this in my setup brought northbridge temps up to 50C, whereas flipping the top to Exhaust but leaving the Radiator fans to exhaust dropped it to 40C. I also mounted the pull fan outside my case, moving the radiator further from the VRM's and Processor. Also, Zip-tieing the hoses somewhere in proximity of airflow will help.


----------



## adi518

A little update. My Kuhler is now using a push-pull with two Gelid PWM Slient 12 fans (1500rpm). Gave it a quick overclock to 4.3 and ran prime95 for like an hour, came @ ~ 55 degrees. However, it's now winter so it may differ a little in the summer (probably not by much). Still, I'm quite satisfied with these fans. They run @ 700rpm in idle (Gelid presents accurate readings I shall say!), meaning they're not audible. In full load it also seems very very reasonable. Considering I'd probably play a game when that happens sums up to really good results overall. I'm now tempted to try Akasa's new Silent fans, peeking @ 1600 rpm. Also wondering if keeping the black scheme for the Kuhler would look nicer or not, cause these Gelids are white


----------



## viper522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*


Well, you could improve airflow coming in from the front by losing that HDD cage entirely. At least in the picture, it looks like you've only got one SSD in place. The great thing about those is that they can be mounted anywhere, in any configuration, with no loss of performance. I have my 60GB used as a caching drive (Z68/SRT) zip-tied between the right side panel and the right side case door - completely out of sight. Then you won't need the scaffolding getting in the way of your incoming air from the front.


----------



## 271973

Thanks viper522!

I plan on getting a mechanical drive for storage next month, but I may look into mounting it within a 5.25" bay and doing as you suggest with the SSD!

I'm fairly happy with my setup now. I blocked off the bottom intake and mounted the top intake in a fan filter, along with adding a 1000RPM fan onto my Kuhler 620 radiator. It's now:

case <- fractal design 1000RPM silent series 120mm (pull) <- radiator <- stock antec 620 fan (pushing)

However, my next concern is to do with the CPU fans, the 'main' Antec one at least, never moving more than 50RPM from 1350RPM speed. The Kuhler 620 has its cable split for the fan, and then plugs directly via a 3-pin connector into my mobo. However, how does the motherboard control the speed of the fans? Even at high load, the fans do not sound as though they are speeding up at all.

Is this correct?


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Thanks viper522!
> I plan on getting a mechanical drive for storage next month, but I may look into mounting it within a 5.25" bay and doing as you suggest with the SSD!
> I'm fairly happy with my setup now. I blocked off the bottom intake and mounted the top intake in a fan filter, along with adding a 1000RPM fan onto my Kuhler 620 radiator. It's now:
> case <- fractal design 1000RPM silent series 120mm (pull) <- radiator <- stock antec 620 fan (pushing)
> However, my next concern is to do with the CPU fans, the 'main' Antec one at least, never moving more than 50RPM from 1350RPM speed. The Kuhler 620 has its cable split for the fan, and then plugs directly via a 3-pin connector into my mobo. However, how does the motherboard control the speed of the fans? Even at high load, the fans do not sound as though they are speeding up at all.
> Is this correct?


The monitored rpm is the pump, not fan. Fan is adjusted automatic by the pump when core temps rise. Try make it hot and listen if it starts making more sound


----------



## noktrnl

Sup guys, add me to this list







just got mine today. cooling a 2500k at stock speeds for now. getting about 30c idle, although i dont think the thermal compound has set yet.



i was wondering what methods people used to paint theirs, and other mods people have done (new hoses and fittings?)

anyways, cheers!


----------



## darklink

Been running my 620 for a few months now and I keep having this nagging question in the back of my head...... does the coolant ever need to be replaced? Or is it just that after a few years the overall unit just has to be replaced?


----------



## Seid Dark

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darklink*
> 
> Been running my 620 for a few months now and I keep having this nagging question in the back of my head...... does the coolant ever need to be replaced? Or is it just that after a few years the overall unit just has to be replaced?


It's closed loop, so you don't have to replace the coolant. Eventually the pump will die though. Antec estimates the lifetime for the pump to be 50000 hours so I wouldn't worry about that.


----------



## darklink

Thanks!


----------



## Zerodameaon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Seid Dark*
> 
> It's closed loop, so you don't have to replace the coolant. Eventually the pump will die though. Antec estimates the lifetime for the pump to be 50000 hours so I wouldn't worry about that.


Wonder what cool new cooling tech will be out in 6 years when that lifetime is done on my Khuler.
All in one LN2 cooling kits where it just has a replacement cooling pack or something lol.


----------



## noktrnl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerodameaon*
> 
> Wonder what cool new cooling tech will be out in 6 years when that lifetime is done on my Khuler.
> All in one LN2 cooling kits where it just has a replacement cooling pack or something lol.


put me down for a 620 sized phase change cooler lol


----------



## Zerodameaon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noktrnl*
> 
> put me down for a 620 sized phase change cooler lol


For the same price lol.


----------



## BWG

What temp drop would one get by switching to AP-15's on a 920?


----------



## Maurauder

Using a Kühler 920 for my new build. Um the FX processors seem to have a bit of a temp sensor bug so can't be EXACTLY sure but temps on full load avg around ~57(tmpin2) @ 4.5ghz depending on ambient temps in room.


----------



## BWG

It looks nice. I took mine off the case exhaust because I fold 24/7 and needed air to get to my VRM's. Let us know where you get on that OC.


----------



## Maurauder

I can't imagine where my temps would be if i started up both a GPU and SMP work unit. I'd have to switch fans to intake on my radiatior. I might try that tonight though. see how temps match up against what they are currently.


----------



## chmodlabs

Picked up a few 620's for $59.99 each at my local Fry's store. They're pretty loud compared to the Corsair H60 hydro cooler. This is especially odd since Asetek is the oem for both the h60 and the kuhler 620.
Using them for my gtx 580's!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1221722/prototype-chmodlabs-gtx-580-laser-cut-antec-khuler-620-920-cooler-mount-prototype/90#post_16668120
- chmodlabs


----------



## s1rrah

EDIT: I found this already addressed in an earlier post. Seams it *is* a lubricant of sorts...

Hey ...

I just picked up an Antec 620 at Micro Center and after taking it out of the box and inspecting the pump closely, I can see a small amount of shiny liquid just around where the hoses terminate into the pump (where the little swivel is to allow the tubing to rotate on the pump) ... it's a tiny tiny amount and feels sort of slippery like a lubricant of sorts.

Has anybody seen this before? Since it's in the joint area of that little swivel, I thought it might just be a lubricant to allow the swivel easier play but it could also be a leak? It was around both swivel points on the outside of the pump and after removing it with a corner of a paper towel, I noticed a teeny bit more appear as I worked the swivel gently back and forth.

I'm not real excited about dropping this thing in my case until I sort that one out so any tips/comments would be appreciated.

Thanks..
.joel


----------



## ruarcs30

Nothing to worry about

Its just, cant rember the name for it in english, but it is what we use in all joints.... grease is perhaps the word? Just clean it up or dont, you realy dont have to! It is not like this is going to drop on somehting, it is quite hard and not fluid!


----------



## Airrick10

Here's an update on my AK-620 with the new Cougar fans...I used to have some Gelid fans on it and while they were quite good, I think these have better airflow and are a bit quieter.


----------



## Naysay3rz

I come in peace....























count me in....


----------



## superericla

I used to use a 920 but now I tore it apart to use as a 4 pin fan cable Y-splitter and I'm using the radiator in my custom watercooling setup. Even though I'm not using it as a whole, the 920 is still being put to use!


----------



## Zerodameaon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> I used to use a 920 but now I tore it apart to use as a 4 pin fan cable Y-splitter and I'm using the radiator in my custom watercooling setup. Even though I'm not using it as a whole, the 920 is still being put to use!


If no one else disagrees toss up some pictures of the setup.


----------



## TheBirdman74

can anybody tell me if i'll be fine using this coolant? http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/Product.aspx?C=1162&ID=1641

or if it will cause issues for the pump and internals? thinking to add a reservoir.


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zerodameaon*
> 
> If no one else disagrees toss up some pictures of the setup.


I'm still waiting to pick up a Switch 810 but in the mean time here's my build so far.









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!









Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *superericla*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Zerodameaon*
> 
> If no one else disagrees toss up some pictures of the setup.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still waiting to pick up a Switch 810 but in the mean time here's my build so far.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> *snip*
Click to expand...









thats the general plan for my build too, except I'm using the Phantom, reversing the MB tray, and probably relocating the PSU/ HDD/radiators to a pedestal underneath or similar. Yours turned out great so far! come back and tell us how you like the newest case by NZXT!


----------



## Sophath

How high should i be able to overclock an unlocked 960t with this??
What fans would be good with this cooler.


----------



## BWG

For that chip, stock fans are fine, and as high as an oc as the chip can handle. I am putting mine on my 960T X6 unlock soon. I replaced my 920 on my i7 with a H100. -8C on the top temps on 3 out of 4 cores. I cannot wait to get the 920 on the X6 because it only has a Cooler Master Hyper TX3 now. I am around 59C at 4GHz and it won't hold it that hot while folding 24/7. The 920 will certainly do the trick. I can give you my temps this weekend if you'd like. I have to finish a work unit first though. I cannot stop the rig or it may not finish on time.


----------



## Sophath

forgot to mention i am using a 620 on the build.


----------



## BWG

Still will max it out, but GT AP 15s would be good.


----------



## noktrnl

I ended up getting about 73c on a 2500k with 4.5oc running a 10 pass Intel Burn Test with the 620. Going to lap it this week, new fans next week and see if I can get lower temps/higher clock


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Sophath*
> 
> How high should i be able to overclock an unlocked 960t with this??
> What fans would be good with this cooler.


My Actual 1090T I have successfully OCed to 4GHz, but board/OS Issues made it unstable after about 1hr. Get those random BSOD's AFTER all the stability tests are done







3.8GHz was completely stable, and I never saw temps above 32C, even with my AK-920 on custom settings. Wound't try Silent though, lol.


----------



## TheBirdman74

oh crap. my new replacement one has started making that crap noise again, this time the noise stops when I lay the pc flat on its side, anybody got a solution to this crap noise?


----------



## reaver83

TBH, mine could be making the crap noise too and I wouldn't know. I got a crap noise in my HDD that overpowers the noise my AK-920 fans make at max! If I could afford the downtime of an RMA for my HDD, I would send it back to Western Digital!


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWG*
> 
> Guys, do you think these will do better than the stock fans?
> 
> 
> 
> Model
> Brand
> 
> Scythe
> 
> Model
> 
> SY1225SL12SH
> 
> Spec
> Type
> 
> "Slipstream" Case Fan
> 
> Compatibility
> 
> Case
> 
> Fan Size
> 
> 120mm
> 
> Bearing Type
> 
> Sleeve
> 
> RPM
> 
> 1900 ±10% RPM
> 
> Air Flow
> 
> 110.31 CFM
> 
> Noise Level
> 
> 37.00 dBA
> 
> Power Connector
> 
> 3-pin (3-pin to 4pin adapter included)
> 
> Color
> 
> Black
> 
> Physical Spec
> Dimensions
> 
> 120 x 120 x 25mm


Doubtful. I don't really like those scythe fans. They are loud and have low static pressure. I have 2 of them in my case. Kama Flows are a bit better, but still I prefer the stock fan. I think the only good scythe fans are Gentle Typhoons.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> 
> Hello all.
> I've gone for what might be an unorthodox setup, with using the top of a Fractal Design R3 as intake, with a single pull setup with my H2O 620, as attached. My rationale is that the radiator will need cool-ish air to be pulled through it in order for it to keep temperatures down. I have two intakes at the front of the case also, hopefully providing a stream of air for my 6950.
> Also, I am finding the the stock 620 fan at 1350RPM (lowest) to be very noisy, I'm thinking because of the air pushing against the grill on the rear of the case?
> Any tips appreciated!


Well any fan is going to have noise by pushing air through the grills. If it's too noisy you should consider some typhoons - pretty much the gold standard when it comes to radiator fans. I might suggest flipping the top fan and using it as exhaust, and adding a side fan for more intake. This would also blow air over your GPU.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> A little update. My Kuhler is now using a push-pull with two Gelid PWM Slient 12 fans (1500rpm). Gave it a quick overclock to 4.3 and ran prime95 for like an hour, came @ ~ 55 degrees. However, it's now winter so it may differ a little in the summer (probably not by much). Still, I'm quite satisfied with these fans. They run @ 700rpm in idle (Gelid presents accurate readings I shall say!), meaning they're not audible. In full load it also seems very very reasonable. Considering I'd probably play a game when that happens sums up to really good results overall. I'm now tempted to try Akasa's new Silent fans, peeking @ 1600 rpm. Also wondering if keeping the black scheme for the Kuhler would look nicer or not, cause these Gelids are white


I've always wondered how those fans would do because they match the fractal design case which I have wanted for a long time now. Thanks for the brief review.


----------



## reaver83

I'm with Grasshoppa on this one. Even though I'd like quieter fans, I don't think, as far as a push/pull setup, I could find anything better than the stock fans as far as performance/noise. GL finding Gentle Typhoons, as most places either don't have them, or charge $12+USD for each.

Hoping all of this will change once I get my NZXT Phantom modded and everything put in, then mod the Kuhler to add a Reservoir/Pump that the pump wont be connected until I find a decent CPU and NB block (those being the 2 hottest parts of my computer). My only thought is will the Res/pump allow water to flow through it w/o power to it? Guess I could hook it up to the Phantom's Fan controller









Basically using the Kuhler 920 as a stepping stone for a full custom water-cooled system... At least the Radiator would be reusable, right? I can always add a 2nd, larger (say 200MM) radiator.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Yeah the rad is reusable but is it worth tearing apart a nice unit to get the rad? Imo, if you can spare the change, you should save the unit and just get the extra parts if you're going that route.


----------



## reaver83

Sadly, I bought the 920 for the sole reason that I would use the bit's and pieces to slowly work my way into a real build. It was my intentions all along. It's been pretty good to me, but it must be sacrificed in the name of Progress. My whole thing was, I knew that the budget in this build was gonna be tight, and I would have to make Slow changes due to funding. After seeing PB4UGO's res mod, I knew it could be done, and thats what made me buy it. I only bought the 920 cause it came with PWM fans, not that it was controllable.

Like I said though, it has been a darn good little starter kit, but now it's time to play with big toys







I may reuse the 920 pump/heatsink/USB connection for my GTX460, Like Rage19420 did, maybe as just a cheap alternative to buying a GPU block. But I'd throw a Northbridge heatsink inline with it cause, lets face it, my NB stays cookin. It would serve to keep the flow rate even through the loop. DW, it's still gonna be a while before I attempt this cause right now, I am still in the idea stage of my case mod for my NZXT Phantom. It will be my 1st MAJOR case mod, so wish me luck







I'll post plenty of pics during the process in my build log, and I'll link to it once I get started.


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Hey all

Requesting permission to join.


----------



## h2o620guy

Hey Guys,

would also like permission to join

sorry 4 bad image had to use phone camera, lost my dang cord for my digital one


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SvenTheBerserK*
> 
> Hey all
> 
> Requesting permission to join.


Nice choice in Motherboard, I got the same one. Fair warning, keep tabs on the Northbridge temps, as they run anywhere from 40-60C. Had to RMA one after 8 months use.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Sadly, I bought the 920 for the sole reason that I would use the bit's and pieces to slowly work my way into a real build. It was my intentions all along. It's been pretty good to me, but it must be sacrificed in the name of Progress. My whole thing was, I knew that the budget in this build was gonna be tight, and I would have to make Slow changes due to funding. After seeing PB4UGO's res mod, I knew it could be done, and thats what made me buy it. I only bought the 920 cause it came with PWM fans, not that it was controllable.
> 
> Like I said though, it has been a darn good little starter kit, but now it's time to play with big toys
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I may reuse the 920 pump/heatsink/USB connection for my GTX460, Like Rage19420 did, maybe as just a cheap alternative to buying a GPU block. But I'd throw a Northbridge heatsink inline with it cause, lets face it, my NB stays cookin. It would serve to keep the flow rate even through the loop. DW, it's still gonna be a while before I attempt this cause right now, I am still in the idea stage of my case mod for my NZXT Phantom. It will be my 1st MAJOR case mod, so wish me luck:thumb: I'll post plenty of pics during the process in my build log, and I'll link to it once I get started.


Better start sooner than later, things takes time as they say in the army


----------



## LegendMask

This thing is really good for beginners and works pretty well


----------



## grassh0ppa

for you guys requesting to join there is a public spread sheet. I used to have it embeded but im not sure what happened... anyway, when its up youcan just add yourselves


----------



## Jyve

Would it be possible to swap the 920's radiator with a slim 180mm rad?
If so:

How difficult
How messy
Would I need to add more coolant

I would love to run the 920 on a 180mm front intake on my silverstone tj08. I would have gotten the
ps07, but the tj08 looks better imo.

Any advice on how or if to do this is much appreciated!


----------



## h2o620guy

loving this WC keeping my i3 540 oc'ed @ 4Ghz at 51C on load


----------



## LegendMask

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *h2o620guy*
> 
> loving this WC keeping my i3 540 oc'ed @ 4Ghz at 51C on load


Nice are you using the 620 or 920?


----------



## h2o620guy

the 620.

spur of the moment purchase. and i don't regret it


----------



## AstralReaper

So guys...I have a 620. I want to water cool my 560 TI alongside my CPU. Should I just get a water cooling kit, or sell the 620, or modify it, or buy a 920 for CPU and use 620 on GPU, or other way around? It should also be noted that I want to SLI in the future when the prices go down.


----------



## reaver83

You could do this mod...


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> You could do this mod...


Yes..Yes...That could work...just have to see if I can remove enough of my HDD Cage to mount them in the front like that.

Now to decide if I want a 920 on the CPU or just a 2nd 620.


----------



## K62-RIG

go the 920 AstralReaper. You'll benefit from the thicker radiator mate.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K62-RIG*
> 
> go the 920 AstralReaper. You'll benefit from the thicker radiator mate.


Has anyone tested the 920 and 620 under the exact same conditions? Same settup,same room temp etc. Whit two fans on 620,how mutch diffrence in performance is it?


----------



## Kolmain

is the stock fan adequate or should I upgrade it to a 120mm Sickleflow Blue LED fan? (I wouldnt mind a little more blue led







)


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kolmain*
> 
> is the stock fan adequate or should I upgrade it to a 120mm Sickleflow Blue LED fan? (I wouldnt mind a little more blue led
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


Well as all experts know, blue LEDs make for lower temps in all situations









But in seriousness, I find the default 620 fan to be quite noisey. I personally plan to put either a Noctua or a Scythe typhoon on mine at some point in the near future.

But at that, I would recommend trying it for yourself and see how you find it. It is more than adequate for its purpose.


----------



## Kolmain

Any suggestions (links?) for a nice silent fan?


----------



## m00moo

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lukeman3000*
> 
> How long did it take before you heard back from them? I haven't heard got a response back from my original email yet.
> Also, where is the serial # located for this thing? It's not talking about the number that's on the barcode is it?


Luke,

Its been awhile since your last post regarding the RMA, any update on what is happening? are they going to RMA the lapped unit? I'm looking to lap mine but worried that I will be voiding a 3 year warranty to lose a few degrees....

Thank!


----------



## 271973

Does anyone know of any cheap places in the UK to get additional mounting screws for the radiator on the 620?

I contacted Antec and they quoted me something like 10-15 euro.. for 4 screws..


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Does anyone know of any cheap places in the UK to get additional mounting screws for the radiator on the 620?
> I contacted Antec and they quoted me something like 10-15 euro.. for 4 screws..


Just find it at an store. Take whit you 1 original and show it to the shopkeeper and he would get 1 for you. shouldn't cost mutch! I found some i had at home.


----------



## m00moo

I believe are the same fit mate. 4 for £2.78 delivered via ebay

http://goo.gl/oLRpH. I've been using 2 screws on each Push/Pull fan on the opposite corners and it works a treat







Lots of people do the same with no problems!


----------



## Jyve

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jyve*
> 
> Would it be possible to swap the 920's radiator with a slim 180mm rad?
> If so:
> How difficult
> How messy
> Would I need to add more coolant
> I would love to run the 920 on a 180mm front intake on my silverstone tj08. I would have gotten the
> ps07, but the tj08 looks better imo.
> Any advice on how or if to do this is much appreciated!


nobody?


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Rpm should be fixed around 1400 rpm. Check my video few pages back and compare with your unit.


hi, this is the only way to fix the clicky sound?


----------



## Naysay3rz

modded antec kuhler...


----------



## EliteReplay

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Naysay3rz*
> 
> modded antec kuhler...


very nice, btw do u have the clicky sound in the pump?


----------



## reaver83

take the radiator lose, Hold higher than the CPU block/pump and shakey shakey, (preferably w/power going and no power to computer, just the pump running). Just don't tug on the hoses too hard. This will put the little bit of air at the top of the radiator. Then, mount radiator with lines at bottom, just to be safe.


----------



## jorgerp86

Go ahead and add me to the member list. Got a push/pull configuration on the 620 cooling my i5. I love this thing, so simple to use!


----------



## 271973

Which fans/RPM are you using?


----------



## MrG pc

Hello guys,

Requesting permission to join.


----------



## Dwood

I want in


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dwood*
> 
> I want in
> 
> *Snip*


You did the mod to a GTX680? ALREADY!? Couldn't wait or a water block to come out?


----------



## Dwood

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> You did the mod to a GTX680? ALREADY!? Couldn't wait or a water block to come out?


Waterblock requires alot more money plus breaking down my loop, this thing does an awesome job, check the links in my signature for more info.


----------



## Paul_M

Finished my new rig 5 min ago, i just want to join the club, more pictures later!







:thumb:


----------



## s1rrah

Glad I didn't take the 620 back, now. It does a hell of a job cooling a GTX580:

...



...



...


----------



## Dwood

Man thats a good looking mounting bracket you got there, where did you get that thing?


----------



## Willhemmens

Here's my testing results of the 620 and 920.

Overclocked - 4GHz 1.456v
Idle load
Antec 920 Silent 21 46
Antec 920 Extreme 16 36
Antec 620 25 46

Stock - 3.2GHz
Idle load
Antec 920 Silent 21 38
Antec 920 Extreme 15 26
Antec 620 14 31

I've also attached my Excel spread sheet with a load of other coolers for comparison.
Ambient was kept at 18C (+-1C).

Hopefully someone finds this useful.

Temps sorted.xlsx 12k .xlsx file


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrG pc*
> 
> Hello guys,
> Requesting permission to join.


Hello! congratulations for the work, I have the antec 920 and I want to change the pipes to move the radiator, you may tell me that I have to buy tubes? I would need the size esatte.Dalla photos can not be seen if you put the hose clamps to tighten, in the case that clamps did you use? I have seen that we know that we also add a cup so I improve temperature.Per also as regards the temperature with the work you have done better? I apologize for my English is not quite correct hello.


----------



## Mknopfler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Here's my testing results of the 620 and 920.
> Overclocked - 4GHz 1.456v
> Idle load
> Antec 920 Silent 21 46
> Antec 920 Extreme 16 36
> Antec 620 25 46
> Stock - 3.2GHz
> Idle load
> Antec 920 Silent 21 38
> Antec 920 Extreme 15 26
> Antec 620 14 31
> I've also attached my Excel spread sheet with a load of other coolers for comparison.
> Ambient was kept at 18C (+-1C).
> Hopefully someone finds this useful.
> 
> Temps sorted.xlsx 12k .xlsx file


What are the fans did you use?

Best regards.


----------



## Willhemmens

Stock fans, unless stated.


----------



## Mknopfler

Thanks!!


----------



## Willhemmens

Hopefully you find the results useful.


----------



## ruarcs30

[/B]
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mknopfler*
> 
> What are the fans did you use?
> Best regards.


What do you tink? Im 100% certain he didn't mean stock! Or else he would have sayed that he used the crappy stock fans, wouldn't he?









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Willhemmens*
> 
> Stock fans, unless stated.


Of course









But you might want to put into what 620 does whit pull/push, that would be interesting! Wondering what the diffrence between push/pull 620 vs 920. The latter will ofcourse win,but whit how mutch?


----------



## lightsout

Whats up guys. Just snagged one of these for my 680. Just wondering how is the fan noise wise. Looking to keep a nice quiet system and want this fan to be fairly silent.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys. Just snagged one of these for my 680. Just wondering how is the fan noise wise. Looking to keep a nice quiet system and want this fan to be fairly silent.


Hey lightsout, welcome to the Antec 620/920 crowd here. So now we have 2 computer components in common







I can tell you, if your going for silent, the stock fans probably won't be a good choice. Most people pair these with the Gentle Typhoons or similar. If you have the 920, you can set it for silent, but it will cool just as well as an air cooler. Basically depends on finding a happy medium of cool vs. quiet. Speaking of, if you have cool &quiet or intel equivelent on and you run via Motherboard pins, turn it off and set that pinout for 100% for pump to run full power. Personally, I found a Fan header to Molex plug to power my Pump, just so I know it's getting 100% all the time.


----------



## 271973

I find the stock 620 fan to be particularly noisy. It's not an annoying noise per-say - not whiny but at the same time not a gentle 'whoosh' sound. I'm thinking of upgrading to some Gentle Typhoons but I believe that Noctua fans are the best for 'silent' setup? Not tried them myself though!


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Whats up guys. Just snagged one of these for my 680. Just wondering how is the fan noise wise. Looking to keep a nice quiet system and want this fan to be fairly silent.
> 
> 
> 
> Hey lightsout, welcome to the Antec 620/920 crowd here. So now we have 2 computer components in common
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can tell you, if your going for silent, the stock fans probably won't be a good choice. Most people pair these with the Gentle Typhoons or similar. If you have the 920, you can set it for silent, but it will cool just as well as an air cooler. Basically depends on finding a happy medium of cool vs. quiet. Speaking of, if you have cool &quiet or intel equivelent on and you run via Motherboard pins, turn it off and set that pinout for 100% for pump to run full power. Personally, I found a Fan header to Molex plug to power my Pump, just so I know it's getting 100% all the time.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm not looking for total silence but don't want it loud either. I grabbed an artic cool F12. Not the greatest rad fan but we wil see. I have some blademaster's which are good for rads but they are pretty loud. Didn't really want ot use them in this build.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> I find the stock 620 fan to be particularly noisy. It's not an annoying noise per-say - not whiny but at the same time not a gentle 'whoosh' sound. I'm thinking of upgrading to some Gentle Typhoons but I believe that Noctua fans are the best for 'silent' setup? Not tried them myself though!


I'm too cheap to spend $20 on fans. I know they are the best. But I just can never bring myself to do it.


----------



## 271973

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks. I'm not looking for total silence but don't want it loud either. I grabbed an artic cool F12. Not the greatest rad fan but we wil see. I have some blademaster's which are good for rads but they are pretty loud. Didn't really want ot use them in this build.
> I'm too cheap to spend $20 on fans. I know they are the best. But I just can never bring myself to do it.


You're probably best for going to straight "silent" fans, or very low RPM fans then. Or use a fan controller









In terms of positions and number of fans, I like this article and it seems thorough and makes some decent conclusions: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *enting*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Thanks. I'm not looking for total silence but don't want it loud either. I grabbed an artic cool F12. Not the greatest rad fan but we wil see. I have some blademaster's which are good for rads but they are pretty loud. Didn't really want ot use them in this build.
> I'm too cheap to spend $20 on fans. I know they are the best. But I just can never bring myself to do it.
> 
> 
> 
> You're probably best for going to straight "silent" fans, or very low RPM fans then. Or use a fan controller
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In terms of positions and number of fans, I like this article and it seems thorough and makes some decent conclusions: http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2012/02/10/the-big-cooling-investigation/1
Click to expand...

Thanks. Yah I got a fan that is supposed to be very quiet. I plan to hook it up to the motherboard and control it via software.


----------



## dartuil

Do you guys modded your kuhler 620 or 920 tubes?


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dartuil*
> 
> Do you guys modded your kuhler 620 or 920 tubes?


Plan on using mine as a starter watercooled setup, starting with add a 5.25" Drive bay Reservor, then add a NB block, then upgrade Radiator, then finally doing away with the Antec Pump/CPU cooler all together. I imagine changing the hoses will be included in this as well.


----------



## jam71

Hello, I'm going to change the tubes to my antec 920 and I would know the exact inside diameter of the tubes that I buy, I would not go wrong with hello


----------



## reaver83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Hello, I'm going to change the tubes to my antec 920 and I would know the exact inside diameter of the tubes that I buy, I would not go wrong with hello


I'll refer you back to *THIS POST* only because this hasn't been brought up in a while and it actually tooke me digging an hour to find it this time. in this he said he upgraded FROM 3/8" to 1/4", which means the original ID Tube is 3/8". There ya have it, have fun


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> I'll refer you back to *THIS POST* only because this hasn't been brought up in a while and it actually tooke me digging an hour to find it this time. in this he said he upgraded FROM 3/8" to 1/4", which means the original ID Tube is 3/8". There ya have it, have fun:thumb:


ok thank


----------



## homestyle

How does this cooler compare to the megahalems with 1200 rpm fans?


----------



## lightsout

Is there a list with temps somewhere for these. Looking to OC a 2600k to around 4.7ish. Wondering what to expect with one fan on the 620.


----------



## lightsout

Sorry double posting. Anyone hitting 5ghz with a 2600k with one of these? Do you guys think it can hang?


----------



## Endergemini

Hey all, just reading up on this group and hopefully soon my new build will be finished and I can add myself to the 920 club! Read through the first 50 pages or so and it seems like a lot of people are recommending the Gentle Typhoons to replace the stock fans? If only Noctuas weren't so ugly I might try those. Anyone had any luck with any pwm fans or does it really matter? And the proper way to help avoid clicking is to put the rad above the block and shake the air up out of it correct? This is my first build since the C2Duo days and so much has changed in just enough ways to make me unsure of myself haha. Thanks for any info and sorry if I've missed any obvious answers!


----------



## furyn9

Well I just installed the antec 920 , and that thing its wayyyyyyyyyy to loud ( Extreme) I gonna use my old cooler master fan , wish are wayyyyy to silent


----------



## reaver83

Sugestion, try to find a happy medium with a custom range-set for the 920, will quiet it down alot, but on max load it will still be loud. It'll at least be quiet while surfing the web, or doing minor tasks.


----------



## furyn9

Well I'll try that but when the fan goes around 1300 rpm it start to make some noise ( like pitch noise , resonance ) I'll gonna try it again ,also I gonna replaced the thermal paste for arctic silver 5 .


----------



## reaver83

Hmm, did you make sure to put the washers on it? What I did for mine was:

Fan<Washers<Case<Radiator<Washers<Fan

Pro tip, if you do it this way, get a Elmers Glue stick and coat the washer and stick it to the fan to hold it in place, then put the screws in.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Hmm, did you make sure to put the washers on it? What I did for mine was:
> 
> Fan
> Pro tip, if you do it this way, get a Elmers Glue stick and coat the washer and stick it to the fan to hold it in place, then put the screws in.


Washer? What is that? Can you explain the word to me? It didnt find it in my english-norwegain dictonary


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Hmm, did you make sure to put the washers on it? What I did for mine was:
> 
> Fan
> Pro tip, if you do it this way, get a Elmers Glue stick and coat the washer and stick it to the fan to hold it in place, then put the screws in.
> 
> 
> 
> Washer? What is that? Can you explain the word to me? It didnt find it in my english-norwegain dictonary
Click to expand...


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*


Thanks! New word learned







Skive in norwegian, strange my dictonary didnt have it









Edit: LOL! but all i apparently had to do was write washers in google and i would have found out. Im just figuring out how to use internet, so you will have to exuse me for my ignorance please,hehe


----------



## Ecopot

well I started out modding a budget HP computer..not really sure how I ended up with a water cooled rig..lol


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks! New word learned
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Skive in norwegian, strange my dictonary didnt have it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: LOL! but all i apparently had to do was write washers in google and i would have found out. Im just figuring out how to use internet, so you will have to exuse me for my ignorance please,hehe
Click to expand...

No worries man. I wouldn't dare try to hang out on a forum in a different language. So I commend you.


----------



## Endergemini

Hey everyone, decided to finally build my new rig the other night and install the Antec 920. A few things I must say, attaching the washers between the fan/rad was pretty much a nightmare for me lol. Longer screws would definitely have helped, or using a gluestick to attach the washers to the rad before installation as someone had suggested.

What custom settings are you guys using that balances cooling/noise?

I gave my 2500k an overclock to 4.5ghz and the cores usually idle around 32C and under prime95 blend test hits about 62c. I'm hoping these temps go down a bit once my IC Diamond 7 compound cures.

Pics coming soon, once my camera decides it wants to cooperate!


----------



## staryoshi

Semi on topic... I used to love IC Diamond 7... Until I cleaned it off of the CPU / heatsink. That stuff works great, but it stains and scratches metal surfaces like nobody's business. My favorite TIM to date is OCZ Freeze









I'm close to ordering a Kuhler 920 to replace my 620 when I go to Ivy, despite not needing to... I found one for $85







I am in the process of building a system that I can go for months without touching... which would be quite a feat for me. If I do buy a 920, my girlfriend's Corsair H50 (In a Sugo 05) will get an upgrade







I'm worried that she'd be able to hear the gentle buzz of the motor over the push-pull AP13s, though.


----------



## lightsout

So you think the 620 is an upgrade over the h50? Aren't they pretty much the same thing?


----------



## staryoshi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So you think the 620 is an upgrade over the h50? Aren't they pretty much the same thing?


The shorter CPU block and more flexible tubing alone makes it an improvement for a SFF build. My understanding is that the pump is better, too.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> So you think the 620 is an upgrade over the h50? Aren't they pretty much the same thing?
> 
> 
> 
> The shorter CPU block and more flexible tubing alone makes it an improvement for a SFF build. My understanding is that the pump is better, too.
Click to expand...

Yah I most definitely prefer the tubing. H50 was a pain to work with.


----------



## von rottes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecopot*
> 
> well I started out modding a budget HP computer..not really sure how I ended up with a water cooled rig..lol
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Oh my.... that is pretty o////o
The UV and blue look much better then my green.


----------



## asmodyus

Okay I have had a 920 and I just recently reinstalled it and notice something I never noticed before.

So I put of fans outside pulling air in the case and the fan inside pulling also from the outside.









What I noticed is that the 2nd fan the inside sometime stops or oscillates really bad is this normal? Becuase I never noticed it beforeand the oustside fans runs all the never stops or oscillates.


----------



## asmodyus

So the fan stopped all togather and now the software program is not registering the DB and Fan Speed. Do I have to have both fans working or plugged in the RPM Control, and DB noise level. The Pump Speed and liquid temperature still work.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *asmodyus*
> 
> So the fan stopped all togather and now the software program is not registering the DB and Fan Speed. Do I have to have both fans working or plugged in the RPM Control, and DB noise level. The Pump Speed and liquid temperature still work.


Try a different fan?


----------



## Koniakki

Another new happy 920 owner..

Cooler installed fine on an MIVGZ. But not without almost going deaf until I manage to installed the Chill Control software(I actually liked that demonic sound). That thing pushes a LOT of air at the extreme. Config: Stock fans, P/P exhaust.

So after it's software was installed, I immediately change RGB to Blue(255) only, set liquid Fan Ramp to 28(30 is better but I actually like some noise) and Full Fan liquid to 35.

Of course values will differ from user to user since different countries, weather, room temp etc. But with the custom I don't even hear it.
Once loaded it does become a "bit" loud but not to the point that bothers me.

Overall experience: I damn love it. Happy owner.


----------



## staryoshi

I ordered a Corsair H100







The Kuhler 620 will be going in my girlfriend's ITX build to replace a Corsair H50. I nearly went for the 920, but the H100 makes more sense from a configuration/airflow management stand point... Too bad Antec hasn't utilized Asetek's 570 LX yet, I much prefer their blocks and tubing.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *staryoshi*
> 
> I ordered a Corsair H100
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The Kuhler 620 will be going in my girlfriend's ITX build to replace a Corsair H50. I nearly went for the 920, but the H100 makes more sense from a configuration/airflow management stand point... Too bad Antec hasn't utilized Asetek's 570 LX yet, I much prefer their blocks and tubing.


h100 is better than the 920, no doubt about it.

Only "bad" thing is that the have made some witch are faulty if you understand what i mean,cant find a better word for it.
So some have to rma it. I ques more than normal since Corsair sayed that they had an producing error on some. If i dont remeber wrong, it is my little brother wiho has the h100, it was the fans witch didn't work after alittle while, so he had to rma it. Great service at least, fast as well. He got it in under a week when he rma it. Pritty impressive from Corsair I must say!


----------



## reaver83

Probebly the same issue people had with the Antec 920, USB drivers failing to install properly. I partly blame this on the fact that Asetek has not made any newer Firmware for their liquid coolers since 2009! This means that they are using Vista Drivers, not Windows 7, and last time I checked, some things made for Vista do not cooperate with Windows 7.


----------



## K62-RIG

I am loving these temps from my 920. Frickin Awesome


----------



## Rdany

Silverstone grandia gd04 with an Antec Kuhler H20 620

Tight fit and still in progress.


----------



## Rdany

home made reservoir



cut out fan to be able to fit the radiator



still testing for leaks until my new psu and tv tuner card arive.



Also this is my first water cooling attempt.


----------



## reaver83

wow, 1 step further than me and moved the radiator outside! Very nice.


----------



## golfergolfer

YESSSSSS Rdany I was just wondering about modding the 620 (920 actually but same thing) what is the exact tubing sized you used? and besides the tubing what else did you have to get?


----------



## Ecopot

What does having a reservoir do? Does it help with cooling since you can hold more water?


----------



## Anusha

i just don't understand why my Kuhler 620 isn't living up to the reviews. either they have a very low ambient temp when reviewing or something is not right with my setup. help!

i installed fans everywhere in my Raven RV03 case to see if i was suffocating the rad. it seems to have a positive effect on the temps, but i wanted to see a much more dramatic difference.

previously, i had just the bottom 180mm dual intake fans (stock) and the PULL fan on the rad (Scythe Kama Flow 2 1900RPM as i couldn't stand the stock fan, but have measured the difference to be less than 2C between the two). the rad is mounted on the top. the pump is not controlled by software or bios, so i would expect it to run at full speed.

note: i do not run the bottom intakes at full blaze as it would be be irritating. just low speed.

now i have
- 2 enermax t.b.silent 120mm intakes in front close to the motherboard (there are two places we can mount the fan on the Raven RV03. one towards the front panel, one towards the inner case) remember, the CFM is very low on these fans. main purpose was to give cool air to the CPU area. (the rad isn't far away)
- 1 scythe kama flow2 1400RPM exhaust at the back because the graphic cards put back hot air into the case (wrong choice of graphics cards for this case!)
- 1 scythe kama flow2 1400RPM on the side panel for hard drives (just because i had one lying around. should not affect the CPU temps.)
- also attached the top exhaust fan which came with the case (Silverstone something), as the push fan for the rad. so now i have push-pull on the rad. one silverstone stock case fan pushing and one Scythe Kama Flow 2 1900RPM pulling.

i am still seeing temps as high as 72C at least on one core while running BF3. not even stress testing, though the temp difference is like 5C between gaming and stress testing.

my ambient room temp is like 23-25C these days. 2600K at 4.4GHz with max Vcore @1.32V (which i think is pretty low to give 75C-ish load temps eh?). this is at least 50C delta. would say about 55C when stress testing. Prime95 blend test that is.

while i don't think is has something to do with incorrect seating, as the rad gets pretty warm meaning that the heat is properly transferred from the CPU to the block, i wonder if my judgment can be wrong as the little blue mounting clips got cracked the first time i mounted the block. >_<

what do you guys think i should do to improve the temps?


----------



## Ecopot

Have you tried the rad on the back exhaust port as intake? Or move it somewhere else it can pull fresh air from the outside, instead of hot air from inside the case.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecopot*
> 
> Have you tried the rad on the back exhaust port as intake? Or move it somewhere else it can pull fresh air from the outside, instead of hot air from inside the case.


if you checked my case (Raven RV03), i cannot mount it on the back - definitely not as intakes - because it would heat up the VGA cards.









i can put it in the front drive bays as i don't use them (this is how you can get cool air in with this case) but isn't one advantage of having such a cooler (compared to an air cooler) is that you can put the hot air out of the case?

anyways, since mounting the rad in the front bays is pretty time consuming, i would just move the rad outside the case and see how it works. i hope the tubes are long enough. (should try to cover the side panel - of course cannot screw it up - just to make sure everything else is kept constant.

btw, does the block get pretty warm when working at full speed? not hot, but warm enough to have an effect on CPU temps?


----------



## Rdany

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *golfergolfer*
> 
> YESSSSSS Rdany I was just wondering about modding the 620 (920 actually but same thing) what is the exact tubing sized you used? and besides the tubing what else did you have to get?


Hi I used 8mm ID and 10mm OD tubing but could be a little smaller maybe a mm or two on the ID.
I made a reservoir out of a snack container (1,99 for set of 3) with 2 compression fittings and used Zip ties to secure the fittings to the pump/block and radiator.
Cut the fan grill and a bit extra from the case to be able to fit the radiator .
The fan is inside the case pulling air from outside through radiator inside the case.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> i wonder if my judgment can be wrong as the little blue mounting clips got cracked the first time i mounted the block. >_<
> what do you guys think i should do to improve the temps?


It doesnt matter that the mounting clips are cracked. You get the needed pressure before they start to slipp to eatch side if you understand what I mean. Early in the morning so my english thinking isn't that good,heehe

I mailed them about it, I was hoping to improve performance even more. I am very happy whit my 620, get better temps than the test I have seen done on simular cpu that mine,though at higher clock speed. Whit the 620, the temp on the air flowing through the radiator need to be quite cool to get great temps. The small radiator also heats up quite faster than the 920, but should have almost the same highest temps as the 920 whit the 620, potentionaly


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecopot*
> 
> What does having a reservoir do? Does it help with cooling since you can hold more water?


No, it's mostly for aesthetic appeal. It also makes it so air bubbles don't get caught in the radiator/pump which may improve cooling performance a bit.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> i wonder if my judgment can be wrong as the little blue mounting clips got cracked the first time i mounted the block. >_<
> what do you guys think i should do to improve the temps?
> 
> 
> 
> It doesnt matter that the mounting clips are cracked. You get the needed pressure before they start to slipp to eatch side if you understand what I mean. Early in the morning so my english thinking isn't that good,heehe
Click to expand...

I understood you alright.

I wonder if I should clean the rad. Seems like its got some dust.


----------



## Ecopot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> if you checked my case (Raven RV03), i cannot mount it on the back - definitely not as intakes - because it would heat up the VGA cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can put it in the front drive bays as i don't use them (this is how you can get cool air in with this case) but isn't one advantage of having such a cooler (compared to an air cooler) is that you can put the hot air out of the case?
> 
> anyways, since mounting the rad in the front bays is pretty time consuming, i would just move the rad outside the case and see how it works. i hope the tubes are long enough. (should try to cover the side panel - of course cannot screw it up - just to make sure everything else is kept constant.
> 
> btw, does the block get pretty warm when working at full speed? not hot, but warm enough to have an effect on CPU temps?


Not too sure about the block temp, don't think it would make much of a difference though. For me changing the rad around made a 3-4c difference. Also a good fan helps too.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecopot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> if you checked my case (Raven RV03), i cannot mount it on the back - definitely not as intakes - because it would heat up the VGA cards.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i can put it in the front drive bays as i don't use them (this is how you can get cool air in with this case) but isn't one advantage of having such a cooler (compared to an air cooler) is that you can put the hot air out of the case?
> 
> anyways, since mounting the rad in the front bays is pretty time consuming, i would just move the rad outside the case and see how it works. i hope the tubes are long enough. (should try to cover the side panel - of course cannot screw it up - just to make sure everything else is kept constant.
> 
> btw, does the block get pretty warm when working at full speed? not hot, but warm enough to have an effect on CPU temps?
> 
> 
> 
> Not too sure about the block temp, don't think it would make much of a difference though. For me changing the rad around made a 3-4c difference. Also a good fan helps too.
Click to expand...

By good fan you mean AP15 right? They are so hard to find even though you would assume Japan should have them everywhere. And the ones available are pretty expensive as well.

I would not mind mounting the rad in the drive bay, but I don't wanna push hot air into the case.


----------



## Ecopot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> By good fan you mean AP15 right? They are so hard to find even though you would assume Japan should have them everywhere. And the ones available are pretty expensive as well.
> I would not mind mounting the rad in the drive bay, but I don't wanna push hot air into the case.


I'm in Japan too. I like the PC shops here a lot better then the ones that I've been to in the US, found some really great deals even with the Yen being so expensive. But, the AP15 fans is one thing that I haven't been able to find yet either. For now I'm using the stock fan and a Scythe Kaze Jyuni hooked up to a fan controler.

Here my fan layout


I have my rad fans pushing out, but since its on the bottom HDD bays its getting fresh air form the bottom fan. I originally had them as intake, but then it would heat up my GPU too much, if your drive bays are above the GPU you may not have that problem running it as in take.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecopot*
> 
> I'm in Japan too. I like the PC shops here a lot better then the ones that I've been to in the US, found some really great deals even with the Yen being so expensive. But, the AP15 fans is one thing that I haven't been able to find yet either. For now I'm using the stock fan and a Scythe Kaze Jyuni hooked up to a fan controler.
> Here my fan layout
> 
> I have my rad fans pushing out, but since its on the bottom HDD bays its getting fresh air form the bottom fan. I originally had them as intake, but then it would heat up my GPU too much, if your drive bays are above the GPU you may not have that problem running it as in take.


well you can buy them from here it seems.
http://www.clevery.co.jp/eshop/g/g4571225042459/
but the price is kinda high. but seems like $25 is the usual price for these. i wish they had free shipping though.

i am tweaking my overclock right now (new uefi version and more information about voltages). so far managed to drop the Vcore by 0.03V at the same 4.4GHz clock (max load 1.280V) which made Prime95 blend test temps to drop to around 65C avg. i am not sure if it is stable still. didn't get a chance to stress test long enough. maybe it is reasonable. wish i could do 4.5GHz though. seems like that's where most people are stopping at. maybe i can but will have to raise the Vcore thus temps.

the other plan is to move the front 2 intakes towards the front face of the case, mount the rad with just the Kama Flow 2 1900RPM as pull (since i am getting cool air from front - no need of a push fan I guess), exhaust the hot air from top. but this method will make the VRMs hotter which might give worse overclock. probably it is better the way it is.

note: i cannot even remember why i bought the Kama Flow 2 fans. i bought the 1400RPM ones first, to run as push pull, but they gave a weird vibration when are mounted close to each other. so i bought the 1900RPM model and guess what? it performed better than both fans in push pull. Is slipstream (Scythe Kaze Jyuni) better? i don't think there would be a big difference though, since this is a thin rad.

not entirely happy with the idle temp variation. but at full the variation is less which means there isn't a seating problem. (also a lot of people seem to be getting this variation at idle)


----------



## Ecopot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> well you can buy them from here it seems.
> http://www.clevery.co.jp/eshop/g/g4571225042459/
> but the price is kinda high. but seems like $25 is the usual price for these. i wish they had free shipping though.
> i am tweaking my overclock right now (new uefi version and more information about voltages). so far managed to drop the Vcore by 0.03V at the same 4.4GHz clock (max load 1.280V) which made Prime95 blend test temps to drop to around 65C avg. i am not sure if it is stable still. didn't get a chance to stress test long enough. maybe it is reasonable. wish i could do 4.5GHz though. seems like that's where most people are stopping at. maybe i can but will have to raise the Vcore thus temps.
> the other plan is to move the front 2 intakes towards the front face of the case, mount the rad with just the Kama Flow 2 1900RPM as pull (since i am getting cool air from front - no need of a push fan I guess), exhaust the hot air from top. but this method will make the VRMs hotter which might give worse overclock. probably it is better the way it is.
> note: i cannot even remember why i bought the Kama Flow 2 fans. i bought the 1400RPM ones first, to run as push pull, but they gave a weird vibration when are mounted close to each other. so i bought the 1900RPM model and guess what? it performed better than both fans in push pull. Is slipstream (Scythe Kaze Jyuni) better? i don't think there would be a big difference though, since this is a thin rad.
> not entirely happy with the idle temp variation. but at full the variation is less which means there isn't a seating problem. (also a lot of people seem to be getting this variation at idle)


ahh you are running a i7 2600K, don't have any experiece with that cpu, but I from what I read I thought that those run kinda hot. Might have to ask around in the intel forum to see what can be done.

I have the 1200rpm Kaze Jyuni and its suppose to push like 68cfm..to push that much cfm most other fans would have to spin at about 1600rpms..not sure if thats all correct though they don't feel that strong to me. Anyways for me the stock fan works that best so far, just don't like loud it is.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Will removing the sticker on the pump void warranty? I'm trying to black out my whole build.

Edit: Thats paint for sure, will removing the logo void warranty?


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rdany*
> 
> Hi I used 8mm ID and 10mm OD tubing but could be a little smaller maybe a mm or two on the ID.
> I made a reservoir out of a snack container (1,99 for set of 3) with 2 compression fittings and used Zip ties to secure the fittings to the pump/block and radiator.
> Cut the fan grill and a bit extra from the case to be able to fit the radiator .
> The fan is inside the case pulling air from outside through radiator inside the case.


But excuse me here in this thread have confirmed that the original tubes are 3/8 ID and 1/2 OD then 13/10 mm, I'm 'to sort you need to make changes to my 920.


----------



## lightsout

I know this gets asked a million times. The fan question. I just got a 920. Can it use lower rpm fans similar to an RX version xspc rad? I don't have matching fans. What I have now is the fan from the hyper 212 evo and a nzxt fan as the pull fan. I know you shouldn't have different fans.

I also have some cooler master blade masters that have decent static pressure but they can be kind of loud at loud.

Should I bother with new fans. I am getting about 77c at 4.8ghz/1.4v on an i7 2600k. HT on. Was hoping for a little better. Not really looking to spend $15-20 a fan. Something for about $10 would be great. This is set up as intake btw.


----------



## Rdany

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> But excuse me here in this thread have confirmed that the original tubes are 3/8 ID and 1/2 OD then 13/10 mm, I'm 'to sort you need to make changes to my 920.


I'm just telling you what I use, and even with a 8mm ID I had to use 3 zip ties on radiator and CPU fittings because they are very tin and keep leaking.


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rdany*
> 
> I'm just telling you what I use, and even with a 8mm ID I had to use 3 zip ties on radiator and CPU fittings because they are very tin and keep leaking.


It is ok but you who have seen the original tubes disassembled confirm that I have a 3/8 id 1/2 or? I know only this, or say that it is better to opt for pipes more 'subtle?


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> It is ok but you who have seen the original tubes disassembled confirm that I have a 3/8 id 1/2 or? I know only this, or say that it is better to opt for pipes more 'subtle?


I haven't done it myself, but the ID appears to be 1/4" according to post 1168: http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/1160#post_15689966


----------



## jam71

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hangman*
> 
> I haven't done it myself, but the ID appears to be 1/4" according to post 1168: http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/1160#post_15689966


Um I guess you're right, he put a piece of pipe from 1/4 in the tube holder of the radiator and the waterblock and above has 3/8.Meno the evil that I have not ordered yet, but it seems to me that the tubes of 920 are more 'big for 1/4 bo'.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *hangman*
> 
> I haven't done it myself, but the ID appears to be 1/4" according to post 1168: http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/1160#post_15689966


Thank you for catching this while I've been away. Kindda getting old reposting a link to that post.


----------



## Arturo.Zise

Any ideas on how close a 920 with 2 x GT AP-15's P/P would be to a stock Silver Arrow?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arturo.Zise*
> 
> Any ideas on how close a 920 with 2 x GT AP-15's P/P would be to a stock Silver Arrow?


I just had a silver arrow sbe (a tad bit better than the regular) for a couple days last week and now I have a 920. In my experience they were pretty equal. Both keep my 2600k at 4.8 1.4v a few C under 80 at load. And both could not cool the same chip at 5ghz 1.44v. They both shot up to 85 really fast.

So for me the 920 is just so much easier to work with in my case thats what I went with.


----------



## Arturo.Zise

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I just had a silver arrow sbe (a tad bit better than the regular) for a couple days last week and now I have a 920. In my experience they were pretty equal. Both keep my 2600k at 4.8 1.4v a few C under 80 at load. And both could not cool the same chip at 5ghz 1.44v. They both shot up to 85 really fast.
> So for me the 920 is just so much easier to work with in my case thats what I went with.


Thanks.

Yeah my Silver Arrow is pushing up against the window on the side of my case, and its flexing out which i'm not happy with. And because of my ram I have to run it pull/pull and I had to give up my rear 120mm exhaust fan because of this. A 920 might just work better for me.


----------



## Anusha

one question.
how much better is the 920 than 620 when both are equipped with GT-1850's in Push-Pull??
i am thinking of buying two GT-1850's for my 620. am wondering if it is OK to upgrade to 920 at the same time. i can get the 920 for around $70.


----------



## jam71

but do you think changing the tubes and adding to my tank 920 as did many people in this thread the temperature increase? even if only slightly?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Arturo.Zise*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I just had a silver arrow sbe (a tad bit better than the regular) for a couple days last week and now I have a 920. In my experience they were pretty equal. Both keep my 2600k at 4.8 1.4v a few C under 80 at load. And both could not cool the same chip at 5ghz 1.44v. They both shot up to 85 really fast.
> So for me the 920 is just so much easier to work with in my case thats what I went with.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Yeah my Silver Arrow is pushing up against the window on the side of my case, and its flexing out which i'm not happy with. And because of my ram I have to run it pull/pull and I had to give up my rear 120mm exhaust fan because of this. A 920 might just work better for me.
Click to expand...

Ymmv of course. On paper the sa should be a little better. If your running your sig clock the 920 will handle it no problem.


----------



## Fortuneke

is the 920 or 620 noisy at high speed ?

was planning on putting a silver arrow in my pc ( haf 932)

so i would love to hear the difference


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Fortuneke*
> 
> is the 920 or 620 noisy at high speed ?
> 
> was planning on putting a silver arrow in my pc ( haf 932)
> 
> so i would love to hear the difference


Stock fans are supposed to be pretty loud. I can't say though I never used them.

What do you guys think about stacking rads? I have the 920 in push pull on my cpu. Was thinking of putting the 620 on my gtx 680. I was thinking of putting the rad at the back of my pull fan on the 920.

Asl long as this wouldn't kill my cpu temps I think the gpu temps would still be much better than on air.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Just picked up the 920 for $80 on Newegg using promo code "EMCYTZT1515"

I'm more of a fan of air cooling usually but I need a better cooler, I'm not paying for a new case right now with a cutout - and I won't be able to attach a big air cooler to my motherboard and still access all of the motherboard mounting screws in my case - I can hardly do it with my 92mm CM N-520 as it is!

Hopefully this will let me push my 960T a few MHz higher, or at least keep it a bit cooler when playing BF3 on those really hot days


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> one question.
> how much better is the 920 than 620 when both are equipped with GT-1850's in Push-Pull??
> i am thinking of buying two GT-1850's for my 620. am wondering if it is OK to upgrade to 920 at the same time. i can get the 920 for around $70.


Simple enough question. the 920 has a larger radiator (thicker), and comes with 2 fans instead of 1 (for push/pull), and also has software to control speed of the fans, without changing speed of the pump. The Pump on my 920 stays between 2520-3100RPM, where the 620 is controlled via what you tell it to run in BIOS/speedfan, ETC, usually nowhere near the water movement of the 920. Yes, at the peak of the fans, they scream very loud, but they move alot of air. There is a sacrifice for air/noise, you want one or the other, quieter fans will not move as much air through the radiator in a Push/pull config, (GT's or others exception.)


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> one question.
> how much better is the 920 than 620 when both are equipped with GT-1850's in Push-Pull??
> i am thinking of buying two GT-1850's for my 620. am wondering if it is OK to upgrade to 920 at the same time. i can get the 920 for around $70.
> 
> 
> 
> Simple enough question. the 920 has a larger radiator (thicker), and comes with 2 fans instead of 1 (for push/pull), and also has software to control speed of the fans, without changing speed of the pump. The Pump on my 920 stays between 2520-3100RPM, where the 620 is controlled via what you tell it to run in BIOS/speedfan, ETC, usually nowhere near the water movement of the 920. Yes, at the peak of the fans, they scream very loud, but they move alot of air. There is a sacrifice for air/noise, you want one or the other, quieter fans will not move as much air through the radiator in a Push/pull config, (GT's or others exception.)
Click to expand...

So you suggest keeping the 620 and getting jut the gt-1850's? I will definitely have to buy new fans for the 920 if I get one. So any other fan other than the stock fans would make it less efficient ha?


----------



## HOTDOGS

So I want to run 2 blademasters off of this in PWM. How do I go about doing this? I have several fan PWR header on my board but only one PWM. The power connector for the pump is only 3 pins and I have it plugged into my 4pin PWM header. If I try to switch it to a simple 3pin PWR header, I get an error that won't allow me to boot up. What gives?


----------



## reaver83

I imagine you need to turn off the reading of your fan speed in your BIOS HW Monitor section. Then, turn off any C&Q or Intel equivelent to run it in standard 3pin mode.

As far as the 620 vs 920, 920 all the way! Better control of the cooler is worth it! Thing is, if your thinking the 620 because the noise of the fans, the fact is the 620 and 920 have the same fans, just 1 more. What you get from the 920 is upgraded Radiator, CPU cooler, and Software control which allows you to fine tune to your system, as opposed to the 620's non-software control setup.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Fixed, I just turned off all fan monitoring for now.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Fixed, I just turned off all fan monitoring for now.


HEY! People actually listen! the reason I said turn off C&Q or Intel equivalent is because it will throttle down the power to the CPU plug (or which ever you have it plugged into), slowing down the Pump, not the fans.


----------



## xGTx

guys, can you suggest me how, for how long, and what sand paper to use if I want to lap my cooler's base?. It's just that I used coolaboratory liquid ultra and it was a pain to remove.. left a lot of scratches on the surface of my 920's base...


----------



## FromUndaChz

Just installed my 920, dropped max temps from 56C to 30C - WOW!


----------



## HOTDOGS

I'm going to have a push pull PWM config on my 620. Should I have the push syncing the pull or vice versa?


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Just installed my 920, dropped max temps from 56C to 30C - WOW!


What cooler did you use before the 920?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Cooler Master Hyper N-520, which was a great little $30 cooler that did well for 92mm fans - but I had to up the voltage on my CPU to make it stable when I added another 8GB of RAM, so I needed some better cooling for the upcoming summer after I did that.


----------



## K62-RIG

I have 2 xigmatec 120mm white LED fans on mine and it is seriously quiet. My pump and both fans are running off 12v (molex) also.









Don't try running the supplied fans off 12v, you'll need ear muffs.


----------



## passey

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K62-RIG*
> 
> I have 2 xigmatec 120mm white LED fans on mine and it is seriously quiet. My pump and both fans are running off 12v (molex) also.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't try running the supplied fans off 12v, you'll need ear muffs.


Yeh the first thing i did on mine was scrap the fan that came with my 620 its bloody noisey.

Im using a coolermaster 120mm fan on 1 side and the 120mm NZXT fan that came with the case on the other.

Temps stay around 30C


----------



## leelin

Anyone try the CM Blademaster fans in Push/Pull yet? My 920 has arrived (to replace my 620) & I will run it with the stock fans for now. Will the Chill Control software ramp the PWM Blademasters properly?


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leelin*
> 
> Anyone try the CM Blademaster fans in Push/Pull yet? My 920 has arrived (to replace my 620) & I will run it with the stock fans for now. Will the Chill Control software ramp the PWM Blademasters properly?


I just ordered 2 of them actually for a push pull setup on the 620. Also someone please answer my question below:

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> I'm going to have a push pull PWM config on my 620. Should I have the push syncing the pull or vice versa?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leelin*
> 
> Anyone try the CM Blademaster fans in Push/Pull yet? My 920 has arrived (to replace my 620) & I will run it with the stock fans for now. Will the Chill Control software ramp the PWM Blademasters properly?


I use them they work good. But I don't use the antec software. I just plugged them into the cpu headers on my board and they ramp up and the temp goes up.


----------



## Robilar

I just picked up an Antec 920 for my media pc. I had moved over my motherboard and cpu from another system (where it had an H80 on it).

Frankly, the H80 is far superior to the Antec 920. I reseated, redid TIM, reorganized internal airflow in the case, and the H80 still outperforms the 920 on the exact same setup.

With that in mind, I don't heavily overclock the system so it's not a big deal but I'm not sure how these two cooling setups could ever directly compete...

Also the mounting system!!! Grrr similar to the Corsair H70 and prior. Drives me nuts. Also the way you connect the fans leaves a bunch of loose wires around the cpu area. Hard to make it clear from a wiring perspective.

Things I do like:

The price; it's about $10 cheaper than the H80

Changing the LED on the pump to match the system fans

The software. Neat and functional

The tubing; much better than the H80 and longer


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I just picked up an Antec 920 for my media pc. I had moved over my motherboard and cpu from another system (where it had an H80 on it).
> 
> Frankly, the H80 is far superior to the Antec 920. I reseated, redid TIM, reorganized internal airflow in the case, and the H80 still outperforms the 920 on the exact same setup.
> 
> With that in mind, I don't heavily overclock the system so it's not a big deal but I'm not sure how these two cooling setups could ever directly compete...
> 
> Also the mounting system!!! Grrr similar to the Corsair H70 and prior. Drives me nuts. Also the way you connect the fans leaves a bunch of loose wires around the cpu area. Hard to make it clear from a wiring perspective.
> 
> Things I do like:
> 
> The price; it's about $10 cheaper than the H80
> 
> Changing the LED on the pump to match the system fans
> 
> The software. Neat and functional
> 
> The tubing; much better than the H80 and longer


Hmmm I've heard the opposite about the performance between the two. I will say the crappy tubes on the corsair units are enough to make me never buy one again.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I just picked up an Antec 920 for my media pc. I had moved over my motherboard and cpu from another system (where it had an H80 on it).
> Frankly, the H80 is far superior to the Antec 920. I reseated, redid TIM, reorganized internal airflow in the case, and the H80 still outperforms the 920 on the exact same setup.
> With that in mind, I don't heavily overclock the system so it's not a big deal but I'm not sure how these two cooling setups could ever directly compete...
> Also the mounting system!!! Grrr similar to the Corsair H70 and prior. Drives me nuts. Also the way you connect the fans leaves a bunch of loose wires around the cpu area. Hard to make it clear from a wiring perspective.
> Things I do like:
> The price; it's about $10 cheaper than the H80
> Changing the LED on the pump to match the system fans
> The software. Neat and functional
> The tubing; much better than the H80 and longer


I can find numerous reviews showing that the 920 and H80 are within 1C of each other on every major review I could find comparing the two. The 920 also has an extra year warranty and the tubing is a nice improvement over my Corsair unit. I can say that both units cool just as well for me on the exact same CPU so yours seems to be a dud or something if it's being noticeably beaten by the Corsair H80. I agree that the mounting system on the Corsair is much better, but the one on the Antec is certainly sufficient and not bad at all if you follow the directions carefully and are at all good at working with your hands. I did have to plan out wire management a bit with my setup, but you can't hardly find my cords if you looked for them - it's a matter of wire management more so than bad design - the thing needs wires to work so we have to deal with hiding them sometimes, lol..

I got mine for $35 less than I paid for my H80, I prefer almost everything about my 920 over me H80, aside from the mounting system. Opinions aside though, both units cool the same amount, period. I'm not calling you out, just saying there's definitely a problem if you can tell the difference in cooling between the two units.


----------



## lightsout

I do dislike all the wires on the 920. I prefer to use my mobo for the fans so its just more mess to hide.


----------



## Robilar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> I can find numerous reviews showing that the 920 and H80 are within 1C of each other on every major review I could find comparing the two. The 920 also has an extra year warranty and the tubing is a nice improvement over my Corsair unit. I can say that both units cool just as well for me on the exact same CPU so yours seems to be a dud or something if it's being noticeably beaten by the Corsair H80. I agree that the mounting system on the Corsair is much better, but the one on the Antec is certainly sufficient and not bad at all if you follow the directions carefully and are at all good at working with your hands. I did have to plan out wire management a bit with my setup, but you can't hardly find my cords if you looked for them - it's a matter of wire management more so than bad design - the thing needs wires to work so we have to deal with hiding them sometimes, lol..
> I got mine for $35 less than I paid for my H80, I prefer almost everything about my 920 over me H80, aside from the mounting system. Opinions aside though, both units cool the same amount, period. I'm not calling you out, just saying there's definitely a problem if you can tell the difference in cooling between the two units.


I agree. I expected there to be virtually no difference between the two given that the cpu and motherboard are identical. I expect it's temps to improve as the TIM cures and the case does have slightly less airflow than the system it came out of and as such a higher ambient temp internally.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I do dislike all the wires on the 920. I prefer to use my mobo for the fans so its just more mess to hide.


You can use your mobo for the fans, just remove the wire coming from the pump for the fans and problem solved.. But yeah it's all about preference man, do what works for you. I had no problem hiding mine and prefer to use them since I like the software to control the fans. My BIOS is set up to take over when I'm in Linux and can't run the included software.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Robilar*
> 
> I agree. I expected there to be virtually no difference between the two given that the cpu and motherboard are identical. I expect it's temps to improve as the TIM cures and the case does have slightly less airflow than the system it came out of and as such a higher ambient temp internally.


I'm going to probably blame the air flow - I hear the double thick radiator on the 920 makes it very hard to push air through - if the air flow in the case isn't fairly excessive, it's likely that the radiator will just heat up in the small case and run hot until you can get more airflow in there. I'm pretty sure the Shin Etsu TIM that come pre applied has no break in time, but I could be wrong.

Either way, good luck!


----------



## leelin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I use them they work good. But I don't use the antec software. I just plugged them into the cpu headers on my board and they ramp up and the temp goes up.


That's cool but my mobo only has 3pin headers, so no PWM, only PWM header is CPU header. How are you finding the Blademasters noise/performance ratio over the stock fans? Is there a difference in running PWM fans on a non-pwm mobo 3pin header or shouldn't one just go with sickleflows or something in this instance?


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *passey*
> 
> Yeh the first thing i did on mine was scrap the fan that came with my 620 its bloody noisey.
> Im using a coolermaster 120mm fan on 1 side and the 120mm NZXT fan that came with the case on the other.
> Temps stay around 30C


Where do i buy these in europe? Or import them to norway, its bloody hard whit the taxes

Over 200,- nok means taxes, and taxes on the taxes actually, qute impressive realy......tax on the tax. And Norway has in the bank and firms equel to 700 000 nok at eatch norwegian whit cityenchip(Wrong written,but you understand i believe) yet we do not have decent roads, schools etc... BUT WE HAVE TAXES! And monitoring of our people.... LOL

We have luxury tax on everything, even food!! Please explain how food is luxus, anyone??


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leelin*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I use them they work good. But I don't use the antec software. I just plugged them into the cpu headers on my board and they ramp up and the temp goes up.
> 
> 
> 
> That's cool but my mobo only has 3pin headers, so no PWM, only PWM header is CPU header. How are you finding the Blademasters noise/performance ratio over the stock fans? Is there a difference in running PWM fans on a non-pwm mobo 3pin header or shouldn't one just go with sickleflows or something in this instance?
Click to expand...

I never messed with the stock fan. But the blademasters do get fairly loud when loaded but they are pretty quiet imo when running slow.

You can normally still control some of the 3 pin headers on your board. On asus boards normally the chasis fans can be controlled but the power fan can not.


----------



## HOTDOGS

I'm going to have a push pull PWM config on my 620. Should I have the push syncing the pull or vice versa?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> I'm going to have a push pull PWM config on my 620. Should I have the push syncing the pull or vice versa?


How many times are you going to ask the same question?


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> How many times are you going to ask the same question?


As many times as I need too before it get's answered.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> As many times as I need too before it get's answered.


I think somebody may have answered you if they understood what exactly it is you're asking... if you're running a push pull just plug the fans in and they will spin at the same rate assuming your motherboard is set up right (if you plugged them into the mobo headers) and if they're plugged into the pump you can use either the BIOS (with fan settings adjusted properly) or the included software with the 920 (which you don't have so disregard) to control the fans. You could also use the ASUS Fan Xpert software with most Asus boards.

I don't think anybody understands the question, at least nobody that has seen your question. I've never heard of syncing fans with one another.


----------



## GanjaSMK

I just picked up a 920, excited to see it perform. However I have some questions if you all wouldn't mind.

1) I didn't install the software first. Is that going to screw things up? Do I even need the software?

2) Mounting is weird and from reading the tips on the first page I see that intake/exhaust and position of tubing doesn't matter, but there is a 'ring' besides the mount and I'm not sure where it goes? The instructions don't mention or show anything about it. Is it for Intel only?

Thanks (Installing this on AM3) -


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> As many times as I need too before it get's answered.
> 
> 
> 
> I think somebody may have answered you if they understood what exactly it is you're asking... if you're running a push pull just plug the fans in and they will spin at the same rate assuming your motherboard is set up right (if you plugged them into the mobo headers) and if they're plugged into the pump you can use either the BIOS (with fan settings adjusted properly) or the included software with the 920 (which you don't have so disregard) to control the fans. You could also use the ASUS Fan Xpert software with most Asus boards.
> 
> I don't think anybody understands the question, at least nobody that has seen your question. I've never heard of syncing fans with one another.
Click to expand...

Thats exactly why I stayed away from it.


----------



## HOTDOGS

I'm just asking what is the config I should have set up for my fans, If I want to use PWM should they be plugged into the pump or 4pin mobo header? Then since I'm using a splitter, one fan will sync the other, so should my pull fan sync my push fan or should my push fan sync my pull fan?


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> I'm just asking what is the config I should have set up for my fans, If I want to use PWM should they be plugged into the pump or 4pin mobo header? Then since I'm using a splitter, one fan will sync the other, so should my pull fan sync my push fan or should my push fan sync my pull fan?


i don't think you have to sync them at all - as long as it is not introducing any vibration or hum. i had my 620 run with a 1000RPM fan as intake and 1900RPM fan exhaust. didn't have any adverse effects and i'M sure the cooling performance is right in the middle of using two 1000RPM fans and two 1900RPM fans.

besides, what do you mean by "syncing" anyways? sync = spinning them at the same speed? wouldn't it be done automatically when you are using a splitter cable and using only PWM header?


----------



## GanjaSMK

Can anyone shed light on the software installation for me please?


----------



## K62-RIG

What do you need to know mate. Once its connected you install the drivers on the CD. This is so you can run the Antec software to monitor your liquid temps, Fan speed etc. Pretty simple to get done.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> i don't think you have to sync them at all - as long as it is not introducing any vibration or hum. i had my 620 run with a 1000RPM fan as intake and 1900RPM fan exhaust. didn't have any adverse effects and i'M sure the cooling performance is right in the middle of using two 1000RPM fans and two 1900RPM fans.
> besides, what do you mean by "syncing" anyways? sync = spinning them at the same speed? wouldn't it be done automatically when you are using a splitter cable and using only PWM header?


They're 4 pin fans and the connector splits so one runs off 4 pins and the other off 3 pins, so it matches the other fan's PWM reading. I think the intake should be the one using the PWM reading. I can't connect the PWM fans to the pump anyways because they're 4 pins and the connector is 3 pins, so they would have to be connected to my PWM header on my mobo right?


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> i don't think you have to sync them at all - as long as it is not introducing any vibration or hum. i had my 620 run with a 1000RPM fan as intake and 1900RPM fan exhaust. didn't have any adverse effects and i'M sure the cooling performance is right in the middle of using two 1000RPM fans and two 1900RPM fans.
> besides, what do you mean by "syncing" anyways? sync = spinning them at the same speed? wouldn't it be done automatically when you are using a splitter cable and using only PWM header?
> 
> 
> 
> They're 4 pin fans and the connector splits so one runs off 4 pins and the other off 3 pins, so it matches the other fan's PWM reading. I think the intake should be the one using the PWM reading. I can't connect the PWM fans to the pump anyways because they're 4 pins and the connector is 3 pins, so they would have to be connected to my PWM header on my mobo right?
Click to expand...

There is no syncing. Just plug them in. I use the spot on my mobo.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K62-RIG*
> 
> What do you need to know mate. Once its connected you install the drivers on the CD. This is so you can run the Antec software to monitor your liquid temps, Fan speed etc. Pretty simple to get done.


My question is, the instructions suggest to install the software first, then install the cooler. I have done the reverse, installed the hardware (almost ready to turn back on) first.

So - is that OK, or will the software not function properly unless it is installed first? That's two questions, but you get the idea.


----------



## K62-RIG

perfectly fine mate. I did the same thing. Software will detect the cooler and install np.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K62-RIG*
> 
> perfectly fine mate. I did the same thing. Software will detect the cooler and install np.


Thanks for reassurance.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> They're 4 pin fans and the connector splits so one runs off 4 pins and the other off 3 pins, so it matches the other fan's PWM reading. I think the intake should be the one using the PWM reading. I can't connect the PWM fans to the pump anyways because they're 4 pins and the connector is 3 pins, so they would have to be connected to my PWM header on my mobo right?


why do you think the intake should be the one connected to the 4-pin? why should there be a differentiation?


----------



## K62-RIG

post some pics when it's setup. We all love pics.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K62-RIG*
> 
> post some pics when it's setup. We all love pics.


I could but I don't have things laid out in the best way for that.









Plus I need to get it going and working and such and by that it'll take more time than I'm putting towards any pictures. But if I really MUST...







I can/will.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> There is no syncing. Just plug them in. I use the spot on my mobo.


The 4pin on the mobo? What sort of fan speed do you get? I haven't got my fans yet to try this but I'm freaking out thinking the RPM is going to be sooo slow because it's hooked up to a rad so it won't sense the temps on the PWM thing on my mobo.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> why do you think the intake should be the one connected to the 4-pin? why should there be a differentiation?


Ugghh I don't know, they're split to they'll sink the same speed. I guess it doesn't matter. I'm sooo dumb.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> There is no syncing. Just plug them in. I use the spot on my mobo.
> 
> 
> 
> The 4pin on the mobo? What sort of fan speed do you get? I haven't got my fans yet to try this but I'm freaking out thinking the RPM is going to be sooo slow because it's hooked up to a rad so it won't sense the temps on the PWM thing on my mobo.
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> why do you think the intake should be the one connected to the 4-pin? why should there be a differentiation?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Ugghh I don't know, they're split to they'll sink the same speed. I guess it doesn't matter. I'm sooo dumb.
Click to expand...

Your over thinking it man. I plug them into my mobo. And I set the fan profile. It raises by the cpu temp. It doesn't sense the temp of the rad.

I use asus fanxpert which is great. When the cpu heats up the fan ramps up with it.


----------



## HOTDOGS

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I use asus fanxpert which is great. When the cpu heats up the fan ramps up with it.


Perfect, and I can set the rest in the BIOS. I've just bought a lot of stuff for my revamp and keep reading up on it and doubting myself about if it will do what I want. Thanks for putting up with my blatant idiocy.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Hrm.. Doesn't seem right. My temps idling are 42c. What happened?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *HOTDOGS*
> 
> The 4pin on the mobo? What sort of fan speed do you get? I haven't got my fans yet to try this but I'm freaking out thinking the RPM is going to be sooo slow because it's hooked up to a rad so it won't sense the temps on the PWM thing on my mobo.
> Ugghh I don't know, they're split to they'll sink the same speed. I guess it doesn't matter. I'm sooo dumb.


You can plug them into the pump and control them with the mobo, or the software... OR you can just plug them into the mobo and control it just from the BIOS or your MOBO software. Either way is fine if you configure it correctly in the BIOS. Don't worry about any "syncing" of fans just plug em in and let them go. I prefer to plug the fans into the pump on the 920 so I can have the option to ramp the fans with either the MOBO or the included Antec software.

@Ganja - You smoked too much ganja before installing mon!! Check and make sure you mounted the pump correctly.. check your fan RPMs in the included software or any software that reads CPU FAN speeds. The fans should operate between about 700 and 2500 RPM or so depending on CPU temps. If the fans are connected to your pump, make sure you go into the BIOS and diable any Q Fan Control or Smart CPU Fan or anything of that nature so that the Antec software can do its thing.

If you want to use the motherboard to control the fans, plug them into the mobo headers or the pump and enable Q Fan and then configure it in the BIOS to your needs.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> @Ganja - You smoked too much ganja before installing mon!! Check and make sure you mounted the pump correctly.. check your fan RPMs in the included software or any software that reads CPU FAN speeds. The fans should operate between about 700 and 2500 RPM or so depending on CPU temps. If the fans are connected to your pump, make sure you go into the BIOS and diable any Q Fan Control or Smart CPU Fan or anything of that nature so that the Antec software can do its thing.
> 
> If you want to use the motherboard to control the fans, plug them into the mobo headers or the pump and enable Q Fan and then configure it in the BIOS to your needs.


The fans do operate at low speed, but still the temps are terrible at stock or overclocked. Even something as minor as 1.375v for a 1055T @ 3.9~ with fan speeds running roughly 1200 it idles at - 38c. All I'm using at the moment are the stock fans that came with the package.

As far as I can tell, everything is mounted right? On the first page of this club it mentions that the direction of the hoses don't matter - or do they? Mine CPU hoses are pointing toward the front of my case and the hoses on the rad are pointing to the bottom of my case. Screws are tight but not overly tightened, seems to me like there is excellent contact?

What's the deal?









I would plug the fans into the motherboard but the length of the cords is like 4"... they don't reach and I don't have extensions.









So I made a thread asking what the best fans are.... for this.

I should note - I changed the fan control in the software to 25c and 45c to ramp the fans up so it doesn't sit hot on idle.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> The fans do operate at low speed, but still the temps are terrible at stock or overclocked. Even something as minor as 1.375v for a 1055T @ 3.9~ with fan speeds running roughly 1200 it idles at - 38c. All I'm using at the moment are the stock fans that came with the package.
> As far as I can tell, everything is mounted right? On the first page of this club it mentions that the direction of the hoses don't matter - or do they? Mine CPU hoses are pointing toward the front of my case and the hoses on the rad are pointing to the bottom of my case. Screws are tight but not overly tightened, seems to me like there is excellent contact?
> What's the deal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would plug the fans into the motherboard but the length of the cords is like 4"... they don't reach and I don't have extensions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a thread asking what the best fans are.... for this.
> I should note - I changed the fan control in the software to 25c and 45c to ramp the fans up so it doesn't sit hot on idle.


Are you mistaking the coolant temp shown by the Antec software for the CPU temp?

If not, what is the coolant temp, and at what CPU temp?

Upload a screenshot running CPUID's HW Monitor and the Antec "Dashboard" tab at the same time on idle..

My settings are Ramp at 30 Full at 40 and my coolant sits around 34c on idle with ambient room temps about 72F.

You can mount the pump any way you want, I think the radiator can be as well but I mounted mine as shown in my album/avatar to the left here.. I prefer the hoses at the bottom, it ensures there is liquid always ready at the inlet. The pump doesn't matter what orientation, the radiator I would suggest tubes on the bottom.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> The fans do operate at low speed, but still the temps are terrible at stock or overclocked. Even something as minor as 1.375v for a 1055T @ 3.9~ with fan speeds running roughly 1200 it idles at - 38c. All I'm using at the moment are the stock fans that came with the package.
> As far as I can tell, everything is mounted right? On the first page of this club it mentions that the direction of the hoses don't matter - or do they? Mine CPU hoses are pointing toward the front of my case and the hoses on the rad are pointing to the bottom of my case. Screws are tight but not overly tightened, seems to me like there is excellent contact?
> What's the deal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would plug the fans into the motherboard but the length of the cords is like 4"... they don't reach and I don't have extensions.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I made a thread asking what the best fans are.... for this.
> I should note - I changed the fan control in the software to 25c and 45c to ramp the fans up so it doesn't sit hot on idle.
> 
> 
> 
> Are you mistaking the coolant temp shown by the Antec software for the CPU temp?
> 
> If not, what is the coolant temp, and at what CPU temp?
> 
> Upload a screenshot running CPUID's HW Monitor and the Antec "Dashboard" tab at the same time on idle..
Click to expand...

Nope, sadly.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Your temps are fine.. at 34C coolant my fans are 1200 RPMish. You're at 35C in the screenshot, and 1600RPM so you're on track there..

Your core temps are idling 23C, that's nice and low and the same idle as I have.

What's the matter?

Ignore the TMPIN0 and 1 those are the temps on the back side of the CPU.. on the socket. The cores are what needs to be kept below 60C, and run lower because they're in direct contact (almost) with the cooler.

As you can see in HW monitor, all of your cores are idling just as I'd expect.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Your temps are fine.. at 34C coolant my fans are 1200 RPMish. You're at 35C in the screenshot, and 1600RPM so you're on track there..
> 
> Your core temps are idling 23C, that's nice and low and the same idle as I have.
> 
> What's the matter?


First off, 23c is unlikely to be a true reading. Add 15c to that and you get near socket temps. Socket is idling 38c, more representative of what it should be. Core temps on Phenom II supposedly don't even read accurately until the temps reach 45c... that's according to AMD.

So you're saying that idle temps at 38c on the socket are... normal?









With my S1284 (Xiggy) in push/pull I was idling 32c at the same voltage and clocks. I just - I don't get it I guess. I'm guessing new fans, hooked up to the the motherboard (hopefully nice quiet fans that run quiet between 1500~2000RPM), will fix the issue.

I don't know... maybe I expected more?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> First off, 23c is unlikely to be a true reading. Add 15c to that and you get near socket temps. Socket is idling 38c, more representative of what it should be. Core temps on Phenom II supposedly don't even read accurately until the temps reach 45c... that's according to AMD.
> So you're saying that idle temps at 38c on the socket are... normal?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my S1284 (Xiggy) in push/pull I was idling 32c at the same voltage and clocks. I just - I don't get it I guess. I'm guessing new fans, hooked up to the the motherboard (hopefully nice quiet fans that run quiet between 1500~2000RPM), will fix the issue.
> I don't know... maybe I expected more?


I'd like to know where you're getting your information from that the temps don't read correctly until 45C

Also your idle temps match mine, so correct or not, they're within range - I don't know if you're overclocked but I am, heavily.. Whether you are or not, you have two extra cores so even stock you should be running warmer than me. Also, depending on your room temperatures and case temps, your temps will vary.

The temps on the socket are not something to worry about, I've had mine at 67C (according to socket readings) for 12+ hours and both chips are still cooking and performing admirably in BM's.

Just watch CPU temps and you're fine. Your socket temps and your core temps nearly match mine on idle so relax. I've had my chip running far hotter than it is with this water loop on it and it's FINE.

If you doubt me, wait for somebody else to answer you.

You're paranoid about the core temps being so far off.


----------



## FromUndaChz

I forgot to add that my CPU idled cooler on air also.. it's because the air coming in was fresh and cool, it wasn't warm and sitting inside my hot case like the radiator is.

What were your MAX temps with the Xiggy in Prime 95?

What are they now with the water loop? Set the custom settings to 30/40 or 30/42 in the software and let her rip with prime on. I promise your max temps will be WAY lower, unless you did something wrong or had a Noctua dh 14 in your system prior.

My max temps dropped from 60C on the cores to 36C on the cores from a cooler master hyper n520 to my new antec kuhler 920.

Your 1090T and my 960T are basically the same processor, running at the same temps. You're good dude.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> I forgot to add that my CPU idled cooler on air also.. it's because the air coming in was fresh and cool, it wasn't warm and sitting inside my hot case like the radiator is.
> 
> What were your MAX temps with the Xiggy in Prime 95?
> 
> What are they now with the water loop? Set the custom settings to 30/40 or 30/42 in the software and let her rip with prime on. I promise your max temps will be WAY lower, unless you did something wrong or had a Noctua dh 14 in your system prior.
> 
> My max temps dropped from 60C on the cores to 36C on the cores from a cooler master hyper n520 to my new antec kuhler 920.


I can't find the thread where someone here asked an AMD engineer whether socket temps or CPU temps were more important and it was him/that thread which noted that the core temps are more important, but that they don't (at least on Thuban based chips anyways) accurately report correct temperatures until they hit 45c.

The core temps have no internal sensor. They are calculated by an algorithm. So - it was suggested to maintain socket temps on Thubans because they were generally 10-15c higher than the core temps, thus proving more accurately reported. So...

I guess it just is what it is. Seems to me like it should idle a lot lower but I guess not. What surprised me most was how loud it is, even at 1500 RPM. I have 2x6850 in CF and I can't hear them over the 2x120's on the radiator. That's pretty damn loud.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> I can't find the thread where someone here asked an AMD engineer whether socket temps or CPU temps were more important and it was him/that thread which noted that the core temps are more important, but that they don't (at least on Thuban based chips anyways) accurately report correct temperatures until they hit 45c.
> The core temps have no internal sensor. They are calculated by an algorithm. So - it was suggested to maintain socket temps on Thubans because they were generally 10-15c higher than the core temps, thus proving more accurately reported. So...
> I guess it just is what it is. Seems to me like it should idle a lot lower but I guess not. What surprised me most was how loud it is, even at 1500 RPM. I have 2x6850 in CF and I can't hear them over the 2x120's on the radiator. That's pretty damn loud.


They shouldn't be very loud when the chip is idling if you adjust the custom settings properly man.. no matter what it's going to idle higher than it did on a decent air cooler, it's a fact of life with a small closed loop system. Your max temps are what matter and they will be lower.

Don't stress too much about the socket temps, mine won't go over 52C on the socket at 42 on the cores even on SILENT setting.

If it's loud on idle, play with the fan settings. I made mine silent on idle, and they ramp up slowly when gaming - I can barely hear them unless it's quiet in the game. There's no reason to have them blasting, if the cpu is under max temps then it's just fine, no need to be much cooler than that.

Test prime on SILENT and you'll see that you still won't even be in the danger zone.

Stop stressing about idle temps and let it idle hotter if it's too loud when browsing or whatever.

It might be true that core temps aren't quite accurate until 45C - but my processor isn't even reaching those core temps on this cooler so I'm not sure what you have going on.


----------



## reaver83

I'll be honest with ya, My temps get up to 40C on the Antec Software, but that is because my room gets up to 95*F during the day. I also keep my [email protected], so it does produce a little more heat.

Here is the best way to explain this:

Just as a heatsink and fan are made to take the heat of what it contacts and disipate the heat away, the heatsink inside the pump/cooler (coldplate inside), has water pass over it, get heated by this heatsink which transfers it to the radiator, where the heat is stored until the fans blow through it to remove the heat from the radiator. The cooled liquid from the radiator is then passed back to the pump, where it can gather more heat to be sent to the radiator, in a loop. The Warmer the air the fans push through the radiator, the less heat it can disipate. However, if you reverse it and draw air from outside, in most cases you are blowing warm air disipated from the radiator directly over the processor, adding more heat to the mix. The best solution is to make sure nice cool air enters the case, so that the radiator can cool better.

Long story short is this, both air cooled applications and liquid cooled applications have 1 thing in common, they dissipate heat. The difference is, most air cooled solutions have NO control of where it dissipates to, unlike water cooled applications, which can be put ANYWHERE you want. If you wanna get "jiggy with it" (and void your warranty), then you could disconnect the lines on the radiator, run the hoses outside the case, mount the radiator outside the case, and therefore ZERO radiated heat inside your case.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> *snip*


It wasn't just idle, it was load temps too. I've reconfigured, started over, tightened the screws on the base completely (all the way!), applied MX-2 because I didn't want to reuse the messed up Shin-Etsu, managed to setup fans to plug each one into CPU/fan header, pump on header on mobo too and now everything is super peachy.

Still the fans are too loud so I'll be looking at some Scythe and Gelid fans, but for now I'm much happier with the setup. Much better.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> *snip*


Thanks for your input, but I think I'm all setup now.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> It wasn't just idle, it was load temps too. I've reconfigured, started over, tightened the screws on the base completely (all the way!), applied MX-2 because I didn't want to reuse the messed up Shin-Etsu, managed to setup fans to plug each one into CPU/fan header, pump on header on mobo too and now everything is super peachy.
> Still the fans are too loud so I'll be looking at some Scythe and Gelid fans, but for now I'm much happier with the setup. Much better.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks for your input, but I think I'm all setup now.


The fans are super loud under load - that's why I plugged the fans into my pump so I could use both the BIOS or the Antec software to control the fan speeds. I use the software but I tried with the BIOS and it works well also. My mobo's Asus software allows me to control the fans as well.

Whatever works for you, go for it.. I find the fans to be quite quiet when properly configured to ramp up according to needs - only loud when running Prime95 but that's to be expected.

You did well to tighten the screws all the way, that's what it takes - you won't hurt anything, you need good pressure to have proper contact and it didn't take much torque at all to tighten them down all the way on my board.

Glad you got it figured out.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> The fans are super loud under load - that's why I plugged the fans into my pump so I could use both the BIOS or the Antec software to control the fan speeds. I use the software but I tried with the BIOS and it works well also. My mobo's Asus software allows me to control the fans as well.
> 
> Whatever works for you, go for it.. I find the fans to be quite quiet when properly configured to ramp up according to needs - only loud when running Prime95 but that's to be expected.
> 
> You did well to tighten the screws all the way, that's what it takes - you won't hurt anything, you need good pressure to have proper contact and it didn't take much torque at all to tighten them down all the way on my board.
> 
> Glad you got it figured out.


I've bypassed the pump jig and just went for mobo control via BIOS. On silent I think I'm topping out at 45c. They're still too loud at 1500RPM though. I can deal with it for now. Will probably get some GT's one day or another.


----------



## cipsaz

Hey guys.

I just bought the AP-15 fans to replace the stock ones. Where do I plug them since the MB has only one power fan connector?


----------



## superericla

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cipsaz*
> 
> Hey guys.
> I just bought the AP-15 fans to replace the stock ones. Where do I plug them since the MB has only one power fan connector?


You can still plug them into the 4-pin connector the old fans were plugged into, they'll just run at full speed. Honestly, I find AP-15 fans to be quiet.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Pretty sure I thought I'd ask, pump is supposed to be full-throttle all the time, right? Mine (920) is running ~3000. I read a bunch of pages (30 posts/pp for me) in this thread and I'm just asking once again for reassurance.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Pretty sure I thought I'd ask, pump is supposed to be full-throttle all the time, right? Mine (920) is running ~3000. I read a bunch of pages (30 posts/pp for me) in this thread and I'm just asking once again for reassurance.


There is no point in running your pump at lower speed. It dont make mutch noise anyway, right? If you let if go to low, you get a klicking sound as well, so I think it is supposed to stay at full throttle as you call it all the time


----------



## dislikeyou

Hello, i am new on this forum. Several days ago i built my new Ivy Bridge pc and i have a Antec 920 cooler. I have the clicking sound problem.
I tried the manget fix but it only solved the problem for 30-40 min and then the noise was back. I also tried to shake the radiator, turn the radiator upside down and turn the pump 180* degrees, but then it made a even louder noise so i switched back. The thing is, when i lay the case down on the floor the noise is gone, as soon as i lift it up again the noise is back.

I don't know what else i could try. Maybe its air bubbles that is trapped in the pump or it is a factory fault. Should i go to the store and exchange it? I threw away the package the cooler came in so i'm not sure they will exchange but i will call on Monday and ask.

It is connected to CPU_FAN on ASUS Z77 V-PRO, the fans are running at 600-670 RPM and the pump speed is 2800 according to antec software.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Pretty sure I thought I'd ask, pump is supposed to be full-throttle all the time, right? Mine (920) is running ~3000. I read a bunch of pages (30 posts/pp for me) in this thread and I'm just asking once again for reassurance.


I posted on Tom's Hrdware Forum about this, and yes, full throttle all the time according to the Antec rep that contacted me.

Also, dislikeyou, if you have any C&Q or Intel Equivalent running on the header the 920 is connected to, turn it off. Personally, I connected mine to a 3-pin motherboard header to Molex adapter. it should get full power ALL the time to work properly. Do not set fan speed for the header it is on, unless you are manually telling it to run 100% all the time.


----------



## dislikeyou

I layed my chassis on the floor for 8 hours and now the clicking sound is almost gone, i can hear it a bit, but maybe its the fan and not the pump.

I found this fix on corsair website, they recommend to do this for their coolers. Lets hope it does not come back.

Edit: The clicking sound came back and it was loud, but after 30 min it became quiet again.

I made a video about it:


----------



## drBlahMan

Just got back from MicroCenter with the Khuler 620 for my new mATX rig







It was on sale for *$50*...Is this a good deal*?*


----------



## lightsout

Not bad I paid $60 on amazon.


----------



## Rage19420

Yes it's a good deal! That's what I got for both of mine when doing the GPU mod.


----------



## dislikeyou

Is it bad idea to connect the cooler to CPU_FAN header together with the 2 fans. My CPU_FAN header died, i was thinking that maybe it was too much for it to handle.

http://i.minus.com/i4I3lch37rwpl.PNG here it was it looks like now, Both CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT is dead, and CPU_FAN2 cant be controlled, it runs at 100% :/


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> I posted on Tom's Hrdware Forum about this, and yes, full throttle all the time according to the Antec rep that contacted me.
> 
> Also, dislikeyou, if you have any C&Q or Intel Equivalent running on the header the 920 is connected to, turn it off. Personally, I connected mine to a 3-pin motherboard header to Molex adapter. it should get full power ALL the time to work properly. Do not set fan speed for the header it is on, unless you are manually telling it to run 100% all the time.


Think about it, whats the point in undervolting the pump, thus make it runs slower, when it hardly makes any sound at all? you can actually undervoltage it alittle and still manage to get it to be silent, but that is only a point if you are trying to get your rig under 10db or something,hehe. So full throttle it is. The better waterpump, sligthly lesser need of fans blowing. And the fan makes most noice, so up whit the pump and down whit the fan. Im on a 620 and use amd c1e support and that other thing, at it works great  Full throttle,and my cpu never gets so hot that the fans start spinning up, so i have never heard the awfull sound level of the 620. Im just pleased









Off to bed. Sorry if the english was bad, i might have thought on norwegian and translated it, but who cares


----------



## reaver83

^that is the whole thought, if you have C&Q on, (or intel equivelent,) then you are most likely hearing the pump running too slow! Therefore, you should speed it up to 100% in BIOS to make sure it is getting proper voltage.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> ^that is the whole thought, if you have C&Q on, (or intel equivelent,) then you are most likely hearing the pump running too slow! Therefore, you should speed it up to 100% in BIOS to make sure it is getting proper voltage.


I have C&Q and C1E enabled on my 1055T and overclocked. I have the 3-pin connector plugged in from the base to my CPU header, and both fans to the y-cable off the base.

Are you saying I should switch this to a different header?

Makes no sense to me because the chiller software reports 3000~RPM on the pump?

The CPU Q-Fan function (ASUS board) is disabled on it. So... am I good or what?


----------



## reaver83

In some instances, the computer cust power to the fans for energy saving. This is why you should manually tell it "NO!" Just saying these people hearing the clicking noise should try this before sending it back to Antec.


----------



## cipsaz

The pump "click" noise is sort of a defective and the customer should always return the product. It's not even written in the manual for shaking, etc.. My brand new pump was clicking like crazy out of the box. Thought would settle overnight, but didn't so I RMA'd it. Always try to replace while you can.


----------



## dislikeyou

I have now turned the pump upside down / 180* degrees. Seems the fish tank noise is gone but i'm not sure yet. And i'm thinking to RMA this board, 2 dead fan headers :/, now the pump is connected to CHA_FAN4.


----------



## reaver83

I'm sure the dead board doesn't help the noise in the Kuhler either


----------



## leoxtxt

Kuhler 920 with 2 x GT 1150RPM (Still looking for the 1850RPM version ;( )
One thing i am not really sure, as you can see on the picture the tubes are a bit "twisted", is it safe ?, i dont exactly plan to have a leak on top of my 600u$d graphic card.


----------



## jam71

According to you with the radiator turned so that the tubes are up, you lose in performance or the same? I shot and the ducting up and I seem to spend a little ', in addition I noticed that the radiator fluid, moving it feels, it means that there is a lot of air in, if I change the tubes and the liquid and fill well without air gain in performance?


----------



## dislikeyou

After trying out everything i was not able to get rid of the clicking sound. I tried to hold the radiator in my hand and move it in all directions to see if it would stop the noise on one. But it did not. Also tried to move the pump upside down but did not help. So i gave up and was thinking to RMA but then i tried the magnet fix once more and now the clicking sound is gone. I hope it does not come back.

So i just taped a smaller magnet onto the pump right above the antec logo and i turned off the light on the logo, because i cant see it glow anyway because of the tape over it. So i will leave the PC on over night and check tomorrow hen i wake up whether there is still noise. If it is, i will RMA both cooler and mobo, else i will not RMA anything. Can live with 2 dead cpu fan headers.


----------



## leoxtxt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> According to you with the radiator turned so that the tubes are up, you lose in performance or the same? I shot and the ducting up and I seem to spend a little ', in addition I noticed that the radiator fluid, moving it feels, it means that there is a lot of air in, if I change the tubes and the liquid and fill well without air gain in performance?


I don't think it matters, but just in case i will flip the radiator tomorrow and check temps again.


----------



## plasticglock

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *K62-RIG*
> 
> post some pics when it's setup. We all love pics.


----------



## Krysaenaar

On my new build i have the Kuhler 920.

There is this very low ticking sound . Nowhere near as bad as ome of the youtube vids i have seen.

Is it normal for the pump / radiator (not sure which) to make this sound or should it be 100% silent (just hear the whoosh of the fans)?

I contacted Antec and this what they said:
Quote:


> Please make sure that you have no CPU FAN controller options enabled in your motherboard's BIOS. Then try to mount the pump with the hoses facing upwards to see if trapped air can be moved in the pump. Let me know how it goes.


This is what i replied to them:
Quote:


> The options in my BIOS are
> 
> 1.Cpu Fan Control mode - Auto, Voltage ot PWM (it is on auto)
> 2.CPU Fan speed control - Normal, Silent, Manual and Disabled(i have tried it on Normal and disabled)
> 
> My case is the Silverstone fortress FT-02 so the radiator is at the top of the case so the hoses face upward.
> 
> The sound is not that bad to be honest. It is more like a very low ticking sound but is noticeable and i read that it should be silent (no ticking)


----------



## jam71

Hello, I need to know the correct order in which I have to connect the hoses to the radiator waterblock and pump-tank, I have the antec 920 and am 'to change tubes and add a tank through.


----------



## Seid Dark

I just bought Kuhler 620. It has a new mounting system, different than the one in the all Youtube videos and reviews. Blue colored plastic inserts have been replaced with black ones and screws are different etc. Can anyone with the new version give me tips about how to install this thing? Manual is confusing, it seems to skip some steps and doesn't even mention all the mounting hardware that is included. Radiator is already installed in the case, I just don't know how to mount the block. I'm typing this with my phone and don't have another computer so I'm kind of desperate to get my rig running ASAP


----------



## reaver83

It's pretty straight forward as far as mounting the pump to the motherboard. You have to remove the factory mounts from the motherboard, install the Kuhler mounts, (with the double sided strips of tape) screw the pump mounting ring down completely, then set the kuhler inside it. then loosen the mounting bracket until you can lift the bracket enough to twist the pump and it lock in place, then tighten the screwsin a cross pattern, (not too tight, just enough to hold it in place). Then plug the 3 pin plug into a fan header on your motherboard, (or to a fan header to molex adapter if you have one). now, making sure the USB plug is right, you want it to be plugged into a USB header with the plug on the top pins, and the pink wire to the left. Also, do not attempt to plug it into a USB3.0 plug, (since you have 2 on your motherboard I figured I should add that).

If you had the 920, I would tell you to turn off any energy savers for your fans, but I do not know how the 620 controls the fans. I think the best way to start the computer the 1st time is to make sure the radiator is higher than the pump to promote any air pockets that may be in the system to run to the radiator, not the pump. Also, allow for your system to be turned upright , and I think the best way to mount the radiator is with the inlet/outlet tubes lower to the ground, that way air can travel to the top and be caught at the top of the radiator, IMO. It may be noisey at first, but should quiet down with use.

With that, GL!


----------



## lightsout

I don't recommend using the double sided tape. When you go to remove it, it will be like concrete after an extended time. Just hold it on there and get a screw started.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I don't recommend using the double sided tape. When you go to remove it, it will be like concrete after an extended time. Just hold it on there and get a screw started.


I kindda agree, NTM it sux if you have to RMA your motherboard, cause they won't frown on double sided tape being latched to the board. Been there, done that.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I don't recommend using the double sided tape. When you go to remove it, it will be like concrete after an extended time. Just hold it on there and get a screw started.
> 
> 
> 
> I kindda agree, NTM it sux if you have to RMA your motherboard, cause they won't frown on double sided tape being latched to the board. Been there, done that.
Click to expand...

Yes I had a hell of a time getting the H50 tape residue off of my CHIV.

And said I would never do that again, then like an idiot did it on my P67 Evo with the rasa block. Ended up killing the board from my impatience and not getting a hair dryer to loosen it up. Broke a couple traces with a small screwdriver trying to pry the block off. Dumb move for sure. But sucked none the less.


----------



## reaver83

I got lucky and a corner was lifted on each piece of tape on mine, gently pulled it down and back til it came off, then ever so gently wiped the resedo off with 80% alcohol. When I got the new board back from Asus I did not put that stuff back on. It was thick and bent the plastic backing anyways. I was seriously thinking of trying to use the factory metal backplate instead of it, but the screw threads were larger.


----------



## Ecopot

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I don't recommend using the double sided tape. When you go to remove it, it will be like concrete after an extended time. Just hold it on there and get a screw started.


doh!! too late..was thininking about that when I stuck it on though.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ecopot*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I don't recommend using the double sided tape. When you go to remove it, it will be like concrete after an extended time. Just hold it on there and get a screw started.
> 
> 
> 
> doh!! too late..was thininking about that when I stuck it on though.
Click to expand...

Just make sure you get a blow dryer or a heat gun when you take it off and it should be ok.


----------



## jam71

Hello, I made my edit gaining about 4 °, but for now I did not pan


----------



## lightsout

What did you do? Just change the tubing?


----------



## Blaze0303

Im in, pics soon!


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Just make sure you get a blow dryer or a heat gun when you take it off and it should be ok.


Be very careful you do not heat up any solder on the board when doing it, I believe the tape would pull solder out if heated.


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> Just make sure you get a blow dryer or a heat gun when you take it off and it should be ok.
> 
> 
> 
> Be very careful you do not heat up any solder on the board when doing it, I believe the tape would pull solder out if heated.
Click to expand...

Yes this is true too. Another reason to not use tape in the first place.


----------



## mushroomtip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Raephen*
> 
> Fishhawk, I agree with the idea that quiet computing and extreme overclocking are mutually exclusive.
> 
> Although, two of the most extreme overclocks I did in my short OCing time were passively cooled: an Atom 330 - from the stock 1,6 to 2,2 GHz - and a Sempron 140 - from 2,7 to 3,5 GHz with a minor Vcore tweak. Both these cpu's I cooled passively. The Atom with the massive Asus heatsink and the Sempron with a Slverstone NT06-E.
> 
> Those both served as my HTPC for a time and did well enough for casual games with the help of a silent, discrete gpu.
> 
> The first and fore most reason I got the Antec H2O 620 was because it takes up so little space on the cpu socket and, on my Asrock mobo, would allow me to install a gpu. Also, it wouldn't block and/or compete for air with an atx psu and because I was curious about watercooling. For about 15 euro's more than a Scythe Samurai ZZ which I *thought* would fit, I could get a H2O 620 which I've read raving reviews about.
> 
> OCing the Core i3-2100T isn't my plan and OCing a SB that's not a K-series isn't that productive. Though it more than suits it's purpose and even seems to outperform the Athlon II X2 250 in my main desktop in a lot of ways. (I'll blame that on the Hyperthreading and 3MB L3 cache in the 2,5 GHz Intel processor.) So I stuck my HD5750 in and yes, in a lot of ways it has even beter performance.
> 
> Ah well, enough of that... I promised you all some amusing pictures yesterday, so here they come:




Correct me if im wrong, why is the top radiator fan placed below the radiator instead of top? Shouldnt the fan be facing the fan grill/opening( in exhaust orientation) instead of below the rad,downwards to the case??


----------



## tx-jose

^^^

Like mine??









Dont mind the tape ***its a long story***


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mushroomtip*
> 
> 
> Correct me if im wrong, why is the top radiator fan placed below the radiator instead of top? Shouldnt the fan be facing the fan grill/opening( in exhaust orientation) instead of below the rad,downwards to the case??


There is no difference in performance between push and pull. At least by this way, he can transfer some of the heat onto the chassis right?


----------



## mushroomtip

ok im quite confuse with all these. can someone educate me on this.

Im going to use antech kuhler 620 onto a small case like the pic above.
The front is an intake fan. There is also a top fan

How do I orientate the top fan and radiator?

Do I want the fan to be mounted on the rad and exhaust out of the case? or blow air into the case/rad

Or another option is mount the rad first and put the fan below it and blow air into the rad?

Sorry if this is a stupid question


----------



## mushroomtip

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tx-jose*
> 
> ^^^
> Like mine??
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dont mind the tape ***its a long story***


Is that the lian li pc q08 and silverstone strider psu? Did u put a gpu in there? Looks like a great setup.
im getting the new lian li pc 18.


----------



## tx-jose

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mushroomtip*
> 
> Is that the lian li pc q08 and silverstone strider psu? Did u put a gpu in there? Looks like a great setup.
> im getting the new lian li pc 18.


its the Lian Li PC Q08B, and a RaidMax 660W psu......I have a EE GTX460 1GB in that pic. its dead now and getting replaced by a EVGA GTX670 SC as soon as newegg gets them in stock


----------



## mushroomtip

^^^^^^^^^

What are youre temps like? Also the top fan is exhausting air out of the case right?


----------



## tx-jose

yeah top fan is exhausting air out and under prime95 blend 34hrs stress test my highest temps were 72*C with 4.4Ghz OC on my first Gen i5 dual core.

GPU got up to 90C cause I was putting some nasty volts through it lol. but on its stock clocks it got to 80C and flat lined there.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Soo.... I said it'd be a pain to take pictures. That's because of where my PC sits. But I know how everyone loves pics. So here they be:








- All unedited.

This is showing the stupid red LED's of a Tt 1225 fan. Mounted outside case and sucking air in.



Quick view of why the PC is so hard to photograph in it's daily position.



Poopy view of 920 mounted.



Better but still poopy.



And my sweet 2.5" mount in normal 3.5" space!











So there you go. Pics. Done did it.


----------



## Hukkel

I have completely missed out on the Antec 620 cooling mod for a gfx card. Is there anyone on here that is using it on a HD6950 reference?
I guess it isn't possible to do this with a fan on it like you can with a GTX card?


----------



## von rottes

Any suggestion for replacement fans on the 620?
The only reason I went with the Kuhler was because my parents don't run the A/C and my computer gets high Ambient temps in the summer.
and with the stock fan plugged into a fan header (running at full speed) I'm getting about 47C load temps and it's not even that hot out yet









I've got my GPU at <65C full load
Hard drives under 40c
and the only other "hot" thing in the case is my NB which has always been hot... and it's running at 55C under a load on the CPU

Thinking a Push/pull but not sure which fans to get.
Also probably going to switch over to mx-4 from AS5









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Soo.... I said it'd be a pain to take pictures. That's because of where my PC sits. But I know how everyone loves pics. So here they be:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> - All unedited.
> This is showing the stupid red LED's of a Tt 1225 fan. Mounted outside case and sucking air in.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Quick view of why the PC is so hard to photograph in it's daily position.
> 
> Poopy view of 920 mounted.
> 
> Better but still poopy.
> 
> And my sweet 2.5" mount in normal 3.5" space!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So there you go. Pics. Done did it.


And I thought my case was messy

*don't mind that 6770 under the 6870 I was just playing around taking pictures.*


----------



## leelin

Can I join?


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> And I thought my case was messy
> 
> *don't mind that 6770 under the 6870 I was just playing around taking pictures.*


Haha.









It's not 'messy' per-se, that's just what it appears in in the pictures. Everything is actually tucked away as best can be, since I have no behind-the-motherboard-cable-routing. Only a slim run on the edge of the board by the bays and the bays themselves. It's actually very clean considering. Plus the PSU isn't modular, so that adds wires.

Temps and airflow are great though. I jimmy'd two 120mm fans on the side instead of the large 230mm side fan which helps the CF cards (nary a space between them).

Case is a Thermaltake V9 Black Edition.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> Any suggestion for replacement fans on the 620?
> The only reason I went with the Kuhler was because my parents don't run the A/C and my computer gets high Ambient temps in the summer.
> and with the stock fan plugged into a fan header (running at full speed) I'm getting about 47C load temps and it's not even that hot out yet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've got my GPU at <65C full load
> Hard drives under 40c
> and the only other "hot" thing in the case is my NB which has always been hot... and it's running at 55C under a load on the CPU
> Thinking a Push/pull but not sure which fans to get.
> Also probably going to switch over to mx-4 from AS5
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And I thought my case was messy
> 
> *don't mind that 6770 under the 6870 I was just playing around taking pictures.*


It looks like the only exhaust on your case is through your radiator.. that means TONS of hot air is leaving your case via the radiator, which can only be as efficient as the air entering it is cool.

You could turn the fan around on the radiator and I'm sure you'll see much better temps, but this will add dust to the system so clean it and the radiator often. Or, get a better case with tons of cool air coming in (Antec 300 is a cheap, effective example) and then run the rear and top fans as exhaust with the front two fans and the side fan as an intake. The cooler the air going through the radiator, the cooler the CPU will run. Also make sure your fans are running at a high enough speed to keep the liquid cool enough so that that CPU is within the range you would like it to be in. It's easy with the 920 software, but not hard with the 620.. just control the fans in the BIOS if you have to and set them to run faster if necessary.

My girlfriend has the same motherboard as you, and you can control the fans in the BIOS. Let me know if you can't figure it out.


----------



## von rottes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> It looks like the only exhaust on your case is through your radiator.. that means TONS of hot air is leaving your case via the radiator, which can only be as efficient as the air entering it is cool.
> You could turn the fan around on the radiator and I'm sure you'll see much better temps, but this will add dust to the system so clean it and the radiator often. Or, get a better case with tons of cool air coming in (Antec 300 is a cheap, effective example) and then run the rear and top fans as exhaust with the front two fans and the side fan as an intake. The cooler the air going through the radiator, the cooler the CPU will run. Also make sure your fans are running at a high enough speed to keep the liquid cool enough so that that CPU is within the range you would like it to be in. It's easy with the 920 software, but not hard with the 620.. just control the fans in the BIOS if you have to and set them to run faster if necessary.
> My girlfriend has the same motherboard as you, and you can control the fans in the BIOS. Let me know if you can't figure it out.


I actually have Three intake fans on the front and the side fan is exhaust.

Hhhm, come to think of it i did reset my bios the other day and smart fan might still be on on the CPU_FAN header


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> I actually have Three intake fans on the front and the side fan is exhaust.
> Hhhm, come to think of it i did reset my bios the other day and smart fan might still be on on the CPU_FAN header


Three fans sounds great to me.. a top fan running slowly for exhaust wouldn't hurt keep the heat out of the case when the CPU fans are running slowly - worked well for me anway..

But yeah, smart fan is likely to make the liquid hover warmer than you might want, resulting in high idle temps. I'll bet load temps will remain just fine - but turning of Q-fan will lower temps all of the time I'm sure


----------



## GanjaSMK

*@FromUndaChz*

This is what I was talking about earlier, glad I found it (regarding Phenom II temperatures)

Just info, FYI type of thing.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> *@FromUndaChz*
> This is what I was talking about earlier, glad I found it (regarding Phenom II temperatures)
> Just info, FYI type of thing.


Thanks for this.

"Why should I use "Core Temp" and when?

AMD designed this equation to accurately read peak (45C+) and load temps. It has an equational offset to determine said temps which equalizes at 45C. Since it's designed for peak temps and is a non-physical temperature it cannot read idle temps or account for ambient temps correctly.

So what is "CPU Temp" good for then?

At peak temps this value is typically 7-10C higher (depending on motherboard) than the actual temp due to it being a physical sensor. At idle it's a little more accurate, but still not dead on, and besides idle temps do not matter near as much as load temps do."

So in your case, your idle temps may be 38C or so, mine are too.. granted I'm OC'd quite a bit but you also have two extra cores. Your idle temps and mine seem about normal - and it's normal for water cooling to idle a bit higher than air cooling - max temps are what matters and we both have improved max temps.

What AMD is saying about the 45C / accuracy thing is that the further below 45C - the less accurate the reading. They go on to say, however, that the core temps typically read 7-10C lower than the MOBO-CPU temp reading (in my case it's 8-15C difference) and so under load we can look to core temps and just worry about those keeping below the 60C limit on these chips.

So yes, you were right and thanks for the link / explanation. But no, your temps were not abnormally high while idling or anything to worry about - as I stated originally, right?

Again thanks for the link









At my current OC I can't get the cores over 37C, at that temp, the MOBO CPU reads 60C so in my case I'm not even heating up to the point where the cores can accurately display their true temps.


----------



## GanjaSMK

They weren't _overly_ high but in my opinion they were _abnormally_ high in comparing the install versus my HDT cooler (Xiggy). After subsequent re-seat and adjustment it seems it's working exactly right now, perfectly too.

I am clock limited by my motherboard. I'm fairly certain it's a power issue and chipset limitation too. That's fine though, I'm good where I'm at.









I don't see the same kind of extreme difference in readings as you do but still far greater. Because of this I tend to gauge temps more closely with the CPU versus the core reading, as it's roughly 10-13 in difference for me. In that respect, I'm all good.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> They weren't _overly_ high but in my opinion they were _abnormally_ high in comparing the install versus my HDT cooler (Xiggy). After subsequent re-seat and adjustment it seems it's working exactly right now, perfectly too.
> I am clock limited by my motherboard. I'm fairly certain it's a power issue and chipset limitation too. That's fine though, I'm good where I'm at.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't see the same kind of extreme difference in readings as you do but still far greater. Because of this I tend to gauge temps more closely with the CPU versus the core reading, as it's roughly 10-13 in difference for me. In that respect, I'm all good.


Yeah, AMD guy says once you're under load and over 45C on the cores, just watch core temps and keep them under 62C, or 60C for extended periods. I wouldn't say 10-15C is extreme as it's actually quite common, but yes it's a big temp difference - it makes sense if you understand where the diode is placed on the CPU socket and that it has no way of being directly cooled.


----------



## von rottes

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Three fans sounds great to me.. a top fan running slowly for exhaust wouldn't hurt keep the heat out of the case when the CPU fans are running slowly - worked well for me anway..
> But yeah, smart fan is likely to make the liquid hover warmer than you might want, resulting in high idle temps. I'll bet load temps will remain just fine - but turning of Q-fan will lower temps all of the time I'm sure


Yep that was it...
was running at 9xxRPM now it's back up to 13xxRPM









Yeah, I'd like to get atleast like a 140mm for the top (if it has the holes for a 140)
since I'm sure I cant run x2 120 of a 200 with the Kuhler









And what was that about a Antec 300?
does the HAF912 not have very good air flow?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> Yep that was it...
> was running at 9xxRPM now it's back up to 13xxRPM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah, I'd like to get atleast like a 140mm for the top (if it has the holes for a 140)
> since I'm sure I cant run x2 120 of a 200 with the Kuhler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And what was that about a Antec 300?
> does the HAF912 not have very good air flow?


Your case has excellent air flow - I actually didn't look at the case in your sig rig, my bad. But yeah, a 140mm fits fine there I think, run it on a low to medium speed, as not to suck too much air from the intake on the radiator.

Glad the issue was just the Q-Fan setting


----------



## SamTheMan1993

Hi everyone, brand new member to this forum.

So about a month ago, I built my computer and put in a Kuhler H20 920 with Green Coolermaster Silent fans, and about a week or two ago I got the dreaded clicking/gargling noise (I've made a video about it- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf5otnEgXbU). This morning, I was reading this thread about some people having the clicking noise, and don't quote me on this, but I inadvertently did something and all of a sudden the noise has stopped.

I read someone's post where they suggested that you plug the Kuhler fans into the motherboard and not the Kuhler. So I opened the case, unplugged the fans and plugged them into the mobo, but I also unknowingly unplugged the fan header which I think runs the pump. I fired her up and left her for some 10-15 mins.

I come back to the clicking noise, and I check the temps... Antec ChillControl was reporting some 55-60 degrees celcius (when it's normally 30 or under), and HWMonitor reported 70 degrees celcius on my 2500k (normally 30-35 degrees). Something's obviously wrong, so I turned it off, undid the changes and turned it back on, everything was fine... About an hour later, I realized there was no noise (the noise would always come on not even 10 mins after turning the computer on). Right now, I've had the computer on for about an hour and so far, so good.

I think what may have happened was by unplugging the pump, the coolant wouldn't have been able to be pushed to the radiator, so it couldn't be cooled, and because hot air rises, the air pockets may have risen and been bled out. Although I'm not sure if hot air rises in water. It's far too early to say whether this may be a definite fix, but we'll see. If anyone has exhausted every other option, can't or don't want to RMA, and want to risk giving this a go, please please please keep an eye on your temps and make sure your CPU is not overclocked. My 2500k is at stock speeds and was pushing 70-75 degrees celcius. Do this at your own risk, I won't be held responsible for any damaged hardware.


----------



## drBlahMan

_*PLEASE, NEED HELP WITH THIS*_*!*

Okay you Khuler owners, I need some serious advice regarding these coolers. I plan to install one of these coolers on the outside rear of my *Fractal Design Core 1000* case. I'm only interested in maintaining a max 4.5GHz OC with my 2500K. Which Khuler would be best for my desire. If the 620 is efficient, would a pair of *GT-AP15* or *Swiftech Helix* be perfect (even on the 920)*?*


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheMan1993*
> 
> Hi everyone, brand new member to this forum.
> So about a month ago, I built my computer and put in a Kuhler H20 920 with Green Coolermaster Silent fans, and about a week or two ago I got the dreaded clicking/gargling noise (I've made a video about it- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jf5otnEgXbU). This morning, I was reading this thread about some people having the clicking noise, and don't quote me on this, but I inadvertently did something and all of a sudden the noise has stopped.
> I read someone's post where they suggested that you plug the Kuhler fans into the motherboard and not the Kuhler. So I opened the case, unplugged the fans and plugged them into the mobo, but I also unknowingly unplugged the fan header which I think runs the pump. I fired her up and left her for some 10-15 mins.
> I come back to the clicking noise, and I check the temps... Antec ChillControl was reporting some 55-60 degrees celcius (when it's normally 30 or under), and HWMonitor reported 70 degrees celcius on my 2500k (normally 30-35 degrees). Something's obviously wrong, so I turned it off, undid the changes and turned it back on, everything was fine... About an hour later, I realized there was no noise (the noise would always come on not even 10 mins after turning the computer on). Right now, I've had the computer on for about an hour and so far, so good.
> I think what may have happened was by unplugging the pump, the coolant wouldn't have been able to be pushed to the radiator, so it couldn't be cooled, and because hot air rises, the air pockets may have risen and been bled out. Although I'm not sure if hot air rises in water. It's far too early to say whether this may be a definite fix, but we'll see. If anyone has exhausted every other option, can't or don't want to RMA, and want to risk giving this a go, please please please keep an eye on your temps and make sure your CPU is not overclocked. My 2500k is at stock speeds and was pushing 70-75 degrees celcius. Do this at your own risk, I won't be held responsible for any damaged hardware.


Dude.

So many people need to do a little research before they buy stuff like this.

If the pump is making noise, there is a SMALL chance that it is bad and needs RMA. Antec is very quick and helpful if that's the case. Call them, not your retailer.

The major cause of pump noise with these is an initial 5 seconds to 5 minutes of noise upon initial use, this is normal for almost any pump to "cavitate" as we call it in the pump industry and make a noise like there are rocks in the pump until air bubbles are worked out of, or at least find a place to sit where they won't get sucked into the pump.

Next, check the Antec software where the pump speed is listed. Be sure that the pump is spinning at rated RPM of 3000 RPM at all times. If it is not, the pump can make noise from spinning too slowly, or too quickly. You can go into the BIOS and turn off and SMART or QUIET (etc) FAN controls in the BIOS and run the full 12V through the pump header.

Plug the fans into the pump and control them with the 920's included software - no need to plug them into the MOBO. IF you plug them into the MOBO you can't use the software included. You can manually set the fan profile in the BIOS, but dont confuse which headers are which. If you confuse the FANS for the PUMP you will end up with pump noise from too fast or too slow pump.

The high temps you experienced are because you were being kind of a n00b (no offense man) and unplugged the pump while the system was on, or turned the system on after unplugging the pump... I'm surprised your BIOS didn't shut the PC down since it probably wasn't getting a TACH reading from the CPU header, or you just had another fan plugged into the wrong header. If the temps are still high, you likely botched the install of the pump and didn't tighten the screws enough/evenly.

Hopefully this helps you out. Also, try orienting the hoses so that they come out the bottom of the radiator, and not the top for now. See if that shuts it up if the above doesn't work (This would indicate that the radiator wasn't properly filled and should be exchanged IMO)

Couldn't see much in the video with those green LEDs blaring - try turning a light on in there when you record it so we can see the orientation of everything a bit better. Might try slowing all of those fans down some so we can hear the pump better, although it is audible but barely. Shouldn't need those fans up nearly that high with a water loop


----------



## leelin

I initially ran the 620 on my 2600K but I wasn't happy with the temps hitting 73deg under intel burn test @ 4.6Ghz so I got the 920. Now I max out at 69deg with a silent fan profile. so the 620 should be enough for the 2500K & I would go with the GT-AP15 x 2, that setup would be more than fine, I was running the standard Antec fan + a 1200rpm case fan on mine. The 4deg temp difference doesn't really justify the price difference to me & the 920 uses 4 wire PWM fans, so the GT-AP15 wouldn't work with the software provided with the 920. hope that helps.
Just fyi, my 1090T @ 3.8Ghz hit a massive 51deg max load temp under intel burn test with the 620, its an awesome cooler.


----------



## jopy

hi anyone tried these pwm fans push pull on their 920?
http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=5&id=30&tab=2

or any good noise to performance pwm fans do you guys recommend?

thanks


----------



## drBlahMan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leelin*
> 
> I initially ran the 620 on my 2600K but I wasn't happy with the temps hitting 73deg under intel burn test @ 4.6Ghz so I got the 920. Now I max out at 69deg with a silent fan profile. so the 620 should be enough for the 2500K & I would go with the GT-AP15 x 2, that setup would be more than fine, I was running the standard Antec fan + a 1200rpm case fan on mine. The 4deg temp difference doesn't really justify the price difference to me & the 920 uses 4 wire PWM fans, so the GT-AP15 wouldn't work with the software provided with the 920. hope that helps.
> Just fyi, my 1090T @ 3.8Ghz hit a massive 51deg max load temp under intel burn test with the 620, its an awesome cooler.


_Thanks for responding to my question in *post #1840*_


----------



## SamTheMan1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Next, check the Antec software where the pump speed is listed. Be sure that the pump is spinning at rated RPM of 3000 RPM at all times. If it is not, the pump can make noise from spinning too slowly, or too quickly. You can go into the BIOS and turn off and SMART or QUIET (etc) FAN controls in the BIOS and run the full 12V through the pump header.


ChillControl V reports the pump around 2900-3000 most of the time. Lowest I've seen it drop to is 2800. I've checked the fan settings in the BIOS and it's set to "full on" by default.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> The high temps you experienced are because you were being kind of a n00b (no offense man) and unplugged the pump while the system was on, or turned the system on after unplugging the pump... I'm surprised your BIOS didn't shut the PC down since it probably wasn't getting a TACH reading from the CPU header, or you just had another fan plugged into the wrong header. If the temps are still high, you likely botched the install of the pump and didn't tighten the screws enough/evenly.


I had both fans plugged into my 2 CPU fan headers. The temps are never high, they're always under 30 celcius (except when i unknowingly unplugged the pump).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Hopefully this helps you out. Also, try orienting the hoses so that they come out the bottom of the radiator, and not the top for now. See if that shuts it up if the above doesn't work (This would indicate that the radiator wasn't properly filled and should be exchanged IMO)
> Couldn't see much in the video with those green LEDs blaring - try turning a light on in there when you record it so we can see the orientation of everything a bit better. Might try slowing all of those fans down some so we can hear the pump better, although it is audible but barely.


The hoses are oriented so they're at 7-8'o'clock on the circle thingo.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Shouldn't need those fans up nearly that high with a water loop


Oh sorry, didn't know this was passive-aggressive-elitists.net


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheMan1993*
> 
> ChillControl V reports the pump around 2900-3000 most of the time. Lowest I've seen it drop to is 2800. I've checked the fan settings in the BIOS and it's set to "full on" by default.
> I had both fans plugged into my 2 CPU fan headers. The temps are never high, they're always under 30 celcius (except when i unknowingly unplugged the pump).
> The hoses are oriented so they're at 7-8'o'clock on the circle thingo.
> Oh sorry, didn't know this was passive-aggressive-elitists.net


It had nothing to do with being passive aggressive, don't come on here and be rude to people trying to help I was simply making an observation about the fan speed being unnecessarily high and I was trying to help you with your water loop as somebody who clearly knows something more about the loop than you - since you can't seem to get any part of the system operating efficiently.

You then proceed to try and spread hysteria over these pumps like they're bad units by making crap statements and warnings about them when you can't even connect the fans up properly.

Have fun on here with that kind of attitude, especially when people are trying to help you out









I would change your tune if you want help around here - what comes around goes around and nobody likes a new member swinging his balls around.








.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> It had nothing to do with being passive aggressive, don't come on here and be rude to people trying to help I was simply making an observation about the fan speed being unnecessarily high and I was trying to help you with your water loop as somebody who clearly knows something more about the loop than you - since you can't seem to get any part of the system operating efficiently.
> 
> You then proceed to try and spread hysteria over these pumps like they're bad units by making crap statements and warnings about them when you can't even connect the fans up properly.
> 
> Have fun on here with that kind of attitude, especially when people are trying to help you out


Your condescending response speaks volumes towards the labeling of you as a *passive-aggressive-elitest*.

What's bothering you lately? Anything out of the ordinary? Is your perception of the world in which you live not meeting at the boundaries of others?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Your condescending response speaks volumes towards the labeling of you as a *passive-aggressive-elitest*.
> What's bothering you lately? Anything out of the ordinary? Is your perception of the world in which you live not meeting at the boundaries of others?


Smoke another one buddy, and mind your own business









What is your problem with me Ganj? Do you follow my posts and just wait for an opportunity to be a PITA? It's terribly sad that you have nothing better to do than to try and rile me up every chance you get.
.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Your condescending response speaks volumes towards the labeling of you as a *passive-aggressive-elitest*.
> What's bothering you lately? Anything out of the ordinary? Is your perception of the world in which you live not meeting at the boundaries of others?
> 
> 
> 
> Smoke another one buddy, and mind your own business
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What is your problem with me Ganj? Do you follow my posts and just wait for an opportunity to be a PITA? It's terribly sad that you have nothing better to do than to try and rile me up every chance you get.
> .
Click to expand...

I have no problem with you. And I'm not sure how that makes me a PITA? And when did I try to rile you up previously? I haven't intended on riling you up in any of my posts.

Your perception is mightily skewed as I pointed out. Smoke another one I will, thanks for the suggestion! It's not my business and in that you're right.

My questions were just fluff and padding in trying to get you to divulge why you would take something so terribly personally, and were mere musings of mine in a philosophical bout of rambling on my previous statement.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Dude, go somewhere. I don't know why you got involved in the conversation. If the OP was offended by my trying to help him, that's cool - he can piss off. As for you, you're just clearly here to be a PITA - that's not helping anything or anyone.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Dude, go somewhere. I don't know why you got involved in the conversation. If the OP was offended by my trying to help him, that's cool - he can piss off. As for you, you're just clearly here to be a PITA - that's not helping anything or anyone.


Oh you may believe what you want, trust me many people do. Do you have any specific places I should go? I didn't need to get in the conversation - that's also true. The OP can post what he want, that's true too. I didn't have to post but I did because I thought, "You know what, that sounds rather condescending and I should point that out." So I did.

As for me, I'm just a dude, who responds to the world in the way he does. Deal with it? No, that's too harsh sounding - let me rephrase. Perhaps while my observations shouldn't always merit a communication of some sort, rather, I should be weary of the ways in which some individuals choose to present their own observations while reluctantly offering my observation to only my mind. Instead I decided to opt for another route.

Can you correspond without insults?


----------



## leelin

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jopy*
> 
> hi anyone tried these pwm fans push pull on their 920?
> http://www.gelidsolutions.com/products/index.php?lid=2&cid=5&id=30&tab=2
> or any good noise to performance pwm fans do you guys recommend?
> thanks


Fans seem to be tricky for the 920. Those Gelids look to be terrible with only 58CFM & 1.6mm H2O static pressure @ 1500rpm max.
After browsing this thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-threadhttp://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread
I decided to go with the CM Blademasters because of their high CFM & static pressure.
However, I am now running 2 CM Xtraflows (as of today) & so far they are performing very well, slightly less noisy than the Blademasters with equal performance, but that's just my opinion.
I also noticed quite a bit of airflow at the side of my radiator, so I applied silicone sealent along the sides to fill the gap between the fan & radiator.
Hope that helps?


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leelin*
> 
> Fans seem to be tricky for the 920. Those Gelids look to be terrible with only 58CFM & 1.6mm H2O static pressure @ 1500rpm max.
> After browsing this thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-threadhttp://www.overclock.net/t/859483/round-6-fan-testing-working-thread
> I decided to go with the CM Blademasters because of their high CFM & static pressure.
> However, I am now running 2 CM Xtraflows (as of today) & so far they are performing very well, slightly less noisy than the Blademasters with equal performance, but that's just my opinion.
> I also noticed quite a bit of airflow at the side of my radiator, so I applied silicone sealent along the sides to fill the gap between the fan & radiator.
> Hope that helps?


thanks







tat link helps alot


----------



## SamTheMan1993

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> It had nothing to do with being passive aggressive, don't come on here and be rude to people trying to help I was simply making an observation about the fan speed being unnecessarily high and I was trying to help you with your water loop as somebody who clearly knows something more about the loop than you - since you can't seem to get any part of the system operating efficiently.
> You then proceed to try and spread hysteria over these pumps like they're bad units by making crap statements and warnings about them when you can't even connect the fans up properly.
> Have fun on here with that kind of attitude, especially when people are trying to help you out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would change your tune if you want help around here - what comes around goes around and nobody likes a new member swinging his balls around.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Being rude? Swinging my balls? That's funny because you instigated, smart guy. If you even noticed in that video, I turned the case fans down before opening the side panel. The airflow in my case goes straight up, so I can't exactly help the noise in the video. As for not being able "to get any part of the system operating efficiently", the clicking noise has mostly subsided for me (comes and goes- it's alot quieter now) and the temps are always around 27-28 degrees at idle and 40 or so at full load on HWMonitor. And "spreading hysteria"? What? All I did was tell of how I accidentally unplugged the pump and suggested to anyone who would be in the situation that they have the same problem, have tried every suggestion and can't or don't want to RMA to have their CPU run at stock clocks to prevent shutdown from overheating.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Have fun on here with that kind of attitude, especially when people are trying to help you out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would change your tune if you want help around here - what comes around goes around and nobody likes a new member swinging his balls around.


Yep, I'm sure gonna have alot of fun putting up with passive-aggressive-elitist ****s like you who instigate and then try and twist my words in order to bolster their e-peen. I put up with enough ****heads like you in real life. Here's a tip for "helping" people buddy- Don't be a ******* **** about it.


----------



## von rottes

Just sayin' Bro..

You pointed out you thought he was "passive-aggressive-elitist" he replied... should have ended there. but no, you are just dragging it out......something about instigating?

And the censored language sir and/or Madam, it's quite rude


----------



## lightsout

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> It had nothing to do with being passive aggressive, don't come on here and be rude to people trying to help I was simply making an observation about the fan speed being unnecessarily high and I was trying to help you with your water loop as somebody who clearly knows something more about the loop than you - since you can't seem to get any part of the system operating efficiently.
> 
> You then proceed to try and spread hysteria over these pumps like they're bad units by making crap statements and warnings about them when you can't even connect the fans up properly.
> 
> Have fun on here with that kind of attitude, especially when people are trying to help you out
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your condescending response speaks volumes towards the labeling of you as a *passive-aggressive-elitest*.
> 
> What's bothering you lately? Anything out of the ordinary? Is your perception of the world in which you live not meeting at the boundaries of others?
Click to expand...

I have to agree. FromUndaChz your sucks around here man. I've noticed it in multiple threads and wanted to say something. You should watch how you talk to people it's not cool.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Oh you may believe what you want, trust me many people do. Do you have any specific places I should go? I didn't need to get in the conversation - that's also true. The OP can post what he want, that's true too. I didn't have to post but I did because I thought, "You know what, that sounds rather condescending and I should point that out." So I did.
> As for me, I'm just a dude, who responds to the world in the way he does. Deal with it? No, that's too harsh sounding - let me rephrase. Perhaps while my observations shouldn't always merit a communication of some sort, rather, I should be weary of the ways in which some individuals choose to present their own observations while reluctantly offering my observation to only my mind. Instead I decided to opt for another route.
> Can you correspond without insults?


You should shove your head up further where it already is, that's where. Stop trying to sound intelligent and philosophical, Shakespeare.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SamTheMan1993*
> 
> Being rude? Swinging my balls? That's funny because you instigated, smart guy. If you even noticed in that video, I turned the case fans down before opening the side panel. The airflow in my case goes straight up, so I can't exactly help the noise in the video. As for not being able "to get any part of the system operating efficiently", the clicking noise has mostly subsided for me (comes and goes- it's alot quieter now) and the temps are always around 27-28 degrees at idle and 40 or so at full load on HWMonitor. And "spreading hysteria"? What? All I did was tell of how I accidentally unplugged the pump and suggested to anyone who would be in the situation that they have the same problem, have tried every suggestion and can't or don't want to RMA to have their CPU run at stock clocks to prevent shutdown from overheating.
> Yep, I'm sure gonna have alot of fun putting up with passive-aggressive-elitist ****s like you who instigate and then try and twist my words in order to bolster their e-peen. I put up with enough ****heads like you in real life. Here's a tip for "helping" people buddy- Don't be a ******* **** about it.


You were rude to take my helping you, and turn that around on me and try and tell me that I was basically trying to be a jerk. Why would I try and help somebody and purposely try to come off like a jerk in the process? This is madness.

Nice infraction BTW, n00b.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lightsout*
> 
> I have to agree. FromUndaChz your sucks around here man. I've noticed it in multiple threads and wanted to say something. You should watch how you talk to people it's not cool.


My what sucks? My attitude you probably meant..? Yeah my attitude does suck when I get relentlessly attacked by the same group of people over and over again for simply giving helpful advice from my experience. If you don't like it, don't read my posts and offer up some of your own help instead of being useless.


----------



## FromUndaChz

I guess I've figured out that I'd just better not contribute around here or I'll be chastised for opening my mouth. I can help, or I can just state an opinion, or I can actually be a jerk, and either way I'll take flak from it because I have groupies following me around looking to pounce on my every move which could possibly be perceived as even remotely off-putting to any human being whom may come across it.

But you know what? I think it would make you trolls happy if I just shut and disappeared, so I think I'll continue to help, or hinder people - whichever you perceive it as - since that's your own opinion - and I have no control over that. I hope that my presence makes your stay here at overclock.net all the more annoying and uncomfortable.


----------



## GanjaSMK

*@FromUndaChz*

It's painfully obvious how rude, condescending, and immature you are. Are you like this in real life? Do you spread your disdain daily? Why do you have a chip on your shoulder?

I don't need to _sound intelligent_ because I am. Oh and philosophy and Shakespeare, compliments you hadn't intended to give? I'll take them!

Take it easy buddy, we wish you well!


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> *@FromUndaChz*
> It's painfully obvious how rude, condescending, and immature you are. Are you like this in real life? Do you spread your disdain daily? Why do you have a chip on your shoulder?
> I don't need to _sound intelligent_ because I am. Oh and philosophy and Shakespeare, compliments you hadn't intended to give? I'll take them!
> Take it easy buddy, we wish you well!


I'm not going to continue to respond to your incessant trolling. You're being immature, I'm defending myself from being attacked for trying to help. People just get too butthurt on here, it's sickening. Just stop looking for reasons why you can attack my tone, and my tone won't seem so offensive. Tone can't be read in text so stop trying to extrapolate it from somewhere it doesn't exist.

Shall I write up a tutorial (in as non-offensive manner as possible) as to how to use the "block" button under my profile?
.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> *@FromUndaChz*
> It's painfully obvious how rude, condescending, and immature you are. Are you like this in real life? Do you spread your disdain daily? Why do you have a chip on your shoulder?
> I don't need to _sound intelligent_ because I am. Oh and philosophy and Shakespeare, compliments you hadn't intended to give? I'll take them!
> Take it easy buddy, we wish you well!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm not going to continue to respond to your incessant trolling. You're being immature, I'm defending myself from being attacked for trying to help. People just get too butthurt on here, it's sickening. Just stop looking for reasons why you can attack my tone, and my tone won't seem so offensive. Tone can't be read in text so stop trying to extrapolate it from somewhere it doesn't exist.
> .
Click to expand...

Anyone with logic and reasoning can clearly see your intentions, your 'tone', and how brazen you are. I'm not extrapolating anything from anything - it's all there buddy! Go back and read it for yourself!

You are defending your _position_ which is condescending and rude, not from being attacked. Re-read your posts, you'll see. If you don't its understandable. Most people perceive their own communications differently than they are interpreted, especially when in written form.

I've thrown no insults at you - go back and read my posts to verify if you like. You won't though. I'm sure of that. Its your prerogative.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Calling me immature isn't an insult?

Insinuating that I'm just here to be a jerk isn't an insult?

You're delusional. You clearly perceive your own communications differently then they are interpreted, especially when in written form.

If the above statements are true - I too, then, have thrown no insults at you.









Just drop it, child.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Pointing out what you're doing, how you have reacted and how you continue your assault, those are not insults. They are observations.

_I'm_ not _delusional_.









And to be fair, it's been a long time since I was a _child_, but I try to remain youthful in my adult life.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Pointing out what you're doing, how you have reacted and how you continue your assault, those are not insults. They are observations.
> _I'm_ not _delusional_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to be fair, it's been a long time since I was a _child_, but I try to remain youthful in my adult life.


Well good for you then.. I'm glad you feel so youthful and that you are so observant. Those can be excellent traits to have!

I think you must be so much of a better, and happier person to have those wonderful traits of yours.

Please, do tell me more about your lovely assets


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Pointing out what you're doing, how you have reacted and how you continue your assault, those are not insults. They are observations.
> _I'm_ not _delusional_.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And to be fair, it's been a long time since I was a _child_, but I try to remain youthful in my adult life.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well good for you then.. I'm glad you feel so youthful and that you are so observant. Those can be excellent traits to have!
> 
> I think you must be so much of a better, and happier person to have those wonderful traits of yours.
> 
> Please, do tell me more about your lovely assets
Click to expand...

If you were a woman I might!









Fiery woman can be a sexy thing, to be sure!









Are you finally finding or doing something that is relaxing you?









I'm impressed that you're _finally_ offering responses without insults!









A pleasant change!


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> If you were a woman I might!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fiery woman can be a sexy thing, to be sure!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you finally finding or doing something that is relaxing you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm impressed that you're _finally_ offering responses without insults!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pleasant change!


You've seem to have caught me shortly after smoking a bong...


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> If you were a woman I might!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Fiery woman can be a sexy thing, to be sure!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Are you finally finding or doing something that is relaxing you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm impressed that you're _finally_ offering responses without insults!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> A pleasant change!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You've seem to have caught me shortly after smoking a bong...
Click to expand...

Sounds good to me as long as the stuff is green!


----------



## von rottes

Would a mod please just delete this childish argument?
Seriously.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *von rottes*
> 
> Would a mod please just delete this childish argument?
> Seriously.


They will. They always do. They have nothing else to do with themselves


----------



## iusearayK47

hey anybody with the cougar vortex pwn fans tell me how the performance is like compared to the stock fans on the kuhler 920?

i'm getting sick of the stock fans' noise, it's like always sounding like a jet engine 24/7 at like 47db and 2100 rpm


----------



## minimodman

i picked up the 620 few days ago. read through most of the comments in this thread specifically looking for identical screws for push/pull. i found some at the antec (8 screw / washer $4) store but its out of stock for now.

http://store.antec.com/Product/accessory-spare_parts/fan-screws-30mm-panhead/SPAREP-00515.aspx


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> They will. They always do. They have nothing else to do with themselves


What if bouth of you stops talking to eatch other at the same time? Or else this seems to never end,hehe.This thread has gone wild


----------



## aggr08

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimodman*
> 
> i picked up the 620 few days ago. read through most of the comments in this thread specifically looking for identical screws for push/pull. i found some at the antec (8 screw / washer $4) store but its out of stock for now.
> http://store.antec.com/Product/accessory-spare_parts/fan-screws-30mm-panhead/SPAREP-00515.aspx


I had to buy some extra screws to make the 620 fit in my case. I ended up getting 75 silver Size 6-32 x 1-1/2 inch machine screws for $4.00. The ones that come with the cooler are 6-32 1-1/4 inch, but as mentioned I needed some a bit longer to fit a fan grill over the fan as well. My local hardware store had a pack of 8 silver 6-32 1-1/4 inch ones for about $1.50.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *minimodman*
> 
> i picked up the 620 few days ago. read through most of the comments in this thread specifically looking for identical screws for push/pull. i found some at the antec (8 screw / washer $4) store but its out of stock for now.
> http://store.antec.com/Product/accessory-spare_parts/fan-screws-30mm-panhead/SPAREP-00515.aspx


You can still do push pull with 4 screws...just use two on push and two on pull but screw them on diagonally.


----------



## esc1a

Hi, i just recent buy the h20 620, so i got a few question, i been reading the 188page of comment. I am still on page 50.









First,
From the comment, we all know you can plug the 3 pin male header wire on the pump to any 3 pin slot in the MB or to the PSU. This will let the pump running at full speed without the click I hope.
( DO NOT PLUG TO THE CPU_FAN HEADER, ONLY IF YOU CAN DISABLE THE PWM FAN CONTROL IN THE BIOS)

Second.
I will not plug the fan to the female plug on the pump.
Instead, I was planing to buy 2 pwm fan + y slpiter and plug that into the CPU PWM slot, and has the MB/CPU control the fan rpm depend on the temperature of the CPU.

Will this work better and will it loss any perform.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *esc1a*
> 
> Hi, i just recent buy the h20 620, so i got a few question, i been reading the 188page of comment. I am still on page 50.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> FIrst,
> From the comment, we all know you can plug the 3 pin header for the pump to any 3 pin slot in the MB or to the PSU.
> This will let the pump running at full speed without the click I hope.
> Second.
> I will not plug the fan to the female plug on the pump.
> Instead, I was planing to buy 2 pwm fan + y slpiter and plug that into the CPU PWM slot, and has the MB/CPU control the fan rpm.
> Will this work better and will it loss any perform.


You can do what you mentioned if you want to and it should work out just fine... run the pump at 100% whatever way you can, and control the fans with the CPU fan header - they should ramp up when the processor is under load, and be barely audible while idle if you have everything set up right.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812718001 This should work for you.
.


----------



## JFHRageQuit

only thing im unsure of and have contacted both asetek and antec in regaurds to is what liquid would be safe to use as i had to unscrew the hoses from the water block to mount it to my case ie radiator is external on back of case outside of case, also running a push pull with fans, how ever in the way i installed it and unscrewed it i did loose alil bit of the liquid not enough to cause worry cause im still reading the temps i wanted but enough to get me thinking that i could run the hoses to my gpu, as well as other stuff provided i get the waterblocks for them sooo im at a loss as far as what liquid i can use being im worried about future corrosion if i use the wrong type, alas ill probly have to find something that is both copper and aluminum safe ........


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JFHRageQuit*
> 
> only thing im unsure of and have contacted both asetek and antec in regaurds to is what liquid would be safe to use as i had to unscrew the hoses from the water block to mount it to my case ie radiator is external on back of case outside of case, also running a push pull with fans, how ever in the way i installed it and unscrewed it i did loose alil bit of the liquid not enough to cause worry cause im still reading the temps i wanted but enough to get me thinking that i could run the hoses to my gpu, as well as other stuff provided i get the waterblocks for them sooo im at a loss as far as what liquid i can use being im worried about future corrosion if i use the wrong type, alas ill probly have to find something that is both copper and aluminum safe ........


Don't try to run a full water loop on a little antec CPU loop - it's insufficient in many ways for that sort of thing.

Look into a RASA kit.

http://www.xoxide.com/dc-750-kits.html
http://www.xoxide.com/xspc-rasa750rs240-watercoolingkit.html

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c321/s1310/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Cooling_Kits_-_Brands-XSPC_Water_Cooling_Kits-Page1.html


----------



## jagz

Any recommendations for fans to replace/add to the rad on the Kuhler 620?

I'd like to take advantage of the Newegg 20% off all fans offer, The Kuhler's will be for my 580's. Thanks.


----------



## JFHRageQuit

thx for the prompt reply, how ever i do agree with you, but yet am still trying to find the liquid needed to ensure this thing runs cool, or if i futuristically want to flush out the system, at any rate ive managed to drop my tempts even more since ive last posted just by changing out fans still though if any6one has an idea as to what liquid would be safe to flush this out and or in case i want to put my own hoses and or what not on id appreciate it thanks in advance


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JFHRageQuit*
> 
> thx for the prompt reply, how ever i do agree with you, but yet am still trying to find the liquid needed to ensure this thing runs cool, or if i futuristically want to flush out the system, at any rate ive managed to drop my tempts even more since ive last posted just by changing out fans still though if any6one has an idea as to what liquid would be safe to flush this out and or in case i want to put my own hoses and or what not on id appreciate it thanks in advance


It's a maintenance free system.. that's why it's called *closed loop.* There would be no reason to ever flush these systems out, well - that was until you opened it and introduced oxygen into the system - which can now cause corrosion. Changing hoses on these things isn't a really great idea as there will be no standard or solid way to ensure that the hoses were reconnected properly. Nothing about these pre-assembled loops is standard or meant to be worked on or taken apart in any way. Just my two cents, but I'd just suggest you stop messing with that thing before it leaks in your system and you end up with _real_ problems on your hands.


----------



## EternalRest

Add me!


----------



## ktownhero

Add me to the club, I just got my Kuhler 920 yesterday.

First of all, I need to get the negativity out of the way... This was the most miserable installation I have ever experienced in 20 years of building computers. That is not hyperbole. It was almost on the level of doing a car repair on a 20 year old car with rusted bolts everywhere.

The screws that they include in the package for the fan/heatsink are just not long enough. My case has rubber grommets for the fan to go up against, which added roughly 1 or 2mm and the only way to get them on was literally to press with all of my strength and cause the screws to bury themselves into the rubber. Even then, I'm concerned about whether the heatsink mount will hold up. Even without the rubber grommets, the issue was there just using the supplied washers. Would it be that much of a problem to include ~2mm longer screws so that people are guaranteed a nice fit? I'm a handy person, and this installation took me almost 2 hours. Ridiculous. I've emailed Antec about it and requested longer screws, hopefully they will respond.

That out of the way, not that it is minimal as I wouldn't wish this installation on my worst enemy, the cooler itself seems to be very nice. It handles load temps with so much more elegance than my Hyper 212 Evo, and I know it will allow me to push my 3570k to 4.5GHz comfortably for daily use. Great. I am happy with the sound of the device, I think people overblow that "issue" just because it is very loud on extreme... but why would you ever run this on extreme short of when you hit dangerous temps? I left the full setting to 50C liquid temp, which I imagine I will never reach.

On that note, I don't love that the only way to control the fans is in relation to liquid temperature, especially with Ivy Bridge where the chips can fluctuate dramatically in an instant. It could very well be possible that my chip spikes to 100C and the controller software doesn't react for a long time. I don't know how to set my liquid temp to correspond to dangerous CPU temps, if that's even possible given the lag between the CPU heating up and the water heating up. I left it at default of 40C ramp up and 50C extreme for now. Does anybody have advice on this topic?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktownhero*
> 
> Add me to the club, I just got my Kuhler 920 yesterday.
> First of all, I need to get the negativity out of the way... This was the most miserable installation I have ever experienced in 20 years of building computers. That is not hyperbole. It was almost on the level of doing a car repair on a 20 year old car with rusted bolts everywhere.
> The screws that they include in the package for the fan/heatsink are just not long enough. My case has rubber grommets for the fan to go up against, which added roughly 1 or 2mm and the only way to get them on was literally to press with all of my strength and cause the screws to bury themselves into the rubber. Even then, I'm concerned about whether the heatsink mount will hold up. Even without the rubber grommets, the issue was there just using the supplied washers. Would it be that much of a problem to include ~2mm longer screws so that people are guaranteed a nice fit? I'm a handy person, and this installation took me almost 2 hours. Ridiculous. I've emailed Antec about it and requested longer screws, hopefully they will respond.
> That out of the way, not that it is minimal as I wouldn't wish this installation on my worst enemy, the cooler itself seems to be very nice. It handles load temps with so much more elegance than my Hyper 212 Evo, and I know it will allow me to push my 3570k to 4.5GHz comfortably for daily use. Great. I am happy with the sound of the device, I think people overblow that "issue" just because it is very loud on extreme... but why would you ever run this on extreme short of when you hit dangerous temps? I left the full setting to 50C liquid temp, which I imagine I will never reach.
> On that note, I don't love that the only way to control the fans is in relation to liquid temperature, especially with Ivy Bridge where the chips can fluctuate dramatically in an instant. It could very well be possible that my chip spikes to 100C and the controller software doesn't react for a long time. I don't know how to set my liquid temp to correspond to dangerous CPU temps, if that's even possible given the lag between the CPU heating up and the water heating up. I left it at default of 40C ramp up and 50C extreme for now. Does anybody have advice on this topic?


You can plug the fans into the motherboard CPU header and then plug the pump into another header or 12v power source and just make sure the pump is running at 100% or it might make noise and it won't pump effectively. The fans will ramp up based on CPU temps if they're plugged into the CPU fan header.

There is nothing wrong with the temperature of the liquid being the reference for the CPU cooler - this actually makes more sense with water cooling than it would to control the fans via CPU temps, although either way is fine. So long as you monitor your temps under load (like prime95) and set up your liquid temp profile to levels that keep your chip cool enough, the chip will never heat up fast enough, under any load, to overheat before the fans ramp up. This is because the liquid in the cooler takes some time to heat up, and so even if the processor temps spike, the coolant temps are still going to be low for quite some time.. quite enough time for the liquid temp sensor to be aware of the temperature change, and ramp the fans up to a higher speed. The temperature sensor in these is placed inline of the pump outlet - so the warming coolant can be detected instantaneously anyway. This is an issue that you need not worry about.

I didn't have a hard time at all with the installation.. I think you could have bought longer screws and saved yourself a lot of trouble, and maybe not put so much stress on the threads of the radiator and its screws. Not sure the rubber on your case is a reason to complain about the cooler itself but I guess that's just my viewpoint.
.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktownhero*
> 
> *snip*


I didn't use the washers on my installation, I didn't see the need to personally. And for CPU temp control, plug the fans into your 'case fan' headers on your motherboard instead of the y-cable from the block. Then you can set your 'Chassis' fan speed to whatever you want.


----------



## leelin

I don't understand this "screw" problem. I cut mine short, for goodness sake. To make installation easier I screwed the fan onto the radiator with the shortened screws & then used the fan screws to mount everything to the chassis. Easy.


----------



## ktownhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> You can plug the fans into the motherboard CPU header and then plug the pump into another header or 12v power source and just make sure the pump is running at 100% or it might make noise and it won't pump effectively. The fans will ramp up based on CPU temps if they're plugged into the CPU fan header.
> There is nothing wrong with the temperature of the liquid being the reference for the CPU cooler - this actually makes more sense with water cooling than it would to control the fans via CPU temps, although either way is fine. So long as you monitor your temps under load (like prime95) and set up your liquid temp profile to levels that keep your chip cool enough, the chip will never heat up fast enough, under any load, to overheat before the fans ramp up. This is because the liquid in the cooler takes some time to heat up, and so even if the processor temps spike, the coolant temps are still going to be low for quite some time.. quite enough time for the liquid temp sensor to be aware of the temperature change, and ramp the fans up to a higher speed. The temperature sensor in these is placed inline of the pump outlet - so the warming coolant can be detected instantaneously anyway. This is an issue that you need not worry about.
> I didn't have a hard time at all with the installation.. I think you could have bought longer screws and saved yourself a lot of trouble, and maybe not put so much stress on the threads of the radiator and its screws. Not sure the rubber on your case is a reason to complain about the cooler itself but I guess that's just my viewpoint.


When you pay $80 for an item, you expect it to come with the right hardware to install it. There is absolutely no reason for Antec to supply screws that are so narrowly within the range of what works. What would be so terrible about making the screws 2mm longer, or supplying 2 sets of screws which will cost them like 3 cents? Even without the issue of my case grommets, the screws are barely sufficient. In fact, they aren't even long enough to be used with the washers supplied! The grommets on my case are no larger than the supplied washers.

I am ok with the liquid temp control now, I do understand it more. I just did some stress testing with IBT and watched the liquid temp, and used that as a means to determine where I should set the ramp up/full on settings. I love the product in and of itself, it's clearly well made and it works well. I just don't think they are doing themselves any favors by making it the installation so difficult. Putting a couple millimeters on the screws or just throwing 4 longer screws in there would cost them little-to-nothing, but would go a long way towards improving perception of the device. I'm not the first, nor will I be the last, to have this issue.

My 3570k went from spiking at nearly 100C @ 4.4GHz during the IBT "Very High" test, to staying under 80C -- and running at a mere +0.05v offset. So, I'm certainly a fan of its performance









EDIT: As for going out and buying longer screws, that would have been fine (though annoying) had I not already disassembled my 212 Evo and been past the point of no return lol.


----------



## dislikeyou

I sent my Antec 920 to the store, received a replacement yesterday but will build PC again next week when i receive GFX also.

How should i mount it properly to avoid any air bubbles? I see alot of different opinions so i am confused what the correct way is to prevent any air bubbles to get into the pump and making fish tank noise.

Thanks


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktownhero*
> 
> When you pay $80 for an item, you expect it to come with the right hardware to install it. There is absolutely no reason for Antec to supply screws that are so narrowly within the range of what works. What would be so terrible about making the screws 2mm longer, or supplying 2 sets of screws which will cost them like 3 cents? Even without the issue of my case grommets, the screws are barely sufficient. In fact, they aren't even long enough to be used with the washers supplied! The grommets on my case are no larger than the supplied washers.
> I am ok with the liquid temp control now, I do understand it more. I just did some stress testing with IBT and watched the liquid temp, and used that as a means to determine where I should set the ramp up/full on settings. I love the product in and of itself, it's clearly well made and it works well. I just don't think they are doing themselves any favors by making it the installation so difficult. Putting a couple millimeters on the screws or just throwing 4 longer screws in there would cost them little-to-nothing, but would go a long way towards improving perception of the device. I'm not the first, nor will I be the last, to have this issue.
> My 3570k went from spiking at nearly 100C @ 4.4GHz during the IBT "Very High" test, to staying under 80C -- and running at a mere +0.05v offset. So, I'm certainly a fan of its performance
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: As for going out and buying longer screws, that would have been fine (though annoying) had I not already disassembled my 212 Evo and been past the point of no return lol.


The product certainly came with all of the right hardware to install it. You're acting like your isolated issue (caused by a non-standard case design) is the fault of Antec, and essentially acting like the screws that they send with the unit aren't even the correct ones - which they are. I think that's misleading to other members.

I thought the screws could have been a couple of mm longer myself, but the fact that they ARE long enough for any standard case - and your case happens to have rubber grommets around the fan screw holes - does not make that Antec's problem... just my opinion - You can buy proper screws for less than ten cents each so I was more or less unsure of what the complaining was all about when your case is the thing that isn't considered standard. Any normal steel case will not have this issue with the length of the radiator mounting screws, only odd cases with custom niceties such as sound and vibration dampening grommets will have this issue. When you buy cases that have extras like that, sometimes they lead to extra issues - again - I don't see how that is Antec's fault, that is all.

Supplying EVERY customer with two sets of screws would actually cut into their bottom line quite significantly at the end of the year. Companies usually don't usually make the kinds of profits that consumers think they do on products, although obviously sometimes companies can make far more than anybody would think. When you sell hundreds of thousands of units a year, a quarter per unit adds up - I'm sure they made a conscious decision to supply screws that were just long enough for any standard case, in order to keep costs down for the consumer - you and I... My question is - Why should I pay for your longer screws, when 99% of cases on the market won't have an issue with the screws provided?

I'm not trying to argue with you, just trying to make you understand that your problem is an isolated one that the engineers probably didn't care about because they know how easy and cheap it is to get longer ones if need be.. and their concern is usually cost and functionality for the masses over anything else (such as non-standard PC cases). The screws are more than sufficient for any case without the grommets. Remove the grommets if it is an issue. It seems you kind of made a mistake in your decision to put up with the installation being so difficult by not just purchasing longer screws, or simply slicing/removing the unnecessary grommets from the case, IMO. The fact that you "were past the point of no return" is an issue of patience on your part - and not wanting to just wait to use the PC and finish the install until you had the proper hardware to do the install. I was always told not to do something unless I had the proper tools, or in this case, hardware for the job. That little bit has saved me a lot of pain in the past.

Anyway, I'm glad you like it/got it working and installed.








.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> I sent my Antec 920 to the store, received a replacement yesterday but will build PC again next week when i receive GFX also.
> 
> How should i mount it properly to avoid any air bubbles? I see alot of different opinions so i am confused what the correct way is to prevent any air bubbles to get into the pump and making fish tank noise.
> 
> Thanks


According to Antec, there is no specific position to mount it in. Most people from what I can tell seem to prefer either hoses on top or bottom mount. Haven't seen any to the side really (radiator). As for the CPU mount (block), I'd guess that too would depend on what is in your case. I have mine pointing towards the front of the case so the hoses don't hang on the back of my video card (as opposed to the hoses pointing towards the bottom of my case).

But the all-in-all-catch-all answer seems to be that position of the mount / hoses doesn't matter.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> I sent my Antec 920 to the store, received a replacement yesterday but will build PC again next week when i receive GFX also.
> How should i mount it properly to avoid any air bubbles? I see alot of different opinions so i am confused what the correct way is to prevent any air bubbles to get into the pump and making fish tank noise.
> Thanks


You can mount it any way you like... the hoses can go any which way coming from the pump.. The radiator can be mounted with the hoses coming out the top, or the bottom - I suppose sideways would be fine too, but you wouldn't be able to mount the radiator that way in most cases anyway. There isn't much air in these systems and air won't get into them because they're closed loops and maintenance free - so no way for air to get in. Any air that's in there from the factory will find a place to sit in the radiator once the system runs for a few minutes. You may hear noise from the pump for the first minute or so of operation - if it continues past that just check and make sure that the pump is running at 100% or 3,000 RPM on the 920. I don't know anything about the 620, really - but the pumps make noise if they're running too slowly.
.


----------



## ktownhero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> The product certainly came with all of the right hardware to install it. You're acting like your isolated issue (caused by a non-standard case design) is the fault of Antec, and essentially acting like the screws that they send with the unit aren't even the correct ones - which they are. I think that's misleading to other members..


Maybe I got a bad batch or something, but the screws were not long enough to be used even with the supplied washers. This has nothing to do with my case. And if they are the standard sized screws, then they should consider lengthening them. What would it hurt to have screws go further into the heat sink anyway? It would be more secure for everybody, and far easier to install.

I wrote Antec and gave them this feedback.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ktownhero*
> 
> Maybe I got a bad batch or something, but the screws were not long enough to be used even with the supplied washers. This has nothing to do with my case. And if they are the standard sized screws, then they should consider lengthening them. What would it hurt to have screws go further into the heat sink anyway? It would be more secure for everybody, and far easier to install.
> I wrote Antec and gave them this feedback.


You don't need the washers, the heads of the screws are big enough not to pull through on any standard case. Take your washers off, mine went unused also. They're only needed under very specific circumstances.

I agree the screws should be about 1mm maybe 2mm longer... just didn't agree that Antec "didn't provide the necessary hardware" that's all.


----------



## WellIfYouAskMe

Hey guys, I just bought mine today from Best Buy in Santa Rosa, CA. When I opened the box I first read the manual. When I started lifting the product out of the box, I noticed moisture beads in the plastic bag around the pump. The liquid smellsand feels oily. I don't know what to say other than I'm hesitant about exchanging the product for another one. I'm not even going to try to install this in my machine. Has anyone else experienced this?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WellIfYouAskMe*
> 
> Hey guys, I just bought mine today from Best Buy in Santa Rosa, CA. When I opened the box I first read the manual. When I started lifting the product out of the box, I noticed moisture beads in the plastic bag around the pump. The liquid smellsand feels oily. I don't know what to say other than I'm hesitant about exchanging the product for another one. I'm not even going to try to install this in my machine. Has anyone else experienced this?


Not a common issue - read through this thread and you won't find much like that to the best of my knowledge... The oily smell is definitely the the coolant. Switch it out for another, or buy a different product if you feel as though it's the design itself that is to blame. After having a sibling who worked for Geek Squad at Best Buy for a short while, I'd blame Best Buy - lol.

I'm very happy with mine, it seems very well built and I have no worries whatsoever that it will leak, but mine showed up in one piece!


----------



## lightsout

Never seen that before. Just exchange it. Stuff happens.


----------



## WellIfYouAskMe

I will return it and then inspect it first before I buy. Thanks for the reply.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WellIfYouAskMe*
> 
> I will return it and then inspect it first before I buy. Thanks for the reply.


I'll bet (having second hand knowledge from a first hand source about Best Buys' crappy management) that the packaging/shipment that was delivered to the store that your product was in, was kicked/thrown/dropped/shoved/punched/slammed off the truck.

Total bummer to open it up to see it's obviously broken.









Don't let it turn you away from one that is in perfect working condition - the one you got is just a lemon.


----------



## mobkeyman

Anyone know what the stock coolant is in the Kuhler 620?


----------



## peste19

i bought the 620 from frys and this is my first water cooling setup and have a question.

i have been reading the i should connect the fan to the cpu fan header and the pump at a pwr fan header at 100% but my question is do i really want my pump always working at 100%, additionally i see that there are two connectors coming from the plate, i guess one is to power the the pump and than the other is if i wanted to also connect the fan and not use the cpu fan header?

sorry if these are stupid questions

thanks in advance


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *peste19*
> 
> i bought the 620 from frys and this is my first water cooling setup and have a question.
> i have been reading the i should connect the fan to the cpu fan header and the pump at a pwr fan header at 100% but my question is do i really want my pump always working at 100%, additionally i see that there are two connectors coming from the plate, i guess one is to power the the pump and than the other is if i wanted to also connect the fan and not use the cpu fan header?
> sorry if these are stupid questions
> thanks in advance


You want the pump running at 100% or it will often make noise like there are rocks in the system. Nothing wrong with running a pump at 100%, pumps are meant to run at full speed. You can connect the fans to the plug on the pump. I don't know how the fan speed is controlled on the 620, however, after you plug the fans into the pump - On the 920, you use the software to control the fan speeds when they're plugged into the pump.. The 620 has no such software, and may run the fan at full speed - you'll have to try it or wait for somebody who owns the 620 for a sure answer on that.

The pump, however, is just fine at 100% 24/7 - The fans can be plugged in either way you choose... both ways are acceptable - I'm just not positive if the fan speed is controllable in the BIOS on the 620 once the fans are plugged into the pump.


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aggr08*
> 
> I had to buy some extra screws to make the 620 fit in my case. I ended up getting 75 silver Size 6-32 x 1-1/2 inch machine screws for $4.00. The ones that come with the cooler are 6-32 1-1/4 inch, but as mentioned I needed some a bit longer to fit a fan grill over the fan as well. My local hardware store had a pack of 8 silver 6-32 1-1/4 inch ones for about $1.50.


Are they really SAE threads? I would have thought metric. I'm in the same boat here as in this case, I need shorter screws to mount the rad directly to my case (not going for push pull), and I need longer screws so I can use a 38mm fan to push (higher static pressure on the Panaflo fan I will use should negate the need for push/pull with the included 25mm deep fans).

Any chance these are the same thread as the Corsair offerings? I've got screws from my H100 I didn't use. I could break out the caliper and check.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavantStrike*
> 
> Are they really SAE threads? I would have thought metric. I'm in the same boat here as in this case, I need shorter screws to mount the rad directly to my case (not going for push pull), and I need longer screws so I can use a 38mm fan to push (higher static pressure on the Panaflo fan I will use should negate the need for push/pull with the included 25mm deep fans).
> Any chance these are the same thread as the Corsair offerings? I've got screws from my H100 I didn't use. I could break out the caliper and check.


What about an store? Com on, how hard is it to get screws? hehe


----------



## von rottes

Hey guys... I just put a second fan on my 620 for a [ush/pull and after plugging the fan back into the port on the pump it's no longer putting out enough juice to turn a fan....
like if i spin it, it will continue to turn VERY SLOWLY.

I did not to it, just put a second fan on the outside of the case.


----------



## reaver83

well, here is a general rule of thumb for the radiator placement:

radiator higher than CPU= hoses on bottom

radiator lower than CPU=hoses on top

radiator in intake fan slot=Intake the fans

radiator in exhaust fan slot=Exhaust the fans

*If radiator is mounted below the CPU,* it may be a good idea to unplug the system, Loop the PSU so it will run w/o being plugged into the Motherboard, and run the pump a while with the radiator held above the Pump/CPU Block. If the pump makes EXTREMELY loud noise (like louder than a fish tank pump that is air locked) then shake the radiator a little, CAREFULLY so as not to rip the hoses. Once the noise dies down a little, then it is safe to mount the radiator with the hoses on top of the radiator, (I believe).

*Now onto the Setup once installed*:

Immediately Enter BIOS and if the pin header the pump is plugged into has a energy saver function turned on, turn it off and set that pin header to 100%, (if your BIOS allows this) This will keep the pump from making low speed noises. If you are using a 920, install the software AS ADMINISTRATOR. This will allow the CPU to no longer throttle the fans, but the Antec Chill Control Software. Turn off any USB selective suspend options in Power Options of Windows, and select ACTIVE COOLING in the CPU fan controls. Restart the computer to allow it to change the drivers. Then, open Antec CC and set it to CUSTOM. Then, click fan control at the bottom. Immediately change the fan Ramp start temp to at least 30C, and the Full fan speed to 40. Adjust to your liking of the fan ramp, but keep your eye on your Coolant temps, and your CPU temps ( I use Core Temp with the Core Temp Gadget) for the next week or so, just keep tabs on what it does at night (maybe around midnight, or when the computer has been idle late at night for an hour or so) when it's the coolest, and during the middle of the day(Around 3pm) when it's the hottest.

*Final Note:*

If you are using multiple users on your computer, when other use it you may want to log out of your side of the computer because in my personal setup, I have found it will not load on the guest users account unless the program is stopped on my side. I guess this is because it cannot handle 2 instances of it running on the same system. This has become an increasing problem since the times the secondary user is on my computer is during the Hottest part of the day, where if the fans are in silent mode, temps reach as high as 50C! As a precaution, I would suggest Logging out of your side just before another uses the computer, and make sure it loads and a profile is set on their side, and that they do not close Antec CC.


----------



## SavantStrike

Well, if anyone is interested, I got the rad mounted. It turns out the threads are indeed 6-32. It was confusing as I thought asetek made most of the offerings on both the corsair and antec sides. As it turned out, the H100 uses m3, and the antec uses 6-32.

Slightly less off topic, can anyone give me figures as to how much energy this pump draws? Antec seemed confident running the pump + 2 fans off of a motherboard header, but I can't see that being a good idea. As it stands the plan is to run only the pump off of a motherboard header, but it would be nice to know how much this thing draws. I really don't feel like wiring a multimeter in series with it just to find out though.


----------



## rotary7

so you want someone to do it for you?


----------



## Krusher33

Both my H60 and 620 are 6-32 screws. I buy 3" ones and cut them to size depending on my needs.


----------



## wotfor

Just joined the forum, I had a question about the 920. Don't know if I should open a new thread or post in this one - so sorry in advance if i've guessed wrong.

I'm looking at upgrading in steps - put my existing mobo in a new case (Antec P280) and at the same time install a Antec Kuhler 920. mobo is a GA-P55_UD3R (it will get replaced later)
My configuration is a dual boot one - Windows 7 - 64bit, Linux (Fedora 16) 64 bit with grub bootloader.

My question:
Antec software should control the fan speed as normal when I boot Windows, but what will happen when I boot linux - not as a virtual guest - but natively ?
I dont think there are any linux drivers for this device - presumably it will be unknown USB device.
Will the bios manage the fan speed (if set to auto) or will it just run flat out .... or worse ..

EDIT: Just found a linux driver (not pretty but ...) http://sourceforge.net/projects/kuhlerdriver/
My question still remains though - if I don't use the usb cable to control it, will the bios manage the control - presumably it does with the 620 but what about the 920 ?


----------



## SavantStrike

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wotfor*
> 
> Just joined the forum, I had a question about the 920. Don't know if I should open a new thread or post in this one - so sorry in advance if i've guessed wrong.
> I'm looking at upgrading in steps - put my existing mobo in a new case (Antec P280) and at the same time install a Antec Kuhler 920. mobo is a GA-P55_UD3R (it will get replaced later)
> My configuration is a dual boot one - Windows 7 - 64bit, Linux (Fedora 16) 64 bit with grub bootloader.
> My question:
> Antec software should control the fan speed as normal when I boot Windows, but what will happen when I boot linux - not as a virtual guest - but natively ?
> I dont think there are any linux drivers for this device - presumably it will be unknown USB device.
> Will the bios manage the fan speed (if set to auto) or will it just run flat out .... or worse ..
> EDIT: Just found a linux driver (not pretty but ...) http://sourceforge.net/projects/kuhlerdriver/
> My question still remains though - if I don't use the usb cable to control it, will the bios manage the control - presumably it does with the 620 but what about the 920 ?[/quote
> 
> That I can probably test for you in a few days if you'd like
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> My 920 is not actually doing anything yet, but if everything goes according to plan it will be shortly. End of the week tops. If you need the dater sooner I could see if I can't hurry things along, although I won't have temperature data until it's mounted and doing something.
> 
> ]
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Both my H60 and 620 are 6-32 screws. I buy 3" ones and cut them to size depending on my needs.
> 
> 
> 
> That makes a heck of a lot more sense to me. I bought a batch of strange m3 screws that I used to try this with. Maybe they aren't actually M3. I put in a known 6-32 and it worked, I didn't actually pull anything from the corsair to check as it's already mounted and done. The m3's I screwed into it were loose enough they could be pulled out by hand with a little wiggling.
> 
> No matter, I didn't even bother going to the store for screws. I just drilled bigger holes on one side of my panaflo fan so I could get a screwdriver through it and used a pair of end cutters on the screws that came with the 920 and made them shorter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *rotary7*
> 
> so you want someone to do it for you?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Heh, no. I'm perfectly happy to muck about with my own hardware, although in this case it seems like a lot of irritation for data that might not change anything. I'm positive it's under 10 watts which is what my mobo's fan headers are rated for. I just hoped perhaps someone else had the data already. I didn't expect it though TBH. Even the fans it came with don't provide current data on them (I've never seen that before).
Click to expand...


----------



## wotfor

Thanks SavantStrike
I would like to hear how you it goes for you. I haven't bought any kit yet but an upgrade IS going to happen.
Maybe the doco that comes with the 920 is better, but the stuff on Antec's web site is crap.

I've been reading forum posts and a lot of grief has been had by people:-
1) installing software after hardware rather than before ...
2) Shaking radiators to remove air bubbles to get rid of pump noise - after they have installed in case & fitted to mobo ...

A decent level of doco or addendums on Antec web site could have spared these guys a lot of pain from known problems (known to Antec that is)

They actually have an addenda published on their P280 case page advising P280 installers to reorient the power hub when installing a 920 in
the P280 - so its not impossible to update doc. Think I'm going into a rant now - sorry about that.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *wotfor*
> 
> They actually have an addenda published on their P280 case page advising P280 installers to reorient the power hub when installing a 920 in
> the P280 - so its not impossible to update doc. Think I'm going into a rant now - sorry about that.


HOLY CRAP THEY DID!!!







and whatta ya know, they claim the same thing I been screaming the whole time, orient the radiator with the tubes on the bottom. Wheres the Antec Rep that kept poking his head in here a few months ago? should definately make a addendum to the Kuhler page as well!

Also, is there by any chance going to be a update in firmware/software? Would LOVE to be able to ramp the fans to CPU usage rather than coolant temps. I believe the Asetek Coolers have this option on their version of Chill Control.


----------



## vakis

Hello to everybody i am an owner of a antec 620 which is cooling a 4.6ghz 2600k @ 1.36 v.

I have connected a 3 pin Ultra Kaze to my pump header and attached it on the rad. My problem is it keeps at full rpm all the time, was it not supposed to throttle????
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> HOLY CRAP THEY DID!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and whatta ya know, they claim the same thing I been screaming the whole time, orient the radiator with the tubes on the bottom. Wheres the Antec Rep that kept poking his head in here a few months ago? should definately make a addendum to the Kuhler page as well!
> 
> Also, is there by any chance going to be a update in firmware/software? Would LOVE to be able to ramp the fans to CPU usage rather than coolant temps. I believe the Asetek Coolers have this option on their version of Chill Control.


You mean we should place the cooler with the tubes on the bottom??? why so??


----------



## wotfor

Hi vakis

In the manual for the P280 case on Antecs web site there is a section on installing Kuhler units. It says "**Be sure to install the KUHLER H2O with the end of the tubes positioned at the bottom of the radiator"

A pity that the X Bit review shows it differently:
http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/antec-kuhler-h2o-920_3.html

There are threads to google on pump noise. One explanation I read was that hoses coming
out of the radiator should point downward as should hose connections at the Water block. Same as
shown in the video on page 1 of this forum.

But what would I know - I'm still researching the thing !


----------



## tezza192

Put my Kuhler 620 in a special edition 600t, pretty pleased with the look and performance.

Specs:

I7 3770K Ivy Bridge
Nvidia GTX680
Asus Z77 Deluxe
16Gb DDR3
2 X Corsair Force 3 GT SSDs in RAID 0


----------



## vakis

so does the 620 , under any circumastances, lower fan speed? or should i follow another route for controling it? my cpu idles at 40 ( high ambient here, approximately 29-32) and fan is on 100 per cent all the time!


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *vakis*
> 
> so does the 620 , under any circumastances, lower fan speed? or should i follow another route for controling it? my cpu idles at 40 ( high ambient here, approximately 29-32) and fan is on 100 per cent all the time!


Edit the fan settings for the cooler int he BIOS.. the 620 has no software. Look for SMART FAN or Q-FAN or QUIET FAN or something to that nature.. you should be able to use the motherboard manual if you can't figure out how to adjust the fan settings. This is all assuming the fans are plugged into the CPU FAN HEADER. Make sure the pump is plugged into a 12V power source so that it runs at 100% all of the time - the fans will ramp up with CPU temp if you set it up right in the BIOS.


----------



## Molybdenum

I got my Kuhler 620 in the other day and installed it yesterday. This was the most painful installation I have ever done, I swear I must not have been doing it right. The back plate wouldn't stay on the motherboard (I didn't use the sticky pads, I left them covered, but used tape once I was struggling), because it didn't seem to fit properly. The plastic back piece had too much flex and it seemed off, so during installation, I had to hold the back plate against the motherboard, then try to put the cooler down. I ran out of hands here. Between the tubes not wanting to bend, the backplate wanting to come out, and the screws from the block not wanting to go in the holes, it was a miserable experience. I messed up the thermal paste because it took so many tries to line up, but whatever. I'll fix it if I ever want to look at this thing again.

Anyway, what did I screw up? Mine was different than ones i've seen in videos, I had to put on plastic pieces (not color coded) onto the ring to hold the screws. I still have a ring leftover too, the instructions made no mention of it. Anyway, is there a trick or something? I shouldn't have started the project at 12:30 am, but then again, I wasn't expecting it to take two hours. (my case is way too small, made the rad a pain too).


----------



## jagz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wotfor*
> 
> Hi vakis
> In the manual for the P280 case on Antecs web site there is a section on installing Kuhler units. It says "**Be sure to install the KUHLER H2O with the end of the tubes positioned at the bottom of the radiator"
> A pity that the X Bit review shows it differently:
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/antec-kuhler-h2o-920_3.html
> There are threads to google on pump noise. One explanation I read was that hoses coming
> out of the radiator should point downward as should hose connections at the Water block. Same as
> shown in the video on page 1 of this forum.
> But what would I know - I'm still researching the thing !


Interesting, I'll be keeping an eye on this. I use the kuhlers for my 580's, top card's rad has tubes up high. Will switch if there's good reason to.


----------



## GanjaSMK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> I got my Kuhler 620 in the other day and installed it yesterday. This was the most painful installation I have ever done, I swear I must not have been doing it right. The back plate wouldn't stay on the motherboard (I didn't use the sticky pads, I left them covered, but used tape once I was struggling), because it didn't seem to fit properly. The plastic back piece had too much flex and it seemed off, so during installation, I had to hold the back plate against the motherboard, then try to put the cooler down. I ran out of hands here. Between the tubes not wanting to bend, the backplate wanting to come out, and the screws from the block not wanting to go in the holes, it was a miserable experience. I messed up the thermal paste because it took so many tries to line up, but whatever. I'll fix it if I ever want to look at this thing again.
> 
> Anyway, what did I screw up? Mine was different than ones i've seen in videos, I had to put on plastic pieces (not color coded) onto the ring to hold the screws. I still have a ring leftover too, the instructions made no mention of it. Anyway, is there a trick or something? I shouldn't have started the project at 12:30 am, but then again, I wasn't expecting it to take two hours. (my case is way too small, made the rad a pain too).


Don't feel alone. The first installation of it will seem really awkward, especially the CPU-block part. I had confidence issues with my 920 but after playing with it a couple times it made a lot more sense.

Anyways yeah - the manual/visuals are kinda funky (I'm sure its the same on the 620) and doing anything for the first time with something like this may especially feel odd.







Don't afraid!


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Edit the fan settings for the cooler int he BIOS.. the 620 has no software. Look for SMART FAN or Q-FAN or QUIET FAN or something to that nature.. you should be able to use the motherboard manual if you can't figure out how to adjust the fan settings. This is all assuming the fans are plugged into the CPU FAN HEADER. Make sure the pump is plugged into a 12V power source so that it runs at 100% all of the time - the fans will ramp up with CPU temp if you set it up right in the BIOS.


Sorry about the dumb question, but how do an 12v power source look like? I would like to try this, as now I have installed it "corectly" and let the pump manage the fan speed, and that is not the best option it seems


----------



## Molybdenum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> Edit the fan settings for the cooler int he BIOS.. the 620 has no software. Look for SMART FAN or Q-FAN or QUIET FAN or something to that nature.. you should be able to use the motherboard manual if you can't figure out how to adjust the fan settings. This is all assuming the fans are plugged into the CPU FAN HEADER. Make sure the pump is plugged into a 12V power source so that it runs at 100% all of the time - the fans will ramp up with CPU temp if you set it up right in the BIOS.
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry about the dumb question, but how do an 12v power source look like? I would like to try this, as now I have installed it "corectly" and let the pump manage the fan speed, and that is not the best option it seems
Click to expand...

Just plug the pump into a 3 pin header on the motherboard, or use a 3 pin to 4 pin molex (these come with some fans) to run it off the 12V of the PSU. Then the fan can go on a PWM or whatever you want to use to control the speed.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *GanjaSMK*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> I got my Kuhler 620 in the other day and installed it yesterday. This was the most painful installation I have ever done, I swear I must not have been doing it right. The back plate wouldn't stay on the motherboard (I didn't use the sticky pads, I left them covered, but used tape once I was struggling), because it didn't seem to fit properly. The plastic back piece had too much flex and it seemed off, so during installation, I had to hold the back plate against the motherboard, then try to put the cooler down. I ran out of hands here. Between the tubes not wanting to bend, the backplate wanting to come out, and the screws from the block not wanting to go in the holes, it was a miserable experience. I messed up the thermal paste because it took so many tries to line up, but whatever. I'll fix it if I ever want to look at this thing again.
> 
> Anyway, what did I screw up? Mine was different than ones i've seen in videos, I had to put on plastic pieces (not color coded) onto the ring to hold the screws. I still have a ring leftover too, the instructions made no mention of it. Anyway, is there a trick or something? I shouldn't have started the project at 12:30 am, but then again, I wasn't expecting it to take two hours. (my case is way too small, made the rad a pain too).
> 
> 
> 
> Don't feel alone. The first installation of it will seem really awkward, especially the CPU-block part. I had confidence issues with my 920 but after playing with it a couple times it made a lot more sense.
> 
> Anyways yeah - the manual/visuals are kinda funky (I'm sure its the same on the 620) and doing anything for the first time with something like this may especially feel odd.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't afraid!
Click to expand...

Thanks, any general installation tips? I guess I want to try getting it right and seeing how the temps are before totally giving up on it or moving it to my graphics card. It just seemed like I was doing it wrong because it didn't really fit.

And is there any 'wrong' way to position the rad, if it isn't making noise? I might try turning it on its side (with the fins lying flat) and mounting it on the top of the case or maybe even try rotating 90 degress to let lie awkwardly on the bottom if I do go for the video card route.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> Just plug the pump into a 3 pin header on the motherboard, or use a 3 pin to 4 pin molex (these come with some fans) to run it off the 12V of the PSU. Then the fan can go on a PWM or whatever you want to use to control the speed.


This.


----------



## TheBirdman74

*UPDATE: My Antec Kuhler Pump Has Started Making Rattling Noises, AGAIN!*

This Sucks Big Time! I hate YOU ANTEC!!
















I am on my 3rd Kuhler 620 and this thing has started making the ghey rattling and grinding noise like a concord is passing my window!!








The thing is audible over all my fans and I am well over two feet away from my computer. My H70 in the past two years of service has never made such rattle.

*What the hell is up with antec and their quality control? there are so many people online with this same ******ed impaler shaft rattling noise problem that its ridiculous
*

http://forums.hexus.net/antec-care-hexus/204695-clicking-sound-antec-kuhler-920-a.html

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/267970-29-antec-kuhler-pump-noise

http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/110#post_13257541

http://www.overclock.net/t/1243054/antec-kuhler-620-rattling-issues-are-there-antec-reps-here

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tu7frR3A9Fw

http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club/1560

http://www.overclock.net/t/1243054/antec-kuhler-620-rattling-issues-are-there-antec-reps-here/10#post_17045104

http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?p=21343569

http://www.overclock.net/t/1034169/antec-kuhler-clicking-thread

I have Had it with Antec.
I have already spent over $20 shipping the last two units back and forth.
Not buying another Antec Kuhler again, never recommending it to anybody either. not until Antec has better products that dont make noise!!!
its a Shame because the Kuhler was a really nice cooler, too bad quite operation is considered lucky if you buy these units.


----------



## asmodyus

So maybe you guys can help me out I am replacing my fans on my Antec h20 920 and here or the ones I am down to.

Cooler Master SickleFlow http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9301/fan-577/Cooler_Master_SickleFlow_120x25mm_Super_Silent_Fan_-_Red_LED_-_R4-L2R-20AR-R1.html?tl=g36c331s518 *69.69 CFM 19 dB-A*

SlienX Fan http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14511/fan-945/SilenX_120x120x25mm_-_15dBA_-_74CFM_Effizio_Series_Led_Fan_-_Red_EFX-12-15R.html?tl=g36c331s518 *74 CFM 15 dB*

Aerocool Shark http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12204/fan-795/Aerocool_Shark_Red_Edition_120mm_x_25mm_High_Air_Pressure_Fan_w_Red_LEDs.html?tl=g36c331s518 *82.6 CMF 26.5dBA*

Don't know if you guys have used these fans and what going to get me the best temps.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> I have Had it with Antec.
> I have already spent over $20 shipping the last two units back and forth.
> Not buying another Antec Kuhler again, never recommending it to anybody either. not until Antec has better products that dont make noise!!!
> its a Shame because the Kuhler was a really nice cooler, too bad quite operation is considered lucky if you buy these units.


 I've snipped alot of your post because I hate long posts.

Honestly, is that youtube video of yours? if so, um, mine MAY make that noise when I 1st put power to it, but I've NEVER ran mine without the rest of the system running, so I wouldn't hear a miniscule noise like that. Once again, I'll point to the teardown of these Pumps on the 1st post. THEY ARE FISH TANK FILTER STYLE PUMPS, Never seen a fish tank that was COMPLETELY quiet.

Do yourself a favor, hook your system up, all fans and everything, and then post a video of if you can hear the darn thing over your fans. If not, then your OVERREACTING. If you just want your money back, tell Antec that, quit spending money just to knit pick every slight noise.

If you followed the little guide I posted a couple pages back, then as little as that noise is, it will go away in about 2 days. The liquid lubricates it.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> I've snipped alot of your post because I hate long posts.
> 
> Honestly, is that youtube video of yours? if so, um, mine MAY make that noise when I 1st put power to it, but I've NEVER ran mine without the rest of the system running, so I wouldn't hear a miniscule noise like that. Once again, I'll point to the teardown of these Pumps on the 1st post. THEY ARE FISH TANK FILTER STYLE PUMPS, Never seen a fish tank that was COMPLETELY quiet.
> 
> Do yourself a favor, hook your system up, all fans and everything, and then post a video of if you can hear the darn thing over your fans. If not, then your OVERREACTING. If you just want your money back, tell Antec that, quit spending money just to knit pick every slight noise.
> 
> If you followed the little guide I posted a couple pages back, then as little as that noise is, it will go away in about 2 days. The liquid lubricates it.


You got me wrong Bud,









*First* of all look at your post, Its LONGER!! Mine only _looks_ longer because I gave some links to a small number of people who are having same issues. Actually Go Click those links and see what others have to say...

*Second* this is my Third yes *3rd* Kuhler that has failed on me. 3 units in a row that had same or similar problems, the first two had grinding noises and this one has a lower frequency rattling noise.

*Third*, I also know how they sound, very quite, and I also know how they look inside, I did a tear down on my friends one. They have a SLIGHT hum if you get within a few inches close, but that cant be heard once the case is closed.

Now, Please do me and yourself a favor, take a couple of minutes of your time, show some decency and try to pay attention to actually read what a guy writes before jumping and blaming him of OVERREACTING.







I know how these units sound dude, I have tried all the methods I found on this thread and online. Nothing helped! The Sound is Similar when your glass windows start shaking when a Concord lands near your house or if you turn the bass up too high. They Grind and the noise can be heard two feet away over all my case fans!


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Im testing the antec 620 on my cpu at the moment and is a good cooler for the price i was surprised and very quiet too even with the stock fan at full blast.. I can deal with that type of noise is decent..

Note, dont use the included double sided tape to hold the black plate (they just included that for easy installation), use regular tape to hold then when you mount the cooler take it off. If you plan on removing that later on it will be a pain in the ass to remove plus in my asus mobo there was solder points and some caps there... The Instructions sucks, use common sense thats what i did lol...

This is what i found so far, if you are using the radiator as a outake in the back of the case like antec recommendations, it is ok, but there is a trade off.... When your cpu is idle the fan is gonna slow down and this is gonna raise your case temps and other components temps, as the fan is not working at full blast.

I recommend using better pwn fans on the radiator, dont like a bit the auto settings on the cooler, stay away from connecting the fan on the cooler itself use your mobo headers, thats why some people dont see lower idle temps...

My mobo temps go way up to 52c when im idle, cpu stays around 22-23c in idle around with those mobo temps, when i fire up prime my mobo temp drops to 30-32 as the fan is working faster...

I order 2 Noctua NF-F12 fans and im going to connect this straight to the mother board...

Btw, still prefer high end air coolers, but this one fits for what i need and do a very decent job...

My results, prime 95 1hr running
2500k @ 4.5GHz/ 1.328v
Cpu temp 50-51c, Highest core temp 60-61

Regular run and games would be like 5 to 8c lower than what prime shows which is very good...

Avoid IBT unless you are testing an overclock, other than that the payload is not a real scenario..

Things to keep in mind, IBT/Prime they just stress testing your cpu, they don represent real case scenarios.. Dont get here and said ohhh im getting 70c on IBT watercooled, because you never gonna reach those temps on day to day use with any other program....


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> This is what i found so far, if you are using the radiator as a outake in the back of the case like antec recommendations, it is ok, but there is a trade off.... When your cpu is idle the fan is gonna slow down and this is gonna raise your case temps and other components temps, as the fan is not working at full blast.


I had to think about this for a bit. At first I was thinking that it shouldn't have too much effect since it's just cool air going in. But then if there's nothing exhausting the air out enough, then there's more warm air from all the components not getting out fast enough. So good point I think.







Quote:


> Dont get here and said ohhh im getting 70c on IBT watercooled, because you never gonna reach those temps on day to day use with any other program....


Unless they're folding anyways.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> You got me wrong Bud,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *First* of all look at your post, Its LONGER!! Mine only _looks_ longer because I gave some links to a small number of people who are having same issues. Actually Go Click those links and see what others have to say...
> 
> *Second* this is my Third yes *3rd* Kuhler that has failed on me. 3 units in a row that had same or similar problems, the first two had grinding noises and this one has a lower frequency rattling noise.
> 
> *Third*, I also know how they sound, very quite, and I also know how they look inside, I did a tear down on my friends one. They have a SLIGHT hum if you get within a few inches close, but that cant be heard once the case is closed.
> 
> Now, Please do me and yourself a favor, take a couple of minutes of your time, show some decency and try to pay attention to actually read what a guy writes before jumping and blaming him of OVERREACTING.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know how these units sound dude, I have tried all the methods I found on this thread and online. Nothing helped! The Sound is Similar when your glass windows start shaking when a Concord lands near your house or if you turn the bass up too high. They Grind and the noise can be heard two feet away over all my case fans!


Honestly, you mistook me on the long post thing. I didn't want to MAKE a long post by using the whole post you made + mine. Sorry, I worded that wrong. My bad. I want to be very rank with everyone. When I 1st push the power button on my computer, it makes a loud rattling noise similar to what you are hearing, it happens. After the pump gets caught back up it slowly dies down and will disappear over the sound of the fans. Very similar to my common use of a fish tank pump. When you unplug it, and the water in it goes to the lowest point in the system, then plug it back in, it's going to rattle and make noise until it catches back up.

Nextly, do you have THE PUMP hooked up to the motherboard header or the PSU. If connected to the motherboar, go into BIOS, find the Fan settings for that particular fan header, and set them to MANUAL 100% speed, then let it run for a little while. Also set the Power options in windows to Active cool on the CPU Options in Advanced power options.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> Honestly, you mistook me on the long post thing. I didn't want to MAKE a long post by using the whole post you made + mine. Sorry, I worded that wrong. My bad. I want to be very rank with everyone. When I 1st push the power button on my computer, it makes a loud rattling noise similar to what you are hearing, it happens. After the pump gets caught back up it slowly dies down and will disappear over the sound of the fans. Very similar to my common use of a fish tank pump. When you unplug it, and the water in it goes to the lowest point in the system, then plug it back in, it's going to rattle and make noise until it catches back up.
> 
> Nextly, do you have THE PUMP hooked up to the motherboard header or the PSU. If connected to the motherboar, go into BIOS, find the Fan settings for that particular fan header, and set them to MANUAL 100% speed, then let it run for a little while. Also set the Power options in windows to Active cool on the CPU Options in Advanced power options.


Alright, Understandable.








But the noise you are describing the 'swoosh' that stays for a few seconds or minutes, thats the normal noise of the air and water traveling through the pump. It barely last's 30 seconds and then the pump dies down with no noise at all. Thats no problem..all pumps do that, The noise I am describing comes after the pump dies down, it sounds similar to a electric shaver. "dhuuuuuurrrrrrrr dhik dhik dhurrrrrrrrrrrrr" or like when a older hdd is trying to access data. I tried everything I could, even left it running with the computer on for 12 hours overnight thinking it will auto fix itself, no recovery.

I have tried hooking it up to he motherboard CPU header(which is set to 100% in the BIOS), also have hoked it to the PSU using a molex to 3 pin connector. left it there for hours, with no sign of improvement. Its a bad pump, possibly the impaler shaft. This has happened to me many times. My friends one still works fine(bought from the same retailer)


----------



## Krusher33

Man you got some bad luck.


----------



## reaver83

You most have found some mad earthquake victim stock where your at. I hate that your having trouble, really. Short of tearing it apart, voiding your warrantee, and fixing it yourself, I really don't know how to help you. IDK, are you sure Antec didn't accidently send you the same one back? Beleive me, it happens, WD send my Bro-In-Law the same dead Elements 1.5TB HDD 4 times. at this point, I would be requesting that THEY pay for the shipping to RMA it.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Ya you guys are probably right, Its probably not Antecs fault but I think they have a batch of bad pumps circulating around. I actually did the exchange through my retailer and noted down the serial numbers, the first two units had the same faults, the 3rd unit I had to wait for 3 weeks for new shipment and it worked for a month or so before exhibiting the same issues.







maybe you guys are right, maybe I had a lot of bad luck, because my friend's 620 still works like a champ, checked on him today and its working just fine, no noises or issues. You know thats why I hate living here, these guys intentionally either sell you crap or overpriced crap from leaky houses to furniture to computer hardware, and to top it off *the dishonest ungrateful people* are one of the worst bunch next to OZ making life worse then living in what some people dare call a 3rd world country.Shesh,







that couldn't be far from the truth.

Next time I am doing more research before moving







http://emigratetonewzealand.wordpress.com/

saves a lot of money in the long run,








No more $1500 for a GTX680, cant wait to move


----------



## TheBirdman74

Got my 4th Replacement today guys! Guess what? It also has a crap rattling pump,









I honesty think its a defective batch, I mean 4 out of 4 replacements, faulty?

Its almost unbelievable, but I got a video too this time








http://www.overclock.net/t/1267255/another-faulty-antec-kuhler-pump-with-video


----------



## GanjaSMK

I've only had one and my 920 has never made that noise. The initial pump noise was much louder for maybe a minute and then completely subsided. I don't ever turn my PC on / off on a daily basis so I don't know if it would make that kind of a noise regularly. But it doesn't make that noise at all when running.

Not sure how you could have possibly gotten four 'bad' pumps in a row and though I realize it's absolutely possible, seems rather unlikely. Something else I would assume is the problem (take no offense).


----------



## FromUndaChz

I turn mine on and off every day and never hear anything when starting up - only did for roughly five seconds the first time I turned it on.. The pump spinning below 3,000 RPM at 12V - Or air in the system due to the radiator being mounted upside-down can be the cause of the issue. Mounting upside down is not recommended, I work with pumps for a living and I don't care if the directions imply that it's okay to do so - don't do it especially if you hear noise in the pump. Running a "cavitating" pump can also make it sound like that permanently if it goes on for a short while... no pump is built to run dry for any period of time, not even air bubbles.


----------



## nofarkoran

Urgent problem
I have-Antec Kühler H2O 920
on Motherboard GA-Z77X-d3h
And from some reason the- sound level- and the- fan speed-
did not work on Software
the -liquid temperature- and pump speed- work ok
Please help me


----------



## Bosniac

I just installed the 620 in my pc. Installed two NZXT fans for push/pull configuration, and my i5 2500k runs 32-35c in idle and 59c in Intel Burn Test (max setting). When I OC it to 4.4Ghz it idles 38-41c, and up to 68c in Intel Burn Test (max settings). Kind of dissapointed. My case is well vented (NZXT Phantom), with plenty of airflow. It's only better by 2-3c than my Hyper 212+.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bosniac*
> 
> I just installed the 620 in my pc. Installed two NZXT fans for push/pull configuration, and my i5 2500k runs 32-35c in idle and 59c in Intel Burn Test (max setting). When I OC it to 4.4Ghz it idles 38-41c, and up to 68c in Intel Burn Test (max settings). Kind of dissapointed. My case is well vented (NZXT Phantom), with plenty of airflow. It's only better by 2-3c than my Hyper 212+.


The 620 is more or less meant for "silent computing" at more or less stock clocks.. it's by no means a performance cooler, just like the Hyper 212+ is not, and the Corsair H50 is not. I suggest moving up an Antec 920 or a Corsair H80 and I think your temps and attitude on the coolers could probably be better - In fact, I promise.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bosniac*
> 
> I just installed the 620 in my pc. Installed two NZXT fans for push/pull configuration, and my i5 2500k runs 32-35c in idle and 59c in Intel Burn Test (max setting). When I OC it to 4.4Ghz it idles 38-41c, and up to 68c in Intel Burn Test (max settings). Kind of dissapointed. My case is well vented (NZXT Phantom), with plenty of airflow. It's only better by 2-3c than my Hyper 212+.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> The 620 is more or less meant for "silent computing" at more or less stock clocks.. it's by no means a performance cooler, just like the Hyper 212+ is not, and the Corsair H50 is not. I suggest moving up an Antec 920 or a Corsair H80 and I think your temps and attitude on the coolers could probably be better - In fact, I promise.










I think saw a pretty good drop going from a Hyper 212+ to my H60. I don't remember the numbers though. Fan is at 100%?


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bosniac*
> 
> I just installed the 620 in my pc. Installed two NZXT fans for push/pull configuration, and my i5 2500k runs 32-35c in idle and 59c in Intel Burn Test (max setting). *When I OC it to 4.4Ghz it idles 38-41c, and up to 68c in Intel Burn Test* (max settings). Kind of dissapointed. My case is well vented (NZXT Phantom), with plenty of airflow. It's only better by 2-3c than my Hyper 212+.


......


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think saw a pretty good drop going from a Hyper 212+ to my H60. I don't remember the numbers though. Fan is at 100%?


I understand, but what is your point and why are you scratching your head? The 620 is a decent cooler but stellar temps are not to be expected from a low end cooler designed for average users with average CPU clocks. Better temps can be found from an H80 or a Kuhler 920... Stellar temps under a heavy OC usually only happen with a well designed custom loop. A Hyper 212+ and a Kuhler 620 are just not all that different in terms of the heat they are able to dissipate, and results vary from user to user based on installation method and ambient temps, to some degree.


----------



## Krusher33

Yeah I didn't see his overclock. My bad. I was just saying I saw a pretty good drop at my overclock.

But it's not doing its job when I approached 4 ghz and so now I'm in the market for an actual water loop.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> The 620 is more or less meant for "silent computing" at more or less stock clocks.. it's by no means a performance cooler, just like the Hyper 212+ is not, and the Corsair H50 is not. I suggest moving up an Antec 920 or a Corsair H80 and I think your temps and attitude on the coolers could probably be better - In fact, I promise.


The H70,620, and 920 are Very much a Performance Cooler with the added benefit of Silence. The 620 Keeps my friends 930 OC to 4.2Ghz at 45C Idle and 68C load while playing games. In Prime it went as far as 78C - 82C tho. With Push Pull setup I would pick these things over any 1 ton air cooler that hogs a large amount of space. Unfortunately thats not the case since I have had consequently 4 back to back Kuhlers with Bad Pumps.







Other then that they are pretty sweet


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> The H70,620, and 920 are Very much a Performance Cooler with the added benefit of Silence. The 620 Keeps my friends 930 OC to 4.2Ghz at 45C Idle and 68C load while playing games. In Prime it went as far as 78C - 82C tho. With Push Pull setup I would pick these things over any 1 ton air cooler that hogs a large amount of space. Unfortunately thats not the case since I have had consequently 4 back to back Kuhlers with Bad Pumps.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other then that they are pretty sweet


The 620 and H70 are not "performance" when it comes to water loops. They are small, self contained, maintenance free, closed water loops that are meant for silent computing and cooler temps at stock speeds or lower overclocks. The H80, the 920, and H100 are performance water loops which are capable of keeping even the hottest, highest clocked chips cool under heavy load - within the limits of normal 24/7 overclocks and even slightly beyond. Granted I suppose "performance" is more personal opinion than anything, seeing as though none of these coolers are really labeled "performance CPU coolers" in the grand scheme of things. I suppose you can call it what you like, but the point I was trying to make stands - And this point is, if the Kuhler 620 is disappointing, then buy a better performing loop and that will change. Please don't try to educate me on the capabilities of either the 620, the 920, or the H80 which are only coolers I've mentioned because I own and have experience with all three units.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I did some good old testing today and i do a stable 73c on ibt with a custom load of almost 15gb of ram... No program out there can top that load or the heat... With no intake fans either... Only with a push configuration on the cooler out of the case...

Here is my research so far...
http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1267656

CPU is running 1.35v too pretty good cooler if you ask me...


----------



## Krunchy

Hey Birdman,

I've been reading about your issue, specifically, a rattle that appears to be located in the vicinity of the pump unit/CPU. You have changed out the Khuler four times, and yet the rattle still exists!

A few questions...

Q1: Have you had this rattle happen on different systems that use the Khuler, or have all four Khulers been installed only in one (the same) system?

Q2: Have you gone around inside the case while the pump is mounted and running, and tried pressing down on various components and areas around the pump to see if they have any affect on the rattling noise?

Q3: Have you tried re-mounting the (rattling) Khuler in a different case on a different mobo, to see if it rattles in that install?

I will assume for a minute that the answers to 1 and 3 above is No; that all have been installed in the same case and mobo, and not re-tried in a different host PC before returning the units.

While I have little doubt that you have been both diligent and thorough in your efforts to diagnose your 'rattle', I must say that your receiving a *fourth* bad unit in a row, is extremely unlikely and so far off the charts statistically-speaking that it really points to *some other problem* in your system.

I suggest the problem is not defective units(!) from Antec, but rather is a problem with your CPU, motherboard, or case.

Certainly, these pumps produce at least a little vibration. But the majority of Khuler owners - by far, (and myself included) - have complained little or none about the chronic rattle you have. What I hypothesize is that the pump vibration is rattling the CPU itself, or the CPU chip ZIF socket on the motherboard, or components adjacent to the CPU, such as the VRM modules, the chokes, or the caps. Or, it is vibrating the whole motherboard and perhaps the khuler back-plate is touching the motherboard tray and rattling there, OR one or more mobo standoffs are loose on the motherboard tray (check for these!). It's even possible that your mobo has some sort of internal de-lamination between board layers and that is amplifying the vibration from the pump.

Take a few steps back and re-assess the situation. Assume the Khuler isn't bad; rather that, there is something about how the Khuler, the CPU, the mobo, or a component on the mobo is mounted such that they are vibrating and/or rattling against something. While you may have been pressing on components and areas around the pump to try to isolate the noise, I'm convinced something is not right in that area and more pressure may be needed or something has been overlooked.

Four bad units in a row just _does not happen_, unless the units are being drop-kicked (every time!) by UPS, or by your landlord/wife/roommate, or _you_ are somehow (inadvertently) mishandling the unit each time you install it.

But I think it is not you or UPS at fault, I think it is a defective mobo or physical mounting issue (a badly mounted or defective CPU ZIF socket, or a bad choke, or a bad NB/SB heatpipe-heatsink-mounting-cooling fan-whatever). I urge you to look for something like that, extremely closely, before suspecting the (fourth!) cooler of being defective...meanwhile, you have my sympathy.









Regards,
-Krunchy

NB: One last idea - did you use the foam tape to mount the backplate? If not, that's another suspect - the backplate might be vibrating against the mobo).


----------



## Duff-Man

Hi Antec Kuhler 620/920 members

I was wondering is it easy/possible to change the tubing on a 920? Also, if the tubing can be changed, can the wiring for the fan controllers be extended to allow me to put my 920 into different parts of my case?

Thanks in advance


----------



## reaver83

anything is possible, however anything you do to it will void warrantee. Run it how it is for now.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> The 620 and H70 are not "performance" when it comes to water loops. They are small, self contained, maintenance free, closed water loops that are meant for silent computing and cooler temps at stock speeds or lower overclocks. The H80, the 920, and H100 are performance water loops which are capable of keeping even the hottest, highest clocked chips cool under heavy load - within the limits of normal 24/7 overclocks and even slightly beyond. Granted I suppose "performance" is more personal opinion than anything, seeing as though none of these coolers are really labeled "performance CPU coolers" in the grand scheme of things. I suppose you can call it what you like, but the point I was trying to make stands - And this point is, if the Kuhler 620 is disappointing, then buy a better performing loop and that will change. Please don't try to educate me on the capabilities of either the 620, the 920, or the H80 which are only coolers I've mentioned because I own and have experience with all three units.


You sir are a very arrogant man, and your arrogance clouds your judgement. However I am not surprised by your arrogance considering the part you are at. NO ONE was trying to educate you, I was simply stating my experience and mere facts; however after reading your post I insist you re educate yourself in this and a lot of "other" things.









*I also have Experience with all 3 units. 4 620's, 1x 920 and a H70. Does that make my opinion more valid then yours?*

Lets make one thing clear, Certainly these closed water loops such as the 620, 920, H70, H80, and even the H100 are NEVER going to be a true "performance" cooler, they wont be as good as say a custom water Loop, Heck I bet even a Rasa would bit the crap out of the H100.

That Being said, for what its worth, the 620 is in no way disappointing, its FAR from disappointing. If the Kuhler is disappointing then the True and Megahalems are also Disappointing. The Stock Intel Cooler is Disappointing, the Kuhler 620 is its FAR from disappointing.

Define Disappointing for us..
How do you find the 620 "disappointing"?

- It performs as good as "most" high end tower air cooler heat sinks.
- It doesn't cost a lot of money
- It doesn't take as much space or puts as much strain on the motherboard as a tower cooler
- Able to keep the CPU reasonably cool for most moderate oc's
(which serves the need of most overclockers, just look at this topic.)
- It has the added benefit of being quite if not near silent.

*This alone gives most of us air cooler users an option and reasons to move away to something like the 620/920 even if its a few Cs behind the best air cooler, the price and added benefits makes up for it. however if you want more "performance" you are welcome to get something bigger like the 920 or H100 or a true performance loop.
Dont expect miracles from the 620, but for what its worth its far from disappointing and very much gives pretty good performance,*

So what part of that is disappointing to you ?


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> You sir are a very arrogant man, and your arrogance clouds your judgement. However I am not surprised by your arrogance considering the part you are at. NO ONE was trying to educate you, I was simply stating my experience and mere facts; however after reading your post I insist you re educate yourself in this and a lot of "other" things.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *I also have Experience with all 3 units. 4 620's, 1x 920 and a H70. Does that make my opinion more valid then yours?*
> Lets make one thing clear, Certainly these closed water loops such as the 620, 920, H70, H80, and even the H100 are NEVER going to be a true "performance" cooler, they wont be as good as say a custom water Loop, Heck I bet even a Rasa would bit the crap out of the H100.
> That Being said, for what its worth, the 620 is in no way disappointing, its FAR from disappointing. If the Kuhler is disappointing then the True and Megahalems are also Disappointing. The Stock Intel Cooler is Disappointing, the Kuhler 620 is its FAR from disappointing.
> Define Disappointing for us..
> How do you find the 620 "disappointing"?
> - It performs as good as "most" high end tower air cooler heat sinks.
> - It doesn't cost a lot of money
> - It doesn't take as much space or puts as much strain on the motherboard as a tower cooler
> - Able to keep the CPU reasonably cool for most moderate oc's
> (which serves the need of most overclockers, just look at this topic.)
> - It has the added benefit of being quite if not near silent.
> *This alone gives most of us air cooler users an option and reasons to move away to something like the 620/920 even if its a few Cs behind the best air cooler, the price and added benefits makes up for it. however if you want more "performance" you are welcome to get something bigger like the 920 or H100 or a true performance loop.
> Dont expect miracles from the 620, but for what its worth its far from disappointing and very much gives pretty good performance,*
> 
> So what part of that is disappointing to you ?


I don't know why you are so defensive...









I also never said the H100, H80, or 920 were "true performance coolers" or that I found the Antec 620 to be "disappointing" so I don't know what you're talking about and going all *bold on me for?* Also, never said anything about expecting miracles from anything - and I think I stated a full custom loop was the only true "performance" liquid cooling option, assuming it's set up right.

Chill buddy, and thanks for the "education" I didn't need and for calling me arrogant - I love you too man.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krunchy*
> 
> Hey Birdman,
> I've been reading about your issue, specifically, a rattle that appears to be located in the vicinity of the pump unit/CPU. You have changed out the Khuler four times, and yet the rattle still exists!
> A few questions...


Hey Krunchy,

Thanks..I think I got a bad batch of Kuhlers. look...
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krunchy*
> 
> Q1: Have you had this rattle happen on different systems that use the Khuler, or have all four Khulers been installed only in one (the same) system?


Q1 Different Systems, then just on a PSU 3 pin to Molex Converter, Also Tried using a Fan controller.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krunchy*
> 
> Q2: Have you gone around inside the case while the pump is mounted and running, and tried pressing down on various components and areas around the pump to see if they have any affect on the rattling noise?


Q2. Yes I have, mainly pressed the pump, didn't help.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krunchy*
> 
> Q3: Have you tried re-mounting the (rattling) Khuler in a different case on a different mobo, to see if it rattles in that install?


Q3. Yes my friend and I tested everything we could think of.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krunchy*
> 
> Four bad units in a row just _does not happen_, unless the units are being drop-kicked (every time!) by UPS, or by your landlord/wife/roommate, or _you_ are somehow (inadvertently) mishandling the unit each time you install it.


Or maybe Antec Screwed a large number of shipments? Shipments that were drop kicked, damaged on their way to the cargo load to or their way to the retailer








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krunchy*
> 
> I suggest the problem is not defective units(!) from Antec, but rather is a problem with your CPU, motherboard, or case.
> Certainly, these pumps produce at least a little vibration. But the majority of Khuler owners - by far, (and myself included) - have complained little or none about the chronic rattle you have. What I hypothesize is that the pump vibration is rattling the CPU itself, or the CPU chip ZIF socket on the motherboard, or components adjacent to the CPU, such as the VRM modules, the chokes, or the caps. Or, it is vibrating the whole motherboard and perhaps the khuler back-plate is touching the motherboard tray and rattling there, OR one or more mobo standoffs are loose on the motherboard tray (check for these!). It's even possible that your mobo has some sort of internal de-lamination between board layers and that is amplifying the vibration from the pump.
> 
> Take a few steps back and re-assess the situation. Assume the Khuler isn't bad; rather that, there is something about how the Khuler, the CPU, the mobo, or a component on the mobo is mounted such that they are vibrating and/or rattling against something. While you may have been pressing on components and areas around the pump to try to isolate the noise, I'm convinced something is not right in that area and more pressure may be needed or something has been overlooked.
> 
> But I think it is not you or UPS at fault, I think it is a defective mobo or physical mounting issue (a badly mounted or defective CPU ZIF socket, or a bad choke, or a bad NB/SB heatpipe-heatsink-mounting-cooling fan-whatever). I urge you to look for something like that, extremely closely, before suspecting the (fourth!) cooler of being defective...meanwhile, you have my sympathy.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Regards,
> -Krunchy
> NB: One last idea - did you use the foam tape to mount the backplate? If not, that's another suspect - the backplate might be vibrating against the mobo).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krunchy*
> 
> I will assume for a minute that the answers to 1 and 3 above is No; that all have been installed in the same case and mobo, and not re-tried in a different host PC before returning the units.
> While I have little doubt that you have been both diligent and thorough in your efforts to diagnose your 'rattle', I must say that your receiving a *fourth* bad unit in a row, is extremely unlikely and so far off the charts statistically-speaking that it really points to *some other problem* in your system.


I assure you, nothing is wrong with my and my friends systems. The pump is nothing too fancy or complex, as long as it gets the volts it should run. My friend has a Kuhler and I have a H70, both ran on my system silent. its most likely a bad batch of pumps. As you can see it even rattels outside the case on its own. The noise If there was something wrong with my pc then my friends 620 and my h70 would display similar issues. they dont display similar issues. I find it hard to believe a bad CPU, Motherboard would have anything to do with a rattling pump.

If you go a few posts back someone actually opened a Kuhler and found the problem to be a impeller shaft which was not balanced.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duff-Man*
> 
> Hi Antec Kuhler 620/920 members
> 
> I was wondering is it easy/possible to change the tubing on a 920? Also, if the tubing can be changed, can the wiring for the fan controllers be extended to allow me to put my 920 into different parts of my case?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Nahh..I dont think so, you cant bud, the only way is to cut the tubes off and that voids your warranty, however I can see how you can extend the Kuhlers Power Cable, Just get a Male 3Pin to Female 3 Pin Extension, You can even make one if you can do good soldiering, I can


----------



## Dr Bill Mr Hyde

Greetings Fellow Overclockers, and Antec Kuhler fans. This is Mr. Hyde.









I'll be Brief. Even tho I dont spend a lot of time infront of computers working with them has become a new hobby of mine and I have done a few projects of my own, every now and then I have also lurked OCN. Reason I joined the site was actually give something back to the community, specially the Antec Kuhler Users.

I have seen a lot of you who for aesthetics or for what ever reason wish to modify the Antec Kuhlers with Clear Tubing and Reservoirs and vice versa.

Well Dr.Bill and I(Mostly Dr. Bill) wrote a small guide showing a neat little trick on *How to Take Apart / Disassemble / Remove the Antec Kuhler 620 and 920's Tubes Without Cutting the Tubes.* We actually did this tutorial back in Early January this year as part of another fun little project.









So for those of you who want it, here it is...

http://tomorrowsgaming.com/modding-workshop/4729.htm
*- How to disassemble the Antec Kuhler h20 620 and 920 without cutting the tubes*
Quote:


> Hello Everyone, The Antec Kuhler's are becoming pretty popular and I have seen many hobbyists modding the Antec and similar units made by Asetek, But the first thing they do is cut the tubes. Today for the first time ever, I am going to quickly show you a little secret trick of how to disassemble the Antec Kuhler h20 620 and 920 unit's radiator and the pump cold plate combo without cutting the tubes.


I will try to post the Complete Guide In OCN Later for your Convenence.

All The Best and Happy Modding and Overclocking









Cheers,
Mr. Hyde


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Sweet... thanks for sharing..


----------



## Dr Bill Mr Hyde

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Nahh..I dont think so, you cant bud, the only way is to cut the tubes off and that voids your warranty, however I can see how you can extend the Kuhlers Power Cable, Just get a Male 3Pin to Female 3 Pin Extension, You can even make one if you can do good soldiering, I can


Rest Assured, It can be done without having to cut the tubes. As for the Warranty I rather not speak on that.
There are alternatives to _everything_, my friend.







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Duff-Man*
> 
> Hi Antec Kuhler 620/920 members
> 
> I was wondering is it easy/possible to change the tubing on a 920? Also, if the tubing can be changed, can the wiring for the fan controllers be extended to allow me to put my 920 into different parts of my case?
> 
> Thanks in advance


Its *Very* Easy and Very Do Able on Both the 620 and 920.
Just Read my above post and follow the link to the guide, will post the entire guide on OCN later on as well.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> Sweet... thanks for sharing..


----------



## Rockhawksam

How do I fit the 620 in a cm storm scout? Which fan do I need to replace to out the antec one and radiator in? Am I supposed to install it on the clear side panel? The only other place would be the top fan but that's 135mm. I need Help! Thanks!


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rockhawksam*
> 
> How do I fit the 620 in a cm storm scout? Which fan do I need to replace to out the antec one and radiator in? Am I supposed to install it on the clear side panel? The only other place would be the top fan but that's 135mm. I need Help! Thanks!


you should be able to just install it anywhere there is a space for a 120mm fan, how about the rear fan? why dont you install the 620 with the stock one in push pull.?


----------



## gperete

anybody tried joining two pumps together? ie


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gperete*
> 
> anybody tried joining two pumps together? ie


never thought about it but it should work as long as both the pumps have the same specs. eg two 620 pumps. PNY made a GPU + CPU GTX580 cooler once


----------



## gperete

plus, change the rad to a thicker or bigger one?


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gperete*
> 
> plus, change the rad to a thicker or bigger one?


Sure, why not







two thick 120mm or one 240 should be alright with those pumps









+rep to you for trying out something different,








remember to post some pics when you are done


----------



## homestyle

is there any testing on noise and/or temps for mounting the rad with tubes on bottom vs top?

it would make sense that you would get lower noise and temps if tubes were mounted on the bottom because the air would get trapped in the top of the rad. if tubes were on the top, air bubles would circulate through the system.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *homestyle*
> 
> is there any testing on noise and/or temps for mounting the rad with tubes on bottom vs top?
> it would make sense that you would get lower noise and temps if tubes were mounted on the bottom because the air would get trapped in the top of the rad. if tubes were on the top, air bubles would circulate through the system.


doesn't matter, but most people go with both the rad and pump tubes mounted on bottom, looks better that way, although my friend has his 620's radiator mounted on the top of his case.


----------



## jam71

According to you, putting tubes from 3/8 and then increasing the liquid in the circuit you will have more 'performance or the pump works best with thin tubes?


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> According to you, putting tubes from 3/8 and then increasing the liquid in the circuit you will have more 'performance or the pump works best with thin tubes?


What I did say was that it is possible to hook up two pumps and rads to work togather like a CPU + GPU loop, similar to the liquid cooler pny gtx580.










I dont know much, just considered doing something with my kuhler a while back, but scraped the idea since I dont have the funds and tools and all. From what I know you wont gain any more performance replacing the tubes, (the correct size however is 1/4 or at least that what I was told by many others) You are better off using 2 good fans in a push pull setup.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dr Bill Mr Hyde*
> 
> Greetings Fellow Overclockers, and Antec Kuhler fans. This is Mr. Hyde.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll be Brief. Even tho I dont spend a lot of time infront of computers working with them has become a new hobby of mine and I have done a few projects of my own, every now and then I have also lurked OCN. Reason I joined the site was actually give something back to the community, specially the Antec Kuhler Users.
> I have seen a lot of you who for aesthetics or for what ever reason wish to modify the Antec Kuhlers with Clear Tubing and Reservoirs and vice versa.
> Well Dr.Bill and I(Mostly Dr. Bill) wrote a small guide showing a neat little trick on *How to Take Apart / Disassemble / Remove the Antec Kuhler 620 and 920's Tubes Without Cutting the Tubes.* We actually did this tutorial back in Early January this year as part of another fun little project.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So for those of you who want it, here it is...
> http://tomorrowsgaming.com/modding-workshop/4729.htm
> *- How to disassemble the Antec Kuhler h20 620 and 920 without cutting the tubes*
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Hello Everyone, The Antec Kuhler's are becoming pretty popular and I have seen many hobbyists modding the Antec and similar units made by Asetek, But the first thing they do is cut the tubes. Today for the first time ever, I am going to quickly show you a little secret trick of how to disassemble the Antec Kuhler h20 620 and 920 unit's radiator and the pump cold plate combo without cutting the tubes.
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to post the Complete Guide In OCN Later for your Convenence.
> All The Best and Happy Modding and Overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
> Mr. Hyde
Click to expand...

Wow!!







Thanks Bud!! Nice guide..thanks a million my man, I guess I was wrong. Now I can mod my friends Antec Kuhler









+Reps


----------



## dislikeyou

So i did RMA on my Antec 920 and i got a new but it is also making a fish tank noise. First few days it sounded like it will not make noise but now it does it. I don't want to RMA again so i will just live with it. I don't hear the noise when i play a game or listen to music with headphones. This is really annoying tho.

Probably my next PC will have air cooler instead so i don't end up with noisy water cooler.


----------



## Krusher33

Can you again tell us how everything is set up? Where it's all at in the case? Plus how is the pump connected?


----------



## dislikeyou

Well. It is mounted like this:



And this is how my case looks like:



So the radiator is mounted where the rear fan is.

When i built the PC i laid it down on the floor. Ran it for 30 sec and put it straight again.

The pump is connected to the motherboard CPU fan header. And the 2 Antec fans are connected to the pump.

This is what Antec software shows:


----------



## Krusher33

How the heck does it determine the db level? lol

Anyhow... the humming is louder than the fans?


----------



## dislikeyou

I dunno how it detects db. Its maybe something built in into the pump.
I'm not sure if the pump is louder than the fans. I cant determine well.

I made a recording of the noise:


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Detects db by power apply it, rough estimate in better terms...


----------



## homestyle

has anybody tested mounting this block a little bit off center for ivy bridge?

If you look at the cpu block orientation, it doesn't line up with the barbs. most of us mount the block with the tubes coming out of the block either straight down, up or on the sides.



But the actual cold plate makes the best contact with ivy bridge (the chip is thin and long) when the tubes are a bit off-center.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> So i did RMA on my Antec 920 and i got a new but it is also making a fish tank noise. First few days it sounded like it will not make noise but now it does it. I don't want to RMA again so i will just live with it. I don't hear the noise when i play a game or listen to music with headphones. This is really annoying tho.
> Probably my next PC will have air cooler instead so i don't end up with noisy water cooler.


Have you tried the trick whit putting a magnet on the pump?


----------



## dislikeyou

I did on the first pump. On this one i haven't. I'm not sure if the magnet trick can harm the pump.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> Well. It is mounted like this:
> 
> And this is how my case looks like:
> 
> So the radiator is mounted where the rear fan is.
> When i built the PC i laid it down on the floor. Ran it for 30 sec and put it straight again.
> The pump is connected to the motherboard CPU fan header. And the 2 Antec fans are connected to the pump.
> This is what Antec software shows:


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Have you tried the trick whit putting a magnet on the pump?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> I did on the first pump. On this one i haven't. I'm not sure if the magnet trick can harm the pump.


*
Antec is Shipping BAD PUMPS man or there is a whole batch of Bad Pumps.
Check this out, happened to me 4 times! Geta refund bud*
http://www.overclock.net/t/1267255/another-faulty-antec-kuhler-pump-with-video


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> When i built the PC i laid it down on the floor. Ran it for 30 sec and put it straight again.
> 
> The pump is connected to the motherboard CPU fan header. And the 2 Antec fans are connected to the pump.
> 
> This is what Antec software shows:


This picture is fine if the "Custom" "Fan Control" has not been set. It comes from Antec defaulted to run:

Fan Ramp Sart Temp: 40C

Full Fan Speed Temp: 50C

If you don't modify that for custom, the fans will not come on.

you are getting a little fluctuation in your pump speed, try plugging the Pump plug into a Power Fan header on your motherboard, (ignore the no CPU fan warnings)


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> So many hysterics all over this thread, cracks me up..


lol..







can't you see this entire forum is filled with people with antec khuler problems, I myself had 4 bad khulers.and yet we are the ones suffering from mass hysteria?









tin foil hat. check


----------



## Diogenes5

Just had the dreaded rattling sound happen to me. I made my system for quiet operation so the sound is really rather infuriating. The Kuhler is attached to my 3d Card so it's a pain in the butt to have it removed. I put in a request for an advanced RMA with Antec. Hopefully it goes through relatively quickly. The Fry's by my house ran out of Kuhler 620's and the nearest microcenter is about 40 minutes away. I hope to god that this is not as common a problem as it appears in this thread.


----------



## Diogenes5

Further Update: I attached the power supply to my Rheobus Extreme. The Sound did not go away. I left it at max because that minimized sound. My kuhler 620 finally gave up the ghost today. Computer refused to boot up. Antec support requested a copy of my invoice/receipt, which I gave up when I mailed in my fry's rebate. Hopefully, I have a copy somewhere.

