# Should I be worried? Paying for assemble



## TwoCables

I will never let anyone build my computer for me unless I am physically unable to do it. Working stupid hours is a pain in the rear-end, but you can do a little bit each day. No one will take as much care putting your system together as you. These places that build computers for people do so as quickly as they can. You will be able to take as much time as you please, meaning you can make sure it's done perfectly _and to your complete satisfaction._

What if something goes wrong? Will you have to ship it back? Will that cost you money? What about them shipping it back to you? Will that cost you money too?

How do we know they'll apply the thermal compound perfectly? How will we be able to know they did?! We have seen problems with that before on OCN. Everyone has their own little way of doing it, and these companies can't be breathing down the necks of each employee each step of the way of each and every build they do. With OCN helping you, you'll be able to do it better than 99% of the people on this planet. lol

What if you want to sell one of the parts, like the video card or something? You won't have any of the retail boxes! That would bother me quite a bit. Granted, I don't like having all these boxes sitting around, but still.

Seriously, if you let someone else do it, you'll have more stress than if you build it yourself. If you build it yourself, you'll know how well it was built. If something goes wrong, then you get to be the one who fixes it, and you'll more than likely know what's wrong since you built it.

Another reason I'll never let someone else build my computer is, I don't want to risk having someone's sweaty/grubby hands touching my stuff.

Oh, and if you build it yourself, you'll have much more love for it than you would if someone else built it for you.


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## Transient Gamer

i have ordered a custom build last month, its in my sig below.. I usually build my own, but the store, a reputable chain of well known computer shops in Canada, was selling RTX3070s at almost MSRP IN-STORE. Only with the condition that it would be part of a full build, to avoid selling to cryptominers (one can argue you can resell the card indeed), getting their techs some work and also to sell more parts I guess. Built fees were $50CDN. I wanted my ASUS 3070 TUF OC and I got it! The cable management is ok. I got all the boxes. It is important for me to get all boxes, so i can RMA a component later down the road.
Its somehow fishy that you aren't getting the boxes. Is it a shipping reason? What are they giving you for a reason?


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> I will never let anyone build my computer for me unless I am physically unable to do it. Working stupid hours is a pain in the rear-end, but you can do a little bit each day. No one will take as much care putting your system together as you. These places that build computers for people do so as quickly as they can. You will be able to take as much time as you please, meaning you can make sure it's done perfectly _and to your complete satisfaction._
> 
> What if something goes wrong? Will you have to ship it back? Will that cost you money? What about them shipping it back to you? Will that cost you money too?
> 
> How do we know they'll apply the thermal compound perfectly? How will we be able to know they did?! We have seen problems with that before on OCN. Everyone has their own little way of doing it, and these companies can't be breathing down the necks of each employee each step of the way of each and every build they do. With OCN helping you, you'll be able to do it better than 99% of the people on this planet. lol
> 
> What if you want to sell one of the parts, like the video card or something? You won't have any of the retail boxes! That would bother me quite a bit. Granted, I don't like having all these boxes sitting around, but still.
> 
> Seriously, if you let someone else do it, you'll have more stress than if you build it yourself. If you build it yourself, you'll know how well it was built. If something goes wrong, then you get to be the one who fixes it, and you'll more than likely know what's wrong since you built it.
> 
> Another reason I'll never let someone else build my computer is, I don't want to risk having someone's sweaty/grubby hands touching my stuff.
> 
> Oh, and if you build it yourself, you'll have much more love for it than you would if someone else built it for you.


Your reply alone just made me phone up and change my mind. I am having the parts delivered without it being built. Now at least I have the components inside the boxes lol.

However now I have to deal with the stress of building it myself. Even the bios, I don't have usb stick to flash it etc. UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH


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## kiriakos

Samzon said:


> I think I'm just overreacting but not having the boxes of the parks I individually picked out just feels weird to me.


No, your sanity this is 100% good and this is healthy behaviour of educated consumer.
Carton boxes those are loaded with valuable serial codes for on-line products registration regarding warranty.
And also some products come along with Free games and other offers, that the carton box this is a proof of their existence.

Paying for assemble this is best solution, operating system configuration issues will be resolved prior the PC comes to you.


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## Samzon

kiriakos said:


> No, your sanity this is 100% good and this is healthy behaviour of educated consumer.
> Carton boxes those are loaded with valuable serial codes for on-line products registration regarding warranty.
> And also some products come along with Free games and other offers, that the carton box this is a proof of their existence.


I phoned and told them I want to assemble it myself. I will have the parts delivered in it's original boxes. However I'm clueless, and I heard I need to update the bios without the cpu installed. Now I'm going to be lost!


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Your reply alone just made me phone up and change my mind. I am having the parts delivered without it being built. Now at least I have the components inside the boxes lol.
> 
> However now I have to deal with the stress of building it myself. Even the bios, I don't have usb stick to flash it etc. UGHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH


You'll be so very happy. I know I'm happy for you.

There's no stress. You're over-thinking it! We are here for you. Oh, and so is YouTube.  You have no reason to worry. Building a computer is about as easy as putting together a fairly easy Lego kit.

Edit: Why do you want to update the BIOS so soon?


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## mothergoose729

Why do you need to update the bios on new parts before assembly?

Putting a computer together is not very difficult these days. It is kind of like Legos. Just stay patient, don't rush, and if you are unsure about anything take some pictures and post here and we can help.

I think it is a good idea to keep the original boxes and it is bizarre they wouldn't do that for you.


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## kiriakos

Samzon said:


> I phoned and told them I want to assemble it myself. I will have the parts delivered in it's original boxes. However I'm clueless, and I heard I need to update the bios without the cpu installed. Now I'm going to be lost!


Call them back and inform them that you changed your opinion, they will be happy and you will save your self from troubles.


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I phoned and told them I want to assemble it myself. I will have the parts delivered in it's original boxes. However I'm clueless, and I heard I need to update the bios without the cpu installed. Now I'm going to be lost!


What motherboard will the system have? What CPU? I doubt you need to update the BIOS right away. Even if you did, a USB flash drive is what, 10-20 pounds? You could have one delivered to you from some store in just a couple of days.

You'll be floored by how easy building a computer is!


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## Samzon

kiriakos said:


> Call them back and inform them that you changed your opinion, they will be happy and you will save your self from troubles.


I did. I will have the parts delivered in their boxes!


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> What motherboard will the system have? What CPU? I doubt you need to update the BIOS right away. Even if you did, a USB flash drive is what, 10-20 pounds? You could have one delivered to you from some store in just a couple of days.
> 
> You'll be floored by how easy building a computer is!


I'm kind of scared. Apparently I have to update the bios without the CPU in. I bought a physical copy of windows 10 but how do I install that without a cd drive? I need to buy a USB stick, right? How big?

*Case* - Planteks Eclipse P500 Air ATX
*CPU* - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Eight-Core Processor/CPU, without Cooler
*Motherboard* - MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI AMD X570 Chipset (Socket AM4) ATX Motherboard
*PSU* - Corsair HX Series? HX850 ? 850 Watt 80 PLUS® Platinum Certified Fully Modular
*RAM* - G.SKILL TRIDENT Z NEO 32GB CL17 (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz Dual Channel Memory (RAM) Kit
*SSD* - Samsung 980 PRO 1TB NVME M.2 Solid State Drive/SSD
*CPU Cooler* - Noctua NH-D15S Dual Radiator Quiet CPU Cooler


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I'm kind of scared. Apparently I have to update the bios without the CPU in. I bought a physical copy of windows 10 but how do I install that without a cd drive? I need to buy a USB stick, right? How big?
> 
> *Case* - Planteks Eclipse P500 Air ATX
> *CPU* - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Eight-Core Processor/CPU, without Cooler
> *Motherboard* - MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI AMD X570 Chipset (Socket AM4) ATX Motherboard
> *PSU* - Corsair HX Series? HX850 ? 850 Watt 80 PLUS® Platinum Certified Fully Modular
> *RAM* - G.SKILL TRIDENT Z NEO 32GB CL17 (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz Dual Channel Memory (RAM) Kit
> *SSD* - Samsung 980 PRO 1TB NVME M.2 Solid State Drive/SSD
> *CPU Cooler* - Noctua NH-D15S Dual Radiator Quiet CPU Cooler


Oh I don't know AMD's stuff. Who says you need to update the BIOS first before installing that CPU? Even if it has to be done, it has an extremely easy way to do it. Check out page 46: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C84v1.1.pdf


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## Shawnb99

Samzon said:


> I phoned and told them I want to assemble it myself. I will have the parts delivered in it's original boxes. However I'm clueless, and I heard I need to update the bios without the cpu installed. Now I'm going to be lost!


That’s easy to do. Follow the instructions for your MB but for the most part it’s download the new bios, extract to USB drive, plug it into MB and once in bios go to update and should be good to go.