Not too happy, many places only require the serial number and their internal systems will be able to tell where you bought it.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Diogenes5*
> 
> Further Update: I attached the power supply to my Rheobus Extreme. The Sound did not go away. I left it at max because that minimized sound. My kuhler 620 finally gave up the ghost today. Computer refused to boot up. Antec support requested a copy of my invoice/receipt, which I gave up when I mailed in my fry's rebate. Hopefully, I have a copy somewhere.
> Not too happy, many places only require the serial number and their internal systems will be able to tell where you bought it.


http://www.overclock.net/t/1267255/another-faulty-antec-kuhler-pump-with-video
Please just get a refund, 4 times, that's how many times this has happened to me.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> *
> Antec is Shipping BAD PUMPS man or there is a whole batch of Bad Pumps.
> Check this out, happened to me 4 times! Geta refund bud*


----------



## reaver83

Wow, I guess I got lucky and got mine while the quality was still good. I'm yet to have any trouble with my 1st one. Bought it in May of 2011, no problems to date, even wiping my computer and installing windows with it still in!


----------



## ruarcs30

0 problem here as well. Bought in september 2011


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Wow, I guess I got lucky and got mine while the quality was still good. I'm yet to have any trouble with my 1st one. Bought it in May of 2011, no problems to date, even wiping my computer and installing windows with it still in!


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> 0 problem here as well. Bought in september 2011


Yes you, and my friend, both.
my friend also got one around June of 2011, still works like it was new, no noises.

quality _was_ still good


----------



## ruarcs30

You know, the 620 actually gives almost, not the same but almost, the same performance as the 920. The biggest diffrence is the sound volume, not the performance. This is whit push pull on the 620. The 620 reaches faster to max temp, and got about 5 degrees over the 920, but it is amasingly equel in performance. If it works anyway







But the sound volume isnt very nice if you go over 25 in ambient temps, then it get warm up to where the sound starts kicking in. Just my opinion, tried bouth


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Wow, I guess I got lucky and got mine while the quality was still good. I'm yet to have any trouble with my 1st one. Bought it in May of 2011, no problems to date, even wiping my computer and installing windows with it still in!


I've got a 620 bought before June 2011 and a 920 on sale around Nov. 2011 (but not sure how long they were on the shelf at Canada Computers).
It's too bad others are having such a bad experience with them - I've had no problems whatsoever.


----------



## Diogenes5

Mine was still in the return date for my store so I exchanged it for another unit. I am scared of the random gurgling sounds that happen every now and then in my computer as they were the precursor to my kuhler dying before. My hoses were stretched a little on my old unit in order to reach the front fan on my Corsair 500r. I took the old rear fan of the 500r, took a hammer to its fan hinges and crafted myself a makeshift shroud. Using 6-32x3-inch screws from Ace Hardware, I connected it in front of my Push fan (Corsair SP High Performance 120mm). There is also a Gentle Typhoon Ap-15 on pull. Idle temps are down about 2-3 degrees Celsius and my hoses no longer feel stretched (and the gurgling sounds are not as common as they were before). Maybe I was somewhat at fault for my old unit dying; hopefully this new unit holds up.


----------



## She loved E

got mine hooked up and have minor gurgling/clicking (louder than the fans but not by much). seems like a lottery so i'm going to keep it to avoid teardown & rma hassle. ah well whaddaya expect for $30.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *She loved E*
> 
> got mine hooked up and have minor gurgling/clicking (louder than the fans but not by much). seems like a lottery so i'm going to keep it to avoid teardown & rma hassle. ah well whaddaya expect for $30.


I expect QUALITY Clouseau! I Expect QUALITY!!!








no I think you got lucky, its okay if it gurgles the first few mins / hrs, just shake the radiator and it goes away. they used to make these very well, my friend has one(bought last year) very quite, no pump or fan noise, does the job and works great. I bought one and had to RMA it 4 times, link in my signature explains it all.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> I expect QUALITY Clouseau! I Expect QUALITY!!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> no I think you got lucky, its okay if it gurgles the first few mins / hrs, just shake the radiator and it goes away. they used to make these very well, my friend has one(bought last year) very quite, no pump or fan noise, does the job and works great. I bought one and had to RMA it 4 times, link in my signature explains it all.


So you got an obviously awful retailer whose employees probably drop-kicked your packages, or an awful mail courier who did the same, or the worst luck in the history of closed water loops because I know Antec QC isn't THAT bad based on the small number of issues with these pumps - I can find just as many issues with any other brand of closed water loop which actually moves off of shelves (Corsair units, for example)

I do think you're completely entitled to your opinions about Antec at this point, especially after all of your troubles - I just also think it seems like you've been on a bit of a crusade to rid the world of Antec water loops just because you managed to have an awful experience which I doubt was the fault of Antec seeing as though not one unit you received where you able to get functioning correctly. I honestly do not believe that you where doing everything right as far as hooking the unit up and supplying the proper voltage to the pump if FOUR different units where bad. Again, I'm not saying it didn't happen, but I think it's petty to have a link in your sig denouncing an impressive product when you're about the only one to ever receive a bad pump, and then get three more bad ones in succession following that. Any decent retailer SHOULD have at lease offered to test the third unit after the second RMA, IMO.

Again, you're entitled to your opinion, to post whatever you want on here, and to put links to your threads in your sig, I understand that - and keep doing it if it makes you happy. I just think it's a bit petty and misleading as these aren't bad units and problems with faulty pumps on this thread have USUALLY been the fault of the user and where easily fixed with some quick troubleshooting - which I know you tried but I'm still really not convinced especially since both of my Antec units which where purchased almost one year apart are both operating exceptionally well with almost 24/7 run time. The only noise I've ever heard was for MAYBE ten seconds after installing a fresh new Kuhler while it worked the air bubbles out of the pump.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FromUndaChz*
> 
> So you got an obviously awful retailer whose employees probably drop-kicked your packages, or an awful mail courier who did the same, or the worst luck in the history of closed water loops because I know Antec QC isn't THAT bad based on the small number of issues with these pumps - I can find just as many issues with any other brand of closed water loop which actually moves off of shelves (Corsair units, for example)
> I do think you're completely entitled to your opinions about Antec at this point, especially after all of your troubles - I just also think it seems like you've been on a bit of a crusade to rid the world of Antec water loops just because you managed to have an awful experience which I doubt was the fault of Antec seeing as though not one unit you received where you able to get functioning correctly. I honestly do not believe that you where doing everything right as far as hooking the unit up and supplying the proper voltage to the pump if FOUR different units where bad. Again, I'm not saying it didn't happen, but I think it's petty to have a link in your sig denouncing an impressive product when you're about the only one to ever receive a bad pump, and then get three more bad ones in succession following that. Any decent retailer SHOULD have at lease offered to test the third unit after the second RMA, IMO.
> Again, you're entitled to your opinion, to post whatever you want on here, and to put links to your threads in your sig, I understand that - and keep doing it if it makes you happy. I just think it's a bit petty and misleading as these aren't bad units and problems with faulty pumps on this thread have USUALLY been the fault of the user and where easily fixed with some quick troubleshooting - which I know you tried but I'm still really not convinced especially since both of my Antec units which where purchased almost one year apart are both operating exceptionally well with almost 24/7 run time. The only noise I've ever heard was for MAYBE ten seconds after installing a fresh new Kuhler while it worked the air bubbles out of the pump.


Its not the retailer, its Antec.
Its not just me bud, check this thread, my posts and the links I provided, then check this entire WC forum, a lot of people are having the exact same issue. Whatever it is multiple people with the same problem = not a retailer issue but a quality control issue on Antec/Asetek's part, and dont forget, Antec sells these pumps while Asetek makes them. I have tried everything, its not air bubbles, its an unbalanced shaft making the grind.

There is a BAD BATCH circling around. *or all mail couriers around the world has taken a hate towards the Kuhler and targeting and kicking Kuhler Boxes.*


----------



## framberries

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rakhasa*
> 
> Anyone with a HAF X + 920 or 930 or 950 @ 1.3vcore?? I wanna know the temps with this sort of setup! Thanks


I have a HAF 932. I replaced the 140mm fan for back exhaust as 2 120mm push/pull setup cougar fans with the radiator sandwiched. The only other fan I replaced was the top 230mm, with 2 X 120mm cougar fans also.

Currently i'm looking at a remote desktop view so I've no clue what the ambient temperature is, but my idle is around 30-33c and full load is at 80c tops. The top load average is actually closer to 77c. And I should mention that i've overclocked my 3770k to 4.6GHz at 1.28vcore. I'm pretty impressed honestly. The case has some good airflow, and the kuhler 620 is awesome at cooling it down. I've yet to try to play with some voltages to lower temps but i'll never hit 80 or even 77c with the stuff i'll be doing so i'm not worried about it.


----------



## framberries

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Its not the retailer, its Antec.
> Its not just me bud, check this thread, my posts and the links I provided, then check this entire WC forum, a lot of people are having the exact same issue. Whatever it is multiple people with the same problem = not a retailer issue but a quality control issue on Antec/Asetek's part, and dont forget, Antec sells these pumps while Asetek makes them. I have tried everything, its not air bubbles, its an unbalanced shaft making the grind.
> There is a BAD BATCH circling around. *or all mail couriers around the world has taken a hate towards the Kuhler and targeting and kicking Kuhler Boxes.*


I have to say i'm against the grind then, i bought mine about 2-3 weeks ago and mines been working beautifully. My temps are in pretty good control, and it does the job. I like this cooler and i'm keeping it until I do my DIY watercooling setup. I've had no issues thus far but will report if anything comes up. Will reiterate what others complained about which is instructions, they still suck. And in the process of trying to install the backplate, it was awkward positioning and EXTREMELY tight. Half the time I felt like I was going to snap my mobo... After that minor frustration I had thermal paste all over the cpu which I had to clean cause it wouldn't want to stay on top of the cpu when installing. Not as bad of a frustration as a lot others though.


----------



## dislikeyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> Its not the retailer, its Antec.
> Its not just me bud, check this thread, my posts and the links I provided, then check this entire WC forum, a lot of people are having the exact same issue. Whatever it is multiple people with the same problem = not a retailer issue but a quality control issue on Antec/Asetek's part, and dont forget, Antec sells these pumps while Asetek makes them. I have tried everything, its not air bubbles, its an unbalanced shaft making the grind.
> There is a BAD BATCH circling around. *or all mail couriers around the world has taken a hate towards the Kuhler and targeting and kicking Kuhler Boxes.*


You are right, it's the shaft and not air bubbles. It is logical since putting a magnet on it will make the sound go away or became less noisy. A magnet does not make air bubbles go away








I have been reading about people with Corsair coolers that got 2--3 faulty coolers in row. Could be a bad batch.

I wanted to take my whole PC to the store and let them mount a new cooler but i would have to pay a lot so i just sent the cooler to them. It's better if they can mount it on the PC and see if the new cooler is faulty and then replace until they find one that is ok. Now i got another noisy cooler and i don't gonna do RMA again. Maybe i would get another noisy cooler and i would feel ashamed to call the store for the 3rd time to ask for replacement. Atleast i don't hear the noise when my TV is on and when i play games / listen to music with headphones. I will go with AIR cooler next time.


----------



## reaver83

I did notice a rather small clicking noise in mine the other day, but the performace of it has not been effected, and once the fans kicked in when I logged into windows I couldn't hear it anymore. I don't intend on using the pump too much longer anyways. Once I get a job I'll be installing a loop.


----------



## Remontoire

I was really looking forward to trying a water cooler, I was originally going to get the Corsair H60 but then I saw all the 'rattle noise' problems.

So I figured I'd go with Antec, but the same problem here also... How depressing. I could not bear to have a annoying problem like the 'rattle'. And I'm nowhere near hardcore enough to go 'custom H20'.

Guess I have to go with a GARGANTUAN Hellraiser type of thing squatting on my mobo like a angry god.


----------



## Krusher33

It has been determined the Rattle problem with theirs is from too much voltage on some power supplies. In fact I think a rep is aware of it here on OCN and has said they're looking into it. For now, just put it on a fan controller to make sure it's getting the right amount.


----------



## FromUndaChz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> It has been determined the Rattle problem with theirs is from too much voltage on some power supplies. In fact I think a rep is aware of it here on OCN and has said they're looking into it. For now, just put it on a fan controller to make sure it's getting the right amount.


I try to tell people this, but they don't listen or just don't know how to use a multimeter I guess


----------



## K62-RIG

I must be lucky as I have both xigmatek fans and the pump running of 12v molex and I am yet to hear the rattle.









Brilliant cooler.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> It has been determined the Rattle problem with theirs is from too much voltage on some power supplies. In fact I think a rep is aware of it here on OCN and has said they're looking into it. For now, just put it on a fan controller to make sure it's getting the right amount.


*Nope, Thats a Blatant LIE!! LIE! I have tried 3 different PSU's, Two Different Computers, And 3 different fan Controllers. Its a Bad Pump.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> You are right, it's the shaft and not air bubbles. It is logical since putting a magnet on it will make the sound go away or became less noisy. A magnet does not make air bubbles go away
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have been reading about people with Corsair coolers that got 2--3 faulty coolers in row. Could be a bad batch.
> I wanted to take my whole PC to the store and let them mount a new cooler but i would have to pay a lot so i just sent the cooler to them. It's better if they can mount it on the PC and see if the new cooler is faulty and then replace until they find one that is ok. Now i got another noisy cooler and i don't gonna do RMA again. Maybe i would get another noisy cooler and i would feel ashamed to call the store for the 3rd time to ask for replacement. Atleast i don't hear the noise when my TV is on and when i play games / listen to music with headphones. I will go with AIR cooler next time.


Well according to some people here magnets make air bubbles go away. I know they are faulty because my friends one bought last year makes no such noise, even one of them I had for 2 months worked fine and then one day started making the noise.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> I did notice a rather small clicking noise in mine the other day, but the performace of it has not been effected, and once the fans kicked in when I logged into windows I couldn't hear it anymore. I don't intend on using the pump too much longer anyways. Once I get a job I'll be installing a loop.


a small clicking noise once in a while is normal IMO. the pump also makes a small whine which is audible if you are a few inches close, that is also audible.


----------



## Dinwoodie

Hey everyone!

I just purchased the 920 and love it so far. Overclocked my pc to 4.5ghz and still had my cpu under 50 degrees! Anyway i got to thinking about the customizable LED light that Antec put on the pump housing and i was thinking it would be good if there was software available that changed the color of the LED acording to what temperature the cpu was at.

I guess it would start off green and progressively change through the yellows

Din


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> *Nope, Thats a Blatant LIE!! LIE! I have tried 3 different PSU's, Two Different Computers, And 3 different fan Controllers. Its a Bad Pump.*


I was talking about Corsair.


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> and i would feel ashamed to call the store for the 3rd time to ask for replacement..


You need to get better confidence in yourself I think, whithout knowing you. Seriously, you feel ashamed becasue they can not make a product that work or sell a product that work? Just make sure it is not air eatch time, then they are the one that should be ashamed?

Rma .


----------



## Remontoire

I notice that corsair have acknowledged the issue and have re-created the problem in the lab and are working to fix the problem which happens on about maybe 2% of units.

I cant find an antec forum, What % of units are faulty, have they acknowledged the issue? I would prefer thte 620 over the corH60 because of the LED. And it looks nicer than the h60. Not that I'm shallow or anything.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> You need to get better confidence in yourself I think, whithout knowing you. Seriously, you feel ashamed becasue they can not make a product that work or sell a product that work? Just make sure it is not air eatch time, then they are the one that should be ashamed?
> Rma .


This, and get a refund.


----------



## dislikeyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remontoire*
> 
> I notice that corsair have acknowledged the issue and have re-created the problem in the lab and are working to fix the problem which happens on about maybe 2% of units.
> I cant find an antec forum, What % of units are faulty, have they acknowledged the issue? I would prefer thte 620 over the corH60 because of the LED. And it looks nicer than the h60. Not that I'm shallow or anything.


Here: http://forums.hexus.net/antec-care-hexus/


----------



## Remontoire

Thanks.

I will probably take the 1/100 odds that I get a 'rattler' and go for the 620.

Can a poll be edited into this post for people who have the problem vs people who have not?


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Remontoire*
> 
> Thanks.
> I will probably take the 1/100 odds that I get a 'rattler' and go for the 620.
> Can a poll be edited into this post for people who have the problem vs people who have not?


Oh please, Take the chance, go for the 620.









Bam! Another Bad Kuhler - http://www.overclock.net/t/1267255/another-faulty-antec-kuhler-pump-with-video/20#post_17500724

see my sig


----------



## zGunBLADEz

I bought 2 (cpu/gpu) and both are whisper quiet dont even the woosh sound... Hope it dont get like that later on lol...


----------



## ruarcs30

Mine has run 2500+ hours


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dinwoodie*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> I just purchased the 920 and love it so far. Overclocked my pc to 4.5ghz and still had my cpu under 50 degrees! Anyway i got to thinking about the customizable LED light that Antec put on the pump housing and i was thinking it would be good if there was software available that changed the color of the LED acording to what temperature the cpu was at.
> I guess it would start off green and progressively change through the yellows
> Din


That was a question?

Besides a question like that is more appropriate for the modding forum.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dinwoodie*
> 
> Hey everyone!
> I just purchased the 920 and love it so far. Overclocked my pc to 4.5ghz and still had my cpu under 50 degrees! Anyway i got to thinking about the customizable LED light that Antec put on the pump housing and i was thinking it would be good if there was software available that changed the color of the LED acording to what temperature the cpu was at.
> I guess it would start off green and progressively change through the yellows
> Din


AS for the Question..Antec has already provided you with a color changing software, if you want it to change colors automatically then ask in some coding or modding forum, you probably need a automated script just like windows 7's wallpaper changes after x min of time, so like that you need a script that can change the color codes in the Antec software after x amount of Celsius has been reached.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Honestly, I'm done reading all the posts on this thread. On to better things. You guys fight it out. The facts are, I've posted ways to help, other have as well. If you can't take other peoples word for it, keep complaining to Antec and quit venting on this post. All your doing is working on post count at this point. spammy spam spam, I'm out!


I think you misunderstood, I out of all people have tried all the solutions you have posted and then some more, 4 Antec Kuhlers thats how many. This IS a genuine problem, many people on OCN are having it on a almost daily basis. So Slow down there, no body is fighting you, you are just acting out like some random referee wanabe dude to a non existant issue.

This is a genuine issue and people need to know it, You want to bury your head in the sand or inside your civic then be my guest.

But you cant just dismiss this by saying its all spam, This is a Discussion topic and we are raising valid concerns a lot of people are having not just on OCN but all over the internet including the Antec Forum at Hexus.

The Problem is more of a quality control issue then anything, I opened one up, it was a impeller shaft which was not balanced and a rubber had worn off also.


----------



## Penryn

OK, thread getting out of control. Keep it clean and on topic please.


----------



## dislikeyou

Hmm... I went to Antec Support Forums and wrote that i bought a Antec 920 that made the fish tank noise and then i got a replacement but that one also does the noise. They removed my post and now i cant even access my account.
Quote:


> Dislikeyou, you do not have permission to access this page. This could be due to one of several reasons:
> 
> Your user account may not have sufficient privileges to access this page. Are you trying to edit someone else's post, access administrative features or some other privileged system?
> If you are trying to post, the administrator may have disabled your account, or it may be awaiting activation.


I don't know what i did wrong. I don't think i broke any rules.


----------



## Krusher33

Did you remember to check your email for a confirmation link to click?


----------



## dislikeyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Did you remember to check your email for a confirmation link to click?


Yes i clicked it. I tried again and it wrote:
Quote:


> Your account has already been activated so please try logging in.


----------



## HowHardCanItBe

If you get a permission error most likely your thread has been removed there..Can you access other side of the forum? Have you tried posting a new thread?


----------



## dislikeyou

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5entinel*
> 
> If you get a permission error most likely your thread has been removed there..Can you access other side of the forum? Have you tried posting a new thread?


I posted again but i got a message that my post will be shown if / when administrator approves it. Odd.


----------



## Axon14

Go my 620 in an itx rig, and it's fantastic.


----------



## Penryn

Again, let's keep this thread on topic and actually post items that contribute and not detract from the club. Last warning.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> I posted again but i got a message that my post will be shown if / when administrator approves it. Odd.


I don't suppose there's a way to pm the admin is there? That does seem pretty odd.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Axon14*
> 
> Go my 620 in an itx rig, and it's fantastic.


Is the case ITX too? I'd love to see a pic of it. I kinda wanna do something like that for an HTPC build.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dislikeyou*
> 
> I posted again but i got a message that my post will be shown if / when administrator approves it. Odd.


They most likely blocked your message and placed you on a moderated roll where they would post your message if they deem it fit. if you see the forum there seems to be a few others with issues similar to ours. After 4 bad Kuhlers I have returned the Kuhlers and its been nearly two weeks since my RMA was received and I am yet to receive a refund. So far their products and support for valued customers like you and myself has been terrible, for example delaying my refund and not letting you post your message. This has left me nearly $300 out of pocket. and if Antec doesn't pay me up I've decided to take this matter to court.

You can read more about me and another persons ordeal here - http://www.overclock.net/t/1269059/khuler-chronicles-antec-920-leak-update-6/80#post_17516746

Long story short in a way they are trying to shut you off or suppress you, at this point you should drop them an Email and then Call them up, that would give you some official feedback on the issue.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Penryn*
> 
> Again, let's keep this thread on topic and actually post items that contribute and not detract from the club. Last warning.


This is the Antec Kuhler Club and we are discussing issues with this product, the lack of support from Antec and possible remedies. Discussing our experience with the Antec Kuhler is contributing. We are not here to sing praises of Antec, So from where I see it, the thread is on topic.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I don't suppose there's a way to pm the admin is there? That does seem pretty odd.


Why not just drop them an email linking to this issue and our posts?

**keeps an copy of this post for future reference in case it mysteriously disappears like the Antec Forum


----------



## dislikeyou

My post has been approved now. Also it seems that the cooler is making different noise during day. Sometimes it is louder, sometimes it is more quiet. I'm, not so sure since i cant determine well.


----------



## Krusher33

Cool. Keep us updated please. I'm sure we're all anxious to know.


----------



## clownboy

So I am thinking of changing out the radiator of my 920 for a Alphacool monsta 120, maybe even a monsta 240. The 120 will offer over double the cooling surface. The RAD has a fill port so the way I see it, I can cut the tubes on the rad side only, and install them in the new rad with the appropriate barbs, them fill the cooler via the fill port, shake as needed to bleed it and presto, I should be good,,,,, should be good!









from what I can put thogether the mosta 120 has nearly 40% more surface area than the h100. It seems to me that for less money I should end up with a better colling solution than swapping for a h100. my biggest concern would be pump pressure. the alphacools seem to be low pressure rads, probably lower than the rad that come swith the 920. I'm wondering if the extra colling space will pose a problem. this is one of the reason I am thinking of trying the monsta 120 in stead of the monsta 240

Anyone try this? Ataching the pump to a larger rad witout the use of a reservoir and using a rad with a fill port? if the res has a fill port, I shouldn't really need a res. right.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks


----------



## particleman

I just picked up my Antec Kuhler 620 yesterday. I am running it with a 2 fan push-pull configuration on a 3770K and I am pretty happy with the performance, it is a good 10 degrees cooler under load than the Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro I was using prior.

I am a bit uncertain if I mounted the cpu block properly though. I got one of the newer ones with the socket 2011 mounting kit. The hybrid thumbscrews turn indefinitely when using a screw driver. I didn't tighten the screws that hard, so I don't think I stripped the screws. Are these new hybrid thumbscrews some kind of smart screw that prevents over-tightening?


----------



## Molybdenum

Can the Kuhler 620 be lapped without voiding the warranty? Mine has a little 'spike' in the middle and made a mark on the top of my 2500k. Fairly upset about it...








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *particleman*
> 
> I just picked up my Antec Kuhler 620 yesterday. I am running it with a 2 fan push-pull configuration on a 3770K and I am pretty happy with the performance, it is a good 10 degrees cooler under load than the Arctic Cooling Freezer 13 Pro I was using prior.
> 
> I am a bit uncertain if I mounted the cpu block properly though. I got one of the newer ones with the socket 2011 mounting kit. The hybrid thumbscrews turn indefinitely when using a screw driver. I didn't tighten the screws that hard, so I don't think I stripped the screws. Are these new hybrid thumbscrews some kind of smart screw that prevents over-tightening?


This is how mine is, I'm pretty sure it can't be tightened indefinitely. The small silver screw receivers are shaped so that they cannot spin. DId you put those in correctly?


----------



## particleman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> Can the Kuhler 620 be lapped without voiding the warranty? Mine has a little 'spike' in the middle and made a mark on the top of my 2500k. Fairly upset about it...


According to a Antec support rep who replied in a Hexus.net thread, you can lap it as long it does not cause any warranty claims that can be connected to the lapping.
http://forums.hexus.net/antec-care-hexus/233569-kuhler-620-bad-surface-cpu-block.html

As for my issue with the screws turning indefinitely, I am certain the silver recievers are correctly in the base. My mounting mechanism looks like the mounting mechanism included in this PNY watercooling kit.
http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/microatx-gaming-overclocked,3039-2.html

The hybrid thumb screws no not look like they are a singular piece of steel. It looks like there are several mechanical parts; there is a silver piece of metal around the philips screw, which almost looks like a spring or washer. I turned the philips screws for quite a while and they just kept turning. I don't think I would have stripped all 4 screws, especially since I didn't have to turn it that hard. My theory is they changed the screws to some sort of smart screw that prevents over-tightening after they had all those complaints of cracking the plastic on the mounts with the old mounting mechanism. I mean why would they screws consist of several mechanical components if it was just a regular thumbscrew. It would make more sense to have the thumbscrews just be one solid piece of metal if it wasn't some kind of smart screw.


----------



## Molybdenum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *particleman*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> Can the Kuhler 620 be lapped without voiding the warranty? Mine has a little 'spike' in the middle and made a mark on the top of my 2500k. Fairly upset about it...
> 
> 
> 
> According to a Antec support rep who replied in a Hexus.net thread, you can lap it as long it does not cause any warranty claims that can be connected to the lapping.
> http://forums.hexus.net/antec-care-hexus/233569-kuhler-620-bad-surface-cpu-block.html
> 
> As for my issue with the screws turning indefinitely, I am certain the silver recievers are correctly in the base. My mounting mechanism looks like the mounting mechanism included in this PNY watercooling kit.
> http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/microatx-gaming-overclocked,3039-2.html
> 
> The hybrid thumb screws no not look like they are a singular piece of steel. It looks like there are several mechanical parts; there is a silver piece of metal around the philips screw, which almost looks like a spring or washer. I turned the philips screws for quite a while and they just kept turning. I don't think I would have stripped all 4 screws, especially since I didn't have to turn it that hard. My theory is they changed the screws to some sort of smart screw that prevents over-tightening after they had all those complaints of cracking the plastic on the mounts with the old mounting mechanism. I mean why would they screws consist of several mechanical components if it was just a regular thumbscrew. It would make more sense to have the thumbscrews just be one solid piece of metal if it wasn't some kind of smart screw.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the link. I'll lap it and see if that helps performance any, the bottom is fairly bad looking on mine.

I pulled my mounting kit out of the box, when it isn't installed on my motherboard, I can only tighten the screws a bit, then they stop. No free spinning for me. My kit looks like what's in the picture you provided, and I have a small steel ring at the top of the screw as well. The rest of the screw seems to be one piece (except the plastic 'thumb' part). Are you able to take yours off the motherboard and check it out?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> Can the Kuhler 620 be lapped without voiding the warranty? Mine has a little 'spike' in the middle and made a mark on the top of my 2500k. Fairly upset about it...


I would totally send a pic of both the cooler and cpu to Antec if that happened to me...


----------



## Molybdenum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> Can the Kuhler 620 be lapped without voiding the warranty? Mine has a little 'spike' in the middle and made a mark on the top of my 2500k. Fairly upset about it...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I would totally send a pic of both the cooler and cpu to Antec if that happened to me...
Click to expand...

I only have a crappy camera and can't get a pic to come out that actually shows it. It's small, but definitely noticeable in person. After I cleaned off the TIM, I could feel the bump on the center of the cooler surface.

What should I say to Antec though? Or what should I hope for them to do?


----------



## Krusher33

I wouldn't expect much since it still works but it doesn't hurt to at least mention it.


----------



## Hardwarepb

My test of noise, Kuhler Antec 920 with two Cougar Fans Vortex


----------



## M3TAl

Hey what thermal paste do you guys recommend for these Kuhlers??? The only thing I have is Arctic Silver Ceramique. It's very likely that I will be buying a new mobo, ram, and psu soon so a reseat is in order.


----------



## M3TAl

Ah well i bought some Arctic Cooling MX-2.


----------



## particleman

I didn't want to take everything apart on my system to check the bottom of the motherboard, but upon researching the issue further, I think the reason why my screws turn endlessly is because the metal receivers came out of their plastic locks and rubbed away at them. This isn't a photo of my install but from a post on another forum of someone else who has the intel water cooling kit which is also made by asetek and uses the same mounting mechanism.



http://forum.notebookreview.com/off-topic/639238-desktop-computer-discussion-lounge-64.html

Apparently it is not a problem if it is already mounted since the screws are already in and tightened, so I will just leave it as is. But if I ever want to remount the block, I think I will need to superglue the metal receivers in place.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Molybdenum*
> 
> Thanks for the link. I'll lap it and see if that helps performance any, the bottom is fairly bad looking on mine.
> I pulled my mounting kit out of the box, when it isn't installed on my motherboard, I can only tighten the screws a bit, then they stop. No free spinning for me. My kit looks like what's in the picture you provided, and I have a small steel ring at the top of the screw as well. The rest of the screw seems to be one piece (except the plastic 'thumb' part). Are you able to take yours off the motherboard and check it out?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *particleman*
> 
> I didn't want to take everything apart on my system to check the bottom of the motherboard, but upon researching the issue further, I think the reason why my screws turn endlessly is because the metal receivers came out of their plastic locks and rubbed away at them. This isn't a photo of my install but from a post on another forum of someone else who has the intel water cooling kit which is also made by asetek and uses the same mounting mechanism.
> http://img850.imageshack.us/img850/6849/sany0159.jpg
> 
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/off-topic/639238-desktop-computer-discussion-lounge-64.html
> Apparently it is not a problem if it is already mounted since the screws are already in and tightened, so I will just leave it as is. But if I ever want to remount the block, I think I will need to superglue the metal receivers in place.


Ooooh... why didn't we think of that.


----------



## strych9

Looking forward to be a member of the club, but I'm a bit worried about the clicking noise issue. The 620, the one I'd like to buy, isn't available here in Bangladesh, and if I get it shipped from USA, shipping it back for RMA if any problem shows up will require a hell lot of money, so RMA won't be possible. Is the clicking noise issue is there in most of the coolers and is there any way to fix it?


----------



## leelin

My 620 has been in my system for 14 months now & i have yet to have a problem with it, clicking or otherwise. The 620 I have in my 2nd PC has been in there for about 11 months & it also has given no problems. The 620 i put in my friends PC when i built it in November 2011 is still working without noise or issue.
That being said, none of mine are from the USA.
Hope that helps.


----------



## strych9

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *leelin*
> 
> My 620 has been in my system for 14 months now & i have yet to have a problem with it, clicking or otherwise. The 620 I have in my 2nd PC has been in there for about 11 months & it also has given no problems. The 620 i put in my friends PC when i built it in November 2011 is still working without noise or issue.
> That being said, none of mine are from the USA.
> Hope that helps.


Thank you


----------



## Synner

Hi all. My first post here though I do browse through the forum from time to time. You all seem like rather intelligent people and I have a bit of a situation, so I'd like to pick your brains to see what you all think.









I recently bought both a Corsair 550D (very nice case overall) and an H100. As per my typical luck I got one of those lovely units with a nicely grinding pump. The diode adapter that I made keeps it quiet 90% of the time, but the other 10% is far, far worse like the pump is just going to explode, until I literally smack my case to make it stop. No way I'm keeping this thing. So, here is my situation:

1) I can get it replaced through Corsair, who supposedly has (finally) fixed the issues. At this point though I'm not so sure that I trust them. Hence, this post.

2) I can get a refund and go back to air cooling. I really don't want to have a giant hunk of copper hanging from my motherboard though, and I also HATE installing massively over-sized air coolers, so I'd probably just get something like a Hyper 212 Evo and save some cash. I would probably have to forget about overclocking though, and also hope it doesn't run too warm whenever I get around to replacing my 965BE (which will be whenever AMD gets Vishera(?) out the door). One of the pitfalls of having a case built for silence I suppose, but that's why I wanted a liquid cooler along with the 550D - moderate overclocking with acceptable noise. On the plus side I could keep the top panel on my case so long as things AREN'T getting too hot (would apply to a 920 as exhaust also)., making my system even more quiet.

Right now I have to use my old 92mm Freezer 64. Worked plenty good enough in my old Antec 900 dust box so long as I cleaned it out every 2 weeks (I don't miss that one bit), but it's just barely cutting the mustard in my new case even at stock settings. This adds to my concerns about sticking with air cooling. I know a larger/newer cooler like the Evo will be a decent improvement, but it's a question of just how much.

3) I can get a refund and order up a Kuhler 920, about which I have some questions particularly where running one in my specific case (Corsair 550D) is concerned, and that is why I'm posting in this particular thread (hopefully I'm in the right place). So, on to the point. Sorry for being long winded.









If it is rear mounted as my only exhaust (keeping the top of my 550D closed up), will it still cool effectively? I'd prefer to keep the top of my case closed if I was going to switch to the 920. This would be another bonus over the H100. In all, basically I'd have the same concerns as giving up and using an air cooler regarding thermals, though I'm sure it would still be at least somewhat better where the CPU is concerned on top of the heat being dumped directly out of the case. I would of course still have the option of adding top intake fans to give the radiator exhaust more cool air if necessary but I'd have to probably spend another $30+ on fans for that. Pulling air in through the back of the case (radiator) and exhausting out of the top would either suck in dust or require me to also buy a magnetic filter so I'd rather avoid that.

It appears that my motherboards VRM heatsink (Gigabyte GA-990XA-UD3) would actually be behind the radiator. Any potential problems with them overheating due to lack of air? Anything else I should be aware of with such a thick radiator and 2 fans mounted in the rear? Again, top intake could help here as one of the fans is directly above the heatsink, but would add more noise and cost.

I've seen quite a few posts here and elsewhere about the Kuhler units also having pump issues. What are my chances of getting another lemon?









I have a few days to make a decision before I will have to either RMA to Newegg for a refund (probably minus restock unfortunately), or stick with the H100 and try my luck with Corsair, so ultimately I guess either unit is going to cost me just as much. Your input is greatly appreciated!

Forgot to mention, I'll only be running a single Gigabyte HD7950 which is arriving within the next day or 2, to give you an idea of what will be heating up my case. This is also why I don't want to have to spend more money - I don't have any left for my upgrade budget!


----------



## Krusher33

Can I present another option? If the refund of the H100 is over $100... I would save up just a bit more and get a XSPC Rasa kit. They're about $120 for the 120mm rad kit and $130 for the 240mm rad kit @ PPC's.

If you're worried about custom watercooling, take a visit to the watercooling forum here on OCN. They're quite the helpful bunch and there's even a XSPC Rasa club full of active posters always working with each other.


----------



## dasein

*deleted


----------



## kingbobyjr

Hi all...

I have been happily running the Antec Kuhler 920 with two Cooler Master Blade Master 120 (say that 10 times fast...







) fans that is keeping my overclocked (4.6 Ghz) 2600k nice and cool.

My question is with the Chill Control V software. I have it checked to run on start up but it never starts up. I have checked the registry and it puts an entry in the HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Run

Has anyone else been able to get the Chill Control software to start automatically?

One thing I did try was uninstalling and reinstalling the software to no avail.

Thanks for any help!!!


----------



## 2thAche

Here is the mounting of my Kuhler 620 to a non-reference GTX570:



Looks great, nice low profile. Fired it up, 39C during FarCry 2 %98 usage. *Too bad it rattles like crazy*. Total fail. Going to swap it for an H5O I have and take it back to Microcenter unless it happens to be quiet in a different orientation.

That rattling will drive me nuts, can't take it. Shaking the RAD doesn't help. Too bad 'cause I really like the lower profile of the pump vs H5O.


----------



## Krusher33

Mine don't rattle. You sure it's not loose? Maybe the fan's loose?


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *2thAche*
> 
> Here is the mounting of my Kuhler 620 to a non-reference GTX570:
> 
> Looks great, nice low profile. Fired it up, 39C during FarCry 2 %98 usage. *Too bad it rattles like crazy*. Total fail. Going to swap it for an H5O I have and take it back to Microcenter unless it happens to be quiet in a different orientation.
> That rattling will drive me nuts, can't take it. Shaking the RAD doesn't help. Too bad 'cause I really like the lower profile of the pump vs H5O.


Before disasembeling it, try putting a small magnet on it and see if it stops the ratteling. Remeber to put some tape around the magnet.
And you are sure it is getting enough power? its starts to rattle like crazy if its doing under 700rpm, but it starts making sound around 1000rpm, mine does at least.. Need to stay at 1400rpm but if it works as it should you shouldnt be able to hear the pump almost at all,so there is no point of uncervoltag the pump to make it more silent, its just the oposite


----------



## RKTGX95

Have anyone tried the Corsair SP120 fans on the 620 or the 920? how well they perform ?

(and, how far is the 620 with good fans from the D14?)


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Have anyone tried the Corsair SP120 fans on the 620 or the 920? how well they perform ?
> (and, how far is the 620 with good fans from the D14?)


http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/zardon/antec-kuhler-h20-620-liquid-cooler-review/4/

As close as you can get I would say. This is whit stock fan, so if you use push pull and better fans im pritty sure you would make it performe better than d14, but then it isnt a regular 620 anymore, is it? hehe


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/zardon/antec-kuhler-h20-620-liquid-cooler-review/4/
> As close as you can get I would say. This is whit stock fan, so if you use push pull and better fans im pritty sure you would make it performe better than d14, but then it isnt a regular 620 anymore, is it? hehe


thanks for that, but it is kinda confusing with this review because others have very different benches on the 620 (btw, what that button on the block does?)

Do you need to buy extra screws to mount an additional fan on the 620 ?


----------



## ruarcs30

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> thanks for that, but it is kinda confusing with this review because others have very different benches on the 620 (btw, what that button on the block does?)
> Do you need to buy extra screws to mount an additional fan on the 620 ?


There is no button on the 620, it just can look like it. Yes and no. Some use 2 screws on eatch fan.like this ' . I cant the english word for it,hehe,but im sure you understand what I mean. That is good enough


----------



## Krusher33

2 fans each or buy some 6-32 screws from a hardware store.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> There is no button on the 620, it just can look like it. Yes and no. Some us 2 screws on eatch fan.like this ' . I cant the english word for it,hehe,but im sure you understand what I mean. That is good enough


Yeah thanks for clearing that up, its just so confusing with all the reviews that dont mention it at all.
and i think you mean 2 screws in diagonal? (i use it on my 775 system with the rubber mounts that came with my Zalman ZM-F1 80mm fan for the case, lol )

and for the screw, 6-32 screws how long should they be? (for fans, i guess a bit longer than 25mm)


----------



## ruarcs30

Haha, its the exact same word in english as in norwegian thenSame spelling aslo.

I will check the length on them in to 20 min, just going to drink morning cofe and read through mails etc.
I put on another fan last night, and it gave alittle effect, but not as mutch as you could think. Or perhaps a person witch is into wc would have thought that,hehe, I think perhaps it is due to the small radiator and 1 fan is almost able to do the jobb, ergo its not that a big diffrence on 1 or 2 fans. But using another fan togheter whit stock fan in push pull made the db go down


----------



## LostZombie

I actually did the diagonal screws setup last night cause I wanted a push/pull config on the 620, started it up and so far haven't heard any sort of vibration from it with only the two screws holding the fans on.


----------



## ruarcs30

100% that has tried it says so, not often you get 100%








Ofcourse, It will not hold as long under an earhquake or if you shake it as hard as you can, but it prob. would stay in place anyway. 4 screws is kind of overkill,hehe. But if they had made it whit only 2 and saved the 2 screws people would have responded badly i ques,hehe. Just a thought. Whats sure it is that you can use 2 on eatch side and it will get equal as good as whit 4 screws.


----------



## 2thAche

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Before disasembeling it, try putting a small magnet on it and see if it stops the ratteling. Remeber to put some tape around the magnet.
> And you are sure it is getting enough power? its starts to rattle like crazy if its doing under 700rpm, but it starts making sound around 1000rpm, mine does at least.. Need to stay at 1400rpm but if it works as it should you shouldnt be able to hear the pump almost at all,so there is no point of uncervoltag the pump to make it more silent, its just the oposite


I tested direct to a PSU powered on just the pump. It is quiet face up, quiet vertically but any tilt toward face down and it starts rattling. Swapped in an H5O I had and no noise. Oh well.


----------



## RKTGX95

i have a few (additional questions)
1) is this review represents the 620 well in real life perf?
2) Can an any 3-pin fan be used on the 3-pin connection of the 620 (and be controlled) ?
3) can i use a spliter for the fan connection?

just very intrigued lately


----------



## particleman

Well I finally had some time to take my motherboard out and check the backplate/bracket. The metal receivers didn't come of of the holes, but they warped the plastic around it. It was quite the challenge to unscrew the waterblock/pump off of the motherboard because even when I turned it in the reverse counter-clockwise direction all it would do is spin in the grove in the plastic it made. Unscrewing it required wedging a small thin flat head screwdriver in a gap in the plastic backplate while unscrewing it on the other side.

After removing the block, I realizing the backplate was unusable in its current state since the metal receiver would now spin with not too much pressure. So to fix it, I used some solder paste on the metal receiver and torched it a bit while it was in the blackplate, thus soldering the metal receivers to the plastic backplate and melting the plastic to a perfect mould around the metal receiver. The metal screw receivers definitely aren't going to move again this time. The downside is I won't be able to switch the mounting holes to LGA1366 or 775 but I figure I am never going to downgrade my CPU so no big deal. I also put some plastic washers about 2mm thick between the backplate and the motherboard to add some extra pressure when mounting the block/pump, but from my early testing it doesn't appear to have made any difference in my temperatures.

I wish Antec/Asetek would switch to a completely steel backplate like you see on the bigger air coolers out there. It would not only be more durable but it would prevent board flex as well.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *particleman*
> 
> I didn't want to take everything apart on my system to check the bottom of the motherboard, but upon researching the issue further, I think the reason why my screws turn endlessly is because the metal receivers came out of their plastic locks and rubbed away at them. This isn't a photo of my install but from a post on another forum of someone else who has the intel water cooling kit which is also made by asetek and uses the same mounting mechanism.
> 
> http://forum.notebookreview.com/off-topic/639238-desktop-computer-discussion-lounge-64.html
> Apparently it is not a problem if it is already mounted since the screws are already in and tightened, so I will just leave it as is. But if I ever want to remount the block, I think I will need to superglue the metal receivers in place.


----------



## DarkStar99

Hi guys, quick question for the more experienced folks here:

I have an Antec p280 case with a Kuhler 920 mounted as exhaust in the rear 120mm fan spot. I was thinking about switching it to intake to see if I can get a boost to my cpu cooling. I figure the air will be cooler coming in from the outside, and the hot air coming into the case will exhaust out the 2 top 120mm exhaust fans. I figure the downside may be slightly increased case temps, but i do have intake fans in the front bringing in air as well. Any serious downsides to this setup? I will also be placing an intake filter in the back if i do this.


----------



## ruarcs30

No, thats a decent way to do it  Your system temp should not increase mutch if any at all. Tips, more fans pushing air into the case than fans pulling it out.


----------



## Diogenes5

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DarkStar99*
> 
> Hi guys, quick question for the more experienced folks here:
> I have an Antec p280 case with a Kuhler 920 mounted as exhaust in the rear 120mm fan spot. I was thinking about switching it to intake to see if I can get a boost to my cpu cooling. I figure the air will be cooler coming in from the outside, and the hot air coming into the case will exhaust out the 2 top 120mm exhaust fans. I figure the downside may be slightly increased case temps, but i do have intake fans in the front bringing in air as well. Any serious downsides to this setup? I will also be placing an intake filter in the back if i do this.


In general if you want to improve temps you should go for massive positive pressure with many fans pulling cool air in and good airflow. With this method you won't even need exhaust fans. The air will just be exhausted naturally. Search this site for Ehume. He has a very good write-up about it.


----------



## DarkStar99

Thanks guys! I'll give it a try after I grab some slightly longer screws...just fit when I installed so I'm sure the fan filter will make them too shortt


----------



## AddictedGamer93

Lets say you have a one of the rattly/grinding pumps, does that have any affect on pump life span?


----------



## Krunchy

Heh, you guys were definitely diligent alright, and went down a proper troubleshooting path - well done.

I admit I was not as diligent and had not read all the preceding posts...

Upon further review, I can see how a bad batch of pumps made it out the door, and it comes down to just bad luck/timing that you keep getting units issued from that batch!









I got my 920 via Newegg, was a 24hr only deal, great price, very pleased. My unit has been working perfectly since installation - I'm quite impressed. I used Arctic 5 Silver and swapped out the stock Antec fans for a couple Cougar PWMs. I also added an Akasa PWM splitter adapter, to take the 12V load from the fans off the mobo: h ttp://www.sidewindercomputers.com/akpwmsimocaa.html

This setup totally rocks. Quiet, nice low temps, perfect for my application. Highly recommended.

.


----------



## JFHRageQuit

yes yes i understand its a closed loop system how ever in my case and if you had indeed read my other posts i had to mount the rad, on the back outside of my case only way to do so was to take the hoses off the pump and in doing so lost alil bit of liquid not enough to worry about though, and as of yet i have still (knock on wood) have not had any issues in cooling, again ive dropped my temps even more since i last posted its still running cherry with no issues


----------



## ruarcs30

Hum. I just changed on my settup. I put the pump into powerfan (pwr fan) or what ever it is called, it gives full power ( not to mutch I hope?? )to my pump so it runs around 1400rpm. Then i put the stock fan into the cpu fan and another fan into system fan, in push / pull. In bios I set system and cpu fans to auto. Almost the same temps as before but waaaay mutch more silent when playing games like bf3, civ 5, arma2 etc. No point in using the fan on 1400-2000rpm when your cpu are so little oc as mine are. When stresstesting the fan doesnt start to make high sound before socket is at 50, witch I never are unless stresstesting.

Using push pull whit fans on "half speed" is as good as stock fan on full but as sayed way more silent

A question: Using pwr fan on pump, its ok? Or can i put to mutch power into it this way? Bios reports the pump running on 1400rpm so it seems fine.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AddictedGamer93*
> 
> Lets say you have a one of the rattly/grinding pumps, does that have any affect on pump life span?


Well, that depends on what are making the sound, doesn't it? But I would belive that it will shorten the lifespan on the pump... Any who has an answer to this? Im curious about it myself, knowlege knowlege knowlege


----------



## tetrismaster

I'm trying to free up a fan header, need some help on getting the pump to draw power from another source than the mobo.

I'm thinking about connecting the pump connector to something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-3-Pin-Connector-FAN-CABLE/dp/B000V6T5HW/

That way the pump draws power directly from the PSU and can run full power all the time. No need to control the pump, can't on the 620 with the mobo anyways.

Will this work?


----------



## ruarcs30

Yes, that should work. Then you can set the fan into cpu fan on your mb and controll it whit easytune,speedfan etc, you will actually get the 620 whithing decent db.

I connected my pump to pwr fan and it runs at 1400rpm constantly, i ques it will be the same in a way to use that adapter


----------



## Krusher33

That's how I'm doing mine and it works fine.


----------



## tcboy88

my antec kuhler 620 starts making noise after 10months of usage
some vibration sounds
i think it is the rattling sound every1 is talking about

disappointed with antec product


----------



## Krusher33

Could it be the screws gotten loose? Have you tightened it all down? 10 months is a long time untouched.


----------



## jopy

-_- *** my antec 920 leaked.....


----------



## dislikeyou

Is chassis like these a solution to the rattling noise because the mobo (pump) would be horizontal?


----------



## InsideJob

Heres mine







Got my CPU running nice and smooth in the summer temps when my 212 evo couldnt keep up. I also got it on sale for like $50 CND


----------



## hangman

sweet. don't leave it out there for too long lest the ants start colonizing


----------



## Krusher33

red,yellow,black wires









Time for some sleeving.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> red,yellow,black wires
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for some sleeving.


I know... Im broke at the moment :/


----------



## RKTGX95

Does anyone know what is the fan bearing of the 920 fans?


----------



## Macke93

Finally mounted my 620 to my new CPU today! Much more quiet than original air cooler!


















Can anyone recommend me som quiet and high perfomance fans to my 620 H2O radiator?
I'll be running it PnP (Push and Pull), thanks in advance !


----------



## grassh0ppa

Hey guys,

I've been busy with school and Judo all summer long and in september I will be even more busy. I have not been able to maintain this thread as well as I would like to; I am hoping to turn it over to someone who is willing to do a better job than I have done here.

PM me if interested.


----------



## Connie

Is the coolant in the 620 non conductive and distilled?


----------



## bf3player1978

Getting my new h20 kuhler in a couple days. Just wondering does anyone have it on a fx 8120? If so how far can I look to push my CPU? Rumors are you can get 4.7ghz on this water cooler.

Thanks


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Getting my new h20 kuhler in a couple days. Just wondering does anyone have it on a fx 8120? If so how far can I look to push my CPU? Rumors are you can get 4.7ghz on this water cooler.
> Thanks


I have it on my FX-8120







the cooling paste on my CPU and 620 cooler is two different ones and it isn't complety perfect applicied, so if I just change the cooling paste on both i expect a few degrees lower!









At the moment mine isn't overclocked at all, running at 1400-3100mhz, Idle is 15-19 degrees celsius and load during Call of Duty: MW3 Multiplayer sessions it reaches att maxium 54 degrees with my chassis other fans running at lower speeds, with chassi fans running at max speed it highest temperature is 49 degrees!

I'm using my radiator and radiator fan as "exhaust", with other words, it blow the hot air out in at the back of my case!


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> I have it on my FX-8120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the cooling paste on my CPU and 620 cooler is two different ones and it isn't complety perfect applicied, so if I just change the cooling paste on both i expect a few degrees lower!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment mine isn't overclocked at all, running at 1400-3100mhz, Idle is 15-19 degrees celsius and load during Call of Duty: MW3 Multiplayer sessions it reaches att maxium 54 degrees with my chassis other fans running at lower speeds, with chassi fans running at max speed it highest temperature is 49 degrees!
> I'm using my radiator and radiator fan as "exhaust", with other words, it blow the hot air out in at the back of my case!


You have hot air going into your system? I'm looking to do a push pull method on mine when I get it.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> You have hot air going into your system? I'm looking to do a push pull method on mine when I get it.


I'm also going to do a push and pull setup soon!


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> I'm also going to do a push and pull setup soon!


So u mean u got your radiator set up as intake right? That's what I'm going to do.


----------



## particleman

I've always wondered how do people get such low idle temperatures? Unless you go phase change or liquid nitrogen, it is impossible to get below ambient temperature. I mean is the Air Conditioning cranked up in a cold basemen?.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> I have it on my FX-8120
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the cooling paste on my CPU and 620 cooler is two different ones and it isn't complety perfect applicied, so if I just change the cooling paste on both i expect a few degrees lower!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment mine isn't overclocked at all, running at 1400-3100mhz, Idle is 15-19 degrees celsius and load during Call of Duty: MW3 Multiplayer sessions it reaches att maxium 54 degrees with my chassis other fans running at lower speeds, with chassi fans running at max speed it highest temperature is 49 degrees!
> I'm using my radiator and radiator fan as "exhaust", with other words, it blow the hot air out in at the back of my case!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> So u mean u got your radiator set up as intake right? That's what I'm going to do.


I currently have my 620 placed as the only exhaust on my case excluding my PSU. All other fans are intake and the air travelling through the rad is never too hot. I get load temps during gaming around 49, and idle around 31-32. As well as a push pull config using the old blademaster off my CM 212 EVO. Clocked the CPU up to 4.2 ghz stable







Nice cooler for an all in one liquid cooler. I would definitely recommend push pull, lower temps the better


----------



## M3TAl

Guys is this normal for the backplate on AM3+???


See how the metal inserts at the top of the backplate are on top of the plastic and the metal inserts on the bottom are recessed into the plastic? Is this why when I tighten the screws my screws continually tighten and there's no stopping point? It will eventually just "pop" out and then continue tightening again almost like a stripped screw or something.

Just moved all my parts to a new case and noticed this. Is it normal? Should I be concerned? Also remounted when I switched to new mobo few weeks ago (used arctic cooling mx-2) and my temps seem worse. Not sure what's going on. Maybe need to just tighten the screws some more? How do you know when they are tightened enough?


----------



## particleman

I had this problem too, the plastic on the backplate is way too soft and it deforms when you apply even just a moderate amount of force tightening the screws. Once the plastic is deformed, the backplate is ruined and you have to do something to keep those metal receivers from continually turning if you ever want to remount your heatsink. I used a combination of superglue and a torch to bond the plastic to the receivers. The screws don't need to be that tight though, the screws are actually designed so they can only go in so far. To get the extra pressure on your waterblock to compensate for your deformed backplate, I would just use some plastic washers on between the backplate and the motherboard (that is what I did).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Guys is this normal for the backplate on AM3+???
> 
> See how the metal inserts at the top of the backplate are on top of the plastic and the metal inserts on the bottom are recessed into the plastic? Is this why when I tighten the screws my screws continually tighten and there's no stopping point? It will eventually just "pop" out and then continue tightening again almost like a stripped screw or something.
> Just moved all my parts to a new case and noticed this. Is it normal? Should I be concerned? Also remounted when I switched to new mobo few weeks ago (used arctic cooling mx-2) and my temps seem worse. Not sure what's going on. Maybe need to just tighten the screws some more? How do you know when they are tightened enough?


----------



## LMP

Presently I have an Asetek 510LC and I am thinking about upgrading to an Antec 920. Will the pump from the Antec 920 fit in to my Asetek mounting hardware?

I ask because from the pictures I have seen they both look pretty similar.


----------



## bf3player1978

[quote name="particleman" url="/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-

club/2090#post_17829762"]I had this problem too, the plastic on the backplate is way too soft and it deforms when you apply even just a moderate amount of force tightening the screws. Once the plastic is deformed, the backplate is ruined and you have to do something to keep those metal receivers from continually turning if you ever want to remount your heatsink. I used a combination of superglue and a torch to bond the plastic to the receivers. The screws don't need to be that tight though, the screws are actually designed so they can only go in so far. To get the extra pressure on your waterblock to compensate for your deformed backplate, I would just use some plastic washers on between the backplate and the motherboard (that is what I did).
[/quote]

Does everyone have this problem? Now I'm scared to install this cooler.


----------



## Face76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Does everyone have this problem? Now I'm scared to install this cooler.


I didn't. If the plastic does indeed strip, hold that side in place with needle nose pliers while tightening the other side.


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Face76*
> 
> I didn't. If the plastic does indeed strip, hold that side in place with needle nose pliers while tightening the other side.


Ok thanks, I was hoping it was not doing it on everyone


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Guys is this normal for the backplate on AM3+???
> 
> See how the metal inserts at the top of the backplate are on top of the plastic and the metal inserts on the bottom are recessed into the plastic? Is this why when I tighten the screws my screws continually tighten and there's no stopping point? It will eventually just "pop" out and then continue tightening again almost like a stripped screw or something.
> Just moved all my parts to a new case and noticed this. Is it normal? Should I be concerned? Also remounted when I switched to new mobo few weeks ago (used arctic cooling mx-2) and my temps seem worse. Not sure what's going on. Maybe need to just tighten the screws some more? How do you know when they are tightened enough?


You have it on backwards, it should be flat against the back of the motherboard. You shouldn't experience that problem after you make that adjustment


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> You have it on backwards, it should be flat against the back of the motherboard. You shouldn't experience that problem after you make that adjustment


Wait really? Not saying you're wrong but is it really backwards? Doesn't the adhesive backing go on the side I currently have against the motherboard? It's a little recessed and the adhesive backing fits right in (although my adhesive isn't on the backplate at all because I couldn't get it off my old mobo).


----------



## InsideJob

HEHE, I lied apparently







my bad. Double checked mine and you have it the right way. Make sure all your little metal inserts are clipped into the plastic backing all the way. You will see how they line up and fall into place with a little bit of pressure. It is a plastic backing so there will be some give in it. Either way, as with any cooler... Don't tighten it down too hard at to put too much pressure on your mother board itself.

I notice in your picture at least the top right metal insert isnt in all the way which might help the problem. As for temps, it could be thermal paste application?


----------



## M3TAl

Guess I need to take backplate off and have a looksee. So you're saying the metal insert on the bottom of my backing plate is correctly put in? It should be recessed into the plastic like in my pic? If so then both my top metal inserts are wrong. I did all this over a year ago and haven't thought about it since so don't remember if I ran into some kind of problem getting the inserts in correctly or something.

As for the paste application it was my first time to ever use MX-2. I put some on the middle of the chip and that was that. Let the pressure of the block spread it out. This is what the arctic cooling website recommended.


----------



## bf3player1978

can someone supply some pics of the right way to do this. im a newbie at this and just wanna have some help. as i hear the instructions are worthless...

thanks


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Guess I need to take backplate off and have a looksee. So you're saying the metal insert on the bottom of my backing plate is correctly put in? It should be recessed into the plastic like in my pic? If so then both my top metal inserts are wrong. I did all this over a year ago and haven't thought about it since so don't remember if I ran into some kind of problem getting the inserts in correctly or something.
> As for the paste application it was my first time to ever use MX-2. I put some on the middle of the chip and that was that. Let the pressure of the block spread it out. This is what the arctic cooling website recommended.


Yes the bottom inserts are correct in your picture. Should help when you get those top two in there as well.


----------



## InsideJob

Heres the front and back of mine.
Sorry for sideways, forgot to edit them. If its a big deal I'll rotate and re-upload.


----------



## M3TAl

Not sure if any one will have any clue to this next question of mine but might as well give it a shot. In the next few months I will probably be buying a bunch of Spectre Pro 120&140mm fans. Trying to quiet my case down, not silent but quiet. And these Spectre Pro fans are damn near silent. My psu fan almost silent and my vapor-x 5770 almost silent. Only the Antec fan is loud.

Does anyone think 2x Spectre Pro in push/pull would match the cooling performance of 1x stock Antec fan? I'm pretty content with the performance of the Antec fan just the noise not so much. If 2 of these in p/p could match the Antec fan I would be pleased.

I know most companies listed fan specs are well, for the most part made up lol but from all the reviews/videos I've looked at the listed specs for these fans are very close to accurate.

120mm
Speed (RPM) 1200 RPM ±10%
Air Flow (CFM) 56.22 CFM ±10%
Air Pressure (mmH2O) 1.24 mmH2O
Noise (dB-A) 18.9 dB(A)

What you guys think?


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> 
> 
> Heres the front and back of mine.
> Sorry for sideways, forgot to edit them. If its a big deal I'll rotate and re-upload.


u had no install problems?


----------



## M3TAl

It's really not very hard. Just get the backplate on the mobo and the pump bracket on there.

The only hard part, at least for me, is getting the block/pump into the bracket. Make sure you barely screw the bracket down, leave a lot of slack. Almost every time I mount the block I end up not being able to get it to lock because I screwed the bracket down too much.

Look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbNKNkLxCpk

Sure there are a lot more on the youtubes.


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> u had no install problems?






No problems, its a bit tricky to get the pump in the bracket the exact way desired but I got it done







Im sure you'll get it done no problem!


----------



## cdoublejj

any one rocking one with a q9550? also does a push pull make a _notable_ difference?


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> 
> 
> Heres the front and back of mine.
> Sorry for sideways, forgot to edit them. If its a big deal I'll rotate and re-upload.


You back top fan and Kuhler fan are fighting each other for air.


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It's really not very hard. Just get the backplate on the mobo and the pump bracket on there.
> The only hard part, at least for me, is getting the block/pump into the bracket. Make sure you barely screw the bracket down, leave a lot of slack. Almost every time I mount the block I end up not being able to get it to lock because I screwed the bracket down too much.
> Look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NbNKNkLxCpk
> Sure there are a lot more on the youtubes.


Thanks much help. I'll shoot you pic when I'm done


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cdoublejj*
> 
> You back top fan and Kuhler fan are fighting each other for air.


Really, the top fans are intake blowing down into the case...?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Really, the top fans are intake blowing down into the case...?


I'm thinking about trying the same type of fan setup... Intake on top and the antec exhausting on the rear
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Thanks much help. I'll shoot you pic when I'm done


Pics! yes yes!


----------



## bf3player1978

It's common since that hot air rises, so it's better for exhaust at top and kuhler intake in rear. I'm gonna have intakes ini front and back with exhaust at top.


----------



## bf3player1978

Oh btw , is it best to remove antec's thermal paste off the block and use my own arctic mx-4 paste?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Oh btw , is it best to remove antec's thermal paste off the block and use my own arctic mx-4 paste?


Yes...That's what I use and I think if I remember correctly, my max temp on an Intel Burn Test at Max settings was 52c with amd phenom II 965 quad oc at 3.8Ghz


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Yes...That's what I use and I think if I remember correctly, my max temp on an Intel Burn Test at Max settings was 52c with amd phenom II 965 quad oc at 3.8Ghz


Thanks will take it off and apply my own. I'm hoping to get at least 4.3 - 4.5 using this cooler.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> It's common since that hot air rises, so it's better for exhaust at top and kuhler intake in rear. I'm gonna have intakes ini front and back with exhaust at top.


I too use this fan setup and it works great!


----------



## Krusher33

On my H60, I was doing intake at top and exhaust out back but I think what was happening is that the air kept getting re-circulated. I just saw my temp keep rising and rising and rising. Even on idle.

Flipped it to intake at back, exhaust out top, and I'm seeing much better temps plus a plateau when stress testing.


----------



## cdoublejj

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Really, the top fans are intake blowing down into the case...?


thats interesting because heat naturally rises. I did that onece a with a single 80mm blow hole, i used it to feed some fresh air to my power supply.


----------



## Face76

Although the 620 has a thinner radiator, is it worth it to add a second fan just like the 920?

Also picked up an adapter to run the pump direct off the PS and will run the fans off a controller.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *particleman*
> 
> I've always wondered how do people get such low idle temperatures? Unless you go phase change or liquid nitrogen, it is impossible to get below ambient temperature. I mean is the Air Conditioning cranked up in a cold basemen?.


I'm using core temp and my motherboard asus software to check the temps, and in comparision it is plus/minus 2 degrees celius depening on which program I look in!








Room temperature is around 19-25 degrees, so if these programs is true to me showing those low temperatures, I'm happy !







either way, it's a lot better cooling than stock!


----------



## bf3player1978

if i am going to remove antec's thermal paste, do i apply thermal paste the normal way just like an air cooler?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> if i am going to remove antec's thermal paste, do i apply thermal paste the normal way just like an air cooler?


Yes...only apply the paste to the cpu and then just install the cooler on it.


----------



## bf3player1978

All lights and fans come on but no video. Did I install wrong?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> All lights and fans come on but no video. Did I install wrong?


Uh, oh. Are you getting any beeps?

I really need to take mine apart and fix my backplate and reapply this mx-2 because my temps are a lot worse than with my old case and stock paste. Also going to try a bunch of different fan setups using same settings over next few weeks and see what works best for me. Going to try removing and blocking off the furthest back top intake and only have the 2nd top intake installed. Hopefully this will reduce the re circulation.


----------



## bf3player1978

WOW, BENT PIN ON CHIP !!! lucky as i am, i bent it back ever so carefully.....now works.


----------



## M3TAl

OOO man lucky!!! Way back when I built my first PC I was like 14 or something and didn't know anything. Multiple bent pins on my P4 Prescott 3ghz and couldn't fix it (should of got an AMD too cuz they were faster back then but I didn't know any better... 3ghz woweee). Think some of them broke off trying to fix it lol. That was a dark day


----------



## bf3player1978

prime95 temps went from 61c to 48c @ 4.0ghz


----------



## bf3player1978

4.3ghz tops out at 61c so i guess im at my ropes end...


----------



## M3TAl

Sticking another fan on there for push/pull might drop u 2C

You need to get that 8pin EPS connector on the backside of the case. Cable management eek, or does it not reach that way? Looks like it would.


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sticking another fan on there for push/pull might drop u 2C
> You need to get that 8pin EPS connector on the backside of the case. Cable management eek, or does it not reach that way? Looks like it would.


was thinking bout adding a delta 120mm 4000rpm fan to the set up.


----------



## M3TAl

If you like having a jet engine in your room then go for it. Me, I like peace and quiet.


----------



## bf3player1978

call me a newbie but, those screws for the kuhler arent long enough to add a second fan...plz advise otherwise


----------



## M3TAl

You can go to the hardware store and get 4 more screws OR you can use 2 of the stock screws on each fan diagonally.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> 
> 4.3ghz tops out at 61c so i guess im at my ropes end...


As said get another fan,
And lapping the base can shave another 4-5C off the temp.
Also get some air flow on to the VRM, Once that starts getting hot it gives erratic voltage to the CPU which can cause it to run hotter.


----------



## M3TAl

Are the steps for lapping the base same as for a cpu or does it differ? Been contemplating trying it since its kind of hard to ruin the block with sand paper.


----------



## bf3player1978

not sure what lapping the base means.. just may try to hide the 8pin power cord and do a push/pull


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> call me a newbie but, those screws for the kuhler arent long enough to add a second fan...plz advise otherwise


I use the 2 screws on each fan diagonally method and it works out just fine.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> 
> 4.3ghz tops out at 61c so i guess im at my ropes end...


I was thinking that it might be better to install your power supply with the fan facing the bottom of the case. That way it can draw cool air from the bottom of the case instead of warm/hot air from the inside of the case. Just my


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are the steps for lapping the base same as for a cpu or does it differ? Been contemplating trying it since its kind of hard to ruin the block with sand paper.


Yeah, I followed the same steps for CPU. The tricky part comes from having to hold the radiator at the same time...

I saw my base being a bit convex so I lapped it.

Edit: It was also used and scratched to hell.


----------



## bf3player1978

Can someone plz explain lapping. Remember this is my first build.


----------



## Krusher33

Lapping is the process of making the base of cooler or the top of CPU more flat to provide a better contact between cooler and CPU. If you take the CPU/Cooler and stand a razor blade (or whatever that is truly straight), hold it up to a light, you can usually see a concave/convex surface.

There are lots of youtube vids of the process and I believe we have a How-to here at OCN as well.


----------



## bf3player1978

Ok so I have posted a pic of my kuhler, now how do I get to join this club? I'm interested.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Ok so I have posted a pic of my kuhler, now how do I get to join this club? I'm interested.


In the OP, just click the google spreadsheet and add self.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> In the OP, just click the google spreadsheet and add self.


I've never been able to find a way to edit (add myself) to the spreadsheet.. Help?


----------



## Krusher33

I see what you mean now. I'm not sure... maybe pm grassh0ppa about it?


----------



## InsideJob

I've been talking to him, he's having problems himself. He mentioned maybe finding a new way of monitoring and displaying members. The spreadsheet idea's not really doing it. You got any ideas Krusher?


----------



## M3TAl

Krusher33 what kind of temp difference did you get after lapping?


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I've been talking to him, he's having problems himself. He mentioned maybe finding a new way of monitoring and displaying members. The spreadsheet idea's not really doing it. You got any ideas Krusher?


I like the 69XX owners club so far. I haven't tried it yet till I get some OC results but I like the idea of it. http://www.overclock.net/t/892583/official-amd-69xx-owners-club/0_50#

Maybe get a hold of their OP and find out how it's done?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Krusher33 what kind of temp difference did you get after lapping?


Sadly I couldn't tell ya. I didn't compare. But people will say they get 5+ degrees out of it.

And I lapped my Kuhler because I bought it used. It was all scratched up on the base. I'm using it on my GPU now.


----------



## bf3player1978

so i got a bsod, my first since i started to oc my chip past 4ghz. 0x3B is the code. anyone know how to correct this? maybe its cause i have not enough vcore? if i up the vcore my kuhler will not cool this chip at 4.3ghz....i do have push / pull now btw


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> so i got a bsod, my first since i started to oc my chip past 4ghz. 0x3B is the code. anyone know how to correct this? maybe its cause i have not enough vcore? if i up the vcore my kuhler will not cool this chip at 4.3ghz....i do have push / pull now btw


http://www.overclock.net/a/common-bsod-error-code-list-for-overclocking


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> not sure what lapping the base means.. just may try to hide the 8pin power cord and do a push/pull


Lapping it is when you carefully sand the bottom on a flat piece of glass like a mirror.
From factory the base of the cooler (copper part) isnt very perfect and its slightly convex.
So what lapping does is make it more smoother and perfectly flat so as much of the CPU is in contact with the cooler.


----------



## Krusher33

There's a wanted ad for a closed loop in the marketplace in case someone here is interested in selling theirs.


----------



## sean2012

is anyone using the 620 on the asrock 990fx extreme 4? it looks like the northbridge might get in the way of installing it on the back. im using a antec 900 gaming case. was thinking of buying one today but if it wont fit then i will just get a better air cooler


----------



## InsideJob

Moved the rad location as I realized I had a perfect potential spot for it and its perfect so far. Idling a few degrees cooler at a 4.2 ghz o.c.
Also rotated the top fans of the case to exhaust with all others intake.


----------



## M3TAl

I had mine tied to the front of my old case with shoe laces LOL. Worked pretty well and thought the antec fan was a lot quieter in that position.


----------



## jopy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I had mine tied to the front of my old case with shoe laces LOL. Worked pretty well and thought the antec fan was a lot quieter in that position.


oh my gah~ you are a genius


----------



## sean2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sean2012*
> 
> is anyone using the 620 on the asrock 990fx extreme 4? it looks like the northbridge might get in the way of installing it on the back. im using a antec 900 gaming case. was thinking of buying one today but if it wont fit then i will just get a better air cooler


anyone? i dont wanna waist the money on it if i cant install it in the back of my rig


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sean2012*
> 
> anyone? i dont wanna waist the money on it if i cant install it in the back of my rig


Honestly not sure... Looks like a very close call. Mine just passes the jacks for rear audio, so on the extreme4 it might hit the VRM heatsink. You can still rig it in the front of the case as intake if you have room and honestly I always got better temps that way. Rear is worst temps for me. Here's how mine looks mounted in the rear.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## RKTGX95

i was wondering, would i see any benefit replacing the stock fans of my Kuhler 920 with two Corsair SP120 Performance Edition? (and controlled with the motherboard)


----------



## M3TAl

Not sure. Probably about the same performance with less noise.


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not sure. Probably about the same performance with less noise.


thats good enough for me, i don't like the stock fans on full.


----------



## bf3player1978

Just a no brainer question really, you put the stronger rpm fan blowing into the radiator right? Just got my ultra Kaze 120mm fan in today. It's a monster lol..


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Just a no brainer question really, you put the stronger rpm fan blowing into the radiator right? Just got my ultra Kaze 120mm fan in today. It's a monster lol..


I would mounted the fan that way







Experincing (spell?) something better in noise and temp levels with the new fan?


----------



## sean2012

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Honestly not sure... Looks like a very close call. Mine just passes the jacks for rear audio, so on the extreme4 it might hit the VRM heatsink. You can still rig it in the front of the case as intake if you have room and honestly I always got better temps that way. Rear is worst temps for me. Here's how mine looks mounted in the rear.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


did you put the fan on the outside? i think it would work that way


----------



## bf3player1978

better mounting fan on outside of case?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sean2012*
> 
> did you put the fan on the outside? i think it would work that way


No, that was with fan inside the case. You can put the fan on the outside but look out for little kids, pets, and stupid people. LOL


----------



## bf3player1978

ok how do i make sure my new 3000rpm fan ultra kaze is running at full speed? i disabled smart fan control in bios yet i dont hear this massive fan revving up


----------



## M3TAl

What's the fan connected to? Mobo header? Psu?


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> ok how do i make sure my new 3000rpm fan ultra kaze is running at full speed? i disabled smart fan control in bios yet i dont hear this massive fan revving up


i have the new 3000rpm fan plugged into the kuhler wire off the block..


----------



## M3TAl

Honestly I've never plugged a fan into that and don't think there is anyway to get rpm reading from it. I always used mobo header, fan controller, or direct from psu. But it's a 3000rpm fan... you should definitely hear it moving air and/or spinning/humming.


----------



## bf3player1978

i do not, and cord is to short to plug it into motherboard header. it should be whining up a storm actually


----------



## bf3player1978

only getting 1500rpm tops from this fan. unless thats a diff fan...my 3000rpm fan is plugged into system fan1 on MB


----------



## M3TAl

I wonder if it's actually getting 12v? If it is then maybe you didn't actually end up with a 3000rpm fan?

I've got the 970A-UD3 which is very similar to the 990FXA-UD3. Are you sure all the smart fan stuff is disabled? If you hook the fan direct to psu then it will def be getting 12v and if it not running 3000rpm connected to psu then it's either broken or not a 3000rpm fan.

If you're interested in the effect different radiator positions and fan setups have with the kuhler 620 check out the post I made from earlier today. 8 different rad/fan setups tested.


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I wonder if it's actually getting 12v? If it is then maybe you didn't actually end up with a 3000rpm fan?
> I've got the 970A-UD3 which is very similar to the 990FXA-UD3. Are you sure all the smart fan stuff is disabled? If you hook the fan direct to psu then it will def be getting 12v and if it not running 3000rpm connected to psu then it's either broken or not a 3000rpm fan.
> If you're interested in the effect different radiator positions and fan setups have with the kuhler 620 check out the post I made from earlier today. 8 different rad/fan setups tested.


thanks will check it out


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> ok how do i make sure my new 3000rpm fan ultra kaze is running at full speed? i disabled smart fan control in bios yet i dont hear this massive fan revving up


power it from a molex adapter, none of the pin headers put out enough power to get it going full speed.
I have 2 of them on my 920.


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> power it from a molex adapter, none of the pin headers put out enough power to get it going full speed.
> I have 2 of them on my 920.


U have two of the same fans I have. It's gotta be louder than what I hear. I have a sunbeam 4 way fan controller I can hook it up to.


----------



## bmgjet

Full speed you cant hear some one talking over them.
But they move a ton of air, Can pritty much stick a towel over the back and it can blow it off no problem.

(My PC is mounted in a spare room 6M away from the screen and keyboard/mouse in my room so I cant hear a thing)


----------



## bf3player1978

Noise level not to bad. I hooked it up via psu and a sensor wire going to the power fan header. Now registers 2850rpm.


----------



## bmgjet

Hmm, Mine do 3108rpm from a molex adapter and 2850 from a motherboard header.


----------



## wermad

Just picked up a preowned 920 from another member. Saying goodbye to my lovely Silver Arrow but I need the space







. Can't wait for temps


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Hmm, Mine do 3108rpm from a molex adapter and 2850 from a motherboard header.


2884rpm is the highest rpm i see it going at, is it faulty?


----------



## bf3player1978

btw, i know this is wrong place to ask but,... i cannot get my ram to 1866 using 4 dram slots. only 1600mhz. i can get two slots to work at 1866mhz. so which is better, 16gb of 1600mhz, or 8gb of 1866mhz?


----------



## M3TAl

Do you need all 16gb? Or do you need 1866? Honestly there isn't a huge diff between 1600 and 1866.


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Do you need all 16gb? Or do you need 1866? Honestly there isn't a huge diff between 1600 and 1866.


No I guess I don't need 16gb ram. Can my board oc to 2000 or 2133mhz ram?


----------



## M3TAl

Whit two sticks instead of four it should be able to. But can your memory do 2000/2133?


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Whit two sticks instead of four it should be able to. But can your memory do 2000/2133?


I'm not sure.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Hmm, Mine do 3108rpm from a molex adapter and 2850 from a motherboard header.
> 
> 
> 
> 2884rpm is the highest rpm i see it going at, is it faulty?
Click to expand...

Yeah... I think it should be like 3200 or something like that.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> No I guess I don't need 16gb ram. Can my board oc to 2000 or 2133mhz ram?


I also have the FX-8120 CPU, on AMD's website it says they only support up to 1866mhz memory, so I don't think it would run stable due to the AM3+ CPU!








Mine RAM memory is Crucial 2x4GB, 1866mhz marked/writed on it when I opened up the box, mine is stock clocked down to 1333mhz, but I have manually clocked them up to 1866mhz with auto on the rest (voltage etc) and it gave med 7.7 points in windows instead of 7.5 when they downclocked themselves to 1333mhz !









Give it a go to test 1866mhz overclock, you can try more but it won't proberly be stable








Good Luck!


----------



## hermanndagerman

Pretty sure this must have been covered in this thread way back, but no chance I'm reading through all of this .... which are the best fans for this cooler? Wanting to buy it in September for my new build! Don't want to spend more than £15 per fan tho!


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hermanndagerman*
> 
> Pretty sure this must have been covered in this thread way back, but no chance I'm reading through all of this .... which are the best fans for this cooler? Wanting to buy it in September for my new build! Don't want to spend more than £15 per fan tho!


I have a scythe 3000rpm fan and the antec fan for a push pull config. Works pretty well. I can hit 4.5 ghz but prime95 makes it overheat at @ 1.48v which is what I have to set my vcore at to sustain 4.5 without loosing any cores.

Scythe fan 3000rpm 11.99 on newegg


----------



## Macke93

Ordered 2 set screws for push and pull on my 620 yesterday!








Got a message today that is has been sent!









Going to use Corsair Performance series 120mm 1650´RPM fans I think, going to update you guys when I've recieved the screws and fans and installed it


----------



## M3TAl

Do some before and after temp tests plz!


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Do some before and after temp tests plz!


I sure will!







Before temps is/was around 38 degrees celsius idle (according to my ASUS software that came with my motherboard) or watching the CoreTemp it showed off 17 degrees in general plus/minus 1 degree at lowest idle readings @ desktop and/or google chrome up







, at load when using 100% on all my 8-cores using Prime95 it showed 58 or 59 degrees celsius at CoreTemp, but ASUS software I mentioned before showed 70-71 degrees celsius at maximium









Only tried simple desktop usage right now, I mounted it PnP a moment ago!








Using a Standard NZXT fan that came with my chassi for the second fan and the original antec closest to the metal/chassi/exhaust, using it PnP as exhaust! Before it was single fan, also as exhaust!









A picture for you people who woundering how it looks!







(don't care about the cables, just testing it right know, going to change to other fans very soon !


----------



## MGF Derp

Here y'all go. I am in and my temps are good too right around 0 degrees Celsius with this setup lol


























The old slush bucket for benching, got a Phenom II x4 to 0 degrees just watch the condensation


----------



## Macke93

How to mount an other fan on the 620 radiator instead of the loud antec ? When I disconnected the antec fan from the contact on 620 cable it just became idle 25 degrees higher!? I mounted two other fans on it, but mounted those to my chassis fan contacts (3 pins fans and contacts)









I need to solve this, because I'm going to buy better fans and use, proberly two 120mm PWM fans with 4 pin connecters, help please!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> Here y'all go. I am in and my temps are good too right around 0 degrees Celsius with this setup lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The old slush bucket for benching, got a Phenom II x4 to 0 degrees just watch the condensation


That's sick!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> How to mount an other fan on the 620 radiator instead of the loud antec ? When I disconnected the antec fan from the contact on 620 cable it just became idle 25 degrees higher!? I mounted two other fans on it, but mounted those to my chassis fan contacts (3 pins fans and contacts)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I need to solve this, because I'm going to buy better fans and use, proberly two 120mm PWM fans with 4 pin connecters, help please!


I don't understand what you mean exactly. You disconnected the antec fan meaning there was no fans on the radiator at all, causing 25C higher temps? Then you had 2 fans on the radiator connected to the motherboard headers? What is wrong with having the fans connected to motherboard headers? I don't understand.

EDIT: If you want to run 2 PWM fans from a PWM header on your motherboard then buy a Y-Splitter PWM cable and connect it the the CPU_OPT header on your M5A99FX board. PWM Y-Splitter Note that the headers support MAX 1Amp or 12watts.


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's sick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand what you mean exactly. You disconnected the antec fan meaning there was no fans on the radiator at all, causing 25C higher temps? Then you had 2 fans on the radiator connected to the motherboard headers? What is wrong with having the fans connected to motherboard headers? I don't understand.
> EDIT: If you want to run 2 PWM fans from a PWM header on your motherboard then buy a Y-Splitter PWM cable and connect it the the CPU_OPT header on your M5A99FX board. PWM Y-Splitter Note that the headers support MAX 1Amp or 12watts.


Thanks. And do what is said to run two pwm fans off the same header. If you mean how do you mount you can either take two screws from the current Antec and mount each new fan with two screws or buy four more screws like the ones supplied with the Antec and mount the second fan with those. Believe the screws are something like 6-32 x 30 or something.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's sick!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I don't understand what you mean exactly. You disconnected the antec fan meaning there was no fans on the radiator at all, causing 25C higher temps? Then you had 2 fans on the radiator connected to the motherboard headers? What is wrong with having the fans connected to motherboard headers? I don't understand.
> EDIT: If you want to run 2 PWM fans from a PWM header on your motherboard then buy a Y-Splitter PWM cable and connect it the the CPU_OPT header on your M5A99FX board. PWM Y-Splitter Note that the headers support MAX 1Amp or 12watts.


Thanks!







I experienced the temps got much higher when i disconnected the antec fan from the 620 system and had installed two other fans PnP, but those got power from my case 3 pins headers/contacts, it was like the 620 dysfunction when I just disconnected the antec fan from it









I'm sure you know what little miss I surely did, I thought it would run as before, but it didn't, so when I just connected the antec fan again to 620 contact, It runs as smoothly as usual (also mounted a second fan at that time too)!









I have three 4-pin connecters on my motherboard unused and even a CPU_OPT 4 pin unused, so I have headers enough when I buy new fans








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> Thanks. And do what is said to run two pwm fans off the same header. If you mean how do you mount you can either take two screws from the current Antec and mount each new fan with two screws or buy four more screws like the ones supplied with the Antec and mount the second fan with those. Believe the screws are something like 6-32 x 30 or something.


The screws I got by mail service yesterday, it's 6-32 x 30mm screws exaxtly as you say








Sorry for being a little bit dumb or stupid with my questions/wonderings, but I'm a little bit new to some things


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> The screws I got by mail service yesterday, it's 6-32 x 30mm screws exaxtly as you say
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry for being a little bit dumb or stupid with my questions/wonderings, but I'm a little bit new to some things


No such thing as a dumb question. Glad it is going to work out for you. And if you need anymore help, just ask. Thats what OCN is for. ps: Go me for remembering there 6-32 x 30 without looking it up lol.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> No such thing as a dumb question. Glad it is going to work out for you. And if you need anymore help, just ask. Thats what OCN is for. ps: Go me for remembering there 6-32 x 30 without looking it up lol.


Thanks man !







You guys are very helpful even when I sometimes doesnt say it with correct english, but I do my best !








Cred for your memory, haha! (I just take photos of the screw package, so I will remember it LOL







)

Next up for my build is new graphics card! Going to be some of the GTX 670 4GB proberly, but I'll proberly post a picture when it's time!


----------



## ppeewang

Hi All,

If anyone is interested, I found the 920 for $74.99 , free shipping over here

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60587&vpn=KUHLER%20H20920&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1371

Have to use code 60587-1371 to get 4.99 off.

I have a question, how do the pump and the radiator hoses have to be oriented? My thinking is to have the pump tubes off the cooler facing down toward the bottom of the case and have the radiator tubes oriented to the top of the case and have them come down and loop toward the cooler from the bottom, that way the pump will not be working against gravity on the CPU side. Or is it better to have the the radiator oriented so that those tubes are also toward the bottom of the case ? Thoughts?

also , I am installing this in the Antec Lanboy Air which by design is supposed to have all the fans blowing are inward into the case to create negative pressure. Should I do a push pull out with this cooler and keep everything else blowing inward?


----------



## bf3player1978

Hey guys sorry for the noob question, how do u get the validation of your club to show up on your signature?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ppeewang*
> 
> Hi All,
> If anyone is interested, I found the 920 for $74.99 , free shipping over here
> http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=60587&vpn=KUHLER%20H20920&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1371
> Have to use code 60587-1371 to get 4.99 off.
> I have a question, how do the pump and the radiator hoses have to be oriented? My thinking is to have the pump tubes off the cooler facing down toward the bottom of the case and have the radiator tubes oriented to the top of the case and have them come down and loop toward the cooler from the bottom, that way the pump will not be working against gravity on the CPU side. Or is it better to have the the radiator oriented so that those tubes are also toward the bottom of the case ? Thoughts?
> also , I am installing this in the Antec Lanboy Air which by design is supposed to have all the fans blowing are inward into the case to create negative pressure. Should I do a push pull out with this cooler and keep everything else blowing inward?


Not sure if having the hoses in different positions has any affect on cooling performance or the pump. I'm also not aware of any testing that indicates this. I put my hoses in whatever position makes them easiest to work with inside my case.

Having all intake fans would be positive pressure. If you have more CFM exhausting than intaking you have negative pressure.


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Hey guys sorry for the noob question, how do u get the validation of your club to show up on your signature?





PHP:


Snorkle.gifAntec Kühler H2O 620/920 ClubSnorkle.gif

Copy that then go to your "My Profile" on the top of the OCN website. Once in your profile scroll to your signature and click edit signature and then paste the previously copied material into your signature and save,


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> 
> 
> PHP:
> 
> 
> Snorkle.gifAntec Kühler H2O 620/920 ClubSnorkle.gif
> 
> Copy that then go to your "My Profile" on the top of the OCN website. Once in your profile scroll to your signature and click edit signature and then paste the previously copied material into your signature and save,


thanks but it did not work


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> thanks but it did not work


Code:



Code:


[CENTER]:Snorkle:[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club][B]Antec Kühler H2O 620/920[/B][/URL]:Snorkle:[/CENTER]

Try copying that into your signature.


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> [CENTER]:Snorkle:[URL=http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-club][B]Antec Kühler H2O 620/920[/B][/URL]:Snorkle:[/CENTER]
> 
> Try copying that into your signature.


thanks that one worked


----------



## dwjp90

Has anybody successfully mounted this on a 775?

It has 0 ability to do so anymore from what I can tell and the instructions have no details about 775.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwjp90*
> 
> Has anybody successfully mounted this on a 775?
> It has 0 ability to do so anymore from what I can tell and the instructions have no details about 775.


Had it mounted a couple a weeks ago before a changed into AM3+, it were really noob mounting, it weren't even sittin 100% tight







But search youtube for installing video, just do pretty the same even if the video shows off a different socket


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dwjp90*
> 
> Has anybody successfully mounted this on a 775?
> It has 0 ability to do so anymore from what I can tell and the instructions have no details about 775.


As far as I know the instructions show you how to mount to 775 and it definatly has the ability. Use the same retaining clip setup as 1155/1156. Where the screws are nearer the mounting ring.


----------



## bob_711

what you guys think of my modded 620 i have added a drive bay reservoir and lapped the cpu block. temperatures are staying quite a few degrees cooler since i did this and at 4.2ghz on my fx 8120 didnt go over 50 on prime the hour i had it on is that good?


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob_711*
> 
> what you guys think of my modded 620 i have added a drive bay reservoir and lapped the cpu block. temperatures are staying quite a few degrees cooler since i did this and at 4.2ghz on my fx 8120 didnt go over 50 on prime the hour i had it on is that good?
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


I like it. Although it seems you have really long tubing. Is the pump holding up ok?


----------



## soundx98

The newer units (black mounts not blue and GREEN) need the 775 kit.
You'll need to call ANTEC CUSTOMER SUPPORT BUT YOU WILL get them IN 3 DAYS.

Customer Support
If you have any question that relates to the technical aspects of a product's usage, including pre-sales support, please use our online form.
Phone: 1-800-222-6832
Time: Monday through Friday, 9:00am to 4:30pm Pacific Standard Time


----------



## bob_711

appears to be fine from the couple of days i've been using it but yeah i wasn't really sure on the length so just made them long, thought they were better longer than to short i'm gona cut them shorter in a couple of days when i get time


----------



## Andrei

hello. I have been using my antec 620 kuhler since like a year right now, and i am very satisfied with it, after seeing so many reviews about it and 920 it was obvious that it was the right choice. ( back then my budget wasn't very high so i went for the 620 model). Here's my dilemma : i have installed it into a cooler master CM (690 first version), on the back side of it. (if necessary additional photos will be attached ) but the space between the case and the desk is very small about 5-10 cm. So i was wondering, if i mount the radiator on top of the case will this affect the pump ? or smth? Note: the radiator is installed in a push/pull system. Any suggestions are welcomed.


----------



## ruarcs30

How does it work if you put the radiator in water whitout ice? Room temprature water..


----------



## Andrei

By the simple fact that cold air is much heavier than warm air, so in the bottom i have cold air, in the top warm air. but the disperse area for the radiator in the back is too small, and i think that by having in the top position the warm air will go much faster allowing the new ( cold ) air to enter the case via the bottom part of the case.


----------



## quantum2384

First off, this is my first post so let's be nice =p. I came across a Kuhler 620 for 30$ in the last few weeks and it doesn't fit nicely in my Thermaltake MSi case and I had to top mount the radiotor slightly askewed.I have holes in the back of my case for tubing and wanted to mount the radiator on the outside back of the case. I know you can take the barbs off from the waterblock pump, but before I go ahead and do that I was wondering 1. will the coolant leak no matter what? If I position the barbs so they point up and hold pressure on them will I loose any coolant, and if I do loose a little bit does it matter? Or should I just empty the whole thing. But then how do I refill it?! And is it difficult to refill. If I do this option I'm thinking about adding a resevoir and changing the tubing. I've never played with watercooling before, but have been doing some reading on it.

If I do go for the resevoir option is there a recommended one and what size tubing do I go with??

Thank you in advance for any help/comments/hazing of noobs


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrei*
> 
> hello. I have been using my antec 620 kuhler since like a year right now, and i am very satisfied with it, after seeing so many reviews about it and 920 it was obvious that it was the right choice. ( back then my budget wasn't very high so i went for the 620 model). Here's my dilemma : i have installed it into a cooler master CM (690 first version), on the back side of it. (if necessary additional photos will be attached ) but the space between the case and the desk is very small about 5-10 cm. So i was wondering, if i mount the radiator on top of the case will this affect the pump ? or smth? Note: the radiator is installed in a push/pull system. Any suggestions are welcomed.


I have my radiator on the back, fans as intake not exhaust. Two120mm fans as intake and two more on top as exhaust. Works well in my cooler master storm enforcer case.


----------



## Hardwarepb

I'm pleased with the performance of my Antec 920 with both Vortex cougar, Thermal past I'm using is a simple cooler master, I'll buy a better and change to see the difference ....


----------



## M3TAl

What's the temp difference between the two cougars and stock Antec fans? And how much more quite is the 2 cougar fans? I've been looking at getting 2 of the 1500rpm PWM as well for my 620. I HATE NOISE! Antec fan is too loud.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Andrei*
> 
> hello. I have been using my antec 620 kuhler since like a year right now, and i am very satisfied with it, after seeing so many reviews about it and 920 it was obvious that it was the right choice. ( back then my budget wasn't very high so i went for the 620 model). Here's my dilemma : i have installed it into a cooler master CM (690 first version), on the back side of it. (if necessary additional photos will be attached ) but the space between the case and the desk is very small about 5-10 cm. So i was wondering, if i mount the radiator on top of the case will this affect the pump ? or smth? Note: the radiator is installed in a push/pull system. Any suggestions are welcomed.


I used to have a cooler master centurion 590 (the inside is very similar to original 690). Putting the radiator in the front as intake got me the best temps and least noise (with 2x140mm top exhasut which should take the heat from the radiator out). Also I tested many fan setups and positions in my new 690 II Advanced B&W here .

This is how it looked in my old centurion 590 case:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







This is in new 690 II case:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I used to have a cooler master centurion 590 (the inside is very similar to original 690). Putting the radiator in the front as intake got me the best temps and least noise (with 2x140mm top exhasut which should take the heat from the radiator out). Also I tested many fan setups and positions in my new 690 II Advanced B&W here .
> This is how it looked in my old centurion 590 case:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is in new 690 II case:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Why wouldnt you rear mount the 620 with the rear fans being intake and the top still exhaust? Seems like less work and same effect versus current setup?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> Why wouldnt you rear mount the 620 with the rear fans being intake and the top still exhaust? Seems like less work and same effect versus current setup?


Two main reasons.

First the temps were worse (I tested this position. It was result #6 although I colored the arrow red instead of blue oops). I'm guessing it was recycling hot air from my psu since heat rises... and psu exhausts down at bottom.

Second is that intake from rear means 0 dust filtration for the radiator. Sure having dust filtration doesn't get ALL the dust but it does greatly reduce it. I would prefer to not have to clean the radiator as often and not get dusty so fast.

Edit: Also for whatever reason it is quietest as front intake. I assume that's because of the shoe laces... No vibration going on in the case from the fan etc...


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bob_711*
> 
> what you guys think of my modded 620 i have added a drive bay reservoir and lapped the cpu block. temperatures are staying quite a few degrees cooler since i did this and at 4.2ghz on my fx 8120 didnt go over 50 on prime the hour i had it on is that good?
> *Sick mod on 620*


Can everybody do this???! You make me very jelous with thos themps and the loop


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Can everybody do this???! You make me very jelous with thos themps and the loop


Yes any one can mod a 620 that way. You will need a reservoir though and you will void any warranty you have. Also there is no way to go back to stock or not have to use a reservoir. All you do is cut the stock tubes off and replace with 1/4" tubing and get a reservoir with 1/4" fittings. (Correct me if its not 1/4" I haven't had a modded Asetek in a couple of months). Then place everything in the case and cut tubing to length. You will need zip ties/worm drive clamps/ or some other kind of clamp to secure the new tubing to the fittings and have it not leak. Fill the res and run the pump until the loop is full of water and all the air is out (Do not fill the loop with the system running make sure the cpu is not running while the loop is being filled) and you are good to go.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> Yes any one can mod a 620 that way. You will need a reservoir though and you will void any warranty you have. Also there is no way to go back to stock or not have to use a reservoir. All you do is cut the stock tubes off and replace with 1/4" tubing and get a reservoir with 1/4" fittings. (Correct me if its not 1/4" I haven't had a modded Asetek in a couple of months). Then place everything in the case and cut tubing to length. You will need zip ties/worm drive clamps/ or some other kind of clamp to secure the new tubing to the fittings and have it not leak. Fill the res and run the pump until the loop is full of water and all the air is out (Do not fill the loop with the system running make sure the cpu is not running while the loop is being filled) and you are good to go.


Thank you big time!









I've learned some things about custom watercooling in the last weeks while browsing the web, but can you give me a number (price) that it would cost to do that mod?


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Thank you big time!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've learned some things about custom watercooling in the last weeks while browsing the web, but can you give me a number (price) that it would cost to do that mod?


I dont know prices of things in Sweden but it can be really inexpensive. Besides a Kuhler 620/920 H40/50/60/70/80/100 all you need is some pvc/tygon tubing or water cooling tubing either works and pvc/tygon can be picked up for cheap at a local hardware store usually. Also need a reservoir, most mods feature the Swiftech Micro Res but any reservoir will do and they usually go for $10-$15 used in the States but check a watercooling provider in your country. The two 1/4" fittings should run you more then $3-$4 a piece again check your local listings. Add a gallon of distilled water from the super market and your done. Total should be ~$25 USD if that. Depends on how cheap you can get things and the cost of items in your country etc. Again I believe they are 1/4" fittings but you may want to Google that. Or if you dont want to pay for a reservoir you can make your self one just be creative.







This is my mod'd H70 from a few months ago, Version 1 anyway. Version 2 uses a EK Multi Reservoir and is still happily pumping away the heat in my friends PC


----------



## Rickles

The issue I had with my h60 mod was that the block was copper and the rads were all aluminium. Granted it might be different with the antec stuff, but at a similar price point I would doubt it. That is why the corsair AIOs aren't filled with just distilled, you need an anti-corrosive or you are just creating a perfect environment for galvanic corrosion.

my


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rickles*
> 
> The issue I had with my h60 mod was that the block was copper and the rads were all aluminium. Granted it might be different with the antec stuff, but at a similar price point I would doubt it. That is why the corsair AIOs aren't filled with just distilled, you need an anti-corrosive or you are just creating a perfect environment for galvanic corrosion.
> my


You make a good point which I forgot. I ran my mod with Ethelyne Glycol. Whic is what the Antec and Corsairs come with from the factory. You can used distilled + 10ppm Ethelyne Glycol or Distilled + a biocide or Distilled+ antifreeze. This will help prevent galvanic corrosion. Nice save Rickles


----------



## bf3player1978

Ok I have a h20, but was wanting a 920.... Can anyone tell me if there will be a significant temp drop between the two?


----------



## MGF Derp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Ok I have a h20, but was wanting a 920.... Can anyone tell me if there will be a significant temp drop between the two?


Looks to be around 5 degrees C.



http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/h2o-h80-h100-benchmark-overclocking,3084-8.html


----------



## InsideJob

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> I dont know prices of things in Sweden but it can be really inexpensive. Besides a Kuhler 620/920 H40/50/60/70/80/100 all you need is some pvc/tygon tubing or water cooling tubing either works and pvc/tygon can be picked up for cheap at a local hardware store usually. Also need a reservoir, most mods feature the Swiftech Micro Res but any reservoir will do and they usually go for $10-$15 used in the States but check a watercooling provider in your country. The two 1/4" fittings should run you more then $3-$4 a piece again check your local listings. Add a gallon of distilled water from the super market and your done. Total should be ~$25 USD if that. Depends on how cheap you can get things and the cost of items in your country etc. Again I believe they are 1/4" fittings but you may want to Google that. Or if you dont want to pay for a reservoir you can make your self one just be creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my mod'd H70 from a few months ago, Version 1 anyway. Version 2 uses a EK Multi Reservoir and is still happily pumping away the heat in my friends PC






A NOS energy drink bottle reservoir







haha
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> Ok I have a h20, but was wanting a 920.... Can anyone tell me if there will be a significant temp drop between the two?


I assume you mean you have a 620 and wanted a 920?
From research not experience you would see a 5-10 degree drop in temps from the 920's bigger rad and more powerful fan.
From experience, for anyone overclocking more then just a little bit the only way to go would be the 920 as the 620 just doesn't have the performance to dissipate the heat of a highly overclocked chip. I was not able to up my OC from the settings I had under a CM hyper 212 when I upgraded to the 620. If anything, to be honest, the hyper 212 may have performed slightly better...









If I could go back I would have waited to toss out the extra bit of cash on the 920, but now I have a 620 to mod for my GPU if I get a 920. However I feel like custom loop will be the next step I take into liquid.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> I dont know prices of things in Sweden but it can be really inexpensive. Besides a Kuhler 620/920 H40/50/60/70/80/100 all you need is some pvc/tygon tubing or water cooling tubing either works and pvc/tygon can be picked up for cheap at a local hardware store usually. Also need a reservoir, most mods feature the Swiftech Micro Res but any reservoir will do and they usually go for $10-$15 used in the States but check a watercooling provider in your country. The two 1/4" fittings should run you more then $3-$4 a piece again check your local listings. Add a gallon of distilled water from the super market and your done. Total should be ~$25 USD if that. Depends on how cheap you can get things and the cost of items in your country etc. Again I believe they are 1/4" fittings but you may want to Google that. Or if you dont want to pay for a reservoir you can make your self one just be creative.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is my mod'd H70 from a few months ago, Version 1 anyway. Version 2 uses a EK Multi Reservoir and is still happily pumping away the heat in my friends PC
> *Two pictures*


Prices in sweden are in general a little bit higher compared to the US!








Thanks again for a really helpful answer, If I decide to test it out this idea, I will post here about it, but in either case I learned a very intresting thing !








Doesnt sound too expensive, thanks


----------



## bmgjet

Glycol is a must or the block will rust/blockup internally.
Also dont go too large with pipes and res or the pump will burn out.

Difference between 620 and 920 isnt worth upgrading.

Lap the 620 block and stick 2 high flow fans on the radiator and it performs better then a stock 920.
Sticking the same fans on the 920 and lapping it made 3C difference on my 8120 @ 5ghz. So if I was to do it again would of just stuck with the 620.

Also one thing to note is the 620 radiator didnt block up with dust as fast.
The size of the radiator doesnt really matter since the cooler is limited by its weak pump and small coolant pipes compared to a proper water kit.


----------



## RyanBrantley

I installed my 920 on my 3930K today at 4.5Ghz and temps are at 85c under load (FAH). By removing the stock fans and installing 2 corsair SP120 fans I got the temps down to 80c, but I would like to see them lower than that. Any reccomendations on fans greater than 1800rpm that are still quiet? One SP120 with the Stock Antec fan made a horrible noise.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Glycol is a must or the block will rust/blockup internally.
> Also dont go too large with pipes and res or the pump will burn out.
> Difference between 620 and 920 isnt worth upgrading.
> Lap the 620 block and stick 2 high flow fans on the radiator and it performs better then a stock 920.
> Sticking the same fans on the 920 and lapping it made 3C difference on my 8120 @ 5ghz. So if I was to do it again would of just stuck with the 620.
> Also one thing to note is the 620 radiator didnt block up with dust as fast.
> The size of the radiator doesnt really matter since the cooler is limited by its weak pump and small coolant pipes compared to a proper water kit.


But was the cpu lapped too?


----------



## oxcon

Add...

Using a 620 along with a dwoods bracket to cool my GTX 560 TI 448.


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> But was the cpu lapped too?


No, Havnt lapped the cpu since ill probably sell it.


----------



## M3TAl

Well, I've been looking into what temps people have been getting with lapped antecs and corsairs and it is usually 2-3C. But it seems the cpu is never lapped. I still believe the result would be better if they were both lapped. I'm just curious how much better? Maybe only another 2-3C? Maybe more? But if both are lapped then in total that's possibly 4-6C which isn't bad.


----------



## bmgjet

Be less from lapping the cpu. 1-2C at the most.
The CPU is already very flat and the only gains are from removing the coating and exposing the bare metal.
Where the block is very convex and this can easily been seen with a straight edge and even to the point where you can see it not touching all the chip when its mounted.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Be less from lapping the cpu. 1-2C at the most.
> The CPU is already very flat and the only gains are from removing the coating and exposing the bare metal.
> Where the block is very convex and this can easily been seen with a straight edge and even to the point where you can see it not touching all the chip when its mounted.


Well I don't know what cpu you're using but the Phenom II's are typically pretty concave. Big dip in the middle with the edges being much higher.


----------



## Macke93

Mine CPU reaches 67 degrees celsius when I use Prime95 stress test, how can reduce those temps? :O
Already having PnP on my 620, can i change the cooling paste on both CPU and 620 cooler to the same to lower it? Any advice am I thankful of


----------



## RyanBrantley

My 3930k is still reaching 85C under load.....

Probably going to change paste and lap the cooler in hope that it will cool better but I'm thinking it may be time to get a larger unit or a full XSPC or EK kit...


----------



## Krusher33

The 620's do need a bit of lapping. Mine did anyways.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Mine CPU reaches 67 degrees celsius when I use Prime95 stress test, how can reduce those temps? :O
> Already having PnP on my 620, *can i change the cooling paste on both CPU and 620 cooler to the same to lower it*? Any advice am I thankful of


You mean there are two different TIM's on there??? There should only be a single type of TIM.


----------



## Krusher33

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Mine CPU reaches 67 degrees celsius when I use Prime95 stress test, how can reduce those temps? :O
> Already having PnP on my 620, *can i change the cooling paste on both CPU and 620 cooler to the same to lower it*? Any advice am I thankful of
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You mean there are two different TIM's on there??? There should only be a single type of TIM.
Click to expand...

I did not catch that, lol...

And yeah... there can only be... ONE.


----------



## reaver83

Quote:



> Originally Posted by *MGF Derp*
> 
> You make a good point which I forgot. I ran my mod with Ethelyne Glycol. Whic is what the Antec and Corsairs come with from the factory. You can used distilled + 10ppm Ethelyne Glycol or Distilled + a biocide or Distilled+ antifreeze. This will help prevent galvanic corrosion. Nice save Rickles


My 2 cents... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antifreeze#Ethylene_glycol The Wiki on Automotive non-toxic free Antifreeze is still Ethelyne Glycol, so don't go buy expensive crap, just go to the pit-**** of your radiator of your car and drain a 20oz bottle of antifreeze out of it and your good







The Green antifreeze lasts longer, the Orange is only rated for 100K mi on a car, so open the cap (with car cold) and check which one you have. The disipation of antifreeze is pretty thick, like a 20oz bottle would probably disipate strong with 1qt water.


----------



## ConradTP

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> The 620's do need a bit of lapping. Mine did anyways.


When I look at the TIM when i remove the pump, seems the middle of the CPU is the only point of contact.
Mine needs some lapping too IMO as the base looks like this.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Posting this here, as my Intel liquid cooler is also made by Asetek.

*I could really use some help*, as I can't decide if my cooler(s) is defective or if I need to try another brand (Corsair H80, for example), or if I should just stick to air cooling with my set up.

I've been having a problem where the pump / heatsink part of my cooler makes a constant buzzing noise. The movement of the liquid through the radiator is also not silent but sounds rather like a high-speed fan air movement. It's the loudest thing in my case altogether. As soon as I unplug the cooler, my case is near-silent.

I have a thread here with a description:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1297852/defective-or-normal-intel-liquid-cooling-thermal-solution-closed-loop

_Set up:_

mini ITX motherboard oriented horizontally
radiator + fan oriented horizontally (tried vertically as well - no difference in sound)
_Things I've tried so far without any positive results:_


Flipping the case on its side such that the heatsink medallion part is vertical
Changing the orientation of the radiator (horizontal to vertical)
Plugging the power cord from the cooler directly to a PSU molex connector (through a Noctua low-noise adapter)
Touching the case in various spots to see if the buzzing is caused by vibration (as the cooler bracket could be resonating against the power supply cage the motherboard sits on)

_Things that seem to help a little (but in no way solve the buzzing part):_

Plugging the radiator fan directly to the heatsink seems to cause additional noise issues. I now am using a Noctua PWM fan splitter, plugging one end to the heatsink/radiator and the other to the PWM heatsink fan.

P.S.: I'm also having some actual cooling issues. Idle temps are not very low, even if I keep my i7 3770 at stock boost and change it to per core, AND undervolt a little. Idle temps are in high 30s. This is at high cooling setting.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> Posting this here, as my Intel liquid cooler is also made by Asetek.
> *I could really use some help*, as I can't decide if my cooler(s) is defective or if I need to try another brand (Corsair H80, for example), or if I should just stick to air cooling with my set up.
> I've been having a problem where the pump / heatsink part of my cooler makes a constant buzzing noise. The movement of the liquid through the radiator is also not silent but sounds rather like a high-speed fan air movement. It's the loudest thing in my case altogether. As soon as I unplug the cooler, my case is near-silent.
> I have a thread here with a description:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1297852/defective-or-normal-intel-liquid-cooling-thermal-solution-closed-loop
> _Set up:_
> 
> mini ITX motherboard oriented horizontally
> radiator + fan oriented horizontally (tried vertically as well - no difference in sound)
> _Things I've tried so far without any positive results:_
> 
> Flipping the case on its side such that the heatsink medallion part is vertical
> Changing the orientation of the radiator (horizontal to vertical)
> Plugging the power cord from the cooler directly to a PSU molex connector (through a Noctua low-noise adapter)
> Touching the case in various spots to see if the buzzing is caused by vibration (as the cooler bracket could be resonating against the power supply cage the motherboard sits on)
> _Things that seem to help a little (but in no way solve the buzzing part):_
> Plugging the radiator fan directly to the heatsink seems to cause additional noise issues. I now am using a Noctua PWM fan splitter, plugging one end to the heatsink/radiator and the other to the PWM heatsink fan.
> P.S.: I'm also having some actual cooling issues. Idle temps are not very low, even if I keep my i7 3770 at stock boost and change it to per core, AND undervolt a little. Idle temps are in high 30s. This is at high cooling setting.


It seriously sounds as though you just have a defective product. How long have you owned it? I'd return it for another one and I doubt you will experience the same problem. Hope you get it resolved soon!


----------



## ElevenEleven

I have already replaced it. It's from Amazon, so I called them and said it was behaving oddly, so they sent me a replacement (extremely quickly). I am on no. 2 right now, still with buzzing and audible whooshing high-fan-speed-like sound. I just can't decide if I should walk to Microcenter and try to get another closed-loop cooler, or it's my set up, and I"m going to have a problem with those no matter what (kind of doubt it). I'm so frustrated, because I"ve spent a few hours tweaking positions, fans, and various splitters and low-noise adapters, but just can't seem to get it to work properly. The cooler is slow to cool off too (may be a general property of these closed-loop coolers) after a high load.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I have already replaced it. It's from Amazon, so I called them and said it was behaving oddly, so they sent me a replacement (extremely quickly). I am on no. 2 right now, still with buzzing and audible whooshing high-fan-speed-like sound. I just can't decide if I should walk to Microcenter and try to get another closed-loop cooler, or it's my set up, and I"m going to have a problem with those no matter what (kind of doubt it). I'm so frustrated, because I"ve spent a few hours tweaking positions, fans, and various splitters and low-noise adapters, but just can't seem to get it to work properly. The cooler is slow to cool off too (may be a general property of these closed-loop coolers) after a high load.


I really don't think it's your setup. These things typically operate just fine no matter how they are oriented. I suppose intel/asetek bunked something up with that model.


----------



## oxcon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> I have already replaced it. It's from Amazon, so I called them and said it was behaving oddly, so they sent me a replacement (extremely quickly). I am on no. 2 right now, still with buzzing and audible whooshing high-fan-speed-like sound. I just can't decide if I should walk to Microcenter and try to get another closed-loop cooler, or it's my set up, and I"m going to have a problem with those no matter what (kind of doubt it). I'm so frustrated, because I"ve spent a few hours tweaking positions, fans, and various splitters and low-noise adapters, but just can't seem to get it to work properly. The cooler is slow to cool off too (may be a general property of these closed-loop coolers) after a high load.


With my H100 I had to make passthrough cable. The pump itself ran at too high of an rpm and make kind of a grinding noise. You can see instructions in this thread...

http://www.overclock.net/t/1236923/corsair-h100-h80-h60-noise-grinding-pump-fix-official-corsair-response

This may or may not help since it's not a Corsair, but it's pretty inexpensive and worth a try.


----------



## ElevenEleven

It's not really a rattling or grinding noise though. It's more like a high frequency high-voltage wire kind of sound + a bassy hum. I've tried going through a low-noise adapter (7V I think) - no change. I'm afraid I'll just have to scrap the idea and go for a Corsair H80 or an air cooler, but i really liked the blue Intel logo in my mini set up =/


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You mean there are two different TIM's on there??? There should only be a single type of TIM.


Sorry for being a true beginner







I havn't change any cooling paste, so it one bronze colored on the 620 and one grey on the CPU (AMD FX), I ordered a Noctua NT-H1 cooling paste and going to remove the stock paste(s) on both and replace it with noctua only







Can't really do worse than me haha







Atleast I'm learning something








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> I did not catch that, lol...
> And yeah... there can only be... ONE.


I have TWO different now







but the cooling isn't at it's peak really







I'm going to change it to Noctua NT-H1 on both proberly in next week!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> It's not really a rattling or grinding noise though. It's more like a high frequency high-voltage wire kind of sound + a bassy hum. I've tried going through a low-noise adapter (7V I think) - no change. I'm afraid I'll just have to scrap the idea and go for a Corsair H80 or an air cooler, but i really liked the blue Intel logo in my mini set up =/


Hey ElevenEleven, have you tried hooking the pump directly to psu without 7V adapter?? You want the pump to run 12V and never lower than that. Also make sure any CPU fan control stuff in bios is disabled. Again you want 12V to the pump. On Gigabyte its called CPU Smart Fan not sure about ASRock.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ElevenEleven*
> 
> It's not really a rattling or grinding noise though. It's more like a high frequency high-voltage wire kind of sound + a bassy hum. I've tried going through a low-noise adapter (7V I think) - no change. I'm afraid I'll just have to scrap the idea and go for a Corsair H80 or an air cooler, but i really liked the blue Intel logo in my mini set up =/


Hey ElevenEleven, have you tried hooking the pump directly to psu without 7V adapter?? You want the pump to run 12V and never lower than that. Also make sure any CPU fan control stuff in bios is disabled. Again you want 12V to the pump. On Gigabyte its called CPU Smart Fan not sure about ASRock.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Sorry for being a true beginner
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I havn't change any cooling paste, so it one bronze colored on the 620 and one grey on the CPU (AMD FX), I ordered a Noctua NT-H1 cooling paste and going to remove the stock paste(s) on both and replace it with noctua only
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Can't really do worse than me haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Atleast I'm learning something
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have TWO different now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> but the cooling isn't at it's peak really
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going to change it to Noctua NT-H1 on both proberly in next week!


Make sure you properly clean the TIM's off CPU and the 620 block. 70%-90% rubbing alcohol (isopropyl or similar) and qtips do the trick.


----------



## ElevenEleven

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Hey ElevenEleven, have you tried hooking the pump directly to psu without 7V adapter?? You want the pump to run 12V and never lower than that. Also make sure any CPU fan control stuff in bios is disabled. Again you want 12V to the pump. On Gigabyte its called CPU Smart Fan not sure about ASRock.


Yes, I have. No difference. I have read this about the Kuhler design, but the Intel one specifically requires being plugged into the motherboard CPU fan socket (and the fan is plugged into the pump). I have tried all variations with no impact on the high noise level. It's running the pump off the PSU now (no adapters) and the fan is plugged into the motherboard at the moment, and my case still sounds like a wind tunnel.


----------



## M3TAl

Hmmm it's just weird that both exhibit the same behavior. You would think it's rare for both to have the same exact problem and that would lead one to believe something about your system is causing it. But I've never heard about anyone with a 620/920 having a problem like yours.

Is there any tech support you can call? Does Asetek even have support direct for customers? Thought they are only for like OEM's and things. Maybe you could PM Asetek_Stu. He could know something we don't...


----------



## ElevenEleven

Thank you for the suggestion - I have sent him a PM and will hope for a reply (before I send my current Intel cooler back for a refund - in case it could actually be "fixed").


----------



## oldcompgeek

60587 Antec Kuhler H2O 920 Liquid CPU Cooling System LGA775/1155/1156/1366 AM2/AM3/AM3/FM1+ 2400RPM 1 $69.99 $69.99
SUBTOTAL: $69.99
No Sales Tax (Outside California) $0.00
No GST - Outside Canada $0.00
TOTAL: $69.99

I just bought one of these on the 1st and want to prep my Sentey Arvina case for the install and have a couple of questions if someone has the time... First, can I mount this in my 5 1/4 drive bay under my dvd burner? I would just have to mount the fans so they're blowing from the front of the case - in - and have the tubes facing toword the mobo. Second, I don't have an available usb mobo header for the 920's electronics... Is there any way to adapt it to my open 1394 header? Or any way to run a "y" off one of my usb2's to give me another port? Or adapt my open 3.0 port to 2.0? Any suggestions would be appreciated. I have a MSI 990fxa-gd-80 mobo. My only other option would be to buy and install a pci-e card with an internal port. I just thought that my case would look cleaner without the rad cluttering up the back end and it may run cooler when drawing in the cooler air from the front. Thanks!


----------



## M3TAl

Yes you can mount as front intake (preferably) in the drive bays. This is how mine was setup in my old case and currently in my new case. Was also the quietest and best temps for me.

As for the USB header I don't know...


----------



## stickg1

I walked into a best buy about a month ago, the 620 was on sale for $45. I chuckled a bit And checked new egg on my phone just to be sure i wasn't mistaken. I bought one right away and love it. I put two silenx 120mm 74cfm/15dB fans in push pull. The result is a very quiet and cool system. It's on my i5-2500k clocked to 4.3ghz @ 1.27v. Temps around 52c average after an hour prime 95. Ambient 73f.

I love my kuhler!


----------



## Shpongle

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I walked into a best buy about a month ago, the 620 was on sale for $45. I chuckled a bit And checked new egg on my phone just to be sure i wasn't mistaken. I bought one right away and love it. I put two silenx 120mm 74cfm/15dB fans in push pull. The result is a very quiet and cool system. It's on my i5-2500k clocked to 4.3ghz @ 1.27v. Temps around 52c average after an hour prime 95. Ambient 73f.
> I love my kuhler!


Lol, this is exactly what happened to me when I bought my 620. I thought it was an opened box/mislabel but nope. Best Buy finally put a good price on something.


----------



## stickg1

This is what I'm working with!










I cut some holes in the motherboard tray of my Antec 300 to make cable management a little neater. Airflow is pretty good, I run 2 LED Thermaltakes up front as intake at about 1500RPM, 140mm CM exhaust up top, and two Silenx 120mm at 1400RPM push/pull exhausting out the back on my Kuhler 620 radiator. It's super quiet but very effective. The push/pull definately helps, I did a little experiment last week using these fans, one my itself, and then two in push/pull. With one fan in Antec's recommended configuration (fan inbetween the case and radiator, exhausting out the back) My temps were as follows:

Core 1: 56C
Core 2: 56C
Core 3: 61C
Core 4: 62C

After reinstalling an identical push fan, the temps immediately plummeted:
Core 1: 48C
Core 2: 49C
Core 3: 53C
Core 4: 54C

This is i5-2500K 4.3GHz 1.28v running [email protected] for 1 hour.


----------



## sunset1

I saw that and i couldnt belive it.


----------



## grunion

620 or 920 for an FX-6100?


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> 620 or 920 for an FX-6100?


920 anytime, as long as you plan on overclocking to full potential








The 620 will have a hard time dissipating lots of heat due to it's small rad. All depends on how hot you plan on getting that FX


----------



## grunion

Well as soon as mine hit 70°c it starts throwing out errors.
So 920 it is


----------



## InsideJob

The price difference between the 620 and 920 here in Canada right now is pretty insane though... $45 for 620, $100 for 920. I dont regret buying my 620 but I sure wish I would have been able to get myself the 920 instead...


----------



## Macke93

Where can I buy a 3 pin to molex adapter? :O Looking forward to connect the 620 completely to my PSU and mount better fans on the 620 rad







But I don't know which adapters I need








Happy for any help


----------



## EliteReplay

how is it better to put the radiator or pump orientation to avoid bubbles and noise?

which one of this two its better?


or this one


i personally like the first configuration. thanks


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Where can I buy a 3 pin to molex adapter? :O Looking forward to connect the 620 completely to my PSU and mount better fans on the 620 rad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I don't know which adapters I need
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Happy for any help


Well I don't know where to buy in Sweden but there's always Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_8?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=molex+to+3+pin&sprefix=molex+to%2Celectronics%2C239


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> how is it better to put the radiator or pump orientation to avoid bubbles and noise?
> which one of this two its better?
> * Pic *
> or this one
> * Pic *
> i personally like the first configuration. thanks


I like the first one too!







I'm gonna rotate mine 620 when I bought new fans and so on









The second configuration isn't giving me any bubbles or noise so it works great for me!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well I don't know where to buy in Sweden but there's always Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_2_8?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=molex+to+3+pin&sprefix=molex+to%2Celectronics%2C239


Big thanks man! Gonna buy from Amazon because the shops and stores in sweden sucks at these adapters







and prices in the US are alot cheaper ! Sometimes even lower price with taxes, shipping counted in to the final price !


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EliteReplay*
> 
> how is it better to put the radiator or pump orientation to avoid bubbles and noise?
> which one of this two its better?
> 
> or this one
> 
> i personally like the first configuration. thanks


I've never gotten bubbles in any position and I've tried just about every position you can with this 620. The only noise I get is from the fan and how it is placed and what is in front of it. The absolute quietest position for my is with the fan+rad tied into the 5.25" bay.


----------



## stickg1

What case is that? Looks sweet!


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What case is that? Looks sweet!


NZXT Phantom, one in White and in Pink









For myself I've decided which fans it will be on my 620, it will be two Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm mounted in Push N Pull as exhaust







New case fans will be Be Quiet! Silent Wings 2200rpm, 3 pieces ! And last but not least a BitFenix 200mmx25mm width in the top next to my stock 200mm NZXT fan, looking forward to order in about two weeks !


----------



## stickg1

Is that the full or mid tower?

I like the pink btw. I'm sure people hate on it, i actually like the color pink and a real man can rock pink. It's the insecure dweebs that hate!

I was thinking of getting one of those mid tower phantoms. I don't have desk space for a full tower and my antec 300 has some quirks id like to remedy with a new case.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Is that the full or mid tower?
> I like the pink btw. I'm sure people hate on it, i actually like the color pink and a real man can rock pink. It's the insecure dweebs that hate!
> I was thinking of getting one of those mid tower phantoms. I don't have desk space for a full tower and my antec 300 has some quirks id like to remedy with a new case.


It's the full tower phantom! Bought mine before thos smaller phantom 410 came out! Go for the big and be happy from day one








Yeah I like my pink phantom and my friends and other people always get impressed when they see it


----------



## InsideJob

Mine, the white one, is the 410. However would have probably just got the full size if I knew I was going to get so into computer







hehe this is my first build so I went off what I needed at the time not what I was going to need in the future


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Mine, the white one, is the 410. However would have probably just got the full size if I knew I was going to get so into computer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> hehe this is my first build so I went off what I needed at the time not what I was going to need in the future


The 410 is great too from what I've been reading on severals forums!
When I installed new cooling paste on both CPU and the 620 to the same (Arctic Silver MX-5) my temps is really been better! So for those of you people that think you got too high temps, try changing the paste if you haven't!


----------



## bmgjet

Just get the 620 if the price difference is that big.
The radiator on the 920 is overkill anyway since its limited by the small coolant pipes.

Lap the 620 and stick some aftermarket fans on it and it will operate better then a stock 920.
Then if you do what I did and upgrade to a 920 and stick the same fans on and lap it then its only 2-3C better then the 620 with the same which isnt worth it being twice the price.


----------



## InsideJob

I may consider lapping mine. I've never lapped anything before so I'll have to check some guides


----------



## oldcompgeek

Pardon for just butting in guys but I was curious about what "lapping" is and how or why it helps with cooling. I just purchased the 920 on sale at NCIX for 69.99 and thought for sure that it would be just fine as - is except for the Lepa Casino 1c that I'm going to use on the "push" side for looks and being a little quieter. (I'm mounting it under my dvd burner in the 5 1/4 bay so the casino will show through the front grilles) Will I be fine leaving it stock on my system? Thanks.

System Specs:

MSI 990FXA-GD80 motherboard with a AMD Phenom II 965 deneb at 4.2 ghz
Kingston Hyper-X 1800 memory (2 X 2 GIG)
Powercolor 6850/Sapphire 6870 Crossfired
Antec high current gamer power supply
Sentey Arvina Extreme edition case with 6 L.E.D. 120mm fans (stock)
---installing this weekend--> Antec Kuhler 920 cooling system with Lepa casino 1c push fan
Rosewill USB 2.0 card (pci) with 1 internal usb header to plug the Antec's usb connector in .. mobo has only 2 and the 4 usb 2 ports took em
Samsung cheapie dvd burner
2 Western Digital 80 gig Velociraptor boot drives in Raid 0 (both for 50 bucks so couldn't pass them up lol)
1 Western Digital Blue 750 gig hard drive for reliable storage
46 inch cheap Curtis HDTV for bedroom movie watching and gaming with my sons

System runs great but the stock FX-8120 cooler I'm using - even with an extra thermaltake 80mm fan pushing - barely keeps up.


----------



## bmgjet

http://www.techpowerup.com/articles/cooling/air/39

Same apply to the base of the cooler just need to be a little careful of the water pipes when holding it all.
I taped the radiator to my arm pretty much.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> The 410 is great too from what I've been reading on severals forums!
> When I installed new cooling paste on both CPU and the 620 to the same (Arctic Silver MX-5) my temps is really been better! So for those of you people that think you got too high temps, try changing the paste if you haven't!


I still can't believe you had two different types of paste on there







. Live and learn


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I still can't believe you had two different types of paste on there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Live and learn


HAHA! A beginners fail







I just laugh at myself now









Just bought a Bitfenix 200mm for my NZXT chassi and turned the 620 radiator around 180 degrees!








It were extremely close between the 620 radiator and the Bitfenix fan







about 1-2 millimetres left


----------



## sunset1

well im a day late and a dollar short as usual but i was hoping to tell you about the new Bitfenix fans that i got shipped today. Sorry just saw the post.
I have a coolermaster haf 22 and simular setup as yours but i have a thermaltake water 2.0 pro that i installed outside the case on the top. Think h100 similar. my stock fans run at 650-700 rpm.
The spectere pro cost the same as the regular bitfenix fans i found.
here are the specs.
200x200x25
12vdc
starting voltage 5vdc
current .28a _+ 10%
materials pc &pbt ? plastic looks to me
speed 900rmp +- 10%
148.72 cfm +- 10%
air pressure 1.26 mmh20
noise... 27.5 db (A)
fluid dynamic bearings (fdb)
included parts
4 fan screws
long fans screws 4
anti -vibration rivits 4
low speed (7v) adaptr 1

Also I was curious of the orientation with the hoses at the top thinking that if there was any air it would be at the top of the unit. I was wondering if those with this configuration could chime in and tell me how you like it.
Im doing a dual gpu mod wiith a simular unit (asetec man) for thermaltake water 2.0 pro but in my mod I have to cut ... yes cut the hose to install the gpu waterblock for the 2nd card. I only have space for one 120 rad so i got the 49mm rad in my kit. I think with this setup making sure i get all the air out ill put the hoses in the bottom position. Wish me luck because im not sure it will be enough to cool 2 6950's Modding today and if its not enough ill just get a 2nd unit and put it in the bottom of my case.
Aka the red mod.. in my case extreme. :>


----------



## oldcompgeek

Thank you BMGJET !! I will get some assorted wet sandpaper and get the water block of the 920 as smooth as silk. I guess I will go ahead and order some of the top of the line Arctic Silver as well to ensure the best possible heat transfer. I already have some ceramic type thermal paste that I got at radio shack for 10 bucks but it's probably not in the same league as the good struff. With installing the 920 in the dvd drive area to draw in the freshest air possible, as well as the lapping and the LEPA Casino push fan, I should have the 920 working about as good as it can. Thanks again!!


----------



## stickg1

I prefer Antec Formula 7, you can get it at Staples for $15. That's the best I've used, I like MX-4 as well. Arctic Silver 5 is pretty good but I've had lower temps with Antec 7 and MX-4.


----------



## oldcompgeek

I hadn't heard of either of them before now. I'll have to get over to staples and try some of that Antec paste. It'll save the wait to have some arctic silver shipped here as well. Thanks a lot! BTW, is the "7" Antec's best paste? Was just curious if that was the paste the 920 comes pre-installed with or a less expensive version.


----------



## stickg1

I think formula 7 is there high end paste. I know they have a few cheaper ones. It is diamond/carbon based and transfers heat better than metallic or ceramic based pastes.


----------



## bmgjet

Arctic Silver 5 or MX4 are what I use.
AS5 on the rigs a dont take the coolers off and on since it has a bit of a burn in period and will drop 3-4C over a few days.
Where MX4 only takes a hour to burn in and its performance doesn't increase from there.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Thank you BMGJET !! I will get some assorted wet sandpaper and get the water block of the 920 as smooth as silk. I guess I will go ahead and order some of the top of the line Arctic Silver as well to ensure the best possible heat transfer. I already have some ceramic type thermal paste that I got at radio shack for 10 bucks but it's probably not in the same league as the good struff. With installing the 920 in the dvd drive area to draw in the freshest air possible, as well as the lapping and the LEPA Casino push fan, I should have the 920 working about as good as it can. Thanks again!!


Never tried lapping yet... but I've read that if you start off with emery cloth the process goes way way faster. This stuff is for sanding metal and it lasts way longer than sand paper. They say use emery cloth first then go to 400 grit sand paper etc...


----------



## ghostly44

Hi just thought I'd post a pic


----------



## oldcompgeek

Okay, thanks. I appreciate the info as I'm trying to get everything done (prep-wise) before I do the install to get the best possible performance out of the 910 so I don't find out later that I have to take it back out to do something. I got the Lepa Casino 1c from UPS yesterday and it is a very high quality product! It's easy to tell that they make good fans. I also got the Rosewill pci card with it that will add my third USB 2.0 port to plug the 920 in to. Can't wait till monday when it comes lol.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Hey Ghostly44, you have a clean looking rig there! Everything is in it's place. Nice work.


----------



## stickg1

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention, the Antec formula 7 is very thick, i would heat up the tube with a hair dryer or running hot water.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Thanks for the hheads up I sure wouldn't have known to prep the therm. paste. I'm wondering now, though If that trick would have worked with the Zalman paste that came with my 9900 max cooler that's on my Fatality Scorpious rig. That cooler was high quality but the black paste was like 10 yr old toothpaste. Thx again I'll post pics of the Antec install 2mor eve. BTW , check this out below-- Ihad to order one for the future cuz at that price, a 240mm is 2 good 2 pass up!

http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=55344&vpn=ECO%2DC240&manufacture=CoolIT%20Systems&promoid=1373


----------



## stickg1

I've used Zalman STG-2, it's pretty thick but not as thick as formula 7. Actually I forgot, that STG-2 performed really well for me. I used a CNPS9900MAX for a while, good cooler...


----------



## pvanberlo

Yesterday I started building a new gaming system, and installed the H2O 620 in it. When tightening the screws, there is a point where the screw will spin indefinitely. I searched through this thread, and saw some similar issues described, but in those cases the metal insert/receiver was deforming the plastic bracket etc. I can confirm this is not the case with my setup, the metal insert is still fully inserted in the back plate. Is this normal? Are these new thumbscrews Antec came up with? I believe this is a new version of the H2O 620 (with LGA2011 support etc).

The waterblock doesn't budge, so it appears to be installed correctly. Also, all four screws have the same issue, so I can't imagine they're all stripped somehow. I don't really have to tighten them that much for them to reach the 'free spinning' state.

Thanks.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pvanberlo*
> 
> Yesterday I started building a new gaming system, and installed the H2O 620 in it. When tightening the screws, there is a point where the screw will spin indefinitely. I searched through this thread, and saw some similar issues described, but in those cases the metal insert/receiver was deforming the plastic bracket etc. I can confirm this is not the case with my setup, the metal insert is still fully inserted in the back plate. Is this normal? Are these new thumbscrews Antec came up with? I believe this is a new version of the H2O 620 (with LGA2011 support etc).
> The waterblock doesn't budge, so it appears to be installed correctly. Also, all four screws have the same issue, so I can't imagine they're all stripped somehow. I don't really have to tighten them that much for them to reach the 'free spinning' state.
> Thanks.


Yes this is common, if you overtighten the thumb screws it strips the plastic backplate. It looks like the metal pegs are still in there, and they are, but they have a little metal lip on them and they have dug into the plastic backplate and it lets them spin as you turn them, endlessly. The screws are tight enough, in fact the tightest they could get was right before they started digging into the plastic and spinning. The only problem you may have now is the removal of the coldplate/pump is you ever need to do so. My backplate is stripped too, to remove it I have to take off both sides of my case, use a screw driver one side and a pair of needlenose pliers on the backplate side. If you press in hard with the screw driver the peg will stick out of the backplate enough for you to get a hold of them with the pliers. Then you can unscrew them. I wish they would make a sturdier backplate though....


----------



## Macke93

Did Prime95 heat and power consumptition test on my system today and the results is amazing!









I've removed the stock cooling paste(s) on both my Antec 620 and my AMD FX-8120 CPU with chemical petrol, very effective! And applied new cooling paste, the Arctic Silver 5








Installed a second fan on the 620 rad and mounted with a second set of screws that i ordered, currently using the NZXT fan that came with my chassi as the second one and it is mounted in push N pull as exhaust (hot air blows out from my case)








Latest part that I installed is the Bitfenix Spectre PRO 200mm (black without LED's) in top next to my NZXT stock 200mm, both as intake of cooler air!

Going to change both 620 rad fans to Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850RPM in the same PnP configuration!








Going to replace the rest 120mm case fans to Be Quiet! Shadow Wings 2200rpm(!) to get maximum airflow









So far my temps using Prime95 as burntest gone from 72 degrees celsius on CPU to 56 degrees using heat test in prime95 for 15 minutes! And the core temps gone from around 56-57 degrees to 40-41 degrees, amazing difference! I'm more than happy with all my parts and the cooling is great!









Pic of the temperatures recorded today!


----------



## stickg1

Nice temps!

But how many of your case fans are intake and how many are exhaust. I typically get the best results when I have slightly more exhaust than intake.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Nice temps!
> But how many of your case fans are intake and how many are exhaust. I typically get the best results when I have slightly more exhaust than intake.


Thanks








Antec 620 Push N Pull as exhaust in the back, dual 200mm fans in top as intake, dual 120mm fans in the side as intake and the 120/140mm front fan is going to be mounted as intake


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Antec 620 Push N Pull as exhaust in the back, dual 200mm fans in top as intake, dual 120mm fans in the side as intake and the 120/140mm front fan is going to be mounted as intake


Yikes! That is a lot of intake. Getting cool air into the case is good thing, but it is more important to get the hot air out of the case, as most of your components produce heat. There are pros and cons to both negative and positive pressure air cooling. However, negative pressure cooling (more exhaust than intake) keeps the system temperatures lower.
Quote:


> the next decision for you to make will be between positive and negative pressure. What I mean by this is that there are different benefits and drawbacks to be had depending on whether there is more airflow into a case or more airflow out of a case. With a positive-pressure system (and filtered fans), the inside of your case will stay cleaner because the only air entering the case will be filtered and the extra air that isn't exhausted by the exhaust fans will blow out through cracks and vents in the case. With a negative pressure system, the vacuum inside the case will pull air in through those same cracks and vents. A negative pressure design, however, will result in better cooling because it keeps a constant stream of air moving through the case at all times.


-Xoxide

With a high end case like yours almost all of the air being pushed into the machine will be filtered. You would have better results with a standard setup of top and rear exhaust with front and side intake. Hot air has the tendency to expand and rise, cool air settles toward the bottom naturally. That is why most cases are designed for top exhaust and bottom intake.


----------



## RKTGX95

Does anyone have any idea how to dust of the Kuhler 920 when compressed air isn't working/enough? (preferably without removing it from the CPU, only the rad itself)


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yikes! That is a lot of intake. Getting cool air into the case is good thing, but it is more important to get the hot air out of the case, as most of your components produce heat. There are pros and cons to both negative and positive pressure air cooling. However, negative pressure cooling (more exhaust than intake) keeps the system temperatures lower.
> -Xoxide
> With a high end case like yours almost all of the air being pushed into the machine will be filtered. You would have better results with a standard setup of top and rear exhaust with front and side intake. Hot air has the tendency to expand and rise, cool air settles toward the bottom naturally. That is why most cases are designed for top exhaust and bottom intake.


I'll try both intake and exhaust with my upcoming front fan, then I'll see what works best with my setup ! Thanks for the advice


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea how to dust of the Kuhler 920 when compressed air isn't working/enough? (preferably without removing it from the CPU, only the rad itself)


Try a vacuum cleaner, preferably a shop vac


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea how to dust of the Kuhler 920 when compressed air isn't working/enough? (preferably without removing it from the CPU, only the rad itself)


You remove both the fans and compressed air doesn't do the trick? Because that's how I do it. Granted I use an air compressor because being a carpenter by trade I have a few of them, and I keep one at the house for cleaning. One advantage of an air compressor is that it has an adjustable regulator so I can control the PSI. I usually set it around 50 PSI to dust my computer, but I have cranked it up a little higher to to clean the radiator because it is tougher to clean. Try loosening the dust with compressed air and then vacuuming the other side. Hope that helps.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> I'll try both intake and exhaust with my upcoming front fan, then I'll see what works best with my setup ! Thanks for the advice


Not trying to tell you how to run your system or anything but take this diagram as an example. This isn't your case, but thisis how cases are typically designed for optimal cooling


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Try a vacuum cleaner, preferably a shop vac


before i'll do anything too stupid, this is the only one i have access to (i.e. home)


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







will this work? (it has the upper nozzle thingy which by logic "should" work)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You remove both the fans and compressed air doesn't do the trick? Because that's how I do it. Granted I use an air compressor because being a carpenter by trade I have a few of them, and I keep one at the house for cleaning. One advantage of an air compressor is that it has an adjustable regulator so I can control the PSI. I usually set it around 50 PSI to dust my computer, but I have cranked it up a little higher to to clean the radiator because it is tougher to clean. Try loosening the dust with compressed air and then vacuuming the other side. Hope that helps.


lucky you









do you think that reversing the fans and going full (2500+ RPM) would do it?


----------



## stickg1

I have a Dyson just like that, my wife uses it around the house. I just sucked all the crap out of an air filter with it this morning. It has a suction almost as powerful as my shop vac. Give that a try!


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I have a Dyson just like that, my wife uses it around the house. I just sucked all the crap out of an air filter with it this morning. It has a suction almost as powerful as my shop vac. Give that a try!


ok thanks! i'll give it a try when i'll have the time. (its almost midnight at my time zone...)


----------



## ghostly44

Thanks just keeping the i2500k cool it's pretty cheap nowadays to make a nice rig


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Does anyone have any idea how to dust of the Kuhler 920 when compressed air isn't working/enough? (preferably without removing it from the CPU, only the rad itself)


I used a vacuum on mine but it was removed from the system at the time.


----------



## oldcompgeek

I am finally done waiting for my 920 -- coming tomorrow -- and I've got my LEPA Casino 1c and the Rosewill USB 2.0 pci card for the extra internal connector to connect the 920. I am going to use a bracket that I cut out at work with the water jewt machine to mount it where the 2nd DVD drive down would go. I've painted the bracket flat black and got my 120 mm holes drilled to mount it. I also have a Antec 620 coming next week to use to cool my Powercolor 6850/Sapphire 6870 video card setup. The problem is that I can mount the water block on the 6870 and the 620 Radiator in the rear fan slot, but I'll have to find or make a mounting bracket to hold it to the 6870. Does anyone know where I can get one? I have to find an aftermarket water block as well to connect the 6850 to my homemade "loop". The pump on the 620 will hopefully be enough to move enough water to keep them chilly as even a little less pressure will just keep the water in the rad longer and get it cooler before returning it to the blocks. What kind of liquid would y'all use in that type of heinz 57 setup? I do know that a stock 620 loop keeps a nvidia 580 pretty cold so it'll hopefully be fine this way. Any pro's with advice will be appreciated much. Thanks!


----------



## ArchDevil

Guys how to install 2nd fan for p/p? where can get the screws for 2nd fan?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> Guys how to install 2nd fan for p/p? where can get the screws for 2nd fan?


Take one of the screws that came with your Kuhler to the local hardware store, or even a big box store like Lowes or Home Depot (if you're in the US) and try to find the right ones. IRC they are 6/32 1.25" machine screws but I'm not 100% certain. But like I said take one with you to the store and buy 4 more.


----------



## ArchDevil

^ Alright. I told my dad to bring me 1 from work, Hope he will get me the right one.
Thanks


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> Guys how to install 2nd fan for p/p? where can get the screws for 2nd fan?


Just buy a set of 6-32 x 30 screws, I ordered mine from a swedish internet dealer, just look at any big computer store that sells custom watercooling sets







The screws were cheap, only 9-10 dollars for two sets screws and shipping included!









Here is a pic of my screw package !


Good luck, PnP is great and I'm going to change both fans on my 620 rad in about one and a half weeks !


----------



## FloppyCartridge

Hi ArchDevil,

You can email [email protected] for four long screws for an additional fan for P/P configuration.

Hope you get this in time!


----------



## ArchDevil

^Really? you get them for free from Antec?

My dad gave me these from work:








They seems to be the same as the black ones came in the box. Didn't checked yet.


----------



## InsideJob

Looks like those will work just fine, hide them on the less visible side


----------



## Krusher33

I just buy mine from Lowe's.


----------



## RKTGX95

Hey lads, i just wanted to update you that operation "remove dust from 920 by any means" wasn't a success







. even though i tried with a VAC it didn't work, but most possibly because my VAC is old or im a bit too lazy to clean the filter now







. probably worth mentioning i tried to use 95% alcohol before that (before my previous post) which like using not enough water, only have done worse. i guess my next step would be to remove my cooler ant just put the rad in the sink under continuous & strong water flow but only after i'll buy a new TIM. my dilemma is which one for the 920, the Noctua NH-T1 or MX4? or even the Antec Formula 6/7 since its an Antec product? (or flip a coin?)


----------



## FloppyCartridge

Yes, ArchDevil. See if those screws work. If not, Antec will send ones to you free of charge.


----------



## ArchDevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> Hey lads, i just wanted to update you that operation "remove dust from 920 by any means" wasn't a success
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . even though i tried with a VAC it didn't work, but most possibly because my VAC is old or im a bit too lazy to clean the filter now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . probably worth mentioning i tried to use 95% alcohol before that (before my previous post) which like using not enough water, only have done worse. i guess my next step would be to remove my cooler ant just put the rad in the sink under continuous & strong water flow but only after i'll buy a new TIM. my dilemma is which one for the 920, the Noctua NH-T1 or MX4? or even the Antec Formula 6/7 since its an Antec product? (or flip a coin?)


The Noctua NH-T1 is good. So as the MX-4. In your case just flip a Coin


----------



## RKTGX95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> The Noctua NH-T1 is good. So as the MX-4. In your case just flip a Coin


So it has come to this...







too nervous now, i'll update soon.


----------



## bmgjet

Also a tip for improving the cooling even more if you bought 2 new fans is to chop the old factory one to make it a shroud then tape it between the push fan and radiator.
Cut down the noise as well.

How it works is by giving a sealed air gap between them the air has a chance for it to lose some terbalance and build more pressure then when the fans hard against the radiator.

The pull sides not effected as much so isnt really worth your time making a shroud for unless you want every last be of performance out of the cooler and fans.


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *RKTGX95*
> 
> So it has come to this...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> too nervous now, i'll update soon.


Try to get the GELID GC-Extreme Thermal Compound! It performs extremely well in som tests!








Link to a benchmark ! http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Gelid_Solutions/GC-Extreme/4.html


----------



## oldcompgeek

In reference to the shroud, would just a stripped 120mm fan housing be okay and just use longer bolts that are the same thread and just put them through both instead of taping? Also, I saw a Zalman 135mm fan that uses 120mm bolt pattern so If I just got two of those, stripped the second, and bolted them both it should give more airflow due to covering almost the entire radiator (maybe all of it)


----------



## bmgjet

Yeah they are bolted, The tape is to make sure there are no air leaks between the shroud, fan and radiator since if your going to put the effort into making one then you might as well have it air tight.


----------



## ArchDevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> ^Really? you get them for free from Antec?
> My dad gave me these from work:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> They seems to be the same as the black ones came in the box. Didn't checked yet.


Ahh, the screws match but they are not long enough







.
I guess I'll take 1 Screw and go to the store to buy ones.


----------



## stickg1

If you are using a standard 25mm thick 120mm fan then you need 1.25inch screws or 32mm.


----------



## Airrick10

I have been using 2 screws diagonaly on each side of the rad for almost 2 years...you don't need 4 more screws other than the ones provided!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Also a tip for improving the cooling even more if you bought 2 new fans is to chop the old factory one to make it a shroud then tape it between the push fan and radiator.
> Cut down the noise as well.
> How it works is by giving a sealed air gap between them the air has a chance for it to lose some terbalance and build more pressure then when the fans hard against the radiator.
> The pull sides not effected as much so isnt really worth your time making a shroud for unless you want every last be of performance out of the cooler and fans.


OMG, that sounds like a really good idea. I just chopped up a fan in my spare parts box. I sent my factory fan to a friend so he could run push/pull without buying two new fans. I need to get some screws about a quarter inch longer though. You sir, are brilliant!!!


----------



## ArchDevil

Will these fit for 2nd fan?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ststma15in6t.html


----------



## stickg1

How thick is your fan? Standard 25mm? Then yes it will work.


----------



## ArchDevil

^ I don't know yet, I need to order them.
But I'm gonna get 2 of these: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/yalo12d1cafa1.html
or

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swhe12mmcofa.html

or Scythe GT-AP15. Didn't decide yet..


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> ^ I don't know yet, tried on R4.
> But I'm gonna get 2 of these: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/yalo12d1cafa1.html
> or
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/swhe12mmcofa.html
> or Scythe GT-AP15. Didn't decide yet..


Go with Scythe Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm or another high rpm fan with high CFM ratings (how much air it blows)


----------



## ArchDevil

Hows this?: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/yalo12d1hisp.html

i heard the more static preasure the better, is that true?

Also do i have to connect the radiator fan to the block? because i see it limits the fan to 1450 r when antec says its 1800 rpm. can i just connect it ti the motherboard?


----------



## Robilar

Just plug the fans into the header on the pump and plug the connector into the cpu power connector. Install the included software and it will manage pump and fan speeds automatically in keeping with the cpu temperatures.

It's not overly complicated and once installed you will not need to do anything further.

BTW, I emailed Antec last week about getting me the LGA2011 mounting kit and they sent it to me within 3 days at no charge. Great service.


----------



## ArchDevil

I contacted Antec to but he said that he forwarded my information to someone that handle costumers in the middle east and that he will contact me.

No one contacted me yet.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> Hows this?: http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/yalo12d1hisp.html
> i heard the more static preasure the better, is that true?
> Also do i have to connect the radiator fan to the block? because i see it limits the fan to 1450 r when antec says its 1800 rpm. can i just connect it ti the motherboard?


Static pressure...they say so. I found 133cfm fans noisy overkill for no benefit. I think I settled for 59cfm... acceptable noise for me and cooled as good as it was going to.

I used to connect my Corsair H50 direct to the PSU. Used an adapter plug with an extra blue wire going to a fan plug for the mobo that allowed speed to be monitored. When initially using the CPU plug on the mobo I had Fan Control disabled in bios to allow full speed operation. I was overclocking and wanted maximum cooling. Also live in sub tropics.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Also a tip for improving the cooling even more if you bought 2 new fans is to chop the old factory one to make it a shroud then tape it between the push fan and radiator.
> Cut down the noise as well.
> How it works is by giving a sealed air gap between them the air has a chance for it to lose some terbalance and build more pressure then when the fans hard against the radiator.
> The pull sides not effected as much so isnt really worth your time making a shroud for unless you want every last be of performance out of the cooler and fans.


I did this today. It dropped my max load temp by 2 degrees. Dude, you rock!!


----------



## alancsalt

Theory I read on shrouds was they got rid of the dead air spot in front of the fan motor in the center....


----------



## stickg1

That makes sense. I was surprised to see how well it worked. I had to do a little work to make it happen though. I couldn't find an appropriate sized screw to go through both fans (2" was too short, 2.5" was too long) so I took the push fan and drilled the holes bigger on the far side so I could get a screw head and screwdriver in the hole to tighten a 1.5" screw through both the fans and into the rad.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Figured out a design for your idea.(hope u don't mind) I can use the waterjet at work to make a bracket that is square and tapers to the rounded 120mm discharge of my casino fan that will force the air through every millimeter of the radiator and like u said, build up more static pressure. I'll send pics of it after cutting and painting and will save the programming sequence for future ones to be built. It should slowly take the air foil from round to square so it causes very little backpressure if any. Thanks for the idea!


----------



## bmgjet

Then the last hint is cold air induction.
Get some extraction fan hose. Places like Mitre ten stock over here in NZ.
I used 1M for 140mm stuff since it fits over my fans perfectly. Then run it out the window of your house or down to foot height.

The average temp in a room can be 10C difference between the roof and the floor. So if your computers is desk height it can make quite a difference. Or if you run it outside it makes a hell of a difference.

Gotten mine below 0C a few nights when it was winter.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Then the last hint is cold air induction.
> Get some extraction fan hose. Places like Mitre ten stock over here in NZ.
> I used 1M for 140mm stuff since it fits over my fans perfectly. Then run it out the window of your house or down to foot height.
> The average temp in a room can be 10C difference between the roof and the floor. So if your computers is desk height it can make quite a difference. Or if you run it outside it makes a hell of a difference.
> Gotten mine below 0C a few nights when it was winter.


I plan on doing this when I move into my new place


----------



## Callumpy

I recently bought a 620 to sit on my 3570k and had to RMA it because of a large hole going through part of the radiator near one of the screw holes.









But now ive got it back








Running prime95 at stock keeps my temps around 45 - 50 degrees, and idle it sits around 23 - 29 degrees. Not sure if that is good but at least its not on fire


----------



## makol

I have a 620 that recently started making bubbling sounds, assuming that it's being caused by air bubbles.

Is there a way to fix this or am I going to have to RMA it?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I recently bought a 620 to sit on my 3570k and had to RMA it because of a large hole going through part of the radiator near one of the screw holes.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But now ive got it back
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Running prime95 at stock keeps my temps around 45 - 50 degrees, and idle it sits around 23 - 29 degrees. Not sure if that is good but at least its not on fire


Sounds good to me. Try an overclock and check the temps.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sounds good to me. Try an overclock and check the temps.


Thank you







Ill try a moderate overclock tomorrow and see how it goes


----------



## JTHMfreak

How me join?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *makol*
> 
> I have a 620 that recently started making bubbling sounds, assuming that it's being caused by air bubbles.
> Is there a way to fix this or am I going to have to RMA it?


Yeah will be air bubbles in the pump.
No way to get the air out but its best to have it in the radiator since it doesn't make any noise then.

You will need to bench run it while shaking the cooler and radiator.
Make sure you keep the radiator higher then the cooler so all the air bubbles move up into it and out of the pump.


----------



## makol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Yeah will be air bubbles in the pump.
> No way to get the air out but its best to have it in the radiator since it doesn't make any noise then.
> You will need to bench run it while shaking the cooler and radiator.
> Make sure you keep the radiator higher then the cooler so all the air bubbles move up into it and out of the pump.


So kinda do what's displayed in this video?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JT_u_eLVoIc&list=UU7sA-l_-MXWahnlPPnEyz1w&index=1&feature=plcp


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sounds good to me. Try an overclock and check the temps.


Ive done an overclock to 4GHz and ran prime95 for about 5 mins and only saw temperatures of 55 degrees, sweet


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Ive done an overclock to 4GHz and ran prime95 for about 5 mins and only saw temperatures of 55 degrees, sweet


Sounds good to me, what voltage were you at? I'm at 4.3GHz @ 1.28v with max temp 58C.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sounds good to me, what voltage were you at? I'm at 4.3GHz @ 1.28v with max temp 58C.


Its at 1.21v (according to coretemp) and 1.19v (according to AIDA64 and CPU-Z), thats with the voltage set to auto in my mobo, I just changed the multiplier


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Its at 1.21v, thats with the voltage set to auto in my mobo, I just changed the ratio


That's fine, gotta start somewhere. What I would do is tinker with the voltage a little. But mostly trying to set it a little lower than auto does.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> That's fine, gotta start somewhere. What I would do is tinker with the voltage a little. But mostly trying to set it a little lower than auto does.


I might try and push the multiplier a little bit more sometime, its so tempting to just whack it up to like 5GHz, can't really afford to kill my CPU though


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I might try and push the multiplier a little bit more sometime, its so tempting to just whack it up to like 5GHz, can't really afford to kill my CPU though


You can only kill your CPU with excessive voltage and auto-voltage wont let you do that. Also I doubt you will get anything over 4.2GHz on auto-voltage, after that point you have to start doing adjustments manually. It wont overheat either, your PC will shut down if the CPU becomes too hot.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You can only kill your CPU with excessive voltage and auto-voltage wont let you do that. Also I doubt you will get anything over 4.2GHz on auto-voltage, after that point you have to start doing adjustments manually. It wont overheat either, your PC will shut down if the CPU becomes too hot.


Ah, cheers









What sort of temperatures would you say are too hot for the 3570k?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Ah, cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What sort of temperatures would you say are too hot for the 3570k?


They can take more heat than a Sandy, I would keep it under 75C in Prime95. Actually gaming use wont get near that high. Also think about getting two higher CFM fans and running push/pull on your radiator for more performance.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> They can take more heat than a Sandy, I would keep it under 75C in Prime95. Actually gaming use wont get near that high. Also think about getting two higher CFM fans and running push/pull on your radiator for more performance.


Any fan recommendations? I was thinking about buying some different ones to make my rig a bit quieter








At the moment im just running it with one NZXT fan that came with the case, got it exhausting out the back.

Also, the radiator actually does't even seem to be getting hot, I was expecting it to get warm at least, I take it thats normal? I'm used to being able to feel the heat on a heatsink lol


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Any fan recommendations? I was thinking about buying some different ones to make my rig a bit quieter
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At the moment im just running it with one NZXT fan that came with the case, got it exhausting out the back.
> Also, the radiator actually does't even seem to be getting hot, I was expecting it to get warm at least, I take it thats normal? I'm used to being able to feel the heat on a heatsink lol


Be Quiet! ShadowWings 120mm 2200RPM with 29.7 dB noise specification or Scythe Glide Stream 120mm 1400rpm or 1600rpm (those are the new fans from Scythe), you can get 2000rpm glide stream but it's a bit noisier









Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850rpm has many users too, it should run at acceptable sound levels and move alot of air


----------



## stickg1

Macke93 suggestion are loud for my taste! I just hate noise, I actually got the quietest fans I could find, <15dBa and 74CFM 1350RPM

SilenX EFX-12-15 120mm Case Fan
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226042

These are pretty awesome too:
COUGAR CF-V12HPB Vortex Hydro-Dynamic-Bearing PWM
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835553006

There are fans that move more air than these but for the very minimal noise the airflow is outstanding. I might switch to something higher powered in the future that is PWM so I can set a profile for it. My Silenx run at full speed all the time but are very quiet. The loudest fans in my case put out about 20dBa and I'm thinking of replacing them!

Not trying to talk crap Macke, just for me 29dBa might as well be a Mack truck idling next to my desk.


----------



## Davayy

I'm running Scythe GTP on my 620, keeps temps down to about 50c on 100%, and about 25-30 idle. I think i have a scythe slip stream and it is so loud for me







, wouldn't recommend it - does push a fair amount of air mind you.


----------



## Callumpy

Thanks for all the suggestions. I would really like some of them SilenX ones, they seem ridiculously quiet... but I don't think I can buy them in the UK.

Heres one of the closest I can find: http://www.ebuyer.com/387599-be-quiet-silentwings-2-120mm-bl062
(They are way too expensive)


----------



## stickg1

Naw dont get those, try to get something with atleast 70CFMs. Give me some of your local vendors and I'll find something good that wont break the bank. My kid as a soccer game, or football for you rather,







, but I'll look when I get home.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Naw dont get those, try to get something with atleast 70CFMs. Give me some of your local vendors and I'll find something good that wont break the bank. My kid as a soccer game, or football for you rather,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , but I'll look when I get home.


Thank you very much









I usually order online so anywhere like Amazon, eBuyer.com, Scan.co.uk, Overclockers.co.uk, Aria.co.uk.


----------



## InsideJob

Here's an update on my Kuhler 620 rig









http://www.overclock.net/forum/newestpost/1295271


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Thank you very much
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I usually order online so anywhere like Amazon, eBuyer.com, Scan.co.uk, Overclockers.co.uk, Aria.co.uk.


Dang man I looked all over scan.co.uk and amazon and all I could find that sparked my interest was these Enermax fans, Enermax makes great products. They're expensive though

http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm-enermax-apollish-silver-case-fan-(12193-m-h)-twister-bearing-glossy-coating-thermal-control


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Dang man I looked all over scan.co.uk and amazon and all I could find that sparked my interest was these Enermax fans, Enermax makes great products. They're expensive though
> http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm-enermax-apollish-silver-case-fan-(12193-m-h)-twister-bearing-glossy-coating-thermal-control


Yeah, they look like they would be amazing but that would actually kill the bank lol.

These ones are close to the specs of the enermax ones and they are cheap, but I hate lights







: http://www.ebuyer.com/206654-coolermaster-120mm-sickleflow-fan-blue-led-r4-l2r-20ac-gp


----------



## RKTGX95

Have anyone here tried the Corsair SP120's on the 920 here yet? (i know its a frequent question...)


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Yeah, they look like they would be amazing but that would actually kill the bank lol.
> These ones are close to the specs of the enermax ones and they are cheap, but I hate lights
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> : http://www.ebuyer.com/206654-coolermaster-120mm-sickleflow-fan-blue-led-r4-l2r-20ac-gp


Yeah those are nice. They dont carry the non-LED version? You could kill the LED's on there if you wanted with a little snip.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Yeah those are nice. They dont carry the non-LED version? You could kill the LED's on there if you wanted with a little snip.


I can't find the Non-LED ones anywhere









Ive found some more that look half decent: http://www.scan.co.uk/products/120mm-akasa-apache-black-ultra-silent-fan-hdb-bearing-pwm-with-s-flow-blades-1300rpm

They also cost a bit more but aren't quite as expensive as the enermax ones. Get what I pay for I guess







.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah those are pretty solid. I'd like to see more CFMs but the static pressure on those is massive so it should do the job.

Here is what I did with my Kuhler on bmgjets suggestion










I added that empty fan casing between my push fan and radiator. My push and pull fan are identical except one is the LED version.

Silenx LED - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226043
Silenx Black - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835226042
So quiet!


----------



## WiiiiizarD

Hi all, I request permission to participate.



Thank you.


----------



## soarwitheagles

Hi everyone!

I am just now trying to put together a new build.

I am looking for suggestions for the Antec Kuhler H20 620 please.

I have installed it already and it appears to be working well.

I placed a Coolermaster Sickleflow 120mm fan on it.

Wondering if I should put another one on it.

I am posting pics of my new HAF X with the Antec Kuhler H20 620 installed. I oriented it a little different than the instructions suggest.

Anyone here have an Antec Kuhler H20 620? And if yes, how do you like it and did you do any mods?

Thanks,

Soar

PS I have chosen to stay far away from all Corsair H models after suffering a terrible leak and poor customer service. So please do not try to convince me that Corsair is the way to go. Thank you!

PSS I have also posted a pic of the Corsair H70 leak that caused me so much trouble.


----------



## stickg1

Performance is better with two fans. Read the last few pages of this thread, there's a lot of talk about simple mods.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Hey guys. Got the spread sheet up. Thanks to alancsalt.

Hopefully you guys can edit it yourself to add yourself to the list.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles*


Why do your hose attachments to the pump look completely different from mine?

Or wait? Is that a corsair?


----------



## soarwitheagles

Yes, that is an H70 Corsair that caused me sooooooooo much heart ache. Now I am trying the Antec 620 and to be honest with you, I do feel a little apprehensive. Has anyone here had trouble with the Antec 620 leaking?

Please let me know.

Thank you,

Soar


----------



## soarwitheagles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Performance is better with two fans. Read the last few pages of this thread, there's a lot of talk about simple mods.


Stickg1,

Ok, I read back for a few pages and you are right! Lots of great suggestions.

For now, I suppose I will stick with the CoolerMaster Sickle Fan 120 mm Blue LED.

I have two more, and I am looking for four extra screws/bolts to attach the second fan.

Anyone know where I can purchase those 4 screws/bolts?

And what size are they?

I suspect OSH has them in stock if I can only discover the screw/bolt size.

Soar


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles*
> 
> Stickg1,
> Ok, I read back for a few pages and you are right! Lots of great suggestions.
> For now, I suppose I will stick with the CoolerMaster Sickle Fan 120 mm Blue LED.
> I have two more, and I am looking for four extra screws/bolts to attach the second fan.
> Anyone know where I can purchase those 4 screws/bolts?
> And what size are they?
> I suspect OSH has them in stock if I can only discover the screw/bolt size.
> Soar


I ordered mine from a watercooling site located in sweden!







I'm sure you find it in your country









6-32 x 30mm screws is what the package says!










Change both fans on the 620 radiator and it's a quiet high performance cooling system! Running mine with 2 fans and changed cooling paste, 4,1GHZ overclock on my CPU and still rocking!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles*
> 
> Yes, that is an H70 Corsair that caused me sooooooooo much heart ache. Now I am trying the Antec 620 and to be honest with you, I do feel a little apprehensive. Has anyone here had trouble with the Antec 620 leaking?
> Please let me know.
> Thank you,
> Soar


I personally only know of one instance of an antec leaking on this forum. It was a 920 I believe. Pretty sure the user was Nocturin. Let me find the post.

Edit: Here's the log of his rma experience etc. http://www.overclock.net/t/1269059/khuler-chronicles-antec-920-leak-update-13-8-29-12


----------



## ghostly44

Well I checked out the thread size for the 620 and its an American thread I used 4 power point metal threads they fit perfectly so just go to your hardware or electrical store and get 4 power point metal threads too easy they come with the power point or you can buy them separately.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostly44*
> 
> Well I checked out the thread size for the 620 and its an American thread I used 4 power point metal threads they fit perfectly so just go to your hardware or electrical store and get 4 power point metal threads too easy they come with the power point or you can buy them separately.


Computer case screws are the hardware used to secure parts of a computer case to the case. Although there are numerous manufacturers of computer cases, they have generally used three thread sizes. The Unified Thread Standard (UTS) originates from the United States while the ISO metric screw thread is standardized worldwide. In turn, these thread standards define preferred size combinations that are based on generic units-some on the inch and others on the millimeter.

The UTS 6-32 screws are often found on hard disk drives and the case's body to secure the covers.

The ISO M3 threaded holes are often found on optical disc drives and floppy drives.

The UTS 4-40 thumbscrews are typically located on either side of D-subminiature connectors such as on VGA or DVI ports

PC radiators frequently use 6-32 screws. That's NOT 6/32", but 6 gauge 32 threads per inch.

Couple of solutions to 6-32 screw problems:


By mothman


By DJ4g63t - A tie each side fastened with the head cut off another tie....

Work for you?


----------



## ghostly44

The power point screws are not 6/32" but the stated 6 gauge 32 threads per inch see for yourself. I have some that are 2.5 inches long so a shroud placed between the radiator and fan would not be a problem. No cable ties needed. They fit perfectly simple solution works for me.


----------



## stickg1

You need 6-32 1.25" screws for a standard 25mm wide fan. I suppose 1.5" would work too. Local hardware store has them for about $0.10 each.


----------



## soarwitheagles

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Computer case screws are the hardware used to secure parts of a computer case to the case. Although there are numerous manufacturers of computer cases, they have generally used three thread sizes. The Unified Thread Standard (UTS) originates from the United States while the ISO metric screw thread is standardized worldwide. In turn, these thread standards define preferred size combinations that are based on generic units-some on the inch and others on the millimeter.
> The UTS 6-32 screws are often found on hard disk drives and the case's body to secure the covers.
> The ISO M3 threaded holes are often found on optical disc drives and floppy drives.
> The UTS 4-40 thumbscrews are typically located on either side of D-subminiature connectors such as on VGA or DVI ports
> PC radiators frequently use 6-32 screws. That's NOT 6/32", but 6 gauge 32 threads per inch.
> Couple of solutions to 6-32 screw problems:
> 
> By mothman
> 
> By DJ4g63t - A tie each side fastened with the head cut off another tie....
> Work for you?


Very, very creative. But I would worry about the zip ties stretching or even snapping over time. I prefer metal screws with some loc-tite.

Soar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I personally only know of one instance of an antec leaking on this forum. It was a 920 I believe. Pretty sure the user was Nocturin. Let me find the post.
> Edit: Here's the log of his rma experience etc. http://www.overclock.net/t/1269059/khuler-chronicles-antec-920-leak-update-13-8-29-12


Now I feel a lot more confident. Thanks M3tal
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> I ordered mine from a watercooling site located in sweden!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm sure you find it in your country
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 6-32 x 30mm screws is what the package says!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Change both fans on the 620 radiator and it's a quiet high performance cooling system! Running mine with 2 fans and changed cooling paste, 4,1GHZ overclock on my CPU and still rocking!


Thank you!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ghostly44*
> 
> The power point screws are not 6/32" but the stated 6 gauge 32 threads per inch see for yourself. I have some that are 2.5 inches long so a shroud placed between the radiator and fan would not be a problem. No cable ties needed. They fit perfectly simple solution works for me.


Thanks for the clarity!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You need 6-32 1.25" screws for a standard 25mm wide fan. I suppose 1.5" would work too. Local hardware store has them for about $0.10 each.


Ok, I will run to OSH ASAP!

You guys are incredible!


----------



## alancsalt

On the H50, if the screws were too long you could damage the radiator. We had to make sure they were only as long as needed.

Yar, some guys just wanted to try creative solutions. I used longish 6-32 screws myself, trimmed to suit. Still found their tricks interesting.
Some guys in out of the way places had trouble finding screws and came up with temporary solutions while they waited for mail order.
You can peg them with standoffs and hold them down with carby springs too.


----------



## ghostly44

Hi again I would hope that people cut them to the correct size. Just because you can get long screws doesn't mean that you don't cut them down, of course if you don't cut them you probably would damage something. So check, the stated 2.5 inch screws need to be cut to size. Sorry I just assume people would check this before going ahead. Remember double check before doing things like this. Good Luck
P.S.- And buy your kids a puppy


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles*
> 
> Now I feel a lot more confident. Thanks M3tal


Well that's just the only incident I'm aware of. There could definitely be more out there.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well that's just the only incident I'm aware of. There could definitely be more out there.


He was our first customer who had problems with leaking actually on the unit


----------



## Kordova

Just wondering if anyone has compared both the 620 and the 920 pcb's? Just opened mine up and noticed a few pins left open? Could this mean they use the same board for both 620 and 920? If this is true there could possible mean controlling the 620 with 920 software. Via USB.

Just a curious thought but if anyone wants to open up there 920 I'll post pictures of my 620, got mine all opened up already.


----------



## Macke93

Just re-applied the cooling paste on my 620 and CPU! Got the idea to use a Sim-card for spreading the paste out to cover the whole area and it worked great







Also changed both fans to Revoltec Green LEDs with 49CFM and it's much quieter and even cooler in some conditions


----------



## Macke93

Here is some pics of my PnP setup on my Antec Kühler H20 620! Using Arctic Silver 5 Cooling paste on both cooler and CPU


----------



## stickg1

Oh wow! That looks bright and fun! Did your temps improve?


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Oh wow! That looks bright and fun! Did your temps improve?


Original fan is blowing more air, but these are much more good looking and ofcourse quieter! Will change later to other fans, probarly PWM fans, but with my new cooling paste and those fans in Push N Pull compared to Stock with only one fan, it's a clear improvement in temps, loudness (much quieter) and the looks!


----------



## Mikerhinos

Hi all !
Just to say that i'm a happy 620 customer since this week, and i'm amazed by its performances !
Stock fan, stock thermal paste, no sanding of the concave waterblock, and it cools perfectly my cpu.
So happy with it that i ordered a second one on friday for my gpu GTX460









Hope it won't leak though, lol.


----------



## InsideJob

Macke, just to note it is typically better to only apply the TIM to one of the items as you will end up with far too much paste on the socket otherwise. I typically apply it only to the processor so the cooler will spread it out when pressed down onto the processor. Too much thermal paste can be just as bad as not enough...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Macke, just to note it is typically better to only apply the TIM to one of the items as you will end up with far too much paste on the socket otherwise. I typically apply it only to the processor so the cooler will spread it out when pressed down onto the processor. Too much thermal paste can be just as bad as not enough...


^ What he said. You should only need the TIM on the cpu. And some TIM doesn't need to be spread. However I have never used AS5 nor do I ever plan to use it because I hate the stuff so not sure if you are supposed to spread it.


----------



## stickg1

I use Antec Formula 7 and its much thicker than AS5. I heat it up a little with a hair dryer and just put the smallest dot I can right in the center of the CPU and let the tension of the pump do the spreading. Works like a charm!


----------



## alancsalt

AS5 is OK. The only thing is it takes about a week to develop full effectiveness, where other TIMs don't "bed in" so much. They're pretty much as good as they get straight away.


----------



## Macke93

It works great, but I will ofcourse remember your advices! I did only spread out the paste on CPU, but now its on both because I had it mounted about 2 weeks, so you people dont think I'm doing wrong







Sometimes my english isn't good enoug


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> It works great, but I will ofcourse remember your advices! I did only spread out the paste on CPU, but now its on both because I had it mounted about 2 weeks, so you people dont think I'm doing wrong
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sometimes my english isn't good enoug


I just can't get over how SWEET that pink phantom looks. I want one!


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I just can't get over how SWEET that pink phantom looks. I want one!


It's COOL people say that havent seen a custom built rig before, I like it really much


----------



## ArchDevil

Guys i got my 2 AP-15's. My question is that my antec fan that came with the 620 is plugged in fan header that comes from the block. Can i plug the fans to the mobo or i must plug 1 fan to the block.?


----------



## Hellsigh

Is there noticable difference between 620 and 920?


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> Guys i got my 2 AP-15's. My question is that my antec fan that came with the 620 is plugged in fan header that comes from the block. Can i plug the fans to the mobo or i must plug 1 fan to the block.?


You can't use the fan header that comes from the block! You can just plug those fans directly to the motherboard connectors or even better, connect it to a molex to 3 pin (or 4 pin) so it gets full power directly from your PSU









Right know my own fans is connected to my motherboards 4 pin connectors, but I'm waiting on a package I ordered last Sunday including a set of molex cables/adapters to use them with direct power from my PSU









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsigh*
> 
> Is there noticable difference between 620 and 920?


The radiator on the 920 is thicker compared to 620 and the fans that comes with it is a little bit higher "CFM" rating (around 80CFM on 620 and 110CFM on 920)








In temperatures it will keep cool and stable at a little higher clocks with the 920, but on the other side my FX-8120 (stock clock 3,1GHZ) runs overclocked to 4,1GHZ (1GHZ OC







) with good temps which are completely stable


----------



## ArchDevil

If i can't use the one comes from the block? Then what's it for?


----------



## Hellsigh

should i get 620 or 920 (for a friend).
is the price dihfference worth it?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> If i can't use the one comes from the block? Then what's it for?


You can use the one from the block. Make sure you plug the fan header from the block in.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsigh*
> 
> should i get 620 or 920 (for a friend).
> is the price dihfference worth it?


If you change out the thermal paste on it from the stuff that comes with it, and add a second fan to the 620 it will perform more then fine for what, half the price?


----------



## ArchDevil

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> You can use the one from the block. Make sure you plug the fan header from the block in.


The block itself connected to the motherboard. But there's another cable coming from the block that is for the fan.
If he said i can't connect the fan to it then what it for? Should i leave it and just connect the 2 fans to the MB/PSU?


----------



## Hellsigh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> If you change out the thermal paste on it from the stuff that comes with it, and add a second fan to the 620 it will perform more then fine for what, half the price?


Ok.


----------



## stickg1

I would just plug a fan into that fan header coming off the block. That's what I do. I have way too many fans and too few fan headers to not use that one anyway. So either way will work, use the header coming from the block or plug the fans in elsewhere. As long as the block is plugged in you're good to go.


----------



## ArchDevil

Ok.
I plugged the fans into molex adapter so it will get the power straight from the PSU







.


----------



## sunset1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hellsigh*
> 
> Is there noticable difference between 620 and 920?


It really depends on what you are cooling with it and the noise level . Yes there are great fans out there but personally Id get the best rad for the budget. Also look for sales. But seriously there is no free lunch. The larger radiator will perform better if the cost is not to high to justify it. If this is for a processor, to me its a no brainer to get the thicker rad. kit.


----------



## bmgjet

With the same fans there is 2-3C difference between the 620 and 920 from my experience.
Give the 620 a lapping and it performs better then a factory 920 with the same fans.
Then do the same too the 920 and its back to being 2-3C better.

The radiator size doesnt make much difference with these closed loop coolers.
They are more limited by the size of the tubing and flow of the pump.

The only reason to go for a 920 is because you can control the fan speeds via the usb and provided software.


----------



## oldcompgeek

So if someone decided to go full h2o cooling, they COULD get better performance using the 49mm 920 rad by just switching block and pump? (and the rest odf the system) Would the in/out sizes affect the flow as well? Or would they have to be drilled and tapped with bigger fittings installed? (inside dia)


----------



## stickg1

If I were going full on water cooling I would just get a much bigger rad. I wouldn't want a $250 custom loop with a Asetek 120x120 rad. Just my thoughts.


----------



## oldcompgeek

agreed, however I don't have the room for a triple rad and was considering using my thick rad with a dual 120 mm rad to possibly equal the results while still fitting in the case that I like.


----------



## InsideJob

80mm thickness here for example. When I go custom loop I hope to have a few of these bad boys








http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16949/ex-rad-435/Alphacool_NexXxoS_Monsta_Dual_120mm_Radiator_-_80mm_Thick_-_Custom_Painted_White.html?tl=g30c95#blank


----------



## Cakewalk_S

Head over to this thread guys to view the same unit as the antec 620-920 pump modded to fit a 240 rad:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1312762/closed-loop-wc-mod-thread-h50-pump-and-or-thermaltake-water-2-0-performer-blocks

It should be awesome!


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> If I were going full on water cooling I would just get a much bigger rad. I wouldn't want a $250 custom loop with a Asetek 120x120 rad. Just my thoughts.


+1
And the fittings on the closed loop coolers are tiny


----------



## aznboy123

A bit of an odd request. But here we go.

Can someone take a picture of the 3pin fan connector for the Kuhler 920? 2 of my 3 pins "magically" came out. So I need to reconnect them but since they're all black I'm not sure of their position.










Or if someone can find a decent picture of it on the web, I would be extremely grateful with them.







I can't seem to find one at all.


----------



## oldcompgeek

here's the best that I could get with my phone of my 920. I hope it helps u. Msg me if u need any more help get'n it fixed as I have a new 920 that I could check out so's u can match em up.


----------



## aznboy123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> here's the best that I could get with my phone of my 920. I hope it helps u. Msg me if u need any more help get'n it fixed as I have a new 920 that I could check out so's u can match em up.


I can almost see the wiring on the 3rd pic.







The first and second wire is what I'm looking for.


----------



## ArchDevil

Since i don't own a 920 i tried to look for some pictures on the web for you. Here is what i found:






Hope it helps


----------



## oldcompgeek

If you want, I can turn off the rig and snap a close up of the wire on both sides...?? It'll take me about ten minutes total to get it done and get signed back on ok? Let me know.


----------



## stickg1

I think because the have the wires twisted or in a braid someone would have to un-twist theirs so you can see which wire goes to which terminal. I'm not suggesting that anyone do this as it would be a pain but that's the only solution I can see.


----------



## oldcompgeek

This is the best that I can get with my crappy 8mp cell phone camera. I hope it helps and u get your 920 straightened out!


----------



## aznboy123

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ArchDevil*
> 
> Since i don't own a 920 i tried to look for some pictures on the web for you. Here is what i found:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope it helps


It gave me some perspective. Thanks.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I think because the have the wires twisted or in a braid someone would have to un-twist theirs so you can see which wire goes to which terminal. I'm not suggesting that anyone do this as it would be a pain but that's the only solution I can see.


Nor would I suggest it either. I wouldn't wish this misfortune on anybody. lol









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is the best that I can get with my crappy 8mp cell phone camera. I hope it helps and u get your 920 straightened out!


Those were great! Thank you very much.


----------



## sunset1

you may have to take the cover off the pump with a continuity tester .. battery with a light ) test probe and see which wire goes where. Possibly on the pump board it will be labled + and - then the other wire would be for the rpms. You could call antec or possibly asetek and get a wireing schematic so you know for sure. if its the 3 wire you should have +12 -12 and i think the rpm signal on the 4 wire the extra wire is for the pwm. maybe someone with stronger electrical knowlege can chime in and give you some easier instructions on how to test with a muliti meter.
Asetek is the company that makes the kits for Anteck thermaltake and others.
If i get a chance tonight i can take one of mine off and take a look at it for you to see if i can help but you. good luck.
sunset1
Btw i have a few units .. 3 asteck dual pump units with gpu and cpu
1 thermaltake water 2.0 pro
1 thermaltake wate 2.o extreme.. the 3 aseteck are not installed right now so they would be the best bet. Looks like ill be up for a bit as now im curious. :>
later
sunset1.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Curiously, sunset, where could someone get a dual unit and about what should they run each? I guess the places that I shop only have limited water cooling units... Thanks in advance. If you have the knowledge, also are the pumps on the dual units stronger than the one in my 920 kuhler?


----------



## sunset1

I took the back off one of the pumps by removing two smaller head screws from the bottom of the pump and the top
comes right off. be carefull not to mess up the paste. duh... :">
I use the plastic cove that comes with the pump.
on the pcb side my cable is not twisted. there are three leads that go to the fan header.
its clearly listed on the pcb with a magnifying glass.. (im old) the left is tacho? tach
the middle is the positive and the right is the negative. - . just untwist the wires or see if the hot wire is identified by marking on the wire.
sometimes companies use white printed text dashes etec. to make it easy sometimes not.
The other way is to get a meter and with pump turned off use a ohm meter when you touch the correct wire at both ends
the needle with swing.Or a cheap continuity tester (battery and lightbub type ) when you touch the leads of the same wire at both sides the buld will light up. Then mark those bad boys.
hope this helps. If you get them marked pm me and ill grab my unit and tell you which is which. or just look at the motherboard. it should be listed on the board or the manual. Sounds hard but should be easy. Feel free to pm me at any time on this as i check my ipad pretty often.
sunset1


----------



## oldcompgeek

http://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Accelero-Graphics-Enthusiasts-ACCEL-HYBRID/dp/B008BHFVGM

I guess that link might be the reason that the dual (cpu/gpu) asatek h2o coolers are being sold off.... their newer gpu closed-loop system. We will probably see others possibly including antec coming out with their "versions" soon...??? Just wanted to share it with anyone that may want to know as I found it after a member turned me on to the link where I could get a good price on the dual asatek pumps/waterblocks.


----------



## sunset1

Asetek makes the clc coolers for Artic
the kits on ebay are new specific oem kits for older nvidia models that are easily modified for our needs.


----------



## jsbombjack

Hello. I now own one of the 620's, just on pull since it is running on a mini itx setup in a bitfenix prodigy. In theory I can source 12.5mm deep fans instead of the standard 25. Is this a good idea to go push pull, or would anyone have a better plan? Thanks in advance


----------



## robbo2

Hey guys, I picked up a AMD board yesterday that has no cpu retention bracket so I am looking for a cooler. Can someone please tell me if mounting this requires the cpu retention bracket for AMD? Would be much appreciated

Nevermind! Found some pictures and it doesn't need the original bracket. Will pick one up today


----------



## granno21

So I have had my 620 with the stock fan oriented horizontally on the top of my case for 4 months now after having it oriented vertical for 6 months. The fan now rattles annoyingly at lower speeds. Is this fan not meant to be placed horizontally?

What is a good replacement that is quiet, will last if placed horizontally, but still pushes air

I was thinking:

NZXT ~ $10

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039825LM?m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=at055-20

Or

Nexus Real Silent D12SL-12 ~ $13

http://www.coolerguys.com/840556054078.html

Or

Corsair Air Series SP120 Quiet Edition CO-9050006-WW 120mm Twin Pack High Static Pressure Case Fan ~ $13 each

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835181025

Thoughts?


----------



## Zakarof

First time water cooler here. I've been skimming this thread and get the feeling my temperatures are a bit abnormal. I'm using the 920 (exhausting) on an i7 3770K that is currently at default settings. The only things I've changed in my BIOS is to turn RAID on, turn off CPU fan control, and select the XMP profile for me memory. Running the latest version of Prime95 in Windows 7 x64 with both the Antec software running (version 1.2) as well as CPUID HWMonitor Pro version 1.14 gives me the following:

Ambient Temp: 17C
Coolant (Idle): 33C
Coolant (Load): 37C
Pump RPM: 3000
CPU (Idle): 33C
CPU (Load): 70C
Motherboard: 28-30C

Fans are set to 30/42 in the Antec software respectively. As far as I can tell the water block is making good contact. I purchased some Innovation Cooling IC24 thermal compound when I bought all my parts, but never used it. I'm thinking of reseating the block with the IC24 applied, though I can't see this making a huge difference. I'm a bit concerned because I haven't even begun overclocking anything, plus with Prime95 my video card isn't involved so no extra heat is coming from that yet.

Fans: Two filtered 120mm intakes running at 1150 RPM on the front of my Lian Li PC-8FIB case (the ones that came with it), a Corsair AF140 Quiet Edition 140mm exhaust fan at 900 RPM at the top of the case, and the two fans that came with the 920 configured to exhaust air from the case (which feels quite cool on my hand, even under load).


----------



## stickg1

What do you use to monitor temps?

Those are really high load temps, especially for 17c ambient temp. Try using HWinfo64 and report back with results. If it's still high then the coldplate isn't seated all the way.


----------



## williamfan

Hi everyone. i'm new here. I have a reference GTX670 and the fan spins so loud and temperature is still very high. i just bought a 620 cooler and thinking of putting it on my GTX670 using zip-ties. would u guys think it's going to be a lot quiter and temperature would drop a lot comparing to reference cooler? has anyone done this before, or if there are any tips i can get from u guys? thx so much


----------



## famous1994

Add me, I have a 620 with push/pull config.

Pic for proof:


----------



## s1xty7

Ordered a 620 when it was on sale at NCIX for $40 the other day. I intended to use it to replace my 212+ on my 3770K, but the advantages didn't seem huge compared to the advantages of mounting the 620 on my 7970.







Right now it is setup to exhaust with a Cougar 1200RPM fan in push and a 38mm spacer (gutted Foxconn fan) with foam window seal around all the joins. Seems to do great and aside from a little initial gurgle, it has been perfectly quiet. Now I just need to get another for my 3770K as originally planned.




s1xty7


----------



## stickg1

Nice work! Did you mount it with zip-ties? Also keep in mind that the coolers on GPUs cool more than just the core, they cool the VRMs and memory as well, I would recommend getting heatsinks for those and getting a fan to blow on them.


----------



## s1xty7

Yea, zip ties for now. Its a PowerColor Vortex II 7970 so the VRMs came from the factory with individual heat sinks (six pointed rectangles in the first pic). The RAM was uncooled from the factory though (just some air blowing on them, no sinks) so I have some heat sinks from the Accelero Extreme 7970 kit on the way. I also have a Dwoods bracket with a mount for a 120mm fan over the VRMs that I'm waiting for. As it sits, needing a reseat once the bracket arrives, it idles at 28C and 30C VRMs and load is 62C and 68C VRMs after a few minutes running Furmark. Factory clocks of 1100MHz core and 1425MHz memory. Will definitely go up after getting reseated and the heat sinks applied to the VRAM.

As for the list for the members, even in Chrome, I don't see a way to add myself. Maybe I'm just being dense.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Temps on my Phenom II 965 dropped significantly after a lapping and reseat with arctic silver 5. Under load I'm getting 39 to 40 degrees on "cpu core" and 32 on the Antec liquid software. I couldn't believe the difference between that and the stock applied paste that came on the block. Now just waiting for the Asatek dual cpu/gpu unit to install on my 6850/6870's and also have some plain copper sinks for the vrm's and gpu memory. Kind of curious what the temps will do after adding a 40 buck 120 rad by koolance and a dual bay res with 3 block/pump units using the silver to seat them! Will post pics of the custom loop build.


----------



## crazyponytail

Hey guys! Please help me, im getting a message in the antec controller software that says: "fan speed has gone below alarm limit". It also reads the fan RPM as 0. This is in the extreme mode, if I change it to custom or silence, then it says that my rpm is at 320. So, if I go to extreme, 0 rpm, custom 300 and silent 320. This is just so weird.

The fans are running. But something is obviously wrong.

The fans are spinning, so thats false.

When checking under device manager and USB I can see the the ANTEC CC. So the usb cable should be correctly installed.

Also if I start up any program like core temp etc, it says that my temp is 0 degrees. In the antec program is says 30 which is quite good.

What is going on, why is it showing that the fans are running at 0 rpm? Why cant is my temp listed as 0 in coretemp etc?

IM SCARED
















http://imageshack.us/a/img201/6501/imscared.jpg (Screenshot)


----------



## ArchDevil

How is the: Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra 100% Metal Thermal?

Is it even compatible with the 620??


----------



## PCEnthusiast85

will be picking up all three within the next week and modding them. anyone else done this with the antec kits?

my system is currently on a full loop of Corsair mods but since they stopped production of the H70 im switching over to antec. The h60 80 and 100 series from Corsair just SUCK for flow. i had an h100 on my cpu but after doing some testing i just threw it away and scrapped my 2nd gpu's h70 for the cpu.

my h70s are pretty much the exact same thing as all the antec kits so im hoping to see just as good of temps with them as i have seen with the corsair mods.


----------



## crazyponytail

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyponytail*
> 
> Hey guys! Please help me, im getting a message in the antec controller software that says: "fan speed has gone below alarm limit". It also reads the fan RPM as 0. This is in the extreme mode, if I change it to custom or silence, then it says that my rpm is at 320. So, if I go to extreme, 0 rpm, custom 300 and silent 320. This is just so weird.
> The fans are running. But something is obviously wrong.
> The fans are spinning, so thats false.
> When checking under device manager and USB I can see the the ANTEC CC. So the usb cable should be correctly installed.
> Also if I start up any program like core temp etc, it says that my temp is 0 degrees. In the antec program is says 30 which is quite good.
> What is going on, why is it showing that the fans are running at 0 rpm? Why cant is my temp listed as 0 in coretemp etc?
> IM SCARED
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imageshack.us/a/img201/6501/imscared.jpg (Screenshot)


So, I just called Antec support. And...

The guy told me I should return the product to get a new one.

Seems it is faulty.


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crazyponytail*
> 
> So, I just called Antec support. And...
> The guy told me I should return the product to get a new one.
> Seems it is faulty.


I take it you already double checked all of your wiring, especially the CPU fan header on the motherboard for proper connection, and also made sure to turn off your motherboards ability to vary CPU fan speed, assuming you actually connected the three pin wire to the CPU header on said motherboard?

Did you try updating your USB drivers and also made sure you're using the latest version of Antec's software (I downloaded version 1.2 a few weeks ago for example). Have you tried running the app as admin? Have you tried playing with the USB settings in your motherboards BIOS? Have tried turning off power management for USB in Windows? That's all I can think of to check at the moment.

By the way, the temperature in the Antec software is for the liquid coolant, not the processor. It's not good to rely on that for CPU temperatures which will always be much higher, especially under load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What do you use to monitor temps?
> Those are really high load temps, especially for 17c ambient temp. Try using HWinfo64 and report back with results. If it's still high then the coldplate isn't seated all the way.


As stated in my first post I was using CUPID HWMonitor to monitor temps, along with a digital thermometer with the probe placed next to the front intakes for measuring ambient temps. Thanks for pointing out HWInfo64, I really like it. Much easier to figure which device each temperature actually belongs to. Unfortunately I'm still getting the same readings.

Following the Ivy Bridge overclocking guide here on Overclock.net, I'm up to 4.4 GHz stable with 1.2 volts on my i7 3770K (it will do 4.3 GHz at stock voltage fwiw). Turning off all of the throttling options in the BIOS results in a reading of 40 celcius when idle! I have these same options turned off in my last build, an overclocked i7 875K, and it idles at only 28 celcius on air (a Corsair A70 which never goes past 60c under load). That is a pretty big difference between the two and has me concerned. I had to crank up the two included Antec 120mm fans to obnoxious sound levels in order to keep it from going higher than 71 celcius under load with Prime95. The ambient temperature is still 17c. For reference the PCH runs around 47c to 53c, the motherboard reads 30c to 33c, and hard drives (2 SSD and 3 HDD) all say 23c to 26c according to HWinfo64 when under load. Looping 3D Mark for four hours resulted in a peak reading of 60c for my GTX 670 OC video card. I don't believe airflow through my case is an issue here, though I'm very open to other opinions.

I've ordered a 120mm dust filter so I can reverse the direction of the two Antec fans so the radiator is acting as intake instead of exhaust, with the other front two Lian Li case fans as either intake or exhaust and the 140mm Corsair fan exhausting out the top. I'm also going to replace the thermal compound (whatever it is Antec used) with the Innovation Cooling IC24 I mentioned and closely check the block to make sure it isn't concaved. I don't relish the idea of lapping, but I may just have to do that depending on what I find after it's cleaned up. I suppose I could try my Corsair A70 instead to see how it compares to the Antec 920. Not sure if I feel like doing that much work though lol.


----------



## s1xty7

Zakarof, my 620 had a pretty significant offset convex surface (bulge in the upper left quadrant when looking at the mating surface with hoses facing down). Even after 2 hours of lapping with 400 and 600 grit, it was only level until the inner edges of the screw recesses. I thought about picking up some 220 and 320 grit sandpaper to work on getting the full face even. From the way most people describe lapping the Antec coolers, it usually goes a lot smoother and quicker than that. But its been years since I lapped so maybe I was just being too tenuous and timid about it.


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1xty7*
> 
> Zakarof, my 620 had a pretty significant offset convex surface (bulge in the upper left quadrant when looking at the mating surface with hoses facing down). Even after 2 hours of lapping with 400 and 600 grit, it was only level until the inner edges of the screw recesses. I thought about picking up some 220 and 320 grit sandpaper to work on getting the full face even. From the way most people describe lapping the Antec coolers, it usually goes a lot smoother and quicker than that. But its been years since I lapped so maybe I was just being too tenuous and timid about it.


My 920 has a significant convex surface too, right in the dead center. I'm assuming this is by design since a lot of manufacturers seem to be going that way these days. When running my fingernail across it, I can tell it's very rough too, more so than any other cooler I've ever worked with. From what I can tell without taking it out of it's socket, the heat spreader on my 3770K is pretty flat as is. Probably not perfectly so, but likely good enough for mating well to a properly flat cooler. I would think maximum contact over the entire surface area of the heat spreader would be more important than making maximum contact with just the center, where most of the core is located.

Lapping is a pretty big step and one that voids warranties, so I think I'm just going to test it reseated first with (hopefully) better TIM and the fans reversed. I haven't tried this yet because I refuse to run it without a good filter in place. There is just too much cat hair floating around, despite my best efforts to keep it vacuumed up and away from my new PC. I ordered a ModRight FilterRight from the US which should arrive sometime this week. It's the only one that looks like it will fit on the back of my case without interfering with the side panel, the back edge of which sits very close to the screw holes for the fan. If nothing else, I should have excellent positive pressure when I'm done lol.









Anyways thanks for the comments. It's good to know what kind of obstacles I may face if I do end up lapping things. I find the process nerve wracking and tend to be very timid as well. The one time I did do it though, with a 2.66GHz Pentium 4 and Zalman cooler, the results turned out to be quite amazing, making it worth the risk and effort. Did you see a significant change in temperatures when you lapped your Antec, or was it a bust? Again, thanks for the comments!


----------



## JRuxGaming

Hey I am doing research into upgrading my PC in the Spring. I seem to like the 920. How does the 3770K run under the 920 compared to air cooling? How much cooler and is there a better overclocking experience?


----------



## Macke93

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JRuxGaming*
> 
> Hey I am doing research into upgrading my PC in the Spring. I seem to like the 920. How does the 3770K run under the 920 compared to air cooling? How much cooler and is there a better overclocking experience?


If I remember right those new Ivy bridge CPU's run quite hot, so the 920 should be excellent choise! Comparing watercooling to air cooling is hard, everybody like different things, but in my opinion watercooling is the only choise when you want quiet system and maximum performance and cooling, theres a lot tests of the 920 on the web, just browse around


----------



## s1xty7

I've been contacted with a couple of questions about the installation of the Kuhler on the 7970 so I thought I would provide some brief notes here of my process and installation for reference. This is cross posted in the AMD "The Mod" thread for reference. I use the same "tinning" process described below when installing CPU coolers.

*IMPORTANT: I'm not responsible for any damage that may occur. It is possible to crack your core or otherwise kill your card or other items when doing this kind of mod.*

The shim I used was from EK. I picked it up for $3.99 at FrozenCPU (part # ex-blc-1051) http://www.frozencpu.com/products/14971/ex-blc-1051/EK-VGA_Supreme_HF_HD7970_Cu_Adapter.html. I believe Dwoods, a member here on OCN that sells GPU brackets for the different closed loop coolers, also has a shim he sells for $2, which would be good if you were ordering something else from him. The brackets seem like they provide a little more pressure on the core than the zip ties do, which should aid in lowering temperatures. Be careful not to apply too much pressure due to possible damage occurring. If using a bracket, I believe it is encouraged to use the springs that came with your factory cooling solution that prevent too much pressure from being applied. Please consult your bracket manufacturer for proper installation instructions.

As for TIM installation, at first I cleaned all surfaces with a bit of acetone, tinned both sides of the shim and the surface of the closed loop cooler, and then did a BB sized drop of thermal compound between the core and shim and the shim and Kuhler. The resultant sequence is core -> TIM -> shim -> TIM -> Kuhler. Tinning is a term borrowed from soldering and refers to, in this context, spreading the TIM across the entirety of all mating surfaces and then wiping it off prior to application of the BB sized drop. What this does, in theory, is fill in any small imperfections with TIM, thus providing a more uniform surface. It may not seem like it is doing much, but take a perfectly "flat" surface, like a heat sink, and try it. Even if it doesn't seem like anything happened, compare the color to an untreated surface and you'll notice it has a tint similar to the color of the TIM being used. I don't know that this is a necessary step, but it is the process I have always followed. In practice, the TIM will likely fill these imperfections upon application, but the BB size drop may not fully expand to the outer edges of the chip. In that particular instance, this practice should provide a more thermally conductive surface where it would otherwise be metal on metal (or silicon on metal) which may have imperfections that are not thermally conductive.

There is more than one way to accomplish the same task, but maybe this will help someone or at least provide another perspective.


----------



## JRuxGaming

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> If I remember right those new Ivy bridge CPU's run quite hot, so the 920 should be excellent choise! Comparing watercooling to air cooling is hard, everybody like different things, but in my opinion watercooling is the only choise when you want quiet system and maximum performance and cooling, theres a lot tests of the 920 on the web, just browse around


Cool, thank you very much.


----------



## grunion

I got a 620 from Amazon for $49.99.

My Megahalems becomes overwhelmed at 4.8/1.38v with my IB.
Will the 620 do better than the Megahalems?
Keep in mind this is an OG Mega, not a super, just the original.
If not then I'll just use the 620 on my FX-6100.


----------



## dizzyraider

Haven't tried Megahalems, but from everything I read it is still a capable cooler with powerful fans. Truthfully, IB runs HOT at anything over 1.3. I have had the H60 and now a lapped Water 2.0 Pro on my 3570K, I'm pretty sure the 620 won't be able to handle the 1.38 heat knowing that my Water Pro will also be borderline even if it makes it.


----------



## bmgjet

Stick the megahalems fans on the 620 and it should be better.
Even more so with some good thermal compound and a lapping.


----------



## grunion

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

I'll use my Panaflo fans since I don't have to worry about ram clearance.


----------



## grunion

Well I could only only get 1 Panaflo set up, not enough screws.
As is, stock thermal paste the 620 is a couple °c better than the Megahalems.

Just a quick 10 min P95 run on both with identical settings, same ambient.
I'm beginning to think that I have the worst clocking 3570K on OCN.
I can't get 48x stable at all, my 2500K on this board was rock solid at 48x.


----------



## M3TAl

All you 620/920 guys with Piledrivers need to let us know how they're handling the heat!!! Temps and max OC's.

Grunion, you should try experimenting with rad+fan positions... Rear exhaust wasn't very good temps for me. Have a look at my 8 various setups I tested. Antec 620 8 rad setups tested.


----------



## stickg1

I squeezed off a Cinebench run at 4.8GHz with my Piledriver on a 620 Kuhler. Not prime stable. I'm running 4.5GHz for a 24/7 OC with a max temp of 52C.


----------



## M3TAl

Guess these kuhlers are too weak to get to 5ghz







. Too much heat for them! I wonder if there will be any new revision/stepping like with Deneb C2 to C3.


----------



## stickg1

Might be my chip too. Seems like the sweet spot is 4.5GHz because after that I have to add excessive voltage. Although at 4.5GHz and 1.41v my temps are really low.


----------



## M3TAl

Well you know how people are hating on the Giga boards in the owners thread. They'll tell you go get a saber or crosshair.


----------



## stickg1

Yeah they just don't know how to use the Giga. Sometimes a non-UEFI BIOS can be intimidating. I'm used to them. I had a crosshair about 7 months ago that I ran a pII x4 980 on for a while. I ended up selling it and getting an i5-2500k and an asrock z68 extreme3.

The giga boards are fine you just have to know how to work with them.


----------



## bmgjet

My lapped 920 handles the 8350 fine, Can go up to 1.55V and im only starting to touch on 60C.
Can only get 4.75ghz tho and core 7 fails when the voltage droops to 1.45V because iv got a UD3 R1.0 with no LLC and the voltage is all over the place under load.


----------



## stickg1

How do you know exactly how to lap the Kuhler? I understand the concept but how do you get it exactly flat? Or how do you know its perfectly flat?


----------



## M3TAl

Well you have to find an as close to flat as possible surface. Also you can mark on the lowest portion of the heatsink with a pen or something. When the mark you made on the heatsink disappears it's as close to flat as you're going to get it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hi there guys,

I'll write up a guide over here for the 920 installation on the Z77.

However got a quick question about the software, as this is what mine shows - without any sound levels - is that normal?


----------



## bmgjet

If your using 3 pin fans in the four pin plug mine doesnt show sound on mine.
How I lap it is on a mirror and a sprit level on top to make sure your not leaning it since the base can be quite convex.
10 passes in each direction then re-wet the sand paper and have a look at the bottom.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I changed the direction of my Antec.
I think this way is better right?
The way I have it now.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I changed the direction of my Antec.
> I think this way is better right?
> The way I have it now.


I have to say, I love your case!! It has a perfect spot to mount the 920 under the dvd drive bays and above the hdd cages. That way it draws in fresh air. I had to mount mine in the dvd bay under the burner because the center hdd cages don't come out. If I had urs tho, I'd surely mount it in front and put my Lepa Casino 1c fan there as push. Just a suggestion tho as I have a rteal issue with putting them at the exhaust position due to them taking up so much space and covering the mobo. You do have a exceptionally clean build though I must say..!! Corsair fans on ur 920?? Here's how mine is, for reference:







I am sorry for all these pics but wanted to show ya it before mounting (after painting the rad) and how it basically hides the entire rad assy. All that really shows is the tubes. I just used the stock antec fan for pull but will soon be adding another lepa there after switching cases. Thanks guys.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> I have to say, I love your case!! It has a perfect spot to mount the 920 under the dvd drive bays and above the hdd cages. That way it draws in fresh air. I had to mount mine in the dvd bay under the burner because the center hdd cages don't come out.
> I am sorry for all these pics but wanted to show ya it before mounting (after painting the rad) and how it basically hides the entire rad assy. All that really shows is the tubes. I just used the stock antec fan for pull but will soon be adding another lepa there after switching cases. Thanks guys.


wow that is very interesting!
I think it would never reach to go to the DVD bays, nor fit properly.

Thanks for the compliment though!
This was and is only my second build ever









Oh and yes indeed - that's 2x SP120 quiet editions on the antec.


----------



## M3TAl

Looks like it would fit to me. It really is worth trying. Run 20min Prime95 or any stability/bench program of your choice for ~20min to get some good heat going. Then move your rad and test again. Compare temps. Sometimes you can get a 3-5C drop in cpu temps.


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## oldcompgeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> wow that is very interesting!
> I think it would never reach to go to the DVD bays, nor fit properly.
> Thanks for the compliment though!
> This was and is only my second build ever
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh and yes indeed - that's 2x SP120 quiet editions on the antec.


Yeah, I wasn't thinkin' that It'd fit in ur dvd bay, was just eyeing the xtra space that ur case has inbetween the dvd bays and the hdd bays to put it there. In my new zalman case, my ol lady and I were going to try an take out the same area of hdd cages to put it in that spot too but the dang zalman z11 plus cases have rivets holding it together so it was a no go. It's all a moot point now anyway as I have a new case coming now--FINALLY lol. I've been through a Sentey Arvina and now a Zalman Z11 plus HF1 trying to get a good fit for now plus future upgrades but ... the new Xigmatek Elesium will have the room and then some! I can put a triple up top if i wanted in this big ol case! Heres a link as it's on sale marked down from over $200 to $139!!!!

http://www.microcenter.com/product/364204/Elysium-Window_Black_Full_Tower_ATX_Computer_Case


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> Yeah, I wasn't thinkin' that It'd fit in ur dvd bay, was just eyeing the xtra space that ur case has inbetween the dvd bays and the hdd bays to put it there. In my new zalman case, my ol lady and I were going to try an take out the same area of hdd cages to put it in that spot too but the dang zalman z11 plus cases have rivets holding it together so it was a no go. It's all a moot point now anyway as I have a new case coming now--FINALLY lol. I've been through a Sentey Arvina and now a Zalman Z11 plus HF1 trying to get a good fit for now plus future upgrades but ... the new Xigmatek Elesium will have the room and then some! I can put a triple up top if i wanted in this big ol case! Heres a link as it's on sale marked down from over $200 to $139!!!!
> http://www.microcenter.com/product/364204/Elysium-Window_Black_Full_Tower_ATX_Computer_Case


Haha cool


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> If your using 3 pin fans in the four pin plug mine doesnt show sound on mine.
> How I lap it is on a mirror and a sprit level on top to make sure your not leaning it since the base can be quite convex.
> 10 passes in each direction then re-wet the sand paper and have a look at the bottom.


What grit sand paper? And you need to wet it first? So I just go 10 swipes left to right and then 10 swipes up to down and repeat if necessary? And this is by hand right not with a palm or disc sander?


----------



## M3TAl

I've never lapped a cpu but have looked into it greatly for the past year or so. Most people start with 200 or 400 grit and work up. How high up? Depends on how shiny you want it to be. Also a good tip I read about is to start with emery cloth (basically sand paper made for sanding metal) instead of 200/400 sandpaper. This stuff lasts a long time and greatly reduces the amount of time required to lap a cpu. Normally you will go through a lot of sandpaper in the beginning and it's slow going. Emery cloth speeds up the process.


----------



## stickg1

I was going to lap the cold plate on my kuhler. Or should I be trying to lap the cold plate and the CPU? I dont think I will lap the CPU because I dont want to lose the print on it in case I sell it. I go through hardware pretty quick.


----------



## bmgjet

Start with 500 and needs to be wet so it sticks to the mirror (glass) with out moving also keeps the paper from blocking up as fast.
Just keep doing that until you can see its sanding the whole bottom instead of just the high points.
Use as many pieces as it takes, Mine was 2 with washing the paper every few repeats.

Then I go to 800 and use that to make it look evenly sanded on the bottom instead of having slight groves from the 500.
Only takes 1 piece if you kept your strokes in each direction even with the 500.

Lastly I use 1000 until its got no sanding marks at all on it.
I use to do a 2000 grit pass as well but didnt give any better results and just added more time to something thats taking 40mins to do already.

Then stick the thermal compound on the correct way.
If its on a die spread it
if its on a IHS then a dot the size of a grain of rice in the middle and install the cooler evenly (each screw 2 turns in a star pattern)
Dont use too much since that the base is even and smooth now it will be pushed out to the edge of the chip filling in the imperfections on the IHS.
And the excess will spill out.

What I do about the radiator is strap it to my arm so Im not putting any stress on the hoses/fitting.

--

I never lap the cpu either because then its harder to sell if you still cant get the results you want.


----------



## stickg1

Dang, I'm a carpenter and I got all sorts of sand paper but its all 80-220 grit! I'll get some really fine stuff then. What are your results, how much of a temp improvement?


----------



## bmgjet

5-7C difference but hard to tell since there was 1 hour between sticking the lapped 620 on and benchmarking while I lapped the 920.
But if anything air temp would of gone up.

Had done the 620 first and with the same fans as the 920 with its stock paste it was beating it by 2-3C Then did the 920 and it then was beating the lapped 620 by 4-5C.


----------



## stickg1

nice! I'm gonna lap this thing! I don't think I have a spare mirror handy. I got a piece of glass I can throw on my work bench I assume this will work too?


----------



## s1xty7

Glass should work. I used a piece of smooth marble I got at the store for like $5 and put some non-skid carpet stuff under to keep it from sliding on my workbench (ok, it was my coffee table while watching some tv). I also taped the sandpaper to the marble with scotch tape but packing tape is supposed to hold better. I only pulled it out of the tape once after several hours (my 920 was SUPER convex). I started with 220 grit (ended up using 4 sheets cut in half with 400 - 800 passes per half), then 320, then 400, then 600. Beyond 600, I have not found anywhere that shows proof of any thermal benefit, I have found several places that seem to mention making a mirror polish and the thermal paste acting as more of a barrier than a help in those instances. As a result, I only used up to 600 grit. If I could find evidence of any benefit with a higher grit, I'd do it. The key thing you are looking for is flat, not specifically smooth. Also, keeping the surface wet helps the item being lapped glide across the surface. If it skips on a dry surface, you will end up with a slightly beveled edge, which I have on my 920 from having to make so many passes but it is less than a mm so I'm confident the thermal performance will not be measurably affected. Keep in mind, most CPUs seem to be concave and you are attempting to remove a convex surface from the cooler. There is a slight chance your cooling could be worse after lapping, but that doesn't seem to be the case with any level of modern hardware, especially if using a decent TIM. Do all the rough shaping at your roughest grit, and once the whole surface is flat, smooth it out with your finer stuff. Remember to rotate every X number of strokes (more frequent when doing the finer grits) and you should be good.


----------



## s1xty7

Sorry for the crappy cell pics but its late and I really just wanted to get a couple pictures of the rough version of my updated setup posted.

i7-3770K with Antec 920 using two Cougar CF-V12HPB PWM fans in push pull and a 38mm spacer.

PowerColor 7970 with Antec 620 using a single Cougar CF-V12HB in push.





No cleanup or customization of fan profiles, etc yet, but its all up and running. Woo! Waiting on the Dwoods bracket to finish the 620 install and get this baby organized.

Quick bench tests:

2 min Furmark @ 1125/1600 in 1080P w/ 8x MSAA (GPU temps). Min: 28C, Max 55C
4 min IBT @ 4.3 w/ stock volts (CPU temps) Min: 28C avg, Max: 68/76/74/68

I need to finish lapping the 620 and reseat with Phobya HeGrease after the bracket gets here. As for the CPU, I think I probably need a reseat as well. This was the first mount and my temps aren't as low as I'd like. All in all, a little more sorting out but seems like a decent place to start. And none of that excessive fan spin up of the pre-Kuhler days.


----------



## M3TAl

I ordered 8 of those PWM cougars on Sunday $10 each! How is the performance P/P vs stock fan? And the "shroud" did you test with and without it? Make any difference in temps? I could maybe trash an old 25mm fan to use as a shroud or is that too thin?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

920 owners,

When your PC goes off - does your antec 920 light stay on?
Mine does...I'm wondering if that's normal?

Never had it on usually, but thought for a change.


----------



## s1xty7

So far I really like the Cougars. I have more of the non PWM ones and am only using the PWMs I do have for the 920 in push/pull and as the fan for my 7970 when my Dwoods bracket arrives (got one with a 120mm mount). All seem to be relatively quiet for me (certainly not silent with the case side off). As for the push/pull and shroud thing, I never used the stock fans and I haven't tried it without the shroud yet. The little I've read about it seems to help because it eliminates the dead spot where the center of the fan is if mounted directly against the radiator. Seemed like sound logic so I just went with it. I don't know if there is any difference in the thickness of the shroud as long as the air has room to "expand" to make up for the fan center. Once I get things a little more finalized and setup, I'll probably do some comparisons to see the benefits with everything else being static.

As for the 920 light, I've only played with the 920 for a few hours, but yes the light stays on unless I flip the master switch on the PSU.


----------



## M3TAl

Some tests would be most excellent!

I've read a little bit on shrouds. Some people seem to believe 25mm not big enough and still leaves a dead spot and that ~40mm is optimal. Just don't want to sacrifice a 25mm fan if there won't really be any benefit.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Some tests would be most excellent!
> I've read a little bit on shrouds. Some people seem to believe 25mm not big enough and still leaves a dead spot and that ~40mm is optimal. Just don't want to sacrifice a 25mm fan if there won't really be any benefit.












Martin did testing on this - http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/01/15/radiator-shroud-testing-v2/


----------



## Zakarof

Well my ModRight filter took a lot longer to arrive than expected. Don't think I'll be ordering anything from the US again if I can help it. Cat hair is my biggest concern and this should be good enough. Regular every day dust isn't really much of an issue here thankfully.



It will be interesting to see how temperatures compare with my push/pull configured fans drawing cool air into the case instead of exhausting warm air out. Hopefully it won't add too much heat to the other components. There is the 140mm blow hole fan exhausting right there as the air exits the radiator so I'm hoping warm air won't even get the chance to pool in that area.

I know I said I wasn't going to do any lapping until I had experimented with fan configurations first, but I got bored waiting for the filter lol. So rather than put my PC back together for more testing like I should have done, especially with the time limit on my express RMA so close to running out, I went and picked up some sand paper instead (120, 220, 400, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 3000 in all). I used Gorilla Tape to hold the sheets of sand paper to one of those full length mirrors and while laying beside it on the floor, carefully drew the cooler towards me with one hand while holding up the radiator up with the other. I found 40 strokes in that one single direction (20 for grittier papers), followed by turning it 90 degrees clockwise, worked best. I actually started out with 400 grit but quickly realized it wouldn't be enough for getting the copper plate flat. After trying 220, I settled on 120 grit while trying to be as careful as possible. Even four 8x10 sheets of that and another four of the 220 grit wasn't enough though. In the end I only managed to get approximately 90% of the copper plate flat. I did pay close attention to it's shape as it was slowly ground down, which allowed me to create a topographical map to show what I had to deal with in case anyone is interested:



Red is highest, while purple is the lowest. Turns out I was wrong about the location of the convex shape on my Kuhler 920 when I originally checked it with a ruler. As you can see it was actually off center a bit. The purple area along the top of that image is what I wasn't able to flatten. I supposed I actually could have, but it would mean grinding down four screws on the opposing side a lot more than I feel comfortable with seeing as they are already ground down a bit. The most important areas are flat enough, to the point they're a mirror finish. I didn't plan on going past 2000 grit, but the paper was very inexpensive so I figured what the heck, might as well go OCD on it lol.

I also rechecked the 3770K a few more times and it's definitely flat already, so I highly doubt I'll lap it provided things go well temperature-wise. Unlike the CPU, the Kuhler is at least still covered by it's warranty according to Antec, so long as any claims made aren't the result of the lapping that's been done. I took extra care to cover all the cords in a heavy duty ziploc bag which I tied off with a rubber band, and used the low tack putty for hanging posters to block the hole where those wires came out of, making sure to remove it all when I was done. That way copper dust couldn't get inside; good thing too because there was a fair bit of the stuff embedded in it when I was done, despite the fact I had used compressed air to blow it all off between papers. All my sanding was done dry until I got to the high grit papers (the 3000, made by 3M, can't be used dry according to it's packaging).

As for the IC24 thermal compound, I boiled some water, filled a hot water bottle with it, then laid that on top of the syringe with some fabric between them and an insulting blanket covering everything. After leaving it this way for 40 minutes, I pulled out the syringe and applied a very small amount of the compound to both the copper plate and CPU heat spreader, which I rubbed in until there was only an ultra thin haze. Even heated to make it more malleable, this compound was extremely difficult to apply. I'm sure it will be worth the effort and cost however as reviews all show the same excellent results After squeezing out a pea size blob of it on the center of the CPU, I mounted the Kuhler with only slight difficulty. The IC24 is rubbery and doesn't have much give, so even though the mounting bracket was unscrewed enough to dismount the cooler, it had to be unscrewed further (to the point it was nearly off altogether) to allow the plate to be remounted.

All I need to do now is start her up to do some stress testing. Before I do, does anyone know what type of liquid the Antec Kuhler H2O 920 is filled with? What I'd like to know primarily is whether the liquid contained within is electrically conductive or not. I probably don't have anything to worry about seeing as I was very careful every step of the way, plus I am going to run the system on it's side for a few days so any potential leaks drip out of the case, not into it. Even so it would still be nice to know prior to powering up, just so I have some idea what to expect should the unthinkable happen. I'm Googling for an answer but haven't been able to find one as of yet. Thanks in advance!

PS: Sorry for the long post. I'm just trying to be thorough in documenting everything that's happened up until now.


----------



## dizzyraider

make sure to check and see if you need to add spacers to the mount if you had to take a good amount off the cold plate to make it flat. Mine didn't provide enough pressure after so I just ended up using an extra Corsair H60 back plate that I had instead. I would imagine using nylon washers between the back plate and the mb would also work to give you the needed pressure.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 920 owners,
> When your PC goes off - does your antec 920 light stay on?
> Mine does...I'm wondering if that's normal?
> Never had it on usually, but thought for a change.


no other replies....anyone with a little more time with the 920?


----------



## dizzyraider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> no other replies....anyone with a little more time with the 920?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *s1xty7*
> 
> So far I really like the Cougars. I have more of the non PWM ones and am only using the PWMs I do have for the 920 in push/pull and as the fan for my 7970 when my Dwoods bracket arrives (got one with a 120mm mount). All seem to be relatively quiet for me (certainly not silent with the case side off). As for the push/pull and shroud thing, I never used the stock fans and I haven't tried it without the shroud yet. The little I've read about it seems to help because it eliminates the dead spot where the center of the fan is if mounted directly against the radiator. Seemed like sound logic so I just went with it. I don't know if there is any difference in the thickness of the shroud as long as the air has room to "expand" to make up for the fan center. Once I get things a little more finalized and setup, I'll probably do some comparisons to see the benefits with everything else being static.
> As for the 920 light, I've only played with the 920 for a few hours, but *yes the light stays on unless I flip the master switch on the PSU*.


I personally went with a Water2.0 because I wasn't into the light or usb control so I wouldn't be able to ya


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dizzyraider*
> 
> I personally went with a Water2.0 because I wasn't into the light or usb control so I wouldn't be able to ya


indeed I was asking someone who has owned it for a while - maybe has a little more insight that me and the fellow poster


----------



## bmgjet

Light is always on on mine unless I unplug the USB port or use a USB port thats disabled on poweroff.

Instead of using a spacer just sand the plastic bits in the bracket down a bit then you get more pressure. Or you can bend the bracket if your careful but I broke one like that.


----------



## adi518

Hey guys, can anyone tell me how many screw pieces you get with the Kuhler 620? I'm repacking mine for selling it and I'm afraid I may include some unrelated screws in the box (since I just opened it and they were there).


----------



## bmgjet

2 brackets
8 plastic things (2 different colours)
4 bracket screws
4 fan screws
1 fan
1 back plate.
1 booklet

What my 620s came with


----------



## adi518

Weird, you didn't get a set of 4 short screws with 4 washers? or a set of 5 screws with one being shorter than the others?

I'll you tell why.. I just went to youtube and checked some unboxing videos and on one of them I can see the bunch of screws that have but never used. By that I mean other screws than the 4 bracket screws, those are obvious and I have them.


----------



## bmgjet

Oh yeah I had washers but not short screws for mounting it. Instructions in the booklet thing said to use the long screws though the case and fan into the radiator. Not that I ever mounted it to the case since Iv got no room.


----------



## adi518

Damn. I have no clue where these short screw pieces came from. :\


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Light is always on on mine unless I unplug the USB port or use a USB port thats disabled on poweroff.
> Instead of using a spacer just sand the plastic bits in the bracket down a bit then you get more pressure. Or you can bend the bracket if your careful but I broke one like that.


Thanks for the confirmation!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Damn. I have no clue where these short screw pieces came from. :\


This is exactly what I got in mine - for the 920:

http://www.back2gaming.com/wp-content/gallery/antec-kuhler-h2o-620/antec_kuhler_h2o_620_review_0009.jpg


----------



## M3TAl

Just got all 8 of my PWM Cougar fans running, including 2 on rad for push/pull. Pretty much 2-3C drop in CPU and VRM temps.

20min Prime95 Blend test results:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



4 Cooler Master fans, 2 Xigmatek fans, Antec rad fan:
6 PWM Cougars as case fans, 2 PWM Cougars rad fans P/P:


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> This is exactly what I got in mine - for the 920:
> http://www.back2gaming.com/wp-content/gallery/antec-kuhler-h2o-620/antec_kuhler_h2o_620_review_0009.jpg


They must have changed the screws and brackets. Mine are green, blue, etc... color coded for amd/intel. And the screws for the mounting bracket feel really cheap. Not sure they're actually even metal







.


----------



## Zakarof

I think someone else replied a few days ago about the light staying on, which is why I didn't say anything last time I commented. Yeah like bmgjet said it's perfectly normal if you have USB ports that stay powered even though the system is shut down. Turning off the power supply (and unplugging it for good measure) will cut power to everything completely should you need to handle anything inside your PC.

No leaks after lapping thankfully. There is a strange 10C difference between the cores while under load now though. Cores 1 and 4 are running much cooler than cores 2 and 3 according to HWinfo64 while using Prime 95 in maximum heat generating mode. Ambient air temp is still 17C and cores 2 and 3 still hover near the 71C mark, while cores 1 and 4 seem to stay at or below 60C for the most part. The ramp in the Antec software is set to 20C / 35C respectively, so my 920 is cooling as well as it possibly can without getting too noisy (running between 1450 and 1800 RPM's which I find to be borderline for noise).

So either my lapping did manage to change something, or more likely the block is just seated slightly better than before. I didn't do as good of a job with the IC24 as I would have liked unfortunately. It was just so much harder to work with than Arctic Silver. My guess is that my nearly pea sized blob in the center of the heat spreader didn't spread out at all like one would expect, and is responsible for the radical temperature difference between my cores. I'll have to find a photo of the 3770K's die to be certain. Other theories are more than welcome at this point lol. I know some variation between cores is normal, but my difference seems fairly significant.

Great point about adding spacers to the plastic back plate. I may indeed have to do that based on the results I'm now seeing. I suppose it could also be that Intel's choice in using thermal grease inside the 3770K is the biggest limiting factor and nothing I do short of delidding the thing will help. Not sure I'm confident enough to do that though. The comment about sanding the plastic bracket confuses me unfortunately. Wouldn't that make it harder to get good contact between the copper plate and heat spreader?


----------



## bmgjet

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They must have changed the screws and brackets. Mine are green, blue, etc... color coded for amd/intel. And the screws for the mounting bracket feel really cheap. Not sure they're actually even metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


My 620 ones are plastic, 920 ones are metal.

The plastic bits im talking about are the ones that go into the bracket.
Sanding them down allows the bracket to put more pressure before they touch the mobo and dont allow any more screwing with out stripping the screws.


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> The plastic bits im talking about are the ones that go into the bracket.
> Sanding them down allows the bracket to put more pressure before they touch the mobo and dont allow any more screwing with out stripping the screws.


Ok I see it now, thanks. I wonder which option is better; grinding down those plastic pegs or adding four nylon washers to the backplate. Both perhaps? I definitely did get the feeling both times I attached the block that the resistance, upon tightening the screws, was coming from somewhere other than the copper plate against the heat spreader. I remember being disappointed at Antec's plastic bracket when I first opened the packaging for the 920. and especially when I put the included bits together. It definitely could have been designed better. The fact that it has to warp a bit in order to fit into the four holes in the motherboard certainly says something as well. I'm starting to wonder if I wouldn't have been better off sticking to air cooling lol.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They must have changed the screws and brackets. Mine are green, blue, etc... color coded for amd/intel. And the screws for the mounting bracket feel really cheap. Not sure they're actually even metal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


yup, in EVERY GUIDE and review, they are green and blue - I suppose that's the old system, as someone on youtube, like me was wondering why his was different.
I reasurred him that I got the same thing - they must have updated it....shame they haven't updated their darn guide - took me over 1hr to figure it out.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *adi518*
> 
> Damn. I have no clue where these short screw pieces came from. :\


The short screws and washers are for mounting the radiator directly to the case with no fan in between. This is if you wanted to run push only.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yup, in EVERY GUIDE and review, they are green and blue - I suppose that's the old system, as someone on youtube, like me was wondering why his was different.
> I reasurred him that I got the same thing - they must have updated it....shame they haven't updated their darn guide - took me over 1hr to figure it out.


I remember the first one I installed on a socket 1155 was tough to figure out. Especially because I had to put the backplate on out of square...










The instructions are really vague.

When I put my most recent one on a AM3+ chip it was simple because there's only one hole and only one way it can fit.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The short screws and washers are for mounting the radiator directly to the case with no fan in between. This is if you wanted to run push
> The instructions are really vague.
> When I put my most recent one on a AM3+ chip it was simple because there's only one hole and only one way it can fit.


Actually I got a question, regarding that backplate.
Those metal-esk screws that go into that backplate, they don't stay securely in do they?
As mine go in fine, and bite to the screws, but when I tighten the screws even more, the metal bit starts to turn within the plastic backplate.
Almost like it was never supposed to be tightened and put on there.
My 920 is rock hard on my CPU, but just thought to mention it.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Actually I got a question, regarding that backplate.
> Those metal-esk screws that go into that backplate, they don't stay securely in do they?
> As mine go in fine, and bite to the screws, but when I tighten the screws even more, the metal bit starts to turn within the plastic backplate.
> Almost like it was never supposed to be tightened and put on there.
> My 920 is rock hard on my CPU, but just thought to mention it.


What I found is the best way to tighten is just use your hands and when it catches hard that first time, that's as tight as you need to go. Otherwise you will just strip the plastic like you mentioned. Then when you want to remove the pump you will have to unscrew while you get a pair of pliers and hold the metal peg so it does not spin on you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What I found is the best way to tighten is just use your hands and when it catches hard that first time, that's as tight as you need to go. Otherwise you will just strip the plastic like you mentioned. Then when you want to remove the pump you will have to unscrew while you get a pair of pliers and hold the metal peg so it does not spin on you.


Ah ok - at least I know that I'm not the only one to have had a little worry about that backplate plastic. I'll create a guide for the Antec920 within a few days on my website and will post it here for you guys too - pics included








I made sure I took pictures when i was applying the 920, as I knew it would come in useful for others later on







!


----------



## sunset1

just thought id let you guys know that there were some retention kits for sale for 10.00 on the asetek ebay website last time i looked. im not sure if they will replace them for you but its nice to know there is a source for any lost or broken parts for future setup changes.


----------



## M3TAl

You could super glue the peg into the backplate. I think someone did something like this around 50 pages back or so.


----------



## InsideJob

Hey fellow Kuhler users! Just popping in to say my rig is in MOTM and polls just opened. Should come check it out, maybe toss me a vote








Thanks all!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1314127/october-2012-mod-of-the-month-noms-closed-poll-up-come-vote/0_50


----------



## stickg1

I just lapped my 620. The temps are about the same but I believe I need to let the paste cure some. Also I think I might get some of those nylon washers to put more tension on it. I sanded about 20 times in either direction and the scuff marks were still right in the center of the coldplate so it was such a huge concave that I had to do it another 20 times and then run it on 1200 grit to polish it. 1200 grit was the highest grit I could find without ordering online.

What's another way I can add more tension?

edit...DERP: I didn't realize its about 5 degrees hotter in my house than it was when I recorded the previous temps. So right now CPU temp is the same as it was before with 5 degrees hotter ambient, I'll chalk that up as a win. Paste still needs to cure.


----------



## dizzyraider

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Actually I got a question, regarding that backplate.
> Those metal-esk screws that go into that backplate, they don't stay securely in do they?
> As mine go in fine, and bite to the screws, but when I tighten the screws even more, the metal bit starts to turn within the plastic backplate.
> Almost like it was never supposed to be tightened and put on there.
> My 920 is rock hard on my CPU, but just thought to mention it.