Samzon said:


> I'm kind of scared. Apparently I have to update the bios without the CPU in. I bought a physical copy of windows 10 but how do I install that without a cd drive? I need to buy a USB stick, right? How big?
> 
> *Case* - Planteks Eclipse P500 Air ATX
> *CPU* - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Eight-Core Processor/CPU, without Cooler
> *Motherboard* - MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI AMD X570 Chipset (Socket AM4) ATX Motherboard
> *PSU* - Corsair HX Series? HX850 ? 850 Watt 80 PLUS® Platinum Certified Fully Modular
> *RAM* - G.SKILL TRIDENT Z NEO 32GB CL17 (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz Dual Channel Memory (RAM) Kit
> *SSD* - Samsung 980 PRO 1TB NVME M.2 Solid State Drive/SSD
> *CPU Cooler* - Noctua NH-D15S Dual Radiator Quiet CPU Cooler


You install Windows off a USB drive. Go to the windows install tool side and download it into a USB then boot from that to install


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## TwoCables

You'll be floored by how easy building a computer is! When I joined OCN in 2008, I came here with what I thought was a genius idea of buying one of the local computer shop's custom-built computers (it was pre-built, but it was custom-built, meaning it was essentially the same end result as building one yourself). OCN saved me and convinced me to buy all the parts individually from various stores like Newegg and Amazon etc. and then build it myself. *I am so extremely glad I did!* I ended up with a better system than I was looking at buying and I paid around the same price, and I loved it more than I think I could have loved a pre-built because it was *my creation.* I built it with my own hands.

You'll love it and you'll see why we love it.


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## Slaughtahouse

As long as the motherboard has a bios flashback button, you can update the BIOS without a CPU. X570 was released before Zen 3, so this may be required to boot your PC.

Luckily for you, the motherboard does has a flashback button. See link below for detailed instructions 









How to update the MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk WiFi BIOS to support the AMD Zen 3 Series (Ryzen 5000) – MBReviews


You will need three things in order to update the BIOS on the MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk WiFi: the motherboard itself, the PSU and a very basic, low-storage USB




www.mbreviews.com





Yes, it was a good choice in requesting all original packaging but as a counter point this thread, I would of asked if they could have assembled the PC for you + ship you all original packaging. Nevertheless, it's better to quality control yourself. Even if you don't have the time.

You'll have a better understanding of the components and in the event something goes wrong, how to diagnostic yourself and not spend money.


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## Samzon

Slaughtahouse said:


> As long as the motherboard has a bios flashback button, you can update the BIOS without a CPU. X570 was released before Zen 3, so this may be required to boot your PC.
> 
> Luckily for you, the motherboard does has a flashback button. See link below for detailed instructions
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> How to update the MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk WiFi BIOS to support the AMD Zen 3 Series (Ryzen 5000) – MBReviews
> 
> 
> You will need three things in order to update the BIOS on the MSI MAG X570 Tomahawk WiFi: the motherboard itself, the PSU and a very basic, low-storage USB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> www.mbreviews.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yes, it was a good choice in requesting all original packaging but as a counter point this thread, I would of asked if they could have assembled the PC for you + ship you all original packaging. Nevertheless, it's better to quality control yourself. Even if you don't have the time.
> 
> You'll have a better understanding of the components and in the event something goes wrong, how to diagnostic yourself and not spend money.


did i really need physical copy of windows? I mean its just the key i need right?


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> did i really need physical copy of windows? I mean its just the key i need right?


You only need a legit, genuine Product Key. You can make an installer out of a USB flash drive 8GB or larger using the Media Creation Tool: Download Windows 10 (it's extremely easy) Just make sure it's a flash drive that has nothing on it you want to keep, or copy everything from it you want to keep to a safe place.


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## Slaughtahouse

It's just a key. You can find them online for 20 GBP or less. My system is based on an key I received in an email. I've just archived the email...


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## TwoCables

Slaughtahouse said:


> It's just a key. You can find them online for 20 GBP or less. My system is based on an key I received in an email. I've just archived the email...


Those aren't legit. They are always at risk of being blacklisted by Microsoft because they are created by unscrupulous individuals who have an MSDN account. You can generate as many Product Keys as you want with an MSDN account, but it costs money to have an MSDN account. So these pieces of trash slimebags are making tons of money off of everyone by selling these Product Keys that costs them nothing except for the MSDN subscription to create! It's nearly 100% profit for these slimeballs. The EULA of an MSDN account strictly prohibits the sale of these Product Keys. They are only for the developer to use on their own software development systems.


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Those aren't legit. They are always at risk of being blacklisted by Microsoft because they are created by unscrupulous individuals who have an MSDN account. You can generate as many Product Keys as you want with an MSDN account, but it costs money to have an MSDN account. So these pieces of trash slimebags are making tons of money off of everyone by selling these Product Keys that costs them nothing except for the MSDN subscription to create! It's nearly 100% profit for these slimeballs. The EULA of an MSDN account strictly prohibits the sale of these Product Keys. They are only for the developer to use on their own software development systems.


The physical copy I ordered. This is fine right? It's just the key and it's legitimate right? I'm panicking whether or not its what I should of bought

Ill buy a usb stick


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> The physical copy I ordered. This is fine right? It's just the key and it's legitimate right? I'm panicking whether or not its what I should of bought


Ordered from where? May I see the product page of what you ordered?

Do you have a legit Windows 7 or Windows 8.1 Product Key? You can still use a Windows 7 or 8.1 Product Key to activate Windows, provided it's the same edition (Home for Home, Pro for Pro).


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## Slaughtahouse

Define legitimate..  If they are subscribing to Microsoft and paying them to have an MSDN account to generate keys, than no harm is being done...right 

@Samzon, you're fine. No more panicking.


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## TwoCables

Slaughtahouse said:


> Define legitimate..  If they are subscribing to Microsoft and paying them to have an MSDN account to generate keys, than no harm is being done...right


No, the harm is that what they are doing is strictly forbidden by the EULA. Those keys are at risk of being blacklisted by Microsoft at any moment, and millions have already been blacklisted.

Again, an MSDN account holder can *NOT *sell any of those Product Keys. They can't even GIVE them away. They are for the MSDN account holder to use _*only*_. On their own systems. For software development purposes. Only. It's a very strict part of the EULA. If they are caught, then they are banned from having an MSDN account.

We each also represent Overclock.net, and Overclock.net cannot and does not support or recommend using these Product Keys because any one of us can cause Overclock.net to be held responsible by Microsoft for recommending it.


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> You only need a legit, genuine Product Key. You can make an installer out of a USB flash drive 8GB or larger using the Media Creation Tool: Download Windows 10 (it's extremely easy) Just make sure it's a flash drive that has nothing on it you want to keep, or copy everything from it you want to keep to a safe place.


What size usb do I need to do the flash bios and install windows?


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> What size usb do I need to do the flash bios and install windows?


8 GB or larger, exactly as I said. It's also on that page. Just slow down my friend. Read.  You're in good hands.

You'll be so surprised in the end by how fun and easy this is. You'll want to do it again, and again, and again, and again...


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## Slaughtahouse

TwoCables said:


> No, the harm is that what they are doing is strictly forbidden by the EULA. Those keys are at risk of being blacklisted by Microsoft at any moment, and millions have already been blacklisted.
> 
> Again, an MSDN account holder can *NOT *sell any of those Product Keys. They can't even GIVE them away. They are for the MSDN account holder to use _*only*_. On their own systems. For software development purposes. Only. It's a very strict part of the EULA. If they are caught, then they are banned from having an MSDN account.
> 
> We each also represent Overclock.net, and Overclock.net cannot and does not support or recommend using these Product Keys because any one of us can cause Overclock.net to be held responsible by Microsoft for recommending it.


Thank you for the clarity. I was not aware of these conditions within the EULA.


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## TwoCables

Slaughtahouse said:


> Thank you for the clarity. I was not aware of these conditions within the EULA.


Yeah it's pretty bad how many people are doing it and getting away with it. :/ Now sure, maybe the chances of your key being blacklisted might be so low that maybe it'll never happen, but the chance is still there which would leave you stuck forced to buy another - or a genuine one so that you avoid having another chance of it happening again.


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## TwoCables

@Samzon do you have a Windows 7 or 8.1 Product Key? Windows 10 can still be activated using one of those keys.


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> @Samzon do you have a Windows 7 or 8.1 Product Key? Windows 10 can still be activated using one of those keys.


No. I will have windows 10 physically. I'll just use that key it's fine.
What size usb do I need to buy which can be used to flash bios and put windows on it?
Do I need antistatic wristband?


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## kairi_zeroblade

Samzon said:


> I phoned and told them I want to assemble it myself. I will have the parts delivered in it's original boxes. However I'm clueless, and I heard I need to update the bios without the cpu installed. Now I'm going to be lost!


update what basically?? a USB drive formatted to FAT32 should do the trick..



Samzon said:


> No. I will have windows 10 physically. I'll just use that key it's fine.
> What size usb do I need to buy which can be used to flash bios and put windows on it?
> Do I need antistatic wristband?


most effective are the 4gb down to 2gb ones..though some have luck on higher capacities..


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## Slaughtahouse

^ That is how I did it. It's a free upgrade and (in a much older time) Microsoft was selling those keys (legitimately) for cheap...

No, you don't need an anti-static wristband


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> No. I will have windows 10 physically. I'll just use that key it's fine.
> What size usb do I need to buy which can be used to flash bios and put windows on it?
> Do I need antistatic wristband?


8 GB or larger.

No. You don't need an anti-static wristband.

You are getting yourself into something that's far, far, far easier than you think. It will be child's play, my friend. Try your damn hardest to relax because there's nothing to be nervous about.


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## TwoCables

kairi_zeroblade said:


> update what basically?? a USB drive formatted to FAT32 should do the trick..


He's talking about installing the latest version of the BIOS. Probably to support the CPU. I asked who told him he needs to do that with this CPU, but I didn't get an answer.


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## kairi_zeroblade

TwoCables said:


> He's talking about installing the latest version of the BIOS. Probably to support the CPU. I asked who told him he needs to do that with this CPU, but I didn't get an answer.



Ohh..if its Intel you don't need to..if its AMD were talking and you're gonna use an X570 based board..you surely need to..though at this point in time newer board batches should be ready for next gen..


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> He's talking about installing the latest version of the BIOS. Probably to support the CPU. I asked who told him he needs to do that with this CPU, but I didn't get an answer.


Sorry I didn't see. I heard it needs to be done with the MSI Tomahawk x570 motherboard. I read PC won't post if I have the 5800x installed


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## TwoCables

kairi_zeroblade said:


> update what basically?? a USB drive formatted to FAT32 should do the trick..
> 
> 
> 
> most effective are the 4gb down to 2gb ones..though some have luck on higher capacities..


No. You have to have an 8GB flash drive for the Media Creation Tool.


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Sorry I didn't see. I heard it needs to be done with the MSI Tomahawk x570 motherboard. I read PC won't post if I have the 5800x installed


Well again, check page 46: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C84v1.1.pdf It will be extremely easy to get it done. It's a good thing you went with this motherboard!


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## TwoCables

kairi_zeroblade said:


> Ohh..if its Intel you don't need to..if its AMD were talking and you're gonna use an X570 based board..you surely need to..though at this point in time newer board batches should be ready for next gen..


No, you need to with the 11th Gen Intel CPUs on Z490 motherboards.

Now sure, maybe with Z490 motherboards that are currently being manufactured for restocking what's currently out of stock, maybe they'll have the BIOS that's needed, but not the boards that are still in stock. Additionally, many Z490 motherboards that are being restocked are being restocked with existing stock the manufacturer already had. So those boards would still need to have the BIOS updated to support the 11th Gen Intel CPUs. Fortunately, many of them have the ability to do this without needing a 10th Gen CPU installed along with memory and a video card.


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Well again, check page 46: https://download.msi.com/archive/mnu_exe/mb/E7C84v1.1.pdf It will be extremely easy to get it done. It's a good thing you went with this motherboard!


This will be fine? SanDisk SDCZ50-008G-E95 8GB USB Flash Drive Card for sale online | eBay


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> This will be fine? SanDisk SDCZ50-008G-E95 8GB USB Flash Drive Card for sale online | eBay


Yes because it's an 8GB flash drive. It meets Microsoft's requirement for creating USB installation media for Windows 10 using Media Creation Tool.

You can use this to flash the BIOS first. Then when you're done with that, you can turn it into installation media for Windows 10. Do you have a working computer that has a USB port on it?


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Yes because it's an 8GB flash drive. It meets Microsoft's requirement for creating USB installation media for Windows 10 using Media Creation Tool.
> 
> You can use this to flash the BIOS first. Then when you're done with that, you can turn it into installation media for Windows 10. Do you have a working computer that has a USB port on it?


Yes I have a laptop which loads a webpage every few hours! Extremely slow but I can use it to help me.
My last concern is thermal paste. I believe it comes with the Noctua NH-D15S though, hopefully!


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Yes I have a laptop which loads a webpage every few hours! Extremely slow but I can use it to help me.
> My last concern is thermal paste. I believe it comes with the Noctua NH-D15S though, hopefully!


Oh heck yeah it does. That's a damn good choice of a cooler too. The thermal compound comes in a proper syringe applicator. Some CPU coolers on the market come with thermal compound in a frickin' packet! lol You'll be happy.

I'm getting the NH-D15S chromax.black when I get the money I will need to buy all my upgrade parts. I'm also getting the MSI MAG Z490 Tomahawk!


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## kairi_zeroblade

TwoCables said:


> No, you need to with the 11th Gen Intel CPUs on Z490 motherboards.
> 
> Now sure, maybe with Z490 motherboards that are currently being manufactured for restocking what's currently out of stock, maybe they'll have the BIOS that's needed, but not the boards that are still in stock. Additionally, many Z490 motherboards that are being restocked are being restocked with existing stock the manufacturer already had. So those boards would still need to have the BIOS updated to support the 11th Gen Intel CPUs. Fortunately, many of them have the ability to do this without needing a 10th Gen CPU installed along with memory and a video card.


I see..though pretty sure they also have BIOS Flashback feature where you can update/revert the bios build..


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## TwoCables

kairi_zeroblade said:


> I see..though pretty sure they also have BIOS Flashback feature where you can update/revert the bios build..


Indeed. As I said, fortunately, many of them have the ability to do this without needing a 10th Gen CPU installed along with memory and a video card. Many don't though, including some of the best mid-range boards like the MSI MAG Z490 Tomahawk. What I'm going to do is buy the i5-10600K and i5-11600K from Micro Center, and then return the i5-10600K when I'm done using it to flash the BIOS to support the 11600K. Or, I'll call first and see if they can update my BIOS for me in the store. Or of course since all of the normal-priced MSI MAG Z490 Tomahawks are out of stock ($199.99 USD), perhaps the one I end up with will already have the newest BIOS on it!

(yeah I admit I didn't know the faster way to say that, like "BIOS Flashback")


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Oh heck yeah it does. That's a damn good choice of a cooler too. The thermal compound comes in a proper syringe applicator. Some CPU coolers on the market come with thermal compound in a frickin' packet! lol You'll be happy.
> 
> I'm getting the NH-D15S chromax.black when I get the money I will need to buy all my upgrade parts. I'm also getting the MSI MAG Z490 Tomahawk!


It's so depressing I have this awesome new build coming and the only working gpu (assuming it still works after all this time) is a 750ti. Its going to be impossible to be able to game heavy with this and it's impossible to get a high end gpu without selling my house


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> It's so depressing I have this awesome new build coming and the only working gpu (assuming it still works after all this time) is a 750ti. Its going to be impossible to be able to game heavy with this and it's impossible to get a high end gpu without selling my house


Damn man. I wish I could give you a hug now.


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> It's so depressing I have this awesome new build coming and the only working gpu (assuming it still works after all this time) is a 750ti. Its going to be impossible to be able to game heavy with this and it's impossible to get a high end gpu without selling my house


Maybe someone here on OCN can sell you something that's better than the 750 Ti.


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## Robilar

Transient Gamer said:


> i have ordered a custom build last month, its in my sig below.. I usually build my own, but the store, a reputable chain of well known computer shops in Canada, was selling RTX3070s at almost MSRP IN-STORE. Only with the condition that it would be part of a full build, to avoid selling to cryptominers (one can argue you can resell the card indeed), getting their techs some work and also to sell more parts I guess. Built fees were $50CDN. I wanted my ASUS 3070 TUF OC and I got it! The cable management is ok. I got all the boxes. It is important for me to get all boxes, so i can RMA a component later down the road.
> Its somehow fishy that you aren't getting the boxes. Is it a shipping reason? What are they giving you for a reason?



Which chain? I'm on the hunt for a 3080 or 3070 here in Canada without any success. I'd shy away from a pre-built normally but as long as I get cpu, motherboard and video card that are what I want the other stuff isn't really all that important.

Edit: 

Ah Canada Computers has pre-built rigs with the 3070.

They are all AMD processors though  I suppose I could buy a rig and sell the motherboard and processor here and get the intel stuff I want. They don't have any 3080 based systems in stock though.


----------



## Shawnb99

Samzon said:


> Do I need antistatic wristband?


Touch something metal before working on anything. That will dissipate any and all static charge you've built up.


----------



## TwoCables

Shawnb99 said:


> Touch something metal before working on anything. That will dissipate any and all static charge you've built up.


Only if the metal object is grounded, like the screw on a wallplate for most electrical outlets or light switches. Or a metal floor lamp post if the lamp is plugged into a grounded outlet.

Another choice is to have rubber-soled shoes on, or work barefoot. Some people say they do their system builds in the nude (seriously), but I think that's taking it a bit too far. lol

However, we rarely build up enough static electricity to be a problem, unless it's bitter cold out and you don't have a humidifier. Even then, you'd have to have carpet and smooth-bottom slippers and you'd have to drag your feet with every movement. Or you'd have to be working on a cheap vinyl chair mat. Those can be a source of an _enormous_ amount of static electricity.

I just install the PSU first, and I keep my PSU plugged into a grounded outlet with its power switch in the Off position. That way, the case can be used to keep me grounded.