I think the new mounting mechanism is likely best to be tightened by hand. It doesn't take too much force to tighten it all the way with the thumb screw, and with the way it's designed it is impossible to over tighten and assert extra clamping force that is preset by Asetek.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakarof*
> 
> Ok I see it now, thanks. I wonder which option is better; grinding down those plastic pegs or adding four nylon washers to the backplate. Both perhaps? I definitely did get the feeling both times I attached the block that the resistance, upon tightening the screws, was coming from somewhere other than the copper plate against the heat spreader. I remember being disappointed at Antec's plastic bracket when I first opened the packaging for the 920. and especially when I put the included bits together. It definitely could have been designed better. The fact that it has to warp a bit in order to fit into the four holes in the motherboard certainly says something as well. I'm starting to wonder if I wouldn't have been better off sticking to air cooling lol.


I suggested nylon washers because if you go with the sanding route, you have to make sure all four pegs are sanded evenly and at the right amount. I didn't immediately notice that my cooler needed additional mounting pressure after lapping until I started checking the temp. I saw that my temp didn't exactly drop although it didn't get worse either, that really made no sense to me since I knew my cold plate was not flat. After reseating it two more times I realized that the pegs and the mounting screws has a set amount of distance that was only optimal for the thickness before lapping, and extra pressure was necessary to make a good contact. The results with the added pressure finally gave me the the 4 degree difference that I was expecting. With the way the mounting system is designed, depending on how much copper was taken off during the lapping process, you really do need to either grind down the mounting pegs or add nylon washers to make up for the loss in thickness of the cold plate.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Hey y'all I have a question reguarding switching motherboards. I haven't swapped mobo's since buying my Antec kuhler 920 and am unsure if it'll work okay during the clean windows 7 installation and all without having the antec software installed? It might sound dumb, but I just didn't want to get the asus together and push power and have the cpu on w/o the cooler. I thought it might just run 100% until the control software get's installed but not sure. Thanks


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oldcompgeek*
> 
> I thought it might just run 100% until the control software get's installed but not sure. Thanks


What do you mean by that exactly?

Why wouldn't it work? You don't need any software to run a 920 or 620. Just make sure the pump isn't being undervolted.


----------



## bmgjet

Will work fine, Just make sure to turn off any bios fan controls for the fan headder you are powering the pump off.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Will work fine, Just make sure to turn off any bios fan controls for the fan headder you are powering the pump off.


You mean to just have it running at 100% correct? The cpu fan header I mean.


----------



## bmgjet

Yes, Or use a molex adapter.
You want the pump getting full 12V all the time other wise you end up getting a ticking pump. Or even the pump stalling if your PC is running cool enough to drop the voltage right down.

All the software does is let you change the settings inside the 920.
LED colour is stored with in it but fan profiles seem to only work when the software is loaded in windows.


----------



## oldcompgeek

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Yes, Or use a molex adapter.
> You want the pump getting full 12V all the time other wise you end up getting a ticking pump. Or even the pump stalling if your PC is running cool enough to drop the voltage right down.
> All the software does is let you change the settings inside the 920.
> LED colour is stored with in it but fan profiles seem to only work when the software is loaded in windows.


Okay, thanks a bunch. I hve a motherboard that I've been running for about t days with a burnt outcpu fan header and #1 memory slot. It's time to get my 50 buck Asus M487TD-EVO out and try her out. It'll be y first time running w/o a mobo w/990f chipset..lol. Got it for 50 refurb fromgeeks and the only flaw I can find is no vrm heatsink butat least it has 8+2 power phases so I can o/c it fine. Proly will buy some copper vrm sinks from the egg to throw on it and if she kiks butt, then ho cool itall. Thanks again



Anyone out there used this mobo before?


----------



## s1xty7

I reseated my 920 after putting in some nylon spacers and I think the results are pretty good. For testing I was running Intel Burn Test at maximum and Furmark at 1080P with 8xMSAA at the same time with the Extreme fan profile.







I still need to remount my 620 on my 7970 as soon as I get my Dwoods brackets. Here are the results so far and I think I'll push the GPU and CPU a little harder. I don't want to change any voltages or disable features so it will be the highest OC I can get leaving all other settings stock. Regardless, here are the current results.

i7-3770K @ 4.3GHz w/ Antec 920 in exhaust push/pull with spacer after 15 minutes of Intel Burn Test - 66C/74C/73C/66C (from RealTemp)
PowerColor 7970 @ 1200MHz core/1700MHz memory w/ Antec 620 in intake push after 10 minutes of Furmark - 50C core and 45C VRM (from GPU-Z)

Again, IBT and Furmark run concurrently. I've certainly seen better scores but given the overclocks and the heat soaking of the system while maintaining these temps, I'd say I'm pretty happy. Going for 4.5GHz stable CPU and 1300MHz core/1800MHz memory on the GPU. Might wait until I get my Dwoods bracket to try that one though. All without changing voltage!



I know, I'm a nerd.


----------



## FifthRocketeer

Bought myself the 920 a while ago. And I am seriously impressed. I am running it on a i5 2500k in a corsair 600t I haven't seen a temp over 41c. Now I am not overclocking, but I made the noob ish mistake of buying a MB that does not allow OCing. But in my defence it is the first time I have ever build a pc (or owned one for that matter), always had Mac. And still do, but I wanted to give it a to, and I wanted something to game on.


----------



## stickg1

I put in the nylon washers yesterday. That definitely helped after lapping. I got a about a 4 degree celsius improvement.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FifthRocketeer*
> 
> Bought myself the 920 a while ago. And I am seriously impressed. I am running it on a i5 2500k in a corsair 600t I haven't seen a temp over 41c. Now I am not overclocking, but I made the noob ish mistake of buying a MB that does not allow OCing. But in my defence it is the first time I have ever build a pc (or owned one for that matter), *always had Mac*. And still do, but I wanted to give it a to, and I wanted something to game on.


Might want to keep that one to yourself around here







. You might get burned at the stake


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I put in the nylon washers yesterday. That definitely helped after lapping. I got a about a 4 degree celsius improvement.


I've been looking for some nylon washers around town but nobody seems to sell them. So either I'll have to find a source online or create my own using a drill and whatever non-conductive scrap I can muster up (some wood perhaps).

I'm wondering if I should even be worrying though. I've upped my 3770K to 4.5 GHz with 1.20 volts today and with an ambient temperature hovering between 16C and 17C, I'm seeing upwards of 74C while running Prime95. It will run for about four hours before encountering an error, always on the hottest core (number 2). I'll probably have to up the volts a bit, which means more heat.

I just keep seeing others having better cooling success, usually about 5C to 10C cooler than me at similar settings and this is what has me believing I should be doing better. So is this the best I can expect or should I continue mucking about with reseating, maybe even go so far as to buy some new fans with better static pressure (Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM's or Corsair SP120's perhaps)? I feel like I could have done just as well with a good air cooler, which I at least wouldn't have to worry about leaking. I use my PC for everything; gaming, rendering, multimedia playback, etc. It's on 24/7 and that has me concerned whether or not I made the right choice in coolers reliability-wise.

I'm also currently looking at changing the 140mm blow hole fan from my Corsair AF140 Silent to something with a bit more airflow while changing it's grill to something less restrictive just to make sure enough air is moving through the case. Besides the 920's filtered radiator bringing somewhat cool air into the case via the rear, there are also two filtered Lian Li 120mm blue LED fans bringing air in through the front, about 1200 RPM each. I could replace them all and add a fan controller I suppose. Hate all the extra wiring though lol.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakarof*
> 
> I've been looking for some nylon washers around town but nobody seems to sell them. So either I'll have to find a source online or create my own using a drill and whatever non-conductive scrap I can muster up (some wood perhaps).
> I'm wondering if I should even be worrying though. I've upped my 3770K to 4.5 GHz with 1.20 volts today and with an ambient temperature hovering between 16C and 17C, I'm seeing upwards of 74C while running Prime95. It will run for about four hours before encountering an error, always on the hottest core (number 2). I'll probably have to up the volts a bit, which means more heat.
> I just keep seeing others having better cooling success, usually about 5C to 10C cooler than me at similar settings and this is what has me believing I should be doing better. So is this the best I can expect or should I continue mucking about with reseating, maybe even go so far as to buy some new fans with better static pressure (Gentle Typhoon 1850 RPM's or Corsair SP120's perhaps)? I feel like I could have done just as well with a good air cooler, which I at least wouldn't have to worry about leaking. I use my PC for everything; gaming, rendering, multimedia playback, etc. It's on 24/7 and that has me concerned whether or not I made the right choice in coolers reliability-wise.
> I'm also currently looking at changing the 140mm blow hole fan from my Corsair AF140 Silent to something with a bit more airflow while changing it's grill to something less restrictive just to make sure enough air is moving through the case. Besides the 920's filtered radiator bringing somewhat cool air into the case via the rear, there are also two filtered Lian Li 120mm blue LED fans bringing air in through the front, about 1200 RPM each. I could replace them all and add a fan controller I suppose. Hate all the extra wiring though lol.


Thats too hot. You lapped your coldplate right? I don't think theres enough pressure on it. They sell nylon washers at Lowes and Home Depot. They were all out of #8 so I just used some #10 and they worked fine.


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Thats too hot. You lapped your coldplate right? I don't think theres enough pressure on it. They sell nylon washers at Lowes and Home Depot. They were all out of #8 so I just used some #10 and they worked fine.


Yes, I lapped the cold plate to a mirror finish and used Innovation Cooling IC24 on it.

As I alluded to before, the ambient temperature range fluctuates from 14.8 C to 17.9 because the furnace is set to keep the house at 15 C. However the temperature probe I placed at the front intake is actually reading 19.9 C right now and climbing, which I've never seen before, but I think it's because the radiator fans are pumping so much warmed up air into the case (they're running nearly full speed now), that it's creating so much positive pressure it's coming out the front despite the two intake fans situated there. Core temps are now hitting 75 C and fan ramp is set to 20/33. What is yours set at?

After I made my last post, I turned the voltage up to 1.22 volts and that seemed to have stabilized things in Prime95 for the moment (still at 4.5 GHz). I'm thinking I managed to get a pretty decent 3770K looking at others experiences. Too bad the cooler is letting me down... for the moment anyways. Unfortunately there is still summer to consider if I truly wish to run this system 24/7.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakarof*
> 
> Yes, I lapped the cold plate to a mirror finish and used Innovation Cooling IC24 on it.
> As I'm alluded to before, the ambient temperature range fluctuates from 14.8 C to 17.9 because the furnace is set to keep the house at 15 C. However the temperature probe I placed at the front intake is actually reading 19.9 C right now and climbing, which I've never seen before, but I think it's because the radiator fans are pumping so much warmed up air into the case (they're running nearly full speed now), that it's creating so much positive pressure it's coming out the front despite the two intake fans situated there. Core temps are now hitting 75 C and fan ramp is set to 20/33. What is yours set at?
> After I made my last post, I turned the voltage up to 1.22 volts and that seemed to have stabilized things in Prime95 for the moment (still at 4.5 GHz). I'm thinking I managed to get a pretty decent 3770K looking at others experiences. Too bad the cooler is letting me down... for the moment anyways. Unfortunately there is still summer to consider if I truly wish to run this system 24/7.


I don't have an Intel anymore. But a few weeks ago I had an i5-2500k @ 4.6GHz 1.33v and max temp in Prime95 blend was 60c in a 22c room. This was on an unlapped 620.

Right now I run an 8320 @ 4.5GHz 1.45v and max out around 60c in a 21c room with a lapped 620. I know Ivy's run a little hotter but I think there isn't enough tension on your coldplate.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I've got a i7 3770K, and my idle temps are at around 30c, with max temps at 92c (100% load with p95) - this is with the 920 on it.
So 75c is not hot - don't worry.


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Yes, Or use a molex adapter.
> You want the pump getting full 12V all the time other wise you end up getting a ticking pump. Or even the pump stalling if your PC is running cool enough to drop the voltage right down.
> All the software does is let you change the settings inside the 920.
> LED colour is stored with in it but *fan profiles seem to only work when the software is loaded in windows*.


Not sure about this. I can uninstall the antec software and drivers, and my custom fan profile still works. Matter of fact I only run the software when I'm benching and want to turn it up to extreme mode.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Not sure about this. I can uninstall the antec software and drivers, and my custom fan profile still works. Matter of fact I only run the software when I'm benching and want to turn it up to extreme mode.


surely that would then be your motherboard taking over, and controlling the speeds?


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> surely that would then be your motherboard taking over, and controlling the speeds?


Nopers. I have it shut off in the motherboard. Honestly I think the settings are stored in the pump


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Nopers. I have it shut off in the motherboard. Honestly I think the settings are stored in the pump


I know that when updating the FW the fan went into extreme mode, and stayed there for a while lol.
So you could be right - but no idea.


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Nopers. I have it shut off in the motherboard. Honestly I think the settings are stored in the pump


I am using version 1.2 of the Antec Chill Control software and I'm pretty sure my 920 isn't remembering custom fan settings at all. When I reboot to go into the motherboards settings, the fans always run at their slowest speed which is somewhere around 850 RPM. Seems odd though that it would be designed to remember something trivial like LED color, yet not remember what the user set their ramp at. I suppose the best test given these circumstances would be to set it to extreme, then reboot into anything that isn't Windows. As for the pump, it seems to run at 3000 RPM all the time, regardless of fluid temperature.

What would be really cool IMHO is to improve on something like the H100 and make available an (optional?) 5.25" LCD touch screen that works with all these Kuhlers (plug the pumps USB into it, and it into the motherboard USB header). Adds some bling for those that want it and allows people to see/control their temps no matter what OS they're using. Could even add a few extra fan headers for case fan control, make it's color change to match the pumps LED, and even create software that allows people to customize the look and feel of the LCD's interface as well as add/change sounds (all open source maybe?). I'd definitely buy something like that simply because it would be nice to see what's going on while gaming, plus it would be more trustworthy than a Windows app, not to mention greatly self sustaining thanks to a community of enthusiastic modders.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've got a i7 3770K, and my idle temps are at around 30c, with max temps at 92c (100% load with p95) - this is with the 920 on it.
> So 75c is not hot - don't worry.


Oh I'm not worried too much. Mostly I just want to get the most bang for my buck, just like everyone else here I'm sure. Now if my processor was hitting 92 C, well then I'd definitely be worried.








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I don't have an Intel anymore. But a few weeks ago I had an i5-2500k @ 4.6GHz 1.33v and max temp in Prime95 blend was 60c in a 22c room. This was on an unlapped 620.
> Right now I run an 8320 @ 4.5GHz 1.45v and max out around 60c in a 21c room with a lapped 620. I know Ivy's run a little hotter but I think there isn't enough tension on your coldplate.


That seems to be about right based on all the posts I've read here and around the net. Shortly after my last post, about three hours into my current Prime 95 run (which just hit the 13.6 hour mark) temperatures dropped by about 10 C and have stayed that way ever since (58 C on the coolest core, 67 C on the warmest one, ambient is 17.8 C, fans steady at 1800 RPM, liquid temp constant at 28.8 C). This is very strange, to change so drastically and sudden. Is it possible there was a clog somewhere inside the loop that simply cleared itself? I'm positive you're still correct about poor contact due to lapping as I did take a lot of copper off. I'm also positive traditional means of applying thermal compounds don't work for IC24, even with it heated before application. Based on it's consistency, I would imagine it ended up being rather like having the eraser nub on a pencil wedged between the cold plate and CPU lol. I suppose it might have spread out a little bit once it finally got hot enough, and for long enough though. Certainly the most perplexing build I've ever dealt with... but worth it for the nerdy fun I'm having hehe.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakarof*
> 
> I am using version 1.2 of the Antec I'd definitely buy something like that simply because it would be nice to see what's going on while gaming, plus it would be more trustworthy than a Windows app, not to mention greatly self sustaining thanks to a community of enthusiastic modders.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I'm not worried too much. Mostly I just want to get the most bang for my buck, just like everyone else here I'm sure. Now if my processor was hitting 92 C, well then I'd definitely be worried.


I'm not worried at all - especially seeing as p95 is loading it more than it will ever get to.
My normal temps sit around 60c, after playing a lot of games, all day, and the pc being on - again, all day.

92c is what p95 does to my pc - the max it will ever go to - with 100% CPU and 90% ram usage.
All I know/care about, is that my PC can cool that, and my pc can cope with that.

So no, I'm not worried, just glad my pc is doing its job


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm not worried at all - especially seeing as p95 is loading it more than it will ever get to.
> My normal temps sit around 60c, after playing a lot of games, all day, and the pc being on - again, all day.
> 92c is what p95 does to my pc - the max it will ever go to - with 100% CPU and 90% ram usage.
> All I know/care about, is that my PC can cool that, and my pc can cope with that.
> So no, I'm not worried, just glad my pc is doing its job


Yup, that pretty much sums it up for me as well. The only time I'm likely to see sustained high temperatures like that outside of testing is when rendering something. Sometimes it only takes a few minutes, other times days. So long as the water doesn't turn into steam, rupture at a weak point, and fry the entire system, I'm happy too. After all it's not like I live at the very top of the tallest building in the world, where water boils at 85 C, right?


----------



## plywood99

I'm 100% positive my fan profile is stored in the pump.
Example 1:
I'm using a biostar TA990FXE motherboard. This board for some reason places a high load on the cpu when in the bios.
When first starting the computer and going into the bios the fans are spinning slow since the water is still cool.
As the cpu heats up the water the fans start spinning faster, just as the profile I have set.
Example 2:
I did just as you said and set the profile to extreme. Shut down my system. Started it and went into bios and the fans are screaming full tilt.
I did the same with the quiet setting and it too was active in the bios.

Actually it's the main reason I kept my Antec 920.
My loop is all custom, Koolance full cover 7970 gpu block, XSPC 240 rad, Swiftech 120 QP rad, XSPC single bay res and of course my trusty 920 cpu block/pump.
I ditched the 120 rad the 920 came with.

Setup runs like a dream and I have fully programmable fan settings stored in the pump, so no need to run Chill Control.
I only run Chill Control when benching.


----------



## FifthRocketeer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FifthRocketeer*
> 
> Bought myself the 920 a while ago. And I am seriously impressed. I am running it on a i5 2500k in a corsair 600t I haven't seen a temp over 41c. Now I am not overclocking, but I made the noob ish mistake of buying a MB that does not allow OCing. But in my defence it is the first time I have ever build a pc (or owned one for that matter), always had Mac. And still do, but I wanted to give it a to, and I wanted something to game on.


I am almost tempted to take this statement back. H2o 920 leaked on me over the weekend. And it has damaged my motherboard as well I think. Just have to see what customer support say.









Just spoke to the people at pixmania, and they will take the cooler back and have a look at it, probably replace it, and they are also going to replace the motherboard it damaged. Very nice of them.

Fingers crossed I just got very unlucky with a defective 920.


----------



## geronimo78

Hi,

I'm posting this because I had been having similar issues with my pump. After many days of trying everything to make the rattling disappear, I tried the magnet trick which finally worked.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tcgVzf2tsjI

However, I wasn't happy with having a magnet stuck on the front of my cooler. Eventually I unmounted the unit, and spent a good 20 minutes shaking the unit (both pump and rad) to release the air trapped inside the pump unit. When doing this, it's important to ensure the radiator is well above the pump unit, the radiator pipes are exiting the rad from the underside, and to turn the pump while shaking to allow the air to escape (the trapped air rises up through the pipes and rad).

It's now thankfully running silent. I hope this saves someone the hassle I've been through trying to resolve this.

Cheers.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FifthRocketeer*
> 
> I am almost tempted to take this statement back. H2o 920 leaked on me over the weekend. And it has damaged my motherboard as well I think. Just have to see what customer support say.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just spoke to the people at pixmania, and they will take the cooler back and have a look at it, probably replace it, and they are also going to replace the motherboard it damaged. Very nice of them.
> Fingers crossed I just got very unlucky with a defective 920.


Wow, you're the second person ever to have a leak! Good luck.

If you want to save your hardware then disassemble it all. Take everything that got wet and put it in bags of uncooked rice for at least 24 hours.


----------



## FifthRocketeer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wow, you're the second person ever to have a leak! Good luck.
> If you want to save your hardware then disassemble it all. Take everything that got wet and put it in bags of uncooked rice for at least 24 hours.


Hmmm, not sure if that is sarcasm or serious lol

Nah I spoke to the store where I bought it and they said they would have a look at it and replace it, and anything it damaged. So happy days really.


----------



## M3TAl

100% serious. People have leaks all the time on custom water and corsair units. 90% time they get everything working again no damages with rice.


----------



## plywood99

He wasn't being sarcastic. Leaks with these units have been extremely rare.
As for wet hardware, I've totally hosed whole systems before when an errant tube would pop off a barb or some such.
Thankfully never lost a single piece of hardware.








But I prefer to run my hosed hardware under water to wash off all the old fluids and then set them out in the sun for a few hours or put them over a heater vent for a while.
One time I even dumped a large glass of iced tea right over the fan opening of my Antec 900 case. Thought for sure I had killed at least a couple components, but a couple days of drying them out and all was well.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FifthRocketeer*
> 
> Hmmm, not sure if that is sarcasm or serious lol
> Nah I spoke to the store where I bought it and they said they would have a look at it and replace it, and anything it damaged. So happy days really.


He's serious. It's an old trick. Just a matter of completely drying before reusing, assuming it hasn't fried anything already. Some Extreme Overclockers have even washed their mobos in the sink to get vaseline and stuff off, and as long as they are thoroughly dried before use, they are still OK. Seriously.

But if it cooked a component before you noticed....too late.


----------



## par

Hi guys,

someone replaced the backplate on socket 1155?

the circular backplate in bundle hits some component on the mobo's pcb.. I think need a backplate with 'X' form..

(antec 920 , on asus p8z77-i deluxe)

thnxx


----------



## Zakarof

Good stuff to know. Using rice never would have occurred to me. That could be potentially useful for other things too.

I'm thinking about buying an air cooler and give that a try. I have to take the cold plate off my 3770K to reseat it again and add some nylon washers anyways, so I figure I might as well satiate my curiosity at the same time. Which one would you guys recommend? The coolers from Noctua seem to be the ones to beat. Just not 100% sure which to pick for this little test.

I'll probably put it on an i7 875K when I'm done and sell it's Corsair A70 (a good cooler IMHO) if there is a noticeable difference. I've been wanting to push that one a little further for a while now and had already planned on replacing it's TIM anyways. Now that I've built a new machine, I don't have to be as conservative with voltages anymore (though the wife does still expect to get it in one piece when I'm done lol).


----------



## M3TAl

It's useful for phones dropped in toilets too!







Sarcastic, but true.


----------



## alakdan

Include me...








Bought from BestBuy, Open Item @ $34.99


----------



## FifthRocketeer

I had heard of the rice trick. I wasn't sure if you we're serious about the 2nd ever leak









I did not bother trying the rice, as there was an audible pop from the motherboard.

I will post a pic once I get it all set up again. It was a neat little rig.


----------



## Phoenixlight

Has anyone had good results overclocking an FX-8320/8350 with the H20 620?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soarwitheagles*
> 
> Yes, that is an H70 Corsair that caused me sooooooooo much heart ache. Now I am trying the Antec 620 and to be honest with you, I do feel a little apprehensive. Has anyone here had trouble with the Antec 620 leaking?
> Please let me know.
> Thank you,
> Soar


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I personally only know of one instance of an antec leaking on this forum. It was a 920 I believe. Pretty sure the user was Nocturin. Let me find the post.
> Edit: Here's the log of his rma experience etc. http://www.overclock.net/t/1269059/khuler-chronicles-antec-920-leak-update-13-8-29-12


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> He was our first customer who had problems with leaking actually on the unit


That's straight from an Antec rep so I guess your #2 unfortunately. Considering how long these have been out there and how many people have them.... 2 leaks isn't very many at all.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoenixlight*
> 
> Has anyone had good results overclocking an FX-8320/8350 with the H20 620?


I can tell you a 620 won't handle the heat at 5ghz unless you have a crazy low ambient temp or golden chip that takes really low voltage. Most people with 620's are around 4.5-4.8ghz tops with msot around 4.6ghz.


----------



## bmgjet

Hard to say what it will clock to but I can say it will be one less voltage step then you can take with a 920 or h100.


----------



## par

I need a intel backplate replacement for my antec 920..

there is a chance to let me send for free from antec?

(I bought kuhler about 10 days ago)


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> I need a intel backplate replacement for my antec 920..
> there is a chance to let me send for free from antec?
> (I bought kuhler about 10 days ago)


Ask the folks at Antec. I'm sure they will, especially for such a small but very necessary part. When I mentioned I had received a warped panel on an early P180, they sent me a new one right away at no charge. Hard to find better customer service than that (OCZ is really good too IMHO).


----------



## par

Quote:


> Hard to find better customer service than that


I hope it's the same for Europe..

I let you know


----------



## Phoenixlight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I can tell you a 620 won't handle the heat at 5ghz unless you have a crazy low ambient temp or golden chip that takes really low voltage. Most people with 620's are around 4.5-4.8ghz tops with msot around 4.6ghz.


I was hoping for 4.4 - 4.6Ghz, thanks!


----------



## stickg1

I have 4.5ghz on my 8320 max temp 55c. The 8350 might get higher clocks at the same temp because more often than not they can achieve similar clocks at lower voltages.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I have 4.5ghz on my 8320 max temp 55c. The 8350 might get higher clocks at the same temp because more often than not they can achieve similar clocks at lower voltages.


These max temps....just like a person was saying on amazon in reply to my ivy bridge i7 review.
Those aren't your max temps - those are what your temps get to when you stress it using the most intensive game you got.

MAX TEMPS to me is P95 running for 3hrs straight, then getting those max temps.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> These max temps....just like a person was saying on amazon in reply to my ivy bridge i7 review.
> Those aren't your max temps - those are what your temps get to when you stress it using the most intensive game you got.
> *MAX TEMPS to me is P95 running for 3hrs straight, then getting those max temps.*


Ummm this is OCN, not Amazon. Max Temps ARE your max stressed temp, ie Prime95 for hours or Intel Burn Test for hours. That is what I am talking about, 100% load on CPU and Memory for hours. That is what for the most part anyone on this Forum would consider a max temp.

The temperatures I experience while gaming are in the low 40s...

C'mon man...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Ummm this is OCN, not Amazon. Max Temps ARE your max stressed temp, ie Prime95 for hours or Intel Burn Test for hours. That is what I am talking about, 100% load on CPU and Memory for hours. That is what for the most part anyone on this Forum would consider a max temp.
> The temperatures I experience while gaming are in the low 40s...
> C'mon man...


55c is your max temp?
Hard to believe i must say - considering most hit over 75 - I hit around 92-85c max temp lol.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 55c is your max temp?
> Hard to believe i must say - considering most hit over 75 - I hit around 92-85c max temp lol.


I have an AMD FX chip though. It's like comparing apples to oranges. If my chip gets over 70c my PC will shut off to protect it. AMD recommends staying under 61c to ensure longevity of your chip. It's very different from an Intel Ivy Bridge.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I have an AMD FX chip though. It's like comparing apples to oranges. If my chip gets over 70c my PC will shut off to protect it. AMD recommends staying under 61c to ensure longevity of your chip. It's very different from an Intel Ivy Bridge.


ah didn't know u were on AMD lol


----------



## Phoenixlight

Yeah AMD chips generally run cooler than Intel ones.


----------



## M3TAl

I don't think they actually run cooler... I wish I had a link to the datasheet. Mezmenir explained it once.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> 62C refers to CPU package temp, aka TCase (TMPIN#). Not core. Visit AMD datasheets references.
> No, TMPIN# isn't actually a sensor on the board, it's another estimated temperature based on your junction. Core tempertaure calculation is a little bit different, but in reality, your cores are always 8-20C *higher* than your TCase. Hence throttling kicks in sometimes at 77-80C TCase.
> No, running over a value of 62C Tcase won't hurt the CPU dramatically, YMMV of course, this is probably chip specific. I've let mine get up to 70ish. At which point the cores are roughly 85.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> I wasn't comparing "per-processor", more like- talking about how running outside the blanket of it's rated temperature hasn't hurt it. FX can take a lot more heat, yes.
> "CPU Socket" is Tcase (there is *no* socket sensor), and yeah, that's what gets up to 70. When my TCase is 70 (give or take), the cores "display" 55-60, but in reality, they are more like 80+, easy. It is physically impossible to have a core temperature lower than Tcase, and the "core" temperature isn't calibrated for absolute reads, but merely only good for delta. AMD hasn't realeased any information to make it any more useful at all, though newer version of AOD seem to read it differently, YMMV.
> I used to be a strong believer in the 62C core temp thing too- but. Yeah. It's not right, because of physics. The cores are rated to take much, much higher heat than Tcase, but the "CPU package" as a whole, is only rated for X value. (62.5 for example).
> (It was more meant for "TMan", in the post above).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mezmenir*
> 
> 62C refers to CPU package temp, aka TCase (TMPIN#). Not core. Visit AMD datasheets references.
> No, TMPIN# isn't actually a sensor on the board, it's another estimated temperature based on your junction. Core tempertaure calculation is a little bit different, but in reality, your cores are always 8-20C *higher* than your TCase. Hence throttling kicks in sometimes at 77-80C TCase.
> No, running over a value of 62C Tcase won't hurt the CPU dramatically, YMMV of course, this is probably chip specific. I've let mine get up to 70ish. At which point the cores are roughly 85.


Always thought socket temp was actual mobo sensor hmm oh well. So in reality your actual core is around intel temps.


----------



## bmgjet

Socket temp (TEMPIN1)
on my gigabyte board was the same in the software as a probe I had attached to the back of my motherboard for the fan controller.

AMD just says to keep the core temps below 62C.
Iv got up to 63C on some of my chips but they always fail the next pass of prime or IBT once they touch 62 or higher.
Also core temp isnt accurate until you have load on the cpu.

Socket temp on most boards you should keep under 70C or it will throttle the chip or turn it off.
If you dont have a fan on VRM and rear of your motherboard this temp can get out of control and be 15-20C higher then core temp.
Since the antec water units dont provide any cooling for those areas compared to the stock head sink.
With a fan in those two places my socket temp and core temps with in 2-3C of each other. For the first 10mins of pime core temps higher.
Around 15mins they are the same and from there on socket temp takes over.


----------



## Maurauder

Lapped my 920 last night and brought my temps down conciderably. My unit came with a somewhat convex coldplate and I could see it wasn't making very good contact with the edges of the cpu. Also replaced the PK-3 with some Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra. I had to use a LOT of the PK-3 for it to spread evenly. With the Liquid Ultra it was a simple even application with the included brush. After lapping i've seen temps drop in some places as much as ~10c.


----------



## M3TAl

Well unfortunately you can't say the lapping itself contributed to a ~10c drop. You switched from one TIM to another (a very different and high performing TIM at that) and said yourself you applied a large amount of it which in itself can cause bad temps.


----------



## JohnyR

Does the fan necessarily have to be plugged into the pumps header? Could I connect the fan to my fan controller and control it from there? Anyone know the max rpms of the fan on the 620?

Also, would it be find to plug the pump into the cpu-fan header and in the bios have the cpu fan setting set to 100% all the time? That should give it the 12v that it needs right?

Thanks


----------



## M3TAl

You can plug the fan into anything you want. My two cougar fans in p/p are connected to my new fan controller. The pump can also be connected to anything you want but, it needs 12v at all times.

Here is the 620 fan specs:

Bearing Type: Sleeve

Rated Volt: 12.0V

Rated Speed: 2,000rpm +/-10%

Max. Air Flow: 81.32 CFM

Max. Static Air Pressure: 3.394 mm-H2O

Noise Level: 27.36 dBA (Max.)


----------



## bmgjet

Has any one made or come across a mode to make the LED in the 920 pump cycle though the colours automatically?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bmgjet*
> 
> Has any one made or come across a mode to make the LED in the 920 pump cycle though the colours automatically?


Now that would be cool....


----------



## Zakarof

Nobody answered, so I picked up a Noctua NH-D14 to play with since most folks seem pretty impressed by it. Got some interesting results too.

Ambient @ 17.0 C
TIM = Pre-applied Antec
No Lapping
3770K @ Stock
920 @ Silent
P95 @ Large FFT
Load = 70 C

Ambient @ 17.6 C
TIM = IC Diamond 24
No Lapping
3770K @ 4.5 GHz / 1.22v
NH-D14 @ Silent
P95 @ Large FFT
Load = 70 C

I've discovered that though Prime 95 claims large FFT's generate the maximum heat, I've discovered the blend option can actually generates a fair bit more.

Ambient @ 17.4
TIM = IC Diamond 24
920 is Lapped
3770K @ 4.5 GHz / 1.22v
920 @ Custom (20/33)
P95 @ Blend
Load = 76 C

Ambient @ 17.6
TIM = IC Diamond 24
No Lapping
3770K @ 4.5 GHz / 1.22v
NH-D14 @ Silent
P95 @ Blend
Load = 81 C

At first glance the Kuhler 920 is running 4 C cooler than the Noctua. There is one big difference here though. My system was running nearly silent with the air cooler, the quietest I've ever heard a PC run in fact. The Kuhler 920 on the other hand had the fans running from 1680 RPM to 2400 RPM according to HWinfo and the Antec software, which as I'm sure everyone here knows is pretty loud with those two included Corsair fans.

I have the Noctua vertical right now so that it sort of vents out through the 140mm blow hole fan (alignment is off by about 40%), and filtered air is sucked in through the rear of the case via one of those Corsair fans connected to and controlled by the motherboard, same as I was doing with the radiator with both Corsair's attached (there is a picture of the filter in an earlier post). The 120mm fan on the Noctua is pretty much up against my video card with about 65% being covered by it, so I'm not sure airflow is really optimal right now. I might be able to shave a degree or two off if I do some experimenting, starting with moving the video card to the 8x slot.

All in all an impressive air cooler indeed and I look forward to putting on my wifes 875K to see if I can't finally get it to 4.0 GHz. Once I'm done experimenting with the Noctua in my system, I'm going to put the Kuhler 920 back on using nylon washers. When I took it off, it did seem as if it was already making fairly decent contact with the CPU based on the pattern of the thermal compound. The small dot I used spread out to cover 99% of the die and a fair bit of the heat spreader on the right hand side, but not the left side. This is probably because of the slight slant to my copper cold plate (mirror flat, but not parallel) and not tightening the mounting screws evenly.

_Edit: My math above was off. It should have said 5°C difference, not 4°C lol. Anyways I thought I'd also mention that I did try moving the video card from the 16x slot to the 8x slot so that it's not blocking the 120mm fan on the Noctua. The temperature dropped by 3°C as a result (from 81°C to 78°C). Guess I better benchmark the video card in each slot to see if there is a noticeable difference in performance now. I know there was a time when there was none. Have no idea if that's still true today. I also forgot to mention my motherboard and PCH temperatures are 2°C and 4°C lower respectively with the Noctua, while my Gigabyte GTX 670 OC dropped down to 59°C from 65°C when running 3D Mark 11 in a loop for several hours. With some experimentation, I'm sure I can accomplish all of that with the water cooler too. Obviously it's proof my airflow isn't optimal just as I guessed. Perhaps I need an intake fan in my side panel?_


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^very nice!


----------



## Nethermir

hello good folks, i recently got an antec kuhler 620 for my gtx 580, temps are awesome (50~54 during furmark) but my big problem is the pump's very audible clicking sound when the pump is in horizontal (upside down) position. when the pump is in a vertical position, there's no sound.

so far i've tried shaking the pump just in case but i haven't tinkered around much since i am planning to return this unit if the noise persists. are there any other quick solutions for a noisy pump? thanks


----------



## M3TAl

The only other trick I know of is the magnet trick.


----------



## Nethermir

^ woops, i forgot to mention that one. i saw that vid but at the moment i do not have any weak magnets. from the video looks like it is not a permanent fix? like you need to leave the magnet on the pump.


----------



## M3TAl

Ya I think it's just a bandaid fix


----------



## JohnyR

So question, I plugged the bump into the CPU header and hwmonitor is showing 1460rpms. what rpms is it referring to? cant be the fan cause the fan isn't connected to the pump, and it doesn't have a sensor line on it anyways.


----------



## ghostly44

I have the 620 cause I am on a tight budget but my cooler settled down it seem to wear in no problems but I am old and deaf and had a gtx 275 roaring to keep cool through rivatuner. Also wondering if better fans would settle it down like the Artic cooling TC fans they are only $9.00 AUD each here.
Just bought a gigabyte 7870 oc windforce 3 fan setup for $240.00 AUD to the door running a lot cooler like 25 c cooler and directx 11. Everybody in this forum has beautiful computers keep the great work up and all advice is welcome whether I agree with it or not well done everyone.


----------



## ghostly44

Be interesting to up the ante trying more sophisticated liquid cooling options, the ones that I can't afford.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnyR*
> 
> So question, I plugged the bump into the CPU header and hwmonitor is showing 1460rpms. what rpms is it referring to? cant be the fan cause the fan isn't connected to the pump, and it doesn't have a sensor line on it anyways.


That's the rpm of the pump and that's the proper rpm's for the pump.


----------



## soxy

HI, I just bought a 920, turned it on and had a horrible buzzing, sigh, with the pump running around 2200 revs. However read the forum and turned off all the fan stuff in bios and woot, silence! But now the pump runs at 3050 maxing at 3250. The pump monitoring software only goes to 3000 which makes me think it should be running under that, should it? I emailed antec australia and thier reply was rma it... The thing is working fine, is it running way to fast, should I rma it, or will it happily pump for years at over 3k? By keeping it am I risking a leak?

Thanks

Soxy


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soxy*
> 
> HI, I just bought a 920, turned it on and had a horrible buzzing, sigh, with the pump running around 2200 revs. However read the forum and turned off all the fan stuff in bios and woot, silence! But now the pump runs at 3050 maxing at 3250. The pump monitoring software only goes to 3000 which makes me think it should be running under that, should it? I emailed antec australia and thier reply was rma it... The thing is working fine, is it running way to fast, should I rma it, or will it happily pump for years at over 3k? By keeping it am I risking a leak?
> Thanks
> Soxy


When you turn it on for the first time. The first 5 to 10 minutes it will be loud, due to the pump starting up, and the bubbles.
After that it should go away.

As for pump speed, mine is always on 3k.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's the rpm of the pump and that's the proper rpm's for the pump.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnyR*
> 
> So question, I plugged the bump into the CPU header and hwmonitor is showing 1460rpms. what rpms is it referring to? cant be the fan cause the fan isn't connected to the pump, and it doesn't have a sensor line on it anyways.


No its not.
That's the fan speed. As hw monitor is reading it off the motherboard.
If you go into the bios you'll see the same speed displayed under cpu fan.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No its not.
> That's the fan speed. As hw monitor is reading it off the motherboard.
> If you go into the bios you'll see the same speed displayed under cpu fan.


Read the guys full post, he doesn't have a fan connected to the pump header. He only has the pump plugged in. It can't be the RPMs of the fan because there is no fan installed!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Read the guys full post, he doesn't have a fan connected to the pump header. He only has the pump plugged in. It can't be the RPMs of the fan because there is no fan installed!


If i'm not mistaken my man - the 920 for example, has the header plugged in, and then 2 separate wires, from the cooler unit, that splits into 2 for the fans.
Long story short: It isn't the pump speed.
Pump speeds are around 3k, with no load or with full load:


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If i'm not mistaken my man - the 920 for example, has the header plugged in, and then 2 separate wires, from the cooler unit, that splits into 2 for the fans.
> Long story short: It isn't the pump speed.
> Pump speeds are around 3k, with no load or with full load:


1st, the guy has a 620. 2nd, he has no fan connected to it. 3rd, the pump is connected to cpu header. 4th, I've had my 620 over a year I know how it works and trust me the 620 pump runs ~1400rpm at 12v. Turn fan controls on in bios and you will see under 1000rpm's and you will hear the pump making noises.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 1st, the guy has a 620. 2nd, he has no fan connected to it. 3rd, the pump is connected to cpu header. 4th, I've had my 620 over a year I know how it works and trust me the 620 pump runs ~1400rpm at 12v. Turn fan controls on in bios and you will see under 1000rpm's and you will hear the pump making noises.


lol ok...i was just pointing out my observations...and doubtfulness...no need to be like that...


----------



## Zakarof

If the 620 pump is connected to the CPU fan header and no fan(s) then HWinfo *might* be reading the pump. With the 920 the setup is to read one of the two included Antec fans and pass that on to the CPU header via another wire. With the 920, pump RPM is read through the USB port by the Antec application, not the fan header on the motherboard. Either the number HWinfo is reading is correct, or it's in error because it's not setup the way it's meant to be used.

PS: JohnyR never said whether he has a 620 or 920.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakarof*
> 
> If the 620 pump is connected to the CPU fan header and no fan(s) then HWinfo *might* be reading the pump. With the 920 the setup is to read one of the two included Antec fans and pass that on to the CPU header via another wire. With the 920, pump RPM is read through the USB port by the Antec application, not the fan header on the motherboard. Either the number HWinfo is reading is correct, or it's in error because it's not setup the way it's meant to be used.
> PS: JohnyR never said whether he has a 620 or 920.


and on top of that - the guy should check his bios.

Cheers for the info.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Zakarof*
> 
> PS: JohnyR never said whether he has a 620 or 920.


His rig details state a 620.


----------



## granno21

Is there a warranty on just the fan and can I RMA just the fan? I have had the cooler for less than a year and the fan as developed an awful rattle. The cooler itself is functioning perfectly.


----------



## M3TAl

Not sure but you can always ask Antec. I mean technically its part of the cooler so it's covered.


----------



## stickg1

And if it's going to cost you to ship it and whatnot, it is just a fan, you can like, buy a better one probably for less than $10.


----------



## stickg1

Has anyone put an aftermarket radiator on their Antec Kuhler? I heard it was possible and was toying with the idea of getting a thicker 120mm rad for my 620...


----------



## Zakarof

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> His rig details state a 620.


I'm fully aware of that, but most folks aren't, or they simply forget to check. I posted with the hope that people would take it easy on them when commenting further.


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *soxy*
> 
> HI, I just bought a 920, turned it on and had a horrible buzzing, sigh, with the pump running around 2200 revs. However read the forum and turned off all the fan stuff in bios and woot, silence! But now the pump runs at 3050 maxing at 3250. The pump monitoring software only goes to 3000 which makes me think it should be running under that, should it? I emailed antec australia and thier reply was rma it... The thing is working fine, is it running way to fast, should I rma it, or will it happily pump for years at over 3k? By keeping it am I risking a leak?
> Thanks
> Soxy


3250RPM is not bad, better to be a little faster then slower. As with fan's, there will be an acceptable tolerance for RPM variation. Most fan manufactures will allow +\- 200RPM variance. Speed could also be affected by the mounting of the unit. The radiator must be mounted with the tubes on the bottom! This is simple hydrodynamics. Air always rises to the highest point in a system and even though these systems should be air free, that is not always the case. If the hoses are pulling from the top of the radiator and there is air in the system, then that air will continually be cycling through the pump and aerating the coolant which in turn lowers its cooling efficiency and slows its flow rate and will cause the pump to run faster. By mounting the radiator with the hoses on the bottom, any air in the system will accumulate in the top reservoir of the radiator and will never be reintroduced into the coolant.


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya I think it's just a bandaid fix


i decided to return it any way and luckily i found an antec 920 that the shop is selling for only $30 due to missing brackets. and it works perfectly









edit: nvm, i found another spare gt ap-14!


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Has anyone put an aftermarket radiator on their Antec Kuhler? I heard it was possible and was toying with the idea of getting a thicker 120mm rad for my 620...


I wouldn't see why not. The hard part is going to be getting all the air out of the system and proper hose fittings. With Microcenter selling the unit for $49.99 now, it's worth a shot.


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nethermir*
> 
> i decided to return it any way and luckily i found an antec 920 that the shop is selling for only $30 due to missing brackets. and it works perfectly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> now here's another issue, i have two fans -- a gt ap-14 and a corsair air series af120 quiet edition fan. which one do i use to push and which one for pull? i thought the gt ap-14 will need to be used as the push fan but i am not entirely sure.


I believe the corsair air series af120 quiet has lower static pressure(.5 H2O) compared to the GT AP-14 (.8-1 H2O). The AP-14 number is very allusive for some reason.. I would go GT AP-14 Push, AF120 pull


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm using the SP120 quiets on my antec.
They cost, together: £17.
Probably cheaper than RMA'ing the antec fans.
It is still worth calling antec for it though.


----------



## granno21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm using the SP120 quiets on my antec.
> They cost, together: £17.
> Probably cheaper than RMA'ing the antec fans.
> It is still worth calling antec for it though.


I was actually looking at picking up the new corsair SP120 High performance, but unfortunately I can't find them in Japan and if I did they would probably cost more than my H20 620 was in the first place


----------



## JohnyR

edit double post sorry


----------



## JohnyR

Herpderp, yeah sorry I forgot to mention I had the 620









Sorry for creating a heated battle <3


----------



## soxy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suburban78*
> 
> The radiator must be mounted with the tubes on the bottom!


Ahh, excellent, I have tubes at the bottom of the radiator and the cpu bit they are to the side so all good. Thanks for the reassurance, pity the guy at antec couldnt do that









Thanks

Soxy


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *granno21*
> 
> I was actually looking at picking up the new corsair SP120 High performance, but unfortunately I can't find them in Japan and if I did they would probably cost more than my H20 620 was in the first place


dam - not even amazon japan?

They are much better than the stock antecs.
They push the same temps, but at only 1500rpm - and are also silent, meaning a win-win


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Has anyone put an aftermarket radiator on their Antec Kuhler? I heard it was possible and was toying with the idea of getting a thicker 120mm rad for my 620...


you could put a different radiator if you want but i don't think that it is worth the trouble. if you are going to mod a closed loop, it is probably better to get a true water cooling system instead. and if you want a thicker rad, just get the kuhler 920. there are a lot of deals online or visit your local stores for refurbs. i got my kuhler 920 for only $30








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suburban78*
> 
> I believe the corsair air series af120 quiet has lower static pressure(.5 H2O) compared to the GT AP-14 (.8-1 H2O). The AP-14 number is very allusive for some reason.. I would go GT AP-14 Push, AF120 pull


thanks, yeah the af120 pushes less air but thankfully i found a spare gt ap-14 so im all set


----------



## InsideJob

My Kuhler 620 is performing much better then usual today... I wonder why!?










Maybe cuz it's only 1°c outside today and my rad is feeding nearly directly from a cracked open window


----------



## bmgjet

6C socket temp lol nice.
Just be careful of condensation. I got a bit of it on my radiator when I did that last winter.
My radiator was mounted out side the case so didnt matter to much if it dripped.


----------



## InsideJob

Ya I closed the window to only be open like an inch and closed the blinds to keep it from getting too cold ^_^


----------



## plywood99

Well I finally finished my Antec 920 mod. I ditched the original 120 rad and went with a Swiftech 120 and a XSPC 240. I also added a Koolance 7970 block and a XSPC single bay res.
Did the PWM mod to a couple of Gentle Typhoon ap30's for the 240, and have a pwm controlled CoolerMaster on the 120.
On Silent setting the GT's spin around 1200 - 1300 and are near silent. All you hear is a slight wind / air sound, no motor noise at all! The difference between the Typhoons and the stock fans is quite dramatic. Stock fans even at low rpm had a very noticeable motor sound.

Modded Typhoons:


I ditched the Antec flimsy backplate and went with stock AMD backplate and wingnuts. Better mount and no motherboard warping.


XSPC res: Thinking of going with a white led to match rest of system. The blue is kinda meh...


Case side off: Good view of the bottom 120 rad.


Case side on: Looks decently clean, not best wire management but not the worst either.










My temperatures are damn amazing! I honestly didn't expect them to be as good as they are. 7970 at 1200 with 1.212 volts stays around 45c while gaming. And my AMD 8350 @ 5ghz is around 50 ish after 45 minutes of GW2. This is with the fans spinning at around 1500 rpm and again the the only sound is just a gentle breeze. I can hear my hardrive over the fans while gaming.

I love the fact that the pump controls fan speed according to water temperature. It produces a much smoother fan profile than having fan speed controlled by CPU temperature.

Comments and ways to improve please let me know.


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *JohnyR*
> 
> So question, I plugged the bump into the CPU header and hwmonitor is showing 1460rpms. what rpms is it referring to? cant be the fan cause the fan isn't connected to the pump, and it doesn't have a sensor line on it anyways.


Regarding reported vs actual pump speed, this is from the Blog on Asetek's site... "Questions of the month-October 2011" which says (emphasis added by me): "... Additionally, you can confirm the pump speed in your BIOS or a fan monitoring system inside Windows. *The pump should display a reported speed of 1400RPM, which is half the actual speed.* ..." .

I seem to remember my old 620 behaving this way and so your reading of 1460 would be normal; (also could have sworn I saw a thread somewhere by asetek_stu that said as much too, by I can't find it right now).


----------



## stickg1

What parts did you need to do this? I want to change the radiator on my 620 and add a block for my NB. I run an 8320 and want temperature improvements. Is the pump on the 620 powerful enough or would I need to have a 920? If so I will probably just go full custom loop.


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> What parts did you need to do this? I want to change the radiator on my 620 and add a block for my NB. I run an 8320 and want temperature improvements. Is the pump on the 620 powerful enough or would I need to have a 920? If so I will probably just go full custom loop.


Just picked up a couple rads, gfx block,a bay res, clamps and some 3/8 tubing.








I cut the hoses coming from the pump leaving about an inch or so to clamp the 3/8 hose onto. Put it together, bleed it and your set man.

Not much to it really.

And yes the 620 pump will be enough.


----------



## M3TAl

Very impressive plywood! I like what I see


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Very impressive plywood! I like what I see


That's what I'm saying! I might have to mess with mine too. I want to get 2 rads on it and possibly throw another cold plate onto either my northbridge or GPU.


----------



## plywood99

Thanks M3tal.









Stickg1 I say go for it bro. It's no more difficult than putting in a custom loop or a water cooling kit.
Bleeding was probably the trickiest part, but wasn't hard to do at all. I put my case on a pillow and tilted this way and that to get the air out.

Was surprised with the hose on the stock unit. It feels really solid and durable, but it cuts like nothing lol. I mean like the hose WANTED to be cut or something







.


----------



## stickg1

So would the Kuhler 620 pump have any trouble keeping up if I just added another 120mm radiator and a 5.25" reservoir? I was just pricing it out on FrozenCPU. I could get some nice tubing and barbs that match my color scheme. I think it would be really cool! If it doesn't work out as well as planned well then I guess I already have a few more parts that I need for a full blown custom loop...


----------



## plywood99

Wont have any problems at all. ^^


----------



## hah4

Hey guys, new to this cooler, loved it, now i hate it.

I went intel this month, and i am trying to get the darn thing off the old motherboard. But i cant seem to get it, i have tried unscrewing the screws. trying to pry off the back plate. I just cant get it.

Any help will be taken.


----------



## suburban78

So the threaded inserts in the back plate are turning while trying to unscrew?


----------



## M3TAl

I could barely get mine off my old mobo too... heated it up with a hair dryer... Still was extremely hard. I think I used a flat head screw driver to help lift it up... Also the sticky glue pads thing stayed on the old mobo lol... Basically the backplate separated from the glue pads.

Edit: O wait, you mean you can't get the block unscrewed? I guess something is stripped. Might need some needle nose pliers to hold the inserts in the backplate down or something.


----------



## suburban78

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> you mean you can't get the block unscrewed? I guess something is stripped. Might need some needle nose pliers to hold the inserts in the backplate down or something.


Exactly what I was thinking.


----------



## hah4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *suburban78*
> 
> So the threaded inserts in the back plate are turning while trying to unscrew?


Correct


----------



## suburban78

Not a good situation. At least they are fairly inexpensive to replace if you must. They are $49.99 at Microcenter now... Try squeezing the back plate around the insert with pliers and unscrewing. I have a feeling that it will destroy the back plate though. Maybe Antech will send you a new back plate.. Good luck


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hah4*
> 
> Hey guys, new to this cooler, loved it, now i hate it.
> I went intel this month, and i am trying to get the darn thing off the old motherboard. But i cant seem to get it, i have tried unscrewing the screws. trying to pry off the back plate. I just cant get it.
> Any help will be taken.


This happens when you over-tighten the thumb screws on initial install. Here is what you will need: #2 phillips head screw driver, a pair of needlenose pliers.

Stick the screw driver into one of the screw heads, turn it a little to make sure your in right, push on the screw driver, the little threaded nut should stick out of the backplate a little now. If it doesn't then push down on the thumb-screw with the screwdriver while also pushing the backplate towards the motherboard and it should stick out plenty for you to latch on with the pliers. Do this to all 4 screws to just get them started and then finish turning them with your thumbs.


----------



## plywood99

That's why I quit using the Antec backplate, it's a serious POS.

Just get some needle nosed pliers and grab onto the little nuts on the backplate, then throw said backplate in the garbage.
Buy some 6/32 1.5 inch screws and and some wingnuts, Run the screws through your stock motherboard backplate and use the wingnuts to tighten down the block. Works great plus it doesn't warp your motherboard.


----------



## alakdan

Update...
Simple Mod.

Reservoir/Barb: Phobya Balancer 250 from FrozenCPU
Tube: from Home Depot
Coolant: Toyota

.


----------



## granno21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alakdan*
> 
> Update...
> Simple Mod.
> 
> Reservoir/Barb: Phobya Balancer 250 from FrozenCPU
> Tube: from Home Depot
> Coolant: Toyota
> .


Any noticeable change in temps from stock to the reservoir?


----------



## alakdan

Intel Stock: 120°F
Antec 620 Stock: 115°F
Antec 620 Modified: 82°F


----------



## alancsalt

Don't know about Toyota coolant, but I tried some green coolant from the local garage and it left a film in my blocks and Tygon tubing, so I had to scrub it all out. Now I just use distilled water and anti-algae.


----------



## alakdan

This is what they say from net...
Toyota Genuine Long Life Coolant:
'Ethylene Glycol based for extra long lasting aluminum protection.
'No silicates.
'Cannot gel.
'No seal abrasion.
'No borates.
'No aluminum corrosion or pitting.
'Formulated with de-ionized water
'Pre-Diluted 50/50
'No additional water needed for reducing concentration.

I'll update, if i got same problem with this coolant...


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alakdan*
> 
> Update...
> Simple Mod.
> 
> Reservoir/Barb: Phobya Balancer 250 from FrozenCPU
> Tube: from Home Depot
> Coolant: Toyota
> .


So just by adding a reservoir and coolant you were able to drop ~20 degrees Celsius? Is this idle temps or load temps and what CPU are you using?


----------



## alancsalt

I'd guess a Vishera 8320?


----------



## stickg1

I think he threw a stock Intel comparison in his 2nd post. I'm just wondering if it's a K series that's overclocked or a locked chip, and whether those are idle or load temps. I wasn't to mod my 620 but just trying to figure out how much performance I can get from it.


----------



## alakdan

Idle temp(~10% Load), I am using i5-3570K
It's getting colder here, could be that's the reason I got that temp reading,
I apologize for confusing anyone, Intel Stock Heatsink and Antec Stock reading last month,
Gonna try to install back the stock with idle and load setup for better comparison when I got time this weekend.

.


----------



## suburban78

I have chosen to use distilled water and Hyper Lube Super Coolant additive in my custom loop with two drops Dead Water. I mixed my coolant 68 onces at a time in a sterilized soda bottle. I use a mixture of 64oz distilled water and 4oz Hyper Lube Super Coolant (contains no ether's that attack plastics or plexi-glass parts) which is a 6% mix that has a wonderful green color and looks killer with UV light. I'm not concerned with color myself so long as I get great cooling and protection!


----------



## M3TAl

I don't know. A stock 620 should be a lot better than 5F than a stock intel cooler.


----------



## InsideJob

Incase anyone wants another one








http://ncix.ca/products/index.php?sku=59537&vpn=KUHLER%20H20620&manufacture=Antec&promoid=1030


----------



## plywood99

Nice price on that 620 O_O


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Created a HUGE installation guide for the 920 - if owners would like to check it out and express their opinions on either my installation or my written skills, that would be greatly appreciated!

http://www.overclock.net/t/1330317/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-a-full-installation-guide


----------



## coolbrezz

here is my build in progress gonna ditch the 620 soon and put a custom loop and finsh wiring an lighting this was just temp to get my machine up.
My fx4100 idles about 27c-30


----------



## WarDad

Odd, I don't see anything about storage temperatures. Sure, it has antifreeze in it, but what are the limits for shipping. Storage?


----------



## Boffinboy

Hi All, i posted this as a separate thread but thought it might be useful to ask in the 'owners club' thread'! I'm doing a clean install on my PC and was planning to use Windows 8.

I have an antec kuhler 920. I was wondering if anyone knows whether chill control software for fan control is working under Windows 8? The only posts i could find after doing a search were with older pre-release Win 8 versions and some said it didn't work, others said it worked fine. I'd rather not loose the fan control options!

Boffinboy


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boffinboy*
> 
> Hi All, i posted this as a separate thread but thought it might be useful to ask in the 'owners club' thread'! I'm doing a clean install on my PC and was planning to use Windows 8.
> I have an antec kuhler 920. I was wondering if anyone knows whether chill control software for fan control is working under Windows 8? The only posts i could find after doing a search were with older pre-release Win 8 versions and some said it didn't work, others said it worked fine. I'd rather not loose the fan control options!
> Boffinboy


Yes it works fine under windows 8^^


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Yes it works fine under windows 8^^


Which driver are you using?
As I'm thinking of upgrading too.


----------



## Nuddi

Add me to the club, although I raped my kuhler this afternoon. I´ll post some pic from before the modding later


----------



## tuan2195

Hi guys, I'm new to this forum (but not so to overclocking)
I've just got a 620 for $41,what do you guys think? Is it good for the price? And how does it compare to hi-end air cooler?
I'm planning to put this on my 3570K and hit 4.5GHz stable. Do you guys think it is possible?
(I'm on Asrock Z77 Extreme4 + G.skill Ripjaws 1600 fyi)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nuddi*
> 
> Add me to the club, although I raped my kuhler this afternoon. I´ll post some pic from before the modding later


very nice mate!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuan2195*
> 
> Hi guys, I'm new to this forum (but not so to overclocking)
> I've just got a 620 for $41,what do you guys think? Is it good for the price? And how does it compare to hi-end air cooler?
> I'm planning to put this on my 3570K and hit 4.5GHz stable. Do you guys think it is possible?
> (I'm on Asrock Z77 Extreme4 + G.skill Ripjaws 1600 fyi)


brilliant price, and yes it will give you good cooling


----------



## pettigrew95

Hey everyone just bought the 620 and mounted it. Sometimes I hear a weird noise coming from the 620 (I think it's the 620 making it) when the CPU starts heating up (playing games usually) anyway see the attached picture and let me know if I mounted the cooling block and radiator fan correctly as I see there is some debate as to which way the radiator should be (tubes facing top and tubes facing bottom). Thanks in advance!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pettigrew95*
> 
> Hey everyone just bought the 620 and mounted it. Sometimes I hear a weird noise coming from the 620 (I think it's the 620 making it) when the CPU starts heating up (playing games usually) anyway see the attached picture and let me know if I mounted the cooling block and radiator fan correctly as I see there is some debate as to which way the radiator should be (tubes facing top and tubes facing bottom). Thanks in advance!


There's nothing wrong I see there. However if you are hearing noises, it could well be bubbles trapped.
Switch around the antec pump to the bottom of the radiator.
Not really a debate, but the pump at the bottom helps it.
In custom watercooling setups it is almost essential to have the pump 'free'.
However for closed units, like the 620, it's not essential.


----------



## pettigrew95

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> There's nothing wrong I see there. However if you are hearing noises, it could well be bubbles trapped.
> Switch around the antec pump to the bottom of the radiator.
> Not really a debate, but the pump at the bottom helps it.
> In custom watercooling setups it is almost essential to have the pump 'free'.
> However for closed units, like the 620, it's not essential.


So you recommend I should flip the radiator so the tubes are at the bottom and that's it? The pump is facing the right way on the CPU itself? Thanks for the reply.


----------



## jerrolds

For the life of me i cannot find the place to plug in the pump (H20 620)



Do i need an adapter? I'm trying to install it on a Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP http://ca.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4192#sp

heres a pic of the motherboard, am i missing something? I dont think it came with an adapter...



Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks


----------



## granno21

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> For the life of me i cannot find the place to plug in the pump (H20 620)
> 
> Do i need an adapter? I'm trying to install it on a Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP http://ca.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4192#sp
> heres a pic of the motherboard, am i missing something? I dont think it came with an adapter...
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks


You plug the fan into the connector on the pump and plug the pump into the CPU Fan Header on the motherboard


----------



## Artikbot

Tomorrow I'll post some photos of what I've done to my Antec 620... I bet no one has ever done it


----------



## tuan2195

Nice to hear. Can't wait to get my hands on this thing.
So how do you think the 620 will compare to top-end air cooler like the Thermalright etc. stuffs?
And also is there any good aftermarket fan that you recommend? I heard the fan of the 620 is pretty slow (I won't mind the noise since it's a HTPC anyway)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pettigrew95*
> 
> So you recommend I should flip the radiator so the tubes are at the bottom and that's it? The pump is facing the right way on the CPU itself? Thanks for the reply.


Indeed mate
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> For the life of me i cannot find the place to plug in the pump (H20 620)
> 
> Do i need an adapter? I'm trying to install it on a Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP http://ca.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4192#sp
> heres a pic of the motherboard, am i missing something? I dont think it came with an adapter...
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks


Look for cpu header on your motherboard


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> For the life of me i cannot find the place to plug in the pump (H20 620)
> 
> Do i need an adapter? I'm trying to install it on a Gigabyte GA-Z77M-D3H-MVP http://ca.gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4192#sp
> heres a pic of the motherboard, am i missing something? I dont think it came with an adapter...
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks


You actually do have the pump plugged in. That other plug is for the radiator fan. You don't have to use that plug. The fan can be plugged into anything (mobo header, direct to psu, fan controller, etc.).


----------



## WarDad

pettigrew95:
Think trapped air bubbles. They can kill your pump. They will float to the top. They can result in gurgling sounds at the tubes. I see two issues easily handled.

1. The pump tubes are on the bottom. Any air in the pump can be trapped there. The arrangement is not the best, but you can make do. With your system off, tilt it around so any trapped can float up out of the pump. It worked for me









2. The best place for trapping air bubbles is in the rad, at the end with no tubes. It should be the highest point of your cooling system. This fixed a gurgling noise when I was just casually stringing up two H20 620 rads for my grapics cards "The MOD" trial runs.

Good Luck


----------



## WarDad

Thermaltake CLW0217 Water 2.0 Extreme/All-In-One Liquid Cooling System
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190

Who actually makes the Antec Kuhlers anyway?
The Thermaltake's control software looks identical to the H20 920 ChillControl.
The pump and mounting plates look identical.
I believe this unit outperforms the 920.
Typical rad (H100) = 27mm thick. This Water2.0 is 50% thicker. 920 is double thick.
H100 & Water2.0 are 240mm (2x 120mm), while the 920 is only 120mm.
SO.. *The Water2.0 is 50% larger than the 920.*
I wonder what the FPI (fins per inch) is for both? I bet they are close.

Core Temp 1.0 RC4 data with full Folding At Home 100% load:

System 1:
i7 2600k, 4 core, 3.4GHz stock. 95 watts stock,
OC to 4.4 GHz, *91 watts estimated*, VID 1.366
*H2O 920: i7 Core Temp ~ 62c*

System 2:
i7 3930k, 6 core, 3.2GHz stock, 130 watts stock,
OC to 4.2 GHz, *156 watts estimated*, VID 1.346
*Water 2.0 Extreme: i7 Core Temp ~ 62c*

*The Water 2.0 Extreme is much quieter than the H20 920.
I would not use anything less for a Sandy Bridge - E.*

BTW: I have the Thermaltake WATER2.0 Pro on order to do "THE MOD" to my new EVGA GTX670.
It looks a lot like the H20 920, with similar RAD size. BUT.. NO USB control, no control software.
I bet the fans are better, and the whole thing will be quieter.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> Who actually makes the Antec Kuhlers anyway?


Asetek makes them. CoolIT makes some of the others also.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> Thermaltake CLW0217 Water 2.0 Extreme/All-In-One Liquid Cooling System
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835106190
> Who actually makes the Antec Kuhlers anyway?
> The Thermaltake's control software looks identical to the H20 920 ChillControl.
> The pump and mounting plates look identical.
> I believe this unit outperforms the 920.
> Typical rad (H100) = 27mm thick. This Water2.0 is 50% thicker. 920 is double thick.
> H100 & Water2.0 are 240mm (2x 120mm), while the 920 is only 120mm.
> SO.. *The Water2.0 is 50% larger than the 920.*
> I wonder what the FPI (fins per inch) is for both? I bet they are close.
> 
> I bet the fans are better, and the whole thing will be quieter.


actually, with a bigger radiator, you'll have a bigger fan, and with a bigger fan, you'll have higher noise levels.
A guess, but an educated guess.


----------



## alancsalt

Higher revs make more noise than diameter I reckon.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Higher revs make more noise than diameter I reckon.


Of course, but you can easily change the fans, like I did.
With a bigger radiator, you need more air being pushed through it. At least I think.


----------



## alakdan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jerrolds*
> 
> 
> Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks


Seems you connected the fan directly to motherboard, Pullout that plug and connect it here:


----------



## Boffinboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Which driver are you using?
> As I'm thinking of upgrading too.


Thanks plywood. TD - I just installed the version off the antec website (think it's 1.2) and it seems to be working OK (haven't checked the ramp is working yet), though I am missing the sound level. Not too bothered by that though.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Artikbot*
> 
> Tomorrow I'll post some photos of what I've done to my Antec 620... I bet no one has ever done it


Waiting


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> actually, with a bigger radiator, you'll have a bigger fan, and with a bigger fan, you'll have higher noise levels.
> A guess, but an educated guess.


Actually they both have 2 120mm fans.
The double thick H20 920 has them in push pull. They are on both sides of the 120mm face.
The Water2.0 Extreme has the 2 fans side by side on the both 120mm faces. It could hold 4 fans.

*All Generalities are false.*
Some coarse guidlines:

1. RPM is an important factor for fan noise, but so is the design and construction.
Rubber shock mounting reduces sympathetic vibrations in the case, rad etc...

2. Air passge restriction increases with higher FPI (Fins Per Inch).
Thicker RADS are likley to be more restictive. They may have other aerodymanic issues due to length.

3. 2 fans in Push-Pull can help with more restrictive air passages.

4. Higher static pressure fans are better for RADS.

5. The "Law of Diminshing Returns" is easily observed here.
The hotter the RAD vs. Air temperature, the easier it is to transfer heat to the cooler air.
Faster air flow stays cooler as it travels thru the RAD, which increases heat ransfer.
A. Increasing the wind can be pointless when the air stays relatively cool.
B. The RADs delta-T (temperature drop) of the tubing walls and fins can be a limiting factor.
C. Fan RPM vs. Static Pressure and air volume is likely to be a diminishing return curve.
D. More wind reduces the air exit temperature but not the intake. So, roughly only half of the RAD benefits.

Thermaltake Water2 2.0 Extreme. Full load on i7 3930k 6 core, ~ 155w, Room Temp 22c
RPM: 1600, Exit Air: 32.5c, Water: 37.5c, Sound: quiet rushing sound
RPM: 2000, Exit Air: 31.1c, Water: 36.7c, Sound: annoying low level rotational


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boffinboy*
> 
> Thanks plywood. TD - I just installed the version off the antec website (think it's 1.2) and it seems to be working OK (haven't checked the ramp is working yet), though I am missing the sound level. Not too bothered by that though.


I decided against win8 lol
But cheers for letting me know!

As for sound levels, that's to do with the fan pins - I don't have sound levels on mine either
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> Actually they both have 2 120mm fans.
> The double thick H20 920 has them in push pull. They are on both sides of the 120mm face.
> The Water2.0 Extreme has the 2 fans side by side on the both 120mm faces. It could hold 4 fans.
> *All Generalities are false.*
> Some coarse guidlines:
> 
> 1. RPM is an important factor for fan noise, but so is the design and construction.
> Rubber shock mounting reduces sympathetic vibrations in the case, rad etc...
> 2. Air passge restriction increases with higher FPI (Fins Per Inch).
> Thicker RADS are likley to be more restictive. They may have other aerodymanic issues due to length.
> 3. 2 fans in Push-Pull can help with more restrictive air passages.
> 4. Higher static pressure fans are better for RADS.
> 5. The "Law of Diminshing Returns" is easily observed here.
> The hotter the RAD vs. Air temperature, the easier it is to transfer heat to the cooler air.
> Faster air flow stays cooler as it travels thru the RAD, which increases heat ransfer.
> A. Increasing the wind can be pointless when the air stays relatively cool.
> B. The RADs delta-T (temperature drop) of the tubing walls and fins can be a limiting factor.
> C. Fan RPM vs. Static Pressure and air volume is likely to be a diminishing return curve.
> Thermaltake Water2 2.0 Extreme. Full load on i7 3930k 6 core, ~ 155w, Room Temp 22c
> RPM: 1600, Exit Air: 32.5c, Water: 37.5c, Sound: quiet rushing sound
> RPM: 2000, Exit Air: 31.1c, Water: 36.7c, Sound: annoying low level rotational


Nice explanation +rep


----------



## DatNetherbane

Sorry about the pic quality - taken with a potato xD This is an antec 620 on my gpu - not a particularly wise choice. The reasons are threefold; A gpu processor is bigger than a cpu processor, no vrm cooling and if the bolts are overtightened the pcb will bend. But otherwise temps are good!


----------



## Krusher33

You can get heatsinks for the VRM's. Might help you get higher OC.


----------



## DatNetherbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Krusher33*
> 
> You can get heatsinks for the VRM's. Might help you get higher OC.


Yeh, I slapped some heatsinks on there when light gaming produced the smell of burning carpet. Its a good cooler but i'm going to replace it for a 580 waterblock. I have no idea whether it will fit or not so i'll have some pretty dense thermal pads on hand.


----------



## WarDad

Dat, check out "THE MOD" thread on this site: official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod

I kept the base plate on my card, as its heat sink benefits many devices. A side panel fan is enough to keep it cool.

I used the tie wrap method, but not as shown. My method is easier.
1. remove the heatsink from the plate.
2. thread the tie wraps up from the bottom of the plate thru the four screw wells..
3. its obvious now... the tie wraps head need to be cut a liitle to make it flush.
4. now thread them thru the 620 mount, with the 620 attached.
5. they can be secured with the heads of 4 more tie wraps.
6. the plate can be screwed to the card.
7. when secured the 620 will rise every so slighly off the plate. the tension holds it firmly on the chip.
NOTE: use only military grade 18LB nylon tie wraps.

These instructions worked for a GTX560ti reference card.
It won't work if the GPU is recessed below the plate.

BTW: I added stick on heat sinks (enzotech) to the plate for 5c reduction. It's not needed, but good air flow is needed.


----------



## sunset1

@wardad good post. And while it will work without the heatsinks.. cravinmind highly suggests them.
Especially if you overclock, ( for long term stability and component protection).
I just ordered a set of those for my 660ti last night. ;>


----------



## InsideJob

Problem solved


----------



## DatNetherbane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> Dat, check out "THE MOD" thread on this site: official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod
> I kept the base plate on my card, as its heat sink benefits many devices. A side panel fan is enough to keep it cool.
> I used the tie wrap method, but not as shown. My method is easier.
> 1. remove the heatsink from the plate.
> 2. thread the tie wraps up from the bottom of the plate thru the four screw wells..
> 3. its obvious now... the tie wraps head need to be cut a liitle to make it flush.
> 4. now thread them thru the 620 mount, with the 620 attached.
> 5. they can be secured with the heads of 4 more tie wraps.
> 6. the plate can be screwed to the card.
> 7. when secured the 620 will rise every so slighly off the plate. the tension holds it firmly on the chip.
> NOTE: use only military grade 18LB nylon tie wraps.
> These instructions worked for a GTX560ti reference card.
> It won't work if the GPU is recessed below the plate.
> BTW: I added stick on heat sinks (enzotech) to the plate for 5c reduction. It's not needed, but good air flow is needed.


Thanks for the advice, I'll look into it. It definitely seems better than slapping vrm heatsinks on it. I might just pack it in and put the waterblock on
For anyone whose considering putting an antec on their gpu and they have a 470/480, your temps won't be as low as you hoped and it still gets mightily hot! Its not bad as a transition from air to a custom loop but a slim 120 rad just isn't enough to cool that series of cards!


----------



## tuan2195

Anyone think I should buy an aftermarket fan with the 620? And if so, are there any type of fan you would reccommend in particular?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuan2195*
> 
> Anyone think I should buy an aftermarket fan with the 620? And if so, are there any type of fan you would reccommend in particular?


The Corsair SP120's


----------



## Airrick10

I just upgraded my rig with a new ASRock Z77 Extreme4 mobo and a i5 3570k. I've been noticing that the rpm on the cpu-1 fan header reads around 1400rpm in the bios. This is where I have the Kuhler 620 power connected to...is this normal as far as rpms? I thought it was supposed to be around 3000rpm.


----------



## M3TAl

That's normal. Some one just posted around 50 posts back the same thing. It reads ~1400rpm but actually runs 2800-3000rpm.


----------



## Wookieelover

I am upgrading my Antec 620 over the next week.
Removing the tubing for clear Durelene with Mayhems Oil Black and a dual bay XSPC resi.
That is just stage 1.
Stage 2 is going to be replacing the stock Rad with a ALPHACOOL NexXxoS UT60 Full Copper 120mm and new Bitfenix fans.

Standard 620 is cooling my overclocked AMD X4 955 BE

pics up as i can


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's normal. Some one just posted around 50 posts back the same thing. It reads ~1400rpm but actually runs 2800-3000rpm.


Kool...Thanks for the confirmation!!!









I guess I was just concerned since the pump barely made any noise. I've been lucky with my unit...it runs quietly.


----------



## tuan2195

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The Corsair SP120's


Is there gonna be a huge difference?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tuan2195*
> 
> Is there gonna be a huge difference?


noise wise -> yes (big difference whilst on load)
temps wise -> none (at least for the sp120 QUIET edition vs stock antecs for my 920) -> performance edition, might see a change in temps


----------



## redlion

I am looking to get the Antec 620 over the Corsair H60 for my Hackintosh rig. I am going to be running the i7 3770k at stock speeds and may OC to 4.0/4.2 if want faster video renders but don't intend to game with it.

How quiet is the Antec 620 during basic tasks such as web browsing or coding? How loud would it get if taxing premiere pro?


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redlion*
> 
> I am looking to get the Antec 620 over the Corsair H60 for my Hackintosh rig. I am going to be running the i7 3770k at stock speeds and may OC to 4.0/4.2 if want faster video renders but don't intend to game with it.
> 
> How quiet is the Antec 620 during basic tasks such as web browsing or coding? How loud would it get if taxing premiere pro?


what are you rendering?

i recently upgraded my 3770 non-k to a 3770k and overclocked to 4.6GHz and when i exported a 12min long H.264 full quality 2pass VBR i saw an improvement by about 5 mins total export time which is a big deal for me when i am trying to get videos up on youtube as fast as possible.

i would suggest at least going for 4.5GHz you will more than likely see a pretty solid improvement in export times depending on what format you are working with. H.264 is still rather cpu intensive. so i benefited a decent amount from overclocking


----------



## redlion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> what are you rendering?
> i recently upgraded my 3770 non-k to a 3770k and overclocked to 4.6GHz and when i exported a 12min long H.264 full quality 2pass VBR i saw an improvement by about 5 mins total export time which is a big deal for me when i am trying to get videos up on youtube as fast as possible.
> i would suggest at least going for 4.5GHz you will more than likely see a pretty solid improvement in export times depending on what format you are working with. H.264 is still rather cpu intensive. so i benefited a decent amount from overclocking


I am rendering AVCHD or DSLR .mov files so would see a benefit from over-clocking which I have never done before. To get the most stable Hackintosh build I am limited to the Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI Motherboard.

I am just compiling my components for purchase this weekend hence asked about the Antec 620 and whether or not it would be a good choice for the 3770k and Bitfenix Prodigy case.


----------



## Conspiracy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redlion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> what are you rendering?
> i recently upgraded my 3770 non-k to a 3770k and overclocked to 4.6GHz and when i exported a 12min long H.264 full quality 2pass VBR i saw an improvement by about 5 mins total export time which is a big deal for me when i am trying to get videos up on youtube as fast as possible.
> i would suggest at least going for 4.5GHz you will more than likely see a pretty solid improvement in export times depending on what format you are working with. H.264 is still rather cpu intensive. so i benefited a decent amount from overclocking
> 
> 
> 
> I am rendering AVCHD or DSLR .mov files so would see a benefit from over-clocking which I have never done before. To get the most stable Hackintosh build I am limited to the Gigabyte Z77N-WIFI Motherboard.
> 
> I am just compiling my components for purchase this weekend hence asked about the Antec 620 and whether or not it would be a good choice for the 3770k and Bitfenix Prodigy case.
Click to expand...

can you be more specific on what cameras you are using? as there are a lot of cameras that work with AVCHD some shoot at bitrates of 9mbps and some way way higher lol. same goes for DSLR cameras. nikon and canon both shoot in .mov but the files are not exactly the same although technically they are, i think canon might have their cameras shoot at a slightly higher bitrate. but overall the video themselves are pretty much identical


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *redlion*
> 
> I am looking to get the Antec 620 over the Corsair H60 for my Hackintosh rig. I am going to be running the i7 3770k at stock speeds and may OC to 4.0/4.2 if want faster video renders but don't intend to game with it.
> How quiet is the Antec 620 during basic tasks such as web browsing or coding? How loud would it get if taxing premiere pro?


with stock fans - not that quiet (speaking from the 920 here) - with the SP120's quiet edition, they are quiet.
As on load, the antecs ramp up to around 2300rpm or so, let alone full load at around 3k rpm


----------



## stickg1

I bought a couple Antec 620's recently and two of them sold in custom PCs I had built to sell. I kept the stock fans and sold them with aftermarket fans. I was strolling through Best Buy and they had the 620 for $40 so I snagged another one for a personal build. I was using 2 Enermax Magma's and performance was great. Just for kicks I put the 2 Antec stock fans on and they performed even better. A bit loud though. If I got the 2 pack of Corsair SP120 (not the quiet ones) would I see a performance increase? What about noise? More or less?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I bought a couple Antec 620's recently and two of them sold in custom PCs I had built to sell. I kept the stock fans and sold them with aftermarket fans. I was strolling through Best Buy and they had the 620 for $40 so I snagged another one for a personal build. I was using 2 Enermax Magma's and performance was great. Just for kicks I put the 2 Antec stock fans on and they performed even better. A bit loud though. If I got the 2 pack of Corsair SP120 (not the quiet ones) would I see a performance increase? What about noise? More or less?


I can't comment on the performance edition, but the quiet edition, performs the same as the stock antecs, but is MUCH quieter.
So my guess on the performance edition is that it is as loud as the antecs but performs BETTER


----------



## stickg1

I ordered a twin pack of the SP120 Performance Editions. It was on sale for $23 and I had a $20 gift card from newegg so I figured what the heck, might as well.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I ordered a twin pack of the SP120 Performance Editions. It was on sale for $23 and I had a $20 gift card from newegg so I figured what the heck, might as well.


that's an amazing price -> jealous


----------



## InsideJob

What'ya guys think of this idea?








http://www.overclock.net/t/1295271/build-log-green-fiend-low-budget/150_50#post_18734892


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Macke93*
> 
> Be Quiet! ShadowWings 120mm 2200RPM with 29.7 dB noise specification or Scythe Glide Stream 120mm 1400rpm or 1600rpm (those are the new fans from Scythe), you can get 2000rpm glide stream but it's a bit noisier
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Scythe Gentle Typhoon 120mm 1850rpm has many users too, it should run at acceptable sound levels and move alot of air


silenX fans are the best imo


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> What'ya guys think of this idea?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1295271/build-log-green-fiend-low-budget/150_50#post_18734892


good but look around for a guide or some advice on it.
Last thing you want is to mess up that card!

Good luck







!


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> silenX fans are the best imo


I've used the silenx 120mm. They move a lot of air but don't push through radiators very well. They are rated with high CFM's but the static pressure isn't anything special. I used two of them in push pull on my 620 for a while because they were so quiet. I've used a couple different sets of fans that perform better though.


----------



## spad007

Last night i removed my Zalman CNPS9900A LED cooler that i have had for a long time
I think 3 cpu upgrades or so. any way it was too tall and getting old and a bit noisy .
during renders and movies . still cooled real good though ..
i installed the Antec 620 no real problems but i can not remove the screws
to re-clock the pump clock wise as i look at it.

I must have tightened three of them too much and spun the Nutserts in the back plate.
Frack me running . i knew i should not do that . the stock steel back plate might work better?

any way the fan is a bit noisy hum about the same as the Zalman fan.
temps are the same but i figure they will drop some as it wears in .
it F racking well better.

gaaaa!


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spad007*
> 
> Last night i removed my Zalman CNPS9900A LED cooler that i have had for a long time
> I think 3 cpu upgrades or so. any way it was too tall and getting old and a bit noisy .
> during renders and movies . still cooled real good though ..
> i installed the Antec 620 no real problems but i can not remove the screws
> to re-clock the pump clock wise as i look at it.


I have to ask, what's going on with that case!? So much open space up in that top area. Never seen anything like it.


----------



## Conspiracy

no clue what is going on with those pictures lol. they all look the same except the first one


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I have to ask, what's going on with that case!? So much open space up in that top area. Never seen anything like it.


"Old School" Full Tower case.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> "Old School" Full Tower case.


I honestly for a second thought it was the same pc case as my old one


----------



## spad007

Very old (older then some on this forum lol)server full tower but not the one with 2 PSU's as some had.
it's the only case i have ever had since it was new.


----------



## spad007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Conspiracy*
> 
> no clue what is going on with those pictures lol. they all look the same except the first one


you can click on then and see more detail


----------



## Wookieelover

modded my Antec 620.
Fitted a Alphacool Nexxos 60mm rad and a XSPC dual bay res.
Have some Noctua thermal paste on atm, have some Liquid Pro ready for in a few days. Gonna give the Noctua paste a few days to cure then swap over.
So far have noticed a BIG difference in temps over the stock 620.


----------



## stickg1

I put two Cosair SP120 performance fans in my 620 and there's about a 8 degree celsius difference (lower) than the two stock Antec fans I was using. They aren't that loud either, rated at 34db I was expected them to be annoying...


----------



## spad007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wookieelover*
> 
> modded my Antec 620.
> Fitted a Alphacool Nexxos 60mm rad and a XSPC dual bay res.
> Have some Noctua thermal paste on atm, have some Liquid Pro ready for in a few days. Gonna give the Noctua paste a few days to cure then swap over.
> So far have noticed a BIG difference in temps over the stock 620.


photographs?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I put two Cosair SP120 performance fans in my 620 and there's about a 8 degree celsius difference (lower) than the two stock Antec fans I was using. They aren't that loud either, rated at 34db I was expected them to be annoying...


sweet - I thought the performance edition would have been quieter, but yet provide better cooling over the stock antecs!
I got the Sp120 quiet edition myself.


----------



## spad007

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDIGD19J3mw&feature=g-crec-u
i recorded a video of the clicking noise the 620 is making still after a week of running off and on.
i plan to make changes to the loop but will not, in till i find out if i need to replace the pump.
any help or thoughts will be appreciated.









a screeny of my temps what ever this is .


----------



## Maximization

Just orderd an Antec Kühler H2O 920 for my rampage iv . Cant wait.


----------



## expresso

Hi - i just got the 920 installed a week ago - i did a RMA with it - i think the liquid temps are too high for my Cpu - and the software dosnt show the sound level in dbs -

and its not letting me shut down windows unless i close the program first then shut down windows - or else it reboots on me -

does anyone else have these problems with there antec 920 cooler ?

i am using a APU A10 with gigabyte FM2 UP4 board - and just idle is around 38C liquid temps - cant seem to find a good program that actually reads the correct temps on this Chip

they all show something different and HWM - shows 84C in the package section - while doing just a little bit of stress - nothing major and no OC settings -

is this normal -

i have a new unit coming in on tuesday but not sure if i want to change out my chip and board for something else - or even intel - - and try the new unit on the new setup -

not a good feeling so far with this cooler - i just want it to work and not give me issues from the cooler and software - etc,


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Hi - i just got the 920 installed a week ago - i did a RMA with it - i think the liquid temps are too high for my Cpu - and the software dosnt show the sound level in dbs -
> and its not letting me shut down windows unless i close the program first then shut down windows - or else it reboots on me -
> does anyone else have these problems with there antec 920 cooler ?
> 
> i am using a APU A10 with gigabyte FM2 UP4 board - and just idle is around 38C liquid temps - cant seem to find a good program that actually reads the correct temps on this Chip
> they all show something different and HWM - shows 84C in the package section - while doing just a little bit of stress - nothing major and no OC settings -
> is this normal -
> i have a new unit coming in on tuesday but not sure if i want to change out my chip and board for something else - or even intel - - and try the new unit on the new setup -
> not a good feeling so far with this cooler - i just want it to work and not give me issues from the cooler and software - etc,


That liquid temp seems way too high.
Do you have the fans running on a custom profile?

Also, I have no problems whatsoever with my cooler, since day1 !


----------



## WarDad

No issues with my 920 - almost, but it's an all or nothing issue.
Orientation of the pump is such that air can get trapped in it.
Just by tilting the case, the air bubbles can rise up into the RAD which is higher.
I moved the motherboard from a conventional case to a Raven2E which is rotated 90 degrees.
I'm just to lazy to pull the pump off, turn it and remount it.

BTW: An old mechanics habit might be of help to you. It keeps mounting from going crooked.
Some parts have a tightening sequence:
1. Snug the bolts down by finger tightening.
2. Tighten them by defined pattern or "around the clock" to partial torque spec.
3. repeat step 2 to full torque spec (or guesstimate).


----------



## expresso

ok i am using two cougar HP fans on this 920 -

i spoke to antec and told them - support told me the fans should be fine -

now - on my chill software - it shows liquid temps at 38 c at idle doing nothing - quiet setting - if i put it on extreme - it can drop down to 36C

but this is doing nothing - not stressing anything

the chill software is not showing me the sound level in numbers like the liquid temp - pump is making a little noise - not sure if it should make any noise or just not working correctly -

i have the usb connection in the board - but i did use a extension so i can go behind the board not over the board -

dont know if any of this can make a difference -

mounting it was done by hand to tighten it down -

is the unit suppose to make some sound or nothing at all -- and what are the liguid temps everyone else getting more or less

if my liquid temps are 38C -- the my CPU temps would be higher for sure ? they cant be lower than the liguid thats suppose to cool it - am i right ?


----------



## M3TAl

Well if you only hand tightened it then that could be a problem. Doubt the block is making proper contact with cpu.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> ok i am using two cougar HP fans on this 920 -
> i spoke to antec and told them - support told me the fans should be fine -
> now - on my chill software - it shows liquid temps at 38 c at idle doing nothing - quiet setting - if i put it on extreme - it can drop down to 36C
> but this is doing nothing - not stressing anything
> the chill software is not showing me the sound level in numbers like the liquid temp - pump is making a little noise - not sure if it should make any noise or just not working correctly -
> i have the usb connection in the board - but i did use a extension so i can go behind the board not over the board -
> dont know if any of this can make a difference -
> mounting it was done by hand to tighten it down -
> is the unit suppose to make some sound or nothing at all -- and what are the liguid temps everyone else getting more or less
> if my liquid temps are 38C -- the my CPU temps would be higher for sure ? they cant be lower than the liguid thats suppose to cool it - am i right ?


yeah you are right with the assumption.

Right now my idle idle temp is 32.3C with CPU temps at 30-36c.
I suggest checking the contact, and more so it looks like it is the pump that's having problems, as regardless of your CPU temps, the liquid temps shouldn't be that high.

I have my fans running at 1500RPM constantly, and they are the SP120's.

Put back the stock antec, don't have that by-pass and report back.


----------



## expresso

but its tighten down till you cant screw it any more -- you think i should use a screw driver instead of just turning it down -

the unit i got didnt have the color coded parts - looks to be new unit in parts compared to most i see on line -

my parts were all black -

do you know if i can use this cooler on the intel i7 chip if i decided to change over to that one ? then mount the new cooler -

i only had two sets of screws to use - and only one set was the correct one to fit in the backplate you push the pins in the back plate and only one set of screws fitted in there

how tight should i make it on the next unit - ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> but its tighten down till you cant screw it any more -- you think i should use a screw driver instead of just turning it down -
> the unit i got didnt have the color coded parts - looks to be new unit in parts compared to most i see on line -
> my parts were all black -
> do you know if i can use this cooler on the intel i7 chip if i decided to change over to that one ? then mount the new cooler -
> i only had two sets of screws to use - and only one set was the correct one to fit in the backplate you push the pins in the back plate and only one set of screws fitted in there
> how tight should i make it on the next unit - ?


read my installation guide:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1330317/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-a-full-installation-guide

It should give you good indications on how it should look like.


----------



## expresso

i seen that before - and i think its the same - i had to use the longer screws also - the other screws didnt fit the back plate pins anyway - so not sure what they are for -

i will double check the mounts - black rubber parts in the bracket - and see if i did that correct - it seems very easy - snapped into place - anything could be possiable - maybe i got them in wrong and then screwed it down -

or maybe i didnt screw them down enough - or just something wrong with my unit -

does your unit make any sound from the pump area ? are they suppose to be DEAD Silent or make some sound - if working correctly and last

what are your liquid temps at idle - and does your sound level numbers show on the Chill software -

mines dont show a sound level in numbers and liguid temps show 38 C when i turn on my system -

this could be the reason my system goes black and reboots - may be getting too hot


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i seen that before - and i think its the same - i had to use the longer screws also - the other screws didnt fit the back plate pins anyway - so not sure what they are for -
> i will double check the mounts - black rubber parts in the bracket - and see if i did that correct - it seems very easy - snapped into place - anything could be possiable - maybe i got them in wrong and then screwed it down -
> or maybe i didnt screw them down enough - or just something wrong with my unit -
> does your unit make any sound from the pump area ? are they suppose to be DEAD Silent or make some sound - if working correctly and last
> what are your liquid temps at idle - and does your sound level numbers show on the Chill software -
> mines dont show a sound level in numbers and liguid temps show 38 C when i turn on my system -
> this could be the reason my system goes black and reboots - may be getting too hot


highly doubt you looked at the guide - as it is relatively new!
as for temps, as said before: "Right now my idle idle temp is 32.3C with CPU temps at 30-36c."

My pump is silent.
Maybe try taking some pictures or a video to explain it better. Seems like you might need to RMA it.

The other screws, as a guess are used for the AMD mount.


----------



## expresso

i did RMA it - i am waiting on the new unit next week - i am using a AMD APU right now -

i did seen that quide maybe a week or two at most - searching google -

i am using the AMD bracket - and longer screws -

as it stands now - my unit makes some sound - noise - if it suppose to be DEAD quiet - then mines isnt

does your chill software show the sound level in numbers also ?

tomorrow i am taking it off and removing board also - i will RMA my board - APU - memory etc, and thinking of going all Intel now and add the new unit to the new intel build

i just dont want to make same mistakes if i made any with this cooler - in terms of using the right screws - which only long ones fit the pins anyway -

did you hand tighten it down or use a screw driver ? how tight should i tighten it down - when i open it tomorrow to remove it - i will check how tight it is just to know

your setup is a intel 3770k and your chill software shows 32C when you boot up and idle ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i did RMA it - i am waiting on the new unit next week - i am using a AMD APU right now -
> i did seen that quide maybe a week or two at most - searching google -
> i am using the AMD bracket - and longer screws -
> as it stands now - my unit makes some sound - noise - if it suppose to be DEAD quiet - then mines isnt
> does your chill software show the sound level in numbers also ?
> tomorrow i am taking it off and removing board also - i will RMA my board - APU - memory etc, and thinking of going all Intel now and add the new unit to the new intel build
> i just dont want to make same mistakes if i made any with this cooler - in terms of using the right screws - which only long ones fit the pins anyway -
> did you hand tighten it down or use a screw driver ? how tight should i tighten it down - when i open it tomorrow to remove it - i will check how tight it is just to know
> your setup is a intel 3770k and your chill software shows 32C when you boot up and idle ?


I'm confused, what are you RMA'ing bro?
You HAVE TO use a screwdriver for the process - or else you won't get a good lock/tight fit.

At boot, after waking up in the morning I'm at around 27-28c


----------



## bf3player1978

whats the best way to face the push / pull fans on these coolers? i have mine as intake right now. core temp reads 12c idle.









thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> whats the best way to face the push / pull fans on these coolers? i have mine as intake right now. core temp reads 12c idle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


outtake as on high loads for a while, hot air will be blown out of the case


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> outtake as on high loads for a while, hot air will be blown out of the case


so i need to turn my fans around?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> so i need to turn my fans around?


you don't have to, but that's what I have in my setup.


----------



## expresso

sorry for the confusing last posts -

from the start - i put together a system with the 920 cooler - on a FM2 board - A10 and Crucial memory -

first thing -- the high temps - is what i see - and chill software does not read any Sound level in dbs -- liquid temps read 38C idle -

i did a RMA on the cooler - after speaking to support - i will be removing the 920 tomorrow and when i do - i will check the screws to see if they are loose or tight -- i believe i hand tighten them and were tight - now if i try to further tighten them with a screw drivers - its possible there is more to tighten or not -

i will check that tomorrow before i remove it - since i already RMA the cooler - i will return this one and try the new one -

now - my system been having problems - screen goes black and shuts done - reboots - and when i go to shut down windows - it dosnt shut down - it reboots again - i have to use the power button to shut it down -

not sure what that is - but the black screen and shut down - thats something - it can also be that the cooler is not working correctly or i didnt tighten down enough to make it work correctly - either way now - its running hot - maybe thats the reason for the black screen and shut down on its own

i have decided since i am taking everything apart again - i will change out everything and replace with

the Intel i7 - new board - new chip - new memory and now the new cooler - start over again

its very possible this is all a cooler issue - making it run hot and shut down on its own -

does your cooler chill software show the sound level in db's ? and does it run Dead quiet ?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> whats the best way to face the push / pull fans on these coolers? i have mine as intake right now. core temp reads 12c idle.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks


As you probably know 12c at idle is impossible unless your ambient is 12c or lower. The zambezi and piledrivers do not read accurately at idle. Only at load it gets accurate (which is the only important temp anyways).


----------



## bf3player1978

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> As you probably know 12c at idle is impossible unless your ambient is 12c or lower. The zambezi and piledrivers do not read accurately at idle. Only at load it gets accurate (which is the only important temp anyways).


so i will keep my fans at their current state. i doubt turning them around would cause a temp drop.


----------



## expresso

what would a good load temp should be for a A10 processor ?

would 84C be good or too high ?


----------



## K62-RIG

I have tried both intake and exhaust with mine and didn't notice that much of a difference so I put them back to exhaust just so I didn't have to dust filter the fans.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> what would a good load temp should be for a A10 processor ?
> would 84C be good or too high ?


For the most part AMD has a max around 70C. For a lot of the bulldozer and piledriver chips the max it 62C but around 70C your PC will shut down to protect itself. Since it is made with piledriver cores I would try to keep it under 65C.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> sorry for the confusing last posts -
> from the start - i put together a system with the 920 cooler - on a FM2 board - A10 and Crucial memory -
> first thing -- the high temps - is what i see - and chill software does not read any Sound level in dbs -- liquid temps read 38C idle -
> i did a RMA on the cooler - after speaking to support - i will be removing the 920 tomorrow and when i do - i will check the screws to see if they are loose or tight -- i believe i hand tighten them and were tight - now if i try to further tighten them with a screw drivers - its possible there is more to tighten or not -
> i will check that tomorrow before i remove it - since i already RMA the cooler - i will return this one and try the new one -
> now - my system been having problems - screen goes black and shuts done - reboots - and when i go to shut down windows - it dosnt shut down - it reboots again - i have to use the power button to shut it down -
> not sure what that is - but the black screen and shut down - thats something - it can also be that the cooler is not working correctly or i didnt tighten down enough to make it work correctly - either way now - its running hot - maybe thats the reason for the black screen and shut down on its own
> i have decided since i am taking everything apart again - i will change out everything and replace with
> the Intel i7 - new board - new chip - new memory and now the new cooler - start over again
> its very possible this is all a cooler issue - making it run hot and shut down on its own -
> does your cooler chill software show the sound level in db's ? and does it run Dead quiet ?


hmmm I think you have a seriously flawed system mate - if the PC behaves like that. The cooler is the last thing I would worry about there...
Either you have OC'ed and it is screwed, either your CPU is gone, or your cooler is bust - or all of them...lol

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> As you probably know 12c at idle is impossible unless your ambient is 12c or lower. The zambezi and piledrivers do not read accurately at idle. Only at load it gets accurate (which is the only important temp anyways).


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> so i will keep my fans at their current state. i doubt turning them around would cause a temp drop.


What he means is that having 12c is not possible for case temps - unless it is super cold in your room.
Try testing at full load, and see how temps are with the fans the other way round.
I suggest the fans to be pushing OUT of your case, simply because of what I said before, and the heat becoming very hot.

Basically I had them mistakenly put inward facing, and I thought it was fine at first, after my pc being on for 5hrs, with little to no load, I opened the case to check for something, and it was stupidly hot inside, that I opened the case for it to cool down. Although bearing in mind that was without a proper air flow in my case at the time.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bf3player1978*
> 
> so i need to turn my fans around?


That's based on if you want lower case temps or lower cpu temps. As a general rule having the rad as intake = lower cpu temp higher case temp (northbridge, vrm, gpu's maybe) and having rad as exhaust results in higher cpu temp and lower case temps.

Really I recommend to EVERYONE with a 620/920 (or any AIO cooler) try as many rad positions and fan setups as possible in a controlled testing manner. Such as 20min prime95 and record your ambient temp or try to keep ambient temp as close as the same as possible. This is what I did and worked best for me.


----------



## Maximization

Different points on view on this, The Kühler instructions state to use push/pull fans and use warm case air to cool its rad pointing airflow outward. On my Silverstone Raven 3 case the instructions specificly state the opposite, basicly only use push/pull fans and cool the rad using outside air only going into case. The silverstone point of view makes sense. How many cars have the radiator near the fire wall behind the engine? They always have the radiator in front of the engine where it gets the outside air first.


----------



## stickg1

If you have decent airflow in your case the air inside the case should be close to the air outside the case. I use my rad fans as exhaust because the air passing through the rads gets hotter and needs to be immediately expelled from the case.


----------



## bf3player1978

i have two 120mm in front blowing in, 2 120mm on top as exhaust, and my push/pull as intake. i have good airflow.


----------



## expresso

yeah thats why i am not going to try to figure out what part is the bad part - could be more than one

i didnt OC - - first off - its my temps were always high - and that could have been the cooler - for what ever reason - bad unit - didnt mount it tight enough etc, - at this point - dosnt matter anymore -

i got a new cooler coming on tuesday - i am taking the board - chip and memory out tomorrow -- shipping it all back - and start fresh with new parts -

since i am back to square one - i have to decide which board to use - memory etc, - most likely going with the intel this time i7 3770k

would you have any suggestions on - a good decent stable Board for the i7 - and 16 gig kit ? two sticks -

the parts i am sending back are the AMD A10 - Gigabyte FM2 UP4 board which looks very cool - but bios seemed iffy - and crucial tracer memory -

i am afraid to try Gigabyte now - unless theres a good unit out for the i7 - was looking at MSI or even intel board -

i dont see much about intel boards - any idea how good they are ? compared to the rest of the brands - ASUS - Gigabyte - MSI etc, -

last the memory - i want something to just work at rated speed when installed - if i have to set it to XMP profile - thats fine - easy to do - but dont want to ticker with the settings just yet - not right away -

i want it stock first to make sure its all working and stable - all this has been stressing me out -- too many issues all at once - and all parts were new - i didnt try to cut corners -- and i ended up this way --

Another question - My PSU is a Corsair TX750 - worked fine before all the time - but now in this case - Corsair 300 - the PSU is on the bottom and the fan is facing down in the case -- i wonder if thats correct - i mean - is the fan pushing air out or pulling air in ?

this was the only way that it fitted in the case - looks correct - - on my old case - it was on top sideways - so the fan was exposed -

now its on the bottom of my Case - Fan is down - you dont see it - just want to double check that its correct that way -

the case will be placed in a Cpu holder under my desk when done -


----------



## M3TAl

The only Intel board I ever had was a Socket 478. Zero OC options but it worked... I guess that's a plus. Not sure how the Intel boards are these days.

Most power supplies with a single fan are intake. They face downwards on bottom of case and intake air. You can tell from the angle of the fan blades.

You only hand tightened the screws for the block!! I still firmly believe you need to get a screwdriver and get them tightened up more. Contact is very important. If you just took one of those massive cpu coolers and laid it on a cpu without properly tightening it down temps would be horrible. The block needs to be tightened down all the way.


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> the chill software is not showing me the sound level in numbers like the liquid temp - pump is making a little noise - not sure if it should make any noise or just not working correctly -


It's normal for version 1.2 of ChillControl software to not show sound level numbers. The bar graph works but there are no numbers.
The earlier version 1.0 of the ChillControl software did show sound level numbers "in db" but they were just a guess based on the fan speed.
(In fact one day I got curious, did some research, and discovered that all the code was doing was dividing the fan speed by 45).
I guess when upgrading the code they decided the approximation was worthless and took out it out of the display.

As far as the pump itself making noise is concerned, mine is so quiet it's hard to tell it runs. Even if it make a bit of sound I wouldn't be concerned. If you got a quiet one too count you blessings - others apparently have ended up with real "grinders".


----------



## expresso

the 920 cooler has screws which you use your hands to tighten it down - now if you needed to use a screwdriver also after you hand tighten all the way down - maybe that was my mistake

i will check it when i remove it tomorrow - i will use a screw driver just to see if i am able to tighten it more - if so - then its a good guess it wasnt making good contact - if its tight already - then most likely bad unit -

still sound coming from the pump - not loud but i can hear it when fans on low - fans on high - i dont hear the pump - not using stock fans - cougar hp fans - so not screaming loud when on high

i am looking over some intel boards - hoping to pick one - to make a good match with the i7 -


----------



## expresso

i would be concerned too much with pump sound if i seen that the temps were good - now - if its something i didnt tighten down enough - then who knows - it may have been a good unit -
since telling me you dont see the sound level in numbers anymore - - thats not a issue - i though that was something -

i find out tomorrow how good it was screwed down -

i am getting a new one on tuesday - so will use the new one on my new build - it should fit with the 1155 socket intel right ?


----------



## M3TAl

Is the pump running at full rpm?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Different points on view on this, The Kühler instructions state to use push/pull fans and use warm case air to cool its rad pointing airflow outward. On my Silverstone Raven 3 case the instructions specificly state the opposite, basicly only use push/pull fans and cool the rad using outside air only going into case. The silverstone point of view makes sense. How many cars have the radiator near the fire wall behind the engine? They always have the radiator in front of the engine where it gets the outside air first.


Although the difference with a car, si that there is a CONSTANT stream of cold air hitting the rad as you drive, ambient temperature is often lower than inside the car (depends on where you live of course)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> yeah thats why i am not going to try to figure out what part is the bad part - could be more than one
> i didnt OC - - first off - its my temps were always high - and that could have been the cooler - for what ever reason - bad unit - didnt mount it tight enough etc, - at this point - dosnt matter anymore -
> i got a new cooler coming on tuesday - i am taking the board - chip and memory out tomorrow -- shipping it all back - and start fresh with new parts -
> since i am back to square one - i have to decide which board to use - memory etc, - most likely going with the intel this time i7 3770k
> would you have any suggestions on - a good decent stable Board for the i7 - and 16 gig kit ? two sticks -
> the parts i am sending back are the AMD A10 - Gigabyte FM2 UP4 board which looks very cool - but bios seemed iffy - and crucial tracer memory -
> i am afraid to try Gigabyte now - unless theres a good unit out for the i7 - was looking at MSI or even intel board -
> i dont see much about intel boards - any idea how good they are ? compared to the rest of the brands - ASUS - Gigabyte - MSI etc, -
> last the memory - i want something to just work at rated speed when installed - if i have to set it to XMP profile - thats fine - easy to do - but dont want to ticker with the settings just yet - not right away -
> i want it stock first to make sure its all working and stable - all this has been stressing me out -- too many issues all at once - and all parts were new - i didnt try to cut corners -- and i ended up this way --
> Another question - My PSU is a Corsair TX750 - worked fine before all the time - but now in this case - Corsair 300 - the PSU is on the bottom and the fan is facing down in the case -- i wonder if thats correct - i mean - is the fan pushing air out or pulling air in ?
> this was the only way that it fitted in the case - looks correct - - on my old case - it was on top sideways - so the fan was exposed -
> now its on the bottom of my Case - Fan is down - you dont see it - just want to double check that its correct that way -
> the case will be placed in a Cpu holder under my desk when done -


Check my rig out, I think you'll be building something similar







!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hangman*
> 
> It's normal for version 1.2 of ChillControl software to not show sound level numbers. The bar graph works but there are no numbers.
> The earlier version 1.0 of the ChillControl software did show sound level numbers "in db" but they were just a guess based on the fan speed.
> (In fact one day I got curious, did some research, and discovered that all the code was doing was dividing the fan speed by 45).
> I guess when upgrading the code they decided the approximation was worthless and took out it out of the display.
> As far as the pump itself making noise is concerned, mine is so quiet it's hard to tell it runs. Even if it make a bit of sound I wouldn't be concerned. If you got a quiet one too count you blessings - others apparently have ended up with real "grinders".


Correct me if I'm wrong but last time I asked it, it has to do with the pin configuration of the fans - and thus why the software can't give you db noise levels
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> the 920 cooler has screws which you use your hands to tighten it down - now if you needed to use a screwdriver also after you hand tighten all the way down - maybe that was my mistake
> i will check it when i remove it tomorrow - i will use a screw driver just to see if i am able to tighten it more - if so - then its a good guess it wasnt making good contact - if its tight already - then most likely bad unit -
> still sound coming from the pump - not loud but i can hear it when fans on low - fans on high - i dont hear the pump - not using stock fans - cougar hp fans - so not screaming loud when on high
> i am looking over some intel boards - hoping to pick one - to make a good match with the i7 -


Definitely the problem. That'#s where your high temps come in.
As for pump - it should be running at 3k speed


----------



## stickg1

I don't understand how you go from a budget A10 build to a full blown i7 with Ivy build! I probably would have skipped the A10 altogether if I had the money for an Ivy Bridge!! Whats the budget for a board?

ASRock has the Z77 Extreme 4 and Extreme 6 that are pretty good.

ASUS has the quite a few, I like that P8Z77-V Pro but the plain V (non-Pro) is good too. They have some lower and higher quality models on this line too that are also nice.

GIGABYTE has a few good ones, the GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H is very popular with overclockers, the UD3H is pretty good too at about $30 less.

If you go MSI you really need the Z77A-GD65 or GD80 otherwise forget about it.

There's quite a few good boards out there but the ones above I have either used and approved or have read a ton about them or heard love stories from friends about them and would recommend them to anyone. These boards listed are all moderately priced at $130-$200. There are some better boards but they cost more. Unless your trying to do extreme overclocking or need 3x/4x GPUs the ones above are great.


----------



## Wookieelover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spad007*
> 
> photographs?


Here you go sir


AMD x4 955 BE overclocked to 3.9ghz
It doesnt even break a sweat anymore.
Motherboard holding the overclock back atm.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Ooh. Just seen this club.









I have a 620 on my stock 3570k, with two Gentle Typhoon AP-14's in Push/Pull. Performs well in my hot, cramped case.



















Excuse the semi-messy cabling. Re-arranged the hard drives now and cleaned it up, and added two more sticks of RAM since they were taken.

I much prefer the tubing on these to the ones on the Corsair units.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Sexy case, sexy build - but very cramped!


----------



## expresso

The pump runs about 2900 - maybe 2920 - etc, - i never seen it hit 3000 -

about the fin pin - i have no idea - i do notice the Cpu Header on the board is 3 pin - which is strange - the other fan headers on my board are 4 pin -

all i did was plug in the wire from the 920 into the Cpu fan header on my board - you can only push it in one way i believe

i have the fans in a push - pull -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I don't understand how you go from a budget A10 build to a full blown i7 with Ivy build! I probably would have skipped the A10 altogether if I had the money for an Ivy Bridge!! Whats the budget for a board?
> ASRock has the Z77 Extreme 4 and Extreme 6 that are pretty good.
> ASUS has the quite a few, I like that P8Z77-V Pro but the plain V (non-Pro) is good too. They have some lower and higher quality models on this line too that are also nice.
> GIGABYTE has a few good ones, the GIGABYTE GA-Z77X-UD5H is very popular with overclockers, the UD3H is pretty good too at about $30 less.
> If you go MSI you really need the Z77A-GD65 or GD80 otherwise forget about it.
> There's quite a few good boards out there but the ones above I have either used and approved or have read a ton about them or heard love stories from friends about them and would recommend them to anyone. These boards listed are all moderately priced at $130-$200. There are some better boards but they cost more. Unless your trying to do extreme overclocking or need 3x/4x GPUs the ones above are great.


Hi - yeah well its my fault since i been out of this scene for a long time - i had a AMD since DFI landparty days - and just figured i stay with AMD - when the A10 came out- i figured ok - not bad etc, and just went with that - i was thinking a simple upgrade but ended up starting all new anyway except for my PSU - should have to known then to look at other parts just to compare -

i never looked over any intel till now - budget wasnt the issue - just didnt look at others and went with the A10 - everything is coming out tonight - and i will check those pump screws -

any ideas about the intel boards ? i guess i am at the 200 range with intel boards - so i like to stick to that range for the board -- or under if i can - this build turned out more than i expected - at this point
i dont care - just want it to work and work fast -

so i should check those models you posted - any thing else - other models - i am not looking to add video cards - and if i did down the line - i would add just one good card -

any more suggestions - ideas that can help me get this going - just post - i will look into all the models etc, - its getting too confusing for me to decide - since i dont know much with intel at all - boards and always been with AMD - but even that - i havnt been doing this for the past 6 years - i havnt kept up to speed with latest items -


----------



## stickg1

The ASRock Z77 Extreme6, ASUS P8Z77-V PRO, and Gigabyte Z77-UD5H are my top three picks. I don't know much about Intel brand boards but the VRM heatsinks look crappy unless you spend $250 but for that money you could get a much better board from other brands.


----------



## M3TAl

stickg1, didn't you have a 8320/8350? Or am I imagining that?

Not trying to be a hater, just curious why you switched and how you're enjoying the ivy experience over vishera etc...


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> stickg1, didn't you have a 8320/8350? Or am I imagining that?
> Not trying to be a hater, just curious why you switched and how you're enjoying the ivy experience over vishera etc...


I did have a Vishera! I really liked it, I only sold it because I had previously listed that PC on Craigslist with the FX-8150 before Piledriver came out. Well I forgot to take the ad down and a professional photographer/videographer was interested in it. I told him the upgrades I had made and he said even better! I told him everything was pretty much new and I asked basically retail price for everything and I didn't think he would want it. Well he said he would rather have a working and pre-assembled system than build his own, so he paid me even more to come out to his town and set it all up for him. I kept my GPU, PSU, SSD, and HDDs. He had his own. He wanted all the other stuff though (Case, Mobo, CPU, Antec Kuhler, RAM). So when I was going to rebuild I knew I needed a nicer motherboard and the 8350 instead of the 8320, if I was going to have the optimal overclocking experience. But I was thinking about it and I don't do anything too intensive on the computer, just gaming and browsing. There were some great -$30 off combos on Newegg.com (it was Black Friday/Cyber Monday) so I figured I might as well take advantage of the deals. Bottom line is it was cheaper to build my current system and the budget allowed me to get a nicer case. Also a little perk was on my way home with a pocket full of cash I stopped at a Best Buy in a small town and they had Kuhler 620s for $40!!!! I bought two.

I like the Ivy experience, I got a pretty crappy chip though. I liked my Vishera too. It was just cheaper, that's why, no hate towards AMD. Just budgeting that's all.


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong but last time I asked it, it has to do with the pin configuration of the fans - and thus why the software can't give you db noise levels


I don't know if the 920's pumps' mcu has a microphone built-in to listen for noise amplitude but I don't think so. Even so, the "db" display numbers were calculated from the fan rpm as reported by the mcu via the usb port. So you're not wrong - changing or removing the fans on the pins would undoubtedbly affect the mcu's readings. In the absence of a microphone, they probably originally came up with the rpm/45 db guestimate based on noise curves of the stock fans.


----------



## Roder J

Well from what little I've read so far it would seem that Antec makes a pretty decent cooler and that the majority is happy with them.
I have a 920 I just pulled off a friends machine that after he blew out the case cleaning it he killed the fan but coincdently th pump started really growling and was failing, temps in the 90c . he wanted me to just scrap it and he went back to air cooled since it's just a work pc. I'm thinking of seeing if I can get Antec to waranty it or repair it and putting it on either my rig or my youngest sons ..


----------



## M3TAl

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I did have a Vishera! I really liked it, I only sold it because I had previously listed that PC on Craigslist with the FX-8150 before Piledriver came out. Well I forgot to take the ad down and a professional photographer/videographer was interested in it. I told him the upgrades I had made and he said even better! I told him everything was pretty much new and I asked basically retail price for everything and I didn't think he would want it. Well he said he would rather have a working and pre-assembled system than build his own, so he paid me even more to come out to his town and set it all up for him. I kept my GPU, PSU, SSD, and HDDs. He had his own. He wanted all the other stuff though (Case, Mobo, CPU, Antec Kuhler, RAM). So when I was going to rebuild I knew I needed a nicer motherboard and the 8350 instead of the 8320, if I was going to have the optimal overclocking experience. But I was thinking about it and I don't do anything too intensive on the computer, just gaming and browsing. There were some great -$30 off combos on Newegg.com (it was Black Friday/Cyber Monday) so I figured I might as well take advantage of the deals. Bottom line is it was cheaper to build my current system and the budget allowed me to get a nicer case. Also a little perk was on my way home with a pocket full of cash I stopped at a Best Buy in a small town and they had Kuhler 620s for $40!!!! I bought two.
> I like the Ivy experience, I got a pretty crappy chip though. I liked my Vishera too. It was just cheaper, that's why, no hate towards AMD. Just budgeting that's all.






That's awesome! You got quite the deal.

Honestly I would prefer to be on Intel but I'm the kind of person who keeps their parts for LONG time and upgrades one piece at a time... long term... Been stuck on AMD for years lol. But it's not all bad I guess. Upgrading to Intel board and cpu all at once is just too much for me for now. I only just recently upgraded to DDR3 when I got this new board haha.

So with all those extra 620's... are you going to put them on some gpu's?


----------



## oddworld

Whats the normal speed for the pump on the 620? mine is running at 1450 rpms.


----------



## M3TAl

That's perfectly normal. The actual rpm is double that. Don't know why it reads half but it does.

And just to make you feel better about that 1450rpm here's mine:


----------



## par

what sw you used to see the speed of the pump?

I can only see it with chill control V (I have h2o 920), other sw do not see


----------



## alancsalt

Speedfan, with edited tags?


----------



## par

I hate speedfan









i have aida64 extreme , hwinfo64 , hwmonitor pro.. no one show pump rpm..

maybe, the h2o 620 for the pump have a 3/4 pin connector (like a fan connector)?

the 920 have a internal usb connection + 4 pin fan connector.. i think the 4 pin is only for fans, and for power and control of pump it use the internal usb..


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's awesome! You got quite the deal.
> Honestly I would prefer to be on Intel but I'm the kind of person who keeps their parts for LONG time and upgrades one piece at a time... long term... Been stuck on AMD for years lol. But it's not all bad I guess. Upgrading to Intel board and cpu all at once is just too much for me for now. I only just recently upgraded to DDR3 when I got this new board haha.
> So with all those extra 620's... are you going to put them on some gpu's?


I sold my spare 620 to a friend of mine. That Best Buy isn't far and is in a po-dunk little town where PC parts don't move too well. They had a EVGA GTX560 SC 2GB for $125, I might go check to see if that's still around, and there were 2 620's left last time I was there. Also they have this "Rocketfish CPU Cooler" and it's just a rebranded CoolerMaster TX3, for only $12 so I bought two of those, and they had Antec Formula 7 for $7 a tube so I bought three of those, lol. I cleaned up!


----------



## Maximization

I just got my 920 in yesterday. It actually has a sticker on the box that says, "socket 2011 ready". I sent an email to Antec requesting a bracket thinking it was an older unit i was getting a few days ago. Can't wait to get all the other parts and install this.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The ASRock Z77 Extreme6, ASUS P8Z77-V PRO, and Gigabyte Z77-UD5H are my top three picks. I don't know much about Intel brand boards but the VRM heatsinks look crappy unless you spend $250 but for that money you could get a much better board from other brands.


thanks - it looks like maybe i give Gigabyte another shot - with that model - only thing is looks smaller than the normal size ATX - is that the standard ATX board ?

this board for the i7 chip - what socket would this be considered - socket 1155 ?

the 920 brackets i have should fit with this board also - ? just seems a bit strange the bracket - back plate i would need to use on intel board - that i have with the 920 cooler -

i have to double check -

now if i would get the Gigabyte board - i7 chip - what would be good memory which i can use with the build in intel profile so i can just pick that profile in the bios and be done with the memory

i want a 16 gig kit - two sticks - i just want it to work at rated speed when installed - then pick the profile and be done -

any suggestions with brand etc, - dont want a issue where its not compatible -

thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> thanks - it looks like maybe i give Gigabyte another shot - with that model - only thing is looks smaller than the normal size ATX - is that the standard ATX board ?
> this board for the i7 chip - what socket would this be considered - socket 1155 ?
> the 920 brackets i have should fit with this board also - ? just seems a bit strange the bracket - back plate i would need to use on intel board - that i have with the 920 cooler -
> i have to double check -
> now if i would get the Gigabyte board - i7 chip - what would be good memory which i can use with the build in intel profile so i can just pick that profile in the bios and be done with the memory
> i want a 16 gig kit - two sticks - i just want it to work at rated speed when installed - then pick the profile and be done -
> any suggestions with brand etc, - dont want a issue where its not compatible -
> thanks


First choose your motherboard, then based on that, choose your RAM.
I suggest:
G skills, Corsair, Samsung as brands to look at.

Also 1600mhz is more than enough for rated speed @ CAS 9.
Anything below CAS 9 becomes expensive and above 1600 too. More so, you won't really notice the difference


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> First choose your motherboard, then based on that, choose your RAM.
> I suggest:
> G skills, Corsair, Samsung as brands to look at.
> Also 1600mhz is more than enough for rated speed @ CAS 9.
> Anything below CAS 9 becomes expensive and above 1600 too. More so, you won't really notice the difference


thanks - i will do that - having a hard time picking a board - i am a bit confused with these socket numbers - i was under the impression that the i7 3rd gen 3770K is a LGA 1155 - but i also see a LGA 2011

Which socket Board do i need to be looking for - reading new egg reviews is scary now even with the Gigabyte board UD5 i think


----------



## stickg1

If you get the 3770k you need socket 1155. For RAM just get something with an XMP profile. Crucial makes good RAM too.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> thanks - i will do that - having a hard time picking a board - i am a bit confused with these socket numbers - i was under the impression that the i7 3rd gen 3770K is a LGA 1155 - but i also see a LGA 2011
> Which socket Board do i need to be looking for - reading new egg reviews is scary now even with the Gigabyte board UD5 i think


Z77 board on LGA1155 - look aat a few - as I said before, asus, asrock are good board hardware wise.
The decision etc is up to you, and your own research


----------



## spad007

http://www.asrock.com/microsite/OCFormula/


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> the 920 have a internal usb connection + 4 pin fan connector.. i think the 4 pin is only for fans, and for power and control of pump it use the internal usb..


sorry, I was wrong

the 4 pin connector of antec 920 don't serves only for the fans, but it serves also for the pump. if this cable is not connected, the pump is switched off

Now I connected the fans directly on mobo, on cpu fan connector, and the pump of antec on chassis fan connector

but still can not detect the rpm of the pump (it's possible only with chill control V) ..

the mobo is a asus p8z77-i deluxe

I try to set in bios chassis fan in all possibile methods

-ignore
-monitor - qfan off
-monitor - qfan on

aida64, hwinfo64, hwmonitor, and also speedfan, don't read the rpm of pump..

I'm missing something?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> what sw you used to see the speed of the pump?
> I can only see it with chill control V (I have h2o 920), other sw do not see


Using Open Hardware Monitor (free program looks just like cpuid hwmonitor) and yes I edited the tags. My pump is plugged into one of my motherboard fan headers...


Spoiler: Warning: Pic of OpenHWMon!







Don't know why but all programs I've used have problems reading my 2nd gpu sometimes (AMD control center, AfterBurner, monitor programs etc...) and I'm not sure if that's normal or not. Sometimes it gets read sometimes not.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I sold my spare 620 to a friend of mine. That Best Buy isn't far and is in a po-dunk little town where PC parts don't move too well. They had a EVGA GTX560 SC 2GB for $125, I might go check to see if that's still around, and there were 2 620's left last time I was there. Also they have this "Rocketfish CPU Cooler" and it's just a rebranded CoolerMaster TX3, for only $12 so I bought two of those, and they had Antec Formula 7 for $7 a tube so I bought three of those, lol. I cleaned up!


LOL, are you stocking up for the winter (or should I say summer)?


----------



## expresso

thanks - the more i look at these boards from all the brands - read some reviews - newegg etc, - i get more confused - from the Neg. reviews -

does anyone use MSI boards ?


----------



## expresso

Are there two XMP profiles in the Ram now - 1.3 and 1.2 profile ?

do all the Boards support this XMP profile ?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> LOL, are you stocking up for the winter (or should I say summer)?


Mostly just as trade ammo. I have a few buddies from various forums that I trade with frequently or use stuff to barter.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> thanks - the more i look at these boards from all the brands - read some reviews - newegg etc, - i get more confused - from the Neg. reviews -
> does anyone use MSI boards ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Are there two XMP profiles in the Ram now - 1.3 and 1.2 profile ?
> do all the Boards support this XMP profile ?


Newegg reviews are to be taken with a grain of salt. All those guys claiming to have 5 star tech knowledge are usually liars and didn't even graduate high school.

So, here it is...

Your new motherboard:
ASRock Z77 Extreme6 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157295

It comes with 8GB of decent RAM for free. It does use an XMP profile, and all Intel 1155 chips support XMP profiles. I remember you saying you wanted 16GB, I'm not sure why but you can get another matching kit, or since it was free just sell it on ebay, trade with a friend, use it on a different computer, or stockpile it in your shed with canned food and toilet paper anticipating Doomsday, doesn't matter.









Matching kit:
G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416

Great 16GB (2x8GB) kit:
G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series 16GB
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231609

Same stuff, higher capacity.

What else are you looking for? You need a case, PSU, SSD, HDD, GPU? Let me know. I will give you all the parts tonight. I charge a small non-negotiable fee of 30% ;P


----------



## expresso

nice memory - i figure since i am doing it - why not put in 16 gig - should be more than enough - but getting 8 gig free is not bad -

nice board - but how good are they in general - i mean long term - reliable ? stable -

what makes you pick this one over the others - Gigabyte - Asus - MSI - etc, - i just curious - because i cant pick one anyone - i look at so many - that i cant pick one now -

does Asrock boards come with some automatic OC feature ? and how good does that work if it comes with it -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Mostly just as trade ammo. I have a few buddies from various forums that I trade with frequently or use stuff to barter.
> Newegg reviews are to be taken with a grain of salt. All those guys claiming to have 5 star tech knowledge are usually liars and didn't even graduate high school.
> 
> So, here it is...
> Your new motherboard:
> ASRock Z77 Extreme6 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157295
> It comes with 8GB of decent RAM for free. It does use an XMP profile, and all Intel 1155 chips support XMP profiles. I remember you saying you wanted 16GB, I'm not sure why but you can get another matching kit, or since it was free just sell it on ebay, trade with a friend, use it on a different computer, or stockpile it in your shed with canned food and toilet paper anticipating Doomsday, doesn't matter.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Matching kit:
> G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3 1600 - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231416
> Great 16GB (2x8GB) kit:
> G.SKILL Sniper Gaming Series 16GB
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231609
> Same stuff, higher capacity.
> What else are you looking for? You need a case, PSU, SSD, HDD, GPU? Let me know. I will give you all the parts tonight. I charge a small non-negotiable fee of 30% ;P


thanks for your help -

i got a nice little case already - i have two WD blacks - a Vertex 4 SSD - blu ray burner - dvd burner - - fan controller - 2x 140mm front fans - 2x 140 mm top fans pulling out - - one cougar fan on the side window pushing in - i just got my new 920 in the mail today - corsair tx750 PSU - and just sitting here empty - no board - chip -memory -

i just had a bad experience - so worried about next board - etc, - actually i am concerned about the 920 cooler when i mount it again - i hope it gets a good seal contact


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> nice memory - i figure since i am doing it - why not put in 16 gig - should be more than enough - but getting 8 gig free is not bad -
> nice board - but how good are they in general - i mean long term - reliable ? stable -
> what makes you pick this one over the others - Gigabyte - Asus - MSI - etc, - i just curious - because i cant pick one anyone - i look at so many - that i cant pick one now -
> does Asrock boards come with some automatic OC feature ? and how good does that work if it comes with it -


I picked it because its a good board with a good track record. Its a good deal especially with a free $40 kit of RAM. Most boards will auto OC, most auto OCs aren't very good. You're much better of learning to do it manually. That's another reason I didn't pick a hugely expensive board for you because it sounds like you don't need all the extra extreme overclocking features. So you're going to be a good candidate for a nice $150 board like the one I picked.


----------



## M3TAl

Honestly you should pick a board more on the layout and sata connections etc (assuming the boards you're looking at are all of comparable build quality). Just whatever layout and features work best for you. It doesn't sound like you're trying to do any serious overclocking so which board has higher max oc shouldn't matter for you.

I would assume just about any board from Asus, Gigabyte, and Asrock in the $150+ range will all be stable for your purposes and comparable in quality and features.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I picked it because its a good board with a good track record. Its a good deal especially with a free $40 kit of RAM. Most boards will auto OC, most auto OCs aren't very good. You're much better of learning to do it manually. That's another reason I didn't pick a hugely expensive board for you because it sounds like you don't need all the extra extreme overclocking features. So you're going to be a good candidate for a nice $150 board like the one I picked.


your right - i am not going to OC on my own to the extreme - i mean if i can get settings from someone and i would follow those - ok - i do it - but i cant do like it did in the past - its just too much trail and error and down time - its not fun for me that way now -

i done it years ago - i just want a fast - OC to a stable speed - for everyday use - i mean even stock i7 is going to be blazing fast for me now - so a mild OC - is fine -

i do like the memory to run at least at its rated speeds - if the XMP profile works and makes it better - thats great - but at least at 1600 at those timings are great -

most default to lower speeds - then i have to manually do it - which i have tried with the last board - Gigiabyte FM2 board - Crucial tracer kit - 1866 - and i could get it to run at 1600

there was a profile in the bios but it didnt work just by picking it - so not sure what other settings had to be done - either way - it didnt work out - i just sent it back now - something was off - either the board - the chip - the cooler maybe wasnt cooling or mounted correctly and wasnt cooling - what ever it was - too much to figure out - and decided to start fresh with i7

now i am worried - i just want a good decent board - memory - and i7 going in - hopefully mount the cooler correctly and tight - hopefully it works - and just want to install win 8 and fix it up with my programs - make a imagine and thats it -

i dont want to see error codes on the board - or shutting down on its own - rebooting - not able to shut down - it didnt shut down when i click shut down - it went down and rebooting -

i had to force programs to close before it woud shut down - only programs i had open were firefox browsers and chill software from antec - never done that before with my old system -

i dont expect these issues with a brand new system in 2012 - i mean come on - should be more plug and play now - i think it got more complicated since the days i done it -


----------



## M3TAl

Ah, just the nature of the beast.... There will always be new problems with all this new technology. But for most of us here at OCN that's half the fun right there







. We like to tinker with our toys as much as possible and figure out every little flaw and detail.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Honestly you should pick a board more on the layout and sata connections etc (assuming the boards you're looking at are all of comparable build quality). Just whatever layout and features work best for you. It doesn't sound like you're trying to do any serious overclocking so which board has higher max oc shouldn't matter for you.
> I would assume just about any board from Asus, Gigabyte, and Asrock in the $150+ range will all be stable for your purposes and comparable in quality and features.


your right about the connections also - i notice alot of boards - all top end and then short on certain connections -

i have 3 drives with Sata 3 6 gig speed - so would be nice to have at least 3 of those connections on board - the blu ray burner and dvd burner - i dont think they need sata 3 6 connections right ?

those should be fine with the sata 2 or sata 3 3 gig - or do they benefit from sata 3 also ?

i need a usb 3.0 connection on the board for my front panel usb - audio etc, - a nice amount of usb in the rear 2.0 and 3.0 - and would like a bios button or cmos rest button in the rear - in the event i lock it up - i dont have to remove the case from under the desk - open the case and reset it -

now the gigabyte boards come with that dual bios which may be good for that purpose - i was not crazy about the bios with gigabyte board - but who knows the others - may be even worse - or better i dont know -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ah, just the nature of the beast.... There will always be new problems with all this new technology. But for most of us here at OCN that's half the fun right there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . We like to tinker with our toys as much as possible and figure out every little flaw and detail.


your right - i was into that myself back then - its not so funny for me now -







but i get it - it was the reason i went this way also - nice looking parts - case etc, - and i look like my case - it came out nice - neat - black and orange for the fans - looks pretty nice -

then all down hill - haha -

my last system was nice and water cooled with danger den parts - large rad etc, - but its old - and dead now anyway - i have a friend playing around with it to see whats wrong - i think a bad psu there or some wiring issue -


----------



## expresso

back then when i did my last system - there was a support site for DFI landparty boards - and i got alot of help from there - which made it fun for me and easier to do -

and i had no issues with that system till now - over 6 years - i cant complain - so when this happened - i was taken back -

i mean it was suppose to be a simple low cost unit - the short time i used it - it was much faster than my old - and now i hope the new system will be better yet - as long as it works -


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Expresso, I suggest you create a new thread rather than post in the 920 thread ..


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Expresso, I suggest you create a new thread rather than post in the 920 thread ..


sorry - your right - it went off track - i started with the cooler issue - my mistake -

i will start a new trend - asking for some suggestions -

thanks -


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Using Open Hardware Monitor (free program looks just like cpuid hwmonitor) and yes I edited the tags. My pump is plugged into one of my motherboard fan headers...
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pic of OpenHWMon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know why but all programs I've used have problems reading my 2nd gpu sometimes (AMD control center, AfterBurner, monitor programs etc...) and I'm not sure if that's normal or not. Sometimes it gets read sometimes not.


i tried also with openhwmonitor, detects only the cpu fan that I put directly on the cpu fan connector on mobo, and the pump connected to the chassis fan connector is not detected (only chill control V detect it )

I do not know what to think. maybe it's possible only with antec 620 and not with 920?

little curiosity.. in addition to viewing rpm, you can also control rpm of pump? (for example with speedfan, or gigabyte easy tune)


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> i tried also with openhwmonitor, detects only the cpu fan that I put directly on the cpu fan connector on mobo, and the pump connected to the chassis fan connector is not detected (only chill control V detect it )
> I do not know what to think. maybe it's possible only with antec 620 and not with 920?
> little curiosity.. in addition to viewing rpm, you can also control rpm of pump? (for example with speedfan, or gigabyte easy tune)


Probably depends which fan header you use. On my RIVE not all fan headers are detected.


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Probably depends which fan header you use. On my RIVE not all fan headers are detected.


maybe, but it seems little strange .. because my p8z77-i deluxe has only 2 fan connectors, cpu and chassis, always 4 pin .. I think both work the same way.

But I will try to reverse, and put the fan on the chassis connector and the pump on cpu connector..

anyway thnx, I will let you know if it works


----------



## expresso

i think i had the same issue - if i remember correctly now - i had both fans connected to the 920 and then plugged into the CPU Fan header on the board -

i remember seeing the speed for one Fan - i dont recall a speed for the pump - i wasnt looking for it - didnt think it would show that

but with other readings - i was not able to get a correct reading for Temps of Gpu- Cpu - etc, - i get different readings from different programs

i was using the 920 - FM2 gigabyte board and A10 -- all my other fans were running of a Fan controller - i was only looking for that one CPU fan on the programs anyway -

but the temps were off between programs - i am going with HWM - which showed very high temps -


----------



## expresso

does anyone know for sure if the 920 fit with the Gigabyte UD5H board - with no problems ?

when mounting the pins on the back plate for the intel - where would i put the pins for this board ? in the hole labeled 1366 ?

i want to make sure this time - i have it correct if i did it wrong first time - do i have to remove any stock back plate first with the intel like i did with the AMD board ?

it seems like i have to leave the stock CPU hold down in place and not remove that - place the cooler right over and screw it down -- just as i get it - ?

thanks -


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> Probably depends which fan header you use. On my RIVE not all fan headers are detected.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> I will try to reverse, and put the fan on the chassis connector and the pump on cpu connector..


I tried .. no change

but we are sure that it is possible to detect the rpm of the pump, with a sw that is not chill control V, even with the 920 .. and not only with the 620?

if we are not shure, any owner of the 920 can take a look?


----------



## par

sorry double post, i want up the thread for another question..

the pumps of these kits what kind of noise they make?

my antec h2o 920 make a continuous noise like coil whine.. I've done tests and I'm sure it's the pump of antec.. and the rest of the PC, without antec's pump, is a tomb

the pump's noise is not very strong or annoying .. during the day, if I do not mind, with the closed case is not heard.. but at night, even with the case closed, it became annoying..

but it is normal that makes this kind of noise? ... a 'bzzz' like coil whine.. no rattling or ticking..

thnx


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> sorry double post, i want up the thread for another question..
> the pumps of these kits what kind of noise they make?
> my antec h2o 920 make a continuous noise like coil whine.. I've done tests and I'm sure it's the pump of antec.. and the rest of the PC, without antec's pump, is a tomb
> the pump's noise is not very strong or annoying .. during the day, if I do not mind, with the closed case is not heard.. but at night, even with the case closed, it became annoying..
> but it is normal that makes this kind of noise? ... a 'bzzz' like coil whine.. no rattling or ticking..
> thnx


Check my video out on the AF140:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvlgIpP2f4g&list=UUAuaBtR8Qr-FRomAAhaD22w&index=9

Maybe it will give you a better idea of what noise it should give.
I have no problems personally with the noise.


----------



## rjbrunker

i just built a rig using the Kuhler 620 with a single fan but I've heard that I'd get better cooling if I add another fan. I went on Antec's website and they dont have the screws in stock. I was wondering if anybody knew where I can get some, or what size do I need, maybe I ca get them on Ebay or at HomeDepot.


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjbrunker*
> 
> i just built a rig using the Kuhler 620 with a single fan but I've heard that I'd get better cooling if I add another fan. I went on Antec's website and they dont have the screws in stock. I was wondering if anybody knew where I can get some, or what size do I need, maybe I ca get them on Ebay or at HomeDepot.


*6-32 for rads usually. that's 6 gauge, 32 threads per inch, not 6/32nds of an inch.* i think I've seen it posted that HomeDepot have them in the States? Not too long or you'll damage the rad cores. Check by measuring for the length you need.


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjbrunker*
> 
> i just built a rig using the Kuhler 620 with a single fan but I've heard that I'd get better cooling if I add another fan. I went on Antec's website and they dont have the screws in stock. I was wondering if anybody knew where I can get some, or what size do I need, maybe I ca get them on Ebay or at HomeDepot.


you could use 2 to hold the asn on one side and 2 on the other like i did a while ago. for fan thats against the case the other 2 spaces could use a fan screw to hold it better

may i ask you guys what the 620 pump is supposed to run at mine says 1400 but ive read 3000 or is that for the 920


----------



## stickg1

6/32 thread 1.25 inches for standard 25mm thick fan


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> 6/32 thread 1.25 inches for standard 25mm thick fan


You can get the wrong screws writing it like that. See three posts back.


----------



## stickg1

I saw it, that's what they're called! 6/32 thread 1.25 inches long. If he can't get it right God help him









Edit: he could just take one of the screws with him to any hardware store and get 4 more.


----------



## rjbrunker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alancsalt*
> 
> *6-32 for rads usually. that's 6 gauge, 32 threads per inch, not 6/32nds of an inch.* i think I've seen it posted that HomeDepot have them in the States? Not too long or you'll damage the rad cores. Check by measuring for the length you need.


I found some 2" long on Ebay because the ones that came with the unit barely were long enough to go through the fan and into the rad. So I think 2" will be perfect.


----------



## richie_2010

noooo. you will ruin the rad there 2 long


----------



## alancsalt

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I saw it, that's what they're called! 6/32 thread 1.25 inches long. If he can't get it right God help him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: he could just take one of the screws with him to any hardware store and get 4 more.


Sorry, but its 6 dash 32, not 6 slash 32. There is a difference. They are not 6/32.


----------



## expresso

anyone known for sure if the antec 920 would fit with no issues on a Gigabyte UD5H board ?


----------



## stickg1

6/32 wouldn't make sense for a measurement, if it were it would be 3/16 and those would be huge compared to what he needs. Either way take a screw with you to the hardware store

But you're right my syntax was wrong


----------



## spad007

Number 6 screws are just that, .#6-32 and one can buy # 6-32 nuts and #6 washers, also.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rjbrunker*
> 
> I found some 2" long on Ebay because the ones that came with the unit barely were long enough to go through the fan and into the rad. So I think 2" will be perfect.


2" is WAY too long. You will destroy the rad. I went to Lowes or Home Depot (don't remember which one) and got these for ~$2 or something.



Same size as the ones that came with the Antec.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 2" is WAY too long. You will destroy the rad. I went to Lowes or Home Depot (don't remember which one) and got these for ~$2 or something.
> 
> Same size as the ones that came with the Antec.


Yup, those are the ones.


----------



## chappell16

can I join I got the 920



cba to take my case side off









thanks dan


----------



## lurker2501




----------



## Totally Dubbed

^I presume that's on your GTX570?

How was the process?
920 or 620? Details...?


----------



## The Cisco Kid

Considering this cooler, any one know if it fits in an Antec Mini P180?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Cisco Kid*
> 
> Considering this cooler, any one know if it fits in an Antec Mini P180?


You'll need space for the RAD with a push pull config. (antec 920)
Check the dimensions online, and see if it will fit.


----------



## The Cisco Kid

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You'll need space for the RAD with a push pull config. (antec 920)
> Check the dimensions online, and see if it will fit.


Ok, thanks. I'll check out the dimensions.

I'm pretty sure it'll fit in the top forward HD bay, but am concerned about the back plate. I read another post about the Corsair H80 and some one had mentioned the possibility of the back-plate being an issue. I was sure if the same was true for the Antec.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Cisco Kid*
> 
> Ok, thanks. I'll check out the dimensions.
> I'm pretty sure it'll fit in the top forward HD bay, but am concerned about the back plate. I read another post about the Corsair H80 and some one had mentioned the possibility of the back-plate being an issue. I was sure if the same was true for the Antec.


ah well the backplate depends on your system - but it fits behind the motherboard....and is like 3mm thick...shouldn't be a problem surely...


----------



## lurker2501

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^I presume that's on your GTX570?
> How was the process?
> 920 or 620? Details...?


You can find all the info in this thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/0_20
This particular one is fried and RMAd by now. No thanks to mod though.


----------



## M3TAl

Makes me scared to go back to team green... I've had a 6800gt, 7900gt, and 8800gt all die on me and the 9600gt never worked in 3D from day one. My only amd card is these two 5770's (not a problem yet)... only time will tell though.

On the other hand a friend of mine has had multiple ATI/AMD cards die on him so who knows.


----------



## zGunBLADEz

Somebody is using CoolLab Liquid Ultra on the IHS and find problems on the coldplate/screws itself? Im using mine on 3770k die and ihs and so far is working great dont want to take it apart to investigate issues...

Im also not sure what kind of material are the screws used to hold the copper plate into the pump and Liquid Ultra have gallium on it XD....


----------



## diggiddi

Use prolimatech pk3. Hardware Secrets did a roundup on thermal paste and it beat out all the others including the coollab stuff


----------



## Wookieelover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *zGunBLADEz*
> 
> Somebody is using CoolLab Liquid Ultra on the IHS and find problems on the coldplate/screws itself? Im using mine on 3770k die and ihs and so far is working great dont want to take it apart to investigate issues...
> Im also not sure what kind of material are the screws used to hold the copper plate into the pump and Liquid Ultra have gallium on it XD....


I am using the Ultra on my modified Kuhler 620 loop.
I was using Noctua NT-H1 paste before swapping over to the CooLab Ultra and shaved 5c from my load temps.
If you paint the IHS surface as CooLab says in the instructions you have no issues with the coldplate screws as they dont even touch the IHS.




Very high ambient temp around 26c


----------



## Wookieelover

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Use prolimatech pk3. Hardware Secrets did a roundup on thermal paste and it beat out all the others including the coollab stuff


You have a link to that? cause all the roundups I have seen place the CooLab compounds 5-6c ahead of the next leading paste.

Edit. Found the link myself http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/1
I would honestly say that if they applied the CooLab Ultra the same way as all the other compounds that is why it tested so poorly.

My first application of it onto my Kuhler 620 coldpate was using the "small pea" method of applying thermal paste, which works with pretty much every thermal compound I have ever used.
When I turned the pc back on I was greeted with exactly the same and slightly worse results than the Noctua paste it replaced.
So I pulled it all apart again and found that the Ultra had not spread propeerly over the IHS, infact it was hardly spread over at all.

See for anyone who has not used or seen the CooLab Ultra out of the tube it has all the looks and properties of Mercury.
To get a proper application of the Ultra compound you need to "paint" your IHS with the supplied brushes that come with the Ultra syringe.


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wookieelover*
> 
> You have a link to that? cause all the roundups I have seen place the CooLab compounds 5-6c ahead of the next leading paste.
> Edit. Found the link myself http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/1
> I would honestly say that if they applied the CooLab Ultra the same way as all the other compounds that is why it tested so poorly.
> My first application of it onto my Kuhler 620 coldpate was using the "small pea" method of applying thermal paste, which works with pretty much every thermal compound I have ever used.
> When I turned the pc back on I was greeted with exactly the same and slightly worse results than the Noctua paste it replaced.
> So I pulled it all apart again and found that the Ultra had not spread propeerly over the IHS, infact it was hardly spread over at all.
> See for anyone who has not used or seen the CooLab Ultra out of the tube it has all the looks and properties of Mercury.
> To get a proper application of the Ultra compound you need to "paint" your IHS with the supplied brushes that come with the Ultra syringe.


I should think they know what they are doing, read these 2 articles

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/How-To-Correctly-Apply-Thermal-Grease/274

http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/What-is-the-Best-Way-to-Apply-Thermal-Compound/1303


----------



## Wookieelover

http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/0_100

Then I guess all these people should replace their TIMs with Prolimatech pk3


----------



## diggiddi

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wookieelover*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1313179/official-delidded-ivy-bridge-club/0_100
> Then I guess all these people should replace their TIMs with Prolimatech pk3


Haha... Maybe they should, I see someone has the PK-1 though


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Well you can add me to the list. Picked it up from best buy today along with a 74cfm blue led fan after BB price-matched amazon which was the cheapest I could find it for XD. Ended up getting the fan and 620 for less than BB wanted for just the cooler nothing like a half decent deal n_n

Will post pics of it installed along with comparison pics of stock cooler to this one.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Add me in, I have a Kuhler 920 on my 7970


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Ok first thing first

THAT was a ***** to install. It took me about two hours because it almost does not fit into my case. I don't really have a tiny case I have a Rosewill Challenger.

This is not my first time installing one of these AIO either. I've had a couple of H50's in the past.

At first it sounded like it was gurgling at me lol.

RIght now it is running really quiet which is such a huge improvement over the stock cooler.
Idle temps are giving me about the same as the stock cooler was (I don't know if the thing was a freak or what but check out the pic below to see what the stock was.


As you can see while at idle on stock cooler it was getting about 23c (It would regularly go as low as 18-19c for the cores) and at load I never saw the thing go above 46c. Like I said I'm not sure if that cooler was a freak of nature but it did its job incredibly well albeit a bit loud.

Now temps for the 620 are staying a bit higher cputin is showing at 30c while the cores themselves are showing lower at roughly 16c. I'm currently running a burn in test on it because I've switched TIM to AS ceramic which seems to be pretty decent.
Here is a semi close up of it installed. I will try to get a better one tomorrow.


Well really that is it for now. I will upload the shot of the min and max temps sometime this weekend after i get P95


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Nice one bro!


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaumig Shamane*
> 
> Ok first thing first
> THAT was a ***** to install. It took me about two hours because it almost does not fit into my case. I don't really have a tiny case I have a Rosewill Challenger.
> This is not my first time installing one of these AIO either. I've had a couple of H50's in the past.
> At first it sounded like it was gurgling at me lol.
> RIght now it is running really quiet which is such a huge improvement over the stock cooler.
> Idle temps are giving me about the same as the stock cooler was (I don't know if the thing was a freak or what but check out the pic below to see what the stock was.
> 
> 
> As you can see while at idle on stock cooler it was getting about 23c (It would regularly go as low as 18-19c for the cores) and at load I never saw the thing go above 46c. Like I said I'm not sure if that cooler was a freak of nature but it did its job incredibly well albeit a bit loud.
> Now temps for the 620 are staying a bit higher cputin is showing at 30c while the cores themselves are showing lower at roughly 16c. I'm currently running a burn in test on it because I've switched TIM to AS ceramic which seems to be pretty decent.
> Here is a semi close up of it installed. I will try to get a better one tomorrow.
> 
> Well really that is it for now. I will upload the shot of the min and max temps sometime this weekend after i get P95


i have a question - i am close to putting my new system together very soon - i have the antec 920 in the box waiting - now it seems very simple to install -- just line up the cooler and screw it down -

my concern is - the first 920 i installed - i believe it just hand tightened it down - i never used a screw driver to turn the screws since the screws are recessed and turn as i you turn the black part which you can hold -- it seemed very good - didnt move or didnt feel loose - but my temps were very high with that unit -

do you think it was because i didnt finish if off with a screw driver ? i will used one on my new one when i install it - is there any way to know when to stop or when its fully tight ?

i dont want to make the same mistake - this time its going on a i7 chip Dh5 Board - everyone seems to have no issues with there installation -

any good suggestions ?

thanks -


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^Nice one bro!


ty

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i have a question - i am close to putting my new system together very soon - i have the antec 920 in the box waiting - now it seems very simple to install -- just line up the cooler and screw it down -
> 
> my concern is - the first 920 i installed - i believe it just hand tightened it down - i never used a screw driver to turn the screws since the screws are recessed and turn as i you turn the black part which you can hold -- it seemed very good - didnt move or didnt feel loose - but my temps were very high with that unit -
> do you think it was because i didnt finish if off with a screw driver ? i will used one on my new one when i install it - is there any way to know when to stop or when its fully tight ?
> i dont want to make the same mistake - this time its going on a i7 chip Dh5 Board - everyone seems to have no issues with there installation -
> any good suggestions ?
> thanks -


Its not that it is difficult to install, It was more that adding the second fan caused to continually hit my 8-pin to mobo wire and the thing did not was to squish down very much at all. Also I have rather large hands and getting both hands (my hands are not a small as they used to be) is kind of a pita. A good 20 minutes of the install was me just sitting there lightly rubbing down the cpu to make absolutely sure the as5 was off of the processor completely. I could have probably taken out the mobo and made life easy but that is not my way XD.

As for tightening with just your hands it is very possible that it could have caused that. With every AIO I've installed I've always tightened as far as I can with my hands and then turned 1/4 turn to make sure and have always gotten decent temps with them.


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Alright so today after just over 30 minutes of running P95 here are the load temps. It never went above 40c which means with loads it has my stock cooler beat by 3-4o.



I would say that this thing is doing pretty good. We will really see once I can get my Vishera 8305 n_n


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaumig Shamane*
> 
> Alright so today after just over 30 minutes of running P95 here are the load temps. It never went above 40c which means with loads it has my stock cooler beat by 3-4o.
> 
> I would say that this thing is doing pretty good. We will really see once I can get my Vishera 8305 n_n


Give it 3hrs - your temps, I can almost assure you won't be the same.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaumig Shamane*
> 
> ty
> Its not that it is difficult to install, It was more that adding the second fan caused to continually hit my 8-pin to mobo wire and the thing did not was to squish down very much at all. Also I have rather large hands and getting both hands (my hands are not a small as they used to be) is kind of a pita. A good 20 minutes of the install was me just sitting there lightly rubbing down the cpu to make absolutely sure the as5 was off of the processor completely. I could have probably taken out the mobo and made life easy but that is not my way XD.
> As for tightening with just your hands it is very possible that it could have caused that. With every AIO I've installed I've always tightened as far as I can with my hands and then turned 1/4 turn to make sure and have always gotten decent temps with them.


I will use a screw driver at the end - to make sure hope it works this time - should be getting my board next week towards the end -


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Give it 3hrs - your temps, I can almost assure you won't be the same.


While this is true with the kinda usage I normally see about a hlaf hour to and hour of prime tells me the highest temps I will ever see. only other thing I run that causes 100% cpu usage is folding (need to re-install again but might start boinc), but even when I was running that 24/7 it never went above 44c on the stock cooler.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaumig Shamane*
> 
> While this is true with the kinda usage I normally see about a hlaf hour to and hour of prime tells me the highest temps I will ever see. only other thing I run that causes 100% cpu usage is folding (need to re-install again but might start boinc), but even when I was running that 24/7 it never went above 44c on the stock cooler.


Fair enough dude! For me, I would experience huge spikes in temps after 3hrs


----------



## M3TAl

How much of a spike are you taalking about? I normally only do 20-30mins also. I like to use my pc you know?

However I did run Intel Burn Test overnight two nights ago (40 runs All/Maximium memory). Core temps were ~50C after say 10 minutes or so but then I went to sleep. When I got up it was on pass 37 and finished all 40 after around 30more minutes with a max core temp of 55.3C.


----------



## stickg1

I agree with totally dubbed that several hours is best for finding total stability and max temps but I'm also on the "like to use my computer" bandwagon, where I find constantly stress testing for several hours to be annoying.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How much of a spike are you taalking about? I normally only do 20-30mins also. I like to use my pc you know?
> However I did run Intel Burn Test overnight two nights ago (40 runs All/Maximium memory). Core temps were ~50C after say 10 minutes or so but then I went to sleep. When I got up it was on pass 37 and finished all 40 after around 30more minutes with a max core temp of 55.3C.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I agree with totally dubbed that several hours is best for finding total stability and max temps but I'm also on the "like to use my computer" bandwagon, where I find constantly stress testing for several hours to be annoying.


Well for me there's a point of:
"I want to use my PC"

To:
"I want to make sure I don't fry or damage my PC"

As I play safe than sorry, I make sure everything is running fine, before going ahead and damaging anything.

As for spike...
Well let's just put it this way:
30c at idle
45c after a 1-2hr session of MP BF3
60c on P95 with my antec 920 after around 30mins
92c on P95 after 12hrs

Realistically you can see I'll never go that high in temps, but, just in case I do (which again will never happen) - I know that my cooler is properly done, and can cope with the TJ max.

I know 92c is VERY hot - but...I haven't managed to make it cooler.
i7 3770K running @ 4.5ghz


----------



## stickg1

Cut the lid off that bad boy and put some Cool Labs Liquid Pro on it!

And I see your point but I just don't do it that way. When I stress test I run IBT for an hour and it gets even hotter than Prime95 large FTT after several hours. I still do prime95 runs and sometimes I'll let it run all night but its really only after I've tweaked a bunch and want to be 100% sure my voltage is stable. Temps have not been an issue for me since I delidded.


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I agree with totally dubbed that several hours is best for finding total stability and max temps but I'm also on the "like to use my computer" bandwagon, where I find constantly stress testing for several hours to be annoying.


I will probably end up unlocking the 5th core and seeing what kinda temps I get with an overnight run of the P95. The only thing that worries me is that it would appear that the system will downclock to 800Mhz instead of keeping it at 2.9Ghz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Cut the lid off that bad boy and put some Cool Labs Liquid Pro on it!
> And I see your point but I just don't do it that way. When I stress test I run IBT for an hour and it gets even hotter than Prime95 large FTT after several hours. I still do prime95 runs and sometimes I'll let it run all night but its really only after I've tweaked a bunch and want to be 100% sure my voltage is stable. Temps have not been an issue for me since I delidded.


Oh yeah IBT on extreme really pushes it.
But I ran P95 for 12hrs -> for OC'ing stability rather than temps


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Oh yeah IBT on extreme really pushes it.
> But I ran P95 for 12hrs -> for OC'ing stability rather than temps


BTW I am LOVING these Corsair SP-120s, I credit you for turning me on to them. Good buy for sure, get them $20 for the pair and used the Newegg $20 gift card from my i5-3570K.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> BTW I am LOVING these Corsair SP-120s, I credit you for turning me on to them. Good buy for sure, get them $20 for the pair and used the Newegg $20 gift card from my i5-3570K.


No probs bro - yeah they are lovely indeed - the only thing that gets me is that they run constatly on 1.5k rpm on my antec 920 - I can't get them to down rpm to 600-700, when on idle -> any advice in that respect?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No probs bro - yeah they are lovely indeed - the only thing that gets me is that they run constatly on 1.5k rpm on my antec 920 - I can't get them to down rpm to 600-700, when on idle -> any advice in that respect?


Well I got the performance edition and the 35dBa they mention in the specs at full speed, well either all my other fan manufacturers are liars or the corsairs are much quieter than they give them credit for. I have a fan that is supposedly 18dBa and I hear it over my SP120s at full speed. So I run them at the full 2150-2200 RPM all the time.


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Give it 3hrs - your temps, I can almost assure you won't be the same.


Lol I decided to take you up on the thought and ran P95 for jsut over 3 hours with HW Monitor open the entire time.
Here is the screen as of a couple minutes ago.

As you can see the thing is still doing dang good with the temps even after 3 hours. One thing I would like to note is that it was not just P95 running. I was doing other things as well such as Installing games with steam and browsing around online.
Might leave an overnight run at some point to see where it gets. Though I want this CPU at 4Ghz but its being a PITA


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Well I got the performance edition and the 35dBa they mention in the specs at full speed, well either all my other fan manufacturers are liars or the corsairs are much quieter than they give them credit for. I have a fan that is supposedly 18dBa and I hear it over my SP120s at full speed. So I run them at the full 2150-2200 RPM all the time.


But, I can't limit my fan speed








Even with the speed limiter provided by Corsair...the fans stay stuck at 1500RPM - I want to downclock them somehow.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaumig Shamane*
> 
> Lol I decided to take you up on the thought and ran P95 for jsut over 3 hours with HW Monitor open the entire time.
> Here is the screen as of a couple minutes ago.
> As you can see the thing is still doing dang good with the temps even after 3 hours. One thing I would like to note is that it was not just P95 running. I was doing other things as well such as Installing games with steam and browsing around online.
> Might leave an overnight run at some point to see where it gets. Though I want this CPU at 4Ghz but its being a PITA


wow nice going bro!








Very good temps!


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> But, I can't limit my fan speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Even with the speed limiter provided by Corsair...the fans stay stuck at 1500RPM - I want to downclock them somehow.
> wow nice going bro!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Very good temps!


Lol thanks. also I've been meaning to ask you is that a nathon fillion ava you got there?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Flaumig Shamane*
> 
> Lol thanks. also I've been meaning to ask you is that a nathon fillion ava you got there?


hehe indeed - I didn't know who it was myself for a while:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1327859/who-is-in-my-avatar-no-seriously


----------



## Maximization

Well after figting the flu for weeks, and my old 8 year old computer would not transfer all files easily but i made it give it up. It finaly came together . Dream given form from August done at last.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nice build buddy!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As for spike...
> Well let's just put it this way:
> 30c at idle
> 45c after a 1-2hr session of MP BF3
> 60c on P95 with my antec 920 after around 30mins
> 92c on P95 after 12hrs
> Realistically you can see I'll never go that high in temps, but, just in case I do (which again will never happen) - I know that my cooler is properly done, and can cope with the TJ max.
> I know 92c is VERY hot - but...I haven't managed to make it cooler.
> i7 3770K running @ 4.5ghz


I've never experienced anything even remotely close to a spike like that. And I ran IBT for 13hours and 10 minutes. Is that not long enough to experience the spike?


----------



## jezzer

Fits in my new SCOUT II case. Just had to put all fans inside the case, in SCOUT I i was able to install 1 fan on the backside.

What does not and kinda has never worked for me is the software and fancontrol. Tried to connect it to every USB con available on the mobo but software does not work for me, says not connected.

Still with the low standard fan RPM and the stock fans i can keep my i5 @ 4.8ghz cool enough so its a really good cooler but i really wish it would just work


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've never experienced anything even remotely close to a spike like that. And I ran IBT for 13hours and 10 minutes. Is that not long enough to experience the spike?


could just be me amigo!








But your temps seem fine, and your OC seems OK








So don't worry about it - IBT for that long is more than enough!


----------



## M3TAl

Is it possible that your case airflow is inadequate? Too much heat keeps building up inside the case overtime? I'm sure if i turned the rpm's on these cougar fans down heat would build up like crazy in there and my temps would probably spike.

O and check it out, took some new pics of the inside of my case with this new ballistix memory etc...


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looking good man!
And no the air flow is good. I'm thinking thermal paste more than anything. I might open it up in a few weeks and apply some thermal paste. I just went for the default one, without applying any.
I got some arctic 5 laying around


----------



## bokchoi

my blue antec 920......


----------



## Maximization

is 43 degrees normal running at stock with the Kuhler 920 and a i7-3820? I am curious no warnings or anything, I just plan to AIda 64 soon. I assume i installed the Kuhler right.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> is 43 degrees normal running at stock with the Kuhler 920 and a i7-3820? I am curious no warnings or anything, I just plan to AIda 64 soon. I assume i installed the Kuhler right.


43C idle is quite high. How is your software setup ?


----------



## Maximization

custom setting

660 fan rpm

3000 pump rpm

I guess i should ask what is the correct temp at idle to form a baseline.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> custom setting
> 660 fan rpm
> 3000 pump rpm
> I guess i should ask what is the correct temp at idle to form a baseline.


There isn't a *correct* temp as each chip will run differently.

My 2600k idles at 28C-29C. Anything under 35ºC is fine. With a 43ºC idle, I would start to expect you either applied too much paste, or maybe the block isnt tightened down

What voltage does your 3820 use under idle/load?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> is 43 degrees normal running at stock with the Kuhler 920 and a i7-3820? I am curious no warnings or anything, I just plan to AIda 64 soon. I assume i installed the Kuhler right.


43c idle - is that your CPU temp and not liquid temp i hope?

Temp wise 43 is a little high, but depending on your room temps, that could be seen as "normal"
My idle temps are around 30c with a i7 3770k and 920.

I am running on 1,500 RPM though - constant (because of my SP120 fans on there instead of the antecs)

As for what fan speed you should do - that depend on your chip, as outlined above - you need to kind of "work it out" - the higher OC you go, the lower the gap between ramp and full speed has to be.
Basically, you have to monitor your temps, and work out a custom fan profile.

Here's my custom fan profile:


----------



## Maximization

Got it

Liquid temp is 42.00

Cpu temp is 38.00

I could not tell difference between the 2; i see now

Vcore is 1.408 that is cpu voltage right?

It is a 130 watt chip, i found out was 40-60c is normal operation range for a 2011 socket. The temp stays consistant running 72 hours doing major windows updates and just staying on.

I will check the block, I saw somwhere only torque about 5 ilbs the mounting screws, I did not use a torque screwdriver though. I did not want to stripp anything. Will work on good ratio for fan/temp , I have room to move on fan speed to make a better baseline.

thanks guys, every system is very unique.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Got it
> Vcore is 1.408 that is cpu voltage right?
> .


Indeed - no idea what the recommended is for your chip and/or OC - but my vcore is at 1.235


----------



## LocutusH

Anyone knows when the 620 V4 will be available to buy?


----------



## spad007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> Anyone knows when the 620 V4 will be available to buy?


is this it? http://uk.hardware.info/productinfo/171937/antec-kuhler-h2o-620-v4


----------



## Maximization

Stupid question, sorry i missed it if it was answered allready in the past 288 pages, but with the warrenty, is their a warrenty card or somehting that has to be sent in or is it implied witht the receipt? No warrenty card in box that i saw.


----------



## LocutusH

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spad007*
> 
> is this it? http://uk.hardware.info/productinfo/171937/antec-kuhler-h2o-620-v4


Yes, and no. That site is buggy, and the price links lead you to normal 620 links, not V4...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Stupid question, sorry i missed it if it was answered allready in the past 288 pages, but with the warrenty, is their a warrenty card or somehting that has to be sent in or is it implied witht the receipt? No warrenty card in box that i saw.


In the booklet maybe?
I can't remember getting a card of any sort.


----------



## Maximization

Looks like antec has low returns,
Receipt is all thats needed , from web site

II. Who Is Protected
This warranty is enforceable only by the original consumer purchaser. Proof of purchase is required for warranty service.

COOL...

Now..
I am waiting for some memory coolers. Supposedly it drops cpu temps about 4 degrees. Once i get and install, will get the 920 to full glory.


----------



## MrALLroy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bokchoi*
> 
> my blue antec 920......


Hi there fellow overclockers. I've just joined the forum after stumbling onto this thread and the FX-8230/8350 thread. I gotta say, theres lot's of good info on here and I hope I can contribute now and then.

So, I have a question for you Bokchoi. I notice you aren't useing the stock screws that came with your heatsink/pump. They look like stock AMD screws. Could you tell me how you've got that setup? I'd like to find a cheap and easy way to use the original metal backplate that can with my mobo.

TIA and again, a big HELLO to all of you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrALLroy*
> 
> Hi there fellow overclockers. I've just joined the forum after stumbling onto this thread and the FX-8230/8350 thread. I gotta say, theres lot's of good info on here and I hope I can contribute now and then.
> So, I have a question for you Bokchoi. I notice you aren't useing the stock screws that came with your heatsink/pump. They look like stock AMD screws. Could you tell me how you've got that setup? I'd like to find a cheap and easy way to use the original metal backplate that can with my mobo.
> TIA and again, a big HELLO to all of you.


Hey man!
Welcome to OCN









As for your question:
It is the AMD socket/plate, it should just fit on your motherboard, and more so those parts are included in the packaging - check out my installation guide (to see the package contents and process on an intel):
http://www.overclock.net/t/1330317/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-a-full-installation-guide


----------



## bokchoi

i used all the parts that were included in the antec packaging.....but my problem was with my fm2 board the screws they gave me were not long enough...the whole unit sat about 1/8" too high...i just went to my tool box and got some longer screws.. i used the plastic back plate that came with it.... overall i found the installation of this was quite difficult and took a long time to figure out..the instructions were super vague....but i got it all to work quite well..


----------



## Maximization

Strange thing happened. Chose updates SW/FW from taskbar Antec Control, and it started the process for updating. Then the bootloader failed. I actually got linked to to a file pdf file AN200 from Silicon labs when the failure occured. I guess I am a little confused, if the bootloader failed like that for the firmware was there no new firmwares? Or is there and I just did not do it right? I did manuelly download the updated control software fine from Antec website to 1.2 version and it is updated now but the firmware i do not know.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bokchoi*
> 
> i used all the parts that were included in the antec packaging.....but my problem was with my fm2 board the screws they gave me were not long enough...the whole unit sat about 1/8" too high...i just went to my tool box and got some longer screws.. i used the plastic back plate that came with it.... overall i found the installation of this was quite difficult and took a long time to figure out..the instructions were super vague....but i got it all to work quite well..


Agreed about the instructions and the fitting. That's why I created my guide, to help people


----------



## bokchoi

i just read your guide and it is quite good...i wish i had it when i was installing my 920..i went about the installation the same way but it took 4 beer and a couple of hours cause i didn't want to accidentally fry a new system...i had to make sure it was on there right (as close as i could figure).. i as well got the all black installation kit, no color coding on mine.. ok so a quick question/advice.. bf3 is the most demanding thing i put my rig through and under full load i get a liquid temp of 29-30c and with asus suite II it tells me my cpu temp is 37-38c....would you say a 10c difference is normal or maybe its not quite installed properly..i mean it feels pretty solid, its not twisted, nothing is broken... overall im not worried about 38c cpu temp..thats nothing...but is that kind of variation normal?? thanks.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *bokchoi*
> 
> i just read your guide and it is quite good...i wish i had it when i was installing my 920..i went about the installation the same way but it took 4 beer and a couple of hours cause i didn't want to accidentally fry a new system...i had to make sure it was on there right (as close as i could figure).. i as well got the all black installation kit, no color coding on mine.. ok so a quick question/advice.. bf3 is the most demanding thing i put my rig through and under full load i get a liquid temp of 29-30c and with asus suite II it tells me my cpu temp is 37-38c....would you say a 10c difference is normal or maybe its not quite installed properly..i mean it feels pretty solid, its not twisted, nothing is broken... overall im not worried about 38c cpu temp..thats nothing...but is that kind of variation normal?? thanks.


Glad you liked the guide









Yeah that's pretty normal.
My liquid temp can get to 40c, however my CPU temp will be up to 85c using p95 for several hours.
Liquid temp should usually stay under 45c in all instances.

Also AI Suite - I don't think is giving you CPU temps, but instead giving you MOTHERBOARD temps.
Get something like core temp or real temp -> those are your real CPU temps.


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Alright so pretty much got rid of one of the fans. I decided that I didn't like how much space it was taking up here is a shot of how it looks now




Sorry I don't have a second close up of it. But if you looks semi closely you can see that its taking up far less space and actually fits better. XD. rather happy with it but will end up getting some gentle typhoons and installing at least once there.

Actually quick question will the Software that is with the 920 work with the 620? something I've been wondering


----------



## dmanstasiu

Just wondering ... what's the big pink glowing box under your computer?


----------



## Maximization

I love the Kulher, It is an amazing device.



"Just wondering ... what's the big pink glowing box under your computer?"

looks like an ice sculpture.


----------



## Flaumig Shamane

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Just wondering ... what's the big pink glowing box under your computer?


Lol its actually red. Unfortunately my phone is making it look pink. Its a stand/storage box I just recent built you can see a better pic Here


----------



## LocutusH

Finally i rebuilt my rig using GT AP15-s, and a Touch 2100 controller.
Those fans are amazing.
I run them at fixed 1100 RPM P/P, and idle 30°C, load 46°C. (23°C room temp)
No more need to raise the rpm for load, like with the CM Sickleflows...


----------



## odirex

Digging though this thread and can't seem to find a pretty basic answer: how are people connecting pwm 4-pin fans into the kuhler 620? Are they using 4-pin to 3-pin adapters keep the fans controlled by the pump or just putting direct power leads to each and running them all at max rpm?

I've got 620s on my cpu and my gpu, looking to upgrade the fans. Leaning toward cougar vortex because they're $10 each right now and supposedly vaguely comparable to the $20+ noctuas.


----------



## stickg1

plug the pump into a fan header and make sure to set it at 100% all the time in BIOS. Then connect the other fans to other fan headers. You don't have to use the male 3 pin header that comes off of the pump, you only have to use the female 3 pin coming off the pump because that powers the pump.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odirex*
> 
> Digging though this thread and can't seem to find a pretty basic answer: how are people connecting pwm 4-pin fans into the kuhler 620? Are they using 4-pin to 3-pin adapters keep the fans controlled by the pump or just putting direct power leads to each and running them all at max rpm?
> I've got 620s on my cpu and my gpu, looking to upgrade the fans. Leaning toward cougar vortex because they're $10 each right now and supposedly vaguely comparable to the $20+ noctuas.


that's coincidental - I'm stuck on this issue myself:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1344892/fan-controller-question-ramping-down-antec-920-corsair-sp120-fans

From my understanding - you can't convert non-PWM fans into PWM ones, thus my SP120's and AF140's will never properly adjust, on the fly to the changes in the CPU temps.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odirex*
> 
> Digging though this thread and can't seem to find a pretty basic answer: how are people connecting pwm 4-pin fans into the kuhler 620? Are they using 4-pin to 3-pin adapters keep the fans controlled by the pump or just putting direct power leads to each and running them all at max rpm?
> I've got 620s on my cpu and my gpu, looking to upgrade the fans. Leaning toward cougar vortex because they're $10 each right now and supposedly vaguely comparable to the $20+ noctuas.


I'm using 8 pwm cougar's but they're connected to a fan controller. However if you really want to use the connector from the 620 you could snip off the sides (will void warranty though) of the connector. I did this with all my molex to 3 pin adapters when using the cougars. You would be better off with a 3pin to 2x 4pin adapter though or jsut use the motherboard fan headers.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that's coincidental - I'm stuck on this issue myself:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1344892/fan-controller-question-ramping-down-antec-920-corsair-sp120-fans
> From my understanding - you can't convert non-PWM fans into PWM ones, thus my SP120's and AF140's will never properly adjust, on the fly to the changes in the CPU temps.


TD - you can't just plug them into fan headers on your motherboard?


----------



## odirex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> plug the pump into a fan header and make sure to set it at 100% all the time in BIOS. Then connect the other fans to other fan headers. You don't have to use the male 3 pin header that comes off of the pump, you only have to use the female 3 pin coming off the pump because that powers the pump.


I was under the impression that the pump would regulate fan speed the voltage way (non pwm) based on some internal logic having to do with internal liquid temps. That's why I was trying to find some way to use that plug for the push/pull fans. Is that not the case? If not and it just spins them at 100% regardless then using the mobo leads would have the same result.

My exact situation: My mobo has 2x pwm leads (1 is cpu) and 2x 3-pin leads. It can control all the fans via Asus Fan Xpert. I'm trying to connect 2 fans each (push/pull) on both 620s, + a 92mm fan over my gfx card ram/vrm, + 2 case fans (1x 140mm, 1x 120mm). That's 7 fans total. I was looking to not spend more than $10 on each fan and the best I found in that price range were all pwm models. Anyone have a similar setup and some idea how they should be daisy-chained?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> TD - you can't just plug them into fan headers on your motherboard?


I'll check soon as I plan to open the PC - however the fans are not 4 pin, they are 3 pin ones - meaning they are not PWM compatible, and thus meaning they don't downclock to 600-800RPM and constantly run at 1500RPM.


----------



## M3TAl

Try a PWM Y cable? That way you can connect two fans to the single header on the motherboard (you said there are two PWM headers on your board right? so you could control 4 PWM fans).

By the way those cougar fans use 0.31A or 3.72watts. The typical mobo header is 1A or 12watts. So two cougars running off a single mobo header should be fine.


----------



## odirex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Try a PWM Y cable? That way you can connect two fans to the single header on the motherboard (you said there are two PWM headers on your board right? so you could control 4 PWM fans).


I completely forgot my radeon 7970 has a 4pin fan header for itself, that brings me up to 6 pwm fans. Can Y cables be used in series? (Use 2 to feed 3 fans from the same lead?)

Is it worth looking into a cheap fan controller instead at this point since 4 pwm splitters would already be costing me $20+. (and I would think a fan controller would eliminate the need for splitters) Or are fan controllers only good for non-pwm fans?


----------



## M3TAl

I believe you can use 2 cables like that, assuming the fan header won't be overloaded by 3 fans. Fan controller vs Y cables is up to you really. A cheap fan controller would probably be a sunbeam tech or whatever they're called.

How many of these cables do you need to buy? There are some inexpensive ones out there.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'll check soon as I plan to open the PC - however the fans are not 4 pin, they are 3 pin ones - meaning they are not PWM compatible, and thus meaning they don't downclock to 600-800RPM and constantly run at 1500RPM.


I have an ASUS P8Z77-V Pro motherboard and I can control 3pin fans on any of my fan headers. I'm sure you could too. It can be done in BIOS or with ASUS Fan Xpert2. A buddy of mine sent me one of those NZXT Sentry2 fan controllers and it controls fans with either 3pin or molex, so I free'd up a bunch of my fan headers with that now. I'll test the SP120's again but I think I just leave them on full speed anyway because they aren't too loud for me. I'll double check.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odirex*
> 
> I completely forgot my radeon 7970 has a 4pin fan header for itself, that brings me up to 6 pwm fans. Can Y cables be used in series? (Use 2 to feed 3 fans from the same lead?)
> Is it worth looking into a cheap fan controller instead at this point since 4 pwm splitters would already be costing me $20+. (and I would think a fan controller would eliminate the need for splitters) Or are fan controllers only good for non-pwm fans?


There are many PWM fan controllers but they are a bit more expensive


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I have an ASUS P8Z77-V Pro motherboard and I can control 3pin fans on any of my fan headers. I'm sure you could too. It can be done in BIOS or with ASUS Fan Xpert2. A buddy of mine sent me one of those NZXT Sentry2 fan controllers and it controls fans with either 3pin or molex, so I free'd up a bunch of my fan headers with that now. I'll test the SP120's again but I think I just leave them on full speed anyway because they aren't too loud for me. I'll double check.


that's the thing - they can be controlled, but only to a certain degree - more so the SP120's I have are on my antec's RAD. So, doesn't the fans have to be linked with the CPU, and not the motherboard?

When I render or P95, the AF140's ramp up in speed.
However the Sp120's, on the antec 920 always remain at 1500RPM.


----------



## stickg1

Hmm, I was gonna unplug my SP120's and try them in a different header to see if I can control it but I bundled up the cables and tucked them back behind the rad real neat and tidy and don't really feel like messing with it today. I'll look further into it this weekend. My kids are running around going nuts, time for the Daddy Police to lay down the law, and cook dinner.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

OK some testing with the fans:
-I stuck the AF140 case fan in the CPU fan = result was it running like crazy
-I stuck the SP120's in the Case fan header on my motherboard, and they wouldn't adjust to change - more so antec couldn't pick them up (obviously)

So now I'm back on the same configuration I had before. Still being puzzled if it is possible to ramp DOWN the SP120's when not being used.
I looked at the pin configurations of the antec 920 CPU fan MALE sockets and found that one was [i.ii] where only two ii would be used, and the other was [iiii] thus 3 out of the 4 being used.

Any indication on any of those?
And more so, if I got a PCW adapter, would it work?


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *odirex*
> 
> Digging though this thread and can't seem to find a pretty basic answer: how are people connecting pwm 4-pin fans into the kuhler 620? Are they using 4-pin to 3-pin adapters keep the fans controlled by the pump or just putting direct power leads to each and running them all at max rpm?
> I've got 620s on my cpu and my gpu, looking to upgrade the fans. Leaning toward cougar vortex because they're $10 each right now and supposedly vaguely comparable to the $20+ noctuas.


That 4th wire is control and I do not think it could be used in the Antec

4.1.6 Fan Connector Pinout and Wiring Colors
Table 1 Connector Pinout
Pin Function Wire Color
1 GND Black
2 12 V Yellow
3 Sense Green
4 Control Blue

http://www.formfactors.org/developer%5Cspecs%5CREV1_2_Public.pdf

I dare say snip it, but don't blame me if it blows up, all the other pin outs match it should still work.


----------



## expresso

Hi - i finally got my new Antec 920 installed last night - Can anyone tell me if my temps are good - since i had to return my first 920 - wasnt cooling good enough - pump issue -

My liquid temps which the Chill software shows at idle in silent mode - with Cougar HP fans - 34C - depending on my room - how hot it is etc, - early in the morning - it shows up at about 31C

as days goes by etc, - goes up to about 34C -

i am using a 3770k on a UD5H Board - my case is Corsair 300R - i have two top fans - pulling air out - two front pushing air in - and one side window fan pushing air in -

Are these good temps for stock at idle and just normal browsing etc, - - i have not stress tested it yet etc, - so dont know on load -

i just want to make sure these are more or less the Avg. - the pump is working at 3000 - i want to make sure this is normal

thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yup that's ok. Idle temps being higher than mine, but that depends on room temp too.


----------



## expresso

ok - when i first start it up - its at 31C this is the Chill software - then goes slowly to 34C where it stays - my room is warm - i cant sit in my shorts easily in the winter - we get alot of heat here -

i just wanted to make sure its nothing to worry about or anything wrong with unit etc, -


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> ok - when i first start it up - its at 31C this is the Chill software - then goes slowly to 34C where it stays - my room is warm - i cant sit in my shorts easily in the winter - we get alot of heat here -
> i just wanted to make sure its nothing to worry about or anything wrong with unit etc, -


nop looks ok.


----------



## expresso

really - i was worried something was wrong - so if i get these temps at 4.4 with everything else auto -

how can i get to 4.5 or 4.7 wont it be too high temps and shut it down - ? i though i had to keep it at 90C max during load

i was thinking of changing the fans to Corsair HP fans - high static pressure model ?

do you think that would help ? i notice the static pressure on the corsair fans are 3.1 - - CFM is 62

my cougar fans say 119 CFM - static pressure i think is 2.2

should i change them and see if any difference ?


----------



## expresso

just realized that the Corsair fans are not 4 pin -

does that mean i cant control them with the Chill software if plugged into CPU header ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> really - i was worried something was wrong - so if i get these temps at 4.4 with everything else auto -
> how can i get to 4.5 or 4.7 wont it be too high temps and shut it down - ? i though i had to keep it at 90C max during load
> i was thinking of changing the fans to Corsair HP fans - high static pressure model ?
> do you think that would help ? i notice the static pressure on the corsair fans are 3.1 - - CFM is 62
> my cougar fans say 119 CFM - static pressure i think is 2.2
> should i change them and see if any difference ?


There might be a little difference yes, but under p95 those temps are normal man.
I wouldn't worry about it


----------



## NFleck

Interested in joining. I'm using the 620 with the included fan on the outer side of the rad, and a 4-pin molex fan pushing from the inside.


_*Note*: Click for enlarged view._

Temps using this configuration keep me below 55C at full load, even when pushing my vcore and clock speed as far as I can.. and usually as low as 28-30C at idle.. Simply amazing for a closed-loop cpu cooler IMO.. And I picked it up for $35 at my local Canada Computers...









Can't seem to add myself to the Member list, so hopefully someone is still actively adding members?
The link below the member list in the OP ...
Quote:


> Google Spreadsheet]


... brings me to a list of people with Intel chipsets, and seems to have nothing to do with the Antec Kuhler Members doc..









Thanks in advance for letting me join my first OCN club, and I'm proud it's for such a "cool" cooler.


----------



## expresso

i was using Intelburn to stress test - i didnt use p95 - would that make a difference ?

if i wanted to try the Corsair fans SP models - they are 3 pin - how would that work - would i still be able to control it with the chill software or they would just run at full speed all the time ?

also my new 920 the pump speed is now at 3000 sometimes 3040 - and sometimes drops to 2960 etc, and back up to 3000 mostly

i just used it two days so far

is this normal


----------



## [CyGnus]

Bought me one of these Antec 620 and switched the fan with a Noiseblocker Blacksilent Pro PLPS 1.83 Static Pressure cool temps and no noise at all







3570K @ 4.7GHz 1.28v
Prime95 1h 72c max


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i was using Intelburn to stress test - i didnt use p95 - would that make a difference ?
> if i wanted to try the Corsair fans SP models - they are 3 pin - how would that work - would i still be able to control it with the chill software or they would just run at full speed all the time ?
> also my new 920 the pump speed is now at 3000 sometimes 3040 - and sometimes drops to 2960 etc, and back up to 3000 mostly
> i just used it two days so far
> is this normal


well yes and no - I can't fully contorl my SP120's.
As for test - IBT outputs higher temps than usual so - that's fine.

As for pump speed, yes that's normal








I would focus on your rig and ensuring everything works - I think your temps and setup is fine amigo!


----------



## expresso

thats a relief to hear - but i am still concerned - since if i am only doing 4.4 - and getting those temps -

how would i be able to get to 4.5 or 4.7 and stay under 100C -

i will try prime 95 tomorrow and check the temps

about the fans - what do you mean yes and no - if i get them and put them on the cooler - plug them in the CPU header

can i use the chill software to control them or do they just run full speed

if they do run full speed only - how bad is that - how loud ? it says 34db - but dont know what that would sound like


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> thats a relief to hear - but i am still concerned - since if i am only doing 4.4 - and getting those temps -
> how would i be able to get to 4.5 or 4.7 and stay under 100C -
> i will try prime 95 tomorrow and check the temps
> about the fans - what do you mean yes and no - if i get them and put them on the cooler - plug them in the CPU header
> can i use the chill software to control them or do they just run full speed
> if they do run full speed only - how bad is that - how loud ? it says 34db - but dont know what that would sound like


Well why are you trying to go so high in OC?
With IVY - temps go up really high, and if you don't have appropriate cooling you won't manage to do so.

I can't realistically go over 4.7.
So I'm at 4.5 ghz.

Long story short: Keep your fans.


----------



## expresso

Can the program Speed Fan - control the fans if they did run at full speed ?

maybe have a option which is great -


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Can the program Speed Fan - control the fans if they did run at full speed ?
> maybe have a option which is great -


Don't know haven't tried.

To other owners:
Am I right in assuming most of you don't have the DB indicator for your Antec's?


----------



## expresso

i just remembered

i have a Y connector for the fans - 4 pin model - but i can use that to connect both the corsair fans and then plug in Motherboard ?

leave the antec wire in the CPU header -

does that sound like it would work ?


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> To other owners:
> Am I right in assuming most of you don't have the DB indicator for your Antec's?


I got mine still even after Antec updates, but no more numbers just the funky bar graph


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> thats a relief to hear - but i am still concerned - since if i am only doing 4.4 - and getting those temps -
> how would i be able to get to 4.5 or 4.7 and stay under 100C -
> i will try prime 95 tomorrow and check the temps
> about the fans - what do you mean yes and no - if i get them and put them on the cooler - plug them in the CPU header
> can i use the chill software to control them or do they just run full speed
> if they do run full speed only - how bad is that - how loud ? it says 34db - but dont know what that would sound like


Thats a high target

I have an i7-3820, With 64 GB of ram, I got stable at 4.3 and all ram running 1600 mhz. vcore is at 1.4. 36 c cpu and 40 liquid temp. 100c you need subzero stuff.


----------



## expresso

Really - i didnt know - i though 4.5 would come easy -

and i dont have my db reading for the sound on my antec cooler - just the graph - and cooling temp


----------



## M3TAl

Changing your fans isn't going to make a large difference, small at best. Also the Cougar fans are 70.5 CFM and 2.2 mm H2O.

What's most important is that you have good case with good airflow, how you set your radiator (intake/exhaust), and good thermal paste application.


----------



## expresso

my fans say 119 CFM Vortex HP model - but really i dont feel much air being pushed out the back from the fan pulling behind the Rad - so that means the front would feel just the same -

i have the Corsair 300R case - two 140mm fans on top pulling out - 2 x 140mm in front pushing in - 1 x 120 Vortex Hp fan - same as the cooler on the side window pushing in -

that should be good enough - my room is a bit on the warmer side - they give god heat in my apt. -

would you know if i can control the fans with speed fan softeware if i used the Corsair fans which are 3 pin ?

i read that someone changed out the stock fans from antec and put in the corsair fans which gave him 8c lower in temps - thats a nice drop in temps - i think he had the H100 Corsair

i cant say if thats true or not - i figure a simple fan change isnt a big deal - i used the stock paste which came with it - and really not looking to touch that block - i finally got it on good - tight and been out of a computer for a while - feels good to have it back

my liquid temps show 30C when i boot - settles at 34C after short time - during the load IBT test - it went up to 100C at times on 2 cores -

thats why i am worried - if i only get 4.4 with stock auto settings - and those temps - i need to lower them a bit if i want to go to 4.5 etc, -

any suggestions --

thanks -


----------



## M3TAl

These cougar fans are 70.5 CFM and 119.8 m3/h (whatever kind of measurement that is, no other fan manufacturer uses this metric). I think speedfan only works with PWM fans when connected to your board's PWM header.

An 8c drop from different fans seems exaggerated with these AIO's. With a 920 you _might_ see 3-4C drop with something really good like the GT AP-15's

At this point your only options for reduced temps is trying to lower your vcore as much as possible, lower your ambient as much as possible, or doing something more drastic like lapping your cpu and block (which is also usually only like a 3-5c drop).


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> These cougar fans are 70.5 CFM and 119.8 m3/h (whatever kind of measurement that is, no other fan manufacturer uses this metric). I think speedfan only works with PWM fans when connected to your board's PWM header.
> An 8c drop from different fans seems exaggerated with these AIO's. With a 920 you _might_ see 3-4C drop with something really good like the GT AP-15's
> At this point your only options for reduced temps is trying to lower your vcore as much as possible, lower your ambient as much as possible, or doing something more drastic like lapping your cpu and block (which is also usually only like a 3-5c drop).


m3/h = cubic meteres per hour
cfm = cubic feet per hour


----------



## expresso

oh ok i see - i got tricked with the high CFM of 119 - at least thats what i though -

i think i will try the Corsair SP120 - and play around to lower the Vcore - if i can - be stable -

i see the SP120 has higher static pressure rating which is from what i read important for the Rad cooler -

only downside is the 3 pin - do they sell a 3 pin to 4 pwm pin which i can add to the corsair fans and then connect to the cooler - ? i did a search but getting confused so many show up

i would think i need a 3 pin male to 4 pin female ?

i also have a Y cable two 4 pin to one 4 pin - i wonder if i can connect both my fans on the Y cable and then connect the Y cable to one of the cooler fan connections instead of both of them -

if i connect it to the 4 pin one on the cooler and leave the other one empty - then connect it to the CPU header - you think that would work to control the fan on the chill software ?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> oh ok i see - i got tricked with the high CFM of 119 - at least thats what i though -
> i think i will try the Corsair SP120 - and play around to lower the Vcore - if i can - be stable -
> i see the SP120 has higher static pressure rating which is from what i read important for the Rad cooler -
> only downside is the 3 pin - do they sell a 3 pin to 4 pwm pin which i can add to the corsair fans and then connect to the cooler - ? i did a search but getting confused so many show up
> i would think i need a 3 pin male to 4 pin female ?
> i also have a Y cable two 4 pin to one 4 pin - i wonder if i can connect both my fans on the Y cable and then connect the Y cable to one of the cooler fan connections instead of both of them -
> if i connect it to the 4 pin one on the cooler and leave the other one empty - then connect it to the CPU header - you think that would work to control the fan on the chill software ?


A 3-pin to 4-pin cable will do nothing. Rather, invest in a fan controller


----------



## dmanstasiu

Double post but YOLO

Hey I just figured I'd drop a post here letting you guys know that xyexz has a Kuhler 620 for sale on [H] for $20


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> A 3-pin to 4-pin cable will do nothing. Rather, invest in a fan controller


That was my dilemma too...and I think I might be forced to go for a fan controller


----------



## Maximization

With the fan controller , does that sorta make the Chiller software useless?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> With the fan controller , does that sorta make the Chiller software useless?


yup


----------



## Koniakki

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> I got mine still even after Antec updates, but no more numbers just the funky bar graph


Same here.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Don't know haven't tried.
> To other owners:
> Am I right in assuming most of you don't have the DB indicator for your Antec's?


It was gone for a while, didn't bother with it. And if I remember correctly after the last updade of ChillControl it came back again.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Koniakki*
> 
> Same here.
> It was gone for a while, didn't bother with it. And if I remember correctly after the last updade of ChillControl it came back again.


I get an error when it tried to look for updates!

+rep for the screenshot and help though!


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I get an error when it tried to look for updates!
> +rep for the screenshot and help though!


On software or firmware?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> On software or firmware?


"Update SW/FW" when i right click on the antec logo in the tray.

I also tried re-installing the software, but that did nothing.

I did update and have to update it, when I first got my 920.
I'll never forget the fans going to extreme for like 20mins haha
Was like hearing an F18 in my house!


----------



## Maximization

Haha they go into default vacuum cleaner mode, after my boot loader failure I downloaded directly from antec site. I am going to try the sw mode again tonight see what happens. I think they do not have a newer firmware yet.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I get an error when it tried to look for updates!
> +rep for the screenshot and help though!


those are nice temps - what kind of fan do you have on that unit ?

i know everyone changes out the stock fans - but is it because they dont cool good enough or just too loud ? if too loud which every says so - cant it be controlled with the chill software -
keeping it low noise for everyday use - then full blast when pushing it ?

i am leaning on the corsair sp120 fans - and i have a idea which may or may not work -

if i use the 3 pin fans - and connect the fans to a Y cable which is PWM 4 pins - both fans to the Y cable - then the Y cable going to the Antec fan cable - but just one of the fan cables would be used - the 4 pin one - and then connect the antec cable to the CPU on board

do you think that would work the fans from the chill software ?

last option i guess is the Fan controller - which i happen to have - and have one channel free - i have all my fans on the fan controller -

if i did use the fan controller for both the fans with the Y cable - the chill software wont controller the fans - but would i still see the liquid temps on the Chill software ? just no fan activity ?


----------



## Maximization

Is the need to stay with 3 wire fans for sound levels. Why not just stick to 4 wire fan replacements?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Is the need to stay with 3 wire fans for sound levels. Why not just stick to 4 wire fan replacements?


Yeah you could buy a new fan with a 4 pin configuration.
But I quite like my corsair AF140 and Sp120's
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> those are nice temps - what kind of fan do you have on that unit ?
> i know everyone changes out the stock fans - but is it because they dont cool good enough or just too loud ? if too loud which every says so - cant it be controlled with the chill software -
> keeping it low noise for everyday use - then full blast when pushing it ?
> i am leaning on the corsair sp120 fans - and i have a idea which may or may not work -
> if i use the 3 pin fans - and connect the fans to a Y cable which is PWM 4 pins - both fans to the Y cable - then the Y cable going to the Antec fan cable - but just one of the fan cables would be used - the 4 pin one - and then connect the antec cable to the CPU on board
> do you think that would work the fans from the chill software ?
> last option i guess is the Fan controller - which i happen to have - and have one channel free - i have all my fans on the fan controller -
> if i did use the fan controller for both the fans with the Y cable - the chill software wont controller the fans - but would i still see the liquid temps on the Chill software ? just no fan activity ?


I changed fans because I wanted a lower noise.
My Sp120 quiets (@1500RPM) provide the same amount of cooling and better static pressure than the antec fans on 2500RPM, but are 10x more quieter.
As for Y split - don't know, but the antec cooler comes with a y split already, so you would just plug it into there.
As fore working - as they are 3 pin ones, they won't work fully - and will remain stuck at 1500RPM.

I was looking into fan controllers myself, but as I have a 3 pin fan configuration, all that will allow me to do is change the fan speed MANUALLY, but it won't do it on the fly (thus automatically)


----------



## expresso

i dont mind going with the 4 pin fans - just so happens the SP 120 are 3 pin - and i hear good things about that fan -

the Y cable on the antec has two fan connections - one is 3 pin and one is 4 pin -

what i was thinking was if i end up with the SP120 3 pin fans - then i would connect my Y cable to the SP120 fans and the Y cable end to the Antec Y cable on the 4 pin -

would leave the other 3 pin connector from the Antec empty and - then plug it in the CPU header

just wondering if that would work -

or else - Can you Recommend me any High Static Fans for cooling the Red 4 pin ?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah you could buy a new fan with a 4 pin configuration.
> But I quite like my corsair AF140 and Sp120's
> I changed fans because I wanted a lower noise.
> My Sp120 quiets (@1500RPM) provide the same amount of cooling and better static pressure than the antec fans on 2500RPM, but are 10x more quieter.
> As for Y split - don't know, but the antec cooler comes with a y split already, so you would just plug it into there.
> As fore working - as they are 3 pin ones, they won't work fully - and will remain stuck at 1500RPM.
> I was looking into fan controllers myself, but as I have a 3 pin fan configuration, all that will allow me to do is change the fan speed MANUALLY, but it won't do it on the fly (thus automatically)


if the SP fans remain stuck at 1500 Rpm - does it still cool better than stock fans - how much better in terms of temps ?

how many degrees lower did you get ? 3C or 5C etc,


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> if the SP fans remain stuck at 1500 Rpm - does it still cool better than stock fans - how much better in terms of temps ?
> how many degrees lower did you get ? 3C or 5C etc,


temps are IDENTICAL but the sound levels are greatly reduced.

Stock fans at 600-800rpm (idle) are quieter
Anything above that, the sp's are quiter @1.5k rpm


----------



## expresso

i just found these fans - the specs look very good - and its PWM

http://www.coolermaster.com/product.php?product_id=6684

look at the static pressure on this one - very nice - and its 4 pin

now the only thing i see strange is - just this model in RED show those specs

if you click on the Blue or Black etc, - the specs are lower in the static pressure - but same model ?

i though that was strange - i would get the RED to be safe - this may be the better Fan plus you can control it also -

take a look - what do you guys think ?


----------



## Maximization

I sell fans for industrial applications, rule of thumb is ball bearing last longer but is a little noisier, sleeve bearing is quiter but wears out sooner if mounted verticle. The new hybrids are fluid and stuff. This might be a ball bearing that runs silent. I have never heard bad stuff about coolermaster fans. I don't know if they subcontract their fans or make in house though.


----------



## expresso

Would you know if i use Two of the Cooler master fans on my Antec 920

they are 4 pin fans -

would the board be ok with the power draw and amps of two of these fans ?

Amps = 0.45 - Max = 0.7

Power = 5.4 watts - Max = 8.4

thats for each fan - i would use two fans connected to the antec wires and in the CPU header

i am looking over the manual and cant fine any details or specs about how much wattage and amps the header can handle

thanks


----------



## Maximization

PWM 4 pin fan is standerdized if they are 4 pins they will work. I kept the stocks on so i really don't want to comment. You are right I can't even find a model number on the Antecs.


----------



## expresso

i think i am going with the coolermaster - they have very good specs - highest pressure rating i seen so far unless moving up to HIGH Speed Delta fans etc,

i also found Cooljag fan everflow model - they have a few - have to look at specs to get high pressure model - good price - but out of stock and cant find them online any where else

coolermaster is neck and neck with the specs - and has a LED - - i found them on ebay - just a few dollars over the Cooljag - so its good

will replace my cooler fans and my side window fan with these - should make a big improvement i think

i am running prime now since 9am at 4.5 - seems very stable - and temps are not bad either with my cougar - in the 70C range most of the time - can hit 80C and a bit more at times -

its much cooler in my room today also - compared to later at night -

i will post back with temps after

cooler shows liquid temp at 41C when loaded and warmer in my room - now its at 38C - not sure how long i will run prime before i stop and try for 4.7 -


----------



## Maximization

I have no hands on with z77 chip sets, 4.5 is respectable. I have gone all over the map with my overclocks, 4.9 with all voltage warning alerts going off too 4.3 i am at now. I think somehting is holding me back with a setting, 4.6 is my real target. I am trying to keep all safety settings on except the c reporting and run memory at stock while doing it. I really don;t want to disable virtulization, cores and stuff. Want full capabilities at the fastest stable.


----------



## M3TAl

I would recommend GT AP-15's (hands down the #1 low noise fan for radiators ) or the Swiftech Helix (basically GT AP-15 knockoffs).


----------



## expresso

i think that is what is holding you back - i just got 4.5 stable with prime 7 hours - and 4.7 stable with IBT at very high stress

doing IBT at Max for now - maybe run prime tomorrow to be sure - but maybe not - if it passes the max now

here are some shots


----------



## hiredhelp

Just like to say my old cool-it vantage had to be changed my GF xmas bought me the antec 920:thumb: .
Gota tell you HUGE improovement was pain to fit at first but i got there.
My temps on idle are around 25-30c with i7 2600k 2.7ghz.

The thing i decided to do was change the front fan with a 120 red led ernermax fan witch was quieter and faster (push pull).

Thx antec for great product goes nicely in my Cooler Master HAF X


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiredhelp*
> 
> Just like to say my old cool-it vantage had to be changed my GF xmas bought me the antec 920:thumb: .
> Gota tell you HUGE improovement was pain to fit at first but i got there.
> My temps on idle are around 25-30c with i7 2600k 2.7ghz.
> The thing i decided to do was change the front fan with a 120 red led ernermax fan witch was quieter and faster (push pull).
> Thx antec for great product goes nicely in my Cooler Master HAF X


What did you have beforehand?


----------



## [CyGnus]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I would recommend GT AP-15's (hands down the #1 low noise fan for radiators ) or the Swiftech Helix (basically GT AP-15 knockoffs).


I dont see how 28/29dba fans are low noise you have the cougar vortex fans, noiseblockers blacksilent pro with very good static pressure (1.90) and less dba around 23/24


----------



## M3TAl

The noise to performance ratio is pretty much unbeatable. Many people find them to be very quiet also but I've never used them.


----------



## hiredhelp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What did you have beforehand?


The bios stated was around 40c ish sometimes bit more.
asfor noise well my loudest fan is my 7970 radeon ill still try put some pics up later with temps cheers guys:thumb:


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> *The noise to performance ratio is pretty much unbeatable*. Many people find them to be very quiet also but I've never used them.


^^
Pretty much it right there.
Plenty of fans run with less noise, and also less performance.









I have 2 GT AP30's with the PWM mod and they are the quietest fans in my case.


----------



## crappy

thought you guys might like the mod i did with might 620, looping in a small res and the NB on my Striker II Extreme.


Sadly the striker died and i've upgraded to a 3570k and m5g (oh the shame!), with my kuhler now closed up again, but sporting a pair of Xigmatek CLF-F1254's in push-pull.


----------



## Maximization

thats actually amazing, you removed the rad and looped in stuff. The pump worked fine in those conditions?


----------



## hiredhelp

So yeh as promised these are the temps i got from my cooler i have not long played on a game come off and did a test.
Im soo glad i went for this cooler.


----------



## ruarcs30

Hi.

I have a problem witch I hope someone can help me out whit. I used to have an athlon am3 socket but have recently switched to an q9550. Are someone willing to sell the mouting stuff I need for my socket, backplate,screws? If someone has a 620 witch only are going to use it on amd then the extra lie unused,hehe. I have thrown my own away it seems
















Im living in Norway by the way

Cheers


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> Hi.
> I have a problem witch I hope someone can help me out whit. I used to have an athlon am3 socket but have recently switched to an q9550. Are someone willing to sell the mouting stuff I need for my socket, backplate,screws? If someone has a 620 witch only are going to use it on amd then the extra lie unused,hehe. I have thrown my own away it seems
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Im living in Norway by the way
> Cheers


Wow - I might be tempted to sell it to you - you are referring to the metal and backplates of the first image in my guide right?
http://www.overclock.net/t/1330317/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-a-full-installation-guide

As I got those, and not using the AMD ones, nor see myself ever using them (as I got my i7 in and can't see that changing any time soon)


----------



## ruarcs30

So how mutch do it cost to ship to norway? And how mutch do you want for it? I have the thing witch holds the pump onto the cpu, the metal one, the rest I lack. Backplate, screws etc


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> So how mutch do it cost to ship to norway? And how mutch do you want for it? I have the thing witch holds the pump onto the cpu, the metal one, the rest I lack. Backplate, screws etc


ah I don't think I got the screws for you.
Have you tried contacting antec?


----------



## crappy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> thats actually amazing, you removed the rad and looped in stuff. The pump worked fine in those conditions?


yeh it worked fine. i had to leave small peices of the original tubing on the barbs of the block and rad and fit 3/8"ID over the top of that. I initially had the inlet/outlet of the block on top and the inlet/outlet of the rad at the bottom, which looked better from a looks point of view, but i occassionally got air bubles stuck in the block like that for some reason.


I got a slow leak on one of the nb barbs so redid it all with some PFTE tape on the barbs and was fine after that. I did i write up of it over on the bit-tech forums if you want to take a look how i did it:http://forums.bit-tech.net/showthread.php?t=229934

in it's current format, i overclocked my i5 to 4.2 with max temp of 67C. I'm running it at stock unless benching as it's fast enough as it is. after a few hours of bf3 the temps are about 55-58C, and that's with the fans at about 80% (1300rpm approx) They're deadly quiet these xigmateks too.


----------



## ruarcs30

I have allways liked people from Canada. And now an canadian lad offeres to send me the parts for free







Not bad


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ruarcs30*
> 
> I have allways liked people from Canada. And now an canadian lad offeres to send me the parts for free
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not bad


Glad you got that sorted!


----------



## Weshhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hiredhelp*
> 
> So yeh as promised these are the temps i got from my cooler i have not long played on a game come off and did a test.
> Im soo glad i went for this cooler.


Which fans are you using on the 920? Because im looking to replace my stock fans and these are beautiful.
And are they more silent than the stock ones?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weshhh*
> 
> Which fans are you using on the 920? Because im looking to replace my stock fans and these are beautiful.
> And are they more silent than the stock ones?


If you are looking into fans - look for 4pin ones.
I'm still having problems figuring out how to control my 3pin SP120's.


----------



## Maximization

Noctura seems to be getting the best reviews but the highest price


----------



## Weshhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If you are looking into fans - look for 4pin ones.
> I'm still having problems figuring out how to control my 3pin SP120's.


I know, but its kind a hard to find good 4 pin led fans

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Noctura seems to be getting the best reviews but the highest price


Noctua is really good but i need blue led fans


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I would appreciate someone helping me out with ramping down SP120 3pin fans...on the antec920:

http://www.overclock.net/t/1344892/fan-controller-question-ramping-down-antec-920-corsair-sp120-fans/10#post_18988821


----------



## hiredhelp

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weshhh*
> 
> Which fans are you using on the 920? Because im looking to replace my stock fans and these are beautiful.
> And are they more silent than the stock ones?


Hi yeh sure the rear fan i kept as stock antec fan but the front was a ernimax Appolish red led fan.
This also came with its own wire that had a temp sensor so it self adjusted fan according to temps of system.

Spec

Dimensions (mm): W 120 x H 120 x D 25
Color: Red
Bearing Type: patented Twister Bearing Technology
LED type (patented): Circular LED light with 12 diodes
Speed (RMP): 900 (+/- 10%)
Air Flow (m3/h): 63.78
Air Flow (CFM): 37.54
Static Pressure (mm-H2O): 1.088
Noise (dB(A)): 17
Input Power (W): 2.4
Input Current (A): 0.2
Rated Voltage (V): 12
MTBF: 100.000 hours
Accessory: 4 screws, 3P to 4P adaptor


----------



## expresso

What other 4 pin PWM fans work with the antec 920 software and give off good pressure as the SP120

i didnt realize the SP120 are 3 pin - so i canceled order

i want a 4 pin PWM fan that can cool better than stock fans - something i can control with the Chill software -

high pressure rating - equal to the 120 which are i think 3.1

any suggestions ??


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> What other 4 pin PWM fans work with the antec 920 software and give off good pressure as the SP120
> i didnt realize the SP120 are 3 pin - so i canceled order
> i want a 4 pin PWM fan that can cool better than stock fans - something i can control with the Chill software -
> high pressure rating - equal to the 120 which are i think 3.1
> any suggestions ??


I've figured out a solution to the Sp120 problem (with the help of a friend)

Was simpler than I thought -> you don't need any 4pin fans, as long as your motherboard supports Q-fan you're OK.
I plugged my 2 SP120's into the fan headers on my motherboard, and set the limits on the bios.
That's all I needed to do.

I've currently got, on order two 3pin to 2x 3pin adapters (y splitters) so that i can put all my fans on my motherboard, and control them all from the bios.

The only disadvantage is that the antec software is no longer used to monitor my fans.



And by BIOS settings I mean like this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1344892/solved-fan-controller-question-ramping-down-antec-920-corsair-sp120-fans/10#post_18988821


----------



## expresso

i was trying to avoid that and use the chill software - - since both fans would work at the same speed - with the Chill software - connected together

on the board headers - its fine - may not run at both same speed same time - should be close enough i would think -

just have to have the CPU header connected - i was told by Gigabyte today that if you dont - it wont boot - if thats true - i dont know for sure

i also just read - that the antec pump wont work full speed if not connected - not sure if they mean with the fans or not - i cant confirm this -

i am looking for anything i with high speed i can control - even delta fans - as long as i can keep both fans under 1 amp load - i take it - with high pressure- i just control it with the chill software

i never tried the original fans which came with the unit -

how bad are they ? i mean are they just loud or do they not cool enough ? does anyone know the pressure rating of the stock fans from the 920 and how many amps it pulls ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i was trying to avoid that and use the chill software - - since both fans would work at the same speed - with the Chill software - connected together
> on the board headers - its fine - may not run at both same speed same time - should be close enough i would think -
> just have to have the CPU header connected - i was told by Gigabyte today that if you dont - it wont boot - if thats true - i dont know for sure
> i also just read - that the antec pump wont work full speed if not connected - not sure if they mean with the fans or not - i cant confirm this -
> i am looking for anything i with high speed i can control - even delta fans - as long as i can keep both fans under 1 amp load - i take it - with high pressure- i just control it with the chill software
> i never tried the original fans which came with the unit -
> how bad are they ? i mean are they just loud or do they not cool enough ? does anyone know the pressure rating of the stock fans from the 920 and how many amps it pulls ?


Quite a lot of ideas, and random things you say lol.

CPU fan header connected up to the antec -> pump
Chassis fans connected to the fans -> fan speed (monitored in bios)

As for temp readings -> the antec TAKES it from the bios, and then controls it.
Here you're by-passing the antec software and monitoring.

As for the same speeds -> did you check the screenshot?
Almost identical if not the same.
If anything, and you are worried, get a Y splitter -> then for sure they will run at the same speed









Up to you - but I'm just saying that the SP120's now work for me, and my PC is dead silent as it used to be with the antecs with no load.


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quite a lot of ideas, and random things you say lol.
> CPU fan header connected up to the antec -> pump
> Chassis fans connected to the fans -> fan speed (monitored in bios)
> *As for temp readings -> the antec TAKES it from the bios, and then controls it.*
> Here you're by-passing the antec software and monitoring.
> As for the same speeds -> did you check the screenshot?
> Almost identical if not the same.
> If anything, and you are worried, get a Y splitter -> then for sure they will run at the same speed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Up to you - but I'm just saying that the SP120's now work for me, and my PC is dead silent as it used to be with the antecs with no load.


Just to clarify, the temperature reported in the Chill control software is the temperature of the LIQUID in the system, it is not taken from the bios or some such, but from the pump itself. Also the Chillcontrol settings are stored in the pump, so you don't need to run the software all the time.
It's that very reason that I use PWM fans for my 920. Changing fan speeds according to water temperature gives a much smoother fan profile.
As for fans, I use two GT AP 30's which would easily fry the Antec pump if hooked directly to it. So I have the power leads of the fans hooked to molex connectors and just hook the PWM wire to the pump to control the fan speeds.
Using molex connectors allows usage of all those awesome high powered fans out there and you still get your pwm control.


----------



## expresso

i think i found a decent fan - with PWM and stays under the 1 amp limit with two fans on one header -

its a plain black fan - and not sleeved wire -

http://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Blade-Computer-R4-BMBS-20PK-R0/dp/B0030DL37I/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=3U5RBQ2LAUELL&coliid=IFCEX31BGZM5G

i am a bit confused -

if you dont plug any fans in the antec 920 wires and just plug it in the CPU header - what does that do or dosnt do ?

i have a Y splitter for PWM fans - - All my fan headers can handle up to 1 amp each - since i am trying to use the existing Antec setup with the wires etc, - i need to make sure both fans combined dont exceed 1 amp - once thats done - then i want to check air pressure etc, - i dont mind if high speed or noise - because i can easily control the speed with the Chill software -

i notice the Chill shows the liquid temps - CPU temps cant be lower than the liquid temps - correct me if i am wrong - i am trying to lower my liquid temps - which will lower my CPU temps - during load at least - by doing this - i am sure the fans will be running high and make more noise - i am ok with that since i wont be fulling them at full - only when i prime test it - will have a better shot at getting a higher OC with low temps during prime

once i get it stable etc, - i run them lower - for normal use - so the noise would be much better and still keep temps lower - i am sure a little higher than on full speed but should be fine

thats my goal -


----------



## plywood99

I have that very fan, it's decent but by no means amazing. The stock 920 fans will push more air than that coolermaster, though with more noise.


----------



## expresso

really ? whow i just ordered it -

i dont get it then - the static pressure is high on that fan - much higher than the fans i am using right now - they give off 2.2

this fan gives off 3.9 - which i am sure is at full speed

that means the stock fans are the best choice after all ?

does anyone know the specs on the stock fan ?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I have that very fan, it's decent but by no means amazing. The stock 920 fans will push more air than that coolermaster, though with more noise.


push more air - but better static pressure also ?

why is everyone changing them out to begin with then ? is it just the noise or they dont perform ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Just to clarify, the temperature reported in the Chill control software is the temperature of the LIQUID in the system, it is not taken from the bios or some such, but from the pump itself. Also the Chillcontrol settings are stored in the pump, so you don't need to run the software all the time.
> It's that very reason that I use PWM fans for my 920. Changing fan speeds according to water temperature gives a much smoother fan profile.
> As for fans, I use two GT AP 30's which would easily fry the Antec pump if hooked directly to it. So I have the power leads of the fans hooked to molex connectors and just hook the PWM wire to the pump to control the fan speeds.
> Using molex connectors allows usage of all those awesome high powered fans out there and you still get your pwm control.


hehe nice man!

And yeah I know liquid temp is in the 920 not the CPU temps








But the liquid temps will determine your ramp fan speeds and thus your cpu temps







!
(that's if you have a 4 pin pwm connected directly into the antec)


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> push more air - but better static pressure also ?
> 
> why is everyone changing them out to begin with then ? is it just the noise or they dont perform ?


The stock fans perform VERY well, they push tons of air and have good static pressure. But
They're noisy








On low speeds it's not bad but when you crank them up its hairdryer like.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> The stock fans perform VERY well, they push tons of air and have good static pressure. But
> They're noisy
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On low speeds it's not bad but when you crank them up its hairdryer like.


thanks - this is driving me crazy - all this time - i have the stock fans which do a great job and i never used them because everyone is changing them -

i knew its loud - but since you can control it - shouldnt be bad - and then you have the power if you need it on full for prime testing

maybe i should just give those a shot first

So you think the stock fans are better than the Cooler master i just posted a link to ?


----------



## expresso

does anyone know the static pressure of the stock fans - speed etc,

that info would help alot in trying to match those specs with other fans - theres no info on them anywhere


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> does anyone know the static pressure of the stock fans - speed etc,
> 
> that info would help alot in trying to match those specs with other fans - theres no info on them anywhere


http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c365s936
Thats the fan Antec uses for the 920. It's a beast honestly but it's noisy as hell.









On a side note, if you're putting the fans on the stock 920 rad, it really is hard to beat the fans Antec supplies. They do an amazing job pushing air through the tight fin spacing on the 920 rad. The Coolermaster fan you listed earlier can't hold a candle to the stock fans.

If you're wanting to mod the 920, check my posts. I've done extensive modding to it and know the unit inside and out.

To be honest, the 920 pump / block unit is one of the best bargains out there. You get a great compact pump and water block, a dedicated fan controller where fans are controlled manually or by water temperature, a water temperature monitor and some funky LED fun to top it off.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/5879/fan-294/Cooljag_Everflow_120mm_x_25mm_9-Blade_PWM_Fan_R121225BU.html?tl=g36c365s936
> Thats the fan Antec uses for the 920. It's a beast honestly but it's noisy as hell.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> On a side note, if you're putting the fans on the stock 920 rad, it really is hard to beat the fans Antec supplies. They do an amazing job pushing air through the tight fin spacing on the 920 rad. The Coolermaster fan you listed earlier can't hold a candle to the stock fans.
> 
> If you're wanting to mod the 920, check my posts. I've done extensive modding to it and know the unit inside and out.
> 
> To be honest, the 920 pump / block unit is one of the best bargains out there. You get a great compact pump and water block, a dedicated fan controller where fans are controlled manually or by water temperature, a water temperature monitor and some funky LED fun to top it off.


ok finally i got a answer - this is what i wanted to know so i can decide - and funny thing is i was trying to get a cooljag - i checked Jabtech - out of stock - great specs also -

ok i am done - i will use the stock fans and move on already - try to get 4.7 stable









thanks for posting the link - now i know the specs


----------



## expresso

http://www.jab-tech.com/Cooljag-Everflow-120x120x25-PWM-Fan-R121225BU-AF-pr-3847.html

i was looking at this first - since it was out of stock - i couldnt find - so actually the stock fans i have sitting there is excatly what i was looking for and will work better then my fans now with 2.2 pressure and 70 cfm i think - but they are quiet -

i just need more cooling fan - my room is very warm - i can compare now when i put them on to the liquid temps i get now -

about 34C to 36C idle since its warm here - dosnt go above 41C during load

i am trying to lower those numbers and lower my CPU temps this way


----------



## expresso

http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2945&product_name=Blade%20Master%20120mm%20%28R4-BMBS-20PK-R0%29

now between this one and the cooljag - they both are about the same - coojab more air - coolermaster more pressure - not by much

so if static pressure is whats needed - i figured the coolermaster would perform better

but anyway - i am keeping the stock and putting them on next week

i see for myself how i can control it - if i drop my temps 5C - i be happy


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> http://www.coolermaster-usa.com/product.php?product_id=2945&product_name=Blade%20Master%20120mm%20%28R4-BMBS-20PK-R0%29
> 
> now between this one and the cooljag - they both are about the same - coojab more air - coolermaster more pressure - not by much
> 
> so if static pressure is whats needed - i figured the coolermaster would perform better
> 
> but anyway - i am keeping the stock and putting them on next week
> 
> i see for myself how i can control it - if i drop my temps 5C - i be happy


Like I said before, I have both of those fans. The Coolermaster may "list" higher static pressure but the proof is in the pudding as they say.
And I can say 100% the stock fans will push more air through the 920 rad than those CM's will, easily.


----------



## expresso

cool - i had them all the time -

i guess its always worth a shot with the stock fans before moving on - it may not please all but may be just want i need


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Stock fans do really good on temps, especially on f18 jet mode lol.
But for noise they aren't great. I wanted a silent yet powerful system. I now got that with the corsair fans.
Might even get rid of the fractal fans I have just for the heck of having full out corsair cooling.


----------



## kevindd992002

Is the pump noise for the 620 normal? How do you bleed it?


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Is the pump noise for the 620 normal? How do you bleed it?


Kevin, tilt your case around a bit. Should be easy to bleed the air out of the pump.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Kevin, tilt your case around a bit. Should be easy to bleed the air out of the pump.


You mean tilt the whole rig? Towards what side?

When bleeding, the loop should already be in position?

If everything goes well, what kind of sound should I hear from the pump? I'm not sure if there is still air in the pump because it already made the gurgling sound (more audible sound) earlier but I can still hear the water flow inside the pump if I put my ear next to it.

Oh btw, I'm using an accelero hybrid cooler for my gpu and the clc system is exactly the same as the 620, AFAIK.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Stock fans do really good on temps, especially on f18 jet mode lol.
> But for noise they aren't great. I wanted a silent yet powerful system. I now got that with the corsair fans.
> Might even get rid of the fractal fans I have just for the heck of having full out corsair cooling.


Your right - i am sure it will be loud - but i have to try them out - my room is very warm - so i need to see if i can make it a little better


----------



## plywood99

Sounds like you're good to go.
Don't expect perfect silence from the unit.
But you should not hear it outside of your case unless you're batman.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Sounds like you're good to go.
> Don't expect perfect silence from the unit.
> But you should not hear it outside of your case unless you're batman.


So in essence, there isn't anything wrong with my pump?


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> So in essence, there isn't anything wrong with my pump?


Nopers.









Your pump is fine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Nopers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Your pump is fine.


But I'm batman....


----------



## Weshhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> But I'm batman....


No you're Cat woman!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weshhh*
> 
> No you're Cat woman!


If only I could fit in that tight leather-skin dress i bought! Damn it!
I'll have to settle for batman.

I do have to say anne hathaway is hotttttttttt in that "costume"


----------



## Weshhh

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If only I could fit in that tight leather-skin dress i bought! Damn it!
> I'll have to settle for batman.
> 
> I do have to say anne hathaway is hotttttttttt in that "costume"


I totally agree with the last thing, but you are still not batman maybe robin


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weshhh*
> 
> I totally agree with the last thing, but you are still not batman maybe robin


My life is destroyed








I always thought I was batman....haha

Ok back on topic


----------



## Maximization

Its funny I was looking for fan reviews and stumbled across this lassy. She would look good in a catwomen outfit. I would leave my wife and kids and fly to England be her garbage man i think.

http://www.youtube.com/user/TastyPCTV


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Its funny I was looking for fan reviews and stumbled across this lassy. She would look good in a catwomen outfit. I would leave my wife and kids and fly to England be her garbage man i think.
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/user/TastyPCTV


Yup I've seen her reviews.
I can't concentrate.

She knows her stuff though


----------



## Maximization

she has nice fan assemblies!!!!!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> she has nice fan assemblies!!!!!!


I would like an extensive comparison of her keyboards, I quite like pressing her buttons.


----------



## anliveyak

hey i just reinstalled my kuhler 620 on my 3570k and ASRock extreme4. the first time i did it, i stripped one of the backplate hole things(which align and hold the retention nuts into place). this go around i ended up stripping the plastic on all of them. i didnt feel like it was getting very tight, even with needle nose pliars to keep the nuts from spinning. does anyone have any suggestions on how to fix this or where i could get a new backplate(preferably not plastic). im not getting the same temps i was before, even tho i switched from AS ceramic to AS 5, and the ceramic didnt even have time to set up.
In the mean time im going to re-apply the thermal paste and see what happens. i think i smeared alot of it off trying to wrestle the water block on. thanks in advance for any suggestions


----------



## Maximization

I would email Antec, I don't think anyone else uses those type of hardware.


----------



## spad007

I replaced the Antec backing plate with the ASRock one. Yes back to stock backing plate .
i have 4 #6-32 screws that reach thru from back to front about 1 inch so they are inch and a quarter long
3+mm long about
thence i spun a #6-32 nut down each one as a jam nut- tight but not so tight as to strip them.
i have 4 #6-32 brass finger nuts that fit.. extras left over from my RepRap Prusa project.
much nicer than wing nuts .
so i used them to mount the pump/heatsink thingy on my mother board.
tight but not too tight .
i guess we are lucky that British Standard Whitworth (BSW) is not what ASRock used.


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spad007*
> 
> I replaced the Antec backing plate with the ASRock one. Yes back to stock backing plate .
> i have 4 #6-32 screws that reach thru from back to front about 1 inch so they are inch and a quarter long
> 3+mm long about
> thence i spun a #6-32 nut down each one as a jam nut- tight but not so tight as to strip them.
> i have 4 #6-32 brass finger nuts that fit.. extras left over from my RepRap Prusa project.
> much nicer than wing nuts .
> so i used them to mount the pump/heatsink thingy on my mother board.
> tight but not too tight .
> i guess we are lucky that British Standard Whitworth (BSW) is not what ASRock used.


I did basically the same thing. I trashed the stock Antec backplate, (it's total garbage anyway), and used the stock backplate that came with my mobo. Just put some 6/32 screws into it and used wingnuts to hold down the pump. Works like a champ.
Much better clamping pressure too.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm not a fan of the antec backplate I must say.


----------



## anliveyak

thanks for the suggestion guys, i see what you mean, and that would be an effective solution for an AMD mobo. I'm currently running an Intel setup tho (no backplate to be had except the one i got from antec). So im wondering if anyone knows where i might find a LGA 1155 generic backplate or preferably something that is actually compatable with the antec kuhler.
thanks again


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anliveyak*
> 
> thanks for the suggestion guys, i see what you mean, and that would be an effective solution for an AMD mobo. I'm currently running an Intel setup tho (no backplate to be had except the one i got from antec). So im wondering if anyone knows where i might find a LGA 1155 generic backplate or preferably something that is actually compatable with the antec kuhler.
> thanks again


Well the intel backplate isn't bad - as you'll be able to see form my guide - but I wish it was little more sturdy.
As for your question - I would also like to know


----------



## Maximization

i did not need the antec backplate, the antec fastening screws worked fine in the rampage iv x socket. I heard the anteck backplate is fine but just don't use the adheasive strips.

http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hebaso11.html
genercis are around


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> i did not need the antec backplate, the antec fastening screws worked fine in the rampage iv x socket. I heard the anteck backplate is fine but just don't use the adheasive strips.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hebaso11.html
> genercis are around


oh that's interesting!
Makes me tempted to buy it - except in the UK.

Anyone have pics or proof that this backplate works?


----------



## Maximization

There has to be stock in England somewhere


----------



## kevindd992002

What's wrong with the Antec backplate?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> There has to be stock in England somewhere


Couldn't find it on ebay nor amazon.
Nor anything similar (that would fit at the back of a motherboard for a cooler)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> What's wrong with the Antec backplate?


It just doesn't feel secure enough for my liking.
When I used to attach "normal coolers" they used to be SUPER tight fitted.

This one was still fitted really tight, but the backplate couldn't cope with metal nuts turning inside it (how dirty does that sound is beyond me lol)

I would thus prefer a metal backplate.
I feel my temps aren't that great in comparison to others I've seen here.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Couldn't find it on ebay nor amazon.
> Nor anything similar (that would fit at the back of a motherboard for a cooler)
> It just doesn't feel secure enough for my liking.
> When I used to attach "normal coolers" they used to be SUPER tight fitted.
> 
> This one was still fitted really tight, but the backplate couldn't cope with metal nuts turning inside it (how dirty does that sound is beyond me lol)
> 
> I would thus prefer a metal backplate.
> I feel my temps aren't that great in comparison to others I've seen here.


i agree - not crazy about it either - not sure how much tigther it could be - it felt tight enough and i cant screw them anymore -

i did use the antec sticky tape on the back plate as recommended - what would it do if i didnt use them ? would it be a better fit - ?

i know its a pain if you have to remove them - i had to do it once to change the board - and took some time to get it off - its like cement

i guess you can always use your own double sided tape - not as thick - just to keep it from touching the board - i would think thats why its even there -

i cant wait to see my temps with the stock fans









i am looking to get around 25C idle - at least around there - that woud be a good 10C lower than what i get now -


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i agree - not crazy about it either - not sure how much tigther it could be - it felt tight enough and i cant screw them anymore -
> 
> i did use the antec sticky tape on the back plate as recommended - what would it do if i didnt use them ? would it be a better fit - ?
> 
> i know its a pain if you have to remove them - i had to do it once to change the board - and took some time to get it off - its like cement
> 
> i guess you can always use your own double sided tape - not as thick - just to keep it from touching the board - i would think thats why its even there -
> 
> i cant wait to see my temps with the stock fans
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i am looking to get around 25C idle - at least around there - that woud be a good 10C lower than what i get now -


haha nice!

And yeah it should stick solidly to the board, but that tightening...just gets me.
Old motherboards - they physically CLICKED to tell you - YES I AM NOW secure man


----------



## Maximization

Arctic silver surface purafier might help one degree. The bottles last years

http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Arctic silver surface purafier might help one degree. The bottles last years
> 
> http://www.arcticsilver.com/arcticlean.htm


I was going to buy it...but then thought not to.
Screw it I placed an order:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=TH-000-AC&tool=3

Good to have it anyway


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would thus prefer a metal backplate.
> I feel my temps aren't that great in comparison to others I've seen here.


I can confirm your suspicions. Using the stock Antec back plate will cause your motherboard to warp over time.
This means after a while the pump is not held down with as much pressure.
Why any company would use a flimsy plastic back plate is beyond me.


----------



## anliveyak

well i decided since best buy in town sells the same cooler, im just going to buy one and return mine which i suspect has air inside, problem solved and no RMA process to deal with







thanks for the help tho


----------



## spad007

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anliveyak*
> 
> well i decided since best buy in town sells the same cooler, im just going to buy one and return mine which i suspect has air inside, problem solved and no RMA process to deal with
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for the help tho


yes i suspect they all have air inside to allow for expansion of the juice.


----------



## Napophis

I reformatted my HDD and can't seem to find the software DL on the antec site at all, had no luck googling it either, anyone know where i can get it?


----------



## Maximization

use the orginal disk first


----------



## plywood99

Here yah go:

http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER%20H2O%20920%20Drivers_v1.2.rar


----------



## Napophis

thx! that really helped, now i don't have to see that alert in the system menu


----------



## Roder J

Thanks Plywood99! needed that myself!, just finished going through a 920 off a friends rig that got quite noisy and had all kinds of issues after he blew his rig out. put him back to stock cooler and am going to put this 920 on my oldest sons rig and see how it does..


----------



## tiger_yap8

hi.. 620 user here.. I'm planning to change the 120mm fan.. any advice? something that's a "PERFORMANCE" fan, that would probably give the best fan cooling for the radiator..


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha nice!
> 
> And yeah it should stick solidly to the board, but that tightening...just gets me.
> Old motherboards - they physically CLICKED to tell you - YES I AM NOW secure man


i agree - you used to get more feedback from the older stuff - now its a guessing game - did it work - is it tight - ? etc, etc, and no one knows haha

update on my fans -

it did not lower my Liquid Temps by as much as i was looking for - my expectations were a little bit too high - but it did lower them a few C's - i am idle at about 34C now -

fans on custom setting so its quiet at the same time - i really dont know what the fuss was about the stock fans - they are fine - they are quiet when browsing etc, and you have the headroom and full power when you stress it - if you ever get it to go full blast on normal use -

all this time- trying to figure out what fan to buy - etc, etc, - when the stock fans are very good -

all well - from now on - i will always try out the stock fans before deciding to change them out

i have a question - would you or anyone else know - on the antec 920 - how cool can those liquid temps get ? first - can the unit work correctly if i dont plug any fans in it and just plug the cable to the CPU header - ?

would that run the pump at least the way it should be ? then i can put two high speed fans on my fan controller - to cool it - i understand the chill software wont control the fans this way -

i am curious if the pump would be affected and if the system would boot up knowing just the cooler cable plugged in the CPU header but no fans on that header ?

purpose to thinking of trying this would be - i can then run two delta high speed fans on the Rad - connected to the Fan controller - those have a extreme high pressure rating - and would be curious to see how much lower the liquid temps can get -

which would lower my CPU temps and load temps -

do you think this would work ? or would you know the limit to how much this cooler can cool reguardless if i add the delts fans or not ?


----------



## crappy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> lots of stuff


presuming the 920 runs the same as the 620; yes you can just plug the pump into the cpu header and connect the fans seperately to a fan controller. I've got 2 fans on my 620 in push-pull, both of which are plugged directly into mobo fan headers so i can run a custom fan profile.

I agree that the stock fan does do a good job at keeping the temps down, i used just a single stock fan on my 620 on a few 775 chips with reasonable overclocks and had no issues with temps, although a little noisy at full speed when gaming. having said that, i moved to a pair of Xigmatek CLF-1254's and they are deadly silent.


----------



## Maximization

i have a question - would you or anyone else know - on the antec 920 - how cool can those liquid temps get ? first - can the unit work correctly if i dont plug any fans in it and just plug the cable to the CPU header - ?

I would say nothing below 10 degrees above room tempurture is the coolest you could get them in ideal conditions.

The other stuff of your questions i have no idea. Multiple speed controls on one circuit is not good. By default you max out all speed control switches and just use one to adjust speeds.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> presuming the 920 runs the same as the 620; yes you can just plug the pump into the cpu header and connect the fans seperately to a fan controller. I've got 2 fans on my 620 in push-pull, both of which are plugged directly into mobo fan headers so i can run a custom fan profile.
> 
> I agree that the stock fan does do a good job at keeping the temps down, i used just a single stock fan on my 620 on a few 775 chips with reasonable overclocks and had no issues with temps, although a little noisy at full speed when gaming. having said that, i moved to a pair of Xigmatek CLF-1254's and they are deadly silent.


ok so - the pump would work as it always does with out the fan plugs used from the cooler - and i guess your system booted fine with no issues with no fans on the CPU header -

i have the 140mm Xigmatek fans for my intake and exhast on top of the case - they are guiet - but pressure wise - not enough for the cooler i think - i may be wrong -

and the temps i guess wont be dropping my room then - its usually warm here - unless i keep my windows open - i have to wait to the summer time to see with the AC on - how much they would drop

so the unit is capable to give off lower liquid temps - if conditions permit - i guess trying out the other delta fans wont do me any good if my room temps are not cold enough -

maybe in the summer time - i can try that

thanks -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> presuming the 920 runs the same as the 620; yes you can just plug the pump into the cpu header and connect the fans seperately to a fan controller. I've got 2 fans on my 620 in push-pull, both of which are plugged directly into mobo fan headers so i can run a custom fan profile.
> 
> I agree that the stock fan does do a good job at keeping the temps down, i used just a single stock fan on my 620 on a few 775 chips with reasonable overclocks and had no issues with temps, although a little noisy at full speed when gaming. having said that, i moved to a pair of Xigmatek CLF-1254's and they are deadly silent.


ok so - the pump would work as it always does with out the fan plugs used from the cooler - and i guess your system booted fine with no issues with no fans on the CPU header -

i have the 140mm Xigmatek fans for my intake and exhast on top of the case - they are guiet - but pressure wise - not enough for the cooler i think - i may be wrong -

and the temps i guess wont be dropping my room then - its usually warm here - unless i keep my windows open - i have to wait to the summer time to see with the AC on - how much they would drop

so the unit is capable to give off lower liquid temps - if conditions permit - i guess trying out the other delta fans wont do me any good if my room temps are not cold enough -

maybe in the summer time - i can try that

thanks -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> i have a question - would you or anyone else know - on the antec 920 - how cool can those liquid temps get ? first - can the unit work correctly if i dont plug any fans in it and just plug the cable to the CPU header - ?
> 
> I would say nothing below 10 degrees above room tempurture is the coolest you could get them in ideal conditions.
> 
> The other stuff of your questions i have no idea. Multiple speed controls on one circuit is not good. By default you max out all speed control switches and just use one to adjust speeds.


you can connect two fans on each header fan etc, - just have to keep below the 1 amp rating of each header - - i dont think that would be a problem -

but being that the fans i was looking to try in the future - just to see - are way above the 1 amp rating - for each fan - i think they are 1.7 amp -

i would connect those to my fan controller - powered from the PSU - i would use a Y cable to connect both fans to one Fan Controller channel -

the wattage rating for the fan controller is i think 25 or 35 per channel - i think i would be ok with that - but i am not sure - if the amp rating would affect it or not -


----------



## crappy

140mm fans in general don't put out as much static pressure as 120mm fans do. According to the specs on the website the CLF's i've got have very good static pressure of 1.516mmH2O. Compare that to the ever increasingly popular Corsair AF120 Performance Edition's (which spin 150rpm faster) which have 1.1mmH20 and they hold up really well.

i got these over some other fans which may perform better as i wanted fans with clear housing and LED's for a mod I'm doing, but considering my very specific requirements for the features they're pretty dam good. With my 3570k clocked at 4.2, my temps across the cores (0-3) were 60, 67, 63, 62 respectively.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> 140mm fans in general don't put out as much static pressure as 120mm fans do. According to the specs on the website the CLF's i've got have very good static pressure of 1.516mmH2O. Compare that to the ever increasingly popular Corsair AF120 Performance Edition's (which spin 150rpm faster) which have 1.1mmH20 and they hold up really well.
> 
> i got these over some other fans which may perform better as i wanted fans with clear housing and LED's for a mod I'm doing, but considering my very specific requirements for the features they're pretty dam good. With my 3570k clocked at 4.2, my temps across the cores (0-3) were 60, 67, 63, 62 respectively.


i understand you are looking for a Mod - etc, also - - but i do think that the Corsair fans most people are using are the SP120 High Performance model - those specs are much better in pressure than the AF120

i was close to getting them when i realized they are 3 pin - and i wanted to control my fans with the software -

it can get very confusing when looking for fans - and i made simliar mistakes when reading specs - etc,

i dont think the stock fans are that bad at all - they are not loud - unless under full speed load - which i can control and ususally dosnt get full speed either way -

but everyone is looking to achieve something different - just watch the specs - models of these fans and make sure its what you are looking for - the stock fans give out a 3.6 pressure i think - its in that area for sure - at full speed -

my temps are silimar to yours - but i am running at 4.7 at 1.355 vcore - - steady all the time vcore -

i like to try to see if i can get it lower down as i idle etc, - but so far i tried one thing and it didnt work so i went back to steady volts -

its fine either way - way below TJ max -


----------



## plywood99

With my computer idling my water temperatures usually stays around 4c to 5c above my system temperature.



Here are my fan settings:



The lowest the modded Typhoons spin is 1200 - 1250 rpm, thats during basic computer use.
When doing a hardcore gaming session or some such they will hit around 2k.
And of course for benching I ramp them up to 4200.


----------



## crappy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i understand you are looking for a Mod - etc, also - - but i do think that the Corsair fans most people are using are the SP120 High Performance model - those specs are much better in pressure than the AF120
> 
> i was close to getting them when i realized they are 3 pin - and i wanted to control my fans with the software -
> 
> it can get very confusing when looking for fans - and i made simliar mistakes when reading specs - etc,
> 
> i dont think the stock fans are that bad at all - they are not loud - unless under full speed load - which i can control and ususally dosnt get full speed either way -
> 
> but everyone is looking to achieve something different - just watch the specs - models of these fans and make sure its what you are looking for - the stock fans give out a 3.6 pressure i think - its in that area for sure - at full speed -
> 
> my temps are silimar to yours - but i am running at 4.7 at 1.355 vcore - - steady all the time vcore -
> 
> i like to try to see if i can get it lower down as i idle etc, - but so far i tried one thing and it didnt work so i went back to steady volts -
> 
> its fine either way - way below TJ max -


Ah yeh sorry it's the SP'120s isn't it. The high performance one's come at a cost of noise though, spinning up to 2350rpm to get their quoted 3.1mmH2O with the quiet SP's going up to 1450rpm for 1.29mmH2O.

I haven't really played with overclocking mine too much. With my old 775 cpu, a good overclock was pretty much a necessity, but this chip runs so fast at stock i've left it there while gaming.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> With my computer idling my water temperatures usually stays around 4c to 5c above my system temperature.
> 
> 
> 
> Here are my fan settings:
> 
> 
> 
> The lowest the modded Typhoons spin is 1200 - 1250 rpm, thats during basic computer use.
> When doing a hardcore gaming session or some such they will hit around 2k.
> And of course for benching I ramp them up to 4200.


those are nice temps - i was looking for those temps - but in my case - i dont think i ever get them - my room is at 82 F - right now - my case fans i have a little lower - side fans also and cooler fans lower also - to keep it quiet - which it is - right now my system is on my desk very close to me and its quiet enough -

here is a screen shot - shows my board is actually 2 c warmer than my Cpu - if i raise the side fans on the case - that will drop -
given my room being this warm - i cant expect much more - if i put it at full speed the fans - i can get easly 34C - about 2C lower -

i will have a better idea in the summer with the AC on -

even though - my temps are higher than most - but still long ways from doing any damage -

the most i do is Nero video - and DVD Fab - blu rays etc

i dont think it loads it 100% - even if it did - i would be fine - but i am sure it dosnt - i will try to see if i can lower my Vcore - or use a off set - if i figure that out - or else - i am not worried

plus i got the Intel insurance


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> Ah yeh sorry it's the SP'120s isn't it. The high performance one's come at a cost of noise though, spinning up to 2350rpm to get their quoted 3.1mmH2O with the quiet SP's going up to 1450rpm for 1.29mmH2O.
> 
> I haven't really played with overclocking mine too much. With my old 775 cpu, a good overclock was pretty much a necessity, but this chip runs so fast at stock i've left it there while gaming.


Yes - but just so you undestand something - which i think is important - i got all caught up with the noise - etc, everyone is changing stock fans - for one reason or another -

so at first - i never installed the stock fans - thinking they were too loud - not good etc, - turns out - they are fine - not only fine - they are very good - you can control the fans with the software - so noise it not a issue -

i was going with the SP fans - before i realized they are 3 pin - cant control them - at first i used Cougar Vortex fans - which are actually very nice and quiet - good enough pressure - but i changed them to try the stock fans - which i am keeping because i have them nice and quiet - and doing fine - my system wont get any cooler unless i get my room cooler -

i notice in most other peoples situation - there rooms are much cooler than mines - my room is 82 F right now - -

just for fun - i will end up changing out the fans again and putting high speed delta fans - on my controller - by passing the software - which was not my goal right now -

and see how low i can get my liquid temps in the summer time - when i have the AC on - i should get below 30C then -

my advice to anyone who gets one of these coolers - is first use the stock fans and see for yourself before going crazy trying to find that perfect fan -

if anything its bettter to have a high speed fan and able to lower it down - than to get a low speed quiet fan and then cant go any higher if you wanted or if it wasnt good enough for you -


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> my advice to anyone who gets one of these coolers - is first use the stock fans and see for yourself before going crazy trying to find that perfect fan -
> 
> if anything its bettter to have a high speed fan and able to lower it down - than to get a low speed quiet fan and then cant go any higher if you wanted or if it wasnt good enough for you -


^^ Agree with you totally.
Stock fans really are pretty good. They do get noisy at higher rpms, but the amount of air they push is hard to beat.
The reason I changed out the stock fans was mainly due to running them horizontally. The motors get just plain nasty when run horizontally.
I don't know if its the bearings or what, but it's ugly. Vast majority of people though run the fans vertically so it's not an issue.

For the 620, any fan will do.
As for the 920, PWM fans are the only way to go. Honestly you're not taking advantage of what the 920 offers if you use 3 pin fans.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> i agree - you used to get more feedback from the older stuff - now its a guessing game - did it work - is it tight - ? etc, etc, and no one knows haha
> elts fans or not ?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> presuming the 920 runs the same as the 620; yes you can just plug the pump into the cpu header and connect the fans seperately to a fan controller. I've got 2 fans on my 620 in push-pull, both of which y are deadly silent.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> ok so - the pump would work as it always does with out the fan plugs used from the cooler - and i guess your system booted fine with no issues with no fans on the CPU header -
> thanks -


I've already stated this, and told you about it expresso:
I put my Sp120's in my fan headers.
The bios and system find it fine
However the antec software will pick up no fans and show you errors (which you can disable the notification for)

As for the control - I prefer it via my bios 0 unless I had stock fans,t hen the antec software is the best.

For the noise- when gaming on BF3 or rendering a video, they get noticeably loud.
Now I can't hear my Sp120's whilst on idle and/or whilst doing the same operations.

Overall, now my rig is quieter on idle, and quit on gaming
Before it was quit on idle, but loud or average on gaming.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've already stated this, and told you about it expresso:
> I put my Sp120's in my fan headers.
> 
> i
> The bios and system find it fine
> However the antec software will pick up no fans and show you errors (which you can disable the notification for)
> 
> As for the control - I prefer it via my bios 0 unless I had stock fans,t hen the antec software is the best.
> 
> For the noise- when gaming on BF3 or rendering a video, they get noticeably loud.
> Now I can't hear my Sp120's whilst on idle and/or whilst doing the same operations.
> 
> Overall, now my rig is quieter on idle, and quit on gaming
> Before it was quit on idle, but loud or average on gaming.


very nice - its good to know you can use the fans this way - in my case - if i do upgrade my fans to see what it can do - i wont be able to put them on the board headers - they only handle up to 1 amp each header - if i am going to try to see what the 920 can do - i will try high speed delta fans with static pressure of about 35 H20 - compared to 3.6 - its a hugh jump - but downside is noise of course and they take each about 1.5 amp draw or 1.7 - not sure - depending on which model fan you get -

in this case - i would connect both fans to a fan controller i have already - just to see what it can do - in real life situation - cant keep them on full - but i can control them so would be interesting to see how my temps are this way -

as long as i can control them - and system boots with no problem - 920 pump works - then i am fine with it - may try it in the summer time - since i want to just use my system now - i opened this thing up a dozen times already - for one reason or another -


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> very nice - its good to know you can use the fans this way - in my case - if i do upgrade my fans to see what it can do - i wont be able to put them on the board headers - they only handle up to 1 amp each header - if i am going to try to see what the 920 can do - i will try high speed delta fans with static pressure of about 35 H20 - compared to 3.6 - its a hugh jump - but downside is noise of course and they take each about 1.5 amp draw or 1.7 - not sure - depending on which model fan you get -
> 
> in this case - i would connect both fans to a fan controller i have already - just to see what it can do - in real life situation - cant keep them on full - but i can control them so would be interesting to see how my temps are this way -
> 
> as long as i can control them - and system boots with no problem - 920 pump works - then i am fine with it - may try it in the summer time - since i want to just use my system now - i opened this thing up a dozen times already - for one reason or another -


your fan headers are 1A? madness!
It should be near 12A, where the fan only draws 0.8A


----------



## dezmick

I am thinking of switching from a 620 to a 920, is the mounting hardware the same, as in can i just remove the pump and radiator for the 620 and put the 920 into the same hardware that is already mounted on my board, or would i have to use all new hardware.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> I am thinking of switching from a 620 to a 920, is the mounting hardware the same, as in can i just remove the pump and radiator for the 620 and put the 920 into the same hardware that is already mounted on my board, or would i have to use all new hardware.


No idea of the mounts on the 620 etc.
See my guide in my sig, and see if it is the same.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> your fan headers are 1A? madness!
> It should be near 12A, where the fan only draws 0.8A


yeah i was a little surprised - i mean - you make a OC board and then limit it with the headers dosnt make sense -

thats what Gigabyte told me - PSU - and fan controller if you want high speed deltas -


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> yeah i was a little surprised - i mean - you make a OC board and then limit it with the headers dosnt make sense -
> 
> thats what Gigabyte told me - PSU - and fan controller if you want high speed deltas -


Sorry but I can't stop but notice your excessive use of dashes, it makes me not want to read everything. It is just not pleasant to the eyes. Just a friendly advice mate, no offense mean


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> yeah i was a little surprised - i mean - you make a OC board and then limit it with the headers dosnt make sense -
> 
> thats what Gigabyte told me - PSU - and fan controller if you want high speed deltas -


Most motherboard fan headers put out around 1amp give or take.
Keep in mind V x A = watts
So roughly 12 watts for your motherboard fan header.

I hooked my Typhoons up to a cheapy fan controller and it died instantly


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Sorry but I can't stop but notice your excessive use of dashes, it makes me not want to read everything. It is just not pleasant to the eyes. Just a friendly advice mate, no offense mean


hey , sorry if that bothers you , its a habit , how would you like me to write ?

would a comma instead of a dash work better ?

it just happens when i type, thanks for pointing that out to me ,


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Most motherboard fan headers put out around 1amp give or take.
> Keep in mind V x A = watts
> So roughly 12 watts for your motherboard fan header.
> 
> I hooked my Typhoons up to a cheapy fan controller and it died instantly


I see , thats good to know , i am using a Logisys controller which says it can handle 30 watts a channel , i would think its ok to hook up two delta fans on a Y cable to one channel and control them both or i can use one fan for one channel also -

i guess i will find out when i try it

so a fan which gives out 1.7 amp each , should be fine on one fan controller ? 1.7 amp x 2 ==

thanks


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> hey , sorry if that bothers you , its a habit , how would you like me to write ?
> 
> would a comma instead of a dash work better ?
> 
> it just happens when i type, thanks for pointing that out to me ,


No worries mate, I just had to say it. You can ignore it, if you like, no problems.

If you're asking for my advice though, just use proper punctuation marks if you're comfortable with that. Not all commas, not all periods, not all dashes but a combination of each (proper punctuation marking).


----------



## grassh0ppa

I'm still looking for someone to take this thread over. I simply do not have time, and I apologize for making a club without thinking ahead. At the time I was not in school, now I am majoring in Biochemistry









Please email me if you are interested in running the thread, but don't make the same mistake I did.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> No worries mate, I just had to say it. You can ignore it, if you like, no problems.
> 
> If you're asking for my advice though, just use proper punctuation marks if you're comfortable with that. Not all commas, not all periods, not all dashes but a combination of each (proper punctuation marking).


its all good ,

thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*
> 
> I'm still looking for someone to take this thread over. I simply do not have time, and I apologize for making a club without thinking ahead. At the time I was not in school, now I am majoring in Biochemistry
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please email me if you are interested in running the thread, but don't make the same mistake I did.


I'll PM you seeing as I'm quite active on these threads and own (and don't see myself changing) my antec 920.


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*
> 
> Please email me if you are interested in running the thread, but don't make the same mistake I did.


Creating a thread or taking bio chem?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Creating a thread or taking bio chem?


I've PMed him, I'll let you know what he means - I think you might be able to take over thread ownership?


----------



## Maximization

Naa i am not good with that owner, managing stuff. The new x versions are coming out from Antec so i guess this thread wil get more busy.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Naa i am not good with that owner, managing stuff. The new x versions are coming out from Antec so i guess this thread wil get more busy.


I'm putting my head in to take ownership don't worry


----------



## Maximization

you did the guide and everything so i think that makes sense.


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> I see , thats good to know , i am using a Logisys controller which says it can handle 30 watts a channel , i would think its ok to hook up two delta fans on a Y cable to one channel and control them both or i can use one fan for one channel also -
> 
> i guess i will find out when i try it
> 
> so a fan which gives out 1.7 amp each , should be fine on one fan controller ? 1.7 amp x 2 ==
> 
> thanks


Thats almost 41 watts on one channel. If you start them out undervolted, aka with the fan controller on low, you might be ok.

Tbe be safe I would use one fan per channel.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Creating a thread or taking bio chem?


Creating a thread without realizing how busy a biochem degree would make me. Taking biochem was no mistake, one of the best life decisions ive made.


----------



## airberg

Hey guys! Nice to see a club dedicated to those with the Kuhler! I own the 920 and think its a fantastic cooling solution! However I'm struggling to keep my temps down when running prime95 with high voltages.. 1.584 vcore with fx-4100 @ 4.7ghz all 4 cores. My temps get pretty high after about 5 minutes.. 75C and I'm wondering if anyone has gone over those temps and if anyone knows how bad it is for the fx processors.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> Hey guys! Nice to see a club dedicated to those with the Kuhler! I own the 920 and think its a fantastic cooling solution! However I'm struggling to keep my temps down when running prime95 with high voltages.. 1.584 vcore with fx-4100 @ 4.7ghz all 4 cores. My temps get pretty high after about 5 minutes.. 75C and I'm wondering if anyone has gone over those temps and if anyone knows how bad it is for the fx processors.


your software looks...blue!








As for temps - what's the TJ max so to speak on it?

I get high temps with a high clock/volts - if you want a high clock - then you need to go pot or watercooled lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> Hey guys! Nice to see a club dedicated to those with the Kuhler! I own the 920 and think its a fantastic cooling solution! However I'm struggling to keep my temps down when running prime95 with high voltages.. 1.584 vcore with fx-4100 @ 4.7ghz all 4 cores. My temps get pretty high after about 5 minutes.. 75C and I'm wondering if anyone has gone over those temps and if anyone knows how bad it is for the fx processors.


your software looks...blue!








As for temps - what's the TJ max so to speak on it?

I get high temps with a high clock/volts - if you want a high clock - then you need to go pot or watercooled lol


----------



## Maximization

Kühler kicks ass
5.00 ghz
41 c liquid temp on custom

34 c liquid temp on extreme


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> your software looks...blue!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for temps - what's the TJ max so to speak on it?
> 
> I get high temps with a high clock/volts - if you want a high clock - then you need to go pot or watercooled lol


I'm not sure what the max is. i remember when i was running the stock cooler without any overclock it got into the 70s on prime95 so im not too sure.


----------



## plywood99

Airberg,
Those volts are OVERKILL! No way possible you need over 1.5v for 4.7 ghz.
If you need to know how to overclock Bulldozer I would look into one of the many overclocking guides or you can PM me and I'll help you out.
Also your cpu socket temp hit 64c max.







Thats uhm.... a lot.








And your HT link running at 2800+ is a bit much too.

As for your temperatures, yes they are high, too high. Partly from the insanely high voltage and partly from bad mounting of the pump.
Is the 920 new? Which mounting kit does it use, the new style or old style?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Oh god I turned on my Kuhler 920 for the first time. All you hear is water dripping. That's terrifying. Anyways I kind of bled it out, it's all good now


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Oh god I turned on my Kuhler 920 for the first time. All you hear is water dripping. That's terrifying. Anyways I kind of bled it out, it's all good now


Ahh, you mean the kwish qwuish sound huh. Lol.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Yeah that lol. But it's all good.

Also, how do you guys cool your VRAM + VRMs? My core temps were at 45C with a terrible AF quiet editon fan on the rad (Temporary)... but the VRMs shot up past 90C


----------



## M3TAl

I've got temp sensors from my fan controller on my vrm heatsink and NB heatsink. The case fans do the cooling for me. 2x120mm top exhaust, 120mm rear exhaust, 120mm side, bottom, and front intake. Normally when on desktop my rpm's around 1000-1100 but when running 1500rpm those temp sensors drop every time.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've got temp sensors from my fan controller on my vrm heatsink and NB heatsink. The case fans do the cooling for me. 2x120mm top exhaust, 120mm rear exhaust, 120mm side, bottom, and front intake. Normally when on desktop my rpm's around 1000-1100 but when running 1500rpm those temp sensors drop every time.


Tried overclocking, VRMs are at 114C. nope.


----------



## M3TAl

I've never seen the heatsink (who knows what actual vrm chip temp is) go past say 60C for me. Right now it's at 37C and NB at 52C (cold in my room and running power saver atm).

EDIT: Also forgot to mention, the way my radiator is mounted in the drive bays with 2 fans p/p, it blows right over the memory and vrm heatsink too. So I guess there's a lot of air blowing through that area haha.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I've never seen the heatsink (who knows what actual vrm chip temp is) go past say 60C for me. Right now it's at 37C and NB at 52C (cold in my room and running power saver atm).


Could you run a stress-testing program like Kombustor or similar, and check VRM temps with HWInfo64? That would be really helpful


----------



## M3TAl

I can do that tomorrow. But I'm not even sure any of the mobo sensors are for vrm honestly. The most stressful thing I've ever ran was ~13 hours Intel Burn Test at maximum memory like a month ago at my current OC. 4ghz 1.488V load and 2.6ghz cpu-nb 1.325V.

But right now it's time to sleep! Tomorrow if you still need to see temps I can do it.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I can do that tomorrow. But I'm not even sure any of the mobo sensors are for vrm honestly. The most stressful thing I've ever ran was ~13 hours Intel Burn Test at maximum memory like a month ago at my current OC. 4ghz 1.488V load and 2.6ghz cpu-nb 1.325V.
> 
> But right now it's time to sleep! Tomorrow if you still need to see temps I can do it.


Not for mobo VRM, for GPU VRM


----------



## kyton

Finally put a Antec H20 Kuhler 620 on my z77 extreme4 and i5-3570k. Antec fan shows in bios @ 1420rpm constantly.
Chasis is Aerocool 6th element with front fan and top exit fan.

idle is now 33 dec cel. CPU Motherboard temp is 33 deg

Battlefield 3 load CPU temp 49 Deg motherboard 37

With Intel Stock 64 deg motherboard 41

Really happy with this cooler.

Are these temps fine?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

These are my temps with my 920.
I'm going to open it up today, and change the thermal paste to the Arctic MX-2 - I'll report changes or not here









Stock paste:


----------



## tdrloux

Hi everyone!

This is my first post in this forum, and, sorry about my poor english.

I bought a antec kuhler 920, when I opened the box I took the WC and shake the radiator slowly. I heard the water swinging, like a little empty space in the watercooler system.

My question is: this is normal? Should I worry?

Thank you.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Thats almost 41 watts on one channel. If you start them out undervolted, aka with the fan controller on low, you might be ok.
> 
> Tbe be safe I would use one fan per channel.


OH - whow i didnt know that , thanks
i can use one fan for one controller , but its still over the wattage limit

i am not doing this right now , was just thinking over a few things

if i do something like that , i may look into a model which can stay within the limits of the 30 watts i think per channel

but now i am also thinking , it may be best to just leave it as it and use it , which is working fine , i do have the intel insurance just in case so i dont have to worry if the chip fails this way

or maybe next year or so , take out the chip and delid it, i want to learn a little bit more about delid and what is best to used to clean it off , apply new paste , how to seal the lid again etc . before i try it,

that would be the best way to lower the temps since its two of my cores which run the hottest , and i dont think now even adding those delta fans will do as much as i am expecting

i figure let me use it this way for a year at least just in case i kill the chip , i dont think the insurance would cover if you delid it , only if you cook it from OC but not taking it apart , i may be wrong

do you think intel would replace the chip if you delid it and it fails somewhere down the line ?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Thats almost 41 watts on one channel. If you start them out undervolted, aka with the fan controller on low, you might be ok.
> 
> Tbe be safe I would use one fan per channel.


do you mean thats 41 watts with both fans connected to one channel ?

if i use one fan per channel would it be ok ?

thanks


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> These are my temps with my 920.
> I'm going to open it up today, and change the thermal paste to the Arctic MX-2 - I'll report changes or not here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Stock paste:


those temps dont look that bad ? you feel they should be better ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> those temps dont look that bad ? you feel they should be better ?


82 to 93c -> yes they should be better bro lol


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Airberg,
> Those volts are OVERKILL! No way possible you need over 1.5v for 4.7 ghz.
> If you need to know how to overclock Bulldozer I would look into one of the many overclocking guides or you can PM me and I'll help you out.
> Also your cpu socket temp hit 64c max.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thats uhm.... a lot.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And your HT link running at 2800+ is a bit much too.
> 
> As for your temperatures, yes they are high, too high. Partly from the insanely high voltage and partly from bad mounting of the pump.
> Is the 920 new? Which mounting kit does it use, the new style or old style?


Those voltages are with LLC on but if I go any lower, stability becomes an issue. I did a full cleaning of my computer last night, there was a lot of dust causing reduced cooling. Temps have dropped about 5C under full load and hover around 70 now after 25 minutes of prime. As for HT @2800+.. It was only that high cuz I could get it up there. I can't seem to get my CPU-NB over 2500mhz. Even with the volts cranked up. Seems that's the highest I can go. But back to the CPU, idk maybe I got a crap chip. From 4.6ghz to 4.7ghz I have to dump an extra .05+ volts to the CPU for stability. And hitting 5ghz I'm throwing in over 1.6 volts.

Oh I also reapplied new thermal paste which I believe helped as well


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 82 to 93c -> yes they should be better bro lol


but isnt that on load ? i though getting them up in the 90's during load is still ok

they wont get there during normal use ?

mines are in that ball park also , i know mines is a bit warmer than what most others are getting , i guess if i want better , i have to delid


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> but isnt that on load ? i though getting them up in the 90's during load is still ok
> 
> they wont get there during normal use ?
> 
> mines are in that ball park also , i know mines is a bit warmer than what most others are getting , i guess if i want better , i have to delid


Yeah 85-90c depending on your voltage.
But in comparison to most, my voltage is ONLY 1.265 - I can't imagine it at 1.35v


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Not for mobo VRM, for GPU VRM


Sorry, thought we were talking about motherboard vrm. Are you cooling the gpu with a 620/920 and you're worried about not getting airflow on the vrm?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah 85-90c depending on your voltage.
> But in comparison to most, my voltage is ONLY 1.265 - I can't imagine it at 1.35v


Oh i see ,, i didnt see the volts , i am on 1.350 myself

with those volts i would think should be lower

you know my first 920 had a issue for sure because my new one i am using now pumps higher stays in the 3000 range which the other one didnt , it was close but never hit 3000 and above
and i noticed a strange order which other people who came in my room also noticed , i though it was just me , it didnt leak , but it did have a strange order at times coming from the rear fan

now i dont get that order and i am using the stock fans , pump working 3000 and above all the time

i used the stock paste that it came with and i did screw it down most it can go , my room is warm also so i cant get any cooler unless i keep my windows open all the way or have the AC on in the summer , other than that i would need to delid if i really wanted to do more

i am happy for now at 4.7 with insurance on my chip







if i get the itch next year to take it out and delid it maybe try for higher OC

would you know if Intel releases a faster chip down the line , would you think they keep it the same socket ? then can just purchase a new faster chip in a few years ? or just delid this one and get faster OC ,

just good to know ,

thanks


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> would you know if Intel releases a faster chip down the line , would you think they keep it the same socket ?


With Intel's track record you should definitely expect a new socket. Is Haswell going to be on a new socket?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> With Intel's track record you should definitely expect a new socket. Is Haswell going to be on a new socket?


yeah they all do that ,

this is my first intel system ,


----------



## M3TAl

We all know AMD likes to stick to their socket for ages, which I like because I don't usually build an entire system all at once. I upgrade in stages. Went through 3 CPU's on my S939 over the years and 2 CPU's on AM2/3.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Hi everyone!
> 
> This is my first post in this forum, and, sorry about my poor english.
> 
> I bought a antec kuhler 920, when I opened the box I took the WC and shake the radiator slowly. I heard the water swinging, like a little empty space in the watercooler system.
> 
> My question is: this is normal? Should I worry?
> 
> Thank you.


Someone?


----------



## airberg

Shouldn't be a problem, just be sure to mount the radiator with the hoses on the bottom so that you keep any air that might be in the system in the top resivoir of the radiator.


----------



## airberg

Shouldn't be a problem, just be sure to mount the radiator with the hoses on the bottom so that you keep any air that might be in the system in the top resivoir of the radiator.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> Shouldn't be a problem, just be sure to mount the radiator with the hoses on the bottom so that you keep any air that might be in the system in the top resivoir of the radiator.


Ah, thank you


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> We all know AMD likes to stick to their socket for ages, which I like because I don't usually build an entire system all at once. I upgrade in stages. Went through 3 CPU's on my S939 over the years and 2 CPU's on AM2/3.


you know i still have my 939 socket DFI landparty with AMD dual core -

WD raptor hard drive , 240mm Rad , danger den block and Landing pump i think its called , worked great with 1/2 inch tubing

2 gig OCZ Ram

do you think i can sell those items on ebay ? i mean who would want them now ?

i hate to waste it , i have it in a termal take full case

new corsair 600 PSU

the only thing i carried over to was the PSU which i am using now


----------



## expresso

not the 600 in my new system

i am using TX750 model with the intel which i took off from the AMD and put in the 600 just to have something in there,


----------



## M3TAl

Turn it into a media server...


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> you know i still have my 939 socket DFI landparty with AMD dual core -
> 
> WD raptor hard drive , 240mm Rad , danger den block and Landing pump i think its called , worked great with 1/2 inch tubing
> 
> 2 gig OCZ Ram
> 
> do you think i can sell those items on ebay ? i mean who would want them now ?
> 
> i hate to waste it , i have it in a termal take full case
> 
> new corsair 600 PSU
> 
> the only thing i carried over to was the PSU which i am using now


The undieing socket 939, you can get a few bills for it still. My opteron 185 is worth about 200.00 still. But it all still works great , just slower, compaired to todays tech.


----------



## grassh0ppa

The cross over should be finalized soon. Good luck with the takeover, Totally Dubbed. I'll still try to pop in every once in a while


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Turn it into a medi
> 
> a server...


i dont have any room to keep another unit around ,

who knows maybe get a smaller case and put it all in there

give it a family member etc,


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> The undieing socket 939, you can get a few bills for it still. My opteron 185 is worth about 200.00 still. But it all still works great , just slower, compaired to todays tech.


maybe i will do that then - strip it down and sell the parts in ebay ,

200 isnt bad , i would take it since i have no use for it now , have to think about it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ok guys, I'm not kidding when I say this:
If you have the stock paste, be warned that your chip might fry.
I'll update you guys in a bit, removed and replaced the paste...or what you can call metal to metal.

Here's what I posted on the delid club (I haven't delidded yet)

Let me put this short and sweet, I'll update again.
If I didn't open my antec to change the paste, in around 2 months I would be running on metal on metal.

Current temps are already 10c cooler. On idle and on ibt.
Results to follow soon....

Antec are going to fear my wrath.


----------



## Maximization

I can't belive this, i used the stock paste. I have tube arctic silver 5 and a tube of antec silver formula 6 and decided to just go with the stock paste. Are your sure? unless its a new problem not seen before.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> I can't belive this, i used the stock paste. I have tube arctic silver 5 and a tube of antec formula 6 and decided to just go with the stock paste. Are your sure? unless its a new problem not seen before.


I'm going to log all of it down - wait up.


----------



## airberg

I
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ok guys, I'm not kidding when I say this:
> If you have the stock paste, be warned that your chip might fry.
> I'll update you guys in a bit, removed and replaced the paste...or what you can call metal to metal.
> 
> Here's what I posted on the delid club (I haven't delidded yet)
> 
> Let me put this short and sweet, I'll update again.
> If I didn't open my antec to change the paste, in around 2 months I would be running on metal on metal.
> 
> Current temps are already 10c cooler. On idle and on ibt.
> Results to follow soon....
> 
> Antec are going to fear my wrath.


I had just replaced the stock paste on mine last night. You're right about the stock paste going to ****. It was crusted up and even bare in spots. I used antec formula 7 paste when I put it back and it's running a LOT cooler now. Maxing out at 64c running prime for 25 minutes now. I still need to lower the voltage a tad


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> maybe i will do that then - strip it down and sell the parts in ebay ,
> 
> 200 isnt bad , i would take it since i have no use for it now , have to think about it


Expresso - I think you'll be interested from the video I just published - had you in mind when I was doing this.

SP120 quiet vs stock antec 920.


----------



## crappy

I always use TIM that i've purchased, never what comes with a cooler. Using MX-4 at the minute, but i'm a really big fan of Zalman STG1. It comes in a nail polish sized bottle and you basically 'paint it' on both surfaces in a really thin coating. none of this pea/cross line malarky. guaranteed full coverage


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> I always use TIM that i've purchased, never what comes with a cooler. Using MX-4 at the minute, but i'm a really big fan of Zalman STG1. It comes in a nail polish sized bottle and you basically 'paint it' on both surfaces in a really thin coating. none of this pea/cross line malarky. guaranteed full coverage


Definitely a not-good method of applying thermal paste. You'll be surprised that using the pea "malarky" would give you better temps because it produces less air bubbles than your method.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Here's my log of it now published in a separate thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1350571/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-stock-paste-removal-and-replacement-a-shocking-discovery

I wish it was only paste related but no - physical damage to my £255 i7 too.
Well done Antec...."slow claps"


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Not for mobo VRM, for GPU VRM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry, thought we were talking about motherboard vrm. Are you cooling the gpu with a 620/920 and you're worried about not getting airflow on the vrm?
Click to expand...

Cooling with a 920 and plenty of airflow. My VRMs are still blasting into 114ºC while benchmarking (throttling, btw). There's no heatsinks or cooling on the VRMs so that's kind of expected


----------



## dezmick

I am using a corsair sp 120 performance and a Coolermaster Excalibur in a push pull on my 620, are those good fans to use, or should i go with something else. Thanks: Mickey


----------



## airberg

Since I've replaced the thermal paste and dusted all components, dropped the vcore down a tad, opened my window to let the arctic air that canada felt the need to send down south and now my temps are down!


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Expresso - I think you'll be interested from the video I just published - had you in mind when I was doing this.
> 
> SP120 quiet vs stock antec 920.


nice , i get what your saying ,, overall in general normal use , the Corsair fans can do as good and quiet where the stock fans can get loud if left at full speed , from what i read , these coolers need high pressure , so the more the better but you have to find a sweet spot , which i did using the stock fans with a custom setting, they are quiet all the time unless my system gets loaded , and its not often that happens , only when testing ,

i had cougar vortex HP first , they were nice and i am using two of them on my side window pushing in , but the stock fans do a better job at moving air for sure ,

i was going with the SP120 till i seen it was 3 pin , one of the reasons for getting this cooler was because i can control the fans with the Chill software ,

always good to test different fans, everyones situation is different , room temps are different etc, i rather have the high speed as long as i can control them ,, since my room is warm

in the end its a few C's difference , not the big difference you are getting from changing the paste and delid etc, i am not going to stress over it anymore , i am just about done trying to get this offset to work , i give it a few more tries and then back to 4.7 with no offset at 1.350v -

no worries , worst case it dies and i got the insurance from intel , most likely nothing is going to happen and i will end up next year changing paste or delid which would change paste either way doing that ,

thanks for the type of paste to get ,


----------



## M3TAl

Did they change the stock paste or something? I only used the stock paste for maybe 3-4 months but when I removed it the paste was same as day one.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Did they change the stock paste or something? I only used the stock paste for maybe 3-4 months but when I removed it the paste was same as day one.


.

i hope what ever paste they used or which ever one i have works out , i just installed mines a few weeks ago but i did have it for a month before installing it i think it was about a month ago

seems to be ok for me at least unless i just dont know how much better it can be just yet


----------



## feteru

I just installed my 620 today, and I was wondering if it was odd that the pump power seems to be a three pin connector, as well as the fan. Also, I'm getting pretty aggravating pump noise if I unplug the fans, but I can't get the fans to not be pegged if they're connected to the pump pass through. My temps are around 30C, so that's great, but I'm not sure if these other things are issues and I figured here was the place to ask.


----------



## M3TAl

The connectors all being 3 pin is normal and you can also plug your fan to a motherboard header if you so choose (and run a fan profile with mobo software). As far as pump noise, if it doesn't go away then you might need to try moving your case around. I get some really loud swooshing only when I move my radiator around a lot trying diff positions and also moving my case around a lot. But the noise usually goes away in a minute or two.


----------



## crappy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kevindd992002*
> 
> Definitely a not-good method of applying thermal paste. You'll be surprised that using the pea "malarky" would give you better temps because it produces less air bubbles than your method.


you don't get any air bubles. the zalman is much MUCH thinner than normal TIM, so you can smear a really thin layer across the surfaces just filling in the imperfections and reducing the amount of tim inbetween the chip and cooler, which means less thermal resistance.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> you don't get any air bubles. the zalman is much MUCH thinner than normal TIM, so you can smear a really thin layer across the surfaces just filling in the imperfections and reducing the amount of tim inbetween the chip and cooler, which means less thermal resistance.


Uh, I don't know what to say to you.


----------



## Maximization

just use toothpaste...hahahahahahahahaha


----------



## crappy

I've heard bacon smeared with lard works wonderfully. lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *crappy*
> 
> I've heard bacon smeared with lard works wonderfully.
> lol


Nothing is compete without a little Jack Daniels Saaauuuce on it though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Double bacon licking post


----------



## holiman1982

Hello everyone, I bought a 620 a few months back and am very interested in joining your group. I do not have the 620 hooked up yet (custom OEM motherboard), but I am really looking forward to seeing what it can do on an FX-8350 in push/pull configuration (with a set of stock fans). Thanks.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiman1982*
> 
> Hello everyone, I bought a 620 a few months back and am very interested in joining your group. I do not have the 620 hooked up yet (custom OEM motherboard), but I am really looking forward to seeing what it can do on an FX-8350 in push/pull configuration (with a set of stock fans). Thanks.


Could you elaborate on the custom OEM motherboard part?


----------



## holiman1982

it's an acer mobo, made inhouse by them. it has it's own heatsink and the mounting plates don't fit. So, I'm replacing it with an MSI 990FXA-GD80V2 in a couple of weeks.


----------



## diesel678

i'm on my 2nd antec kuhler 620 that i got this morning from RMA I'm not sure if it is some kind of joke but both of them have had extremely loud grinding sounds coming from the pump on certain orientations on both 5v and 12v.

the first one i had was only quiet when i turned my pc upside down!! this one is only quiet when the pc is lying sideways and when i put it upright it starts grinding like rocks inside the pump and temps go 100C+ straight away. i tried every possible 'fix', shaking radiator, shaking pump, tapping tubes, magnet, radiator position to supposedly shift air bubbles ETC. the next time i have to return it i will have spend more in shipping than i did on the cooler itself.. can anyone help me?

recording of the sound from about a foot away
View My Video


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> i'm on my 2nd antec kuhler 620 from RMA I'm not sure if it is some kind of joke but both of them have had extremely loud grinding sounds coming from the pump on certain orientations on both 5v and 12v. the first one i had was only quiet when i turned my pc upside down!! this one is only quiet when the pc is lying sideways and when i put it upright it starts grinding like rocks inside the pump and temps go 100C+ straight away. i tried every possible 'fix', shaking radiator, shaking pump, tapping tubes, magnet, radiator position to supposedly shift air bubbles ETC. the next time i have to return it i will have spend more in shipping than i did on the cooler itself.. can anyone help me?


Normally you have to give it 5mins, and some time for the bubble to go out.
Have you tried leaving it running for several hours?
More so does it actually work? By that i mean is the pump actually working and thus cooling your temps?


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> i'm on my 2nd antec kuhler 620 that i got this morning from RMA I'm not sure if it is some kind of joke but both of them have had extremely loud grinding sounds coming from the pump on certain orientations on both 5v and 12v.
> 
> the first one i had was only quiet when i turned my pc upside down!! this one is only quiet when the pc is lying sideways and when i put it upright it starts grinding like rocks inside the pump and temps go 100C+ straight away. i tried every possible 'fix', shaking radiator, shaking pump, tapping tubes, magnet, radiator position to supposedly shift air bubbles ETC. the next time i have to return it i will have spend more in shipping than i did on the cooler itself.. can anyone help me?
> 
> recording of the sound from about a foot away
> View My Video


Which way do you have the radiator oriented?


----------



## diesel678

the one i just got has been running for a few hours with the same result, and previous one was running for around 3 days with no change. when i put the case upright and grinding starts the temps rapidly increase

the radiator is oriented with the tubes at the lowest point


----------



## plywood99

Deisel
^^
You have air trapped in the pump.
Do this:
1) Lay computer on its side.
2) Unscrew the radiator and hold it in the air vertically above the pump. It should go this way, Top of rad, pump lines, pump. This will help the air bubble leave the pump.
3) Now if you can while holding the rad up, turn on the system just for a bit. No damage will be done its just to get the air to flush into the upper part of the rad.
4) Put rad back in case with the hoses facing Down.
5) Enjoy a quiet 620.

Hope this helps.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> ^^
> You have air trapped in the pump.


How does he remove the air then?
After shaking it, moving it, and even tilting his pc upside down?


----------



## plywood99

I'm a slow typer.








Please check my edit.


----------



## Fulvin

Moving the air into the rad will most likely eliminate the sound. Trapped air in the pump is what causes the most headache. I couldn't hear my pump at all, and i had only noctua fans in my system.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I'm a slow typer.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Please check my edit.


haha









I have to say quite a few people experience this problem.
Is that just because the way it has been "standing up" whilst in a box?

EDIT:
In other news - I've become the OP of the thread, after the hand-over







!
I will get to work on the OP, the spreadsheet and everything!


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have to say quite a few people experience this problem.
> *Is that just because the way it has been "standing up" whilst in a box?*
> 
> EDIT:
> In other news - I've become the OP of the thread, after the hand-over
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> I will get to work on the OP, the spreadsheet and everything!


You got it Dubbed. More instructions included with these units detailing potential issues would ease a lot of pain and frustration for consumers.

Grats on taking over the thread. You're active and will do a good job I'm sure.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> You got it Dubbed. More instructions included with these units detailing potential issues would ease a lot of pain and frustration for consumers.
> 
> Grats on taking over the thread. You're active and will do a good job I'm sure.


What would you guys like seeing in the OP?

I have plans for the following:
-A video section (official and un-official)
-A written review section
-Spreadsheet with member names


----------



## diesel678

thank you for your help but i'm sad to say that it has not resolved the issue.. I almost knew this replacement cooler would be grinding before i even opened the box..









ill see if i can get refunded i believe the shop is obliged to refund my return postage for faulty items and maybe with that ill buy a corsair hydro.. who knows


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What would you guys like seeing in the OP?
> 
> I have plans for the following:
> -A video section (official and un-official)
> -A written review section
> -Spreadsheet with member names


Maybe some hot, partially dressed chicks holding Kuhlers. That would be nice..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Maybe some hot, partially dressed chicks holding Kuhlers. That would be nice..


I'm inclined to do that...let me find some...









Hmmm quick google and found some MSI girls - my search goes on....


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diesel678*
> 
> thank you for your help but i'm sad to say that it has not resolved the issue.. I almost knew this replacement cooler would be grinding before i even opened the box..
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ill see if i can get refunded i believe the shop is obliged to refund my return postage for faulty items and maybe with that ill buy a corsair hydro.. who knows


that sucks , would you want to try the 920 ? i had to RMA my first one , didnt cool as good and temps too high , the one i got back is working fine so far , you maybe can hear it a little but nothing like your video , these things should not have so many issues , they may be minor but its a pain in the ass to mount , find out its a bad unit - unmount - send back - wait - remount ,

as long as mines works now , i will keep it , but if anything happens to this one , i think i will go right to Water the real way , pump , Rad , block etc, or try Corsair unit , the mount seems much easier on that one ,

its too bad , the antec looks pretty nice if it had a better track record , if i had to change units at some time , do you think a thinner Rad would work just as good with a push / pull , instead of a thick Rad. ?

thinner rad wont need such high pressure fans and if you use them should work even better ? i may be wrong , anyone tried or tested both setups with thin Rad and Thick Rad ?


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> that sucks , would you want to try the 920 ? i had to RMA my first one , didnt cool as good and temps too high , the one i got back is working fine so far , you maybe can hear it a little but nothing like your video , these things should not have so many issues , they may be minor but its a pain in the ass to mount , find out its a bad unit - unmount - send back - wait - remount ,
> 
> as long as mines works now , i will keep it , but if anything happens to this one , i think i will go right to Water the real way , pump , Rad , block etc, or try Corsair unit , the mount seems much easier on that one ,
> 
> its too bad , the antec looks pretty nice if it had a better track record , if i had to change units at some time , *do you think a thinner Rad would work just as good with a push / pull , instead of a thick Rad. ?
> 
> thinner rad wont need such high pressure fans and if you use them should work even better ? i may be wrong , anyone tried or tested both setups with thin Rad and Thick Rad ?*


I ditched the stock rad just for that reason. Instead I have a Swifttech 120 and a XSPC 240 plumbed into the Antec 920 pump unit. Couldn't be happier.

Dubbed,
Girls with tech is always nice.








Maybe a "Troubleshooting" section to help people out.
And a "Modding" section showing the versatility of the unit and the creativity of our forum buddies.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I ditched the stock rad just for that reason. Instead I have a Swifttech 120 and a XSPC 240 plumbed into the Antec 920 pump unit. Couldn't be happier.
> 
> Dubbed,
> Girls with tech is always nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a "Troubleshooting" section to help people out.
> And a "Modding" section showing the versatility of the unit and the creativity of our forum buddies.


that's a very good point.
If you care to PM me with modding things, that would be cool!









I will do some googling nonetheless!

EDIT:
Speaking of noisy pumps - great guide I came across from Asetek themselves:





EDIT 2:
I'm struggling to think why ANTEC changed the installation process.
It was hard finding videos that were the LATEST installation process.
The old one was very simple, and great for ensuring your paste goes on properly.
It used to be:
-Put bracket on the motherboard
-Twist and turn antec cooler into it

Now, they've not only made it a little more complicated, but a little more annoying to get that paste on the CPU just right:
-Put bracket on the ANTEC cooler device
-Put the plastic O ring to LOCK it into place
-Put the whole antec + bracket unto your motherboard/CPU


----------



## airberg

Did some case modification last night in order to re-mount my 920 to exhaust up instead of from the side of the case. I didn't do the best job cutting out the hole in the top but I'm going to buy a cover plate today so it will cover it up nicely and protect my hand from the sharp edges. I've already noticed a decrease in temps and better cooling.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Right completely re-vamped the OP.
Organised everything, and everything should be quite clear to see.

I will add a lot more (especially an updated spreadsheet), soon enough


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> I ditched the stock rad just for that reason. Instead I have a Swifttech 120 and a XSPC 240 plumbed into the Antec 920 pump unit. Couldn't be happier.
> 
> Dubbed,
> Girls with tech is always nice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe a "Troubleshooting" section to help people out.
> And a "Modding" section showing the versatility of the unit and the creativity of our forum buddies.


I didnt think you were able to remove the hoses from the pump and Rad with out breaking something , so you can remove everything and just use the pump , add your own hoses and Rad ?

if i had to do that , i would just start over with something else unless it was easy enough , i mean if the unit does work , which mines is working fine at the moment , i would just leave it and use it , change paste maybe and delid ,,

i dont think my case has enough room for a larger Rad 240 mm , i picked a mid tower Corsiar 300R , i wanted a smaller one this time, i figured i use one of these coolers and would be fine ,

now it would have been nice to have a larger case to give me more options , i still have my old setup which has a 240 mm Rad, Pump 1/2 inch tubing , but maybe i can use the pump again on here but dont think i be able to fit the Rad even if i wanted it now , too big and thick ,

even the H100 Corsair would be hard in my case , its thinner but would need to add fans which bring it lower into the case , unless of course i add it on the outside of my case with fans inside pushing and fans on top outside pulling , i though of that but i really want to keep everything inside , clean and neat ,

its a good idea for anyone having problems with there unit and cant return it etc, might as well use it for something , before you ditch it completely , i didnt have the Air tramp problem with my unit ,

and i hope i dont ever get it if i have to move it around later on , that would drive me nuts if it made noise other than the normal operation of the pump ,

i would try a thinner Rad if i have to do this over , thinner Rad needs less pressure to cool , with new paste , delid , good fans , i bet it would work out better than the stock antec ,


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Right completely re-vamped the OP.
> Organised everything, and everything should be quite clear to see.
> 
> I will add a lot more (especially an updated spreadsheet), soon enough


Opening Post looks awesome Dubbed! Great work.

@Expresso,
The pump / block on the Antec is really a nice piece of kit.
Lots of people modding the units into full blown water cooling setups.
Here is what I did to mine:
http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/2620#post_18620954

I've since rerouted the tubing a bit to allow for better bleeding of the system.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Opening Post looks awesome Dubbed! Great work.
> 
> @Expresso,
> The pump / block on the Antec is really a nice piece of kit.
> Lots of people modding the units into full blown water cooling setups.
> Here is what I did to mine:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/2620#post_18620954
> 
> I've since rerouted the tubing a bit to allow for better bleeding of the system.


Now that looks sexy!
Why didn't you add some colouring to the liquid though?

I'll add a separate section, as suggested for mods in the OP - was waiting for something to post in the section









If anyone else has mods or wants me to add something in the OP - don't be shy! (as much as I would love put half-naked women in the OP with antecs, it isn't appropriate....or is it?)


----------



## plywood99

Yah the water could use some color.








I recently put Primochill UV Black in but it just looks....meh.








Maybe I should try one of Mayhems products.

The Biostar motherboard in the pictures died and has since been replaced with an Asus Sabertooth 990 r2.

What colors do you think would go well?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Opening Post looks awesome Dubbed! Great work.
> 
> @Expresso,
> The pump / block on the Antec is really a nice piece of kit.
> Lots of people modding the units into full blown water cooling setups.
> Here is what I did to mine:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/2620#post_18620954
> 
> I've since rerouted the tubing a bit to allow for better bleeding of the system.


Very nice







maybe you can put some step by step instructions on how to do this ? would be great , but i dont understand something , the pump is a good unit right ? so we keep that , the back plate is a pain in the ass , i am using the 3770k intel , if i ever did do this i would want to change out the back plate also , what would work for the intel as a back plate ?

you changed the Rad and tubing, so you think the tubing is the bottleneck in this unit ? and the Rad, ? i always though the Rad needed to breath , i see you have it place flat on the bottom of the case and one fan on top , i would think its pushing in the Rad to cool it ?

did you delid this chip - or is delid just for the intel models ?

thanks , looks like its a job to do but worth it in the end if you are having issues with the stock antec,

in my case , i wonder if just changing the paste , delid , backplate and leaving everything else alone would be all i may need if i ever decide to do it , i like to know about it and get ready for it but not ready to do it just yet


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> Very nice
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> maybe you can put some step by step instructions on how to do this ? would be great , but i dont understand something , the pump is a good unit right ? so we keep that , the back plate is a pain in the ass , i am using the 3770k intel , if i ever did do this i would want to change out the back plate also , what would work for the intel as a back plate ?
> 
> you changed the Rad and tubing, so you think the tubing is the bottleneck in this unit ? and the Rad, ? i always though the Rad needed to breath , i see you have it place flat on the bottom of the case and one fan on top , i would think its pushing in the Rad to cool it ?
> 
> did you delid this chip - or is delid just for the intel models ?
> 
> thanks , looks like its a job to do but worth it in the end if you are having issues with the stock antec,
> 
> in my case , i wonder if just changing the paste , delid , backplate and leaving everything else alone would be all i may need if i ever decide to do it , i like to know about it and get ready for it but not ready to do it just yet


To be honest there is no real bottleneck with the 920. It's a great unit in itself. I just wanted to expand it. The pump / block I find to be an amazing value, which is why I kept it in the system.
Chip is not delidded.
Honestly the only real issue I have with these Asetek units is the mounting mechanism. It's a shambles.
For you Expresso, find a decent aftermarket back plate. This will prevent motherboard warping and give you considerably more clamping pressure.
I can't state this enough. You have to actually try it and see the results.
Well, let me back up a bit. I'm not knowledgeable at all on the latest Intel socket, so I don't know if they still ship without a decent backplate or not.
However I do for a fact know that if you don't use a stiff backplate, like Antec... flimsy plastic tripe... You will warp your motherboard. This WILL decrease clamping pressure. Which WILL reduce performance.

The real gem of the 920 is the pump / block unit. With its programmability, and the fact that settings are stored in the pump, no need to keep the Chill Control software running.
It's a gem in the AIC world. Just add onto it and enjoy a nice full blown water cooling setup.

Edit:
I would NOT delid. If you don't mind throwing away a cpu go for it. I did it many times myself back on my 939 platform. But if you want to resell or just for warranty reasons, I would live the IHS intact.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Yah the water could use some color.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently put Primochill UV Black in but it just looks....meh.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe I should try one of Mayhems products.
> 
> The Biostar motherboard in the pictures died and has since been replaced with an Asus Sabertooth 990 r2.
> 
> What colors do you think would go well?


with that motherboard, I would think red would be awesome!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Honestly the only real issue I have with these Asetek units is the mounting mechanism. It's a shambles.
> For you Expresso, find a decent aftermarket back plate. This will prevent motherboard warping and give you considerably more clamping pressure.
> I can't state this enough. You have to actually try it and see the results.
> Well, let me back up a bit. I'm not knowledgeable at all on the latest Intel socket, so I don't know if they still ship without a decent backplate or not.
> However I do for a fact know that if you don't use a stiff backplate, like Antec... flimsy plastic tripe... You will warp your motherboard. This WILL decrease clamping pressure. Which WILL reduce performance.


That was actually my next question - as I saw your post to your system:
What backplate did you use, and where could I find one myself?

I too find the backplate flimsy - the fact that the nuts within the backplate start "rolling" once a certain tightness has been achieved worries me (unless it was done in that way for a certain reason)


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> with that motherboard, I would think red would be awesome!
> That was actually my next question - as I saw your post to your system:
> What backplate did you use, and where could I find one myself?
> 
> I too find the backplate flimsy - the fact that the nuts within the backplate start "rolling" once a certain tightness has been achieved worries me (unless it was done in that way for a certain reason)


Like a UV reactive red or more like a blood red color?

When it comes to colors, fashion that kind of stuff I am the ultimate ******, I have no clue. To me functional is king.









So I appreciate your helping me with this.


----------



## grassh0ppa

Great job cleaning up the OP, Totally Dubbed. A lot more organised than the way I had it. Looks like I chose the right man for the job!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Like a UV reactive red or more like a blood red color?
> 
> When it comes to colors, fashion that kind of stuff I am the ultimate ******, I have no clue. To me functional is king.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So I appreciate your helping me with this.


Well as close as you can get it to that red colour of your motherboard. So more like "blood red" I guess!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grassh0ppa*
> 
> Great job cleaning up the OP, Totally Dubbed. A lot more organised than the way I had it. Looks like I chose the right man for the job!


Thanks man!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Just a note, most "UV Red" tubing comes out pinkish or orange-ish. No company has yet to make a true deep red UV


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Just a note, most "UV Red" tubing comes out pinkish or orange-ish. No company has yet to make a true deep red UV


I did see TastyPC's overview of a UV red - and that was my exact thought -> looked pink
On another note (that lady is HOT!)

Here is the video!




EDIT:
stickg1 - satisfied







?


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well as close as you can get it to that red colour of your motherboard. So more like "blood red" I guess!


Well thats the thing. :/
The ASUS mobo has more of a military greenish tint to it. And I'm like @[email protected]
No clue what color to go with for the loop.


----------



## plywood99

Ahh tasty PC <3
That gal is HAWT!!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Well thats the thing. :/
> The ASUS mobo has more of a military greenish tint to it. And I'm like @[email protected]
> No clue what color to go with for the loop.


really?
Didn't look like it from the pictures!
Looked like the normal circuit colour (apart from green) - ie this look

If it were me, I would go for red - just because of those red parts on your motherboard:



EDIT:
You COULD even get some red-led fans - or some RGB strips - seeing as you got the windows, unlike my pc, that would be pretty cool too!


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> really?
> Didn't look like it from the pictures!
> Looked like the normal circuit colour (apart from green) - ie this look
> 
> If it were me, I would go for red - just because of those red parts on your motherboard:
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> You COULD even get some red-led fans - or some RGB strips - seeing as you got the windows, unlike my pc, that would be pretty cool too!


The pictures are of my old Biostar mobo. Since then I've rerouted tubing and changed mobo to an ASUS 990FX Sabertooth R2.
It has a very Militaristic color to it. Subdued greens and darker olive shades. Fantastic mobo but very hard to match colors with.









I'll post some new pictures soon.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> To be honest there is no real bottleneck with the 920. It's a great unit in itself. I just wanted to expand it. The pump / block I find to be an amazing value, which is why I kept it in the system.
> Chip is not delidded.
> Honestly the only real issue I have with these Asetek units is the mounting mechanism. It's a shambles.
> For you Expresso, find a decent aftermarket back plate. This will prevent motherboard warping and give you considerably more clamping pressure.
> I can't state this enough. You have to actually try it and see the results.
> Well, let me back up a bit. I'm not knowledgeable at all on the latest Intel socket, so I don't know if they still ship without a decent backplate or not.
> However I do for a fact know that if you don't use a stiff backplate, like Antec... flimsy plastic tripe... You will warp your motherboard. This WILL decrease clamping pressure. Which WILL reduce performance.
> 
> The real gem of the 920 is the pump / block unit. With its programmability, and the fact that settings are stored in the pump, no need to keep the Chill Control software running.
> It's a gem in the AIC world. Just add onto it and enjoy a nice full blown water cooling setup.
> 
> Edit:
> I would NOT delid. If you don't mind throwing away a cpu go for it. I did it many times myself back on my 939 platform. But if you want to resell or just for warranty reasons, I would live the IHS intact.


thanks , i have to say for me with this second unit i am using now , first i did a RMA , its working pretty decent overall , if i knew before hand about the back plate etc, i would have used gotten the parts i needed and used them with out even using the stock antec unit , but now its all done , i hate to have to remove that again at this moment , down the line maybe but i first need to find the right part that will work and get all the parts needed first , i dont want to take it apart to find out something i am missing or not correct just to have to put the stock back on ,,

also which was a pain to remove was the sticky tape which comes with the stock back plate , i had to remove that once already from the first unit , i am not looking to do that again unless i see my temps get worse for what ever reason , then i would take it apart to give it a shot ,, about the delid ,, looks pretty simple but i understand its a gamble , and with my luck i would end up killing it ,

i see later on if i can get the right parts needed for sure from someone with the same board chip etc, who has changed it out already , then i may give it a shot in the near future and just do the backplate , and new paste with out delid to see how much a difference that makes ,, turns out i lowered my temps some during normal usage and while idle with some change in my settings

my temps are about even with my liquid temps now during idle and normal usage , with a custom quiet setting , to be honest with my luck something will go wrong , too soon to take it apart again
its running very nice now to disturb it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> The pictures are of my old Biostar mobo. Since then I've rerouted tubing and changed mobo to an ASUS 990FX Sabertooth R2.
> It has a very Militaristic color to it. Subdued greens and darker olive shades. Fantastic mobo but very hard to match colors with.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post some new pictures soon.


ah ha!
googled it...hmm that's extremely hard to match - I don't know if they do a brown-ish dye.

You could go for something like bright green, black or white.


----------



## crappy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Opening Post looks awesome Dubbed! Great work.
> 
> @Expresso,
> The pump / block on the Antec is really a nice piece of kit.
> Lots of people modding the units into full blown water cooling setups.
> Here is what I did to mine:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/2620#post_18620954
> 
> I've since rerouted the tubing a bit to allow for better bleeding of the system.


mate that is awesome! I thought just plumbing in the nb in my striker 2 was pretty ballsy, but that is some seriously fine work


----------



## jackalopeater

Here is my 620 tucked in my Prodigy case with push/pull Cooler Master Sickleflow 120's.
Thinking about changing the fans to Corsair SP120, anyone think it's worth the hassle?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jackalopeater*
> 
> 
> 
> Here is my 620 tucked in my Prodigy case with push/pull Cooler Master Sickleflow 120's.
> Thinking about changing the fans to Corsair SP120, anyone think it's worth the hassle?


If you check out the video in the OP, by me - it might give you a better idea of the SP120's. Can't comment on your current fans though.


----------



## stickg1

I've had those sickleflows and now I have the SP120 High Performance. You might get a 2-3C drop in temps. If you can get the SP120's for cheap I say its worth it.

TD, you watching this game? Why is RVP so awesome?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I've had those sickleflows and now I have the SP120 High Performance. You might get a 2-3C drop in temps. If you can get the SP120's for cheap I say its worth it.
> 
> TD, you watching this game? Why is RVP so awesome?


What about noise wise though?

As for the game - yeah I'm utterly disappointed in united's performance.
I know it is a hard game and in hard conditions...but this is just crap.

Yeah RVP scored a good header, but I also watched the Arsenal game from 50mins on-wards, and they were a joy to watch. Chelsea sucked when I started watching them lol.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What about noise wise though?
> 
> As for the game - yeah I'm utterly disappointed in united's performance.
> I know it is a hard game and in hard conditions...but this is just crap.
> 
> Yeah RVP scored a good header, but I also watched the Arsenal game from 50mins on-wards, and they were a joy to watch. Chelsea sucked when I started watching them lol.


The SP120 High's are little louder but still drowned out compared to any GPU I have used so not a huge concern to me.

We look kind of sloppy but it is snowing. We have countered well but we need to do better in the 2nd half to maintain our lead.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> The SP120 High's are little louder but still drowned out compared to any GPU I have used so not a huge concern to me.
> 
> We look kind of sloppy but it is snowing. We have countered well but we need to do better in the 2nd half to maintain our lead.


If De Gea isn't man of the man, I don't know who will be.
EDIT:
Knew it...utterly useless united play.

As for the SP's - well my quiet editions are super quiet, and I can't even hear them.
End of the day - it matters about the STATIC pressure they can output, and the lowest noise level possible.


----------



## expresso

Can anyone tell me what excatly i would need in parts etc, if i wanted to change how the 920 cooler mounts ?

i seen some users here change out the backplate , use screws and nuts to tighten it down etc, i may be looking to change out the paste on the cooler and if i do that , i like to make the same changes that others have done here to mount it down better , tighter and easier ,

if someone who done it can give me details on what parts i would need , which backplate to use - what size screws or bolts - wignuts etc, what ever is needed , and how its done so when i decide to do it i will have everything i need

last time i changed the backplate it was a pain to remove that sticky tape glue that comes with it ,, would it be ok to use the same backplate , just remove those little things which the screws hook it up and replace that with longer screws with a nut on top to clamp it down ?

would make it easier to do if i didnt have to remove that backplate again ,

also how do the screws , nuts etc, lock in place once tighten down ? and how do you have the screws stay still while or snug in place as you screw the unit down once installed ?

for example in the backplate , those stay put , but if i change them and use screws how would they stay put when i put the case on its back to mount the cooler flat down to tighten it in the end ?

what would keep those screws in the backplate from moving as i screw the cooler down ?

thanks - i think i try this first before thinking of delid , safer and easier


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> i did not need the antec backplate, the antec fastening screws worked fine in the rampage iv x socket. I heard the anteck backplate is fine but just don't use the adheasive strips.
> 
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/hebaso11.html
> genercis are around


about the stock antec back plate , you suggest not to use the sticky tape , but if you dont use that tape , it would touch the back of the board where they are some transistors or something there ,

would that be ok if it touched them , most likely some pressure when you screw it down , i have used the stick tape because it seemed its there for that purpose to fill the gap and not make the back plate touch those items , but i may be wrong ,

so would it be safe to not use the sticky tape again if i change out the plate at some time in the future ?


----------



## Maximization

during pre build research i viewed this.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VumUI0Fqiuc

in comments statements were made when you need to replace the back plate it makes it very difficult to remove. It did not apply to me anyway in the end. I did not need the back plate.


----------



## M3TAl

They are extremely difficult to remove, so difficult that the adhesive strips are still on my old mobo. Felt like I almost broke my mobo in half and also the backplate haha. And I did heat it up with a hair dryer before removing.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They are extremely difficult to remove, so difficult that the adhesive strips are still on my old mobo. Felt like I almost broke my mobo in half and also the backplate haha. And I did heat it up with a hair dryer before removing.


i managed to get them off the first time , i used that goof off stuff - kept applying it with a Q tip - let it sit a moment and try to wiggle it off , keep going that for a while before i finally got it off ,

i dont want to go thru that again if i can help it , but if i have to , i would not want to put it back , i wish i never did knowing from the first time how hard it was to remove , i didnt think i would want to remove it anytime soon so i put it again ,

but if i do end up removing it and dont want to put it back , would it work just as good if you dont put the sticky tape back ? or do you need to put something there to fill the gap

i know some users here put screws and wingnut etc, do you know if you need to use a spring in between so you can feel the pressure as you tighten it down ?

like when you mount some water blocks , on my old black it was so simple - long screw with sgrings and screw on top you can turn and feel the pressure getting harder with the spring tension etc,

trying to figure out a way to remount it better when i change out the paste ,


----------



## Maximization

my understanding was the sticky tape is just to hold the bracket in position for mounting. They serve no other purpose. If you have a friend to help you they can hold the plate while you mount.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> my understanding was the sticky tape is just to hold the bracket in position for mounting. They serve no other purpose. If you have a friend to help you they can hold the plate while you mount.


i have to see if i can leave it there and just put screws instead and mount it harder down , might improve cooling , i hope anyway ,

i have to figure out what size screw , how long i need it etc, before i start anything , i want to get all the parts in order


----------



## grunion

I decided to move my 620 to a front mount position, we'll see how it does.
I had to move my SSDs to the back side of the mobo tray to make room.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Grunion:

A lot of people have reported good results with it in the front. Just due to air flow.
The antec benefits from natural air flow hitting it.


----------



## Phoenixlight

I'm going to be upgrading to an i7-3770K soon and I was wondering if I needed to remove then re-apply the thermal paste on the Kuhler 620 or not? I remember when I first installed it onto my i5-2500 there was already some on the contact plate, is it designed to be used with more than 1 CPU? If it is great, if it's not can someone tell me how to remove it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoenixlight*
> 
> I'm going to be upgrading to an i7-3770K soon and I was wondering if I needed to remove then re-apply the thermal paste on the Kuhler 620 or not? I remember when I first installed it onto my i5-2500 there was already some on the contact plate, is it designed to be used with more than 1 CPU? If it is great, if it's not can someone tell me how to remove it?


As soon as you use it once, like any paste, you should re-apply and clean it.
So clean off the paste on both surfaces, get yourself some better paste, and apply it on your new processor.

Be warned with IVY bridge and the temps -> don't be shocked


----------



## Phoenixlight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As soon as you use it once, like any paste, you should re-apply and clean it.
> So clean off the paste on both surfaces, get yourself some better paste, and apply it on your new processor.
> 
> Be warned with IVY bridge and the temps -> don't be shocked


I've never had to remove thermal paste before what specifically do I need to use and do you have any recommendations for new paste to buy?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoenixlight*
> 
> I've never had to remove thermal paste before what specifically do I need to use and do you have any recommendations for new paste to buy?


any paste really - like the arctic MX4 for example would be a good cheap bet









As for changing paste - it is vital to do that...as your old one won't be that in-tact any more - do me a favour and take a pic of it, when you remove it.

Min was almost non-existent on my CPU...


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> any paste really - like the arctic MX4 for example would be a good cheap bet
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for changing paste - it is vital to do that...as your old one won't be that in-tact any more - do me a favour and take a pic of it, when you remove it.
> 
> Min was almost non-existent on my CPU...


i may end up changing out the paste also , i sent you a link a few posts back, i have the Artic silver 5 ,

would that be ok to use ? i really dont want to buy so many kinds and never use them ,

this would be just on the cooler , not delid ,

i am still trying to get my system stable with the power saving features but i dont seem to be able to get it working ,

would you have any template settings for 4.7 with power saving feature even at fixed Vcore, and with Offset ,

just something to start with , with my fixed Vcore , 4.7 and disable power features ,, its fine, other than that , not stable unless i leave this way ,

thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah, as I said before AS5 on the the IHS is fine and good


----------



## InsideJob

Antec Kuhler 620 cooling an AMD Phenom x4 960T folding at 100% load sitting at 28°c on the socket








Only with the wonder of all natural Canadian cooling







Also got my MSI 970A-G46 vrm's to -5°c on air


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Antec Kuhler 620 cooling an AMD Phenom x4 960T folding at 100% load sitting at 28°c on the socket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only with the wonder of all natural Canadian cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got my MSI 970A-G46 vrm's to -5°c on air


haha nice one man!

PS. can anyone help me with the spreadsheet for the members list?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoenixlight*
> 
> I've never had to remove thermal paste before *what specifically do I need to use* and do you have any recommendations for new paste to buy?


You can use Isopropyl alcohol (70% or higher, 90% recommended) as I do and many others. Use some paper towel to remove excess paste and start rubbin cpu and 620 clean with alcohol, maybe finish them off with a lint free cloth.


----------



## nukedathlonman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> Antec Kuhler 620 cooling an AMD Phenom x4 960T folding at 100% load sitting at 28°c on the socket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Only with the wonder of all natural Canadian cooling
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also got my MSI 970A-G46 vrm's to -5°c on air


Nice job!!!


----------



## dezmick

I am wanting to know if i should use two Corsair SP120 in push-pull on a 920 in a Silverstone FT02 case, or should i use a different fan for the top exhaust like maybe an AF120. Thanks: Mick


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> I am wanting to know if i should use two Corsair SP120 in push-pull on a 920 in a Silverstone FT02 case, or should i use a different fan for the top exhaust like maybe an AF120. Thanks: Mick


As replied in - in case people want to see it:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Hi there,

Well static pressure is needed to blow into it - but to blow out, as well you need something pulling it.
SO I suggest 2x SP120's - even though they work better in a push push configuration.

I have it as blowing in, and the other blowing out - thus push/pull config.


----------



## kevindd992002

Techincally, it should be "sucking" out


----------



## kevindd992002

Techincally, it should be "sucking" out


----------



## tylergbass

Its been 2 weeks since I've contacted Antec Support about my Pump noise and they have yet to respond. This seems pretty ridiculous considering I've heard they have good customer service.


----------



## tylergbass

Its been 2 weeks since I've contacted Antec Support about my Pump noise and they have yet to respond. This seems pretty ridiculous considering I've heard they have good customer service.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tylergbass*
> 
> Its been 2 weeks since I've contacted Antec Support about my Pump noise and they have yet to respond. This seems pretty ridiculous considering I've heard they have good customer service.


Sorry to hear that - Can't you go via the reseller instead?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tylergbass*
> 
> Its been 2 weeks since I've contacted Antec Support about my Pump noise and they have yet to respond. This seems pretty ridiculous considering I've heard they have good customer service.


did you email them or just leave a message ?

i had to contact them a few times with my first unit , i always called , had to wait but talked to someone

i had the time to call and wait , most dont and they should get back to you in a few days at least ,

i like this unit but if i had to do it over , i might not get it again , maybe the new Corsair looks nice and comes with the software control now ,

it didnt before and was one reason i didnt get it ,


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Forget corsair check out the h220


----------



## M3TAl

Ya, Swiftech H220 will definitely be my next AIO cooler but I'm not in the market for one until six months to a year from now







.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Really? I thought it was coming out sooner


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya, Swiftech H220 will definitely be my next AIO cooler but I'm not in the market for one until six months to a year from now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


On the Swiftech website it says ETA is end of February. Although they did not specify if it is February 2013 or what lol.


----------



## M3TAl

No it is coming out this February and pre-orders in USA and Canada are going on right now. I'm saying that I won't be in the market to buy one for around a year or less.


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> No it is coming out this February and pre-orders in USA and Canada are going on right now. I'm saying that I won't be in the market to buy one for around a year or less.


http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RayStorm-750-RS240-WaterCooling-Kit-pr-5030.html

this is also another option , not sure if its better or worse , but seems like you have it all , price is a bit more but not by much i think


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RayStorm-750-RS240-WaterCooling-Kit-pr-5030.html
> 
> this is also another option , not sure if its better or worse , but seems like you have it all , price is a bit more but not by much i think


Put it this way - with THAT pump, it's even a choice that pro watercooler people would love to have. That's the beauty of it - flexibility. Something we Don't have with the Antec and Corsair.
That's what the game changing thing is here.
Not to mention the competitive price and the performance (both cooling and noise)

Anyway - doesn't matter as I won't be getting one - but thought it was cool nonetheless!


----------



## tdrloux

Hi,

Some pics about my temperatures using antec kuhler 920:
i5 3570k (boost disabled, 3,4ghz)
GA-H61M-D2P-B3
XFX 750W
OCZ VERTEX 4 128GB
WD CAVIAR GREEN 1TB
cougar solution case











temperatures after intel burn test in high (2048 ram)
I was using custom fan mode during the test, starting at 40 as you can see.



As you can see my antec software is stranger, smaller... How I can fix it?

*I didnt like this temps, how do I get better temps at 3.4 ghz?*


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> *I didnt like this temps, how do I get better temps at 3.4 ghz?*


Temps seem fine - however I would be inclined to change your ramp speeds etc.
IBT will push your temps quite a lot.
As for my temps - I'm at 85c-90c on IBT @4.5ghz with 1.265v


----------



## tdrloux

thank you!

Well, during the test the liquid temperature still 37 C, what should I do to get better temps?
Sorry, first watercooler :/


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> http://www.jab-tech.com/XSPC-RayStorm-750-RS240-WaterCooling-Kit-pr-5030.html
> 
> this is also another option , not sure if its better or worse , but seems like you have it all , price is a bit more but not by much i think


I've never done custom water cooling so I'm no expert. But Gabe Rouchon (Swiftech CEO) stated on another forum that the pump in those Rasa kits are like aquarium style pumps and don't offer much flow... Meaning expandibility with those kits is pretty bad. I guess the pump can't handle more blocks well. Then again I've never personally used one so take what I say with a grain of salt.

The H220 does come pre-filled (no work involved) and a 3 year warranty so that's good and if you want to expand it then by all means you can (the pump can handle it no problem).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> thank you!
> 
> Well, during the test the liquid temperature still 37 C, what should I do to get better temps?
> Sorry, first watercooler :/


37c is normal if you are loading it like that bro.
I wouldn't worry about those temps personally.

IVY BRIDGE gets ridiculously hot.


----------



## kevindd992002

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya, Swiftech H220 will definitely be my next AIO cooler but I'm not in the market for one until six months to a year from now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Really? I thought it was coming out sooner


M3TAI actually said he is not in the market for his next AIO cooler, he did not say that the H220 is coming out six months to a year from now


----------



## WarDad

The FHP141 140mm x 38mm monster fan was just installed on my CLC. The TT Water2.0-Pro rads is like the H20 920. My review is here:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/3250#post_19130213


----------



## Boffinboy

Hi All, I have an antec kuhler 920 - works great, however I am finding that the Antec CC software is closed every time my computer sleeps and I wake it up. I then have to manually start the software.

I am assuming it is some kind of power saving that is turning off the usb link, but I am not sure. I have disabled the power saving on all usb devices in device manager, and also ithe 'selective suspend' n the general windows power settings but it still seems to happen! I couldn't find anything in the BIOS on my machine that would seem to cause it (Asus z77 pro). Does anyone have any suggestions?

Boffinboy


----------



## tdrloux

I did another test, now with the cooler curve in 35 to 45.
Turbo boost activaded.
Intel burn in test high (2048)
i5 3570k


71ºC









Liquid temperature almost 40ºC during the test.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boffinboy*
> 
> Hi All, I have an antec kuhler 920 - works great, however I am finding that the Antec CC software is closed every time my computer sleeps and I wake it up. I then have to manually start the software.
> 
> I am assuming it is some kind of power saving that is turning off the usb link, but I am not sure. I have disabled the power saving on all usb devices in device manager, and also ithe 'selective suspend' n the general windows power settings but it still seems to happen! I couldn't find anything in the BIOS on my machine that would seem to cause it (Asus z77 pro). Does anyone have any suggestions?
> 
> Boffinboy


Only thing I can think of is the settings within the CC software itself - have you checked the settings of "start when windows starts"?
Apart from that no idea.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> I did another test, now with the cooler curve in 35 to 45.
> Turbo boost activaded.
> Intel burn in test high (2048)
> i5 3570k
> 
> 
> 71ºC
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Liquid temperature almost 40ºC during the test.


Personally, i wouldn't worry about your liquid temps - by that I mean 40c whilst on IBT is around normal (maybe around 3c more than me) - maybe your ambient is a little warm (your min value is 40-32c, whilst mine is 26-35c)?
And with the installation - have you ensured it is tightly on?

What voltage is the stock CPU running at?


----------



## tdrloux

Ambient temperatures is around 30ºC today (summer :/ )

"have you ensured it is tightly on?"
yes

about the voltage, core temp indicates 1.2360 v.


----------



## Boffinboy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Only thing I can think of is the settings within the CC software itself - have you checked the settings of "start when windows starts"?
> Apart from that no idea.


Unfortunately that's not it, had already checked that :/


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Ambient temperatures is around 30ºC today (summer :/ )
> 
> "have you ensured it is tightly on?"
> yes
> 
> about the voltage, core temp indicates 1.2360 v.


Voltage is good. Ambient is probably what makes it a little higher.
What are your fans RPM at when they ramp and full?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Boffinboy*
> 
> Unfortunately that's not it, had already checked that :/


Dam sorry man - no idea.


----------



## tdrloux

the ramp start at 35 and full at 45


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> the ramp start at 35 and full at 45


Yes but what is their actual RPM via the antec software?


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yes but what is their actual RPM via the antec software?


In idle it still around 1000 rpm, i5 3570k still around 41ºC.
During the intel burn in test the fan get 1500 rpm, and the processor a max of 71ºC.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> In idle it still around 1000 rpm, i5 3570k still around 41ºC.
> During the intel burn in test the fan get 1500 rpm, and the processor a max of 71ºC.


Hmmm where are they plugged in?
And these are the stock antecs?
As usually they would ramp to around 2k on load and stay 600-800rpm on idle


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hmmm where are they plugged in?
> And these are the stock antecs?
> As usually they would ramp to around 2k on load and stay 600-800rpm on idle


They are plugged in the block.
Stock antec coolers.
I will test again with prime95 and cpu-z


----------



## tdrloux

i5 3570k stock (boost on)
Fan ramp start - 35ºC
Full fan ramp - 45ºC
Ambient - 30ºC

prime 95:


intel burn test:


CPU-Z shows the real core voltage.
Intel burn stress strong than prime95.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I think those temps are fine mate


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I think those temps are fine mate


Nice, i wil try to put more fans on my case next week


----------



## M3TAl

Is your rad intaking air from outside the case or exhausting outside the case? Play around with rad positions can gain you a 2-3C sometimes.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Is your rad intaking air from outside the case or exhausting outside the case? Play around with rad positions can gain you a 2-3C sometimes.


The antec system is exhausting the air, my case is open.


----------



## tdrloux

It's normal the i5 3570k keep changing the clock around 3.6 in idle?
look:



Total idle system, and the clock still 3.6 ghz.

I want to undervolt, my actual voltage is 1.044v (stock)
My bios have some options to undervolt, what should I change?



Dinamic Vcore?
QPI/Vtt voltage?

Where i can undervolt?


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> In idle it still around 1000 rpm, i5 3570k still around 41ºC.
> During the intel burn in test the fan get 1500 rpm, and the processor a max of 71ºC.


That seems quite high... I only get a 20 degree difference between the CPU and water temp. Prime95 my temps are 60 / 40 and ramp speeds is 25-45. I suggest not using the pre applied thermal paste and recommend using the pea method. I had about a 10 degree drop once I used my own thermal paste.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> i5 3570k stock (boost on)
> Fan ramp start - 35ºC
> Full fan ramp - 45ºC
> Ambient - 30ºC
> 
> prime 95:
> 
> 
> intel burn test:
> 
> 
> CPU-Z shows the real core voltage.
> Intel burn stress strong than prime95.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> That seems quite high... I only get a 20 degree difference between the CPU and water temp. Prime95 my temps are 60 / 40 and ramp speeds is 25-45. I suggest not using the pre applied thermal paste and recommend using the pea method. I had about a 10 degree drop once I used my own thermal paste.


I am using MX-4 thermal paste.

On prime95 temperature still 60ºC too as you can see in pics above









News: Now with ambient at 23ºC, I did a test with prime95, 30 minutes, temperatures estabilished at 55ºC


----------



## BranField

ive had my 920 for a while now on a fx-8150. nice guide by the way. when i was screwing the fan onto the rad i didnt think it was getting very tight (like mentioned before) so i gave it a bit more of a twist and have subsequently dethredded the hole so the screw can now just pull straight out but its working fine with no vibrations

However im not a fan of how much this cooler blocks the vrm's and hangs over the cpu socket. i think its reducing the airflow to the vrm's a lot.

also i cant seem to get my 8150 over 4.2 without massive heat gains


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> They are plugged in the block.
> Stock antec coolers.
> I will test again with prime95 and cpu-z


Your 920 is under performing. You have a 77w chip with no OC. Your fans aren't hitting antec spec: 700 - 2400 RPM (PWM controlled) 110.0 CFM.
Can the fans get above 2200 RPM on Extreme setting? Is your pump speed near the top of it's scale? Mine is always around 2880 RPM.
Is the unit plugged into a Throttled Down or damaged mother board CPU fan header? Mine is dammaged now, I use an adaptor to power the 920 from 4 pin molex, and it has a 3 pin fan tach connector for the motherboard. Try powering it from a 12v molex by using an adaptor. You may have to shut off the motherboards CPU fan alert, or simply fool it by pugging a different fan in there.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> It's normal the i5 3570k keep changing the clock around 3.6 in idle?
> look:
> Where i can undervolt?


UNDERVOLT?
I would leave it on AUTO if you aren't OC'ing.
However, if you got OFFSET option that might be better.

Regardless of what I said above however, i would go into your windows power options and modify the power settings.
ie. go to balanced, and you should see the CPU downloading from 3.6ghz to 1.6ghz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> That seems quite high... I only get a 20 degree difference between the CPU and water temp. Prime95 my temps are 60 / 40 and ramp speeds is 25-45. I suggest not using the pre applied thermal paste and recommend using the pea method. I had about a 10 degree drop once I used my own thermal paste.


Not that high - I can get 40c liquid temps and 90c CPU temps.
All depends on the voltage really.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> ive had my 920 for a while now on a fx-8150. nice guide by the way. when i was screwing the fan onto the rad i didnt think it was getting very tight (like mentioned before) so i gave it a bit more of a twist and have subsequently dethredded the hole so the screw can now just pull straight out but its working fine with no vibrations
> 
> However im not a fan of how much this cooler blocks the vrm's and hangs over the cpu socket. i think its reducing the airflow to the vrm's a lot.
> 
> also i cant seem to get my 8150 over 4.2 without massive heat gains


Glad the guide could come of help - and yes the de-threading of the backplate I know exactly what you mean - that's the problem with having a silly plastic plate that antec provided us with.
If it was metal, we wouldn't have a single problem.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> Your 920 is under performing. You have a 77w chip with no OC. Your fans aren't hitting antec spec: 700 - 2400 RPM (PWM controlled) 110.0 CFM.
> Can the fans get above 2200 RPM on Extreme setting? Is your pump speed near the top of it's scale? Mine is always around 2880 RPM.
> Is the unit plugged into a Throttled Down or damaged mother board CPU fan header? Mine is dammaged now, I use an adaptor to power the 920 from 4 pin molex, and it has a 3 pin fan tach connector for the motherboard. Try powering it from a 12v molex by using an adaptor. You may have to shut off the motherboards CPU fan alert, or simply fool it by pugging a different fan in there.


That's good advice right there.
Yeah on extreme the fans should RAMP to 2.4k


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> Your 920 is under performing. You have a 77w chip with no OC. Your fans aren't hitting antec spec: 700 - 2400 RPM (PWM controlled) 110.0 CFM.
> Can the fans get above 2200 RPM on Extreme setting? Is your pump speed near the top of it's scale? Mine is always around 2880 RPM.
> Is the unit plugged into a Throttled Down or damaged mother board CPU fan header? Mine is dammaged now, I use an adaptor to power the 920 from 4 pin molex, and it has a 3 pin fan tach connector for the motherboard. Try powering it from a 12v molex by using an adaptor. You may have to shut off the motherboards CPU fan alert, or simply fool it by pugging a different fan in there.


In extreme mode fans get 2580 rpm.
Pump speed is around 2950 rpm.

Today ambient temperature is better. I will do some tests.
Idle liquid temperature : 33ºC
Yesterday liquid temperature was 37ºC.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> UNDERVOLT?
> I would leave it on AUTO if you aren't OC'ing.
> However, if you got OFFSET option that might be better.
> 
> Regardless of what I said above however, i would go into your windows power options and modify the power settings.
> ie. go to balanced, and you should see the CPU downloading from 3.6ghz to 1.6ghz
> Not that high - I can get 40c liquid temps and 90c CPU temps.
> All depends on the voltage really.
> Glad the guide could come of help - and yes the de-threading of the backplate I know exactly what you mean - that's the problem with having a silly plastic plate that antec provided us with.
> If it was metal, we wouldn't have a single problem.
> That's good advice right there.
> Yeah on extreme the fans should RAMP to 2.4k


Thank you, I changed to balanced settings


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Pleasure mate


----------



## BranField

just a quick question. can anyone point me in the direction of a decent sabertooth 990fx overclocking guide as im sure i should be able to get more out of my chip than 4.2 with this kuhler.


----------



## tdrloux

start ramp 30ºC
end ramp 40ºC

i5 3570k turbo boost off, 3.4 ghz


temps estabilished at 49 ºC


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> start ramp 30ºC
> end ramp 40ºC
> 
> i5 3570k turbo boost off, 3.4 ghz
> 
> 
> temps estabilished at 49 ºC


Told you your temps were fine and it was down to ambient









Out of interest though, why is your turbo off?


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> In extreme mode fans get 2580 rpm.
> Pump speed is around 2950 rpm.
> 
> Today ambient temperature is better. I will do some tests.
> Idle liquid temperature : 33ºC
> Yesterday liquid temperature was 37ºC.


Ok, we can rule out electrical problems.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Told you your temps were fine and it was down to ambient
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Out of interest though, why is your turbo off?


Because I dont need it, actually I dont have video card to play nice games...
Using HD 4000 I play league of legends in very low quality, 1920x1080p, and it gets 60 fps, but sometimes delay, down to 30 fps, return to 60. I am very disapointed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Because I dont need it, actually I dont have video card to play nice games...
> Using HD 4000 I play league of legends in very low quality, 1920x1080p, and it gets 60 fps, but sometimes delay, down to 30 fps, return to 60. I am very disapointed.


Well if you enable turbo, you might get some better performances overall. But that's up to you of course


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well if you enable turbo, you might get some better performances overall. But that's up to you of course


Actually I just play league of legends or browser, anything above 2.5 Ghz is useless...


----------



## Falmod

Ordered my Kuhler 620 Yesterday, Should be here by Tues. Cant wait


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Actually I just play league of legends or browser, anything above 2.5 Ghz is useless...


I would disagree - but hey








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Ordered my Kuhler 620 Yesterday, Should be here by Tues. Cant wait


Nice enjoy!


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nice enjoy!


Im sure I will. Its going to perform better than my stock AMD one thats for sure xD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Im sure I will. Its going to perform better than my stock AMD one thats for sure xD


haha indeed (one would hope







)


----------



## tdrloux

An example, i7 3770k 2.5 ghz have the same performance as 4.0 ghz in max payne 3.
For general use, 2.5 ghz is perfect.


----------



## M3TAl

Sounds like a GPU bottleneck to me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> 
> 
> An example, i7 3770k 2.5 ghz have the same performance as 4.0 ghz in max payne 3.
> For general use, 2.5 ghz is perfect.


sure - you don't need more than a dual core gaming-but for general use....


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sounds like a GPU bottleneck to me.


I dont have a video card


----------



## chillidog

as a owner of a antec kuhler 920 i would have to say its a great product it does the job down to the bone it is their with the h80/h90 or even better.
if your already a owner or being a new owner of the 920 you might see something missing on the sound level of the control panal their is no display of numbers showing db.
i have contacted antec about this and they told me to unistall the software using an registry cleaner and then reinstall,this did not work for me then they told me that the product had to be rma as it seems that their a problem with the controller chip
i turn a blind eye to this(can't be arse with all the returning and the hassle dismantling and then the wait) i left it how it is and till date no problems the db display missing i now can live with as we got the green bar that tell you anyway.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> sure - you don't need more than a dual core gaming-but for general use....


That depends on what game we're talking about and games become more multi-threaded every year.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> as a owner of a antec kuhler 920 i would have to say its a great product it does the job down to the bone it is their with the h80/h90 or even better.
> if your already a owner or being a new owner of the 920 you might see something missing on the sound level of the control panal their is no display of numbers showing db.
> i have contacted antec about this and they told me to unistall the software using an registry cleaner and then reinstall,this did not work for me then they told me that the product had to be rma as it seems that their a problem with the controller chip
> i turn a blind eye to this(can't be arse with all the returning and the hassle dismantling and then the wait) i left it how it is and till date no problems the db display missing i now can live with as we got the green bar that tell you anyway.


Look at my antec software:


I dont know how to fix it :/


----------



## airberg

Fry's Electronics is having a sale on the 920! After mail in rebate it's only $68!!! It will only be at this price through Thursday, Jan 31.

http://www.frys.com/product/6686224?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> as a owner of a antec kuhler 920 i would have to say its a great product it does the job down to the bone it is their with the h80/h90 or even better.
> if your already a owner or being a new owner of the 920 you might see something missing on the sound level of the control panal their is no display of numbers showing db.
> i have contacted antec about this and they told me to unistall the software using an registry cleaner and then reinstall,this did not work for me then they told me that the product had to be rma as it seems that their a problem with the controller chip
> i turn a blind eye to this(can't be arse with all the returning and the hassle dismantling and then the wait) i left it how it is and till date no problems the db display missing i now can live with as we got the green bar that tell you anyway.


I noticed that on day 1. I tried checking if they had a download on their website and nope... figured they should have the software there but seems odd that they do not... I don't even think they can accurately measure the noise level coming from this without something that can truly measure sound, and what difference would it make knowing how loud it is, Antec?? If I can hear my fans ramping up, I know its loud.. especially on extreme.


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Look at my antec software:
> 
> 
> I dont know how to fix it :/


wow dude... ***. uninstall and re-install maybe?


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> wow dude... ***. uninstall and re-install maybe?


really?? it **** out w. t. f. ???


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> wow dude... ***. uninstall and re-install maybe?


I tried, but didnt work. I am very dissapointed. This software was dowloaded from antec site, because my cd was damaged :/


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *airberg*
> 
> Fry's Electronics is having a sale on the 920! After mail in rebate it's only $68!!! It will only be at this price through Thursday, Jan 31.
> 
> http://www.frys.com/product/6686224?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG


upgraded version comming out soon


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> upgraded version comming out soon


If it's not expandable it's a fail release. These AIO units are going to become obsolete for the most part except to budget builders since the release of all these new expandable units. The Swiftech unit at the top of the list in my books. Comes packaged in the box more complete then these units even, the fans are already on the rad!







For around the same price as say the Kraken x60, there's no question which is the better buy.


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> If it's not expandable it's a fail release. These AIO units are going to become obsolete for the most part except to budget builders since the release of all these new expandable units. The Swiftech unit at the top of the list in my books. Comes packaged in the box more complete then these units even, the fans are already on the rad!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> For around the same price as say the Kraken x60, there's no question which is the better buy.


For me, the big issue is maintenance. I don't want to tear done my rig every year and flush/clean it. Like wise for concerns over silver coils, algecide, antifreeze, corrosion inhibiters etc. I als want a sealed unit that can be shipped while filled.


----------



## InsideJob

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> For me, the big issue is maintenance. I don't want to tear done my rig every year and flush/clean it. Like wise for concerns over silver coils, algecide, antifreeze, corrosion inhibiters etc. I als want a sealed unit that can be shipped while filled.


Okay... except to budget builders and a small focused market with specific needs







That better?

I also don't see the lifespan of these older units being much longer then a year, that's something I've never taken a look at








Wonder the longest lifespan possible with one of these units... You mention maintenance which makes me think the fact that you can't clean the interior of these units (without at least needing new fluid to refill it) dramatically decreases the lifespan of them when compared to an easier to clean custom or expandable loop. I'd almost just suggest sticking to air coolers in situations like you describe. I noticed my old 212 evo performed equal to my 620 for $15 less.


----------



## Maximization

Lifespan is a great question there is no data available. The moment i start hearing of failures then i will probably be getting one of these.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/13369/ex-wat-173/Koolance_ERM-3K3UA_Cooling_System_-_Aluminum_-_No_Nozzles_.html?tl=g30c321s1471

I assume it will be like a fan, you will hear a bearing noise or somehting like that when the Antec gets near failure.


----------



## M3TAl

Just how long are you guys expecting to run these kuhlers? With a 3 year warranty, that's a pretty good amount of time. I'm hoping for ~5 years. I thought it's a 3 year warranty because after that you get too much evaporation inside the loop.


----------



## WarDad

I figure 5 years lifespan. I can't remember when a PC wasn't obsolete in 5 years. GPUs seem to go obsolete every 6 months







, but seriously folks they don't stay as up to date as a CPU.
Now a days, the desktop PC is maturing and mobile computing is getting the money thrown at it. So maybe the obsolete tread mill will slow down.
Granted, the CLC is cheaply made with aluminum radiators vs. some fine kits using Copper/Brass and better pumps. VHS was cheaply made compared to BetaMax, but it was good enough, cheap enough, and got cheaper. I can buy 2-3 CLCs for the price on one great kit.


----------



## M3TAl

Well that Swiftech H220 is a game changer with its copper rad, 5-6x more powerful pump, being expandable, and being very quiet. Hopefully this will keep pushing the others to improve.


----------



## robotmak

I have a concern:

My system is running the following

Ide (source: Real Temp GT 3.70)
min 34 / 25 / 30 / 25
max 44 / 42 / 41 / 42

100% Load <-- Prime 95 and/or IntelBurn Test (Source: Real Temp GT 3.70)
max: 87 / 98 / 93 / 91

I don't know what's wrong. The system is stable but I think it's too hot.

System:
Intel i7 3770k @ 4.6 ghz
Asrock z77e-itx (custom overclock pre option at 4.6)
8 GB Patriot Viper 3 1866 DDR3
Antec Khler H20 920 cooler
BitFenix Prodigy Case
on-board video (for now)
750GB Seagate SATA hard drive

Custom Fan setting: 33 Fan Ramp Start Temp / 38 Full Fan Speed Temp

I used Artic Silver Cremanqic and I followed Artic Silver's instructions and put a line in the middle of the cpu.

System is stable w/o increasing voltage. asrock is set for Stage 1 voltage setting.

thanks for all your advice


----------



## Phoenixlight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> do me a favour and take a pic of it, when you remove it.


Here's some pictures of the i5-2500 and the contact plate of the Antec 620 when I started to remove them:

Antec 620 907k .jpg file


Antec 620(2).jpg 1185k .jpg file


i5-2500.jpg 2177k .jpg file


I got the 3770K installed with the Artic Silver 5 and have it running at 4.5GHz now, It's getting into the 70*C catagory in Prime 95 but doesn't go past 60*C while I'm playing games/encoding. How do I increase the fan speed of the Antec 620 though? I was thinking about trying for 4.8GHz


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoenixlight*
> 
> Here's some pictures of the i5-2500 and the contact plate of the Antec 620 when I started to remove them:
> 
> Antec 620 907k .jpg file
> 
> 
> Antec 620(2).jpg 1185k .jpg file
> 
> 
> i5-2500.jpg 2177k .jpg file
> 
> 
> I got the 3770K installed with the Artic Silver 5 and have it running at 4.5GHz now, It's getting into the 70*C catagory in Prime 95 but doesn't go past 60*C while I'm playing games/encoding. How do I increase the fan speed of the Antec 620 though? I was thinking about trying for 4.8GHz


Looks better than my paste that I had.
As for your fan speed:
Well your fan speed, if I'm not mistaken on the 620 should be able to go to 2500 RPM right? Isn't that what it is showing on the antec software?
You can always hit the "extreme" button

FYI:
Next time attach/embed the pictures, so I don't have to download them








Thanks for the pics though +rep


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Phoenixlight*
> 
> I got the 3770K installed with the Artic Silver 5 and have it running at 4.5GHz now, It's getting into the 70*C catagory in Prime 95 but doesn't go past 60*C while I'm playing games/encoding. How do I increase the fan speed of the Antec 620 though? I was thinking about trying for 4.8GHz


I don't see an issue here for a 620, a 920 double thick rad would be an issue. You can plug the fan into the CPU fan header, and the pump into a 12v fan header or molex via an adaptor.

Lapping the pumps copper plate flat might help a few degrees. I'm sure there are lapping guides around.


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *chillidog*
> 
> as a owner of a antec kuhler 920 i would have to say its a great product it does the job down to the bone it is their with the h80/h90 or even better.
> if your already a owner or being a new owner of the 920 you might see something missing on the sound level of the control panal their is no display of numbers showing db.
> i have contacted antec about this and they told me to unistall the software using an registry cleaner and then reinstall,this did not work for me then they told me that the product had to be rma as it seems that their a problem with the controller chip
> i turn a blind eye to this(can't be arse with all the returning and the hassle dismantling and then the wait) i left it how it is and till date no problems the db display missing i now can live with as we got the green bar that tell you anyway.


The Antec representative is wrong. The decibels reading went blank when Antec updated their Chill Control software.
It has nothing to do with the hardware, this is a software issue.
IIRC it was the 1.2 software update that removed the decibels reading.


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> The Antec representative is wrong. The decibels reading went blank when Antec updated their Chill Control software.
> It has nothing to do with the hardware, this is a software issue.
> IIRC it was the 1.2 software update that removed the decibels reading.











This "software issue" I suspect is quite intentional. I've studied both the 1.0 and 1.2 exe files and it's pretty clear that the visibility flag of the numeric indicator controls for DB level has been turned off and that the sound level bar graph color thresholds have been removed (color now only green). In the 1.0 version the DB level was calculated from fan speed and I suspect that the developers felt this was just too inaccurate to be of any use in the display.


----------



## oswald3k

Um, lads... Can anyone spare those blue intel mounting plastic thingies?


----------



## Falmod

Hey guys quick question. Whats the newest gen kuhler 620. Cheers









Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oswald3k*
> 
> Um, lads... Can anyone spare those blue intel mounting plastic thingies?


Those don't exist any more - Antec changed it a while ago, to the black ones (check my installation guide in the OP)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Hey guys quick question. Whats the newest gen kuhler 620. Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


Shouold be gen3 - but when you buy it now (unless it is used) you won't find an older generation


----------



## Falmod

Apparently I have a gen 4 ?? Is that possible


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Apparently I have a gen 4 ?? Is that possible


could well be lol.
I thought for some reason gen 3 was the latest - jsut did a quick google, and it seems v4 is the latest.
So then you got the latest









EDIT:
In other news, I thought to share my Liquid temps and CPU temps @ 1.27 manual with 4.5ghz on my i7: (highest liquid temps of the antec 920 I've seen on the net) - also ignore the fan speeds, I got the fans (SP120) connected to my motherboard


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> could well be lol.
> I thought for some reason gen 3 was the latest - jsut did a quick google, and it seems v4 is the latest.
> So then you got the latest


Brilliant cheers for that







Now to start OCing I suppose, Complete noob so this will be fun xD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Brilliant cheers for that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to start OCing I suppose, Complete noob so this will be fun xD


haha good luck!


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha good luck!


Thanks, Im gonna need it lol havnt got a clue


----------



## airberg

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oswald3k*
> 
> Um, lads... Can anyone spare those blue intel mounting plastic thingies?


inbox me. I have what you need I think. I'll check when I get home. I run amd so I didnt use the intel ones


----------



## DrPhD

I'm afraid I have run into an issue with my Antec Kühler H2O 920. When I booted up the PC this morning none of my fans worked and the computer refused to boot because of CPU overheating. The fans were connected to the case (Corsair Obsidian 650-DW-1) so I attached all the fan cables to the motherboard directly instead. All the fans started working again when I did this so I can presume the problem there was the case fan controller cables or something like that.

Sadly, connecting the cables to the motherboard brought with it another problem. My Antec Kühler H2O 920 now makes an obscene amount of noise. Pump noise to be exact. Now I have browsed around this thread and the www in general and I have seen more reports of this happening. I just have no idea why it's happening now. The pump was extremely quiet before. Could not hear it at all, but as soon as I connected it directly to the motherboard it started making this awful noise. I have even recorded it in a 15 second audio file you can download here: http://limelinx.com/f5fdi
Needless to say it is even louder than the youtube videos I have seen/heard. This was recorded with the mic closer to the fans than to the cooler ffs...

Any help would be VERY MUCH appreciated.


----------



## M3TAl

Is your pump connected to the board also or just the fans? You need to make sure the pump is getting the full 12V, it can make noise if it's running less than 12V.


----------



## tdrloux

I like a silent computer, this fans antec when reach 1100 rpm becomes noise...
What fan you guys suggest? I want more rpm and less noise...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> I'm afraid I have run into an issue with my Antec Kühler H2O 920. When I booted up the PC this
> Any help would be VERY MUCH appreciated.


Try shaking around the pump, whilst it is out of the PC. That noise should then go. However for your CPU fan error - you need to plug it into the CPU fan header and disable the monitoring for the CPU fan
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> I like a silent computer, this fans antec when reach 1100 rpm becomes noise...
> What fan you guys suggest? I want more rpm and less noise...


The SP120's is the ones I have


----------



## DrPhD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Is your pump connected to the board also or just the fans? You need to make sure the pump is getting the full 12V, it can make noise if it's running less than 12V.


I connected it like the manual instructed. The usb cable to the motherboard and now the fan cable to the motherboard as well (CPU fan connector).
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try shaking around the pump, whilst it is out of the PC. That noise should then go. However for your CPU fan error - you need to plug it into the CPU fan header and disable the monitoring for the CPU fan


So far I have tried:
Shaking it.
Tapping it.
Putting the case on its side and letting it run for a while.

The noise has not decreased or increased, it's exactly the same.

As for the fans, those are working fine now that I have connected them directly to the motherboard. I suspect the case fan controller is busted or something. I can no longer use the case fan controls but otherwise all the fans work fine.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try shaking around the pump, whilst it is out of the PC. That noise should then go. However for your CPU fan error - you need to plug it into the CPU fan header and disable the monitoring for the CPU fan
> The SP120's is the ones I have


I dont know if you will understand me, but i will try to explain better i can:
At (1200) RPM antec fans noise = (X)
At (Y) RPM SP120 fan noise = (X)
(X) = barely audible
How much rmp the SP120 can do without get noisier than antec fan at 1200 rpm?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> As for the fans, those are working fine now that I have connected them directly to the motherboard. I suspect the case fan controller is busted or something. I can no longer use the case fan controls but otherwise all the fans work fine.


I would say take it back then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> I dont know if you will understand me, but i will try to explain better i can:
> At (1200) RPM antec fans noise = (X)
> At (Y) RPM SP120 fan noise = (X)
> (X) = barely audible
> How much rmp the SP120 can do without get noisier than antec fan at 1200 rpm?


1500rpm of the SP120's is like 1000pm of the antecs.
The temps are identical too.

I have a video in the OP showing it


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> I'm afraid I have run into an issue with my Antec Kühler H2O 920. When I booted up the PC this morning none of my fans worked and the computer refused to boot because of CPU overheating. The fans were connected to the case (Corsair Obsidian 650-DW-1) so I attached all the fan cables to the motherboard directly instead. All the fans started working again when I did this so I can presume the problem there was the case fan controller cables or something like that.
> 
> Sadly, connecting the cables to the motherboard brought with it another problem. My Antec Kühler H2O 920 now makes an obscene amount of noise. Pump noise to be exact. Now I have browsed around this thread and the www in general and I have seen more reports of this happening. I just have no idea why it's happening now. The pump was extremely quiet before. Could not hear it at all, but as soon as I connected it directly to the motherboard it started making this awful noise. I have even recorded it in a 15 second audio file you can download here: http://limelinx.com/f5fdi
> Needless to say it is even louder than the youtube videos I have seen/heard. This was recorded with the mic closer to the fans than to the cooler ffs...
> 
> Any help would be VERY MUCH appreciated.


you connected the pump to the case fan power originally?


----------



## tdrloux

I finally fix antec software:
I was using 125% zoom, When I changed to 100% (default) the antec software fix











But every icon and text is smaller, I dont like it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> I finally fix antec software:
> I was using 125% zoom, When I changed to 100% (default) the antec software fix
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But every icon and text is smaller, I dont like it


omg LOL


----------



## DrPhD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would say take it back then.


The case? Yeah that will be a problem for sure. But I can live with not being able to use the case fan speed controller. My real issue is with the pump noise from the 920.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> you connected the pump to the case fan power originally?


Originally all the fans were connected to the case. Not that the case fan controller had any influence on the CPU fans or anything, when I used chillcontrol to increase the speed for the cooler fans I could do that no problem. It's just that when I started the PC today none of the fans worked. So I connected them all directly to the motherboard instead. Now the fans work fine again but the cooler pump is giving me a headache.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> The case? Yeah that will be a problem for sure. But I can live with not being able to use the case fan speed controller. My real issue is with the pump noise from the 920.
> Originally all the fans were connected to the case. Not that the case fan controller had any influence on the CPU fans or anything, when I used chillcontrol to increase the speed for the cooler fans I could do that no problem. It's just that when I started the PC today none of the fans worked. So I connected them all directly to the motherboard instead. Now the fans work fine again but the cooler pump is giving me a headache.


That's interesting - what about the fans connected, as they should be to the antec splitter?
One cable fromt he antec goes into the CPU fan header
the other 2 take your two fans that are there on your rad.
A USB cable is plugged also into your motherboard.

Do that for a day or two and see what happens with the pump.
My thoughts was that it was connected tot he antec, and you should return the antec, whilst you still can.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Hi guys!
I am currently running an 620 Kuhler on an 4.6 GHz I5-3570K. Temps are about 27C idle and 63C load. I am running a push/pull config with two cougar PWM fans in my modded antec 900. Loving this cooler so far!


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Hi guys!
> I am currently running an 620 Kuhler on an 4.6 GHz I5-3570K. Temps are about 27C idle and 63C load. I am running a push/pull config with two cougar PWM fans in my modded antec 900. Loving this cooler so far!


Nice temps!
Ambient temp?
What stress test you use?
Can you post pics?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Thanks!
About 20C
Prime 95


----------



## DrPhD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's interesting - what about the fans connected, as they should be to the antec splitter?
> One cable from the antec goes into the CPU fan header
> the other 2 take your two fans that are there on your rad.
> A USB cable is plugged also into your motherboard.
> 
> Do that for a day or two and see what happens with the pump.
> My thoughts was that it was connected tot he antec, and you should return the antec, whilst you still can.


It used to be USB cable to the motherboard (still is)
The 2 fans were connected to the splitter (still are)
The only difference is that the pump power cable used to be connected to the case cables. But since they apparently no longer work that one is now connected directly to the motherboard.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> I like a silent computer, this fans antec when reach 1100 rpm becomes noise...
> What fan you guys suggest? I want more rpm and less noise...


You can look into some Swiftech Helix fans or Cougar Vortex (the 1500rpm PWM ones) also.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> It used to be USB cable to the motherboard (still is)
> The 2 fans were connected to the splitter (still are)
> The only difference is that the pump power cable used to be connected to the case cables. But since they apparently no longer work that one is now connected directly to the motherboard.


Sorry pump power cable?

I have two wires that need to be connected - for it to work:
-USB into motherboard USB
-CPU FAN HEADER cable into motherboard.

This HAS to be done like this, or else (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but you won't pass POST, as your motherboard should be giving you CPU FAN HEADER warnings.
More so - the CASE should NOT be controlling the speed of the pump/fans.
The motherboard, and/or fan controller should be doing that. Preferably the motherboard, as it has a direct link to the CPU socket - whereas a fan controller might not.

That set aside, you should still not be hearing any PUMP NOISE - after it running on for around 15mins, nor should the fans be too loud (of course you'll have to tweak this in the antec software OR on your motherboard, if the fans are connected to the motherboard directly, like my SP120's are)


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> It used to be USB cable to the motherboard (still is)
> The 2 fans were connected to the splitter (still are)
> The only difference is that the pump power cable used to be connected to the case cables. But since they apparently no longer work that one is now connected directly to the motherboard.


On some motherboards you have to DISABLE CPU fan control. That way the pump gets a full 12v. On others it's PWM, so it doesn't matter.
The Delta fans I tried kiiled the 12v from the motherboards CPU fan connector. I work around it with an adaptor that takes 12v from the 4 pin molex and has a connector to delivers tach wire to CPU fan header.


----------



## RedL1me

Is there replacement barbs i could buy for the pump?


----------



## DrPhD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sorry pump power cable?
> 
> I have two wires that need to be connected - for it to work:
> -USB into motherboard USB
> -CPU FAN HEADER cable into motherboard.
> 
> This HAS to be done like this, or else (someone correct me if I'm wrong) but you won't pass POST, as your motherboard should be giving you CPU FAN HEADER warnings.
> More so - the CASE should NOT be controlling the speed of the pump/fans.
> The motherboard, and/or fan controller should be doing that. Preferably the motherboard, as it has a direct link to the CPU socket - whereas a fan controller might not.
> 
> That set aside, you should still not be hearing any PUMP NOISE - after it running on for around 15mins, nor should the fans be too loud (of course you'll have to tweak this in the antec software OR on your motherboard, if the fans are connected to the motherboard directly, like my SP120's are)


I'm just using the terminology from the manual.


So to reiterate:
What has changed is that I now connect the pump power cable directly to the motherboard. And I did the same for all my other fan power cables because the case cables don't seem to be working anymore.
Now that I have done this, the fans are all fine, they work exactly the same as they used to. The problem is that the cooler itself is making a very annoying noise. A 15-second clip of the noise can be found here: http://www.sendspace.com/file/j2w6tr
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> On some motherboards you have to DISABLE CPU fan control. That way the pump gets a full 12v. On others it's PWM, so it doesn't matter.
> The Delta fans I tried kiiled the 12v from the motherboards CPU fan connector. I work around it with an adaptor that takes 12v from the 4 pin molex and has a connector to delivers tach wire to CPU fan header.


I guess I can try that but ChillControl is showing my Pump Speed at ~2890 RPM, very close to the maximum speed. So I doubt the pump is strapped for power.

*EDIT*:
Here is the page from the motherboard manual about the different fan connectors.

The cable coming out of the cooler is currently connected to "B" (CPU_FAN).


----------



## SeD669

Just installed a 620 onto my GTX580








Its a great WC Kit!!!


----------



## Maximization

From my understanding the chill control software works in concert witht the CPU fan header. It will send the correct signal so you don't get errors from the motherboard. I have to say once it is working correctly and having overclocked passed 5GHz on my i7-3820, that extreme setting might be loud but it cools the chip no problem, it actually helps cool my VRM on the motherboard they way i have it set up. With the bubbling noise, The part of the rad where the hoses come out is like a reservoir, i have been told with no proof, that you always have the reservoir above the pump to avoid bubbling noises.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> I'm just using the terminology from the manual.
> ).


OK - whatever Antec calls it - that's correctly put in B slot.
I can't access the file as it has been removed - put it on somewhere like dropbox or youtube.
Long story short: If the pump is still making noise, send it back, whilst you still got the chance to return it easily.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SeD669*
> 
> Just installed a 620 onto my GTX580
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its a great WC Kit!!!


Great job!


----------



## DrPhD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OK - whatever Antec calls it - that's correctly put in B slot.
> I can't access the file as it has been removed - put it on somewhere like dropbox or youtube.
> Long story short: If the pump is still making noise, send it back, whilst you still got the chance to return it easily.
> Great job!


I have updated the post with a new link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/j2w6tr

As for returning it, that's not as easy as you make it sound. Without that cooler I can't use my PC and I need it on a daily basis.
Nor is it brand new, I have used it for a while without issues.


----------



## Falmod

Tried shaking the rad ?


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> I'm just using the terminology from the manual.
> 
> 
> So to reiterate:
> What has changed is that I now connect the pump power cable directly to the motherboard. And I did the same for all my other fan power cables because the case cables don't seem to be working anymore.
> Now that I have done this, the fans are all fine, they work exactly the same as they used to. The problem is that the cooler itself is making a very annoying noise. A 15-second clip of the noise can be found here: http://www.sendspace.com/file/j2w6tr
> I guess I can try that but ChillControl is showing my Pump Speed at ~2890 RPM, very close to the maximum speed. So I doubt the pump is strapped for power.
> 
> *EDIT*:
> Here is the page from the motherboard manual about the different fan connectors.
> 
> The cable coming out of the cooler is currently connected to "B" (CPU_FAN).


as far as i am aware i just have the 2 fans connected to the mobo using the y splitter and the usb into the usb port on the the mobo (i think you need to make sure the black cable goes on the right side of the port). I think thats what powers the pump.

As for the noise. Everytime i remount my cooler (for any reason) and detach the rad all the water goes into the rad and away from the pump. so when i turn on the system the pump runs at max for a couple of secs and sounds like your one, then my system shuts down. The solution i have found has been to lie the case down on its side (with the mobo facing up so on its right side) so that the water runs from the rad and into the pump. that sorts out the noise for me.


----------



## Turbowhite

Try this for the noise - I mounted the pump where the hoses exit the top instead of the recommended bottom. The air went out of the pump and is absolutely quiet. It was noisy for two weeks before I tried this, it has been quiet for dour days, being turned off at night. The photo may be upside down - don't know why but the fans are on the top of my machine.


----------



## M3TAl

What I don't get is his pump ran perfectly fine when using the case's fan controller. That's the only thing that changed. So not sure what the deal is. As long as the pump is getting 12v it should be fine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> I have updated the post with a new link: http://www.sendspace.com/file/j2w6tr
> 
> As for returning it, that's not as easy as you make it sound. Without that cooler I can't use my PC and I need it on a daily basis.
> Nor is it brand new, I have used it for a while without issues.


You always got the stock cooler...
I knwo it is a pain but...you best off having a fully functional unit.
I'm only saying this as OTHER people reported it, and they RMA'ed it and had no problems afterwards.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What I don't get is his pump ran perfectly fine when using the case's fan controller. That's the only thing that changed. So not sure what the deal is. As long as the pump is getting 12v it should be fine.


Now that's a question indeed.
Maybe trying a different USB outlet?
Maybe it isn't getting enough power....which would mean RMA'ed the board....as it isn't drawing correct power


----------



## Demoscraft

Hey, awesome! A club for Kuhlers! I've got the 620 in my rig, I have an Enermax PWM Fan in pull configuration on mine











Full album for those interested







My First Build


----------



## M3TAl

Nice, still haven't hooked everything up eh?


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Nice, still haven't hooked everything up eh?


Oh that was a photo since before cable managing! I've since tucked away all those darned wires


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Oh that was a photo since before cable managing! I've since tucked away all those darned wires


Nice pic bro!


----------



## Wookieelover

This started life as a Kuhler 620


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nice pic bro!


Cheers!







Just had a look at your build, I'm a silence freak and your build looks awesome! How're you finding the corsair fans on your Antec?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just had a look at your build, I'm a silence freak and your build looks awesome! How're you finding the corsair fans on your Antec?


extremely good








I much prefer them over the antecs


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> extremely good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I much prefer them over the antecs


Totally. I replaced mine asap! The Antec's fan was awful. How do you find your temps w/ push-pull?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

They're ok, but I've never been convinced of my Antec 920 temps...:/
I was around 92c at 1.27v for 4.5ghz.
De-lidded I'm now at around 70c


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> They're ok, but I've never been convinced of my Antec 920 temps...:/
> I was around 92c at 1.27v for 4.5ghz.
> De-lidded I'm now at around 70c


You de-lidded?! You brave man. I could never do that. 92c seems pretty damned high!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yup it's too high...and I messed up a little :/
Check my thread in my signature for the de-lidding of the i7!


----------



## Darkbabe

Hello, I have a serious problem here. after installing firmware through the usbbootloader It's impossible to do anything else. not light the antec logo and the program does not work and I can not reinstall the original firmware. I downloaded the control VI chill and he did not think the H2O 920 then updated the firmware thinking it would solve my problem, however it got worse. Now he does not even appear in usbbootloader to get back the old firmware. the pump and the fans always spin at maximum as if the USB cable was unplugged. Will have to force him to appear in usbbootloader to reinstall the old firmware.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Darkbabe*
> 
> Hello, I have a serious problem here. after installing firmware through the usbbootloader It's impossible to do anything else. not light the antec logo and the program does not work and I can not reinstall the original firmware. I downloaded the control VI chill and he did not think the H2O 920 then updated the firmware thinking it would solve my problem, however it got worse. Now he does not even appear in usbbootloader to get back the old firmware. the pump and the fans always spin at maximum as if the USB cable was unplugged. Will have to force him to appear in usbbootloader to reinstall the old firmware.


That's because it was updating its firmware - you shouldn't have turned it off or disconnected it.
I suggest unplugging the cooler - then re-plugging it again (after uninstalling all the firmware, checking the registry via ccleaner).
Then install the firmware again, from a download off the website.
And then right click on the icon, after installation, and update SW/FW.
See how that goes.


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> checking the registry via ccleaner)..


Or use Revo Uninstaller, it's dead quick and easy


----------



## Darkbabe

Thanks for the tip. The strange thing is that I expected it to update right, I did everything as it should be done. until I reboot it in usbbootloader, however ja guy stopped responding and logo antec agreed not more, already hung it about 10 times. already changed the usb port and nothing, simply usbbootloder opens, but nothing to recognize the device so I can change the firmware. You see I had a chill V control and went on the antec site to see if there was something new and had available the chill control VI, I downloaded it, but once installed it gave the typical error that was not connected even after restart and decided to give up the firmware thinking it was my problem, and that was when the headache started. Now I can no longer do the reverse process, when you click update SW / FW he opens usbbootloader however so is this.


----------



## DrPhD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Tried shaking the rad ?


Yes I have.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> as far as i am aware i just have the 2 fans connected to the mobo using the y splitter and the usb into the usb port on the the mobo (i think you need to make sure the black cable goes on the right side of the port). I think thats what powers the pump.
> 
> As for the noise. Everytime i remount my cooler (for any reason) and detach the rad all the water goes into the rad and away from the pump. so when i turn on the system the pump runs at max for a couple of secs and sounds like your one, then my system shuts down. The solution i have found has been to lie the case down on its side (with the mobo facing up so on its right side) so that the water runs from the rad and into the pump. that sorts out the noise for me.


I am not sure what you mean with "black cable goes on the right side of the port". My cables are all black and which port do you mean?
I have also let the PC run for a while while on its side so that the air could rise out, it did not change anything.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intel3770K*
> 
> Try this for the noise - I mounted the pump where the hoses exit the top instead of the recommended bottom. The air went out of the pump and is absolutely quiet. It was noisy for two weeks before I tried this, it has been quiet for dour days, being turned off at night. The photo may be upside down - don't know why but the fans are on the top of my machine.


I've heard about this but that would mean the noise should have disappeared when I ran it on its side right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What I don't get is his pump ran perfectly fine when using the case's fan controller. That's the only thing that changed. So not sure what the deal is. As long as the pump is getting 12v it should be fine.


Yes that is what I don't understand as well. The only thing different is that it is now connected to the CPU_FAN port on the motherboard instead of the case cables.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You always got the stock cooler...
> I knwo it is a pain but...you best off having a fully functional unit.
> I'm only saying this as OTHER people reported it, and they RMA'ed it and had no problems afterwards.
> Now that's a question indeed.
> Maybe trying a different USB outlet?
> Maybe it isn't getting enough power....which would mean RMA'ed the board....as it isn't drawing correct power


Sadly I do not have the stock cooler.
I did not change the USB port at all so I doubt that is the cause, but I guess I'll try a different one anyway.
I have also sent a support ticket to Antec but I have yet to receive a reply.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Let us know what Antec say!


----------



## DrPhD

I have no tried a different USB port and also a different port for the CPU fan. Neither of those made a difference.
I have also remounted the cooler so that the tubes exit the top of the cooler instead of the bottom, sadly this also causes the cables to be in a less desirable position. Nevertheless I have tried it and the noise is exactly the same.

Here is the reply from Antec:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antec*
> Thank you for contacting Antec Customer Support. Please follow the instructions at the bottom of this email to add your messages directly to this ticket. Replying to this email may result in delays to your answer.
> 
> Sometimes air can become trapped within the cooling plate and cause noise. Also some Mainboard fan controlling functions may interfere with the pump working properly, which again can cause noise.
> 
> 1) Please enter your BIOS and check if there are any fan controlling functions active and disable them.
> 
> 2) To release trapped air, disassemble the radiator from the enclosure and carefully shake it while the system is on.
> 
> 3) Try to rotate the cooler in a way that the hoses are facing a different direction than down.
> 
> If all this fails, you may want to opt for a replacement through your reseller. This would be the fastest way to receive a replacement cooler.
> 
> This support ticket will remain open. If it should get closed by the system without a solution found, please send an email to [email protected] mentioning the Ticket ID in the subject.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Antec Customer Support


----------



## Bruennis

Anyone know when v4 of the Kuhler h20 920 is coming out?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruennis*
> 
> Anyone know when v4 of the Kuhler h20 920 is coming out?


Should be the one out - there's no newer one, and the one you buy now will definitely be a V4








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> I have no tried a different USB port and also a different port for the CPU fan. Neither of those made a difference.
> I have also remounted the cooler so that the tubes exit the top of the cooler instead of the bottom, sadly this also causes the cables to be in a less desirable position. Nevertheless I have tried it and the noise is exactly the same.
> 
> Here is the reply from Antec:


If you have done all of it then contact them again, and send it back.


----------



## Demoscraft

I got the newest version of the Antec 620, The instructions were no help at all. I'd was basically all trial and error!


----------



## Bruennis

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Should be the one out - there's no newer one, and the one you buy now will definitely be a V4


How do you tell? Does it say v4 or Rev4.0 on the box or in the manual???


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruennis*
> 
> How do you tell? Does it say v4 or Rev4.0 on the box or in the manual???


As that's the latest version.
You can email Antec if you want







!

I also had the same question a few weeks back, and after a little research you'll be able to find that V4 is the latest and the only one available.


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruennis*
> 
> How do you tell? Does it say v4 or Rev4.0 on the box or in the manual???


The newest versions have 2011 support, so on the box there is a giant sticker saying "Socket 2011 Support". Plus they are the only ones available to buy, unless you get it from a retailer which still has old stock.


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruennis*
> 
> Anyone know when v4 of the Kuhler h20 920 is coming out?


Its already out I have one









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Bruennis*
> 
> How do you tell? Does it say v4 or Rev4.0 on the box or in the manual???


It has it on the box where the barcode is abouve it will say kuhler h20 620 v4

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> I got the newest version of the Antec 620, The instructions were no help at all. I'd was basically all trial and error!


Same here, Got it in the end though


----------



## DrPhD

Sending it back will be extremely problematic for me.
I'm starting to wonder if this will work...

http://youtu.be/tcgVzf2tsjI


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Same here, Got it in the end though


Took the better part of half an hour for me..... Haha!


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Took the better part of half an hour for me..... Haha!


Took me quite a while maybe 1-2 hours, Had my 1 year old daughter trying to help out also lol


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Took me quite a while maybe 1-2 hours, Had my 1 year old daughter trying to help out also lol


Yeah! The instructions weren't the best either, eh?!


----------



## Falmod

In the end I thought **** the instructions lol threw em out and did it my way


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> In the end I thought **** the instructions lol threw em out and did it my way


Exactly what I did! Should be a box quote. "Antec Kuhler h20 620, So hard to put together, you can throw away the instructions!"


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's why guys, I have a pretty unique Antec installation guide linked in the OP - one that isn't done by anyone - by that I mean all the other reviewers did theirs 1 year ago, and now their installation is not relevant to "v4" models.


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's why guys, I have a pretty unique Antec installation guide linked in the OP - one that isn't done by anyone - by that I mean all the other reviewers did theirs 1 year ago, and now their installation is not relevant to "v4" models.


Indeed! And it's a great guide! If only I knew about it when I was building last month haha.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Indeed! And it's a great guide! If only I knew about it when I was building last month haha.


haha!
A lot of people have said that


----------



## dmanstasiu

lol I ignored any and all instructions. It went right onto my 7970 (Kuhler 920)


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Exactly what I did! Should be a box quote. "Antec Kuhler h20 620, So hard to put together, you can throw away the instructions!"


Agreed on that !


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> lol I ignored any and all instructions. It went right onto my 7970 (Kuhler 920)


maybe that's because they didn't have instructions for adding it to a 7970







hehe


----------



## Darkbabe

Problem solved! Thanks to good old windows XP, windows 7 not left open the bootloader right, a call was so old pc with win XP ready and did not need to chill the program control V, it was only by the driver and open and I could see that usbbootloader not had any firmware installed, perhaps because it was my fault for the firmware that came a new program was perhaps the Antec mistake in letting this firmware with a program that only serves to version 4 of the new H2O. strange because downloading the correct model but the program does not work and gave me this problem with the firmware that thank god this resolved. gets the hint, never lock in Frimware not sure if you need to do this. thanks to all who help me.


----------



## Turbowhite

This is what I did to remove the air from my system - it originally made a hard disks type chatter. I set up another power supply, used the green to black paper clip to turn the PS on, used the molex to three pin fan adapter from the yellow/black (12V) and then proceeded to move both the radiator and pump in any direction that made it quiet. Then I estimated the position in my case and voila-it became SILENT - the fans on low speed - 344rpm are noisier. almost a week now.


----------



## dmanstasiu

344 rpm? wow. That's slow ..


----------



## Falmod

344 RPM, Is it moving xD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

344RPM is WAY too slow for proper cooling - I would be concerned if my SP120's (that have a supposedly better static pressure than the stock antecs) were to go below 500RPM.
You want your antecs to be running at a minimum of 600RPM for stable temps.
But whatever works for you... just don't fry that chip


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DrPhD*
> 
> Yes I have.
> I am not sure what you mean with "black cable goes on the right side of the port". My cables are all black and which port do you mean?
> I have also let the PC run for a while while on its side so that the air could rise out, it did not change anything.


By black cable i mean that the usb connector has individual colored wires on it and there is a black wire that should be attached to the header with it on the right hand side.


----------



## jperz09

Hi, I searched the thread, but maybe i didn't look hard enough. But I've got the Kuhler 920, and I've got the pump plugged into an adapter that plugs into the PSU. So my pump is always at about 3000 RPMs. Is anyone else doing this? if so, have you had any issues with the pump? I don't wanna burn it out prematurely.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jperz09*
> 
> Hi, I searched the thread, but maybe i didn't look hard enough. But I've got the Kuhler 920, and I've got the pump plugged into an adapter that plugs into the PSU. So my pump is always at about 3000 RPMs. Is anyone else doing this? if so, have you had any issues with the pump? I don't wanna burn it out prematurely.


What kind of "adapter"? Is it plugged into a molex?

It shouldn't be running at 3000RPM ; 2400rpm is the rated speed. Where are you getting the 3000rpm figure from ?


----------



## jperz09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> What kind of "adapter"? Is it plugged into a molex?
> 
> It shouldn't be running at 3000RPM ; 2400rpm is the rated speed. Where are you getting the 3000rpm figure from ?


Yeah it's plugged into a molex. and I get the 3000 RPM pump speed from the chill control program.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jperz09*
> 
> Yeah it's plugged into a molex. and I get the 3000 RPM pump speed from the chill control program.


3k pump speed is the default, and doesn't run any lower - I think dman got confused with you talking about FAN speed there


----------



## dmanstasiu

@TD


----------



## jperz09

Haha thanks guys! Load off my mind, now I just need to deal with my brand new corsair psu with a faulty fan...joy

Thanks again guys


----------



## InsideJob

I am unfortunately no longer a member of this club... (request to be removed from owners list)
Sold off my Kuhler 620 to a friend and returned to a trusty CM 212 Evo


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> @TD


hahahaha YEEEES








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *InsideJob*
> 
> I am unfortunately no longer a member of this club... (request to be removed from owners list)
> Sold off my Kuhler 620 to a friend and returned to a trusty CM 212 Evo


List will be completely reset once I get the spreadsheet working - which is going to be extremely soon!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys check the OP!
http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club

Add yourselves to the club please!
Changes might take a little while to register

HUGE THANKS to raptorxrx for helping me on this!


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys check the OP!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club
> 
> Add yourselves to the club please!
> Changes might take a little while to register
> 
> HUGE THANKS to raptorxrx for helping me on this!


i am on this right?


----------



## basumba01

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wookieelover*
> 
> 
> 
> This started life as a Kuhler 620


Nice! Build-log please! How's the performance?


----------



## 8bitG33k

First of all kudos and Thank You Totally Dubbed for creating this thread and your instructions (+Rep).

Second, I have a question. I'll be owning the 920 here in a few days and am planning on putting this in a new system with a fresh Windows Install. I have read in several places to install the software first. Of course that will not be possible in my scenario - so my question is, do I need to install an aircooler, then install Windows to install the software and then switch to the 920? Or should I run the fans off of my board while installing Windows and then switch the fans to the USB header after installing the Antec software? Lastly, could or should I simply swap the fans for PWM fans and forego the software altogether?

What are your recommendations?


----------



## M3TAl

You don't need to install an air cooler. Never used a 920 or the software but like you say, seems using motherboard for fans and switching to usb later would work.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I assume having the fans plugged into the USB header without the software wont even power the fans?


----------



## M3TAl

I think that would work fine. Changing to PWM fans is solely up to you though. Depends if you want less noise.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I assume having the fans plugged into the USB header without the software wont even power the fans?


Works for me








:


----------



## 8bitG33k

I guess I'm confused then why some people (incl Antec) recommend installing the software first. And what the drawbacks are if it is not installed first.


----------



## 5150WS6

Hey guys,
Maybe you can help me. I'm about to lose my mind over this damn cooler. 920 version and the fan and everything associated went in fine. I can get NO help from Antec despite multiple emails. My problem is with the ChillControl software. I cannot get it to work. The fans stays at a super super slow rpm no matter what my fps and now matter how hard I work this system. I don't think it's cooling the way it should. I don't want to fry my new CPU of some crap software.....which at this point I feel is and is completely worthless.

Here's what I've tried:
Running as admin, tried both USB hubs, disabled fan in BIOS.
I've installed version 1 and the new version that came with my disc as well.
I've removed all drivers, shut down, unplugged the USB, turned back on reinstalled. Shut down again and then plugged USB back into the hub.
I've also tried Driver Sweeper in safe mode to try to start completely fresh.

The error I have gotten is that it can't communicate due to the USB.

What I haven't tried:
Scrapping this pos and building my own water cooled system and get my dual vid cards cooled at the same time and hock this thing for parts money.

Completely frustrated. I know it's probably been mentioned in the 900 pages of this thread and I tried to search for it but didn't come up with anything. You guys have any advice before I make this cooler a new target at the range?


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys check the OP!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club
> 
> Add yourselves to the club please!
> Changes might take a little while to register
> 
> HUGE THANKS to raptorxrx for helping me on this!


AWESOME.

Just chucked my name down. That's a brilliant idea. +Rep good sir.


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Intel3770K*
> 
> Try this for the noise - I mounted the pump where the hoses exit the top instead of the recommended bottom. The air went out of the pump and is absolutely quiet. It was noisy for two weeks before I tried this, it has been quiet for dour days, being turned off at night. The photo may be upside down - don't know why but the fans are on the top of my machine.


Air bubles stopped my 920 pump after moving the motherboard to a new case. Mounting the pump with hoses on the bottom can allow air to get trapped in it. The quick and easy fix is to tilt the system around to let air float back into the radiator.


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> First of all kudos and Thank You Totally Dubbed for creating this thread and your instructions (+Rep).
> 
> Second, I have a question. I'll be owning the 920 here in a few days and am planning on putting this in a new system with a fresh Windows Install. I have read in several places to install the software first. Of course that will not be possible in my scenario - so my question is, do I need to install an aircooler, then install Windows to install the software and then switch to the 920? Or should I run the fans off of my board while installing Windows and then switch the fans to the USB header after installing the Antec software? Lastly, could or should I simply swap the fans for PWM fans and forego the software altogether?
> 
> What are your recommendations?


I did a new build and basicly hooked it up as instructed, usb and all power cables in correct headers. Then do windows instal. It will work with a white led in a standby mode untill you install the drivers which should be one of the first things you do once os is installed.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> First of all kudos and Thank You Totally Dubbed for creating this thread and your instructions (+Rep).
> 
> Second, I have a question. I'll be owning the 920 here in a few days and am planning on putting this in a new system with a fresh Windows Install. I have read in several places to install the software first. Of course that will not be possible in my scenario - so my question is, do I need to install an aircooler, then install Windows to install the software and then switch to the 920? Or should I run the fans off of my board while installing Windows and then switch the fans to the USB header after installing the Antec software? Lastly, could or should I simply swap the fans for PWM fans and forego the software altogether?
> 
> What are your recommendations?


I was in the same situation as you are, with a fresh system running the 920. I just installed the 920 fully then proceeded with the win 7 install and when that was done installed the antec software. while i was doing the win install the 920 was just running at full. so no i dont think you will need an aircooler


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> i am on this right?


No one is on it, since that post I made.
This is a brand new spreadsheet, owned and controlled by me









I've left the old one there, just for old times sake.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> First of all kudos and Thank You Totally Dubbed for creating this thread and your instructions (+Rep).
> 
> Second, I have a question. I'll be owning the 920 here in a few days and am planning on putting this in a new system with a fresh Windows Install. I have read in several places to install the software first. Of course that will not be possible in my scenario - so my question is, do I need to install an aircooler, then install Windows to install the software and then switch to the 920? Or should I run the fans off of my board while installing Windows and then switch the fans to the USB header after installing the Antec software? Lastly, could or should I simply swap the fans for PWM fans and forego the software altogether?
> 
> What are your recommendations?


Cheers for the rep buddy!

I had that SAME dilemma myself.
Do not worry about what Antec say in that respect.
Install your cooler as you would do - and then install the software after you boot.

However here's my suggestion:
Do no plug the two fans into the fan splitter (seeing as you won't have the software yet) but plug them into the motherboard.
By doing this, you will insure that during your windows installation, your BIOS will be controlling it, and not the antec software, that has yet to be installed. I also highly suggest making them run at MAX RPM (this is ALL FOR THE installation of windows). Just an FYI: The cooler as long as it is working, you'll be fine - but just to give you that added security setup the fans at max rpm via the bios.
Also when doing this via the bios you will have to IGNORE FAN SPEED LIMIT for the CPU fan section of your bios - or else the BIOS won't let you pass POST.

Before switching fans - I highly suggest using them and seeing how they are for you.
The fans are actually brilliant - and especially with the software mean that you get a great control and analytic of your pump speed, fan speed, liquid temperature.
On the down side, the fans are extremely noisy (in my opinion) when they ramp past 1200RPM.
However on IDLE the antec fans run at 600RPM and are so quiet that you will probably never hear it. Realistically my PC is hardly ever on idle, so I changed my fans.

Also, if you got a stock cooler: I would maybe suggest using that, just for convenience. My problem with my cooler (and the reason I didn't use it for my fresh install) was because it blew upon connecting it to my motherboard lol.
If you can use the stock cooler, just to get all the windows stuff done (win updates, install, drivers for motherboard etc) then that would be even better than installing your Antec.

So suggested thing for you:
-Stock cooler
-Install every, make sure drivers are working
-Install antec software
-Install antec cooler

If you don't have the stock cooler however:
-Install antec, plug fans into motherboard CHASSIS headers
-Adjust fans in BIOS, before installing anything
-Install windows - install SOME drivers, but also install antec software
-Shutdown system - connect fans to antec splitter
-Go into antec softawre, and make them go to extreme or "silent" depending if extreme is too noisy for you
-Install ALL drivers for your PC
-Hit up P95, and then setup a CUSTOM fan profile so that you can determine when it should ramp up or down -> pump speed will always be around 3,000 -> fans go down to 600RPM and ramp to around 2500RPM (jet engines lol)

Hope this helps!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *5150WS6*
> 
> Hey guys,
> Maybe you can help me. I'm about to lose my mind over this damn cooler. 920 version and the fan and everything associated went in fine. I can get NO help from
> The error I have gotten is that it can't communicate due to the USB.
> Completely frustrated. I know it's probably been mentioned in the 900 pages of this thread and I tried to search for it but didn't come up with anything. You guys have any advice before I make this cooler a new target at the range?


To me this sounds USB DRIVERS related.
Are you sure the USB is being recognized properly? And that the Antec is plugged into the CPU header?
Also try a different USB slot on your motherboard.

You are extremely right about frying a chip - you do NOT want it to be idle when your system is demanding cooling.
Best way to test if the antec software is working is simply hitting that EXTREME profile button - it shoudl then automatically RAMP your fans to MAX, no matter what load you have.
So instead of putting load on your PC next time - just hit that button to see if it is responding.

I also suggest opening up event viewer in windows and checking to see if you have any errors upon launch of the program and/or USB device having problems via device manager.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> AWESOME.
> Just chucked my name down. That's a brilliant idea. +Rep good sir.


Cheers mate!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> Air bubles stopped my 920 pump after moving the motherboard to a new case. Mounting the pump with hoses on the bottom can allow air to get trapped in it. The quick and easy fix is to tilt the system around to let air float back into the radiator.


Agreed


----------



## Falmod

Added myself to the list


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Added myself to the list


I see people have been adding themselves- that's great!
Good response rate so far







!

You can also edit your response, if you ever change cooler, get another one, or change fans!


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I see people have been adding themselves- that's great!
> Good response rate so far
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> You can also edit your response, if you ever change cooler, get another one, or change fans!


Thats brilliant, Nice work


----------



## 8bitG33k

Thanks Totally Dubbed (and all the others who answered!). I'm running a Xigmatek Dark Knight atm anyway so I'll just reinstall Windows, then the Antec Software and then install the cooler last.

v1.3 is the latest version?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> Thats brilliant, Nice work


Cheers man!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Thanks Totally Dubbed (and all the others who answered!). I'm running a Xigmatek Dark Knight atm anyway so I'll just reinstall Windows, then the Antec Software and then install the cooler last.
> 
> v1.3 is the latest version?


Indeed 1.3 seems to be the latest version:
Direct download link:
http://www.antec.com/download/H2O_920_software_v1.3.rar

Source:
http://www.antec.com/Believe_it/index.php?page=support_productInfo_details&ProdID=77086

Doubled up source and changelog:
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/showthread.php?t=171136


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Thanks,

The 1.3 is our latest software, we've just released the software last Monday. This is the problem fix for Windows 8 and it's compatible.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> The 1.3 is our latest software, we've just released the software last Monday. This is the problem fix for Windows 8 and it's compatible.


Sweet an Antec rep!
Glad to have you in our thread







!

Your website seems a little hard to find the support page for the 920/620.
Is there any chance of looking into that?

Also, is the changelog on techpowerup correct? EDIT: For 1.3 is the only difference the win8 compatibility?
Finally - may I ask why the sound level DB part was removed from the Antec CC software?

I should also say: if there is anything you think that's worth mentioning in the OP, please don't hesitate to PM me!

EDIT2 - here's the software not working (maybe as my SP120's are connected to my motherboard?)
Comes with a hardware monitor - just like HWmonitor offers - I got CCV and CCVI installed -> interesting to note that VI is ASETEK in my programs, and V is ANTEC


----------



## Maximization

1.2 seemed to work fine in windows 8, will have to check out 1.3.


----------



## BranField

FFS.....i have just downloaded and TRIED to install the updated 1.3 however i cant open chillcontrol at all. It just tells me "could not connect to device! Please make sure that the device is connected and try again."

I have gone into device manager and can see an unknown device in other devices. Tried to update the driver using the automatic search but that did not turn up anything. i then chose the install folder for the manual driver update and that didnt work either. Also, in devices and printers the kuhler does not show up any more. It just says "690LC" with a yellow ! on it.

I have uninstalled and reinstalled (with reboots inbetween) to no avail. it would seem that it is working (as in the fans and pump havent ramped up and are staying as far as i can tell at the same level as before i started to update) but i cannot open the software and my computer does not recognize it.

suggestions anyone?


----------



## Maximization

yellow means missing driver


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> yellow means missing driver


Thats what i thought but i cant find the driver and neither can windows. when i point the driver updater to the driver folder in the install location of chillcontrol it says its not there.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> yellow means missing driver


I got the drivers, and have CC V working fine...CC VI doesn't open...I was thinking it was fan related - am I wrong in thinking this?


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I got the drivers, and have CC V working fine...CC VI doesn't open...I was thinking it was fan related - am I wrong in thinking this?


the previous was working fine with me as well. I dont think mine is fan related. yours maybe as you say you have the drivers. are you showing no errors in device manager or devices and printers then?


----------



## mtbush

CC VI 1.3 doesn't work for me either after a fresh install of Win 7. I think Antec packed the wrong .inf driver files, because they don't have the same file name structure as CC V 1.2


----------



## Maximization

It is possable you need the original stock confiruation for the new driver to load, or the old driver did not uninstall correclty, i don't know i did not get home to check it out yet. This is all windows 8 issues? i guess roll back time too 1.2. Did you guys right click and choose SW/Hw update or do full uninstall procedure and install new driver?


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mtbush*
> 
> CC VI 1.3 doesn't work for me either after a fresh install of Win 7. I think Antec packed the wrong .inf driver files, because they don't have the same file name structure as CC V 1.2


so currently its not working for quite a few people then.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> It is possible you need the original stock configuration for the new driver to load, or the old driver did not uninstall correctly, i don't know i did not get home to check it out yet. This is all windows 8 issues?


what do you mean by the stock configuration? I am running win 7 and so is mtbush.

i did notice that the setup did not uninstall the previous version of ChillC. I had to manually uninstall the original one i had after installing VI. I also did a reg cleanup using Ccleaner just encase. and re-installed VI after uninstalling original.


----------



## Maximization

understood BranField. By stock stock configuration , i mean the rad fans are in the cpu header, not case supply or additional fan controller. it just occured to me the rep said windows 8 fix, maybe 1.3 is only for windows 8?


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> understood BranField. By stock stock configuration , i mean the rad fans are in the cpu header, not case supply or additional fan controller. it just occured to me the rep said windows 8 fix, maybe 1.3 is only for windows 8?


ahh i see. my fans are using the splitter and connected to the cpu fan header like stock just with different fans. From what i understood it was an update to include win 8. also it is the only download option on the website so i doubt it would be win 8 only.


----------



## Maximization

got it, its for all window versions. I will boot into windows 8 and check this out, I am not touching my Vista install until we found out what this problem is.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> got it, its for all window versions. I will boot into windows 8 and check this out, I am not touching my Vista install until we found out what this problem is.


very wise


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I haven't uninstalled anything - but could plug my SP120's into the fan headers - but don't know why that would cause an error?
Regardless that HWmonitor equivalent is VERY useful!


----------



## ahimoth

Well I have two 120mm Betfinix Spector Pro's (red led) in push pull and I don't drop below 32 degrees cel in the Australian summer and 30 degree days so it's doing quite fine imo.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I haven't uninstalled anything - but could plug my SP120's into the fan headers - but don't know why that would cause an error?
> Regardless that HWmonitor equivalent is VERY useful!


do you still have the previous version of ChillC as well then? I dont think the way the fans are connected would cause this kind of error, especially as it says it cannot locate driver. the Hw monitor thing is pretty handy i must grant them that. its got some odd things listed under my ssd like alpha factors and remaining life.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> do you still have the previous version of ChillC as well then? I dont think the way the fans are connected would cause this kind of error, especially as it says it cannot locate driver. the Hw monitor thing is pretty handy i must grant them that. its got some odd things listed under my ssd like alpha factors and remaining life.


Yeah 100% life remaining! No need for a healing potion! WIN! haha

Oh and yeah I have the CC software still there.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah 100% life remaining! No need for a healing potion! WIN! haha
> 
> Oh and yeah I have the CC software still there.


we mush have some kind of magic SSD that dosent degrade, epic win lol.

uninstalling the orig CC dosent work btw


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> we mush have some kind of magic SSD that dosent degrade, epic win lol.
> 
> uninstalling the orig CC dosent work btw


Cheers for trying - no idea.
Might put in the stock antec fans - just connect them next time I boot to see what happens.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Cheers for trying - no idea.
> Might put in the stock antec fans - just connect them next time I boot to see what happens.


Thats ok. Thanks for starting the thread in the first place.

i cant see why putting the stock fans on will make it work as fans dont need drivers. but i suppose its worth a try.

im tempted to go for the h100i or the new swiftech soon.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> Thats ok. Thanks for starting the thread in the first place.
> 
> i cant see why putting the stock fans on will make it work as fans dont need drivers. but i suppose its worth a try.
> 
> im tempted to go for the h100i or the new swiftech soon.


Kind of pointless getting the h100i if you got the h220 coming out


----------



## BranField

yer i know that but the limiting factor is cash at the moment as i am jobless









if i were to upgrade to either of them i would then have to buy a 140mm fan for the rear and i want to use that as an intake so then would need another filter. also i have found out that i dont have a working amd backplate so will need that as well (only costs about £6 but every little does not help). it soon adds up.

the reason for upgrading is because im not overly pleased with the temps im getting with the 920 and the fact that it is a huge thing to be hanging over the mobo and encroaching on the cpu area.


----------



## Maximization

i do not see 1.3 only 1.2 on Antec web site

this one right?

http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=704370&pid=17


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> i do not see 1.3 only 1.2 on Antec web site
> 
> this one right?
> 
> http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=704370&pid=17


link is not working for me but the one were using is the one that Totally Dubbed posted, http://www.antec.com/download/H2O_920_software_v1.3.rar


----------



## Maximization

let me try this out

o great windows 8 does not have a .rar unpacker... too the app store


----------



## Maximization

naa does not work,
this is some sort of beta, we have been had!!!!!!!!!


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> naa does not work,
> this is some sort of beta, we have been had!!!!!!!!!


god damn it. hmmmmm, now to search for v1.2

EDIT: found v1.2 (http://forums.hexus.net/antec-care-hexus/259629-k-hler-h2o-920-problem-chill-control-v.html if anyone needs it)


----------



## Maximization

yeap I am going back


----------



## BranField

Going back has worked for me. So back to square one for me then. wonder if that antec rep guy will be back here with info as to why it messed up?


----------



## Maximization

no way that driver was completed, it did not load new device drivers or even prompt for reboot.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I can confirm with the antec fans + VI it didn't work.

But whilst I did that...I then had a little fun haha:


----------



## Maximization

you might cut your finger off doing that!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> you might cut your finger off doing that!!


haha maybe


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I can confirm with the antec fans + VI it didn't work.
> 
> But whilst I did that...I then had a little fun haha:


Wowsors! Your accent is so hot.

Straight male here too. Haha!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Wowsors! Your accent is so hot.
> 
> Straight male here too. Haha!


hahaha no it isn't - it is quite cold with those Antec's running at those mental RPM's


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hahaha no it isn't - it is quite cold with those Antec's running at those mental RPM's


Haha those things sound literally like jet engines at full!

Trust me! Living in New Zealand hearing "broo mate, and champ" all day, a classy english accent is well-welcomed!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Haha those things sound literally like jet engines at full!
> 
> Trust me! Living in New Zealand hearing "broo mate, and champ" all day, a classy english accent is well-welcomed!


haha I wouldn't class myself as "classy" by any means! Especially not compared to some people who are fully english here!


----------



## dmanstasiu

>Calmly sips his London Fog, made from steeped briefly silk Earl Grey bags and hand-frothed milk with a tablespoon of organic french vanilla


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> >Calmly sips his London Fog, made from steeped briefly silk Earl Grey bags and hand-frothed milk with a tablespoon of organic french vanilla


While tipping his top hat to his maid who's cleaning up his breakfast crumpets.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> >Calmly sips his London Fog, made from steeped briefly silk Earl Grey bags and hand-frothed milk with a tablespoon of organic french vanilla
> 
> 
> 
> While tipping his top hat to his maid who's cleaning up his breakfast crumpets.
Click to expand...

Oi I'm from Vancouver, aint no crumpets here







No top hats either, we call them touques


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Oi I'm from Vancouver, aint no crumpets here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No top hats either, we call them touques


Oh I thought we were doing a bit making fun of Totally Dubbed!

But since your Canadian, You better apologise to me. Eh?


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Oi I'm from Vancouver, aint no crumpets here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No top hats either, we call them touques
> 
> 
> 
> Oh I thought we were doing a bit making fun of Totally Dubbed!
> 
> But since your Canadian, You better apologise to me. Eh?
Click to expand...

You're* misinterpreting my statements. Also, I see no reason to apologize*. TD is a goof though


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You're* misinterpreting my statements. Also, I see no reason to apologize*. TD is a goof though


Om nom nom nom nom.
I'm eating my crumpets.

Not really. Just eating. Always eating. Whilst staying cool, like a ninja.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You're* misinterpreting my statements. Also, I see no reason to apologize*. TD is a goof though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Om nom nom nom nom.
> I'm eating my crumpets.
> 
> Not really. Just eating. Always eating. *Whilst staying cool, like a ninja*.
Click to expand...

Ever tried parkour?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

In my dreams I have. Does that still count?


----------



## Demoscraft

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You're* misinterpreting my statements. Also, I see no reason to apologize*. TD is a goof though


I'll give you the You're* but its actually apologise.

Apologise


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> I'll give you the You're* but its actually apologise.
> 
> Apologise


apol·o·gise

Definition of APOLOGISE

British variant of apologize

apol·o·gize

: to make an apology

Merriam-Webster trumps thefreedictionary.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ladies, please stay on topic lol


----------



## Falmod

The subject changed quickly here lol back on topic wgat sort of fans would you guys reccommend for my kuhler 620 for a good push/pull config ?

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> The subject changed quickly here lol back on topic wgat sort of fans would you guys reccommend for my kuhler 620 for a good push/pull config ?
> 
> Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


I quite like the SP120's myself


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I quite like the SP120's myself


Was thinking of those, would look pretty sweet in my case and Ive heard good performance too. About £20 a pair arent they ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

You can nab them at £17 for the pair if you're lucky! That's for the quiet version.


----------



## Falmod

That would be fine for me







Now to make £17. Might sell an Xbox lol Also not to be off the subject but do you have any recommendations for 140mm fans. Preferably red. I need 3 of em


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> That would be fine for me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Now to make £17. Might sell an Xbox lol Also not to be off the subject but do you have any recommendations for 140mm fans. Preferably red. I need 3 of em


Ah not LED - but normal ones - AF140's are beastly!
I'm honestly not a Corsair fanboy - but they do SO MUCH right!


----------



## Falmod

Ill take a look. Once I pick them up will have my red lian-li fans to get rid of lol


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> The subject changed quickly here lol back on topic wgat sort of fans would you guys reccommend for my kuhler 620 for a good push/pull config ?
> 
> Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


I have a pair of these on my 920 (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-057-AK) there pretty good. dont know what there like compared to the sp120 silents tho.


----------



## par

i'm thinking about a test..

if I connect the pump at lamptron touch for downvolt the pump, there is risk about damaging pump or lamptron?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> I have a pair of these on my 920 (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-057-AK) there pretty good. dont know what there like compared to the sp120 silents tho.


Those are epicly good fans too!


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> You're* misinterpreting my statements. Also, I see no reason to apologize*. TD is a goof though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll give you the You're* but its actually apologise.
> 
> Apologise
Click to expand...

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Demoscraft*
> 
> I'll give you the You're* but its actually apologise.
> 
> Apologise
> 
> 
> 
> apol·o·gise
> 
> Definition of APOLOGISE
> 
> British variant of apologize
> 
> apol·o·gize
> 
> : to make an apology
> 
> Merriam-Webster trumps thefreedictionary.
Click to expand...

Suckah!


----------



## NIK1

I would like to replace the stock fans on my Antec Kühler H2O 920.I read on this site the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition is good.What about the Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition.Anyone know the differance between these two fans.Also,will the Antec chill control still be able to control the fan speed with the corsair ones installed.If there are better and quieter ones please let me know what is the best to get.Thanks..


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Those are epicly good fans too!


yer they are pretty good. push a tone of air and are pretty quiet and for around £10 you cant really go wrong.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I would like to replace the stock fans on my Antec Kühler H2O 920.I read on this site the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition is good.What about the Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition.Anyone know the differance between these two fans.Also,will the Antec chill control still be able to control the fan speed with the corsair ones installed.If there are better and quieter ones please let me know what is the best to get.Thanks..


The difference between the sp120 quiets and the sp120 performance is just the RPM as far as i am aware.

Performance

Both are size 120mm x 25mm and operate between 7V - 12V volts

Performance at 12V...SP120 HP................Sp120 QE
Airflow.......................62.74 CFM...............37.85 CFM
Static Pressure...........3.1 mm/H20............1.29 mm/H20
Sound Level...............35 dBA......................23 dBA
Speed........................2350 RPM...............1450 RPM
Power Draw...............0.18 A.......................0.08 A

I would personally go for the Quiet edition if i were you


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I would like to replace the stock fans on my Antec Kühler H2O 920.I read on this site the Corsair SP120 Quiet Edition is good.What about the Corsair SP120 High Performance Edition.Anyone know the differance between these two fans.Also,will the Antec chill control still be able to control the fan speed with the corsair ones installed.If there are better and quieter ones please let me know what is the best to get.Thanks..


No you cannot control the new fans with your software. You need 4-pin PWM fans


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Those are epicly good fans too!


looking over the specs on those fans , look very nice , but the static pressure rating seems odd ,

Max static air pressure 26.40 mm-H2O

thats really high for a quiet fan , thats more in the delta high speed fan range running at 5000 rpm

unless i am missing something ,


----------



## DrPhD

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Antec*
> At this point the cooler should be replaced. I have heard from some people, that placing a magnet on top of the pump in the center resolved the clicking noise for them. This could be a last resort, but I have no confirmation that this really works.
> 
> Regards,
> 
> Antec Customer Support


Damn it.


----------



## NIK1

What about Antecs true and quiet fans.Antec's TrueQuiet fans bring proven cooling and Quiet Computing™ to your system. Constructed for versatility, TrueQuiet fans include a convenient 2-speed switch that allows you to easily choose either silent or maximum RPM cooling. Because a functional computer relies on more than just cooling, TrueQuiet is equipped with silicone grommets and a uniquely-designed fan blade to reduce turbulence, vibration and noise for overall quiet operation. TrueQuiet comes in two models, 120 mm and 140 mm fan, and is backed by a 2-year limited warranty on parts and labor. Upgrade your fans and add optimal cooling and functionality to your PC with TrueQuiet. Features:

Speed

Low 600RPM

High 1000RPM

Input Current

0.06A

0.12A

Air Flow

0.6m³ / min
(21.5 CFM)

1.0m³ / min
(35.8 CFM)

Static Pressure

0.27 mm-H2O
(0.01inch-H2O)

0.76 mm-H2O
(0.03inch-H2O)

Noise

8.9 dBA

19.9 dBA

Input Power

0.72 W

1.44 W

•2-way switch to select fan speed
•unique fan blade and silicone grommets to reduce turbulence and noise
•tool-less mounting screws for quick and easy installation
•Dimensions
- 120 mm (H) x 120 mm (W) x 25 mm (D)
- 4.7" (H) x 4.7" (W) x 1.0" (D)
•Package Dimensions
- 270 mm (H) x 200 mm (W) x 37 mm (D)
- 10.6" (H) x 7.9" (W) x 1.5" (D)
•Weight
- Net : 138.9 g / 4.9 oz
- Gross : 204.1 g / 7.2 oz


----------



## Falmod

Will still probs go for the Corsairs seem to be best bang for my money but will also look at the Asaka fans, Read reviews etc to see how others find them


----------



## M3TAl

Swiftech Helix or Cougar Vortex PWM


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> looking over the specs on those fans , look very nice , but the static pressure rating seems odd ,
> 
> Max static air pressure 26.40 mm-H2O
> 
> thats really high for a quiet fan , thats more in the delta high speed fan range running at 5000 rpm
> 
> unless i am missing something ,


yer that didnt seem right. i had a look on the official akasa website that says Max static air pressure - 2.64 mm H2O, sounds more realistic


----------



## par

uppppp








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> i'm thinking about a test..
> 
> if I connect the pump at lamptron touch for downvolt the pump, there is risk about damaging pump or lamptron?


----------



## 8bitG33k

In regards to the many issues people seem to be having with the Software, I'm surprised there isn't a third party solution out there yet.

Or is there?


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> uppppp


You would not want to do that, you want to keep the flow rate at max.


----------



## sylock232

Just got the 920!

Just a quick question though. My average temperature on silent is around 39 degrees.
I have 4 fans including the ones that antec gave me.
Now I'm wondering if my product is faulty or if the hot temperature in my area (35 degrees) is ramping up the temperature

+

What settings should I put for the Chill software?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> Just got the 920!
> 
> Just a quick question though. My average temperature on silent is around 39 degrees.
> I have 4 fans including the ones that antec gave me.
> Now I'm wondering if my product is faulty or if the hot temperature in my area (35 degrees) is ramping up the temperature
> 
> +
> 
> What settings should I put for the Chill software?


You have to set it to whatever your CPU does really. It is a case by case basis.
I do suggest a custom fan profile.


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You have to set it to whatever your CPU does really. It is a case by case basis.
> I do suggest a custom fan profile.


well my cpu is just running at 4.2ghz... I have no clue how to set everything up D:



I'm getting this problem trying to install chill software version 1.3....... help?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> Just got the 920!
> 
> Just a quick question though. My average temperature on silent is around 39 degrees.
> I have 4 fans including the ones that antec gave me.
> Now I'm wondering if my product is faulty or if the hot temperature in my area (35 degrees) is ramping up the temperature


If it's 35 outside what is it inside your room?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> well my cpu is just running at 4.2ghz... I have no clue how to set everything up D:
> 
> 
> 
> I'm getting this problem trying to install chill software version 1.3....... help?


Several people have reported problems with 1.3 in this thread. Stick with 1.2 for now.


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If it's 35 outside what is it inside your room?


its like 30 degrees lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Several people have reported problems with 1.3 in this thread. Stick with 1.2 for now.


yup. ran CCleaner, removed everything and re-installed 1.2

edit: after 1 hour of running my computer (just Google Chrome), my average temperature has jumped up to 41 degrees.,. oh lawd I think I'm going to have to run extreme the whole day

second ninja edit: after running extreme for 5 minutes.... temperature is back down to 39.... hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm


----------



## M3TAl

Well if other 920 owners with 3770k's running similar voltage can tell you how many degrees over ambient they run, then we'll know if your 920 is running properly.


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well if other 920 owners with 3770k's running similar voltage can tell you how many degrees over ambient they run, then we'll know if your 920 is running properly.


I'm just running stock voltages on asrock's settings.
I'm beginning to think its the dual gfx card making it heat up


----------



## M3TAl

Well I can tell you my 955 at 4ghz 1.456V with a ~25C ambient runs 37-38C cores. This is on a 620 with push/pull Cougar Vortex PWM's at 1100rpm. Max rpm is 1500.

If I go to power saver (800mhz 1.072V) I get 32-33C.


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> You would not want to do that, you want to keep the flow rate at max.


No, you're not well informed. I want it to be quieter.









Thanks for the reply mate









I am not satisfied about the noise of the pump. I saw the video of Asetek, and is a good solution. But I think my pump works well, and the noise that it emits, is the normal operating noise. I must say that it's a slight noise, but this is the only sound that emits my computer, so it's a little annoying.

So I thought to do a test, downvolting the pump .. I do not extreme overclock, and in case, I prefer to lose a bit of thermal performance and be satisfied about the noise..

So, I up my question








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> i'm thinking about a test..
> 
> if I connect the pump at lamptron touch for downvolt the pump, there is risk about damaging pump or lamptron?


----------



## M3TAl

Typically these pumps get louder when you down volt them and I can't hear my pump at all.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> I'm just running stock voltages on asrock's settings.
> I'm beginning to think its the dual gfx card making it heat up


So you are running a stock 3770k at stock volts then?
What are the temps of the dual gfx cards then?
Also you could try remounting the kuhler and using some decent thermal paste always helps i find.


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> So you are running a stock 3770k at stock volts then?
> What are the temps of the dual gfx cards then?
> Also you could try remounting the kuhler and using some decent thermal paste always helps i find.


I removed one graphics card, same problem. I'm using some "decent" thermal paste that people suggested on this forum (forgot the name lol)

edit: fixed the problem! checking my hdd and saw it had alot of errors so I removed the HDD and put a new one in and BAM 30 degrees ...

Now for the new software problem haha


----------



## M3TAl

How does a corrupt hdd cause high cpu temps?


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How does a corrupt hdd cause high cpu temps?


idk but I think I plugged everything in wrong...... truthfully i have no clue how i fixed it as well haha pure luck?


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> idk but I think I plugged everything in wrong...... truthfully i have no clue how i fixed it as well haha pure luck?


lol, Well as long as its working its all good at least for the moment


----------



## Totally Dubbed

HDD does NOT affect CPU temps.
Might be down toa few things:
1. You said you are on 4.2ghz
2. What voltages are you running at?
3. 40c idle are normal, depending on load. After I've been folding for say 6hrs, my temps are naturally going to be high, due to the high liquid temperature
4, Which leads me to what is your liquid temperatures?
5. What fans are you running? and What RPM are they running at? More so how are they ramping?

I feel I'm having bad temps for my given voltage and my chip...I'm hitting 75c AFTER being de-lidded with CLU. I used to be hitting 92c.


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> I removed one graphics card, same problem. I'm using some "decent" thermal paste that people suggested on this forum (forgot the name lol)
> 
> edit: fixed the problem! checking my hdd and saw it had alot of errors so I removed the HDD and put a new one in and BAM 30 degrees ...
> 
> Now for the new software problem haha


i have no idea how a failed hdd would affect temps (unless you put it on top of your gpu and some how over volted your hdd).
Well i shall take your word for it that you are running some decent TIM and that no one on this forum pointed you in the wrong direction for new TIM. However i would still remount just to make sure that the mount is not the key factor in some bad temps.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> HDD does NOT affect CPU temps.
> Might be down toa few things:
> 1. You said you are on 4.2ghz
> 2. What voltages are you running at?
> 3. 40c idle are normal, depending on load. After I've been folding for say 6hrs, my temps are naturally going to be high, due to the high liquid temperature
> 4, Which leads me to what is your liquid temperatures?
> 5. What fans are you running? and What RPM are they running at? More so how are they ramping?
> 
> I feel I'm having bad temps for my given voltage and my chip...I'm hitting 75c AFTER being de-lidded with CLU. I used to be hitting 92c.


i concur with totally dubbed, we need to know what volts you are running to be able to justifiably tell you if your temps are ok.

Although take what i have said with a pinch of salt, i have been on a night out and drinking since 2pm (its currently 4.23am) watching the 6 nations.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> i have been on a night out and drinking since 2pm (its currently 4.23am) watching the 6 nations.


Good man


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> HDD does NOT affect CPU temps.
> Might be down toa few things:
> 1. You said you are on 4.2ghz
> 2. What voltages are you running at?
> 3. 40c idle are normal, depending on load. After I've been folding for say 6hrs, my temps are naturally going to be high, due to the high liquid temperature
> 4, Which leads me to what is your liquid temperatures?
> 5. What fans are you running? and What RPM are they running at? More so how are they ramping?
> 
> I feel I'm having bad temps for my given voltage and my chip...I'm hitting 75c AFTER being de-lidded with CLU. I used to be hitting 92c.


2. stock voltage. not at home atm but will edit when I get there.
3. my computer is on roughly 10 hours a day rendering
4. around 40 degrees.
5. 1200 rpm for the fans provided with the cooler + the fans from the case

I too am curious how removing my HDD fixed the temperature issues.....
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> i have no idea how a failed hdd would affect temps (unless you put it on top of your gpu and some how over volted your hdd).
> Well i shall take your word for it that you are running some decent TIM and that no one on this forum pointed you in the wrong direction for new TIM. However i would still remount just to make sure that the mount is not the key factor in some bad temps.
> i concur with totally dubbed, we need to know what volts you are running to be able to justifiably tell you if your temps are ok.
> 
> Although take what i have said with a pinch of salt, i have been on a night out and drinking since 2pm (its currently 4.23am) watching the 6 nations.


like I said, I'll post the voltages up when I get home but I've only changed the settings to "turbo 4.2ghz" from the asrock motherboard default settings... D:


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Good man


Jesus Christ my head hurts now

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> 2. stock voltage. not at home atm but will edit when I get there.
> 3. my computer is on roughly 10 hours a day rendering
> 4. around 40 degrees.
> 5. 1200 rpm for the fans provided with the cooler + the fans from the case
> 
> I too am curious how removing my HDD fixed the temperature issues.....
> like I said, I'll post the voltages up when I get home but I've only changed the settings to "turbo 4.2ghz" from the asrock motherboard default settings... D:


a lot of the time with these auto over clocks they add way too much voltage to the cpu to get the overclocks. with a manual overclock you could use a lot less voltage. As we all know more voltage = more heat.

i would also look at getting a couple of better fans for the radiator. the ones supplied while effective can get quite loud, you can buy some that are more effective at a lower RPM and are more quiet.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Absolutely agree. The auto on my friend's 4.2 ghz company overclock, was done via offset set to auto. His voltage was at 1.32...that's too high. But I didn't touch his pc, as he didn't want me to and I can't be asked to help someone who can't help me when I'm in need


----------



## 8bitG33k

Finally got my 920 installed last night.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Had a heart-stopping 5 mins after putting everything back together and I hit the power button and my rig went into a boot-shutdown loop. Turned out to be a matter of which USB header on my board I had the 920 plugged into. USB header 3 on my board and it would go into an uncontrolled boot/ shutdown cycle. USB header 2 turned out to work fine. Didn't try out 1.

Not at all impressed with temps so far tbh. Idle temps are about the same if not 3-4C higher than from the aircooler I was using before (SD1283 Dark Knight). But I haven't done any overclocking with the 920 yet so it may be that my prev 98C oc'd with the SD1283 will come down a bit. The liquid temps being monitored vs the CPU temp will take a little getting used to (for example how high above CPU Temp will the Liquid Temp rise on average, when idle, when oc'd etc). And it may be a matter of letting the TIM (MX-5) burn in over a few days.

Noise levels are same as they were before when running the Blademaster fan with the SD1283 aircooler, meaning pretty much silent.

In terms of aesthetics it's an improvement the 920 looks badass, although I favor performance over looks.

I didn't even bother installing the stock Antec fans that came with the unit, I just used a couple 120's I had lying around from previous projects. Currently I'm running a Coolermaster (Blademaster R4, pull) and a Bitfenix Spectre (push) until I make a final decision which fans to use.

On that note: question for you Corsair SP120 users: Aren't those 3-pin fans? So there is no PWM control?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Good installation









As for the SP's yes they are 3pin PWM - and thus I plugged them into the motherboard and let the motherboard control their speeds. They won't work properly in the antec splitter.

Also make sure your fan configuration IS in push pull







!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^Good installation
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> As for the SP's yes they are 3pin PWM - and thus I plugged them into the motherboard and let the motherboard control their speeds. They won't work properly in the antec splitter.


I suppose in that scenario there is really no reason to install the Chill software other than to make sure the pump is working and checking the liquid temps. In other words at this point it's not a necessity but purely optional.

And on a side note, I guess it's time to get a Y-splitter.

Quote:


> Also make sure your fan configuration IS in push pull
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Yep.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I suppose in that scenario there is really no reason to install the Chill software other than to make sure the pump is working and checking the liquid temps. In other words at this point it's not a necessity but purely optional.
> 
> And on a side note, I guess it's time to get a Y-splitter.
> Yep.


Do you really need a Y splitter?
I preferred having both fans on two separate motherboard headers.

As for the Antec software - I would really suggest getting it ONLY for the monitoring of your liquid temperatures and knowing your pump is working








I have it disabled now on startup (the program) however open it up when I'm folding to make sure the liquid temperature isn't going high.
So far my max liquid temperature has been 46c


----------



## 8bitG33k

Yeah, I prefer having the ability to control both fans from one header. Otherwise I'd have to configure them independently and that might just turn out to be a pain in the neck.

My max liquid temps have been around 36-37 so far, with CPU temp 61. Idle is liquid ~31, CPU ~34.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Yeah, I prefer having the ability to control both fans from one header. Otherwise I'd have to configure them independently and that might just turn out to be a pain in the neck.
> 
> My max liquid temps have been around 36-37 so far, with CPU temp 61. Idle is liquid ~31, CPU ~34.


make SURE that it is a 3pin female, leading to 2x 3 pin MALES -> most of them have 1x 3pin and 1x 2 pin


----------



## 8bitG33k

EDIT: This particular splitter is capable of controlling the speeds of both attached fans while reading the speeds off one of them. But it seems you have to clip one of the RPM sensing wires because both ends have 4 wires, meaning there are two wires to sense fan speeds, one for each fan. And that will just not work unless you are ok with erratic fan speeds being displayed.


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Absolutely agree. The auto on my friend's 4.2 ghz company overclock, was done via offset set to auto. His voltage was at 1.32...that's too high. But I didn't touch his pc, as he didn't want me to and I can't be asked to help someone who can't help me when I'm in need


I had a quick look and the voltage seems to be set at around 1.2.

I left a video to render on After Effects last night (8 hour render), woke up to this. I don't think I'll have to change the fans haha loud fans dont bother me


----------



## 8bitG33k

Can you help me identify this noise please? It's definitely coming from the pump - should I be worried?

http://s1108.beta.photobucket.com/user/kreims/media/VID_20130210_210233_zps04d178e1.mp4.html

EDIT: Ok I guess it's just airbubbles as noted in the OP. I've been running this for a good day so I was surprised when this started.


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Can you help me identify this noise please? It's definitely coming from the pump - should I be worried?
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> http://s1108.beta.photobucket.com/user/kreims/media/VID_20130210_210233_zps04d178e1.mp4.html


are your pumps bent? mine made that sound when I first installed it with both pumps bent. try straightening them out

edit: tubes*


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> are your pumps bent? mine made that sound when I first installed it with both pumps bent. try straightening them out


Sorry, not sure what you mean by pumps? You mean the tubes? No, they're not. And this rattling noise is def coming from the pump.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't think mine has ever made that noise before. Only time it did make noise was when I was moving the rad around in every possible case position and fan positions to test them all.

Must of been a ton of air trapped in my pump it made really loud swooshing noises for maybe ~5min but it went away and never came back.


----------



## 8bitG33k

After watching the video Totally Dubbed put in his OP I'm fairly certain it is only air. The noise sounds very similar.

On a side note I just ordered a pair of Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B12-P as replacement fans.


----------



## M3TAl

I just randomly ordered two Swiftech Helix's for 5.99 each while pre-ordering Steven Wilson's The Raven That Refused To Sing on Amazon. Had to get that free super saving shipping.


----------



## Koosler

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dezmick*
> 
> I am getting ready to build the system that is displayed, i currently have a V8 and am just wanting to know if the H20 620 would be a better option in my Silverstone FT02B-W, i will be building the computer next weekend, and i can still take my V8 back and get something else i just want to make sure that what i will be getting will be and upgrade, and i would like to know if i made it a push pull unit with the air being exhausted out the top of the case if that would work best for the H20 620. Thanks


Hi there i would recommend to stick to the CM V8 the temps is about the same in some cases the v8 out performes most of the liquid cooling units. If your looking for the silent treatment then i would recommend the 620 or 920 over the v8 but performance/temp drops you wont gain infact you might lose a degree or two especially at heavy loads.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Thought to chime something in:
I put my I7 on my new bite sized PC rig.
It has the stock antec cooler, with stock paste, and my i7 is de-lidded.

Temps?
30-35c idle

60c on load

This is on STOCK voltages and STOCK clocks - which is : 1.092v on load (P95) running @ 3.7ghz

My Antec 920 wasn't doing that much better.
So I'm going to RMA my Antec 920 - just not performing as it should...as I've been always contemplating. Finally I can put my thoughts to rest - as if a stock intel cooler can almost do as good as a liquid cooler with 2 fans and a rad...then something clearly isn't right.

Will update when I get more info etc


----------



## tdrloux

I am thinking about change my coolers for a cougar vortex 120mm fan. But this fan is 3-pin, can I plug it to the block like the antec fans?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Thought to chime something in:
> I put my I7 on my new bite sized PC rig.
> It has the stock antec cooler, with stock paste, and my i7 is de-lidded.
> 
> Temps?
> 30-35c idle
> 
> 60c on load
> 
> This is on STOCK voltages and STOCK clocks - which is : 1.092v on load (P95) running @ 3.7ghz
> 
> My Antec 920 wasn't doing that much better.
> So I'm going to RMA my Antec 920 - just not performing as it should...as I've been always contemplating. Finally I can put my thoughts to rest - as if a stock intel cooler can almost do as good as a liquid cooler with 2 fans and a rad...then something clearly isn't right.
> 
> Will update when I get more info etc


Yes, keep us posted! I'm haven't been impressed with the performance of my 920 either, as stated in an earlier post (ie, slightly worse temps than my Xigmatek SD1283 aircooler).


----------



## M3TAl

Yes and no... If you void the warranty on your kuhler and clip off the side of the connector then yes you can connect it. Or get a splitter cable 3-pin to 4-pin. Also you could just plug the fans into the motherboard.

My Cougars are connected to my fan controller. Before I had a fan controller I clipped all my molex to 3-pins like this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## M3TAl

Honestly you shouldn't expect temps the same as a high end air cooler, by high end I mean Noctua NH-D14 or any other air cooler that performs like the D14. If you want same or better temps you need a 240mm radiator AIO.

And Totally Dubbed considering you're delidded isn't it absolutely critical to get proper mount pressure? I thought it was much more difficult getting proper mount pressure when dellidded without cracking the die or on the other hand too little pressure resulting in poor temps.


----------



## Koosler

Yeah maybe look at other fans. Me on the other hand had problems with installing other fans i did a push pull config with aerocool shark blades and it didn't work out to great as it put out heat on the rad and i almost lost my cpu the temps were on idle 35c and on load 55c with my cpu overclocked to 4.28ghz(8120 fx amd) didnt change the voltage only the multiplier. With the stock fan setup i get 30c on idle and on load 51c. This was just my xp with changing out fans think the shark blades are crappy fans or i did something wrong in my airflow. Im running in a raidmax case there isn't alot of room for alot of fans 1x 120mm at the front 1x 80mm on the side and now the rad with one fan in pull at the back.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I didn't expect a miraculous drop in temperature that's for sure. But I certainly didn't expect them to be any worse. I expected slightly better temps at a lower noise level. Instead it's the other way around.

EDIT: to be fair I do need to add that my previous load temps oc'd to 4.5 got up to 98 - can't remember what the voltage was though as this was an Auto Overclock when I was test driving my boards EZ Tune utility. Now with the vcore at 1.3v my temps are hitting ~76.


----------



## M3TAl

Try to figure out what your ambient is and test different fans using the same test procedure. I run Prime95 Blend for 20min. On my 620 I dropped my load temp ~2C going from single Antec fan to Push/Pull Cougar Vortex PWM, oh and a lot quieter.


----------



## SeD669

Hey so I tried to connect a NF-F12 fan to my H20 620 instead of the stock and the 3 pin does not connect to the 4 pin...
I'm a complete newb so I'm obviously doing something wrong. I thought maybe an adapter is needed?


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes and no... If you void the warranty on your kuhler and clip off the side of the connector then yes you can connect it. *Or get a splitter cable 3-pin to 4-pin*. Also you could just plug the fans into the motherboard.
> 
> My Cougars are connected to my fan controller. Before I had a fan controller I clipped all my molex to 3-pins like this:
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


The cougar vortex fan comes with this splitter cable 3-pin to 4-pin, can I conect this to the block?
After connect the fans cougar can I control it rpm by using the antec software?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

If a fan is a e pin fan, even with an adapter MIGHT not work as a fully pwm fan. Be warned about that!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Totally Dubbed, in regards to your findings when using the Intel Stock Cooler, what was your average RPM when using the SP120's on your 920? Reason I'm asking is because I am trying to figure out why my radiator's performance is so mediocre and I am considering rpm might be the reason. Apparently not all fans are created equal when it comes to being mounted on a radiator.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Totally Dubbed, in regards to your findings when using the Intel Stock Cooler, what was your average RPM when using the SP120's on your 920? Reason I'm asking is because I am trying to figure out why my radiator's performance is so mediocre and I am considering rpm might be the reason. Apparently not all fans are created equal when it comes to being mounted on a radiator.


on idle (no load) around 800-900 RPM
On load (folding or P95) around 1200-1300 RPM

Its max is 1500RPM - for some reason it never achieved 15000RPM unless it was plugged into the antec splitter which would ram it to its max and not ramp down.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> on idle (no load) around 800-900 RPM
> On load (folding or P95) around 1200-1300 RPM
> 
> Its max is 1500RPM - for some reason it never achieved 15000RPM unless it was plugged into the antec splitter which would ram it to its max and not ramp down.


Ok. Do you remember any difference in temps with the stock Antec fans? editsorry if this info is already posted somewhere in this thread or the op even)


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If a fan is a e pin fan, even with an adapter MIGHT not work as a fully pwm fan. Be warned about that!


To garante I need a good fan 4 -pin, someone recomend?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Ok. Do you remember any difference in temps with the stock Antec fans? editsorry if this info is already posted somewhere in this thread or the op even)


Same temps really - but the SP120's not only are quieter but also run at a lower RPM -> thus mean they are quieter fans overall. ESPECIALLY on load.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> To garante I need a good fan 4 -pin, someone recomend?


I don't know any myself sorry!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> The cougar vortex fan comes with this splitter cable 3-pin to 4-pin, can I conect this to the block?
> After connect the fans cougar can I control it rpm by using the antec software?


Newegg lists the cougar vortex as being a 4pin PWM with a 4pin to 4pin molex adapter. In other words yes, you will be able to connect the fan to the Antec Kuhler and control it via the Chillcontrol software.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> To garante I need a good fan 4 -pin, someone recomend?


With these things it is often a trial and error process unfortunately and what works for one person may not work for another due to changing parameters and variables such as voltage and ensuing temperature as well as one's personal tolerance to noice levels.

A 3pin fan will work if you are willing to connect it directly to your motherboard instead of the Kuhler. This of course assumes your motherboard has enough 3/4 pin headers. If it does, you can either use your motherboards BIOS to control your fans - if supported by your motherboard - or a thirdparty software like Speedfan which is similar to the Antec software in that it allows you to control the fans from within Windows but is more detailed and with a steep learning curve.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Newegg lists the cougar vortex as being a 4pin PWM with a 4pin to 4pin molex adapter. In other words yes, you will be able to connect the fan to the Antec Kuhler and control it via the Chillcontrol software.
> With these things it is often a trial and error process unfortunately and what works for one person may not work for another due to changing parameters and variables such as voltage and ensuing temperature as well as one's personal tolerance to noice levels.
> 
> A 3pin fan will work if you are willing to connect it directly to your motherboard instead of the Kuhler. This of course assumes your motherboard has enough 3/4 pin headers. If it does, you can either use your motherboards BIOS to control your fans - if supported by your motherboard - or a thirdparty software like Speedfan which is similar to the Antec software in that it allows you to control the fans from within Windows but is more detailed and with a steep learning curve.


I should say speedfan didn't work with my SP120's either.

Really depends on the fans - I even emailed corsair about it, and they confirmed it wouldn't be PWM fully 4 pin compatible.
So depends on brand, pin structure etc.
Long story short, if you really want to control it via the software, get 4pin fans.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I should say speedfan didn't work with my SP120's either.
> 
> Really depends on the fans - I even emailed corsair about it, and they confirmed it wouldn't be PWM fully 4 pin compatible.
> So depends on brand, pin structure etc.
> Long story short, if you really want to control it via the software, get 4pin fans.


Thanks for summarizing it for me









I tend to get lost in the details most of the time


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> To garante I need a good fan 4 -pin, someone recomend?


http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-057-AK

those are on my 920 and there pretty badass, push a tone of air


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Those I've heard are great fans! I should have gotten them!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> The cougar vortex fan comes with this splitter cable 3-pin to 4-pin, can I conect this to the block?
> After connect the fans cougar can I control it rpm by using the antec software?


I think that splitter cable is a downvolt cable, 12v to 7v or maybe to 5v.


----------



## plywood99

You are NOT going to get the same amount of clamping pressure when you de-lid your cpu.....

You now have roughly an additional 2 millimeters of distance that the stock Antec bracket must make up for, and guess what, it won't.
You've lost clamping pressure now which will decrease performance.You would have to shim the mounting bracket to make up for the lost pressure.

For those wondering what fans work best and what not. There's a reason Antec went with the fans they did. 9 blade CFM monsters. It's because the rad has a very high fin density and you need a monster fan to force air through such a rad. Unfortunately monster fan = monster noise. That's the trade off.
Notice that the only difference you see between these OEM rebrands is the fans they chose to supply.
The 920 typically beats these rebrands by a few degrees, two or maybe three.
Why?
Because Antec went with those monster fans.
And one more thing, you can set up a fan profile that will give you within 5*C or so of top performance and still be pretty darn quiet, with the stock fans.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> You are NOT going to get the same amount of clamping pressure when you de-lid your cpu.....


This is what I was getting at.... How do you know your getting the proper mount pressure... Considering same temps as intel cooler it's easy to assume you're not getting the proper pressure.


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BranField*
> 
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-057-AK
> 
> those are on my 920 and there pretty badass, push a tone of air


Oh man, Thank you!

I will buy those fans!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> You are NOT going to get the same amount of clamping pressure when you de-lid your cpu.....
> 
> You now have roughly an additional 2 millimeters of distance that the stock Antec bracket must make up for, and guess what, it won't.
> You've lost clamping pressure now which will decrease performance.You would have to shim the mounting bracket to make up for the lost pressure.


As much as I would like to agree - explain my temps period to de-lidding then?
/the end

Antec is now in bits, ready to be RMA'ed I don't expect a 920 cooler to be at times out performed by a stock intel cooler.
Oh and FYI: Tested both on i3 and i7 - i3 is NOT de-lidded.

Some people jump to conclusions...


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As much as I would like to agree - explain my temps period to de-lidding then?
> /the end
> 
> Antec is now in bits, ready to be RMA'ed I don't expect a 920 cooler to be at times out performed by a stock intel cooler.
> Oh and FYI: Tested both on i3 and i7 - i3 is NOT de-lidded.
> 
> Some people jump to conclusions...


Not jumping to conclusions, what I stated is fact. It's your own failure. You modified something and then expect a product to perform on your modification when said product was never designed to do so.
You're the worst kind of consumer.


----------



## dmanstasiu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> As much as I would like to agree - explain my temps period to de-lidding then?
> /the end
> 
> Antec is now in bits, ready to be RMA'ed I don't expect a 920 cooler to be at times out performed by a stock intel cooler.
> Oh and FYI: Tested both on i3 and i7 - i3 is NOT de-lidded.
> 
> Some people jump to conclusions...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Not jumping to conclusions, what I stated is fact. It's your own failure. You modified something and then expect a product to perform on your modification when said product was never designed to do so.
> You're the worst kind of consumer.
Click to expand...

It was designed to cool a CPU. I fail to see how he modified his Kuhler 920 ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Not jumping to conclusions, what I stated is fact. It's your own failure. You modified something and then expect a product to perform on your modification when said product was never designed to do so.
> You're the worst kind of consumer.


wait how did I modify my i3? or my stock i7 (prior to de-lidding?)
You jump to conclusions and more so accuse people of doing things wrong.
This isn't the first time you've accused me - and later apologising for acting the way you did.

I highly suggest being a little more respectful to other members.
Be them pros or "noobs" at whatever they are doing.

I can guarantee you before I state things, I make sure I have done everything possible to test.
In this case - right now I'm typing from my i3 3225 with the stock cooler on it:
Temps on idle?
26-30c

What were my temps just prior to getting off the cooler?
20-27c

For me, a liquid cooler running at 3k pump speed, with 2 fans and a rad, should do better than that.
I even called scan a few weeks ago - the guy said to do what I did:
"put a stock cooler on it, if you don't see a dramatic change in temps, then feel free to send it back to us"

Now that's on idle - on load, I experienced the same sort of results.
Long story short: I'm RMA'ing it.

EDIT:
OH AND!
Before you say: "you changed the fans on your antec" - yeah sure I did - the stock antecs push less air @ 600RPM than my SP120's that run at 800-900RPM (both readings on idle) - so don't think of springing that upon me either









Anyway, enough of wasting my time - back to testing some more Asus related stuff


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Ohh, and Dubbed, I read your post. You're simply ignorant or lying.


Ignorant or lying? Lol
See ya!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> Dude what the hell is wrong with you. he's testing with an un-lidded i3. I hope you don't stick around


I'm getting confused with these un-lidded / de-lidded terminlologies haha!








I swear un-lidded is direct die?
de-lidded, is lid off, and lid back on

I know what you meant though just thought to clear it up for myself









Right I'm quite hungry - going to cook some steak...at 11pm


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Deman, do you think it would be worth putting them in the op for the antec thread? As I'm not sure it would apply, however a glossary of terms like cfm...wouldn't sound like a bad idea!

Steak will cook once the onions are done







! Pic to follow hehe


----------



## dmanstasiu

ermegerd put in some mushrooms too


----------



## tdrloux

Akasa Apache Black coming, i hope they will be more silent with the same performance


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I don't like mushrooms







!

Tdr, let us know how it goes, in the mean time try stressing your pc in order to give yourself a nice benchmark comparison







!
If you report good results, I might start a list of fans that are recommended in the op


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *tdrloux*
> 
> Akasa Apache Black coming, i hope they will be more silent with the same performance


my apache blacks generally idle around 600-900 rpm at 32-33c liquid temp on a 4.2oc 8150 at 1.25v so there pretty good imo


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Not a single steak was given that day:

http://instagram.com/p/VpqrKSywTy/


----------



## dmanstasiu

Why such a tiny steak ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

4 inches long and quite meaty!
And I had another one after that too.

That's what she said....Hahaha


----------



## BranField

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Not a single steak was given that day:
> 
> http://instagram.com/p/VpqrKSywTy/


3 plates for one meal, now thats what i call dinner


----------



## tdrloux

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't like mushrooms
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> 
> Tdr, let us know how it goes, in the mean time try stressing your pc in order to give yourself a nice benchmark comparison
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> If you report good results, I might start a list of fans that are recommended in the op


Ok, maybe the fans will be here in 3 days (i hope so), then i will make the comparison (i hope the apache's can do the same performance as the antec, but without noise)

Where your from ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Cool beans! If you ordered via ocuk, they'll be there within a day usually









I'm from London, Wimbledon


----------



## 8bitG33k

Been running p95 for 7+ hrs now @ 4.5GHz, Vcore set at ~1.245 -ish and average CPU temp is around 78c (min 60, max 89). Ambient (room) temp is abt 65F. (non- un-/de-lidded, lol)

Does that seem to hot using the 920?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Been running p95 for 7+ hrs now @ 4.5GHz, Vcore set at ~1.245 -ish and average CPU temp is around 78c (min 60, max 89). Ambient (room) temp is abt 65F. (non- un-/de-lidded, lol)
> 
> Does that seem to hot using the 920?


Your max core temp is 89c? That is definitely too hot for 4.5 and 1.25v and 18.3c room temp. Have you tried reinstalling it with some good TIM? The 920 should perform reasonably close to my cooler and I have slow fans running on mine. I would be below 80c under those conditions.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah mine ran at 92c lidded (lol) at 1.27 @ 4.5 gigaaaahertz


----------



## Maximization

looks like they are using the same technology like the Kulher,

I am really tempted, But what would i use all that graphical power for?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121717

But think of the power i would control to decimate opponents!!!!


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dmanstasiu*
> 
> ...Steak is a valid, and encouraged, meal that is appropriate any time of the day


True... but don't let my vegetarian girl friend catch me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> looks like they are using the same technology like the Kulher,
> 
> I am really tempted, But what would i use all that graphical power for?
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121717
> 
> But think of the power i would control to decimate opponents!!!!


Over-priced card IMO
but LAWL








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> True... but don't let my vegetarian girl friend catch me.


hahaha


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> Your max core temp is 89c? That is definitely too hot for 4.5 and 1.25v and 18.3c room temp. Have you tried reinstalling it with some good TIM? The 920 should perform reasonably close to my cooler and I have slow fans running on mine. I would be below 80c under those conditions.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yeah mine ran at 92c lidded (lol) at 1.27 @ 4.5 gigaaaahertz


So it is too hot even though this was only peak temp it achieved at one point? Typically I have been looking at this throughout the day:



I'll reseat the waterblock tomorrow in case I mounted it a bit slanted. Also gonna put the stock Antec Fans on there just to see if that does anything to lower temps. They might be loud but I'm guessing they're at least optimized for the radiator. I should prolly also mount my 212+ just see what my mileage is and get a better idea of my temp range. Unfortunately in my case that means completely removing the motherboard


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You jump to conclusions and more so accuse people of doing things wrong.
> This isn't the first time you've accused me - and later apologising for acting the way you did.


Actually I never apologised for any such thing.
I have the PM's right here Dubbed.

And the fact that you bring things (and apparently imagined things) shared in private messages into this thread shows just what a sad sad person you really are.

So yeah, please do de-lid your CPU then complain of the Antec unit (which has a solid stop by the way, not spring loaded like the stock Intel heatsink) getting "bad" temps and then RMA'ing it.
Which will do nothing but cost consumers money at the expense of your failure to understand logic and basic mechanics.

Is it time to fetch the mods on me again Dubbed?
Is my stating facts hurting your little feelings again?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Even *if* anyone here missed something and made a mistake, you can't attack people like that. Unless you have something constructive to contribute, don't post. The way you are conducting yourself reflects far more negatively on you, than a potential error on Totally Dubbed's part.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Is it time to fetch the mods on me again Dubbed?
> Is my stating facts hurting your little feelings again?


The fact is you're disrespectful - and of course, this community is supposed to be a friendly non-aggressive community. If the mods needs to whittle down through your posts to see that you aren't compiling to the TOS or rules - then sure I'll "fetch them" again.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Even *if* anyone here missed something and made a mistake, you can't attack people like that. Unless you have something constructive to contribute, don't post. The way you are conducting yourself reflects far more negatively on you, than a potential error on Totally Dubbed's part.


Amen to that.
8bit I'll let you know my results when i get the RMA'ed antec back







!

In other news:
RMA set up with Scan


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> So it is too hot even though this was only peak temp it achieved at one point? Typically I have been looking at this throughout the day:


"only peak temp"
The maximum temp of your hottest core is the thing you need to be concerned about. Your room is so cold that you should be under 80c with your setup in my opinion. My wife would never let me set the heater as low as 65F.









Take pictures of the TIM fingerprint on your cooler and on your IHS when you take it off. You may have to try a few times with applying just the right amount of TIM to get the best results. Keep track of your temps with each attempt, and take pictures so you can better figure out what works best.

Every time people post in forums I see different opinions about TIM - too much, too little, line method, one drop method, tightened the cooler too lose, to tight, or not level, etc. Since I think we are all building our own computers here, taking the time to test out TIM and cooler placement is more than worthwhile. Once you figure out what works best you don't have to worry about it again.


----------



## Maximization

ANTEC OR DEATH!!!!!

thats a joke of course i would much rather have my antec then death


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Absolutely agree with just an old man.


----------



## Maximization

I did the even spread with credit card on my opteron 185 back in 2004 with artic silver. It still works fine with mild overclock @ 2.8 ghz. It only matters when it goops around the sockets and seeps down into the contact plane causing shorts and stuff.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I would do the spread method personally. As I did that on my old e6500, and the way it spread out was too much and not well done (maybe that's just me being a noob lol)
Pea sized was almost nothing left.
However, mini line method seems to work best for me and is even recommended by arctic


----------



## 8bitG33k

Thanks for the input. TIM application (amount) is one potential issues I was going to start ruling out over the next few days. I used a pea-sized amount, line method. Age of the MX5 (3 years) is another potential cause. And of course the afore mentioned possibility of the waterblock being seated improperly is another possible cause. After installing everything and hitting the power button, my rig wouldn't POST. It later turned out that my board would not accept the Kuhler being plugged into one of the 3 USB headers. The first thing I checked however was if I had damaged any CPU pins during installation, which means that I removed the waterblock. And it is possible that I may have mounted it slightly 'crooked' when tightening the screws back in.

Aside of user error, it just might be the unit itself. When unboxing the 920 I did find this scratch on the block. It doesn't look as bad in the picture as it does when looking at it directly.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Thanks for the input. TIM application (amount) is one potential issues I was going to start ruling out over the next few days. I used a pea-sized amount, line method. Age of the MX5 (3 years) is another potential cause. And of course the afore mentioned possibility of the waterblock being seated improperly is another possible cause. After installing everything and hitting the power button, my rig wouldn't POST. It later turned out that my board would not accept the Kuhler being plugged into one of the 3 USB headers. The first thing I checked however was if I had damaged any CPU pins during installation, which means that I removed the waterblock. And it is possible that I may have mounted it slightly 'crooked' when tightening the screws back in.
> 
> Aside of user error, it just might be the unit itself. When unboxing the 920 I did find this scratch on the block. It doesn't look as bad in the picture as it does when looking at it directly.


NO WAY!
http://www.overclock.net/t/1350571/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-stock-paste-removal-and-replacement-an-interesting-discovery

Check that thread I posted.
I have the EXACT same scratch - could you take a few more pics?

Seems like we are the only two to have noticed that scratch, and both of us aren't getting great temps.
Could this be the reason?

Can't wait to see if mine gets replaced or not - in order to fully understand if those temps are affected by that scratch.
PS. quite a few people told me it was due to my application on the CPU - but I would have known if I was damaging the antec


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> NO WAY!
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1350571/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-stock-paste-removal-and-replacement-an-interesting-discovery
> 
> Check that thread I posted.
> I have the EXACT same scratch - could you take a few more pics?
> 
> Seems like we are the only two to have noticed that scratch, and both of us aren't getting great temps.
> Could this be the reason?











Quote:


> Can't wait to see if mine gets replaced or not - in order to fully understand if those temps are affected by that scratch.
> PS. quite a few people told me it was due to my application on the CPU - but I would have known if I was damaging the antec


The scratch was already there and the first thing I noticed when I unboxed it. I always visually inspect everything first.

I'll be taking more pics. But realistically I wont get around to taking it out until this weekend.

EDIT: And yeah, I used WAY less TIM than what's in the pics you have posted in that thread there (for whatever this info is worth, lol). As I understand it, you only use enough to compensate for the nooks and crannies on the lid and the bottom of the copper.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The scratch was already there and the first thing I noticed when I unboxed it. I always visually inspect everything first.
> 
> I'll be taking more pics. But realistically I wont get around to taking it out until this weekend.
> 
> EDIT: And yeah, I used WAY less TIM than what's in the pics you have posted in that thread there (for whatever this info is worth, lol). As I understand it, you only use enough to compensate for the nooks and crannies on the lid and the bottom of the copper.


That's indeed right.
And interesting...!


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> EDIT: And yeah, I used WAY less TIM than what's in the pics you have posted in that thread there (for whatever this info is worth, lol). As I understand it, you only use enough to compensate for the nooks and crannies on the lid and the bottom of the copper.


Theoretically yes, but that would only apply if the cold plate of your cooler and your IHS are flat. Neither of them are, and no two are exactly the same. Spend a little time trying three levels, a very small amount, medium, and a little too much. See what your temps are. It doesn't take that much time. You can also try rotating your cooler 90 or even 180 degrees to see if that makes any difference. It made a 10c difference on mine.


----------



## jperz09

Since it looks like we're on the topic of temps, I seem to be having a little issue. My core temps at idle, IMO, are fantastic. 18c-20c at idle, and when i use the computer for anything, even games, the core temp never goes over 34c. The computer is very stable, it's never crashed on me with the overclock settings I'm using.

The issue I'm having is that, when i stress test it with anything (I use IBT, P95, and the AMD overdrive test) I can never let the test run longer than probably 5 minutes. My core temp will get up to 61c (AMDs safe temp for my processor is 62c) and the socket temp get up to almost 80c. and at that point my CPU starts to throttle (not sure if the CPU is doing it or the MoBo) so i stop the testing, because i feel if it's throttling, then the test wouldn't be accurate anyway.

I've tried all sorts of things...I've re-seated the water block, multiple times, with different amounts of TIM each time. I added better fans the the radiator (Noctua's with 2.61 SP) But the one constant thing with the Kuhler is the placement. I have it installed in my 5.25'' bay area. I bought my case before i bought the Kuhler, and its the only place i could get it to fit. So until i get a new case, that's where it's staying. But i couldn't install the rad the way the directions recommend, where the tubes connect at the bottom. The tubes are on the side. If you don't understand what I mean i can take a picture later, I'm at work right now) So I'm wondering if I'm not getting the flow i should be getting because of placement. What do you guys think?

My system.
Chip - FX-8350 @ 4.6Ghz with all energy saving settings disabled...212mhz x 22
HT link - 2339mhz
Vcore - 1.392
Mobo - ASUS M5A99X EVO R2 - BIOS v.0601
Ram - Corsair Vengence 12800
Video - AMD Radeon HD6670
PSU - Corsair GS600
Cooling - Antec 920 Kuhler with Noctua NF-F12 fans to replace stock antec fans, also using Arctic Silver 5

Thanks in advance.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jperz09*
> 
> Since it looks like we're on the topic of temps, I seem to be having a little issue. My core temps at idle, IMO, are fantastic. 18c-20c at idle, and when i use the computer for anything, even games, the core temp never goes over 34c. The computer is very stable, it's never crashed on me with the overclock settings I'm using.
> 
> The issue I'm having is that, when i stress test it with anything (I use IBT, P95, and the AMD overdrive test) I can never let the test run longer than probably 5 minutes. My core temp will get up to 61c (AMDs safe temp for my processor is 62c) and the socket temp get up to almost 80c. and at that point my CPU starts to throttle (not sure if the CPU is doing it or the MoBo) so i stop the testing, because i feel if it's throttling, then the test wouldn't be accurate anyway.
> 
> I've tried all sorts of things...I've re-seated the water block, multiple times, with different amounts of TIM each time. I added better fans the the radiator (Noctua's with 2.61 SP) But the one constant thing with the Kuhler is the placement. I have it installed in my 5.25'' bay area. I bought my case before i bought the Kuhler, and its the only place i could get it to fit. So until i get a new case, that's where it's staying. But i couldn't install the rad the way the directions recommend, where the tubes connect at the bottom. The tubes are on the side. If you don't understand what I mean i can take a picture later, I'm at work right now) So I'm wondering if I'm not getting the flow i should be getting because of placement. What do you guys think?
> 
> My system.
> Chip - FX-8350 @ 4.6Ghz with all energy saving settings disabled...212mhz x 22
> HT link - 2339mhz
> Vcore - 1.392
> Mobo - ASUS M5A99X EVO R2 - BIOS v.0601
> Ram - Corsair Vengence 12800
> Video - AMD Radeon HD6670
> PSU - Corsair GS600
> Cooling - Antec 920 Kuhler with Noctua NF-F12 fans to replace stock antec fans, also using Arctic Silver 5
> 
> Thanks in advance.


You will get better performance out of Coollabs Ultra than AS5 for your TIM. Many people get 5c or better just from that switch. As for the placement of the unit, are you saying the rad and fans are basically enclosed with in the case? If that is correct, then I would say that would cause some problems because that would definitely restrict airflow.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I've heard quite a lot of people saying AS5 is too old school to be a good TIM for nowadays PC's
I'm not sure if those claims are valid - but I would get something like the MX-4 for example or Noctua (CLU is nice too, but just to be on the safe side and not ruin your warranty, I wouldn't put any CLU/P on the IHS)


----------



## jperz09

well there's airflow for sure. the front of the case is a mesh metal, so i have the fans set up as a push pull out through the front of the case instead of the rear of the case. Wish i had a picture to show ya.


----------



## jperz09

on a side note. By removing and putting the cooler so much, It seems I've stripped out the holes of the back plate (where the locking nuts go) is there somewhere i can get a replacement back plate?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

The backplate seems to be hard to come by to be honest.
I would ask Antec about that one.

Alternatively ask on here, see maybe someone has one spare to give you.

As for airflow - yes that's actually quite good, but I would push air INTO the case.


----------



## splinterize

Thinking about getting a 920 for my i5. Are there any major issues with these units?


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *splinterize*
> 
> Thinking about getting a 920 for my i5. Are there any major issues with these units?


For closed looped cooling you have the H100i, H80i, and Antec 920 in the same price range. Which one is best is debatable, but they are all in the same class of cooler. If you want a step up you can do a Swiftech H220 and then add to it if you want to cool your 670 FTW also.


----------



## jperz09

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The backplate seems to be hard to come by to be honest.
> I would ask Antec about that one.
> 
> Alternatively ask on here, see maybe someone has one spare to give you.
> 
> As for airflow - yes that's actually quite good, but I would push air INTO the case.


Yeah hot air blowing into the case would be bad









anyway, do you still have your AMD backplate? lol I don't know if it's true for most people, but i keep all the pieces from all my equipment, just in case, so i've still got the intel backplate.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jperz09*
> 
> Yeah hot air blowing into the case would be bad
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> anyway, do you still have your AMD backplate? lol I don't know if it's true for most people, but i keep all the pieces from all my equipment, just in case, so i've still got the intel backplate.


I still do have mine- but I'm RMA'ing my Antec - which backplate do you need?
Send me a PM with the picture


----------



## jperz09

oh wait, i read your comment wrong, you said i should blow the are INTO the case...i got to thinking about it and i see what you're saying, hmm interesting, i maybe have to give that a shot, because as of right now i'm blowing the hot air from inside the case, out through the radiator, through the front.

If i turn the fans around, the cool air from outside the case will blow through the radiator, and out through the top and rear exhaust fans...but that poses the problem of hot air blowing over the mobo...guess ill just have to play with it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jperz09*
> 
> oh wait, i read your comment wrong, you said i should blow the are INTO the case...i got to thinking about it and i see what you're saying, hmm interesting, i maybe have to give that a shot, because as of right now i'm blowing the hot air from inside the case, out through the radiator, through the front.
> 
> If i turn the fans around, the cool air from outside the case will blow through the radiator, and out through the top and rear exhaust fans...but that poses the problem of hot air blowing over the mobo...guess ill just have to play with it.


I mean:
HOT air isn't really recommended to be blowing intot he case.
The fans should fact OUTWARDS - so the air being pushed through the antec rad should be going OUT of the case.

Some people however will argue that with good air flow- if you draw COLD air from outside, and push it through the rad, you get better temps, rather than pushing cold-is to hot air FROM the case, to out of the case.

Do some playing around with that.


----------



## splinterize

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> For closed looped cooling you have the H100i, H80i, and Antec 920 in the same price range. Which one is best is debatable, but they are all in the same class of cooler. If you want a step up you can do a Swiftech H220 and then add to it if you want to cool your 670 FTW also.


Thanks.

Looks like NCIX is going to have H220s by the beginning of march. I'll wait for it.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *splinterize*
> 
> Thanks.
> 
> Looks like NCIX is going to have H220s by the beginning of march. I'll wait for it.


Nice. I am thinking of swapping my h100i for one also.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Me third lol.
If my cousin does his build - I'll buy the H220 and give him the 920.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Thanks for the input. TIM application (amount) is one potential issues I was going to start ruling out over the next few days. I used a pea-sized amount, line method. Age of the MX5 (3 years) is another potential cause. And of course the afore mentioned possibility of the waterblock being seated improperly is another possible cause. After installing everything and hitting the power button, my rig wouldn't POST. It later turned out that my board would not accept the Kuhler being plugged into one of the 3 USB headers. The first thing I checked however was if I had damaged any CPU pins during installation, which means that I removed the waterblock. And it is possible that I may have mounted it slightly 'crooked' when tightening the screws back in.
> 
> Aside of user error, it just might be the unit itself. When unboxing the 920 I did find this scratch on the block. It doesn't look as bad in the picture as it does when looking at it directly.


I also have a scratch on the block too! Thats weird, wonder if it actually does affect temps.


----------



## oswald3k

Today I've reseted my 620 unit with a little Arctic Silver 5 dot in the middle of my 3570K.

My system:
Fractal Core 1000
Antec 620 with rad mounted in front with a Corsair SP120 HP @ 5V
3570K @ 4.2GHz 1.216vcore under load

TEMPS:
idle varies ~30*C
load ~ 74*C

By load I mean: 1hr Prime95 Blend torture test.

My goal was to balance power & noise. During nightime when I'm working it's audible. Daytime - "hey man, is it ON?"


----------



## M3TAl

Think my cold plate has a little nick in it and not a scratch. But it's been many months since I've looked at it and I'm not re-mounting just to find out haha.


----------



## plywood99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I also have a scratch on the block too! Thats weird, wonder if it actually does affect temps.


No it doesn't affect temperatures. It's inconsequential.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Why do all our plates have a knick on them then lol?
I said it looked like a missed place lathe attempt....guess I wasn't wrong - no matter how much plywood insisted I was wrong


----------



## Wookieelover

You ALWAYS want any rad drawing in cool are from outside of the case. You WILL see reduced cpu temps not might.
As long as your case is removing the hot air inside the case you have zero issues.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I'm inclined to say the nick on the copper shouldn't affect temps. The reason I am saying this, is because the 212+, Evo, SD1283 etc all have *signifgicant* gaps between where the copper of the block meets the metal of the heatpipes as you can see in the pic below:

212+


On the other hand logic dictates that the smoother the bottom of the HS, the better contact it makes with the CPU, the better the heat transfer from the CPU to the sink. That is after all why we apply TIM in the first place, to compensate for any nooks and crannies. Does anyone here remember lapping heatsinks and/ or the top of their CPU with superfine sandpaper for this exact reason?

In summary, I don't think it would affect temps but there may be other factors involved I am unaware of (like that such a nick would be more relevant on waterblocks than on aircoolers).


----------



## M3TAl

Scratches are normal. It's just part of the manufacturing process. They done buff/sand the cold plate like swiftech does with the H220. Don't think mine was a scratch but a nick... like a small gouge. But I don't care, my temps are perfectly normal.

Like I keep saying these 620/920 do not out perform Noctua NH-D14's. They come within a few degrees C. You want NH-D14 performance or better? Get a 240mm rad or 360mm.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Wookieelover*
> 
> You ALWAYS want any rad drawing in cool are from outside of the case. You WILL see reduced cpu temps not might.
> As long as your case is removing the hot air inside the case you have zero issues.


Indeed agreed. Might try that next time I mount my 920 in fact.
Have out / out n both my case fans (top and side) and double intake at the front - finished off with the antec in push/pull GETTING air from outside the case and sucking it in.
Last time I did that my case got super hot - but I didn't have proper case fans, and more so not proper air flow.

I was really happy with my case temps, after folding for 80hrs straight, the case was still "cool" air flow in my case is thus perfect for my old config.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> In summary, I don't think it would affect temps but there may be other factors involved I am unaware of (like that such a nick would be more relevant on waterblocks than on aircoolers).


Oh I totally agree. I don't think the scratch leads to bad temps, nor causes them, nor should be a reason. think of the TIM that "buffers" it anyway.
However, the antec not really performing as it should - is another question, and might lead to that scratch for some reason.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Scratches are normal. It's just part of the manufacturing process. They done buff/sand the cold plate like swiftech does with the H220. Don't think mine was a scratch but a nick... like a small gouge. But I don't care, my temps are perfectly normal.
> 
> Like I keep saying these 620/920 do not out perform Noctua NH-D14's. They come within a few degrees C. You want NH-D14 performance or better? Get a 240mm rad or 360mm.


No, but I certainly didn't expect my temps to be _worse_ than my SD1283. At least for idle, they seem way better when oc'd but then I also had more voltage (I think it was ~1.3v) when I oc'd on the SD1283.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> However, the antec not really performing as it should - is another question, and might lead to that scratch for some reason.


Ah, gotcha! Good point. Didn't realize you were simply referring to possible poor/ sloppy manucaturing overall which might lead to other 'mistakes' during the manufacturing process.


----------



## M3TAl

Not familiar with the SD1283, how close is it to the D14? Idle temps are mostly irrelevant anyways, load is all that should matter.

From what I remember way way back when the 620/920 first came out and looking at the initial reviews, they don't do so well idle compared to big air coolers, but still load is what counts.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not familiar with the SD1283, how close is it to the D14? Idle temps are mostly irrelevant anyways, load is all that should matter.From what I remember way way back when the 620/920 first came out and looking at the initial reviews, they don't do so well idle compared to big air coolers, but still load is what counts.


The SD1283 is abt on par with the 212+ according to Frostytech:

Xigmatek HDT-S1283 16.8 (150W) 10.7 (85W)

Coolermaster Hyper 212 Plus 16.9 (150W) 10.9 (85W)

Noctua NH-C14 14.1 (150W) 8.9 (85W)

These numbers are derived from testing on a LGA775 but should still give a good indication of their resprective performance.


----------



## M3TAl

How is your rad mounted? Intake will always be the best possible temps but you also should keep in mind hot air rising into that intake. So if it's mounted rear as intake and your psu puts out hot air on bottom rear, that hot air will rise and intake into the rad.

Try to isolate it from as much hot air as possible. This is why I mount mine in the front as intake, most isolation as possible. I tested almost every rad+fan position possible and front got the best for my case setup. http://www.overclock.net/t/1291564/antec-kuhler-620-8-rad-fan-setups-tested


----------



## 8bitG33k

The rad is mounted in the top back of my Antec P182. The PSU sits in it's own little compartment at the bottom of the case, isolated from the rest of the components and draws air from the front of the case. The hard drives sit in the windtunnel at the front of the case cooled by the air being pulled in through the front of the case by the PSU fan. There is no fan in front of the HDD's as the PSU fan creates sufficient airflow to cool them. Another intake fan is mounted at the front of the case, but above the PSU compartment. It blows air directly onto the GPU. There is one exhaust at the top of the case. All fans are 120mm. I've never had temp issues in this case before and this is my 3rd build inside the case. With my Q8300 in this same case my temps typically idled around 41 and load was around 65. The 7950 GPU which I initially had installed in previous build (ie, the one with the Q8300) had the exact same temps then as it does now.





There is a distinct possibility that the GPU blocks most of the cooler intake air from reaching the upper part of the case. I could try rigging another intake fan in the optical drive cage - but then I'd have to mod the entire front with some fine wire mesh to prevent dust from getting into the case. Antec did do an excellent job in having filters in all the areas where the fans pull in air and eliminating any other openings cracks or openings where dust might enter. In short, my case has been pretty much dust free for the past 3 years. But I could probably rig something to keep it that way, should I decide to put an extra fan.

The rad has a Bitfenix Spectre Pro (white LED) intake and a Coolermaster Blademaster R4 as pull, both are PWM fans and plugged into the 920. I really only used those fans because I know they'd be quieter than the stock Antec fans. However, putting the Antec fans back on as well as reseating the block is on my list for this weekend.

I like your idea of rigging the rad to sit in the optical drive bay. But then I'd have to remove the optical drive altogether.

The P182 does have rubber grommeted hole at the back to route hoses for H20 cooling, but I'd have to remove the hoses from the rad to mount it outside the case and I don't think the hosed are long enough to reach. So an outside mount is most likely not an option.


----------



## M3TAl

Does that case only have 3 5.25" bays? The rad and fans takes up 3 5.25" bays. My case has 4 bays so I still have dvd drive in the top bay.


----------



## Wookieelover

From that pic i would swap ya rad fans too pull in cold are from the back, will be exhausted straight away from the top fan. Instant improvement.


----------



## plywood99

8bitG33k Antec does recommend the fans to push air outside the case. In a well ventilated case that works well, however in your situation I would do some changes.

Either flip the top 120 to pull air into the case and keep the rad fans the same, or do as Wookielover mentioned and swap around the rad fans. Both ways will get rid of your negative air problem, which draws dust into your case and will probably net you a couple degrees better performance.

One thing to note though is that flipping the rad fans to push air into the case might cause your video card to gain a couple degrees, even with the top fan exhausting.
Only way to know for sure is to test it.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Why do all our plates have a knick on them then lol?
> I said it looked like a missed place lathe attempt....guess I wasn't wrong - no matter how much plywood insisted I was wrong


And I still think you're wrong.
Just like you're wrong about the 920 causing damage to your IHS














.

But hey, I'm just going to put you on ignore. I suggest you do the same for me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I don't mind you thinking I'm wrong with my own rig and my own experience with my stuff you can't physically touch. But don't go insulting people


----------



## 8bitG33k

Looks like I have my activities planned out for this weekend then. I'll post back with my findings. Thanks all for your input!


----------



## holiman1982

Hey all, I hope everything is going well for you. I just ordered my new CPU (FX-8350) and MoBo (Sabertooth 990fx) and I'm getting my case (Thermaltake V3 B.E.) organized for when they arrive. This is my first venture into liquid cooling and I just want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly. I'm installing my 620 on the bottom intake in push/pull (antec stock fans) with 1x intake fan and 3x exhaust (all 120mm 87.5cfm). I run into problems when it comes to connecting the pump and fans. What is the best way to connect them? Should I plug them into a splitter and then into the header on the pump? I can also plug the fans into the splitter and plug them into a motherboard header or should I plug them all into seperate headers? Sorry to be so longwinded, I just want to make sure to do this the best possible way, the first time.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiman1982*
> 
> Hey all, I hope everything is going well for you. I just ordered my new CPU (FX-8350) and MoBo (Sabertooth 990fx) and I'm getting my case (Thermaltake V3 B.E.) organized for when they arrive. This is my first venture into liquid cooling and I just want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly. I'm installing my 620 on the bottom intake in push/pull (antec stock fans) with 1x intake fan and 3x exhaust (all 120mm 87.5cfm). I run into problems when it comes to connecting the pump and fans. What is the best way to connect them? Should I plug them into a splitter and then into the header on the pump? I can also plug the fans into the splitter and plug them into a motherboard header or should I plug them all into seperate headers? Sorry to be so longwinded, I just want to make sure to do this the best possible way, the first time.


The fans plug into the splitter which plugs into the unit. I wasn't even aware the splitter was detachable from the pump. It is totally up to you if you want to plug the fans into the motherboard though, via a splitter to one header or each separately to it's own header. Just make sure to plug the pump into the CPU fan header of the motherboard.

As far as best config and placement of the radiator goes though, I'd say is a case by case scenario as it really depends on each individual setup. I think your plan to install as intake at the front bottom of your case is solid, but if you find it isn't working for you for some reason you can always try something else.

EDIT: And use v1.2 for the Chill Control software as people have reported issues with 1.3.


----------



## M3TAl

Do you want to be able to control the fan speed? If so pick a motherboard header and setup Chassis Q-Fan Control in the bios which should regulate fan speed using voltage.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Thinking I'm gonna get myself one of these. That should improve airflow.

I will have to completely forego physical media, but that shouldn't be an issue unless I reinstall Windows. For anything else I guess I could always get an external optical drive. Scratch that - I have 4 drivebays. Dunno what I was thinking.


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiman1982*
> 
> Hey all, I hope everything is going well for you. I just ordered my new CPU (FX-8350) and MoBo (Sabertooth 990fx) and I'm getting my case (Thermaltake V3 B.E.) organized for when they arrive. This is my first venture into liquid cooling and I just want to make sure I'm doing everything correctly. I'm installing my 620 on the bottom intake in push/pull (antec stock fans) with 1x intake fan and 3x exhaust (all 120mm 87.5cfm). I run into problems when it comes to connecting the pump and fans. What is the best way to connect them? Should I plug them into a splitter and then into the header on the pump? I can also plug the fans into the splitter and plug them into a motherboard header or should I plug them all into seperate headers? Sorry to be so longwinded, I just want to make sure to do this the best possible way, the first time.


sounds good. Extreme setting the stock antec fans are loud but they work, normal operation they are not that loud. I have had no thermal issues breaking the 5.0 GHZ barrier. I also use them as intake into the case, evacuating the hot air is very important.


----------



## M3TAl

That's a lot of money for what most people just mod themselves with foam. There's some things in cooling section showing what to do. Let me find the link.

Found it, was in my favorites. http://www.overclock.net/t/1037539/intake-fan-in-a-5-25-bay-warning-graphics


----------



## holiman1982

Thanks for the advice. The 620 doesn't have a splitter, just a plug for a 3-pin. I have an extra 3 pin Y-connector. I would prefer to have fan control, so I'll be plugging them into the motherboard. Should I use the Y or plug them into seperate headers? Also thanks for the advice about 1.3.

*Edit*
I'm also replacing the stock thermal paste with Cooler Master IceFusion


----------



## M3TAl

Me personally I would use the Y splitter (assuming the two fans don't use more than 12w combined) so there's still open headers on the mobo.

Also check the splitter cable and make sure there isnt it a yellow wire on both ends, the yellow wire sends RPM info (you don't want both fans sending their rpm to the mobo).


----------



## holiman1982

Thanks for the heads up! I'll be happy if I run 4.6 to 4.8, but I really want to break the 5.0 barrier!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's a lot of money for what most people just mod themselves with foam. There's some things in cooling section showing what to do. Let me find the link.
> 
> Found it, was in my favorites. http://www.overclock.net/t/1037539/intake-fan-in-a-5-25-bay-warning-graphics


Love it! Thanks for the suggestion I think I'm gonna do something like that. Mesh and another fan shouldn't run me more than 30- 35 USD, depending on the fan. Oh and another 5-ish for the foam.


----------



## M3TAl

If you have fans with holes in them by the screws, like the one that comes with the 620, or fans that are open by the screw hole (don't know how to explain it, look at the corsair sp fans or cougar vortex fans) then technically you don't need foam. You could just use zip ties, shoe laces, etc to let it sort of "float" in the drive bays.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Just installed the stock Antec fans and started up p95, max temp this time has come up to 88 so far (prev max was 89). So I think I can rule out the fans I previously had installed as a culprit. Since I had mentioned the possibility of the block not being seated properly I reseated it now. And can thus also rule out improper seating as a possible issue. Same Chill Control settings as previously, ie Fan Ramp Start Temp 30, Full Speed Fan Temp 35. Not to be stating the obvious but I did want to note that my previous fans were far quieter. As I keep saying, I'll be doing some more testing and post the results. Next test will be to apply more TIM and see if that changes anything.

On a side note I want to add that after updating my BIOS, my voltage has decided to increase itself to 1.272 from the previous 1.260.