----------



## Shawnb99

TwoCables said:


> Only if the metal object is grounded, like the screw on a wallplate for most electrical outlets or light switches. Or a metal floor lamp post if the lamp is plugged into a grounded outlet.
> 
> Another choice is to have rubber-soled shoes on, or work barefoot. Some people say they do their system builds in the nude (seriously), but I think that's taking it a bit too far. lol
> 
> However, we rarely build up enough static electricity to be a problem, unless it's bitter cold out and you don't have a humidifier. Even then, you'd have to have carpet and smooth-bottom slippers and you'd have to drag your feet with every movement. Or you'd have to be working on a cheap vinyl chair mat. Those can be a source of an _enormous_ amount of static electricity.
> 
> I just install the PSU first, and I keep my PSU plugged into a grounded outlet with its power switch in the Off position. That way, the case can be used to keep me grounded.


I've fried a CPU/MB this way. Saw a big blue spark jump to my finger to the CPU, little smoke come out and just wouldn't post anymore. 

Got all hardwood floors since then. Since most objects in your house are grounded if not on carpet touching the side of my case works best


----------



## TwoCables

Shawnb99 said:


> I've fried a CPU/MB this way. Saw a big blue spark jump to my finger to the CPU, little smoke come out and just wouldn't post anymore.
> 
> Got all hardwood floors since then. Since most objects in your house are grounded if not on carpet touching the side of my case works best


What way? I said the power switch on the PSU is in the 'Off' position, so if that's what you are talking about, I'll bet it was in the 'On' position. As I said, this enables me to know I'm grounding myself by touching the metal of the chassis. When it's not plugged in, it's not grounded. The metal can't discharge your built-up static electricity if it's not grounded to a properly-grounded outlet. I've tried testing it using my cheap vinyl chair-mat, and even though I could build up enough static electricity to get a stinging shock against my lamp post, I couldn't get anything from the metal of my case with the PSU unplugged. Once plugged in with the switch in the Off position, I could do it.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Damn man. I wish I could give you a hug now.


I was just thinking. The 750ti I was going to use would it be safe to even attempt to use it? It's 6+ years old and I haven't even tested to see if it works.
Could it potentially mess anything up for me?


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I was just thinking. The 750ti I was going to use would it be safe to even attempt to use it? It's 6+ years old and I haven't even tested to see if it works.
> Could it potentially mess anything up for me?


It should be fine. How long has it been since you've used it? Even if it's been since 2014 when it was released, it should still be fine.


----------



## Shawnb99

TwoCables said:


> What way? I said the power switch on the PSU is in the 'Off' position, so if that's what you are talking about, I'll bet it was in the 'On' position.


I meant via static electricity. The PSU was off and unplugged if I remember correctly, been about 18 yrs or so. Case was plastic as well. Was a lot of stupidity that went together.


----------



## TwoCables

Shawnb99 said:


> I meant via static electricity. The PSU was off and unplugged if I remember correctly, been about 18 yrs or so. Case was plastic as well. Was a lot of stupidity that went together.


There's a charge held in the capacitors on the motherboard. So that's how it happened. So that's one thing I forgot to mention: turn off the PSU and press the power button on the computer case a couple of times to discharge the capacitors as much as possible. Or if it's not connected to the case's power button, then jump the pins. If you leave those capacitors charged, you're at risk of killing everything.

I had no idea 100% plastic computer cases existed. I thought the skeleton of every computer case is metal, either steel or aluminum.


----------



## Shawnb99

TwoCables said:


> There's a charge held in the capacitors on the motherboard. So that's how it happened.


Yeah that's likely what happened. I was a newb, was on carpet and I think also had it on my bed, didn't wait for charges to dissipate and so on. As I as said a lot of factors of stupid likely caused it.


----------



## TwoCables

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah that's likely what happened. I was a newb, was on carpet and I think also had it on my bed, didn't wait for charges to dissipate and so on. As I as said a lot of factors of stupid likely caused it.


Yeah, something somewhat similar happened to me with my EVGA 680i SLI. I started out caseless because it was my first build and I didn't want to wait for the case to be delivered. Everything was plugged in but not on yet (I was just about to turn it on for the first time). The PSU was on though because I was ready for the first startup. For some reason, I wanted to see how the I/O panel would look when it's installed. The caseless build was on the carpeted floor (high-traffic carpet, but still), but on top of the EVGA 680i SLI box. So, I got down on my hands and knees with the I/O shield in hand and it made contact with one of the I/O hubs, either one of the two ethernet hubs or a USB port hub. Anyway, that simple contact created a very visible and very audible blue spark. Fortunately, it only killed that single hub! WHEW. lol Lesson learned.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> It should be fine. How long has it been since you've used it? Even if it's been since 2014 when it was released, it should still be fine.


I don't think I used it in over 6 years. I really don't know what to do about my gpu situtation. I read everywhere it's best to buy a prebuilt pc with the high end gpus because they are available. so then it makes me think buying new parts for a new system was a bad idea.

At this rate i don't think i will ever get my hands on a new high end gpu. by the time i do it's time to update my cpu etc again


----------



## Shawnb99

TwoCables said:


> Yeah, something somewhat similar happened to me with my EVGA 680i SLI. I started out caseless because it was my first build and I didn't want to wait for the case to be delivered. Everything was plugged in but not on yet (I was just about to turn it on for the first time). The PSU was on though because I didn't know enough yet to turn it off. For some reason, I wanted to see how the I/O panel would look when it's installed. The caseless build was on the carpeted floor (high-traffic carpet, but still), but on top of the EVGA 680i SLI box. So, I got down on my hands and knees with the I/O shield in hand and it made contact with one of the I/O hubs, either one of the two ethernet hubs or a USB port hub. Anyway, that simple contact created a very visible and very audible blue spark. Fortunately, it only killed that single hub! WHEW. lol Lesson learned.


Yeah I really only learn when I make mistakes. Can expensive but also makes sure you never forget the lesson


----------



## TwoCables

Shawnb99 said:


> Yeah I really only learn when I make mistakes. Can expensive but also makes sure you never forget the lesson


lol yep!


----------



## Shawnb99

Samzon said:


> I don't think I used it in over 6 years. I really don't know what to do about my gpu situtation. I read everywhere it's best to buy a prebuilt pc with the high end gpus because they are available. so then it makes me think buying new parts for a new system was a bad idea.
> 
> At this rate i don't think i will ever get my hands on a new high end gpu. by the time i do it's time to update my cpu etc again


Yeah it'll be safe to try. I'm rocking an 7950 atm. Was in storage for at least 4-5 years


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I don't think I used it in over 6 years. I really don't know what to do about my gpu situtation. I read everywhere it's best to buy a prebuilt pc with the high end gpus because they are available. so then it makes me think buying new parts for a new system was a bad idea.
> 
> At this rate i don't think i will ever get my hands on a new high end gpu. by the time i do it's time to update my cpu etc again


Yeah I know. It seems to be at a point right now where the only way to easily get a good new GPU is by getting a pre-made system somewhere. 

Maybe someone here on OCN has a better GPU they could sell to you.

However, hardware doesn't go bad after sitting around for 6 years unless it was like, out in a garage or something bad like that. Even then, it might be fine. So while the 750 Ti will be quite limiting for you performance-wise, it'll be much better than nothing.


----------



## geriatricpollywog

TwoCables said:


> No, the harm is that what they are doing is strictly forbidden by the EULA. Those keys are at risk of being blacklisted by Microsoft at any moment, and millions have already been blacklisted.
> 
> Again, an MSDN account holder can *NOT *sell any of those Product Keys. They can't even GIVE them away. They are for the MSDN account holder to use _*only*_. On their own systems. For software development purposes. Only. It's a very strict part of the EULA. If they are caught, then they are banned from having an MSDN account.
> 
> We each also represent Overclock.net, and Overclock.net cannot and does not support or recommend using these Product Keys because any one of us can cause Overclock.net to be held responsible by Microsoft for recommending it.


That, and it’s just plain stealing. I’ll pay a little extra for a legit product or a product that is manufactured under comfortable working conditions.


----------



## UltraMega

I used to work at digital storm and if you were to buy a PC from there, I would say make sure you check the thermal paste when you get it. Most of those business hire foreigners who know nothing about computers and just train them to do the assembly. They don't know the correct way to apply thermal paste and probably use a cheap brands for it.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Yeah I know. It seems to be at a point right now where the only way to easily get a good new GPU is by getting a pre-made system somewhere.
> 
> Maybe someone here on OCN has a better GPU they could sell to you.
> 
> However, hardware doesn't go bad after sitting around for 6 years unless it was like, out in a garage or something bad like that. Even then, it might be fine. So while the 750 Ti will be quite limiting for you performance-wise, it'll be much better than nothing.


Another thing which came to mind I pre-watching videos on how to install Noctua NH-D15S and people are buying thermal paste separately, is the one which come with it bad? Should I buy a tube of thermal paste just to ensure stability?


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Another thing which came to mind I pre-watching videos on how to install Noctua NH-D15S and people are buying thermal paste separately, is the one which come with it bad? Should I buy a tube of thermal paste just to ensure stability?


lol No they are just extremely fussy about their thermal compound. Noctua's thermal compound is just as good as Arctic MX-4.