----------



## Callumpy

Just got a pair of SP120s and slapped them in push/pull on my 620. Temps seem to have lowered quite considerably.



I crudely drew on what my fans do, should I change any of them?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Just got a pair of SP120s and slapped them in push/pull on my 620. Temps seem to have lowered quite considerably.
> I crudely drew on what my fans do, should I change any of them?


I've got almost the exact same air flow with my fans.
I would leave it as it is - if you have a side panel with a fan slot - might be good to have an intake by the side.

That's what I got and I got incredibly good air flow- never hot in there.

As for the SP's - did you go for the HP ones?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *holiman1982*
> 
> Thanks for the heads up! I'll be happy if I run 4.6 to 4.8, but I really want to break the 5.0 barrier!


Make sure to not hit that TJ MAX!
I don't know if you'll be able to hit 5ghz with this cooler, or any liquid closed back system on Ivy Bridge.
Unless you're extremely lucky with your chip and need low voltage.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've got almost the exact same air flow with my fans.
> I would leave it as it is - if you have a side panel with a fan slot - might be good to have an intake by the side.
> 
> That's what I got and I got incredibly good air flow- never hot in there.
> 
> As for the SP's - did you go for the HP ones?


Awesome, ill try putting the spare fan i've got on the side.

Also yeah, they're the High Performance model, i'm running them on my phantom's fan controller so they aren't that loud unless they're on full speed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Awesome, ill try putting the spare fan i've got on the side.
> 
> Also yeah, they're the High Performance model, i'm running them on my phantom's fan controller so they aren't that loud unless they're on full speed.


sounds great!


----------



## hanck

Hi all !

I bought the new kuhler 920 V4, and i have the last Chill Control VI (yes, the 6 relase)

I have installed the driver and software, and i can control my kuhler 920 witouth any problem

the only thing I do not understand is: because I can not lower the fan speed under the 25% ?? (1400 RPM)

these fans have to work at 700 RPM - 2400 RPM









Any advice? Thanks


----------



## Maximization

I wish i knoew where to get that software, that looks awesome.


----------



## hanck

This software is available only on cd in bundle with the new relase of khuler 920 V4


----------



## Maximization

i think your the first person with a V4


----------



## Falmod

As far as I know you need the disk that came with your Antec Kuhler H2O 920 (It doesnt come with the 620)


----------



## Maximization

i have a 920, i got v1.2, V4 just hit the market i think.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

V4 must have just hit the market indeed...
That said - VI doesn't work for me, but looks incredibly sexy in that picture.

If y'all want to give it a try - search this thread, and you'll find it posted by me.


----------



## hanck

And Chill Control V (v 1.2) not work for me. I need Chill Control VI

probably the chipset inside is different? however, you are able to lower the speed at 700rpm?


----------



## Maximization

there is a way to update firmware for it, but i have not seen any updates for this function. It looks like the new SW lets you save profiles....o i want.


----------



## hanck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> there is a way to update firmware for it


What?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> It looks like the new SW lets you save profiles....


Yes, this is true. And it can control color of LED (and more)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanck*
> 
> What?
> Yes, this is true. And it can control color of LED (and more)


Can you show us more screenshots







?


----------



## 8bitG33k

How do I know what version I have?


----------



## Maximization

right clock on the little temp screen near clock, should be about


----------



## hanck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Can you show us more screenshots
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?


Sure, i have make a review http://www.the-overclock-hole.it/recensioni/3513-antec-kuhler-h2o-920-v4.html?start=5
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> right clock on the little temp screen near clock, should be about


Sorry but I did not understand. You talk about Chill Control?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hanck*
> 
> Sure, i have make a review http://www.the-overclock-hole.it/recensioni/3513-antec-kuhler-h2o-920-v4.html?start=5
> Sorry but I did not understand. You talk about Chill Control?


Ok so what's interesting is:
1. CPU temps
2. Fan control
3. High temp notifications / customisation

Cheers for the link


----------



## M3TAl

So is there anything different hardware wise with this V4?


----------



## plywood99

Version 4 changed a few things, mainly with the pump / block itself.
The block now uses a center inlet, dual side outlet. Older versions used a side to side inlet outlet.
Center inlet should be good for a couple degrees improvement.
Also the pump has been improved for better pressure and flow.
I'm very tempted to get a V4 and mod it, just to compare with my old one.

Here is a link to the official press release.

http://www.asetek.com/press-room/news/366-asetekr-releases-fourth-generation-of-patented-all-in-one-liquid-coolers.html

Yuppers the itch to upgrade is really getting... uhm... itchy


----------



## hanck

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ok so what's interesting is:
> 1. CPU temps
> 2. Fan control
> 3. High temp notifications / customisation
> 
> Cheers for the link


Thanks









maybe 4. Complete control over the LED
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So is there anything different hardware wise with this V4?


The control and profile for RPM control about fans. But I do not know how to lower the speed below 1400 rpm

(the only way I've found is to connect the waterblock on the 3 pin of the motherboard)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Version 4 changed a few things, mainly with the pump / block itself.
> The block now uses a center inlet, dual side outlet. Older versions used a side to side inlet outlet.
> Center inlet should be good for a couple degrees improvement.
> Also the pump has been improved for better pressure and flow.
> I'm very tempted to get a V4 and mod it, just to compare with my old one.
> 
> Here is a link to the official press release.
> 
> http://www.asetek.com/press-room/news/366-asetekr-releases-fourth-generation-of-patented-all-in-one-liquid-coolers.html
> 
> Yuppers the itch to upgrade is really getting... uhm... itchy


Nice! Cheers for the info!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> there is a way to update firmware for it, but i have not seen any updates for this function. It looks like the new SW lets you save profiles....o i want.


No, I meant the unit itself not Chill Control, I have 1.2 for the software. The 'old' version of the Kuhler is incompatible with Chill Control VI? ie, how do I know which version of Chill Control is compatible with my unit?


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> No, I meant the unit itself not Chill Control, I have 1.2 for the software. The 'old' version of the Kuhler is incompatible with Chill Control VI? ie, how do I know which version of Chill Control is compatible with my unit?


1.2 is it for us


----------



## Gh0sT-NoVa

Wao even a club for this cooler ?! Amazing....can i join now ? Currently i don't have it but i CONFIRM to be getting this cooler by March







Maybe sooner

But i wanted to ask can i use 3 pin fans instead of PWM fans , will the program still work with it ?


----------



## Falmod

If they are 3pin PWM fans then yes but if not it wont work.

Sent from my GT-S5830 using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gh0sT-NoVa*
> 
> Wao even a club for this cooler ?! Amazing....can i join now ? Currently i don't have it but i CONFIRM to be getting this cooler by March
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Maybe sooner
> 
> But i wanted to ask can i use 3 pin fans instead of PWM fans , will the program still work with it ?


3 pin WILL work, but the program won't be able to control it.
I suggest you stay on stock fans as they perform very well - however if you want a quieter PC (you be the judge of the noise levels) then think of changing fans


----------



## Gh0sT-NoVa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 3 pin WILL work, but the program won't be able to control it.
> I suggest you stay on stock fans as they perform very well - however if you want a quieter PC (you be the judge of the noise levels) then think of changing fans


Hmm i don't OC my CPU , i think at it's " Silence " mode ( was it Silence mod ? ) i think i will do fine , i saw it at max mod







Mother of god...i thought our car radiator fan is noisy.....

I have 2 ideas , will either one work ?

1) What if i do this , i have one of my fan ( not Antect stock but my 3pin LED fan ) plug into my Mobo , have my Mobo control it instead , while the other stock Antec fan plug into the 4 pin PWM connector on the pump. The program still will work right ? But it only controls one fan , but i wonder will cooling efficiency still be any good if so









OR

2) I saw one of this an Arctic Cooling Arctic F PWM Fan 120mm , they are very cheap and their are PWM , they should work with the program then right ? But originally the fans can go up to 2200 RPM , but this are only 1350 RPM , can they work with the program ? And i think i can go full out with this fans , since 1350 RPM won't produce much noise , my 140mm Xigmatek fans are running at full 1100 rpm , 4 piece not to mention , are still quite quiet







I heard Arctic Cooling fans are pretty good too









http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/case-fans/73/arctic-f-pwm.html
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Version 4 changed a few things, mainly with the pump / block itself.
> The block now uses a center inlet, dual side outlet. Older versions used a side to side inlet outlet.
> Center inlet should be good for a couple degrees improvement.
> Also the pump has been improved for better pressure and flow.
> I'm very tempted to get a V4 and mod it, just to compare with my old one.
> 
> Here is a link to the official press release.
> 
> http://www.asetek.com/press-room/news/366-asetekr-releases-fourth-generation-of-patented-all-in-one-liquid-coolers.html
> 
> Yuppers the itch to upgrade is really getting... uhm... itchy


Lazy to scroll up and read everything through again lol , but are you guys talking about Antec 920 or Asetek ones ? ( I know Asetek make for Antec ) if it's Antec how you tell it's V4 ? But my country only recently brought in this Antec coolers , they never exist back in 2011


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gh0sT-NoVa*
> 
> Hmm i don't OC my CPU , i think at it's " Silence " mode ( was it Silence mod ? ) i think i will do fine , i saw it at max mod
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Mother of god...i thought our car radiator fan is noisy.....
> 
> I have 2 ideas , will either one work ?
> 1


I suggest sticking to stock antec fans. They are great fans on idle/low load.
Get the Antec 920 in, then worry about fans


----------



## Gh0sT-NoVa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I suggest sticking to stock antec fans. They are great fans on idle/low load.
> Get the Antec 920 in, then worry about fans


Yeah i guess your right , i been thinking i though , might just save my money and use the stock ones , since it's black too can't complain , it matches my full black build too









And i know where to install my Xigmatek fan instead , on my HDD cage since i originally had thought of installing fans there








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *plywood99*
> 
> Version 4 changed a few things, mainly with the pump / block itself.
> The block now uses a center inlet, dual side outlet. Older versions used a side to side inlet outlet.
> Center inlet should be good for a couple degrees improvement.
> Also the pump has been improved for better pressure and flow.
> I'm very tempted to get a V4 and mod it, just to compare with my old one.
> 
> Here is a link to the official press release.
> 
> http://www.asetek.com/press-room/news/366-asetekr-releases-fourth-generation-of-patented-all-in-one-liquid-coolers.html


About this , did he meant for Antec or Asetek only?


----------



## thedoc77

i just picked a antec25 kuhler 620 h2o used but it did not come with any of the brakets for a intel board i have the screws but no brakets. i was wounder if any one had some that they could part with. i cant find any on the net to buy. thx. i run a 775 mother board. thx all its all set now i have one coming. thx.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Update: As I had said I would, I put my 212+ back in to see what kind of temps I'd be getting with it. It is mounted with one Coolermaster Blademaster (R4) fan in push config. Idle temps were ~3-4c lower than with the 920 but temps hit 93 when I ran p95. To refresh your memory, my max temp with the 920 was 89c. Room temp was a bit warmer today, ~70F compared to the previous 65. No other variables have changed (like case airflow).

I'll report back once I get my new 920.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoc77*
> 
> i just picked a antec25 kuhler 620 h2o used but it did not come with any of the brakets for a intel board i have the screws but no brakets. i was wounder if any one had some that they could part with. i cant find any on the net to buy. thx. i run a 775 mother board.


The little metal thingies that go into the backplate? Antec is usually pretty good with sending replacements, I'd send an email/ open a support ticket. The two times I have dealt with Antec Customer Service I have been very impressed.


----------



## grunion

Upgrading my 620 to a 920, are the mounting systems interchangeable or will I have to disassemble and swap?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Upgrading my 620 to a 920, are the mounting systems interchangeable or will I have to disassemble and swap?


The mounts are identical.
But I don't get what you're changing here? Or should I say I don't understand the question.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Update: As I had said I would, I put my 212+ back in to see what kind of temps I'd be getting with it. It is mounted with one Coolermaster Blademaster (R4) fan in push config. Idle temps were ~3-4c lower than with the 920 but temps hit 93 when I ran p95. To refresh your memory, my max temp with the 920 was 89c. Room temp was a bit warmer today, ~70F compared to the previous 65. No other variables have changed (like case airflow).


Cheers for the update man!


----------



## Falmod

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *thedoc77*
> 
> i just picked a antec25 kuhler 620 h2o used but it did not come with any of the brakets for a intel board i have the screws but no brakets. i was wounder if any one had some that they could part with. i cant find any on the net to buy. thx. i run a 775 mother board.


I have the intel bracket handy, Where abouts are you bro ?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> I have the intel bracket handy, Where abouts are you bro ?


Is that what he means, the backplate? Or the inserts? Since he was using plural I asssumed he meant the screw inserts or possibly the Tension Clips. Since he also said Intel though, he may have meant the backplate.

backplate...



backplate metal inserts:


and then the ---> *Tension clips* <---


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Seeing as it looks like my rma for motherboard will be rejected and thus have no hope about the Antec. How can I stick back on the backplate?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Seeing as it looks like my rma for motherboard will be rejected and thus have no hope about the Antec. How can I stick back on the backplate?


I never used the sticky thingies that came with the Kuhler. I just kinda stuck it on there and then used the screws to hold it in place. Once tightened, it's rock solid.

Why is your RMA being rejected?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

My board is being rejected for a stupid, unlawful reason.
No news on the Antec yet.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> My board is being rejected for a stupid, unlawful reason.
> No news on the Antec yet.


Really sorry to hear about that TD. The only thing you can do is try to fight them, and make them understand that the time and trouble you will cause will end up being more than them just replacing it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

What's quite funny is that I corrected them on how they were wrong.
y that, technical things aside - what I mean is when they said: 'why would we want to reject it? We don't gain anything'

Me: of course you do. You don't want to take on the responsibilities for the product. Thus if Asus are saying the serial number is broken, then you should reject it. Little is said about if I have a liquid cooler that sticks to the board.
More so, I completely agree that if there are any traces on the motherboard, bent pins, then I wouldn't accept it either.
But traces by the cpu mounting holes? Is taking the...mick.
So instead of logically understanding the situation I'm in, scan, you have completely ignored customer relationship and/or service by rejecting it as you're in fear of being rejected rma by Asus.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What's quite funny is that I corrected them on how they were wrong.
> y that, technical things aside - what I mean is when they said: 'why would we want to reject it? We don't gain anything'


Sounds about what I'd expect from the average, brainwashed Customer Service Rep.

So what traces are they talking about? Adhesive residue from the Antec sticky thingies?

Oh, and one of the reasons I ultimately chose the Kuhler over the Corsair is because of the good experience I've had with Antec in the past. Not saying Corsair doesn't, cuz I don't know, but Antec has gone out of their way for me in the past. And that experience left a good impression.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

When I get home I'll link pictures again and try to explain.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

RMA result = rejected:
Tested for 2 hours using an i7 2600k at stock speed. Ran prime95 for 2 hours, maximum cpu temp was 59 degrees under 100% load.
Liquid temp maximum was 39 degrees (monitored using the supplied Antec software).

2.6k is sandybridge - and doesn't run as hot as an Ivy Bridge.
60c 2hrs prime 100% load sound correct for sandy?

As to me:
A stock intel cooler performs as good as my antec 920 with IB.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Interesting, my liquid temp was around 35-36 when my CPU hit that 89.

What voltage were you using? And where you overclocked? Not sure if I mentioned that in all my tests I was overclocked, ie 4.5GHz @ 1.272v. When I get my replacement and take my final measurements I'll make sure I summarize everything.

This is the Asus RMA or the Antec RMA now? I just mailed my 920 back. It's still too early for me to draw a final conclusion yet, until I get my 920 replacement and see how it performs. Although my expectations are pretty set at this point, numbers don't lie.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Here's a thread on it:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1362043/my-experience-with-scan-uk-asus-motherboard-antec-920-rma-scan-uk-a-joke-of-a-company

Let me know how yours goes - Mine will be quite fun dealing with tradings standards in the UK and scan


----------



## Callumpy

That's such a shame, I don't mind scan. I ordered a MSI Z77A-GD55 from them, turned out they didn't have any in stock so they upgraded me to the Thunderbolt version for an extra £16, which is really cheap!

As for the annoying sticky pads, i've currently got a motherboard waiting for RMA, and they are still on the back, they are awful to get off so I didn't even bother putting them on my new board.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ah fair, so this time round, I'll put no pads. I'm curious how that will affect the cpu mounting holes....Lol!


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ah fair, so this time round, I'll put no pads. I'm curious how that will affect the cpu mounting holes....Lol!


Doesn't appear to have had any affect apart from making it a pain in the arse to install. Had to get someone to hold the back-plate whist I screwed the mounting ring on. I am stupid though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha no not at all. My first time was with someone else too...oh dirty mind...Lol


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Haha no not at all. My first time was with someone else too...oh dirty mind...Lol


I reworded my post multiple times to avoid that.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I reworded my post multiple times to avoid that.


I never avoid dirty minded conflicts - they are healthy to have:


----------



## 8bitG33k




----------



## tdrloux

I installed the akasa apache fans.
Antec fans at 900 rpm = akasa apache at 1340 rpm (maximum rpm from this fans) monitoring the noise.

I did a 1 hour stress test using prime95 in my pentium 620.
Using the akasa apache the liquid temperature estabilish at 39.5ºC (1340rpm)
Using the antec fans the liquid temperature estabilish at 40.0ºC (1300rpm, noisy)

Conclusion: Using a pentium g620, that do not require a high cooling potential, the akasa apache was a great upgrade. The processor never gets more than 10ºC above the liquid temperature (liquid at 39.5ºC and the processor at 49ºC). All this results with a barely audible sound from akasa apache.

Who need a better cooling potential like using a overclocked processor, is better buy fans with more rpm range than akasa apache.
The Corsair SP120 still the better performance x noise for radiators (my opinion), but they cost twice from the akasa apache.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^cheers for the input!


----------



## Gh0sT-NoVa

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> What's quite funny is that I corrected them on how they were wrong.
> y that, technical things aside - what I mean is when they said: 'why would we want to reject it? We don't gain anything'
> 
> Me: of course you do. You don't want to take on the responsibilities for the product. Thus if Asus are saying the serial number is broken, then you should reject it. Little is said about if I have a liquid cooler that sticks to the board.
> More so, I completely agree that if there are any traces on the motherboard, bent pins, then I wouldn't accept it either.
> But traces by the cpu mounting holes? Is taking the...mick.
> So instead of logically understanding the situation I'm in, scan, you have completely ignored customer relationship and/or service by rejecting it as you're in fear of being rejected rma by Asus.


Hey TD , about this , i only read abit about it , i also read the link you posted with your experience with Scan that rejected your Mobo RMA , but i want to make sure , what did actually really happened ?

1) Your Antec 920 isn't cooling as it suppose to be
2) Your Mobo die on you too , then you send back to Scan for RMA , but they rejected your RMA , saying

" Rejected due to physical damage - Severe track damage around one of the cpu cooler mounting holes. The serial number label has been tampered with, looks like its been removed and taped back on. Photos on the OLQ "

Hmm im not saying you did or so , but was there something happened when you removing / installing the cooler on your CPU ? Because i heard someone in Newegg said the Antec 920 is badly made , and somehow he had a hard time removing the cooler backplate or something and he said it's as if it will break the Mobo while trying to do so ! Also i think he said the screws can only be use once or something , if you tend to remove it and install to another new PC , that be a problem , i may misunderstood what he meant because my English isn't so good
Is there really such a big problem with this cooler ??

Read the 4th comment

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-209-054&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29&Page=1#scrollFullInfo

Also must i use the sticky tape ? Could i just have someone hold the backplate for me while i screw it in together ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gh0sT-NoVa*
> 
> Hey TD , about this , i only read abit about it , i also read the link you posted with your experience with Scan that rejected your Mobo RMA , but i want to make sure , what did actually really happened ?
> 
> 1) Your Antec 920 isn't cooling as it suppose to be
> 2) Your Mobo die on you too , then you send back to Scan for RMA , but they rejected your RMA , saying
> 
> " Rejected due to physical damage - Severe track damage around one of the cpu cooler mounting holes. The serial number label has been tampered with, looks like its been removed and taped back on. Photos on the OLQ "
> 
> Hmm im not saying you did or so , but was there something happened when you removing / installing the cooler on your CPU ? Because i heard someone in Newegg said the Antec 920 is badly made , and somehow he had a hard time removing the cooler backplate or something and he said it's as if it will break the Mobo while trying to do so ! Also i think he said the screws can only be use once or something , if you tend to remove it and install to another new PC , that be a problem , i may misunderstood what he meant because my English isn't so good
> Is there really such a big problem with this cooler ??
> 
> Read the 4th comment
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-209-054&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Keywords=%28keywords%29&Page=1#scrollFullInfo
> 
> Also must i use the sticky tape ? Could i just have someone hold the backplate for me while i screw it in together ?


Hi there mate,

Well there are a few things here - first of all design flaws:
1. Antec with their plastic backplate
2. Asus having traces by the CPU mounting holes

I wouldn't put sticky tape.
I would either leave it without any sort of tape - or put the adhesive strip on, knowing that it might be very hard to get off afterwards.
In reality, I don't see why you should need to remove it in the first place.


----------



## Gh0sT-NoVa

Yeah i saw online the backplate...i never expected they really use such a method ! This really make me reconsider getting it....hmmm
Maybe i might go to Hydro 80 instead....
About the the part removing it , it's because as for now im on my budget Mobo that i built 4 months ago...another 2 months or so i think i be changing to a better and bigger Mobo , i only have a P8Z77-M which is a Micro-ATX , matter of fact im already using a CoolerMaster TX3 EVO , its running pretty well , since im only using a i5 @ 3.3 Ghz no OC , keeping it nice and cool....but since everyone this days uses water cooler and it looks so cool well you know








Another main reason why i switching to water cool , is because i have Corsair Vengeance RAM , which have big heatsinks....not many big air coolers can fit specially if you want push pull configuration , kinda regretted getting this big RAM !


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gh0sT-NoVa*
> 
> Yeah i saw online the backplate...i never expected they really use such a method ! This really make me reconsider getting it....hmmm
> Maybe i might go to Hydro 80 instead....
> About the the part removing it , it's because as for now im on my budget Mobo that i built 4 months ago...another 2 months or so i think i be changing to a better and bigger Mobo , i only have a P8Z77-M which is a Micro-ATX , matter of fact im already using a CoolerMaster TX3 EVO , its running pretty well , since im only using a i5 @ 3.3 Ghz no OC , keeping it nice and cool....but since everyone this days uses water cooler and it looks so cool well you know
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Another main reason why i switching to water cool , is because i have Corsair Vengeance RAM , which have big heatsinks....not many big air coolers can fit specially if you want push pull configuration , kinda regretted getting this big RAM !


In that case don't put the sticker on at first - and then apply it on your final build







!


----------



## DjBodya

Sup guys new owner of a 920 here








Dropped my temps by 6-7 degrees from A Zalman9900MAX. Was expecting a bit more but then again I am running an QX6700. I gotta say this plastic backplate sucks..... It usually takes me a couple of tries to get the best mount on, and it feels to me that I can shave of a couple more degrees but I got one of the bolts a bit loose in the back plate. And it seemed to me as that one screw had much less twists than all the others. Anyone know of a way to make secure the bolt? I would like to try to remount it for the second time.


----------



## hustler68

Hi guys i currently have the Kuhler 620 and 2 x Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm fans..

Ive read several different posts about the setup of these fans on the cooler and was wondering which ones you guys found best..

01. Ive read that the fan from the pump goes to the CPU Header on the motherboard and then the 2 fans plugged into a fan splitter and then plugged into the other header from the cooler..

02. Plug the pump in the the PWR System fan header and then do the same with the fans as above...

03. Plug the pump directly into a supply directly (As this will run the pump 100%) from the power supply and then the same with the fans above...

Which one of these are correct?? Any help is much appreciated as im not 100% sure which would be better?

Thanks guys and look forward to a quick response so I can get this up and running without worrying myself to death... lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Sup guys new owner of a 920 here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Dropped my temps by 6-7 degrees from A Zalman9900MAX. Was expecting a bit more but then again I am running an QX6700. I gotta say this plastic backplate sucks..... It usually takes me a couple of tries to get the best mount on, and it feels to me that I can shave of a couple more degrees but I got one of the bolts a bit loose in the back plate. And it seemed to me as that one screw had much less twists than all the others. Anyone know of a way to make secure the bolt? I would like to try to remount it for the second time.


if you push with your screwdrive on the screw bit, the bolt should pop out with pressure.
Once that happens - hold the bolt with one hand and screw (whilst still applying pressure) and it should tighten it up a bit more








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hustler68*
> 
> Hi guys i currently have the Kuhler 620 and 2 x Gentle Typhoon 1850rpm fans..
> 
> Ive read several different posts about the setup of these fans on the cooler and was wondering which ones you guys found best..
> 
> 01. Ive read that the fan from the pump goes to the CPU Header on the motherboard and then the 2 fans plugged into a fan splitter and then plugged into the other header from the cooler..
> 
> 02. Plug the pump in the the PWR System fan header and then do the same with the fans as above...
> 
> 03. Plug the pump directly into a supply directly (As this will run the pump 100%) from the power supply and then the same with the fans above...
> 
> Which one of these are correct?? Any help is much appreciated as im not 100% sure which would be better?
> 
> Thanks guys and look forward to a quick response so I can get this up and running without worrying myself to death... lol


1. would be the one.
Plug the antec into the CPU FAN HEADER - then the two fan splitters can be connected up to your Typhoon's (as long as the typhoons are 4pin PWM fans - or else you won't be able to control their speeds through the antec software)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

To those wanting to improve temps - and weren't too sure about the information provided by users - here's the official word from Stefan @ Antec:

"Let's talk about the temps first. Seeing a max temperature of 70°C at 100% load
is not unusual on an i7 3770K with these compact liquid coolers. Did you use the
stock fans while testing this, or the Corsair ones from your installation guide?
A method to reach better temps is to switch around the fans directions so cool
air is sucked into the radiator from the back into the case. Your top mounted
fans will handle the exhaust function just fine, and the positive side effect is
that the cooling performance will become better. Please give it a shot when you
have the chance."


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> To those wanting to improve temps - and weren't too sure about the information provided by users - here's the official word from Stefan @ Antec:
> 
> "Let's talk about the temps first. Seeing a max temperature of 70°C at 100% load
> is not unusual on an i7 3770K with these compact liquid coolers. Did you use the
> stock fans while testing this, or the Corsair ones from your installation guide?
> A method to reach better temps is to switch around the fans directions so cool
> air is sucked into the radiator from the back into the case. Your top mounted
> fans will handle the exhaust function just fine, and the positive side effect is
> that the cooling performance will become better. Please give it a shot when you
> have the chance."


Thanks for sharing!

Not sure about the
Quote:


> Seeing a max temperature of 70°C at 100% load
> is not unusual on an i7 3770K with these compact liquid coolers.


bit since it's more like in the high 80's/ low 90's for some of us.

Switching the fan direction is one of the things on my list though.

On an unrelated side note TD, did you have your SP120's speed controlled by your motherboard or did they always run on full speed?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Thanks for sharing!
> 
> Not sure about the
> bit since it's more like in the high 80's/ low 90's for some of us.
> 
> Switching the fan direction is one of the things on my list though.
> 
> On an unrelated side note TD, did you have your SP120's speed controlled by your motherboard or did they always run on full speed?


Well for me the max temp using STOCK i7 + antec fans was around 65-75c - so that makes sense to me - just expected the antec 920 to perform better to be honest.
I have gone ahead and asked more questions:
-Backplate
-Screws
-Instructions
-Scratch

I have my SP120's connected to the motherboard yes, and they run from 800RPM to 1300RPM (for some reason don't go to 1500RPM) -they vary on load


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> To those wanting to improve temps - and weren't too sure about the information provided by users - here's the official word from Stefan @ Antec:
> 
> "Let's talk about the temps first. Seeing a max temperature of 70°C at 100% load
> is not unusual on an i7 3770K with these compact liquid coolers. Did you use the
> stock fans while testing this, or the Corsair ones from your installation guide?
> A method to reach better temps is to switch around the fans directions so cool
> air is sucked into the radiator from the back into the case. Your top mounted
> fans will handle the exhaust function just fine, and the positive side effect is
> that the cooling performance will become better. Please give it a shot when you
> have the chance."


I was actually thinking about doing this, it makes sense. Ill try this tomorrow, good share


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I was actually thinking about doing this, it makes sense. Ill try this tomorrow, good share


No probs


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Well for me the max temp using STOCK i7 + antec fans was around 65-75c - so that makes sense to me - just expected the antec 920 to perform better to be honest.
> I have gone ahead and asked more questions:
> -Backplate
> -Screws
> -Instructions
> -Scratch
> 
> I have my SP120's connected to the motherboard yes, and they run from 800RPM to 1300RPM (for some reason don't go to 1500RPM) -they vary on load


As far as expecting the 920 performing better goes, I agree. Basically I'm looking at a 4c temp improvement over my 212+ for an additional $70. As I keep saying, I still haven't reached a final verdict until I've done more testing, but the above is what I'm looking at right now with all other variables being the same.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> To those wanting to improve temps - and weren't too sure about the information provided by users - here's the official word from Stefan @ Antec:
> 
> "Let's talk about the temps first. Seeing a max temperature of 70°C at 100% load
> is not unusual on an i7 3770K with these compact liquid coolers. Did you use the
> stock fans while testing this, or the Corsair ones from your installation guide?
> A method to reach better temps is to switch around the fans directions so cool
> air is sucked into the radiator from the back into the case. Your top mounted
> fans will handle the exhaust function just fine, and the positive side effect is
> that the cooling performance will become better. Please give it a shot when you
> have the chance."


Yea that was going to be the next thing I try, t I will end up with 5 fans in and 3 out well 4 if you count the PW, hmm i wonder if i can actually achieve positive pressure then. That will help me out once I acquire my 660TI.








First I have to modify my case to fit in the rad in a proper place.


----------



## M3TAl

I keep saying this and it's still true. You need a 240mm radiator if you want better performance. These little 120mm rads, especially since they're aluminum, don't have enough surface area.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I keep saying this and it's still true. You need a 240mm radiator if you want better performance. These little 120mm rads, especially since they're aluminum, don't have enough surface area.


That's true, but still In all the tests I have seen performed. The difference is 2-3 degrees between 920 and what I consider the best 240mm rad the H100. 2-3 degrees IMO is fine as I dont have to do any serious modification to my case in order to fit a 240mm rad. Plus its 20-30 bucks cheaper.


----------



## nukedathlonman

Quote:


> Ive read several different posts about the setup of these fans on the cooler and was wondering which ones you guys found best..


I've got a V2, and I have the pump hooked up to a 12V molex plug with an adapter, and the fan plugged directly into the CPU fan header. I just let the BIOS handle the fan speed (I'm using a Noctua NF-P12 in a pull configuration). When the CPU frequency is maxed out (my Phenom 1055T is presently overclocked to 4.0Ghz), I see a slightly lower rise to peek temp.

Playing around is how I ended up with the strange configuration of my front lower case fan: it's a Noctua NF-S12 Flex blowing out instead of in. It keeps the bottom of my Cooler Master Elite 330 case 1 measly degree cooler and the hard drives 3 degree's cooler with zero temperature difference in the upper case temp. Dunno why, nor do I care - as long as the system is running cool (and near silent). But of course, I'm also running the rad in the 5.25" bays with a shroud (the Noctua is pulling air through the rad into the case), and another Noctua NF-P12 fan hooked is up with Y-adapter to the CPU header blowing out the rear of the case. This was to keep my system temps even while significantly lowering the VRM temps. I just figure it's because those 5.25" bays are taking in air (for the rad) instead of being covered with the original steel plates.

Generally #1 will produce the best results and produce those results consistently. However once in a while a different configuration (no matter how odd it is) may work for the overall system setup. This is why I say it's really best to play around and go with what works best.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I keep saying this and it's still true. You need a 240mm radiator if you want better performance. These little 120mm rads, especially since they're aluminum, don't have enough surface area.


And I have kept that in mind. That was def an excellent pointer you gave. I didn't want to come off as if I was complaining. Just a bit surprised with the results. I expected similar if slightly better results than air (which is what I got, at least under load) at less noise (of which I got the opposite, ie more noise).


----------



## M3TAl

I just don't want a ginormous hunk of metal hanging off my motherboard.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Excellent point.


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Today i bought antec khuler 620 v4 and i wonder where do i get the software to change the fan speed and the pump?


----------



## psycow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> Today i bought antec khuler 620 v4 and i wonder where do i get the software to change the fan speed and the pump?


The 620 dosnt support that function only the 920 does.

Now I have a question, do anyone know how you can reskin the control software for the 920, water 2.0 ex, x60 aka chill control?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> Today i bought antec khuler 620 v4 and i wonder where do i get the software to change the fan speed and the pump?


There is no software for the 620. You can however plug the fans into your motherboard header and control the fan speed via BIOS, if your motherboard supports it.


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> There is no software for the 620. You can however plug the fans into your motherboard header and control the fan speed via BIOS, if your motherboard supports it.


Okej, I have ASUS MAXIMUS V FORMULA







So it should be fine


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

How can i change the pump rpm?


----------



## 8bitG33k

The pump should be running at full speed at any given time. The only thing you'd want to change is the fan speed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Useful info from Antec: Stefan's answers will be in BOLD:

*Closed loop, maintenance free water cooling kits like the Antec/Corsair/Thermaltake/Zalman
etc. ones have their limitations. The temps you can achieve with these depend
highly on how you configure the fans on the radiator as well as the case
temperature that additionally will heat up the radiator and cause higher temps
in the long run.*

Let me try to answer your questions:

_1. Why is the backplate provided a plastic one? As it seems hardly stable enough
to hold the bolts in place (in fact mine have started rounding the backplate,
after a few mounts) - which also leads me unto another question regarding the
backplate: Do I need to use the adhesive strips to fasten it in-place? As now I
have no adhesive strips (as I had to remove it)._

*Metal would certainly be nicer for durability, but most people do not unmount
their cooler several times within a build. Overtightening the screws can lead to
what you experienced. Judging by the numbers of coolers sold and people
complaining about this problem only a very small number of customers seem to
experience these issues. If you need a new backplate and adhesive strips, we can
send you some. Just forward me your invoice to [email protected] together with
your shipping address.*

_2. I couldn't make use of the metal washers provided, simply because when I
added them, they wouldn't fit the rad/motherboard properly. Where are they
supposed to be fitted?_

*The metal washers are to be used with the radiator only. Some enclosures have
special mounting holes for fans, and the screws would simply slide through.*

_3. Why are the instructions, provided in the Antec 920 out-dated by a year? As
you can see I created an instruction guide, simply because the one provided was
out-dated and was no longer applicable to the installation (mainly the plastic
ring and the twisting motion)_

*Some boxes had older manuals included while including newer parts already. This
was a mistake, and customers asking about it received the newer manual along
with an extra sheet that includes info on the plastic ring.*

_4. Why did I find a scratch on my Antec 920 copper plate, after removing the
stock paste?_

*Honestly, no clue. All coolers I have handled so far had a blemish free base.*

_5. Could you also let me know what paste is actually used for the Antec cooling
systems? As you will be able to see from that thread, the Antec paste seemed to
have had completely evaporated.
http://www.overclock.net/t/1350571/antec-k-hler-h2o-920-stock-paste-removal-and-replacement-an-interesting-discovery_

*I have no specific details on the paste at the moment, but asked the engineers
for details. The evaporation is weird though. I haven't experienced this first
hand, and I have mounted quite a few already. I will ask and get back to you
about this asap.*

Best regards,

Antec Customer Support


----------



## Nethermir

Quote:


> *Some boxes had older manuals included while including newer parts already. This
> was a mistake, and customers asking about it received the newer manual along
> with an extra sheet that includes info on the plastic ring.*
> 
> 4. Why did I find a scratch on my Antec 920 copper plate, after removing the
> stock paste?


Interesting, I wonder how many people get this minor issue. I've bought a lot of Asetek and Antec Kuhlers and there are scratches on some of them.

I'll do a shameless plug here. If anyone is on the lookout for a cheap Antec Kuhler 920, I'm selling one http://www.overclock.net/t/1357695/antec-kuhler-920-no-mounting-bracket


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> The pump should be running at full speed at any given time. The only thing you'd want to change is the fan speed.


Okey, the pump is very loud. I have put a akasa 1000rpm fan on it and it stay cooled








But the pump is the noisy part.

How loud are your 620 v4 pump?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> Okey, the pump is very loud. I have put a akasa 1000rpm fan on it and it stay cooled
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But the pump is the noisy part.
> 
> How loud are your 620 v4 pump?


It may well be the sound of airbubbles in the pump. There is a video in the OP, check if the sound is the same. Other than that the pump should be virtually silent.


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> It may well be the sound of airbubbles in the pump. There is a video in the OP, check if the sound is the same. Other than that the pump should be virtually silent.


What is OP? ^^


----------



## 8bitG33k

OP=Original Post (of the thread)


----------



## nukedathlonman

Quote:


> I just don't want a ginormous hunk of metal hanging off my motherboard.


Yes, I agree - one very very big advantage that all water cooling loops have over normal heat sink and fan combo's: one can take the heat of the CPU and completely isolate it from adding to the internal case temps of the computer. That won't necessarily change the CPU temps, but that could cause a huge overall case temperature drop, unlike a heat sink that is taking the CPU temp and dumping it inside the case to where (hopefully) the air flow will carry it away before the heat bakes any other computer system components.

I do know that if I had access to a dremel that my rad wouldn't be sitting in the spare 5.25" bay's - it would be mounted externally to the case where the rear 120mm fan is. I'll live with my current compromise however (one simple case mod is not enough to justify the expense for me).


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Useful info from Antec: Stefan's answers will be in BOLD:
> 
> Let me try to answer your questions:
> 
> _1. Why is the backplate provided a plastic one? As it seems hardly stable enough
> to hold the bolts in place (in fact mine have started rounding the backplate,
> after a few mounts) - which also leads me unto another question regarding the
> backplate: Do I need to use the adhesive strips to fasten it in-place? As now I
> have no adhesive strips (as I had to remove it)._
> 
> *Metal would certainly be nicer for durability, but most people do not unmount
> their cooler several times within a build. Overtightening the screws can lead to
> what you experienced. Judging by the numbers of coolers sold and people
> complaining about this problem only a very small number of customers seem to
> experience these issues. If you need a new backplate and adhesive strips, we can
> send you some. Just forward me your invoice to [email protected] together with
> your shipping address.*
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> Antec Customer Support


Plastic backplate thats because they are cheap ass,,,,, You cant even tell how much you have screwed in with the plastic back plate. One of my screw holes went loose in the middle of tightening....
I still have to get my big boy replaced its been a month now. I guess Ill open up yet another ticket. 3 years warranty for parts HA!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Plastic backplate thats because they are cheap ass,,,,, You cant even tell how much you have screwed in with the plastic back plate. One of my screw holes went loose in the middle of tightening....
> I still have to get my big boy replaced its been a month now. I guess Ill open up yet another ticket. 3 years warranty for parts HA!!


Lol - glad I could have been of assistance


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

http://youtu.be/nuzfz0upNUA

Look at the video I uploaded. I have test to shake the radiator.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> http://youtu.be/nuzfz0upNUA
> 
> Look at the video I uploaded. I have test to shake the radiator.


yeah it shouldn't be making that noise - if you try and shake it and that's to no avail - RMA/return it


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Okey, thank you for the help







Could someone record a working pump so i can hear how a good pump sounds like.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> Okey, thank you for the help
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Could someone record a working pump so i can hear how a good pump sounds like.


Search any video on youtube - and/or check the OP again


----------



## M3TAl

If you really want to hear how the pump should actually sound I will take my side panel off and grab my large diaphram condenser mic and put it right next to the pump. I'll also shut all my case fans off, except for rad fans those will be on ~800rpm, to keep wind noise down and isolate the pump.


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you really want to hear how the pump should actually sound I will take my side panel off and grab my large diaphram condenser mic and put it right next to the pump. I'll also shut all my case fans off, except for rad fans those will be on ~800rpm, to keep wind noise down and isolate the pump.


That would be awesome if you could do that!









Btw, I wonder if two F12 PWM fans would be good to have Pnp at my 620? They are really cheap, 1 fan here in my town cost about 5 euro









http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/case-fans/73/arctic-f-pwm.html


----------



## sylock232

Any updates to Chill Control software? The software images distorts on my computer (possibly because I'm on a Korean Windows 7?)


----------



## DjBodya

So I think after endless hours of looking at different PWM fans I think I have decided to get a pair of Noisebreaker M12-P fans for my 920. Any thoughts? Gotta switch out these stock 920 fans, past 1800 RPM up to max they only offer me a 1 Degree of temp drop








The M12-P are just a little less louder than my stock Antec 1200 case fans, which I run at full 2000RPM most of the time. I think that maybe too loud for many ppl, but I like to hear my PC roar a little


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> So I think after endless hours of looking at different PWM fans I think I have decided to get a pair of Noisebreaker M12-P fans for my 920. Any thoughts? Gotta switch out these stock 920 fans, past 1800 RPM up to max they only offer me a 1 Degree of temp drop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The M12-P are just a little less louder than my stock Antec 1200 case fans, which I run at full 2000RPM most of the time. I think that maybe too loud for many ppl, but I like to hear my PC roar a little


I was looking at Noiseblockers myself but was told in another forum they don't perform well on radiators.

Take a look at these though, you should get similar results while paying much less.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I was looking at Noiseblockers myself but was told in another forum they don't perform well on radiators.
> 
> Take a look at these though, you should get similar results while paying much less.


eh really?








I want something at around 2100 RPM and 30 dBA......


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> eh really?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I want something at around 2100 RPM and 30 dBA......


RPM is not important, CFM is. Which is 78 for the NB's vs 74 for the Scythe's I linked to. But if you prefer noise over performance, then by all means go for it!


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> RPM is not important, CFM is. Which is 78 for the NB's vs 74 for the Scythe's I linked to. But if you prefer noise over performance, then by all means go for it!


Well uhh isn't static pressure the most important for rad fan?


----------



## 8bitG33k

For the Antec radiators you are correct, static pressure is more important due the higher density of the fins.

And the NB's are rated at .73 - 1.33 mm3/h according to the specs on frozencpu.


----------



## DjBodya

Cuz I read that Slip Stream kind of has bad Static pressures.


----------



## spikezone2004

I had those fans from scythe they worked great, a lot of cfm but the noise was very loud at full blast so i barely ran them on full, unfortunately they all burnt out with 1.5 months of each other one went then the others, emailed scythe twice got no answer will never buy there products again, was a shame they worked good most cfm iv seen, I now have cougars best fans i have them on rad and case


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> That would be awesome if you could do that!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Btw, I wonder if two F12 PWM fans would be good to have Pnp at my 620? They are really cheap, 1 fan here in my town cost about 5 euro
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.arctic.ac/en/p/cooling/case-fans/73/arctic-f-pwm.html


The video is uploading to YouTube as I type. ~18 minutes left, I have very slow .9mbps upload, crappy DSL


----------



## 8bitG33k

I'm not sure about the static pressure on the Scythes, cant seem to find any good info anywhere.

The NB's still don't seem like a good choice for radiators though. frozencpu lists the NB's specs as 73 - 133 m^3/h which, correct me if I am wrong, translates into .73 - 1.33 mm3/h. In contrast, the Corsair SP120 High Performance is rated at 3.1 mm3/h (source)


----------



## DjBodya

If only GT's or SP's where PWM


----------



## M3TAl

I still recommend the Swiftech Helix fans. They're ALMOST as good as GT-AP15's which are the ultimate noise to performance 25mm radiator fan. They go for ~$10 and have PWM and non-PWM versions. I just ordered two non-PWM Helix fans on Amazon for $5.99 each but the price went back up recently







.

Oh and if you want to seem the Helix compared to GT-AP15's then check out Martin's Swiftech H220 review. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/01/27/swiftech-h220-prefilled-2x120mm-water-cooling-kit/


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I'm not sure about the static pressure on the Scythes, cant seem to find any good info anywhere.
> 
> The NB's still don't seem like a good choice for radiators though. frozencpu lists the NB's specs as 73 - 133 m^3/h which, correct me if I am wrong, translates into .73 - 1.33 mm3/h. In contrast, the Corsair SP120 High Performance is rated at 3.1 mm3/h (source)


Actually I found out that NB's have a 2.838 mm-H2O from two different sources. That's why they have caught my eye.


----------



## M3TAl

Ok here's the video of how the 620 pump should sound when in 100% working condition.

First off sorry for the beeping in the beginning, my temp alarm for the northbridge was going off because my case fans were shut off. Also sorry for the camera going all over the place I never make videos and it was a smartphone (had phone in one hand and flashlight in the other hand because my room is really dark so I was fumbling all over the place).

The mic gain was on 50% in the beginning and around 57 seconds into the video I changed the mic gain too ~82% which is VERY high. The finger snapping was for two reasons. First was so I could line up the video with the audio easily and second is because we all know how loud a proper finger snap sounds, this way you have a reference for how loud the pump is.


----------



## PedroC1999

Im thinking of buying the 620, can I have some opinions on how well itl cool a FX 6300 chip?


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ok here's the video of how the 620 pump should sound when in 100% working condition.
> 
> First off sorry for the beeping in the beginning, my temp alarm for the northbridge was going off because my case fans were shut off. Also sorry for the camera going all over the place I never make videos and it was a smartphone (had phone in one hand and flashlight in the other hand because my room is really dark so I was fumbling all over the place).
> 
> The mic gain was on 50% in the beginning and around 57 seconds into the video I changed the mic gain too ~82% which is VERY high. The finger snapping was for two reasons. First was so I could line up the video with the audio easily and second is because we all know how loud a proper finger snap sounds, this way you have a reference for how loud the pump is.


its like a video of background noise


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ok here's the video of how the 620 pump should sound when in 100% working condition.
> 
> First off sorry for the beeping in the beginning, my temp alarm for the northbridge was going off because my case fans were shut off. Also sorry for the camera going all over the place I never make videos and it was a smartphone (had phone in one hand and flashlight in the other hand because my room is really dark so I was fumbling all over the place).
> 
> The mic gain was on 50% in the beginning and around 57 seconds into the video I changed the mic gain too ~82% which is VERY high. The finger snapping was for two reasons. First was so I could line up the video with the audio easily and second is because we all know how loud a proper finger snap sounds, this way you have a reference for how loud the pump is.


Great video - I'll add that to the OP.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Im thinking of buying the 620, can I have some opinions on how well itl cool a FX 6300 chip?


Really depends - what cooler do you have right now.
Some will say amazing cooling, some might say not much
(71 rep - you did come far in the end pedroc! Nice to see you here though)


----------



## [CyGnus]

If you have space get a D14 or a Silver Arrow if you are restricted get a H620 simple as that


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> So I think after endless hours of looking at different PWM fans I think I have decided to get a pair of Noisebreaker M12-P fans for my 920. Any thoughts? Gotta switch out these stock 920 fans, past 1800 RPM up to max they only offer me a 1 Degree of temp drop
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The M12-P are just a little less louder than my stock Antec 1200 case fans, which I run at full 2000RPM most of the time. I think that maybe too loud for many ppl, but I like to hear my PC roar a little


I'm using Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans. Expensive yes, better yes, good static pressure, but still noisy at higher RPMs 1200-1500.
Air flow on rads quickly follow the "Law of Diminishing Returns." You can never have too much rad.
I did some tests on rad exhaust temperatures (OC 100% load). If that temp dropped 2c, it only made 1c difference in water temp. The air in temp did not change, but the average temp dropped 1c. This is a simplified way of looking at it and dealing with it. I don't expect it to be that linear.
It took a lot more fan noise to create the wind for that 2c exhaust drop. Heat transfer to the air is not 100% as not 100% of the air touches the fins. So, it figures you have to more than double the air flow to double the temperature transfer.
The rad can have it's own delta T drops for a given heat load (watts). The water temp to the pipes, the heat thru the tube walls, the tubes to the fins, and thru the fins. A rad can be more efficient with HOT water, but we want to cool bath tub warm water. I'm betting the efficiency is an exponential curve and were are on operating on the flat end of it.
There maybe a limit on what you can expect from an aluminum RAD. If I could fit the Swiftech H220 into my case I would buy it. It has brass tubes and copper fins. It also fits 2 120mm fans. If it were 2x 140mm I'd swap out my whole case.
http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h220-liquid-cooling-system.html

I have shipped the 240mm Thermal Take Water 2.0 Extreme on a 130w OC Sandy Bridge -E (6 core). The rads core is ~ 1.5x thicker than an H100. I have used H20 620's on GTX560ti GPU mods. An H20 920 on GTX670 GPU, and a Thermal Take Water 2.0 PRO on the i7 2600K.


----------



## Maximization

no doubt aluminium was used to prevent rusting within the warrenty period.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> I'm using Noctua NF-F12 PWM fans. Expensive yes, better yes, good static pressure, but still noisy at higher RPMs 1200-1500.


1500 RPM Noctua is loud :O? Thats quiet in my books







. I would grab them if it wasnt for the ugly brown color. Also with doing further research I have found out that the NB MP12-P perform just a little underneath than the NF-F12 and in couple instance the same. So I'm just gonna grab a pair MP12-P of Amazon and see, if anything Amazon does have good return policy.


----------



## 8bitG33k

How many db is a RPM?


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ok here's the video of how the 620 pump should sound when in 100% working condition.
> 
> First off sorry for the beeping in the beginning, my temp alarm for the northbridge was going off because my case fans were shut off. Also sorry for the camera going all over the place I never make videos and it was a smartphone (had phone in one hand and flashlight in the other hand because my room is really dark so I was fumbling all over the place).
> 
> The mic gain was on 50% in the beginning and around 57 seconds into the video I changed the mic gain too ~82% which is VERY high. The finger snapping was for two reasons. First was so I could line up the video with the audio easily and second is because we all know how loud a proper finger snap sounds, this way you have a reference for how loud the pump is.


Thank you! I can clearly hear that my pump is defekt







I'm going to show this video to the guy in the shop if he don't believe my pump is broken!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> How many db is a RPM?


I think it depends which fan it is?


----------



## [CyGnus]

8bitG33k DBA is noise RPM is speed not the same measure unit but normally higher the RPM higher the DBA. I would say anything below 20/21DBA is quiet above that until 28/30 you can live with it anything else it sounds like a Jet Engine


----------



## spikezone2004

Yea i need a fan controller already all my fans run 100% so there rather loud even though The cougars are rather quiet most likely the stock case fans I left in there that make a lot of noise I don't really mind and notice it half the time but sometimes its bothers me a lot.

how long have you had the pump? if its past the store return policy you will probably have to contact antec


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> 8bitG33k DBA is noise RPM is speed not the same measure unit but normally higher the RPM higher the DBA. I would say anything below 20/21DBA is quiet above that until 28/30 you can live with it anything else it sounds like a Jet Engine


I was referring to DjBodya's statement that:
Quote:


> 1500 RPM Noctua is loud? Thats quiet in my books.


Sorry, I was being a smartazz







I was tring to say that noise is highly dependent on the quality of the fan-motor and that high RPM's aren't necessarily linear with dba.









I will try to hold my sarcasm in check in the future.


----------



## [CyGnus]




----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I was referring to DjBodya's statement that:
> Sorry, I was being a smartazz
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was tring to say that noise is highly dependent on the quality of the fan-motor and that high RPM's aren't necessarily linear with dba.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will try to hold my sarcasm in check in the future.


Wait, but you not thr one who talked about the Noctua









So now I found a new candidate to what I wanna try on my rad. The Cooler Master Excalibur 120mm. Any thoughts on the Excalibur?
If only microcenter wasnt 30 min drive I would buy them all and then return the undesirable ones XD


----------



## spikezone2004

it has a very wide DB range for the rpms but sometimes you can never trust the manu's db ratings, thats if your worried about the sound,

do you have a frys near you? i went the other day they had a bunch of fans on display on a wall all on and working which iv never seen before was nice to feel cfm and hear the noise


----------



## PedroC1999

Does anyone here run Push/Pull with their 620? Can I have an opninion please? Also is it possible to mount 3 fans in push/push/pull with extre long screws?

Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II Using Tapatalk


----------



## spikezone2004

i have 2 fans mounted on my 620 I havent tried 3 just because it would make it extremely thick with that many fans even 2 makes it thick and i had to mount a side fan on the outside of the case because of it.

as for the push pull method (currently doing intake in rear through rad push/pull and exhaust through the top fans) only thing i can suggest is M3TAl has done lots of tests on the 620 setup with fans and positioning on case you can take a look at his tests http://www.overclock.net/g/a/745531/antec-kuhler-620-8-rad-fan-setups-tested/


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Wait, but you not thr one who talked about the Noctua
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So now I found a new candidate to what I wanna try on my rad. The Cooler Master Excalibur 120mm. Any thoughts on the Excalibur?
> If only microcenter wasnt 30 min drive I would buy them all and then return the undesirable ones XD


Just get the swiftech helix and call it a day.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Does anyone here run Push/Pull with their 620? Can I have an opninion please? Also is it possible to mount 3 fans in push/push/pull with extre long screws?
> 
> Sent From My Rooted Galaxy Ace II Using Tapatalk


When testing P/P with two Cougar Vortex fans I got a ~2C load temp drop (20min Prime95 Blend) compared to the stock Antec fan. Also way quieter.


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> How many db is a RPM?


It's 42.


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> ...So now I found a new candidate to what I wanna try on my rad. The Cooler Master Excalibur 120mm. Any thoughts on the Excalibur?
> If only microcenter wasnt 30 min drive I would buy them all and then return the undesirable ones XD


I have two Excaliburs sitting in a shoe box.
I saw them listed in a fan review (non PWM model) for RAD PUSH.
I was surprised they stink on the noise levels vs. performance.
They measured the intake noise, but I like most listen to the exhaust.

It behaves well across PWM range.
It runs smooth in any orientation.
It's mostly white noise, wind turbulance noise.

It rings in RAD PULL.
Just bringing the fan close to a restriction caused the blades to sing.
A wire ring type finger guard will fix that. Odd how some quiet fans have that built in.


----------



## spikezone2004

I calculated 45.6,

i did ( [3y - 3x^2 +1]^744 ) x ( [- 3x + 3y^2 +1]^745 ) x being the db y being the rpm


----------



## 8bitG33k

WarDad's answer get's my vote because 42 _is_ the answer (to everything) but both answers had me belly laughing!


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> I have two Excaliburs sitting in a shoe box.
> I saw them listed in a fan review (non PWM model) for RAD PUSH.
> I was surprised they stink on the noise levels vs. performance.
> They measured the intake noise, but I like most listen to the exhaust.
> 
> It behaves well across PWM range.
> It runs smooth in any orientation.
> It's mostly white noise, wind turbulance noise.
> 
> It rings in RAD PULL.
> Just bringing the fan close to a restriction caused the blades to sing.
> A wire ring type finger guard will fix that. Odd how some quiet fans have that built in.


I dont mind noise Anything at 30 dBA if fine with me. I am gonna have it in p/p. What do you mean by it rings O.O


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I dont mind noise Anything at 30 dBA if fine with me. I am gonna have it in p/p. What do you mean by it rings O.O


The turbulance (in Pull near RAD) causes the blades to resonate. Might be due to the dual pitch (folded over) blade design. Also blades don't look tapered enough for the outer edge moving faster than inner. Maybe that's why the wire ring finger guard turbulance fixes the ringing. It was more effective than using a gutted fan for a shroud (spacer).


----------



## spikezone2004

Not to sure what he means by sings or the part he mentioned about the wire ring, not sure if its the same as whats on my cougars in each screw hole there is a rubber pad but thats to prevent vibration noises dont think its the same as what WarDad is talking about


----------



## PedroC1999

Good morning! Can I ask if the pump on the 620 is good enough for the rad to be mounted on the roof of my case? Or would it decrease the cooling ability?


----------



## M3TAl

The orientation of the radiator has no affect on the pump's ability to move water.


----------



## PedroC1999

Thanks


----------



## hustler68

Hi guys just a quick question...

I have 2 Gentle Typhoon Scythe 1850rpm fans and want to have them push/pull on my 620..

I called OCUK and asked them what fan splitter I would need to make the above happen. They then told me this..

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-071-AK

Now the problem I have got is that the pump plugs into the cpu header and I presume the fan splitter would plug into the female fan header from the Kuhler to run the 2 fans.. The only problem is the lead that they told me to get is 4 pin on all headers and so I wouldnt be able to plug the splitter into the lead from the Kuhler as thats only 3 pin...

What splitter would i need to get then?? Would it be a 3 pin to 2 x 3 pin??

Thanks guys....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Good morning! Can I ask if the pump on the 620 is good enough for the rad to be mounted on the roof of my case? Or would it decrease the cooling ability?


wouldn't be a problem - however the pump/reservoir should be usually at the bottom of the rad - this decreases the amount of bubbles that can be created.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hustler68*
> 
> Hi guys just a quick question...
> 
> I have 2 Gentle Typhoon Scythe 1850rpm fans and want to have them push/pull on my 620..
> 
> I called OCUK and asked them what fan splitter I would need to make the above happen. They then told me this..
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-071-AK
> 
> Now the problem I have got is that the pump plugs into the cpu header and I presume the fan splitter would plug into the female fan header from the Kuhler to run the 2 fans.. The only problem is the lead that they told me to get is 4 pin on all headers and so I wouldnt be able to plug the splitter into the lead from the Kuhler as thats only 3 pin...
> 
> What splitter would i need to get then?? Would it be a 3 pin to 2 x 3 pin??
> 
> Thanks guys....


Ok - here goes:
You have one cable going into the CPU header socket from your 620 - that remains unchanged.

Now you have the two fans off that 1x 3pin off the 620.
You'll need a 3pin male to 2x 4 pin female -> that's presuming your Typhoon Scythe's are 4pin - if they are 3 pin however, then yes 1 to 2x 3pin adapter is what you need.
For example:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-024-NX


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hustler68*
> 
> Hi guys just a quick question...
> 
> I have 2 Gentle Typhoon Scythe 1850rpm fans and want to have them push/pull on my 620..
> 
> I called OCUK and asked them what fan splitter I would need to make the above happen. They then told me this..
> 
> https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CB-071-AK
> 
> Now the problem I have got is that the pump plugs into the cpu header and I presume the fan splitter would plug into the female fan header from the Kuhler to run the 2 fans.. The only problem is the lead that they told me to get is 4 pin on all headers and so I wouldnt be able to plug the splitter into the lead from the Kuhler as thats only 3 pin...
> 
> What splitter would i need to get then?? Would it be a 3 pin to 2 x 3 pin??
> 
> Thanks guys....


if i understand correctly what you are trying to do is plug your 2 scythe fans that will be on your radiator into the plug from the 620 unit, as far as i know they do not have to be plugged directly into it you can plug it straight to your psu which is what i have done with mine.


----------



## hustler68

Ah... Right...

I wasn't sure if you could bypass the plug from the Kuhler and connect directly to the motherboard..

I will give that a go....

I presume if I plugged them into a fan controller then I wouldn't have to have them on full blast 100% of the time...

Would that be the better option?


----------



## spikezone2004

Yes it would be, also depending on fan controller you can look at rpms as well for each fan and some have temp sensors to place which is what i want onmy fan controller still waiting to buy one thinking of going with bitfenix recon i think it is or possibly the new PWM splitter by swiftech so i can plug all my fans into that, that then goes into my mobo so i can control all my fans through program like SpeedFan

for my plug on 620 i have the orriginal antec fan plugged into it which is on my side panel now


----------



## ilikebeer

In need of quite fast advice,

I got an antec kuhler 620 for a client build (never used one of these wc things before, only custom loops) and it's making a loud noise (like an electric shaver).

Basically I plugged it into a 3 pin socket on the mobo, and selected 'full on' in the bios, so I assume that is giving it 12v. It shows an rpm of 1400 in the bios.

I've made 100% sure it's not air trapped inside, i shook the hell out of the rad and pump serveral times, tried different orientations and the electric shave noise is still there. The only way i can reduce the noise to an acceptable level is if i use the bios to reduce the pump speed to around 700rpm.

Two questions,

1) Is this normal for this unit? I'm really suprised at how loud the pump is, that electric shaver noise can be heard from 3 metres away easily.

2) at 700rpm, does the pump move enough water to not significantly affect cooling performance?

Thanks for advice.


----------



## Falmod

Not sure about 2 as I havnt tried it but it shouldnt be that loud no. My 620 runs very quiet


----------



## nukedathlonman

Quote:


> In need of quite fast advice,
> 
> I got an antec kuhler 620 for a client build (never used one of these wc things before, only custom loops) and it's making a loud noise (like an electric shaver).
> 
> Basically I plugged it into a 3 pin socket on the mobo, and selected 'full on' in the bios, so I assume that is giving it 12v. It shows an rpm of 1400 in the bios.
> 
> I've made 100% sure it's not air trapped inside, i shook the hell out of the rad and pump serveral times, tried different orientations and the electric shave noise is still there. The only way i can reduce the noise to an acceptable level is if i use the bios to reduce the pump speed to around 700rpm.
> 
> Two questions,
> 
> 1) Is this normal for this unit? I'm really suprised at how loud the pump is, that electric shaver noise can be heard from 3 metres away easily.
> 
> 2) at 700rpm, does the pump move enough water to not significantly affect cooling performance?
> 
> Thanks for advice.


You moved it around and shook it up for air pocket elimination and it's still making noise, then I suspect the pump is lunch. :-(


----------



## ilikebeer

I've applied for a refund on it. In the mean-time i've ordered this one (arriving tomorow). Generally when I get one bad product i'm wary of it being a bad batch so i'm happier to try another product.



Seidon 120XL. It's pretty new so not many reviews, if any. Fingers crossed I don't get another lemon.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilikebeer*
> 
> I've applied for a refund on it. In the mean-time i've ordered this one (arriving tomorow). Generally when I get one bad product i'm wary of it being a bad batch so i'm happier to try another product.
> 
> 
> 
> Seidon 120XL. It's pretty new so not many reviews, if any. Fingers crossed I don't get another lemon.


those pipes look very thin though.


----------



## psycow

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilikebeer*
> 
> Seidon 120XL. It's pretty new so not many reviews, if any. Fingers crossed I don't get another lemon.


Which is the same product as the 620, just branded CM, instead of Antec


----------



## DjBodya

So I have finally modified my Antec 1200 case to fit in the 920 at the top exhaust. I also somehow managed to drop my idle temps by another degree yay gooo side panel fan







.


----------



## unknown601

I just picked up a 620 for my 1100t and i got 2 different temperature readings from my CPU????

Idle temperature

which one is the real temperature:confuseds


----------



## ilikebeer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> those pipes look very thin though.


I'm sure they'll suffice.

If the pump is the same as the 620 then ok, will know in two hours or so how it runs. Tuns out its not the same pump, coolermaster made their own pump for this not 3rd party.


----------



## PedroC1999

Sorry to say guys... I just ordered a H100i, My father had some spare money so we went with it... Thanks for the advice though


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ilikebeer*
> 
> In need of quite fast advice,
> 
> I got an antec kuhler 620 for a client build (never used one of these wc things before, only custom loops) and it's making a loud noise (like an electric shaver).
> 
> Basically I plugged it into a 3 pin socket on the mobo, and selected 'full on' in the bios, so I assume that is giving it 12v. It shows an rpm of 1400 in the bios.
> 
> I've made 100% sure it's not air trapped inside, i shook the hell out of the rad and pump serveral times, tried different orientations and the electric shave noise is still there. The only way i can reduce the noise to an acceptable level is if i use the bios to reduce the pump speed to around 700rpm.
> 
> Two questions,
> 
> 1) Is this normal for this unit? I'm really suprised at how loud the pump is, that electric shaver noise can be heard from 3 metres away easily.
> 
> 2) at 700rpm, does the pump move enough water to not significantly affect cooling performance?
> 
> Thanks for advice.


No that's not normal, and no 700rpm is not enough for the Kuhler to be efficient.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> I just picked up a 620 for my 1100t and i got 2 different temperature readings from my CPU????
> 
> Idle temperature
> 
> which one is the real temperature:confuseds


It's the CPU core temps on the lower part of the picture. AMD has never accurately given idle temps. It's based on an algorithm that is only accurate at higher or load temps.

Oh yeah, and your radiator is upside down. There is a mini res where those pipes feed into the radiator and if it is up higher than the pump it can pick up air bubbles. This could potentially make your cooling worse and quite possible damage the pump.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Pump speed should always be at 3k- fan speed however can go down to 600RPM


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Pump speed should always be at 3k- fan speed however can go down to 600RPM


My 620 v4 i had spinned like 1500rpm








I hope that the new 620 v4 is working good









But what do you think about Antec Kuhler H2O 1220 Gen ? I'm going to put it in the front of mine Fractal design define r4. I know that a 240mm radiator fits but is the tubes lenght enough?
Or should I get 920 v4 instead? I have heard that H80I is almost as good as the h100i.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> My 620 v4 i had spinned like 1500rpm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I hope that the new 620 v4 is working good
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But what do you think about Antec Kuhler H2O 1220 Gen ? I'm going to put it in the front of mine Fractal design define r4. I know that a 240mm radiator fits but is the tubes lenght enough?
> Or should I get 920 v4 instead? I have heard that H80I is almost as good as the h100i.


If you want to get a long rad - go for the h220
Single rad - get the 920









Tubes i DOUBT will be long enough from the FRONT of the fractal case to the CPU socket.


----------



## Hardcoreplayer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If you want to get a long rad - go for the h220
> Single rad - get the 920
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tubes i DOUBT will be long enough from the FRONT of the fractal case to the CPU socket.


Yeah, i have seen that cooler but nobody sell it here in sweden...

The tubes is 326 mm so it should be enough







But I will see what im going for









What do you think about f12 arctic? I think im going for one of these. Pwm and it only cost 49kr







Later im going for one more to pnp


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hardcoreplayer*
> 
> Yeah, i have seen that cooler but nobody sell it here in sweden...
> 
> The tubes is 326 mm so it should be enough
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But I will see what im going for
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> What do you think about f12 arctic? I think im going for one of these. Pwm and it only cost 49kr
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Later im going for one more to pnp


No idea mate


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> I just picked up a 620 for my 1100t and i got 2 different temperature readings from my CPU????
> 
> Idle temperature
> 
> which one is the real temperature:confuseds


It should be the second temps, the one showing each core. I also found it always good to compare the temps between couple of programs to see which one are telling you the true temp.
Also I believe your rad should be mounted with the tubes at the bottom to help with the water circulation.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pedroc1999*
> 
> Sorry to say guys... I just ordered a H100i, My father had some spare money so we went with it... Thanks for the advice though


Should of got the Swiftech H220


----------



## iakovl

going to get the 620 for my asrock mobo with i5 3570K

is there any issues with the 620 i need to know?
going to fit it into CM elite 620 case

how do i know the version on the ANTEC i want to buy? and what is the diffidence?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *iakovl*
> 
> going to get the 620 for my asrock mobo with i5 3570K
> 
> is there any issues with the 620 i need to know?
> going to fit it into CM elite 620 case
> 
> how do i know the version on the ANTEC i want to buy? and what is the diffidence?


the latest version is usually the one that's available.
As for the differences, search through this thread, you'll see a few things.

Fitting the 620 is no problem, just remember that pump might need to be shaken, and not stirred when being fitted.


----------



## Falmod

I was lucky that mine was fine and needed n shaking etc, Love your new PP btw Dubbed


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> I was lucky that mine was fine and needed n shaking etc, Love your new PP btw Dubbed


cheers man - Chimp is blushing


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Hi all. Thought I'd share my setup I have 2 Kuhler 620's in series with a Corsair *gasp* H80 ( blasphemy, I know) cooling my system. I'm able to run at 4.7Ghz w/o breaking 88C on prime95 and my 670's max out at 46C with some Furmark. I'm planning on adding a 240 between the CPU and GPU's and also thought about removing the impellers on all 3 pumps and adding a external pump. Again blaphsmy, I know. I was paging through the forum and I like Plywood99's idea of using 3/8"ID hose, so I might do that in the future too. As of today, I have 1/4" ID 3/8" OD go cart fuel line









The loop goes like this:

Reservoir (5.25" bay)
GPU1
CPU
GPU2
RS360
Reservoir

So Kuhler 620 on GPU1 is in the bottom pcie slot closest to psu, over to the h80 on the CPU, back to the second Kuhler 620 on the first pcie slot, then up to the rs360 on the top of my case. I did it this way since the motors are connected to the cooling block, I didn't want the kuhler 620 motors feeding each other. Also installed a ball valve "Tee" fitting that drains through a bulkhead adaptor. Doesn't do much draining though, just the bottom of the reservoir and the radiator.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^beautiful setup man!


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^beautiful setup man!


Thank you!


----------



## M3TAl

Does any one have videos or photos taking apart the 620/920? By taking apart I mean completely customizing it... cutting the tubing and fitting your own etc. Are the fittings removable at all so you can add angled fittings or change tubing diameter?

I ask because someday in the future I may add the 620 to a gpu in addition to an H220 or custom loop similar to what DirtyTrickster did there.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does any one have videos or photos taking apart the 620/920? By taking apart I mean completely customizing it... cutting the tubing and fitting your own etc. Are the fittings removable at all so you can add angled fittings or change tubing diameter?
> 
> I ask because someday in the future I may add the 620 to a gpu in addition to an H220 or custom loop similar to what DirtyTrickster did there.


It's pretty easy to remove the barbs. There is a single screw with a large washer in between the input/output hoses. Just remove that screw/washer and pull out the barbs. Unfortunately you can't install new barbs. The only thing you can do is replace the hose with 1/4" ID X 3/8" OD hose, like I did or leave an inch or so of the original hose there and throw some 1/2" ID hose over top of it.


----------



## M3TAl

Hmmmm, I don't like not being able to add fittings.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

If you do find that video or make one. Link one here please so I can add it to the op mod section


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If you do find that video or make one. Link one here please so I can add it to the op mod section


I just did a quick search and couldn't find and videos. I don't think there is one. I can't really make one as my units have already been disassembled. I will be removing the impellers tomorrow. I could snap a few pictures of that if you're interested.


----------



## M3TAl

I would be interested... I like seeing the insides of things. Heck, some one send me a dead 620/920 I'll take it apart haha.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> I just did a quick search and couldn't find and videos. I don't think there is one. I can't really make one as my units have already been disassembled. I will be removing the impellers tomorrow. I could snap a few pictures of that if you're interested.


If that's not too much trouble - yeah upload them all in one post - then I'll link that post in the OP


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If that's not too much trouble - yeah upload them all in one post - then I'll link that post in the OP


I removed the fins on all 3 of my impellers today at lunch. It was a pretty easy task, we will see in a day or two if everything went back together ok.








*Kuhler 620*

This is how you remove the barb from the unit. If the original assembly was still in place, you would just use a razor blade to cut the tube off the barb by gently running it the length of the barb then peeling the hose off. Make sure not to gouge the barb though.






Now to the impeller...
First thing - removed all of the screws - 12 short screws & 2 long screws


Removed "water block"


Plate covering impeller


Plate removed - impeller exposed



Impeller removed


Impeller


Here is where I didn't know if I should remove the impeller/magnet assemble entirely and leave a large cavity in there that might or might not create some turbulence and possible air pocket. I decided to just cut the fins off as best as I could to make for the best flow past the impeller rod.

Impeller without fins



The windings to the motor and the rest of the electronics


Modified impeller reinstalled


Reassembly. These two screws allow access to the windings/electronics


Reassembled


*Corsair H80*

I'm going to post these here just for reference purpose. Feel free to delete if necessary since this is Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 Owners Club

Much easier access - Top pops off and just remove these four screws


Impeller.



Inlet/Outlet


removed impeller from magnet


Modified impeller reinstalled


----------



## Maximization

wow.. looks all wet and gushy inside


----------



## M3TAl

You get a +rep man! I wonder if the 920 uses the exact same pcb with some more wires soldered onto it or something, or if it's just a different pcb all together.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You get a +rep man! I wonder if the 920 uses the exact same pcb with some more wires soldered onto it or something, or if it's just a different pcb all together.


I would assume same pcb. Maybe larger motor/impeller?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> I would assume same pcb. Maybe larger motor/impeller?


what a legend - + rep and added to the OP, thanks for sharing bro!


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Thanks for the reps guys!


----------



## M3TAl

I think the motor and impeller are the same.... I was talking about the USB function for the software. I wonder if there is a way to solder/mod some wires onto it and connect to usb.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I think the motor and impeller are the same.... I was talking about the USB function for the software. I wonder if there is a way to solder/mod some wires onto it and connect to usb.


Well there are 3 open terminals on the PCB.


----------



## M3TAl

Very interesting, you should uh... take one for the team.









Need to see a 920 pcb for comparison.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Very interesting, you should uh... take one for the team.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Need to see a 920 pcb for comparison.


If I had a 920, I would have tore it apart by now









Edit: Found this - looks different

920


My 620


----------



## Callumpy

Annoyingly I have had to RMA my motherboard.

When it came to taking the 620 off, I had a problem as one of the metal inserts kept spinning around inside the back-plate when I tried to loosen the screw on the cage, it took almost an hour of different methods to get it off, in the end we just jammed a screwdriver in the metal insert and quickly unscrewed the cage off the front.

Now I've got to wait for Antec to reply to my support ticket for new metal inserts and a new back-plate.









Has anyone else on here had to order a new back-plate, and will they actually send me one?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Annoyingly I have had to RMA my motherboard.
> 
> When it came to taking the 620 off, I had a problem as one of the metal inserts kept spinning around inside the back-plate when I tried to loosen the screw on the cage, it took almost an hour of different methods to get it off, in the end we just jammed a screwdriver in the metal insert and quickly unscrewed the cage off the front.
> 
> Now I've got to wait for Antec to reply to my support ticket for new metal inserts and a new back-plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else on here had to order a new back-plate, and will they actually send me one?


I sent a request just last week.
Might take time they said - but should come.
I'll let you know when I get mine in.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> If I had a 920, I would have tore it apart by now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Found this - looks different
> 
> 920
> 
> 
> My 620


I'm assuming the usb is the pink, black, green, and white wires, unfortunately it does seem different.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Annoyingly I have had to RMA my motherboard.
> 
> When it came to taking the 620 off, I had a problem as one of the metal inserts kept spinning around inside the back-plate when I tried to loosen the screw on the cage, it took almost an hour of different methods to get it off, in the end we just jammed a screwdriver in the metal insert and quickly unscrewed the cage off the front.
> 
> Now I've got to wait for Antec to reply to my support ticket for new metal inserts and a new back-plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else on here had to order a new back-plate, and will they actually send me one?


Plastic works very well....
I most likely will need to if I am to remount my pump ever again. Cuz mine is loose after mounting it once....
Speaking of RMA and Antec. My RMA of the Antec 1200 V3 Bog boy fan finally came through after I called them, its been over a month XD. Apparently they lost the shipment order :/. So I suggest to follow up and give them a call about your ticket after like a week of waiting.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Annoyingly I have had to RMA my motherboard.
> 
> When it came to taking the 620 off, I had a problem as one of the metal inserts kept spinning around inside the back-plate when I tried to loosen the screw on the cage, it took almost an hour of different methods to get it off, in the end we just jammed a screwdriver in the metal insert and quickly unscrewed the cage off the front.
> 
> Now I've got to wait for Antec to reply to my support ticket for new metal inserts and a new back-plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Has anyone else on here had to order a new back-plate, and will they actually send me one?


Sorry man but I can't help to laugh out loud at the fact that you would fiddle with that for "almost an hour". If you push on the thumb screw, the metal insert will stick out of the plastic enough to clamp on a pair of pliers. You really ought to have a couple various types of pliers around the house.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I sent a request just last week.
> Might take time they said - but should come.
> I'll let you know when I get mine in.


Ah sweet, I hope it doesn't take too long







Its good to hear that they replace them though, didn't fancy buying a new cooler and they don't seem to sell them separately on the store on their site.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Plastic works very well....
> I most likely will need to if I am to remount my pump ever again. Cuz mine is loose after mounting it once....
> Speaking of RMA and Antec. My RMA of the Antec 1200 V3 Bog boy fan finally came through after I called them, its been over a month XD. Apparently they lost the shipment order :/. So I suggest to follow up and give them a call about your ticket after like a week of waiting.


I actually had a look for a number to call on the Antec site but I couldn't find any for the UK, ill have to have a harder look later and see if I can give them a call.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Sorry man but I can't help to laugh out loud at the fact that you would fiddle with that for "almost an hour". If you push on the thumb screw, the metal insert will stick out of the plastic enough to clamp on a pair of pliers. You really ought to have a couple various types of pliers around the house.


We do have pliers, but I couldn't seem to get the metal insert to stick out of the back far enough to grab it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Ah sweet, I hope it doesn't take too long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its good to hear that they replace them though, didn't fancy buying a new cooler and they don't seem to sell them separately on the store on their site.
> I actually had a look for a number to call on the Antec site but I couldn't find any for the UK, ill have to have a harder look later and see if I can give them a call.
> We do have pliers, but I couldn't seem to get the metal insert to stick out of the back far enough to grab it.


Europe RMA got back to me:

"Dear customer,

Could you pls point out the part no. from attachment photo to avoid sending wrong item.

Thank you for using Antec products"

basically asking again if it is intel or AMD.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> We do have pliers, but I couldn't seem to get the metal insert to stick out of the back far enough to grab it.


Gotcha, wasn't trying to be a dick, even though my comment was kind of dick-ish.









But yeah next time just push in on the thumb screw and push the black plastic backplate in towards the board and the metal insert will stick out enough to get a pair of needlenose pliers on.

It was pretty tough the first time around. This is my 5th Kuhler 620 I've owned (I buy and sell a lot of systems locally) and I've learned to tighten the thumbscrews with my fingers just enough so I don't strip the plastic.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Gotcha, wasn't trying to be a dick, even though my comment was kind of dick-ish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah next time just push in on the thumb screw and push the black plastic backplate in towards the board and the metal insert will stick out enough to get a pair of needlenose pliers on.
> 
> It was pretty tough the first time around. This is my 5th Kuhler 620 I've owned (I buy and sell a lot of systems locally) and I've learned to tighten the thumbscrews with my fingers just enough so I don't strip the plastic.


When I get my new backplate - I'll do a full instructions video for the antec 920


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> I've learned to tighten the thumbscrews with my fingers just enough so I don't strip the plastic.


That's what I do. There is really no need for a screwdriver. Once in a while I'll wiggle them a bit to make sure they haven't loosened (they never do).


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Europe RMA got back to me:
> 
> "Dear customer,
> 
> Could you pls point out the part no. from attachment photo to avoid sending wrong item.
> 
> Thank you for using Antec products"
> 
> basically asking again if it is intel or AMD.


Sweet, hopefully I get a reply soon, and it'll be along the same line as yours as I also didn't include that I need the Intel back-plate, oops.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Gotcha, wasn't trying to be a dick, even though my comment was kind of dick-ish.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> But yeah next time just push in on the thumb screw and push the black plastic backplate in towards the board and the metal insert will stick out enough to get a pair of needlenose pliers on.
> 
> It was pretty tough the first time around. This is my 5th Kuhler 620 I've owned (I buy and sell a lot of systems locally) and I've learned to tighten the thumbscrews with my fingers just enough so I don't strip the plastic.


Don't worry, it didn't appear 'dick-ish' to be honest.

Very good advise on not using a screwdriver lol, the first time I installed the cooler I actually didn't use a screwdriver, but for some reason I did last time and yeah, the result was breaking the plastic back-plate.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Sweet, hopefully I get a reply soon, and it'll be along the same line as yours as I also didn't include that I need the Intel back-plate, oops.
> Don't worry, it didn't appear 'dick-ish' to be honest.
> 
> Very good advise on not using a screwdriver lol, the first time I installed the cooler I actually didn't use a screwdriver, but for some reason I did last time and yeah, the result was breaking the plastic back-plate.


Well in my previous email it clearly states I need the LGA 1155 and the adhesive strips (even the title of the email is that)...no idea why they are asking again to be honest.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Ah sweet, I hope it doesn't take too long
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its good to hear that they replace them though, didn't fancy buying a new cooler and they don't seem to sell them separately on the store on their site.
> I actually had a look for a number to call on the Antec site but I couldn't find any for the UK, ill have to have a harder look later and see if I can give them a call.
> We do have pliers, but I couldn't seem to get the metal insert to stick out of the back far enough to grab it.


I couldn't find the Antec support number until I googled Antec Contact US. But I dunno if they have any offices outside of the US
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> That's what I do. There is really no need for a screwdriver. Once in a while I'll wiggle them a bit to make sure they haven't loosened (they never do).


Not if you are mounting on a LGA775 board. You need a screwdriver from the start. The LGA775 holes are off and one has to kind of insert the screws a little on an angle sideways.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I couldn't find the Antec support number until I googled Antec Contact US. But I dunno if they have any offices outside of the US
> Not if you are mounting on a LGA775 board. You need a screwdriver from the start. The LGA775 holes are off and one has to kind of insert the screws a little on an angle sideways.


The email I got from antec was from:
Europe RMA
[email protected]

RMA Dept.

T +31-(010) 2088919 | F +31-(010) 4371752

Hope that helps


----------



## 8bitG33k

Got my replacement 920 from my RMA back today. It does *not* have that same major scratch at the bottom of the waterblock this time.

Will post with new temps. On a side note, I did increase airflow in my case by rigging an additional front intake - it hasn't made any difference with my 212+, let's see if I can stay under 89 with the 920 this time.


----------



## M3TAl

Goodluck. Hope this one performs better and is issue free.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Do let me know how it performs!
Seems like mine was supposedly normal for 60c on SB and 75c on IB...
I'll be probably getting a h220 in soon.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Under similar conditions as before my max temp has been 85c this time. 4C down from my previous 89. This is after 55 mins of p95. Ambient is a little higher this time (~68F from prev 65F), and vcore is 1.281 rather than 1.272, CPU is at 4.5GHz. I disabled the addtl. front intake fan I had installed to get as close as possible to my previous test conditions.

One variable that has changed are the 2 Corsair SP120's (High Performance) I am using now. Previously I had been using a Coolermaster R4 together with a Bitfenix Pro Spectre on my first run, then the stock Antec fans during later testing. With either fan config I had gotten up to 89C. Honestly I dont think the fans themselves would have such an impact.

Liquid temp is 31.7 rather than the previous 34-35.

I'll let you draw the conclusions for yourselves - I'll go with the simple fact that my temps are modestly lower. Feel free to comment and speculate though, I am curious what input you might have.

On a side note, the H220 is looking mighty attractive short of a custom loop.

And yes, I know (radiator) size matters


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> And yes, I know (radiator) size matters


That's what she said.


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The email I got from antec was from:
> Europe RMA
> [email protected]
> 
> RMA Dept.
> 
> T +31-(010) 2088919 | F +31-(010) 4371752
> 
> Hope that helps


Cheers, but isn't +31 the area code for The Netherlands?
I'm not sure calling that is a good idea, unless you did?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Cheers, but isn't +31 the area code for The Netherlands I'm not sure calling that is a good idea, unless you did?


just send them an email instead


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> just send them an email instead


Ok will do, cheers









I so hope I can get a replacement soon, my replacement motherboard arrived today and I don't have any spare coolers or heat-sinks lying around.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Ok will do, cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I so hope I can get a replacement soon, my replacement motherboard arrived today and I don't have any spare coolers or heat-sinks lying around.


Always keep the stock one!
I have 2 intel stock coolers lying here - one is in my system atm.
Going to put the Antec in now and see the temps difference on stock vs stock cooler whilst folding.
80c was max temp on stock with my stock intel cooler -> de-lidded btw


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Always keep the stock one!
> I have 2 intel stock coolers lying here - one is in my system atm.
> Going to put the Antec in now and see the temps difference on stock vs stock cooler whilst folding.
> 80c was max temp on stock with my stock intel cooler -> de-lidded btw


Holy hell, I've never even ran my 3570K above 60c, that's mad!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Holy hell, I've never even ran my 3570K above 60c, that's mad!


Lol - then you've never folded








My i3 runs at 60c whilst folding with the arctic pro 7 cooler
My i7 with stock cooler runs at 80c

Soon I'll have my antec temps.


----------



## Falmod

My FX-6100 usually runs between 55 and 60c whilst folding or boincing


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Falmod*
> 
> My FX-6100 usually runs between 55 and 60c whilst folding or boincing


But AMD doesn't count


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Lol - then you've never folded
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My i3 runs at 60c whilst folding with the arctic pro 7 cooler
> My i7 with stock cooler runs at 80c
> 
> Soon I'll have my antec temps.


I did fold for a bit, I run my 3570k at stock though and at 100% usage it sits around 50c. (thats under the antec)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I did fold for a bit, I run my 3570k at stock though and at 100% usage it sits around 50c. (thats under the antec)


that's mentally low - but wait OC'ed or not?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Final testing and conclusion.

I put the stock Antec fans back on and kept them running at full speed the entire time. Temps got up to 84 this time around, which only 1C better than having Chill Control control the fan speeds. All conditions were the same or very close to the same as in previous tests. To recall, my max temp on air (212+) hit 93.

I had kept the Corsair SP120 (High Performance) in my previous test at full speed also, and the temps had gotten up to 85C.

While this is a significant temp difference in itself, I doubt most people are willing to keep their fans running at full speed all the time - as this is what is necessary to achieve the lowest possible temps with the 920 and for it to be competitive with a $30 aircooler. For stress testing purposes, this is probably tolerable for many people.

My theory was that since Chill Control operates off the liquid temp rather than the CPU temp, that there was going to be a delay between the CPU hitting high temps and the fans picking up speed. Obviously the Chill Control settings matter as my temps had hit 89 when allowing Chill Control to control my fan speeds. I used two different control settings, one being Fan Ramp Up speed 30/ Full Speed 35 and Fan Ramp up 40/ Full Speed 50, in both cases my temps hit 89.

Running the two different sets of fans (stock Antec and Corsair SP120's) at full speeds resulted in a max temp of 84 (Antec) and 85 (Corsair).

The unit performs adequately, but some mid-performing air coolers such as the 212+ of the Xigmatek SD1283 which can both be had for ~ 30USD offer a far better value, especially when not overclocked. Nose levels will be higher if not the same with the 920 but mileage will vary because this is highly dependent on the settings a given indiviudal sets in Antec's Chill Control software. The 920 is far from being a bad product, but for the average user I think Antec's price mark is far beyond the sweet spot of price/ performance ratio as similar performing (air) coolers can be had for less money. However, for overclocking and stress testing purposes this can be a good investment, depending on an individuals budget and personal opinion.

Feel free to agree or disagree. I am always open to debate.


----------



## Falmod

:O I had best go back to my corner then lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Final testing and conclusion.
> 
> I put the stock Antec fans back on and kept them running at full speed the entire time. Temps got up to 84 this time around, which only 1C better than having Chill Control control the fan speeds. All conditions were the same or very close to the same as in previous tests. To recall, my max temp on air (212+) hit 93.
> 
> I had kept the Corsair SP120 (High Performance) in my previous test at full speed also, and the temps had gotten up to 85C.
> 
> While this is a significant temp difference in itself, I doubt most people are willing to keep their fans running at full speed all the time - as this is what is necessary to achieve the lowest possible temps with the 920 and for it to be competitive with a $30 aircooler. For stress testing purposes, this is probably tolerable for many people.
> 
> My theory was that since Chill Control operates off the liquid temp rather than the CPU temp, that there was going to be a delay between the CPU hitting high temps and the fans picking up speed. Obviously the Chill Control settings matter as my temps had hit 89 when allowing Chill Control to control my fan speeds. I used two different control settings, one being Fan Ramp Up speed 30/ Full Speed 35 and Fan Ramp up 40/ Full Speed 50, in both cases my temps hit 89.
> 
> Running the two different sets of fans (stock Antec and Corsair SP120's) at full speeds resulted in a max temp of 84 (Antec) and 85 (Corsair).
> 
> The unit performs adequately, but some mid-performing air coolers such as the 212+ of the Xigmatek SD1283 which can both be had for ~ 30USD offer a far better value, especially when not overclocked. Nose levels will be higher if not the same with the 920 but mileage will vary because this is highly dependent on the settings a given indiviudal sets in Antec's Chill Control software. The 920 is far from being a bad product, but for the average user I think Antec's price mark is far beyond the sweet spot of price/ performance ratio as similar performing (air) coolers can be had for less money. However, for overclocking and stress testing purposes this can be a good investment, depending on an individuals budget and personal opinion.


Really appreciate the input +rep for that!
Thanks for sharing your HONEST thoughts with us









I have my Antec 920 in and spent over 1hr recording to make a nice comprehensible video guide - I must say I'm very happy with it - I will edit it and render it tonight and hopefully upload it tonight too (or tomorrow morning)
I'll post it here and in the OP once it is done. Covers everything you need to know (including moving the stupid serial number sticker of your motherboard lol)


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Really appreciate the input +rep for that!
> Thanks for sharing your HONEST thoughts with us
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have my Antec 920 in and spent over 1hr recording to make a nice comprehensible video guide - I must say I'm very happy with it - I will edit it and render it tonight and hopefully upload it tonight too (or tomorrow morning)
> I'll post it here and in the OP once it is done. Covers everything you need to know (including moving the stupid serial number sticker of your motherboard lol)


Thanks for the rep! Apparently it goes away if the post is edited - which is what I did when I added that last line.


----------



## M3TAl

I don't remember, how is your case airflow and rad setup?

Mine's like this:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I don't remember, how is your case airflow and rad setup?
> 
> Mine's like this:


Nice one man - are you talking about my case?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Thanks for the rep! Apparently it goes away if the post is edited - which is what I did when I added that last line.


No probs man!

In other news - I'm speechless for the time being - maybe I have a weak WU - but I'll leave it folding for another 3hrs and also see tomorrow - My temps...have gotten magically better.

I'm almost certain that it is due to what it is currently folding, but who knows...I'll keep y'all updated:

Stock intel cooler with stock voltages (no OC): 81c


Antec 920 + stock fans + stock voltage (no OC): 58c


This was my expression after I came back from Taekwondo (leaving the PC fold):


----------



## stickg1

Mate, run down to the training pitch and make sure the boys are up for another series of big wins. Probably bring Rooney a lady of the night, RVP some opiates for his hip, and a couple kegs for the rest of the boys. Chicharito might want a nice home cooked Mexican meal. Although he lives with his mom so I bet he gets fed well.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Mate, run down to the training pitch and make sure the boys are up for another series of big wins. Probably bring Rooney a lady of the night, RVP some opiates for his hip, and a couple kegs for the rest of the boys. Chicharito might want a nice home cooked Mexican meal. Although he lives with his mom so I bet he gets fed well.


hahahaha
Love the OT


----------



## M3TAl

I'm wondering about 8bitG33k's airflow. Now we all know a 920 won't outperform a highend ~$60+ aircooler but I feel a 920 should beat a 212+ decently.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'm wondering about 8bitG33k's airflow. Now we all know a 920 won't outperform a highend ~$60+ aircooler but I feel a 920 should beat a 212+ decently.


And it does beat the 212+ by about 10C. But only if you are willing to tolerate screaming loud fans. And the fans must be running at full speed all the time, ie no ramping because of the delay from the CPU temp rising until the liquid temp rises until finally Chill Control ramps up the fans. Otherwise the 89C spike in p95 (it's only during one particular worker thread where it maxes out at 89) will have come and gone by the time Chill Control reacts. This 10c gap decreases with lower fan settings. Then again I'm sure I could tweak the 212+ a bit to bring the temp down from it's 93 probably not by much though. Especially when considering that I ran the 212+ with a single fan in a push config this whole time and the 920 in push/ pull with 2 fans. But push/ pull on my 212+ yielded only a 1C difference on my old rig with a Q8300 oc'd to 3.0GHz.

As for airflow, so far I have adhered to the theory that exhausting hot air is more important than the intake of cool air, as the negative pressure created by the exhaust will pull in fresh air from the outside. That doesn't mean one shouldn't run any intake fans, just that it's not as important as exhausting hot air. I did add a 2nd 120mm intake in the drive bay after you suggested I should increase airflow, because I am always willing to accept and try out new ideas and I did have this dead spot right in front of the drivebay cage. I ran tests with both the 212+ and the 920 with the addtl fan both on and off but there was no difference in temps.

All my tests were overclocked, so another factor _may_ be as simpe as diminishing returns at higher clocks and voltages. ie, that both air and water coolers begin to perform similar when processing high heat. Just an idea, not saying that is the case.

Performance of the 920 aside - there may be something else I haven't considered yet that is contributing to my high load temps. This could be some setting in BIOS I haven't learned yet (like, I am just beginning to grasp Offset so I run at a fixed voltage, and a few other things) or I could simply have a low performing chip (aka a candidate for de-lidding).


----------



## dioxholster

Anyone experience loud hard drive noise or sharp clicking or grinding sounds from pump when they first started it? my new 620 is annoyingly loud and not silent at all. I posted a thread about it here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1366354/pump-making-loud-hard-drive-noise

the question is should i return it or will it be fixed on its own with use? so far its been on for 2 hours or more.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> Anyone experience loud hard drive noise or sharp clicking or grinding sounds from pump when they first started it? my new 620 is annoyingly loud and not silent at all. I posted a thread about it here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1366354/pump-making-loud-hard-drive-noise
> 
> the question is should i return it or will it be fixed on its own with use? so far its been on for 2 hours or more.


if you check the OP - I mention it it usually is because it is "dry" - it shouldn't be making noise.
If it continues after shaking it - return it.

In other news - my Antec installation guide is super sexy!
It is a staggering 40mins long so far. Will add another 5-10mins to it for the temp comparisons and pictures!
Covers everything and anything you need to know about the antec and more so I feel it is the only guide that will be out there, that literally covers everything and skips nothing.
I think y'all will love it.


----------



## 8bitG33k

So is that one of the newer revisions you got there TD?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> So is that one of the newer revisions you got there TD?


No man - that's the same version I had before - the same one that was hitting 90c (before de-lidding) and 80c (after de-lidding)

The difference is that I'm on STOCK atm whereas before I was at 4.5ghz.

But what I cared about was the difference of the intel cooler vs antec one - and the difference IS SUBSTANTIAL - before I RMA'ed it, the difference was minimal on stock...no idea what changed. (Mounted the same way)


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No man - that's the same version I had before - the same one that was hitting 90c (before de-lidding) and 80c (after de-lidding)
> 
> The difference is that I'm on STOCK atm whereas before I was at 4.5ghz.
> 
> But what I cared about was the difference of the intel cooler vs antec one - and the difference IS SUBSTANTIAL - before I RMA'ed it, the difference was minimal on stock...no idea what changed. (Mounted the same way)


Do you fold for stress testing or do you use p95? ie, have you been using identical load conditions when testing your temps? I wonder what the reason is for the replacement to perform better suddenly - other than the obvious conclusion that the previous unit was bad.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Do you fold for stress testing or do you use p95? ie, have you been using identical load conditions when testing your temps? I wonder what the reason is for the replacement to perform better suddenly - other than the obvious conclusion that the previous unit was bad.


Well for the stock intel cooler I was folding.
And thus for the antec I folded too.

Just inc ase to eliminat WU things - I went ahead and ran IBT.

Basically long story short:
Antec 920 = 58c max temp
Stock intel cooler = 82c max temp
*Temperature difference = 24c* on full load tested via IBT and/or folding (max temperature taken)

-Antec 920 was setup as push pull - air was coming from OUTSIDE the case inwards.
-i7 is de-lidded, but that still doesn't excuse the DIFFERENCE of temperatures between the stock cooler and the antec
-i7 is running on STOCK voltages and clocks - nothing is touched apart from the ram timings and speed (to the rated SPD ones)

Video is rendering now.
I'll exchange the antec fans for the SP120's and report temperatures after too.

Once I can note the difference both sound wise and/or speed wise - I'll come to my conclusion.
I should say my antec hasn't ran anything above 800RPM fan speed.
Due to it being de-lidded it hasn't even needed to be ramped up at any point. Thus it still being super quiet (although I can hear a little winding/bearing noise)


----------



## Callumpy

Ive got hold of an Intel stock cooler while I wait for my 620 to be sorted out.

I HATE IT! My idle temps are similar to my max temps when i've got the Antec on!


----------



## DjBodya

Hey guys so I was switching my stock Antec fans today on my 920 and noticed this

I'm guessing these are not normal? So the question is will it effect performance?


----------



## Weshhh

Well when i bought my 920 i also had this problem but i just bended everything back. I had no need in getting it replaced or something like that because it just takes to long for me.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Hey guys so I was switching my stock Antec fans today on my 920 and noticed this
> 
> I'm guessing these are not normal? So the question is will it effect performance?


Not normal, no. But it doesn't look bad enough to seriously affect temps, at least not by much. What are your load temps?


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Not normal, no. But it doesn't look bad enough to seriously affect temps, at least not by much. What are your load temps?


----
On idle I manage to get 49-50C. on prime95 I think the peak I hit was 64-65.. Haven't OC'ed my Q6700 yet tho. I dont wanna loose a single degree right now, cuz these Q6700 bastards are hot as is.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> ----
> On idle I manage to get 49-50C. on prime95 I think the peak I hit was 64-65.. Haven't OC'ed my Q6700 yet tho. I dont wanna loose a single degree right now, cuz these Q6700 bastards are hot as is.


I'd email Antec and see what they have to say. If you want to err on the side of caution, your best option is to RMA it. No one will be able to say with any certainty exactly how much of a hit you're taking with those bent fins, only give you an approximation. My take is that your temps could take a hit anywhere from none to ~2c.

EDIT: Those fins are the 'air' fins, no the part where water flows through. If waterflow was impaired it would be a different story in terms of how much of a hit you'd be taking.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

*UPDATE: Created a full-length video guide:*




Enjoy!


----------



## 8bitG33k

@DjBodya

On 2nd thought RMA it, in case any parts where water flows through are damaged. There may be evaporation or even leakage taking place. Even the tiniest hole not visible to the naked eye would mean water is getting out, even if it is not big enough to accumulate and drip causing water damage to your PC, it would still evaporate causing loss of liquid over time.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

After 30mins of folding the Sp120's run a LITTLE cooler than my stock antecs - and the noise levels are about the same.
However the liquid temperature seems to be better (which would explain the static pressure of the SP's)

I'll do some more/longer tests tomorrow


----------



## Maximization

good vid
rep'ed


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> good vid
> rep'ed


thanks for the rep lads!


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> @DjBodya
> 
> On 2nd thought RMA it, in case any parts where water flows through are damaged. There may be evaporation or even leakage taking place. Even the tiniest hole not visible to the naked eye would mean water is getting out, even if it is not big enough to accumulate and drip causing water damage to your PC, it would still evaporate causing loss of liquid over time.


I bought mine 920 off Amazon So i think Ill go that route and get it replaced. I know Antec Sometimes takes way too long.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> After 30mins of folding the Sp120's run a LITTLE cooler than my stock antecs - and the noise levels are about the same.
> However the liquid temperature seems to be better (which would explain the static pressure of the SP's)
> 
> I'll do some more/longer tests tomorrow


My gamble of the CM Excalibur has failed..... I think Imma order some GT ap-45s and this little thing, http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/pci.html, to let me PWM them. Maybe even that way I can still keep using ChillControl. You guys think that will work?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I bought mine 920 off Amazon So i think Ill go that route and get it replaced. I know Antec Sometimes takes way too long.
> My gamble of the CM Excalibur has failed..... I think Imma order some GT ap-45s and this little thing, http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/pci.html, to let me PWM them. Maybe even that way I can still keep using ChillControl. You guys think that will work?


If your fans are PWM then I would think so


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If your fans are PWM then I would think so


Well it says it makes 3-pin fans a PWM. Hmmm I'll just grab the Sunbeam Controller and see if it will. It will be real cool if it does as I hate to leave the full fan controll to my mobo, plus I dont think I have enough 3-pin connectors on my mobo left anyhow.


----------



## M3TAl

Sunbeam products in general scare me. They can be hit or miss. Hopefully it works as it should.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Why does your motherboard not allow control of your fans? I'm intrigued as my mum's gigabyte board seems to be in the same boat


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Why does your motherboard not allow control of your fans? I'm intrigued as my mum's gigabyte board seems to be in the same boat


That seems to be the same board that I have (minus the "U").

All fans on this board can be controlled via the BIOS _but_ only the header labeled CPU_Fan operates off the CPU temperature. All other Sys_Fan headers operate off the motherboard temperature which will probably not vary a lot, so you wont see much difference in fan speeds of fans connected to those headers.

EDIT: If you set the System Fans in the BIOS to "Disabled" they will run at full speed.


----------



## mysticpete

Hi All

Concerning the RPM reporting of the pump on the Antec 620, Can someone please confirm if the RPM (of the pump) is being reported via their CPU_FAN header, on my Gigabyte mobo it has stopped showing up and dispalys 0 only, when I first fitted it it was posting an RPM.

I have disabled All fan control in Bios and I am using SpeedFan to control the 3 other case fans. I don't want to change the pump speed but I want to ensure that it is actually working at full throttle, the Antec stock fan is always at full but again there is no reading as it is controlled by the pump circuit.

Any thoughts.

Thanks in advance
mystic


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mysticpete*
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Concerning the RPM reporting of the pump on the Antec 620, Can someone please confirm if the RPM (of the pump) is being reported via their CPU_FAN header, on my Gigabyte mobo it has stopped showing up and dispalys 0 only, when I first fitted it it was posting an RPM.
> 
> I have disabled All fan control in Bios and I am using SpeedFan to control the 3 other case fans. I don't want to change the pump speed but I want to ensure that it is actually working at full throttle, the Antec stock fan is always at full but again there is no reading as it is controlled by the pump circuit.
> 
> Any thoughts.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> mystic


Aida64 reports the pump speed for my 920. But I'm pretty sure that's because the 920 has a USB header which connects to the motherboard and the pump speed is reported via this route. Give it a try though.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> That seems to be the same board that I have (minus the "U").
> 
> All fans on this board can be controlled via the BIOS _but_ only the header labeled CPU_Fan operates off the CPU temperature. All other Sys_Fan headers operate off the motherboard temperature which will probably not vary a lot, so you wont see much difference in fan speeds of fans connected to those headers.
> 
> EDIT: If you set the System Fans in the BIOS to "Disabled" they will run at full speed.


Yup only the CPU header Operates off the CPU temp and thats usually just the one 4-pin connector. The other sensors are not as accurate when it comes to CPU temps. Thats why im hoping this sunbeam PCI controller works


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Yup only the CPU header Operates off the CPU temp and thats usually just the one 4-pin connector. The other sensors are not as accurate when it comes to CPU temps. Thats why im hoping this sunbeam PCI controller works


The GA-Z77X boards Fan Headers are all 4-pin and can be configured to operate either by voltage or PWM.
The reason the other sensors are not as accurate when it comes to CPU temps is because they are driven by a different temperature.The Sys_Fan headers operate off the System/ Motherboard Temperature. The header labeled 'CPU' operates off the CPU Temp. (source)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

15hrs of folding - Antec 920 push/pill air going INTO the case -with 2x SP120's max temp: 53c -> max temp for antec fans was 58c
But you know that's not the thing that impresses me - the LIQUID TEMPERATURE is only at 33c - where as the stock antec fans gave me close to 40c liquid temps

Long story short - my SP120's in QUIET are not only quieter (on load) but also so much better for overall temperatures.

Hope this info helps!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *mysticpete*
> 
> Hi All
> 
> Concerning the RPM reporting of the pump on the Antec 620, Can someone please confirm if the RPM (of the pump) is being reported via their CPU_FAN header, on my Gigabyte mobo it has stopped showing up and dispalys 0 only, when I first fitted it it was posting an RPM.
> 
> I have disabled All fan control in Bios and I am using SpeedFan to control the 3 other case fans. I don't want to change the pump speed but I want to ensure that it is actually working at full throttle, the Antec stock fan is always at full but again there is no reading as it is controlled by the pump circuit.
> 
> Any thoughts.
> 
> Thanks in advance
> mystic


Well if your pump wasn't actually running then water wouldn't be moving. If water isn't moving then your cpu temps would be VERY HIGH. What are your temps like? Do you feel any vibration if you touch the block?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 15hrs of folding - Antec 920 push/pill air going INTO the case -with 2x SP120's max temp: 53c -> max temp for antec fans was 58c
> But you know that's not the thing that impresses me - the LIQUID TEMPERATURE is only at 33c - where as the stock antec fans gave me close to 40c liquid temps
> 
> Long story short - my SP120's in QUIET are not only quieter (on load) but also so much better for overall temperatures.
> 
> Hope this info helps!


Good info! And this is at stock clocks, correct? I wonder why I didn't have the same results with the Corsairs keeping the liquid temp lower. Just that my idle liquid and CPU temps are now lower with the new unit.

At some point I'll probably mount this in my drive bay and see how that changes things, for the next few weeks I'm done fiddling with the 920 though.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> The GA-Z77X boards Fan Headers are all 4-pin and can be configured to operate either by voltage or PWM.
> The reason the other sensors are not as accurate when it comes to CPU temps is because they are driven by a different temperature.The Sys_Fan headers operate off the System/ Motherboard Temperature. The header labeled 'CPU' operates off the CPU Temp. (source)


I have a different board and it only has one PWM header.
Got my replacement 920 on the way. Now just to order a bunch of different fans and test it all out when it comes. Hopefully I can shave off a degree or maybe even2


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I have a different board and it only has one PWM header.
> Got my replacement 920 on the way. Now just to order a bunch of different fans and test it all out when it comes. Hopefully I can shave off a degree or maybe even2


I was referring to the GA-Z77 line, the same line of boards TD mentions in regards to his mother, the one he has in his sig.

Sorry for the confusion.

And keep us updated with the new unit and different fanconfigs!


----------



## dioxholster

watched totally dub's video, said that shaking and 5 min should end the bubbles, hasnt for me, RMA then? actually i plan to return it to retail store, what should i tell them i fear they may not understand the problem.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> watched totally dub's video, said that shaking and 5 min should end the bubbles, hasnt for me, RMA then? actually i plan to return it to retail store, what should i tell them i fear they may not understand the problem.


Are you in the US? If so I don't think you need to tell them anything other than that you want to return it. If you want to give them a reason just say the pump is noisy. As long as you still have the receipt and you're within 30 days you're good to go. If not you're gonna have to go through Antec's warranty.

I had a similar noise with my previous unit, pretty sure it was air-bubbles. I RMA'ed it (for a different reason though) and I haven't heard anything similar from the new unit.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> watched totally dub's video, said that shaking and 5 min should end the bubbles, hasnt for me, RMA then? actually i plan to return it to retail store, what should i tell them i fear they may not understand the problem.


If they don't understand the pump is loud have them run the pump in the store. Then show them the video of how a 620 pump should sound in my sig for reference.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

You just tell them the unit is faulty and that you want an exchange or refund.


----------



## M3TAl

Got the Swiftech Helix's in, expect some kind of video with audio comparison between Helix and Cougar Vortex in the next week or so.

Will also test on 620 with single fan in Push. Probably 20min of Prime95 Blend. Although I have no way to measure room ambient, there are multiple thermal sensors from my fan controller in the case. One of them on the side of 5.25" bays where cable management goes on... I use this as my case ambient temp.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nice let us know how it goes.
but don't go suing anyone


----------



## M3TAl

Ahaha, typos.


----------



## DjBodya

I just got my GT AP-45 2150RPM and decided to turn then on to just see how loud they get. There's like no noise coming out of them O.O. Wow, now I'm skeptical if they are running at 2150 RPM XD

Edit: Installed fans on the radiator, checked speed, running at full barely any noise. I do get a whine if I try pulling air out of from the outside, but that will be my honeycomb grill. Even with the whine fans at full speed are still more quiet.
Hmmm might cut off the grill depending on the results if I'll be pulling air from the outside.
Idle temps seem to be the same as stock Antec fans, 49-50C. Prime95 temps are at 58C(highest), 55C(avg) after 10 mins of running, if I remember it correctly its a 5-6C drop from stock fans.
greatly Impressed as of now O.O


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha nice one!


----------



## DjBodya

So my idle temps yesterday night raised to 50-51C last night and wouldn't go down. Liquid temp was up to 34.2C and wouldn't go down either. Which I dong get, all I was doing last night is working with excel. Unless the temperate inside was raised due to the higher RPM rad fans.
Finally got my 230mm replacement from Antec. Now I can test out having the 230mm blowing into the case and having the fans on the rad to take air from the inside of the case.


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I just got my GT AP-45 ....


Wow! GT45 Turbos


----------



## dioxholster

im running i5 3750 with antec 620 and on idle now on real temp its around 35c, is this normal? my i7 920 I think used to be around 50 something.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Antec Intel replacement kit arrived today - thanks Antec!


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> im running i5 3750 with antec 620 and on idle now on real temp its around 35c, is this normal? my i7 920 I think used to be around 50 something.


its hard to say whats normal in general with these units - i only have experince with the i7 and the 920 - first time i installed the 920 - i dont think it was installed properly and i got bad temps - etc, but also it was with an AMD A8

now i am with intel i7 and i feel it was installed much better this time around

as for my temps - my room is pretty warm - maybe much more than most - so thats the first factor - then its the Volts you are running - speed etc, your fans -

i ended up with a 4.7 stable at 1.35V - my temps on Real Temp show 35C at the lowest and goes up and down a bit - one core goes up to 42C

but i dont worry too much anymore - its fine - and at least for me just using my comp. Nero. DVD Fab - etc, is fine on load also - it hits the 80C mostly but rarely use these problems for long periods

now i just upped it to 1.45v - at 4.9 - i didnt stress test and most likely wont - dont feel like running it for 12 hours - i just use it as i do normally and seems fine - now my Real Temps are closer to 45C at ideal etc, and do hit 86C when using my programs etc,

i did test it at 4.7 - i am stable and fine there - -

i figure - whats the big deal - it can handle it - i did purchase the insurance so worst case - i get it replaced - but honestly i think i may replace long before it would need it anyway

enjoy the speed - watch the temps but dont get too worried if you dont get 25C like many may or may not get -


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> im running i5 3750 with antec 620 and on idle now on real temp its around 35c, is this normal? my i7 920 I think used to be around 50 something.


its hard to say whats normal in general with these units - i only have experince with the i7 and the 920 - first time i installed the 920 - i dont think it was installed properly and i got bad temps - etc, but also it was with an AMD A8

now i am with intel i7 and i feel it was installed much better this time around

as for my temps - my room is pretty warm - maybe much more than most - so thats the first factor - then its the Volts you are running - speed etc, your fans -

i ended up with a 4.7 stable at 1.35V - my temps on Real Temp show 35C at the lowest and goes up and down a bit - one core goes up to 42C

but i dont worry too much anymore - its fine - and at least for me just using my comp. Nero. DVD Fab - etc, is fine on load also - it hits the 80C mostly but rarely use these problems for long periods

now i just upped it to 1.45v - at 4.9 - i didnt stress test and most likely wont - dont feel like running it for 12 hours - i just use it as i do normally and seems fine - now my Real Temps are closer to 45C at ideal etc, and do hit 86C when using my programs etc,

i did test it at 4.7 - i am stable and fine there - -

i figure - whats the big deal - it can handle it - i did purchase the insurance so worst case - i get it replaced - but honestly i think i may replace long before it would need it anyway

enjoy the speed - watch the temps but dont get too worried if you dont get 25C like many may or may not get -


----------



## expresso

sorry about all those posts - dont know if i hit the enter too many times or something is wrong -

here are my idle temps with the i7 and 920 cooler


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Antec Intel replacement kit arrived today - thanks Antec!


I'm still waiting for mine, I got an email the other day asking if I needed the Intel parts... even though I did ask for those in my original email.

Its taking them so long, i'm getting quite sick of waiting, ill probably end up just trying to get the cooler on with my broken back-plate.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I'm still waiting for mine, I got an email the other day asking if I needed the Intel parts... even though I did ask for those in my original email.
> 
> Its taking them so long, i'm getting quite sick of waiting, ill probably end up just trying to get the cooler on with my broken back-plate.


yeah after that email, then they will post it out to you - just ask for a follow up


----------



## DjBodya

Hmm I gotta say that the Antec 920 Fans seem to be very solid fans, except for the noise issue.


----------



## DjBodya

So I just got Rheosmart PCI Fan Controller, connected it and like magic mine 3-pin fans became PWM fans and everything seems to be working very well, NICE!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> So I just got Rheosmart PCI Fan Controller, connected it and like magic mine 3-pin fans became PWM fans and everything seems to be working very well, NICE!!


Glad to hear it !








I'm tempted to not put any adhesive strip[s on my new antec backplate. More so the temps are good so far (de-lidded) that I don't even want to touch my PC anymore haha


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Glad to hear it !
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm tempted to not put any adhesive strip[s on my new antec backplate. More so the temps are good so far (de-lidded) that I don't even want to touch my PC anymore haha


I have to replace My 920 tomorrow, and you just reminded me I put adhesive strips on...
So did u just put the back plate without anything on it just plastic touching the mobo?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I have to replace My 920 tomorrow, and you just reminded me I put adhesive strips on...
> So did u just put the back plate without anything on it just plastic touching the mobo?


I just left the remaining residue of the adhesive strips on it, and put the plastic on.


----------



## M3TAl

Mine doesn't use the strips either. The strips are still stuck to my old mobo. They refused to come off. Felt like I was about to rip the mobo half trying to remove them.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Mine doesn't use the strips either. The strips are still stuck to my old mobo. They refused to come off. Felt like I was about to rip the mobo half trying to remove them.


It can be easily removed with patience and nails (lol)
If you slowly try ripping it and scratching at it, you'll be able to remove the adhesive strips.
For complete removal (like I did) use white spirit on a cloth and wiping your motherboard with it - then you'll be left with no residue on your motherboard.


----------



## M3TAl

Oh, I've got nails. What's white spirit? I tried the old hair dryer trick to heat them up. All that did was help me rip the backplate from the strips. Strips stayed behind.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Oh, I've got nails. What's white spirit? I tried the old hair dryer trick to heat them up. All that did was help me rip the backplate from the strips. Strips stayed behind.


White spirit:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit

As for the nails and heat thing - man it should normally come off lol - mind taking a pic of it when you have time - I'm intrigued lol


----------



## M3TAl

Well my old motherboard is just sitting in the box. But I screwed the original backplate over the strips lmao, I just said screw it, not going to be using it


----------



## M3TAl

Haha wow. So the box was already sitting right here and so is a screw *driver* so I took the mounting bracket off. The original backplate is glued to the strips now







. If I can get it off I'll show you a pic.

Doesn't want to come off.



Got it off, sort of...


----------



## WarDad

Be careful using any solvent you don't want it on the wrong places.
Try using Q-tip or artist brush. Get it on the tape and let it soak in.
Finger nail polish remover is acetone and usually comes with an applicator.
Common rubbing alcohol will work. Be prepared to mop it up, some of the stuff is 30% water.

Yea, of course the obligatory warnings: don't smoke, no sparks, psu off, etc...


----------



## Maximization

With those adhesives they use that industrial application and remove it with stuff like this

http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70207269

I am wondering just using masking trope to hold the plate in place until screwed down would work


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> With those adhesives they use that industrial application and remove it with stuff like this
> 
> http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70207269
> 
> I am wondering just using masking trope to hold the plate in place until screwed down would work


Yeah - but you won't even need that - just the fact that when you put the bolts in - it holds it in place (and then when installing it) make sure your hand is behind, and you screw with you hand the ones - see my instruction video for more info


----------



## DjBodya

Hey TB I remember you saying that that Sp120s perform better than the Antec stock fans, whats the difference in noise?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Hey TB I remember you saying that that Sp120s perform better than the Antec stock fans, whats the difference in noise?


Noise at LOW LOAD is identical.
Noise at HIGH LOAD is very much a big difference.
If both run at 1500RPM (which the antec goes to 2k rpm on load sometimes) the noise difference is quite substantial.

Now it depends, if you are a heavy PC user (and like me Fold) then you'll notice a difference, however if you are just gaming every now and then, I don't see the point in buying new fans as you will rarely go past the 65c mark on your CPU, let alone need full ramp speed on the antecs.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Noise at LOW LOAD is identical.
> Noise at HIGH LOAD is very much a big difference.
> If both run at 1500RPM (which the antec goes to 2k rpm on load sometimes) the noise difference is quite substantial.
> 
> Now it depends, if you are a heavy PC user (and like me Fold) then you'll notice a difference, however if you are just gaming every now and then, I don't see the point in buying new fans as you will rarely go past the 65c mark on your CPU, let alone need full ramp speed on the antecs.


Antec Fans are too loud for me. Plus im already at 52C and I havent Oc'd my system. The Ap-45s I got seem to be on pair with the Antec fans, or maybe a bit lower. I'm just testing out a couple of fans to see whats good, was thinking of hitting the Ap120s next. I'll just give them a shot and see.
Gotta cut off my fan grill in the back that stupid whine noise is starting to piss me off now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Antec Fans are too loud for me. Plus im already at 52C and I havent Oc'd my system. The Ap-45s I got seem to be on pair with the Antec fans, or maybe a bit lower. I'm just testing out a couple of fans to see whats good, was thinking of hitting the Ap120s next. I'll just give them a shot and see.
> Gotta cut off my fan grill in the back that stupid whine noise is starting to piss me off now.


haha that fan noise - I had that too with my Fractal R4 - at the top. It depends on the fans.
The fractal fans ironically made this huge noise when they were screwed into my top grill. However the AF140's made no noise.
I won't be buying another Fractal case to be honest. Two cases I bought now have fan noise problems and/or HDD vibration problems. Of course I solved them both (ie my mum's fractal case I got rid of the screws and buffered the vertical HDD mount with a cable tie - with my PC I loosened the top AF140 to be literally hanging from the top, in order for it not to over emphasise the vibration coming form the HDD tray).

Right now - I'm at 65c, folding with 100% GPU and CPU usage. I can't even hear my PC - I love it (it sits 30cm behind my back) - only when I mute, not type etc can I hear the system running (lol)


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha that fan noise - I had that too with my Fractal R4 - at the top. It depends on the fans.
> The fractal fans ironically made this huge noise when they were screwed into my top grill. However the AF140's made no noise.
> I won't be buying another Fractal case to be honest. Two cases I bought now have fan noise problems and/or HDD vibration problems. Of course I solved them both (ie my mum's fractal case I got rid of the screws and buffered the vertical HDD mount with a cable tie - with my PC I loosened the top AF140 to be literally hanging from the top, in order for it not to over emphasise the vibration coming form the HDD tray).
> 
> Right now - I'm at 65c, folding with 100% GPU and CPU usage. I can't even hear my PC - I love it (it sits 30cm behind my back) - only when I mute, not type etc can I hear the system running (lol)


I only get that whine noise when I'm drawing air from the back. Otherwise everything is fine. Last time I checked I got 66C with IBT, I'll get even more than that for sure when I'll be trying to OC my system a bit. My liquid temps rose today by over a degree today O.O. It is a rather warm day but I never realized it was that cold in my house.
Oh so you have the AF120s?
My system is a bit loud I suppose, but this loudness doesn't bother me at all.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I got the sp120 on the rad and the af140 for my case


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I got the sp120 on the rad and the af140 for my case


Ahhh gotchya. I ordered the Sp120 will see how they do in a couple of days.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

The quiet or performance version? I got the quiet one


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The quiet or performance version? I got the quiet one


Both XD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Both XD


hahaha let me know how it goes.
Most people say the performance is OTT -as you won't need to run at max RPM - thus the quiet edition, is quieter, and better for average users (like myself).

Heavy user - I would say is a person making big video edits day in day out.
That said...they should all de-lid


----------



## Callumpy

I got my new back plate. It arrived sometime this morning while I was out, and just a few minutes ago my dad decided to remember it and tell me it had been delivered.

I've already got the cooler back on my CPU anyway and i'm back to my normal temps, finally! I did a 10 minute prime run with no overclock and never went above 49C.

I missed my cooler so much, thank you very much Antec for the replacement, it may have taken ages to get here but its all good now.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hahaha let me know how it goes.
> Most people say the performance is OTT -as you won't need to run at max RPM - thus the quiet edition, is quieter, and better for average users (like myself).
> 
> Heavy user - I would say is a person making big video edits day in day out.
> That said...they should all de-lid


If the high performance edition sound the right way I'll take them. I always like to do a bit overkill even if I dont need it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> I got my new back plate. It arrived sometime this morning while I was out, and just a few minutes ago my dad decided to remember it and tell me it had been delivered.
> 
> I've already got the cooler back on my CPU anyway and i'm back to my normal temps, finally! I did a 10 minute prime run with no overclock and never went above 49C.
> 
> I missed my cooler so much, thank you very much Antec for the replacement, it may have taken ages to get here but its all good now.


glad to hear it mate!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> If the high performance edition sound the right way I'll take them. I always like to do a bit overkill even if I dont need it.


lol fair play


----------



## unknown601

Thanks i did some more research and found out from AMD that the "core temp" is the one rated at 62C http://www.overclock.net/t/1095360/straight-from-amd-the-correct-temp-to-read-for-your-processor/0_20.

I have me rad with the pipes up so air bobbles don't get stuck in the rad and slow the water flow.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> If the high performance edition sound the right way I'll take them. I always like to do a bit overkill even if I dont need it.


Same here









I installed them today (we're talking Corsair Sp120 High Performance, right??) and am now using a 3pin Y-splitter to connect the to my CPU Header. The pump is hooked up to one of the System Headers now.

I have to say I am much happier with the fans being controlled by the motherboard now. Which means the fan speeds react to the CPU temp now, rather than the liquid temp. I haven'd done much testing yet. One thing I noticed though is that the liquid temp is lower than before. I assume this is because now the fans speed up sooner and dont have to wait for the liquid to warm up first.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Same here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I installed them today (we're talking Corsair Sp120 High Performance, right??) and am now using a 3pin Y-splitter to connect the to my CPU Header. The pump is hooked up to one of the System Headers now.
> 
> I have to say I am much happier with the fans being controlled by the motherboard now. Which means the fan speeds react to the CPU temp now, rather than the liquid temp. I haven'd done much testing yet. One thing I noticed though is that the liquid temp is lower than before. I assume this is because now the fans speed up sooner and dont have to wait for the liquid to warm up first.


Yes the SP120 High Performance


----------



## 8bitG33k

Ok, I just played Crysis 3 and the SP120's are WAY more quiet. Of course that's not a %100 load as under Prime95 but so far I'm happy.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Ok, I just played Crysis 3 and the SP120's are WAY more quiet. Of course that's not a %100 load as under Prime95 but so far I'm happy.


Glad you are liking them so far bro


----------



## 8bitG33k

Well, I've been using them all this time... just that I had them plugged into the 920 unit. What's changed is that I hooked them up to the board's CPU fan header via a 3pin y-cable splitter.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Well, I've been using them all this time... just that I had them plugged into the 920 unit. What's changed is that I hooked them up to the board's CPU fan header via a 3pin y-cable splitter.


Well both really depends on the CPU temperature (as liquid temperature is reflected by the heat of your CPU too) Unless you set it up drastically wrong on your antec (which i doubt) then, I can only see that as an improvement!


----------



## 8bitG33k

The difference is that it takes longer for the fans to react when controlled by Chill Control. Hooking them up to the motherboard they spin up the second the CPU temp increases. That means there is no delay between rise in CPU temp and fan speed ramp up. It takes some time for the liquid to heat up from the CPU. When controlled by Chill Control, that causes the fans to ramp up after the CPU temp has already peaked. The CPU has to heat up the liquid first for Chill Control to detect a rise in liquid temps and to then ramp up the fans. That takes time, and even a few seconds can make a big difference when we are talking about loads and temperatures.

I tested this theory when I just kept the stock Antec fans running at full speed the entire time during one test, and indeed my CPU temp only hit 84 instead of the previous 89. Of course, no one is going to want to set Chill Control to run the fans at full speed the whole time.

According to this theory, hooking up the fans to the motherboard should result in a lower max CPU temp - and indeed, that was the case after I got my Y-Splitter today. Since the fans ramp up quicker, the liquid is cooler (relatively of course), which means the max peak temp was lower.


----------



## 8bitG33k

From my review:
Quote:


> I used two different custom settings in Chill Control,1. Fan Ramp Start Temp 30/ Full Speed Fan Temp 35 and 2. Fan Ramp Start Temp 40/ Full Speed Fan Temp 50 (which is the default setting). The temperature hit 89c using either setting.


Running the fans constantly at %100 instead of letting Chill Control ramp the fans up and down, resulted in a max temp of 84.

So hooking up the fans to my motherboard doesn't result in better temperatures, but it results in better noise level at the same temperatures.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Sorry if I am not making this very clear - I know what I'm trying to say but I'm very tired today.

Let me try one more time:

It takes a while for the CPU to raise the liquid temp.

That means there is a delay of at least a few seconds before Chill Control ramps up the fans.

When the motherboard controls the fan speed, the fans ramp up pretty much instantly meaning the liquid cools down sooner which in turn causes the CPU temp to not rise as high in the first place. In my case, 5c.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Completely agree -well said









EDIT:
Here are my noise levels of my system - random, but might be interesting for some:


----------



## azasadny

I have the Intel branded Asetek cooler on my DZ77GA-70K motherboard and i7-3770k setup. I am installing the Corsair branded H60 on my son's PC this weekend and I installed the Antec 620 on a friend's PC last weekend. In the last 2 months, I've installed 4 of these units and I love them!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nice one







!


----------



## noobdown

Any one try or hear of some one replacing the 120mm rad with a 220? if so the temp results?


----------



## DjBodya

So I have mounted my replacement 920 that I got like couple days ago and my temps are up like 1-2C but my liquid temps are down. I've have remounted three times already...... unless I suck at mounting today. gahhh ***......


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Try checking my video. Doubt you're doing it wrong but you never know.
Also try inverting the direction of the fans to intake air from outside. Make sure you got an exhaust fan


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Try checking my video. Doubt you're doing it wrong but you never know.
> Also try inverting the direction of the fans to intake air from outside. Make sure you got an exhaust fan


Got the same set-up as before fans blowing into the case. I sticked the stupid sticky slips on the backplate now. and i dunno if that did it but I got better results. o.o Almost there. ill try to dump a bit more paste. Maybe thats whats I'm messing up today.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Any one try or hear of some one replacing the 120mm rad with a 220? if so the temp results?


There has been people who added more rads with the 120. Just a 240 rad would most likely get similar performance to the original H100.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *noobdown*
> 
> Any one try or hear of some one replacing the 120mm rad with a 220? if so the temp results?


I had a 360 hooked up to my 2 Kuhler 620s and H80 all in series. Some numbers and a small spreadheet can be found in my build log


----------



## DjBodya

So I remounted one last time and everything seems to be like its suppose to. Now after that is done I have finally cut off my grill in the back. The whine noise seems to be gone. I think my case finally sounds like it was before i put in the 920 in it. Maybe a bit different due to the different noise produced by the fans on the rad. Now to run a quick IBT to see if removing the grill helped at all O.O


----------



## The Architect

Hi I have a question! I got my 620 a few months ago and put it in my closet. Now I got a new build off the market place and I am putting it in. The build is an ASUS mobo, a Phenom II 965 be, with 4GB ram @1600. I havent overclocked anything at all, and am using the thermal paste that came on the block of the pump. I have been just idling in BIOS watching my temps, and after a few minutes Im up to 95F. The only sound Im hearing is from the fan on the back. I have tried shaking it. Also, my BIOS is giving me a warning that OC'ing failed due to my CPU fan not spinning. I figured this is due to the fact its a pump, so I disabled monitoring on the CPU fan RPM. Do I have a faulty product? Any help would be appreciated.


----------



## stickg1

95F is 35C which is normal. Is the pump plugged in to the CPU_FAN header?


----------



## The Architect

It is. So this is a normal temp? Everyone talks about being happy with 60. Are the meaning 60C?


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Architect*
> 
> It is. So this is a normal temp? Everyone talks about being happy with 60. Are the meaning 60C?


Yea when people are talking about temps, they mean in Celsius.


----------



## The Architect

Well I'm feeling silly now. So if I let my BIOS idle for 10 minutes, and Im still at 95F, I'm good?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

For the bios part: you have to disable fan warnings and speed warnings for the cpu fan header.
Please ensure your pump is plugged into the fan header, the fan splitter is connected to the two fans and the usb cable is plugged into the motherboard. You should be then good to rumble. We also denote temperatures by celcius


----------



## stickg1

the 620 doesn't have USB.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> the 620 doesn't have USB.


oh yeah forgot he had the 620 -cheers rooneeeeeeeeeeeey


----------



## The Architect

Everything is connected as such. Thanks for the help guys. Since it is all new components I wasn't sure what type of temps to be looking for.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *The Architect*
> 
> Everything is connected as such. Thanks for the help guys. Since it is all new components I wasn't sure what type of temps to be looking for.


Ok cool beans - enjoy the build


----------



## M3TAl

95F is perfectly normal for a stock x4 965. If you plan to stay stock you can most likely lower the voltage. A lot of boards put 1.4v stock which is more than needed for 3.4ghz.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 95F is perfectly normal for a stock x4 965. If you plan to stay stock you can most likely lower the voltage. A lot of boards put 1.4v stock which is more than needed for 3.4ghz.


3.4 can run at under 1v lol


----------



## DjBodya

Got mine Corsair fans in today. SP120 Area like dead silent to me, alot of ppl called them loud O.O
Anyways they seem to work great bu I cant push them past 2150 RPM


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 3.4 can run at under 1v lol


An Ivy bridge maybe, a Phenom II X4 965 (the chip they're talking about) can't. Unless you have a really special chip. C'mon TD!!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Got mine Corsair fans in today. SP120 Area like dead silent to me, alot of ppl called them loud O.O
> Anyways they seem to work great bu I cant push them past 2150 RPM


They have a max RPM - but same here. I can't push my quiet editions more than 1.2k RPM via the bios.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> An Ivy bridge maybe, a Phenom II X4 965 (the chip they're talking about) can't. Unless you have a really special chip. C'mon TD!!!


very true


----------



## stickg1

TD, *** is up with our boys? They play the same type of football no matter who they're playing. Just trying to smash with counter-attacks. When it's 2-0 in the 2nd half, for fk sakes, pass the ball around the back line, let your guys get up the field, complete some passes, quit playing like a bunch of a-holes...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> TD, *** is up with our boys? They play the same type of football no matter who they're playing. Just trying to smash with counter-attacks. When it's 2-0 in the 2nd half, for fk sakes, pass the ball around the back line, let your guys get up the field, complete some passes, quit playing like a bunch of a-holes...


exactly no idea


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> They have a max RPM - but same here. I can't push my quiet editions more than 1.2k RPM via the bios.
> very true


But i wanted to hit that 2350 RPM mark and see








haha Arsenal won


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> But i wanted to hit that 2350 RPM mark and see
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> haha Arsenal won


Yeah they did but...
"Bayern Munich win on away goals rule"


----------



## SinatraFan

I love this cooler and its features. Keeps my 3930k nice and cool.


----------



## DjBodya

So I finally decided to overclock my Q6700 to 3.1Ghz. Idle temps are around 58C, which is what I had previously on my air cooling heatsink w/out the OC. Anyways so I was running Prime95 Small FFTs for about 12 hours and then I got "Prime95 has stopped working". I've never heard of this before does this mean my OC is unstable?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yup OC is unstable.


----------



## M3TAl

Give her more voltage captain!!!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Here's an interesting read I dug up while researching my afore mentioned theory about water temperature over CPU temp. The difference between H2O temp and CPU Tempo is called Delta. It confirms what I was saying earlier about having cooler liquid not allowing the CPU temps to get as high in the first place. This sounds like a no brainer, but has a noticeable effect anytime Chill Control is used to control the fans.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Give her more voltage captain!!!


Yup upped the voltage one more nudge. Now 24 hours later of prime95 no errors no nothing and temps are at 71-73 degrees the whole time. Not bad I think I'll just keep it at 3.1Ghz, since my core is like an extra hot one. I mean everywhere I look ppl are getting much lower temps on air... I was hoping to get a stable 3.1-3.2 on 920 with reasonable temps and I gotta say I did







Now to test a game and see how far my temps shoot up there.


----------



## famous1994

Has anyone change the tubes on a 620 yet. Im curious as to how I would go about doing it, as I want to do red or white tubing to match my build.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *famous1994*
> 
> Has anyone change the tubes on a 620 yet. Im curious as to how I would go about doing it, as I want to do red or white tubing to match my build.


Yes I believe someone has made their own loop using the 620 and H80 not so long ago. Try going thru the thread shouldn't be that far back. Or you can check out the images posted in this thread is should be there too.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Yes I believe someone has made their own loop using the 620 and H80 not so long ago. Try going thru the thread shouldn't be that far back. Or you can check out the images posted in this thread is should be there too.


It was me. I have pictures in my build log.

There is a screw between the two barbs. Remove that screw and the barbs pull right out. Slice off the old hose and replace it with some 1/4" ID 3/8" OD hose. I used go cart fuel line.

You'll have to get the air out of your loop though once finished. I just used a reservoir. You'll also have to figure out which barb is supply and return. I can't recall off of the top of my head.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> It was me. I have pictures in my build log.
> 
> There is a screw between the two barbs. Remove that screw and the barbs pull right out. Slice off the old hose and replace it with some 1/4" ID 3/8" OD hose. I used go cart fuel line.
> 
> You'll have to get the air out of your loop though once finished. I just used a reservoir. You'll also have to figure out which barb is supply and return. I can't recall off of the top of my head.


I also have this gents posts linked in the OP -> mods section


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> ...You'll also have to figure out which barb is supply and return. I can't recall off of the top of my head.


I recall the outlet was hotter when bench marking. I don't have the 620s anymore so I can't just say.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Will these hoses work?
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id3odlatu2.html
http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id3odlatu1.html


----------



## Maximization

cool links


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Will these hoses work?
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id3odlatu2.html
> http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/ty1id3odlatu1.html


Look ok to me


----------



## rigburning

Hi,
Would it be possible to use the 620 with Fractal Design Core 1000? It is mATX with 1x120mm fan in the front and the 620 tubing length is 13.0" / 330 mm.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigburning*
> 
> Hi,
> Would it be possible to use the 620 with Fractal Design Core 1000? It is mATX with 1x120mm fan in the front and the 620 tubing length is 13.0" / 330 mm.


It would fit - but I don't know where you would put the rad.
The rad + HDD tray I don't think will fit in the front to be honest.

I have the core 1000, but with a pro freezer - if the fractal core was designed better - then the back 92mm would have been perfect for a 120mm mount + rad
But as they are stupid, and put 92mm - it means you are limited with cooling options.

Long story short:
No, I highly doubt you can make it work, especially with that vertical HDD tray.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Time for the Dremel then...


----------



## rigburning

Yes or the 92->120 mm shroud


----------



## M3TAl

Well finally got a new Helix fan to replace the DOA one and it's working properly, even with my X-vision fan controller (the 2nd working Helix won't read proper 1800rpm). So maybe I can get these fan tests started this weekend... I'll try to do the Helix, Cougar Vortex, and stock 620 fan.


----------



## oswald3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *rigburning*
> 
> Hi,
> Would it be possible to use the 620 with Fractal Design Core 1000? It is mATX with 1x120mm fan in the front and the 620 tubing length is 13.0" / 330 mm.


Yes. I'm using mine 620 in a Core1000. The rad is mounted in the front. Great performance because it sucks in cool air which is later pulled out with the rear 92mm and PSU 120mm fans
Tube lenght is perfect and allows for a non-streched fit.

I'm not using the side mounted hdd panel. Yet I'm using 1x DVD, 2x 3,5 HDD and an SSD. Oh and a ATI4850 tha uses 3 slots.

Regards.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I'm really tempted to replace the black tubing with transparent ones. Thanks for the info for the size!


----------



## 8bitG33k

On 2nd thought, it might be safer to just paint the tubing white. What kind of paint do you suppose would work?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> On 2nd thought, it might be safer to just paint the tubing white. What kind of paint do you suppose would work?


you could always do something like this


----------



## [CyGnus]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> On 2nd thought, it might be safer to just paint the tubing white. What kind of paint do you suppose would work?


Why dont you buy some white tubbing a little bigger (diameter) and do a cut from one end to the other and just place it over the stock Antec one.... Simple as that and no trouble at all


----------



## M3TAl

Just pulled out the stock Antec 620 fan and realized there's no wire for rpm so it won't work with my fan controller. It will only run 12V so I won't be able to compare like rpm's to the Helix and Vortex fans.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Connect it to the motherboard bro? Should be able to compare like that no?

As for the tubing...I'm with you on painting. That would be quite cool to do.


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> On 2nd thought, it might be safer to just paint the tubing white. What kind of paint do you suppose would work?


I wouldnt recommend painting the tubes unless you use a very flexible paint.
Even then it will probably peel off anyway with the heat.

I would do what another said and sleeve them with bigger tubes of a colour u like.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

How hard would it be to refill the unit without adding a res?


----------



## 8bitG33k

I like the idea to just sleeve the tubing but don't think that would work as the tubes make an almost 180 turn due to the layout of my case. The cut tubing would "wrinkle" at the bend I think.



If I do go the paint route, what type of paint do you think can be used on these tubes without being corrosive or anything to the tubes?


----------



## SvenTheBerserK

Parasol RUBBERBOND (Rubber Dye)
http://www.parasolinc.com/Products.asp?ProductID=RUBBERBOND

I found this stuff....but it aint cheap.
About $70 for about 500ml.


----------



## stickg1

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I like the idea to just sleeve the tubing but don't think that would work as the tubes make an almost 180 turn due to the layout of my case. The cut tubing would "wrinkle" at the bend I think.
> 
> 
> 
> If I do go the paint route, what type of paint do you think can be used on these tubes without being corrosive or anything to the tubes?


Unless you find a specialty paint for rubber it would most likely crack under the tension in those hoses.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stickg1*
> 
> Unless you find a specialty paint for rubber it would most likely crack under the tension in those hoses.


Not to mention the expanding/contracting when hot/cold


----------



## 8bitG33k

I guess I could just cut slits into the sleeve where the bend is to prevent it from doubling up on itself.


----------



## noobdown

Any one try mounting one of these to the nb?


----------



## M3TAl

Not that I know of, seems pretty ambitious. I guess you would need some kind of custom mounting bracket. Maybe dwoods could make one?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Connect it to the motherboard bro? Should be able to compare like that no?
> 
> As for the tubing...I'm with you on painting. That would be quite cool to do.


Motherboard would run 12V... I'm trying to compare all three fans at 1000, 1200, 1500, and each fans respective max rpm to compare noise and performance. I have no way to control the Antec fan's rpm. Well actually I can control the Antec fan using my old fan controller (which is what I used to do) but I would have no idea what rpm it was.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

A dam...!


----------



## Weshhh

Well guys im expecting my second 920 for my core 2 quad rig any moment, lets see if there is any difference between the my old one and the v4.


----------



## Maximization

v4..i am jealous


----------



## Weshhh

Well I got a older one, so no v4 for me


----------



## ndsn

Hey dk if its been asked and answered, but about determining which version of 620 and 920 are based on packaging

is the only difference in packaging between the old version and the v4 (or series 4) that the old version has "Antec 25" printed in the top left corner of the box, while the v4 just has "Antec".

im refering to this review with picture of the box for reference


----------



## M3TAl

Sorry, I have no idea. Maybe call or email Antec.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Just ordered 6 ft of Tygon 1/4 I.D. 3/8 O.D. tubing. Will be doing a full write up and hopefully adding a res.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Just ordered 6 ft of Tygon 1/4 I.D. 3/8 O.D. tubing. Will be doing a full write up and hopefully adding a res.


Looking forward to that!


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Just ordered 6 ft of Tygon 1/4 I.D. 3/8 O.D. tubing. Will be doing a full write up and hopefully adding a res.


If you don't add a res, how are you going to get the air out of the system? With a "t" and a longer fill tube?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Maybe, I'm tossing around a couple ideas.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Maybe, I'm tossing around a couple ideas.


I'm looking forward to seeing it!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

I've gotten the original tubes off so far and took pics but my new tubing hasn't shipped yet so it will be a couple of days.


----------



## azasadny

I changed my fans on the Intel Liquid CPU Cooler (rebadged Asetek unit) and I put the fans into a push-pull configuration and my temps dropped 15-20 degrees F under 100% CPU load ([email protected]). Incredible!


----------



## Kipsta77

Hello Everyon! I just got the 620 yesterday along with a corsair 550d. The screws provided to mount the fan and rad are not long enough. If they were only a couple millimeteres longer they would be able to be screwed into the rad.

I went to a hardware store today and looked for a 6-32. The closest they had was 5-32, which was too thick for the radiator.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

If I add a res does it have to be physically above the pump or just before it in the loop?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> If I add a res does it have to be physically above the pump or just before it in the loop?


Technically it should be the highest point in your system, but usually there is a radiator above the res. I think it should be above your pump though. Helps with initial fill up and purging,


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Alright thanks, looks like a bay res is my only option then but I will try without a res first.


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> Alright thanks, looks like a bay res is my only option then but I will try without a res first.


Thats what I used. Pretty inexpensive and does the trick


----------



## almighty15

Got my 920 coming for my 2500k









How does it perform on say a 4.8Ghz+ 2500k?

And has anyone tried running 120x38mm fans? What difference did they make?


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Anybody else measure the flow rate? I got 16GPH which I hope is very wrong.........


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kipsta77*
> 
> Hello Everyon! I just got the 620 yesterday along with a corsair 550d. The screws provided to mount the fan and rad are not long enough. If they were only a couple millimeteres longer they would be able to be screwed into the rad.
> 
> I went to a hardware store today and looked for a 6-32. The closest they had was 5-32, which was too thick for the radiator.
> 
> Any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks!


I found screws just like from Antec 620 and Corsair H100 in a toy store that sells remote controlled aircraft, cars, boats. They were from a brand that make that kind of toys, silver color and not cross head (flat screwdriver). They work very good in my push pull conf with 2xAntec 620 and one Corsair H100i.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Oh my what have we here


----------



## Maximization

its mutated


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Lol, leak testing has begun. Should I start a new thread for the how to or just put it here?


----------



## almighty15

How do you fill with no reservoir?


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> How do you fill with no reservoir?


Also curious about this, and how you got all of the air out.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr




----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*


That is awesome!!! So I can add another rad or upgrade it and using this method keep the Antec pump and cold plate combo









+rep


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Yup! That's my plan in the future is to get a 240mm rad but I wanted to make sure it all worked before I spent the money. Thanks!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

*Step one:*
Remove the two screws and pull out the bards from the pump assembly, make sure to have a bucket ready to drain the fluid.




*Step two:*
Take a knife or plastic cutters and cut lengthwise on the two retaining clamps on the Rad.




Remove the pipe, you may have to pry it off with a screwdriver.


Repeat for other side.


*Step Three*
Do the same for the pump side but be much more careful as the bards are plastic and you don't want to break them.






*Step Four*
Get some 1/4" I.D. tubing of your choice and cut it to the desired length.
Attached one side to the intake on the pump and one port on the rad and then the other tube to the pump output secured with whatever method pleases you (zip ties, hose clamps, etc.)

*Step Five- Filling and bleeding*
This is the tricky part. Get a container big enough to completely submerge your rad and fill it with you coolant.
Submerge the rad and wait for all of the bubbles to come up, move the rad around a bit. Have the pump out of the water with the output hose submerged.


Fill up the tubing, I just sucked through the output and it pulled the water through, pouring water into the input works also. Turn the pump on and move it around. Wait for most of the big air bubbles to come out, the pump with be a bit noisy. Turn the pump of and let it sit a while. Turn it back on and repeat until all the bubbles are gone and the pump is near silent.

Connect the last unconnected hose to the port on the rad while it is still under water, this will ensure not more air enters the system.

Let it sit and dry off and then begin leak testing it before installing in your system.

*Fin!*


----------



## DirtyTrickster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> *Step one:*
> Remove the two screws and pull out the bards from the pump assembly, make sure to have a bucket ready to drain the fluid.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Step two:*
> Take a knife or plastic cutters and cut lengthwise on the two retaining clamps on the Rad.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Remove the pipe, you may have to pry it off with a screwdriver.
> 
> 
> Repeat for other side.
> 
> 
> *Step Three*
> Do the same for the pump side but be much more careful as the bards are plastic and you don't want to break them.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Step Four*
> Get some 1/4" I.D. tubing of your choice and cut it to the desired length.
> Attached one side to the intake on the pump and one port on the rad and then the other tube to the pump output secured with whatever method pleases you (zip ties, hose clamps, etc.)
> 
> *Step Five- Filling and bleeding*
> This is the tricky part. Get a container big enough to completely submerge your rad and fill it with you coolant.
> Submerge the rad and wait for all of the bubbles to come up, move the rad around a bit. Have the pump out of the water with the output hose submerged.
> 
> 
> Fill up the tubing, I just sucked through the output and it pulled the water through, pouring water into the input works also. Turn the pump on and move it around. Wait for most of the big air bubbles to come out, the pump with be a bit noisy. Turn the pump of and let it sit a while. Turn it back on and repeat until all the bubbles are gone and the pump is near silent.
> 
> Connect the last unconnected hose to the port on the rad while it is still under water, this will ensure not more air enters the system.
> 
> Let it sit and dry off and then begin leak testing it before installing in your system.
> 
> *Fin!*


[/spolier]

well done sir


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DirtyTrickster*
> 
> [/spolier]
> 
> well done sir


I second this


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Thanks guys!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

You really are an evil genius!
Repped on phone.
Will add to the op when I get beck from my holiday!


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Thanks! A couple of small air bubbles have surfaced after overnight running but pump is still silent and temps are comparable to pre mod. Completely misjudged the tubing length lol.


----------



## anon31337

New Linux/MacOS Open-Source driver released for the Antec Kuhler 920. Also compatible with other rebadged "ASETEK" Coolers.

v0.5 is released here:

http://sourceforge.net/projects/kuhlerdriver/

This adds:

-Auto update hisograms [temperature / fan speed]
-Fix LED Colors
-better MacOS compatibility
-C/F temp units
-syslog reporting


----------



## M3TAl

Did you do a mock up install when you cut the tubes? The best thing to do is seat the block/pump and the rad where it will be for final install. Attach tubing to one of them and then pull it over to the other attachment point. Use your thumb and index finger to clamp down on the tubing where it would attach to the barb, then cut it.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

No, I just kind of guessed very poorly. I'll probably be replacing the rad soon anyway though so it doesn't matter.


----------



## Maximization

So when doing mods like that you need to add a fill line, drain line, and maybe a separate res. is the pump strong enought for the additional parts if you we're to do that?]


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Evil Genius Jr*
> 
> No, I just kind of guessed very poorly. I'll probably be replacing the rad soon anyway though so it doesn't matter.


added to OP


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> So when doing mods like that you need to add a fill line, drain line, and maybe a separate res. is the pump strong enought for the additional parts if you we're to do that?]


The res can be all those things... Depending on the case you might have to remove the res from the case to fill it and drain it though.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Microcenter had a sale


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Alright for some reason unknown to man and science the res dropped load temps by 7 degrees.


----------



## Maximization

that makes sense more liquid volume


----------



## hangman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anon31337*
> 
> New Linux/MacOS Open-Source driver released for the Antec Kuhler 920. Also compatible with other rebadged "ASETEK" Coolers.
> 
> v0.5 is released here:
> 
> http://sourceforge.net/projects/kuhlerdriver/
> 
> This adds:
> 
> -Auto update hisograms [temperature / fan speed]
> -Fix LED Colors
> -better MacOS compatibility
> -C/F temp units
> -syslog reporting


Hey nice job there! I notice you "clean room" reverse-engineered the usb part. Did Antec ask you (or force you) to do that?

Over time I've experimented around with my own personal little (win7) test app (eg manipulating the endpoints to keep the fan speed steady).
But mine really isn't "clean room". It uses the same Silabs usb driver installed by the ChillControl installer - and I figured out the packets by perusing the executable.

Interestingly, the original ChillControl installer I used had no had no legal notices or agreements or copyright notices whatsoever and the only copyright notice I found is buried in the executable. Even so, I don't want to antagonize the manufacturer or original developers by going public domain and sharing my stuff here as long as it uses the original driver.

Off the top of your head, does the libusb you used have a windows equivalent against which I could "port" your usb code to use as an api to the kuhler?


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Got my 920 coming for my 2500k
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How does it perform on say a 4.8Ghz+ 2500k?
> 
> And has anyone tried running 120x38mm fans? What difference did they make?


They are always noisy as all get out. Prone to vibration and growling at lower speeds.
I have an FHP 141 140mm x 38mm monster on my 920 with a 140mm-120mm adaptor.
Just 1 in push. OK at lower speeds, definitely noisy at high speed.
It cools my EVGA GTX670. I did the mod.

Previous write up:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1203528/official-nvidia-gpu-mod-club-aka-the-mod/3250#post_19130213


----------



## almighty15

Fitted mine yesterday... Max on max it's noisy!!! Even worse then I thought it would be!!..

It's cooling my 2500k at the moment, stock fans and cheap thermal paste.





And this is a quick run with my 2500k at 4.6Ghz @ 1.352v



Do they look OK?


----------



## M3TAl

Ya those stocks fans are loud. Pretty much any high rpm fan is though.

Is anyone on here good at programming??? Someone want to make me a simple program in VB that averages cpu core temp from a CSV file generated from Core Temp? I would do it but I'm HORRIBLE at programming. Shouldn't take someone who knows what they're doing more than 5-20min.


----------



## justanoldman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya those stocks fans are loud. Pretty much any high rpm fan is though.
> 
> Is anyone on here good at programming??? Someone want to make me a simple program in VB that averages cpu core temp from a CSV file generated from Core Temp? I would do it but I'm HORRIBLE at programming. Shouldn't take someone who knows what they're doing more than 5-20min.


http://www.hwinfo.com/download64.html
Open up the Sensor window, it has average core temps for however long you run it.
I am sure I could do the Excel VB, but HWiNFO64 gives you the average.


----------



## SmokinWaffle

Filled in the form.









My max temps are around 55C on a stock 3570k, but my case layout is very odd (PC-U6B), as the two side intakes are the only 120MM's available for me to use, so the hot air is just pushed back onto the socket. Not ideal, but I love the case. Temperatures were around the same in my old case (Silverstone PS07B), a few C cooler with Push/pull (not enough room in this case)

Should probably update the OP with the Khuler 1220, looks awesome.

Now, my reason for posting here, has anyone replaced the radiator on one of these? Getting an XSPC radiator from a friend soon (120mm) that needs a home, and I'm pretty sure it'd be better than the stock one, just looking for some advice. Guessing I might have to replace the tubing, too. Might add a bay res.

Also, whats the advantage of having the pump header/monitor/control thingy plugged in? I've never had mine connected..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SmokinWaffle*
> 
> Filled in the form.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My max temps are around 55C on a stock 3570k, but my case layout is very odd (PC-U6B), as the two side intakes are the only 120MM's available for me to use, so the hot air is just pushed back onto the socket. Not ideal, but I love the case. Temperatures were around the same in my old case (Silverstone PS07B), a few C cooler with Push/pull (not enough room in this case)
> 
> Should probably update the OP with the Khuler 1220, looks awesome.
> 
> Now, my reason for posting here, has anyone replaced the radiator on one of these? Getting an XSPC radiator from a friend soon (120mm) that needs a home, and I'm pretty sure it'd be better than the stock one, just looking for some advice. Guessing I might have to replace the tubing, too. Might add a bay res.
> 
> Also, whats the advantage of having the pump header/monitor/control thingy plugged in? I've never had mine connected..


Hey there!

If you check the OP there is a mod section - some of the lads here have done tube modding and whatnot








The advantages so far were a few degrees shaved off, but nothing special - more aesthetics than anything (tubing)
As for the rad - if you had to buy a new rad, tubing etc - it might be best to buy a new unit all together lol.

I would add the 1220 but no one has stated they have it for me to add it as an option!
I agree, it does look cool.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *justanoldman*
> 
> http://www.hwinfo.com/download64.html
> Open up the Sensor window, it has average core temps for however long you run it.
> I am sure I could do the Excel VB, but HWiNFO64 gives you the average.










. I've had hwinfo64 all this time. I even looked around in it for an avg feature and couldn't find it. I'll see if I can find it this time.

Maybe I'm mentally handicapped and blind, but where is it lol? Seriously I can't find it.


----------



## justanoldman

^Sensor Status window shows current, min, max, and ave. Just make the window bigger it is hiding to the right of max. You have the most recent one?


----------



## M3TAl

No mine is it not updated to the latest, it's ~6 months old. Guess it's time to update it


----------



## Coolwaters

my antec 620 just died... is there warranty any good?


----------



## anon31337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hangman*
> 
> Hey nice job there! I notice you "clean room" reverse-engineered the usb part. Did Antec ask you (or force you) to do that?
> 
> Over time I've experimented around with my own personal little (win7) test app (eg manipulating the endpoints to keep the fan speed steady).
> But mine really isn't "clean room". It uses the same Silabs usb driver installed by the ChillControl installer - and I figured out the packets by perusing the executable.
> 
> Interestingly, the original ChillControl installer I used had no had no legal notices or agreements or copyright notices whatsoever and the only copyright notice I found is buried in the executable. Even so, I don't want to antagonize the manufacturer or original developers by going public domain and sharing my stuff here as long as it uses the original driver.
> 
> Off the top of your head, does the libusb you used have a windows equivalent against which I could "port" your usb code to use as an api to the kuhler?


Thanks!

I tried Asking ASETEK Nicely, and their PR guy said they would ask their legal dept. No response, so I figured I would try to clean-room reverse engineer it to keep myself free of their lawyers.

Libusb does have a windows version. It's totally cross-platform. so in theory, my code should also compile on Windows. I've tried to keep it as simple as possible, using only well known POSIX or standard API's.

You may need to get rid of the ChillContol V software and the driver for my code to work though, I might give it a try myself.

Feel free to give it a shot. A front end for Windows/UNIX would be nice. Maybe something cross-platform. Let me know if you have any questions or comments about the code!

Thanks!


----------



## almighty15

Guys how strong is the pump on the 920?

Buying a case where all the fan point are 140mm so I'm toying with the idea of replacing the radiator with a 140mm one but not sure if the pump will take it or even what barb ID/OD I'll need to match the pump.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Guys how strong is the pump on the 920?
> 
> Buying a case where all the fan point are 140mm so I'm toying with the idea of replacing the radiator with a 140mm one but not sure if the pump will take it or even what barb ID/OD I'll need to match the pump.


1/4 I.D. tubing and barb. Pump isn't very strong but should work for you.


----------



## azasadny

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Coolwaters*
> 
> my antec 620 just died... is there warranty any good?


Let us know how this goes for you. I hope I never have to find out how good (or bad) Antec's tech support and warranty is. When I opened my 620, the Intel thumbscrews were missing and it took two weeks for Antec to send the right ones. They kept sending the AMD thumbscrews, so now I have 20 of those...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azasadny*
> 
> Let us know how this goes for you. I hope I never have to find out how good (or bad) Antec's tech support and warranty is. When I opened my 620, the Intel thumbscrews were missing and it took two weeks for Antec to send the right ones. They kept sending the AMD thumbscrews, so now I have 20 of those...


they were good with me, but a little slow to respond / turn-around time (warranty wise)


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *azasadny*
> 
> Let us know how this goes for you. I hope I never have to find out how good (or bad) Antec's tech support and warranty is. When I opened my 620, the Intel thumbscrews were missing and it took two weeks for Antec to send the right ones. They kept sending the AMD thumbscrews, so now I have 20 of those...


From the experience that I had, its a bit bad. I had tried replacing my Big Boy fan in my Antec 1200. Waited over like a month and called in again to ask whats going on. Apparently the process order must has slipped through the cracks. Then waited another week and a half to get the fan on rush delivery. Still i found Antecs durability to be very good.
Anyone know if the 920 fits on the back of Antec GX700?


----------



## M3TAl

Update on my fan testing: sound video is done. Temp testing has Helix and stock 620 fan left for testing. And figuring out how to get all this in bar graphs the way I want it to look.

Now that the Helix is hooked up to the cpu header I can read the RPM from the board sensor; my suspicions during noise testing are confirmed. This Helix does not like my fan controller. Fan RPM keeps changing between 932-1160 when it should be running ~1000. I'll have to use my other fan controller and see if the Helix will hold RPM properly.

Edit again: So it appears these Helix fans have to spend ~5min going up and down in RPM before finally settling down. Very weird. None of the Cougars do this.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

When you have the results, post them in one organised post and I'll link it in the op


----------



## wntrsnowg

I have been searching around for quite some time and been unable to find an answer to my questions...

My card is the Powercolor 7870 Myst Tahiti 2gb version. I've read up and found that a shim is needed for the 7950/70. Do I need a shim (from the triptcc website) for my 7870 Tahiti ?


----------



## ewewooldye

Hello all, first post so please be gentle.....

I have just purchased a 920 to cool my 2700k (overclocked to 4.3GHz), unfortunately it doesn't quite fit in my Li-Lian PC-Q11B case as one of the fans fouls on the modular cables from my SFX PSU.

So my questions are;
Has anybody run a 920 with a single fan?
Has anybody tried slimline fans with the 920? I could possibly fit a 25mm + 15mm. I was looking at possibly purchasing two Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 140mm x 15mm Slim Profile PWM Fans but I am concerned that I may have an issue with static pressure.

The most important aspect of any solution is the noise, my priority is for a quiet solution!

And before anybody mentions it, I am aware that I should have measured before purchasing but it was an impulse buy - I've been struggling with the fan controller on my P8Z77-I motherboard running the CPU and case fans at 100% (very noisy!)

Thanks for your help


----------



## banjovial2

Hey there.
I have the 620 installed on an amd motherboard. I am in the process off switching to a asus gene maximus iii and I have run into some problems. First, it looks like the capacitors around the cpu socket are going to be in the way of the mounting bracket. Is there a solution to this or is it not compatible with this board? Second, I am having trouble getting the screws out of the clips in the amd mounting ring. If there is a trick to this, I wouldn't mind hearing it! The maximus iii is an 1155 board but I was under the impression that that would not be a problem.


----------



## M3TAl

It should be virtually impossible for the mounting bracket to block or obstruct anything. The stock mounting bracket for air coolers takes up more room than the Antec bracket.

About the 920 and a single fan, yes you can run a single fan but temps will be worse. Not sure about slim fans.


----------



## Hody

I have a 920 v4 and running Chill Control VI v.1 - the only available software at the moment. The System is Windows 8 64bits.

My problem is that the CPU temp is not shown in the software and that I am not able to toggle the Fans down to less than 25% which is 1350 RPM.

Does anybody know how to slow the fans down or has experience with the v4, windows 8 and chill control VI

Thank you guys


----------



## M3TAl

Ok boys and girls, the fan tests are finally complete. Made a thread in the air cooling section *here.
* The results really surprised me...

I don't believe you can lower the fans anymore then that. Don't know why you can't see CPU temp either. Try Open Hardware monitor, CPUID HW Monitor, Core Temp, or HWiNFO64.


----------



## Hody

With other HW monitoring tools the CPU temp works like a charm, like 27 for a 3570k - so you're saying that 1350 RPM is the lowest it will get?


----------



## Spectre-

this is my first liquid cooling system... i am just impressed

i mean i was impressed when i got the evo 212 bu this system is so awesome

28 idle in my room barely goes over 65


----------



## M3TAl

Well at least the lowest with the Antec software. Might get lower with molex to 7v cables or a fan controller. Or maybe your motherboard has fan control options?


----------



## hustler68

I just had an email off Antec Europe and they want 10 Euros for the replacement backing plate for my 620..

I explained that it was under warranty and even emailed them my original invoice as proof of purchase.

I explained that the pins in the backing plate now will not tighten up due plastic holes wearing when I have replaced the unit to a different machine..

Im well peeved now ......


----------



## Maximization

thats not cool


----------



## azrael36

I own the antec kuhler 620, I purchased it used here on the OCN Marketplace from a fellow member. I installed it into a computer that I was building for my brother. When I started the system there was some loud noise initially, I am familiar with the noise that some pumps make upon startup due to air pockets etc around the impeller. I shook and tilted the water block and it quited down very well. Upon final mounting and installation into the case and startup the noises had returned, no amount of shaking and tilting would alleviate it. I removed it from the build and installed an air cooler I had laying around. No big deal, ya know. I took the pump apart and drained the coolant. Inspection of the coolant revealed some small particulate. I continued cleaning the water block housing and parts and was putting it together. I was wondering, if I should strain out the coolant that was removed from the kuhler or if there was an alternative that I could use. I've read in the water cooling forums that distilled water/isopropyl alcohol mix will suffice for coolant. Is this an acceptable replacement? Any suggestions as to what I can use?


----------



## M3TAl

Swiftech's Hydrx is good and cheap, or just distilled water and PT Nuke. Also distilled and a silver coil. Can't comment on isopropyl alcohol, but I'm no water cooling expert.


----------



## azrael36

thanks!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Hody*
> 
> With other HW monitoring tools the CPU temp works like a charm, like 27 for a 3570k - so you're saying that 1350 RPM is the lowest it will get?


600RPM is the lowest the stock antec fans on my 920 could go.
The lowest I've seen my SP120's is 850RPM (connected via motherboard)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hustler68*
> 
> I just had an email off Antec Europe and they want 10 Euros for the replacement backing plate for my 620..
> 
> I explained that it was under warranty and even emailed them my original invoice as proof of purchase.
> 
> I explained that the pins in the backing plate now will not tighten up due plastic holes wearing when I have replaced the unit to a different machine..
> 
> Im well peeved now ......


That's not right - I got mine sent to me for free.
Try sending them another email.


----------



## hustler68

Hi m8..

I resent them an email stating that it was still under warranty and resent the scan of the original invoice.

I had an email back withing the hour saying that there is now a 10 Euro charge for the backplate...

I also told them that all posts that i saw on this forum that concerned problems with the backplate have had their replacements replaced for free..

Obviously it looks as if im going to have to pay the 10 Euros or i cant use the 620...

Looks like I wont be buying a Kuhler in the future when I upgrade..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hustler68*
> 
> Hi m8..
> 
> I resent them an email stating that it was still under warranty and resent the scan of the original invoice.
> 
> I had an email back withing the hour saying that there is now a 10 Euro charge for the backplate...
> 
> I also told them that all posts that i saw on this forum that concerned problems with the backplate have had their replacements replaced for free..
> 
> Obviously it looks as if im going to have to pay the 10 Euros or i cant use the 620...
> 
> Looks like I wont be buying a Kuhler in the future when I upgrade..


Let me give them an email asking them about this.


----------



## hustler68

Thank TD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hustler68*
> 
> Thank TD


I'll let ya know if and when they get back to me


----------



## WarDad

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ewewooldye*
> 
> Hello all, first post so please be gentle.....
> 
> I have just purchased a 920 to cool my 2700k (overclocked to 4.3GHz), unfortunately it doesn't quite fit in my Li-Lian PC-Q11B case as one of the fans fouls on the modular cables from my SFX PSU.
> 
> So my questions are;
> Has anybody run a 920 with a single fan?
> Has anybody tried slimline fans with the 920? I could possibly fit a 25mm + 15mm. I was looking at possibly purchasing two Prolimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 140mm x 15mm Slim Profile PWM Fans but I am concerned that I may have an issue with static pressure.
> 
> The most important aspect of any solution is the noise, my priority is for a quiet solution!
> 
> And before anybody mentions it, I am aware that I should have measured before purchasing but it was an impulse buy - I've been struggling with the fan controller on my P8Z77-I motherboard running the CPU and case fans at 100% (very noisy!)
> 
> Thanks for your help


A second fan is not needed. It helps a little on most radiator, maybe 5%. It helps more with the thicker or more restrictive radiators. A high static pressure fan in push is a good choice.


----------



## Theroty

I purchased a 920 from Newegg last week. I had a pump with a bad bearing. I did everything I could do to get any trapped air to move out of the pump. In the end, none of my attempts were successful. I ended up sending it back Friday for refund. I chose refund because I was unhappy with the way it fit in my Antec 1200. The side panel fan mount pressed very hard on the water port next to the side panel. From what testing I got out of the Antec 920 though, I was very impressed with the temps. My fx-8350 stayed very cool and the temps were a good bit lower than my Hyper 212+.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Thanks for sharing your experience


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Theroty*
> 
> I purchased a 920 from Newegg last week. I had a pump with a bad bearing. I did everything I could do to get any trapped air to move out of the pump. In the end, none of my attempts were successful. I ended up sending it back Friday for refund. I chose refund because I was unhappy with the way it fit in my Antec 1200. The side panel fan mount pressed very hard on the water port next to the side panel. From what testing I got out of the Antec 920 though, I was very impressed with the temps. My fx-8350 stayed very cool and the temps were a good bit lower than my Hyper 212+.


I have My 920 in an Antec 1200 case also. You can fit the radiator in the top exhaust with little modding. It's very easy. I meant to write a guide about it, just havent gotten the time to do it so. All you really need is 20 minutes of your time and a nibbler and the 920 can be mounted on the top exhaust. I image this mod would work for any rad that you are trying to still in the back exhaust in the case.


----------



## DjBodya

Well it seems I have found the time to write the guide today
So here it is in case someone is interested:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1382324/fitting-the-antec-kuhler-h2o-920-in-antec-1200-case-guide


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Well it seems I have found the time to write the guide today
> So here it is in case someone is interested:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1382324/fitting-the-antec-kuhler-h2o-920-in-antec-1200-case-guide


+rep to that!
And added to the "mods" section in the OP







!


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> +rep to that!
> And added to the "mods" section in the OP
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Thnx!


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Well it seems I have found the time to write the guide today
> So here it is in case someone is interested:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1382324/fitting-the-antec-kuhler-h2o-920-in-antec-1200-case-guide


I never realized the power of a nibbler , good write up


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> I never realized the power of a nibbler , good write up


Its quite and nifty little thing.

So I build a new baby yesterday







. Running Prime95 on 3770k @4.1 for 12 hrs now. This is my first vdroop offset. So far Prime95 hit 80C. My Prime temps are higher than my IBT tepms. I've never seen this before. O.O


----------



## Beliar

Hey guys,

I've switched to Intel platform today (now i feel the power :F).
Anyways, got a Kuhler 620 with 2 great fans (Enermax Magma) push & pull.

Now on my previous platform wich was Phenom X2 550 BE @ X4 B50 (3,8 ghz) my CPU temp inder stress (OCCT) was like 44 degrees.

Today on I5 3550, overclocked to 4,1 ghz i have 29-33 degrees idle and around 65-70 in stress.

I was expecting higher temps, but what the...

I noticed that pump is making wierd sounds (yeah, another one) and hence it's connected to the 4 pin CPU fan connector the pump runs on full speed all the time.

Are the "wierd sounds" affecting performance? I tried putting the case on side and then running the cooler. The pump was a bit more quiet but still making those sounds.

I even demounted the pump and shaked it a bit, no changes...

Aren't the temps too high? Even with the fans running 100% im still getting high temps on stress tests.

PS. Does antec have any kind of step up / upgrade system?


----------



## M3TAl

The core temps from AMD can not be compared to Intel in any meaningful way really. Intel uses real sensors in each core. AMD's is a made up number based on some formula based on some other things I don't really know; just that based on AMD's formula you don't want to exceed 62C on core temps. The actual core temp is something higher than 62C most likely.

I'm not an Intel guy but I think those temps are normal... Isn't the danger zone for Ivy Bridge 80C+? 65-70C seems fine.


----------



## Maximization

the intel temps seem fine
you should fill out system info in your sig.

depending on mobo , some come with monitoring software which will flash a pop up if you are coming close to a temp event. my default for my i7 is 80c to trigger warning. With the 920 on extreme i have never gone over 55c with heavy bench marking load. Of course summer is comming i am sure it will go up but i got some play room. this thread was good when i was researching my build last year.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1272575/core-i7-3820-max-temp

"the Tj. Max of the i5-2500K and the i7-2600K is 98°C. The T-Case is 72.6°C"


----------



## Beliar

From what i know the max temp for 3550 is 105 degrees celcius.

Anyways the 70 degrees are only happening in Intel Burn Test. Even in OCCT they're max 62. While gaming they go up to 52, nothing more.

All in all im still gonna reapply the thermal paste. Still got the wierd pump sound to worry...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Max temp for the i5 is 105c - TJ MAX
Realistically, you don't want to be exceeding 95c on full load (P95).

For the antec making noise - I would take it back, and get a new one.
Temps wise however those are looking very good - I would have to ask are you OC'ed properly? I mean have you stressed tested your OC and at what voltage are you running at?


----------



## Beliar

Well,

Hence it's 3550. I upped the multiplier to 39 and i also upped the BLCK just a bit, to hit 4 ghz (now it's 102,8

As far as voltage is concerned, i set it to 1,2V for testing and it works without any probs.

I've enabled all the intel energy saving options and it actually works good aswell









UPDATE.

I was trying to fix the kuhler pump noise. I turned the radiator upside down (now the tubes are higher) and i also reinstalled the pump... Guess what.

The pump is still making this stupid noise, but the temps dropped by 10 degrees. What the?

Now on stress they don't exceed 58 degrees celcius...

And i did everything excatly the same. I don't get Antec >_>


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> Well,
> 
> Hence it's 3550. I upped the multiplier to 39 and i also upped the BLCK just a bit, to hit 4 ghz (now it's 102,8
> 
> As far as voltage is concerned, i set it to 1,2V for testing and it works without any probs.
> 
> I've enabled all the intel energy saving options and it actually works good aswell
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> UPDATE.
> 
> I was trying to fix the kuhler pump noise. I turned the radiator upside down (now the tubes are higher) and i also reinstalled the pump... Guess what.
> 
> The pump is still making this stupid noise, but the temps dropped by 10 degrees. What the?
> 
> Now on stress they don't exceed 58 degrees celcius...
> 
> And i did everything excatly the same. I don't get Antec >_>


probably your fitting - as for your OC...I highly suggest you read this thread for a guide on getting it actually stable:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## Beliar

The OC is stable, but unfortunately the kuhler can't handle the temps as i wanted it to do it.

And the pump noise is wondering me. I've contacted antec support and i've sent them the pre-recorded sound... Hope they send me a new one or a refund or maybe i'm gonna be able to upgrade it to 920.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> The OC is stable, but unfortunately the kuhler can't handle the temps as i wanted it to do it.
> 
> And the pump noise is wondering me. I've contacted antec support and i've sent them the pre-recorded sound... Hope they send me a new one or a refund or maybe i'm gonna be able to upgrade it to 920.


I would definitely get a 920 over 620, you will see much better results

So I heard Antec is releasing a 240 rad called 1220. Is the back plate still plastic on that thing?


----------



## M3TAl

No idea. Didn't know they had a 240mm rad in the works. Though for me personally, my next big jump in cooling will be a Swiftech H220 or full custom water.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I would definitely get a 920 over 620, you will see much better results
> 
> So I heard Antec is releasing a 240 rad called 1220. Is the back plate still plastic on that thing?


would he?
You can get a 620 - then put two fans on it - and you basically have a 920 lol


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> No idea. Didn't know they had a 240mm rad in the works. Though for me personally, my next big jump in cooling will be a Swiftech H220 or full custom water.


yeah same here, it gets pricey though, i specd a system that would do the same as a 920 for starters, 500 usd, fully expandable but it gets pricey.


----------



## Beliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> would he?
> You can get a 620 - then put two fans on it - and you basically have a 920 lol


Got that already. 620 + 2x 120mm Enermax Magma fans.

Thing is, pump is making bad noises and i wanna change the cooler anyway, performance isn't as good as i would expect it to be on Intel...

Anyone know if the swifttech h220 is available in europe? I checked few stores but it says out of stock


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> would he?
> You can get a 620 - then put two fans on it - and you basically have a 920 lol


I've had both and the 920 is much better.... Putting 2 fans on the 620 won't make up for the fact that its radiator is half the thickness of the 920's.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> Got that already. 620 + 2x 120mm Enermax Magma fans.
> 
> Thing is, pump is making bad noises and i wanna change the cooler anyway, performance isn't as good as i would expect it to be on Intel...
> 
> Anyone know if the swifttech h220 is available in europe? I checked few stores but it says out of stock


Why don't you just RMA/return the cooler?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> I've had both and the 920 is much better.... Putting 2 fans on the 620 won't make up for the fact that its radiator is half the thickness of the 920's.


true true


----------



## jam71

Hello everyone, I wanted to know if you can buy the bracket for my antec 920 to mount the i7 3770 socket 1155, now I have the amd socket am3, I state that I do not have the receipt dell'antec 920, are happy owner a few years now and I wont retire:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jam71*
> 
> Hello everyone, I wanted to know if you can buy the bracket for my antec 920 to mount the i7 3770 socket 1155, now I have the amd socket am3, I state that I do not have the receipt dell'antec 920, are happy owner a few years now and I wont retire:thumb:


you can buy one from antec - if you email support


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> would he?
> You can get a 620 - then put two fans on it - and you basically have a 920 lol


The rad is a bit thicker there should be a difference of 2-3 C on high load. Well that's what I remember seeing in various testing when I was researching the 2. Plus I like the custom colour and the software








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> No idea. Didn't know they had a 240mm rad in the works. Though for me personally, my next big jump in cooling will be a Swiftech H220 or full custom water.


I dont like ******* around with water XD.


----------



## Beliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Why don't you just RMA/return the cooler?
> true true


Yeah working on it. In fact, if it's really broken, the shop i bought it in offered a replacement - Corsair H90

Secondly, i managed to fix the pump. But the fix was BIOS related. Someone told me to turn off all the fan related options on the MB, so the pump would get full voltage all the time, not only on stress. Did that and voila


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> Yeah working on it. In fact, if it's really broken, the shop i bought it in offered a replacement - Corsair H90
> 
> Secondly, i managed to fix the pump. But the fix was BIOS related. Someone told me to turn off all the fan related options on the MB, so the pump would get full voltage all the time, not only on stress. Did that and voila


How very interesting...what MB options did you play around with that made the pump work?
Mind showing us some screenshots - would be helpful for future problems


----------



## M3TAl

Probably the fan setting that down volts the cpu fan. Don't know what it is for Asrock. Seems his pump wasn't getting the full 12V.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quite intriguing. I know it can fluctuate the voltage, but I would have thought the software would be there to counter it....maybe that's why the 620 has problems as there's no software for it, unlike the 920


----------



## Beliar

Well.

On my old motherboard (Gigabyte MA770T-UD3 (rev 3.1)) the kuhler 620 RPM control was working, because the motherboard had a 3 pin CPU fan header.

The pump was working from 1100 RPM up to 1500 RPM.

Now on Asrock P67 Pro3, i have two CPU fan headers. One is 4 pin and one is 3 pin.

It doesn't matter in wich im gonna plug the pump in, because the pump runs full RPM all the time.

Now that's when the UEFI options come in.

I don't have any kind of "smart fan" options. I can only set, at wich temperature the motherboard would give the pump full 12 volts.

I set the temp at 50 degrees celcius. While i was on desktop or was gaming, i wasn't passing 45 degrees, so the pump was making the wierd noise.

But in OCCT/IBT/Linx, it was okay.

So first i disabled the 50 degree fan control, i tried setting it lower. But the pump was still making noise. Finally i just enabled "Full RPM, no control" option and it's okay now.

The pump still makes noise sometimes, but in only happens randomly and just for a few minutes. Other then that it's silent.

I still got the Antec ticket opened. Wonder what they will say. I spend whole weekend trying to fix the pump noise and i really had no clue that voltage was the problem.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

+rep for sharing! Thanks a lot for that - I'll keep your post in mind in case others experience it.
I would still see what Antec say. Who knows maybe they'll replace it or give you an explanation.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> The pump still makes noise sometimes, but in only happens randomly and just for a few minutes. Other then that it's silent.
> 
> I still got the Antec ticket opened. Wonder what they will say. I spend whole weekend trying to fix the pump noise and i really had no clue that voltage was the problem.


But it shouldn't make any noise ever, except sometimes when you keep the pc turned off for awhile it will make noise on first bootup. Mine used to be silent even in those circumstances but there has probably been some evaporation overtime, now it always makes noise on bootup if it has been off for awhile.

The noise on mine is just water/air swooshing around in the pump. Noise disappears in 30 seconds or so.


----------



## Beliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> But it shouldn't make any noise ever, except sometimes when you keep the pc turned off for awhile it will make noise on first bootup. Mine used to be silent even in those circumstances but there has probably been some evaporation overtime, now it always makes noise on bootup if it has been off for awhile.
> 
> The noise on mine is just water/air swooshing around in the pump. Noise disappears in 30 seconds or so.


Yup. That's why im still a bit worried. Im waiting for Antec support to respond, as ussualy they're not too fast.

Anyway i won't risk working on (possibly) damaged pump. If it's gonna destroy my hardware antec probably won't pay for it







Let's face it, it's not Corsair.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beliar*
> 
> Yup. That's why im still a bit worried. Im waiting for Antec support to respond, as ussualy they're not too fast.
> 
> Anyway i won't risk working on (possibly) damaged pump. If it's gonna destroy my hardware antec probably won't pay for it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Let's face it, it's not Corsair.


at least it is working - that's the good news.
But as the above user said - if it were me I would have gotten it replaced

Why didn't you just go to the retailer you bought it from and just said: "it is faulty"


----------



## Artikbot

BTW guys, I figured I'd just drop this around here, in case anyone was wondering.

The pump unit has no reverse polarity protection diode. That is, you plug it in the wrong way (say, to an external PSU), it burns. I killed my unit this way.

Sent a message to Asetek/Antec asking how come there isn't one, they ignored my mail.


----------



## Beliar

I bought the kuhler from a friend, wich has bought it from the shop for a really low price, because he is their supplier.

That's gotta be him, that return the cooler, cause as a supplier he will probably get the cash back. The standard RMA policy in this shop is 14 work days on repairs/diagnostics.

And i personally can't wait the 14 days so. Gonna buy the h100i instead and sell this... this product









Oh and btw. I wrote to US support.

They responded after 15 (!!!) minutes. Holy cow.
Quote:


> Thank you for contacting Antec Inc. In regards with your issues with the Kuhler 620, the noise that you're hearing is a bad impeller on the pump. The tiny impeller is offset that's why when the pump activates it's either stuck and would not rotate or it's rotating but the circulation is low and thus making the impeller makes this grinding noise because there is no lubrication when turning. It could be an air bubbles but when the unit runs for more than 30 minutes, the air bubbles usually dissipates and you won't hear any bubbles inside the system. The cooling unit has a built in thermostat and this will send the signal to the pump and the fan and the hotter your CPU gets, the RPM on the pump and fan automatically adjusts to cool down its specific temperature.
> 
> Listening to your video, it's definitely a bad pump on your unit


They also offered me a help if my retailer won't change the product or the EU support beeing slow (as they are).


----------



## SinatraFan

My 920 pump "ticked" for a few days and now it's silent as can be.


----------



## ewewooldye

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> A second fan is not needed. It helps a little on most radiator, maybe 5%. It helps more with the thicker or more restrictive radiators. A high static pressure fan in push is a good choice.


Thanks for your info, based on that I decided to press ahead and try to install the 920.

In the end it was a very tight squeeze to get the 920 in the Li-Lian PC-Q11 case but it was worth it - temps are now quite reasonable idling at around 42c with prime95 topping out at around 75c after running for 30 mins or so. Noise is very very low when on silent and doesn't really ramp unless using prime95. In the end I managed to get 25mm and 12mm Scythe fans attached by making my own 140mm to 120mm bracket. All in all very pleased but given the hassle I will probably use a bigger case and matx board next time


----------



## anonymous83

anyone can share the temps, using a 620 on a [email protected], please?


----------



## WarDad

42


----------



## NFSxperts

I just got the 920 intending to replace my H60 in my SFF system, but the pump is louder than I thought and I couldn't fit it in the case with push pull.
The sample of how the pump should sound in the OP isn't very clear so I did some recordings of my own. Could someone tell me if this is normal?

antec 920 pump sounds.zip 390k .zip file


There are 3 wma sound files:
ambient room noise, pump not running
mic close to pump, pump running
mic against the pump, pump running


----------



## M3TAl

It's not that it isn't clear, it's that the pump is so quiet. I can't make it much clearer than a large diaphragm condenser mic right up to the pump lol.

Your pump sounds pretty normal unless it's really loud. My pump sounds pretty close to that but there's no way you can hear it over normal 1000 RPM fan noise.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's the reason the video in the op is correct. As you cannot hear it, even with a Mic right next to it.


----------



## anonymous83

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *WarDad*
> 
> 42


Idle or under load?


----------



## Beliar

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *anonymous83*
> 
> Idle or under load?


I bet it's idle. No way kuhler 620 can cool stressed 3570k so good









My 620 on 3550 was doing 73 degrees while stressing with IBT... And i was using push & pull (2x Enermax Magma) in a VERY good ventilated case. Pretty pathethic performance.

However on Phenom II X4, i had 44/45 degrees on full load...


----------



## M3TAl

These numbers mean nothing unless you have an ambient temp. Is his ambient 30C or 20C? Big difference.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I wouldn't base one person's temps on yours, they'll be different. But what you do have to see is a huge difference (like 20c+) vs the stock cooler


----------



## almighty15

Just ordered me a 620 and Dwoods bracket so I can bolt it to mt MSI Twin Frozr 7950 Boost









And order some article cooling PWN F series fans so should be very quiet


----------



## M3TAl

Give us before and after temps with a benchmark like Heaven or FurMark. Been curious how much better the 620 is over stock vga fans.


----------



## Heavynator

I have a problem with my Antec H2O 620 after 3/4 years of usage; my temps have been getting much higher recently ( sth. around 20-30°C ), besides that the outlet tube is very hot compared the inlet tube and the radiator is cold, even the air it blows out doesn't seem to be warm at all.
It seems like the pump is broken, can anyone confirm this? And is there a way to fix this or do I have to send it back?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavynator*
> 
> I have a problem with my Antec H2O 620 after 3/4 years of usage; my temps have been getting much higher recently ( sth. around 20-30°C ), besides that the outlet tube is very hot compared the inlet tube and the radiator is cold, even the air it blows out doesn't seem to be warm at all.
> It seems like the pump is broken, can anyone confirm this? And is there a way to fix this or do I have to send it back?


I would send it back if I were you - but before doing that. Check your mount is still strong and more so, try replacing the thermal paste


----------



## Heavynator

Already replaced the thermal paste, still the same.
Like I said, the water IS hot! But it doesn't seem to flow anymore, because the inlet isn't warm a bit!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavynator*
> 
> Already replaced the thermal paste, still the same.
> Like I said, the water IS hot! But it doesn't seem to flow anymore, because the inlet isn't warm a bit!


then I would suggest putting the stock cooler back on (closely monitoring your CPU temps, as you don't want to burn the CPU) and contact antec's customer support.


----------



## M3TAl

What does the pump rpm read when connected to the motherboard? Your radiator isn't caked with dust after 3 years is it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What does the pump rpm read when connected to the motherboard? Your radiator isn't caked with dust after 3 years is it?


I'm not sure if he meant 3-4years of three quarters of a year lol!
But yes, good question/analysis!


----------



## NFSxperts

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It's not that it isn't clear, it's that the pump is so quiet. I can't make it much clearer than a large diaphragm condenser mic right up to the pump lol.
> 
> Your pump sounds pretty normal unless it's really loud. My pump sounds pretty close to that but there's no way you can hear it over normal 1000 RPM fan noise.


Thanks for actually answering my question. If that's normal, its a lot louder than my H60. I can hear it within a foot away.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's the reason the video in the op is correct. As you cannot hear it, even with a Mic right next to it.


Could you please clarify? I heard buzzing and beeping noise in the video, is that just background microphone noise or from the pump or the leds?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFSxperts*
> 
> I just got the 920 intending to replace my H60 in my SFF system, but the pump is louder than I thought and I couldn't fit it in the case with push pull.
> The sample of how the pump should sound in the OP isn't very clear so I did some recordings of my own. Could someone tell me if this is normal?
> 
> antec 920 pump sounds.zip 390k .zip file
> 
> 
> There are 3 wma sound files:
> ambient room noise, pump not running
> mic close to pump, pump running
> mic against the pump, pump running


pumping this post in case other people missed it. Would like to hear more feedback.


----------



## M3TAl

The buzzing is the pump and clicking is the HDD when I turn mic gain WAY near end of video. You shouldn't be able to hear the pump at all unless your ear is right next to it. So if you can hear yours over case fans etc then it's not right.


----------



## Weshhh

Guys I need the antec 920 chillcontrol software but I just can't seem to find the link to their website.
Could someone help me out?
ps I don't have my cd anymore.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Weshhh*
> 
> Guys I need the antec 920 chillcontrol software but I just can't seem to find the link to their website.
> Could someone help me out?
> ps I don't have my cd anymore.


Here's a post link:
http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/3400#post_19236957

That's the latest one.
You can also find the older ones if needs be!

Hope that helps


----------



## Heavynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm not sure if he meant 3-4years of three quarters of a year lol!
> But yes, good question/analysis!


I meant 3 quarters of a year, not 3 to 4 years









The radiator has been cleaned (it was the first thing I did after getting these temps...) and the pump has 1500rpm. But from seeing the mechanics of the Antec pumps ( a few pages back in this topic) I dont think that reading the rpm count is possible, but I may be wrong.

I still have the Antec on my board because I can't find the damn stock cooler anymore







(and I need my PC for school atm







)
However, I am going to contact Antec in the following days.

BTW: Is there any way to check the fluid flow in the system without risking warranty?


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavynator*
> 
> I meant 3 quarters of a year, not 3 to 4 years
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The radiator has been cleaned (it was the first thing I did after getting these temps...) and the pump has 1500rpm. But from seeing the mechanics of the Antec pumps ( a few pages back in this topic) I dont think that reading the rpm count is possible, but I may be wrong.
> 
> I still have the Antec on my board because I can't find the damn stock cooler anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (and I need my PC for school atm
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )
> However, I am going to contact Antec in the following days.
> 
> BTW: Is there any way to check the fluid flow in the system without risking warranty?


The software that came with my 920 definitely tracks the rpm's of the pump. And based on your description, I have to say that either the pump has failed or there is a blockage going into the rad. Either way, it's not good!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Agreed with the above. But again please make sure that your CPU TJ Max temps aren't being exceeded!


----------



## Heavynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Agreed with the above. But again please make sure that your CPU TJ Max temps aren't being exceeded!


Don't worry, I have reseted to stock speeds already and undervolted to prevent damage.
But still 46°C in idle... this isn't good...
I`ll just hope that it won't explode or something


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Don't put load on it as much as you can. Just be on the safe side until everything is sorted.


----------



## DjBodya

Hey guys I was wondering if maybe someone could help me. So i was putting back my old rig together, since my friends says he wants it. So I got a 550w PS to run a Q6700 @ 3.1, 9800 GT and Antec 920 cooler. there some fans and a hard drive, but those are nothing in my eyes. I got the system to post before putting everything into the case. And once after that couldn't get it to post at all. Then I finally hooked up my power supply and everything posted just fine. Shouldn't 550W be more than enough to run this or is a defective power supply. I got it to post with the 550W after lowering the OC to stock but then after like 2-3mins of running I get a CPU and VR LEDs light up. I should mention that sometimes when I stick the plug into the power supply u can hear like a static clap. So bad power supply?









I know i ran more on a 550W on this other "economy" build I made for a friend.


----------



## M3TAl

What kind of 550W power supply are we talking about? A quality unit from Antec, Corsair, Seasonic, etc? Or a piece of junk like Raidmax, Dialbotek, etc?

There are many sub 300W units from reliable brands that are a million times better than some random junk 550W psu.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What kind of 550W power supply are we talking about? A quality unit from Antec, Corsair, Seasonic, etc? Or a piece of junk like Raidmax, Dialbotek, etc?
> 
> There are many sub 300W units from reliable brands that are a million times better than some random junk 550W psu.


I was given some VisionTek 550W. Never heard of them, but was very impressed when I saw detachable cables of the PSU.
Imma tell him to return it and I'll order him a 600w CX600. Newegg has a nice sale on them going on right now.


----------



## M3TAl

I don't know can't really find any info on it, even from visiontek themselves. I wouldn't trust it.


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Here's a post link:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/3400#post_19236957
> 
> That's the latest one.
> You can also find the older ones if needs be!
> 
> Hope that helps


Links not worky


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Hey guys I was wondering if maybe someone could help me. So i was putting back my old rig together, since my friends says he wants it. So I got a 550w PS to run a Q6700 @ 3.1, 9800 GT and Antec 920 cooler. there some fans and a hard drive, but those are nothing in my eyes. I got the system to post before putting everything into the case. And once after that couldn't get it to post at all. Then I finally hooked up my power supply and everything posted just fine. Shouldn't 550W be more than enough to run this or is a defective power supply. I got it to post with the 550W after lowering the OC to stock but then after like 2-3mins of running I get a CPU and VR LEDs light up. I should mention that sometimes when I stick the plug into the power supply u can hear like a static clap. So bad power supply?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I know i ran more on a 550W on this other "economy" build I made for a friend.


Bad PSU in my eyes.

550W is more than what you need to power that system
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Links not worky


SHoudl do bro:
http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip

Direct link to download


----------



## Heavynator

Update on my Antec H2O 620 problem:
My friend borrowed me his CNPS9900 MAX until I get the Antec via RMA back.
But now I see that the temps are way better than my old Antec cooler ever hoped to be and is way more silent (even with a good fan on the radiator).
Now I am thinking about buying the Zalman cooler instead of the Antec...









However, just wanted to inform ya guys that my problem is solved atm, thx for good (and fast) support.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavynator*
> 
> Update on my Antec H2O 620 problem:
> My friend borrowed me his CNPS9900 MAX until I get the Antec via RMA back.
> But now I see that the temps are way better than my old Antec cooler ever hoped to be and is way more silent (even with a good fan on the radiator).
> Now I am thinking about buying the Zalman cooler instead of the Antec...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, just wanted to inform ya guys that my problem is solved atm, thx for good (and fast) support.


glad to see that WAS the problem.
Well wait for the Antec replacement to come in - who knows, you might have been with a faulty unit this whole time, and only recently did it start to fail - ie pump stopped working all together.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Heavynator*
> 
> Update on my Antec H2O 620 problem:
> My friend borrowed me his CNPS9900 MAX until I get the Antec via RMA back.
> But now I see that the temps are way better than my old Antec cooler ever hoped to be and is way more silent (even with a good fan on the radiator).
> Now I am thinking about buying the Zalman cooler instead of the Antec...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, just wanted to inform ya guys that my problem is solved atm, thx for good (and fast) support.


I used the Zalman CNPS9900 MAX until recently I changed to Antec 920. Great Air cooler. Still once I switched I had a drop of 5-6 degrees on a Q6700. I somehow managed to misplace my Zalman backplate once I was switching it out. Can't seem to find it, kind of said







. Gotta try contacting Zalman maybe they will be nice tos end me a new one for free, since its only been over a year since I bought it.
Funny thing I saw recently Zalman is a closed loop heatsynk Identical to the Antec H20 series, they ever are using the same terribad plastic backplate. Ugh...


----------



## M3TAl

They use Asetek, the same OEM. Zalman also has some really weird hybrid air/sealed water cooling system. Not sure if it's out or was just a CES demo or something.


----------



## Heavynator

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> I used the Zalman CNPS9900 MAX until recently I changed to Antec 920. Great Air cooler. Still once I switched I had a drop of 5-6 degrees on a Q6700. I somehow managed to misplace my Zalman backplate once I was switching it out. Can't seem to find it, kind of said
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Gotta try contacting Zalman maybe they will be nice tos end me a new one for free, since its only been over a year since I bought it.
> Funny thing I saw recently Zalman is a closed loop heatsynk Identical to the Antec H20 series, they ever are using the same terribad plastic backplate. Ugh...


I would say that the CNPS9900 MAX is between the Antec H2O 620 and 920.

And about the backplate... oh god, the horror, THE HORROR








It felt like this thing was GLUED to the mainboard! I needed half an hour and a hair dryer to get it off


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *hustler68*
> 
> Hi m8..
> 
> I resent them an email stating that it was still under warranty and resent the scan of the original invoice.
> 
> I had an email back withing the hour saying that there is now a 10 Euro charge for the backplate...
> 
> I also told them that all posts that i saw on this forum that concerned problems with the backplate have had their replacements replaced for free..
> 
> Obviously it looks as if im going to have to pay the 10 Euros or i cant use the 620...
> 
> Looks like I wont be buying a Kuhler in the future when I upgrade..


Hey man - JUST heard back from them (2 weeks later) - here's their email - copy and pasted:


Spoiler: Reply



Dear Sir,

Only in a few occasions we will send out parts for free.

For instance when the end-user has a box stating that it can be used with LGA 2011.
Only few people have a motherboard with LGA2011. Therefore it is not included in the original box. Saving the environment from waste thrown away by people because they can't use it.
We have special kits which enables the end-user to use our Kuhler with that particular motherboard.

We will ask for a copy from the invoice for the motherboard brand and type stated on their receipt to prevent sending the wrong parts.

Breaking and damaging parts from the Kuhler are not falling under our warranty policy. Some people have been breaking there backplate after discovering they used the wrong backplate for their motherboard after sticking it to the backside of their motherboard. The sticky pads where holding on to much.

As you can read on the below mentioned page.

http://www.antec.com/index.php?page=warranty_info&AQ=AQ3&value=en

Accessories are not falling under the warranty replacement.

When they are damaged, for instance because the end-user is installing it in a new system, we can provide replacement at minimal cost.
Unlike Antec America we, Antec Europe, need to send to all the different European countries. And each country has different sending costs.
Therefore it is possible that people from different countries pay for exactly the same item a different price.

Because the LGA 1155, in your case, has different parts, which were not included in the original package we have send them for free.
Please have a look to our Sales Order which came with the package. It says (new), because it had accessories not included in your original package.

That is the reason that we do ask a lot of copies from customers so we are almost 100% sure (ad humanam erratur) we are sending the correct items.

I hope that this explains why your website readers in many occasions need to pay for the accessories and few don't.

Best regards,

RMA Dept.

T +31-(010) 2088919 | F +31-(010) 4371752

Email [email protected] | www.antec.com
Antec Europe BV | Stuttgartstraat 12, 3047 AS Rotterdam | The Netherlands


----------



## Maximization

well that explains it


----------



## [CyGnus]

well i just tried a little idea of a very simple mod, bought some Masterkleer white tube 11/16 did a cut from top to bottom and sleeved it around the Antec tube, 5min mod and i like the result:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> well i just tried a little idea of a very simple mod, bought some Masterkiller white tube 11/16 did a cut from top to bottom and sleeved it around the Antec tube, 5min mod and i like the result:


so that's like a "sheeting" of the tubes?
You didn't actually cut the tubes at all?
Could you link the tubes you got?

I might try it for fun.


----------



## [CyGnus]

http://www.dimastech.com/EN/c/masterkleer-tubing-11-16-mm-white-uv/

I just used a x-acto to cut the white tube and put it around the stock one







add some super glue in the end on the tip of the tube to close it. Just buy 1meter is enough, i used around 25cm for each tube


----------



## SinatraFan

Looks way cool Cygnus...

But don't you think the radiator should be flipped 180 degrees? I would think that you'd want the radiator ports to be at the bottom rather than the top. Just my observation.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> http://www.dimastech.com/EN/c/masterkleer-tubing-11-16-mm-white-uv/
> 
> I just used a x-acto to cut the white tube and put it around the stock one
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> add some super glue in the end on the tip of the tube to close it. Just buy 1meter is enough, i used around 25cm for each tube


Would rep you if I could.
Thanks!









I'll add that to the "mod section" of the OP








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Looks way cool Cygnus...
> 
> But don't you think the radiator should be flipped 180 degrees? I would think that you'd want the radiator ports to be at the bottom rather than the top. Just my observation.


Indeed that's a good observation. It isn't a MUST, but it certainly help to have the res at the bottom, rather than the top, to help it flow better.


----------



## [CyGnus]

I dont like the cables with the rad flipped it looks better this way and the temps are the same


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> I dont like the cables with the rad flipped it looks better this way and the temps are the same


the cable would sit on the GPU really - meaning it would look cleaner - at least that's my opinion.
Although temps wise it shouldn't affect it - but you might notice, every now and then your PC will make "bubble noises" - and that's due to the res being on top.
I had mine on top for around a month. Didn't cause any problems, but every now and then I would hear bubble noises.
I flipped the res, noises went away, then I appreciated the look of my PC a little more too after that







!

Here's mine with the res down:
http://cdn.overclock.net/9/99/9976fd86_DSC06273.jpeg
http://cdn.overclock.net/3/32/322f5c4a_DSC06272.jpeg

This is how it looked before, with the res at the top:
http://cdn.overclock.net/5/53/53568700_DSC06165.jpeg
http://cdn.overclock.net/e/e6/e6783cf1_90.jpeg
http://cdn.overclock.net/c/c2/c26bbf17_89.jpeg
http://cdn.overclock.net/b/b4/b47d9c0c_DSC06149.jpeg


----------



## [CyGnus]

will try to flipped and see how it goes


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> will try to flipped and see how it goes


Cool beans!


----------



## [CyGnus]

Totally Dubbed done already flipped, though had to take the white tube off, it does not make those tight turns. The pump does not make any kind of noise that is for sure and before it did something so i guess its better this way thanks for the tip


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> Totally Dubbed done already flipped, though had to take the white tube off, it does not make those tight turns. The pump does not make any kind of noise that is for sure and before it did something so i guess its better this way thanks for the tip


pleasure buddy!








Quite easy to flip, and better in the long run. But no harm done for those that want to keep it the other way.


----------



## almighty15

Guys what you think of this angle on the tube for a permanent use?



You think it will cause any long term reliability problems?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Guys what you think of this angle on the tube for a permanent use?
> 
> 
> 
> You think it will cause any long term reliability problems?


that's fine - but why don;t you flip the rad/res?

Can't really tell from that picture.
Show some other ones too


----------



## SinatraFan

T Dubbed... is that Avexir Core Series Ram I see? Love it!


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> T Dubbed... is that Avexir Core Series Ram I see? Love it!


Indeed it is


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> T Dubbed... is that Avexir Core Series Ram I see? Love it!


not my pic dude haha


----------



## lordeamon

i'm planning to buy Antec Kühler H2O 620 but my problem is my case. i have a lian li q16 and it only has 1 intake (140mm fan) and 1 exhaust (psu fan). i managed to mod the case so that Antec Kühler H2O 620 cooler can fit on the front with fan adapter but i'm not sure if its going to help to decrease the temp of my a8 5600k apu since the fan for the exhaust is only 80mm with little cfm. will it be ok to make the fan of this cooler to be an intake? what will be the problem of this setup?

my specs:

cpu: a8 5600k
mobo: msi FM2-A75IA-E53
ram: 8gb ripjawsx 1866 cl9
psu: fps 300w sfx
case: lian li q16
my current temp: idle - 40c/load - 73c max

here is a pic for clarification



im planning to upgrade my apu after the release of richland to 65w tdp since im not going to overclock it. im only using it for light gaming, photoshop and web browsing. thank you


----------



## M3TAl

Considering how your setup is configured it would probably be better to have the rad fan as exhaust either push or pull, it's up to you. Wouldn't want to dump all the heat from the rad inside that tiny case with a tiny 80mm exhaust fan.


----------



## lordeamon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Considering how your setup is configured it would probably be better to have the rad fan as exhaust either push or pull, it's up to you. Wouldn't want to dump all the heat from the rad inside that tiny case with a tiny 80mm exhaust fan.


what if i change a better fan on the psu? damn, never thought i will have a problem on this case. how hot will the radiator be on a loaded cpu anyway? im now considering on puting a hole with mesh on one of its side panel but i dont know how. haha


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah that case seems problematic for liquid cooling...I would stick to air cooling if I were you.


----------



## almighty15

My Twins



920 for my 2500k and the 620 for my 7950


----------



## Maximization

A rad and a pump for each part actually sounds good


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> My Twins
> 
> 
> 
> 920 for my 2500k and the 620 for my 7950


Please do some games and benches etc on the 7950, stock cooler vs the 620. Really interested in the temp difference.


----------



## almighty15

Just cable tied it onto my Twin Frozr 3 7950 for now until my bracket get's here!!





Load temps on the stock cooler were 70-75c @ 1.1Ghz with 1.25v

Load temps with the 620 are now 40-45c @ 1.1Ghz with 1.25v

A 30c drop for a £50 investment, and the best part? Completely and utterly silent


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Sweet man!!!


----------



## M3TAl

Woah, impressive! And with zip ties







.


----------



## [CyGnus]

So guys whats the best fan performance/noise i could use with the 620 maybe a Noctua NFF12?


----------



## M3TAl

GT AP-15







. My Cougars do very, very well. Beat the stock fan and Swiftech Helix in my tests temperature wise. Swiftech wins in noise slightly. Vortex still pretty quiet.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> So guys whats the best fan performance/noise i could use with the 620 maybe a Noctua NFF12?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> GT AP-15
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My Cougars do very, very well. Beat the stock fan and Swiftech Helix in my tests temperature wise. Swiftech wins in noise slightly. Vortex still pretty quiet.


Indeed and the SP120's too


----------



## [CyGnus]

The GT AP15 are 28DBA i think that is a little too much for me though i can always connect it to a fan controller. The price difference here is about 2€ the AP 15 is cheaper then NFF12 so between these 2 what should i do? The AP15 is the better one, the Noctua has more static pressure...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> The GT AP15 are 28DBA i think that is a little too much for me though i can always connect it to a fan controller. The price difference here is about 2€ the AP 15 is cheaper then NFF12 so between these 2 what should i do? The AP15 is the better one, the Noctua has more static pressure...


Check reviews online of them being compared - that would be a better way, a more objective way of going about your purchase.


----------



## [CyGnus]

well i've been doing that and the opinions are kind of split i might go for the AP15 just because the noctua colors are


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> well i've been doing that and the opinions are kind of split i might go for the AP15 just because the noctua colors are


choose which ever you like -I chose the SP120s (quiet) and haven't regretted it


----------



## M3TAl

Will you be running them 12V full RPM? Typically most my fans sit around 1000-1200 RPM, only crank them to 12V for stress tests.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Totally Dubbed here is the result the flipped 620 and changed that 120 fan with a 60mm one since i only need to cool the VRM's (26ºc hotter without the fan) And decided not to change the 620 fan since i have a Akasa Viper


----------



## Totally Dubbed

See, isn't that more sexy?


----------



## [CyGnus]

PS: well just toke the 620 out cleaned all the dust on the rad and the vent and this time i toke the shroud (1cm) out, put the fan back on and the cooler on the case and i saw 4/5ºC lower temps in Linx not bad for a day of cleaning fans


----------



## TangoDown332

Hey can anyone help me? I am installing my Antec Kuhler 920 and my 4 mounting screw will not reach when I try to mount it on the processor, its is an AMD processor and i was supposed to use the short screws right?


----------



## SinatraFan

The short thread screws are for intel. I used my 920 for an amd chip first and it used the screws that had thinner but longer threads. Once I switched over to an 3930k, I had to change it over to the fatter shorter threaded screws. hope this helps


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> The short thread screws are for intel. I used my 920 for an amd chip first and it used the screws that had thinner but longer threads. Once I switched over to an 3930k, I had to change it over to the fatter shorter threaded screws. hope this helps


Thank you I need to put those in then!!!


----------



## TangoDown332

Is there any way to get the screws out?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TangoDown332*
> 
> Is there any way to get the screws out?


when you push out of the plastic bit - release its latch.
I think I show it in my video.


----------



## SinatraFan

Tango, I think I used a pen or something pointy to gently pry back one of the plastic clips and worked the screw out if I recall. Just take your time and you'll figure it out without breaking something.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Tango, I think I used a pen or something pointy to gently pry back one of the plastic clips and worked the screw out if I recall. Just take your time and you'll figure it out without breaking something.


I used a flat screwdriver first, then my nails as it was easier lol


----------



## TangoDown332

Well I got the right screws in but now they all dont align with the holes!!! Arrrgh!! This is rather frustrating to say the least!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TangoDown332*
> 
> Well I got the right screws in but now they all dont align with the holes!!! Arrrgh!! This is rather frustrating to say the least!!


You ought to follow my video


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TangoDown332*
> 
> Well I got the right screws in but now they all dont align with the holes!!! Arrrgh!! This is rather frustrating to say the least!!


That means you have those plastic offset fittings installed for intel instead of amd You need to flip them around

I realize that you are getting frustrated, but it does work with the AMD chip when installed properly (as I said before, I first used my 920 on a FX8150. And I think the instructions for this cooler could be a lot better, but even so, you should be able to knock this out. Just double check your work with the instructions and make sure you're looking at the AMD instructions and not the INTEL. Also, I think T Dubbed said he made a video. Perhaps you may want to check that out as well


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I used a flat screwdriver first, then my nails as it was easier lol


Come to think of it, I may have used my nails as well. It was a bit of a pain, but after figuring the first one out the other 3 were simple


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You ought to follow my video


I thought I had... evidently not lol.


----------



## target39

Do you guys know whether or not I could get the PCB for the H20 620? Mine burnt out when it got too much voltage through the 3 pin header, so I need a new one. I could probably make a custom controller for the pump, I just need to know what voltage range the pump motor magnet runs in. I already took out the liquid and tore it apart.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Never seen it before personally. And I doubt you'll be able to get it off Antec. Might be faster and cheaper to just buy another 620 - even second hand.


----------



## almighty15

Guys can I turn the pumps down on PWM? The pumps have a slight hum that I want to reduce...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Guys can I turn the pumps down on PWM? The pumps have a slight hum that I want to reduce...


You can't no, and I wouldn't suggest it.
What noise is it making - as it shouldn't be making ANY noise.


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You can't no, and I wouldn't suggest it.
> What noise is it making - as it shouldn't be making ANY noise.


Just a gentle hum.... Same noise my Laing DDC used to make...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> Just a gentle hum.... Same noise my Laing DDC used to make...


That could be your HDD spinning...
I have a hump and that's due to the HDDs


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That could be your HDD spinning...
> I have a hump and that's due to the HDDs


I only have an SSD attached currently


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Then either the pump is not working properly or your case has Vibration issues


----------



## target39

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> I only have an SSD attached currently


You may have air bubbles. Does it sound like it's trickling? If it's a slight hum that is not as loud as the stock Antec fan, you should be fine.


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> That means you have those plastic offset fittings installed for intel instead of amd You need to flip them around
> 
> I realize that you are getting frustrated, but it does work with the AMD chip when installed properly (as I said before, I first used my 920 on a FX8150. And I think the instructions for this cooler could be a lot better, but even so, you should be able to knock this out. Just double check your work with the instructions and make sure you're looking at the AMD instructions and not the INTEL. Also, I think T Dubbed said he made a video. Perhaps you may want to check that out as well


Oh he did, but like most of the videos and the instructions I found are for Intel with little or no input for AMD, I had to remove my metal processor backplate completely where the videos, which are done using the Intel chips as a base, can give you the impression that Antec plate goes around it. According to the instructions it seems that that the plastic offsets are correct I just didn't attach them correctly.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Try to tilt the case a bit to see if the air bubbles go back to the rad (in case it could be that).
Dont expect the 620/920 to be 100% silent cause its kind of impossible the pump has to work so it will do some kind of noise.


----------



## par

is there anyone who has disassembled one of these kits?

I thought to lap the base of my antec h2o 920 .. and saw that It void the warranty, I thinking also about a changing fluid and fill the circuit better .. is it easy to do?

I read that by removing the screws that are based on the wb, the wb comes off and the liquid can escape from them .. so I could empty it and fill it, by removing only the wb?

thnxxxxxxxxxx


----------



## Totally Dubbed

There is. Check the op mod section, maybe that will help


----------



## par

Thank you. I took a look. I think I will do only lapping


----------



## infini

I have just bought a Noctua NF-F12 to replace the Antec stock fan. My motherboard is the Asus Sabertooth 990FX which has 4 CHA_FAN connectors, one CPU_FAN connector and one CPU_OPT connector. The problem is that the Noctua has a 4-pin clip while the Antec fan’s power clip has 3pins. How should i connect the Noctua fan with the Kühler?


----------



## [CyGnus]

connect it to the board no problem, i dont have any fan connected on the cooler i have a fan controller and have them their , zero issues


----------



## M3TAl

Lapping won't void the warranty, this was stated by an Antec rep on another forum when these kits first released. Dissembling would void warranty though.


----------



## AstralReaper

2 quick questions for you guys here.
I have had a 620 in push/pull since late 2011. I plan to do a good cleaning to the rad and was wondering if I should replace the stock TIM. I have some MX-4 I could use but if it's worse then I will just leave it the way it is.
I have also seen some of you take the 620/920 apart and used it for a custom loop. Would a older 620 still be good to do this with? I'm thinking 2gpus/1cpu with a dual 120mm + the stock 620 rad all in Push/Pull.


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> 2 quick questions for you guys here.
> I have had a 620 in push/pull since late 2011. I plan to do a good cleaning to the rad and was wondering if I should replace the stock TIM. I have some MX-4 I could use but if it's worse then I will just leave it the way it is.
> I have also seen some of you take the 620/920 apart and used it for a custom loop. Would a older 620 still be good to do this with? I'm thinking 2gpus/1cpu with a dual 120mm + the stock 620 rad.


The MX4 will give you better temps


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> The MX4 will give you better temps


+1 on that.
Simply due to the way you spread it.
Use a line or pea sized method when applying MX4.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AstralReaper*
> 
> 2 quick questions for you guys here.
> I have had a 620 in push/pull since late 2011. I plan to do a good cleaning to the rad and was wondering if I should replace the stock TIM. I have some MX-4 I could use but if it's worse then I will just leave it the way it is.
> I have also seen some of you take the 620/920 apart and used it for a custom loop. Would a older 620 still be good to do this with? I'm thinking 2gpus/1cpu with a dual 120mm + the stock 620 rad all in Push/Pull.


Really don't think the 620 pump could handle all those blocks. With another pump added in though...


----------



## infini

Cygnus you mean connecting the 4 pin of the Noctua directly to the CPU_FAN connector or the CHA_FAN connector? And if i connect it to the CPU_FAN where should i connect the 3 pin heat-sink power connector which was connected to the CPU_FAN connector when the stock Antec fan was used?


----------



## [CyGnus]

I have my 620 (pump) connected directly to the PSU with a molex fan adapter and the fan connector that the 620 has i dont have anything attached to it.


----------



## nukedathlonman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini*
> 
> Cygnus you mean connecting the 4 pin of the Noctua directly to the CPU_FAN connector or the CHA_FAN connector? And if i connect it to the CPU_FAN where should i connect the 3 pin heat-sink power connector which was connected to the CPU_FAN connector when the stock Antec fan was used?


Yes, connect the fan directly to the mobo header. Then the pump can be hooked up to the 12v line off the PSU via a molex to three pin fan connector.


----------



## AstralReaper

Alright guys. I finished cleaning my 620 and I wanted to double check my temps. FX-4100 at 4.7Ghz at full load with Prime95 and I am at 50-53C. I didn't check my temps before doing this but I remember it being lower than that. Just want to check with you all and see if I used the MX-4 right.


----------



## M3TAl

Well was the ambient temp the same? And how did you apply the MX-4? Arctic Cooling recommends not spreading it, just use a small dot in the middle. I use MX-2 btw.


----------



## AstralReaper

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well was the ambient temp the same? And how did you apply the MX-4? Arctic Cooling recommends not spreading it, just use a small dot in the middle. I use MX-2 btw.


I used a pea size but I might not have used enough. Also I might not have cleaned the cpu block well enough. Under gaming it seems fine. Right around the low 40Cs I remember it being. Will see what time does to it. Might get better temps after it sits for a bit.


----------



## M3TAl

A pea size is usually more than enough. It should be fine.


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> *Lapping won't void the warranty, this was stated by an Antec rep on another forum* when these kits first released. Dissembling would void warranty though.


it's wonderful! link?


----------



## [CyGnus]

A pea size is actually more then enough half of that would be alright. I use this method a lot and i found it to be the best (for me) put a bit of paste in the CPU then cover your finger with a bit of a plastic bag then spread it over the IHS until its all covered up


----------



## infini

I decided to attach the 3 pin heat-sink power connector connected to the CPU_FAN connector and the Noctua power connector to the CHA_FAN.


----------



## [CyGnus]

infini if you can connect that to the PSU with a molex adapter 12v -> 3pin


----------



## infini

What will be the difference if i connect the 3 pin heat-sink power connector straight to the molex adaptor?


----------



## [CyGnus]

The pump will be working at 100% for you to have the best performance out of the cooler, and you dont push the board 3 pin to far i guess the pump uses a bit of power more then a normal fan


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Spread method has been proven to be the worst method to use. Never spread it.


----------



## [CyGnus]

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Spread method has been proven to be the worst method to use. Never spread it.


Did not know that, for me it worked fine so who cares...







(I did not use that method since i use Cool laborotory pro now)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *[CyGnus]*
> 
> Did not know that, for me it worked fine so who cares...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I did not use that method since i use Cool laborotory pro now)


Ah yes CLU uses spread method.
Temp gains from CLU are only 1-2c and a pain to remove on the IHS - so I never bothered with it.
I got CLU on the die though


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> it's wonderful! link?


Here it is.
Quote:


> Dear m00moo,
> 
> This will be no problem as long it does not cause any warranty claims that can be connected to the lapping.
> 
> Best regards,
> 
> ANTECsupport


In other words as long as the lapping doesn't cause any damage then you still have warranty.


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> That means you have those plastic offset fittings installed for intel instead of amd You need to flip them around
> 
> I realize that you are getting frustrated, but it does work with the AMD chip when installed properly (as I said before, I first used my 920 on a FX8150. And I think the instructions for this cooler could be a lot better, but even so, you should be able to knock this out. Just double check your work with the instructions and make sure you're looking at the AMD instructions and not the INTEL. Also, I think T Dubbed said he made a video. Perhaps you may want to check that out as well


Ok, at the risk of annoyance, I have to ask what are the offset fittings again? I still cannot get this thing in two holes line up perfectly but the other two wont. I know I have the AMD piece because the other one is not anywhere close to fitting over top, and before anyone asks I have not been working on this since my last post on this because of work and sleep for work. Also, I have watched the video like 4 times before writing this along with reading the instructions, and I am apparently missing something because the lightbulb has still not switched on.


----------



## SinatraFan

OK,,,

As I recall, when I first used it on my AMD board with a FX-8150 chip:

1) I removed the fan bracket that was installed on my MSI MOBO.

2) I put the 2 adhesive strips on the rectangular plastic back plate that came with H20

3) Installed the metal nuts into the back plate

4) Installed the back plate to the back side of the MOBO

5) when you assemble the pump fastener ring, make sure the plastic bits are installed correctly, I believe this is where you will run into the alignment problems. because there is 2 plastic pieces that snap together for each screw and they are offset. You have to refer to the manual to determine which way they should be installed. If I recall, the offset should be towards the outside for all 4 corners pushing the screws outward.

6) after assembling the screw clips and you install the screws, then put the metal ring over the pump and from the other side, snap the plastic ring into the metal ring, THIS REQUIRES A BIT OF EFFORT TO DO

7) Then at that point, you should be ready to set the pump on top of the CPU and screw the screws into the back plate I STARTED THE OPPOSITE HOLES FIRST, IT TOOK A BIT OF EFFORT BUT IT WORKED FINE.



Look at this picture from the ANTEC manual. you need to make sure that the clips are installed in such a way that the screws are furthest away from the pump

Clear as mud???









Hope this helps.


----------



## nukedathlonman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *infini*
> 
> I decided to attach the 3 pin heat-sink power connector connected to the CPU_FAN connector and the Noctua power connector to the CHA_FAN.


The only possible issue is the pump's speed will speed up and slow down based on CPU temp, but the fan may or may not vary it's speed (most likely run flat out) and will be based on the chassis temp instead of CPU temp. But if it works fine, then great!


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> OK,,,
> 
> As I recall, when I first used it on my AMD board with a FX-8150 chip:
> 
> 1) I removed the fan bracket that was installed on my MSI MOBO.
> 
> 2) I put the 2 adhesive strips on the rectangular plastic back plate that came with H20
> 
> 3) Installed the metal nuts into the back plate
> 
> 4) Installed the back plate to the back side of the MOBO
> 
> 5) when you assemble the pump fastener ring, make sure the plastic bits are installed correctly, I believe this is where you will run into the alignment problems. because there is 2 plastic pieces that snap together for each screw and they are offset. You have to refer to the manual to determine which way they should be installed. If I recall, the offset should be towards the outside for all 4 corners pushing the screws outward.
> 
> 6) after assembling the screw clips and you install the screws, then put the metal ring over the pump and from the other side, snap the plastic ring into the metal ring, THIS REQUIRES A BIT OF EFFORT TO DO
> 
> 7) Then at that point, you should be ready to set the pump on top of the CPU and screw the screws into the back plate I STARTED THE OPPOSITE HOLES FIRST, IT TOOK A BIT OF EFFORT BUT IT WORKED FINE.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at this picture from the ANTEC manual. you need to make sure that the clips are installed in such a way that the screws are furthest away from the pump
> 
> Clear as mud???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


Thanks!!! I finally got it in lol, only to find that my monitor decided to die on me, so now I dont know whether or not my PC posted. Clear as mud, indeed!


----------



## M3TAl

TangoDown332, does your GA-970A-D3 have VRM heatsinks?!?! *Highly* recommended to put some heatsinks on those VRM's if you're overclocking that FX-8150.


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Here it is.
> In other words as long as the lapping doesn't cause any damage then you still have warranty.


nice! this is to be added in the opening post!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'll add the amd post and that to the op when I get in front of my pc


----------



## TangoDown332

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> TangoDown332, does your GA-970A-D3 have VRM heatsinks?!?! *Highly* recommended to put some heatsinks on those VRM's if you're overclocking that FX-8150.


Sorry for the confusion, this installation is on a totally new build, I now have a Asus Crosshair V Formula Z mobo and an FX-8350. And if memory serves it does have heatsinks. I just haven't gotten around to adding the new rig.


----------



## SinatraFan

Glad to hear you got it going. Hope I was able to help.


----------



## TangoDown332

Yeah, you were an amazing help!! I just need to get monitor, so I can get my PC to post.


----------



## SinatraFan




----------



## inedenimadam

Just a heads up...

Microcenter has the 620's on sale for 49.99.

I almost picked a couple up, but I wanted to do a little more reading about using them as GPU cooling units.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Here it is.
> In other words as long as the lapping doesn't cause any damage then you still have warranty.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> OK,,,
> 
> As I recall, when I first used it on my AMD board with a FX-8150 chip:
> 
> 1) I removed the fan bracket that was installed on my MSI MOBO.
> 
> 2) I put the 2 adhesive strips on the rectangular plastic back plate that came with H20
> 
> 3) Installed the metal nuts into the back plate
> 
> 4) Installed the back plate to the back side of the MOBO
> 
> 5) when you assemble the pump fastener ring, make sure the plastic bits are installed correctly, I believe this is where you will run into the alignment problems. because there is 2 plastic pieces that snap together for each screw and they are offset. You have to refer to the manual to determine which way they should be installed. If I recall, the offset should be towards the outside for all 4 corners pushing the screws outward.
> 
> 6) after assembling the screw clips and you install the screws, then put the metal ring over the pump and from the other side, snap the plastic ring into the metal ring, THIS REQUIRES A BIT OF EFFORT TO DO
> 
> 7) Then at that point, you should be ready to set the pump on top of the CPU and screw the screws into the back plate I STARTED THE OPPOSITE HOLES FIRST, IT TOOK A BIT OF EFFORT BUT IT WORKED FINE.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at this picture from the ANTEC manual. you need to make sure that the clips are installed in such a way that the screws are furthest away from the pump
> 
> Clear as mud???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.






Those two are now included in the OP


----------



## M3TAl

TangoDown332, Forumla Z is a beast motherboard, you're good to go







.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Just a heads up...
> 
> Microcenter has the 620's on sale for 49.99.
> 
> I almost picked a couple up, but I wanted to do a little more reading about using them as GPU cooling units.


I've been looking into this a lot as well, it's typically a 20-30C temp reduction over stock GPU coolers. Also some GPU's require a copper shime between the GPU chip and kuhler cold plate (7950/7970 I believe and some 600 series nvidia cards) because the chip is recessed below some metal surrounding the chip.

Nice TD


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> TangoDown332, Forumla Z is a beast motherboard, you're good to go
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Just a heads up...
> 
> Microcenter has the 620's on sale for 49.99.
> 
> I almost picked a couple up, but I wanted to do a little more reading about using them as GPU cooling units.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been looking into this a lot as well, it's typically a 20-30C temp reduction over stock GPU coolers. Also some GPU's require a copper shime between the GPU chip and kuhler cold plate (7950/7970 I believe and some 600 series nvidia cards) because the chip is recessed below some metal surrounding the chip.
> 
> Nice TD
Click to expand...

Sounds like I will need the shims then








At 50 bucks I might give it a shot anyway, but I will still need to figure something out for VRM and Memory.


----------



## sparkeyjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> OK,,,
> 
> As I recall, when I first used it on my AMD board with a FX-8150 chip:
> 
> 1) I removed the fan bracket that was installed on my MSI MOBO.
> 
> 2) I put the 2 adhesive strips on the rectangular plastic back plate that came with H20
> 
> 3) Installed the metal nuts into the back plate
> 
> 4) Installed the back plate to the back side of the MOBO
> 
> 5) when you assemble the pump fastener ring, make sure the plastic bits are installed correctly, I believe this is where you will run into the alignment problems. because there is 2 plastic pieces that snap together for each screw and they are offset. You have to refer to the manual to determine which way they should be installed. If I recall, the offset should be towards the outside for all 4 corners pushing the screws outward.
> 
> 6) after assembling the screw clips and you install the screws, then put the metal ring over the pump and from the other side, snap the plastic ring into the metal ring, THIS REQUIRES A BIT OF EFFORT TO DO
> 
> 7) Then at that point, you should be ready to set the pump on top of the CPU and screw the screws into the back plate I STARTED THE OPPOSITE HOLES FIRST, IT TOOK A BIT OF EFFORT BUT IT WORKED FINE.
> 
> 
> 
> Look at this picture from the ANTEC manual. you need to make sure that the clips are installed in such a way that the screws are furthest away from the pump
> 
> Clear as mud???
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope this helps.


I own the AMD version of the 920 cooler and I found that with my Athlon II x4 that I had to do away with the plastic parts as they held the screws to far away from the bottom plate.
The plastic upper portion of the thumb screws have a bottom lip that fits right into the slot in the hold down bracket. So if your having trouble getting the screws down into the bottom plate below the motherboard just toss the plastic parts fit the lip of the thumb screws into the slot and slowly adjust the tension to the CPU per the instructions.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *inedenimadam*
> 
> Sounds like I will need the shims then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 50 bucks I might give it a shot anyway, but I will still need to figure something out for VRM and Memory.


Shims are only $2-4 but if you will be using the 7850 it doesn't require a shim, just 7950's and 7970's.

To better explain/show how a shim is required for some GPU's look at this pic from EK Waterblocks.


So you would put thermal paste between shim and GPU then paste the waterblock and shim. From what I've read shims don't affect temps at all or only very slightly.


----------



## Rosco321

Quick question, how does the orientation of the rad for the 920 affect performance if at all and is there any specific orientation that should be used. I am trying to get some info on this because I will be getting a Thermaltake water 2.0 Pro soon ( wanted the 920 couldn't get it this was next best ) and I want to mount the rad upside down if at all possible.

I am asking here because from what I can gather both the 920 and the water 2.0 Pro are mare by Asetek so I am assuming what is relevant to the 920 will be relevant to the water 2.0 Pro.

Thanks in advance


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey man, the position of the rad or res won't affect performance in all honesty, however it is recommended, to avoid bubbles, to have it facing down, thus not against gravity - as it might have bubble noises down the line (for short periods of time)


----------



## Rosco321

So the only possible downside to an upside down mounted rad is water noise from time to time (Possible water noise)? No performance issues?