Also, it has nothing to do with stability. It's about hoping for a difference of temperature by _*maybe*_ 1-2 degrees when overclocking. lol It's a waste of money to buy some other thermal compound unless you're going to be doing such extreme overclocking for the NH-D15S that you'll need the best thermal compound money can buy. You don't strike me as someone who will be doing that kind of overclocking. You strike me as someone who will just do overclocking for better gaming performance and so Noctua's thermal paste (which is as good as MX-4) will be more than good enough for what you'll be doing. Yes, it can be argued that when overclocking, you want lower temperatures for stability, but seriously, this thermal compound is more than good enough for what you'll be doing.

Oh, and I'll be using Noctua's thermal compound when I complete my build, whenever the stimulus money gods let me do that. So yeah. If Noctua's thermal compound is plenty good enough for me, it should be overkill for you.  You have to remember, Noctua is in the game of providing the best of the best. That's why I say man, you've made a *very* good choice in getting the NH-D15S.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> lol No they are just extremely fussy about their thermal compound. Noctua's thermal compound is just as good as Arctic MX-4.
> 
> Also, it has nothing to do with stability. It's about hoping for a difference of temperature by _*maybe*_ 1-2 degrees when overclocking. lol It's a waste of money to buy some other thermal compound unless you're going to be doing such extreme overclocking for the NH-D15S that you'll need the best thermal compound money can buy. You don't strike me as someone who will be doing that kind of overclocking. You strike me as someone who will just do overclocking for better gaming performance and so Noctua's thermal paste (which is as good as MX-4) will be more than good enough for what you'll be doing.
> 
> Oh, and I'll be using Noctua's thermal compound when I complete my build, whenever the stimulus money gods let me do that. So yeah. If Noctua's thermal compound is plenty good enough for me, it should be overkill for you.  You have to remember, Noctua is in the game of providing the best of the best. That's why I say man, you've made a *very* good choice in getting the NH-D15S.


I just put a pea size right? Multiple videos showed me multiple things lol. One guy smeared it all over the cpu whereas one guy put a pea.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I just put a pea size right? Multiple videos showed me multiple things lol. One guy smeared it all over the cpu whereas one guy put a pea.


Everyone has their own way of doing it. lol Some people insist you have to spread it with a thin piece of plastic such as a credit card, others insist you should just put a blob the size of a pea on the center, others insist on leaving a specific pattern.... it's silly. Just put it on and forget about it. As long as a nice thin layer is created between the heatsink block and the CPU's IHS, it'll work optimally.

With my first build, I didn't ask anyone how to do it. I just put a small blob on, installed the heatsink (the good ol' Tuniq Tower 120!), and I had the expected cooling performance. I frequently reported my temps to everyone here on OCN and they said I had great temps. I didn't care how I applied my thermal compound either, so yeah, it's all silly.

Oh and if excess squeezes out the sides, just clean it up. That's what I did. People would say "omg then you have too much and your temps will be too high". That's not what happened to me. Again, all the veterans on here back in 2008 told me my temps were spot-on for my CPU and cooler. I had the E2180 at 2.9 GHz.

Once the block squishes your thermal compound application, it's spread the same way as it would be no matter how you put it on. That's a huge amount of pressure being applied between the block and the IHS, meaning that you really can't have too much since only so much can fit in that microscopic space with that extreme pressure. Some people even insist on putting on what appears to be nowhere near enough and that works too. The job that thermal compound has is, it helps to maximize the transfer of heat from the CPU's IHS to the heatsink's block so that the heat can transfer to the heatpipes and then finally to the fins where it's blown away by the fan.

Now sure, if you were doing extremely competitive overclocking, you probably wouldn't want to have such a relaxed approach since every last single MHz can mean the difference between winning or losing a competition.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Everyone has their own way of doing it. lol Some people insist you have to spread it with a thin piece of plastic such as a credit card, others insist you should just put a blob the size of a pea on the center, others insist on leaving a specific pattern.... it's silly. Just put it on and forget about it. As long as a nice thin layer is created between the heatsink block and the CPU's IHS, it'll work optimally.
> 
> With my first build, I didn't ask anyone how to do it. I just put a small blob on, installed the heatsink (the good ol' Tuniq Tower 120!), and I had the expected cooling performance. I frequently reported my temps to everyone here on OCN and they said I had great temps. I didn't care how I applied my thermal compound either, so yeah, it's all silly.
> 
> Oh and if excess squeezes out the sides, just clean it up. That's what I did. People would say "omg then you have too much and your temps will be too high". That's not what happened to me. Again, all the veterans on here back in 2008 told me my temps were spot-on for my CPU and cooler. I had the E2180 at 2.9 GHz.
> 
> Once the block squishes your thermal compound application, it's spread the same way as it would be no matter how you put it on. That's a huge amount of pressure being applied between the block and the IHS, meaning that you really can't have too much since only so much can fit in that microscopic space with that extreme pressure. Some people even insist on putting on what appears to be nowhere near enough and that works too. The job that thermal compound has is, it helps to maximize the transfer of heat from the CPU's IHS to the heatsink's block so that the heat can transfer to the heatpipes and then finally to the fins where it's blown away by the fan.
> 
> Now sure, if you were doing extremely competitive overclocking, you probably wouldn't want to have such a relaxed approach.


Thanks a lot for your help. I should be ready for when my parts arrive on the 6th. Still can't get my head around this gpu situation though lol. I would be happy to buy another 980ti but considering I think it was the cause for it to break my old pc i wanna stay away from it.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Thanks a lot for your help. I should be ready for when my parts arrive on the 6th. Still can't get my head around this gpu situation though lol. I would be happy to buy another 980ti but considering I think it was the cause for it to break my old pc i wanna stay away from it.


What PSU did you have then?


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> What PSU did you have then?



evga 850w supernova g2


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I ordered this one Corsair HX Series™ HX850 — 850 Watt 80 PLUS® Platinum Certified Fully Modular PSU - Novatech


No, which PSU did you have when you had the GTX 980 Ti?


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> No, which PSU did you have when you had the GTX 980 Ti?





TwoCables said:


> No, which PSU did you have when you had the GTX 980 Ti?


Edited my post. Yeah I'm still baffled to what caused everything to go bad. Never had abnormal temps and I regularly cleaned my pc every few months from crap.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Edited my post. Yeah I'm still baffled to what caused everything to go bad. Never had abnormal temps and I regularly cleaned my pc every few months from crap.


Ok good that PSU was an awesome PSU. It still is. So it definitely shouldn't have been what killed the GPU. Sorry I just had to be sure. So you know, if you still have that PSU, then you don't need to buy a new one. It's an extremely high-end PSU.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Ok good that PSU was an awesome PSU. It still is. So it definitely shouldn't have been what killed the GPU. Sorry I just had to be sure. So you know, if you still have that PSU, then you don't need to buy a new one. It's an extremely high-end PSU.


Oh I went out and orderd everything new. Anything from that PC gives me ptsd. Especially since I don't have the answer to what happened. If it was just the gpu which died sure, but the motherboard half working? It's weird. I'm even contemplating something about my wall socket so I have to find a way to test that too.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Oh I went out and orderd everything new. Anything from that PC gives me ptsd. Especially since I don't have the answer to what happened. If it was just the gpu which died sure, but the motherboard half working? It's weird. I'm even contemplating something about my wall socket so I have to find a way to test that too.


So you have a GTX 980 Ti that could be in perfect working order and maybe the motherboard was what made you think it's no longer working. The PSU is definitely fine. It's a Super Flower Leadex Gold.

Is there something noticeably problematic with the wall outlet?


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> So you have a GTX 980 Ti that could be in perfect working order and maybe the motherboard was what made you think it's no longer working. The PSU is definitely fine. It's a Super Flower Leadex Gold.
> 
> Is there something noticeably problematic with the wall outlet?


Oh no the gpu is completely dead. I unscrewed the plate and there is a clear burning sign. Here are pictures


http://imgur.com/a/i73ZN9J




http://imgur.com/a/0yWSH1I


Wall socket looks fine. Should I even be worried about trying to test it? Im even going to buy a new extension lead and perhaps something to prevent power surges. What can I buy to protect my pc from a power surge?
Ultra paranoid gonna spend money just to ensure and eliminate any of these possiblities.


----------



## Samzon

I did tests on the motherboard. For example when I boot my PC now the motherboardl lights all come on and I think my SSD is working too. However the left side of the mobo dosn't work. The fan isn't working, I unplugged the left fan to the right connector and the fan worked. It's like the mobo had a stroke and only the right side works or something which explains why the pc doesnt give signal to my monitor.
there is a small cut in the motherboard i noticed but i'm unsure if it was there before or after the gpu burned. it's not in touching distance of the gpu so idk,


----------



## TwoCables

Yeah wow I don't know. Whoa.

So for a good surge protector, look at what Tripp-Lite has to offer in their Isobar lineup. I recommend considering only the ones that offer the 3840 Joule protection. Those are their best ones, and they are among the very best on the market.

8 outlets, 12-foot power cable: Isobar Premium Surge Protector, 8-Outlet, 3840 Joules, Metal Case | Tripp Lite

With this thing protecting your system - as well as your high-end PSU protecting it, you'll have complete peace of mind.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Yeah wow I don't know. Whoa.
> 
> So for a good surge protector, look at what Tripp-Lite has to offer in their Isobar lineup. I recommend considering only the ones that offer the 3840 Joule protection. Those are their best ones, and they are among the very best on the market.
> 
> 8 outlets, 12-foot power cable: Isobar Premium Surge Protector, 8-Outlet, 3840 Joules, Metal | Tripp Lite
> 
> With this thing protecting your system - as well as your high-end PSU protecting it, you'll have complete peace of mind.



Doesnt seem to be available in my country 
I just can't stop thinking about a gpu when my new parts arrive. It's going to be painful running 750ti on a 144hz monitor. I'm so tempted to grab one of these https://www.overclockers.co.uk/giga...ddr6-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-1bj-gi.html
at least then its slightly better than the 980ti i had but ugh.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Doesnt seem to be available in my country
> I just can't stop thinking about a gpu when my new parts arrive. It's going to be painful running 750ti on a 144hz monitor. I'm so tempted to grab one of these https://www.overclockers.co.uk/giga...ddr6-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-1bj-gi.html
> at least then its slightly better than the 980ti i had but ugh.


Yeah and you'll be able to enjoy Raytracing.

Sorry. lol 

Edit: Not that it will save you a ton of money, but, you don't need an 850W PSU. You could get a high-end 650W PSU and still have more power than you need. There's nothing harmful though in getting an overkill PSU. It just means you'll be spending more money than you need to, kind of like getting a Lamborghini for nothing but short trips to the grocery store a few times per week. Well ok maybe it's not to that extreme, but still.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Yeah and you'll be able to enjoy Raytracing.
> 
> Sorry. lol
> 
> Edit: Not that it will save you a ton of money, but, you don't need an 850W PSU. You could get a high-end 650W PSU and still have more power than you need. There's nothing harmful though in getting an overkill PSU. It just means you'll be spending more money than you need to, kind of like getting a Lamborghini for nothing but short trips to the grocery store a few times per week. Well ok maybe it's not to that extreme, but still.


Kinda too late. I've spend days changing my mind about parts I couldn't stop switching out parts for different ones. I just went ahead and ordered this. It's been a nightmare, I ordered everything from the same place because the idea was for them to assemble it for me but then I found out they wouldn't give me the boxes etc hence this thread. So now I regret ordering at all because I could of get better ram elsewhere etc. I have anxiety and I want the best parts I just want to forget about it now. I just want a working PC at this point.



1 x MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI
[MSI-X570TW] - In stock
1 x CORSAIR HX850 FULL MOD PSU
[CSR-HX850F] - In stock
1 x NOCTUA NH-D15S DUAL RADIATOR QUI
[NOC-D15S] - In stock
1 x WINDOWS 10 HOME 64BIT EN
[MS-W1064O] - In stock
1 x PHANTEKS ECLIPSE P500A RGB
[PTK-P50RGB] - In stock
1 x WD SN750 1TB NVME M.2 SSD
[WD-7501TB] - In stock
1 x GSKILL TZN 32GB (2X16) DDR4 3600
[GSK-TN3236] - In stock


----------



## TwoCables

Oh, me too, me too. Absolutely. When I learned about the $1,400 stimulus money (oh please everyone, don't let this trigger you for the love of all that is good about OCN), I started planning my upgrade because it will be the only chance I'll have for the foreseeable future - like the next several years. The number of changes my plans have gone through is ridiculous. lol

I think I've settled on the parts list though. Your parts list is quite similar to mine. I'll be on the Intel side, but I'll have an i5-11600K, the MSI MAG Z490 Tomahawk (I'll buy a 10th Gen Intel chip and then return it in order to flash the BIOS though - yeah I'm crazy like that) , either 16 or 32 GB of some 3600MHz G.SKILL memory (maybe Ripjaws) or maybe even some Ballistix, and definitely a WD SN750 1TB SSD (it's PCI-E 4.0), but I was planning on the SN750 1TB. lol 

I already have Windows 10 Home, so that's another similarity. This is kinda cool.  I considered that case but I've decided I'll get the Fractal Design Define 7. Oh and yes, again, I'm getting the Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black!

So, while you're on the AMD side and I'm on the Intel side, we'll otherwise have very similar systems. I think that's kinda cool, partly because we're both quite similar in being unable to stop changing the build plans. lol I mean, we settled on pretty similar parts after all that indecisiveness.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Oh, me too, me too. Absolutely. When I learned about the $1,400 stimulus money (oh please everyone, don't let this trigger you for the love of all that is good about OCN), I started planning my upgrade because it will be the only chance I'll have for the foreseeable future - like the next several years. The number of changes my plans have gone through is ridiculous. lol
> 
> I think I've settled on the parts list though. Your parts list is quite similar to mine. I'll be on the Intel side, but I'll have an i5-11600K, the MSI MAG Z490 Tomahawk (I'll buy a 10th Gen Intel chip and then return it in order to flash the BIOS though - yeah I'm crazy like that) , either 16 or 32 GB of some 3600MHz G.SKILL memory (maybe Ripjaws) or maybe even some Ballistix, and definitely a WD SN750 1TB SSD (it's PCI-E 4.0), but I was planning on the SN750 1TB. lol
> 
> I already have Windows 10 Home, so that's another similarity. This is kinda cool.  I considered that case but I've decided I'll get the Fractal Design Define 7. Oh and yes, again, I'm getting the Noctua NH-D15S chromax.black!
> 
> So, while you're on the AMD side and I'm on the Intel side, we'll otherwise have very similar systems. I think that's kinda cool, partly because we're both quite similar in being unable to stop changing the build plans. lol


Just comes down to GPU. What if I build my PC and the 750ti doesn't work. There's no way to even have a working PC I don't think 5800x has integrated graphics to display a monitor right?
I should be happy I ordered my parts today but I just feel sad, it's so annoying. I have to work tomorrow it's gonna drive me crazy thinking about this.

Yeah I should of just cancelled my order with this company. Because I could of bought better ram elsewhere, like 3600 cl16 or something. but i dont think it will be much of a difference we'll see.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Just comes down to GPU. What if I build my PC and the 750ti doesn't work. There's no way to even have a working PC I don't think 5800x has integrated graphics to display a monitor right?
> I should be happy I ordered my parts today but I just feel sad, it's so annoying. I have to work tomorrow it's gonna drive me crazy thinking about this.


Nah it'll work. This will be all done faster than you expect and you might even wish it didn't go by so quickly because of how fun it is.


----------



## Electrosoft

Samzon said:


> I'm kind of scared. Apparently I have to update the bios without the CPU in. I bought a physical copy of windows 10 but how do I install that without a cd drive? I need to buy a USB stick, right? How big?
> 
> *Case* - Planteks Eclipse P500 Air ATX
> *CPU* - AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Eight-Core Processor/CPU, without Cooler
> *Motherboard* - MSI MAG X570 TOMAHAWK WIFI AMD X570 Chipset (Socket AM4) ATX Motherboard
> *PSU* - Corsair HX Series? HX850 ? 850 Watt 80 PLUS® Platinum Certified Fully Modular
> *RAM* - G.SKILL TRIDENT Z NEO 32GB CL17 (2x16GB) DDR4 3600MHz Dual Channel Memory (RAM) Kit
> *SSD* - Samsung 980 PRO 1TB NVME M.2 Solid State Drive/SSD
> *CPU Cooler* - Noctua NH-D15S Dual Radiator Quiet CPU Cooler


I'm running that MB and 5800x and just built it out less than a month ago and while the shipping BIOS was older (October 2020), it booted up the 5800x just fine. I then updated to the newest BIOS.

If you have access to another computer (home, work, etc...) download windows media creation tool and just make a bootable USB version. 8GB or bigger and make sure it is USB 3.0 or faster for sanity.

If your current computer is Windows 10 based and you have an active microsoft account, you can transfer the license to your new computer. I do this all the time as from various builds and having an active microsoft account I've amassed quite a collection of licenses.


----------



## TwoCables

He's right, Samzon. I learned about transferring the license a few hours ago.






Reactivating Windows after a hardware change - Microsoft Support


Learn how to prepare your Windows device for a hardware change and find help reactivating Windows after a hardware change is complete.




support.microsoft.com





I'm very much looking forward to doing this. My activation status says "Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account "!


----------



## clonxy

If anything, you can loan or purchase a laptop to use in the mean time.

I'm very curious about something. Why did you purchase parts individually then send it to Novatech to have it assembled for you? Why not just buy a prebuilt? This way, you'd have your warranty from the company that put together your pc and you'd save a ton from assembly fees from Novatech and shipping. Prebuilt makes even more sense due to the gpu pricing too.

As for exercising the warranty, I rarely done it for any of my PC parts. For the 10+ years on my self-built PC, I've only had to send back the motherboard once. I've also had to send back a 120mm fan and a gpu back because of a non-modular PSU and having a ton of wires. It was a GTX 670. The wires made my case really crowded, difficult to work with, and while closing my case, I slit a wire without knowing it and it shorted my GPU. A 120mm case fan was nearby and it went away with it. So having a manufacture defect is really rare. I'm more likely to break something myself by accident over having a manufacture defect. 