----------



## M3TAl

Cooling performance will not change depending on rad position.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Rosco321*
> 
> So the only possible downside to an upside down mounted rad is water noise from time to time (Possible water noise)? No performance issues?


I will say if every H2O is magically topped off perfectly and there is almost no air then yes, you're right, but WHY TAKE THE CHANCE? I would say because the system is in solid tubing with NO windows, you would never really know if there are air bubbles with the exception of the pump noise. I say that you should always try to mount it in any position EXCEPT with the tubes on top. But that's just me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah I had mine running for a month rad up. No performance difference, apart from the occasional and rare bubble noise








This should apply to most all in one solutions


----------



## anon31337

Folks, the new V4 Antec Kuhler 920 uses "ChillControl VI" - not compatible with ChillControl V, which older Kuhler 920's use.

I'm pleased to announce that V4 support is in Beta @ sourceforge, download the latest code via sourceforge. No binaries at this time, coming soon.


----------



## M3TAl

What's the deal with these V4 kuhlers? Keep hearing about them but don't know anything about them. Are they out already? If not when will they be? And what's new with the V4's?


----------



## anon31337

V4's have a "split flow" radiator, a higher pressure pump, and can have multiple [up to 6] different threshold settings.

ie: while the V1-V3 has a start and full fan setting, ChillControl V6 has 6 different points where temperature, and fan RPM % can be set.


----------



## anon31337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What's the deal with these V4 kuhlers? Keep hearing about them but don't know anything about them. Are they out already? If not when will they be? And what's new with the V4's?


V4's have a "split flow" radiator, a higher pressure pump, and can have multiple [up to 6] different threshold settings.

ie: while the V1-V3 has a start and full fan setting, ChillControl V6 has 6 different points where temperature, and fan RPM % can be set.


----------



## M3TAl

Ok so have these V4 been released?


----------



## anon31337

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ok so have these V4 been released?


Looks like it. The V4 driver was reverse-engineered with the help of someone who has one in the field.


----------



## Beliar

I just got an RMA replacement from Antec, brand new Kuhler 620.

But i guess it's a new version aswell. Looks a bit differently, radiator i thicker, pump has more RPM. Uhm, wierd, new version or smth?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quite interesting!


----------



## M3TAl

Btw Kuhler club guys/gals, I purchased a 920 from OCN Marketplace yesterday







. So now I've got a 620 and 920







.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha nice!


----------



## M3TAl

The price was too amazing to pass up. My plan is to sometime get a 7870 XT and put the 620 on it, 920 on CPU.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm tempted to get a 620 for my gpu too ...


----------



## M3TAl

Look for some deals on 620's on the marketplace. But considering you're in UK it's a more limited market unfortunately


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's the thing. Much more limited


----------



## featherlouis199

I love my 620 it's amazing!







Nice and quiet and temps haven't gone above 49 degrees or so, as of yet


----------



## M3TAl

So TD wants to buy your 620 featherlouis199.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hahaha


----------



## featherlouis199

I don't get what's funny here...:s


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Btw Kuhler club guys/gals, I purchased a 920 from OCN Marketplace yesterday
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So now I've got a 620 and 920
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


That was definitely a good deal, I want to put my 620 on my GPU when I get a new CPU cooler and OC my GPU get some more performance out of it. I will wait to see how you do on getting the 620 on your gpu before I try it, unless anyone else has tried it?


----------



## M3TAl

Many people have tried it.


----------



## Beliar

Im gonna sell my brand new 620 V4 from RMA cause i have nothing to do with it


----------



## M3TAl

What's the shipping like to the UK? I know Totally Dubbed wants it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What's the shipping like to the UK? I know Totally Dubbed wants it.


hehe yes








Although I'll have to think where to put the rad...


----------



## M3TAl

My plan for the GPU and 620 is exhaust... Don't need to be dumping all the heat from the GPU and CPU into the case. GPU will be rear exhaust. I guess VRM and memory heat will still dissipate into the case though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My plan for the GPU and 620 is exhaust... Don't need to be dumping all the heat from the GPU and CPU into the case. GPU will be rear exhaust. I guess VRM and memory heat will still dissipate into the case though.


I guess in my case it would either be side mounted to top mounted...but this might be a problem.


----------



## Lunatic24_7

Ok...I need to ask a question.
What was your original temperature @ stock speeds (prior to over-clocking) or did you record it?

My new rig..and it AIN'T over-clocked...is averaging 14 deg. C. At start -up it will sit @ 9 deg.C for a few minutes

I'm curious as I know over-clocking obviously exacerbates the heat issues but I'm intrigued by the variance of temps in case-enclosures

I'm willing to bet that the initial cpu temps (pre-O'/C) are initially high anyway due to a proper lack of ventilation which is why the Antec Lan-boy AIr is so impressive in the over-all scheme of things.

Before I built my 3 week-old rig, I researched every aspect of cooling for both the cpu and case.
And chose every part carefully regardless of the cost versus quality issues.

People will remark that an Antec Lan-Boy Air case combined with an Antec 920 is too noisy...but i disagree.

(A brief back-ground to myself)
I'm a qualified electronic engineer with a back-ground in alarms (noise level) and micro computer technology.
I can tell you now...The Antec case (even with an extra eight fans as well as the two provided for the 920) creates virtually no sound at 800 rpm via an Aerocool V12XT controller and the other fans sit at minimum speed (Antec Tri-Cool Fans) makes much less noise than my previous Dragon platform rig (see Rigs)

I can only surmise that people with sensitive hearing are the ones that are reviewing the Antec gear.

It works perfectly and I cant wait to overclock this Beast!


----------



## M3TAl

9-14C??? That's not even possible unless your ambient temp is like 0-8C. Is it 0C in that room?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's what I was thinking. Either it's really cold, or those readings aren't right. Temp wise on stock I was around 50-60c on full load


----------



## M3TAl

Btw, my 920 is here but who knows when the Dwood bracket will get here. The 920 will continue to sit until all the necessary parts get here.

Was thinking maybe I should do another video and literally put the mic right on top of the pump... Ran it with the test psu and she was just as quiet as the 620.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Btw, my 920 is here but who knows when the Dwood bracket will get here. The 920 will continue to sit until all the necessary parts get here.
> 
> Was thinking maybe I should do another video and literally put the mic right on top of the pump... Ran it with the test psu and she was just as quiet as the 620.


yeah the pump of both shouldn't really be any different.
The main differences of the 620 and 920 is rad, software, res, fans


----------



## M3TAl

Speaking of the software, can you control any PWM fans with it? Or does it only work well with the stock Antec fans which I won't be using?


----------



## Lunatic24_7

I live in Ireland and it ain't the hottest of countries at the best of times. I have no special cooling in the room other than a ceiling Fan (which rarely goes on)....I tried a couple of Hardware Monitoring Appz but Open Hardware monitor is the only one that seem to work fully. CPUID doesn't seem to read anything other than the HDD and SDD temps and Real Temp cant currently handle my processor...So if there's an app you could recommend, I'll gladly try it to get a second opinion on the temps.

http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/Lunatic24_7/2013-05-24220004.jpg
http://i689.photobucket.com/albums/vv255/Lunatic24_7/2013-05-24222243.jpg


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Speaking of the software, can you control any PWM fans with it? Or does it only work well with the stock Antec fans which I won't be using?


I think you would be able to control ANY 4 pin PWN fans.
However I have 3 pin SP120's on it, so the software isn't even installed on my PC atm lol.
Liquid temperature is the only useful thing for me - but even at that point, I don't really care about the liquid temp as long as the core temps are fine


----------



## M3TAl

Think I'll try the software, will help free up the Aerocool X-vision for more case fans.


----------



## Lunatic24_7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 9-14C??? That's not even possible unless your ambient temp is like 0-8C. Is it 0C in that room?


I got my hands on AIDA 64 and that has confirmed the temps of Open Hardware Monitor....so IT IS POSSIBLE!

Temp Capture.PNG 261k .PNG file


----------



## M3TAl

Then something is seriously screwed up with your sensors in the CPU or there is a bug with the BIOS or something. Against the laws of physics...


----------



## nukedathlonman

Try a thermal gun or a thermal pointer if you want to be really sure of your temps.


----------



## EarlZ

How long are the tubes on the 920 ?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Top of my head, I would guess at around 20cm, possibly a little longer


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> How long are the tubes on the 920 ?


Since I have one right here on my bed, let me measure it. BRB

EDIT: Longer than the ruler... Around 13 inches I would say


----------



## almighty15

My DWood bracket finally arrived...... 4 weeks 3 days after ordering it....



Twin Frozr 3 7950 Boost Edition running a custom BIOS with high voltage and powertune...

With an antec 620 with Arctic Cooling F12 PWM fans in push/pull the core bounces between 58/59c when running MSI Kombuster...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Since I have one right here on my bed, let me measure it. BRB
> 
> EDIT: Longer than the ruler... Around 13 inches I would say


That's what she said.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *almighty15*
> 
> My DWood bracket finally arrived...... 4 weeks 3 days after ordering it....
> 
> 
> 
> Twin Frozr 3 7950 Boost Edition running a custom BIOS with high voltage and powertune...
> 
> With an antec 620 with Arctic Cooling F12 PWM fans in push/pull the core bounces between 58/59c when running MSI Kombuster...


is that on full load? My gtx660ti hits 70-80c 24/7 folding. That's with its fans at 30-40%
@100% fan speed my temps are never higher 60c


----------



## almighty15

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> s that on full load? My gtx660ti hits 70-80c 24/7 folding. That's with its fans at 30-40%
> @100% fan speed my temps are never higher 60c


Run MSI Kombuster and you'll run hotter then 60c..... I'm also running much higher voltages then a stock card due to a custom BIOS...

With the stock BIOS at the same clock speed the core never goes above 46c


----------



## M3TAl

Also a 660ti has much lower tdp than a 7950... meaning it puts out less heat. Ordered Dwood bracket on the 20th, guess I can expect 4 weeks plus as well. Great


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I have run it. Doesn't run that hot - folding for a while gets it hotter.


----------



## EarlZ

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *EarlZ*
> 
> How long are the tubes on the 920 ?
> 
> 
> 
> Since I have one right here on my bed, let me measure it. BRB
> 
> EDIT: Longer than the ruler... Around 13 inches I would say
Click to expand...

Thanks!

Is anyone here using two Kuhler 920's? Im wondering if the software can control both at the same time or does the unit have some sort of memory to store the profiles or something? Because I will be using two of them if I cant get my hands on two 620's


----------



## Maximization

stupid question
i updated my bios, was able to pull off a stable overclock past 5.0 GHZ, but my liquied tempurture is now lower then my CPU temp, is that ok? It use to be when i past 5.0 my liquid temp would alwasy be higher them cpu temp buy 2-4 degress, now its reveresed.


----------



## stavroz

Ive got a strange issue with my kuhler 920 that i hope someone can help me cause its driving me insane!

ive just upgraded to windows 8.

The driver and chill control 1.2 installs fine but the temp it reads from the CPU reads around 25c at all times.
if i test it with a CPU burn in tool, the temp on CC does not rise so the fan does not ramp up.
but if i use motherboard monitor i can see the temp rising on the CPU to dangerous levels.
i can control the fan and LEDS with CC fine so the driver seems ok.
in effect it seems that CC is reading the temp from somewhere else?

ive tried reinstalling with ccleaner. connecting the usb to another port after removing the driver.

all to no avail.

heeeelp.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> stupid question
> i updated my bios, was able to pull off a stable overclock past 5.0 GHZ, but my liquied tempurture is now lower then my CPU temp, is that ok? It use to be when i past 5.0 my liquid temp would alwasy be higher them cpu temp buy 2-4 degress, now its reveresed.


To me that's "normal"
My liquid temperature never went above 40c or so, yet my CPU temps were at 90c lol.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stavroz*
> 
> Ive got a strange issue with my kuhler 920 that i hope someone can help me cause its driving me insane!
> 
> ive just upgraded to windows 8.
> 
> The driver and chill control 1.2 installs fine but the temp it reads from the CPU reads around 25c at all times.
> if i test it with a CPU burn in tool, the temp on CC does not rise so the fan does not ramp up.
> but if i use motherboard monitor i can see the temp rising on the CPU to dangerous levels.
> i can control the fan and LEDS with CC fine so the driver seems ok.
> in effect it seems that CC is reading the temp from somewhere else?
> 
> ive tried reinstalling with ccleaner. connecting the usb to another port after removing the driver.
> 
> all to no avail.
> 
> heeeelp.


Seems like something is not quite working.
FYI: the temps on CC is your LIQUID temperature.
It should NOT be confused with your CPU temps.
Use core temp or real temp, to monitor your CPU temps.

First check that, and once you have figured out your real CPU temps, then start worrying about the liquid temp, ramp speeds and custom profiles.


----------



## M3TAl

Hey 920 owners I've got a question. Is the USB cable long enough for most avg mid-tower cases to run behind the mobo tray and out to the USB header?

Did some doodling in paint to show what I mean. Tired of waiting for Dwood bracket for the gpu so might just go ahead and install the 920 on cpu.


----------



## Maximization

i had to buy a cable extender


----------



## M3TAl

Didn't want to hear that









Edit: Yours is a full tower though right? There may be hope.


----------



## Maximization

you can just run it in front without running it behind, i did that but i got a second vid card and was forced to get the extender.


----------



## Maximization

they have a thread up allready but i am not impressed with the new generation

http://www.techpowerup.com/184985/antec-k-hler-h2o-1250-and-650-innovate-with-fans.html

your forced to have the pump and fan work at same rpm.

i like maximum water flow all the time with fan speed getting adjusted as needed.

of course i should hold judgement until reviews come out, instead of just basing opinion off a picture.


----------



## M3TAl

I haven't yet looked at the new Kuhler's but if the pumps are actually of decently high flow then lowering it is a very minimal impact on temps. Were talking like 1C.

Edit: after looking at that link... WTH? Antec what are you thinking? The pump is literally part of the fan? Interesting design that's for sure but what? Basically we have no choice in changing fans or anything? Seems really locked down.


----------



## Maximization

i agree M3T


----------



## M3TAl

Oh ya, just remembered I made a new video yesterday for pump noise. TD you can replace the one in OP with this one if you think it's better and sorry I'm still a crappy camera man. Also don't make fun of my sexy voice


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Didn't want to hear that
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Yours is a full tower though right? There may be hope.


Actually mine runs BEHIND my case too - I got a Fractal R4 (so mid tower) and the Antec 920.
Runs perfectly fine all the way at the back (entering from the top and coming back into the "mobo" from the bottom)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Oh ya, just remembered I made a new video yesterday for pump noise. TD you can replace the one in OP with this one if you think it's better and sorry I'm still a crappy camera man. Also don't make fun of my sexy voice


I'll leave your old one in (unless you don't want it, or choose to delete it) AND add this one too!
Thanks a lot for adding content!
+rep


----------



## M3TAl

Did you see the link Max linked for the new Kuhler 650/1250? So disappointing









Actually about to shutdown system right now and remove the 620 for the 920. Luckily my backup comp is in the room I'll be working in.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Did you see the link Max linked for the new Kuhler 650/1250? So disappointing
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Actually about to shutdown system right now and remove the 620 for the 920. Luckily my backup comp is in the room I'll be working in.


wow just saw it, I ignored it beforehand as I was just replying to comments.
Disappointed myself. Who knows - might bring a great improvement in temps? I don't see how though.


----------



## M3TAl

Oh boy. I'm exhausted. Just finished putting the 920 in. Took way way longer than anticipated but I fixed/changed a lot of other things while I was in there. USB cable just reached the header.

Will post pics after some sleep. Also do temp comparison to 620. Ran some 20 min IBT runs 2 days ago and saved all the temps. Also tried a different TIM application method I've never used. Went with the X method. When removing the 620 the application seemed pretty poor (used dot in middle guess didn't use enough?).

Hating those 650/1250's due to the fact the pump is literally part of the fan... Meaning we can't change/remove the stock fans. Disappoint


----------



## Maximization

Yeah that is what I am thinking too, they are making it difficult to customize, I am wondering if you are going to get a greater chance for leaks, the vibration from the fan is right near the seals on the pump


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Oh boy. I'm exhausted. Just finished putting the 920 in. Took way way longer than anticipated but I fixed/changed a lot of other things while I was in there. USB cable just reached the header.
> 
> Will post pics after some sleep. Also do temp comparison to 620. Ran some 20 min IBT runs 2 days ago and saved all the temps. Also tried a different TIM application method I've never used. Went with the X method. When removing the 620 the application seemed pretty poor (used dot in middle guess didn't use enough?).
> 
> Hating those 650/1250's due to the fact the pump is literally part of the fan... Meaning we can't change/remove the stock fans. Disappoint


I used the mini-line method - works charms for me!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Yeah that is what I am thinking too, they are making it difficult to customize, I am wondering if you are going to get a greater chance for leaks, the vibration from the fan is right near the seals on the pump


Swiftech is calling, and I would have thought Antec would have gone the more "open-ended" approach - but they have done exactly the opposite...


----------



## M3TAl

Seems like they think they solved problems by keeping pump noise always in-tune with fan speed/noise but why not just let us adjust them separately?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Seems like they think they solved problems by keeping pump noise always in-tune with fan speed/noise but why not just let us adjust them separately?


Honestly no idea!


----------



## M3TAl

Here's the temp tests 620 vs 920 adjusted to ambient. Also all the pics during install are below.










Spoiler: Various Pics!





Put some foam on the bottom of the rad to reduce vibration in the 5.25" bay


----------



## Maximization

i gave a rep
nice graphs


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nice comparisons man!


----------



## SinatraFan

I'm running a 3930k with my H20 920 with an ambient room temp of 29 degrees. Is CPU temp of 41-46 good for now? I just blew out the radiator as it started to get clogged with dust and the temps now are about 41-44. The 6 - monitor setup does warm my office up a bit and over the last few days, the fans have been ramping up a bit. So I blew out the dust but want to make sure I'm good. I'm thinking its good but thought I would ask the group here.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I'm running a 3930k with my H20 920 with an ambient room temp of 29 degrees. Is CPU temp of 41-46 good for now? I just blew out the radiator as it started to get clogged with dust and the temps now are about 41-44. The 6 - monitor setup does warm my office up a bit and over the last few days, the fans have been ramping up a bit. So I blew out the dust but want to make sure I'm good. I'm thinking its good but thought I would ask the group here.


46c is that on LOAD? or idle?
For idle that's a bit higher than expected.


----------



## Seid Dark

I wonder what could be good way to fix resonance noise with Antec 620. Radiator is mounted to the back 120mm fan slot in my Fractal Arc case. At first I thought the noise was from hard drives but unplugging them didn't help. I can hear this resonance over my low rpm case fans. After watching some Youtube videos I don't think this is the awful pump noise issue that people have reported about but it's still little annoying though. Maybe some kind of rubber fan mount kit for the radiator could help?



Edit: Now I'm starting to think that it's just normal pump noise, if I want to have something silent I have to go back to air.


----------



## Seid Dark

double post :/


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 46c is that on LOAD? or idle?
> For idle that's a bit higher than expected.


it's running steady at 41.1 right now.... and that's with my trading software running all 6 screens.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> it's running steady at 41.1 right now.... and that's with my trading software running all 6 screens.


well that's extremely good then!


----------



## spikezone2004

I had a little scare with my 620 last night. I moved my radiator to a different position and booted up and loud noise from my 620! looked at my temps my cpu went up to 97c fast so i shut down immediately.

My guess was the pump wasnt getting water and I thought it may have leaked out or something, all I did was move the radiator position.

But the noise and the temps were enough to put a little scare in me. after I got it working again my temps are almost 10c better in the new position on some of the tests I did so im pretty stoked.

31c idle overclocked 1 ghz I think its pretty good


----------



## M3TAl

Really weird though. There should never be a point where the pump gets no water at all... Just really odd.

Somehow water got trapped in the radiator/reservoir? Just odd... air bubbles should be in the res but not to the point the pump gets starved of water.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Really weird though. There should never be a point where the pump gets no water at all... Just really odd.
> 
> Somehow water got trapped in the radiator/reservoir? Just odd... air bubbles should be in the res but not to the point the pump gets starved of water.


My only guess is that it could of had a air bubble and when i moved the radiator it slid the air bubble to the cpu block, also I havent moved it for a long time, I had it on intake in the back where there is no dust filter.

I took the fans off and dusted it so that could also be helping with the better temperatures I can post my results. I tested before after 1300rpm and 1700rpm.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah that does sound very odd.
I must say some motherboards have had trouble "powering" the antecs and thus sometimes it comes down to the USB header that's in use.


----------



## spikezone2004

It was definitely getting power it was making a very loud noise, at first I thought it was a cable hitting a fan blade thats how loud it was


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> It was definitely getting power it was making a very loud noise, at first I thought it was a cable hitting a fan blade thats how loud it was


haha wow - very odd, especially seeing as it was working before!


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> haha wow - very odd, especially seeing as it was working before!


I am just hoping I didn't do any damage to it by running it a little bit with the pump dry, I am sure it could not of been good for it but it was for 1:30 tops for the 2 times I turned it on. Just don't get how it happened by simply moving my radiator to a different spot. Must not have a lot of liquid in it.


----------



## viper522

My 920 just started the marble crunching sound at all speeds above idle. hrmph


----------



## spikezone2004

I dont know if that is the same thing that just happened to me, But I moved my computer in every angle like on each side up and down to get the water in the kuhler to move around and thats what fixed my problem.


----------



## Pablidito

Hello fellow Antec Kuhler owners! My latest build with a modded Antec Kuhler 920:





Refilling this thing was a pain in the backside, but once I worked all the air out of the loop, she's been purring like a kitten ever since


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Awesome!!!


----------



## M3TAl

Looks really nice. Is there another pump in there? No way a 920 pump has the flow for all that? Two rads, two GPU's, and I see another res with a fillport? Is the thing glowing blue by the GPU's a pump?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's extremely sexy!


----------



## Pablidito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Looks really nice. Is there another pump in there? No way a 920 pump has the flow for all that? Two rads, two GPU's, and I see another res with a fillport? Is the thing glowing blue by the GPU's a pump?


Thanks M3TAI! Yep, I have a separate loop for the GPUs. I'm using a Swiftech MCP35x pump fed by a Swiftech MicroRes on the second loop. You're definitely right...that Antec pump would suffer a slow and painful death if it had to handle the entire loop!


----------



## viper522

I'll try that, thanks.


----------



## viper522

Ok my problem seems to be one of the Antec fans, not the pump. If I pull the plug from one of the fans the noise stops. So I'll be getting some new fans soon.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Could be the bearings. Performance might be dampened due to a fan not working properly, but the cooling should still work if the pump is working.
Try cleaning your fans. Could even be trapped dust preventing a clean rotation


----------



## Pablidito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> My 920 just started the marble crunching sound at all speeds above idle. hrmph


Hey Viper, I ran into a similar issue when I refilled my 920 loop. The pumps on these systems are very weak so any amount of air trapped in the pump/block assembly will just sit there until it is worked out of there. If you can, I would recommend taking the unit out of your system, hook it up to an external PSU, and power it on/off and move the rad/pump all around until it works the air out of the pump. I had to alternate moving the rad over the pump and vice versa to work my air bubbles out (had to shake the pump a bit too...cursing at it sometimes helps also!







)

Otherwise, try moving your case around with the pump running (gently so you don't damage any components) to try to work it through. Once the air pocket breaks free the pump should be much quieter. Good luck and hope this helps!


----------



## Pablidito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> Ok my problem seems to be one of the Antec fans, not the pump. If I pull the plug from one of the fans the noise stops. So I'll be getting some new fans soon.


Just saw that you figured out it was a fan and not the pump...good news! Disregard my previous post









Also, if you're powering the pump off of a fan header on your MOBO you might consider getting a molex to 4 pin power adapter to give the pump plenty of power to run itself and the fans. The pump will run at 100% at all times and you can still adjust your fan controls in the Antec control panel.


----------



## viper522

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pablidito*
> 
> Just saw that you figured out it was a fan and not the pump...good news! Disregard my previous post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Also, if you're powering the pump off of a fan header on your MOBO you might consider getting a molex to 4 pin power adapter to give the pump plenty of power to run itself and the fans. The pump will run at 100% at all times and you can still adjust your fan controls in the Antec control panel.


I don't recall how I have mine setup, but that is good advice. I will check if it is powered by a mbd header and change it if so.


----------



## Pablidito

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *viper522*
> 
> I don't recall how I have mine setup, but that is good advice. I will check if it is powered by a mbd header and change it if so.


Yeah, I originally ran mine off a mobo header that was set at 100% in the BIOS but the pump still sounded like it was struggling. Once I changed it to run off the PSU with an adapter, its been running fine without a problem ever since.


----------



## messeduprex

I am kind of dissatified with my 620. I put it on a few days ago and with just a mild over clock of 4.3 @ 1.185v on my 3570k i was reaching 75-79c under IBT with abient temps @27c. That was with the antec fan and a stock case fan in a push pull config. So last night i went and bought 2 more case fans (coolermaster 120mm) and some artic silver and re-installed my cooler(i had forgot the plastic snap ring). I set everything back to default clocks, and it is still reaching 55-60c under load @ stock clocks. Im going out today and pick up 2 corsair SP120's and 5 AF120's and see if they help at all. im lost though. I thought it should cool it better than that. Thats about what the stock cooler was doing.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *messeduprex*
> 
> I am kind of dissatified with my 620. I put it on a few days ago and with just a mild over clock of 4.3 @ 1.185v on my 3570k i was reaching 75-79c under IBT with abient temps @27c. That was with the antec fan and a stock case fan in a push pull config. So last night i went and bought 2 more case fans (coolermaster 120mm) and some artic silver and re-installed my cooler(i had forgot the plastic snap ring). I set everything back to default clocks, and it is still reaching 55-60c under load @ stock clocks. Im going out today and pick up 2 corsair SP120's and 5 AF120's and see if they help at all. im lost though. I thought it should cool it better than that. Thats about what the stock cooler was doing.


It really should preform better than stock - are you sure it is getting 12v from the motherboard header (the pump)
and that you have bolted it down properly and firmly?

Also AS5 is no longer recommended as a thermal paste, it is outdated and old - get something a little more recent - like MX2/MX4


----------



## messeduprex

I cant even hear the pump running. But in the bios it says its running @ 1450 rpm. I ran down to Tigerdirect and that is all they had on the shelf at that time and I wanted to get it together.the stock fan ran fine. And im pretty sure its on right and as tight as I can get it.( the screws are bottomed out)


----------



## M3TAl

AS5







. Refused to use it even when it was the king of pastes. No way I'm putting something electrically conductive on my parts. Now days there is pastes just as good or even better for same or less cost.

How is your radiator positioned? Intake, exhaust, rear, top, front?


----------



## messeduprex

it is positioned in the rear, exhausts out the case. I have an intake case fan in the front & bottom and a exhaust case fan at the top. here is a screenshot during IBT.

under load



@ idle


----------



## M3TAl

Intake will of course be better temps but you need someone in here who is familiar with Intel cpu's. I couldn't tell you if those temps are good/bad.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

28c on LOAD?
And that's "bad"?!

I used to get 90c on load and idlke on 30c - tell me I'm missing something in your screenshots.

I got a i7 3770k


----------



## messeduprex

Thats the mb temp not the cpu


----------



## M3TAl

Do all/most Intel mobo's have that many sensors? Jeebus that's a lot of sensors. Used to seeing like 3-4 mobo sensors.


----------



## spikezone2004

I would try repositioning your radiator. I just moved my radiator from the rear exhaust to front intake and have gotten about 10c better on all of my temps when idle and under load.


----------



## M3TAl

Doubt he has room. Isn't the 200r a pretty small case?


----------



## messeduprex

I would have to remove my hdd bays. Its small but not too small. I could mount it easily on top


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Doubt he has room. Isn't the 200r a pretty small case?


It is a small case, but if you had to remove the hdd trays to fit in the front I would definitely at least try it and compare your temperatures to what you are receiving now.

I removed one set of my hdd trays on my case to reduce clutter and fit a bottom fan in.


----------



## messeduprex

Update: so I removed the cooler to reseat and put some mx-2 that I picked up & the pump had a small leaks around the connection. Luckily it didn't damage anything. So I shook the rad and there was quite a bit of sloshing. So tomorrow it goes back to best buy. Im not sure if I want to pick up a hyper 212 or try the corsair h80i. I had got the last 620 on the shelf and they don't carry the 920.


----------



## spikezone2004

try a different store around you? i got mine from staples they had the best price at the time. depending on where you live tigerdirect, microcenter have good prices


----------



## messeduprex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> try a different store around you? i got mine from staples they had the best price at the time. depending on where you live tigerdirect, microcenter have good prices


Microcenter is a bit of a hike for me, Tigerdirect only had Corsair & Thermalake. I might try staples though. Im just not sure if I should consider this a bad omen.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *messeduprex*
> 
> Microcenter is a bit of a hike for me, Tigerdirect only had Corsair & Thermalake. I might try staples though. Im just not sure if I should consider this a bad omen.


The way i look at it is, every product no matter what you can receive a faulty one. being shipped to best buy it could of been dropped, kicked etc. (I have seen how some people treat the shipments after working in electronics retail for a couple years). Their are many people that like they Kulhers, me being one of them.

I personally wouldnt go to a hyper 212, either the corsair h80i or another 620. there is also frys, office depot


----------



## M3TAl

H80i's are nice. Will be better temp wise than a 212 but if you want air cooling then go for air.


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Fry's had a killer deal on the 920s for $59 after rebate, so I grabbed one. Nice setup in theory but some disappointments, namely:

1- fasteners were too short and countersunk for no good reason and no way works w/ washers. Warning: you'll need to go to a hardware store prior to install or it won't install at all. I used the fasteners from my Thermaltake water 2.0.
2- with temp programmed in to widget fans don't come on w/ temp, overheating proc as 700 RPM fan speed does nothing
3- fans are way loud

I was maxing out the 25 mm Thermaltake, so I needed better cooling. I'm maybe getting 5c better temps, not particularly impressed.

Anyone know how to get the fans to work w/ processor temp, do I just need to go straight to the Mobo for fan controls? because that works beautifully through BIOS.


----------



## M3TAl

Your fans are hooked up to the 920 and not mobo or psu correct? You can set fan ramp speeds, it's based not on CPU temp but on liquid temp.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

If you're happy via bios, then stick with thatI








myself have the fans connected directly to the motherboard, and don't have any temp problems


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If you're happy via bios, then stick with thatI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> myself have the fans connected directly to the motherboard, and don't have any temp problems


Yes Mobo connect works awesome, but you have to go and hunt down a y connector outside of the kit, because the wires aren't long enough on the 920 for me. I still can't figure out why the short fasteners are in there when they're all Asetek at the end of the day. They may not be accounting for the different fans they all offer.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Your fans are hooked up to the 920 and not mobo or psu correct? You can set fan ramp speeds, it's based not on CPU temp but on liquid temp.


Yup, liquid based temp. I'm on the fence whether that is actually fast enough of a metric


----------



## messeduprex

Update:

So I returned my 620 today and after not being able to find another 620, 920 or a corsair h80i. I settled on a corsair h55. Not what I wanted, but I need my pc. So I bring it home to install and what do I find? That the h55 is exactly the same as the 620. Same funky mounts and everything. The only difference is the fan plugs into the mobo not the extension.


----------



## M3TAl

Then that H55 is probably also made by Asetek.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *messeduprex*
> 
> Update:
> 
> So I returned my 620 today and after not being able to find another 620, 920 or a corsair h80i. I settled on a corsair h55. Not what I wanted, but I need my pc. So I bring it home to install and what do I find? That the h55 is exactly the same as the 620. Same funky mounts and everything. The only difference is the fan plugs into the mobo not the extension.


OIK but what about the most important things - the temps?


----------



## messeduprex

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> OIK but what about the most important things - the temps?


After a 2hr run of prime95, OC to 4.3 @ 1.19v max temp of 71c, idle OC @ 33c. Stock clocks idle: 29c, IBT run @ high 52c


----------



## Totally Dubbed

So good temps then. Pleased to hear it


----------



## edsai

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Then that H55 is probably also made by Asetek.


The H55 is made by Asetek, look this:

http://www.asetek.com/corsair-h55.html


----------



## messeduprex

Makes me feel a little better knowing im not cheating on you guys in this thread.


----------



## M3TAl

Haha, no hate on Corsair from me, they make good stuff. Haven't actually owned anything of theirs yet though.


----------



## edsai

This is an old tip from Corsair George: An easy way to tell which is which, Asetek pumps are circular, CoolIT pumps are square.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1235493/corsair-h80-or-antec-920/30#post_16942059


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Ok, finally got around to doing back to back testing of fan control and I have to report that the chill software that uses water temp is pretty worthless. Water is such a lagging indicator of proc temp that it would let the proc go to 102c. By using Mobo fan control to target CPU temps h2o didn't go over 31c and proc temp went to only 94c max. Using the Chill software water went as hot as 37c. 920 is a better system vs the 620 in keeping temps in check. The Antec fans are just so loud though.


----------



## naossoan

Has anyone successfully used the 920 with an Asus P8Z77-V (not the other models, just the straight up "-V" version) motherboard?

I've put the silver threaded inserts into the holes for Socket 1156 seeing as they are the same as Socket 1155, but when I try to put on the back plate, it's getting hung up/binding on some of the soldering points on the backside of the motherboard, to the right hand side and a bit below when looking at the socket straight on from the back. I'll try and show a picture...

I'm afraid that:

A: The foam padding is going to conduct electricity between the solder points which it is touching
B: The one solder point near the corner of the bracket will get damaged once screwing down the actual cooler
C: The cooler will not align flush with the CPU cooler due to one side of the bracket being lower down/more flush with the motherboard than the opposite side (the side which I have marked with red) since there is nothing opposing the bracket as can be seen in the picture of the bare motherboard without the bracket there.

What should I do? Return it and get a different cooler? Break out the dremel and make space for the one pin which is actually in contact with the hard plastic near the corner (by removing some plastic)? The ones which go into the foam should sink down into the foam easily enough but...

Here's the album: http://imgur.com/a/LODD6#0

The third image shows the 1 pin which is in contact with the plastic back plate
The 4th image shows the pins in contact with the foam padding

My last question is, the instructions say to install the software BEFORE installing the CPU cooler, however this is a completely new system build so Windows isn't even installed yet at all. Can I still install this before installing Windows, or am I going to have to install the stock CPU cooler, set up Windows, install the Antec software, take the stock CPU cooler off then install the Antec one??


----------



## Destrto

Hey guys, new entry to the club! Ordered 2 Antec 620's earlier this week and have just successfully installed them onto my XFX 6850's.


Temps dropped from 50C Idle at stock, to 32C Idle with the 630's installed.
Gaming has seen about 50C so far from each card.


----------



## M3TAl

Just finished putting the 620 on my 7870XT last night. Results are here http://www.overclock.net/t/1373543/official-7870-tahiti-le-xt-owners-club/2500#post_20236110


----------



## Maximization

nice video card mods


----------



## Destrto

Quick question about the pump and fan speed on the Antec 620.
Does the 3 pin connection on the pump, that is supposed to plug into the motherboard, control both the pump speed and the fan speed together?

I ask because I tried plugging each one into my motherboard, and while it controled the fan speed in line with my settings in Fan Xpert, I noticed that the pump also made vibrating noises as though it were running at a lower speed as well.

When I plugged them into my 5 port controller, powered by a molex plug for constant 12v, the vibrating stopped.


----------



## M3TAl

The female connector is for the pump. This should run full speed 12V 24/7 never any lower.

The male connector is for the fan and I don't believe the 620 controls the fan speed. You can plug the fan into your motherboard or fan controller and control it that way.

This is what RPM's you should see for the pump:


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The female connector is for the pump. This should run full speed 12V 24/7 never any lower.
> 
> The male connector is for the fan and I don't believe the 620 controls the fan speed. You can plug the fan into your motherboard or fan controller and control it that way.
> 
> This is what RPM's you should see for the pump:


I dont see a reading on any temp monitoring program because my pumps are plugged in to the Fan controller to run at 12v contstantly. So they arent actually connected to my motherboard, but I knew this beforehand. When they are plugged in to my motherboard the pumps vibrate. Could it be caused by the profile in Fan Xpert i have set up for Chassis fans to run at a lower speed? That's the only thing I can think of currently that could cause the noise.

Also, will the software for the 920 model work with the 620 model? Or does the 920 model include a usb header like the "i" series from Corsair?


----------



## M3TAl

Running the pump below 12V will cause the symptoms you describe.

The software only works with the 920 and it does include a USB header.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Running the pump below 12V will cause the symptoms you describe.
> 
> The software only works with the 920 and it does include a USB header.


Ok thanks, I figured the 920 had something the 620 did not. No biggie.

And that's what I came up with too. I just dd some troubleshooting as well, determined my theory was right about the fan profile I had setup within Fan Xpert. Disabled it and the noise from the pump ceased. Just have to figure out a way to slow the fans down some. Just a bit too loud for me, even at 50%, or whatever theyre set to from the plug ins at the pump. I don't need them running that high, cause my cards dont generate that much heat. 35C at idle, 50C during gaming.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nice mods guys!
Sorry I'm on holiday thus the lack of attention lately


----------



## naossoan

Guy I installed this Kuhler 920 on an i5 3570K (which is OC to 3.6 at the moment, will be going higher later) and idle temp is around 28-31 degrees.

Is this normal? for some reason it seems high to me. I have the cooler pulling in from the rear of the case. It's in Push/Pull obviously.


----------



## M3TAl

What's the ambient temp? My room is ~27C if I was idling 28C that would be amazing.


----------



## naossoan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What's the ambient temp? My room is ~27C if I was idling 28C that would be amazing.


Umm I have no idea what ambient temp is. I'm guessing around 20 degrees?


----------



## M3TAl

Honestly don't sweat over idle temps. Load temps is all that matters.

Can't tell you what your load temps should be as I'm not versed with Intel but eventually the others in here with SB/IB will chime in.


----------



## naossoan

Maybe it's normal because I run a 3570K myself with a H100 as seen in my stats and right now with approximately the same ambient temperature CPUID's Hardware Monitor is reading around 26, 23, 24, 26 on each core in mine right now. Fluctuating +/- a degree or so.

This rad is twice as big so maybe it's alright. The kid put the CPU block on himself after I told him not to and I Asked him how he did it. He said he looked it up online how to do it properly. I asked him if he put the block up through the metal bracket, then attached the plastic retaining ring over top and he said he did. I gave it a tug and it appeared like it was on well enough. I didn't want to take it off as to have to re-apply thermal grease so I gave him the benefit of the doubt.


----------



## Destrto

Your temps seem fine. Worry more about load temps, as idle temps don't actually tell you a whole lot that's useful. My system fluctuates from 19c to 29c with an ambient of about 22c. This is with an h100 on an fx8120 over clocked to 4.5ghz. but, this is due to the sensors for AMD not be very accurate until after 35c or so.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Agreed with what's been said. My idle temps vary from 21c to 35c


----------



## naossoan

ok thanks guys I will give it a few days to make sure the thermal grease has set in and test idle and load again.


----------



## BWAS1000

Saving up for a 620, hope to join the club soon guys.


----------



## ltopin

hi, i have an ANTEC KUHLER H2o 920 for about 6 months and
yesterday it start to get some weird readings for the liquid
temperature, the chill control shows the pump and the fans
working correctly, but i check the processor temperature on
AIDA 64 and it shosw a way higher temperature then the liquid
temperature (it should be at least close to ache other) its
like processor 50 celcius and the liquid temperature its
around 30 celsius so the fans did not start when it reach a
certain temperature to cool off, i try to reinstall
chillcontrol and the driver but did not work, i try also
change the USB port and not worked.
Its like, either the sensor its not working corretly or the
hot liquid its not 'reaching' the sensor for some reason.
what you guys think about ?

thanks.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't even look at that temperature. Only the cores matter which show 32C. The temp limit for the cores as stated by AMD is 62C. They can go over 62C but it is not recommended, at least not for long periods of time.

It is normal for cores to be at 55+C but the liquid temp will be 40-43C.


----------



## ltopin

no no but even when i play games or render videos the liquit temperature stays very low, the temperature must up so the fans starts and start to cool off with it is not happening anymore, before i barely start some game and the fans already up the RPMs, now my processor reach 60 celsius and the liquid stays on 30 to 35 celsius


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ltopin*
> 
> no no but even when i play games or render videos the liquit temperature stays very low, the temperature must up so the fans starts and start to cool off with it is not happening anymore, before i barely start some game and the fans already up the RPMs, now my processor reach 60 celsius and the liquid stays on 30 to 35 celsius


It sounds like settings have changed in the Antec app and you need to put them in again. The control units seem to retain their settings even when you're not in the OS which is awesome.

If you want the temps to actually do something, you've gotta wire the fans to the Mobo.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Ok the liquid temperature shouldn't realistically go over 45c.
Normal liquid temperature floats around 35c under load. So what you're seeing is completely normal. As one of the members said: liquid temp is not to be confused with your CPU core temp.
To give you an idea: whilst my pc was folding for over 10 days non stop, liquid temperature had risen to 45c, and my CPU temps had reached 92c. This is on a stock i7 3770k @1.27v @ 4.5ghz.


----------



## sparkeyjames

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't even look at that temperature. Only the cores matter which show 32C. The temp limit for the cores as stated by AMD is 62C. They can go over 62C but it is not recommended, at least not for long periods of time.
> 
> It is normal for cores to be at 55+C but the liquid temp will be 40-43C.


I do believe that with the 920 under load the core temps and cooland temps will be much closer than that. At least as reported by Chillcontrol V and your favorite system monitor program.
I have an AMD Athlon II x4 that I run at 3.75Ghz @ 1.49volts. The coolant temp in my AMD branded Asetec cooler (same as the kuhler 920) *at idle* is 40C, according to the chillcontrol V software, the processor cores are running at 12C under that (@28C) that's according to Open Hardware Monitor. With an ambient indoor air temp at 27C.
This may or may not be a misreporting of the coolant temp by the Asetec hardware. Over time it might even work out that coolant temps come to within 5 to 10C of a loaded processor core temp. By then your fans should be making a holy hell of a racket spinning along at 2000-2400rpm. Even then your probably running Prime95 or some other processor stress test program. Games rarely will stress a 920 cooled processor that badly at least in my experience.

ps. During writing of this post I ran Prime95 to test this and I'm spot on at least with my setup. Cores @ 47-48C, coolant @ 43.8C, ambient room @ 27C. Radiator fans spinning at around 2050rpm and drawing a mix of external and internal air. Set on extreme 2400rpm fans I can get the coolant down to 42C. Core temps drop to 45.5C. I do not dismiss the possibility that ChillControl V via the hardware could be misreporting coolant temps. In the case of the OP this misreporting of coolant temps could be a serious problem as his fans will not ramp up correctly. If I were him I'd consider a warranty claim.


----------



## M3TAl

Here's my temp maybe 1min after playing borderlands 2. Not sure I've ever seen the liquid temp go over 45C maybe 46C at most and thats intel burn test yet cores will be around 60C.


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchronicBoost*
> 
> I have to report that the chill software that uses water temp is pretty worthless. Water is such a lagging indicator of proc temp that it would let the proc go to 102c. By using Mobo fan control to target CPU temps h2o didn't go over 31c and proc temp went to only 94c max. Using the Chill software water went as hot as 37c. 920 is a better system vs the 620 in keeping temps in check.


I would NOT rely on water temp to keep your core temps in check. Setting fans connected to Mobo set to maintain 50c proc temps is what is helping me clip massive rises in temp.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Odd question, does anybody have an extra stock barb for the waterblock/pump they want to sell? The 90 degree angle thing that screws into the pump assembly and attaches to the hoses.
Thanks!


----------



## M3TAl

Probably going to be difficult finding one of those.


----------



## Evil Genius Jr

Probably lol, mine just snapped off


----------



## M3TAl

Don't know if Antec even has those considering they receive the units fully assembled. Asetek probably only deals with OEM's and not individuals. You really might be screwed









Edit: your only hope is probably finding some one with a dead/broken kuhler that's willing to take the barb off for you.


----------



## Destrto

You could purchase one from a different company that is the same diameter barb possibly. Unless the part going in to the pump is Antec/Asetek specific.


----------



## meankeys

On my 920
The cooler hoses and fan wires are 12"


----------



## M3TAl

Couldn't tell you about the fan wires since I don't use the stock fans but my hoses were around 13"


----------



## Destrto

I was talking about the barbs. Not the tube lengths. As he was asking for those.


----------



## NoDoz

New owner of the 920. Really like it compared to my h70.

http://s2.photobucket.com/user/04Li...2E-3508-00000296D43693A1_zps993a92be.jpg.html


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoDoz*
> 
> New owner of the 920. Really like it compared to my h70.
> 
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/04Li...2E-3508-00000296D43693A1_zps993a92be.jpg.html


Did you get your GPU issue resolved?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Welcome to the club!


----------



## NoDoz

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Did you get your GPU issue resolved?


Yeah I did, thanks for the help. PSU cable came loose while installing and I don't know how. Everything is running perfect and gained 300 points on my 3dmark11 score. Was surprised. Thanks for the help yesterday +rep

Heres a comparison between my corsair h70 and my new antec 920. Test was running prime for 10 min. This wasn't running in extreme mode either and was dialing in my custom fan profile so it could of been a few degrees cooler. very impressed!!

H70
http://s2.photobucket.com/user/04LiQuiDsiLvEr/media/h70_zpseb707ffe.png.html

920
http://s2.photobucket.com/user/04Li...2-4396-a18f-ffd8d5284e0f_zpsb26f365b.jpg.html

75 degrees on H70, 63 degrees on 920


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NoDoz*
> 
> Yeah I did, thanks for the help. PSU cable came loose while installing and I don't know how. Everything is running perfect and gained 300 points on my 3dmark11 score. Was surprised. Thanks for the help yesterday +rep
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Heres a comparison between my corsair h70 and my new antec 920. Test was running prime for 10 min. This wasn't running in extreme mode either and was dialing in my custom fan profile so it could of been a few degrees cooler. very impressed!!
> 
> H70
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/04LiQuiDsiLvEr/media/h70_zpseb707ffe.png.html
> 
> 920
> http://s2.photobucket.com/user/04Li...2-4396-a18f-ffd8d5284e0f_zpsb26f365b.jpg.html
> 
> 75 degrees on H70, 63 degrees on 920


Glad to see you got everything fixed and back up and running.


----------



## Gereti

okay guy's, i have serious question, what i should buy?
antec 920 or 620?
920 pay's without taxes 75e and 620 44e (don't have to pay taxes becose buy this using scool







)
I have thinked about to buy 920 becose it's include that cool led logo








stuff to cool: Phenom II 960T (unlock's to x6) or then 1100T (going to buy that)
case is Rosewill Ranger, and i was going to place that on roof
i own already mugen 3 with push&pull fan system but that's heavy stuff to install more than one's a year...


----------



## M3TAl

There's no reason not to get the 920 if it will fit in your case easily... and you can easily afford the extra $.

Why on earth would you buy an 1100T when you have a 960T?!?!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Agreed with the above


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Why on earth would you buy an 1100T when you have a 960T?!?!


well, becose then i can put 960T on my second computer, what i can use if i travel somewhere,from my friend etc
and becose i pay 1100T less than new amd sempron,...maby half price of new sempron








that's why i'm going to buy that. But okay, i'm think now to buy 920, becose my mugen 3 is so big and it's very difficult to install case roof fan's


----------



## NoDoz

Just checking in. Been using my 920 for a few days now and I have never loved something so much.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha, glad you're liking it


----------



## aaroc

Two XFX HD 7870 Core 2GB cooled by one Antec 620 each using Dwoods brackets. A corsair H100i is on the top for the CPU. All fans are Corsair. Tower CM 690 II Advanced usb 3.0. The tower skateboard is antec too.


----------



## M3TAl

Nice! Gotta love the 690 II.


----------



## Roph

Been running my 620 for about a week now, I couldn't use the built in fan header that comes off the pump though because it runs it constantly at 100%, super loud. Even at 20C it's still spinning any fan connected like its life depended on it.

Do I have a 620 with a dud temperature sensor or something? It's no issue, I'm just using another fan header from my motherboard.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Roph*
> 
> Been running my 620 for about a week now, I couldn't use the built in fan header that comes off the pump though because it runs it constantly at 100%, super loud. Even at 20C it's still spinning any fan connected like its life depended on it.
> 
> Do I have a 620 with a dud temperature sensor or something? It's no issue, I'm just using another fan header from my motherboard.


Mine did the same thing. I couldn't run a fan profile because it manipulated the pump speed as well as fan speed.


----------



## Wumbologist

Just put a 620 on my 7850 using zipties

Used to be 70c+ in game now only 45c with only a Noctua NF P14 at lowest speed







A WHOLE lot quieter too



By the way is the pump supposed to make a low buzzing noise?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

The pump should make a very inaudible sound, as it will be working. However you shouldn't really be able to hear it at all


----------



## c0ld

If I want to get the GT AP-15's will I need anything else to connect them? They will be running at full speed right?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> If I want to get the GT AP-15's will I need anything else to connect them? They will be running at full speed right?


Connect them to what exactly? The Coolers' fan plug in? it is a regular 3 pin female plug i believe, nothing out of the ordinary.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Depends on the motherboard, and where you connect them up to and what pin connection they use


----------



## c0ld

Well connect them the same way I connect the stock fans.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

If they're 3 pin fans. Then they will run at full speed. If they are 4 pin you can adjust.
That said, if you plug it into your motherboard and they're 3 pin fans, and your motherboard has qfan control, then you'll be able to control the fans via the bios


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If they're 3 pin fans. Then they will run at full speed. If they are 4 pin you can adjust.
> That said, if you plug it into your motherboard and they're 3 pin fans, and your motherboard has qfan control, then you'll be able to control the fans via the bios


So if I want to control them I plug them into the chassis fan headers then? If not then the regular connectors.


----------



## M3TAl

Basically yes, they work exactly the same as any other 3-pin fan.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If they're 3 pin fans. Then they will run at full speed. If they are 4 pin you can adjust.
> That said, if you plug it into your motherboard and they're 3 pin fans, and your motherboard has qfan control, then you'll be able to control the fans via the bios


If you have an ASUS board, Fan Xpert from the AI Suite package works just as well, if not alittle better than Qfan from within BIOS.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Basically yes, they work exactly the same as any other 3-pin fan.


Antec Software wont work if I plug them where the stock fans are plugged right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> If you have an ASUS board, Fan Xpert from the AI Suite package works just as well, if not alittle better than Qfan from within BIOS.


Not anymore f*ck ASUS and their RMA, running Asrock.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Antec Software wont work if I plug them where the stock fans are plugged right?
> Not anymore f*ck ASUS and their RMA, running Asrock.


OK then....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha good man, I hate asus too!
I have the noobtooth z77, but haven't installed the software, after realising on my previous win 7 installation that Asus software left behind a lot of services running. From then on, I've just used the bios.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Haha good man, I hate asus too!
> I have the noobtooth z77, but haven't installed the software, after realising on my previous win 7 installation that Asus software left behind a lot of services running. From then on, I've just used the bios.


I personally don't care for 90% of the AI Suite from ASUS, the only program from it that I run is the Fan Xpert.


----------



## M3TAl

Always hearing tons of complaints about Asus RMA, but at least on AMD they make some real nice boards.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

True. From my experiences on 4 rmasI , all separate pc's, laptops, screens. won't be ever buying again from them.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> True. From my experiences on 4 rmasI , all separate pc's, laptops, screens. won't be ever buying again from them.


Yeah they still have my old board "Repairing", went ahead and bought a new one.


----------



## Buklyne

hi guys i am new in this club. i've got a antec h2o 620 modded
here is some pics for you




just tell me wha you guys think about it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Beautiful!!!!
I'll add that to the op when I get on a pc


----------



## M3TAl

Sexy!

Compression fittings on the res? Are you not using anything to clamp the barb fittings?


----------



## Destrto

Is the pump strong enough to push that adequately?


----------



## Buklyne

yeah thanks for it, i am so happy to see you like it.















yes it is compression fittings on the res. i prefer that solution cause i don't really like the way it turns with barss :s and the tube is tight enought to handle the radiators' barbs so.
year i still got good temps with it. it is not that powerfull but it is correct


----------



## MrDucktape

Where can I get a couple of screws to mount an aditional fan in my Kuhler 620¿ I went to my hardware store and they gave me some similar ones but said that they didn't have those used in the kuhler.


----------



## Buklyne

You can get some UNC screws from mdpc-x.com it's what i used and it is what you need


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> Where can I get a couple of screws to mount an aditional fan in my Kuhler 620¿ I went to my hardware store and they gave me some similar ones but said that they didn't have those used in the kuhler.


You could also try some of those RC helicopter part sites. I found a bunch in different sizes that are identical to the ones I got from both my Antec kuhlers and the H100.

http://nitrohouse.ecomm-search.com/search?keywords=m3x8&search.x=12&search.y=19

http://www.hotbodiesonline.com/products/en/z352.html


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> Where can I get a couple of screws to mount an aditional fan in my Kuhler 620¿ I went to my hardware store and they gave me some similar ones but said that they didn't have those used in the kuhler.


I used normal fan mount screws to mount my second fan on my radiator just the ones that came with it on the one fan and then i got a very slim screwdriver to go through the screw hole on fan to screw in a regular screw for the other fan


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrDucktape*
> 
> Where can I get a couple of screws to mount an aditional fan in my Kuhler 620¿ I went to my hardware store and they gave me some similar ones but said that they didn't have those used in the kuhler.


Then the people at your hardware store are... well, not too bright. You can go to ANY hardware store and get 6-32x1-1/4" screws. I use them on my 620 in combination with the stock screws.


----------



## spikezone2004

How tight do you guys tighten you cpu block onto your cpu?

I am about to re do my thermal paste see if I get better temps and was just thinking that I may not of tightened it enough which is giving me bad contact causing the not so good temperatures. I used the x method for the first time and I think I used too much, also I have been reading some cpus you want a full x corner to corner but some its better just a smaller x in the middle and not nessecarily touching the corners just 2/3 if the cpu. I am really starting to think I messed up on thermal paste trying the x for the first time without looking to much into it and I dont think I tightened it enough

I could still turn the screws on mine with a little bit of force but not an extreme amount of force but i didnt want to over tighten it and i couldnt really remember how tight it did it on my last cpu


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Basically until it doesn't want to move within its mount. You start doing more when the nut in the backplate starts moving as you tighten it


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Basically until it doesn't want to move within its mount. You start doing more when the nut in the backplate starts moving as you tighten it


does over tightening it cause worse temperatures?


----------



## WiiiiizarD

Hello, I wanted to show them how this tutorial is about, but with transparent tube having blue LED fans with the impression he gives is that they have water inside.

Greetings.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> does over tightening it cause worse temperatures?


Yes, it can cause worsened temps if it is overtightened.

Also, that much Thermal paste is not necessary. A small drop in the center would be enough. the "grain of rice" method. Any more than that and you will get spillage over the edges. Too much paste is as bad as not enough in some cases.

If your block has thumb screws, tighten them down finger tight at first. Then only a few small twists with a screwdriver after that.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Yes, it can cause worsened temps if it is overtightened.
> 
> Also, that much Thermal paste is not necessary. A small drop in the center would be enough. the "grain of rice" method. Any more than that and you will get spillage over the edges. Too much paste is as bad as not enough in some cases.
> 
> If your block has thumb screws, tighten them down finger tight at first. Then only a few small twists with a screwdriver after that.


I normally do use the rice size but I thought Id try the X method as seeing it can perform the best and surprisingly I didnt get any over the edge like I thought but I think I am going back to the rice size.

and for the tightening, that is a good tip to go off I am going to try that, +rep


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I normally do use the rice size but I thought Id try the X method as seeing it can perform the best and surprisingly I didnt get any over the edge like I thought but I think I am going back to the rice size.
> 
> and for the tightening, that is a good tip to go off I am going to try that, +rep


Another thing to check, just to make sure it has been tightened sufficiently, try to lightly wiggle the block to see if it slides or twists in any way. If it does, tighten each screw slightly more.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Another thing to check, just to make sure it has been tightened sufficiently, try to lightly wiggle the block to see if it slides or twists in any way. If it does, tighten each screw slightly more.


I tried that when i finished it and it didnt move at all but I was just having a brain fart if i should tighten it more then i remember not to over tighten it.

I am hopefully going to re do it tomorow and run a cpl of tests and record it before hand then change it and run the same tests to compare


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I tried that when i finished it and it didnt move at all but I was just having a brain fart if i should tighten it more then i remember not to over tighten it.
> 
> I am hopefully going to re do it tomorow and run a cpl of tests and record it before hand then change it and run the same tests to compare


Sounds like a thorough plan.


----------



## M3TAl

This club has been dead lately







. Thought I would ask a question that most likely no one knows the answer too lol.

So for our Kuhler 920's we hook our fans to the Kuhler then to USB. The chill control software is able to read this RPM and display it...

Is there a way to get this fan RPM from USB in say HWiNFO? I'm a bit OCD about these things...

I always use Rivatuner OSD overlay with HWiNFO to display temps/clocks/voltages/etc. Having CPU fan RPM's would be great. Because you know, I'm kind of OCD about these things.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

The usb is to power the cooler. The fan header is what displays the rpm via the 4pin splitters. If you want to display the rpm in hwm, then you have to connect the fans to that splitter. As for the club, no idea why it has died down. Maybe less people buying it?


----------



## M3TAl

Well wait a minute. The 620 has no USB so I don't think it is powered by it, the pump plug powers everything. USB is for sending data, so the software can access all the info.

So the fan header passes the RPM signal over USB, if the chill control software can access this then there must be a way for HWiNFO to do the same.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hmm good point. Why do you need it? Can't you just plug it into the motherboard headers?
Hw info picks mine up, and my fans are connected directly to the motherboard


----------



## M3TAl

Because I'm OCD and I like the 920 automatically regulating fan speed based on water temp.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Lol, then I don't know what we can do


----------



## M3TAl

I guess it's time to ask the HWiNFO developers what's up.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

To be honest, I'm not too sure why you want the liquid temperature to control it. As it reacts slower to sudden changes vs direct cpu temps from the motherboard


----------



## M3TAl

Thing is I don't render/compile or anything 8 threaded very often. So my temps never get near the limit in games or when working on music (though that does use 8 threads). The chill control software is a very smooth transition in fan speed to me.

If you have never used a Giga board before... it's not fun using their software for PWM or anything really, it might as well be spyware lol.

Asus definitely outclasses Giga on tools/software big time.


----------



## darkrain

hi i have Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 920 is on my cpu and i want to use the 620 on gpu and i run both and would both run with software at same time or do i run 630 off a molxe connection rather than mb connection


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkrain*
> 
> hi i have Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 920 is on my cpu and i want to use the 620 on gpu and i run both and would both run with software at same time or do i run 630 off a molxe connection rather than mb connection


The 620 will not function with the software like the 920. You want the 3 pin power from the pump to be plugged into something that will give it 12 volts all the time. So a molex to 3 pin adapter will work. That's what I use for both of my 620s.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkrain*
> 
> hi i have Antec Kühler H2O 620 & 920 920 is on my cpu and i want to use the 620 on gpu and i run both and would both run with software at same time or do i run 630 off a molxe connection rather than mb connection


I run a 920 on CPU and 620 on GPU. The 620 is connected to a mobo fan header and the fans for the 620 are connected to my fan controller.

Btw, Dwood isn't currently selling brackets... so your only option is zip ties or make your own.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I run a 920 on CPU and 620 on GPU. The 620 is connected to a mobo fan header and the fans for the 620 are connected to my fan controller.
> 
> Btw, Dwood isn't currently selling brackets... so your only option is zip ties or make your own.


Chmodlabs is currently making brackets that are compatible with these coolers.


----------



## ihatelolcats

did you get your bracket yet destrto
i hate spending 20 bucks on it (cooler was only like 30) but im not getting fantastic results with zip ties


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> did you get your bracket yet destrto
> i hate spending 20 bucks on it (cooler was only like 30) but im not getting fantastic results with zip ties


They shipped this morning, so no, I have not gotten them just yet.

I was informed of an issue with the shims, that slowed down orders. They should arrive either tomorrow or Friday.

I didnt have any trouble mounting mine with zipties, althought I did notice that after a few days the zipties loosened up and I had to tighten them down a bit more. Which is expected, becuase they are plastic, and plastic will stretch.

If you are using a 79xx series card, I would say the brackets are more than worth 14 bucks a piece. If for no other reason than it assures a solid connection between the card, shim and pump.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Thing is I don't render/compile or anything 8 threaded very often. So my temps never get near the limit in games or when working on music (though that does use 8 threads). The chill control software is a very smooth transition in fan speed to me.
> 
> If you have never used a Giga board before... it's not fun using their software for PWM or anything really, it might as well be spyware lol.
> 
> Asus definitely outclasses Giga on tools/software big time.


Does Gigabyte happen to have a software suite you could use, similar to Asus with its AI Suite? I know the entire suite is completely unnecessary, but something similar to the Fan Xpert that comes in the AI Suite might work fairly well?

One of the things I like about AI Suite is that I can pick and choose which programs out of the entire suite I want. And disregard the rest that I have no need for. The Probe software and Fan Xpert are the only 2 from the entire suite that I wanted.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Does Gigabyte happen to have a software suite you could use, similar to Asus with its AI Suite? I know the entire suite is completely unnecessary, but something similar to the Fan Xpert that comes in the AI Suite might work fairly well?
> 
> One of the things I like about AI Suite is that I can pick and choose which programs out of the entire suite I want. And disregard the rest that I have no need for. The Probe software and Fan Xpert are the only 2 from the entire suite that I wanted.


They have Easy Tune 6 for overclocking and fan control and IMO it's garbage. Never used Asus' but from what I've seen and heard from people it's far superior.

Lol oh and the "hybrid" UEFI bios for non Rev. 3.0 boards is total garabge too... Freezes your system sometimes, reads memory timings wrong, incorrectly sets timings, who knows what else. Hasn't been updated since 2011. At least the Rev 3.0 boards have a different BIOS make and full UEFI that works.

I stick with the old school BIOS, I like it just fine.

/rant


----------



## Destrto

I've always wondered if different manufacturers software suite programs would work with different boards? For example Asus' AI Suite on a Gigabyte board.

Just a thought I had.


----------



## M3TAl

Highly doubt it, but there's only one way to find out...

If it only works on Asus boards due to hardware that's understandable. But it is possible they put some "check" in the code to make sure it's Asus. Similar to the way the Intel compiler checks for Intel/AMD/VIA CPU.


----------



## Destrto

I began to wonder about it when I switched from MSI to Asus boards. In that case, the MSI software package worked on my Asus board. Some driver update thing it had. Was garbage though and nearly corrupted my entire system.


----------



## darkrain

im currently using sigma cooler for my 7950 with 620 bracket is well made and had delivery withing 8 day and im in the uk
http://keplerdynamics.com/sigmacool/

and thx Destrto i will try that do you have the fans on 12v or plugged into mb


----------



## r4yne

I bought one of these the other day and man these babies rock. CPU temps dropped by 20C+ under load and 18C at idle.... Before I was on stock AMD cooling, idle temps were 48-49C and load was 65-65C, now with this installed its 29-30C at idle and 43-44C under load and now its even overclocked by 23% so goes to show how efficient these are.


----------



## M3TAl

Well the stock AMD cooler is pretty bad so by all means it a 620/920 should do much better.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkrain*
> 
> im currently using sigma cooler for my 7950 with 620 bracket is well made and had delivery withing 8 day and im in the uk
> http://keplerdynamics.com/sigmacool/
> 
> and thx Destrto i will try that do you have the fans on 12v or plugged into mb


I have my fans plugged into an adapter that let's me plug them back into my GPUs fan headers.


----------



## darkrain

yes i also did same just ordered some new fans so i can cotrol fans speed idle temp is 38 and under load it 45-50 still seems high but im happy was idle 45 and load 70
and plugged pump into 12volt thx again


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkrain*
> 
> yes i also did same just ordered some new fans so i can cotrol fans speed idle temp is 38 and under load it 45-50 still seems high but im happy was idle 45 and load 70
> and plugged pump into 12volt thx again


My 6850's idle at around 35C and have a max load temp reported of about 55C for the bottom card, and close to 60C for the top card.


----------



## darkrain

if i have put little bit too much tim would that increase temp do i just put a thin layer and smere on as i have to put some on 620 and shim and gpu


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *darkrain*
> 
> if i have put little bit too much tim would that increase temp do i just put a thin layer and smere on as i have to put some on 620 and shim and gpu


Yes, too much TIM could cause slightly higher temps. Do the same method of applying TIM for all pieces.


----------



## tracingspirals

Hey I've got this cooler and its does a brilliant job at cooling but only for one thing that is it's noisy as hell! When the temps get hot it's like a mini jet engine in there!

So I'm looking to replace the fans on the cooler. I was looking at the Corsair SP120 or Noctua NF-f12 but I want the fans to work with the Chill Control software and I read in places that these fans don't seem to work with Antec's software.

Could you guys recommend me good fans for the cooler which would give good cooling but aren't as noisy and would work with the Chill Control software? Thanks!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I would suggest a 4pin pwm fan, and not 3pin ones if you want to be able to control it via the software








I think the apache / tornado fans were recommended by club members. If I'm not mistaken


----------



## Roph

I'm using cooler master blade masters either side of my radiator, controlled through via PWM off the motherboard CPU fan header with a Y splitter cable, super quiet









And speaking of fans - jesus, that 2 pin fan they include with the Kuhler 620 is absolute garbage. It's very different to the antec branded fans that came with my case; I'm guessing it's some awful no-name rebranded thing they just toss in there.

I tried connecting it to my fan controller and just using it as a case fan, but it's still loud as balls even when slowed down. When running super slow, instead of fan noise, it whines. I threw it away.


----------



## tracingspirals

I did notice only one of the Antec fan that came with my 920 is 4-pin. The other one is only 3-pin.

Anyone tried the Noctua NF-f12 PWM fans with the 920? and what sorta results they got? They seem to be the best fans in terms of airflow to fan speed ratio and quietness although they are pretty expensive... They only spin upto 1500rpm so I'm not sure how well they're gonna work with the chill control software as it's designed to push the Antec fans to 2500rpm...

Also what do you guys think of the Scythe Gentle Typhoon AP-15? They also have 4-pin connectors...


----------



## M3TAl

GT AP-15's are the undisputed king of radiator fans. Can't really go wrong with them, just the price is a little meh.

As everyone is saying any 4-pin PWM fan will work, I use Cougar Vortexs. Look at Martin's fan testing. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


----------



## Destrto

You guys do know that 3 pin fans will work with speed profiles? it is not just 4 pin fans.. Not a single one of my fans in my system are 4 pin PWM fans, and they all work with speed profiles, either by the motherboard, or a program within Windows.


----------



## M3TAl

Depends on the board. 3-pin fans are a no go on Giga boards (at least on UD3's). It will auto control them with voltage but you can't set a profile.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Depends on the board. 3-pin fans are a no go on Giga boards (at least on UD3's). It will auto control them with voltage but you can't set a profile.


Ahh I see. I've used MSI Afterburner to control the Antec 620 fans attached to each GPU. And Fan Xpert to control the fans attached to my ASUS board. All of which are 3 pin.


----------



## oswald3k

Guys, little confusion here:

Kuhler 620 on a 3570k. Arctic Silver 5. Corsair SP120 is pushing air from inside the case through the radiator outside the back exhaust of the case.
Overclocked to 4.2Ghz with voltage that idles at around 1.01V and hits 1.224V on Prime95 Blend Test.

*My temps are:*
Room temp: 30*C (86 fahrenheit)
around 40*C (104 fahrenheit) at idle
75-80*C (167 - 176 fahrenheit) at full load

That seems high to me. Too high. What do you guys think?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

First of all I would change paste. AS5 has been known to give higher temps as it is out dated.
I would then make the air come INTO the case, as long as you got an exhaust fan there to take the hot air out the case.
Finally, those temps are pretty normal, maybe just a tad higher than usual though


----------



## oswald3k

In my previous case (Core1000) I had the radiotr mounted in the front and the fan as intake and the temps were pretty much the same, maybe 2-3*C lower at idle. I think the ambient temp (30*C) and TIM are to blame. What do you recommend instead of AS5?


----------



## tracingspirals

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oswald3k*
> 
> Guys, little confusion here:
> 
> Kuhler 620 on a 3570k. Arctic Silver 5. Corsair SP120 is pushing air from inside the case through the radiator outside the back exhaust of the case.
> Overclocked to 4.2Ghz with voltage that idles at around 1.01V and hits 1.224V on Prime95 Blend Test.
> 
> *My temps are:*
> Room temp: 30*C (86 fahrenheit)
> around 40*C (104 fahrenheit) at idle
> 75-80*C (167 - 176 fahrenheit) at full load
> 
> That seems high to me. Too high. What do you guys think?


That is quite high!

First I had the fans pushing air from inside the case out the top too and my PC was hitting 67C at load (room temp was around 30C). Then I flipped the fans around so that they pushing air from outside into the case and then instantly I saw my idle temps go down by around 5C and load temps go down by 10C. In my old case too I had the fans pushing air from the outside into the case and the CPU would never go above 57C. So I'ld say the radiator works best when you have cool air from the outside blowing into it.

Also what is the water temperature of the radiator when your PC hits full load? At such high temps you should expect the coolant temp to be around 50-60C too. When my PC was hitting 60C, the coolant temp would show 40C and I only recently applied the thermal compound so it hasn't bedded in fully yet. You shouldn't see a big difference between the coolant temperature and the CPU temp or else heat isn't getting transferred efficiently from the CPU into the coolant which means you should re apply the thermal compound properly.

And if you're still getting high temps then you should maybe look at pulling back a bit on the overclock. I personally wouldn't like to see the CPU go over 60C, some people are comfortable with 70C, some don't mind pushing upto 80C. So it sorta depends on how hot you're comfortable with to allow your CPU to get to. In general the cooler the CPU runs, the longer it'll perform.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oswald3k*
> 
> In my previous case (Core1000) I had the radiotr mounted in the front and the fan as intake and the temps were pretty much the same, maybe 2-3*C lower at idle. I think the ambient temp (30*C) and TIM are to blame. What do you recommend instead of AS5?


something like the Arctic MX2/MX4


----------



## M3TAl

MX-2/4, IC Diamond, Prolimatech PK-1, Noctua NT-H1, Tuniq TX-2/3.... list goes on. I hate AS5, wish people would quit using it. So outdated now and it's conductive. There's cheaper and safer pastes that perform the same or better (also most of them these days have 0 burn-in time or short burn-in).


----------



## oswald3k

OK I think something is messed up. I just realized that BIOS doesn't give me RPM readings for the pump. I tried different headers on my motherboard. Every other fan gives RPM readings. I think that something's wrong with the pump :/


----------



## M3TAl

If the pump wasn't running your PC would be shutting itself off to prevent damage, 100C+ on CPU. Maybe the RPM wire is no good?


----------



## Gereti

i'm still thinking 920 and 620, should 920 be worth to pay 75€ (when 620 is 44€)
and is it worth to buy new fa'ns to 920 or just go with stockfan's
and where should be the best place for radiator?, case is Rosewill Ranger


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> i'm still thinking 920 and 620, should 920 be worth to pay 75€ (when 620 is 44€)
> and is it worth to buy new fa'ns to 920 or just go with stockfan's
> and where should be the best place for radiator?, case is Rosewill Ranger


I would say the 620 with two "custom" fans.
I wouldn't use the stock fans provided with the 920, unless you run near idle all the time.


----------



## Gereti

why you won't recommend 920 with stockfan's? im interested littlebit for that


----------



## alanfx8150

Hello everyone.

Has anyone tried connecting an Antec Kuhler 1220 to an Antec 1200 v3 yet? I've searched and not found anything.

The nearest thread was about the Corsair H100 in the Antec 1200 v3 so I know the principles are the same, but want to find out as much as I can before I jump in the deep end, remove 'everything' from my case, drill screw holes in the top and then try putting it all bacjk together!

Any advice/links are greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance

MOBO:____ASUS Crosshair V Formula
Sound:_____ASUS Xonar DX2 7.1
CPU:______AMD FX-8150 8 Core
RAM:______G SKILL RIPJAWZ F3-17000CL11D-16GB
GPU:______Galaxy GeForce GTX 680 GC 4 GB
PSU_______Antec Truepower Quattro 1200W
Cooler:_____Antec Kuhler H2O 920 (want to upgrade to the 1220*)
Case:______Antec 1200 v3
OS HDD:___Corsair CSSD-F240GB3-BK Force Series 3 240GB


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> why you won't recommend 920 with stockfan's? im interested littlebit for that


Simply because they are very loud at 1500RPM.

Check the videos in the OP - maybe they'll give you indications







!

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanfx8150*
> 
> Hello everyone.
> 
> Has anyone tried connecting an Antec Kuhler 1220 to an Antec 1200 v3 yet? I've searched and not found anything.
> 
> The nearest thread was about the Corsair H100 in the Antec 1200 v3 so I know the principles are the same, but want to find out as much as I can before I jump in the deep end, remove 'everything' from my case, drill screw holes in the top and then try putting it all bacjk together!
> 
> Any advice/links are greatly appreciated. Thanks in Advance
> 
> MOBO:____ASUS Crosshair V Formula
> Sound:_____ASUS Xonar DX2 7.1
> CPU:______AMD FX-8150 8 Core
> RAM:______G SKILL RIPJAWZ F3-17000CL11D-16GB
> GPU:______Galaxy GeForce GTX 680 GC 4 GB
> PSU_______Antec Truepower Quattro 1200W
> Cooler:_____Antec Kuhler H2O 920 (want to upgrade to the 1220*)
> Case:______Antec 1200 v3
> OS HDD:___Corsair CSSD-F240GB3-BK Force Series 3 240GB


I've yet to hear anyone own the 1220!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Simply because they are very loud at 1500RPM.
> 
> Check the videos in the OP - maybe they'll give you indications
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> I've yet to hear anyone own the 1220!


well, everything is quiet than what i use now, if 1500rpm is max i would buy that
now in use, my mugen3 second fan is 2800rpm 119mm/40mm fan and first fan is something silverstone 35mm(?) 120mm 1000rpm-2200rpm?
sure i can chance those rpm:s, i have one fanmate on 2800rpm and silverstone's have included fanmate on itself, but that 2800rpm fan run's still maby +1300rpm when fanmate is lowest position...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yes but at 2500rpm the Antec's sound like a jet engine. Up to you though!


----------



## alanfx8150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've yet to hear anyone own the 1220!


Hello Totally Dubbed,
I'd read some mixed reviews about it but it does apparently perform better than the 920? Has it had bad critisism generally or it just the price that might turn others away do you think mate?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I think it's price and the time it was released with the h220 & h100i being out before it, if I'm not mistaken.
I haven't really got any info of it to be honest.


----------



## alanfx8150

That's fine. I know they haven't been out long. I only found out by speaking with Antec Support to ask them if they plan on releasing a 240mm Antec Kuhler... and they had already!

I was pleasantly surprised but its been difficult to get information from users with their experience. I think I'm on the right thread anyway to hear some news soon







.

I will either buy mine in a couple of weeks or 6 weeks time. I'm a little worried about taking everything out and drilling those holes in my case. I've never done anything like that but those who don't try don't succeed - or fail miserably and waste a couple of grand! haha. I'm sure it'll be an enjoyable learning curve, plus give me the opportunity to further conceal my wires.

A little last unrelated question I have is: do you know how to change the avatars on here or is it broken? I've clicked to replace it but nothing happens. I want to put my P.C on there










P.S sorry about the glare


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> why you won't recommend 920 with stockfan's? im interested littlebit for that


its vacume cleaner loud
it will work though, my i7 3820 at 5.2 Ghz @ 100% cpu load on all cores it will not go above 55 c in an air conditioned room.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> its vacume cleaner loud
> it will work though, my i7 3820 at 5.2 Ghz @ 100% cpu load on all cores it will not go above 55 c in an air conditioned room.


okay, i understand, but still, two 1500 rpm fan,'s
still more silens than 2x119mm/40mm/2800rpm








...should i try one 120mm/25mm 230V/19W fan on my mugen?








maby it could fly?







, or 2x 140mm/50mm/230V/48W fan's?








not maby, my computer fly away then...


----------



## M3TAl

They're not 1500 rpm though, they go up to what? 2500 rpm or so?

I don't understand what Antec is doing with these AIO's... They've really fell off... No news or marketing about new stuff, I mean come on were on OCN and in the Kuhler club... Here's so many companies entering the AIO market and making waves while Antec is sitting here doing what?


----------



## langen

Hey guys!

So I bought the 620 a half year ago and everything has turned out great until a week ago. When I woke up a week ago my computer was stuck in BIOS with the error message CPU Overheat. The cpu somehow had a temperature at 95 C!! I had played the last night before this happened and didn't notice any problem.

So now my computer begins at normal temperatures but slowly getting warmer up to 82 C, so something is obviously wrong. I remember when I installed it that the pins on the back of the motherboard began to rotate when I was tightening the screws so maybe it isn't in place tight enough? But then I wonder why this hasn't happened before. My guess is that something is broken with the cooler, so I have to buy a new one. Just hearing with you guys first if you have any thoughts.

Thx


----------



## Maximization

there is a 3 year warrenty, call Antec


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They're not 1500 rpm though, they go up to what? 2500 rpm or so?
> 
> I don't understand what Antec is doing with these AIO's... They've really fell off... No news or marketing about new stuff, I mean come on were on OCN and in the Kuhler club... Here's so many companies entering the AIO market and making waves while Antec is sitting here doing what?


2500rpm indeed.
Also about the sitting back and chilling - no idea really. I guess Antec aren't really pushing their products that much. Maybe they need some marketing help!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *langen*
> 
> Hey guys!
> 
> So I bought the 620 a half year ago and everything has turned out great until a week ago. When I woke up a week ago my computer was stuck in BIOS with the error message CPU Overheat. The cpu somehow had a temperature at 95 C!! I had played the last night before this happened and didn't notice any problem.
> 
> So now my computer begins at normal temperatures but slowly getting warmer up to 82 C, so something is obviously wrong. I remember when I installed it that the pins on the back of the motherboard began to rotate when I was tightening the screws so maybe it isn't in place tight enough? But then I wonder why this hasn't happened before. My guess is that something is broken with the cooler, so I have to buy a new one. Just hearing with you guys first if you have any thoughts.
> 
> Thx


Sounds pump related - I would NOT use that on my CPU until you can figure out what's going on. Please use a stock cooler and/or don't turn on your PC, especially on any OC.
Sounds like the 620 has given way - you can get it replaced via Antec, as pointed out by a member above.
BY all means, check screws and that the cooler is properly attached.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanfx8150*
> 
> A little last unrelated question I have is: do you know how to change the avatars on here or is it broken? I've clicked to replace it but nothing happens. I want to put my P.C on there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> P.S sorry about the glare


If you click on your profile, then "Replace Avatar" you should be able to do it.
Maybe it is because you are a new member, and haven't activated your account yet on OCN?


----------



## alanfx8150

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If you click on your profile, then "Replace Avatar" you should be able to do it.
> Maybe it is because you are a new member, and haven't activated your account yet on OCN?


No joy still I'm afraid. I've double checked my emails and I have registered. Strangley the forums will let me do it through my smart phone - maybe its because I'm using my work P.C? Unfortunately the poicture is horizontal when I use my phone so I'll have to wait for during the weekend.

I have another question, does anyone know which drill bits I use use to make a screw hole in the steel case of my Antec 1200? Is there anything that people usually use for drilling holes in their cases? I've been looking for some information most of the morning but it seems very difficult to come by

Cheers,
Alan


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanfx8150*
> 
> No joy still I'm afraid. I've double checked my emails and I have registered. Strangley the forums will let me do it through my smart phone - maybe its because I'm using my work P.C? Unfortunately the poicture is horizontal when I use my phone so I'll have to wait for during the weekend.
> 
> I have another question, does anyone know which drill bits I use use to make a screw hole in the steel case of my Antec 1200? Is there anything that people usually use for drilling holes in their cases? I've been looking for some information most of the morning but it seems very difficult to come by
> 
> Cheers,
> Alan


That's odd!
As for the drill bit - no idea myself. You MIGHT be better off creating a separate thread for that, as you might get people with that case, that have drilled through it.
I would post that in the case mod or case section.


----------



## Gereti

okay, im very sure, that to i buy one 620, but then the fan, how about this?
http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=118
i have already 1 of those /i see that 30 or mm but website tell me 25mm, but whatever...
how about that would work?, i use that on my mugen 3 now, or is there anything better than my silverstone what i should buy?
website where i buy my stuff is http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/926 (yeah, finnish but i get 24% off the price so...)
i would like to get 3pin fan's becose i use now one of my fanmate's on my mugen3 second fan(i like to adjust fan's on my self anywhere, anytime)
Edit, if fan include led's, id like to get some redlighted fan's
edit 2, how about scythe gentle typhoon's?


----------



## hustler68

Good luck with that... I told em I needed the backplate for mine as the thread was spinning...

They then told me that I would have to buy the backplate...

I wont be buying another Antec again due to this experience...

I even offered to upload my receipt as proof of purchase but they didnt want any of it....


----------



## oswald3k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> okay, im very sure, that to i buy one 620, but then the fan, how about this?
> http://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=118
> i have already 1 of those /i see that 30 or mm but website tell me 25mm, but whatever...
> how about that would work?, i use that on my mugen 3 now, or is there anything better than my silverstone what i should buy?
> website where i buy my stuff is http://www.jimms.fi/listaa/926 (yeah, finnish but i get 24% off the price so...)
> i would like to get 3pin fan's becose i use now one of my fanmate's on my mugen3 second fan(i like to adjust fan's on my self anywhere, anytime)
> Edit, if fan include led's, id like to get some redlighted fan's
> edit 2, how about scythe gentle typhoon's?


I'm using Corsair SP120 Performance Edition and it serves me right. Actually I'm planning on adding a second one for push/pull configuration. They don't make this whining noise like gentle typhoons but are quite audible at full speed. I mean everyones taste for noise is different. For me anything abouve 22-4 dBa is rather noisy but hey, I get 30*C/82 fahrenheit room temps so I sacrifice quietness for perfomanace.


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *alanfx8150*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> If you click on your profile, then "Replace Avatar" you should be able to do it.
> Maybe it is because you are a new member, and haven't activated your account yet on OCN?
> 
> 
> 
> No joy still I'm afraid. I've double checked my emails and I have registered. Strangley the forums will let me do it through my smart phone - maybe its because I'm using my work P.C? Unfortunately the poicture is horizontal when I use my phone so I'll have to wait for during the weekend.
> 
> I have another question, does anyone know which drill bits I use use to make a screw hole in the steel case of my Antec 1200? Is there anything that people usually use for drilling holes in their cases? I've been looking for some information most of the morning but it seems very difficult to come by
> 
> Cheers,
> Alan
Click to expand...

almost anything will go through the thin steel. just make sure it makes a smalelr hole than the screw head


----------



## Airrick10

Well after having my Antec Kuhler 620 laying around in my closet for almost a year, I finally busted it out to cool my GTX 660Ti top Sli card. What a difference like 25c difference!!! It's so much quieter too with the fans (Gelid Silent 120mmg PWM) running around 70% speed. My Kuhler 620 has a quiet pump so not sure how the new ones are since I want to get another one to cool my other 660ti. I was also wondering if it's ok to have the rad with the hoses running sideways instead of top or bottom? I don't seem to have any problems having them sideways pump is still silent and temps are great!


----------



## M3TAl

Having it sideways is fine. Nice looking build


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Very nice build and mod!


----------



## M3TAl

Is that a Lamptron fan controller too? Really wanted one of those.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Having it sideways is fine. Nice looking build


Thanks fellow Texan!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Very nice build and mod!


Thanks Mate!!!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Is that a Lamptron fan controller too? Really wanted one of those.


No it's actually a sunbeam fan controller. I've had it over a year and it's still going strong. I got 7 140mm fans and 2 120mm fans plus 2 logysis led sticks connected to it and no problems at all









Here's a link:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811995075


----------



## M3TAl

Seen that before, Sunbeam scares me haha. You never know if it's going to burn within two minutes or last 2 years+.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Seen that before, Sunbeam scares me haha. You never know if it's going to burn within two minutes or last 2 years+.


Ha ha...yeah I've read the reviews on it but at the time i was looking for one, it was the only one that had what I needed. I still look at other controller to replace it from time to time but haven't found one I like lol.


----------



## M3TAl

Lamptron makes real nice stuff, it's just a little hard to find and will cost more than some of the others.


----------



## aaroc

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Airrick10*
> 
> Well after having my Antec Kuhler 620 laying around in my closet for almost a year, I finally busted it out to cool my GTX 660Ti top Sli card. What a difference like 25c difference!!! It's so much quieter too with the fans (Gelid Silent 120mmg PWM) running around 70% speed. My Kuhler 620 has a quiet pump so not sure how the new ones are since I want to get another one to cool my other 660ti. I was also wondering if it's ok to have the rad with the hoses running sideways instead of top or bottom? I don't seem to have any problems having them sideways pump is still silent and temps are great!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


How is the SoundBlaster connected to the mobo? Very nice looking PC.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *aaroc*
> 
> How is the SoundBlaster connected to the mobo? Very nice looking PC.


Thanks AAROC!







The SoundBlaster is connected to the mobo with a PCI-e extension ribbon and it works great! Here is a link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PCI-Express-PCI-E-1X-Riser-Card-Extender-Extension-Cable-Ribbon-flex-cord-/141020651864?pt=US_Power_Cables_Connectors&hash=item20d57c6158


----------



## Airrick10

Does anybody know if I can daisy chain 2 AK 620's? For example....I'm using my 620 on my top sli video card and if I get a 2nd 620 for my other video card, can I just plug the 3-pin power to the other pumps fan header???


----------



## TheBirdman74

should work, I think mb fan headers can provide upto 30W's per channel (3pin connector) but I would just power them both from a molex if I were you, since 620's run best at 100%. (I had one on my cpu and still do on a rig)


----------



## SynchronicBoost

What really sets the 920 apart from the rest for me is the fans. They go all the way to 2500 rpm, but what's really nice is that they go all the way down to 600 RPM. Does anyone know how low the 620's fans go as well?


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> should work, I think mb fan headers can provide upto 30W's per channel (3pin connector) but I would just power them both from a molex if I were you, since 620's run best at 100%. (I had one on my cpu and still do on a rig)


Ok Thanks...I think I'll just use an extension and plug it in on one of the other motherboard fan headers. Yeah I always make sure the fan headers are running at 100%.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *TheBirdman74*
> 
> should work, I think mb fan headers can provide upto 30W's per channel (3pin connector) but I would just power them both from a molex if I were you, since 620's run best at 100%. (I had one on my cpu and still do on a rig)


Not 100% sure on this but I thought the standard for mobo fan headers was 1 Amp/ 12 watts. Guess it could be different depending on the board though.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not 100% sure on this but I thought the standard for mobo fan headers was 1 Amp/ 12 watts. Guess it could be different depending on the board though.


that was my thoughts too


----------



## Airrick10

Yeah I think I'll just play it safe when the time comes....I don't want to burn out a fan header on my mobo.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchronicBoost*
> 
> What really sets the 920 apart from the rest for me is the fans. They go all the way to 2500 rpm, but what's really nice is that they go all the way down to 600 RPM. Does anyone know how low the 620's fans go as well?


I don't know exact numbers, but they go pretty low. I would say under 1000rpm as well.


----------



## cripto25

good I have a 'antec Kuhler 620 v4 "with a chip on the motherboard burned and I can not see the identification. Did you uncover your soul who fotografie antec 620 and the chip or tell me your ID? PD. (no need to remove any screws just pulling the lid open) set attached photos

antec kuhler 620 v4.jpg 114k .jpg file


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Then that would definitely be the differentiator over going with other Asetek units then. The Thermaltake versions of this has fans that won't go that low.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchronicBoost*
> 
> Then that would definitely be the differentiator over going with other Asetek units then. The Thermaltake versions of this has fans that won't go that low.


If I'm not mistaken the 620's fans are identical to the 920's.
Someone with both would have to confirm, or take a close up of their 620 fans and I'll be able to confirm via my 920 fans.


----------



## M3TAl

Actually I think they're different fans though I haven't personally checked. Will do later, got Half-Life 2 in steam sale so kind of busy


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha ok thanks bro


----------



## M3TAl

Looking at them right now and they're different. The 620 fan of course is 3-pin but it has less blades (7 blades) and they're less curved.

The 920 fans are 4-pin with 9 blades and have a much sharper curve to them.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Looking at them right now and they're different. The 620 fan of course is 3-pin but it has less blades (7 blades) and they're less curved.
> 
> The 920 fans are 4-pin with 9 blades and have a much sharper curve to them.


but RPM wise are they the same?


----------



## M3TAl

The 920 fans are supposed to have a much wider RPM range (700-2400 RPM). The 620 fan is listed as 1450-2000 RPM though I feel like on my old fan controller it would run below 1450 RPM.

The 620 fan actually doesn't even have an RPM wire (or at least mine doesn't), only a Power and Ground. If using it with a fan controller it needs to be one that doesn't work off/read RPM. Otherwise it will run full 12V constantly.


----------



## kalidae

Anybody overclocked a fx8350 using the 920? I got 2 sp120 performance editions running on full ball and my 8350 clocked at 4.4ghz 1.26v and with prime 95 I'm hitting 60C. Does this sound right?


----------



## M3TAl

No, that's very wrong. Some things to check.

Are you reading the correct temperature and not a motherboard sensor? You want core/package temp which max recommended from AMD is 62C though going around 65C for short periods of time is ok. Are the fans setup correctly as push/pull? Maybe they're accidentally running as pull/pull or push/push. Is the pump/block mounted properly? What TIM application method did you use?

Some things to consider for comparison. I've got an 8320 on a 920 with push/pull Cougar Vortex PWM fans (1500 RPM). Ambient is anywhere from 26-30C in the room. P95 will get mine in the low 60's around 1.47-1.49V's after a good 20 minute run or so. My 8320 is a very poor 8320 as far as OC goes. It takes 1.55V for 4.6ghz P95/IBT AVX stable. Most 8350's should be able to do 4.6ghz at 1.45V (1.45 is on the higher side) or less.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> No, that's very wrong. Some things to check.
> 
> Are you reading the correct temperature and not a motherboard sensor? You want core/package temp which max recommended from AMD is 62C though going around 65C for short periods of time is ok. Are the fans setup correctly as push/pull? Maybe they're accidentally running as pull/pull or push/push. Is the pump/block mounted properly? What TIM application method did you use?
> 
> Some things to consider for comparison. I've got an 8320 on a 920 with push/pull Cougar Vortex PWM fans (1500 RPM). Ambient is anywhere from 26-30C in the room. P95 will get mine in the low 60's around 1.47-1.49V's after a good 20 minute run or so. My 8320 is a very poor 8320 as far as OC goes. It takes 1.55V for 4.6ghz P95/IBT AVX stable. Most 8350's should be able to do 4.6ghz at 1.45V (1.45 is on the higher side) or less.


Thank you for your reply.

I'm reading the right sensor, I have used speed fan and occt to check the temps and both are always the same. The fans are definitely in push pull and my case is very cool inside (haf xb). I am using arctic silver 5, perhaps I'm not applying it properly? Also I know I have a hard time putting the heat sink on evenly, probably ruining the the thermal paste. It's hard to screw the 4 screws into the Mounting bracket and not touch the CPU while I'm mounting it. My screws and the mounting bracket don't line up completely perfect.


----------



## M3TAl

As far as I can tell Speed Fan doesn't show core temp. It's showing 3 motherboard sensors, HDD and GPU. You wan't core temp which is shown in HWiNFO64 in this picture.

Btw the core temp is completely inaccurate when IDLE. It's this way by design. At LOAD it is accurate though.


----------



## kalidae

I thought temp 1 on speed fan was core temp? I have used speed fan for my old intel CPUs and speedfan did always have them labeled as "core", this is my first AMD CPU so I thought it was a little strange. Still, occt I'm sure (started using it last night) says CPU temp and its the same As the temp that speed fan shows. Ill have to download that program u just showed me and check it out because I must be missing something.


----------



## M3TAl

Try HwMonitor from CPUID or HWiNFO.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Try HwMonitor from CPUID or HWiNFO.


I get home in about an hour so ill download them and give it a go.


----------



## kalidae

I was looking at the wrong sensors! That's a relief. I was thinking "this cooler is as good as an average air cooler". I'm about 10 mins in to p95 and the temp is sitting at 48c. Hwmonitor and hwinfo report slightly different but are pretty much the same. I only just applied the as5 yesterday so it's still going through the break in process and the ambient temp is warmer today than usual so I'm expecting some better temps in a few days


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The 920 fans are supposed to have a much wider RPM range (700-2400 RPM). The 620 fan is listed as 1450-2000 RPM though I feel like on my old fan controller it would run below 1450 RPM.
> 
> The 620 fan actually doesn't even have an RPM wire (or at least mine doesn't), only a Power and Ground. If using it with a fan controller it needs to be one that doesn't work off/read RPM. Otherwise it will run full 12V constantly.


My 620 fans seem to run lower than 1450 as well. They are very silent. I control them with Fan Xpert, part of ASUS Suite's software package. And Im easily able to control the fan speeds. SO however it is doing it with only the 2 wires, it is still able to control RPM.


----------



## kalidae

So far I got my 8350 at 4.6ghz 1.30v and a max temp of 52c after 8.5 hours of P95. I'm quite happy!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Very nice dude


----------



## M3TAl

That voltage








. Insane!

Can you give me your address so I can come rob you of a golden 8350??? Frequent flyer miles will make the trip worth it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hahaha


----------



## kalidae

Indeed! I got very lucky with this chip. I'm pretty stoked but mostly I'm just really happy with the 920. I thought it sucked but its actually really good. I was thinking that I'd just buy a custom loop, I even chose all the parts and priced it and everything! Don't want the custom loop anymore. 920 FTW I may go for 4.7 and 4.8ghz when I have time.


----------



## M3TAl

I still want a custom loop, very very badly. The water cooling bug, it's inside me! Ahhhh!!?!?


----------



## kalidae

Haha I know the feeling! My Mrs is starting to get on my case (and my nerves) about spending money on my computer. It's got to the stage where I have to be sneaky! Wait for her to go to work then I quickly install my new parts haha. I wouldn't be able to get away with a custom loop


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The 920 fans are supposed to have a much wider RPM range (700-2400 RPM). The 620 fan is listed as 1450-2000 RPM though I feel like on my old fan controller it would run below 1450 RPM.
> 
> The 620 fan actually doesn't even have an RPM wire (or at least mine doesn't), only a Power and Ground. If using it with a fan controller it needs to be one that doesn't work off/read RPM. Otherwise it will run full 12V constantly.


Looked on a retail box today and this is what I'm seeing too, that it can't go very low in RPM. This is honestly what makes the 920 that much better of a buy.


----------



## Destrto

The stock fans on my 620's are inaudible (even when sitting next to the case) until about 60%.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Well - I wouldn't use the 920's fans personally if you are going to be under load for a while - ie. folding.
Or else you might be the new aircraft carrier


----------



## kalidae

Would there be any benefit to replacing the stock rad with a Black Ice SR1 120? Would this improve temps at all? I wouldn't imagine the stock antec rad would be of great quality.


----------



## M3TAl

It probably would considering that rad is copper and a good one at that. How much is anyone's guess.


----------



## kalidae

I might have to get one and try. I want to hit 5ghz! So far I'm at 4.8ghz 1.38v and 58c 30mins into p95. It's been quite a large voltage increase to get this far, core 4 kept failing on me.

Since I'm going to keep this 920 and forget the custom loop, might aswell customise the 920! Muahaha


----------



## SynchronicBoost

I got to 5 ghz on the 920, stable on regular windows, but not hardcore benching, and yes, lots of voltage


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> I might have to get one and try. I want to hit 5ghz! So far I'm at 4.8ghz 1.38v and 58c 30mins into p95. It's been quite a large voltage increase to get this far, core 4 kept failing on me.
> 
> Since I'm going to keep this 920 and forget the custom loop, might aswell customise the 920! Muahaha


Really does sound like a golden chip or close to it with that voltage. But what's your ambient? Don't think this 8320 hits ~60C until 1.45V'ish (which is typically near the volt/temp limit for a 920 + 8320/8350).


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Really does sound like a golden chip or close to it with that voltage. But what's your ambient? Don't think this 8320 hits ~60C until 1.45V'ish (which is typically near the volt/temp limit for a 920 + 8320/8350).


It's winter here so it's quite cool. It would be 20C or below. It wasn't stable at that clock last night. It hit 60 and a clock failed so I gave up went to bed. But it went for a couple of hours before the stress test failed.


----------



## M3TAl

You may still have a temp problem. A 20C ambient + 1.38V + 60C =









Is that 1.38V in bios or what is actually going on during load?


----------



## kalidae

That's 1.38 in bios, that I set. It's quite a large jump on temp however when I did the stress test with the 4.6ghz clock, it dropped back 2 degrees from its max temp during the test. I'm thinking if this 4.8 clock would have went a bit longer then it probably would have eventually dropped back to 58.

Edit- my thermal paste is still going through its break in cycle so that could be why the temps a hot.


----------



## kalidae

Oh I see what's going on. I just dropped the CPU back to 1.33v on bios and clocked it at 4.7ghz. Running the stress test and opened up CPU z which says vcore 1.392 under load. Why is it running at 1.392 when I set it for 1.33? Is 1.33v at idle? I'm a little confused but that explains my heat.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> Oh I see what's going on. I just dropped the CPU back to 1.33v on bios and clocked it at 4.7ghz. Running the stress test and opened up CPU z which says vcore 1.392 under load. Why is it running at 1.392 when I set it for 1.33? Is 1.33v at idle? I'm a little confused but that explains my heat.


Your LLC bro.
Your LLC is pushing it OVER of what it should be - called overshooting.


----------



## kalidae

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Your LLC bro.
> Your LLC is pushing it OVER of what it should be - called overshooting.


Ah okay. It's normal though? What should I have my LLC set to in bios? I have a sabertooth MB.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kalidae*
> 
> Ah okay. It's normal though? What should I have my LLC set to in bios? I have a sabertooth MB.


yup - you need to set your LLC - not to AUTO but to a certain amount (depending on your chip) - ie 50%/normal LLC or ULTRA LLC.

Check guides on how to OC - can't comment for AMD - but the intel one is extremely useful http://www.overclock.net/t/1291703/ivy-bridge-overclocking-guide-asus-motherboards


----------



## M3TAl

LLC is typically a good thing, you want LLC. Although you can run without it (some boards like some MSI and rev 1.0 Giga have no LLC at all). Still with 1.4V during load your temp still seems a little high with a 20C ambient.

The sabertooth is typically the best overclocking board for AMD, even better than CHV/CHV-Z but I'm not familiar with the settings for it. There are a lot of experienced users in the Vishera Owners thread with sabertooths that can help you.


----------



## kalidae

Thanks guys. I think ill just stick with the 4.6ghz stable clock for now. Volts and temps were good. I'm a bit over all the stress testing haha. I haven't done any overclocking for years, since the Q6600 was released. I had forgotten most of how to do it. You guys really refreshed my memory. Thanks heaps!


----------



## M3TAl

If you wan't to compare temps sometime we can both clock to 4ghz and match voltages. This chip of mine takes 1.55V for 4.6ghz rock solid stable and 4.8ghz is out of the question. 1.55V gives 65-70C so stress testing at that is a no go.


----------



## Gereti

I was thinking to buy one of these with 620, that will work enought?
http://www.aquatuning.co.uk/product_info.php/info/p15211_Phobya-NB-eLoop-1600rpm---Bionic-Fan---120x120x25mm--.html
i was thinking that one, what you guy's think of that?


----------



## M3TAl

Seems to be a NoiseBlocker fan but I don't know that the static pressure is high enough.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1289723/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-120mm-bionic-loop-propeller-fans


----------



## Gereti

http://www.overclock.net/t/1289723/noiseblocker-nb-eloop-120mm-bionic-loop-propeller-fans/20
Umm, like allways, it's hard now too to choose one good fan...
difficult difficult difficult difficult....
noiceblocker http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/ELOOP-B12-3
Phobya http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/AT78373
Corsair http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/CO-9050007-WW
Noctua http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/NF-P12-1300
but then the question, what i buy... red fan would be the best but...
searchin 3pin fan's becose have zalman fanmate 2...


----------



## kalidae

Hey guys will the 920 be able to run with a 240 rad? Was thinking of getting the black ice sr1 240. If not ill get the sr1 120. I want to ditch the stock rad.


----------



## M3TAl

The pumps are very weak. Don't think anyone has the actual flow rate of a 620/920 pump but some one has the flow rate for the original H100. It's not much, something like 0.1-0.2 GPM. Expect the 620/920 to be close to that.


----------



## kalidae

The h100 is a 240 isnt it? Hmmm so I may be able to get away with a 240 rad for a while? Also the tubing will be 3/8 ID. Hmmm. It could be problematic.


----------



## M3TAl

Are you talking about running only a 240? As long as it's a rad with low flow restriction you will probably be fine.

Adding more than that will be a problem most likely.


----------



## kalidae

Yeah just the 240 rad by itself. I'm thinking the sr1 240. The more I think about then the more I want a custom loop haha. I keep sucking myself in.


----------



## alanfx8150

Hello guys. Sorry I can't do all the quote formatting etc but I'm using my phone at work. I would say 60 is way too high. I'm using a different cpu, I had the 920 with an Fx8150 overclocked to 4.462 - 255 bus with 17.5 multiplier (cpu @ 1.4v). On the hottest day of the year it reached 51 degrees but it normally never goes above 45.

I've currently disassembled the computer as I'm replacing the 920 with an antec 1220 - top mounted in an antec 1200 case







.


----------



## M3TAl

51C doing what though, normal usage? Or P95/IBT etc...


----------



## alanfx8150

Apologies I forgot to mention! Both the temps were with running prime95


----------



## silvyan

Hello,

I have an Antec Kühler H2O 620 with a non pwm noctua nfp12. I want to make a low cost upgrade.

1) Can i use this to plug two fan on my 620, like the 920 does, or will it damage my Kühler or my motherboard ?

2) rigth now my non pwm noctua is always at full, will a pwm adjust his speed to the Kühler need ?

3) I plan to use this two fan on a pull / push config, is there a well know better alternative for the Kühler ?

ty.

ps : i'm not a fluent english speaker, sorry


----------



## M3TAl

1) That adapter will work to run two fans but they will both run at 100%

2) If connected to a motherboard PWM header you can adjust it based on CPU temps. Connecting them to the 620 won't control the speed.

3) Not sure what this question means exactly. Better use for the 620? Like on a GPU?


----------



## silvyan

1 & 2) so there is no way i can have two pwm fan with their speed manage by the pomp ? if i connect the adapter to the pomp with two pwm fan, they will still run at full speed ? what for the Kühler920, the two fan connect to it are always at 100% ? so sad.

3) i wish an advice for a fan replacement of my Kühler H2O 620. Is there one that is know to suit well with the Kühler ?


----------



## kalidae

To replace the fans on my 920, I used 2x corsair sp120 fans. They were better than stock and much quieter. I hear scythe gental typhoons are even better. I had my fans hooked up to a fan controller and kept them at about 1700rpm for the most part. They were quiet at that rpm. I'd crank them to 12v when stress testing.

Just upgraded to a h110 yesterday so no longer using the 920.


----------



## M3TAl

No a 920 will work with PWM fans, a 620 will not.

Any fan with decent static pressure will work well. it's a matter of how loud you want the fans to be.


----------



## silvyan

ok, so the Kuhler 620 can't control the fan. the only way to not always being at max is to plug them on the motherboard fan controller or an external fan controller. that not cool, but i think i can live with it.

I would have take the 920 just for this if i have known before.

ty M3TAl and kalidae


----------



## M3TAl

Nothing wrong with using the motherboard to control the fans though. My preferred method is a fan controller for most things, although I use the 920 for two PWM Cougar Vortex fans.

Planning to go full custom loop by Christmas time anyways. It's going to be fun








.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Nothing wrong with using the motherboard to control the fans though. My preferred method is a fan controller for most things, although I use the 920 for two PWM Cougar Vortex fans.
> 
> Planning to go full custom loop by Christmas time anyways. It's going to be fun
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


I plan to go full custom loop around christmas as well! Should be alot of fun!

Also, mounted Sigma_Cool's brackets to my 620's, temps are so much better than the ziptie method.


----------



## M3TAl

My dwood bracket install didn't go so well, was near impossible to get it on and tightened(really,really needed 4 hands for it)... If actually TIM'ed/mounted correctly the temps on this 7870 XT should be 5-10C better. It gets to 60-62C in something like Crysis 3 with fans maxed, more like 55C in BF3.

What are your plans for loop so far?

I don't have much to spend on a loop so going Raysotrm RX240 kit and probably a 30mm thick Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm rad. Already scored some used black chrome Monsoon compression fittings off eBay for a real nice price. Eventually when money allows an universal GPU block will be added.

Really want to sell the Raystorm block and get an EK Supremacy Clean/Plexi/Clear whatever it's called but that's mostly wishful hoping.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I plan to go full custom loop around christmas as well! Should be alot of fun!
> 
> Also, mounted Sigma_Cool's brackets to my 620's, temps are so much better than the ziptie method.


How did your sigma cool mounting go? I ordered one to put my 620 on my hd 6850 just waiting for it to come in to put it on hoping it goes smoothly.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My dwood bracket install didn't go so well, was near impossible to get it on and tightened(really,really needed 4 hands for it)... If actually TIM'ed/mounted correctly the temps on this 7870 XT should be 5-10C better. It gets to 60-62C in something like Crysis 3 with fans maxed, more like 55C in BF3.
> 
> What are your plans for loop so far?
> 
> I don't have much to spend on a loop so going Raysotrm RX240 kit and probably a 30mm thick Alphacool NexXxos ST30 240mm rad. Already scored some used black chrome Monsoon compression fittings off eBay for a real nice price. Eventually when money allows an universal GPU block will be added.
> 
> Really want to sell the Raystorm block and get an EK Supremacy Clean/Plexi/Clear whatever it's called but that's mostly wishful hoping.


@ spikezone,My Sigma_Cool mounts were painless to install. I have 2 6850's I did the mod to. Had both mounted and back in my board in about 15 minutes.

M3TAl, If you're still interested in trying them out, give CHModlabs a shout.

My plans so far will only run me about $300. It includes an XSPC Raystorm CPU block, an XSPC EX360 Crossflow rad, an XSPC ex240 (possibly crossflow as well), and an XSPC pump res combo with a Laing DDC (i believe?) 3/8" ID tubing probably with barb fittings all around. Nothing fancy, just something nice and simple that will leave room for GPU blocks in the future, and be easy enough to transfer into a different case if i decide to go that route. By christmas I hope to be able to afford the Azza Genesis 9000.

SHow me your Raystorm block? is it for AMD?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I have my 920 setup connected to the motherboard, works better like that.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> How did your sigma cool mounting go? I ordered one to put my 620 on my hd 6850 just waiting for it to come in to put it on hoping it goes smoothly.


He probably shipped a shim with yours, the 68xx series do not need it.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> @ spikezone,My Sigma_Cool mounts were painless to install. I have 2 6850's I did the mod to. Had both mounted and back in my board in about 15 minutes.
> 
> M3TAl, If you're still interested in trying them out, give CHModlabs a shout.
> 
> My plans so far will only run me about $300. It includes an XSPC Raystorm CPU block, an XSPC EX360 Crossflow rad, an XSPC ex240 (possibly crossflow as well), and an XSPC pump res combo with a Laing DDC (i believe?) 3/8" ID tubing probably with barb fittings all around. Nothing fancy, just something nice and simple that will leave room for GPU blocks in the future, and be easy enough to transfer into a different case if i decide to go that route. By christmas I hope to be able to afford the Azza Genesis 9000.
> 
> SHow me your Raystorm block? is it for AMD?


I meant once the kit is in my hands I really want to just sell the block right away and buy the Supremacy. I'm just really in love with that block for some reason (not the one with the circles, the clear one). Might get Mayhems Pastel Ice White dye/additive so a clear plexi block would look awesome with my black and white case, black motherboard, and black chrome compressions. Have white LED's in there too.

Any particular reason for all the crossflow rads? It's so much more expensive to buy these XSPC or any parts separately







. The kits are such an awesome value for the $$$. As you probably already know XSPC has kits with the D5 res/pump combo (~5GPM & ~5psi) that would come with an EX360 or EX240 (not crossflow though), then you just have to buy the 2nd rad separately.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> @ spikezone,My Sigma_Cool mounts were painless to install. I have 2 6850's I did the mod to. Had both mounted and back in my board in about 15 minutes.
> 
> M3TAl, If you're still interested in trying them out, give CHModlabs a shout.
> 
> My plans so far will only run me about $300. It includes an XSPC Raystorm CPU block, an XSPC EX360 Crossflow rad, an XSPC ex240 (possibly crossflow as well), and an XSPC pump res combo with a Laing DDC (i believe?) 3/8" ID tubing probably with barb fittings all around. Nothing fancy, just something nice and simple that will leave room for GPU blocks in the future, and be easy enough to transfer into a different case if i decide to go that route. By christmas I hope to be able to afford the Azza Genesis 9000.
> 
> SHow me your Raystorm block? is it for AMD?


Well I am glad to hear that it was painless and you have the same cards as me lol

What mod did you do aswell? do you need to cool the vrm on the cards since it doesnt have the heatsink anymore and air blowing onto the card?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I meant once the kit is in my hands I really want to just sell the block right away and buy the Supremacy. I'm just really in love with that block for some reason (not the one with the circles, the clear one). Might get Mayhems Pastel Ice White dye/additive so a clear plexi block would look awesome with my black and white case, black motherboard, and black chrome compressions. Have white LED's in there too.
> 
> Any particular reason for all the crossflow rads? It's so much more expensive to buy these XSPC or any parts separately
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . The kits are such an awesome value for the $$$. As you probably already know XSPC has kits with the D5 res/pump combo (~5GPM & ~5psi) that would come with an EX360 or EX240 (not crossflow though), then you just have to buy the 2nd rad separately.


I picked out the crossflow rads because of the placement I want for them in my case. They will allow for a cleaner tubing layout over all and make for an easier time upgrading to GPU blocks later. I'll have a look at the kits though, to see if what I've picked out might be any cheaper. Right now I dont think $300 for everything is too bad.

Which Raystorm block did you have?

EDIT: Just looked through the kits for XSPC, 1. they dont have the CPU block i want. 2. like you mentioned, no crossflow rads. 3. Most of the cheaper kits come with the black pump/res which has many known issues with bowing out and causing leaks.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Well I am glad to hear that it was painless and you have the same cards as me lol
> 
> What mod did you do aswell? do you need to cool the vrm on the cards since it doesnt have the heatsink anymore and air blowing onto the card?


The other mod I did was added a custom made Mosfet heatsink to each one, and VRM heatsinks. They run so much cooler without the stock heatsink blowing hot air right onto the card. The only air I have blowing across them now is from my side fans, which are the slim High speed Yate Loons, and regular High speed Yate Loons on the radiators blowing towards the back of the case. All the Yate Loons are running at 5V to keep them quiet.

I just played Diablo 3 last night and didnt see anything above 42C on either card. Before this new bracket I was getting close to 53C on the top card.


----------



## Destrto

List of parts I'm currently looking at.


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!



CPU - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=32332:a5d2624318961219e45b85f1457ca307

Radiator 1 - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=34297:3fec4d8c234f987a717e321083894a63

Radiator 2 - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=59_457_667_671&products_id=34298

Pump/Res - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=36961:faa4264934d2568e2db9ba9f551846ce

Fittings - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=31195

Fans - http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=36_1130_49_1051&products_id=22033



Havent decided on the type of fluid yet. But i'm not very big on colors, so I might just get something clear. My total right now, even though the 240 rad is on backorder, is right above $300 before shipping. To me, that's not bad.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> I picked out the crossflow rads because of the placement I want for them in my case. They will allow for a cleaner tubing layout over all and make for an easier time upgrading to GPU blocks later. I'll have a look at the kits though, to see if what I've picked out might be any cheaper. Right now I dont think $300 for everything is too bad.
> 
> Which Raystorm block did you have?
> 
> EDIT: Just looked through the kits for XSPC, 1. they dont have the CPU block i want. 2. like you mentioned, no crossflow rads. 3. Most of the cheaper kits come with the black pump/res which has many known issues with bowing out and causing leaks.


Saying I never had the Raystorm block but once I do have it with the kit I want to sell it. I have nothing against the Raystorm block, I'm just a little obsessed with that EK Supremacy.

The kits all come with the Raystorm block (including brackets for AMD) although the most expensive come with the full copper Raystorm block. The block in the kits is the block you posted from performance-pcs.

You might want to look at the Alphacool NexXxos ST30 rads (30mm thick), still not crossflow though







. They perform amazingly with slow speed fans (600-1000 RPM) and it's only $42.99 on performance-pcs for the 240mm. Here's two reviews: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/ & http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1720172

The Res top bowing and leaking is the only thing I'm worried about but hopefully that doesn't happen







.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Saying I never had the Raystorm block but once I do have it with the kit I want to sell it. I have nothing against the Raystorm block, I'm just a little obsessed with that EK Supremacy.
> 
> The kits all come with the Raystorm block (including brackets for AMD) although the most expensive come with the full copper Raystorm block. The block in the kits is the block you posted from performance-pcs.
> 
> You might want to look at the Alphacool NexXxos ST30 rads (30mm thick), still not crossflow though
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . They perform amazingly with slow speed fans (600-1000 RPM) and it's only $42.99 on performance-pcs for the 240mm. Here's two reviews: http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/05/01/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-360-radiator/ & http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1720172
> 
> The Res top bowing and leaking is the only thing I'm worried about but hopefully that doesn't happen
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Ah i gotcha. Well, from the pictures, they arent the same block as the one I've picked out. The block is an Intel block with Amd mounting and brackets. Those are universal blocks, and I want the actual AMD block. I really just want that block for the looks, haha. I like the brushed black color, and a lot of it.

The XSPC crossflow radiators are just a few dollars more than the Alphacool St30's. I really just want the one crossflow radiator for the top of the case in my lay out. Since it would make for a much much cleaner display of tubing, as the pump would be right at the one inlet, and the outlet would be almost directly on top of the inlet on the Cpu block. I've looked through almost every company that offers water cooling parts for the best fit. I only wish they had a crossflow 480.

Although I do like that the Alphacool St30's are slimmer than the XSPC EX models by 5.5mm, which would come in handy for sure. And I was actually advised in the water cooling thread to go for a regular 240, and not a crossflow, so that I would get a better tubing route back to the Pump in the design I had laid out. However, i would like that some of the pieces be the same brand/design. And random radiators and pieces thrown together, to me, just looks bad.

Dont know if I mentioned it before, but picture this setup going into an Azza genesis 9000.


----------



## spikezone2004

Is it neccesary to put mosfets on the vrm heatsinks and anything else? I was just going to have the 620 on it, didn't think about the rest. I will have about half a 140m fan blowing on the card and a side fan blowing on the back so hopefully that will be enough


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Is it neccesary to put mosfets on the vrm heatsinks and anything else? I was just going to have the 620 on it, didn't think about the rest. I will have about half a 140m fan blowing on the card and a side fan blowing on the back so hopefully that will be enough


They arent necessary, I was just offered these custom heatsinks by another member so I obliged him.

As long as you have some sort of airflow over the card to move that hot air that comes off during gaming, you should be fine with just the VRM heatsinks. They can be found for pretty cheap on Ebay. Think I paid 10 bucks for 2 packs of 8.


----------



## spikezone2004

What did you apply them with just regular thermal paste? do you happen to have any pics of your gpu?

If I need to get mosfets for it I will, dont want to fry anything but if i dont necessarily need them I wont get them, it will probably be a little bit till I get my sigma cool mount. how long did it take to get yours?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> What did you apply them with just regular thermal paste? do you happen to have any pics of your gpu?
> 
> If I need to get mosfets for it I will, dont want to fry anything but if i dont necessarily need them I wont get them, it will probably be a little bit till I get my sigma cool mount. how long did it take to get yours?


The pics of the Sigma kool mounts were of my GPU. The Heatsinks came with preapplied thermal tape on each one.


----------



## Roph

I handled VRM cooling in 2 ways. First I used these copper heatsinks on the VRMs themselves (they come with pre-applied sony chemical adhesive on the back, after a few heat cycles the bond is very strong), and secondly I taped up the little gaps between the push/pull fans and the radiator itself, *except* the gaps facing down towards the VRMs. This sends some stray airflow down there.

Here's how it looks:


----------



## magicase

The 920 is the same as a Thermaltake water 2 pro correct? If it is then technically it should perform the same with the fans and cpu clocks?


----------



## Maximization

does the stock TIM degrade overtime on the 920? i had my first thermal shutdown while benchmarking, i have had it since December this has never happened.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> does the stock TIM degrade overtime on the 920? i had my first thermal shutdown while benchmarking, i have had it since December this has never happened.


It shouldnt degrade that quickly. but just for safety sake, check it to see if it hasnt been scraped off by some unknown reason and no longer making contact with any TIM.


----------



## spikezone2004

I will have to order some of those then if I need them, will it be ok to use my gpu for a little bit until I get them? (assuming i get my sigma cool mount soon)


----------



## M3TAl

If the VRM temps are under 90-100C during intensive gaming then you don't need them.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> does the stock TIM degrade overtime on the 920? i had my first thermal shutdown while benchmarking, i have had it since December this has never happened.


It's not supposed to but there has been pics posted in this very thread of the stock TIM completely dried out/cracking.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I will have to order some of those then if I need them, will it be ok to use my gpu for a little bit until I get them? (assuming i get my sigma cool mount soon)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If the VRM temps are under 90-100C during intensive gaming then you don't need them.


This^

My VRMs ran cooler with the stock heatsink off and just air blowing across them with no aftermarket heatsink attached.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> This^
> 
> My VRMs ran cooler with the stock heatsink off and just air blowing across them with no aftermarket heatsink attached.


Just curious as to which are my vrm temps, I have GPU thermal which is the main one. then TS0 DispIO, TS1 MemIO and TS2 Shader all 1 degree different


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Just curious as to which are my vrm temps, I have GPU thermal which is the main one. then TS0 DispIO, TS1 MemIO and TS2 Shader all 1 degree different


In which program? GPU-z? Im not sure which ones they are. I just guessed in GPU-Z and picked the second one. All 3 readings of mine are within 1 degree of each other as well..


----------



## spikezone2004

I am using HWiNNFO64. when gaming they go further apart from each other temperature wise


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Stock TIM shouldn't degrade, however in the OP you'll see me document my experience with the bad realisation of the dry TIM after only a few months. As much as I can appreciate TIM provided by manufacturers, it really shouldn't do what I found it to do, after such a short period of time. That's why I suggest anyone installing the coolers to change TIM.


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Stock TIM shouldn't degrade, however in the OP you'll see me document my experience with the bad realisation of the dry TIM after only a few months. As much as I can appreciate TIM provided by manufacturers, it really shouldn't do what I found it to do, after such a short period of time. That's why I suggest anyone installing the coolers to change TIM.


suggestions, i have an old arctic silver but whats the best?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I wouldn't use as5. There's no really 'best' as there is so many different pastes and tests that were conducted differently.
I would get something like mx4. I have mx2, which is older, but works excellently.
Put it this way: when I run out of paste (I haven't done so in the last 3 years, on the same paste) I'll buy mx4


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> suggestions, i have an old arctic silver but whats the best?


What TD said...I've used MX-4 or Gelid GC Extreme. I used the GC Extreme on my current GTX 660Ti Mod with an AK620 and I haven't seen temps go above 45c!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> suggestions, i have an old arctic silver but whats the best?


Best... depends how much $ you want to spend and how difficult of an install you're willing to tolerate.

Any of the top ~10 or so regular pastes will do just fine. Then there is the more extreme stuff like Liquid Pro/Ultra and Indigo Xtreme which can sometimes net you a good 4-5C better than regular pastes. These pastes are expensive and very difficult to work with and remove though. I believe removing either Liquid Ultra or Pro can void warranty on the CPU because it scrapes off the serial number and other things on the chip.


----------



## Destrto

I actually just bought some Arctic Silver Ceramique 2 from Sidewinder for really cheap. Going to reapply my CPU and 2 GPU mounts with it in a little while.

However, with the few different pastes Ive used, I havent noticed much, if any difference in temps between any of the different types of pastes.


----------



## Airrick10

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Best... depends how much $ you want to spend and how difficult of an install you're willing to tolerate.
> 
> Any of the top ~10 or so regular pastes will do just fine. Then there is the more extreme stuff like Liquid Pro/Ultra and Indigo Xtreme which can sometimes net you a good 4-5C better than regular pastes. These pastes are expensive and very difficult to work with and remove though. I believe removing either Liquid Ultra or Pro can void warranty on the CPU because it scrapes off the serial number and other things on the chip.


You are right about the liquid pro ultra removal procedure scratching the cpu....I just recently switched my heat sink and I had to use the included pad to remove some left over liquid ultra that didn't want to come off with alcohol. It almost erased whatever was printed on the heat sink.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yup clu/p is known to do that, thus why I don't use it on the ihs.
Also paste application (dot or line etc and amount used) is also very important for temps.
I would say the difference between bad paste with bad application vs good paste and good application nets you about 10c difference in temps, especially in the long run


----------



## Maximization

Ordered the mx3...spread with credit card? I got the artic clean so I can clean good


----------



## spikezone2004

I believe the top 4 application methods are dot in the middle, line, a cross, and spread thin with a credit card or something.

I have only used dot and cross. I think I am going to try the cross method again i just dont know how much to use with that seems like a lot but I dont want too little, so I have to find the median.

As for my GPU VRM temps I will probably do that same thing since they are all very similar in temp. I am going to run valley benchmark and OCCT stress test see what temps I get now and after I put on 620.

Destrto how long did it take to get your sigma cool mount after you ordered it?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I believe the top 4 application methods are dot in the middle, line, a cross, and spread thin with a credit card or something.
> 
> I have only used dot and cross. I think I am going to try the cross method again i just dont know how much to use with that seems like a lot but I dont want too little, so I have to find the median.
> 
> As for my GPU VRM temps I will probably do that same thing since they are all very similar in temp. I am going to run valley benchmark and OCCT stress test see what temps I get now and after I put on 620.
> 
> Destrto how long did it take to get your sigma cool mount after you ordered it?


Well, I had a shipping issue with my first order. And I live one state away from where it's shipped from, so it only took 2 days. But I should mention that he also shipped it using USPS 2 day, because it was a re-ship. The first shipment was standard 3 day from USPS, I think it arrived in 2 still.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Ordered the mx3...spread with credit card? I got the artic clean so I can clean good


Rubbing alcohol and a coffee filter has been the easiest thing to clean off old TIM for me.

I used to use the credit card method for a very long time until I started trying this silicone based TIM, it's a little thinner than others Ive tried so it didnt spread very evenly with that particular method.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Well, I had a shipping issue with my first order. And I live one state away from where it's shipped from, so it only took 2 days. But I should mention that he also shipped it using USPS 2 day, because it was a re-ship. The first shipment was standard 3 day from USPS, I think it arrived in 2 still.


You got yours 2 days after ordering? I wonder if I should email them, All I have gotten is a order confirmation email and nothing else saying that it has been shipped.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> You got yours 2 days after ordering? I wonder if I should email them, All I have gotten is a order confirmation email and nothing else saying that it has been shipped.


Not after ordering, my mistake. The first time it took maybe 2-3 weeks total?

He is most likely catching up on orders as he was out of state for a week or so.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> Ordered the mx3...spread with credit card? I got the artic clean so I can clean good


Not a fan of spread. I've tried X and dot, dot seems to work the best for me. Intel CPU's dies are more of a long rectangle though correct? Or is that only the 6 cores? A line might work better in that scenario.

AMD's are much more square and in the middle so dot works just fine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

For Intel: small line down the ihs is the best for me.
That or mini dot method.
Spread is the worst.


----------



## TheBirdman74

Hey Guys, I got a Antec Kuhler 620 and was thinking to add a H100i in there. so one to cool the GPU aswell, I have already replaced the pipes with clear ones and added a little res and was wondering can I add a H100 to it now the I could use thw 120mm radiator plus the 240 on the H100i

Something like 620 > h100i > Radiator 120mm, Radiator 240mm >Res>620



Anybody know the pump pressure, flow or speed for them? will they burn out if I added the H100i pump in serial?


----------



## M3TAl

I haven't seen anyone with the pump info for the Kuhlers but the H100 and H100i pumps specs are known. One can only assume the Kuhlers are very close to the H100's.


----------



## TheBirdman74

could you link me to them, cant seem to be able to dig up much on the kuhler or the h100i pump info such as rpm. (I run them from molex 100%)

i want to do something like this.

*Kuhler 620 pump > h100i pump> Corsair 240 rad > Antec 120mm Rad > Res > Kuhler 620 pump*

you dont think in a setup like that would burn the kuhler or corsair pump up do you? I would have gotten another kuhler 620 but the h100i has a bigger and better radiator then the kuhler 620 so if it works I would opt for the h100i instead!


----------



## M3TAl

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/13/corsair-hydro-series-h100i-aio-cpu-cooler/5/

That should have almost everything you need about the H100i. The H100i and H100 are both CoolIT models but I'm not 100% sure the pumps are the same.

Someone else either on youtube or a forum somewhere has the flow for the original H100.


----------



## Ehlak

Hey guys, I have a question about my 620. Is it suppose to make noise? Because mine is dead silent, and it's very hot on touch. Does this mean my pump is dead? I am also getting extreme load temperatures. Up to 90-95c. It idles around 50c. The CPU is an Intel i5 2500k .

Thanks in advance.


----------



## M3TAl

It should make a very, very small amount of noise. There's videos in the OP.

Those temps are way too high. Are you sure the pump is plugged in?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Those temps, especially idle are way too high


----------



## Ehlak

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> It should make a very, very small amount of noise. There's videos in the OP.
> 
> Those temps are way too high. Are you sure the pump is plugged in?


The pump is plugged in to the motherboard just like the manual tells you to do.

I've had the 620 for about 7 months and it's been working fine until just recently.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ehlak*
> 
> The pump is plugged in to the motherboard just like the manual tells you to do.
> 
> I've had the 620 for about 7 months and it's been working fine until just recently.


Plug the pump power into something that gives 12V constant.

Such as a 3 pin to molex adapter.


----------



## Maximization

got my mx paste, can't wait to get home and see of it makes differnce


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> got my mx paste, can't wait to get home and see of it makes differnce


Let us know how it does







!


----------



## Maximization

2 degrees

just looked at package it is mx2 not mx3


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Ehlak*
> 
> Hey guys, I have a question about my 620. Is it suppose to make noise? Because mine is dead silent, and it's very hot on touch. Does this mean my pump is dead? I am also getting extreme load temperatures. Up to 90-95c. It idles around 50c. The CPU is an Intel i5 2500k .
> 
> Thanks in advance.


Are you overclocked? Try moving your case around see if your have air but most lilely because it isnt making any noise that is the pump. I just got issued a replacement (havent received it yet because they shipped it to the wrong address) and they were very good about the replacement part of it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> 2 degrees
> 
> just looked at package it is mx2 not mx3


That's decent for just changing paste, what method of application did you use? Line method?


----------



## Maximization

i did the dot on center, the syringe has application dosage lines on the side one application dose.
curious when i should overclock again, is their a curing time?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

There could be, but I went straight in


----------



## M3TAl

Don't think MX-2/4 have a curing time. If it does it's like 1-2 hours if that.


----------



## MarcusCA

Euhhh, has anyone puncture the 620 on accident with a long screw yet? Did your rad start leaking or is it all good - I haven't tried it yet since


----------



## M3TAl

Haven't heard of that happening.

Did yours leak? If it leaked then it's no good.


----------



## Moolers

Hi,
Just installed my 620 last night. I'm just wondering what's the pump supposed to run at? At the moment its showing as 1400-1500 RPM when connected to CPUfan header.

Was hoping to avoid using a molex to fan connector if possible but if my pump is not running at full speed I'll use one.

My mates 920 pump is connected to 12V and it runs at 3000RPM. Is the 620 pump supposed to be the same?

Thanks,
Moo


----------



## M3TAl

You're getting the proper pump speed. People say the 620 reports half of what it actually runs at. Here's a pic of mine and for reference also my 920.


----------



## Pyrynot

Is the Antec 620 worth it? I could get one from my friend for forty euros, buy a better fan and that adds up to fifty euros.
How does it compute with other fifty euro air cooling systems? In my country that's like Thermalright True Spirit 140 and Macho, and also Noctua NH-U12P SE2.

Thanks for replies









E: Oh yeah, what is the difference between V1 and V4?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Pyrynot*
> 
> Is the Antec 620 worth it? I could get one from my friend for forty euros, buy a better fan and that adds up to fifty euros.
> How does it compute with other fifty euro air cooling systems? In my country that's like Thermalright True Spirit 140 and Macho, and also Noctua NH-U12P SE2.
> 
> Thanks for replies
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> E: Oh yeah, what is the difference between V1 and V4?


V4 seems to be updated with a better pump flow (from what I remember).
As for 50€....you could buy that BRAND new rather than buying it from a friend - couldn't you?
I mean 60€ is brand new price, without any fans...how old is your friends one etc?

AMazon FR for example - in EUR:
http://www.amazon.fr/Antec-H2O-620-%C3%89changeur-refroidissement/dp/B004LWYE4Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376826543&sr=8-1&keywords=Antec+Kuhler+H2O+620


----------



## spikezone2004

The V1 and V4 is a rather big difference. I had the V1 but I just RMAd it due to lack of liquid in the pump dont know if it leaked or evaporated or was always like that but I just got my new one and it has many changes.

V1 was 3.1 watts the V4 is 7.4 watts
The cpu block on the V4 is a little bit thicker and different design. looks a little cleaner less ridges and cracks (where the parts meet and such)
Also the copper plate is a little different.

I can upload pics of the differences if anyone wants to see them.

EDIT: Also for the pump being more watts, and they say better flow it is just as quiet as the V1 I would say maybe a teeny bit louder but just barely.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> The V1 and V4 is a rather big difference. I had the V1 but I just RMAd it due to lack of liquid in the pump dont know if it leaked or evaporated or was always like that but I just got my new one and it has many changes.
> 
> V1 was 3.1 watts the V4 is 7.4 watts
> The cpu block on the V4 is a little bit thicker and different design. looks a little cleaner less ridges and cracks (where the parts meet and such)
> Also the copper plate is a little different.
> 
> I can upload pics of the differences if anyone wants to see them.
> 
> EDIT: Also for the pump being more watts, and they say better flow it is just as quiet as the V1 I would say maybe a teeny bit louder but just barely.


PIcs would greatly be appreciated and I would love to put them in the OP









EDIT:
Just submitted a support request to see differences between the V1 and V4 and if Antec could provide more information on the differences.


----------



## M3TAl

Spike, where them pics you showed me? You have dropbox on your phone right?


----------



## spikezone2004

THe V4 is on the left and the V1 is on the right




The cords also come out on the opposite side they use too and arent braided


----------



## SinatraFan

Has anyone replaced the fans that came with the H2O 920 with quieter fans? If so, what do you recommend? These fans are simply too noisy for me. My 3930k is running at 46-48 during peak business hours because of the activity of the markets and the fans are running at 1700-1900+ and are simply too noisy for me.

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

In the OP mate.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> In the OP mate.


I assume you are referring to "OP or Opening Post" I saw the SP video, but am interested in other options that have the 4 pin so they can be connected to the Antec software


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I assume you are referring to "OP or Opening Post" I saw the SP video, but am interested in other options that have the 4 pin so they can be connected to the Antec software


I dont believe it needs to be a 4 pin, as in PWM control, in order for the 920 software to recognize the fan. a 3 pin should work just as well. It's really personal choice. Yate Loons are quiet at low RPM, along with Noctuas. There have been way too many past debates on that subject to go into it again.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah you'll need 4 pin to get it to work properly. There are options, and they are silent. Typhoon fans for example have had good things said about them on here.

As for the v1/4 discussion here's what Antec said:
Thank you for contacting Antec Inc. In regards to your question, there is not much of a difference between the Version 1 Kuhler 920 to the Version 4 Kuhler 920. The difference between them is the Version 1 has the kits for the LGA 775, 1155 and 1366. It doesn't have the proper brackets for the socket LGA2011. It also can support any AMD sockets. Version 2, they came out with a newer mounting brackets for LGA1155, 1366 and 2011; they got rid of the LGA 775 rails because they where least requested that time. Version 3 unit had the upgraded Chill Control Software V 1.0 and the Version 4 came out with the Chill Control Software V 1.2 and also came out with the Chill Control Software VI for Windows 8 fix but there was alot of bugs and issues with the software that's why we asked the customer to downgrade to the Chill Control V 1.2.

The Kuhler 620, 920 and 1220 are all made by Asetek and we are coming out with our own Liquid Cooling unit. Kuhler's 650, 950 and 1250 will be coming out soon. The difference between these liquid cooling units prior to the old ones are re designed bigger pumps than the Asetek models. We've moved the pump near the radiator and the fan because on the Asetek design, the cooling plate, when get's hot, the impeller on the pump is affected by heat that the CPU is generating. Which causing the pump to either seize up or you'll hear the pump clicking noise. Just a FYI, the new Kuhler's looks like the pump is in parallel with the air fan motor but it's generally, 2 motors, 1 motor for the pump unit and 1 motor for the fan unit. The Kuhler 1220 that was designed by Asetek only has a single pump for the 240mm radiator. The Kuhler 1250 that will be coming out has a dual pump design for better cooling options. We should be releasing the new Kuhler's by this coming September.

Feel free to contact me if you have any questions or concerns. [email protected]


----------



## Destrto

So, it absolutely has to be 4 pin in order for the software to recognize it? It doesnt work the same way as some motherboard headers, where 3 pin and 4 pin fans can get the same speed control and rpm reading?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nop, has to be 4 pin on order for you to control it.
3 pin works and is recognised, but runs at max rpm and you're unable to control. As for motherboards, they on the other hand can control 3 pin and 4 pin ones - that's what I've got setup


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nop, has to be 4 pin on order for you to control it.
> 3 pin works and is recognised, but runs at max rpm and you're unable to control. As for motherboards, they on the other hand can control 3 pin and 4 pin ones - that's what I've got setup


Ahh ok, gotcha. Thanks.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> I assume you are referring to "OP or Opening Post" I saw the SP video, but am interested in other options that have the 4 pin so they can be connected to the Antec software


I'm using Cougar Vortex's (the PWM 1500 RPM ones) on this 920. Works with the software to control fan speed just fine and of course is much quieter. Any decent PWM fan is most likely quieter than the stock fans.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah you'll need 4 pin to get it to work properly. There are options, and they are silent. Typhoon fans for example have had good things said about them on here.
> 
> As for the v1/4 discussion here's what Antec said:
> Thank you for contacting Antec Inc. In regards to your question, there is not much of a difference between the Version 1 Kuhler 920 to the Version 4 Kuhler 920. The difference between them is the Version 1 has the kits for the LGA 775, 1155 and 1366. It doesn't have the proper brackets for the socket LGA2011. It also can support any AMD sockets. Version 2, they came out with a newer mounting brackets for LGA1155, 1366 and 2011; they got rid of the LGA 775 rails because they where least requested that time. Version 3 unit had the upgraded Chill Control Software V 1.0 and the Version 4 came out with the Chill Control Software V 1.2 and also came out with the Chill Control Software VI for Windows 8 fix but there was alot of bugs and issues with the software that's why we asked the customer to downgrade to the Chill Control V 1.2.The Kuhler 620, 920 and 1220 are all made by Asetek and we are coming out with our own Liquid Cooling unit. Kuhler's 650, 950 and 1250 will be coming out soon. The difference between these liquid cooling units prior to the old ones are re designed bigger pumps than the Asetek models. We've moved the pump near the radiator and the fan because on the Asetek design, the cooling plate, when get's hot, the impeller on the pump is affected by heat that the CPU is generating. Which causing the pump to either seize up or you'll hear the pump clicking noise. Just a FYI, the new Kuhler's looks like the pump is in parallel with the air fan motor but it's generally, 2 motors, 1 motor for the pump unit and 1 motor for the fan unit. The Kuhler 1220 that was designed by Asetek only has a single pump for the 240mm radiator. The Kuhler 1250 that will be coming out has a dual pump design for better cooling options. We should be releasing the new Kuhler's by this coming September.


They didn't seem to mention any of the physical differences easily noticed in the pictures by spikezone. A larger pump/block, different cold plate, and uses more power(guess that one wasn't easily noticable







).


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'm using Cougar Vortex's (the PWM 1500 RPM ones) on this 920. Works with the software to control fan speed just fine and of course is much quieter. Any decent PWM fan is most likely quieter than the stock fans.


I was just looking at those. Thanks for the heads up

Have you noticed any difference in the cooling? I ask because the CFM rating on the cougar is 70ish while the stock antecs according to newegg is 110.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't know that I would pay the $15-16 for them, got all 8 of these on sale for little under $10 each.

If you look in my sig there's some testing I did with a Helix, Vortex and stock 620 fan. The 620 fan is different from the 920 fans but still very loud.


----------



## Kamarlo

I am looking to replace my Kuhler 620 fan. Temps are not the problem on original fan but noice and looks are. Corsair SP120 seems to be a nice fan. Quiet or performance edition, 3pin or pwm, that is the question. At the moment i run my 620 like it is shown in the manual. I am possibly going to plug the pump to PSU and fan to motherboard cpu-fan location.

If i get the 3pin version, does it run full rpm all the time? And pwm does choose rpm itself?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I'm using Cougar Vortex's (the PWM 1500 RPM ones) on this 920. Works with the software to control fan speed just fine and of course is much quieter. Any decent PWM fan is most likely quieter than the stock fans.
> They didn't seem to mention any of the physical differences easily noticed in the pictures by spikezone. A larger pump/block, different cold plate, and uses more power(guess that one wasn't easily noticable
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ).


Yes very true. I'll ask for clarification

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Kamarlo*
> 
> I am looking to replace my Kuhler 620 fan. Temps are not the problem on original fan but noice and looks are. Corsair SP120 seems to be a nice fan. Quiet or performance edition, 3pin or pwm, that is the question. At the moment i run my 620 like it is shown in the manual. I am possibly going to plug the pump to PSU and fan to motherboard cpu-fan location.
> 
> If i get the 3pin version, does it run full rpm all the time? And pwm does choose rpm itself?


see the conversation just above in this thread


----------



## Totally Dubbed

V1 and V4 differences posted in the OP - will update as I get more info


----------



## ihatelolcats

what is the head pressure of the antec 620 pump?


----------



## M3TAl

Don't think anyone knows but most likely it's very low.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't think anyone knows but most likely it's very low.


Yeah was about to say - no one really knows.
I can ask when Antec get back to me again.


----------



## M3TAl

Kind of doubt Antec has those specs, Asetek might though. The H100i pump specs are known, one can only assume these units are very similar.

According to Martin's Liquid Lab H100i is max flow of .11 GPM and max head of 1.14 PSI. Pretty dismal. http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/03/13/corsair-hydro-series-h100i-aio-cpu-cooler/5/


----------



## spikezone2004

I saw a video on youtube of a person that cut off the tubing from the antec and drained it and ran colored liquid through it to see how much it pumped but I dont believe he did any mathematics to calculate the psi of it but it was cool too see how much it pumped


----------



## SinatraFan

Just picked up some cougar fans to replace those noisy fans that came with my 920. Will install them tonight.


----------



## ihatelolcats

i bought a refurb 620 from antec, i may do some tests with it to find out the head pressure since i dont need to use it on anything right now. i will let u know what i find


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just picked up some cougar fans to replace those noisy fans that came with my 920. Will install them tonight.


epic - let us know how it performs - temps and sound wise!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> i bought a refurb 620 from antec, i may do some tests with it to find out the head pressure since i dont need to use it on anything right now. i will let u know what i find


Would greatly appreciate that info!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I saw a video on youtube of a person that cut off the tubing from the antec and drained it and ran colored liquid through it to see how much it pumped but I dont believe he did any mathematics to calculate the psi of it but it was cool too see how much it pumped


Have you got a link - I can link it in the OP







!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just picked up some cougar fans to replace those noisy fans that came with my 920. Will install them tonight.


That's what I run, 8 of them 2 on the 920.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's what I run, 8 of them 2 on the 920.


wait 8 of them?
You should use static pressure fans for rads (usually low CFM) and high CFM fans for case flow.
Ie. SP120 vs AF140


----------



## M3TAl

The CFM is enough for me. I only run my fans ~1000 RPM anyways. VRM and NB temps are fine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The CFM is enough for me. I only run my fans ~1000 RPM anyways. VRM and NB temps are fine.


fair enough man!


----------



## richie_2010

Do you guys think that 3mm or 5mm acrylic would be strong enough if used to make a bracket for the 620 /920 and the h-series.For the h-series please take the thought of heat melting the acrylic from the equasion.I would appreciate any and all comments


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Do you guys think that 3mm or 5mm acrylic would be strong enough if used to make a bracket for the 620 /920 and the h-series.For the h-series please take the thought of heat melting the acrylic from the equasion.I would appreciate any and all comments


A bracket for where.. There is already someone who makes great brackets for the 620/920 coolers. (For GPU's)

To more accurately answer your question, I would be taking a guess that anything less than 5mm thick would run the risk of being too thin.
And where are you planning to have these brackets that heat would be enough of an issue that it would cause melting?


----------



## richie_2010

Ive been reading all of the issues people have been having in regards to orders of brackets. I was looking at having someone cut me some with acrylic but was unsure of the thickness.

As for the h60 dwoods mount is screwed to the base of the cooler I wad thinking of something that sits over the top. Going of the way people have bern using the stock mounts and putting the pump at an angle this could bepossible


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Ive been reading all of the issues people have been having in regards to orders of brackets. I was looking at having someone cut me some with acrylic but was unsure of the thickness.
> 
> As for the h60 dwoods mount is screwed to the base of the cooler I wad thinking of something that sits over the top. Going of the way people have bern using the stock mounts and putting the pump at an angle this could bepossible


There have been no issues with Sigma_Cool other than at the Post Office itself. All of his orders have been fulfilled.

DWOOD has been out of contact for some time though, and he has tons of orders yet to be filled or even updated on the progress of. You would be hard pressed to find a DWOOD bracket. While Sigma_Cool is up and running smoothly.

I'm not by any means trying to down play DWOOD in favor of SIgma_Cool. I personally use 2 Sigma_Cool mounts, which have been working flawlessly so far, and were a breeze to install. I'm simply stating that for the people looking at past issues between DWOOD and Sigma_Cool, Sigma_Cool has fixed its issues and is still contactable on OCN.


----------



## richie_2010

Ive never dealt with stigma but his work looks great. Ive had ordered from dwood and never had any issues whatsoever. I have three or four of his gpu mounts here somewhere.

My idea was literally simple and basic with no custom work. This in turn keeps costs down and also is universal between the square and round pumps. Stigmas look like they have the style aswell as functionality while im just wanting bog standard functionality that works.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Ive never dealt with stigma but his work looks great. Ive had ordered from dwood and never had any issues whatsoever. I have three or four of his gpu mounts here somewhere.
> 
> My idea was literally simple and basic with no custom work. This in turn keeps costs down and also is universal between the square and round pumps. Stigmas look like they have the style aswell as functionality while im just wanting bog standard functionality that works.


That seems simple enough. And a bracket that allows compatibility between Round and Square style pumps would definitely be welcome.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> There have been no issues with Sigma_Cool other than at the Post Office itself. All of his orders have been fulfilled.
> 
> DWOOD has been out of contact for some time though, and he has tons of orders yet to be filled or even updated on the progress of. You would be hard pressed to find a DWOOD bracket. While Sigma_Cool is up and running smoothly.
> 
> I'm not by any means trying to down play DWOOD in favor of SIgma_Cool. I personally use 2 Sigma_Cool mounts, which have been working flawlessly so far, and were a breeze to install. I'm simply stating that for the people looking at past issues between DWOOD and Sigma_Cool, Sigma_Cool has fixed its issues and is still contactable on OCN.


Spikezone's Sigma Cool actually broke, no idea why/how but it did. Think he's the only one to ever have that problem though.


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> epic - let us know how it performs - temps and sound wise!


Just installed the fans. All I can say is WOW! What a difference. Went into the ChillControl and turned it on extreme setting and although you could hear the fans slightly, they were more than bearable. Tomorrow, I will take pics and let you know how they cool as well.

EDIT... I just made a movie which I do every day to record my business activities. Normally, it pushes my CPU at 65-70% and with the old fans, it would run up to 51-52 C and of course very loud. With the new fans, it was much quieter and the top temp was 47.4 C. Major improvement IMHO.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Spikezone's Sigma Cool actually broke, no idea why/how but it did. Think he's the only one to ever have that problem though.


After installing both of mine, all i could see causing that is improper installation. Even with them being acrylic, it definitely takes quite the effort to break these during installation.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just installed the fans. All I can say is WOW! What a difference. Went into the ChillControl and turned it on extreme setting and although you could hear the fans slightly, they were more than bearable. Tomorrow, I will take pics and let you know how they cool as well.
> 
> EDIT... I just made a movie which I do every day to record my business activities. Normally, it pushes my CPU at 65-70% and with the old fans, it would run up to 51-52 C and of course very loud. With the new fans, it was much quieter and the top temp was 47.4 C. Major improvement IMHO.


seems like a major improvement to me! Great news


----------



## SavageBrat

Hello Folks, sorry if I posted in the wrong place but I might be one of the lost children ..as I have the AMD version of the 920..am I ok here?


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hello Folks, sorry if I posted in the wrong place but I might be one of the lost children ..as I have the AMD version of the 920..am I ok here?


Asetek make's both so i think they are same cooler's, maby fan's are different but...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Of course you are! Welcome to the club


----------



## SavageBrat

There is a slight difference in the mounting system, (only AMD) and metal back plate, slight change in the software and a few other things there is a nice read up here.. http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-fx-8150-black-edition-cpu-water-cooler-review_1743.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Do Antec/asetek provide them with it?
Haven't read the review.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> After installing both of mine, all i could see causing that is improper installation. Even with them being acrylic, it definitely takes quite the effort to break these during installation.


I installed it properly and everything and just used my fingers to tighten it pretty much, I talked to Sigma_cool and we came to the conclusion it might of been a defective unit because like you said they take a lot of effort to break those things. He sent me a replacement very fast and I was very pleased with the service he gave, couldn't ask for more!


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> There is a slight difference in the mounting system, (only AMD) and metal back plate, slight change in the software and a few other things there is a nice read up here.. http://www.legitreviews.com/amd-fx-8150-black-edition-cpu-water-cooler-review_1743.


That sort of proves the design is sound on the Antec units.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Just read the review, yeah that's a 920, just rebranded lol.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I installed it properly and everything and just used my fingers to tighten it pretty much, I talked to Sigma_cool and we came to the conclusion it might of been a defective unit because like you said they take a lot of effort to break those things. He sent me a replacement very fast and I was very pleased with the service he gave, couldn't ask for more!


Good to hear it was resolved quickly!


----------



## richie_2010

If a new simple bracket could be provided to work with pretty much all cards and both the square and round pumps. Would you prefer to have a 92mm fan mount attached which will make the cost a tad higher or one that can be added (attachment) that will make it cheaper. This will be supplied with the bracket.

It wont be fancy like dwoods or stigmas but it will be universal simple and basic


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> If a new simple bracket could be provided to work with pretty much all cards and both the square and round pumps. Would you prefer to have a 92mm fan mount attached which will make the cost a tad higher or one that can be added (attachment) that will make it cheaper. This will be supplied with the bracket.
> 
> It wont be fancy like dwoods or stigmas but it will be universal simple and basic


I've only experienced the heat created from my own cards, 6850's, and they dont get hot at all with just a small amount of airflow over the card itself, so I honestly think having the option to choose would be a better deal than offering one or the other.

Maybe make a thread to get a bigger response and some more opinions?


----------



## M3TAl

Having a choice is better.

7870 XT's VRM reach a scorching 100C+ playing something like Crysis 3 for any extended amount of time.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Having a choice is better.
> 
> 7870 XT's VRM reach a scorching 100C+ playing something like Crysis 3 for any extended amount of time.


Is that with the stock heatsink? Ive noticed quite a few stock heatsinks will just blow that hot air back into the VRM's.


----------



## M3TAl

That's with a kuhler 620. With stock heat sink you're looking at probably 90C.


----------



## richie_2010

hi guys a threads been opened for your opinions.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I don't get what you mean by a threads been opened?


----------



## richie_2010

http://www.overclock.net/t/1423091/new-universal-bracket-for-clc-coolers-on-gpus-detachable-universal-fan-mount-also#post_20715208


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> That's with a kuhler 620. With stock heat sink you're looking at probably 90C.


Ahh ok. I know my 6850's were cooler with just the stock heatsinks taken off becuase the heatsink would just force hot air right back at the card. But, like I said, I know other cards will be different.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1423091/new-universal-bracket-for-clc-coolers-on-gpus-detachable-universal-fan-mount-also#post_20715208


I'll check out the new thread for discussions.


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Ahh ok. I know my 6850's were cooler with just the stock heatsinks taken off becuase the heatsink would just force hot air right back at the card. But, like I said, I know other cards will be different.
> I'll check out the new thread for discussions.


Any comments are appreciated. Trying to source some bits


----------



## Gereti

Allright folks, it looks like, that if i wait 2 month's, i got 920 for free from my friend
we bought tax-free stuff from school, i build he's computer stuff to case, and i got one free 920+10€
look's like i got good deal, is it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright folks, it looks like, that if i wait 2 month's, i got 920 for free from my friend
> we bought tax-free stuff from school, i build he's computer stuff to case, and i got one free 920+10€
> look's like i got good deal, is it?


10€ for the 920?


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 10€ for the 920?


no, i mean i got free 920 and 10€


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Haha well that's just epic win, either way round! What you going to do with it? I'm guessing your pc is already cooled by an Antec right?


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Haha well that's just epic win, either way round! What you going to do with it? I'm guessing your pc is already cooled by an Antec right?


Nope, i was going to buy first 920, but then i was going to buy 620, butnow, i dont buy anything of those if i got that one
maby new fan's that's it








i have my better motherboard on use too now, (was on warranty), so i can overclock again








Edit: Gonna put that one on *Manhattan By Night*-Rig


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Nope, i was going to buy first 920, but then i was going to buy 620, butnow, i dont buy anything of those if i got that one
> maby new fan's that's it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> i have my better motherboard on use too now, (was on warranty), so i can overclock again
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Edit: Gonna put that one on *Manhattan By Night*-Rig


very nice one bro!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> very nice one bro!


Yeah, thanks








Just thinking should i mod my case littlebit and make windows on it, becose i have maby 2mx0.5m piece plexiglass...
I have to think about that becose i could use plexiwindow if i hace 920 (my mugen3 fit just on my case now,)
But, first 920, then mod's and i'm on good way
E: must edit, i asked if my friend need better fan on his setup too (i choose part's, build computer, and what i choose to cooling will be doubled(now 920+2xfan's))
so, how these fan's would work with 920?
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Akasa-120mm-x-25mm-Apache-Black-Super-Silent-PWM-Fan-%28Hydro-Dynamic-Bearings-%252d-Black%29-.html
my friend setup include bitfenix prodigy (he live in two different house so he need low-weight and small computer)
and my case is rosewill ranger
why those fan's and not corsair SP's?, well becose we want easy cpy-fan adjust (well, what i choose to my friend, i got it too so, (little deal,))
so are those fan's working with 920?, statik pressure look's good (i think) and dp's are low, so why not?


----------



## SavageBrat

Hello All, have a question regarding fan setup, I'm currently using the stock fans on my AMD version of the 920 in a push pull configuration but I'm going to upgrade them with a pair of Sp120 hp but my question is how to best way to set the fans up on my mb , as the are currently plugged into the cpu fan slot is there anything I should change in the bios? (MB is a gigabyte UD3 rev 3) tia..


----------



## M3TAl

How many case fans? The UD3 has CPU_Fan, PWR_Fan, SYS_Fan1, and SYS_Fan2. In my experience only CPU_Fan and SYS_Fan1 control fan speeds automatically with BIOS. Only the CPU_Fan is PWM controllable.


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How many case fans? The UD3 has CPU_Fan, PWR_Fan, SYS_Fan1, and SYS_Fan2. In my experience only CPU_Fan and SYS_Fan1 control fan speeds automatically with BIOS. Only the CPU_Fan is PWM controllable.


I have a a bunch of fans, 6 in my case..maybe a bit of an overkill but 4 of them are hooked into my fan controller ( 2 top fans and 2 front fans) and my case fans on the side are currently plugged into the 2 system fan slots.. so it leaves me with 1 pwm slot open on the mb.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hello All, have a question regarding fan setup, I'm currently using the stock fans on my AMD version of the 920 in a push pull configuration but I'm going to upgrade them with a pair of Sp120 hp but my question is how to best way to set the fans up on my mb , as the are currently plugged into the cpu fan slot is there anything I should change in the bios? (MB is a gigabyte UD3 rev 3) tia..


You should plug them into a header (doesn't actually matter which one) and then go into the BIOS of the motherboard and configure it to ramp at certain CPU temps.
I have the option on my Asus board - thus I'm pretty sure you must have the option too!

You don't need the hp version by the way - quiet version is the one I chose, does a more than adequate job. Unless for some reason you want it to ramp to 2.5k rpm


----------



## Gereti

how these fan's could work?
http://www.moddiy.com/products/Akasa-120mm-x-25mm-Apache-Black-Super-Silent-PWM-Fan-%28Hydro-Dynamic-Bearings-%252d-Black%29-.html
statik pressure was maby 2.5 what i read, and those are pretty low-db fan's,


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> how these fan's could work?
> http://www.moddiy.com/products/Akasa-120mm-x-25mm-Apache-Black-Super-Silent-PWM-Fan-%28Hydro-Dynamic-Bearings-%252d-Black%29-.html
> statik pressure was maby 2.5 what i read, and those are pretty low-db fan's,


I've heard great things about them actually!


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> You should plug them into a header (doesn't actually matter which one) and then go into the BIOS of the motherboard and configure it to ramp at certain CPU temps.
> I have the option on my Asus board - thus I'm pretty sure you must have the option too!
> 
> You don't need the hp version by the way - quiet version is the one I chose, does a more than adequate job. Unless for some reason you want it to ramp to 2.5k rpm


Ok, on the fans I actually ordered a set of both..quiet and hp.
In my bios I have a bunch of settings ..
1) CPU Fan Control mode- with the settings of Auto,Voltage and PWM it is set to Auto
2) Then i have another set of setting for CPU Fan Speed Control that has the following setting of normal,silent and manual,when I switch it to manual I get the following options of
Slope PWM with the settings of 0.75 PWM value /C up to 2.50 PWM value/C in .25 increments, and the same for the 1st System Fan control. Cpu fan Speed control is set to normal..
So I guess it it set to Auto I should be ok.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Ok, on the fans I actually ordered a set of both..quiet and hp.
> In my bios I have a bunch of settings ..
> 1) CPU Fan Control mode- with the settings of Auto,Voltage and PWM it is set to Auto
> 2) Then i have another set of setting for CPU Fan Speed Control that has the following setting of normal,silent and manual,when I switch it to manual I get the following options of
> Slope PWM with the settings of 0.75 PWM value /C up to 2.50 PWM value/C in .25 increments, and the same for the 1st System Fan control. Cpu fan Speed control is set to normal..
> So I guess it it set to Auto I should be ok.


Indeed looks ok!
I would ensure that it does ramp (do some tests) at higher temps.


----------



## SavageBrat

It does ramp up ( been playing BF3) as I probably don't have the software not quite set up correctly yet..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> It does ramp up ( been playing BF3) as I probably don't have the software not quite set up correctly yet..


The software won't work if you plug in the 3pin new fans into it and/or the motherboard - you have to set it via the bios to ramp.


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> The software won't work if you plug in the 3pin new fans into it and/or the motherboard - you have to set it via the bios to ramp.


Now you lost as I have the stock fans in the cpu fan header and it ramps just fine..when I hit the extreme setting it sounds like a mini jet taking off..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Now you lost as I have the stock fans in the cpu fan header and it ramps just fine..when I hit the extreme setting it sounds like a mini jet taking off..


Maybe because it isn't the Antec?
No idea.

For us - with fans: If you plug the fans into the motherboard/cpu header and NOT the antec splitter that incidentally connects to the cpu fan header, then the software can't control your fans.


----------



## SavageBrat

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Maybe because it isn't the Antec?
> No idea.
> 
> For us - with fans: If you plug the fans into the motherboard/cpu header and NOT the antec splitter that incidentally connects to the cpu fan header, then the software can't control your fans.


opps..then we are the same as my fans are hook up with the y cable also..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> opps..then we are the same as my fans are hook up with the y cable also..


hehe there we go


----------



## ihatelolcats

well the refurb 620 i got has a pretty bad sound to it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMaCAU1nP-Q&feature=youtu.be
this is at full 12v, it gets quieter at lower voltage but not by much
im not afraid of taking it apart but idk what i could do to repair it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> well the refurb 620 i got has a pretty bad sound to it
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMaCAU1nP-Q&feature=youtu.be
> this is at full 12v, it gets quieter at lower voltage but not by much
> im not afraid of taking it apart but idk what i could do to repair it


Where did you buy the refurb for?
I would take it back.

Doesn't sound like a bubble issue - sounds like a current issue - that's my complete guess
This is the pump I presume right?

It also does sound like fans hitting something


----------



## ihatelolcats

i got it from the antec online store. yeah its the pump, think the other sounds were from me touching the phone maybe. it gets a little better with a magnet but it vibrates more lol


----------



## Totally Dubbed

It that case ask them for an exchange and send them that video


----------



## Destrto

I would for sure request a replacement. Create a ticket, or simply email the support team and attach the video.


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> well the refurb 620 i got has a pretty bad sound to it
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yMaCAU1nP-Q&feature=youtu.be
> this is at full 12v, it gets quieter at lower voltage but not by much
> im not afraid of taking it apart but idk what i could do to repair it


sounds like a defective sex toy..hehehe


----------



## spikezone2004

I just got my 620 replaced by them, was great customer service, just still waiting for my money back because I did an Adanced RMA been 2 weeks since they got it back.


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *silvyan*
> 
> ok, so the Kuhler 620 can't control the fan. the only way to not always being at max is to plug them on the motherboard fan controller or an external fan controller. that not cool, but i think i can live with it.
> 
> I would have take the 920 just for this if i have known before.
> 
> ty M3TAl and kalidae


Honestly, trying to use the pump and software to control temps based on water temp is completely useless. Going straight to a MOBO header is the best thing you can do. As soon as CPU temps rise, those fans are coming on. I couldn't get past 4.6 on an i5 3570k using water temp and that software, forget IBT. 5.0 on the same rig once I switched to the Mobo headers.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys - would you guys like If I add a section in the OP - for "recommended fans to buy vs stock?
If so - would you like to give me some fans you guys would like to see in there?
We can all see the fans people have in the OP anyway, but still think it might be useful with Manufacturer links?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchronicBoost*
> 
> Honestly, trying to use the pump and software to control temps based on water temp is completely useless. Going straight to a MOBO header is the best thing you can do. As soon as CPU temps rise, those fans are coming on. I couldn't get past 4.6 on an i5 3570k using water temp and that software, forget IBT. 5.0 on the same rig once I switched to the Mobo headers.


Agreed


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys - would you guys like If I add a section in the OP - for "recommended fans to buy vs stock?
> If so - would you like to give me some fans you guys would like to see in there?
> We can all see the fans people have in the OP anyway, but still think it might be useful with Manufacturer links?
> Agreed


Personally, I've become a big fan of the AeroCool Shark fans....They're quiet, and they keep my Kuhler 620 pretty cool...


----------



## blaze2210

Just got some pics of my PC....Considering I paid about $30 from Best Buy (after using a $10 reward cert), this 620 puts in some serious work - keeping my 4.6ghz i5-4670k CPU cool....I have it set up as intake, it seems to stay cooler than using it as exhaust in the back of the case....


----------



## M3TAl

Exhaust in the back will always be hotter. The inside of a case is typically 3-5C or more warmer than ambient. Intake is the way to go for best temps.

Also recommended fan section would be nice, maybe a best fans under $10 part and then over $10.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I would switch that setup.
Intake is definitely better but on that setup you got air shooting down the motherboard.
I would do as I have done and put the rad exactly where you would as an exhaust but instead as an intake and have the other fan you got at the top of the case taking the hot air out. As hot air rises, that's the logic behind it


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys - would you guys like If I add a section in the OP - for "recommended fans to buy vs stock?
> If so - would you like to give me some fans you guys would like to see in there?
> We can all see the fans people have in the OP anyway, but still think it might be useful with Manufacturer links?
> Agreed


I think a section in the OP would help those who ask in the thread often about fans.


----------



## Destrto

The air will go where it is being pushed. And intake or exhaust will not make more than 2-3C difference in most cases. A lot of threads about that debate.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I shall create a list soon then!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I shall create a list soon then!


I personally like the Yate Loons Medium. Low price, decent performance for the radiators of the Closed Loop coolers. $4 a piece a worth it to me.


----------



## M3TAl

Never tried any but Yate Loons are quite the deal from what I hear.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Never tried any but Yate Loons are quite the deal from what I hear.


I ordered a set of the High speed ones, slim and standard. Could not be happier for the price I paid. I havent needed to turn them up passed medium speed yet. They have an irritating whine to them when they run at full speed, which is probably from them being ball bearing* ? I believe?


----------



## ihatelolcats

yate loons are good
its all i use in my computer


----------



## M3TAl

Was thinking yesterday about getting some of the slow (1350 RPM is it?) Loons because I'm still planning on going full custom water with 2-3 240mm rads push+pull. But since I've already got 8 Cougars and there were two on ocn market for nice price, picked those up instead.

Planning to eventually paint them white. Should look pretty slick with the whole black & white theme that's going on with this case and my planned loop.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> yate loons are good
> its all i use in my computer


Im not terribly big on "best fans are this.. etc..." If I buy something, and it works, and works well for cheap, I stick with it.


----------



## Gereti

i own 2x 140mm 1000rpm red-led yate loon fan's and i'm okay with those, i paid 10€/ea
i can recommend those


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would switch that setup.
> Intake is definitely better but on that setup you got air shooting down the motherboard.
> I would do as I have done and put the rad exactly where you would as an exhaust but instead as an intake and have the other fan you got at the top of the case taking the hot air out. As hot air rises, that's the logic behind it


I tried that, but my CPU temps were higher that way. You can see from that pic that I have a fan on the bottom of the case pulling air in, a fan in the back of the case pushing air out.

Now what you can't see: there are 3x120mm fans in the front of the case pulling air in, and another 120mm right next to the Kuhler 620 that pulls air out. That brings the amount of fans to 8x120mm (including the 2 on the Kuhler 620). The hot air leaving the radiator can't go very far without being pushed towards the back of the case.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I tried that, but my CPU temps were higher that way. You can see from that pic that I have a fan on the bottom of the case pulling air in, a fan in the back of the case pushing air out.
> 
> Now what you can't see: there are 3x120mm fans in the front of the case pulling air in, and another 120mm right next to the Kuhler 620 that pulls air out. That brings the amount of fans to 8x120mm (including the 2 on the Kuhler 620). The hot air leaving the radiator can't go very far without being pushed towards the back of the case.


fair play!


----------



## blaze2210

This case is working out pretty well so far - especially compared to my old ThermalTake V4. Also, the rest of the case fans will most likely be swapped out, but still haven't quite decided on that yet - or what fans will be installed. I don't particulary care about the noise levels (within reason) as the room I'm in is rarely silent enough to differentiate the PC fans from the room fans.









On a side note: Vornado room fans move quite a bit of air for being small units.








http://www.vornado.com/home.aspx?country=USA


----------



## blaze2210

Now I came across an interesting situation. I just got a Corsair H100i and got it installed. I ran IBT on 10 passes and the test had to be stopped since my temps were reaching ridiculous levels (95-100* C). I was using the exact same BIOS profile as I was with my Kuhler 620 in Push/Pull.

The only thing that is different in the installs is the thermal compound. For the Kuhler 620, I used Shin Etsu, and the H100i, I left the stock compound on. Unfortunately, I ran out of the Shin Etsu. Should I reseat the pump using the Antec Formula 7 that I have?

NOTE: The Kuhler passed 10 IBT runs at 4.6ghz (4670K Haswell), while the H100i couldn't even pass at 4.4ghz on the same rig....


----------



## Maximization

There are thermal limits to all CLC solutions. The TIM might help a little but you will have thermal incident when you push very, very hard. You need allot of flow and volume with allot of rad space when you start pushing the limits of design. I like my 920 but i have seen it limits. For the space it uses though it cools very very good. your room temp might have been different giving you different results.

I am throwing around designs for a custom solution for myself, i am already 6 times the cost of a 920, i doubt i will get 6 times the cooling though. I actually have to buy a pedestal and attach it to my case to get more space. On paper it is looking crazy and i am thinking maybe i am crazy.


----------



## blaze2210

I'm fully aware of the fact that these AIO products (cooling products in general) have their limits. What I am having a problem understanding is how this H100i that has a radiator twice the size of the Kuhler 620, manages to cool worse than the 620 at the same system settings - regardless of what speed the fans are on.


----------



## Maximization

could be air bubble, maybe a lemon H100i,
i noticed bios upgrades even effected cooling performance
get something like this to remove all doubt

http://www.amazon.com/Ambient-Weather-WS-DP02-Thermometer-Hygrometer-Psychrometer/dp/B00B1I3JRQ

even if temp is same i notice relative humidity and dew points can make you get different results.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Now I came across an interesting situation. I just got a Corsair H100i and got it installed. I ran IBT on 10 passes and the test had to be stopped since my temps were reaching ridiculous levels (95-100* C). I was using the exact same BIOS profile as I was with my Kuhler 620 in Push/Pull.
> 
> The only thing that is different in the installs is the thermal compound. For the Kuhler 620, I used Shin Etsu, and the H100i, I left the stock compound on. Unfortunately, I ran out of the Shin Etsu. Should I reseat the pump using the Antec Formula 7 that I have?
> 
> NOTE: The Kuhler passed 10 IBT runs at 4.6ghz (4670K Haswell), while the H100i couldn't even pass at 4.4ghz on the same rig....


Impossible. The H100i must have something wrong with it:
1. Fans not being given enough power
2. Not seated properly
3. Pump isn't working
4. Air bubbles are present (a lot of them)
5. No liquid in the cooler

Minor factors:
1. Paste is dried up and becoming old
2. Paste is not as good as your own custom paste
3. Direction of fans -> push/pull & intake vs outake
4. Case flow affecting RAD performance

This is the same scenario like Linus Tech Tips (arguably the most famous PC reviewer) had - it came down to the fans not being supplied enough voltage thus were running on 3V when they should have been running on 12V - thus on LOAD he had HUGE temp spikes, but on idle had better temps.
This was the case for the Swiftech H220


----------



## ihatelolcats

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'm fully aware of the fact that these AIO products (cooling products in general) have their limits. What I am having a problem understanding is how this H100i that has a radiator twice the size of the Kuhler 620, manages to cool worse than the 620 at the same system settings - regardless of what speed the fans are on.


its got to be a bad mount somehow. uneven or something


----------



## blaze2210

There was a difference of like 10-20*C between the temps on the 620, versus the temps on this H100i. It's crazy....The 620 would pass the 10 runs of IBT wile barely touching 80*C (I mean like for a fraction of a second it touched that temp). The H100i fails the IBT run on the 4th test after reaching 95-100*C....


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> its got to be a bad mount somehow. uneven or something


i was thinking maybe the blocks are not torqued the same.

are they mounted in same space, i know the h100 is larger.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Might be worth asking h100i owners, maybe someone can shed a light. As I said above, that's not normal


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> *Impossible. The H100i must have something wrong with it:
> 1. Fans not being given enough power
> 2. Not seated properly
> 3. Pump isn't working
> 4. Air bubbles are present (a lot of them)
> 5. No liquid in the cooler*
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> Minor factors:
> 1. Paste is dried up and becoming old
> 2. Paste is not as good as your own custom paste
> 3. Direction of fans -> push/pull & intake vs outake
> 4. Case flow affecting RAD performance
> 
> This is the same scenario like Linus Tech Tips (arguably the most famous PC reviewer) had - it came down to the fans not being supplied enough voltage thus were running on 3V when they should have been running on 12V - thus on LOAD he had HUGE temp spikes, but on idle had better temps.
> This was the case for the Swiftech H220


This is where I would start my troubleshooting. There has to be something wrong with the mount or the pump. I run an H100 and I know temps that high would almost scream *something isnt installed right*

Run the fans from a fan header on the motherboard, or a fan controller if you have one. Or even a 12v molex adapter. Check for proper mounting on the block. Some have even suggested to rotate the pump/block 90 degrees.

Check that the back plate is mounted in the proper orientation.


----------



## M3TAl

Yes, something must be wrong with that H100i or the mount. It should outperform a 920 easily.


----------



## blaze2210

So I got home from work and decided to get to the bottom of this issue. I decided to try a fan setup that I haven't even read about with this CLC (which is basically putting it back to the previous fan orientation), and re-mount the waterblock/pump.

1) Yeah, it ended up having uneven pressure - which was apparent in the way the compound spread.

2) The copper plate has apparently seen better days and needs to be lapped (see pic below)


----------



## blaze2210

Now back to the Kuhler: Does anyone know if the 620 GPU plate is still being made? I tried going to the site earlier, but it was down....


----------



## M3TAl

There's acrylic Sigma Cool brackets here on OCN and richie_2012 is in the middle of prototyping a new bracket.


----------



## wolfwalker

Anyone on an Antec 1100 with a 620? I set it up blowing but have contemplated changing to sucking
since this case has that 200mm top exhaust fan.


----------



## M3TAl

Doesn't hurt to try it out yourself. Run a stress program (IBT/P95/OCCT etc..) for a set amount of time. Watch the temps. Switch it to intake and repeat the process.


----------



## wolfwalker

Roger that, I was hoping to be lazy and find someone had tried it.


----------



## Shad0wSnipER

Hey guys here is my push/pull config with the coolermaster turbine master 1.8s i have on the 620. Works like a charm


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looks like a jet engine!
Nice one dude, cool!


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shad0wSnipER*
> 
> 
> 
> Hey guys here is my push/pull config with the coolermaster turbine master 1.8s i have on the 620. Works like a charm


Looks like one could loose a finger in there








Are you sucking in or blowing out?


----------



## Shad0wSnipER

Totally Dubbed# Haha thanks









Wolfwalker# Its definitely a no go working around it when its on that's for sure. I'm blowing out with the 200mm fan above it sucking in with a filter i made.


----------



## gstar888

Got a 620 with the original fan, I'll be putting it into a new Fractal R4 case soon.

What fans do people recommend for silent operation?


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Got a 620 with the original fan, I'll be putting it into a new Fractal R4 case soon.
> 
> What fans do people recommend for silent operation?


I tried out the Yate Loon models (high speed in my case) And I've yet to hear them even when turned up to 100%.
I have a fan profile set in MSI Afterburner that is pretty steep, it jumps to about 60% fan speed at just 40C, and they are still silent.


----------



## Shad0wSnipER

The best performance to noise fans i've seen are noctuas or the corsair af quiet editions although the corsairs would work the best on a rad.

Hope this helps


----------



## wolfwalker

I've got a push/pull pair from a Coolermaster v6 I had laying around on mine that I can't find much info on.
I ordered a set of Cougar CF-V12HPB to try out just for the heck of it. They seem to be about like the
XSPC Xinruilian RDL1225S I have as case fans, but the Cougars are PWM and 2x the price. Will see what they do next
week. Other than while gaming (when I can't hear the thing anyway), with our mild climate here on the central
coast in CA I keep them dialed down to 1200prm or so with the Coolermasters, so I'm not really expecting
any improvement. Just a fan I know how many miles are on. I couldn't stomach the cost of Noctuas or such.


----------



## M3TAl

If you want the Cougars for a decent price wait until November/December. They seem to always go on sale for ~$10 a fan instead of the usual $13-16.


----------



## wolfwalker

Yeah I couldn't wait..









I might have missed it in the intervening 480 pages of this thread, but was there a problem as such with the early 620
VS the V4 or whatever it's called? I pretty much bought my V1 months ago at best buy and just stuck it in, marveling
at the fact that I could buy a self contained liquid cooler for $50, locally, and haven't really kept up.

M3TAI, I'm digging your drive cage position install, might try that.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't know if one version has more problems than the other. They all have pump problems from time to time (including every AIO brand, nature of the beast). Thankfully I've been lucky in that department. Both my 620 & 920 have had no pump noise problems.

Only "problem" I've had was running the 620 almost dry on my 7870 XT a few weeks ago, just like what happen to spikezone. Seems an air bubble got trapped in the pump while I had the case sitting flat on a table. Pump was clicking loudly and GPU was hiting 80+C while idling at 300 MHz .95V. Luckily tilting the case to where it was almost flat again (like how it was originally positioned on the table) while the pump was running got the water moving again.

It's been fine since that incident.


----------



## gstar888

thanks for the suggestions! will be getting the corsair SP120 quiet twin pack for a push pull config


----------



## lamain

Hi,

I've got an antec kühler 920 V4 so the chillcontrol v does not work for me. Apparently I need the chillcontrol VI, but none of the links in this thread or anywhere else work for me.
Can somebody mirror or send me chillcontrol VI (v6) for the 920 v4? I've got a pc with clear window and red lightning so I really need to change the (currently) green antec led.

Thnx


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I've got an antec kühler 920 V4 so the chillcontrol v does not work for me. Apparently I need the chillcontrol VI, but none of the links in this thread or anywhere else work for me.
> Can somebody mirror or send me chillcontrol VI (v6) for the 920 v4? I've got a pc with clear window and red lightning so I really need to change the (currently) green antec led.
> 
> Thnx


Try this one:
http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip

Source:
http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=704398&pid=102

But I think - that's the V1

I can't find any other links.
If that's not it - contact Antec Support.


----------



## lamain

Thank you for your reply, but this is the chillcontrol v version. I need the chillcontrol VI for the new v4 coolers.
I already tried the antec support, but they also pointed me to version 1.2 on their website. They said that if that didn't work, I would need to reinstall windows (and I am not going to do that because thats not the problem).

I saw that you posted this link on page 3xx somewhat: http://www.antec.com/download/H2O_920_software_v1.3.rar

Is it possible that that is the driver I'm talking about? The link gives me a 404 error


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> Thank you for your reply, but this is the chillcontrol v version. I need the chillcontrol VI for the new v4 coolers.
> I already tried the antec support, but they also pointed me to version 1.2 on their website. They said that if that didn't work, I would need to reinstall windows (and I am not going to do that because thats not the problem).
> 
> I saw that you posted this link on page 3xx somewhat: http://www.antec.com/download/H2O_920_software_v1.3.rar
> 
> Is it possible that that is the driver I'm talking about? The link gives me a 404 error


that was the latest one indeed. That's the VI I think.
That was on the antec support page - they must have removed it for some odd reason.
I don't have the software myself - I don't use it at all.
Only used it to disable the light.

Also are you kidding me, Antec told you to re-install windows - what have they been smoking lol?

PM'ed a regular user - who had the v1.3 installed himself - I'll see if I can get it.
If and when I do I'll let you know.

Your BEST BET is someone who has downloaded it and has the ability to upload it somewhere.
If that's the case, I'll download the file too - upload it to my OWN dropbox/dev-host and then LINK it in the OP.


----------



## lamain

Yep, I told Antec that there was a driver problem (690lc unknown device) after installing the new software, and they told me my windows installation was corrupted. But, that does not bother me, what bothers me is that I can't find the simple drivers for something I bought for 97 euros







.

But again, thank you for helping me.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

No problem mate - I've sent a PM to Antec too.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If you want the Cougars for a decent price wait until November/December. They seem to always go on sale for ~$10 a fan instead of the usual $13-16.


Got em in today, nice fans but the "ringing" at certain PWM controlled RPM's is intolerable. They aren't staying in there long.


----------



## M3TAl

I've only used them on a voltage based fan controller, can't comment on PWM







.


----------



## blaze2210

My 620 never even got the stock fan installed. As soon as I got it, I attached 2 of my Shark 120mm fans to it and never looked back....


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> Yep, I told Antec that there was a driver problem (690lc unknown device) after installing the new software, and they told me my windows installation was corrupted. But, that does not bother me, what bothers me is that I can't find the simple drivers for something I bought for 97 euros
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> But again, thank you for helping me.


Completely off topic but hey, lamain what kind of dog is that? Looks very similar to mine







.


----------



## lamain

This is a picture of my dog, the people I got him from say he is 100 % labrador, but I think there is something like pitbull in him









Other picture (which is somehow turned 90 degrees left) is my current setup with the antec 920, my setup is not finished yet. I want to sleeve the cables black/red and replace my fans by noiseblockers.

i5 4670k @ 4,6 ghz
asus maximus vi hero
16 gb corsair 1600mhz
asus gtx 680 direct cu 2 gb @ core 1180 memory 7005 mhz
antec kuhler 920 v4
coolermaster silent pro m2 850 watt
corsair obsidian 650d
Samsung 840 pro 256 gb + WD 7200 rpm 64 mb 1tb hdd


----------



## M3TAl

Mine is pit bull/lab mix too







. Was a rescue from the veterinarian. Best dog I've ever had.



And after a walk











Super clean system btw


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> This is a picture of my dog, the people I got him from say he is 100 % labrador, but I think there is something like pitbull in him
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Other picture (which is somehow turned 90 degrees left) is my current setup with the antec 920, my setup is not finished yet. I want to sleeve the cables black/red and replace my fans by noiseblockers.
> 
> i5 4670k @ 4,6 ghz
> asus maximus vi hero
> 16 gb corsair 1600mhz
> asus gtx 680 direct cu 2 gb @ core 1180 memory 7005 mhz
> antec kuhler 920 v4
> coolermaster silent pro m2 850 watt
> corsair obsidian 650d
> Samsung 840 pro 256 gb + WD 7200 rpm 64 mb 1tb hdd


lovely system mate!
And beautiful dogs lads!


----------



## lamain

Beautiful dog M3TAl, they do look a like indeed.


----------



## gstar888

got my 620 hooked up in my new Fractal R4 case, with dual SP120 silent edition fans in a push/pull config. Running an i2500k overclocked at 4.2GHz (1.336V core) and yet my idle temps are 36degC - googling around on the internet with this config, I've seen people getting below 30degC.

One thing I didn't do was replace the thermal paste on the 620 when moving my mb from my old case into this new one. Its been 2 years since I installed the 620, should I replace the thermal paste with something like Artic Silver MX?

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I would be wary of what you read on the internet.
With the i7 3770k and 920 I was at idle at around 30-35.
After delidding I'm now at 26-35c idle.
Load is the one that changed a lot. Went from 95c max temp to 70c after delidding. My point here is that you should be wary of what you read when you compare it to your system. Furthermore your volts seem a very high for that oc


----------



## inedenimadam

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> got my 620 hooked up in my new Fractal R4 case, with dual SP120 silent edition fans in a push/pull config. Running an i2500k overclocked at 4.2GHz (1.336V core) and yet my idle temps are 36degC - googling around on the internet with this config, I've seen people getting below 30degC.
> 
> One thing I didn't do was replace the thermal paste on the 620 when moving my mb from my old case into this new one. Its been 2 years since I installed the 620, should I replace the thermal paste with something like Artic Silver MX?
> 
> Thanks


Any statement involving CPU temperatures are incomplete without also knowing the ambient temperature. If you live in Peru and don't have AC, idling at 36 is wonderful, but if you live in Finland in Febuary, and you are testing with your window open....well, I think you catch my drift.


----------



## gstar888

Thanks for the response guys.

Ambient temps - I live in the south of the UK, right now room temps are 14degC. My motherboard was at 28degC when I recorded those figures.

After cleaning and applying Artic Cooling MX2 (pea method) my temps are the same right now, expecting them to decrease when the paste sets in. The cpu voltage is automatically set using MSI's built in overclocking turbo boost - for simplicity really. Should I be overclocking manually? My pc is very stable using turbo boost.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> Thanks for the response guys.
> 
> Ambient temps - I live in the south of the UK, right now room temps are 14degC. My motherboard was at 28degC when I recorded those figures.
> 
> After cleaning and applying Artic Cooling MX2 (pea method) my temps are the same right now, expecting them to decrease when the paste sets in. The cpu voltage is automatically set using MSI's built in overclocking turbo boost - for simplicity really. Should I be overclocking manually? My pc is very stable using turbo boost.


I would highly suggest manually OC'ing over the rubbish auto things they do.
1.3v is more than I would expect a SB to go to.

Now that I can't comment tat much about SB but for IB - 1.3v would render me with much higher temps.
@ 4.2ghz - a moderate OC, I would only have to run at around 1.1v - although the 0.2v doesn't seem like a lot - the temps difference you are looking at is around 10-15c, and I'm not joking.

I also live in the UK - Wimbledon to be precise.

Also just on another note - how are you monitoring your CPU temps? Don't used the motherboard temps as an indicator - you should be using core temp or real temp only.
FYI: I also have the R4, with a 920 and with MX2 applied on the IHS.


----------



## gstar888

Hi,

I'm using Aida64 to monitor temps, it shows CPU temps for each core, pakcage, IA Cores, and overall.

I'm gonna try lowering the voltage manually in the bios


----------



## gstar888

damnit. after remounting the 620 i'm getting the damn clicking noise. whats the best method to clear it?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *gstar888*
> 
> damnit. after remounting the 620 i'm getting the damn clicking noise. whats the best method to clear it?


Tilting it if it is trapped air.


----------



## lamain

Totally Dubbed is there any progress on the chillcontrol software?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> Totally Dubbed is there any progress on the chillcontrol software?


nothing mate - no news from antec - they've gone cold.
The other member doesn't have the files
The files are DELETED off the antec servers
And it SEEMS as if the files were in BETA mode when they were released.

If I were you I would contact Antec and tell them straight up:
"If you don't wish to give me to the correct software (and yes I have formatted windows and wasted my time *just lie about that*) - I will be buying a CORSAIR product instead."

Sometimes you have to push companies, rather than let therm push YOU.


----------



## ihatelolcats

has anyone tried increasing the mounting pressure of the 620 by using washers or shims behind the motherboard? the washers that came with the unit had too small ID to use , im going to look around for some better ones tomorrow


----------



## blaze2210

I didn't try it out with the Kuhler, but that's the setup I'm currently using with my H100i.....Since I didn't have access to any nifty plastic washers, I used some metal ones, and put them under the rubber grommets on the backplate. Now the pump is nice and snug....


----------



## M3TAl

Don't recall anyone trying that.


----------



## wolfwalker

So I wussed out and ordered a D14. And PWM fans for it.
If noise or temps either CPU or otherwise are objectionable I'll revisit water cooling.
It's been fun.

I actually wrote down some temp results tonight so I can test half-way accurately tomorrow.
27 ambient prime 95 for fifteen minutes saw 41C core, 47C CPU socket and 26C case, which didn't change.
Big case, lots of airflow. The only thing over 35C on the board, any of the half ten or so thermal sensors
on this Asus board, were the VRM's. I'm pretty pleased with 14 over ambient.
[email protected] with a little buss and a little multiplier, 1.45V.
15 minutes after test it's back to 21C core, 26C case and 30C CPU socket with light browsing and such.
It'll idle at 18C core when truly at rest, though that's a relative rather than absolute figure of course.

And that was with the Cougars on the 620 at about 75%, I haven't played with the Thermal Radar softare's
temp/speed curves, just left them on Turbo.

As much junk as is talked about the AIW coolers, I personally have been nothing but pleased with
the cooling performance and noise level on my 955BE and this 1090T, in a small case, and in this large case
(antec 1100). For $50 at Best Buy, I can't complain.
Only reason I'm looking at air again is I'm concerned with reliability, I've found myself turning my computer
off because I'm worried the pump might die while I'm asleep or something. I can't have that.
If that giant-ass D14 fans die, it'll chug along for a bit from case airflow I'm pretty confident.


----------



## lamain

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nothing mate - no news from antec - they've gone cold.
> The other member doesn't have the files
> The files are DELETED off the antec servers
> And it SEEMS as if the files were in BETA mode when they were released.
> 
> If I were you I would contact Antec and tell them straight up:
> "If you don't wish to give me to the correct software (and yes I have formatted windows and wasted my time *just lie about that*) - I will be buying a CORSAIR product instead."
> 
> Sometimes you have to push companies, rather than let therm push YOU.


Haha, I'll try that later, thnx. I came across linux drivers for the antec 920 v4, so tomorrow I'm going to install ubuntu on a second hard drive and see if I can get the led red.
I'm assuming the pump always runs at the same speed, because the asus maximus vi hero has an excellent fan controller, so I only need to turn the led from green to red.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> Haha, I'll try that later, thnx. I came across linux drivers for the antec 920 v4, so tomorrow I'm going to install ubuntu on a second hard drive and see if I can get the led red.
> I'm assuming the pump always runs at the same speed, because the asus maximus vi hero has an excellent fan controller, so I only need to turn the led from green to red.


the 920 indeed runs at 3k rpm all the time. At least it SHOULD.
Fan speeds though are variable and depend on load - if the software isn't working, I would suggest putting the fans in the motherboard.


----------



## M3TAl

Just fyi, my 920 pump reads 800-1100 RPM from the motherboard. Chill control always says 3000-3300 RPM.


----------



## wolfwalker

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *wolfwalker*
> 
> So I wussed out and ordered a D14. And PWM fans for it.
> If noise or temps either CPU or otherwise are objectionable I'll revisit water cooling.
> It's been fun.
> 
> I actually wrote down some temp results tonight so I can test half-way accurately tomorrow.
> 27 ambient prime 95 for fifteen minutes saw 41C core, 47C CPU socket and 26C case, which didn't change.
> Big case, lots of airflow. The only thing over 35C on the board, any of the half ten or so thermal sensors
> on this Asus board, were the VRM's. I'm pretty pleased with 14 over ambient.
> [email protected] with a little buss and a little multiplier, 1.45V.
> 15 minutes after test it's back to 21C core, 26C case and 30C CPU socket with light browsing and such.
> It'll idle at 18C core when truly at rest, though that's a relative rather than absolute figure of course.
> 
> And that was with the Cougars on the 620 at about 75%, I haven't played with the Thermal Radar softare's
> temp/speed curves, just left them on Turbo.
> 
> As much junk as is talked about the AIW coolers, I personally have been nothing but pleased with
> the cooling performance and noise level on my 955BE and this 1090T, in a small case, and in this large case
> (antec 1100). For $50 at Best Buy, I can't complain.
> Only reason I'm looking at air again is I'm concerned with reliability, I've found myself turning my computer
> off because I'm worried the pump might die while I'm asleep or something. I can't have that.
> If that giant-ass D14 fans die, it'll chug along for a bit from case airflow I'm pretty confident.


Same temps on D14, and it's quieter than push/pull cougars on the 620.
It also cost more than twice as much.
Mission accomplished though, just have to not bang my base around as much with that monstrocity hanging off my
poor board now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Just fyi, my 920 pump reads 800-1100 RPM from the motherboard. Chill control always says 3000-3300 RPM.


Isn't that the stock speeds for the fans?
I can't remember seeing pump speed readings in the bios...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> Haha, I'll try that later, thnx. I came across linux drivers for the antec 920 v4, so tomorrow I'm going to install ubuntu on a second hard drive and see if I can get the led red.
> I'm assuming the pump always runs at the same speed, because the asus maximus vi hero has an excellent fan controller, so I only need to turn the led from green to red.


Ante'c reply:

Sorry for the inconvenience but there is so many issues with the Chill Control version VI that's why we have to take it down from our website. Please download the CC V 1.2 because that's stable.

Once we've fixed the issues of the CC VI, we will push that software as an update.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lamain*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I've got an antec kühler 920 V4 so the chillcontrol v does not work for me. Apparently I need the chillcontrol VI, but none of the links in this thread or anywhere else work for me.
> Can somebody mirror or send me chillcontrol VI (v6) for the 920 v4? I've got a pc with clear window and red lightning so I really need to change the (currently) green antec led.
> 
> Thnx


Hi Lamain,

Please uninstall the Chill Control 6 on your system and restart your computer and downgrade the Chill Control 5 1.2

http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip

The Chill Control 6 has alot of bugs and issues and it won't let you control the fan settings and it should be compatible with Windows 8 but sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. We've removed the link on our website because we are still working on a fix for this version.

Thank You

Sorry for the inconvenience


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Hi Lamain,
> 
> Please uninstall the Chill Control 6 on your system and restart your computer and downgrade the Chill Control 5 1.2
> 
> http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip
> 
> The Chill Control 6 has alot of bugs and issues and it won't let you control the fan settings and it should be compatible with Windows 8 but sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. We've removed the link on our website because we are still working on a fix for this version.
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Sorry for the inconvenience


thanks for replying







!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Isn't that the stock speeds for the fans?
> I can't remember seeing pump speed readings in the bios...










You're right. Never noticed that before, always thought it was the pump. It's kind of weird since the fans are connected to that seperate cable, I had always assumed that the 3 pin/wire connector for pump power also showed pump RPM like the 620







.


----------



## MrfingerIII

Few pics of my 920


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Looks just like mine dude!
I actually got rid of the Z77 boards' fans as their whining noise annoyed me lol!


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^Looks just like mine dude!
> I actually got rid of the Z77 boards' fans as their whining noise annoyed me lol!


Mine are quiet I think the Corsairs SP's make more noise


----------



## CptDanko

I have lost all faith in antecs lineup of water cooling. Let me explain, I had a 620 last year. Was working fine. THen pump died one day, so I RMAed it. Ever since then I can never achieve the same temps. And after 3 RMAs now I know why. For some reason the waterblocks are not flat like they should be which means poor contact with CPU. I verified this with my latest 620 by using a credit card, as I put it over the surface of the waterblock I could clearly see the gap. Like a rounded surface.
Gonna RMA again and most likely sell it.

Switching to coolermaster eisburg.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> Mine are quiet I think the Corsairs SP's make more noise


Nop - for me I know for SURE it was the asus fans.
zzzzzzzzzzzziiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
Type noise lol
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> I have lost all faith in antecs lineup of water cooling. Let me explain, I had a 620 last year. Was working fine. THen pump died one day, so I RMAed it. Ever since then I can never achieve the same temps. And after 3 RMAs now I know why. For some reason the waterblocks are not flat like they should be which means poor contact with CPU. I verified this with my latest 620 by using a credit card, as I put it over the surface of the waterblock I could clearly see the gap. Like a rounded surface.
> Gonna RMA again and most likely sell it.
> 
> Switching to coolermaster eisburg.


Just an FYI - all waterblock, even expensive ones are not totally flat.
A lot of people lap their CPU's and waterblocks as they aren't flat.
Check your CPU too - I'm sure you'll find it isn't perfectly flat.


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nop - for me I know for SURE it was the asus fans.
> zzzzzzzzzzzziiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
> Type noise lol
> Just an FYI - all waterblock, even expensive ones are not totally flat.
> A lot of people lap their CPU's and waterblocks as they aren't flat.
> Check your CPU too - I'm sure you'll find it isn't perfectly flat.


I agree if you are having issues it would be with the paste or the fans ,I don't think any of them will be totally flat
I think you should try better fans the one's that come with the product sucks
Get some good Static pressure fans

I have both pumps and none of them ever gave me a issue I have bought a 620 to find out it didn't work but when I sent the rma in they gave me a good one and it's been chugging ever since


----------



## spikezone2004

How can you control the fan speed through the 620 pump?

I have never actually ran the fan through the pump before I normally hook it up to my fan controller but I just put my 620 onto my GPU and thought Id hook the pulling fan to the pump instead of my motherboard but not to sure as to how to control it since I never used that part before lol

EDIT: I am using Speefan for my side fan which is fan 2, my pump is connected to mobo which I am guessing is fan 3 at 1400rpm but doesnt do anything when I change level for pump or fan


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I control it via the BIOS for my 920


----------



## spikezone2004

I just plugged the fan straight into my mobo, cant control it through the 620. But I am liking these temps I am getting with it on my GPU


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I just plugged the fan straight into my mobo, cant control it through the 620. But I am liking these temps I am getting with it on my GPU


620 doesn't have a controller only the 920 does only way to control the fans is to attach them to the board and use the bios to control them

I have Both models I fully understood where you were going with that


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> 620 doesn't have a controller only the 920 does only way to control the fans is to attach them to the board and use the bios to control them
> 
> I have Both models I fully understood where you were going with that


Yea I plugged the fans into my mobo using speedfan to control them


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nop - for me I know for SURE it was the asus fans.
> zzzzzzzzzzzziiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii
> Type noise lol
> Just an FYI - all waterblock, even expensive ones are not totally flat.
> A lot of people lap their CPU's and waterblocks as they aren't flat.
> Check your CPU too - I'm sure you'll find it isn't perfectly flat.


Not true.
Lapping should not be necessary.
And the CPU is indeed totally flat, I see no gaps in it with credit card, and like I said, the first 620 I had was fine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Not true.
> Lapping should not be necessary.
> And the CPU is indeed totally flat, I see no gaps in it with credit card, and like I said, the first 620 I had was fine.


it isn't necessary, but it definitely is a problem. My cpu is not perfectly flat and nor is my 920. A lot of people lap because of that reason, believe me


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> it isn't necessary, but it definitely is a problem. My cpu is not perfectly flat and nor is my 920. A lot of people lap because of that reason, believe me


Lapping is done to get out air micro gaps and end up with a mirror finish, the gap im talking about it curved.


----------



## ihatelolcats

some heatsink makers make the plate slightly convex on purpose. not sure if antec does that or not. lapping most certainly can be used to flatten a surface, i've done it before. a mirror finish is really a byproduct of how flat you are making the metal, not the goal of lapping itself.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Not true.
> Lapping should not be necessary.
> And the CPU is indeed totally flat, I see no gaps in it with credit card, and like I said, the first 620 I had was fine.


CPU are not supposed to be flat from the factory. A CPU should be convex while most blocks should be concave (or maybe it's the other way around, don't remember exactly lol). This way they complement each other when installed.

Now how convex a CPU is and how concave a block is can vary a lot sadly







.

Also lapping is not at all for a mirror finish. The point is to lap both surfaces to get them as flat as possible. This way the surfaces make the best contact for best temps and only a very small amount of TIM is required.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> CPU are not supposed to be flat from the factory. A CPU should be convex while most blocks should be concave (or maybe it's the other way around, don't remember exactly lol). This way they complement each other when installed.
> 
> Now how convex a CPU is and how concave a block is can vary a lot sadly
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> Also lapping is not at all for a mirror finish. The point is to lap both surfaces to get them as flat as possible. This way the surfaces make the best contact for best temps and only a very small amount of TIM is required.


First 620 was flat


----------



## M3TAl

Ok then lap your new 620 flat. Doesn't void the warranty.


----------



## MrfingerIII

I honestly would send it back after dealing with the RMA process from Antec they can get pretty nasty when it comes to returning product defective
or altered just saying

Also if you are looking for a similar cooler don't go with Coolermaster go with Thermaltake Water Pro same basic set up with out going to another form of installing a new one


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> I honestly would send it back after dealing with the RMA process from Antec they can get pretty nasty when it comes to returning product defective
> or altered just saying
> 
> Also if you are looking for a similar cooler don't go with Coolermaster go with Thermaltake Water Pro same basic set up with out going to another form of installing a new one


somebody from Antec e-mailed you that comment? Just checking to see if you still have the e-mail and if you can forward it to me so I can check, please send them to [email protected]

Thank You


----------



## spikezone2004

Heres a pic of my 620 on my HD 6850 GPU incase anyone wanted to see it


----------



## M3TAl

ANTEC CS155, just curious if you can comment on the block/cold plate flatness? Aren't the plates supposed to be a little concave (or is it convex?) and not flat by design? That's how I've always understood it.

The CPU IHS and cold plate are not supposed to be flat from the factory?


----------



## blaze2210

Looks pretty good, what method did you use for mounting the Kuhler to the GPU? I've been seriously thinking about doing this to one of my GTX 760's....


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> somebody from Antec e-mailed you that comment? Just checking to see if you still have the e-mail and if you can forward it to me so I can check, please send them to [email protected]
> 
> Thank You


No but they did ask me for all the information and receipt after a year and a half of having it

Personally it is ridiculous to ask someone for all that information if they have the hard product in hand and the serial number on it

I had to go through hell and calling the store I got it from to look it up after a year I am lucky they even found it

My point is i'm not blasting Antec I just think they shouldn't make you jump through hoops

I did an RMA on a Corsair PSU they told me to send it in ASAP I didn't need to jump hoops they asked for the serial on the product that was it
Just like MSI

So I would assume if they altered the product Antec would reject it and leave him with a paper weight just saying


----------



## M3TAl

Actually asking for proof of purchase is common practice for RMA'ing just about anything.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Actually asking for proof of purchase is common practice for RMA'ing just about anything.


I agree.
Some companies are nice enough not to ask for it - but those companies are rare - ie MSI and Corsair are an exception.
I should also point out that Corsair have lifetime warranty on some products too.


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Looks pretty good, what method did you use for mounting the Kuhler to the GPU? I've been seriously thinking about doing this to one of my GTX 760's....


Thank you, I used the sigma cool mount.

for the RMA topic, I recently RMA'd my 620 for having very little liquid making loud noises because no liquid running through pump/ air bubbles and they asked me for a receipt I told them I have no idea where the receipt would possibly be and they didnt mention it again after that and I got an Advanced RMA so I could still use it (since it still worked just not to its fullest potential).

They just asked for the serial so they could verify it


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Actually asking for proof of purchase is common practice for RMA'ing just about anything.


That really wasn't what I was getting at of course they will ask for this but I mean after a year or two of use who will still have the original proof of sale

I also have saved some of them and after a year the ink has been rubbed out even though they were kept somewhere in a sealed bag

If the product has a warranty of 3 years it shouldn't be any issue with just getting it returned not everyone is a liar and by the product number on the RAD itself they can trace when it was made and when it was sent out to be bought


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> Thank you, I used the sigma cool mount.
> 
> for the RMA topic, I recently RMA'd my 620 for having very little liquid making loud noises because no liquid running through pump/ air bubbles and they asked me for a receipt I told them I have no idea where the receipt would possibly be and they didnt mention it again after that and I got an Advanced RMA so I could still use it (since it still worked just not to its fullest potential).
> 
> They just asked for the serial so they could verify it


In my case they made me go looking for everything like a Bloodhound

That further makes my case even more relevant


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> I also have saved some of them and after a year the ink has been rubbed out even though they were kept somewhere in a sealed bag


Oxygen isn't the only thing that wrecks receipts, they're generally printed on thermal paper. If they were kept near a heat source, that can mess with the printing also.


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Oxygen isn't the only thing that wrecks receipts, they're generally printed on thermal paper. If they were kept near a heat source, that can mess with the printing also.


That could be winter time is pretty cold and we turn on the Heat


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> No but they did ask me for all the information and receipt after a year and a half of having it
> 
> Personally it is ridiculous to ask someone for all that information if they have the hard product in hand and the serial number on it
> 
> I had to go through hell and calling the store I got it from to look it up after a year I am lucky they even found it
> 
> My point is i'm not blasting Antec I just think they shouldn't make you jump through hoops
> 
> I did an RMA on a Corsair PSU they told me to send it in ASAP I didn't need to jump hoops they asked for the serial on the product that was it
> Just like MSI
> 
> So I would assume if they altered the product Antec would reject it and leave him with a paper weight just saying


Sorry, it's necessary for us to ask a copy of a proof of purchase. But on the other hand, you don't have to get butt hurt if we asked you this documents and you don't have them. You can just tell us straight up on where did you purchase it and when. We are lenient and can give some few exemptions to your warranty replacement. We only ask this so we can guarantee that you've purchased our product and we will honor our warranty.

There are few incidents where customer RMA some of our products but when we received it, it's not an Antec product. For example, a customer wants to RMA the whole case, customer claimed its a 900, but when we received the product, it was a Corsair Obsidian 900D and we don't like to see customer pay for shipping back the wrong merchandise.

I hope you understand

Thanks


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> ANTEC CS155, just curious if you can comment on the block/cold plate flatness? Aren't the plates supposed to be a little concave (or is it convex?) and not flat by design? That's how I've always understood it.
> 
> The CPU IHS and cold plate are not supposed to be flat from the factory?


Hi

Thanks for the inquiry, the cold plate looks pretty flat to me, I'm attaching you some photos

This is the cold plate from the kuhler 920



This is the same cooling plate that Asetek uses on some of their watercooling units.

Our New line of cooling units have bigger cooling plates, (650, 950 and 1250)
Here are some photos of the cooling plate






Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Thanks a lot for those replies!


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Sorry, it's necessary for us to ask a copy of a proof of purchase. But on the other hand, you don't have to get butt hurt if we asked you this documents and you don't have them. You can just tell us straight up on where did you purchase it and when. We are lenient and can give some few exemptions to your warranty replacement. We only ask this so we can guarantee that you've purchased our product and we will honor our warranty.
> 
> There are few incidents where customer RMA some of our products but when we received it, it's not an Antec product. For example, a customer wants to RMA the whole case, customer claimed its a 900, but when we received the product, it was a Corsair Obsidian 900D and we don't like to see customer pay for shipping back the wrong merchandise.
> 
> I hope you understand
> 
> Thanks


lol no one is getting butt hurt just saying I gave them that very excuse and they told me they weren't going to help me otherwise

I was real polite about it as well and they wouldn't budge maybe next time i'll contact you because you do seem more for the people


----------



## blaze2210

Dude, basically they need to make sure you didn't find it in a dumpster or buy it from someone on Craigslist or eBay....Since warranties only apply to the original owner - they don't transfer over if they're sold....If you are the original owner of that unit, then it's reasonable to assume that you would have all of the documentation for it.

If you bought it with a credit card, then you might be able to get a receipt from your credit card company, but you'd have to verify if Antec would accept that. That'ss what my dad had to do in order to use the warranty on a Bluetooth headset he bought.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ok then lap your new 620 flat. Doesn't void the warranty.


Lapping should not be a requirement. It should work fine out of box.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> I honestly would send it back after dealing with the RMA process from Antec they can get pretty nasty when it comes to returning product defective
> or altered just saying
> 
> Also if you are looking for a similar cooler don't go with Coolermaster go with Thermaltake Water Pro same basic set up with out going to another form of installing a new one


The cooler master eisburg seems to be giving lowest temps in all reviews. Plus I can tell the surface is nice and flat even though its not a complete mirror finish.
What the 620 suffers from is called a "bow"


----------



## blaze2210

If there is a bow in it, then you should rma it....or consider a different thermal compound and application method....My kuhler 620 is flat....


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Here is a side by side comparison of the Kuhler 920 cooling plate and the new Kuhler 950 cooling plate assembly


And here is the disassembled Kuhler 920 taken off from the pump unit


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> If there is a bow in it, then you should rma it....or consider a different thermal compound and application method....My kuhler 620 is flat....


Different thermal compound wouldn't make a difference considering under load socket temps were reaching 100 and cpu temp over 60 at stock speeds and voltage.
Already tried reinstalling and reapplying almost a dozen times.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Different thermal compound wouldn't make a difference considering under load socket temps were reaching 100 and cpu temp over 60 at stock speeds and voltage.
> Already tried reinstalling and reapplying almost a dozen times.


Well, thats not entirely true. A thicker thermal compound would be able to fill in gaps better, since it's not as willing to spread. A thick compound like Antec Formula 7, or Shin Etsu would be a good bet in helping fill the gap between two uneven surfaces. Also, I would avoid spreading the compound yourself - there's no need for it. If you're securing the heatsink properly, and have the proper amount of compound on there, it will spread itself.

If you're getting those types of temps with stock settings, then something is wrong. You might have some air bubbles in the compound, or the unit might not be getting good contact with the CPU.


----------



## CptDanko

I am using formula 7. And yes there is something not right, the surface of the 620 is not flat hence not making proper contact.

First 620 I had worked fine with first install. After I RMAed that one due to pump failure all replacements have been massive failure with insane temps.


----------



## oshu

I have three antec 620's and I want to plug them all into this cable:

The cable itself will be plugged in to the MB.
Will this cause any problem with the pumps? (Note; I'm not using the 3-pin female on the antec 620.)


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> I have three antec 620's and I want to plug them all into this cable:
> 
> The cable itself will be plugged in to the MB.
> Will this cause any problem with the pumps? (Note; I'm not using the 3-pin female on the antec 620.)


plugging in the fan directly to the motherboard is just fine, it won't damage the unit.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> I am using formula 7. And yes there is something not right, the surface of the 620 is not flat hence not making proper contact.
> 
> First 620 I had worked fine with first install. After I RMAed that one due to pump failure all replacements have been massive failure with insane temps.


What is your RMA number so we can check when did you last process your RMA? please e-mail us at [email protected]

The Kuhler 620 cooling plate should not be bulging and should always be flat, If you can send us some photos of these area, that would help us resolve your issue.

Thanks


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> plugging in the fan directly to the motherboard is just fine, it won't damage the unit.


I guess what I'm asking is... can 3x Antec 620 pumps run on a single 3-pin from the motherboard?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> plugging in the fan directly to the motherboard is just fine, it won't damage the unit.


Although one thing you have to bear in mind here, is your motherboards output in amps.
Pumps require a certain amperage and some motherboard have limited amperage on pins.
Can't remember where this was discussed but I remember seeing it, when I thought of getting a splitter.

Out of interest, why do you have 3 antec 620's and why are you using 1 fan header?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> I have three antec 620's and I want to plug them all into this cable:
> 
> The cable itself will be plugged in to the MB.
> Will this cause any problem with the pumps? (Note; I'm not using the 3-pin female on the antec 620.)


Be aware that the typical motherboard header provides 1 Amp/12 Watts. If you overload the header it can burn out.

Not sure what the actual power draw is for the 620 pump (especially when the V1 and V4 may be different). Hopefully running 3 off the same header doesn't exceed 1 Amp.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Although one thing you have to bear in mind here, is your motherboards output in amps.
> Pumps require a certain amperage and some motherboard have limited amperage on pins.
> Can't remember where this was discussed but I remember seeing it, when I thought of getting a splitter.
> 
> Out of interest, why do you have 3 antec 620's and why are you using 1 fan header?


Hehe. I have one on my cpu, and one on each graphics card







.
Only reason I want to use one fan header for all of them is simply to reduce the amount of visible wires.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Hehe. I have one on my cpu, and one on each graphics card
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> Only reason I want to use one fan header for all of them is simply to reduce the amount of visible wires.


I would not only advise against that, but also warn you for not doing that.
Your 620 pump for the CPU should be in the CPU header.
And your GPU ones, I would try and link them together, in order to run at the same speed.
THIS is simply to avoid the GPU relying on the CPU temps and vice versa.

This is if I'm not mistaken...the cable you have for your 620 is NOT your fan headers but your PUMP wire that USUALLY plugs into the CPU header - correct?


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> What is your RMA number so we can check when did you last process your RMA? please e-mail us at [email protected]
> 
> The Kuhler 620 cooling plate should not be bulging and should always be flat, If you can send us some photos of these area, that would help us resolve your issue.
> 
> Thanks


I already sent my ticket ID to your RMA dept.

Photos wouldn't show this anyways. I verified the "bowing" with a credit card.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> I already sent my ticket ID to your RMA dept.
> 
> Photos wouldn't show this anyways. I verified the "bowing" with a credit card.


I don't understand: if you can check it with a credit card to see that it's not flat, why can't you take a pic of that "credit card test" and post it in here? Out of sheer curiosity, what method do you use for applying the thermal compound?


----------



## CptDanko

As I already stated I tried reapplying. Pea method and spread method. No difference in results. THe fact that your quoting my credit card tests is kind of obnoxious.
First of all a photo would not capture the view to see that it is bowed. So don't play dumb with me that you don't understand. Your product comes from asetek and they are not all the same, I notice this unit is V4. Im going to guess the version I had that actually worked was an earlier version.

And the fact that you question if I replied paste shows quite some ignorance, bad thermalpaste does not mean 100 degree socket temps. I have been a tech probably longer then you even touched a comp, I know when a product is defective.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys keep it civil please


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> As I already stated I tried reapplying. Pea method and spread method. No difference in results. THe fact that your quoting my credit card tests is kind of obnoxious.
> First of all a photo would not capture the view to see that it is bowed. So don't play dumb with me that you don't understand. Your product comes from asetek and they are not all the same, I notice this unit is V4. Im going to guess the version I had that actually worked was an earlier version.
> 
> And the fact that you question if I replied paste shows quite some ignorance, bad thermalpaste does not mean 100 degree socket temps. I have been a tech probably longer then you even touched a comp, I know when a product is defective.


No need to get like that, I'm merely stating that if you can tell that it's not a flat surface by using a credit card, then why can't a pic be taken of it? I'm sure that pic would be useful to the Antec rep that's in here. As far as the thermal compound question is concerned, as I stated, I am curious as to what method you were using. There is no reason to get that kind of attitude, I'm simply ruling out the easy solutions. Trying to ping my experience is unreasonable, I'm trying to help you figure out the issue.


----------



## CptDanko

Posting a pic will do nothing. There is nothing the antec rep can do about it. Its futile.
Unless I lap the bottom which I refuse to do since every cooler I ever had never needed lapping. The fact that you would need to lap out of the box is a joke.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Posting a pic will do nothing. There is nothing the antec rep can do about it. Its futile.
> Unless I lap the bottom which I refuse to do since every cooler I ever had never needed lapping. The fact that you would need to lap out of the box is a joke.


If it's like that out of the box, I would RMA it for a new one. As you said, it should not be like that, and apparently, you got a defective one. Even though I only paid $30 for mine, if it didn't work, I would certainly exchange it for a new one. I also have the V4, and am currently debating whether or not I want to mount it on one of my GTX 760's....


----------



## CptDanko

Yeah well this is like the 4th time I RMA.....


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Yeah well this is like the 4th time I RMA.....


Ah, I see now....That would get really old - really fast. That's a bummer. Well, on the bright side: it's a cheap enough unit to tear apart and customize. Get a cheap pump, some cheap tubing, a decent cheap waterblock and make a small custom loop....


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Be aware that the typical motherboard header provides 1 Amp/12 Watts. If you overload the header it can burn out.
> 
> Not sure what the actual power draw is for the 620 pump (especially when the V1 and V4 may be different). Hopefully running 3 off the same header doesn't exceed 1 Amp.


Thank you for your detailed answer!
Maybe I should email Antec and ask if the 620 V4 pump exceeds 0.33 Amps...


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Thank you for your detailed answer!
> Maybe I should email Antec and ask if the 620 V4 pump exceeds 0.33 Amps...


If I remember correctly on the radiator it shows amps/watts on the serial number sticker.

And for the 4th time RMA'ing subject, when I RMAd mine I was sent a brand new unit as far as I can tell. It was in the box you would get from the store and shrink wrapped just like from the store I thought I was going to receive a refurbished unit but seemed to be brand new. normally reburbs are in plain boxes and such.

CptDanko, When you send yours in are they fixing it or replacing it?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> If I remember correctly on the radiator it shows amps/watts on the serial number sticker.


The sticker on my V4 says 7.5W, if that helps....


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> If I remember correctly on the radiator it shows amps/watts on the serial number sticker.


http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/antec-kuhler-620_2.html

"The peak power consumption is 2.6 watts."

I guess three of them should run fine on a single header?


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/coolers/display/antec-kuhler-620_2.html
> 
> "The peak power consumption is 2.6 watts."
> 
> I guess three of them should run fine on a single header?


That article was published in 2011, as blaze2210 said his sticker says 7.5watts. When I received my V4 replacement compared to my V1 I did a comparison and the V1 used less watts, I believe 3 something I can't remember exactly Id have to look which is probably what they got they 2.6watt number from, it will be more now if he has all V4s and such.

I dont know how acurate this is but 7.5 watts on 12 Volts DC is 0.625 amps. which 3x is 1.875 amps

if it is all V1 which I found the picture off that I took hard to read looks like 3.3 volts ill round it up to 3.5 on 12 volts DC is 0.292 amps and 3x 0.876 amps

I used watts/volts to amps converter.


----------



## blaze2210

I just bought my 620 less than a month ago, brand new. It's the V4, which I believe is the latest version.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> That article was published in 2011, as blaze2210 said his sticker says 7.5watts. When I received my V4 replacement compared to my V1 I did a comparison and the V1 used less watts, I believe 3 something I can't remember exactly Id have to look which is probably what they got they 2.6watt number from, it will be more now if he has all V4s and such.
> 
> I dont know how acurate this is but 7.5 watts on 12 Volts DC is 0.625 amps. which 3x is 1.875 amps
> 
> if it is all V1 which I found the picture off that I took hard to read looks like 3.3 volts ill round it up to 3.5 on 12 volts DC is 0.292 amps and 3x 0.876 amps
> 
> I used watts/volts to amps converter.


Could it be this pump on the 620 v4? http://www.asetek.com/images/stories/products/oem-standard-products/570lc/570lc_data_sheet.pdf


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm just curious - you are at 100c , what voltage and OC you running at?

I used to be at 95c under Prime95 with 1.27v on my Antec920.
I RMA'ed mine and it was reported as "not faulty" and sent back to me like that.
I just accepted it, seeing as I don't prime every day, and then de-lidded my i7.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Ah, I see now....That would get really old - really fast. That's a bummer. Well, on the bright side: it's a cheap enough unit to tear apart and customize. Get a cheap pump, some cheap tubing, a decent cheap waterblock and make a small custom loop....


Nah, would rather just buy an eisburg


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Nah, would rather just buy an eisburg


You like Coolermaster I heard they are noisie

You don't like any Thermaltake Rads like the PRO or Extreme ????


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Thank you for your detailed answer!
> Maybe I should email Antec and ask if the 620 V4 pump exceeds 0.33 Amps...


Kuhler 620 input:
Operating Voltage: 12 VDC
Rated Current: 430 mA with 2000 RPM fan
Input Power: 5.2 W

Kuhler 920 Input:
Operating Voltage: 12 VDC
Rated Current: 1200mA with 2x 2400RPM Fans
Input Power: 14.5W

Thank you


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Kuhler 620 input:
> Operating Voltage: 12 VDC
> Rated Current: 430 mA with 2000 RPM fan
> Input Power: 5.2 W
> 
> Kuhler 920 Input:
> Operating Voltage: 12 VDC
> Rated Current: 1200mA with 2x 2400RPM Fans
> Input Power: 14.5W
> 
> Thank you


I'll add this to the OP!


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Kuhler 620 input:
> Operating Voltage: 12 VDC
> Rated Current: 430 mA with 2000 RPM fan
> Input Power: 5.2 W


And here's from your email support regarding the 620:

"Without the fan it's still running 12VDC and the Amperage is .13 amperes.

Thank You

Antec Support Team"


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MrfingerIII*
> 
> You like Coolermaster I heard they are noisie
> 
> You don't like any Thermaltake Rads like the PRO or Extreme ????


The eisburg is only noisy with 12v pump. If you use the 5v plug its a lot more quiet.

Thermaltake if im not mistaken are just rebadged Aseteks like the Antecs


----------



## MrfingerIII

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> The eisburg is only noisy with 12v pump. If you use the 5v plug its a lot more quiet.
> 
> Thermaltake if im not mistaken are just rebadged Aseteks like the Antecs


You are correct the Thermaltakes are Aseteks


----------



## go7roo7

How can I be sure the pump is actually running? If the fan is moving it means the pump is running?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *go7roo7*
> 
> How can I be sure the pump is actually running? If the fan is moving it means the pump is running?


You can touch the tubes and feel the vibration from the liquid passing through it. As far as getting a reading on exactly how fast/slow its moving, I'm not real sure....


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *go7roo7*
> 
> How can I be sure the pump is actually running? If the fan is moving it means the pump is running?


You can touch the tubes and feel the vibration from the liquid passing through it. As far as getting a reading on exactly how fast/slow its moving, I'm not real sure....


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *go7roo7*
> 
> How can I be sure the pump is actually running? If the fan is moving it means the pump is running?


Feel the block if it has a vibration to it, and when you turn on computer you should be able to hear it start up. you can check the speed in any monitoring program assuming you have it connected to your motherboard


----------



## Totally Dubbed

And on top on what the others said, if you got the 920, you can see its rpm being displayed via the software


----------



## ut0ugh1

is it possible to know some spec flowrate, prevalence noise, inner diameter, outer diameter of tubing, dimension of barbs, radiator fins per inches thanks.


----------



## SavageBrat

Hello All, is there a guide for setting up the fans?


----------



## M3TAl

LOL oops, thought I was in diff thread.

The tubing size is somewhere on the web, and flow rate is very low though not sure a Kuhler has been tested.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Hello All, is there a guide for setting up the fans?


you got the installation guide in the OP. Should give you an idea for the fans


----------



## blaze2210

Setting up the fans is kinda dependent on your current case air flow and where you mount the radiator. If mounting on top or in the back, it would generally be exhaust. In my case, I have 2 spaces for fans, so I was using mine as intake in a push/pull setup


----------



## SavageBrat

Guess I should have made myself explained it a little bit better, as I have the fans setup in a push /pull, rear mounted on my case that's not the issue, but what I wanted to say how do you control the fan speed? Is it done through the bios as the software doesn't have any controls for the speed. (fans connected to the y cable then plugged into the cpu fan header.)


----------



## blaze2210

Yes, for the 620, the fans would either be controlled either through the BIOS/UEFI settings.


----------



## oshu

Woop woop


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> Guess I should have made myself explained it a little bit better, as I have the fans setup in a push /pull, rear mounted on my case that's not the issue, but what I wanted to say how do you control the fan speed? Is it done through the bios as the software doesn't have any controls for the speed. (fans connected to the y cable then plugged into the cpu fan header.)


If you have the fans connected to your motherboard you can control them though speed fan that is what I do. I have all my other fans on fan controller and my 620 ones on my mobo using speed fan. couple settings you have to change in speed fan to let you change the speeds though


----------



## M3TAl

Does he have the 620 or 920?


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does he have the 620 or 920?


I thought he said the 620 thats why I suggested speedfan otherwise if he has the 920 he can use the Antec software which Totally Dubbed recommended but i dont think he stated which one he has.


----------



## M3TAl

Well he said something about no fan control in the software. Motherboard software or Antec/Asetek software? Obviously the Antec software has fan control assuming your fans are PWM. Same for speed fan, need PWM fans.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does he have the 620 or 920?


That was probably the first question we should have asked....hehehehe....


----------



## SavageBrat

AMD Version ,,920


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SavageBrat*
> 
> AMD Version ,,920


The fans on your 920 are controlled via the provided software....


----------



## Krautzman

Usually just a vacuum with or without a brush attachment is sufficient to remove built up dust.








However sometimes for more stubborn dust build up , compressed air works far better to help break up the layers of dust.









When you actually attempt to remove the dust , it is best and easier to suck it out with the vacuum on the side that the fans are pushing the air through the rad.
If using compressed air blow from the exit side of the rad with regards to air flow , also I like to have a vacuum running on the other side to suck up the dust particles as they are blown through.
That way the dust doesn't just end up deposited somewhere else in the case.









The best thing is to place filter mesh in front of all input fans (especially all input case fans and seal up other case leaks )







, this way far less dust can get deposited onto the rad internals to start with and is much easier to clean up. I do mine every week , as the house I'm in is very dusty , lots of carpet , pets , smokers.


----------



## dioxholster

anyone experience loud noise from Antec Kuhler H2O 620 when waking from sleep? it lasts 5 minutes and happens everytime. Ive had it for almost a year but only now does it do that. its like engine noise, or chainsaw.

could this be due to pump not being primed or Smart Fan Control?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> anyone experience loud noise from Antec Kuhler H2O 620 when waking from sleep? it lasts 5 minutes and happens everytime. Ive had it for almost a year but only now does it do that. its like engine noise, or chainsaw.
> 
> could this be due to pump not being primed or Smart Fan Control?


sounds like something is wrong with the pump if you ask me!


----------



## blaze2210

I'm gonna have to agree with Dubbed on this one - sounds like your pump isn't functioning correctly....


----------



## dioxholster

the temps are normal. when the noise happens the temps actually lower than normal. My normal is 36c, during noise at startup its 29c. are temps good indicators of pumps performance?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> the temps are normal. when the noise happens the temps actually lower than normal. My normal is 36c, during noise at startup its 29c.


at least that's a good sign - but "engine noise" shouldn't ever be present.
Could even be something within the pump - like rattling - one could say a rock or something lol.


----------



## dioxholster

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> at least that's a good sign - but "engine noise" shouldn't ever be present.
> Could even be something within the pump - like rattling - one could say a rock or something lol.


well yes if you put a bunch of rocks in a blender, then thats how they sound. I forgot to say that when my PC sleeps on its own utorrent wakes it up immediatly, i wonder if sleeping/waking instantly has something to do with stressing the pump?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> well yes if you put a bunch of rocks in a blender, then thats how they sound. I forgot to say that when my PC sleeps on its own utorrent wakes it up immediatly, i wonder if sleeping/waking instantly has something to do with stressing the pump?


It shouldn't as mine has no problems in that relation - although it is the 920 - same pump really.


----------



## M3TAl

Possibly a trapped air bubble? Where is the radiator positioned in the case?


----------



## dioxholster

thats basically what it looks like using a bad camera:


----------



## blaze2210

Have you tried mounting the radiator on the top of the case? Not sure if your case has that option or not, but might be worth a shot....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> thats basically what it looks like using a bad camera:


Tried flipping the radiator?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Tried flipping the radiator?


I second that - try turning the radiator so the tubes are on the bottom.


----------



## dioxholster

You mean flipping it is better? i dont know how i can have the tubes resting comfortably like that. Id have to flip the pump with it to get the tubes going around it. While i dont doubt that might work, why would it make that noise all of a sudden when it worked okay for a year?


----------



## M3TAl

The tubes can handle quite a bit of bending and punishment.

We're suggesting to flip it because the built in reservoir is currently below the pump/block. Having the reservoir above the pump may help so the air will get trapped at the highest point (the reservoir).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> You mean flipping it is better? i dont know how i can have the tubes resting comfortably like that. Id have to flip the pump with it to get the tubes going around it. While i dont doubt that might work, why would it make that noise all of a sudden when it worked okay for a year?


this is how it will look like if you flip it - my rig:


----------



## dioxholster

so it should be like this, taken from antec blog:



but the gpu is all way down, if i do this, the gpu pins at its back will bite into the tube.

edit:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> this is how it will look like if you flip it - my rig:


i guess i could give it a shot.


----------



## M3TAl

It doesn't have to be that way. It just might help. Doesn't hurt to try.


----------



## dioxholster

i did agonize over positioning when i first installed it, there are pros and cons for everything. but we all agree that the noise isnt indication of failure?


----------



## M3TAl

I believe it to be air trapped in the pump because it only happens when your pc is sleeping so the pump is off. And you say it goes away after a few minutes correct? Sounds like air being worked out of the pump to me.

I have run my pump near dry before and it is very loud. Loud buzzing/grinding type sound.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *dioxholster*
> 
> i did agonize over positioning when i first installed it, there are pros and cons for everything. but we all agree that the noise isnt indication of failure?


I wouldn't start thinking part failure until the pump constantly makes that noise. For now, it's probably just signifying that it's time to flip that radiator over.....


----------



## M3TAl

Do any of you have problems with chill control crashing? Mine does this maybe once or twice a week. Don't think it's Windows just reformatted 2-3 weeks ago, it crashed before the format too.

Just crashed with Fault Module Name: mscorwks.dll


----------



## hangman

I've never had it crash. That file is a core .Net 2 file. After reformatting/reinstalling have you also applied all the .Net updates+service packs for the older .Net versions like 1.1/2.0 ? If not, that's the first thing I would try.


----------



## M3TAl

If those are included in windows updates then yes, all updates are installed.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> I have three antec 620's and I want to plug them all into this cable:
> 
> The cable itself will be plugged in to the MB.
> Will this cause any problem with the pumps? (Note; I'm not using the 3-pin female on the antec 620.)


Got my 3x Antec 620 v4's up and running from a 4pin molex instead of a MB fan header and its working, but still using this splitter.

The pumps were opened up, removed the female fan connectors and sleeved the males.



No fan headers on the MB are being used, the 10x Gentle Typhoons are all connected to a NZXT Grid.

<3 Antec


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> Got my 3x Antec 620 v4's up and running from a 4pin molex instead of a MB fan header and its working, but still using this splitter.
> 
> The pumps were opened up, removed the female fan connectors and sleeved the males.
> 
> 
> 
> No fan headers on the MB are being used, the 10x Gentle Typhoons are all connected to a NZXT Grid.
> 
> <3 Antec


3xantec 620+10x gentle,i just see *how to spent 300€*







(if you buy those from finland)
too expensive for me i would say


----------



## spikezone2004

That is clean looking nice and tidy, where do you have your harddrives?


----------



## M3TAl

Probably SSD's on the back of mobo tray.


----------



## oshu

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Probably SSD's on the back of mobo tray.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> That is clean looking nice and tidy, where do you have your harddrives?


Yes, two ssd's behind the mobo








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> 3xantec 620+10x gentle,i just see *how to spent 300€*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (if you buy those from finland)
> too expensive for me i would say


Meh, oc.net is not about money


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looks absolutely beautiful! Great job


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Guys - got some exciting news from Antec.
Antec are going to be releasing the Antec 650, 950 and 1250!
I've been contacted by Antec to possibly do some tests of their new cooling systems. More to come, when I know.

For the time being - for anyone that's done any mods to their Antec units or has technical know-how on how to. Please send me a PM, as hopefully Antec might be able to provide a few members with some units to do some cool experiments with!

I'll let you know when I receive them, might take a few weeks - and I'll review them and possibly do something a little out of the ordinary with them too









EDIT:
Some cool info about them:
They are made in-house and no longer by Asetek!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Guys - got some exciting news from Antec.
> Antec are going to be releasing the Antec 650, 950 and 1250!
> I've been contacted by Antec to possibly do some tests of their new cooling systems. More to come, when I know.
> 
> For the time being - for anyone that's done any mods to their Antec units or has technical know-how on how to. Please send me a PM, as hopefully Antec might be able to provide a few members with some units to do some cool experiments with!
> 
> I'll let you know when I receive them, might take a few weeks - and I'll review them and possibly do something a little out of the ordinary with them too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT:
> Some cool info about them:
> They are made in-house and no longer by Asetek!


I thought about modding mine, and did a bunch of research on how to do it - does that count?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I thought about modding mine, and did a bunch of research on how to do it - does that count?


I'll send you a PM


----------



## Maximization

EDIT:
Some cool info about them:
They are made in-house and no longer by Asetek!

Now thats interesting


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> EDIT:
> Some cool info about them:
> They are made in-house and no longer by Asetek!
> 
> Now thats interesting


Trying to get a pic for you guys of the mounting system of the 950 and some pump info


----------



## M3TAl

Yes, yes. Needs more infos! Want to know all about the pump specs, radiator aluminum or copper, fan specs, etc.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

When I have more info, I'll put up a new thread with pictures


----------



## Sinclair

Hello, I wanted to let you know that I get better performance if I have the hoses at the top of the radiator instead of the bottom. I experimented both ways. Playing World of Tanks the liquid temp was reaching 47-48 degrees C with hoses at the bottom, but only 43 deg C when hoses are at the top. The only explanation I can think of is that when hoses are at the bottom the pump has to push against the weight of the water, whereas at the top the radiator acts more like a reservoir and because there is less water pressure, the water can circulate faster. My case is an antec 900 and the top of the rad sits higher than the waterblock so the air settles at the top of the rad.


----------



## DjBodya

Found A video from newegg with some info about the new radiators from Antec and bunch of other cool stuff.


----------



## M3TAl

Unfortunately my home phone, tv, and internet have been down all day and seems it won't be coming back. Probably switching providers on Monday.

Would love to watch the video but this phone data plan is extremely small so watching it is probably a bad idea.


----------



## M3TAl

Technician just fixed everything (hopefully)







. Watching that vid now









EDIT: Some of those fans in the background look like Cougar Vortexes but they're Antec fans?

One back plate for Intel and AMD, very nice









I'm still skeptical about the fan being connected to the pump, does this also mean you can't change the orientation of the fan? So you can't flip the fan around to go from intake to exhaust or pull from push?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Technician just fixed everything (hopefully)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . Watching that vid now
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm still skeptical about the fan being connected to the pump, does this also mean you can't change the orientation of the fan? So you can't flip the fan around to go from intake to exhaust or pull from push?


As far as I'm aware, from the video - my guess is that you can't change orientation - which would bed a limitation.
Even antec support once told me to switch around the fans to get better temps - and it did.


----------



## M3TAl

Ya, I prefer intake. Hotter case temps don't bother me if it means 3-4C better CPU core temps.

It looks like the fan/pump combo is removable from the radiator maybe? Really not sure that 1250 would actually fit in the top of a 690 II Advanced with how the pump sticks out and the tubing. If the rad can be removed from the fans it might be possible. Either the fans or the rad will have to go up top between the mesh and metal. There's only maybe 30-35mm up there though and maybe 35-40mm from the ram slots to the top metal.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

If I get my hands on them I'll definitely do tests and measurements







!


----------



## DjBodya

Yea I have a weird orientation on my current rad right now with one set pulling air into the case and the other pushing air out.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Yea I have a weird orientation on my current rad right now with one set pulling air into the case and the other pushing air out.


What cooler are you using? On a 620/920, that would mean that the air isn't going anywhere....


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> What cooler are you using? On a 620/920, that would mean that the air isn't going anywhere....


Oh sorry I was talking about a 120mm rad there







. This is my set up in my case.

The computer which I have the 920 in does take the air from the outside.


----------



## c0ld

So I want to upgrade the fans on my 920 since im hiting around 85C on the hottest core, the rest ar around 75-78C. I have my CPU now at 4.8GHz.

Are the AP-15's still the best choice for upgrade?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> So I want to upgrade the fans on my 920 since im hiting around 85C on the hottest core, the rest ar around 75-78C. I have my CPU now at 4.8GHz.
> 
> Are the AP-15's still the best choice for upgrade?


Ap's are excellent - but you probably won't gain MUCH performance difference from new fans.
You might be looking at under 5c difference, at full load - and that's skeptical.

I think most of us at the club recognize this:
The stock fans are good for cooling but are LOUD at higher RPMs


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Ap's are excellent - but you probably won't gain MUCH performance difference from new fans.
> You might be looking at under 5c difference, at full load - and that's skeptical.
> 
> I think most of us at the club recognize this:
> The stock fans are good for cooling but are LOUD at higher RPMs


As long as I drop the temps a bit and there not as loud as the stock fans at near full throttle.

Because stock ones get pretty loud.

So am I gonna be happy with the AP-15's or there is a better fan?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> As long as I drop the temps a bit and there not as loud as the stock fans at near full throttle.
> 
> Because stock ones get pretty loud.
> 
> So am I gonna be happy with the AP-15's or there is a better fan?


well the only problem with them is that they are 3pin fans (if I'm not mistaken):
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-030-SY
So you have to bear that in mind. It won't work via the antec software, but will work via your motherboard.

Other fans are the Apaches - 4pin
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-057-AK

And the corsair SP120's - 3pin
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050008-WW-Performance-Edition-Pressure/dp/B007RESFYK


----------



## M3TAl

Besides not having PWM, AP-15's can't really be beat. I think some (or maybe all?) GT AP's can be modded to PWM.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1045524/gentle-typhoon-pwm-mod


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Besides not having PWM, AP-15's can't really be beat. I think some (or maybe all?) GT AP's can be modded to PWM.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1045524/gentle-typhoon-pwm-mod


Nice!

EDIT:
wait wait wait a minuteee:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-016-CS&groupid=701&catid=2331&subcat=4

Since when did the SP120's come in 4pin!?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Besides not having PWM, AP-15's can't really be beat. I think some (or maybe all?) GT AP's can be modded to PWM.
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1045524/gentle-typhoon-pwm-mod


Interesting im leaning with the AP-15 atm, but corsairs are tempting too.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> well the only problem with them is that they are 3pin fans (if I'm not mistaken):
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-030-SY
> So you have to bear that in mind. It won't work via the antec software, but will work via your motherboard.
> 
> Other fans are the Apaches - 4pin
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-057-AK
> 
> And the corsair SP120's - 3pin
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050008-WW-Performance-Edition-Pressure/dp/B007RESFYK


They will just run at full throttle if I connect them to the 920 pins or they can be controlled if I plug them into the mobo right? Never heard about the Apaches.

Corsairs looks good too, which one you prefer?

Corsair SP120 4pin or the Scythe AP-15 3pin. Decisions


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Interesting im leaning with the AP-15 atm, but corsairs are tempting too.
> They will just run at full throttle if I connect them to the 920 pins or they can be controlled if I plug them into the mobo right? Never heard about the Apaches.
> 
> Corsairs looks good too, which one you prefer?


----
When you plug them into the cooler they just run full throttle, mobo will control them just fine. I have two GT Ap-45. They are great and quiet even at full blast. What I did to have the cooler control them is buy two Sunbeamtech Rheosmart PCI Fan Controller
http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/pci.html


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Interesting im leaning with the AP-15 atm, but corsairs are tempting too.
> They will just run at full throttle if I connect them to the 920 pins or they can be controlled if I plug them into the mobo right? Never heard about the Apaches.
> 
> Corsairs looks good too, which one you prefer?
> 
> Corsair SP120 4pin or the Scythe AP-15 3pin. Decisions


If the SP120's are 4pin - I would go corsair.
But I HIGHLY doubt they are - even via the corsair website they say they are 3pin - and mine ARE 3pin.
I suspect (and I could be wrong) that OCUK got the description wrong. I sent them a tweet about it

If it is indeed 3pin - then i would lean towards the apaches

Added this to the OP - what would you guys add to the list?
*Fan section:*

Here are fans, in no particular order - that were recommended either by myself and/or club members.
_This is to replace the stock fans. Despite the stock fans doing an excellent job in cooling - they proved to be quite noisy in comparison to some of the aftermarket fans one could buy - remember the rad side for the fans is 120mm. I should also note that getting 3pin fans won't work with the antec software but WILL work with most motherboards. To be on the safe side - purchase a 4pin 120mm PWM fan_
All links to the fans will be linked to places you can purchase the fans in the UK (prices may vary and you might be able to find better prices elsewhere):
-Aerocool Shark
-Scythe Gentle Typhoon
-Akasa AK-FN058 Apache
-Corsair Quiet Edition
-Corsair High Performance Edition - In my humble opinion the HP edition is a bit over powered versus the SP versions. One doesn't simply need that speed with these fans


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> ----
> When you plug them into the cooler they just run full throttle, mobo will control them just fine. I have two GT Ap-45. They are great and quiet even at full blast. What I did to have the cooler control them is buy two Sunbeamtech Rheosmart PCI Fan Controller
> http://www.sunbeamtech.com/PRODUCTS/Rheosmart/pci.html


How good is the mobo for controlling the CPU temp? I can customize it right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> well the only problem with them is that they are 3pin fans (if I'm not mistaken):
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-030-SY
> So you have to bear that in mind. It won't work via the antec software, but will work via your motherboard.
> 
> Other fans are the Apaches - 4pin
> http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-057-AK
> 
> And the corsair SP120's - 3pin
> http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CO-9050008-WW-Performance-Edition-Pressure/dp/B007RESFYK


There is definitely a 4-pin version. Now at the equivalent 1,850rpm is the corsair quieter then the AP-15?

Which one will drop the temps the most?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-Air-Series-SP120-CO-9050014-WW-120mm-PWM-High-Performance-Edition-High-/380729425569?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item58a53dfea1


----------



## M3TAl

You should spend a good hour+ over at Martin's Liquid Lab looking at all the amazing things there









http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> How good is the mobo for controlling the CPU temp? I can customize it right?
> There is definitely a 4-pin version. Now at the equivalent 1,850rpm is the corsair quieter then the AP-15?
> 
> Which one will drop the temps the most?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-Air-Series-SP120-CO-9050014-WW-120mm-PWM-High-Performance-Edition-High-/380729425569?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item58a53dfea1


Well the HP 120's aren't really needed - bit OP if you ask me.
I would opt for the Sp120's - that's just me personally.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You should spend a good hour+ over at Martin's Liquid Lab looking at all the amazing things there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


agreed - great source for info!


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> How good is the mobo for controlling the CPU temp? I can customize it right?
> There is definitely a 4-pin version. Now at the equivalent 1,850rpm is the corsair quieter then the AP-15?
> 
> Which one will drop the temps the most?
> 
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Corsair-Air-Series-SP120-CO-9050014-WW-120mm-PWM-High-Performance-Edition-High-/380729425569?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item58a53dfea1


The mobo is pretty good at controlling fans. Now depending on your motherboard you will have different number of fan jacks on your mother board. You should have one CPU fan jack and some number of other ones, they can be 3-pin or 4-pin. Now someone correct me if I'm wrong, but some motherboards dont go off the CPU temp with the other jacks?(I don't like using motherboard fan jacks so I pay little attention to how what is controlled). As for customization it all depends on the motherboard on how much you can customize your fan speeds, but stock setting usually does you justice. Some motherboards even come with software that allow you to control your fans from windows. I have an msi M-Power Z77 and you can set profiles for you fans with Control Center.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You should spend a good hour+ over at Martin's Liquid Lab looking at all the amazing things there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


Thats how I decided on my Ap-45s


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You should spend a good hour+ over at Martin's Liquid Lab looking at all the amazing things there
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://martinsliquidlab.org/2013/05/07/fan-testing-round-12/


Great that sold me on the AP-15's and if I can find a 45 i'll get it.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> The mobo is pretty good at controlling fans. Now depending on your motherboard you will have different number of fan jacks on your mother board. You should have one CPU fan jack and some number of other ones, they can be 3-pin or 4-pin. Now someone correct me if I'm wrong, but some motherboards dont go off the CPU temp with the other jacks?(I don't like using motherboard fan jacks so I pay little attention to how what is controlled). As for customization it all depends on the motherboard on how much you can customize your fan speeds, but stock setting usually does you justice. Some motherboards even come with software that allow you to control your fans from windows. I have an msi M-Power Z77 and you can set profiles for you fans with Control Center.
> Thats how I decided on my Ap-45s


AP it is but I cant find the 45's.

I looked up and my ASRock Z77 Extreme6 mobo has 2 CPU jacks so its perfect to put the fans in there. I could control those two on my BIOS. But I got one used for the pump pin on the Kuhler 920.
No worries if I move the pump pin to PWR FAN pin or a CHA_FAN on the mobo right? Then I just put the 2 AP-15's or 45's to CPU1 and CPU2 headers on my mobo; and put the pump pin on a chasis fan pin or power fan.

Here is a pic


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Great that sold me on the AP-15's and if I can find a 45 i'll get it.
> AP it is but I cant find the 45's.
> 
> I looked up and my ASRock Z77 Extreme6 mobo has 2 CPU jacks so its perfect to put the fans in there. I could control those two on my BIOS. But I got one used for the pump pin on the Kuhler 920.
> No worries if I move the pump pin to PWR FAN pin or a CHA_FAN on the mobo right? Then I just put the 2 AP-15's or 45's to CPU1 and CPU2 headers on my mobo; and put the pump pin on a chasis fan pin or power fan.


You got a nice mobo







and yes you can definitely do that. The pump just needs power so any motherboard jack will work for it. As for Ap-45s frozencpu.com is the only one who had them a year ago when I was buying them. Now it looks like they have sold out. I would check out ebay if you want to buy a set.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B6AP-00-AP-00-2150-RPM-AP-15-AP-45-120mm-Fan-AP-45-/251324244634?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item3a8417a29a
Seems like these are the only ones I'm able to find in the couple mins I spend searching.


----------



## M3TAl

Jab-tech has AP-15 but no AP-45


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> You got a nice mobo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> and yes you can definitely do that. The pump just needs power so any motherboard jack will work for it. As for Ap-45s frozencpu.com is the only one who had them a year ago when I was buying them. Now it looks like they have sold out. I would check out ebay if you want to buy a set.
> http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scythe-Gentle-Typhoon-D1225C12B6AP-00-AP-00-2150-RPM-AP-15-AP-45-120mm-Fan-AP-45-/251324244634?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item3a8417a29a
> Seems like these are the only ones I'm able to find in the couple mins I spend searching.


Thanks! Repped, and the others that helped me out.

Hmmm their in OEM packaging, I wonder if the extra $10 would be worth it compared to these AP-15's I found.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scythe-D1225C12B5AP-15-Gentle-Typhoon-120MM-Fan-1850rpm-/310389030988?pt=US_Computer_Case_Fans&hash=item4844a0c04c


----------



## DjBodya

If I remember it right frozencpu had to special order the AP-45s due them not being available in US and I think its like Japan only or something. There was a youtube petition going on from frozencpu to see how many people were interested in buying before they ordered them.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> If I remember it right frozencpu had to special order the AP-45s due them not being available in US and I think its like Japan only or something. There was a youtube petition going on from frozencpu to see how many people were interested in buying before they ordered them.


Well I pulled the trigger on a pair of AP-15's. I am thinking of making the rad an intake, I will only have the Top 200mm fan as exhaust though. I have two front fans and one small 100mm fan as intake and top 200mm and the 120mm's from the rad as exhaust.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Well I pulled the trigger on a pair of AP-15's. I am thinking of making the rad an intake, I will only have the Top 200mm fan as exhaust though. I have two front fans and one small 100mm fan as intake and top 200mm and the 120mm's from the rad as exhaust.


The Ap-15 are very good, everyone loves them. I just went with Ap-45 cuz I had the chance.
Actually got a 230mm fan on the top that's an exhaust and that's how I have my set up too. You might get a bit of a noise increase if you set up for the fans to intake the air from the outside. I had a whining noise going on actually when I did that, with the Ap-45s. My case has a honeycomb type fan grills and that actually is what created it. I cut the grill off







. So just a heads up if you experience it yourself.


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> The Ap-15 are very good, everyone loves them. I just went with Ap-45 cuz I had the chance.
> Actually got a 230mm fan on the top that's an exhaust and that's how I have my set up too. You might get a bit of a noise increase if you set up for the fans to intake the air from the outside. I had a whining noise going on actually when I did that, with the Ap-45s. My case has a honeycomb type fan grills and that actually is what created it. I cut the grill off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . So just a heads up if you experience it yourself.


Did it lower your temps vs exhaust? I do have a grill on the back of my case. Thanks for the heads up lol.


----------



## M3TAl

You should expect something like 3-4C or more if the inside of your case gets really toasty. For my case the internal case temp is usually around 32C while the ambient of the room is around 27C. Do you want to put air that's 32C through the rad or 27C?


----------



## c0ld

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You should expect something like 3-4C or more if the inside of your case gets really toasty. For my case the internal case temp is usually around 32C while the ambient of the room is around 27C. Do you want to put air that's 32C through the rad or 27C?


Hmmm I think I'll do intake since teh CPU is getting hotter than my video card.


----------



## Destrto

On the subject of which fans to use to replace the stock. I use Yate Loon High Speeds on both of my 620's. I have them modded to run off of the Gpu's fan pin so they can be controlled by MSI Afterburner. Works like a charm for me, and they are dead silent up to about 80% speed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> On the subject of which fans to use to replace the stock. I use Yate Loon High Speeds on both of my 620's. I have them modded to run off of the Gpu's fan pin so they can be controlled by MSI Afterburner. Works like a charm for me, and they are dead silent up to about 80% speed.


http://www.xoxide.com/yate-loon-highspeed-120.html

these?
They look like case fans to me with no static pressue reasings.

Also the DBA seems crazy high


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> http://www.xoxide.com/yate-loon-highspeed-120.html
> 
> these?
> They look like case fans to me with no static pressue reasings.
> 
> Also the DBA seems crazy high


I bought the ones from Performance-Pcs. There was a test that showed ones from different sites performed differently.

They might be simple case fans, but they perform very well. Better than the stock fans that came with the Antec's.

I've never been big on reading specs given for fans, what they're claimed to be meant for. I try fans in so many different settings to see for myself.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *c0ld*
> 
> Did it lower your temps vs exhaust? I do have a grill on the back of my case. Thanks for the heads up lol.


Like metal said it depends on your internal temp, but i got like a 2C difference.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> On the subject of which fans to use to replace the stock. I use Yate Loon High Speeds on both of my 620's. I have them modded to run off of the Gpu's fan pin so they can be controlled by MSI Afterburner. Works like a charm for me, and they are dead silent up to about 80% speed.


I actually got two of them myself, the 2250 rpm. For 4 bucks they are great SET of fans. They are just at the borderline of the sound I let my PC make from fans.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'll add them to the OP then!


----------



## Destrto

Yea I was impressed for the price. I have them plugged into my 500R's fan controller and on slow. They push plenty air on low.


----------



## M3TAl

Any idea how easy/hard it is to remove the fan from the shroud? Just in case I want to paint some great fans for a great price.


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Any idea how easy/hard it is to remove the fan from the shroud? Just in case I want to paint some great fans for a great price.


With the Yate Loon slims, they are not removeable as far as I could tell. I'm not sure about the regular width ones. But the cheapo ones I tried, weren't too difficult to take off. You'd just have to be careful not to apply too much paint.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Any idea how easy/hard it is to remove the fan from the shroud? Just in case I want to paint some great fans for a great price.


Why not just leave them assembled and tape off the rest?


----------



## M3TAl

Removing the fan blades makes things 100x easier to paint and safer too. Don't want paint getting in the motor. The Cougar Vortex fans literally just pop off, no washers to remove or anything.

Already painted 8 Cougar Vortexes white. Got two fans left but kind of ran out of paint.


----------



## Maximization

stupid question is any one else observing a lower efficiency with the 920 after almost a year of use? i seem to be seeing more temp warnings and thermal events lately with same settings that never reflected this issue before? i assume there is a natural loss of fluid over time. no dust or loosing brackets that i can tell by inspection.


----------



## M3TAl

My 620 has definitely lost some fluid over the past two years, not sure if/how that has affected performance though.


----------



## Maximization

yeah , my chip might be running hotter too because of degradation, no way to measure that one though.


----------



## Papa Kev

Hi, Does any one know where I can get straight 1\4" ID barb to replace the original ones that come in the Antec 620 & 920. Or change the ID from 1\4 to 3\8 in the same fashion. I want to change the orientation on the intake's from the stock 90 degree to straight. The new barb would have to fit into the housing the same as the original does. I got 3) gpu's I am going attempt to water cool with 1)620 & 2)920's. Thanks, all the help I can get is most appreciated


----------



## blaze2210

The Kuhler 650 and 1250 are available on Newegg:

Kuhler 1250: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209080

Kuhler 650: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209078


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The Kuhler 650 and 1250 are available on Newegg:
> 
> Kuhler 1250: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209080
> 
> Kuhler 650: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835209078


Nice to see them listed - not sure if they are supposed to be listed on YouTube though (looking at the title lol







)


----------



## Maximization

wow, we are all out of date now, good run though these years


----------



## M3TAl

Price is competitive. The NZXT and Corsairs just happen to be on sale at the moment. MSRP vs. MSRP looks good though.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Price is competitive. The NZXT and Corsairs just happen to be on sale at the moment. MSRP vs. MSRP looks good though.


I'm loosing my nerve with Corsair lately......


----------



## M3TAl

How come?


----------



## kyton

So what is the best way to mount the 620 rad, hose pipes top, bottom or side. I have mine on top at present an are in-front of the top exhaust fan.

If i put it on the bottom they sit close to the GPU.


----------



## Maximization

i always try to keep reservior above pump level


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> How come?


Been having problems with corsair link, one of the parts seems to have bricked on me and now the part is on EOL status..... So I got a $70 or something papaer weight in my PC. Then after that the H100i went AWOL on me for a couple of days.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kyton*
> 
> So what is the best way to mount the 620 rad, hose pipes top, bottom or side. I have mine on top at present an are in-front of the top exhaust fan.
> 
> If i put it on the bottom they sit close to the GPU.


Well the rule of thumb is to have ur pipes at the bottom of the rad. It should reduce air bubbles.


----------



## M3TAl

Isn't Corsair supposed to have really good customer service? Are they taking care of it for you?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Then after that the H100i went AWOL on me for a couple of days.


I'm not understanding this part - it went missing on you?









EDIT: Did you present Corsair with the issue? I had a couple of issues with my H100i, so I made an account on their site, submitted a ticket, and got a reply within an hour. A few messages were exchanged between me and the rep until the issue was more or less solved.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'm not understanding this part - it went missing on you?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: Did you present Corsair with the issue? I had a couple of issues with my H100i, so I made an account on their site, submitted a ticket, and got a reply within an hour. A few messages were exchanged between me and the rep until the issue was more or less solved.


Well The pump just stopped appearing in Corsair Link software and wouldn't adjust the fans according to temperature. Then like 3-4 days later it just magically appeared back up and everything works fine..... I didn't have the time to contact Corsair about it, was a bit busy and pissed off about my node unit bricking.
I haven't bothered contacting Corsair about the node yet as I didnt see any good news about it on the forums


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Well The pump just stopped appearing in Corsair Link software and wouldn't adjust the fans according to temperature. Then like 3-4 days later it just magically appeared back up and everything works fine..... I didn't have the time to contact Corsair about it, was a bit busy and pissed off about my node unit bricking.
> I haven't bothered contacting Corsair about the node yet as I didnt see any good news about it on the forums


It really only takes as much time as making a post in here - you just create a ticket, and make sure that you provide a detailed description of the issue, and they'll reply to it. It's really very easy.

On a side note: Did you happen to try updating the firmware for your unit? I'm not sure what version you're currently using, but there might be a newer version that solved that issue.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> It really only takes as much time as making a post in here - you just create a ticket, and make sure that you provide a detailed description of the issue, and they'll reply to it. It's really very easy.
> 
> On a side note: Did you happen to try updating the firmware for your unit? I'm not sure what version you're currently using, but there might be a newer version that solved that issue.


There's actually 1 guys that handles all the Corsair Link related questions on the forums. The issue with the pump solved itself somehow lol


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> There's actually 1 guys that handles all the Corsair Link related questions on the forums. The issue with the pump solved itself somehow lol


I wasn't talking about the forum, I was talking about submitting a problem ticket to Corsair. If the issue solved itself, then you're good to go!









EDIT: Back to the Antec discussion: Anyone pick up one of the 650/1250's yet?


----------



## kd5151

My local Best Buy has the Antec 620 for $40. I think it's a close out. The real question is how to I hook up the pump and fan to the motherboard. I've read that on closed loop coolers that the pump needs to run at 100%. If I plug the one header into my CPU fan header it's starting voltage is like 87% on my motherboard? And I need to plug something into the cpu fan header in order for my pc to boot right?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kd5151*
> 
> My local Best Buy has the Antec 620 for $40. I think it's a close out. The real question is how to I hook up the pump and fan to the motherboard. I've read that on closed loop coolers that the pump needs to run at 100%. If I plug the one header into my CPU fan header it's starting voltage is like 87% on my motherboard? And I need to plug something into the cpu fan header in order for my pc to boot right?


Pump gets plugged into the motherboard
Fans can be directly plugged into your CPU fan header on your motherboard.

Really simple and there should be more than enough power from your motherboard - so that's nothing to worry about.
Fan header wise to boot -> yes usually. but a CPU FAN HEADER warning might show - and you can disable that warning via your bios.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Pump gets plugged into the motherboard
> Fans can be directly plugged into your CPU fan header on your motherboard.
> 
> Really simple and there should be more than enough power from your motherboard - so that's nothing to worry about.
> Fan header wise to boot -> yes usually. but a CPU FAN HEADER warning might show - and you can disable that warning via your bios.


A fan just needs to be plugged into the CPU fan header port - it doesn't matter what fan.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> A fan just needs to be plugged into the CPU fan header port - it doesn't matter what fan.


Indeed but with the antec 920 (I know not in question) some motherboards (my noobtooth z77) came up with a CPU warning. The bios/motherboard couldn't recognise the fan splitter being plugged in from the antec unit.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Indeed but with the antec 920 (I know not in question) some motherboards (my noobtooth z77) came up with a CPU warning. The bios/motherboard couldn't recognise the fan splitter being plugged in from the antec unit.


What I'm saying is that it doesn't need to be a CPU-related fan that gets plugged in there - it just needs to be A fan....









For example, you could plug your case's rear exhaust fan into the CPU fan header in order to bypass the error.


----------



## BroHamBone

Ah hah! Overclock has everything!

Anyway, I been racking my brain with my 920!

The setup:
Raven rv02
Sabertooth x79
Antec 920

The situation: Where can u mount the cooler?

-If I mount a push/pull setup at the top, the I/O fan is covered.

-If I mount a fan outside the case and one inside with the rad, the top of the case does not fit.

Currently I have the setup laying on top of the most rear 180mm fan.

I was either thinking about:

-Finding a duct to direct the air to the top

-Modify the case top

-Or use only push or pull.

I bought two thin 120mm fans, but they do not provide enough umph to keep a decent temp/noise even though the stock 920s are jet engines.

Any ideas?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> Ah hah! Overclock has everything!
> 
> Anyway, I been racking my brain with my 920!
> 
> The setup:
> Raven rv02
> Sabertooth x79
> Antec 920
> 
> The situation: Where can u mount the cooler?
> 
> -If I mount a push/pull setup at the top, the I/O fan is covered.
> 
> -If I mount a fan outside the case and one inside with the rad, the top of the case does not fit.
> 
> Currently I have the setup laying on top of the most rear 180mm fan.
> 
> I was either thinking about:
> 
> -Finding a duct to direct the air to the top
> 
> -Modify the case top
> 
> -Or use only push or pull.
> 
> I bought two thin 120mm fans, but they do not provide enough umph to keep a decent temp/noise even though the stock 920s are jet engines.
> 
> Any ideas?


That case looks very small - from google pics.
I would be inclined to put it at the top - why do you need an i/o fan?

I would do intake from the bottom - outtake via your antec920 - not ideal, as pulling air fromt he OUTSIDE is better for cooler temps. But with your case - I think that would be asking too much from your case:
ie. putting outakes at the bottom, pulling air down the case, despite hot air rising - meaning in the middle, you might have warm air by your GPU.

Long story short:
3x intake from the bottom - 1x outtake at the top via the antec 920

That's what I would do if I had your case


----------



## BroHamBone

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That case looks very small - from google pics.
> I would be inclined to put it at the top - why do you need an i/o fan?
> 
> I would do intake from the bottom - outtake via your antec920 - not ideal, as pulling air fromt he OUTSIDE is better for cooler temps. But with your case - I think that would be asking too much from your case:
> ie. putting outakes at the bottom, pulling air down the case, despite hot air rising - meaning in the middle, you might have warm air by your GPU.
> 
> Long story short:
> 3x intake from the bottom - 1x outtake at the top via the antec 920
> 
> That's what I would do if I had your case


I take it you are not familiar with the case...








Its extremely long!

Here is a pic of the I/O fan on my sabertooth x79 as well as inside the RV02
http://s861.photobucket.com/user/Br...0-4cda-bf21-a8633eb52948_zps5be42a00.jpg.html

As far as the case being small, I guess the pics dont do it justice..
212mm (W) x 503mm (H) x 643mm (D) or simply put, x3 180m fans line the bottom of the case with wiggle room in the back for PSU cables and WC


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> I take it you are not familiar with the case...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Its extremely long!
> 
> Here is a pic of the I/O fan on my sabertooth x79 as well as inside the RV02
> As far as the case being small, I guess the pics dont do it justice..
> 212mm (W) x 503mm (H) x 643mm (D) or simply put, x3 180m fans line the bottom of the case with wiggle room in the back for PSU cables and WC


yeah no idea about the case - just googled pics that's it.
Looked long on pics but compact at the same time.

That mini fan, on my sabertooth did absolutely nothing for temps + was loud and whining all the time - up to you, but I don't think you have much choice, unless you mod it.


----------



## Tartooth

I need some help guys, really confused here

STOCK i7 3770k running currently at 47-51C when IDLE

When I put her through prime 95 she doesn't even make it past the warming up stage before it hits 100C and I turn it off.
Took prime95 2 minutes to get it there

I'm really baffled, the pump is working (1500rpm) the fan is replaced with a corsair 120 HP and I'm just bashing my head against the wall

reapplied thermal several times

*** IS HAPPENING - I'M STOCK SPEEDS


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> I need some help guys, really confused here
> 
> STOCK i7 3770k running currently at 47-51C when IDLE
> 
> When I put her through prime 95 she doesn't even make it past the warming up stage before it hits 100C and I turn it off.
> Took prime95 2 minutes to get it there
> 
> I'm really baffled, the pump is working (1500rpm) the fan is replaced with a corsair 120 HP and I'm just bashing my head against the wall
> 
> reapplied thermal several times
> 
> *** IS HAPPENING - I'M STOCK SPEEDS


1500rpm isn't normal - that's HALF the speed it should be operating at.
Make sure you have enough CURRENT/VOLTAGE for your pump.
Should be running at 3000


----------



## Tartooth

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 1500rpm isn't normal - that's HALF the speed it should be operating at.
> Make sure you have enough CURRENT/VOLTAGE for your pump.
> Should be running at 3000


Ok your gonna have to give me some more help with that then

the pump is on it's own fan header running at 100%

How can I make sure it's operating at 110%?

EDIT

I checked speedfan which gave me some funny readings
Temp 1 : -128c
Temp 3 : 23c
Temp 4 : 0C

Then
Fan 1 - 2200 RPM
Fan 2 - 1548 RPM
Fan 3 - 0 RPM


----------



## Tartooth

Ok new problems
Idling at 1600mhz and I'm reaching 80c

I'm so confused, *** is going on? I never had problems until it over heated one day and ever since


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> Ok your gonna have to give me some more help with that then
> 
> the pump is on it's own fan header running at 100%
> 
> How can I make sure it's operating at 110%?
> 
> EDIT
> 
> I checked speedfan which gave me some funny readings
> Temp 1 : -128c
> Temp 3 : 23c
> Temp 4 : 0C
> 
> Then
> Fan 1 - 2200 RPM
> Fan 2 - 1548 RPM
> Fan 3 - 0 RPM


Get a molex(standard 4 pin connector) to 3 pin fan adaptor cable and plug the pump into that. Then you can be sure it is running at 100%. They also make some that have a RPM readout cable attached as well. So you go molex to adaptor, Plug fan into the adapter, then plug the 1 wired lead that has another plug on it to your motherboard so you can see the speed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> Ok new problems
> Idling at 1600mhz and I'm reaching 80c
> 
> I'm so confused, *** is going on? I never had problems until it over heated one day and ever since


something isn't running properly - please watch my installation guide in the OP. Go to 35mins in the video.
You'll be able to see that the PUMP RPM is at 3000 - constantly.
FAN RPM is something else, that can go from 600-2500RPM

From the looks of it - your pump is either:
-Not powered enough -> make sure you got the USB + fan headers plugged in properly.
-Not plugged in and/or not working


----------



## Stuntfly02

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> Ok new problems
> Idling at 1600mhz and I'm reaching 80c
> 
> I'm so confused, *** is going on? I never had problems until it over heated one day and ever since


You either did not properly apply the thermal paste OR you have a serious issue with your cooler. I do not know a TON about these Antec units but they are very similar to the early corsair ones. If you only have a single 120mm version that isn't really a lot and it is possible the coolant is reaching the point where it just cant wick away any more heat from the CPU. if its a 240mm radiator then I don't know what to tell you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Stuntfly02*
> 
> You either did not properly apply the thermal paste OR you have a serious issue with your cooler. I do not know a TON about these Antec units but they are very similar to the early corsair ones. If you only have a single 120mm version that isn't really a lot and it is possible the coolant is reaching the point where it just cant wick away any more heat from the CPU. if its a 240mm radiator then I don't know what to tell you.


at idle he shouldn't be hitting 80c at idle with or without 2 fans.
Sounds to me, in all honesty, like his pump is not working AT ALL or it isn't getting enough power.


----------



## Tartooth

Update
thanks for the speedy replies

i think the barring in the pump is slipping out of place. I hooked it up to an external 12 voly supply and ran it without the pc on (on my phone currently)

it worked for one minute then stopped pushing hot water out. Its making a medium grinding noise like a electric toothbrush

i think its toast


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> Update
> thanks for the speedy replies
> 
> i think the barring in the pump is slipping out of place. I hooked it up to an external 12 voly supply and ran it without the pc on (on my phone currently)
> 
> it worked for one minute then stopped pushing hot water out. Its making a medium grinding noise like a electric toothbrush
> 
> i think its toast


yup RMA / return that


----------



## M3TAl

Unfortunate








. Hopefully Antec will take care of it for you. 620 & 920 still going strong here!


----------



## Tartooth

I think my CPU is damaged because of this bull****

hit over 100 temps a few times and now my pc freezes after 2 minutes despite temps with the stock fan

hasn't gone under 40 yet with the stock fan on MAX rpm

took me 7 tries to post this because of the computer freezing


----------



## Tartooth

What the hell am I supposed to do now?

Is there a way to test to see if damage has been done?

if this watercooler ended up letting my 400$ processor get damaged i'm going to throw a furry of death


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> What the hell am I supposed to do now?
> 
> Is there a way to test to see if damage has been done?
> 
> if this watercooler ended up letting my 400$ processor get damaged i'm going to throw a furry of death[/quote
> ]Prime 95 for it. My I ask, was your CPU overclocked?


----------



## Tartooth

I still haven't been able to push through a prime95 so I have no idea how to properly use the software. The only times I've run it, it would skyrocket to 95-105 and i'd shut it down

running now with the stock fan on it, sitting at 93C at 75% of the heating phase

(Doing it through real temp)

I don't understand why my system suddenly started freezing after 2 minutes when I switched coolers though. Temps are better?


----------



## BWAS1000

did you clean off the CPU and reapply thermal paste? mounting it bad can mess up temps bad, and I mean REAL bad.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> I still haven't been able to push through a prime95 so I have no idea how to properly use the software. The only times I've run it, it would skyrocket to 95-105 and i'd shut it down
> 
> running now with the stock fan on it, sitting at 93C at 75% of the heating phase
> 
> (Doing it through real temp)
> 
> I don't understand why my system suddenly started freezing after 2 minutes when I switched coolers though. Temps are better?


PC will shut down when it reaches its thermal limit - stop pushing your PC on a broken cooler.


----------



## Tartooth

Like I said

I'm back on the stock cooler, just ran a game of SC2 and never went over 70.

Seriously everyone thanks for your help and guidance on such short notice. Great community here, simply amazing.

I concluded that the pump was working... when it wanted to.

The most i could ever feel the heat get to was the end of the first tube and *pfthfht* nothing. I'm guessing from the sound when I ran it without the PC on that the pump broke somehow and stopped pushing as much water as it was supposed to. I only ever hit a RPM of 1500 and even then it was making a funny noise.

Thanks again everyone, let's hope antec's support is worth it


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Tartooth*
> 
> Like I said
> 
> I'm back on the stock cooler, just ran a game of SC2 and never went over 70.
> 
> Seriously everyone thanks for your help and guidance on such short notice. Great community here, simply amazing.
> 
> I concluded that the pump was working... when it wanted to.
> 
> The most i could ever feel the heat get to was the end of the first tube and *pfthfht* nothing. I'm guessing from the sound when I ran it without the PC on that the pump broke somehow and stopped pushing as much water as it was supposed to. I only ever hit a RPM of 1500 and even then it was making a funny noise.
> 
> Thanks again everyone, let's hope antec's support is worth it


I got a lot of help for deciding on boards for my 9800GT SLI setup and good CPU coolers. Just returning the favour. Good luck dude.

Sent from my BLU Magic using Tapatalk 2


----------



## Totally Dubbed

So...I'm just going to be mean and leave this here








*Yes the brand new and never seen Antec 1250 - here's to a world first







*


----------



## BroHamBone

Old school PC speaker looking fans!

Wait wat? Single Loop from the rad going to the back of each fan? Powered by its own water pressure in loop! Hybrid Hydroelectric CPU cooling!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> Old school PC speaker looking fans!
> 
> Wait wat? Single Loop from the rad going to the back of each fan? Powered by its own water pressure in loop! Hybrid Hydroelectric CPU cooling!


there are two pumps


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> So...I'm just going to be mean and leave this here
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *Yes the brand new and never seen Antec 1250 - here's to a world first
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> *


So how are you liking it so far?


----------



## M3TAl

You lucky dog! How are the temps?


----------



## unknown601

I hated winter until I started overclocking 10c room temperature makes a big difference.


----------



## unknown601

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BroHamBone*
> 
> Old school PC speaker looking fans!
> 
> Wait wat? Single Loop from the rad going to the back of each fan? Powered by its own water
> pressure in loop! Hybrid Hydroelectric CPU cooling!


Really so the water runs the fans?
that must be a very fasting flowing water system


----------



## Maximization

so ...impressions!!!!!!


----------



## M3TAl

No the fans run the pumps. So the fans technically move the water.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Impressions are good, little on the loud side when on extreme, cooling seems good, installation is improved but still very hard!
Software is a big improvement. More impressions, temps and everything Will come tomorrow


----------



## M3TAl

Looking forward to it


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> I hated winter until I started overclocking 10c room temperature makes a big difference.


Haha, 10*C room temp is the best, i wait winter to see how much +10*C room tempterature effect my 6990+6970 CFX temps








Winter is the best, and old house


----------



## Totally Dubbed

So the results so far are solid, but I think I can do better.
Due to the installation process which was a little hard, I feel the thermal paste (pre-applied one) got smugged quite a bit (almost like re-application each time I was trying to get the screw in the right place).
Basing off this review:
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/reviews/1278/pg7/corsair-h100-liquid-cpu-cooler-vs-h80-and-antec-920-review-maximum-overclock.html

I can see the H100 out-performing the Antec 920 (which I have) by around 5c - with a considerably high OC.

In my case:
Here is what I observed - I did 5Gflops of IBT on each test:

920: 79c was its hottest core (this is with the SP120 quiet fans
1250: 70c with EXTREME mode selected and 75c with SILENT mode selected

As it stands, I would say that's a 4-5c improvement over my 920 - which is in line with the performance shown by the H100 over the 920.
However, I feel I can do better - so I'll be doing more tests and be removing the cooler and seeing if I can get a better thermal paste application on there and a better overall installation.

The provided software is a huge improvement and excellent.
I especially like how the RGB light can be adjusted with the liquid temps - meaning you can go from white to red on your Antec LED colour, simply off your liquid temps (it doe sit automatically)

I don't want anyone jumping to conclusions - that's why I'm going to do a variety of tests before writing and publishing my review.
An unboxing + installation guide will be published on YouTube soon - I'll also create a new OCN members club about it












*Unboxing video below:*





EDIT:
Some reviews I found online!
http://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/henry-butt/antec-kuhler-h2o-1250-cpu-cooler-review/6
http://www.tweak.dk/review/Antec_K%C3%BChler_H2O_1250_vandkoeling/1761/3/1

Can be bought for £95:
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-012-AN

EDIT2:
More pictures - with a re-sitting. I decided to apply my own MX-2 paste - which coincidently I've now run out of, thus having to order some more. I ordered some MX-4 to come in









And yes the tubes are long enough to have it so that in my Fractal R4 - you can have it from the front.
The extra splitter I discovered during my unboxing is for you to have a pull/push config.
If I can get rid of my HDD back at the bottom, I'll do so and try and push/pull with some SP120's on the rad.
(I had trouble removing my bay as the screw was super tight and wouldn't come out, meaning it was rounding the srew, thus I need to find another screwdriver to get rid of my HDD bay in my case)






EDIT3:
Applied MX-2 - pea sized dot - no change in temps (which I'm a bit disappointed about - as I was hoping for lower temps.


I'm going to now do a push/pull config with my SP120's on the outside of the R4 case









EDIT4:
Went for the stock antec fans as they were 4pin PWM and they can ramp to 2.5k unlike my SP120s.
Getting ready for take-off













Sir we have oscar mike on Antec 1250












FINAL EDIT:
Thread posted:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1442697/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-650-950-1250-owners-club-impressions-thread


----------



## DjBodya

What I wanna know is how is that Plastic Bracket? Because I always must remount my cooler about 2-4 times in order to see if I have that perfect mount.


----------



## M3TAl

The case compatibility really scares me... as far as top mounting goes. The rad looks 25mm thick (maybe it's 30mm?) from eyeballing it but those pumps coming out of the fans seems like they jut out really far. Seems like those pumps might potentially have problems blocking/hitting ram slots or 8 pin CPU power connectors in a lot of cases.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> What I wanna know is how is that Plastic Bracket? Because I always must remount my cooler about 2-4 times in order to see if I have that perfect mount.


It's actually super sturdy and flexes a little.
Much better than the one we're used to by far.
Not only is the bracket a little thicker - but it's also just feels stronger.
That said, the nuts still do round the bracket if you over tighten.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The case compatibility really scares me... as far as top mounting goes. The rad looks 25mm thick (maybe it's 30mm?) from eyeballing it but those pumps coming out of the fans seems like they jut out really far. Seems like those pumps might potentially have problems blocking/hitting ram slots or 8 pin CPU power connectors in a lot of cases.


Indeed - you really need a big case.
My R4 is quite a big case - a lot of people don't have this type of case - and due to the way its made it means that, as you pointed out, that it can interfere with motherboards OR RAM.
Luckily it JUST squeezes under my Vengeance RAM.

Here was my measurements:
280mm (length) x 90mm (rad to end of fan)
Rad is 25mm


----------



## M3TAl

At least for the CM 690 II it wouldn't be a problem *IF* the rad could be removed from the fans. This is because the 690 II can take 25-30mm fans or rads in between the top mesh and top panel. But that doesn't seem possible with all the tubing going from the fans/pumps/rads.

Bottom mount should still be possible if the tubing is as long as the 620/920. The tubing is just barely long enough to bottom mount in a 690 II.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey guys!
So Antec updated me with this very cool news:

"Our Engineers have already started on revising the 1250, they already have a v2.0 in the works. All I can say is that the changed the fan configuration, redesign the pump and fan motor, will be including 8 long screws, fans can now be removable, fan has more fins and the fans are not an open air design, the new fans actually have some rails on the fan blade."

Fingers crossed - let's see


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey guys!
> So Antec updated me with this very cool news:
> 
> "Our Engineers have already started on revising the 1250, they already have a v2.0 in the works. All I can say is that the changed the fan configuration, redesign the pump and fan motor, will be including 8 long screws, fans can now be removable, fan has more fins and the fans are not an open air design, the new fans actually have some rails on the fan blade."
> 
> Fingers crossed - let's see


Nice!! Now I'm even more happy that I decided to hold off on swapping out my H100i!







This thing sucks! (referring to the H100i







)


----------



## M3TAl

Well dang. Those all sound like good improvements. Open air fans typically have very poor static pressure so performance should increase just from that alone. Or at least better temps at lower fan speeds.


----------



## CptDanko

Antec 620 v1 was good. My pump died on it and ever since then I have had to RMA FIVE TIMES. Because the new v4s they are sending me all have "bowed" waterblocks. Pieces of junk.

Ill be getting an eisberg 120l soon which has a german waterblock and pump and is hands down one of the beset AIOs out right now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That's unfortunate


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's unfortunate


Yes and Asetek makes them for Antec as well as corsair. I will never be purchasing anything Asetek ever again


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Yes and Asetek makes them for Antec as well as corsair. I will never be purchasing anything Asetek ever again


Lucky the new coolers from Antec aren't made by anyone, but themselves








The new Antec line are built in-house. That's why they're already looking at changing some design features of the 1250 - as they are much more flexible now


----------



## DjBodya

Going off topic







.
So tigerdirect is selling MSI Geforce 770 GTX N770 TF 2GD5/OC for $299 after coupon and rebates and free shipping. Now the question comes should I buy this for myself to replace my EVGA GTX 670 FTW OC Edition or get it for my bros new rig I'll be building. He'll end up with my 670.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Going off topic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> So tigerdirect is selling MSI Geforce 770 GTX N770 TF 2GD5/OC for $299 after coupon and rebates and free shipping. Now the question comes should I buy this for myself to replace my EVGA GTX 670 FTW OC Edition or get it for my bros new rig I'll be building. He'll end up with my 670.


that's a very good price for such a great card.
I got my GTX680 for £215 which is $350 - worth every single penny (bear in mind UK prices are higher than USA - usually it would be around £250-260 at the time of my purchase)

As for if you should get it - depends on your brother really.
Will he be gaming, using it at ALL?
If he won't be and you're just trying to make an excuse to buy yourself a new card - I wouldn't buy it.
The 770 over the 670 will give you something like 10-15% increase in FPS.
Which is another thing you should ask yourself - do you need that extra FPS? Don't get me wrong - it's great, but do you really utilise it?

Say if you're playing BF4 on ultra - then sure.
But if you are playing games like Batman, you'll never see the need or want for that extra FPS. Especially if you're on a 60hz monitor.
So when it comes down to it - in my personal case. My next upgrade will be a:
120hz IPS 5ms G2G 23" monitor (doesn't exists atm)
rather than a new GPU.
(that said I upgraded from the 660ti to the 680 a few months ago, after only having the 660ti for just under a year)


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that's a very good price for such a great card.
> I got my GTX680 for £215 which is $350 - worth every single penny (bear in mind UK prices are higher than USA - usually it would be around £250-260 at the time of my purchase)
> 
> As for if you should get it - depends on your brother really.
> Will he be gaming, using it at ALL?
> If he won't be and you're just trying to make an excuse to buy yourself a new card - I wouldn't buy it.
> The 770 over the 670 will give you something like 10-15% increase in FPS.
> Which is another thing you should ask yourself - do you need that extra FPS? Don't get me wrong - it's great, but do you really utilise it?
> 
> Say if you're playing BF4 on ultra - then sure.
> But if you are playing games like Batman, you'll never see the need or want for that extra FPS. Especially if you're on a 60hz monitor.
> So when it comes down to it - in my personal case. My next upgrade will be a:
> 120hz IPS 5ms G2G 23" monitor (doesn't exists atm)
> rather than a new GPU.
> (that said I upgraded from the 660ti to the 680 a few months ago, after only having the 660ti for just under a year)


WOW where did you get a deal like that on a 680? My 670 cost that much after rebates.
Yea he'll be gaming the main reason for his new rig is Rome II Total War. I think I'll get the card and figure out what to do with it later, after some testing haven't had the chance to get my hands on the 7xx


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> WOW where did you get a deal like that on a 680? My 670 cost that much after rebates.
> Yea he'll be gaming the main reason for his new rig is Rome II Total War. I think I'll get the card and figure out what to do with it later, after some testing haven't had the chance to get my hands on the 7xx


true!
I got mine from OCUK on a one day only deal








Prices of the 770 have gone to £250 and so have the 680s.

There's almost no difference between the 680 and 770.

In other news: Have you considered AMD's offerings?
Like the 290X and so on?
The coolers are super noisy, but put a AIO cooler on it, and you'll be a winner - especially with mantle around the corner.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> true!
> I got mine from OCUK on a one day only deal
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Prices of the 770 have gone to £250 and so have the 680s.
> 
> There's almost no difference between the 680 and 770.
> 
> In other news: Have you considered AMD's offerings?
> Like the 290X and so on?
> The coolers are super noisy, but put a AIO cooler on it, and you'll be a winner - especially with mantle around the corner.


My 670 was a one day deal on tigerdirect haha. Yea the 770 is just like the 680. That's why I was a bit disappointed in the 7xx line and with the next I7s. Hmm I wonder for how much is micro center is selling the 4770k, I know I got ly 3770k for like $240 and ppl hated me for that XD
I dunno but for some reason I don't like AMD stuff.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> My 670 was a one day deal on tigerdirect haha. Yea the 770 is just like the 680. That's why I was a bit disappointed in the 7xx line and with the next I7s. Hmm I wonder for how much is micro center is selling the 4770k, I know I got ly 3770k for like $240 and ppl hated me for that XD
> I dunno but for some reason I don't like AMD stuff.


what's the point in the 4770k? that's even more of a waste of money - haswell give you less than 5-10% of a performance boost + you'll have to change MOBO.
If it's for your new build - that's a different story and I would SUGGEST haswell over IB for your bothers build (as price wise they are very similar so might as well take the better performing one)


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> what's the point in the 4770k? that's even more of a waste of money - haswell give you less than 5-10% of a performance boost + you'll have to change MOBO.
> If it's for your new build - that's a different story and I would SUGGEST haswell over IB for your bothers build (as price wise they are very similar so might as well take the better performing one)


Oh no I'm sticking with my 3770k, hell it hasn't been a year yet since I build it. I was thinking for the new build cuz apparently tigerdirect has two Z87 mobos on sale for $100 each. One is Asus Z87-K and the other is a Gigabyte GA-Z87-D3HP Z87, It's like 30 or 40 bucks of each. Checked Micro center and they have an insotre deal on the 4770k, $279.99. I think my bro needs to cough up some doe if he wants to save a bunch of cash.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Oh no I'm sticking with my 3770k, hell it hasn't been a year yet since I build it. I was thinking for the new build cuz apparently tigerdirect has two Z87 mobos on sale for $100 each. One is Asus Z87-K and the other is a Gigabyte GA-Z87-D3HP Z87, It's like 30 or 40 bucks of each. Checked Micro center and they have an insotre deal on the 4770k, $279.99. I think my bro needs to cough up some doe if he wants to save a bunch of cash.


agreed on that!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

So I finished up with my Antec 1250 and put it aside and put my Antec 920 back in.
I put the stock fans and applied my new MX-4 paste (I used to have MX-2) - I'm quite shocked to see such high temps with my CPU being de-lidded.
Either something has changed in my room temps since I last checked or IBT tests have become even more "hotter" on the CPU. Could also be down to my de-lid affecting it, but nothing has changed in that respect.

Max temp at silent: 83c
Max temp at extreme: 75c





As a reference:
My max temps with my SP120's (using the bios/motherboard to sort out the ramp) was 79-80c with MX-2 paste
My tests with the Antec 1250:

-I ran 4 tests with my My Antec 1250:
1. 1250 on push configuration ONLY on SILENT mode: Max temp was 75c
2. 1250 on push configuration ONLY on EXTREME mode: Max temp was 70c
3. 1250 on push/pull configuration (using the Antec 920's 4-pin PWM fans as pull) on SILENT mode: Max temp was 72c
4. 1250 on push configuration (using the Antec 920's 4-pin PWM fans as pull) on EXTREME mode: Max temp was 68c

Based on that, between the two coolers, with stock coolers:
*-8c difference on silent modes with the 1250 on PUSH ONLY
-11c difference on silent modes both on push/pull
-5c difference on extreme modes with the 1250 on PUSH ONLY
-7c difference on extreme modes both on push/pull*

That's impressive if you ask me.

EDIT:
Antec 920 + SP120's on push/pull: max temp was 75c.
I'm complely surprised.
Antec920 + SP120 (which is super silent on full load) = Antec920 + stock fans on EXRTEME:


----------



## blaze2210

I'd be more than happy to give your 1250 a new home!














It can replace my mediocre H100i....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'd be more than happy to give your 1250 a new home!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It can replace my mediocre H100i....


I would happily post out the Antec 1250 to anyone, but you're in the USA and I'm in the UK.
I think I might have uncovered a problem with it though - so I'm forwarding my thoughts and certain things I think that need improving over to Antec.
They're loving the honest feedback I'm giving them - it helps us as consumers to get better products and helps them deliver better products and get a bigger market share off their competitors, like Corsair.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would happily post out the Antec 1250 to anyone, but you're in the USA and I'm in the UK.
> I think I might have uncovered a problem with it though - so I'm forwarding my thoughts and certain things I think that need improving over to Antec.
> They're loving the honest feedback I'm giving them - it helps us as consumers to get better products and helps them deliver better products and get a bigger market share off their competitors, like Corsair.


Crap! I forgot that we're in different countries....I guess I'll just have to get one of my own then....







Did Antec give you a possible ETA on the 1250 version 2?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Crap! I forgot that we're in different countries....I guess I'll just have to get one of my own then....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Did Antec give you a possible ETA on the 1250 version 2?


No ETA- but it definitely is in the works as we speak - they have a prototype already (got sent pictures)
It looks exactly the same but works differently (due to the fans being able to be changed).
The fans are also supposedly quieter - I'm drafting up an Excel sheet + video on the volumes of the Antec1250 & 920


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> No ETA- but it definitely is in the works as we speak - they have a prototype already (got sent pictures)
> It looks exactly the same but works differently (due to the fans being able to be changed).
> The fans are also supposedly quieter - I'm drafting up an Excel sheet + video on the volumes of the Antec1250 & 920


Sweet!! Looking forward to all of the new info....


----------



## M3TAl

Really intrigued by how the fans will be removable yet pumps still part of the fan?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Really intrigued by how the fans will be removable yet pumps still part of the fan?


I got super confused too - took me a while to get it.
Basically whereas before the pump was integrated within the fan - it's not just positioned a little above the fan, meaning you can get rid of the fan.
I'm still a little lost on it - but I'll wait for them to get back to me when the V2 is finished and finalised, before stating or suggesting or misleading any sort of information









In other news - I did some sound tests: They aren't professional, due to me having to use an app on my phone, thus don't take the readings as final - but the variances are correct, at least from my ear:



EDIT:
Although my variances between the 920 with stock fans on extreme vs silent are pretty bang on:
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Antec-Kuhler-H2O-920-CPU-Cooler-Review/1314/6

By that I mean in the review I found online there's around 20db difference - this also applies to my results above.

Video proof:




EDIT:
Here is my thermal comparison:


----------



## DjBodya

Nice SOUND test, not as quiet as I thought.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Nice SOUND test, not as quiet as I thought.


thanks mate


----------



## M3TAl

The Db might be more for the 1250 but the tone/Hz/sound whatever you want to call it sounded much worse for the 920 stock fans. In the video it sounds really high pitched and almost reminds me of a vacuum cleaner.









The 1250 had a much more pleasant tone. No high pitch whine/squeal. Or maybe it was the fault of the camera's mic and it didn't sound like that in person?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The Db might be more for the 1250 but the tone/Hz/sound whatever you want to call it sounded much worse for the 920 stock fans. In the video it sounds really high pitched and almost reminds me of a vacuum cleaner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The 1250 had a much more pleasant tone. No high pitch whine/squeal. Or maybe it was the fault of the camera's mic and it didn't sound like that in person?


nop you're right about that, but how to describe it:
Antec920: Jet engine (small yet super effective)
Antec1250: Huge Boat engine lol


----------



## M3TAl

I'll take the boat!


----------



## Maximization

interesting results TD


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Glad you guys like the info presented


----------



## DjBodya

'Tis very useful!
Now if I could only find a Z87 mobo with wifi built in it that would be nice too....


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nop you're right about that, but how to describe it:
> Antec920: Jet engine (small yet super effective)
> Antec1250: Huge Boat engine lol


Antec 1250=Antonov


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Antec 1250=Antonov


that's the ticket








Big, noisy, powerful and double the engines of any other "cooler" out there


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey guys!
Antec is running a contest - happy days! Check it out








https://www.facebook.com/AntecInc?v=app_174489652597378&app_data=gaReferrerOverride%3Dhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.facebook.com%252F


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Lucky the new coolers from Antec aren't made by anyone, but themselves
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The new Antec line are built in-house. That's why they're already looking at changing some design features of the 1250 - as they are much more flexible now


Well consider I had to RMA antecs new line FIVE times, I think asetek did a better job then.......

What are the odds on getting 4 bowed waterblocks? Obviously they are doing something wrong


----------



## M3TAl

Many blocks are bowed... I still can't believe you don't realize this. Many CPU IHS's are convex. Also those ones you RMA'ed are Asetek made.

I guess I can't enter that contest since I don't have a FB. Already spotted 4 different things in the pic









EDIT: and found another difference, I love these kind of things







Think that makes 5 now.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Well consider I had to RMA antecs new line FIVE times, I think asetek did a better job then.......
> 
> What are the odds on getting 4 bowed waterblocks? Obviously they are doing something wrong


Antecs OLD line, which were made by Asetek, NOT ANTEC.
New line = the ones that literally got released a few days ago -> made by antec.

Sorry you had troubles, yet again, but please stop repeating it, utterly pointless and useless to this club.
*You are the ONLY PERSON to have RMA'ed it 5x - I can guarantee that.*
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Many blocks are bowed... I still can't believe you don't realize this. Many CPU IHS's are convex. Also those ones you RMA'ed are Asetek made.
> 
> I guess I can't enter that contest since I don't have a FB. Already spotted 4 different things in the pic
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: and found another difference, I love these kind of things
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Think that makes 5 now.


haha yeah myself and AntecUSA had so much fun trying to spot them - we found 4, but one of them was telling us there was definitely 5 there.
We didn't see it until we got some hints


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Well consider I had to RMA antecs new line FIVE times, I think asetek did a better job then.......
> 
> What are the odds on getting 4 bowed waterblocks? Obviously they are doing something wrong


I feel like we've been through this before - Can you take a pic of the bowed surface? Continually bashing a product without showing a shred of proof is pretty counter-productive....And I don't think there has even been enough time for you to have purchased one of the new CLC's (650/1250, not 620/920), realized there was a defect, then requested an RAM, wait for shipping to Antec, then wait for shipping from Antec....Then do that 5 times all in the span of the week - or possibly 2 weeks - that these new CLC's have been on the market and available to the public....

Come on now, be realistic....


----------



## M3TAl

Only thing I can think of is his CPU's IHS is abnormally concave. How do you fix this? Well you cant on the CPU without lapping which will void warranty.

Guess what you can lap the 620/920 without voiding the warranty. That would take maybe 30min to 2 hours depending on grades of sandpaper used... How long has 5 RMA's taken to get in an attempt to get a "flat" copper base? These things are not flat by design.

My EK VGA Supremacy block isn't perfectly flat, it's a little convex. Perfectly normal...


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I feel like we've been through this before - Can you take a pic of the bowed surface? Continually bashing a product without showing a shred of proof is pretty counter-productive....And I don't think there has even been enough time for you to have purchased one of the new CLC's (650/1250, not 620/920), realized there was a defect, then requested an RAM, wait for shipping to Antec, then wait for shipping from Antec....Then do that 5 times all in the span of the week - or possibly 2 weeks - that these new CLC's have been on the market and available to the public....
> 
> Come on now, be realistic....


Want to be realistic? Do you honestly think that you will see how they are bowed with a pic? You need a razor blade or credit card to view this.

As far as me proving this to you gimme a break, I don't need to prove anything to you, what do you work for antec?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Want to be realistic? Do you honestly think that you will see how they are bowed with a pic? You need a razor blade or credit card to view this.
> 
> As far as me proving this to you gimme a break, I don't need to prove anything to you, what do you work for antec?


We would be able to see it if you took a pic of the credit card/razor blade on the cooling plate. I don't work for Antec, but I'm against senselessly bashing a product because of some unproven claim.

As for taking a pic of the surface of the cooling plate: it's very possible, as this pic proves....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> We would be able to see it if you took a pic of the credit card/razor blade on the cooling plate. I don't work for Antec, but I'm against senselessly bashing a product because of some unproven claim.
> 
> As for taking a pic of the surface of the cooling plate: it's very possible, as this pic proves....


this.
My cooler itself + IHS have a slight curvature too. It's just how it is with a LOT of IHS' let alone cooler plates.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> We would be able to see it if you took a pic of the credit card/razor blade on the cooling plate. I don't work for Antec, but I'm against senselessly bashing a product because of some unproven claim.
> 
> As for taking a pic of the surface of the cooling plate: it's very possible, as this pic proves....


Im not gonna waste my time taking pics. The fact that I had to RMA five times should be your proof.
Now shush before I block you


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Im not gonna waste my time taking pics. The fact that I had to RMA five times should be your proof.
> Now shush before I block you


then please don't waste your time constantly bashing the product, when you don't have time to share pictures about your supposedly "5x RMA'ed product"
When I bashed Asus, for their horrible service - I made videos and posted many pictures about my experience with them.
Furthermore, even Antec, I wasn't at all pleased with the thermal paste that was pre-applied on my Antec920 - with that said, I'm still happy with their product and use it every day.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Im not gonna waste my time taking pics. The fact that I had to RMA five times should be your proof.
> Now shush before I block you


Nonsensical ravings do not serve as proof anywhere....Go ahead and block me - hopefully it will prevent me from seeing your delusional posts. As I've seen before, you don't want solutions or advice, you just want to bash a product due to your lack of understanding of one of the normal traits of a CPU cooler.

By the way, I have a T-Rex living in my backyard. I don't need to supply pics or anything else to prove it, the fact that I "said" it should be proof enough.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Im not gonna waste my time taking pics. The fact that I had to RMA five times should be your proof.
> Now shush before I block you


You're RMA'ing for something that is normal and as expected... Makes no sense. Want it flat (which it's not designed to be) then lap it.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> then please don't waste your time constantly bashing the product, when you don't have time to share pictures about your supposedly "5x RMA'ed product"
> When I bashed Asus, for their horrible service - I made videos and posted many pictures about my experience with them.
> Furthermore, even Antec, I wasn't at all pleased with the thermal paste that was pre-applied on my Antec920 - with that said, I'm still happy with their product and use it every day.


Im done with this thread.
Blocking you

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Nonsensical ravings do not serve as proof anywhere....Go ahead and block me - hopefully it will prevent me from seeing your delusional posts. As I've seen before, you don't want solutions or advice, you just want to bash a product due to your lack of understanding of one of the normal traits of a CPU cooler.
> 
> By the way, I have a T-Rex living in my backyard. I don't need to supply pics or anything else to prove it, the fact that I "said" it should be proof enough.


Blocking you
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You're RMA'ing for something that is normal and as expected... Makes no sense. Want it flat (which it's not designed to be) then lap it.


Lapping should only be done for further decrease in temps. A product like the 620 should be flat out of the box even if it doesn't have a mirror finish.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^LOL


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> then please don't waste your time constantly bashing the product, when you don't have time to share pictures about your supposedly "5x RMA'ed product"
> When I bashed Asus, for their horrible service - I made videos and posted many pictures about my experience with them.
> Furthermore, even Antec, I wasn't at all pleased with the thermal paste that was pre-applied on my Antec920 - with that said, I'm still happy with their product and use it every day.
> 
> 
> 
> Im done with this thread.
> Blocking you
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Nonsensical ravings do not serve as proof anywhere....Go ahead and block me - hopefully it will prevent me from seeing your delusional posts. As I've seen before, you don't want solutions or advice, you just want to bash a product due to your lack of understanding of one of the normal traits of a CPU cooler.
> 
> By the way, I have a T-Rex living in my backyard. I don't need to supply pics or anything else to prove it, the fact that I "said" it should be proof enough.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Blocking you
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You're RMA'ing for something that is normal and as expected... Makes no sense. Want it flat (which it's not designed to be) then lap it.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Lapping should only be done for further decrease in temps. A product like the 620 should be flat out of the box even if it doesn't have a mirror finish.
Click to expand...

Anyway, I wanted a 620 but due to me having the budget of a newborn I had to save 10 bucks(need a new psu) and buy corsairs H55. Sigh.... next build I guess.

Sent from my BLU Magic using Tapatalk 2


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> then please don't waste your time constantly bashing the product, when you don't have time to share pictures about your supposedly "5x RMA'ed product"
> When I bashed Asus, for their horrible service - I made videos and posted many pictures about my experience with them.
> Furthermore, even Antec, I wasn't at all pleased with the thermal paste that was pre-applied on my Antec920 - with that said, I'm still happy with their product and use it every day.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Nonsensical ravings do not serve as proof anywhere....Go ahead and block me - hopefully it will prevent me from seeing your delusional posts. As I've seen before, you don't want solutions or advice, you just want to bash a product due to your lack of understanding of one of the normal traits of a CPU cooler.
> 
> By the way, I have a T-Rex living in my backyard. I don't need to supply pics or anything else to prove it, the fact that I "said" it should be proof enough.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> You're RMA'ing for something that is normal and as expected... Makes no sense. Want it flat (which it's not designed to be) then lap it.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> (Removed) Anyway, I wanted a 620 but due to me having the budget of a newborn I had to save 10 bucks(need a new psu) and buy corsairs H55. Sigh.... next build I guess.
> 
> Sent from my BLU Magic using Tapatalk 2


Reported for insults
Also blocking you


----------



## M3TAl

Except it's not supposed to be flat... Look at these IHS... Some are concave and some are even convex. A flat plate would make horrible contact with a concave IHS. Most surfaces of most coolers are convex.

I can't reiterate this enough. Why you don't understand , guess I'll never know. A flat plate is bad, bad, bad. Flat plate + concave IHS = bad temperatures.


Spoiler: Warning: CPU LAPPING!













Well what do we have here? A convex plate on a cooler. As it should be.



And what do we have here? From our very own club.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ConradTP*
> 
> When I look at the TIM when i remove the pump, seems the middle of the CPU is the only point of contact.
> Mine needs some lapping too IMO as the base looks like this.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Im done with this thread.
> Blocking you
> Blocking you
> Lapping should only be done for further decrease in temps. A product like the 620 should be flat out of the box even if it doesn't have a mirror finish.


You apparently misunderstand the point of lapping. The main point is to make both surfaces flat - which in turn, causes a reduction in temps....


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Except it's not supposed to be flat... Look at these IHS... Some are concave and some are even convex. A flat plate would make horrible contact with a concave IHS. Most surfaces of most coolers are convex.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: CPU LAPPING!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well what do we have here? A convex plate on a cooler. As it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> And what do we have here? From our very own club.


1)Your posting an air cooler which is irrelevant to this topic.
2)As far them not being flat, yes your claiming that all sufaces are not flat. Which is why my first 620 was indeed flat and the eisberg I purchased is flat right out of the box. Come again?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Anyway, I wanted a 620 but due to me having the budget of a newborn I had to save 10 bucks(need a new psu) and buy corsairs H55. Sigh.... next build I guess.
> 
> Sent from my BLU Magic using Tapatalk 2


always is a next time bro!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Reported for insults
> Also blocking you


Please do not post in this thread any longer - you clearly aren't an owner, but are coming up as a troll.
Any more of these useless posts in this thread WILL BE reported to a moderator - simple as.
So don't post any more, take the "5 RMAs" on the chin, for something they never needed RMA'ing for -> even in the OP, I have quotes from antec saying you could lap the antec's and not void warranty.

Have a good day








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> The free time is strong with this one.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my BLU Magic using Tapatalk 2


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Except it's not supposed to be flat... Look at these IHS... Some are concave and some are even convex. A flat plate would make horrible contact with a concave IHS. Most surfaces of most coolers are convex.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: CPU LAPPING!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Well what do we have here? A convex plate on a cooler. As it should be.
> 
> 
> 
> And what do we have here? From our very own club.


nice pics man!


----------



## M3TAl

Most likely they're still convex, just less so. Air cooler or cpu block doesn't matter. They all have a surface made to contact an IHS.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Most likely they're still convex, just less so. Air cooler or cpu block doesn't matter. They all have a surface made to contact an IHS.


Those of you claiming all surfaces are not flat should really go work for a HSF company, tell them to add in instruction booklet "please lap surface to make flat since we were inadequate of doing so" im sure your product will sell like hotcakes.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Those of you claiming all surfaces are not flat should really go work for a HSF company, tell them to add in instruction booklet "please lap surface to make flat since we were inadequate of doing so" im sure your product will sell like hotcakes.


They don't need to be perfectly flat in order to function - which is a portion of the reason why TIM is used between the CPU and the cooling solution. Take a pic to demonstrate what you're talking about, or please drop it.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Most likely they're still convex, just less so. Air cooler or cpu block doesn't matter. They all have a surface made to contact an IHS.
> 
> 
> 
> Those of you claiming all surfaces are not flat should really go work for a HSF company, tell them to add in instruction booklet "please lap surface to make flat since we were inadequate of doing so" im sure your product will sell like hotcakes.
Click to expand...

Go take a nap.

Sent from my BLU Magic using Tapatalk 2


----------



## M3TAl

Most copper CPU blocks are lapped but they're lapped for the mirror finish, just because it looks nice and I guess it reduces the microscopic valleys. Even after lapping most blocks will be convex, again by design. Companies like EK, XSPC, Swiftech, etc have their blocks lapped. Mmmmm shiny.

So we should tell a HSF company what to do... Well instead of telling a company what to do instead I asked a company (Swiftech) what they actually do. I asked Bryan from Swiftech about the matter, here's what he had to say:
Quote:


> Being that it was Gabe who pioneered the convex surface of CPU copper heat sinks and water blocks, I can confirm that this is the optimal design for the surface of such devices. This design was arrived at by Gabe's own testing and it has been proven to be the best design for achieving optimal contact between the IHS and the copper block.
> 
> Being that when you install a CPU, particularly an Intel CPU, the tension created by the mounting mechanism will cause the surface of the IHS to bow. This is why having a convex shaped copper block is so beneficial to the performance of the cooling apparatus.
> 
> I hope this resolves your dispute.
> 
> Regards,
> BramSLI1
> 
> [email protected]


If after all this you don't want to believe these surfaces should be somewhat convex then I give up. Also you will have fun with even more RMA's in the future when you continue to receive surfaces from different companies that are convex.

Edit: Interesting to note, I never knew Gabe Rouchon (CEO, Swiftech) was the pioneer of the convex surface for coolers.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Most copper CPU blocks are lapped but they're lapped for the mirror finish, just because it looks nice and I guess it reduces the microscopic valleys. Even after lapping most blocks will be convex, again by design. Companies like EK, XSPC, Swiftech, etc have their blocks lapped. Mmmmm shiny.
> 
> So we should tell a HSF company what to do... Well instead of telling a company what to do instead I asked a company (Swiftech) what they actually do. I asked Bryan from Swiftech about the matter, here's what he had to say:
> If after all this you don't want to believe these surfaces should be somewhat convex then I give up. Also you will have fun with even more RMA's in the future when you continue to receive surfaces from different companies that are convex.
> 
> Edit: Interesting to note, I never knew Gabe Rouchon (CEO, Swiftech) was the pioneer of the convex surface for coolers.


I have never seen a bowed CPU surface. In any case hes talking intel.

But if it makes you happy the eisberg series are perfectly flat.









In any case whats your point? That a waterblock should be bowed to match the bowed intel? What if they are bowed differently? Would it still be providing optimal contact?


----------



## alancsalt

The point is that that is the reality. You probably have seen a convex CPU surface and not even realized.

Whatever you might expect, the surface of a CPU is not always flat, and as I understand it, is more likely to be a little convex. Some heatsink manufacturers compensate by making their heatsink surface slightly concave.

Usually this gets discussed in reviews and owners forums so users know what to expect. Generally the contact made is considered "good enough". Any difference is presumably taken up by TIM. Some people are fussier than others with regard to making their cpu to heatsink surfaces a perfect match by lapping them, and some accept that nothing is totally perfect, but merely made to "manufacturers tolerances" and leave it at that.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> I have never seen a bowed CPU surface. In any case hes talking intel.
> 
> But if it makes you happy the eisberg series are perfectly flat.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> In any case whats your point? That a waterblock should be bowed to match the bowed intel? What if they are bowed differently? Would it still be providing optimal contact?


AMD's are convex or concave as well. Whether it's convex or concave is merely luck of the draw just like OC'ing in the silicon lottery.

The point is flat is bad for a CPU block unless the CPU is flat as well. That's why some people lap CPU's and coolers, maximum contact between surfaces.



And the stock 8350 cooler:


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> AMD's are convex or concave as well. Whether it's convex or concave is merely luck of the draw just like OC'ing in the silicon lottery.
> 
> The point is flat is bad for a CPU block unless the CPU is flat as well. That's why some people lap CPU's and coolers, maximum contact between surfaces.
> 
> 
> 
> And the stock 8350 cooler:


Hate to burst your bubble but I tested my 8350 for flatness, and its completely flat. THE HSF on the other hand is a tiny bit concaved. But it works well, when I remove it I notice TIM paste is spread evenly and throughout the HSF.


----------



## DjBodya

I love ignorant people, well only when its funny


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Hate to burst your bubble but I tested my 8350 for flatness, and its completely flat. THE HSF on the other hand is a tiny bit concaved. But it works well, when I remove it I notice TIM paste is spread evenly and throughout the HSF.


Yet still no pics....Oh, that's right - you can't take a pic of it....Even though there are several pics in here now proving otherwise....


----------



## spikezone2004

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Hate to burst your bubble but I tested my 8350 for flatness, and its completely flat. THE HSF on the other hand is a tiny bit concaved. But it works well, when I remove it I notice TIM paste is spread evenly and throughout the HSF.


I just dont get what is so hard to pick up your phone or camera take a pic and click upload? its not hard. You are fighting a battle you have already lost. tons of pictures against your claim and yet you still dont post a pic to explain what you are saying.

If you cant manage to post a pic dont mention anything else about it. in other words I hate to burst YOUR bubble because you are making yourself look like a complete tool and you are digging your hole deeper the longer you go trying to defend yourself with no evidence.


----------



## M3TAl

If it is truly flat... then you won the flatness lottery. Congratulations. One in a sample of thousands.


----------



## Gereti

hmm, i see that CptDanko is butthurted from he's cooler, becose it wasn't perfect
Umm, interesting...

BTW, i shoud (should) get my 920 soon becose december is near, and my friend should buy he's comåuter part's soon (27/11 we should get back to school,)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> hmm, i see that CptDanko is butthurted from he's cooler, becose it wasn't perfect
> Umm, interesting...
> 
> BTW, i shoud (should) get my 920 soon becose december is near, and my friend should buy he's comåuter part's soon (27/11 we should get back to school,)


might be worth getting the 950v2 instead brother








I can't confirm when it will be out, but it's looking promising


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> might be worth getting the 950v2 instead brother
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I can't confirm when it will be out, but it's looking promising


Hmm, have to... think about that one my friend,

i was going to get 920+ 2 custom fan's but...


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I just dont get what is so hard to pick up your phone or camera take a pic and click upload? its not hard. You are fighting a battle you have already lost. tons of pictures against your claim and yet you still dont post a pic to explain what you are saying.
> 
> If you cant manage to post a pic dont mention anything else about it. in other words I hate to burst YOUR bubble because you are making yourself look like a complete tool and you are digging your hole deeper the longer you go trying to defend yourself with no evidence.


I could give two flying turds that you want pics posting proof.

I have seen it with my own eyes and Ill repeat myself I don't need to prove anything to you.

You think Im gonna open my case then get my cell phone just to take a picture to please you the the rest of the trolls?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> hmm, i see that CptDanko is butthurted from he's cooler, becose it wasn't perfect
> Umm, interesting...
> 
> BTW, i shoud (should) get my 920 soon becose december is near, and my friend should buy he's comåuter part's soon (27/11 we should get back to school,)


What butthurts me is that they assume im lying when I had to RMA five times. Obviously they are the ones that are butthurts cause I bashed their crappy cooler


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I just dont get what is so hard to pick up your phone or camera take a pic and click upload? its not hard. You are fighting a battle you have already lost. tons of pictures against your claim and yet you still dont post a pic to explain what you are saying.
> 
> If you cant manage to post a pic dont mention anything else about it. in other words I hate to burst YOUR bubble because you are making yourself look like a complete tool and you are digging your hole deeper the longer you go trying to defend yourself with no evidence.
> 
> 
> 
> I could give two flying turds that you want pics posting proof.
> 
> I have seen it with my own eyes and Ill repeat myself I don't need to prove anything to you.
> 
> You think Im gonna open my case then get my cell phone just to take a picture to please you the the rest of the trolls?
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> hmm, i see that CptDanko is butthurted from he's cooler, becose it wasn't perfect
> Umm, interesting...
> 
> BTW, i shoud (should) get my 920 soon becose december is near, and my friend should buy he's comåuter part's soon (27/11 we should get back to school,)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What butthurts me is that they assume im lying when I had to RMA five times. Obviously they are the ones that are butthurts cause I bashed their crappy cooler
Click to expand...

Find something else to do with your free time.

Sent from my BLU Magic using Tapatalk 2


----------



## M3TAl

What you still don't seem to understand is you RMA'ed something 5 times that was working 100% as intended.









I'm actually kind of amazed Antec even accepted 5 RMA's when there was nothing wrong with them.


----------



## CptDanko

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spikezone2004*
> 
> I just dont get what is so hard to pick up your phone or camera take a pic and click upload? its not hard. You are fighting a battle you have already lost. tons of pictures against your claim and yet you still dont post a pic to explain what you are saying.
> 
> If you cant manage to post a pic dont mention anything else about it. in other words I hate to burst YOUR bubble because you are making yourself look like a complete tool and you are digging your hole deeper the longer you go trying to defend yourself with no evidence.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> hmm, i see that CptDanko is butthurted from he's cooler, becose it wasn't perfect
> Umm, interesting...
> 
> BTW, i shoud (should) get my 920 soon becose december is near, and my friend should buy he's comåuter part's soon (27/11 we should get back to school,)


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What you still don't seem to understand is you RMA'ed something 5 times that was working 100% as intended.


Yes it was working so great that temps would sky rocket past 70 degrees and made me waste a whole tube of AS after repapplying a million times until I tested both block and CPU for flatness and realized the new 620s v4 are not like the v1 I originally had and gave me no issues.


----------



## M3TAl

So instead of spending 30 minutes to 2 hours hour lapping it, which doesn't void the warranty, you RMA'ed 5 times. Does not compute.


----------



## CptDanko

I have an eisberg now, no need to lap it unlike antec.

I did the credit card test, its flat, I see no gaps.

GGmmkay thx

Have a nice day. Im done with this thread, this is ridicoulous, now Ive heard it all after you claim that both CPUs and waterblocks/hsf all are concave to some point. Does not compute


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> Yes it was working so great that temps would sky rocket past 70 degrees and made me waste a whole tube of AS after repapplying a million times until I tested both block and CPU for flatness and realized the new 620s v4 are not like the v1 I originally had and gave me no issues.


you passed 70 degrees, lawdgesus!
I'm currently SITTING at 70c de-lidded, because I'm folding.
Or else I would go to 92c on my OC.

and you use AS5? haha, ok enough said.
See ya, please don't come back, ever again


----------



## M3TAl

To be fair AMD's temps work different from Intel. AMD doesn't have an actual sensor in each core but some kind of overall package sensor that's based on some formula/algorithm. Assuming he's talking about actual core/package temps then 70C is over the recommended amount which is 62C. Again that doesn't mean the actual cores are 62C when this reads 62C. The actual core temps are an unknown but can be assumed to be higher than this package reading. Not sure at what temp it throttles at but I think it's around 80C but the actual core temps are most likely over 90C at this point.

Even weirder is the fact that the formula/algorithm doesn't get accurate until round 30-40C. Right now my core/package temp is saying 15C yet my ambient is about 24C.

I never said ALL IHS or coolers are convex/concave. I said most are convex/concave and that it is indeed intended to be this way by design. I also provided proof upon proof.

We can lead you to water, we can't make you drink it. We can provide you with proof upon proof, we can't make you interpret, understand, and believe it.


----------



## Gereti

Interesting, 5 time's to warranty, my motherboard was twice on warranty becose melting, and i didn't get new one on second time (both melted, now i use that second, melted mobo and i can't save bios, overclock, or anything, it's like OEM mobo now... but worster...)

and everywhere is those *monday product's* where are broken, etc

and +70*C temps well... i think something other was wrong than antec 920

...maby pump got too low voltage's, or fan,s

everything can be possible, groveling can only be obtained at the time of injury


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What you still don't seem to understand is you RMA'ed something 5 times that was working 100% as intended.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm actually kind of amazed Antec even accepted 5 RMA's when there was nothing wrong with them.


That depends if he notified us from the start that he was getting the same issues. Usually, we check if the customer was having the same issues when he/she RMA'd with us the 2nd or 3rd time. We investigate what's causing this issues and sometimes we recreate by building a mock up system that's equivalent to the customer's components and if we can't find a solution, we usually provide the customer a prepaid shipping label so they can ship their components to us and we can test what's going on with their system.

@CptDanko sorry if you're getting the same results and issues, but what is your ticket ID number or RMA number so we can check. Also, you might have disliked our product but we've offered you our service 100% if we have RMA'd your unit 5 times.


----------



## M3TAl

Definitely can't knock Antec's customer service, that's for sure.

His "issue" seems to be a combination of things not typical by any means to the vast majority of enthusiasts using Kuhlers. The cold plate seems to not make proper contact with his CPU's IHS. Apparently this happened 5 times because according to him his IHS is perfectly flat and the cold plates are very convex.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *CptDanko*
> 
> I have an eisberg now, no need to lap it unlike antec.
> 
> I did the credit card test, its flat, I see no gaps.
> 
> GGmmkay thx
> 
> Have a nice day. Im done with this thread, this is ridicoulous, now Ive heard it all after you claim that both CPUs and waterblocks/hsf all are concave to some point. Does not compute


Then go somewhere else, no one is forcing you to be here....


----------



## pilgrum

Hello First post







. My personal experience with Antec's Customer service has been unbelievable. They overnighted me a fan cage because the one they sent was scratched just on my word alone. That along with quality is why I stick with their products. You should make a video of how your installing the unit and send it to them maybe it can help with the troubleshooting process. I did this with before and it helped them figure out some issues with the product they were selling.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilgrum*
> 
> Hello First post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My personal experience with Antec's Customer service has been unbelievable. They overnighted me a fan cage because the one they sent was scratched just on my word alone. That along with quality is why I stick with their products. You should make a video of how your installing the unit and send it to them maybe it can help with the troubleshooting process. I did this with before and it helped them figure out some issues with the product they were selling.


Nice!! What method did you use to contact Antec? I am going to need to contact them myself - no issue or anything like that, I just need to see about getting a new mounting kit. I seem to have misplaced some of the parts....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilgrum*
> 
> Hello First post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My personal experience with Antec's Customer service has been unbelievable. They overnighted me a fan cage because the one they sent was scratched just on my word alone. That along with quality is why I stick with their products. You should make a video of how your installing the unit and send it to them maybe it can help with the troubleshooting process. I did this with before and it helped them figure out some issues with the product they were selling.


Welcome to OCN and the club








(I hope this isn't an Antec employee tough)


----------



## pilgrum

I called the tech support its pacific time zone.







510-770-1200 or 1-800-222-6832
Time: Monday through Friday, 9:00am to 4:30pm. Since the financial crisis I have tried to select USA based companies as much as I can.
I also wanted to point out that water cooling systems do not last long with poor power sources (pump failure) you need to invest in the highest level (80+ gold-platinum efficiency) power supply before installing i recommend SeasonicUSA.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilgrum*
> 
> I called the tech support its pacific time zone.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 510-770-1200 or 1-800-222-6832
> Time: Monday through Friday, 9:00am to 4:30pm. Since the financial crisis I have tried to select USA based companies as much as I can.
> I also wanted to point out that water cooling systems do not last long with poor power sources (pump failure) you need to invest in the highest level (80+ gold-platinum efficiency) power supply before installing i recommend SeasonicUSA.


Sweet, thanks for the info!! I completely agree with you on the USA-based companies thing....Although I mainly don't want to be waiting ridiculous amounts of time for shipping....







I am currently running an 80+ Gold Certified PSU, but when I finally break down and build a custom liquid cooling loop, I think I'll make the jump to Platinum....


----------



## M3TAl

Well both my 620 and 920 have only ever run on an Antec 80+ (below bronze) PSU and a Rosewill Hive 80+ Bronze. Gold and higher PSU's are just too mcuh $$$ for me. I'm a poor fool


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *pilgrum*
> 
> Hello First post
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . My personal experience with Antec's Customer service has been unbelievable. They overnighted me a fan cage because the one they sent was scratched just on my word alone. That along with quality is why I stick with their products. You should make a video of how your installing the unit and send it to them maybe it can help with the troubleshooting process. I did this with before and it helped them figure out some issues with the product they were selling.


Ha ha I had to RMA my 230mm fan on Antec 1200 V3 case and they lost my shipping order after they made it XD. Called back again couple weeks later asking wats going on and was told it must have slipped through the cracks. Then they send it ti me right away got it two days later.
Oh and WELCOME


----------



## pilgrum

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Welcome to OCN and the club
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (I hope this isn't an Antec employee tough)


Ha no I have my own Computer Business.


----------



## Letmefly

Yo peeps, i own a H20 620 and was thinking of using these brackets http://www.overclock.net/t/1439434/gpu-cool-the-universal-bracket-now-for-sale-givaways-inside

to tame down the 95c beast of R9 290 series of card. Has anyone attempted mounting this type of water block onto this card and what temps do you get? + what VRM/MEM heatsinks kit would you recommend.

CHeers


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I don't think anyone here has got it on the 290 yet, but on other cards, people have done it.
I was thinking of adding the 650 to my gtx680, but undecided so far


----------



## Letmefly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I don't think anyone here has got it on the 290 yet, but on other cards, people have done it.
> I was thinking of adding the 650 to my gtx680, but undecided so far


I suppose you have to look at the overclocking potential if your warrenty has expired i say go for it.

Yeah it's a risk don't want to void the warrenty on something new, I have 2 h20 laying around me and are just calling out to be used, however i think it i will be a faff whacking on heatsinks and VRM which would certainly make the card unreturnable. What keeps bothering me is that i prob could get near or better cooling+performance using a h20 over a Arctic's Accelero Xtreme III but i am unsure. I have the gear to do it just not the balls to blow my load


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Letmefly*
> 
> I suppose you have to look at the overclocking potential if your warrenty has expired i say go for it.
> 
> Yeah it's a risk don't want to void the warrenty on something new, I have 2 h20 laying around me and are just calling out to be used, however i think it i will be a faff whacking on heatsinks and VRM which would certainly make the card unreturnable. What keeps bothering me is that i prob could get near or better cooling+performance using a h20 over a Arctic's Accelero Xtreme III but i am unsure. I have the gear to do it just not the balls to blow my load


Remember biosflash your 290 to 290X if you get that


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Letmefly*
> 
> Yo peeps, i own a H20 620 and was thinking of using these brackets http://www.overclock.net/t/1439434/gpu-cool-the-universal-bracket-now-for-sale-givaways-inside
> 
> to tame down the 95c beast of R9 290 series of card. Has anyone attempted mounting this type of water block onto this card and what temps do you get? + what VRM/MEM heatsinks kit would you recommend.
> 
> CHeers


The bracket should work just fine and it comes with a copper shim too. Richie is a really cool guy and he or one of the testers should be able to answer any of your questions.

As far as heatsinks for the VRM it's hard to say... I can tell you from experience the little Enzotech MOS-C1's won't work unless you use some kind of thermal glue. The VRM seems like the exact same (from what pictures show) as on my 7870 XT but the 290's just have more phases. They're really small and the MOS-C1's just don't stick to those mosfets at all.

I'm actually about to get an Eznotech MST-88 heatsink in this Tuesday. It's made for motherboard VRM but I'm going to attempt modding it to fit the 7870 XT. How far apart are the screw holes for the R9 290(x)'s VRM? If it's less than 88mm then modding the MST-88 might be possible.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I should update you guys that Antec has updated their 650 and 950's with the later revision and the shipments are now being fulfilled by the new removable fan design.
I should be receiving, hopefully soon the new ones







!
Looking forward in testing them!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I should update you guys that Antec has updated their 650 and 950's with the later revision and the shipments are now being fulfilled by the new removable fan design.
> I should be receiving, hopefully soon the new ones
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !
> Looking forward in testing them!


You mean 650 and 1250, right?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> You mean 650 and 1250, right?


nop 650 and 950.

Not new news on the 1250 yet.
But it is also being changed


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> nop 650 and 950.
> 
> Not new news on the 1250 yet.
> But it is also being changed


Ah, I see....I only knew about the 650 and 1250....So what's the difference between the 650 and 950? A thicker rad and inclusion of software?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Ah, I see....I only knew about the 650 and 1250....So what's the difference between the 650 and 950? A thicker rad and inclusion of software?


From my understanding - exactly that


----------



## M3TAl

So is the 650 still much like the 620 in that it has no software or fan control?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> So is the 650 still much like the 620 in that it has no software or fan control?


As far as I can understand yeah - but I'm not confirming that, nor sure of it.
So I'll wait to see what Antec say


----------



## M3TAl

I realize the 650 is the least expensive and lowest on the totem pole but it seems like it should still have software with fan control; really it should be necessary especially to compete with competitor's products in the same range. I guess the fact that it possibly doesn't convinces some to go for the 950 though.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I realize the 650 is the least expensive and lowest on the totem pole but it seems like it should still have software with fan control; really it should be necessary especially to compete with competitor's products in the same range. I guess the fact that it possibly doesn't convinces some to go for the 950 though.


The 620 didn't have fan control, and it runs fine. It seems to be for the people who just want to plug it in and forget about it.


----------



## DjBodya

Saw that the solution was revealed on the fb Antec spot the difference pic. Gotta say didn't see that lego piece on the dragon. Theres another difference imo tho. The dudes head behind the 230mm fan is different in the pics








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> The 620 didn't have fan control, and it runs fine. It seems to be for the people who just want to plug it in and forget about it.


I Must control everything in my PC!!! If only that dam Corsair link thing worked the way its suppose to...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> If only that dam Corsair link thing worked the way its suppose to...


I know exactly what you mean!! In my opinion, that software's only use is temperature monitoring, and controlling the color of the pump's logo - the fan curve is pretty much useless, since the temp it uses to adjust the speed is the temp of the liquid (instead of the CPU's temp)....Sorry, I guess if I felt the need to adjust the speed of my fans, then I could control them from there....

With the 620, I hooked it up, and saw nothing but "kuhl" (







) temps - Plug n' Play CLC.....


----------



## ammoune

Hello everyone, new member joined ur crew ! I just have some questions about the 920 , i have a MB LGA 1150 ( Asus Z87 gryphon), i just want to know if this kit will fit with my socket, because i couldnt find anywhere , i know it works on LGA 1155 and 1156 but i have no informations abt the 1150 , so i want to make sure before to buy it , and btw i got a NZXT Vulcan case, will this be alright inside it? Thanks .


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammoune*
> 
> Hello everyone, new member joined ur crew ! I just have some questions about the 920 , i have a MB LGA 1150 ( Asus Z87 gryphon), i just want to know if this kit will fit with my socket, because i couldnt find anywhere , i know it works on LGA 1155 and 1156 but i have no informations abt the 1150 , so i want to make sure before to buy it , and btw i got a NZXT Vulcan case, will this be alright inside it? Thanks .


hey man,

I'm not sure if it is compatible :/
I wanted to double check and checked the antec website:

*CPU Socket Compatibility:
- Intel LGA 1155 / 1156 / 1366 / 2011, AMD AM2 / AM3 / AM2+ / AM3+ sockets*

Source:
http://store.antec.com/Product/cooling-cpu_cooler/kuhler-h2o-920/0-761345-77086-6.aspx


----------



## oshu

1156, 1155 and 1150 has the same cpu dimensions.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *oshu*
> 
> 1156, 1155 and 1150 has the same cpu dimensions.


Then he can only try and/or look if someone else has done it.
Or he could contact antec.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammoune*
> 
> Hello everyone, new member joined ur crew ! I just have some questions about the 920 , i have a MB LGA 1150 ( Asus Z87 gryphon), i just want to know if this kit will fit with my socket, because i couldnt find anywhere , i know it works on LGA 1155 and 1156 but i have no informations abt the 1150 , so i want to make sure before to buy it , and btw i got a NZXT Vulcan case, will this be alright inside it? Thanks .


1150 uses the same bracket as 1155/56, so your fine.
The Antec website has info on the 920 and it states that 1150 works








http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=704370&pid=17&lan=us
It should fit in your back of the Vulcan case. The only thing I'm not sure about if your graphic card wont get in the way. If you could measure the distance from the bottom of your back fan to your graphic card I can give a pretty good idea if it will work.
There is a video on the youtube of a guy putting the 920 on the front, but once again I'm not sure if that wont get in the way of your graphic card if its long.


----------



## Gir

Hey guys, I want to put some anti kink coils on my 920 for aesthetic purposes. What size do I need?

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Anti-Kink-Coils-2in---White/dp/B0047WMRX0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1385514326&sr=8-2&keywords=primochill+coil+white

or

http://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-Anti-Kink-Coils-8in---White/dp/B0047WIWHA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1385514326&sr=8-4&keywords=primochill+coil+white

Thanks!


----------



## M3TAl

I'm not 100% sure what the outer diameter for the tubing is but I can tell you it's definitely smaller than 5/8".


----------



## ammoune

Hey everyone, thx for ur returns,

@Djbodya : in couple of hours ill post a new reply giving all details abt what i think im going to do so u can help and correct me, specially that im newbie lol

Envoyé depuis mon GT-N7100 avec Tapatalk

EDIT: Ok im back , just now i watched ur video DjBodya, its exactly waht im planning to do ! So i guess i will have no troubles doing it?
My GC length is 24 cm, anyways im going to list down my rig set up so like that you'll have all informations you need and also later i'll post a pic of my rig:

- MB: Asus Z87 Gryphon
- CPU: intel i5 4670k
- GPU: Msi gtx 660 ti power edition OC
- HDD: Toshiba DT01ACA100 1 To ( will add a ssd later)
- RAM: Kingston HyperX beast 4*2

I can't install the 920 on the back cuz it wont fit due to its dimension, its only 80/92 mm , so the front is my best option, in the begin i was afraid that 920 tubes wont be enough longer but after checking ( 33 cm for tubing right? anyone to confirm?) and also measuring the distance i will need in my case i noticed everything gonna be alright . Here a pic of my rig :

http://img1.imagilive.com/1113/242c.JPG

Well its a mess as you can see lol but ill manage those lose cables once i install the watercooling .
Here my plan for a max air flow :
-ill move my HDD to the upper empty spot to have more space (specially for 920 tubes)
1-install the 920 in the front 120 mm in push pull ( pushing air inside the case)
2-install a 200 mm fan in push ( pushing air inside the case)
3-install a 92 mm fan on the back in extraction
4-install 2 120mm fans on the top of the case ( already done) in extraction

So this is fine for a good airflow? Or should i change anything?

Anyways know guys that im a beginner ( my first rig i mounted ) so ur advices are welcome
Big thanks for everyone helped


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ammoune*
> 
> Hey everyone, thx for ur returns,
> 
> @Djbodya : in couple of hours ill post a new reply giving all details abt what i think im going to do so u can help and correct me, specially that im newbie lol
> 
> Envoyé depuis mon GT-N7100 avec Tapatalk
> 
> EDIT: Ok im back , just now i watched ur video DjBodya, its exactly waht im planning to do ! So i guess i will have no troubles doing it?
> My GC length is 24 cm, anyways im going to list down my rig set up so like that you'll have all informations you need and also later i'll post a pic of my rig:
> 
> - MB: Asus Z87 Gryphon
> - CPU: intel i5 4670k
> - GPU: Msi gtx 660 ti power edition OC
> - HDD: Toshiba DT01ACA100 1 To ( will add a ssd later)
> - RAM: Kingston HyperX beast 4*2
> 
> I can't install the 920 on the back cuz it wont fit due to its dimension, its only 80/92 mm , so the front is my best option, in the begin i was afraid that 920 tubes wont be enough longer but after checking ( 33 cm for tubing right? anyone to confirm?) and also measuring the distance i will need in my case i noticed everything gonna be alright . Here a pic of my rig :
> 
> http://img1.imagilive.com/1113/242c.JPG
> 
> Well its a mess as you can see lol but ill manage those lose cables once i install the watercooling .
> Here my plan for a max air flow :
> -ill move my HDD to the upper empty spot to have more space (specially for 920 tubes)
> 1-install the 920 in the front 120 mm in push pull ( pushing air inside the case)
> 2-install a 200 mm fan in push ( pushing air inside the case)
> 3-install a 92 mm fan on the back in extraction
> 4-install 2 120mm fans on the top of the case ( already done) in extraction
> 
> So this is fine for a good airflow? Or should i change anything?
> 
> Anyways know guys that im a beginner ( my first rig i mounted ) so ur advices are welcome
> Big thanks for everyone helped


oh really I thought the back looked like 120mm slot on the back, but the cooler wouldn't fit there anyways it would clash with your graphic card. Then your only option is to stick the 920 at the front or at the top. The tubing is 33cm/14inches, taken from Antecs website.


----------



## ammoune

Yea, when i mesured it i was kinda surpried anyways not big deal since it will fit in the front slot







 , gonna order my future 920 ! Hope i can get it sooner for max performance, and btw what abt the installation of the 920 + fans? This gonna give a good airflow? or should i do it somehow else ?


----------



## par

someone tried to use an antec h2o with delidded cpu without ihs?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> hey man,
> 
> I'm not sure if it is compatible :/
> I wanted to double check and checked the antec website:
> 
> *CPU Socket Compatibility:
> - Intel LGA 1155 / 1156 / 1366 / 2011, AMD AM2 / AM3 / AM2+ / AM3+ sockets*
> 
> Source:
> http://store.antec.com/Product/cooling-cpu_cooler/kuhler-h2o-920/0-761345-77086-6.aspx


It's compatible with the 1150, the same mounting kit for the 1155/1156

Also compatible with LGA 775, the back bracket has mounts for the 775


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> It's compatible with the 1150, the same mounting kit for the 1155/1156
> 
> Also compatible with LGA 775, the back bracket has mounts for the 775


great - good to hear official confirmation of it








Cheers buddy!


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Just to keep you guys updated for the new Kuhler 650, 950 and 1250

We are coming out with an accessory kit for the Kuhler's 650/950 and 1250

so far, we are working on the fan replacement first.

In the works will be a fan replacement that has some option, (different fan blade color red; white; black) and fans with LED (white, red and blue)

This will only work on the version 2 650, 950 and 1250

Some of the accessory we could not give out more info on it because its still being tested and we don't want other to steal our ideas, but just to give some hints, 950 and 1250, you don't have to monitor and control using your settings when logging into your PC.

Also, I need to get some feed back from some of you guys?

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Just to keep you guys updated for the new Kuhler 650, 950 and 1250
> 
> We are coming out with an accessory kit for the Kuhler's 650/950 and 1250
> 
> so far, we are working on the fan replacement first.
> 
> In the works will be a fan replacement that has some option, (different fan blade color red; white; black) and fans with LED (white, red and blue)
> 
> This will only work on the version 2 650, 950 and 1250
> 
> Some of the accessory we could not give out more info on it because its still being tested and we don't want other to steal our ideas, but just to give some hints, 950 and 1250, you don't have to monitor and control using your settings when logging into your PC.
> 
> Also, I need to get some feed back from some of you guys?
> 
> Thanks


thanks a lot for posting it here too







!

Fan replacement - good job
Replacement options - excellent
LED fans: nice touch
Other accessories, which I know of: Absolutely going to set aside Antec and their competitors - can't wait if and when they get released - sounds very promising. I think Antec are taking the right steps in that respect - maybe when it gets a bit more official you could come back and share some pictures with the club. I'm sure people will appreciate it







!

For club members: Trust me - it's cool!


----------



## M3TAl

I do like LED's but only if they can be turned on and off. Every single light in my case can be turned off. Some of us have our PC's where we sleep and no longer require a night light







.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I do like LED's but only if they can be turned on and off. Every single light in my case can be turned off. Some of us have our PC's where we sleep and no longer require a night light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


yup - that's why they will be additional fans one could buy.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Just to keep you guys updated for the new Kuhler 650, 950 and 1250
> 
> We are coming out with an accessory kit for the Kuhler's 650/950 and 1250
> 
> so far, we are working on the fan replacement first.
> 
> In the works will be a fan replacement that has some option, (different fan blade color red; white; black) and fans with LED (white, red and blue)
> 
> This will only work on the version 2 650, 950 and 1250
> 
> Some of the accessory we could not give out more info on it because its still being tested and we don't want other to steal our ideas, but just to give some hints, 950 and 1250, you don't have to monitor and control using your settings when logging into your PC.
> 
> Also, I need to get some feed back from some of you guys?
> 
> Thanks


Sounds like you guys are making good progress!! I'm looking forward to seeing what the end result is, and I'm definitely looking forward to the new 1250 - it will make a nice addition to my rig....


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I do like LED's but only if they can be turned on and off. Every single light in my case can be turned off. Some of us have our PC's where we sleep and no longer require a night light
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


LOL I'll try to suggest that to our engineers. How about an LED light that flickers and the whistling sound of the fan makes you fall asleep, will that work?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> LOL I'll try to suggest that to our engineers. How about an LED light that flickers and the whistling sound of the fan makes you fall asleep, will that work?


I prefer if it sang this:
haha


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Just to keep you guys updated for the new Kuhler 650, 950 and 1250
> 
> We are coming out with an accessory kit for the Kuhler's 650/950 and 1250
> 
> so far, we are working on the fan replacement first.
> 
> In the works will be a fan replacement that has some option, (different fan blade color red; white; black) and fans with LED (white, red and blue)
> 
> This will only work on the version 2 650, 950 and 1250
> 
> Some of the accessory we could not give out more info on it because its still being tested and we don't want other to steal our ideas, but just to give some hints, 950 and 1250, you don't have to monitor and control using your settings when logging into your PC.
> 
> Also, I need to get some feed back from some of you guys?
> 
> Thanks


LED FANS!!! I think I'm in love:wubsmiley
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> LOL I'll try to suggest that to our engineers. How about an LED light that flickers and the whistling sound of the fan makes you fall asleep, will that work?


Flicker would be even more awesome!!


----------



## par

uppp
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> someone tried to use an antec h2o with delidded cpu without ihs?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> uppp


I haven't seen one person from either the de-lidded club or this club to have done that.why do you want to do it bare die?


----------



## par

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *par*
> 
> uppp
> 
> 
> 
> I haven't seen one person from either the de-lidded club or this club to have done that.why do you want to do it bare die?
Click to expand...

simply whim


----------



## blaze2210

Does anyone happen to know how I would go about getting another mounting kit for the 620? It looks like I don't have all of the pieces I need to hook this up again....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I would contact Antec support


----------



## MightyTor

Hi!

I´ve encountered a problem with the PC I got from a friend.

He gave it to me after it had been standing around in his room and not being used for a couple of months. Lucky me









However, there is a slight problem, and it starts with H20 60...

The thing is, that the pump, I believe, isn´t working anymore.

When I first turned on the PC after coming home, the pump made a very loud noise.
And after a 1 minute of booting, the PC automatically turned off.
I thought that it may be because of the noise the pump made.
And tried to start it again. This time it turned off the PC after 10 seconds.

I opened up the plate to get to the pump. And after touching it, felt that it was really warm.
This led me to believe that it is broken.

I waited a couple of hours, and turned on the PC again. I pressed f12 as a mad man to get into the BIOS.
When in, I went to check out the CPU temperature. And as I suspected, it sky rocketed towards 100 celcius.
And it didn´t take anylonger than a minute, if even less than that...

So, I´ve sent Antec a request after some kind of warranty. Maybe they can fix it?

But, I was wondering if you guys had some insight that may actually fix this water cooling system right here and now, without going through Antec.

In advance, thanks for any advice and suggestions









(ps. I can provide video and sound for those of you who would like some, I just gotta upload it to YouTube first. Will be done if requested).

regards

MightyTor


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyTor*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I´ve encountered a problem with the PC I got from a friend.
> 
> He gave it to me after it had been standing around in his room and not being used for a couple of months. Lucky me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, there is a slight problem, and it starts with H20 60...
> 
> The thing is, that the pump, I believe, isn´t working anymore.
> 
> When I first turned on the PC after coming home, the pump made a very loud noise.
> And after a 1 minute of booting, the PC automatically turned off.
> I thought that it may be because of the noise the pump made.
> And tried to start it again. This time it turned off the PC after 10 seconds.
> 
> I opened up the plate to get to the pump. And after touching it, felt that it was really warm.
> This led me to believe that it is broken.
> 
> I waited a couple of hours, and turned on the PC again. I pressed f12 as a mad man to get into the BIOS.
> When in, I went to check out the CPU temperature. And as I suspected, it sky rocketed towards 100 celcius.
> And it didn´t take anylonger than a minute, if even less than that...
> 
> So, I´ve sent Antec a request after some kind of warranty. Maybe they can fix it?
> 
> But, I was wondering if you guys had some insight that may actually fix this water cooling system right here and now, without going through Antec.
> 
> In advance, thanks for any advice and suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (ps. I can provide video and sound for those of you who would like some, I just gotta upload it to YouTube first. Will be done if requested).
> 
> regards
> 
> MightyTor


a faulty pump can happen and the only real fix is to get it replaced and changed by Antec. Not much you can do, in all honesty and I wouldn't risk trying as you might damage your CPU by doing so


----------



## M3TAl

Sounds like a big bad air bubble trapped in the pump to me.

My 620 is on my gpu and sometimes after working on my PC the 620 will start clicking loudly and gpu hits 80C+ idle. I have to tilt my case a certain direction then the water gets flowing again. I guess there's been too much evaporation over time.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sounds like a big bad air bubble trapped in the pump to me.
> 
> My 620 is on my gpu and sometimes after working on my PC the 620 will start clicking loudly and gpu hits 80C+ idle. I have to tilt my case a certain direction then the water gets flowing again. I guess there's been too much evaporation over time.


it can be, but for the pump not to work at all, it's going to be more than just an air bubble.
Could actually be power related


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MightyTor*
> 
> Hi!
> 
> I´ve encountered a problem with the PC I got from a friend.
> 
> He gave it to me after it had been standing around in his room and not being used for a couple of months. Lucky me
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> However, there is a slight problem, and it starts with H20 60...
> 
> The thing is, that the pump, I believe, isn´t working anymore.
> 
> When I first turned on the PC after coming home, the pump made a very loud noise.
> And after a 1 minute of booting, the PC automatically turned off.
> I thought that it may be because of the noise the pump made.
> And tried to start it again. This time it turned off the PC after 10 seconds.
> 
> I opened up the plate to get to the pump. And after touching it, felt that it was really warm.
> This led me to believe that it is broken.
> 
> I waited a couple of hours, and turned on the PC again. I pressed f12 as a mad man to get into the BIOS.
> When in, I went to check out the CPU temperature. And as I suspected, it sky rocketed towards 100 celcius.
> And it didn´t take anylonger than a minute, if even less than that...
> 
> So, I´ve sent Antec a request after some kind of warranty. Maybe they can fix it?
> 
> But, I was wondering if you guys had some insight that may actually fix this water cooling system right here and now, without going through Antec.
> 
> In advance, thanks for any advice and suggestions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> (ps. I can provide video and sound for those of you who would like some, I just gotta upload it to YouTube first. Will be done if requested).
> 
> regards
> 
> MightyTor


Well, if Antec will replace it, then you're good to go....Otherwise, I'd say it's time to modify that thing....


----------



## M3TAl

Well it was making noise, does it not make any noise at all any more? The noise he first heard definitely seems like an air bubble.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well it was making noise, does it not make any noise at all any more? The noise he first heard definitely seems like an air bubble.


Normally, its a pretty quiet unit....So if you're hearing something, then most likely, something is wrong....


----------



## stevv

My 920 with Fesser shrouds =)



Thinking of changing fans to the Corsair SP120 High Performance PWM fans. yeah... PWM so it should fit nicely with the 920's fan controller.

Anybody tried them yet?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-040


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^That's a bit much lol


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know how I would go about getting another mounting kit for the 620? It looks like I don't have all of the pieces I need to hook this up again....


PM Me your shipping address and what kit do you need.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> PM Me your shipping address and what kit do you need.


This is good support, i think better than noctua's


----------



## blaze2210

Definitely stellar service!!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Does anyone happen to know how I would go about getting another mounting kit for the 620? It looks like I don't have all of the pieces I need to hook this up again....


If you still need one, I have 2 full extra kits left over.

PM me if you need one of them, we'll work something out.

EDIT: Missed Antec's response. Great service from those guys.

To anyone else, I still have 2 full extra kits laying around for anyone in need.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Definitely stellar service!!


Literally anyone I say: "stellar" to - people don't get!
You're the first person in a long time that I've seen say it.

Stellar = perfect / outstanding


----------



## Gereti

Allright, today my friend ordered he¨s computer part's and my cooler are coming too









Friend cooler+ case:
-Cooler master 130
-antec 920
-2x blue cooler master led fan's, these http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120.html

Mine part's
-Antec 920
-2x red cooler master led fan's, these http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120.html
static pressure was on those fan's 2.72 mmH2O ± 10%


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright, today my friend ordered he¨s computer part's and my cooler are coming too
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Friend cooler+ case:
> -Cooler master 130
> -antec 920
> -2x blue cooler master led fan's, these http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120.html
> 
> Mine part's
> -Antec 920
> -2x red cooler master led fan's, these http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120.html
> static pressure was on those fan's 2.72 mmH2O ± 10%


why not the 950?


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> why not the 950?


Not available on jimm's pc store
(ounly store where we ordered those part's, -24% sale when we bought part's throught scool)
here you can see, what antec cooler's are available on that store
http://www.jimms.fi/hae/g/394/v/24/min/0/max/0/ (1220/620/920/mounting kit for lga 2011 (620/920) )


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Definitely stellar service!!


Forgot to update you, your parts was shipped yesterday Morning, you should be getting the part sometime this week.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Literally anyone I say: "stellar" to - people don't get!
> You're the first person in a long time that I've seen say it.
> 
> Stellar = perfect / outstanding


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Literally anyone I say: "stellar" to - people don't get!
> You're the first person in a long time that I've seen say it.
> 
> Stellar = perfect / outstanding


How!?!? Have they never heard of last year hit song Stellar by Daddy's Grove? Or simply just didnt understand what the song meant -.-


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> My 920 with Fesser shrouds =)
> 
> 
> 
> Thinking of changing fans to the Corsair SP120 High Performance PWM fans. yeah... PWM so it should fit nicely with the 920's fan controller.
> 
> Anybody tried them yet?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=35-181-040


Wow that is definitely something!/ What case is that? Is everything suppose to be upside down XD?
Corsair FINALLY made A PWM version of the Sp120? I had those fans when they just came out, 3-pin ones. Now to add LED to them and they will be one a perfect fan for me! Definitely nice fans. Not as loud as the stock Antec fans on high. Work real well and are quiet on low-medium speeds. But than again I dont know what your definition of quiet is. For me 30dB is still fine.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> How!?!? Have they never heard of last year hit song Stellar by Daddy's Grove? Or simply just didnt understand what the song meant -.-


No idea mate haha!


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Wow that is definitely something!/ What case is that? Is everything suppose to be upside down XD?
> Corsair FINALLY made A PWM version of the Sp120? I had those fans when they just came out, 3-pin ones. Now to add LED to them and they will be one a perfect fan for me! Definitely nice fans. Not as loud as the stock Antec fans on high. Work real well and are quiet on low-medium speeds. But than again I dont know what your definition of quiet is. For me 30dB is still fine.


These are PWM too
- LED
-PWM
-Static pressure 2.72
http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120.html

I have coming 2 of those red one's soon, with 920


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> How!?!? Have they never heard of last year hit song Stellar by Daddy's Grove? Or simply just didnt understand what the song meant -.-


I have never heard of a Daddy's Grove... But then again I pay about 0.5% attention to mainstream "music"







Although stellar is not a new word to me.

Speaking of mounting hardware, wish my 620 had the newer version with the thumb screws and not the blue and green color coded parts. Also my 920 has a few missing pieces but that's because I got it off OCN Marketplace for a really nice price. Got the 620 direct from the Antec store.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I have never heard of a Daddy's Grove... But then again I pay about 0.5% attention to mainstream "music"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although stellar is not a new word to me.
> 
> Speaking of mounting hardware, wish my 620 had the newer version with the thumb screws and not the blue and green color coded parts. Also my 920 has a few missing pieces but that's because I got it off OCN Marketplace for a really nice price. Got the 620 direct from the Antec store.


PM me what parts do you need, your wish is my command


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I have never heard of a Daddy's Grove... But then again I pay about 0.5% attention to mainstream "music"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Although stellar is not a new word to me.
> 
> Speaking of mounting hardware, wish my 620 had the newer version with the thumb screws and not the blue and green color coded parts. Also my 920 has a few missing pieces but that's because I got it off OCN Marketplace for a really nice price. Got the 620 direct from the Antec store.


Well Stellar is a electric dance music type of a song. And since EDM is not big in America, even though its picking up, I can see how you missed it







. Sirius Xm rules btw. Since TD is British I figured he can relate.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Forgot to update you, your parts was shipped yesterday Morning, you should be getting the part sometime this week.


Spectacular!! I really appreciate it!!









So any updates on the revisions that are being done to the new series of Kuhlers?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Spectacular!! I really appreciate it!!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> So any updates on the revisions that are being done to the new series of Kuhlers?


So far, we've come up with a new fan layout design on the revision 2.0, which should have better static pressure.

What we are coming hopefully soon is an optional accessories for ex (fan blade in different color, fan with led's, etc.) Still in testing and being worked on, we are not sure if we can have the Grid software control the LED.

There are some other projects in the future for the Kuhlers.

We would like what your opinions or suggestions also so we can apply it


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> So far, we've come up with a new fan layout design on the revision 2.0, which should have better static pressure.
> 
> What we are coming hopefully soon is an optional accessories for ex (fan blade in different color, fan with led's, etc.) Still in testing and being worked on, we are not sure if we can have the Grid software control the LED.
> 
> There are some other projects in the future for the Kuhlers.
> 
> We would like what your opinions or suggestions also so we can apply it


It would be nice to have the LEDs be temperature sensitive, or be able to set the colors based on the CPU temp, as opposed to the normal liquid temp monitoring....its nice to have that "at a glance" type of monitoring....But without trying the unit out, that's the only thing i can think of....


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> So far, we've come up with a new fan layout design on the revision 2.0, which should have better static pressure.
> 
> What we are coming hopefully soon is an optional accessories for ex (fan blade in different color, fan with led's, etc.) Still in testing and being worked on, we are not sure if we can have the Grid software control the LED.
> 
> There are some other projects in the future for the Kuhlers.
> 
> We would like what your opinions or suggestions also so we can apply it


Me personally, I would like the ability to shut the LED's off completely.

Also, if we will be given the option to add extra sets of fans to the units, possibly a way to connect them to the pump or block, and not have to find a 3rd party piece of equipment to connect and power them. Similar to how the H100 was done, where it came with 2 fans in the box, but the waterblock gave access to an additional 2 fan plug ins so that users could attach a 2nd set of fans easily.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> It would be nice to have the LEDs be temperature sensitive, or be able to set the colors based on the CPU temp, as opposed to the normal liquid temp monitoring....its nice to have that "at a glance" type of monitoring....But without trying the unit out, that's the only thing i can think of....


We have that feature on the Kuhler 650, the cooling plate has a RGB LED based on temperature

But I will notify that to our engineer to include that on the LED fan as well


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> Me personally, I would like the ability to shut the LED's off completely.
> 
> Also, if we will be given the option to add extra sets of fans to the units, possibly a way to connect them to the pump or block, and not have to find a 3rd party piece of equipment to connect and power them. Similar to how the H100 was done, where it came with 2 fans in the box, but the waterblock gave access to an additional 2 fan plug ins so that users could attach a 2nd set of fans easily.


The 1250 has this feature as well, but make sure you're using a PWM fan so the Grid Software can control it, it has an available optional fan connectors just in case you want to add more.

As far as the fan with LED, the fan that came with the unit does not have LED's in them. You can purchase the accessory kit just in case you want to change the fans in different color or have a led in them.

The led that monitors the temp is a good idea, we can suggest that to our engineers.









Thanks Guys and Gals!


----------



## Destrto

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> The 1250 has this feature as well, but make sure you're using a PWM fan so the Grid Software can control it, it has an available optional fan connectors just in case you want to add more.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> As far as the fan with LED, the fan that came with the unit does not have LED's in them. You can purchase the accessory kit just in case you want to change the fans in different color or have a led in them.
> 
> The led that monitors the temp is a good idea, we can suggest that to our engineers.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Guys and Gals!


Nice, that is one of the features of the H100 that I still really like; the ability to add a 2nd set of fans and not have to occupy motherboard plugs or have to purchase some type of splitter or otherwise in order to power them. So, great job on incorporating that into one of the models.

Now, I know the smaller models will not have the software to monitor temps and fan speeds from the desktop, but will there be some other type of method, besides using a 3rd party software similar to Speedfan (for those that want to control it via Desktop) to do that?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Destrto*
> 
> [/SPOILER]
> 
> Nice, that is one of the features of the H100 that I still really like; the ability to add a 2nd set of fans and not have to occupy motherboard plugs or have to purchase some type of splitter or otherwise in order to power them. So, great job on incorporating that into one of the models.
> 
> Now, I know the smaller models will not have the software to monitor temps and fan speeds from the desktop, but will there be some other type of method, besides using a 3rd party software similar to Speedfan (for those that want to control it via Desktop) to do that?


Thanks for replying, on the 950, the unit is operated by the Grid software as well.

The Kuhler 650 on the other hand has an RGB LED that's based on Temperature, the unit is not controlled by the software. It will automatically adjust.

the LED on the unit has 3 colors, white, blue and red

Blue, means the CPU has a cool temp 0-22 degrees Celsius
White is average temp, from 22-42
Red is high temp meaning 38-and above in Celsius

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Thanks for replying, on the 950, the unit is operated by the Grid software as well.
> 
> The Kuhler 650 on the other hand has an RGB LED that's based on Temperature, the unit is not controlled by the software. It will automatically adjust.
> 
> the LED on the unit has 3 colors, white, blue and red
> 
> Blue, means the CPU has a cool temp 0-22 degrees Celsius
> White is average temp, from 22-42
> Red is high temp meaning 38-and above in Celsius
> 
> Thanks


I show this in my video:
http://youtu.be/jGTMc1DdnzA?t=20m46s

20m45seconds.

I wish people would go to the 650/950/1250 thread instead - would help







!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> So far, we've come up with a new fan layout design on the revision 2.0, which should have better static pressure.
> 
> What we are coming hopefully soon is an optional accessories for ex (fan blade in different color, fan with led's, etc.) Still in testing and being worked on, we are not sure if we can have the Grid software control the LED.
> 
> There are some other projects in the future for the Kuhlers.
> 
> We would like what your opinions or suggestions also so we can apply it


I'm no engineer, but whatever Crucial is doing with their Ballistix Tactical Tracers works pretty well. There's LED's in the bottom of the ram sticks and on the top. All controllable with their software. Brightness, different patterns, and color can all be controlled as well as turning them off.

Of course this would probably drive the price up. I have no idea what extra parts/circuitry is required to add this functionality. Then add the man hours for adding software control of the LED's.

I need to go through my 920 mounting parts and see exactly what's missing. Expect a PM probably tomorrow. It's really random. Think I have 3 of the 4 thumbscrews for AMD


----------



## Destrto

Yea Dubbed, I havent been over there yet. Need to at some point, I know. I'm subscribed to this thread and not the other one, only reason why i still reply to this one.


----------



## blaze2210

I've looked around that other thread a little bit, but I am not the proud owner of one of the new Kuhlers - yet....


----------



## SinatraFan

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> So far, we've come up with a new fan layout design on the revision 2.0, which should have better static pressure.
> 
> What we are coming hopefully soon is an optional accessories for ex (fan blade in different color, fan with led's, etc.) Still in testing and being worked on, we are not sure if we can have the Grid software control the LED.
> 
> There are some other projects in the future for the Kuhlers.
> 
> We would like what your opinions or suggestions also so we can apply it


My biggest beef with the 920 is the insane fan noise! I would say, get better fans that cool at a reduced db level and switchable LEDs would be nice as well. Although I'm about to switch over to a full custom loop, I still love my 920 and will use it with one of my kids machines. I did scrap the fans and replaced them with Cougars which lowered temps even more at a much lower noise level. As I said, this I guarantee is a major issue that if addressed would bring about many more users and tons of better reviews.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I wanted to let you guys know that I've passed on my 1250 to a friend who is going to possibly rip it to pieces and use the pumps in his custom loop configuration. He'll post here any mods that he does to it.


----------



## Maximization

i am always going to keep my 920, it has always worked flawlessly, i have learned allot from my 920


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I wanted to let you guys know that I've passed on my 1250 to a friend who is going to possibly rip it to pieces and use the pumps in his custom loop configuration. He'll post here any mods that he does to it.


I'm interested to see what kind of custom set-up could be made with this new cooler....Out of curiosity, any particular reason you passed the 1250 along?


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ^That's a bit much lol


Yeah, it' quite a monstrosity. Looks more subtle with doors closed









BTW, I see the original SP120's are doing good for you, will you also be checking out the SP120's PWM perfomance version?

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Wow that is definitely something!/ What case is that? Is everything suppose to be upside down XD?
> Corsair FINALLY made A PWM version of the Sp120? I had those fans when they just came out, 3-pin ones.
> ...
> But than again I dont know what your definition of quiet is. For me 30dB is still fine.


What do you mean "upside down" ... that's the true way! lol That's the antec lanboy air. I gutted everything that made it look like "80's fashion". I prefer the inverted layout... I just think its a shame to hide the video card or anything else with nice shroud designs. Too bad the motherboard's skull and power supply sticker doesn't agree (I'll have to fix the sticker but can't fix the skull







)... but check out the video card fan shroud... the engraved logo on side was made for "upside down"









I had to double check the SP120's a few times because I didn't bother with them since they where 3pin when first released. Under $30 for a pair too.

edit: I can sleep with the antec fans maxed ...







(ringing in my ears are even louder haha)

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> These are PWM too
> - LED
> -PWM
> -Static pressure 2.72
> http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/case-fan/jetflo-120.html
> 
> I have coming 2 of those red one's soon, with 920


I was looking to get those for case fans. The corsair's looks like better performers for rad that are restrictive. 3.3 at the same dB level as the Jetflow.

http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/74/1341.html?start=4
http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/74/1058.html?start=7

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> i am always going to keep my 920, it has always worked flawlessly, i have learned allot from my 920


This it's kind of an underrated cooler. Clean cable and fan connections and monitoring... most system STILL don't have that. Software could be better. I see there's an update to version VI, but not sure what they mean by V4 only.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I'm interested to see what kind of custom set-up could be made with this new cooler....Out of curiosity, any particular reason you passed the 1250 along?


well a few reasons:
1. Because I know my friend would enjoy having it
2. Because I have no need for it (as you'll know from my OP in the 1250 thread, that it is louder)
3. Because my 920 is super silent and does more than enough for my setup
4. Because I noticed a little bearing noise within one of the pumps - and wanted my friend to investigate it (performance wasn't effected, just the mini noise that was there kind of put me off, especially seeing as I'm a super silent PC type-guy)
5. Because right after sending it to my friend, I got an email from DHL saying a 1250v2 is on its way to me - basically like karma


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> well a few reasons:
> 1. Because I know my friend would enjoy having it
> 2. Because I have no need for it (as you'll know from my OP in the 1250 thread, that it is louder)
> 3. Because my 920 is super silent and does more than enough for my setup
> 4. Because I noticed a little bearing noise within one of the pumps - and wanted my friend to investigate it (performance wasn't effected, just the mini noise that was there kind of put me off, especially seeing as I'm a super silent PC type-guy)
> 5. Because right after sending it to my friend, I got an email from DHL saying a 1250v2 is on its way to me - basically like karma


All very good reasons....







Make sure you give updates and take lots of pics of the 1250 v2, that's the one that I'm extremely looking forward to....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> All very good reasons....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Make sure you give updates and take lots of pics of the 1250 v2, that's the one that I'm extremely looking forward to....


Oh definitely will do and the 950 etc!
It isn't actually being name the v2 - it is just for us guys, it will be distinguished easier as the V2.
The "v2" comes with removable fans and some other improvements (so I've heard)


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Oh definitely will do and the 950 etc!
> It isn't actually being name the v2 - it is just for us guys, it will be distinguished easier as the V2.
> The "v2" comes with removable fans and some other improvements (so I've heard)


Kinda what I figured, but saying "v2" in here does aid in distinguishing between the 2 units....


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> Yeah, it' quite a monstrosity. Looks more subtle with doors closed
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> BTW, I see the original SP120's are doing good for you, will you also be checking out the SP120's PWM perfomance version?


I found out some unfortunate things about the Corsair PWM fans the other day from people over in the OCN water cooling club & gallery and the Swiftech H220 club. You can't run more than around 4 of them off one PWM signal. Not a problem if using less than 5 of them though. This could possibly be a problem with other PWM fans also. The Corsairs are the only confirmed so far though.

Thing is a lot of people with large custom loops run tons of PWM fans off splitters though (myself included once I build my custom loop, 10x PWM cougar vortexes). So the PWM Corsair fans aren't an option in situations like that, they'll just run at full speed.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BramSLI1*
> 
> I've worked with our engineer here to determine the source of the issues with using Corsair fans with our splitter. It turns out that it's due to the way the IC has been designed in Corsair's fans. Their fans require a much stronger pulse current to adjust speed that's set by the motherboard. Due to this, if you use more than 4 of their fans on the splitter they can't read the pulse current and thus run at full speed.
> 
> Our fans were designed to run with a much weaker pulse current so that you're able to run 8 of them off of the same motherboard header. This apparently wasn't part of Corsair's design for their fans. The issue therefore isn't our splitter. It's the fans that you intend to use with it. We assumed that other PWM fan manufacturers would follow the same specifications so that up to 8 of their fans would run off of a single header. This obviously isn't the case.
> 
> We would actually have to put a signal booster on the PCB to make it compatible with other brands of PWM fans. This wasn't part of our design and so far it isn't something we're planning on doing. I hope this helps to clear up this issue.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I found out some unfortunate things about the Corsair PWM fans the other day from people over in the OCN water cooling club & gallery and the Swiftech H220 club. You can't run more than around 4 of them off one PWM signal. Not a problem if using less than 5 of them though. This could possibly be a problem with other PWM fans also. The Corsairs are the only confirmed so far though.


I guess if Corsair George is listening, that's another product they can come up with. PWM splitter for power hungry fans.


----------



## Belial

Hey guys, I got a question for you. I plan to change the tubing to my H60 2013 and H110 (the latter is an asetek rebrand). I'm well aware of the risks and futility of the mod, it's entirely an aesthetic mod and there are many other reasons why custom is not the answer (you can look at the dedicated thread I made if you want to badger me why not to do it -_- )


What size tubing is used? ID and OD? It appears the H110 uses _7/16 OD_ tubing, as 3/8 ID tubing wouldnt wrap over it as too small, and 4/8 aka 1/2 was too big, but 7/16 was just right. I'm pretty sure that these CLCs use some super-thick triple layer rubber neoprene/mesh/neoprene, so it has an unconventional OD, but I'm not entirely sure if the ID is exactly 1/4, or if it's an unconventional size like 5/16 or 3/16.

Can you get the hose clamps off without breaking them? I really like the look of them, I actually would like to use them (or similar clamps) instead of using some other style of clamps. How do you do it? Cut the hose, then dig at it from the inside or something? And... just not break the barbs or something?
Thanks! I know a few people here have done it, please no lectures on 'omg just get an h220', i'm well aware of the risks and uselessness. Again, it's an aesthetic mod done for fun, not for performance


----------



## M3TAl

I would have to look up what the tubing size is but it is some kind of neoprene which is supposed to have a very low evaporation rate.

If the H110 uses 7/16" barbs then you actually should be able to get 3/8" tubing on there with some heating. Put the 3/8" in some hot water and stretch some with pliers. A lot of times you can get away with say 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs with no clamp or zip tie at all.

I've seen a tutorial somewhere before too where someone got the tubing off without cutting the clamps. I should have bookmarked it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Hey guys, I got a question for you. I plan to change the tubing to my H60 2013 and H110 (the latter is an asetek rebrand). I'm well aware of the risks and futility of the mod, it's entirely an aesthetic mod and there are many other reasons why custom is not the answer (you can look at the dedicated thread I :


Just a little confused why you're asking this in the Antec club?
You might get more responses in the Corsair one.


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I would have to look up what the tubing size is but it is some kind of neoprene which is supposed to have a very low evaporation rate.
> 
> If the H110 uses 7/16" barbs then you actually should be able to get 3/8" tubing on there with some heating. Put the 3/8" in some hot water and stretch some with pliers. A lot of times you can get away with say 7/16" tubing on 1/2" barbs with no clamp or zip tie at all.
> 
> I've seen a tutorial somewhere before too where someone got the tubing off without cutting the clamps. I should have bookmarked it










If you could find that tutorial...
Quote:


> Just a little confused why you're asking this in the Antec club?
> You might get more responses in the Corsair one.


Because the h110 is an asetek rebrand, just like the antec kuhlers are. I'd likely get better responses here than in the corsair club, as most corsairs are coolit ecos, not aseteks, and my main concern is the diameter tubing used on the H110, which I would presume is the same as the Kuhler 620/920.

I'll crosspost over there too, but I would imagine I'd get better responses here as more kuhlers have been modded, while not as many corsair units have besides the h50 maybe.


----------



## M3TAl

Ok so the 620 & 920 use 1/4" ID tubing. The OD is only somewhat important. The only affects that has is how stiff the tubing is, how well it bends before kinking, and how fast you get evaporation.

Can't find the tutorial of the guy removing the tubing without cutting the clamp things... But from limited memory he just used a flat head screwdriver and worked it loose slowly. Something like that.


----------



## Maximization

you can actually buy the tubing in bulk some custom water designs use it.


----------



## diggiddi

How does the 920 compare to the H80i?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Can't find the tutorial of the guy removing the tubing without cutting the clamp things... But from limited memory he just used a flat head screwdriver and worked it loose slowly. Something like that.


You'll have to use a heat gun and a small flat head screw driver when removing the tubing


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Hey guys - new 1250 is in - please move the discussion to the new thread:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1442697/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-650-950-1250-owners-club-impressions-thread/10#post_21361710


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Hey guys - new 1250 is in - please move the discussion to the new thread:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1442697/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-650-950-1250-owners-club-impressions-thread/10#post_21361710


Hmm, nice cooler i would say
school order tomorrow our pc part¨s, so i hope that i could get my part¨s before 20.12, christmas holiday ;/
hngh, i want oc my cpu again


----------



## Recursion

Urgent! Can someone please upload the CCIVSettings.ini file from the %ProgramFiles%/Antec CC/ folder? I urgently need the file because I can't save my settings and it says the CCIVSettings.ini is not found. I have tried to uninstall and re-install the app to noavail. Please upload! Thank you!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Urgent! Can someone please upload the CCIVSettings.ini file from the %ProgramFiles%/Antec CC/ folder? I urgently need the file because I can't save my settings and it says the CCIVSettings.ini is not found. I have tried to uninstall and re-install the app to noavail. Please upload! Thank you!


Here's the ANTECCC folder taken from my X86 program file folder on my PC (I run 64bit though):
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36293216/Antec%20CC.rar

Let me know when you grab it.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Here's the ANTECCC folder taken from my X86 program file folder on my PC (I run 64bit though):
> https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/36293216/Antec%20CC.rar
> 
> Let me know when you grab it.


Hi! My problem is that my settings is reset back to other values when I reboot. I used process monitor to inspect and the driver gives file not found error very, very often. I tried to rename the *.lclc file found in your folder to no avail. Look at my screenshot. Can you look for a CCIVSettings.ini file please? It must be in %ProgramFiles%/Antec CC folder. Thanks a lot!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Hi! My problem is that my settings is reset back to other values when I reboot. I used process monitor to inspect and the driver gives file not found error very, very often. I tried to rename the *.lclc file found in your folder to no avail. Look at my screenshot. Can you look for a CCIVSettings.ini file please? It must be in %ProgramFiles%/Antec CC folder. Thanks a lot!


Download what I provided you with - that's literally the whole CC folder within my C drive.
You can find it in that DB package.

Also go to CCV5 , you're on V4.


----------



## Gereti

allright, today we ordered stuff, and friend ordered 2x 920+ 4 fan's for them

and i ordered...asus 990FX crosshair V formula -Z mobo 163€
hoaoh, my wallet was crying but... nah...


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Download what I provided you with - that's literally the whole CC folder within my C drive.
> You can find it in that DB package.
> 
> Also go to CCV5 , you're on V4.


Strange. I can't find it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Strange. I can't find it.


Can you download this and install it:
http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> allright, today we ordered stuff, and friend ordered 2x 920+ 4 fan's for them
> 
> and i ordered...asus 990FX crosshair V formula -Z mobo 163€
> hoaoh, my wallet was crying but... nah...


Happy days


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Can you download this and install it:
> http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip
> Happy days


Hi, Nevermind. I already tried it. Downloaded and reinstall v1, v1.2 to no avail. It gives me file not found. I need this CCIVSettings.ini file. The process monitor tracks the file and it's not there. When I reboot my settings reset back to some strange values.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Hi, Nevermind. I already tried it. Downloaded and reinstall v1, v1.2 to no avail. It gives me file not found. I need this CCIVSettings.ini file. The process monitor tracks the file and it's not there. When I reboot my settings reset back to some strange values.


what settings are you talking about?

As for that settings file - I swear it's included in my DB folder I sent you....


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> what settings are you talking about?
> 
> As for that settings file - I swear it's included in my DB folder I sent you....


I tried to rename that file but it doesn't work. I'm also on W8 and 64-bit. I need to save my settings because my settings reset back to normal when I reboot. BTW. You can check process monitor for CCIVSettings.ini file.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Wait for Antec support I guess - see what they say.
I'll forward them to you (on here)


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I tried to rename that file but it doesn't work. I'm also on W8 and 64-bit. I need to save my settings because my settings reset back to normal when I reboot. BTW. You can check process monitor for CCIVSettings.ini file.


Hi please do the following:

Uninstall the old version or any version of the Chill control software-->unplug the USB connector-->shut down-->reconnect the USB connector-->start your computer-->install Chill Control V Rev 1.2

See if that works.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Hi please do the following:
> 
> Uninstall the old version or any version of the Chill control software-->unplug the USB connector-->shut down-->reconnect the USB connector-->start your computer-->install Chill Control V Rev 1.2
> 
> See if that works.


Can you send me the file? I think I have to work a lot with your solution?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Can you send me the file? I think I have to work a lot with your solution?


I'm not sure what file are you referring to but you can download the Chill Control V version 1.2 on this link
http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I tried to rename that file but it doesn't work. I'm also on W8 and 64-bit. I need to save my settings because my settings reset back to normal when I reboot. BTW. You can check process monitor for CCIVSettings.ini file.


I guess we have different version of CC? I'm also on W8 x64 and that file doesn't exist in the Antec CC folder or anywhere on my C drive.

EDIT: ah I'm on CC V I guess.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

*My review of the Antec1250:*


----------



## winterwarrior

Hi all, i've signed myself up so here's a pic of my setup











X2 620s on my two GTX 560 ti cards with two Gently Typhoon AP-15s for good measure. Was torn about using one of them for the CPU but the H50 is still running fine on there and the GPUs really needed the Kuhlers, now they sound like a whisper instead of a tornado









Best decision I've ever made noise wise for my PC. With one card noise wasn't an issue as long as I didn't crank up the overclock on it. But with two and both overclocked to 1Ghz they would just scream after about 10 min of Bioshock Infinite.

Let me know what ya all think and suggestions are always appreciated


----------



## Totally Dubbed

No suggestions or improvements to an awesome setup - nice one man!


----------



## M3TAl

One is zip tied and the other looks like some kind of bracket? What bracket is that?


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> One is zip tied and the other looks like some kind of bracket? What bracket is that?


The bracket is just some scrap plywood that I had lying around, cut out the holes and used one of the fans from the original cooler. The pic below is not the current one, I redid it flipped around so the hoses route out the top.



The other card is indeed zip tied in, the inside one needed some way to have direct airflow over the VRM heatsink so thus the bracket. The outside one there was room for a 120 fan there so no need for the extensive bracket.

I've got two of the NZXT G10 brackets coming (hopefully soon but the NZXT rep says end of January for the next shipment) so when i get those everything will get cleaned up and look a lot nicer, this is all just to get them on there and get everything tested.

For anyone interested here's a link for the G10s

http://store.nzxt.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=RL-KRG10

The first batch sold out in just a couple days and they just opened up pre-orders again for the next bunch getting shipped in.

Here's another shot of the Current bracket closer up.


----------



## M3TAl

Haha plywood? I'm not trying to make fun but that would scare me to death, with warping and all. Wood isn't a very stable material. It changes with the environment/atmospheric conditions etc.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

And if it gets too hot burn baby burn








Is there an nzxt rep on ocn?


----------



## M3TAl

There used to be an NZXT rep but I think he works for someone else now. Not sure if there's a new one.


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Haha plywood? I'm not trying to make fun but that would scare me to death, with warping and all. Wood isn't a very stable material. It changes with the environment/atmospheric conditions etc.


I totally agree, when I installed it it did flex more the I liked to be honest. I think it will hold up well enough for the next couple months till the NZXT brackets get here but I wouldn't be comfortable trusting it for the long term. When I made the 2nd one and flipped the pump around, the bottom of the bracket ended up being way thinner then I liked, but couldn't do anything about it if I wanted to keep the block centered on the chip.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> And if it gets too hot burn baby burn
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Is there an nzxt rep on ocn?


That's why I won't be doing overnight Furmark stability test with this thing








And honestly the zip ties that I used are not super high quality either, It seems to hold up just fine while gaming but I would bet that a long Furmark run could definitely weaken the zip ties to some extent. From what I have read you can get high temp high quality zip ties to use that would hold up just fine long term but I'm to impatient









Yea there is a rep that's been on over at the thread for the news release of this product.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1445970/legitreviews-nzxt-announces-kraken-g10-liquid-cooled-gpu-mounting-kit/0_100

Deadpool is the reps OCN name i believe


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I guess we have different version of CC? I'm also on W8 x64 and that file doesn't exist in the Antec CC folder or anywhere on my C drive.
> 
> EDIT: ah I'm on CC V I guess.


The file can be hidden in Windows explorer. Before pointing on others please verify it. You can also use process monitor to track the *.exe, i.e. reverse engineer your system because of 1000 reasons. Nevermind. Thanks for the help, if you are interested I can post how I did solve my problem?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Wait for Antec support I guess - see what they say.
> I'll forward them to you (on here)


Nevermind. Thanks for the help, if you are interested I can post how I did solve my problem?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Nevermind. Thanks for the help, if you are interested I can post how I did solve my problem?


definitely! Always good to know the solution to problems.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> definitely! Always good to know the solution to problems.


I will explain it with an example (copy&paste):
Quote:


> If the above does not help, please download the Process Monitor Tool to capture the activity of xxx.exe while it is being launched. Once you have downloaded it, launch the Process Monitor Tool first, and then click "Filter" from the menu bar. After that, click "Filter" again, and a new window will popup.
> 
> You will see a drop down list showing "Architecture". Change that to "Process Name". After that, in the textbox on the right, enter "xxx.exe", and press the "Add" button below, then press the "Ok" button. Once done, launch xxx.
> 
> After the error appears, click "Ok", and go back to the Process Monitor Tool. Click "File" from the menu bar, and then click "Save". After that, take note of where you are saving the file (LogFile.PML), and click the "Ok" button.
> 
> Once done, please upload LogFile.PML to XXX or any online file hosting service and then post the link back here again so that readers can have a look at the logs for further analysis,


I didn't use the logfile but I captured the activity and filter it by activity like register activity and file activity. With my problem the ANTEC driver didn't found the register key:

Code:



Code:


HKLM\Software\Wow6432Node\Antec Inc.\ChillControl V\1.2.0.0

. I corrected it and then I tried the application again and I captured another activity in:*C:\Users\XXX\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Program Files (x86)\Antec CC\*. This is where the file *settings.lclc* from our archive folder goes and what I needed. The setting file is saved into *C:\Users\XXX\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Program Files (x86)\Antec CC\*
and not into *%ProgramFiles%*. The same file in *%ProgramFiles%* is not used or maybe used for another reason. BTW. I'm not an expert with Process Monitor but the ANTEC driver is loading very often, in fact 4-5x times in a second , the hidden file *CCIVSettings.ini*. I can imagine with so many read-errors it can slow down our pc? Or maybe it's an error in Process Monitor? Needless to say I also tried to un-install and re-install the driver, I also used a registry cleaner and rebooted to no avail. I hope it helps.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Plus rep for sharing that thanks dude, glad you got it sorted


----------



## Belial

Is it possible to replace the pump barbs? I know they kinda come out on these asetek units, but was wondering what exactly comes out. Is it a standard G1/4 thread, or is it some custom piece?

If its a custom piece, how exactly does it fit?

I'd like to replace the barbs on my asetek closed loop with compression fittings. I know this can be done easily on the rad, just chop off the metal barbs with a dremel and either tap it or cold-weld with some jbweld a compression fitting or adaptor, but I'm not sure how to replace the fittings on the pump since they are plastic.

I knw this is a lot of work and highly unrecommendable, but I am modding and rational decision making is not part of the process


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Belial*
> 
> Is it possible to replace the pump barbs? I know they kinda come out on these asetek units, but was wondering what exactly comes out. Is it a standard G1/4 thread, or is it some custom piece?
> 
> If its a custom piece, how exactly does it fit?
> 
> I'd like to replace the barbs on my asetek closed loop with compression fittings. I know this can be done easily on the rad, just chop off the metal barbs with a dremel and either tap it or cold-weld with some jbweld a compression fitting or adaptor, but I'm not sure how to replace the fittings on the pump since they are plastic.
> 
> *I knw this is a lot of work and highly unrecommendable*, but I am modding and rational decision making is not part of the process


On the contrary, I highly recommend it!







Not because I know anything about what you might be attempting to do but because of this: This is what modding is about to me, it's about testing your skills
or just to see if it's possible
or Just to make your rig look cooler (this one kills the wife cause it's money spent for no performance increase, i tried telling her that it increases the speed of my awesome but i don't think she's buying it)
or (since this is OCN) to try and squeeze that last 1-2C drop out of your chip!

I'll do some digging on replacing barbs and will post it here if I find anything relevant. What's the model of your asetek unit?


----------



## Belial

Corsair h110. Same build as the antecs and thermaltakes and some of the other corsairs.


----------



## manching

hi guys. i'm new to this thread. i just want to ask how will i fit my antec kuler 920 to my haf 912 without removing my 2 120mm fans on top? any ideas. or should i installed my radiator outside the case? thanks!


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manching*
> 
> hi guys. i'm new to this thread. i just want to ask how will i fit my antec kuler 920 to my haf 912 without removing my 2 120mm fans on top? any ideas. or should i installed my radiator outside the case? thanks!


Well, unless you are planning on removing the tubing from the 920, then I think your only option is to install it inside your case. Is there some particular reason why you're not wanting to remove/move the 120mm fans from the top of the case?


----------



## Belial

Quote:


> hi guys. i'm new to this thread. i just want to ask how will i fit my antec kuler 920 to my haf 912 without removing my 2 120mm fans on top? any ideas. or should i installed my radiator outside the case? thanks!


I've seen people install CLCs outside their case, you just make a small hole where the rad will cover, enough to fit your block through. Feed it through, mount the rad on top, no one sees the hole . Drill holes for screws.

You can probably mount to your rear by having it like Case Rear Wall / Fan / CLC. Or just mount it in the front - cable ties, drilled screw holes, custom bracket, etc etc.


----------



## manching

thank you for the suggestions. ive installed it rear inside the case push/pull. i'd removed 1 120mm fan on top. i guess i need to make a top cover because my kid might drop something from the hole.

thank you again.


----------



## Gereti

damn
allmost...
we allmost get 2x920 when...
*not available*

okay, 950 is now available but...
we have no idea, is it v1, or v2...

i think that it's v1...
http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/0-761345-77186-3


So, maby i say to my friend to get 2 H80i's...
it look's pretty similar like 920, tubing's ,etc...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That looks like the v1 - give our Antec rep a pm


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That looks like the v1 - give our Antec rep a pm


well, my friend ordered two H80i

buuut, it was allmost same like 920 (same tubing, radiator, ounly block was different)

i see one (one (1)) good thing with that H80i
-i can use stock cooler mounting









well, we see that is that good cooler or not

friend bought it to me so it's free for me so...
620's was many on that store, availabe +25 but but...

So when (if) i got that, i can tell you some information if you want to know something


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> damn
> allmost...
> we allmost get 2x920 when...
> *not available*
> 
> okay, 950 is now available but...
> we have no idea, is it v1, or v2...
> 
> i think that it's v1...
> http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/0-761345-77186-3
> 
> 
> So, maby i say to my friend to get 2 H80i's...
> it look's pretty similar like 920, tubing's ,etc...


That picture is the 950 V1, the V2 won't be in the market by January. We are just waiting for shipments


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> That picture is the 950 V1, the V2 won't be in the market by January. We are just waiting for shipments


Okay, thanks for information









well, i going to get h80i but...
no one can't say, why i won't upgrade that on future to something antec product








(matx rig would be perfect home to H80i if i get am3/am3+ matx mobo what take's my 960T phenom II CPU)


----------



## Gereti

allright, this is double becose last message is so *old*

got h80i and i have to say, it's okay cooler but

tubes are horrible, too hard tubes aren't nice

on this build it was okay


but this...
my friend computer what i build and used h80i too
---it was horrible...


how hard tube's antec model's include?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

They're quite flexible


----------



## M3TAl

They should be the same... Both neoprene/norpene (whatever it's called







) tubing and likely the same inner + outer diameter. And they do flex a good amount.


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> They're quite flexible


+This

I've got two, an older one and a almost new one and both have quite flexible tubes, way better then the tubes on my old H50, not nearly as stiff and way easier to bend around.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> They should be the same... Both neoprene/norpene (whatever it's called
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) tubing and likely the same inner + outer diameter. And they do flex a good amount.


Have a friend who just got a H80i and I must say that even though I was under the impression that the tubes on it "should" be the same as on the 620/920, they did seem more rigid. Could just be my imagination though as we didn't have the 620 of mine there to do a direct comparison. Either way though just thank the stars the the old "corrugated" tubes like the H50s don't seem to be as common anymore







they always felt like they where gonna snap if I bent the around to much.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterwarrior*
> 
> +This
> 
> I've got two, an older one and a almost new one and both have quite flexible tubes, way better then the tubes on my old H50, not nearly as stiff and way easier to bend around.
> Have a friend who just got a H80i and I must say that even though I was under the impression that the tubes on it "should" be the same as on the 620/920, they did seem more rigid. Could just be my imagination though as we didn't have the 620 of mine there to do a direct comparison. Either way though just thank the stars the the old "corrugated" tubes like the H50s don't seem to be as common anymore
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> they always felt like they where gonna snap if I bent the around to much.


Yeah, it was horrible to fit that CM 130 mitx case,
i had same fiilings that *now it going to snap*...


----------



## unknown601

Wow very nice cooling system, I really like the water powered fans


----------



## blaze2210

Just came across the following thread again, this guy shows how to swap out the tubing on the Kuhlers....
















http://www.overclock.net/t/1424611/build-log-a-kuhler-mod-for-2#post_20749067


----------



## spikezone2004

Anyone know how the fan blades come off on the antec fans that come with the kuhler? I want to paint my fan blades but don't want to break the fan


----------



## Maximization

don't do it, you will throw the balance off on the fans, if you can use a dye or something, maybe


----------



## M3TAl

I've painted 8 Cougar Vortexes, all working fine. He already painted two of his and they work fine. Many people paint theirs, haven't seen too many problems.


----------



## sylock232

Can anyone recommend me some decent fans around $20 to replace the stock fans? The fan sounds are getting really annoying.


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> Can anyone recommend me some decent fans around $20 to replace the stock fans? The fan sounds are getting really annoying.


Corsair SP120 twin pack.


----------



## sylock232

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *BWAS1000*
> 
> Corsair SP120 twin pack.


I'm guessing silent edition?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> I'm guessing silent edition?


I think the performance ones come with low-noise adapters as well, so i'd grab that.


----------



## Tobiman

Anyone know where I can get chill ctrl v1.2 ? I'm currently using V5 but it doesn't work.


----------



## Weshhh

Well apparently Antec Does not have it on its site anymore so i uploaded it for you!

Here you go http://www.sendspace.com/file/v6wqv5


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I would go for sp120 quiet editions, the performance is a little ott for normal usage and is louder at higher rpms. The adapter is a 12v to 7v converter. Not really suggested for cpu fans if you ask me


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I would go for sp120 quiet editions, the performance is a little ott for normal usage and is louder at higher rpms. The adapter is a 12v to 7v converter. Not really suggested for cpu fans if you ask me


Take what you will from that, makes sense, but i'd still grab a performance fan

Sent from my GT-S7562L using Tapatalk


----------



## igmas

Does anyone know how to control two Antec Khülers (I got 920V4 and 1220)?
I can control the 1220 but the other one does what it wants.(Default settings?)
I also put them on the same header to free up the second one for front usb.


----------



## M3TAl

Don't think anyone has ever tried that before. I have no idea. I would guess they both need to be on separate USB header and two separate version of the software need to be installed.

The software for the 1220 is new and completely different from the old Chill Control for the 920's.


----------



## 8bitG33k

So, I'm thinking of modding my 920 to mount it on the outside of my case, rather than the inside. This will require me to remove the tubing so I can route it through the back of my case.
|
Has anyone successfully done this mod and give me any pointers/ hints/ tips?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> So, I'm thinking of modding my 920 to mount it on the outside of my case, rather than the inside. This will require me to remove the tubing so I can route it through the back of my case.
> |
> Has anyone successfully done this mod and give me any pointers/ hints/ tips?


A couple pages back, I posted a link that helps explain how to do it....


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> So, I'm thinking of modding my 920 to mount it on the outside of my case, rather than the inside. This will require me to remove the tubing so I can route it through the back of my case.
> |
> Has anyone successfully done this mod and give me any pointers/ hints/ tips?


some guy used lighter to heat tube's and took them off on some cooler

i think that it would work with that too


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> some guy used lighter to heat tube's and took them off on some cooler
> 
> i think that it would work with that too


That's the one I linked to, it's on the previous page of this thread, my post on the top....


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> A couple pages back, I posted a link that helps explain how to do it....


Word!


----------



## igmas

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't think anyone has ever tried that before. I have no idea. I would guess they both need to be on separate USB header and two separate version of the software need to be installed.
> 
> The software for the 1220 is new and completely different from the old Chill Control for the 920's.


Going to test that out and see if the 920 shows up on the older software. Thanks for the tip.


----------



## LocutusH

Any experience with the lifespan of the 620 coolers?

I have mine running for 30 months now in 24/7... do i need to replace it soon? I have had no problems yet...


----------



## spikezone2004

only problem i ever seemed to have was liquid inside got low either due to evaporation or low liquid to begin with and i rmad it and got a new one


----------



## 8bitG33k

Still trying to figure out how to mount the radiator of my 920 outside my case... I don't see how this can be done without adding a reservoir.

The problem is, after removing the tubes from the radiator, and then routing the tubes to the outside of the case to remount them, where would that leave the coolant? ie, one would really need to remount the whole set outside the case in order to propeely refill the unit, no? Hope I'm making sense...


----------



## M3TAl

Ya reservoir would be the way to go. Don't know how you would fill it otherwise.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Ya reservoir would be the way to go. Don't know how you would fill it otherwise.


I may just have to take a dremel to the case then to widen the existing tube holes enough to fit the block thingy through...


----------



## 8bitG33k

Does anyone know if one can get double or triple size PCI slot covers anywhere? I cant seem to find any.

I'm thinking I could remove one or two of the PCI spacers in he back of the case to make enough headroom to route the 920 waterblock from the outside the case to the inside. Then I can replace the one or two PCI slot with a double adapter.


----------



## DjBodya

.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Still trying to figure out how to mount the radiator of my 920 outside my case... I don't see how this can be done without adding a reservoir.
> 
> The problem is, after removing the tubes from the radiator, and then routing the tubes to the outside of the case to remount them, where would that leave the coolant? ie, one would really need to remount the whole set outside the case in order to propeely refill the unit, no? Hope I'm making sense...


What I saw done when ppl replaced the tubes on the 920 is that just get a bucket or something like that fill it up with coolant. Then submerge the radiator with one tube connected to it already. The one that takes the water from the pump to the radiator. then also submerge the other tube that takes water from the radiator to the pump. Once everything is set in place turn on your unit and run it until all the bubbles are gone and then while everything is still submerged connect the the second tube to the radiator. This way it should be a perfect seal without letting any water get out or any air get in after the bubbles bubbled out.
Actually found the place where I saw this. Hopefully the link works.
http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/14543-replace-tubes-of-antec-kuhler-620-and-920/


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> What I saw done when ppl replaced the tubes on the 920 is that just get a bucket or something like that fill it up with coolant. Then submerge the radiator with one tube connected to it already. The one that takes the water from the pump to the radiator. then also submerge the other tube that takes water from the radiator to the pump. Once everything is set in place turn on your unit and run it until all the bubbles are gone and then while everything is still submerged connect the the second tube to the radiator. This way it should be a perfect seal without letting any water get out or any air get in after the bubbles bubbled out.
> Actually found the place where I saw this. Hopefully the link works.
> http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/14543-replace-tubes-of-antec-kuhler-620-and-920/


Thanks man, I really appreciate your feedback on my question!

However, due to the limitations imposed by my case, I will not be able to implement a radiator. I am just looking for a way to mount the radiator on the outside of the case. Cutting away one or two of the PCI slots should give me a wide enough gap to fit the waterblock through.

Just gotta figure out a way to close up the gap after.


----------



## Gereti

what you guy's think, is this better than antec's x)
http://translate.google.fi/translate?hl=fi&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ferra.ru%2Fru%2Fcasecool%2Fs25886%2F&sandbox=1
I just bought that, used but non used unit
and it was *allmost free*


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Thanks man, I really appreciate your feedback on my question!
> 
> However, due to the limitations imposed by my case, I will not be able to implement a radiator. I am just looking for a way to mount the radiator on the outside of the case. Cutting away one or two of the PCI slots should give me a wide enough gap to fit the waterblock through.
> 
> Just gotta figure out a way to close up the gap after.


Not sure waht you mean by that you won't be able to implement the radiator.
If your working on the PC on your specs. You have the Antec 182SE case. You should be able to do the process I stated, but I wouldn't I would just take a nibbler and cut away the steel that is between the who water tubing wholes you got in your case. Should be enough space to put through the pump with the hoses to the inside. A nibbler will make that job like a 5-10 minute job. Very easy to use and is very cheap like 10-15 bucks on ebay. It's what I used to modify my case to fit in the 920 inside an Antec 1200 V3 case.
If your interested in seeing how I did it:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1382324/fitting-the-antec-kuhler-h2o-920-in-antec-1200-case-guide


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> what you guy's think, is this better than antec's x)
> http://translate.google.fi/translate?hl=fi&sl=ru&tl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ferra.ru%2Fru%2Fcasecool%2Fs25886%2F&sandbox=1
> I just bought that, used but non used unit
> and it was *allmost free*


that looks really interesting, I must say


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> that looks really interesting, I must say


I can up some information from that when i get it

seller has deal, 50€ of BF4

i saw on another finnish website someone who selled BF4 10€/trade other genre game

well, i had winned two amd bronze code from raptr so i made deal with him, and get BF4 what i traded that cooler+ 10€ post's

and maby on next week, i would be able to get it

have to say, this was maby my lycky day









*Let's Cool some P4 cpu,s i have 2 *ok* mobo what i could use OC my 3Ghz/3.2Ghz HT P4 cpu's








462 stuff i have too









but i think that i use this on normal amd am3+/fm1/fm2+ sockets, should be easy to fit on those,

But yeah, it's very interesting unit


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Not sure waht you mean by that you won't be able to implement the radiator.
> If your working on the PC on your specs. You have the Antec 182SE case. You should be able to do the process I stated, but I wouldn't I would just take a nibbler and cut away the steel that is between the who water tubing wholes you got in your case. Should be enough space to put through the pump with the hoses to the inside. A nibbler will make that job like a 5-10 minute job. Very easy to use and is very cheap like 10-15 bucks on ebay. It's what I used to modify my case to fit in the 920 inside an Antec 1200 V3 case.
> If your interested in seeing how I did it:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1382324/fitting-the-antec-kuhler-h2o-920-in-antec-1200-case-guide


Right... you're quite correct of course. Not sure what I was thinking/ reading... when I read radiator for some reason I was thinking reservoir. My bad, I misread that.

The problem with the two pre-cut holes, is 1) the GPU card is in the way of the tubing and 2) the existing tubing is not long enough to go all the way from where the CPU is seated, through the holes and then back up towards where the radiator would be mounted on the outside. That is why I was thinking I'd rather cut the separator between the top two PCI slots to route the water block, and then place one PCI slot cover back into place leaving one open for the tubes.

Of course I could attempt modding and replacing the tubes - but I'm not sure I want to take that risk.

I like the idea you implemented in your case, ie, rather than moving the radiator outside the case, just moving it up and out of sight. I'll have to check if that is an option in my case when I get home, the 182 is smaller than the 1200 and there are fan controller switches at the top of the back of the case.


----------



## M3TAl

Not familiar with that case but from the pictures it looks like it would fit in the 5.25" bays. You would have to sacrifice any 5.25" devices though. Ran mine as intake inside the 5.25" bays in a CM Centurion 590 and CM 690 II Advanced. best temps that way too (for me at least).


----------



## 8bitG33k

Good suggestion! That does indeed provide me with another option, seeing as I rarely use my DVD/ CD RW to begin with and that way I wouldn't have a bulky radiator hanging on the outside of the case. I'll take some measurements and give that a shot. If not I can always go back to my original idea.


----------



## M3TAl

I used two shoe laces cut in half, so four in total, to secure the fans/rad. Put the laces through the holes of the case. See if I can find an old pic.

You may be able to think of something a little more elegant


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I used two shoe laces cut in half, so four in total, to secure the fans/rad. Put the laces through the holes of the case. See if I can find an old pic.
> 
> You may be able to think of something a little more elegant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Zipties will probably work out better....I have a fan mounted in my drive bays with zipties....


----------



## M3TAl

Only thing I don't like about zip ties is that they're one time use. Can't count how many times I've untied and moved the rad around.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Some amount of ghetto rigging is fine... after all, that is what my original idea boils down to. Just not keen on having to give up my drive, I use it rarely but I do use it to burn something from time to time.


----------



## M3TAl

Well there's always external drives but then again that's just an added cost you shouldn't have to deal with.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Well there's always external drives but then again that's just an added cost you shouldn't have to deal with.


You nailed it









I'll report back this weekend









EDIT: A thought that just occurred - when I eventually reinstall Windows, can that be done via an external drive? I would assume it is, since it can be done via USB also, correct?


----------



## M3TAl

If it's USB 2.0 then I think so. USB 3.0 gives me nothing but issues when installing Windows. USB flash sticks work too, just need a 4GB one.


----------



## Beech

Hi Gents,

Quick question. I got my 920 tucked away very nicely in my Antec 900 V1, looks real good. (I used one of the boxy HD bays to mount the rad, and put my SSD and HD in the remaining one).

Next step would be for me to fully, 100% fill the system with coolant. I think now it is not so, because of slight pump noise. In any case, leaving the factory it is near impossible to fill 100%.

My idea, submerge ther whole thing, then cutting the tubing one side in half, let it run, turn it all sides so air can escape, and seal the tubing (still submerged) again with a connector. Connector would be male both ends, the cut tubing 2 x female so to speak. I hope this is clear.

Has this been done at all? Thanks for your input.









Beech

EDIT: thanks for input/feedback. If i do it, I'll be sure to post here.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> You nailed it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll report back this weekend
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> EDIT: A thought that just occurred - when I eventually reinstall Windows, can that be done via an external drive? I would assume it is, since it can be done via USB also, correct?


I'd stick with using a flash drive....I'm not sure that the install will work with an external drive....


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beech*
> 
> Hi Gents,
> 
> Quick question. I got my 920 tucked away very nicely in my Antec 900 V1, looks real good. (I used one of the boxy HD bays to mount the rad, and put my SSD and HD in the remaining one).
> 
> Next step would be for me to fully, 100% fill the system with coolant. I think now it is not so, because of slight pump noise. In any case, leaving the factory it is near impossible to fill 100%.
> 
> My idea, submerge ther whole thing, then cutting the tubing one side in half, let it run, turn it all sides so air can escape, and seal the tubing (still submerged) again with a connector. Connector would be male both ends, the cut tubing 2 x female so to speak. I hope this is clear.
> 
> Has this been done at all? Thanks for your input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beech


I actually don't know if that has been done before, but if you do decide to do it make sure that your hard drive is outside of the case because coolant (or mineral oil) can gum up the motor inside the hard drive.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beech*
> 
> Hi Gents,
> 
> Quick question. I got my 920 tucked away very nicely in my Antec 900 V1, looks real good. (I used one of the boxy HD bays to mount the rad, and put my SSD and HD in the remaining one).
> 
> Next step would be for me to fully, 100% fill the system with coolant. I think now it is not so, because of slight pump noise. In any case, leaving the factory it is near impossible to fill 100%.
> 
> My idea, submerge ther whole thing, then cutting the tubing one side in half, let it run, turn it all sides so air can escape, and seal the tubing (still submerged) again with a connector. Connector would be male both ends, the cut tubing 2 x female so to speak. I hope this is clear.
> 
> Has this been done at all? Thanks for your input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beech


never seen it personally


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Beech*
> 
> Hi Gents,
> 
> Quick question. I got my 920 tucked away very nicely in my Antec 900 V1, looks real good. (I used one of the boxy HD bays to mount the rad, and put my SSD and HD in the remaining one).
> 
> Next step would be for me to fully, 100% fill the system with coolant. I think now it is not so, because of slight pump noise. In any case, leaving the factory it is near impossible to fill 100%.
> 
> My idea, submerge ther whole thing, then cutting the tubing one side in half, let it run, turn it all sides so air can escape, and seal the tubing (still submerged) again with a connector. Connector would be male both ends, the cut tubing 2 x female so to speak. I hope this is clear.
> 
> Has this been done at all? Thanks for your input.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Beech


Personally, I wouldn't cut the tubing in half....I'd go with removing the tubing from the barb at either the radiator or pump side....Cutting the tubing and adding a rigid connector to the middle of it would cause you to lose some flexibility that you might end up needing....


----------



## f0rteOC

After upgrading from an A6-3670K to an FX 8320, I have noticed much higher temps, and i'm wondering if my Kuhler 620 can keep up.
During steam downloads my CPU starts hitting 43C, and I can only run Prime95 for 6 minutes before my CPU hits 62C.
It is running at stock speeds and my ambient temperature is about 21.5C
When I installed my CPU, I used a small (pea-sized) dot of Arctic Silver 5, and I used the CPU cooler backplate that came with the motherboard (the Antec backplate was a pain to get off of my old motherboard and it had a bunch of adhesive residue on it). Also, I have two Thermaltake Thunderblade fans in push-pull.
Is the cooler working right or do I just need to upgrade?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> After upgrading from an A6-3670K to an FX 8320, I have noticed much higher temps, and i'm wondering if my Kuhler 620 can keep up.
> During steam downloads my CPU starts hitting 43C, and I can only run Prime95 for 6 minutes before my CPU hits 62C.
> It is running at stock speeds and my ambient temperature is about 21.5C
> When I installed my CPU, I used a small (pea-sized) dot of Arctic Silver 5, and I used the CPU cooler backplate that came with the motherboard (the Antec backplate was a pain to get off of my old motherboard and it had a bunch of adhesive residue on it). Also, I have two Thermaltake Thunderblade fans in push-pull.
> Is the cooler working right or do I just need to upgrade?


Something's up.. My Corsair H55 (More or less the same thing) keeps my Phenom II X4 965 (1.47V 3.9GHz) under 60C during Prime 95.


----------



## f0rteOC

Just want to add: the temps I mentioned are with both of my fans running at 100%, but before anyone questions the quality of those fans, they are rated at 2.41mm-H2O and 70.2 CFM


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> After upgrading from an A6-3670K to an FX 8320, I have noticed much higher temps, and i'm wondering if my Kuhler 620 can keep up.
> During steam downloads my CPU starts hitting 43C, and I can only run Prime95 for 6 minutes before my CPU hits 62C.
> It is running at stock speeds and my ambient temperature is about 21.5C
> When I installed my CPU, I used a small (pea-sized) dot of Arctic Silver 5, and I used the CPU cooler backplate that came with the motherboard (the Antec backplate was a pain to get off of my old motherboard and it had a bunch of adhesive residue on it). Also, I have two Thermaltake Thunderblade fans in push-pull.
> Is the cooler working right or do I just need to upgrade?


Personally, I think AS5 is your weak link - especially when you take the 200+ hours of curing time into account. I would recommend getting a better performing TIM, one that doesn't have a curing time (which is basically any other TIM on the market). My personal recommendations would be Shin-Etsu, or Gelid GC Extreme....


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Personally, I think AS5 is your weak link - especially when you take the 200+ hours of curing time into account. I would recommend getting a better performing TIM, one that doesn't have a curing time (which is basically any other TIM on the market). My personal recommendations would be Shin-Etsu, or Gelid GC Extreme....


I second this. COULD be a cause indeed.
I use MX4 personally.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Personally, I think AS5 is your weak link - especially when you take the 200+ hours of curing time into account. I would recommend getting a better performing TIM, one that doesn't have a curing time (which is basically any other TIM on the market). My personal recommendations would be Shin-Etsu, or Gelid GC Extreme....


I have some TIM that came with my old Hyper 212 Evo, would that work any better?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> I have some TIM that came with my old Hyper 212 Evo, would that work any better?


If I remember correctly, it's a decent thermal compound....Though, if you're looking for better performance from your current cooling solution, then it would be wise to buy a high performance thermal compound....


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> If I remember correctly, it's a decent thermal compound....Though, if you're looking for better performance from your current cooling solution, then it would be wise to buy a high performance thermal compound....


I heard that power cycling can help with the curing time, would my temps get much cooler (i.e. 5C-8C cooler) after the TIM cures?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> I heard that power cycling can help with the curing time, would my temps get much cooler (i.e. 5C-8C cooler) after the TIM cures?


AS5 has a *200 hour curing time*, during which you will need to regularly power cycle your PC in order to properly cure it....That is just not very reasonable, especially when you consider the fact that you'll only get about a 2-5*C difference in temps....You're better off going with a more modern thermal compound....

Shin-Etsu

Gelid GC Extreme

Prolimatech PK3

Or, if you have a Best Buy near you, this one even works very well: Antec Formula 7


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> After upgrading from an A6-3670K to an FX 8320, I have noticed much higher temps, and i'm wondering if my Kuhler 620 can keep up.
> During steam downloads my CPU starts hitting 43C, and I can only run Prime95 for 6 minutes before my CPU hits 62C.
> It is running at stock speeds and my ambient temperature is about 21.5C
> When I installed my CPU, I used a small (pea-sized) dot of Arctic Silver 5, and I used the CPU cooler backplate that came with the motherboard (the Antec backplate was a pain to get off of my old motherboard and it had a bunch of adhesive residue on it). Also, I have two Thermaltake Thunderblade fans in push-pull.
> Is the cooler working right or do I just need to upgrade?


Clocks and voltage? 8320 is a very hot chip when you add voltage. Stock it will be fine. Max OC probably of 4.4 GHz.


----------



## manching

what is the smallest itx case can i fit my antec kuhler 920 without modding?


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manching*
> 
> what is the smallest itx case can i fit my antec kuhler 920 without modding?


I'm thinking either the CM Elite 110 or Elite 120/130.


----------



## f0rteOC

Just want to add an update, after coming back to my computer (it was running for a few hours) the screen was black (yes, I did turn on my monitor







) and after I reset my computer my CPU temps were at 58C. Before I left my computer running I had no CPU intensive programs running and my fans were both running at 100% speed.
I am starting to wonder if this is more than just crappy thermal paste...







Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Clocks and voltage? 8320 is a very hot chip when you add voltage. Stock it will be fine. Max OC probably of 4.4 GHz.


Those were the temperatures at stock speeds and stock voltage.


----------



## M3TAl

Possible bad mount, bad paste job, or pump running semi-dry.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Possible bad mount, bad paste job, or pump running semi-dry.


What should I do if the pump is running semi-dry?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> What should I do if the pump is running semi-dry?


RMA it ideally bro


----------



## BWAS1000

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> What should I do if the pump is running semi-dry?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> RMA it ideally bro


You could also do the tubing change, and add a res if you want.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Thought I'd post an update with my mod, mounting the radiator on the outside of my Antec 182.

*Removed one of the separators for the PCI slots*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







*After putting the video card back in*


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

^Nice one!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> What should I do if the pump is running semi-dry?


Tilt the case around until the air bubble gets dislodged. But we're not even sure that's the problem. If the pump isn't making noises then it's running fine.

Are you sure you have the back plate on properly so the block makes enough contact with the CPU? What method are you using for the TIM?


----------



## f0rteOC

I installed my old Hyper 212 Evo (and stock CM thermal paste) and I am getting 28C idle temps, 30C while web browsing, and maxes out at 46C while running Prime95.
It's safe to say that there was something seriously wrong with my 620.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Tilt the case around until the air bubble gets dislodged. But we're not even sure that's the problem. If the pump isn't making noises then it's running fine.
> 
> Are you sure you have the back plate on properly so the block makes enough contact with the CPU? What method are you using for the TIM?


I had the mounting bracket screws tightened as tight as they could go, and I only used a pea-sized dot of thermal paste (I didn't spread it around at all).
Whenever I would turn on my computer I would hear a whoosh sound (best I can describe it







) coming from the pump. I assumed that it was the normal sound that the pump made when starting up, but now I'm not as sure...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I'm back to my Antec 290 (was on the 1250) - gotta love the 920 honestly - sop dam quiet (with the sp120 fans)
Currently folding with 100% load, max temp hasn't gone over 68c and I literally can't tell my PC is on - it's that quiet.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> I had the mounting bracket screws tightened as tight as they could go, and I only used a pea-sized dot of thermal paste (I didn't spread it around at all).
> Whenever I would turn on my computer I would hear a whoosh sound (best I can describe it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ) coming from the pump. I assumed that it was the normal sound that the pump made when starting up, but now I'm not as sure...


Does it make that noise constantly or only when powering on? It's normal when first powering on. How did the spread of the TIM look when removing the 620? Sometimes the backplate can move around and doesn't get seated in the holes properly which could affect mounting pressure.

A 620 would only be a marginal improvement over a 212 evo most likely anyways







.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does it make that noise constantly or only when powering on? It's normal when first powering on. How did the spread of the TIM look when removing the 620? Sometimes the backplate can move around and doesn't get seated in the holes properly which could affect mounting pressure.
> 
> A 620 would only be a marginal improvement over a 212 evo most likely anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


It was just when powering on, so I guess it was normal.









This was how the thermal paste was spread after I took off the 620.

This was how it looked on the waterblock.


----------



## M3TAl

Looks like one side got hardly any pressure at all. Poor spread. Make sure the backplate is positioned properly and tighten the block in an X pattern evenly.


----------



## manching

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I'm back to my Antec 290 (was on the 1250) - gotta love the 920 honestly - sop dam quiet (with the sp120 fans)
> Currently folding with 100% load, max temp hasn't gone over 68c and I literally can't tell my PC is on - it's that quiet.


what kind of sp120 are you using? quiet edition or PWM high performance? thanks. im really want to replace antec fans becase they are too loud at full speed.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manching*
> 
> what kind of sp120 are you using? quiet edition or PWM high performance? thanks. im really want to replace antec fans becase they are too loud at full speed.


quiet 3pin models.
They're directly connected to my motherboard.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *manching*
> 
> what kind of sp120 are you using? quiet edition or PWM high performance? thanks. im really want to replace antec fans becase they are too loud at full speed.


I had the High Performance Edition on my (20 for a ill while. I was testing a bunch of fans at the time. If the PWM version was out when I was fan shopping a year ago I would have kept them. They were great set of fans. At full speed they a lil loud. But with a controller they just great.


----------



## Recursion

Hi guys, I really need some help here. I bought an Antec Kühler 920 version 2 at e-bay. But some parts are missing and the kühler didn't work also. First off, I didn't know and I tried to contact the Antec support in Europe. I wanted to replace the missing parts and also a blade of a fan falls off when it was mounted and I asked about the strange noise from my kühler. The support guy told me to fill out the RMA and send him a proof-of-purchase. But then he tells me I need to buy(!) the missing parts and the fans and that I'm not legit buyer? Only the first buyer is legit? I send him my e-bay proof-of-purchase? Is there an Antec rep here? Please read. Thank you!


----------



## Papa Kev

Hi Recursion, I am not a Antec Rep. But the only way Antec will do anything for you. Is you have to have the original receipt. They warranty a new cooler for a year after the dated original receipt. A factory recondition one is warranted for 90 days after purchase. You must buy directly from Antec or a Antec authorized reseller such as newegg. On the Antec web site they have a list of authorized reseller. It looks like you got yours from a private individual on e-bay. You will need to get back in touch with the e-bay seller. See if he has the original receipt & I am not sure, but I would bet you also need the original box. If your product is not as described like a broken fan & missing parts. Get back in touch with the seller & get your $ back. If you still have problems get in touch with e-bay buyer protection program. Now with all that said. Most people find the Antec fans to be loud. So you might consider getting different fans anyway. Noise coming from the pump sounds like air trapped at the pump. At the beginning of this thread there are some post dealing with this issue. As far as missing parts go. A lot of people here mod. these coolers for there GPU's & use different types of bracket set ups. So you should be able to find missing parts hear. Good Luck.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Hi guys, I really need some help here. I bought an Antec Kühler 920 version 2 at e-bay. But some parts are missing and the kühler didn't work also. First off, I didn't know and I tried to contact the Antec support in Europe. I wanted to replace the missing parts and also a blade of a fan falls off when it was mounted and I asked about the strange noise from my kühler. The support guy told me to fill out the RMA and send him a proof-of-purchase. But then he tells me I need to buy(!) the missing parts and the fans and that I'm not legit buyer? Only the first buyer is legit? I send him my e-bay proof-of-purchase? Is there an Antec rep here? Please read. Thank you!


you bought from ebay, used probably and not from an authorised seller - yeah not a "legit buyer"
I HIGHLY SUGGEST you return that cooler to ebay seller via ebay's protection scheme for buyers and buy yourself a fully working one.

Why should antec give you the parts, when you might not have a valid warranty?
It's good that antec at east offered to RMA it for you.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papa Kev*
> 
> Hi Recursion, I am not a Antec Rep. But the only way Antec will do anything for you. Is you have to have the original receipt. They warranty a new cooler for a year after the dated original receipt. A factory recondition one is warranted for 90 days after purchase. You must buy directly from Antec or a Antec authorized reseller such as newegg. On the Antec web site they have a list of authorized reseller. It looks like you got yours from a private individual on e-bay. You will need to get back in touch with the e-bay seller. See if he has the original receipt & I am not sure, but I would bet you also need the original box. If your product is not as described like a broken fan & missing parts. Get back in touch with the seller & get your $ back. If you still have problems get in touch with e-bay buyer protection program. Now with all that said. Most people find the Antec fans to be loud. So you might consider getting different fans anyway. Noise coming from the pump sounds like air trapped at the pump. At the beginning of this thread there are some post dealing with this issue. As far as missing parts go. A lot of people here mod. these coolers for there GPU's & use different types of bracket set ups. So you should be able to find missing parts hear. Good Luck.


well said.
I think he might be talking about the mounts too


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Papa Kev*
> 
> Hi Recursion, I am not a Antec Rep. But the only way Antec will do anything for you. Is you have to have the original receipt. They warranty a new cooler for a year after the dated original receipt. A factory recondition one is warranted for 90 days after purchase. You must buy directly from Antec or a Antec authorized reseller such as newegg. On the Antec web site they have a list of authorized reseller. It looks like you got yours from a private individual on e-bay. You will need to get back in touch with the e-bay seller. See if he has the original receipt & I am not sure, but I would bet you also need the original box. If your product is not as described like a broken fan & missing parts. Get back in touch with the seller & get your $ back. If you still have problems get in touch with e-bay buyer protection program. Now with all that said. Most people find the Antec fans to be loud. So you might consider getting different fans anyway. Noise coming from the pump sounds like air trapped at the pump. At the beginning of this thread there are some post dealing with this issue. As far as missing parts go. A lot of people here mod. these coolers for there GPU's & use different types of bracket set ups. So you should be able to find missing parts hear. Good Luck.


Hi, I have never problems before. I just about some parts. I don't see why it's now a warranty thing? And also I bought this thing to mount on the gpu and it doesn't work!!! I wrote that to the support he is ignoring me? I find this very embarrasing.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> you bought from ebay, used probably and not from an authorised seller - yeah not a "legit buyer"
> I HIGHLY SUGGEST you return that cooler to ebay seller via ebay's protection scheme for buyers and buy yourself a fully working one.
> 
> Why should antec give you the parts, when you might not have a valid warranty?
> It's good that antec at east offered to RMA it for you.
> well said.
> I think he might be talking about the mounts too


Yes, when I mount it to my gpu the pump doesn't work. It's a guarantee thing. I find it embarrassing. I mailed them my proof-of-purchase, the RMA thing, and the serial-no. Then the support told I need to buy the parts and the fans and he teach me that when the replace my thing it would ruin the company!!!???? I told them I bought if off from E-Bay but I bought the rights not the thing?? The support tells my that I need to ask BEFORE what I buy from e-bay??? I don't understand a thing and it's just some Euro for them...???


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Hi, I have never problems before. I just about some parts. I don't see why it's now a warranty thing? And also I bought this thing to mount on the gpu and it doesn't work!!! I wrote that to the support he is ignoring me? I find this very embarrasing.


This sounds like you need to open a case on eBay, since the seller sent you a defective unit. Keep in mind that warranties don't normally transfer between people. So if Antec decides to honor the warranty, consider yourself lucky.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes, when I mount it to my gpu the pump doesn't work. It's a guarantee thing. I find it embarrassing. I mailed them my proof-of-purchase, the RMA thing, and the serial-no. Then the support told I need to buy the parts and the fans and he teach me that when the replace my thing it would ruin the company!!!???? I told them I bought if off from E-Bay but I bought the rights not the thing?? The support tells my that I need to ask BEFORE what I buy from e-bay??? I don't understand a thing and it's just some Euro for them...???


When you buy used items off of eBay, there is always a chance that they won't work properly - this is not the company's fault, and they are not obliged to replace the unit for you. Luckily, eBay has policies in place for situations like this. Go into your eBay account and open a case, and specify that the item is not working.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> This sounds like you need to open a case on eBay, since the seller sent you a defective unit. Keep in mind that warranties don't normally transfer between people. So if Antec decides to honor the warranty, consider yourself lucky.
> When you buy used items off of eBay, there is always a chance that they won't work properly - this is not the company's fault, and they are not obliged to replace the unit for you. Luckily, eBay has policies in place for situations like this. Go into your eBay account and open a case, and specify that the item is not working.


I bought the kühler sometimes ago,I can't do that.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Hi guys, I really need some help here. I bought an Antec Kühler 920 version 2 at e-bay. But some parts are missing and the kühler didn't work also. First off, I didn't know and I tried to contact the Antec support in Europe. I wanted to replace the missing parts and also a blade of a fan falls off when it was mounted and I asked about the strange noise from my kühler. The support guy told me to fill out the RMA and send him a proof-of-purchase. But then he tells me I need to buy(!) the missing parts and the fans and that I'm not legit buyer? Only the first buyer is legit? I send him my e-bay proof-of-purchase? Is there an Antec rep here? Please read. Thank you!


What the others said... sellers on eBay are not typically authorized resellers. Authorized by Antec that is, as selling the product is perfectly legal of course. It is a testament to Antec's reputation of having excellent customer service, that they are willing to work with you to begin with.

In a nutshell, your options are:

1) RMA the unit through Antec if possible (it's not quite clear from what you write if Antec is honoring the warranty or not, it sounds like Antec may be offering you to purchase the non working parts? In my personal experience Antec has always been most generous when it comes honoring warranties).

2) mod the unit in regards to the missing parts (of course if the pump isn't working that is probably not an option).

3) Contact the seller on eBay and/ or file a dispute to resolve the issue directly with the seller. Is seems this may be your best option.

EDIT:
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I bought the kühler sometimes ago, can't do that.


Sounds like 3. is not an option then and you may be stuck with a defective unit. In the future make sure you test anything you purchase on eBay immediately as to avoid this type of issue. In fact this is something I recommend in general, not just on eBay. Even if you don't plan to use something immediately at least make sure you test the purchase within the timeframe you have for returns.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> What the others said... sellers on eBay are not typically authorized resellers. Authorized by Antec that is, as selling the product is perfectly legal of course. It is a testament to Antec's reputation of having excellent customer service, that they are willing to work with you to begin with.
> 
> In a nutshell, your options are:
> 
> 1) RMA the unit through Antec if possible (it's not quite clear from what you write if Antec is honoring the warranty or not, it sounds like Antec may be offering you to purchase the non working parts? In my personal experience Antec has always been most generous when it comes honoring warranties).
> 
> 2) mod the unit in regards to the missing parts (of course if the pump isn't working that is probably not an option).
> 
> 3) Contact the seller on eBay and/ or file a dispute to resolve the issue directly with the seller. Is seems this may be your best option.
> 
> EDIT:
> Sounds like 3. is not an option then and you may be stuck with a defective unit. In the future make sure you test anything you purchase on eBay immediately as to avoid this type of issue. In fact this is something I recommend in general, not just on eBay. Even if you don't plan to use something immediately at least make sure you test the purchase within the timeframe you have for returns.


Yeah, strange thing. I can live with the other thing (or not) but the pump doesn't work when it's mounted to the gpu. How does it work exactly? Do you guys just mount the waterblock to the gpu? E-Bay is really a CONN!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes, when I mount it to my gpu the pump doesn't work. It's a guarantee thing. I find it embarrassing. I mailed them my proof-of-purchase, the RMA thing, and the serial-no. Then the support told I need to buy the parts and the fans and he teach me that when the replace my thing it would ruin the company!!!???? I told them I bought if off from E-Bay but I bought the rights not the thing?? The support tells my that I need to ask BEFORE what I buy from e-bay??? I don't understand a thing and it's just some Euro for them...???


Dude- nothing to do with Antec.
It's to do with the PRIVATE SELLER ON EBAY that sold youa faulty product.

You don't have the same "contract" with antec as you would if u bought it NEW from an authorised seller (say amazon).
Antec doesn't have to fulfil your request at all - they can reject you (MANY MANY other companies do)
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I bought the kühler sometimes ago,I can't do that.


why not?
You bought it some time ago and now it went faulty? What?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> What the others said... sellers on eBay are not typically authorized resellers. Authorized by Antec that is, as selling the product is perfectly legal of course. It is a testament to Antec's reputation of having excellent customer service, that they are willing to work with you to begin with.
> 
> In a nutshell, your options are:
> 
> 1) RMA the unit through Antec if possible (it's not quite clear from what you write if Antec is honoring the warranty or not, it sounds like Antec may be offering you to purchase the non working parts? In my personal experience Antec has always been most generous when it comes honoring warranties).
> 
> 2) mod the unit in regards to the missing parts (of course if the pump isn't working that is probably not an option).
> 
> 3) Contact the seller on eBay and/ or file a dispute to resolve the issue directly with the seller. Is seems this may be your best option.
> 
> EDIT:
> Sounds like 3. is not an option then and you may be stuck with a defective unit. In the future make sure you test anything you purchase on eBay immediately as to avoid this type of issue. In fact this is something I recommend in general, not just on eBay. Even if you don't plan to use something immediately at least make sure you test the purchase within the timeframe you have for returns.


^well said


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yeah, strange thing. I can live with the other thing (or not) but the pump doesn't work when it's mounted to the gpu. How does it work exactly? Do you guys just mount the waterblock to the gpu? E-Bay is really a CONN!


First off, it's the seller that gave you a potentially defective unit, not eBay....Ebay has policies in place to protect their buyers in situations like this, you just have to let them know. They'll offer the seller a chance to replace the item, and worst case scenario, they can get you a refund.

When you are connecting the pump, are you plugging the pump's power cable into the CPU fan header on your motherboard?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> First off, it's the seller that gave you a potentially defective unit, not eBay....Ebay has policies in place to protect their buyers in situations like this, you just have to let them know. They'll offer the seller a chance to replace the item, and worst case scenario, they can get you a refund.
> 
> When you are connecting the pump, are you plugging the pump's power cable into the CPU fan header on your motherboard?


On the cpu the pump is working. The pump cools the cpu. No problem. But when I mount it on my gpu it makes horrible noise and my gpu is getting very hot and the speed of pump is something like 8000 rpm in the software. It doesn't work. I tested it. I was lucky I ask for RMA the missing parts sometimes ago because it took 1-2 months from ANTEC to answer me. Now they told me I need to buy the missing parts, the broken fan and what not?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yeah, strange thing. I can live with the other thing (or not) but the pump doesn't work when it's mounted to the gpu. How does it work exactly? Do you guys just mount the waterblock to the gpu? E-Bay is really a CONN!


Wait... the pump works when it is _not_ mounted but when you mount it, it stops working?

As for eBay being a con... it is a marketplace from where sellers of dubious character _may_ operate. Hence the eBay buyer guarantee. It is up to the user though to operate within these guidelines and up to the buyer to make sure they do everything on their end to make sure they are covered. Personally I don't use eBay much - only for very specific purchases when I feel saving a substantial amount of money is worth the tradeoff risk of something potentially going wrong.


----------



## 8bitG33k

OK... I think I'm beginning to see a pattern...

1) How long have you owned the Kuhler?

2) How long have you had it mounted to your CPU where it worked just fine? (as seen in your picture)

3) After mounting it to your GPU and it didn't work, did you mount it back on the CPU where it works fine again? If yes, how often have you swapped it back and forth?

4) To clarify: it works when it is mounted to the CPU, but does not work when it is mounted to your GPU? This may be due to the fact that airbubbles get trapped inside the pump.

It would seem that if it works fine on your CPU it is not a defective unit. So the problem arises when you mount it to the GPU.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> OK... I think I'm beginning to see a pattern...
> 
> 1) How long have you owned the Kuhler?
> 
> 2) How long have you had it mounted to your CPU where it worked just fine? (as seen in your picture)
> 
> 3) After mounting it to your GPU and it didn't work, did you mount it back on the CPU where it works fine again? If yes, how often have you swapped it back and forth?
> 
> 4) To clarify: it works when it is mounted to the CPU, but does not work when it is mounted to your GPU? This may be due to the fact that airbubbles get trapped inside the pump.
> 
> It would seem that if it works fine on your CPU it is not a defective unit. So the problem arises when you mount it to the GPU.


I didn't tried it again but I think you get me. They accuse me I'm liar but in fact I'm unable to sell?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I didn't tried it again but I think you get me. They accuse me I'm liar but in fact I'm unable to sell?


answer his questions please...we can't help you here, with the info you've given us.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> answer his questions please...we can't help you here, with the info you've given us.


Why is this? I didn't tried it again but I'm 100% sure it's working on the cpu but not on the gpu. I read everywhere you guys used it also on the gpu? To me it's a guarantee thing. I have told the support it but the insist I'm not the original buyer. I told them the serial-no and so on. Everything is legit. What else should I do? If they don't want to replace it for free then I think they don't trust me or there products. What is the pattern there?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Why is this? I didn't tried it again but I'm 100% sure it's working on the cpu but not on the gpu. I read everywhere you guys used it also on the gpu? To me it's a guarantee thing. I have told the support it but the insist I'm not the original buyer. I told them the serial-no and so on. Everything is legit. What else should I do? If they don't want to replace it for free then I think they don't trust me or there products. What is the pattern there?


So we can assert the unit worked fine for x amount of time while it was used on the CPU. I would like to know how long it was mounted to the CPU. Where there already missing parts then? If yes, how did you mount it to the CPU?

After unmounting it from the CPU and mounting it on the GPU where it suddenly stopped working, have you tried running it without being mounted?

How long have you owned the unit? Did you buy it used or new on ebay? How long did the previous owner have the unit, as this factors into the total time Antec would grant for warranty.

What is your goal? a) get help on how to get Antec to agree to RMA this for you, or b) troubleshoot the unit to get it working again? As for a) I think you already have all the info you require, you just need to get yourself to see the case as it is, rather than how you think it should be.

As for b) my guess is air bubbles. Can't remember how to remove those but I'm sure someone here can, something about shaking the unit while it is running


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Why is this? I didn't tried it again but I'm 100% sure it's working on the cpu but not on the gpu. I read everywhere you guys used it also on the gpu? To me it's a guarantee thing. I have told the support it but the insist I'm not the original buyer. I told them the serial-no and so on. Everything is legit. What else should I do? If they don't want to replace it for free then I think they don't trust me or there products. What is the pattern there?


pattern is a little like your wire management in your picture.
Bit all over the place.

Right now all I know from you is:
1. You bought it off ebay
2. It doesn't work
3. You're complaining
4. Antec will replace it for you (even though they don't have to)
5. You're pissed off at having to buy extra parts when your purchase didn't even come with it in the first place NOR WAS A BRAND NEW purchase.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Why is this? I didn't tried it again but I'm 100% sure it's working on the cpu but not on the gpu. I read everywhere you guys used it also on the gpu? To me it's a guarantee thing. I have told the support it but the insist I'm not the original buyer. I told them the serial-no and so on. Everything is legit. What else should I do? If they don't want to replace it for free then I think they don't trust me or there products. What is the pattern there?
> 
> 
> 
> So we can assert the unit worked fine for x amount of time while it was used on the CPU. I would like to know how long it was mounted to the CPU. Where there already missing parts then? If yes, how did you mount it to the CPU?
> 
> After unmounting it from the CPU and mounting it on the GPU where it suddenly stopped working, have you tried running it without being mounted?
> 
> How long have you owned the unit? Did you buy it used or new on ebay? How long did the previous owner have the unit, as this factors into the total time Antec would grant for warranty.
> 
> What is your goal? a) get help on how to get Antec to agree to RMA this for you, or b) troubleshoot the unit to get it working again? As for a) I think you already have all the info you require, you just need to get yourself to see the case as it is, rather than how you think it should be.
> 
> As for b) my guess is air bubbles. Can't remember how to remove those but I'm sure someone here can, something about shaking the unit while it is running
Click to expand...

Maybe I'm not clear enough but I feel like an idiot. All this question. I would pm you the internals because I already posted all the facts. I work with pc and it. I can read manual etc. But I'm not a doctor or lawyer. I think I can rule out a and b. I thought it help me but I also wrote to another support. Maybe they show some love?!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> pattern is a little like your wire management in your picture.
> Bit all over the place.
> 
> Right now all I know from you is:
> 1. You bought it off ebay
> 2. It doesn't work
> 3. You're complaining
> 4. Antec will replace it for you (even though they don't have to)
> 5. You're pissed off at having to buy extra parts when your purchase didn't even come with it in the first place NOR WAS A BRAND NEW purchase.


Oh, I'm not an overclocker? I'm not an ego-trip. I wrote I can't sell things. I have the right to complain it doesn't mean I'm pissed off. Also it doesn't work on the GPU. That's a serious thing to me.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Maybe I'm not clear enough but I feel like an idiot. All this question. I would pm you the internals because I already posted all the facts. I work with pc and it. I can read manual etc. But I'm not a doctor or lawyer. I think I can rule out a and b. I thought it help me but I also wrote to another support. Maybe they show some love?!


I'm with TD 100%. I thought the same thing in regards to the wire management.

The fact that I am asking questions is either because I am too stupid to understand or because your statements are confusing. I'll leave it up to you to decide which.

As for warranty from Antec, they are perfectly within their rights to refuse any warranty. Just because you don't agree/ don't understand the process and forces at work here, doesn't mean you are objectively being reasonable in your expectations. You can expect us to be honest with you in telling you what you can expect, even if that is not what you want to hear.

As for troubleshooting the unit - you can certainly expect help from us, but other than 'the unit not working' and 'missing parts' you are still being vague in what you have attempted so far. I gave you a pointer, airbubbles. Shake the radiator and see if it goes away.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Oh, I'm not an overclocker? I'm not an ego-trip. I wrote I can't sell things. I have the right to complain it doesn't mean I'm pissed off. Also it doesn't work on the GPU. That's a serious thing to me.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I'm with TD 100%. I thought the same thing in regards to the wire management.
> 
> The fact that I am asking questions is either because I am too stupid to understand or because your statements are confusing. I'll leave it up to you to decide which.
> 
> As for warranty from Antec, they are perfectly within their rights to refuse any warranty. Just because you don't agree/ don't understand the process and forces at work here, doesn't mean you are objectively being reasonable in your expectations. You can expect us to be honest with you in telling you what you can expect, even if that is not what you want to hear.
> 
> As for troubleshooting the unit - you can certainly expect help from us, but other than 'the unit not working' and 'missing parts' you are still being vague in what you have attempted so far. I gave you a pointer, airbubbles. Shake the radiator and see if it goes away.


I won't be commenting or helping any further on this.
Good luck


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Maybe I'm not clear enough but I feel like an idiot. All this question. I would pm you the internals because I already posted all the facts. I work with pc and it. I can read manual etc. But I'm not a doctor or lawyer. I think I can rule out a and b. I thought it help me but I also wrote to another support. Maybe they show some love?!
> 
> 
> 
> I'm with TD 100%. I thought the same thing in regards to the wire management.
> 
> The fact that I am asking questions is either because I am too stupid to understand or because your statements are confusing. I'll leave it up to you to decide which.
> 
> As for warranty from Antec, they are perfectly within their rights to refuse any warranty. Just because you don't agree/ don't understand the process and forces at work here, doesn't mean you are objectively being reasonable in your expectations. You can expect us to be honest with you in telling you what you can expect, even if that is not what you want to hear.
> 
> As for troubleshooting the unit - you can certainly expect help from us, but other than 'the unit not working' and 'missing parts' you are still being vague in what you have attempted so far. I gave you a pointer, airbubbles. Shake the radiator and see if it goes away.
Click to expand...

I'm not sure what about my wire management? I think creative ppl have a bit chaos but I'm also very technical. The thing is I can't sell or take care about my privacy. That's why I ask you to pm me. I have the right to be careful with my words and with the internet.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I'm not sure what about my wire management? I think creative ppl have a bit chaos but I'm also very technical. The thing is I can't sell or take care about my privacy. That's why I ask you to pm me. I have the right to be careful with my words and with the internet.


Good luck my friend, hope it all works out for you


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Good luck my friend, hope it all works out for you


Side note:
"Location: C:\Windows"

Pure genius mate







!


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Oh, I'm not an overclocker? I'm not an ego-trip. I wrote I can't sell things. I have the right to complain it doesn't mean I'm pissed off. Also it doesn't work on the GPU. That's a serious thing to me.


So you're mounting this on top of your GPU?? Please do some research because the mounting kit won't work on GPU, you'll have to do a custom mount or someone on this forum sells a mounting kit for a GPU.

I'll see if I can help you with your issue but I can't guarantee if our Tech Support in Europe can provide you help. The parts are mainly cheap, if you're willing to purchase, I swear they won't cost an arm or a leg to buy one.

Goodluck


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Side note:
> "Location: C:\Windows"
> 
> Pure genius mate
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> !


Been living there since XP was first released









And kudos to Mr Antec rep! Once again Antec proves what customer satisfaction means to them, at least in the US. Seriously, this is why I love Antec products. That said, I hope you're not setting yourself up in this particular case.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Been living there since XP was first released
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> And kudos to Mr Antec rep! Once again Antec proves what customer satisfaction means to them, at least in the US. Seriously, this is why I love Antec products. That said, I hope you're not setting yourself up in this particular case.


haha nice


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> On the cpu the pump is working. The pump cools the cpu. No problem. But when I mount it on my gpu it makes horrible noise and my gpu is getting very hot and the speed of pump is something like 8000 rpm in the software. It doesn't work. I tested it. I was lucky I ask for RMA the missing parts sometimes ago because it took 1-2 months from ANTEC to answer me. Now they told me I need to buy the missing parts, the broken fan and what not?


That is sort of normal... Mine did the same thing, multiple times because I take my pc apart A LOT and have my case sideways flat on a table many times. Why is it happening? AIR BUBBLE.

A big fat air bubble is trapped in the pump. How do you fix it? You tilt the PC case or Kuhler around like a mad man until the bubble gets dislodged. Sometimes it's just a matter of tilting it just the right way.


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Does it make that noise constantly or only when powering on? It's normal when first powering on. How did the spread of the TIM look when removing the 620? Sometimes the backplate can move around and doesn't get seated in the holes properly which could affect mounting pressure.
> 
> A 620 would only be a marginal improvement over a 212 evo most likely anyways
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .


Just an update, I plugged in the pump to a fan header on my motherboard, and when I turned on the PC the pump started making a slight whirring/clicking sound. If it is defective and I need to RMA it, can I still do the RMA without a receipt? I threw my receipt away after a couple months of working properly.


----------



## M3TAl

Typically Antec needs the proof of purchase.


----------



## sylock232

I'm about to buy the Corsair SP120 Quiet fans, but I'm wondering, are they the same as the Antec fans? Like plug and go?
The Antec stock fans are 4 pins right?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> On the cpu the pump is working. The pump cools the cpu. No problem. But when I mount it on my gpu it makes horrible noise and my gpu is getting very hot and the speed of pump is something like 8000 rpm in the software. It doesn't work. I tested it. I was lucky I ask for RMA the missing parts sometimes ago because it took 1-2 months from ANTEC to answer me. Now they told me I need to buy the missing parts, the broken fan and what not?
> 
> 
> 
> That is sort of normal... Mine did the same thing, multiple times because I take my pc apart A LOT and have my case sideways flat on a table many times. Why is it happening? AIR BUBBLE.
> 
> A big fat air bubble is trapped in the pump. How do you fix it? You tilt the PC case or Kuhler around like a mad man until the bubble gets dislodged. Sometimes it's just a matter of tilting it just the right way.
Click to expand...

After hours of trying I get it working. But the temps aren't so great. You was right there was air bubbles and I tilt the case and so on. At leadt there isn't any noise and the pump seems to work (2800rpm). But my temps is horrible with furmark @ full hd it's quickly 100°C and more. My idle temp is around 46°C. Is this real? I have seen better temps! My old air cooler was better and cheaper. Any ideas? Can it be the device is broken?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *sylock232*
> 
> I'm about to buy the Corsair SP120 Quiet fans, but I'm wondering, are they the same as the Antec fans? Like plug and go?
> The Antec stock fans are 4 pins right?


Depends which SP120s you get - the older ones were 3pin.
The newer SPs are 4pin.

If they are 4pin - plug and go
If they are 3 pin - go via motherboard to plug them in.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> After hours of trying I get it working. But the temps aren't so great. You was right there was air bubbles and I tilt the case and so on. At leadt there isn't any noise and the pump seems to work (2800rpm). But my temps is horrible with furmark @ full hd it's quickly 100°C and more. My idle temp is around 46°C. Is this real? I have seen better temps! My old air cooler was better and cheaper. Any ideas? Can it be the device is broken?


It sounds more like the cooler isn't properly seated....


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> After hours of trying I get it working. But the temps aren't so great. You was right there was air bubbles and I tilt the case and so on. At leadt there isn't any noise and the pump seems to work (2800rpm). But my temps is horrible with furmark @ full hd it's quickly 100°C and more. My idle temp is around 46°C. Is this real? I have seen better temps! My old air cooler was better and cheaper. Any ideas? Can it be the device is broken?
> 
> 
> 
> It sounds more like the cooler isn't properly seated....
Click to expand...

I have a 2x crossfire hd 6950 and on my second gpu I have the Scythe Musashi cooler with 2x 120mm fan instead of the originals 92mm fans and the idle temps are the same. How can I seat it better?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *f0rteOC*
> 
> Just an update, I plugged in the pump to a fan header on my motherboard, and when I turned on the PC the pump started making a slight whirring/clicking sound. If it is defective and I need to RMA it, can I still do the RMA without a receipt? I threw my receipt away after a couple months of working properly.


Most of the time, we need a proof of purchase. There are times we can make exemptions


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I have a 2x crossfire hd 6950 and on my second gpu I have the Scythe Musashi cooler with 2x 120mm fan instead of the originals 92mm fans and the idle temps are the same. How can I seat it better?


I'm talking about how the cooler is mounted to the GPU....If your temps are higher, then there's a chance that its not making proper contact with the GPU....The size of the fans is irrelevant if the cooling solution isn't making proper contact with the GPU....


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> After hours of trying I get it working. But the temps aren't so great. You was right there was air bubbles and I tilt the case and so on. At leadt there isn't any noise and the pump seems to work (2800rpm). But my temps is horrible with furmark @ full hd it's quickly 100°C and more. My idle temp is around 46°C. Is this real? I have seen better temps! My old air cooler was better and cheaper. Any ideas? Can it be the device is broken?


What bracket did you use to mount the Kuhler to your GPU? We need more details. What TIM was used and how was it applied?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> What bracket did you use to mount the Kuhler to your GPU? We need more details. What TIM was used and how was it applied?


Very true, I've read about some installs that need a copper (or whatever material) shim in order for the cooling plate to make proper contact....When you remove the pump from the GPU, is the thermal compound spread completely?

Details would help out, pictures would be better - details and pictures should be perfect....


----------



## M3TAl

And yes, depending on what GPU it is, a shim might be required. A 7950/7970 require shims.

He's got 6950's. I'll have to look at some pics of the cooler removed.

Edit: looks almost identical to my 7870 XT. The die rises above the surrounding metal square by maybe 0.2-0.5mm... If the cold plate is really concave then a shim might be required.

When I had a Kuhler 620 on mine a shim wasn't needed though. Neither is one required with my current EK VGA Surpemacy.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> And yes, depending on what GPU it is, a shim might be required. A 7950/7970 require shims.
> 
> He's got 6950's. I'll have to look at some pics of the cooler removed.
> 
> Edit: looks almost identical to my 7870 XT. The die rises above the surrounding metal square by maybe 0.2-0.5mm... If the cold plate is really concave then a shim might be required.
> 
> When I had a Kuhler 620 on mine a shim wasn't needed though. Neither is one required with my current EK VGA Surpemacy.


I have tried with a shim from my other cooler to no avail. I have Arctic MX-3 and Coollaboratory Liquid Metall Gpu Pad both on the GPU. The problem is the mounting I don't have the custom brackets. I use pipe cleaner to fix the waterblock.


----------



## M3TAl

Liquid metal and MX-3 at same time? That's not right. Also you should use a bracket that's known to work.

Such as Richie's GPU COOL bracket. He ships worldwide and it comes with high quality shims in different thicknesses.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Liquid metal and MX-3 at same time? That's not right. Also you should use a bracket that's known to work.
> 
> Such as Richie's GPU COOL bracket. He ships worldwide and it comes with high quality shims in different thicknesses.


Or this: http://keplerdynamics.com/sigmacool/radeonmkii


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Or this: http://keplerdynamics.com/sigmacool/radeonmkii


Another option is zip ties, I used them in mine for months with no issue, but u gotta use them right to get enough pressure on the block. If your using what I think u are when u say pipe cleaners, I would guess your heat issue is because you don't have the block held tight enough to the core.

I know the AMD cards, because your seating the block directly on the die, you need to be careful to not overtighten or the die can crack when you push the card. I would check out "the red mod" thread for more info on using zip ties if u wanna go that route. Otherwise both the other mounts mentioned above work very well.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterwarrior*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Or this: http://keplerdynamics.com/sigmacool/radeonmkii
> 
> 
> 
> Another option is zip ties, I used them in mine for months with no issue, but u gotta use them right to get enough pressure on the block. If your using what I think u are when u say pipe cleaners, I would guess your heat issue is because you don't have the block held tight enough to the core.
> 
> I know the AMD cards, because your seating the block directly on the die, you need to be careful to not overtighten or the die can crack when you push the card. I would check out "the red mod" thread for more info on using zip ties if u wanna go that route. Otherwise both the other mounts mentioned above work very well.
Click to expand...

Good news is my temps is dropping in idle 36°C and load is 60°C - 100°C with furmark @ 640x400 in window and full hd. Is a bit disappointing? Bad news I use the zip method but with my pipe cleaners and I also use some screws and a metal clip like in the richies cool mod. Can I do better with full hd? +100°C @ full hd seems to be very high? Maybe my fans aren't so good. I think I can live with this. There is more room to overclock. Thank you for reading and helping!!!


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Good news is my temps is dropping in idle 36°C and load is 60°C - 100°C with furmark @ 640x400 in window and full hd. Is a bit disappointing? Bad news I use the zip method but with my pipe cleaners and I also use some screws and a metal clip like in the richies cool mod. Can I do better with full hd? +100°C @ full hd seems to be very high? Maybe my fans aren't so good. I think I can live with this. There is more room to overclock. Thank you for reading and helping!!!


Your idle temp is pretty good, but that load temp, pushing 100C is still very high, I've seen most people getting 50s-70s depending on the card for their load temps with overclock and all. hmmm.....not sure at this point what could be causing it, i'll let you know if I have any more ideas, just be careful when pushing the card, 100C is pretty high.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterwarrior*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Good news is my temps is dropping in idle 36°C and load is 60°C - 100°C with furmark @ 640x400 in window and full hd. Is a bit disappointing? Bad news I use the zip method but with my pipe cleaners and I also use some screws and a metal clip like in the richies cool mod. Can I do better with full hd? +100°C @ full hd seems to be very high? Maybe my fans aren't so good. I think I can live with this. There is more room to overclock. Thank you for reading and helping!!!
> 
> 
> 
> Your idle temp is pretty good, but that load temp, pushing 100C is still very high, I've seen most people getting 50s-70s depending on the card for their load temps with overclock and all. hmmm.....not sure at this point what could be causing it, i'll let you know if I have any more ideas, just be careful when pushing the card, 100C is pretty high.
Click to expand...

I think I was wrong. I have a crossfire gpu group and I only have 1x Antec cooler. I need a 2nd cooler to be sure. The zip-method seems to work. Good idea!


----------



## M3TAl

Using an AIO your load temp should never be over 60C when ambient is around 28-29C. My max load was around 58-60 (was a bad mount, never re-mounted) with ~29C ambient. That's on a 7870 XT at 1125 MHz and ~1.23V. Normally (say BF3) loads were 50-55C, again my mount and TIM application wasn't very good.

70-100C load temps... Something is still very wrong. Whatever you're doing it's not working. You should rethink this and find something that works. Oh and again, never use a liquid metal TIM with MX-3 at same time.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Using an AIO your load temp should never be over 60C when ambient is around 28-29C. My max load was around 58-60 (was a bad mount, never re-mounted) with ~29C ambient. That's on a 7870 XT at 1125 MHz and ~1.23V. Normally (say BF3) loads were 50-55C, again my mount and TIM application wasn't very good.
> 
> 70-100C load temps... Something is still very wrong. Whatever you're doing it's not working. You should rethink this and find something that works. Oh and again, never use a liquid metal TIM with MX-3 at same time.


No. You didn't read my answer. The temp with furmark at full hd is max 62°C. This is great. However my crossfire is +100°C. BTW. mixing liquid metal and mx-3 doesn't seems very bad. The temps isn't so bad. I can live with that.


----------



## M3TAl

I did read your post, it's just very difficult to understand. What do you mean your crossfire is +100C?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I did read your post, it's just very difficult to understand. What do you mean your crossfire is +100C?


It's my 2nd card with Scythe Musashi approaching +100°C. I have difficult time to read furmark,gpu-z and afterburner. It seems to me I panicked for no reason. Anyway I learned about the zip mode (and liquid metal).


----------



## M3TAl

The bottom card almost always runs cooler than the top card; assuming they're both on air coolers. And your top card is cooled by an AIO... All the heat comes out of the radiator so the bottom card shouldn't be getting any heat from the top card.

Something still isn't right. Oh and I don't trust furmark. Don't see the point in it when it loads a card way more than any game ever will. Unigine Valley gives temps that represent true load in games.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The bottom card almost always runs cooler than the top card; assuming they're both on air coolers. And your top card is cooled by an AIO... All the heat comes out of the radiator so the bottom card shouldn't be getting any heat from the top card.
> 
> Something still isn't right. Oh and I don't trust furmark. Don't see the point in it when it loads a card way more than any game ever will. Unigine Valley gives temps that represent true load in games.


I never told you where I mounted the AIO!? Furmark is a great benchmark. It's the only I really trust. Ever been to Monte Carlo?


----------



## 8bitG33k

*eating popcorn*


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> *eating popcorn*


Joining you on that one, enjoying the show?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> *eating popcorn*


In fact he is right but there is a reason why I have difficult to read gpu-z,afterburner and furmark. The other problem is my 2nd gpu isn't capable of the shader mod. It slows down my crossfire but I can't change it. Bad luck.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> *eating popcorn*
> 
> 
> 
> Joining you on that one, enjoying the show?
Click to expand...

Sometimes it's useful to think. Hope you don't gain weight.


----------



## spdaimon

Hi all! New to the group. I just picked up a 920 that I am going to use on a Core 2 Quad. I own a H50 and H80 on a Sandy and Haswell respectively. It should be interesting to see how it holds up. I think the Sandy, an i7, with a TDP of 95W is probably the closest comparison to the C2Q, which i believe also has 95W TDP. Its a Q9550, which I am hoping to push to 3.4Ghz. I modded the H50 for push-pull and it holds the i7 around 20C with an overclock of 4.5Ghz in the HAF932 case. I'll have to check the exact numbers since I am not in front of it.
Skimming though some of the posts, it looks like the best mounting is with the tubes at the top and the fans blowing in, right?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Hi all! New to the group. I just picked up a 920 that I am going to use on a Core 2 Quad. I own a H50 and H80 on a Sandy and Haswell respectively. It should be interesting to see how it holds up. I think the Sandy, an i7, with a TDP of 95W is probably the closest comparison to the C2Q, which i believe also has 95W TDP. Its a Q9550, which I am hoping to push to 3.4Ghz. I modded the H50 for push-pull and it holds the i7 around 20C with an overclock of 4.5Ghz in the HAF932 case. I'll have to check the exact numbers since I am not in front of it.
> Skimming though some of the posts, it looks like the best mounting is with the tubes at the top and the fans blowing in, right?


I would suggest its better to have the hoses down to avoid air bubbles. Also depends on the air flow of your case, for the HAF932, are your top fans set to exhaust? you can have the fans blowing in if this is your setup.


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> I would suggest its better to have the hoses down to avoid air bubbles. Also depends on the air flow of your case, for the HAF932, are your top fans set to exhaust? you can have the fans blowing in if this is your setup.


Yeah, I am actually using an Antec Three Hundred for this one, but the fan is set to blow out at the top.


----------



## spdaimon

Seeing the recent talk about mounting the 620 to a video card, I am kind of curious what you do to cool the memory or VRMs?


----------



## spdaimon

Sorry one more question...I'm trying to mount it to my 775 socket CPU, and I got the backplate in, but the retention ring does not fit. There is only options for 1156/1155 or 1366/2011 but no 775 mounting instructions? It seems that I need an additional part. Correct?


----------



## spdaimon

With a little flash of brillance, I just swapped the retention ring and screws from my H80 with the ring from the 920, after I dug out the skt 775 adapters. I replaced the fans with Quiet SP120s like Totally Dubbed suggested. I think I goofed and put the fans pushing out...but at least they aren't pushing against each other.








My highest temp at stock speed at full load is 52C, which is what I was getting with the noisy Cooler Master Seidon 120M. I don't recommend buying that one unless you like the sound of a rattling pump every 5 to 10 minutes. I tried everything, but now returning it. That's a story for another thread.
I have the software set to extreme, and the loudest thing in my system is the hard drive! I have 3 Antec 3-speeds in the case also. Fan 1 & 2 are intakes at the top and side, while Fan #3 the top exhaust.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> With a little flash of brillance, I just swapped the retention ring and screws from my H80 with the ring from the 920, after I dug out the skt 775 adapters. I replaced the fans with Quiet SP120s like Totally Dubbed suggested. I think I goofed and put the fans pushing out...but at least they aren't pushing against each other.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My highest temp at stock speed at full load is 52C, which is what I was getting with the noisy Cooler Master Seidon 120M. I don't recommend buying that one unless you like the sound of a rattling pump every 5 to 10 minutes. I tried everything, but now returning it. That's a story for another thread.
> I have the software set to extreme, and the loudest thing in my system is the hard drive! I have 3 Antec 3-speeds in the case also. Fan 1 & 2 are intakes at the top and side, while Fan #3 the top exhaust.


where are those two SP120s connected dude?
Are they the 4pin or 3pin variants?


----------



## spdaimon

I connected them to the pump. They are the 4 pin version.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> I connected them to the pump. They are the 4 pin version.


ah perfect then








You don't need it on extreme mode - but why not I guess lol!


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> ah perfect then
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> You don't need it on extreme mode - but why not I guess lol!


I just like my cpu to run cool as possible. Looking at the software, the fans don't ramp up until the liquid hits a certain temp, rather than the CPU. At first I didn't understand why my fans were at 420RPMs and the CPU was at 60C. Works more like a car radiator in that regard. I suppose I could just connect the fans to the motherboard if I want. I doesn't bother me enough to bother. I'll just tinker with the settings.

I meant to say earlier, that Fan #1 was an intake at the front, not the top. My fingers works faster than my mind sometimes, know what I mean?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> I just like my cpu to run cool as possible. Looking at the software, the fans don't ramp up until the liquid hits a certain temp, rather than the CPU. At first I didn't understand why my fans were at 420RPMs and the CPU was at 60C. Works more like a car radiator in that regard. I suppose I could just connect the fans to the motherboard if I want. I doesn't bother me enough to bother. I'll just tinker with the settings.
> 
> I meant to say earlier, that Fan #1 was an intake at the front, not the top. My fingers works faster than my mind sometimes, know what I mean?


haha yeah


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Sorry one more question...I'm trying to mount it to my 775 socket CPU, and I got the backplate in, but the retention ring does not fit. There is only options for 1156/1155 or 1366/2011 but no 775 mounting instructions? It seems that I need an additional part. Correct?


PM Me your shipping address, I'll send you the proper brackets for the LGA 775


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> PM Me your shipping address, I'll send you the proper brackets for the LGA 775


oh, cool! (no pun intended) Thank you very much! I put a request in with your Support for the parts already. I'll just let them know your taking care of it, when they get back to me.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> oh, cool! (no pun intended) Thank you very much! I put a request in with your Support for the parts already. I'll just let them know your taking care of it, when they get back to me.


do you know your ticket ID number? so i can take care of these parts for you and have them shipped by today?


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> do you know your ticket ID number? so i can take care of these parts for you and have them shipped by today?


Yes, I do. I'll PM it to you.


----------



## f0rteOC

I remounted my 620 with the original backplate, and...*success*!








However, just when I started typing this the pump started making a loud noise for several seconds, but it is quiet now (I think it was just air bubbles passing through the pump).
My CPU only made it up to 49C after 10mins of Prime95; my Hyper 212 Evo kept it at 52C-53C. Also, my CPU now idles at 28C with 70% fan speed (the Evo had an idle of 30C with 100% fan speed).


----------



## manching

wow great after sales service antec!


----------



## spdaimon

Yes!, it was very nice of them to just send out the parts to me. I was willing to pay the $10 for the parts, but the only place I could find them was in Australia and they were out of stock. I felt there was a little misinformation too, where the box stated it was 775 compatible, which is only half right. The backplate fits but the retention ring doesn't have the right parts for the 775 socket. Their website does not list the 920 as being 775 compatible, but I bought it off a seller through Amazon and the 775 was listed. I know 775 socket is dead, but I my Q9550 is perfectly capable playing some of my older games from way back, circa 1999 lol. I got my i7 for everything else. None the less, I am very grateful to receive the parts because its very hard to find a water cooler that works and is quiet for the Core 2 Duos.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Yes!, it was very nice of them to just send out the parts to me. I was willing to pay the $10 for the parts, but the only place I could find them was in Australia and they were out of stock. I felt there was a little misinformation too, where the box stated it was 775 compatible, which is only half right. The backplate fits but the retention ring doesn't have the right parts for the 775 socket. Their website does not list the 920 as being 775 compatible, but I bought it off a seller through Amazon and the 775 was listed. I know 775 socket is dead, but I my Q9550 is perfectly capable playing some of my older games from way back, circa 1999 lol. I got my i7 for everything else. None the less, I am very grateful to receive the parts because its very hard to find a water cooler that works and is quiet for the Core 2 Duos.


Lucky guy. I asked Antec support to send me a fan and the amd parts and they told me to pay for it. I have bought if of e-bay! The Q9950 wasn't cheap back in the days? 1000$!??


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Lucky guy. I asked Antec support to send me a fan and the amd parts and they told me to pay for it. I have bought if of e-bay! The Q9950 wasn't cheap back in the days? 1000$!??


please stop posting these things on here.
They didn't because you bought a USED cooler on eBay that never came with parts - stop complaining, it's pissing me off.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Lucky guy. I asked Antec support to send me a fan and the amd parts and they told me to pay for it. I have bought if of e-bay! The Q9950 wasn't cheap back in the days? 1000$!??
> 
> 
> 
> please stop posting these things on here.
> They didn't because you bought a USED cooler on eBay that never came with parts - stop complaining, it's pissing me off.
Click to expand...

why so polite? Not sure if I understand you.


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> why so polite? Not sure if I understand you.


I'm with Totally Dubbed on this.

Not to be rude, but part of the problem is we don't understand you. I read some of your posts, and was not sure what you were trying to say, because it sounds like English isn't your first language. It sounded like you were mounting it to some videocard and it didn't work. That's not it's intended use and you may need to buy additional parts. You said it works on your CPU, so it sounds like it works to me. Not sure what other parts you need, but a fan you can get anywhere and you can go as cheap as you want. It sounds like 90% of us here put the Corsair SP120s on it, while a little expensive for a fan, they look nice and are totally silent at 1400 RPMs. When you buy something off eBay, and its used, its possible parts are missing. You need to work with the seller on that if he didn't list it properly or didnt send what he promised. Its not Antec's responsibility to provide free replacements. Mine came shrink wrapped. If it was used, I don't know whither they would have just sent me the parts or not free of charge, but I would have bought them anyway. The point is, I didn't complain about it and ended up fixing it on my own, only because I had a compatible cooler and parts. People tried to help you and you just ended up fighting with them and being belligerent. It rubs people the wrong way. All I can say is that you wore out your welcome here and need to work with Antec's support or the eBay seller. I am a eBay seller myself and wouldn't sell something with only half the parts nor would I buy something knowlingly that didn't have all the parts. Again, all I can say is buy your parts you need, or work with the eBay seller. If its not past 45 days, you can dispute it. Anyhow, I won't take up any more space on the forum about this. You need to resolve this issue on your own and not complain to us about it. We tried to help and you didn't want to listen and just want everything handed to you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> I'm with Totally Dubbed on this.
> 
> Not to be rude, but part of the problem is we don't understand you. I read some of your posts, and was not sure what you were trying to say, because it sounds like English isn't your first language. It sounded like you were mounting it to some videocard and it didn't work. That's not it's intended use and you may need to buy additional parts. You said it works on your CPU, so it sounds like it works to me. Not sure what other parts you need, but a fan you can get anywhere and you can go as cheap as you want. It sounds like 90% of us here put the Corsair SP120s on it, while a little expensive for a fan, they look nice and are totally silent at 1400 RPMs. When you buy something off eBay, and its used, its possible parts are missing. You need to work with the seller on that if he didn't list it properly or didnt send what he promised. Its not Antec's responsibility to provide free replacements. Mine came shrink wrapped. If it was used, I don't know whither they would have just sent me the parts or not free of charge, but I would have bought them anyway. The point is, I didn't complain about it and ended up fixing it on my own, only because I had a compatible cooler and parts. People tried to help you and you just ended up fighting with them and being belligerent. It rubs people the wrong way. All I can say is that you wore out your welcome here and work with Antec's support or the eBay seller. I am a eBay seller myself and wouldn't sell something with only half the parts nor would I buy something knowlingly that didn't have all the parts. Again, all I can say is buy your parts you need, or work with the eBay seller. If its not past 45 days, you can dispute it. Anyhow, I won't take up any more space on the forum about this. You need to resolve this issue on your own and not complain to us about it. We tried to help and you didn't want to listen and just want everything handed to you.


well said.