For me, the cost of replacing something is still worth it over buying a prebuilt since I can customize it to my liking and save a few bucks. Anything I break along the way is an excuse for an upgrade. Ofcourse, this won't be what I'd be thinking while I'm repairing my only PC. I'd be beating myself over not having a PC to use and thinking about trusting someone else other than myself to repair the PC. Eventually, I got over this hurdle and you will too.


----------



## Samzon

Electrosoft said:


> I'm running that MB and 5800x and just built it out less than a month ago and while the shipping BIOS was older (October 2020), it booted up the 5800x just fine. I then updated to the newest BIOS.
> 
> If you have access to another computer (home, work, etc...) download windows media creation tool and just make a bootable USB version. 8GB or bigger and make sure it is USB 3.0 or faster for sanity.
> 
> If your current computer is Windows 10 based and you have an active microsoft account, you can transfer the license to your new computer. I do this all the time as from various builds and having an active microsoft account I've amassed quite a collection of licenses.


I'm going to do the flash with psu plugged in. Can it mess up if it wasn't needed?
It's impossible to tell without S/N right? Is there a way to instantly check when it arrives tuesday?


----------



## Samzon

clonxy said:


> If anything, you can loan or purchase a laptop to use in the mean time.
> 
> I'm very curious about something. Why did you purchase parts individually then send it to Novatech to have it assembled for you? Why not just buy a prebuilt? This way, you'd have your warranty from the company that put together your pc and you'd save a ton from assembly fees from Novatech and shipping. Prebuilt makes even more sense due to the gpu pricing too.
> 
> As for exercising the warranty, I rarely done it for any of my PC parts. For the 10+ years on my self-built PC, I've only had to send back the motherboard once. I've also had to send back a 120mm fan and a gpu back because of a non-modular PSU and having a ton of wires. It was a GTX 670. The wires made my case really crowded, difficult to work with, and while closing my case, I slit a wire without knowing it and it shorted my GPU. A 120mm case fan was nearby and it went away with it. So having a manufacture defect is really rare. I'm more likely to break something myself by accident over having a manufacture defect.
> 
> For me, the cost of replacing something is still worth it over buying a prebuilt since I can customize it to my liking and save a few bucks. Anything I break along the way is an excuse for an upgrade. Ofcourse, this won't be what I'd be thinking while I'm repairing my only PC. I'd be beating myself over not having a PC to use and thinking about trusting someone else other than myself to repair the PC. Eventually, I got over this hurdle and you will too.


Its difficult. I kinda wish I got a prebuiltbfor the gpu now. I have high end parts with no gpu
It's so depressing for me. Im tempted to grab a 2060 which is 450bpound. At least then I'll be somewhat satisfied because it's slightly better than the 980ti which died


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> He's right, Samzon. I learned about transferring the license a few hours ago.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Reactivating Windows after a hardware change - Microsoft Support
> 
> 
> Learn how to prepare your Windows device for a hardware change and find help reactivating Windows after a hardware change is complete.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> support.microsoft.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm very much looking forward to doing this. My activation status says "Windows is activated with a digital license linked to your Microsoft account "!


I have a whole new licence coming now.
I'll start fresh


----------



## Electrosoft

Samzon said:


> I'm going to do the flash with psu plugged in. Can it mess up if it wasn't needed?
> It's impossible to tell without S/N right? Is there a way to instantly check when it arrives tuesday?


There is no indication on the box in regards to BIOS revision.
I can almost guarantee your 5800x will boot considering my new MB had the November 2020 7C84v14 BIOS on it which added 5000 support (I went back to check the backup before I upgraded).
Your best bet really is to just assemble the system and start it up and give it 4-5 minutes to see if it picks up on the CPU. If not, just flash it.

If you end up needing to flash it for support:


----------



## Samzon

Electrosoft said:


> There is no indication on the box in regards to BIOS revision.
> I can almost guarantee your 5800x will boot considering my new MB had the November 2020 7C84v14 BIOS on it which added 5000 support (I went back to check the backup before I upgraded).
> Your best bet really is to just assemble the system and start it up and give it 4-5 minutes to see if it picks up on the CPU. If not, just flash it.
> 
> If you end up needing to flash it for support:
> 
> View attachment 2484936


I've heard multiple different stories. What I don't want to do is install the cpu and cooler just to find out my pc won't boot. I cant flash the bios with the cpu installed afaik.


----------



## DuRoc

I went through the bios flashback on my 5600x/b550 some time ago. I was nervous about it at first but the procedure was super easy and got me up and running without issue.


----------



## Electrosoft

Samzon said:


> I've heard multiple different stories. What I don't want to do is install the cpu and cooler just to find out my pc won't boot. I cant flash the bios with the cpu installed afaik.


I've never encountered a system that wouldn't flashback with a CPU installed. I had to flash a 5600x Gigabyte B550 for support and it worked fine with the CPU and memory installed. If you want to be absolutely sure for peace of mind, just flash it without the memory and CPU installed and hooked up to your PSU, but unless the MB has been sitting on their shelf since last year, it will most likely already have the November BIOS installed.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I've heard multiple different stories. What I don't want to do is install the cpu and cooler just to find out my pc won't boot. I cant flash the bios with the cpu installed afaik.


Again, page 46 of the motherboard's manual tells you how to do it without a CPU installed.


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## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Again, page 46 of the motherboard's manual tells you how to do it without a CPU installed.


Out of curiosity I woke up for work and went inside my pc case. I had the urge to try flatten the visible broken part on my mobo in hope something magical would happen.
After flattening the 2 copper parts I turned system on and then the left fan started to work along with the digital temp thing which displays numbers. However still no signal to my monitor.

This was false hope right? Theres no way it will be fixed from 1 visible broken part.


Hope this made sense typed from a phone. I flatten this out then the left fan on mobo and digital temp thing started to show life


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## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Out of curiosity I woke up for work and went inside my pc case. I had the urge to try flatten the visible broken part on my mobo in hope something magical would happen.
> After flattening the 2 copper parts I turned system on and then the left fan started to work along with the digital temp thing which displays numbers. However still no signal to my monitor.
> 
> This was false hope right? Theres no way it will be fixed from 1 visible broken part.
> 
> 
> Hope this made sense typed from a phone. I flatten this out then the left fan on mobo and digital temp thing started to show life
> View attachment 2485043


I don't know. I've never had any severe problems like this. I also don't know what I'm looking at there. I know it's the back of the motherboard, but I don't know enough to know what does what and how things work, etc.

So in other words, this is something Buildzoid on YouTube would know, but damn... I may as well be looking at a part from a space rocket. Sure, I know the obvious parts of a motherboard like everyone else does, but when it comes to these little bits, I'm clueless. Maybe you fixed it? Maybe you didn't. I wouldn't know.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> I don't know. I've never had any severe problems like this. I also don't know what I'm looking at there. I know it's the back of the motherboard, but I don't know enough to know what does what and how things work, etc.
> 
> So in other words, this is something Buildzoid on YouTube would know, but damn... I may as well be looking at a part from a space rocket. Sure, I know the obvious parts of a motherboard like everyone else does, but when it comes to these little bits, I'm clueless. Maybe you fixed it? Maybe you didn't. I wouldn't know.


Yeah should of put some context. Its above gpu slot
Anyway not gonna look much into it. Jew parts come soon!








20210326-205626


Image 20210326-205626 hosted in ImgBB




ibb.co


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Yeah should of put some context. Its above gpu slot
> Anyway not gonna look much into it. Jew parts come soon!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 20210326-205626
> 
> 
> Image 20210326-205626 hosted in ImgBB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ibb.co


What did you just say? Jew parts? I don't get it. Is this some new slang the kids are saying today?


----------



## TwoCables

Does your GTX 750 Ti work in the 2nd slot? Maybe that damage is for the 1st slot which may be why it doesn't work.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> What did you just say? Jew parts? I don't get it. Is this some new slang the kids are saying today?


Omg. Hahaha. Being at work and typing from my phone can be dangerous

New*


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Does your GTX 750 Ti work in the 2nd slot? Maybe that damage is for the 1st slot which may be why it doesn't work.


It doesnt unfortunately


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Omg. Hahaha. Being at work and typing from my phone can be dangerous
> 
> New*


lol!

It will be difficult to let you live this one down. hehehehe When I can get my new parts ordered for my massive upgrade, oh I'll have a few seconds of fun.  "Hey Samzon! Guess what!"


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> It doesnt unfortunately


Oh.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> lol!
> 
> It will be difficult to let you live this one down. hehehehe When I can get my new parts ordered for my massive upgrade, oh I'll have a few seconds of fun.  "Hey Samzon! Guess what!"


Jew parts!


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Jew parts!


hehe 

We should probably cut it out before we get in some trouble though. I get a little nervous letting loose on here. Gotta be in Professional Mode as much as possible. I can't wait to get my jew parts for my computer though.