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Lucky guy. I asked Antec support to send me a fan and the amd parts and they told me to pay for it. I have bought if of e-bay! The Q9950 wasn't cheap back in the days? 1000$!??


You are thinking more like the Extreme processors. They launched those at $1000. The Q9550 launched around $600 from what I see. I picked this one up in 2008 off of eBay for about $220. I've love to get a QX9770, but they aren't worth $300+ eBayers want for it, or at least I am not willing to spend that much.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Lucky guy. I asked Antec support to send me a fan and the amd parts and they told me to pay for it. I have bought if of e-bay! The Q9950 wasn't cheap back in the days? 1000$!??


I sent you a PM and told you to submit a ticket, but you replied that if I can submit a ticket for you. Sorry, if you want me to help you, please do your part.

I'm already trying to help you but as others stated, if you have issues with the unit, there is nothing we can do to replace it because this was purchased from e-bay. Its kinda like buying a used car from a stranger and you're asking a warranty on the dealer.

Thanks


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Lucky guy. I asked Antec support to send me a fan and the amd parts and they told me to pay for it. I have bought if of e-bay! The Q9950 wasn't cheap back in the days? 1000$!??
> 
> 
> 
> I sent you a PM and told you to submit a ticket, but you replied that if I can submit a ticket for you. Sorry, if you want me to help you, please do your part.
> 
> I'm already trying to help you but as others stated, if you have issues with the unit, there is nothing we can do to replace it because this was purchased from e-bay. Its kinda like buying a used car from a stranger and you're asking a warranty on the dealer.
> 
> Thanks
Click to expand...

o
You offer me help I told you the reason why I don't have a ticket id. I don't know other words but I don't have my amd parts and my fan is broken. So, isn't reasonable enough to replace my thing?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Lucky guy. I asked Antec support to send me a fan and the amd parts and they told me to pay for it. I have bought if of e-bay! The Q9950 wasn't cheap back in the days? 1000$!??
> 
> 
> 
> You are thinking more like the Extreme processors. They launched those at $1000. The Q9550 launched around $600 from what I see. I picked this one up in 2008 off of eBay for about $220. I've love to get a QX9770, but they aren't worth $300+ eBayers want for it, or at least I am not willing to spend that much.
Click to expand...

600$ on CPU. OMG. Hope the thing works.


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> 600$ on CPU. OMG. Hope the thing works.


That was brand new. Yes, it would. If not, Intel would replace it. If someone sold it used on eBay, and it didn't work and was sold as working, its not Intel's responsibility to replace it. The previous owner could have overvolted it and fried it. See what I am saying? A manufacturer can't guarantee the quality of the product any longer. And its the sellers problem, not Intel's or Antec's, especially if he sold it as working. I had bad luck on eBay with a Athlon XP, this was waay back, and it didnt work. I sent it back for refund, never got refund. This was pre-Paypal. It's the reason why eBay banned Money Orders. Its nice to have the 45-day dispute today. So if I were you, rather than trying to get a refund on it or reselling it, I'd just buy the parts. Its cheaper in the long run.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> 600$ on CPU. OMG. Hope the thing works.
> 
> 
> 
> That was brand new. Yes, it would. If not, Intel would replace it. If someone sold it used on eBay, and it didn't work and was sold as working, its not Intel's responsibility to replace it. The previous owner could have overvolted it and fried it. See what I am saying? A manufacturer can't guarantee the quality of the product any longer. And its the sellers problem, not Intel's or Antec's, especially if he sold it as working. I had bad luck on eBay with a Athlon XP, this was waay back, and it didnt work. I sent it back for refund, never got refund. This was pre-Paypal. It's the reason why eBay banned Money Orders. Its nice to have the 45-day dispute today. So if I were you, rather than trying to get a refund on it or reselling it, I'd just buy the parts. Its cheaper in the long run.
Click to expand...

I read your other post and this one. IMO Antec can replace my parts. I think I didn't ask much and you got it replaced,too. What's wrong?


----------



## M3TAl

I don't know how many times we have to say this. Antec is not responsible for used products, they're responsible for NEW products from AUTHORIZED Retailers.

You want missing or broken parts? That's the responsibility of the eBay seller not Antec.

Even so an Antec representative still tried to help you... Not really anything else that can be done.


----------



## Recursion

Yes, but I don't have a ticket-id? They send me RMA but no id? I can't give the ticket-id?


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes, but I don't have a ticket-id? They send me RMA but no id? I can't give the ticket-id?


Dude, you need to go to www.antec.com and click on support. Then click on your zone. A form page loads. Put your info in that and a ticket is created. Its easy. That's how I got my ticket number, I didn't pull it out of my bum. Antec already tried to help you they said, even offered to send you the parts, but you wanted it overnight which they couldn't send it that fast to the UK without you paying the shipping. Now you are on here whining how they aren't helping you. Come on, be reasonable! Don't be a ****er.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Yes, but I don't have a ticket-id? They send me RMA but no id? I can't give the ticket-id?
> 
> 
> 
> Dude, you need to go to www.antec.com and click on support. Then click on your zone. A form page loads. Put your info in that and a ticket is created. Its easy. That's how I got my ticket number, I didn't pull it out of my bum. Antec already tried to help you they said, even offered to send you the parts, but you wanted it overnight which they couldn't send it that fast to the UK without you paying the shipping. Now you are on here whining how they aren't helping you. Come on, be reasonable! Don't be a ****er.
Click to expand...

You know Furmark is really good benchmark.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Yes!, it was very nice of them to just send out the parts to me. I was willing to pay the $10 for the parts, but the only place I could find them was in Australia and they were out of stock. I felt there was a little misinformation too, where the box stated it was 775 compatible, which is only half right. The backplate fits but the retention ring doesn't have the right parts for the 775 socket. Their website does not list the 920 as being 775 compatible, but I bought it off a seller through Amazon and the 775 was listed. I know 775 socket is dead, but I my Q9550 is perfectly capable playing some of my older games from way back, circa 1999 lol. I got my i7 for everything else. None the less, I am very grateful to receive the parts because its very hard to find a water cooler that works and is quiet for the Core 2 Duos.


Hmm? When I bought my 920 775 was listed on there. I had everything that fitted the 775 socket too. Isn't the ring the same for all sockets? The screws were a little bit offset towards the inside, but everything worked great. Used it on a CX6600. 775 has good processors even compared to today's. Only thing that sucks is the PCIe slot.


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> Hmm? When I bought my 920 775 was listed on there. I had everything that fitted the 775 socket too. Isn't the ring the same for all sockets? The screws were a little bit offset towards the inside, but everything worked great. Used it on a CX6600. 775 has good processors even compared to today's. Only thing that sucks is the PCIe slot.


I've seen some pictures where there were green and blue pieces, I assume from older 920s. So, I assume they changed/upgraded the rings somewhere along the way. I have just four black pieces that snap into four other black pieces, and depending on which way I have the hole, towards the outside or towards the inside, it fits the 1156/1155/1150 or 1366. The 2011 socket has some other parts. I didn't read about that since I was dealing with a 775. The socket holes for the 775 are a little closer than the 1156. I couldn't figure out any possible way. The Corsair H80's holes are more elongated, with two different inserts depending on the socket family. I am using that for the time being. From what pictures I found for the 920's 775 adapter kit, it looks exactly the same.

I like the locking ring. Nice touch. The Corsairs I had to hold the pump in place, pick up the ring, rotate the pump into place under the hooks or whatever, and then screw down the ring. I think I missed that in the instructions, but I noticed it in Totally Dubbed's install guide he posted. Before that I was scratching my head, wondering were it goes. Definitely makes installing the pump easier.


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You know Furmark is really good benchmark.


Can't tell if troll......or......confused.....or......

Just can't tell....

@Spdaimon
U asked about vrms on gpu for mounting 620/920 on gpu. There are lots of options, I made a cutom bracket for one card that had a mount point for one of the original fans from the stock cooler. My 2nd card I mounted a case fan so that it points and blows directly at the vrm section of the card.

Both my cards came with built in heat sinks firbthe vrms though, depending on the card, you may need to fit heat sinks to the vrms as a fan blowing air acrossed them naked may not cool them enough.

NZXT also makes a bracket now that has a spot to mount a fan so no custom solution needed. Though u still may need to install your own vrm heat sinks.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterwarrior*
> 
> Can't tell if troll......or......confused.....or......
> 
> Just can't tell....


To be honest, if you're using Furmark with the right settings, then it can help you determine whether or not your video card's OC is stable....When I OC my cards, that's actually the 1st thing I run, since with the right settings, it produces a level of stress that is comparable to gaming....


----------



## M3TAl

So 400x300 8xmsaa, close to gaming type load? Fair enough lol. I don't touch Furmark... it's a little too ridiculous for me







. I just run Valley or a game for stability.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterwarrior*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You know Furmark is really good benchmark.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't tell if troll......or......confused.....or......
> 
> Just can't tell....
> 
> @Spdaimon
> U asked about vrms on gpu for mounting 620/920 on gpu. There are lots of options, I made a cutom bracket for one card that had a mount point for one of the original fans from the stock cooler. My 2nd card I mounted a case fan so that it points and blows directly at the vrm section of the card.
> 
> Both my cards came with built in heat sinks firbthe vrms though, depending on the card, you may need to fit heat sinks to the vrms as a fan blowing air acrossed them naked may not cool them enough.
> 
> NZXT also makes a bracket now that has a spot to mount a fan so no custom solution needed. Though u still may need to install your own vrm heat sinks.
Click to expand...

Sorry, but Furmark is a gpu stress test. Unfortunately it mixes the gpu numbering when its in crossfire. On top of the screen the gpu order is the reverse from the bottom display. This isn't easy to read especially I have only 1 kuehler but I need two. Btw. Thanks to spdxxxx for showing me how to get a ticket-id. Why nobody tells me this before? I have also little stress here because economy is bad and I start to hate ppl (here).


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *winterwarrior*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You know Furmark is really good benchmark.
> 
> 
> 
> Can't tell if troll......or......confused.....or......
> 
> Just can't tell....
> 
> @Spdaimon
> U asked about vrms on gpu for mounting 620/920 on gpu. There are lots of options, I made a cutom bracket for one card that had a mount point for one of the original fans from the stock cooler. My 2nd card I mounted a case fan so that it points and blows directly at the vrm section of the card.
> 
> Both my cards came with built in heat sinks firbthe vrms though, depending on the card, you may need to fit heat sinks to the vrms as a fan blowing air acrossed them naked may not cool them enough.
> 
> NZXT also makes a bracket now that has a spot to mount a fan so no custom solution needed. Though u still may need to install your own vrm heat sinks.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Sorry, but Furmark is a gpu stress test. Unfortunately it mixes the gpu numbering when its in crossfire. On top of the screen the gpu order is the reverse from the bottom display. This isn't easy to read especially I have only 1 kuehler but I need two. Btw. Thanks to spdxxxx for showing me how to get a ticket-id. Why nobody tells me this before? I have also little stress here because economy is bad and I start to hate ppl (here).
Click to expand...

Last year I economy was really bad and then I had difficult with my family and with my clients and other business stories.


----------



## winterwarrior

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> To be honest, if you're using Furmark with the right settings, then it can help you determine whether or not your video card's OC is stable....When I OC my cards, that's actually the 1st thing I run, since with the right settings, it produces a level of stress that is comparable to gaming....


Sorry but I don't think u got the joke, I quoted recursion with that comment because he said that in a post responding to a qoute that had nothing to do with furmark. Leaving me to wonder if he miss-quoted, miss-understood, or was trolling...


----------



## manching

got my 2 corsair sp120 (pwm) installed on my antec 920 and the fans are really quiet (or tolerable) compared with the antec stock fans. i love it!

next will be af120 quiet with led and replace all my stock case fans!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *winterwarrior*
> 
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> To be honest, if you're using Furmark with the right settings, then it can help you determine whether or not your video card's OC is stable....When I OC my cards, that's actually the 1st thing I run, since with the right settings, it produces a level of stress that is comparable to gaming....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sorry but I don't think u got the joke, I quoted recursion with that comment because he said that in a post responding to a qoute that had nothing to do with furmark. Leaving me to wonder if he miss-quoted, miss-understood, or was trolling...
Click to expand...

I'm not sure if you are reading the thread but I wrote some post before that I have difficult to read the output of Furmark. Maybe you are right about trolling but I also want something back and thank spdxxxx he has read my posts.


----------



## spdaimon

No problem. It's natural for me to submit a ticket. Good place to start is usually the support tab at the manufacturer's site. I do IT support and people are always passing me in the hall and asking for help. My first question is "Got a ticket?" No ticket, no service. Later you are wondering who that was and what their problem was, especially when you get asked multiple times a day.

The only thing I've used Furmark is for making sure my cards were not overheating again or a RMA'd card from ASUS (twice) was working okay. Benchmarking, I stick with 3Dmarks' offerings. To each their own, I say.


----------



## Gereti

Hmm, someone is selling cuhler 620 with 2x120mm rad¨s without fluid's, hmm,,

price 25€ on one forum's, maby i just, wait to get pic's from them and buy that









if i get that, it's going to be interesting project i would say


----------



## jdstock76

So are they no longer producing these? Was considering one over the H80i and I didn't see them on Newegg.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> So are they no longer producing these? Was considering one over the H80i and I didn't see them on Newegg.


Yes! we have stopped our contracts with Asetek that's why the 620, 920 and 1220 are already discontinued. We are building our own closed loop cooling units in house, the Kuhlers 650, 950 and 1250 and soon to come out 750.


----------



## jdstock76

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Yes! we have stopped our contracts with Asetek that's why the 620, 920 and 1220 are already discontinued. We are building our own closed loop cooling units in house, the Kuhlers 650, 950 and 1250 and soon to come out 750.


Sweet! Do you have any good linkys to benchmarks for OC'd Ivy's? Or I could just surf Youtube later.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *jdstock76*
> 
> Sweet! Do you have any good linkys to benchmarks for OC'd Ivy's? Or I could just surf Youtube later.


check my thread maybe....?


----------



## Gereti

Allright, bought that "cuhler 620"

finally, i'm real eligible to be on this threat, this pic is from seller


he post's unit without fluid's, so i have to think how i fill it, maby i just buy little watertank what i use for that..

and price was 25€>


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright, bought that "cuhler 620"
> 
> finally, i'm real eligible to be on this threat, this pic is from seller
> 
> 
> he post's unit without fluid's, so i have to think how i fill it, maby i just buy little watertank what i use for that..
> 
> and price was 25€>


Perfect!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright, bought that "cuhler 620"
> 
> finally, i'm real eligible to be on this threat, this pic is from seller
> 
> 
> he post's unit without fluid's, so i have to think how i fill it, maby i just buy little watertank what i use for that..
> 
> and price was 25€>


very nice! And yes you can get liquid separately


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright, bought that "cuhler 620"
> 
> finally, i'm real eligible to be on this threat, this pic is from seller
> 
> 
> he post's unit without fluid's, so i have to think how i fill it, maby i just buy little watertank what i use for that..
> 
> and price was 25€>


Interesting mod. It looks like it has couplers there near the second rad. My first thought is to uncouple one side and pour fluid into both sides. might need a helper though. For fluid, you'd probably use distilled water with an anti-corrosion agent added, at least, that's from my experience with my Zalman Reservator. Air shouldn't be a problem if the radiators are above the pump.


----------



## Gereti

mjeah, i know that i should use distilled water, and i'm going to buy some battery water, and now i think should i replace my h80i with that one, or put this on my matx build, but i think that i replace h80i and put h80i to my matx build...

but i think that i should buy little watertank, to make filling more easier,

i put some more pics when i get it to my own hands on next week,


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright, bought that "cuhler 620"
> 
> finally, i'm real eligible to be on this threat, this pic is from seller
> 
> 
> he post's unit without fluid's, so i have to think how i fill it, maby i just buy little watertank what i use for that..
> 
> and price was 25€>


Hahaha I have a similar setup on the project that I'm currently working on. Hmmm can you say modularity project


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Hahaha I have a similar setup on the project that I'm currently working on. Hmmm can you say modularity project


shhhhh


----------



## M3TAl

Are those quick disconnects on there? Also since you will be filling it yourself you should look into a serious anti-corrosive with all that aluminum in the loop. The stock kuhlers have a glycol mixture I think.


----------



## 66racer

I have been using my antec kuhler 920 and h70 expanded with a 50/50 mixture of distilled and fesser one coolant for man....maybe 3 years now? Never had any problems with mixed metals. I just retired them for the swiftech h220.


----------



## M3TAl

Wonder what the inside of that copper block on your AIOs looks like after 3 years.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wonder what the inside of that copper block on your AIOs looks like after 3 years.


I might take one apart, Im planning on giving one to a buddy, still worked as good as new.

edit:
keep in mind I flushed the fluid every few months as well. Temps going from the kuhler 920 to the h220 only dropped maybe 5-6c. The h70 was on the gtx770 and those temps dropped 10c going to an ek block.


----------



## M3TAl

I got a pretty massive drop on GPU (620 on it) and CPU (920) going full custom but of course that's expected with 720mm of full copper rads. Get to keep all my fans at 800 rpm too. Going 1600 rpm only nets about a 3C drop.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Are those quick disconnects on there? Also since you will be filling it yourself you should look into a serious anti-corrosive with all that aluminum in the loop. The stock kuhlers have a glycol mixture I think.


Yes, i think
becose same guy was selling zalman reserator 1, i was thinking to buy that too, but seller's son was maby lost poweradapter for the pump









so i think that those quick disconnect adapter's are from reserator 1

have to figure out that, what watertank i buy when i buy one, was plannin to take alphacool's cheap, 1x5.25" slot tank with 20.70€ price


have to figure out, where i fit those rad's on my case, becose i havev rosewill armor evo, and that roof is littlebit... interesting case,
But, Jimm's Pc Store was seling those 30€/each, so i was have to buy two of them









*Move to the top of the case and you see the I/O panel and what is both the best and worst design decision in the EVO: the extruded fan grill. As a means of increasing interior space to allow headroom for a 240mm radiator, this is a great idea. I don't think it looks particularly bad either; mesh is a specific design motif for the EVO, so it makes sense that it would appear here as a functional accent. Where it goes horribly south are the rubber grommets used to hold the fans in place. Simply put, they barely work. Jostling in transit caused one of the fans to fall into the case. Reaffixing it revealed the same fundamental problem: with a bit of force, you can actually pull the grommets (and thus, the screws) through the grill and inside the case. So while there's space for a radiator, I wouldn't dare mount one as I don't believe the existing mounts can actually support the weight. This is a fatal flaw in the EVO's design.*

http://www.anandtech.com/show/6684/rosewill-armor-evo-case-review-sometimes-performance-isnt-everything/2

Btw...
Hey antec cs155, how long screws 620 use?, so i can buy right one's


----------



## M3TAl

The 620/920 for the rad screws are in imperial measurement. They are 6-32 x 1.25" screws. The typical metric radiator screw is M3 30mm or M4 30mm. The threading is different between 6-32 and M3/4 so you'll need 6-32 x 1.25".

Also if adding a reservoir make sure the pump is directly after the reservoir so the water goes straight to the pump. Don't want the pump to run dry.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The 620/920 for the rad screws are in imperial measurement. They are 6-32 x 1.25" screws. The typical metric radiator screw is M3 30mm or M4 30mm. The threading is different between 6-32 and M3/4 so you'll need 6-32 x 1.25".
> 
> Also if adding a reservoir make sure the pump is directly after the reservoir so the water goes straight to the pump. Don't want the pump to run dry.


Allright, thank's, becose jimm's pc store sell's M4 30mm/35mm screw's with 0.70€/4 screw, with 1-4 day' shippiing time (usually i have got my 1-4days stuff on 2 days,
of cource there are 3M 30mm screw's too, but shippiing time is 10-20 day's... and phobya's 6-32 x 30mm scre's 2.1€/4 screw, so i think that i buy those M4 screw's when i need them,

But, thank's for you, and i was planning to build those in this order:

Tank, cuhler (pump), radiator, radiator, tank


----------



## davidh304

I recently purchased an Antec Kuhler H2O 620. If I don't want to use the double side adhesive is it possible to just leave it off?


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *davidh304*
> 
> I recently purchased an Antec Kuhler H2O 620. If I don't want to use the double side adhesive is it possible to just leave it off?


Sure. Its just there to hold the base in place. I forgot to put mine on, but just held it place with my hand and a bit of Scotch tape while I screwed on the retention ring.


----------



## Gereti

ömm, one guestion, what tubing 620 use?, becose i have no idea and i have to know so i can choose right fittings to watertank
10/8mm? or something else? smaller?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> ömm, one guestion, what tubing 620 use?, becose i have no idea and i have to know so i can choose right fittings to watertank
> 10/8mm? or something else? smaller?


the one I use on my project has this dimention 3/8 ID 1/2 OD

bought this tubing:

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2290/ex-tub-29/Tygon_E-3603_38_ID_12_OD_-_Laboratory_Tubing.html


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> the one I use on my project has this dimention 3/8 ID 1/2 OD
> 
> bought this tubing:
> 
> http://www.frozencpu.com/products/2290/ex-tub-29/Tygon_E-3603_38_ID_12_OD_-_Laboratory_Tubing.html


what those number's are if you calculate them on millimetres?
becose i'm confused :confuse:


----------



## M3TAl

The inner diameter for the stock tubes is 1/4" I think? Pretty small. That's the only thing that will fit on the barbs that come with the 620/920. If it has something besides the stock barbs then I don't know what ID should be. 1/4" is 6.35mm.


----------



## ajsc1086

Anyone here using 920 in a Cooler Master N200? Mind if I take a peek?


----------



## Gereti

hmm, used littlebit google, and some people who mod H50 corsair (rad similar with 620, am i right?) and he was used 10/8mm tubing, so i'm gonna get those then,... hmm, hope that i get my *unit* soon


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> hmm, used littlebit google, and some people who mod H50 corsair (rad similar with 620, am i right?) and he was used 10/8mm tubing, so i'm gonna get those then,... hmm, hope that i get my *unit* soon


Doesn't necessarily mean they used the same barbs with same inner diameter. Always thought it was 1/4" ID.


----------



## kabus

Hello,
I have the Antec H2O 920 v4 and I wanted to know if the cooler can be operated with the fan from Enermax UCTB12P TBSilence or whether there could be any problems.

Liquid Temps are under Idel 29,2 °C
under Game/Benchmarks 34 °C
CPU Temp Idel 24-28°C per Core
Game/Benchmark 34-38 °C per Core
Room Temp is 22,5°C
CPU is a I5 4670K
Fan Speed is min.800RPM-1500RPM

Thanks for the help


----------



## Gereti

*Khöh*, got something *khöh*


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabus*
> 
> Hello,
> I have the Antec H2O 920 v4 and I wanted to know if the cooler can be operated with the fan from Enermax UCTB12P TBSilence or whether there could be any problems.
> 
> Liquid Temps are under Idel 29,2 °C
> under Game/Benchmarks 34 °C
> CPU Temp Idel 24-28°C per Core
> Game/Benchmark 34-38 °C per Core
> Room Temp is 22,5°C
> CPU is a I5 4670K
> Fan Speed is min.800RPM-1500RPM
> 
> Thanks for the help


It's a 4pin PWM:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214028

So yes it should work directly with the software.

But it looks like a case fan, not a radiator fan.


----------



## kabus

The fan from me have 3 pin PWM
This inexpensive ribbon is also with the software controlling I was just not sure because of the Airflow: 45.05 to 121.05 m³ / h and the air pressure: 0.483 to 1.676 mm-H2O.
The Antec fans have probably about 3.4 mm H2O and the guys say you should not go below 2.7 mm H2O

Yes it could be a Case Fan because I could not find on the www whether someone has on a radiator on it.
Only a friend from me runs the on Antec 620

Is there a silent fan which would perhaps be better?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kabus*
> 
> The fan from me have 3 pin PWM
> This inexpensive ribbon is also with the software controlling I was just not sure because of the Airflow: 45.05 to 121.05 m³ / h and the air pressure: 0.483 to 1.676 mm-H2O.
> The Antec fans have probably about 3.4 mm H2O and the guys say you should not go below 2.7 mm H2O
> 
> Yes it could be a Case Fan because I could not find on the www whether someone has on a radiator on it.
> Only a friend from me runs the on Antec 620
> 
> Is there a silent fan which would perhaps be better?


OP has a list of fans


----------



## Gereti

Haha, finally, i can push * vote* button for antec 620









hmm, couple days and i get new psu, and then i install that cooler, got it working pretty gpood, even without tank, it have some air still on insade rad, but it wont go now on pump so...


----------



## Gereti

Allright guy's, Here we go


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Bit tight, but good work


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Bit tight, but good work


Thanks, next update will be:

second fan's to rad's (push&pull then)
dvd-slot watertank, and new tubing

and yeh, littlebit tight, and temp's are +5*C higher than h80i, hmm,...


----------



## M3TAl

My guess is the pump can barely handle the extra rad and all those quick disconnect fittings... Got to remember the pressure and flow of these AIOs is pretty low.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My guess is the pump can barely handle the extra rad and all those quick disconnect fittings... Got to remember the pressure and flow of these AIOs is pretty low.


To an extent I agree with you. I put my antec kuhler 920 through a 180mm radiator when I had the system in a tj08-e and while it cooled my 2700k VERY well, I think the flow rate/pressure was holding it back a bit, that or the copper plate itself. When I switched to the h220 temps dropped I think it was 5c when using the supplied 240mm rad in a cpu only loop. That does say a lot of good though regarding the kuler 920 though


----------



## Gereti

mm, going to replace tubing when i get some money, i sell my matx build cpu+mobo, and get 100€ from them
and then buy watertank too, to make filling more easier


----------



## unknown601

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allright guy's, Here we go


The fan on the VRM's is a good idea. That is the only down side of water coolers no MB cooling. A water block with a small fan would be good has anyone done that yet?


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *unknown601*
> 
> The fan on the VRM's is a good idea. That is the only down side of water coolers no MB cooling. A water block with a small fan would be good has anyone done that yet?


Yep, it's been done as a feature of a motherboard....










http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-128-596


----------



## Gereti

Hey, Antec CS155

I got offer from one guy, from one forum that he would sell me 620 if he buy one computer parts packet

question is, how's warranty?
unit is non used, on non opened box (if i remember right)

But... it's from silent rig webstore, and that store isn't any more becose bankruptcy

So,...?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Hey, Antec CS155
> 
> I got offer from one guy, from one forum that he would sell me 620 if he buy one computer parts packet
> 
> question is, how's warranty?
> unit is non used, on non opened box (if i remember right)
> 
> But... it's from silent rig webstore, and that store isn't any more becose bankruptcy
> 
> So,...?


Just make sure you keep a copy of your invoice/receipt/proof of purchase. Those are the only documents that we would need in order to process a warranty replacement. Most of our units have a 3 year warranty

Also, if there is an issue with the our RMA process in Europe, you just PM me here

Thanks


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> Just make sure you keep a copy of your invoice/receipt/proof of purchase. Those are the only documents that we would need in order to process a warranty replacement. Most of our units have a 3 year warranty
> 
> Also, if there is an issue with the our RMA process in Europe, you just PM me here
> 
> Thanks


Ah, thank's for you








if i get it on good price, i buy it









becose i would assemble it on my 6970 or 7870 graphics card...


----------



## Shazberries

Hey guys!
My name is Andrew and I am trying to design a bracket that will use Antec Kuhler series on a GPU. If you're interested, check it out here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1476839/gpu-brackets-for-mounting-antec-620-920-and-corsair-h50-70-110#post_22008497

Sneak peek:


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shazberries*
> 
> Hey guys!
> My name is Andrew and I am trying to design a bracket that will use Antec Kuhler series on a GPU. If you're interested, check it out here: http://www.overclock.net/t/1476839/gpu-brackets-for-mounting-antec-620-920-and-corsair-h50-70-110#post_22008497
> 
> Sneak peek:


you have, interesting "project" i see


----------



## Shazberries

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> you have, interesting "project" i see


Well, I got the idea 2 days ago, starting sketching yesterday, and I have a good sketchup done... There's a 3d printer at my school which I may be able to use, which would let me test the spacing and hole size without having to waste any money...


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shazberries*
> 
> Well, I got the idea 2 days ago, starting sketching yesterday, and I have a good sketchup done... There's a 3d printer at my school which I may be able to use, which would let me test the spacing and hole size without having to waste any money...


Hmm, that is pretty clever idea, if you are able to sell these, lower price than nzxt's own model, you have good business idea









btw, you should think non fan holder- model too, (for dual-gpu user's, etc modder's)


----------



## Shazberries

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Hmm, that is pretty clever idea, if you are able to sell these, lower price than nzxt's own model, you have good business idea
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> btw, you should think non fan holder- model too, (for dual-gpu user's, etc modder's)


I think that creating a no fan model would be really easy, since all you have to do is chop off half the bracket!


----------



## richie_2010

Ive seen this before somone else made one for their cards. Looks good n keep up the work.

The fan spacings for a 92mm fan are about 88mm from either end.
Google has pics of dimensions though


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shazberries*
> 
> I think that creating a no fan model would be really easy, since all you have to do is chop off half the bracket!


But then you waste some material, and that wasted material pay some money too,








so tha's why could be more easily, make second product


----------



## M3TAl

The basic design looks almost identical to dwood's bracket, which are no longer being made.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The basic design looks almost identical to dwood's bracket, which are no longer being made.


2x these and 2x cuhler 620/etc pump+block to my HD6990


----------



## richie_2010

They are. Some company on ebay. Search corsair h70 n u see it also they make the h80 one aswell.

Ive got a promo on mine for this week £10 shipped and it compat with both round n square pumps


----------



## M3TAl

By not being made I meant by dwood himself here on OCN, he had a few other things he was making too like custom back plates. Unfortunately he went MIA







.

I'd assume there are copycats on the Ebay and such though.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> By not being made I meant by dwood himself here on OCN, he had a few other things he was making too like custom back plates. Unfortunately he went MIA
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> .
> 
> I'd assume there are copycats on the Ebay and such though.


MIA? Missing In Action?

hmm, copycat's are allways annoying thing...


----------



## M3TAl

Well, pretty sure he didn't have any patent or other type of legal protection of his design. Pretty sure he was the very first person to start making brackets for these AIO's. I believe NZXT even approached dwood to use his brackets on some of their systems for a show, CES or something along those lines.

NZXT's whole idea for their bracket came from dwood. Just some interesting facts.







Don't have the proof to back all that up but it's been discussed on OCN many times over the past 2+ years.


----------



## Gereti

Look's pretty cheap i would say
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pulse-Modding-Antec-Kuhler-Corsair-H40-H50-H70-GPU-Bracket-with-Fan-Bracket-/251485845546?pt=UK_Computing_Water_Cooling&hash=item3a8db9782a


----------



## Shazberries

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> But then you waste some material, and that wasted material pay some money too,
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> so tha's why could be more easily, make second product


I was kidding man. I wouldn't make a whole bracket just to chop half off








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Look's pretty cheap i would say
> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pulse-Modding-Antec-Kuhler-Corsair-H40-H50-H70-GPU-Bracket-with-Fan-Bracket-/251485845546?pt=UK_Computing_Water_Cooling&hash=item3a8db9782a


I will, hopefully, make a better looking, higher quality bracket... I will be able to do custom stuff, and maybe even a square one eventually as well...

Follow my thread if you're interested, I may get to use a 3D printer or make an actual prototype in the next few days!


----------



## richie_2010

Keep it simple. Keeps costs down and makes it easier to use.
The dwood ones were made of aluminum and were strong make it with heavier material and it could pull on the cooler and if you ever became a artisan would inc postage costs


----------



## Shazberries

Thanks for the advice! I hope this all works out!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> Keep it simple. Keeps costs down and makes it easier to use.
> The dwood ones were made of aluminum and were strong make it with heavier material and it could pull on the cooler and if you ever became a artisan would inc postage costs


You can also use pipecleaner and a paper-clip and long screws to fix the block. Surround the block with pipecleaner and pull the screws through it. On top use a paperclip from corner-to-corner to the screws and to push the block down. Looks ugly but is cheap and works







.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Shazberries*
> 
> I was kidding man. I wouldn't make a whole bracket just to chop half off
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I will, hopefully, make a better looking, higher quality bracket... I will be able to do custom stuff, and maybe even a square one eventually as well...
> 
> Follow my thread if you're interested, I may get to use a 3D printer or make an actual prototype in the next few days!


No problem, i sub it


----------



## raikensin

Found heaven for my 620







I was cheaping out on buying reservoir so end up buying pvc pipe, do some cutting and drilling, and lord behold.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *raikensin*
> 
> Found heaven for my 620
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was cheaping out on buying reservoir so end up buying pvc pipe, do some cutting and drilling, and lord behold.


daymmmme bro! Nice!


----------



## raikensin

now debating on which coolant to buy, it have distilled water atm, the whole project cost around 15 dollars total.


----------



## Gereti

Got awesome idea

-I dissamble this 2x620 rad+pump from my main computer and put h80i back but...

-silverstone sugo sg02
-dvd-slot water tank

cuhler 620 pump to cpu
cuhler 620 pump to gpu

2x rad on somewhere

i sell my 651K athlon II+ fm1 mobo, and try find somewhere cheap am3/am3+ matx mobo, to my phenom II 545 and unlock it to x4

but... where i get second cuhler 620 pump/block


----------



## M3TAl

Don't expect to be able to OC an x4 a ton on a mATX motherboard. Most are what 3+1/4+1 phase? Make sure you watch those VRM temps.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't expect to be able to OC an x4 a ton on a mATX motherboard. Most are what 3+1/4+1 phase? Make sure you watch those VRM temps.


I know that one,

and well, my "first" mobo (to my 960T phenom II x4) was asrock 970 extreme 4 with 4+1 phase

gigabyte is selling one, matx mobo with heatsinked vrm and it's 4+1 phased

well, i have now non overclocked athlon II 651K (3Ghz), so i think 3Ghz phenom II x4 is good,

and, i would get traded, one of my am3+ mobo's ( http://www.msi.com/product/mb/760GP43_FX.html ) to my friend asrock n68-s3 cheap mobo, what look's like this

but well, i have no idea what i should do, becose my sugo sg02 have ounly 2x80mm fan hole's, so where i put my rad, etc...









maby i just buy intertech matx case when (if) jimm's pc-store get it on stock...

i would like to grap intel but, no money so then we use what we have on already


----------



## AT0MAC

I have just bought the H2O 620v4 cooler and a pair of Corsair SP120 Quiet Ed. fans I want to use on it.

It's going to cool my server rig, consistent of a i3-3225 CPU in a SilverStone DS-380 chassis.
Have not bought the chassis yet, but am collecting good deals on everything else...

I now have the PSU (SilverStone SFX 300Watt), CPU, RAM (Corsair Low Profile Vengeance 8GB CL9), MB (Gigabyte GA-B75N ITX), SSD (64GB Plextor M3), 2pcs. 2TB Hitachi 5K3000 & 1pcs. Hitachi 5K3000 3TB drives.

Im looking forward to get the whole thing up and running so I officially can join this "club"


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *AT0MAC*
> 
> I have just bought the H2O 620v4 cooler and a pair of Corsair SP120 Quiet Ed. fans I want to use on it.
> 
> It's going to cool my server rig, consistent of a i3-3225 CPU in a SilverStone DS-380 chassis.
> Have not bought the chassis yet, but am collecting good deals on everything else...
> 
> I now have the PSU (SilverStone SFX 300Watt), CPU, RAM (Corsair Low Profile Vengeance 8GB CL9), MB (Gigabyte GA-B75N ITX), SSD (64GB Plextor M3), 2pcs. 2TB Hitachi 5K3000 & 1pcs. Hitachi 5K3000 3TB drives.
> 
> Im looking forward to get the whole thing up and running so I officially can join this "club"


Reminds me of my mum's build (byte sized->see sig)


----------



## Samuelx23

The 620 is an awesome cooler








I was able to reach 5.5ghz with it.

Intel Core i5-2500k
Asus P8P67-M
Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR3 1866Mhz
Antec Kuhler [email protected] 620 Push/Pull with Corsair SP120
Silverstone TJ08-E
XFX Pro 650W
Corsair Force GS 128GB
Hitachi 1TB
Seagate 2TB

http://valid.canardpc.com/udhl2n


----------



## M3TAl

1.7V? Must have been an insanely low ambient temp. No way a 620 will handle that in normal circumstances.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Samuelx23*
> 
> The 620 is an awesome cooler
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I was able to reach 5.5ghz with it.
> 
> Intel Core i5-2500k
> Asus P8P67-M
> Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer DDR3 1866Mhz
> Antec Kuhler [email protected] 620 Push/Pull with Corsair SP120
> Silverstone TJ08-E
> XFX Pro 650W
> Corsair Force GS 128GB
> Hitachi 1TB
> Seagate 2TB
> 
> http://valid.canardpc.com/udhl2n


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> 1.7V? Must have been an insanely low ambient temp. No way a 620 will handle that in normal circumstances.


I swear the recommended was nothing more than 1.55v....at least for Ivy Bridge...
I wouldn't do 1.7 - never.


----------



## M3TAl

Did 1.75v running cinebench on this 8350 but that was with like a 5c ambient and full custom loop lol. A 620 wouldn't even come close.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Did 1.75v running cinebench on this 8350 but that was with like a 5c ambient and full custom loop lol. A 620 wouldn't even come close.


It's not about ambient or any temps - I'm talking about burning the chip - by putting too much voltage through it.
Especially if degradation is a worry.


----------



## Gereti

Ah, got yesterday my watertank, bought used one, 5€+post's
this one http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx
got all stuff what come's on new one's too


----------



## M3TAl

Vishera is built like a tank. As long as you keep temps low then ~1.7V is okay. More stable at lower temps too. Couldn't pass Cinebench at 5.4GHz 1.75V when ambient was around 18C. Freezing weather is a godsend for crazy benches







.

Lots of people have pushed some scary volts on these Visheras and they just keep tickin, maybe Sandy Bridge is different.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Ah, got yesterday my watertank, bought used one, 5€+post's
> this one http://www.swiftech.com/mcresmicrorev2reservoir.aspx
> got all stuff what come's on new one's too


The Swiftech Microres is a wonderful little reservoir, nice find


----------



## Samuelx23

I didn't stress test my processor that time


----------



## nullington

I am thinking of buying an used 920.
How does it hold up over time?
Should i check for something?
Would you buy one?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nullington*
> 
> I am thinking of buying an used 920.
> How does it hold up over time?
> Should i check for something?
> Would you buy one?


How much? It's nice it has a usb controller. There are many versions. I think the latest has improved pump. But the service isn't so nice. A used one has no guarantee whatsoever even when ask nice.


----------



## M3TAl

Antec has great customer service. My 620 is over 2 years old now, still works fine. The 920 I bought used off ocn still works fine too.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Antec has great customer service. My 620 is over 2 years old now, still works fine. The 920 I bought used off ocn still works fine too.


The usb controller is only a few euros.


----------



## M3TAl

Not sure what you mean? I'm stating my experience with both kuhlers, new and used.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Not sure what you mean? I'm stating my experience with both kuhlers, new and used.


I have only one experience with Antec and it wasn't so good?


----------



## drdee

Just to let you all know my intentions with my 620.
I am running an old 775 system that I use for playing around, currently has a E8400 on a P5Q-PRO and was air cooled with a thermaltake (can't remeber the model, giant copper finned monstrosity with central fan lol). This did the job for keeping it cool for overclocking (getting just shy of 4ghtz stable @ 65 degrees loaded). Benchmarks put it inline with Core i3.
I picked up the 620 from a local PC supplier new on special, as I have just purchased a Xeon X5460 (771 to 775 mod as well) to replace the ageing E8400 and am hoping to push that beyond the 4ghtz mark, knowing the Xeon has a lower max temp than the E8400. I am hoping to push this dinosaur up to near Core i5 performance









So will be interested to see how the 620 will perform.
One thing this thread has highlighted that I did not think of myself was to modify the loop if need be for more volume etc. to control temps if I need to.

Great thread!


----------



## Deero

Hello!! just got my 920 recently, I am just wondering if ChillControl VI is compatible with the old 920?
The 920 I own is not a v4 version... Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Hello!! just got my 920 recently, I am just wondering if ChillControl VI is compatible with the old 920?
> The 920 I own is not a v4 version... Thanks


As far as I'm aware the brand new version isn't compatible.
I would stick tot he one that's included really.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Hello!! just got my 920 recently, I am just wondering if ChillControl VI is compatible with the old 920?
> The 920 I own is not a v4 version... Thanks


I was wondering the same thing a few months back, but taking a look at the KÜHLER H2O 920 V4 page now, it actually states
Quote:


> Software *Only compatible with KÜHLER H₂O 920 V4


The original one has been working well for me (I wish they let me change the colors and background!!), but would be nice to try out the new software.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> I was wondering the same thing a few months back, but taking a look at the KÜHLER H2O 920 V4 page now, it actually states
> The original one has been working well for me (I wish they let me change the colors and background!!), but would be nice to try out the new software.


Oh I see, guess I'll just stick with v1.2.
Currently im running the 920 with stock fans Cooling a 6800k and i would say it is really a pain to go extreme mode


----------



## Deero

Just asking for opinion, is there something wrong about the 920 cooler that I have?



I have not done overclocking yet but the temperature of my cpu is already high..


----------



## M3TAl

Your temps are WAY too high. 62C is AMD's max recommended temp and 70C is REALLY pushing it. I believe much higher and you will get a system shut down.

There are a few possible reasons this is happening. You could not have enough pressure between the CPU and cold plate, fix this by well... tightening it more. You could of somehow severely screwed up on TIM application. Maybe somehow the fans on the radiator are not actually running? Or maybe the pump is running dry/near dry?

Those temps are really unacceptable and you would be much better off with the stock cooler. You need to figure out what's causing this and fast. If it's the pump then you should hear a lot of noise coming from it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Agreed, something isn't right there


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Your temps are WAY too high. 62C is AMD's max recommended temp and 70C is REALLY pushing it. I believe much higher and you will get a system shut down.
> 
> There are a few possible reasons this is happening. You could not have enough pressure between the CPU and cold plate, fix this by well... tightening it more. You could of somehow severely screwed up on TIM application. Maybe somehow the fans on the radiator are not actually running? Or maybe the pump is running dry/near dry?
> 
> Those temps are really unacceptable and you would be much better off with the stock cooler. You need to figure out what's causing this and fast. If it's the pump then you should hear a lot of noise coming from it.


I guess I really do not know now whats wrong because the 920 I bought was new, I just installed it yesterday... I used the preapplied paste... I am in misery right now.. T.T

By the way this is my first rig and my first experience with watercooling...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> I guess I really do not know now whats wrong because the 920 I bought was new, I just installed it yesterday... I used the preapplied paste... I am in misery right now.. T.T
> 
> By the way this is my first rig and my first experience with watercooling...


you followed my video in the OP, for installing it? Sounds like the pump isn't receiving enough power or isn't installed properly. It can also be the unit is faulty


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> you followed my video in the OP, for installing it? Sounds like the pump isn't receiving enough power or isn't installed properly. It can also be the unit is faulty


Where can I find that?
Im still new to this forum.
Thanks..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Where can I find that?
> Im still new to this forum.
> Thanks..


op = opening post


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> op = opening post


Thanks...

I positioned my radiator where in the tubes are above.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Where can I find that?
> Im still new to this forum.
> Thanks..


I have a question, in the manual it is said that the long mounting screws are used for amd but in the video the short ones are for amd..
Which ish which? ?


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Thanks...
> 
> I positioned my radiator where in the tubes are above.


The pump may be airlocked. Its better to have the tubes at the bottom. Antec confirmed this to me as well when I asked about it a while back.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> The pump may be airlocked. Its better to have the tubes at the bottom. Antec confirmed this to me as well when I asked about it a while back.


Thanks sir!








I have positioned it in a way where the tubes are at the bottom, I can hear some clicking sound in the block itself now, is this the probable cause of my high cpu temperature (50 C) even at idle?

please help, I do not know what to do anymore...


----------



## spdaimon

You shouldn't hear clicking. Its possible that is just some air in there still. It should quiet down after an hour I'd say. But yes, that is probably the cause of the high temps since its not designed to push air around.


----------



## Deero

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqN_D7Hkx1o

This is my kuhler 920, and by the time that video was taken the cpu temperature was 55 C @ 2.6ghz (a10-6800k)

I under-clocked it because it reaches 65 C @ 4.4ghz...

Update:

What I did so far:
- remount the waterblock (with reapplied themal paste)
- inverted the radiator so that the tubes are now at the bottom (recommended by antec and sir @spdaimon)
- the case was shaken







(I really did it)
- let the cooler run for 3 hrs

What is happening now:



- I can still hear same clicking sound, the same as what was in the video above.
- The liquid temperature is really far from the cpu temperature, if I switch between silent and extreme modes, the cpu temperature never changed.

Should I send the kuhler 920 back?
Just bought it 6 days ago..

Anyways thanks always for the help,


----------



## M3TAl

Thank you for the video. However it's difficult to tell if the sound coming from the pump is very loud or not. That could just be the regular amount of noise. Can you hear it from outside the case at all? Or only when you put your head up real close to it?

Here's the two videos I made for how a Kuhler pump should sound. The volume in my vids is increased so you can actually hear the pump, in real life you can't hear it unless you really put your face up right next to it.










Edit: your liquid temps are in line with how high your CPU temps are. My 920 would typically be 30C+ on the liquid at load. If you really can't get it fixed I would exchange it for another one...

Don't let this incident discourage you from all AIO water coolers. Although rare these things can happen, you just seem to have gotten unlucky this time around.


----------



## Deero

Thanks for the reply sir @M3TAl

My pump is not loud, its just the sound of my 920 pump is not the same with the two videos. The one that I have is currently producing some strange ticking noise, and I guess it is due to airlock. I will try and compare my temperatures tomorrow using my stock HSF vs this 920.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Don't let this incident discourage you from all AIO water coolers. Although rare these things can happen, you just seem to have gotten unlucky this time around.


I guess I might have confused you a little sir, but what I meant for sending back the cooler is for a replacement








I won't let this disappoint me from using AIO water coolers.


----------



## M3TAl

One other trick that works on custom loops/pumps is to clamp the tubing right at the pump down with your finger (might not be possible with this small neoprene tubing without pliers or something) for a few seconds then release. This builds up pressure and can help dislodge air bubbles in custom loop/pump setups.

Not sure if this will work well with an AIO however.


----------



## akafreak

What's the difference between 920 and 920 v4?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *insanity*
> 
> I got an AthlonXP 2500+ Barton here at only 2.21ghz but its because im still on stock hsf
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , Just wanted to know how far people have pushed their's and with what sorta cooling setup


new and incompatible software and better(?) pump.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *akafreak*
> 
> What's the difference between 920 and 920 v4?


new and incompatible software and better(?) pump.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Just asking for opinion, is there something wrong about the 920 cooler that I have?
> 
> 
> 
> I have not done overclocking yet but the temperature of my cpu is already high..


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Your temps are WAY too high. 62C is AMD's max recommended temp and 70C is REALLY pushing it. I believe much higher and you will get a system shut down.


Hey guys, take a look at this xbitlab article page on the A10 6800K, http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-a10-6800k_9.html#sect0 , and also the temps on the stats shot.
Quote:


> Besides, the screenshot shows that the manufacturer has finally managed to make the internal thermal sensor work more or less correctly. It now reports a true-to-life value for the APU die temperature. By the way, *the peak permissible temperature for the A10-6800K is 120°C*, so our overclocking was limited by the cooler's performance. As opposed to the Haswell, the temperature of the A10-6800K correlates directly with its heat dissipation, so replacing the cooler with a higher-performance one would have helped us reach higher clock rates.


----------



## Deero

[quote name="stevv" url="/t/990111/official-antec-k-hler-h2o-620-920-owners-club/amd-a10-6800khtml#sect0
[/quote]

Wow, those temperatures are hot, but my system crashes by the time I reached a 102 c....


----------



## Deero

Ok now I guess my kuhler 920 is working because compared to the temperature of my stock HSF, it is really far, but I guess the temperature that my cpu got using the kuhler 920 is still hot.

I don't know now if this is the limit of performance of kuhler 920 or mine is just faulty. Or maybe my cpu has a problem









My kuhler 920:



Stock Heat-sink Fan



Anyways, thank you for always helping..


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> Hey guys, take a look at this xbitlab article page on the A10 6800K, http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-a10-6800k_9.html#sect0 , and also the temps on the stats shot.


That's really odd because that goes against any AMD chip since Deneb I've ever used or seen around here on the forums. Not only that but the 6800K is in the Piledriver family, same as 8350, so it should be the same as an 8350 for the most part.

Also odd because I've never seen the core temp be higher than TMPIN3 (usually socket temp) on any recent AMD chip. Either the program was having problems reporting proper temps with Richland/6800K or AMD changed the way the sensor reports/works entirely...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Ok now I guess my kuhler 920 is working because compared to the temperature of my stock HSF, it is really far, but I guess the temperature that my cpu got using the kuhler 920 is still hot.
> 
> I don't know now if this is the limit of performance of kuhler 920 or mine is just faulty. Or maybe my cpu has a problem
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My kuhler 920:
> 
> 
> 
> Stock Heat-sink Fan
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, thank you for always helping..


120c !?!?!?!?!
Holy mother of god - dude don't do that.

Looks like something is up with the voltage you're pumping through - go check AMD OC guides and make sure you're doing it right.
Thermal limit for AMD I think is around 70c - you're WELL ABOVE IT in both screenshots.
If you continue that, you'll fry your CPU

Also use CORE TEMP or REAL TEMP to monitor temps.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> 120c !?!?!?!?!
> Holy mother of god - dude don't do that.
> 
> Looks like something is up with the voltage you're pumping through - go check AMD OC guides and make sure you're doing it right.
> Thermal limit for AMD I think is around 70c - you're WELL ABOVE IT in both screenshots.
> If you continue that, you'll fry your CPU
> 
> Also use CORE TEMP or REAL TEMP to monitor temps.


Thanks man, ill try those out next time, I have not done overclocking, the cpu clock was just 2ghz...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Thanks man, ill try those out next time, I have not done overclocking, the cpu clock was just 2ghz...


then something isn't right- are you sure you've put thermal past and/or mounted it properly?


----------



## M3TAl

Only thing I can think of is massive air stuck in the pump.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> then something isn't right- are you sure you've put thermal past and/or mounted it properly?


Yes, i have remounted it three times, i used the line method for applying the paste... I sent back the cooler, and i guess ill have to wait for their diagnostics whether the kuhler 920 is really faulty or not.. Ill update you guys as soon as they update me..

As always, thank you for always helping..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Yes, i have remounted it three times, i used the line method for applying the paste... I sent back the cooler, and i guess ill have to wait for their diagnostics whether the kuhler 920 is really faulty or not.. Ill update you guys as soon as they update me..
> 
> As always, thank you for always helping..


Great - let me know how that return goes.
STOCK fan shouldn't go that high either - so something is telling me something isn't right.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Great - let me know how that return goes.
> STOCK fan shouldn't go that high either - so something is telling me something isn't right.


I agree, but I could not figure put what was wrong, I hope my argument will be accepted and they will send me a new one..
If they ask me what happened to this cooler I could just say one thing, and that is my temperatures are high when using that cooler..

Thanks for the reply..


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> I agree, but I could not figure put what was wrong, I hope my argument will be accepted and they will send me a new one..
> If they ask me what happened to this cooler I could just say one thing, and that is my temperatures are high when using that cooler..
> 
> Thanks for the reply..


Indeed - but why are your stock fan temps ridiculously high?
If you aren't OC'ed then temps should never come close to your thermal limit - try watching my installation guide - and see if you missed anything.
As it's clear your STOCK fan temps are beyond insane - and your antec temps are high - but they are over 50c difference between the stock fan and the antec.
So I think the Antec is doing its job - something else is wrong however.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Indeed - but why are your stock fan temps ridiculously high?
> If you aren't OC'ed then temps should never come close to your thermal limit - try watching my installation guide - and see if you missed anything.
> As it's clear your STOCK fan temps are beyond insane - and your antec temps are high - but they are over 50c difference between the stock fan and the antec.
> So I think the Antec is doing its job - something else is wrong however.


Yeah you're right, I'll try to use the pea method this time in applying the thermal paste.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Indeed - but why are your stock fan temps ridiculously high?
> ...something else is wrong however.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Wow, those temperatures are hot, but my system crashes by the time I reached a 102 c....


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> ... Either the program was having problems reporting proper temps with Richland/6800K or AMD changed the way the sensor reports/works entirely...


I'm assuming the heatsinks are properly on, as you system would have crashed long before even reaching "100+ degrees". Possibly just reading the wrong temps due to the changes in Richland temp sensors. Mobo and APU combo might be confusing the temp. software. Updated mobo firmware? Looks like there are others (unless it's your posting) out there and reviewers with the same issue.

http://www.bjorn3d.com/2013/06/amd-richland-june-5-2013-1201am-edt-nda/
Quote:


> The Richland incorporate temperature sensors on the chip to provide more accurate calculation of the of the APU power consumption which allows it to further fine-tuning the frequency and voltage plot to optimize the efficiency of the chip. Additionally, the power consumption can be better managed so that it can throttle the CPU or the GPU appropriately depending on the workload. As a result, AMD is able to improve upon the performance of its existing chip by balancing the workloads between the CPU and the GPU.


http://www.overclockers.com/amd-richland-a106800k-apu-review/
Quote:


> As a side note: If you remember back to the Trinity review we brought you last year, we complained about the lack of any meaningful temperature monitoring. It seems an attempt was made to fix that problem, but it'll be hit and miss as to what utility can read the temperatures correctly. Luckily, the latest version of AIDA64 seems to be up to the task as you can tell by the picture above and the picture below.


http://www.geeks3d.com/20131223/unboxing-and-test-amd-a10-6800k-apu-radeon-hd-8670d-asrock-fm2a88m-extreme4/
Quote:


> 3 - Monitoring Utilities
> 
> A word on monitoring. I must that it was not easy to find an utility that correctly monitors the A10-6800K. I tested several tools (CoreTemp, SpeedFan, HWMonitor, GPU-Z, Speccy) and I finally found the ultimate combination: Speccy + GPU-Z:


http://www.overclock.net/t/1424416/amd-a10-6800k-temperatures-what-monitor-do-i-believe
http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=483&threadid=168844
http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=483&threadid=169215


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> I'm assuming the heatsinks are properly on, as you system would have crashed long before even reaching "100+ degrees". Possibly just reading the wrong temps due to the changes in Richland temp sensors. Mobo and APU combo might be confusing the temp. software. Updated mobo firmware? Looks like there are others (unless it's your posting) out there and reviewers with the same issue.
> 
> http://www.bjorn3d.com/2013/06/amd-richland-june-5-2013-1201am-edt-nda/
> http://www.overclockers.com/amd-richland-a106800k-apu-review/
> http://www.geeks3d.com/20131223/unboxing-and-test-amd-a10-6800k-apu-radeon-hd-8670d-asrock-fm2a88m-extreme4/
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1424416/amd-a10-6800k-temperatures-what-monitor-do-i-believe
> http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=483&threadid=168844
> http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=483&threadid=169215


Great post +rep.
That's why i suggested to him to use REAL TEMP or CORE TEMP


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1424416/amd-a10-6800k-temperatures-what-monitor-do-i-believe
> http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=483&threadid=168844
> http://forums.amd.com/game/messageview.cfm?catid=483&threadid=169215


These people really made me at ease, at least now I know that I am not alone.

Now that I have some ideas about this, I am now very nervous as to what the store service center would say about my "faulty" kuhler h2o 920.

I'm screwed.









Anyways, thanks for helping...


----------



## celes7ial

Hi guys! Wanted to go some modding of my Zalman LQ310 (same as yours Antec 620) but don't know which ID & OD tubes to use. Somebody, please, help me with info (ID, OD) about tubing and about how good it all fits together (overtightening of clamps? overall loosy IDs?)
And if anyone tried that: can this pump handle miniitx watercooling loop (cpu + fullcover r9 280x + alphacool monsta) or I should search for another solution with a dedicated pump?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> These people really made me at ease, at least now I know that I am not alone.
> 
> Now that I have some ideas about this, I am now very nervous as to what the store service center would say about my "faulty" kuhler h2o 920.
> 
> I'm screwed.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Anyways, thanks for helping...


Can you get core temp or real temp (they're free!) and then check?


----------



## M3TAl

OD doesn't really matter, pick any OD that suites your taste. The ID matters of course so that it will fit properly on the barbs. The original ID is 1/4"

I don't think core temp or real temp are very popular for AMD. The hands down best for AMD is HWiNFO64. The only real down side to it is that it shows TONS of info and takes time customizing the layout if you wish to do so.

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *PB4UGO*
> 
> to the few posters above, i have a couple of points to address.
> -the 620/920s are designed to be mounted in any orientation. straight from the horses mouth at Antec.
> -shaking the radiator will get the air bubbles out and quiet the pump regardless of orientation, and is always a good first move when running it for the first time. not sure why they don't put it in their instructions.
> -for those who have modded their Antecs by adding a reservior like the Swiftech Micro, orientation only matters during filling/maintenence of water. see photo below. after many tests, i have my reservoir directly in the middle of the flow, with the rad in/out at the highest point and pump in/out at the lowest point. and even though i looped the hoses for decorative purposes, the pump is handling it very well. when filling/maintaining, all i do it pull out the res and lift it to the highest point.. takes less than 10 minutes for a full water change this way.
> 
> since the photo was taken, i've gone from *1/4" ID* tube to 3/8" ID tube...again, more for looks.


----------



## Deero

Good day!!

As promised here is a screenshot of the performance of my kuhler 920 in the shop where i bought it.



They have it cooling a 3rd gen i5, I did not ask if its a k or not because they said they did not overclocked their system.

So, what do you think? Are these numbers alright?

Thanks


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Can you get core temp or real temp (they're free!) and then check?


Now I have tested some software as a temperature sensor and here are the results:

Prime95 for 5min



I set the motherboard to alarm at 70 C, using speccy the temperature was 93 C but the motherboard did not alarm, from the website which Mr @stevv gave me that the TMPIN2 is the CPU core temp using the HWMonitor. It seems that the HWMonitor is the one that is right because the moment TMPIN2 reached 70 C, the motherboard beeped.

I installed CoreTemp and RealTemp but the CoreTemp was eating up all my RAM, about 5gb and yet showing 0 C. On the other hand it seems that RealTemp is intel exclusive so no chance of running it at all.

As always thanks for helping.


----------



## M3TAl

Can you try HWiNFO too? http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php

I just don't know what to make of this... The Intel temps seem normal. All I can think is the sensor in your 6800K is reading wrong or possibly broken?

TMPIN2 is a motherboard sensor and typically the socket temp (motherboard socket) which correlates directly with CPU core temp. 69C for TMPIN2 at full load is normal.

Right now running Prime95 large FFT on my 8350 and Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 I'm getting 41C on core and 52C on TMPIN2. Obviously I have a full custom water loop so my temps will be lower compared to a Kuhler 920.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Can you try HWiNFO too? http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
> 
> I just don't know what to make of this... The Intel temps seem normal. All I can think is the sensor in your 6800K is reading wrong or possibly broken?
> 
> TMPIN2 is a motherboard sensor and typically the socket temp (motherboard socket) which correlates directly with CPU core temp. 69C for TMPIN2 at full load is normal.
> 
> Right now running Prime95 large FFT on my 8350 and Gigabyte 990FXA-UD3 I'm getting 41C on core and 52C on TMPIN2. Obviously I have a full custom water loop so my temps will be lower compared to a Kuhler 920.


Ooops, sorry I forgot to tell that I was using stock cooler, I'll update again when my 920 returns.


----------



## M3TAl

I assumed you were using the stock cooler so honestly we were wrong considering the crazy high temps you're still getting for CPU core. Your 920 seems to be fine. However the temp reporting for your 6800K is nothing less of odd. I just don't know if that is normal for most 6800K's or not.

You might want to ask about 6800K temp software in the 6800K thread. http://www.overclock.net/t/1347709/amd-richland-a10-6800k-apu-thread/1260

Another option is AMD's own program Overdrive. This will show you a thermal margin instead of an actual core temp. If it shows 20C then that means you're 20C from the thermal limit. If it shows 10C then your CPU is running hotter than before and is now 10C away from the limit. http://download.amd.com/Desktop/aod_setup_4.3.1.exe


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I assumed you were using the stock cooler so honestly we were wrong considering the crazy high temps you're still getting for CPU core. Your 920 seems to be fine. However the temp reporting for your 6800K is nothing less of odd. I just don't know if that is normal for most 6800K's or not.
> 
> You might want to ask about 6800K temp software in the 6800K thread. http://www.overclock.net/t/1347709/amd-richland-a10-6800k-apu-thread/1260
> 
> Another option is AMD's own program Overdrive. This will show you a thermal margin instead of an actual core temp. If it shows 20C then that means you're 20C from the thermal limit. If it shows 10C then your CPU is running hotter than before and is now 10C away from the limit. http://download.amd.com/Desktop/aod_setup_4.3.1.exe


Thanks!! I'll try those later when I reach home.


----------



## kimpoy18

any news on the driver issue? I bought mine last april 2014 on sale and its working well. But i didnt install the software because of some driver issues in the USB. I've tried all the possible solutions posted here. Got tired and frustrated working on that. Btw i got an antec 920. If someone could help me on this I would be grateful.


----------



## Deero

My kuhler 920 is no currently being shipped back to me, but the problem is that it does not have those 2 black rubber double sided tape for mounting the back plate.

Any alternatives?

Thanks


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Good day!!
> 
> As promised here is a screenshot of the performance of my kuhler 920 in the shop where i bought it.
> 
> 
> 
> They have it cooling a 3rd gen i5, I did not ask if its a k or not because they said they did not overclocked their system.
> 
> So, what do you think? Are these numbers alright?
> 
> Thanks


Those temps look normal for a stock i5 with an Antec920 on it
Maybe a little on the high side - but still normal nevertheless - thermal limit for IB/HW is 105c

You NEED to find your thermal limit - I would urge you to start looking around for AMD OC'ing guides - mainly for your CHIP.
If you're hitting 80c, whilst your thermal limit is 105c - that's totally fine.
If however your thermal limit is 50c - something isn't right.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Now I have tested some software as a temperature sensor and here are the results:
> 
> Prime95 for 5min
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah that looks fine - btu again, check your thermal limits, I have no idea about AMD chips.
> 
> I set the motherboard to alarm at 70 C, using speccy the temperature was 93 C but the motherboard did not alarm, from the website which Mr @stevv gave me that the TMPIN2 is the CPU core temp using the HWMonitor. It seems that the HWMonitor is the one that is right because the moment TMPIN2 reached 70 C, the motherboard beeped.
> 
> I installed CoreTemp and RealTemp but the CoreTemp was eating up all my RAM, about 5gb and yet showing 0 C. On the other hand it seems that RealTemp is intel exclusive so no chance of running it at all.
> 
> As always thanks for helping.


HWmon is fine









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kimpoy18*
> 
> any news on the driver issue? I bought mine last april 2014 on sale and its working well. But i didnt install the software because of some driver issues in the USB. I've tried all the possible solutions posted here. Got tired and frustrated working on that. Btw i got an antec 920. If someone could help me on this I would be grateful.


There was a known problem with the USB + driver, which caused an issue.
Might be related to that? Email Antec see what they say - if they haven't gotten back to you, send our antec rep on OCN a PM - let me know how you get on!








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> My kuhler 920 is no currently being shipped back to me, but the problem is that it does not have those 2 black rubber double sided tape for mounting the back plate.
> 
> Any alternatives?
> 
> Thanks


You don't have to worry about it - just don't tape it on.
Mine isn't taped on - I actually prefer it without the strip - as it doesn't leave residue on the motherboard.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Can you try HWiNFO too? http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Another option is AMD's own program Overdrive. This will show you a thermal margin instead of an actual core temp. If it shows 20C then that means you're 20C from the thermal limit. If it shows 10C then your CPU is running hotter than before and is now 10C away from the limit. http://download.amd.com/Desktop/aod_setup_4.3.1.exe


Here are some screenshots using amd overdrive and HWiNFO

Prime 95 for 5 min.



compared to the last one, these showed lower temps because I guess reapplied the thermal paste in pea method.

I have another question, what thermal paste do you recommend on applying when using the kuhler 920?

anywas, thanks for helping.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Here are some screenshots using amd overdrive and HWiNFO
> 
> Prime 95 for 5 min.
> 
> 
> 
> compared to the last one, these showed lower temps because I guess reapplied the thermal paste in pea method.
> 
> I have another question, what thermal paste do you recommend on applying when using the kuhler 920?
> 
> anywas, thanks for helping.


That's with the stock cooler right - not the 920?
Either/or seems ok - but *YOU HAVE TO GIVE US THE THERMAL LIMITS OF YOUR CHIP*

As for method - depends on your CPU - again, look that up.
For Ivy and haswell - tiny line method is the best - due to the shape and form of the die.
Some would disagree - but after various tests myself, that was the BEST method for Intel 3rd and 4th gen CPUs


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> That's with the stock cooler right - not the 920?


Yes, it is the stock cooler, but I will update as soon as the 920 arrives
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Either/or seems ok - but *YOU HAVE TO GIVE US THE THERMAL LIMITS OF YOUR CHIP*


According to this site, the peak permissible temperature for the A10-6800K is 120°C but I guess I do not need this anymore because the amd overdrive shows the thermal margin which shows how many degrees more before I reach my thermal limit and by far is the most accurate compared to what I have used. Thanks to Mr @M3TAl for suggesting it.

http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cpu/display/amd-a10-6800k_9.html

Edit:

Seems it is 90 C because when I reached that temperature, the thermal margin in the amd overdrive turned 0 C so it seems 90 C is the right figure.


----------



## lachatteamcdoom

Hello folks,

I'm Having a problem with my Kuhler 620 and I was wondering if I could get any help here.

So I bought my Kuhler 620 in May 2012, and it has been working well so far.
I recently bought a new computer case in order to make a more silent build. For this purpose I also bought a Noctua NF-F12 PWM to replace to factory fan that was on my Kuhler.

Except, it doesnt work. The fan is not spinning, and I can hear a noise like if something was blocking the fan.
So i did some testing with the fan. I works everywhere but with the Kuhler 620.
I tested a Fractal Design Fan with the Kuhler, and it works, the factory fan works also. I tested with Noctua NF-S12A FLX, and here again, the fan are not spinning.

So do you have any idea on what can be the issue?
Thank you verry much


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lachatteamcdoom*
> 
> Hello folks,
> 
> I'm Having a problem with my Kuhler 620 and I was wondering if I could get any help here.
> 
> So I bought my Kuhler 620 in May 2012, and it has been working well so far.
> I recently bought a new computer case in order to make a more silent build. For this purpose I also bought a Noctua NF-F12 PWM to replace to factory fan that was on my Kuhler.
> 
> Except, it doesnt work. The fan is not spinning, and I can hear a noise like if something was blocking the fan.
> So i did some testing with the fan. I works everywhere but with the Kuhler 620.
> I tested a Fractal Design Fan with the Kuhler, and it works, the factory fan works also. I tested with Noctua NF-S12A FLX, and here again, the fan are not spinning.
> 
> So do you have any idea on what can be the issue?
> Thank you verry much


could be due to the pin structure -> 3 pin PWM etc
I would just plug your Noctua into the motherboard and have it on the radiator


----------



## lachatteamcdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> could be due to the pin structure -> 3 pin PWM etc
> I would just plug your Noctua into the motherboard and have it on the radiator


Yes that would work, but then the fan is not regulated for the CPU but for the case in general. Im afraid of the CPU running to hot while gaming otherwise... :-/

As for the 3pin & PWM, the 2 Noctua NF-S12A FLX i tested with the Kuhler are not PWN and are not working when pluged to the Kuhler.
Even with a "3pin adaptor" it works when its pluged to the motherboard, but not when it is pluged to the Kuhler.

I'm guessing that the Kuhler system is not giving enough power to the Fan. Is there a way to force it to give more power?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lachatteamcdoom*
> 
> Yes that would work, but then the fan is not regulated for the CPU but for the case in general. Im afraid of the CPU running to hot while gaming otherwise... :-/
> 
> As for the 3pin & PWM, the 2 Noctua NF-S12A FLX i tested with the Kuhler are not PWN and are not working when pluged to the Kuhler.
> Even with a "3pin adaptor" it works when its pluged to the motherboard, but not when it is pluged to the Kuhler.
> 
> I'm guessing that the Kuhler system is not giving enough power to the Fan. Is there a way to force it to give more power?


No idea unfortunately - as for the "case fans" - well I have BOTH my rad fans in a "case fan" section - then via the BIOS I just regulate the fans to ramp at certain levels. Absolutely no problems.


----------



## M3TAl

Glad you like Overdrive Deero. Considering AMD made the software it should be trustworthy and accurate.

Weird that the fan won't work connected to the kuhler... Shouldn't be a power issue. All fans run at 12V. Unless the kuhler puts out a low starting voltage, fans do have a minimum starting voltage.

Do other fans work when connected to the 620?

-sent from my Windows Phone


----------



## lachatteamcdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Glad you like Overdrive Deero. Considering AMD made the software it should be trustworthy and accurate.
> 
> Weird that the fan won't work connected to the kuhler... Shouldn't be a power issue. All fans run at 12V. Unless the kuhler puts out a low starting voltage, fans do have a minimum starting voltage.
> 
> Do other fans work when connected to the 620?
> 
> -sent from my Windows Phone


Antec Factory Fan and Fractal Design Fan work
Noctua NF-S12A FLX and Noctua NF-F12 PWM won't work.

I find it very weird too. Especially because I see many people running noctua fans on it.
I'm not very at ease with BIOS and stuff, but I could not find any option to "regulate the fan ramp"

*EDIT:*
Some more interesting information
It seems that it is the plug "CPU FAN" that is not giving enough power to the pump. I pluged the pump into "CHA_FAN" and Kuhler + Noctua now work like charm.
I also won 5-10°C by doing this, I guess the was not enough power even for the pump itself. Does this meen my CPU FAN is "broken"?
When i plug the factory fan on CPU FAN, it goes full speed...


----------



## M3TAl

Hmm. One of the fans being PWM shouldn't matter. My PWM Cougar Vortexes worked on the 620 and 920.

You shouldn't want to use the NF-S12A fan really though. That fan looks optimized for airflow when there's little restriction and not high static pressure (what you want in a rad fan). The NF-F12 definitely looks more optimized for static pressure, think Linus is obsessed with those fans for rads?

What motherboard are you using? You trying to control PWM on the motherboard?


----------



## kimpoy18

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> There was a known problem with the USB + driver, which caused an issue.
> Might be related to that? Email Antec see what they say - if they haven't gotten back to you, send our antec rep on OCN a PM - let me know how you get on!


Thanks buddy! Will do this and I hope they can help me.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Glad you like Overdrive Deero. Considering AMD made the software it should be trustworthy and accurate.
> Quote:
> 
> 
> 
> I agree, from now on I will be using this program and have it cross reference with the HWMonitor..
Click to expand...


----------



## lachatteamcdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Hmm. One of the fans being PWM shouldn't matter. My PWM Cougar Vortexes worked on the 620 and 920.
> 
> You shouldn't want to use the NF-S12A fan really though. That fan looks optimized for airflow when there's little restriction and not high static pressure (what you want in a rad fan). The NF-F12 definitely looks more optimized for static pressure, think Linus is obsessed with those fans for rads?
> 
> What motherboard are you using? You trying to control PWM on the motherboard?


Yes, I use NF-S12A for Airflow, I used them here with the Kuhler 620 just for testing.

My Motherboard is ASUS P8Z77-M PRO.
Intel 3570k
GTX 770
3 fans + Kuhler 620
1 HDD
1 Optical drive
Power supply is Corsaire CX600

I just turned my computer on, and now no matter where I plug the Kuhler, the Fan won't start (and there is this little noise with the pump).

I see 3 options: The Kuhler is broken somehow, the Motherboard is not giving enough power, the power supply is too low.


----------



## stevv

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lachatteamcdoom*
> 
> Yes, I use NF-S12A for Airflow, I used them here with the Kuhler 620 just for testing.
> 
> My Motherboard is ASUS P8Z77-M PRO.
> Intel 3570k
> GTX 770
> 3 fans + Kuhler 620
> 1 HDD
> 1 Optical drive
> Power supply is Corsaire CX600
> 
> I just turned my computer on, and now no matter where I plug the Kuhler, the Fan won't start (and there is this little noise with the pump).
> 
> I see 3 options: The Kuhler is broken somehow, the Motherboard is not giving enough power, the power supply is too low.


Manually put set the fans to 100% in bios where the Khuler is plugged in. If I remember correctly, that was also a suggested thing to do in the manual.

btw, khuler + 3 fans?


----------



## lachatteamcdoom

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *stevv*
> 
> Manually put set the fans to 100% in bios where the Khuler is plugged in. If I remember correctly, that was also a suggested thing to do in the manual.
> 
> btw, khuler + 3 fans?


Running a total of 3 fans in addition of the Kuhler 620 (just for information if it was relevant regarding power consumption)

I tried everything, the fan just will not start if pluged in the Kuhler 620
In the end, I pluged the Pump to a Molex (Molex fan controller), and the Noctua NF-F12 PWM in the "CUP_FAN"

But still, I need to turn the regulator at max in order to get the pump actually pumping "well enough".
Mystery Mystery...


----------



## Deero

Good day!

As promised here is a screenshot of my kuhler 920 that just recently came back.








I'm using the stock antec fans at the moment but I plan to use sp 120 pwm in the future.

Prime95 15 min.

Proc: A10-6800k
Mobo: G1.Sniper A88X



As always thanks for helping.





































Update:

I have overclocked my processor to 4.7 ghz @ 1.42V and a temperature of 20 C thermal margin, I did not expect it to be cooler because of my place which is hot.


----------



## M3TAl

Nice OC, that's more like it


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Deero*
> 
> Good day!
> 
> As promised here is a screenshot of my kuhler 920 that just recently came back.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm using the stock antec fans at the moment but I plan to use sp 120 pwm in the future.
> 
> Prime95 15 min.
> 
> Proc: A10-6800k
> Mobo: G1.Sniper A88X
> 
> 
> 
> As always thanks for helping.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Update:
> 
> I have overclocked my processor to 4.7 ghz @ 1.42V and a temperature of 20 C thermal margin, I did not expect it to be cooler because of my place which is hot.


Glad to see everything is resolved - all came down to software in the end.


----------



## Deero

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Glad to see everything is resolved - all came down to software in the end.


Yeah, next time I should read more threads before acting.


----------



## Gereti

Allright, what you guy's think, i get 15e+post's leaking 620 with allmost broken intel kit and without fan's

i was planning, to (maby) make 3x120mm rad+gpu+cpu cooled matx build with those maby, if i'm not too lazy


----------



## Gereti

Huhuhaha!

this is going to be interesting, now i have

100x 3.5/145 sniptie's
4 metres fresh new clear tubing
3x120mm asetek kuhler 620 rad
2x kuhler 620 pump/block unit's
swiftech tiny watertank

Asus crosshair V -z amd mobo
960T phenom II x4 CPU
VTX3D Radeon 7870 Ref cooled graphics card (*or then i use my 6970)
some sp120 fan's from h80i
and, rosewill ranger case

this, look's like interesting project to me


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Nice!


----------



## revo83

what is the measure of hose did you use?
thank you


----------



## revo83

what is the measure of hose did you use?
thank you


----------



## M3TAl

The stock tubing is 1/4" Inner Diameter.

EDIT: Some of you may find this interesting







Competing in my 2nd HWBOT Rookie Rumble for AMD. Gotta keep things cool for those crazy high voltage/clock runs.

Didn't quite have enough ice, kept melting haha. Was around 18C on the core in BIOS.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The stock tubing is 1/4" Inner Diameter.
> 
> EDIT: Some of you may find this interesting
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Competing in my 2nd HWBOT Rookie Rumble for AMD. Gotta keep things cool for those crazy high voltage/clock runs.
> 
> Didn't quite have enough ice, kept melting haha. Was around 18C on the core in BIOS.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


haha so cool.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

haha epic!


----------



## revo83

I have a antec h20 920, and I want to change the hoses, and was wondering what is the measure I need to buy? thank you


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revo83*
> 
> what is the measure of hose did you use?
> thank you


Me?, i'm not sure but it was maby 8/10mm tubing, haven't builded this thing yeat becose i have been busy


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *revo83*
> 
> I have a antec h20 920, and I want to change the hoses, and was wondering what is the measure I need to buy? thank you


1/4" ID, I get mine from local hardware stores like home depot or lowes.


----------



## 3az00z

Hello, I'm having problems with my Antec Kühler H2O 620,
When i first bought it and installed My idle temp went 23 and 100% load was 56 and that was superb for me, after 6 months now my idle temp goes 46 and on full load it passes the TJMAX of my AMD Phenom II x6 Which is 71 degrees Celsius, it went to 76,
i changed the Thermal compound and cleaned dust off but nothing good, any recommendations?


----------



## M3TAl

Is there any abnormal noise coming from the pump? What thermal compound did you use?


----------



## X79ROG1




----------



## X79ROG1

Will submit better pic upgraded tubing to 3/8 clear with swiftech coolant and coolermaster 120 fans in a push pull configuration


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looks good!


----------



## grunion

Gotta say I love my 920, still chugging away keeping my 4670k in check.
Trying to remember how long i've had it.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *grunion*
> 
> Gotta say I love my 920, still chugging away keeping my 4670k in check.
> Trying to remember how long i've had it.


same here - still using my 920 - and loving it


----------



## X79ROG1

@Totallydubbed...thanks, it was the first time my 9 year old son was hands on with modding part of his computer, he wanted to be more like dad, asked him to come up with something based on his resources and that was the end product after extensive trial and error and leak testing. As of right now running i5-2500k @ 4.8 stable 28-33c based on room temp this time of year. The mod was done back in February


----------



## M3TAl

How did you get 3/8 tubing on the stock barbs to not leak???


----------



## X79ROG1

leave the existing reducers in place by warming them with a heat gun then hose barb in the new tubingand reheat, yes tubing from depot, no abnormal...noise we did experience during testing was due to excessive air in the lines, sounds like a rototiller hitting stones for lack of a better example. the remedy for this is more coolant is needed the noise will cease, unfortunately air is the #1 killer of pumps in water cooling.


----------



## 3az00z

Using cooler master IC Essential E2, and no it's still silent.... Anyhow, after changing the thermal compound it didn't change anything, the temp is still the same.... so i think it's not the compound.... may i ask, what type of liquid is inside? and may i change it? probably those questions are answered in the past 569 pages but that's a lot to read, Thanks for replying.


----------



## M3TAl

I don't know the exact liquid type but it is some kind of water/glycol mix I think. Making physical modifications or changing the liquid will void the warranty.


----------



## 3az00z

So, what do you think i should do? I'm freezing right here, i got an air conditioner focused on my case and i can't keep doing this for a long time


----------



## M3TAl

Probably have to RMA it. Don't see why temps would increase so much if pump is working fine.


----------



## Badesh

I own the Antec 620 and for a year it was as silent as it can get. now the pump is really annoying.









Price and performance is still awesome in my small itx case though.

what buggs me the most is that the noise is not constant but seems to vibrate - always grabs my attention...

i just don't trust any compact watercooling solution any more, because you hear similar complaints for almost every product across all price ranges.

still curious about the small nzxt kraken x40, albeit it's probably still too big for my coolermaster elite 130.


----------



## 3az00z

RMA? I'm sorry I'm newbie to this forum... I don't know what does it mean


----------



## M3TAl

Return Merchandise Authorization. Basically either try to get it replaced from the store you purchased it from (if still possible) or get it replaced by Antec.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

I agree and thanks for replying M3!


----------



## 3az00z

Alright, will do..... Thanks man =)


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *3az00z*
> 
> RMA? I'm sorry I'm newbie to this forum... I don't know what does it mean


If you want to RMA your unit, please create a login ID and submit a tech support ticket on this link:

http://support.antec.com/helpdesk

Once we have received your ticket, we will provide you a detailed instructions on the RMA process


----------



## nicefinly

If you RMA. Be prepared to wait over a year and get a ton of run-around. I would simply buy another cooler from another manufacturer instead, and count it as a loss.

I'm about to post a separate thread asking for help and/or to call out Antec on this in a few minutes.

EDITED with link to a lengthy post on my experience.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1498821/antec-rma-lost-cause-almost-1-year-later-even-ncix-is-being-given-the-run-around-by-antec-you-all-have-been-warned


----------



## M3TAl

My friend @spikezone2004 RMA'ed his 620. Was an easy hassle free process for him took maybe 1.5-2weeks.


----------



## nicefinly

Back when they were still manufacturing the 620's, that may have been the case.

I RMA'd a 920 when they stopped manufacturing, and still haven't received a replacement 950.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicefinly*
> 
> Back when they were still manufacturing the 620's, that may have been the case.
> 
> I RMA'd a 920 when they stopped manufacturing, and still haven't received a replacement 950.


I've contacted them for you bro - let's hope you get a 950 with no fuss.


----------



## nicefinly

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I've contacted them for you bro - let's hope you get a 950 with no fuss.


Just following up. Thanks, I think we finally have some action on the other thread.


----------



## Leito360

What kind of degradation could suffer a closed loop system cooler like the 920?


----------



## M3TAl

What do you mean by degradation exactly?


----------



## Leito360

The radiator/pump suffering from aging/any type of maintenance you need to give to the cooling system, etc.


----------



## M3TAl

These AIO's are zero maintenance. Will they last forever? No, nothing does. But you have a 3 year warranty. Eventually the pump will die but that should take anywhere from 5-10 years depending on use.

Evaporation of the liquid is also a concern... Nothing you can do about that except RMA or open it up and refill yourself (voiding your warranty in the process).


----------



## SinatraFan

How do you know when it's time to call in the warranty? My computer lately has been consistently running higher temps, (+20 C ) from what it was doing 6 months ago and now the pump is rattling. I bought the 920 kit on Oct 2012. The pump is still working, but she's getting noisy, whereas before, she was whisper quiet. Should I be contacting Antec???


----------



## M3TAl

20C higher temps and noisy pump? Time to call Antec. Could either be evaporation (not enough liquid in there so air bubble) or the pump itself having problems. Have you tried tilting things around incase it's an air bubble?

Pumps are a concern with any water system, custom or AIO. Most of the custom pumps (mostly Laing made) just happen to be really high quality stuff (and expensive) and it's usually rare for them to have problems.


----------



## SinatraFan

I think you're right. I'm going to ring them first thing tomorrow. I guess I have to get all my data transferred over to my cube build this weekend as I assume this rig will be down for a while waiting on an RMA


----------



## SinatraFan

Just contacted Antec and explained the scenario. They responded immediately with an RMA. I'm impressed so far.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SinatraFan*
> 
> Just contacted Antec and explained the scenario. They responded immediately with an RMA. I'm impressed so far.


Antec is actually real good with RMA from what I've seen. Quick and responsive. But then I did have an issue with their RMA, they lost mine haha. They did ship it quick to me after I called in couple weeks later and was like wheres my fan at?


----------



## SinatraFan

Just removed my 920 and installed my temp cooler... Thermaltake Water 2.0 Pro, and the temps dropped back down to the high 30s and low 40s. So for sure, my 920 was failing. Mailing it back to Antec tomorrow.


----------



## M3TAl

Doesn't the TT Water 2.0 out perform the 920? Your temps might increase a few degrees when you get that replacement 920


----------



## Anusha

I bought the 620 about 3 years ago I guess. I didn't use it for the last two years as I bought a better air cooler. Now I'm back on the Kuhler but with a new CPU too. 4790K. [email protected] I'm hitting 90C with the x264 stress test. No prime or anything serious.

1) could the cooler has gone bad as it wasn't used for a couple of years? Like corrosion? Or coolant going bad?

2) the blue feet or spacers are cracked due to pressure and maybe not giving good enough pressure anymore.

Or maybe this cooler is just too old. I'm not hearing any weird noises from the pump. There is a good bit of heat coming from the exhaust as well. Perhaps the cooler is fine but it's just not enough to cool this particular CPU?


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> I bought the 620 about 3 years ago I guess. I didn't use it for the last two years as I bought a better air cooler. Now I'm back on the Kuhler but with a new CPU too. 4790K. [email protected] I'm hitting 90C with the x264 stress test. No prime or anything serious.
> 
> 1) could the cooler has gone bad as it wasn't used for a couple of years? Like corrosion? Or coolant going bad?
> 
> 2) the blue feet or spacers are cracked due to pressure and maybe not giving good enough pressure anymore.
> 
> Or maybe this cooler is just too old. I'm not hearing any weird noises from the pump. There is a good bit of heat coming from the exhaust as well. Perhaps the cooler is fine but it's just not enough to cool this particular CPU?


are you OC'd?


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ANTEC CS155*
> 
> are you OC'd?


I said 4.5GHz so of course I'm overclocked. But that's a mild overclock for Devil's Canyon.


----------



## M3TAl

What are the temps at stock?


----------



## Anusha

Stock is still overclocked really with this board. When I set everything to auto in UEFI with my Maximus VI Hero motherboard, the CPU runs at 4.4GHz @1.215V-ish.

At these settings, *1 round of x264 benchmark* (like I said, it is not Prime 95 or anything crazy) gives max temps of 79-79-74-79C. Ambient of about 26C.

I'm using different fans to the stock fan though. They create static pressure than the stock fan but I'm running *two fans* - Scythe Kama Flow 2 1400RPM - to compensate for it. Also, the fans are set for intake cool air from outside. The case I'm using is the Raven RV03 and the radiator is mounted on the front drive bays as recommended in the case's manual.


----------



## M3TAl

Need other people here with Ivy/Haswell (yes the TIM under the lid is improved for DC) to comment if those temps are normal, I wouldn't really know.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Need other people here with Ivy/Haswell (yes the TIM under the lid is improved for DC) to comment if those temps are normal, I wouldn't really know.


it seems that at low clocks/voltages, the temp delta is pronounced, but with increasing clocks/voltages, they kind of get very close.


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> it seems that at low clocks/voltages, the temp delta is pronounced, but with increasing clocks/voltages, they kind of get very close.


the prime95 temps seem ok to me. The 90 degrees seems a bit high though. Try putting on the stock cooler and test the CPU on the same settings. The results can easily show you if the Kuhler is operating properly. Sometimes the pump might die on you and it will sound like its operating properly. I've just recently had that with mine.


----------



## M3TAl

If the pump is dead the system would probably be overheating within ~30 seconds. If the temps are higher than normal my bet is on poor pressure/contact or bad TIM application.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *DjBodya*
> 
> the prime95 temps seem ok to me. The 90 degrees seems a bit high though. Try putting on the stock cooler and test the CPU on the same settings. The results can easily show you if the Kuhler is operating properly. Sometimes the pump might die on you and it will sound like its operating properly. I've just recently had that with mine.


I meant to say that I was not using prime95. I was using x264 stress test, which generates vastly less heat. i cannot run simply run Prime 95/Linpack.

You cannot run the stock cooler with Devil's Canyon. It's almost impossible.

I'm certain the pump is working. I get the RPM reading and I actually get hot exhaust out of the radiator. Just that, it might not be hot enough. It's warm. It is also possible that the fans I'm using are not strong enough for the job. But it is a thin radiator, and two 1400RPM fans should be able to do the job of the stock fan, right?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If the pump is dead the system would probably be overheating within ~30 seconds. If the temps are higher than normal my bet is on poor pressure/contact or bad TIM application.


I applied TIM few times. I didn't see any difference in temps.


----------



## M3TAl

Two 1400 RPM fans should be enough to get same or little better performance as stock single fan. My only guess is poor contact/pressure. Didn't you say one of the clips was broken? Can you take a picture of it?

Normally Antec would just send you new mounting hardware but considering you're in Japan... not sure how that would work.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Two 1400 RPM fans should be enough to get same or little better performance as stock single fan. My only guess is poor contact/pressure. Didn't you say one of the clips was broken? Can you take a picture of it?
> 
> Normally Antec would just send you new mounting hardware but considering you're in Japan... not sure how that would work.


Yes, the blue mounting stands or whatever you call them, got cracked the very first time. They are terribly made. I've never managed to break a cooler before.









I'll post a photo later. Cannot open up the case right now. I'll reseat it as well. The paste I'm using is MX-4.

Antec won't send me anything. Warranty is expired anyways. It's standard 1yr right? I've had this cooler for more than 3yrs.


----------



## M3TAl

The warranty is 3 years. They might still send new mounting hardware, you never know.


----------



## ANTEC CS155

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> Yes, the blue mounting stands or whatever you call them, got cracked the very first time. They are terribly made. I've never managed to break a cooler before.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'll post a photo later. Cannot open up the case right now. I'll reseat it as well. The paste I'm using is MX-4.
> 
> Antec won't send me anything. Warranty is expired anyways. It's standard 1yr right? I've had this cooler for more than 3yrs.


Mounting hardware for the pump unit? Just remember, we can send you the parts but just to let you know, the parts will be coming from California and we ship parts via USPS and it might take 2-3 weeks for delivery


----------



## DjBodya

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> If the pump is dead the system would probably be overheating within ~30 seconds. If the temps are higher than normal my bet is on poor pressure/contact or bad TIM application.


Mine was working too, but the temps skyrocketed anyways and then it turned out the pump went bad but was still operational.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

To me that cooler sounds gone.
Should perform better, especially if you have two push/pull fans.


----------



## Anusha

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> To me that cooler sounds gone.
> Should perform better, especially if you have two push/pull fans.


Thanks for confirming. I've already bought a new "air" cooler for the rig anyways.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Anusha*
> 
> Thanks for confirming. I've already bought a new "air" cooler for the rig anyways.


No worries


----------



## 8bitG33k

On permanent leave now I see TD









I am doing a fresh Windows install in the next couple days.Does it matter at which point you install the Antec monitoring thingy? I vaguely remember that when I first installed the 920, it said something about installing the software first, then the Kuhler.

Was it just the monitoring software I need or was there a driver as well?


----------



## M3TAl

I put my 920 on a different computer a week or two ago. Never installed the software.


----------



## Skrillion

What screws should I use if I don't want to use the default thumbscrews?

I just got a 620 that i'm slipping into my tiny Silverstone RVZ01 with a Maximus VI impact, and I need to zip tie the tubes down to the pump like in this image http://www.overclock.net/g/i/1897334/a/1129962/silverstone-raven-rvz01-ml07-owners-club/

The thumbscrews really get in the way of achieving this, and I need those tubes down to help keep them from kinking in my low profile build.
Thanks!


----------



## M3TAl

I'm not sure using a typical screw from the hardware store is a good idea. Wouldn't a regular screw allow you to easily over tighten? You would be better off with the old mounting hardware, the green and blue clips with more normal sized screws.


----------



## fattmann

Long time lurker here with a Kuhler mod question.

I've been running the 620 for about 2yrs now on my 3930k. Temps have been acceptable (30*C idle, 50*C full tilt), but have decided to expand to a full loop with reservoir. My plan is to use an XSPC bay res/pump combo (X20 750), two 120mm rads, and the Kuhler pump/block. Essentially I nibbed the hoses off and plan to add a second rad and the res with longer tubing. I was surprised to see how much crud and particulates came out of the 620 when I dismantled it.

This is my question: can I run the Kuhler block with no power to the pump, and just let the XSPC pump do all the heavy lifting? The XSPC unit pumps quite a bit more water than the Kuhler, and was afraid of a flow bottle neck or overpowering the Kuhler pump and leading to failure. I hooked the Kuhler block/pump up to a hose in the bath tub and seemed to flow extremely well without any power, just passive from the tap.

Was looking to get some input on this. I'm currently waiting for some fittings to come in the mail, so I'm trying to do as much research as possible before final assembly. I plan on routing for power to the Kuhler pump just incase. I know I don't need both in terms of getting enough flow rate- the XSPC pump is more than capable by itself. Just wasn't sure the best way to handle the Kuhler block.

And yes, I should get a proper waterblock, that'll be down the line. I'm going to use what I currently have and upgrade in stages. All around I've been very happy with my 620, but on to bigger and better things!


----------



## M3TAl

There shouldn't be any problem running the X2O 750 with the Kuhler pump turned off. However if you had the Kuhler pump on and the overall flow of the loop greatly exceeds the max of the Kuhler's pump it would probably cause a failure.


----------



## fattmann

That is something that I was going to visually inspect, I can't find any actual flow rate numbers for the Kuhler pump, so wasn't sure what kind of CFMs it was putting out, seems like very little... I had to RMA my PSU so I can't hook it up and test it out till I get that back. I was going to hook them up in a test loop and observe the flows between the pumps. I know the XSPC one pushes a lot, but not sure How much more.

Thank you for the prompt reply!


----------



## softeye

hey Guys,
Im trying to move my 920 to 775. however, i don't have LGA 775 brackets.
anyone knows where can i buy it?

i tried antec support, but they dont have that in stock and not gonna have it soon, i continue my search on amazon/ebay/craigslist.... with no luck.

any pointers?

cheers


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *softeye*
> 
> hey Guys,
> Im trying to move my 920 to 775. however, i don't have LGA 775 brackets.
> anyone knows where can i buy it?
> 
> i tried antec support, but they dont have that in stock and not gonna have it soon, i continue my search on amazon/ebay/craigslist.... with no luck.
> 
> any pointers?
> 
> cheers


If i'm not wrong, there are many (many) other cooler companies (like corsair) what use same mounting systemn than these cuhler's

H50/h70's bracket kit from corsair
http://www.corsair.com/en/cwch50-brktkit

not sure is there anyone who sell those anymore...


----------



## f0rteOC

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *softeye*
> 
> hey Guys,
> Im trying to move my 920 to 775. however, i don't have LGA 775 brackets.
> anyone knows where can i buy it?
> 
> i tried antec support, but they dont have that in stock and not gonna have it soon, i continue my search on amazon/ebay/craigslist.... with no luck.
> 
> any pointers?
> 
> cheers


The 920 is a standard Asetek design, so a bracket from most other Asetek coolers would work.


----------



## softeye

Sweet, i didnt know i can use corsair bracket.
thx a lot guys, that will broad my chances to find one.

cheers


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> On permanent leave now I see TD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am doing a fresh Windows install in the next couple days.Does it matter at which point you install the Antec monitoring thingy? I vaguely remember that when I first installed the 920, it said something about installing the software first, then the Kuhler.
> 
> Was it just the monitoring software I need or was there a driver as well?


on my own accord - problem?


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> On permanent leave now I see TD
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am doing a fresh Windows install in the next couple days.Does it matter at which point you install the Antec monitoring thingy? I vaguely remember that when I first installed the 920, it said something about installing the software first, then the Kuhler.
> 
> Was it just the monitoring software I need or was there a driver as well?


Don't really need the software unless you plan on controlling the fans through the pump. If you connect the fans to the mobo, the point is moot. You'll just see in your Device List an unknown device called 620C I am pretty sure its called. That's the Kuhler 920.

EDIT: Drivers are included in the Monitoring Tool software install.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> on my own accord - problem?


Oh, not all. I was just commenting on the status








Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Don't really need the software unless you plan on controlling the fans through the pump. If you connect the fans to the mobo, the point is moot. You'll just see in your Device List an unknown device called 620C I am pretty sure its called. That's the Kuhler 920.


Yeah I ended up installing it anyway even though the fans are mobo controlled. Just so I can see the pump is working and the water temperature.


----------



## M3TAl

Speaking of water temp, my custom loop hangs around 28C water with a ~26-26.5C ambient and fans ~750 RPM







. Still rockin the 920 on a backup system with a x4 955.


----------



## spdaimon

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *softeye*
> 
> Sweet, i didnt know i can use corsair bracket.
> thx a lot guys, that will broad my chances to find one.
> 
> cheers


Did you find one? I had mentioned it on here and the Antec rep sent me a bracket. I had also put in a ticket with Antec tech support. They sent me a bracket too it seems. I used the bracket from my H80 on it before I even asked, recognizing that the parts all looked the same. So I for now I have two extra brackets, though I definitely plan to keep the one. You can have the other if you like. Just PM me your address if you are interested.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Did you find one? I had mentioned it on here and the Antec rep sent me a bracket. I had also put in a ticket with Antec tech support. They sent me a bracket too it seems. I used the bracket from my H80 on it before I even asked, recognizing that the parts all looked the same. So I for now I have two extra brackets, though I definitely plan to keep the one. You can have the other if you like. Just PM me your address if you are interested.


if you have 2 of those h80 (?) bracket's, then he wont need those, becose h80 block/bracket's are different than kuhler


----------



## spdaimon

That's a H80i. I have a H80 that I bought like 3 years ago. I was talking about the brackets Antec sent me, though.

EDIT: I was trying to find a pic of it for you, and came across the same pic on Amazon as you did. I got my first AIO about 4 years ago with the H50. Think that was Corsairs first model. Then they came out with the H80 - thicker rad, two fans than the H50. I wanted the H80 so I modded the H50 as a push-pull. Later bought the H80 for a secondary rig. Then it was the H60 I think that replaced the H50 and so on. Anyhoo... Corsair/Asetek must have redesigned the H80 somewhere along the line. I definitely have the H80 and the pump isn't square.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> That's a H80i. I have a H80 that I bought like 3 years ago. I was talking about the brackets Antec sent me, though.
> 
> EDIT: I was trying to find a pic of it for you, and came across the same pic on Amazon as you did. I got my first AIO about 4 years ago with the H50. Think that was Corsairs first model. Then they came out with the H80 - thicker rad, two fans than the H50. I wanted the H80 so I modded the H50 as a push-pull. Later bought the H80 for a secondary rig. Then it was the H60 I think that replaced the H50 and so on. Anyhoo... Corsair/Asetek must have redesigned the H80 somewhere along the line. I definitely have the H80 and the pump isn't square.


No, that is h80
H80i is different looking, and i know becose i own h80i myself (and cuhler 620x2)
H80i is looking like that one

And then this is H80

(corsair link to h80 support page http://www.corsair.com/en-us/hydro-series-h80-high-performance-liquid-cpu-cooler )

Then there are H55


H60


H70

(Maby you have H70? )


----------



## spdaimon

Well.. [email protected] maybe it's the H70 then. I'm getting old, and I think I threw away the box long ago, but that's what it looks like.

Oh yeah..found the invoice for it. Bought 03/18/2011 from TD. H70. I thought for sure I had H80. Sorry for the confusion.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Well.. [email protected] maybe it's the H70 then. I'm getting old, and I think I threw away the box long ago, but that's what it looks like.
> 
> Oh yeah..found the invoice for it. Bought 03/18/2011 from TD. H70. I thought for sure I had H80. Sorry for the confusion.


Haha, no problem buddy, sometime's it happens to everyone


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> Well.. [email protected] maybe it's the H70 then. I'm getting old, and I think I threw away the box long ago, but that's what it looks like.
> 
> Oh yeah..found the invoice for it. Bought 03/18/2011 from TD. H70. I thought for sure I had H80. Sorry for the confusion.


"from TD"?
Me? huh?


----------



## spdaimon

No, not you. LoL. Tiger Direct.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> "from TD"?
> Me? huh?


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> No, not you. LoL. Tiger Direct.
























Made me smile....hehehehe (sorry, easily amused....







)


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *spdaimon*
> 
> No, not you. LoL. Tiger Direct.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Made me smile....hehehehe (sorry, easily amused....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> )


heheh me me laugh too dude


----------



## Anivex

Figured this might be a nice spot to find a quick solution. I've had my 620 for about a year, and It has worked great until recently. During high demand gaming my cpu has overheated a couple times lately, where it wouldn't come close to it before. When this happens, I can touch my radiator and it is incredibly hot, even the hoses are hot. The fan attached to it seems to be working fine, just blowing out hot air. I don't have my cpu(amd phenom2x6 be) overclocked or anything. Cant seem to figure this out cleaned the radiator and such just in case. I feel like it's having an effect on the rest of my system, as now my gpu seems to be suddenly overheating where it wouldn't get above 75c before. It is a gigabyte ati 6870, but i feel like that problem is for a different forum.

Any suggestions or help in general would be appreciated.


----------



## M3TAl

Has the ambient temperature of the room changed drastically? Is the water circulating properly inside the 620?


----------



## Anivex

I live in florida, so it's generally hot/humid everywhere, but it worked fine last summer, when it was basically the same situation. I felt the tubes, liquid seems to be pumping fine.

However the current situation is causing my room to become a hotbox yes...but still, 30c vs 100c is a big difference.


----------



## M3TAl

Something is wrong. Can you RMA it with Antec?


----------



## LocutusH

I have a 3 year old 620, working flawless since then in 24/7.

But just to be secure, its time to replace it. The question is, is a Corsair H75 compatible with the bracket of the 620? I dont want to remove the mainboard for this...
Or should i just buy another 620? (what does the new version v4 mean?)


----------



## davidh304

I had an Antec 620 that lasted for several years without any problem. I ended accidentally wripped the mounting (I messed it up and damaged it) and replaced it with a H100i.

The Antec 620 is quiet as a mouse. The H100i would whine and continually wind up and down. I ended up buying another Antec 620 and it's worked flawlessly. I would say both coolers keep temps the same (all other parts were unchanged.)

10/10 product.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *LocutusH*
> 
> I have a 3 year old 620, working flawless since then in 24/7.
> 
> But just to be secure, its time to replace it. The question is, is a Corsair H75 compatible with the bracket of the 620? I dont want to remove the mainboard for this...
> Or should i just buy another 620? (what does the new version v4 mean?)


V4 has a few changes in the pump design - nothing major, but best to get the V4 than V1 if possible


----------



## cech12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> V4 has a few changes in the pump design - nothing major, but best to get the V4 than V1 if possible


do u know the V4's flow rate?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cech12*
> 
> do u know the V4's flow rate?


I think Antec's rep mentioned it ages ago - they've gone completely cold, not heard from them in ages.
I can't help in that respect mate


----------



## cech12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> V4 has a few changes in the pump design - nothing major, but best to get the V4 than V1 if possible


do u know the V4's flow rate?
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I think Antec's rep mentioned it ages ago - they've gone completely cold, not heard from them in ages.
> I can't help in that respect mate


Thanks for u reply,do u in case know if my antec 1250 with dual pump can handle gpu+cpu custome loop?i cant find anything about


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cech12*
> 
> do u know the V4's flow rate?
> Thanks for u reply,do u in case know if my antec 1250 with dual pump can handle gpu+cpu custome loop?i cant find anything about


yeah the 1250 should be able to handle that - I was going to do a custom loop myself, but decided against it in the end.


----------



## cech12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> yeah the 1250 should be able to handle that - I was going to do a custom loop myself, but decided against it in the end.


why did u desisted from doing it?
do u know if antec allow to custom their units without loosing the warranty?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *cech12*
> 
> why did u desisted from doing it?
> do u know if antec allow to custom their units without loosing the warranty?


I couldn't be asked to be honest that's why lol!
No idea - I presume it breaks warranty


----------



## cech12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> I couldn't be asked to be honest that's why lol!
> No idea - I presume it breaks warranty


i probably will have to rma due to some leak just wonder if it is worth to make a gpu+cpu loop but i cant find anything about i hope my h2o leak wont worse


----------



## Callumpy

Hello everyone, I was wondering if any of you guys know an alternative black plate that is suitable to use with the 620.

I am now on my second back plate from Antec and the nuts just destroy the plastic when I try to take the damn thing off, also achieving crappy idle stock temps of 45C because of not being able to screw it back in properly.

EDIT: Ive found a couple of places mentioning this Prolimatech LGA 1156 Megahalem Retention Mount Adapter Kit that apparently will fit the antec, but will also take a good 15 days to be delivered here. Is there anything else or do I just have to wait?

EDIT 2: Found it on Overclockers UK, hopefully will be here tomorrow.


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Callumpy*
> 
> Hello everyone, I was wondering if any of you guys know an alternative black plate that is suitable to use with the 620.
> 
> I am now on my second back plate from Antec and the nuts just destroy the plastic when I try to take the damn thing off, also achieving crappy idle stock temps of 45C because of not being able to screw it back in properly.
> 
> EDIT: Ive found a couple of places mentioning this Prolimatech LGA 1156 Megahalem Retention Mount Adapter Kit that apparently will fit the antec, but will also take a good 15 days to be delivered here. Is there anything else or do I just have to wait?
> 
> EDIT 2: Found it on Overclockers UK, hopefully will be here tomorrow.


Allmost every kit that is made for same looking bloks, are able to fit to 620 (asetek rebrands, like corsair H50, H70, cuhler 920, etc.)


----------



## Callumpy

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> Allmost every kit that is made for same looking bloks, are able to fit to 620 (asetek rebrands, like corsair H50, H70, cuhler 920, etc.)


Yep. The Prolimatech definitely fits too, came this morning and got it fitted on.

It fits on there perfect and it way better than them stupid plastic backs that antec package with the coolers, it doesn't make sense that they put them in there other than to save money.

Glad to get my temps back to normal, around 32C idle and 47-50C on load.


----------



## M3TAl

While plastic isn't exactly ideal, I've never had a problem with the 620 or 920 backplate. Yet.


----------



## richie_2010

hi everyone, i thought id pop in and let you all know about my new universal bracket for mounting an aio onto a gpu.
since this is the antec khuler owners thread im sure there is some members that may have this cooler on their gpus or are even considering doing this and so i wanted to share with you my V2 of the mod bracket





please check out my artisan store in my signature below for more information or if you have any questions, im always willing to help


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> hi everyone, i thought id pop in and let you all know about my new universal bracket for mounting an aio onto a gpu.
> since this is the antec khuler owners thread im sure there is some members that may have this cooler on their gpus or are even considering doing this and so i wanted to share with you my V2 of the mod bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please check out my artisan store in my signature below for more information or if you have any questions, im always willing to help


I will remember this one if i need something like this


----------



## richie_2010

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Gereti*
> 
> I will remember this one if i need something like this


thanks, any questions as i said send me a pm or post in my thread


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> hi everyone, i thought id pop in and let you all know about my new universal bracket for mounting an aio onto a gpu.
> since this is the antec khuler owners thread im sure there is some members that may have this cooler on their gpus or are even considering doing this and so i wanted to share with you my V2 of the mod bracket
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> please check out my artisan store in my signature below for more information or if you have any questions, im always willing to help


absolutely beautiful mate!
I might get 2 if I get 2x 620/650s for my SLI 680s


----------



## Danker16

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MataHFR*
> 
> I finish modding my 920 H2o


man I want to do this to my 620 and add a reservoir!!!


----------



## subzerolives

Hi there guys and gals ,i am new here and i have a question. i wish to place my 920 radiator on the back of of case to reduce in case temps.My case has holes for the tubes,i wish to remove the tubes from the pump ,push them through the holes and reconnect them.what are my risks here is there any danger to my system involved? is it even worht it placing the rad outside the case? what about liquid loss during this procedure?.

Thanks for the replies and greeting from Austria.

AMD Fx 8150 stable @ 4.5ghz permanent since 2 1/2 years.
GA-990FXA-UD7.

20130226_162350.jpg 768k .jpg file


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subzerolives*
> 
> Hi there guys and gals ,i am new here and i have a question. i wish to place my 920 radiator on the back of of case to reduce in case temps.My case has holes for the tubes,i wish to remove the tubes from the pump ,push them through the holes and reconnect them.what are my risks here is there any danger to my system involved? is it even worht it placing the rad outside the case? what about liquid loss during this procedure?.
> 
> Thanks for the replies and greeting from Austria.
> 
> AMD Fx 8150 stable @ 4.5ghz permanent since 2 1/2 years.
> GA-990FXA-UD7.
> 
> 20130226_162350.jpg 768k .jpg file


There are some tutorials for removing the tubes and add a reservoir. I think to refill the 920 you need a reservoir fix in the loop. Beside it's seems not very complicated but you may need a bit patient!?


----------



## subzerolives

how did you refill the tubes?


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *subzerolives*
> 
> how did you refill the tubes?


I was planning a custom loop soon.


----------



## cech12

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I was planning a custom loop soon.


keep it up im curious


----------



## skiline

i am having a problem with my 920 liquid temp shows me 74c 167F and the fans are at 1600 rpm at custom ( highest value in fan control ) or at 2400 rpm in silent mode

its really loud but the cpu temp is 25C and ambient temp is 22c its been 2 days now with this problem

yesterday I turned off the PSU in the morning and turn it on when i got back from work and was ok but the liquid temp went back up to 54C

anyone had this problem

i even turned the radiator the tubes are now down but nothing problem persist i installed chill control version 1.1 and 1.2 same thing

( overclocked at 4.5ghz for month with no problem )

please help thanks

EDIT:

i removed the cooler cleaned the copper plate and shaked the cooler a little and updated the bios without overclocking and nothing the fluid themp at 71c and fans at 1400rpm in custom mode ( silent mode they are at 2400rpm )

dont know what to do now


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *MataHFR*
> 
> I finish modding my 920 H2o


beautiful mate
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> i am having a problem with my 920 liquid temp shows me 74c 167F and the fans are at 1600 rpm at custom ( highest value in fan control ) or at 2400 rpm in silent mode
> 
> its really loud but the cpu temp is 25C and ambient temp is 22c its been 2 days now with this problem
> 
> yesterday I turned off the PSU in the morning and turn it on when i got back from work and was ok but the liquid temp went back up to 54C
> 
> anyone had this problem
> 
> i even turned the radiator the tubes are now down but nothing problem persist i installed chill control version 1.1 and 1.2 same thing
> 
> ( overclocked at 4.5ghz for month with no problem )
> 
> please help thanks
> 
> EDIT:
> 
> i removed the cooler cleaned the copper plate and shaked the cooler a little and updated the bios without overclocking and nothing the fluid themp at 71c and fans at 1400rpm in custom mode ( silent mode they are at 2400rpm )
> 
> dont know what to do now


are you sure that's the liquid temp and not the CPU temp?
Can you take pictures/screenshots?


----------



## skiline

here is a screen shot

liquid temp is lower but will increase after minutes of use when i started the pc it was normal 25c and after a minute 55c


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> here is a screen shot
> 
> liquid temp is lower but will increase after minutes of use when i started the pc it was normal 25c and after a minute 55c


cpu temps looks fine, but yeah that liquid temp is ridiculously high- are you sure you got the fans in the right way?
If not contact antec support to see if they can sort it out.


----------



## skiline

i ordered a corsair h60 for now

going to contact antec support

thanks im out of ideas what to do


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> i ordered a corsair h60 for now
> 
> going to contact antec support
> 
> thanks im out of ideas what to do


The cooler need to be very tight attach to the cpu. Maybe reseat it and put a bit of thermalpaste on the cpu?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Might be getting 2x 650s or 2x 620s in order to cool my GPUs...
Looking at using this mount:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1501480/gpu-cool-the-artisan-store-promo-inside

Just not sure where the rads would fit though :/

Any suggestions for my setup (intake is also on the side atm):


----------



## richie_2010

move the cpu cooler rad to the top
add the top cards rad to the rear and add the botom cards rad to the floor of the case

if you can move the hdd and ssd to behind the mb tray or into the 5.25 bays.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> move the cpu cooler rad to the top
> add the top cards rad to the rear and add the botom cards rad to the floor of the case
> 
> if you can move the hdd and ssd to behind the mb tray or into the 5.25 bays.


hmm - could also put the GPU rads both at the top -with the 920 (CPU) at the front..hmmm Lemme see - I'll open it today see what is possible


----------



## richie_2010

i dont think the bottom card would reach the top of the case


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> cpu temps looks fine, but yeah that liquid temp is ridiculously high- are you sure you got the fans in the right way?
> If not contact antec support to see if they can sort it out.


My only guess is the water sensor is broken/glitched. If the water was actually 55 C then the CPU would have to be 55C or higher. The CPU can't be lower than the water temp.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Might be getting 2x 650s or 2x 620s in order to cool my GPUs...
> Looking at using this mount:
> http://www.overclock.net/t/1501480/gpu-cool-the-artisan-store-promo-inside
> 
> Just not sure where the rads would fit though :/
> 
> Any suggestions for my setup (intake is also on the side atm):


Sorry for double post but I'm on my phone and at work...

Looks like you could fit a rad in the top and front. Maybe.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> i dont think the bottom card would reach the top of the case


Agreed, but the rear, might be able to!
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My only guess is the water sensor is broken/glitched. If the water was actually 55 C then the CPU would have to be 55C or higher. The CPU can't be lower than the water temp.


Yeah that's a very good guess! Could be right dude.
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sorry for double post but I'm on my phone and at work...
> 
> Looks like you could fit a rad in the top and front. Maybe.


might be able to put top gpu at the rear, and bottom one at the front.
Cpu moving to top. Should be interesting lol


----------



## skiline

hey thanks for the help

what can i do to lower the fans speed they have to be connected to the cooler fan connectors rght ?????


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> hey thanks for the help
> 
> what can i do to lower the fans speed they have to be connected to the cooler fan connectors rght ?????


yes.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *skiline*
> 
> hey thanks for the help
> 
> what can i do to lower the fans speed they have to be connected to the cooler fan connectors rght ?????


depends on the fans - if they're 3pin, then you're better off connecting to motherboard.
If they're 4 pin, then yes to the fan splitter/controller of the antec


----------



## drowhunter

Ok so i've had the antec kuhler 620 for about 3 years now and it has been great.

but i recently did a new build and upon turning it on i noticed that it seems annoying loud. Almost like a hard drive clicky noise

i ignored it for about a month but when my patience ran thin, i decided to open up and take a look

to my surprise i notice dry white gunk over some wires and sata cable underneath the radiator

when i looked at the board near the sata ports a saw more white greasy gunk all over the mobo

and underneath the sata ports you can tell that its liquid like.

So i looked underneath the radiator and noticed the white residue dried up along the side and i could see what appeared to be a blob of liquid about to drop. i touched the liquid and it feels like oil, not water

the mobo has been working fine nightly despite having this grease all over it, I can only assume that the grease is non-conductive or my board would surely be toast already, i took the mobo out and i dont think i can get the grease and white crap off so i may just leave it there since it doesnt seem to be affecting anything

here are some pictures..what do you guys think?


----------



## M3TAl

No idea what is going on there. The liquid in these kuhlers is some kind of glycol mixture. No idea what happens to said mixture after 3+ years and if it looks like that if it leaks.


----------



## drowhunter

im guessing glycol isn't conductive then?


----------



## M3TAl

Not sure. Maybe that gunk isn't even glycol. Who knows.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

That doesn't look good to me dude!
New cooler needed IMO


----------



## 66racer

Yeah I would replace it at this point to be safe.


----------



## drowhunter

ya i removed it and got a new cooler today ..i couldnt get all of the gunk off, but i don't think its conducting everything is working .

I guess antec thought ahead with their choice of fluids


----------



## spdaimon

heh..I was going to comment wither maybe it was mineral oil, although now I recall talking to the Antec rep here early in the year, and apparently I was not to first to suggest that. He also said that they had some problems with it because the pump would burn out. At least your news is bitter sweet...I'd hate to have it explode over an expensive video card.


----------



## maka12

hi
just bought a new motherboard asrock killer z97x and a i7 4970k cpu
i currently have a antec h20 920 i was wondering what the rough lifespan is on this cooler is, i have had it over 3 years (around 1500hrs run time) and was wondering if i should replace it, (it still works ok) now would be good time as i am swapping boards etc.
if i was replacing what do u guys recommend i was looking at the nzxt 41xt?
thanks


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maka12*
> 
> hi
> just bought a new motherboard asrock killer z97x and a i7 4970k cpu
> i currently have a antec h20 920 i was wondering what the rough lifespan is on this cooler is, i have had it over 3 years (around 1500hrs run time) and was wondering if i should replace it, (it still works ok) now would be good time as i am swapping boards etc.
> if i was replacing what do u guys recommend i was looking at the nzxt 41xt?
> thanks


You could always go with the newer series - the 1250 or 950....


----------



## maka12

i had a look at the 950 didnt like the look of it prefer the 920. not sure whether to risk the 920 for a few more years or go for the kraken 41


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *maka12*
> 
> i had a look at the 950 didnt like the look of it prefer the 920. not sure whether to risk the 920 for a few more years or go for the kraken 41


Or, I'm sure you could probably get your hands on a new 920....


----------



## Gereti

Found this from OCN








http://www.overclock.net/t/1520769/antec-antec-kuhler-620-20#post_23051187


----------



## Nokmond

Hi all, I'm going to replace the tubes on my 620 with some longer ones - what coolant do I need to refill the rad? Would engine coolant work?!


----------



## kennysgh05t

Hi Guys.

I Own a kuhler 620, Its been about 6 months now. I Run it with a push Pull Config, Using 2x Artic 120mm PWM PST Fans, My i7 3770 runs under load on 45 Degrees celsius

Here is a Pic of it Fitted.





Link to Fans I use
http://www.arctic.ac/worldwide_en/arctic-f12-pwm-pst.html


----------



## Totally Dubbed

In the last month I started hearing my 920 make a very low end rattle noise coming from the pump.
I decided to open my PC - clean it up and then re-fit the 920 - after shaking it quite a bit.

Noise went away


----------



## Nokmond

Just fitted my 620,happy so far, 4690k usually doesn't go above 60c.

Is it OK the plug the 620 pump into the Cpu fan header but plug the fan(s) into the system header to take advantage of PWM?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nokmond*
> 
> Just fitted my 620,happy so far, 4690k usually doesn't go above 60c.
> 
> Is it OK the plug the 620 pump into the Cpu fan header but plug the fan(s) into the system header to take advantage of PWM?


Nothing wrong with that as long as the pump is getting 12V at all times.


----------



## Nokmond

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Nothing wrong with that as long as the pump is getting 12V at all times.


The pump will get 12v from the Cpu_fan header won't it? Thanks mate


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Nokmond*
> 
> The pump will get 12v from the Cpu_fan header won't it? Thanks mate


Not if you have any type of voltage fan speed modulation on the CPU fan enabled. Make sure you disable anything relating to CPU fan in the bios.


----------



## Neet_za

so after having my 620 for about 3years just a month over, i decided to clean the heatsink. (internally)
I replaced the coolant, (ranging from pure anti-freeze to a mix to a pure distilled water) settling on a mix, the cooling is around 10c cooler but now I'm getting a rather bad rattle/grinding noise from the pump having run it out of the case for little while thinking it was just stuck air and shaking it quite a bit letting it run for a few hours with rad above the pump to let the bubbles rise up to the top of the rad, still rattling, its very audible, it was never audible before I did this clean

Now was there some kinda of lubricant in the coolant that helped the pump ? As the original coolant was a yellow not quite as thin as water (from what i saw and had a bad, very acidic odor)
what am i doing wrong here? The cooling ability is still great but that rattle is annoying as hell...( I don't have the original coolant anymore)


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za*
> 
> so after having my 620 for about 3years just a month over, i decided to clean the heatsink. (internally)
> I replaced the coolant, (ranging from pure anti-freeze to a mix to a pure distilled water) settling on a mix, the cooling is around 10c cooler but now I'm getting a rather bad rattle/grinding noise from the pump having run it out of the case for little while thinking it was just stuck air and shaking it quite a bit letting it run for a few hours with rad above the pump to let the bubbles rise up to the top of the rad, still rattling, its very audible, it was never audible before I did this clean
> 
> Now was there some kinda of lubricant in the coolant that helped the pump ? As the original coolant was a yellow not quite as thin as water (from what i saw and had a bad, very acidic odor)
> what am i doing wrong here? The cooling ability is still great but that rattle is annoying as hell...( I don't have the original coolant anymore)


update:
So I literally gave the thing a hiding a few minutes ago on the back the cpu block (none cold side) and its almost deaden the noise (from about 1m distance, inside case) to tolerable buzz not 100% but defiantly better.
I just changed the tone to a less annoying one they still have the same amplitude


----------



## Neet_za

And my pump just died.......great.
Burnt out chip, think someone posted it earlier in this the thread sigh with same problem...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za*
> 
> And my pump just died.......great.
> Burnt out chip, think someone posted it earlier in this the thread sigh with same problem...


contact antec. Yes someone did do a repair.


----------



## kennysgh05t

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za*
> 
> And my pump just died.......great.
> Burnt out chip, think someone posted it earlier in this the thread sigh with same problem...


Whats you cooler age?


----------



## Neet_za

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennysgh05t*
> 
> Whats you cooler age?


just over 3 years hey, like a month over
Edit;
I lie its over 4 years old ;< , i cant do math :|
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> contact antec. Yes someone did do a repair.


Emailed them few minutes ago, see what they say


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za*
> 
> just over 3 years hey, like a month over
> Edit;
> I lie its over 4 years old ;< , i cant do math :|
> 
> Emailed them few minutes ago, see what they say


Ok mate


----------



## Neet_za

So antec is not going help me at all, even for the pcb schematics so i can at least try and find out if i can get a replacement chip to solder onto the PCB

asked for it component listing/schematics and I quote "Even I do not have such Information."
so just outright not willing to help because its out of warranty
maybe I can ask asetek but chances are im going to get turned down there too...
sigh, live in such a throw community its sad and wasteful...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Neet_za*
> 
> So antec is not going help me at all, even for the pcb schematics so i can at least try and find out if i can get a replacement chip to solder onto the PCB
> 
> asked for it component listing/schematics and I quote "Even I do not have such Information."
> so just outright not willing to help because its out of warranty
> maybe I can ask asetek but chances are im going to get turned down there too...
> sigh, live in such a throw community its sad and wasteful...


Well...it is out of warranty, it would be just good will to try and replace it etc.

In all honesty, you would probably go to more trouble trying to fix it, rather than replace it all together.
Depends if you have time/want to have some fun trying to fix it vs if you just need the cooler to work.


----------



## expresso

my 920 pump died a little over a year - it was still working but not really cooling - i got it replaced under warranty - i am not using the new 950

seems good for now - i had a few times which it seemed to just slow down to almost stopping - and it picked back up again - strange - not sure if its the unit or my board ? which is also new from a RMA also -

honestly i am loosing faith in these units - too many issues with the pump etc, and i hate the mounting procedure - antec been very slow in doing my RMA which was an advanced RMA - took over two weeks with me calling ever other day - keep getting same answer but it was never shipped -

only good thing is that you do get to speak to someone very fast and they are nice on the phone etc, - i think when this one dies - hopefully not too soon - i am going to try another unit -


----------



## M3TAl

The 920 I bought used is still running fine in my backup PC. The 620 currently sits on a shelf. I even threw the whole 920 rad in a bucket of ice water when I was doing some high voltage benching.


----------



## nicksender

Hi,

I think I have an easy question for those with a 920.

Is there a way to have the Chill Control dashboard from popping up on my screen when the PC boots up? I have tried checking "start minimized" and unchecked "run on start up" and this has made no difference. I just want to eliminate it from popping up when on start up. I have no other issues with the cooler; just the annoying dashboard that i can't control.

I checked on the Antec website for information or maybe some new drivers but it looks like they don't support this model anymore.

This is on a Windows 7 PC.

Thanks!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksender*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I think I have an easy question for those with a 920.
> 
> Is there a way to have the Chill Control dashboard from popping up on my screen when the PC boots up? I have tried checking "start minimized" and unchecked "run on start up" and this has made no difference. I just want to eliminate it from popping up when on start up. I have no other issues with the cooler; just the annoying dashboard that i can't control.
> 
> I checked on the Antec website for information or maybe some new drivers but it looks like they don't support this model anymore.
> 
> This is on a Windows 7 PC.
> 
> Thanks!


Did you check if the install directory has the proper rights? Is the settings persistent during a reboot!?


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksender*
> 
> Hi,
> 
> I think I have an easy question for those with a 920.
> 
> Is there a way to have the Chill Control dashboard from popping up on my screen when the PC boots up? I have tried checking "start minimized" and unchecked "run on start up" and this has made no difference. I just want to eliminate it from popping up when on start up. I have no other issues with the cooler; just the annoying dashboard that i can't control.
> 
> I checked on the Antec website for information or maybe some new drivers but it looks like they don't support this model anymore.
> 
> This is on a Windows 7 PC.
> 
> Thanks!


what you did should work - double check - and if it still pops up - you can try to go to windows start up programs and stop it from starting up with windows - but then i think you would need to start it once your in windows - hope this helps


----------



## nicksender

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Did you check if the install directory has the proper rights? Is the settings persistent during a reboot!?


I'm not sure about proper rights? I installed everything as administrator if that's what your referring to.

The dashboard settings were always unchecked after a reboot not matter what I did before I restarted.

What I did just try is switching to F instead of C and again checked 'start minimized'. When I rebooted the dashboard started minimized which is what I wanted all along! I guess we'll see if something that simple worked after trying it 20 times previously.

Thanks!


----------



## nicksender

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *expresso*
> 
> what you did should work - double check - and if it still pops up - you can try to go to windows start up programs and stop it from starting up with windows - but then i think you would need to start it once your in windows - hope this helps


I thought that may have been my only choice; but I don't want to remember to turn it on every time.

I think I figured it out for now as posted above.

Thanks!


----------



## expresso

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *nicksender*
> 
> I thought that may have been my only choice; but I don't want to remember to turn it on every time.
> 
> I think I figured it out for now as posted above.
> 
> Thanks!


put a short cut on your desktop to remember - or try uninstalling it and starting over - see if that works for some reason


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Yeah as the others said really. It should work, with the options you selected


----------



## Alvin Porras

*MY ONE & ONLY ANTEC KHULER H20 920*


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvin Porras*
> 
> *MY ONE & ONLY ANTEC KHULER H20 920*


Super sexy bro
But why in pull or push only config?

Why not push pull - temps will be vastly improved!
I would lose the fan at the top left


----------



## Neet_za

so i just noticed after few years, that the cold plate isn't flat at all, its bowed quite badly, trying to sand it down but need higher grit paper i think was using 1000 and 1200 to shine it, but might need something rougher to flatten then clean it with 1200, the quality on these things are terrible asetek is kinda cheap and nasty

also decided to just get a external pump and build small res with large clear pvc pipe and get 220v pump, and mount externally, case has _pipe holes_ with grommets also replacing the tubing.
might do a small little build log thing.


----------



## Alvin Porras

More satisfied that I see the fin of the radiator, and there I discovered that stronger *CM Seidon V* vs. *Antec H2O 920*. I used the Antec within 3 months. The Seidon V thinner the radiator but cold, the *temperature in Antec 920 24-85 ° C & CM Seidon V 11-35 ° C.*


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Alvin Porras*
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> More satisfied that I see the fin of the radiator, and there I discovered that stronger *CM Seidon V* vs. *Antec H2O 920*. I used the Antec within 3 months. The Seidon V thinner the radiator but cold, the *temperature in Antec 920 24-85 ° C & CM Seidon V 11-35 ° C.*


With that drastic of a temperature difference, I'm leaning more towards either a bad mount, or a change in settings/circumstances between the two measurements.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> With that drastic of a temperature difference, I'm leaning more towards either a bad mount, or a change in settings/circumstances between the two measurements.


and the push pull config...


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> and the push pull config...


Sorry, but a 50 degree drop did not occur because another fan was added. It sounds more like one had a load on it (stress testing, work load, etc.), and one was idle (or low CPU load).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Sorry, but a 50 degree drop did not occur because another fan was added. It sounds more like one had a load on it (stress testing, work load, etc.), and one was idle (or low CPU load).


absolutely - but around 5-10c will come from a "pair of fans".
So the fact that push/pull wasn't used - also effects the temps.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> absolutely - but around 5-10c will come from a "pair of fans".
> So the fact that push/pull wasn't used - also effects the temps.


I can see 5-10 degrees, as that is pretty much the difference that I personally saw with both my Kuhler 620 and my H100i. But 50? There's no way, other than a complete difference in circumstances as I've mentioned.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I can see 5-10 degrees, as that is pretty much the difference that I personally saw with both my Kuhler 620 and my H100i. But 50? There's no way, other than a complete difference in circumstances as I've mentioned.


As I said - I know - just contributes towards it.
Say that and a combo of something else.


----------



## richie_2010

i have had a strange idea about modding a khuler 650 to a crosshair v vrm block.
i know the pump is attached to the rad which is tons easier so all i would need to do is cut the hose at the rad end being careful of the barbs and replace the tubing with replacements.

i have a few questions regarding this though
1: what tubing dimensions would fit on the barbs i have compression fittings with the vrm block but these are 10-13mm
2: would standard distilled water be ok to refill with
3: do you think its possible


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *richie_2010*
> 
> i have had a strange idea about modding a khuler 650 to a crosshair v vrm block.
> i know the pump is attached to the rad which is tons easier so all i would need to do is cut the hose at the rad end being careful of the barbs and replace the tubing with replacements.
> 
> i have a few questions regarding this though
> 1: what tubing dimensions would fit on the barbs i have compression fittings with the vrm block but these are 10-13mm
> 2: would standard distilled water be ok to refill with
> 3: do you think its possible


Sorry on my phone, on break.

I'm not sure of the 650 but 620 is 1/4", dont know in mm but it's small. I think 3/8" is 10mm, so smaler than that.

2. You will want a biocide and anti corrosive. To make things easy and I think you're in the UK just get Mayhems X1 or XT1. It comes with all the biocide and anti corrosive built in. Might want XT1 due to the aluminum rad(much stronger anti corrosive than X1).

3. Possible yes, advisable.. That's up to you


----------



## NFleck

Custom mounted 620 on my EVGA GTX 660 with no additional sinks on vrms or vram. Temps are 20C at idle and stay steady at ~35C on a simple occt gpu burn stress test. Trying Furmark now.




Thinking about getting the xspc starter kit for my cpu, and using my h100 on the gpu (about to upgrade to an r9 290/290x with a g10 and heatsinks).


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> Custom mounted 620 on my EVGA GTX 660 with no additional sinks on vrms or vram. Temps are 20C at idle and stay steady at ~35C on a simple occt gpu burn stress test. Trying Furmark now.
> Thinking about getting the xspc starter kit for my cpu, and using my h100 on the gpu (about to upgrade to an r9 290/290x with a g10 and heatsinks).


Nice bud - but give that thing a clean!


----------



## olemon

Hi,

Im having issues with the fan being veeeeery noicy. I tried to download software for Fan controll, but it wont work.

I think I might have plugged the fans USB-cable wrong in the motherboard maybe?
Is the USB cable suppoused to go in to the socket labeled "CPU FAN" on the MOBO?



EDIT:

I figured out that it might be a good idea to put the USB- fan control cable in a slot for USB. I did this and the fan immeadiately adjusted speed and it got to a pleasent volume. BUT. Still cant access my software for fancontroll. Get an error of drivers for USB not being able to install when starting windows. And when I go into manager on My Computer I see this:



Sry bad english, am norwegian nUb.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Usb goes into usb on your mobo, cpu fan goes into cpu header on mobo


----------



## Neet_za

rather put that in your usb header not 12v cpu fan header rofl,
wouldnt be surprised if that killed the PCB or started smoking xD

edit;
oh that pcb/controller is dead bro, I'd rather leave it unplugged or try rma it,
leaving it plugged in might damage your mb usb header/controller, or be fire hazard...because burning plastic and copper


----------



## Gereti

Gaming buddy need's cooler mount's for he's 920 for am3 socket, best place look?, cheap shippings to finland big +
scan.ko.uk would send and sell but mounts are 6£ and shipping 22£...


----------



## Gereti

Okay, was planning to sell second cuhler 620 and one radiator, so i builded finally second one for my itx pc i3 2100


----------



## X-PREDATOR

check my sig for aio gpu mods and pics of my units:thumb:


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> check my sig for aio gpu mods and pics of my units:thumb:


Nice one!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Oh..k..
Is that a good thing or did i do smthing wrong?


----------



## ricko99

So I've been thinking about tearing my whole 920 apart and use the pump for a custom loop. Correct me if I'm wrong, do I need to use 1/4 ID tubing to replace the original tubes? How about OD diameter? And is the pump powerful enough for 120mm and 240mm rads to cool both my cpu and gpu? Gonna use a tube reservoir


----------



## M3TAl

The ID is 1/4", OD only matters if using compression fittings. These pumps are very weak and you're talking about 2 rads and 2 blocks. That's a lot of restriction for one of these little pumps. My guess would be that it'll take forever to bleed the loop of air and your temps would improve 3C+ with more flow from a more powerful pump. The flow will be super low.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Your statement is true but also misleading..sorry..but theres aot of peeps who has modded their units with 240mm rads..2*120mm rads with great results..me included..
I took a 920 pump/block with two 120*40mm thick rads..did the gpu mod and the temps have spoken countless times as proof..i went from stock 60+ >h60 50's >920+2rads...highest temps so far 45-47 all maxed and oced at 1ghz from 870..

Yes bleeding is the biggest issue..but when using a res..kerping it higher up and actuly sitting there shake rattle roll the pump 360° and leaving it overnight gets 80-95% all bubbles out..most of them get stuck in the rads from my exp..
Just ask guys like appirition..me..cakewalk..mike..etc..many more..well gladly help you/guide you..
Andvyes pump.is weak..but not as weak as you think..it may be crappy plastic bits inside but smhow it works..
If you use two pumps inline itll do just fine..but id do it seperately-gpu & cpu apart..so theres no heat diff in the setup


----------



## ricko99

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The ID is 1/4", OD only matters if using compression fittings. These pumps are very weak and you're talking about 2 rads and 2 blocks. That's a lot of restriction for one of these little pumps. My guess would be that it'll take forever to bleed the loop of air and your temps would improve 3C+ with more flow from a more powerful pump. The flow will be super low.


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> Your statement is true but also misleading..sorry..but theres aot of peeps who has modded their units with 240mm rads..2*120mm rads with great results..me included..
> I took a 920 pump/block with two 120*40mm thick rads..did the gpu mod and the temps have spoken countless times as proof..i went from stock 60+ >h60 50's >920+2rads...highest temps so far 45-47 all maxed and oced at 1ghz from 870..
> 
> Yes bleeding is the biggest issue..but when using a res..kerping it higher up and actuly sitting there shake rattle roll the pump 360° and leaving it overnight gets 80-95% all bubbles out..most of them get stuck in the rads from my exp..
> Just ask guys like appirition..me..cakewalk..mike..etc..many more..well gladly help you/guide you..
> Andvyes pump.is weak..but not as weak as you think..it may be crappy plastic bits inside but smhow it works..
> If you use two pumps inline itll do just fine..but id do it seperately-gpu & cpu apart..so theres no heat diff in the setup


Noted. thanks a lot guys. Will think about modding this thing


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ricko99*
> 
> So I've been thinking about tearing my whole 920 apart and use the pump for a custom loop. Correct me if I'm wrong, do I need to use 1/4 ID tubing to replace the original tubes? How about OD diameter? And is the pump powerful enough for 120mm and 240mm rads to cool both my cpu and gpu? Gonna use a tube reservoir


I have modded my 920 (and h70) and think using a single pump for cpu, gpu and a 240mm with 120mm is TOO much for the pump. Like mentioned MAYBE 2 pumps inline would be ok but your temps wouldnt be super great since the flow rate I believe would be too low.

I have used my 920/h70 in a cpu with 180mm rad and it was ok, Think I also did a single pump through the 180mm and 120mm stock radiator in cpu only as well. I know I did 920 on my cpu, h70 on my gpu and 180mm with 120mm as well. All worked much better than air especially on the gpu but its really just a stepping stone into a custom loop.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I have modded my 920 (and h70) and think using a single pump for cpu, gpu and a 240mm with 120mm is TOO much for the pump. Like mentioned MAYBE 2 pumps inline would be ok but your temps wouldnt be super great since the flow rate I believe would be too low.
> 
> I have used my 920/h70 in a cpu with 180mm rad and it was ok, Think I also did a single pump through the 180mm and 120mm stock radiator in cpu only as well. I know I did 920 on my cpu, h70 on my gpu and 180mm with 120mm as well. All worked much better than air especially on the gpu but its really just a stepping stone into a custom loop.


I don't even want to think about bleeding the thing... Maybe it would take a day or two? Got to keep the loop as simple as possible and keep the flow up as said previously, very weak pumps.

But go for it if you want and have fun with it @ricko99, that's all that matters. Doesn't work? Not enough flow? Frankenstein it some more by adding a 2nd pump.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I don't even want to think about bleeding the thing... Maybe it would take a day or two? Got to keep the loop as simple as possible and keep the flow up as said previously, very weak pumps.
> 
> But go for it if you want and have fun with it @ricko99, that's all that matters. Doesn't work? Not enough flow? Frankenstein it some more by adding a 2nd pump.


A reservoir is a must and bleeding it outside of the pc helps getting it operational quickly. I agree though, they are weak but heck you wont know till you try it







Thats why I spent so much time experimenting with them.


----------



## kennysgh05t

Quick Question guys.

What Fans are you using on you coolers?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennysgh05t*
> 
> Quick Question guys.
> 
> What Fans are you using on you coolers?


2x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition


----------



## Gereti

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennysgh05t*
> 
> Quick Question guys.
> 
> What Fans are you using on you coolers?


On my itx pc cuhler 620: One 120mm noctua
Haven't saw higher than 60*C temps on it when fan run's 450rpm


----------



## M3TAl

Used to use Cougar Vortex. Was a definite improvement in sound and temps over stock.


----------



## kennysgh05t

I Wish I could get Notuca Fans here ;(

I'm Currently running push/pull with Arctic 120mm PWM fans..

Would you suggest I go to Corsair SP120 HP or QE. Or Cooler Master Silencio FP 120. Or any other fans??

Do you think I would see a Performance increase? my i7 3770 on idle is around 37c and 48-50c under load


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennysgh05t*
> 
> I Wish I could get Notuca Fans here ;(
> 
> I'm Currently running push/pull with Arctic 120mm PWM fans..
> 
> Would you suggest I go to Corsair SP120 HP or QE. Or Cooler Master Silencio FP 120. Or any other fans??
> 
> Do you think I would see a Performance increase? my i7 3770 on idle is around 37c and 48-50c under load


performance si the same - the output of the stock antecs is really good - however the corsairs (in my case) perform just as well but a MUCH MUCH more quiet.
HP is overkill - I would get the QE.


----------



## nukedathlonman

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *kennysgh05t*
> 
> I Wish I could get Notuca Fans here ;(


Noctua's fans are really nice, and verry quiet I'm happy with mine (all my fans except the PSU and video card are Noctua's)... But you know for the money they cost, I do have a hard time recommending them. My experiance with AC fans has always been pretty good.


----------



## kennysgh05t

I read up on the Noctua Fans.. and their Spec look really impressive!! Found 1 place in South Africa that sells them @ R349 a pop where Corsair QE is R150 and CM silencio are R129.

Conclusion I'm going to try out the CM Silencio fans.. on paper they out preform the Corsair QE by a hair with







and the seem SUPER quite!
Ill have to wait till the 27th for stock to arrive


----------



## Cheaptrick

Got an old Antec Kühler H2O 620 that I'm using again for my mini-ITX build. I've lost the box where I put the software disc containing the driver software for the hybrid cooler. Been looking & looking in the net (even at Antec website) without any luck. Anyone who can point me to the download link for the driver software?


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> Got an old Antec Kühler H2O 620 that I'm using again for my mini-ITX build. I've lost the box where I put the software disc containing the driver software for the hybrid cooler. Been looking & looking in the net (even at Antec website) without any luck. Anyone who can point me to the download link for the driver software?


On the site bro - direct download:
http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip


----------



## Cheaptrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> On the site bro - direct download:
> http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip


The ChillControll is only good for much newer Antec hybrids. The Kuhler 620 doesn't have USB connection. I'm wondering perhaps Antec doesn't want to use it's old driver software & instead wants users to use the motherboard fan controller.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Cheaptrick*
> 
> The ChillControll is only good for much newer Antec hybrids. The Kuhler 620 doesn't have USB connection. I'm wondering perhaps Antec doesn't one to use it's old driver software & instead wants users to use the motherboard fan controller.


hmm not sure bro - although I got that off the 620s product site


----------



## M3TAl

I don't remember ever having ChillControl installed for my 620...


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> I don't remember ever having ChillControl installed for my 620...


I don't think it was included at first - as it didn't need to be controlled - fans would operate via motherboard reported temps.


----------



## Cheaptrick

Must have confused the 620 with 920 which I also used before. Anyway, the 620 doesnt have a driver software I guess.


----------



## M3TAl

My 620 still sits around somewhere. It's useful for HWBOT with the odd open test bench. You can throw the rad in a bucket of ice water for some nice temps. It got my x4 955 to 4.944.71 GHz







.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

So what temps dd yo get with that experiment?


----------



## lokham

Hello. I need your help.

I have the khuler H2O 920 with a i7 4690k on a MSI Z97 ac power mainboard. Win 7 64b.

- installed the chillcontrol V1 and there is no cpu temp, only the liquid temp.

- installed the chilcontrol V1.2 and it says that there is a problem with the USB connection

I have checked everything, and read the topic, but I can't find a solution to have the cpu temp.

Thanks for your help


----------



## X-PREDATOR

uninstall all software from the unit.use something like revo uninstaller or iobit uninstaller..they are essentially tidentical..and can remove all leftover registry files etc after uninstall is complete just dont reboot inbetween the uninstalls...

then turn off pc..unplugg the usb header form the unit...boot up pc..reinstall the latest available software for the unit..shutdown..reconnect the usb connector for the ao unit..power up the pc again and see whats what,,,report back if it worked or not...

read this article

http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/332443-28-help-please-antec-software-error


----------



## lokham

I have done what you said.

- uninstall all Antec and asetek usb with REVO uninstaller

- shutdown and unplug usb from mainboard

- boot up (fans were at max)

- install antec CC 1.2 (latest one) (it asked me to install asetek usb driver, I clicked on OK trust it)

- shutdown and plug the usb

- boot up and launching chillcontrol =

_cannot connect to chillcontrol device, check usb connection on device..._

I'm sure that the USB is well pluged to my motherboard because I can't plug anywhere else and another way.

I also had a yellow exclamation mark on my device manager (I didn't have that before).I manually update the driver browinsg my entire hard drive and find the "USB root hub" and "ASMedia XHCI 1.0 controller" and now no yellow mark anymore but still the same result when launching Chillcontrol :-(


----------



## X-PREDATOR

ok ..which os are you on?
which usb hub are you using...? try changing your bios usb 2.0 to leagacy enabled ?auto..and usb3 also to auto/enabled..this is a conflict between the os and hardware..not the actual software of the device


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lokham*
> 
> I have done what you said.
> 
> - uninstall all Antec and asetek usb with REVO uninstaller
> 
> - shutdown and unplug usb from mainboard
> 
> - boot up (fans were at max)
> 
> - install antec CC 1.2 (latest one) (it asked me to install asetek usb driver, I clicked on OK trust it)
> 
> - shutdown and plug the usb
> 
> - boot up and launching chillcontrol =
> 
> _cannot connect to chillcontrol device, check usb connection on device..._
> 
> I'm sure that the USB is well pluged to my motherboard because I can't plug anywhere else and another way.
> 
> I also had a yellow exclamation mark on my device manager (I didn't have that before).I manually update the driver browinsg my entire hard drive and find the "USB root hub" and "ASMedia XHCI 1.0 controller" and now no yellow mark anymore but still the same result when launching Chillcontrol :-(


there used to be a known problem with the USB header - try different sockets and make sure your motherboard USB drivers are up to date - if that still doesn't work - contact Antec for an RMA.


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lokham*
> 
> I have done what you said.
> 
> - uninstall all Antec and asetek usb with REVO uninstaller
> 
> - shutdown and unplug usb from mainboard
> 
> - boot up (fans were at max)
> 
> - install antec CC 1.2 (latest one) (it asked me to install asetek usb driver, I clicked on OK trust it)
> 
> - shutdown and plug the usb
> 
> - boot up and launching chillcontrol =
> 
> _cannot connect to chillcontrol device, check usb connection on device..._
> 
> I'm sure that the USB is well pluged to my motherboard because I can't plug anywhere else and another way.
> 
> I also had a yellow exclamation mark on my device manager (I didn't have that before).I manually update the driver browinsg my entire hard drive and find the "USB root hub" and "ASMedia XHCI 1.0 controller" and now no yellow mark anymore but still the same result when launching Chillcontrol :-(


You can try process monitor. I will explain it with an example (copy&paste):
Quote:


> If the above does not help, please download the Process Monitor Tool to capture the activity of xxx.exe while it is being launched. Once you have downloaded it, launch the Process Monitor Tool first, and then click "Filter" from the menu bar. After that, click "Filter" again, and a new window will popup.
> 
> You will see a drop down list showing "Architecture". Change that to "Process Name". After that, in the textbox on the right, enter "xxx.exe", and press the "Add" button below, then press the "Ok" button. Once done, launch xxx.
> 
> After the error appears, click "Ok", and go back to the Process Monitor Tool. Click "File" from the menu bar, and then click "Save". After that, take note of where you are saving the file (LogFile.PML), and click the "Ok" button.
> 
> Once done, please upload LogFile.PML to XXX or any online file hosting service and then post the link back here again so that readers can have a look at the logs for further analysis,


I captured and filter it register activity and file activity. With my problem the ANTEC driver didn't found the register key:

Code:



Code:


HKLM\Software\Wow6432Node\Antec Inc.\ChillControl V\1.2.0.0

I captured another activity in:*C:\Users\XXX\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Program Files (x86)\Antec CC\*. This is where the file *settings.lclc* from the archive folder goes. The setting file is saved into *C:\Users\XXX\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Program Files (x86)\Antec CC\*
and not into *%ProgramFiles%*. The same file in *%ProgramFiles%* is not used or maybe used for another reason. BTW. But the ANTEC driver is loading very often, in fact 4-5x times in a second , the hidden file *CCIVSettings.ini*. Mabe an error?


----------



## lokham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> ok ..which os are you on?
> which usb hub are you using...? try changing your bios usb 2.0 to leagacy enabled ?auto..and usb3 also to auto/enabled..this is a conflict between the os and hardware..not the actual software of the device


I tried this, and same result.My O.S is win 7 64b.

I've installed the 1.00 version of chillcontrol, I can now set my fans with the liquid temp but not with the cpu temp (which is not showing up) :


Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> there used to be a known problem with the USB header - try different sockets and make sure your motherboard USB drivers are up to date - if that still doesn't work - contact Antec for an RMA.


I have tried diffrent sockets (actually 2) on my motherboard without any change. I think you 're right, the only solution is the RMA by Antec (but that mean buying another cpu cooler while in RMA)









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> You can try process monitor. I will explain it with an example (copy&paste):
> I captured and filter it register activity and file activity. With my problem the ANTEC driver didn't found the register key:
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> 
> Code:
> 
> 
> HKLM\Software\Wow6432Node\Antec Inc.\ChillControl V\1.2.0.0
> 
> I captured another activity in:*C:\Users\XXX\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Program Files (x86)\Antec CC\*. This is where the file *settings.lclc* from the archive folder goes. The setting file is saved into *C:\Users\XXX\AppData\Local\VirtualStore\Program Files (x86)\Antec CC\*
> and not into *%ProgramFiles%*. The same file in *%ProgramFiles%* is not used or maybe used for another reason. BTW. But the ANTEC driver is loading very often, in fact 4-5x times in a second , the hidden file *CCIVSettings.ini*. Mabe an error?


Here is the log file : http://www.filedropper.com/logfile

Lot's of error in it.

Thank all of you for your help, but I give up, I think That I'll set my fans speed using the liquid temp without controlling the CPU temp (or maybe by OCCT).


----------



## X-PREDATOR

use HWmonitor real temp core temp to see all our need temps and more...are you using a win8 theme changer? if you are send me a link if its ones that actualy works as i have tried dozens....
maybe try reinstalling your os without all the extra stuff? is cpu temp monitoring even on in your bios? try a hard bios reset and see whats what...if that doesnt kick the software in it nuts then rma for sure


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lokham*
> 
> I tried this, and same result.My O.S is win 7 64b.
> 
> I've installed the 1.00 version of chillcontrol, I can now set my fans with the liquid temp but not with the cpu temp (which is not showing up) :
> 
> 
> I have tried diffrent sockets (actually 2) on my motherboard without any change. I think you 're right, the only solution is the RMA by Antec (but that mean buying another cpu cooler while in RMA)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Here is the log file : http://www.filedropper.com/logfile
> 
> Lot's of error in it.
> 
> Thank all of you for your help, but I give up, I think That I'll set my fans speed using the liquid temp without controlling the CPU temp (or maybe by OCCT).


The screenshot of the Antec software is the new version! Are you sure you installed version 1.0? also the log file gives me an error "the log file isn't compatible with this version of pe". What is you version of process monitor. Mine is 2.96. Thanks.


----------



## lokham

false
Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> The screenshot of the Antec software is the new version! Are you sure you installed version 1.0? also the log file gives me an error "the log file isn't compatible with this version of pe". What is you version of process monitor. Mine is 2.96. Thanks.


I thought it was the v1.00 but now I doubt about it







It's the Chillcontrol VI exe file located in the ANTEC INC rep on my HD

When I install the latest version from Antec website, it's the chillcontrol V located in the ANTEC CC rep on my HD (and I can't launch it)

My version of process monitor is 3.11.

I changed my fans today for a pair of Silentwings. But they're stuck at 1500RPM, can't go slower. I understand now I can't have performant AND silent system cooler :-(


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *lokham*
> 
> false
> I thought it was the v1.00 but now I doubt about it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> It's the Chillcontrol VI exe file located in the ANTEC INC rep on my HD
> 
> When I install the latest version from Antec website, it's the chillcontrol V located in the ANTEC CC rep on my HD (and I can't launch it)
> 
> My version of process monitor is 3.11.
> 
> I changed my fans today for a pair of Silentwings. But they're stuck at 1500RPM, can't go slower. I understand now I can't have performant AND silent system cooler :-(


Let my clarify. You wrote its working with the liquid temps but not with the cpu temps. I don't have the new version v4 of the kuhler but it seems to me a feature and not a bug. You can not install Chillcontrol V (the old version) because you have the new kuhler V4!!! Can you please use the liquid temps and see if it works?


----------



## M3TAl

Could we ever control fans with CPU temp? Haven't used my 920 in a long time but wasn't it always liquid temp? Don't think mine is the newer v4.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Could we ever control fans with CPU temp? Haven't used my 920 in a long time but wasn't it always liquid temp? Don't think mine is the newer v4.


It's always been based on the liquid temp, to the best of my knowledge.


----------



## lokham

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> It's always been based on the liquid temp, to the best of my knowledge.


Ok, so, from the beginning I was trying to make something impossible because It's always been based on the liquid temp and not on the CPU temp. I wasted my time (and your time too I'm sorry for that). I don't understand why the latest version of chillcontrol on the Antec website is the chillcontrol V (V1.2) and my working version is the chillcontrol VI (V1.0) but it works so I thank you for all

In fact, my real problem is that I can't go under 1500 rpm with my new fans on the kuhler 920


----------



## M3TAl

Well chill conrol V means chill control 5, and VI means 6. So think of it like this, version 5.1.2 and 6.1.0


----------



## X-PREDATOR

are thse the gelid silentwins? 4pin or 3pin? the pwm function only works on 4pin fans and if you feeel like modifying the 3pin fans ( if possible ) then it might work..why not instead use a proper pwm fan hub to get full pwm cotrol of aal the fans for the system..ca you please give ful system specs again? make sure to run the pump power also direct from the psu,,,even if OEM saya otherwise,,,always run stright from the psu:thumb:

glad we all could help, thats whats OCN for,,everybodys here to have fun and help each other:thumb:


----------



## lokham

It's the Bequiet Silentwings 2. Some 3 pin fans.
I didn't know that 3pins fan can't be regulate on 4 pins motherboard.

For the moment, I use them on a 7v PWN so they are stuck at 1000RPM, a little loud at idle, but just OK (80°c) at full charge.

Not very satisfied with that but I had no choice


----------



## SynchronicBoost

In case anyone wants to give the new 950 model a shot, there's a sale for $33. I still like the original pump on chip design better myself.

http://www.frys.com/product/8358237?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchronicBoost*
> 
> In case anyone wants to give the new 950 model a shot, there's a sale for $33. I still like the original pump on chip design better myself.
> 
> http://www.frys.com/product/8358237?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG


Well, actually $58 with a $25 rebate.


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Well, actually $58 with a $25 rebate.


my screen says $58-$25 rebate = $33


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchronicBoost*
> 
> my screen says $58-$25 rebate = $33


Exactly what I said....I was just clarifying that there's a rebate involved to get to that pricing.


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Read it glass half empty, I'm a rebate hater too, promo codes only please


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *SynchronicBoost*
> 
> Read it glass half empty, I'm a rebate hater too, promo codes only please


Rebates just add a bunch of "unnecessary" steps into getting a discount. Plus, if you don't follow the directions _exactly_, then a lot of times, you won't get the rebate. I also prefer promo codes.


----------



## SynchronicBoost

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Rebates just add a bunch of "unnecessary" steps into getting a discount. Plus, if you don't follow the directions _exactly_, then a lot of times, you won't get the rebate. I also prefer promo codes.


They are also a scam by retailers to eliminate returns, they know you want to get that rebate processed asap, so once the UPC is off, no returns. And the MFG counts on the guys waiting to submit to make sure all is good, to miss the deadline. So either one are in collusion to try to skim money from customers.


----------



## Mnemo05

has anyone tried removing the screws beside the 90 fitting in the pump?

does removing it removes the fitting? or it just helps secure it?

thanks!


----------



## M3TAl

There are people who have completely taken these apart, they should be able to answer this for you.


----------



## Mnemo05

I was hoping I am able to remove the screws without causing the barb to pop out

I would like to rotate the angled barb in a way that the hose routes to each sides of the pump without being taller than the pump it self


----------



## X-PREDATOR

By removing those youll be removing the entire barb/fitting..please do this inside above a bucket or something to catch the liquid...plus for more safety..seal off the power leads with plastic baggi or something...ive modded a h70 & antec 920..abd studied the grrrr issue a bit myself also..
If youre gonna drain this..get a res..itll make life alot simpler...
Im using the 920 pump/block pushing the h70& 920's rads...been a year later..still no issues ...


----------



## M3TAl

He doesn't want to drain it, just re-arrange the fittings, which doesn't seem possible.


----------



## Mnemo05

^thank you both

Yes, I do not plan on draining the loop as M3TAI said.. I was merely hoping to rotate the barb far enough that the hoses will not be taller that the pump it self

I guess it is not possible with this AIO model, thanks alot for the info!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Looks like my 920 is packing in - got a dry-ish pump after running for near 3 years.
I'm going to have to either replace it or fill it up with some liquid again. Any tips







?

FYI: I had several BSODs - which I didn't know what was the cause - upon testing found my PC within 2mins of prime was hitting near 95c - so no surprise after a few hours of gaming it probably reaching TJ MAx and switching off.
Hope I haven't damaged the CPU


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Looks like my 920 is packing in - got a dry-ish pump after running for near 3 years.
> I'm going to have to either replace it or fill it up with some liquid again. Any tips
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ?
> 
> FYI: I had several BSODs - which I didn't know what was the cause - upon testing found my PC within 2mins of prime was hitting near 95c - so no surprise after a few hours of gaming it probably reaching TJ MAx and switching off.
> Hope I haven't damaged the CPU


Considering you are in the UK you should support your fellow brethren, AKA Mayhems. They make awesome stuff and are a homegrown company with a club right here on OCN.

You would probably want X-1 or XT-1 (Ethylene Glycol based). I believe XT-1 will last longer though don't quote me on that. You can ask about the working life of X1 and XT-1 in the club thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club

Might as well replace the tubing with something clear and add some colored coolant







. I'm running X-1 Blue in my custom loop at the moment, also used to run Pastel White.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Considering you are in the UK you should support your fellow brethren, AKA Mayhems. They make awesome stuff and are a homegrown company with a club right here on OCN.
> 
> You would probably want X-1 or XT-1 (Ethylene Glycol based). I believe XT-1 will last longer though don't quote me on that. You can ask about the working life of X1 and XT-1 in the club thread: http://www.overclock.net/t/1286896/mayhems-users-club
> 
> Might as well replace the tubing with something clear and add some colored coolant
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> . I'm running X-1 Blue in my custom loop at the moment, also used to run Pastel White.


Haha - well I could do, but coloured would be pointless for me, as I can't see the inside of my PC.
I'm just wondering if I need to or should just replace the whole thing


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Haha - well I could do, but coloured would be pointless for me, as I can't see the inside of my PC.
> I'm just wondering if I need to or should just replace the whole thing


Custom loop time?







Ya it's expensive but buy used where you can and boy is it fun building it. The parts (well the expensive ones like blocks, rads, fittings) can last many years.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Custom loop time?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ya it's expensive but buy used where you can and boy is it fun building it. The parts (well the expensive ones like blocks, rads, fittings) can last many years.


haha tempting, but haven't got the patience or time lol!
I ordered the Noctua D15 - meaning I will no longer be on the Antec 920!


----------



## blaze2210

Just found a new purpose for my old Kuhler 620: I did "The Mod" and mounted the Kuhler on my brother's GTX 660. The idle temps were pretty high, sitting at about 50*C idle (ambient temps aren't that great). After mounting the 620, temps are down to about 35*C idle, and about 50*C under load. Now, it's prime time for some overclocking!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Very nice!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Mnemo05*
> 
> ^thank you both
> 
> Yes, I do not plan on draining the loop as M3TAI said.. I was merely hoping to rotate the barb far enough that the hoses will not be taller that the pump it self
> 
> I guess it is not possible with this AIO model, thanks alot for the info!


if youre aiming at having straight barbs instead only way to achieve that is to ask asetek or cool IT directly...the new evga hybrid aio unit comes with the straight barbs from what I last saw...


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Just found a new purpose for my old Kuhler 620: I did "The Mod" and mounted the Kuhler on my brother's GTX 660. The idle temps were pretty high, sitting at about 50*C idle (ambient temps aren't that great). After mounting the 620, temps are down to about 35*C idle, and about 50*C under load. Now, it's prime time for some overclocking!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!


Try to make sure you have at least good airflow over the card, you can see where the thermal pads were to keep the power delivery cool. The memory coolers are less important but airflow helps with memory overclocks as well


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Try to make sure you have at least good airflow over the card, you can see where the thermal pads were to keep the power delivery cool. The memory coolers are less important but airflow helps with memory overclocks as well


Unfortunately, the thermal tape doesn't seem to want to adhere to the vast majority of the modules on the "front" of the card (the side with the 620 pump mounted on it) - only one of the heatsinks actually decided to stay on that side. There's apparently some tiny amount of residue, that the 91% Alcohol can't seem to remove, that is preventing proper adhesion.

I've been looking for ways to be able to attach the heatsinks. I don't have enough thermal tape left over (I bought the last bit that the local shop had), and I don't have the funds to get any thermal adhesive. So with that said, I've come across a couple of potential DIY solutions to use (not all at once obviously, but individual ideas):

- mixing a small amount of super glue with CLP (or some other TIM), then attaching the heatsink to modules (sounds plausible)
- using TIM for the centers of the modules, then applying a small amount of super glue to the corners of the modules to adhere the heatsink to the modules (seems like a bit of a pain)

Has anyone actually tried out either of these methods before? Keep in mind, if I had the funds for the proper materials, I would get them - this is about working with what I currently have. I'm open to other potential DIY solutions as well. If anyone's response is going to be "order [fill-in-the-blank thermal adhesive]", then I kindly ask those people to refrain from responding.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> Unfortunately, the thermal tape doesn't seem to want to adhere to the vast majority of the modules on the "front" of the card (the side with the 620 pump mounted on it) - only one of the heatsinks actually decided to stay on that side. There's apparently some tiny amount of residue, that the 91% Alcohol can't seem to remove, that is preventing proper adhesion.
> 
> I've been looking for ways to be able to attach the heatsinks. I don't have enough thermal tape left over (I bought the last bit that the local shop had), and I don't have the funds to get any thermal adhesive. So with that said, I've come across a couple of potential DIY solutions to use (not all at once obviously, but individual ideas):
> 
> - mixing a small amount of super glue with CLP (or some other TIM), then attaching the heatsink to modules (sounds plausible)
> - using TIM for the centers of the modules, then applying a small amount of super glue to the corners of the modules to adhere the heatsink to the modules (seems like a bit of a pain)
> 
> Has anyone actually tried out either of these methods before? Keep in mind, if I had the funds for the proper materials, I would get them - this is about working with what I currently have. I'm open to other potential DIY solutions as well. If anyone's response is going to be "order [fill-in-the-blank thermal adhesive]", then I kindly ask those people to refrain from responding.


I wouldnt risk a DIY method on this one. The memory is not an issue. I would think as long as you dont overclock, the vrm will be ok but its a guess. There are low end motherboards that dont have heatsinks for the cpu power delivery. I would just make sure you have direct airflow over the card with a 120mm fan. That or just put the stock cooler on for now until you can buy copper heat sinks.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> I wouldnt risk a DIY method on this one. The memory is not an issue. I would think as long as you dont overclock, the vrm will be ok but its a guess. There are low end motherboards that dont have heatsinks for the cpu power delivery. I would just make sure you have direct airflow over the card with a 120mm fan. That or just put the stock cooler on for now until you can buy copper heat sinks.


I wasn't referring to the memory modules, those are just one type of module that I'm going to put heatsinks on. So like I said, they're *all* having an issue with getting the heatsink to stick. I'm not looking for a "just wait and buy the proper part" response (which the presence of such a response indicates that you didn't actually read my post), as I have already stated that I do not have the funds to do so.

Please don't respond with anything like "just buy the proper _____". I'm fully aware of the existence of thermal adhesives that are specifically meant for this type of situation. This particular situation is specifically about using what I currently have to get the job done. Do you have any suggestions that fit this criteria?


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> I wasn't referring to the memory modules, those are just one type of module that I'm going to put heatsinks on. So like I said, they're *all* having an issue with getting the heatsink to stick. I'm not looking for a "just wait and buy the proper part" response (which the presence of such a response indicates that you didn't actually read my post), as I have already stated that I do not have the funds to do so.
> 
> Please don't respond with anything like "just buy the proper _____". I'm fully aware of the existence of thermal adhesives that are specifically meant for this type of situation. This particular situation is specifically about using what I currently have to get the job done. Do you have any suggestions that fit this criteria?


Somethings are worth waiting for to be performed properly. Otherwise go ahead and experiment on your _brothers_ video card.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Somethings are worth waiting for to be performed properly. Otherwise go ahead and experiment on your _brothers_ video card.


He's down for DIY solutions, which is how we even got as far as replacing the stock cooler. I do appreciate the responses, but I was hoping that the very specific phrasing of my question would enable me to avoid the seemingly obligatory "buy the proper part" answer. It's pretty ironic, if you think about it: advising me to get the proper part for this, after I've just used zip ties to mount a CPU-intended cooler to a video card.









Do you happen to have any sort of information as to why this would not be a good idea? Does super glue have some sort of unwanted behavior when it's exposed to heat? I've seen plenty of posts where people have said the same/similar things as what you're saying now, but no one really gives any sort of grounds as to why it's not going to work or isn't a good idea. I've read a post which suggested that regular thermal compounds might break down in glues, which is why I was thinking CLP.


----------



## 66racer

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *blaze2210*
> 
> He's down for DIY solutions, which is how we even got as far as replacing the stock cooler. I do appreciate the responses, but I was hoping that the very specific phrasing of my question would enable me to avoid the seemingly obligatory "buy the proper part" answer. It's pretty ironic, if you think about it: advising me to get the proper part for this, after I've just used zip ties to mount a CPU-intended cooler to a video card.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Do you happen to have any sort of information as to why this would not be a good idea? Does super glue have some sort of unwanted behavior when it's exposed to heat? I've seen plenty of posts where people have said the same/similar things as what you're saying now, but no one really gives any sort of grounds as to why it's not going to work or isn't a good idea. I've read a post which suggested that regular thermal compounds might break down in glues, which is why I was thinking CLP.


Well the main fear fpr super glue is that if it does not work, what if it damages the components while removing it. The zip tie thing works in my head since it is a temporary solution that can be reversed, even if its used long term.

There is some interesting conversation about it here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?44209-super-glue-as-thermal-expoxy

I think if I were to use crazy glue, it would be to use AS LITTLE as possible to try to get more contact of the heatsink and module, so little that hopefully crazy glue is only in the small gaps where the surface is not perfectly smooth. Technically this is how we should apply thermal paste anyways, I think its why Cool labs thermal compounds work so well.

Another benefit to using a tiny amount is that hopefully if you need to remove them, it will allow for them to easily come off.

Good luck


----------



## flyer57

Hello everyone, kind of new here to overclock.net. Recently upgraded my CPU and motherboard. I reinstalled my Antec Kühler H2O 920 and after a few days I went to check to make sure it was still snug when one of the screws for the holddown ring moved when I checked to see if it was still snug. Now I remember when I installed that I thought the threaded parts were pretty beefy. And I didn't tighten it that much. Has anybody had any problems with thread stripping or something else causing you to not be able to tighten screws for the holddown ring. I'll have had the Antec Kühler H2O 920 for three years come September. I really like it and want to keep it if all possible. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well the main fear fpr super glue is that if it does not work, what if it damages the components while removing it. The zip tie thing works in my head since it is a temporary solution that can be reversed, even if its used long term.
> 
> There is some interesting conversation about it here:
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?44209-super-glue-as-thermal-expoxy
> 
> I think if I were to use crazy glue, it would be to use AS LITTLE as possible to try to get more contact of the heatsink and module, so little that hopefully crazy glue is only in the small gaps where the surface is not perfectly smooth. Technically this is how we should apply thermal paste anyways, I think its why Cool labs thermal compounds work so well.
> 
> Another benefit to using a tiny amount is that hopefully if you need to remove them, it will allow for them to easily come off.
> 
> Good luck


HELL NO TO GLUE2.0.... you guys are gonna be so sorry later on..super glue doesn't transfer heat..it grabs it and gets hot itself....just save up ..get copper sinks..and arctic thermal adhesive...if you want a ..perma solution

hey mod..whats up bro


----------



## X-PREDATOR

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *66racer*
> 
> Well the main fear fpr super glue is that if it does not work, what if it damages the components while removing it. The zip tie thing works in my head since it is a temporary solution that can be reversed, even if its used long term.
> 
> There is some interesting conversation about it here:
> http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?44209-super-glue-as-thermal-expoxy
> 
> I think if I were to use crazy glue, it would be to use AS LITTLE as possible to try to get more contact of the heatsink and module, so little that hopefully crazy glue is only in the small gaps where the surface is not perfectly smooth. Technically this is how we should apply thermal paste anyways, I think its why Cool labs thermal compounds work so well.
> 
> Another benefit to using a tiny amount is that hopefully if you need to remove them, it will allow for them to easily come off.
> 
> Good luck


HELL NO TO GLUE2.0.... you guys are gonna be so sorry later on..super glue doesn't transfer heat..it grabs it and gets hot itself....just save up ..get copper sinks..and arctic thermal adhesive...if you want a ..perma solution

hey mod..whats up bro


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> HELL NO TO GLUE2.0.... you guys are gonna be so sorry later on..super glue doesn't transfer heat..it grabs it and gets hot itself....just save up ..get copper sinks..and arctic thermal adhesive...if you want a ..perma solution
> 
> hey mod..whats up bro


Read the post before commenting, please.. That was a comment that you totally could have just kept to yourself. I specifically stated that I'm looking for a DIY method. If you don't happen to know one, that's ok. If you don't think they're a good idea, then please present some facts, not just personal opinion.

I already have copper heatsinks, which is what I'm currently brainstorming the DIY thermal adhesives for. If I had the money, I would have just bought thermal adhesive and called it a day and these posts never would have taken place.

Nevermind though. I'll get my help elsewhere. Thanks for the responses that were based on only reading a small portion of my post, and completely ignoring the rest.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

You know instead of bursting a bubble..stay calm..be polite..and stop..think..ive stripped a few of these aio coolers etc..plus done my fair share of experimenting..glue incl..
Just cause i sounded stupid..doesnt make me cupid you know..and fyi.i read all posts 5times before posting....

You daid you got thermal adhesive pads..ell then just stickm on the backside of the pcb were the ram is..maybe they wont fall off..

If you only came here to be rude..then maybe it is good that you say..ill get my info elsewere..

I see to many peeps abuse OCN and its vast knowledge from members to just feed their need and it never gets repaid..

The least you could do is show some respect..and be greatfull that atleast some are willing to help..


----------



## PropheticCreed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyer57*
> 
> Hello everyone, kind of new here to overclock.net. Recently upgraded my CPU and motherboard. I reinstalled my Antec Kühler H2O 920 and after a few days I went to check to make sure it was still snug when one of the screws for the holddown ring moved when I checked to see if it was still snug. Now I remember when I installed that I thought the threaded parts were pretty beefy. And I didn't tighten it that much. Has anybody had any problems with thread stripping or something else causing you to not be able to tighten screws for the holddown ring. I'll have had the Antec Kühler H2O 920 for three years come September. I really like it and want to keep it if all possible. So any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks ahead of time.


Hi Flyer,
I've had the same problem happen with my 920....twice. I was quite careful both times to not over-tighten the screws. I went through Antec support and they replaced the back plate. The second time they replaced the 920 back plate with the 950 back plate to address the issue. This was the response I received after I inquired as to the design of the bracket.

"Thank you for replying, there is a design flaw especially the back plastic plate that goes behind the motherboard. If you forcefully screw the thumbscrews that holds the metal plate, if you over tighten the screws, the backplate with the threaded inserts will either gets stripped from the plastic back plate. We've already addressed this issue to Asetek but still never haven't come out with the redesigned back plate."

So if you have your receipt I would contact their support team and see if they can replace your backplate with the 950 back plate.

Cheers


----------



## flyer57

Thank you for your reply PropheticCreed.
So what I ended up doing was taking the backing plate off and putting a really small amount of good superglue to hold the threaded inserts in place. On the backing plate of course. And it works like a champ.
But I ended up getting the H2O 950 for my new motherboard and CPU. Since I messed up the bios in my old GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard. Also purchased a new case. I then made my dad a computer with all my extras. Just needing to buy an inexpensive motherboard and some RAM. Installed my i7 3770K and used the old H2O 920 on it. Superglue worked fine. Now remember the superglue only holds the threaded inserts in place on the plastic backing plate. So well in fact that I used some of it on the backing plate of the H2O 950.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

You could also use a set of pliers, push the screw through and then tighten using a screwdriver - bit tricky, but can also solve the problem


----------



## PropheticCreed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *flyer57*
> 
> Thank you for your reply PropheticCreed.
> So what I ended up doing was taking the backing plate off and putting a really small amount of good superglue to hold the threaded inserts in place. On the backing plate of course. And it works like a champ.
> But I ended up getting the H2O 950 for my new motherboard and CPU. Since I messed up the bios in my old GA-Z77X-UD5H motherboard. Also purchased a new case. I then made my dad a computer with all my extras. Just needing to buy an inexpensive motherboard and some RAM. Installed my i7 3770K and used the old H2O 920 on it. Superglue worked fine. Now remember the superglue only holds the threaded inserts in place on the plastic backing plate. So well in fact that I used some of it on the backing plate of the H2O 950.


Good to know! I may have to try that next time I do maintenance.


----------



## X-PREDATOR

i know crosscutting in threads is frowned upon but i have to show you all this...its an aio unit turned into a pump/res combo
http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php/topic/2229-at-dooms-gate/


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *X-PREDATOR*
> 
> i know crosscutting in threads is frowned upon but i have to show you all this...its an aio unit turned into a pump/res combo
> http://themodzoo.com/forum/index.php/topic/2229-at-dooms-gate/


man that's crazy!


----------



## X-PREDATOR

yes but its insaely AWESOME...glad to see someone took the AIO mod to the next level...and surprisingly oits moving the liquid very good..i gues removing the cramped up cooling plate really does remove the restriction factor:thumb:


----------



## red-ray

I am trying to add Kühler H2O 920 reporting to my SIV (http://rh-software.com/) utility and need a H2O 920 so I get this to work. Does anyone know where I can get one from please? I am in the UK so a UK source would be ideal. I don't really need the whole cooler, just the control PCB that is in the pump assembly so if anyone has a 920 with say a failed pump I would like to acquire the PCB.
SIV 5.02 already reports later coolers that use the Asetek VI protocol, but the 920 uses the V protocol which is slightly different.
Thank you


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *red-ray*
> 
> I am trying to add Kühler H2O 920 reporting to my SIV (http://rh-software.com/) utility and need a H2O 920 so I get this to work. Does anyone know where I can get one from please? I am in the UK so a UK source would be ideal. I don't really need the whole cooler, just the control PCB that is in the pump assembly so if anyone has a 920 with say a failed pump I would like to acquire the PCB.
> SIV 5.02 already reports later coolers that use the Asetek VI protocol, but the 920 uses the V protocol which is slightly different.
> Thank you


PM the thread owner @Totally Dubbed. He's in the UK and might be able to help you.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Sorry can't help - I sent my 920 in, got a 950 replacement.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Sorry can't help - I sent my 920 in, got a 950 replacement.


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*


Yup! I'm more than happy to hand the club to someone else, and the 950 thread, as I won't be using liquid coolers in my system now.
After getting the Noctua D15, which performs better than the 920 and won't ever "run dry", I don't think I'll ever go liquid again.
Maybe WC at some point, but I don't see that in the foreseeable future - as it's just OTT and expensive for what I need to cool.


----------



## red-ray

Thank you guys, I will keep looking on eBay.
I suspect the latest SIV Beta will report the 950 though I have not tested it, is there is 950 thread, I can't see one.
It works on NZXT Kraken and Corsair H110iGTX/H100iGTX/H80iGT so may well just work, I may need to add another Hardware ID. What does device manager report for the 950 please? It's one of the Properties in the Details tab. It looks like USB\VID_xxxx&PID_xxxx&REV_xxxx and it's all the xxxx I would need to know. I suspect it may be USB\VID_2433&PID_B200&REV_0100.
AIDA64 and HWiNFO should also soon have Betas that report the 950.


----------



## nizmo2015

does anybody know were i can get the amd mounting part for the 920 kuhler the bits i am after is the thread bit that go on the back of the board in the bracket (uk)


----------



## X-PREDATOR

like this part?

i think i might be able to help you..ive got some old spares lyin somewhere:thumb:


----------



## nizmo2015

yep thats great the bits i am after are the thread bits that go in the back plate:thumb:


----------



## X-PREDATOR

just one little problem bro...HOW?
You can also doa dyi solution...same thread as those..
m3 etcccccc...get thin long enough bolts+ electrical washers/plastic...and use them with the front...

pm me details..ill check postal fees how much etc...


----------



## xKrNMBoYx

Removed my 620 from a 1055T build to change fans. During the process I heard water moving in the rad like it had lots of empty/air space. I guess it's gone a bit dry now. Put a spare H60 as a replacement and put the 620 in a dual core build.

When the H100i, H60, and Khuler 620 go really dry Ill try a ghetto loop.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Yup! I'm more than happy to hand the club to someone else, and the 950 thread, as I won't be using liquid coolers in my system now.
> After getting the Noctua D15, which performs better than the 920 and won't ever "run dry", I don't think I'll ever go liquid again.
> Maybe WC at some point, but I don't see that in the foreseeable future - as it's just OTT and expensive for what I need to cool.


Traitor!! Get out!!









I can't really say much, I swapped to an H100i, and my Kuhler 620 is now on my brother's GTX 660....


----------



## 8bitG33k

Is the 620/920 compatible with LGA1151?


----------



## M3TAl

No idea, sorry.


----------



## 8bitG33k

I just saw TD's comment up there about the AIO's "running dry". Is that a thing? My 920 is going on 2 or 3 years now. How do you test for that?


----------



## M3TAl

Any AIO or custom loop evaporates liquid over time. An AIO with this Norprene type tubing seems to evap slower than a typical custom loop in my experience. Yours likely has evaporated a bit but not enough to cause any problem.

When shaking my old 620 around there is quite a bit of sloshing coming from it which is caused by all the air in there. Or maybe lack of liquid is a better way to put it. My 620 has even run dry a few times because the air got trapped in the pump. This hasn't happened to the used 920 that is still running in a back up rig that a coworker is currently using.


----------



## Cheaptrick

Got a question re: the 620. I'm planning to change the radiator - what size of tubing & fittings do I get?


----------



## M3TAl

The inner diameter (ID) from my memory is 1/4". The OD just depends on what tubing you decide on. OD only matter for compression fittings as it is somewhat irrelevant for barbs.


----------



## Cheaptrick

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> The inner diameter (ID) from my memory is 1/4". The OD just depends on what tubing you decide on. OD only matter for compression fittings as it is somewhat irrelevant for barbs.


OK, thanks man.


----------



## Dynomutt

Can anybody sell me the AMD bracket and the plastic screw retainers for the 620?

I appear to have lost mine?

Thanks


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dynomutt*
> 
> Can anybody sell me the AMD bracket and the plastic screw retainers for the 620?
> 
> I appear to have lost mine?
> 
> Thanks


Usually if you contact an Antec rep here on the forum through private message or email Antec nicely they will ship you the pieces for free.They sent me some pieces for my used 920 for free. That's right, a used 920 with no warranty and they still sent me some mounting pieces.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Usually if you contact an Antec rep here on the forum through private message or email Antec nicely they will ship you the pieces for free.They sent me some pieces for my used 920 for free. That's right, a used 920 with no warranty and they still sent me some mounting pieces.


Same thing here, but for my 620.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Usually if you contact an Antec rep here on the forum through private message or email Antec nicely they will ship you the pieces for free.They sent me some pieces for my used 920 for free. That's right, a used 920 with no warranty and they still sent me some mounting pieces.


Yup, Antec Customer Service is excellent when it comes to supporting their products. Even second hand.


----------



## Dynomutt

Its OK now thanks for the reply's people, I found it, somehow ended up in with the washing. lol


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Dynomutt*
> 
> Its OK now thanks for the reply's people, I found it, somehow ended up in with the washing. lol










Few too many


----------



## TheCooler

Hello, I like to say hi i'm new to this group.
I have the Artic 620 and it used to cool a AMD Phenom 9950.
And this page opens my eyes, because I used the install methode without the ring.
And I had supper hard time to install it this way.
Because I bought me a 2e hand Phenom II 1090 I wanted to look how install the 620 on it. Just catch up.
One thing I must say I had so many problems installing the 620 on the 9950 cpu that improvised. I just the stockcooler backplate and the longer Intel screws and no lock ring. This was no problem after. Temps where great. Installing dho hard.
But now I like install the 620 on the 1090 cpu the good way, but now I have misplaced the AMD backplate.
I have mail/ticket Artic but did not get confirmation mail.
Any suggestions or helping hand? My poor old PC guts are lying all over in the living room.

(solved 27-3-2016)


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Usually if you contact an Antec rep here on the forum through private message or email Antec nicely they will ship you the pieces for free.They sent me some pieces for my used 920 for free. That's right, a used 920 with no warranty and they still sent me some mounting pieces.


They wanted me to pay more then $15!!!!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> They wanted me to pay more then $15!!!!


Sent me mounting hardware for free!!!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Sent me mounting hardware for free!!!


I also bought my Antec 920 used.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> I also bought my Antec 920 used.


Same here.


----------



## Recursion

Antec 920-XSPC20 Custom Water Cooler GPU Mod !!






With my current build I have an extra Coolermaster Seidon 120M in the loop extra for my cpu!!


----------



## Totally Dubbed

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Recursion*
> 
> Antec 920-XSPC20 Custom Water Cooler GPU Mod !!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> With my current build I have an extra Coolermaster Seidon 120M in the loop extra for my cpu!!


Nice!!!


----------



## Recursion

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Totally Dubbed*
> 
> Nice!!!


Thank you! Here is my build log:http://www.overclock.net/t/1595828/build-log-corsair-carbide-400r-water-cooled/0_70

BTW: The XSPC 20 can be undervolted. It runs at 12V!


----------



## Maximization

i have an extra x79 mobo laying around, where can you get a copy of the antec 920 drivers? i can't find disk??


----------



## Maximization

found rustic link...








http://www.antec.com/product.php?id=704370&pid=17&lan=us


----------



## red-ray

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Maximization*
> 
> i have an extra x79 mobo laying around, where can you get a copy of the antec 920 drivers? i can't find disk??


Is http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip what you need?


----------



## Maximization

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *red-ray*
> 
> Is http://www.antec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip what you need?


thanks..
reped yaaaaa


----------



## FEAR6655

Kühler H2O 620 after 5 years of service

So I just replaced my 620 of 5 years (4 on a Phenom II, 1 on a Core i7). Cooling performance wasn't great, and I think 5 years is about the time to retire (the tubes are extremely stiff, no doubt the seals are too).

Thought I'd take it apart since I'm not going to use it again. Might have found the reason for the poor performance.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FEAR6655*
> 
> Kühler H2O 620 after 5 years of service
> 
> So I just replaced my 620 of 5 years (4 on a Phenom II, 1 on a Core i7). Cooling performance wasn't great, and I think 5 years is about the time to retire (the tubes are extremely stiff, no doubt the seals are too).
> 
> Thought I'd take it apart since I'm not going to use it again. Might have found the reason for the poor performance.


Wonder what that is considering the tubing shouldn't have any plasticizer. Still running my 920 on a Phenom II X4 and my 620 is sitting around collecting dust.


----------



## FEAR6655

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Wonder what that is considering the tubing shouldn't have any plasticizer. Still running my 920 on a Phenom II X4 and my 620 is sitting around collecting dust.


It's crystalline, feels like raw sugar between the fingers. Presumably formed from the corrosion inhibitor and/or biocide.


----------



## M3TAl

Actually hooked up the old 620 to my Phenom II X4 rig and for some reason the fan (3-pin Swiiftech Helix) isn't working. I connected the pump direct to motherboard and the fan to the 3 pin male connector coming from the Kuhler.

Now it's been a long time since I've used this thing... am I just having a brain fart and only the supplied Antec fans works connected direct to the Kuhler?

Nevermind, turns out the fan was pushed up against the case grill so the fan couldn't spin. Added some rubber spacers, problem fixed


----------



## Emissary of Pain

Hey all

Quick question,

I have the H920 and I tried putting new fans on it as the oem fans died. I bought the new Coolermaster Master Fans and when I plug them into the header they power on for a split second and then stop spinning, the block LED does not come on and I get a CPU fan error

Does this mean that the block is dead or are the fans just not compatible ?

Regards


----------



## Phoenixlight

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *FEAR6655*
> 
> Kühler H2O 620 after 5 years of service
> 
> So I just replaced my 620 of 5 years (4 on a Phenom II, 1 on a Core i7). Cooling performance wasn't great, and I think 5 years is about the time to retire (the tubes are extremely stiff, no doubt the seals are too).
> 
> Thought I'd take it apart since I'm not going to use it again. Might have found the reason for the poor performance.


That's quite interesting, I've noticed my 620 doesn't seem to cool very well anymore, I dropped my overlock pretty much completely running at 4GHZ now and the temperatures hit around 72*C in GTA V. I was going to try re-applying some thermal paste though.


----------



## lordimac

Hello everyone,
well, after 5 Years my 620 died as well.

Cooling performance was OK until few days ago my CPU temp was around 95 degrees celsius. So I checked the Antec Kühler H2o 620 and recognized a few things.

First, my radiator seems to have an hairline crack. There war dry yellow whatever at it making it's way down to the mainboard. Luckily nothing bad happend, there was some yellow also at the housing of my PS2/USB. Maybe it's a hairline crack, maybe it's coming from this slightly damaged connector.

Second, I think because of this hairline crack the water evaporated and one day it didn't work anymore. No water flow or at least not enough.

Third, I took it apart and have seen the same thing as FEAR6655, but much more worse in my situation.

I will attach some images below.

Also tweeted Antec about this. No word so far from them.

They sell an maintenance free closed loop water cooler which seems to be aweful, at least the coolance which they use.













I cleaned up everything and now it runs on my desk as a test, to make sure everything is ok or not. Maybe I can use these parts in the future together with a reservoir.


----------



## nukedathlonman

Ouch man, that blow's. Mines now 4 years old, and seems to be doing fine: idle temps of around 24-25 degrees C, full throttle temps around 48 degrees C (I had done a lot of cooling optimizations on my old overclocked PC). But looking at how many failures are poping up, think it would it be advisable to replace mine as a preventive measure (or a full disassembly, de-gunk and refill)?


----------



## bmgjet

Maybe I should pull mine apart. 6 years old and not had any issues yet other then giving the radiator a clean out every few months.
Was just about to use it in another project to cool a high powered LED.

Decided to pull the plate off and have a look since I dont want to fry $160 LED chip.



Fluid was a little bit low. So topped back up until its just under level (needs to be a small air gap for expansion)
Current fluid in it was perfectly clear, added about 20ml of RO water.

Block looks very clean.


----------



## lordimac

@nukedathlonman It should be fine, mine was running 24/7 for nearly 5 years. But to prevent any problems my recommendation would be: Get a tank with 6mm fittings, 6mm inner diameter pipe. Clean everything and then you can still let it run for years until the pump dies.









@bmgjet Yes, but yours is modded. Mine was running with stock coolance.


----------



## bmgjet

For those of you with a old Antec AIO sitting around a CitiLED 058-1825 LED screws straight on.


----------



## granno21

Need some guidance. Just shipped my cooler from Europe to the US, took 5 months.

Now the pump is loud and the temps are going from 32 to shutoff (93) in about 2 minutes. I don't think it's the thermal paste as it's a slow heat buildup and the pump unit gets hot. The pump sounds like it's running as it's loud. Could it be that the coolant evaporated?

Is it easy to add more coolant?


----------



## bmgjet

Have you bleed the pump, (Have it as lowest point and power it on so air can leave it and travel into radiator)
There is ment to be a bit of air in it to account for the coolants expansion but to fill it is as easy as removing the copper base as you can see in my picture back a few posts.


----------



## granno21

didn't bleed the pump properly apparently. Tipped the whole computer on its side with the radiator straight up and let it run for a few minutes, and viola, it works!

Thanks!


----------



## john420

Hello i have a 620 and would like to mod it with some clear hoses.. i know its 1/4 but how many mm are the size of them?? 12/10mm 10/8mm or 8/6mm?? or bigger ?? someone must know so i dont have to cut open the thing to find out as im using it now

EDIT: Just ordered 8/6mm tubes.. then we will see i guess ...


----------



## lordimac

Inner Diameter is 6mm. Use a lighter to heat up the end of the hose before you install it, makes it easier. Outer Diameter doesn't matter, use 8 or 9 mm, depends on what you can get.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john420*
> 
> Hello i have a 620 and would like to mod it with some clear hoses.. i know its 1/4 but how many mm are the size of them?? 12/10mm 10/8mm or 8/6mm?? or bigger ?? someone must know so i dont have to cut open the thing to find out as im using it now
> 
> EDIT: Just ordered 8/6mm tubes.. then we will see i guess ...


The inner diameter would be 6mm for 1/4". The outer diameter is irrelevant unless using compression fittings.

Edit:Ahaha, ninja.


----------



## john420

Yea ok thanks that was what i thought.. That means i can add my old rad in to the mix from a Northq Siberian tiger and make something like this!







xD 

I really hope i will be able to make a fountain effect in the res :3 and make sure the pump stays fed with water as its below the pump..

i have a pretty good feeling i will have nice temps for my 4790k 4.7ghz 1.4v

Also the 120mm fan will be a kaze ultra 3000rpm


----------



## lordimac

Looking forward for your project! I was planning the same thing, running the old 620 Cooler/Pump Combo together with an Reservoir and GPU Cooler. But testing the 620 Pump outside wasn't good at all. The water flow was very low, nothing compared to my new EKWB pump. I'm unsure about your fountain effect, sorry.


----------



## john420

Yeah ok.. i guess we will see, defenitly posting a pic when its done







i still have the pump from the northq... would the loop benefit from having that in? 2pumps? maybe in between the two rads?


----------



## lordimac

Not sure about this, I think one pump will slow down the other pump.


----------



## john420

i dont think so.. if you think about it the radiators will add restriction between them.. i think it will work perfectly and increase flowrate and take some load of the main pump


----------



## lordimac

Maybe, I don't know, sorry.


----------



## john420

Like this?


----------



## hojnikb

Guys i still have Antec Cooler 620... I seem to have misplaced the 775 mounting thingys
http://cdn.freshdesk.com/data/helpdesk/attachments/production/1010431819/original/7752.JPG?1414691072 (blue ones, but originally they were green).

Where could i buy those ?


----------



## john420

Almost Done and working beautifully https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD0lyX73XuI&feature=youtu.be

Asus Z97-P
Core I7 4790K @ 4.70 Ghz
Asus GTX 780 DirectCU ll OC @ 1254mhz
Crucial Ballistix SP 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 @ 1866CL10
AIO Antec H620 Kuhler
Coolermaster 600 watt PSU
CM Devastator 2
Bitfenix Nova /Wndowed
Samsung 951 M.2 128GB PCIE SSD
320GB Samsung 2.5 HDD

Thanks for the answers!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john420*
> 
> Almost Done and working beautifully https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gD0lyX73XuI&feature=youtu.be
> 
> Asus Z97-P
> Core I7 4790K @ 4.70 Ghz
> Asus GTX 780 DirectCU ll OC @ 1254mhz
> Crucial Ballistix SP 16GB 4x4GB DDR3 @ 1866CL10
> AIO Antec H620 Kuhler
> Coolermaster 600 watt PSU
> CM Devastator 2
> Bitfenix Nova /Wndowed
> Samsung 951 M.2 128GB PCIE SSD
> 320GB Samsung 2.5 HDD
> 
> Thanks for the answers!


What's your voltage for 4.7? Run my 4790K at 4.7 too on custom water.


----------



## john420

1.410 Vcore in adaptive (1.464 when running prime95 blend as example) - 1.95 Vccin (Max readout in AIsuite is -+ 2.020

With x45 cache at 1.400 Adaptive

With all Digi+ VRM settings maxed

I know this is prob the max 24/7 safe settings to go with as long as you got your cooling in order









but i do







so why not?

Been stable so far in bf1 with no single crash with Cinebench being run in the back ground at different time intervals..

i dunno how to test this chip better as it passes 1 hour ixt test. And prime95 just massively overheats everything, so i useally give it 3-5 min in prime atleast to say OK for the next test... as the results over 5 min just seems to get insanely scrambled do to temps..

it really doesnt like to get around the 100c mark sometimes so its abit difficult to find the right spot as the chip run so goddamn hot.. and make sure that its capable to throttle itself down if the situation was to occur..

but there is no guarantee from me this will work on your system... i must admit this has been the most advanced diffucult chip to overclock in my whole life..

So advanced i miss the old C2Q 775 days to much!!!

And yea i know the volt is high but hey i didnt win the lottery
















EDIT: reached x45 cache @ 1.400v adaptive


----------



## M3TAl

Is your chip delidded? Mine would literally blow up in Prime95 with 1.41 vcore and it's on EK supremacy with 2x480mm rads. Run mine 4.7 1.2 vcore (hits probably 1.24 in prime95) and even at 1.2v it will go 90C+ in Prime95 blend. Those AVX2 instructions are insane. Gaming is more 50-60C and x264 encoding is mid 60's. Ambient is usually ~80F/26.66C.


----------



## john420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Is your chip delidded? Mine would literally blow up in Prime95 with 1.41 vcore and it's on EK supremacy with 2x480mm rads. Run mine 4.7 1.2 vcore (hits probably 1.24 in prime95) and even at 1.2v it will go 90C+ in Prime95 blend. Those AVX2 instructions are insane. Gaming is more 50-60C and x264 encoding is mid 60's. Ambient is usually ~80F/26.66C.


No its not dellidded.. and mine also easily reaches 95c after a 4 min run









also could be a mistake in your loop??

Especially if im getter better temps with my custom rigged loop?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *john420*
> 
> No its not dellidded.. and mine also easily reaches 95c after a 4 min run
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> also could be a mistake in your loop??
> 
> Especially if im getter better temps with my custom rigged loop?


My temps are within the normal range, P95 is just crazy with those avx instructions. Delid would be nice though. The chip is capable of 4.9-5 Ghz 24/7 (temps allowing).


----------



## john420

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> My temps are within the normal range, P95 is just crazy with those avx instructions. Delid would be nice though. The chip is capable of 4.9-5 Ghz 24/7 (temps allowing).


Im just worried i might chip something of the core as its sligtly off the center of the pcb...


----------



## darkshot

Hi I have a Antec 620 and I want to know whats is the max pump RPM?


----------



## ljavier

good day

my 3 year old 920 have been acting up i have changed the thermal paste, tried re orienting the rad and the cooler. my fx 6300 idles at 25-35c but can not pass prime 95 as it reaches max temps very quickly.


----------



## M3TAl

Took apart my Kuhler 920 because it started having issues with running dry and heat issues in general (been using it on backup rig). I also have so many extra water cooling parts I'm going to attempt making a custom loop out of it. Ditching the aluminum rad and just using it basically as a CPU block.

There was all kinds of nasty junk in there, no idea what it was.



Spoiler: Warning: Kuhler 920 Dismantled!


----------



## 8bitG33k

Good to see this thread is still alive after all these years. My 620 is on it's last leg, I can hear the water sloshing when I shake the rad. Getting a Corsair H80 v2 or a NZXT Kraken. I might diy something from the 620 parts.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> I might diy something from the 620 parts.


Go for it!!!

Question: is the inlet the one on the right side? Closest to the wires? I'll be using an OEM Jingway pump to fill and as the main pump but need to make sure the flow is setup correctly through the Kuhler.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Go for it!!!
> 
> Question: is the inlet the one on the right side? Closest to the wires? I'll be using an OEM Jingway pump to fill and as the main pump but need to make sure the flow is setup correctly through the Kuhler.


Hm... hard to tell from just looking at the picture, and I haven't opened mine up as it is still in use. Judging from the pic itself I'd wager you labeled them correctly but I'd check to see which way the fan/ pump blades are facing to be sure.

I can't really come up with a good use for mine as my 1070 has a badass cooler already and never gets above 69 no matter how much I OC it. I might just refill mine though and continue using it as a CPU cooler.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Hm... hard to tell from just looking at the picture, and I haven't opened mine up as it is still in use. Judging from the pic itself I'd wager you labeled them correctly but I'd check to see which way the fan/ pump blades are facing to be sure.
> 
> I can't really come up with a good use for mine as my 1070 has a badass cooler already and never gets above 69 no matter how much I OC it. I might just refill mine though and continue using it as a CPU cooler.


Just tested it in the sink, I was wrong. Left barb is the intake.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Just tested it in the sink, I was wrong. Left barb is the intake.


Ah, good to know and thanks for sharing!

What size tubing does the Antec use? I'm contemplating to replace the tubing with clear tubes.


----------



## reaver83

Good to see I'm not the only one doing a project reusing the block for a loop, except my 920 is still rock in it in my brothers computer, and I'm using his defective AMD FX8150's Liquid cooler, (which is almost identical to my 920v1, minus a few changes to the chip and board). it had a large air pocket in it from the factory, which after running the 8150 for a year or so, actually melted the plate the impeller mounts on and locked the impeller up, so pump is shot, screw it, bought a el-cheapo chinese pump/res combo for $12 on eBay. Just trying to figure in where the heck I'm going to mount it at this point. Didn't want it so low that it would trap the air in the CPU.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Ah, good to know and thanks for sharing!
> 
> What size tubing does the Antec use? I'm contemplating to replace the tubing with clear tubes.


The ID is 1/4". I'm using two adapters/reducers to go from the 1/4" tubing to 3/8". The reducer is actually 8mm while the the 1/4" tubing is 6mm but it is possible to get 6mm tubing on an 8mm barb. Heck it's possible to get 3/8" tubing on 1/2" barbs, it's just not very easy.

Since this is going in the backup rig I'm not worried how ugly it looks or if there's crazy tubing runs all over the place, as long as it cools well and works all is fine









Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> Good to see I'm not the only one doing a project reusing the block for a loop, except my 920 is still rock in it in my brothers computer, and I'm using his defective AMD FX8150's Liquid cooler, (which is almost identical to my 920v1, minus a few changes to the chip and board). it had a large air pocket in it from the factory, which after running the 8150 for a year or so, actually melted the plate the impeller mounts on and locked the impeller up, so pump is shot, screw it, bought a el-cheapo chinese pump/res combo for $12 on eBay. *Just trying to figure in where the heck I'm going to mount it at this point. Didn't want it so low that it would trap the air in the CPU*.


Can you link what you bought? I'm using this:


Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!







Planning on putting it on top of the power supply. As long as the res itself is trapping the air and it's right before the pump it doesn't matter where you put it. I'll turn the Kuhler's pump on after the loop is full but it probably won't add much flow lol.


----------



## reaver83

This is what I bought. The hose and adapter as well as the brass barb and o-ring I had to buy myself, but it seems to flow well,a little too well. Thinking I may have to reduce the outlet of the pump to 1/4 to get the flow to cool better.


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *reaver83*
> 
> 
> This is what I bought. The hose and adapter as well as the brass barb and o-ring I had to buy myself, but it seems to flow well,a little too well. Thinking I may have to reduce the outlet of the pump to 1/4 to get the flow to cool better.


You should be able to place that anywhere, wherever is most convenient. The air will work it's way through the loop and trap itself in the reservoir, even if the reservoir is the lowest point of the loop. Typically higher flow will net you a small increase in cooling though these cpu blocks are seemingly low flow optimized. Higher flow will definitely help you get the air worked out and into the res faster.

I've decided to move my res+pump combo to the bottom of the case in a perfect little corner. On top of the PSU wasn't going to work out well.


----------



## M3TAl

Reporting in that the custom loop is up and working. Did a quick and dirty OC on a Phenom II x4 955 (3.9 GHz 1.488 vcore on load). Ran 10 runs of IBT and it maxed at 44.6C on the cores (ambient 21.1C) . Not bad, not bad. Still need to fix a few things. Also going to swap in my old FX-8350 to quadruple check that it's 100% dead as I haven't been able to get that chip to work in any of my mobo's.

Blurry phone vid while leak testing and purging air bubbles. Flow is definitely on the low side but eh, it works.





In absolute shock!!!! The FX-8350 is somehow alive and working again after many failed attempts on two motherboards (back when BF1 beta was going). Temps look very, very nice. Running on stock currently and the temps are not even getting into the "accurate load zone".


----------



## c0ld

My 920 still running strong after 5 years. No problems at all, wont upgrade until I do my CPU.


----------



## ihatelolcats

does anyone know what the tubing material is? is it Tygon A-60-G aka norprene? thanks


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *ihatelolcats*
> 
> does anyone know what the tubing material is? is it Tygon A-60-G aka norprene? thanks


Not really 100% sure but it seems to be some kind of norprene.


----------



## olivete

Guys do you have any idea about the GpH or LpH number on a 920?

Mine is 5yo and I want to put in a 360mm rad and I thinking to get a 300lph pump, would be that enough/worth?

Any suggestion? Tyvm!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olivete*
> 
> Guys do you have any idea about the GpH or LpH number on a 920?
> 
> Mine is 5yo and I want to put in a 360mm rad and I thinking to get a 300lph pump, would be that enough/worth?
> 
> Any suggestion? Tyvm!


No idea what the flow is but it's definitely low. Very low. It will help to add another pump, that's what I did. Using the 920 pump + OEM Jingway pump (something like ~400 LPH) with gpu+cpu+3x240 rads and it's working fine. The flow is definitely on the low side but it's working great.


----------



## olivete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> No idea what the flow is but it's definitely low. Very low. It will help to add another pump, that's what I did. Using the 920 pump + OEM Jingway pump (something like ~400 LPH) with gpu+cpu+3x240 rads and it's working fine. The flow is definitely on the low side but it's working great.


Dude! How big is your case? 3 rads?

I got one from the 920 and a 360mm here.

So you using both pumps? 920 + that Jingway at same time? I thought about do that, but does not the antec block the flow?

What about the noise? I am really afraid to get a cheap pump that makes lots of noise and vibrations on my desk :/

Ahhhh thank you very much for your reply!!!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olivete*
> 
> Dude! How big is your case? 3 rads?
> 
> I got one from the 920 and a 360mm here.
> 
> So you using both pumps? 920 + that Jingway at same time? I thought about do that, but does not the antec block the flow?
> 
> What about the noise? I am really afraid to get a cheap pump that makes lots of noise and vibrations on my desk :/
> 
> Ahhhh thank you very much for your reply!!!


Yes, using both at same time. What do you mean by block the flow?

I can't hear the pumps over the fans. With all fans off it would be somewhat audible. The jingway pumps are the oem for the EK DCP/Phobya DC12 pumps. Got mine off Ebay for ~35(?) ~4 years ago or so. I don't have any experience with the super inexpensive Chinese pumps.


Spoiler: Warning: Pic/Vid!












The tubing runs were left overly long and all over the place because 1 it's a backup system and 2 I wanted to be able to swap/service CPU's and the reservoir without draining the loop.


----------



## olivete

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *M3TAl*
> 
> Yes, using both at same time. What do you mean by block the flow?
> 
> I can't hear the pumps over the fans. With all fans off it would be somewhat audible. The jingway pumps are the oem for the EK DCP/Phobya DC12 pumps. Got mine off Ebay for ~35(?) ~4 years ago or so. I don't have any experience with the super inexpensive Chinese pumps.
> 
> 
> Spoiler: Warning: Pic/Vid!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The tubing runs were left overly long and all over the place because 1 it's a backup system and 2 I wanted to be able to swap/service CPU's and the reservoir without draining the loop.


About the block I mean, lets say antecs pumps is like 200lph and the jing is like 400lph, would not the flow be reduced to around 200lph?

holly crap, you got everything running cold, nice!!!


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *olivete*
> 
> About the block I mean, lets say antecs pumps is like 200lph and the jing is like 400lph, would not the flow be reduced to around 200lph?
> 
> holly crap, you got everything running cold, nice!!!


Those flow rates are assuming 0 restriction I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong). With all the restriction from blocks + radiators you're looking at say 75 LPH + 150 LPH (I made these numbers up based on... nothing lol). The two pumps actually work together, meaning in thismade up scenario you would have 75+150= 225 LPH. The flow is the sum of both pumps minus the restriction of the loop.

It's pretty common in custom water rigs for people to run 2 pumps, sometimes even more. My main rig runs 2x MCP50X pumps because it gets equal flow to 1 MCP50X at a lower noise level and it's redundancy if 1 pump fails. You can run 2 MCP50X at ~2000RPM vs 1 MCP50X ~4000RPM and get basically the same flow and typically 2 pumps at 2000 RPM is more quiet than a single pump at 4000 RPM.

I think the one thing to worry about when running 2 pumps of different brands/make is the total combined flow not exceeding the max flow of the weaker pump. If you have a 200 LPH pump and 400 LPH pump and the combined flow with both pumps after restriction is 325 LPH that could potentially damage the 200 LPH pump. I'm no expert on water cooling though, the people in the water cooling section know a lot more and have much more experience than me.


----------



## NIK1

I am tuning up a 5 year old Alienware Aurora pc that has a x58 I7 960 cpu stock clock with a Antec Kühler H2o 920 on it.She idles around 42 and jumps to 50 sometimes at idle.Just wondering if the tim paste needs redoing or has the 920 liquid inside the rad gone down over time.It sat for 3 years in storage and when I first started it up it made a heavy grinding sound in the pump for a while but that noise is gone a few months back now.If I remember right it used to idle around 26-29 a long while back..This old beast is for my little nephew so any help with this much appreciated...I do have a new Corsair H75 I could use if all else fails...


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NIK1*
> 
> I am tuning up a 5 year old Alienware Aurora pc that has a x58 I7 960 cpu stock clock with a Antec Kühler H2o 920 on it.She idles around 42 and jumps to 50 sometimes at idle.Just wondering if the tim paste needs redoing or has the 920 liquid inside the rad gone down over time.It sat for 3 years in storage and when I first started it up it made a heavy grinding sound in the pump for a while but that noise is gone a few months back now.If I remember right it used to idle around 26-29 a long while back..This old beast is for my little nephew so any help with this much appreciated...I do have a new Corsair H75 I could use if all else fails...


My 920 had a ton of crud/buildup in it. To the point where the fittings were almost clogged.

If you're up to it take the entire thing apart and give it a good cleaning then refill it.


----------



## Anth

Can I ask, does anyone know of a way to get the 920 to work with AM4 motherboards. I contacted Antec but they said they had no intentions of offering AM4 bracket for the 920.

There has been talk of Asetek retention brackets also working with the 920 also. Anyone tried this?


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## 442Olds

Hello! New to this forum. I hope I'm posting in the right place. I have an older Kuhler 620, purchased some years ago for an older rig. That was probably around 2010 or so, and I used it until I built my new machine around 2014. It has sat in the old case attached to the ooard until this week, when I pulled the cooler out, and took the old board out. I have the cooler boxed up in the original box now, with all hardware. It was originally used with a Gigabyte EP45C-UD3R board, with an LGA 775 processor. The setup I have now is an AMD FX4350 Black Edition, Socket AM3+. I still have the original mounting brackets to use for mounting the AMD.

I never had a minutes trouble out of this cooler, and it always ran quiet. With the age of this cooler, and that it has sat so long, would it be safe to try it again? I see no signs of leakage or damage. I would hate to hook it up and fry the processor. It would be nice to be able to cut the noise down on my current system.

BTW, I read the link about the differences between the V1 and V4, and this looks like a V4, because the wires run out the top.

Any thoughts?


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## blaze2210

You could try just connecting the 620 to your system (without installing the pump/block on the CPU) to make sure that it runs properly, and to gain some "peace of mind".


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## 442Olds

That's a great idea! I checked the motherboard layout (Asus M5A99X Evo R2.0), and saw that there are two CPU fan connectors (CPU fan and CPU Opt). I had forgotten about that (been a while since I did any work with the board...great board, BTW),

I'll give that a shot and see what happens...may let the pump run a bit to let it circulate.

Thanks for the tip!


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## 442Olds

Ok, just tried it, and pump is working fine. Also found a blue L:ED Antec fan, like new, that I have plugged into the fan connector on the pump. It's working good, also. I'll try to get to this over the weekend...need to clean the dust out anyway.

Thanks! I'll let you know how it works.


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## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *442Olds*
> 
> Ok, just tried it, and pump is working fine. Also found a blue L:ED Antec fan, like new, that I have plugged into the fan connector on the pump. It's working good, also. I'll try to get to this over the weekend...need to clean the dust out anyway.
> 
> Thanks! I'll let you know how it works.


Very nice! At least you know that it's actually worth cleaning out now. Looking forward to seeing results. Remember, we all love pics....


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## 442Olds

Thanks! I took the computer out and blew the dust out of it, and got ready to change the heat sink over to the cooler. Found out I need to pick up some foam pads to stick on the back plate. There were only two pads included in the kit, and I had already used them. So I either get some spray glue for the old pads, or pick up some self stick foam padding from someplace like Wal Mart. I did get the metal ring ready by reusing the pieces from the old Intel ring.

I'll put it together soon when I get the pads. I'll need to clean the thermal paste off. I have the Arctic Silver 5 paste, and the cleaner and purifier for the copper cooler pad and the processor. The instructions for the Arctic Silver say to "tint" the heat sink and processor cap with thermal compound first, using a credit card to work the compound into the surface, then wipe the excess off with a lint free cloth (I've always used a coffee filter - cheap and works great with no lint). It then says to put a small dot in the middle of the processor and rotate it slightly, letting the pressure spread the compound out.

I'll post some pics when I get it done. Thanks for the help and support!


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## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *442Olds*
> 
> Thanks! I took the computer out and blew the dust out of it, and got ready to change the heat sink over to the cooler. Found out I need to pick up some foam pads to stick on the back plate. There were only two pads included in the kit, and I had already used them. So I either get some spray glue for the old pads, or pick up some self stick foam padding from someplace like Wal Mart. I did get the metal ring ready by reusing the pieces from the old Intel ring.
> 
> I'll put it together soon when I get the pads. I'll need to clean the thermal paste off. I have the Arctic Silver 5 paste, and the cleaner and purifier for the copper cooler pad and the processor. The instructions for the Arctic Silver say to "tint" the heat sink and processor cap with thermal compound first, using a credit card to work the compound into the surface, then wipe the excess off with a lint free cloth (I've always used a coffee filter - cheap and works great with no lint). It then says to put a small dot in the middle of the processor and rotate it slightly, letting the pressure spread the compound out.
> 
> I'll post some pics when I get it done. Thanks for the help and support!


Sounds like you have it pretty well figured out now, glad I could help out!









Side note: you should give Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut a try. I bought a little tube of it to try it out, and it works really well, and is easy to work with.


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## 442Olds

Got some more questions for you. This motherboard has a metal backing plate behind the board. There are mounting brackets screwed to the other side of the board, to clip the stock heatsink in place. I think this plate has to be removed. Does anyone know if this can be taken off (in other words, is it glued to the board, as well as being fastened to the board with screws)? It looks like the plastic mounts on the front would have to come off in order to attach the metal ring to the board.

Does anyone have experience with the Asus M5A99X Evo R2.0 and the Kuhler 620 setup (or other types for that matter)/ I've attached some links for some pictures (yes, it is still dusty...will have to do a more thorough cleaning when I change this out).

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063408_zpsaznzklii.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063813_zpsfcetqbax.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063826_zpsblc4rlgy.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063826_zpsblc4rlgy.jpg

http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_071515_zpsetbntehy.jpg

Another question: Would it help at all to use two fans (push/pull) instead of one? It seems that both fans would have to run at the same speed - only one would hook to the pump, and the one in the case is connected to a molex connector. I'd think the speed would be different.


----------



## blaze2210

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *442Olds*
> 
> Got some more questions for you. This motherboard has a metal backing plate behind the board. There are mounting brackets screwed to the other side of the board, to clip the stock heatsink in place. I think this plate has to be removed. Does anyone know if this can be taken off (in other words, is it glued to the board, as well as being fastened to the board with screws)? It looks like the plastic mounts on the front would have to come off in order to attach the metal ring to the board.
> 
> Does anyone have experience with the Asus M5A99X Evo R2.0 and the Kuhler 620 setup (or other types for that matter)/ I've attached some links for some pictures (yes, it is still dusty...will have to do a more thorough cleaning when I change this out).
> 
> http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063408_zpsaznzklii.jpg
> 
> http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063813_zpsfcetqbax.jpg
> 
> http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063826_zpsblc4rlgy.jpg
> 
> http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_063826_zpsblc4rlgy.jpg
> 
> http://i238.photobucket.com/albums/ff279/_AH_Olds/20170625_071515_zpsetbntehy.jpg
> 
> Another question: Would it help at all to use two fans (push/pull) instead of one? It seems that both fans would have to run at the same speed - only one would hook to the pump, and the one in the case is connected to a molex connector. I'd think the speed would be different.


Your pics aren't loading when the links are clicked. Instead of pasting the link in the message, click on the  above the text box for replying. This will put the images in your reply.

Push/pull can potentially drop temps, but its not dramatic (in my experience on Kuhler 620, H100i, and H100i v2). If you wanted to hook both fans to the pump, you'd need a fan splitter.


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## 442Olds

Ok, I think i have it figured out (couldn't get the IMG link to work from Photobucket, but the direct link worked.











Hope these work. I made them as small as I could.

Thanks for the tip on how to post pics.


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## blaze2210

Based on those pics, it looks like you'll be replacing that current backplate with the new one. A quick search confirms this also.

https://youtu.be/zGk8ohbmG1U?t=302


----------



## diggiddi

I'm actually using that very type of backplate with my 620 since the one that came with cooler is messed up


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## 442Olds

Nice video! Same way I'm doing mine. Not sure if just using the pea method is enough, or if I should go ahead and tint the processor and the water block. As for the push/pull, not sure I want to do that. Might just put the radiator on the back, and have the led fan blowing into the radiator. Thanks for the link!


----------



## 442Olds

Changed out the heat sink and fan yesterday. When I went to pull the original heat sink off, I unlocked it, and it was stuck. When it came off, it pulled the processor off with it!







It had the original thermal pad on it...should have removed that when I first put it on. I've never seen one stuck like that. Thankfully, none of the pins were damaged, and neither was the base where it mounted. I cleaned the processor and water block with the Arctic Clean 1 and 2 solutions, then put a small amount of Arctic Silver 5 on and tinted both the processor and water block. I used a very small amount of thermal paste on the processor (less than the size of a pea). Everything is working great now, much quieter, with the highest temp I've seen around 43 deg C, after running IL2 1946. It was idling after that around 40. Much cooler than before, with temps around 54 C when gaming. Did a lot of cleaning to it, also, including the heat sink on the video card. It's also very quiet now, which is much better than hearing the fans running hard.

Here's some pics:





It seems to have some pretty steady temps. Think this will work ok. I might go for another LED fans in the top, to cool it down even further (about 34 C right now)....might even change to red









Thanks for the help and advice!


----------



## NFleck

Would the 620 be able to handle a reservoir and a 240mm rad or is the flow rate too low? And can you put two aio pumps in the same circuit? Would this create turbulence or worse? And if it is OK, would a h100 and a khuler 620 work in the same loop for cpu and gpu? The biggest problem is the 1/4" barbs which would probably restrict the flow if you tried to cool cpu+gpu, but even if it can handle a reservoir and a 240mm rad that would be great.
I have several mounting solutions for different cards, so I'm just curious about the 620s pump rate.

Edit: plywood's mod seems to cover this so no need to answer. Should have searched better. Lol


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *NFleck*
> 
> Would the 620 be able to handle a reservoir and a 240mm rad or is the flow rate too low? And can you put two aio pumps in the same circuit? Would this create turbulence or worse? And if it is OK, would a h100 and a khuler 620 work in the same loop for cpu and gpu? The biggest problem is the 1/4" barbs which would probably restrict the flow if you tried to cool cpu+gpu, but even if it can handle a reservoir and a 240mm rad that would be great.
> I have several mounting solutions for different cards, so I'm just curious about the 620s pump rate.
> 
> Edit: plywood's mod seems to cover this so no need to answer. Should have searched better. Lol


I'm running a 920 + jingway pump, 3x240mm rads, and a tiny little res. The flow is low but it works fine.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Hey guys







it's been a while

Looks like I need to refill some liquid, quite a bit has evaporated over the last 4-5 years. Is this relatively easy? You just take off the tubes where the barbs are and then stick em back on?


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## diggiddi

Good luck, I dont think its that easy, u might need to get new tubes and clamps but its worth shot,
also don't forget you'll need to flush and replace with new fluid with corrosion and antibac props


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *diggiddi*
> 
> Good luck, I dont think its that easy, u might need to get new tubes and clamps but its worth shot,
> also don't forget you'll need to flush and replace with new fluid with corrosion and antibac props


It's been done successfully by others, I'm not too worried. I was looking for tips from someone who might have done this before.


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## Krysaenaar

Guys,

Have my 920 for 5 years. Not too much use. temps look normal and the unit looks sound.

Should i be thinking about replacing the unit due to age?

Be proactive against a potential leak in the coming months/years maybe?


----------



## M3TAl

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> It's been done successfully by others, I'm not too worried. I was looking for tips from someone who might have done this before.


Somewhere deep in this thread there is/were some pics of someone that refilled theirs years ago. I think they used a big container or bucket and submerged the tubes in it? Then let the fluid cycle through it for awhile to work bubbles out and connected the tubing back to the radiator while submerged in the container. Something like that. I wouldn't submerge the actual block though, the housing for the PCB probably isn't sealed to keep water out.


----------



## Jul24th

Hi guys, so glad to find this thread. I've just got a used 620 today, after securing the bracket and tighten the 4 screw of the pump mount. The pump feel very loosely even though the screw are very tight. I'm installing it on a 775 socket. Any ideas?


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jul24th*
> 
> Hi guys, so glad to find this thread. I've just got a used 620 today, after securing the bracket and tighten the 4 screw of the pump mount. The pump feel very loosely even though the screw are very tight. I'm installing it on a 775 socket. Any ideas?


Seems normal for both the 620 and the 920. I only retired my 920 last week and always struggled whenever installing it on a new motherboard. Biggest issue is there are no standoffs so it's always a toss up between over-tightening (and ending up with bent pins) vs the pump being too loose. Fwiw I just made sure I didn't *over* tighten, and then ran with it as long as my temps were ok.


----------



## Jul24th

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> Seems normal for both the 620 and the 920. I only retired my 920 last week and always struggled whenever installing it on a new motherboard. Biggest issue is there are no standoffs so it's always a toss up between over-tightening (and ending up with bent pins) vs the pump being too loose. Fwiw I just made sure I didn't *over* tighten, and then ran with it as long as my temps were ok.


So are they supposed to be loosely like that? I can even tilt it on its side a bit. And my CPU temp was going off the roof, the cooler wasn't cooling anything.


----------



## 8bitG33k

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *Jul24th*
> 
> So are they supposed to be loosely like that? I can even tilt it on its side a bit. And my CPU temp was going off the roof, the cooler wasn't cooling anything.


No, they are not supposed to be loose! But it's easy to have them too loose when trying to not overtightened. I'm just saying this pump/plate can be tricky to get on *just right*.

How much fluid is left in the rad? Being a first gen AIO it does evaporate over time, and depending on how long it was used before you got it, it's possible that quite a bit has evaporated. Luckily the coolant can be replaced, there is at least one guide buried in this thread somewhere.


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## 8bitG33k

PS: What I'm saying is, it can *seem* loose but it actually isn't. If you tighten it just a tiny bit more you may well end up with bent pins. Happened to me on two boards before I learned my lesson. In your case I think it may be that you may have it slightly skewed. It happens easily.


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## M3TAl

Just thought I'd mention that the 920 I chopped up and turned into a custom loop had the pump die, not sure exactly when it happened. Connecting the 3 pin to the mobo or directly to the PSU doesn't make any difference. Going to have to add a 2ND pump as the single Jingway pump can't really handle the loop by itself.

Wonder if it's better the open the 920 again and remove the impeller and magnet completely? Or just leave it in there?


----------



## Jul24th

Quote:


> Originally Posted by *8bitG33k*
> 
> No, they are not supposed to be loose! But it's easy to have them too loose when trying to not overtightened. I'm just saying this pump/plate can be tricky to get on *just right*.
> 
> How much fluid is left in the rad? Being a first gen AIO it does evaporate over time, and depending on how long it was used before you got it, it's possible that quite a bit has evaporated. Luckily the coolant can be replaced, there is at least one guide buried in this thread somewhere.


I took a closer look, and turned out that the pump was running and the propeller was rotating but water was not running through the unit... Like not at all, pump was running but no water.


----------



## bobsaget

Hi guys, 

I recently acquired a second-hand H620 v4.

The fan is way too loud for my liking. I was wondering if any 120mm PWM replacement fan would properly work when attached to the pump. Or should I plug the replacement fan directly into a mobo header ?

Any fan recommandation ? I was leaning towards the Artic F12 PWM since it's extremely cheap.

Thanks !


----------



## pistolpete_1980

*Chill Control Software*

I reset my windows 10 pc and tried to download chill control from antecs website, its now called grid 

I installed that and now it says it doesn't detect a usb connection. I tried a couple things , run as admin etc. but nothing worked.

I dont have time to really fiddle with fan software, the chill control worked just fine. does anyone know where i can find a copy of chill control?

Regards


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## user512

pistolpete_1980 said:


> I reset my windows 10 pc and tried to download chill control from antecs website, its now called grid
> 
> I installed that and now it says it doesn't detect a usb connection. I tried a couple things , run as admin etc. but nothing worked.
> 
> I dont have time to really fiddle with fan software, the chill control worked just fine. does anyone know where i can find a copy of chill control?
> 
> Regards


https://web.archive.org/web/2014070...tec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip


----------



## Neo13

I am trying to install the Driver on Windows 10, 64 Bit.
I keep getting this error:
Cannot connect to Chill Control device.
Check USB connection on device and restart the Chill Control Application.

I have tried everything I found on internet, both 1.0 and 1.2 Versions and still nothing. Any ideas how to get it to work..?


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## Mahigan

user512 said:


> https://web.archive.org/web/2014070...tec.com/download/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip


Wow... I'm going to kiss you bud 

Thanks!


----------



## Karsten36

Anyone have a chillcontroll vi to download, cant find at google (


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## Karsten36

*double post


----------



## Karsten36

*double post


----------



## von rottes

Just pulled apart and cleaned up and refilled my old 620. trying to recycle as much as possible to build my girlfriend a "art" rig... essentially just going to be my old gaming rig from 2012


----------



## crazycrave

I still use my 620 on my x5660 .


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## reaver83

Currently doing a refill and refresh for my 920 I bought back in 2011, that I gave to my brother when his FX-8150 stock Asetek cooler quit. Going to be painted pink and put in my nieces "new" (my brothers old) gaming rig. Pics to come


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## reaver83

*update to refill* need Chill control V, installed it on clean install of windows, in BIOS the CPU only has presets for CPU power, no bueno. bout to temp run it on a Molex to Fan adapter.


----------



## Heuchler

any updates on the picture on the custom 920. Will need to refill a 2011 620. hopefully the pump is still good.


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## reaver83

All I did was paint it and use the plate from the dead FX-8150 cooler, and bought Noctua P-12 Redux fans and rubber vibration dampers for them. Usually what fails on these pumps is the teflon shaft for the impeller gets gunked up with corrosion, or the cold plate gets gunked up on the fins. Pretty easy to fix, just make sure you have a good set of drivers.


----------



## Heuchler

Nice build. Just got pink paracord to mod a mouse for my niece.

Thanks for the info on user refurbishing these AIO. So many projects...ohh look another interesting post to read.


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## reaver83

This one did work when pulled apart, but if I moved the system while off the pump would bind up. When I pulled it apart, the hole for the impeller shaft had wallered out, so I did replace the impeller with the dead FX-8150 pump impeller. I also soaked the copper cold plate in a Vinegar/salt solution to get rid of varnish, just before putting the coolant back in, then wiped the contact side off with a thin coat of Mx4 thermal compound to keep it from varnishing again. The coolant was pretty clean, so I reused it and just added distilled water to it. Between the coolant from the FX-8150 cooler and the Antec Cooler, it only filled it 1/2 way! Adding 8 oz. Of distilled water still left room in the cooler for air!


----------



## M5ilencer

Hey guys, im having trouble installing my Antec Kühler H20 920 CPU Liquid Cooling System software, purchased 5/4/11 to install on windows 10 pro x64. All I did was swap mobo/cpu and new drivers.

It was working before on windows 10 pro x64 now im getting "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)" in Device Manager as im reading is the case with everyone else. I've installed the latest "Microsoft .NET Framework 4.8" and no luck. I've tried the CD and version 1.2 and no go and can't even open the software to run its internal update. If anyone has a working file please upload it to https://www.mediafire.com its really easy to sign up, its free.

Need working Software/Driver. Thanks


----------



## reaver83

This worked on mine...
https://www.mediafire.com/file/s69rj6yrkcbfudi/KUHLER_ChillControl_V1_2.zip/file


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## M5ilencer

Tried it no luck I believe I already had that version. Im just using the only available USB header on a MITX 1150 Z87 ROG ASUS VI IMPACT MOBO https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813132039, I had a MATX 1150 Z87 ROG Maximus Gene VI MOBO prior before this and the Antec software was working.


----------



## onefootswill

Big thanks to user512 as well!

I have a question about cleaning the radiator (apologies if this has been asked. I did search the forum first).

I have a Antec Kuhler H20 920. So, being a self-enclosed system, I want to tread carefully.

The radiator has not been cleaned since I did my build in 2012







.

I'm really not sure how to go about cleaning that. My first instinct was to hit it with compressed air, but I've been reading a lot of posts where people run water through it. But those posts are all to do with systems which are not "self-enclosed".

Should I just take it over to the nearest sink and pour distilled water through it?
Any rust issues with that?

Thanks


----------