----------



## Samzon

Omg I want to cry. After last night when I was messing with the copper which was showing and somehow got the 2nd case fan to work. I come home from work and flattened the copper down some more and guess what, my entire system booted on. I'm posting this on my computer. I don't know if I should laugh or cry, I ordered an entire new pc which comes Tuesday and now my old one is working again.

I really don't know what to do anymore. I spend an entire week with no pc and now I'm using it like nothing happened. What did I do to deserve this stuff. what do i do now?









Gyazo







gyazo.com


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Omg I want to cry. After last night when I was messing with the copper which was showing and somehow got the 2nd case fan to work. I come home from work and flattened the copper down some more and guess what, my entire system booted on. I'm posting this on my computer. I don't know if I should laugh or cry, I ordered an entire new pc which comes Tuesday and now my old one is working again.
> 
> I really don't know what to do anymore. I spend an entire week with no pc and now I'm using it like nothing happened. What did I do to deserve this stuff. what do i do now?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Gyazo
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> gyazo.com


I recommend keeping everything that you ordered for the entire duration of the return window. Don't use any of it. Instead, use the revived computer the entire time to see if it is stable. If it's stable, you can probably return everything to get your money back and then use that money on a very nice video card.

I know the feeling you're going through.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> I recommend keeping everything that you ordered for the entire duration of the return window. Don't use any of it. Instead, use the revived computer the entire time to see if it is stable.


I mean at this point I will keep the new pc, all of it. This is very old now and I've been through too much pain this week. I really don't know what to do anymore. do i attempt to put the 750ti inside this pc? i feel like it's a bad idea. i just want to check to see if it works.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> I mean at this point I will keep the new pc, all of it. This is very old now and I've been through too much pain this week. I really don't know what to do anymore. do i attempt to put the 750ti inside this pc? i feel like it's a bad idea. i just want to check to see if it works.


I don't have experience with this kind of a problem so I don't have an answer I can give. I know how you feel though. I don't know if I could feel comfortable using any parts from that computer either. I just wouldn't be able to relax.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> I don't have experience with this kind of a problem so I don't have an answer I can give. I know how you feel though. I don't know if I could feel comfortable using any parts from that computer either. I just wouldn't be able to relax.


i'm just gonna wait for my new parts and enjoy the new computer despite not having a gpu to fully benchmark it 
only motivation i have is how old this pc is and how good my new parts will be hopefully.


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> i'm just gonna wait for my new parts and enjoy the new computer despite not having a gpu to fully benchmark it
> only motivation i have is how old this pc is and how good my new parts will be hopefully.


I just realized I don't know what you have now. Just for some fun, what do you have now? I have the list of the parts you're getting, but not what you're upgrading from!


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> I just realized I don't know what you have now. Just for some fun, what do you have now? I have the list of the parts you're getting, but not what you're upgrading from!


Minus my glorious 980ti


----------



## TwoCables

Oh that's not so bad. I have a 2500K.


----------



## T.Sharp

Samzon said:


> Oh no the gpu is completely dead. I unscrewed the plate and there is a clear burning sign. Here are pictures
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/i73ZN9J
> 
> 
> 
> 
> http://imgur.com/a/0yWSH1I


There's an insulating plastic layer on the backplate, is there any way it could have gotten punctured from handling or worn through from vibration? Based on the burn marks, it looks like the 12V rail was shorted to ground.


----------



## Samzon

T.Sharp said:


> There's an insulating plastic layer on the backplate, is there any way it could have gotten punctured from handling or worn through from vibration? Based on the burn marks, it looks like the 12V rail was shorted to ground.


no idea man. is the 980ti fixable? i haven't handled or touched the gpu at all besides cleaning it with compressed air every few months. was the gpu the cause for my motherboard to die and come back to life?


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> Oh that's not so bad. I have a 2500K.


noooo don't say that. you are suppose to say it's old and the new parts i have ordered with be so much better even without a gpu


----------



## T.Sharp

Samzon said:


> no idea man. is the 980ti fixable? i haven't handled or touched the gpu at all besides cleaning it with compressed air every few months. was the gpu the cause for my motherboard to die and come back to life?


It's probably fixable, the question is how much work would it take. Usually that kind of damage doesn't happen without taking other components with it. It might not be worth the price to repair, idk. 

It's possible that the GPU caused the blown trace on the mobo. If you have a multimeter you can see if the trace connects to 12V rail of the PSU or GND.

If you're going to keep using the board, you should solder the trace back together.


----------



## Samzon

T.Sharp said:


> It's probably fixable, the question is how much work would it take. Usually that kind of damage doesn't happen without taking other components with it. It might not be worth the price to repair, idk.
> 
> It's possible that the GPU caused the blown trace on the mobo. If you have a multimeter you can see if the trace connects to 12V rail of the PSU or GND.
> 
> If you're going to keep using the board, you should solder the trace back together.


i have a new pc coming tuesday, i spent all week looking for parts thinking this pc was dead 100%.
i'm just so sad i will never be able to buy a high end gpu to finish off my new pc when it arrives.

what are the chances my 750ti will work despite it being sat on my shelf for over 6 years? i didn't keep it inside a box


----------



## T.Sharp

Samzon said:


> what are the chances my 750ti will work despite it being sat on my shelf for over 6 years? i didn't keep it inside a box


If it worked before you shelved it, It should work now. Clean it off if it's dusty. 🤷‍♂️


----------



## Samzon

T.Sharp said:


> If it worked before you shelved it, It should work now. Clean it off if it's dusty. 🤷‍♂️


thanks!


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> noooo don't say that. you are suppose to say it's old and the new parts i have ordered with be so much better even without a gpu


No no no no I'm saying that at least you don't have something as old as mine that you have to put up with while you wait.


----------



## Samzon

Just encountered more bad news. Was looking at graphics cards I can buy now to help me wait out this stock issue but it turns out the RTX cards don't even have DVI.
My monitor is BenQ XL2411 24" and I'm using the white DVI cable.


I know there are HDMI > DVI adaptors but isn't this bad? It won't give me 144 refresh rate and won't it give me input lag?


----------



## TwoCables

I have no idea.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> I have no idea.


Managed to get everything working but for some reason the rgb on my case fans are not working.
I searched the manual and even youtube but i have no idea how to get it running properly, it's something to do with these cables? how do i get it working


----------



## TwoCables

I don't know RGB lighting stuff.


----------



## Samzon

TwoCables said:


> I don't know RGB lighting stuff.


Ok so the next thing to finalize the build is to enable XMP in BIOS right?


----------



## TwoCables

Samzon said:


> Ok so the next thing to finalize the build is to enable XMP in BIOS right?


I don't know. With my aging motherboard, I just set the memory speed to XMP settings manually. I just went into Windows, checked what CPU-Z showed for the XMP values, and then I chose Restart, went back into the BIOS and then I set those manually in the BIOS. I think that enabled me to overclock the CPU. I don't remember. I just remember it was better to do it manually, so I did. Same values, but everything is manual, so I'm free to change anything I want.


----------



## shilka

Samzon said:


> Managed to get everything working but for some reason the rgb on my case fans are not working.
> I searched the manual and even youtube but i have no idea how to get it running properly, it's something to do with these cables? how do i get it working
> 
> 
> View attachment 2485500
> 
> View attachment 2485499


You plug those cables into the 3 pin headers(s) on the motherboard


----------



## LittleMeezers

The Verge has a pretty good PC building tutorial vid online, I'm sure you'll be fine if you just follow that.


----------



## shilka

Stop trolling that video is infamous for the worst video ever made its garbage and made the Verge a laughing stock





its a good guide of everthing you should NOT be doing


----------



## brkbeatjunkie

TwoCables said:


> When I joined OCN in 2008


one of the OG’s up in her’


----------



## TwoCables

brkbeatjunkie said:


> one of the OG’s up in her’


Hey!


----------



## Dan848

Samzon said:


> Kind of worried, was this a bad decision? Basically I picked all the parts I wanted for a new system. I'm paying a reputable company named Novatech to assemble it for me due to me working stupid hours and purely because I didn't want to deal with the stress of putting it together myself.
> However I just found out today after ordering it when the PC is built and has windows installed I will not be getting the boxes for each component. I spoke to them directly and they assured me nothing will go wrong and if it does just speak with them.
> I think I'm just overreacting but not having the boxes of the parks I individually picked out just feels weird to me.


Almost NO company that builds computers includes the boxes, in fact I have never seen it happen. Standard procedure.


----------



## kairi_zeroblade

Samzon said:


> Ok so the next thing to finalize the build is to enable XMP in BIOS right?


XMP/DOCP may work out of the box spot on with the specs and voltages but some need a tad more voltage to be stable..your luck depends on it..


----------



## c0rrupt

Samzon said:


> did i really need physical copy of windows? I mean its just the key i need right?


Download the latest Windows 10 Iso then use Rufus to make an UEFI install disc - If your going to purchase a Windows 10 key make sure you get "Windows 10 Pro Retail Key". Retail key will allow you you to swap out hardware w/o any problems. OEM keys you might run into issues just. swaping out ram/gpu


----------

